# [Official] Mayhems users club



## nyk20z3

Good thread as i am looking to purchase some UV Green dye soon.


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## BioHzrd

My rig running Mayhems Pastel

Raspberry Purple & White


DSC_0119 by B1oHzrd, on Flickr


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## ahweng38

wow. very resourceful!


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## ahweng38

very informative


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## Oddball

Love the look of the pastel coolant seem to work well as well


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## Oddball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oddball*


Mayhems Pastel white


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## Blizlake

Great idea for a thread! You could add whether the product has biocide in it or not (in the details).


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## gliggo

Mayhems Pastel Blue


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## Shiikamaru

Got a question. I have a Mayhem X1 blue uv dye coming in. Gonna mix it with distilled water. Do I still need a biocide?


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## Rognin

I use Mayhems DTX (here's to hoping they get some more soon!!) glycol. Primarily for the chiller to go below 10c without the water starting to slush up.


Spoiler: Synthetic Anatomy


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## Mayhem

X1 is a premixed coolant. If it is premixed as in 1 Ltr then it needs nothing as it contains every thing you need in the liquid. If it is the 250ml Concentrate version then you only need di water or distilled water. the 250ml concentrate bottle will make 2 ltrs of coolant.

All Mayhems coolants and premixed liquids contain biocide and inhibitors and require nothing extra such as a kill coil. Never mix them with any other biocide such as PT nuke or biocide extreme.


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## gliggo

After reading the information you posted, I noticed that you said the UV Pink X1 dye strains like crazy. I've just completed my built and used the UV Red X1 250ml Concentrate with distilled water (2L) - is the staining bad with this one ?

I've previously used Primochill UV Blue Dye Bomb and that stained so bad, not even vinegar and warm water could do the trick. I was scarred from using dyes for a while but thought I'd give Mayhems ago, I hope I won't be having the problem. I've used the Pastel White in my girlfriend's rig and that cleaned like a charm.


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## Ficu

Pastel Blue Berry


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## Mayhem

@Rognin were bringing out a better version of that mate. what you had was a one off weve improved it and will be selling it soon.


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## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Rognin were bringing out a better version of that mate. what you had was a one off weve improved it and will be selling it soon.


Nice, cold season is fast approaching!


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## skyn3t

w00t nice thread gonna stick in here i will post my loop soon soon....


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## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm running Pastel Grape Red right now and am a little dissatisfied with the color (not red enough). Can I mix in some red dye to make it brighter or do I need to go with Pastel Light Red instead? Also, I'm using Duralene tubing. Will that be an issue? Thanks Mayhems!


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## Bitemarks and bloodstains

One drop of Mayhems Deep blue


Two drops


A few more drops and mixed up




Stealthres filled


Close up of the HF


Close up of the chipset block




Close up of the GPU block


Both Stealthres' filled


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## loki_reborn

Here is mine. Running a mix of 1 bottle Pastel Blue Berry and 1/2 bottle of Aurora Gemini.




























Beautiful fluids. Can't wait to play with the Chameleon fluids on the next tear down.


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## BioHzrd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I'm running Pastel Grape Red right now and am a little dissatisfied with the color (not red enough). Can I mix in some red dye to make it brighter or do I need to go with Pastel Light Red instead? Also, I'm using Duralene tubing. Will that be an issue? Thanks Mayhems!


To Quote Mayhems from the first page, All mayhems can be mixed with there dye's
Quote:


> Mayhems Dyes
> 
> Warning Mayhems dyes are extremely strong and they stain "that is fact". The only dye we do that does not stain is UV Clear Blue.
> 
> Mayhems Dye can be used in all our coolants to make them any colour you wish. If Primochill call there products dye bomb then Mayhems Dye is a Nuclear bomb.
> 
> Mayhems Dye is mainly used with Distilled & DI water as a additive for looks only. Be warned Mayhems dyes are ultra strong and only a tiny amount is needed in any system. They do not contain biocide or inhibitors so you will need to use these with this product. A good biocide is Mayhems biocide extreme or Kill coil. There are other alternatives as well.
> 
> *All Mayhems dyes can be mixed with each other to create any colour you wish.*
> 
> E.G.
> Mayhems UV Clear Blue + Mayhems Blue = UV Reactive Blue
> Mayhems UV Pink + Mayhems Red = UV Reactive Red
> Mayhems Purple + Mayhems Yellow + Mayhems UV Clear Blue = UV Reactive Black
> Mayhems Red + Mayhems UV Pink + Mayhems Blue = UV Blood Red
> Mayhems Blue + Mayhems UV Yellow Green = Bright UV Reactive Green
> Mayhems Green + Mayhems Blue = Ocean Blue
> 
> *These dyes can all so be mixed with every other water based coolant in the market place and will not clog a water cooling system.*


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## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, I read that it is OK to mix the dyes. My main question is will adding red dye to the Pastel Grape Red result in a brighter red color?


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## Mayhem

@Majin SSJ Eric please contact me and see if we can put a smile on your face. Please email me you address (my email is michael at mayhems dot co dot uk) with the receipt of what you bought and ill sort you out some thing







, we don't like disappointed consumers we like happy ones







...

@Bitemarks and bloodstains hehe thats some serious blue there, you even have the same jug i do







.


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## Majin SSJ Eric

Thanks Mayhem! I'll shoot you an email when I get off work!


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## Chewy

Do you sell yellow dye?? I cant find it anywhere, I have been using tharsis red for around three months with no issues and really want a yellow version and currently only have the pastel yellow option


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## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chewy*
> 
> Do you sell yellow dye?? I cant find it anywhere, I have been using tharsis red for around three months with no issues and really want a yellow version and currently only have the pastel yellow option


They sell yellow pastel on the Mayhems website.


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## Mayhem

We do now sell yellow dye and orange dye. So you can now make Yellow Aurora if you wish. We wont be doing a Yellow Aurora our self as there is not enough call for it. Sorry.


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## Azma

Pastal Ice White


















Still got some sleeving to do tough


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## GoodInk

Made my own Blood Red. Its still not complete, as I've hit some set backs and have had no time to work on it.


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## mybadomen

*Mayhem's User !*

*Ice White Pastel Concentrate
Light Red Pastel Concentrate
Red Dye*









*MybadOmen*


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## Majin SSJ Eric

Dang! I definitely should have gone with pastel light red!


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## theseekeroffun

Black, Red or Ice Dragon White, you cannot go wrong!







Mayhem and ID are the Wizards!

The Black looks like old oil, the red is really RED and the White looks like Milk.......


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## ahweng38

how abt when u show.ur mayhems product also tell us what tubing is use and the period used?


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## skyn3t

How about some Nice vivid color of Mayhems Products [ Epic's Review] Mayhem Dye and Coolant Colors Show off & Lots of Pics quick sneak pick











Hey Mick I'm in love with all those Dye i just put the Ice Pastel White in my main rig today and it looks fantastic.
thanks for your support


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## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahweng38*
> 
> how abt when u show.ur mayhems product also tell us what tubing is use and the period used?


It is Primochill LRT


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## Chewy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahweng38*
> 
> how abt when u show.ur mayhems product also tell us what tubing is use and the period used?


I have been using tharsis red aurora for over three months with no sign of pearl fading or tube staining, xspc tubing


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## Majin SSJ Eric

Mayhems is simply the best. Period. I wouldn't recommend ANY other dyes/premixes personally. If you don't run Mayhems then just stick with distilled...


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## squick3n

I've got the purple pastel running. There's so many conflicting reports on whether dyes mess up blocks that I decided to run my own test. It certainly looks great. Mix of Durelene and Masterkleer tubing


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## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squick3n*
> 
> I've got the purple pastel running. There's so many conflicting reports on whether dyes mess up blocks that I decided to run my own test. It certainly looks great. Mix of Durelene and Masterkleer tubing


You right dyes mess up blocks. "DYES Crappie Brand" . Not Mayhems Products you know what i mean







read my review here [ Review ] Mayhems Dye and Coolant when it comes to Water Cooling products.


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## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Mayhems is simply the best. Period. I wouldn't recommend ANY other dyes/premixes personally. If you don't run Mayhems then just stick with distilled...


+1 and well said.


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## Nornam

Been using Mayhems Dyes for three years now & not found anything better...Very powerfull colours, Mix very well, not just together but also with other Mayhem fluids like Aurora & Pastel for fantastic results. I mix my own Aurora Supernova with Mayhem Yellow dye & the effect is Great







...

Just my two-penneth worth







..

N.


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## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Been using Mayhems Dyes for three years now & not found anything better...Very powerfull colours, Mix very well, not just together but also with other Mayhem fluids like Aurora & Pastel for fantastic results. I mix my own Aurora Supernova with Mayhem Yellow dye & the effect is Great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Just my two-penneth worth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> N.


I agree with you, but do you have any pics?


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## skyn3t

Here is my Black Haw with Pastel Ice White







I had remove all my PCI-E cable to take some neat pics because I need to re-sleeve it.


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## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Here is my Black Haw with Pastel Ice White
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had remove all my PCI-E cable to take some neat pics because I need to re-sleeve it.


Pimpin


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## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> I agree with you, but do you have any pics?


Yup sure do







.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7CZO9V8ivc or http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=222ZmMATf6I &










Can dig out more if you need







..

All the best

N.


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## nyk20z3

Just purchased some -

Mayhems Aurora Extinction Green Concentrate - 250ml

I cant wait to see this stuff in action.

So i just mix this with distilled water and do i still need a killcoil ?


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## ginger_nuts

After seeing these examples, I am going to stop looking for blue tubing.

Gonna get my self some of that x1 UV blue concentrate









Looks awesome


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## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Just purchased some -
> 
> Mayhems Aurora Extinction Green Concentrate - 250ml
> 
> I cant wait to see this stuff in action.
> 
> So i just mix this with distilled water and do i still need a killcoil ?


Keep in mind that the Aurora isn't intended for 24/7 use. Some setups it will work great in and others, not so much.


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## saleen146

Hello:

I just completed my first water cooling build. I have a couple questions about Mayhems pastel coolant:

I currently have pastel red/purple...I wish it was more red ... comes close to looking like pink; if I and red dye will that help?
,
How hard is it to flush it out of my system ... I have tygon tubing and I just found out they are incompatable so I think I wounld like to go with x1 blood red.

Also something I noticed is that my reservior has a flow indicator, it no longer spins since I added the pastel coollant and it also foams in my system, is that normal?

Thanks for you help.


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## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saleen146*
> 
> Hello:
> 
> I just completed my first water cooling build. I have a couple questions about Mayhems pastel coolant:
> 
> I currently have pastel red/purple...I wish it was more red ... comes close to looking like pink; if I and red dye will that help?
> ,
> How hard is it to flush it out of my system ... I have tygon tubing and I just found out they are incompatable so I think I wounld like to go with x1 blood red.
> 
> Also something I noticed is that my reservior has a flow indicator, it no longer spins since I added the pastel coollant and it also foams in my system, is that normal?
> 
> Thanks for you help.


Yes you can use Mayhem's Red Dye to make it darker.

For tubing just buy some Clearflex. Cheap and works great with Mayhem's.

Probably because the coolant is thicker but I'm not sure. I might just be stuck.


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## Willhemmens

I have Green Aurora and a Mayhems 360!


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## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Just purchased some -
> Mayhems Aurora Extinction Green Concentrate - 250ml
> I cant wait to see this stuff in action.
> So i just mix this with distilled water and do i still need a killcoil ?


you don't need killcoil all Pastel has biocides and inhibitors included within the mixture. you good to go









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> I have Green Aurora and a Mayhems 360!


nice color


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## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Keep in mind that the Aurora isn't intended for 24/7 use. Some setups it will work great in and others, not so much.


So its really just for show then ?

I am using a strong pump and a XSPC dual bay res so i didn't thing flow would have been an issue.

I may order some regular stuff from him tonight then just to have something else as backup.


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## Mayhem

Dont know about you problems how ever it should not stop the spin res working. The fluid is just a little more viscus than water but not by much and no its should not foam so the question would have to be did you flush your system before adding the coolant.

Aurora is not ment for long term use please read my first post ...


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## saleen146

Yes, I did flush the entire system prior to using the pastel coolant....

I quess it is just thick enough, worked with Utra Pure H20 which is what I used to flush my system.

Since I have tygon tubing, so I think I should switch coolant from "PASTEL" to the X1...will it be hard to clean the pastel from my system and if I dont get it perfect is there any problems when I put the X1 in?

Thanks,

Ray


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## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saleen146*
> 
> Yes, I did flush the entire system prior to using the pastel coolant....
> I quess it is just thick enough, worked with Utra Pure H20 which is what I used to flush my system.
> Since I have tygon tubing, so I think I should switch coolant to the X1...will it be hard to clean the pastel from my system and if I dont get it perfect is there any problems when I put the X1 in?
> Thanks,
> Ray


Can you check this thread Create a new rig before you post any of you problems because by create you rig it will help us with your question. make sure you fill everything. take your time and do it.









thank you skyn3t


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## saleen146

skyn3t:

I am asking a question about Mayhem pastel coolant.....I thought this thread was where to ask questions!

I am getting some foaming, is that normal?.....question got answered

Waiting to hear if I switch to X1 (a Mayhem product) will there be any compatibility?

BTW who are you, a moderator?...your post "create a new rig" was not very clear...

I am hoping to get a response from the Mayhem rep. (which I did regarding foaming)


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## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saleen146*
> 
> skyn3t:
> I am asking a question about Mayhem pastel coolant.....I thought this thread was where to ask questions!
> I am getting some foaming, is that normal?.....question got answered
> Waiting to hear if I switch to X1 (a Mayhem product) will there be any compatibility?
> BTW who are you, a moderator?...your post "create a new rig" was not very clear...
> I am hoping to get a response from the Mayhem rep. (which I did regarding foaming)


ignorance is the worst thing in life. so i'm no answer and ask anything to you anymore peace out. don`t reply this a lets keep this thread.


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## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Yup sure do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7CZO9V8ivc or http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=222ZmMATf6I &
> 
> Can dig out more if you need
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> All the best
> N.


The yellow is outrageous!


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## Mayhem

@saleen146 There should be no problems just make sure you rinse and repeat before you use it. X1 is a standard liquid and works with no problems.

The foaming is not normal as we actually have de foamer in the liquid to stop this from happening hence why it is very rare to see it happen. i really cannot answer why you will have foam in there with out having a sample on hand to check it out my self. I would be second guessing and that is not the answer you need.


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## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> The yellow is outrageous!


Yeh I love it







..... It's easy to make up, I just use Aurora Supernova Clear & add a few drops of Mayhems Yellow Dye..

After I made the vid Mayhems did think about making a Yellow Aurora & naming it Namron Yellow (Namron being my forum name on the Specialtech forum which I frequent), Anyway the Namron Yellow never made it because there was no real call for it... But, like I said, It's easy to mix yourself anyway, As is any colour really, As the Aurora takes the Mayhems dyes brilliantly









N.


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## saleen146

Thank you for your prompt reply...the more I think about it I may have to much pump pressure.

I offer this information not as a crtitcism of your product but for my general information. I purchased my tubing and coolant based on good research before I found this thread. I didnt know the pastel and tygon were not compatable ... not your fault.

I am using a swiftech MCP35X2 which is a double pump...when running @ 100% for 30 minutes (I was testing my system) the reservoir creates a swirling effect that somehow causes the reservoir goes from half full to full (seriously). Since I had two pumps I have two reservoirs (one bay and one cylinder), but it is the smaller cylinder one (swiftech) that expands in volumn somehow.

I know that if I pose this issue to swiftech they will refer the problem to the coolant I am using.

Thank you for you time, I think you have a great product and will continue to use and learn about your products

Ray


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## Mayhem

Yeh we discussed it but yellow isn't a big seller and we need to be careful how much work i put on my self. Hence we re did the yellow dye just not the Aurora because the range is big enough as it is.

The white, Red and Blue in all ranges are our best sellers.


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## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh we discussed it but yellow isn't a big seller and we need to be careful how much work i put on my self. Hence we re did the yellow dye just not the Aurora because the range is big enough as it is.
> The white, Red and Blue in all ranges are our best sellers.


Yep & I totally understand







... I'm Just delighted that your making the Yellow Dye again, As my old stuff is nearly finnished now







... Mind you... I have had it for 2 years, So it's about time I bought some more New Yellow









OHH!!!... Also you gotta keep making the Aurora Supernova Clear to go with my Yellow Dye lol....

N.


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## B NEGATIVE

Still waiting for my green chameleon Mayhem.....


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## Willhemmens

B NEG, what other colour are you thinking of? Perhaps Dark to Light Green? Yellow to Green?


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> B NEG, what other colour are you thinking of? Perhaps Dark to Light Green? Yellow to Green?


I'm doing some testing for Mayhem on a new fluid,its very good but the colours don't match my bench.....been griefing Mick hard about it.

XD

He loves it.


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## lowfat

Still waiting on some sort of shade of grey. Man that would be sick.


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## hammy67

Got a question. can u have Pastel Blue then put a drop of UV Clear Blue Dye in to it. thank u.


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## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammy67*
> 
> Got a question. can u have Pastel Blue then put a drop of UV Clear Blue Dye in to it. thank u.


It won't become UV reactive no matter how much dye you put in it AFAIK. If you want UV your best bet would to use UV tubing, but I am not sure there is any good UV clear tubing out there. Everything I know clouds up.


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## _Killswitch_

I really like Mayhem's stuff. I was going to buy few things off Mayhem's website, this Friday (get paid on Thrusday) for my Uncle and I. Appear's the they don't ship to the states..or at least not to Missouri of the US.


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## hammy67

ok thank u.


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## hammy67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It won't become UV reactive no matter how much dye you put in it AFAIK. If you want UV your best bet would to use UV tubing, but I am not sure there is any good UV clear tubing out there. Everything I know clouds up.


this one be ok for it. http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/XSPC-38-ID---58-OD-10-16mm-High-Flex-Tubing--Clear--UV-Blue-pid-6744.html


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## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammy67*
> 
> Got a question. can u have Pastel Blue then put a drop of UV Clear Blue Dye in to it. thank u.


I've gotten the Pastel UV White coolant and added blue dye to it with good success. Too much blue dye can cancel out the UV effect though.


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## squick3n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> I really like Mayhem's stuff. I was going to buy few things off Mayhem's website, this Friday (get paid on Thrusday) for my Uncle and I. Appear's the they don't ship to the states..or at least not to Missouri of the US.


Performance PCs sells Mayhems stuff and are based in Florida

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_381_1071


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## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> I really like Mayhem's stuff. I was going to buy few things off Mayhem's website, this Friday (get paid on Thrusday) for my Uncle and I. Appear's the they don't ship to the states..or at least not to Missouri of the US.


They shipped to me


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## Mayhem

wow this thread has exploded a bit -

@B-Neg - in progress mate, ive been pulled back from deving for a bit as our sales have exploded and im having to triple my efforts to keep up. Hence deving products has slowed down a lot. "but they are continuing as i have solved the wall problem".

@saleen146 Those pumps should have no problem with the liquids we've tested them for over two years with no problems what so ever so it may be some thing else.

@lowfat we have gray its under test in my daughters PC

@_Killswitch_ We ship to the states but you may need to contact sales @ mayhems dot co dot uk direct for shipping prices. As some times the weight has to be worked out manually. How ever PPC sell direct as well and may be easier for you







..

@hammy67 You can make Pastel UV active. We have a UV white version of it how ever it would be cheaper for you to get the UV white version and add a few drops of blue dye to it, but do not go overboard else you'll blank out the UV white. If you were to buy the Pastel normal version you would all so require 40mls of UV clear blue, 250ml X1 concentrate. You would need to mix in 125ml UV concentrate add 1/2 a Ltr of DI water and add 3/4 of the Pastel then add on top of that a blue dye. This is extremely expensive hence its cheaper to get the UV white instead and add blue dye. (UV White it is £5.00 more than other versions of pastel due to the fact it takes so much work to get it to work and a lot of messing around but for you to make it your self it would cost you an extra £20 on top of the liquid it self)

@superericla haha ninja'd Yes you are correct you can do that







.


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## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> They shipped to me


Hey Bro just received in my mail today UV Blue Light for helping in my testing like you promised







That think can light up my room LOL I will post some update soon..


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## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> They shipped to me
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Bro just received in my mail today UV Blue Light for helping in my testing like you promised
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That think can light up my room LOL I will post some update soon..
Click to expand...

Not bad for about 3-4 inches of LED's


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## ginger_nuts

Just re-reading the original post.

And in reference to Mayhems Biocide, I see this:
Quote:


> Please air on the side of caution though as some makers of product do not like CU based biocides and recommend you do not use them.


Can anyone tell me if the XSPC Rasa blocks or RX/EX rad's have an issue?

and

If EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge E. - Acetal and bridging piece would have any issues?


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## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just re-reading the original post.
> And in reference to Mayhems Biocide, I see this:
> Can anyone tell me if the XSPC Rasa blocks or RX/EX rad's have an issue?
> and
> If EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge E. - Acetal and bridging piece would have any issues?


IIRC, EK did not recommend CU for their nickel. I cannot imagine it would harm Delrin.


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## Mayhem

XSPC has no problems. No problems reported on the EK-VGA Supreme HF Bridge E.


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## _Killswitch_

@ Mayhem

I know Performance-Pcs has it, but they don't carry one of item's you make that I'm after which is the 5 liter of the ultra Pure H20 =S. Besides depending how much it cost to ship from you guys, I could end up spending same money really.

Performance-pcs price's usually slightly higher + for me their shipping is also high =S


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## Mayhem

5 Ltr of UPH20 is extremely expensive to ship. Not worth the money shipping these to the USA mate. I will advise you not to do it.

The only way we could ship some thing like that cheap is via Cargo Container to USA.

E.g 2 Kg though our post office to USA is £14.99 takes up to 14 days to arrive. 2 Kgs Fed Ex to USA is £19.99 and takes 1 day to arrive. UPH20 5Ltrs weight is 5 Kgs Even if i gave you it for free you still talking a hefty price for delivery.

Go to you local drug store and ask for either grade 3 Ultra Pure water or get hold of some high purity Distilled water which is easily available in the USA (so ive heard).


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## trendy

So I was browsing the magazines at the store today and saw the September 2012 issue of MaximumPC on the shelf with the 2012 "Dream Machine" on the cover.... using none other than Mayhem's Pastel Blue Berry.... I recognized it immediately because I'll be using that color in an upcoming build.


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## skyn3t

I was playing with some Dye last night and i think I end up making some nice and weird color at the same time.

:: Without Flash ::


:: With Flash ::


I call this

*:: Green Lantern ::* One of my favorite
250ml of Dist water
5 yellow
1 blue

you just double the dose accord to your loop.















*:: GreenOrange ::* One of my favorite
250ml Dist water
5 drops UV green
1 drop of UV pink
Under UV Light











*:: OceanGreen ::* One of my favorite
250ml Dist water
30 drops C/B
1 drop of Blue
1 drop of Orange











:: Green Lantern UV ::
250ml of Dist water
5 drops UV Y/G
1 drop blue
Under UV Light

















hope you guys like it.


----------



## Mayhem

The first green you shown is some thing weve done - weve called emerald green and it will be out with in the next 3 weeks.

@trendy do u have a scan of it ... would be cool to see.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The first green you shown is some thing weve done - weve called emerald green and it will be out with in the next 3 weeks.
> @trendy do u have a scan of it ... would be cool to see.


Here Mick i found it @ ebay Dream Machine Set 2012


----------



## Shiikamaru

Hello, I have mayhem x1 uv blue and and 1 uv clear. Any suggestions to how can i make my dye more uv reactive as the current combination not giving much of an effect. and any recommendations on uv lightings? im using 2 inch uv cathode at the moment.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> Hello, I have mayhem x1 uv blue and and 1 uv clear. Any suggestions to how can i make my dye more uv reactive as the current combination not giving much of an effect. and any recommendations on uv lightings? im using 2 inch uv cathode at the moment.


The more dark blue you add the less UV active it becomes as it drowns out the UV colour. To have a UV bright you need to add less deep blue. Its a very fine balance. All so Most UV led strips are rubbish and give off more purple light then actual UV Black light. Decent CCFL's do a better job than rubbish LEDs. And the best light you can add is a disco type black Tube light.

@skyn3t dam no eBay account







.


----------



## n3farious

Gotta love FedEx & Mayhem's ... my order was placed 3 days ago and I just signed for it. The X1, dye and silver all arrived in good condition.







4500 miles in 3 days...









-n3f | Clint


----------



## Codycjd

For just normal distilled + mayhem's red dye, should I fill my loop completely and then start dropping the dye into my res? Or mix then fill?


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Codycjd*
> 
> For just normal distilled + mayhem's red dye, should I fill my loop completely and then start dropping the dye into my res? Or mix then fill?


good question, i'd like to know the answer to this too.


----------



## Codycjd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> good question, i'd like to know the answer to this too.


And now... we wait. haha.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Codycjd*
> 
> For just normal distilled + mayhem's red dye, should I fill my loop completely and then start dropping the dye into my res? Or mix then fill?


Both ways work. If you want to be sure to get the right colour without waiting for the dye to disperse through the loop then mix it before putting it in your res.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Codycjd*
> 
> For just normal distilled + mayhem's red dye, should I fill my loop completely and then start dropping the dye into my res? Or mix then fill?
> 
> 
> 
> Both ways work. If you want to be sure to get the right colour without waiting for the dye to disperse through the loop then mix it before putting it in your res.
Click to expand...

It's just that the colour might look different in the loop, if you mix it in a bottle. I'd say fill your system up and then start dropping the dye in little by little, you shouldn't be in a rush after assembling the damn thing and leak testing etc.


----------



## Codycjd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Both ways work. If you want to be sure to get the right colour without waiting for the dye to disperse through the loop then mix it before putting it in your res.


TY! This is what I was planning on doing, to get the perfect color. Thought I'd ask first before i did it to make sure there would be no damage to the res or something.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

The bottle or jug mix will be a bit darker than what it will look like in tubes

Deep blue


----------



## theseekeroffun

It will look darker in your res than it will in your tubing. You should always add the dye after your up and running, if you have a leak, you will waste dye, not to mention how cool it is to watch it changing colors.


----------



## ASO7

*Ultra Deep Blue*


----------



## MrGrievous

is it possible to make blood red coolant using mayhems red die on distilled water?


----------



## nyk20z3

My Aurora Extinction Green arrived today -


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> It will look darker in your res than it will in your tubing. You should always add the dye after your up and running, if you have a leak, you will waste dye, not to mention how cool it is to watch it changing colors.


Is the black oil a pre mix? Your pic gives me an idea..Love that black:thumb:


----------



## Kokin

Is there any negative effect of adding Distilled Water to the Pastel UV White Coolant or would my whole loop have to be composed of the UV White coolant? Does the Pastel White combined with the UV Clear/Blue Dye have the same effect?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Is there any negative effect of adding Distilled Water to the Pastel UV White Coolant or would my whole loop have to be composed of the UV White coolant? Does the Pastel White combined with the UV Clear/Blue Dye have the same effect?


It can be diluted to some extent, but too much diluting can cause the nano particles to separate from the fluid. Adding UV Clear/Blue dye to the Pastel White coolant would take a lot of dye and would end up being much more expensive.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Looking to pick up some Pastel Red. SUBBED this to learn all I can...


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel works in any system you will be fine with it straight away







.


----------



## NewHighScore

I'm so glad the Pastel Yellow is readily available in Canada. I can't wait to get this in my loop.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> is it possible to make blood red coolant using mayhems red die on distilled water?


I can't find the mixing guide that was on their website, but yes. I used Red and Deep Blue, mix one drop of blue in about 2 liter of water. Mix your red about 10 drops for your loop, add a very small drop of the mixed blue, keep adding until it's where you want it. This is what mine looked like.


----------



## Mayhem

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/download/MD_BR_UVBR.pdf (blood red mixing guide)

Ive just up loaded it for a short time grab it while you can. This is a old guide but will do the trick.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I can't find the mixing guide that was on their website, but yes. I used Red and Deep Blue, mix one drop of blue in about 2 liter of water. Mix your red about 10 drops for your loop, add a very small drop of the mixed blue, keep adding until it's where you want it. This is what mine looked like.


Thank you so much, i'm about to order some blue so I can make some Blood Red


----------



## Ficu

Mahyems Blue Berry


----------



## Fuganater

Pastel Red with Red Dye










Pastel Gigabyte Orange














































Red Dye


----------



## MrGrievous

Awesome just what I was looking for!!!!! Didn't know a chart lk this existed before (most likely because I'm still learning lots bout water cooling lol.) Now I'm wandering if it's possible to make a Blood Red coolant from the red pastel mix as I have grown quite attracted to it lol (I know it won't be see thru)


----------



## skyn3t

Bump for this Thread it deserve it


----------



## somebadlemonade

am i the only one that thinks the gigabyte orange pastel looks like orange juice?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> am i the only one that thinks the gigabyte orange pastel looks like orange juice?


NO


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> am i the only one that thinks the gigabyte orange pastel looks like orange juice?


Nope.


----------



## Mayhem

Heard it so many times. why do you think child safety caps are fitted to "All" our coolants lol. When we started making all these colours a few years back my daughter said "dad that look like juice" instant reaction was that's it every thing gets fitted with child safety caps.


----------



## NewHighScore

Anyone have a picture of Sunset Yellow in use? I have only seen the bottle at Dazmode







. I really want to try it out.


----------



## Mayhem

these pics are not of my systems though just users of our products.


----------



## NewHighScore

Oh hubba hubba that is perfect Mayhem! Even has the Akasa fan I wanted to pair the Sunset Yellow with. Color match is PERFECT!


----------



## Mayhem

**New product**

Product type : Dye
Size : 10ml
Name : Mayhems Emerald Green dye
UV Active : No
Can it be made UV active : Yes add Mayhems UV yellow green to it.
Release date : Now


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> these pics are not of my systems though just users of our products.


That is beautiful, makes me wanna get a new mobo.....


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> That is beautiful, makes me wanna get a new mobo.....


I'm planning this for the ASRock Z77 OC Forumla.


----------



## Michalius

Just stopped in to share my mix. Pastel Green w/ UV Yellow Dye.





First is a bit more color accurate.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just wondering if I was to mix UV clear blue dye to Pastel Blue Berry, would I get a awesome looking blue that is UV reactive?

I just love the look of that Pastel Blue Berry every time I see it.


----------



## Michalius

Yes you would. Mine is definitely UV reactive now. Even under white LEDs the color changes quite a bit.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Heard it so many times. why do you think child safety caps are fitted to "All" our coolants lol. When we started making all these colours a few years back my daughter said "dad that look like juice" instant reaction was that's it every thing gets fitted with child safety caps.


haha i was going to say the something along those lines


----------



## ahweng38

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Just stopped in to share my mix. Pastel Green w/ UV Yellow Dye.
> 
> 
> First is a bit more color accurate.


what tubing ??


----------



## Michalius

Primochill LRT Clear


----------



## Goofy Goober

some pictures of my rig, filled up with Mayhems Pastel Light red + a little bit of Grape red + 10 drop of Red Dye thumb.gif


----------



## Fuganater

Epic build!


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Goober*
> 
> some pictures of my rig, filled up with Mayhems Pastel Light red + a little bit of Grape red + 10 drop of Red Dye thumb.gif
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


cut cut cut i want see a cut out in the hole side panel do it


----------



## EAnushan

Mayhem,

What exactly is the difference between Ice Dragon Nano Fluid and Mayhem Pastel Ice White? I'd rather use Mayhem, but Dazmode has run out of ice white (not sure when he'll get more, but since he's a small store, might be a while).


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems contains smaller amount of IDC + "few extras" this helps prolong the life of the liquid and aids in colouring it. IDC is much stronger and requires a lot more dye to make it as colourful as pastel colours we create.


----------



## nyk20z3

My UV Green came in so basically i mix this with 500ml's of distilled water or just add as is desired ?


----------



## Mayhem

X1 concentrate makes 2 Ltrs. it says on the bottle what the mix ratio is







.


----------



## Johnblaze97

Mayhem,

Any idea when the new Emerald Green dye will be available for purchase here in the U.S.?


----------



## Shiikamaru

Possible to mix x1 uv blue with pastel blue berry? Not very happy with the UV effect. Seems to be gone within weeks.


----------



## POMLORE

Hi all, Just filled up with pastel ice white UV, amazing stuff took about 30 seconds to clear any bubbles and did not have to tip system on its side like i did with previous fluids


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> Possible to mix x1 uv blue with pastel blue berry? Not very happy with the UV effect. Seems to be gone within weeks.


The UV effect should not change on UV blue for a very long time. All so please show some pic's before and after.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Mayhem..Is it possible to get the Gigabyte Orange darker by adding Orange dye or what would be the best way?

More towards what the sleeve color is..


----------



## Mayhem

Yes it is as happens this system was made by Harry Wessels and he used extra Mayhems Dye Red to make it a matching colour and if we do say so our self he has made one hell of a good orange.










From his email this is how he made it
Quote:


> 3 bottles of Mayhem H2O
> 3 bottles of Gigabyte Orange Pastel
> 1/2 bottle of Mayhem Red Dye


.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes it is as happens this system was made by Harry Wessels and he used extra Mayhems Dye Red to make it a matching colour and if we do say so our self he has made one hell of a good orange.


That is perfect ..Thank you.. God that looks Brilliant !!


----------



## Mayhem

yeh have to admit i had to pick my jaw off the desk when i saw that picture.


----------



## Fuganater

I may need to do that to darken mine up to match the plexi in my build


----------



## khemist

I'm using Yellow tubing but you can see the sunset Yellow in the blocks.




























It's almost a perfect match.


----------



## Mayhem

Very neat clean set up there. Its looks very smart do you midn if i ask what you temps are like inc the ambient air temp (if you know).


----------



## xlink64

I think I may be having a problem with Mayhem's Clear UV Blue dye. The UV blue effect seems to fade way faster than I believe is intended.

After two days or so of putting around 20 drops into the loop, it looked like this: (The camera makes it look brighter than it really is)



And this is what it looks like after I just put around 15 more drops in:



I'm using two of these cathodes to light the system: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2992/lit-23/12_Cold_Cathode_Kit_Dual_Ready_-_Ultra_Bright_UV.html?tl=g6c75s132

I did some google searching and found a few posts saying how phobya flexlights seemed to be eating UV effects in blue dyes, but did not see anything about cathodes. Is there a specific UV light that you guys recommend be used with your UV dyes?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Very neat clean set up there. Its looks very smart do you midn if i ask what you temps are like inc the ambient air temp (if you know).


I will try to get a few tests done soon and report back.


----------



## Mayhem

Did you clean your system out with any using before using the dyes. We have spoken to ppl in the past and we normally find out its either a new system and has never been flushed or they have washed out with vinegar and not flushed properly afterwards that causes this to happen.

A good way to test is take the dye put some di water in a glass or bottle and seal it, make sure that it has been washed out beforehand. Leave it in you system next to the light, if the dye in the tubing / system fades and the one in the bottle / glass doesn't this tells you that some thing is wrong with your system and not the dye it self.


----------



## xlink64

I did flush the system out, but only with distilled water. Mayhem's Ultrapure water is the actual coolant in the system currently.


----------



## Mayhem

did you add a biocide. If you did how much / which biocide. If it was ours did you get the PH test kit with it, if so what is the reading on the kit.

What im trying to do is narrow it down because if we can find the route cause we can hopefully point you in the right direction to help fix the problem.


----------



## xlink64

I'm using Mayhem's Extreme Biocide. Since I used almost exactly one bottle of the Mayhem's Ultrapure water (Which is 1 liter), I just put 2 drops of the biocide into the loop as per the instructions on the bottle.


----------



## s0up2up

Hey there Mayhem,

What dye/ or combination of dye has the closest colour to this.

It will be intended for full time use.


----------



## somebadlemonade

i wonder how hard it would be to make a color that looks like beer?


----------



## xlink64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> A good way to test is take the dye put some di water in a glass or bottle and seal it, make sure that it has been washed out beforehand. Leave it in you system next to the light, if the dye in the tubing / system fades and the one in the bottle / glass doesn't this tells you that some thing is wrong with your system and not the dye it self.


I will try this tomorrow.


----------



## n3farious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> i wonder how hard it would be to make a color that looks like beer?


Sorry to be a troll, but I assume you mean a domestic pale lager or a German pilsner style beer? Beer can be pretty much any color and has a whole method for describing the color of beer, called the Standard Reference Method or SRM. Check out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standard_Reference_Method and the chart there.
/troll mode=off









If my assumption is correct, I would think a 50/50 clear x1/yellow x1 base with a drop (or less?) of red?


----------



## somebadlemonade

yea, pale lager, though a guinness would look pretty awesome as well


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlink64*
> 
> I'm using Mayhem's Extreme Biocide. Since I used almost exactly one bottle of the Mayhem's Ultrapure water (Which is 1 liter), I just put 2 drops of the biocide into the loop as per the instructions on the bottle.


Please can you test with the PH test kit that came with the biocide and tell me what the PH level of you system ism thank you.

@s0up2up to get that combo there is two choses

UV Yellow Green + Blue
UV Yellow Green + Emerald Green

UV Yellow Green Gives you the base UV colour you need. The main colour can be achieved via adding Blue or Emerald Green. If using Blue dye add 1 drop to 100 ml of water then slowly add that to the UV Yellow Green to get the desired colour. If just using Emerald Green just add 1 drop at a time direct from the bottle to the UV yellow green.

@somebadlemonade Orange dye will make it for you with a small amount it will look fine, if you want to lighten it more add yellow to the orange to make it even paler. Or as said tiny amount of yellow and red.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just wondering Mayhem if you would be kind enough to describe or link a good and safe method for rinsing/cleaning out a loop.

Seem to be reading quite a few different methods, and I am confused









I am in the process of adding GPU blocks and another rad. to my loop, and want to use Pastel Blue Berry and X1 UV Clear Blue with XSPC clear tubing.

Also wondering if after mixing and adding these together, if I will need to or should use a kill coil as well or not?


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just wondering Mayhem if you would be kind enough to describe or link a good and safe method for rinsing/cleaning out a loop.
> Seem to be reading quite a few different methods, and I am confused
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am in the process of adding GPU blocks and another rad. to my loop, and want to use Pastel Blue Berry and X1 UV Clear Blue with XSPC clear tubing.
> Also wondering if after mixing and adding these together, if I will need to or should use a kill coil as well or not?


I remember reading that Mayhems had the best luck with tubing using clearflex 60, is xspc tubing any good?
Anyway what I did was flushed out my rads first with a bit of dish soap and distiller water then hot distilled water until you're not getting anything else out. Then set up your loop and leak test for 24 hours. After that drain again and fill up with mayhems.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Here in Australia we are very limited in what tubing is available,

There is XSPC clear, Primochill (clear and colored) which I bought some blue to find it is more purple.

or masterkleer.

In the first post of this thread Mayhem states that the pastel coolants seems to work with no problems with XSPC or masterkleer tubing.

See I do not want to put dish soap in if there is any chance of it effecting the performance or look of the coolant.

Also how can you be sure it is all washed out? Call me paranoid but I do not want to waste any more money then I already have.


----------



## PhantomTaco

When cleaning the radiators drain the water in a glass and let it settle and see what bits you find in it. Keep cleaning until there's none or very little left then do a leak test. After that drain again and you should be good


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Here in Australia we are very limited in what tubing is available,
> There is XSPC clear, Primochill (clear and colored) which I bought some blue to find it is more purple.
> or masterkleer.
> In the first post of this thread Mayhem states that the pastel coolants seems to work with no problems with XSPC or masterkleer tubing.
> See I do not want to put dish soap in if there is any chance of it effecting the performance or look of the coolant.
> Also how can you be sure it is all washed out? Call me paranoid but I do not want to waste any more money then I already have.


If your on the fence about tubing.. I recommend Primochill clear if using Dyes or other forms of color..









http://www.overclock.net/t/1192867/primochill-vs-masterkleer-tubing-4months-usage

I have read hundred of posts trying to figure out what to buy for clear tubing and have been steered toward primochill more and more









Good luck


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Mayhems Pastel Coolant
> 
> Mayhems Pastel is a mixed bag of tricks and has a extremely long life span. This product was developed in conjunction with "Ice Dragon Cooling" to produce pastel type colours for the PC user. Mayhems Pastel Coolants can be used up to 3 years in a system.
> 
> Do not use Mayhems Pastel with Primochill tubing or Tygon tubing as Mayhems Pastel seems to react with it changing the colour of the tubing to a greenish colour. This is not the fault of Primochill, Tygon or Mayhems it is just a incompatibility issue. Pastel works fine with XSPC, Thermochill, Clear Flex, Masterclear and a few other brands.
> 
> Mayhems Pastel is a every day type liquid unlike Mayhems Aurora and can be used in all systems and has never had any reported problems as such.
> 
> Colours Mayhems Pastel comes in as standard in 250ml concentrate and 1 ltr premixed.
> White (this is the base mix you can change to any colour)
> Red
> Blue
> Pink
> Green
> Yellow
> Orange
> Purple
> UV White (this is only available in 1 Ltr premix and cannot be made in 250ml concentrate)


Mayhems doesn't reccomend using Primochill


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Mayhems doesn't reccomend using Primochill


After seeing the god awful plasticizer affect in primochill I retract the recommendation. Reading old reviews on there products everyone recommend it. Something has took a turn for the worse with there manufacturing.


----------



## Mayhem

We use Clearflex 60 allot and this is my personal preferred tubing. We all so tested Masterkleer and a few others with no problems.

As for cleaning my systems down i plug my systems into the mains tap, turn it on and leave it running between 25 to 30 min and then rinse with DI water afterwards. If it is dye stained i just pull though my tubing and if its really badly stained i just replace it. Since Clearflex is 1/4 of the price of branded tubing im not fussed.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> After seeing the god awful plasticizer affect in primochill I retract the recommendation. Reading old reviews on there products everyone recommend it. Something has took a turn for the worse with there manufacturing.


Thanks for actually retracting your statement once you found an error, to many people would not.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We use Clearflex 60 allot and this is my personal preferred tubing. We all so tested Masterkleer and a few others with no problems.
> As for cleaning my systems down i plug my systems into the mains tap, turn it on and leave it running between 25 to 30 min and then rinse with DI water afterwards. If it is dye stained i just pull though my tubing and if its really badly stained i just replace it. Since Clearflex is 1/4 of the price of branded tubing im not fussed.


Mayhem to the rescue once again, thanks, you seem like such an honest and truthful person, I wish you all the best for youre business.


----------



## dryan01uk

@ginger_nuts

I recently imported 40 feet of duralene from Sidewinder PC. It cost me $70 - almost as much as the tubing, but I figured, it would be cheaper in the long run.

Just about to tube up my first water cooling rig - going to be interesting to see how the temps hold up in our typical summer .....

Got my Mayhems from Thekoolroom - fantastic service and would recommend thoroughly.

D


----------



## Mayhem

Interview with mayhems









http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/08/21/mayhem-s-interview/1


----------



## dryan01uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Interview with mayhems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/08/21/mayhem-s-interview/1


Aurora2 - can't wait to see this on the shelves at my local retailer.....









Keep up the great work, Mick.


----------



## xlink64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Please can you test with the PH test kit that came with the biocide and tell me what the PH level of you system ism thank you.




Ok, here is the PH test strip. The system currently has two drops of the biocide in it with just over one ltr of mayhem's ultrapure. Should I add another drop?


----------



## superericla

It's decently acidic as it is and I think the biocide would add more acidity to the loop...


----------



## nyk20z3

I am using Primochill UV Green tubing and Mayhems UV green coolant and I don't forsee having any problems at all.

I guess I will have to report back months down the road.


----------



## Mayhem

No that is acid as said and you have got a problem. The only real way to fix that is to start again as you have added to much Biocide and if the system still had acid in it from before (wich does happen with new equipment). Only add 1 drop at a time then test it as it says on the the chart at the back. This is why we included the PH test kit so you can find out quickly what your problems is.

Dyes are very susceptible to the PH of your liquids and this is why a lot of people had failures in the past. Hence we introduced the simple PH test kits so that you can resolve these issues your self. Remember though every thing Mayhems make in either concentrate or dye form is extremely strong. We do not mess around when it comes to these and sell you diluted over weight liquids.

Mayhems Ultra Pure when first used doesn't really need any biocide at first (for the first few weeks of use) you again should test this before adding biocide (again it should say that on the back of the card). The idea is simple you use a little bit of a test strip and test before and after adding biocide so that you can do it correctly.

Next time we make the cards i will out line the 6,7,8 in red to show were you should be aiming for.

If you do not wish to strip your loop there is another way to make your liquid neutral and that is to nip to your local pet shop and ask them for a PH balancer kit. this will allow you to bring you system back to equilibrium which is PH 7

Never be phased by this as what you have done is normal and people just do not realise it as they have never had such simple test kits given to them before and are normally miss informed on forums as to the route issue of the problem.


----------



## xlink64

Will flushing the loop at few times with distilled water do the trick, or should I just completely disassemble the loop and scrub everything down?


----------



## Mayhem

You need to get the acid out. Use a small amount of bicarbonate of soda, about 1/2 a tea spoon to 1 Ltr flush this though the system and then flush though with DI water this will help remove it







. what your trying to do is neutralize the acid and bi crab can help do this as it will being the PH level back up







.


----------



## xlink64

Cool, thanks









Edit: I just ordered some more ultrapure and it will take a few days to get here. Will leaving the water in there a little longer in its current state cause any damage to any of the components or tubing or anything?

Edit 2: When you say bicarbonate of soda, you mean baking soda right?


----------



## Mayhem

yeh that's correct "baking soda" is what it is normal called. If i was you id do this as soon as possible as acid will corrode blocks quicker than normal. Try adding a tiny amount for the moment just to bring your PH level back to normal.


----------



## xlink64

Ok, added some baking soda to the loop and the test strips are looking closer to the 7 mark on the PH chart. I ended up using all of the PH test strips though, so I'll have to make a trip to lowes tomorrow. =P

Also, I dipped a PH test strip into the ultrapure water without adding anything to it, and it seems the ultrapure is a bit acidic, is this normal? I could not find anything about the PH on the ultrapure bottle itself.


----------



## Mayhem

Yes this is normal and is a little miss leading due to the way UP H20 is made. The longer you leave the cap off the bottle the more the PH will go up.
Quote:


> *Taken from another web page not from my words -* Here is some theory- H2O molecules have infinite resistance. It is ions that cause solutions to be conductive. Even perfectly pure water has some ions because of the equilibrium between H2O, H+ (ions), and OH- (ions). The concentration of the ions H+ and OH- in perfect water is 0.0000001 molar at 25º C. The pH of this water is exactly 7.


We here have high end PH testing probes that allow us to test the water at every stage now so we know what the PH of the UP H20 is before it leaves us.

Your test strips BTW you could have ripped into 1/4 sizes and used instead of dipping in a whole test strip. There was enough in the Pack to last the life time of the bottle lol.


----------



## xlink64

Yea I might have gotten a little carried away with the testing lol.


----------



## s0up2up

Hey there Mike, thanks for all the help! Where is the best place for someone to pick up Mayhems Dye, particularly if said person live in little ol' New Zealand?


----------



## ahweng38

Can.mix DI water with white paste?


----------



## Rickles

I would love to see a nice UV purple


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> I would love to see a nice UV purple


UV pink and (UV) blue mix = UV purple (maybe) ?


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> UV pink and (UV) blue mix = UV purple (maybe) ?


I do not doubt that it can be done, I would just like to see some examples before I spend $40 to change out my tubes and get the dyes.


----------



## Mayhem

@s0up2up we are not allowed to give out details of were our products can be bought from. This is against the forum rules. How ever Google is a good source of information as well as our web site and facebook page.

@Blizlake you can make any colour you wish how ever for us to give a example every time we are asked would take us for ever. All you need to remember is mixing dyes is nearly the same as mixing light. A simple look though Google can help you understand this more using search terms such as "mixing colours" or "mixing light colours".


----------



## Rickles

is the clearflex 60 tubing any good, I see that it is inexpensive..


----------



## Mayhem

Clearflex 60 is what we use all the time and yes its cheap







. Another excellent source for tubing is a wine shop







them guys are perfectionists.


----------



## Mayhem

If your at the i46 you may be lucky if you catch me to see *Aurora 2 "Adamantium"*. The worlds first None Toxic liquid metal effect coolant. Ive only got a small sample though so it wont be in a PC. Ill only be there sat and sun though. Have a good weekend every one. Ill see you when i get back ...


----------



## LiquidHaus

impatient post - any idea how long shipping takes to the US from Mayhems' location in the UK?

got some emerald that should be here any day


----------



## NASzi

TY Mayhem for the blood red dye! Put about 20 drops of Red and just 1 drop of blue!


----------



## Mayhem

@ lifeisshort117 7 to 14 days unless Customs get hold of it and do there normal willy waving routine then we resend it back out once you let us know after the 14 days.







Some poele have had it in less than 5 days but we have no control over these matters.

@ NASzi blue is a mental colour


----------



## gavbon

i currently use pastel in my rig, but i want to mix myself some Yellow Aurora

i do know that aurora is not supposedly for 24/7 use, but i want to make sure my parts are compatible before i take the plunge

EK CPU block HF copper plexi

240mm + 360mm EK XT radiators

EK DCP 4.0 Pump combo

Tube res of some sort

would this be fine for aurora? or are these parts not compatible?

also would masterkleer tubing be ok?


----------



## Mayhem

Tubing fine, Block needs plate removing for best looks and to make it last, rad wouldn't have a clue, Tube res fine, Pump fine.


----------



## gavbon

what about a DDC pump with 440lph

will there be enough power to push aurora round 2 rads and a res?


----------



## Mayhem

None 1 rad, 1 res, 1 Block only and never any more., Aurora is not made for more than that.


----------



## Fuganater

Gonna give Durelne a shot next. I was using some cheaper tubing and it clouded up and looked brown :/


----------



## gavbon

ahhh well

looks like i wont be using aurora


----------



## gavbon

if i did go with 1 x 360 rad

would aurora be ok with 3 x 90 degree angle fittings? lol


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> impatient post - any idea how long shipping takes to the US from Mayhems' location in the UK?
> got some emerald that should be here any day


I don't know if you have your dye yet, hopefully it made it to you already. Their shipping was quick. I live in Kansas and was quoted at 7-14 days shipping. It made it in 5.









Edit: It was also the emerald green dye and it looks great under white LEDs


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gavbon*
> 
> if i did go with 1 x 360 rad
> 
> would aurora be ok with 3 x 90 degree angle fittings? lol


You do know that Aurora is not intended to be used in an everyday PC right?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gavbon*
> 
> if i did go with 1 x 360 rad
> would aurora be ok with 3 x 90 degree angle fittings? lol


There is a wiki on the very first post and it explains every thing you need to know. The rest is up to you.


----------



## iandroo888

Hi guys. i recently acquired a RASA 750 kit with RS360 radiator and kill coil. nothin additional as from the set. dont have coolant yet. I've been lookin at this coolant for a while and would love to use it. Considering the color scheme of my sig rig, its mostly red and black so i want like a nice red... ive seen some pictures of the pastel reds and dont really like it too much....

below is one ive seen that looks pretty nice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Made my own Blood Red. Its still not complete, as I've hit some set backs and have had no time to work on it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I can't find the mixing guide that was on their website, but yes. I used Red and Deep Blue, mix one drop of blue in about 2 liter of water. Mix your red about 10 drops for your loop, add a very small drop of the mixed blue, keep adding until it's where you want it. This is what mine looked like.


is there really blue in this? from what i understand, its 10 drops of red into the loop. then 1 drop of blue into 2 liters of water.. then using that mixture drop by drop into the loop until its a shade u like?

seems like a nice transparent blood red... may i ask what tubing this is? i want to get some good quality tubing too.. unless the one that comes with the kit is good.

this is a link to the kit (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12222/ex-wat-162/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Updated_Pump_and_Free_Kill_Coil.html?tl=g30c83s137) as a reference if you may not know what im talkin about or would like to use a reference to see whats included in the kit

thinkin of getting the following for fillin the system

Mayhems Biocide Extreme $8.95
Mayhems Dye - 10ml Red $9.95
Mayhems Dye - 10ml Deep Blue $9.95
Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O - 1Ltr $8.95 x 2? or 3?
i dont know how much is needed to fill the system... someone said it took them 2 liters to fill an rx240 system.. maybe i need 3l to fill my rs360?


----------



## gavbon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> There is a wiki on the very first post and it explains every thing you need to know. The rest is up to you.


thanks for that

think im going to get some of the Pastel Blueberry Blue for my new WC loop

now i just need to make a PSU cover mwuhahaha


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys. i recently acquired a RASA 750 kit with RS360 radiator and kill coil. nothin additional as from the set. dont have coolant yet. I've been lookin at this coolant for a while and would love to use it. Considering the color scheme of my sig rig, its mostly red and black so i want like a nice red... ive seen some pictures of the pastel reds and dont really like it too much....
> 
> below is one ive seen that looks pretty nice.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Made my own Blood Red. Its still not complete, as I've hit some set backs and have had no time to work on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I can't find the mixing guide that was on their website, but yes. I used Red and Deep Blue, mix one drop of blue in about 2 liter of water. Mix your red about 10 drops for your loop, add a very small drop of the mixed blue, keep adding until it's where you want it. This is what mine looked like.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> is there really blue in this? from what i understand, its 10 drops of red into the loop. then 1 drop of blue into 2 liters of water.. then using that mixture drop by drop into the loop until its a shade u like?
> 
> 
> 
> seems like a nice transparent blood red... may i ask what tubing this is? i want to get some good quality tubing too.. unless the one that comes with the kit is good.
> 
> this is a link to the kit (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12222/ex-wat-162/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Updated_Pump_and_Free_Kill_Coil.html?tl=g30c83s137) as a reference if you may not know what im talkin about or would like to use a reference to see whats included in the kit
> 
> thinkin of getting the following for fillin the system
> 
> Mayhems Biocide Extreme $8.95
> Mayhems Dye - 10ml Red $9.95
> Mayhems Dye - 10ml Deep Blue $9.95
> Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O - 1Ltr $8.95 x 2? or 3?
> i dont know how much is needed to fill the system... someone said it took them 2 liters to fill an rx240 system.. maybe i need 3l to fill my rs360?
Click to expand...

Thanks, I used Primochill and would not recommend it, it leached like crazy. You can see how bad it was in my build log.


----------



## iandroo888

does all tubing have plasticizer? how can u tell if there is any or not?


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> does all tubing have plasticizer? how can u tell if there is any or not?


As far as i know Durelene would be your best option right now ... It isn't a plastiziscer free tubing but many people here including myself are getting very good results with it so far.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I believe the same is said about Masterkleer tubing.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> As far as i know Durelene would be your best option right now ... It isn't a plastiziscer free tubing but many people here including myself are getting very good results with it so far.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I believe the same is said about Masterkleer tubing.


where u find duralene? only found masterkleer


----------



## Reglar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> where u find duralene? only found masterkleer


Bought mine at sidewinders.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> where u find duralene? only found masterkleer


Here you go

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/othertubing.html


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

XSPC seems very good for low plastiziscer leach.


----------



## stilllogicz

I'm very interested in creating the color of the blue berry pastel but with a UV glow. I think I read somewhere in this thread that the Pastel UV White Coolant & the Deep Blue dye would be achieve this, is this correct or did read wrong?

If that is correct, what would be the correct ratio/formula to achieve a blue berry pastel look with a solid UV glow?


----------



## ginger_nuts

You could use Pastel Blue Berry and add X1 UV Clear Blue.

This is what I plan on doing.

I believe doing this is a matter of adding both to DI water then adding to the loop.

Each bottle of Pastel makes 1 liter and each bottle of X1 also makes 1 liter, but I believe not an entire X1 UV Clear blue bottle will be needed to get a decent UV reaction.

But I am curious what would happen if I was to mix 2x Pastel Blue Berry's, 1x X1 UV Clear Blue and 1.25 Liter's of DI water to fill my loop of approx 3 Liters? With any luck Mayhem may help us


----------



## Shiikamaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The UV effect should not change on UV blue for a very long time. All so please show some pic's before and after.


BEFORE



AFTER


Sorry, took me quite some time to reply. Cant even see the tubes now.


----------



## Rickles

did you have a cathode burn out?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> Sorry, took me quite some time to reply. Cant even see the tubes now.


not gonna start shift though all the posts again. Im going to presume you checked the PH levels and corrected them first.


----------



## Rickles

I ordered some UV clear/blue and some deep purple from performance PCs, and some durelene 3/8 in 1/2 od from sidewinder for $.39 a foot. Should have some pictures next week. Hopefully I can get an acceptable UV purple without having to get a red dye.

EDIT: found a post of yours recommending a UV pink as well, so I ordered that too. Better safe than sorry.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockwerk*
> 
> I don't know if you have your dye yet, hopefully it made it to you already. Their shipping was quick. I live in Kansas and was quoted at 7-14 days shipping. It made it in 5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: It was also the emerald green dye and it looks great under white LEDs


still haven't received mine









im not sure if mayhem counts those days as business days or just regular calender days.

i ordered mine on the 17th..

soo im hoping to get it really soon









i've been subbed to your build log so im keeping tabs on the emerald green users


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Hey Mayhems.... Do you have some greyish coolant? Something similar to Gun Metal Switch 810


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Hey Mayhems.... Do you have some greyish coolant? Something similar to Gun Metal Switch 810


Aurora gunmetal









Yep that would be


----------



## Willhemmens

They do Oil Black X1 coolant but nothing Grey AFAIK. You might be able to mix something though.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> They do Oil Black X1 coolant but nothing Grey AFAIK. You might be able to mix something though.


Thanks... I may be able to light'n that up....

+REP


----------



## Mayhem

We have 3 new colour soon to be released.

Light Gray (was shown to some down at the i46)
Dark Gray
Adamantium (was shown to some down at the i46)

No pics yet as we are retaking pictures of every thing.

Mick


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have 3 new colour soon to be released.
> Light Gray
> Dark Gray
> *Adamantium*


Do want.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have 3 new colour soon to be released.
> Light Gray (was shown to some down at the i46)
> Dark Gray
> Adamantium (was shown to some down at the i46)
> No pics yet as we are retaking pictures of every thing.
> Mick


x1, pastel or aurora?


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

it should be the chameleon, coming out...

I am just waiting on my new card to show off my aurora/dye mix.


----------



## Mayhem

Adamantium is some thing new but a bit like aruroa how ever not as flashy and look like metal.

The grays are Pastel colours.


----------



## somebadlemonade

great now all we need is a terminator 2 themed build. . .


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have 3 new colour soon to be released.
> Light Gray (was shown to some down at the i46)
> Dark Gray
> Adamantium (was shown to some down at the i46)
> No pics yet as we are retaking pictures of every thing.
> Mick


Yes...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Adamantium is some thing new but a bit like aruroa how ever not as flashy and look like metal.
> The grays are Pastel colours.


I'm glad, that's what I am looking for a grey pastel, as I'm taking the red out my build when I WC... Thanks for the notice...


----------



## steelkevin

I'm getting a bunch of second hand components (over 380€ worth for 150) and the brand new stuff I'll be getting includes coolant. Since I started looking into water cooling about 8-10 months ago I've always planned to get my coolant from you guys (deep blue dye). But when I tried to place an ordered it told me you guys don't ship to France.
Why is it that I can't get anything English shipped to France. I can't get golden syrup to make flap jacks (god I miss those), Cadbury chocolate, gravy, cheesecake mixes... and now this (actually I could get those but I'd get ripped off on both the price and shipping fees). I really don't get it, France is right next to England, they're ferries all the time, there's an underwater tunnel and obviously airplanes.

Anyway, your stuff would be really expensive so right now I'm just going to get EK's UV blue coolant and I'll save up for proper coolant (yours) and ordered it whenever my dad moves back to England (Until then I'll be moving my PC twice a month, it's a 2hour car drive to my dad's right now, so it's better that I just leave regular coolant in it in case anything goes wrong I need to flush several times). If by then I still can't get it shipped to France from your shop (there's no online store that sells all I'd need, I think all I can get in France is the dye and that'd be 7€+7/10€ for the shipping) I'll have it shipped to my dad's and have him send it to me.

I've got some questions about coolant and this seems like the best place to ask. Would the color look different in 7/16 (11mm) Clearflex60 than in a cylinder reservoir ? And what exactly would I have to order to get a matte dark blue color (to match my Custom White/Blue Nike IDs and matte royal blue Zippo). Would it be better to get Dark Blue (they call it UV Blue) tubing and only see the coolant in the reservoir or to get Clearflex60 ?


----------



## Willhemmens

Don't use EK's UV blue. I have some and it turned to rubbish after 2 weeks.

PM or email Mayhems, I'm sure they'll be able to help you out.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Don't use EK's UV blue. I have some and it turned to rubbish after 2 weeks.
> PM or email Mayhems, I'm sure they'll be able to help you out.


I'm not interested in the UV effect btw.
Plus, I've not cut out my side panel yet so if I push that back until whenever I can afford a complete mayhem's mix and my rig won't be moving around anymore it doesn't really matter. But thanks for telling me that it's bad (I'd sort of already figured that anything but mayhem's was rubbish unless you don't want it colored) I'll only get a single bottle instead of two. Hopefully that'll be enough.
Mayhem's X1 UV blue premix is 9€ (EK's is 7€) but it isn't really what I'm going for so I'd be best going with the cheapest option until I can afford what I want.

I'm going to take a photo of my shoes and Zippo so you guys can see what color I'd like to get.


----------



## 1rkrage

using ice white + red dye on mine









want to switch to a blue one with my next build or do straight up ice white on next fluid refresh


----------



## LiquidHaus

finally got my emerald green in the mail









check it out..


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I'm not interested in the UV effect btw.
> Plus, I've not cut out my side panel yet so if I push that back until whenever I can afford a complete mayhem's mix and my rig won't be moving around anymore it doesn't really matter. But thanks for telling me that it's bad (I'd sort of already figured that anything but mayhem's was rubbish unless you don't want it colored) I'll only get a single bottle instead of two. Hopefully that'll be enough.
> Mayhem's X1 UV blue premix is 9€ (EK's is 7€) but it isn't really what I'm going for so I'd be best going with the cheapest option until I can afford what I want.
> I'm going to take a photo of my shoes and Zippo so you guys can see what color I'd like to get.


You get what you pay for. If you would like to get into costs pastel lasts 3 years and is £14.99 a bottle so works out at £5.00 a year that's cheaper than EKs fluid.

That blue is easy to create just get blue dye and if you would like it in pastel for you will need pastel + Blue dye.Very easy and very simple to make.


----------



## steelkevin

Cheers.

So I just need pastel Blue (or white ?) And dark blue dye ?
And pastel was indeed what i meant by matte







.

Can't get pastel mayhem's though and the blue dye is in extremelylimited stock (only a single one on aquatunig for example). Do you know what's up with not shipping to france ?


----------



## steelkevin

Oh sorry. Just checked again and aquatuning have all sort of pastel ones, as well as aurora and regular pre-mixes.
I don't know what color I'd need but they're pretty much all a bit over 17€. So it'd cost me like 25€ for a litre.

At that cost I've got to ask you if I ever have to drain / flush the loop, would I be able to re-use it ?

Would a single litre be enough for a 250ml reservoir, 2 55mm thick 280mm rads, a cpu block and a 355pump ?

Oh and I will eventually have to flush when i put my gpu under water.


----------



## jfarrar

hi

brought some gigabyte orange for my system and for some reason its not orange it looks like a dirty pink

i cleaned out my loop before for 4 days with just distilled water so i know it cant be contaminated

here is a pic to show you



and here is another one close up in the res



i brought this stuff from overclockers and noticed when i put it in it was that colour but thought that it might be just how it is before it flowing

like the auora coolent

oh and yes i shock the dam thing for ten mins

any help !! or do i just complain to overclockers for another bottle

cheers


----------



## somebadlemonade

honestly i'd stop buying mayhems dyes from overclockers

they seems to be having problems with mayhems dyes http://www.overclock.net/t/1299801/swiftech-mcp35x-noise-problem

maybe mayhem could figure out what's going on, since that's 2 cases so far that i've seen, either it's a rare happening, but 2 from the same place within a week of each other, there might be a bigger problem

well unless you like you loop to look like it's cooled with chocolate milk


----------



## Mayhem

@jfarrar Oky i have seen that before a while ago.

Please send a email to [email protected] with you Full name address and telephone number and the amount you bought (if you have the receipt we will need it). we will replace it all. This has nothing to do with any of our resellers. If you can, can you get a sample of the liquid to me as well.

If any one else has this problem please let us know asap. we will refund / replace any products you have problems with no questions asked, All we need is the receipt and a little info. Ill get the warehouse to check all the batches and ill have a word with our resellers as well.

Im gonna take a guess at that that is the old orange with the older sticker on the bottle (paper one), the new version which has a clear plastic sticker users a total new type of orange.

mick


----------



## Shiikamaru

any other users using mayhem uv dye with the effect going off after awhile? i just redid my loop and this time the uv effect went off even faster than the previous time.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiikamaru*
> 
> any other users using mayhem uv dye with the effect going off after awhile? i just redid my loop and this time the uv effect went off even faster than the previous time.


Having read most of the thread I can tell you what I remember.
Somebody was complaining about his UV effect not lasting long at all and/or him having to add a lot of drops to make it UV reactive (maybe that wasn't the same person). Mayhems asked if he'd cleaned his loop before using it and he said he'd let it sit for 4 days in distilled water if I remember well. He also asked what biocide he'd used it appeared to be mayhems.
Anyway, it ended with mayhems asking him yo use the PH test kit included with mayhems biocide I think and told him that they had extremely accurate PH measuring machines and that they controlled the PH level of every product they made. The guy with the UV problem did lots of testing and used all the PH paper.
But I can't remember the ending, sorry.

EDIT: wait, just saw your name, I think that person was you xD. No wonders I couldn't remember how the problem was solved.


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

My Mayhems. Thank you Mich


----------



## Mayhem

PH has a massive impact on Dyes the worse your PH the worse the dyes will react this is normal. So if you PH is out the dyes wil react simple as.. So adding to much biocide is bad (that's why we provide PH strips and a guide).

@xD3aDPooLx do you have the res on a angle as we've been looking to do this on a show build but with much longer res's. we've just been a little worried that it may lay along the bottom.

@Shiikamaru which dye faded please and do you have a PH test kit at had if not send me a Email and we will ship out a PH test kit to you so we can help diagnose the problem.


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> finally got my emerald green in the mail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check it out..


Looking good but man. I still haven't been able to get any pics that do that dye justice in my rig. Hopefully once my LEDs and stuff get here this week I can get some good ones.


----------



## somebadlemonade

haha, it's really hard for most cameras to pick up how dye's react to uv light i don't think there is a camera senor as good as the human eye at detecting color in low light conditions(that's what you need get the uv reactive effect to really stand out and pop), well that's widely available and affordable


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Mich

Its the biggest res koolance has which is 80mm x 240 mm... It does lay at the bottom a little bit, but I am going to work on getting it upright for a while to fix that.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> My Mayhems. Thank you Mich


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @xD3aDPooLx do you have the res on a angle as we've been looking to do this on a show build but with much longer res's. we've just been a little worried that it may lay along the bottom.


Check out this video looking at his res at the bottom sideways, he's got a nice current that I'm sure would work perfect with the aurora mixes

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa_F_tVwDJo&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockwerk*
> 
> Looking good but man. I still haven't been able to get any pics that do that dye justice in my rig. Hopefully once my LEDs and stuff get here this week I can get some good ones.


I had to Photoshop the lighting a bit since the camera sucked at it lol


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Check out this video looking at his res at the bottom sideways, he's got a nice current that I'm sure would work perfect with the aurora mixes
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa_F_tVwDJo&feature=youtube_gdata_player
> I had to Photoshop the lighting a bit since the camera sucked at it lol


He did a better job with his update....

Nice to see another local buddy, Life. Mo Val here.

he is a bigger pic of the setup..


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> He did a better job with his update....
> Nice to see another local buddy, Life. Mo Val here.
> he is a bigger pic of the setup..


Nice man! Love your rig. Pretty awesome you're in mo val we should lan sometime lol.

Btw, that res is HUGE!!!


----------



## Mayhem

I might be able to help with that laying. if you pm me across you address ill get some thing in the post to add to the liquid. it only need 1 to 5 drops. It wont change the colour or any thing but "may" help. its some thing weve been experimenting with and weve been adding it to newer version of aurora to help with the settling problem.


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I might be able to help with that laying. if you pm me across you address ill get some thing in the post to add to the liquid. it only need 1 to 5 drops. It wont change the colour or any thing but "may" help. its some thing weve been experimenting with and weve been adding it to newer version of aurora to help with the settling problem.


Sent


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have 3 new colour soon to be released.
> 
> Light Gray (was shown to some down at the i46)
> Dark Gray
> Adamantium (was shown to some down at the i46)
> 
> No pics yet as we are retaking pictures of every thing.
> 
> Mick


Any pics yet? I was just about order some blue pastel, but this might be worth waiting for.


----------



## steelkevin

@Mick (can I call you mick ?) which products would I need to get that Pastel dark blue color I'm looking for (Posted pics of my shoes and zippo a few pages back) ?
I was going to wait but apparently my dad really can't stay here because it sucks, he doesn't fit in, everybody's French and well he really misses England. Point being my rig isn't going to move until I move out of my mum's in a year or two and I figured I'd regret taking EK's UV Blue pre-mix when it's not really what I want. So I'll just put in the extra 14€ and buy less of other things (things that you share anyway so you never really need to buy unless all your friends are broke).
But that's only if a loop like mine won't need more than a liter otherwise I really can't afford it right now.
What do you think ?

EDIT: Aquatuning are out of the EK UV Blue pre-mix anyway so that makes the choice easier.

Btw, I don't care about whatever I read last night seconds before it was deleted, that's none of my business and it doesn't change the fact you're the only one who makes what I and many others want.

EDIT 2: Oh well, looks like I can't really afford the extra 17€ so I'll just get *Mayhems X1 UV Blue* because it's in stock and EK's had a silly cap/lid anyway (yours has a more appropriate one).


----------



## Mayhem

To make a dark blue you will only need Pastel and a bottle of Blue dye. Add as much as you need. It really is that simple.

If you stuck for cash send me a email Ill sort you out. Contact me direct at [email protected] and ill sort you it out so that you can afford it. We all have our limits and were to help you along the way as in our statement on first post its not about money but support so we will do every thing in our power to help you out.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> To make a dark blue you will only need Pastel and a bottle of Blue dye. Add as much as you need. It really is that simple.
> If you stuck for cash send me a email Ill sort you out. Contact me direct at [email protected] and ill sort you it out so that you can afford it. We all have our limits and were to help you along the way as in our statement on first post its not about money but support so we will do every thing in our power to help you out.


Done







.


----------



## Mayhem

Check your email and send the details i need asap and we will get the stuff in the post tomorrow to you.

Mick

Updated : Parcel packed and will be sent out tomorrow. Have fun and don't forget to post some pics.


----------



## Mayhem

For thouse interested we will be soon releasing X1 in "UV Emerald Green". All so a new Product will be out with in the next week or so Mayhems XT-1 which the perfect for users with chillers and can go down to -50c. More info will be posted soon.


----------



## RushMore1205

ok couple questions

so im starting a build that will have two loops, the build is red and white
so obvisoulsy just white for one loop

im wondering is there a red kind of like the white that is above that has the waves in it? or what is that called?

also have you guys figured out which tubing is best used with this? which one takes the least time to fade in or milk up?


----------



## Mayhem

If you going for a permanent system for use at home we can only advise you to use either Pastel, or X1. Any thing over that that is up to you self. Aurora is not meant for long-term use as stated in the first post on this thread.


----------



## Willhemmens

Take a look here. Mayhems do Red and White Aurora. I'd advise that you use Pastel of X1 though.

ClearFlex60 is what Mayhems recommends for the most part.


----------



## DigitalMonkey

@Mayhem

Do you have the up-to-date Ice Dragon coolant on your website?


----------



## Mayhem

How do you mean up to date its never changed pmsl.


----------



## Shakal

here is my aurora tharsis loop


----------



## s0up2up

So the X1 coolants are just the UV dyes with inhibitors and anti-corrosion additives added in?


----------



## DigitalMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> How do you mean up to date its never changed pmsl.


From what I read from the XS forums. He redesigned the bottle and modify the coolant a little. I have to find the exact post where he discussed the redesigned.


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Is there a difference between Mayhem pastel white and Ice Dragon fluid?


----------



## DigitalMonkey

Yea. Ice Dragon is more for high performance. Pastel hold on its own when it comes to cooling but its nothing compared to Ice Dragon.


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitalMonkey*
> 
> Yea. Ice Dragon is more for high performance. Pastel hold on its own when it comes to cooling but its nothing compared to Ice Dragon.


Are you sure? I was under the impression that Mayhem's pastel line up was Ice dragon with Mayhem dye. I could be totally wrong.


----------



## DigitalMonkey

Mayhem does sell Ice Dragon and they partner with Ice Dragon. But the coolant performance is different.


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitalMonkey*
> 
> Mayhem does sell Ice Dragon and they partner with Ice Dragon. But the coolant performance is different.


Any links to back that up? I've never heard of any one coolant performing better than any other.


----------



## DigitalMonkey

Your best bet is to start here and here. You have to do your own research from here. Good luck.


----------



## Mayhem

DigitalMonkey Speaks the truth and is 100% correct. Rep up









As for the bottles yes they now got screen printed bottles The rest ill look into.


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

So Mayhem pastel won't do this or this?


----------



## Mayhem

That's quite a interesting read how ever i cannot comment on it. We have tested Pastel with EK blocks with no side effects or issues what so ever.

In our time of selling pastel we not had a single complaint ref the above articles.

In the first article the user complains about white stuff in the loop. My answer would be use common sense its a nano fluid what does he expect. Common sense would dictate that OFC there will be residue of nano fluid after a flush, it takes time to get it out the system.


----------



## DigitalMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> So Mayhem pastel won't do this or this?


The second link is really not an issue at all. He just cleaned and polished his blocks. When you break down your system, you are going to have to do that. If that's something that you not ready for then stay away from water cooling.


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitalMonkey*
> 
> The second link is really not an issue at all. He just cleaned and polished his blocks. When you break down your system, you are going to have to do that. If that's something that you not ready for then stay away from water cooling.


Really, thats something that distilled water is going to do in 3-4 months? Come on now.









Don't get so defensive. If you aren't ready to have an adult discussion then stay away from the forums.

All that I know is that what I've seen on the forums is enough to steer me away from Ice Dragon fluid and I wanted to be sure that Mayhem's pastel is a different fluid. Thankfully there are no reported cases of the type of staining seen in those threads with Mayhem's pastel.


----------



## Rickles

I got my purple mixed up, it isn't quite as uv as I wanted. When my new case gets here I will post some pictures. The dyes I am using are deep purple, uv clear and uv pink.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Mayhems X1 u/v blue in mine with clear hose. I've got a rebuild due soon and I'll be using the same fluid but perhaps add a drop of Mayhems blue dye to make it a touch darker, and switching to Masterkleer clear u/v blue hose.


----------



## GoodInk

IMO, it looks pretty good now, but pics can lie sometimes.


----------



## Mayhem

I can say there has been no reported cases so far. I cannot deny nor confirm there will be an issue how ever under our testing so far there has not been any problems. This how this is like a game as one day someone will say "yup" it is stained the metal plating.. We are not going to be presumptions and say no it will never stain it would be tantamount to putting a knife to our own throats. We've seen plenty of products put claims up that fall flat on there face and we don't want to be put in the position. That is why we don't post so called Temp readings as every one is different and we don't base our fluids on such matters.


----------



## Mayhem

an idea came up a while back wouldn't it be cool to have lamp type thing for your desktop that matches you PC liquid .....

well you dam well can now !!!!!


















with the right lighting it gets better


----------



## GoodInk

Kinda cool, you might have the new lava lamp


----------



## Rickles

UGGH. Purple is giving me a headache. Trying to mix deep purple with UV blue and UV pink to get some UV purple action and it just looks blue (with cathodes or UV leds). Might try to use the UV pink as a base and add a little of the deep purple and see how that looks. In normal light it looks great, but not in UV.


----------



## Mayhem

What are you after a UV Purple as in making it look Purple under UV light. If so we have been trying to work this out since we were told it couldn't be done and we still haven't cracked it to this this date. It all ways looks blue







. We have comes close but not close enough that you know what colour your looking at.


----------



## somebadlemonade

yea i wouldn't think that's possible since the only purple you're likely to get from uv light is past the human capable light spectrum, =/ though there might be some birds that could see it

isn't uv blue pretty much on the edge of the human capable light spectrum anyways?


----------



## Mayhem

I dunno i don't do science or physics i just think any thing is possible if you ignore it all and do what you think is possible.. You can sped Millions on research and say some thing isnt possible, then some man in a shed can prove you wrong ...


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I dunno i don't do science or physics i just think any thing is possible if you ignore it all and do what you think is possible.. You can sped Millions on research and say some thing isnt possible, then some man in a shed can prove you wrong ...


That's my type of thinking and it's going in my sig


----------



## Rickles

Yes, I had a pretty darn fine looking purple under normal lighting. However, based on the concentration of the UV pink or UV blue dye it looks either blue or a creamy brown (rust colored maybe) under UV. It could very well be a science thing


----------



## somebadlemonade

haha good point, i commend you for trying, but have you figured out which one you are yet, the one to dump millions into it or the guy in the shed?

i guess i should probably say, try to do it with one shot, ie. a subtractive mixture, not an additive mixture, since you're dealing with how light refracts(and causes the reaction) through the material
you might have better luck with that


----------



## Rickles

I did that to an extent with using primarily the UV pink as my main additive, however once you add some deep purple under UV things just start to get creamy brown. I would guess the proper way to get a UV purple would be to take the color closer to a white, as UV tends to lead white to purple/blue on its own. Perhaps a cream colored purple.

Like this, or maybe more white


And then gaining the majority of the "purple" from the nature of cathodes / leds.

This could likely be done with a tiny amount of deep purple dye, but the difficulty arises from the UV aspect. Too much UV blue will just show blue, and too much UV pink will show pink to brown.

I will definitely keep working in my shed, until the big bad wolf comes and knocks it down. (Not that my wife is a big bad wolf)


----------



## somebadlemonade

hmm since you seem to be having a hard time getting the mixture just right maybe try reducing it with distilled like a 2 to 1 ratio or 1 to 1 ratio if you have an eye dropper


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh we've been playing but its like heaving to opposing forces. to much of one or the other causes an over dose. Weve waterd down each UV colour 1 drop to 100mls and still haven't had much success. Im sure it can be done but maybe not with the dyes we currently have.

Here is one of the new colours were working on and no its not UV active.


----------



## Rickles

Agreed, you would have to get more of an opaque (like your pastels) to get a UV purple I would assume, that being said I really like how my dye looks. It goes with my purple monsoon fittings perfectly. And I will probably pick up an nzxt hue in the next couple weeks so I can get even more PURPLER

I'll post a picture this weekend.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Mayhem just a suggestion but have you ever thought about creating a photo gallery with all these lovely awesome looking photos in one place.

Because I have seen so many that look great in rig's but the professional photos always look best.

Maybe even a link or something at the beginning of this thread would be good as well.


----------



## Mayhem

Were actually taking some pics Monday of all the fluids how ever we not allowed to link in on here. It could be considered as spamming hence we just post what we need to. If people wish to do some thing other that's up to them. We are very limited on what we can say and do on the forums and have to stick by and stand by the rules.


----------



## steelkevin

Guess what just arrived:



Got 10 litres of DI water to mix with that and a liter of cleaning vinegar to get every last bit of red coolant out of the second hand components.

Will post pictures when the loop is up and running (next weekend maybe, still got to order fittings and tubing).

Thanks again michael







!


----------



## Willhemmens

Awesome. Blue Berry Pastel is a lovely colour.


----------



## Rickles

Well, it looks pretty dark in this picture, and I might redo it and just go with UV pink.


----------



## jfarrar

well here is a update on the weird problems with the gigabyte orange coolent and what has been done

1.first off here is a pic of the coolent that was in my system



2.i then drained it and flushed it with distilled water again to clear out any other gunk this is what was in there



3.thought to myself is there any way of getting a better clean for the tubing that had gone cloudy after reading up someone said put fresh squeezed lemon juice about a tea spoon
and run your system for a bit and be amazed!!
and this is what happend after 30 mins the water was clear before i added the lemon juice



4.before i had the gigabyte orange coolent i had mayhems auroa red tharsis and i cleaned the system for 4 days with distilled water making sure (or so i though) to get all bits out.
this is a shot in a bowl and you can really see the pearls in there



so use some lemon juice to clean out your rig my tubes came up great like new and then wash it out with distilled water....

then it was choice time!!!

i took this shot to see the diffrence in color of .
1.my old coolent
2 the first batch they sent which i could see had a samon pink feel to it
3 the latest batch (looks great!!)



so went with the newest batch !!!

filled it up and what a stunning result!!!!

BEFORE!!

AFTER!!!


so in all cases i would say distilled water on its own is not enough to clean a system use some lemon juice worked wonders for me

and would like to give a big thanks to mike at mayhems for sending me replacement coolent .. not once but twice!!!!!!!
its really nice to know that some people go above and beyond to give the best customer service

i will use mayhems fluids till the end of time as i know i will get the best results and the customer service is top knotch:thumb:


----------



## Mayhem

Were still looking into the orange more and trying find out what causing the issue you've come across. But with any one else if they have you any problems we will sort it out if you contact us.


----------



## infernoaswen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Were still looking into the orange more and trying find out what causing the issue you've come across. But with any one else if they have you any problems we will sort it out if you contact us.


You're mr.lee right? I am considering to get a few mayhems dye's for myself & maybe few for my friends, but i am in malaysia so its quite far. Usually if i order from mayhems how long will it take for royal mail to send it to reach to my place? Also is it safe? I mean to travel so far, bottle wont get damage or leak or anything like that right?

If something happened will there be any warranty or its a risk i need to bear? Also like the previous former had a bad dye experience, lets say i went through similar problems & request for replacement. Do i need to pay for the shipping fee's?

Sorry for the bad english btw


----------



## Mayhem

Hi there

You pay for the dye and shipping once, If any thing brakes you take a photo send it to us and with in 12 hours it is resent free of change (you will not incur any extra costs) . if it happens again we will reship again.

Shipping and damages are our responsibly and its up to us to replace the products and these should not be passed onto the user ever. Our only grantee is that if you are not happy we will either replace or refund with out any issues or hoop jumping "No matter were you bought it from" as long as it is our products.

As for shipping times they are stated on our web site. How ever some times things do take a little longer but that is out of our control. If you would like tracking then you pay extra for that you will never pay more than actual cost it costs us for shipping.

We have actually been contacted buy 3 companies in Asia (2 x in China) who may be stocking or products.

How ever if you mess up and order some thing like Aurora and expect unrealistic expectations then that falls down to you self. we will not replace a product were you have not used you common sense or follow our instructions on the bottles or site.


----------



## beanscene

Hello mayhems users,

Hoping to join the club very soon







I have bottle of Mint Green pastel coming in the mail for my sig rig and I have a bottle of Galaxy Purple Aurora waiting to be put into my girlfriends PC once I get round to sleeving all the cables, painting the PSU, radiator and fan housings.

I am curious about the life span of the Aurora dyes if the Mayhem rep could help me out? I will be keeping an eye on the loop whenever i can and I understand they shouldn't be used as a everyday coolant but I was wondering if it be ok to leave the PC running for up to 6 months without changing the fluid?, and will leaving the PC turned off for extended periods of time (say 2-3 days) cause any problems with the pearl coming out of suspension? My GF's loop is using a phobya balancer 150 reservoir , laing ddc pump with XSPC top, one alphacool radiator and a DT Sniper CPU block. Not sure about the waterblock or rad but i know the res and pump should be fine from the wiki page.


----------



## Willhemmens

You shouldn't use Aurora in a 24/7 system. If you really must, post full specs once you know what they are as the radiator is quite important and we can tell you if it will work. Again, just use X1 or Pastel 24/7 systems.

Also pearl will come out of suspension as soon as you turn off the system and will collect at the bottom of tubes and your res over night.


----------



## Nornam

@ beanscene....... Providing the loop is a simple loop & you set the Rads & Res right, You'll get a good amount of time out of the Aurora * you won't loose out with particles settling out in the dead spots in your loop.. Thats the secrete with Aurora...Keep the dead spots to a minimum & it last for well over 6 months







..

Here's a little Vid I did awhile back looking at the "Settling out of the Particles"...



All the best..

N.


----------



## beanscene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> You shouldn't use Aurora in a 24/7 system. If you really must, post full specs once you know what they are as the radiator is quite important and we can tell you if it will work. Again, just use X1 or Pastel 24/7 systems.
> Also pearl will come out of suspension as soon as you turn off the system and will collect at the bottom of tubes and your res over night.


The radiator is a Alphacool Nexxxos ST30 120mm (only cooling an i3







) Its not necessary to run the Aurora but it has already been purchased and im happy to clean out the components and get something else if it fails. I am aware that it is not designed for 24/7 use and if it were up to me i would be using distilled water or mayhems pastels but she loved the look of Aurora so we decided to try it out








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> @ beanscene....... Providing the loop is a simple loop & you set the Rads & Res right, You'll get a good amount of time out of the Aurora * you won't loose out with particles settling out in the dead spots in your loop.. Thats the secrete with Aurora...Keep the dead spots to a minimum & it last for well over 6 months
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> Here's a little Vid I did awhile back looking at the "Settling out of the Particles"...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the best..
> N.


Thanks for the vid Norman, the aurora in your loop looks very diluted? is that how it looked before you let it sit for 5 weeks?
The radiator will either be mounted horizontally at the bottom of the case or vertically on the rear exhaust vent. I am hoping the simplicity of the loop (like you said) and the use of the tube res instead of a bay res will help the chances of the coolant working well.


----------



## Nornam

No beanscene, the Aurora wasn't diluted, but I did have/use very bright Led's in the base of the res & Photo lights (If you look very carefully you can just see the lights reflecting in the 45° fittings at bottom of res) The fluid was originally put into the system just after Christmas 2011. It stayed in the PC until about 6 weeks ago & was still performing well

I really like the effect of the Aurora fluid & will continue to use it (I just got another 4Ltrs last week







)..Although, Mayhems is going to launch an improved Aurora shortly I beleive that has been tweaked to last longer in a system, So am looking forward to trying some of that.

N.


----------



## Mayhem

thks guys all the above advice from the two users is correct as is a improved aurora is on its way. Were working with two very big companies right at this moment in time who are investing some time and effort into help aurora becomes a much better liquid. Hopefully if all works out aurora should last a hell of a lot longer and all so improve on its performance as well.


----------



## beanscene

thanks everyone, i will tell you my results and upload pics when its all running.
new clear tubing and green pastel should ship today or tomorrow and hopefully be here by the end of the week.
wish i could find 7/16ID 5/8OD tubing in Australia to go with my compression fittings that wasn't Primochill. I am not looking forward to my tubing clouding after a day of use.
+rep to you all


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beanscene*
> 
> thanks everyone, i will tell you my results and upload pics when its all running.
> new clear tubing and green pastel should ship today or tomorrow and hopefully be here by the end of the week.
> wish i could find 7/16ID 5/8OD tubing in Australia to go with my compression fittings that wasn't Primochill. I am not looking forward to my tubing clouding after a day of use.
> +rep to you all


I could only find that size tubing from Gammods in XSPC original tubing.

But have you tried Pirtek or some where like that?


----------



## Mayhem

Now all we need to do is create a tube res just like this ,,,,,,, How ever i dont have them kind of resorces to hand


----------



## PhantomTaco

Hey I have a quick question about the Pastel range: I'm currently using the Mint Green (looks amazing btw!) and was wondering if you can use any kind of filter to filter out any gunk that may be in the coolant? Love your products guys!


----------



## Mayhem

Filter are a bad idea that makes problems worse not better. You are in a closed loop system and putting a filters in such a system makes it worse than ever. If some thing is going to block it will block no matter what you do.

No closed loop system is 100% maintenance free and never will be. All you can do if empty out the fluids once in a while and run it though a coffee filter to remove the platersizer build up. Rinse your system out and check you blocks, then refill.

if you would like maintenance free then go for a heat sink and fan.


----------



## Kerelm

can some one quickly let me know why you cant run the Aurora dyes 24/7?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Mayhem, that RGB res. setup looks awesome.

If you guys get to the stage of selling them please try to get them to Australia.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Once I can afford the Exchange rate and delivery fees to import my WC components from the US ... I will definitely be going with pastel white ... it looks amazing ...

Will Aurora work in the Swiftech Microres ?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Once I can afford the Exchange rate and delivery fees to import my WC components from the US ... I will definitely be going with pastel white ... it looks amazing ...
> Will Aurora work in the Swiftech Microres ?


yes it works perfect.


----------



## Mayhem

Weve been asked if we can copy this liquid by Fluid XP more than a few times, how ever we dont feel we need to copy it










Any way if you would like to make it you self you can use UV Yellow / Green + Red dye that is all that is needed. nothing more nothing less.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Filter are a bad idea that makes problems worse not better. You are in a closed loop system and putting a filters in such a system makes it worse than ever. If some thing is going to block it will block no matter what you do.
> No closed loop system is 100% maintenance free and never will be. All you can do if empty out the fluids once in a while and run it though a coffee filter to remove the platersizer build up. Rinse your system out and check you blocks, then refill.
> if you would like maintenance free then go for a heat sink and fan.


Sorry I should've been more clear, I just started using it a month ago but I've made some changes to my loop and will be re tubing. Just to be safe I also was thinking about running my liquid through a filter once before I put it back in the loop is all.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh if you going to clean you system out use a coffee filter. We do this now and then when cleaning a system out for long term testing of fluids.

Just grab a coffee filter set from you local supermarket and pour it back into the bottle it came with then reuse. This trick is all so excellent to re use Aurora after its done its job. Once its been though the filter the pearl is removed and you end up with a usable normal liquid. if you say have 1 ltr of aurora add a extra 25% Di or our ultra Pure H20 water to it and it becomes X1.


----------



## iandroo888

anyone know a good "Recipe" for a nice blood red color with the dyes? i have a 10ml bottle of the red and 10ml bottle of the blue that just arrived today


----------



## Mayhem

Make up the red till its a bright red.
Take 1 drop of blue add it to 100mls of water.
Now carefully add the mix to the red until you get the colour you need.

sorted !!!!!


----------



## kcuestag

I have Mayhems Extreme Biocide but I am not using it right now, using a silver kill coil.

I'd prefer using the biocide, but I wonder if it would be compatible with my blocks, pump, rad and reservoir?

Here is what I use:

- EK Supreme HF Plexi
- 2x Aquacomputer Aquagrafx GTX680
- EK DCP 4.0
- Magicool Triple 180 (540mm) radiator
- Magicool plexi reservoir (Looks the same as that one but gray instead of black in the top/bottom closures. Can't find the exact one on the net, it was a gift from an OCN member.

Would it be 100% safe to use the Mayhems Extreme Biocide considering all those things used in my loop?


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Make up the red till its a bright red.
> Take 1 drop of blue add it to 100mls of water.
> Now carefully add the mix to the red until you get the colour you need.
> sorted !!!!!


thx !


----------



## Mayhem

@kcuestag EK recommend you use a full premix how ever if you keep the PH of the liquid around the 6.8 to 7.5 i see no reason why you could not use the biocide extreme.

We personally have not found any problems how ever if you equipment is under warranty you "may" invalidate the warranty using biocide extreme. This is the only reasonable advise i can give you ref EK products that contain any plating.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @kcuestag EK recommend you use a full premix how ever if you keep the PH of the liquid around the 6.8 to 7.5 i see no reason why you could not use the biocide extreme.
> We personally have not found any problems how ever if you equipment is under warranty you "may" invalidate the warranty using biocide extreme. This is the only reasonable advise i can give you ref EK products that contain any plating.


Thank you.


----------



## beanscene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh if you going to clean you system out use a coffee filter. We do this now and then when cleaning a system out for long term testing of fluids.
> Just grab a coffee filter set from you local supermarket and pour it back into the bottle it came with then reuse. This trick is all so excellent to re use Aurora after its done its job. Once its been though the filter the pearl is removed and you end up with a usable normal liquid. if you say have 1 ltr of aurora add a extra 25% Di or our ultra Pure H20 water to it and it becomes X1.


That is the most awesome advice ever. Great to know that once the aurora is kaput we can still reuse the purple coolant!


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beanscene*
> 
> That is the most awesome advice ever. Great to know that once the aurora is kaput we can still reuse the purple coolant!


Your welcome Aurora is based on X1 with the pearl. So by removing the pearl and watering down the Aurora after use it literately is the same product (with a few extras to stop the pearl from causing an issue). We have tried to keep every thing comparable so that aurora isn't waisted. It would be nice to have all this info on the bottles but alas the bottles are not 1 foot log and it all doesn't fit on there.


----------



## somebadlemonade

you could always put the url of a info page on the bottle


----------



## Mayhem

te URL is on the bottle lol.


----------



## Rickles

So... I think I am pretty close to cracking this UV purple. I have a ton of UV pink, probably close to 15 drops, 2 drops of Deep purple and like 4 drops of UV clear/blue. I will try to take some pictures tonight. I might be able to get it a little more purple-r but I also don't want to push it too far into blue.








GET EXCITED BOYS AND GIRLS


----------



## ugotd8

Approx ETA on the improved Aurora ?


----------



## Mayhem

@Rickles you do know UK pink stains like mad !!! and i really mean like mad ....

@ugotd8 it wont be for a few months we have all ready changed the mixture how ever it will need to filter though our resellers. Atm its kinda like version 1.02. You will know if you have the new versions as if you shake it like mad it will froth up a small amount but will settle back down really quickly. These new versions have been going out from me since last month how ever they will take time to filter though the resellers.


----------



## GoodInk

You website is telling me you no longer ship to the US when I try to check out.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> You website is telling me you no longer ship to the US when I try to check out.


I think US sales are now done through Performance PCs:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_381_1071_915


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Make up the red till its a bright red.
> Take 1 drop of blue add it to 100mls of water.
> Now carefully add the mix to the red until you get the colour you need.
> sorted !!!!!


Thanks, many need this... Should be a recipe section on the front of this post....









+1 REP!


----------



## DinaAngel

im using Mayhems Ice Dragon Nano Fluid, was quite shocked how well it is, great work mayhem!


----------



## Rickles

Yea, UV pink stains something awful. Also after about a day it is back to pink...







Maybe its time to just drop some UV blue in there and call it quits.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> You website is telling me you no longer ship to the US when I try to check out.
> 
> 
> 
> I think US sales are now done through Performance PCs:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_381_1071_915
Click to expand...

I really hope not, PPC's will never see my money again.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Thanks, many need this... Should be a recipe section on the front of this post....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 REP!


I made added red to my loop until I had the redness I wanted, then instead of mixing the blue with 100 mils of water, I Just decided to add 1 drop of blue and WHAM! my whole loop went dark purple in a split second, was pretty damn cool but I Had to redrain because it was purple instead of red haha.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Thanks, many need this... Should be a recipe section on the front of this post....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 REP!
> 
> 
> 
> I made added red to my loop until I had the redness I wanted, then instead of mixing the blue with 100 mils of water, I Just decided to add 1 drop of blue and WHAM! my whole loop went dark purple in a split second, was pretty damn cool but I Had to redrain because it was purple instead of red haha.
Click to expand...

LOL, that blue does a lot very fast. The second batch of blood red I made I diluted the blue with about a half gallon of water and one drop so I could get more control over the color. I think on my first try I used the 1Lt of water with one drop of blue and I over did it and got that nice grape color. It can be tricky getting it just right in the res compared to the tubing.


----------



## iandroo888

i got the color i wanted in my reservoir but cuz of my tubing being cloudy, it made it purplish ;_; time for new tubing soon


----------



## Rickles

As close to UV purple as I am going to get. Don't want it turning to blue.


----------



## GoodInk

Looks like a light purple to me


----------



## Mayhem

@GoodInk we ship to USA but we check most the order there manually, you need to send a email direct to [email protected] that way we can price it up correctly and do all the necessaries customs stuff. And yep PPCs is our main reseller over there whom were very happy with how ever a few others are all so looking into stocking our stuff.

@Rickles that is a good purple well done. better than what ive got it anyway.

my main rig is down atm so i cannot get to my email until shes back up and running again







.


----------



## NewHighScore

I got the last 3 in Canada.







Going over to me mama's house to pick it up as I ordered it to her house. Moving real soon and didn't want to risk losing the package in the move.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Thread cleaned.
Please keep personal issues to PMs rather than posting them in the forums.


----------



## Mayhem

sorry


----------



## Rickles

any ideas to get purple-r


----------



## Mayhem

@Rickles honestly you've done a better job than me. that is really good work you have done there. It will be interesting to see the long term effects and out come of making that.


----------



## Rickles

if you want I can post some pictures with out the cathodes on. While it looks pretty nice under UV, it looks like a rotten peach under normal light.


----------



## iandroo888

dang it.. xD purplish became purple hahaha now i have purple >< oops on too much blue ... took a while to get that color.. hm


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> dang it.. xD purplish became purple hahaha now i have purple >< oops on too much blue ... took a while to get that color.. hm


Post a picture, are you trying to make blood red? I love me some purple


----------



## shremi

Mayhem

I recently purchased some white pastel concentrate can I use just distilled water ????? I really live far so that's why I didn't order your ultra pure water...

I also have some clear/uv dye can you tell me how much should I add to 1.5L that my loop takes ???

Thanks


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Post a picture, are you trying to make blood red? I love me some purple


lol yeah was trying to get blood red.. XD it was perfect in the res.. but i think im overestimating the pump i have so took a while to "mix" =3 lol

tried taking a picture but picture makes it lighter than it is in person.. its like a medium purple.. not dark not light..

*edit*

used my DSLR. here we go









w/o orange in picture









w/ orange in picture

its seems a little more red in the picture.. but its more towards purple in person... tried to make it so the purple stands out more to try to get it as close to as in-person as possible.. kind of hard

stupid me







forgot i could take off the faceplate of the res


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Mayhem
> I recently purchased some white pastel concentrate can I use just distilled water ????? I really live far so that's why I didn't order your ultra pure water...
> I also have some clear/uv dye can you tell me how much should I add to 1.5L that my loop takes ???
> Thanks


Yes it should say on the bottle just add either ours or Di water.







(. You don't need to use our water just get decent DI.


----------



## bleeps

Mayhem, by DI do you mean deionized water or distilled water? Is there a difference?


----------



## Mayhem

either will do distilled is better than deionized but it wont make much difference once its been in you loop. The reason why we make Ultra Pure is because here in the UK our deionized is rubbish and is about as good as tap water.


----------



## bleeps

Great, thanks. Just ordered some Pastel White!


----------



## GoodInk

Does the pastel concentrate have the biocides and corrosion inhibitors still? Or is that with just the pre-mix?


----------



## Rickles

well mick, it seems that I am not quite there yet. Its shifted back to a UV pink. I would guess that it is due to the UV clear getting diluted. My awesome purple is gone. Might flush and try with a UV blue base instead of UV pink.


----------



## Tom114

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> either will do distilled is better than deionized but it wont make much difference once its been in you loop. The reason why we make Ultra Pure is because here in the UK our deionized is rubbish and is about as good as tap water.


I planning on building a loop, I am waiting for the parts right now. But I can only find demineralized water. On the front it said distilled but on the back demineralized. Is that ok too or should I look for something else.


----------



## Mayhem

@GoodInk concentrates contain ever thing same as the premix.

@Rickles thats a shame what was the mix you used before and we will see if we can replicate it here.

@Tom114 go to you local chemist and ask there you will have a better chance of getting decent stuff,


----------



## Rickles

it was probably 5 drops of uv pink : 3 drops uv blue : 1 drop deep purple. I think this is what happened last time before I flushed too, before I turned it too blue. The UV blue just doesn't seem to have the staying power to keep the loop purple and it just turns to pink. It has essentially swapped colors now. In reg light it is purple and in UV it is that peach brown color.

Looks very similar to a blood red gone bad


----------



## Mayhem

haha. ill take a look at it when i get some time as i have so unrealised colours we haven't fished tested yet. you never you your idea could work on these.


----------



## Mayhem

Stuff im working on early preview.

Once i get time ill knock up a proper video..


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Stuff im working on early preview.
> Once i get time ill knock up a proper video..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm really hoping this will be a 24/7 coolant... This will go with my Gunmetal Switch perfectly....


----------



## beanscene

....


----------



## steelkevin

EDIT: nevermind


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Liquidmetal coolant ->




Vid of just some of the newer stuff were working on to go with the pics.


----------



## Cord78




----------



## Reglar

Pastel pink at work, wiring is a mess because I am not done, but really loving the color.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Pastel pink at work, wiring is a mess because I am not done, but really loving the color.


That color looks SLICK man, bit more like purple/violet then pink but I like it nonetheless

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## DinaAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> That color looks SLICK man, bit more like purple/violet then pink but I like it nonetheless
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Omg omg omg, Meee wants!!!!!


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> That color looks SLICK man, bit more like purple/violet then pink but I like it nonetheless
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


I'd like the formula for that


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Pastel pink at work, wiring is a mess because I am not done, but really loving the color.


Looks great. I'm wondering if I did that my girlfriend would hate me and my computer that much less for spending all this cash!


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Pastel pink at work, wiring is a mess because I am not done, but really loving the color.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice. The Pastel's look the best, I'm waiting on a Deep Red Pastel to be released. Beautiful Rig...


----------



## Hitokiri Battousai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Stuff im working on early preview.
> Once i get time ill knock up a proper video..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


that looks epic do you have more color's planned? as if not can i request something that looks like molten steel that should be really nice looking if its possible


----------



## iMica

Just got my loop done with light red pastel and red dye. Not super happy used a whole thing of red dye still pretty pink so im ordering another thing of dye tonight


----------



## Willhemmens

You used a whole Red Dye? Wow.


----------



## iMica

One drop at a time to lmao toook foreeeeeeeeever


----------



## Rickles

Just ordered some pastel white. Got a nzxt hue. Not sure if I should keep it white or make it purple


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> Just got my loop done with light red pastel and red dye. Not super happy used a whole thing of red dye still pretty pink so im ordering another thing of dye tonight


Can you take a pic? I have the light red on the way and not much red dye left, I'm wanting to make it more of a red, red too.


----------



## corysti

Heres the pastel white...Im thinking about trying orange out or maybe a bright blue...Any suggestions on what dye I would need to get like a baby blue?


----------



## iMica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Can you take a pic? I have the light red on the way and not much red dye left, I'm wanting to make it more of a red, red too.


Sorry not best quality lol phone, but yea thats a whole thing of red dye drop by drop.


This is the color im going for, my old loop with primochill uv red.


----------



## Mayhem

The orange were working on at the moment how ever to get a nice blue you will need just the bue dye and nothing more. if you trying to colour match the bord it may take a little more dye than 1 bottle though.

If you after basically a kick ass in your face red give me a few days and ill come up with a answer for you.


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The orange were working on at the moment how ever to get a nice blue you will need just the bue dye and nothing more. if you trying to colour match the bord it may take a little more dye than 1 bottle though.
> If you after basically a kick ass in your face red give me a few days and ill come up with a answer for you.


im not sure if the blue comment was to me but I would be interested in the orange as well if I could get a really bright orange like the fans...Let me know when your done I will buy and see if it works for me


----------



## beanscene

Got new tubing in the mail today, cracked open my bottle of mint green pastel and got it running. So happy












.


----------



## DinaAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Pastel pink at work, wiring is a mess because I am not done, but really loving the color.


how can i get that color with my white mayhem pastel? id soo want the same color, like perfect same


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beanscene*
> 
> Got new tubing in the mail today, cracked open my bottle of mint green pastel and got it running. So happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That is an amazing color!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beanscene*
> 
> Got new tubing in the mail today, cracked open my bottle of mint green pastel and got it running. So happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Maybe Coke a Cola should contact Mayhems.

That green would look fantastic for a sports re-hydration drink.

I would be one to buy it on color alone.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Can you take a pic? I have the light red on the way and not much red dye left, I'm wanting to make it more of a red, red too.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry not best quality lol phone, but yea thats a whole thing of red dye drop by drop.
> 
> 
> This is the color im going for, my old loop with primochill uv red.
Click to expand...

Thanks, looks like I'm going to need more red, or what ever Mayhem's comes up with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The orange were working on at the moment how ever to get a nice blue you will need just the bue dye and nothing more. if you trying to colour match the bord it may take a little more dye than 1 bottle though.
> 
> 
> 
> If you after basically a kick ass in your face red give me a few days and ill come up with a answer for you.


Yes please


----------



## Reglar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DinaAngel*
> 
> how can i get that color with my white mayhem pastel? id soo want the same color, like perfect same


I used Mayhem's Pink Pastel, so came premixed at that color. Maybe the Mayhem guys could tell you how to get from your white pastel to the pink. Personally I would drop some of the white pastel in a glass and start adding red drops to see how it looks. You might be able to get there with that approach.


----------



## NewHighScore

Hi guys. I got my Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow in the mail yesterday. Super excited! I have a question. Is there any precautionary steps I should take specifically to clean out my loop as to not contaminate the colour at all? The pump was used in a different loop with purple dye before but everything else is new. What should I run in there to clean it out perfectly?


----------



## iMica

I was wondering when I add more dye can I just add it into the loop or do I have to drain?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> Hi guys. I got my Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow in the mail yesterday. Super excited! I have a question. Is there any precautionary steps I should take specifically to clean out my loop as to not contaminate the colour at all? The pump was used in a different loop with purple dye before but everything else is new. What should I run in there to clean it out perfectly?


I bought my loop's components second hand from someone who'd been running red dye in them for 2 years without any maintenance but draining once in a while.
I used vinegar (the cleaning kind, not the one you'd eat/drink) and DI water. For some components I used 1/3 vinegar for 2/3 DI water and for others I used 1/2 of each. Just let it sit for as long as you think necessary. Once you think it's clean rinse the components with DI water (you can let stuff sit over night or while at school).

I wish I'd took photos but although only DI water didn't show any red when I first attempted to clean them (with only DI water... yes...) with the vinegar I swear I ended up with a loads of Blood Red liquid.

Btw, I haven't forgot about posting photos, it just took me a while to clean/rinse everything and order/receive tubing and fittings (plus two Yate Loons, "1fan connector to two splitters"...). I'm terrible at taking photos but I tried my best (even lifted the PC and moved it to have enough light). I'll post the less terrible ones later







.


----------



## Rickles

Ordered some pastel white, custom pastel purple here I come!


----------



## steelkevin

That's a bottle of Pastel Blue Berry Concentrate + 750ml of DI water + a full bottle of Blue dye which I'd never been able to have if it weren't for michael









Oh and just because I feel like I have to (almost felt bad about dying such a beauty):


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Willhemmens

Looks cool! Not sure about the tiny tubing and Noctua fans but each to their own, also that tube that goes radiator to radiator looks a bit tight..


----------



## corysti

What size tubing you run Will?


----------



## steelkevin

I'll quote myself from the watercooling gallery thread:
Quote:


> The bottom to top rad tubing is too short in my opinion, I imagined it a bit looser and the reservoir to pump one wasn't supposed to touch that fitting. But since I'll be changing my rig sooner or later I figured I wouldn't bother fixing those right now and they could wait.
> I've cut a 60x60mm square off my (very) old Razer Goliathus Control mousemat (never by that, it's terrible except as an anti vibration, Razer's Scarab mat is amazing though).
> The SSD is right behind the HDD sort of hanging mid air, none are attached our anything, can't say I hear the HDD's vibrations more than the GPU's though so I'll leave them that way for the time being.
> 
> Mayhems Blue Berry 250Ml concentrate + 750Ml DI water + 10Ml Mayhems Blue Dye btw
> and 8mm ID / 11mm OD clearflex 60 tubing.


200€ was my budget, thicker tubing would've meant bigger compression fittings and those would've cost me from 3 times the price to 5.

EDIT: and you might need this to understand the Hardware choices:

Rads+WB+Pump+Top+Reservoir+4 Noctuas cost me 150€ second hand.
Tubing+Yate Loons+fittings+cables cost me 45€.

The Yate Loons are up top but I don't think you can tell from those photos.


----------



## Rickles

what res is that in there?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> what res is that in there?


Took me forever to find out.

It's actually an old Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex. Barely any traces of it on the internet. The one they're currently selling has the word "pro" added at the end of the product's name.
The stands are from EK, the seller told me the stock plexi ones just broke and he had to replace them.


----------



## Willhemmens

1/2" ID 3/4" OD for the most part. I bought a couple of 3\8" ID - 5\8" OD fittings and some tubing to use with the Fusion thermo waterblock on my motherboard. EK are making a custom waterblock for the motherboard so I can go back to 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing.


----------



## iMica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The orange were working on at the moment how ever to get a nice blue you will need just the bue dye and nothing more. if you trying to colour match the bord it may take a little more dye than 1 bottle though.
> If you after basically a kick ass in your face red give me a few days and ill come up with a answer for you.


I'll hold off on buying the dye and see what you come up with:thumb:


----------



## JohnnyEars

I'm currently using X1 uv blue, but I've got some upgrades waiting to do and am looking at all these cracking new fluids just trying to decide which way to go.
Mods I'm doing are, dumping xspc x20 and fitting a D5 with 150mm Phobya Ballancer res. Also I've got some masterkleer 1/2 3/4 clear u/v blue hose.
I seem to be drooling about the metalic blue - but still think pastel blue looks amazing.

Is there any known problems with these newer Mayhems coolants, using the masterkleer that i've listed above?

I realise the metalics are pre-production, and probably not for long term use.. but if you need a test rig..


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I bought my loop's components second hand from someone who'd been running red dye in them for 2 years without any maintenance but draining once in a while.
> I used vinegar (the cleaning kind, not the one you'd eat/drink) and DI water. For some components I used 1/3 vinegar for 2/3 DI water and for others I used 1/2 of each. Just let it sit for as long as you think necessary. Once you think it's clean rinse the components with DI water (you can let stuff sit over night or while at school).
> I wish I'd took photos but although only DI water didn't show any red when I first attempted to clean them (with only DI water... yes...) with the vinegar I swear I ended up with a loads of Blood Red liquid.
> Btw, I haven't forgot about posting photos, it just took me a while to clean/rinse everything and order/receive tubing and fittings (plus two Yate Loons, "1fan connector to two splitters"...). I'm terrible at taking photos but I tried my best (even lifted the PC and moved it to have enough light). I'll post the less terrible ones later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks a bunch. +rep


----------



## snef

Hi

Possible to make a bloody red with white or light red pastel

I know with x1, but i think a blood red pastel will be a relly good color

Thanks


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> 
> Possible to make a bloody red with white or light red pastel
> 
> I know with x1, but i think a blood red pastel will be a relly good color
> 
> Thanks


http://www.overclock.net/t/1272072/is-this-true-about-mayhems-dyes-so-suprised/10#post_17521285
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> this blood red good enough for you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with bright light it doesn't look as dark


----------



## beanscene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Maybe Coke a Cola should contact Mayhems.
> That green would look fantastic for a sports re-hydration drink.
> I would be one to buy it on color alone.


Hahah for anyone who has seen the movie Idiocracy, all I can think of is "It's got electrolytes!"
Sports drink for PCs?


----------



## Mayhem

Weve done a mobile vid as per requests from too many users. Seems mobile are the way to view YT now a days .....

Changed Music, Shorted the vid.




I must be getting old only just bought a android mobile a few weeks ago.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1272072/is-this-true-about-mayhems-dyes-so-suprised/10#post_17521285


thanks

but what dye i need and how many drop for how many white pastel coolant?


----------



## Goofy Goober

when using Mayhems Pastel (light red) in a loop with 2 gpus, i can use both serial and parallel connection between the 2 gpu blocks?
or it's recommended the serial one because it has more pressure than the parallel?

now i'm using serial connection with Pastel red from 6 months without problem, and i would try parallel to see if make any difference in temperatures and flow rate.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beanscene*
> 
> Hahah for anyone who has seen the movie Idiocracy, all I can think of is "It's got electrolytes!"
> Sports drink for PCs?


Brawndo! It's got electrolytes.

On that note food dye is already horrible for you, I would never drink anything that looks like any of Mayhem's dyes. LOL


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1272072/is-this-true-about-mayhems-dyes-so-suprised/10#post_17521285
> 
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> but what dye i need and how many drop for how many white pastel coolant?
Click to expand...

I don't know, you'll need to get with Mayhem.


----------



## Cord78

hoping someone here can give me some help.

i saw a post somewhere about an ocean blue green mix you can do with mayhems dyes. i already have the clear/UV blue in my system and while it looks phenomenal in the dark, its just not the same in the light.

Has anyone tried to do a mix to get that ocean blue/green colour that looks great in normal light and still has that UV effect in the dark?


----------



## Mayhem

@ Cord78 Ocean blue isnt easy to make but possible.

Ocean blue is a mix of UV Yellow / green Dye & Blue Dye .. Or Green Dye & Blue Dye .. or UV Green Dye & Blue Dye

It can be made with all our pre mixes or water alone


----------



## Cord78

hmmm

might be worth trying out to see which mixture works best. Thanks for the quick response!


----------



## Rickles

any recommendations for an internal res, and no I don't like the frozenQ ones.


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> any recommendations for an internal res, and no I don't like the frozenQ ones.


There are some nice ones that work as a pump top if you want to go that route. I think bitspower and EK make a nice range of sizes. Alphacool cyclone ones have an interesting swirl look to the fluid which I think would be awesome with Aurora but don't know anybody who has used one. . Swifttech maelstorm looks awesome if you want a bay res.


----------



## Mayhem

you can mount any tube res straight on top of a pump using a male to male converter. We take the EK ones and Phobya ones and turn them upside down.


----------



## Rickles

I have a dual bay res, I really just wanted a tube res for looks, I went with an EK 250 advanced as it should be a good fit in my switch 810. Got to have something to show off some pastel purple in right??


----------



## wermad

Ordered Emerald Green and Deep Blue. Not sure which one I will end up using. New build is green with blue themed.


----------



## Goofy Goober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Goober*
> 
> when using Mayhems Pastel (light red) in a loop with 2 gpus, i can use both serial and parallel connection between the 2 gpu blocks?
> or it's recommended the serial one because it has more pressure than the parallel?
> now i'm using serial connection with Pastel red from 6 months without problem, and i would try parallel to see if make any difference in temperatures and flow rate.


bump


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Goober*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Goofy Goober*
> 
> when using Mayhems Pastel (light red) in a loop with 2 gpus, i can use both serial and parallel connection between the 2 gpu blocks?
> or it's recommended the serial one because it has more pressure than the parallel?
> now i'm using serial connection with Pastel red from 6 months without problem, and i would try parallel to see if make any difference in temperatures and flow rate.
> 
> 
> 
> bump
Click to expand...

What blocks?


----------



## Goofy Goober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> What blocks?


the blocks are 2 EVGA Hydrocopper 2 (580GTX)

they are high restriction blocks, so the parallel configuration is a good option i think.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just wondering, If anyone could help.

I am wanting to create a UV reactive Pastel Blue.

I have one 250ml concentrate X1- UV Clear Blue and two 250ml concentrate Pastel Blue.

My loop takes about 2 liters of fluid.

So if I add these all to 250ml of DI water, would this work and be effective?

or

Do I need more UV Clear Blue?


----------



## JohnnyEars

Definately need another litre of something to make up your 2 litres


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just wondering, If anyone could help.
> 
> I am wanting to create a UV reactive Pastel Blue.
> 
> I have one 250ml concentrate X1- UV Clear Blue and two 250ml *concentrate* Pastel Blue.
> 
> My loop takes about 2 liters of fluid.
> 
> So if I add these all to 250ml of DI water, would this work and be effective?
> 
> or
> 
> Do I need more UV Clear Blue?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Definately need another litre of something to make up your 2 litres


One 250ml concentrate = 1L mixed


----------



## Mayhem

Seems like a long way around it, you could have got UV pastel white and Blue dye ... job done.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you after basically a kick ass in your face red give me a few days and ill come up with a answer for you.


Any word on this yet?


----------



## Mayhem

not atm.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Seems like a long way around it, you could have got UV pastel white and Blue dye ... job done.


Australia's only stockist (which I know of) TheKoolRoom doesn't stock it.

So I thought I would have to do it the hard way.

I would of even considered using Pastel Blue with UV Clear Blue dye, but they have not had it in stock for quite some time.

Also, is there any danger of running the concentrates not 100% diluted to their recommended dilution?


----------



## Mayhem

I don't deal with stock to resellers any more just the developing and manufacturing and as things progress im slowly moving away from support and will be handing that over eventually to support staff as im too personally involved







. Due to Mayhems growing as such a rapid rate we need to expand to keep up with it. Ill still be the place were most of the answers come from how ever it will be though people who can spell







... hahaha so i wont have to deal with bad rep's, testers or trolls any more


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I don't deal with stock to resellers any more just the developing and manufacturing and as things progress im slowly moving away from support and will be handing that over eventually to support staff as im too personally involved
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Due to Mayhems growing as such a rapid rate we need to expand to keep up with it. Ill still be the place were most of the answers come from how ever it will be though people who can spell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... hahaha so i wont have to deal with bad rep's, testers or trolls any more












You've been very helpful with my questions and my comparison. I too have troubles with my gramm*e*r


----------



## GoodInk

I ordered light red from Auquatuning, but the bottle says red. I'm happy to say it looks red and not pink







It is very close to MDPC's red sleeving







BTW if you put some nice red LED's in your case the tubing looks like its glowing red







Now that I know this, I'm going to redo my tubing to get it in the light more then I'll post some pics.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh if you inform them we dropped the light red and renamed it red and adjusted it to red haha..











































Mayhems Pastel Jet Black - out in the next week or so. Concentrate will follow soon.


----------



## DinaAngel

noone wanted to help me ??
i got mayhem white dragon nano coolant, and i got uv pink dye from mayhem, how can i mix to get really good pink?, the pink seems quite dark more purple, they didnt seem to mix well from 5 drops


----------



## Mayhem

"ice dragon cooling fluid". You need to add quite alot of pink to get a pink colour. the bottle should say UV pink if it doesn't you haven't got the right bottle.










Thats what the bottle should look like

if its looks like this (colour of the bottle)










then you have UV purple not pink and it will look purple.


----------



## DinaAngel

ohhh thanks!! but it does say pink but its very purple, is it just very consentrated?
i got 0.8 liter of the coolant atm, should one bottle of uv pink be enaugh?


----------



## Fuganater

Why don't you just use Pastel Pink?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34083


----------



## DinaAngel

awww i didnt think of it when i bought it really, thats the reason. i hafto buy it from the UK, i used specialtech.
that pink looks Great! but UV is something i should want to have, maybe it looks best with white in day and in night its pink


----------



## Mayhem

The only problem with UV Pink is it stains like mad. Its the worst colour for doing it. But yeh we do a pastel pink all ready in UV. I cannot post a link but if you get stuck you can all ways buy direct.


----------



## DinaAngel

ohhh, i might wanto buy next week, ill not mix then i dont want it to be coated inside parts and so.
direct?, like directly from uu?

thanks alot u guys!!









is it possible u could made a coolant tht is black during day and pink glowing during night ?
if i can next week then i might have money if u could

iv tought of maybe gotten 690 waterblock later closer to winter, i think black during day like ur jet, and glowing pink during night would be awesome


----------



## Mayhem

In a vain attempt at taking photos Mayhems Pastel Ice White and Mayhems Jet Black we came across a problem when using black or white back grounds. haha one or the other would disappear. So here is a Quick Shoddy photo with a green back ground of Both the colours together.










But here is a nice one suggest a few moments ago










@DinaAngel Its doesn't matter if you get our pastel pink it will still stain you equipment. no matter whos pink you use it will stain. Pink is notarius for staining and all ways has been and all ways will do.


----------



## Rickles

The best way to hide pink stains is add more pink, or purple


----------



## sahando

Hey guys. Currently running my own mix of blood red (looks great) but im wanting to try blood red UV, is anyone able to post some pics of blood red (uv) under both normal light and uv light, so i can get an idea of how it looks? greatly appreciate it.


----------



## 10speedr

6 drops of deep purple. Love the color.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10speedr*
> 
> 6 drops of deep purple. Love the color.


Which tube is that?


----------



## 10speedr

Im using a mix of Durelene pvc 1/2id 5/8od "sli bridge" and Tygon plasticizer free 1/2id 5/8od.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10speedr*
> 
> Im using a mix of Durelene pvc 1/2id 5/8od "sli bridge" and Tygon plasticizer free 1/2id 5/8od.


Nice







Any clouding issues?

Just got my Deep Blue and Emerald Green. Will do some comparison testing this weekend.


----------



## Mayhem

Couple of vids ill make more as i gain confidence (i realy don't have that much pmsl)

How to make Pastel Gray




How to make Blood Red Pt-1




I know there not that good how ever never talked in one before.... but they give you the basic idea of how to make different colours.
The next one will be how to make Deep Blood Red with pastel colours ...


----------



## sahando

Cheers for the vids







. Community appreciates it, im off to order some UV PINK!!!.


----------



## Fuganater

Nice videos!

Are you hands like permanently stained? lol


----------



## Mayhem

80% the time yeh haha.


----------



## Michalius

Not only are your posts extremely helpful and amazing, but they get me to buy more of your stuff. I can't imagine a more mutually beneficial situation.

That grey is going in a LD PC-V7 with aquacomputer rads, blocks, and gadgets. I've been going back and forth on what to do about the tubing/coolant. You have fixed it for me.


----------



## GoodInk

Great videos!! You need to put these on the OP


----------



## Mayhem

Ill put a link in to each post on the front post just uploading the 2nd part to blood red.

Got a whole slurry of mixing guides to do lol.


----------



## Mayhem

Another video final one for a few days

How to make Pastel Blood Red




lol my scene fell down haha


----------



## iMica

I should have bought white pastel instead of light red lol.


----------



## lowfat

OMG grey finally.


----------



## Hitokiri Battousai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Couple of vids ill make more as i gain confidence (i realy don't have that much pmsl)
> How to make Pastel Gray
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to make Blood Red Pt-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know there not that good how ever never talked in one before.... but they give you the basic idea of how to make different colours.
> The next one will be how to make Deep Blood Red with pastel colours ...


that makes life easier also will XT-1 be available at like performance-pcs later or is it just your store? (as in the future i was gonna order some components from them and id be great if i could get everything i need but if i have to ill order directly from you )


----------



## Mayhem

Hi there the stock is going down to warehouse this week. I don't have any control who or what resellers buy in after that sorry







.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Great vids mr mayhem









I'm using X1 u/v blue.. If I were to change to pastel white, what would be the preferred flushing method?
I was wondering about the u/v, the dye and the vegetable base after watching your videos.

I've only had the X1 in a new loop for a couple of weeks and was also wondering if I can coffee filter the X1 and keep for possible use again in the future (hoses etc look as clean as the day I built it).


----------



## corysti

I bought a few things of pastel white for my build but i've decided that blue berry would look better. Is there any way there is a dye I can add to the white to get it to the blue berry color or maybe close?


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh you can coffee filter the X1 it will last about 1 year. You can all ways reuse it if its not been running its full life. Pastel lasts a lot longer because of the white in it as this basically kills any light and stops thing growing hence it has a much higher life span.

@corysti just add our blue dye you wont go wrong







.


----------



## corysti

Okay cool thanks.


----------



## Rickles

whipped up my pastel purple, looks sweeeeeeeeeeet!!!!!

Now just waiting on another water block and another res..


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> whipped up my pastel purple, looks sweeeeeeeeeeet!!!!!
> 
> Now just waiting on another water block and another res..


Pics?


----------



## iandroo888

just randomly came across a water purifying machine in research lab today (lol...) apparently i can get water almost > 99% free of contaminants/impurities.. similar to mayhems ultra pure h2o







weee... now to buy new tubing (duralene from sidewinder) and parts for a t-line and drain plug.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> just randomly came across a water purifying machine in research lab today (lol...) apparently i can get water almost > 99% free of contaminants/impurities.. similar to mayhems ultra pure h2o
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> weee... now to buy new tubing (duralene from sidewinder) and parts for a t-line and drain plug.


How much for the purifying machine?

Could ya link it at all?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> just randomly came across a water purifying machine in research lab today (lol...) apparently i can get water almost > 99% free of contaminants/impurities.. similar to mayhems ultra pure h2o
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> weee... now to buy new tubing (duralene from sidewinder) and parts for a t-line and drain plug.


Water here isn't potable (drinkable) so we have a water distiller in our home to use. Makes water cooling so much easier since I don't have to go out and buy distilled water


----------



## Goofy Goober

strange thing is happening to my loop with mayhems product.

in january i used bi-distilled water and mayhems red dye for a month or so, and when i flushed the loop the liquid that came out was more like purple than red.
mayhem advided me to clean everything in the loop (using bi-carb too) because the liquid could be acid and cause the red dye to turn purple.
i did this, but with no luck, after about two month red dye still became purplish, although after more time and the color was a "light purple".

after that i've clean the entire loop, again and again, and refilled the loop with mayhems Pastel Light Red 1LT and 200-300ml of Grape Red.

after five months, some days ago i've flushed the loop and the pastel that came out was, again, of a purple hue, like it was 100% Grape Red, not light red + grape.

i can't understand why after a thorough cleaning red continues to turn into purple


----------



## Mayhem

You have some thing in the loop causing this. It very well could be some thing in you rad that is changing the liquids Acidity. Have you tested the PH of the liquids. Red will lose it colour if the liquid is out of its range due to the acidity of the components.

Get some PH strips dip it in and take a reading.


----------



## Rickles

What are you using as a biocide?


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> How much for the purifying machine?
> Could ya link it at all?


lol dont think it will be affordable x_X its a pretty big machine. takes the DI water and filters it thru these huge filters..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You have some thing in the loop causing this. It very well could be some thing in you rad that is changing the liquids Acidity. Have you tested the PH of the liquids. Red will lose it colour if the liquid is out of its range due to the acidity of the components.
> Get some PH strips dip it in and take a reading.










gotta keep that in mind.. need pH strips... then again mine is already purple XD


----------



## Mayhem

Our water purifying system after several revisions cost us £2.200 (all in), how ever its not been pre bought it all been hand built by my self with some extra things added. How ever this week were getting a new pump that will take us from 500/600 Ltrs a day to 1,000 / 1,2000 Ltrs a day. How ever if our production goes up any more than this we will have to go for a industrial unit that can handle more but at the same level we need. Ive all ready worked out the costs of it and boy oh boy it isn't cheap by any means.


----------



## iandroo888

lol not surprising. the one we have is in the research labs of the biology department as well as the chemistry department. in some cases, we need the pure water for making gels for like gel electrophoresis or sds page, etc


----------



## Goofy Goober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You have some thing in the loop causing this. It very well could be some thing in you rad that is changing the liquids Acidity. Have you tested the PH of the liquids. Red will lose it colour if the liquid is out of its range due to the acidity of the components.
> Get some PH strips dip it in and take a reading.


ok i already have the strips from your biocide kit.
the test will be ok even with colored liquid like the pastel?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> What are you using as a biocide?


nothing, the pastel already have biocide in the mix.


----------



## Tom114

I'm looking for Deep blue dye but I can't find it in the netherlands without paying double the price for shipping and mayhems doesn't ship to the netherlands. Any suggestions?


----------



## Mayhem

We do ship there you just need to send us a email to [email protected] with your order,your address and we will get back to you with a price. Weve been shipping world wide for years.

On another note ALL YOUR WATER COOLING PUMPS SUCK .. hahahaha we got our new pump delivered today ROTFLMAO it was a little larger than expected


----------



## Michalius

I think that calls for a loop made out of nothing but 90 degree fittings. Smallest diameter possible.


----------



## Clockwerk

So I was looking around in your shop for a different dye color and noticed you had X1 Coolant and XT-1 Coolant, what's the difference? Under products only X1 is listed. Thanks


----------



## Mayhem

Check first post and read the info. XT-1 Glycol based X1 Vegetable extract based. there both very different products.


----------



## Shogon

Darn, just ordered some Pastel Yellow, and then I read this small detail lol.

Quote:


> Mayhems Pastel Coolant
> 
> Do not use Mayhems Pastel with Primochill tubing or Tygon tubing as Mayhems Pastel seems to react with it changing the colour of the tubing to a greenish colour. This is not the fault of Primochill, Tygon or Mayhems it is just a incompatibility issue. Pastel works fine with XSPC, Thermochill, Clear Flex, Masterclear and a few other brands.


I just started liking Tygon E-1000 tubing over PrimoChill lol.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Darn, just ordered some Pastel Yellow, and then I read this small detail lol.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems Pastel Coolant
> 
> Do not use Mayhems Pastel with Primochill tubing or Tygon tubing as Mayhems Pastel seems to react with it changing the colour of the tubing to a greenish colour. This is not the fault of Primochill, Tygon or Mayhems it is just a incompatibility issue. Pastel works fine with XSPC, Thermochill, Clear Flex, Masterclear and a few other brands.
> 
> 
> 
> I just started liking Tygon E-1000 tubing over PrimoChill lol.
Click to expand...

People are having really good results with Durelene, it's super cheap, almost as flexible as PrimoChill , no writing on the tubing.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/othertubing.html


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> People are having really good results with Durelene, it's super cheap, almost as flexible as PrimoChill , no writing on the tubing.
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/othertubing.html


I ordered 40' of that a few days ago. I'll do a post on how it performs with some pastel coolant.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> People are having really good results with Durelene, it's super cheap, almost as flexible as PrimoChill , no writing on the tubing.
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/othertubing.html
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered 40' of that a few days ago. I'll do a post on how it performs with some pastel coolant.
Click to expand...

I'm running it now for about a week, it's still looking good and I hope it stays that way for 6 months.


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Check first post and read the info. XT-1 Glycol based X1 Vegetable extract based. there both very different products.


Lol. My bad. Guess that's what I get for just skimming the website and jumping straight to here. Thanks. Does anybody on here run the X1 blue coolant or just normal blue dye? Every pic I can find when I search google is for the pastel.


----------



## Rickles

should have my build finally finished this weekend


----------



## JohnnyEars

I use X1 u/v blue, and I'm lovin it - Ice white pastel next definately










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Didn't Mayhems come out with a chameleon color mix already? I could have sworn I saw it somewhere in the water cooling board.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Didn't Mayhems come out with a chameleon color mix already? I could have sworn I saw it somewhere in the water cooling board.


Not for sale yet.


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> I use X1 u/v blue, and I'm lovin it - Ice white pastel next definately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for posting a pic. Ill have to check it when I get home since for some reason they don't always like loading on my work pc. How are temps with X1 compared to distilled water?


----------



## iandroo888

cool ! im getting duralene soon too ! maybe i should get more than 10' for storage


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockwerk*
> 
> Thanks for posting a pic. Ill have to check it when I get home since for some reason they don't always like loading on my work pc. How are temps with X1 compared to distilled water?


I've only been watercooling for a short while and I don't have any experience of other coolants, sorry


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Not for sale yet.


Was it ever established which colors it comes in?


----------



## Mayhem

@ProfeZZor X still under testing we come up with a few problems that need resolving ref the Manufacturing of the actual colour charge particles. this will take time to resolve.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> I ordered 40' of that a few days ago. I'll do a post on how it performs with some pastel coolant.


Can't wait to see how it looks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> People are having really good results with Durelene, it's super cheap, almost as flexible as PrimoChill , no writing on the tubing.
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/othertubing.html


Thank you for that sir, I shall go forth and order! You're not kidding about it being super cheap


----------



## wermad

A little disappointed in the Emerald green







. The Deep blue was awesome. Combination of both seems to yield some nice results too. Each sample is using 100ml of distilled water.

From left to right:

Deep Blue (1 drop), Deep Blue (1 drop) + Emerald Green (1 drop), Deep Blue (1 drop) + Emerald Green (2 drops), Emerald Green (2 drops), Emerald Green (1 drop)


----------



## jbmayes2000

Mayhem or anyone else here - do you have a photo of the x1 yellow/green in a loop? I like the yellow pastel but I want something more transparent and i'm finding just shots of it in a jar or in the bottle it LOOKS like a good yellow but I can't tell. Just trying to make sure the x1 yellow/green would be a close enough match for the msi mpower z77 board. Thanks in advance!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbmayes2000*
> 
> Mayhem or anyone else here - do you have a photo of the x1 yellow/green in a loop? I like the yellow pastel but I want something more transparent and i'm finding just shots of it in a jar or in the bottle it LOOKS like a good yellow but I can't tell. Just trying to make sure the x1 yellow/green would be a close enough match for the msi mpower z77 board. Thanks in advance!


This is very difficult to answer as there are tons of clear tube made by different manufacturers. Even the same brand and sku can yield slight variances between patch runs. That's why most show the colors in a clear container or from an unobstructed view (ie top view shot of a container). This will give you an idea. Also, the thickness of the tube will impact the overall in-person color. In my experience, thinner walled tube gives a clearer view than thicker. The disadvantage with thinner walled tube is that it can eaisly kink and you end up using a lot of angled fittings to plumb it up. Thicker tube is easier to bend but it obscures the view a bit. This may not answer your question but its something to consider as you don't want to have a specific expectation. as they say YMMV (*Y*our *M*illage *M*ay *V*ary).


----------



## iMica

Just got my 2nd red dye today going to try and make my pink, cherry red now









Hope I didnt spend 45 dollars on a pink dye


----------



## GoodInk

Wow, I have red hands now, I over filled my res







Talk about a mess







I'm just thankful it was pastel red and not pink UV.

Note to self, don't stay up 19 hours and then start messing with your rig.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Wow, I have red hands now, I over filled my res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Talk about a mess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just thankful it was pastel red and not pink UV.
> *Note to self, don't stay up 19 hours and then start messing with your rig.*


Been there, done that, results not pretty too









edit: R-E-D-R-U-M, R-E-D-R-U-M, ............


----------



## wermad

Sorry for the double post:

One more simple test in natural light. You can really see how nice the colors are. Making choice much harder *but*, my case is dark inside so the deep blue looks the best with minimal lighting.

Starting from top-left corner (clockwise): Deep Blue (2 drops), Deep Blue (2 drops) + Emerald Green (1 drop), Emerald Green (3 drops), Deep Blue (2 drops) + Emerald Green (2 drops):



The blue really gets the upper hand when using the same amounts. Maybe the Green needs to be a bit more concentrated but that's just mho.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh the emerald green is a light dye. Its nowhere near as concentrated as the other colours however its one of those dyes that you cannot concentrate down without causing some issues. Don't forget though we sent the new benchmark on concentrated dyes its not easy producing everything so concentrated and keeping it stable.


----------



## DinaAngel

hii, i got tygon hoses, um i use mayhem pastel, is this an issue, what will happen ??


----------



## jbmayes2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is very difficult to answer as there are tons of clear tube made by different manufacturers. Even the same brand and sku can yield slight variances between patch runs. That's why most show the colors in a clear container or from an unobstructed view (ie top view shot of a container). This will give you an idea. Also, the thickness of the tube will impact the overall in-person color. In my experience, thinner walled tube gives a clearer view than thicker. The disadvantage with thinner walled tube is that it can eaisly kink and you end up using a lot of angled fittings to plumb it up. Thicker tube is easier to bend but it obscures the view a bit. This may not answer your question but its something to consider as you don't want to have a specific expectation. as they say YMMV (*Y*our *M*illage *M*ay *V*ary).


I understand the variances. I think what i'm really trying to find is just the coolant in a rig. I don't need an EXACT match but if it's even close i'm going with it. Only thing I could find is a thread where Mayhem had posted in a different forum where he took apart his kids computer (which had the coolant i'm asking about in it) to show absolutely no build up in a GPU block. But I just saw drops and not really the loop. Just hoping for a sample photo thats all!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DinaAngel*
> 
> hii, i got tygon hoses, um i use mayhem pastel, is this an issue, what will happen ??


From the OP:
Quote:


> Do not use Mayhems Pastel with Primochill tubing or Tygon tubing as Mayhems Pastel seems to react with it changing the colour of the tubing to a greenish colour.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbmayes2000*
> 
> Mayhem or anyone else here - do you have a photo of the x1 yellow/green in a loop? I like the yellow pastel but I want something more transparent and i'm finding just shots of it in a jar or in the bottle it LOOKS like a good yellow but I can't tell. Just trying to make sure the x1 yellow/green would be a close enough match for the msi mpower z77 board. Thanks in advance!


I found a green on their FB page, still couldn't find a yellow.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> finally got my emerald green in the mail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check it out..


----------



## Mayhem

sunset yelow ->


















old pic of UV yellow / Green


----------



## Rickles

wow that old pic looks pretty cool


----------



## oblivion.sky

Blue berry pastel

and white pastel


----------



## sahando

After 2 months my red has turned ... purple? No idea why, nothing in the loop changed. I will be draining the loop next week when my gpu blocks come in and i will post pics. I have left over coolant from the initial mix and its color has not changed. However the coolant in the loop changed only very recently (less than 1 week). Deminiralised water + Mayhems red + blue + Liquid Utopia. I'm not to fussed, im just wondering what happaned. Anyone got any idea's?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sahando*
> 
> After 2 months my red has turned ... purple? No idea why, nothing in the loop changed. I will be draining the loop next week when my gpu blocks come in and i will post pics. I have left over coolant from the initial mix and its color has not changed. However the coolant in the loop changed only very recently (less than 1 week). Deminiralised water + Mayhems red + blue + Liquid Utopia. I'm not to fussed, im just wondering what happaned. Anyone got any idea's?
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Are you using all Crystal Links? Have you checked you ph levels?


----------



## sahando

Im using crystal links + duralene tubing, i havnt checked PH levels, i will check them soon.

What is a good PH to maintain?


----------



## GoodInk

You want to be at 7


----------



## Mayhem

As said to run red you need to maintain your system PH levels. Some rads we've been testing use solder that leaches acid into the system and this in turn makes red turn purple / pink. This is nothing to do with the dye but it is one hell of an indicator that you system is not correctly balanced.

If you would like a colour that can take such a hard life then your better going blue unless you sort out and flush you system correctly.


----------



## Rickles

You really weren't joking about the pink staining tubes, but I like how it looks now better in the stained tubes then the clear. Short clear one going into 250 res.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> 
> 
> You really weren't joking about the pink staining tubes, but I like how it looks now better in the stained tubes then the clear. Short clear one going into 250 res.


I thought you were using chameleon there for a sec.


----------



## Rickles

no, lol here is a picture of tube that was dyed with UV pink with some deep purple in it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> no, lol here is a picture of tube that was dyed with UV pink with some deep purple in it.


That might be plasticizing that has been colored by the dyed liquid. I had the same residue left when I was using the deep purple and a few types of clear tube. In the end, i just quit on clear tube and I'm using colored tube.

I'm just waiting on one final main component before i add a few drops of Deep Blue







Can't wait


----------



## Mayhem

The pink dye is based on a product called "Rhodamine" there are sevral varients of this e.g Rhodamine B or Rhodamine 6G . How ever the prouduct is what is know by chemists as UV Red dye and if a product it goes into is porous, it will then take up the dye and stain it.

This is one of the reasons we are slowly removing it from many of our product lines.


----------



## sahando

Hey guys. I just checked my PH levels and its a 5 :S. according to my mum (chemist) very acidic and bad for my loop. I was wondering what i should do to proceed? Add more drops of Liquid Utopia? I am not sure which side of the scales Liquid Utopia sits on (acidic or alkaline?). Cheers for the info guys, what would you suggest i do from here? Im planning on splitting my loop so i will be draining and refilling loop with fresh coolant and dye, but for future how do i maintain a ph level of 7?


----------



## Mayhem

sorry empty you loop out , rinse though with bicarb, to bring the PH level back to normal. PH 7 is normal.

Get rid of the fluid in you loop as its now basicly buggerd from that PH level.

Now if you were just using a dye + biocide chances are you added to much biocide, If it was a premix or concentrate and you added biocide again you should have not done that. If you have done nither of these and just added water and not flushed then chances are its from the rad and again you still buggerd and need to still clean out you loop. ect ...

Flush loop add about 1/2 a teap spoon of bicarb and bring the levels back up, then flush again with clean water, then add new liquid and dye. if using a biocide read the instrcutions on the bottle to the letter and do not add to much. E.g Biocide extreme we make only needs 1 drop and possbaly 2 on a much larger loop. It comes with PH strips to test you PH level so you dont go under to much.


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> That might be plasticizing that has been colored by the dyed liquid. I had the same residue left when I was using the deep purple and a few types of clear tube. In the end, i just quit on clear tube and I'm using colored tube.
> I'm just waiting on one final main component before i add a few drops of Deep Blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait


its dyed, doesn't rub off like the stuff in my old primochill tubes.

also threw a piece of tube in with what I flushed so I can dye it to match


----------



## sahando

What should i do if i add to much biocide? what i mean is should i then dilute the concoction, and try and balance the PH again? or do i need to start over from scratch?

Cheers for the help and amazing customer support








.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Hey Mike

I love your products (I'm sure I've said it before but I'll say it again). I've been using the pastel mint green and was wondering if I were to buy the green dye would it help make it "greener"? Thing is I want to get the color a bit closer to the color of the green leds in my blocks (XSPC). Keep up the awesome work


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Hey Mike
> 
> I love your products (I'm sure I've said it before but I'll say it again). I've been using the pastel mint green and was wondering if I were to buy the green dye would it help make it "greener"? Thing is I want to get the color a bit closer to the color of the green leds in my blocks (XSPC). Keep up the awesome work


Location would help. (You should update your profile) PPCs stocks dyes if your in the USA.


----------



## PhantomTaco

I know that PPC stocks it, I purchased from them







. I just wanted to make sure just using the green dye would get the desired effect. I know it seems like a no-brainer, but I just want to be certain before I make the purchase.


----------



## Mayhem

@sahando Tel you what. what poduct was you useing, what biocide were you useing. Let me know and ill see what i can do for you.

@PhantomTaco to make pastel green you need to use Blue and UV yellow green dye to make it darker. Dont use the Emerald green as that is a diffent olours. so you right in asking.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @sahando Tel you what. what poduct was you useing, what biocide were you useing. Let me know and ill see what i can do for you.
> @PhantomTaco to make pastel green you need to use Blue and UV yellow green dye to make it darker. Dont use the Emerald green as that is a diffent olours. so you right in asking.


Thanks Mike for the clarification, glad I asked lol. Is it just one to one? IE one drop UV yellow green one drop blue at a time? REP regardless thank you

EDIT Also you're talking about the Mayhem's Deep Blue dye correct?


----------



## Mayhem

Yes im talking about the deep blue and no its not one to one ratio. Ppl have asked me to do a vid on green so wait it out till i get some time and ill do you a video on how to do it best and how just do pastel greens. That way you can see the diffnace.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Will do, i'll keep following this thread till I see it, thanks again


----------



## Fuganater

Just do tests in a wine glass and figure out the ratio yourself.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Would rather wait lol, not in a super rush anyway


----------



## nyk20z3

The Feser UV green coolant i was just about to order is on back order so i am going with Mayhems Pastel Mint Green instead and this pic sold me on it -


----------



## sahando

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @sahando Tel you what. what poduct was you useing, what biocide were you useing. Let me know and ill see what i can do for you.


i am using 4liters (massive loop







) Demineralised water + 5ml red dye, 3 drops blue dye (mayhems), i mixed that all up in the container the demineralised water came in, i then added Liquid Utopia (both biocide & corrosion inhibitor) to it, i added about 3.5ml of liquid utopia (my measuring technique was not accurate at all, so i may have over treated it or under treated).

I think your right in the fact that my radiators are leaching acid, i will have to give them a really good flush soon,i did flush them with near boiling water when i first baught them, but may-by i didn't do such a good job.

cheers.


----------



## Traches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sahando*
> 
> i am using 4liters (massive loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


This I gotta see...


----------



## sahando

I only say that because the 4liter bottle is sitting near empty, has probably 50ml left in it, so the rest must be in my loop. 3X Hardwarelabs 480 rads cpu, ram, mb, decent size res inside a TX10-V with allot of tubing. takes a fair bit of fluid









http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/image.php?id=fceqp&t=1

but yeah now that i think about it 4liters is abit crazy, probs used some of the fluid to test the color before putting it in the loop.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Hey Mike
> I love your products (I'm sure I've said it before but I'll say it again). I've been using the pastel mint green and was wondering if I were to buy the green dye would it help make it "greener"? Thing is I want to get the color a bit closer to the color of the green leds in my blocks (XSPC). Keep up the awesome work


Here's what it looks like with just UV Yellow/Green added. I think it was around 30 or so drops, it takes a lot to alter the Pastels.





Matches the Gigabyte green perfectly.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Here's what it looks like with just UV Yellow/Green added. I think it was around 30 or so drops, it takes a lot to alter the Pastels.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matches the Gigabyte green perfectly.


I remember your build, it's awesome







. How close do you think that green is to the standard LED green you'd get with LED kits?


----------



## Michalius

It's a lot brighter, for sure.

I think though, when you do something like LEDs in the same color as your dye/concentrate, it ends up making everything muddy and reduces the 'pizzaz' that it otherwise has.

To darken it, I'd start with the blue dye. Once the shade starts turning a bit more towards blue, add the yellow/green to correct it. Repeat process until it's matching.


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel needs a few tricks to get it to colour match but that's the beauty of it, its ability to be able to match nearly any colour out there.

We say we create the tools, the users create the art. You think it and we will help you create it ..


----------



## iandroo888

hey i had a question. i was trying to make blood red (before your video guide) and accidentally made a purple. but when i look in the reservoir now, the purple got lighter... is it because of the clouding of the stock xspc rasa kit tubing? or is it a pH change? im gonna order some new duralene tubing and put in a T-line for drain plug so im gonna flush everything out, and use water i acquired from lab thats been filtered (like the ultra pure H2O from mayhem).

i dont use any biocide or anything, i just used the silver kill coil that came with my kit and threw it in the reservoir.


----------



## Mayhem

The only way to tell if its PH is by testing.


----------



## Mayhem

New image of the pastel range uploaded to give you a better idea of what the colours look like.

Please remember though there are slight colour difference between batches due to every thing being hand made from the ground up.

Pastel Orange


Pastel Black


Pastel Green


Pastel White (pastel UV white)


Pastel Pink


Pastel Purple


Pastel Red (new red)


Pastel UV White


Pastel Yellow


250ml Bottle pics


1Ltr Bottle Pics


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> New image of the pastel range uploaded to give you a better idea of what the colours look like.
> Please remember though there are slight colour difference between batches due to every thing being hand made from the ground up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> Pastel Orange
> 
> Pastel Black
> 
> Pastel Green
> 
> Pastel White (pastel UV white)
> 
> Pastel Pink
> 
> Pastel Purple
> 
> Pastel Red (new red)
> 
> Pastel UV White
> 
> Pastel Yellow
> 
> 250ml Bottle pics
> 
> 1Ltr Bottle Pics


Lovely


----------



## ginger_nuts

Love the yellow and red.

I am thinking about using the yellow with the kids computer, to make a Batman theme









Should be good unless the wife sees this or the invoices.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Any idea of when you might get a chance to show us how to make the Mint Green greener?


----------



## iandroo888

black n red. if only it was a darker red >=P haha


----------



## GoodInk

I want a Case Labs now so I can have 3 loops in one case, orange, black and red!


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I want a Case Labs now so I can have 3 loops in one case, orange, black and red!


I'd do black white and red, but if you ever do either one post a log, definitely want to see it


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I want a Case Labs now so I can have 3 loops in one case, orange, black and red!
> 
> 
> 
> I'd do black white and red, but if you ever do either one post a log, definitely want to see it
Click to expand...

Not going to happen anytime soon, unless I get a crazy sponsorship.


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quick question here, I was wondering if I could do a mix of 1 part pastel yellow with 1 part aurora silver pearl? Obviously dilute them in the proper ratios. Namely I was hoping for a vibrant yellow color with the bad a** pearlescent effect.

Edit* I know the Aurora is not for extended use, planning on redoing most of my water cooling components in January when I get a new case. Seriously outgrowing the 600T.


----------



## Rickles

Here is my pastel purple, you can only see it truly in the res and 1 tube going into res as the rest of my tubes are dyed pink












Spoiler: pink tube


----------



## Michalius

While rebuilding my loop, I went to go prepare my concentrate mix. Third bottle of my favorite Pastel Green. When I went to mix it, I noticed it looked a bit off. Absolutely gorgeous color, but not the Pastel Green I was hoping to use again. I think I received a bad batch of Pastel Green! My question - should I contact Performance PCs for the replacement?

Regular on the left, the new stuff on the right.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> While rebuilding my loop, I went to go prepare my concentrate mix. Third bottle of my favorite Pastel Green. When I went to mix it, I noticed it looked a bit off. Absolutely gorgeous color, but not the Pastel Green I was hoping to use again. I think I received a bad batch of Pastel Green! My question - should I contact Performance PCs for the replacement?
> Regular on the left, the new stuff on the right.


Neon green, yummy! Hmmm...based on my experience with ppcs.com, there's a chance they'll turn you to Mayhems. It wouldn't hurt to contact both though


----------



## ginger_nuts

I have two bottles of pastel concentrate, one Blue and the other blue berry.

Is there a difference in the colors?


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> While rebuilding my loop, I went to go prepare my concentrate mix. Third bottle of my favorite Pastel Green. When I went to mix it, I noticed it looked a bit off. Absolutely gorgeous color, but not the Pastel Green I was hoping to use again. I think I received a bad batch of Pastel Green! My question - should I contact Performance PCs for the replacement?
> 
> Regular on the left, the new stuff on the right.


Did you shake it up first?


----------



## Mayhem

Hi there its not a bad batch but just colour change. Sand me you name and address to [email protected] and ill sort you it out with a ref link to this post on here and ill sort it all out for you. We deal with any support direct for all our Re-sellers. All it need its 1 drop of blue dye







.

Ill explain why these colour changes are seen in our products.

All companies that sell liquids for water cooling except us purchase there dyes in liquid form which are easily colour matched via special systems so that if you use 1 Ml of dye you get pretty much the same colour batch in batch out. Mayhems doesn't do this we buy in dye as powder form and then turn these dyes into liquid and because of this, it is extremely difficult to maintain consistency even when we measure down to the 0.01 gm. Our batch runs are quite small at the moment but as we grow they will became larger.

*Why do we use powder over liquids?*

When you use liquids you get what you are given and its no ware near as strong as powder dye, also they contain some very unfriendly chemicals. Powder dyes are some time upwards of 40x stronger than there liquid counterpart. Powder dyes can be traced down to there source and we can all so find out what exactly goes into the powder dyes, you cannot do this with liquid dyes. Dyes don't just contain dye they all so contain many other products to help aid the dye to maintain its colour and some of these products especially in industrial dye are very questionable and are not human or animal safe. Again this is why we chose to go down a different route than any other manufacturers.

Hope this gives you a better understanding of why the batches all are a little different.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi there its not a bad batch but just colour change. Sand me you name and address to [email protected] and ill sort you it out with a ref link to this post on here and ill sort it all out for you. We deal with any support direct for all our Re-sellers. All it need its 1 drop of blue dye


Aha! I already have a bottle of blue dye, so I'll just add in a drop of that. Easy peasy. Thanks for your help.


----------



## Mayhem

Your welcome could you also let PPC know your sorted as they sent us you support request haha.


----------



## sockpirate

I use the white pastel in my white prodigy loop and it looks gorgeous.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Your welcome could you also let PPC know your sorted as they sent us you support request haha.


Yeah, I did. They wanted to comp me a bottle of blue dye, but I told them no. Their customer service is too speedy sometimes.

*edit*

Also, for the record, this color is absolutely gorgeous. It's like a pastel neon yellow with slight green tint along the edges. I was intoxicated just looking at it last night. Started my gears for thinking about a build to use it in before I regained my sanity.


----------



## Mayhem

haha Don't worry your still gonna get the blue dye we will compensate them for any loses so just take it







.

When adding the blue dye just water it down a little and it will be easier to control the colour then. Have fun


----------



## PatrickCrowely

That new Pastel Red is very nice!


----------



## Rognin

Woot got my XT-1. Winter will be no foe of mine!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thanks Mick for the res replacement,not the exact one,you got the all clear instead of black endcaps...i am not complaining,it looks bloody great!


----------



## _REAPER_

Will this coolant work in Danger Den DreamFlex tubing or should I just get XSPC as per the recommendation below

Mayhems Pastel Coolant

Mayhems Pastel is a mixed bag of tricks and has a extremely long life span. This product was developed in conjunction with "Ice Dragon Cooling" to produce pastel type colours for the PC user. Mayhems Pastel Coolants can be used up to 3 years in a system.

Do not use Mayhems Pastel with Primochill tubing or Tygon tubing as Mayhems Pastel seems to react with it changing the colour of the tubing to a greenish colour. This is not the fault of Primochill, Tygon or Mayhems it is just a incompatibility issue. Pastel works fine with XSPC, Thermochill, Clear Flex, Masterclear and a few other brands.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Will this coolant work in Danger Den DreamFlex tubing or should I just get XSPC as per the recommendation below
> Mayhems Pastel Coolant
> Mayhems Pastel is a mixed bag of tricks and has a extremely long life span. This product was developed in conjunction with "Ice Dragon Cooling" to produce pastel type colours for the PC user. Mayhems Pastel Coolants can be used up to 3 years in a system.
> Do not use Mayhems Pastel with Primochill tubing or Tygon tubing as Mayhems Pastel seems to react with it changing the colour of the tubing to a greenish colour. This is not the fault of Primochill, Tygon or Mayhems it is just a incompatibility issue. Pastel works fine with XSPC, Thermochill, Clear Flex, Masterclear and a few other brands.


Out of all of them,the clearflex is your best option


----------



## s0up2up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thanks Mick for the res replacement,not the exact one,you got the all clear instead of black endcaps...i am not complaining,it looks bloody great!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yo B-Negative, is that a Bitspower Res?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Yo B-Negative, is that a Bitspower Res?


Yes
I only use BP res for my builds.


----------



## Mayhem

yw shame i just got hit for the import duty on that on Friday .. its was one of them *** !!!! Moments ....

Danger Den DreamFlex never tired and and never had it in my hands so i don't really know what its like.


----------



## myrizzle

Hi all!

Was wondering, to make the green pastel even greener.. I mean, make it more of an Nvidia green. What dyes do you need to mix into the Minty green pastel?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *myrizzle*
> 
> Hi all!
> Was wondering, to make the green pastel even greener.. I mean, make it more of an Nvidia green. What dyes do you need to mix into the Minty green pastel?
> Thanks in advance!


That would actually be making it more yellow. Add UV yellow/green dye. Here's one liter of mint green pastel with about 25-30 drops (can't remember exact amount) of UV yellow/green. Posting an older pic so you can see it in comparison to the NVIDIA green.





Also, Michael, the Pastel Green without the blue dye is so gorgeous, I had to put it in my loop and take a picture of it prior to color correcting it. I think you should consider selling this separately. Calling it something like Pastel Ultra Yellow or some such thing because it seriously looks like it's UV without the glow. Only light source in this pic is bright white LEDs.



So pretty!


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> yw shame i just got hit for the import duty on that on Friday .. its was one of them *** !!!! Moments ....
> Danger Den DreamFlex never tired and and never had it in my hands so i don't really know what its like.


Used DD blue dreamflex in my gf's puter. It leeches bad, and greenish too with pure DI and a kill coil. I took it apart and cleaned it with a brush (like the ones used for guns) and it hasn't clouded over since. How long of a tube do you need to test it as I have some left over.


----------



## Mayhem

on the cards ... we are just keeping the cards coming slow at the moment not to flood the market too much pmsl.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Yo B-Negative, is that a Bitspower Res?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes
> I only use BP res for my builds.
Click to expand...

Any real reason or is it one of those things if it at broke why fix it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Any real reason or is it one of those things if it at broke why fix it?


Get one in your hand and feel the weight of it,the clarity of the plexi and general build quality and you will know why.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Get one in your hand and feel the weight of it,the clarity of the plexi and general build quality and you will know why.


Agreed! I have one in ice black finish in my current build and one unused in ice red finish...both res are very high quality acrylic!


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> That would actually be making it more yellow. Add UV yellow/green dye. Here's one liter of mint green pastel with about 25-30 drops (can't remember exact amount) of UV yellow/green. Posting an older pic so you can see it in comparison to the NVIDIA green.
> 
> 
> Also, Michael, the Pastel Green without the blue dye is so gorgeous, I had to put it in my loop and take a picture of it prior to color correcting it. I think you should consider selling this separately. Calling it something like Pastel Ultra Yellow or some such thing because it seriously looks like it's UV without the glow. Only light source in this pic is bright white LEDs.
> 
> So pretty!


Wouldn't UV green dye do the trick or it needs to be the uv yellow/uv green ?


----------



## DirectOverkill

That is some badass blue.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Wouldn't UV green dye do the trick or it needs to be the uv yellow/uv green ?


Needs to be yellow dye in specific. Yellow + Blue = Green. To make the green more akin to NVIDIA, you need to increase the amount of yellow in it. By adding more green, you would not alter the color at all.


----------



## iandroo888

got 20' of duralene from sidewinders







hope to make the new loop sometime this month !

wonder what the pH of my water is right now.. my "blood red" turning "purple" is now almost clear. LOL


----------



## Mayhem

Check with PH test strip i bet its acid.


----------



## iandroo888

havent had time to pick some up from research lab. maybe stop by lab later this week.

will check the pH before i drain it. will clean everything out before i put in the new tubing, ultra pure water, and dye.

whats best to clean everything? blocks is lemon juice from what i heard? the tubing will be thrown away. stock xspc rasa kit tubing. all clouded now. been about a month.


----------



## Mayhem

Well if you cleaning with lemon juice that's a acid once again so its best to neutralize it once you cleaned it. Use bi carb


----------



## iandroo888

where do i get bicarbonate? assuming thats what u mean by bicarb?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> where do i get bicarbonate? assuming thats what u mean by bicarb?


Wal-Mart, Walgreens, many drug stores, etc.


----------



## iandroo888

this cant be it, can it? http://www.walmart.com/ip/Monterey-Bi-Carb-Old-Fashioned-Fungicide-Bottle/19277163


----------



## Mayhem

Bicarbonate of soda or baking soda - get from cooking isle were they do cake baking stuff .. dunno what that is you posted.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I believe what Mayhem was referring to is Sodium bicarbonate .

I believe it is also used for cooking, as a rising agent.

I was to slow


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You could also try...

http://www.creamsupplies.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=2502



This will get around any dye interaction with the litmus paper.


----------



## ginger_nuts

For the Pastel range of coolants, what PH should I aim for?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> For the Pastel range of coolants, what PH should I aim for?


7. Neutral.


----------



## GoodInk

This might sound dumb but if you use litmus paper won't the dye color the paper?


----------



## iandroo888

lol me stupid


----------



## hammerforged

Thinking about getting some pastel black for my loop. Any thoughts?

I had black primochill and well I think we all know where that leads. Now I have some Durelene. Tried sleeving it but my compression fittings dont like it. So now Im looking into the black pastel. Kinda worried about damage to my stuff and it all turning black. Thanks for the help!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Thinking about getting some pastel black for my loop. Any thoughts?
> I had black primochill and well I think we all know where that leads. Now I have some Durelene. Tried sleeving it but my compression fittings dont like it. So now Im looking into the black pastel. Kinda worried about damage to my stuff and it all turning black. Thanks for the help!


Is that the "Jet Black" pastel?


----------



## hammerforged

Yeah I believe so.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=35740

$$ though









Or I could always run the pastel grape red. Kind of an ROG'ish build.

Let me know what you all think. Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Yeah I believe so.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=35740
> $$ though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or I could always run the pastel grape red. Kind of an ROG'ish build.
> Let me know what you all think. Thanks!


Black is definitely interesting but I get feeling once in the loop, it'll make the tube look like ordinary black tube. Grape-red would be more eye-catching, especially in the tube. Tough call...


----------



## hammerforged

I do have an ROG mid plate coming in and I dont wanna get too goth looking. I might have to try out the red. I keep reading and seeing mayhems name in the wc forums so I figure I better try some out.


----------



## Rickles

If you want my opinion, which you probably don't, I would go with white and a dye, or two. That way you can get it just how you want it. I did that to make a pastel purple and I am very happy with the results. Just waiting on Sidewinders vacation to be over so I can get some new durelene put in as UV pink stains like the Dickens, even Charles Dickens.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> If you want my opinion, which you probably don't, I would go with white and a dye, or two. That way you can get it just how you want it. I did that to make a pastel purple and I am very happy with the results. Just waiting on Sidewinders vacation to be over so I can get some new durelene put in as UV pink stains like the Dickens, even Charles Dickens.


Yeah I just watched a video of this process. The Pastel grapre red doesnt look like the red on ppcs website. Like you said this may be a better process. Ha I noticed the Sidewinders vacation too. Who does he think he is taking vacations







ha We got money to blow!


----------



## Mayhem

Colour are up to you guys all we can do is either show you the premixed colour we have or do vids to show you how to make it to your own needs.

Pastel grape reds will no longer be produced once its out we wont be making any more of it. I have over 70+ products that i make now so i need to limit some of them. There is only so much i can do









The black inst to bad for staining as we don't use UV dyes in it how ever you will still get some slight staining. Don't forget though this is pastel based so it will be a little whitish black its quite hard to explain ad has to be seen by the human eye. How ever once in the tubing the tint goes and looks like a deep black..

Digital PH testers are a bit of a strange one. if testing our Ultra Pure H20 you will not get a real reading from it, its so pure low end digital readers have problems reading the fluids straight out of the bottle. You need to let the bottle settle with the cap of for about 20 min so that you get a real reading. How ever premixed fluids such as Pastel , Aurora and X1 and XT-1 will be fine strgiht out of the bottle.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Yeah I believe so.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=35740
> 
> $$ though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or I could always run the pastel grape red. Kind of an ROG'ish build.
> 
> Let me know what you all think. Thanks!


I hate PPC's, please Mayhem get us 2 more sellers here in the US to keep them all honest. Plus like I said in our e-mails, that company will *NEVER* see my money again.


----------



## Mayhem

Im sorry hank off PPC has worked with me for a long time and has my trust. They have worked closely with us and help us move the products around the USA. Mayhems is very proud to have our products in PPC. We don't chase down resellers or distributors they come to us now and have done for a long time.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I hate PPC's, please Mayhem get us 2 more sellers here in the US to keep them all honest. Plus like I said in our e-mails, that company will *NEVER* see my money again.


Why not ask another company (local computer store) to purchase the stuff from Mayhems or PPC's to on sell it to you.

Plus you gotta respect Mayhems in not wanting to step on toes of a big customer.

It sounds more like a PPC's problem then Mayhems.

Plus consider yourself lucky, here in Australia we only have one re-seller, and they don't always have all the listed products available.


----------



## beanscene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Plus consider yourself lucky, here in Australia we only have one re-seller, and they don't always have all the listed products available.


Two now, but that won't help you being over east







. PLE in Perth started stocking mayhems about a month ago


----------



## Fuganater

Xoxide is selling some stuff.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh forgot about Xoxide they sell the stuff. you need to remember i only make and support it. sales deals with who stocks our stuff i like to keep out of the sales side of things.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beanscene*
> 
> Two now, but that won't help you being over east
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . PLE in Perth started stocking mayhems about a month ago


That is awesome, thanks









They sell the dye which TKR do not.


----------



## beanscene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> That is awesome, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They sell the dye which TKR do not.


Oh so they ship overstate? Of course they ship overstate *facepalm* thinking they wouldn't was probably the silliest assumption i have ever made. Glad you found what you need


----------



## Hamy144

Quick question, can someone from mayhems give a some advice.
What clear tubing are you using when testing it, asking because having some plasticizer issues and have decided to go the dye route.
And please someone don't come in here and just go "derp get durelene" im based in the UK so i cant get hold of any.


----------



## Fuganater

SidewindersComputers.com ships internationally...


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> SidewindersComputers.com ships internationally...


Realistically its not worth it on top of maybe customs? shipping fees, not to mention the shipping times.


----------



## Fuganater

Guess not for something so cheap. Can you get Clearflex? That's what Mic uses in all his systems.


----------



## soth

Hi All,

I have a few quick questions for you about a choice of mayhem products to use in my loops.

I am going to source some Durelene tubing as I've lost all trust in primoflex tubing due to the plasticizer fiasco. This is the first time I will be using clear tubing and dyes.

There are mixed metals in my loops (copper, nickel and brass).

To give you a better idea here are the loops:

Loop one
2 x Laing D5's in an XSPC acrylic res
Aquacomputer 360 rad with copper tubes
copper south bridge block (custom one being built by natedogg)
2nd Aquacomputer 360 rad with copper tubes
nickel/acetal EK supremacy
nickel/POM MIPS mosfet block
repeat

Loop two
2 x Laing D5's in an XSPC acrylic res
Watercool MORA3 rad with copper tubes
4 x Nickel/Acetal EK 680gtx blocks
repeat

Fittings are all bitspower silver shining (assume they are brass coated).

Which would be the better solution to achieve UV blue while maintaining a decent ph level and kill all the bugs in the loops?

I will be using store bought distilled water as I can't afford to import mayhems ultra pure water from overseas and can't find a supplier in Australia with it.

1) Mayhems Biocide + Mayhems Clear UV Blue + Mayhems Blue
2) Mayhems X1 Concentrate - UV Blue
3) Mayhems XT-1 Coolant - UV Blue


----------



## Lutfij

@ Hamy144 - I know that Mayhems is UK based - so he's the best suited to answer your question based on being of same locality/region


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Mayhem says clearflex is good, I can personally vouch for XSPC tubing.


----------



## Mayhem

@Hamy144 - I like clearflex all though its not perfect its very cheap, Ive finally got some durelene imported (facepalm at the import duty) and "OH NOOOOOO" its the wrong ID haha ...

Bitemarks and bloodstains suggests XSPC and you all so have Masterkleer and various other brands out there.

There are plenty of cheap brands out there on the market and if you really stuck you don't have to bother with any named brands just hit up your wine making shop and ask them for some decent tubing.

So when it comes down to it, its your personal taste as "no" tubing is perfect for our needs as no one has invented a pure clear tubing that stays clear unless you go for glass







...


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soth*
> 
> Hi All,
> I have a few quick questions for you about a choice of mayhem products to use in my loops.
> I am going to source some Durelene tubing as I've lost all trust in primoflex tubing due to the plasticizer fiasco. This is the first time I will be using clear tubing and dyes.
> There are mixed metals in my loops (copper, nickel and brass).
> To give you a better idea here are the loops:
> Loop one
> 2 x Laing D5's in an XSPC acrylic res
> Aquacomputer 360 rad with copper tubes
> copper south bridge block (custom one being built by natedogg)
> 2nd Aquacomputer 360 rad with copper tubes
> nickel/acetal EK supremacy
> nickel/POM MIPS mosfet block
> repeat
> Loop two
> 2 x Laing D5's in an XSPC acrylic res
> Watercool MORA3 rad with copper tubes
> 4 x Nickel/Acetal EK 680gtx blocks
> repeat
> Fittings are all bitspower silver shining (assume they are brass coated).
> Which would be the better solution to achieve UV blue while maintaining a decent ph level and kill all the bugs in the loops?
> I will be using store bought distilled water as I can't afford to import mayhems ultra pure water from overseas and can't find a supplier in Australia with it.
> 1) Mayhems Biocide + Mayhems Clear UV Blue + Mayhems Blue
> 2) Mayhems X1 Concentrate - UV Blue
> 3) Mayhems XT-1 Coolant - UV Blue


TKR sell Masterklear tubing, Clear UV Blue . This Masterklear tubing is meant to be pretty good. I have bought some, but are yet to build with it.

Also PLE Computers sell Mayhems stuff.

That mixed with either Mayhems blue dye or Pastel Blue would work well. Plus the Pastel range has biocides and anti-corrosion properties already.

As for the mixed metals you mentioned, it will be fine.

The Bitspower fittings you mention, I can not say the same, I refer you to this post of mine, if you read a few post more it seems almost common.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Hamy144 - I like clearflex all though its not perfect its very cheap, Ive finally got some durelene imported (facepalm at the import duty) and "OH NOOOOOO" its the wrong ID haha ...
> Bitemarks and bloodstains suggests XSPC and you all so have Masterkleer and various other brands out there.
> There are plenty of cheap brands out there on the market and if you really stuck you don't have to bother with any named brands just hit up your wine making shop and ask them for some decent tubing.
> So when it comes down to it, its your personal taste as "no" tubing is perfect for our needs as no one has invented a pure clear tubing that stays clear unless you go for glass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I think that clearflex is probably the best choice for me, im using XSPC blue at the moment and the plasticizer is awful, haven't tried masterkleer before but haven't heard anything bad about it.
Thanks for your help!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Mayhem says clearflex is good, I can personally vouch for XSPC tubing.


In what way?
XSPC tube is known for having bad plasticizer issues so im not sure what you are vouching for.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In what way?
> XSPC tube is known for having bad plasticizer issues so im not sure what you are vouching for.


This. All those Rasa kits were known to go bad quickly. One of the downsides to this kit; the crappy clear tube.

Then again, their budget kits might have come with "budget" tub not any quality tube. Still, i would be wary of xspc tube.

I'm going to contact a buddy who has a contact with Primochill. Gonna see if I can get a direct sample of clear tube from them to test.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Mayhem says clearflex is good, I can personally vouch for XSPC tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> In what way?
> XSPC tube is known for having bad plasticizer issues so im not sure what you are vouching for.
Click to expand...

I ran XSPC black tubing for over 2 years with no maintenance and had zero plasticizer build up and my current XSPC clear has been running for 5 months and no issues yet.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> I ran XSPC black tubing for over 2 years with no maintenance and had zero plasticizer build up and my current XSPC clear has been running for 5 months and no issues yet.


Interesting.
You are very much in the minority,reports mark it as not good at all,clouding and plasticizer are the main complaints.

Biocide? Coil? Dye?

Do you have pictures of your tubing in its current state?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

The black I used DI water with a killcoil and the clear is DI with Mayhems deep blue but no killcoil or other additives.
I'll try and get a pic of the clear up tomorrow the black went in the bin a long time ago.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> The black I used DI water with a killcoil and the clear is DI with Mayhems deep blue but no killcoil or other additives.
> I'll try and get a pic of the clear up tomorrow the black went in the bin a long time ago.


Strangely my experience with black primochill,one of the worst offenders right now,was the same with DI and a coil. No build up of any kind.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> In what way?
> XSPC tube is known for having bad plasticizer issues so im not sure what you are vouching for.
> 
> 
> 
> This. All those Rasa kits were known to go bad quickly. One of the downsides to this kit; the crappy clear tube.
> 
> Then again, their budget kits might have come with "budget" tub not any quality tube. Still, i would be wary of xspc tube.
> 
> I'm going to contact a buddy who has a contact with Primochill. Gonna see if I can get a direct sample of clear tube from them to test.
Click to expand...

From what I have read on OCN, the tubing that comes with the kits is not the same tubing XSPC sells for some reason.


----------



## Mayhem

Id love to comment on tubing but every time i open my mouth i end up putting my foot in it so i wont this time around. My personal perf is cheaper the better.

Clearflex to me is a bargain as it does cloud over a given time frame yet is cheap as chips. How ever if you really what to reduce the risk of clouding check you PH levels. Don't use harsh chemicals if cleaning out you system and if you do make sure you bring you PH balance back into the range of 7. Keep you temps down as "Heat" has a big part to play in clouding and plasticizer being released into the system. Keep you PC away from direct sun light. if using UV lights only turn them on when needed. The thicker the tubing the more plasticizer or discolouring will be seen. And finally don't expect miracles ....

If you what the perfect tube speak to neg and get him to teach you how to bend copper piping.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Id love to comment on tubing but every time i open my mouth i end up putting my foot in it so i wont this time around. My personal perf is cheaper the better.
> Clearflex to me is a bargain as it does cloud over a given time frame yet is cheap as chips. How ever if you really what to reduce the risk of clouding check you PH levels. Don't use harsh chemicals if cleaning out you system and if you do make sure you bring you PH balance back into the range of 7. Keep you temps down as "Heat" has a big part to play in clouding and plasticizer being released into the system. Keep you PC away from direct sun light. if using UV lights only turn them on when needed. The thicker the tubing the more plasticizer or discolouring will be seen. And finally don't expect miracles ....
> If you what the perfect tube speak to neg and get him to teach you how to bend copper piping.


Thanks Mayhem,wait a minute....that means more work for me!!!

Bugger.


----------



## nyk20z3

Just doing some leak testing but i will show off a little Mayhems UV Green Concentrate -

I am waiting on some Mayhems UV Yellow/Green dye some i can make it even brighter.


----------



## teamrushpntball

So very very sexy.


----------



## Blaze0303

Does anybody know a place that will ship Mayhems Pastel white to a FPO/APO address?


----------



## Fuganater

PPCs. I buy from them all the time. I have a DPO/APO addy.


----------



## Blaze0303

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> PPCs. I buy from them all the time. I have a DPO/APO addy.


Thanks, i'll keep them in mind. They want $11.40 for shipping and the dye costs $19.99!


----------



## Fuganater

Wow really? I never buy less than $50 at a time from them so it normally evens out. See if Xoxide.com has what you need.


----------



## Mupp1t

Mayhem Ice White with XSPC UV Blue tubing


----------



## NASzi

Mayhems Pastel red

With lights on



Lights off


----------



## Kranik

So I have an unopened bottle of EKoolant Blood Red for the build I'm working on but after seeing pictures of Mayhems here all I can think is how great it'd look to have the Pastel dyes running through my build! But now I have some questions!

First: Which would be the best way to achieve the Pastel Blood Red? Start with Pastel Light Red concentrate and mix in the Deep Blue dye till I get a color I like or to follow the video Mayhem posted up on Youtube? Is the Pastel Light Red concentrate as difficult to darken as the Ice White? And if not, in a side by side comparison would I get better performance with the X1/Pastel Ice White concentrate mixture detailed in the video?

Second: Once I know the best way to get everything mixed about how much concentrate and dye should I be looking to purchase? My final loop will include three Radeon 7970's, an i5-3570k, a 285ml capacity EK Reservoir, a 420mm radiator and a 360mm radiator. I imagine that's a pretty sizable loop, any advice on how much to buy? I know that 250ml of concentrate makes 1 liter of fluid, so am I looking at 2 bottles of whatever concentrate I choose? Maybe more?

I think that's in for now! Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide! Can't wait to get everything put together and running!


----------



## nyk20z3

A 250ml bottle makes 2 liters.

You mix 125ml of concentrate for every 1 liter of distilled water.

I am using a cpu water block, dual gpu water blocks, dual 360 rads, Bitspower 150 tube res and i have a decent amount of fluid left over after maxing the tube res out.

Since your tube res is bigger i would invest in 2 bottles of concentrate so you have more then enough!


----------



## Fuganater

Be careful when seeing how much you need. Only X1 is 250ml for 2 liters. Pastel is 250ml for 1 liter.

I use Pastel in several of my builds and I buy 2-3 bottles when I get a new color. Never hurts to have it around.


----------



## quebert

Has anyone made the Pastel Orange UV? I'm going for a white/orange color scheme for my Prodigy and the Pastel looks great I'm just not sure how it would turn out with UV dye added. Also, is there a prefered brand of white tubing to use? I see lots of "avoid this brand" and "use this brand" but it's all pointing to clear tube. I'm not sure if this same advice applies to white tubing. Sorry I'm a water n00b.


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Be careful when seeing how much you need. Only X1 is 250ml for 2 liters. Pastel is 250ml for 1 liter.
> I use Pastel in several of my builds and I buy 2-3 bottles when I get a new color. Never hurts to have it around.


Between you and NYK that pretty much covers question two, looks like I'll likely get 2 bottles of whichever concentrate I choose! Thanks guys!







+REP

I guess that just really leaves question one! Any thoughts on what would be the best method of achieving a good Pastel Blood Red coolant? If I go with Pastel Light Red do you think I'll still need some X1 to make it more receptive to color change or do you think I could get on without it and just some Deep Blue and Red dye? Or would it simply be better to go with the setup outlined in the video (Ice White, X1, Deep Blue, Red)?


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Be careful when seeing how much you need. Only X1 is 250ml for 2 liters. Pastel is 250ml for 1 liter.
> I use Pastel in several of my builds and I buy 2-3 bottles when I get a new color. Never hurts to have it around.


Thanks for the correction i didn't know the Pastel was different!


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Be careful when seeing how much you need. Only X1 is 250ml for 2 liters. Pastel is 250ml for 1 liter.
> I use Pastel in several of my builds and I buy 2-3 bottles when I get a new color. Never hurts to have it around.
> 
> 
> 
> Between you and NYK that pretty much covers question two, looks like I'll likely get 2 bottles of whichever concentrate I choose! Thanks guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +REP
> 
> I guess that just really leaves question one! Any thoughts on what would be the best method of achieving a good Pastel Blood Red coolant? If I go with Pastel Light Red do you think I'll still need some X1 to make it more receptive to color change or do you think I could get on without it and just some Deep Blue and Red dye? Or would it simply be better to go with the setup outlined in the video (Ice White, X1, Deep Blue, Red)?
Click to expand...

Mine is pretty blood red. I'll take a picture tonight. The only problem with the Pastel line is that when you put white lights on it, it looks 50 shades lighter. (haha at <---)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Be careful when seeing how much you need. Only X1 is 250ml for 2 liters. Pastel is 250ml for 1 liter.
> I use Pastel in several of my builds and I buy 2-3 bottles when I get a new color. Never hurts to have it around.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the correction i didn't know the Pastel was different!
Click to expand...

NP. Arura is the same as Pastel.


----------



## XViper2

How much do you add to get it blood red? Looks awesome. Might try it on my build.


----------



## Mayhem

Guys jump to the front of this Thread, go to the bottom of first post and lean from videos how to make blood red.


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Guys jump to the front of this Thread, go to the bottom of first post and lean from videos how to make blood red.


I've seen the vid, I guess I was just curious if there was an alternate method by starting with light red and moving to the blood red in hopes of saving a bit of money by skipping the need for X1. As it's only use according to the video seems to be to make the Ice White more receptive to color change. Is starting at Light Red a good money saving alternative or will it result in sub par colors?


----------



## Mayhem

You can start with light red how ever the results will vary


----------



## corysti

So I have a few questions on the mayhems. I've been looking at the Aurora Nebula Blue since I've gone with a blue theme and it's got me a little concerned if it would even work in my system. I have a few questions if Mayhem can answer or someone that is familiar with this concentrate.

I have the Ek Pump/Res combo


and I read that it doesn't do well with the pump/res combo but I also have a bitspower res that will be my main res because I didn't want to remove the res off the pump. The combo pump and res will not be seen but the bitspower res will be. Would this work?


----------



## PatrickCrowely

When will the new Pastel Red be in stores?


----------



## Mayhem

@corysti that pump res is not a pump res combo its a res strapped onto a pump ... Pump res combo are things like XSPC 750 were a pump is put inside a res. Bay res are a big no no. They don't work as well and are only good for a show case.

@PatrickCrowely Some store have it now.


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @corysti that pump res is not a pump res combo its a res strapped onto a pump ... Pump res combo are things like XSPC 750 were a pump is put inside a res. Bay res are a big no no. They don't work as well and are only good for a show case.
> @PatrickCrowely Some store have it now.


So am I safe to use the product or no?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> So am I safe to use the product or no?


It will only work for a weekend or so (meant for shows) and will give you fairly high temperatures, as much as up to 8C higher.


----------



## corysti

That sucks I was really liking that color


----------



## Mayhem

never seen a 8c increase normally its 3 to 4 at most.


----------



## Hamy144

Ordered some Deep blue dye today, my hopes are high, hopefully wont be let down, seen some really lovely colours.


----------



## Mayhem

@Hamy144 Its all depends what you after if you hopes are normal then you wont be let down lol. We do not offer you the world and give you the manure at the end of the street







....


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> never seen a 8c increase normally its 3 to 4 at most.


Apologies, was regurgitating some second hand information.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> It will only work for a weekend or so (meant for shows) and will give you fairly high temperatures, as much as up to 8C higher.


Have you actually ever used Aurora? Aurora will and does last FAR longer than just a weekend. I've had Aurora look as good as it did on day one 3 months down the line.

Don't get me wrong, you can't just add Aurora to a loop and expect it to last for long periods of time. In many ways you should build your loop around Aurora. If you do so it will likely last along time.

Thermal wise, I was no difference in performance between Aurora and Distilled water. Aurora is a slightly stronger X1 mix with a couple of different things added plus the Aurora particles.

Also I'd be happy to help anyone design their system around Aurora.


----------



## nyk20z3

Mayhems UV green concentrate with 20 drops of Mayhems uv yellow/green dye -


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Have you actually ever used Aurora? Aurora will and does last FAR longer than just a weekend. I've had Aurora look as good as it did on day one 3 months down the line.
> Don't get me wrong, you can't just add Aurora to a loop and expect it to last for long periods of time. In many ways you should build your loop around Aurora. If you do so it will likely last along time.
> Thermal wise, I was no difference in performance between Aurora and Distilled water. Aurora is a slightly stronger X1 mix with a couple of different things added plus the Aurora particles.
> Also I'd be happy to help anyone design their system around Aurora.


YGPM sir!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> When will the new Pastel Red be in stores?


Aquatuning has it, but they still have it labeled as light red, I got my red about a month ago from them.
http://www.aquatuning.us/


----------



## corysti

I have no problem cleaning my loop every 6 months...I normally upgrade at least once a year


----------



## schnellschnell

I just received my bottle of light red pastel today, but haven't put it in my loop yet. My question was if the lights in my reservoir will be any use, or is it too opaque to matter? Currently I have 2 red LEDs in the bottom of a tube res, pointing up.

j


----------



## beanscene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> I have no problem cleaning my loop every 6 months...I normally upgrade at least once a year


I think as long as your loop is not too complex, you don't have too many 90 degree fittings, and your pump/res combination is compatible you should be fine to use aurora. I guess the only way to know 100% if it's gonna work is to try it. Mayhem has pointed out earlier in this thread that when aurora starts to fail and the particles reach the end of their life span you can drain your loop and filter all the liquid through a coffee filter and you will be left with what is almost identical to the Mayhems X1 coolant..


----------



## Mayhem

@schnellschnell never tried it to be honest.


----------



## wermad

~30 drops of Deep Blue. I have three Monsta rads so I'm running close to 1.5L of distilled in my loop









After 25 drops, there wasn't much difference. I added five more just to confirm.


----------



## steelkevin

I really don't understand your loop.
Have you got a worklog or more photos That reservoir is just so confusing...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I really don't understand your loop.
> Have you got a worklog or more photos That reservoir is just so confusing...


No log









Its a Koolance reservoir with two tube bodies attached with a coupler. The coupler has ports which is where the liquid enters the res. I have the Koolance ddc pump top that's attached to the tube res with another Koolance coupler. From there: 360 Monsta>240Monsta>gpu//gpu>360 Monsta> cpu> res.

I'll take some better pics later on


----------



## steelkevin

That's a lot of Monstas







.
I'd sort of figured that it wasn't a reservoir you'd just bought but when I was looking into tube reservoirs I hadn't noticed any of those koolance thigns you're using right now.

Will wait for the photos.


----------



## _REAPER_

I went ahead with the MasterKleer tubing now time to decide on what Color Mayhems I wan to go with. I am thinking WHITE to be different or RED. Below is a pic of my build I will be putting in 680 Classified and my watercooling on RR let me know what you guys think.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I went ahead with the MasterKleer tubing now time to decide on what Color Mayhems I wan to go with. I am thinking WHITE to be different or RED. Below is a pic of my build I will be putting in 680 Classified and my watercooling on RR let me know what you guys think.


I would say Pastel White UV, with UV lights would look great and fresh.

RED would look good, but so over done. But if you like red more your choice.

This is my









Oh and nice build


----------



## Michalius

How about black pastel with white barbs? Would look stupid awesome, IMO.


----------



## Rickles

white monsoons would look better than barbs


----------



## iandroo888

just redid my loop. new tubing. added a T connector for a drain line. ultra pure H2O. 20 drops of red dye.

lookin good so far



obviously leak testing right now


----------



## teamrushpntball

Like to add a few photos (terrible cellphone pics, sorry) of the new Mayhem's Aurora Namron Yellow. Enjoy everyone:







Also side note, kinda smells like tequila and looks like egg yolk when I premixed it in a jug. Looks amazing flowing through my loop now though.


----------



## JohnnyEars

A few loop updates, now using Mayhems pastel blue berry with Masterkleer hose:


----------



## _REAPER_

That sir looks amazing


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> Like to add a few photos (terrible cellphone pics, sorry) of the new Mayhem's Aurora Namron Yellow. Enjoy everyone:
> 
> 
> 
> Also side note, kinda smells like tequila and looks like egg yolk when I premixed it in a jug. Looks amazing flowing through my loop now though.


That yellow looks nice


----------



## Nornam

Hmmmmmm wonder who came up with that Yellow Aurora Colour







......I do Have some myself, just not had a chance yet to put in a full system, Only ever had it in the small mixing loop I had for trying out Dyes with the Aurora when I did the Vids awhile back..

It does look good in a full loop I have to say & this is the first complete loop I've seen it in









N.


----------



## teamrushpntball

It does indeed look amazing in person. Planning to run it until after Christmas when I'll switch to just yellow pastel.


----------



## Frozenoblivion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BioHzrd*
> 
> My rig running Mayhems Pastel
> Raspberry Purple & White
> 
> DSC_0119 by B1oHzrd, on Flickr


Sweet build
Instant +1


----------



## Hamy144

Just finished rebuilding my loop now with Mayhem Deep Blue, and I was not disappointed!


----------



## Mayhem

@Nornam yeh who did come up with it .... hahaha wasn't it named after you !!!!







Namron yellow

Snow is laying out side so its time to OVER CLOCK in my out house .. hahaha


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> just redid my loop. new tubing. added a T connector for a drain line. ultra pure H2O. 20 drops of red dye.
> lookin good so far
> 
> obviously leak testing right now


added 4ml of blue diluted in water to 25 drops of red in ultra pure water... oooh its a nice nice blood red now


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> just redid my loop. new tubing. added a T connector for a drain line. ultra pure H2O. 20 drops of red dye.
> lookin good so far
> 
> obviously leak testing right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> added 4ml of blue diluted in water to 25 drops of red in ultra pure water... oooh its a nice nice blood red now
Click to expand...

You quote yourself, say you updated, and don't post a pic! I hope you at least post a pic to redeem yourself


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> You quote yourself, say you updated, and don't post a pic! I hope you at least post a pic to redeem yourself












redeemed yet?


----------



## GoodInk

Looks much better


----------



## eskamobob1

I was looking into Mayhem's pastels for my next build, and i was wondering if anyone has a real vibrant purple (im not going for UV, just a nice dark, sharp purple color)... I will most likely be going dual loops, and am also thinking about having one be Orange and the other be Purple... the plan so far is to have the entire mobo side of teh case tubeless and have a clear separation between the GPUs and the CPU, RAM, and Mobo loop... how do you guys think this would look?

NOTE: i have already seen how to adjust the Orange to be more vibrant with red dye


----------



## Mayhem

The purple is a mid tone to get it darker just add more purple dye.


----------



## eskamobob1

Great







... Ty for the help... Though I guess you are kinda the expert


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> I was looking into Mayhem's pastels for my next build, and i was wondering if anyone has a real vibrant purple (im not going for UV, just a nice dark, sharp purple color)... I will most likely be going dual loops, and am also thinking about having one be Orange and the other be Purple... the plan so far is to have the entire mobo side of teh case tubeless and have a clear separation between the GPUs and the CPU, RAM, and Mobo loop... how do you guys think this would look?
> NOTE: i have already seen how to adjust the Orange to be more vibrant with red dye


I'll put a picture of mine up, its pretty blueish though



It's also not completely opaque, as I diluted it to make it semi translucent.


----------



## bleeps

Just curious here... The bottle I have for Mayhems Pastel states:
Quote:


> Please keep the bottle and do not pour the coolant down the drain. Use the bottle to dispose of the fluids after use in a environmentally and safe manner.


What do we do after putting the old coolant in the bottle? Chuck it in the bin?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> I'll put a picture of mine up, its pretty blueish though
> 
> It's also not completely opaque, as I diluted it to make it semi translucent.


I really like the color!!!


----------



## walden emrys

Mayhems, you had said that you were looking into what rads had leeched acid into the coolant, did you ever find out which ones? Asking because I'm going to have a build made in a month and want to make sure that my equipment is Mayhems coolant compatible. Right now I'm planning on having a Swiftech radiator put in. Is this one of the offending rads? Also, is there anything else that might leech acid into the system other than the rads?


----------



## Mayhem

@bleeps you have a choise you can check you regulations and be environmentally responsible and dispose of it in the correct manner, You can send it back to us and we will dispose of it via our waist management program or you can tip it down the drain like 98% people do.

@walden emrys Never dealt with Swiftech rads ever so wouldn't know.








.


----------



## walden emrys

Do you know of any rads that won't leech then? Open to pretty much any company, just as long as I get to put some Red Pastel in my system!


----------



## Lutfij

well, I have an alphacool monsta 240 rad, will that leach? As I plan on gettting gigabyte orange for the loop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *walden emrys*
> 
> Mayhems, you had said that you were looking into what rads had leeched acid into the coolant, did you ever find out which ones? Asking because I'm going to have a build made in a month and want to make sure that my equipment is Mayhems coolant compatible. Right now I'm planning on having a Swiftech radiator put in. Is this one of the offending rads? Also, is there anything else that might leech acid into the system other than the rads?


Rads dont leech acid into coolant,you must be huffing paint to believe that.
The flux used to solder the rad together can be acidic,if you wash it thoroughly before install then it wont be a problem.


----------



## shremi

Mick

I am using pastel white uv blue and 2 silver coils..... But i believe i am starting to grow some algae on my loop could it be the possibility that the biocide on the coolant might have "worn out" ????? Can i add some more drops of biocide on the coolant ????

Here is a pic



I believe that i have caught it in a very earlier stage .... here is a picture and as you can see there is no real visible algae but if i look closely the res is starting to turn green-yellowish ...

Maybe you can help me out a bit man .....

Many thanks

Shremi


----------



## steelkevin

Why would you add anything to Pastel in the first place ?


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Why would you add anything to Pastel in the first place ?


Pastel has biocide in it, no need for a kill coil, I had one in my loop but I removed it when I put in the pastel.

I did however add some dye, the light red looked too pink in my rig, added some more red dye and a drop of blue to darken it up a little.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Pastel has biocide in it, no need for a kill coil, I had one in my loop but I removed it when I put in the pastel.
> I did however add some dye, the light red looked too pink in my rig, added some more red dye and a drop of blue to darken it up a little.


I was actually answering shremi xD.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I was actually answering shremi xD.


I know, I was just helping you elaborate


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Mick
> I am using pastel white uv blue and 2 silver coils..... But i believe i am starting to grow some algae on my loop could it be the possibility that the biocide on the coolant might have "worn out" ????? Can i add some more drops of biocide on the coolant ????
> Here is a pic
> 
> I believe that i have caught it in a very earlier stage .... here is a picture and as you can see there is no real visible algae but if i look closely the res is starting to turn green-yellowish ...
> Maybe you can help me out a bit man .....
> Many thanks
> Shremi


What tubing are you using??? It could be pasticizer and not algae..


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> What tubing are you using??? It could be pasticizer and not algae..


Im using durelene

Im pretty sure its algae bc a residue is starting to form on the reservoir with a green-yellowish color









Im using a silver coil fitting and when i noticed this problem the first time i added the strip to the reservoir...

I read somewhere that Oxy Clean might help .... does anybody know anything about this ????


----------



## bleeps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @bleeps you have a choise you can check you regulations and be environmentally responsible and dispose of it in the correct manner, You can send it back to us and we will dispose of it via our waist management program or you can tip it down the drain like 98% people do.


Ah, you know what? The place we take our electronics waste takes household chemicals and toxics as well. That'll be what I do when the time comes.


----------



## Powermonkey500

Bam


----------



## Mayhem

@shremi you shouldn't have any algae in there As the Pastel Blocks UV light.


----------



## eskamobob1

Lol... Had alge grow in a 30% propleen glycol solution... I was temped to leave it out of pure respect for its will to survive


----------



## steelkevin

Hi,

I've had a syringe full of Pastel Blue Berry + 5 drops of Blue Dye + DI water since I've put my rig under water which was 6/7 weeks ago.
I think you (you being michael and whoever else might be interested) should see the pictures I just took.

What you're about to see should not and probably will not happen unless you go on vacation for over 3 weeks. Well, I said that because that'd be the main reason not to boot your PC (pump) for so long. It applies to any other situation as long as you're loop doesn't run for a while (being around 3 weeks from what I've seen with the syringe).






As you can see it appears the mixture isn't homogeneous whether the Pastel, Dye or DI water doesn't blend well with the two others are all three don't doesn't really matter (or does it ? I wouldn't know...). The top of the syringe looks like just DI Water + Blue Dye (it's transparent, not "thick" as pastel"), the bottom like what's in my loop and the verry bottom (the tip) looks like Blue Berry Pastel. This is what happens when the mixture isn't stirred for a while (stirred by the pump).
Anyway, see the residue at the bottom of the glass ? Just imagine that in your blocks...

@Michael, maybe you could look into this. You could put a loop together, fill it with any Pastel Concentrate+Dye+DI water and let it sit for a month or two. Then drain it and show / tell us if the Syringe+Glass "experiment" applies to an actual loop. I can't see any reason why you would've thought about testing such a situation as it's unlikely to happen (I doubt most water coolers would let their rig sit for a month or two but I've read about some soldiers that have a water cooled PC and are sent away for weeks).


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Hi,
> I've had a syringe full of Pastel Blue Berry + 5 drops of Blue Dye + DI water since I've put my rig under water which was 6/7 weeks ago.
> I think you (you being michael and whoever else might be interested) should see the pictures I just took.
> What you're about to see should not and probably will not happen unless you go on vacation for over 3 weeks. Well, I said that because that'd be the main reason not to boot your PC (pump) for so long. It applies to any other situation as long as you're loop doesn't run for a while (being around 3 weeks from what I've seen with the syringe).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it appears the mixture isn't homogeneous whether the Pastel, Dye or DI water doesn't blend well with the two others are all three don't doesn't really matter (or does it ? I wouldn't know...). The top of the syringe looks like just DI Water + Blue Dye (it's transparent, not "thick" as pastel"), the bottom like what's in my loop and the verry bottom (the tip) looks like Blue Berry Pastel. This is what happens when the mixture isn't stirred for a while (stirred by the pump).
> Anyway, see the residue at the bottom of the glass ? Just imagine that in your blocks...
> @Michael, maybe you could look into this. You could put a loop together, fill it with any Pastel Concentrate+Dye+DI water and let it sit for a month or two. Then drain it and show / tell us if the Syringe+Glass "experiment" applies to an actual loop. I can't see any reason why you would've thought about testing such a situation as it's unlikely to happen (I doubt most water coolers would let their rig sit for a month or two but I've read about some soldiers that have a water cooled PC and are sent away for weeks).


What happened after you mixed it? Because if this was to happen in a closed loop, but shortly after starting the pump it all mixed OK, were is the issue?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> What happened after you mixed it? Because if this was to happen in a closed loop, but shortly after starting the pump it all mixed OK, were is the issue?


The syringe was liquid taken straight from my loop (I said 5 drops just to give a number), it was mixed at first. Letting it sit for a long time unmixed it and stained the bottom of the glass. What I'm worried about here is it could happen in a closed loop if the mixture isn't stirred for a while (meaning the pump isn't switched on, meaning the PC isn't, meaning the owner is away for a while like it would be the case for soldiers or people going away for a while for whatever reason) and that residue at the bottom of my glass could be in your blocks.

I'm not saying this definitely will happen in a closed loop. I'm saying it might happen and I'm asking whether or not michael and his crew have tested such a situation (which I doubt because not many people whom own water cooled PCs would let it sit for weeks) and if they believe the mixture could unmix itself if left sitting in a closed looped as it did for that syringe.

My rig gets used every day so I'm not concerned by this at all, my mayhems looks great and does what's expected from it. I just happened to notice something and thought I should report it in case it might happen in a closed loop.


----------



## ShadoX

Whats the word on clogging with Pastels?

I asked where i could buy Pastels in Australia, other than TheKoolRoom, and got a PM from someone adamant that Pastels will clog up, worse than normal Dye's do (though hes swayed me off using Monsoon compression fittings, if what he sez is true, ie issues with tubing other than Monsoon tubing, scratch stupidly easy, the little tool doesn't fit securely/comes out and scratches really easily, which sucks cause they looked good, and every build i've seen with them look pretty good and Bitspower are pretty expensive/i've had rotary leak issues in the past))
Obviously the standard Dye bomb can cause clogging especially with the modern blocks (main reason why i've been using coloured tubing/water/killcoil for like the last few years).
Though i really like the look of the Sunset Yellow but the only place i can find that stocks it (Koolroom) is stupid with their delivery charges









Has anyone run it long term (im not really sure when these came out







) that can confirm theres no issue with clogging?
I know Mayhem will say it doesn't clog







I'm after first hand accounts though

Cheers all


----------



## Fuganater

I ran Red Pastel for 6+ months. No issues. Blocks are as clean as they were brand new. I also run Orange with no issues.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> What happened after you mixed it? Because if this was to happen in a closed loop, but shortly after starting the pump it all mixed OK, were is the issue?
> 
> 
> 
> The syringe was liquid taken straight from my loop (I said 5 drops just to give a number), it was mixed at first. Letting it sit for a long time unmixed it and stained the bottom of the glass. What I'm worried about here is it could happen in a closed loop if the mixture isn't stirred for a while (meaning the pump isn't switched on, meaning the PC isn't, meaning the owner is away for a while like it would be the case for soldiers or people going away for a while for whatever reason) and that residue at the bottom of my glass could be in your blocks.
> 
> I'm not saying this definitely will happen in a closed loop. I'm saying it might happen and I'm asking whether or not michael and his crew have tested such a situation (which I doubt because not many people whom own water cooled PCs would let it sit for weeks) and if they believe the mixture could unmix itself if left sitting in a closed looped as it did for that syringe.
> 
> My rig gets used every day so I'm not concerned by this at all, my mayhems looks great and does what's expected from it. I just happened to notice something and thought I should report it in case it might happen in a closed loop.
Click to expand...

This is a good question, I'll be going away for 6 months next year and have never thought about what I should do with my PC's while I'm gone. Would it be best to drain them?


----------



## Willhemmens

I've not tried Pastel but I've had no issues with Aurora. Pastel is a pretty standard liquid so I don't see why there would be issues.


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel is a Nano Mix and after a period of time separates out as soon as you turn the pump back on it mixes in. The Nano partials have a Positive charge on them so they don't stick to each other hence you wont get any clogging unless some thing sticky is introduced into the loop. Weve had pastel sitting in a system for well over 3 months plus wich was started and had no problems.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pastel is a Nano Mix and after a period of time separates out as soon as you turn the pump back on it mixes in. The Nano partials have a Positive charge on them so they don't stick to each other hence you wont get any clogging unless some thing sticky is introduced into the loop. Weve had pastel sitting in a system for well over 3 months plus witch was started and had no problems.


Thank you


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShadoX*
> 
> Whats the word on clogging with Pastels?
> I asked where i could buy Pastels in Australia, other than TheKoolRoom, and got a PM from someone adamant that Pastels will clog up, worse than normal Dye's do (though hes swayed me off using Monsoon compression fittings, if what he sez is true, ie issues with tubing other than Monsoon tubing, scratch stupidly easy, the little tool doesn't fit securely/comes out and scratches really easily, which sucks cause they looked good, and every build i've seen with them look pretty good and Bitspower are pretty expensive/i've had rotary leak issues in the past))
> Obviously the standard Dye bomb can cause clogging especially with the modern blocks (main reason why i've been using coloured tubing/water/killcoil for like the last few years).
> Though i really like the look of the Sunset Yellow but the only place i can find that stocks it (Koolroom) is stupid with their delivery charges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone run it long term (im not really sure when these came out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) that can confirm theres no issue with clogging?
> I know Mayhem will say it doesn't clog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm after first hand accounts though
> Cheers all


PLE Sell Some of Mayhems range. They are located in W.A., so postage maybe a killer still.


----------



## Michalius

My custom mix of Pastel Green + Blue + UV Yellow/Green The colors on these pictures are almost perfectly accurate for what it looks like in the flesh too. Finally got my camera to pick it up right.

Lights on!



Lights off!


----------



## walden emrys

Alright, I think I've found the perfect tubing, Tygon 2475 High Purity Tubing. This is the kind of stuff they use in medical facilities, it doesn't have a plasticizer and it doesn't absorb compounds into the tubing walls. It is a bit more expensive though and I haven't tested it out myself, just found it online thought it might be useful to someone who has some extra money and wants to test it.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pastel is a Nano Mix and after a period of time separates out as soon as you turn the pump back on it mixes in. The Nano partials have a Positive charge on them so they don't stick to each other hence you wont get any clogging unless some thing sticky is introduced into the loop. Weve had pastel sitting in a system for well over 3 months plus witch was started and had no problems.


This makes me very happy


----------



## Mayhem

Oky Ladies and Gents im going on my first proper hols in 4 years for 4 days as of now. So ill be back in 4 days time. Have a Happy Halloween and ill answer any questions when i get back. If your desperate for an answer on any thing sling a email over to "sales at mayhems dot co dot uk" and they will deal with any requests. If its important they will phone me up while on my hols and ill find a internet shop or some thing and respond.

Take care all and happy modding ....


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Have a good vacation Mayhem.

I need a coolant that is Denver Bronco's orange. Any suggestions on what portions of each red/yellow would make a good orange? Would it be as simple as 50/50% ? I'm planning on using your Pastel coolants.


----------



## ShadoX

Cheers all

So from the pics i've seen i guess the mayhem dyes turn out a bit pastelish (not exactly like, but still looking good) depending on how much you add?

@ Michalius - Have you had any issues with those Monsoon fittings? Been told they're really easy to scratch and the wrench tool doesn't really fit right/jumps out really easily (thus scratching the finish) and people having issues with tubing (even though its the right size exactly for the fittings)? Was going to get those cause they're bit cheaper and smaller profile that Bitspower comp's but yeah if they're hard to work, might not be worth the small saving









cheers


----------



## Homeronte

Hi guys, another Pastel Blueberry Fan Here


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> This makes me very happy


I emptied the syringe in the glass, stirred with it for a couple seconds, sucked the liquid back into the syringe and as michael said, it had all mixed together again.


----------



## walden emrys

Alright you guys, I have found 3 different types of Tygon tubing that might solve your problems.

Tygon 2375 - Ultra Chemical Resistance Tubing

http://emurdock.com/tygontubing/tygon-2075.pdf
http://emurdock.com/tygontubing/tygon%202375%20v%202075%20comparison.pdf

Tygon 2475 - High Purity Tubing

http://emurdock.com/tygontubing/tygon-2275.pdf
http://emurdock.com/tygontubing/2475_2275datasheetcomparison.pdf

Tygon S-50-HL - Medical and Surgical Tubing
http://emurdock.com/tygontubing/Tygon-S50HL-Medical-Tubing.pdf

The reason why there's two links on the first two is because the formula for the 2nd Generation of that specific tubing didn't change much from the first. The first link shows the properties that the 1st Generation and 2nd Generation share and the second link shows you what properties have changed, if any. The Medical and Surgical tubing does not have a 2nd Generation as far as I know. Also, I know that the first two are *plasticizer free*, but not sure of the Medical tubing. It would be nice if someone could test this out.


----------



## barretp

Is there an ETA for pastel Orange UV? I saw one picture somewhere and that was exactly what I was looking for.


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *walden emrys*
> 
> Alright you guys, I have found 3 different types of Tygon tubing that might solve your problems.
> Tygon 2375 - Ultra Chemical Resistance Tubing
> http://emurdock.com/tygontubing/tygon-2075.pdf
> http://emurdock.com/tygontubing/tygon%202375%20v%202075%20comparison.pdf
> Tygon 2475 - High Purity Tubing
> http://emurdock.com/tygontubing/tygon-2275.pdf
> http://emurdock.com/tygontubing/2475_2275datasheetcomparison.pdf
> Tygon S-50-HL - Medical and Surgical Tubing
> http://emurdock.com/tygontubing/Tygon-S50HL-Medical-Tubing.pdf
> The reason why there's two links on the first two is because the formula for the 2nd Generation of that specific tubing didn't change much from the first. The first link shows the properties that the 1st Generation and 2nd Generation share and the second link shows you what properties have changed, if any. The Medical and Surgical tubing does not have a 2nd Generation as far as I know. Also, I know that the first two are *plasticizer free*, but not sure of the Medical tubing. It would be nice if someone could test this out.


I'm using this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10692/ex-tub-664/Tygon_2375_Ultra_Chemical_Resistant_Plasticizer_Free_Tubing_-_38_ID_58_OD_-_Clear_AJK00029.html?id=Kj3vX8Sx&mv_pc=222

It's not as easy to work with as Primochill, but I was tired of messing with the plasticizer issues.
It's also not as clear as the Primochill out of the box, but it is much clearer than the Primochill was after a month.


----------



## walden emrys

So, do you have Mayhems Pastel, if so do you notice the tubing changing color?


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *walden emrys*
> 
> So, do you have Mayhems Pastel, if so do you notice the tubing changing color?


The coolant in this build is EK. It has been fine so far. Going to put Mayhem's in my wife's when I rebuild it.

The issue I had with the primochill was not discoloration from coolant, but rather the white film buildup in the tubes.

Have you had an issue with colored coolant staining tubing?


----------



## walden emrys

No, I'm still putting stuff together for a first build, but Mayhem's posted that Tygon tubing will stain a greenish color when exposed to Mayhems Pastel. I was just wondering if the Ultra Chemical Resistant or the High Purity Tygon's tubing did this as well.


----------



## ShadoX

[edit] Delete this, moved to the plasticizer thread


----------



## Mayhem

We need to change that to specific Types of tubing as Primochill and Tygon have different types and it only seems to effect one type at the moment. How ever from comments from our users plastersizer free tubing seems to be the best so far.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We need to change that to specific Types of tubing as Primochill and Tygon have different types and it only seems to effect one type at the moment. How ever from comments from our users plastersizer free tubing seems to be the best so far.


what tubing has the absolute best rep with your prodects so far? i was thinking about dyrlene toobing, but im unsure (i havent realy started to look yet)


----------



## Mayhem

To be honist i don't know as there is that many different types and we have never found the perfect tubing since the day i started water cooling.

Its best to go with what you can afford. I haven't tested the none leeching stuff my self as its not readily available in the UK.


----------



## lowfat

Tygon R3603 definitely did plasticize when I used distilled + Deep blue.

Tygon B-44-4X definitely did plasticize when I used distilled + red.

Tygon B-44-3 does turn cloudly when I used it w/ a mix of deep blue + Ice Dragon + distilled. However it was different. The tubing cleared up on its own after it dried in the air. So I think it might have to do w/ the nano particles or whatever they are called.


----------



## walden emrys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Tygon R3603 definitely did plasticize when I used distilled + Deep blue.
> Tygon B-44-4X definitely did plasticize when I used distilled + red.
> Tygon B-44-3 does turn cloudly when I used it w/ a mix of deep blue + Ice Dragon + distilled. However it was different. The tubing cleared up on its own after it dried in the air. So I think it might have to do w/ the nano particles or whatever they are called.


Do you think you can test Tygon 2375 Ultra Chemical Resistance Tubing with Mayhem's Pastel?


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> what tubing has the absolute best rep with your prodects so far? i was thinking about dyrlene toobing, but im unsure (i havent realy started to look yet)


Feser tubing shows no signs of Plasticizer with Mayhems products.


----------



## wrxxx

ive used primochill on most my builds and havent seen any huge issues? only issue i have seen so far was with my tygon turning brownish/dull.


----------



## Blaze0303

Thanks for shipping this all the way to Japan Mayhems!


----------



## Rickles

My duralene didn't leech at all, it was pretty stained after using the UV pink dye though.. The staining is what caused my UV purple effect to fade









However, Mayhems told me it would stain, I just didn't think it would stain that bad.

Side note: I may even use it to make my own pink tubing just got to pull my test sample out of the mixture.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh UV Pink is a Bugger for staining. We try our best to warn people about it


----------



## itoxiczzhd

Does the pink pastel stain as well or is it just the dye?


----------



## Rickles

i dont know if the pastel I made stained, but I can't remember if i put a drop or two of the pink in it... I'll put a picture up of what my pastel looks like and I can drop a piece of clear tube in if you want...


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itoxiczzhd*
> 
> Does the pink pastel stain as well or is it just the dye?


any pink will stain terribly... the pastel is just a dye added to a white nano coolent, so it has the same effects as the dye in general (though it may be to a slightly lesser degree)


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> any pink will stain terribly... the pastel is just a dye added to a white nano coolent, so it has the same effects as the dye in general (though it may be to a slightly lesser degree)


This is correct







Pink stains badly and it cannot be avoided. The reason for this is they dye its self is a (trys not to swear) nightmare for staining because it contain a product called Rhodamine which is well known in the industry to stain plastics, rubber or silicones and some metals.

Ref for you to read -> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhodamine The main products used by manufactures of water cooling fluids are Rhodamine B and Rhodamine 6G. Both of these chemicals are added to Products such as UV Red (mix of Red + Rhodamine or just Rhodamine on its own), UV Blood Red or any colour were the UV aspect of the colour is red.

This is the reason why we now no longer add it to our Blood Red mix of solutions and only to our UV Red mixes.

BTW Rhodamine 6B - looks pink normally and Under UV looks Pink, Rhodamine 6G Looks orange and under UV looks pink.

So The colours below normally contain Rhodamine in one form or another.

UV Red
UV Blood Red
UV Pink
UV Orange

Colours that do not contain it are

Red
Blood Red
Orange
Pink (if mixed using one or more colours other than UV colours)

Please remember though this is dye only not "pigments". UV pigments do not stain and fall under a different process completely. E.g UV pink pigment will not stain your system but unless using a nano pigment could possibly block your system if not suspended correctly. This is some thing we have been looking into for quite a while. UV Pigments are commonly based on crushed plastics into a fine powder base and then suspended with mediums. The colour stays with in the pigments and do not leach out of the plastic that it is contained in.


----------



## eskamobob1

i was kinda wondering if there was a reason for not doing more pigments (if im not mistaken the pastel base is technicaly a type of pigmant)... good to her you are working on something not realy in the market yet... cant wait to see how it turn out









also, if i run pastel, would i be able to have an inline filter (the AQ one)? the particles on their own should pass through it just fine, but im unsure if there would be enough attraction forces when mass amounts travel through the mesh to mess it up


----------



## Mayhem

We do not recommend using any filter in a system i personally think there the worse idea going. The reason behind my thinking s that if you block a Filter for any reason then all you do is build back pressure. this then causes the tubing to expand and not only can destroy your pump but will blow the tubing off the connectors. All you are doing is adding into you system another problem that solves no real issue. If and only if filters had a by pass so that once the filter was clogged the water would then by pass the filter would it be any good.

Do not use any of Mayhems Pastel or Aurora with in line filters.


----------



## JohnnyEars

*Do not use any of Mayhems Pastel or Aurora with in line filters.*

Top tip Mike, you should add this to your front page of do's and don'ts


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We do not recommend using any filter in a system i personally think there the worse idea going. The reason behind my thinking s that if you block a Filter for any reason then all you do is build back pressure. this then causes the tubing to expand and not only can destroy your pump but will blow the tubing off the connectors. All you are doing is adding into you system another problem that solves no real issue. If and only if filters had a by pass so that once the filter was clogged the water would then by pass the filter would it be any good.
> Do not use any of Mayhems Pastel or Aurora with in line filters.


fair enough







... i mainly run a filter for my inital flush of everything beofre my blocks are hooked up, but i did a build not to long ago with an AQ inline, and i kinda liked it, so i thought i would ask









EDIT: i agree with johnny


----------



## Mayhem

It says it on all our bottles ...







.


----------



## Mayhem

"Good news every one!"




Frozen CPU will be stocking Mayhems products very soon. We have a rather large shipment going over very soon







. Please remember though all support for Mayhems product lines are handled via us so if you have any questions on our range of products just ask away and we will answer them.


----------



## eskamobob1

that great







... i will be placing an large order with them in the next couple months anyways


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> "Good news every one!"
> 
> 
> 
> Frozen CPU will be stocking Mayhems products very soon. We have a rather large shipment going over very soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Please remember though all support for Mayhems product lines are handled via us so if you have any questions on our range of products just ask away and we will answer them.


Congrats on expanding your business


----------



## HPF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We do not recommend using any filter in a system i personally think there the worse idea going.


A coarse filter is actually a great idea. Put it in a tank and it will catch almost all the airbubbles and evacuate them to the top in less than a minute. It will catch particles and give you an instant view of your watercooled system "health".


----------



## Mayhem

Dye Pics Updated - All the Dyes now come in 15ml Bottles
The new bottles are especially made for Mayhems (thicker than normal) and can with stand my fat ass jumping on them with a easy to release and reseal top and Tamper evident release strip

The dyes have a shelf life of 3 years + 2 years once opened (if kept in a dark cool place)










Yellow (used in Pastel sunset yellow)

UV Yellow Green

UV Pink

Laszer Green Under UV (much greener and brighter in real life) New Colour

UV Green much greener under normal light

UV Clear Blue

Red

Blue

Deep Red (new colour)

Emerald Green

UV Laser Green

Ocean Blue New colour

Orange

Purple


----------



## steelkevin

It'll be weird not seeing the dye through the bottle anymore but I guess it's for the best.
15mL ? Was it 5 or 10 before ? (just checked the cupboard, yes, I keep the empty bottles







, they were 10mL)
I suppose the price remain the same (not the same as the lower mL bottle but the same per mL, so the 15mL would be more expensive than those it replaced but would still have the same price/mL), right ?

The two new colours (Ocean Blue and Deep Red) look great


----------



## Mayhem

Nope 15ml is 0.50p cheaper than the 10mls were.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Nope 15ml is 0.50p cheaper than the 10mls were.


I confused myself. Is it 0.50p cheaper on the Price ? OR:
Say the 10ml is £5: 5*1.5-0.50
so the 15mL would be either, a) £7 or b) £4.50

I would just check myself but neither aquatuning nor the second local retailer (docmicro) have the new ones in stock yet.


----------



## wrxxx

So i bought some red and dark blue to try and make a dark blood red. The res looks ok still not dark red but the tubes are still only pinkish, do i just need to keep putting more red in the system? Im at probibly a 1/5 of the bottle right now. Also wish Performance PC got the 15ml bottles in so i didnt have to pay the same price the 15's are going for. Let me know what i can do to get a dark red. I almost want it red/blackish dark


----------



## Blaze0303

Hmm, I like that ocean blue


----------



## Mayhem

@steelkevin you can see them here they only got released last Friday -> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/dyes.html

@wrxxx same as above.


----------



## wrxxx

to make it dark how much red do you think i will have to add? the whole bottle?


----------



## Mayhem

I don't know you need to judge that your self. You make the colour you wish.

If you what to learn better how to mix colours download this little program V1 (is free) - http://different-color.com/DifferentColorSoftwareV1.zip

It shows you pretty close how to get a deeper colour and give you a Mix Ratio for different colours. This is real handy for any one to use to make there own colours.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrxxx*
> 
> So i bought some red and dark blue to try and make a dark blood red. The res looks ok still not dark red but the tubes are still only pinkish, do i just need to keep putting more red in the system? Im at probibly a 1/5 of the bottle right now. Also wish Performance PC got the 15ml bottles in so i didnt have to pay the same price the 15's are going for. Let me know what i can do to get a dark red. I almost want it red/blackish dark


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrxxx*
> 
> to make it dark how much red do you think i will have to add? the whole bottle?


If it's pinkish, it sounds like you need more blue, but take it slow. If you put too much blue in there it will start to turn a grape color.


----------



## wrxxx

should i just ad a drop or should i dilute a drop and add that. there is probibly 30 drops or so in the loop right now


----------



## eskamobob1

How much water is in ur loop? And if there are already 30 drops of just blue, then you should be fine adding 1 drop at a time since that would mean (I assume) that your loop has a massive amount of water in it


----------



## wrxxx

half a gallon or so and 30 drops of red, how much blue good ink i want exactly your color!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrxxx*
> 
> half a gallon or so and 30 drops of red, how much blue good ink i want exactly your color!


If you talking about this pic, it was a little grape colored. I hit step 5 below










Well this is how I made mine.

1. Filled loop with distilled water, a little over 1L

2. Keep adding red, about 5 more drops after it stops turning anymore red, guessing 15-20 drops

3. I daluted my blue in small glass with 1 drop

4. Used a straw to keep adding a little at a time, let it mix very good in the loop about 1-2 mins until it a nice dark red

5. If it turns grape on you, you can try to drain some, add water, red


----------



## steelkevin

I don't know how long you've been waiting for an answer but really it's nothing complicated. Just add a drop of blue. If you're afraid it might turn too dark put on drop on like a clean ruler (riced with DI water) and dip the tip in. That way you're sure you won't go overboard and too dark. From then just keep adding what you're confident with.

I don't think you can really go wrong like that mate.

@whoever, I added almost a full 10mL bottle of blue to a litre of Pastel Blue Berry. That's like a hundred drops







.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> If you talking about this pic, it was a little grape colored. I hit step 5 below


This looks good. Real Blood Red


----------



## Mayhem

wait till the new deep red dye hits the shelf for clear fluids you wont need blue at all. Its blood red once you hit starauction. It will be out with in the next week or so as i just haven't had time to make it into batches just yet.

Pic of it on my desk below ->


----------



## ginger_nuts

When it comes to mixing colors, would I better off pre-mixing before adding it to the loop?

ie. Filling loop with distilled to say 95-97% mark, removing the distilled, mixing colors with said distilled, then filling loop again with my new color.

I am thinking this will allow me to get the color I want, without worrying about it mixing correctly in the res. or loop.


----------



## teamrushpntball

I've got a question for ya, how would I go about making a copper colored fluid? I'm currently running the Namron Yellow (Amazing by the way), and have some Pastel Yellow for when I change that out sometime soon. Which brings me to my hope, an almost metallic copper color. My blocks are all Plexi/Copper so I think it would look awesome with it flowing around.

Here's what I was thinking:

2 Parts Pastel Chocolate Brown
1 Part Aurora Gold
9 Parts Distilled

Is it ok to mix Aurora and Pastel? I know Aurora isn't meant for extended use (Any time my pc is off it seems to lose a little bit of it's luster due to settling in nooks and crannies) but will it be ok for a decent while in this scenario? And does anyone have a better idea for coming up with that color?


----------



## Mayhem

@ginger_nuts I all ways mix in a 1 Ltr Glass jug then add. Others mix in system. So its up to you.

@teamrushpntball We have stopped producing pastel brown as it wasn't a good seller. Ppl have be know to mix Pastel and Aurora together how ever we personally dont recommend it .. Since both Pastel and Aurora contain the same base chemicals it will not have a chemical reaction its just the length of time aurora will work is the problem.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> If you talking about this pic, it was a little grape colored. I hit step 5 below
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well this is how I made mine.
> 
> 1. Filled loop with distilled water, a little over 1L
> 2. Keep adding red, about 5 more drops after it stops turning anymore red, guessing 15-20 drops
> 3. I daluted my blue in small glass with 1 drop
> 4. Used a straw to keep adding a little at a time, let it mix very good in the loop about 1-2 mins until it a nice dark red
> 5. If it turns grape on you, you can try to drain some, add water, red


but another reason it may turn purple is the acidity in the components. mine changed twice already


----------



## ShadoX

Hey guys quick question, was filling up last night with sunset yellow and one of my fittings had a small leak (cpu), dripped down through my NB heatpipe heatsink (Asus P5Q Deluxe) onto the top PCI slots (stopping at the already mounted GFX card), fixed up the leak, cleaned up the mess just wondering if there's anything special i should do when cleaning this coolant up? I noticed i actually got inside the PCI slots so i slide the edges of tissues into the slots to soak it up (kept going till the tissues weren't picking up any yellow







), still, without removing everything/washing mobo and drying out in rice/etc, is there anything i should do or do you think it'll be clean dry enough? It'll probably be another day or so before it gets powered up either way

Cheers


----------



## Mayhem

I would fully dry off the system before use again , you can use a hair dryer or some thing like that. Dust is the biggest killer when using liquids.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> wait till the new deep red dye hits the shelf for clear fluids you wont need blue at all. Its blood red once you hit starauction. It will be out with in the next week or so as i just haven't had time to make it into batches just yet.
> Pic of it on my desk below ->


Pinhead 4TW!


----------



## ShadoX

Cool, i have died it off, plus it'll have a couple of days to naturally dry off, just was worried about residue (if any) left over by a evaporated pastel


----------



## Mayhem

Once dried off you should be fine.


----------



## eskamobob1

if im not mistaken the any residue the dyes leave behind should be non-conductive... also, if you realy wanted to be sure you could use a pipet to clean out the socket and dry it again


----------



## walden emrys

Alright, really need some help here with Mayhems compatiblility with certain tubing. Going to put pastel in my system and I don't want tubing with plasticizer in it. I've narrowed it down to two types, Tygon Ultra Chemical Resistant and Primochill Advanced (the one that just came out). Has anyone used a system with these two types of tubing while using the pastel type of coolant? If you did, did you experience any discoloration? I would really appreciate it if someone answered soon, going to need some kind of tubing within the next two weeks and I really don't want to use Durelene because it has plasticizer in it.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *walden emrys*
> 
> Alright, really need some help here with Mayhems compatiblility with certain tubing. Going to put pastel in my system and I don't want tubing with plasticizer in it. I've narrowed it down to two types, Tygon Ultra Chemical Resistant and Primochill Advanced (the one that just came out). Has anyone used a system with these two types of tubing while using the pastel type of coolant? If you did, did you experience any discoloration? I would really appreciate it if someone answered soon, going to need some kind of tubing within the next two weeks and I really don't want to use Durelene because it has plasticizer in it.


I had purchased some Primochill tubing for my build, but it was not the newest version. After reading what the offical Mayhem's response was about Primochill and Tygon, I decided to go with XSPC Ultra Flex tubing instead, which is listed as compatible and won't discolor. Personally, I would go with something like that since not many have tested the newer versions. Maybe Mayhem's will chime in and can do some official testing on those new versions to find out, but it will take time as they don't discolor overnight. That's why I wanted something that works NOW and don't have to worry about it unless for some reason I want to change it in a year or two when I clean the WC parts.


----------



## Mayhem

Ive spoken to a Primochill rep on FB about the new tubing and ive been told its works just fine. I personally cannot confirm this as of yet but as soon as i can i will do. If any other people have tested this out it would be nice to see some responses.


----------



## RKTGX95

Mayhem, could you give me a general idea of how much red dye (drops) i would need for a average loop (GPU, CPU, 2 rads, xspc bay res with d5 and MoBo VRM block) to make it simply red. not light red, not blood red but simply *RED* with a bit of a lean to coca cola (dark) red tone (not too much)

i just don't want too much red dye because it would obviously stain, especially red. (and does clearflex 60 work well with your dyes and doesn't leech/plasticize?


----------



## Mayhem

The red dyes are fine on there own its when you add UV Pink into them to make them UV active that you get staining.

There is no such thing as average sorry to say. All so it all depends on what depth of colour you need but as long as you don't add UV pink into it you should be fine with hardly any staining. Ive used up to 20mls in one loop before and its been fine to get a deep ruby red that looked nearly black until light was shone on it.


----------



## Homeronte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *walden emrys*
> 
> Alright, really need some help here with Mayhems compatiblility with certain tubing. Going to put pastel in my system and I don't want tubing with plasticizer in it. I've narrowed it down to two types, Tygon Ultra Chemical Resistant and Primochill Advanced (the one that just came out). Has anyone used a system with these two types of tubing while using the pastel type of coolant? If you did, did you experience any discoloration? I would really appreciate it if someone answered soon, going to need some kind of tubing within the next two weeks and I really don't want to use Durelene because it has plasticizer in it.


I think is too early to talk about the Primochil advanced tubing since its been launched a week ago, you just have to try it yourself or wait a few more weeks (or months).

Tygon Ultra Chemical Restintant is not crystal clear tubing, i don't think that any dye or pastel fluid will shine with that, but at least you don't have to deal with plasticizer.

I recomend you Durelene, it's cheap, take long time to cloud and it's proven that its crystal clear for a while too. Choice is yours.


----------



## walden emrys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Homeronte*
> 
> I think is too early to talk about the Primochil advanced tubing since its been launched a week ago, you just have to try it yourself or wait a few more weeks (or months).
> Tygon Ultra Chemical Restintant is not crystal clear tubing, i don't think that any dye or pastel fluid will shine with that, but at least you don't have to deal with plasticizer.
> I recomend you Durelene, it's cheap, take long time to cloud and it's proven that its crystal clear for a while too. Choice is yours.


I am going to be using Blood Red Pastel so its fine if the tubing isn't super clear, just don't want any discoloration or pasticizer leaching. I know, hoping that someone has already tested Primochill advanced is wishful thinking. Hopefully someone eventually does it though. I guess I'm probably going to go with Tygon Ultra Chemical Resistant.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The red dyes are fine on there own its when you add UV Pink into them to make them UV active that you get staining.
> There is no such thing as average sorry to say. All so it all depends on what depth of colour you need but as long as you don't add UV pink into it you should be fine with hardly any staining. Ive used up to 20mls in one loop before and its been fine to get a deep ruby red that looked nearly black .


Thanks Mayhem, now i have (almost) no concerns









i guess that the shade of red is everyone's personal thing, so i think i'll be fine. (for how many loops would one bottle suffice?)

also, what do you mean by _"until light was shone on it"_ ? did it ruin the effect or what?


----------



## Mayhem

@RKTGX95 colour will look darker with out any light in your system. As soon as you add light they become transparent expect for pastel colours which absorb light instead and opaq. UV reflective dyes how ever reflect light back at you giving the illusion that they glow. And aurora reflects light back at you giving you the illusion its sparkling.

Blue is our strongest colour and depending on how deep you would like the colour can fill a bath tub of water blue. Red is about 1/4 as strong as Blue so should fill at least 4 to 6 systems depending on the colour you need.

Since the new dyes now come in 15ml bottles this gives you 50% head room to play with for less than cost than it was before.


----------



## BorisTheSpider

Hi Mayhem,

Have you any suggestions regarding this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1327417/mayhems-aurora-depositing-on-plexi-blocks-how-to-clean

I am getting some depositing from aurora on my blocks, and am hoping to avoid having to open them up to clean them. Someone has suggested trying a flush with 50:50 water/vinegar, any other suggestions?


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @RKTGX95 colour will look darker with out any light in your system. As soon as you add light they become transparent expect for pastel colours which absorb light instead and opaq. UV reflective dyes how ever reflect light back at you giving the illusion that they glow. And aurora reflects light back at you giving you the illusion its sparkling.
> Blue is our strongest colour and depending on how deep you would like the colour can fill a bath tub of water blue. Red is about 1/4 as strong as Blue so should fill at least 4 to 6 systems depending on the colour you need.
> Since the new dyes now come in 15ml bottles this gives you 50% head room to play with for less than cost than it was before.


i just wanted to add a bit of white lighting to showcase the build as a whole. (since any other colour would kill the carefully picked theme)
i think that a single, not long White, LED strip would suffice for that. (and why red is so weak compared to the blue?)

any idea when PPCS would get the new dyes? (is it anytime soon or should i just buy the existing one)


----------



## Mayhem

@BorisTheSpider answered it in you question.

@RKTGX95 Will need to clear there 10ml versions first before they get more in. Like any other company that has the 10ml in.


----------



## GoodInk

I'm having a problem with one of my rigs. I have red pastel in both but one is turning a different color, this is the same system I had a very bad plastercizer problem, link. I replaced the tubing and flushed the system with hot tap water for 30 mins, then filled it with the pastel. I have tried using a ph strip, but it sucked up the dye and I can't see what color it is. I'm guessing my ph level is high, I plan on draining it and filling it with distilled plus baking soda, how much should I use and how long should I let it run?


----------



## Mayhem

When i use the baking soda trick i use about 1 to 2 tea spoons per 1 Ltr and leave it for about 1/2 hour then rise out. then i test with DI water in just to check PH levels. And then use new fluids. Its a very rare occasion this happens when red changes colour but 99.9% it really is down to the PH of the water. The new red were working on is more tolerant with a wider PH range than what we currently use.


----------



## conntick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ive spoken to a Primochill rep on FB about the new tubing and ive been told its works just fine. I personally cannot confirm this as of yet but as soon as i can i will do. If any other people have tested this out it would be nice to see some responses.


MyBadOmen will attest to it being solid, and having no clouding issues. However he seems to be an absolute zealot about it. Kinda smells like some money exchanged hands in order to boost the rep of the stuff.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conntick*
> 
> MyBadOmen will attest to it being solid, and having no clouding issues. However he seems to be an absolute zealot about it. Kinda smells like some money exchanged hands in order to boost the rep of the stuff.


Well, he did also say that he had no clouding issues with the Pro LRT, so saying that the Advanced LRT doesn't cloud doesn't really say much before it's been tested.


----------



## MrGrievous

hey there Mayhem or to anyone else that may know, I wanted ask how you think some in line light ports would work with a pastel series coolant? I'd imagine that it would be blocked out by the pastel


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> When i use the baking soda trick i use about 1 to 2 tea spoons per 1 Ltr and leave it for about 1/2 hour then rise out. then i test with DI water in just to check PH levels. And then use new fluids. Its a very rare occasion this happens when red changes colour but 99.9% it really is down to the PH of the water. The new red were working on is more tolerant with a wider PH range than what we currently use.


Thanks


----------



## Mayhem

@MrGrievous you may get a very faint glow from the in line led light but don't count on it.


----------



## Mayhem

We are release 4 New products over the next few weeks.

First up we have two New Blue dyes. One being "Deep Blue" and the second being "Ocean Blue"

Below is a Pic of all three blues together to give you a better idea of what they look like.

Left New Mayhems Deep Blue Dye
Centre Old Mayhems Blue Dye
Right New Mayhems Ocean Blue Dye










The new Deep Blue dye has a deep blue look to it then the older blue dye and can be seen down to the PPM (parts per million)
The new Ocean Blue Dye has a greenish tinge to it (very slight) giving it a oceanic kind of blue look (depending on were you live as in the UK its would just look green haha).

Both these new colours will be out in 15ml Bottles and both will fill more than 10 to 15+ systems each. When using with Pastel is reduced to about about 5 to 10 systems depending on amount used.


----------



## steelkevin

Wow, that deep blue looks crazy Oo.

Would it be possible for you to tell us the doses used in each of those "tubes" ? Like the mL of liquid those contain and how many drops were used for each (I suppose you used the same amounts of water and dye in every one of them).


----------



## badtaylorx

im looking to do a "Sabbertooth" green in pastel. If i mix the "sunset yellow" with "berry blue" will i get the satin green im looking for???


----------



## Mayhem

@steelkevin 800ml water to 0.40ml

@Are you mixing in pastel if so ill knock up a few different greens so you can see. If you after a army type green Pastel + Emerald green gets pretty close.


----------



## badtaylorx

i guess army green would be what you'd call it......










i want to match this board....im guessing many others would do the same


----------



## Mayhem




----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*


Yummy


----------



## WebsterXC

I don't know if this has been posted before, but FrozenCPU now offers Mayhems dyes and pastels:

http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=hFTnknn5&searchspec=mayhems&go.x=0&go.y=0


----------



## badtaylorx

soooo... @Mayhems just to confirm, green Pastel + Emerald green will achive a "pastel army green" ish look???

id like to place my order today if possible

thanx

bTx


----------



## Mayhem

no erm pastel+ emerald green will, never tried with pastel green + emerald green together.


----------



## badtaylorx

Hmmm... may try the pas. yellow + pas. berry blue then.....WTH, Columbus took a chance, right???

or are you saying that id be better off with Pastel UV White Coolant with emerald green dye???


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> Hmmm... may try the pas. yellow + pas. berry blue then.....WTH,
> *Columbus took a chance, right???[B/]
> or are you saying that id be better off with Pastel UV White Coolant with emerald green dye???*


He did and found Africa right









I'm just mess with you. Hey just did some upgrades in my rig and it almost done for some pictures andoof course with mayhems liquid's in my loop`s







Gona try to make this pastel+red shine in my loop. Any input?


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> Hmmm... may try the pas. yellow + pas. berry blue then.....WTH,
> *Columbus took a chance, right???[B/]
> or are you saying that id be better off with Pastel UV White Coolant with emerald green dye???*
> 
> 
> 
> He did and found Africa right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just mess with you. Hey just did some upgrades in my rig and it almost done for some pictures andoof course with mayhems liquid's in my loop`s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gona try to make this pastel+red shine in my loop. Any input?
Click to expand...

Red LED's makes mine look as if it's glowing from the light hitting the clear tubing







 But I'm guessing that's not what you are asking, make sure you set your white balance on your cam in the lighting that you are going to take the pic, lowest ISO, tripod, and soft lighting.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Red LED's makes mine look as if it's glowing from the light hitting the clear tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'm guessing that's not what you are asking, make sure you set your white balance on your cam in the lighting that you are going to take the pic, lowest ISO, tripod, and soft lighting.


My FC9 just arrived I just hook up it now i does looks way better than my old FC5 v2. I need to finish my two back panel hole exhaust for my 240 rad push pull now. I'm work on the pasel+red now let's see if i can manage to make it right.

update: i just removed the FC9 knobs. looks way better now with just a tiny knob now.


----------



## badtaylorx

so i take it that "PrimoFlex Pro LRT Clear Tubing" is still a NO-GO?


----------



## paopaovocal

*May I join this club.
*
*Here is my rig with Mayhems aurora supernova concentrate.*

















*More pics* *here*

*Here is my video.*


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*


I want her how much the shipping for USA







i will put here right beside my bed , I mean my RiG


----------



## Mayhem

@paopaovocal that looks like a wicked vid you have done there. But .. you have a bay res (crys) it wont last that long .. how ever it certainly has given the effect you need.


----------



## ShadoX

Finally, officially a Pastel user









PC's not finished (waiting on some more bits and pieces to turn up, mainly PSU related (sleeving







) and havn't decided on lights (pulled out my blue Cathode....dunno if i'll go blue again, or one of the other 5 or so colours i've got....or if i'll switch to LED lighting since the Cathode never really lit this case up well)

Pic'ies









_Filling up







_


during the leak test
   

Will post the final product when i get the final bits together, but may be a while cause theres some on back order


----------



## MillerModPCs

Hi Mayhem

I have a quick question and ive been thinking hard about it for a week now lol

I want a Pastel UV Blue just like your blue pastel color but UV reactive. Ive read through the posts and it seems someone else wanted it as well. You mentioned just getting Pastel UV White and adding deep blue dye to it though would i have to worry about PH levels diluting the blue?

I dont want white so im afraid of that happening. Also will adding blue dye diminish the UV effect?

Or should i just get Blue Pastel and add clear UV Blue dye? Which would have the best blue/UV effect?

I also like the x1 UV Blue does that have a somewhat strong UV effect? Havnt seen to many videos on that.

Im trying to decide between the pastel UV or the X1 UV blue. If you think the Patel white UV with blue dye would work good ill order that ASAP. Also what tubing would you recommend for that setup? I had your Aurora Nebula Blue with Primochill tubing and had a bad experience and would like to avoid that again. Sorry for all the questions but any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks!


----------



## Mayhem

Its a very fine balance between UV Clear blue and deep blue colours so its best to start off with white and clear UV blue to you get your subtle glow. Once you have that slow add you blue. Once the glow start fading you know you've reached the point were you may start adding to my normally blue dye. It wont effect the PH balance and Blue and UV blue have quite a high tolerance.


----------



## DigitalMonkey

Maybe I missed the info on this. But what's the main difference between XT-1 and X1?

Thanks


----------



## MillerModPCs

Thank you so much for the quick reply

Just so i understand completely your saying all i need is Pastel White (non UV) and add Clear/Blue UV dye until i get a glow that i like. Then add your deep blue dye but not so much where the glow starts fading right?
As a customer, your one on one help means the world ill be buying from you forever Thanks!


----------



## Mayhem

@DigitalMonkey X1 Vegtable extract, XT-1 Glycol

@MillerModPCs You can use UV white if you wish. But yes as for the rest of it your correct. If you get stuck just ask







.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @DigitalMonkey X1 Vegtable extract, XT-1 Glycol
> 
> @MillerModPCs You can use UV white if you wish. But yes as for the rest of it your correct. If you get stuck just ask
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I thought glycol was bad. Isn't that what can cause gunk?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I thought glycol was bad. Isn't that what can cause gunk?


I could be wrong, but my understanding is it isn't glycol that gunks up, it is the iso's ( I think that is what they are nicked named) they use for coloring that does.

Not sure if Mayhems uses the same coloring chemicals or not?


----------



## PandaSPUR

Phew.. just read through a whole 84 pages in the past few days.

Planning on doing a custom loop for my new FT02 setup.

Looking to do seafoam green, I think I saw something similar to it earlier in the thread.

Not interested in running UV, the case will only have white LEDs.
So I assume I can just mix white pastel + green dye? Maybe a teeny bit of blue.

Currently the case is all black, inside and out. With some red bits on the motherboard, gpu, and memory.
I want to add some nice seafoam green/light green to the mix to brighten things up.

Might look a bit christmas-y but I think it'll be good. Opinions?

Oh also, can someone show me a setup that uses 3/8 ID 1/2 OD tubing?
I'm trying to decide what tubing I want. From what I've read, it really makes no impact on performance or anything other than aesthetics.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I thought glycol was bad. Isn't that what can cause gunk?


glycol is considered bad cause it is toxic... it is also a bit harsher, and can cause some tubing deterioration is large percentages (70% glycaol+)... that said, mayhems glycol is rather diluted and should cause no problems at all... it also makes the best bioside i have ever used... i ran a system with a 50% glycol solution for 2+ years and never ran into issues... i would personaly go glycol if your not worried about animals or kids getting into you comp
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I could be wrong, but my understanding is it isn't glycol that gunks up, it is the iso's ( I think that is what they are nicked named) they use for coloring that does.
> Not sure if Mayhems uses the same coloring chemicals or not?


depending on how dye is made and what materials are used it can gunk up... that said, more commonly then not the dye does not cause the clog, it just stains the material and makes it more noticable (the exceptions here are a lot of the older UV solutions that do actualy clog a bunch)... glycol also flushes a system better then normal water, which is why you can get some more build up when you do your inital flush (i by no means consider this a bad thing as it would be present either way)


----------



## Mayhem

@PandaSPUR if you after a sea / ocean type colour with in th next 24 Hours it will be up on our web site 15ml dyes ocean blue. This is known in the industry as "green" how ever to me and you it looks blue with a tint of green giving it a nice light colour reminiscent of ocean water. When added to pastel it gives a much lighter blue with a very slight tint of green again.

I really need to get my finger out my ass and get more photos done how ever been so bissy i just haven't had much time to set it all up.

@eskamobob1 Your knowledge is astounding







and the way you word it is perfect. thank you.

@ginger_nuts we use about Ohhhh .. en counting 25 different dyes (more to be added), 5 different types of biocide, 3 different types of Inhibitor, 2 surfactants the list goes on. Depending on which product we make depends on what we use. E.g Pastel Black uses over 3 dyes, nano fluid, Vegetable extract, Biocides, Inhibitor, surfactants, and a few other things.


----------



## charleybwoy

Cant wait to join the club! less than week







I know, i know i already added my sig









Gigabyte Orange


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @eskamobob1 Your knowledge is astounding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the way you word it is perfect. thank you.


lol... ty







... i just hapen to have a bunch of experience with glycol solutions as my first build ever was a P4 EE running my custom glycol mix and i have had to do a few for chiller builds running well below 0C







... with the dyes them selves, i know next to nothing, but im glad my mad chemist skills with toxic chemicals were useful


----------



## Mayhem

You are right about the toxicity of glycols how ever it really is dependent on the glycols used and what other chemicals are used in the glycols.

There are two main types of glycol that are used in water cooling and a 3rd product (vegetable extract) which contains no glycol (my fav material to work with).

Propylene Glycol - Is supposed to be toxic (that's debatable) have ever it is not as good as Ethylene Glycol at removing heat but is about he same as Vegetable extract (- / + 1c).

Ethylene Glycol - Is the best glycol how ever the down side is that it is normally deadly to animals and humans alike (because once the by-products are absorbed into the liver it can do irepairable damage such as kidney failure, blindness and death.). But this is were we've taken the step and we have introduced a patented DeToxTM additive that prevents Ethylene Glycol from being metabolised (during digestion) into toxic by-products, We are the "ONLY" company that has this additive in there products btw..

OFC you all so have to take into account such things as dyes , Biocides, inhibitors and any other chemicals that are thrown into the mix as they all effect the performance of the liquids and the viscosity. That's were testing has to come into the fay. But like you say as well it all depends on what the user is after and as more coolants are developed the balance can be tipped either way.

One thing that does annoy me (id like to use strong words how ever have to stick to rules) and that is some of these coolants sold by some companies have no child safety caps on and in all honesty there is no reason why they should not add them as its just a penny pinching exercise. They seem to spend more money on making there bottles look attractive then being responsible.


----------



## eskamobob1

lol... being myself, and just going for my own intresting mix, i liked a mix of ethylene glycol, methanoic acid and enough calcium chloride to get an acceptable pH... a bit weird, but at the -10 to -5 C i needed, it worked excellently







... and im sure there were better solutions to use, but even finding that one got me a decent bit of experience







... and ill have to look into vegitable based biosides since they sound intriguing


----------



## Axehand

I am looking for some photos of the XT-1 Green concentrate in a loop and want to see what type of green it is. I've looked on google to no success.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @PandaSPUR if you after a sea / ocean type colour with in th next 24 Hours it will be up on our web site 15ml dyes ocean blue. This is known in the industry as "green" how ever to me and you it looks blue with a tint of green giving it a nice light colour reminiscent of ocean water. When added to pastel it gives a much lighter blue with a very slight tint of green again.
> I really need to get my finger out my ass and get more photos done how ever been so bissy i just haven't had much time to set it all up.


Hmm that sounds interesting. I did notice your post about the ocean blue dye on the previous page. However, I'm aiming for something thats more towards green than blue, so I thought getting a green dye would be helpful.

Im aiming for something between these two colors:
http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-color/budgreen
http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-color/seafoamgreen


----------



## Mayhem

Bugger was gonna take the pastel ocean blue i made and add some green how ever ive already sent it all down to the ware house. Ill try and get a batch made up when i get some time and see if i can adjust it to you needs and get back to you.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Wow... totally was not expecting a response like that. Thanks!
You definitely have my future business haha.


----------



## Axehand

Mayhem do you have a photo of the XT-1 green coolant in the loop? Need to know so it can match my theme.


----------



## Mayhem

Not in a loop no. We only have pics of it in a Tube.


----------



## Mupp1t

My panda enjoys yours Mayhem coolant


----------



## Blaze0303

Mayhems Pastel Ice White!


----------



## eskamobob1

looks great







... and mayhem... may i direct your sights to this thread?

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?284025-Mayhems-quot-Pastel-Blue-quot-Problem

i think it may be beneficial to respond to this guy


----------



## Mayhem

on it now thank you for the heads up


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> on it now thank you for the heads up


np







... im kinda excited to hear what you recommend to clean it with tbh


----------



## Mayhem

Sysclean will do the job as well as Primochills new product for cleaning out the tube as it removes the plasticizer. Some users have reported that a mix of isopropanol and water also does a really good job how ever im quite dubious of that method as plastic can crack if they use to much. But since he hasn't contacted us directly and until he does then i wont be involved. I wont be posting on sites with trolls going at it hammer and tong.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sysclean will do the job as well as Primochills new product for cleaning out the tube as it removes the plasticizer. Some users have reported that a mix of isopropanol and water also does a really good job how ever im quite dubious of that method as plastic can crack if they use to much. But since he hasn't contacted us directly and until he does then i wont be involved. I wont be posting on sites with trolls going at it hammer and tong.


lol... dont blame you







... i have always use slightly soapy warm water to clean my stuff... works prity well imo







... i am still a little currious as to what cause that though... almost like it all just left suspension randomly


----------



## Mayhem

I know what it is. Its actually a reaction to the tubing plus acid in the system from the cleaning of the rad in the manufacturing process and mayhem pastel (all in one go). When you combine all three elements together this is what happens. Hence why we tell people not to use tygon and all so why we say flush you system properly. Bicarb will reduce this problem when you flush as system out as well.

I think i have said this several times in this forum how ever its nothing to do with each product and is no ones fault. This is one of them very rare occasions were this will happen.

We have been trying to narrow it down to which tubing it happens two how ever this is not a easy task as tubing from the same manufacturer is never the same across different batches and since they don't have batch no's it makes it worse. Its like just hitting your head on the wall some times.

Btw if the guy had contacted us first we could have proved it from a small sample of the biomass and got it looked at professionally at a company quite close to us. But alas if he doesn't send us a simple email (which is on the bottle) how are we supposed to help.


----------



## BeepBeep2

Hey Mayhem, you might want to go revise your response or make a new one. You assumed almost everything and didn't respond to anything you were supposed to. I don't think you read a thing he said tbh.

Just saying.

Hammer and tong? No.


----------



## redxmaverick

I ordered my first custom water cooling gear. Can't wait for it to arrive! But I'm a little worried about the coolant I chose. I jumped the gun on the Aurora because it looked so cool. But I read now its not recommended for everyday use although there are users out there that have used it for long term. I'm only a little worried because luckily all the WC gear I chose meets the Aurora requirements. Maybe I should play it safe and go for pastel or XT-1...


----------



## Blaze0303

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redxmaverick*
> 
> I ordered my first custom water cooling gear. Can't wait for it to arrive! But I'm a little worried about the coolant I chose. I jumped the gun on the Aurora because it looked so cool. But I read now its not recommended for everyday use although there are users out there that have used it for long term. I'm only a little worried because luckily all the WC gear I chose meets the Aurora requirements. Maybe I should play it safe and go for pastel or XT-1...


Go with the pastel or xt-1. I wouldn't take the chance of running a "show" coolent on my daily computer.


----------



## NomNomNom

How much coolant do you need for a loop? Just one cpu block and a small res.


----------



## Mayhem

1 Ltr will be enough for a normally 1 CPU loop.


----------



## BorisTheSpider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redxmaverick*
> 
> I ordered my first custom water cooling gear. Can't wait for it to arrive! But I'm a little worried about the coolant I chose. I jumped the gun on the Aurora because it looked so cool. But I read now its not recommended for everyday use although there are users out there that have used it for long term. I'm only a little worried because luckily all the WC gear I chose meets the Aurora requirements. Maybe I should play it safe and go for pastel or XT-1...


I did the same thing (brought Aurora), for the same reason as you (first loop) and I doubt you'll listen (I wouldn't have) but it's quite likely you'll end up with a messy and annoying job on your hands, trying to flush it out - in a matter of weeks if my experience is anything to go by.

I thought I was going to have to take my whole loop to bits and scrub stuff with a toothbrush.

Fortunately, I got it all out, by flushing for hours from a tap (straight through the system and out the other side) and continually taking the hose on and off the tap so as to introduce air and turbulence in the blocks to knock the stuck-on pearlescent bits loose.

Distilled and a biocide for me from now on, and I expect you'll be the same in a couple of months.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Have you gotten a chance to try making a seafoam/pastel green?

I'm hoping to get all parts for my loop by the end of december, like a xmas gift to myself haha.


----------



## mombasa

Hello modders, forumers and good OCN community.

I seek advise on whether I can mix 1L of Feser VS.C (http://www.tfc-us.com/product/feser-vsc/) with XT-1 150ml UV Blue Coolant and Di-ionised water to use it in my loop?

Will appreciate any help.

Thanks.


----------



## redxmaverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BorisTheSpider*
> 
> I did the same thing (brought Aurora), for the same reason as you (first loop) and I doubt you'll listen (I wouldn't have) but it's quite likely you'll end up with a messy and annoying job on your hands, trying to flush it out - in a matter of weeks if my experience is anything to go by.
> I thought I was going to have to take my whole loop to bits and scrub stuff with a toothbrush.
> Fortunately, I got it all out, by flushing for hours from a tap (straight through the system and out the other side) and continually taking the hose on and off the tap so as to introduce air and turbulence in the blocks to knock the stuck-on pearlescent bits loose.
> Distilled and a biocide for me from now on, and I expect you'll be the same in a couple of months.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaze0303*
> 
> Go with the pastel or xt-1. I wouldn't take the chance of running a "show" coolent on my daily computer.


Yeah. I went and ordered the XT-1. I guess the Aurora will become my new paper weight.


----------



## Atmosfear86

Hey Guys,

I'm going to be getting one of these kits as a Christmas present to myself







http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-h3o-360-hfx.html

Will this be suitable for the Pastel Range of coolant's. I'm looking at the pastel blueberry? And what should i do to prepare the loop for the pastel. I was thinking of filling with Distilled Water and bicarb and letting it run for a few days.

Also, lets say i wanted to make it darker, should i use Mayhem's Deep Blue dye?

I want it to be roughly the same colour as my GPU and ATX cables.



Thanks in advance,


----------



## Gawdz

Surely this has been asked before but I cant find it, Anyway Does Mayhems Aurora slow down the flow at all? The pearl effect seems like its moving slower then it should or is it just the effect the pearl gives?


----------



## Mayhem

@Atmosfear86 Yes rinse the kit though. you can use a small amount of bi carb as well and make sure you rinse though after using the bi carb mix. The kit works with pastel no problems.

@Gawdz It depends on he pump you are using and the blocks you have in. Im going to presume if you got concentrate you did water it down as per the instructions on the bottle.


----------



## Gawdz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Gawdz It depends on he pump you are using and the blocks you have in. Im going to presume if you got concentrate you did water it down as per the instructions on the bottle.


Haven't yet, I actually haven't purchased any parts yet but im looking at a EK DCP 2.2 pump with XSPC Raystorm CPU Block along with a 360 rad


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I just want to say Mick is a total Class A guy. I have a business project to do which involves interviewing an entrepreneur and he jumped on that like a fox on a rabbit! Total help considering it's due pretty soon so now I can get a good grade and what not.

For the record Mick likes to refer to himself as a man who loves his hobbies and not a business man. lol


----------



## HiTekJeff

I'm in the USA and having trouble finding Mayhem's Pastel White in stock at several of the known retailers. When I called to check, all they said was it was on order for some time now and they have not gotten any word as to a ship estimate or even if it is still being made.

Can Mayhem or someone chime in and let me know about where to find White Pastel in the USA and what the status is on this?

Also, I am glad to finally see the Pastel Black, which will be used as well and really hope it continues being made.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Are you checking online or local retail stores? I.E. Microcenter, Frys, etc.


----------



## Mayhem

@HiTekJeff http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/usa.html#.ULknxqzZbg0


----------



## Brandon13

Just finished my First water cooling build =) Only had one leak From the reservoir, I guess i didn't tighten the pump enough.

Everything is up and running.

Using Mayhems Pastel white.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Your loop looks backwards. Usually the far right hole is the inlet and the center most is always the inlet.


----------



## Brandon13

That was the plan but the tubing kinked so i did it reverse. Will the loop still run fine with this current setup?


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandon13*
> 
> Just finished my First water cooling build =) Only had one leak From the reservoir, I guess i didn't tighten the pump enough.
> Everything is up and running.
> Using Mayhems Pastel white.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Your loop looks backwards. Usually the far right hole is the inlet and the center most is always the inlet.


Hey Brandon13, NinjaSushi2 is right about your loop backwards. or did you installed the CPu block upside down ?


----------



## Brandon13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Hey Brandon13, NinjaSushi2 is right about your loop backwards. or did you installed the CPu block upside down ?


The manual said You could use any hole as in inlet or outlet. Should i switch it around? So far Temps are great.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandon13*
> 
> The manual said You could use any hole as in inlet or outlet. Should i switch it around? So far Temps are great.


you right I just read the EK CPU manual , you are good to go, we just mentioned it because most of the cpu blocks has the IN and OUT port.


----------



## Brandon13

Thank you for reassuring me I was a little nervous

Sent from my SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Alvarado

So stupid question but, everywhere mayhems dyes are sold, the concentrate bottles say to mix it with 750ml of Purified water. how would one go about mixing that?


----------



## Mayhem

Take a 1 Ltr jug and mix 250mls with 750mls of water. then pout it in you system

Concentrate X1 makes 2 Ltrs of fluid
Concentrate Pastel Makes 1 Ltr of fluid
Concentrate Aurora makes 750ml of fluid
Concentrate XT-1 makes 3 Ltrs of fluid.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Brandon13*
> 
> The manual said You could use any hole as in inlet or outlet. Should i switch it around? So far Temps are great.
> 
> 
> 
> you right I just read the EK CPU manual , you are good to go, we just mentioned it because most of the cpu blocks has the IN and OUT port.
Click to expand...

Well that's good to hear. Always well then.


----------



## Betnar

Hey guys I'm working on my first water cooling project and am thinking about using black mayhems. What would be the difference between pastel black and X1 black? I definitely like the look of the pastel coolant but I can't tell visible difference between the two. I also like the fact that the X1 makes 2 liters which saves money. Is there any performance difference?


----------



## Mayhem

The the is opaque the other isn't. Once is oil black and one is pure black.


----------



## MillerModPCs

Hi Mayhem dont know if you remember but i asked a week or so ago on how to make my own Pastel UV Blue and this is what i came up with

My Mayhem Pastel UV Sky Blue 39k .jpg file


I made it with
Mayhems Pastel UV White
Mayhems UV Clear/Blue Dye
Mayhems Deep Blue Dye

Ill have a video up on my youtube on how i mixed it soon
here is a link to my channel
http://www.youtube.com/user/famoussasdrummer182

Anyway just want to thank you again for the help I absolutely love the color thanks again


----------



## NomNomNom

Is there an example of XT-1 green coolant around here? I cant seem to find a picture of what it would look like in a loop.


----------



## ahweng38




----------



## eskamobob1

nice build







... got a log somewhere? i would love to see some more info on that as you did some things im planning to in my upcoming one


----------



## DigitalMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Take a 1 Ltr jug and mix 250mls with 750mls of water. then pout it in you system
> 
> Concentrate X1 makes 2 Ltrs of fluid
> Concentrate Pastel Makes 1 Ltr of fluid
> Concentrate Aurora makes 750ml of fluid
> Concentrate XT-1 makes 3 Ltrs of fluid.


Please correct me if I'm wrong.

So, I can pour in one bottle of XT-1 into 3 liters of distilled water?


----------



## iandroo888

Ahweng38 - very nice ! i like how the res, pump top and pump are all together... super thick radiators O_O !


----------



## Goofy Goober

@ahweng38 awesome pc, one of the best that i've ever seen!


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitalMonkey*
> 
> Please correct me if I'm wrong.
> So, I can pour in one bottle of XT-1 into 3 liters of distilled water?


@DigitalMonkey 150ml will make 3 ltrs of liquid. so you would need 2.85 Ltr of water to 150mls of XT-1 = 3 Ltrs. or just 50ml per 0.95 Ltrs of water.

@ahweng38 Nice build going on there.


----------



## wermad

Deep Blue + Emerald Green:



Waiting on some Duralene to ship, which will replace the crappy Primochill UV Blue junk


----------



## iandroo888

Duralene > stock stuff from xspc ! tubing looks good after about a month from when i switched it out. still as clear as it was before (aside from the dust building up on top) XD


----------



## wermad

I believe xspc uses two (or more) types of clear tube. The notorious cheap one bundled with their Rasa kits is the one most commonly to plasticize.

I'm tired of the build up of the Primochill, and the duralene was cheap anyways


----------



## iandroo888

oh. o well. it was an experience for me. i messed up doing the first loop anyway. made it into a closed loop... forgot about draining







XD


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Durelene or Masterkleer ftw.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Durelene or Masterkleer ftw.


Masterkleer has clouded for me









Quick question to mayhems, have you ever thought that plasticiser build up on the inside of the tube could absorb your dyes?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hmm Masterkleer clouded up for you too? I guess Durelene ftw.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Hmm Masterkleer clouded up for you too? I guess Durelene ftw.


Unfortunately it has, I've only got one option left to rid myself of it, acrylic tubing!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Hmm Masterkleer clouded up for you too? I guess Durelene ftw.


materkleer is crap, i have so much plastizer in my loop, and only used it for about a month, I am going to remove it from my system, and switch to primochill "PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing" which is supposedly fixed this plasticizer issue, I can only find it in clear at the moment.

So my main questions about Mayhems dyes I am currently using distilled water and silver kill coil, and would like to keep it that way, can i just add mayhem's dye to my loop and that's it, or is there more to it?

is there more maintenance involved using dye ?

And lastly im looking on performance-pcs website at mayhems dyes and it says nothing about being UV reactive, do i need something else to make it UV reactive?

My final color i want my loop to be is UV purple is thats possible...


----------



## MillerModPCs

Here is a color i made I call it UV Sky Blue and I love it





UV



Ill have a youtube video of the process and how i made it on my youtube channel soon
http://www.youtube.com/user/famoussasdrummer182

But its basically
Mayhems Pastel UV White
25 drops of Mayhems UV Clear/Blue Dye
30 drops of Mayhems Deep Blue Dye
in that order


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> materkleer is crap, i have so much plastizer in my loop, and only used it for about a month, I am going to remove it from my system, and switch to primochill "PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing" which is supposedly fixed this plasticizer issue, I can only find it in clear at the moment.
> 
> So my main questions about Mayhems dyes I am currently using distilled water and silver kill coil, and would like to keep it that way, can i just add mayhem's dye to my loop and that's it, or is there more to it?
> 
> is there more maintenance involved using dye ?
> 
> And lastly im looking on performance-pcs website at mayhems dyes and it says nothing about being UV reactive, do i need something else to make it UV reactive?
> 
> My final color i want my loop to be is UV purple is thats possible...


I hear all Primo Chill is terrible. Durelene seems to be the leading consensus on non-plasticizer tubing. Also just mix his dye with your distilled water until you get the color concentration you want. There is minimal maintenance using Mayhems dye and they're toxic free! UV Reactive dye is UV Reactive dye. Unless the dye states UV *such and such* then it isn't going to work. Just use a normal UV cathode and may I suggest this dye?

Purple Dye - http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/purple-10ml.html
UV Pink Dye - http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/uv-pink-10ml.html

If you play around with the dyes you should be able to get the UV purple look you want. Use the UV pink for the glowing effect and add the purple to darken the color to the consistency you want.

Hope this helps!









I got ya back Mick.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ok im getting really confused with what tubing to choose...
People in another thread said that the new "PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing" is supposed to be much better then there "PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing" ...

i did a quick search for duralene on ppc and frozencpu and didnt find anything, but i found plasticizer free tygon, is that any good? http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_414&products_id=34897

Back on subject with dyes, ok so your just recommending a uv dye base and then add in the purple to get my desired color...

what base do you think would be easy to get purple out of ? "Mayhems Dye - 10ml UV Clear/Blue" or "Mayhems Dye - 10ml UV Pink"


----------



## ginger_nuts

Pastel Blue


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ok im getting really confused with what tubing to choose...
> People in another thread said that the new "PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing" is supposed to be much better then there "PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing" ...
> i did a quick search for duralene on ppc and frozencpu and didnt find anything, but i found plasticizer free tygon, is that any good? http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_414&products_id=34897
> Back on subject with dyes, ok so your just recommending a uv dye base and then add in the purple to get my desired color...
> what base do you think would be easy to get purple out of ? "Mayhems Dye - 10ml UV Clear/Blue" or "Mayhems Dye - 10ml UV Pink"


If you want to go clear, durelene is your best bet, trust me, i'm currently running it with no problems going on a couple of months now


----------



## iandroo888

@ginger_nuts - looks good !


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ok im getting really confused with what tubing to choose...
> People in another thread said that the new "PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing" is supposed to be much better then there "PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing" ...
> 
> i did a quick search for duralene on ppc and frozencpu and didnt find anything, but i found plasticizer free tygon, is that any good? http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_414&products_id=34897
> 
> Back on subject with dyes, ok so your just recommending a uv dye base and then add in the purple to get my desired color...
> 
> what base do you think would be easy to get purple out of ? "Mayhems Dye - 10ml UV Clear/Blue" or "Mayhems Dye - 10ml UV Pink"


Tygon is used for beverage product and does not have the rated temperatures for water cooling. Durelene is your best bet.

I still say UV pink and darken it with purple. That way it's purple and gives off a uv glow but Mick can tell you better than I.


----------



## Mayhem

@Hamy144 dyes will naturally be taken into tubing over a period of time. this is normal.

@Qu1ckse the only maintenance for dye is PH levels , try to keep it around PH7 for best results. durelene Seems to be you best option atm how ever we don't have any and have never tested it our self. Seems like the UK is not a prime target for big fat greedy companies.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Hamy144 dyes will naturally be taken into tubing over a period of time. this is normal.
> .


Im aware of that but this is over a few days.
My tubing is more blue than the water in my res :/

Ill have to look more into why but im just going to leave it for now since i cant be bothered to change the tubing to stuff that is also going to cloud up.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Hi, I am proud to say i have decided to use Mayhem coolant in my first watercooling build. It will be ran into two gpu blocks, cpu, mb, ram, 2 rad, res, and one pump. Being that this is my first system for water cooling. Is there anything i need to know before running the Mayhem coolant into fresh tubing? Like could you provide a list of materials i would need to order? Going to be using the X1 - UV Green 250ml. Do i need to get some PureH20 to flush my system before adding the coolant being that its a fresh build? Thanks! Any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## Mayhem

As long as you flush your system well there should be no problems.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Qu1ckse the only maintenance for dye is PH levels , try to keep it around PH7 for best results. durelene Seems to be you best option atm how ever we don't have any and have never tested it our self. Seems like the UK is not a prime target for big fat greedy companies.


Ya I've decided to go with duralene...

What do you mean by Ph levels, I have no idea what your talking about..

What would give a better UV affect like the UV tubing, straight distilled water and UV dye or would using your UV pastel white mixture work better and then use the color dye I want to make it my disired color?

And with your pastel mix, what am I supposed to be mixing it with distilled water with the measurements labeled on the bottle?


----------



## n3farious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> What do you mean by Ph levels, I have no idea what your talking about..


Acid vs Alkaline ... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH

You can get a test kit at local home improvement stores, aquaria supply, wally world or your favorite online 'A' retailer.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I believe xspc uses two (or more) types of clear tube. The notorious cheap one bundled with their Rasa kits is the one most commonly to plasticize.
> I'm tired of the build up of the Primochill, and the duralene was cheap anyways


Actually, Meyhem's recommends XSPC tubing for testing OK not to turn discolored. You want their "High Flex" tubing which is about $2.50/ft which works quite well and I would recommend. The newer Primochill Advanced LRT may be real good to from how it sounds, but has not been out long enough to be in use for discoloration.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @HiTekJeff http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/usa.html#.ULknxqzZbg0


I tried both frozencpu and performancepcs and neither have it in stock. In fact, both have said they didn't know when because no ship estimate had been given on their order and they didn't even know if it was still being made. So don't know what's going on there, but they act like it's hard getting it or at least knowing what is going on. Don't know where else to look?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> Hi, I am proud to say i have decided to use Mayhem coolant in my first watercooling build. It will be ran into two gpu blocks, cpu, mb, ram, 2 rad, res, and one pump. Being that this is my first system for water cooling. Is there anything i need to know before running the Mayhem coolant into fresh tubing? Like could you provide a list of materials i would need to order? Going to be using the X1 - UV Green 250ml. Do i need to get some PureH20 to flush my system before adding the coolant being that its a fresh build? Thanks! Any help is greatly appreciated.


That is a big loop to take on for a first time water cooling build..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I believe xspc uses two (or more) types of clear tube. The notorious cheap one bundled with their Rasa kits is the one most commonly to plasticize.
> I'm tired of the build up of the Primochill, and the duralene was cheap anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, Meyhem's recommends XSPC tubing for testing OK not to turn discolored. You want their "High Flex" tubing which is about $2.50/ft which works quite well and I would recommend. The newer Primochill Advanced LRT may be real good to from how it sounds, but has not been out long enough to be in use for discoloration.
Click to expand...

No, no, and no. "High Flex" contains a substance called plasticizer which is used in tubing to give it better flexibility. The problem with tubing that uses plasticizer -- E.G. Tygon 3003, High Flex by XSPC, LTR Primo Chill -- is that plasticizer is not rated for the temperatures that water cooled PCs get to. Tygon for instance is great tubing but is manufactured for restaurant and other industries. It has a max temp rating of about 30C or 86F which is well beyond what some systems sit at idle. I know my GPUs when maxed out can easily hit into the 50s C especially come summer time and I don't have AC.

This is where the whole clouding concept comes into play. When tubing with plasticizer -- which is a chemical used to allow tubing to get tighter bends -- is used in water cooling, it heats up too high and starts breaking down the chemical compounds in the tubing. The tubing can take the heated temperatures but the plasticizer compounds break down at the molecular level and give you that sludgy, chalky look. (It dries into a power which goes everywhere later on.) This is why the clouding forums in and around the tubing and leaks into blocks, etc. To add salt to wound, the chalky substance which is white then takes on the color of the dye. This is why you get weird splotches of dye throughout your tubing. It stains the white gunk which usually congregates together in certain sections of a loop.

I hope this make's sense to everyone.


----------



## bigpapa1289

So would it be fine for me to mix uv blood red in with the pastel line to give it a uv glow?


----------



## Mayhem

@bigpapa1289 i wouldn't its a bad idea

@HiTekJeff 9_o defo not hard for them, how ever USA customs is a pain in the ass "big Time". Normally they should get there stock in 3/4 days. Ill chase this up for you as that doesn't sound goods at all.


----------



## bigpapa1289

Is there any way to do a UV red pastel color? just curious


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> That is a big loop to take on for a first time water cooling build..
> No, no, and no. "High Flex" contains a substance called plasticizer which is used in tubing to give it better flexibility. The problem with tubing that uses plasticizer -- E.G. Tygon 3003, High Flex by XSPC, LTR Primo Chill -- is that plasticizer is not rated for the temperatures that water cooled PCs get to. Tygon for instance is great tubing but is manufactured for restaurant and other industries. It has a max temp rating of about 30C or 86F which is well beyond what some systems sit at idle. I know my GPUs when maxed out can easily hit into the 50s C especially come summer time and I don't have AC.
> This is where the whole clouding concept comes into play. When tubing with plasticizer -- which is a chemical used to allow tubing to get tighter bends -- is used in water cooling, it heats up too high and starts breaking down the chemical compounds in the tubing. The tubing can take the heated temperatures but the plasticizer compounds break down at the molecular level and give you that sludgy, chalky look. (It dries into a power which goes everywhere later on.) This is why the clouding forums in and around the tubing and leaks into blocks, etc. To add salt to wound, the chalky substance which is white then takes on the color of the dye. This is why you get weird splotches of dye throughout your tubing. It stains the white gunk which usually congregates together in certain sections of a loop.
> I hope this make's sense to everyone.


You may want to ask Mayhem about this because according to his thread here, in the first post FAQ listing, it specifically says that XSPC (along with a few others) has been tested not to do this. I would love to hear what Mayhem's has to say on this as well.

Also, what would you recommend specifically to use if not one of the newer PrimoChill LRT or XSPC, Danger Den types?


----------



## wrxxx




----------



## nyk20z3

Mayhems UV Green -


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> You may want to ask Mayhem about this because according to his thread here, in the first post FAQ listing, it specifically says that XSPC (along with a few others) has been tested not to do this. I would love to hear what Mayhem's has to say on this as well.
> 
> Also, what would you recommend specifically to use if not one of the newer PrimoChill LRT or XSPC, Danger Den types?


I just had Danger Den in my last PC and it clouded in a month. Also Danger Den is out of business now as of a few months ago. A few of the retail companies kept screwing them over on RMAs by referring everyone to Danger Den instead of handling it their selves. (Will not name names and it wasn't all.) Also the economy really took a hit on them.

Er.. I'd say Duralene is by far the most recommended of all the tubing I've heard on this site. There is even a huge thread on plasticizers and tubing, etc. http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/0_20 2122 post.

That's my


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Mayhems UV Green -
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Video


What is that wheel? That crap is cool man.


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What is that wheel? That crap is cool man.


A flow rate gauge


----------



## nyk20z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What is that wheel? That crap is cool man.


A Bitspower flow indicator.

Its normally moving a little quicker but i have my D5 on speed level 1 right now!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Well, I started messing around with the Orange Mayhem dye today for my new build. Trying to see just how dark of orange I wanna go. So far, like their Blue, I am impressed with the results.









Each photo has just a little bit more dye added.


----------



## Gomi

Wish I read this topic WAY earlier -

I ordered 7 bottles of Gigabyte Orange (And sticking to them) - Unfortunately, I also ordered about 8 meters of Tygon R3603 - Guess it will make a nice garden hose, lol.

Going with Masterkleer (Just ordered), had good experience with them.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gomi*
> 
> Wish I read this topic WAY earlier -
> I ordered 7 bottles of Gigabyte Orange (And sticking to them) - Unfortunately, I also ordered about 8 meters of Tygon R3603 - Guess it will make a nice garden hose, lol.
> Going with Masterkleer (Just ordered), had good experience with them.


Masterkleer is crap, im just took apart my build last week which was only running for a week, and there is plasticizer everywhere!


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Masterkleer is crap, im just took apart my build last week which was only running for a week, and there is plasticizer everywhere!


Bits and Pixels ...

To be honest , I am about to give up on all this tubing crap - In one topic its fine, in another its completely crap and poops plasticizer like there is no tomorrow.

Gonna stick to the Masterkleer (Knowing I been warned) - I know that Mayhem specifically mentioned NOT to use Primocrap and Tygon R3603.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gomi*
> 
> Bits and Pixels ...
> To be honest , I am about to give up on all this tubing crap - In one topic its fine, in another its completely crap and poops plasticizer like there is no tomorrow.
> Gonna stick to the Masterkleer (Knowing I been warned) - I know that Mayhem specifically mentioned NOT to use Primocrap and Tygon R3603.


I know where you are coming from.

I ran Blue Promochill LRT tubing for 10 months before I tore my loop down for an upgrade. I've been hearing horror stories about Primochill for months before that (mainly from the other OCN thread), so I ordered a bunch of clear Durelene tubing in preparation to replace all my Primochill tubing then I tore it down to add another radiator to the loop.

To my pleasure, when I tore all the Primochill out and cut it in half, not a single bit of plasticizing or discoloration had happened in 10 months of running, usually 24/7. I put the clear Durelene tubing in it's place anyway (and added Mayhem dye and Biocide), and have been running that for about 2 months now.

I've heard how Durelene clouds up and plasticizes badly too. Well, guess what ... I must have sat on a horseshoe as a baby, because the Clear Durelene looks as good as the day I unpacked it.

So to be honest, I really don't bother paying much attention to the whole "OMG, don't use this, it clouds up and/or plasticizes" crew. Either I'm doing something incredibly right, or they are doing something incredibly wrong. I've run Primochill, XSPC, and 2 different batches of Durelene, in my 3 water cooled rigs and I have never had any of the troubles that people seem to have.

So use what you got. What's the worst that will happen? You have to throw away something you already own?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Durelene/Duralene ftw.


----------



## Mayhem

Tubing is a minefield ... For some it works for others it doesn't. I don't think there is a perfect answer mind you B-Neg has pulled off a hell of a job with his pipe bending 101.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Tubing is a minefield ... For some it works for others it doesn't. I don't think there is a perfect answer mind you B-Neg has pulled off a hell of a job with his pipe bending 101.


Link?


----------



## iandroo888

B-neg's pipe work is amazing. Lee Harrington is doing copper pipes on his build too


----------



## papapun

Hey guys just want to say that I have been following this post since about page 50, and that all this info is a great help. So this is my first post and I wanted to ask about making a UV orange pastel. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Plus I love all the pics that everyone has posted, keep them coming.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hey Mickey! You're so fine, you're so fine you blow my mind! Hey Mickey! *Clap Clap* Hey Mickey!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Ok, normally I just use the Mayhem 15ml concentrate dyes to add to distilled water. I've pretty much ignored the pastel line because it isn't as good at heat transference (or so I have read), but I just learned there is a "Gigabyte Orange" color in the pastel line and I have a question ... How close of a match is that to say that orange on a Gigabyte Z77X-UP7 motherboard?

I have one, and was experimenting around with the orange dye last night, and while it looks pretty sweet together, there still is a pretty good shade difference between the two.



I mean it doesn't look bad, and I sort of like the translucent look, and it should run cooler than the pastel, but for pure looks, I'm just wondering if the Mayhem "Gigabyte Orange" was specifically made to match the color on that motherboard. If so, I might have to whip out the old credit card later.


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Ok, normally I just use the Mayhem 15ml concentrate dyes to add to distilled water. I've pretty much ignored the pastel line because it isn't as good at heat transference (or so I have read), but I just learned there is a "Gigabyte Orange" color in the pastel line and I have a question ... How close of a match is that to say that orange on a Gigabyte Z77X-UP7 motherboard?
> I have one, and was experimenting around with the orange dye last night, and while it looks pretty sweet together, there still is a pretty good shade difference between the two.
> 
> I mean it doesn't look bad, and I sort of like the translucent look, and it should run cooler than the pastel, but for pure looks, I'm just wondering if the Mayhem "Gigabyte Orange" was specifically made to match the color on that motherboard. If so, I might have to whip out the old credit card later.


Will let you know tomorrow - About to fill up my own system (Z77X-UP7) with the Pastel Gigabyte Orange.

Oh, and *AGAIN* thanks for all the help on that External PSU for the MO-RA3









Ps. Dont worry, aint stalking you *Grins*


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gomi*
> 
> Will let you know tomorrow - About to fill up my own system (Z77X-UP7) with the Pastel Gigabyte Orange.
> Oh, and *AGAIN* thanks for all the help on that External PSU for the MO-RA3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ps. Dont worry, aint stalking you *Grins*


Not a problem, I am dying (heheheh) to know how the colors match.

And even if you were stalking me, I wouldn't care. Everyone needs a good stalking now and again.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Fun with Mayhems.... Cocktail Anyone? Maybe Mayhem Tequila , with Salt..














Warning, Not for Consumption


----------



## Mayhem

Hi there again.

Gigabyte Orange is stopped and im redoing it from the ground up. im not happy with its colour. (what people have in stock will be all that's left for now until i get time to redo it)

As for making UV orange from the ground up its a mix of orange + Uv Pink (runs and hides) or Red , Yellow and UV Pink

@Hanoverfist pmsl hmm your pics are worse than my own adverts on Facebook -> https://www.facebook.com/Mayhems2009 (warning mayhems humour on show)


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi there again.
> Gigabyte Orange is stopped and im redoing it from the ground up. im not happy with its colour. (what people have in stock will be all that's left for now until i get time to redo it)
> As for making UV orange from the ground up its a mix of orange + Uv Pink (runs and hides) or Red , Yellow and UV Pink
> @Hanoverfist pmsl hmm your pics are worse than my own adverts on Facebook -> https://www.facebook.com/Mayhems2009 (warning mayhems humour on show)


Lol.. Great Page


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Hanoverfist pmsl hmm your pics are worse than my own adverts on Facebook -> https://www.facebook.com/Mayhems2009 (warning mayhems humour on show)


Hahahaha I love it!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

LOL! I love those pics. That Mayhems' tequila looks delicious.


----------



## papapun

Thanks for the response, maybe I'll hold out till you release the new orange. So I guess I will go with my original plan of mixing red+UV yellow-green for now.


----------



## barretp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Ok, normally I just use the Mayhem 15ml concentrate dyes to add to distilled water. I've pretty much ignored the pastel line because it isn't as good at heat transference (or so I have read), but I just learned there is a "Gigabyte Orange" color in the pastel line and I have a question ... How close of a match is that to say that orange on a Gigabyte Z77X-UP7 motherboard?


Here's mine, the color didn't come out quite as good as I hoped, but it still looks pretty good. It needs to be a little darker and the ornage needs to have a little more pop.



Im sad that Mayhem is taking down the orange =[


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barretp*
> 
> Here's mine, the color didn't come out quite as good as I hoped, but it still looks pretty good. It needs to be a little darker and the ornage needs to have a little more pop.
> 
> Im sad that Mayhem is taking down the orange =[


Thanks for the image. That shows me exactly what I needed.

Yeah, I saw http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1163280/where he said he was going to do that, but from a private message he sent me, it seems he is going to redo it because on of his suppliers changed something on him and he wants to correct it, so I fully expect "Gigabyte Orange" to return.

You could make what you already have a bit more red bay adding the red dye drops.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barretp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Ok, normally I just use the Mayhem 15ml concentrate dyes to add to distilled water. I've pretty much ignored the pastel line because it isn't as good at heat transference (or so I have read), but I just learned there is a "Gigabyte Orange" color in the pastel line and I have a question ... How close of a match is that to say that orange on a Gigabyte Z77X-UP7 motherboard?
> 
> 
> 
> Here's mine, the color didn't come out quite as good as I hoped, but it still looks pretty good. It needs to be a little darker and the ornage needs to have a little more pop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im sad that Mayhem is taking down the orange =[
Click to expand...

Needs more fluid and he is redoing the batch because it doesn't fit his standards. Looks good though btw.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *barretp*
> 
> Here's mine, the color didn't come out quite as good as I hoped, but it still looks pretty good. It needs to be a little darker and the ornage needs to have a little more pop.
> 
> Im sad that Mayhem is taking down the orange =[
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the image. That shows me exactly what I needed.
> 
> Yeah, I saw http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1163280/where he said he was going to do that, but from a private message he sent me, it seems he is going to redo it because on of his suppliers changed something on him and he wants to correct it, so I fully expect "Gigabyte Orange" to return.
> 
> You could make what you already have a bit more red bay adding the red dye drops.
Click to expand...

He posted it on here as well. The orange looks like crap in his opinion and him and his partner hold their company to a high standard of expectation.


----------



## barretp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Needs more fluid and he is redoing the batch because it doesn't fit his standards. Looks good though btw.


Thanks, yeah I only ordered 1 orange pastel and it came up just short. I didn't want to add any more water because I figured it would dull the color down even more.


----------



## Gomi

I Got 7 untouched bottles of Gigabyte Orange (Ready to use). Unfortunately no red dye







I have a bottle of "blod red uv dye" from mayhems aswell, Can i use this to darken the orange ?

As a sidenote, why dó i always purchase the dye that ges discontinued shortly thereafter? Lol.


----------



## barretp

I think the blood red dye would be ok to use. You'd probably only need like 1 drop and it would be fine.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Just purchased 1 x Mayhems 10ml Deep Purple and 1 x Mayhems 10ml UV Pink dye


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Just purchased 1 x Mayhems 10ml Deep Purple and 1 x Mayhems 10ml UV Pink dye


Hey.. I'm really curious on that purple you got. Can you post when you use it? Love to see some of that.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Hey.. I'm really curious on that purple you got. Can you post when you use it? Love to see some of that.


Ya man, forsure, you can also subscribe to my build log in my sig as well if you want


----------



## Mayhem

@Gomi send me your address and ill send you over some red dye (free of charge) . The orange dye is staying were just chaining the orange pastel as im not happy with the colour. You'll find that we do change with consumer demands as well. e.g blood red changed because people didn't like the staining. Since we dont produce thousands of bottles that sit on the shelf for years we can do this quite quickly.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Gomi send me your address and ill send you over some red dye (free of charge) . The orange dye is staying were just chaining the orange pastel as im not happy with the colour. You'll find that we do change with consumer demands as well. e.g blood red changed because people didn't like the staining. Since we dont produce thousands of bottles that sit on the shelf for years we can do this quite quickly.


So do you have an idea for me yet on that Toxic Waste glowing dye? UV Green and Emerald maybe? I want it like a dark, glowing UV color of green.

Still not sure even after months of looking. lol


Spoiler: Biohazard



UV Green

Emerald Green

UV Laser Green


Biohazard


----------



## Mayhem

UV Laser Green + Emerald Green (small touch) will give you ultra bright glow plus the greenish tinge your after. This was the colour i was chatting about ages ago i was working on







. Its out now.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Gomi send me your address and ill send you over some red dye (free of charge) . The orange dye is staying were just chaining the orange pastel as im not happy with the colour. You'll find that we do change with consumer demands as well. e.g blood red changed because people didn't like the staining. Since we dont produce thousands of bottles that sit on the shelf for years we can do this quite quickly.


Now that is why I love OCN and companies like Mayhem.

You can get quality customer support and they go above and beyond to make sure their customers are happy.


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Gomi send me your address and ill send you over some red dye (free of charge) . The orange dye is staying were just chaining the orange pastel as im not happy with the colour. You'll find that we do change with consumer demands as well. e.g blood red changed because people didn't like the staining. Since we dont produce thousands of bottles that sit on the shelf for years we can do this quite quickly.


PM sent.

As I wrote in my PM, there are LIGHTYEARS between companies like yours - And once again it just shows that when working with watercooling, you need to stay with the companies, like yours, that are as enthusiastic about the area as the users are.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ya man, forsure, you can also subscribe to my build log in my sig as well if you want


Yeah I subbed back in August.. Sorry man .. I forgot.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Yeah I subbed back in August.. Sorry man .. I forgot.


ya man, sad to see the purple uv tubing go but im excited to see how this dye turns out. I checked out the album for your sig rig and seen you have the same plasticizer issue, so im guessing your switching to a clear tubing as well?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> ya man, sad to see the purple uv tubing go but im excited to see how this dye turns out. I checked out the album for your sig rig and seen you have the same plasticizer issue, so im guessing your switching to a clear tubing as well?


*First page* has it all for Pics.. Durelene 1/2 x 3/4


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> UV Laser Green + Emerald Green (small touch) will give you ultra bright glow plus the greenish tinge your after. This was the colour i was chatting about ages ago i was working on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its out now.


I see. It all makes sense now... lol. Sounds great bro, I look forward to playing mix master with the two.


----------



## kcuestag

What's the difference in temperatures between distilled water (With mayhems dye and mayhems biocide extreme) against mayhems pastel?

I'm changing my masterkleer blue tubing in a couple of weeks, not sure if I should go for mayhems pastel or stick to distilled water with some mayhems dye, deppending on the temperature difference.

Also, any place to buy Duralene tubing in Europe? I read in this thread it's the best against plasticizer, but I have yet to see it here in Spain.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What's the difference in temperatures between distilled water (With mayhems dye and mayhems biocide extreme) against mayhems pastel?
> I'm changing my masterkleer blue tubing in a couple of weeks, not sure if I should go for mayhems pastel or stick to distilled water with some mayhems dye, deppending on the temperature difference.
> Also, any place to buy Duralene tubing in Europe? I read in this thread it's the best against plasticizer, but I have yet to see it here in Spain.
> Thanks in advance.


I've heard (but not 100% positive) ppl are seeing an increase of 3-8°c when using pastel.

Anyone who knows a more accurate figure please feel free to elaborate on my post


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've heard (but not 100% positive) ppl are seeing an increase of 3-8°c when using pastel.
> Anyone who knows a more accurate figure please feel free to elaborate on my post


idk for sure, but with ice dragon, the temps raise about 2-5C (it decreases the specific heat of the water), but with regual mayhems dye, i didnt notice a difference over .5C (and that could have just been measurement error)

EDIT: no idea where to get durlane in spain


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> idk for sure, but with ice dragon, the temps raise about 2-5C (it decreases the specific heat of the water), but with regual mayhems dye, i didnt notice a difference over .5C (and that could have just been measurement error)
> EDIT: no idea where to get durlane in spain


been looking for duralene in europe as well, no luck yet.....

about pastels, dye distilled water etc,there is so much info about problems etc, I really don't know whats good anymore. I need something for 24/7 ( even with the system switched off for 4 weeks ).


----------



## Mayhem

If you worried these are some simple rules.

1) There is nothing better than water simple as. No other product out there currently can beat water at cooling unless you go sub zero.

2) To colour you liquids you have several things you can do and that is colour tubing, dyed water, or a premixed liquid.

3) Coloured tubing looks good and doesn't stain your system how ever your "stuck" to what ever you can get your hands on.

4) Dyes and premixes do require more attention and do need regular maintenance on them, they are more hassle than water alone and tubing how ever the effect can some times be astounding. You need to make up you own mind which is best for you.

At the end of the day do what you want and enjoy what you are doing other wise there is no point doing it.


----------



## ginger_nuts

^^^^^^^^
If there was a like button I would of clicked it.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> ^^^^^^^^
> If there was a like button I would of clicked it.


lol


----------



## Qu1ckset

What can I use to flush out the left over plasticizer in my loop, that wont harm my blocks and rads, I've seen pics of what viniger can do to the finishes on chrome colored fittings which I don't have (matte black BP fittings), I'm going to open up my CPU block, but need something to flush my two rads, gpu block and fittings.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> What can I use to flush out the left over plasticizer in my loop, that wont harm my blocks and rads, I've seen pics of what viniger can do to the finishes on chrome colored fittings which I don't have (matte black BP fittings), I'm going to open up my CPU block, but need something to flush my two rads, gpu block and fittings.


I have used COKE to flush out my rads and my block before it works very well just ensure you flush it with water when done.

Just think of when you were a kid and put a penny in coke and the penny came out looking brand new. Same principal


----------



## Mayhem

apparently Primochill have a very good product out for flushing the stuff out how ever i have not tested it myself. Many other people use many other tricks all though i strongly advise against using coke.

Getting duralean in the UK is a nightmare and the fist shop that get its in the EU ill be buying it in myself. How ever after chatting to EU dealers ive been told so far Tygon don't give a "hoot" about EU dealers...


----------



## ivoryg37

I remember reading in this thread on which tubing is compatible with mayhem pastel dye buy I can't seem to find it. Can anyone tell me what the best tubing is? I heard duralene PVC is but I can't seem to find it offer on frozencpu or PPC.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I remember reading in this thread on which tubing is compatible with mayhem pastel dye buy I can't seem to find it. Can anyone tell me what the best tubing is? I heard duralene PVC is but I can't seem to find it offer on frozencpu or PPC.


only sindwindercomputer has it at the moment
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/othertubing.html


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you worried these are some simple rules.
> 
> 1) There is nothing better than water simple as. No other product out there currently can beat water at cooling unless you go sub zero.
> 
> 2) To colour you liquids you have several things you can do and that is colour tubing, dyed water, or a premixed liquid.
> 
> 3) Coloured tubing looks good and doesn't stain your system how ever your "stuck" to what ever you can get your hands on.
> 
> 4) Dyes and premixes do require more attention and do need regular maintenance on them, they are more hassle than water alone and tubing how ever the effect can some times be astounding. You need to make up you own mind which is best for you.
> 
> At the end of the day do what you want and enjoy what you are doing other wise there is no point doing it.


What kind of tubing would you suggest for white pastel or grey?

Verstuurd van mijn LG-P990 met Tapatalk


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Q: Do dyes stain water cooling systems?
> A: Yes they do. Dye is made to stain that's why it has been used for thousands of years to stain clothing and many other products. Any dye introduced into a system will cause staining over a time period and some faster than others. *UV Pink is the worst at doing this* and is used to make Red UV active as Red is not normally UV active. The only product out there that will never stain is UV Clear Blue as this is actually not a dye. The less dye you use in the system the less staining you will get.


wow wish i read that post first, maybe i should of went clear UV Clear Blue with Deep Purple...

so is this going to stain the chrome color on the inside of the blocks, or just the tubing?

the staining isn't a deal breaker for me, as i have nothing see threw except the tubing i will be using, im just curious about staining in general


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> What can I use to flush out the left over plasticizer in my loop, that wont harm my blocks and rads, I've seen pics of what viniger can do to the finishes on chrome colored fittings which I don't have (matte black BP fittings), I'm going to open up my CPU block, but need something to flush my two rads, gpu block and fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> I have used COKE to flush out my rads and my block before it works very well just ensure you flush it with water when done.
> 
> Just think of when you were a kid and put a penny in coke and the penny came out looking brand new. Same principal
Click to expand...

Coke has sugar which breeds bacteria which clouds water. I'd say just use water to flush the system. Plug the rad holes and shake well then flush the water with distilled afterwards, then reassemble your loop.


----------



## Mayhem

Pink stains everything. Yep if your going to use it then only use a tiny drop at a time.


----------



## Killbuzzjrad

If I use Pastel Black and only put a few drops, will it be gray or do I need to use it with Pastel White as well?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pink stains everything. Yep if your going to use it then only use a tiny drop at a time.


I wish I bought the clear UV blue, Im going to see if I can switch the UV pink for the clear UV blue...


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> If I use Pastel Black and only put a few drops, will it be gray or do I need to use it with Pastel White as well?


not sure if you mean this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG6y2M6Uvss


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I wish I bought the clear UV blue, Im going to see if I can switch the UV pink for the clear UV blue...


You won't be able to get a sustainable UV purple, or I wasn't. If I went UV pink + deep purple it would stain tubes bad enough to where they were pinkish brown after a day or two.

If you go UV blue / clear and deep purple it just reacts as UV blue.

If I was still running clear tube I would go with the second option. It looks decent as a UV blue and has a purplish color under regular light.

You may be able to sustain a UV purple in acrylic if it is more resilient to the staining caused by the UV pink.

I have posted this photo before but here is what my tube looked like after a couple days.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> not sure if you mean this?
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG6y2M6Uvss


That's exactly what I needed to know and was quite helpful. I want to do the same thing with mine too.


----------



## Mayhem

we have found a new UV pink how ever its going to take a while testing it. If the claims are true from the manufacturer hopefully we should see reduced / less staining how ever im not holding my breath ive heard it all before from chemical suppliers.


----------



## Wookieelover

Hey guys and girls 0/

I just modded my Antec 620 with new tubing, Rad and Res.
Using Durelene tubing with Mayhems X1 Oil Black.
System holds 1 Litre of fluid.

Sorry for the terrible pic, only have my phone and poor lighting.


----------



## Gomi

Filled up and rolling - Just need to tint the Pastel with a drop of red









Do not mind the wiring from the 35X2 pump - Will be sleeved,

Can just spot the MO-RA3 in the background - Loop takes 2.5 Liters because of that thing


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gomi*
> 
> Filled up and rolling


MMM!! *Orangee Goodness*..


----------



## Kerelm

Hey guys, setting up my new loop and planning the colour, more than happy to use Mayhems as the store I work at sells them.

I'm really keen on a purple just like this, any tips on how to achieve this colour










thanks
Kerelm

-EDIT-
Actually looking at the colour of the coolant in the tubes on this vid, i could probably just use the purple dye on it's own
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnbGnD3krxg

Would a bit of pink brighten it up a little?


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> not sure if you mean this?
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG6y2M6Uvss


Just wondering, can someone tell me how to mix fluid like in this video using my own pump? I have a Swiftech 655 attached to a Bitspower Mod Top and 150 res. Was not sure how to just make the pump and res run without it sending the fluid out the openings? Would assume you just disconnect your fittings from the side for in/out and use the top opening on the 150 res tube as the fill port and power on with plugs on the other openings except the top one?

My pump and res shown below with the Bispower Mod Top, Mod Kit, etc.

Thanks for any suggestions or help.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> Just wondering, can someone tell me how to mix fluid like in this video using my own pump? I have a Swiftech 655 attached to a Bitspower Mod Top and 150 res. Was not sure how to just make the pump and res run without it sending the fluid out the openings? Would assume you just disconnect your fittings from the side for in/out and use the top opening on the 150 res tube as the fill port and power on with plugs on the other openings except the top one?
> My pump and res shown below with the Bispower Mod Top, Mod Kit, etc.
> Thanks for any suggestions or help.


Pump Outlet to Res Inlet.. Res Outlet feeds Pump Inlet.. Plug Remaining Holes if any.. Done! One Continuous Loop...









If you had Multiple Openings in the Top this would be Easier.. One would serve as inlet and one you could use to add your Fluids..


----------



## Rickles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kerelm*
> 
> Hey guys, setting up my new loop and planning the colour, more than happy to use Mayhems as the store I work at sells them.
> I'm really keen on a purple just like this, any tips on how to achieve this colour
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks
> Kerelm
> -EDIT-
> Actually looking at the colour of the coolant in the tubes on this vid, i could probably just use the purple dye on it's own
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnbGnD3krxg
> Would a bit of pink brighten it up a little?


IMO NEVER touch a pink dye. The staining is awful


Spoiler: Warning: my mayhems UV pink stained duralene







That being said since it was Duralene it was cheap to replace, and you can bet once Mayhems gets some new UV pink I will be trying to get that UV purple glow


----------



## Rognin

-22c last night with XT-1. We should hit -35 to -40 in the next couple months. I'm more worried about the fans than the liquid at this point.









Edit: Granted I had condensation problems but the liquid seemed to flow properly and didn't gel up, which is wonderful news. Weather predictions are at -18 for tonight, I may take a snap shot of the liquid this evening.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Pump Outlet to Res Inlet.. Res Outlet feeds Pump Inlet.. Plug Remaining Holes if any.. Done! One Continuous Loop...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you had Multiple Openings in the Top this would be Easier.. One would serve as inlet and one you could use to add your Fluids..


Confused on the whole pump outlet res inlet thing. To me, it's all part of a large unit so not sure what you mean here. There are just 3 openings on the Mod Top, two on the open side which is for in and out, one on the other side which has a plug in it for out and then the res which has the single opening at the top. It's just a Swiftech 655 attached to a Bitspower Mod Top, Mod Kit and 150 tube res. I assume then I would fill it from the single plug at the top of the res tube and plug all the other holes since the pump is attached direct to the Mod Top which is also attached to the tube res?

In the pic below you can see the full assembly with all holes plugged but the top. The pump as you can see feeds inside the tube with the opening shown in the photo.



Also, I was told if I mix the coolant this way it will be thinner once it runs through the tubes and rads. How would one mix coolant to look the same way if not using the method shown in this video? Not sure what they meant or how to solve otherwise.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> Confused on the whole pump outlet res inlet thing. To me, it's all part of a large unit so not sure what you mean here. There are just 3 openings on the Mod Top, two on the open side which is for in and out, one on the other side which has a plug in it for out and then the res which has the single opening at the top. It's just a Swiftech 655 attached to a Bitspower Mod Top, Mod Kit and 150 tube res. I assume then I would fill it from the single plug at the top of the res tube and plug all the other holes since the pump is attached direct to the Mod Top which is also attached to the tube res?
> In the pic below you can see the full assembly with all holes plugged but the top. The pump as you can see feeds inside the tube with the opening shown in the photo.
> 
> Also, I was told if I mix the coolant this way it will be thinner once it runs through the tubes and rads. How would one mix coolant to look the same way if not using the method shown in this video? Not sure what they meant or how to solve otherwise.


Personally I would mix with the entire system Plumbed and ready to go.. That way you know exactly what Color to shoot for in your res and clear tubing.. That video is just a Demonstration for color.

I thought you were trying to replicate that tube res he was using. Just set up your plumbing as Usual add your base color then start slowly adding your dye or whatever... Not sure what colors you have ??

Do you have a Fill Port?


----------



## Mayhem

@Rognin







Looking forwards to see the results. I had to bin 400 Ltrs of ultra Pure the other day because the temp was to low ..


----------



## barracks510

Sorry if this is the wrong place to put it or its already been answered but:

2 questions, 1. what kind of clear tubing should i use and 2. Whats the difference between dyes and pastels (besides the fact that pastels are solid.)


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barracks510*
> 
> Sorry if this is the wrong place to put it or its already been answered but:
> 2 questions, 1. what kind of clear tubing should i use and 2. Whats the difference between dyes and pastels (besides the fact that pastels are solid.)


1) This is still a hotly debated question. As it stands, there's no clear (pardon the pun) choice. Most clear tubes I've been recommended: Duralene, MasterKleer, & Primochill *advanced*. Don't take my suggestion gospel as I know some will not agree. This is what I observe. If you want to reasearch this more, here's the right thred:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery

2). Pastel is just referring to the color of the liquid used. It looks a bit less viscous compared to just plain old distilled + dye. Though, there's a performance hit by using pastel. I've heard anywhere from 2-8° more in temperature difference. I never really jumped on pastel tbh.

I'm sure others can elaborate on my post


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 1) This is still a hotly debated question. As it stands, there's no clear (pardon the pun) choice. Most clear tubes I've been recommended: Duralene, MasterKleer, & Primochill *advanced*. Don't take my suggestion gospel as I know some will not agree. This is what I observe. If you want to reasearch this more, here's the right thred:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery
> 2). Pastel is just referring to the color of the liquid used. It looks a bit less viscous compared to just plain old distilled + dye. Though, there's a performance hit by using pastel. I've heard anywhere from 2-8° more in temperature difference. I never really jumped on pastel tbh.
> I'm sure others can elaborate on my post


really my Masterkleer tubing has the plasticizer issue really bad.....

I have primochill advanced on the way...


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barracks510*
> 
> Sorry if this is the wrong place to put it or its already been answered but:
> 2 questions, 1. what kind of clear tubing should i use and 2. Whats the difference between dyes and pastels (besides the fact that pastels are solid.)


1) I almost always use durlane

2) Pastel is ice dragon fluid... It uses a nano-suspension of particles that make it appear cloudy like it does... From my tests (only tried in 2 machines w/ ice dragon) I say about a 3-5C change in max temps when I used ice dragon (it lowers the specific heat of the water, but doesn't decreas total performance much if you have decent flow)


----------



## PandaSPUR

Just wondering, I know it says Pastel comes with biocides and inhibitors mixed in, but does this include anti-corrosives?

I just purchased a EK Supremacy Nickel + Acrylic CPU block for my upcoming setup. Would like to avoid issues with nickel in the block reacting with copper in the rad.

Also, Mayhem, any chance you could try making that light green/sea foam green for me?


----------



## Mayhem

yes it include anti-corrosives for all metals except zinc.

How many ltrs do you need and do you have a pic.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gomi*
> 
> Filled up and rolling - Just need to tint the Pastel with a drop of red
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do not mind the wiring from the 35X2 pump - Will be sleeved,
> Can just spot the MO-RA3 in the background - Loop takes 2.5 Liters because of that thing


Excellent! How's that external radiator keeping things cool?


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Excellent! How's that external radiator keeping things cool?


Keeps my 3770K at 5 Ghz (1.38Vcore) at around 65C average (With 25C ambient) - Have not seen it break 70C yet.

Best thing is that this is with fans running at 7V (Approx 800RPM) - So its impossible to hear them at all.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gomi*
> 
> Keeps my 3770K at 5 Ghz (1.38Vcore) at around 65C average (With 25C ambient) - Have not seen it break 70C yet.
> Best thing is that this is with fans running at 7V (Approx 800RPM) - So its impossible to hear them at all.


VERY NICE. Gotta love the low to mid '60's at that OC.

Have you tried it at 12V just for grins?


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> VERY NICE. Gotta love the low to mid '60's at that OC.
> Have you tried it at 12V just for grins?


Not yet









Will give it a whirl later - Have my son on my lap watching tractors and stuff on Youtube









(So yah, will have the 12V results later just for funsies).


----------



## corysti

I have a question. Im using pastel white for my build and I ended up having just enough to fill my loop but now the air is out of the system i need a little more. I was wondering how much distilled water can I add to the loop before the Inhibitors in the mayhems will not have a equal balance of concentrate and water? basically can I add a little bit of distilled water to fill the rest of my res without having to buy a another 20 dollar bottle of mayhems and can I get away with no using a kill coil.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> yes it include anti-corrosives for all metals except zinc.
> How many ltrs do you need and do you have a pic.


Sweet, thanks!

And I mentioned it earlier in the thread, I'm hoping for something between these two colors (more green than blue):
http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-color/budgreen
http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-color/seafoamgreen

My loop isnt set up yet though so I cant provide a picture or say how many liters I would need.
I'm asking about all this right now because I plan on ordering the coolant along with the remaining parts of my loop from FrozenCPU after christmas.

Loop will consist of:
XSPC D5 dual bay res
EK Supremacy CPU block
Magicool 3x180mm rad

(my current GPU isnt worth cooling lol)


----------



## Mayhem

@PandaSPUR give me a day or so ill see what i can do. I dont see making the colour a problem.

@corysti really it is all ready at its limit at a mix ratio of 250/750ml how ever some people have topped up 100ml with out any problems but its not some thing i can recommend.


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Rognin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forwards to see the results. I had to bin 400 Ltrs of ultra Pure the other day because the temp was to low ..


Wait what? You threw away 400lt of water because it froze?!


----------



## corysti

Hey well im only shy of like 50ml at the most on topping it up. Didn't think 50 ml would make a huge difference.


----------



## Mayhem

@Rognin yup thats correct. its all to do with PH balance and the fact i forgot to leave a heater on. life !!!!


----------



## 8Jay8

Hi,
I'm using Ice Dragon coolant now and wanna change the color a little bit.
I found your Pastel line coolants are based on IDC and love the colors.
since i got plenty of IDC, i dont want to buy whole bunch of new coolants.
is there any way to add some of your dye to ICD to make similar like Pastel one?


----------



## Mayhem

yes you can add dye to IDC with no issues.


----------



## barracks510

Thanks so much guys!!!


----------



## Thork

I'm building a new system and not sure which Mayhems coolant I should use.. I want red as a color, but not sure if I should go X1 or XT-1.. I want the best performance possible, with little staining.. I dont want UV (because I hear is stains bad)...


----------



## Mayhem

Go for XT-1 Less staining, best performance and no UV.


----------



## Slimeyjimey

I read on the second page that you shouldn't add biocide to your coolant, but what if you only purchase the DYE and not the pre-mix. You should add biocide then right? Or a killcoil?


----------



## Mayhem

Kill coil will work fine with dye.


----------



## Slimeyjimey

Thank you very much


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Kill coil will work fine with dye.


I didn't know this, thanks.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Kill coil will work fine with dye.


what about pastel? i have had killcoils mess with my pH a suprising amount in the past... does that not happen so much with the newer blocks?


----------



## papapun

So quick question, if I mix the UV yellow/green with UV red concentrates, would I be able to achieve a UV orange or would I get a weird looking color under UV light.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Kill coil will work fine with dye.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> what about pastel? i have had killcoils mess with my pH a suprising amount in the past... does that not happen so much with the newer blocks?
Click to expand...

You do not need to add anything else to the Pastel or Pastel Concentrate range.

It has Biocide in it, as well as anti-corrosive properties to protect all metals (except zinc I think)


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> You do not need to add anything else to the Pastel or Pastel Concentrate range.
> It has Biocide in it, as well as anti-corrosive properties to protect all metals (except zinc I think)


i am well aware of this, but i do not believe that straight IDC does so i thought i would ask


----------



## Mayhem

IDC is different to what we make. We all so sell IDC as well but your better off asking IDC your self on there matters. I know its best not to use Silver coils with our premix or Coolants as they are not needed how ever we do not influence on what people buy or use.

@papapun I think you will end up with a extremely strange colour







. So go for it







and let us all know the results.


----------



## Wookieelover

Mayhem I recently modded my Antec Kuhler 620 with a new copper rad and a dual bay reservoir. I used your Oil Black X1 coolant with demineralised water.
I wanted to know if i added the original aluminium rad back into the loop would the X1 stop any nasty corrosion from the copper and aluminium rad?
I realise X1 does have anti corrosion properties but I would rather check from the sauce.
Thanks in advance


----------



## papapun

Hey just wondering if you guys have an update on the UV orange that you were working on in this vid, I interested in picking some up









http://youtu.be/izuXsbmUtpQ


----------



## DigitalMonkey

Can I use half of the bottle of XT-1 for two 480 rads? Because I seriously doubt that the rads plus the res will hold 3 liters worth of liquid.

Thanks


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitalMonkey*
> 
> Can I use half of the bottle of XT-1 for two 480 rads? Because I seriously doubt that the rads plus the res will hold 3 liters worth of liquid.
> Thanks


My 150ml res, loop and MO-RA3 (9 x 140 radiator) holds about two liters - So yah, 3 liters *WILL* be way too much.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Just wondering about Pastel cooling offset from water temps. I have seen some other dyes that claim to be within 2 degree C of just plain water. But wasn't sure what the offset was for Mayhem's Pastel. Water cooling duel CPUs that are 150 TDP each plus graphics card so just wanted to see what others have seen for temps using the Pastel?

Thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitalMonkey*
> 
> Can I use half of the bottle of XT-1 for two 480 rads? Because I seriously doubt that the rads plus the res will hold 3 liters worth of liquid.
> Thanks


I currently have 2 RX360 and a Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 which holds 471ml and I have about 1.5 liters in my loop. So with 2 480 and depending on the size of your reservoir you could be surprised on the amount of fluid needed.

But I agree with you that 3 liters maybe a little too much


----------



## Mayhem

@Wookieelover it should be fine but do change over your liquids every 9 months if using ali.

@DigitalMonkey i dont know how much liquid your system will take sorry!!

@HiTekJeff we say its 2 to 3c above water , Xt1 is 0.5 to 1c Above water and X1 is 1 to 2c above water. How ever we've seen some pretty outrageous claims lol.


----------



## DigitalMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @DigitalMonkey i dont know how much liquid your system will take sorry!!


Lets say that system can only hold 1.5 liters of liquid. Will it be ok to use half of the XT-1 bottle?


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh that will be fine.


----------



## papapun

Hey Mayhem not sure if you missed my question or you are keeping things top secret, but any update on the UV orange from this video: http://youtu.be/izuXsbmUtpQ


----------



## PepeLapiu

Hi Mayhem,
I plan on getting the XT-1 clear for my build. Probably the 5% solution for me.
Will it make any staining?
What about deposits in block fins?


----------



## Mayhem

@papapun erm cannot comment on that atm







i was told off for showing that hahaha.

@PepeLapiu It wont stain, block or clog a system and is the best performing coolant we make for normal systems. All so one of the cheapest in comparison to any other on the market







.


----------



## itskerby

Just wanted to pop in here and comment;

Ordered some Pastel Red a few weeks ago, opened it up and filled the loop with it yesterday.
Have to say my initial impression is very good, amazing how vibrant the color is...and yet the solution has such a low viscosity when spilled. A couple of drops on the counter and desk when filling, and no different than wiping up water.

Killer product, I'm a believer.


----------



## kcuestag

Is it safe to use Mayhems Extreme Biocide with my stuff?

- EK Supreme HF Plexi
- Magicool Triple 180 (540mm) Radiator
- 2x Aquacomputer Aquagrafx GTX680 waterblocks
- Laing D5 with EK X-TOP v2.
- Some cheap magicool reservoir

I did use it before with the EK block and a magicool rad as well as the reservoir and all was good, but the pump and GPU blocks are new so I don't know as I never used it with these, from what I was told by Aquacomputer these Aquagrafx blocks are made by normal electrolyte copper, would it be OK to use this biocide on my rig?


----------



## Mayhem

If you go by what EK advise then no, We have tested it and had no problem as have many others. If you add too much though it will become a issue. Its very much like any thing in water cooling if you buy EK they want you to use "there" brand of fluid, if you by koolance they would like you to use there brand of "coolant" .


----------



## papapun

So it is TOP SECRET ....lol , Well I hope you guys can release it at some point, I would love to have that, it's exactly what I am looking for. Thanks for the reply. You guys have a customer for life.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you go by what EK advise then no, We have tested it and had no problem as have many others. If you add too much though it will become a issue. Its very much like any thing in water cooling if you buy EK they want you to use "there" brand of fluid, if you by koolance they would like you to use there brand of "coolant" .


If I use it, should I keep the silver killcoil or remove it?


----------



## Mayhem

@papapun not top secret but still under development and wont be out for a while as we have to sort some issues out and trying to find an answer to the issues is not the easiest thing in the world to do on limited budgets.

@kcuestag I wouldn't use both silver + biocides. I would use one or the other. There are plenty of people that start off by using 1 drop of biocide and leave there coil in. The biocide keeps the fluid working and giving enough time for the silver ions to become effective.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @papapun not top secret but still under development and wont be out for a while as we have to sort some issues out and trying to find an answer to the issues is not the easiest thing in the world to do on limited budgets.
> @kcuestag I wouldn't use both silver + biocides. I would use one or the other. There are plenty of people that start off by using 1 drop of biocide and leave there coil in. The biocide keeps the fluid working and giving enough time for the silver ions to become effective.


I removed the silver kill coil and added at first 2 drops of the Biocide Extreme, waited 5 minutes and measured the pH with those strips included within the product, and I can't really see what color it is exactly, it looks somewhere between 5 and 7, I added extra 2 drops, waited 5 minutes, and the color doesn't seem to change, maybe the strips aren't working properly?

I won't be adding more drops, added 4 to the loop (I'm close to 2 liters loop).


----------



## myrizzle

So i have finished my build (600T with 2x360mm rads) - untill i get some sleeving from MDPC-X!


ATM i'm leaktesting!


----------



## PandaSPUR

Hey myrizzle, is that just the pastel mint green with nothing else added? Or did you mix that from white + green?

Just wondering, because from the product pictures on frozencpu, the "pastel mint green" looks like neon green.


----------



## siffonen

Just put pastel ice white on to my system, and it looks amazing. Also noticed that my pump is more silent at max speed.


----------



## myrizzle

It's just mint green pastel, nothing added. Im thinkin about some additives to make more nvidia green!


----------



## Mayhem

Merry Christmas and Happy new year every one. Mayhems now cannot send any thing out till the 3rd of Jan. All the best wishes from our team to every one.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

mayhems laser green


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Merry Christmas and Happy new year every one. Mayhems now cannot send any thing out till the 3rd of Jan. All the best wishes from our team to every one.


Merry Christmas too you as well!









Received your package, to my surprise it contained both a RED dye and an ORANGE one - Many many thanks! Will have a great time later today, toying with the colors!


----------



## wermad

Added more Emerald Green (as that's all I have left







):


----------



## ivoryg37

I recently mixed 750ml distilled water with 250ml mayhem pastel and to make a liter. I only used enough to fill my loop and had so much to refill the mayhem bottle to the rim and still have extra left. Can I use that bottle in another loop if I let it sit for 3 months and also since I used so little in my mini rig. Will the levels be right since I didn't use so much.


----------



## Mayhem

yes it will be fine as long as the water is good water.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I thought I'd ask here as well. I recently built my first loop and it turned out that my rad has a leak. Can I drain the loop and reuse the coolant?


----------



## Mayhem

yes you can just run the liquid though a coffee filter to make sure no rubbish is left in the liquid.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Thanks man, awesome. Loving the coolant btw









I would have wanted Aurora but the Pastel is mighty fine as well. I do have another 1L bottle of Pastel but it felt like a shame to throw away coolant after using it for 50hrs...


----------



## ivoryg37

normally I only use distilled water but after stumbling on this thread. I decided to give it a try and hopefully it is as great as everyone say. The dye was very thin like distilled water and easy to clean so i'm hoping for no clogs. However, I love the coloring so far! I may try some new colors soon


----------



## mombasa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> normally I only use distilled water but after stumbling on this thread. I decided to give it a try and hopefully it is as great as everyone say. The dye was very thin like distilled water and easy to clean so i'm hoping for no clogs. However, I love the coloring so far! I may try some new colors soon


wow, what mayhem product is that?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Mix of pastel Blue and a light (probably white/clear) UV additive.


----------



## Mayhem

You can make it you self using

Pastel White + Blue dye + UV Clear Blue
or
Pastel Blue + UV Clear Blue
or
Mayhems UV White + Blue Dye

Either way will do it. But the latter is the cheaper way of doing it.


----------



## ivoryg37

it is actually just distilled water + blue berry pastel. I originally was going to put white led so that it shows off the build at night but didn't want to waste the money so I found two 12 inch Oznium UV strips around my house from a previous build. I put it in my case at the top just to give a little lighting at the case at night to show off the watercool a little. I didn't expect it to make the tubing glow purple at night but I liked it so much that I kept it in.


----------



## PunkNugget

I know that many here have already posted this question, but I just need to find out what is the longest running system that has yet to change out their Aurora fluid. I know that you're "supposed" to change it every 6 months, but I'ver heard of others even after one year of having it and they still have it running. Me, I'd really like to get this but really don't want to change it but just top it off every 6 to 10 months.

I also know that Mayhem is working on their Aurora 2 line. How's that coming along? Thanks for all the help... Later...


----------



## Mayhem

The most we have had it is 9 months with 1 consumer running it for 1 year. How ever both our systems and the consumer system was set up to run it perfectly.


----------



## PunkNugget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The most we have had it is 9 months with 1 consumer running it for 1 year. How ever both our systems and the consumer system was set up to run it perfectly.


Thanks for the reply, but how about this, since I don't want to be changing out fluid every 9 - 11 months, I started to look into Ice Dragon Cooling Nanofluid Coolant, and then looking at the beautiful UV Green Pastel that you made (great job by the way) can I just purchase IDE and buy your dye from FrozenCPU or PerformancePCs and do it myself? Unless of course they have that available pre-made by you so I can buy it from there site directly. Let me know as I have a build that I want to showcase this fluid in my next build soon. Let me know what you can. Thanks for replying as quick as you did. BTW, is it better to reply here or to your email, and can I have it so I can email you directly? Again, thanks for the help...


----------



## liberato87

any suggestion to obtain a perfect RED?
i bought the new pastel RED nano fluid..

this is my rig


----------



## Rakin

Got the Red Dye today. Still waiting for the compression fittings to put them in.


----------



## Mayhem

Has that dye opened. If so send me you full name, address and ill ship you out a new bottle.


----------



## Homeronte

Does Digital PH Testers work on Mayhems Pastel?


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Has that dye opened. If so send me you full name, address and ill ship you out a new bottle.


Sending you a PM.


----------



## Mayhem

Info passed onto shipping department and it will be shipped tommorw , were sending you the new 15ml replacement.


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Info passed onto shipping department and it will be shipped tommorw , were sending you the new 15ml replacement.


Dunno how to thank you. Keep up the awesome support.








And again, thanks mate.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Mayhems Purple Dye


----------



## wermad

^^^Deep Purple!

Brings back memories of my 690 ii and DD builds


----------



## Lutfij

hey there, long time lurker and ofc now I'd like to join... bought from performance PC's and arrived a week ago. Haven't tested as parts are yet to arrive.



though the bottle did show signs of a leak


----------



## Mayhem

Hmm we have never had complaints of them leaking unless a dye has burst e.g as pic above you from other post.


----------



## Lutfij

well, it'll be a while until I can test the orange out...should I be concerned ? just had to get this to see what the hype was all about







okay, okay, I wanted the color to say the least


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hmm we have never had complaints of them leaking unless a dye has burst e.g as pic above you from other post.


I am not complaining in any way, the 7 bottles of Gigabyte Orange I had delivered from Aquatuning.de came in 2 x plastic bags (3 in one - 4 in the other) - And both bags had about 100ml, combined, of Gigabyte Orange slushing about.

I actully wondered about that, as the tape on top of the bottles were in tip-tip condition, and after inspecting both the bottle and cap I did not find anything that seemed broken.

Probably just one of those things.


----------



## liberato87

maybe my post unread

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/1070#post_18919655

thank you in advance









I wil use Masterkleer clear tube and I bought new pastel red, I wanted to know if I have also to buy red dye to have a perfect red


----------



## spad007

Reading my bottle. It says, "Mix with 750 ml of Di water to create 1 ml of Pastel Coolant." Huh? Wot? Is there math involved here?


----------



## Mayhem

Gomi - that's not normal. When the bottles are sealed at our end they are then washed and end up getting bashed about and sent down to the warehouse , If they leak it shows by the time it gets down to the warehouse were they are then stickered and dated according to the info that is transported with them. They are then boxed up and transported over to any re-seller or direct to you guys. If any one opens up the bottles and doesn't seal them properly they may leak but his is out of our hands.

We are awaiting new type of child proof top that if opened "after" we have made them has a small plastic ring that will fall down showing that it has been opened "after" they have been made. We are doing this because some times when the bottles have been though customs some of them have been opened by customs. These will be coming into affect once the new caps have arrived from our bottle maker.

The new dyes we make have a new much stronger 15ml bottle that should not leak and have been tested by me personally jumping up and down on them !!!

@spad007 it should say mix with 750ml of water to create 1ltr of pastel. e.g 250ml of pastel concentrate with 750ml of water (that bottle is 250ml so fill it 3x times to the correct amount







)

@Homeronte digital PH testers will not pick up the nano particles and may give false readings. We found cheaper PH testers are not worth the money were as HM PH200 is quite accurate once calibrated. If testing PH levels test at 25c.


----------



## CiBi

I asked these questions in the OCN Water Cooling Club and they informed me of this club so I'll ask my questions here again:

I'll be rebuilding my rig in a few weeks and I'm considering using clear tubing and coloured coolant instead of coloured tubing and DeMi water

I'm thinking about using Mayhems Pastel Ice White because it looks so good!!!



1) How long does Mayhems Pastel last? I've heard some very bad things about the Aurora coolant (about the durability not the quality, I think it looks amazing) I want to use it in my rig for at least 6 months.

2) Do I still need a silver coil in my loop or is the Mayhems Pastel on its own enough to not have things growing in my loop?

3) How much would I need? This is the most important question since I have absolutely no idea. My loop will contain an EK LTX block (cpu), an regular thickness 360mm radiator, a pump and a 250mm tube reservoir (Phobya Balancer 250)
I'm guessing 1liter might not be enough so 2 liters?

4) Mayhems Pastel costs 25$ per litre here and as a poor student I really can't afford buying a litre too much. (that money could be spend on other/better watercooling gear)
Does anyone know if I could dilute Mayhems Pastel a little if it turns out that 1 litre is just not enough?

I would have no problem buying 2 litres if I knew I would need it, I just don't want to have a litre left over sitting on a shelf.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

1) Not sure although I'd say more than a year from what I've read.

2) no silver coil needed

3) I used about 750-800mL on my loop

EK Supremacy -> Koolance RP452x2 -> MCP 655 -> EK CoolStream XT 360

I'd just buy the extra liter in case you need to refill due to maintanance, have a leak or else. You can keep it for a pretty long time if sealed or stored properly when opened.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> 1) Not sure although I'd say more than a year from what I've read.
> 2) no silver coil needed
> 3) I used about 750-800mL on my loop
> EK Supremacy -> Koolance RP452x2 -> MCP 655 -> EK CoolStream XT 360
> I'd just buy the extra liter in case you need to refill due to maintanance, have a leak or else. You can keep it for a pretty long time if sealed or stored properly when opened.


Where did you buy yours? I'm thinking about buying it on Highflow.be

Its 18,25€ for a liter of Mayhems Pastel Ice White


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Where did you buy yours? I'm thinking about buying it on Highflow.be
> Its 18,25€ for a liter of Mayhems Pastel Ice White


Highflow.nl

16,95 p/L


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Highflow.nl
> 16,95 p/L










racism in the water cooling community, everyone hates the Belgians


----------



## Mayhem

@CiBi

1) Pastel can last between 2 to 3 years max. Pastel is not the same as aurora as aurora was never made for long term use.
2) no need for extras when using Aurora, Pastel, X1, XT1 its all included.
3) 1 ltr should cover you if you are down 150ml or less top up with DI water. If more than 150ml is missing you will need to use 2 Ltrs of fluid.
4) Answered above. Ill hedge my bets you have more money than i do.

just noticed others had answered as well







thank you.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @CiBi
> 1) Pastel can last between 2 to 3 years max. Pastel is not the same as aurora as aurora was never made for long term use.
> 2) no need for extras when using Aurora, Pastel, X1, XT1 its all included.
> 3) 1 ltr should cover you if you are down 150ml or less top up with DI water. If more than 150ml is missing you will need to use 2 Ltrs of fluid.
> 4) Answered above. Ill hedge my bets you have more money than i do.
> just noticed others had answered as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank you.


Thank you for the fast answers







I should just buy 2 litres to help your business out








I'll post pictures of my build with the Pastel Ice White in this thread when I'm done
Quote:


> Ill hedge my bets you have more money than i do.


I really doubt it









edit: Looking at my own profile here I can see how you would think that but the DSLR and the MacBook are for school (graphic design + photogrophy) and paid for by my parents. They are really cool gadgets but actually meant for more 'professional reasons' and I got the iPhone for cheap in America.

I usually have less then 100€ in my bank account...


----------



## kcuestag

I just grabbed some Masterkleer PVC clear tubing, waiting on the store to get Mayhems Deep Red on stock this coming week, can't wait to see how my rig looks with deep red!









@Mayhem, I guess it's OK to use Silver Kill Coil or Mayhems Biocide Extreme with the Mayhems Red Dye or Deep Red dye? Thanks.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I just grabbed some Masterkleer PVC clear tubing, waiting on the store to get Mayhems Deep Red on stock this coming week, can't wait to see how my rig looks with deep red!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Mayhem, I guess it's OK to use Silver Kill Coil or Mayhems Biocide Extreme with the Mayhems Red Dye or Deep Red dye? Thanks.


Why would you put those things in your loop kcue?

In Mayhems we trust! No need for extra crap in your loop


----------



## Gomi

I *really really really really* would love to see the Orange UV dye soon, hope progress in making it is taking place! My Quad 680 build is just about done (Folding - crunching and abit of gaming) and the Orange UV would be the cherry on the top!


----------



## Mayhem

@kcuestag if just dye yes just use a silver coil or 1 drop of biocide.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Sup Mick. Dropping by to say howdy.


----------



## HiTekJeff

I was wondering how I may go about getting a nice looking silver or black metallic look with the pastel coolant? For the silver look, I was thinking something along the lines of the video that shows how to make grey pastel using "emerald green and red dye" along with the white pastel. As to the other version that is black metallic (sort of black/silver look) I am not sure on at all.

Hoping Mayehems can chime in for some advice too. Thanks.


----------



## Systemlord

I plan on using Mayhems Biocide Extreme in my loop soon and was wondering don't I also need some kind of anti-corrosive additive to keep green crud off the inside of my radiators?


----------



## Mayhem

@Systemlord If mixing aluminium and copper yes, if not no. How ever if running EK and koolance recommend a Coolant with a inhibitor in to aid in protecting there blocks.

@HiTekJeff Gold is a very hard colour to achieve. Black silver isnt possible unless you go for an effect product.




We have been working on these but they would all so require for us to make a new type of rad as the ones out on the market at the moment wouldn't work with it very well. You would probably be better of going copper and chrome piping as in B-Neg's tutorial.

Happy new year to every one as well (for tommorw)


----------



## kcuestag

I should be getting Mayhems Red dye tomorrow together with some clear tubing, can't wait to see it.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @HiTekJeff Gold is a very hard colour to achieve. Black silver isnt possible unless you go for an effect product.
> 
> 
> 
> We have been working on these but they would all so require for us to make a new type of rad as the ones out on the market at the moment wouldn't work with it very well. You would probably be better of going copper and chrome piping as in B-Neg's tutorial.
> Happy new year to every one as well (for tommorw)


OK, I'll skip the Black Metallic, I thought maybe the black pastel and something close to the grey would work. Also, for making grey, how far off or can I get a Silver color instead. I know silver is close to grey which is why I wasn't sure how or what to mix with the white pastel other than what you do for the grey.

Thanks and Happy New Year too.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Can anyone confirm yet if the new Primochill Advanced LRT tubing works with Mehems Pastel coolant? I am not talking about it "plasticizes" or whatever but rather or not it is compatible with the pastel coolant? If you look at the FAQ posted in this thread by Mehem, it states NOT to use Primochill, but that was the old version and I wasn't sure about the new one.

Thanks.


----------



## kcuestag

Has anyone tried Mayhems Red Dye then adding Deep Red into the loop where you had Red Dye?

I'm getting Mayhems Red Dye first, then getting deep red few days later, and wondering if red + deep red would look OK or it would turn into an ugly color.


----------



## Mayhem

@kcuestag it will just look red'er

@HiTekJeff sorry until we have actually tested there stuff our self s it will stay as a no go. Gray is still the clsoet you will get to it with out going in using some thing like aurora. Green and red and white is the best to use to get this colour.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @kcuestag it will just look red'er
> @HiTekJeff sorry until we have actually tested there stuff our self s it will stay as a no go. Gray is still the clsoet you will get to it with out going in using some thing like aurora. Green and red and white is the best to use to get this colour.


Nice, I want a strong red.


----------



## nighthawk-73

man those colors are so sweet, got to get me soem for my next build - pm'ed


----------



## kcuestag

Here it is, got the clear tubing and some Mayhems Red Dye:



I will also try some Mayhems Deep Red to make it red'er.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here it is, got the clear tubing and some Mayhems Red Dye:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will also try some Mayhems Deep Red to make it red'er.


So why is your tubing so big if you have thinned out fittings?


----------



## barracks510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here it is, got the clear tubing and some Mayhems Red Dye:
> 
> I will also try some Mayhems Deep Red to make it red'er.


nice ram kit you got in there. really complements x79s capability.







lol


----------



## iMica

Question on when to clean out pastel.

I see on the front page it says up to 3 years. I was wondering should you really wait for three years or clean it out at sometime?


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> Question on when to clean out pastel.
> I see on the front page it says up to 3 years. I was wondering should you really wait for three years or clean it out at sometime?


That's just the longest time, not a suggestion as to when. It's up to the individual person as to when they think fluid needs to be changed or the system cleaned. Some people do it every year regardless, other every 6 months and some just keep letting it run as long as everything is OK. So there is no hard rule, it's just how long it has been tested up to for the pastel, otherwise it's totally up to you.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barracks510*
> 
> nice ram kit you got in there. really complements x79s capability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


LOL All two piece of ram. Maybe he's like me and waiting for funds to come in. I have one 7970 in my computer with a fan on it and the other sitting in a drawer with a block on it. lol I ran out of tubing and plan on buying my next block probably next week so I don't feel like screwing with a loop yet. lol Have too many parts coming in. So maybe he is just waiting?


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Does Mayhems Dyes clog up blocks or pumps I got some primochill blood red tubing and its red but also transparent so i was thinking of putting some dye to make it show the flow.


----------



## Mayhem

It wont show the flow. if running that tubing and its working fine and your happy just leave it alone. Dyes only colour water and give you a nice colour in the res. The only advantage really other than looks is that if you have a leak it will show up better with dye.

Btw in the last four years of producing the dyes we have never had a complaint about the actual dye blocking any systems.


----------



## Addiction

Hey Mayhem, I know it has been mentioned that some of Primochills old tubing reacts with your pastel line but I have a question regarding the new stuff. I bought 3 things of your Pastel Mint Green and am wondering if you know if the problem still exists with the new Primochill Advanced LRT (I bought 10 feet of the white just to see how it looked). I was contemplating white tubing, but having my 250mm res showing off your pastel line, but want to confirm if it is OK first. Thanks in advance, and keep up the work making such quality products good sir.


----------



## shremi

Mick is there a way to make the blue berry pastel uv reactive ?????


----------



## Mayhem

@Addiction im sorry we dont have any of that stuff in the UK for me to buy yet so we haven't tested it.

@shremi Yes add UV clear blue dye (lots of it)


----------



## Addiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Addiction im sorry we dont have any of that stuff in the UK for me to buy yet so we haven't tested it.
> @shremi Yes add UV clear blue dye (lots of it)


OK, thank you for letting me know.


----------



## Gomi

Mick, any news on the Orange UV dye ? System is nearly done and would LOVE to add that orange "glow" to it


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh i threw it in the bin. I hated the stuff lol. It stained like mad and looked pinkish not orange which is the same as other brands out there.


----------



## papapun

That sucks to hear, it looked so good in the video you posted on youtube


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh i threw it in the bin. I hated the stuff lol. It stained like mad and looked pinkish not orange which is the same as other brands out there.


Oh well - No problem, if Mayhems aint able to make a good looking Orange UV dye in my opinion no-one is - So stearing away from the idea of Orange UV


----------



## PandaSPUR

Sad to hear and glad to hear.
Sad that it didnt work. But glad you didnt just release it anyway like others probably would.


----------



## spad007

No uv for my sys uv not good for plastic makes some bug's grow and kills some other bug's but is not good on plastic.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> Hey Mayhem, I know it has been mentioned that some of Primochills old tubing reacts with your pastel line but I have a question regarding the new stuff. I bought 3 things of your Pastel Mint Green and am wondering if you know if the problem still exists with the new Primochill Advanced LRT (I bought 10 feet of the white just to see how it looked). I was contemplating white tubing, but having my 250mm res showing off your pastel line, but want to confirm if it is OK first. Thanks in advance, and keep up the work making such quality products good sir.


If you check the thread a few pages back, I asked the same question about the newest Primochill Advanced LRT tubing and Meyhem's Pastel coolant. I got the same response you did and they just haven't gotten around to testing it yet which is a shame. Perhaps it's more difficult to get outside the USA, I don't know. Anyway, I am staying with XSPC high flex tubing for now until I know this works. But if it's not tested soon, I may decide to go ahead and try it since the specs say it is different and won't stain just to see if Pastel coolants will work without issues. Hopefully, one way or the other we can find out soon.


----------



## kkorky

Mayhem's 

Anyone guess what im using?

(Mick you cant play







)


----------



## Homeronte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Mayhem's
> Anyone guess what im using?
> (Mick you cant play
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Smurf Blood?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Homeronte*
> 
> Smurf Blood?


LoL! close


----------



## PandaSPUR

By the way, quick heads up to anyone looking for duralene tubing.
Sidewinder PC actually sells through amazon as well, in 10ft packages with free shipping.
Just grabbed 10ft of 3/8 5/8 tubing for myself, $9 shipped.


----------



## Mayhem

Shame they rip EU off on shipping charges.


----------



## iMica

Durelene tubing or masterkleer? To use with pastel.


----------



## SALHERO

is possible make the pastel red UV reactive ? the same question for the orange and raspberry purple...


----------



## Rakin

Received the replacement dye Mayhem. Thanks alot mate.







A big thumbs up for the customer support.








EDIT : This was not opened. I opened it up before taking the pictures.
Still didn't receive the compression fittings.


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Mayhem's
> Anyone guess what im using?
> (Mick you cant play
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Pastel light blue?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spad007*
> 
> No uv for my sys uv not good for plastic makes some bug's grow and kills some other bug's but is not good on plastic.


The UV lights we use for computers etc (night lights) produce such a small amount of UV.

Proper UV lights are a payel blue in color, and if you look at them for any period of time, you *WILL* suffer welders flash.


----------



## IXcrispyXI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Mayhem's
> Anyone guess what im using?
> (Mick you cant play
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


blue berry

im also looking to make a pastel purple what would be the best go to make it (cant find a purple pastel here)


----------



## Mayhem

you can go to http://www.mayhems.co.uk loo at distributors (at the top) there is a list of resellers on there for you. You can mix Purple and white pastel too.


----------



## Rakin

Any idea how many drops of red dye should I need to get a blood redissh effect? I have a CPU only loop.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

My mayhems powered loop















@kkorky

Mayhems Pastel Blueberry + Clear blue UV dye?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> Durelene tubing or masterkleer? To use with pastel.


Mick suggested(for those in Europe) that we use either Clearflex 60 or Mastercleer -im using Mastercleer, working great so far.

But if you're in the States, i'd go for Durelene.

Just a heads up mate-try looking at the first page of this thread, all your queries are answered there









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IXcrispyXI*
> 
> blue berry
> im also looking to make a pastel purple what would be the best go to make it (cant find a purple pastel here)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> Pastel light blue?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> My mayhems powered loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @kkorky
> Mayhems Pastel Blueberry + Clear blue UV dye?


Nope, it isnt actually







-i thought that id play around with some mixing of Mayhem's products.

As for the blue pastel colour that im using, i made it by using 750 ml Mayhem's UV white Pastel and i added 6 drops of Mayhem's blue dye.

Im very pleased and impressed, because it shows just how many different options one has at their fingertips if willing to experiment









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Shame they rip EU off on shipping charges.


*THIS^^* to the nth degree! I sometimes shop in the states at a wc shop(i wont mention the name) and the owner told me thats how they make extra money, they over charge for postage to the EU.

In fact he even offered to get me some Durelene at US prices(postage inc), when i next order from him, and post it to me along with my order at normal postage rates.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I used blueberry + black dye


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> I used blueberry + black dye


I actually like that quite a bit







(i just had a much closer look) -nice job mate

BTW it looks like it has metallic particles in it, what is that?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Huh, are you talking about air bubbles. I didn't bleed the loop very well at the time I was taking the pictures


----------



## kkorky

ahh ok that must be it-nice photographic effect though


----------



## PandaSPUR

I like it too! Looks very militaristic combined with the mobo and rest of the all black theme.

Nice simple touch with the painters tape btw, haha.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Lol thanks 

Look here the bubbles are gone:


----------



## PandaSPUR

Man I'm liking that the more I look at it.

Whats it look like with the window on? I feel like with an interior like that, you should just go buy a piece of acrylic and make a full sized window


----------



## Mayhem

If any one in the UK is ordering some bits from USA give me a shout and we could combine P&P ... i keep crying at shipping prices.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If any one in the UK is ordering some bits from USA give me a shout and we could combine P&P ... i keep crying at shipping prices.


I'd love getting some Durelene tubing or Primoflex Advanced LRT, I'm from Spain though.


----------



## Addiction

Even being in the US sucks depending where you live for shipping. Hawaii has been terrible for it since I have been here. I just paid $38 to ship 1 pack of $5 Bitspower Crystal Link.







Hell, my CaseLabs case cost $190 to ship.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PandaSPUR*
> 
> Man I'm liking that the more I look at it.
> Whats it look like with the window on? I feel like with an interior like that, you should just go buy a piece of acrylic and make a full sized window


I do have a picture of that. It doesn't show much really lol









I'll see if I can post a picture later


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh it was $55.00 just to ship some tubing.


----------



## PandaSPUR

***.

How much would it cost for you to ship a bottle of pastels to the US? I'll trade you some duralene of your choice lmao.
I think I can just use the US Postal office flat-rate international shipping. Its like $12 for a small sized box.

EDIT: or I could just donate a small sample if you just wanted a few inches to test with. Would just donate a whole 10ft, but im a not-so-rich college student


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PandaSPUR*
> 
> ***.
> How much would it cost for you to ship a bottle of pastels to the US? I'll trade you some duralene of your choice lmao.
> I think I can just use the US Postal office flat-rate international shipping. Its like $12 for a small sized box.
> EDIT: or I could just donate a small sample if you just wanted a few inches to test with. Would just donate a whole 10ft, but im a not-so-rich college student


Yeah, but then they go ridiculous on you lol.

$16,95 FedEx International flat rate

- Seattle (US)
- Las Vegas (US)
- Paris (FR)
- Luxembourg (LX)
- Aachen (GE)
- Basel (SZ)
- Genève (SZ)
- Metz (FR)
- Nancy (FR)
- Bruxelles (BE)
- Antwerpen (BE)
- Rotterdam (NL)

~approx. 3 weeks in transit

Google maps that and see how ridiculous that route is


----------



## PandaSPUR

Well, USPS Priority International Flat-Rate states 6-10 business days, and $13 for their small sized box (8 5/8'' x 5 3/8'' x 1 5/8'' ID)
I think I could stuff 10ft of tubing in there. Would cost me $22 in total, same price as a bottle of pastel concentrate here in the states.

All depends on if Mayhem gets screwed shipping pastel to me lol. Up to him. I just know a lot of people in the last 100+ pages have been asking about Duralene, which is unfortunately hard to obtain in Europe.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Lol thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look here the bubbles are gone:


AWWW! bring back the bubbles !









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addiction*
> 
> Even being in the US sucks depending where you live for shipping. Hawaii has been terrible for it since I have been here. I just paid $38 to ship 1 pack of $5 Bitspower Crystal Link.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hell, my CaseLabs case cost $190 to ship.


penalty you pay for living in paradise my friend








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PandaSPUR*
> 
> ***.
> How much would it cost for you to ship a bottle of pastels to the US? I'll trade you some duralene of your choice lmao.
> I think I can just use the US Postal office flat-rate international shipping. Its like $12 for a small sized box.
> EDIT: or I could just donate a small sample if you just wanted a few inches to test with. Would just donate a whole 10ft, but im a not-so-rich college student


Sounds like a good deal Mick


----------



## Mayhem

@PandaSPUR what you after pastel concentrate or 1Ltr versions.. How much do you need and what colour.


----------



## Mayhem

Im going to start producing some limited run colours soon that will be small batch runs of colours. These will be short run 1 of colours (say 25 to 50 bottles at a time) that will only appear in our shop (as it would be a right headache for resellers). Im going to start with some Army type colours Green, Sandy, brownish type colours and see how they go.


----------



## Lutfij

can you please send me one ?







I live in a country where I won't be able to purchase it off of your site







I want them sandy


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @CiBi
> 
> 1) Pastel can last between 2 to 3 years max. Pastel is not the same as aurora as aurora was never made for long term use.
> 2) no need for extras when using Aurora, Pastel, X1, XT1 its all included.
> 3) 1 ltr should cover you if you are down 150ml or less top up with DI water. If more than 150ml is missing you will need to use 2 Ltrs of fluid.
> 4) Answered above. Ill hedge my bets you have more money than i do.
> 
> just noticed others had answered as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank you.


Just ordered 2 litres of Mayhems Pastel White just to be sure







I'll post pictures when I rebuild my rig


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> Just ordered 2 litres of Mayhems Pastel White just to be sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post pictures when I rebuild my rig


Excellent look forwards to see it in action


----------



## IXcrispyXI

want a great lookin purple but i can only choose from this some ideas plz







http://www.thekoolroom.com/category/coolant-additive--dye/1/ (looking for a pastel colour)


----------



## PandaSPUR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @PandaSPUR what you after pastel concentrate or 1Ltr versions.. How much do you need and what colour.


Aiming to get Mint Green Pastel Concentrate, just one bottle (250ml I believe?) should be enough for my planned loop.


----------



## Mayhem

It should be but if i was you if you need it darker then it is add a extra bottle of blue dye to darken it down more.


----------



## kcuestag

Me and a friend were supposed to get two Mayhems Deep Red dye, but instead, we got two of the normal red:



We got two of the big ones from the left, that's just a comparison between the old red we had and this new red we recieved. The sad part is we ordered them in another country so there's no way for us to return it, any way we could get this fixed Mayhem?

Thanks!
Kevin.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It should be but if i was you if you need it darker then it is add a extra bottle of blue dye to darken it down more.


Interesting. Well I was going to grab a bottle of blue dye later on anyway, since I wanted to try and make a seafoam green color myself.

So let me know if you want to do this little swap, Duralene for a bottle of pastel concentrate.


----------



## Mayhem

@kcuestag send me a PM with you full details and ill ship you some new out.

@PandaSPUR Yes im interested ill PM you after with what ic an do for you.


----------



## SALHERO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SALHERO*
> 
> is possible make the pastel red UV reactive ? the same question for the orange and raspberry purple...


somebody help me please....


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @kcuestag send me a PM with you full details and ill ship you some new out.
> 
> @PandaSPUR Yes im interested ill PM you after with what ic an do for you.


Done, sent you a PM.

Thank you.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gomi*
> 
> Mick, any news on the Orange UV dye ? System is nearly done and would LOVE to add that orange "glow" to it


I too am waiting on news about the non-UV, Pastel Gigabyte Orange. I was wondering it the formula has been reworked and if it's ready yet.


----------



## Mayhem

@SALHERO Yes you can make it UV active but i will strongly advise you not to do it . if how ever you wish to dismiss my advise then all you do is add UV pink to it.

Orange Im working on it this weekend to see what i can come up with.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Orange Im working on it this weekend to see what i can come up with.


----------



## Mayhem

We've been contacted by a consumer asking if we could attempt to make a mix of nano UV fluids and other liquids with are uv active (keeping them all separate) I was told this wasn't possblae as the nano parts would move between both mixtures. Never say any thing isnt possible.... .....




this is just having a little fun.


----------



## wermad

^^^

Psychedelic


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Didnt we talk about this months ago Mick in TS?

Be interesting to see what a pump does to that,I think it will turn to bubbly mush.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh this isnt for water cooling how ever we've come up with an idea for some thing for show case system that will make it work. The project above is a test run to be sent to a manufacture for some thing very different. Mayhems now deals direct with many different industry and not just water cooling







. We deal with universities, schools, SFX for movies, art work projects ect ect.

Water cooling is a very small industry we may have started by selling to you guys to start with how ever mayhems now is growing into other industry's and expanding rapidly..


----------



## wermad

Any pics of the pastel + emerald green? Is there any difference compared to pastel + uv green?

My Duralene has held nicely so I really want to make the jump into pastel


----------



## Mayhem

Emerald green is more blueish and darker so when used with pastel create a army green than a darker green. If your after a good green using Yellow + Blue to create it.


----------



## _REAPER_

I like the white it is nice... I am thinking about putting some color in now.


----------



## Flying Donkey

Does the Pastels react with Duralene? Or is it fine?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I have my system running in -7*C ambients, is this bad for my loop







? I forgot to close the windows this morning...


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> I have my system running in -7*C ambients, is this bad for my loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? I forgot to close the windows this morning...


Water or other coolant? While you may be fine for a while if you are Folding, I wouldnt recommend it, coolant might freeze, and even if it doesnt, condensation will form inside your case which is not good.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Mayhems pastel coolant.

It was running just like normal when I came back


----------



## minicooper1

boys a solution for the condensation in my frozenq?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> boys a solution for the condensation in my frozenq?


Fill up your reservoir completely, or install a radiator just before you radiator's inlet and hope that it cools the liquid sufficiently (the second suggestion is way ott)









At times when i am testing a new cpu or gpu and i run them under load, if my reservoir isnt completely full condensation gathers in the reservoir.

Condensation is usually noticed in partially filled reservoirs-it is normal, the reason being that the water is heated by the cpu/gpu and the rest is simple science (evaporation process within the reservoir) etc.


----------



## Mayhem

@TheBlademaster01 -7 and still running whoot excellent







. If you going sub zero we recommend you use XT-1 as if you use it in the right concentration it can go down to -50c. Pastel with tested to -8 and still works how ever we don't really recommend you guys do it







.

@Flying Donkey Sorry we personally have not tested it our self how ever we do have some on its way to us right now to test and we will change the front post accordingly to go with our results.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @TheBlademaster01 -7 and still running whoot excellent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If you going sub zero we recommend you use XT-1 as if you use it in the right concentration it can go down to -50c. Pastel with tested to -8 and still works how ever we don't really recommend you guys do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> @Flying Donkey Sorry we personally have not tested it our self how ever we do have some on its way to us right now to test and we will change the front post accordingly to go with our results.


Haha, well I just forgot to close the Window and the ambients decided to drop 10*C yesterday so it wasn't really planned. I don't want to go sub zero, I also don't need it


----------



## Flying Donkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @TheBlademaster01 -7 and still running whoot excellent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If you going sub zero we recommend you use XT-1 as if you use it in the right concentration it can go down to -50c. Pastel with tested to -8 and still works how ever we don't really recommend you guys do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> @Flying Donkey Sorry we personally have not tested it our self how ever we do have some on its way to us right now to test and we will change the front post accordingly to go with our results.


Haha guess I'll be a guinea and test it out myself. Parts should arrive on Friday and I'll report back then


----------



## bulimic elephant

only halfway with this build..but here is a sneak peak with the beautiful mint green pastel!!





too bad I am gonna have to pull it all to switch the reservoir's and add the other rad/gpu block...


----------



## eskamobob1

what case is that?


----------



## NomNomNom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> what case is that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/quote
> Switch 810 matte black edition


----------



## eskamobob1

props on the mod


----------



## Mayhem

If you would like to interact more with Mayhems we have a Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/Mayhems2009) were we allow users to vote on colours and some of the decisions we make. E.g we've just done a voting round on the pastel orange we are making giving you the user the choice of which colour we will be producing.

There is lots of updates on there and if you have any ideas or suggestions we would like to hear from you..


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you would like to interact more with Mayhems we have a Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/Mayhems2009) were we allow users to vote on colours and some of the decisions we make. E.g we've just done a voting round on the pastel orange we are making giving you the user the choice of which colour we will be producing.
> 
> There is lots of updates on there and if you have any ideas or suggestions we would like to hear from you..


wow - that "Number 1" looks super nice - Any chance you can tell people with the old orange what you added to make the orange pop like that ?
Otherwise I will just dump the old one and get me a few bottles of the new one (Never can have too much!).


----------



## Mayhem

TBH there isnt much difference and its all to do with lighting. Just this is more stable.


----------



## bulimic elephant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NomNomNom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> what case is that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/quote
> Switch 810 matte black edition
> 
> 
> 
> Switch 810 matte black edition
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> props on the mod


Thanks mate!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> what case is that?


Thanks man! Still not done with the build. Have another 360 rad to go in the top, add the gpu to the loop, and sleeve the PSU (sleeving should be here tonight). I am keeping track of progress via a build log. Check it out and thanks for the kind comments!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1349504/build-log-reverse-atx-tmnt-switch-810-water-cooled-build#post_19060613


----------



## Chewy

Im looking to switch out my red aurora coolant as i want a deeper blood red pastel colour

I see some people going for mayhems light red pastel then adding red dye. Which would give a deeper blood red colour the standard pastel red or the light red pastel with dye?


----------



## Mayhem

We have a Video on the first post showing how to make blood red.


----------



## CiBi

2 litres of pure Mayhems goodness









check out my buildlog
*[Build Log] Liquid Hexa V2.0 *


----------



## PandaSPUR

Arghhh!! My order from PPCS.com arrives today, including a 250ml bottle of Pastel Mint Green concentrate. Its the final piece of my build >. The anticipation...

Going to be so sad if no one is at home to sign for my package.


----------



## benito

So my pastel mint green just arrived. i want it more green so i just ordered some emerald green dye.
On the QA for Pastels it says it can be in a loop for an extended period of time (three years tested).
My question is how by how much time will the additional dye shorten the life of the pastel?

also i am going for *this* sort of green, will the emerald green give me this kind of result? of course this is a digital image and isn't true to the actual color but i believe the idea is understood.

this is the color of the powdercoat i am getting for my case.


----------



## bulimic elephant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> So my pastel mint green just arrived. i want it more green so i just ordered some emerald green dye.
> On the QA for Pastels it says it can be in a loop for an extended period of time (three years tested).
> My question is how by how much time will the additional dye shorten the life of the pastel?
> 
> also i am going for this sort of green, will the emerald green give me this kind of result? of course this is a digital image and isn't true to the actual color but i believe the idea is understood


what about this? in the LED lighting it really looks close to your color there.


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bulimic elephant*
> 
> what about this? in the LED lighting it really looks close to your color there.


i think that is pastel mint green straight up? right?

in the first image it looks close, the second image looks more like a pastel type color.

i will be adding some green LED lighting so it should even everything out.


----------



## iandroo888

any idea why my dye or water is separating like this? randomly looked at my loop and saw it (excuse the huge picture, direct form phone)


----------



## TheBlademaster01

That's weird, does it look like that in the res too







?


----------



## Mayhem

check the PH of the liquid and i bet that coming from the rad. Weve seen this when the rad isnt flushed fully as we think some ones using acid to clean there rads and not flushing it out fully . If you send me a message i ship you out some PH test strips.

To make Pastel Green lighter add UV yellow green, to make it darker add Blue.


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> any idea why my dye or water is separating like this? randomly looked at my loop and saw it (excuse the huge picture, direct form phone)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> check the PH of the liquid and i bet that coming from the rad. Weve seen this when the rad isnt flushed fully as we think some ones using acid to clean there rads and not flushing it out fully . If you send me a message i ship you out some PH test strips.


I had this happen on me with a Phobya 200mm radiator - So yah, most likely the radiator was flushed with some weird stuff - Making the PH balance wrong. Its easy to solve though - Drain, disassemble and rinse rinse rinse and keep rinsing (Gotta love that radiator-shake-dance!).


----------



## ginger_nuts

The PH seems pretty critical. It does some funky looking things.

I guess this is why you have the warning about flushing the system on the bottles.


----------



## Mayhem

Use bicarb. Put 1 teaspoon of the stuff in water flush it though , leave for a while, then rinse. You may need to do the bi carb trick two times for it to be effective.

When using dye it imperative you keeping you system clean and at the right PH balance. This is why Premixes work because they have them built in.


----------



## liberato87

pastel red with clearflex 60 tube


----------



## Chewy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> pastel red with clearflex 60 tube


That is awesome!


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gomi*
> 
> I had this happen on me with a Phobya 200mm radiator - So yah, most likely the radiator was flushed with some weird stuff - Making the PH balance wrong. Its easy to solve though - Drain, disassemble and rinse rinse rinse and keep rinsing (Gotta love that radiator-shake-dance!).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> The PH seems pretty critical. It does some funky looking things.
> 
> I guess this is why you have the warning about flushing the system on the bottles.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Use bicarb. Put 1 teaspoon of the stuff in water flush it though , leave for a while, then rinse. You may need to do the bi carb trick two times for it to be effective.
> 
> When using dye it imperative you keeping you system clean and at the right PH balance. This is why Premixes work because they have them built in.


weird cuz when i redid my loop with the duralene, i used bi-carb to flush the radiator and clean the block.. i did it like 3-5 times too with the radiator ! got a lot of dirty stuff out ! ;_; dislike disassembling my loop.. cuz i cant pull out the tubing from the barb


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> pastel red with clearflex 60 tube


very good:thumb:


----------



## joesaiditstrue

I'm now a member of the Mayhem's club lol

Here's a video of my current build (just uploaded tonight). Ignore the color scheme, the ROG red/black theme kind of ruined what I had going









The coolant I'm using is Mayhem's Pastel Ice White


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> I'm now a member of the Mayhem's club lol
> 
> Here's a video of my current build (just uploaded tonight). Ignore the color scheme, the ROG red/black theme kind of ruined what I had going
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coolant I'm using is Mayhem's Pastel Ice White


nice build, why didn't u use red monsoon fittings?


----------



## joesaiditstrue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CiBi*
> 
> nice build, why didn't u use red monsoon fittings?


did you read my post ? guess I didn't make it clear, I had the blue fittings before I upgraded to this board (my prior board was black/blue P8Z68-V/GEN3)


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> weird cuz when i redid my loop with the duralene, i used bi-carb to flush the radiator and clean the block.. i did it like 3-5 times too with the radiator ! got a lot of dirty stuff out ! ;_; dislike disassembling my loop.. cuz i cant pull out the tubing from the barb


Wonder then if you taken i the other way instead of it being acid it may be to alkaline (one never knows). The perfect PH is 7 but it not easy to keep it there. The PH of Purple is 5 to 8 (which means it should be fine with in that range). So i wonder if some thing else is chaining the colour as there has to be a issue for this to happen (we have seen this happen every now and then on a few couple of system how ever in comparison to the amount we sell its a very slim chance of it happening). Dye colour doesn't fade on it own it needs a catalyst for it to chance.


----------



## CiBi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> did you read my post ? guess I didn't make it clear, I had the blue fittings before I upgraded to this board (my prior board was black/blue P8Z68-V/GEN3)


Ow I didn't realise the new motherboard came after the rest, I thought you just ignored your motherboard and went for a white/blue color scheme


----------



## liberato87

dear mayhem
is it pastel red nano fluid UV reactive?

I red in the faq that Dye is necessary but this red nano fluid is new so I wanted to know if something changed


----------



## bulimic elephant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> i think that is pastel mint green straight up? right?
> 
> in the first image it looks close, the second image looks more like a pastel type color.
> 
> i will be adding some green LED lighting so it should even everything out.


Yeah it is mint green pastel...I was using my phone to take those pics, but under the LED's in person its a bit more of a lively neonish green than mint green. If you play around with adding a dye to mint green pastel let me know though...i originally had that thought too as of what dye color and how much would give it a dif tint


----------



## Mayhem

@liberato87 no red pastel is not UV reactive. We try to avoid colours that stain badly in the pastel range. You can make it UV reactive you self how ever unless you willing to stain your system i would avoid doing it. BTW our pastel range is not new its being going around the block for ni on 4 years in one form or another. Mayhems has actually been alive for 5 years now.

We have testers whom we've been working with for 4.5 years and they still have the original dyes which are still working to this day







...


----------



## Lutfij

So when can we see limited editions of your stuff? I'd want a copper pastel - much like the copper of MDPC-X sleeving!!!


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Wonder then if you taken i the other way instead of it being acid it may be to alkaline (one never knows). The perfect PH is 7 but it not easy to keep it there. The PH of Purple is 5 to 8 (which means it should be fine with in that range). So i wonder if some thing else is chaining the colour as there has to be a issue for this to happen (we have seen this happen every now and then on a few couple of system how ever in comparison to the amount we sell its a very slim chance of it happening). Dye colour doesn't fade on it own it needs a catalyst for it to chance.


yeah understand all that being having a biological science bachelors myself.. lol unfortunately no supplies to test XD something already caused the RED to go PURPLE then now this color disappearing act XD


----------



## superericla

The deep purple dye I've been using disappeared for a few days, but reappeared full effect.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

It's one of the reasons why I went with ready to go coolant + dye rather than mixing it up myself









I just knew something would go wrong in my case.


----------



## Mayhem

@iandroo888 Yeh you defo have some thing wrong in you system then. If you try blue, pink, yellow, green, orange they will all stay the same colour as they have a much higher PH tolerance and are more stable to other issues.

What rads do you have @iandroo888 and @ TheBlademaster01


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @iandroo888 Yeh you defo have some thing wrong in you system then. If you try blue, pink, yellow, green, orange they will all stay the same colour as they have a much higher PH tolerance and are more stable to other issues.
> 
> What rads do you have @iandroo888 and @ TheBlademaster01


I have no problems whatsoever with my coolant though









I have a TFC XChanger 360 rad, EK Supremacy Nickel block, Koolance RP452X2 res and MCP 655 pump.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Mint green


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PandaSPUR*
> 
> 
> 
> Mint green


I was just going to ask, what about the build log lol









Good work man


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @iandroo888 Yeh you defo have some thing wrong in you system then. If you try blue, pink, yellow, green, orange they will all stay the same colour as they have a much higher PH tolerance and are more stable to other issues.
> 
> What rads do you have @iandroo888 and @ TheBlademaster01


sigh i had to pick the least stable one XD and i have to get blood red too so a little diluted blue is used probably also causing the purple but my pump sucks butt so i cant get a mix quick and im impatient XD

*challenge accepted* jk

XSPC RS360


----------



## bulimic elephant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PandaSPUR*
> 
> 
> 
> Mint green


Nice man! Did you add any dye? Once you get it in the loop the mint green looks a bit darker than mint which I really like.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh i need to change that name from mint green to green lol. Ill have a word about it with partner as its darker than mint now.


----------



## kaiqi07

This is my rig, Color theme is ROG base which is white, black and red. Used distilled water + biocide + Mayhem Red Dye. Tried Mayhem UV Pink + Red dyes mixture before to attain UV reactive but that dont really work so drained and just goes with pure red dye.

Intending to get a bottle of Mayhem Blue dye to create Blood Red so that the dye would stand out in my Bitspower Flow Indicator and my Ram Blocks. Right now in my reservoir the color is dark enough, but on the flow indicator and ram blocks they both look pretty pale.

2 X 10cm strip of Red LED is hidden inbetween the 24pin cables and the EK Cylinder Reservoir. When rig is powered up, the LED will lit up the whole of reservoir.

Whole rig is lit up with 5 X 50 cm Orange LEDs strips, 2 X 5mm Red LEDs on CPU block , 4 X 5mm Red LEDs on Pump Tops, with 4 X 3mm White LEDs to give it a white glow.

Will video them and upload if have the chance

*Overall View of the Mobo Chamber*
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/211/50797980.jpg/

*Closeup on the CPU/Ram Blocks*
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/11/30469060.jpg/

*Closeup of the Reservoir and the coolant with Mayhem Red Dye*
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/844/04st.jpg/


----------



## PandaSPUR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bulimic elephant*
> 
> Nice man! Did you add any dye? Once you get it in the loop the mint green looks a bit darker than mint which I really like.


Nah its just straight up Mint Green Pastel. Almost exactly 1L of it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh i need to change that name from mint green to green lol. Ill have a word about it with partner as its darker than mint now.


Yea haha, I was hoping it'd be a paler shade as well. >.>

Thinking of adding a bit of blue to make it a seafoam green like I talked about earlier in the thread, but now I think it'd end up being too dark.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh you need it to be light for sea foam to start with.


----------



## akira749

Is there any place in North America where they sell the pre-mix 1 liter version of Mayhems products? All I can find is the 250ml concentrate versions.


----------



## PandaSPUR

just grab the concentrate and buy a gallon of distilled water. Distilled water is easy to find in NA compared to the UK apparently.

Cost me $2 for a gallon of Poland Spring Distilled lol.


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Is there any place in North America where they sell the pre-mix 1 liter version of Mayhems products? All I can find is the 250ml concentrate versions.


Aquatuning.us

I orders 3 liters of pastel green premix, ordered on a Monday received on a Thursday. I orders 2 more liters of ultra pure water and some tubing, paid $20 for shipping . When I checked the tacking number all the stuff was coming from Germany


----------



## Flying Donkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flying Donkey*
> 
> Does the Pastels react with Duralene? Or is it fine?




Working great, no issues


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> Aquatuning.us
> 
> I orders 3 liters of pastel green premix, ordered on a Monday received on a Thursday. I orders 2 more liters of ultra pure water and some tubing, paid $20 for shipping . When I checked the tacking number all the stuff was coming from Germany


Thanks


----------



## Fyrwulf

So, I just read all 125 pages and I have to say that because of your dedication to customer service, business ethics, and kick ass products I'm going to be using your products when I get the cash to do the build I want. Now, for the questions.

1) Do your UV dyes require constant and direct light to glow or do they continue to glow after a short exposure? The reason I ask is because I have a tentative plan to add some inline UV aquarium sterilizers, but there's no point if they won't constantly fluoresce. I hate those fake purple UV lights and the real deal are too dangerous for PC applications.

2) I know you don't produce it anymore, but is there a certain way to mix the pastel brown to get a copper color? I was thinking that if you used pastel white as a base, added pastel brown until you achieve a medium tan, and then add red+yellow in whatever proportion you'd get there. But, on the other hand, I can see that only producing a **** brown.

EDIT: By the way, how is Iron Man Red (prototype) different from your other reds?


----------



## HiTekJeff

Mayhem,

You said in another thread "If going with pastel be careful with plasticizer leaching tubing."

I wanted to make sure it is still OK to use XSPC High Flex tubing as it was stated as being tested OK with Pastel coolant on the FAQ posted page 1 of this thread. The reason I ask is I am using this tubing, but noticed it was a bit murky looking and not crystal clear. There is nothing on the inside and I have ran plain DI water through it testing my setup and did not notice anything inside the tubes or such.

The new Primochill "Advanced" LRT looks more clear, but you said it has not been tested yet so I wanted to stay with what you said was OK like the XSPC tubing.

Thanks


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> Mayhem,
> XSPC High Flex tubing


This is specifically the sort of tubing that has given so many people problems. Standard tubing is usually some variation of PVC (not all of which is white and unbendable), but in a lot of cases a plasticizer is added to give the hose more ability to bend without kinking. My advice is go with duralene or some other appropriately cheap hose which, because of its cost, you can almost guarantee won't have plasticizer added in. Or, you can go the other direction and get one of the medical-rated Tygon tubes which can't have plasticizer in them because of their function, but you need some muscle and dexterous hands to work with that stuff.


----------



## Mayhem

wow loads of questions

oky

1) UV dyes need UV black light all the time they are now glow dyes so there for charging them doesn't work.

2) If you have a pic of the colour you need ill look into how to make that colour for you.

3) Tubing wise Duralene has just landed on our door step (thank you to PPC for this your heroes) and we are now testing it. As for XSPC tubing we haven't tested there latest stuff im afraid to say. So cannot really cannot comment on it. There are lots of users who are using many different types of tubing and it gets very confusing to suggest the best types. Hopefully some user maybe able to answer this question for you







. We can only go on our own findings.

This is one of the test system we have just thrown together for testing the new tubing ->



For any one interested the fittings are the new Monsoon carbon fibre fittings. Im impressed to say the least.


----------



## Fyrwulf

http://autoaircolors.com/files/4300.pdf

4335 Metallic Copper 001. I know it's not possible to get the metallic effect without Aurora and I plan on using bay reservoirs, so I just want something close to the color.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> This is specifically the sort of tubing that has given so many people problems. Standard tubing is usually some variation of PVC (not all of which is white and unbendable), but in a lot of cases a plasticizer is added to give the hose more ability to bend without kinking. My advice is go with duralene or some other appropriately cheap hose which, because of its cost, you can almost guarantee won't have plasticizer added in. Or, you can go the other direction and get one of the medical-rated Tygon tubes which can't have plasticizer in them because of their function, but you need some muscle and dexterous hands to work with that stuff.


Well, the XSPC was recommended by Mayhem on page 1 of this thread which is why I used it. The Tygon tubing are NOT recommended due to how it reacts with Mayhem Pastel which I am using (see page 1 here). Don't really know what to do because the XSPC was listed as working with Pastel.

I guess no one has tested the Primochill "Advanced" LRT yet with Mayhems. May try to go with that since some have reported it being like Duralene but easier to find. It's just a question of rather or not it will turn yellowish (due to a reaction) with the Pastel coolant like the old did. Also, since they are just now testing the Duralene, it's unknown how that will turn out too so using either the new Primochill or Duralene is an unknown.

Do you know of where you can get this Duralene in the US? FrozenCPU and Performanc PCs doesn't carry it so if it tests OK and works I may try that.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Mayhem,

No, I think you read my post wrong. I was talking about two different kinds of tubing (Primochill "Advanced" LRT and XSPC).

What I was asking about is the XSPC High Flex tubing (which you have tested long ago) you mentioned as working with Pastel coolant on Page 1 of this topic. I was just asking if you had any issues with it like others are reporting here with "plasticizing". You said it tested OK with Pastel coolant and did not turn yellow and such like some of the others.

Thanks


----------



## Mayhem

Hmm yeh after about 8 months we found that it started to show signs of plastersizer. Not as bad as some types but enough for me to pull it and replace it.


----------



## nighthawk-73

HI, so i am going to start 2 projects,
i see all this talk about type of hose..

what is the "best " tubing that can be gotten in the USA for use with your pastel's....

for clearness and hose flexibility, i am going with 1/2 i think.

those colors rock!


----------



## NASzi

I find the durelene worked out pretty well with the pastel, ran the combo in my system for about 4-5 months. When I took the loop apart I did notice a very light film on the inside of the tubing and the tubing seemed to have started to turn a very light shade of yellow, nowhere near the color of that old crappy XS-PC tubing though after just a week. And on a good note, with color in the tubes, the slight yellowing was not noticeable at all.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> Well, the XSPC was recommended by Mayhem on page 1 of this thread which is why I used it. The Tygon tubing are NOT recommended due to how it reacts with Mayhem Pastel which I am using (see page 1 here). Don't really know what to do because the XSPC was listed as working with Pastel.
> 
> I guess no one has tested the Primochill "Advanced" LRT yet with Mayhems. May try to go with that since some have reported it being like Duralene but easier to find. It's just a question of rather or not it will turn yellowish (due to a reaction) with the Pastel coolant like the old did. Also, since they are just now testing the Duralene, it's unknown how that will turn out too so using either the new Primochill or Duralene is an unknown.
> 
> Do you know of where you can get this Duralene in the US? FrozenCPU and Performanc PCs doesn't carry it so if it tests OK and works I may try that.


Sidewinder is the only place that has it: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
They also sell through amazon.com though, thats where I got mine from. $9 for 10ft of Duralene shipped, cheaper than going through the actual Sidewinder site lol.

I think the confusion about XSPC comes from the fact that they allegedly have more than one type of tubing. Theres the tubing they sell, and apparently the ones that come with the kits are cheaper.
I've heard nothing but bad opinions about Primochill in general. Some say they may have changed their tubing but looking at the last few pages of the plasticizer thread, they still seem sketcy/hit-and-miss.


----------



## Mayhem

every one is saying Duralene how ever we dont know yet weve only just started testing it. But there are lots and lots of ppl praising it.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> The Tygon tubing are NOT recommended due to how it reacts with Mayhem Pastel which I am using


And if you read this entire thread like I have you would know that Tygon is a major supplier of tubing worldwide. The tubing that is contraindicated for use in liquid cooling rigs is meant for use in beverage machines and the like because the plasticizers don't break suffer thermal breakdown in such an environment. Tygon makes many, many different kinds of tubing suitable for different uses and anything that is _medical grade_ should work because they don't contain plasticizer. You can use this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/reviews/10693/ex-tub-665/p1/Tygon_2475_Ultra_Chemical_Resistant_Plasticizer_Free_Tubing_-_12_ID_34_OD_-_Clear_ACG00038-Page1.html?tl=g30c457s1169


----------



## NASzi

guys be careful with sidewinder, they have great customer service however the first time I ordered durelene they were out of stock and it took forever (3 weeks) to get my order. A week ago today I Placed a second order, I called yesterday to see why it hadn't shipped and apparently their ordering system didn't import my order into quickbooks. They said they were going to get it shipped today. Just be sure to order a couple of weeks before you will actually need the tubing just in case. Let me say again though, they do have great customer service.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> guys be careful with sidewinder, they have great customer service however the first time I ordered durelene they were out of stock and it took forever (3 weeks) to get my order. A week ago today I Placed a second order, I called yesterday to see why it hadn't shipped and apparently their ordering system didn't import my order into quickbooks. They said they were going to get it shipped today. Just be sure to order a couple of weeks before you will actually need the tubing just in case. Let me say again though, they do have great customer service.


Sounds like I made a good choice by ordering through amazon then lol








Although it still ships from sidewinder, i trust Amazon's billing process more.

Link btw: http://www.amazon.com/s/keywords=durelene


----------



## Rakin

I'm about to order Durelene 1/2 3/4 tubing 10-12 feet but amazon has the 10 feet pack listed for $15 while sidewinder sells it for $9. I could buy some more items and get the free shipping but if they take 3 weeks to dispatch it, that would be unacceptable.








Opinions?


----------



## PandaSPUR

It took less than a week for me to get my tubing after ordering from amazon.

I dont get what you mean by adding more items for free shipping. The tubing ships for free when you order from Amazon, regardless of your total order, you dont need to do the whole "Spend $25 and get FREE SUPER SAVER SHIPPING" crap lol.


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PandaSPUR*
> 
> It took less than a week for me to get my tubing after ordering from amazon.
> 
> I dont get what you mean by adding more items for free shipping. The tubing ships for free when you order from Amazon, regardless of your total order, you dont need to do the whole "Spend $25 and get FREE SUPER SAVER SHIPPING" crap lol.


Not that, its from sidewinder, you need to have an order over $25 for free shipping from there. amazon has free shipping though but the tubing is priced $6 more on amazon.


----------



## PandaSPUR

oh my bad, forgot sidewinder had a free shipping offer.
so i guess it depends on if theres other stuff worth buying for you on sidewinder. Fittings I guess, I would've done that if they had monsoon fittings ):


----------



## Dmz96

Hi!

Would anyone know how to produce the orange that mayhem orange dye produces, but out of concentrates?
It looks like this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I would just use the dye, but I'd like to not stain my parts, and I would use the aurora concentrate, but like the op says, that's more for show than daily use. The orange doesn't need to match the picture perfectly, but to put in perspective, the orange concentrate mayhem offers is too yellow for me, I'm looking for a redder orange.


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmz96*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> Would anyone know how to produce the orange that mayhem orange dye produces, but out of concentrates?
> It looks like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would just use the dye, but I'd like to not stain my parts, and I would use the aurora concentrate, but like the op says, that's more for show than daily use. The orange doesn't need to match the picture perfectly, but to put in perspective, the orange concentrate mayhem offers is too yellow for me, I'm looking for a redder orange.


Mix some RED dye into the Orange until satisfied - That is how I did mine (Mayhem was a champion and mailed me a bottle of concentrate for free! ).


----------



## Mayhem

That colour is just orange and XT-1 clear.


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> That colour is just orange and XT-1 clear.


Dang, sorry yah - Its not Orange Pastel - Doing Foldathon at the moment and the immense heat radiating from my system is making me quint my eyes, lol.


----------



## izajasz

Hey guys. I have 2 question that i cannot find an answer too. First I am using Mayhems X1 UV Blood red with XPSC Raystorm D5 RX360 kit as a base for a future upg for GPU (but thats a long time form now ). The first thing i want to ask - Is Mayhems X1 UV Blood red safe ? Does this coolant do same things to the loop as posted here : http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1008960&mpage=1&print=true - post 9 by jmcu1 ? Does this coolant degrade performance after some time of use ? And the second question is - the tubing that comes with XSPC kit doesnt let the UV light through and the effect is that the coolant doesnt change colour in uv .... I cannot seem to find what kind of tube i am supposed to use so it can let the UV rays through ? And by the way will the uv leds make the coolant react or i need to use cold cathodes ?


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *izajasz*
> 
> Hey guys. I have 2 question that i cannot find an answer too. First I am using Mayhems X1 UV Blood red with XPSC Raystorm D5 RX360 kit as a base for a future upg for GPU (but thats a long time form now ). The first thing i want to ask - Is Mayhems X1 UV Blood red safe ? Does this coolant do same things to the loop as posted here : http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1008960&mpage=1&print=true - post 9 by jmcu1 ? Does this coolant degrade performance after some time of use ? And the second question is - the tubing that comes with XSPC kit doesnt let the UV light through and the effect is that the coolant doesnt change colour in uv .... I cannot seem to find what kind of tube i am supposed to use so it can let the UV rays through ? And by the way will the uv leds make the coolant react or i need to use cold cathodes ?


If i'm not mistaken, unless you added UV to your blood red coolant, it's not sold as a UV type coolant. The statement "the tubing doesn't let UV through" seems to be a false statement, UV light can pass through alot of things, especially something that is clear like a piece of tubing. Mayhems makes all sorts of "safe" coolants. They do say however that for the X1, the coolant should be changed every 9-12 months. The pastels last up to 3 years. If you ask me, no matter what type of coolant you have, it should be swapped out every 6 months to a year.

If you do the proper research, you will see that almost all other coolant brands besides mayhems will over time dye the tubing and the parts that they touch. In my experience, both with mayhems dyes and mayhems pastels, neither stain any of the parts or tubing that they touch.

And with your lighting questions, make sure you get UV reactive coolant or an additive for the coolant you choose, otherwise your UV light won't work, I don't think it matters whether you use LED's or cathodes however I would think that the cathodes would work a littler better in your application since they disperse light a little more evenly.


----------



## izajasz

Thanks for the fast reply. Indeed You seem to be right. I did not look at mayhems site (shame on me ) and there is nothing about X1 and UV reactivness , i thought its with uv additives as it was signed as uv reactive by the company that sold me the coolant. Anyway now the decision needs to be made. Should i replace the tubing for some good uv red tubes and swap the coolant for clear one or is adding a UV reactive ingredient to the coolant which is already in will be better idea ? How adding such additive will influence the block and other components ?


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *izajasz*
> 
> Thanks for the fast reply. Indeed You seem to be right. I did not look at mayhems site (shame on me ) and there is nothing about X1 and UV reactivness , i thought its with uv additives as it was signed as uv reactive by the company that sold me the coolant. Anyway now the decision needs to be made. Should i replace the tubing for some good uv red tubes and swap the coolant for clear one or is adding a UV reactive ingredient to the coolant which is already in will be better idea ? How adding such additive will influence the block and other components ?


Just by the clear UV dye, it'll be cheaper. Unless you're getting the pink dye (don't), nothing will happen to your equipment. Mayhems isn't anything like the dye other companies put out.


----------



## izajasz

Ill guess ill do like You say. Anyway I ve missed this in the first post :

Quote:


> ...The UV Pink version of this Coolant stains like mad.... How ever it is one of the brightest UV active coolants we do. UV pink is all so in the UV Red and UV Blood Red. Mayhems how ever is now removing the UV pink from Mayhems Blood Red as we feel it is not needed. Users who have experienced the staining have managed to easily remove the staining using a mix of clear vinegar and water with no adverse side effects...


Seems that the UV additive was staining WC components. The blood red therefore no longer stains the components , am i correct?


----------



## Mayhem

Our dyes do stain. esp the pink. Just some times they may not show signs of staining for a long time. We no longer add UV pink into Blood Red any more because of this issue.


----------



## izajasz

Thank You for the info. Could You please suggest what tubing is the best for XPSC Raystorm D5 RX360 and Mayhems X1 ? As the blood red doesn not contain UV is it better to use X1 clean and coloured UV tubing or add the UV to Blood red (or buy UV red) and use clean tubing ? To be honest id rather use clear tubing but i would like it to glow redd(ish) so it fits with my Rampage IV Extreme. It would be nice if You could suggest the best tubing for the XSPC kit and mayhems X1 combo.


----------



## iandroo888

weird.. so i decided to drain my loop... found out... tubing is dyed  you'd think the tubing be dyed overall but its blotchy like in picture i posted ... and the water that drained out... is clear


----------



## h2on0

I want to join. I love this stuff. My first time setting up a loop.


----------



## Mayhem

@izajasz You'll find it very hard to find any thing UV red in tubing or liquids they either look pink or orange and never UV Red. This is because there is not true UV Red well not yet anyway.

@iandroo888 can you send me a pic ive never seen that before.


----------



## izajasz

I ve done some research and i think im gonna go with X1 coolant without dyes and non UV red tubing + some red leds. The question is which tubing brand will be most compatible with X1 and XSPC kit and will not leave any residue as plasticizers and stuff.


----------



## Lutfij

@ Mike - Hey, where are those limited run colors? I'm very eager to see them!!!


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @izajasz You'll find it very hard to find any thing UV red in tubing or liquids they either look pink or orange and never UV Red. This is because there is not true UV Red well not yet anyway.
> 
> @iandroo888 can you send me a pic ive never seen that before.


sure thing.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *izajasz*
> 
> I ve done some research and i think im gonna go with X1 coolant without dyes and non UV red tubing + some red leds. The question is which tubing brand will be most compatible with X1 and XSPC kit and will not leave any residue as plasticizers and stuff.


Well, you do NOT want to use the XSPC tubing that comes with the kit (that is the version that's cheaper and REAL bad). They do make another kind of tubing you can buy separate by the foot and it's listed as compatible with their Pastel coolant and such. However it too gets a little murky according to others and Mayhem after about 8 months. That's NOT to say it leaches anything into the coolant, but just looks smoky and such. He did say that is was better than several others they have tested that were much worse.

Personally, I will either stay with my XSPC "High Flex" tubing or go with either the new Primochill "Advanced" LRT (the new version) that several has reported as working quite well so far or Duralene tubing that's also reported as good. However, Mayhem has just started testing the Duralene so either that or the new Primochill version are still unknowns. At the worse, you would just have to get new tubing or maybe new coolant in 6-12 months, but hopefully both of these will be OK once tested longer.

Good luck


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> sure thing.


The same thing happened with me, only to a much lesser extent. I had a small spot of tubing dyed purple, which I removed by flushing water through it.


----------



## nighthawk-73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> Well, you do NOT want to use the XSPC tubing that comes with the kit (that is the version that's cheaper and REAL bad). They do make another kind of tubing you can buy separate by the foot and it's listed as compatible with their Pastel coolant and such. However it too gets a little murky according to others and Mayhem after about 8 months. That's NOT to say it leaches anything into the coolant, but just looks smoky and such. He did say that is was better than several others they have tested that were much worse.
> 
> Personally, I will either stay with my XSPC "High Flex" tubing or go with either the new Primochill "Advanced" LRT (the new version) that several has reported as working quite well so far or Duralene tubing that's also reported as good. However, Mayhem has just started testing the Duralene so either that or the new Primochill version are still unknowns. At the worse, you would just have to get new tubing or maybe new coolant in 6-12 months, but hopefully both of these will be OK once tested longer.
> 
> Good luck


Hi so there is no real tested good tubing for the blueberry pastel? also how long will this testing be going on,

also i am doing a dual loop system so any idea's what would be the best complimentary pastel for the blueberry, i was looking for some kind of green or a solid yellow but
i need to relook at the website for what is available, but i was hoping for a good solid pastel yellow, is that available?

thanks for any info, i will also do my own research, but i figured i would ask toooo.....
\

thanks for all the help! this looks like a top notch product...


----------



## nighthawk-73

BAM< i just found out ther is a "Pastel Sunset Yellow "

has anyone used it, and any pics of it in a system... now i am getting excited..


----------



## Mayhem

@Lutfij Working on them atm. There are a few new ones appearing in the specials section any day now.

@iandroo888 Oky now im lost for words and do not know the answer at all ... Whos tubing is that.


----------



## iandroo888

sidewinder's duralene


----------



## Mayhem

So the dye has bean soaked up by some parts of the tubing and not other and left the water clear. I need to check out the MSDS sheets for there tubing. All so as said we've tried to contact Tygon several times and they are rubbish. They do not answer email and requests and are a shame of a company.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I use Tygon tubing, are they bad with pastel?


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> So the dye has bean soaked up by some parts of the tubing and not other and left the water clear. I need to check out the MSDS sheets for there tubing. All so as said we've tried to contact Tygon several times and they are rubbish. They do not answer email and requests and are a shame of a company.


seems like it


----------



## Mayhem

Ive messed up PMSL (this is what you get for not wearing your glasses) the tubing were using is Tygon E1000.

http://www.performance-pcs.com supplied us with 3 meters for testing and so far it putting up a hell of a fight which is good but we've still yet to test it with dyes.



The biggest issue is the compression fittings. Its not perfect how ever if your careful it works fine just don't go tugging on the fittings. Because the stuff is so flexible when in a compression fitting it is not as tight as fit as most would like.


----------



## ivoryg37

I have a question. I had a 250ml bottle of Pastel and I mixed it to make 1 liter of Pastel Blue Berry. I used all my loop could take and still had enough to fill up the whole bottle of Pastel back up. Its been sitting there for about a month and I decided to use it in another build but the bottle alone wasn't enough to fill the loop at all so I poured more distilled water in until my loop is full. Is there any downfall to this? The blue berry still looks like my other loop with the extra distilled water.


----------



## billdcat4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I have a question. I had a 250ml bottle of Pastel and I mixed it to make 1 liter of Pastel Blue Berry. I used all my loop could take and still had enough to fill up the whole bottle of Pastel back up. Its been sitting there for about a month and I decided to use it in another build but the bottle alone wasn't enough to fill the loop at all so I poured more distilled water in until my loop is full. Is there any downfall to this? The blue berry still looks like my other loop with the extra distilled water.


Funny, I had a similar story. First ran my loop with distilled water alone but didn't manage to drain it fully before adding the coolant. Thus, after filling the system I have a full 250mL of coolant left over. I'll save it for later.

Anyway here's my system:

Specs:
5ghz Intel 2500K
ASUS P8P67 Pro
8gb G.Skill Sniper DDR3 1600
2x Samsung SSD830 128gb RAID 0
MSI GTX460 1gb HAWK
Seasonic SS-460FL Passive PSU
Fractal Design Define R3 Black with Window

XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
XSPC D5 Bayres
XSPC RX360 Radiator
3x Nexus RealSilent 120mm 1000rpm Fans
2x Rosewill Hyperborea 120mm PWM Fans
Mayhems Blue Berry Coolant

Love your coolant, wish I had other colours to try out

EDIT: I see that a lot of people are recommending against using the stock XSPC Tubing that comes with their kits. I'll be redoing my loop when I add a GPU in a couple months so I'll check back to see what the recommended type of tubing it at that time.


----------



## Mayhem

Yes there is, first there is only enough biocides and inhibitor in the bottle for 1 Ltr of fluid, 2nd you have watered down the nano practicals to 1/2 there level and 3rdly it will drop out much much quicker.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billdcat4*
> 
> Funny, I had a similar story. First ran my loop with distilled water alone but didn't manage to drain it fully before adding the coolant. Thus, after filling the system I have a full 250mL of coolant left over. I'll save it for later.
> 
> Anyway here's my system:
> 
> Specs:
> 5ghz Intel 2500K
> ASUS P8P67 Pro
> 8gb G.Skill Sniper DDR3 1600
> 2x Samsung SSD830 128gb RAID 0
> MSI GTX460 1gb HAWK
> Seasonic SS-460FL Passive PSU
> Fractal Design Define R3 Black with Window
> 
> XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
> XSPC D5 Bayres
> XSPC RX360 Radiator
> 3x Nexus RealSilent 120mm 1000rpm Fans
> 2x Rosewill Hyperborea 120mm PWM Fans
> Mayhems Blue Berry Coolant
> 
> Love your coolant, wish I had other colours to try out
> 
> EDIT: I see that a lot of people are recommending against using the stock XSPC Tubing that comes with their kits. I'll be redoing my loop when I add a GPU in a couple months so I'll check back to see what the recommended type of tubing it at that time.


Just my opinion on what i would do if i had your rig-not criticism









Remove your drivebay cages since you are running SSDs, and mount your 360 vertically in that spot-it will look very neat.

Good job though.


----------



## izajasz

Quote:


> EDIT: I see that a lot of people are recommending against using the stock XSPC Tubing that comes with their kits. I'll be redoing my loop when I add a GPU in a couple months so I'll check back to see what the recommended type of tubing it at that time.
> Edited by billdcat4 - Yesterday at 8:08 am


Thats too bad because i own the same kit as You and i felt that there is a need to change the tubing. Unfortunately the best are not avible in Europe... I hope there wont be any plasticizer in my block.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes there is, first there is only enough biocides and inhibitor in the bottle for 1 Ltr of fluid, 2nd you have watered down the nano practicals to 1/2 there level and 3rdly it will drop out much much quicker.


Is it ok to run it for 3 months if I put a silvercoil in it until I have the funds to buy new fluid?


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Just my opinion on what i would do if i had your rig-not a criticisism
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove your drivebay cages since you are running SSDs, and mount your 360 vertically in that spot-it will look very neat.
> 
> Good job though.


i don't think it is possible in that case, or it would be a tight fit. and he is running a bay res/pump combo. but in general i would also say to try to house everything within your case.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> i don't think it is possible in that case, or it would be a tight fit. and he is running a bay res/pump combo. but in general i would also say to try to house everything within your case.


He could easily do it -tight fit pffft lol-mod it!!!!









Seriously though-the radiator could be mounted vertically after removal of the HDD cage, the most he might have to do is very slight Dremel work to accommodate the tank part of the rad which will be on top, so as to facilitate very easy connection to the bay res.

*Update:* Ok i was intrigued, cause i like the Fractal cases-so i did some home work, a 360 wont fit in there vertically unless you remove everything in the front, so its a no go, but it will easily fit a Monsta 240 radiator-food for thought perhaps









240-Something like what this guy did http://www.overclock.net/t/1103478/custom-loop-cpu-cool-in-fractal-r3

or this guy did 280 (scroll down a bit ) http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/3820

R3/R4 practically no difference in measurements.

So, pushpull configuration radiator tank up top & connection to the bay reservoir will be a cinch.

Im seriously thinking of getting this little beauty:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8URy-WKm_4

Anyway, my apologies for going off topic


----------



## Addiction

Hey Mayhem, I am trying to make my pastel mint green more like MDPC Toxic Green or Gigabyte green. Am I correct in assuming the only dyes I could possibly need to attain this is UV yellow/green and dark blue? It is just too yellowish right now for the build, and I need it brighter and more vibrant. Quality product by the way. Thanks!


----------



## Mayhem

To darken it use Blue to lighten it use UV Yellow / Green that's all you need. Or play with both to attain a richer colour.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Hey Mayhem, I'm looking to get a dark rich red color that will still let a little light through with the use of LEDs in a bay res. Right now I am using your X1 Black Oil which glows a dark red with a white LED shining through it. I plan on switching over to distilled plus your biocide and wanted to get a recommendation from you on what dyes should I use to get as close to the red on the rampage iv extreme as I can. Should I just use the Deep red dye or is there something I should mix with it to get a little better color match? I really want to try the pastels but since I need almost 2.5 L for my loop it gets a little expensive lol. Would going with a pastel give me a better color match or would the pastels be to "thick" to let some light through? Thanks in advance and just wanted to say how much I love the colors and lifespan of your coolants







.


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

I used mayhems Gigabyte orange pastel in my liquid cooled ps3 slim , Not a pc But looks great







Love the orange .


----------



## Mayhem

@skyhigh2004 im really sorry but we don't own a Asus rampage and trying to colour match it via photos isnt the easiest thing going. Its best to ask asus owners what they have done. We have made the new pastel red as close as we can from pics. As for a see though red the deep red is a little darker when used than the normal red so this may achieve you desired colour. If you do get it and you not happy let me know and we will sort you out a alternative free of charge.

@TwirlyWhirly555 thank you for your complement it is appreciated.


----------



## kkorky

Another batch of goodies arrived on my doorstep today-HUGE THANK YOU Mick (or Mr Mayhem as i see that you are being called nowadays







)

Best Customer care out there people, above and beyond the call of duty-much appreciated mate thanks again


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @skyhigh2004 im really sorry but we don't own a Asus rampage and trying to colour match it via photos isnt the easiest thing going. Its best to ask asus owners what they have done. We have made the new pastel red as close as we can from pics. As for a see though red the deep red is a little darker when used than the normal red so this may achieve you desired colour. If you do get it and you not happy let me know and we will sort you out a alternative free of charge.
> 
> @TwirlyWhirly555 thank you for your complement it is appreciated.


Thanks Mayhem. I'm gonna try the deep red and the biocide. I'll also try asking what other people have used in the RIVE owners club.

Another quick question as I've only ever used pre-mixed coolants, all a person needs is distilled water, biocide and a dye if they choose right? There isn't some other chemical I don't know about that I need to add to the loop that pre-mixed coolants have and there isn't anything special you need to use for nickel, copper or brass correct?

Sorry for the noobish questions but I only have experience with your x1 concentrates lol.


----------



## Mayhem

Well i have to say if using a EK product if i was you to keep with in the warranty id go for a clear premix. There are plenty out there and then use a dye.

Biocide and water if fine 99% of the time but with all the hoplar going on now a days your safest bet is a clear premix + dye.


----------



## skyhigh2004

I'll be using the heatkiller/watercool nickel GPU and CPU blocks, a MIPS nickel mobo block, all brass and copper rads and copper tubing so no EK stuff for me. I was hoping to get away from using premixed coolants since I'm one of those people who like to drain and check my loop and then refill with fresh clean coolant quite often and it can get expensive.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Thanks Mayhem. I'm gonna try the deep red and the biocide. I'll also try asking what other people have used in the RIVE owners club.
> 
> Another quick question as I've only ever used pre-mixed coolants, all a person needs is distilled water, biocide and a dye if they choose right? There isn't some other chemical I don't know about that I need to add to the loop that pre-mixed coolants have and there isn't anything special you need to use for nickel, copper or brass correct?
> 
> Sorry for the noobish questions but I only have experience with your x1 concentrates lol.


been tryin to do a blood red to match the Asus Rampage IV Extreme mobo.. iunoe if its my system or whatever, i end up with purple after a while lol... cuz to achieve deep red, you add a diluted amt of blue to it..


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Any word on the "Gigabyte Orange" new mix?


----------



## Lutfij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Another batch of goodies arrived on my doorstep today-HUGE THANK YOU Mick (or Mr Mayhem as i see that you are being called nowadays
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Best Customer care out there people, above and beyond the call of duty-much appreciated mate thanks again


Mike is like the MDPC-X of the coolant dye niche - limited but very sensible in the customer care+QC dept's.


----------



## Mayhem

@47 Knucklehead New orange has just been released. We have removed the name gigabyte from it and its now out. Its just called pastel orange.

@skyhigh2004 with all that nickle in place id use a premix. If you going to rebuild a system why not just take the fluid and run it though a Coffee filter. Then reuse the fluid. Most fluids are rated at 9 months to 2 years.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @47 Knucklehead New orange has just been released. We have removed the name gigabyte from it and its now out. Its just called pastel orange.


To make sure I get the correct one, should I order directly from you, or what what site that ships to the US would you recommend?


----------



## CiBi

Mayhems Pastel Ice White looks so GOOOOOOOOOD!







(build log)


----------



## Mayhem

@47 Knucklehead we have several re-sellers who ship to USA. Im not sure who has what as the sales side of things isnt down to me and all i know is that all USA resellers stock from us often. I know they do cos ive got sales on my back all the time about the bad USA customs.


----------



## mr one

Im thinking to get this coolant, maybe someone has a pic of how it looks in UV light?
Mayhems X1 Premix Fluid for Water Cooling 1 Litre : BLOOD Red / UV Red


----------



## Fyrwulf

Just to let you know, your shop section still list the orange as Gigabyte Orange. Oh, and you might want to take a look at the spelling of "Specials".


----------



## ACallander

I just ordered some pastel yellow. Can I just add it to my distilled water in my loop and should I take out my silver coil or is it okay to leave in?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Just to let you know, your shop section still list the orange as Gigabyte Orange. Oh, and you might want to take a look at the spelling of "Specials".


Aye, that is why I am partly confused. The site lists "Gigabyte Orange" but doesn't list "Pastel Orange" at all. Or at least I can't find it.


----------



## Fyrwulf

It's on the front page as Pastel Orange and I'm sure if you order from him you'll get that color since I believe he said that he binned the entire Gigabyte Orange stock.


----------



## Mayhem

@Fyrwulf updated, thank you for the heads up







. Give me a Shout on here (pms) with you name address and ill ship you out a present for showing us our mistakes









@ACallander Pastel concentrates 250ml need mixing with distilled water or DI water. I would remove you silver as its not needed. Its normally best to start with a fresh batch of water then use what's in all ready.


----------



## stl drifter

I thought I saw a silver coolent on Mayhems site before, but cant find it now.


----------



## Dredknot

Ok just got done with my UV green build. Used mayhems 250ml X1 UV green concentrate and I must say im kinda disappointed. This stuff is not very bright at all. My loops isn't that big so there not to much water diluting it but no matter how much I add it doesn't seem to make any difference. Guess ill have to buy some UV green dye now. Frozen CPU doesn't carry UV green mayhems dye other wise I would have bought some. Any where I could Get this from? Im in the States and its hard to come by sometimes so I was pretty stoked when I saw that they started carrying it. Honestly this stuff seems to glow better under normal bright light then UV. Using a LED flashlight makes this stuff GLOW lol.


----------



## BMSliger

@Mayhem

1. On your website's storefront, why can you not get to a listing of the dye's you sell by clicking on the Dyes link under categories on the lefthand side of the screen? When you click this link, you are taken to a screen looking like this:
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/dyes.html Notice - no dyes listed!
If you find a link to the dye somewhere else on the website and click it, you are taken to a page like this:
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/ocean-blue-15ml.html
Notice that on the webpage for the second link the path for the Ocean Blue dye listed at the top of the page shows it should be listed under Home -> Dyes -> Ocean Blue 15ml. However, when you click the Dyes link at the top of that page (or under Categories on the lefthand side of the page), you are taken back to the page in the first link with no dyes listed.

2. Why do your listings on your storefront have no pictures of what the XT-1 coolants look like when mixed? The only pictures you show of the blue, red and green XT-1 concentrates show a picture of the bottle - whick is not very useful. At least the blue and red have videos of the colors being mixed while the green has nothing at all but a picture of the bottle - again, not useful.

Liove your products, and bought dyes from your previous website (before the Aurora, Pastel, etc. lines were released) but someone needs to pay better attention to your website.

Monte Sliger


----------



## Mayhem

@Dredknot for ultra bright UV green effect you need laser Green this is the brightest UV active green we do. UV green is just that it a green colour that is UV active.If you would like ill send you some out so you can see the difference.

@BMSliger 1) Im useless at web design and one day ill pay for some one to do a better job that im happy with. For the moment it works.
2) there is a video....


----------



## Dredknot

That would be great! ya I would definatly like the brightest color green possible so it pops. I was gonna try some Yellow/green UV dye but u know best.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> That would be great! ya I would definatly like the brightest color green possible so it pops. I was gonna try some Yellow/green UV dye but u know best.


PM me you Name address and telephone number (for delivery only). Ill get some sent out to you.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Thanks Mayhem for all your help. I just placed an order for 3 bottles of Orange Pastel this morning. I would have ordered 3 liters of UltraPure too, but it wouldn't let me ship that across the pond. I guess I'll pick that up more local. I can't wait to get this and put it in my "Muzzle Flash" rig and take some photos.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Fyrwulf updated, thank you for the heads up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Give me a Shout on here (pms) with you name address and ill ship you out a present for showing us our mistakes


That's really cool of you. I'll send you a PM shortly.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> PM me you Name address and telephone number (for delivery only). Ill get some sent out to you.


Currently in progress of gaining a lot of fanboys







. Great service man


----------



## Mayhem

@47 Knucklehead Yeh we do have a limit on sizes we can send out how ever if you realy want UP you can contact [email protected] and they will get you a real price for delivery. Liquids are very expensive to ship here in the UK so we try and work it out personally as normally we can get it cheaper this way. Keep us informed how it goes







and dont forget lots of pics









@TheBlademaster01 don't forget the fan girls







... we likes them !!!!!


----------



## _REAPER_

I agree.... you have great service and you care about the end result for your customers.


----------



## stl drifter

Mayhem do you guys have a greyish color coolent or silverish or is there a way to mixa black and a white to get it ?


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stl drifter*
> 
> Mayhem do you guys have a greyish color coolent or silverish or is there a way to mixa black and a white to get it ?


Nope, this was discussed a few pages back. You can not get it by mixing black and white like you may think. There's a Youtube video showing this that I will try to post later, but it's really simple. What you need is a base color, which is white, then you want to add Mayhem's "Emerald Green" and "Red" dyes.

Start by mixing your coolant to get 750ml of white, then you want to add the dye slowly. Begin with about 10 drops of the Emerald Green, mix, then add just ONE drop of Red and mix that. Repeat these steps for every shade you want to go darker.

This is what I did and you can achieve nice results for any shade of grey.


----------



## Mayhem

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=LG6y2M6Uvss


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Ok, totally off the wall question ...

Where can I get that pump/tube display unit you keep using? Is it a custom setup or is it a store bought unit (which I tend to think it is because the base that houses the pump looks molded)?

I think that would just be slick as heck to have on my desk at home and at work with some Aurora in it.


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> PM me you Name address and telephone number (for delivery only). Ill get some sent out to you.


Thanks again man really appreciate it.


----------



## Mayhem

@47 Knucklehead Its just a vortex lamp (not pump) were the base has a impella that turns at high speed to create a vortex in the centre. They cost about £15.00 and can be gotten from most gadget shops.


----------



## stl drifter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=LG6y2M6Uvss[/quote
> 
> Thanks alot ! That seems easy enough. Will be ordering once my case labs M8 arrives. + rep for you:thumb:


----------



## rebelextrm02

I'd like to join in. I built my first loop a few weeks back and used Mayhems Pastel Ice White and distilled water after the leak test.



I'm 100% happy with Mayhems. I may end up being slightly disappointing in the tubing I bought though. I used Durelene from Sidewinders computers and after about 3 or 4 weeks I think i'm starting to see some slight yellowing to the tubing. You can't see in the picture but in person it's quite evident. Only time will tell I suppose.


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rebelextrm02*
> 
> I'd like to join in. I built my first loop a few weeks back and used Mayhems Pastel Ice White and distilled water after the leak test.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm 100% happy with Mayhems. I may end up being slightly disappointing in the tubing I bought though. I used Durelene from Sidewinders computers and after about 3 or 4 weeks I think i'm starting to see some slight yellowing to the tubing. You can't see in the picture but in person it's quite evident. Only time will tell I suppose.


surprising you say duralene has an issue. the stock xspc tubing that came with kit yellowed in < a month. ive had this duralene in for a few months already and its still clear (aside from the dye problem atm) XD


----------



## BMSliger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @BMSliger 1) Im useless at web design and one day ill pay for some one to do a better job that im happy with. For the moment it works.
> 2) there is a video....


1. Except it doesn't work. Example - If I was looking for your 15ml bottle of Yellow dye. On the front page of your storefront, the yellow dye is not under Product of the Day. It is not in the scrolling list under featured products. If I click on the Dyes Link under Categories, it is not listed there (neither is any other dye). You can finally find it if you do a search on "yellow dye" in your search box and even there it is the last item listed on page 6 of 6 of the search results. Not complaining as much as hating to see you miss sales when people go to your website looking to buy a particular dye. All of the links under Categories work properly except for your link to Dyes which takes you to a blank page!

2. Where? It is certainly not on your storefront product page for your XT-1 Green. Was interested to see whether the XT-1 Green was like your Yellow-Green or your Laser Green or your emerald green or some other shade of green.

Again, love your products and want them to be around for a long, long time.

Monte Sliger


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BMSliger*
> 
> 1. Except it doesn't work. Example - If I was looking for your 15ml bottle of Yellow dye. On the front page of your storefront, the yellow dye is not under Product of the Day. It is not in the scrolling list under featured products. If I click on the Dyes Link under Categories, it is not listed there (neither is any other dye). You can finally find it if you do a search on "yellow dye" in your search box and even there it is the last item listed on page 6 of 6 of the search results. Not complaining as much as hating to see you miss sales when people go to your website looking to buy a particular dye. All of the links under Categories work properly except for your link to Dyes which takes you to a blank page!
> 
> 2. Where? It is certainly not on your storefront product page for your XT-1 Green. Was interested to see whether the XT-1 Green was like your Yellow-Green or your Laser Green or your emerald green or some other shade of green.
> 
> Again, love your products and want them to be around for a long, long time.
> 
> Monte Sliger


I just made a post with my rig on the last page with the Uv green xt-1

Edit scratch that I mean x1


----------



## Fyrwulf

Hey, do you know you have the X-1 Emerald Green UV 1L listed at 5.00 GBP and the 250mL listed at 7.00 GDP?


----------



## Mayhem

@Fyrwulf yes the 1 Ltr is premixed and the 250ml makes 2ltrs coolant as it is a concentrate hence more expensive to make.
These are test colours to see how they sell and what people think of them. The are under special offer (introductory offer) to gauge what users think of it hence the price







.









@BMSliger ill look into this tonight how ever i cannot promise i can fix it as my skills on web pages are not really that good







.


----------



## BMSliger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @BMSliger ill look into this tonight how ever i cannot promise i can fix it as my skills on web pages are not really that good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


This is just a heads up. Not saying it needs to be fixed immediately. Especially for me - I am experienced enough to search around and find what I need (as long as it is accessible on the website at all). I am concerned about newbs or less patient users who go to your website looking to purchase one or more bottles of dye. As I said, all other products (Auroras, Pastels, X1, XT-1, etc) are accessible by clicking the appropriate link under the Categories header on the lefthand side of the page - clicking on the Dyes link leads nowhere.

Monte Sliger


----------



## rebelextrm02

The stock xspc tubing was yellow out of the box lol. The durelen looked and felt amazing next to that stuff. Im not really sure what is going on with it to be honest. I don't remember if it was crystal clear when I first filled it up or not. I feel like it was but I cannot say with any real certainty. I just opened up the side of my case one day and it looked like it had a bit of a yellowish tinge to it. I changed the lighting in the room and it still looked the same. That's where I'm at now. At this point I'm just waiting to see if it gets any worse before I make any factual statements on anything. I do have left over durelene that I may experiment with.


----------



## Mayhem

Brian White who did the cooler master mod for CES got video interviewed and left me feeling rather proud












If you ever get support from us less than he has got let us know because we strive to keep it this way for every one no matter how much or how little you spend on our products. A massive shout goes to hank over at PPCs as well for helping us get the needed products to him fast.


----------



## AMDHulk

Is there a way I can make dark green with Mayhem's mint green pastel, I am asking this because I currently have that in my system(which I love). I do not want to drain and buy more coolant to just get a darker green.


----------



## Mayhem

Yes just add blue to the system to get a darker green. Just do one drop at a time till your happy.


----------



## AMDHulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes just add blue to the system to get a darker green. Just do one drop at a time till your happy.


Thanks as in blue dye right?


----------



## papapun

yup


----------



## BMSliger

Mayhem,

What colors of blue dye are available? Performance PCs lists:
Deep Blue 10ml
Blue 15ml
Clear Blue 15ml
Dark Blue 15ml
Ocean Blue 15ml
Frozen CPU lists:
Dark Blue 15ml
Ocean Blue 15ml
Your own sales website does not have any listsings for dyes although there appear to be individual product pages for the dyes but the only one I can see is the Ocean Blue 15ml listed under your Product of the Day section on the home page of your storefront.

Can you clear up exactly what shades of blue are available? Also, links to those product pages on your storefront would be appreciated.

Monte Sliger

BTW - Just as a heads up, the picture Hank at PPCs is using on the product page for the Dark Blue 15ml dye is the lightest shade of blue I have ever seen. Ir is anything but *DARK* blue. The picture of the Dark Blue 15ml dye at Frozen CPU looks correct.


----------



## Systemlord

I just purchase a huge order to complete the rest of my build and have a question regarding Mayhems Biocide Extreme. I know that algae is a growth that Biocide Extreme kills and keeps the pH level ideal, since patina is a form of growth does Biocide Extreme help prevent it from forming if pH levels are maintained (pH 6.5 / 8.5)? I understand that algae is a biological growth and patina is a chemical reaction, but that both grow and form on the surface of metals.


----------



## Dmz96

Is this new "pastel orange" still gigabyte orange but renamed? Or is it a new, darker shade of orange?


----------



## Mayhem

@BMSliger the old 10ml Deep deep = the new 15ml Blue. Dark Blue is a darker deeper blue than 15ml Blue and ocean blue is a lighter greener blue.

@Systemlord patina is caused by oxidation and exposure to atmospheric elements. We've personally not seen it happen how ever if you leave your blocks out to the elements and they are not protected then this will happen. You may get verdigris (a form of patina) but again this is on exposed copper and most blocks are now plated or varnished to protect them against such issues. If you wish for a full system protection i would recommend you go for a full premix that will help as it has anti oxidising agent with in its formula Our Biocide extreme doesn't contain such luxurious chemicals..

@Dmz96 Gigabyte orange was retired and the new orange is a little different.


----------



## CiBi

Mayhems Pastel Ice White


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmz96*
> 
> Is this new "pastel orange" still gigabyte orange but renamed? Or is it a new, darker shade of orange?


We will soon see. I just got my shipment from Great Britain in the mail today.



After I eat, I'm going to whip up 2 liters of the stuff and I'll be sure to post some pictures.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Ok, here goes. 3 pictures of the "New and Improved" Mayhem Orange, complete with a set of MDPC Orange sleeve and a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP7 motherboard box for reference.







I dare say Mayhem nailed it!


----------



## wermad

is that a pastel or regular dye?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> is that a pastel or regular dye?


Pastel concentrate. It comes in 250ml bottles and you mix it with 750ml of either Distilled Water, De-ionized Water, or preferably, Mayhem's Ultra Pure H20.

It already has a biocide in it, so you just mix it up and pour it in.

I did try some of the regular orange dye and added various numbers of drops into distilled water, and it looked "ok", but for my build, the Pastel Orange is a PERFECT match.

Here is a video I shot using about 10 drops of the orange dye in a small loop. This was the power up test of my new rig's water cooling loop.






As you can see, the dye just doesn't get "orange enough" compared to the Pastel Orange ... which is completely opaque. I actually like the translucent look of the dye (I use the blue in another one of my builds) and I like the translucent orange look, but it just wasn't what I was going for on this build.


----------



## Dmz96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I dare say Mayhem nailed it!


NOW THAT'S ORANGE!!! YAY!!!


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Oranje boven!

you guys look like dutchies with all that orange


----------



## Dmz96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Oranje boven!
> 
> you guys look like dutchies with all that orange


I had to look that up







Clearly not dutch here


----------



## Hanoverfist

Dangit! That New Orange is just would i need, looks Awesome!.. The Gigabyte Orange I bought last Month Fails in Comparison..









Still Orange but NOT THAT ORANGE..


----------



## Mayhem

@47 Knucklehead thank you i hope it was worth the wait lol.

@Hanoverfist its all down to personal preference really. You cannot please all the people all the time, but you can please some of the people some of the time. Instead of matching the colour we got you guys to vote on it on our FB page to which they would like us to make and that is the colour most people chose.


----------



## charleybwoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Dangit! That New Orange is just would i need, looks Awesome!.. The Gigabyte Orange I bought last Month Fails in Comparison..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still Orange but NOT THAT ORANGE..


I know the feeling ;p Looks like we have something else on the wish list


----------



## Dredknot

Well thanks to mayhem for sending me some dyes to try out. Mixture of Uv yellow and laser green. Going to buy some led uv lights here this week to make it really pop.


----------



## POMLORE

This is what UV Pastel white and Masterkleer tubing looks like after 5 months, it started to discolour after a few weeks 


After strip down res, pump & blocks









Rebuilt with Pastel Blue Berry and Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT, Lets see what happens with this one




Any comments welcome


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh that build up is the plasticizer - Weve been looking into it further ->



Ive got loads of Microscope shots of plasticizer leaching close up and trying to catalogue it with different dyes, fluids, chemicals so that i have a reference to work from. I could do with some better lenses for it and a better cam just haven't got the ££ for it atm.

for ref in the pic on the left is tubing on the right is plasticizer leaching out of the tubing. It just looks like a tacky clear plastic under the scope.

In your pic above the one with the block and the white stuff its the plasticizer blocking the port and acting like a siv catching all the nano fluid creating a white / greyish mess. This is when your system blocks and has issues. This has been happening for years under certain conditions and people have been blaming the wrong thing for the issues no realising what the real trouble is.


----------



## POMLORE

Is that plasticizer in my res ?


----------



## Mayhem

wouldn't know unless i was testing it and had close up pics. Normally Plasticizer is sticky how ever if you have no flow in your system and left for a while the particles will drop out. All so if you system is out of PH balance this may happen when say a new rad is used and not flushed out correctly. There are a few possibilities how ever with out a test sample to work from its all guess work.

PH balance is very important with nano fluids as they are positively charged at PH 7 this stops them sticking how ever if you go way out of that PH range them will lose that charge.


----------



## Biafra1987

Hi there! I am new on this forum so I decided to upload some pictures of my build with mayhems pastel white + emerald green dye + UV yellow green (and 4 drops of deep purple). Something new

















Bonus picture of pastel white + emerald green and few drops of deep purple (without them you get the colour of mint).


----------



## _REAPER_

I am having no issues with MasterKleer tubes as of yet


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Hanoverfist its all down to personal preference really. You cannot please all the people all the time, but you can please some of the people some of the time. Instead of matching the colour we got you guys to vote on it on our FB page to which they would like us to make and that is the colour most people chose.


So True







.. I can still mess with the Shade by adding Red.. Just really impressed with the New Orange..


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Hmm May upgrade to the new orange , looks alot better than the lighter one







, More orange looks to match my case better too .

This is my use , i did post before but thought id add pics


----------



## ACallander

So I put my mayhem pastel and I noticed my temps rise a little from just distilled water... Is that normal?


----------



## Rognin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwirlyWhirly555*
> 
> Hmm May upgrade to the new orange , looks alot better than the lighter one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , More orange looks to match my case better too .
> 
> This is my use , i did post before but thought id add pics


I DEMAND a build log linky.... NAOW!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Well, I did a little work on my build today, changed a couple tubes around and such, but more importantly, added the "New and Improved" Mayhem Orange.

Here is a little taste:


----------



## grimmy

mayhem UV PURPLE

not as purple as i was hoping but looks nice


----------



## WaitWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *POMLORE*
> 
> Rebuilt with Pastel Blue Berry and Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT, Lets see what happens with this one
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any comments welcome


That colour looks awesome, my watercooling stuff is all arriving tomorrow and glad I picked that colour as it looks sweet


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> So I put my mayhem pastel and I noticed my temps rise a little from just distilled water... Is that normal?


I'm guessing so. I ran straight distilled and just switched to pastel and my Folding temps have gone up about 3C since the switch. Not the end of the world, but it is a difference. I still wouldn't switch back, the look is just too awesome.

I will say, that I didn't notice even a single degree temperature increase when going from straight distilled to distilled with Mayhem dye added ... even when I added a lot. Just a difference from distilled to pastel.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @47 Knucklehead thank you i hope it was worth the wait lol.


Most definitely worth the wait. I can't thank you enough for your hard work. I am in true awe with your products.


----------



## Rakin

Now I regret dropping so much PTNuke in the loop. :|
Flushed it with vinegar and added the dye and two drops only this time, let see how it goes.


----------



## Biafra1987

When can we expect these new military-style colours in the pastel range? I would love some of that


----------



## Reystar

I'm thinking buying the X1 series premixes guys! What you think? I really worry destroying my blocks though, anyone using them for long term?


----------



## Mayhem

@47 Knucklehead now thats orange haha

@grimmy Nice res, the purple isnt a bright colour when under UV as it has dark tones.

@Rakin you only need 1 drop of Biocide, reinse your system with bicarb and Di water then start again .. You mistake is common and many people think more is better, with mayhems less is better some times









@Biafra1987 when i get some time, sorry but overloaded with work atm.


----------



## Mayhem

Who would like some samples of the New UV Emerald Green Premixed liquids.

You must have a min of 50 posts and most be able to post back pics and thoughts on the products in this forums in this thread. If you do not have UV lights then its pointless you saying yes.

Put you systems specs below with how many ltrs you think you will need , It comes in concentrate or fully blown coolant. EU get Full blown 1Ltr Coolant and Out of EU get 250ml concentrate.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Great deal man. I don't have UV and am a noob in watercooling


----------



## lootbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> I'm thinking buying the X1 series premixes guys! What you think? I really worry destroying my blocks though, anyone using them for long term?


After doing some research, I decided to try X1 (Clear) 250ml concentrate.
I believe it should not be a problem to use it long term and should not have any adverse effects on your waterblocks.
But, I will let Mayhems chime in.


----------



## Gomi

I would not mind being a tester for the New UV Emerald Green, and I have loads of UV-light in stock.

Bear in mind though that I am running Orange UV tubes at the same time (Masterkleer), so it would "only" be visible in the Reservoir on the pictures, though the Orange and Green UV could create a "cool" synergy effect, though I have *NO* idea how Green UV fluid would behave/look inside Orange UV tubing (And my google-fu fails me on the subject).

System:

3770K
Gigabyte Z77X-UP7
QUAD eVGA GTX 680 Classified Hydro Copper
G.Skill TridentX 2666Mhz
MaxFinder Triple Braided Extension Cables (Full set) - Orange.

(It is the system in my signature).

Would require a whopping 3 liters - MORA 3 PRO (9X140mm) takes alot of fluid to fill.


----------



## mavisky

So looking to light up my watercooled HAF XB with some Mayhem UV Green in my Micro-Ress reservoirs and Tygon lines Would 4 4" tubes and 1 12" UV CCFL tubes be enough to get them to glow for me?


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rognin*
> 
> I DEMAND a build log linky.... NAOW!


Sorry







i never did a build log for it .


----------



## Mayhem

@Reystar x1 should not destroy blocks in any way. Any premix that does wouldn't be fit for purpose. UV Pink will stain and this is normal for any UV pink or UV red active coolant.


----------



## namron

DELETED!!!!


----------



## Nornam

The X1 is a fantastic premix, IMO the best on the market.. Had it running in my 800D now for nigh on two years now & it's still looking as clear as when I put it in (with a touch of yellow & blue mayhems dye to make a real cool looking light green)..

The tubing is still looking clear & no staining or block blockages at all over the years I been using Micks X1 fluid..

I regulary use the X1 with several of Mayhems dyes & have neer had any issues at all...So for me it comes most highly recommended

N.

Edit!!.... I'm not sure what happened there.. for some reason I got logged in as namron (above) who isn't me.. but this post is me... If you get my drift... So not sure what or how that happened??

N.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Damn I'd be all over that offer if I didn't just buy the Mint Green Pastel for my loop like three weeks ago...

I have two 12" UV CCFLs (Logisys brand) and all clear tubing, res with window, and my frosted EK block D:


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Who would like some samples of the New UV Emerald Green Premixed liquids.
> 
> You must have a min of 50 posts and most be able to post back pics and thoughts on the products in this forums in this thread. If you do not have UV lights then its pointless you saying yes.
> 
> Put you systems specs below with how many ltrs you think you will need , It comes in concentrate or fully blown coolant. EU get Full blown 1Ltr Coolant and Out of EU get 250ml concentrate.


Just saw this after I posted. Would be down to try this out with the UV rig mentioned above 4 x 4" uv, 1x 12" uv CCFL

1/4x3/8" tygon clear tubing running through an H80 block and a Swiftech Microres foir my cpu

1/2x5/8" tygon clear tubing running through another swiftech microres and dual swiftech universal blocks and sli bridge on my GTX-560ti's. I'd love to try some concentrate out.


----------



## Mayhem

@mavisky Email me you full specs please and how many ltrs you need,. to michael at mayhems dot co dot uk. Ill send you over some samples.

@Nornam Same as above please,

@Gomi Same again as above

@TheBlademaster01 It doesn't matter if you a noob or not the more mistakes you make the better







.contact me as above the same as the others.

Guys dont forget to add you full names, address and telephone numbers so we can post this stuff you. Make sure you add you country as well.

mick


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @mavisky Email me you full specs please and how many ltrs you need,. to michael at mayhems dot co dot uk. Ill send you over some samples.
> 
> @Nornam Same as above please,
> 
> @Gomi Same again as above
> 
> @TheBlademaster01 It doesn't matter if you a noob or not the more mistakes you make the better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .contact me as above the same as the others.
> 
> Guys dont forget to add you full names, address and telephone numbers so we can post this stuff you. Make sure you add you country as well.
> 
> mick


Emailed.


----------



## NomNomNom

I'd love to test the new emerald green UV.
Running 1/2 3/4 durlene with xspc res-top on a DDC 3.2 with swiftech 360mm rad and a xspc rasa. Would need about 2L.


----------



## mavisky

e-mailed.

Thank you for the opportunity.


----------



## Rakin

Damn, my UV lights broke a few months back.


----------



## akira749

50 posts minimum...so sad when you have 46 (now 47) posts but I understand the requirement









I hope to see some setup photos soon because that could be the replacement color scheme of my "New Beginning" rig soon!


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> 50 posts minimum...so sad when you have 46 (now 47) posts but I understand the requirement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope to see some setup photos soon because that could be the replacement color scheme of my "New Beginning" rig soon!


I should stop posting too much. I'm nearing 9,000 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @mavisky Email me you full specs please and how many ltrs you need,. to michael at mayhems dot co dot uk. Ill send you over some samples.
> 
> @Nornam Same as above please,
> 
> @Gomi Same again as above
> 
> @TheBlademaster01 It doesn't matter if you a noob or not the more mistakes you make the better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .contact me as above the same as the others.
> 
> Guys dont forget to add you full names, address and telephone numbers so we can post this stuff you. Make sure you add you country as well.
> 
> mick


I don't have UV lights and not really a fan of it either. I was planning to build a new rig and use green coolant but I'm not sure when I'll start on that (low funds). I would have to decline . Really awesome of you to offer this chance though, thanks for your generousity mick. I'll continue advising everyone to use Mayhems coolant lol


----------



## Mayhem

Oky guys only a couple more left to give out. We need to make sure users who get the coolants are going to post and we may send some more out afterwards depending on if the current users post there pics and comments.

@NomNomNom send me a email as in the above post please don't forget full name, address, telephone number. These details are never kept and are only used for sending the gear out. We need telephone Nos for customs only. If your parcel gets trapped there they have a contact ref point.


----------



## AMDHulk

So I got my Mayhem Blue Dye Today I apologize for the pictures my camera phone is terrible.


Here is my old coloring "Mayhem Mint Green Pastel"


I added the blue dye about 15-20 drops to get the dark "Hulk" green I wanted these are the results


One with the purple CCL off, and I am very pleased.


*Thanks Mayhem*


----------



## Biafra1987

@Hulk

There is another way that you can follow to get this colour AND make it UV reactive. Look up my posts and you will see. You get mayhems pastel white, emerald green dye, and UV yellow/green. You add all the emerald green to the white and make it dark with few drops of your blue. Than you can go with the yellow to adjust the tone of green to what you want. I went for a bit lighter one than you but it depends on when you stop with UV yellow. And it is UV reactive in the end







You can try that with your next change of the coolant


----------



## Mayhem

@AMDHulk thank you for showing you work. Very good.


----------



## AMDHulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biafra1987*
> 
> @Hulk
> 
> There is another way that you can follow to get this colour AND make it UV reactive. Look up my posts and you will see. You get mayhems pastel white, emerald green dye, and UV yellow/green. You add all the emerald green to the white and make it dark with few drops of your blue. Than you can go with the yellow to adjust the tone of green to what you want. I went for a bit lighter one than you but it depends on when you stop with UV yellow. And it is UV reactive in the end
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can try that with your next change of the coolant


I might just do that thanks for the advice


----------



## Wookieelover

Is there any way to get the X1 Oil Black any darker?
Would i just add more concentrate?


----------



## Lutfij

@ Mike - Even though I qualify for the samples...I'll hold out until another flavor is offered







I could get the UV green now, but I won't find a use for it until say a few months from now. Eager to see how the pics turn out to be


----------



## Clockwerk

I'm looking to switch colors from emerald green to one of the blues. Performance-pcs has clear blue, deep blue, ocean blue and uv blue. The only one with pics is ocean blue. Does anybody have pics for comparison between clear blue and deep blue, no UV lights in case so not worried about UV blue. Looking for a shade of blue to pair with the corsair fans but don't want the pastel since it seems too light for my tastes. Thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockwerk*
> 
> I'm looking to switch colors from emerald green to one of the blues. Performance-pcs has clear blue, deep blue, ocean blue and uv blue. The only one with pics is ocean blue. Does anybody have pics for comparison between clear blue and deep blue, no UV lights in case so not worried about UV blue. Looking for a shade of blue to pair with the corsair fans but don't want the pastel since it seems too light for my tastes. Thanks


You have more pictures on the FrozenCPU website.

Dark Blue : http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18041/ex-liq-358/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Dark_Blue.html?tl=g30c337s1809

Ocean Blue : http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18042/ex-liq-356/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Ocean_Blue.html?tl=g30c337s1809

For the clear blue it's a UV dye so it's a no for you...

The Deep Blue on the PPCS website has more pictures on the detail page http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_1072&products_id=36300

Of course the best matching color would have been the Blueberry Pastel but it's out the equation









So personally I think Ocean Blue would be your best match...a little greener so it kinda reach the color of those Corsair fans


----------



## Clockwerk

Yeah, the blueberry pastel looks like it is the best match for the fans, but it just isn't the shade of blue for me. I was thinking of trying the ice white pastel and adding blue dye to it and seeing how it turns out. Hopefully it stays close enough to the fan color that it isn't really noticeable, but gives me a darker shade of blue.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockwerk*
> 
> Yeah, the blueberry pastel looks like it is the best match for the fans, but it just isn't the shade of blue for me. I was thinking of trying the ice white pastel and adding blue dye to it and seeing how it turns out. Hopefully it stays close enough to the fan color that it isn't really noticeable, but gives me a darker shade of blue.


Okay so it's not the pastel coolant side that was not your cup of tea but the color shade...so in this case maybe you could start with the blueberry pastel and add some deep blue dye to darken the shade.


----------



## walden emrys

A while back there was someone testing Primochill Advanced LRT tubing. Did he get the results in? Does it discolor with Pastel?
Also I've seen on the Mayhems website that they are selling Tygon E-1000. Is that the tubing that Mayhems officially recommends now?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *walden emrys*
> 
> A while back there was someone testing Primochill Advanced LRT tubing. Did he get the results in? Does it discolor with Pastel?
> Also I've seen on the Mayhems website that they are selling Tygon E-1000. Is that the tubing that Mayhems officially recommends now?


I would like to know how it reacts with Primochill Advanced LRT as well


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky guys only a couple more left to give out. We need to make sure users who get the coolants are going to post and we may send some more out afterwards depending on if the current users post there pics and comments.


Hi Mick is there any samples left?

I would need concentrate for a loop of 1.5 liters approx.

My WC setup is :

XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
2X EK GTX 560Ti Blocks
2X XSPC RX360 Radiators
Alphacool D5 Pump
Bitspower Z-Tank 250 Reservoir
Tubing is 1/2"ID X 3/4"OD presently UV Blue but I will change it to some Clear one to go with the Mayhems Coolant








All Matte Black Bitspower Fittings

4X UV CCFL 30cm


----------



## Reystar

Where can i find Mayhems products in Europe? :S The official website seems not to be able to ship to Greece (kinda bad)


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Where can i find Mayhems products in Europe? :S The official website seems not to be able to ship to Greece (kinda bad)


http://www.aquatuning.de/index.php/cat/c877_Ready-to-use.html

Got some


----------



## Reystar

I use the Mayhems X1 UV Green Concentrate - 250ml, which they dont have (other colours wont matter, but still)


----------



## Gomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> I use the Mayhems X1 UV Green Concentrate - 250ml, which they dont have (other colours wont matter, but still)


http://highflow.nl/koelvloeistof/kant-en-klaar/mayhems-x1-uv-green-coolant-1l-md-x1-uvg.html - Only other place I know of in the EU that ships nearly anywhere. It is the pre-mixed though.


----------



## Mayhem

Try Greece now its enabled.


----------



## Reystar

I wonder why Mayhems do not ship everywhere...they are based in Europe but they don't even ship in Europe? It's like they don't want to sell stuff lol.


----------



## Mayhem

Raystar use our distro that's what they are there for. May be we are busy manufacturing liquids, giving support, developing new liquids, testing new liquids in bulk and working our butts off and don't have time to open up a big shop hence our re-sellers do that for us.


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Raystar use our distro that's what they are there for. May be we are busy manufacturing liquids, giving support, developing new liquids, testing new liquids in bulk and working our butts off and don't have time to open up a big shop hence our re-sellers do that for us.


Hmm yeap havent thought of that.


----------



## Clockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Okay so it's not the pastel coolant side that was not your cup of tea but the color shade...so in this case maybe you could start with the blueberry pastel and add some deep blue dye to darken the shade.


Right. I actually like the look of pastel, just not the shade. I wasn't sure whether to start with white and add blue dye or start with blueberry and try to darken it.


----------



## Mayhem

Just go with white and add blue sorted







.,


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just go with white and add blue sorted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .,


Good to know but would their be any problems going with the pastel blue and add some dye to darken it?

I'm asking that because for the loop of my build in progress i ordered Pastel Red and Deep Red Dye in case I wont the pastel to be darker of a match with the sleeving.


----------



## Mayhem

None at all.


----------



## Biafra1987

For general information I did some mixes of pastel white and emerald green in different ratios. You can see how it reacts on more dye. Also there is a glass with pastel white and deep purple in the pic.
FYI:





I ended up with the mix I described before (UV reactive, you can see pics in my gallery and on one picture below).



I've been looking on google for simillar mixtures before I started with all of that and was not able to find anything. In case someone else would be interested I will leave the pictures here.


----------



## TeamBlue

just ordered the new black/uvblue x1 from ppcs, I'll post up some pics when I receive it.


----------



## WaitWhat

Got the Pastel Blue in my case, looks awesome


----------



## Mayhem

Good morning Guys and Girls. Please don't send any more requests to me to be part of the UV Emerald Green Test , Samples are going out all ready and some were given away on face book. A total of 50 bottles have gone out for testing now. thats more than enough to get peoples reaction and information.


----------



## walden emrys

Mayhems, do you officially have Tygon E 1000 as your recommended tubing since you sell it on the website? Also have you tested Primochill Advanced LRT? I'm in the middle of a build and would like to know what kind of tubing to use that doesn't have plasticizer.


----------



## Gomi

Earlier this week I started the car and went to the only place I am 100% sure have the cleanest non-leaking tubing there is .... A Wine/Alcohol making shop. I asked about their tubing and when he mentioned the price I nearly had to pick up my jaw from the floor - It was more or less free (Compared to the outrageous prices some companies charge for their "Pro" tubing with 100 different "Advanced" features).

This stuff does what it should, carry fluid to the different parts - It does it without leaving plasticizer, because no-one wants wine/alcohol with gunks in it.

So my advice - Leave the different companies and their junk-products. Find a wine/alcohol making shop and if you for whatever reason want colored tubing just dye it yourself.


----------



## walden emrys

Unfortunately there's no wine shops around where I live.


----------



## Dredknot

Holy crap My 3 LED uv strips from Phobya just came in and WOW. These things are so bright just one of them was about 10x stronger then all of my CCL bulbs put together. Now I really can see the mayhems dye at work lol. I would HIGHLY recommend anyone using UV bulbs to replace them with these. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14102/lit-288/Phobya_LED_Flex_Light_36_Count_SMD_LED_Light_Strip_-_30cm_-_UV_83126.html

Warning! Standing to close may cause sunburns...


----------



## Fyrwulf

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23092&catid=491

That stuff is not any more expensive than the re-branded Tygon cast-offs that some companies sell at huge markups.


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Holy crap My 3 LED uv strips from Phobya just came in and WOW. These things are so bright just one of them was about 10x stronger then all of my CCL bulbs put together. Now I really can see the mayhems dye at work lol. I would HIGHLY recommend anyone using UV bulbs to replace them with these. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14102/lit-288/Phobya_LED_Flex_Light_36_Count_SMD_LED_Light_Strip_-_30cm_-_UV_83126.html
> 
> Warning! Standing to close may cause sunburns...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Those look amazing. I May have to change up what I'm using in my case after seeing that. I'm smelling another Frozen CPU order. May wait until after I get the Mayhem dye for a before and after comparison.


----------



## Mayhem

@walden emrys Primochill Advanced LRT we haven't tested so cannot comment, if we did test it and it did work i would be very happy to say it would. The E-1000 i have and it works fine how ever over a period of time it goes yellow but that's what happens to most tubing anyway.

@Gomi yes i use our wine makers a lot because there tubing range is vast how ever they don't do plastersizer free stuff but they are now looking into it once i took samples down to show them







.

@Dredknot excellent pics well done.

@Fyrwulf that tubing is made by Saint Gobain who all so make tygon 0_o. BTW tygon is really expensive and its not cheap. Re-sellers struggle to get it in and have to make a profit . why sell it if there giving it away.

Some Led flex strips have a limited range of UV spectrum so wont work very well with UV Clear blue. that's all im saying ...


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Fyrwulf that tubing is made by Saint Gobain who all so make tygon 0_o. BTW tygon is really expensive and its not cheap. Re-sellers struggle to get it in and have to make a profit . why sell it if there giving it away.


I think you misunderstood. The tubing I linked is anything but cheap in price or quality, in fact the specs on it are so ridiculous that the sort of chemical reactions that cause plasticizer creep shouldn't pop up for years. My comment was directed at companies like PrimoChill which do their best to make it sound like they have the facilities to research, develop, and manufacture their own tubing in their marketing when nothing could be further from the truth. If they're going to lie in their marketing, why should I pay nearly $2.50/ft for something that I'm not even sure is what they claim it is?


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh wasnt having a go. I have respect for these companies as they have paved the way forwards and have made what water cooling is today. With out them we would still be using rads off cars and moto bikes and hard plumbing every thing.

news for thouse who don't know btw

Saint Gobain is replacing TYGON R-3603 with TYGON E-3603 June 2013 SGPPL will stop production of all laboratory grade tubing containing DEHP and December 2013 will cease the sale of tubing containing DEHP


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Saint Gobain is replacing TYGON R-3603 with TYGON E-3603 June 2013 SGPPL will stop production of all laboratory grade tubing containing DEHP and December 2013 will cease the sale of tubing containing DEHP


Huh, that's interesting. Do you think they're aware that their lab tubing is used for water cooling or is this to comply with a government regulation?


----------



## Mayhem

Goverment, all so the fact that its leaching into food, they have known for a long time but like all greedy companies wont do any thing till the government's make them or until companies stop buying the products and ask for a change. Problem is they been moving over the last year or so but i think this is why more tubing is leaching more. There alternative is just as bad. Maybe not as toxic but leaches still.


----------



## Lutfij

Sigh - its always the consumers that are the sacrificial lamb









Shout out to more honest people(and businesses) like yourself, Mike, and Nils!!!


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

I am just confused about the freezing point of Mayhems Pastel. Some stores it says it's -8 degrees celsius, and other stores say it's 8 degrees celsius. Can I get this cleared up? As I am going to be using a chiller, and I need to know if I can use pastel, otherwise I will just use XT-1


----------



## Mayhem

its -8 but i would suggest not using it in a chiller at all its a bad idea. Go XT-1 and be safe. if you would like me to work on a pastel that "may" work Sub zero correctly let me know and ill try do a 1 off for you.


----------



## walden emrys

Alright, so I am tired of waiting for someone else to test Primochill Advanced LRT so I went ahead and bought some myself to see whats up with it. My plans are to get a section of the tubing and fill it with Pastel concentrate, let it sit for a while and see if the tubing discolors. Is this a good idea or should I use it with a live system?

Edit: And how long should I let the tubing sit?


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *walden emrys*
> 
> Alright, so I am tired of waiting for someone else to test Primochill Advanced LRT so I went ahead and bought some myself to see whats up with it. My plans are to get a section of the tubing and fill it with Pastel concentrate, let it sit for a while and see if the tubing discolors. Is this a good idea or should I use it with a live system?
> 
> Edit: And how long should I let the tubing sit?


Actually, that's a great idea. If nothing else, it establishes a baseline for at least one brand of tubing. Just fill it up to 3/4 full so that when you drain it, any plasticizer problems are obvious. As for how long, I would say take weekly notes for six months.


----------



## spad007

Mayhems Pastel Coolant

Mayhems Pastel is a mixed bag of tricks and has a extremely long life span. This product was developed in conjunction with "Ice Dragon Cooling" to produce pastel type colours for the PC user. Mayhems Pastel Coolants can be used up to 3 years in a system.

Do not use Mayhems Pastel with Primochill tubing or Tygon tubing as Mayhems Pastel seems to react with it changing the colour of the tubing to a greenish colour. This is not the fault of Primochill, Tygon or Mayhems it is just a incompatibility issue. Pastel works fine with XSPC, Thermochill, Clear Flex, Masterclear and a few other brands.

Mayhems Pastel is a every day type liquid unlike Mayhems Aurora and can be used in all systems and has never had any reported problems as such.

Colours Mayhems Pastel comes in as standard in 250ml concentrate and 1 ltr premixed.
White (this is the base mix you can change to any colour)
Red
Blue
Pink
Green
Yellow
Orange
Purple
UV White (this is only available in 1 Ltr premix and cannot be made in 250ml concentrate)

As far as you know is it still safe to use Masterclear? tubing with Mayhems Pastel.
or will it leach plastisizer ?


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spad007*
> 
> As far as you know is it still safe to use Masterclear? tubing with Mayhems Pastel.
> or will it leach plastisizer ?


There have been some reported issues, but unless someone has reported a complete pump failure with any tubing I wouldn't necessarily deem it unsafe. Expensive and perhaps unwise to use, but not unsafe.


----------



## Mayhem

it does leach with pastel over a given time frame we've had several reports of this happening but it varies. We haven't seen it leech in our systems though. How ever we have made it leach in testing but this is the big but! i contacted the maker of the tubing and was told there is 6 versions of it .. i gave up at that point since it takes us at least 2 weeks to test 1" of tubing on a single sample.

Testing tubing is a massive task and there are too many variables to draw a convulsive conclusion.

Allso its very hard for some one like us to be proved as independent and a lot of companies would take grate offence if you approached them and said excuse me your tubing is leaching and this is why. No one would ever work with us again if we started doing that. We found this out from one re brander who all ready tried to blame us and said we pulled the tubing off a system to make it look like it was the tubing they all so called me some thing i cannot repeat on here.. but that's what it is like in this business a lot of back stabbing and jealousy and its some thing we have no interest in.


----------



## walden emrys

Unless the tubing is plasticizer free tubing, its going to eventually leech into the system. There are a lot of plasticizer free tubing out though including some of the tygon used for chemical and medical purposes as well as the new Primochill Advanced LRT and a few others online. Just google plasticizer free tubing to learn more.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> but that's what it is like in this business a lot of back stabbing and jealousy and its some thing we have no interest in.


I really don't understand this attitude. The community is relatively small and the money pool isn't so large that any sort of nastiness is warranted. Actually, the really big businesses in the big industries seem fairly professional over all. You're far more understanding than I would be, because in your position I'd be posting any correspondence online and wrecking them.


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *walden emrys*
> 
> Unless the tubing is plasticizer free tubing, its going to eventually leech into the system. There are a lot of plasticizer free tubing out though including some of the tygon used for chemical and medical purposes as well as the new Primochill Advanced LRT and a few others online. Just google plasticizer free tubing to learn more.


So Primochill Advanced LRT won't have as many issue's due to it being plasticiser free?


----------



## Mayhem

@ALMOSTunseen the only plasticizer free tubing we have tested so far is the E1000 from Tygon thks to PPCs. I cannot comment on some thing we have never had. The E1000 works perfectly fine how ever it is not suited to every one. If Primochill would like to give us some to test so we can give it the thumbs up i would gladly put the effort in and do the work totally free of charge. Other wise you really need to go what others say.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @ALMOSTunseen the only plasticizer free tubing we have tested so far is the E1000 from Tygon thks to PPCs. I cannot comment on some thing we have never had. The E1000 works perfectly fine how ever it is not suited to every one. If Primochill would like to give us some to test so we can give it the thumbs up i would gladly put the effort in and do the work totally free of charge. Other wise you really need to go what others say.


I will be more than happy to pay for you to get some tubing Mayhem, you let me know how to pay for it for you and I will gladly reimburse you


----------



## Systemlord

I fill a plastic sealed bowl today with distilled water using the included testing strips and my distilled tested right on pH level of 6 (green), but when I added one drop of the Extreme Biocide it dropped to a pH level of 4 yellow. I'm confused on the results?


----------



## Mayhem

The Ph level of distilled should be 7 and adding 1 drop of biocide to 1 Ltr should bring it down to 6.5. adding more than that is a no no. If any thing Distilled or Ultra Pure should be around 7 to 8.5 normally not the other way around.


----------



## walden emrys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALMOSTunseen*
> 
> So Primochill Advanced LRT won't have as many issue's due to it being plasticiser free?


It wont have any issues as far as plasticizer is concerned, however it hasn't been tested with Mayhems Pastel which can turn certain tubing different colors (I am going to test it after I get my shipment in on Saturday).


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The Ph level of distilled should be 7 and adding 1 drop of biocide to 1 Ltr should bring it down to 6.5. adding more than that is a no no. If any thing Distilled or Ultra Pure should be around 7 to 8.5 normally not the other way around.


Where did you buy that digital PH meter?


----------



## Mayhem

we used 2 diffident ones but my fav is this one (and seems to be the most reliable one too)

http://www.tdsmeter.co.uk/products/ph200.html

We all so have 3 different TDS meters.

Dont forget though that you need calibration liquids too.


----------



## POMLORE

spad007 Take a look this, that's Masterkleer tubing and pastel UV white


----------



## Dmz96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *POMLORE*
> 
> spad007 Take a look this, that's Masterkleer tubing and pastel UV white


Not uv white anymore.... 0____0


----------



## skyhigh2004

So according to the Mayhems website you list several kinds of tubing that are compatible with the pastels. My question is which one will stay clear the longest? There are some pretty bad pics floating around here with different kinds of tubing (like the one above) and would love to get some input on what seems to stay clear the longest since Ill be using Light Red pastel with some deep red dye to get the color shade I want. I have read some good things about XSPC tubing standing up and was curious if it was true. I don't want to use duralene just for the fact that I cant find any company other than Sidewinders that caries it and since that's all i need the shipping is $5 more than the tubing







. I was also wondering if anybody has tried the new Primochil Advance LRT? Thanks in advance guys.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> So according to the Mayhems website you list several kinds of tubing that are compatible with the pastels. My question is which one will stay clear the longest? There are some pretty bad pics floating around here with different kinds of tubing (like the one above) and would love to get some input on what seems to stay clear the longest since Ill be using Light Red pastel with some deep red dye to get the color shade I want. I have read some good things about XSPC tubing standing up and was curious if it was true. I don't want to use duralene just for the fact that I cant find any company other than Sidewinders that caries it and since that's all i need the shipping is $5 more than the tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I was also wondering if anybody has tried the new Primochil Advance LRT? Thanks in advance guys.


I usually get my durelene from sidewinders in 20-30ft rolls so it averages out to be less $ per foot. Either way, still cheaper than a tub of primochill. There is a tubing thread, but so much depends on ph and mixed metals and temps and sunlight and .. and... and... and... that it's hard to say what'll work best for you. Stick to what has been tested and plan on replacing your tube, none of them are perfect.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> So according to the Mayhems website you list several kinds of tubing that are compatible with the pastels. My question is which one will stay clear the longest? There are some pretty bad pics floating around here with different kinds of tubing (like the one above) and would love to get some input on what seems to stay clear the longest since Ill be using Light Red pastel with some deep red dye to get the color shade I want. I have read some good things about XSPC tubing standing up and was curious if it was true. I don't want to use duralene just for the fact that I cant find any company other than Sidewinders that caries it and since that's all i need the shipping is $5 more than the tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I was also wondering if anybody has tried the new Primochil Advance LRT? Thanks in advance guys.
> 
> 
> 
> I usually get my durelene from sidewinders in 20-30ft rolls so it averages out to be less $ per foot. Either way, still cheaper than a tub of primochill. There is a tubing thread, but so much depends on ph and mixed metals and temps and sunlight and .. and... and... and... that it's hard to say what'll work best for you. Stick to what has been tested and plan on replacing your tube, none of them are perfect.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply but it didn't really answer any of my questions. I understand pH and the different metals in a block affect the coolant and tubing. I wanted feedback from Mayhems pastel users on what they have used and what seems to last the longest for them besides duralene. I'm looking for personal experiences. Thanks again guys.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Thanks for the reply but it didn't really answer any of my questions. I understand pH and the different metals in a block affect the coolant and tubing. I wanted feedback from Mayhems pastel users on what they have used and what seems to last the longest for them besides duralene. I'm looking for personal experiences. Thanks again guys.


Cool, and I understand the fact that I didn't answer your question with the answer you were looking for. I guess what I am getting at is: Why would you need to find a different answer? Tons of people have had great success with durelene while using mayhems pastel and ice dragon, myself included. Personally, I haven't seen any discoloration or clouding. Put ten feet of durelene, xspc, primochill, and any other tube in your cart, I can guarantee that durelene is going to be the cheapest. You can get 10 feet of durelene shipped for 18 bucks, whereas 10 feet of xspc or primochill is 25 before shipping. You said that tubing is the only thing you are buying so shipping is going to be a bit steep regardless of where you order from. Just trying to help, sorry if it sounds like I'm trolling.


----------



## SavellM

Would the pastel work fine in Copper tubing?
I want to use the white as then you can see it flow through the CPU block and also GPU block.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Thanks for the reply but it didn't really answer any of my questions. I understand pH and the different metals in a block affect the coolant and tubing. I wanted feedback from Mayhems pastel users on what they have used and what seems to last the longest for them besides duralene. I'm looking for personal experiences. Thanks again guys.
> 
> 
> 
> Cool, and I understand the fact that I didn't answer your question with the answer you were looking for. I guess what I am getting at is: Why would you need to find a different answer? Tons of people have had great success with durelene while using mayhems pastel and ice dragon, myself included. Personally, I haven't seen any discoloration or clouding. Put ten feet of durelene, xspc, primochill, and any other tube in your cart, I can guarantee that durelene is going to be the cheapest. You can get 10 feet of durelene shipped for 18 bucks, whereas 10 feet of xspc or primochill is 25 before shipping. You said that tubing is the only thing you are buying so shipping is going to be a bit steep regardless of where you order from. Just trying to help, sorry if it sounds like I'm trolling.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this reply man. I wanted just this, a testimonial from a user saying don't be stupid "get durelene". Your first reply to me just sounded like you were beating around the bush and referencing other threads info. I wasn't trying to come of like an ass, sorry if I did. Thanks again and any other people with experience with pastels and tubing not clouding or discoloring please feel free to let me know.


----------



## spad007

So it might be safe to use and with pastel raspberry purple color might not matter if it fogs the tubeing a bit,
and i can go ahead and build it planning to upgrade to better tubing if needed later thank you all
for your feedback..


----------



## akira749

I received my Pastel Red Coolant today!!











It's part of my current build so I hope to put pictures of the system soon...


----------



## Mayhem

@TeamBlue thats some real good pro advise there mate.

@skyhigh2004, TeamBlue has give you a near perfect answer there is no perfect tubing or there all about the same. Plastersizer free tubing seems to be the best.

@SavellM Yes you can no issues

@akira749


----------



## Mayhem

Weve got some Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing - 1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD - Crystal Clear On order from PPC for testing as soon as it arrives will will get it straight on test. please give us a few weeks to get it done though. If ever thing goes well we will let you all know.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Would the pastel work fine in Copper tubing?
> I want to use the white as then you can see it flow through the CPU block and also GPU block.


Yes, but please note that pastel has nano particles suspended in a fluid, so you will have a very light abrasion effect. It won't be enough to harm anything physically, but you will have small amount of copper particulate after a few months and if there's any aluminum or nickle coming into contact with the fluid you might get a reaction.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Yes, but please note that pastel has nano particles suspended in a fluid, so you will have a very light abrasion effect. It won't be enough to harm anything physically, but you will have small amount of copper particulate after a few months and if there's any aluminum or nickle coming into contact with the fluid you might get a reaction.


I thought that the pastels also had inhibitors in it to prevent reactions of different metals? Would they not be good enough if you have a few runs of copper tubing in your loop mixed with standard tubing and nickel blocks?


----------



## Mayhem

It has allready been tested with copper tubing and it runs fine. abrasion will happen over about a 3 year period but the nothing to be concerned about how ever i would recommend you change the fluid out after 2 years with copper tubing.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It has allready been tested with copper tubing and it runs fine. abrasion will happen over about a 3 year period but the nothing to be concerned about how ever i would recommend you change the fluid out after 2 years with copper tubing.


That long? I would've thought it would have been shorter.


----------



## Mayhem

we like to surprise people


----------



## benito

finally filled my loop with some pastel


----------



## Fyrwulf

Is that a Koolance chiller I see?


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Weve got some Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing - 1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD - Crystal Clear On order from PPC for testing as soon as it arrives will will get it straight on test. please give us a few weeks to get it done though. If ever thing goes well we will let you all know.


Be prepared for a much stiffer tubing, Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing no longer makes sharp turns like the older Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing! My guess is to add durability it had to lose some flexibility giving it a harder surface.

Sweet looking build there *benito*, a match made in heaven!


----------



## Mayhem

Im not realy interested in bend radius since we can get fittings todo that for us now a days. I think bend radius is out with the ark right now and just good tubing is in







.









We are stocking the E1000 As that has a excellent bend radius how ever it is not as clear but pastel doesn't require high visibility tubing as it is a sold colour were as X1, Aurora and XT1 looks better in clear tubing.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Weve got some Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing - 1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD - Crystal Clear On order from PPC for testing as soon as it arrives will will get it straight on test. please give us a few weeks to get it done though. If ever thing goes well we will let you all know.


Thank you for your continued support of this forum, I for one appreciate that your doing testing on the above tubes


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> finally filled my loop with some pastel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is one sweet green.









The white on the fans seem too look perfect as well, brakes the green and black just enough.

@ Mayhems if someone was to explore this thread and compile a new thread with links or copies of the photo's, would this be allowed? Or even endorsed by Mayhems?


----------



## Mayhem

We have no control of any pictures the users post and you would need to ask there permission out of respect for the individual work







.

We give you the tools. You guys make the master peace.


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Is that a Koolance chiller I see?


if directed to me, i have no koolance products in the build
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> That is one sweet green.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white on the fans seem too look perfect as well, brakes the green and black just enough.


its 1.5 liters of mint green pastel with one drop of Meyhams "dark blue" dye
i thought so too about the fans. i was going to paint the rings green but then i saw the way it looked and was happy with it.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> if directed to me, i have no koolance products in the build.


Yeah, I just took a closer look and saw that it was a CM Storm case. There used to be water chillers that sat right on top of a case, but that was way back in the day.


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Systemlord*
> 
> Sweet looking build there *benito*, a match made in heaven!


thank you


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> finally filled my loop with some pastel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can I haz link to build log if there is one?







My sweetspot for green builds has been set off to the maximum


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Can I haz link to build log if there is one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My sweetspot for green builds has been set off to the maximum


*here* you go


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> *here* you go


Thanks, saw you're build on Mayhems facebook and needed to check it out!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It has allready been tested with copper tubing and it runs fine. abrasion will happen over about a 3 year period but the nothing to be concerned about how ever i would recommend you change the fluid out after 2 years with copper tubing.


That baits another question that I have.

How long should you change your fluid using Pastel and "regular tubine" (ie Durelene)?

Normally I would change my distilled water and Mayhem dye every 3 or 4 months, but with the cost of Pastel, that would get prohibitively expensive. If my temps are good and I don't notice any clogs or other loop issues, are you suggesting that Pastel should be changed every 24 to 30 months?


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Tubing should be changed if there is any discolouration or visible wear and tear. Off the top of my head, pastel should be changed every year or so, or if if there is any change in colour.


----------



## Mayhem

Weve ran it for a maximum time of 3 years. The same time IDC has run in a system. in fact if im correct IDC been running in a system much longer with out change. Ill ask Andrew over at IDC what his max time is now.

Got to add though that in perfect running systems with no issues what so ever.

Mick


----------



## walden emrys

Alright, so I have the Primochill Advanced LRT and it is super clear, pretty flexible, and if it doesn't discolor it could be the perfect tubing. It also comes with a System Prep liquid that you put in some distilled water and flush the system with before putting your coolant in. Not sure if that is necessary or not, but it's a nice addition that probably wouldn't hurt to do. I'll start testing it with Mayhems Pastel tomorrow.


----------



## Mayhem

@walden emrys you sound like a sales guy from primochill. Do you even know what's in sys prep, is it even legal. We cannot find a MSDS Sheet for it on there site.


----------



## walden emrys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @walden emrys you sound like a sales guy from primochill. Do you even know what's in sys prep, is it even legal.


I am not a sales guy from primochill, just trying to find the right tubing for my build (if anyone else has suggestions for tubing that doesn't have plasticizer in it let me know). I don't know whats in the sys prep, it just came in the box with the tubing.


----------



## _REAPER_

I have been using MasterKleer tubing and have not had any clouding issues at all.


----------



## SavellM

Another question:
The Mayhems Ice Dragon Nano Fluid will that work fine in Copper?
And is it clear or is it a sort of pastel colour?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Another question:
> The Mayhems Ice Dragon Nano Fluid will that work fine in Copper?
> And is it clear or is it a sort of pastel colour?


It's pastel white


----------



## _REAPER_

It will work in copper tubes, I am about to try copper tubes once I get home from AFG.


----------



## Kerelm

Anyone used Mayhems purple and found it losing its vibrancy over time?

Mayhem, am I to just keep adding dye to keep the colour bold?

thanks
Kerelm


----------



## Mayhem

If it losing it colour then some thing is not right.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kerelm*
> 
> Anyone used Mayhems purple and found it losing its vibrancy over time?
> 
> Mayhem, am I to just keep adding dye to keep the colour bold?
> 
> thanks
> Kerelm


Yeah, post pics


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *walden emrys*
> 
> I am not a sales guy from primochill, just trying to find the right tubing for my build (if anyone else has suggestions for tubing that doesn't have plasticizer in it let me know). I don't know whats in the sys prep, it just came in the box with the tubing.


All I can find is "SysPrep is a water based none filming cleanser, that has proprietary surfactants and inhibitors that do an excellent job of pre-treating a water cooling loop. It is safe on all plastics, rubbers, and miscellaneous gasket materials, including acrylic. It does not contain any harsh chemicals like acids."

They are not going to disclose the actual ingredients due to legal issues I guess for wanting to keep that private.

I know there are threads where people have used it with no problems but have said it made their tubing a little stiffer after the 24 hour rinse. It is supposed to clean and flush out any flux or buildup. Others have said it does indeed clean their parts quite well without having to take apart and even gets some gunk they couldn't get. However, I haven't used it myself and it's one of those things that is a personal choice. If you have or see issues with your system that may need cleaning it wouldn't hurt, otherwise not really important to use.


----------



## Radmanhs

Hi, i have a fluid question for my potentially next ultimate build, i was thinking of going with mayhems pastel ice white and grape red. but the problem is that imo the red is just a little too bright, i think it would look better a little darker, do i just add a drop at a time of pure black until its perfect?

Link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1358404/what-do-you-guys-want-in-an-epic-wced-system-i-want-all-your-ideas


----------



## brian1115

Do these dyes gunk up the blocks/rads and how often do you suggest cleaning/changing them out?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> All I can find is "SysPrep is a water based none filming cleanser, that has proprietary surfactants and inhibitors that do an excellent job of pre-treating a water cooling loop. It is safe on all plastics, rubbers, and miscellaneous gasket materials, including acrylic. It does not contain any harsh chemicals like acids."
> 
> They are not going to disclose the actual ingredients due to legal issues I guess for wanting to keep that private.
> 
> I know there are threads where people have used it with no problems but have said it made their tubing a little stiffer after the 24 hour rinse. It is supposed to clean and flush out any flux or buildup. Others have said it does indeed clean their parts quite well without having to take apart and even gets some gunk they couldn't get. However, I haven't used it myself and it's one of those things that is a personal choice. If you have or see issues with your system that may need cleaning it wouldn't hurt, otherwise not really important to use.


Actually they have a legal right to disclose the msds sheets if requested. How ever like you ive only heard good things about it. The only question is. Is it dangerous ?. if not that's fantastic.

@Radmanhs add blue. Water down 1 drop of blue and then slowly add the water down blue to shade the red.


----------



## billdcat4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes there is, first there is only enough biocides and inhibitor in the bottle for 1 Ltr of fluid, 2nd you have watered down the nano practicals to 1/2 there level and 3rdly it will drop out much much quicker.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Just my opinion on what i would do if i had your rig-not criticism
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove your drivebay cages since you are running SSDs, and mount your 360 vertically in that spot-it will look very neat.
> 
> Good job though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> i don't think it is possible in that case, or it would be a tight fit. and he is running a bay res/pump combo. but in general i would also say to try to house everything within your case.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> He could easily do it -tight fit pffft lol-mod it!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously though-the radiator could be mounted vertically after removal of the HDD cage, the most he might have to do is very slight Dremel work to accommodate the tank part of the rad which will be on top, so as to facilitate very easy connection to the bay res.
> 
> *Update:* Ok i was intrigued, cause i like the Fractal cases-so i did some home work, a 360 wont fit in there vertically unless you remove everything in the front, so its a no go, but it will easily fit a Monsta 240 radiator-food for thought perhaps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 240-Something like what this guy did http://www.overclock.net/t/1103478/custom-loop-cpu-cool-in-fractal-r3
> 
> or this guy did 280 (scroll down a bit ) http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/3820
> 
> R3/R4 practically no difference in measurements.
> 
> So, pushpull configuration radiator tank up top & connection to the bay reservoir will be a cinch.
> 
> Im seriously thinking of getting this little beauty:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8URy-WKm_4
> 
> Anyway, my apologies for going off topic


Hey, been a while since I posted, forgot to check back.
First of all thanks Mayhem for the reply. Is there any way that I can "undilute" the coolant, perhaps by boiling some of the water off?
If I leave the coolant to settle in a bottle, will the active ingredients: biocides, anticorrosives, nanoparticles etc settle to the bottom allowing my to pour the upper layer off and concentrate those ingredients?

So from what I've read, externally mounted radiators have better performance than internally mounted ones. Also, a big factor was my case choice (I also have a CM ATCS840 that can mount a 360 internally). The cooling system is so efficient that I haven't needed to turn the radiator fans on since I've bought it. Load temps go into the mid to high 40s C. This is with the D5 pump set at setting 1 and thats just incredible in my book. I don't plan on using internally mounted radiators unless I upgrade to a Caselabs SM5/8.


----------



## Scorpion49

Hey guys, about to pull the trigger on a huge loop including some Mayhems Pastel Mint Green. I really like the look of clear tube with opaque fluid, however I would like to have it a little bit darker (more of an emerald/foresty green). What is the best way to get this result?

Also, interested in the results of that SysPrep stuff too, I was trying to find the best way to clean out my loop prior to putting the Mayhems in.

EDIT: Nevermind, google turned up that which OCN search could not earlier in this thread, add blue dye to make it darker.


----------



## Killa Cam

yo mayhem, i want to dye my distill water in purple. can i achieve a deep dark purple while still being translucent with only dye?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> yo mayhem, i want to dye my distill water in purple. an i achieve a deep dark purple while still being translucent with only dye?


The deep purple dye can achieve that very easily. That's what i use.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian1115*
> 
> Do these dyes gunk up the blocks/rads and how often do you suggest cleaning/changing them out?


NO. The dyes / coolant will not.

Plastic-sizer (not sure about spelling) is the main reason for systems having problems.

This is the reason behind people hunting for the magical tubing that does not gunk up. And the dis-coloring thing as well.


----------



## Mayhem

@billdcat4 no the premix is a active coolant so if you boil it, it will no longer work.

@Scorpion49 Yes you just add blue dye







.

@Killa Cam Yes just add Purple and it can still be translucent.


----------



## brian1115

can I add mayhems pastel white to distilled water to increase the amount of solution while keeping and not diluting the white colour?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian1115*
> 
> can I add mayhems pastel white to distilled water to increase the amount of solution while keeping and not diluting the white colour?


I believe No, But you can run it slightly more concentrated.


----------



## billdcat4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @billdcat4 no the premix is a active coolant so if you boil it, it will no longer work.


Ok. If I buy another 250mL bottle of concentrate, I should be able to mix it with some of the diluted coolant to increase its concentration.

Assuming my coolant is at half of the optimal concentration (.5M) and I want to dilute it to the optimal concentration (1M): X is the volume of diluted coolant that I need to add to .25L of concentrate
since the .25L of concentrate is meant to be mixed with .75L of water, the concentrate concentration should be 4M.

( X(.5M) + .25(4M) )/ (X + .25) = 1M
.5X + 1 = X + .25
.75 = .5X
X = 1.5L
So adding .25L of concentrate to 1.5L of my diluted coolant should produce 1.75L of coolant with the optimal concentration

Additionally, since my current tubing is the plasticizer XSPC tubing, I'll likely buy a 10ft pack of durelene from Amazon. Thanks for the excellent support.


----------



## spad007

No one tolded me that water cooling would require math.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> This is the reason behind people hunting for the magical tubing that does not gunk up. And the dis-coloring thing as well.


Maybe. Silver in any sort of loop containing brass or bronze is a bad idea, putting silver in any sort of loop containing aluminum (in contact with the water) is going to destroy your loop. Mixing nickel-copper and copper-tin/copper-zinc alloys is not safe because the anodic index of the alloys used by various block, rad, and fitting manufacturers is not published.

Diving into this issue like I have has given me an idea of what I want to do for a business once I get my degree. I actually know of a copper alloy that is more thermally conductive than gold and is a lot tougher than pure copper; if it weren't for the low machinability factor it would be an ideal block/rad material.


----------



## Mayhem

Wow ive just been lost in a maths post ...

@billdcat4 you can add no more than 50 to 100ml to a concentrate how ever it will lose some of its opacity We don't recommend any one does this how ever it has been done by several users..









@Fyrwulf will look forwards to seeing what you come up with







.

*Advance Pre Warning*: Holiday time for me from march the 25th 2013 till April the 5th 2013 i wont be around as im taking my kids away for a week. Please don't abuse me over emails or Pms if i don't answer


----------



## _REAPER_

Have a good Holiday


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Fyrwulf will look forwards to seeing what you come up with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I have _ideas_ dude. The funny thing is none of it is convoluted or overly crazy, in fact it makes me wonder why _nobody_, so far as I know, hasn't done what I'm thinking of.


----------



## _REAPER_

What do you suggest my friend is running Pastel White right now but wants to make it UV Blue


----------



## billdcat4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Wow ive just been lost in a maths post ...
> 
> @billdcat4 you can add no more than 50 to 100ml to a concentrate how ever it will lose some of its opacity We don't recommend any one does this how ever it has been done by several users..


Hey, sorry about the math. I was just suggesting a way to bring my diluted coolant back to the optimal configuration. After the math it works out to 1 250mL bottle of concentrate + 1.5L of diluted coolant = 1.75L of optimal coolant

Enjoy your vacation!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What do you suggest my friend is running Pastel White right now but wants to make it UV Blue


Add Mayhems Dark Blue one drop at a time.

It does take time to even the color out.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Add Mayhems Dark Blue one drop at a time.
> 
> It does take time to even the color out.


He would need to add uv clear blue to get a uv blue color. If he wants it blue in regular light, then deep blue would also be needed.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> He would need to add uv clear blue to get a uv blue color. If he wants it blue in regular light, then deep blue would also be needed.


Thank you for the info


----------



## SavellM

Out of curiosity, what would be the general performance increase in:
Mayhems Ice Dragon Nano Fluid over Mayhems Pastel - Ice White


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> What do you suggest my friend is running Pastel White right now but wants to make it UV Blue
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Add Mayhems Dark Blue one drop at a time.
> 
> It does take time to even the color out.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> He would need to add uv clear blue to get a uv blue color. If he wants it blue in regular light, then deep blue would also be needed.


Very sorry I didn't see the "UV"


----------



## Mayhem

@SavellM IDC is a better performance over Pastel Ice white. Pastel ice white is made for looks not for performance. There is about a 3c increase from IDC to Mayhems Pastel Ice white depending on systems used. These results have varied from system to system though so i cannot give a guaranteed accurate answer.

@_REAPER_ Pastel Ice White + UV Clear Blue dye + Blue dye will give you what you need or Pastel Blue + UV Clear Blue (this is the cheaper option), Or Pastel UV white + blue dye (this is the best option for UV effectiveness), how ever UV light pastel doesn't work as well as clear coolants due to the nano partials soak up the UV rays were as clear coolant lets them though.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Here is a photo of my Mayhems Pastel custom gray coolant. Build log coming soon:


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> Here is a photo of my Mayhems Pastel custom gray coolant. Build log coming soon:


Holy mother of tubes batman..


----------



## twerk

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> Here is a photo of my Mayhems Pastel custom gray coolant. Build log coming soon:





I have no words...


----------



## brian1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I believe No, But you can run it slightly more concentrated.


I found on frozencpu.com that under the specifications it says to mix 750ml of distilled water with 250ml of the mayhems solution....? Is that how the pastels are supposed to work?


----------



## ginger_nuts

That's correct.









I have not even used a liter in my build, which is a RX240 + EX240 + Rasa Block + 2xEK Uni Blocks + 80mm Tube res. + Pump and tubing.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian1115*
> 
> I found on frozencpu.com that under the specifications it says to mix 750ml of distilled water with 250ml of the mayhems solution....? Is that how the pastels are supposed to work?


Yes, the directions are on the bottle as well. For my system I needed about 2 1/2 bottles so make sure you get what you need for the size of your build.


----------



## Scorpion49

I just ordered mine with my loop, I hope I got enough with one bottle. I might get some more just to be safe.


----------



## Scorpion49

EDIT: holy cow double poast


----------



## Scorpion49

EDIT: holy cow TRIPLE poast!


----------



## akira749

Quick question...what would be the best recipe to achieve cyan blue? It can be pastel or not it doesn't matter.

One thing is that I don't want to acheive it ONLY when i'm in UV mode. So the basic color has to be cyan









Thanks!


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Got me two bottles of Pastel Red..... All I use is regular distilled water with no minerals added correct?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Got me two bottles of Pastel Red..... All I use is regular distilled water with no minerals added correct?


No, once finished you need to post pictures









P.s. I have a link that I am trying to start a gallery


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> No, once finished you need to post pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.s. I have a link that I am trying to start a gallery


LOL, will do...


----------



## Mayhem

There are many types of cyan blue.

Start off with White base, add the blue dye to you hit the colour you need, then add UV clear Blue, it will have no effect on the main colour as it is clear.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> There are many types of cyan blue.
> 
> Start off with White base, add the blue dye to you hit the colour you need, then add UV clear Blue, it will have no effect on the main colour as it is clear.


Yeah I know I realize that sorry









Here's what I have in mind...



So I'd like to achieve something between the blue/green in the middle of the color chart


----------



## papapun

So just finished up my build last night, still working the bubble out. If you have any tips it would be a great help. I'm using the swifttech malestorm bay res. As for coolant I'm using Mayhems Mint green pastel with UV yellow/green dye.


----------



## Fieel

Any thoughts about the Mayhems UV Clear Blue Dye?
Also i already ordered the Phobya Zuperzero ultra pure water fluid to mix the dye with, hope there aren't problems with such a mix.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *papapun*
> 
> So just finished up my build last night, still working the bubble out. If you have any tips it would be a great help. I'm using the swifttech malestorm bay res. As for coolant I'm using Mayhems Mint green pastel with UV yellow/green dye.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can't tell ya exactly what I like about your build, the coloring, the simple tube lay out, the fittings, the case

BUT I can tell you I like it lots!!!!!!


----------



## brian1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> That's correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have not even used a liter in my build, which is a RX240 + EX240 + Rasa Block + 2xEK Uni Blocks + 80mm Tube res. + Pump and tubing.


How long does the Mayhems Pastel Ice White UV last for before you will need to change it. I believe I saw it is good for 2-3yrs but with distilled water I know people swap it out after 6months - 1yr. If anyone could help me determine the maintenance date on this product that would be great thanks


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian1115*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> That's correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have not even used a liter in my build, which is a RX240 + EX240 + Rasa Block + 2xEK Uni Blocks + 80mm Tube res. + Pump and tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> How long does the Mayhems Pastel Ice White UV last for before you will need to change it. I believe I saw it is good for 2-3yrs but with distilled water I know people swap it out after 6months - 1yr. If anyone could help me determine the maintenance date on this product that would be great thanks
Click to expand...

Mayhems states up to 2 years system life as long as nothing gets into the coolant like contamination. I personally would go 18-24 months between changing it.


----------



## ivoryg37

Just got some Pastel Red in my bitfenix build.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yeah I know I realize that sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I have in mind...
> 
> 
> 
> So I'd like to achieve something between the blue/green in the middle of the color chart


Oky thats a bit different. ill play this weekend and match that colour for you and let you know how to make it. Give me 48 hrs please.

@Fieel Max we had is 3 years. coolant was dumped at this point. How ever and i do state this. There was no problems with the loop. no flakes, no contaminating and no direct sun light. If you would like a risk free first clean you loop toughly, don't have it in direct sun light, don't use UV lights, give the loop a good rinse, fill it and leave it alone. Do not mess on with it and every thing will be fine. Now for a normal person this is near imposable as we all love to mess.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Do not mess on with it and every thing will be fine. Now for a normal person this is near imposable as we all love to mess.


This is so true.

My loop has been untouched for about 2-4months. And it is killing me not having enough money to change the things I wan't









Oh this also includes the Pastel color from Blue to Red or Orange


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky thats a bit different. ill play this weekend and match that colour for you and let you know how to make it. Give me 48 hrs please.


Okay this is great!! You're a kind man Mick!!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Just got some Pastel Red in my bitfenix build.


I am really liking the red. That looks like it could be my next color for my build


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Please sleeve your cables







Otherwise, looks awesome.


----------



## ivoryg37

It is actually my brothers case I put together for him so I don't really want to spend too much time on sleeving a corsair 430 since its non modular


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieel*
> 
> Any thoughts about the Mayhems UV Clear Blue Dye?
> Also i already ordered the Phobya Zuperzero ultra pure water fluid to mix the dye with, hope there aren't problems with such a mix.


UP D:


----------



## TheBlademaster01

My coolant does this in the res:



Don't ask me why the pic is rotated 

Why is it seperating dark from light? There is no pump installed in the dark compartment btw. Is this just the result of the coolant being motionless for a long period of time?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Its doing that because the water only leaves and returns to the one side of the reservoir. Even though you have them joined the other side is relatively very isolated from turbulence and the koolant has settled out into its heavier and lighter components.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Okay, so this is not bad for the loop ?


----------



## Mayhem

its nano fluids and does this when left alone for a while.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> its nano fluids and does this when left alone for a while.


Oh okay, thanks







. Do you have any idea how I could shake it up, or should I just ignore it







?


----------



## Mayhem

in that type of res the pump is supposed to be connected to the back. If running a D5 turn up the speed. There needs to be flow, if there is no flow then the mixture doesn't mix.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

The pump is on the left side of the res. There's already a layer of foam on top of the coolant and a lot of pressure on the hoses. I have a CPU only loop and the pump is in mode "2" if that says anything.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> The pump is on the left side of the res. There's already a layer of foam on top of the coolant and a lot of pressure on the hoses. I have a CPU only loop and the pump is in mode "2" if that says anything.


Just leave it, if it bothers you more, install a second pump on the right side to keep things moving.

Also that foamy looking stuff, means you have collected more air from the loop, with the system off, top up the res. a bit more.

The less air in the system the better.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> The pump is on the left side of the res. There's already a layer of foam on top of the coolant and a lot of pressure on the hoses. I have a CPU only loop and the pump is in mode "2" if that says anything.


Turn up your pump I run mine on LVL 5


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Isn't that dangerous/bad for performance?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Less air in a loop the less work your pump will do. (only minimal performance difference)

Also minimizes the risk of putting air through the pump. (once again only minimal chance of actual damage)

Plus air will expand and contract, which alters the actual pressure in the loop. (Also very minimal chance of any actual damage)

So if you have any left overs, it is safer to top it up. If you have no left overs no biggy.

So do not panic it should be safe no matter what.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Less air in a loop the less work your pump will do. (only minimal performance difference)
> 
> Also minimizes the risk of putting air through the pump. (once again only minimal chance of actual damage)
> 
> Plus air will expand and contract, which alters the actual pressure in the loop. (Also very minimal chance of any actual damage)
> 
> So if you have any left overs, it is safer to top it up. If you have no left overs no biggy.
> 
> So do not panic it should be safe no matter what.


I still have like 500mL of coolant left so that shouldn't be a problem. It's just that the dark compartment is already really full to the point that it spills fluid once opening the thumbscrew in front.

i was more talking about whether running the pump at lvl 5 is safe since there's already quite a bit of overpressure.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> I still have like 500mL of coolant left so that shouldn't be a problem. It's just that the dark compartment is already really full to the point that it spills fluid once opening the thumbscrew in front.
> 
> i was more talking about whether running the pump at lvl 5 is safe since there's already quite a bit of overpressure.


I only have a CPU being watertcooled at this time and I run my pump at LVL 5 always.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Well i have to say primochill primoflex advanced tubing is amazing, ran it for two months and had zero plasticizer and clouding, but destroyed my tubing by adding Mayham's Pink UV dye which stained my tubing pretty bad, never again will i use Pink anything! lol









** Me draining the Pink UV dye out my loop **









** From left to right primochill primoflex advanced Crystal Clear> Stained Crystal Clear> Bloodshed Red **









** Computer Re-Tubed **


----------



## Mayhem

yup we warn uv pink it stains







. we are honest about our dyes. either that or we actucaly test our own dyes like normal humans and let you know the real results.

We have our primochill advance now and have to say it does look nice the only issue is i never got enough for my loop







i need more hahaha.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> yup we warn uv pink it stains
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . we are honest about our dyes. either that or we actucaly test our own dyes like normal humans and let you know the real results.
> 
> We have our primochill advance now and have to say it does look nice the only issue is i never got enough for my loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i need more hahaha.


I am more than happy to contribute the tubes for your pc sir, you do alot for this community and would gladly give back.


----------



## vaporizer

.

Edit
Sorry for the dot. I had to do some catch up on the thread. I plan on using the concentrate in my new scratch case. Not sure if I should go with the XT or the XT-1 with blue dye. I can't wait to fish my kill coil out of the res.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Red Pastel......


----------



## Biafra1987

@Up

This looks sick! Wow. But if you could take a picture with something else than a sandal I would like it even more. Upload a HQ picture because it looks really cool.


----------



## AMDHulk

Thinking of swapping out my green pastel for some purple coolant - to much green currently in my system was gonna get different compression fittings and tubing also hopefully tygon e1000. Any ideas of what of mayhems to get? Maybe white pastel and make my own purple, if so I guess red and blue dye would be the way to go right?


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biafra1987*
> 
> @Up
> 
> This looks sick! Wow. But if you could take a picture with something else than a sandal I would like it even more. Upload a HQ picture because it looks really cool.


LOL, will do... Thanks!

EDIT: Hope these are better...


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> LOL, will do... Thanks!
> 
> EDIT: Hope these are better...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You need to turn off your flash to eliminate the bright light problem that's reflecting in the photos.


----------



## NASzi

Just ordered some pastel white for my Stryker : )


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Just order PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing for running mint green pastel in. I will be okay with that right?


----------



## Pipp

According to Mick they are still testing the Advanced LRT tubing.


----------



## mavisky

Pictures should be up this weekend.

Misspelled while on the crapper via my Droid Razr


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipp*
> 
> According to Mick they are still testing the Advanced LRT tubing.


Darn okay. I may wait a little while until mick says something otherwise.


----------



## _REAPER_

I am hoping that the Advanced LRT is good to go, I have been using MasterKleer with no issue though


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yeah I know I realize that sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what I have in mind...
> 
> 
> 
> So I'd like to achieve something between the blue/green in the middle of the color chart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oky thats a bit different. ill play this weekend and match that colour for you and let you know how to make it. Give me 48 hrs please.
> 
> @Fieel Max we had is 3 years. coolant was dumped at this point. How ever and i do state this. There was no problems with the loop. no flakes, no contaminating and no direct sun light. If you would like a risk free first clean you loop toughly, don't have it in direct sun light, don't use UV lights, give the loop a good rinse, fill it and leave it alone. Do not mess on with it and every thing will be fine. Now for a normal person this is near imposable as we all love to mess.
Click to expand...

Hi, did you have the chance or the time to look at it?

Thanks


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh i did ill get some pics up tomorrow when i get some time. Sorry been a bit overloaded at this end.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh i did ill get some pics up tomorrow when i get some time. Sorry been a bit overloaded at this end.


This is great!!

Don't worry you can take your time


----------



## Mayhem

UPDATE : PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Working, Tygon E1000 Working. "DEHP" free tubing is recommended for use with Mayhems pastel coolants.

*What is DEHP*

First off the EU has been pushing to ban "DEHP" (since 2011) in medical equipment for the last few years and finally manufacturers are now taking up the proposals. The ban if it goes though will be enforced with in the next few years so if manufactures don't move over they could find them facing some severe penalties if and only if the proposals go though.

DEHP is highly lipophilic (fat soluble). When used in PVC plastic, DEHP is loosely chemically bonded to the plastic and readily leaches into blood or other lipid-containing solutions in contact with the plastic. In water Cooling terms "DEHP" is what has been causing Gumming up of water cooling blocks for years and people have been wrongly blaming the coolants because of this. When "DEHP" reaches temps of around 38c and above the leaching process is exasperated in our findings and this is when problems start to occur. Also the use of some biocides also do not help and cause the "DEHP" to leach at a faster rate.

The reason why some people do not have a issue and some do is all down to the temperature of the liquid inside your system. The hotter your water is the more apparent the problem becomes. E,g If running a 2 x 120mm rad on a system that has a GPU and CPU block then the risk of "DEHP" leaching is higher than is running the same system on a 3 x 120mm rad with the same fan speeds and though put.

Some sources of information for you ->

DEHP - the penis shrinking chemical -> http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2011/06/24/europe-bans-penis-shrinking-chemical-america-does-not.aspx
Wikipedia - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bis(2-ethylhexyl)_phthalate
DEHP Information centre - http://www.dehp-facts.com/RA

There are many forms of tubing out there and "DEHP" is in a lot of them. Tubing that is "DEHP Free" is not a cheap as tubing that contains "DEHP" how ever would you rather spend a few pounds, euros or dollars more on some thing that is going to help keep your system clean and gum free. the choice is yours.

*Primochill we salute you for leading the way







.*


----------



## ginger_nuts

Very informative.

Thanks for this.

I vote to have this as a sticky, note or something.


----------



## AMDHulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> UPDATE : PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Working, Tygon E1000 Working. "DEHP" free tubing is recommended for use with Mayhems pastel coolants.
> 
> *What is DEHP*
> 
> First off the EU has been pushing to ban "DEHP" (since 2011) in medical equipment for the last few years and finally manufacturers are now taking up the proposals. The ban if it goes though will be enforced with in the next few years so if manufactures don't move over they could find them facing some severe penalties if and only if the proposals go though.
> 
> DEHP is highly lipophilic (fat soluble). When used in PVC plastic, DEHP is loosely chemically bonded to the plastic and readily leaches into blood or other lipid-containing solutions in contact with the plastic. In water Cooling terms "DEHP" is what has been causing Gumming up of water cooling blocks for years and people have been wrongly blaming the coolants because of this. When "DEHP" reaches temps of around 38c and above the leaching process is exasperated in our findings and this is when problems start to occur. Also the use of some biocides also do not help and cause the "DEHP" to leach at a faster rate.
> 
> The reason why some people do not have a issue and some do is all down to the temperature of the liquid inside your system. The hotter your water is the more apparent the problem becomes. E,g If running a 2 x 120mm rad on a system that has a GPU and CPU block then the risk of "DEHP" leaching is higher than is running the same system on a 3 x 120mm rad with the same fan speeds and though put.
> 
> Some sources of information for you ->
> 
> DEHP - the penis shrinking chemical -> http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2011/06/24/europe-bans-penis-shrinking-chemical-america-does-not.aspx
> Wikipedia - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bis(2-ethylhexyl)_phthalate
> DEHP Information centre - http://www.dehp-facts.com/RA
> 
> There are many forms of tubing out there and "DEHP" is in a lot of them. Tubing that is "DEHP Free" is not a cheap as tubing that contains "DEHP" how ever would you rather spend a few pounds, euros or dollars more on some thing that is going to help keep your system clean and gum free. the choice is yours.
> 
> *Primochill we salute you for leading the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .*


Oh no penis shrinking better not use it


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> UPDATE : PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Working, Tygon E1000 Working. "DEHP" free tubing is recommended for use with Mayhems pastel coolants.
> 
> *What is DEHP*
> 
> First off the EU has been pushing to ban "DEHP" (since 2011) in medical equipment for the last few years and finally manufacturers are now taking up the proposals. The ban if it goes though will be enforced with in the next few years so if manufactures don't move over they could find them facing some severe penalties if and only if the proposals go though.
> 
> DEHP is highly lipophilic (fat soluble). When used in PVC plastic, DEHP is loosely chemically bonded to the plastic and readily leaches into blood or other lipid-containing solutions in contact with the plastic. In water Cooling terms "DEHP" is what has been causing Gumming up of water cooling blocks for years and people have been wrongly blaming the coolants because of this. When "DEHP" reaches temps of around 38c and above the leaching process is exasperated in our findings and this is when problems start to occur. Also the use of some biocides also do not help and cause the "DEHP" to leach at a faster rate.
> 
> The reason why some people do not have a issue and some do is all down to the temperature of the liquid inside your system. The hotter your water is the more apparent the problem becomes. E,g If running a 2 x 120mm rad on a system that has a GPU and CPU block then the risk of "DEHP" leaching is higher than is running the same system on a 3 x 120mm rad with the same fan speeds and though put.
> 
> Some sources of information for you ->
> 
> DEHP - the penis shrinking chemical -> http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2011/06/24/europe-bans-penis-shrinking-chemical-america-does-not.aspx
> Wikipedia - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bis(2-ethylhexyl)_phthalate
> DEHP Information centre - http://www.dehp-facts.com/RA
> 
> There are many forms of tubing out there and "DEHP" is in a lot of them. Tubing that is "DEHP Free" is not a cheap as tubing that contains "DEHP" how ever would you rather spend a few pounds, euros or dollars more on some thing that is going to help keep your system clean and gum free. the choice is yours.
> 
> *Primochill we salute you for leading the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .*


*Mayhem* are you pushing hotter than usual coolant temperatures to accelerate the process?


----------



## Martinm210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> UPDATE : PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Working, Tygon E1000 Working. "DEHP" free tubing is recommended for use with Mayhems pastel coolants.
> 
> *What is DEHP*
> 
> First off the EU has been pushing to ban "DEHP" (since 2011) in medical equipment for the last few years and finally manufacturers are now taking up the proposals. The ban if it goes though will be enforced with in the next few years so if manufactures don't move over they could find them facing some severe penalties if and only if the proposals go though.
> 
> DEHP is highly lipophilic (fat soluble). When used in PVC plastic, DEHP is loosely chemically bonded to the plastic and readily leaches into blood or other lipid-containing solutions in contact with the plastic. In water Cooling terms "DEHP" is what has been causing Gumming up of water cooling blocks for years and people have been wrongly blaming the coolants because of this. When "DEHP" reaches temps of around 38c and above the leaching process is exasperated in our findings and this is when problems start to occur. Also the use of some biocides also do not help and cause the "DEHP" to leach at a faster rate.
> 
> The reason why some people do not have a issue and some do is all down to the temperature of the liquid inside your system. The hotter your water is the more apparent the problem becomes. E,g If running a 2 x 120mm rad on a system that has a GPU and CPU block then the risk of "DEHP" leaching is higher than is running the same system on a 3 x 120mm rad with the same fan speeds and though put.
> 
> Some sources of information for you ->
> 
> DEHP - the penis shrinking chemical -> http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2011/06/24/europe-bans-penis-shrinking-chemical-america-does-not.aspx
> Wikipedia - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bis(2-ethylhexyl)_phthalate
> DEHP Information centre - http://www.dehp-facts.com/RA
> 
> There are many forms of tubing out there and "DEHP" is in a lot of them. Tubing that is "DEHP Free" is not a cheap as tubing that contains "DEHP" how ever would you rather spend a few pounds, euros or dollars more on some thing that is going to help keep your system clean and gum free. the choice is yours.
> 
> *Primochill we salute you for leading the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .*


Interesting, so it sounds like DEHP is in all sorts of plastic including plastic bottles. Not just tubing it sounds like it is in most all plastics including the fluid bottles we use. They said some medical tubing is almost 80% this stuff by weight.

Probably in the acrylic and acetal plastics we have in block too?


----------



## Mayhem

@Systemlord Yeh we have done accelerated testing to see what the main issues were and what caused leaching. We have also tested the DEHP in the same situations (this has been going on now for over 9 months of testing.

Test was done like so ->

All tubing was tested using the following procedures.

• Clean sterile glass containers

• A) 25c constant temp with stirrer
• B) 35c constant temp with stirrer
• C) 45c constant temp with stirrer

• 1) Ultra Pure water @ 0.01TDS / 0.01Us
• 2) 20% Vegetable extract, 80% UPW (5% to 15% is normally used in premixes)
• 3) 20% Ethylene Glycol, 80% UPW (5% to 15% is normally used in premixes)
• 4) 20% Propylene Glycol, 80% UPW (5% to 15% is normally used in premixes)
• 5) 20% Potassium Formate, 80% UPW (5% to 15% is normally used in premixes)
• 6) 100% UPW, Silver Kill Coil
• 7) 100% UPW, 5 drops of Biocide Extreme
• 8) 100% UPW, 5 drops of Biocide Extreme, Silver Kill Coil
• 9) 100% tap water
• 10 )100% Halfords DI water

* Later on we started testing Pastel Ice White. to see its effects.

Each 10mm peace of tube from the different manufacturers had to go though all of these tests. We've only tested id say about 5% of the markets tubing as it basically became a mammoth task so we just took some select samples and spent the last few months going though it all to see what the real issues were. So there was a total of 10 tests at 3 different temps each test was run for 5 hours in total. We took measurements before and after each test and checked under the microscope the tubing as each market point to see how much was leached out of the plastic. We then left the tube for 48 hours in a sealed container and re checked it to see if it had reformed back.

We came to the simple conclusion heat is the main issue followed by biocide used. We would love to have more time to investigate but these tests were done for us and us alone to find out what the issues are so we can better understand our users concerns and support you guys better with real world knowledge and a better understanding. Also to see if we needed to adjust out mixtures at all.

It would be nice to see some real scientific studies into this but alas we cannot afford to do such tests and im sure no one else out there is prepared to throw money at such testing.

@Martinm210 DEHP is in a lot of stuff but if you speak to manufacturers of bottles you can get it with out it. I know ours do not contain it as this is some thing i checked early on. Also if you check out some posts by me on XS from a good few years ago i said that certain 25 Ltr jerry cans we had been making liquids in seemed to have a high PPM count compared to other barrels. We found out this was due to DEHP and leaching.

What people need to remember though is DEHP is a plasticizer and all that is happening is DEHP is being replaced by a different plasticizer so again this issue may rear its ugly head but in a different form later on. We will just have to sit back and see what happens.


----------



## Martinm210

Interesting, thanks for doing all that work.







Heat does make sense and probably why I have never run into it. A greater than 5c delta just doesn't happen when I run a quad rad per component..









This is probably why they also recommend against using a microwave to heat foods inside plastic containers. All that crap just bakes into your food too.


----------



## AMDHulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Systemlord Yeh we have done accelerated testing to see what the main issues were and what caused leaching. We have also tested the DEHP in the same situations (this has been going on now for over 9 months of testing.
> 
> Test was done like so ->
> 
> All tubing was tested using the following procedures.
> 
> • Clean sterile glass containers
> 
> • A) 25c constant temp with stirrer
> • B) 35c constant temp with stirrer
> • C) 45c constant temp with stirrer
> 
> • 1) Ultra Pure water @ 0.01TDS / 0.01Us
> • 2) 20% Vegetable extract, 80% UPW (5% to 15% is normally used in premixes)
> • 3) 20% Ethylene Glycol, 80% UPW (5% to 15% is normally used in premixes)
> • 4) 20% Propylene Glycol, 80% UPW (5% to 15% is normally used in premixes)
> • 5) 20% Potassium Formate, 80% UPW (5% to 15% is normally used in premixes)
> • 6) 100% UPW, Silver Kill Coil
> • 7) 100% UPW, 5 drops of Biocide Extreme
> • 8) 100% UPW, 5 drops of Biocide Extreme, Silver Kill Coil
> • 9) 100% tap water
> • 10 )100% Halfords DI water
> 
> * Later on we started testing Pastel Ice White. to see its effects.
> 
> Each 10mm peace of tube from the different manufacturers had to go though all of these tests. We've only tested id say about 5% of the markets tubing as it basically became a mammoth task so we just took some select samples and spent the last few months going though it all to see what the real issues were. So there was a total of 10 tests at 3 different temps each test was run for 5 hours in total. We took measurements before and after each test and checked under the microscope the tubing as each market point to see how much was leached out of the plastic. We then left the tube for 48 hours in a sealed container and re checked it to see if it had reformed back.
> 
> We came to the simple conclusion heat is the main issue followed by biocide used. We would love to have more time to investigate but these tests were done for us and us alone to find out what the issues are so we can better understand our users concerns and support you guys better with real world knowledge and a better understanding. Also to see if we needed to adjust out mixtures at all.
> 
> It would be nice to see some real scientific studies into this but alas we cannot afford to do such tests and im sure no one else out there is prepared to throw money at such testing.
> 
> @Martinm210 DEHP is in a lot of stuff but if you speak to manufacturers of bottles you can get it with out it. I know ours do not contain it as this is some thing i checked early on. Also if you check out some posts by me on XS from a good few years ago i said that certain 25 Ltr jerry cans we had been making liquids in seemed to have a high PPM count compared to other barrels. We found out this was due to DEHP and leaching.
> 
> What people need to remember though is DEHP is a plasticizer and all that is happening is DEHP is being replaced by a different plasticizer so again this issue may rear its ugly head but in a different form later on. We will just have to sit back and see what happens.


And this is why I choose mayhems coolant over all the others, great coolant and constant testing.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi, did you have the chance or the time to look at it?
> 
> Thanks





This is Emerald Green In different stages with pastel. flash on / flash off




Emerald Green + Yellow (Flash on / Flash Off)




Emerald Green With 1 to 2 drops of blue added (Flash on / flash off)

@akira749 hope this helps you.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Mayhems clearly being awesome


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is Emerald Green In different stages with pastel. flash on / flash off
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Emerald Green + Yellow (Flash on / Flash Off)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Emerald Green With 1 to 2 drops of blue added (Flash on / flash off)
> 
> @akira749 hope this helps you.


Of course it helps!!!

You're the man!

Thanks!!


----------



## khemist

Some pastel white in mine











I've got some emerald green dye for when i get bored of the white... might be a long time!.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Looks really good man (PCmoddermike would drool over that rig ). Why the copper block though, nickel would've looked a bit better IMO


----------



## khemist

I like copper better and at the time there were EK nickel corrosion problems.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Looks really good man (PCmoddermike would drool over that rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Why the copper block though, nickel would've looked a bit better IMO


Haha funny you mention that....I was just in here taking a peek.









But yes, that is very nice khemist.


----------



## _REAPER_

I am thinking to go with black or red on my next build, not sure still deciding


----------



## Mayhem

A warning to any one using a new system or second hand system.

Flush your new / second hand system correctly. Don't think just because its new it is clean, because it is not. Wash it out with bicarbonate of soda then wash of with any type of pure water.

If you don't and you are using Pastel Red it will change colour in your system if it is too acidic. This is not the fault of the liquid this is the fault of the user not preparing there system correctly.

Like any thing in life look after it and it will look after you.


----------



## Mayhem

From "Monster PC" (harry) on FB


----------



## Scorpion49

I can post this here too, I added some emerald green to my water that will be flushed later in favor of the pastel. Had to have a little "flavor" while I leak/temp check. Took a LOT of drops to get to this color and I would still like it darker.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just a little darker would look fantastic.

Really dig the green


----------



## mavisky

Updated pic with lighting of the new Emerald Green UV Reactive in a very very light distillation in my system. Will probably be adding more to each loop as I go. Still playing around with the final look of the loop.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I can post this here too, I added some emerald green to my water that will be flushed later in favor of the pastel. Had to have a little "flavor" while I leak/temp check. Took a LOT of drops to get to this color and I would still like it darker.


Looks great!, like mouthwash.


----------



## BorisTheSpider

I can't believe it's been my tubing that's been shrinking my penis all this time. What kind of tubing do I need to buy to enlarge it?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BorisTheSpider*
> 
> I can't believe it's been my tubing that's been shrinking my penis all this time. What kind of tubing do I need to buy to enlarge it?


1/2" tubing









Seriously no harm intended


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 1/2" tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously no harm intended


No, that would just increase his epeen.


----------



## voldomazta

Anybody got an idea on what stirrer he's using in this video?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyezjUb76lY

It looks like a magnetic stirrer but I can't find anything like it.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

It's a vortex lamp, I believe Mick already answered that one 

it's common in a gadget shop


----------



## voldomazta

Hah. Sorry if it's already been answered. Here I thought I was going to build myself a magnetic stirrer.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

They should make a Mayhems edition and sell it. I think a lot of people would buy it. Mayhems Inside


----------



## Fyrwulf

No, it's a glass stirrer you can get from any place that sells chemistry equipment. Glass is completely nonreactive in PH in any fluid that isn't an exotic superacid, which is why it's used.

EDIT: Sorry, I didn't realize you were talking about the vortex lamp


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh its a vortex lamp nothing more. weve got about 10 of them. You can get them on the net if you look around.


----------



## voldomazta

Already ordered me the components on the pastel blood red video. I wanted everything to be the same so I'ma get this vortex lamp too.


----------



## Fieel

Guys, if i take some complex Mayhems mixture like the galaxy purple/blue nebula and add in it some tears of Mayhems UV blue reactive dye what would be the effect? Tried to find something like that but couldn't find anything


----------



## Swiftes

Used to use the Mayhems UV Orange Dye 2-3 years ago when I last had a rig, definitely going to be getting myself some pastel white for this build!


----------



## Mayhem

UV and Aurora do not work well together it will only show as a mist / haze and nothing more.

Aurora uses light to reflect back at you, UV absorbs light and make it brighter.


----------



## kkorky

Mick, i have been trying to get across similar facts(your post on DEHP) after research on various types of PVC based products and tubing ofc

-have a read of this, and if you buy the PDF(http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/ppap.201200005/abstract), you'll learn even more mate.

Looks like the tubing manufacturers have also been reading the forums, because they are finally starting to implement recent research done on PVC based tubing-better late than never









http://www.materialsviews.com/barrier-coating-reduces-plasticizer-leaching-from-pvc/

One thing i would personally advise though (*emphasis on my train of thought*)- i would not use any sys scrub or similar abrasive chemicals that come with certain tubing,
the damage will not be initially noticeable,
but it will be there(and im not referring specifically to tubing)

-others in this forum have also agreed with this train of thought-noted modders- look in the Cooling gallery thread.


----------



## Mayhem

We have been talking to re-sellers for a long time about it and working with them. How ever The problem is only tiny and only a very small percentage of people have issues. Unless some are not reported. This looks different on a forum as only people with complaints make a fuss were the people who don't have a issue have nothing to say. So the situation looks worse than it actually is, all though yes its still a issue.

We will see more tubing going down the DEHP free route how ever the only concern is what will it be replaced with !. Are we just going to go around in full circle.

As for chemicals that clean the system i cannot comment as i have never tested them and i would love to see the MSDS sheet for that first and test it first to see its real effects.


----------



## Mayhem




----------



## akira749

Very nice review!


----------



## MrKJ

Hello there, I'm looking for a good coolant and biocide and have been recommended your products








This will be the setup it is used in:

Res/Pump combo
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Swiftech-Maelstrom-Dual-525-Reservoir-with-1-x-MCP35X-PWM-Pump-and-Temperature-Monitor--MAELSTROM-35X-pid-16842.html

CPU block
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-Supremacy-CSQ-Universal-CPU-Waterblock--Full-Copper-pid-16442.html

GPU block (2x)
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/ek-fc580-gtx-acetal.html

GPU bridge
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-FC-Bridge-Dual-Parallel-3-Slot-CSQ-Design--Acetal-pid-16336.html

Rads
1.http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-240mm-Dual-Radiator--Full-Copper-pid-15304.html

2.http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Alphacool-NexXxoS-UT60-Full-Copper-240mm-Dual-Radiator-pid-14818.html

Compression fittings
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Bitspower-14-Thread-Compression-Fitting-for-38-ID---58-OD-Tubing-Matt-Black--BP-MBCPF-CC3-pid-11601.html

Valve
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Bitspower-14-Thread-Ball-Valve-Matt-Black--BP-MVV-MBK-pid-16130.html

Q rotary
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Bitspower-Rotary-Q-Connector-14-to-3-x-Female-Matt-Black--BP-MBQR-C-pid-14109.html

Male to male
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Bitspower-14-Thread-to-14-Thread-Male-to-Male--Rotary-Fitting-Matt-Black--BP-MBRG-pid-11528.html

Tubing
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_992_995&products_id=30614
(Trying to find this in Europe -.-)

Fans
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Corsair-Air-Series-120-x-120-x-25mm-1450RPM-SP120-Quiet-Edition-High-Airflow-Case-Fan-TWIN-PACK--CO-9050006-WW-pid-15955.html

Do you have any previous experiences with the parts I listed of malfunctions or problems arising? Most impotantly the tubes, rads and fittings ofc. _(I know not all of them are affected by the coolant and biocide, I'm in a hurry, will edit this later)_
I'm looking to not replace the fluids in the loop toooo often.
My rig is located in a pretty warm area sadly, so will that affect coolant choice?

Thanks for any help or suggestions


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKJ*
> 
> Hello there, I'm looking for a good coolant and biocide and have been recommended your products
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will be the setup it is used in:
> 
> Res/Pump combo
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Swiftech-Maelstrom-Dual-525-Reservoir-with-1-x-MCP35X-PWM-Pump-and-Temperature-Monitor--MAELSTROM-35X-pid-16842.html
> 
> CPU block
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-Supremacy-CSQ-Universal-CPU-Waterblock--Full-Copper-pid-16442.html
> 
> GPU block (2x)
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/ek-fc580-gtx-acetal.html
> 
> GPU bridge
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-FC-Bridge-Dual-Parallel-3-Slot-CSQ-Design--Acetal-pid-16336.html
> 
> Rads
> 1.http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Alphacool-NexXxoS-ST30-240mm-Dual-Radiator--Full-Copper-pid-15304.html
> 
> 2.http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Alphacool-NexXxoS-UT60-Full-Copper-240mm-Dual-Radiator-pid-14818.html
> 
> Compression fittings
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Bitspower-14-Thread-Compression-Fitting-for-38-ID---58-OD-Tubing-Matt-Black--BP-MBCPF-CC3-pid-11601.html
> 
> Valve
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Bitspower-14-Thread-Ball-Valve-Matt-Black--BP-MVV-MBK-pid-16130.html
> 
> Q rotary
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Bitspower-Rotary-Q-Connector-14-to-3-x-Female-Matt-Black--BP-MBQR-C-pid-14109.html
> 
> Male to male
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Bitspower-14-Thread-to-14-Thread-Male-to-Male--Rotary-Fitting-Matt-Black--BP-MBRG-pid-11528.html
> 
> Tubing
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_992_995&products_id=30614
> (Trying to find this in Europe -.-)
> 
> Fans
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Corsair-Air-Series-120-x-120-x-25mm-1450RPM-SP120-Quiet-Edition-High-Airflow-Case-Fan-TWIN-PACK--CO-9050006-WW-pid-15955.html
> 
> Do you have any previous experiences with the parts I listed of malfunctions or problems arising? Most impotantly the tubes, rads and fittings ofc. _(I know not all of them are affected by the coolant and biocide, I'm in a hurry, will edit this later)_
> I'm looking to not replace the fluids in the loop toooo often.
> My rig is located in a pretty warm area sadly, so will that affect coolant choice?
> 
> Thanks for any help or suggestions


I would highly suggest you look at the Pastel range. Concentrate or pre-mix would do everything you need.

I have that tubing, so far so good (about 4 months) mind you mine sees very very little natural light.


----------



## jfarrar

hi guys
am doing a blue theamed build at the moment as i get bored to sell on

eveything is on its way to being done and the prob is what colour mayhems to get????

i know most people will say blue!!!
but i want something contrasting
here are a few pics to let you know what i done

please please help


----------



## Mayhem

@MrKJ

that Pump and res combo - never seen it before please let us know how it goes. As for rads there all made in china what more can i say.

If going for pastel id change tubing for DEHP Free tubing. Before running the coolant though make sure you flush the system fully.

@jfarrar blue, black or grey.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I know that feel bro











Add in some of this color:



EDIT:

Or just like Mick said, grey


----------



## jfarrar

i have been looking and just found pastel sunset yellow
think it will contrast really well

what you think??


----------



## jfarrar

also do you do a pastel uv yellow???


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfarrar*
> 
> i have been looking and just found pastel sunset yellow
> think it will contrast really well
> 
> what you think??


----------



## AMDHulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfarrar*
> 
> i have been looking and just found pastel sunset yellow
> think it will contrast really well
> 
> what you think??


Well if you look at the color wheel the opposite of blue is orange i say a bright orange would work it would give your blue more pop and its very contrasting.

EDIT:

With blue being a "cool color" you would want to go with a "warm color" being something like red, yellow, orange.


----------



## Scorpion49

Okay, so I mixed up my pastel green and proceeded to try and darken it some with the dark blue dye, it seems to be turning a little bit more green. I'd like to go a slightly darker shade, should I just keep going with the blue?


----------



## AMDHulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Okay, so I mixed up my pastel green and proceeded to try and darken it some with the dark blue dye, it seems to be turning a little bit more green. I'd like to go a slightly darker shade, should I just keep going with the blue?


Yes you should. I have green in my system to "the pastel" the i put like 20 drops in + to get the darker color i wanted


----------



## Mayhem

Yes you can add more blue in to get a deeper green. We cannot make "50 shades of green" hence we make it lighter so that users can tint it to the colour they need.

if you check out Brian White is in this months CPU Mag - http://www.computerpoweruser.com/ We have to say thank you from both us and hank over at PPCs for giving us a mention







. We fixed his system with blue dye.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfarrar*
> 
> hi guys
> am doing a blue theamed build at the moment as i get bored to sell on
> 
> eveything is on its way to being done and the prob is what colour mayhems to get????
> 
> i know most people will say blue!!!
> but i want something contrasting
> here are a few pics to let you know what i done
> 
> please please help


I would go with white it will look sweet


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes you can add more blue in to get a deeper green. We cannot make "50 shades of green" hence we make it lighter so that users can tint it to the colour they need.
> 
> if you check out Brian White is in this months CPU Mag - http://www.computerpoweruser.com/ We have to say thank you from both us and hank over at PPCs for giving us a mention
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . We fixed his system with blue dye.


What are your thoughts of the Durelene tubing sold by SideWinders? How do your dyes and coolants react to it?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> What are your thoughts of the Durelene tubing sold by SideWinders? How do your dyes and coolants react to it?


I've only used Mayhem's Deep Purple dye with Durelene, but I used it for months without any issues or clouding.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I've only used Mayhem's Deep Purple dye with Durelene, but I used it for months without any issues or clouding.


Thanks for the input. Checked your log, looks good.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Thanks for the input. Checked your log, looks good.


What are you doing here, playing with water again? lol thought you swore that off?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Okay, so I mixed up my pastel green and proceeded to try and darken it some with the dark blue dye, it seems to be turning a little bit more green. I'd like to go a slightly darker shade, should I just keep going with the blue?


I'm building a huge rig right now and will also be using the pastel green. I personally think you've achieved a perfect lime green as is. I wouldn't change it. Unless maybe you want it to match the sleeve better. Nice job. I'm also using all ek csq parts, looks great.

How many dark blue drops per liter of the pastel did it take to get that color?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> What are you doing here, playing with water again? lol thought you swore that off?


Never really swore it off....just had some down time.


----------



## mironccr345

NVM Wrong Thread


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm building a huge rig right now and will also be using the pastel green. I personally think you've achieved a perfect lime green as is. I wouldn't change it. Unless maybe you want it to match the sleeve better. Nice job. I'm also using all ek csq parts, looks great.
> 
> How many dark blue drops per liter of the pastel did it take to get that color?


Thanks, I have about 1.5 liters so the pastel is a little more diluted than it should be but it still looks good. I used around 20 drops of blue and 5 drops of emerald green to get that color.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes you can add more blue in to get a deeper green. We cannot make "50 shades of green" hence we make it lighter so that users can tint it to the colour they need.
> 
> if you check out Brian White is in this months CPU Mag - http://www.computerpoweruser.com/ We have to say thank you from both us and hank over at PPCs for giving us a mention
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . We fixed his system with blue dye.


Great, I just wanted to make sure more was the right way to go.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> What are your thoughts of the Durelene tubing sold by SideWinders? How do your dyes and coolants react to it?


I am using the duralene and it seems really nice. A crystal clear color rather than blue or yellow tinted like some of the other clear tubing on the marker.


----------



## superericla

Testing any product requires taking a risk, dyes and fluids included. From what I remember, the stuff between Mayhem and B NEGATIVE was worked out (although I may be wrong on that, it was a while ago).


----------



## Killa Cam

yo mayhem, im going to be getting some of your pastel yellow sunset concentrate. if i wanted to darken the yellow a bit, what sort of dye or concentrate would u recommend me use to achieve this?


----------



## Mayhem

Sunset yellow cannot really be darkened as such. If you try to tone it down it will turn orange. The yellow is a pure yellow dye.


----------



## Killa Cam

i see, thanks for the heads up. should look great regardless, thanks. +rep


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel Yellow if you would like to make you own colour is just Yellow and Ice White. So you could make you own so its not as bright using the yellow dye and Ice white. This will make it look like a much lighter yellow and may be not so "in your face".

If you have not ordered it yet fire me a PM before you do and ill sort it out were you can get the yellow separated so that then you can make the yellow to you needs instead of having it pre done. .


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I really need some funds lol. I want to build my ultimate render rig, Nardis isn't quite cutting it. Asrock Extreme6 + 3930K + Pastel White + yellow + Define R4. Should look great with some kind of vanilla colored pastel fluid


----------



## Mayhem

We got a picture and a question today why has my black gone brown.



As explained before if you don't flush your system out correctly (as said on our bottles) and have either Chlorine or a Bad PH balance in your system this needs correcting. If you do not Red dye will fade and disappear hence why black will turn brown as the red is disappearing.

You can easily fix this by flushing your system with "Sodium bicarbonate" (NaHCO3) aka baking soda, bread soda, cooking soda, and bicarbonate of soda. This will correctly align your PH balance of your loop before adding any fluids.

You how ever will need to replace you fluids when this happens.

Also If you can use "DEHP Free" Tubing with pastel this all so helps









Mick


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We got a picture and a question today why has my black gone brown.
> 
> 
> 
> As explained before if you don't flush your system out correctly (as said on our bottles) and have either Chlorine or a Bad PH balance in your system this needs correcting. If you do not Red dye will fade and disappear hence why black will turn brown as the red is disappearing.
> 
> You can easily fix this by flushing your system with "Sodium bicarbonate" (NaHCO3) aka baking soda, bread soda, cooking soda, and bicarbonate of soda. This will correctly align your PH balance of your loop before adding any fluids.
> 
> You how ever will need to replace you fluids when this happens.
> 
> Also If you can use "DEHP Free" Tubing with pastel this all so helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mick


It's mainly an issue of OC3D not being "DERP Free"


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> It's mainly an issue of OC3D not being "DERP Free"


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We got a picture and a question today why has my black gone brown.
> 
> 
> 
> As explained before if you don't flush your system out correctly (as said on our bottles) and have either Chlorine or a Bad PH balance in your system this needs correcting. If you do not Red dye will fade and disappear hence why black will turn brown as the red is disappearing.
> 
> You can easily fix this by flushing your system with "Sodium bicarbonate" (NaHCO3) aka baking soda, bread soda, cooking soda, and bicarbonate of soda. This will correctly align your PH balance of your loop before adding any fluids.
> 
> You how ever will need to replace you fluids when this happens.
> 
> Also If you can use "DEHP Free" Tubing with pastel this all so helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mick


oh hey Orca


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> oh hey Orca


And I wondered why that looked so familiar...


----------



## dark_fighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> It's mainly an issue of OC3D not being "DERP Free"


lol i recognised it too!!!

btw i use mayhems uv blue and deep blue for a year with masterkleer tubing. after a year or so the tubing was greenish (i changed my liquid every 6 months or so), could this be by the deep blue dye or the uv?. Anyhow i have retubed my loop a couple of weeks ago and added many uv blue drops (30+) and one drop deep blue, but now i think that the uv effect is beeing diminished. Before retubing i flushed everything with distilled water. I run my loop with WFI and i don't really know what my PH is (fact is that my loop is second handed). Also i noticed that my dyes bottles are different from the ones at your shop, mine are transparent bottles with white stickers, while yours are full white, although i had purchased the dyes from your shop a year ago. What could i do to make the uv effect to last longer, other than adding more dye???


----------



## Mayhem

Deep blue dye should never change colour as such. UV Clear Blue does fade over time how ever some people have noticed it fading fast some times and is some thing we are looking into atm.

When it comes to masterkleer, we talked to the people who make it and they told us they make 6 different types at that point i gave up. Testing 6 different types of tubing would take for ever and its not some thing im going to do.


----------



## dark_fighter

Ok thanks for the input! But why my bottles are different than the one you are selling in your shop?


----------



## Fieel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Deep blue dye should never change colour as such. UV Clear Blue does fade over time how ever some people have noticed it fading fast some times and is some thing we are looking into atm.
> 
> When it comes to masterkleer, we talked to the people who make it and they told us they make 6 different types at that point i gave up. Testing 6 different types of tubing would take for ever and its not some thing im going to do.


What you mean by UV Clear Blue fading over time? I'm changing all my loop with that dye D:


----------



## Mayhem

@dark_fighter the new 15ml bottles have only been out a short time. Its the same product just more of it







for the same price.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> oh hey Orca


Looks like doo doo.


----------



## _REAPER_

@ Mayhem how is the testing of the Advanced LRT going?


----------



## Mayhem

Very happy with it. Its really good stuff. Not as flexible as the E1000 but that should be of no concern to most as we have bends to sort them issues out







.

It will go yellow over time (if left in direct sunlight) as we did accelerated testing under UVC and changed it yellow but this is normal and should not be taken into consideration. UVB had no effect on the tubing.

Thats all there is really to say about it.


----------



## dark_fighter

@mayhem ok, thanks man!


----------



## Cidd

Just to add a thanks to mayhem, for using different chemical for the UV green than farsers. I created the glowing teal look for my tubing by mixing UV blue tube with mayhems UV green.



I had farsers UV green, but while farsers give out more light, it absorbs same band of UV as the tubing. Meaning the farsers do not shine trough the tubing, at all. The mayhems UV green component absorbs slightly different wavelength and the net result of the two effects is beautiful teal glow.



PS:If you look close to the top right corner, where UV light don't reach so well, you can see the green of the dye.
PPS: note the leek.


----------



## morencyam

Hey guys, quick question. I'm going to be rebuilding my loop within the next few days and am going to be adding some Mayhem's Orange Dye to distilled water. Will I still need to use a kill coil or does the dye itself have antimicrobial additives in it already.
Also, is there any kind of UV Orange dye available?


----------



## Mayhem

Our dyes don't contain any thing but dye and will need some kind of biocide. We dont have a UV orange but you can mix Yellow + UV Pink is small amounts to make a UV orange.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Our dyes don't contain any thing but dye im afford and will need some kind of biocide. We dont have a UV orange but you can mix Yellow + UV Pink is small amounts to make a UV orange.


All I needed to know, thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Our dyes don't contain any thing but dye im afford and will need some kind of biocide. We dont have a UV orange but you can mix Yellow + UV Pink is small amounts to make a UV orange.
> 
> 
> 
> All I needed to know, thanks
Click to expand...

Don't forget that UV Pink = Stain


----------



## MainStageNews

Will your Pastel Sunset Yellow stain Waterblocks like the various Ek's. How often would I have to change it so that there would be slim to no chance that it would stain them? Thanks


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Don't forget that UV Pink = Stain


Not forgotten, thanks. I'm sticking with the regular orange dye. I'm already using orange UV tubes anyway so the only place you'll be able to see the orange dye is the small window in the reservoir. I have an orange LED in the bottom of the res but you can't tell unless there are bubbles for the light to reflect off so I'm hoping that the orange dye will reflect the light of the LED better than just clear distilled


----------



## silent54

I've got a question or two with Mayhem coolants and dyes selections. My current loop has been up and running for almost a year now and I want to make a few small changes. Along with loop changes, I'm looking at a change in the coolant color or distilled water color. I currently use only distilled water and a kill coil. My color comes from UV orange tubing and an orange led string in the res cap. I was looking at using the Pastel Gigabit Orange with the Masterkleer UV orange tubing as the pastel coolant isn't UV reactive. Wasn't sure if that would be too much orange in my case so I was also considering using Pastel Pure Black or Ice White (not so much as not much in my case is white). I was still looking at using these with the UV tubing as well as none of them are UV reactive. It may look good with either of these two colors moving through the orange tubing but only speculating. Any recommendations on a color would help as I'm having a hard time deciding. Also trolling these pages, I see that I could mix different dyes to possibly create a desirable color that would pop in my case. Is there a site that shows possible mixture requirements to get a desired result? I see select posts suggesting dye mixtures but not many with a drop to drop mixture will create a select color. The below image is what I have now but as you can see LED lighting in a res can only do so much. I would consider dropping the UV tubing for clear if I could achieve a UV mixture with a desired color. Thanks for any suggestions.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Our dyes don't contain any thing but dye and will need some kind of biocide.


This doesn't apply to the pastel concetrates right?


----------



## Foolsmasher

I'll be trying out some Mayhem's Deep Red this weekend mixed with Ice Dragon nano fluid. First time using either brand, my wife is betting on a strawberry milkshake in my PC! Hope I can make it red enough.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> This doesn't apply to the pastel concetrates right?


Pastel concentrates have corrosion inhibitors and biocide built in, it says so right on the bottle so you should be safe. Also says not to mix it with any other kinds of those products.


----------



## Mayhem

@Foolsmasher IDC and deep red unless you add lots = Pink you wife will love it ...


----------



## Mayhem

@silent54

1) Use DEHP Free Tubing,.
2) Orange will look good. But get some red dye just in-case would would like to tint it more.
3) You can make Pastel UV active. Its takes a lot of dye though.
4) UV Orange dye will stain badly so id avoid that.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Our dyes don't contain any thing but dye and will need some kind of biocide. We dont have a UV orange but you can mix Yellow + UV Pink is small amounts to make a UV orange.


Good to know....I'm also going to be using just distilled with a dye...and wasn't really sure if I needed to add kill coil.


----------



## Foolsmasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Foolsmasher IDC and deep red unless you add lots = Pink you wife will love it ...


Oh no! I bought 15ML, you think a whole bottle will make it red?

Thanks for your time!


----------



## silent54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @silent54
> 
> 1) Use DEHP Free Tubing,.
> 2) Orange will look good. But get some red dye just in-case would would like to tint it more.
> 3) You can make Pastel UV active. Its takes a lot of dye though.
> 4) UV Orange dye will stain badly so id avoid that.


@Mayhem

Thanks for the reply. Already shelved the UV orange idea as I did come across the post on the staining problem. As for DEHP free tubing, are we only talking about Tygon tubing? It's the only tubing I've come across that says DEHP free and I've only seen clear and black. I still would like the UV glow. I was looking at using UV tubing such as the Masterkleer UV Orange with either Gigabit Orange or Pure Black. I'm leaning toward the Pure Black now running through the orange tubing. But based on posts I've read and vids, I thought Masterkleer tubing worked well with the Pastel colors?


----------



## Mayhem

Primochill Advance LRT tubing is there new tubing that is good and from what i know they are making many colours. My Bad Omen would better at answering that question for you though as hes there testers and can tell you more about there tubing and range.

Masterkleer has 6 different types of tubing and we've seen varying results from it. Some good some not so good but we cannot tell which tubing is which.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silent54*
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> Thanks for the reply. Already shelved the UV orange idea as I did come across the post on the staining problem. As for DEHP free tubing, are we only talking about Tygon tubing? It's the only tubing I've come across that says DEHP free and I've only seen clear and black. I still would like the UV glow. I was looking at using UV tubing such as the Masterkleer UV Orange with either Gigabit Orange or Pure Black. I'm leaning toward the Pure Black now running through the orange tubing. But based on posts I've read and vids, I thought Masterkleer tubing worked well with the Pastel colors?


I'm using XSPC High Flex UV Orange tubing and it's been great for almost two years now. It's a slightly different shade orange than the Masterkleer you used. It's held up very well and really POPS under a UV light


----------



## silent54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Primochill Advance LRT tubing is there new tubing that is good and from what i know they are making many colours. My Bad Omen would better at answering that question for you though as hes there testers and can tell you more about there tubing and range.
> 
> Masterkleer has 6 different types of tubing and we've seen varying results from it. Some good some not so good but we cannot tell which tubing is which.


@ Mayhem

I looked at the Primochill and it doesn't come in Orange. The closest is red. I do remember the post on the Masterkleer types and the problem with differentiating between the types but I may be stuck with going the Masterkleer route. Thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm using XSPC High Flex UV Orange tubing and it's been great for almost two years now. It's a slightly different shade orange than the Masterkleer you used. It's held up very well and really POPS under a UV light


@morencyam

Thanks for the response. I'm not currently using the Masterkleer tubing. It's Feser UV Orange. Was going to switch based on compatibility between tubing and pastel color results. The only problem I see with using the XSPC HF UV Orange tubing is the OD size. My current tubing is 3/8ID w/ 1/2OD. There is a 3/8ID but it has a 5/8OD. Not sure if my compression fittings of 1/2OD would work and would hate to change all of my fittings.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> I'm using XSPC High Flex UV Orange tubing and it's been great for almost two years now. It's a slightly different shade orange than the Masterkleer you used. It's held up very well and really POPS under a UV light


I have the exact same tubing in my build, XSPC High Flex, and so far it's holding up well too. At the time I was adding the Pastel coolant, the Primochill Advanced LRT was fairly new and hadn't been tested. So, I put one run in my loop to see how it does and so far it looks good too.


----------



## Mayhem

@Foolsmasher Sorry missed you post, 15ml all though is a lot of dye IDC is very very strong and need lots of dye to change its colour.


----------



## eskamobob1

just checking real quick that no one has had problems with using mayhem pastel (or IDC) with durlane toobing... correct?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> just checking real quick that no one has had problems with using mayhem pastel (or IDC) with durlane toobing... correct?


Using pastel and duralene, no signs of any problem yet but its only been two weeks.


----------



## dark_fighter

Btw is there a uv white dye, or just a few drops of uv blue on white pastel?


----------



## Mayhem

UV White is Pastel + UV Clear blue but it take more than just a few drops hence why its more expensive.


----------



## Rakin

@Mayhem what is the ideal pH balance for Red dye? Mine has turned pink again for the third time, I'm getting ph strips tomorrow so would like to know what is the pH level I should maintain.


----------



## Wookieelover

Have had no issues so far with Durelene and Primochill advanced and XT-1 coolant.
Both systems got flushed with water and bi-carb.


----------



## Mayhem

Two things can turn red to pink

1) Ph - ideal is Ph7
2) Flux in the rad that is chemically changing the red.

Did you rise out with bi carb as suggested.

Were looking into a better PH resistant red. It under test now and just arrived yesterday.

Dont forget that the fluid is working fine and when you get it is not changed colour so some thing is reacting in your system.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Two think can turn red pink
> 
> 1) Ph - ideal is Ph7
> 2) Flux in the rad.
> 
> Did you rise out with bi carb as suggested.
> 
> Were looking into a better PH resistant red. It under test now and just arrived yesterday.


Have you not considered dumping Bicarb in a loop actually makes it alkaline rather than PH neutral,it swings both ways Mayhems,you need to specify an amount to start with.

How does alkalinity affect your dye?

You actually need to know the process of soldering used before you can determine if flux acid is an issue,most processes use a neutral PH flux that only becomes active above 150c yet is nigh on inactive when cold.
Seeing as these contain no free acid,Im wondering how they can alter the PH significantly of a fluid seeing as the actual contamination level is so low?

Also BiCarb will not get rid of the flux if thats the underlying cause,so all you are really doing is buying time,it will not cure the issue at all.


----------



## Mayhem

No ones suggested B-Carb get rid of flux. "ever" How ever it does fix issues and has been proven to do so many times








. Nothing is perfect in water cooling and nothing ever will be. How ever simple things can be done to help solve issues.

Were working on a new red as we speak and looking for testers who have had problems in the past with changing colours. the new red were working has a much larger PH range and is a new dye that has hit the market recently. Its is all so not as susceptible to chemical reaction as its predecessor. (well that's what is calmed and were hoping to see).

This is one thing about us we will change as needed and we are constantly working on chaining and better our line of products.How ever you know this already.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No ones suggested B-Carb get rid of flux. "ever" How ever it does fix issues and has been proven to do so many times
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Nothing is perfect in water cooling and nothing ever will be. How ever simple things can be done to help solve issues.
> 
> Were working on a new red as we speak and looking for testers who have had problems in the past with changing colours. the new red were working has a much larger PH range and is a new dye that has hit the market recently. Its is all so not as susceptible to chemical reaction as its predecessor. (well that's what is calmed and were hoping to see).
> 
> This is one thing about us we will change as needed and we are constantly working on chaining and better our line of products.How ever you know this already.


It is only a short term solution as the flux,if Acidic,will still be present to contaminate any future fluid.
Can you explain the mechanism by which flux chemically changes dye and how to go about stopping this?

I ask as a customer is interested in a copper coloured fluid,as this will require different dyes I want some way of foolproofing it as i have no wish to have phone calls every month regarding colour loss as you can understand.

I have sat a rad with distilled in it for about a week now and measured the PH,no change as yet but its early doors. Obviously the findings will only be for that manufacturer and method but it should be a good indicator. I have a few other rads I can test also.


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Two things can turn red to pink
> 
> 1) Ph - ideal is Ph7
> 2) Flux in the rad that is chemically changing the red.
> 
> Did you rise out with bi carb as suggested.
> 
> Were looking into a better PH resistant red. It under test now and just arrived yesterday.
> 
> Dont forget that the fluid is working fine and when you get it is not changed colour so some thing is reacting in your system.


Not Bi carb but I did flush it everytime with cooking vinegar. I'll get the pH strips and flush the system with bicarbonate tomorrow.


----------



## silent54

@mayhem

I'm probably going to go with the Pastel Pure Black. I saw you said something about being able to make it UV reactive but would take a good bit of dye. I would assume we are probably talking clear UV blue. My question is would adding the dye change the Pure Black color? If not, how much would I need? Thanks


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It is only a short term solution as the flux,if Acidic,will still be present to contaminate any future fluid.
> Can you explain the mechanism by which flux chemically changes dye and how to go about stopping this?
> 
> I ask as a customer is interested in a copper coloured fluid,as this will require different dyes I want some way of foolproofing it as i have no wish to have phone calls every month regarding colour loss as you can understand.
> 
> I have sat a rad with distilled in it for about a week now and measured the PH,no change as yet but its early doors. Obviously the findings will only be for that manufacturer and method but it should be a good indicator. I have a few other rads I can test also.


Having a radiator sit alone with water, and periodically testing for Ph level is not good enough-that will only give you readings for that particular radiator(no two radiators ever have the same exact amount of flux) with the current water temp (which one would presume is not being altered) on its own, you say that the flux acid becomes active at above 150c-or so claim the manufacturers, there is a chance that even at much lower temps-ie 60-80c (ie load) slight flux seepage is possible









Add to that, the fact that there are many variables within each loop, and you have a cauldron of chemicals which may all interact with each other to cause either high or low Ph levels, one of which flux may well be a viable catalyst.

I have come to learn, that water cooling at our level is not an exact science no matter how hard one may try-for water cooling to be an exact science, every single variable/piece of hardware etc would have to be 100% the same-the environment would also have to be a controlled one etc etc .............


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It is only a short term solution as the flux,if Acidic,will still be present to contaminate any future fluid.
> Can you explain the mechanism by which flux chemically changes dye and how to go about stopping this?
> 
> I ask as a customer is interested in a copper coloured fluid,as this will require different dyes I want some way of foolproofing it as i have no wish to have phone calls every month regarding colour loss as you can understand.
> 
> I have sat a rad with distilled in it for about a week now and measured the PH,no change as yet but its early doors. Obviously the findings will only be for that manufacturer and method but it should be a good indicator. I have a few other rads I can test also.
> 
> 
> 
> Having a radiator sit alone with water, and periodically testing for Ph level is not good enough-that will only give you readings for that particular radiator(no two radiators ever have the same exact amount of flux) with the current water temp (which one would presume is not being altered) on its own, you say that the flux acid becomes active at above 150c-or so claim the manufacturers, there is a chance that even at much lower temps-ie *60-80c (ie load)* slight flux seepage is possible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add to that, the fact that there are many variables within each loop, and you have a cauldron of chemicals which may all interact with each other to cause either high or low Ph levels, one of which flux may well be a viable catalyst.
> 
> I have come to learn, that water cooling at our level is not an exact science no matter how hard one may try-for water cooling to be an exact science, every single variable/piece of hardware etc would have to be 100% the same-the environment would also have to be a controlled one etc etc .............
Click to expand...

Thats load temp of the CPU,not the fluid temp,the loop doesnt get anywhere near that hot.
As i said,its just an indicator,nothing more. The process each one will go thru will be similar but not the same.


----------



## Mayhem

Our orange dyes do not , should not change colour as these are not red but actual orange. So you consumer should be fine how ever normal maintenance is normally recommended. If a user doesn't want to look after there system then id say get a all in one and forget a custom made loop. Apparently the Swiftech is a good one.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Our orange dyes do not , should not change colour as these are not red but actual orange. So you consumer should be fine how ever normal maintenance is normally recommended. If a user doesn't want to look after there system then id say get a all in one and forget a custom made loop. Apparently the Swiftech is a good one.


Not good advice Mayhem,I can just as easily use water and a ton of Nuke rather than your fluid and have 2 year gap between fluid changes easily
Your own advertising states it has a 2 year loop life,with copper tube the loop can easily live that long with no strip downs,blowing me off with a swiftech unit comment is poor tbh.
I just want use it and not have the colour drop out,making a loop with no maintenance isnt hard,finding a reliable fluid other than water is.

I can see you have no wish to help,good luck with your endeavors.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats load temp of the CPU,not the fluid temp,the loop doesnt get anywhere near that hot.
> As i said,its just an indicator,nothing more. The process each one will go thru will be similar but not the same.


Yes of course you are correct with regards to the temps-all i was trying to get across was the fact that unfortunately wc is not an exact science, and even a low temp of 40c + (loop temp in this case) could possibly contribute to flux degradation.

-that having been said, people like yourself and Mick, and some of us to a lesser extent (in our own little way) greatly contribute to wc progress, and i personally am grateful for that









It wasn't an attack on what you were saying-it was more of an addition-if you were able to read my comment in your thread about attacks etc before it was removed, you would see that i don't do such things- unless truly warranted









Anyway, i for one shall be following to see if you have any info with regards to the various rads you are testing-keep up the good work chaps


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kkorky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats load temp of the CPU,not the fluid temp,the loop doesnt get anywhere near that hot.
> As i said,its just an indicator,nothing more. The process each one will go thru will be similar but not the same.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes of course you are correct with regards to the temps-all i was trying to get across was the fact that unfortunately wc is not an exact science, and even a low temp of 40c + (loop temp in this case) could possibly contribute to flux degradation.
> 
> -that having been said, people like yourself and Mick, and some of us to a lesser extent (in our own little way) greatly contribute to wc progress, and i personally am grateful for that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It wasn't an attack on what you were saying-it was more of an addition-if you were able to read my comment in your thread about attacks etc before it was removed, you would see that i don't do such things- unless truly warranted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, i for one shall be following to see if you have any info with regards to the various rads you are testing-keep up the good work chaps
Click to expand...

Its fine kkhorky,we know each other,im not taking anything as an attack of any sort fella.
All i wanted was clear advice and some questions cleared up but Mayhems doesnt have answers.


----------



## Mayhem

@ Neg You got you answer, What more do you need. Orange doesn't change colour. Red were working on. Its actually that simple.



*More on Topic*

A batch of the new red was made up we are looking for some testers, If you would like some contact me Via PM, Im really looking for people that have purchased it in the past and noticed a colour change.














.


----------



## lemniscate

hi, I'm interested in starting to do water cooling for my rig. I read in page 1 that the mayhems dye would stain the water cooling system (which is natural, I know). but will the stain be permanent, or can I clean them? if I can, what should I use to clean the stains? thanks...


----------



## Mayhem

If using UV pink it will stain badly and is a nightmare to remove how ever it can be removed.









UV Yellow, Green, don't not stain as much and can easily be removed.

Blue, Red, Purple, Green, Yellow, Orange very rarely stain.

UV Clear Does not stain at all.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If using UV pink it will stain badly and is a nightmare to remove how ever it can be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UV Yellow, Green, don't not stain as much and can easily be removed.
> 
> Blue, Red, Purple, Green, Yellow, Orange very rarely stain.
> 
> UV Clear Does not stain at all.


I see, thanks so much.. I'm planning to use the blue (not interested in UV colors, since I wouldn't put lightings in my rig), and I'm going for a mild translucent blue color, so I wouldn't use too much dye there.

anyway, in the unlikely case that it does stain, how to clean the blocks/reservoir?


----------



## lemniscate

*double post*


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @ Neg You got you answer, What more do you need. Orange doesn't change colour. Red were working on. Its actually that simple.
> 
> *More on Topic*
> 
> A batch of the new red was made up we are looking for some testers, If you would like some contact me Via PM, Im really looking for people that have purchased it in the past and noticed a colour change.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Check PM.


----------



## Arock5504

Just got my ice white pre-mix yesterday. Loving it!


----------



## sourplumps

If I use Mayhems Pastel - UV White ( http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/mayhems_pastel_uv_white/ ) with Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing, can I expect staining or issues ? Note the tubing I am using is solid white, not clear, so if the staining is just internal and does not work its way out, then I could care less. I just want the colour and effect for my reservoir, as well as the anti-corrosion/biocide nature of the coolant.


----------



## jfarrar

ok mayhems group

started a new project called

BACK TO THE FUTURE !!!!

based on the delorean in the film

was wondering what mayhems colour would you choose for this rig and why what does the colour choice represent?
here are some pics








so what you think????????


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfarrar*
> 
> ok mayhems group
> 
> started a new project called
> 
> BACK TO THE FUTURE !!!!
> 
> based on the delorean in the film
> 
> was wondering what mayhems colour would you choose for this rig and why what does the colour choice represent?
> here are some pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so what you think????????


I love the elysium! If you want a neutral colour, go for a darker white/grey. You can also try Red, or a warm yellow. Depends what parts you get.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sourplumps*
> 
> If I use Mayhems Pastel - UV White ( http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/mayhems_pastel_uv_white/ ) with Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing, can I expect staining or issues ? Note the tubing I am using is solid white, not clear, so if the staining is just internal and does not work its way out, then I could care less. I just want the colour and effect for my reservoir, as well as the anti-corrosion/biocide nature of the coolant.


It should never stain that product and if it does ill give you £100 out my own pocket. The reason why is doesn't contain any dye what so ever.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfarrar*
> 
> ok mayhems group
> 
> started a new project called
> 
> BACK TO THE FUTURE !!!!
> 
> based on the delorean in the film
> 
> was wondering what mayhems colour would you choose for this rig and why what does the colour choice represent?
> here are some pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so what you think????????


Id go grey defo.


----------



## Pavo

Well if you are going for the DeLorean look you obviously need a Flux Capacitor which is blue electricity going in a peace sign type of design.

So a blue fluid to represent the "electricity".

Probably need to make or talk to FrozenQ about making a reservoir which will look like the flux capacitor, which looks pretty easy to make in a way.

Might be costly, but you cannot possibly forget about the Flux Capacitor?!?

This has some great possibilities.


----------



## Pavo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Id go grey defo.


Man you guys are forgetting the Flux Capacitor, so Blue to represent the electricity for the fuel!


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> A warning to any one using a new system or second hand system.
> 
> Flush your new / second hand system correctly. Don't think just because its new it is clean, because it is not. Wash it out with bicarbonate of soda then wash of with any type of pure water.
> 
> If you don't and you are using Pastel Red it will change colour in your system if it is too acidic. This is not the fault of the liquid this is the fault of the user not preparing there system correctly.
> 
> Like any thing in life look after it and it will look after you.


*Mayhem* are you saying to flush my radiators with baking soda?

Been gone for two weeks and looking forward to flushing my radiators, I have noticed that *ALL* distilled water is showing very little green, but mostly yellow on the test strips included with my Mayhem's Biocide Extreme!

So how can I add the Biocide Extreme if my PH is (4.5) already acidic? If I were to add it I would be at about #1 for PH levels!I have been sampling distilled water from every conceivable place that sells distilled water, you name it I been that and tried it!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @ Neg You got you answer, What more do you need. Orange doesn't change colour. Red were working on. Its actually that simple.
> 
> *More on Topic*
> 
> A batch of the new red was made up we are looking for some testers, If you would like some contact me Via PM, Im really looking for people that have purchased it in the past and noticed a colour change.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I'd love to test it as I bought Mayhems Deep Red dye and it changed color (To something like brownish almost transparent as if dye was dissapearing slowly) in matter of 2 weeks....


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @ Neg You got you answer, What more do you need. Orange doesn't change colour. Red were working on. Its actually that simple.
> 
> *More on Topic*
> 
> A batch of the new red was made up we are looking for some testers, If you would like some contact me Via PM, Im really looking for people that have purchased it in the past and noticed a colour change.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


PM sent.


----------



## Systemlord

How does one increase their PH level closer to PH 6 since mine is on the low (yellow) side of the color wheel?


----------



## Mayhem

@Systemlord - Bi Carb should do the trick

My PM box is filling , ill get back to every one later on today as we've very bissy today.

MIck


----------



## Systemlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Systemlord - Bi Carb should do the trick
> 
> My PM box is filling , ill get back to every one later on today as we've very bissy today.
> 
> MIck


Sorry I know that your bussy, but what form (powder or a liquid) of Bicarbonate should I mix with my distilled water? Also at what volume is to be added to distilled water?

Much appreciated!


----------



## Wookieelover

Not sure how much others used, but i put two tea spoons of bi-carb powder to one litre of water. Then I rinsed out all my rads with it before putting it all together.
I did wash all the rads with hot tap water before hand to remove any loose bits inside.

Then filled system with demineralised water and XT-1 Oil Black. Which has biocide and anti corrosion in it.

Over a month and system looks brand new still.
Primochill Advanced LRT Blood Red tubing used.


----------



## Wookieelover

Damn phone.
Double post.
Sorry.


----------



## TheNovice

Hi all....

Just changed fluids from EK clear to Mayhems Pastel Chocolate Brown.

Initial tests show that temps are 5-8 deg. lower with the new fluid.
Is this a coinsidence (me bleeding the system better than I normally do) or are there really that much of a difference to fluids and the way they transfer heat?

On another note...
I am a bit dissapoited with the color of the Chokolate Brown.
I was hoping it was much darker and richer in color.
I would not call it brown - it's more like a deep pink/brownish skin tone.
Can i make it look like very dark chocolate somehow?

\M


----------



## Mayhem

@TheNovice We stopped making brown a while ago (over 1 year ago) as we were not happy with its colour and it didn't look as expected.

@Wookieelover we used 1 table spoon per ltr approx, Hot water does make Bi carb work much better.


----------



## Stickeelion

Activate noob mode: I'm looking to get a shade between red and dark red, is it fine to mix those two dyes?

EDIT: If I mix Clear UV Coolant with red dye will it still glow blue?


----------



## kibin216

Please let me know email address.

"You have reached your daily allotment of 2 private messages per day. Note that multiple recipients of the same message each count toward your limit."

I dont know for this forum rule.

Please contact me [email protected]

Sorry guys.


----------



## Mayhem

Ill just leave this here for fun




Yes the music is cheesy but its meant to be ....


----------



## TheNovice

I know - I probably got the left over stock 
Can I change the color somehow - make it darker?


----------



## Pavo

Mr Mayhem have you ever used a t-virus res with your aurora fluid?

Let's say I use the silver Aurora fluid, will it totally cover the helix colors in the t-virus or will the colors kinda give the effect of making the fluid "glow" from within.

Very interested in how this would work as I might use it if it doesn't totally cover the lights from the helix inside the frozenq reservoirs.

Thanks


----------



## Mayhem

Im sorry we were supposed to be sent a sample a long time ago how ever they never bothered so it never got tested,

Updated under UV light vid


----------



## nighthawk-73

so is there a list of the best to worst hose., i'm about to do a project and want to make sure i am using the bet hose


----------



## Mast3rRoot

Hello guys!
I have myself a custom water cooling loop, and I would love to make it look Awesome!
I love the color green, so I am looking at buying the Mayhems Pastel in Green.
Here is a picture of my current setup:


So, I have a few questions about Mayhems. So, I have a few questions.

Part 1: Tubing
I need to retire my current tubing, it has gotten foggy, and just needs to go because i have moved my rad and other stuff around, and is stretching it in some places. I do have some clear XSPC tubing that will reach everything if i were to go with that. So, now to the question, Which tubing brands work, and what ones don't? I really like the look of Primochill, and they sell it at work(Micro Center). But i may have seen somewhere that Primochill doesn't work. Whats the correct answer? I would love to use Primochill, but my have my XSPC stuff to fall back on if I can't.

Second part of Tubing question: Should I use clear tubing or Green Tubing? I currently have green tubing with green water coolant, but I suppose if my coolant was green, it really wouldn't matter if my tubing was Clear. Which do you think is a better setup?

Part 2: is Mayhems bad for Water Blocks, or are they not?

I have heard in the past that dyes and certain concentrates are bad for water blocks, as they clog them up. I have heard that Mayhems doesn't clog waterblocks, though the whole idea of using dyes still brings back that idea that it is bad for water blocks. Why is Mayhems Pastel not bad for water blocks?

That is basically my questions, I am just trying to be cautious about jumping into the concentrate/dye area. I also would like to know what your guys' opinion on what would look good.

Thanks for all the Help!

Mast3rRoot


----------



## Mayhem

1) Get either primochill Advance LRT , Tygon E1000 or Tygon Duralean, they are the best types of tubing.

2) Mayhems is not bad for water blocks if you system is flushed out correctly and looked after.

Green should not stain you system at all. Hope this helps.


----------



## bakteria

I've been running pastel red for a couple of months and have noticed that it stains my res.
Before I filled my system I flushed the system with distilled water.


----------



## voldomazta

So let's say I've set up an elaborate drain system that drained the whole PC in one go then saved all of the mixed coolant on a plastic bottle. Will it still be good to be reused? I'm thinking about this because the PC might be going places at some point will be taking it to the plane (cargo) so it has to be drained.

Like what I mean to say is do I have to do something special to the plastic container so that the coolant saved inside it will retain its characteristics or something?


----------



## Mayhem

Yes you can drain it and re use it no problems.


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Im sorry we were supposed to be sent a sample a long time ago how ever they never bothered so it never got tested,
> 
> Updated under UV light vid


That looks awesome!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bakteria*
> 
> I've been running pastel red for a couple of months and have noticed that it stains my res.
> Before I filled my system I flushed the system with distilled water.


Next time you drain your loop, just check to see if it is staining or solids that have formed on the res's surface.

If it wipes off with just your fingers or paper towel it isn't stained. But if you can't wipe it off try to email Mayhems directly.

P.s. That is one nice photo


----------



## _REAPER_

I agree with the above statement that is one heck of a red


----------



## dark_fighter

A couple of questions about X1 uv red...
Does the X1 uv red stains? Does it contain uv pink? The uv effect is red or pink?


----------



## bakteria

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Next time you drain your loop, just check to see if it is staining or solids that have formed on the res's surface.
> 
> If it wipes off with just your fingers or paper towel it isn't stained. But if you can't wipe it off try to email Mayhems directly.
> 
> P.s. That is one nice photo


I could just wipe it off and there were no solids inside the res.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I agree with the above statement that is one heck of a red


Im not 100% happy with the color, I would describe it as "light milky raspberry red".
You really don't see it in this picture.
I'd like the red to be a bit more intensive.


----------



## silent54

Just received a couple of Pastel bottles today (Gig Orange and Pure Black) to test and see what would look best in my loop. Plus seeing how the stuff reacts to the Masterkleer UV Orange tubing before putting it in my system. Unfortunately, I can't use the Primochill Advanced LRT without changing every fitting I have. The closest is 3/8ID 5/8OD. I have 1/2OD fittings. I have Tygon E1000 if the Masterkleer has plasticizer problems. Just want to see if I can get the glow without the problems first.

Two questions. First related to loop volume: My loop consists of 1 x 360 rad; 1 x 240 red, 250mm res; 2 x pumps; 1 x cpu block; 2 x gpu blocks; plus about 7ft of tubing. Understand one Pastel bottle creates 1lt but was wonder if someone could give me an estimate on how many liters I would need to fill this loop. Using distilled water right now and just added until full. So, I didn't keep track on how much I put in. Thanks.

Second: I was reading through posts and thought I saw something about heat as one of the causes of plasticizer. If that is correct, what temps are we talking about? I don't really over load my system, which I believe and average water temp pushes upper 30's - low 40's maybe when gaming.

Thanks


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silent54*
> 
> Just received a couple of Pastel bottles today (Gig Orange and Pure Black) to test and see what would look best in my loop. Plus seeing how the stuff reacts to the Masterkleer UV Orange tubing before putting it in my system. Unfortunately, I can't use the Primochill Advanced LRT without changing every fitting I have. The closest is 3/8ID 5/8OD. I have 1/2OD fittings. I have Tygon E1000 if the Masterkleer has plasticizer problems. Just want to see if I can get the glow without the problems first.
> 
> Two questions. First related to loop volume: My loop consists of 1 x 360 rad; 1 x 240 red, 250mm res; 2 x pumps; 1 x cpu block; 2 x gpu blocks; plus about 7ft of tubing. Understand one Pastel bottle creates 1lt but was wonder if someone could give me an estimate on how many liters I would need to fill this loop. Using distilled water right now and just added until full. So, I didn't keep track on how much I put in. Thanks.
> 
> Second: I was reading through posts and thought I saw something about heat as one of the causes of plasticizer. If that is correct, what temps are we talking about? I don't really over load my system, which I believe and average water temp pushes upper 30's - low 40's maybe when gaming.
> 
> Thanks


I am interested in the TEMP questions as well


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silent54*
> 
> Just received a couple of Pastel bottles today (Gig Orange and Pure Black) to test and see what would look best in my loop. Plus seeing how the stuff reacts to the Masterkleer UV Orange tubing before putting it in my system. Unfortunately, I can't use the Primochill Advanced LRT without changing every fitting I have. The closest is 3/8ID 5/8OD. I have 1/2OD fittings. I have Tygon E1000 if the Masterkleer has plasticizer problems. Just want to see if I can get the glow without the problems first.
> 
> Two questions. First related to loop volume: My loop consists of 1 x 360 rad; 1 x 240 red, 250mm res; 2 x pumps; 1 x cpu block; 2 x gpu blocks; plus about 7ft of tubing. Understand one Pastel bottle creates 1lt but was wonder if someone could give me an estimate on how many liters I would need to fill this loop. Using distilled water right now and just added until full. So, I didn't keep track on how much I put in. Thanks.
> 
> Second: I was reading through posts and thought I saw something about heat as one of the causes of plasticizer. If that is correct, what temps are we talking about? I don't really over load my system, which I believe and average water temp pushes upper 30's - low 40's maybe when gaming.
> 
> Thanks


I used ~750mL in my loop (1x 360 Rad, CPU block, RP452x2 and ~2m of tubing)


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silent54*
> 
> First related to loop volume: My loop consists of 1 x 360 rad; 1 x 240 red, 250mm res; 2 x pumps; 1 x cpu block; 2 x gpu blocks; plus about 7ft of tubing. Understand one Pastel bottle creates 1lt but was wonder if someone could give me an estimate on how many liters I would need to fill this loop. Using distilled water right now and just added until full. So, I didn't keep track on how much I put in. Thanks.


It also depends on your radiators thickness but here's an example

My current loop in the "New Beginning" rig is : 2 XSPC RX360, 1 250mm reservoir, 1 D5 pump, 1 CPU block, 2 GPU blocks and about 7 to 8 feets of tubings 1/2"ID X 3/4"OD

The radiators are 63mm thick

And I have put aprrox. 1.5 liters of coolant in this loop

I hope it helps


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark_fighter*
> 
> A couple of questions about X1 uv red...
> Does the X1 uv red stains? Does it contain uv pink? The uv effect is red or pink?


Yes it does

@silent54 Plastersizer start leaching at 38c + badly at 45c+ But will leach before that over a long period of time.

@bakteria you all ways welcome to make you own colour







.


----------



## _REAPER_

Do you have any idea how well your Fluid will work with the below res


----------



## Mayhem

are you being serious. it looks like any other res out there ...


----------



## silent54

Thanks Mayhem. Have a felling I'll end up using the Tygon anyways. The Masterkleer UV Orange is crap in color. Almost like using a pinkish peach color tubing. My HAF X would probably run away if it saw me coming with this stuff.

Thanks for the volume recommendations guys. I didn't believe it would have taken any more than 2-3.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Do you have any idea how well your Fluid will work with the below res


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> are you being serious. it looks like any other res out there ...


He's asking this because this is the Aqualis series from Aquacomputer and one of the feature of this reservoir is the possibility to create a fountain effect when you connect the return line on the top.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> He's asking this because this is the Aqualis series from Aquacomputer and one of the feature of this reservoir is the possibility to create a fountain effect when you connect the return line on the top.


You have to connect it in the middle inlet for the fountain to work, and the reason I am asking is because it is not the same as other res.


----------



## dark_fighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes it does
> 
> @silent54 Plastersizer start leaching at 38c + badly at 45c+ But will leach before that over a long period of time.
> 
> @bakteria you all ways welcome to make you own colour
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


What "yes it does"? Stains? Contains uv pink? be more specific please.


----------



## TeamBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> You have to connect it in the middle inlet for the fountain to work, and the reason I am asking is because it is not the same as other res.


I'm curious. What is your specific concern? As long as it seals, shouldn't it hold fluid, regardless of color?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark_fighter*
> 
> What "yes it does"? Stains? Contains uv pink? be more specific please.


Does it stain? Yes, Does it contain UV Pink? Yes, does it Look UV Pink under UV light? Yes...


----------



## dark_fighter

Thanks


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeamBlue*
> 
> I'm curious. What is your specific concern? As long as it seals, shouldn't it hold fluid, regardless of color?


Wanting to really know if the fliuid will cause issued coming out the top part of the res for the fountain effect. IT does not just flow it has I think 9 small holes for the fluid to go thorugh


----------



## Mayhem

@_REAPER_ Mayhems does not buy every single peace of water cooling equipment on this planet. It is up to you the user to let others know if it works or not. There are now 4 people working full time on Mayhems and all 4 of us are overloaded with work as it is. I m sure if there was a issue some one would have said by now as people are very quick to pull down a company and place blame if some thing does not work. As far as i can see there will be no issue as common sense dictates if there is no filter then there should be no issue.


----------



## dark_fighter

Just ordered mayhem's red dye again, hope this time will keep the color and won't fade after 2-3 weeks...


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @_REAPER_ Mayhems does not buy every single peace of water cooling equipment on this planet. It is up to you the user to let others know if it works or not. There are now 4 people working full time on Mayhems and all 4 of us are overloaded with work as it is. I m sure if there was a issue some one would have said by now as people are very quick to pull down a company and place blame if some thing does not work. As far as i can see there will be no issue as common sense dictates if there is no filter then there should be no issue.


I would not ever blame you if it did not work, it would just mean I need to go back to DI Water only, just trying to do my due allegiance prior to going home on RR. 109 days until I leave Afghanistan not that I am counting lol


----------



## TheNovice

Can i use Mayhems Black dye to make my "Pastel Chocolate Brown" - more Brown?
It is actually looking more skin/pink at the moment.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Epic system, should have had a Sabertooth in there though


----------



## TheNovice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Epic system, should have had a Sabertooth in there though


Thank you for the nice comment!








It's next on the list!


----------



## Mayhem

Brown was a single colour so adjusting it isn't that easy. You could try red to increase its darkness how ever, i don't know if it will work. If you would like fire me a PM (this message and name and address) and i will send you out free of charge this colour so you can test it that way you not wasting you money.

Mick


----------



## TheNovice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Brown was a single colour so adjusting it isn't that easy. You could try red to increase its darkness how ever, i don't know if it will work. If you would like fire me a PM (this message and name and address) and i will send you out free of charge this colour so you can test it that way you not wasting you money.
> 
> Mick


Hi Mick,

Thanks a million - that is excellent customer service....
PM sent

\\M


----------



## ginger_nuts

Has anyone made a copper colored mix yet?


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Make a brown and put some yellow/orange in.


----------



## Lutfij

The novice - got a link to that build(log)?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Has anyone made a copper colored mix yet?


No but im working on one for a customer build,I will let you know how it goes and how to make it.


----------



## Mayhem

Orange on it own gives you a copper mix (not with pastel). if you add more its looks like lucozade. If you what it lighter add yellow. You can add a drop of normal red in to darken it off or tan it.


----------



## TheNovice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> The novice - got a link to that build(log)?


Nopes... Unfortunately not.....








But more pics here though: http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/39660
Page 3967

\\ M


----------



## Scorpion49

Just a little update, I think I've got my green almost where I want it.

I have 1.5L of water, 1 bottle of pastel mint green, 12 drops of emerald green and 30 drops of dark blue into it.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Looking good Scorpion


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Looking good Scorpion


It does look really good can you take a pic from further back if you dont mind


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> It does look really good can you take a pic from further back if you dont mind


Sure, I had them taken already I justr picked some that showed the color well.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I would call it Jade Visions









Stunning


----------



## voldomazta

In this video, it's said I need to use deionized water. However I can't find any or it's very hard to find in my area. There is an abundance, however, of distilled water. Will that be fine to use insted of deionized?


----------



## Fantomau

I heard that the new pastel colors (Some of them) change colors over time, like someone told me their white turned blackish and red turned pink/purple or something and that mayhems is working on a new pastel.

Is this true? I dont wanna put red pastel in my system and it turn to a different color.


----------



## akira749

deleted...


----------



## dark_fighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> They are both equivalent!


No they are not!! you need both distiled and deionized water. The best in my opinion is to use WFI (water for injection). you can find it in any drug store and it is quite cheap. (once i had a leak from my cpu block and the fluid was dropping on my vga, nothing happened, so you should defintenly go for it)


----------



## voldomazta

water for injection is that d5/d10 water?


----------



## akira749

deleted...


----------



## kkorky

I'm about to start work on a new loop using a Gunmetal grey case,

Mobo has a bit of blue on it, but i dont want to use blue pastel again









I have already spoken to Mick about a colour scheme i have in mind, but, i thought that i'd throw it out there to you guys, you never know what feedback i might get









Any suggestions on coolant colour-ie dye or pastel (ill be using clear tubing), silver fittings, all of the hardware will be black.

Thanks in advance people


----------



## PCModderMike

Playing with some Mayhems dark blue.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Looks stellar Mike, nice colors


----------



## PCModderMike

Thanks Blade


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Thanks Blade


You'd make the Finnish people (Alatar) proud












E:

Also resembles "Delfts Blauw" which is a form of art from the city my uni is in


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> water for injection is that d5/d10 water?


No its just water that is used to administer intravenous drugs(WFI=water for injections)-its is very pure, even purer than distilled water which has trace minerals/metals in it-however small the amount.

WFI though, should not be confused with Saline solutions which are similar in that they are also administered intravenously, but are not pure water-they have salts etc in them.

Pic of WFI below (i have used it before, but now i just stick to Mayhems pastel's and coolants.)


----------



## Fieel

So, i just tried the clear blue coolant.. and MAN, it is absolutely clear. Transparent at all, and only lights aquamarine/weak blue when pointed with some UV light, is it how it is supposed to work? lol

I thought it was some kind of blue without any UV light too.


----------



## Mayhem

UV clear blue is just that is clear under normal light and light blue under UV light. You need to have good CCFL's or UV light for it to show strong.


----------



## Arock5504

Tygon e1000 turning green... Will be trying primo this summer


----------



## Arock5504

Tygon e1000 turning green... Will be trying primo this summer


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arock5504*
> 
> 
> 
> Tygon e1000 turning green... Will be trying primo this summer


To be clear: You use Ice White Pastel with Tygon e1000? An the tubes get green?


----------



## Arock5504

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> To be clear: You use Ice White Pastel with Tygon e1000? An the tubes get green?


That is correct, sorry for the abrupt post... was posting from my phone. Ice White and E-1000 super flexi Tygons. Happened gradually over 2 weeks... I noticed a little green at first but thought it could have been lighting. So for me my e-1000 failed the test, I put a couple tube samples in with the leftover premix a week ago to see what happens.

EDIT: Also like in the pictures, the coolant stays beautiful and milky white, no discoloration, but the tubing is reacting to something.

I posted on the forum a couple of weeks back after the build was done.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/1710#post_19477811

so you can compare colors and time...


----------



## voldomazta

Watched this vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyezjUb76lY

And followed it to the dot. Even got the same vortex lamp, only problem is i'm getting a pinkish hue. I only added 2 drops of blue, do you think it may have been too much? Or too little?


----------



## Mayhem

@McDoney we didn't get that reaction







which is definitely different. Lost for words now.


----------



## h2on0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Dangit! That New Orange is just would i need, looks Awesome!.. The Gigabyte Orange I bought last Month Fails in Comparison..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still Orange but NOT THAT ORANGE..


I recently purchased Mayhem's Gigabyte Orange not realizing there was a better flavor of orange available. I have already tried the blue berry(I like it) What would I have to add to the gigabyte orange to make it pop like the new pastel orange?


----------



## Mayhem

Just add red dye but it looks fine the way it is.


----------



## McDoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @McDoney we didn't get that reaction
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which is definitely different. Lost for words now.


Well recently 2 Lirtes Pastel Ice White arrived ..... and a new Batch of Primo Advanced LRT. Had to beg my girlflriend to order and to promise i wont have any problems with this combination. She will kill me if my tubes go green


----------



## Mast3rRoot

I just ordered some Pastel Green! I will keep you guys updated with pictures when I get it all set up!







Do you think one bottle will be enough for one loop?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mast3rRoot*
> 
> I just ordered some Pastel Green! I will keep you guys updated with pictures when I get it all set up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think one bottle will be enough for one loop?


Can you list what you have in your loop?


----------



## Mast3rRoot

I have a swiftech micro res, a XSPC rasa water block, a 240mm Rad, and a 120mm Rad.







Thanks for the help!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mast3rRoot*
> 
> I have a swiftech micro res, a XSPC rasa water block, a 240mm Rad, and a 120mm Rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help!


You'll be fine with one bottle.









The concentrate bottle create a 1 liter quantity and you won't even need the full liter I think


----------



## Mast3rRoot

Alright!







I was hoping that I could fit 1 liter max in there.







Cause Xoxide only had one bottle left, and they are the only ones that dont charge a ridiculous $7 for shipping.







Thanks!


----------



## friskiest

Been running Tygon 2475 + Pastel White for a while now, not having any issues at all


----------



## Arock5504

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Been running Tygon 2475 + Pastel White for a while now, not having any issues at all


How long is a while? LOOKING GOOD BTW!


----------



## Arock5504

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDoney*
> 
> Well recently 2 Lirtes Pastel Ice White arrived ..... and a new Batch of Primo Advanced LRT. Had to beg my girlflriend to order and to promise i wont have any problems with this combination. She will kill me if my tubes go green


LOL, keep us posted. I will be buying a batch in the summer. Do we know of any other tubing that is compatible and plasticizer free?


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mast3rRoot*
> 
> I have a swiftech micro res, a XSPC rasa water block, a 240mm Rad, and a 120mm Rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help!


My wife's rig has basically the same setup (slightly larger reservoir & GPU Block) and 1 ltr of Mayhems' pastel was enough


----------



## Kenjiwing

Was going to buy some of this but wanted to run it by you guys first.

My loop

2 GPUs
1 cpu
board block
mosfet block
480 rad
pump

I want to buy primo advanced lrt clear and the white pastel

Here are my questions..

Will this tubing work with the coolant?
How much coolant will I need?
So you buy the 250ml then you mix it with 750ml of distilled water to make 1l?

Thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Was going to buy some of this but wanted to run it by you guys first.
> 
> My loop
> 
> 2 GPUs
> 1 cpu
> board block
> mosfet block
> 480 rad
> pump
> 
> I want to buy primo advanced lrt clear and the white pastel
> 
> Here are my questions..
> 
> Will this tubing work with the coolant?
> How much coolant will I need?
> So you buy the 250ml then you mix it with 750ml of distilled water to make 1l?
> 
> Thanks


Advance LRT should be fine

Yes you mix the 250ml concentrate with 750ml of distilled water

To answer the "how much" can you tell me what reservoir you'll be using?


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Advance LRT should be fine
> 
> Yes you mix the 250ml concentrate with 750ml of distilled water
> 
> To answer the "how much" can you tell me what reservoir you'll be using?




my loop

using a iandh 250 stealth res


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> 
> 
> my loop
> 
> using a iandh 250 stealth res


I think you will be okay with one bottle of concentrate

A 60mm thick 480mm radiator (the GTX is 54mm) takes about 500ml and your reservoir should take around 300ml...

You're left with 200ml for the blocks and the tubing...the blocks don't take a lot of liquid and your loop design suggest that you won't be using 10 feets of tubing...so it might be enough...but I can't make any promises.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> 
> 
> my loop
> 
> using a iandh 250 stealth res


I think you will be just slightly over the one liter mark, not by much, but over.

My sig setup below, My Current Project, I have used approx 750-850mml.

But all them blocks on a 480mm rad, even a GTX480, it will struggle IMO under load.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I think you will be just slightly over the one liter mark, not by much, but over.
> 
> My sig setup below, My Current Project, I have used approx 750-850mml.
> 
> But all them blocks on a 480mm rad, even a GTX480, it will struggle IMO under load.


Well I can always just use a little more water and see what happens right?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Yes, I believe you can.

Or

Even just run with the res. not 100% full, until you get more


----------



## Chickensoup23

Hey Mayhems,

After a couple months of purely distilled water I ordered some pastel blue berry & some deep blue, as I have been convinced that with proper care, nothing will clogg. I put my faith in Mayhems! Now I still have my silver coil, can I ditch it for now as I'll be using pastel dyes (which I believe have biocides in them), or can I keep it?

Thanks,
Chicken


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chickensoup23*
> 
> Hey Mayhems,
> 
> After a couple months of purely distilled water I ordered some pastel blue berry & some deep blue, as I have been convinced that with proper care, nothing will clogg. I put my faith in Mayhems! Now I still have my silver coil, can I ditch it for now as I'll be using pastel dyes (which I believe have biocides in them), or can I keep it?
> 
> Thanks,
> Chicken


You can take it out, no need for it.


----------



## Chickensoup23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> You can take it out, no need for it.


That's beyond sick. I have high hopes for this!


----------



## Goose194

Running Pastel Red.
Turned out amazing.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Just for Fun...Mayhems Red and Milk.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Just for Fun...Mayhems Red and Milk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love that!


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Just for Fun...Mayhems Red and Milk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*


All Time Favorite Shot....


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Just for Fun...Mayhems Red and Milk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now that looks cool.


----------



## Systemlord

Hey Mayham, I had to use baking soda to raise my pH level to about green which would be about right in middle were neutral is after adding two drops of Mayham's extreme biocide.

Will the baking soda in my loop cause any problems with my nickel plated components? I added a little less than a teaspoon for my entire loop.


----------



## silent54

Question: I just switched from distilled to Mayhem Pastel Gig Orange. Everything looks good so far but have one question at the moment. I have a 250mm res and there's a milky looking film that has developed on the upper portion of my res. The res isn't totally filled and didn't plan on fully filling it. I understand condensation can buildup as it did when I used just distilled water but the milky film is kind of irritating. Plus, there a ring that has formed. Not sure if there's a remedy for something like this. I can deal with condensation but the same remedy doesn't work with the pastel coolant.



Also not related to Mayhem colors. I'm using two MCP 655 w/ speed control in tandem. I'm currently pushing 4 liters per minute or so the flow meter says. Is there a norm for lpms? Just trying to gauge whether I should slow them down a little. At idle I hit somewhere around 24-26c and really never seen temps above 36c under stress.


----------



## Mayhem

@Systemlord we have had residue of baking soda in one of our loops for a while now and not see any issue. How ever we haven't checked any plated blocks in the system for a while neither.

@silent54 Chances are the ring is nano practicals stuck to the res. It should just wipe off but it is pointless wiping it off as it will just come back.

@Every one else ..

As of Tomorrow ill be on my hols till the 6th April 2013 So if you need any questions answering urgently please email our "support @ mayhems dot co dot uk" and they will help you the best they can. Or other users will help as much as they can on here as they are very knowledgeable.

Mick


----------



## _REAPER_

Enjoy your holiday.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Yeah, enjoy your holiday Mick


----------



## silent54

@Mayhem - Thanks Mayhem. As much as I like the Pastel coolant, it's a little too on the peachy side for me. Is there any way to darken the color a little? Possibly adding red or deep red dye?


----------



## Mayhem

@silent54 you can add any colours (dyes) you like. red some times is a bit hit and miss but if you would like a dark red we are looking at a new dye that's under test at the moment. Ill be sending some samples out to users when i get back from my hols.


----------



## dr/owned

I have 2 questions:

Is X1 the same as XSPC/Thermochill EC6? The verbage is very similar in the product descriptions as is the "made in UK" bit. Would the 2 be compatible if mixed?

What's the shelf life of the concentrate and the concentrate when diluted? Can I make up a 4L batch and store it for a year?


----------



## silent54

@Mayhem: I'm not looking for a red color. Just would like to make the Pastel Gig Orange more orange if possible.


----------



## akira749

@Silent54 : I think this should help you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h2on0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Dangit! That New Orange is just would i need, looks Awesome!.. The Gigabyte Orange I bought last Month Fails in Comparison..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still Orange but NOT THAT ORANGE..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently purchased Mayhem's Gigabyte Orange not realizing there was a better flavor of orange available. I have already tried the blue berry(I like it) What would I have to add to the gigabyte orange to make it pop like the new pastel orange?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just add red dye.


----------



## silent54

Thanks akira. That helps. I'll give that a shot with the Pastel Gig in my vortex lamp to see how it looks.


----------



## Klavins

*Mixture of UV Green and Blue Mayhems about to go into this system (Nuclear Poison)!*

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/img2184t.jpg/


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Will look very toxic









I like to see what creative people do with mixing colors. I have a couple of ideas as well, but no loop to try it out in


----------



## MillerModPCs

Pastel Blue Berry in my client build I just did. Absolutely love it
Full video log here
http://m.youtube.com/user/Famoussasdrummer182


----------



## SmokeyMcBong

Just wanted to give a big thank's for all the hard work mate!

Absolutely loving the Mayhem's Pastel - Blueberry Blue !









few snap's (sorry for the quality of the photo's)...


Spoiler: Click for Pics ( re-posted pics ).....











Thinking of building up a semi-cheap secondary folding rig soon, definitely putting it under water. Just need to decide on the next color scheme









Thank's again mate


----------



## Gomi

X1 - UV Emerald Green.

This stuff is amazing - I seen some good UV dyes in the past, but this one just seems to have such a punch.

Sorry for the low-res picture - Build is in progress (Finishing up wire managment as I am typing this), will have some proper DLS pictures tomorrow evening


----------



## dark_fighter

You can add clear blue uv in the mix, it won't change the color of the pastel under normal light, although you should have in mind that you may need quite enough to achieve the uv effect with pastel, but a bottle should do








here is a video with sky blue uv coolant making procedure:


----------



## Noskcaj

does red pastel (or any mayhems dye/coolant) work in a Volenti cooler?


----------



## silent54

I know Mayhem is on the road sort of speaking but needs some assistance. I recently switched over from distilled water to Pastel Gigabit Orange. Prior to putting the coolant in, I did flush my system several times. The lighting in my case isn't all that great right now as it was setup for my prior config with only UV lighting. So, I went to redo my lighting in the case and found I now have Gigabit Brown.







I know that has something to do with ph levels but have never being in this situation. What do I need to get or do to resolve this before replacing the coolant? Thanks


----------



## KaGB

Possible some PC owners who use Frozenq's Liquid Fusion reservoir and Mayhem's dys could give me some insight.

I was wondering if there would be any issues viewing the Double helix from the reservoir with using certain colors of pastel and/or dyes?

For instance Pastel White, (I am assuming) would most likely obstruct the viewing of the double helixs.


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaGB*
> 
> Possible some PC owners who use Frozenq's Liquid Fusion reservoir and Mayhem's dys could give me some insight.
> 
> I was wondering if there would be any issues viewing the Double helix from the reservoir with using certain colors of pastel and/or dyes?
> 
> For instance Pastel White, (I am assuming) would most likely obstruct the viewing of the double helixs.


.
i believe any pastel will hide the helix, as for dyed water i think the helix will still be visible


----------



## Rakin

Finally was able to achieve the Blood Red color I was looking for.








Hopefully this time it was stay like this.


----------



## vaporizer

Mayhem's Blue w/ XT-1.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I just got some "Deep Red" dye in today for one of the systems I'm reworking, [Build Log] The Switched Switch (A Reverse ATX Switch 810).

Tomorrow I will start hooking the system up for real, but I just couldn't wait to see how red the "Deep Red" is. I wasn't disappointed. Thanks Mayhem!


----------



## handi420

Ok so I have a couple questions.

Just finished my build and put aurora with some ocean blue dye in it.. i know i know not for complex loops.. but it was rly cool looking and i had to try it. Needless to say, after a day of use, its disipated to about 1/2 of what it started out as.


^Freshly filled

I'll try and get another pic up to show how it is now.

If i did the math right the system has about 2200mil of liquid, not sure if that matters or not but..

Back to my questions.
1: Any suggestions on how to clean it out of the loop, or can i just run water and vinegar through it? Really dont want to take it all apart and clean it :/
2: Will the Pastel range do this same sort of thing in a complex loop?(loose its milkyness over time)
3: any idea on how to get a copper looking pastel color?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *handi420*
> 
> 2: Will the Pastel range do this same sort of thing in a complex loop?(loose its milkyness over time)


I've been running the new formula of Pastel Orange since it's release (slightly over 2 months now) and I must say that the orange looks just as good as the day that I put it into my system. The rig that the Pastel is in runs 24/7 too. It's in a loop that has a Monsta 360, RX360, dual bay, dual pump, dual video card blocks and CPU block, so it should be similar to your current set up.


----------



## handi420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I've been running the new formula of Pastel Orange since it's release (slightly over 2 months now) and I must say that the orange looks just as good as the day that I put it into my system. The rig that the Pastel is in runs 24/7 too. It's in a loop that has a Monsta 360, RX360, dual bay, dual pump, dual video card blocks and CPU block, so it should be similar to your current set up.


Cool, good to hear

^After about a day and 1/2


----------



## silent54

Question about the pastels and pH levels. In an earlier post, I stated my Pastel Gigabit Orange changed to brown after about 2ish weeks. I ran distilled water only for the previous year and just figured I didn't clean my loop well enough back then and just before I added the Pastel Gig Orange. I spent the last 7ish hour cleaning, rinsing, and flushing my loop and components with distilled water and bicarb. Just before I drained my loop for the last time, the pH level was at 7, which I assume is where it needs to be.

I mixed a new batch of Pastel Gig Orange adding some Mayhem red dye to slightly darken it. Nothing else was added to the coolant. Prior to adding it to the loop, I tested the pH level of the coolant I had just mixed and found it to be at about 8.2 - 8.4. Not knowing the pH level of the coolant, I'm wondering if this is normal? The newly mixed coolant had the same pH level as the color changed Gig Orange that was in my loop prior to cleaning. I feel I'm heading towards the new Pastel Gig Orange changing again.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

First time Mayhems user here. I ordered 2 bottles of Patel Mint Green which arrived today. I opened them side by side and it looked like they were 2 different shades of green. So I poured some in a couple of clear cups and these are the results.. Bottle one is marked with the blue tape since I could not find my sharpie.





One is more darker then the other I have not added any distilled water to this yet and I am wondering when I start to mix this in, will gap between the 2 shades close a bit? I bought 2 bottles because my loops is around 1.2L but I decided to buy a bigger res and now I expect it to be closer to 1.4L I am not sure which bottle I want to start with. In that 1st pic with one of my green cables, that colour is more yellow green in the room where i have my computer because that room has lots of natural light.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> First time Mayhems user here. I ordered 2 bottles of Patel Mint Green which arrived today. I opened them side by side and it looked like they were 2 different shades of green. So I poured some in a couple of clear cups and these are the results.. Bottle one is marked with the blue tape since I could not find my sharpie.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> G]
> 
> One is more darker then the other I have not added any distilled water to this yet and I am wondering when I start to mix this in, will gap between the 2 shades close a bit? I bought 2 bottles because my loops is around 1.2L but I decided to buy a bigger res and now I expect it to be closer to 1.4L I am not sure which bottle I want to start with. In that 1st pic with one of my green cables, that colour is more yellow green in the room where i have my computer because that room has lots of natural light.


I had the same issue, I ordered 4 bottles and two bottles were almost yellow. Mayhems sent me a small bottle of blue dye to perfect the green color. I then just mixed all of the pastel bottles into a single 1L bottle that I got from amazon for like $5 (it also has a medicine cap) to make sure there wont be any color match issue as I'm running two loops in my new build. Heres a link to the bottle http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LLA9J6/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll then just add the blue dye after I've mixed the Green Pastel with DI Water to perfect the green.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I don't quite see the problem for the loop. The first color seems to match better with the cable. I'd pour in #1 first (blue marked) and add the other to completely fill the loop. You'll end up with the most dark solution. Strange though. My pastel blues were all the same color.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> First time Mayhems user here. I ordered 2 bottles of Patel Mint Green which arrived today. I opened them side by side and it looked like they were 2 different shades of green. So I poured some in a couple of clear cups and these are the results.. Bottle one is marked with the blue tape since I could not find my sharpie.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One is more darker then the other I have not added any distilled water to this yet and I am wondering when I start to mix this in, will gap between the 2 shades close a bit? I bought 2 bottles because my loops is around 1.2L but I decided to buy a bigger res and now I expect it to be closer to 1.4L I am not sure which bottle I want to start with. In that 1st pic with one of my green cables, that colour is more yellow green in the room where i have my computer because that room has lots of natural light.


Did you shake both bottles? Like very well.

Just in case it is a matter of older stock tat has sat for a bit.


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

What tubing is recommended for use with compression fittings? PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT? Both Tygon E-1000 and Tygon 2475 I.B. are stated as non compression friendly tubing.


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALMOSTunseen*
> 
> What tubing is recommended for use with compression fittings? PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT? Both Tygon E-1000 and Tygon 2475 I.B. are stated as non compression friendly tubing.


I'm using Masterkleer 1/2 ID 3/4 OD hoses on 1/2ID 3/4OD compatible fittings, had no issues so far, and they are pretty easy to work with as they are not too stiff and not too flexible as the Clearflex.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALMOSTunseen*
> 
> What tubing is recommended for use with compression fittings? PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT? Both Tygon E-1000 and Tygon 2475 I.B. are stated as non compression friendly tubing.


Can you tell me where you read that PrimoFlex Advanced LRT?

I never think that a tubing could be non-friendly with compression fittings!

I'm currently have a setup with clear PrimoFlex Advanced LRT and Bitspower compression fittings in 3/8ID X 1/2OD and so far (2-3 weeks) everything is good.


----------



## bustacap22

.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALMOSTunseen*
> 
> What tubing is recommended for use with compression fittings? PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT? Both Tygon E-1000 and Tygon 2475 I.B. are stated as non compression friendly tubing.


I have Tygon E1000, it works fine with compression fittings and its great to work with. Expensive but worth the money.


----------



## dr/owned

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ALMOSTunseen*
> 
> What tubing is recommended for use with compression fittings? PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT? Both Tygon E-1000 and Tygon 2475 I.B. are stated as non compression friendly tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> I have Tygon E1000, it works fine with compression fittings and its great to work with. Expensive but worth the money.
Click to expand...

E3603 would be the way to go. E1000 is super soft and prone to kinking under it's own weight. Tygon makes other plasticizer free tubing, but they're fairly stiff (anything above 65 or so durometer is really not workable for a pc case).


----------



## khemist

I have E1000 also and it would come off if pulled it a bit, even with the compressions tightened all the way down, just have to be careful.


----------



## akira749

Here's my completed build with Mayhems Pastel Red with some Deep Red Dye added













Here's the difference with the original Pastel Red and mine


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Here's my completed build with Mayhems Pastel Red with some Deep Red Dye added
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the difference with the original Pastel Red and mine


Stellar looking, I love pastel. Also those Bitfenix fans are totally pimp


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Stellar looking, I love pastel. Also those Bitfenix fans are totally pimp


Yeah they are, although they do look orange though







.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I had the same issue, I ordered 4 bottles and two bottles were almost yellow. Mayhems sent me a small bottle of blue dye to perfect the green color. I then just mixed all of the pastel bottles into a single 1L bottle that I got from amazon for like $5 (it also has a medicine cap) to make sure there wont be any color match issue as I'm running two loops in my new build. Heres a link to the bottle http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LLA9J6/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> I'll then just add the blue dye after I've mixed the Green Pastel with DI Water to perfect the green.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Did you shake both bottles? Like very well.
> 
> Just in case it is a matter of older stock tat has sat for a bit.


Yeah I gave both of them a good shake and one still darker then the other. I decided to do my cup test made 750ml to make 1L of coolant in separate containers. In the 3rd cup is a 50/50 mixure.



In the end I decided just to mix the 2. I have since then filled my system and is under leak testing. Here's what it currently looks like in the room where I have my computer. This room gets a ridiculous amount ambient sunlight and i should have really did my cup test in this room.



A unexpected result. I think the results look good so far, I will have to see when I start to putting things back in again. Will post more when I get it completed


----------



## Mayhem

Just go back from my hos,

once ive sorted a few things out ill get around to answering email, questions and any support issues. Please give me 48 hrs though.

thks.

Mick


----------



## Adrenalined

My first loop with some pastel blueberry. Sorry for the terrible cell phone picture quality. I'm in love with the color of this even though it doesn't match the cables I sleeved. Should I want to make it slightly darker just buy the blue dye?


----------



## Adrenalined

double post


----------



## Pole04

I have been toying around with some different ideas, and I wanted to know what you guys think. Keep in mind I have never used Mayhem's dye before.

I am thinking of using Deep Red Mixed with a few drops or UV Pink to get a UV Deep Red color going. I plan on using PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Clear tubing.

I was also wanting to mix in the XT-1 coolant but I am not sure if I should be looking at the XT-1 or just using the X1. Any input or advice is greatly appreciated!

One more question I have is will this obscure or damage a Red FrozenQ Quad Spiral res?

-Pole


----------



## Noskcaj

what red dye would work best with a volenti cooler?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> I have been toying around with some different ideas, and I wanted to know what you guys think. Keep in mind I have never used Mayhem's dye before.
> 
> I am thinking of using Deep Red Mixed with a few drops or UV Pink to get a UV Deep Red color going. I plan on using PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Clear tubing.
> 
> I was also wanting to mix in the XT-1 coolant but I am not sure if I should be looking at the XT-1 or just using the X1. Any input or advice is greatly appreciated!
> 
> One more question I have is will this obscure or damage a Red FrozenQ Quad Spiral res?
> 
> -Pole


One thing I will answer for you with confidence is that *UV Pink will stain.* Mayhem's warn about this a lot. They have been trying new Pink's but I don't think they have been solved yet.


----------



## Mayhem

@Agent_kenshin The colour difference you see is a batch difference. What you have there is When one batch from a supplier or from us has moved to the next batch. Because everything is done by hand from the ground up every time we make dyes they are always slightly different and this is seen when they are put together. Mixing the two though will have no effect. The batches are made weekly so there should be no more than 3 to 4 weeks difference between them.

As we grow we will increase batch sizes but we now make over 100+ Products for ourselves and different companies hence storing such a large array of products can be a headache hence why the batches are kept quite small and fresh.

@Pole04 UV pink will stain you res. do not use it on such a nice res that is hard to access and clean out.


----------



## snef

Hi evryone

i use now Bluberry pastel in my wife's rig

pics


but now im doing a new build for my wife with caselab case and she want change color from blue to purple

possible to make this color with pastel
because if i look on frozencpu, the purple is more blue than purple
if put red dyr in blue pastel, can we make this color or close to this color



thanks for your help


----------



## ginger_nuts

If you are changing cases, I would be happy to take the Bitfenix off your hands


----------



## Pole04

Thanks Mayhem and ginger! I will just go with a bit lighter Deep Red Mixture then. I will have to look into possibly getting UV reactive red tubing or simply adding more leds to the tubing around the loop. I look forward to trying this out!

Will the XT-1 glycol mixture play nicely with a mostly nickle/copper loop? Also are there any indications that it shouldn't be used in a loop with acrylic reservoirs?


----------



## Mayhem

Yes XT1 is perfect for any type of plating. It has No issues with any thing in a loop.


----------



## Alchemistchaos

Hey, I was wondering if anyone knows what happens when you mix UV Clear Blue with normal Red mayhems dye. I was thinking of having a loop that's just straight red in normal light, but a bit deeper when it gets hit w/ UV (kind of going for a hybrid blood red when lit).


----------



## BMWM3GTR

I just recently finished my loop and used Mayhems biocide and dye along with distilled water. I tested the water with the included test strips and added biocide to achieve the PH balance of 7. I then added dye to achieve this color. Picture was taken a week ago.


This is how it looks like as of now.


Its completely clear. The color never really stood out though the tubing, could only tell that there was dye from the reservoir. I'm using darlene tubing and thought that was the reason. I was going to buy some white pastel and add the purple dye. But the dye is completely gone and the loop has not been touched. Not sure what happened to the dye.


----------



## Mayhem

@BMWM3GTR How much biocide did you add. You can test if it was the biocide buy adding the same amount of dye and liquid and biocide in a glass jar and cover it over and leaving it for a few days. if the Dye doesn't fade then there is some thing else in you loop causing issue. if it does fade then you've added to much biocide or some thing else is happening that we need to look into. Remember 1 Drop per 1 Ltr of fluid is all that is needed.


----------



## golfergolfer

Hello everyone! I have always loved Mayhems Dyes and now I am going to be getting the chance to use some! I had originally planned on buying some Dark Blue Dye for my loop but then I also found out about Ocean Blue. Does anyone here have any pictures on what the difference is? I havent been able to find a good one that really shows it. But in my search I came across the beloved Mayhems Pastel (Blue Berry). I plan on using this rig for about 4 years and on the first page it has been tested for 3 which is pretty good but I find the color a little to bright for my liking and was wondering if I added either Dark Blue or Ocean Blue would it make a difference?

To sum it all up:
*
Dark Blue Dye VERSUS Ocean Blue Dye?

Dark Blue Dye PLUS Blue Berry Pastel = ?

Ocean Blue Dye PLUS Blue Berry Pastel = ?*


----------



## BMWM3GTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @BMWM3GTR How much biocide did you add. You can test if it was the biocide buy adding the same amount of dye and liquid and biocide in a glass jar and cover it over and leaving it for a few days. if the Dye doesn't fade then there is some thing else in you loop causing issue. if it does fade then you've added to much biocide or some thing else is happening that we need to look into. Remember 1 Drop per 1 Ltr of fluid is all that is needed.


I added two or three drops of biocides when filling the loop. My loops holds about 1.5 liters with the res filled pretty close to the top. I followed the instructions that came with the biocide, didnt know it only required one drop per liter. Just ordered some pastel white concentrate and going to give that a try before changing out the Darlene tubing.


----------



## h2on0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi evryone
> 
> i use now Bluberry pastel in my wife's rig
> 
> pics
> 
> 
> but now im doing a new build for my wife with caselab case and she want change color from blue to purple
> 
> possible to make this color with pastel
> because if i look on frozencpu, the purple is more blue than purple
> if put red dyr in blue pastel, can we make this color or close to this color
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for your help


Interested in purple too. Also, having a litre of blue berry pastel sitting around, would love to know what I could mix with it.

Oh, and real nice build by the way.


----------



## Mayhem

@BMWM3GTR yeh it only need 1 drop the biocide is extremely strong. If you email me your address ill replace the dye for you if you used to much and have none left.,

To make a dark purple you can use Deep bl;ue , blue, plus red + deep red.


----------



## fakeblood

two bottles of giga orange with a few drops of red dye for good measure


----------



## siffonen

@Mayhem

Do you send items to Finland? I`m changing my case for a 900D, and i probably dont have enough pastel white for the bigger case , so i`m looking for a concentrate or a premix of pastel white.


----------



## Mayhem

@siffonen Im sorry i only deal with support and have to follow rules of this forums and cannot discuss whom we sell to or were we send products to ect ect. You can contact our sales dept direct at [email protected] and they will help you out. I hope you understand.

Mick


----------



## ginger_nuts

There is some very *BEAUTIFUL* looking rigs in here, I wish I could get the people to also post them in my gallery I have tried to get going. (link in sig)

But I am not allowed to artificially inflate or spam people. (hope this doesn't get me in trouble)









Could people not email you "Mayhems" at your companies support email, then you can provide "support" for them.


----------



## _REAPER_

I will post my RIG when I get home on RR, just need to put in the new 360 RAD and the gpu blocks.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> There is some very *BEAUTIFUL* looking rigs in here, I wish I could get the people to also post them in my gallery I have tried to get going. (link in sig)
> 
> But I am not allowed to artificially inflate or spam people. (hope this doesn't get me in trouble)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could people not email you "Mayhems" at your companies support email, then you can provide "support" for them.


contributed to your thread


----------



## glent12

Picture ain't the best

Mayhems pastel + few drops of deep blue. The colour is amazing!


video of me trying dyes in Pastel White


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I will post my RIG when I get home on RR, just need to put in the new 360 RAD and the gpu blocks.


It will be most appreciated









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> contributed to your thread


Thanks very much, the more I see the orange, the more I like it


----------



## Swisser

I will hopefully be getting my mint green in before I go out of town for the weekend. I will post pictures once its in Think its going to look good with the green LEDs on my keyboard and mouse.


----------



## liberato87

CLEARFLEX 60 tubing after 2 days...
below it is CLEARFLEX 60 not used.





I cleaned the tube before but nothing...

Should I try the Primochill Primoflex Advanced?
I hate that cloudy... but that tube costs 7 euro at meter so I would buy only in I am sure that there is no clouding


----------



## Mayhem

Clear flex 60 does go cloudy but its cheap as chips and with pastel not noticeable and does the job for the price you pay.


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Clear flex 60 does go cloudy but its cheap as chips and with pastel not noticeable and does the job for the price you pay.


Yes... But what about primochill primoflex advanced lrt? What about tygon e-1000?
I saw them recommended in the first page but what about clouding? Are them worth for
The price?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> Yes... But what about primochill primoflex advanced lrt? What about tygon e-1000?
> I saw them recommended in the first page but what about clouding? Are them worth for
> The price?


I have the E 1000, it's amazing


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I have the E 1000, it's amazing


what do you mean for "amazing"?
what about clouding?
I red it is a very soft tube, isn't it?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glent12*
> 
> Picture ain't the best
> 
> Mayhems pastel + few drops of deep blue. The colour is amazing!


Looks a lot like mine


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glent12*
> 
> Picture ain't the best
> 
> Mayhems pastel + few drops of deep blue. The colour is amazing!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> video of me trying dyes in Pastel White


Love that blue


----------



## handi420

Using blue berry!


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Agent_kenshin The colour difference you see is a batch difference. What you have there is When one batch from a supplier or from us has moved to the next batch. Because everything is done by hand from the ground up every time we make dyes they are always slightly different and this is seen when they are put together. Mixing the two though will have no effect. The batches are made weekly so there should be no more than 3 to 4 weeks difference between them.
> 
> As we grow we will increase batch sizes but we now make over 100+ Products for ourselves and different companies hence storing such a large array of products can be a headache hence why the batches are kept quite small and fresh.
> 
> @Pole04 UV pink will stain you res. do not use it on such a nice res that is hard to access and clean out.


Thanks for the response. I figured that I would have to end up altering it later with a little bit of blue. here's some completed pics i posted in my log.


----------



## Al plants Corn

Anyone have experience with either of these Tygon Tubings? They're both plasticizer free, but one is extra chemical resistant?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10693/ex-tub-665/Tygon_2475_Ultra_Chemical_Resistant_Plasticizer_Free_Tubing_-_12_ID_34_OD_-_Clear_ACG00038.html?tl=g30c99s1614

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16794/ex-tub-1368/Tygon_E-1000_12_ID_34_OD_-_Plasticizer_Free_Flexible_Tubing_ADK00038.html?tl=g30c99s1614


----------



## hammadj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Al plants Corn*
> 
> Anyone have experience with either of these Tygon Tubings? They're both plasticizer free, but one is extra chemical resistant?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10693/ex-tub-665/Tygon_2475_Ultra_Chemical_Resistant_Plasticizer_Free_Tubing_-_12_ID_34_OD_-_Clear_ACG00038.html?tl=g30c99s1614
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16794/ex-tub-1368/Tygon_E-1000_12_ID_34_OD_-_Plasticizer_Free_Flexible_Tubing_ADK00038.html?tl=g30c99s1614


E1000 is superior to my knowledge


----------



## Al plants Corn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammadj*
> 
> E1000 is superior to my knowledge


Well SH-, I just ordered the uber chemical free one..... but that shouldnt change anything if its the E1000 + extra right?


----------



## hammadj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Al plants Corn*
> 
> Well SH-, I just ordered the uber chemical free one..... but that shouldnt change anything if its the E1000 + extra right?


Im not sure, I haven't heard much about the 2475. All I know is that E1000 is tested and true with Mayhems


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Al plants Corn*
> 
> Anyone have experience with either of these Tygon Tubings? They're both plasticizer free, but one is extra chemical resistant?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10693/ex-tub-665/Tygon_2475_Ultra_Chemical_Resistant_Plasticizer_Free_Tubing_-_12_ID_34_OD_-_Clear_ACG00038.html?tl=g30c99s1614
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16794/ex-tub-1368/Tygon_E-1000_12_ID_34_OD_-_Plasticizer_Free_Flexible_Tubing_ADK00038.html?tl=g30c99s1614


I have used the 2475 in two seperate TJ11 builds.
My personal opinion is that this is quality tube, as reflected by the hefty price tag. It is however, really hard and doesn't bend that well. That also means you will have to work hard at it to kink.

I have been running close to 3 months now with Mayhem's Pastel Ice White with no visible degradation, clouding or plasticizer issues. Yet.









It will be good if you have straight lines in your loop, but if you have tight bends to make, I'd maybe look for something else.

I have no experience with e1000.

Good luck !


----------



## dr/owned

^^ Just get E3603 from McMaster Carr and be done with it.

In the same line as 2475 and 1000, but just the right flexibility. More rigid than 1000 which is floppy and softer than 2475 which is like pvc pipe.

The harder the tubing is, the harder the walls are making it less likely for stuff to be able to stick to it or permeate through it. Not really an issue for watercooling.


----------



## Mayhem

E1000 Is soft and flexible. We have now fitted it into 3 rigs with no issues what so ever. It is not Crystal clear though but this doesn't matter as pastel does not need it to be. It doesn't leach but because its soft you need to be careful with fittings as it can easily be pulled out.


----------



## mavisky

I use the E1000 in my rig and use it on barb fittings and it works great when clamped down. You do need to be careful about the bends you put it under as it is a very soft tubing. My suggestion is to cut your tubbing a bit long, install it, and then shorten it until it doesn't kink or collapse.


----------



## Al plants Corn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> E1000 Is soft and flexible. We have now fitted it into 3 rigs with no issues what so ever. It is not Crystal clear though but this doesn't matter as pastel does not need it to be. It doesn't leach but because its soft you need to be careful with fittings as it can easily be pulled out.


Excellent,

I was able to call them up and get the tubing switched before it got sent out. It's the 1/2" ID 3/4" OD E1000, I'll be using it with Pastel Blue Berry, and Swiftech LOK-Seal Fittings!


----------



## NASzi

http://minus.com/lbsmm7iIx3LwVm


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://minus.com/lbsmm7iIx3LwVm


Very clean! The pastel white looks good in your rig. Time to get those blocks under water.


----------



## natsu2014

Guys can I mix X1 Blood red with DI water + red dye?


----------



## Klavins

Mayhems UV Green with Blue dye

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/12/img2257c.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/43/img2254tt.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/594/img2263rt.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/820/img2260cw.jpg/


----------



## Mayhem

@natsu2014 Yes you can as long as its the concentrate.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> http://minus.com/lbsmm7iIx3LwVm


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klavins*
> 
> Mayhems UV Green with Blue dye
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/12/img2257c.jpg/
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/43/img2254tt.jpg/
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/594/img2263rt.jpg/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/820/img2260cw.jpg/


Two extremely nice clean builds


----------



## akira749

Is the UV Emerald Green available somewhere in america?


----------



## hammadj

Hey guys, what would happen if I made 1.5 L of Mayhem's Aurora instead of the recommended 1.0 L? Would it affect anything in a noticeable way?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Some Pastel Mint Green action:


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammadj*
> 
> Hey guys, what would happen if I made 1.5 L of Mayhem's Aurora instead of the recommended 1.0 L? Would it affect anything in a noticeable way?


The coolant would break down faster, but that's it.


----------



## hammadj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> The coolant would break down faster, but that's it.


What do you mean by break down?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Some Pastel Mint Green action:


Clean looking 900D. Tried some IceDragon coolant and some green dye.....came out with a mintish color.


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammadj*
> 
> What do you mean by break down?


The aurora effect would be less clear, and over time, it would start to dilute further, due to you diluting it in the first place. It will pretty much turn into mayhems pastel after a short time.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Some Pastel Mint Green action:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Clean looking 900D. Tried some IceDragon coolant and some green dye.....came out with a mintish color.


After seeing these and some other Pastel Green loops I am thinking the scratch case which I am planning, 90% white, might just have to get some Pastel green added









Or do I go the Gigabyte Orange


----------



## Lutfij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Some Pastel Mint Green action:


wow - just wow


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Is the UV Emerald Green available somewhere in america?


Mayhems??


----------



## Kainn

Man, my green never looked that good, wish it didn't stain my tubing :/


----------



## Mayhem

"Rebel A" Case Mod Part 3: Cooler Master Cosmos II Gaming PC by Mnpctech


----------



## Blaze0303

Just ordered some Ocean Blue. Can't wait for it to arrive.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> After seeing these and some other Pastel Green loops I am thinking the scratch case which I am planning, 90% white, might just have to get some Pastel green added
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or do I go the Gigabyte Orange


Go for the Green!


----------



## PandaSPUR

greeeeeeeeeeeeeen


----------



## Mayhem

Just some samples together to show what they look like in normal light.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I need a crazy toxic waste looking green. (Must be UV.) Because my build is almost done and I'm just waiting on Dwood to ship some parts in. Any ideas fellas? Think BIOHAZARD GREEN.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I need a crazy toxic waste looking green. (Must be UV.) Because my build is almost done and I'm just waiting on Dwood to ship some parts in. Any ideas fellas? Think BIOHAZARD GREEN.


Are meaning something like *THIS*

If so, try messaging jimlaheysadrunk


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Kind of but more of a darker uv green.







like the ooze from teenage mutant ninja turtles or some kind of chemical waste.


----------



## Mayhem

We haven't actually tried it yet but once i get my work out the way ill see what The new hyper Green and Pastel looks like for you under UV.

Were in the middle of sending out some test samples of A2 to testers next weeks so pretty bissy.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Nice. I'm almost ready for that work log like you wanted months ago. lol Been busy with school.


----------



## _REAPER_

@Meyhem how was RR I know you have been back for awhile but I have been retrograding bases in Afghanistan. I hope you got some rest.


----------



## Pavo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We haven't actually tried it yet but once i get my work out the way ill see what The new hyper Green and Pastel looks like for you under UV.
> 
> Were in the middle of sending out some test samples of A2 to testers next weeks so pretty bissy.


By A2 do you mean the Aurora 2 that's kinda of meant for longer use? If yes please keep us posted. I just bought 2 bottles of your supernova and going to mess around with that after I get my FrozenQ res.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Do you note, imho that is, only some FrozenQ reservoirs look good with dye. Like the reactor cores go well with dye.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Do you note, imho that is, only some FrozenQ reservoirs look good with dye. Like the reactor cores go well with dye.


----------



## Mayhem

@Pavo yes A2 is Aurora 2. Weve got it down alot smaller in size its now a nano mix and working on a totaly new type of mix for it.




@NinjaSushi2 thks for asking our hols were a nightmare but that's a long story haha. I only just caught up with the work load yesterday for taken that week off haha.


----------



## h2on0

Is there an eta on the A2?
Thanks.


----------



## Mayhem

Sorry no ETA. It goes off to testers for a few months and i wait to see what is said. Making this liquid work for a long time is taking a very long time.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sorry no ETA. It goes off to testers for a few months and i wait to see what is said. Making this liquid work for a long time is taking a very long time.


That is just irony, takes along time to make something which works a long time


----------



## Mayhem

Well tbh it would help if rad makers actually started making better rads we wouldn't have so many issues. The way they are made is bad and it leaves gaping holes all over and crevasse's due to the way the metal is folded and not welded correctly. Chinese manufacturing looks good on the out side but underneath all the gloss its rubbish. There is a easy fix for the manufacturers to do and it would improve there perforce as well but i am not telling them how. I may make a proto type one day when i get some more time.

One thing aurora does well it picks up all the faults of other products haha.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Well tbh it would help if rad makers actually started making better rads we wouldn't have so many issues. The way they are made is bad and it leaves gaping holes all over and crevasse's due to the way the metal is folded and not welded correctly. Chinese manufacturing looks good on the out side but underneath all the gloss its rubbish. There is a easy fix for the manufacturers to do and it would improve there perforce as well but i am not telling them how. I may make a proto type one day when i get some more time.
> 
> One thing aurora does well it picks up all the faults of other products haha.


HAHA! I know what you mean. I once put a rad in without washing it and took it out two months later to clean my res. There was black sludge in the radiator. (Not saying who makes it though..) Not sure how that happened since the rest of the loop was fine but it was flippin' nasty.


----------



## rebelextrm02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rebelextrm02*
> 
> I'd like to join in. I built my first loop a few weeks back and used Mayhems Pastel Ice White and distilled water after the leak test.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm 100% happy with Mayhems. I may end up being slightly disappointing in the tubing I bought though. I used Durelene from Sidewinders computers and after about 3 or 4 weeks I think i'm starting to see some slight yellowing to the tubing. You can't see in the picture but in person it's quite evident. Only time will tell I suppose.


Unfortunately my Durelene kept turning yellow. The computer has been ran for about 5 hours a week for the last three months. Not sure why this happened. I flushed everything in the beginning with dawn dish soap and hot water, then ran it for a day with straight distilled, then flushed with fresh distilled and refilled with one part Mayhems Pastel Ice White and three parts distilled water. All parts are from the xspc rs240 raystorm kit. Anyone else ever have this happen? Any other tubing suggestions? I really like my Mayhems and want to stick with clear tubing to use it.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Quick question for Mayhem users. I just recently broke down my loop and cleaned all my blocks(CPU, 2 x GPU). My new loop is using XSPC UV Blue tubing w/ distilled water and a silver coil. I've been thinking it's time to add some Mayhems UV blue clear to the loop. Do I need to take the silver coil out before adding the UV blue clear dye? Does the UV clear dye have any biocides/ growth deterrents?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rebelextrm02*
> 
> Unfortunately my Durelene kept turning yellow. The computer has been ran for about 5 hours a week for the last three months. Not sure why this happened. I flushed everything in the beginning with dawn dish soap and hot water, then ran it for a day with straight distilled, then flushed with fresh distilled and refilled with one part Mayhems Pastel Ice White and three parts distilled water. All parts are from the xspc rs240 raystorm kit. Anyone else ever have this happen? Any other tubing suggestions? I really like my Mayhems and don't want to stick with clear tubing to use it.










So you want to change the tubing to something colored? If so try Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing.

If you want to keep with clear tubing I am using MasterKleer with no color change, except when emptied, the tubing has a blue stain to it, which you have to expect when using any die.

But by the sounds of it you did a couple of things which did not help your tubing, first is using HOT water, plasticizes are released quicker by higher temps and second is use dish soap (I once used diluted cleaning vinegar and will never again, after is stripped the chrome platting of my fittings). Personally I would never recommend using anything except water to clean out loops (now).


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rebelextrm02*
> 
> Unfortunately my Durelene kept turning yellow. The computer has been ran for about 5 hours a week for the last three months. Not sure why this happened. I flushed everything in the beginning with dawn dish soap and hot water, then ran it for a day with straight distilled, then flushed with fresh distilled and refilled with one part Mayhems Pastel Ice White and three parts distilled water. All parts are from the xspc rs240 raystorm kit. Anyone else ever have this happen? Any other tubing suggestions? I really like my Mayhems and don't want to stick with clear tubing to use it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's odd. I just bought about 30 feet of Durelene tubing from sidewinder a few days ago. Mind you Durelene is made by the people who make Tygon tubing so I know it's good stuff. I'm with Ginger_Nuts on this one. I think you damaged your tubing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spin Cykle*
> 
> Quick question for Mayhem users. I just recently broke down my loop and cleaned all my blocks(CPU, 2 x GPU). My new loop is using XSPC UV Blue tubing w/ distilled water and a silver coil. I've been thinking it's time to add some Mayhems UV blue clear to the loop. Do I need to take the silver coil out before adding the UV blue clear dye? Does the UV clear dye have any biocides/ growth deterrents?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


As far as I know only the Pastel dyes have biocide made with them. All the UV tubing does not. Also make sure you don't have any nickle in your loop when using a silver coil.


----------



## rebelextrm02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you want to change the tubing to something colored? If so try Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing.
> 
> If you want to keep with clear tubing I am using MasterKleer with no color change, except when emptied, the tubing has a blue stain to it, which you have to expect when using any die.
> 
> But by the sounds of it you did a couple of things which did not help your tubing, first is using HOT water, plasticizes are released quicker by higher temps and second is use dish soap (I once used diluted cleaning vinegar and will never again, after is stripped the chrome platting of my fittings). Personally I would never recommend using anything except water to clean out loops (now).


I meant I wanted to stick with clear. Good catch! Thanks for the information. I didn't run hot water through the tubing, just the rad and water block before putting the loop together. I guess I should really say warm since it wasn't hot enough to burn me when I was doing it. The only thing the durelene saw was the cold distilled and then the mayhems mixture. Fortunately I have enough durelene left over to redo my loop. I'll follow your suggestions and use just distilled water to clean everything when I strip it down. Should I dispose of the fluid in my loop and buy more or is it reusable?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Use new fluid to be safe. You can buy any distilled water say at Walmart it wherever. All distilled water is the same unless you but industrial which is like 99.99999999999999999% pure. (Used for transmitters and other radio/tv equipment which requires industrial water cooling.)


----------



## ginger_nuts

Also be worth while to test the PH before putting more coolant in. There is a few posts on that topic in this thread.


----------



## rebelextrm02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You can easily fix this by flushing your system with "Sodium bicarbonate" (NaHCO3) aka baking soda, bread soda, cooking soda, and bicarbonate of soda. This will correctly align your PH balance of your loop before adding any fluids.


Any recommendations on mixture ratios for this solution for flushing?


----------



## Mayhem

@rebelextrm02 I dunno about bad tubing but we have some tubing turn green on us as well. All we know is it seems to be a chemical reaction but we dont know why.

@Spin Cykle If your just using dye on its own keep the kill coil in.


----------



## golfergolfer

I am going to be running some Pastel Blue Berry with maybe a little bit of Dark Blue Dye soon in some Tygon E-1000. I was just wondering if there is anything I should know before I set it all up? Like for example how I should flush out my rads and pumps before hand? Also if I should wash out my new blocks as well?


----------



## Mayhem

All ways flush out a system no matter if it new or old or second hand. How you flush is really up to you but i now flush with bicarb and water, then rinse with Di water. then fill.

Every one does it a little differently.


----------



## Mayhem

well this is 1ltr of the new Nano A2.


----------



## Mayhem

Double post ops.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> well this is 1ltr of the new Nano A2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If you are looking for a name still, something like "Supa Nova" would be good.


----------



## silveralf

Joining the club!







Ordered the last three bottles of Nebula Blue Mayhems Aurora Coolant Concentrate from FrozenCPU.com

Mayhems Aurora Coolant Concentrate - 250mL - Nebula Blue


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> well this is 1ltr of the new Nano A2.


"DarkMatter Nova" or "Celestial Darkmatter" even "universal Starburst"







...

Gotta Love what Mayhems is trying to do with PC cooling fluids







..

I'm still a big fan of the Aurora range & the X1 fluid is just second to none... I got a rig going here with X1 in with a few drops of mayhems yellow dye still looking pristine after being in there for Nigh on 18 > 20 months... Excellent stuff







..

Not had a chance to try any of the Pastel range just yet, But have been keeping an eye on some of the great colours peoples have achieved in their systems & the stuff does look good for sure...

Keep it up Mick...









N.


----------



## Mayhem

@Nornam we should send you a sample to play with you the top guy on aurora







.

@silveralf This is the new aurora that we've been working on for a long time (still not complete). Aurora (what you ordered) is meant for short term use, were as this being is worked on for long term use. It should have much better befits over he original with less drop out and stuff like that. This OFC is all yet to be confirmed.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Nornam we should send you a sample to play with you the top guy on aurora
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Well now.... Funny you should say that... But I was going to change my Loop in my Main PC in a couple weeks & having a wee dram of this New Aurora would be an Ideal time to give it a whirl







... If you can let me have some I'll make up a loop especially for the Fluid Mainly for Pics & a Vid...

I beleive you should still have my Address details but if not let me know & I'll e-mail you it again







..

All the best

N. (Namron)


----------



## silveralf

Black Hole


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Black holes wouldn't have light though.

What about camouflage? It kind of looks like darker camo in the other pics.


----------



## Mayhem

Vid for you as you can see if you watch all the way though the light has a massive impact on how the liquid looks.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I see what you mean, in some shots it looked like it was a silky black.

If this works and is intended for a long term, I have found my next coolant


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I see what you mean, in some shots it looked like it was a silky black.
> 
> If this works and is intended for a long term, I have found my next coolant


I would have to second that statement, if only I had a rig


----------



## _REAPER_

If this coolant works long term count me in


----------



## Mayhem

It should last longer yes, how ever if some one sticks a filter in there or a t-line then there is no hope for mankind.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It should last longer yes, how ever if some one sticks a filter in there or a t-line then there is no hope for mankind.


What is your target in terms of life in a loop for the A2?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> well this is 1ltr of the new Nano A2.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> G]


Wow - Amazing! I will try that in a heartbeat depending on the available shades.


----------



## Mayhem

The target time is 1 year to 15 months max


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The target time is 1 year to 15 months max


What color shades will you have for this new beastly concoction? I Just put in the pastel green but this is just epic looking!


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> What color shades will you have for this new beastly concoction? I Just put in the pastel green but this is just epic looking!


We dont know yet we need to make sure the base concept works before we go into colour.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The target time is 1 year to 15 months max


That would work perfect, I would bet most people *never* leave their loop for more then that before changing something









Lets face it, change of GPU or case, is always a great excuse to change the color


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The target time is 1 year to 15 months max


1 year is wonderful...i'm looking forward for the tests results!!


----------



## ea3ot

I,m using for about 3 years the Mayhems Dye+kilcoils with good succes, now I must to change the tubes on my benchtable ( I,m going to use Duralene after a horrible experience with Primochill LRT) . my question is if it will be a good idea change to the Pastel ( blue) . I,m afraid to loose cooling eficiency or get problems as I have read googling. I. Need some opinion about this change.


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel from as far as im concerned will give you a +2c increase how ever this is debatable, some users have seen decreases, some uses have seen increases. Under Conditions that are set in place we've found it to be a +2c increase in a controlled environment.

At the end of the day take what every one says with a pinch of salt this includes us. you make up your own mind.


----------



## ea3ot

Thanks Mick.


----------



## Blaze0303

Got my Ocean blue in!

http://s39.photobucket.com/user/blaze0303/media/IMG_20130501_072216_zps972d1167.jpg.html


----------



## snef

Use mayhem blueberry pastel in new wife's rig


----------



## ginger_nuts

^^^ That white and blue works well.









I would suggest that your PSU be white or a blue cover. IMO


----------



## PandaSPUR

Looks great!

And actually I think a simple black (matte black?) PSU may be better. it'd match with your fans. Or black/white PSU.
White PSU with black fan (no grill)? Or Black with white fan?









Either way, great looking rig so far!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Use mayhem blueberry pastel in new wife's rig


DMN that looks nice


----------



## friskiest

This is what a heatkiller copper block looks like after several months with Mayhems Tharsis Red.

The specs were invisible to the eye, but once the block was wiped with tissue this is what came up.

I'm sure this is a well known fact, but sharing nonetheless.




This is also why I only run pastel in my own loop


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> This is what a heatkiller copper block looks like after several months with Mayhems Tharsis Red.
> 
> The specs were invisible to the eye, but once the block was wiped with tissue this is what came up.
> 
> I'm sure this is a well known fact, but sharing nonetheless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is also why I only run pastel in my own loop


Glad to see if ran for a few months,. Its best to rinse it off cos no matter how much wipeing you do it will still be there unless washed.


----------



## Blaze0303

http://s39.photobucket.com/user/blaze0303/media/IMG_20130501_180343_zpsde77011c.jpg.html

http://s39.photobucket.com/user/bla...b-4a21-b8bb-314de3ddb070_zps7fdc308e.jpg.html

Some fresh ocean blue in my loop









Sorry for the cellphone shots, better pictures later!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Use mayhem blueberry pastel in new wife's rig


MAN THAT IS NICE!!


----------



## NBAasDOGG

Hi guys,

Im am new with Mayhems coolants. I actually ordered Mayhams clear uv blue (15ml).
But my question is, does it also glow with strong blue case light?

Thank


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Youll need uv light to activate it.


----------



## PunkNugget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Youll need uv light to activate it.


You want UV light? Well, I've got some for you right here:

http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/287857-new-macmod-2013-build-lemon-lime-twist/

Scroll to the bottom to Post #7 and click on the Spoiler "Show" button to reveal all the pics.

Here's one for you though:



The loop is using Ice Dragon and Mayhems' combo of:

- UV Green
- UV Laser Green
- Dark Blue

Let me know what you guys think. To my knowledge it has the most UV lights in a single strip in any PC cased system that I've seen so far and it lights up the whole office !!! If you seen another one with more please post it (as I like to see more UV lit PC builds). Thanks...


----------



## PunkNugget

.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Nice. My Project DayZ build will be UV rich. Im trying to find a day that will give it justice and the effect of toxic sludge/waste/biohazard waste. Any ideas? I want something to glow like D-TEK Alien Green. (build log coming in two weeks!) School has to end first.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

There was no uv pics there.


----------



## PunkNugget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> There was no uv pics there.


As I mentioned before:

*Scroll to the bottom to Post #7 and click on the Spoiler "Show" button to reveal all the pics.*

Please let me know if it works or not for you when you click on the Show button. Thanks, later...


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Was on my phone so I guess I missed it. On my PC now.

Edit: It's nice but not my taste. I like select color schemes and minimal tubing required. Also I like all my lights hidden so I get the effect without seeing the "behind the scenes".


----------



## haritz85

Hi,

I bought a 15ml Uv clear blue bottle + X1 mayhems uv clear blue last week and I guess that something is wrong with that stuff.

With X1 I got some UV green effect in my phobya balancer res wich was cleaned before with di water during 1H. The perfomance hasn't change so I will keep this coolant in the loop for a while.

On the other side, I tried 15ml UV clear blue in a 1L distilled water. Same effect... Before buying this, I spent 22 euros on a Pastel UV wihte 1L botlle and the UV effect disappeared in 3 weeks...

Liquid should be the same color as the tube. FYI: 7ml dropped in to 1L and this is the awfull effect with phobya 120CM UV leds.

In white paper the color matches WT???....

So, could someone give me a logical explanation for that? I've spent +/- 40 Euros and I'm really disappointed...

(sry for my English)


----------



## PunkNugget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Was on my phone so I guess I missed it. On my PC now.
> 
> Edit: It's nice but not my taste. I like select color schemes and minimal tubing required. Also I like all my lights hidden so I get the effect without seeing the "behind the scenes".


Thanks for the compliment (I guess). You said "I like select color schemes"... Almost comes across that I don't. There's a reason why I call it Lemon Lime Twist; *because* of the the "color scheme" and it has the twisted tubes with the lemon/lime color. Personally, I LOVE tubing. Kinda like a Hot Rod, I like to show off my engine. BTW, when the cover is on the lights are pretty much hidden, so I don't know where you were going with your reply?... But thanks anyway...


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Oh well that makes sense more or less. I was just stating it's a good mod just not my taste. I won't blow smoke up you and tell you I love it. I like the UV effect as well. It's just the black, white, gold, red, yellow, lemon line, green, silver, etc. Just too many colors for me is all. My build (log coming soon) will be green and black with a hint of white which is for the theme.


Spoiler: Hint







That will be the only white in the case itself. I'm taking the tubing to a minimal if I can and all the cables, wires, etc. will be sleeved using MDPC-X. (sata, psu, fans, etc.)

I'm more of a reserved guy with a touch of flash. Though I have seen some pretty crazy mods that look like a skittles rainbow smack right into it. haha

If I could give some advice; I'd love to see that you sleeved the cables with a UV-Green touch. I think it would really accent the case overall.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PunkNugget*
> 
> You want UV light? Well, I've got some for you right here:
> 
> http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/287857-new-macmod-2013-build-lemon-lime-twist/
> 
> Scroll to the bottom to Post #7 and click on the Spoiler "Show" button to reveal all the pics.
> 
> Here's one for you though:
> 
> 
> 
> The loop is using Ice Dragon and Mayhems' combo of:
> 
> - UV Green
> - UV Laser Green
> - Dark Blue
> 
> Let me know what you guys think. To my knowledge it has the most UV lights in a single strip in any PC cased system that I've seen so far and it lights up the whole office !!! If you seen another one with more please post it (as I like to see more UV lit PC builds). Thanks...


DMN that looks nice


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PunkNugget*
> 
> You want UV light? Well, I've got some for you right here:
> 
> http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/287857-new-macmod-2013-build-lemon-lime-twist/
> 
> Scroll to the bottom to Post #7 and click on the Spoiler "Show" button to reveal all the pics.
> 
> Here's one for you though:
> 
> 
> 
> The loop is using Ice Dragon and Mayhems' combo of:
> 
> - UV Green
> - UV Laser Green
> - Dark Blue
> 
> Let me know what you guys think. To my knowledge it has the most UV lights in a single strip in any PC cased system that I've seen so far and it lights up the whole office !!! If you seen another one with more please post it (as I like to see more UV lit PC builds). Thanks...


hahaha Oky we need to make that colour and sell it hahahaha .Nice one


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Use mayhem blueberry pastel in new wife's rig


Terrific job, very nice....


----------



## Mayhem

@haritz85 Bit lost and don't fully understand what the issue is how ever ill give it a go. You added 15ml of UV clear Blue to 1 Ltr of X1. That is a lot of dye to add to X1. You only need 1 to 5 drops of UV clear blue to 1 Ltr of water or X1, if you use "Good" Uv light it will show though fine. UV clear Blue is a very light blue effect and just shimmers under UV Light. You seemingly have added way to much into your system hence it looks UV Green. How ever if you not happy then my email address is [email protected], you can email me direct and we can see what we can do to help you out.


----------



## haritz85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @haritz85 Bit lost and don't fully understand what the issue is how ever ill give it a go. You added 15ml of UV clear Blue to 1 Ltr of X1. That is a lot of dye to add to X1. You only need 1 to 5 drops of UV clear blue to 1 Ltr of water or X1, if you use "Good" Uv light it will show though fine. UV clear Blue is a very light blue effect and just shimmers under UV Light. You seemingly have added way to much into your system hence it looks UV Green. How ever if you not happy then my email address is [email protected], you can email me direct and we can see what we can do to help you out.


Thanks Michael, I already sent a PM to you.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haritz85*
> 
> Thanks Michael, I already sent a PM to you.


Sorted new fluids will be on there way to you tommorw







:


----------



## Angrybutcher

Bought some X1 Blood Red for my new build. Hopefully it turns out well







I'm also using red tubing and even a red reservoir, so I imagine it should look pretty good. I wanted to go with the Pastel, but didn't want to spend too much on additional colors to adjust the hue.


----------



## Mayhem

@Angrybutcher Excellent let me know how its goes. if you need any help just fire me a PM or on here







.


----------



## haritz85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sorted new fluids will be on there way to you tommorw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Great! Thanks again.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PunkNugget*
> 
> You want UV light? Well, I've got some for you right here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/287857-new-macmod-2013-build-lemon-lime-twist/
> 
> Scroll to the bottom to Post #7 and click on the Spoiler "Show" button to reveal all the pics.
> 
> Here's one for you though:
> 
> 
> 
> The loop is using Ice Dragon and Mayhems' combo of:
> 
> - UV Green
> - UV Laser Green
> - Dark Blue
> 
> Let me know what you guys think. To my knowledge it has the most UV lights in a single strip in any PC cased system that I've seen so far and it lights up the whole office !!! If you seen another one with more please post it (as I like to see more UV lit PC builds). Thanks...


I'm liking the UV. Nice build.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Use mayhem blueberry pastel in new wife's rig


Where does that bottom right tube lead to?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haritz85*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I bought a 15ml Uv clear blue bottle + X1 mayhems uv clear blue last week and I guess that something is wrong with that stuff.
> 
> With X1 I got some UV green effect in my phobya balancer res wich was cleaned before with di water during 1H. The perfomance hasn't change so I will keep this coolant in the loop for a while.
> 
> On the other side, I tried 15ml UV clear blue in a 1L distilled water. Same effect... Before buying this, I spent 22 euros on a Pastel UV wihte 1L botlle and the UV effect disappeared in 3 weeks...
> 
> Liquid should be the same color as the tube. FYI: 7ml dropped in to 1L and this is the awfull effect with phobya 120CM UV leds.
> 
> In white paper the color matches WT???....
> 
> So, could someone give me a logical explanation for that? I've spent +/- 40 Euros and I'm really disappointed...
> 
> (sry for my English)


You applied the dyes terribly and used led and not CCFL UV. Next time apply one drop and check it under real UV. Then see if the effect is what you want. You also applied a light color to a dark color, which is backwards.

Thankfully Mike is a straight shootin guy.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Use mayhem blueberry pastel in new wife's rig


I did something similar to a customers board for his build.





Just working on a copper effect coolant for it now....


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I'm a huge fan of copper builds. My next build is a copper build.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I'm a huge fan of copper builds. My next build is a copper build.


The tube bending thread is in my sig.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I've read plenty of those threads. This my friend is a design done by a friend of mine. Absolutely astonishing.

(Dont mean to thread jack there Michael!)









http://www.coppermod.de/

Those Germans are incredible.

Here is the gallery. http://www.coppermod.de/?lang=en&PHPSESSID=7a25a2f0af3dd35614d17b0be72c8e2a#copperHead

And here is a teaser.


Spoiler: copperHead









Edit: In fact I read your thread months ago. haha


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I've read plenty of those threads. This my friend is a design done by a friend of mine. Absolutely astonishing.
> 
> (Dont mean to thread jack there Michael!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.coppermod.de/
> 
> Those Germans are incredible.
> 
> Here is the gallery. http://www.coppermod.de/?lang=en&PHPSESSID=7a25a2f0af3dd35614d17b0be72c8e2a#copperHead
> 
> And here is a teaser.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: copperHead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: In fact I read your thread months ago. haha


Well that looks nice... I am taking in all of these Ideas for my next build


----------



## Mayhem

Lol this isn't my forum haha thread jack as much as you like. Amazing work imho. Kind of left with my mouth draping on the floor here atm







.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Guido is very talented. haha. He's an MDPC guy.


----------



## Mayhem

There is allot of talent around now a days with some good modders coming out of the wood work. My Personal skills though on the modding side have fallen to the way side due to me having no time and getting "old" pmsl.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Guido is very talented. haha. He's an MDPC guy.


Most of us are MDPC guys......
You should see the last 2 copper loops I have done.


----------



## longroadtrip

MDPC??? What is this MDPC that people speak of?









Guido is very talented....

I'm using Pastel White in my S3 build...gonna look amazing!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> *MDPC??? What is this MDPC that people speak of?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guido is very talented....
> 
> I'm using Pastel White in my S3 build...gonna look amazing!


I believe *THIS*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> *MDPC??? What is this MDPC that people speak of?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guido is very talented....
> 
> I'm using Pastel White in my S3 build...gonna look amazing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe *THIS*
Click to expand...

No,its not that...but the first rule of MDPC is we dont talk about it.....somethng sushi seems to have forgotten...


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,its not that...but the first rule of MDPC is we dont talk about it.....somethng sushi seems to have forgotten...


I haven't forgotten. I just didn't specify.


----------



## thestache

Hey guys, for my new build I'm thinking of using clear tubing with mayhems oil black coolant. Anyone got any pictures of the oil black coolant being used? Can't find any pictures of it at all.


----------



## mr sadistics

hi guys . im thinking, of using mayhems grape red + red dye.+ PrimoFlex Advanced LRT for my loop

my question , is necessary to use the syspre? that comes in the box


----------



## Mayhem

you don't need it if using advance tubing. Unless you tubing goes bad.


----------



## darwing

I saw only 1 user using the Mayhem cooling with a frozen Q, is there any other examples of what the Q looks like with this liquid?

pref blue helix and mayhems blue coolant


----------



## ea3ot

I show you guys my old tubes Primochill LRT, wahat a sheet !!! I remove theme yesterday

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/802/p1000783n.jpg/


----------



## longroadtrip

Primochill LRT was known to have plasticizer issues..hence the reason they came out with Primochill Advanced LRT...


----------



## ea3ot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Primochill LRT was known to have plasticizer issues..hence the reason they came out with Primochill Advanced LRT...


Yes. I know it.. Im using now Duralene


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> I saw only 1 user using the Mayhem cooling with a frozen Q, is there any other examples of what the Q looks like with this liquid?
> 
> pref blue helix and mayhems blue coolant


The Helix reservoirs don't normally look good with dye unless it's a light copy red dye, ie Ocean color thing.... Haha.

The reactor core res does work better btw.


----------



## asakurahao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> I was playing with some Dye last night and i think I end up making some nice and weird color at the same time.
> 
> *:: OceanGreen ::* One of my favorite
> 250ml Dist water
> *30 drops C/B*
> 1 drop of Blue
> 1 drop of Orange
> 
> 
> 
> hope you guys like it.


would you / someone pls tell me what C/B mean? Thank you!


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asakurahao*
> 
> would you / someone pls tell me what C/B mean? Thank you!


I'm assuming uv clear blue.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Time to ditch plasticizing tube and get proper tube....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/0_20


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asakurahao*
> 
> would you / someone pls tell me what C/B mean? Thank you!


The same colour can be done with ocean blue + UVCB (UV Clear Blue)


----------



## mironccr345

Now that looks good.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Where does that bottom right tube lead to?


its the drain port
its a simple flex tube with a QDC, I hid it behind the rad


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I did something similar to a customers board for his build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just working on a copper effect coolant for it now....


WOW that's a real awesome job wow


----------



## snef

thanks to everyone

a couple of finished pics

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0022_zps6829b6f2.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0013_zpsf55cd08b.jpg.html


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> thanks to everyone
> 
> a couple of finished pics
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0022_zps6829b6f2.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0013_zpsf55cd08b.jpg.html


I think I speak for everyone here when I say MORE PICS AND BUILD LOG!!! Video if possible!


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> thanks to everyone
> 
> a couple of finished pics
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0022_zps6829b6f2.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0013_zpsf55cd08b.jpg.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> I think I speak for everyone here when I say MORE PICS AND BUILD LOG!!! Video if possible!


Nice job there, That's the way to paint a motherboard shroud.


----------



## snef

Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> I think I speak for everyone here when I say MORE PICS AND BUILD LOG!!! Video if possible!


thanks and I have a build log
http://www.overclock.net/t/1388341/build-log-snefs-icy-blue-angel#post_19896549

my both build logs are in my signature

sorry for Video, maybe to shy to be in a video


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Wow! It's so clean! I could only hope to have that nice of a looking system when im done. :d


----------



## ea3ot

To many drops of Mayehms Dye can dye de tubes also ?? What will be the normal quantity of drops per liter?? I have putt 6 drops per liter in my new loop with the Deep Blue and I guess need a little bit more but Iam afraid to dye the tubes or other components in the loop.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Any dye will stain any tubing. (Except maybe acrylic?) Just keep adding drops until you get the effect you want. Then if you change the loop, just flush put all components.


----------



## ea3ot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Any dye will stain any tubing. (Except maybe acrylic?) Just keep adding drops until you get the effect you want. Then if you change the loop, just flush put all components.


The thing is I have cleaned and changed my old Primochill LRT tubes to the very brilliant and transparent Duralene. Two day ago I filled the new loop whit the Deep Blue ( 6 drops/ liter) and the blue was nice,, but in two days it seems the color is getting more clear,and clear. and still is blue but by far less strong .. and I dont know why.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Probably because it's partly soaking into the tube and partly spreading across the loop. Did you add it to the reservoir or pre-mix it? If the former than its just spreading evenly across the loop. It's being diluted another words so add more.


----------



## ea3ot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Probably because it's partly soaking into the tube and partly spreading across the loop. Did you add it to the reservoir or pre-mix it? If the former than its just spreading evenly across the loop. It's being diluted another words so add more.


I premixed the Dye aoutside the loop and filled.. I have put 3 drops more and it,s okay now.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Well there we go then.


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thestache*
> 
> Hey guys, for my new build I'm thinking of using clear tubing with mayhems oil black coolant. Anyone got any pictures of the oil black coolant being used? Can't find any pictures of it at all.


Timetolivecstoms orca build used the oil black coolant (srry no link, can't get it while I'm on my phone)


----------



## Mayhem




----------



## aksdad

Can anyone post a picture of the Mayhem Deep Red dye in action? And how many uses does the 15ml bottle last?


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Depends how strong you want the effect, and how much coolant you need.
I believe this is the Deep Red:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Never knew why pe0ple used such big tubing with small fittings.


----------



## aksdad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Never knew why pe0ple used such big tubing with small fittings.


Not sure but I learnt this in Physics last year :
A1xV1 = A2xV2
Where A is the area of cross section and V is the velocity of the liquid.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Copper or white coolant?

I think white.....


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Copper or white coolant?
> 
> I think white.....


Didn't know copper and white went so well together until this build. Looking good B-neg.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I think white too.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Copper or white coolant?
> 
> I think white.....


Definitely white! Looking good BTW


----------



## NinjaSushi2

L00kin g00d! I think white.


----------



## _REAPER_

White or Black for contrast


----------



## Lynkdev

Just ordered some Mayhems UV clear blue concentrate, do i need a separate dye for this or only if i want it darker? Will a reg UV CCFL make it look purple or will i need a UV Blue CCFL?

or this

Lamptron Inverterless Cathode Spectral Bar - UV


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Youll want a norm CCFL.


----------



## Mayhem

Just normal CCFL will do, lamptron CCFL are rubbish btw. i had a few of them and thew them in the bin.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I'll pay for the shipping if you still have them. Haha. By bin I guess you Brits mean trash. We sure do have some different slang for the same general language. Heh.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Copper or white coolant?
> 
> I think white.....


I think if you want the coolant as a highlight go the copper. If you do not want it as a highlight go the white.

Because looking inside the case, copper is used as a standout point, where white is a major color. IMO

OR Dual loop with both.


----------



## Lynkdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just normal CCFL will do, lamptron CCFL are rubbish btw. i had a few of them and thew them in the bin.


Ok so UV isn't necessarily needed? just a blue CCFL?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

No you need normal uv. Blue uv will give it an off color. it won't show the dye in true forum more or less.


----------



## Lynkdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> No you need normal uv. Blue uv will give it an off color. it won't show the dye in true forum more or less.


Kewl thanks!


----------



## rebelextrm02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Any idea what size tubing and fittings those are?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lynkdev*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> No you need normal uv. Blue uv will give it an off color. it won't show the dye in true forum more or less.
> 
> 
> 
> Kewl thanks!
Click to expand...

np np







ty!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rebelextrm02*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea what size tubing and fittings those are?
Click to expand...

Er.. it's very messy in the back haha. Maybe half inch? But it looks DAMN nice up front. Like some women.. huhuhuhehehehuhuhhehheh.. jk


----------



## EssArTee4

Question: On Mayhems site it states "Do not use Mayhems Pastel with Primochill tubing".

Does this apply to the newer PrimoFlex Advanced LRT ?


----------



## Mayhem

No it doesn't. The site is being revamped and the correct information will be put there. That info is quite misleading and primochill have done a very good job on there new tubing.


----------



## EssArTee4

Ok good, already place the order and was like oops








Is the Pastels ok for everyday use? I know the aurora is show only.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EssArTee4*
> 
> Ok good, already place the order and was like oops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the Pastels ok for everyday use? I know the aurora is show only.


I use Primochill Advanced LRT with pastel coolant on a 24/7 rig and so far it's doing very fine!


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh pastel is 24/7 use upto 3 years if your lucky.


----------



## EssArTee4

Does anyone run the Pastel Fluid in white colored tubing? That way no yellowing/dulling of tubing yet still white in the Res and Blocks. Just an idea,.


----------



## rebelextrm02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I use Primochill Advanced LRT with pastel coolant on a 24/7 rig and so far it's doing very fine!


How many weeks have you ran it and how does the tubing look? Any discoloration or plasticizer hazing?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rebelextrm02*
> 
> How many weeks have you ran it and how does the tubing look? Any discoloration or plasticizer hazing?


It's running since the end of march and tubing is like the first day....no discoloration nor platicizer issue.

I have Primochill LRT none Advanced in my other rig with EK Coolant and the tubing is plasticize as hell I will have a field day cleaning everything when I will redo the rig in a few weeks









You can be sure that I will go with Advanced LRT in the other rig and certainly with Mayhems too


----------



## EssArTee4

My Pastel Ice White and Primochill Advanced LRT has shipped. Pretty excited, almost have everything i need for my first loop







!!!


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EssArTee4*
> 
> My Pastel Ice White and Primochill Advanced LRT has shipped. Pretty excited, almost have everything i need for my first loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!!


Welcome to the wonderful world of water cooling and being skint for the rest of you life







..


----------



## Blackops_2

So if I wanted use deep red or some form of dark red through my ek blocks while using andvanced LRT. what could I use for long term say a year without changing or build up?


----------



## EssArTee4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Welcome to the wonderful world of water cooling and being skint for the rest of you life
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..


Haha so true








Very excited to try your product.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So Mick. We speak again... o.0? jk. Anyways I wanted to bug you again on that toxic waste, biohazard green color. (Much as I did in months past.)

Here is a pic Alex from FrozenQ sent me when he was leak testing my res.


Spoiler: FrozenQ





And two pics I took myself.






Also the some pictures of what my custom reservoir looks like. Now that res will be going into a build that looks like this:


Spoiler: MUST CONVINCE MICK!!!




















Originally you said make a build log, which it is coming soon, but I am still finishing finals. (They end on Monday and then I can start my mods and build log officially.) I say and show all this to the end effect that I need a dye that will compliment such a mod. Does anyone here or Mick for that matter how any ideas to a dye that will give it a post-apocalyptic meltdown glow? I've spent a lot of time and money so far with this computer and I refuse to put anything less than I consider the best in it. MDPC sleeving, intel cpu, seasonic PSU, custom frozenq res, custom switch 810 parts, titanium hd x-fi sound card, etc. How could one think to put anything besides Mayhems into their PC after going all out!?









So yeah Mick/Mike/Michael or whatever you prefer. (Muricans say Mike and Brits say Mick I found out! {never knew that}) SO BUDDY! You helped me with that Business project last semester/year. WILL YOU HELP ME AGAIN!?!?!?!?


----------



## Nuwidol

Hi,

My system is currently using X1 UV Blood Red but I've just ordered some more bits & I'm going to be re doing my loop tomorrow (3rd time in as many weeks!). I won't have enough red to re do it with that so I've ordered some X1 UV Oil Black. Will I have to flush the system fully between fluids or do you think I could get away with draining out the red & just going straight in with the black. I'm going to be replacing the res & adding an extra 1, maybe 2 rads so the amount of left over red will be minimal really...


----------



## Mayhem

Its always best to flush the system out correctly when changing any fluids over.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> So Mick. We speak again... o.0? jk. Anyways I wanted to bug you again on that toxic waste, biohazard green color. (Much as I did in months past.)
> 
> Here is a pic Alex from FrozenQ sent me when he was leak testing my res.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: FrozenQ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And two pics I took myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the some pictures of what my custom reservoir looks like. Now that res will be going into a build that looks like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: MUST CONVINCE MICK!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally you said make a build log, which it is coming soon, but I am still finishing finals. (They end on Monday and then I can start my mods and build log officially.) I say and show all this to the end effect that I need a dye that will compliment such a mod. Does anyone here or Mick for that matter how any ideas to a dye that will give it a post-apocalyptic meltdown glow? I've spent a lot of time and money so far with this computer and I refuse to put anything less than I consider the best in it. MDPC sleeving, intel cpu, seasonic PSU, custom frozenq res, custom switch 810 parts, titanium hd x-fi sound card, etc. How could one think to put anything besides Mayhems into their PC after going all out!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah Mick/Mike/Michael or whatever you prefer. (Muricans say Mike and Brits say Mick I found out! {never knew that}) SO BUDDY! You helped me with that Business project last semester/year. WILL YOU HELP ME AGAIN!?!?!?!?


Check your PM.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Done and done. It's like waking up to an unexpected Christmas when Mike PMs you.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Mickkk *whines* you never got around to trying to make a seafoam-green color out of pastels.
I haven't had time myself to mess with my loop thanks to classes, but finals end in a week. bahahah.

Hoping to get my 7970 under water, and may modify the pastels colors at the same time.. hmm


----------



## Lutfij

Ninjasushi - great looking res - made by FrozenQ?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Yeah Alex from frozen Q made it a few months back. He ended up scrapping one because the machine tore the threads up at one point. It's actually a polyurethane flask made for scientific research. I gave him the idea, he found the flask and fastened a base plate to it. Then I requested a way to support it so that it would look as though it hung in mid air. (gave a few ideas how) Ended up doing a C clamp.

As for the biohazard symbol, I plan to paint it black so it'll silhouette better.


----------



## soulreaper05

I bought two 250 ml bottles of concentrated x1 uv red coolant, I diluted it as directed, and put it in my loop. The uv red does not glow with my two 12" uv cold cathodes nor with the uv LEDs in my res. the bottle says uv red, so I didn't accidentally order the wrong stuff, I am at a complete loss. I even tried making smaller amounts in different concentrations to hold in front of my lights, nothing helped.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hmm. That is odd indeed. By any chance dud you try it in a glass?


----------



## soulreaper05

Yes, put it in a 40ml screw top vial.

Edit: pic of vial with coolant and pH.


----------



## soulreaper05

I was kind of wondering if another color would go with my sig rig other than red. I like keeping with the rog theme, but it seems no one has a red that really shows up bright under uv. I have had blue and green before as you will see in my pics, but I redesigned the whole setup. Any suggestions other than colored tubing with DI water are welcome. Thanks!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Le derp. I meant that res is a 250ml reservoir.


----------



## Mayhem

Some thing important has happened that i need to deal with i wont be able to answer any emails to and from mayhems nor my privet email address for the next few days. please direct any enquirers to [email protected] thank you.

@soulreaper05 Contact [email protected] direct with you issue and they will send you out a Dye that will give you back the UV effect. its been noted a few UV bottles went out with out the UV being added. My mistake when mixing.


----------



## soulreaper05

Thank you!!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Sorry to hear that Mick.


----------



## Pole04

Quick mixing questions for you guys. Can I just drop the X-1 Coolant and then the dye into the reservoir to mix them, or should I premix them with my distilled water?

May sound like a dumb question, but I was just wondering.


----------



## silent54

You'll need to pre-mix the coolant prior to adding to loop. You can then add the dye as needed prior to adding the coolant to the loop or after. Make sure your loop components are clean before adding the coolant as I assume the X-1 coolant will react to a bad pH imbalance as the pastels do. Meaning, the coolant will change colors because of the imbalance. Thought my loop was clean but found the pH level was not right and my Pastel Gig Orange changed to brown in a matter of days. Just a FYI.


----------



## golfergolfer

Hi Everyone,

I am going to be flushing out my entire loop and I was just wonder what is the best way to do it? I have heard of boiling water?

I will also need to flush out my pump how shall I do this? What I was thinking of doing was:
running some warm tap through the entire loop (including pump) just to rinse it out
Then take some hot water through the rads then a rinse with distilled everywhere?

Thanks


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> I am going to be flushing out my entire loop and I was just wonder what is the best way to do it? I have heard of boiling water?
> 
> I will also need to flush out my pump how shall I do this? What I was thinking of doing was:
> running some warm tap through the entire loop (including pump) just to rinse it out
> Then take some hot water through the rads then a rinse with distilled everywhere?
> 
> Thanks


Everyone has their methods.
Do a rinse with vinegar and water first, then a boiling water rinse, then distilled.
^That's my favourite way. Pump shouldn't really need to be cleaned, but you can just make a temporary loop, and run water through that.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I personally stay away from using boiling or even hot water. I also think using vinegar is trouble, especially if you have nickel in the loop.

I use a very safe method of tap water washing through the parts, in both directions. Then use distilled water in the loop for leak checking. Empty then re check with distilled water.

Acids and or high temps in loops I think should be avoided when possible.


----------



## silent54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> I am going to be flushing out my entire loop and I was just wonder what is the best way to do it? I have heard of boiling water?
> 
> I will also need to flush out my pump how shall I do this? What I was thinking of doing was:
> running some warm tap through the entire loop (including pump) just to rinse it out
> Then take some hot water through the rads then a rinse with distilled everywhere?
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALMOSTunseen*
> 
> Everyone has their methods.
> Do a rinse with vinegar and water first, then a boiling water rinse, then distilled.
> ^That's my favourite way. Pump shouldn't really need to be cleaned, but you can just make a temporary loop, and run water through that.


Another way would be to flush/clean your entire loop with distilled water and bicarb, about 1 tbsp bicarb per liter. I recently did that as my first attempted with a Pastel coolant went bad because of pH imbalance. I cleaned each component individually than the loop as a whole to include pumps. After the flush, I rinsed with distilled.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALMOSTunseen*
> 
> Everyone has their methods.
> Do a rinse with vinegar and water first, then a boiling water rinse, then distilled.
> ^That's my favourite way. Pump shouldn't really need to be cleaned, but you can just make a temporary loop, and run water through that.


hmm I have heard this before but look below to what I have also heard
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I personally stay away from using boiling or even hot water. I also think using vinegar is trouble, especially if you have nickel in the loop.
> 
> I use a very safe method of tap water washing through the parts, in both directions. Then use distilled water in the loop for leak checking. Empty then re check with distilled water.
> 
> Acids and or high temps in loops I think should be avoided when possible.


I have heard this about vinegar being trouble and especially when it is nickel being used not sure if it is true but I will stay away from that. So far I am thinking of just using some tap water than distilled to flush it all out after wards. By the sounds of this do you do it when your loop is all put together? or before that? I was planning on just running water through all my new blocks, old rad, new rad, and pump to clean them out and then before I put them into the rig flush it all out with some distilled again. Sound about right? (there is no need to wash new tubing is there?)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silent54*
> 
> Another way would be to flush/clean your entire loop with distilled water and bicarb, about 1 tbsp bicarb per liter. I recently did that as my first attempted with a Pastel coolant went bad because of pH imbalance. I cleaned each component individually than the loop as a whole to include pumps. After the flush, I rinsed with distilled.


I have also heard of this and I will be using Pastel in my rig. I havent heard it much though so I am kindof skeptical :/ bicarb is just baking soda right?

Thanks for all the answers! It really is helpful


----------



## heisalmostokay

Just cleen the pump like amostunseen said!!!!!!!!! everyone has their own mehtods but I find that its the easiest method.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> hmm I have heard this before but look below to what I have also heard
> 
> 
> 
> I have heard this about vinegar being trouble and especially when it is nickel being used not sure if it is true but I will stay away from that. So far I am thinking of just using some tap water than distilled to flush it all out after wards. By the sounds of this do you do it when your loop is all put together? or before that? I was planning on just running water through all my new blocks, old rad, new rad, and pump to clean them out and then before I put them into the rig flush it all out with some distilled again. Sound about right? (there is no need to wash new tubing is there?)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I have also heard of this and I will be using Pastel in my rig. I havent heard it much though so I am kindof skeptical :/ bicarb is just baking soda right?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for all the answers! It really is helpful
Click to expand...

I have personally done it with Nickel plating and found out the hard way












Sorry should of been a bit clearer, I flush my parts by them selves with full pressure cold mains water, in both directions. Once flushed with tap water, I assemble the loop, then run and flush through distilled water twice, leaving it in for about six hours of running at a time (ie. whilst leak checking)









I do this with every part new or old. Don't want any parts of the old coolant to be left over


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Anyone heard from Mick yet? I am hoping whatever he has going on turned out to be not that serious. It's never fun when people you know are going through a crappy time.


----------



## McDoney

Hey,

I got a bit of Pastel Ice White left and bought Ice Dragon Cooling. Can I mix both fluids?
Thanx.


----------



## _REAPER_

I think they are one in the same not 100% sure though


----------



## hamed599

hi. I want to use the Mayhems colors for Color up coolant . is This product suitable for all block and pumps?Is it deposited? my cpu block is xspc raystorm and vga block is Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ 79X0 and pump is swiftech...


----------



## PCModderMike

Ice Dragon with Mayhems dye. Win.


----------



## hamed599

wooow I iove this color .which product is this color?link? thank you


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> wooow I iove this color .which product is this color?link? thank you


The base is Ice Dragon coolant.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15033/ex-liq-203/Ice_Dragon_Cooling_Nanofluid_Coolant_White_Color_-_32oz.html?tl=g30c337s1600

The color was achieved using Mayhems dye, dark blue was the color specifically.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18041/ex-liq-358/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Dark_Blue.html?tl=g30c337s1809


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Ice Dragon with Mayhems dye. Win.


Yep that's my mike









Couldn't you achieve this with pastel white and X1 or another blue color. I'm kind of interested in it for my new loop. I also noticed Miron using the same fittings as you do, which are those







? Looks beast man!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Yep that's my mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Couldn't you achieve this with pastel white and X1 or another blue color. I'm kind of interested in it for my new loop. I also noticed Miron using the same fittings as you do, which are those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? Looks beast man!










That's me.

Yea I'm sure you could have achieved the same color using Mayhems pastel white and the same dye...I've just used Ice Dragon in the past so stuck with it, call me stubborn.








Although I think as it was said a few posts back, Ice Dragon and the ice white pastel are one in the same IIRC.
I can double check, but I highly doubt mironccr is using the same fittings. He might be using some black BP barbs I gave him...but the angles are another brand entirely.
Thanks for the compliment!


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Yeah, his builds are about the inverse of yours. Usually you have the same brand of gear but you tend to make everything light and white while he tends to make things dark and black









But yeah that's what I meant. So they're BP fittings, have to find them


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> The base is Ice Dragon coolant.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15033/ex-liq-203/Ice_Dragon_Cooling_Nanofluid_Coolant_White_Color_-_32oz.html?tl=g30c337s1600
> 
> The color was achieved using Mayhems dye, dark blue was the color specifically.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18041/ex-liq-358/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Dark_Blue.html?tl=g30c337s1809


Did not know you could mix the two, might try the same with some orange dye...have two bottles of Ice Dragon left over from rev.1 of my TJ build







+rep


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Yeah, his builds are about the inverse of yours. Usually you have the same brand of gear but you tend to make everything light and white while he tends to make things dark and black
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah that's what I meant. So they're BP fittings, have to find them


Ah yes, that's my bud.








Where do you buy your water cooling gear from there? The BP stuff is very popular and you should be able to find it easily.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Did not know you could mix the two, might try the same with some orange dye...have two bottles of Ice Dragon left over from rev.1 of my TJ build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep


Mmmm sounds like that would look very nice. Thanks.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Some local shop in Rotterdam named Highflow or I get bulk stuff from a contact for a friendlier price (complete loops).


----------



## PCModderMike

Does high shipping costs make places like FCPU and PPCS out of the question?


----------



## Blackops_2

IIRC the pastel coolant was made in collaboration with Ice Dragons Nanofluid. Which i assume the pastels are just that Ice Dragon + Dye. I imagine it's a different in some way but that was the gist i got.

Keep the Pastel Pics coming guys


----------



## _REAPER_

I am still trying to decide White or Black for my next build....


----------



## Mayhem

IDC is a highly saturated, extremely effective nano fluid. Mayhems Pastel is a weaker version in looks how ever it is more environmentally friendly and easier to colour. Mayhems Pastel range was developed mainly for looks.

Hope this helps.

Mick


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am still trying to decide White or Black for my next build....


Fluid wise? I really like Ice white with a black themed motherboard or surrounding.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> IDC is a highly saturated, extremely effective nano fluid. Mayhems Pastel is a weaker version in looks how ever it is more environmentally friendly and easier to colour. Mayhems Pastel range was developed mainly for looks.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Mick


Thanks for the explanation Mick


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> IDC is a highly saturated, extremely effective nano fluid. Mayhems Pastel is a weaker version in looks how ever it is more environmentally friendly and *easier to colour*. Mayhems Pastel range was developed mainly for looks.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Mick


Definitely have experienced that. Ice Dragon takes a lot of dye to get it to color like you want.


----------



## mironccr345

^ That's the truth. Used two small dye bottles to get the color I wanted.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ^ That's the truth. Used two small dye bottles to get the color I wanted.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My pastel blue buddy.


----------



## Mast3rRoot

Ok, I am Looking to make a build based around a dark purple color, I probably wont be able to afford it all until later in the summer, but I am in the planning stage.

I would love to use Mayhems Pastels for it, as I have had a great experience with the mint pastel.









The exact purple that I would like to create would be like this: http://lutro0-customs.com/products/550-paracord-acid-purple-25-feet

I am thinking of combining red and blue, but the blue seems kinda bright. Any ideas on how I could really achieve this purple color? If it is at all possible with pastels?

Thanks


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Something around this colour?

This is around a
R:88
G:13
B:102
Colour code:580D66
Anything is possible with mayhems, he'll make something up for you.
I would recommend starting with Pastel Red, and then keep adding blue dye until you get a nice colour. Get some deep red dye just in case you need it darker. Though blue dye will make it darker then red dye.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I want a mint green with pastel and uv.


----------



## wermad

Are there any uv pastels?

Need to take some pics of my Emerald green in my FrozenQ bay res. And the half a gallon of liquid I have left from my previous monster build.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Ooh emerald uv green...

Edit:

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/x1-uv-emerald-green-1ltr.html


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Are there any uv pastels?
> 
> Need to take some pics of my Emerald green in my FrozenQ bay res. And the half a gallon of liquid I have left from my previous monster build.


UV white and maybe Blue i think? I know there is UV white which you could add dye to or reverse. You could get mint green and add UV green to it.

I want to say this is a mixture of UV green and Pastel Mint





Here's a video of someone making UV blue pastel


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Ooh emerald uv green...
> 
> Edit:
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/x1-uv-emerald-green-1ltr.html


I have the regular Emerald Green. Only thing that has a uv light in my build is the bay res for the fluorescent helix'.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> UV white and maybe Blue i think? I know there is UV white which you could add dye to or reverse. You could get mint green and add UV green to it.
> 
> I want to say this is a mixture of UV green and Pastel Mint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a video of someone making UV blue pastel


Nice









Still not ready to commit to pastel since I have a purrtty helix bay res and the pastel will conceal it.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mast3rRoot*
> 
> Ok, I am Looking to make a build based around a dark purple color, I probably wont be able to afford it all until later in the summer, but I am in the planning stage.
> 
> I would love to use Mayhems Pastels for it, as I have had a great experience with the mint pastel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The exact purple that I would like to create would be like this: http://lutro0-customs.com/products/550-paracord-acid-purple-25-feet
> 
> I am thinking of combining red and blue, but the blue seems kinda bright. Any ideas on how I could really achieve this purple color? If it is at all possible with pastels?
> 
> Thanks


1 Ltr of Pastel + 5 to 8ml of purple dye should do that trick. how ever if you after it darker just add more purple dye.


----------



## PandaSPUR

Glad to see you back, everything ok?

And quick, probably dumb, question: how much UV dye would I need to add to pastels to make it UV, if at all possible?
Since I'm thinking of adding some blue to my mint green, I was thinking of playing with UV Clear/Blue instead (I'm aware that its clear in normal light and mint green will stay mostly mint green under normal light)


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PandaSPUR*
> 
> Glad to see you back, everything ok?
> 
> And quick, probably dumb, question: how much UV dye would I need to add to pastels to make it UV, if at all possible?
> Since I'm thinking of adding some blue to my mint green, I was thinking of playing with UV Clear/Blue instead (I'm aware that its clear in normal light and mint green will stay mostly mint green under normal light)


Adding UV clear to mind green wont make much of a differences as green is a mix of yellow and blue so adding UV clear Blue will only serve to intensify the green aspect under the UV light.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So what happens if we mix Mayhems oil black with say Mayhem's pastel sunset yellow? Or pastel black and pastel yellow? Will it mix and make a funky color or will it stay separate?


----------



## Mayhem

Oil black (pastel Black is close to oil black) is actually a mix up of Purple, Red and yellow. So adding yellow to it will give it a very greenish tinge and may turn a much darker green colour.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Here's some hot and juicy Mint Green action


----------



## Mast3rRoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 1 Ltr of Pastel + 5 to 8ml of purple dye should do that trick. how ever if you after it darker just add more purple dye.


Just to confirm, it is 1 Ltr of Red Pastel, and about 8 mL of mayhems purple dye?
Or did you do it with 1 Ltr of Blue Pastel?

Thanks a lot!







when I get to building it, I will probably be doing a build log on OCN, and I will definitely post some nice pictures here!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oil black (pastel Black is close to oil black) is actually a mix up of Purple, Red and yellow. So adding yellow to it will give it a very greenish tinge and may turn a much darker green colour.


Ah thanks. I don't know my colors very well. hahaha Let me know if you ever make a rainbow dye.









(The damn color button doesn't work.)

*Mick's Rainbow Dye!*


Spoiler: Intense Rainbowness!


----------



## TheBlademaster01

How would one make some kind of silver ish coolant?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> How would one make some kind of silver ish coolant?


For short term use there is Mayhems *Supernova Silver*.

But they are working on a long term Aurora mix


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> For short term use there is Mayhems *Supernova Silver*.
> 
> But they are working on a long term Aurora mix


Those are only for picture use. Mick doesn't advise using them as actual water coolant just yet.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> For short term use there is Mayhems *Supernova Silver*.
> 
> But they are working on a long term Aurora mix


Oooo a long term aurora mix would be epic.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Certainly. Any word on when it will be out. Thanks to all that helped btw


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Ah thanks. I don't know my colors very well. hahaha Let me know if you ever make a rainbow dye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (The damn color button doesn't work.)
> 
> *Mick's Rainbow Dye!*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Intense Rainbowness!


Whoa, that looks Trippy.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

That's because I googled trippy rainbow pictures. hahaha


----------



## Mayhem

erm i cannot say much just yet how ever there is alot going on here.


----------



## Mast3rRoot

So, I was doing a bit more research, and I found on performance PCs, there is a purple raspberry pastel out there. do you think that this will turn out well? http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=34084

And just add some purple dye if it is not dark enough? Has anyone played around with this purple?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mast3rRoot*
> 
> So, I was doing a bit more research, and I found on performance PCs, there is a purple raspberry pastel out there. do you think that this will turn out well? http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=34084
> 
> And just add some purple dye if it is not dark enough? Has anyone played around with this purple?


I think the idea of using white pastel and adding purple dye will look way better


----------



## Buehlar

Hello everyone








I'm joining the club








I'm using mayhems blue dye and distilled water
approx. 1.5 liters of water
Currently 15 drops of dye
I'm trying to get the color in the tubing the same color as the resivoir.
Should I just keep adding more dye or is this possible?


----------



## jiJa

reminds me on x-files







but sweet



here you can see pastel ice white on action, iam just wondering why my white leds are catched the blue way.
however still enough to do, like cablemanagement on the bottom.
sry for the bad picturequality just got my iphone cam


----------



## Mayhem

Oooooh progress ...... I now have access to a new toy, BTW this is the only one in the world and we are the "ONLY" company who has access to it







within the liquid cooling world.



And no we don't offer licences out .... were independent.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I can't really see what it is honestly.

Btw Mick what would be the best way to get a silverish colored coolant for long term use?


----------



## jwl24

Hey guys looking for some assistance here if anyone cares to help. I recently have built my first rig, and can't exactly get the look I've been wanting. I'd like to state that I'm going after the red/black theme. And I started off first with red tubing, and primochills blood red tubing, I wasn't very satisfied, and up until now I have switched to clear tubing.. and I'm trying to find what would be the best coolant/color to fit for this theme? I have a few pictures of what I'm after, and I heard some great things about mayhem's coolant, maybe someone here can help out. I don't know if to go with UV, or a standard color coolant. Guess that's why I'm here asking for some help.

This is the picture of what it looked like before switching out the fans and the clear tubing. I was very upset with these fans as they were displayed differently when ordering them, and gave me no effect desired. I also wasn't very happy with the look of the red tubing either, I think I can get a better set-up with clear tubing and some awesome coolant.



Now here's a picture of something I was trying to go after.. maybe it can help with you guys recommending me on what I could do.



I already got those fans basically the cool master red led ones give off the same effect, and I know this builds using red tubes, but I believe I can get relatively a similar looking build with clear tubes and a great coolant.

With that being said, I have UV lights, white cathodes, everything needed, I just don't know if I should go with a UV coolant or non-uv, as I don't want the red to be pink once it goes UV.

Look for the best advice, thanks.


----------



## Mayhem

post a pic of the perfect red you are after ..


----------



## jwl24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> post a pic of the perfect red you are after ..


Looking for the red of either those tubes or liquid in that second picture. Where it really "pops" and makes the tubes/reservoir stand out.


----------



## Mayhem

The second pic is a lighting effect + dyes. hes using red led lights + tube + light.

If you after the decent red then look though this post you'll see some people using Red dye or Pastel red , or both pastel red + red dye.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Awesome new toy Mick! So what is it?


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Awesome new toy Mick! So what is it?


Omg its its


----------



## Pavo

Dude you dyed your workshop green?

That's dedication!


----------



## Mayhem

lol its not our toy it our partners toy we just have access to it







. BTW the picture is of a high end nano 2 way milling system and is the only one in the world. it can mill from 5nm to 110nm any hard substances such as gold, silverand various other products.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

But Mick, how would I make silverish coolant?


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> But Mick, how would I make silverish coolant?


Chuck some silver into that machine he's got?


----------



## phaseshift

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally was able to achieve the Blood Red color I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully this time it was stay like this.


Which dye did you use and how many drops?

Looking to get this effect



Which dye do you guys think I should use?


----------



## haritz85

Pastel Ice white + primochill LRT advance


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys I'm looking for a nice ROG red for 24/7 use. I have never used dyes or anything like that before, but I will be running it through some acrylic tubing







What would you guys recommend?


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phaseshift*
> 
> Which dye did you use and how many drops?
> 
> Looking to get this effect
> 
> 
> 
> Which dye do you guys think I should use?


Mayhem's Red Dye, IDK how many drops, I just kept adding until I got the color I wanted.


----------



## haritz85

Mayhems pastel Ice White + Laser green UV


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haritz85*
> 
> Mayhems pastel Ice White + Laser green UV


That looks nice


----------



## Mayhem

nice how much did you use. (dye)


----------



## haritz85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> nice how much did you use. (dye)


10 drops for 1L of Pastel Ice White.


----------



## Pole04

Quick question...

I have added Mayhem's Deep Red to my loop. It took quite a bit to get the color to the desired "richness" and the liquid in my reservoir is quite a bit darker than in the tubing. I assume that is normal though.

My question is this: The liquid in the tubing has gotten quite a bit lighter over the last week and a half since I added it. The reservoir is still just as dark though. Is this normal? Should I add more dye to get the color in the tubing back to the same darkness?


----------



## Mayhem

what tubing are you using.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haritz85*
> 
> Mayhems pastel Ice White + Laser green UV
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now that looks good!


----------



## jd2195

Just ordered coolant for my first ever water cooled build and of course I went with mayhems







. I got X1 UV Blue concentrate will post pics once it arrives.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haritz85*
> 
> Mayhems pastel Ice White + Laser green UV
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great looking results


----------



## haritz85

Thanks guys and thanks Mick


----------



## Mayhem

Oky .. a new fluid will be going out to testers early next week (trusted people). We have nick named the fluids "Project Decimation". Ill post more information once the testers have had it in there hands a few weeks.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

I've been a distilled + biocide + kill coil for years now but I think I'm finally ready to take the plunge and go for Mayhem's Pastel Ice White. So to transition from distilled water to the pastel ice white, do I have to make sure my loop is bone dry or can there be trace amounts of water? I've got a drain at the bottom of my loop but naturally, that wont drain out ALL of the water. How does pastel, say 2 liters of pastel ice white behave when mixed with 1 cup of water?

Will it dilute out the coolant and make it look funky?


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky .. a new fluid will be going out to testers early next week (trusted people). We have nick named the fluids "Project Decimation". Ill post more information once the testers have had it in there hands a few weeks.


I suppose it will decimate all other fluids? (sure you might have put some acid in it to eat away any remains of other coolants







)


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> I've been a distilled + biocide + kill coil for years now but I think I'm finally ready to take the plunge and go for Mayhem's Pastel Ice White. So to transition from distilled water to the pastel ice white, do I have to make sure my loop is bone dry or can there be trace amounts of water? I've got a drain at the bottom of my loop but naturally, that wont drain out ALL of the water. How does pastel, say 2 liters of pastel ice white behave when mixed with 1 cup of water?
> 
> Will it dilute out the coolant and make it look funky?


@Syan48306 you can dilute pastel white a small amount extra , it wont harm the liquid. How ever if you been running a biocide i really do recommend you flush you system with at least DI water so that there is no acid left in the system. Pastel is very much dependent on a balanced PH system.


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> what tubing are you using.


I am using PrimoChill Advanced LRT.

Edit: Some more info. I used the XT coolant and distilled water. The whole system holds around 3 liters of water and like I said the reservoir looks beautiful, but the water in the tubing took quite a while to get to the right deep red color, and it appears to be lighter now after running it for a week and a half. I don't have any other sensors but, my CPU temps are in the 30's.


----------



## Mayhem

this should just be settling then. XT1 has PH balancers in the system so the "red" dye should not be effected. It will calm down but if there is any change over the next few weeks let us know and we will look further into it.


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> this should just be settling then. XT1 has PH balancers in the system so the "red" dye should not be effected. It will calm down but if there is any change over the next few weeks let us know and we will look further into it.


Thanks for the quick reply. I will add some more dye to the system and get it back to the correct color this evening. I will let you know if it continues.


----------



## liberato87

About clouding in tubing.

1 month ago I emptied my water cooling setup because of cluoding and I wanted to clean the tubes.
I cleaned all tubes with a detergent for dishes and with a small brush (I made that before using the tubes , but clouding appeared)

I cleaned one piece of tube with a detergent degreaser (small amount).

Now a month passed and I have clouding that make the pastel Change color (it is more pink than red) but not in that tube!


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Syan48306 you can dilute pastel white a small amount extra , it wont harm the liquid. How ever if you been running a biocide i really do recommend you flush you system with at least DI water so that there is no acid left in the system. Pastel is very much dependent on a balanced PH system.


1 Drop of dead water per liter of distilled water and the 1 drop is only 5% copper II sulfate. Is a full flush really necessary or is a partial drain and and refill of distilled water + coolant "good enough"

How does pastel coolants behave in imbalanced PH conditions and or biocide?

EDIT: I'm thinking about draining about 1 of the 2 liters and then adding just 500ml concentrate ice white and topping it off with distilled water.


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel can fade and drop out with bad PH liquids. This is the same with a lot of nano fluids.


----------



## Mayhem

For any one interested. There was a batch of liquids ive messed up. So we have changed it to X1 + emerald green and made it UV active. Now the problem is we do not sell this product at all.. so instead of binning it as its a perfectly good fluid were giving it away.

The Fluid is X1 UV Emerald Green 250ml Concentrate

To get it, leave me a message here and ill PM the details across how to get you hands on it.

*YOU WILL HAVE TO PAY POST AND PACKING ONLY.*

The fluid, bottle, child safety cap, sticker, work done on it is all free ...

250ml concentrate will make 3 Ltrs of X1 fluid.

If you do not like the colour you will not be refunded, you cannot swap it for another colour as you are not paying for the product, you are just paying for shipping. We will make no money by sending you this item and we are doing it at cost to mayhems as we could have just binned the whole batch instead.

this is the colour -


----------



## andyv

Is that the color of the concentrate or what it would look like as the coolant? Looks good but I bet shipping to Australia would cost a fair bit.


----------



## Lutfij

*Mayhem's* - I'm in however I'm really interested to know why you binned it...would look good in my AMD APU build!


----------



## Mayhem

1) We would need to bar code ever thing.
2) We would have to add it to the 70 products we make already.
3) We have toooo many colours that i have to hand make already.

would you like me to carry on ....









The pic above is of it diluted. Shipping for 250mls of fluid is actually not expensive , that is why we made concentrate fluids so you don't pay over the odds on shipping.


----------



## natsu2014

I'd love to have one of those. Looks amazing


----------



## Lutfij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> would you like me to carry on ....


Please do! ... about how I can get a hold of it!


----------



## tSgt

Wtb infos about the "Decimation" thing !


----------



## ginger_nuts

Three litres of that awesome looking green, I would love to pay postage.


----------



## jd2195

Im in, I love the colour.


----------



## akira749

PM sent


----------



## Rakin

PM Sent. I'd love a sample of these.


----------



## Mayhem

its bank holiday this weekend so i cannot now sort any thing out till Tuesday so ill answer all you pms Tuesday guys







. My fault i forgot its bank holiday.


----------



## Mayhem

few people responded please check you emails and if you haven't PM'd me on here please do if you wish to part take in this offer of free goodies.

PM me your name, address(inc Country), and telephone number (for delivery purposes only) and email address.

The amount you would like

We will get back to you with delivery price via email.

Please remember its bank holiday in the uk so it may take a couple of days.

no information is kept and the information you give us is for delivery only. It all comes on a first serve basis so once we have run out we will not be making any more.

Mick


----------



## Balanar

I would love to get some! This is perfect, am planning for a green build next haha.


----------



## Kainn

I'm debating it, is this thr concentrate that is mainly for short term use?


----------



## Ash2097

Swapped from UV Blue to Pastel red


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Swapped from UV Blue to Pastel red
> 
> [/
> 
> 
> quote]
> 
> Amazing looking!


----------



## Ash2097

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Swapped from UV Blue to Pastel red
> 
> [/
> 
> 
> quote]
> 
> Amazing looking!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks wasn't sure on colour at first but it has grown on me
Click to expand...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> Swapped from UV Blue to Pastel red


Very nice!!


----------



## Mayhem

Any one who has contacted me ref free fluids,

Your details have been forwarded onto the shipping department and they will be in contact with you soon ref price of shipping.

People asking for more than 2 fluids will only get 1.

MIck


----------



## Lutfij




----------



## Mayhem

Each bottle of concentrate makes 3 Ltrs ... so two bottles = 6 Ltrs ect ect ect.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> Swapped from UV Blue to Pastel red


Why did you post this....now i want to switch back to a black/red theme lol. Looks great







Though's James' CSQ build has me stuck on mint green black. Also saves me some money cause the G1.Sniper 3 is 100$ cheaper than the Maximus V Extreme. Call me crazy but i like my color schemes to match


----------



## hamed599

hi.Ask about mayhem pastel:Whether . It works well with this reservoir
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17572/ex-pmp-216/EK_D5_X-RES_Top_140_-_Acetal_-_Laing_D5_Swiftech_MCP655-B655655-PWM.html?tl=g57c595s1935#blank
thank you


----------



## Mayhem

I dont see any issues with it just do not use the filter with it.


----------



## jd2195

Received my free coolant today. Thank you very much Mayhems


----------



## Lutfij

No-one contacted me...


----------



## Mast3rRoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> hi.Ask about mayhem pastel:Whether . It works well with this reservoir
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17572/ex-pmp-216/EK_D5_X-RES_Top_140_-_Acetal_-_Laing_D5_Swiftech_MCP655-B655655-PWM.html?tl=g57c595s1935#blank
> thank you


Actually, that is the very same res/top that I use in my build. I am running Pastel Mint Green and it works very well!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> No-one contacted me...


Did you check in your spam box?

The e-mail Steve from Mayhems sent me did go in the spam in the first place.


----------



## Mast3rRoot

yeah, mine went in my spam box too. haha


----------



## Lutfij

Stupid spam filter - I just found it...


----------



## Mayhem

so were spamming everyone







thats not good. someone's playing these silly games again.


----------



## meiosis

If you have the time, :3
Few questions regarding Mayhems (Pastel Berry Blue):

1. *Is Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing still bad to use?* Due to the disclaimer to avoid Primochill was referring to their pro-series which they have said they have improved from?
2. *If my tubing is white, would discoloration still be a factor?*
3. Is Masterkleer Clear tubing a good option?

--

Regarding the coolant:

4. Is it okay if we add a Silver-killcoil to the mixture?
5. Does the Berry Blue Pastel ever settle when the computer is not in use for a long time, have there ever been any complications regarding corrosion or gunk?
6. I read elsewhere that the collaboration with Ice Dragon, does it use the same base, and how would it compare with the original?

Sorry for so many questions, I'm switching from distilled water+silver kill coil, was very interested in the color and cooling.


----------



## Mayhem

1) Primochill Advance is perfect for any of our products..
2) Dyes eventually are drawn into all type of tubing so if you have white tubing this will show up a lot more than clear tubing.
3) Cannot answer that question as they have 6 different types. sorry
4) If using a cooling dont use a kill coil as well its not needed
5) yes it does settle over a long period of time but is reintroduced into the system when the pump is turned back on. No gunking has been reported to us as of yet.
6) There both different products. IDC is a performance fluid, pastel is a looks fluid.


----------



## hamed599

My pastels arrived today. Just one word:wonderful.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Mick how would I make a shade of this:



I just gave up on silver since I have no clue how to get anything close...


----------



## meiosis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 1) Primochill Advance is perfect for any of our products..
> 2) Dyes eventually are drawn into all type of tubing so if you have white tubing this will show up a lot more than clear tubing.
> 3) Cannot answer that question as they have 6 different types. sorry
> 4) If using a cooling dont use a kill coil as well its not needed
> 5) yes it does settle over a long period of time but is reintroduced into the system when the pump is turned back on. No gunking has been reported to us as of yet.
> 6) There both different products. IDC is a performance fluid, pastel is a looks fluid.


Thanks so much, just purchased it







.

Would there be an adverse effect if I did leave my killcoil in? And I meant masterkleer clear pvc, but I believe it would work.


----------



## ginger_nuts

^^^^^

I am using the Masterkleer PVC Clear / UV Blue. with Pastel Blue Berry.

After about 4 months, the tubing has a pale baby blue tinge, when removed (or drained). But other then that, all is good, I think


----------



## Solonowarion

Pastel- Pure Black
this is what happens when you use distilled instead of deionized water.

I read Di on the bottle and though " Ok distilled it is "

My bad!

Its not as brown in reality the camera picked it up bad but still


----------



## Sunreeper

Isn't that what happened to tom Logan from oc3d as well?


----------



## fakeblood

Oh that sucks!


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Pastel- Pure Black
> this is what happens when you use distilled instead of deionized water.
> 
> I read Di on the bottle and though " Ok distilled it is "
> 
> My bad!
> 
> Its not as brown in reality the camera picked it up bad but still


So note to self make sure to flush with Deionized water..not distilled?

Also that seems to be exactly what happened to Tom.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So note to self make sure to flush with Deionized water..not distilled?
> 
> Also that seems to be exactly what happened to Tom.


haha and Bart mentioned in my log too, what happened with tom.

So yes deionized. Learn something new every day. I though they were the same but ions and mayhems are bad.


----------



## Sunreeper

Ccccccccombo breaker!!!!!!


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Pastel- Pure Black
> this is what happens when you use distilled instead of deionized water.
> 
> I read Di on the bottle and though " Ok distilled it is "
> 
> My bad!
> 
> Its not as brown in reality the camera picked it up bad but still


I did the same thing to my Pastel Mint Green and I used distilled since It is cheap and very easy to get here in the states compared to other places such as the UK. I don't think my problem that I have is related to yours but I am however having a issue with my pastel where I am seeing some dark colour spots in some places on my tubing. This problem cropped up about 2 weeks after I installed it which was at the same time as the chimp challenge when I really started to put the system under heavy usage. My pastel has been in my system for almost 2 months now and I have had much time to really address the issue since I have been very busy. I have been monitoring this closely and I have been comparing some pics of the problem in late April and now. It seems like what ever it is seems stuck to the tubing and the spots have been in the same location and when i squeeze and flick the tubing, they stay in the same place.

On to some info about my loop. The tubing that I am using is Durelene which i have been using since I started my loop back in September and i did replace all the tubing when I redid my loop with the same stuff since i bought 25ft of it back in Aug of last year. Before I was running distilled with just a kill coils. When i redid my loop, I inspected the tubing that came off and it had a slight tinge which was not unheard off from all my research and inspected the clarity of the old water and it looked as clear as the day I installed it. When I started my loop back in Sept, I did the radiator dance along with some hot distilled water and very small amount of vinegar and did a lot of rinsing with just distilled water. Everything in my system is all copper with the exception on my Nickle Danger den GPU block which was added to the loop 2 months ago. It was a new block but I ran some water though it to make sure it was clean.

The overall colour looks the same as the day I added it to my system just looking at some photos that I took with the exception of these spots. The coolant looks great from a few feet and this is not affecting performance in anyway. Anyways, I will let these pics speak for themselves.


----------



## hamed599

hi. I have a question.mayhem aurora is Just for Show??? One of my friends Prepared 15 ML of it .He says :I think I can mix it with 750 ml water







and It can be used for a long time







. I thought that it should be mayhem dye but It was aurora . Whether the product is available ??


----------



## Lutfij

Lol so it is true when it rains spamming glitch - it pours like the amazon


----------



## ginger_nuts

Funny how only a few people have trouble out of thousands


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> haha and Bart mentioned in my log too, what happened with tom.
> 
> So yes deionized. Learn something new every day. I though they were the same but ions and mayhems are bad.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> haha and Bart mentioned in my log too, what happened with tom.
> 
> So yes deionized. Learn something new every day. I though they were the same but ions and mayhems are bad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> haha and Bart mentioned in my log too, what happened with tom.
> 
> So yes deionized. Learn something new every day. I though they were the same but ions and mayhems are bad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> haha and Bart mentioned in my log too, what happened with tom.
> 
> So yes deionized. Learn something new every day. I though they were the same but ions and mayhems are bad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> haha and Bart mentioned in my log too, what happened with tom.
> 
> So yes deionized. Learn something new every day. I though they were the same but ions and mayhems are bad.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> haha and Bart mentioned in my log too, what happened with tom.
> 
> So yes deionized. Learn something new every day. I though they were the same but ions and mayhems are bad.






LOL what da...


----------



## Blackops_2

I was wondering the same







but i've had the triple post spam glitch happen to me before.


----------



## Mayhem

lol love the spam but meh. Is that pastel black or Oil Black. Tom if i remember had it go wrong in oil black but ill need to double check, As for TTL so called reported problem it was a scam anyway as we asked for a sample and he never sent us one then suddenly ended up with xspc fluid in his system (guess who pays him off ). All that happened at a time as well when i refused to bow to his demands as we wont be blackmailed into stuff for idiots like him (i still have full MSN logs of hes backstabbing, lies and foul play).

@Solonowarion contact me via PM and ill replace you fluids anway. See if we can solve your issue.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> (i still have full MSN logs of hes backstabbing, lies and foul play).


Please share


----------



## hamed599

please help me. I have a question.mayhem aurora is Just for Show??? One of my friends Prepared 15 ML of it .He says :I think I can mix it with 750 ml water eh-smiley.gif and It can be used for a long time blinksmiley.gif . I thought that it should be mayhem dye but It was aurora . Whether the product is available ??


----------



## Mayhem

im really sorry i do not understand the question. you bought aurora which is a premix, you would like the dye instead.

the instructions are on the side of the bottle how to mix the liquids.


----------



## hamed599

thank you mayhem.


----------



## akira749

Got my X1 UV Emerald Green in the mail today! That was fast thanks!!!!!!!!

I should have pictures soon...just waiting on some ordered parts


----------



## andyv

I was hoping mayhem or others could help me out.

I am looking for a dye to match the MDPC Aquamarine MKII.


I was hoping for it to be a semi-transparent colour.

Any suggestions?
Thanks.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Received that awesome looking X1 UV Green Emerald last night









Just happened to be my birthday as well, boy what a present


----------



## vaporizer

Happy B-day Ginger


----------



## leoxtxt

Is it safe to mix Mayhems Dye (Ocean Blue) with XSPC EC6 Premix Coolant (Clear) ??.


----------



## Mayhem

@andyv try ocean blue

@leoxtxt yes it is safe. XSPC is just overpriced X1 however we use our own base fluids which is higher quality.

@ginger_nuts Happy birthday from everyone at Mayhems.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> Happy B-day Ginger


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: .
> 
> 
> 
> @andyv try ocean blue
> 
> @leoxtxt yes it is safe. XSPC is just overpriced X1 however we use our own base fluids which is higher quality.
> 
> 
> @ginger_nuts Happy birthday from everyone at Mayhems.


Thanks a million


----------



## orwasmadi

guys, noob question here, is there/can we make an Aurora black color ?


----------



## devsfan1830

After having to retube my loop after my Duralene + PrimoChill ICE combo caused yellowing, then upon getting more ICE seeing crap floating in a sealed bottle, I'm hunting for a new premix coolant. I need something that has biocide and corrosion inhibitors in it. People suggest distilled water and a kill coil but I have a combo of Copper and Nickel Plating with some brass fittings and I've seen posts that say kill coils would likely destroy my nickel blocks. Others say PTNuke but if you dont mix it right you still get buildup. So a premix that makes everything simple is better for me. I've been eyeing the Mayhems X1 Clear Concentrate. Does anyone run this stuff and see it stay clean? My Duralene+ICE loop saw the tubes going yellow in 2 months, with a faint yellow film on my hardware and settling in the bottom of my res. I dont know if I did a poor flush, if the coolant broke down, if it was plasticizer or all of the above. I've re flushed my rad, cleaned everything and switched to Primochill Advanced LRT, now I just need a good premix. Advice would be very helpful.

Also, I'm considering using a mayhems blue or dark blue dye and was wondering if anyone has had any issues with staining or separation. I know its inevitable because its a dye, but as long as it makes it 6-12 months I don't mind buying more tubing every now and again. I also have an acrylic bay res. Thanks.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> After having to retube my loop after my Duralene + PrimoChill ICE combo caused yellowing, then upon getting more ICE seeing crap floating in a sealed bottle, I'm hunting for a new premix coolant. I need something that has biocide and corrosion inhibitors in it. People suggest distilled water and a kill coil but I have a combo of Copper and Nickel Plating with some brass fittings and I've seen posts that say kill coils would likely destroy my nickel blocks. Others say PTNuke but if you dont mix it right you still get buildup. So a premix that makes everything simple is better for me. I've been eyeing the Mayhems X1 Clear Concentrate. Does anyone run this stuff and see it stay clean? My Duralene+ICE loop saw the tubes going yellow in 2 months, with a faint yellow film on my hardware and settling in the bottom of my res. I dont know if I did a poor flush, if the coolant broke down, if it was plasticizer or all of the above. I've re flushed my rad, cleaned everything and switched to Primochill Advanced LRT, now I just need a good premix. Advice would be very helpful.
> 
> Also, I'm considering using a mayhems blue or dark blue dye and was wondering if anyone has had any issues with staining or separation. I know its inevitable because its a dye, but as long as it makes it 6-12 months I don't mind buying more tubing every now and again. I also have an acrylic bay res. Thanks.


If you are wanting something to last a year or more, the X1 is not that.

I would personally suggest a Pastel. They have all the protective properties you are after and they last for like 3 years or so. I have experienced staining with my Masterkleer tubing, but none with the acrylic res.

Others have experienced colour variations, but this is most likely due to a of balanced PH reading. It is critical that the system is cleaned and the PH is neutral before using most if not all coloured coolants.

Mayhems list all their clear and UV clear blue coolants as being non staining.


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> If you are wanting something to last a year or more, the X1 is not that.
> 
> I would personally suggest a Pastel. They have all the protective properties you are after and they last for like 3 years or so. I have experienced staining with my Masterkleer tubing, but none with the acrylic res.
> 
> Others have experienced colour variations, but this is most likely due to a of balanced PH reading. It is critical that the system is cleaned and the PH is neutral before using most if not all coloured coolants.
> 
> Mayhems list all their clear and UV clear blue coolants as being non staining.


Thanks for your advice. The pastel is nice but I'm kinda looking for a non-UV translucent blue look. It looks like the XT-1 coolant is designed for 9-12 months according to their site, so I guess that would be the way to go if I want longevity, just get the blue dye for it. But dying will come later. Right now my case has smoke black acrylic panels, so you dont really see the inside, so I use clear coolant and throw a blue LED strip under my res to get the look. Im looking at a case labs case for the future, then I'll be looking to use coloring.

ALSO, bit confused over what water to use. Everywhere I look seems to equate deionized and distilled as being basically the same thing. But that post a few pages back where a guys pastel black turned brown when he used distilled has me freaked out that it will ruin whatever premix I pick. Would I be better off using deionized just in case? Anyone know of a US chain store that carries it? I dont recall ever seeing it in my local grocery store (Giant/Stop & Shop).


----------



## meiosis

Does anyone know if there are any side effects to using Mayhems Pastel + a Silver Kill Coil? I know it isn't required, but I have one laying around so I figure why not double up to make sure?


----------



## Mast3rRoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meiosis*
> 
> Does anyone know if there are any side effects to using Mayhems Pastel + a Silver Kill Coil? I know it isn't required, but I have one laying around so I figure why not double up to make sure?


I have been running one in mine for at least 6 months now... I haven't noticed anything weird at all, so I would say that you are all clear! At least with the Mint Pastel.


----------



## OPanda

So can I use distilled water or not? This should be stated very clearly in the first post, especially if using distilled water (for some reason) is going to mess up my pastel.


----------



## devsfan1830

ya know what? after seeing more and more pastel builds, I'm really liking the look of pure white pastel among black fittings and clear tube. and if it lasts longer than other coolants theres another plus. My current build uses a blue LED strip to illuminate the coolant in my acrylic bay res. I dont think it will look right. For those familiar with pastel, how opaque is it? My res can mount a 4" cathode and has holes for LEDS, I was thinking of getting white LEDS to make the coolant glow white from within, but if its too opaque to allow light transmission then I'd just be wasting my money.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Use distilled water with the coolants, it is fine, or you can use Demineralised water. If you can get hold of it, Mayhems also do a Ultra Pure H20 if you are paranoid for some reason.

The biggest thing is to make sure the system is cleaned out and flushed well before use. Also check the PH.

And as for the Pastel range, it will not let any light through, or absolutely minimal at the best.

You can add other Mayhems dyes to the Pastel range as well to create a one of a kind colour.


----------



## meiosis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mast3rRoot*
> 
> I have been running one in mine for at least 6 months now... I haven't noticed anything weird at all, so I would say that you are all clear! At least with the Mint Pastel.


Ah thank you, does anyone else have another opinion? I heard that the silver coil would speed up the eventual-conductive property of water, would it be fine to add in to the (Blue Berry Pastel) coolant? (not sure if it is any different then the Mint Pastel xD)


----------



## andyv

What's the best method to clean out the system before using mayhems? Currently running distilled and silver.


----------



## _REAPER_

Is there a grey or dark grey coolant in the works?


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Use distilled water with the coolants, it is fine, or you can use Demineralised water. If you can get hold of it, Mayhems also do a Ultra Pure H20 if you are paranoid for some reason.
> 
> The biggest thing is to make sure the system is cleaned out and flushed well before use. Also check the PH.
> 
> And as for the Pastel range, it will not let any light through, or absolutely minimal at the best.
> 
> You can add other Mayhems dyes to the Pastel range as well to create a one of a kind colour.


So I am going to be running some pastel soon and are you suggesting the de mineralised is better?

Also I was planning on trying to lighting up my res with the pastel in it and was thinking of:

White LED lighting up Pastel Blueberry liquid

OR

UV LED lighting up UV Blue/Pastel Blueberry

Would either of these lighting options work?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Mayhems Ultra Pura H2O is best, but other then that they will all work the same.

*The biggest thing is to make sure the system is cleaned out and flushed well before use. Also check the PH.*

As for trying to get a lighting effect in Pastel, it will not work. I can hold my LED LENSER P5 on one side of my res. and see absolutely nothing on the other side.

The Pastels are a solid colour. Thats what makes them so vibrant.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Mayhems Ultra Pura H2O is best, but other then that they will all work the same.
> 
> *The biggest thing is to make sure the system is cleaned out and flushed well before use. Also check the PH.*
> 
> As for trying to get a lighting effect in Pastel, it will not work. I can hold my LED LENSER P5 on one side of my res. and see absolutely nothing on the other side.
> 
> The Pastels are a solid colour. Thats what makes them so vibrant.


hmm ok ok fair enough. I will flush the system extremely well before use and probably wont check the PH because I dont know how (assuming go to a local pool store or something to do it and get the kit) Was just curious because I have had serious problems with plasticizer before and yes that is the tubing but always wondered if it had to do with liquid as well. I guess I wont be trying to light up the Pastels then I love the look of them because they are so solid just thought it would have been cool to get a glowing solid color







Thanks for your help


----------



## Solonowarion

delete


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> What's the best method to clean out the system before using mayhems? Currently running distilled and silver.


I ran boiling water and a bit of vinegar through my rads. 1 part vin to 10 parts water. Cleaned all my fittings and acrylic tubing by soaking them then rinsing with distilled water. Put system together and ran some distilled then drained and added coolant.

Wouldve been fine if I had used the right right type of water which isn't distilled.

Everyone has there own way of cleaning just take your time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Is there a grey or dark grey coolant in the works?


Mix white and black together.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPanda*
> 
> So can I use distilled water or not? This should be stated very clearly in the first post, especially if using distilled water (for some reason) is going to mess up my pastel.


DO NOT use distilled. Only deionized. I read Di on the bottled and assumed it was distilled. I had an extremely flushed and clean system. At least my coolant reacted badly with distilled. Anyways this was supposed to be Pastel Pure Black.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> DO NOT use distilled. Only deionized. I read Di on the bottled and assumed it was distilled. I had an extremely flushed and clean system. At least my coolant reacted badly with distilled. Anyways this was supposed to be Pastel Pure Black.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey Fellow British Columbiaian (is that a word? doesnt matter







) This is quite interesting looking maybe good for noctua build?







Anyways I hope you were able to solve what ever problems you were having there and I think I will try and find myself some Deionized water instead


----------



## ginger_nuts

You should be able to get a PH testing kit from any good supermarket or hardware store. Some people also get a PH testing strips that are cheaper but harder to find IMO. They all do the same thing









I have seen great builds around the place using the Pastels with well placed lighting.

Side note: If I am not mistaken plasticize will occur when temperatures reached are high or extreme in both directions, UV light (natural forms) high levels and a high PH level is reached. I also believe the levels required are different for every brand. I think


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Hey Fellow British Columbiaian (is that a word? doesnt matter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) This is quite interesting looking maybe good for noctua build?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways I hope you were able to solve what ever problems you were having there and I think I will try and find myself some Deionized water instead


Hey man. It is now! I have since drained the chocolate milk and mayhem have been ever so kind as to replace my coolant. At safeway the deionized is right next to distilled so you should have no trouble tracking it down.


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> You should be able to get a PH testing kit from any good supermarket or hardware store. Some people also get a PH testing strips that are cheaper but harder to find IMO. They all do the same thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen great builds around the place using the Pastels with well placed lighting.
> 
> Side note: If I am not mistaken plasticize will occur when temperatures reached are high or extreme in both directions, UV light (natural forms) high levels and a high PH level is reached. I also believe the levels required are different for every brand. I think


hmm Okay I will take a look around the markets to see if I can find a tester, what is the PH supposed to be? I am still determined to light up the pastel in the res just gonna have to find another way. I do run a small loop but my temps are quite normal (I think) so I dont think my plasticizer would have came from that. I am trying out some tygon E-1000 I think it was this time around so hopefully that works out









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Hey man. It is now! I have since drained the chocolate milk and mayhem have been ever so kind as to replace my coolant. At safeway the deionized is right next to distilled so you should have no trouble tracking it down.


Mayhem so great! I will be sure to pick up the deionized


----------



## devsfan1830

Stupid question alert: which PH do you test? The final coolant in the system or water in the system used to flush it. If its the coolant, what do you do if the PH is off the mark since Mayhems site says not to add their biocide to any of the premixes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Hey man. It is now! I have since drained the chocolate milk and mayhem have been ever so kind as to replace my coolant. At safeway the deionized is right next to distilled so you should have no trouble tracking it down.


We have a safeway near by, I never go to it. Wish I had read this before I bought more distilled water. Good thing its only a buck per jug.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> *Stupid question alert: which PH do you test?* The final coolant in the system or water in the system used to flush it. If its the coolant, what do you do if the PH is off the mark since Mayhems site says not to add their biocide to any of the premixes.
> We have a safeway near by, I never go to it. Wish I had read this before I bought more distilled water. Good thing its only a buck per jug.


Stupid answer *ALERT*: Test the water you are flushing with, I pressure test the loop with my distilled water, and test that.

As for the correct PH, it is PH7.


----------



## longroadtrip

Used premixed Mayhem's Pastel White...really happy with the Mayhems fluid!









Build is called monsterITX


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Used premixed Mayhem's Pastel White...really happy with the Mayhems fluid!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build is called monsterITX
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome build man. You packed that thing! Glad I saw this I want to watercool an s3 without a pedestal. What HDD cover is that?


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Awesome build man. You packed that thing! Glad I saw this I want to watercool an s3 without a pedestal. What HDD cover is that?


Thanks! The HDD cover is a Scythe Himuro...







I had to make a custom bracket to get it to fit in the S3 (It's in my build log.)


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Thanks! The HDD cover is a Scythe Himuro...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to make a custom bracket to get it to fit in the S3 (It's in my build log.)


Thanks I will be sure to check it out.


----------



## Ash2097

Just noticed these white bits in my reservior (using red pastel) anyone know what they are? The fluid is around 3 weeks old.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> Just noticed these white bits in my reservior (using red pastel) anyone know what they are? The fluid is around 3 weeks old.


What fluid were you using before and did you flush/clean out your loop before filling it? Could be gunking peeling off if not


----------



## Ash2097

I was using Mayhems UV blue when I first built the loop a few months back (flushed rads at the time of building) and then when I switched to this I flushed the whole system with Di water first.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ash2097*
> 
> I was using Mayhems UV blue when I first built the loop a few months back (flushed rads at the time of building) and then when I switched to this I flushed the whole system with Di water first.


That's really weird. In that case, I'm out of ideas









Anyone else want to chyme in?


----------



## yannickhk

has anyone ever tried using Mayhem's pastel with the aqualis reservoir?

I was wondering how the fountain worked out with this liquid.


----------



## POMLORE

This is primoflex pro LRT after 6 months, it started to cloud after about 2 months. 1st pic is day 1


Have now re-built a new i74770k system using primoflex advanced LRT ,hope this does better


----------



## skyn3t

After all the primochill issue I'm about to test the new Advanced tube in the market I had been watch everyone from distance and I decide to give it a go . Just got the new redbloodish . If you guys have any input before I ran my tubing just drop me a replay. Thank you. I may doing a second loop with mayhems pastel white.


----------



## IT Diva

Hi guys,

I have a question about mixing and compatibility.

I have Aurora Supernova, which is pretty much clear / silver, but I would like it to be more pearl white.

Can I add a little pastel white to it to get it whiter?

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I have a question about mixing and compatibility.
> 
> I have Aurora Supernova, which is pretty much clear / silver, but I would like it to be more pearl white.
> 
> Can I add a little pastel white to it to get it whiter?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene


I know pastel can be mixed with any pastel and aurora with any aurora. But not sure about crossing.

I would test with a small amount first but Mayhem will chime in here.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Maybe drop an email or PM if you get no solid confirmation.

But I have seen Mayhems telling people if you run the Aurora through a coffee strainer you will end up with the main colour as a Pastel.

But if you add Pastel to the Aurora you may dilute the sparkling effect, by how much I would not be sure.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Is there a grey or dark grey coolant in the works?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Mix white and black together.


I don't think it is that simple. I have also been wondering about a grey coolant, and purchased pastel white, pastel black and oil black x1.

However, to make grey you need white and green apparently









It is best illustrated here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG6y2M6Uvss


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *POMLORE*
> 
> This is primoflex pro LRT after 6 months, it started to cloud after about 2 months. 1st pic is day 1
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have now re-built a new i74770k system using primoflex advanced LRT ,hope this does better
> [
> 
> 
> /quote]
> 
> IIRC Primoflex pro is known to have issues while Advanced LRT is good to go and is what Mayhem's uses for testing.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> I don't think it is that simple. I have also been wondering about a grey coolant, and purchased pastel white, pastel black and oil black x1.
> 
> However, to make grey you need white and green apparently
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is best illustrated here
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG6y2M6Uvss


thanks for that. I wanted a gray coolant as well to match my cables. Green. Who would have thought!


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> thanks for that. I wanted a gray coolant as well to match my cables. Green. Who would have thought!


I know, right?!

I'm also looking to match the graphite cables I got from Corsair.


----------



## Mayhem

justt got back from being away.

@skyn3t off the record as such it can be mixed however it doesn't look that good and as the norma Aurora is a short term coolant. The base mixes with Aurora and pastel both work together without any issues that we have come across, how ever we have not done long term testing with such mixes only short term ones.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Is there any way I can order the grey somewhere directly? I really have no confidence that I can make that color. I just thought about using white and black but that vid proved me wrong


----------



## friskiest

I wouldn't mind having a go at making the grey, but I cannot get the dyes where I am.

I could perhaps string up a white and black mixture later on today, showing what it looks like in a reservoir and in tygon tubing.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> justt got back from being away.


Great to have you back, hope all is well for you and your loved ones (family etc)


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Stupid answer *ALERT*: Test the water you are flushing with, I pressure test the loop with my distilled water, and test that.
> 
> As for the correct PH, it is PH7.


So i filled up my loop with plain distilled water. The water from the bottle is perfectly neutral pH as expected. However, after a few mins of circulation i put a dipstick into my res and i get a pH of 7.8-8.4 as shown:

I have decided to go with xt-1 with distilled water. is an alkaline solution likely to cause
issues? what is the likely cause since ive flushed this system with gallons upon gallons of distilled already.


----------



## Mayhem

@devsfan1830 there you go .PH has a big game to play in these systems and if you do not rise out and flush your system correctly you can get issues. Rad makers have a big part to play in this ... thank you for posting your PH levels wish more people would.


----------



## yannickhk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @devsfan1830 there you go .PH has a big game to play in these systems and if you do not rise out and flush your system correctly you can get issues. Rad makers have a big part to play in this ... thank you for posting your PH levels wish more people would.


How exactly do you prepare a loop for the use of pastel liquid? Do you flush it with tap water? Can I mix the concentrated pastel with distilled?

Also, can I use dyes with distilled water? And which biocide should I use. I read that the use of silver coil with dyes wasn't recommended. So what should I use?

I am planning of getting the aqualis reservoir with the fountain. Would pastel work or is it too opaque?

Sorry about all those questions, but I had real bad experiences with cooling liquids. I switched to distilled+silver coil a while ago but I am now planning to use mayhems pastel and/or dyes for my next upgrade. I just want to make sure that I won't mess it up


----------



## Killa Cam

i used primochill sysprep for 12 hours before filled my loop with pastel


----------



## yannickhk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> i used primochill sysprep for 12 hours before filled my loop with pastel


Where did you get that?


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yannickhk*
> 
> Where did you get that?


here. mix 1 bottle per gallon of deionized or distilled water.


----------



## Mast3rRoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> i used primochill sysprep for 12 hours before filled my loop with pastel


I also used that, and I haven't had any issues yet. It came with my roll of Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing.


----------



## orwasmadi

.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yannickhk*
> 
> How exactly do you prepare a loop for the use of pastel liquid? Do you flush it with tap water? Can I mix the concentrated pastel with distilled?
> 
> Also, can I use dyes with distilled water? And which biocide should I use. I read that the use of silver coil with dyes wasn't recommended. So what should I use?
> 
> I am planning of getting the aqualis reservoir with the fountain. Would pastel work or is it too opaque?
> 
> Sorry about all those questions, but I had real bad experiences with cooling liquids. I switched to distilled+silver coil a while ago but I am now planning to use mayhems pastel and/or dyes for my next upgrade. I just want to make sure that I won't mess it up


I just flushed my system with distilled a bunch times to get it clean. I have been running purely distilled for about a week while I wait for my coolant. Then I will flush with deionized water. Do not mix pastel with distilled. If you look at my build log or a few pages back you can see what happens if you do.

Pastel it very opaque and you might only barely notice it. At least for pastel you dont need a coil or any biocide. Just deionized and pastel.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I just flushed my system with distilled a bunch times to get it clean. I have been running purely distilled for about a week while I wait for my coolant. Then I will flush with deionized water. *Do not mix pastel with distilled*. If you look at my build log or a few pages back you can see what happens if you do.
> 
> Pastel it very opaque and you might only barely notice it. At least for pastel you dont need a coil or any biocide. Just deionized and pastel.


They are very assertive words. Maybe you should reconsider. State facts not assumptions.

I have mixed Pastel with distilled water with no side effects.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> They are very assertive words. Maybe you should reconsider. State facts not assumptions.
> 
> I have mixed Pastel with distilled water with no side effects.


Well it sure seems assertive when you enlarge the text and underline it lol.

I was told not to and it says to use Deionized on the bottle. Using distilled with my pastel was user error stated by mayhem, but good for you that nothing happened when you did.


----------



## golfergolfer

Hey just curious a few pages back I had asked about lighting up Pastel Blue Berry. Since then I have tried to find videos and stuff and now have the question. If I mix:

15ml - CLEAR/UV Blue

250ml - Plue Berry Pastel

735ml - Deionized Water

Would I have a strong UV glow to it while maintaining the same color of blue from the pastel? This is kinda directed at Mayhem unless someone else has done the same thing or something similar


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Hey just curious a few pages back I had asked about lighting up Pastel Blue Berry. Since then I have tried to find videos and stuff and now have the question. If I mix:
> 
> 15ml - CLEAR/UV Blue
> 
> 250ml - Plue Berry Pastel
> 
> 735ml - Deionized Water
> 
> Would I have a strong UV glow to it while maintaining the same color of blue from the pastel? This is kinda directed at Mayhem unless someone else has done the same thing or something similar


It takes a large amount of uv clear/blue to make any noticeable uv effect with the pastel line, but it's doable.


----------



## JAM3S121

I want to make my own mint green pastel coolant, can someone give me a tl/dr answer? I've read countless pages of this thread and a lot of seems to contradictate itself or just be not complete information..

To make my own green all I should need is
pastel white
blue and yellow dye and adjust accordingly right?
The pastel white would be the coolant base that has all the biocide and inhibitors so i wouldn't need to run anything else in my system?

What about tubing... it says use primochill advanced LRT but I've heard it has plastizer.. then I heard use duralene.. just looking for own set in stone answer. I don't care about the price and would order either I just want something thats going to look good and not mess with my stuff.


----------



## YeAz

Now you know why I asked


----------



## OPanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I was told not to and it says to use Deionized on the bottle. Using distilled with my pastel was user error stated by mayhem, but good for you that nothing happened when you did.


What's so special about DI water that makes it superior to distilled water for Mayhems? DI water isn't as pure as distilled (is it?) and it reionizes quickly...

I need a real scientific/technical answer as to why distilled water supposedly mucks up Mayhems pastel when DI water doesn't. Anyone? Mayhems?


----------



## _REAPER_

I am still interested in Grey if you could make it I would buy it.


----------



## Mayhem

@every one - play nice now







.

@golfergolfer your mixture will make about 1 Ltr of Pastel UV active fluid. if it not active enough give me a shout and ill see what i can do.

@JAM3S121 Blue + Yellow (UV yellow green or UV laser green) + Pastel white will make a green pastel. Best tubing is Primochill advance.

@Reaper if you can give me a picture of the colour and ill see what i can do for you.


----------



## yannickhk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I just flushed my system with distilled a bunch times to get it clean. I have been running purely distilled for about a week while I wait for my coolant. Then I will flush with deionized water. Do not mix pastel with distilled. If you look at my build log or a few pages back you can see what happens if you do.
> 
> Pastel it very opaque and you might only barely notice it. At least for pastel you dont need a coil or any biocide. Just deionized and pastel.


thanks for the informative answers, I really appreciate it. +1

still playing with the idea of pastel. I am planing my build, but the mods are going to take time. That aqualis res is really nice because of the fountain but I frankly don't know yet, either I'll go with pastel coolant and forget the fountain all together or I'll go with mayhems dyes and get the fountain res. We'll see.

Anyway, thanks bro


----------



## JAM3S121

Thanks for the response mayhem, so blue+yellow would make mint green. Or I could go with the UV yellow/green? Would the color look any different without UV light? I am trying to get a slightly less bright mint green


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPanda*
> 
> What's so special about DI water that makes it superior to distilled water for Mayhems? DI water isn't as pure as distilled (is it?) and it reionizes quickly...
> 
> I need a real scientific/technical answer as to why distilled water supposedly mucks up Mayhems pastel when DI water doesn't. Anyone? Mayhems?


I would also like to know this. I know that through the process if DI it becomes more pure than distilled, but doesnt DI water reionize itself from things like copper in rads and different components?


----------



## OPanda

Well, from what I've been reading, DI water _can_ be purer than distilled water (depending on the process used) but it usually isn't. DI water reionizes quickly once it is exposed to air.


----------



## shumala

My unfinished TJ11 with Mayhem dye. I had ice white and was transitioning to red with red dye but pink looked pretty neat so I will stay with this color for now.









Mayhem, still waiting for that email....


----------



## Mayhem

@JAM3S121 if you copying mint green its Blue + UV Yellow green dye. To make it less brighter add more blue less UV Yellow green that will do the trick.

@shumala Have i missed the boat please re email what it was as i may have missed it.


----------



## IT Diva

Mayhem, now that you're back,

Can I add white pastel to Super Nova silver to get it more white, I want it to be the "white" in a red white blue triple loop setup.

I bought it expecting it to be white, since that's what FCPU lists it as;

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17700/ex-liq-281/Mayhems_Aurora_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_Supernova_White.html?tl=g30c337s1809

But it's really a clear/silver.

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## Mayhem

Hi there we do not control how people advertise out products we simpley list them as we do.

Mixing Aurora and pastel works how ever its only for short term and is not that effective.

Mick


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## JAM3S121

Mayhem I'll need to test with a little bit of white pastel right?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi there we do not control how people advertise out products we simpley list them as we do.
> 
> Mixing Aurora and pastel works how ever its only for short term and is not that effective.
> 
> Mick


Thanks for the feedback.

I wasn't asserting it was your fault for others advertising it as white, just that as a result, I was expecting it to be whiter and was hoping adding some pastel white would whiten it up a bit, at least for pics when it gets done.

Thanks again,

Darlene


----------



## devsfan1830

My rig is now powered by smurf





Mayhems Deep Blue dyed XT-1
Custom GTX 580 backplates and SLI bridge cover plate by Coldzero.eu


----------



## trapjaw72

one sweet set up bro great job......


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


Amazing!! Very good looking build!


----------



## Wookieelover

3+ months and going strong.
Mayhems Oil black xt-1 concentrate & Plain Distilled water
Primochill LRT Advanced Blood Red

Looks like that day I filled the system.
The Oil Black looks totally brilliant.


----------



## trapjaw72

i use the Mayhems Pastel ice white love it an the Mayhems Aurora not for every day use but it looks so good its all i use Mayhems is the best......


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*


OH MY .............. Impressive.

@IT Diva no wasn't saying you were saying that lol was just explaining a lot of companies don't know how to describe our products and they do the best they can. No offence was meant.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Can some point me to an article on how to properly flush a system? Interested to see people's process on what to do. Understandably you are looking for ph level and each system may be different but what are the basics vrs extremes.


----------



## trapjaw72

hello here is a link check it out.....http://www.procooling.com/articles/html/flushing_your_cooling_system_-.php


----------



## benjorawks

Hey guys,

I recently got the Mayhem Aurora (Tharsis Red) for my wc system. It was working well at first but now there is rarely any visibility of the aurora flowing through the tubes..any idea whyY??
Helppp please!!


----------



## trapjaw72

well Mayhem Aurora is not for every day pc use only for show computers an it dont last long,i see you did not read the website did you,plus some water cooling parts Mayhem Aurora does not work right in an blocks the loop buddy not good........ Your pump does not have enough pressure or flow to move the fluids around quick enough (e.g 4 rads + 2 blocks on a single 18 watt DDC is expecting to much)
You have bad flow in a reservoir or single component that is causing the pearl to stay inside it or stick.


----------



## trapjaw72

Aurora is "NOT" made for use in a home system. It has been developed for show System's (modding) and Photo work. If looking for a fluid for a Home system / Gaming system please use Mayhems X1 or Mayhems Pastel range of fluids there are fully tested and working in any kind of loop.......


----------



## YeAz

@Benjorawks,

Before we can help you some of us need to know a few things.


list of parts you are using (rad, pump, blocks etc etc etc)
Then the most important thing to provide us a few pictures, if you can, showing how you have plumbed all your gear together. 99% of peoples problems are always going to be their plumbing (how you designed your loop). Remember this is a liquid that you need to build a WC system around the liquid also, not just the case.....-there are rules to follow.
Also details on how you flushed your system to prepare it for Aurora - (what was your procedure)
People are going to spray you with the information that this liquid is for show only and tell you that you should have read the info etc etc etc. However I know that can't make you feel good because you have it in your system and you need it resolved. There is a reason Mayhem's warns this liquid is for show only......... The reason is that it is a high maintenance liquid, you have to be prepared to put in the high spanner time to maintain it in a system (even to the point were you may have to mod your system). The average home user does not like putting in the spanner time every few weeks until they iron out all the traps in the system (hence why everyone one that owns a dog does not have a sheep dog)

So if you can dig up a bit more information about your gear, throw some pix in the mix (please make sure we can see the entire loop) then we can offer some help.

Trapjaw is right, it does not just disappear from your system. It has to be somewhere


----------



## Mayhem

Well today is a landmark day for Mayhems. We have now officially partnered up with Primary Dispersions Ltd in the UK. We will be working together to advance our coolants and designs for products to new levels. We now have "exclusive" access to processes that our competitors can only dream off and we will be using this new technology to our full advantage. We are not looking to be one or two steps ahead were looking to be years ahead of the game.

Ill answer any questions tomorrow been a long hard day in meetings ect ect sorting out the above







.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Well today is a landmark day for Mayhems. We have now officially partnered up with Primary Dispersions Ltd in the UK. We will be working together to advance our coolants and designs for products to new levels. We now have "exclusive" access to processes that our competitors can only dream off and we will be using this new technology to our full advantage. We are not looking to be one or two steps ahead were looking to be years ahead of the game.
> 
> Ill answer any questions tomorrow been a long hard day in meetings ect ect sorting out the above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Congrats. Looking forward to future products!


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Cool, great news Mick







:

Like a boss


----------



## trapjaw72

Mayhems is the best an now its only going to get that much better

cant wait Looking forward to future products also...


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Well today is a landmark day for Mayhems. We have now officially partnered up with Primary Dispersions Ltd in the UK. We will be working together to advance our coolants and designs for products to new levels. We now have "exclusive" access to processes that our competitors can only dream off and we will be using this new technology to our full advantage. We are not looking to be one or two steps ahead were looking to be years ahead of the game.
> 
> Ill answer any questions tomorrow been a long hard day in meetings ect ect sorting out the above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


GREAT TO HEAR!!!!

Well Done







keep us posted


----------



## ginger_nuts

Having great products made better is awesome









But keep this fantastic customer relations thing going and you will continue exceeding









Sadly to many big companies lose sight of their customers.


----------



## Mayhem

We intend to keep up with this all though sometimes its not easy. We are growing at a rapid rate but in a controlled way so that we don't out grow our self s. We still make the odd mistake how ever we do correct them.

Today this week we have been looking for new premises as we've grown so big storage is becoming an issue, trying to store 60,000 bottles kind of takes up quite a bit of room.


----------



## ACallander

So did I screw up using distilled water for my sunset pastel? It's like a weird brownish orange merkey tinge to it instead of that bright vibrant yellow it once was.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> So did I screw up using distilled water for my sunset pastel? It's like a weird brownish orange merkey tinge to it instead of that bright vibrant yellow it once was.


I just did it with my pure black. Or pure brown. Someone here said they used distilled with their maayhems and it worked fine. How long did it take to change.


----------



## benjorawks

Hey YeAz,

1.CPU - Koolance CPU-380I
GPU - HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 680
Rads - XSPC RX360 and XSPC RX240
As for the pump and res, i'm using Koolance pmp-450 plus Bitspower d5 top V2 and the Bitspower Dual/Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 250. i also added the Bitspower aqua pipe to the res.

2.




3. What I did before putting the Mayhem Aurora in was that I cleaned it several times with distilled water and once with Mayhem pure h2o..After that, I mixed the aurora with pure h2o and slowly poured it in...

Hopefully that is enough information..







Really appreciate the help!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> So did I screw up using distilled water for my sunset pastel? It's like a weird brownish orange merkey tinge to it instead of that bright vibrant yellow it once was.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I just did it with my pure black. Or pure brown. Someone here said they used distilled with their maayhems and it worked fine. How long did it take to change.


Did either or both of you clean out the loop? Did you both also test the PH before adding the Coolant? If so what was the reading?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Well today is a landmark day for Mayhems. We have now officially partnered up with Primary Dispersions Ltd in the UK. We will be working together to advance our coolants and designs for products to new levels. We now have "exclusive" access to processes that our competitors can only dream off and we will be using this new technology to our full advantage. We are not looking to be one or two steps ahead were looking to be years ahead of the game.
> 
> Ill answer any questions tomorrow been a long hard day in meetings ect ect sorting out the above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Well ****, that's a big step forward XD

So with your new resources how long till we can have an Aurora coolant that's good for sustained use


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Did either or both of you clean out the loop? Did you both also test the PH before adding the Coolant? If so what was the reading?


I rinsed out the rads and blocks with boiling water and a bit of vinegar in the sink with a pump for a few hours. Then just ran dist through it. After setting up the system I ran a 4 liters of dist through the loop before draining and adding the coolant. Did not test ph but before I fill her up again I will this time.


----------



## kcuestag

Quick question, how much of a difference can I expect from white pastel to distilled water in terms of temperature?

I am thinking of going clear tubing in a month or two after the lan party I have in July and then start using mayhems pastel (Probably white).


----------



## ACallander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I rinsed out the rads and blocks with boiling water and a bit of vinegar in the sink with a pump for a few hours. Then just ran dist through it. After setting up the system I ran a 4 liters of dist through the loop before draining and adding the coolant. Did not test ph but before I fill her up again I will this time.


I did the exact same thing.. But come on test the PH.. Not going too nuts here.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> I did the exact same thing.. But come on test the PH.. Not going too nuts here.


Yeah you shoudlnt have to test the ph. Just use the right type of water and have a very clean system. This time I will try it though. Kind of interesting and would rather not risk ruining more mayhems


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Quick question, how much of a difference can I expect from white pastel to distilled water in terms of temperature?
> 
> I am thinking of going clear tubing in a month or two after the lan party I have in July and then start using mayhems pastel (Probably white).


I believe Mayhems quote about 2 degrees celsius, I personally noticed about that as well. Give or take a little.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Yeah you shoudlnt have to test the ph. Just use the right type of water and have a very clean system. This time I will try it though. Kind of interesting and would rather not risk ruining more mayhems


So I far the people with problems with the Pastel changing colour seem to also have had a PH problem, but I am no expert and there is always exemptions to things.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> So I far the people with problems with the Pastel changing colour seem to also have had a PH problem, but I am no expert and there is always exemptions to things.


What type of store do they sell kits for testing?

I guess a pet store would have them?


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benjorawks*
> 
> CPU - Koolance CPU-380I
> GPU - HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 680
> Rads - XSPC RX360 and XSPC RX240
> As for the pump and res, i'm using Koolance pmp-450 plus Bitspower d5 top V2 and the Bitspower Dual/Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 250. i also added the Bitspower aqua pipe to the res.
> 
> 3. What I did before putting the Mayhem Aurora in was that I cleaned it several times with distilled water and once with Mayhem pure h2o..After that, I mixed the aurora with pure h2o and slowly poured it in...
> 
> Hopefully that is enough information..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really appreciate the help!


Thanks for organising the post back to me.....I should have asked you, how long did the liquid run for before it went like that? Starting to put problems down to how long Aurora takes to fade out.

JUST A WARNING!!! if you are going to start any of my recommendations you are going to need a lot of time and more Aurora (I have about 9 bottles just sitting in my parts cupboard; though stock is hard to find in AUS ), I have seen people spray it at Mick on youtube and forums about the HF's about solving these issues and most just spit it and move to some other fluid. So before you decide what you want to do. Have a think about it...... either way you are lining up to start pulling down your loop. Either for continuing to use Aurora or flushing and cleaning it out for something else. MAYHEM'S Pastels work well. If you are going to change to another fluid you have to find that pearl first and get it out.

Koolance Quick Disconnects to use when designing system for Aurora!!!! so much time is saved and fluid when wanting to inspect RAD's.

On a motivating note!!!! AURORA looks off tap!!!! and if you are prepared to put in the time and I believe it is worth it. (I am currently challenged atm trying to put 2 loops into a Thermaltake Armor A30 MicroATX case and trying to build that around Aurora).

Ok here we go (eliminating AURORA issues)

First thing to try is crank that pump to lvl 5 because you really need to know what your fluid is flowing like. Maybe tap in a flow metre just to see. I test with a INS-FM16 Coolant Flow Meter from Koolance however I never leave them in the system. Aurora needs flow flow flow and the more you have the better









Secondly, what have you got in place for draining loop. Have you got an off shoot somewhere that I can not see that is G4 plugged. If you have, get rid of it and join the loop back up. These drain plugs and off shoots that people make kill this stuff in less than 24 hours. The pearl just collects in them and the pump just can't get the pearl back out.

Every system is different with Aurora so when it comes to this fluid you are going to have to strip each part out of the loop for inspection 1 at a time (Except for GPU blocks - no need cause GUP blocks have no hassle with Aurora as yet) however try and do something about getting rid of that 90 degree fitting on the card. Maybe try and reverse the plug to the other side and use a 45 degree fitting. Aurora hates 90 degree fittings in complex loops (however they can be use in simple loops 1 rad 1 pump 1 block 1 rez).

Next.. the CPU-380i (just letting you know this is an untested block for Aurora) At the moment I am testing EK new block since testing was last done). Remove the block from the loop and open her up. If it is full of Aurora pearls then it is the restriction plate (jet plate) that is causing the issues. Want to keep Aurora going the plate has to go. You should only see 3 degrees maximum difference if you do. With Ek's jet plates I am trailing my own drilled and slotted plates (EK gave users a blank one to make their own - not no more though).

RAD... where to start with these. I can't see your RX360 in the pix so I cant comment on mounting so I will just give a general Aurora suggestion. RADS are best mounted with the inlet and outlets facing down to stop pearls from collecting in the end tanks and not been picked up again on system start up. (I am testing AlphaCool's 60mm thick RADs atm and already had issues. I am running 1 D5 pump per Rad). You are trying to run a 240 and a 360 on one pump. to combat these problems you have to get your Flow rate up.

Your Rez is fine tubes are the way to go, vertical or horizontally mounted it does not matter.

I am not a fan of bolting on D5 pumps to tops and rez all in one for this fluid. Some may show it can be done but it makes it painful for looking for issues. Tops are always different etc etc. I normally use D5 pumps with just a top and keep the rez separate. So I would leave this last to look at on your list.

Lastly I would call your loop a mid range challenge for Aurora. 2x blocks 1x360RAD 1x240RAD plus a few 45 degree fittings with some 90's All on 1 single D5 pump. If you want it to last and last I have never built a loop that is bigger than 1xblock 1xpump 1xrad 1xrez for this stuff. It guarantees success for fluid over months and months unless you mount the rad 10 feet away from the system









Let us know how you go...... or have any other issues.


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> What type of store do they sell kits for testing?
> 
> I guess a pet store would have them?


I found PH strips at walmart, pet fish section. They come in a bottle about 4x1x1 inches. Its tiny but its among the water filtering supplies. A petstore will surely have them.


----------



## Mayhem

Lots to answer here
Quote:


> @ ACallander We have never had one problem or issue with pastel yellow turning a different colour. So some questions have to be asked.
> 1) Was it a new set up?
> 2) have you used any dyed liquid in the past?
> 3) was the system flushed?>
> 
> Possible answers to your issue
> 
> 1) crap left from inside a rad. Left over flux ect ect
> 2) Old Dye / Coolant
> 
> It would be impossible to tell how ever send me your full name , address and telephone number Via PM and i will ship you out some new stuff and lets see what happens.


Quote:


> @ZytheEKS this new partnership gives us access to one of a kind equipment and also government and privet funding in the research industry. Also access direct to uni equipment and many other things that we have not been able to access including some chemicals we were not allowed access to in the past that the government keeps close control off. As you have said this a "huge" step forwards.Yes we are moving forwards with aurora as we now can get the stuff we needed to help us improve it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . We all so will now be listed in the European Nano Perspective directory and High value manufacturing directory


Quote:


> @kcuestag Pastel is not a performance fluid so will increase you temp buy about 1.5 to 2c (we've improved its manufacturing over the last few months).l With the new partnership we are going to improve Pastel soon as well for better performance as under the electron microscope we found some thing that could be improved and this is currently being worked on right now.


@YeAz Excellent advise. +rep


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Well I suppose you will need testers for new fluids........


----------



## trapjaw72

if you need testers for new fluids im game i have a few gaming pc water-cooled...


----------



## Mayhem

rotflmao. we've got testers at the ready how ever new fluids or updated fluids take time to make lol.


----------



## Ben Quincy

Hello,
For my first custom pc build I have in planning to use your pastel coolant but I want to make sure that the Primochill Advanced LRT did infact fix the problem of incompatibility the non-advanced version used to have. Is anyone here able to confirm this for me or would it be best to switch to another tubing?


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben Quincy*
> 
> Hello,
> For my first custom pc build I have in planning to use your pastel coolant but I want to make sure that the Primochill Advanced LRT did infact fix the problem of incompatibility the non-advanced version used to have. Is anyone here able to confirm this for me or would it be best to switch to another tubing?


You will find it has been tested and works well. I have used it with no issues







You will see that Mayhem's has given the tube the thumbs up







on page one. Do not forget to flush your system









Good luck with your first build hope you enjoy the ride


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben Quincy*
> 
> Hello,
> For my first custom pc build I have in planning to use your pastel coolant but I want to make sure that the Primochill Advanced LRT did infact fix the problem of incompatibility the non-advanced version used to have. Is anyone here able to confirm this for me or would it be best to switch to another tubing?


Just pulled apart my rig and no issues with Primo Advanced. Just had some staining from the dye I added to my pastel. Other than that no issues at all


----------



## akira749

I'm on Advanced LRT with Pastel Red and no issues after 3.5 months


----------



## benjorawks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YeAz*
> 
> Thanks for organising the post back to me.....I should have asked you, how long did the liquid run for before it went like that? Starting to put problems down to how long Aurora takes to fade out.
> 
> JUST A WARNING!!! if you are going to start any of my recommendations you are going to need a lot of time and more Aurora (I have about 9 bottles just sitting in my parts cupboard; though stock is hard to find in AUS ), I have seen people spray it at Mick on youtube and forums about the HF's about solving these issues and most just spit it and move to some other fluid. So before you decide what you want to do. Have a think about it...... either way you are lining up to start pulling down your loop. Either for continuing to use Aurora or flushing and cleaning it out for something else. MAYHEM'S Pastels work well. If you are going to change to another fluid you have to find that pearl first and get it out.
> 
> Koolance Quick Disconnects to use when designing system for Aurora!!!! so much time is saved and fluid when wanting to inspect RAD's.
> 
> On a motivating note!!!! AURORA looks off tap!!!! and if you are prepared to put in the time and I believe it is worth it. (I am currently challenged atm trying to put 2 loops into a Thermaltake Armor A30 MicroATX case and trying to build that around Aurora).
> 
> Ok here we go (eliminating AURORA issues)
> 
> First thing to try is crank that pump to lvl 5 because you really need to know what your fluid is flowing like. Maybe tap in a flow metre just to see. I test with a INS-FM16 Coolant Flow Meter from Koolance however I never leave them in the system. Aurora needs flow flow flow and the more you have the better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Secondly, what have you got in place for draining loop. Have you got an off shoot somewhere that I can not see that is G4 plugged. If you have, get rid of it and join the loop back up. These drain plugs and off shoots that people make kill this stuff in less than 24 hours. The pearl just collects in them and the pump just can't get the pearl back out.
> 
> Every system is different with Aurora so when it comes to this fluid you are going to have to strip each part out of the loop for inspection 1 at a time (Except for GPU blocks - no need cause GUP blocks have no hassle with Aurora as yet) however try and do something about getting rid of that 90 degree fitting on the card. Maybe try and reverse the plug to the other side and use a 45 degree fitting. Aurora hates 90 degree fittings in complex loops (however they can be use in simple loops 1 rad 1 pump 1 block 1 rez).
> 
> Next.. the CPU-380i (just letting you know this is an untested block for Aurora) At the moment I am testing EK new block since testing was last done). Remove the block from the loop and open her up. If it is full of Aurora pearls then it is the restriction plate (jet plate) that is causing the issues. Want to keep Aurora going the plate has to go. You should only see 3 degrees maximum difference if you do. With Ek's jet plates I am trailing my own drilled and slotted plates (EK gave users a blank one to make their own - not no more though).
> 
> RAD... where to start with these. I can't see your RX360 in the pix so I cant comment on mounting so I will just give a general Aurora suggestion. RADS are best mounted with the inlet and outlets facing down to stop pearls from collecting in the end tanks and not been picked up again on system start up. (I am testing AlphaCool's 60mm thick RADs atm and already had issues. I am running 1 D5 pump per Rad). You are trying to run a 240 and a 360 on one pump. to combat these problems you have to get your Flow rate up.
> 
> Your Rez is fine tubes are the way to go, vertical or horizontally mounted it does not matter.
> 
> I am not a fan of bolting on D5 pumps to tops and rez all in one for this fluid. Some may show it can be done but it makes it painful for looking for issues. Tops are always different etc etc. I normally use D5 pumps with just a top and keep the rez separate. So I would leave this last to look at on your list.
> 
> Lastly I would call your loop a mid range challenge for Aurora. 2x blocks 1x360RAD 1x240RAD plus a few 45 degree fittings with some 90's All on 1 single D5 pump. If you want it to last and last I have never built a loop that is bigger than 1xblock 1xpump 1xrad 1xrez for this stuff. It guarantees success for fluid over months and months unless you mount the rad 10 feet away from the system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let us know how you go...... or have any other issues.


Thanks! Will have to take some time testing to let you know the outcome! I had it running for about 3 days before it started disappearing..But I believe it was more apparent each time I shutdown the computer...Oh and the RX360 is placed on the top part of the casing with the input and output facing downwards..


----------



## ZytheEKS

Does anyone know where to get the Clear Aurora in the U.S.?

I was looking on the website on the list of resellers and all of them have the "Aurora Supernova" and I can't tell if it's clear or white. :/

Oh, also, I was on the website and um, there's this! http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/chameleon.html


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benjorawks*
> 
> Thanks! Will have to take some time testing to let you know the outcome! I had it running for about 3 days before it started disappearing..But I believe it was more apparent each time I shutdown the computer...Oh and the RX360 is placed on the top part of the casing with the input and output facing downwards..


ok interesting.... for it to go that quick I am guessing it is something that is going on in the gravity feed areas of the loop were it dies out when the machine is off. Maybe the end tank of your vertically mounted 240RAD see if it was reversed having the inlet and outlet at the bottom will cause anything that settles to fire back up again if good flow touches the bottom of that tank. Good way to test that (I know this sounds a little crazy) Turn it up side down leave it a bit and then seat machine in its normal position do that a few times over a 2 min period . Make sure your fill port is tight lol







then within 15secs of doing that, plug it in and fire it up. Good way to test RAD capture of pearl.

Keep us posted how you go though. Post some pix if you can. It would be good to get some user do's and don't up on this forum as well


----------



## kcuestag

I guess I can deal with a ~2ºC increase in my loop with the Pastel fluid!

For now I'm going with the red Advanced LRT and distilled water as I'm going to a lan party next month, but when it's over I'll get some clear advanced LRT and some white pastel!


----------



## Spin Cykle

I've never understood why people like Primochill Advanced LRT. Seems like I see more plasticizer issues with this tubing more than any other brand.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spin Cykle*
> 
> I've never understood why people like Primochill Advanced LRT. Seems like I see more plasticizer issues with this tubing more than any other brand.


It actually is/was one of the most recommended tubing. There were previous batches that had the plasiticizer problem last year, so it's become a more known problem, but it looks like they fixed the more recent batches.

You could compare it to EK's Nickel-plated blocks. Most of them are fine now, but people had major problems a while back and the bad rep stayed.


----------



## trapjaw72

plasticizer issues with this tubing more an more I would never use this tubing Primochill Advanced LRT no way...





















EK water-blocks all i use


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yannickhk*
> 
> has anyone ever tried using Mayhem's pastel with the aqualis reservoir?
> 
> I was wondering how the fountain worked out with this liquid.


I tried a small test setup and it worked ok. I noticed that to get the full effect i only could have the res filled up around half way. My personal opinion is that I like the effect "with the fountain active" of a transparent fluid with LED's vs. pastel, but that's just me. Sorry I don't have a video. To answer your question, yes it works with no issues.


----------



## trapjaw72

with fear of using tubing from now on im going to use only Crystal Link an its well worth it,looks great,Ive never had any trouble with Crystal Link at all plus mayhem's pastel ice white looks so sweet in it....


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> So with your new resources how long till we can have an Aurora coolant that's good for sustained use


If you somehow manage to do this. Gosh I'd take a 3-4 degree hit easy.

EDIT: What maes the coolant a "show only" coolant anyway? Does it break down or does the suspended material just start to fall out? If not, is it the fact that it's not performance oriented?

If that's the only reason, as long as the temps aren't like 10C different, it should be fine right?


----------



## Mayhem

@ZytheEKS PPC or Frozen do Mayhems Aurora Supernova which is the one you are after.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> If you somehow manage to do this. Gosh I'd take a 3-4 degree hit easy.
> 
> EDIT: What maes the coolant a "show only" coolant anyway? Does it break down or does the suspended material just start to fall out? If not, is it the fact that it's not performance oriented?
> 
> If that's the only reason, as long as the temps aren't like 10C different, it should be fine right?


The "Aurora" effect breaks down after a while, and you're left with an pastel coolant type looking solution. I saw a while back that the longest they've managed to keep it running is 9 months, but it normally only lasts about a month or two.

As for your comments about temps, interestingly enough I was reading some tests done by a third party a while ago that showed they had a .2celsius - .7celsius temp difference compared to pure distilled water, which is significantly less compared to many coolants.

Let me see if I can find those tests, hold on.

FOUND EM!
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?279416-Mayhem-s-Aurora-temps-compared-to-X1-amp-Distilled!!!
If you don't feel like reading through that, just check this out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @ZytheEKS PPC or Frozen do Mayhems Aurora Supernova which is the one you are after.


THANKS! Any comment on the Chameleon coolants o,o


----------



## Lynkdev

Im currently using the UV clear blue from Mayhems, and LRT tubing. Do i still need to add something for bacteria or silver spring?


----------



## trapjaw72

100% non toxic, environmentally friendly, contains Biocide and inhibitors.i use it myself no you dont half to add a silver spring bro....Mayherms is the best......


----------



## Lynkdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trapjaw72*
> 
> 100% non toxic, environmentally friendly, contains Biocide and inhibitors.i use it myself no you dont half to add a silver spring bro....Mayherms is the best......


Thanks!~


----------



## trapjaw72

any time my friend......


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lynkdev*
> 
> Im currently using the UV clear blue from Mayhems, and LRT tubing. Do i still need to add something for bacteria or silver spring?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trapjaw72*
> 
> 100% non toxic, environmentally friendly, contains Biocide and inhibitors.i use it myself no you dont half to add a silver spring bro....Mayherms is the best......


Are you using the dye, or the X1 Concentrate? The X1 concentrate contains biocides, and corrosion inhibitors, however; if it's just the 15ml dye concentrate then you'll need a biocide. Mayhems biocide extreme is nice, as it's also a descaling agent.


----------



## trapjaw72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Are you using the dye, or the X1 Concentrate? The X1 concentrate contains biocides, and corrosion inhibitors, however; if it's just the 15ml dye concentrate then you'll need a biocide. Mayhems biocide extreme is nice, as it's also a descaling agent.


........For normal water cooling systems there simply is no better performing liquid than pure water. Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 is the ultimate water which has been filtered to such a high level there simply is no better branded Ultra-Pure water on the market. For this reason alone if you would like the get the most out of your water cooling system temperature wise opt for this. However you do need to also consider a few other factors including which biocide you would like to use as without it over time UV rays can penetrate into your system creating the perfect harbour for bacteria and algae to grow. .....Mayhems X1 Coolants-Mayhems Pastel Coolants-Mayhems Aurora Coolant-Mayhems XT-1----these need no silver coil or biocides at all in them dye is used with Mayhems so you dont need it at all only if you use ultra-pureh-20 needs it

this one you will need to add-biocides in other then that you do not need it where did you get that info....?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trapjaw72*
> 
> ........For normal water cooling systems there simply is no better performing liquid than pure water. Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 is the ultimate water which has been filtered to such a high level there simply is no better branded Ultra-Pure water on the market. For this reason alone if you would like the get the most out of your water cooling system temperature wise opt for this. However you do need to also consider a few other factors including which biocide you would like to use as without it over time UV rays can penetrate into your system creating the perfect harbour for bacteria and algae to grow. .....Mayhems X1 Coolants-Mayhems Pastel Coolants-Mayhems Aurora Coolant-Mayhems XT-1----these need no silver coil or biocides at all in them dye is used with Mayhems so you dont need it at all only if you use ultra-pureh-20 needs it
> 
> this one you will need to add-biocides in other then that you do not need it where did you get that info....?


Mayhems X1 Concentrate, Pastel Coolant concentrate, and Aurora coolant don't need additional biocides because they already have them in the concentrate.
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/aurora.html#.Uck2qp5cOCo
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/x1.html#.Uck2jJ5cOCo
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/pastel.html

I don't know where you're getting your info about Mayhems Distilled being super amazing. Mike said himself all distilled water performs more or less identical, and that the main reason he released it was because it was difficult to find a good ultrapure in some European countries as shipping sometimes got... hefty.

The normal dye concentrates do not contain any biocides, they are just a 15ml bottle of dye.

As to your question wondering about where I'm getting my information, from Mayhems main website, so I would assume from Mike himself.







Not sure why you felt the need to go on about it like that, it appears you just restated what I had said.


----------



## trapjaw72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Mayhems X1 Concentrate, Pastel Coolant concentrate, and Aurora coolant don't need additional biocides because they already have them in the concentrate.
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/aurora.html#.Uck2qp5cOCo
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/x1.html#.Uck2jJ5cOCo
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/pastel.html
> 
> I don't know where you're getting your info about Mayhems Distilled being super amazing. Mike said himself all distilled water performs more or less identical, and that the main reason he released it was because it was difficult to find a good ultrapure in some European countries as shipping sometimes got... hefty.
> 
> The normal dye concentrates do not contain any biocides, they are just a 15ml bottle of dye.
> 
> As to your question wondering about where I'm getting my information, from Mayhems main website, so I would assume from Mike himself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure why you felt the need to go on about it like that, it appears you just restated what I had said.


..........agin you use mayhems dye with mayhems so you do not need too put anything in it like biocides ask the man him self did you read what i put his h-20 was what did need the biocides an thats it no other mayhems does do you need the man him self too tell you that your wrong lol......


----------



## trapjaw72

so if you use mayhems with mayhems dye why would you put more biocides in lol when they have biocides in all the mayhems line......wait i see your going too put just mayhems dye in only right lol,an i never said h-20 was super amazing lol are you new too water-cooling must be....


----------



## YeAz

This whole page of this thread just confuses the hell out of me!


----------



## trapjaw72

i never restated what you said because me an that guy was talking long befor you came in an stated what i was saying lol need go back an look,im done with all this im know im 100 percent right just dont want to go on talking about mayhems ill have the man him self tell you an google is a friend..


----------



## trapjaw72

lol a new guy asked me about mayhems an i told him that biocides was in them an you dont half to ad them,then this guy comes an says well if you use just mayhems dye there is no biocide in the dye itself,but think if you buy mayhems has biocides in it, then add dye to make it darker or what ever you want this guy dont know what he is saying sorry bro this how the thread went was just fine till this agin sorry my friend...


----------



## Mayhem

lol if you have any questions just ask me direct its best not to get caught up in any hype.

More News Mayhems is growing way to fast. were expanding and looking at new lodgings. were going to be moving into 1,5000 square feet soon lol.

Biocides and inhibtors are in

X1, XT1, Pastel, Aurora and any other premix we make.

they are NOT in Dyes or Ultra Pure H20.


----------



## trapjaw72

lol thanks bro got to me fast have a good rest of the day bro....agin thank you....


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Looking for a Pre-Mixed Mayhem clear. Which one is good? Or do I need to buy Pure H20 and need to mix with one of the concentrates?


----------



## trapjaw72

Mayhems Pre-Mix X1 Clear-later you can add mayhems dye if you want to give it colour .my buddy uses it an says it great


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Looking for a Pre-Mixed Mayhem clear. Which one is good? Or do I need to buy Pure H20 and need to mix with one of the concentrates?


If you live in the U.K. you can order premixed liquids off of mayhems main website here:
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/x1-coolants/x1-pre-mix-1ltr.html

Otherwise you can mix the concentrates with in a 1/8th ratio with water, that is 125ml of Concentrate to 1 liter of distilled water.


----------



## Mayhem

250ml Concentrate you need to add water too and are much cheaper to ship. 1 Ltr Premixed Liquids are all ready to go how ever are more expensive to ship.

Concentrates were developed at the request of PPC a while a go so that we could get the products over to the USA cheaply and effectively.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

So these are the 2 that I should get to make a pre-mixed coolant? Interesting way of being cost effective but what do I know about it. Just my thought, it would be just easier to ship 1 liter of pre-mixed coolant. Well unless the X1 can be used with just a regular distilled water then I understand instead of buying Mayhem's Ultra Pure H20 and X1 together.


----------



## Solonowarion

Anyone live in canada and know where to buy di water?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Anyone live in canada and know where to buy di water?


Your local pharmacy


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Anyone live in canada and know where to buy di water?


This is off topic but where did you get your hard acrylic tubing from the only place I found was performancepc with the e22 tubing but the shipping absolutely kills because I'm in Canada


----------



## Noah1

First time using Mayhems Dye and it looks amazing. I just finished this build today. I want to say thank you to *skyn3t* for the *Green Lantern* color of this build.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/80

The Green Lantern Prodigy


----------



## aaron_uf_law

Just wanted to take a minute to post my build. It is still in progress, as I need to do some wire wrapping and wire management. I have had the parts for two years now, but stuffed in a midsize case. (Can you believe that!!!) Anyway, when I upgraded to a CaseLabs case, thought I might try to use dye for the first time. All I can say is that it is awesome!!! What you see is Mayhems Emerald Green UV X1 coolant under two 12 inch UV cold cathode lights. Thanks Mayhem!!!!!

http://s160.photobucket.com/user/aaronuflaw/media/Computer1of2.jpg.html

http://s160.photobucket.com/user/aaronuflaw/media/Computer2of2.jpg.html


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> This is off topic but where did you get your hard acrylic tubing from the only place I found was performancepc with the e22 tubing but the shipping absolutely kills because I'm in Canada


Luckily I live near vancouver and have a p.o. box in washington. I ordered from ppcs

Looking awesome by the way aaron.

Hey guys I got my ph kit. What kind of levels am I shooting for?


----------



## Blackops_2

Primochill just announced their acrylic tubing so imagine it will be easier to get a hold of.




http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/c633/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing_-_Rigid_Acrylic


----------



## Mayhem

E22 have been tubing for quite a while now for PC tubing is nothing new what so ever. http://www.e22.biz


----------



## Lutfij

Mike - I'm going to be doing another build quite soon - the problem is that I'm restricted to a bay res sort of setup due to size. Can I use your dye's and/or your pastel range with the XSPC Bayres 750 rev 4 pump
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17567/ex-res-434/
or the EK bay res with DCP2.2 pump?
really got my back to the wall cos of this constraint.


----------



## Kainn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> Mike - I'm going to be doing another build quite soon - the problem is that I'm restricted to a bay res sort of setup due to size. Can I use your dye's and/or your pastel range with the XSPC Bayres 750 rev 4 pump
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17567/ex-res-434/
> or the EK bay res with DCP2.2 pump?
> 
> really got my back to the wall cos of this constraint.


I used the pastel mint and never had any issues with my xspc pump/rest.


----------



## Lutfij

Could you guide me to a link to your build log







?


----------



## Xyrrath

Gonna jump in the mayhems train. Ordered some Sunset Yellow for my loop but I was wondering what I would need to make it look like this



More specific RAL 1003 (Signal Yellow) i think its 1 or 2 tints darker then the sunset if i am correct

Would love to put this color in my C70 military green case to make it look a but more dangerous/hazardous


----------



## Mayhem

you'll need a touch of red dye


----------



## Xyrrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> you'll need a touch of red dye


Thanks ill order a dye.

EDIT
Does your webshop ship to The Netherlands? None of the stores here sell normal red dye


----------



## Kainn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> Could you guide me to a link to your build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Never made a build log though:/


----------



## Lutfij

I'm not going with the XSPC res - too many failure stories of leak spreading over parts under the res...


----------



## Xyrrath

Found some red dye in germany









sadly shipping cost was more then the dye itself







got to love a expensive hobby haha


----------



## Tomiger

I think this has been asked before but I dunno if there was ever an answer:

Has anyone used any of Mayhem's Pastel in a FrozenQ T-virus reservoir, or anything similar? I was wondering how the helix/cold cathode looks with the dye (does it shine through and look nice, or does it get lost in the liquid?)


----------



## Darkshadow74

I just joined. I am using Mayhems Aurora supernova Silver with Mayhems blue dye. heres a pics.





Have a vid but not sure how to share it here.


----------



## Sunreeper

Omaiiii


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74*
> 
> I just joined. I am using Mayhems Aurora supernova Silver with Mayhems blue dye. heres a pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a vid but not sure how to share it here.


Youtube my good man youtube!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> I think this has been asked before but I dunno if there was ever an answer:
> 
> Has anyone used any of Mayhem's Pastel in a FrozenQ T-virus reservoir, or anything similar? I was wondering how the helix/cold cathode looks with the dye (does it shine through and look nice, or does it get lost in the liquid?)


Pastel coolant is completely opaque, if mixed properly. The lights would get lost in the coolant, however; if it's UV reactive it MIGHT glow as a result of UV cathodes. It would still be lost in the dye, but UV light penetrates a LOT better than the visible light range, so it may give that glow effect if the pastel is UV reactive. I'd be interested to hear if anyone tried a UV reactive mix of pastel with FrozenQ cathodes.


----------



## Mayhem

@Darkshadow74 that Aurora will not last very long in t hat res as its not built for bay reservoirs. to get it to last much longer you need a tube es.

Corrected


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Darkshadow74 that pastel will not last very long in t hat res as its not built for bay reservoirs. to get it to last much longer you need a tube es.


Specifically for Aurora or all pastels? I had planned on using that res for pastel mint green?


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Darkshadow74 that pastel will not last very long in t hat res as its not built for bay reservoirs. to get it to last much longer you need a tube es.
> 
> 
> 
> Specifically for Aurora or all pastels? I had planned on using that res for pastel mint green?
Click to expand...

Pretty sure its specific to aurora


----------



## szeged

hey guys quick question, changing the color scheme of my rig from blue to dark red.

wanted to do blood red in the loop for the darkness factor of it, instead of bright red.

So, does the mayhems X1 blood red concentrate work just like the mayhems dyes? add a bit to some distilled water, mix, and add to the loop, repeat till full?

thanks.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hey guys quick question, changing the color scheme of my rig from blue to dark red.
> 
> wanted to do blood red in the loop for the darkness factor of it, instead of bright red.
> 
> So, does the mayhems X1 blood red concentrate work just like the mayhems dyes? add a bit to some distilled water, mix, and add to the loop, repeat till full?
> 
> thanks.


In fact X1 in a 250ml concentrate format will give you 3liters of coolant once mix with water. So you pre-mix the concentrate and 2.75liters of distilled and add this mix to your loop.

I hope it helps


----------



## szeged

okay thanks, i was just curious if one bottle of it would be enough to fill my loop







didnt want to place the order only to find out id have to wait again for a second shipping lol.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Darkshadow74 that Aurora will not last very long in t hat res as its not built for bay reservoirs. to get it to last much longer you need a tube es.
> 
> Corrected.


----------



## Solonowarion

Thanks mayhems. Testing it with distlled. There seems to be a shortage of di. I saw it a few months ago and its nowhere to be found. I forget who it was that said theirs worked fine with distiled so maybe it was my system or that type of pastel.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Thanks mayhems. Testing it with distlled. There seems to be a shortage of di. I saw it a few months ago and its nowhere to be found. I forget who it was that said theirs worked fine with distiled so maybe it was my system or that type of pastel.


This is what I used

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14369/ex-liq-194/PrimoChill_Base_Intensified_-_High_Purity_Deionized_Water_-_1_Gallon_-_Clear_PC-BASE128.html?tl=g30c337s886


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> This is what I used
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14369/ex-liq-194/PrimoChill_Base_Intensified_-_High_Purity_Deionized_Water_-_1_Gallon_-_Clear_PC-BASE128.html?tl=g30c337s886


Thank you I may have to get that.


----------



## snef

im really surprised, I saw no one with purple pastel or talk about purple pastel

I really like it ,

if I look on pics on every onlne store, pastel purple seem to be more blue than purple, false

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/purple Chimera/IMG_0057_zps4706b387.jpg.html

its really purple, and my pic is not correct because its more purple than my pics

this will be perfect for my Purple Chimera project


----------



## Mayhem

@snef you are correct ref the colours in pictures how ever the pastel colours do soak up light, there for getting a perfect picture is not easy







.


----------



## trapjaw72

look's really nice,that mayhem's purple pastel look's so so sweet with the purple sleeving.....just pop's out great job my friend.......


----------



## devsfan1830

Hey, question about letting a system sit idle with Mayhems xt-1 and blue dye. Im moving and due to the move I will be leaving my system idle for about 1-2 weeks. Im just wondering if letting the mix sit for this long will cause it to fall out of suspension and settle in the blocks and res and basically ruin the mix. The mix is only a few weeks old and id rather not drain it if i dont need too. Im not worried about transport leaks, i have quick disconnects between every block, res and pump and will be moving them separately anyways since my rig is incredibly heavy if i dont.


----------



## Mayhem

XT1 will be fine left to stand.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> im really surprised, I saw no one with purple pastel or talk about purple pastel
> 
> I really like it ,
> 
> if I look on pics on every onlne store, pastel purple seem to be more blue than purple, false
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/purple Chimera/IMG_0057_zps4706b387.jpg.html
> 
> its really purple, and my pic is not correct because its more purple than my pics
> 
> this will be perfect for my Purple Chimera project


Is that the pastel raspberry purple? If so, I've been using it for a while now and it's been great.


----------



## trapjaw72

I think my next build going to use pastel raspberry purple, just look's so good.......


----------



## MainStageNews

One of the biggest benefits, besides aesthetics, to using acrylic tubing over normal tubing is it will take much loner (if it will at all) to stain your components. The reason is because regular tubing has plasticizer in it which can cause damage to your waterblocks and obviously acrylic does not. So I was wondering, Mayhems Aurora can be one of the better looking coolants out there but your not suppose to use it over long periods of time because it can stain and or cause damage to your water cooling components. If you used only acrylic would it be viable to use Mayhems aurora over long periods of time with out need for worry?


----------



## Xyrrath

For tubing it wont be a problems. With aurora the problems are the pearls that will start blocking canals in your blocks and affecting your pumps etc because of the pearls setting in


----------



## YeAz

Please Refer to page 238 for Aurora specific problems or the wiki.

Making claim that the 60nm sized particles in Aurora can block canals that are 0.3mm thick in blocks is absurd and stating something like that without photos or proof to assist others does not do this thread, Mick (Mayhems) or his products any good.







Stating that it affects pumps; sorry have not seen that yet in the time I have been using the fluid. You must be referring to the un-recommended drive-bay res and pump combos that are listed as fail on the wiki and not to be used with the fluid.

Aurora falls into suppression if you do not plan your loop right or buy non recommended parts. It can build up if you restrict flow or build loops that are so complex that you need a street map. It fails if your flow rate is piss poor, it destroys systems if you put a filter in the loop.

MainStageNews, I can tell you that tubing is the least of your issues when using Aurora, please read Mayhems wiki carefully and page 238 I think it is where I have given up date ideas on this fluid.

Basically you need to decide one thing here, are you prepared to put in the high end spanner time for the looks of fluid







Are you prepared to mod a case to get it to work for a long time (if needed), Are you prepared to redesign your loop if you have issues, if YES enjoy your tinkering and results. It is a high maintenance fluid with high maintenance needs.

There are plenty of people here that can help you out along the way if you decide to go ahead with the use of the fluid

















Best of luck


----------



## trapjaw72

hello it could have not been put any better then how you said it bro, great job....


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> XT1 will be fine left to stand.


I was wondering if i can use the Mayhem's Aurora Fluid with Phobya XTREME NOVA 1080 ( 9 x 120mm) Radiator
Swiftech MCP655™ 12 VDC Laing D5 Vario Pump With speed controller , ek cpu block and ek universal gpu water block.
Do i need two pumps??
I read that this fluid is not good for big radiator but i dont look for perfomance but for silent sistem.
And i dont care if is only for 6 month.
Can i use it anyway without big problems??
thanks


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> I was wondering if i can use the Mayhem's Aurora Fluid with Phobya XTREME NOVA 1080 ( 9 x 120mm) Radiator
> Swiftech MCP655™ 12 VDC Laing D5 Vario Pump With speed controller , ek cpu block and ek universal gpu water block.
> Do i need two pumps??
> I read that this fluid is not good for big radiator but i dont look for perfomance but for slient sistem.
> And i dont care if is only for 6 month.
> thanks


D5 pumps no issues as long at they are set around 4 to 5 depending on your flow rate and size of loop.

EK blocks atm I am testing with modified restriction plates, it is recommended to remove the plates altogether.

Universal GPU blocks, never used one, all my blocks have been full cover blocks sorry







but as stated the blocks channels cant be smaller than 0.3mm so I would not think there would be a problem.

Regarding the RAD (I am assuming here) I have never ever seen one used with Aurora. Bare in mind something that big may cause issues, all I can say is use at your own risk.


----------



## pompss

thanks of the answer
yes the problems is the rad .
But i looking for something very silent so this rad will be perfect.
i guess two pumps should be ok with the aurora


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> thanks of the answer
> yes the problems is the rad .
> But i looking for something very silent so this rad will be perfect.
> i guess two pumps should be ok with the aurora


I was just having a look at ERM-3K3UC Liquid Cooling System, Copper Rev1.1 from Koolance on their website.

It uses their 9x120mm rad if you look in the internal pics. They are utilising a D5 x1 pump however it is their 24v version.
Adding 2 blocks or more just dunno. Try it with 1 pump first add a second later if you want to save Cash, but it is good to have a spare pump lying around non the less.

If you are going to go ahead with this experiment keep us posted, would love to see how it turns out. Mick will post results on Wiki also stating you have tested that RAD


----------



## Mayhem

Hi there i wouldn't recommend very large rads (by any one) as the folds in the rads are like traps for aurora and it will lose its effect very quickly.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YeAz*
> 
> Please Refer to page 238 for Aurora specific problems or the wiki.
> 
> Making claim that the 60nm sized particles in Aurora can block canals that are 0.3mm thick in blocks is absurd and stating something like that without photos or proof to assist others does not do this thread, Mick (Mayhems) or his products any good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stating that it affects pumps; sorry have not seen that yet in the time I have been using the fluid. You must be referring to the un-recommended drive-bay res and pump combos that are listed as fail on the wiki and not to be used with the fluid.
> 
> Aurora falls into suppression if you do not plan your loop right or buy non recommended parts. It can build up if you restrict flow or build loops that are so complex that you need a street map. It fails if your flow rate is piss poor, it destroys systems if you put a filter in the loop.
> 
> MainStageNews, I can tell you that tubing is the least of your issues when using Aurora, please read Mayhems wiki carefully and page 238 I think it is where I have given up date ideas on this fluid.
> 
> Basically you need to decide one thing here, are you prepared to put in the high end spanner time for the looks of fluid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you prepared to mod a case to get it to work for a long time (if needed), Are you prepared to redesign your loop if you have issues, if YES enjoy your tinkering and results. It is a high maintenance fluid with high maintenance needs.
> 
> There are plenty of people here that can help you out along the way if you decide to go ahead with the use of the fluid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck


thank you i couldn't put it any better my self.


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi there i wouldn't recommend very large rads (by any one) as the folds in the rads are like traps for aurora and it will lose its effect very quickly.


I thought that would be the case. I have never used such a large RAD so I did not really want to make a comment


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> thank you i couldn't put it any better my self.


LOL I got a bit carried away there...... I just support the fluid and think it is great to work with. The ohhhh, and ummmms and WHOOOs you get from people that have never seen it gets me every time.

Great Fluid, Great Product, Great service!!!! - back in my box I go now heheheheee


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi there i wouldn't recommend very large rads (by any one) as the folds in the rads are like traps for aurora and it will lose its effect very quickly.


what min rad would you raccomend for aurora in order to keep the effect as long as possible??
I also looking at loop as much as possibile quite very quite
i have to cool i7 3820 and gtx 770
any suggestions?


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi there i wouldn't recommend very large rads (by any one) as the folds in the rads are like traps for aurora and it will lose its effect very quickly.


XSPC RX480 Quad 120mm Radiator will be fine???
or better XSPC RX320?


----------



## Mayhem

240 , 260, 120, 140, 320 single pass are all good. quad pass & hex pass 360 can be a nightmare especially the ones we produced. Not one rad is the same as they are all very different.

Well more news... Mayhems has expanded quite a bit more. we now have a new office / research and manufacturing plant/unit. Since Friday we've been moving in and as of this Friday coming it will be finished.

Since we have moved we have managed to get the water down now to 0.001 TDS ....... Whoot we all so now have room to bulk buy 60,000 bottles in at a time ... Not bad since 5 years ago we only produced 24 bottles in a day and could only store 100 bottles.. more new will follow with some more developments from us.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 240 , 260, 120, 140, 320 single pass are all good. quad pass & hex pass 360 can be a nightmare especially the ones we produced. Not one rad is the same as they are all very different.
> 
> Well more news... Mayhems has expanded quite a bit more. we now have a new office / research and manufacturing plant/unit. Since Friday we've been moving in and as of this Friday coming it will be finished.
> 
> Since we have moved we have managed to get the water down now to 0.001 TDS ....... Whoot we all so now have room to bulk buy 60,000 bottles in at a time ... Not bad since 5 years ago we only produced 24 bottles in a day and could only store 100 bottles.. more new will follow with some more developments from us.


Thanks a lot.
I see the post of Norman .
He used for more then 8 months without losing the aurora effect.So for me 6 month will be perfect.
I also see your post one year ago about the aurora 2 coming out.
Just curious if you are still working on this and when you guyz suppose to release it.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Want to purchase the best clear Coolant Mayhem has, which do I purchase from P-PC?


----------



## Xyrrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 240 , 260, 120, 140, 320 single pass are all good. quad pass & hex pass 360 can be a nightmare especially the ones we produced. Not one rad is the same as they are all very different.
> 
> Well more news... Mayhems has expanded quite a bit more. we now have a new office / research and manufacturing plant/unit. Since Friday we've been moving in and as of this Friday coming it will be finished.
> 
> Since we have moved we have managed to get the water down now to 0.001 TDS ....... Whoot we all so now have room to bulk buy 60,000 bottles in at a time ... Not bad since 5 years ago we only produced 24 bottles in a day and could only store 100 bottles.. more new will follow with some more developments from us.


Congratulations with your expanding company. Its something you deserve aswell because you guys show how every company should be.

Perfect Customer Service and an amazing product line


----------



## trapjaw72

sweet mayhem's is the best all I use, great new's........







...







...


----------



## newmindsets

*Filling The Loop*


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Want to purchase the best clear Coolant Mayhem has, which do I purchase from P-PC?


I was told by Mayhems in a email X1 and XT-1 are about equivalent. Both are concentrates you mix with deionized/disitilled water. The X1 is non-glycol based so its slightly thicker but theres only a 1-2 degree average temp difference. I opted for XT-1 with primochill advanced LRT and so far its crystal clear (well clear blue as I dyed mine with deep blue dye) with no fogging just yet. But its only a month or so old. Id say your good with either type of additive so its a coin flip really. Mayhems also advises against any extra anticorrosion and biocide additives as the premix already has them.


----------



## trapjaw72

sweet my next build going to use it, great job bro.....


----------



## failwheeldrive

Hey guys, I'll be using Mint Green Pastel in my upcoming water cooling build and there are a couple things I'm still not totally clear about. From what I've read on the Mayhems website and this thread, it's my understanding that using deionized water is recommended when mixing Pastel coolant. I'm just wondering, since distilled water should also be free of ions (and generally cleaner than DI water) what are the risks in using it? I'm fine with using DI, though it's much more expensive than distilled since I'll have to order it online. I saw Solonwarion's post warning against distilled after his black pastel turned brown, but I don't remember seeing an explanation for why distilled could cause an issue like this.

Also, I ended up buying Primochill Advanced LRT after seeing several Mayhems users recommend it in this thread. Are there any long term LRT owners out there that have used Pastel in their rigs? I'm just wondering what life expectancy I can expect out of the tubing before it becomes heavily stained or clouded.

And finally, how would you guys recommend cleaning the loop before using Pastel? Should I rinse the components individually before installing them, or would it make sense to build the loop and flush it with DI before filling it with Pastel? If flushing the components before installation, is it ok to use tap water first and then rinse with DI?

Thanks for your help! I'm looking forward to joining the Mayhems club







There are some incredible builds in this thread (and the watercooling section in general), and without all of your work I wouldn't have been inspired to take the leap into wc myself


----------



## newmindsets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Hey guys, I'll be using Mint Green Pastel in my upcoming water cooling build and there are a couple things I'm still not totally clear about. From what I've read on the Mayhems website and this thread, it's my understanding that using deionized water is recommended when mixing Pastel coolant. I'm just wondering, since distilled water should also be free of ions (and generally cleaner than DI water) what are the risks in using it? I'm fine with using DI, though it's much more expensive than distilled since I'll have to order it online. I saw Solonwarion's post warning against distilled after his black pastel turned brown, but I don't remember seeing an explanation for why distilled could cause an issue like this.
> 
> Also, I ended up buying Primochill Advanced LRT after seeing several Mayhems users recommend it in this thread. Are there any long term LRT owners out there that have used Pastel in their rigs? I'm just wondering what life expectancy I can expect out of the tubing before it becomes heavily stained or clouded.
> 
> And finally, how would you guys recommend cleaning the loop before using Pastel? Should I rinse the components individually before installing them, or would it make sense to build the loop and flush it with DI before filling it with Pastel? If flushing the components before installation, is it ok to use tap water first and then rinse with DI?
> 
> Thanks for your help! I'm looking forward to joining the Mayhems club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are some incredible builds in this thread (and the watercooling section in general), and without all of your work I wouldn't have inspired to take the leap into wc myself


I used Pastel with distilled, and it seems fine to me. I also use Advanced LRT, and if you buy a retail 10ft package, it comes with this stuff thats meant to flush out your system. When I did my leak test with distilled water I added some of that stuff.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newmindsets*
> 
> I used Pastel with distilled, and it seems fine to me. I also use Advanced LRT, and if you buy a retail 10ft package, it comes with this stuff thats meant to flush out your system. When I did my leak test with distilled water I added some of that stuff.


Thanks for the input







Wish I had gotten the retail package instead of buying by the foot. If I make another order sometime soon I'll ago ahead and pick up an extra 10ft.

Love the purple btw.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> I was told by Mayhems in a email X1 and XT-1 are about equivalent. Both are concentrates you mix with deionized/disitilled water. The X1 is non-glycol based so its slightly thicker but theres only a 1-2 degree average temp difference. I opted for XT-1 with primochill advanced LRT and so far its crystal clear (well clear blue as I dyed mine with deep blue dye) with no fogging just yet. But its only a month or so old. Id say your good with either type of additive so its a coin flip really. Mayhems also advises against any extra anticorrosion and biocide additives as the premix already has them.


Spot on advice







.

@failwheeldrive Di should be fine, Black is a itchy little bugger than can lose its color because of temperamental red thatch in it. Large changes in PH balance can cause this issue.

We've used pastel a very long time with slight clouding issues over time. This is not noticeable with pastel as its a solid colour.

For rinsing we firth flush with tap water then add small amount of backing soda and DI water and rinse though the system then finally we rinse with Di water again. Then add product.

*Thank you every one else for all the input your putting into this thread your advise and help is invaluable.*


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Spot on advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> @failwheeldrive Di should be fine, Black is a itchy little bugger than can lose its color because of temperamental red thatch in it. Large changes in PH balance can cause this issue.
> 
> We've used pastel a very long time with slight clouding issues over time. This is not noticeable with pastel as its a solid colour.
> 
> For rinsing we firth flush with tap water then add small amount of backing soda and DI water and rinse though the system then finally we rinse with Di water again. Then add product.
> 
> *Thank you every one else for all the input your putting into this thread your advise and help is invaluable.*


Thanks so much for your help, I feel a lot more comfortable with trying it out now







Though just to be safe I bought a couple extra bottles of the concentrate lol. +rep!


----------



## Xyrrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Spot on advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> @failwheeldrive Di should be fine, Black is a itchy little bugger than can lose its color because of temperamental red thatch in it. Large changes in PH balance can cause this issue.
> 
> We've used pastel a very long time with slight clouding issues over time. This is not noticeable with pastel as its a solid colour.
> 
> For rinsing we firth flush with tap water then add small amount of backing soda and DI water and rinse though the system then finally we rinse with Di water again. Then add product.
> 
> *Thank you every one else for all the input your putting into this thread your advise and help is invaluable.*


Just normal Baking Soda in those little baggies?



I don't think its the right product tho.

Maybe its like the soda in the cleaning isle?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyrrath*
> 
> Just normal Baking Soda in those little baggies?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think its the right product tho.
> 
> Maybe its like the soda in the cleaning isle?


Baking powder and baking soda are different substances. I'm assuming Mayhem meant sodium bicarbonate (ie baking soda), which like you said can be found in the cleaning isle.


----------



## Xyrrath

The cleaning soda in Netherlands is Sodium carbonate decahydrate i guess this is the product i want?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyrrath*
> 
> The cleaning soda in Netherlands is Sodium carbonate decahydrate i guess this is the product i want?


I hadn't heard of sodium decahydrate before; apparently it's a different chemical used in detergents but I'm not sure if it would be safe to use in a loop. I've done some Googling and found that baking soda is harder to find in the Netherlands than the UK or US, but can be found in some drugstores and supermarkets under the name "zuiveringszout."


----------



## Xyrrath

Will check some supermarkets tommorow after work. Lots of supermarkets these days have special American sections (tiny 1meter section) with American stuff maybe i am lucky and they got it in there


----------



## trapjaw72

in the Netherlands I dont know if you have this shop - http://www.thomasgreens.com/holland/ -- but the have all kind's of American stuff on this web-site,............


----------



## Xyrrath

Just 150km away XD would be awsome if they were closer


----------



## YeAz

I Know these are a little bit late!! sozzz
Just thought I will post some early pics of my current build *In Progress*.................I call it...."BlowN"







- Cause hell will freeze over before I can mount those 60mm x2 RAD in that case!

THANKS NAM and Mick for all your help with this one. It is almost done.

Some Teaser Pics. Hate posting Pic about gear so the Vid will be uploaded when it is all done.



Build On Air!!! *BS* - just doing first posts to make sure there are no RMA!!!!


Two complete loops to be put in an Micro_ATX Thermaltake Armour A30










Mayhem's Aurora behind the pump tops







Great stuff!!!!









Anyways back to the drilling, cutting and bending to get all this to fit together. This would have to be my most challenging build yet.


----------



## Sunreeper

Build log?


----------



## YeAz

I will get all that up once she is finished


----------



## trapjaw72

going to be one bad water-cooling set up when it's done.....


----------



## YeAz

BAD? lol I know what you mean







it is going to be the biggest HF!! to fill and drain......


----------



## kcuestag

Hello guys, I plan on changing my rig to clear tubing and white pastel in a month or so, and I'm wondering how much Pastel I'd need for my loop. I use somewhere between 1L and 1.5L.


----------



## Xyrrath

2x 1l bottle


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyrrath*
> 
> 2x 1l bottle


I thought you could mix it with distilled (or deionized water) instead of just using Pastel? 250ml Bottle of Pastel is already expensive, can't imagine 2x 1L bottles.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I thought you could mix it with distilled (or deionized water) instead of just using Pastel? 250ml Bottle of Pastel is already expensive, can't imagine 2x 1L bottles.


Yes you can buy 2 250ml bottles of concentrate. Each one (when mixed with distilled or deionized) will give you 1 liter of coolant. So you end up with 2 liters of coolant.


----------



## Xyrrath

Ah didnt know you were going for concentrate









Confused about that because I ordered premix myself sorry for that


----------



## NostraD

Speaking of pastels - I have been trying to find some pastel ice white here in the states with no luck! All the vendors have been sold out for months! (PerfPCs, FrozenCPU, Xoxide, just to name a few). I've emailed the vendors I typically buy with, but no response yet. Any ideas where I might find some here in the U.S.?


----------



## Xyrrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NostraD*
> 
> Speaking of pastels - I have been trying to find some pastel ice white here in the states with no luck! All the vendors have been sold out for months! (PerfPCs, FrozenCPU, Xoxide, just to name a few). I've emailed the vendors I typically buy with, but no response yet. Any ideas where I might find some here in the U.S.?


Best bet is to get it from europe then i guess


----------



## YeAz

Fresh ones, straight from Mick's new warehouse


----------



## NostraD

Wow I was worried that it would be too pricey ordering direct from overseas - but it was actually just a few dollars more than the US stores!








Thanks for the suggestion - I should have thought of it myself!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yes you can buy 2 250ml bottles of concentrate. Each one (when mixed with distilled or deionized) will give you 1 liter of coolant. So you end up with 2 liters of coolant.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyrrath*
> 
> Ah didnt know you were going for concentrate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Confused about that because I ordered premix myself sorry for that


Thanks guys.

What's the difference between Concentrate and pre-mix? I can only find the 250ml version of White Pastel here in Spain, and it's around 15€ (Close to $20).


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Thanks guys.
> 
> What's the difference between Concentrate and pre-mix? I can only find the 250ml version of White Pastel here in Spain, and it's around 15€ (Close to $20).


Very little, other than you need to add distilled water.
250ml of concentrate to 2 liters of distilled water.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 250ml Concentrate you need to add water too and are much cheaper to ship. 1 Ltr Premixed Liquids are all ready to go how ever are more expensive to ship.
> 
> Concentrates were developed at the request of PPC a while a go so that we could get the products over to the USA cheaply and effectively.


----------



## Mayhem

Concentrate is just that all you do is add water, premixed is ready a ready to go liquid but costs a lot more to ship.. If you ever get stuck you can order direct from us. www.mayhems.co.uk we how ever our re sellers should be able to ship to you cheaper than we can.

Just to show you some thing a little different, Torrey Hughes a maker of live art is using our products in his latest master peaces. These Guitars are used by some of the biggest artist in rock.







This is Mayhems UV Laser Green gone into this peace. Like our Motto "We give you the tools, You make the master peace."




This particular peace is going into the Mercedes Benz commercial.


----------



## YeAz

Looks nice. If only they can do that to my drum kit!!!!


----------



## OPanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 250ml of concentrate to 2 liters of distilled water.


250ml of concrentrate to 750ml of distiller water, actually.
Quote:


> Add 750mls of Purified water to 250ml of concentrate to make 1Ltr of liquid


----------



## darwing

I know Ive asked this before I cant remember if anyone asked it, has anyone used meyhems liquid with a frozen reservoir? does it defeat the purpose for the frozen Q cause its so thick ?

anyone got pics? Im thinking of getting a custom res made by frozen Q and want to use the Meyhems Gold..


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPanda*
> 
> 250ml of concrentrate to 750ml of distiller water, actually.


Oh, pastel right







I was thinking the X1 concentrate XD

So yeah, do like OPanda said.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> I know Ive asked this before I cant remember if anyone asked it, has anyone used meyhems liquid with a frozen reservoir? does it defeat the purpose for the frozen Q cause its so thick ?
> 
> anyone got pics? Im thinking of getting a custom res made by frozen Q and want to use the Meyhems Gold..


I'll be using Mayhems Aurora Supernova coolant with Clear/UV Blue dye concentrate, and I have a FrozenQ Warp Drive L.E. res, I'll throw up some pics when I do. Probably won't be for around a month or so. Hoping to install a direct die TEC when I do maintenance, so it'll probably be later than sooner.


----------



## Lutfij

I wonder if the blue man group would ask Mike for some dye







and then we can have a ball looking at the awesome colors flying!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> I wonder if the blue man group would ask Mike for some dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then we can have a ball looking at the awesome colors flying!


Use an Aurora like liquid on a waterfall pressed up against glass as a stage background, or something like that? T'would be an interesting feat for sure, but I'm not sure it would be practical from a budget standpoint. Then again, neither is anything they do, so.....


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Use an Aurora like liquid on a waterfall pressed up against glass as a stage background, or something like that? T'would be an interesting feat for sure, but I'm not sure it would be practical from a budget standpoint. Then again, neither is anything they do, so.....


Actually we've created some thing like this for a bubble wall for some one. When creating some thing in Bulk the price is a lot cheaper and we don't need to use as much chemicals due to mass.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Actually we've created some thing like this for a bubble wall for some one. When creating some thing in Bulk the price is a lot cheaper and we don't need to use as much chemicals due to mass.


Pictures please? That sounds awesome!


----------



## Mayhem

We don't have any pics we just make the liquids and send them to consumers. They tell us what they need and if they send us pics afterwards bill, if not its no loss to us :0.


----------



## PinzaC55

Just a quick question - I started my first WC in January using Mayhems X1 UV Red coolant and there "was" a bit of what I can best describe as "froth" on the top of the coolant in my reservoir. I say "was" because I just added my GPU to the loop so I did a full drain. Is there any possibility this is Algae or if not, what causes it? When I drained the coolant into a plastic container there nothing that looked like algae so I am guessing it is something else.


----------



## Mayhem

froth can be from several things.one is any residue from production of the water cooling kit, or it could be the Surfactant in the water cooling fluids


----------



## PinzaC55

Oh OK thanks! I wasn't sure what a "Surfactant" was so I looked it up on Wikipedia - blinded with science


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PinzaC55*
> 
> Oh OK thanks! I wasn't sure what a "Surfactant" was so I looked it up on Wikipedia - blinded with science


----------



## YeAz

AURORA EK Supremacy CPU Waterblocks PASS! with some interesting results.

Hi Mick you can throw these up on your Wiki as test and pass, however people need to remember all other elements when building loops for Aurora











In this picture you see two of the three jet plates that come with the block itself. Please do not use J1 which is this pre-installed one. Replace with J3 plate as ticked in the picture. However I believe that EK are now pre-installing all blocks with J3 plates. Please check your block though you might have an old pre packed one.



In this picture I have highlighted the areas that the J3 plate manipulates in the block. This is where things get interesting for Aurora.

1. Green Area = Plate has no manipulation to coolant flow. Jet plate sits flush with block top
2. Red Area = Jet plate blocks off area to make an even space with the other side of the block top. This makes an even long oval shape
3 Blue Area = Jet plate forms a seal with inner gasket against the fins on the heat plate

Interesting fact here is that using the J3 plate is more efficient than using no jet plate at all (un restricted). If you use no plate at all you are only sealing the inner gasket over the fins of the heat plate. J3 actually acts as a better seal for the block overall (As seen in the blue area)

J3's red area actually allows the coolant an extra step with its 60m particles to prevent them just smashing into the fins of the heat plate and dispersing without a bit of a control motion. This step uniforms the area for the coolant to pass, as well as guiding it through the fins of the heat plate with the metal on metal seal. (James Seddon's You Tube Videos suggests the unrestricted issue, because in his videos he tested Aurora without a restriction plate and gives evidence that his cpu loop did not last as long as his gpu).



This pic is just showing you that with the J3 plate installed you can see where the Jet plate creates that step for a bit more control and increase in guidance into the fins of the heat plate (Red Area).



This pic is just showing you that with J3 plate installed you can see that the Jet plate does sit flush with the rest of the block on the right side (marked green)

So with this block Aurora has no issues with the J3 plate installed. You get to keep your temps and allow the fluid to operate with better guidance through the fins. Also you get to keep the recommended set up EK's has for these blocks.

I have one block going in the other half's pc with a modified J3 plate where I cut with a file a triangle in the step, it really has not made a difference and not worth doing.

Hope this helps anyone out with using this block with Aurora. With the right loop set up and use of this block I say you can hold the liquid 7 months plus. Will confirm this once my pc has done this time.

Happy Moddin and Tubin people


----------



## friskiest

A few people have been asking what the difference in looks are between Pastel Black and X1-Oil Black, so I took some photos to illustrate


*Pastel Pink, Pastel White, Pastel Black and X1 - Oil Black*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




*Primochill Advanced LRT 1/2-3/4 Clear.*

*Pastel Black, X1-Oil Black, Pastel White & Pastel Pink.*
*Fittings for color reference.*




*Pastel Black & X1-Oil Black side by side.*

*Pastel Black*

*Pastel Black*

*X1-Oil Black*

*X1-Oil Black*

*Pastel Pink*

*Pastel White*




*'Ribena effect' of the X1-Oil Black.*

*X1-Oil Black & Pastel Black ISO3200*




And, this is what all of the above looks like in white xspc tubing









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## trapjaw72

all mayhem's fluids look great but myself, love Pastel ice white look's so good,...........


----------



## Xyrrath

The more you see the Pastel pink the better it looks. Amazing color


----------



## trapjaw72

my sister's birthday coming up soon, I think ill build her gaming pc/////htpc water-cooled, an I will use mayhem's Pastel pink.........


----------



## jiJa

some dirty oldschool handy pic








love my paste ice white, just have 2 finish the gpu-bridge, change the asusmosfet with some mips it should be the way i like.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/577/w8kn.jpg/


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> I know Ive asked this before I cant remember if anyone asked it, has anyone used meyhems liquid with a frozen reservoir? does it defeat the purpose for the frozen Q cause its so thick ?
> 
> anyone got pics? Im thinking of getting a custom res made by frozen Q and want to use the Meyhems Gold..


I've asked this before and seen several others, without much luck. But I found someone who used Pastel in a frozenq helix res and it pretty much hides/covers the glowing helix, except near the edges. That info changed my decision to just use mayhem's dye.



He told me that only the parts of the helix close to the edge can be seen, which he likes. Personally, I'd want more of it to be seen.

Here's the original thread (go down a few posts to see, his original post has a more updated rig): http://www.overclock.net/t/1227103/build-log-captivity-now-with-caselabs


----------



## nono0044

Sorry if this has been asked before, but what would I have to mix with the Pastel Mint Green to match the MDPC-X Toxic sleeve colour?


----------



## Mayhem

If it a dark green then add blue (only a tiny amount) if it a light green add yellow,


----------



## jd2195

If I am using X1 UV Blue coolant can I leave the system off for a week without causing any harm to the loop?


----------



## golfergolfer

Just curious going to be filling up my loop with Blueberry Pastel later today (Hopefully) but where can I store the extras? Can I just keep it in a plastic water bottle? Like the disposable ones after rinsing it with some DI water?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Just curious going to be filling up my loop with Blueberry Pastel later today (Hopefully) but where can I store the extras? Can I just keep it in a plastic water bottle? Like the disposable ones after rinsing it with some DI water?


Depending on the quantity I have left, I'm keeping it in the original Mayhems concentrate bottle if it's a quantity smaller or equal to 250ml. If it's greater, i'm keeping it in a plastic jar with a sealed cover like the example below.


----------



## golfergolfer

Hmm interesting looks like I need to get myself a jar. I will have 400ml left over as my loop only needs 600


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jd2195*
> 
> If I am using X1 UV Blue coolant can I leave the system off for a week without causing any harm to the loop?


Yes, It will be fine.


----------



## jd2195

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Yes, It will be fine.


Ok great. Thanks


----------



## golfergolfer

Just finished this up what do you guys think? Using Pastel Blue Berry Blue with UV Clear Blue and some Dark Blue Dye













Log Below:
[Build Log] [Completed] C O M P A C T - S P L A S H - 0 0 8 ☜(ﾟヮﾟ☜)


----------



## szeged

So my mayhems blood red is more of a mayhems doodoo brown for some reason. Can I add some red to try to fix it, or should I just drain it andmake my own blood red? Ill post pics of the situation after work.


----------



## Xyrrath

I am really confused right now

On the Mayhems shop it says Tygon e1000 plasi free tubing is good to use with Pastel Fluids so I ordered it (not on Mayhem site). Now I was browsing the website and is says not to use the tygon tubing at all







and I get the feeling i wasted money

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/plasticizer-free-tygon-e1000-1-2od.-id-3-8.-clone.html "*Perfect for Mayhems Pastel range of fluids.*"

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/pastel.html#.Ud6WeG0iy6c "*Do not use Mayhems Pastel with Primochill tubing or Tygon tubing as Mayhems Pastel seems to react with it changing the colour of the tubing to a greenish colour.* "


----------



## Mayhem

@szeged your PH is out that has lead to the red to fading (it c cannot be fixed) and created your do do colour... Send us your name, address, telephone no and a picture of you receipt (in pm) and we will ship you some more out. How ever before using it this time flush you system correctly else it will just happen again.

@Xyrrat The shop is being worked on , new web site ect ect,. Platersizer free tubing is good to go.


----------



## trapjaw72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @szeged your PH is out that has lead to the red to fading (it c cannot be fixed) and created your do do colour... Send us your name, address, telephone no and a picture of you receipt (in pm) and we will ship you some more out. How ever before using it this time flush you system correctly else it will just happen again.
> 
> @Xyrrat The shop is being worked on , new web site ect ect,. Platersizer free tubing is good to go.[/quot
> 
> see this is what make's mayhems number 1, mayhem's stands behind what they sell, even if thing's goes wrong here too help you 100 percent, even ship you out a new order why mayhems is the best hand's down............


----------



## Xyrrath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @szeged your PH is out that has lead to the red to fading (it c cannot be fixed) and created your do do colour... Send us your name, address, telephone no and a picture of you receipt (in pm) and we will ship you some more out. How ever before using it this time flush you system correctly else it will just happen again.
> 
> @Xyrrat The shop is being worked on , new web site ect ect,. Platersizer free tubing is good to go.


Roger that


----------



## szeged

Do you think I can drain my loop then fill it with a vinegar/water solution to clean it and help bring the ph levels back to normal? Or would the vinegar damage the tubing/O rings?


----------



## trapjaw72

Best thing for the staining an ph is hot water and vinegar.
Take it completely apart and remove O-ring and keep them away from vinegar.
Let it soak for about and hour then use a rag, do not use anything abrasive.

Once it's clean use distilled water a thoroughly rinse.
The put it all back together and don't forget o-rings..................


----------



## szeged

Was hoping I could do it without taking the loop apart, getting all the leaks out of the loop in this new build was the biggest pain in the ads lol. Oh well, I gotta get more dye anyways, so I have about a day for it to get cleaned anyways.


----------



## trapjaw72

too do it right what I would do my friend, but it's up too you good-luck.........


----------



## Mayhem

Vingar = acid = not actually that good unless you neutralize it with Bicarbonate of soda afterwards. Your after a PH level between 6.5 and 8.5, 7.5 if the near perfect balance.

PM me you details ill see what i can do for you.


----------



## Luiyt

Hello. I'm looking for some advice on how to make a pastel coolant this purple colour.

All help will be appreciated!


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Vingar = acid = not actually that good unless you neutralize it with Bicarbonate of soda afterwards. Your after a PH level between 6.5 and 8.5, 7.5 if the near perfect balance.


This seems to be such an old trend this use of Vinegar.... It seems that a lot of people still do this. It is really not necessary..... in fact I have always been anti vinegar if you ask me. I think people go along the lines "it will clean good so that must be good?" however we forget that we do not use vinegar to flush out our car's systems or boats. Plenty of fresh water then a final rinse with Di or distilled is the go. If you got tubing issues, get some new stuff (no different to when a radiator hose breaks). If you got block issues pull it down and cleaning it. If you have a res staining issue; around $12 gets you a new tube.

Manufactures have a duty of care to sell you things that work and are in good working order (RMA if not). With WC parts the technology has improved, metals have improved, parts have improved....(there is no need to clean to a point where you are actually "screwing with the adding things to your loop for cleaning"...make sure if you are learning WC systems for PC or you are unsure about things. That you source your information from current trends and advice. there is so much out-dated info on the net it is scary. *like how to build a system using old IED ribbons etc etc).

Happy tubbin and Moddin









@ golfergolfer







Love it!!!! Great job!!!! but it is baby blue ahhhhhh though colour is personal preference your spanner work is great !!!!!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YeAz*
> 
> This seems to be such an old trend this use of Vinegar.... It seems that a lot of people still do this. It is really not necessary..... in fact I have always been anti vinegar if you ask me. I think people go along the lines "it will clean good so that must be good?" however we forget that we do not use vinegar to flush out our car's systems or boats. Plenty of fresh water then a final rinse with Di or distilled is the go. If you got tubing issues, get some new stuff (no different to when a radiator hose breaks). If you got block issues pull it down and cleaning it. If you have a res staining issue; around $12 gets you a new tube.
> 
> Manufactures have a duty of care to sell you things that work and are in good working order (RMA if not). With WC parts the technology has improved, metals have improved, parts have improved....(there is no need to clean to a point where you are actually "screwing with the adding things to your loop for cleaning"...make sure if you are learning WC systems for PC or you are unsure about things. That you source your information from current trends and advice. there is so much out-dated info on the net it is scary. *like how to build a system using old IED ribbons etc etc).
> 
> Happy tubbin and Moddin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ golfergolfer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it!!!! Great job!!!! but it is baby blue ahhhhhh though colour is personal preference your spanner work is great !!!!!


Unless this happens:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1405994/lightbox/post/20317217/id/1541968

Then you gotta use some proper cleaner XD


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Unless this happens:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1405994/lightbox/post/20317217/id/1541968
> 
> Then you gotta use some proper cleaner XD


People here are talking about flushing systems for the use of Mayhem's products....hahahaa but I do like those [email protected]@!!!!

I agree that block looks horrid!!!!! however, once I looked at the post, I said of course that is going to happen.

The guy bought and started to use the block back in 2010. He has done no or little maintenance to it at all in that time. He stated he never has pulled it apart. Bloody what do people expect a $50 plus block to do in 3 years!!!! I wouldn't even bother cleaning that I would throw it over the neighbour's fence!!!!! *people expect these parts to last an eternity I tell ya!

My advice is spot on, again only just only if people look after their gear like they are meant to. Manufacturers state that you should clean your loop every few years depending the coolant. You have to be nuts if you leave even water in a system that long as suggested without cleaning or maintenance.

I refer to people no changing the oil in their vehicles for 3 years hahahahahaaaaa

It comes down to spanner time and time commitment.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YeAz*
> 
> People here are talking about flushing systems for the use of Mayhem's products....hahahaa but I do like those [email protected]@!!!!
> 
> I agree that block looks horrid!!!!! however, once I looked at the post, I said of course that is going to happen.
> 
> The guy bought and started to use the block back in 2010. He has done no or little maintenance to it at all in that time. He stated he never has pulled it apart. Bloody what do people expect a $50 plus block to do in 3 years!!!! I wouldn't even bother cleaning that I would throw it over the neighbour's fence!!!!! *people expect these parts to last an eternity I tell ya!
> 
> My advice is spot on, again only just only if people look after their gear like they are meant to. Manufacturers state that you should clean your loop every few years depending the coolant. You have to be nuts if you leave even water in a system that long as suggested without cleaning or maintenance.
> 
> I refer to people no changing the oil in their vehicles for 3 years hahahahahaaaaa
> 
> It comes down to spanner time and time commitment.


XD I'm well aware of how messed up that block was, take a look at who gave all the advice on how to clean it







I just thought while we were on the topic of loop cleaning it was time for a horror story!

Personally I just throw some loop cleaner in there, then flush it out really well: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17967/ex-liq-306/Primochill_Sys_Prep_Cooling_Loop_Pre-Treatment_Cleaner_-_15mL.html?tl=g30c103s1847

Stuff is bound to get caught in the waterblocks.


----------



## trapjaw72

no one said to clean tubing only part's like gpu an blocks an rads, an yes it works 100 percent no proof that it hurt;'s. I personally use ketchup on my water blocks. because you dont use it dont make it bad lots of watercooling guys use it.......no proof its hurts water-cooling parts at all.......an for people that cant buy new parts every time this will help them.....


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trapjaw72*
> 
> no one said to clean tubing only part's like gpu an blocks an rads, an yes it works 100 percent no proof that it hurt;'s. I personally use ketchup on my water blocks. because you dont use it dont make it bad lots of watercooling guys use it.......no proof its hurts water-cooling parts at all.......an for people that cant buy new parts every time this will help them.....


I do not think I ever said don't use it. *I don't need all the vinegar users jumping on me because I make a suggestion. I just quoted what Mick said about it been acidic and how that would alter his product. I was not providing proof of anything. I could not care if you clean your gear with peanut butter.
I was mearly contributing to the fact, that i have found if you maintain something (your gear) you wont have to worry about the issues arrising with PH issues.

Where did i say using it hurts your parts?

I never said people need to buy new parts either. though thanks for pointing that out







I was refering again to ZytheEKS horror post about people leaving things so long they creat bigger problems for themselves.

I was not quoting over your advice or information relating to the help you offered, I agree with you. I started off my rant over mick's quote

My other comments were to the story ZytheEKS posted and his assistance there.....

btw @ZytheEKS I wonder what dye company he was refering to about the red dye.


----------



## trapjaw72

Vingar = acid = not actually that good unless you neutralize it with Bicarbonate of soda afterwards.........this what he said never did he say it would hurt, also said its good if you neutralize it with Bicarbonate of soda afterwards.. guess you missed that part......


----------



## trapjaw72

This seems to be such an old trend this use of Vinegar.... It seems that a lot of people still do this. It is really not necessary..... in fact I have always been anti vinegar if you ask me. I think people go along the lines "it will clean good so that must be good?" however we forget that we do not use vinegar to flush out our car's systems or boats. Plenty of fresh water then a final rinse with Di or distilled is the go. If you got tubing issues, get some new stuff (no different to when a radiator hose breaks). If you got block issues pull it down and cleaning it. If you have a res staining issue; around $12 gets you a new tube.

this is what you said


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trapjaw72*
> 
> Vingar = acid = not actually that good unless you neutralize it with Bicarbonate of soda afterwards.........this what he said never did he say it would hurt, also said its good if you neutralize it with Bicarbonate of soda afterwards.. guess you missed that part......


I know what I said lol I still do not see where I said it hurts the parts.

I do not think I missed anything because the people that have had issues have not actually used Bocarbonate soda afterwards.


----------



## trapjaw72

the man him self said it mayhems


----------



## ZytheEKS

Terms of Service
Quote:


> You are EXPECTED to:
> 
> Edit your posts for spelling and grammar. Overclock.net's usability depends on this.
> Use capitalization
> No excessive Internet jargon
> Use proper spelling, grammar and punctuation
> Communicate in English only
> Treat others with respect at all times


----------



## Mayhem

0_o Come on guys no need for any of this. Every one is allowed to have there own opinion no matter if its correct or not, Its all down to personal preference.
















Enjoy the forums and use them to there full advantage.

If people argue on this thread you may get it blocked, locked or even deleted. This would not be good for any one.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Terms of Service:
Quote:


> You are EXPECTED to:
> 
> Edit your posts for spelling and grammar. Overclock.net's usability depends on this.
> Use capitalization
> No excessive Internet jargon
> Use proper spelling, grammar and punctuation
> Communicate in English only
> Treat others with respect at all times
> Maintain an environment that is friendly to all ages


----------



## _REAPER_

Leak Testing now BACK ON TRACK


----------



## jwl24

Anyone got some examples, or some builds using the mayhems pastel red? I'm doing a shiny chrome, black/red build, and wanted to go with the pastel red, and was hoping it looks a lot like the mint green look, just red.


----------



## akira749

You can check my White Asylum build log in my signature you will see some pictures at the end with some Pastel Red coolant. The only thing you have to imagine is that I added a few drops of Deep Red dye in it to make it a little darker. The Pastel Red alone is very bright









Here in the jar is plain Pastel Red


----------



## Xyrrath

Just finished my first WC loop with Pastel Sunset Yellow its a terrible pic but i guess its better then nothing


----------



## jwl24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You can check my White Asylum build log in my signature you will see some pictures at the end with some Pastel Red coolant. The only thing you have to imagine is that I added a few drops of Deep Red dye in it to make it a little darker. The Pastel Red alone is very bright
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here in the jar is plain Pastel Red


Pretty bright, but I don't think it will be that bad. Something like jameswalt build but red is what I'm after.


----------



## trapjaw72

hello bro very nice set up you have.........


----------



## alancsalt

Thread Cleaned.


----------



## Mayhem

@alancsalt Thks

Well things are progressing we've upgraded the new water making system even further.

New readings as of today

PPM 0.00 to 0.02 (6 out of 10 test were unreadable due to them being so low our equipment could not read it)
EC 0.01 to 0.02 (6 out of 10 test were unreadable due to them being so low our equipment could not read it)
Ph [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]
ORP [email protected]
Production System 1 @ 50 Ltrs Per Hour . System 2 @ 250 Ltrs Per Hour


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jwl24*
> 
> Pretty bright, but I don't think it will be that bad. Something like jameswalt build but red is what I'm after.


No it won't be bad it's a very nice and rich color!


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Dyes in a Guitar for the merc advert and show peace. The liquid was put together by Hughes Wave Manichean's ....

Putting our saying

We give you the tools. You create the master peace ..... to good use.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @alancsalt Thks
> 
> Well things are progressing we've upgraded the new water making system even further.
> 
> New readings as of today
> 
> PPM 0.00 to 0.02 (6 out of 10 test were unreadable due to them being so low our equipment could not read it)
> EC 0.01 to 0.02 (6 out of 10 test were unreadable due to them being so low our equipment could not read it)
> Ph [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]
> ORP [email protected]
> Production System 1 @ 50 Ltrs Per Hour . System 2 @ 250 Ltrs Per Hour


Very impressive numbers. Not many, if any, other manufacturers are willing to give out details like you. I really like the no non-sense kinda thing you have going.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems Dyes in a Guitar for the merc advert and show peace. The liquid was put together by Hughes Wave Manichean's ....
> 
> Putting our saying
> 
> We give you the tools. You create the master peace ..... to good use.


That just shows a small portion of what can be done







Keep up the great work.


----------



## andyv

Just finished my build with Mayhems. Used the Blue dye (probably ended up being about 10 drops), clear UV blue dye (maybe about 5-6 drops) and Mayhems Biocide. Pretty happy with the result. Wish I put a few more drops in, the res has a colour that I want but the tubing its a bit light. Next time I guess.


----------



## _REAPER_

Just finished my build let me know what you think


----------



## ZytheEKS

@andyv

just pop a couple drops in the red and run it till it's nicely mixed. That's that I did when I wasn't happy with the UV glow of liquid.

@reaper

smexy! I really like the monochromatic contrast the red has against the black/white base.


----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> @andyv
> 
> just pop a couple drops in the red and run it till it's nicely mixed. That's that I did when I wasn't happy with the UV glow of liquid. .


I like the UV glow, the colour is a bit weak . I was going to put a few more drops in, but the top of the res is on pretty tight, and I think the bottom will unscrew before the top which would be very bad. To get more dye in I would need to fill the res with more distilled through a fill tube. But I would need to drain the loop a bit. It wouldn't be too hard as I have a dedicated drain, but its not that bad so I am happy to leave it for now.


----------



## ZytheEKS

@andyv

suck some dye mixed with distilled water through a straw, stick it down far enough into the fillport where it will be close to the res and blow it in.







just have a towel around the fillport, it'll probably splash a little.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

So, I'm going to redo the loop. Reading the above conflict, should I just rinse the block, rad and res with tap water and pour in Pastel White afterwards?

Right now I have 6 months old Pastel Blue in there.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> So, I'm going to redo the loop. Reading the above conflict, should I just rinse the block, rad and res with tap water and pour in Pastel White afterwards?
> 
> Right now I have 6 months old Pastel Blue in there.


Are you having flowrate issues?
No - Flush with water and cleaner. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17967/ex-liq-306/Primochill_Sys_Prep_Cooling_Loop_Pre-Treatment_Cleaner_-_15mL.html

Yes-v
Did you clean your loop out prior to filling it with pastel blue?
Yes - flush with water and cleaner http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17967/ex-liq-306/Primochill_Sys_Prep_Cooling_Loop_Pre-Treatment_Cleaner_-_15mL.html

No - Disassemble the waterblock and clean it out with vinegar/water and a toothbrush. Then be sure to rinse that sucker really well.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Are you having flowrate issues?
> No - Flush with water and cleaner. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17967/ex-liq-306/Primochill_Sys_Prep_Cooling_Loop_Pre-Treatment_Cleaner_-_15mL.html
> 
> Yes-v
> Did you clean your loop out prior to filling it with pastel blue?
> Yes - flush with water and cleaner http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17967/ex-liq-306/Primochill_Sys_Prep_Cooling_Loop_Pre-Treatment_Cleaner_-_15mL.html
> 
> No - Disassemble the waterblock and clean it out with vinegar/water and a toothbrush. Then be sure to rinse that sucker really well.


No flowrate issues









If anything I have slightly too much of a flow since there keep appearing bubbles in the res when pump is turned on









Thanks for the advise


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> No flowrate issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anything I have slightly too much of a flow since there keep appearing bubbles in the res when pump is turned on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advise


Just remember, after you run the cleaner through it, flush it out really good with distilled water before adding your coolant.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Just remember, after you run the cleaner through it, flush it out really good with distilled water before adding your coolant.


Will do, thanks


----------



## trapjaw72

I love your rig my friend very nice job..........


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trapjaw72*
> 
> I love your rig my friend very nice job..........


Assuming you're talking to me, thanks man









Going to take apart the rig in a couple of days though


----------



## trapjaw72

yes you bro very nice rig........


----------



## brian1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Glad to see if ran for a few months,. Its best to rinse it off cos no matter how much wipeing you do it will still be there unless washed.


So these dyes do gumm up the loop after a while? its not 100% foolproof?


----------



## Xyrrath

H
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian1115*
> 
> So these dyes do gumm up the loop after a while? its not 100% foolproof?


e was refering toward aurora coolant


----------



## Mayhem

@brian1115 dye don't gum up, never have done, never will do. Dyes are dyes full stop.


----------



## trapjaw72

IVE been using mayhem's dyes for long time. never gummed up my loop at all.......


----------



## brian1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @brian1115 dye don't gum up, never have done, never will do. Dyes are dyes full stop.


thanks


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Is this a pre-mix *Mayhems XT-1 Clear Coolant Concentrate*? Do I have to add anything?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Is this a pre-mix *Mayhems XT-1 Clear Coolant Concentrate*? Do I have to add anything?


It's a concentrate, and needs to be added to distilled water.
Mixing ratios can be found here:
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/xt-1.html#.UeTW1p7ZuCo


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It's a concentrate, and needs to be added to distilled water.
> Mixing ratios can be found here:
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/xt-1.html#.UeTW1p7ZuCo


Thank you. Guess that coolant isn't for me.

How about the Mayhems X1 Clear Concentrate, do I have to add pure H20? I know it says concentratebut it says this " _There is no messing around, you just pour the coolant into your systems and that is it. Mayhems X1 includes all the biocides and inhibitors you will need to protect your water cooling system and doesn't require the user to add anything extra._ "


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Thank you. Guess that coolant isn't for me.
> 
> How about the Mayhems X1 Clear Concentrate, do I have to add pure H20? I know it says concentratebut it says this " _There is no messing around, you just pour the coolant into your systems and that is it. Mayhems X1 includes all the biocides and inhibitors you will need to protect your water cooling system and doesn't require the user to add anything extra._ "


Yes, if it's a concentrate you'll have to add dionized water or H20 to it. Are you just looking for a clear premix? I know some retailers carry Pastel premixes, but I don't remember seeing an X1 premix anywhere (not to say it doesn't exist.)


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Yes, if it's a concentrate you'll have to add dionized water or H20 to it. Are you just looking for a clear premix? I know some retailers carry Pastel premixes, but I don't remember seeing an X1 premix anywhere (not to say it doesn't exist.)


Yes, looking for a premixed x1. If I don't find a premix x1. What is the guide for adding distilled water or the x1 concentrate?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Yes, looking for a premixed x1. If I don't find a premix x1. What is the guide for adding distilled water or the x1 concentrate?


I'm fairly certain this is the only place you'll find premixed X1 coolant:
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/x1-coolants/x1-pre-mix-1ltr.html
So unless you live in the UK, it's unwise to buy premixed Mayhems, as shipping will bite you in the nether regions.

Otherwise you can just mix the X1 concentrate with Distilled water. 125ml to one liter of distilled water, or one bottle of concentrate to two liters of distilled water.

Just mix concentrates with distilled water, it ain't that hard and it's cheaper (usually)

People usually mix it in a separate container before adding it to the loop. This allows you to get an even mix before adding, at it allows you to save any excess for topping off your loop when you loose liquid to evaporation. (Like you certainly will)


----------



## Mayhem

EU re-sellers have the full range of Premix and Concentrates. Out of EU only have Concentrates (due to shipping costs) How ever we are working with PPC in USA to stock "all" of our products and become distributor for us in that region. You can order direct from us if you after the Full premixed versions how ever shipping is not the cheapest in the world but we will do our best to keep the price down. If you would like a quote Contact [email protected] with you full details and what you would like and they will find the cheapest shipping method and let you know the price.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'm fairly certain this is the only place you'll find premixed X1 coolant:
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/x1-coolants/x1-pre-mix-1ltr.html
> So unless you live in the UK, it's unwise to buy premixed Mayhems, as shipping will bite you in the nether regions.
> 
> Otherwise you can just mix the X1 concentrate with Distilled water. 125ml to one liter of distilled water, or one bottle of concentrate to two liters of distilled water.
> 
> Just mix concentrates with distilled water, it ain't that hard and it's cheaper (usually)
> 
> People usually mix it in a separate container before adding it to the loop. This allows you to get an even mix before adding, at it allows you to save any excess for topping off your loop when you loose liquid to evaporation. (Like you certainly will)


Thank you REP+ Just making sure I understand and mix it right. 1 liter of Mayhem Pure H20 with .125ml of X1 Concentrate?


----------



## snef

this is the Mayhems Pastel Raspberry Purple

like I said in previous post, its really purple, not blue

and really surprised, not so much purple coolant are use by builder/modder

purple Chimera in Leak test


----------



## trapjaw72

sweet set up bro.......very nice........


----------



## trapjaw72

shipping not that bad from uk, mayhem's help you get best shipping price he can..........


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trapjaw72*
> 
> shipping not that bad from uk, mayhem's help you get best shipping price he can..........


Okay thank you for helping. REP+


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> this is the Mayhems Pastel Raspberry Purple
> 
> like I said in previous post, its really purple, not blue
> 
> and really surprised, not so much purple coolant are use by builder/modder
> 
> purple Chimera in Leak test
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, that looks great, purple is difficult to pull off well but you did it somehow









Also, I like how dimensional your loop is, really a piece of art.


----------



## trapjaw72

dudes rig look's sick.........


----------



## cyphon

it's sooo purple.......

Nice work, very clean!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> this is the Mayhems Pastel Raspberry Purple
> 
> like I said in previous post, its really purple, not blue
> 
> and really surprised, not so much purple coolant are use by builder/modder
> 
> purple Chimera in Leak test
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it! Nice build.


----------



## Mayhem

Under normal Light Left pastel yellow , Right New test Pastel UV Lime yellow



For Comparison under UV is Left UV Laser green 2nd Left is UV Pink, then far right is UV Yellow green and UV green. center res is Pastel UV Lime Yellow.



What are you thoughts?


----------



## trapjaw72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Under normal Light Left pastel yellow , Right New test Pastel UV Lime yellow
> 
> 
> 
> For Comparison under UV is Left UV Laser green 2nd Left is UV Pink, then far right is UV Yellow green and UV green. center res is Pastel UV Lime Yellow.
> 
> 
> 
> What are you thoughts?


hello bro I will take them all. they look sick very nice my friend..........





















,


----------



## Lutfij

I can has moar pics!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Under normal Light Left pastel yellow , Right New test Pastel UV Lime yellow
> 
> 
> 
> For Comparison under UV is Left UV Laser green 2nd Left is UV Pink, then far right is UV Yellow green and UV green. center res is Pastel UV Lime Yellow.
> 
> 
> 
> What are you thoughts?


Very nice result!









The Pastel UV Lime Yellow and the UV Green stands out of the rest personally!!


----------



## cyphon

Ooooo I like that UV Pastel Lime Yellow under the UV lamps..........suddenly want to do a green build......

Great work as always


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Ooooo I like that UV Pastel Lime Yellow under the UV lamps..........suddenly want to do a green build......
> 
> Great work as always


Same here... except I've already got a green build lol. It does make me want to replace my freshly filled mint pastel though.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Those new dyes look great


----------



## NoodleGTS

Hi all,

I'm using this tubing:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_292_1153&products_id=36314&zenid=0414a4e22b32be8a8263cacc8ee8d723

There was a lot of Primochill bashing but this one seems to be newer and DEHP free. Should it be okay or will I still have issues?

Want to use Mayhems orange dye.

Thanks!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoodleGTS*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm using this tubing:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_292_1153&products_id=36314&zenid=0414a4e22b32be8a8263cacc8ee8d723
> 
> There was a lot of Primochill bashing but this one seems to be newer and DEHP free. Should it be okay or will I still have issues?
> 
> Want to use Mayhems orange dye.
> 
> Thanks!


I've heard that version is fine...someone that uses it can confirm maybe?

I had the leeching with their last version, so I am avoiding them for now personally


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoodleGTS*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm using this tubing:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_292_1153&products_id=36314&zenid=0414a4e22b32be8a8263cacc8ee8d723
> 
> There was a lot of Primochill bashing but this one seems to be newer and DEHP free. Should it be okay or will I still have issues?
> 
> Want to use Mayhems orange dye.
> 
> Thanks!


I'm using it with Pastel Red and it's fine!


----------



## MillerModPCs

My "900D Elite" with Mayhems X1-UV Blue


----------



## bmartb18b1

This is Mayhem's UV Pink, any tips on better UV lights? I have the logysis cc and as you can see I have to put the light right on the tube to get it to react. All in all this is a great product!


----------



## Mayhem

Is this UK pink of UV red. If it was UK pink its alot brighter than that, if its UV red then its not to bright because we don't like adding to much pink.


----------



## trapjaw72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerModPCs*
> 
> My "900D Elite" with Mayhems X1-UV Blue


Hello My Friend, Very Nice Rig...............


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmartb18b1*
> 
> This is Mayhem's UV Pink, any tips on better UV lights? I have the logysis cc and as you can see I have to put the light right on the tube to get it to react. All in all this is a great product!


The leds on your fan probably absorb a part of the UV effect due to it's brightness. Try to disconnect the fan and see if it reacts better.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If it a dark green then add blue (only a tiny amount) if it a light green add yellow,


I have problem with aurora coolant.
This is my first time i use the coolant i turn off the pc and the next morning found this



Seems tht after one night the silver parts are stains on the res.
Any solution to avoid this happen again??
I hope the silver doesnt stains in the rad and if this happen how i clean this up???


----------



## bmartb18b1

Quote:


> akira749: The leds on your fan probably absorb a part of the UV effect due to it's brightness. Try to disconnect the fan and see if it reacts better


I will give it a shot and repost a picture when it gets a little darker. Very bright in my room during the day.

Quote:


> Mayhem: Is this UK pink of UV red. If it was UK pink its alot brighter than that, if its UV red then its not to bright because we don't like adding to much pink


It is the UV pink I ordered from FrozenCPU.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17679/ex-liq-268/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Pink.html#blank


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> I have problem with aurora coolant.
> This is my first time i use the coolant i turn off the pc and the next morning found this
> 
> 
> 
> Seems tht after one night the silver parts are stains on the res.
> Any solution to avoid this happen again??
> I hope the silver doesnt stains in the rad and if this happen how i clean this up???


Have you tried turning the loop back on? Could it possibly be separation?

Did you double check everything you used in your loop to make sure it was 100% compatible with Aurora?


----------



## lowfat

Deep blue + distilled. Looks a lot more deep when I don't have so much light.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-33.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-7-8.jpg.html


----------



## failwheeldrive

Looks great Lowfat. How difficult was it to get such straight runs with your tubing? It almost looks like acrylic.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Looks great Lowfat. How difficult was it to get such straight runs with your tubing? It almost looks like acrylic.


It is done pretty much exactly like you bend acrylic. It is a bit harder to get it do what you want. I can also redo the tubing over and over again if I make mistakes.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It is done pretty much exactly like you bend acrylic. It is a bit harder to get it do what you want. I can also redo the tubing over and over again if I make mistakes.


I see. I've just always had a ridiculously hard time trying to train flexible tubing. There's pretty much always a bend remaining on my runs, so I just try to keep them facing outwards so they look straightish from outside the case lol.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> I have problem with aurora coolant.
> This is my first time i use the coolant i turn off the pc and the next morning found this
> 
> 
> 
> Seems tht after one night the silver parts are stains on the res.
> Any solution to avoid this happen again??
> I hope the silver doesnt stains in the rad and if this happen how i clean this up???


That the aurora and the res is supposed to be standing up lol. You have the aurora layering because its falling out this is why its a "Show coolant". Turn on you pump as said and it will pick it back up slowly.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> That the aurora and the res is supposed to be standing up lol. You have the aurora layering because its falling out this is why its a "Show coolant". Turn on you pump as said and it will pick it back up slowly.


I know that the res should be in vertical but i like it like this.
Seems that the silver is attacked like clue and doesnt dissappear after running thr pump for 8 hours.
I shut it down for 4 hours and after i turn on the pump.Now is more worst.
question:
How i can remove the silver if is stain in the radiator???
Any product??


----------



## Mayhem

Just rinse out with water.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> I see. I've just always had a ridiculously hard time trying to train flexible tubing. There's pretty much always a bend remaining on my runs, so I just try to keep them facing outwards so they look straightish from outside the case lol.


It takes a bit of work for sure. I had to redo the bends that go to my CPU block probably close to 10 times each before I got it right.


----------



## snef

final Pics of Mayhems Purple


----------



## golfergolfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> final Pics of Mayhems Purple
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


WOW! I have always been a fan of builds that dont follow normal color schemes ie the gold or in your case the purple! Looks amazing







Moncton Canada eh? I was thinking about moving out there


----------



## snef

Thanks

Yeah Moncton, its a very Great Place, everyone love everyone


----------



## cyphon

Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry in the new build...loving it!


----------



## Mayhem

@Snerf Holy Sweet

@cyphon Nice clean Build going on there.


----------



## Goofy Flow

Mayhems Pastel Red in my water system;


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> final Pics of Mayhems Purple
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great Result Snef!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> Mayhems Pastel Red in my water system;
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice!


----------



## jwl24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> Mayhems Pastel Red in my water system;


You mix with anything?


----------



## Lutfij

I demand a build log! I love that pastel red!...and that line behind that tubing.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Finally took some pics of my mint green pastel







More pics in my build log here http://www.overclock.net/t/1409824/build-log-arc-under-water-bitspower-ek-alphacool-and-all-that-jazz/10


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Finally took some pics of my mint green pastel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics in my build log here http://www.overclock.net/t/1409824/build-log-arc-under-water-bitspower-ek-alphacool-and-all-that-jazz/10
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can't wait to build my rig with green pastel looks great


----------



## failwheeldrive

Thanks man. Agreed, green pastel looks absolutely killer. I love the new shades from a few pages back as well. I'm temped to try out UV Yellow Green next


----------



## MillerModPCs

Mayhems X1-UV Blue


----------



## MillerModPCs

Client Build using Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Just curious. What pastel color would go the best with the Z77-UD3H, a Gunmetal Grey Switch 810, and black compression fittings?

Blue Berry


Raspberry Purple


or Ice White


Can't decide which one to get >.>


----------



## Mayhem

Make your own Colour.


----------



## Goofy Flow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jwl24*
> 
> You mix with anything?


no,only Pastel red "ready to use"


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Just curious. What pastel color would go the best with the Z77-UD3H, a Gunmetal Grey Switch 810, and black compression fittings?
> 
> Blue Berry
> 
> 
> Raspberry Purple
> 
> 
> or Ice White
> 
> 
> Can't decide which one to get >.>


*Blue Berry* will be the closest blue in the pastel range but still lighter than the UD3H heatsinks.

*Raspberry Purple* is really purple like this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> final Pics of Mayhems Purple


*Ice White* would be ok since white is a neutral tone.

You best result would be to use a BlueBerry or IceWhite base and add blue dye to make it your own like Mick answered








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Make your own Colour.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> *Blue Berry* will be the closest blue in the pastel range but still lighter than the UD3H heatsinks.
> 
> *Raspberry Purple* is really purple like this
> *Ice White* would be ok since white is a neutral tone.
> 
> You best result would be to use a BlueBerry or IceWhite base and add blue dye to make it your own like Mick answered


Didn't realize the purple was that. Its stock photos showed it more along the lines of a dark blue for some reason. Much appreciated for the help though!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Just curious. What pastel color would go the best with the Z77-UD3H, a Gunmetal Grey Switch 810, and black compression fittings?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Blue Berry
> 
> 
> Raspberry Purple
> 
> 
> or Ice White
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't decide which one to get >.>


Make a color your self, being a gun metal case and black internals. I would look what is around the room it will be situated in most. Then find a complementing color *HERE*.

That's just my opinion


----------



## cyphon

tbh, I think that orange would look sweet with the gunmetal...the aqua blue heat sinks is a complement to the orange. Could be sweet


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Sorry about the wait Mick. I should be done soon.


----------



## IT Diva

Hey gang,

I know you guys can help me out on this . . . .

I nixed the Aurora because it gummed up all 3 Koolance flow meters to where they wouldn't even spin at all, so I replaced it with Pastels.

I'm trying to get back as closely as possible to the Aurora colors; Tharsis red and Nebula blue for a triple loop red white/blue color scheme. (the Ice white is fine) for my stretched case build.

What dyes do I need to add to get the red and blue a little bolder looking?

Thanks in advance,

Darlene

I'd like to have the pastels about this color of red, and maybe a little deeper/bolder blue if it's possible:


----------



## ginger_nuts

Diva

I have heard that the Aurora if filtered through a coffee strainer, will come out as the color but Pastel









So if you still have the coolant, get the color you want.

But if starting fresh, check the color match of Pastel red and Pastel Blue Berry. They look very similar. Almost an exact match by the photo's I have seen.


----------



## Mayhem

No if you filer Aurora though a coffee filter it will come out the same as X1







except 2x stronger.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Sorry me bad


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No if you filer Aurora though a coffee filter it will come out the same as X1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> except 2x stronger.


Thanks for the info . . .
















I did save the Aurora, and I have unopened concentrates of it as well, so it looks like I'll be able to get something acceptable.

From the blueberry pics I've seen, it's a bit too much of a "baby blue" for what I'm looking for, so I guess it's time for a bit of experimentation.

Can filtered Aurora be mixed with the pastels?

Darlene


----------



## Mayhem

No i would not go diluting pastel any more than it already is, as the effect will drop out much quicker. Pastel Mix ratios are right on the border line as they are.


----------



## NoodleGTS

Anyone have pics of the orange dye?

I'm currently running a loop with some FluidXP in it, but it's not quite as orange as I'd like. can I just add a few drops of dye or should I really just drain it out and replace with water/dye/biocide? I know it's not super ideal but unless there's a chemical reaction that's going to destroy my loop it would be waaaay easier for me.

Thanks.


----------



## cyphon

You can always add some dye to the pastels. If the colors are too bright add some darker dye to it....or buy all white and dye them to your own shades that you want

EDIT: Same goes for the X1 and everything else. Just depends on what effect you want


----------



## trapjaw72

very nice set up bro looks sick...............


----------



## phaseshift

anyone have a pic of the orange dye?


----------



## Mayhem




----------



## NoodleGTS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*


Any "action shots" of it


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Has anyone experieneced Plasticizer Problems with Mayhem fluids. Just wondering


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phaseshift*
> 
> anyone have a pic of the orange dye?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1359564/mayhems-photo-gallery/20#post_19728972
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Has anyone experieneced Plasticizer Problems with Mayhem fluids. Just wondering


Plasticizer is from tubing, not the dies, I believe


----------



## jwl24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofy Flow*
> 
> Mayhems Pastel Red in my water system;


I also have 3 bottles of the mayhem's pastel red.. and I'm loving this color, but if i mix it with deionized primochill water, it'll be same color ?


----------



## Sunreeper

Yeah it will


----------



## jaymz60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoodleGTS*
> 
> Any "action shots" of it


ORANGE DYE

Here's a few sorry a little dark http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/jaymz60/slideshow/PC%20Pictures%20and%20benches/orange


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Has anyone experieneced Plasticizer Problems with Mayhem fluids. Just wondering


It is an incompatibility with tubing and the dye. This is not specific to Mayhem's dyes either. I've had the problem with other brands as well. Interestingly enough, I had it with Primochill tubing and Primochill premix fluid, hmph.

What tubing do you have or are getting?


----------



## NoodleGTS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It is an incompatibility with tubing and the dye. This is not specific to Mayhem's dyes either. I've had the problem with other brands as well. Interestingly enough, I had it with Primochill tubing and Primochill premix fluid, hmph.
> 
> What tubing do you have or are getting?


As long as you use plasticizer free tubing you should be fine.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoodleGTS*
> 
> As long as you use plasticizer free tubing you should be fine.


That is where I was going with it, lol....problem was with the old Primochill tubing...did not research enough before buying, lol


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It is an incompatibility with tubing and the dye. This is not specific to Mayhem's dyes either. I've had the problem with other brands as well. Interestingly enough, I had it with Primochill tubing and Primochill premix fluid, hmph.
> 
> What tubing do you have or are getting?




Went with Primochill Advance LRT. Used Primochill pre-mixed for a couple of weeks. Just to be safe, switched it up to Mayhems clear x1.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> 
> 
> Went with Primochill Advance LRT. Used Primochill pre-mixed for a couple of weeks. Just to be safe, switched it up to Mayhems clear x1.


The Advanced is the newer one without the plastizier as I understand, so you should be fine with Mayhem's dyes. The Pro is the bad one


----------



## Disseverment

Any ideas on what die I would need to add to pastel sunset yellow to color match the asrock z87 OC Formula? Note it has a slight orange hint to it in person.


----------



## cyphon

That's a tough one....Looks like you need to move it a little more toward the red spectrum but also balance it out with blue and/or green so that it doesn't become orange....

Someone that is better with color mixing may have a better guess, but I think some red and a touch of blue and/or green??


----------



## MillerModPCs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disseverment*
> 
> Any ideas on what die I would need to add to pastel sunset yellow to color match the asrock z87 OC Formula? Note it has a slight orange hint to it in person.


Sunset Yellow with a touch of Red dye


----------



## Mayhem

Use deep red red it will be more pronounced about 2 drops per 1 ltr depending on lighting should bring you very close.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoodleGTS*
> 
> Any "action shots" of it


Orange dye in action


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Orange dye in action


ohhhh nice may we borrow this pic from you for our new web site.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Orange dye in action
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now that looks clean. Well done.


----------



## Disseverment

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Use deep red red it will be more pronounced about 2 drops per 1 ltr depending on lighting should bring you very close.


Thanks, will give that a try and post the results.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Orange dye in action
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice! I wish I had the shop space to do the rigid tubing, looks so nice!


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> ohhhh nice may we borrow this pic from you for our new web site.


Yeah that's fine


----------



## _REAPER_

Mayhem on your website you should put a place for people to post one shot of their builds,


----------



## Mayhem

We have a pro now working for us who is working on the web site (some people may have noticed the spelling mistakes are disappearing







).

We are working on a new site as well with lots more info and more news and more work logs and inviting people to show there systems. It all takes time but this year were taking some massive leaps and gambles especially in today's climate.

Mick


----------



## _REAPER_

I for one will be posting on your site.


----------



## luciddreamer124

That sounds awesome. Should be some great pictures on there. I'd love to post as well


----------



## Lutfij

Count me in, I'm definitely going to post my builds(with mayhems dye's) on your site - just give us a link to add the work to.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I'll post as well when my system looks at least half decent


----------



## Mayhem

A comparison photo take yesterday.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Which are those?


----------



## Mayhem

|This is the pastel range of colours. One new colour is being introduced and one dropped.


----------



## akira749

Pastel Black is gone and Pastel UV Lime Yellow is added


----------



## cyphon

Love the pastels!

Looking forward to the new site


----------



## snef

ahhh now purple look purple

nice pics

I have a question

need a specific color for my next build and im still in planning mode and need to know if its possible to create this color with dye

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-1-8_zps6542343b.jpg.html

this color is named Yellow Sand
I think with white pastel and yellow and orange dye????
or yellow pastel with a touch of orange dye?

thanks for your help


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> |This is the pastel range of colours. One new colour is being introduced and one dropped.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


:O Why did you get rid of pastel black? Was there an issue with the liquid, or was it simply not selling well enough to justify it's continued production?


----------



## Mayhem

Due to the issues of people not keeping there liquids PH stable were dropping the black and working on a More PH stable version. Very much like how we've been improving red and orange over time. When you hand make 86 products some thing has to give







.....


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Due to the issues of people not keeping there liquids PH stable were dropping the black and working on a More PH stable version. Very much like how we've been improving red and orange over time. When you hand make 86 products some thing has to give
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....


Ah, so your not getting rid of Pastel black, you're just working on a more stable mixture. Good to know.


----------



## steelkevin

Long time since I came here.

Do you have any idea what the consequences of not respecting the 3/4 DI water 1/4 Pastel concentrate would be ?
I'm having temp issues (always have but I've got plenty of time to do stuff and figured I'd try to sort it) which are the result of many factors (mostly my mistakes) and just realized that my ratio was more like 4/5 DI water 1/5 Pastel Concentrate.

Thanks in advance







.

Here's my latest post in the thread where my temp issues are being discussed.


----------



## Mayhem

The pastel coolant is about 2c more than water alone so should not be a main factor ref you temps. The bad mixing ratio with water if any thing should improve your temps by a factor of 1c. Normally watering it down too much has the effect of the Pastel falling out of the liquid suspension faster than normal and that's about it.

Mick


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> ahhh now purple look purple
> 
> nice pics
> 
> I have a question
> 
> need a specific color for my next build and im still in planning mode and need to know if its possible to create this color with dye
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-1-8_zps6542343b.jpg.html
> 
> this color is named Yellow Sand
> I think with white pastel and yellow and orange dye????
> or yellow pastel with a touch of orange dye?
> 
> thanks for your help


Yes you right pastel yellow with orange dye will do the trick


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The pastel coolant is about 2c more than water alone so should not be a main factor ref you temps. The bad mixing ratio with water if any thing should improve your temps by a factor of 1c. Normally watering it down too much has the effect of the Pastel falling out of the liquid suspension faster than normal and that's about it.
> 
> Mick


Alright







. Thanks a lot.

If it had been an issue I could've just opened up my second bottle of concentrate and made it right but if it's not an issue that's great







.
I'm counting two mistakes so far then, not three (terrible Backplate and Block mounting / terrible TIM applying skills). The main factor will probably end up being a gunked up cpu block though. Thanks for ruling out the bad mix







.


----------



## Mayhem

Things that can cause issues are

1) Not removing the plastic protective strip from under the block.
2) Bad mounting, Incorrect fitting, miss alignment
3) Tubing leaching plastersizer into the pins of the CPU block
4) pump fail
5) Blocked rad


----------



## ASO7

*Mayhem Dyes Ultra Deep Blue*


----------



## cyphon

oooo shiny


----------



## TheBlademaster01

It is indeed :d


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel UV White & UV Pastel Lime Yellow


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pastel UV White & UV Pastel Lime Yellow


Lookin pretty good


----------



## n3farious

I just finished my build. Using the old bottle of X1 pre-mix in red, with a few drops of red added. I will probably switch to the newer concentrate of blood red and DI.


Left Side by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Due to the issues of people not keeping there liquids PH stable were dropping the black and working on a More PH stable version. Very much like how we've been improving red and orange over time. When you hand make 86 products some thing has to give
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....


Hopefully I won't have any issues with the black pastel, I loved your sunset yellow a lot I wanted to give this color a try now that some parts of my PC will be yellow.


----------



## Mayhem

Well if you do have any problems just let us know and we will sort it out as per the norm


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Well if you do have any problems just let us know and we will sort it out as per the norm


^^^^ Sign of a great company


----------



## haritz85

lime yellow is


----------



## Adrian-E

Did anybody test Mayhem pastel with the new PrimoChilll Rigid Acrylic Tube ?

I'm thinking about changing my tubing and this seems like a good option since there's not a lot of space in my SFX Silverstone SG01 and I have a lot of tight corners to make.

Also I'm using Tygon (2475 Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer Free Tubing - 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) - Clear ACG00027) right now its seems to leave some white residue inside my tubing , it clears out in about 8-10 sec after I start the computer and the pump starts pushing the coolant but when the computer is not working it accumulates again.


----------



## Mayhem

Weve tested it on E22 rigid tubing and our reservoirs for testing fluids are made of rigid tubing so we would see no reason why it wont be fine.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ASO7*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Mayhem Dyes Ultra Deep Blue*


Clean build. The blue dye matches with everything in your rig. Well done.


----------



## lowfat

Trying a few different mixes out. Not sure which I'll use in my builds yet.
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_3956-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_3959-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_3955-1.jpg.html


----------



## Mayhem

Just messing


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just messing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Amazing!!

How are you achieving that?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just messing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What type of res is that being used? It looks fantastic


----------



## Mayhem

The res is made by cheapskate from the mod zoo / Bit-tech and its a one off res that i asked him to hand make for me. The liquid is a two part (both parts UV active) liquids. one is a type of oil that i have made UV active green and the other is UV pastel Blue.

it took me ages to find the correct dyes that would work with each other that would not cross over and could coexist.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The res is made by cheapskate from the mod zoo / Bit-tech and its a one off res that i asked him to hand make for me. The liquid is a two part (both parts UV active) liquids. one is a type of oil that i have made UV active green and the other is UV pastel Blue.
> 
> it took me ages to find the correct dyes that would work with each other that would not cross over and could coexist.


Very nice work!


----------



## ginger_nuts

If you ever want to get rid of the res. I would be more the happy to buy it from ya :-D


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The res is made by cheapskate from the mod zoo / Bit-tech and its a one off res that i asked him to hand make for me. The liquid is a two part (both parts UV active) liquids. one is a type of oil that i have made UV active green and the other is UV pastel Blue.
> 
> it took me ages to find the correct dyes that would work with each other that would not cross over and could coexist.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Trying a few different mixes out. Not sure which I'll use in my builds yet.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_3959-1.jpg.htmlhttp://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_3956-1.jpg.html
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_3955-1.jpg.html


The middle one has my vote.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Very pleased with the Grey Pastel Mick.

I just can't capture it properly on camera. I did balance out the green and red properly and it looks right in real life...


----------



## Sunreeper

Blade that last picture with the case, cooling, and sleeving is one of the best build pictures I've ever seen


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Very pleased with the Grey Pastel Mick.
> 
> I just can't capture it properly on camera. I did balance out the green and red properly and it looks right in real life...


I would really like to know how you did grey I think it would offset my build very well


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Seeing as you have pastel white already, add emerald green dye


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







and mix it up with a bit of red dye


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I believe it was a

Green:red = 8:1

Ratio


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Seeing as you have pastel white already, add emerald green dye
> 
> 
> 
> and mix it up with a bit of red dye
> 
> 
> 
> I believe it was a
> 
> Green:red = 8:1
> 
> Ratio


Thank you


----------



## TheBlademaster01

No problem, your PC is a beast though.

I would love some 680s


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> No problem, your PC is a beast though.
> 
> I would love some 680s


I am going to get 3 Titans soon


----------



## R3apR369

Is their any way to get a bright nickel like color. I'm sure i'm asking the impossible, but i'm trying to go for a silver/black theme with my build.



What would you guys recommend? Ya think silver threaded tubing would look nice?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

No, not really. That's why I went with gray


----------



## Sunreeper

You could always use mercury.

Yeah don't actually do that.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> You could always use mercury.
> 
> Yeah don't actually do that.


Always read the fine print LOL


----------



## Mayhem

So a question ..

Should (once testing has finished and were happy) "Illusion" be released as a Full mix or a Dye for the mixture?

As a dye we can concentrate it down and you should be able to make 10 Lrs+ of dyed product or do we create a full 2 bottle premix with full instruction on how to mix it all and keep it working.

Obversely most of you will know how it all works after all its only just science in action how ever there will be the Odd person who doesn't follow the rules so much and like aurora it would probably need a wiki or full set of instruction explaining every detail.

So again the question is *Should "Illusion" be released as a Full mix or a Dye for the mixture?*


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> So a question ..
> 
> Should (once testing has finished and were happy) "Illusion" be released as a Full mix or a Dye for the mixture?
> 
> As a dye we can concentrate it down and you should be able to make 10 Lrs+ of dyed product or do we create a full 2 bottle premix with full instruction on how to mix it all and keep it working.
> 
> Obversely most of you will know how it all works after all its only just science in action how ever there will be the Odd person who doesn't follow the rules so much and like aurora it would probably need a wiki or full set of instruction explaining every detail.
> 
> So again the question is *Should "Illusion" be released as a Full mix or a Dye for the mixture?*


Full Mix


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> So a question ..
> 
> Should (once testing has finished and were happy) "Illusion" be released as a Full mix or a Dye for the mixture?
> 
> As a dye we can concentrate it down and you should be able to make 10 Lrs+ of dyed product or do we create a full 2 bottle premix with full instruction on how to mix it all and keep it working.
> 
> Obversely most of you will know how it all works after all its only just science in action how ever there will be the Odd person who doesn't follow the rules so much and like aurora it would probably need a wiki or full set of instruction explaining every detail.
> 
> So again the question is *Should "Illusion" be released as a Full mix or a Dye for the mixture?*


My votes on a concentrate, but that's because I live in the U.S. and the price would much likely be notably more expensive for premixes due to shipping.


----------



## wermad

How many bottles of Mayhems pastel do you guys recommend?

Running: cpu, 3x gpu, 2x 480s, 360, 240, 120, bay res. Kinda of sucks it comes with a small bottle. Might be cheaper to go w/ IDC and buy some dye.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> So a question ..
> 
> Should (once testing has finished and were happy) "Illusion" be released as a Full mix or a Dye for the mixture?
> 
> As a dye we can concentrate it down and you should be able to make 10 Lrs+ of dyed product or do we create a full 2 bottle premix with full instruction on how to mix it all and keep it working.
> 
> Obversely most of you will know how it all works after all its only just science in action how ever there will be the Odd person who doesn't follow the rules so much and like aurora it would probably need a wiki or full set of instruction explaining every detail.
> 
> So again the question is *Should "Illusion" be released as a Full mix or a Dye for the mixture?*


Full mix


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How many bottles of Mayhems pastel do you guys recommend?
> 
> Running: cpu, 3x gpu, 2x 480s, 360, 240, 120, bay res. Kinda of sucks it comes with a small bottle. Might be cheaper to go w/ IDC and buy some dye.


Around 2.5 liters.

I don't know why you say it sucks because they comes in small bottle and then you compare it with IDC...

The Mayhems "small" bottles are concentrate coolant that you mix with DI water which will give you a full liter of Pastel coolant...so it will be the same amount as an IDC bottle.


----------



## ginger_nuts

@ Mayhems I would vote for a concentrate, mainly due to shipping cost. But if you are worried that it is going to be a continuous problem trying to educate people on the correct setup procedures etc, could you not sell it in both forms?

@ Wermad I am only guessing, but would you not need something like 3 or 4 litres give or take? That would be 3 or 4 bottles of Pastel Concentrate + 2.25 or 3 litres of distilled water. Note, I always seem to over estimate, better having a little more then a little less, IMO.

With two universal blocks + CPU + Small Res + RX240 + EX240 I use about 1.7 litres.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How many bottles of Mayhems pastel do you guys recommend?
> 
> Running: cpu, 3x gpu, 2x 480s, 360, 240, 120, bay res. Kinda of sucks it comes with a small bottle. Might be cheaper to go w/ IDC and buy some dye.


We have a similar set up, 4 bottles of concentrate will be fine, and leave you with a little extra just in case. That will make 4 liters and you'll only use 2.5-3.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> How many bottles of Mayhems pastel do you guys recommend?
> 
> Running: cpu, 3x gpu, 2x 480s, 360, 240, 120, bay res. Kinda of sucks it comes with a small bottle. Might be cheaper to go w/ IDC and buy some dye.


Fill the loop with tap water, then drain it into a jug and measure how much water it used.









Then you know the exact amount of coolant you'll need, and can order accordingly.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Around 2.5 liters.
> 
> I don't know why you say it sucks because they comes in small bottle and then you compare it with IDC...
> 
> The Mayhems "small" bottles are concentrate coolant that you mix with DI water which will give you a full liter of Pastel coolant...so it will be the same amount as an IDC bottle.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> @ Mayhems I would vote for a concentrate, mainly due to shipping cost. But if you are worried that it is going to be a continuous problem trying to educate people on the correct setup procedures etc, could you not sell it in both forms?
> 
> @ Wermad I am only guessing, but would you not need something like 3 or 4 litres give or take? That would be 3 or 4 bottles of Pastel Concentrate + 2.25 or 3 litres of distilled water. Note, I always seem to over estimate, better having a little more then a little less, IMO.
> 
> With two universal blocks + CPU + Small Res + RX240 + EX240 I use about 1.7 litres.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> We have a similar set up, 4 bottles of concentrate will be fine, and leave you with a little extra just in case. That will make 4 liters and you'll only use 2.5-3.


Thanks guys







+1

Just to guesstimate I'm probably ~0.5gal (~1.8-2.0L). I'm using BI GTX Rads so they don't suck up a lot of water like the Monsta rads (took about ~3/4gal).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Fill the loop with tap water, then drain it into a jug and measure how much water it used.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then you know the exact amount of coolant you'll need, and can order accordingly.


Its really hard to do that with my loop and heavy rig. But thanks for the suggestion


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Full mix


----------



## tSgt

Full Mix


----------



## _REAPER_

FULL MIX


----------



## Sunreeper

C-c-c-concentrate


----------



## Ted Muffin

What clear tubing works well with the pastel Red that does not cloud up easily?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ted Muffin*
> 
> What clear tubing works well with the pastel Red that does not cloud up easily?


Primochill*l* Advance clear tube is probably the best right now. Be warn it is a lot stiffer then the older LRT (which does plasticize).


----------



## cyphon

I vote on concentrate because it gives you more flexibility in customizing your own color/effect/etc


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Primochill Advance clear tube is probably the best right now. Be warn it is a lot stiffer then the older LRT (which does plasticize).


+1

I'm using it in both 3/8ID X 1/2OD and 1/2ID X 3/4OD without any issues


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ted Muffin*
> 
> What clear tubing works well with the pastel Red that does not cloud up easily?


I am using the XSPC PVC and haven't had any issues. Using with pastel blueberry


----------



## lowfat

deep blue + purple

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_3964-2-1.jpg.html


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> deep blue + purple
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_3964-2-1.jpg.html


I am not normally a fan of blue but your build is amazing


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Ooh, pretty. You still have your Z9 lowfat?


----------



## superericla

Premix or concentrate, why not both?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Premix or concentrate, why not both?


It would be impractical on the manufacturing end.


----------



## Lutfij

Mayhem - I'd vote for a concentrate!


----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering can I use Mayhen dyes mixed with distilled water or not?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering can I use Mayhen dyes mixed with distilled water or not?


Yes you can. Their dyes will be fine (make sure you add all your additives). Or if you use a concentrate (like pastel for example), you actually mix those with DI water and they have all of the additives in there already.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yes you can. Their dyes will be fine (make sure you add all your additives). Or if you use a concentrate (like pastel for example), you actually mix those with DI water and they have all of the additives in there already.


so which one is better to mixed with DI water, dyes or pastel?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> so which one is better to mixed with DI water, dyes or pastel?


This completely depends on what effect do you want and how you like to maintain your loop. Pastel you cannot see through (completely opaque) and have a bright color. Dyes are simply dyes, so it will be translucent and the color will be a depend on what dyes and how many drops you use. You can also use dyes on pastel to get your own pastel colors if you like.

Do you like to maintain your additives yourself or do you want a pre-mix that you just pour in?

If you like to do your own additives, then do DI water + dyes to get your color, unless you want the pastel effect. If you want a premix, look at the mayhem X1 [or again the pastel]. You can also use dyes on the X1 fluids.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Ooh, pretty. You still have your Z9 lowfat?


Yes but it still hasn't been used yet. I haven't ever actually completed building a system w/ it.


----------



## bobsaget

hey everyone,

after using my AIO H220 watercooling, i'm planning to expand it into a full loop.
I've got a few questions:
- how do i clean the rad, pump and cpu block from swiftech coolant?
- if i understand clearly, the best solution in terms of coolant is to use ULTRA PURE + a few drops in the loop of BIOCIDE EXTREME? I don't care about the colour, i'll use a colored tubing, that will do the job









thanks!


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel colour look like this ->



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> hey everyone,
> 
> after using my AIO H220 watercooling, i'm planning to expand it into a full loop.
> I've got a few questions:
> - how do i clean the rad, pump and cpu block from swiftech coolant?
> - if i understand clearly, the best solution in terms of coolant is to use ULTRA PURE + a few drops in the loop of BIOCIDE EXTREME? I don't care about the colour, i'll use a colored tubing, that will do the job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks!


Just rinse out with Di water. I would use XT1 Concentrate rather than water + Biocide.


----------



## rickyman0319

i am wondering if I can mix DI water with Premix collant or not? it is like half DI water and half Premix collant.


----------



## Mayhem

Premix is just that its ready to go and should not be watered down. Concentrate is some thing you add water to.


----------



## PCModderMike

Mayhems Dye - Dark Blue


----------



## bobsaget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just rinse out with Di water. I would use XT1 Concentrate rather than water + Biocide.


Sorry i'm not a native speaker. To clarify:
- i wash the loop parts that used to contain swiftech coolant with distilled water such as M Ultra Pure?
- then i fill the loop with XT1 concentrate, which i understand has to be mixed with distilled water as well?


----------



## rickyman0319

is XT-1 or X1 premixed coolant?

if it is then I just pour inside the resevor and that is it? is that correct?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Looks stellar Mike, I knew of this idea beforehand from miron though


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems Dye - Dark Blue


Looking good!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Looks stellar Mike, I knew of this idea beforehand from miron though


Thank you!
But what is treason you speak of.







lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Looking good!


Thanks bro!
Can't wait to see your changes.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I always lol at how much similarity there is between your components, post count and folding activity lol. You guys are twins


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> I always lol at how much similarity there is between your components, post count and folding activity lol. You guys are twins




I wouldn't go so far to say twins...that would be identical.








But he's an old buddy of mine, we go way back...so yea I know there are some similarities.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I know, college IIRC









Anyways, it's not bad thing. You both have great taste in hardware, aesthetics and food


----------



## PCModderMike




----------



## MillerModPCs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is XT-1 or X1 premixed coolant?
> 
> if it is then I just pour inside the resevor and that is it? is that correct?


No its a concentrate, you must mix with DI water to create a pre mix.


----------



## stickg1

A lot of info go over. So I will just ask, I have the Biocide and its great. Thinking of going UV blood red, but would that stain my fittings, blocks, etc. or are they easily cleaned if I ever change systems and change colors?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobsaget*
> 
> Sorry i'm not a native speaker. To clarify:
> - i wash the loop parts that used to contain swiftech coolant with distilled water such as M Ultra Pure?
> - then i fill the loop with XT1 concentrate, which i understand has to be mixed with distilled water as well?


You can use any DI water you do not have to use mayhems ultra-pure. Then use use XT1 and its a concentrate. there Mix ratios are here


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> A lot of info go over. So I will just ask, I have the Biocide and its great. Thinking of going UV blood red, but would that stain my fittings, blocks, etc. or are they easily cleaned if I ever change systems and change colors?


Blood will stain over a long period of time. All red liquids do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is XT-1 or X1 premixed coolant?
> 
> if it is then I just pour inside the resevor and that is it? is that correct?


XT1 / X1 Concentrates are just that concentrates. You Mix in the correct amount of DI water wich is written on the bottle. X1 can also comes in a pre mixed fluid that needs nothing extra adding.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Blood will stain over a long period of time. All red liquids do.


Gotcha, I don't think I mind, it looks too cool to pass up. I'll place an order to Performance-PCs later this week.


----------



## Mayhem

Oky full pics of the whole pastel range inc UV photos.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Great new photos!


----------



## cyphon

Nice new photos!


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Awesome new photos!


----------



## PCModderMike

Fantastic new photos!


----------



## GMPoison

I know it says that the 250 mill Mayhems Pastel Concentrate - White is enough for a simple CPU block, but I just wanted to make sure before I put my rig together. It's a Corsair 350D, the 240 rad is on the top, there's only a CPU block no GPU, and the res is an EK 140 res/mp355 pump top combo, so pretty small res. Two questions.

Is one bottle enough?

If I need a little more fluid in my system when Im filling it, can I just add in some more water without losing the nice white color.

Thank you!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMPoison*
> 
> I know it says that the 250 mill Mayhems Pastel Concentrate - White is enough for a simple CPU block, but I just wanted to make sure before I put my rig together. It's a Corsair 350D, the 240 rad is on the top, there's only a CPU block no GPU, and the res is an EK 140 res/mp355 pump top combo, so pretty small res. Two questions.
> 
> Is one bottle enough?
> 
> If I need a little more fluid in my system when Im filling it, can I just add in some more water without losing the nice white color.
> 
> Thank you!


I was under the impression it was *only* 250ml but its actually a concentrate that will yield 1L (members here kindly pointed that out







). For a single cpu block, one should be good







. I'm probably using 2-3L of di with my large loop (cpu, 3x gpu, 5x rads, bay res) so I will need a few bottles.


----------



## GMPoison

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I was under the impression it was *only* 250ml but its actually a concentrate that will yield 1L (members here kindly pointed that out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). For a single cpu block, one should be good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm probably using 2-3L of di with my large loop (cpu, 3x gpu, 5x rads, bay res) so I will need a few bottles.


Thanks! And wow, 5 radiators


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMPoison*
> 
> I know it says that the 250 mill Mayhems Pastel Concentrate - White is enough for a simple CPU block, but I just wanted to make sure before I put my rig together. It's a Corsair 350D, the 240 rad is on the top, there's only a CPU block no GPU, and the res is an EK 140 res/mp355 pump top combo, so pretty small res. Two questions.
> 
> Is one bottle enough?
> 
> If I need a little more fluid in my system when Im filling it, can I just add in some more water without losing the nice white color.
> 
> Thank you!


You should be good. I used 1 bottle concentrate [+ the DI water of course] to fill a 200mm res, pump, 360 rad, 240 rad, cpu, 2 gpu, chipset, all the tubing [1/2" ID], and still had a good bit left over.


----------



## GMPoison

I know this may not be the place, but I'm going to ask here anyway because you guys are friendly









Does anyone know the total height from top to bottom on the EK-DDC X-RES 140 CSQ - Acetal (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17537/ex-pmp-213/EK_D...) if I put a Swiftech MCP355 on it? I want to put it on top of my HDD cage in my Corsair Obsidian 350D, and I think it will make a nice fit with my SSD cage removed, and two 90 degree fittings to go up along the side of the GPU to the CPU. I want to make sure the thing will fit before I buy it. Thank you!!!!


----------



## NoodleGTS

Where can one buy the NEW orange pastel in the US?

I'm trying to match the color of these xigmatek fans and my gigabyte Z87X-OC motherboard, more or less:




Less yellow, more orange.


----------



## Lutfij

Mayhems - really awesome looking pics of the range







I'm yet to get my Gigabyte Orange up and running - but will surely give your entire range a try out.


----------



## Mayhem

To match a Main Board Such as the gigabyte one you may wish to get deep red + orange pastel A couple of drops of deep red will achieve the colour you need. (we no longer call it gigabyte BTW)


----------



## stickg1

Whats the proper mix ration for UV Blood Red?

Or rather, which color should I use to go with this...


----------



## CapnCrunch10

If I wanted to darken up a pastel color, do I mix it with the pastel black?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CapnCrunch10*
> 
> If I wanted to darken up a pastel color, do I mix it with the pastel black?


Which pastel color?


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Which pastel color?


Blue to make a darker blue or white to make a gray.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I used black dye in my pastel to get a darker blue (check Nardis in sig)


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Whats the proper mix ration for UV Blood Red?
> 
> Or rather, which color should I use to go with this...


Pastel red is what most people use with a few extra drops of deep red.


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CapnCrunch10*
> 
> Blue to make a darker blue or white to make a gray.


Heres a video on how to make grey https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG6y2M6Uvss


----------



## Stickeelion

hey guys, I am using mayhems clear X1 coolant with Mayhems Deep Red Dye, as I was putting this into the reservoir a little bit squirted sideways and most probably landed on the mother board. I know with water you can let it just dry for a few days before you turn it on but what is the deal with the mayhems dye? do I need to find it and clean it off or can I just leave it to evaporate??

thanks guys


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pastel red is what most people use with a few extra drops of deep red.


Would that look cooler than the

Mayhems Red + Mayhems UV Pink + Mayhems Blue = UV Blood Red

from the OP?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> hey guys, I am using mayhems clear X1 coolant with Mayhems Deep Red Dye, as I was putting this into the reservoir a little bit squirted sideways and most probably landed on the mother board. I know with water you can let it just dry for a few days before you turn it on but what is the deal with the mayhems dye? do I need to find it and clean it off or can I just leave it to evaporate??
> 
> thanks guys


You will need to make sure you clean that off asap. Dab and remove what you can and then use a q-tip to remove what ever you can. It will destroy your MB if you do not get most of it off.
Quote:


> Would that look cooler than the
> 
> Mayhems Red + Mayhems UV Pink + Mayhems Blue = UV Blood Red
> 
> from the OP?


Simple answer .... yes


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You will need to make sure you clean that off asap. Dab and remove what you can and then use a q-tip to remove what ever you can. It will destroy your MB if you do not get most of it off.


ahh not what In was hoping for, I only just noticed tiny drops, like that from a weed sprayer, I have no hope of finding those tiny things









I'll just have to cross my fingers and pray all is good unfortunately, Thanks anyway Mayhems


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Most likely your motherboard will OCP. I've shorted my system multiple times already in the past 2 weeks. I had a standoff that didn't line up with my SSI board so at times it touched the mobo. Then a Phobia & Bitfenix extension caught fire...

You should try to clean up though as it will leave residue and it's never healthy for an electronic device.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Most likely your motherboard will OCP. I've shorted my system multiple times already in the past 2 weeks. I had a standoff that didn't line up with my SSI board so at times it touched the mobo. Then a Phobia & Bitfenix extension caught fire...
> 
> You should try to clean up though as it will leave residue and it's never healthy for an electronic device.


I have looked as close as I can near the area that the dye went, I can't see anything, most went on the motherboard tray but it was about 1" away from the motherboard, so I'm not entirely sure whether it hit it or not. I'm not likely to see them since the drops were less than the size of a pin head.

What exactly do you mean by OCP, Over Current Protection?

I'm still rather concerned (and a bit paranoid)


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> I have looked as close as I can near the area that the dye went, I can't see anything, most went on the motherboard tray but it was about 1" away from the motherboard, so I'm not entirely sure whether it hit it or not. I'm not likely to see them since the drops were less than the size of a pin head.
> 
> What exactly do you mean by OCP, Over Current Protection?
> 
> I'm still rather concerned (and a bit paranoid)


Yeah, as soon as the power management circuit or the PSU detects a short (too much current in an area) it will shut down (hard).


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> Yeah, as soon as the power management circuit or the PSU detects a short (too much current in an area) it will shut down (hard).


thanks mate, Well I have eyballed the area of the motherboard in question and then some more and I cannot seem to find anything, I thought I did but upon inspection on other parts of the mother board it appeared to be from the manufacturing process as I can find it in areas no liquid would have gotten.

I think I may be out of the woods but I'll only know for sure when I turn it on


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> I used black dye in my pastel to get a darker blue (check Nardis in sig)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> Heres a video on how to make grey https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG6y2M6Uvss


Thank you both!


----------



## steelkevin

Errrrrrr a couple pages ago cyphon or something I think it was said he'd filled his entire loop with only a single bottle of concentrate.
With a single bottle of concentrate you're supposed to make a litre of liquid. I made 1.2litres.
My reservoir is only half full. My loop is consisted of two 280 rads, a 250ml reservoir, a pump top and a cpu block.
My point being either you diluted yours even more than I did or you forgot you'd used more than a single bottle.

Not taking a jab at you or anything it's just that I can't see how that'd be possible and I wouldn't want people winding up with only half the necessary coolant and having to wait a couple more days (depending on delivery speed) to play with their system


----------



## Mayhem

@steelkevin People do add to much water all the time to save a few pennys / cents. The warnings are in place to say if you do this you may have issues how ever it is up to the end user. The biggest problem will be that there is not enough biocide in there system to protect it over a long period. How ever we are not here to judge but to try our best to keep every one happy







....


----------



## Stickeelion

on this topic, I had a 250ml concentrate bottle of Mayhems X1 Clear, is that meant to make 2 litres or one?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

1L

1:3 ratio

Concentrate:Water


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01*
> 
> 1L
> 
> 1:3 ratio
> 
> Concentrate:Water


It does say mix 250ml of concentrate with 2L water on the bottle though









Should I mix in some of my second bottle or is it fine? (my loop is about 2Litres with one 250ml bottle of concentrate)


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Oh crap, I was talking about Pastel.


----------



## Stickeelion

haha no worries


----------



## trapjaw72

wow man they all look so sexy, I feel like a kid in a candy store.......


----------



## kcuestag

In the next week or so I'll be getting Primochill Advanced LRT to use with *Mayhems Pastel White*, can't wait!









My loop uses somewhere between 1L and 1.5L (Not really sure exactly how much). Do you guys think 2 bottles of 250ml concentrate will be enough?


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> In the next week or so I'll be getting Primochill Advanced LRT to use with *Mayhems Pastel White*, can't wait!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My loop uses somewhere between 1L and 1.5L (Not really sure exactly how much). Do you guys think 2 bottles of 250ml concentrate will be enough?


I thought Advanced LRT had clouding issues with the pastel type of coolant


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> I thought Advanced LRT had clouding issues with the pastel type of coolant


Where did you read this? As far as I know it's the only tubing with no plasticizer issue.


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> In the next week or so I'll be getting Primochill Advanced LRT to use with *Mayhems Pastel White*, can't wait!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My loop uses somewhere between 1L and 1.5L (Not really sure exactly how much). Do you guys think 2 bottles of 250ml concentrate will be enough?


You're supposed to mix 250mL pastel concentrate with 750mL DI water so each bottle will make 1L of coolant. Two will make 2L so you should be well covered if your estimate is 1-1.5L.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Pastel is a mixed bag of tricks and has a extremely long life span. This product was developed in conjunction with "Ice Dragon Cooling" to produce pastel type colours for the PC user. Mayhems Pastel Coolants can be used up to 3 years in a system.
> 
> UPDATE : PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Working, Tygon E1000 Working. "DEHP" free tubing is recommended for use with Mayhems pastel coolants. thumb.gif
> 
> Mayhems Pastel is a every day type liquid unlike Mayhems Aurora and can be used in all systems and has never had any reported problems as such.
> 
> Colours Mayhems Pastel comes in as standard in 250ml concentrate and 1 ltr premixed.
> White (this is the base mix you can change to any colour)
> Red
> Blue
> Pink
> Green
> Yellow
> Orange
> Purple
> UV White (this is only available in 1 Ltr premix and cannot be made in 250ml concentrate)


/

ahh it seems to have been updated, it looks like it works now, I checked nearly 8 months ago and it said LRT didn't work. Dang, in that case I would have gotten pastel coolant. I'll just change it when I next clean out my loop


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> /
> 
> ahh it seems to have been updated, it looks like it works now, I checked nearly 8 months ago and it said LRT didn't work. Dang, in that case I would have gotten pastel coolant. I'll just change it when I next clean out my loop


That's because you're confusing models.

The bad (old) one: Primochill Primoflex PRO LRT
The good one (new): Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT

The Advanced LRT is the one that came into the market early this year and it works great, no plasticizer.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Errrrrrr a couple pages ago cyphon or something I think it was said he'd filled his entire loop with only a single bottle of concentrate.
> With a single bottle of concentrate you're supposed to make a litre of liquid. I made 1.2litres.
> My reservoir is only half full. My loop is consisted of two 280 rads, a 250ml reservoir, a pump top and a cpu block.
> My point being either you diluted yours even more than I did or you forgot you'd used more than a single bottle.
> 
> Not taking a jab at you or anything it's just that I can't see how that'd be possible and I wouldn't want people winding up with only half the necessary coolant and having to wait a couple more days (depending on delivery speed) to play with their system


I didn't dilute at all. I have a container with a 1L mark. I dumped in the concentrate (250ml) then filled up to the 1L mark with DI water (750ml)... that is the 3:1 ratio as mayhems instructs.

My res holds 393ml max and is probably filled to around 350ml or so. I use as little tubing as possible. Here is pic of my loop and how much coolant was left after filling loop (estimate around 150ml)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> That's because you're confusing models.
> 
> The bad (old) one: Primochill Primoflex PRO LRT
> The good one (new): Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT
> 
> The Advanced LRT is the one that came into the market early this year and it works great, no plasticizer.


^ this

the PRO was evil! Lol


----------



## wermad

Advance is a lot stiffer compared to the old LRT Pro, so its not perfect but it does avoid the plasticizing issue.


----------



## cyphon

They are a bit stiffer but stiff tubes dont **** all over your blocks. A little more of a hassle for routing but will take that over plasticizing any day


----------



## Stickeelion

I actually found my advanced LRT 3/8"-5/8" took some pretty tight turns without kinking









just wish I got that pastel stuff


----------



## wermad

Routing was no biggie for the Advance, but squeezing them on my Enzotechs was a pita. I ended up installing the ends on a vacant fitting (dabbed a bit of silicone grease to help) and then gently added some heat. And finally locked the ring as tight as possible. Let it cool down and then just removed and installed. I'm suspecting my enzos were metric (10mm) trying to squeeze in the Primochill 3/8 (~9.5mm).

I'm planning on going hard acrylic tube and I'm eyeing Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow:


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I didn't dilute at all. I have a container with a 1L mark. I dumped in the concentrate (250ml) then filled up to the 1L mark with DI water (750ml)... that is the 3:1 ratio as mayhems instructs.
> 
> My res holds 393ml max and is probably filled to around 350ml or so. I use as little tubing as possible. Here is pic of my loop and how much coolant was left after filling loop (estimate around 150ml)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh... right ! Sorry about that then. I've got quite thick rads hence the confusion







.

PS: That bottom rad is surprisingly thin but I think the whole rig looks great


----------



## Adrian-E

Thanks for clearing that up kcuestag

Some guy did mention on this thread that the old Primochill Primoflex LTR is not compatible with Pastel coolants but I wasn't sure which one to buy.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrian-E*
> 
> Thanks for clearing that up kcuestag
> 
> Some guy did mention on this thread that the old Primochill Primoflex LTR is not compatible with Pastel coolants but I wasn't sure which one to buy.


It is compatible with any tubing really, but not recommended as most do have Plasticizer issue, that's why the only tubing I'd recommend as of today is the *Primoflex Advanced LRT*.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Oh... right ! Sorry about that then. I've got quite thick rads hence the confusion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> PS: That bottom rad is surprisingly thin but I think the whole rig looks great


Had to use a thin to mount the pump/res where it is. There were the grommets in the way slightly higher and I didn't want to drill in the side of the hard drive bays. So that was the thickest I could get with that setup. Temps are fine tho and the thicker rad would be minimal improvement.


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Hnnnngggg waiting for my first watercooling parts including 2L of Mayhem's Pastel Mint Green...I've only been waiting 1 day but it's already taking a toll on me! I'll be sure to post a picture when my loop is done so I can be part of the best-looking coolant master-race!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kipsofthemud*
> 
> Hnnnngggg waiting for my first watercooling parts including 2L of Mayhem's Pastel Mint Green...I've only been waiting 1 day but it's already taking a toll on me! I'll be sure to post a picture when my loop is done so I can be part of the best-looking coolant master-race!


I hate waiting lol. I end up spending extra on shipping cause I can't take it lol


----------



## Bereapunk2006

Ordered some pastel red this week. Hopefully it'll be in tomorrow so I can finally fill my loop!!


----------



## wermad

Placed my order for three bottles of Pastel Sunset Yellow concentrate. I hope 3L is good enough.


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I hate waiting lol. I end up spending extra on shipping cause I can't take it lol


Trust me if paying extra would mean I'd get my stuff faster I'd do that too lol! It's just that some parts that I ordered had to be ordered by the shop because they weren't in stock, so I have to wait for those to arrive there first before they send it to me ._.

I'll be getting a very, very large box of goodies but I'm gonna grab the bottles of mayhem first to check out the colors in their real-life glory


----------



## Adrian-E

Do you guys have a release date on when the new chameleon coolant is going to come out?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrian-E*
> 
> Do you guys have a release date on when the new chameleon coolant is going to come out?


Thats in the works. were finishing off 1 product at and time chameleon is about no 3 down the line. Testing takes time (1 year plus some times).


----------



## ginger_nuts

In that case, I have plenty of time to do another build or two









Then


----------



## Bereapunk2006

*It's in!!*











I wish it was a little more red though.. :/ other than that its amazing looking!!


----------



## stickg1

Is that the pastel red? Looks good. I think I'm going to get a dye or concentrate. Haven't decided yet.


----------



## wermad

Looks like strawberry margaritas...mmmmmmmmmmm.........







. Looks awesome


----------



## Bereapunk2006

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Is that the pastel red? Looks good. I think I'm going to get a dye or concentrate. Haven't decided yet.


Yep pastel red. I'm most likely going to order some deep red dye to make it slightly redder.. Either way I would completely recommend the pastel red!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Looks like strawberry margaritas...mmmmmmmmmmm.........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Looks awesome


Mmmm strawberry margaritas... I mean where's my beer!


----------



## Stickeelion

wow!! I'm am definitely going to have to order some of that next time I refill my loop


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bereapunk2006*
> 
> *It's in!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish it was a little more red though.. :/ other than that its amazing looking!!


Couldn't you darken it up with red dye?


----------



## Bereapunk2006

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CapnCrunch10*
> 
> Couldn't you darken it up with red dye?


Yep, will most likely order some dye soon. Was just hoping that it would already start out slightly darker without having to spend more money.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bereapunk2006*
> 
> *It's in!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish it was a little more red though.. :/ other than that its amazing looking!!


thats not red enough PM (name, address, telephone number) and ill send over some free dye , not happy with that colour it should be more vibrant.


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> thats not red enough PM (name, address, telephone number) and ill send over some free dye , not happy with that colour it should be more vibrant.










Just another reason to keep Mayhems at the top of the list regarding quality and CS.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just another reason to keep Mayhems at the top of the list regarding quality and CS.


ahh beat me to it. but yes I concur


----------



## Bereapunk2006

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> thats not red enough PM (name, address, telephone number) and ill send over some free dye , not happy with that colour it should be more vibrant.


Wow! Thanks so much









PM sent


----------



## Darylrese

Can i join please?

XSPC Raystorm 750 EX240 kit with Mayhems Berry Blue i built today. Its a few shades lighter than the rest of my build....Mayhems, is there a dye i can add to the Berry Blue to make it darker to match my build please?


----------



## GMPoison

Nice build Darylrese, love the colors. Is that the NZXT white sleeved led kit?


----------



## Heff04

I've been using Mayhems pastel coolant for several months now and I am extremely impressed by the quality of this product.. When the Pastel Blue first came out I searched all over the place to finally get my hands on it (everyone was sold out). I'll be a loyal customer for a long time to come =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Can i join please?
> 
> XSPC Raystorm 750 EX240 kit with Mayhems Berry Blue i built today. Its a few shades lighter than the rest of my build....Mayhems, is there a dye i can add to the Berry Blue to make it darker to match my build please?


Darylrese I'm totally digging your rig. awesome cable management bro!


----------



## Darylrese

Yep that sure is a NXZT LED kit around the outside. I then have 2 x 15cm blue cathodes hidden behind the radiator so a blue glow comes from the top down. The Raystorm CPU block then came with two blue LED's which are fitted to light up the block itself.

Thank-you both for your kind words. Its my first watercooling loop, i plan to expand in the future to cool my GPU's too but its going to cost quite a lot of money


----------



## Mayhem

You can darken it up by adding more Blue / Deep Blue dye. TBH though it looks fine to us the pics you have shown.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Yeah, it matches the heatsinks on your mobo and sleeving.


----------



## steelkevin

That's what I thought too but I think we all know how photos can look very different than the reality, I could make my coolant look light blue instead of darkon one picture and darker than it is on the next one.
Anyway, I "zoomed" in on his picture and I get what he means.

Dark Blue dye as said by Mayhems himself will get you the color you want


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Tell me about it with my grey coolant


----------



## Darylrese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You can darken it up by adding more Blue / Deep Blue dye. TBH though it looks fine to us the pics you have shown.


Thank-you! It does look amazing, but it is lighter than the rest of my system in real life. Photos always look a little different, the blue on heatsinks are a deeper blue in reality. If i want to change it ill buy some of your blue dye...thanks!









Few questions this being my first loop, How do i drain it when needed and is the coolant supposed to stay solid in the tubes even when turned off? I expected the fluid to go down in the loop when off but the tubing stays full.


----------



## tasdefleja

Is it safe to mix Mayhems Dye with Aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra (Clear) ?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Thank-you! It does look amazing, but it is lighter than the rest of my system in real life. Photos always look a little different, the blue on heatsinks are a deeper blue in reality. If i want to change it ill buy some of your blue dye...thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Few questions this being my first loop, How do i drain it when needed and is the coolant supposed to stay solid in the tubes even when turned off? I expected the fluid to go down in the loop when off but the tubing stays full.


Now that's confusing !
Why would you think such a thing ? Unless you didn't fill your loop all the way then no, that shouldn't happen. If it did I would be really worried.
What can happen though (always has with my tube res) is that when you turn the pump on or off the reservoir's coolant level goes up and/or down an mm or two.

EDIT: no, actually it's a totally reasonable thing to wonder. I gave it a thought and I can't understand why when powered off my top rad doesn't go empty. With gravity and all that's what would make sense to me.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Happens in my bay res too. Is just pressure.

But yeah, tubing has to stay full. If not this might be the indication that there's a leak in the loop.


----------



## Darylrese

Ok cool thanks guys! Im glad my loop is how it should be

I just ordered some Mayhems blue dye to add to my loop, hopefully i can get it close to the colour of my heatsinks and braided cables


----------



## DigitalMonkey

Is XT-1 save to use with Masterkleer tubing?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigitalMonkey*
> 
> Is XT-1 save to use with Masterkleer tubing?


Go for the Primochill Advanced LRT (not Pro LRT), if you want to avoid clouding.

Masterkleer will take a while to cloud, but it will still cloud within a month or so (this was with just distilled + biocide).


----------



## kcuestag

I will be getting 2 bottles of Pastel White concentrate, can't wait to recieve it, first time using a coolant other than distilled water in my loop.









Considering I have a bay reservoir, how would you recommend me to mix it with the water? Should I drain the loop completely (I use distilled water and a silver kill coil) or should I use some of that water inside already?

Plus, should I do the concentrate+water mix outside the loop in some kind of container/bottle or is it ok if I first put water and then concentrate? I'm really not sure how I'd do it.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Plus, should I do the concentrate+water mix outside the loop in some kind of container/bottle or is it ok if I first put water and then concentrate? I'm really not sure how I'd do it.


I put all of my concentrate into one of THESE

Then I mixed individual liters in one of THESE

I then mixed all leftovers and have it stored in the DI water gallon container.


----------



## kcuestag

@Mayhem Would it actually be okay to mix it inside the loop? Or should I do it outside?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I put all of my concentrate into one of THESE
> 
> Then I mixed individual liters in one of THESE
> 
> I then mixed all leftovers and have it stored in the DI water gallon container.


I have something like that at home, I guess I could use it.









Still wondering if I could mix it inside the loop (In the bay reservoir), I'll wait for Mayhem's reply. Thanks!


----------



## Jameswalt1

I would never mix it in the loop. Too much likelyhood of the mixture percentages not being correct.


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I just mixed all in a measuring can and then poured it in the loop. Color changes a bit in the loop (because of tubing?), I balanced out the colors a bit more inside the loop.


----------



## GMPoison

What I'm going to do is empty a well cleaned gallon of milk and cut it a little above half, making a disposable bowl, pour in concentrate, measure 750 mL of water in a beaker or something and mix it in that, then I will use a Bitspower 70 mL Syringe and fill it up!


----------



## Heff04

The coolant keeps its color for a very long time. Also the coolant is suppose to stay full when off if it doesn't you have a massive air pocket.

Keep your eyes glued to the classifieds for your Gpu water blocks!


----------



## GMPoison

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heff04*
> 
> The coolant keeps its color for a very long time. Also the coolant is suppose to stay full when off if it doesn't you have a massive air pocket.
> 
> Keep your eyes glued to the classifieds for your Gpu water blocks!


----------



## Mayhem

@kcuestag Try not to mix in the loop all ways best to mix out side of the loop, how ever people have there own ways. Jameswalt1 is correct.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @kcuestag Try not to mix in the loop all ways best to mix out side of the loop, how ever people have there own ways. Jameswalt1 is correct.


Thanks, I'll mix it outside the loop then.


----------



## cyphon

Just ordered some Mayhems for my new build









Already have some pastel orange, I am going to put a couple drops of deep red dye in it to darken it a bit [perhaps]...this will be loop #1
Pastel ice white is going in loop #2


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just ordered some Mayhems for my new build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already have some pastel orange, I am going to put a couple drops of deep red dye in it to darken it a bit [perhaps]...this will be loop #1
> Pastel ice white is going in loop #2


Nice! Pastel White is what I'll be using my self.


----------



## kcuestag

@Mayhem I just happened to had another question. Considering I've only been using deionized water (From the closest supermarket) and a silver kill coil in the reservoir, would I really need to clean up all blocks and rads outside the loop or you think running deionized water a couple of times and draining it will be enough?

The only thing I really feel like taking out is the CPU block for some cleaning as it has some buildup.









And final question, how much of a temperature increase should I expect from distilled/deionized water to Mayhems Pastel White?


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Pastel ice white will give you a 1 to 2c increase in temps. You cannot beat water as of yet at low temps







.

As for cleaning if using just white, clean you main block as you suggest and just flush though. you should be fine as long as no color was used in the past.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Pastel ice white will give you a 1 to 2c increase in temps. You cannot beat water as of yet at low temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> As for cleaning if using just white, clean you main block as you suggest and just flush though. you should be fine as long as no color was used in the past.


Thanks, I used Mayhems Deep Red dye in the past, but that was well over 5-6 months ago and I've changed all my radiators (EK XT360 and HWLabs Black Ice GTS240 for a HWLabs Black Ice SR1 420mm and an Alphacool Monsta 240mm) and GPU blocks (From 2x GTX680 to 2x HD7970) since then, only thing I still conserve is the CPU waterblock, which I will be cleaning for sure.









1-2ºC seems reasonable for the gain in aesthetics, I'm getting the 250Ml concentrate bottles (They don't sell premix here in Spain), so I'm guessing it's the Ice White?

Thanks again for all the help Mick, appreciate it.


----------



## Darylrese

I just added 10 drops of Meyhems blue to my Berry Blue coolant and it looks hardly any different? How much should i be adding to make my coolant darker?

I want to ask before i continue to add incase i'm going OTT


----------



## NASzi

my rig with Pastel White

http://minus.com/lbsmm7iIx3LwVm


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> I just added 10 drops of Meyhems blue to my Berry Blue coolant and it looks hardly any different? How much should i be adding to make my coolant darker?
> 
> I want to ask before i continue to add incase i'm going OTT


I've used blue dye to color white pastel before, it took 30-40 drops to get the white to the color I wanted which was a few shades darker that your coolant. I would say add 5-10 more drops then let the loop do it's thing for a day or two, it might take a little while for the dye to fully mix into the coolant. Don't be scared to add more dye.


----------



## Darylrese

Ok thanks mate. I have put about 25 drops in so far, its slightly darker but not as dark as i thought it would be! I have blue stains all over my hands now, i dread to think what its going to do to my CPU block, radiator and res lol


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Ok thanks mate. I have put about 25 drops in so far, its slightly darker but not as dark as i thought it would be! I have blue stains all over my hands now, i dread to think what its going to do to my CPU block, radiator and res lol


Don't worry it's not that worst









On your hands it's pure dye but in the loop it's diluted


----------



## Darylrese

Here it is at the moment....still much lighter than my motherboard / fans but still looks great.



I wanted it to go a little bit more navy than it is


----------



## TheBlademaster01

I dropped in black (check Nardis).


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> I just added 10 drops of Meyhems blue to my Berry Blue coolant and it looks hardly any different? How much should i be adding to make my coolant darker?
> 
> I want to ask before i continue to add incase i'm going OTT


Check my photos in the default almbum and "cpu temp issues" album I think it was.
That's a bottle of blue berry and 9ml out of 10 of dark blue dye.

I was also very surprised when doing it because with just DI water it changed really fast. I counted the drops but gave up and just squirted some out, closed the res, powered the pump on and repeated untill I was happy.

The dyes now come in 15ml so don't worry, you'll eventually get there









EDIT:
*This album*
and *This one*

@TheBlademaster01, never would've even considered trying black but it looks like it worked


----------



## Darylrese

steelkevin - That colour is stunning! Nice job!

I also put 3 drops in a cup of water and it dyed really quick. I have now put about 40 drops in and its still light blue....keep going i guess lol

I have a 15ml bottle of blue lol


----------



## Los Hog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Ok thanks mate. I have put about 25 drops in so far, its slightly darker but not as dark as i thought it would be! I have blue stains all over my hands now, i dread to think what its going to do to my CPU block, radiator and res lol


Just dont go to the bathroom before you wash your hands


----------



## Stuntfly02

I read all the FAQs and the first few pages of posts and I have looked at many other places to find the answer, but what is the real status of Primochill advanced LRT tubing and the pastel line of coolants? Do they still turn this tubing green or not? I was really leaning toward these coolants and honestly don't want to use one of primochills. If mayhems won't work can any of you point me to the next best thing? I know this is a mayhems club and im not trying to advertise for any other companies but this is my first loop and I want to do things right.


----------



## cyphon

The Advanced are fine from everything I've heard. I'm pretty sure some of the users that follow this thread use it, maybe one of them can confirm.


----------



## wermad

Advance LRT is the best bet right now to avoid plasticizing. There a few other makes from other brands that will hold but its sporadic tbh. If you want more insight, go here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery

I'm sure most will recommend Advance Clear if you want to avoid clouding. I have some of the Adv. Atomic green and it has held (unlike the oid LRT i have). Getting my Clear Advance tube in tomorrow for my upcoming pastel setup







.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Thanks for the info guys, looks like I will be ordering some of the pastel. Now just to lock in my color and if I want to mix or premix or dye...lol. This coolant liquid deal has been the toughest decision of my entire build.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Thanks for the info guys, looks like I will be ordering some of the pastel. Now just to lock in my color and if I want to mix or premix or dye...lol. This coolant liquid deal has been the toughest decision of my entire build.


If you're looking for a custom color, i would post here or ask Mayhems-Mike for suggestions on the color you want. I'm going with Sunset Yellow. If I'm not happy with it it, i'll add some recommended color(s) to get the right consistency. I think I should be very happy w/ the Sunset Yellow. I ordered three bottles of concentrate but I will only mix two bottles first. I may just add some concentrate straight into the loop from the 3rd bottle to see if I get a deeper color. don't know until I get it tbh XD.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Thanks for the info guys, looks like I will be ordering some of the pastel. Now just to lock in my color and if I want to mix or premix or dye...lol. This coolant liquid deal has been the toughest decision of my entire build.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If you're looking for a custom color, i would post here or ask Mayhems-Mike for suggestions on the color you want. I'm going with Sunset Yellow. If I'm not happy with it it, i'll add some recommended color(s) to get the right consistency. I think I should be very happy w/ the Sunset Yellow. I ordered three bottles of concentrate but I will only mix two bottles first. I may just add some concentrate straight into the loop from the 3rd bottle to see if I get a deeper color. don't know until I get it tbh XD.


Going with what Wermad said: I'd post a picture of what color you're trying to get, whether it be from something in your build, or just a template you find online. Mayhems always gives out all the proper mixing advice for getting your color on his forum.


----------



## Mayhem

We are just working on some customs colours for a company in the UK and if you need help colour match post a Picture of what you after and we will help you match it.

@Post previous Primochill advance tubing is fine...

Mick


----------



## Stuntfly02

I am generally thinking a nice UV blue or bluish purple. But I was initially going for some sort of UV yellow. I noticed most companies don't really make a UV yellow and I'm not sure about a custom mix due to the time it would take to get to me. The sleeving in my case is UV blue and I thought yellow would be a nice contrast, especially with how UV yellows seem to react the best to the lights(at least in my experience). I am at work now so I can't post any pictures of my case right now, but I will post some pics later.

I guess with the yellow in mind, what do you recommends I do mayhem? What is he reactivity of the pastel yellow like? Ill get more feedback once I have some pics up. Again thank you for the assistance guys. Eased my mind on this coolant issue cause I wasn't sure what I would be using if the pastel would ruin my tubing.


----------



## Mayhem

If you wait it out for the new pastel UV Lime yellow it will kick you in the teeth and laugh at any black light you throw at it. Under UV light how ever it is greenish not yellow. Think of florescent safety jackets.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you wait it out for the new pastel UV Lime yellow it will kick you in the teeth and laugh at any black light you throw at it. Under UV light how ever it is greenish not yellow. Think of florescent safety jackets.


Yes, from your pics of it, I would have to say that sounds about right


----------



## Stuntfly02

Ok so here are a few pics of my build so far. Ignore any yellow sleeving and heat shrink on any cables. The heat shrink will be swapped to blue and the sleeving will be changed out as well for more blue. I only have like 2 good pics with the build as it sits right now where its all UV lighting. All the others are daytime shots where you hardly notice the UV. Ignore my custom fan mount also. That will be removed when the rest of the loop goes in.

Here is the best pic I have of it all lit up and no ambient lighting messing with the colors or effect of the UV it is slightly old though.



heres more recent pics.











Yes I know my motherboard has all these red accents. This is not the original board for this build. My Gigabyte 990fxa-ud5 shot the craps and I figured I would just get the best thing I could to replace it. And as you can see a little in the later pictures I have already removed a lot of the yellow.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you wait it out for the new pastel UV Lime yellow it will kick you in the teeth and laugh at any black light you throw at it. Under UV light how ever it is greenish not yellow. Think of florescent safety jackets.


I am very aware of this and most UV yellow materials giving off more of a green color. If you could link a pic or PM me one of the new lime green that would be great. Give me an idea of what is around. Do you have any sort of ETA on this new color being out to stores? I should have most of my components in by middle of next week and I was hoping to get going on building my loop as soon as possible.

What about adding your yellow dye to the UV white? What does this generally look like? Or do you have to use so much dye that its either not worth it or kills the UV effect?


----------



## wermad

Do you guys recommend premixing the pastel concentrate first w/ di or just pour into the loop and have the pump's circulations mix it?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Do you guys recommend premixing the pastel concentrate first w/ di or just pour into the loop and have the pump's circulations mix it?


I asked this very same question just a day or two ago, you can find it a page or two behind.









To summarize, Mayhem recommends to mix it OUTSIDE the loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I asked this very same question just a day or two ago, you can find it a page or two behind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To summarize, Mayhem recommends to mix it OUTSIDE the loop.


Thanks KC


----------



## Stuntfly02

Here is what I have now, this is as close as I can get it to how it looks to the naked eye.


----------



## Mayhem

@Stuntfly02 Ill go one better we need people to see the UV lime yellow in a system. We will hopefully be making new batches this week If and only if the base products arrive this week. If you would like to test and photo the product in a system for us ill send you it for free. This is so other users can see what it is like in a system that is independent from us. All i would ask is you take some photos in plain light and then under UV after you have put it in. As for Mayhems Pastel Yellow this is none UV active and is Yellow. There are many user system pics here is one some one built before


----------



## Stuntfly02

I had seen pics of the regular yellow, i was more asking about adding any of your yellow dyes to the Pastel UV white. However, I would be more than willing to test the new color for you







. Seriously never thought my questions would result in this, and I am genuinely grateful for this. I am guessing you are in the UK based on your website so I would be willing to cover the cost of the shipping or some of the cost. I don't I feel I should get it completely free if it is going to cost you too much to ship to the US. I have no idea about international shipping costs and regulations with things like these coolants/fluids.

Even if it isnt exactly ready next week I would be willing to wait a little longer to build everything if you need a few more days for things to come in. I guess PM me with any info you would need from me, besides my shipping information, if there is anything else. Again thank you so much Mayhem, I really did not expect it. And as you can see I have the ability to take quality images to show something off. So the pictures are no problem, and I promise that as soon as my build is ready and leak tested I will deliver pics.


----------



## Mayhem

Dont worry about shipping you are doing us the favour by posting your information and pics. PM me you full name, address, telephone number and how much you need. Ill sort it from there. You will be the first person out of mayhems to get there hands on this.


----------



## Stuntfly02

You rock Mayhem. PM is sent and i may have said it too many times already but again, thank you.


----------



## suwit hrc thai

i love beer


----------



## Darylrese

That beer fluid is quality haha


----------



## cyphon

That's awesome


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suwit hrc thai*
> 
> i love beer
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i love beer too. now, i love your rig.


----------



## stickg1

So we are in agreement that Red Pastel with a little extra red dye will look boss with an ROG theme?


----------



## Heff04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Stuntfly02 Ill go one better we need people to see the UV lime yellow in a system. We will hopefully be making new batches this week If and only if the base products arrive this week. If you would like to test and photo the product in a system for us ill send you it for free. This is so other users can see what it is like in a system that is independent from us. All i would ask is you take some photos in plain light and then under UV after you have put it in. As for Mayhems Pastel Yellow this is none UV active and is Yellow. There are many user system pics here is one some one built before


I'm really impressed. You've gained my respect for sure. Way to give back to the community! Very good way to show off your product. After all, that's how you got me hooked with your coolant... Seeing it used in other people's builds. My hat is off to you friend


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> @Stuntfly02 Ill go one better we need people to see the UV lime yellow in a system. We will hopefully be making new batches this week If and only if the base products arrive this week. If you would like to test and photo the product in a system for us ill send you it for free. This is so other users can see what it is like in a system that is independent from us. All i would ask is you take some photos in plain light and then under UV after you have put it in. As for Mayhems Pastel Yellow this is none UV active and is Yellow. There are many user system pics here is one some one built before


I hope mine looks this good


----------



## Solonowarion




----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*





















Looks awesome! You need to upload more pics. Someone is a pro at bending acrylic.


----------



## Heff04

Agreed! Love the acrylic!


----------



## wermad

Pastel, yummy:



Still leak testing.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CapnCrunch10*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks awesome! You need to upload more pics. Someone is a pro at bending acrylic.


Agreed! MOAR PIX PLOX!!!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pastel, yummy:
> 
> 
> 
> Still leak testing.


Not to sound too soft but that's a really pretty color. Looks good!


----------



## Lutfij

I want moar of that HRC build log!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suwit hrc thai*
> 
> i love beer
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Me too!


----------



## pompss

Hey guys.
i have a Loop with aurora green and after one month the silver parts of the liquid are
stick in the tubing , water blocks and reservoir.
My tubing from clear now is silver.
My pump runs at 100% speed but the silver doesnt go away.
Really dissapointed any suggestion???
My pump is D5 from swifteck


----------



## Swisser

Love this green. Matches my 2013 razer black widow 2013 and death adder 2013 perfectly.

Edit: I seriously need to get a decent camera... Cell phone pics are horrid.


----------



## Swisser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Hey guys.
> i have a Loop with aurora green and after one month the silver parts of the liquid are
> stick in the tubing , water blocks and reservoir.
> My tubing from clear now is silver.
> My pump runs at 100% speed but the silver doesnt go away.
> Really dissapointed any suggestion???
> My pump is D5 from swifteck


The Aurora fluid is not meant to be run for a prolonged period of time...

Its more for shows/photo shoots.

Edit: Unless they have a new formulation for it. I honestly haven't looked at the Aurora since shortly after it was released.


----------



## pompss

i know but in the web site they say the liquid should not stick.
If i knew that the silver parts will stick so much i would never buy it.
Also is just one month of using and its look very bad in the tubing.

here some pics


----------



## Mayhem

thank you for providing the pictures showing the bay res. http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/aurora-guide.html#.Ug5eTZLVBBM

Also the sticking is caused by issues with bad tubing.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> thank you for providing the pictures showing the bay res. http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/aurora-guide.html#.Ug5eTZLVBBM
> 
> Also the sticking is caused by issues with bad tubing.


i dont have bay res.this is the pump with EK top.
i have external reservoir with the silver part sticking in, i hit the res in order to knock off the silver .
with the tubing is not possibile.

bad tubing??
i use a Koolance Tubing, Clear PVC - UV Reactive - [13mm ID x 16mm OD] - HOS-13CL . 4 dollars at feet.

What tubing you guys suggest to use?
Also seems that the silver parts start sticking in the cpu water block. Ek supremacy.

here another pics


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> i dont have bay res.this is the pump with EK top.
> i have external reservoir with the silver part sticking in, i hit the res in order to knock off the silver .
> with the tubing is not possibile.
> 
> bad tubing??
> i use a Koolance Tubing, Clear PVC - UV Reactive - [13mm ID x 16mm OD] - HOS-13CL . 4 dollars at feet.
> 
> What tubing you guys suggest to use?
> Also seems that the silver parts start sticking in the cpu water block. Ek supremacy.


Primochill Advance clear, ~$2.50/ft.

Do you mean the nickel plating is coming off your barbs?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Not to sound too soft but that's a really pretty color. Looks good!


Thanks









More pics:


----------



## pompss

.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Primochill Advance clear, ~$2.50/ft.
> 
> Do you mean the nickel plating is coming off your barbs?
> Thanks


No i speak about the micro silver particle inside the aurora coolant start sticking everywhere.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> No i speak about the micro silver particle inside the aurora coolant start sticking everywhere.


Gotcha









Definitely get some Advance clear for your Aurora


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Hey guys.
> i have a Loop with aurora green and after one month the silver parts of the liquid are
> stick in the tubing , water blocks and reservoir.
> My tubing from clear now is silver.
> My pump runs at 100% speed but the silver doesnt go away.
> Really dissapointed any suggestion???
> My pump is D5 from swifteck


Can you post some pics? If I missed where you did, can you provide the link or page number.


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> No i speak about the micro silver particle inside the aurora coolant start sticking everywhere.


How did you prep your system prior to putting the fluid in. eg clean/flush etc etc.


----------



## Symek

My camera is very bad, Mayhems pastel mint green


----------



## GMPoison

Off topic question, but you guys are a great community on this forum so I'll ask here, don't yell at me







If I wanted to get a nice SSD like the Samsung 840, and I wanted to kind of have it on display, how would I go about mounting it on the side of the 5.25 drive bays? There are 2 "tool less instillation" "clip" things right there, you think they could just be torn off and an sdd could be mounted there with velcro? (I have nothing in my drive bays). Thank's a lot guys.


----------



## Sunreeper

I'd use industrial strength Velcro or just regular Velcro really.


----------



## cyphon

Woo! My Mayhems for the new build arived!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMPoison*
> 
> Off topic question, but you guys are a great community on this forum so I'll ask here, don't yell at me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I wanted to get a nice SSD like the Samsung 840, and I wanted to kind of have it on display, how would I go about mounting it on the side of the 5.25 drive bays? There are 2 "tool less instillation" "clip" things right there, you think they could just be torn off and an sdd could be mounted there with velcro? (I have nothing in my drive bays). Thank's a lot guys.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMPoison*
> 
> Off topic question, but you guys are a great community on this forum so I'll ask here, don't yell at me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I wanted to get a nice SSD like the Samsung 840, and I wanted to kind of have it on display, how would I go about mounting it on the side of the 5.25 drive bays? There are 2 "tool less instillation" "clip" things right there, you think they could just be torn off and an sdd could be mounted there with velcro? (I have nothing in my drive bays). Thank's a lot guys.


Well, assuming you have a liquid cooling loop since your sig says as much, and assuming you want the SSD to look cool, I would get something like this.

Then get a 3.5" drive bay to 2.5" bay converter.

Then you can install the SSD, have it in visual view, and have a unique look with the coolant flowing in the background.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMPoison*
> 
> Off topic question, but you guys are a great community on this forum so I'll ask here, don't yell at me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I wanted to get a nice SSD like the Samsung 840, and I wanted to kind of have it on display, how would I go about mounting it on the side of the 5.25 drive bays? There are 2 "tool less instillation" "clip" things right there, you think they could just be torn off and an sdd could be mounted there with velcro? (I have nothing in my drive bays). Thank's a lot guys.


Well, assuming you have a liquid cooling loop since your sig says as much, and assuming you want the SSD to look cool, I would get something like this.

Then get a 3.5" drive bay to 2.5" bay converter.

Then you can install the SSD, have it in visual view, and have a unique look with the coolant flowing in the background.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well, assuming you have a liquid cooling loop since your sig says as much, and assuming you want the SSD to look cool, I would get something like this.
> 
> Then get a 3.5" drive bay to 2.5" bay converter.
> 
> Then you can install the SSD, have it in visual view, and have a unique look with the coolant flowing in the background.


bahahahahahahahahahahahahaha! water cooling an SSD would be completely useless, lol...yet, could look pretty sweet....

My favorite part is the typeo in the parts description: keeps every high end HDD cool and *quite*.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> bahahahahahahahahahahahahaha! water cooling an SSD would be completely useless, lol...yet, could look pretty sweet....
> 
> My favorite part is the typeo in the parts description: keeps every high end HDD cool and *quite*.


Yup, it would be pretty pointless as far as cooling, especially because of the 3.5 to 2.5 converter, as it would seriously decrease heat transfer for an already pointless design. On the flop side, having a bar of liquid flowing just above your SSD would loop pretty, dare I say, cool.









As to the HDD being cool and quiet, it's also a decoupler... So it would keep it quieter than normal, in theory. (If you were actually using a HDD)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Yup, it would be pretty pointless as far as cooling, especially because of the 3.5 to 2.5 converter, as it would seriously decrease heat transfer for an already pointless design. On the flop side, having a bar of liquid flowing just above your SSD would loop pretty, dare I say, cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As to the HDD being cool and quiet, it's also a decoupler... So it would keep it quieter than normal, in theory. (If you were actually using a HDD)


Quiet would be good, but they said it'd make it 'quite'....


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quiet would be good, but they said it'd make it 'quite'....


Ah, I see. Hehe.

Magicool is just Chinese mass produced mimics for the most part, so it's not surprising there's some grammar errors in their translations.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quiet would be good, but they said it'd make it 'quite'....


"Quite" has been used a lot lately for the word "quiet" in forum posts. I suspect mainly by some of the younger crowd, who seem to enjoy destroying the English language.
I found it irritating at first, but have gotten used to it now.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> "Quite" has been used a lot lately for the word "quiet" in forum posts. I suspect mainly by some of the younger crowd, who seem to enjoy destroying the English language.
> I found it irritating at first, but have gotten used to it now.


If you find younger people using it annoying then seeing a major multinational watercooling parts manufacturing using it must REALLY grind your gears.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quiet would be good, but they said it'd make it 'quite'....
> 
> 
> 
> "Quite" has been used a lot lately for the word "quiet" in forum posts. I suspect mainly by some of the younger crowd, who seem to enjoy destroying the English language.
> I found it irritating at first, but have gotten used to it now.
Click to expand...

Language is a concept that is constantly evolving I'm pretty sure if Shakespeare was alive right now he'd be pretty pissed at how you're writing.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> "Quite" has been used a lot lately for the word "quiet" in forum posts. I suspect mainly by some of the younger crowd, who seem to enjoy destroying the English language.
> I found it irritating at first, but have gotten used to it now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you find younger people using it annoying then seeing a major multinational watercooling parts manufacturing using it must REALLY grind your gears.
Click to expand...

As I just mentioned, I found it irritating at first, but I'm used to it now, thus it no longer irritates me.
As for what you just said about Magicool, English isn't necessarily the primary language of their employees, so that is to be expected to some extent. I certainly wouldn't get very far attempting to write something in Chinese.


----------



## wermad

Mayhems Dye thread please. Not Grammer thread


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Mayhems Dye thread please. Not Grammer thread


Good point.
Here's a photo of my recent switch over to Mayhems Pastel White coolant:

I've been extremely pleased with it, and there has been very little variation in my cpu and gpu temps. compared to running on distilled.
I'm sure you'll get similar results in your lovely Pastel Yellow loop as well, wermad.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Good point.
> Here's a photo of my recent switch over to Mayhems Pastel White coolant:
> 
> I've been extremely pleased with it, and there has been very little variation in my cpu and gpu temps. compared to running on distilled.
> I'm sure you'll get similar results in your lovely Pastel Yellow loop as well, wermad.


Thanks, yours looks yummy too







. How long have you been running pastel?


----------



## cyphon

All your base are belong to us

Sorry but was the one time a year where it seemed appropriate









Now back to the original programming:

How many drops of deep red do you think it will take to go from pastel orange toa couple shades darker


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Good point.
> Here's a photo of my recent switch over to Mayhems Pastel White coolant:
> 
> I've been extremely pleased with it, and there has been very little variation in my cpu and gpu temps. compared to running on distilled.
> I'm sure you'll get similar results in your lovely Pastel Yellow loop as well, wermad.


Since there has been much discussion around pastel and temp differences from running DI water and you have a good loop and good number of blocks... what is the biggest delta you have seen at max load between DI water and pastel?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Thanks, yours looks yummy too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . How long have you been running pastel?


I really like their Pastel coolant. The yellow shade you chose for your 900D really makes it stand out, yet it blends in great with the green rads, etc.









I switched over to Mayhems Pastel White only about three weeks ago, from distilled. The loop is about a month old now.
Expecting a few degrees higher temps. when I switched to the Mayhems coolant, I was surprised to see it performing about the same.

It's nice to have the look of the pastel, yet still get good temps. running it. You've got a ton of rad space, so I would think it will do very well in your build.

Edit:
@cyphon:
In my case, I really didn't see much of a temp. increase when I switched from distilled to pastel, but I certainly didn't use very scientific methods for checking the temps.








I ran Kombustor to load both gpu's, Prime 95 for the cpu, and some 3Dmark tests, Heaven, and gaming. The outside temp. here has hovered in the 90's for weeks now, I try to keep it around 20C in the "computer room".
I would say no more than a degree higher temps. with the pastel coolant, but of course that can vary for others.

More Editing:
@cyphon:
I had a look at your build log, very impressive build!








Idk anything about coloring the pastel with dye to darken your orange, but I'm sure you'll figure it out.
I found a post from Mick a few pages back, he said that pastel (ice white) may run only a degree or two higher than distilled, which confirms my findings with this great coolant:
www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/2880#post_20596099


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Hi everyone, a couple of months I posted a issue that I had with my pastel which was just great for a few weeks until this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






appeared. Over a month ago I drained my Coolant and just started flushing like crazy and some of these same dark marks pretty much stuck to my tubing. A expected pump troubles with my D5 has allowed me to tear everything apart and I have been cleaning my parts. I had suspected for a long time now that I did not take the time to really clean out my new GPU block I added to the loop about 4 months ago and some things that I saw pretty much confirmed it.

Ok on to my question, I am getting ready for round 2 with pastel and I just bought some primochill LRT advanced. My question is about the sys-prep that it comes with.... To use or not to use







? I am in the process of cleaning all my blocks (working on cleaning the oxidation off my CPU copper block) as well as flushing my rad. I plan to run my system clear bit, flush again, then change over to the pastel green since my retailer won't get it in for another week.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> Hi everyone, a couple of months I posted a issue that I had with my pastel which was just great for a few weeks until this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> appeared. Over a month ago I drained my Coolant and just started flushing like crazy and some of these same dark marks pretty much stuck to my tubing. A expected pump troubles with my D5 has allowed me to tear everything apart and I have been cleaning my parts. I had suspected for a long time now that I did not take the time to really clean out my new GPU block I added to the loop about 4 months ago and some things that I saw pretty much confirmed it.
> 
> Ok on to my question, I am getting ready for round 2 with pastel and I just bought some primochill LRT advanced. My question is about the sys-prep that it comes with.... To use or not to use:headscrat ? I am in the process of cleaning all my blocks (working on cleaning the oxidation off my CPU copper block) as well as flushing my rad. I plan to run my system clear bit, flush again, then change over to the pastel green since my retailer won't get it in for another week.


Well, it's been on the market for a while and I have yet to see complaints about it. If you do clean your loop with it, definitely flush it really well. An overly acidic Ph has caused issues with some of Mayhems pastel in the past, but I'm unsure of how the modern mixes react to an unbalanced Ph. Either way it should be safe to use, again, just be sure to flush your loop.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> Hi everyone, a couple of months I posted a issue that I had with my pastel which was just great for a few weeks until this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> appeared. Over a month ago I drained my Coolant and just started flushing like crazy and some of these same dark marks pretty much stuck to my tubing. A expected pump troubles with my D5 has allowed me to tear everything apart and I have been cleaning my parts. I had suspected for a long time now that I did not take the time to really clean out my new GPU block I added to the loop about 4 months ago and some things that I saw pretty much confirmed it.
> 
> Ok on to my question, I am getting ready for round 2 with pastel and I just bought some primochill LRT advanced. My question is about the sys-prep that it comes with.... To use or not to use:headscrat ? I am in the process of cleaning all my blocks (working on cleaning the oxidation off my CPU copper block) as well as flushing my rad. I plan to run my system clear bit, flush again, then change over to the pastel green since my retailer won't get it in for another week.


I just put mine together a day ago (pastel yellow w/ advance lrt) and so far so good. Advance LRT is probably the best right now to avoid issues.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> Hi everyone, a couple of months I posted a issue that I had with my pastel which was just great for a few weeks until this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> appeared. Over a month ago I drained my Coolant and just started flushing like crazy and some of these same dark marks pretty much stuck to my tubing. A expected pump troubles with my D5 has allowed me to tear everything apart and I have been cleaning my parts. I had suspected for a long time now that I did not take the time to really clean out my new GPU block I added to the loop about 4 months ago and some things that I saw pretty much confirmed it.
> 
> Ok on to my question, I am getting ready for round 2 with pastel and I just bought some primochill LRT advanced. My question is about the sys-prep that it comes with.... To use or not to use:headscrat ? I am in the process of cleaning all my blocks (working on cleaning the oxidation off my CPU copper block) as well as flushing my rad. I plan to run my system clear bit, flush again, then change over to the pastel green since my retailer won't get it in for another week.


I just put mine together a day ago (pastel yellow w/ advance lrt) and so far so good. Advance LRT is probably the best right now to avoid issues.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Thanks guys. I have been using lemon juice to clean my blocks so the system is going to get a good flushing over the next week till my mint green pastel comes in. I did get some pH test strips and did take a reading of my old pastel and it tested at 7.8


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> Thanks guys. I have been using lemon juice to clean my blocks so the system is going to get a good flushing over the next week till my mint green pastel comes in. I did get some pH test strips and did take a reading of my old pastel and it tested at 7.8


7-8 is considered Ph neutral, Pure H2O has a Ph of 6.3 (Very close to neutral) so you were in the realm of acceptance. Just be sure to flush really well if you're using lemon juice.


----------



## Mayhem

I realy do recommend if using lemon just to then rinse with Bicarb to remove the acid of the lemon juice. Lemon juice is excellent for cleaning but must be neutralised afterwards.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YeAz*
> 
> How did you prep your system prior to putting the fluid in. eg clean/flush etc etc.


clean flush with distilled water.
but i dont know why the product stick so much.
they should people know about this in the web site.


----------



## szeged

Just curious, i know what the PH levels of water can do to your dyes ( seeing as my red turned to poo brown twice even though i cleaned everything in my loop to hospital standards) lol, what my question is, what on the waterblocks will cause the PH to change? ive scrubbed mine clean so many times but im clearly missing something in my loop, ive cleaned every single waterblock, every single O ring, every single fitting, both of my reservoirs, the pump and the drain ports. Still getting a PH level that is ruining my red dye.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> Thanks guys. I have been using lemon juice to clean my blocks so the system is going to get a good flushing over the next week till my mint green pastel comes in. I did get some pH test strips and did take a reading of my old pastel and it tested at 7.8


I have XSPC PVC tube and I have had no issues.


----------



## stickg1

I use the mayhem biocide extreme. Keeps my ph in check.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I have XSPC PVC tube and I have had no issues.


my friend was using the pastel and seems its sticking in the water block and tubing too. he notice after unmount the loop.
also my aurora is sticking in the tubing, external reservoir and water block.
Disappointed because i was considering to change with pastel.
Mayhem say its bad tubing issues but i using a koolance pvc tubing,
Also stick's in the res. and water block too.
I dont think changing tube will solve this problem also i dont have quick release fitting and would be a pain unmount the tubing.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Just curious, i know what the PH levels of water can do to your dyes ( seeing as my red turned to poo brown twice even though i cleaned everything in my loop to hospital standards) lol, what my question is, what on the waterblocks will cause the PH to change? ive scrubbed mine clean so many times but im clearly missing something in my loop, ive cleaned every single waterblock, every single O ring, every single fitting, both of my reservoirs, the pump and the drain ports. Still getting a PH level that is ruining my red dye.


The rads







You haven'rt mentioned them


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> The rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You haven'rt mentioned them


yep i flushed the rads aswell


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> clean flush with distilled water.
> but i dont know why the product stick so much.


Were the parts used in a working loop before you used Aurora??? or are they all new parts put into a new build???
If they are new parts there is a way for prepping them. If it is a used loop there is a way for prepping again. Though I am not going to get into cleaning again. Cleaning is really a personal process.

You need to decide now what you want to do. Do you want to troubleshoot the problem or just replace with pastel. Aurora takes time to troubleshoot. Either way you need to pull down your loop and clean.
before you do that, I have seen pics of your rez and tubes but not your block or entire loop in system.

Also if you are going use Aurora again, think about using tested and recommended tubing - like Advanced Clear (tested and works).

Hope you get it sorted. Mayhem does well providing info on this fluid and some of us are here to help also. So let us know how you get on.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> my friend was using the pastel and seems its sticking in the water block and tubing too. he notice after unmount the loop.
> also my aurora is sticking in the tubing, external reservoir and water block.
> Disappointed because i was considering to change with pastel.
> Mayhem say its bad tubing issues but i using a koolance pvc tubing,
> Also stick's in the res. and water block too.
> I dont think changing tube will solve this problem also i dont have quick release fitting and would be a pain unmount the tubing.


Okay, too me it sounds like you might have a high Ph rating. A very low (acidic) Ph rating can cause corrosion as well as mess up dyes/additives. On the complete flop side, if you have a very high Ph (known as being very basic, or alkaline) it will cause scaling issues. (Scaling is when material deposits itself on solid surfaces, and builds up)

Do you still have the coolant that's sticking to the edges in your loop? Pop a Ph test strip in there, and see if it's too high. If it's above 8 it might be too high.

This is just speculation based on not so simple chemistry, so we'll wait to see what Mayhems has to say. It couldn't hurt to check though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Just curious, i know what the PH levels of water can do to your dyes ( seeing as my red turned to poo brown twice even though i cleaned everything in my loop to hospital standards) lol, what my question is, what on the waterblocks will cause the PH to change? ive scrubbed mine clean so many times but im clearly missing something in my loop, ive cleaned every single waterblock, every single O ring, every single fitting, both of my reservoirs, the pump and the drain ports. Still getting a PH level that is ruining my red dye.


Residue from cleaning agents on them would be my guess. Neutralize it, like Mike said, and then flush it out really good with water.

On a side note, what Distilled water/ultrapure are you mixing with it, assuming you're using a concentrate? Some ultrapures have propylene-glycol mixed in them.
(Disregard the last two question and statement if you're using any Mayhems premix)


----------



## szeged

Well i was using just plain store bought one dollar distelled water and the mayhems blood red concentrate, i cleaned out every component three times before i put it back in the loop, thorough cleaning inside and out, still the PH level eats the red turning it to brown.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YeAz*
> 
> Were the parts used in a working loop before you used Aurora??? or are they all new parts put into a new build???
> If they are new parts there is a way for prepping them. If it is a used loop there is a way for prepping again. Though I am not going to get into cleaning again. Cleaning is really a personal process.
> 
> You need to decide now what you want to do. Do you want to troubleshoot the problem or just replace with pastel. Aurora takes time to troubleshoot. Either way you need to pull down your loop and clean.
> before you do that, I have seen pics of your rez and tubes but not your block or entire loop in system.
> 
> Also if you are going use Aurora again, think about using tested and recommended tubing - like Advanced Clear (tested and works).
> 
> Hope you get it sorted. Mayhem does well providing info on this fluid and some of us are here to help also. So let us know how you get on.


Was new build never used

here a pic



Do you have the aurora too??? if yes what brand tubing you using with.


----------



## kcuestag

You showed the problem your self, a bay reservoir is not supposed to be used because the particles will stay in the bottom, very same effect you're getting on that cylinder reservoir by laying it down on top of the case, causing the aurora particles to stay on the bottom.

At least that's my theory.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> You showed the problem your self, a bay reservoir is not supposed to be used because the particles will stay in the bottom, very same effect you're getting on that cylinder reservoir by laying it down on top of the case, causing the aurora particles to stay on the bottom.
> 
> At least that's my theory.


Sounds logical....Not sure if the fluid entering the res wouldn't be strong enough to stir everything around, though.

Guess the exception would probably be the XSPC DDC bay res....the res part is basically a pump top and it just conveniently fits in your 5.25" drives, lol


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Was new build never used
> 
> Do you have the aurora too??? if yes what brand tubing you using with.


My tubing is PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2 to 3/4OD crystal clear tubing and works well. Try some of that.

In regards to your CPU block what have you done there??? have you changed the injection plate to the J3 plate? or have you removed it completely?

In regards to your Res, I have always cleaned the inner surface by hand prior to install (no chemicals though). No matter how clean they look from the box. Looking at your pic before there could have been something on the surface causing the particles to form there. Few things to try here.

1. Clean res and try again.

2. Rotate res slightly and test (see if it gathers same spot different part of the surface) Then you know that you have a dead spot and your install needs to be changed.

3. Redesign the loop so your fluid enters the res where you have your fill port (I know that is going to be a pain but there are plenty of vids showing that it can work in a horizontal mounted tube res. This method should cause more fluid movement in the res, more than how you have it currently. Oh by the way I would suggest removing the fill port altogether. You might find you have been collecting particles in that 90gree fitting you have there. I can not see how the res would knock it out if it has built up in there. Search for Mayhem's Aurora Green in YouTube, vid by a user called Armands Xe Xe.

4. All else fails, worse possible case scenario, find a way to mount the res vertically.

5. Might want to try a smaller res.

It is all trial and error if you want it to last.

enjoy the spanner time. let us know how you get on.


----------



## kimoswabi

Hey guys. I started a thread regarding a yellow translucent ring I'm seeing in my loop and was advised to try my luck here in trying to unravel this mystery.
This is my first time using Ice Dragon coolant (I understand Mayhems & Ice Dragon worked together to develop this coolant) and within about 2 weeks, I started to notice a yellowish, almost translucent ring in the area around my fittings. It's most prominent on my CPU waterblock fitting and I've noticed varying degrees of yellowness only around the fittings.
The translucent ring almost looks like the liquid that separates when paint sits around for a long time.
My loop is in a Prodigy mITX with EK-DCP 2.2 pump and both my CPU & GPU are underwater.
The fittings are combination or Alphacool & Bitspower.
I'm using PrimoFlex Advanced LRT clear tubing. I've flushed out the radiator with near-boiling distilled water prior to putting in the Ice Dragon coolant.

What do you guys think this could be?

Here's a pic of the ring (you'll have to click on the pic to see it better).


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Hey guys. I started a thread regarding a yellow translucent ring I'm seeing in my loop and was advised to try my luck here in trying to unravel this mystery.
> This is my first time using Ice Dragon coolant (I understand Mayhems & Ice Dragon worked together to develop this coolant) and within about 2 weeks, I started to notice a yellowish, almost translucent ring in the area around my fittings. It's most prominent on my CPU waterblock fitting and I've noticed varying degrees of yellowness only around the fittings.
> The translucent ring almost looks like the liquid that separates when paint sits around for a long time.
> My loop is in a Prodigy mITX with EK-DCP 2.2 pump and both my CPU & GPU are underwater.
> The fittings are combination or Alphacool & Bitspower.
> I'm using PrimoFlex Advanced LRT clear tubing. I've flushed out the radiator with near-boiling distilled water prior to putting in the Ice Dragon coolant.
> 
> What do you guys think this could be?
> 
> Here's a pic of the ring (you'll have to click on the pic to see it better).


Hmmm, looks to me like it is possibly the barb of the compression fitting????? Not sure why'd that be yellow though.

Do you see any other places like this in your loop?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Hey guys. I started a thread regarding a yellow translucent ring I'm seeing in my loop and was advised to try my luck here in trying to unravel this mystery.
> This is my first time using Ice Dragon coolant (I understand Mayhems & Ice Dragon worked together to develop this coolant) and within about 2 weeks, I started to notice a yellowish, almost translucent ring in the area around my fittings. It's most prominent on my CPU waterblock fitting and I've noticed varying degrees of yellowness only around the fittings.
> The translucent ring almost looks like the liquid that separates when paint sits around for a long time.
> My loop is in a Prodigy mITX with EK-DCP 2.2 pump and both my CPU & GPU are underwater.
> The fittings are combination or Alphacool & Bitspower.
> I'm using PrimoFlex Advanced LRT clear tubing. I've flushed out the radiator with near-boiling distilled water prior to putting in the Ice Dragon coolant.
> 
> What do you guys think this could be?
> 
> Here's a pic of the ring (you'll have to click on the pic to see it better).


Have you ever switched the compression fittings out on your rig? The area on the tubing where the fitting was actually compressing may have caused a little divot/weak point on the tubing. Then when using a different compression fitting which had a neck that didn't go as high may have lead to scaling along the older compression fittings mark. At least that's my hypothesis.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Hmmm, looks to me like it is possibly the barb of the compression fitting????? Not sure why'd that be yellow though.
> 
> Do you see any other places like this in your loop?


Yes, the yellowness is varying in intensity around other fittings.
The 90deg fittings are Alphacool and the 45deg & straight compression fittings are Bitspower and since the yellowness is around both brands of fittings, it's can't be a quality of the fittings issue.

You can see in these pics the varying intensity of the yellowness but it's most noticeable on the fitting on my CPU waterblock.

On this pic, both are 90deg fittings and yellow ring seems to be only showing on the left fitting.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Have you ever switched the compression fittings out on your rig? The area on the tubing where the fitting was actually compressing may have caused a little divot/weak point on the tubing. Then when using a different compression fitting which had a neck that didn't go as high may have lead to scaling along the older compression fittings mark. At least that's my hypothesis.


The fittings, tubing, and CPU/ GPU waterblocks are brand new for this build.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Yes, the yellowness is varying in intensity around other fittings.
> The 90deg fittings are Alphacool and the 45deg & straight compression fittings are Bitspower and since the yellowness is around both brands of fittings, it's can't be a quality of the fittings issue.
> 
> You can see in these pics the varying intensity of the yellowness but it's not most noticeable on the fitting on my CPU waterblock.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like it is all of your fittings, and roughly the same spot on all of them.... What about anywhere else? any deposits along the tube, in the res, blocks, etc?

How tight did you torque down the fittings?

I am thinking it is just the fitting pressing on the tube


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looks like it is all of your fittings, and roughly the same spot on all of them.... What about anywhere else? any deposits along the tube, in the res, blocks, etc?
> 
> How tight did you torque down the fittings?
> 
> I am thinking it is just the fitting pressing on the tube


Everywhere else seems fine. No noticeable deposits there.
The fittings are finger tightened and not torqued hard at all.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Everywhere else seems fine. No noticeable deposits there.
> The fittings are finger tightened and not torqued hard at all.


Ok, let it run and keep an eye on it to see if it shows anywhere else. I really think it is just the fittings though.


----------



## wermad

what fittings are they? I know TFC are crap and they would etch a line into the tube as your try to squeeze them in and grab (yeah, just grabbing the threads is a monster pita).


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> what fittings are they? I know TFC are crap and they would etch a line into the tube as your try to squeeze them in and grab (yeah, just grabbing the threads is a monster pita).


He said some were alpha cool and some were bits power.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> He said some were alpha cool and some were bits power.


Ah, ok. Not my theory then









Strange though...Well, you can always pull the loop and see what's going on internally.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> what fittings are they? I know TFC are crap and they would etch a line into the tube as your try to squeeze them in and grab (yeah, just grabbing the threads is a monster pita).


I've got a bunch of Feser straight and 45-degee comps. with my Durelene tubing, they've been great so far. The only fittings I've had issues with are the Alphacool 90-degree fittings I had, one of them leaked at the swivel joint, so I replaced them with Bitspower 90-degree comps. Idk if the Feser fittings have issues with different brands of tubing, but no problema here.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I've got a bunch of Feser straight and 45-degee comps. with my Durelene tubing, they've been great so far. The only fittings I've had issues with are the Alphacool 90-degree fittings I had, one of them leaked at the swivel joint, so I replaced them with Bitspower 90-degree comps. Idk if the Feser fittings have issues with different brands of tubing, but no problema here.


Tbh, the TFC i bought in 2010 (19x12mm) were great. But the 16x10mm were bad (late 2011). I had a member ask me about them last year as he could get some really cheap. I warned him they were bad and he found out the hard way. Anyways, I know Feser was a top player but they have pretty much gone down in quality.

I love Alphacool fittings and Enzos are pretty great too. BP have the best fitment but you pay extra for them


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I've got a bunch of Feser straight and 45-degee comps. with my Durelene tubing, they've been great so far. The only fittings I've had issues with are the Alphacool 90-degree fittings I had, one of them leaked at the swivel joint, so I replaced them with Bitspower 90-degree comps. Idk if the Feser fittings have issues with different brands of tubing, but no problema here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tbh, the TFC i bought in 2010 (19x12mm) were great. But the 16x10mm were bad (late 2011). I had a member ask me about them last year as he could get some really cheap. I warned him they were bad and he found out the hard way. Anyways, I know Feser was a top player but they have pretty much gone down in quality.
> 
> I love Alphacool fittings and Enzos are pretty great too. BP have the best fitment but you pay extra for them
Click to expand...

Yep, those Bitspower fittings are damned expensive, but they are great quality. I started out with TFC fittings, couldn't get any 90-degree ones though, so I bought four Alphacool 90-degree swivels at a good price. Big mistake. But, it seems like a lottery with this stuff sometimes. I like Enzos too, I also have a few, I suspect they're made at the same factory as Bitspower in Taiwan.


----------



## kimoswabi

All of my fittings are Bitspower except for the 90deg fittings which are Alphacool. Bitspower 90deg fittings costs $17.50 vs $8 for Alphacool. I'm willing to forego matching fittings to not have to pay over 2x the cost. The Alphacool fittings feel flimsier compared to Bitspower fittings but I haven't had any problems with defective fittings yet (knock on wood).

I'm going to give it another day or so and then drain the IceDragon coolant and pull out all the tubings and see what the yellow thing is. Maybe I'll give Mayhem's Pastel White a try and do a back to back comparison.


----------



## Supacasey

Hey all, sorry for asking a question that probably gets asked a lot, but how badly would white dye stain components over time?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> All of my fittings are Bitspower except for the 90deg fittings which are Alphacool. Bitspower 90deg fittings costs $17.50 vs $8 for Alphacool. I'm willing to forego matching fittings to not have to pay over 2x the cost. The Alphacool fittings feel flimsier compared to Bitspower fittings but I haven't had any problems with defective fittings yet (knock on wood).
> 
> I'm going to give it another day or so and then drain the IceDragon coolant and pull out all the tubings and see what the yellow thing is. Maybe I'll give Mayhem's Pastel White a try and do a back to back comparison.


Good luck!


----------



## Mayhem

it doesn't and its not a dye but a nano fluid.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Yes, the yellowness is varying in intensity around other fittings.
> The 90deg fittings are Alphacool and the 45deg & straight compression fittings are Bitspower and since the yellowness is around both brands of fittings, it's can't be a quality of the fittings issue.
> 
> You can see in these pics the varying intensity of the yellowness but it's most noticeable on the fitting on my CPU waterblock.
> 
> On this pic, both are 90deg fittings and yellow ring seems to be only showing on the left fitting.


Looks like the lacquer on the fitting is coming off with the heat expanding and reducing the tubing making it show on the tubing. Id give it time ad see how it goes.


----------



## Supacasey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> it doesn't and its not a dye but a nano fluid.


So you're telling me that it will never stain, gunk, or in any way misbehave like coolant color additives have in the past? ...Ever?

Because if so I'll take 20.


----------



## stickg1

Man, bummer. I was just finishing up a big order with PPCS and went to add the pastel red concentrate to my cart but its sold out. So I was going to get some red dye and that's sold out too! Some of the stuff I have in my cart is heavily on sale or I can't get it at FrozenCPU so IDK, I guess colored DI will have to wait until next time..


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supacasey*
> 
> So you're telling me that it will never stain, gunk, or in any way misbehave like coolant color additives have in the past? ...Ever?
> 
> Because if so I'll take 20.


I used Ice Dragon for about 14 months in a GPU loop, no staining, no gunk and it worked well.

EDIT: The more heat the better with ID, especially in GPU loops.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> I'm going to give it another day or so and then drain the IceDragon coolant and pull out all the tubings and see what the yellow thing is. Maybe I'll give Mayhem's Pastel White a try and do a back to back comparison.


So, I drained and took apart my tubes and inspected them and here's my findings.
1) Tubes (PrimoFlex Advanced LRT) are still in great condition, nice and clear with no visible plasticizing or staining from the IceDragon coolant.
2) The yellow material doesn't look to be liquid based but it seems to be sediment of some sort. The sediment material is on the inside of the tubes (2 different tubes pictured below)



3) Here's a comparison of a new IceDragon coolant (Left) vs. the drained coolant (Right). Notice how the used coolant is slightly darker in color?


4) I reinstalled the loop with new tubing and flushed it a number of times until the water looked clear. Then I drained it and put in blue coolant so that if there were any sediment still in my loop, it'd show up better than it would in clear distilled water. Lo and behold, you can see residue/ settlement collecting in the reservoir near the top.


5) Here's a close up of the residue/ sediment collected with a Q-tip.


Could they be the nano-particles separating out from the coolant? or dirty sediment from the radiator (Alphacool)? I did flush the radiator 5 times with near-boiling water prior to installation.
Mick mentioned it could be Lacquer coming off from the fittings (which sound quite scary) but I'm really stumped.
Last thing to note is that all of the components for this loop are brand new.


----------



## Mayhem

nano-particles are so small you cannot see them with normal mk1 eye ball .. that's crap from your rad ive seen the same thing for many years.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> nano-particles are so small you cannot see them with normal mk1 eye ball .. that's crap from your rad ive seen the same thing for many years.


And once again, a coolant got the blame............

And yeah you aren't going to see a nano particle, lol. We are talking things in the 1E-9 meter range. Basically, 1 billionth of a meter or 1 millionth of a millimeter


----------



## pompss

Hey guys i have a question
how i can get the aurora coolant green uv like this one???


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Hey guys i have a question
> how i can get the aurora coolant green uv like this one???
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I think you can just add UV Green dye??.

Aurora has particles that are made to reflect light. UV is made to absorb light and react to it (glow). So it seems counter productive to make one do the other....


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I think you can just add UV Green dye??.
> 
> Aurora has particles that are made to reflect light. UV is made to absorb light and react to it (glow). So it seems counter productive to make one do the other....


let see what mayhem say about this
For coolant uv fuild i need to place uv lights?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> For coolant uv fuild i need to place uv lights?


If you want the effect yes


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> I'm going to give it another day or so and then drain the IceDragon coolant and pull out all the tubings and see what the yellow thing is. Maybe I'll give Mayhem's Pastel White a try and do a back to back comparison.
> 
> 
> 
> So, I drained and took apart my tubes and inspected them and here's my findings.
> 1) Tubes (PrimoFlex Advanced LRT) are still in great condition, nice and clear with no visible plasticizing or staining from the IceDragon coolant.
> 2) The yellow material doesn't look to be liquid based but it seems to be sediment of some sort. The sediment material is on the inside of the tubes (2 different tubes pictured below)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) Here's a comparison of a new IceDragon coolant (Left) vs. the drained coolant (Right). Notice how the used coolant is slightly darker in color?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4) I reinstalled the loop with new tubing and flushed it a number of times until the water looked clear. Then I drained it and put in blue coolant so that if there were any sediment still in my loop, it'd show up better than it would in clear distilled water. Lo and behold, you can see residue/ settlement collecting in the reservoir near the top.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5) Here's a close up of the residue/ sediment collected with a Q-tip.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could they be the nano-particles separating out from the coolant? or dirty sediment from the radiator (Alphacool)? I did flush the radiator 5 times with near-boiling water prior to installation.
> Mick mentioned it could be Lacquer coming off from the fittings (which sound quite scary) but I'm really stumped.
> Last thing to note is that all of the components for this loop are brand new.
Click to expand...

I've been using Mayhems Pastel White for a while now, no issues, it's a great coolant.
Rep+ for your post and photos.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> nano-particles are so small you cannot see them with normal mk1 eye ball .. that's crap from your rad ive seen the same thing for many years.


I agree with that, it's impossible to flush everything out of a rad.


----------



## MulletHunter

Hey Mayhem I have a question about the Aurora liquid. I am running a CPU loop with the Tharsis red in it and after 2 days the effect had almost completely diminished.
My current Setup :
240 Alphcool slim rad
two 90 deg elbows
primo chill tube
EK Acetal block
EK tube res
d5 pump with ek compression fitting block mod

Now what concerns me is that my pump is a PWM pump so it would run pretty slow during idle because its tied into the cpu header with the fans.
I read on the wiki (after the fact) that they need to run at 100% now if i hook the pump up to a different header and run at 100% will the effect come back? and if not is there anything else I can do?
At the moment there is some effect in the Res but my coolant lines look pretty much like clear red with little to no effect.

Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MulletHunter*
> 
> Hey Mayhem I have a question about the Aurora liquid. I am running a CPU loop with the Tharsis red in it and after 2 days the effect had almost completely diminished.
> My current Setup :
> 240 Alphcool slim rad
> two 90 deg elbows
> primo chill tube
> EK Acetal block
> EK tube res
> d5 pump with ek compression fitting block mod
> 
> Now what concerns me is that my pump is a PWM pump so it would run pretty slow during idle because its tied into the cpu header with the fans.
> I read on the wiki (after the fact) that they need to run at 100% now if i hook the pump up to a different header and run at 100% will the effect come back? and if not is there anything else I can do?
> At the moment there is some effect in the Res but my coolant lines look pretty much like clear red with little to no effect.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated
> Thanks


Sounds like the particles got stuck somewhere to me............


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MulletHunter*
> 
> Hey Mayhem I have a question about the Aurora liquid. I am running a CPU loop with the Tharsis red in it and after 2 days the effect had almost completely diminished.
> My current Setup :
> 240 Alphcool slim rad
> two 90 deg elbows
> primo chill tube
> EK Acetal block
> EK tube res
> d5 pump with ek compression fitting block mod
> 
> Now what concerns me is that my pump is a PWM pump so it would run pretty slow during idle because its tied into the cpu header with the fans.
> I read on the wiki (after the fact) that they need to run at 100% now if i hook the pump up to a different header and run at 100% will the effect come back? and if not is there anything else I can do?
> At the moment there is some effect in the Res but my coolant lines look pretty much like clear red with little to no effect.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated
> Thanks


the pump is running slow.
Put it a max and you will see the effect coming back.
this is what happend to me when i running the pump slow for a couple of hours


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I think you can just add UV Green dye??.
> 
> Aurora has particles that are made to reflect light. UV is made to absorb light and react to it (glow). So it seems counter productive to make one do the other....


Nail on the head..... listen to the man he does a far far better job than me at explaining things ...

The d5 vario is what we tested on and we ran it at level 4 to 5 . And yes it can get stuck some ware such as a badly bent tube in a rad.


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MulletHunter*
> 
> I read on the wiki (after the fact) that they need to run at 100% now if i hook the pump up to a different header and run at 100% will the effect come back? and if not is there anything else I can do?
> At the moment there is some effect in the Res but my coolant lines look pretty much like clear red with little to no effect.


If it does not come back up with higher pump speed, you then need to start the search and destroy mission... The particles will be hiding somewhere.









@pompss did you get it all sorted? (fixed your loop I mean)?


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YeAz*
> 
> If it does not come back up with higher pump speed, you then need to start the search and destroy mission... The particles will be hiding somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @pompss did you get it all sorted? (fixed your loop I mean)?


not now but thanks
i dont care if the coolant are stick in the res the only think bother me its the tubing
The liquid is flowing very fast so this is not the problem.
I dont wanna put the coolant out right now.
I spent two weeks to remove all the air bubble out of the rad.
Had a hard time to pull it out.
i wanna check first the ph and let you know.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Nail on the head..... listen to the man he does a far far better job than me at explaining things ...
> 
> The d5 vario is what we tested on and we ran it at level 4 to 5 . And yes it can get stuck some ware such as a badly bent tube in a rad.


Mayhem i have a pwm d5 and with expert fan from asus i have rpm max speed at 4180 rpm.
I guess speed 4 should be around 3.500 rpm??right.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> not now but thanks
> i dont care if the coolant are stick in the res the only think bother me its the tubing
> The liquid is flowing very fast so this is not the problem.
> I dont wanna put the coolant out right now.
> I spent two weeks to remove all the air bubble out of the rad.
> Had a hard time to pull it out.
> i wanna check first the ph and let you know.


Two weeks to get air bubbles out sounds a little long..........

How can you tell the liquid is moving 'very fast' and how fast is 'very fast'? Is there some auora still flowing? or do you have a flow meter?

Can you post any pics that may show any symptoms?


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Two weeks to get air bubbles out sounds a little long..........
> 
> How can you tell the liquid is moving 'very fast' and how fast is 'very fast'? Is there some auora still flowing? or do you have a flow meter?
> 
> Can you post any pics that may show any symptoms?


aurora is still flowing with the effect even if the silver part are sticking in the tubing,
what i see its that the liquid is flowing faster enough for me.
Now its close two month and still have the aurora effect but less then before because i added more then 500 ml pure water to fill up the res.I have do make ph test and lets see

trust me i dont why its takes me so long but seems that the air bubble was stuck in the damn tubing of the rad.
Had to wait two weeks and after the bubble was gone.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> aurora is still flowing with the effect even if the silver part are sticking in the tubing,
> what i see its that the liquid is flowing faster enough for me.
> Now its close two month and still have the aurora effect but less then before because i added more then 500 ml pure water to fill up the res.I have do make ph test and lets see
> 
> trust me i dont why its takes me so long but seems that the air bubble was stuck in the damn tubing of the rad.
> Had to wait two weeks and after the bubble was gone.


Yeah, adding the extra water will definitely cause a decreased effect.....especially that much extra water.....


----------



## fakeblood

Guys, just wanting to confirm if EK Clear premix is OK to mix with Mayhems dye?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Guys, just wanting to confirm if EK Clear premix is OK to mix with Mayhems dye?


Why not distilled w/ mayhems? Or you going w/ EK nickel blocks and hence why you using their liquid?


----------



## fakeblood

Haven't had much luck with distilled + mayhems. And yes I have an ek full nickel cpu block. Plus got three bottles of ek for real cheap


----------



## Mayhem

@fakeblood Yes it fine EK and our dye work fine







.

@ I do not have access to that sort of pump so cannot say any thing about it unless ive looked, played and tested it my self sorry. I cannot comment on things i do not know about.


----------



## MulletHunter

Just wanted to fill you guys in and let you know that cranking the pump up to100% brought my aurora back to life in full effect. Thanks for the responses.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MulletHunter*
> 
> Just wanted to fill you guys in and let you know that cranking the pump up to100% brought my aurora back to life in full effect. Thanks for the responses.


Awesome!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I just bought my wife a Ducky Shine 2 Limited Edition keyboard, and she loves it. When I first build up her new custom water cooled rig ( [Build Log] The Switched Switch (A Reverse ATX Switch 810) ), I did it with a Red, Black, and White theme. Now she loves the idea of pink so much, I'm thinking about switching out the red Mayhem dye and trying to match the pink. This is the color I'm trying to get:





So my question is, what is the bet way to go about this? Looking at the Mayhem page, I'm just not sure that the Mayhem dye will do the trick. I've used the Orange Pastel in my rig and it works great, but I have no idea what pastel color/dyes I would need to try to pull this off, so here I am looking for suggestions from anyone who has tried to get a nice pink color that hopefully can match this.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I just bought my wife a Ducky Shine 2 Limited Edition keyboard, and she loves it. When I first build up her new custom water cooled rig ( [Build Log] The Switched Switch (A Reverse ATX Switch 810) ), I did it with a Red, Black, and White theme. Now she loves the idea of pink so much, I'm thinking about switching out the red Mayhem dye and trying to match the pink. This is the color I'm trying to get:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my question is, what is the bet way to go about this? Looking at the Mayhem page, I'm just not sure that the Mayhem dye will do the trick. I've used the Orange Pastel in my rig and it works great, but I have no idea what pastel color/dyes I would need to try to pull this off, so here I am looking for suggestions from anyone who has tried to get a nice pink color that hopefully can match this.


Probably Pastel Ice White with a few drops of red dye


----------



## Mayhem

Two way deep red + White pastel or Pastel pink, How ever pastel Pink WILL stain your system but it does look nice ...


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MulletHunter*
> 
> Just wanted to fill you guys in and let you know that cranking the pump up to100% brought my aurora back to life in full effect. Thanks for the responses.


you welcome.
I have a request for you.
After one week or two of use can you check if the aurora silver parts are sticking in the tubing??

I have this problem so i need to know if the with primo chill tube the problem doesnt appear.

thanks and keep me update please


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Two way deep red + White pastel or Pastel pink, How ever pastel Pink WILL stain your system but it does look nice ...


Mayhem sorry i bother you again
I had to make ph test but before i would like to ask if high Ph can cause the coolant to stick around the tubing.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Two way deep red + White pastel or Pastel pink, How ever pastel Pink WILL stain your system but it does look nice ...


I'm not sure what you mean by "Two way deep red". I'm assuming you mean the "Deep Red 15ml" dye?

Do you think that going with the White Pastel and adding 1 drop at a time of the dye is the way to go? I mean it's totally subjective, but do you think that it is possible to achieve that shade of pink with just the white and red dye?

When you say the Pastel Perfect Pink will stain, will it stain the same shade of pink or shift to another shade? If I go with the White Pastel + Deep Red dye, will it stain less?

If I go the White Pastel + Red Dye route, do I have to worry about separation of the two fuilds? This machine will be on for about 5-6 hours a day and while I want it to look good (after all, it's for my wife), it is going to not be a "show piece" (hence why I'm not going with Aurora).


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean by "Two way deep red". I'm assuming you mean the "Deep Red 15ml" dye?
> 
> Do you think that going with the White Pastel and adding 1 drop at a time of the dye is the way to go? I mean it's totally subjective, but do you think that it is possible to achieve that shade of pink with just the white and red dye?
> 
> When you say the Pastel Perfect Pink will stain, will it stain the same shade of pink or shift to another shade? If I go with the White Pastel + Deep Red dye, will it stain less?
> 
> If I go the White Pastel + Red Dye route, do I have to worry about separation of the two fuilds? This machine will be on for about 5-6 hours a day and while I want it to look good (after all, it's for my wife), it is going to not be a "show piece" (hence why I'm not going with Aurora).


I would make the White Pastel in some container and then add the deep red dye a couple drops at a time until it is close and then go 1 drop to get exact shade.

You shouldn't have to worry about any separation of colors


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I just bought my wife a Ducky Shine 2 Limited Edition keyboard, and she loves it. When I first build up her new custom water cooled rig ( [Build Log] The Switched Switch (A Reverse ATX Switch 810) ), I did it with a Red, Black, and White theme. Now she loves the idea of pink so much, I'm thinking about switching out the red Mayhem dye and trying to match the pink. This is the color I'm trying to get:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my question is, what is the bet way to go about this? Looking at the Mayhem page, I'm just not sure that the Mayhem dye will do the trick. I've used the Orange Pastel in my rig and it works great, but I have no idea what pastel color/dyes I would need to try to pull this off, so here I am looking for suggestions from anyone who has tried to get a nice pink color that hopefully can match this.


Nice keyboard, I'm really happy with mine. It's black, but hey, I'm a guy!








You could also just try using the Pastel White, see what you think, if you want to avoid the dye. The white looks great on it's own.


----------



## Mayhem

@cyphon fancy a job haha. yopu doing well @ 47 Knucklehead cyphon is correct.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @cyphon fancy a job
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> haha. yopu doing well @ 47 Knucklehead cyphon is correct.


Awesome effect. I guess the reservoir has to be placed horizontal, do you plan to do something else than Aurora for vertical reservoir setup ?

-- On Topic, I've been using Mayhems X1 Clear in my last build :


----------



## Mayhem

we have al lot of ideas who ever turning them into reality is another matter lol.


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> we have al lot of ideas who ever turning them into reality is another matter lol.


Haha true, right now I'm waiting for the Aurora 24/7 coolant








Keep up the great work, really amazing coolant.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> Haha true, right now I'm waiting for the Aurora 24/7 coolant


I would LOVE to see that. I love the look of that stuff, but I need a coolant that I can run 24/7 for months on end.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @cyphon fancy a job haha. yopu doing well @ 47 Knucklehead cyphon is correct.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


@Mayhem, lol, I'm just trying to help the community for products I believe in. Sort of my thing...It is why I work for the biggest open source company (Red Hat) in the world. If you need any help with questions, the new web site, testing new products, etc, I'm happy to help


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> @Mayhem, lol, I'm just trying to help the community for products I believe in. Sort of my thing...It is why I work for the biggest open source company (Red Hat) in the world. If you need any help with questions, the new web site, testing new products, etc, I'm happy to help


That's why I love OCN. It's full of people who love helping.

I've used Mayhem dye for awhile now, but only used the Pastel (Gigabyte Orange) once and for that application the color was perfect to match my Gigabyte motherboard, so that is why I asked about the best way to do this latest color matching.

I ordered 2L of Ice White and 15ml of Deep Red (I already have some, but could use more) and a new supply of Durelene (may as well start fresh). Hopefully it'll arrive next week and I'll have the system under water (Pink that is) by next weekend.

Thanks for everyone's help.


----------



## Mayhem

@cyphon PM me you full name, address and telephone number and ill send a little pressie next week once bank hols are over as a thank you for helping out and as a way of showing our respect to users like your self.

Mick


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @cyphon PM me you full name, address and telephone number and ill send a little pressie next week once bank hols are over as a thank you for helping out and as a way of showing our respect to users like your self.
> 
> Mick


Thanks Mick, PM coming soon


----------



## kcuestag

I got my Mayhems Ice White Pastel!





Will re-do the loop next week as I got 19/13mm tubing by mistake even though I had ordered 16/11 for my new fittings, but I still used it because I wanted to see the Pastel White in Action, it's great.


----------



## wermad

Led spoils it in the cpu. Show it off, maybe get an led strip array to shine on the loop?


----------



## mm67

I also got some Ice White today


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Led spoils it in the cpu. Show it off, maybe get an led strip array to shine on the loop?


That's only at night though, during day time it looks sexy as hell and you can see the pastel white shine like mad!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> I got my Mayhems Ice White Pastel!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will re-do the loop next week as I got 19/13mm tubing by mistake even though I had ordered 16/11 for my new fittings, but I still used it because I wanted to see the Pastel White in Action, it's great.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> I also got some Ice White today
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Enjoy!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> That's only at night though, during day time it looks sexy as hell and you can see the pastel white shine like mad!


Hell yeah! I demand more pics


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Golly the pastel white is getting more and more popular. Maybe it's a sign for you to release some more products that are pastel white coloured..........?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Hell yeah! I demand more pics


Pictures during day time:


----------



## wermad

^^^Looks the same, led really gives it a hint of blue. Think it would look better w/out it, but hey, your rig









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> I also got some Ice White today


Wow, great job


----------



## wermad

More pics


----------



## cyphon

Looking good you guys!


----------



## cyphon

Going dual loop on my new build. One loop will be white (pastel) and the other will be orange.

You guys think having the Orange Pastel as well would look better or have x1 dyed orange would look better? Guess the question is, go uniform or go contesting styles.

I'm using a dual bay res so both res will be side by side in the front of the case. The orange will be on the cpu and ram (mobo as well but it isn't acrylic top) blocks, which will be acrylic ek csq tops


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Going dual loop on my new build. One loop will be white (pastel) and the other will be orange.
> 
> You guys think having the Orange Pastel as well would look better or have x1 dyed orange would look better? Guess the question is, go uniform or go contesting styles.


One loop in pastel and one not pastel does not look good in my opinion. Singularity just did a build with pastel white in one loop and one loop with regular dyed blue and it was the first Sigularity build that I didn't like, only for that reason - it just looks... off. IMO.

Definitely do both loops pastel or both loops dye.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## kcuestag

Agreed, I recently saw SIngularity's last build and didn't like the mix with pastel on loop 1 and dye on loop 2, as James says, do both pastel or both dye, I'd say pastel!









I love my pastel white.


----------



## cyphon

That was what I was already thinking (already have purchased pastel in both as well) so both pastel it is


----------



## steelkevin

Alright, finally decided to give a **** so here I am with pictures, explanations and questions. Mostly pictures and questions though







.

I went from an NZXT Phantom case to a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 about a month ago so had to drain my loop and replace most of the tubing.

Here's a picture of all the tubing I had left and just took out of the wardrobe:

Some was removed when I move to the Midi R2, some was used for less than half a day (the clearest ones) and one of the longer tubes was never used at all.

I opened one of the sorter runs with a kinife. I then cleaned it using 90° alcohol (with my finger and then a cutton bud):




And this one I just poored 90% alcohol, squeezed and rubbed between my fingers:


Is that the feared plasticizer everybody's trying to avoid ?


----------



## cyphon

Yes that is. What tubing you using?


----------



## steelkevin

8/11mm ClearFlex60.

I took it because it was cheap xD.


----------



## cyphon

Not too sure on that specific tubing and I've seen mixed information on it on the googles...what coolant/dye did you have?

Please check your blocks for buildup as well


----------



## steelkevin

you'll find all my system's information in my signature







.

there was buildup in the CPU when I switched to the Midi R2 and I removed it.


----------



## Sunreeper

Use primochill advanced lrt it's what mayhem recommends and is known to not cause plasticizing issues like most tubing does after a short while.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Use primochill advanced lrt it's what mayhem recommends and is known to not cause plasticizing issues like most tubing does after a short while.


trouble is, in france we barely get any choice when it comes to tubing. Especially when looking at the least common sizes







.
But, I'm waiting on speicaltech to restock a white V2 XSPC 1/4" thermometer so I'll see what they've got.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> trouble is, in france we barely get any choice when it comes to tubing. Especially when looking at the least common sizes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> But, I'm waiting on speicaltech to restock a white V2 XSPC 1/4" thermometer so I'll see what they've got.


You can always buy it from Germany, for example Caseking.de and Aquatuning.de, they ship to all Europe, I bought lots of stuff there while living in Germany and now I still buy a lot of stuff from them here in Spain.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> You can always buy it from Germany, for example Caseking.de and Aquatuning.de, they ship to all Europe, I bought lots of stuff there while living in Germany and now I still buy a lot of stuff from them here in Spain.


I already checked both since they both have .fr websites and are used by French watercoolers.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I already checked both since they both have .fr websites and are used by French watercoolers.


Looks like Aquatuning still won't sell the Advanced LRT, which is a real shame as I think that's the only tubing worth it right now in the market, I would never buy different tubing today.

Get them from Caseking: http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Advanced+LRT

Not sure how much they charge on shipping to France, to Spain it is 17,90€.


----------



## steelkevin

Actually, nobody has it in stock because it simply doesn't exist xD.

Nevermind, I'll just keep this and whenever I've got too much money to spend I'll either go with 10/13mm fittings or just go with hard acrylic (it would actually be cheaper).


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Actually, nobody has it in stock because it simply doesn't exist xD.
> 
> Nevermind, I'll just keep this and whenever I've got too much money to spend I'll either go with 10/13mm fittings or just go with hard acrylic (it would actually be cheaper).


What do you mean? I see them on stock at Caseking with the link I just gave you... Do not buy any other tubing as it will cloud within days or weeks and get full of plasticizer issues...


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> What do you mean? I see them on stock at Caseking with the link I just gave you... Do not buy any other tubing as it will cloud within days or weeks and get full of plasticizer issues...


Nope. Or somehow when I click that link it changes and sends me to a similar page but without the 8/11mm version







.

Seriously though, I checked Primochill's website and they only offer 4 different sizes, the smallest being 10-13mm.
EDIT: so, as I was saying, I won't buy anything else, I'll keep the ClearFlex60 until I have the money to either move up to 10-13mm fittings or to go with hard acrylic.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Nope. Or somehow when I click that link it changes and sends me to a similar page but without the 8/11mm version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Seriously though, I checked Primochill's website and they only offer 4 different sizes, the smallest being 10-13mm.
> EDIT: so, as I was saying, I won't buy anything else, I'll keep the ClearFlex60 until I have the money to either move up to 10-13mm fittings or to go with hard acrylic.


That's because 11/8mm is not common at all these days...









In fact it's the first time I hear about it lol.


----------



## soul801

I'm running Pastel red can I still use silver in my res, or will it hurt my system?


----------



## kimoswabi

If you're using mayhems pastel red, the coolant includes everything you need for your system so you don't need silver or anything else.


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> If you're using mayhems pastel red, the coolant includes everything you need for your system so you don't need silver or anything else.


It's already in lol, should I take it out? Also I used distilled water is this also going to be an issue?


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> It's already in lol, should I take it out? Also I used distilled water is this also going to be an issue?


Silver is used as a biocide but the pastel already has this mixed in. To answer, I don't think it would hurt to leave in, but personally I haven't ran Mayhems with silver so I can't be certain.

Did you buy the concentrate pastel or the premix? Distilled is fine, for the concentrate. If you bought the premix it doesn't need any additional water or additives.


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*
> 
> Silver is used as a biocide but the pastel already has this mixed in. To answer, I don't think it would hurt to leave in. Did you buy the concentrate pastel or the premix? Distilled is fine, for the concentrate. If you bought the premix it doesn't need any additional water or additives.


I got the concentrate. I'm just going to leave it in, but going to test the PH with my pool kit. Pic of my system.


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*
> 
> Silver is used as a biocide but the pastel already has this mixed in. To answer, I don't think it would hurt to leave in, but personally I haven't ran Mayhems with silver so I can't be certain.
> 
> Did you buy the concentrate pastel or the premix? Distilled is fine, for the concentrate. If you bought the premix it doesn't need any additional water or additives.


Thank you for answering my questions.


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> Thank you for answering my questions.


No problem, nice rig!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> I got the concentrate. I'm just going to leave it in, but going to test the PH with my pool kit. Pic of my system.


Please remove this pr0n asap









Love looking at this pic XD


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> thats not red enough PM (name, address, telephone number) and ill send over some free dye , not happy with that colour it should be more vibrant.


That's how mine looks as well.


----------



## soul801

But I like it!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Alright, finally decided to give a **** so here I am with pictures, explanations and questions. Mostly pictures and questions though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I went from an NZXT Phantom case to a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 about a month ago so had to drain my loop and replace most of the tubing.
> 
> Here's a picture of all the tubing I had left and just took out of the wardrobe:
> 
> Some was removed when I move to the Midi R2, some was used for less than half a day (the clearest ones) and one of the longer tubes was never used at all.
> 
> I opened one of the sorter runs with a kinife. I then cleaned it using 90° alcohol (with my finger and then a cutton bud):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this one I just poored 90% alcohol, squeezed and rubbed between my fingers:
> 
> 
> Is that the feared plasticizer everybody's trying to avoid ?


What coolant were you using? To me that just looks like clouding as a result of evaporation. It happened to my old tubing, and it's just all the additives in the coolant staying on the tubing after the liquid inside has evaporated. Almost every type of tubing I've seen that had plasticizer issues ends up with a yellow/brown tint that can't be cleaned off. After you wiped of the scaling on the tubing, it looks crystal clear so I have a hard time believing it's plasticizers.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> What coolant were you using? To me that just looks like clouding as a result of evaporation. It happened to my old tubing, and it's just all the additives in the coolant staying on the tubing after the liquid inside has evaporated. Almost every type of tubing I've seen that had plasticizer issues ends up with a yellow/brown tint that can't be cleaned off. After you wiped of the scaling on the tubing, it looks crystal clear so I have a hard time believing it's plasticizers.


As listed in my signature:
"Mayhems Blue Berry Pastel + full bottle of Mayh... ems blue dye."

It's actually 9 out of 10mL of dye, I'll edit that because now the dyes come in 15mL bottles and it does make quite the difference.

My guess is it's just dyed plastizer but I really have no idea. I used 90% alcohol to clean the tubing I posted which may be why it came off ?


----------



## cyphon

It is definitely plasticizer. This is from my loop with old tube. Look similar?


----------



## steelkevin

similar ? I'd say identical ! If I had carpet at home I'd think you broke in to take that picture







.

+Rep for confirming it is indeed plasticizer







.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> similar ? I'd say identical ! If I had carpet at home I'd think you broke in to take that picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> +Rep for confirming it is indeed plasticizer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Lol. Yeah just swap out the tube and flush all your rads and blocks and you should be good. If you've been planning any upgrades it is a good time







. That is what I did with mine, had to fix the loop so I added a second gpu at the same time


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Lol. Yeah just swap out the tube and flush all your rads and blocks and you should be good. If you've been planning any upgrades it is a good time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . That is what I did with mine, had to fix the loop so I added a second gpu at the same time


I'm just waiting on AMD to finally get a good (~300€) GPU and a waterblock. So I'll probably clean everything out when I do that


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I'm just waiting on AMD to finally get a good (~300€) GPU and a waterblock. So I'll probably clean everything out when I do that


Don't like the 7950 or 7970? And there are water blocks available for both


----------



## Ksunami

So I have been reading this thread as often as I can for the past dew days. So far i am only on page 63 so forgive me if this has been asked, but 309 pages is a lot to ready through.

I am wanting to do something a little different. I was wondering if i mixed the UV black with Aurora Supernova if it would give me a black pearl that is UV reactive.

Thanks in advance for the help and thanks to Mayhems. This thread is amazing and you really have helped us all with our bad ass water cooling needs.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ksunami*
> 
> So I have been reading this thread as often as I can for the past dew days. So far i am only on page 63 so forgive me if this has been asked, but 309 pages is a lot to ready through.
> 
> I am wanting to do something a little different. I was wondering if i mixed the UV black with Aurora Supernova if it would give me a black pearl that is UV reactive.
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help and thanks to Mayhems. This thread is amazing and you really have helped us all with our bad ass water cooling needs.


No worries. It has been asked before, but I totally understand not wanting to sort through hundreds of pages









I supposed you 'could' add UV dye to the Aurora, but I personally wouldn't

Aurora is designed to have particles that will reflect light, which gives it its effect
UV fluids are designed to absorb light, which reacts and causes it to glow

To take one of these and make it the other seems counter productive to me, as they are made to work in opposite fashions


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Don't like the 7950 or 7970? And there are water blocks available for both


Oh, it's not that I don't like them and they're quite cheap at the moment too (300€ for 7970) but if I'm going to invest money into a GPU I wouldn't stand being a Gen behind even if it's plenty enough and all.
That and I don't like the blocks EK has to offer for either of those cards







.

EDIT: and BF4 for free would obviously help


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Oh, it's not that I don't like them and they're quite cheap at the moment too (300€ for 7970) but if I'm going to invest money into a GPU I wouldn't stand being a Gen behind even if it's plenty enough and all.
> That and I don't like the blocks EK has to offer for either of those cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT: and BF4 for free would obviously help


I love the new EK Blocks







the clean Acrylic is sick!

I am building an AMD rig right now and just put on the blocks. Gonna look so sexy with Pastel going thru em


----------



## steelkevin

Those are actually the best looking ones. They don't look bad but it's just I'd rather have a full cover block and that metal plate just isn't for me


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Those are actually the best looking ones. They don't look bad but it's just I'd rather have a full cover block and that metal plate just isn't for me


I would have preferred the top to cover the whole board, even though that bit has no need for any cooling, so I agree there. However, it probably saved me $30-40 by them not putting it in, so not complaining either, lol


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I love the new EK Blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the clean Acrylic is sick!
> 
> I am building an AMD rig right now and just put on the blocks. Gonna look so sexy with Pastel going thru em
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's going to look good.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## steelkevin

Now that's what I'm talking about ! Beautiful !

@cyphon which pastel are you going to fill those cards with







?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Now that's what I'm talking about ! Beautiful !
> 
> @cyphon which pastel are you going to fill those cards with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


The GPU loop will be pastel white.
I have CPU, MB, and RAM that will be on pastel orange


----------



## kcuestag

@Mayhem Do you think re-using 3-4 days old Mayhems Ice White Pastel is okay?

I have to drain my loop tomorrow to change my fittings and I had planned to use the same coolant (I still have some left in a bottle in case I need a bit more, it's concentrate + distilled water mixed) so that I don't have to buy it again.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> @Mayhem Do you think re-using 3-4 days old Mayhems Ice White Pastel is okay?
> 
> I have to drain my loop tomorrow to change my fittings and I had planned to use the same coolant (I still have some left in a bottle in case I need a bit more, it's concentrate + distilled water mixed) so that I don't have to buy it again.


this is a good question...curious to see what Mayhem says

but, do you have a sealed container you can put it in? I'd imagine if you had it sealed tight then it'd be fine


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> this is a good question...curious to see what Mayhem says
> 
> but, do you have a sealed container you can put it in? I'd imagine if you had it sealed tight then it'd be fine


I'd place it on a empty bottle of distilled water.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh you can reuse. What we suggest for cleaning is use a coffee filter and filter the liquid though that into a 1 Ltr clean container. Then you ready to reuse it again. Dont forget it has a very long life span.

Unlike other fluids on the block Mayhems Pastel is a nano fluid and are made up of particles that block UV light and stop bacteria and algae growing so you reuse for a long period of time







. If you think about it its £15.00 ( £5 a year) a bottle and it can last 3 years. The cheapest other liquid is £6.00 and lasts 9 months. So not only does it look good its out lasts any other fluid on the market.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh you can reuse. What we suggest for cleaning is use a coffee filter and filter the liquid though that into a 1 Ltr clean container. Then you ready to reuse it again. Dont forget it has a very long life span.
> 
> Unlike other fluids on the block Mayhems Pastel is a nano fluid and are made up of particles that block UV light and stop bacteria and algae growing so you reuse for a long period of time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If you think about it its £15.00 ( £5 a year) a bottle and it can last 3 years. The cheapest other liquid is £6.00 and lasts 9 months. So not only does it look good its out lasts any other fluid on the market.


Thanks for the reply *Mayhem*! I'll see if I can get a hold of a coffee filter before re-using it.


----------



## barracks510

But when you run it through a filter, does it lose its color intensity?


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barracks510*
> 
> But when you run it through a filter, does it lose its color intensity?


I would say no since you're running it through the filter to get rid of all the contaminants in the loop. The dye which has bonded with the nano particles will go through just fine. This however is just my guess though.


----------



## barracks510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> 3) Here's a comparison of a new IceDragon coolant (Left) vs. the drained coolant (Right). Notice how the used coolant is slightly darker in color?


So this doesn't apply to pastels?

EDIT: Nevermind, his loop had rad flux in it.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barracks510*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> 3) Here's a comparison of a new IceDragon coolant (Left) vs. the drained coolant (Right). Notice how the used coolant is slightly darker in color?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this doesn't apply to pastels?
Click to expand...

Pastel is basically the exact same thing as icedragon except it has dyes as well. Mahyem and icedragon worked together to create the nano particles that are in their fluids. If I remember correctly the problems that Kimoswabi had with his coolant and tubing was that he still had stuff in his radiator that was contaminating the loop.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh you can reuse. What we suggest for cleaning is use a coffee filter and filter the liquid though that into a 1 Ltr clean container. Then you ready to reuse it again. Dont forget it has a very long life span.
> 
> Unlike other fluids on the block Mayhems Pastel is a nano fluid and are made up of particles that block UV light and stop bacteria and algae growing so you reuse for a long period of time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If you think about it its £15.00 ( £5 a year) a bottle and it can last 3 years. The cheapest other liquid is £6.00 and lasts 9 months. So not only does it look good its out lasts any other fluid on the market.


I've re-used it three times over the past year (I think it's been a year) and have no issues. I never filtered it though but now that I know for sure I have plasticizer issues I will take a coffee filter from work and filter it next time







.
+Rep
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barracks510*
> 
> But when you run it through a filter, does it lose its color intensity?


Good question. I assume that with pastel alone it shouldn't be a problem but what about pastel + 9mL of dye ? Wouldn't the dye stick to the filter ?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I've re-used it three times over the past year (I think it's been a year) and have no issues. I never filtered it though but now that I know for sure I have plasticizer issues I will take a coffee filter from work and filter it next time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> +Rep
> *Good question. I assume that with pastel alone it shouldn't be a problem but what about pastel + 9mL of dye ? Wouldn't the dye stick to the filter* ?


I would imagine a nanofluid would be more likely to be stuck in the filter than a liquid dye. Then again Mike did JUST say it works if you run it through a filter, so there's that... We'll wait and see for Mikes reply I guess.


----------



## mm67

Just put my pastel white through a coffee filter, can't see any difference in colour.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barracks510*
> 
> But when you run it through a filter, does it lose its color intensity?


I have a small amount of blue pastel left that I will be getting rid of (not enough to help a loop in need). I will do a quick test today and post pics


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barracks510*
> 
> But when you run it through a filter, does it lose its color intensity?


No it will not. The dye is in the water and the nano particulars are never actually dyed but masked by the color the liquid. So when you put it though the coffee filter both parts will pass though and any large crap will be left behind. If you really would like to see how much rubbish is left in your loop after the liquid has been in you system put it though a 1 micron water filer and what ever is left in the filter is rubbish and you'll end up with pure pastel when you finished.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I'm about to rip down my loop and change colors (from Red Dye to White Pastel + Red Dye). I already planned to replace all the tubing in the system (tubing is cheap, why not?), but without ripping out every single part and putting about 30 gallons of hot tap water through a radiator then flushing it with a gallon of distilled, what would be the best way to flush the system while it's still in the case?

I was thinking just popping one tube that was at the end of the loop that went back into the reservoir and put that end into a drain, and just keep the loop on while I put the other end of the open loop at the reservoir filed with hot tap water for like 10 minutes, then stop the tap water and run a gallon of distilled in it and back out.

Thoughts?


----------



## cyphon

Mayhem already answered it but for those where seeing is believing, here you go:



Sorry for low quality cell phone pic


----------



## Adrian-E

Is there any difference in color between Mayhem Pastel Red and Mayhem Pastel Grape Red or is the grape red an old discontinued version of the Pastel Red.
I'm asking this because I found a site that sells both.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrian-E*
> 
> Is there any difference in color between Mayhem Pastel Red and Mayhem Pastel Grape Red or is the grape red an old discontinued version of the Pastel Red.
> I'm asking this because I found a site that sells both.


It is a different color, the grape red is a purplish color, think red wine, but a little brighter. Pastel red is a bright red, kinda pinkish.

For a real vibrant true red color, I'd get the pastel white and add deep red dye personally.


----------



## Adrian-E

I'm afraid the Pastel white and red dye will end up pink regardless of how much dye I add in it, I remember reading here that it takes a lot of dye to change the color of the pastel coolants , I'm not 100% sure and I didn't actually try this.

But anyway I was asking this because I am planning a dual loop. I already have Pastel Red in my system and I love it but if I was going to make a dual loop it will be a waste to fill it up only with Red.


----------



## lowfiwhiteguy

I'm doing some research on coolant alternatives. The leading solutions which I am considering (Koolance's proprietary fluid, DazMode protector, Feser One base, etc) all use ethylene glycol. I'm yet to find a testimonial that says this compound damages or gunks up a loop, and it's a two-in-one (minus the Feser) anti-microbial anti-corrosive. Also, it's clear. Explain to me how Mayhems X-1 is a better choice, given its shorter lifespan and lack of ethylene glycol? If you're convincing I may even buy some.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrian-E*
> 
> I'm afraid the Pastel white and red dye will end up pink regardless of how much dye I add in it, I remember reading here that it takes a lot of dye to change the color of the pastel coolants , I'm not 100% sure and I didn't actually try this.
> 
> But anyway I was asking this because I am planning a dual loop. I already have Pastel Red in my system and I love it but if I was going to make a dual loop it will be a waste to fill it up only with Red.


Yes it will take a lot of dye to get it where you would.

dual loop, do 1 red and 1 white? 1 red 1 purp? 1 red 1 orange? 1 red 1 blue?


----------



## Mayhem

I dont need to convince any one. XT1 is ethylene glycol How ever its not going to kill you like the other 3 as it is blended with patented additive that prevents Ethylene Glycol from being metabolised (during digestion) into toxic by-products. Tests carried out on Mayhems X1-1 Coolant confirmed the toxicity was "so low that it was impossible to determine an LD50 value.

So if you wish to put poisons in your system then please do. we don't like to kill our customers and there pets.

X1 is based on Vegetable extract and again wont kill you







. So the decision is yours.


----------



## lowfiwhiteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I dont need to convince any one. XT1 is ethylene glycol How ever its not going to kill you like the other 3 as it is blended with patented additive that prevents Ethylene Glycol from being metabolised (during digestion) into toxic by-products. Tests carried out on Mayhems X1-1 Coolant confirmed the toxicity was "so low that it was impossible to determine an LD50 value.
> 
> So if you wish to put poisons in your system then please do. we don't like to kill our customers and there pets.
> 
> X1 is based on Vegetable extract and again wont kill you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So the decision is yours.


Interesting, I might consider it, then.


----------



## Adrian-E

Thanks cyphon,

Red with Purple sounds good, I was also wandering if I can mix different pastel colors together instead of dyes.


----------



## kimoswabi

Un
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrian-E*
> 
> Thanks cyphon,
> 
> Red with Purple sounds good, I was also wandering if I can mix different pastel colors together instead of dyes.


Unless you have a lot of extra pastel coolant sitting around, it would be cheaper to buy the dye and mix it to the color you want. A liter of pastel costs more than 2X the cost of one dye.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrian-E*
> 
> Thanks cyphon,
> 
> Red with Purple sounds good, I was also wandering if I can mix different pastel colors together instead of dyes.


It "shouldn't" be an issue as long as you keep the 3:1 DI Water to concentrate ration the same, however, you will probably be much happier getting the exact color pastel, or adding dyes to the pastel to get your color (you have much more control this way as well)

Blueberry pastel with deep red dye to get purple test I did earlier







Honestly I think having some blue dye or the regular dye would have made it better (deep red made it too dark too fast). Or starting with white or pink or something on the red side


----------



## kcuestag

Here it is, I installed my new tubing and fittings and re-used the White pastel.













Looks much better now, I've also added two more AP-15's to the bottom MONSTA rad. I really like this Mayhems Pastel white coolant, it's amazing.


----------



## cyphon

Looks good kcuestag

I like the white in there


----------



## kimoswabi

Gotta admit, the lighted CPU block is really growing on me. What block is that again?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Gotta admit, the lighted CPU block is really growing on me. What block is that again?


It's an EK Supreme HF


----------



## Nilsom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here it is, I installed my new tubing and fittings and re-used the White pastel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks much better now, I've also added two more AP-15's to the bottom MONSTA rad. I really like this Mayhems Pastel white coolant, it's amazing.


very good bro
clean and beautiful


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfiwhiteguy*
> 
> I'm doing some research on coolant alternatives. The leading solutions which I am considering (Koolance's proprietary fluid, DazMode protector, Feser One base, etc) all use ethylene glycol. *I'm yet to find a testimonial that says this compound damages or gunks up a loop, and it's a two-in-one* (minus the Feser) anti-microbial anti-corrosive. Also, it's clear. Explain to me how Mayhems X-1 is a better choice, given its shorter lifespan and lack of ethylene glycol? If you're convincing I may even buy some.


Glycol additives only gunk if you add a copper sulphate biocide to it. The reason "Gunking" is such a huge issue for many people is because they don't realize many companies ultrapures have 2% glycol mixed in there. They buy an ultrapure thinking it's just distilled water, throw in a biocide, and BAM their block is cluster F**ked, pardon my french. When people buy the glycol premixes, they obviously don't don't need biocides as the premixes/concentrates function as one.

Glycol additives are also NOT performance coolants. They'll perform worse than pure distilled, and no better than any other concentrate.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Hey Mayhems. I'm going to be trying the Aurora out, but my Waterblock is going to be the somewhat new FrozenQ Cold Fusion block, and as such isn't on the list of confirmed parts.

I just wanted to be sure all the parts I'm using are OK to use so if my Aurora gets messed up I can know for sure it's the waterblock.

My loop order is:

FrozenQ Warp Cylindrical Reservoir, vertically mounted with the intake on the top, and outtake on the bottom.

Then a Laing DDC PWM (Note: I will have both reservoir outtakes at the bottom hooked into the pump via a y splitter directly the the pump intake to avoid a deadspot in the res.)

Then a Phobya Xtreme Quad 480 Radiator.

Then my FrozenQ CPU waterblock, which as previously stated will be the anomaly in this setup.

So are all of those, excluding the waterblock, okay with Aurora or more specifically Aurora Supernova?


----------



## Mayhem

I would not recommend you use Aurora on that set up. The 480 rad is massive and have restrictive flow on it and will be an issue. The pump is no were near enough when using that rad. For testing we used a 240 rad, tube res and ddc 10w (on full) or D5 on 4/5 and CPU or GPU block only.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I would not recommend you use Aurora on that set up. T*he 480 rad is massive and have restrictive flow* on it and will be an issue. The pump is no were near enough when using that rad. For testing we used a 240 rad, tube res and ddc 10w (on full) or D5 on 4/5 and CPU or GPU block only.


Oh? It only has a 2 pass system and since it's double the height I would imagine it would be less restrictive than most radiators. I'll take your word for it. Guess I'll go distilled and clear/UV blue dye again. Would the PMP500 (3-4gpm) be enough to keep the particles in suspension?


----------



## Mayhem

You need to consider the way the rads are made in side the tubes are folded over this creates gaps that the aurora can get stuck in. Now being that its a 480mm rad first you have to get the aurora across the whole of the rad and then because it a thick rad you have extra folded edges inside create more places for the liquid to get caught up in. This is why even out quad pass rads fail.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You need to consider the way the rads are made in side the tubes are folded over this creates gaps that the aurora can get stuck in. Now being that its a 480mm rad first you have to get the aurora across the whole of the rad and then because it a thick rad you have extra folded edges inside create more places for the liquid to get caught up in. This is why even out quad pass rads fail.


Ah, I see, so it's tubes protruding into the chambers that creates problems then, like in the pic?


I guess I assumed since the Phobya Extreme 480 uses the same chambers as the Phobya G-Changer it would work all the same. :/

Time to start shopping for a different coolant idea then.


----------



## stickg1

My pH level looks like its at 4. Do I need to add more Mayhems Biocide to get to the 6-8 range or does 4 mean there's too much in there to begin with?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> My pH level looks like its at 4. Do I need to add more Mayhems Biocide to get to the 6-8 range or does 4 mean there's too much in there to begin with?


Copper sulphate will increase the acidity, meaning it will lower your Ph. 4 is pretty low....

You want a Ph between 6.5 and 8....


----------



## stickg1

So just for clarification, I need to drain and flush, then fresh distilled water?


----------



## fakeblood

Some purple Mayhems


----------



## cyphon

@Fakeblood, looks awesome

Maybe it is the photo, but I'd maybe make the purple a touch darker so it shows up in the tubes a little better


----------



## fakeblood

I have added a bit more after taking those photos. The first one was only 2 drops, have about 5 now


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> I have added a bit more after taking those photos. The first one was only 2 drops, have about 5 now


ah, it's prly perfect then


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So just for clarification, I need to drain and flush, then fresh distilled water?


That's most likely the case, but let's see if anyone has any clever ideas.


----------



## steelkevin

Argh, loving the purple pastel and dye x).
It's a bit weird that I'm drawn to purple so often but whatever ^^.
It's those sort of colors that'll make you go dual loops when you really had no intention to







.

If I do another build or somehow the computer I'm going to build for a friend end ups under water I won't be able to resist the pastel purple


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Copper sulphate will increase the acidity, meaning it will lower your Ph. 4 is pretty low....
> 
> You want a Ph between 6.5 and 8....


What would you add to raise the pH without clogging a loop? For things that don't have tiny holes, I'd use baking soda, which has a pH of 9. I'm just not sure if that would be wise as it might separate. I just don't know how well liquid products like "API pH up" would work. You can get a bottle of that for like $7 at Petsmart.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> What would you add to raise the pH without clogging a loop? For things that don't have tiny holes, I'd use baking soda, which has a pH of 9. I'm just not sure if that would be wise as it might separate. I just don't know how well liquid products like "API pH up" would work. You can get a bottle of that for like $7 at Petsmart.


Hmmmmmmm..........not sure about a lot of this.........I'd want Mayhem's approval before putting anything in my loop.

Wouldn't adding more DI Water bring the pH closer to neutral as well?


----------



## JohnnyEars

I'd suggest a huge hot water flush, and check the ph of the di water before refilling and after running for 12 hours - then decide on how much biocide to add + then final ph check.


----------



## stickg1

First I'm awaiting a response from Primochill. My tubing after two days use is already fogged. But the water in the res is crystal clear. Something is seriously wrong. I did this loop the same as my last few attempts. This is the first time I've had these problems.


----------



## kimoswabi

First time using Mayhem's X1 Blood Red concentrate mixed with distilled water. The initial color wasn't as dark/ blood red as in the pictures and it wasn't quite what I was expecting. Under the bright LED lighting, the coolant in the tubes looked almost orange. I wish I had taken pictures of it but I was able to correct it with a single drop of Mayhems Dark Blue dye into my 500mL bottle.
Judge for yourself.


The high coolant temp was because I had just run some back to back video stress testing.


Bubbles in the res should go away in a few hours.


Really need to sleeve those rainbow cables...






Definitely a *BIG* thumbs up for the Mayhems X1 Blood Red coolant (with a little help from a blue dye).
Can't wait to try out more colors.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Nothing like some blood red flowing through frosted EK blocks


----------



## Shultzy

So I've been using mayhems pastel red in my system and it always turns a dark red and then dark purple. Previously i had mayhems dark red dye and a drop of blue dye to make blood red. I flushed out my loop like 10 times with distilled water 2 different times, but the pastel red always slowly turns darker and eventually purple. How do i flush it out so this doesn't happen again. should i flush with vinegar water?

Edit: sorry i don't have pictures, but i currently don't have internet at my new apartment. I'm unsure how to do it from my phone, but hopefully you get the idea.


----------



## Shultzy

Double post


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shultzy*
> 
> So I've been using mayhems pastel red in my system and it always turns a dark red and then dark purple. Previously i had mayhems dark red dye and a drop of blue dye to make blood red. I flushed out my loop like 10 times with distilled water 2 different times, but the pastel red always slowly turns darker and eventually purple. How do i flush it out so this doesn't happen again. should i flush with vinegar water?
> 
> Edit: sorry i don't have pictures, but i currently don't have internet at my new apartment. I'm unsure how to do it from my phone, but hopefully you get the idea.


I would recommend taking apart your loop and cleaning out each of your components really well especially the fittings. I always see remnants of color in my fittings around the o-rings & the screw-part of the fittings every time I change out fittings. Red stains like a mother trucker regardless of coolant brand.


----------



## Shultzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> I would recommend taking apart your loop and cleaning out each of your components really well especially the fittings. I always see remnants of color in my fittings around the o-rings & the screw-part of the fittings every time I change out fittings. Red stains like a mother trucker regardless of coolant brand.


Although I've only put like 3 drops total of blue in my loop ever, I believe that is what's turning it purple. And yes, I've heard red strains badly, although my tubing has never turned red only white from plasticizer. I think the radiator will probably be the toughest to clean. What do you suggest I clean the fittings and components with?


----------



## Mayhem

@Shultzy Use Bicarb to flush your system out.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Shultzy Use Bicarb to flush your system out.


Could I run baking soda through my system, tubing, components and drain it, then set up a filtered distilled water loop and rinse it out a few times? I think I need a cleansing and thorough flush but I don't want to remove the tubing because it will have to cut off the oversized barbs.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Hmmmmmmm..........not sure about a lot of this.........I'd want Mayhem's approval before putting anything in my loop.
> 
> Wouldn't adding more DI Water bring the pH closer to neutral as well?


Yes, but if you spend a lot of money on pastel dye, that wouldn't be the best solution.

I too would like to hear Mayhem chime in on how to best raise the pH level in a loop ... would dissolved baking soda or fish aquarium pH raiser be a good way that won't impact the pastel coolant and/or separate in the loop and block up the components.


----------



## Shultzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Shultzy Use Bicarb to flush your system out.


Where do i get Bicarb? What exactly is it? and how many times do i need to do it? Thanks in advance


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Bicarb is more commonly known as baking soda.


----------



## Shultzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Bicarb is more commonly known as baking soda.


Ok, so how do i put it in my loop?. Do i mix it with distilled water let it dissolve, then flush and repeat? Also how much should i use and how does this work to help me with my problem (just curious)?


----------



## stickg1

Is it safe to drop a little baking soda in your loop to up the pH level?

I know it's water soluable, but I'm looking for a way to up my pH level without draining.


----------



## Mayhem

We use 1 tea spoon per 1 Ltr for cleaning the loop out. We don't use it to raise a PH level on a working loop. If you loop is acid to start with then it needs cleaning out. Flush with Bicarb then rinse with Di water then fill as per normal.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

With regards to baking soda, the numbers I hear are very small ... 1/2 teaspoon in 8 fluid ounces of water will raise the pH level 1.0 unit.

Since there are 33.81 fluid ounces in a liter and 1 teaspoon is roughly 5ml. That should work out to be 21.13ml of baking soda per liter of distilled water to raise it 1.0 pH. Someone please check my math though.

[Edit]

Nevermind, Mayhem chimed in when I was doing the math and checking my sources.


----------



## stickg1

Okay, I'll experiment this afternoon. I want to get this resolved and everything nice and clean so I can go deep red pastel!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Okay, I'll experiment this afternoon. I want to get this resolved and everything nice and clean so I can go deep red pastel!


Sweet! Can't wait for the pics


----------



## stickg1

I put in the bicarb, a little more than a teaspoon because I use a little more than a liter. Is it safe to let this bicarb/distilled water solution run for a few hours? I gotta go to work.


----------



## Mayhem

Yes its safe. we run it though our systems and some times forget







How ever don't go doing it on purpose it doesn't make the best coolant lol.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes its safe. we run it though our systems and some times forget
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How ever don't go doing it on purpose it doesn't make the best coolant lol.


Good to know. Who does make the best coolant?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Good to know. Who does make the best coolant?


Mayhem does









He was saying the bicarb is not a good coolant


----------



## hamed599

HELLO
Whether PASTEL work with Aquacomputer Filter with stainless steel mesh?
thank you


----------



## Mayhem

It should have no problems as pastel is a nano coolant and the cheap mesh in them filters cannot filter down that far.

How ever a word of warning about mesh filters ... They are a crap idea. If they block up you will blow a pipe off you system and spay coolant all over. If you would like to see if there is a problem with your system get a inline flow meter with a digital readout e.g Koolance make a good one (Koolance INS FM18D flow sensor G1/4 with Display). Then check every now and then if your flow has dropped and If it has then you know there is a problem some ware. An in line filter does nothing except cause problems.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Mayhem does
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He was saying the bicarb is not a good coolant


I know, I was just being silly.

Tore down my wife's rig last night and cleaned out her loop with hot water, baking soda, and flushed with DI, and made a couple other painting mods on her system, and replaced all the tubing in her loop (boy does the Red Dye stain after 6 months!).

Today I'll be reassembling things and filling it back up with Mayhem Ice White and Red Dye (going to try to match the Pink in her keyboard).


----------



## stickg1

I running bicarb water still. Was gonna flush it all today but taking the kids to the water park. My pH is fine, my brand new Primochill Advance LRT is all fogged up. I installed it Tuesday. Primochill wants me to wait a few days to see if it clears up on its own, if not they will send me a roll.

After I get that sorted, I am having a really hard time trying to decide on Pastel White or Pastel Red with extra red dye for a deeeeeep red. Both would look good, what do you guys think. I have a lot of white trim in my case, but the motherboard and RAM are all red.

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/sampic1_zpsd4b81f19.jpg.html


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

There is still something appealing to "clear water" to me. I still run a couple of my rigs that way. It just looks so ... natural ... seeing the occasional water bubble pass by.









If you want to see how Durelene and most of a bottle of Mayhem Deep Red dye looks (which I think is very good), you can check out my [Build Log] Switched Switch thread. I don't have the Red Pastel. My other rig is using the reformulated "Gigabyte Orange" Pastel, and that looks awesome, even after several months of 24/7 use.

I snapped a photo of the Durelene tubing after running nearly 10ml of Deep Red dye for 6 months. It looks sweet in the tubing when it's running, but if anyone had any ideas of changing colors without doing a major cleaning and flat out replacing their tubing, don't ...


----------



## Mayhem

@47 Knucklehead As we have allways said from day one and always will.. Dyes dye .. simple







Some faster than others. heat and PH btw has a big part in how fast you tubing will dye as well as precipitation.

@stickg1 Id go pastel White


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @47 Knucklehead As we have allways said from day one and always will.. Dyes dye .. simple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some faster than others. heat and PH btw has a big part in how fast you tubing will dye as well as precipitation.


Oh I know. I was just sharing my experience with others. Even before I tore down the loop I planed to replace the tubing and doing a major clean. I mean it's not called a dye for nothing.









Tubing isn't expensive, only $0.59 a foot so even on a moderate sized loop like mine, maybe it cost me $1.77. That is nothing compared to the pleasure that an awesome looking computer gives in return.

Mayhem is the only thing that will go in my rigs.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I running bicarb water still. Was gonna flush it all today but taking the kids to the water park. My pH is fine, my brand new Primochill Advance LRT is all fogged up. I installed it Tuesday. Primochill wants me to wait a few days to see if it clears up on its own, if not they will send me a roll.
> 
> After I get that sorted, I am having a really hard time trying to decide on Pastel White or Pastel Red with extra red dye for a deeeeeep red. Both would look good, what do you guys think. I have a lot of white trim in my case, but the motherboard and RAM are all red.


No contest, go with white


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*


Looking good!

Could be the pic but you May want to make sure the Crystal link on your gpu is pushed in all the way, it looks a lil slanted.


----------



## Mayhem

Weve been building a new test system Obversely this isn't built for looks but testing liquids out in a live system that can produce a lot of heat.

this is the info i posted on FB with it
Quote:


> Testing : Mayhems Orange Illusion + EK water blocks on GPU, CPU, Chip set on the Gigabyte Z87X-OC Force (test bench). ( i added 5 mls of extra orange dye in to colour match). System Over clocked to 4.8ghz stable on a mayhems 240mm quad pass rad. Fans running at 5.5 V currently running Intel burn in test and a GPU bench mark at the same time. CPU temp are 98.35c and in-line water temps are 30.01c (heat being removed) on the rad out and 36.95c rad in (heat in). Gigabyte UK and EK Water Blocks. For the know it all doubters who say running this system on a 240 rad is impossible ive added pics of the rad and all i can say to you guys is "get a decent English made rad not a cheap peace of crap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "...


----------



## JohnnyEars

That res is a beaut, what one is it Mick?

edit* ahh it's a DD


----------



## shiney2512

Hi,

l'm looking to use either Mayhems X1 BLOOD RED or X1 CLEAR COOLANT, I'd be running it through on the primochill acrylic red tubing, a/c aqualis reservoir (borosilicate glass) and rog formula vi motherboard (which I'm concerned that the anodised aluminium crosschill block might breakdown and contaminate the other blocks in the loop).

Will the X1 protect my loop from this mix metal corrosion? and also, if I use the X1 red, will it stain my aqualis reservoir?



thanks


----------



## stickg1

Tubing is pretty cheap, even for the Primochill. While they offered to replace mine for free, I might just buy some more anyway. The fogging might have been caused by my low pH, which would be entirely my fault. However, the tubing did fog up a little before I added too much biocide. It just seems like a really rare occurrence that two different sizes of tubing would fog up that easily in the same loop without there being some sort of user error.

Either way, they want me to wait a few days to see if it clears up, but I want Mayhems Pastel White right meow!! So I think I'll order a couple feet of tubing and some pastel concentrate. And if they do send me more tubing, it's always nice to have extra.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Just got done putting the wife's computer back together and bleeding out the air. We added 1 drop of Deep Red Dye at a time then mixed it up until we nailed the perfect shade ...



6 drops of Deep Red dye per 1 Liter of Ice White matches the pink in the Ducky Shine 2 Limited Edition pink keyboard perfectly.



Here is a shot of the newly transformed Switch Switch.

Now I just have to wait for Lutro0 to finish sleeving her Pink, White, and Light Gray cables and me to make a lighted pink power supply cover (to hide all the non-sleeved cables) and her system will be done.


----------



## cyphon

Look
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Just got done putting the wife's computer back together and bleeding out the air. We added 1 drop of Deep Red Dye at a time then mixed it up until we nailed the perfect shade ...
> 
> 
> 
> 6 drops of Deep Red dye per 1 Liter of Ice White matches the pink in the Ducky Shine 2 Limited Edition pink keyboard perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a shot of the newly transformed Switch Switch.
> 
> Now I just have to wait for Lutro0 to finish sleeving her Pink, White, and Light Gray cables and me to make a lighted pink power supply cover (to hide all the non-sleeved cables) and her system will be done.


Looksin good


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiney2512*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> l'm looking to use either Mayhems X1 BLOOD RED or X1 CLEAR COOLANT, I'd be running it through on the primochill acrylic red tubing, a/c aqualis reservoir (borosilicate glass) and rog formula vi motherboard (which I'm concerned that the anodised aluminium crosschill block might breakdown and contaminate the other blocks in the loop).
> 
> Will the X1 protect my loop from this mix metal corrosion? and also, if I use the X1 red, will it stain my aqualis reservoir?
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


you will be fine with X1 change it out every 8 to 12 months and it will have no issues.

@47 Knucklehead Your wife will love that. well done.


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looking good!
> 
> Could be the pic but you May want to make sure the Crystal link on your gpu is pushed in all the way, it looks a lil slanted.


cristal link on gpu is perfect, no problem


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> cristal link on gpu is perfect, no problem


Awesome


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Weve been building a new test system Obversely this isn't built for looks but testing liquids out in a live system that can produce a lot of heat.
> 
> this is the info i posted on FB with it
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Also it seems like you are saying it without saying it but... the illusion is performing well in this test


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*


It looks like a glass of Strawberry Quik









Really tasty and well done Knucklehead!


----------



## Clockwerk

Well rig is sort of done until I can find some more time for finishing touches and sleeving. Thought I would post some pics of it with the pastel sunset yellow in. Sorry for pic quality. Taken from my cell phone. Love the pastel yellow though, seemed much easier to bleed all the bubbles out with this than just running distilled water.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jameswalt1

nice! love the yellow


----------



## SeanJC

Another Mayhem white pastel user here


----------



## Mayhem

Illusion is nothing special. Its just pastel or any mayhems premix plus baby oil.







. The res is made by Cheap skate from the mod zoo / Bit-tech and was made just for me. Its about 12" long and about 3" wide. The oil fill level is just hight enough to cover inlet thread and the out put thread is at the lower end. The pump is a D5 doing between 1.5 Ltr Per Min to 2.5 Ltrs per min. I have been working on different dyes that are different colour for the oils and concentrating them down (you only need a few drops per ltr).


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Nice yellow and black!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Illusion is nothing special. Its just pastel or any mayhems premix plus baby oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The res is made by Cheap skate from the mod zoo / Bit-tech and was made just for me. Its about 12" long and about 3" wide. The oil fill level is just hight enough to cover inlet thread and the out put thread is at the lower end. The pump is a D5 doing between 1.5 Ltr Per Min to 2.5 Ltrs per min. I have been working on different dyes that are different colour for the oils and concentrating them down (you only need a few drops per ltr).


I knew the illusion was oil based so I was wondering how that would do with the cooling, but it sounds like the way you have it, the oil is put in at a level where it is going to stay in the res and not get pushed through the loop


----------



## Squashie

Mayhem Pastel Mint Green:



My log here.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Couple of questsions:

Odds are I'm going to start messing with ridged tubing soon, what is the recommended tubing and fittings to use with Mayhem products to minimize staining?

I already have a considerable investment in Bitspower compression fittings. I'm been using Durelene 1/2 ID x 5/8in OD tubing and it holds up pretty well and doesn't leak. I see on the Mayhem page that they recommend Tygon E1000 tubing, but caution that it doesn't work well with compression fittings because of it's not as rigid as other tubing. So is there a tubing that WILL work well with compression fittings that is as resistant to dye and doesn't suffer from plastization as the E1000?


----------



## JohnnyEars

Tygon used to be recommended due to the fact that it was plasticiser free.. but according to the home page on aquatuning:

"The new Tygon tubing has had a small, but appreciable change because they are now made with bio-based plasticizers. This brings a big benefit so it is now softer than before and also environmental friendly."


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Couple of questsions:
> 
> Odds are I'm going to start messing with ridged tubing soon, what is the recommended tubing and fittings to use with Mayhem products to minimize staining?
> 
> I already have a considerable investment in Bitspower compression fittings. I'm been using Durelene 1/2 ID x 5/8in OD tubing and it holds up pretty well and doesn't leak. I see on the Mayhem page that they recommend Tygon E1000 tubing, but caution that it doesn't work well with compression fittings because of it's not as rigid as other tubing. So is there a tubing that WILL work well with compression fittings that is as resistant to dye and doesn't suffer from plastization as the E1000?


Today, I'd only recommend going for the Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT, it is the only one guaranteed not to have plasticizer issues, all others end up getting plasticizer, even Durelene does after some time.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Today, I'd only recommend going for the Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT, it is the only one guaranteed not to have plasticizer issues, all others end up getting plasticizer, even Durelene does after some time.


The only problem with Primochill LRT is that they don't offer it in 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD sizes, unless they recently added it.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I knew the illusion was oil based so I was wondering how that would do with the cooling, but it sounds like the way you have it, the oil is put in at a level where it is going to stay in the res and not get pushed through the loop


You are correct how ever we have had oil go though the loop but it only raises the temp for a fraction of a second to 0.5c and then goes back to normal. So its pritty safe running it like this and im having fun playing all so its relaxing as hell watching it. I will post a vid on how its all done soon though







.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You are correct how ever we have had oil go though the loop but it only raises the temp for a fraction of a second to 0.5c and then goes back to normal. So its pritty safe running it like this and im having fun playing all so its relaxing as hell watching it. I will post a vid on how its all done soon though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Sweet! Can't wait


----------



## slothiraptor

Does anyone know how I can get a gold or goldish color with Mayhems pastel and dyes. I know there is an Aurora gold coolant but I would rather not use aurora.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> Does anyone know how I can get a gold or goldish color with Mayhems pastel and dyes. I know there is an Aurora gold coolant but I would rather not use aurora.


If you have a specific shade then please post. It should be possible to get a goldish from pastel and dyes


----------



## Mayhem

Its normally a mix of Red , yellow and some use orange and yellow.


----------



## _REAPER_

I am thinking to go with Pastel red on my next build. how bad does the red stain the inside of your blocks?


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its normally a mix of Red , yellow and some use orange and yellow.


Thanks, if I try to make some should I start off with Pastel white or use a different color?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> Thanks, if I try to make some should I start off with Pastel white or use a different color?


If you want full control then go white.


----------



## benito

still believe your products are top notch. redid my loop and refilled with Mayhems pastel mint green and a drop of dark blue dye!


----------



## cyphon

Very nice benito


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benito*
> 
> still believe your products are top notch. redid my loop and refilled with Mayhems pastel mint green and a drop of dark blue dye!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Amazing!


----------



## benito

Thanks guys


----------



## kimoswabi

Good clean bends! Good work. I gotta say the Pastel Mint Green has to be my 2nd favorite color. I think I'm going to have to order it in my next PPCS order.

Ps. Couldn't help but notice the room you took your pictures. Looks like a glass ceiling/ roof or open room? Are you in Hawaii or somewhere tropic?


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Good clean bends! Good work. I gotta say the Pastel Mint Green has to be my 2nd favorite color. I think I'm going to have to order it in my next PPCS order.
> 
> Ps. Couldn't help but notice the room you took your pictures. Looks like a glass ceiling/ roof or open room? Are you in Hawaii or somewhere tropic?


i live in southern New Mexico but my house has really big windows and a lot of plants inside


----------



## Squashie

@benito, awesome build, love the green

Hoping to end up with something similar









myWorklog


----------



## Mrshilka

Big thanks to this thread, Answered all my questions about using this fluid.
Have decided for my new build to use Mayhems pastel white.
Will have pics as it comes together.


----------



## Mayhem

Personally i don't like mint green how ever benito you done goooooood .. ive posted it up on our FB account.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Personally i don't like mint green how ever benito you done goooooood .. ive posted it up on our FB account.


----------



## benito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Personally i don't like mint green how ever benito you done goooooood .. ive posted it up on our FB account.


thanks, i believe you posted my rig when i had originally built it back in January February, the 10th to be exact


----------



## Mayhem

haha Yeh my fav colour im afraid to say is purple or the new UV Lime yellow .. its shockingly bright







.....


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> haha Yeh my fav colour im afraid to say is purple or the new UV Lime Green .. its shockingly bright
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....


Is there a picture of the UV lime green under normal light?


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Pastel Lime Yellow. (i keep naming it wrong lol)


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Pastel Lime Yellow. (i keep naming it wrong lol)


Ahh, thanks for the clarification.


----------



## _REAPER_

Pastel Green is a good color if you can get the rest of your system to match


----------



## Spectre21

I use mayhems Clear / UV blue, nice darkish blue colour. Looks the business.


----------



## steelkevin

@mayhems,

A friend of mine is finally going to order his watercooling parts but he find the Yellow Pastel a bit expensive so he's wondering what yellow pastel dye looks like. He'll wait a couple months before going pastel if it looks good enough to him.
Would you mind digging up some pictures or even testing it if you don't have any







?

cheers.


----------



## Mayhem

Yellow Pastel


----------



## stickg1

I might just say screw the color scheme and get a fun color like lime or yellow. Red or white pastel would look good with my system but I want something more fun.

Mayhems do you have a list of your pastel colors?

edit: Looking at the available colors on PPCS.com, raspberry purple sounds really cool. Do you have a picture of that?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yellow Pastel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh, sorry if I didn't make myself clear enough







. We both know what pastel yellow looks like and that's what he wants but he can't afford it right now so he's thinking about just picking up yellow dye.
That's the colour I was asking about


----------



## SeanJC

@Mayhems, I have a question, if I add mayhem yellow dye to white pastel, will i get the same colour as yellow pastel ?? sorry if it sounds like a dumb question, just wanna make sure

thanks


----------



## Mayhem

It takes a lot of dye to colour pastel but you will get close to that colour.

Pic of yellow dye


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanJC*
> 
> @Mayhems, I have a question, if I add mayhem yellow dye to white pastel, will i get the same colour as yellow pastel ?? sorry if it sounds like a dumb question, just wanna make sure
> 
> thanks


You could probably get it close with the yellow dye. Might need a little red to darken it slightly


----------



## SeanJC

@Mayhem & Cyphon, ok thank you both so much ^^


----------



## stickg1

I just ordered some Ice White Pastel. Looks like I have just enough tubing to redo my loop also. Primochill is going to send me some new tubing but I will flush this stuff out thoroughly with bicarb water and distilled water before I install it this time.

I'm pretty excited about it, I think I use about a liter, I only ordered one bottle of concentrate, it should be enough to stretch through the loop. I'm gonna re-tube and flush today and get a better idea of the amount of fluid used.


----------



## devilhead

Hi, today i have bought Mayhems Pastel - Red 2 liters, and want to make it darker, like blood red, so i need to put couple drops of mayhems blue dye? and before in my system was EK Clear, so have flushed system with distilled water, but still think is some small amount of it, it will be no problems to fill with Mayhems Pastel - Red? after time it will be no reaction?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I have a question about what color to get.... so, few things first, the loop will consist of a tube reservoir, CPU block, possibly four GPU blocks, a motherboard block, and three Alphacool XT45 or three similar EK rads. Now, the color scheme is all black (black sleeving, using a Rampage III Extreme Black Edition and chrome tubing).

Here's the problem, I wanted to use Ice Dragon but I am going to put a light panel with a water channel in it like that one MDPC build. I doubt white coolant will look good in the light panel so what should I use? Could I put some black dye (if that is available) in some distilled and use that? That could have the potential to look pretty sick.

I'm open to suggestions!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I have a question about what color to get.... so, few things first, the loop will consist of a tube reservoir, CPU block, possibly four GPU blocks, a motherboard block, and three Alphacool XT45 or three similar EK rads. Now, the color scheme is all black (black sleeving, using a Rampage III Extreme Black Edition and chrome tubing).
> 
> Here's the problem, I wanted to use Ice Dragon but I am going to put a light panel with a water channel in it like that one MDPC build. I doubt white coolant will look good in the light panel so what should I use? Could I put some black dye (if that is available) in some distilled and use that? That could have the potential to look pretty sick.
> 
> I'm open to suggestions!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I'm actually thinking about the black dye thing myself for my new build I'm prepping right now. I think you're right about the white not looking great with the light panel - it'll be way too much. I think the black dye would be great, I believe it's called mayhems x1 oil black. The pastel black was discontinued I think for color issues.


----------



## Buehlar

I'm using deep red right now an will be changing out my tubing with Adv LRT during next maintenance. I was also thinking about the switch to Pastel UV White.

Opinions needed.

Anybody have pics or videos with the UV white in a rig under lights?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> Hi, today i have bought Mayhems Pastel - Red 2 liters, and want to make it darker, like blood red, so i need to put couple drops of mayhems blue dye? and before in my system was EK Clear, so have flushed system with distilled water, but still think is some small amount of it, it will be no problems to fill with Mayhems Pastel - Red? after time it will be no reaction?


For blood red:
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dyezjUb76lY&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DdyezjUb76lY

You will wanna flush out that ek clear real good to be safe


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Pastel Lime Yellow. (i keep naming it wrong lol)


OMG that looks so sexy Mayhem. I can't wait to get my bottles. I have to wait on an RMA but as soon as my video card gets returned to me and I have the bottles I will get you some pictures. I can't wait to get everything finished.


----------



## Mayhem

Turning IDC black is near impossible and would require far to much dye. they are brining out a new black liquid soon though.

For normal Black you need Purple Dye + Yellow Dye.

For Highly UV active Black Purple dye + Laser Green Dye


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Turning IDC black is near impossible and would require far to much dye. they are brining out a new black liquid soon though.
> 
> For normal Black you need Purple Dye + Yellow Dye.
> 
> For Highly UV active Black Purple dye + Laser Green Dye


I think you misunderstood me







I didn't want to turn Ice Dragon black, I wanted suggestions OTHER than Ice Dragon. Thank you though for your answer on the dyes though!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Squashie

Gratz on 1,000 posts Mayhem Really enjoy your products, Mint Green in my build


----------



## akira749

Hi,

I'm searching for ideas on a next build and I was wondering if somebody has used the X1 Purple in his system?


----------



## stickg1

Wait, how do you make UV Active Pastel White? Do you use some of the UV Clear Blue in it? I was thinking about doing that.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Wait, how do you make UV Active Pastel White? Do you use some of the UV Clear Blue in it? I was thinking about doing that.


Mayhem sells UV active white pastel already
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34095


----------



## stickg1

Ah okay, well I bought Ice White. I reckon I could put a few drops of the clear blue UV dye in for the same (or similar) effect? It says the UV active white turns light blue when activated.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Ah okay, well I bought Ice White. I reckon I could put a few drops of the clear blue UV dye in for the same (or similar) effect? It says the UV active white turns light blue when activated.


That's what you need to do but it might be more than a few drops


----------



## stickg1

Now this might be a dumb question but does it have to be blacklights to activate the UV Dye's? Or will it glow a little bit with white LED lighting?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Now this might be a dumb question but does it have to be blacklights to activate the UV Dye's? Or will it glow a little bit with white LED lighting?


You gonna need blacklights to notice an effect.


----------



## silent54

@ Mayhem

Questions: My loop currently has Pastel Gigabit Orange in it. I need to add a little more as the level has dropped due to condensation. All I see on may of the sites that sell your product is Pastel Orange. Is there a difference between the two?


----------



## kimoswabi

Couldn't you just add more distilled water as the pastel coolants are 75% distilled water anyhow, since you're mixing in 750mL distilled water to 250mL concentrate? And you're only going to be replacing the water that has evaporated which is a very small amount compared up the volume of entire coolant in the loop?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silent54*
> 
> @ Mayhem
> 
> Questions: My loop currently has Pastel Gigabit Orange in it. I need to add a little more as the level has dropped due to condensation. All I see on may of the sites that sell your product is Pastel Orange. Is there a difference between the two?


Should be the same, they are just not calling it Gigabyte Orange anymore


----------



## stickg1

Well I didn't feel like waiting for my tubing to clear up (even though I knew it wont but thats what Primochill told me to do). I had enough to redo the entire loop anyway. I flushed with 4 gallons of distilled water. Then ran a liter of fresh distilled water for a few hours and flushed that too. If the tubing fogs up again then something is wrong with the tubing. Anyway, everything is as clean as can be and I'm ready to fill up with my Ice White Pastel concentrate when it arrives tomorrow morning.

I'm really excited!


----------



## Mayhem

@silent54 Yes you can and ever one after you wrote is right as well







.


----------



## silent54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Couldn't you just add more distilled water as the pastel coolants are 75% distilled water anyhow, since you're mixing in 750mL distilled water to 250mL concentrate? And you're only going to be replacing the water that has evaporated which is a very small amount compared up the volume of entire coolant in the loop?


But wouldn't there be a point where the 1 to 3 mix starts become more water than concentrate? I could add more distilled water but at some point I would need to use a mix to ensure coloring doesn't dissipate. Not sure how long my loop has been pushing Mayhem fluid. I'll have to look. I'm not sure how long I should go before cleaning and changing the fluid. I don't think it's been six months. Been playing hard lately as temps have been up. Level dropped about 1 1/2 inches.By no means am I hurting for fluid. Just looking to maintain through this semester. Can't afford the time to do a major cleaning.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silent54*
> 
> But wouldn't there be a point where the 1 to 3 mix starts become more water than concentrate? I could add more distilled water but at some point I would need to use a mix to ensure coloring doesn't dissipate. Not sure how long my loop has been pushing Mayhem fluid. I'll have to look. I'm not sure how long I should go before cleaning and changing the fluid. I don't think it's been six months. Been playing hard lately as temps have been up. Level dropped about 1 1/2 inches.By no means am I hurting for fluid. Just looking to maintain through this semester. Can't afford the time to do a major cleaning.


If it's evaporation, all you are doing is replacing the distilled water that evaporated so your concentrate to water ratio will still remain the same.
The Mayhems pastels have a very long system shelf life (up to 3yrs) so you're good to go there. Chances are, you'll probably upgrade something or change coolants before your current pastel coolant reaches the end of its life...


----------



## stickg1

As its already been said, I reckon just add the 50-100mL of distilled water that is missing and if it looks like it has diluted the concentrate then consider adding a little more pastel.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm actually thinking about the black dye thing myself for my new build I'm prepping right now. I think you're right about the white not looking great with the light panel - it'll be way too much. I think the black dye would be great, I believe it's called mayhems x1 oil black. The pastel black was discontinued I think for color issues.


I have used the X1 Black Oil before and it was great. It kept its color good and I loved that it showed red if you shine a white LED through it. My current black and red build Brimstone will be using it too. I will hopefully be mixing and filing my rig with it tonight. ll post a few pics if I get it done.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I have used the X1 Black Oil before and it was great. It kept its color good and I loved that it showed red if you shine a white LED through it. My current black and red build Brimstone will be using it too. I will hopefully be mixing and filing my rig with it tonight. ll post a few pics if I get it done.


Please do! It's hard to find builds using Oil Black. I'm on the fence between clear and black for my new build. Maybe Mick can chime in here and post some pics of oil black(?). I'm doing two loops so maybe one will be clear and one black.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Here it is freshly filled. It should look better tomorrow too once all the micro bubble are out.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Looks great! Nice build btw


----------



## cyphon

4 gpu equals awesome


----------



## Mayhem

Ill get some photos of black tommorw guys ive been invited down to Over clockers uk to day to see some thing and speak to them about stuff so will be away all day.

Mick


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Here it is freshly filled. It should look better tomorrow too once all the micro bubble are out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










oh my, that's smexeh!

I wounder what would happen if you put some UV Red dye in there. I'm about to refill my loop, as well as change out a rad and install a new waterblock, and I was scratching my head on what color I should change too, but I think I've just decided.









Thanks for the pics!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ill get some photos of black tommorw guys ive been invited down to Over clockers uk to day to see some thing and speak to them about stuff so will be away all day.
> 
> Mick


Ah yes, the wonderful world of stuff.








Looking forward to seeing more pics of black.


----------



## Mayhem

well got back late and met the OCUK Team and 8 Pack. Handed over to them some new liquids for to them to play with (beta liquids) called "project decimation". Tomorrow were expecting delivery of some new equipment that is a 4 man lift whoot and when it arrives we can start moving forwards with our development. Must sleep now been a very long day.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockwerk*
> 
> Well rig is sort of done until I can find some more time for finishing touches and sleeving. Thought I would post some pics of it with the pastel sunset yellow in. Sorry for pic quality. Taken from my cell phone. Love the pastel yellow though, seemed much easier to bleed all the bubbles out with this than just running distilled water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job on the build. Not a big fan of yellow, but this looks good.


----------



## Clockwerk

Thanks. Honestly wasnt a huge fan of yellow either before I started, but when I went to haswell I didn't want a black and red build and that pretty much meant a gigabyte board or the mpower boards. Went with yellow and am really happy how it turned out for now. Pics do no do the pastel coolants justice. Simply fantastic


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockwerk*
> 
> Thanks. Honestly wasnt a huge fan of yellow either before I started, but when I went to haswell I didn't want a black and red build and that pretty much meant a gigabyte board or the mpower boards. Went with yellow and am really happy how it turned out for now. Pics do no do the pastel coolants justice. Simply fantastic


It looks like a banana, and now I'm hungry.

Great work, btw.


----------



## stickg1

Well I gotta say, so far I couldn't be happier with my Pastel Ice White. For me it really makes the build feel complete. I'm filling and leak testing now.

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/20130906_151410_zpsa54f4b33.jpg.html


----------



## fakeblood

Looks good.

How secure is your res? Looks like it's on a lean. May want to use the 2nd mounting bracket?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Looks good.
> 
> How secure is your res? Looks like it's on a lean. May want to use the 2nd mounting bracket?


Thanks, yeah it was a leaning a little in that picture. Once I tighten everything up it will be good to go.

The GPU block looks cool


----------



## Jameswalt1

Excellent!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Well I gotta say, so far I couldn't be happier with my Pastel Ice White. For me it really makes the build feel complete. I'm filling and leak testing now.
> 
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/20130906_151410_zpsa54f4b33.jpg.html


The white was a good choice


----------



## djnsmith7

Looks awesome, even with the leaning tower...lol...jk


----------



## stickg1

I fixed the leaning tower, lol.

But a question for Mayhems...

Why is your coolant so awesome? I filled up right before I had to go into my night job. I just got home and hooked everything up, with the lighting it looks so good that I almost teared up a bit.

The only thing I am thinking is I might add a little bit of blue dye to it because I love sky blue. Also, the Fractal Design fans and trim has a very slight blueish tint in their white that I think I can better match with some blue dye.


----------



## Mayhem

I wouldn't call it awesome my self but white is very much like a blank canvas ready to be painted. Im glad you like and thank you for your comments. Now the new that the new equipment has arrived we can now progress with more development.


----------



## djnsmith7

Looking forward to seeing some results with the Pastel Pure Black, but I also think a white & black theme would look sick.


----------



## devilhead

used mayhems pastel red plus two drops of mahyems blue dye, still looks bad for me the color.... 1,2 liters of liquid.
want more sharp red







some suggestions? put more blue?


----------



## stickg1

What color dye should I use with the Pastel White to get a slight sky blue tint? Clear UV Blue, Ocean Blue, or just Blue?


----------



## cyphon

@devilhead, looks like a pretty good red to me. Can you postthe shade of red you are going for?

@stickg1, the uv blue you won't notice anything until you put uv lights in it and I don't think uv would look good in your build. Either of the other dyes could tint it but I'd suggest working with a sample outside your loop to get the shade you want. Too much blue and I don't think it will look as nice as just the white


----------



## Mayhem

If you would like a shimmer of blue which is only visible in sunlight the UV clear blue how ever it will not be real blue . If you would like to tint then add blue dye and a tiny 1/2 drop will do the job.


----------



## Tomiger

First time using dye and I'm finishing up my custom desk project. I have a question: I'm using the dark blue dye and I'm trying to get it pretty dark. I've been adding drops every so often but I can't tell if it's circulating correctly. Obviously the first drop did something but when I add more, it seems that the dye hangs around in the reservoir, instead of immediately affecting the water else where.

My loop is a bit complicated:

It starts here in this reservoir



Flows down into the pump, which goes to radiator #1



Then radiator #1 goes to the CPU which goes to the GPUs, then to radiator #2, then to the 2nd reservoir (had an extra one, used it for show haha), then back to the first reservoir



The water in reservoir doesn't bubble/tremble around, so I feel like that is a reason why the dye doesn't circulate well. I've been bleeding it over night, so most of the air bubbles should be gone. Any ideas? Should I just keep adding drops and eventually it'll flow around?

Thanks


----------



## stickg1

Well 1 liter turned out to be exactly the amount of fluid I needed for my loop. I had about 75ml left after filling yesterday and I just topped off the res. Exactly one liter, astonishing and convenient.

I will think about blue dye, it will probably wait until I need more fittings, blocks, rads, ect. so I don't get bent over on shipping. I do plan on getting an EK CSQ CPU block, switching the top rad to a 360mm, and getting a nice pump housing and res mount eventually, so I will just enjoy my icy white goodness until then.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> First time using dye and I'm finishing up my custom desk project. I have a question: I'm using the dark blue dye and I'm trying to get it pretty dark. I've been adding drops every so often but I can't tell if it's circulating correctly. Obviously the first drop did something but when I add more, it seems that the dye hangs around in the reservoir, instead of immediately affecting the water else where.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My loop is a bit complicated:
> 
> It starts here in this reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> Flows down into the pump, which goes to radiator #1
> 
> 
> 
> Then radiator #1 goes to the CPU which goes to the GPUs, then to radiator #2, then to the 2nd reservoir (had an extra one, used it for show haha), then back to the first reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The water in reservoir doesn't bubble/tremble around, so I feel like that is a reason why the dye doesn't circulate well. I've been bleeding it over night, so most of the air bubbles should be gone. Any ideas? Should I just keep adding drops and eventually it'll flow around?
> 
> Thanks


First of all, 2 reservoirs is really not needed and a bad idea. Only time a second reservoir is needed is if you are using two independent loops, but this it still 1 res per loop.

It is going to just take a REALLY long time for the dye to propagate through your loop because of these two reservoirs. I'd drain the loop and redo it with a single res then make a couple litres of the fluid with the color you want, and fill your loop with that


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Well 1 liter turned out to be exactly the amount of fluid I needed for my loop. I had about 75ml left after filling yesterday and I just topped off the res. Exactly one liter, astonishing and convenient.
> 
> I will think about blue dye, it will probably wait until I need more fittings, blocks, rads, ect. so I don't get bent over on shipping. I do plan on getting an EK CSQ CPU block, switching the top rad to a 360mm, and getting a nice pump housing and res mount eventually, so I will just enjoy my icy white goodness until then.


Sounds like a good plan


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> First of all, 2 reservoirs is really not needed and a bad idea. Only time a second reservoir is needed is if you are using two independent loops, but this it still 1 res per loop.
> 
> It is going to just take a REALLY long time for the dye to propagate through your loop because of these two reservoirs. I'd drain the loop and redo it with a single res then make a couple litres of the fluid with the color you want, and fill your loop with that


I see. Well the 2nd reservoir wasn't added for any functionality. But removing it really isn't an option. I built this entire desk from scratch, so there isn't really any option for taking stuff out (I mean, I could take it out, but then there'd be a bit dead spot there and I'd have to rework my entire loop, which is based around where my hardware is, which is based on the physical design of the desk hahaha).

But i do notice that it's starting to work a bit, so I guess it'll just take time, which I don't mind. If it doesn't seem like it's working after a few days, I'll drain and add dye to the water before adding it to the system.

Thanks


----------



## stickg1

I kinda want to open up my res and dunk cookies in there because it's so milky and delicious looking, is that weird?


----------



## Buehlar

LOL^^

@Mayhem
Do you make UV Ice White? If not, I already have some UV Clear Blue so to make Pastel Ice White UV reactive
what ratio should I use per liter?
Thanks


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> LOL^^
> 
> @Mayhem
> Do you make UV Ice White? If not, I already have some UV Clear Blue so to make Pastel Ice White UV reactive
> what ratio should I use per liter?
> Thanks


Yes he makes uv reactive pastel white. Ppcs carries it and frozencpu does as well I think


----------



## cyphon

Package just showed up! Opened it up and what do we have......











Some of the pastel uv lime yellow!









Thanks again Mayhem! I will put up a review when I get back from my work trip


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yes he makes uv reactive pastel white. Ppcs carries it and frozencpu does as well I think


Yea, I know they have "UV Pastel White". I also see non-UV white and Ice white

I was asking about UV reactive Pastel "Ice" White because I didn't see it anywhere. Or is it one in the same? IDk

I have the UV clear blue dye. Should I just get the Ice White and make it reactive?
If so, what drops per liter ratio?
Anyone?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Yea, I know they have "UV Pastel White". I also see non-UV white and Ice white
> 
> I was asking about UV reactive Pastel "Ice" White because I didn't see it anywhere. Or is it one in the same? IDk
> 
> I have the UV clear blue dye. Should I just get the Ice White and make it reactive?
> If so, what drops per liter ratio?
> Anyone?


The uv white one pretty much looks the same as ice white but glows blue under uv.

You can add clear uv blue to ice white but it will take a lot of dye to get a good glow


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Package just showed up! Opened it up and what do we have......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the pastel uv lime yellow!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again Mayhem! I will put up a review when I get back from my work trip


I got the same thing Thursday Cyphon. Can't wait to be one of the first with it in a loop, looks sick just sitting in the jug i mixed in it. Will be tearing everything down and filling it with the Lime Yellow on monday/tuesday.


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel Ice white and UV are both the same product with the UV white getting the UV clear Treatment. USA will now be getting UV white in concentrate form now.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pastel Ice white and UV are both the same product with the UV white getting the UV clear Treatment. USA will now be getting UV white in concentrate form now.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The uv white one pretty much looks the same as ice white but glows blue under uv.
> 
> You can add clear uv blue to ice white but it will take a lot of dye to get a good glow


Thanks for the clarification guys.
I need to place an order and I see PPC currently has the ice white concentrate. I currently have 15ml of UV clear blue dye. How much UV clear would it take to make it reactive?
A lot = how much per liter?


----------



## Mayhem

we use 30 ml per ltr (or 250ml concentrate), PPC will be placing a new order soon with us so will get it in once they have done.


----------



## Buehlar

Cool...so would I expect to see thee UV white concentrate around the same price as the regular white concentrate.
Thanks for the heads up.
Rep+


----------



## djnsmith7

If we use FrozenCPU as a pricing example, all of their Mayhem's Pastel products are $21.95. I would think the UV product would be the same price, but we'll see.

FrozenCPU Pastel Pricing Page


----------



## Pimphare

Hello all, I plan on getting Mayhems pastel green concentrate. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=34082

It says that it can be stored up to 3 years in a cool dry place. Does this also include after opening the container and diluting it with water? I'm probably going to buy two bottles of this to make sure I have enough and for possible leaks that may occur. I'll be mixing a 250ml bottle of concentrate with 750ml of distilled water to make a full liter. I understand that Mayhems coolant has biocide in it, but will the distilled water make it go bad faster when stored?


----------



## Mayhem

@Buehlar We have managed to get the price down now on our UV white. it wqas more expensive before but now were buying the UV in bulk we have got the price down eventually.

@Pimphare As long as you seal it up quickly yes. If you add distilled and store it away it should still last a while.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Pimphare As long as you seal it up quickly yes. If you add distilled and store it away it should still last a while.


Okay thanks Mayhem!


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Buehlar We have managed to get the price down now on our UV white. it wqas more expensive before but now were buying the UV in bulk we have got the price down eventually.
> 
> @Pimphare As long as you seal it up quickly yes. If you add distilled and store it away it should still last a while.


I have some left overs from my Concentrate + Deionized water premix and I'm wondering if it's okay to store it in my room (These days it hits 30ºC-32ºC easily until summer is over). It doesn't get direct sunlight but still, it's only like 300-500Ml left, is it okay to keep that or will it be useless in a few weeks if I cant to use it to re-fill whatever liquid may evaporate in my loop?


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Buehlar We have managed to get the price down now on our UV white. it wqas more expensive before but now were buying the UV in bulk we have got the price down eventually.


Nice...I'll keep an eye out @ PPC for the new stock.
Thanks again


----------



## Mayhem

I can only recommend what we do and that's we keep it at 20 to 25c any other temp higher is more than what we do and will decrease its life but only by a small amount of time.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I can only recommend what we do and that's we keep it at 20 to 25c any other temp higher is more than what we do and will decrease its life but only by a small amount of time.


It's in the bookshelves in my room, somewhere between 26 and 30C these days but should drop in the next few days.


----------



## Mayhem

I dont think its some thing you need to worry about tbh. I know one of our resellers keeps there stuff in containers wich is far from ideal how ever they have had no issues.


----------



## siffonen

I`m not sure that have i posted my rig, but here it is:


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> used mayhems pastel red plus two drops of mahyems blue dye, still looks bad for me the color.... 1,2 liters of liquid.
> want more sharp red
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> some suggestions? put more blue?


Looks good to me. Nice rig too!


----------



## stickg1




----------



## Stuntfly02

Well you wanted some pictures Mayhem and I am here to deliver. I again want to thank you for the chance to test this coolant. I am more than please with the color and so far I see no difference than when I had just water in the loop. Maybe a little overkill but hey I like taking photos of my work.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> 
> used mayhems pastel red plus two drops of mahyems blue dye, still looks bad for me the color.... 1,2 liters of liquid.
> want more sharp red
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> some suggestions? put more blue?


Gotta love good, clean acrylic work. Good work on having nice and straight acrylic lines.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Well you wanted some pictures Mayhem and I am here to deliver. I again want to thank you for the chance to test this coolant. I am more than please with the color and so far I see no difference than when I had just water in the loop. Maybe a little overkill but hey I like taking photos of my work.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Well you wanted some pictures Mayhem and I am here to deliver. I again want to thank you for the chance to test this coolant. I am more than please with the color and so far I see no difference than when I had just water in the loop. Maybe a little overkill but hey I like taking photos of my work.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I dig.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Well you wanted some pictures Mayhem and I am here to deliver. I again want to thank you for the chance to test this coolant. I am more than please with the color and so far I see no difference than when I had just water in the loop. Maybe a little overkill but hey I like taking photos of my work.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks like you filled your loop up with liquid uranium..... Pretty wicked looking, seems like the ideal color if someone wanted to do a "Mad scientist" themed build.


----------



## Mayhem

OH !!!! now its in a system that is bloody lovely. well done Stuntfly02 really nice. Posted up on our Face book if that's oky.


----------



## stickg1

Whoa that UV Lime Yellow looks fantastic...


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> OH !!!! now its in a system that is bloody lovely. well done Stuntfly02 really nice. Posted up on our Face book if that's oky.


Go for it Mayhem. I'm very proud if my work, so post it anywhere you like.

Thank you all for the rep and the praise on my build.


----------



## Lutfij

That lime green looks fantastico!


----------



## siffonen

That is sweet looking!
Makes me wonder that should i dye my pastel white to something else. That uv lime yellow looks amazing, is there a uv green that is atleast almost the same green that nvidia uses?


----------



## cyphon

The UV Lime Yellow does look awesome. I'm even more impressed after seeing it in a system. Good work again Mayhem.


----------



## lowfat

My attempt @ matching MDPC-X grand bleu.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4106-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4107-1.jpg.html


----------



## stickg1

That's a gorgeous color. A little darker than Chicago Cubs/KC Royals blue. Absolutely gorgeous though. All these awesome colors are making my newly applied Pastel Ice White seem less fun. Bad news for my wallet, good news for Mayhems. I think I'm going to do some custom coloring (all Mayhems products) along side some custom painting to really get the look I am going for.

Challenge Accepted.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Well you wanted some pictures Mayhem and I am here to deliver. I again want to thank you for the chance to test this coolant. I am more than please with the color and so far I see no difference than when I had just water in the loop. Maybe a little overkill but hey I like taking photos of my work.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love the color scheme, great work.


----------



## djnsmith7

That shade of blue is Sick!...very nice work on the overall build too...


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> My attempt @ matching MDPC-X grand bleu.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4106-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4107-1.jpg.html


That is the best looking pastel blue I have ever seen. Teach me master. I must learn your ways!!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> My attempt @ matching MDPC-X grand bleu.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4106-1.jpg.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4107-1.jpg.html


Very nice! Great shade of blue


----------



## Mrshilka

Sorry if its been answered before I did a search but did not find it.
Adding Mayhems Dye to a loop that already is running Distilled water and Liquid Utopia in it, would it have any bad effects? and how do they work together.


----------



## Mayhem

Liquid Utopia is nothing special and it works fine with mayhems dyes







.


----------



## cyphon

@Mayhem, the new avatar cracks me up


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Nice job lowfat!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> That is the best looking pastel blue I have ever seen. Teach me master. I must learn your ways!!


White + boat loads of deep blue + lots of purple.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I do have one question though lowfat. Judging by the scratches on the customize chassis, shouldn't you have finished up making the chassis and painting/plasti-dipping that BEFORE you did the coolant color? I mean now you are going to have to not only are you going to have to tear down the whole system when you do want to paint the chassis, but now you will have to drain and recapture all that color matched coolant too.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I do have one question though lowfat. Judging by the scratches on the customize chassis, shouldn't you have finished up making the chassis and painting/plasti-dipping that BEFORE you did the coolant color? I mean now you are going to have to not only are you going to have to tear down the whole system when you do want to paint the chassis, but now you will have to drain and recapture all that color matched coolant too.


I've have another 2L of coolant of the same shade still. Plus I should be able to save this coolant easily enough.

Powder coating is the absolute last thing I get done. I need to make sure I won't have to drill a single hole after the powder coating is done.

Honestly I added the coolant just to see how it looked. I've had it mixed for months now and it has never seen a loop until now.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Doesn't make much of a photo







but here's Mayhems XT-1 clear


----------



## Mrshilka

Excellent, I built this system and then was asked what about an Orange dye and did not feel likely having to break it down and drain and clean it a few days later if LU was going to do crazy things when dye was added.


----------



## weinstein888

Hey Lowfat, do you mind me asking what colors you added to the Ice White? I'd guess some kind of blue and black dye, but my build has grand bleu sleeving as well, and I've been trying to figure out the best way to match it.


----------



## wermad

Killing some time for now:


----------



## crazysurfanz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weinstein888*
> 
> Hey Lowfat, do you mind me asking what colors you added to the Ice White? I'd guess some kind of blue and black dye, but my build has grand bleu sleeving as well, and I've been trying to figure out the best way to match it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> White + boat loads of deep blue + lots of purple.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Killing some time for now:


Did you break down your loop?!?!

Also, why no nickel block? I think the yellow would standout better against the silvery goodness









EDIT:

Just making sure, that isn't blue crud in your block is it?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Did you break down your loop?!?!
> 
> Also, why no nickel block? I think the yellow would standout better against the silvery goodness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Just making sure, that isn't blue crud in your block is it?


I bought a couple of Titans that came with these blocks a few months ago. I sold the Titans when I switched to 780s and it was a no-brainer to keep the blocks. There's some stuff still in there. Probably some of the remainders of the old dyed gunk. I did a quick rinse before going w/ pastel but a few little things will get stuck there. There's some light staining from the Mayhems green dye. Loop is down right now since I"m switching mb and cpu.

edit: I'll run the pastel through a sift just to make sure no more debris gets stuck. Not really ocd' about it but I'll keep an eye on it


----------



## eastoahu

First watercooling build 95% complete.. Needed some opinions on the coolant color









Decided to try Mayhem's pastel white with "Atomic UV Green" Primochill advanced tubing in hopes to get some unique kind of green color...
The results were pretty nice imo. What do you guys think??? Does the white fluid in the res look weird merging into green???



Close up


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eastoahu*
> 
> First watercooling build 95% complete.. Needed some opinions on the coolant color
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Decided to try Mayhem's pastel white with "Atomic UV Green" Primochill advanced tubing in hopes to get some unique kind of green color...
> The results were pretty nice imo. *What do you guys think?*?? Does the white fluid in the res look weird merging into green???
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up


Your rig looks like a super-villians weapon from some DC Comic.


----------



## eastoahu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Your rig looks like a super-villians weapon from some DC Comic.


At least you answered the question


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eastoahu*
> 
> First watercooling build 95% complete.. Needed some opinions on the coolant color
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Decided to try Mayhem's pastel white with "Atomic UV Green" Primochill advanced tubing in hopes to get some unique kind of green color...
> The results were pretty nice imo. What do you guys think??? Does the white fluid in the res look weird merging into green???
> 
> 
> 
> Close up


No offense but way to much blue LED. It totally drowns out the UV effect of the coolant. If you are even using any UV lighting. Looks like just the blue LEDs.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> No offense but way to much blue LED. It totally drowns out the UV effect of the coolant. If you are even using any UV lighting. Looks like just the blue LEDs.


I agree.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eastoahu*
> 
> First watercooling build 95% complete.. Needed some opinions on the coolant color
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Decided to try Mayhem's pastel white with "Atomic UV Green" Primochill advanced tubing in hopes to get some unique kind of green color...
> The results were pretty nice imo. What do you guys think??? Does the white fluid in the res look weird merging into green???
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up


Use one or the other. Don't mix UV reactive anything with regular lighting. It totally kills it. The UV atomic green will look sick using cold cathode lighting only.


----------



## eastoahu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Use one or the other. Don't mix UV reactive anything with regular lighting. It totally kills it. The UV atomic green will look sick using cold cathode lighting only.


Its not UV coolant, only the tubing is UV reactive. I just figured the white inside of the green tubing would make it pop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> No offense but way to much blue LED. It totally drowns out the UV effect of the coolant. If you are even using any UV lighting. Looks like just the blue LEDs.


Again, its not UV coolant, just the pastel ice white. I have 2 blue cold cathodes in there now, and i bought a white UV cathode to even out all the blue but the thing is way too bright its like a fish tank light.

But i agree about too much blue, maybe ill yank out a cathode or something. idk


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eastoahu*
> 
> Its not UV coolant, only the tubing is UV reactive. I just figured the white inside of the green tubing would make it pop
> Again, its not UV coolant, just the pastel ice white. I have 2 blue cold cathodes in there now, and i bought a white UV cathode to even out all the blue but the thing is way too bright its like a fish tank light.
> 
> But i agree about too much blue, maybe ill yank out a cathode or something. idk


Yeah, it's a bit extreme. lol Subtle is better imo. Nice build btw!


----------



## Stuntfly02

UV lighting is all a purplish color so I'm not sure how someone can be selling a white UV light.

I don't know if you saw the pics of my build a few pages back but notice how all my lighting seems to be tinted the same color. The only one that has any bleeding effect is the UV LED strip I have mounted up top. I do have other lighting in my case which I don't have turned on in the pics on the thread. So here is some to give you an idea of what other types of lights in a system will do to your UV effect.

The Green totally drowns out the UV effect.


Purple doesn't really has as much of an effect, or its not as evident.


With the side panel on



I had my lights doing a breathing effect at this time so it was hard to get a full bright effect on the purple.


----------



## Mrshilka

Getting Hard to buy Mayhems fluids in Aus now,
theKoolroom is not restocking what is sold out and they are really it for aussie retailers.

Having to look at overseas to get what I need.


----------



## eastoahu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Yeah, it's a bit extreme. lol Subtle is better imo. Nice build btw!


Thanks!









Good thing i posted here haha, I knew something color wise was off with my rig, but didn't know what it was. It's bright as day now (pun intended)

I went ahead and removed the two rear fans (was going to remove them anyway, looks cleaner imo), Turned ONE of the cold cathodes off, Turned off LEDs on top 200mm fan, Unplugged LEDs from Raystorm CPU block..

Still thinking of going with a different color scheme but it looks better for now in my opinion. It makes the blue reactor on my graphics card stand out more which i like. The antec 1200 isn't really a geat case for lighting anyway. LMK what ya think


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eastoahu*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing i posted here haha, I knew something color wise was off with my rig, but didn't know what it was. It's bright as day now (pun intended)
> 
> I went ahead and removed the two rear fans (was going to remove them anyway, looks cleaner imo), Turned ONE of the cold cathodes off, Turned off LEDs on top 200mm fan, Unplugged LEDs from Raystorm CPU block..
> 
> Still thinking of going with a different color scheme but it looks better for now in my opinion. It makes the blue reactor on my graphics card stand out more which i like. The antec 1200 isn't really a geat case for lighting anyway. LMK what ya think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Me likey! Much better man!







I was planning on getting some UV reactive tubing but I have XSPC gpu blocks that I want to use the led's with so this kinda confirms what not to do. lol I could always get UV bulbs for the blocks though.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrshilka*
> 
> Getting Hard to buy Mayhems fluids in Aus now,
> theKoolroom is not restocking what is sold out and they are really it for aussie retailers.
> 
> Having to look at overseas to get what I need.


This is sad


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eastoahu*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing i posted here haha, I knew something color wise was off with my rig, but didn't know what it was. It's bright as day now (pun intended)
> 
> I went ahead and removed the two rear fans (was going to remove them anyway, looks cleaner imo), Turned ONE of the cold cathodes off, Turned off LEDs on top 200mm fan, Unplugged LEDs from Raystorm CPU block..
> 
> Still thinking of going with a different color scheme but it looks better for now in my opinion. It makes the blue reactor on my graphics card stand out more which i like. The antec 1200 isn't really a geat case for lighting anyway. LMK what ya think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've never liked UV that much but that looks fantastic!








Good job.


----------



## Mrshilka

Even Frozencpu is out of stock on Mayhems Pastel Coolant Concentrate - 250mL - Ice White.
Hard to find it for sale with out having a shipping cost higher than the items I am ordering.


----------



## mavisky

New pics with a better camera.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_0899_zps20def5b3.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_0895_zpsbcdd847b.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_0894_zpscee52dd0.jpg.html

Emerald Green UV.


----------



## stickg1

Ppcs had ice white last week I got some. Mayhems products going out of stock, sounds like Mayhems is moving serious units. Big up! Get paid homie! Your products are legit and we likes dem


----------



## Stuntfly02

You can still use the Blue LEDs in the XSPC block and it shouldn't kill the UV effect. It doesnt in mine.


----------



## Mrshilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Ppcs had ice white last week I got some. Mayhems products going out of stock, sounds like Mayhems is moving serious units. Big up! Get paid homie! Your products are legit and we likes dem


Except 3 bottles of Concentrate is $59 USD from Ppcs and $62 USD to ship to Australia aka $130 AUD to order it.


----------



## eastoahu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> You can still use the Blue LEDs in the XSPC block and it shouldn't kill the UV effect. It doesnt in mine.


Yup you are right, but i actually now think it looks better without them on my rig at least. I shoulda went with a metallic finish block and no LED lighting on it.

Beautiful rig tho, what is that light strip at the top? led or cathode? And how do you make the lights "breathe" or pulse if you will?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Me likey! Much better man!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was planning on getting some UV reactive tubing but I have XSPC gpu blocks that I want to use the led's with so this kinda confirms what not to do. lol I could always get UV bulbs for the blocks though.










 Glad i helped you in some way with your decision! I'm coming to not like regular LEDs so much.. Tho im sure theres some sort of diffusers out there that could look dope.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eastoahu*
> 
> Yup you are right, but i actually now think it looks better without them on my rig at least. I shoulda went with a metallic finish block and no LED lighting on it.
> 
> Beautiful rig tho, what is that light strip at the top? led or cathode? And how do you make the lights "breathe" or pulse if you will?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad i helped you in some way with your decision! I'm coming to not like regular LEDs so much.. Tho im sure theres some sort of diffusers out there that could look dope.


The light on the top is a Phoyba UV LED strip. 30cm strip i think if i remember right. And the breathing/pulsing effect is from the corsair link lighting kit. I had the corsair link from before i watercooled and I like that I can change my lights to any color I want should I decide to. Besides the corsair link I have the UV LED strip a 4inch UV cold cathode and a 15" UV cold cathode. The 15" one is prolly my oldest one and hardly lights up compared to the newer 4" one. I HAD another 4inch one but I ruined the connector when i was trying to sleeve it so I had to use one of my old ones.





There is 1 RBG LED strip next to the 140mm fan on the right side in the second picture and there are 2 more of those strips behind the hdd hot swap bay access door in the first picture.

You can do lots of different things with the lighting kit. Color based on CPU temps and things like that. Custom fan profiles when you have the cooling kit. Its still sort of a beta product sadly. There's many bugs with the software/hardware. Some have been worked out, but the one that really irritates me is that if I shut the PC down it does not remember what color I had the LEDs set to. it still likes to remember my green profile i first set up when I got it. The pulsing effect is rather cool though. It makes the PC look like its breathing. Through quite a bit of trial and error I got as close to the UV purple color that I could get. Doesn't produce the UV effect but it looks nice.


----------



## crazysurfanz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrshilka*
> 
> Except 3 bottles of Concentrate is $59 USD from Ppcs and $62 USD to ship to Australia aka $130 AUD to order it.


Hey mate, these guys are a Wellington, New Zealand based crowd who stock Mayhems stuff and are really good to deal with, not sure if they're set up to ship to aussie, but it couldn't hurt to ask them and see if they can do better than PPCS:

http://techworld.co.nz/advanced_search_result.php?x=-1428&y=-10&keywords=mayhems

edit to add: if you're really stuck and they can't help you out directly, let me know and maybe I can get them and ship them over for you or something.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> *UV lighting is all a purplish color so I'm not sure how someone can be selling a white UV light.*
> 
> *Snip*


That's not entirely true. What you refer to UV lights are more correctly termed Black Light Bulbs, and emit UV-A light, along with a very small amount of purple light. The UV itself is not visible to the naked eye. The purple light is usually only visible on the bulb itself, as it's made out of a material called "woods glass" which is basically dark purple/black glass.

They do make "Germicidal UV Lights" That use UV-C light, which appears white, or with a very minor light blue tint depending on intensity. 

Reptile Lamps are also UV lights, more specifically a mixture of some UV-A and mostly UV-B light, and it very much does appear as a bright white lamp.

Note: Most reptile lights use incandescent bulbs as opposed to the light I linked, which is a cathode based lights as incandescent bulbs also act as a heater for there cage.

I'm unsure how UV-B and UV-C light effects U.V. reactive things, or if it's at all similar to UV-A effects, but there are in fact other colored UV lights.


----------



## Mrshilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazysurfanz*
> 
> Hey mate, these guys are a Wellington, New Zealand based crowd who stock Mayhems stuff and are really good to deal with, not sure if they're set up to ship to aussie, but it couldn't hurt to ask them and see if they can do better than PPCS:
> 
> http://techworld.co.nz/advanced_search_result.php?x=-1428&y=-10&keywords=mayhems
> 
> edit to add: if you're really stuck and they can't help you out directly, let me know and maybe I can get them and ship them over for you or something.


Thanks for that sadly they are NZ only, I will wait a few days to see if Frozencpu bother to return my email asking if they are getting more in stock, I have a large order ready to go though them and was going to add 3 bottles to it only costing an additional 15 bucks shipping.
Just a bugger you go to by a few bottles and everyone is out of stock.


----------



## crazysurfanz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrshilka*
> 
> Thanks for that sadly they are NZ only, I will wait a few days to see if Frozencpu bother to return my email asking if they are getting more in stock, I have a large order ready to go though them and was going to add 3 bottles to it only costing an additional 15 bucks shipping.
> Just a bugger you go to by a few bottles and everyone is out of stock.


Yeah man I know what you mean. I always take ages to order stuff from overseas because I always want to make sure I'm getting absolutely everything I need in one go.

Anyway I have dealt with the guy who runs techworld a bit, so yeah he may be willing to ship to aus as a one off. Worth asking if you can't get them through frozen anyway.

Cheers


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrshilka*
> 
> Getting Hard to buy Mayhems fluids in Aus now,
> theKoolroom is not restocking what is sold out and they are really it for aussie retailers.
> 
> Having to look at overseas to get what I need.


News to us but i will confirm this for you. If it is that way we may work some thing out for you guys.

Frozen CPU have just placed a new order with us and they place regular orders with us all the time.


----------



## Rakin

Best 1/2 ID 3/4 OD clear tubing? My Masterkleer hoses have all clouded up.


----------



## Mayhem

*Nano UV Active Colour Pigment Coolant*

Just got back off my secret mission. Confirmation... Mayhems has created the first ever "Nano UV Active Colour Pigment Coolant". This is some thing we've been working on a for a while and still needs more work but for thouse of you that do not like dyes well this doesn't contain any what so ever and we can make it in many different colours. including a real UV Orange ,UV Red,UV Pink ect ect.

*But what does this all mean?
*
Well imagine a coolant that is UV active that doesn't lose colour, that doesn't care what PH level your system is or what blocks you are running or how hot it is as it will still look the same . Well this is what we are developing and working on right now and its just been confirmed as stable and active and to a nano scale.

*Project Decimation confirmation.*

Its also been independently confirmed today that project Decimation at 40c is 10% more efficient than water at moving heat from one location to another. At 30% its 5% and Below its minimal. How ever we still have a lot more work to do with Project Decimation but we will keep you informed.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> Best 1/2 ID 3/4 OD clear tubing? My Masterkleer hoses have all clouded up.


I'm using 1/2 ID 3/4 OD Primochill Advanced LRT and no clouding issues for me


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *Nano UV Active Colour Pigment Coolant*
> 
> Just got back off my secret mission. Confirmation... Mayhems has created the first ever "Nano UV Active Colour Pigment Coolant". This is some thing we've been working on a for a while and still needs more work but for thouse of you that do not like dyes well this doesn't contain any what so ever and we can make it in many different colours. including a real UV Orange ,UV Red,UV Pink ect ect.
> 
> *But what does this all mean?
> *
> Well imagine a coolant that is UV active that doesn't lose colour, that doesn't care what PH level your system is or what blocks you are running or how hot it is as it will still look the same . Well this is what we are developing and working on right now and its just been confirmed as stable and active and to a nano scale.
> 
> *Project Decimation confirmation.*
> 
> Its also been independently confirmed today that project Decimation at 40c is 10% more efficient than water at moving heat from one location to another. At 30% its 5% and Below its minimal. How ever we still have a lot more work to do with Project Decimation but we will keep you informed.


Great news!!!

Since it's not dye, we can assume that staining issues with red UV and pink UV would gone?


----------



## Mayhem

Yes that is 100% correct and why we started deving this idea 2 years ago. Its still WIP though and testing on high heat loads needs to be conducted.


----------



## eastoahu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> That's not entirely true. What you refer to UV lights are more correctly termed Black Light Bulbs, and emit UV-A light, along with a very small amount of purple light. The UV itself is not visible to the naked eye. The purple light is usually only visible on the bulb itself, as it's made out of a material called "woods glass" which is basically dark purple/black glass.
> 
> They do make "Germicidal UV Lights" That use UV-C light, which appears white, or with a very minor light blue tint depending on intensity.
> 
> Reptile Lamps are also UV lights, more specifically a mixture of some UV-A and mostly UV-B light, and it very much does appear as a bright white lamp.
> 
> Note: Most reptile lights use incandescent bulbs as opposed to the light I linked, which is a cathode based lights as incandescent bulbs also act as a heater for there cage.
> 
> I'm unsure how UV-B and UV-C light effects U.V. reactive things, or if it's at all similar to UV-A effects, but there are in fact other colored UV lights.


Interesting









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20897/lit-352/Logisys_12_Inverterless_True-Color_CCFL_Light_Bar_-_Frontal_180_Lighting_-_White.html

^That is the light i purchased.... It is way too bright


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes that is 100% correct and why we started deving this idea 2 years ago. Its still WIP though and testing on high heat loads needs to be conducted.


Excellent news!!!


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eastoahu*
> 
> Interesting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20897/lit-352/Logisys_12_Inverterless_True-Color_CCFL_Light_Bar_-_Frontal_180_Lighting_-_White.html
> 
> ^That is the light i purchased.... It is way too bright


If thats the "UV" light you were refering to earlier, that is not a UV light. It is a white CCFL light bar.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *Nano UV Active Colour Pigment Coolant*
> 
> Just got back off my secret mission. Confirmation... Mayhems has created the first ever "Nano UV Active Colour Pigment Coolant". This is some thing we've been working on a for a while and still needs more work but for thouse of you that do not like dyes well this doesn't contain any what so ever and we can make it in many different colours. including a real UV Orange ,UV Red,UV Pink ect ect.
> 
> *But what does this all mean?
> *
> Well imagine a coolant that is UV active that doesn't lose colour, that doesn't care what PH level your system is or what blocks you are running or how hot it is as it will still look the same . Well this is what we are developing and working on right now and its just been confirmed as stable and active and to a nano scale.
> 
> *Project Decimation confirmation.*
> 
> Its also been independently confirmed today that project Decimation at 40c is 10% more efficient than water at moving heat from one location to another. At 30% its 5% and Below its minimal. How ever we still have a lot more work to do with Project Decimation but we will keep you informed.


A UV reactive nanofluid that's a better performer than plain water? Sounds like miracle juice, I'll take 10









Any ETA on when these will hit the market?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *Nano UV Active Colour Pigment Coolant*
> 
> Just got back off my secret mission. Confirmation... Mayhems has created the first ever "Nano UV Active Colour Pigment Coolant". This is some thing we've been working on a for a while and still needs more work but for thouse of you that do not like dyes well this doesn't contain any what so ever and we can make it in many different colours. including a real UV Orange ,UV Red,UV Pink ect ect.
> 
> *But what does this all mean?
> *
> Well imagine a coolant that is UV active that doesn't lose colour, that doesn't care what PH level your system is or what blocks you are running or how hot it is as it will still look the same . Well this is what we are developing and working on right now and its just been confirmed as stable and active and to a nano scale.
> 
> *Project Decimation confirmation.*
> 
> Its also been independently confirmed today that project Decimation at 40c is 10% more efficient than water at moving heat from one location to another. At 30% its 5% and Below its minimal. How ever we still have a lot more work to do with Project Decimation but we will keep you informed.


wow just simply wow


----------



## stickg1

I'm looking forward to it Mayhem.


----------



## Mrshilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> News to us but i will confirm this for you. If it is that way we may work some thing out for you guys.
> 
> Frozen CPU have just placed a new order with us and they place regular orders with us all the time.


Thanks for that Mayhems!
I order though thekoolroom a fair bit and when I went to get dyes this time they were sold out and when I inquired to the restock time they informed me it was not coming back into stock and I should order from overseas.


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrshilka*
> 
> Thanks for that Mayhems!
> I order though thekoolroom a fair bit and when I went to get dyes this time they were sold out and when I inquired to the restock time they informed me it was not coming back into stock and I should order from overseas.


Don't make me lose hope in TKR now.........
http://www.ple.com.au/
I believe they keep mayhems.


----------



## Mrshilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALMOSTunseen*
> 
> Don't make me lose hope in TKR now.........
> http://www.ple.com.au/
> I believe they keep mayhems.


Yep I know PLE but as you can see the selection is limited and I am needing pastel white, probably going to go with Frozencpu only option I have right now not costing me a month long shipping or paying more for shipping than I am for the order.


----------



## Mayhem

@ZytheEKS don't get mixed up lol. Decimation is a different product from the UV Active Nano Pigments.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> used mayhems pastel red plus two drops of mahyems blue dye, still looks bad for me the color.... 1,2 liters of liquid.
> want more sharp red
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> some suggestions? put more blue?
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good to me. Nice rig too!
Click to expand...

The first thing that popped into my head was what happens if it fell lol


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> The first thing that popped into my head was what happens if it fell lol


Hope you have it claimed on insurance


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> The first thing that popped into my head was what happens if it fell lol
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you have it claimed on insurance
Click to expand...

That build is not mine







I claim no credit in making such a beautiful build.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @ZytheEKS don't get mixed up lol. Decimation is a different product from the UV Active Nano Pigments.


Damn, was looking forward to using miracle juice to cool my PC, guess I'll just switch back to Unicorn urine and ground-leprechaun.









In all seriousness though, is there an ETA on Decimation hitting the mainstream market, or is it one of those "it will be ready when it's ready" kinda projects?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> That build is not mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I claim no credit in making such a beautiful build.


Lol I was answering your question on what happens if it falls









I too wish I could make such a build. I'm hoping my current WIP is going to turn out nice. First time I'm spending like 2 months to get it just right instead of trying to blast through the process in a weekend lol


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Damn, was looking forward to using miracle juice to cool my PC, guess I'll just switch back to Unicorn urine and ground-leprechaun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all seriousness though, is there an ETA on Decimation hitting the mainstream market, or is it one of those "it will be ready when it's ready" kinda projects?


We have passed a sample onto one of our re-sellers to "play with" how ever there is still an issue we need to try and fix. The issue we have atm is it will stick to tubing because its nano tubes (think of them looking like hollow twigs) and the latch onto tubing because at that scale cheap tubing has many crevasses in them (E.g XSPC tubing looks like a melted grand canyon under the microscope). So as you can imagine this is quite complex but we will keep on "playing" or working to find a possible fix. There is no ETA as such because as per the normal it will be ready when its ready and there is no way we can rush this type of development because no ones done it before







.


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> The first thing that popped into my head was what happens if it fell lol


When i was making those pics, one of my hands was ready to catch if it falls


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have passed a sample onto one of our re-sellers to "play with" how ever there is still an issue we need to try and fix. The issue we have atm is it will stick to tubing because its nano tubes (think of them looking like hollow twigs) and the latch onto tubing because at that scale cheap tubing has many crevasses in them (E.g XSPC tubing looks like a melted grand canyon under the microscope). So as you can imagine this is quite complex but we will keep on "playing" or working to find a possible fix. There is no ETA as such because as per the normal it will be ready when its ready and there is no way we can rush this type of development because no ones done it before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


God's blood, a carbon nanotube nano-fluid?
That must be darker than the night's sky on a lunar eclipse! It all sounds very wicked.









I'm about to switch to acrylic tubing in a week or so, so please keep us posted on the demon juice.


----------



## snef

need your help on this one

need a specific coolant color

need to match this

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Poseidon/Poseidon-1-8_zps6542343b.jpg.html

x1 or pastel

if i use white pastel with yellow dye and a half drop of orange??

thanks for your help


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have passed a sample onto one of our re-sellers to "play with" how ever there is still an issue we need to try and fix. The issue we have atm is it will stick to tubing because its nano tubes (think of them looking like hollow twigs) and the latch onto tubing because at that scale cheap tubing has many crevasses in them (E.g XSPC tubing looks like a melted grand canyon under the microscope). So as you can imagine this is quite complex but we will keep on "playing" or working to find a possible fix. There is no ETA as such because as per the normal it will be ready when its ready and there is no way we can rush this type of development because no ones done it before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Does it have any issues with acrylic tubing? I imagine acrylic, especially if you bake it, would be a smoother surface?


----------



## skywalker311

I'm getting ready to use dyes for the first time and I want to get a nice deep red color. I just bought Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O - 1Ltr and Mayhems Pastel Red Concentrate - 250ml bottle. If I go ahead and order a bottle of Pastel Ice White Concentrate - 250ml. Has anyone tried this setup before and if so how did it turn out.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> I'm getting ready to use dyes for the first time and I want to get a nice deep red color. I just bought Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O - 1Ltr and Mayhems Pastel Red Concentrate - 250ml bottle. If I go ahead and order a bottle of Pastel Ice White Concentrate - 250ml. Has anyone tried this setup before and if so how did it turn out.


If you mean red dye in white pastel, yes people do it all the time. For a really deep red, you'll need a lot of the deep red dye and a little bit of the blue dye I believe


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Does it have any issues with acrylic tubing? I imagine acrylic, especially if you bake it, would be a smoother surface?


We dont know as of yet as well it took 2 years just to get the stuff to work haha.

@snef Yellow and a drop of orange should do the trick fine.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @snef Yellow and a drop of orange should do the trick fine.


Thanks , try this mix


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We dont know as of yet as well it took 2 years just to get the stuff to work haha.
> 
> @snef Yellow and a drop of orange should do the trick fine.


If you need testers with acrylic equipment, I'm sure there are a few of us willing to help


----------



## stickg1

IKR, I don't use acrylic but I'm more than willing to help in testing!

On a side note, I'm thinking of going with a color, I have white now, so with the right amount of dye I could go in any direction. I was thinking about a grey pastel. Do you have a black dye, or how would I go about getting a medium grey tint to my coolant?


----------



## JohnnyEars

Mike did a video about grey pastel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG6y2M6Uvss


----------



## stickg1

Oh cool, thanks for the link. I think I'm just going to go for the sky blue I had mentioned before. I'll get a 15mL bottle of Mayhems Ocean Blue. A couple drops should be plenty I would think.

For clarification, I want it this color...

I think Ice White Pastel and a few drops of Ocean Blue dye and I should be able to get this color...


----------



## Mayhem

Lots of people would like to test it but who is willing to destroy there equipment ... Take B-Neg for instance he once tested one of our early beta fluids and it ruined his res, We did replace it how ever the point being that there is all ways a possibility that our early beta fluids can ruin you equipment. This is one if the reason why we test alot before any one else gets there hands on it so we have a good idea every thing will run fine.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Lots of people would like to test it but who is willing to destroy there equipment ... Take B-Neg for instance he once tested one of our early beta fluids and it ruined his res, We did replace it how ever the point being that there is all ways a possibility that our early beta fluids can ruin you equipment. This is one if the reason why we test alot before any one else gets there hands on it so we have a good idea every thing will run fine.


Very good points


----------



## akira749

Hi,

I'm currently in the process of choosing mt next theme and I wanted to know what would be my best wat to achieve MDPC Violet



I don't think I want to go the Pastel way this time.

I saw the X1 Purple but i'm not sure it will be the same shade.

Thanks for helping me


----------



## Mayhem

@akira749 Just purple dye + Xt-1 or X1 or water + biocide

@stickg1 I dont understand what colour that is as it like its very white to me.


----------



## crazysurfanz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @akira749 Just purple dye + Xt-1 or X1 or water + biocide
> 
> @stickg1 I dont understand what colour that is as it like its very white to me.


Same here, thought I was just colour blind


----------



## Mayhem

To all our "AUS" users.

Ref what was said earlier about "TheKoolRoom" pulling out and not selling our products. I have personally spoken to Stelios over at the TheKoolRoom (via email) and every thing is now sorted. TheKoolRoom will continue to support Mayhems lines as normal.


----------



## stickg1

It's sky blue or baby blue.


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> To all our "AUS" users.
> 
> Ref what was said earlier about "TheKoolRoom" pulling out and not selling our products. I have personally spoken to Stelios over at the TheKoolRoom (via email) and every thing is now sorted. TheKoolRoom will continue to support Mayhems lines as normal.


Good to hear. TKR was a one stop shop for Mayhem's and great service and advice also


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @akira749 Just purple dye + Xt-1 or X1 or water + biocide
> 
> @stickg1 I dont understand what colour that is as it like its very white to me.


Ok so if I go with X1 UV Purple it will be the same or is the purple dye a different shade then the uv purple?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Ok so if I go with X1 UV Purple it will be the same or is the purple dye a different shade then the uv purple?


Should be pretty close. Could always get a little extra dye to Darken it


----------



## Mayhem

X1 UV purple is dark to start with just has X1 + UV Clear Blue dye + Purple Dye in it all ready.


----------



## Mrshilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> To all our "AUS" users.
> 
> Ref what was said earlier about "TheKoolRoom" pulling out and not selling our products. I have personally spoken to Stelios over at the TheKoolRoom (via email) and every thing is now sorted. TheKoolRoom will continue to support Mayhems lines as normal.


That is fantastic Mayhems, Thank you so much, I am not sure why they stopped stocking your gear but very happy they are getting it back in stock.
Will save me 40 bucks shipping right off the bat.


----------



## YeAz

Thought I might post this vid here. There is not much that goes up here with systems running Aurora. Except for the ones that have issues.






Mayhem's products start at 05:18 for those that want to skip the first half.

The loops were built for the fluid and has been going strong for about 3 months now.
The 18w DDC pumps are doing a great job and only some particles starting to gather in the res threads (which is always to be expected).
Temps are doing well 2.
On cold start ups all particles still pick up nicely.

Luv this Product Mick! Cheers


----------



## crazysurfanz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YeAz*
> 
> Thought I might post this vid here. There is not much that goes up here with systems running Aurora. Except for the ones that have issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhem's products start at 05:18 for those that want to skip the first half.
> 
> The loops were built for the fluid and has been going strong for about 3 months now.
> The 18w DDC pumps are doing a great job and only some particles starting to gather in the res threads (which is always to be expected).
> Temps are doing well 2.
> On cold start ups all particles still pick up nicely.
> 
> Luv this Product Mick! Cheers


Awesome build! REP to you man!


----------



## freitz

I have Mayhems Pastel White in PRimochil LRT Advanced. How can you tell if you have discoloration in the tubing? I have been running since August It looks milky white but when I shine a light on it there is a small yellow tint to the tubing and to the res... which makes me think it is the liquid.

See picture.



not the best pictures its a iphone pic


----------



## Mayhem

The white should be as white as the day you put it in. any discoloration will either be crud its picked up or some thing else.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I have Mayhems Pastel White in PRimochil LRT Advanced. How can you tell if you have discoloration in the tubing? I have been running since August It looks milky white but when I shine a light on it there is a small yellow tint to the tubing and to the res... which makes me think it is the liquid.
> 
> See picture.
> 
> 
> 
> not the best pictures its a iphone pic


Yellow is often radiator flux.

- Do you see it consistently throughout your loop or in specific places?
- Did you flush the radiators with boiling water and DI water before using?
- How easy is it for you to drain your loop? If it isn't too bad, you can drain and filter it through like a coffee filter (or finer if you can manage) and it should remove any of the discoloration.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yellow is often radiator flux.
> 
> - Do you see it consistently throughout your loop or in specific places?
> - Did you flush the radiators with boiling water and DI water before using?
> - How easy is it for you to drain your loop? If it isn't too bad, you can drain and filter it through like a coffee filter (or finer if you can manage) and it should remove any of the discoloration.


I am thinking the discoloration is coming from the tubing. If you look at the blocks they are white as can be but if you look at the tubes they to me look to have a slight yellowish to them more milky then ice white... But that is also present with the Res so it could be a lighting issue. Im not sure.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I am thinking the discoloration is coming from the tubing. If you look at the blocks they are white as can be but if you look at the tubes they to me look to have a slight yellowish to them more milky then ice white... But that is also present with the Res so it could be a lighting issue. Im not sure.


My Ice White is a little yellow in the tubes too. I also use Primochill Advanced LRT. I think it's a combination of the tubing and lighting. My res is still milky white.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The white should be as white as the day you put it in. any discoloration will either be crud its picked up or some thing else.


Would you suggest draining to and running through a filter as someone else suggested and seeing if it is in fact the tubing? I don't seem to be having any flow problems.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We dont know as of yet as well it took 2 years just to get the stuff to work haha.
> 
> @snef Yellow and a drop of orange should do the trick fine.


Plenty of us have acrylic loops if you want to send some out for testing









I know ill be filling my acylic loop with mayhems pastel white in a few weeks


----------



## kimoswabi

As good as the Primochill Advanced LRT tube is, it does have a very slight brownish tint to the tubes. (Some other brands have a more noticeable tint.) The tint seems to be more noticeable with natural lighting and against pastel white coolants. Using LED or any other artificial lighting inside the case seems to make the brownish tint almost unnoticeable.


----------



## freitz

That might be it I use warm lights in the house. But in natural day light into the office I don't notice it. So I could just be the natural shade of the tubing? Like I said my res looks about the same as you can see from pictures


----------



## stickg1

Here I took a picture of mine. In the back, the tube coming off the pump was some older Advanced LRT 3/4OD that I had. The rest of the tubing is 7/16ID-5/8OD Adv. LRT and 3/8ID-1/2OD Adv. LRT. I took this picture to send to Primochill as their support has been troubleshooting my previously cloudy, now yellowing tubing.

You'll notice that the reservoir and the 3/4OD tubing in the back are still nice and milky. While my other tubing looks like spoiled buttermilk.


----------



## snef

another color question

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Sleeve_zpsfc225719.jpg.html
need this color in pastel please

how can i do this color?

white pastel mix with a little bit of brown chocolate?

thanks for your help


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> another color question
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Sleeve_zpsfc225719.jpg.html
> need this color in pastel please
> 
> how can i do this color?
> 
> white pastel mix with a little bit of brown chocolate?
> 
> thanks for your help


Almost looks like you'd want to make a light gray and then tint with some yellow? I could be wrong


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> another color question
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Sleeve_zpsfc225719.jpg.html
> need this color in pastel please
> 
> how can i do this color?
> 
> white pastel mix with a little bit of brown chocolate?
> 
> thanks for your help




this is Pastel Sunset Yellow and Ocean Blue with a touch of orange. So the only thing i would suggest is Ocean Blue Dye, Yellow Dye and Orange Dye but test in small amount on pastel. Flash is off when flash is on it looks yellower.


----------



## snef

wow thanks, I will try

you used pastel white with equal drop of yellow and ocean blue and add just a little of orange?

just to start me somewhere


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Here I took a picture of mine. In the back, the tube coming off the pump was some older Advanced LRT 3/4OD that I had. The rest of the tubing is 7/16ID-5/8OD Adv. LRT and 3/8ID-1/2OD Adv. LRT. I took this picture to send to Primochill as their support has been troubleshooting my previously cloudy, now yellowing tubing.
> 
> You'll notice that the reservoir and the 3/4OD tubing in the back are still nice and milky. While my other tubing looks like spoiled buttermilk.


Great Thanks I don't think mine is buttermilk yet but I have another pack of the LRT Advanced I might try next time I do a tear down


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Here I took a picture of mine. In the back, the tube coming off the pump was some older Advanced LRT 3/4OD that I had. The rest of the tubing is 7/16ID-5/8OD Adv. LRT and 3/8ID-1/2OD Adv. LRT. I took this picture to send to Primochill as their support has been troubleshooting my previously cloudy, now yellowing tubing.
> 
> You'll notice that the reservoir and the 3/4OD tubing in the back are still nice and milky. While my other tubing looks like spoiled buttermilk.


*UPDATE
*
Based on the images I sent him/her, the Primochill rep suspects that PPCs sent me Pro instead of Advance tubing on accident. Because my problems looked exactly like what they experienced with their PRO line of tubing.

The problem is being resolved, Primochill is sending me a few feet of Advance LRT for free.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> wow thanks, I will try
> 
> you used pastel white with equal drop of yellow and ocean blue and add just a little of orange?
> 
> just to start me somewhere


erm i forgot i was doing other things when i saw you post and only spent 3 min making it lol. I think you'd be better off with a yellow base but do not make it to bright.


----------



## devilhead

it's normal that after i have drained my system my acrylic tubing(E22) is pink?







used Pastel red


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> it's normal that after i have drained my system my acrylic tubing(E22) is pink?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> used Pastel red


Is this after you've flushed your system?


----------



## skitz9417

hi guys im just wondering is it safe to use this in a loop with a kill coll and http://ple.com.au/ViewItem.aspx?InventoryItemID=610534&CategoryID=683

http://ple.com.au/ViewItem.aspx?InventoryItemID=611445&CategoryID=683

or should i get this one http://ple.com.au/ViewItem.aspx?InventoryItemID=610514&CategoryID=683


----------



## givmedew

Don't use a kill coil at all...

Just use this http://ple.com.au/ViewItem.aspx?InventoryItemID=611441&CategoryID=683#specificationstab

or buy the aurora if that is the look you are going for.

Both have corrosion and algae inhibitors. Kill coils are bad news and mixing it with CuSO4 (what I am guessing is the blue stuff you linked) is even more of a bad idea. The first thing you linked is probably only to kill algae and probably doesn't have corrosion inhibitors the 2nd thing you linked I believe is just dye and doesn't have anything to kill algae or stop corrosion. The 3rd thing you linked does have things to stop corrosion and algae and what I linked does as well.


----------



## skitz9417

so just use this stuff then http://ple.com.au/ViewItem.aspx?InventoryItemID=611441&CategoryID=683#specificationstab with stilled water ?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> it's normal that after i have drained my system my acrylic tubing(E22) is pink?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> used Pastel red


don't worry, mine did the same after draining pastel mint green. It then effortlessly rinsed off with flushing.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitz9417*
> 
> so just use this stuff then http://ple.com.au/ViewItem.aspx?InventoryItemID=611441&CategoryID=683#specificationstab with stilled water ?


Yes


----------



## stickg1

I keep looking at that blue berry pastel. Looks really tasty. I think I might get some then paint my trim to match. After all, the way I set up my loop makes it a PITA to drain. I basically open the top of the res and tip the machine over and drip into a bucket on the floor. I don't think I will go through the hassle of straining and saving the ice white. Primochill is sending me new tubing so I have to either drain and refill, or just deal with half of my tubing being off-white yellowish.

Anyone have any pics of blue berry pastel loops to help push me in that direction?!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I keep looking at that blue berry pastel. Looks really tasty. I think I might get some then paint my trim to match. After all, the way I set up my loop makes it a PITA to drain. I basically open the top of the res and tip the machine over and drip into a bucket on the floor. I don't think I will go through the hassle of straining and saving the ice white. Primochill is sending me new tubing so I have to either drain and refill, or just deal with half of my tubing being off-white yellowish.
> 
> Anyone have any pics of blue berry pastel loops to help push me in that direction?!


Here ya go, from my current machine and an acrylic test


----------



## Squashie

*Final photos:*




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















If u wanna see what i had to do to make my Universal GPU blocks work, check my BUILD LOG


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Here ya go, from my current machine and an acrylic test
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You've done some nice things here! I like the fat tubing. It really beefs things up. Also the Koolance pump and res combo is very complimenting.


----------



## GMPoison

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> You've done some nice things here! I like the fat tubing. It really beefs things up. Also the Koolance pump and res combo is very complimenting.


Is that 3/8 x 5/8? I plan on using this for the same bulky look, I don't want skinny tubing in my upcoming build.


----------



## stickg1

Gorgeous cyphon. Might be too blue for my intentions. I think I'll get white and blue dye. That way I can tinker and then when I get the right ratio I can retube and refill.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMPoison*
> 
> Is that 3/8 x 5/8? I plan on using this for the same bulky look, I don't want skinny tubing in my upcoming build.


I think it might by 1/2 x 3/4. Anyway you'd probably want to go with that size. I'll be using the fat stuff myself.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> You've done some nice things here! I like the fat tubing. It really beefs things up. Also the Koolance pump and res combo is very complimenting.


I really like the Koolance combo as well. It is solid manufacturing, looks clean, and removes two fittings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMPoison*
> 
> Is that 3/8 x 5/8? I plan on using this for the same bulky look, I don't want skinny tubing in my upcoming build.


It is 1/2" ID and 3/4" OD

Note: if you want that size tube and use compressions, you have to be careful because they are pretty bulky and sometimes the block manufacturers don't leave enough room to put two of the fittings. That koolance pump combo actually is an example of this. I was forced to use some angled fittings in there to get enough room for the compressions


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Gorgeous cyphon. Might be too blue for my intentions. I think I'll get white and blue dye. That way I can tinker and then when I get the right ratio I can retube and refill.


That is the blueberry pastel untouched. If you want lighter blue, the I'd say do go white pastel and add blue or ocean blue dye


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That is the blueberry pastel untouched. If you want lighter blue, the I'd say do go white pastel and add blue or ocean blue dye


Yeah that's what I think I will do. That way I can add drops of ocean blue to my current white and get the ratio correct, then change my tubing and do it all over again with some new Ice White.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah that's what I think I will do. That way I can add drops of ocean blue to my current white and get the ratio correct, then change my tubing and do it all over again with some new Ice White.


Sounds like a plan


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squashie*
> 
> *Final photos:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If u wanna see what i had to do to make my Universal GPU blocks work, check my BUILD LOG


Love it


----------



## snef

I tried a lot of mix for lower blue than pastel blueberry blue

I tried white with dye, personal taste, don't like it

I tried blueberry blue pastel and white pastel (50%-50%) and (75%-25%)
a way better but not what I want, finished with untouched blueberry blue

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/icyblueangel-12_zps8febb8aa.jpg.html


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> I tried a lot of mix for lower blue than pastel blueberry blue
> 
> I tried white with dye, personal taste, don't like it
> 
> I tried blueberry blue pastel and white pastel (50%-50%) and (75%-25%)
> a way better but not what I want, finished with untouched blueberry blue
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/icyblueangel-12_zps8febb8aa.jpg.html


Nice and clean as always!

How do you get to do so many builds?! are these for clients or do you have some sponsors?


----------



## snef

Thanks

No sponsor or clents

All from my pocket, this one is my wife's rig

And im not a seller, i have a lot of watercooling gear

Sometime, i sell a rig if i want a new one , but i like to keep them all


----------



## stickg1

So another update on my yellowing/fogging issue. Primochill and I are certain that I was sent PRO instead of Advanced. Today at my doorstep was a 10ft retail package of 7/6ID-5/8OD Advance LRT Tubing and ~6ft of 3/8ID-5/8OD Advance LRT. I had only ordered 5ft and 2ft respectively and was able to do my loop twice. Now I have tubing for my next few builds!

About to order some dye and more pastel white. Trying to decide on where/how to implement an easy drain port for the loop this time around. So I will need a few fittings etc.

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/20130919_141503_zps6b13445b.jpg.html


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> No sponsor or clents
> 
> All from my pocket, this one is my wife's rig
> 
> And im not a seller, i have a lot of watercooling gear
> 
> Sometime, i sell a rig if i want a new one , but i like to keep them all


hahaha, awesome. Are you putting in top notch hardware in all of them too? I've only focused on your wc and not the actual components, lol


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So another update on my yellowing/fogging issue. Primochill and I are certain that I was sent PRO instead of Advanced. Today at my doorstep was a 10ft retail package of 7/6ID-5/8OD Advance LRT Tubing and ~6ft of 3/8ID-5/8OD Advance LRT. I had only ordered 5ft and 2ft respectively and was able to do my loop twice. Now I have tubing for my next few builds!
> 
> About to order some dye and more pastel white. Trying to decide on where/how to implement an easy drain port for the loop this time around. So I will need a few fittings etc.
> 
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/20130919_141503_zps6b13445b.jpg.html


Wooo!


----------



## kimoswabi

Noice! Let's hope your days of plasticizer tubes are behind you for good!


----------



## Mayhem

Ladies and Gents we have taken on a new support member who will introduce him self soon. They will be dealing with any questions from now on and any information and support. They are very well versed in mayhems and our product lines.

Im stepping down from the support role now and will be spending more time hidden in my bat cave







.

Mick


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ladies and Gents we have taken on a new support member who will introduce him self soon. They will be dealing with any questions from now on and any information and support. They are very well versed in mayhems and our product lines.
> 
> Im stepping down from the support role now and will be spending more time hidden in my bat cave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Mick


You will be missed.

I believe I can speak for everyone here by saying how much we appreciate all the amazing help you have been giving in this thread day after day. Hoping this doesn't mean we won't see you around again.


----------



## crazysurfanz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> You will be missed.
> 
> I believe I can speak for everyone here by saying how much we appreciate all the amazing help you have been giving in this thread day after day. Hoping this doesn't mean we won't see you around again.


What he said!!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ladies and Gents we have taken on a new support member who will introduce him self soon. They will be dealing with any questions from now on and any information and support. They are very well versed in mayhems and our product lines.
> 
> Im stepping down from the support role now and will be spending more time hidden in my bat cave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Mick


As kcuestag said, we will miss you and hopefully you will step in every now and then.

I hope the extra time in the bat cave will mean we get Project Decimation on the shelves sooner







Really, we are looking at a 'Shut up and take my money' situation when it does hit the shelves









Good luck and thanks for your support.


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ladies and Gents we have taken on a new support member who will introduce him self soon. They will be dealing with any questions from now on and any information and support. They are very well versed in mayhems and our product lines.
> 
> Im stepping down from the support role now and will be spending more time hidden in my bat cave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Mick


But you will obviously still be posting the surprise videos on all the weird and wonderful things you come up with?








You will be missed!


----------



## Mayhem

ill do what i can how ever mayhems has picked up alot and literally taken off.

Th0rn0 "will" have access to development stuff and we will chat to him about what he can show and what he cannot. Ill also be sorting out full sets of our products so he can better support questions about colour how ever if needs be he has direct access to me for answers.

Also thank you ever one for making Mayhems what it is. It would be nothing with out your support. Mayhems isn't a company run by business men, it is run by hobbyist like you self's.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Congrats on the business taking off like it has Mick, your input will be missed - all hail the new rep


----------



## szeged

Mick you are by far one of the greatest vendors ive ever had the pleasure of meeting, you are the definition of going above and beyond, you will be missed, dont doubt that!


----------



## ZytheEKS

But now who's going to pop into various threads and end their input with cliffhangers!!!

In all seriousness, it's a shame to hear you won't be active anymore. Keep up all the amazing work on dev though. Geat products, great quality, and great customer support, all have been an abundant part of the Mayhems experience.


----------



## Mayhem

As for cliff hanger moments ill leave one here just for a laugh, Just got back from the company we have partnered with with a sample of some thing ie been working on and these were the results ... 60nm product cannot tell you what it is but we nicked name it Eureka :0... The blue line is a comparison the green line is what ive made so far







.



this week im getting to play with a electron microscope hehehehehe ...


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> As for cliff hanger moments ill leave one here just for a laugh, Just got back from the company we have partnered with with a sample of some thing ie been working on and these were the results ... 60nm product cannot tell you what it is but we nicked name it Eureka :0... The blue line is a comparison the green line is what ive made so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> this week im getting to play with a electron microscope hehehehehe ...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> As for cliff hanger moments ill leave one here just for a laugh, Just got back from the company we have partnered with with a sample of some thing ie been working on and these were the results ... 60nm product cannot tell you what it is but we nicked name it Eureka :0... The blue line is a comparison the green line is what ive made so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> this week im getting to play with a electron microscope hehehehehe ...


If my memory from thermo and heat transfer is correct, q is heat transferred per unit time, so if I'm reading the graph right then your .5-.6nm particles........ good God


----------



## Th0rn0

Hey all,

So here I am. Hello one and all I'm Th0rn0. So as you have heard I'll be dealing with any questions, information or support you may need to allow Mick and Steve to concentrate on what makes Mayhems so god dam good.

A little background information on me:

I've been a PC gamer ever since I got a Windows 95 rig in 1995/6 (Dont remember exactly, I was only 5 years old at the time). Grew up playing Quake 1. And then Quake 2. And then Quake 3 (see where I'm going with this?) I've even played semi professionally. Grew up playing a lot of Half life, HLDM, and Counter Strike (every version since 1.5). Since around 2002 I started attending Lan Parties and this is where my love for PC modding came to fruition. Ever since then I've been building and selling PCs for myself and clients.

Fast forward to about 3/4 years ago and I was introduced to the world of Mayhem's Aurora. All I'd seen until this point was crap, pale, colorless liquids that lost their color very quickly. Seeing the Aurora, I was blown away. Since then I've exclusively used Mayhem's Coolant in all of my personal and client systems. I'm a avid system builder and watercooling (as I'm sure most of you are) so any questions about either watercooling or the coolant just ask I'd be more than happy to help.

Cya around


----------



## kcuestag

Welcome to the forums, *Th0rn0*.

We are happy to have you around.


----------



## Th0rn0

Thanks







Honestly dont know why I haven't been on this site much before. I used to frequent Tech Power Up all the time before I went to uni, then all of a sudden it got really crap







That was... 6 years ago though.


----------



## siffonen

Today got my order, planning to make nvidia-green pastel, but having some trouble with one of the uv-yellow/green bottle. I have to press it reallt hard to get a drop. Other two bottles i ordered are much easier to use. Should i contact mayhems sales? I can use it, but ny fingers are hurting









Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4


----------



## skruffs01

*Welcome to OCN Th0rn0*







I am sure you will find that OCN will put you right to work









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Today got my order, planning to make nvidia-green pastel, but having some trouble with one of the uv-yellow/green bottle. I have to press it reallt hard to get a drop. Other two bottles i ordered are much easier to use. Should i contact mayhems sales? I can use it, but ny fingers are hurting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4


One of my bottles did the same, I just put a needle through the top to open the hole a bit.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th0rn0*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> So here I am. Hello one and all I'm Th0rn0. So as you have heard I'll be dealing with any questions, information or support you may need to allow Mick and Steve to concentrate on what makes Mayhems so god dam good.
> 
> A little background information on me:
> 
> I've been a PC gamer ever since I got a Windows 95 rig in 1995/6 (Dont remember exactly, I was only 5 years old at the time). Grew up playing Quake 1. And then Quake 2. And then Quake 3 (see where I'm going with this?) I've even played semi professionally. Grew up playing a lot of Half life, HLDM, and Counter Strike (every version since 1.5). Since around 2002 I started attending Lan Parties and this is where my love for PC modding came to fruition. Ever since then I've been building and selling PCs for myself and clients.
> 
> Fast forward to about 3/4 years ago and I was introduced to the world of Mayhem's Aurora. All I'd seen until this point was crap, pale, colorless liquids that lost their color very quickly. Seeing the Aurora, I was blown away. Since then I've exclusively used Mayhem's Coolant in all of my personal and client systems. I'm a avid system builder and watercooling (as I'm sure most of you are) so any questions about either watercooling or the coolant just ask I'd be more than happy to help.
> 
> Cya around


Welcome!

Also If you like half life, look at my current build log for crowbar in my signature


----------



## Mrshilka

Given up on waiting for theKoolroom to respond to WHEN they are restocking Mayhems.

Just going to order from the states for this build but the shipping from now on is really going to kill my budget when it comes to dyes and fluids for future builds.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrshilka*
> 
> Given up on waiting for theKoolroom to respond to WHEN they are restocking Mayhems.
> 
> Just going to order from the states for this build but the shipping from now on is really going to kill my budget when it comes to dyes and fluids for future builds.


Lame!

You have anything else to order with the fluid to make shipping costs more such pain?


----------



## Mrshilka

For this build yes but I will be limited in future builds, Frankly right now to give you an idea I can get a CaseLabs case shipped to Aus cheaper than I can ship 3 250ml bottles of Mayhems.
Not Mayhems problem but frustrating as an Aussie builder that local companies are so limited.


----------



## Th0rn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrshilka*
> 
> Given up on waiting for theKoolroom to respond to WHEN they are restocking Mayhems.
> 
> Just going to order from the states for this build but the shipping from now on is really going to kill my budget when it comes to dyes and fluids for future builds.


Edited - Ah Aus, I'll see if there is anything I can find as I know there are quite a few build named system builders in Australia that use Mayhems.


----------



## Th0rn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Today got my order, planning to make nvidia-green pastel, but having some trouble with one of the uv-yellow/green bottle. I have to press it reallt hard to get a drop. Other two bottles i ordered are much easier to use. Should i contact mayhems sales? I can use it, but ny fingers are hurting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4


Man up? lol

you could cut a bit more off the nib on the end. Make sure not too much though


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mrshilka*
> 
> For this build yes but I will be limited in future builds, Frankly right now to give you an idea I can get a CaseLabs case shipped to Aus cheaper than I can ship 3 250ml bottles of Mayhems.
> Not Mayhems problem but frustrating as an Aussie builder that local companies are so limited.










pretty ridiculous how shipping works out sometimes......


----------



## ALMOSTunseen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th0rn0*
> 
> Edited - Ah Aus, I'll see if there is anything I can find as I know there are quite a few build named system builders in Australia that use Mayhems.


Yes... Aus.
Singularity Computers is a big one, his builds are great, he uses mayhems and gets most of his stuff through TKR.
Personally I've had no issues with thekoolroom, when I got my mayhems from them it was wrapped up like a nuclear shell when it was posted to me.


----------



## Th0rn0

A order to The Kool Room was shipped this week. Delivery to them can take anywhere from 3 to 14 days dependent on customs. They should be getting their stock replenished soon


----------



## Mrshilka

Hey thanks for that!.

I am not sure why they could not tell me this themselves in my half dozen emails.

But good to know for future.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ladies and Gents we have taken on a new support member who will introduce him self soon. They will be dealing with any questions from now on and any information and support. They are very well versed in mayhems and our product lines.
> 
> Im stepping down from the support role now and will be spending more time hidden in my bat cave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Mick


Take care Mick. Hopefully you won't be a stranger around these parts.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th0rn0*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> So here I am. Hello one and all I'm Th0rn0. So as you have heard I'll be dealing with any questions, information or support you may need to allow Mick and Steve to concentrate on what makes Mayhems so god dam good.
> 
> A little background information on me:
> 
> I've been a PC gamer ever since I got a Windows 95 rig in 1995/6 (Dont remember exactly, I was only 5 years old at the time). Grew up playing Quake 1. And then Quake 2. And then Quake 3 (see where I'm going with this?) I've even played semi professionally. Grew up playing a lot of Half life, HLDM, and Counter Strike (every version since 1.5). Since around 2002 I started attending Lan Parties and this is where my love for PC modding came to fruition. Ever since then I've been building and selling PCs for myself and clients.
> 
> Fast forward to about 3/4 years ago and I was introduced to the world of Mayhem's Aurora. All I'd seen until this point was crap, pale, colorless liquids that lost their color very quickly. Seeing the Aurora, I was blown away. Since then I've exclusively used Mayhem's Coolant in all of my personal and client systems. I'm a avid system builder and watercooling (as I'm sure most of you are) so any questions about either watercooling or the coolant just ask I'd be more than happy to help.
> 
> Cya around


Welcome Th0rn0.


----------



## Mayhem

@Mrshilka As a company grows it is hard to answer some of the smaller emails such as "when will some thing come into stock". Some times the company doesn't know and is never told by the manufacturer or stockist. Some times they are so rushed off there feet with packing orders, getting stock in, sorting our RMA ect ect. People are to easily ready to jump down the necks of many internet shops (im not saying you are) for very little reason.

Im realising this more and more as we grow and having time to carry on supporting say forums, facebook and emails is really difficult as you grow. There is very little profit in a lot of cooling gear because of the constant under cutting done by certain companies. This is done to wipe out smaller more dedicated companies so they do not have the money to spend on support staff and choke a little company to death which in turn has a knock on effect.

The Kool room is a good company and have supported Mayhems for many years ... Support your smaller companies and keep water cooling what it is.


----------



## Mrshilka

I understand that, But remember my last email from them was telling me to buy Mayhems from overseas because they did not intend to restock it.
Been buying from theKoolroom for years as well and I can only go off what they decide to show me.

Still my first stop for WC parts for all my personal and customer builds And I always recommend them to people , I wanted to edit this to point that out.


----------



## stickg1

Not stocking Mayhems products seems like a poor decision for a company that supplies watercooling gear. A good percentage of the builds I have seen in the logs section use a Mayhems product for their coolant! I'm sure you're not the only one that has been asking them when they will restock.


----------



## air tree

Is there any deeper or a different colour of purple you guys have? Because going from the picture you have the purple looks way more like a dark blue than purple.

Is this just me?


----------



## cyphon

What shade of purple you want?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Is there any deeper or a different colour of purple you guys have? Because going from the picture you have the purple looks way more like a dark blue than purple.
> 
> Is this just me?


I've seen people get some crazy shades of purple made. Post a pic of the color you want, and Mayhems, or I guess Th0rn0's in charge of that now, will get back to you about what to mix to get it.


----------



## air tree

This is the purple that i find just beautiful



Here is the guys build log that i took this from http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/31214-wip-snefs-purple-chimera-completed/ He did say that it was Mayhems purple pastel.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> This is the purple that i find just beautiful
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the guys build log that i took this from http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/31214-wip-snefs-purple-chimera-completed/ He did say that it was Mayhems purple pastel.


Ah yes I had feeling you'd be after this one lol

That is a snef build. I know he posted the mix at some point. I remember it had several dyes that he used. he drops in this thread pretty often so maybe he will see this and help you out


----------



## kimoswabi

Refilled loop with Mayhems Pastel White in PrimoChill acrylics. This Prodigy will be torn down shortly and my 7yr daughter & I will be rebuilding it as her new case with some components from her Lian Li PC-Q08 mini ITX.

Currently on the hunt for a new mini ITX case...


----------



## _REAPER_

Now that is a nice build


----------



## lowfat

Nice bends.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Refilled loop with Mayhems Pastel White in PrimoChill acrylics. This Prodigy will be torn down shortly and my 7yr daughter & I will be rebuilding it as her new case with some components from her Lian Li PC-Q08 mini ITX.
> 
> Currently on the hunt for a new mini ITX case...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The pastel white is very on the money here! You bends are awesome and I really like the way the Silver of the Primochill match the Silver Shinning of Bitspower! I know one is anodized and the other shinny but the end result is hot!!


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> This is the purple that i find just beautiful
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the guys build log that i took this from http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/31214-wip-snefs-purple-chimera-completed/ He did say that it was Mayhems purple pastel.


this is Mayhem Raspberry Purple out of the box, No mix or add any dye

Its the right shade of the purple pastel
I dont know why pics seem blue


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> this is Mayhem Raspberry Purple out of the box, No mix or add any dye
> 
> Its the right shade of the purple pastel
> I dont know why pics seem blue


good to know, I thought you tweaked it a bit, lol

Also, Th0rn0, can you put in a recommendation for the pic for Raspberry Purple be fixed? I am sure this hasn't been the first time that this has come up


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Refilled loop with Mayhems Pastel White in PrimoChill acrylics. This Prodigy will be torn down shortly and my 7yr daughter & I will be rebuilding it as her new case with some components from her Lian Li PC-Q08 mini ITX.
> 
> Currently on the hunt for a new mini ITX case...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome! very clean!


----------



## Th0rn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> good to know, I thought you tweaked it a bit, lol
> 
> Also, Th0rn0, can you put in a recommendation for the pic for Raspberry Purple be fixed? I am sure this hasn't been the first time that this has come up


Will do, afaik Mick is already working on all the photos but I'll let him know.

As for the mixing of dyes, that's the only thing I'm not 100% on, however I can always just ask Mick lol. I have found the best thing to do is buy the base colors as well as a few extra shades and just experiment outside of the loop.

Also very nice build snef.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th0rn0*
> 
> Will do, afaik Mick is already working on all the photos but I'll let him know.
> 
> As for the mixing of dyes, that's the only thing I'm not 100% on, however I can always just ask Mick lol. I have found the best thing to do is buy the base colors as well as a few extra shades and just experiment outside of the loop.
> 
> Also very nice build snef.


Thanks

glad to se you in the Mayhem Familly

about mixing, im sure you will learn very fast, hope because i have a ot of mixing question, always try to make special color, just to be diferent


----------



## Th0rn0

Well as soon as I get some other things out of the way I'm definitely looking at getting some dyes together to test the mixing.


----------



## defiler2k

Do the dyes work with aurora? I tried the ring tail gold and it came out too blue so Im looking to try and make it darker almost black and was thinking of using dyes to get it where I need it to be. Otherwise Im going to have to switch it out for the black pastel.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Do the dyes work with aurora? I tried the ring tail gold and it came out too blue so Im looking to try and make it darker almost black and was thinking of using dyes to get it where I need it to be. Otherwise Im going to have to switch it out for the black pastel.


The color black is the absence of reflected light. The nano particles within Mayhems Aurora are designed to reflect light. It seems counter productive to try and have both.


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Part of the club finally yay!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Do the dyes work with aurora? I tried the ring tail gold and it came out too blue so Im looking to try and make it darker almost black and was thinking of using dyes to get it where I need it to be. Otherwise Im going to have to switch it out for the black pastel.


Dyes do work with aurora. Black is an interesting color to make as it is usually a dark purple color. Not sure the aurora will look too good that dark either.

Also, you know the aurora has a short life span right now right? It is intended for shows and photos so you shouldn't keep it in your system more than a couple months.. The pastel can last in your system 2-3 years and it is already colored black for you. I'd personally go that way.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Dyes do work with aurora. Black is an interesting color to make as it is usually a dark purple color. Not sure the aurora will look too good that dark either.
> 
> Also, you know the aurora has a short life span right now right? It is intended for shows and photos so you shouldn't keep it in your system more than a couple months.. The pastel can last in your system 2-3 years and it is already colored black for you. I'd personally go that way.


I was looking for a dark purple when I got the ring tail but mine came out as a blue with light purple tones. Hence why I'm thinking of darkening.

Im not planning on running aurora permanently on my system, this is for a showcase and an event next month. After that I'm flushing and moving to full pastel but I was wondering if I could get the dark purple I was looking for with dyes for the events otherwise I will just scrap the whole aurora idea and go full pastel from the start.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I was looking for a dark purple when I got the ring tail but mine came out as a blue with light purple tones. Hence why I'm thinking of darkening.
> 
> Im not planning on running aurora permanently on my system, this is for a showcase and an event next month. After that I'm flushing and moving to full pastel but I was wondering if I could get the dark purple I was looking for with dyes for the events otherwise I will just scrap the whole aurora idea and go full pastel from the start.


Ah, for the event, then you could probably try darkening it with some deep red and some blue probably. Someone else could perhaps comment on the coloring mix.

Still not sure how great the really dark aurora will look...but, could give it a shot since you already have the aurora.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah experiment with it a bit, I'm curious how it would look. It sounds cool, take pics!


----------



## doughsthoughts

I have been using pastel red in primofelx lrt for almost 6 months. Made the jump to primochill rigid tubing over the weekend with aurora tharsis red. I also polished all my csq blocks as clear as glass. Build is not finished more fans. Lil rewire and lots of leds are coming.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doughsthoughts*
> 
> I have been using pastel red in primofelx lrt for almost 6 months. Made the jump to primochill rigid tubing over the weekend with aurora tharsis red. I also polished all my csq blocks as clear as glass. Build is not finished more fans. Lil rewire and lots of leds are coming.


That looks brilliant! Let us know how long the Aurora lasts, you have a bit more in your loop than is recommended with Aurora.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Refilled loop with Mayhems Pastel White in PrimoChill acrylics. This Prodigy will be torn down shortly and my 7yr daughter & I will be rebuilding it as her new case with some components from her Lian Li PC-Q08 mini ITX.
> 
> Currently on the hunt for a new mini ITX case...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why tear down such a masterpiece? Exquisite!


----------



## Th0rn0

I've used aurora in multiple systems. One I was using the green aurora and that lasted 2 weeks for the suspension. I was using Compression fittings though. Although build I did was with the blue aurora. Going through 1/2 - 1/4 inch bards and using smaller tubing to get a really tight seal. That was built a year ago and it's still going, suspension and all. It's deffo lost some but you can still see it. But as mentioned Aurora is more of a show case coolant in it's current state.

Also you can mix dyes into aurora.


----------



## air tree

Anything i should know or do before using mayhems pastel? I'm using acrylic tubing.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Anything i should know or do before using mayhems pastel? I'm using acrylic tubing.


Yes, you're obligated to post pics in the mayhems users club.









In all seriousness no, mayhems pastel is really stable. It's got corrosion inhibitors, biocides, and surfactants already in it. So no, there really isn't anything special you need to do with it, or know before putting in your loop.


----------



## air tree

Oh ok then! I will be posting here as soon as i get my pc ready and as soon as there is a R-290X waterblock Haha!


----------



## Th0rn0

Nothing special is needed, just post some pics afterwards


----------



## siffonen

Been messing with some mayhems dyes, goal was to make nvidia-pastel


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Been messing with some mayhems dyes, goal was to make nvidia-pastel


Not bad. Looks pretty close to it.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kipsofthemud*
> 
> Part of the club finally yay!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good. I was going for that color with my buddies build, but decided to go with UV Green Dye.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th0rn0*
> 
> I've used aurora in multiple systems. One I was using the green aurora and that lasted 2 weeks for the suspension. I was using Compression fittings though. Although build I did was with the blue aurora. Going through 1/2 - 1/4 inch bards and using smaller tubing to get a really tight seal. That was built a year ago and it's still going, suspension and all. It's deffo lost some but you can still see it. But as mentioned Aurora is more of a show case coolant in it's current state.
> 
> Also you can mix dyes into aurora.


Yeah I have had my rig running 24/7 for a week testing and benching a couple of things and I did notice some suspension on the compression fittings there is a bit of a buildup there, and some close to the o rings on my supremacy. nothing too major really unlike when I forgot to remove the jet plate on the supremacy and had so much of it that the fluid was not making it through the channels. I will probably flush the components before the show next month if it gets too bad and I don't switch out to pastel. But as of now it does not bother me.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Why tear down such a masterpiece? Exquisite!


Thanks! Daughter gets what daughter wants and maybe this will get her really interested in computers and custom builds








I'm tossing around some ideas and thinking maybe I'll remove the angled Bitspower fittings and go with more complex acrylic bends, although that could take away the clean lines and possibly make the inside very busy...

Anyhoo, this gives me an opportunity to do two ITX acrylic builds once I decide on my next case. It's all about the journey, right?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Thanks! Daughter gets what daughter wants and maybe this will get her really interested in computers and custom builds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm tossing around some ideas and thinking maybe I'll remove the angled Bitspower fittings and go with more complex acrylic bends, although that could take away the clean lines and possibly make the inside very busy...
> 
> Anyhoo, this gives me an opportunity to do two ITX acrylic builds once I decide on my next case. It's all about the journey, right?


LOL I know what you mean. My 2yr. old girl is becoming quite a diva. I suppose once you've completed a build you're always going to want to do something more. So many options, so exciting!


----------



## Th0rn0

@kimoswabi What about a parvuum systems mini ITX case? They are so nice.


----------



## suwit hrc thai

RED ROG GAME


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suwit hrc thai*
> 
> RED ROG GAME


That... is... brilliant....


----------



## cyphon

Saw that build in the acrylic bending thread. It is freaking awesome! The other thread had pics with some babes which made it even better looking


----------



## Th0rn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suwit hrc thai*
> 
> RED ROG GAME


That's amazing. Wanting my next build to have some acrylic tubing.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th0rn0*
> 
> That's amazing. Wanting my next build to have some acrylic tubing.


I have a love hate relationship with acrylic tubes right now.

Love the looks
Hate the pain in the butt it is to work with at times


----------



## Th0rn0

yea it seems like a really PITA to work with.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th0rn0*
> 
> yea it seems like a really PITA to work with.


I would have to agree that it looks good but a bit of a PITA to get set up


----------



## NRD

First loop ever, Mayhems pastel green. I'm waiting for white leds to come in stock at Daz for the block and top of the res, so for now I just grabbed some green ones. Temps are looking outstanding on my 780


----------



## Th0rn0

why have you got a gap between the fans and the rad?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th0rn0*
> 
> why have you got a gap between the fans and the rad?


The fan adapters are to help eliminate the fans "deadzone." It is supposed to help the fans perform better.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NRD*
> 
> First loop ever, Mayhems pastel green. I'm waiting for white leds to come in stock at Daz for the block and top of the res, so for now I just grabbed some green ones. Temps are looking outstanding on my 780
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why you not wc the CPU?


----------



## skywalker311

I thought the same thing!


----------



## NRD

I didn't feel the need to at the time I was planning the loop. My Scythe Mine2 keeps the 2500k under 60C @ 4.7Ghz 1.4V, and that's just fine for me atm. I also need to let my wallet recoup







CPU block and another rad will be added eventually, probably when I upgrade from Sandy bridge and my 600t. I really just wanted the loop to allow me to OC the 780 as far as it will go, and it sure has. Earlier today I played a couple hours of BF3 @ 1293/3175 1.269v and my core never got higher than 36C and that was briefly, most of the time it was sitting at 33-34C which I'm just astounded by. I checked VRM temps with IR from back of PCB and couldn't find anywhere hotter than ~52C and my water/air delta never rose above 7C


----------



## royalkilla408

I have a question. I have the pastel red color for couple of months now (about 4-5). The color of the pastel red is not the same anymore. It looks purple or dark purple now. Is something wrong with my water? It use to be nice red but not anymore.


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royalkilla408*
> 
> I have a question. I have the pastel red color for couple of months now (about 4-5). The color of the pastel red is not the same anymore. It looks purple or dark purple now. Is something wrong with my water? It use to be nice red but not anymore.


Have you used a different color before this? If so , have you flushed it really well to get all the color out? Have you used any additives?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royalkilla408*
> 
> I have a question. I have the pastel red color for couple of months now (about 4-5). The color of the pastel red is not the same anymore. It looks purple or dark purple now. Is something wrong with my water? It use to be nice red but not anymore.


This is not normal. It shouldn't color change unless you dye it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kipsofthemud*
> 
> Have you used a different color before this? If so , have you flushed it really well to get all the color out? Have you used any additives?


This is possible if you had dyed your system before draining and didn't flush everything out. Wouldn't expect it to take months though. Some additives may take the longer time to kick in.

Is it consistently colored or in specific places? Have you tested pH? What tube are you using? Can you post some pics of it (before and after perhaps)?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royalkilla408*
> 
> I have a question. I have the pastel red color for couple of months now (about 4-5). The color of the pastel red is not the same anymore. It looks purple or dark purple now. Is something wrong with my water? It use to be nice red but not anymore.


I'm experiencing the same thing here. I used deep red dye before and I tought I flushed my loop well but it doesn't seems to be...

I bought a new bottle of concentrate and I will soon re-flush my loop and will make sure that nothing is still in the loop.


----------



## royalkilla408

The thing is that I never used color before. This is my first time using colored water. I've only used distiller water. It's gonna get flushed anyways because I'm upgrading soon. Just seems weird.


----------



## defiler2k

So I added some of the deep red and and dark blue to my aurora and now its where I wanted it. The coolant its self is a very deep purple and the effect is still there. Now my only concern is that the gold particles are adhering to the tube walls for some reason, I used Primochill Advanced LTR and now i literally have a coat of gold on the top part of my tubing.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I added some of the deep red and and dark blue to my aurora and now its where I wanted it. The coolant its self is a very deep purple and the effect is still there. Now my only concern is that the gold particles are adhering to the tube walls for some reason, I used Primochill Advanced LTR and now i literally have a coat of gold on the top part of my tubing.


What all you have in your loop? And what pump/pumps?


----------



## bowmanvmi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> You can still use the Blue LEDs in the XSPC block and it shouldn't kill the UV effect. It doesnt in mine.


I love this color! Is there any Mayhem dye/concentrate on the blue spectrum that has this much pop? I'm looking to use both a green dye and a blue dye and was a similar UV effect (or as loud as possible). Thanks!


----------



## YeAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I added some of the deep red and and dark blue to my aurora and now its where I wanted it. The coolant its self is a very deep purple and the effect is still there. Now my only concern is that the gold particles are adhering to the tube walls for some reason, I used Primochill Advanced LTR and now i literally have a coat of gold on the top part of my tubing.


Can you post a pic please of tube and loop?


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowmanvmi*
> 
> I love this color! Is there any Mayhem dye/concentrate on the blue spectrum that has this much pop? I'm looking to use both a green dye and a blue dye and was a similar UV effect (or as loud as possible). Thanks!


Mayhems has a clear UV blue coolant. Not sure about opaque ones. You would prolly have to get the UV white and add blue and purple to get the color you want.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YeAz*
> 
> Can you post a pic please of tube and loop?


Here is a picture of the line with the gold layer.



Here is a closeup of the reservoir to show the color layers, its dark but it still has the effect which is what I was after. Now i need to redo my lighting to ensure that everything is looking great.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What all you have in your loop? And what pump/pumps?




So I have two Swiftech MCP655s
EK Supremacy Copper plexi block (no jet plate)
EK GTX 770 plexi copper block (x2)
XSPC AX480 (x2) - I will replace these with the new EK coolstream 480's.
10ft of primochill Advanced LTR
Mayhem Aurora Ring Tail concentrate x2


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Here is a closeup of the reservoir to show the color layers, its dark but it still has the effect which is what I was after. Now i need to redo my lighting to ensure that everything is looking great.


Looks great and love the color combo! How long before you started to notice the particles starting to stick to the tubing? Did you turn off your computer at any long duration or has it been running 24/7?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> 
> 
> So I have two Swiftech MCP655s
> EK Supremacy Copper plexi block (no jet plate)
> EK GTX 770 plexi copper block (x2)
> XSPC AX480 (x2) - I will replace these with the new EK coolstream 480's.
> 10ft of primochill Advanced LTR
> Mayhem Aurora Ring Tail concentrate x2


Th0rn0 May need to verify, but I think you are in the high range of components and therefor restriction than is recommended for aurora.

And are 2 pumps ok? ?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Th0rn0 May need to verify, but I think you are in the high range of components and therefor restriction than is recommended for aurora.
> 
> And are 2 pumps ok? ?


I checked the aurora page and setups with dual MCP655 are ok, both running on max shouldn't pose an issue.
If I look at the flow of coolant out of the tube it is running at very high speed so It is not a loss of pressure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Looks great and love the color combo! How long before you started to notice the particles starting to stick to the tubing? Did you turn off your computer at any long duration or has it been running 24/7?


I left town for a couple of days and had the rig in my shop off for 2 days, when I come back and power it back on I notice the particles sticking. I was redoing the lights on the case and noticed that on the top of the reservoir (basically the line where the coolant sits has the gold particles stuck to it also like a ring where the coolant ends and the empty gap between the top of the res starts. Also just noticed that the particles are sticking to the top half of the tube not all the way around. I think im going to pull a line and cut it to see if it is that the tubing has any issues like plasticizer.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Just finished my first watercooled build with Pastel Blue Berry coolant and it looks pretty sweet if I do say so myself


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> Just finished my first watercooled build with Pastel Blue Berry coolant and it looks pretty sweet if I do say so myself


Yeah that's nice looking! Good work!


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah that's nice looking! Good work!


Like how you mounted your reservoir.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Thanks guys!








Just gotta work on modding the side panel to accompany it, I might look at maybe putting it on hinges


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> Just finished my first watercooled build with Pastel Blue Berry coolant and it looks pretty sweet if I do say so myself


I really like the color will not fit with the theme of my build but that is a nice look with your mobo


----------



## cyphon

Good work Eskimo. Looks great

Personally I'd darken the blue coolant a little bit to match the heat sinks, but still looks good as is


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Thanks guys








Yeah I was thinking about darkening the blue a bit, but I'm worried about over doing it and making it look bad haha


----------



## Th0rn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Th0rn0 May need to verify, but I think you are in the high range of components and therefor restriction than is recommended for aurora.
> 
> And are 2 pumps ok? ?


No you should be fine. just dont put the pumps on full blast.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I was thinking about darkening the blue a bit, but I'm worried about over doing it and making it look bad haha


1 drop at a time and you should be ok


----------



## Th0rn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I checked the aurora page and setups with dual MCP655 are ok, both running on max shouldn't pose an issue.
> If I look at the flow of coolant out of the tube it is running at very high speed so It is not a loss of pressure.
> I left town for a couple of days and had the rig in my shop off for 2 days, when I come back and power it back on I notice the particles sticking. I was redoing the lights on the case and noticed that on the top of the reservoir (basically the line where the coolant sits has the gold particles stuck to it also like a ring where the coolant ends and the empty gap between the top of the res starts. Also just noticed that the particles are sticking to the top half of the tube not all the way around. I think im going to pull a line and cut it to see if it is that the tubing has any issues like plasticizer.


Is it cold at all in your shop? Have it run for a few days and see if they particles loosen up, might just have settled.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> Just finished my first watercooled build with Pastel Blue Berry coolant and it looks pretty sweet if I do say so myself


Awesome color scheme, very vibrant.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 1 drop at a time and you should be ok


Yup one drop, give it 5 mins to fully run through the loop and mix, repeat. I say 5 mins, but you could get away with less. But you dont want to add too much. Ideally you want to mix your coolant outside of the loop but if that's not a option you can mix it in a working loop.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

So which should I get, a little bottle of regular blue dye, or ocean blue dye?

Edit: I'm thinking of getting it to a nice Royal Blue colour if that helps


----------



## Th0rn0

Not 100% on the mixing yet, but I'd get some regular blue and then some white.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> So which should I get, a little bottle of regular blue dye, or ocean blue dye?
> 
> Edit: I'm thinking of getting it to a nice Royal Blue colour if that helps


You want something similar to the colour of the coolant in my Stacker?
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4170-1.jpg.html

I'll be posting a similar but slightly less dark and less pastel one later today.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You want something similar to the colour of the coolant in my Stacker?
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4170-1.jpg.html
> 
> I'll be posting a similar but slightly less dark and less pastel one later today.


What did you use to achieve that color? That is a very nice color.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

That's a beautiful colour! Yeah something like that, maybe a touch lighter


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> What did you use to achieve that color? That is a very nice color.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> That's a beautiful colour! Yeah something like that, maybe a touch lighter


I started off white with. Then started adding deep blue and purple. Probably 4 drops of blue to each drop of purple. You should be able to use your current colour though then just add deep blue and purple. Without the purple it is a much flatter looking blue. It does take a lot of dye though.


----------



## lowfat

Here is the blue coolant from my other system. It is a heavily diluted pastel. The white pastel just allows me to control the shade of the coolant a bit more.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4262-1.jpg.html


----------



## stickg1

I want an EK CPU block to match my EK 680 block. It looks so nice with the mayhems running through it.

I've put my custom color pastel project on hold. I have a bunch of tubing too so going to redo the loop as well when I get around to it. I've been working a lot lately, about 60 hours a week. Trying to stash some money away so I can get a few new components to play with when I redo the loop! That's the plan anyway.


----------



## Th0rn0

Might see if I can put together a chart that shows the colors and the amount of dye needed. Seems like a recurring question.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Here is the blue coolant from my other system. It is a heavily diluted pastel. The white pastel just allows me to control the shade of the coolant a bit more.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4262-1.jpg.html


That's a sweet rig dude!







What motherboard is that? Did you paint it?


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> That's a sweet rig dude!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What motherboard is that? Did you paint it?


Looks like a Gigabyte but I could very well be wrong


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> That's a sweet rig dude!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What motherboard is that? Did you paint it?


It is a Gigabyte z87x-ud5h. And I've pulled off all the logos and painted some of the trim pieces.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It is a Gigabyte z87x-ud5h. And I've pulled off all the logos and painted some of the trim pieces.


Looks nice and clean! I'm thinking of doing that with my MSI Z77 Mpower.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th0rn0*
> 
> Might see if I can put together a chart that shows the colors and the amount of dye needed. Seems like a recurring question.


Yeah how about a set of 350 color samples similar to a paint store,


----------



## kpoeticg

Has anybody here used or seen any pics of a XSPC Photon res with any color Pastel in it?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Has anybody here used or seen any pics of a XSPC Photon res with any color Pastel in it?


Not sure if your'd get the full effect of the photon. The Pastel is pretty opaque and doesn't let much light through


----------



## kpoeticg

I know for sure i wouldn't get the full effect. I'm curious if I'll get ANY effect at all. I still like the photon for the build quality with the full glass tube and solid bracket. But I'm curious if I'll get any of the LED effect at all or if it'll just look like a normal tube res. Even maybe if choose to go with some UV in my Pastel and i put a UV LED in the Photon. Would the Pastel even let the LED shine through?

Also, does anybody have any idea how a Mayhems Red UV would work in a Rit Dye Bath for dyeing some fan blades? Don't really wanna try it without having an idea.


----------



## snef

I didnt try the photon but test pastel with some lightning effect
Im sure photon with pastel you will have no light effect
Same thing as no light, pastel is opact and dont let pass any light
Make a test before
Take a small water bottle, fill with pastel, and use any light behind like a phone camera flash

You will see


----------



## kpoeticg

I believe you. That's why i asked in here. I'm going for a color scheme similar to your Red Poseidon with the RIVE BE. Was thinking about either red tubing with white pastel or white tubing with uv red pastel and the led in the photon. Too bad.... Thanx for lettin me know so i don't plan my build wrong

If Mayhem's ever around and read's this, or some1 with similar knowledge, I would still love to know thoughts about adding his UV Red to a powder dye bath for dyeing my fan blades. Dunno if the mixed chemicals would be a bad thing.


----------



## snef

Red tubing with white pastel reluts a little bit pink
Choose a very opact tubing


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanks for the tip. I figured the white wouldn't really show through the tubing. So it would be red tubing with white fittings and white pastel in the res. It was just an idea though, still trying to plan out my whole color scheme. I know i want red and white with a little black or grey, just not sure how i'm gonna pull it together yet though. I'd also like to give acrylic tubing a shot though too. I know they make colored acrylic tubing but that's alot of work for colored tubing. This is my first mod, I'm sure you know alot better than me about trying to pull together a color scheme in your head with sleeving, paintjob, and watercooling


----------



## air tree

How do you guys think i could get a very light like ocean blue liquid? To the point where light goes through it.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well, you could water down some Blueberry Pastel if you want Pastel. Or you could just get some Blue X1. That's transparent.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> How do you guys think i could get a very light like ocean blue liquid? To the point where light goes through it.


X1 Clear + Ocean Blue dye...slowly add dye drops to achieve the shade to your liking


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well, you could water down some Blueberry Pastel if you want Pastel. Or you could just get some Blue X1. That's transparent.


I wouldn't dilute it too much because the ratio of the the anti corrosive and biocide is also diluted and you will probably need to add some of your own. It will also probably look terrible to be translucent.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> X1 Clear + Ocean Blue dye...slowly add dye drops to achieve the shade to your liking


This is what I'd do


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I wouldn't dilute it too much because the ratio of the the anti corrosive and biocide is also diluted and you will probably need to add some of your own. It will also probably look terrible to be translucent.
> This is what I'd do


Yeah, it's just the way he said "to the point that it's translucent" that it sounded like he wanted to make a Pastel or Aurora see through. That's why i said watering it down is all i could think of. I can't think of a reason to do that instead of using X1 though


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, it's just the way he said "to the point that it's translucent" that it sounded like he wanted to make a Pastel or Aurora see through. That's why i said watering it down is all i could think of. I can't think of a reason to do that instead of using X1 though


Yeah lol

Just counter productive to try to make opaque solutions translucent


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah lol
> 
> Just counter productive to try to make opaque solutions translucent


Dunno, swapping it out for a UV cathode then using mayhems UV pastels might yield an interesting effect. Maybe some glowing stuffs. UV light tends to penetrate much better than any of the visible light spectrum.


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Has anybody here used or seen any pics of a XSPC Photon res with any color Pastel in it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Dunno, swapping it out for a UV cathode then using mayhems UV pastels might yield an interesting effect. Maybe some glowing stuffs. UV light tends to penetrate much better than any of the visible light spectrum.


Not on the XSPC Photon res, you could mod a different tube res to get a cathode in there, but the Photon's is not swapable like that.

Also no on showing thru the pastel, kpoeticg.


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx for confirming that for me. I already didn't think it would b4 i asked. But I'm convinced for sure.


----------



## akira749

I finally finished the Ergo Proxy with Mayhems X1 UV Emerald Green!!!


----------



## lowfat




----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I finally finished the Ergo Proxy with Mayhems X1 UV Emerald Green!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm not usually a fan of UV builds but this looks absolutely fantastic!


----------



## theseekeroffun

I still have a lot do, but I really like the purple................


----------



## whitie63

How often do you have to clean your blocks and pump out using Mayhems and does it build up affecting temps ???


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm not usually a fan of UV builds but this looks absolutely fantastic!


Me either but I agree. One of the best uv builds I've seen in a long time!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> How often do you have to clean your blocks and pump out using Mayhems and does it build up affecting temps ???


Which product are you asking about?

Aurora - couple months tops, as it is mainly a fluent for special events
Pastel - 2-3 years
X1 - not sure but should be fine for at least a year

They have biocides and anti corrosive in them already. The only one that may have build up is if the aurora particles get stuck in the loop and build up. Again that is more of a special event fluid and isn't intended for prolonged use right now. Pastel and X1 you are pretty much good to go and I haven't had nor seen any one have issues with them


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I'm not usually a fan of UV builds but this looks absolutely fantastic!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Me either but I agree. One of the best uv builds I've seen in a long time!


Thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> I still have a lot do, but I really like the purple................
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!! Is the purple your creation from a mixture of dyes or is it X1 Purple?


----------



## royalkilla408

Hey guys. I'm changing my tubing to a clear tubing for my next build. What is a best clear tubing to use? If they are all the same, which one do you guys recommend for the price? Thanks!


----------



## akira749

Primochill Advanced LRT is the trend now since this one generally doesn't have plasticizer issues and have a nice quality.


----------



## managerman

Finished bending tubes over the weekend!!







I was able to fill up the systems with Mayhems Pastel Orange. WOW! very happy!







Mayhems! I was able to leak test all day yesterday and had ZERO leaks







I am very happy with the Primochill Acrylic tubing and Ghost fittings...great stuff to work with!

Here are a few preliminary pictures....I ordered another bottle of the Pastel Orange concentrate today so I can top off the reservoirs.

-M


----------



## Solonowarion

Nice work man! What cpu block is that.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *managerman*
> 
> Finished bending tubes over the weekend!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to fill up the systems with Mayhems Pastel Orange. WOW! very happy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems! I was able to leak test all day yesterday and had ZERO leaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am very happy with the Primochill Acrylic tubing and Ghost fittings...great stuff to work with!
> 
> Here are a few preliminary pictures....I ordered another bottle of the Pastel Orange concentrate today so I can top off the reservoirs.
> 
> -M
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome build! Very clean and neat!!!

Acrylic bends beautifully done!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Nice work man! What cpu block is that.


It's a Swiftech so I assume it's an Apogee HD


----------



## managerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Nice work man! What cpu block is that.


Swiftech Apogee HD...and Thanks!

-M


----------



## ZnJ

Wow, great bends!


----------



## Kenjiwing

Some bends from my WIP build


----------



## NBAasDOGG

First i was on Mayhams UV blue, now on bloody, bloody, bloody red











NOW:


----------



## managerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I finally finished the Ergo Proxy with Mayhems X1 UV Emerald Green!!!


Love the bend work!!! Nicely done!

-M


----------



## rickyman0319

can I use this coolant on Primochill advance lrt tubing or not?


----------



## stickg1

That orange is great, just throw some purple in there and you got a solid Clemson build. Go Tigers!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> can I use this coolant on Primochill advance lrt tubing or not?


Yes you can. That is probably the recommended now.

The older version, PrimoChill PRO LRT, was the one that had plasticizer and had issues.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That orange is great, just throw some purple in there and you got a solid Clemson build. Go Tigers!


Clemson, boooooooooooooooooo!

I am a GT grad and my gf went to South Carolina, lol. We do not like Clemson so much


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Nice!! Is the purple your creation from a mixture of dyes or is it X1 Purple?


Thanks, just plain Mayhem's purple.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> Thanks, just plain Mayhem's purple.


Thanks I really like the shade!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *managerman*
> 
> Finished bending tubes over the weekend!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to fill up the systems with Mayhems Pastel Orange. WOW! very happy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems! I was able to leak test all day yesterday and had ZERO leaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am very happy with the Primochill Acrylic tubing and Ghost fittings...great stuff to work with!
> 
> Here are a few preliminary pictures....I ordered another bottle of the Pastel Orange concentrate today so I can top off the reservoirs.
> 
> -M
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't usually +rep for build pics but that's absolutely breathtaking!! Great Job


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Clemson, boooooooooooooooooo!
> 
> I am a GT grad and my gf went to South Carolina, lol. We do not like Clemson so much


Haha, yeah I'm used to it. The majority of my friends in high school ended up at South Carolina. But I chose Clemson.


----------



## Ovrclck

Hey everyone, I'm looking to go pastel UV red. What would be the best method? Sorry if this may have been asked already.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Hey everyone, I'm looking to go pastel UV red. What would be the best method? Sorry if this may have been asked already.


Pastel Red with some UV Pink dye.

The UV Pink dye will stain your tubes/blocks


----------



## managerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I don't usually +rep for build pics but that's absolutely breathtaking!! Great Job


Thank you very much! I sure appreciate the nice comments!!

-M


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Pastel Red with some UV Pink dye.
> 
> The UV Pink dye will stain your tubes/blocks


I was afraid you would say Pink. Would UV clear give it a similar look?


----------



## kpoeticg

No, UV clear won't glow red. I might get a bottle of Mayhems Blue Dye when you order the UV Pink. The Blue will balance the Pink back into Red. If that's not the right way to do it, some1 else chime in. I know that's how you make the UV Blood Red


----------



## Joyride

I used the UV oil black color before and it wasn't dark enough and I hated the red tint. Would adding pastel black to that color darken it enough or would I risk losing the UV effect? I'm going for a red/black build but my fittings are red and I want to go with something as black and UV reactive as possible.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I was afraid you would say Pink. Would UV clear give it a similar look?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> No, UV clear won't glow red. I might get a bottle of Mayhems Blue Dye when you order the UV Pink. The Blue will balance the Pink back into Red. If that's not the right way to do it, some1 else chime in. I know that's how you make the UV Blood Red


the uv clear glows blue so it may be a weird look in uv...
The uv pink shouldn't make your red turn too light. Could always get a little deep red dye too to darken it. Some blue May help too but too much will purple it up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joyride*
> 
> I used the UV oil black color before and it wasn't dark enough and I hated the red tint. Would adding pastel black to that color darken it enough or would I risk losing the UV effect? I'm going for a red/black build but my fittings are red and I want to go with something as black and UV reactive as possible.


I wouldn't add pastel to anything. If anything you'd want to start with the pastel and make it uv with the dye


----------



## iandroo888

so a few months ago, i had mentioned about red and blue "blood red" mix dye had dyed my tubing. and i kept losing my red dye due to possibilities like pH change, etc.

since i got a new pump (mcp655), i decided to change the tubing as well. i was curious on if it was the tubing that was dyed or something, so i used something scraped the colored area.. it actually comes off ? rubbing the stuff that comes off makes it seemed like dried dye?



ideas?  tubing is made by duralene

not by just scratching... since the tubing is out, im just bending the tubing around.. and i can see cracks being made.. then with i tap the end to the table, the "Dye" comes out..

now im just running my loop with pure water and a silver coil


----------



## kpoeticg

It sounds like plasticizer. Mayhem gives a disclaimer EVERYWHERE that he talks about UV RED/UV PINK that it stains absolutely everything it comes in contact with. Also, don't know if you were running a Pastel, he also gives a disclaimer to make sure you're running plasticizer free tubing. I know Duralene was one of the best tubing for a while because it takes a while before plasticizer starts leeching, but it still happens, just slower. If it's plasticizer, Primochill Advanced LRT will fix the issue in the future. Any UV Red contains UV Pink though and it's still gonna stain.


----------



## iandroo888

im not using UV T_T just plain red dye D: and diluted blue


----------



## kpoeticg

Sorry, thought you said UV. Have you had the courage to check your blocks yet? =\
I'm far from an expert, and I'm sure when other people are around you'll get better help than I have to give. You said something about your PH Levels. Maybe that was caused from corrosion.... Either that or it's a ton of plasticizer. How long was that running between flushing your loop? And what metals do you have in your loop?


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Sorry, thought you said UV. Have you had the courage to check your blocks yet? =\
> I'm far from an expert, and I'm sure when other people are around you'll get better help than I have to give. You said something about your PH Levels. Maybe that was caused from corrosion.... Either that or it's a ton of plasticizer. How long was that running between flushing your loop? And what metals do you have in your loop?


cpu block is clean. looked at it while i did the new tubing.

what metals? iunoe xspc rs360 and xspc rasa block. and silver kill coil. u tell me =X


----------



## kpoeticg

Well your blocks fine, and both your block and rad are copper so it doesn't sound like corrosion. I'm pretty sure using a kill coil with mayhems is a bad idea. He adds everything needed in his coolants. Unless you have Nickel or Aluminum fittings u wouldn't need a coil anyway cuz your loops all copper. I'm suprised your tubing looks like that and your blocks still looking good. I'd just buy some Primochill Advanced LRT, and get rid of the kill coil. I'm not experienced enough to say exactly what it is, but it's either just a nasty buildup of plasticizer that you got lucky and it didn't build up in your block, or something funky happened with the Kill Coil + Mayhems.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Hey everyone, I'm looking to go pastel UV red. What would be the best method? Sorry if this may have been asked already.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I was afraid you would say Pink. Would UV clear give it a similar look?


UV Red coolant does not exist. All UV red coolants are red dye with UV pink dye, and the color pigment achieved depends on how much red dye / UV pink dye used. The more UV pink you use the more it will glow, but the pinker it will be when UV light is used. Finding the right balance can be difficult.

UV reactive means the color pigment glows. There is no universal UV reactive dye that will make the color it's added to glow. Clear UV glows blue when 3xposed to UV light, so to answer your question no, clear uv with red dye will not make it glow UV red. It would make it an off red/purple color when exposed to UV light.

What's the specific color theme of your build?

If it's black/red you could go UV red tubing, with a pastel black coolant so that your reservoir, transparent waterblocks, etc. will be black, but the tubing will be UV red.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> so a few months ago, i had mentioned about red and blue "blood red" mix dye had dyed my tubing. and i kept losing my red dye due to possibilities like pH change, etc.
> 
> since i got a new pump (mcp655), i decided to change the tubing as well. i was curious on if it was the tubing that was dyed or something, so i used something scraped the colored area.. it actually comes off ? rubbing the stuff that comes off makes it seemed like dried dye?
> 
> 
> 
> ideas?  tubing is made by duralene
> 
> not by just scratching... since the tubing is out, im just bending the tubing around.. and i can see cracks being made.. then with i tap the end to the table, the "Dye" comes out..
> 
> now im just running my loop with pure water and a silver coil


This is almost certainly plasticizer. I had it in my old rig and it was fortunately only in my tubes and not blocks. Double check your fittings however to make sure that it didn't build up on them. I had some I had to clean out on the fittings
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well your blocks fine, and both your block and rad are copper so it doesn't sound like corrosion. I'm pretty sure using a kill coil with mayhems is a bad idea. He adds everything needed in his coolants. Unless you have Nickel or Aluminum fittings u wouldn't need a coil anyway cuz your loops all copper. I'm suprised your tubing looks like that and your blocks still looking good. I'd just buy some Primochill Advanced LRT, and get rid of the kill coil. I'm not experienced enough to say exactly what it is, but it's either just a nasty buildup of plasticizer that you got lucky and it didn't build up in your block, or something funky happened with the Kill Coil + Mayhems.


Yes do not use kill coil with mayhems unless you are just using the dye in DI water. X1, pastel, and so on already have the anticorosive and biocides.

People have had a lot of success with the PrimoChill advance, so yeah that is probably a recommended tube


----------



## iandroo888

im using pure water (from lab) + dye. which is reason why im using the silver coil. i dont think theres stuff added to the dye


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> UV Red coolant does not exist. All UV red coolants are red dye with UV pink dye, and the color pigment achieved depends on how much red dye / UV pink dye used. The more UV pink you use the more it will glow, but the pinker it will be when UV light is used. Finding the right balance can be difficult.
> 
> UV reactive means the color pigment glows. There is no universal UV reactive dye that will make the color it's added to glow. Clear UV glows blue when 3xposed to UV light, so to answer your question no, clear uv with red dye will not make it glow UV red. It would make it an off red/purple color when exposed to UV light.
> 
> What's the specific color theme of your build?
> 
> If it's black/red you could go UV red tubing, with a pastel black coolant so that your reservoir, transparent waterblocks, etc. will be black, but the tubing will be UV red.




Here's a quick pic of my current setup. The problem is I already bought 10ft of clear Advanced LRT. I'm open to any color suggestions. Thanks!


----------



## Th0rn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> How often do you have to clean your blocks and pump out using Mayhems and does it build up affecting temps ???


2 to 3 years at the very most. For aurora probably run it for a year until you get problems. This is the absolute maximum time it can be in the loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> can I use this coolant on Primochill advance lrt tubing or not?


yep, it's the recommended atm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> so a few months ago, i had mentioned about red and blue "blood red" mix dye had dyed my tubing. and i kept losing my red dye due to possibilities like pH change, etc.
> 
> since i got a new pump (mcp655), i decided to change the tubing as well. i was curious on if it was the tubing that was dyed or something, so i used something scraped the colored area.. it actually comes off ? rubbing the stuff that comes off makes it seemed like dried dye?
> 
> 
> 
> ideas?  tubing is made by duralene
> 
> not by just scratching... since the tubing is out, im just bending the tubing around.. and i can see cracks being made.. then with i tap the end to the table, the "Dye" comes out..
> 
> now im just running my loop with pure water and a silver coil


As previously stated, we have lots of disclaimers for the use of the coolant. Mike is currently working on some fixes for these issues, however all we can say really is get Primochill Advanced LRT tubing. I'd take the kill coil out if you were using Mayhems though.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a quick pic of my current setup. The problem is I already bought 10ft of clear Advanced LRT. I'm open to any color suggestions. Thanks!


Well, you could just get some Red (Pastel or X1) with no UV. Or get some UV Red and clean your blocks from time to time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> im using pure water (from lab) + dye. which is reason why im using the silver coil. i dont think theres stuff added to the dye


A kill coil's for mixing metals, I don't hear a biocide in there either. If you're gonna use a Mayhem Dye anyway, you might as well use a concentrate with the biocide and anti corrosive agents in it.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well, you could just get some Red (Pastel or X1) with no UV. Or get some UV Red and clean your blocks from time to time.


Thank you. I'll add that to my list of options.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> im using pure water (from lab) + dye. which is reason why im using the silver coil. i dont think theres stuff added to the dye


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well, you could just get some Red (Pastel or X1) with no UV. Or get some UV Red and clean your blocks from time to time.
> A kill coil's for mixing metals, I don't hear a biocide in there either. If you're gonna use a Mayhem Dye anyway, you might as well use a concentrate with the biocide and anti corrosive agents in it.


No, silver is indeed a biocide. Contact with silver prevents the cell membrane of microbes from absorbing oxygen, effectively suffocating them to death. This requires an active flow to function optimally, but it is indeed a biocide. In fact there's a "Soar Throat Relieving Spray" that consists of silver nanoparticles mixed into a flavored liquid. Mind you it only works if the soar throat is a result of a bacterial infection, but its a third party proof of concept.

Silver is actually bad for mixing metals. You're referring to a sacrificial anode. Mixing metals is an issue because of varying standard electrode potentials. Cathodic metals leach electrons from anodic metals, as the anode corrodes, the cathode becomes more anodic.

Silver is more cathodic than any standard metal you'll find in your loop


----------



## kpoeticg

Well as far as i understood, silver coil's aren't really used much anymore anyway because they tend to cause more problems than they fix. But yeah, i guess i got confused on that one. I don't even use Nickel in my loop =P Certainly no Silver


----------



## ZytheEKS

Au contraire, silver kill coils are used extensive by those who desire the best of the best performance from their loop. The actual performance drop of a coolant with liquid biocides and additives is negligible, but it is existent. I agree with you in avoiding the mixing of metals, but if one prefers dye with a coil for looks/performance then there isn't an inherent problem. All issues with the combo are caused by other presences in the loop


----------



## kpoeticg

Doesn't Pastel/Ice Dragon outperform Water?


----------



## Egami

Having looked around, am I correct in assuming that there is something inherently blue in the particles that lend a coolant its UV properties? I would be interested in finding a clear liquid that looks like ordinary distilled under normal lighting conditions and only "lights up" when subjected to blacklight.


----------



## kpoeticg

Then get some UV Clear......


----------



## iandroo888

now that i have a new pump (mcp655), i can consider the "thicker" coolants. but i liked the transparency a dye gives which is why i have been using pure water and mayhem's red dye with a diluted blue for a blood red color =X

its just weird that the dye eventually disappears and results in a "sediment" in the tubing of the dye


----------



## kpoeticg

It's not the dye. It's the tubing. When the plasticizer forms, that gets dyed. Advanced LRT should solve that problem for u. You could still get a Transparent X1.


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Then get some UV Clear......


I would love to. Got a link?


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Doesn't Pastel/Ice Dragon outperform Water?


No it doesn't I think I remember reading that there's only like a degree Celsius of difference however


----------



## kpoeticg

Are you in the U.S? HERE
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> No it doesn't I think I remember reading that there's only like a degree Celsius of difference however


Wow, coulda sworn i read the opposite somewhere. Oh well...


----------



## Egami

I was looking for something that would be rather completely colourless than faintly blue but thanks regardless


----------



## kpoeticg

Well, it's dye. I was under the impression that it was mixable to be clear but only blue under UV. I'm sure somebody here's used it and will know better than me.

Yeah that link I gave u to FrozenCPU. The first pic is under UV Light and it's Blue. The 2nd Pic no UV and it's Clear...


----------



## iandroo888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It's not the dye. It's the tubing. When the plasticizer forms, that gets dyed. Advanced LRT should solve that problem for u. You could still get a Transparent X1.


whats difference between X1 and XT1

and sad about teh plasticizer.. i had high hopes for duralene =[


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Doesn't Pastel/Ice Dragon outperform Water?


No it doesn't. At idle it is within a degree or less of pure water. At full load it is typically 2-4 degrees warmer than DI Water. It is a nano fluid, which is why it has the opaque look, the long life span, and performs pretty close to pure water.

Mayhem has been doing a lot more work with the nano fluids since releasing pastel as It has been theorized that nano fluids can produce better heat transfer than water.

Recently, before turning over the forum thread to Th0rn0, he posted some promising results showing a recent test where the nano fluid could possibly out perform water in heat transfer. He also commented that there are several things they have to work out with it before it will be ready for production (this could take a couple years unfortunately).

Until then.......we wait......


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iandroo888*
> 
> whats difference between X1 and XT1
> 
> and sad about teh plasticizer.. i had high hopes for duralene =[


XT1's for SubZero cooling like LN2. It has stuff in it that stops the water from turning to slush. Like antifreeze.
Duralene was one of the top recommended for non-plasticizer before Advanced LRT came out. But it was never a non-plasticizer tubing. It just happens slower in Duralene.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> No it doesn't. At idle it is within a degree or less of pure water. At full load it is typically 2-4 degrees warmer than DI Water. It is a nano fluid, which is why it has the opaque look, the long life span, and performs pretty close to pure water.
> 
> Mayhem has been doing a lot more work with the nano fluids since releasing pastel as It has been theorized that nano fluids can produce better heat transfer than water.
> 
> Recently, before turning over the forum thread to Th0rn0, he posted some promising results showing a recent test where the nano fluid could possibly out perform water in heat transfer. He also commented that there are several things they have to work out with it before it will be ready for production (this could take a couple years unfortunately).
> 
> Until then.......we wait......


I guess I must've misinterpreted something I read. Thanx for clearing that up. =)


----------



## cookiesowns

Hi Mayhems.

For the pastel concentrate is 750ML of DI the optimal dillution amount or should I go slightly higher concentrate say 600ML to get a deeper color? Would that be too bold or?
This is with blueberry blue. I want like a light bold blue similar to the SP120 blue rings.


----------



## kpoeticg

You could always grab a bottle of dye with the Pastel in case you wanna make the color bolder


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookiesowns*
> 
> Hi Mayhems.
> 
> For the pastel concentrate is 750ML of DI the optimal dillution amount or should I go slightly higher concentrate say 600ML to get a deeper color? Would that be too bold or?
> This is with blueberry blue. I want like a light bold blue similar to the SP120 blue rings.


Adding only 600ml instead of 750ml won't do any difference in the color. Even from the pure concentrate liquid to the mixed full 1liter there's not much if not at all color difference.


----------



## Joyride

Has anyone tried to make the oil black color darker and more uv reactive? I was thinking about adding purple dye to darken it and then uv yellow/green to make it glow more.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookiesowns*
> 
> Hi Mayhems.
> 
> For the pastel concentrate is 750ML of DI the optimal dillution amount or should I go slightly higher concentrate say 600ML to get a deeper color? Would that be too bold or?
> This is with blueberry blue. I want like a light bold blue similar to the SP120 blue rings.


Should just about always use the 3:1 ratio on the mix. Less water will not change the color, as it is not a dye. More water makes it appear duller, but don't really recommend it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You could always grab a bottle of dye with the Pastel in case you wanna make the color bolder


This is the best way to get your color. You can start with some color, say red and then add like a deep red and a touch of red to it in order to darken it. Alternatively, you could start with the Ice White and dye it to the specific color you want. The white as a base gives you much more control to get a specific color.

If you have a certain color you want, then post a pic and someone can help with the dyes you will need


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Doesn't Pastel/Ice Dragon outperform Water?


Ice Dragon will perform better than distilled but not at the operating temperatures we use in watercooling. Near boiling temperatures it will actually perform a degree or two better than water.

Mayhems pastel is a heavily diluted nanofluid. I'd guess around 1:4 as strong as IDC. The dye itself also impact performance.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Ice Dragon will perform better than distilled but not at the operating temperatures we use in watercooling. Near boiling temperatures it will actually perform a degree or two better than water.
> 
> Mayhems pastel is a heavily diluted nanofluid. I'd guess around 1:4 as strong as IDC. The dye itself also impact performance.


forgot about the dilution between the two









My earlier post, I should have clarified that at the operating temperatures in PC watercooling, it is warmer than where DI water performs. At boiling, yes it is better. thanks for cleaning up, lol

However, the new stuff Mayhem is working on I believe still performs better at the operating temperatures that we see


----------



## kpoeticg

Wow, that's real interesting. The fact that Pastel was made in collaboration with Ice Dragon mislead me a bit i guess. But i guess it doesn't make much of a difference since the benefits over water that i read about are only at boiling temps. I know the dye changes things a bit. But i didn't know the Pastel White was less potent than Ice Dragons white.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> However, the new stuff Mayhem is working on I believe still performs better at the operating temperatures that we see


What new stuff are you referring to? Chameleon?


----------



## lowfat

IMO you shouldn't use undiluted Ice Dragon anyways. It stains pretty much all tubing and nickel.


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't use Nickel. But good to know. I still haven't picked the coolant for the loop I'm building so all my knowledge (or ignorance lol) is from what i read. I'm almost definitely gonna go with a Pastel, but still gotta figure out some stuff about my color scheme and how i'm gonna execute it between sleeving/coolant/tubing/paintjob


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wow, that's real interesting. The fact that Pastel was made in collaboration with Ice Dragon mislead me a bit i guess. But i guess it doesn't make much of a difference since the benefits over water that i read about are only at boiling temps. I know the dye changes things a bit. But i didn't know the Pastel White was less potent than Ice Dragons white.
> What new stuff are you referring to? Chameleon?


No, it doesn't have a name yet, Mayhem was just posting about it.

Chameleon changes color based on temp. So half your loop is 1 color and the other half is another, lol


----------



## kpoeticg

HAHA nice. I've only seen the name mentioned.


----------



## cookiesowns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Adding only 600ml instead of 750ml won't do any difference in the color. Even from the pure concentrate liquid to the mixed full 1liter there's not much if not at all color difference.


Ok. so I should just stick with the suggested mixing of 250 to 750? Would dumping a full 1LTR affect color density or the additives?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookiesowns*
> 
> Ok. so I should just stick with the suggested mixing of 250 to 750? Would dumping a full 1LTR affect color density or the additives?


Yep, stick with the suggested mixing.

If you mean putting 1liter instead of 750ml then no the color density won't really change but the additives yes. I mean it would not be critical but if you can, stay with the recommended ratio


----------



## cookiesowns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Yep, stick with the suggested mixing.
> 
> If you mean putting 1liter instead of 750ml then no the color density won't really change but the additives yes. I mean it would not be critical but if you can, stay with the recommended ratio


We'll see. What's the best way to flush loop? Usually for my own personal systems I just connect a clean tubing near the bottom and just let water drain out, then blow on it.

I figure i should just do the same thing flush a few times using DI, and then on the last drain, don't blow and just try to let all the water drain out, then fill her up with pastel.


----------



## kpoeticg

I flush with a pond pump and GE water filter.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookiesowns*
> 
> I figure i should just do the same thing flush a few times using DI, and then on the last drain, don't blow and just try to let all the water drain out, then fill her up with pastel.


It should be ok


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wow, that's real interesting. The fact that Pastel was made in collaboration with Ice Dragon mislead me a bit i guess. But i guess it doesn't make much of a difference since the benefits over water that i read about are only at boiling temps. I know the dye changes things a bit. But i didn't know the Pastel White was less potent than Ice Dragons white.
> What new stuff are you referring to? Chameleon?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> No, it doesn't have a name yet, Mayhem was just posting about it.
> 
> Chameleon changes color based on temp. So half your loop is 1 color and the other half is another, lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> HAHA nice. I've only seen the name mentioned.


Do a search on the OCN forum search bar for "Project Decimation"

That will give you all currently available info on Mayhems performance nano fluid. Fair warning, it's very exciting news, but there is VERY little of it, and likely won't be more for excess of over a year.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

hey everyone, i just purchased some UV emerald green coolant and was wondering if anyone has seen it in action or has pics. how does it compare to laser green under UV?

im putting in rigid tube this weekend, and decided to give this coolant a shot, mostly cause it said Limited Edition....

edit: nevermind then, went back a bit further and found this. perfect. thanks anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I finally finished the Ergo Proxy with Mayhems X1 UV Emerald Green!!!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> hey everyone, i just purchased some UV emerald green coolant and was wondering if anyone has seen it in action or has pics. how does it compare to laser green under UV?
> 
> im putting in rigid tube this weekend, and decided to give this coolant a shot, mostly cause it said Limited Edition....


I thought there was an english version of this vid, but it should be pretty self explanitory




It isn't the 'emerald green', but the difference is pretty similar


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> HAHA nice. I've only seen the name mentioned.


Here are some pics of Chameleon.





Then there is illusion, which is basically an oil that sits on top of the water in the res.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

hey thanks sir. i have laser green in my build now and i love it. my package just arrived, with the coolant, fittings and tubing. im stoked, but i have to wait for a while as i have rad screws and a few other mounting hardware items coming in.

if only i could sell my paintball stuff.....id upgrade to haswell and a 7 series card as well......oh well long live gtx670...

also, i see youre in Chicago, mind if i ask what part? i live literally 1 block from Microcenter.......
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I thought there was an english version of this vid, but it should be pretty self explanitory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It isn't the 'emerald green', but the difference is pretty similar


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Do a search on the OCN forum search bar for "Project Decimation"
> 
> That will give you all currently available info on Mayhems performance nano fluid. Fair warning, it's very exciting news, but there is VERY little of it, and likely won't be more for excess of over a year.


I did that search this morning b4 i went to sleep. I looked like 6 pages deep into the search and gave up =P
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Here are some pics of Chameleon.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then there is illusion, which is basically an oil that sits on top of the water in the res.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow that's pretty tight. I like it alot. Is there only one option on the Chameleon? If that Grey -> White -> Pink was a Grey -> White -> a deeper red, that would be perfect for my RIVE BE build =)


----------



## Liquid-Helix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> hey everyone, i just purchased some UV emerald green coolant and was wondering if anyone has seen it in action or has pics. how does it compare to laser green under UV?
> 
> im putting in rigid tube this weekend, and decided to give this coolant a shot, mostly cause it said Limited Edition....
> 
> edit: nevermind then, went back a bit further and found this. perfect. thanks anyway.


thats some really clean tubing job aces...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I did that search this morning b4 i went to sleep. I looked like 6 pages deep into the search and gave up =P
> Wow that's pretty tight. I like it alot. Is there only one option on the Chameleon? If that Grey -> White -> Pink was a Grey -> White -> a deeper red, that would be perfect for my RIVE BE build =)


Yeah, there isn't much on project decimation, but the basics are...shows potential for performing better than water, but has a few things that need to be worked out.

With chameleon, I think those are all different versions. And I think they are all from Mayhem directly, lol. the pruple(cold) to blue(hot) was from Mayhem and I think the pink (cold) to white (hot) was his daughters pc or somethin.


----------



## kpoeticg

OHHHH i see. I thought those were your pics =P Thanx for grabbin them for me then =)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> OHHHH i see. I thought those were your pics =P Thanx for grabbin them for me then =)


Lol, I wish I had access to the future products, but I am not that cool









Mayhem did send me some of the new UV Lime Green that I want to play with, but I was trying to finish my current WIP first, which has been taking a lot longer than anticipated, especially because I had 2 weeks straight where I was traveling


----------



## kpoeticg

My build/mod's been taking freakin forever too. I'm a real indecisive person though. It takes me forever to commit to a spot b4 i take a Dremel to my case =D


----------



## Jacoblab

With pastel, can I just mix it with distilled water from the grocery store or should I get something like this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14874/ex-liq-202/Alphacool_Ultra_Pure_Water_-_1000mL.html


----------



## slothiraptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacoblab*
> 
> With pastel, can I just mix it with distilled water from the grocery store or should I get something like this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14874/ex-liq-202/Alphacool_Ultra_Pure_Water_-_1000mL.html


you can use grocery store distilled water.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> you can use grocery store distilled water.


Yep. Hard to beat $2 and immediate access, lol


----------



## Aparition

Hi guys.

Will this tubing work with Mayhems Pastel?

https://www.gvc.net/p/5013/cleargreen-clear-phthalate-free-pvc-tubing
Tubing, Clear Phthalate Free PVC, 70A Durometer, 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD, 50 Ft. Long
Product Code: 101-188581
$26.27


----------



## Mayhem

erm -- i shall say no more than post a vid ->

http://vimeo.com/75988300

Guess who liquid dyes are in this advert .........

hahahaha

Must go im just here to tease. work is calling







.


----------



## akira749

Nice


----------



## cyphon

Lol awesome


----------



## theseekeroffun

Getting closer with the blue..............


----------



## Egami

That top blue is way nifty. It reminds of me old fashioned liquid ink.


----------



## kpoeticg

What white tubing did u use? I just read through your whole build log and u only mentioned the norprene black

I've been considering Pastel Red with White Tubing or Pastel White with Red Tubing but i feel like either one will end up Pink =\


----------



## theseekeroffun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> What white tubing did u use? I just read through your whole build log and u only mentioned the norprene black
> 
> I've been considering Pastel Red with White Tubing or Pastel White with Red Tubing but i feel like either one will end up Pink =\


Primochill Advanced LRT.


----------



## kpoeticg

Wow that keeps it's color nicely. Thanx for the reply


----------



## managerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I don't usually +rep for build pics but that's absolutely breathtaking!! Great Job


Thanks!! Glad you liked it!









-M


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *managerman*
> 
> Finished bending tubes over the weekend!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to fill up the systems with Mayhems Pastel Orange. WOW! very happy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems! I was able to leak test all day yesterday and had ZERO leaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am very happy with the Primochill Acrylic tubing and Ghost fittings...great stuff to work with!
> 
> Here are a few preliminary pictures....I ordered another bottle of the Pastel Orange concentrate today so I can top off the reservoirs.
> 
> -M
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's like a piece of art. Probably the best bends I've seen. Well done!


----------



## rickyman0319

since I bought the wrong tubing for watercooling. I bought blood red tube and not uv red tube. I need to buy uv red dye or coolant for my wc system. how long does it last? and where to buy one?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> since I bought the wrong tubing for watercooling. I bought blood red tube and not uv red tube. I need to buy uv red dye or coolant for my wc system. how long does it last? and where to buy one?


Not sure how much uv effect you will see through a colored tubing.

For uv red, you need uv pink dye to get the uv effect. You may want red or deep red to get the fluid to a red color. Uv pink is notorious for staining your blocks.

You can buy from most any wc supplier. Performance pcs or frozen cpu for example


----------



## rickyman0319

where to buy UV red tubing? PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Retail does not have UV red tubing. I need ID 1/2 and OD 3/4.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> where to buy UV red tubing? PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Retail does not have UV red tubing. I need ID 1/2 and OD 3/4.


Have you looked for this tubing because I had no problem finding it 3 clicks and there it was here


----------



## Luiyt

Does anyone know if I could mix say 125ml of mayhems X1 concentrate with 250ml of pastel concentrate and make 2 liters of liquid? Looking to make a sort of dimmed liquid, if that makes sense.


----------



## fatfree

Folks, will Light Red Pastel stain Advanced LRT? And how often should I change out pastel?

Also, need some help to estimate coolant amount. My stuff: 2x480, 1x240 both 60mm width; 3x gpu full covers; mb full cover; two pumps; 50x250mm reservoir; 13/19mm tubing.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luiyt*
> 
> Does anyone know if I could mix say 125ml of mayhems X1 concentrate with 250ml of pastel concentrate and make 2 liters of liquid? Looking to make a sort of dimmed liquid, if that makes sense.


I would not do this as both the x1 and pastel have biocides and anticorosive and not having a correct balance can affect the pH of your loop which can cause problems. I do not know all the specific ratios on the products so I am not sure what kind of ratio you'd need to get the right levels.

In terms of color, both are easy to dye....what do you have in mind?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatfree*
> 
> Folks, will Light Red Pastel stain Advanced LRT? And how often should I change out pastel?
> 
> Also, need some help to estimate coolant amount. My stuff: 2x480, 1x240 both 60mm width; 3x gpu full covers; mb full cover; two pumps; 50x250mm reservoir; 13/19mm tubing.


Pastel on its own will not stain anything. If you add dye, then you may run into some staining. The red is a little light for my idea of red so I like to add some deep red dye to it with a touch of blue.

As far as how much fluid you will need, it's hard to stay. I think it will be around 2-3 liters. I would think 3 liters will cover it....just a guess though


----------



## Luiyt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I would not do this as both the x1 and pastel have biocides and anticorosive and not having a correct balance can affect the pH of your loop which can cause problems. I do not know all the specific ratios on the products so I am not sure what kind of ratio you'd need to get the right levels.
> 
> In terms of color, both are easy to dye....what do you have in mind?


Well I'm looking to make a fairly standard yellow, but I would prefer to have the liquid more opaque than X1 but not completely solid like the pastel.


----------



## defiler2k

So I'm getting back on the horse after a couple of roller coaster weeks, show, new baby and house full of family I feel like I dropped off the face of the earth.

The show went great and although the rig I built for the show was not the key element (I was showing off some software demos and wanted the test bed to look all pretty) everyone loved the Aurora and the cooling loop.

Now that Im back to normal, Im going to tear down and drain the Aurora to replace with more stable/normal coolant. My tubing is ruined since the particles stuck to the wall after being off for over a week while I managed dad duties so I will be replacing that.

Im debating on replacing the tubing with black tubing or using clear tubing with a dark (black or dark purple coolant). Im also going to paint the few green spots left on my Sniper 5 to black to have an all black Motherboard since I hate the green









Which of the Mayhem fluids provides the best thermal performance?

Also what do you recommend to flush whatever is left of the aurora from the other components, I have a couple of bottles of sysprep from primochill and I was wondering if I run a couple of loops with that for a while to clean up everything would be enough?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I'm getting back on the horse after a couple of roller coaster weeks, show, new baby and house full of family I feel like I dropped off the face of the earth.
> 
> The show went great and although the rig I built for the show was not the key element (I was showing off some software demos and wanted the test bed to look all pretty) everyone loved the Aurora and the cooling loop.
> 
> Now that Im back to normal, Im going to tear down and drain the Aurora to replace with more stable/normal coolant. My tubing is ruined since the particles stuck to the wall after being off for over a week while I managed dad duties so I will be replacing that.
> 
> Im debating on replacing the tubing with black tubing or using clear tubing with a dark (black or dark purple coolant). Im also going to paint the few green spots left on my Sniper 5 to black to have an all black Motherboard since I hate the green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which of the Mayhem fluids provides the best thermal performance?
> 
> Also what do you recommend to flush whatever is left of the aurora from the other components, I have a couple of bottles of sysprep from primochill and I was wondering if I run a couple of loops with that for a while to clean up everything would be enough?


X1 is best performance I believe.

As far as cleaning goes,..I usually do several full and drains of DI water. The system prep may work.


----------



## kimoswabi

I was in the process of tearing down my Prodigy to rebuild/ swap/ upgrade my daughter's computer so I've decided to have a little fun with the Aurora since I had an unused bottle of the Supernova sitting around and the components were going to be taken apart anyhoo.
I re-did two of the acrylic tubes to eliminate some fittings and the drain port. There was a small leak in the fittings near the IN port of the pump which you can see in the video. Initially, I was concerned that the leak was from the O-Ring in the Primochill ghost fitting but upon further investigation, it actually turned out to be the connection between the compression fitting and the Bitspower 10mm extender. Using a second O-Ring fixed it and it has been leak free overnight.

The coolant is actually a light purple, periwinkle'ish color rather than the light blue as as you see in the video. I was going to darken the coolant quite a bit and go for a darker purple but the light periwinkle color blends really well with the white, black, & silver components.
Honestly, pictures don't do justice for the Auroras...







*And a short video montage:*


----------



## cyphon

Lol awesome!


----------



## stickg1

Oh wow, I didn't think all that could fit in a prodigy. Is that rear rad the only radiator?

Wha CPU & GPU, and what are temps under load?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> I was in the process of tearing down my Prodigy to rebuild/ swap/ upgrade my daughter's computer so I've decided to have a little fun with the Aurora since I had an unused bottle of the Supernova sitting around and the components were going to be taken apart anyhoo.
> I re-did two of the acrylic tubes to eliminate some fittings and the drain port. There was a small leak in the fittings near the IN port of the pump which you can see in the video. Initially, I was concerned that the leak was from the O-Ring in the Primochill ghost fitting but upon further investigation, it actually turned out to be the connection between the compression fitting and the Bitspower 10mm extender. Using a second O-Ring fixed it and it has been leak free overnight.
> 
> The coolant is actually a light purple, periwinkle'ish color rather than the light blue as as you see in the video. I was going to darken the coolant quite a bit and go for a darker purple but the light periwinkle color blends really well with the white, black, & silver components.
> Honestly, pictures don't do justice for the Auroras...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And a short video montage:*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The tubing looks great, as does the build.
Enjoyed the video, it makes my white pastel look so boring!
Rep+


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> The tubing looks great, as does the build.
> Enjoyed the video, it makes my white pastel look so boring!
> Rep+


He had white pastel in it before, which I think actually looked better with the build as a whole. The aurora vids are just fun to watch though


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Oh wow, I didn't think all that could fit in a prodigy. Is that rear rad the only radiator?
> 
> Wha CPU & GPU, and what are temps under load?


You're correct. Alphacool 30mm thick 120mm radiator is my only rad. Acrylic tubing really helps clean out the clutter inside the case.
My GPU (GTX 650 Ti Boost) doesn't exceed 50C and CPU (3770K) doesn't exceed 75C with fans running at max speed under full stress testing, although it'll probably run cooler now that the temperature in my room has dropped by 8-10C since the summer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> The tubing looks great, as does the build.
> Enjoyed the video, it makes my white pastel look so boring!
> Rep+


Thanks man!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> He had white pastel in it before, which I think actually looked better with the build as a whole. The aurora vids are just fun to watch though


Agreed. White pastel coolant in the white Prodigy is my favorite combo.


----------



## Mayhem

*Copper radiators + Colour based Coolants.*

Mayhems have been looking into a reported issue about the Red based coolants changing colour (Red to Dark Red and Black to Brown). This is a very rare issue but has been narrowed down a certain type of radiator.

When testing we found that just adding water and leaving overnight will turn the water Acidic meaning that either the rads have not been flush or somehow there is still acid left in the system. When acid is left on copper and air is introduced (in particular oxygen) it will create Copper Oxide over time. Copper Oxide is Blue / Green and this has a negative effect on colour coolants and will also have a negative effect on all coolants over time. (in the picture you can see a rad that has been not been cleaned turning the red coolant a deeper colour)



{Pictured is a test Rad wich we know are effected by this issue if not cleaned correctly. The liquid was left 24 hours in it with out a flush and as you can see is turning darker.}

So say a Red coolant exposed to Copper Oxide it will start turning Dark Red (Red + Blue / Green = Dark Red). If Black is exposed Copper oxide it will turn Brown (Purple + Yellow + Copper Oxide = Brown)

It is imperative that rads are flushed properly and before use. If air is somehow trapped in a rad and the liquid is somehow acidic then once again copper oxide is created and again it will affect any coolants in the system. Some coolants do not react well with copper oxide and could over a period of time have an issue.

If somehow air is trapped in your rad end tank and the liquid is acidic once again it will produce copper oxide and once again this will affect any coolants in your system. Always make sure you remove all air out of you system and bleed them correctly.

Always flush your system fully and correctly and sometimes water alone does not do it. If you are going to acid clean your system using vinegar then you must neutralize that acid afterwards. You can use bicarbonate of soda to help do this or head down to your local aquarium shop and ask for animal safe products to bring the PH level back into neutral.

Also on a side note never add Copper Sulfate Biocide to Pastel as again the above will happen and if you have used copper sulfate in your system before using red pastel make sure you flush it out correctly.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *Copper radiators + Colour based Coolants.*
> 
> Mayhems have been looking into a reported issue about the Red based coolants changing colour (Red to Dark Red and Black to Brown). This is a very rare issue but has been narrowed down a certain type of radiator.
> 
> When testing we found that just adding water and leaving overnight will turn the water Acidic meaning that either the rads have not been flush or somehow there is still acid left in the system. When acid is left on copper and air is introduced (in particular oxygen) it will create Copper Oxide over time. Copper Oxide is Blue / Green and this has a negative effect on colour coolants and will also have a negative effect on all coolants over time. (in the picture you can see a rad that has been not been cleaned turning the red coolant a deeper colour)
> 
> 
> 
> {Pictured is a test Rad wich we know are effected by this issue if not cleaned correctly. The liquid was left 24 hours in it with out a flush and as you can see is turning darker.}
> 
> So say a Red coolant exposed to Copper Oxide it will start turning Dark Red (Red + Blue / Green = Dark Red). If Black is exposed Copper oxide it will turn Brown (Purple + Yellow + Copper Oxide = Brown)
> 
> It is imperative that rads are flushed properly and before use. If air is somehow trapped in a rad and the liquid is somehow acidic then once again copper oxide is created and again it will affect any coolants in the system. Some coolants do not react well with copper oxide and could over a period of time have an issue.
> 
> If somehow air is trapped in your rad end tank and the liquid is acidic once again it will produce copper oxide and once again this will affect any coolants in your system. Always make sure you remove all air out of you system and bleed them correctly.
> 
> Always flush your system fully and correctly and sometimes water alone does not do it. If you are going to acid clean your system using vinegar then you must neutralize that acid afterwards. You can use bicarbonate of soda to help do this or head down to your local aquarium shop and ask for animal safe products to bring the PH level back into neutral.
> 
> Also on a side note never add Copper Sulfate Biocide to Pastel as again the above will happen and if you have used copper sulfate in your system before using red pastel make sure you flush it out correctly.


My red pastel is now in a dark purple state. I flushed my rads properly but I guess It was not enough. My rads are Phobya G-Changer which are full copper.

On sunday I flushed another rig that has white pastel to find out that I start to turn a little baby blue and yesterday after a day of settling I have some copper oxide (blue-green residue) in the bottom of my container. Those radiators are Alphacool UT60 full copper and those one too were properly flushed...

I clean them with tap water a few times then with DI water and bicarbonate of soda...


----------



## kpoeticg

Has anybody had this issue with White Pastel + Alphacool NexXxos rads?

Thank you for posting that akira749. I figured i'd be fine since i have a rad flushing setup too.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Has anybody had this issue with White Pastel + Alphacool NexXxos rads?


You should be fine as long as you take care when setting up your loop. Always flush the rads several times with boiling (or at least really freakin hot) water then a final flush running DI water through it for awhile. As Mayhem also pointed out, make sure that you bleed the system appropriately so that air is not present and you should be fine


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> My red pastel is now in a dark purple state. I flushed my rads properly but I guess It was not enough. My rads are Phobya G-Changer which are full copper.
> 
> On sunday I flushed another rig that has white pastel to find out that I start to turn a little baby blue and yesterday after a day of settling I have some copper oxide (blue-green residue) in the bottom of my container. Those radiators are Alphacool UT60 full copper and those one too were properly flushed...
> 
> I clean them with tap water a few times then with DI water and bicarbonate of soda...


Can you take the pH of your fluid? A litmus test for example? Your fluid may be slightly acidic which could cause the problem


----------



## akira749

Where can I find stuff to check my pH? I never did that so I don't really know what to do...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Where can I find stuff to check my pH? I never did that so I don't really know what to do...


You just need to get some litmus paper. Should be able to get at any hardware store, supermarket (target, walmart, etc), and maybe even a drug store like a CVS.

It looks like this


You simply dip it in the fluid for a second and wait for it to change to a color. You match the color to the color code on the package to get the pH. Anything under 7 is acidic, where the closer to 1 it is the more acidic it is.


----------



## Ovrclck

Does anyone have a picture of UV oil black in action?


----------



## sidewayz

Hi mayhems btw im new here!
anyway i just built my 900d system and i used Durelene St Gobain 3/8 5/8 Clear Tube and used 2x 250ml mayhem's pastel ice white concentrate and 50ML of mayhems red dye 3 1/2 15ml, + 1,500 ml pure distilled h20 to achieve the redness i wanted. also used 2x 480 SR1 rads see pic



so i was happy with the results! but i just realised now after using it 24/7 for 3 weeks the redness turned into a light maroony red. is this normal?? or is it the problem with the tubing i used? st gobain? anyway i hope u answer my query mayhem i really like your product but a bit dissapointed after 3 weeks of use. btw i also cleaned and flushed the radiators nicely with hot water.


----------



## kpoeticg

Duralene has slower plasticizer issue's than alot of tubing but it still happens. Keep an eye out for plasticizer. Next time u plan on draining/flushing your loop, might wanna consider switching it out for some Primochill Advanced LRT

BTW, rig looks beautiful. Nice work!!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You just need to get some litmus paper. Should be able to get at any hardware store, supermarket (target, walmart, etc), and maybe even a drug store like a CVS.
> 
> It looks like this
> 
> 
> You simply dip it in the fluid for a second and wait for it to change to a color. You match the color to the color code on the package to get the pH. Anything under 7 is acidic, where the closer to 1 it is the more acidic it is.


Ok thanks I will grab one and let you know what the result is.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Duralene has slower plasticizer issue's than alot of tubing but it still happens. Keep an eye out for plasticizer. Next time u plan on draining/flushing your loop, might wanna consider switching it out for some Primochill Advanced LRT
> 
> BTW, rig looks beautiful. Nice work!!


I find that over time durelene starts to turn a greenish hue, usually after about 3-6 months use


----------



## sidewayz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Duralene has slower plasticizer issue's than alot of tubing but it still happens. Keep an eye out for plasticizer. Next time u plan on draining/flushing your loop, might wanna consider switching it out for some Primochill Advanced LRT
> 
> BTW, rig looks beautiful. Nice work!!


thanks anyway is duralene the same with tygon tubings?


----------



## Interstate

I know its not the nicest looking rig here but I'm happy with how the color turned out. Pastel white with a boat load of ocean blue dye.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Interstate*
> 
> I know its not the nicest looking rig here but I'm happy with how the color turned out. Pastel white with a boat load of ocean blue dye.


Good work! I like the shade of blue you got there!


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Sidewayz,

I had a similar issue with my rig. The mayhem's red pastel turned almost purple after a while. Michael from Mayhems was very helpful. When I took my system apart, I found that the PH was about 8.5. Way too high. The change in color was probably Copper Sulfate in the water. Check your pH.


----------



## Mayhem

akira749 if you send me you name and address to [email protected] and ill send you out some PH test strips free of charge. Also include your invoice for what you bought and we will replace them. This is part of the normal service from us. I dont come on here much any more as we have a rep who does it for us now







but if you do have any issues and this is the same for any user of our products just fire us a email we don't bite







.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> akira749 if you send me you name and address to [email protected] and ill send you out some PH test strips free of charge. Also include your invoice for what you bought and we will replace them. This is part of the normal service from us. I dont come on here much any more as we have a rep who does it for us now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but if you do have any issues and this is the same for any user of our products just fire us a email we don't bite
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


lol I know you don't bite


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewayz*
> 
> thanks anyway is duralene the same with tygon tubings?


I didn't answer u cuz i figured some1 in here that knows more about Tygon would've by now. I know alot of their tubing ends up with Plasticizer like Duralene after a while. I THINK their black neoprene tubing is plasticizer free. They might have another type, i dunno. But if you want clear tubing, there's no reason not to just go with Advanced LRT.


----------



## sidewayz

yeah im looking into that now but i hope its available here locally (philippines) anyway i found this product also mayhems..will this eliminate the discoloring of the red pastel? it says ph balancer so i thought it wont ruin the original pastel red color. lol sorry for the noobie questions im new into this kind of stuff.

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/biocide-extreme-10ml.html

kpoeticg PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8 5/8 - Crystal Clear? so if i use this tubing it wont discolor or anything? ty

btw i also saw this primochill brand and is not advisable to use with the pastel range as indicated at the website which is also advanced lrt tubing.


----------



## kpoeticg

Primochill LRT was the predecessor to Advaned LRT. Primochill LRT had Plasticizer issue's. Advanced LRT is the new improved version. All Mayhem's coolants already have biocide in em, and you definitely SHOULD NOT add more. That's more for people that use Distilled Water + Mayhem Dye. The coolant has absolutely everything you need in it and there's warning's not to add any biocides/anti corrosives/kill coil's. And yes, the Advanced LRT comes in alot of different colors including Clear. Any time you run Coolant's or Dye's in your system there's a chance that thing's will get a little Dye Stained over time. But if that's all it is, you can clean it out by flushing and scrubbing your blocks. Plasticizer is different. It's basically the coolant eating away at your tubing. And the particles that come off end up absorbing the dye and are so small that they also clog your blocks.

Also any Mayhem's UV Pink or UV Red (which is red + UV Pink) stains infamously. It's just dye staining so it shouldn't be harmful and you should be able to clean it out when you want to. But he has warning's about that everywhere he lists his products.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewayz*
> 
> yeah im looking into that now but i hope its available here locally (philippines) anyway i found this product also mayhems..will this eliminate the discoloring of the red pastel? it says ph balancer so i thought it wont ruin the original pastel red color. lol sorry for the noobie questions im new into this kind of stuff.
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/biocide-extreme-10ml.html
> 
> kpoeticg PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8 5/8 - Crystal Clear? so if i use this tubing it wont discolor or anything? ty
> 
> btw i also saw this primochill brand and is not advisable to use with the pastel range as indicated at the website which is also advanced lrt tubing.


Pastel aready has the biocides in it. If you prep your loop correctly then your fluid won't change colors. You should be sure to flush all your blocks and your rads thoroughly before filling it to run with any fluid. Flush the rads with really hot water and some more with DI water and flush your blocks with DI water. This should remove any of the rad flux or other impurities that may cause issues later. Then make sure that you bleed your loop real good and make sure there is not any air trapped in the radiator for example.

The primochill warning was for the PRO LRT which had plasticizer problems. Advanced LRT is fine and shouldn't discolor on you.


----------



## sidewayz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Primochill LRT was the predecessor to Advaned LRT. Primochill LRT had Plasticizer issue's. Advanced LRT is the new improved version. All Mayhem's coolants already have biocide in em, and you definitely SHOULD NOT add more. That's more for people that use Distilled Water + Mayhem Dye. The coolant has absolutely everything you need in it and there's warning's not to add any biocides/anti corrosives/kill coil's. And yes, the Advanced LRT comes in alot of different colors including Clear. Any time you run Coolant's or Dye's in your system there's a chance that thing's will get a little Dye Stained over time. But if that's all it is, you can clean it out by flushing and scrubbing your blocks. Plasticizer is different. It's basically the coolant eating away at your tubing. And the particles that come off end up absorbing the dye and are so small that they also clog your blocks.
> 
> Also any Mayhem's UV Pink or UV Red (which is red + UV Pink) stains infamously. It's just dye staining so it shouldn't be harmful and you should be able to clean it out when you want to. But he has warning's about that everywhere he lists his products.


thanks for that helpful info! any i just noticed my durelene tubing after 3 weeks of usage the tubing suddenly turned like light yellowish stain. so the plasticizer is the culprit?


----------



## kpoeticg

Definitely sounds like it


----------



## sidewayz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Pastel aready has the biocides in it. If you prep your loop correctly then your fluid won't change colors. You should be sure to flush all your blocks and your rads thoroughly before filling it to run with any fluid. Flush the rads with really hot water and some more with DI water and flush your blocks with DI water. This should remove any of the rad flux or other impurities that may cause issues later. Then make sure that you bleed your loop real good and make sure there is not any air trapped in the radiator for example.
> 
> The primochill warning was for the PRO LRT which had plasticizer problems. Advanced LRT is fine and shouldn't discolor on you.


so any brand will do besides tygon as long it has Advanced LRT on it?
i posted in my previous post - i made 500ml pastel white concentrate + 1500ml di water and 50ml of red dyes to achieve the redish color i want. also i cleaned the rads nicely with boiling water before filling the loop. im also using the black ice sr1 rads. are these ok for the red pastel? or the rads doesnt matter? ty


----------



## kpoeticg

Primochill Advanced LRT is a specific tubing from Primochill =)

The type of rad Shouldn't matter. The past cpl days a new issue seems to have come up regarding rads that have copper tanks. Black Ice isn't one of em. Also if you flushed with boiling tap water, you should consider flushing with DI water after that b4 u fill your loop. Tap water has alot of minerals in it that get left behind in your rads.


----------



## Ragsters

Biocide extreme plus distilled water = good?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewayz*
> 
> so any brand will do besides tygon as long it has Advanced LRT on it?
> i posted in my previous post - i made 500ml pastel white concentrate + 1500ml di water and 50ml of red dyes to achieve the redish color i want. also i cleaned the rads nicely with boiling water before filling the loop. im also using the black ice sr1 rads. are these ok for the red pastel? or the rads doesnt matter? ty


Sounds like you are good to go! That is the appropriate dilution of pastel and the dye is simply dye lol. Sounds like your loop has been flushed appropriately as well so yeah you are good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Biocide extreme plus distilled water = good?


This is good yes. What metals are in your loop?


----------



## Mayhem

Do not use our Biocide with any of our pastel product lines. Adding biocide extreme into it will cause issues. Biocide extreme is for use on it own (with water) or with dye and you only need 1 drop per 1 to 2 ltrs.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> This is good yes. What metals are in your loop?


Nickel plated copper blocks, bitspower shiny fittings and Alphacool rads.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Nickel plated copper blocks, bitspower shiny fittings and Alphacool rads.


Cool, the DI water with the biocides extreme you should be good. As mayhem pointed out, only use the directed amount of the biocides so you don't cause any issues. You will probably only use a drop or two of it for the whole loop.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Cool, the DI water with the biocides extreme you should be good. As mayhem pointed out, only use the directed amount of the biocides so you don't cause any issues. You will probably only use a drop or two of it for the whole loop.


Thanks bud. I appreciate it.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewayz*
> 
> Hi mayhems btw im new here!
> anyway i just built my 900d system and i used Durelene St Gobain 3/8 5/8 Clear Tube and used 2x 250ml mayhem's pastel ice white concentrate and 50ML of mayhems red dye 3 1/2 15ml, + 1,500 ml pure distilled h20 to achieve the redness i wanted. also used 2x 480 SR1 rads see pic
> 
> so i was happy with the results! but i just realised now after using it 24/7 for 3 weeks the redness turned into a light maroony red. is this normal?? or is it the problem with the tubing i used? st gobain? anyway i hope u answer my query mayhem i really like your product but a bit dissapointed after 3 weeks of use. btw i also cleaned and flushed the radiators nicely with hot water.


As a fellow Ducati owner (848 Evo Corse), I love your build! Looks very similiar to mine but I used pastel red instead of white with dye added. Nice job.

EDIT: How did you add the dye to your loop? Did you do it drop by drop after you had filled it with the white pastel? Reason I ask is that sometimes dyes can pool up and not completly mix with the rest of the fluid. It is possible that you had dye pool in one of your radiators at first which slowly began to mix into the loop. This would cause your red to darken to a maroon as your loop continued to run.


----------



## buildmeacomp

Wait so do I use deionized water with pastel products or distilled?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buildmeacomp*
> 
> Wait so do I use deionized water with pastel products or distilled?


Either....Deionizing and distilling are just two different methods to purify the water. You could also use Mayhems pure H2O or any other sort of purified water.


----------



## sidewayz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> As a fellow Ducati owner (848 Evo Corse), I love your build! Looks very similiar to mine but I used pastel red instead of white with dye added. Nice job.
> 
> EDIT: How did you add the dye to your loop? Did you do it drop by drop after you had filled it with the white pastel? Reason I ask is that sometimes dyes can pool up and not completly mix with the rest of the fluid. It is possible that you had dye pool in one of your radiators at first which slowly began to mix into the loop. This would cause your red to darken to a maroon as your loop continued to run.


where do u live buddy? motorcycles are my passion! rightnow i have a ducati 1198s corse edition and a ktm 690 smc. u can add me on facebook if u want =) thanks! btw i added little by little for it to mix very well on the reservoir. i dont think thats the issue. the redness should not be like this kinda reddish brownish color.

anyway a local reseller adviced me to use this tubing.. is this the best one to use on the pastel range? thanks
http://forums.pureoverclock.com/primochill/19127-new-primoflex-advanced-lrt-tubing-2.html

hes charging me 7$ u.s a foot lol kinda expensive for a rubber tubing but its ok as long as it works with the pastel range with no issues.

sorry for asking too many questions =)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buildmeacomp*
> 
> Wait so do I use deionized water with pastel products or distilled?


Deionized water is distilled water that has been run through a process that removes ions from the water, as the name suggests. I wouldn't recommend deionized water if you're going to be mixing it with concentrates. In theory deionized shouldn't have a pH level at all, but it does re-ionize after time. It also tends to form carbonic acid when exposed to CO2. Since you plan on mixing it with concentrates you may want to just use distilled water.

'Don't know if Mayhems concentrates might react with carbonic acid, or if the re-ionization of DI might effect it. We'll see if Mick or the Th0rn0 might chime in.


----------



## Gdfthr248

Bitfenix Prodigy running Mayhems Pastel Green!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdfthr248*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bitfenix Prodigy running Mayhems Pastel Green!


man that is an amazing build


----------



## snef

Yes , amazing, really great
One of best with green ive seen


----------



## patriotaki

I Have a custom Eisberg loop ( http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-020-TL ) will the mayhem x1 uv red premixed watercooling fluid harm my system or the loop? (tubing,blocs) etc.. ?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patriotaki*
> 
> I Have a custom Eisberg loop ( http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-020-TL ) will the mayhem x1 uv red premixed watercooling fluid harm my system or the loop? (tubing,blocs) etc.. ?


Should be fine


----------



## Joyride

Just completed a build using Mayhem's dye. Filled the loop in 250mL mix increments with 20 drops purple and 10 drops UV laser green. Turned out a bit too green but looks pretty good under UV LEDs.


----------



## rickyman0319

if there is a dye in the waterblook, how do I clean the dye on it?


----------



## snef

paint and sleeving are exact same color and my coolant is very very closed to sleeving and paint
wait for dye and try one last thing, if not working, will keep it like pic

the sleeving have just a little bit of pink/skin tone in it, I just don't know how to add this to coolant
(funny, don't see this pink/skin tone on pics but its there)



Any Idea

I have deep purple, Ocean blue and UV pink dye
I think try add one drop of pink in 125ml water and add it to coolant?????


----------



## WiLd FyeR

What do you guys think of *Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O* compared to other distilled waters.


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> What do you guys think of *Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O* compared to other distilled waters.


Unless you live somewhere that finding distilled water is a challenge, you're are better off saving your money and just buying the distilled water at your grocery store or superstore (Walmart/Target).

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/22/distilled-water-shootout-water-purity/


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CapnCrunch10*
> 
> Unless you live somewhere that finding distilled water is a challenge, you're are better off saving your money and just buying the distilled water at your grocery store or superstore (Walmart/Target).
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/22/distilled-water-shootout-water-purity/


Thanks REP+


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 was made for the UK region and for some reason (don't ask me why) it gets exported all over. The "only" reason why i make it is because the UK DI water supply is absolute crass. If your country does "distilled water" cheaply and its below 5ppm then get that. We cannot get distilled water that easily in the UK hence why i started producing our own Ultra Pure and also the fact its used in all our products.


----------



## Aparition

People buy it that don't live in the UK because of your Branding.







there is a lot to a label.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 was made for the UK region and for some reason (don't ask me why) it gets exported all over. The "only" reason why i make it is because the UK DI water supply is absolute crass. If you country does "distilled water" cheaply and its below 5ppm then get that. We cannot get distilled water that easily in the UK hence why i started producing our own Ultra Pure and also the fact its used in all our products.


Weird....why is it so hard to get in UK?


----------



## Mayhem

I do not know why it costs so much but for me to purchase 5 Ltrs of Distilled it will costs me £20 from the local pharmacy. In my town there is no other way to buy it. For us to buy in 1,000 Ltr of Ultra Pure Type 2 it cost a fortune. Since we started selling UP 2 water the price has now dropped in the UK on-line because of what we did which was funny to watch. Companies then started to add certification onto there liquids so in essence we caused them to up there game more but its still expensive.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I do not know why it costs so much but for me to purchase 5 Ltrs of Distilled it will costs me £20 from the local pharmacy. In my town there is no other way to buy it. For us to buy in 1,000 Ltr of Ultra Pure Type 2 it cost a fortune. Since we started selling UP 2 water the price has now dropped in the UK on-line because of what we did which was funny to watch. Companies then started to add certification onto there liquids so in essence we caused them to up there game more but its still expensive.


Lol that's pretty awesome...

And 20 pounds for 5 liters!?!?!?!?! That's like $32 us...holy crap.........

I bought a gallon for under $2 like 2 days ago


----------



## Mayhem

That was a few years back i don't know how much it costs now because i don't need to ask







. I have to remember mayhems has been going in one form or another for nearly 5 years now.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patriotaki*
> 
> I Have a custom Eisberg loop ( http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-020-TL ) will the mayhem x1 uv red premixed watercooling fluid harm my system or the loop? (tubing,blocs) etc.. ?


Saw it at Comdex









http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33364-Maximus-VI-Formula-Show-Casemod-MbK

Look in upper left below


----------



## Th0rn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdfthr248*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bitfenix Prodigy running Mayhems Pastel Green!


Nice look rig! Love the colors! Personally I'm not a fan of the prodigy. I've had too many problems with them. Mainly the horrendous build quailty so I have to glue/re set alot of the panels.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joyride*
> 
> Just completed a build using Mayhem's dye. Filled the loop in 250mL mix increments with 20 drops purple and 10 drops UV laser green. Turned out a bit too green but looks pretty good under UV LEDs.


Those UV colors look fantastic. Really eye catching!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> if there is a dye in the waterblook, how do I clean the dye on it?


Best way is to just flush it out with some distilled water. Hook it up to a res and a pump andd just let it run for a bit. Remember to change the water a few times to make sure that it's clean.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Saw it at Comdex
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33364-Maximus-VI-Formula-Show-Casemod-MbK
> 
> Look in upper left below


Another priced board is it


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> paint and sleeving are exact same color and my coolant is very very closed to sleeving and paint
> wait for dye and try one last thing, if not working, will keep it like pic
> 
> the sleeving have just a little bit of pink/skin tone in it, I just don't know how to add this to coolant
> (funny, don't see this pink/skin tone on pics but its there)
> 
> 
> 
> Any Idea
> 
> I have deep purple, Ocean blue and UV pink dye
> I think try add one drop of pink in 125ml water and add it to coolant?????


2 questions

pink uv dye:
i saw in this post to not using it in loop because stain everything
if i put one drop or 2 in my coolant, its enough to stain my component (hard acrylic tubing)

2e
in my pics, the sleeving have just a very little bit of pink/skin tone, not see it in pic but its here
How can i add this to my coolant (the one in pic)

thanks


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th0rn0*
> 
> Another priced board is it


Pic was for the Coolermaster Eisberg 240L with Mayems red cooling which patriotaki asked about

But yes the board is very well priced. While Asus has had to reduce the price on the Hero several times to compete with the GD65, the M6F has remained stable.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> 2 questions
> 
> pink uv dye:
> i saw in this post to not using it in loop because stain everything
> if i put one drop or 2 in my coolant, its enough to stain my component (hard acrylic tubing)
> 
> 2e
> in my pics, the sleeving have just a very little bit of pink/skin tone, not see it in pic but its here
> How can i add this to my coolant (the one in pic)
> 
> thanks


hmmmmmmm....

1-2 drops i do not think would cause much staining. I think it is when you use a lot to really get the UV effect that will cause the staining. You could also maybe use a drop of red or orange?

could be wrong tho :/


----------



## cyphon

Almost loop filling time :whee:


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> hmmmmmmm....
> 
> 1-2 drops i do not think would cause much staining. I think it is when you use a lot to really get the UV effect that will cause the staining. You could also maybe use a drop of red or orange?
> 
> could be wrong tho :/


my coolant sunset yellow with orange dye, if i add more, it will be to orange
i think the orange tone is ok, just need add a very small skin tone or pink
like a relection in sleeving, if not i will keep it like that but want to add it

thanks


----------



## rickyman0319

I am going to use this waterblock for amd system ( Apogee Drive II )

http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeDrive2.aspx#tab3

if I have dye in it, can I just use distilled water to flush it or not. if not, what can I use to finish it.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am going to use this waterblock for amd system ( Apogee Drive II )
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeDrive2.aspx#tab3
> 
> if I have dye in it, can I just use distilled water to flush it or not. if not, what can I use to finish it.


What kind of dye? If it is UV Pink then good luck, lol

Generally for cleaning, I think some bicarb and distilled water solution is a safe bet. Wet the block with some distilled water, sprinkle with some bicarb, and scrub with a soft bristle tooth brush. Will probably take a couple treatments but you should see the dye stain start to go away.


----------



## rickyman0319

UV blue or Blood Red dye.

is it safer just to be UV blue or Blood Red coolant? or that is the same?

what is bicarb?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> UV blue or Blood Red dye.
> 
> is it safer just to be UV blue or Blood Red coolant? or that is the same?
> 
> what is bicarb?


bicarb (sodium bicarbonate) is commonly called baking soda

What do you mean by 'safer'? In terms of staining?


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> bicarb (sodium bicarbonate) is commonly called baking soda
> 
> What do you mean by 'safer'? In terms of staining?


yes I mean staining .


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*


Hi!

What dye would I have to add to the Pastel Raspberry Purple to make it more "dark" like this



Blue Dye?

Dark Blue Dye?

Purple Dye?

Red Dye?

Thanks!


----------



## kpoeticg

Red dye will make purple lighter, Blue dye will make purple darker



Damn that Purple Raspberry looks like some delicious beverage that i've never seen before but want to try.......


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewayz*
> 
> where do u live buddy? motorcycles are my passion! rightnow i have a ducati 1198s corse edition and a ktm 690 smc. u can add me on facebook if u want =) thanks! btw i added little by little for it to mix very well on the reservoir. i dont think thats the issue. the redness should not be like this kinda reddish brownish color.
> 
> anyway a local reseller adviced me to use this tubing.. is this the best one to use on the pastel range? thanks
> http://forums.pureoverclock.com/primochill/19127-new-primoflex-advanced-lrt-tubing-2.html
> 
> hes charging me 7$ u.s a foot lol kinda expensive for a rubber tubing but its ok as long as it works with the pastel range with no issues.
> 
> sorry for asking too many questions =)


I live in Texas!

I am using the advance LRT tubing with red pastel. It is supposed to not discolor or have the plasticizer issues of other brands. That may be what discolored your fluid. Did you test your pH level? $7 a foot is CRAZY for that tubing. I paid $2 per foot and thought that was high.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Red dye will make purple lighter, Blue dye will make purple darker
> 
> 
> 
> Damn that Purple Raspberry looks like some delicious beverage that i've never seen before but want to try.......


Thanks









And yes it look soooooo tasty


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdfthr248*





Spoiler: Like this pic. Well done on the build.





Bitfenix Prodigy running Mayhems Pastel Green!


----------



## AddictedGamer93

Is there any need to worry about pH levels when using Pastel? I am having some light corrosion using distilled, though it is around a 6 on the pH scale, which is no doubt why I am seeing the beginnings of corrosion. I just want to know if I will have to worry about anything once I make the switch, since Pastel has corrosion inhibitors mixed in.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AddictedGamer93*
> 
> Is there any need to worry about pH levels when using Pastel? I am having some light corrosion using distilled, though it is around a 6 on the pH scale, which is no doubt why I am seeing the beginnings of corrosion. I just want to know if I will have to worry about anything once I make the switch, since Pastel has corrosion inhibitors mixed in.


unbalanced pH can cause it to change colors. It has anti-corrosives in it, however. Before putting pastel in there, you should drain your loop and clean everything up


----------



## AddictedGamer93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> unbalanced pH can cause it to change colors. It has anti-corrosives in it, however. Before putting pastel in there, you should drain your loop and clean everything up


I already knew about having to drain and rinse, I am still trying to figure out the best way to do that actually. My loop being a serious pita to drain and all.


----------



## Barney626

Planning a new build with Mayhems UV green dye, but I can't decide between red or green cathode lighting (in addition to UV)
anyone got experience or pictures of either being used with the UV green dye?


----------



## kpoeticg

With cathodes, I personally am only really a fan of White or UV. I like LED's for all other colors


----------



## Barney626

I'm going with cathodes because LED's are more expensive. bit of a stupid reason while spending £1100 on a new gaming setup...
I may consider LEDs when I finally get a price for all the components. I was more asking about the colour combinations of green and red?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barney626*
> 
> I'm going with cathodes because LED's are more expensive. bit of a stupid reason while spending £1100 on a new gaming setup...
> I may consider LEDs when I finally get a price for all the components. I was more asking about the colour combinations of green and red?


LEDs are cheap, 16ft for $15 on Amazon. Just have to solder a molex plug onto the strips. Pretty easy to do and you can make them any length you want. Those pre-packaged kits are nice, ready out of the box, but they are always either too long or not long enough for my uses. So I started making my own!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Stick to Cathodes for UV light, and white light.
\Black Light Bulb cathodes create 65-80% UV light, while UV LEDs produce around 8% UV Light.
White Cathodes are just better for creating ambient light than LEDs.

Other than UV light and white light, LEDs are better. They don't require an inverter, and they just add more desirable effects for colored lighting a confined area like a PC chassis.


----------



## Barney626

looked again and found a nice set of LED strips for a reasonable price, going with LEDs now. (LED or cathode for UV lighting?) anyway, red or green LED strips for use with UV lighting and UV green dye? btw mother board is black and red (However red is minimal) so that's why I would go with red. wondering if the red light would make the UV green dye stand out more or less than the Green light?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barney626*
> 
> looked again and found a nice set of LED strips for a reasonable price, going with LEDs now. (LED or cathode for UV lighting?) anyway, red or green LED strips for use with UV lighting and UV green dye? btw mother board is black and red (However red is minimal) so that's why I would go with red. wondering if the red light would make the UV green dye stand out more or less than the Green light?


I personally don't like mixing colors. My experience has been that the fluid ends up looking more like the lighting. I really only use white/soft white for main case lighting now. If you want to accent a certain area, then you can get the laser LED to spotlight a certain section or area so it doesn't bleed into everything else


----------



## Barney626

an example of what I was thinking is this build



skip to about 35 seconds and you can see the inside of the case seems to be lit a deep blue (I don't think that is because of the UV but I could be wrong) however the UV green dye (Mayhems... Obviously) stands out. I'm unsure if I would have the same effect with red lighting or if it would be better to go with green lighting? or maybe even UV only and neither red or green?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barney626*
> 
> an example of what I was thinking is this build
> 
> 
> 
> skip to about 35 seconds and you can see the inside of the case seems to be lit a deep blue (I don't think that is because of the UV but I could be wrong) however the UV green dye (Mayhems... Obviously) stands out. I'm unsure if I would have the same effect with red lighting or if it would be better to go with green lighting? or maybe even UV only and neither red or green?


That blue type color is the UV lamps and the inside of your case will look like that if you want the UV effect (the glowing fluid). Without the UV lamps, it will be just a colored fluid, which is fine, but sounds like you want the glow effect to make it stand out.

Red lights with the UV lamps will wash out the UV effect a bit and probably clash with the green imo. Same goes with green. You will have the red or green mixing with the purple from the UV lamps color wise as well.

Without the UV lamps, again, you will get no fluid glowing and just have your lights.

The UV works by the lamps producing primarily UV light (this is why they are purple as that is the closest color to UV in the visible spectrum) and the UV reactive material absorbs the UV light and reacts causing it to glow.


----------



## cyphon

Here's a teaser from my now almost finished WIP.

Loop 1 is Mayhems Pastel Orange w/ about 3 or 4 drops of Mayhems Deep Red Dye (the pic doesn't have it all the way circulated through the fluid yet)
Loop 2 is Mayhems Pastel White


The yellow wire is a hack I did for filling. You can read more about it in my build log if you are curious. I'm trying to borrow a high quality camera from a friend to take the final pics and don't want to spoil the finished, filled loop without getting the best pics possible


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Here's a teaser from my now almost finished WIP.
> 
> Loop 1 is Mayhems Pastel Orange w/ about 3 or 4 drops of Mayhems Deep Red Dye (the pic doesn't have it all the way circulated through the fluid yet)
> Loop 2 is Mayhems Pastel White
> 
> 
> The yellow wire is a hack I did for filling. You can read more about it in my build log if you are curious. I'm trying to borrow a high quality camera from a friend to take the final pics and don't want to spoil the finished, filled loop without getting the best pics possible


Two tone double loops are nice. Be sure to post final pictures in here.


----------



## kidvapor

prodigy i built for my wife. only cooling an A10. she doesn't need much more horsepower, shes not a gamer or anything. It was my first time bending rigid tubing and i plan on redoing it.
http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/kidvapor58/media/pc builds/CAM00171_zps86703ad2.jpg.html


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidvapor*
> 
> prodigy i built for my wife. only cooling an A10. she doesn't need much more horsepower, shes not a gamer or anything. It was my first time bending rigid tubing and i plan on redoing it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/kidvapor58/media/pc builds/CAM00171_zps86703ad2.jpg.html


Nice Work. I like it, good job on the pipe bending


----------



## cyphon

@kidvapor, why redo it? Looks pretty sick as is









On a side note, I really want to do a prodigy build after seeing several crop up recently......just need to find a use for it to justify building


----------



## MR-e

hey guys, would 1 bottle of pastel white be enough for the liquid i need to in my sig build? plan on tearing it down for maintenance and thought to change up the tubing to clear and pastel white.

thanks!


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> hey guys, would 1 bottle of pastel white be enough for the liquid i need to in my sig build? plan on tearing it down for maintenance and thought to change up the tubing to clear and pastel white.
> 
> thanks!


To give you an estimate, I have one 60mm 360 rad, one 45mm 240 rad, GPU block/CPU block, and a 250mm res/pump top combo (D5 X-Res), and one bottle of Mayhems Pastel, which makes 1 Litre of coolant, filled my entire loop, and the 250mm currently sits around halfway full. So if you want a full res, then get two bottles.


----------



## MR-e

much appreciated, i'll be changing some parts around to the following:

1x 120 rad
1x 240 rad
1x 85ml res
cpu + cpu block

so i believe a single bottle would suffice.

+rep


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> much appreciated, i'll be changing some parts around to the following:
> 
> 1x 120 rad
> 1x 240 rad
> 1x 85ml res
> cpu + cpu block
> 
> so i believe a single bottle would suffice.
> 
> +rep


Yep, that will easily cover your loop size.


----------



## MR-e

I notice that the pastel line is blended with non toxic corrosion and scale Inhibitors, is there a way of adding that to the regular dye line as well? Might do a dual loop for a friends build with pastel and regular dye.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> I notice that the pastel line is blended with non toxic corrosion and scale Inhibitors, is there a way of adding that to the regular dye line as well? Might do a dual loop for a friends build with pastel and regular dye.


Look at the x1 line. It performs great and has the biocides and antcorosion. It looks like dyed water.

Otherwise, you will want to add a drop or two of mayhems biocides extreme or use kill coil in your DI water + dye.


----------



## MR-e

so if i mix the following i should be good? I ask because the description says do not mix with any mayhems pre mixes.

biocide extreme
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_1073&products_id=34085

x1 uv blue concentrate
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=34061

Edit

Common Q&A for X1

Q: Does mayhems X1 contain Inhibitors and biocides?
A: Yes it does it contains every thing you need to protect your system again any sort of growth or mixed metal you may come across.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> so if i mix the following i should be good? I ask because the description says do not mix with any mayhems pre mixes.
> 
> biocide extreme
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_1073&products_id=34085
> 
> x1 uv blue concentrate
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=34061
> 
> Edit
> 
> Common Q&A for X1
> 
> Q: Does mayhems X1 contain Inhibitors and biocides?
> A: Yes it does it contains every thing you need to protect your system again any sort of growth or mixed metal you may come across.


You can buy X1 Clear...so you will have something like DI water with all the inhibitors and biocides already in there and just add the dye you like in it


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> so if i mix the following i should be good? I ask because the description says do not mix with any mayhems pre mixes.
> 
> biocide extreme
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_1073&products_id=34085
> 
> x1 uv blue concentrate
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=34061
> 
> Edit
> 
> Common Q&A for X1
> 
> Q: Does mayhems X1 contain Inhibitors and biocides?
> A: Yes it does it contains every thing you need to protect your system again any sort of growth or mixed metal you may come across.


Do not add any biocides or anticorosive to x1. It is all good to go.

As someone else mentioned you can buy the clear and dye it to any color you'd like


----------



## rebelextrm02

What exactly does the pastel coolant do if it's dilluted just a little too much? I really want to use the pastel blue berry in my loop and now that I've added a gpu block and second radiator I'm about 2 Tbsp or roughly 29.5 mL over of pastel concentrate needed. I really don't want to have to buy a second bottle for such a small amount. I may end up going with the blue dye if it's too big of a deal. :/

Also, I'm quite impressed with how clear the Primochill Advanced LRT tubing is. Hopefully it holds up. The durelene I used didn't look so hot after a couple months of use, both with the pastel ice white and pure distilled with a drop of biocide.



I'm thinking the pastel blue berry would really make this pop. Thoughts or opinions?


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rebelextrm02*
> 
> What exactly does the pastel coolant do if it's dilluted just a little too much? I really want to use the pastel blue berry in my loop and now that I've added a gpu block and second radiator I'm about 2 Tbsp or roughly 29.5 mL over of pastel concentrate needed. I really don't want to have to buy a second bottle for such a small amount. I may end up going with the blue dye if it's too big of a deal. :/
> 
> Also, I'm quite impressed with how clear the Primochill Advanced LRT tubing is. Hopefully it holds up. The durelene I used didn't look so hot after a couple months of use, both with the pastel ice white and pure distilled with a drop of biocide.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking the pastel blue berry would really make this pop. Thoughts or opinions?


It shouldn't have any effect on anything, I had a 250ml bottle of blue berry and I used maybe 850ml of water with it and it's fine, there's pictures on my profile of my rig with the blue berry coolant in if you wanna look


----------



## rebelextrm02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> It shouldn't have any effect on anything, I had a 250ml bottle of blue berry and I used maybe 850ml of water with it and it's fine, there's pictures on my profile of my rig with the blue berry coolant in if you wanna look


That looks perfect. I just remember reading somewhere, a while back, that Mayhems had comented about the 3 to 1 dilution ratio was pretty much at the max of the fluids limits. He never specified what implications exceeding that ration might have. I just wanted to make sure it wouldn't compromise the antimicrobial qualities of the solution or cause particulate fallout.


----------



## whitie63

Can someone help me i would like to change out my hose and start using Mayhems. And would like some feed back on the best brand and type of hose I should buy so if anyone has a suggestion.



This is what I have now which is fine but it is kinda hard to know if you need to bleed air out if you can't see it


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> Can someone help me i would like to change out my hose and start using Mayhems. And would like some feed back on the best brand and type of hose I should buy so if anyone has a suggestion.
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I have now which is fine but it is kinda hard to know if you need to bleed air out if you can't see it


Primochill Advanced LRT is the recommended currently. Or use any norprene tube or acrylic.


----------



## M3TAl

Might order the rest of the parts for my very first loop in the next 24 hours, planning on using Mayhems Pastel Ice White. Got a question though. Will the 1Ltr be enough?

When testing the parts I already have (X2O 750 dualbay res/pump, EK VGA Supremacy, Phobya DP-600 pump, and fittings) in a test loop outside the system it takes just over 0.5Ltr to fill it up. Still need a CPU block, and 2x Alphacool NexXxos XT45's and 1x NexXxos ST30.

Will all this require a lot more than 1Ltr of fluid? Do I need to buy two bottles of the Mayhems concentrate for 2Ltr?

Here's what's planned for the loop:


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rebelextrm02*
> 
> What exactly does the pastel coolant do if it's dilluted just a little too much? I really want to use the pastel blue berry in my loop and now that I've added a gpu block and second radiator I'm about 2 Tbsp or roughly 29.5 mL over of pastel concentrate needed. I really don't want to have to buy a second bottle for such a small amount. I may end up going with the blue dye if it's too big of a deal. :/
> 
> Also, I'm quite impressed with how clear the Primochill Advanced LRT tubing is. Hopefully it holds up. The durelene I used didn't look so hot after a couple months of use, both with the pastel ice white and pure distilled with a drop of biocide.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking the pastel blue berry would really make this pop. Thoughts or opinions?


I think X1 Oil Black would look sick in that build!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I think X1 Oil Black would look sick in that build!


I think Pastel Black would look better in that loop personally.

Oil black is good for red/black rigs, but seeing as that's more of a black on black theme pastel black would be wicked.

That's assuming it's still available. Mayhems stopped making it a while ago so he could redo it, apparently the old design was far too prone issues involving Ph balance.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Might order the rest of the parts for my very first loop in the next 24 hours, planning on using Mayhems Pastel Ice White. Got a question though. Will the 1Ltr be enough?
> 
> When testing the parts I already have (X2O 750 dualbay res/pump, EK VGA Supremacy, Phobya DP-600 pump, and fittings) in a test loop outside the system it takes just over 0.5Ltr to fill it up. Still need a CPU block, and 2x Alphacool NexXxos XT45's and 1x NexXxos ST30.
> 
> Will all this require a lot more than 1Ltr of fluid? Do I need to buy two bottles of the Mayhems concentrate for 2Ltr?
> 
> Here's what's planned for the loop:


Hi,

First, nice loop but I would reconsider adding that external XT45. You already have 2 240mm inside for a CPU and a GPU. It's okay. Not that I don't like the "go overkill on rads" way but if it means that you have to go external i'm not that sure then. Just my 0.02 cents









Second, as for the coolant quantity, you should be okay with one bottle.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Might order the rest of the parts for my very first loop in the next 24 hours, planning on using Mayhems Pastel Ice White. Got a question though. Will the 1Ltr be enough?
> 
> When testing the parts I already have (X2O 750 dualbay res/pump, EK VGA Supremacy, Phobya DP-600 pump, and fittings) in a test loop outside the system it takes just over 0.5Ltr to fill it up. Still need a CPU block, and 2x Alphacool NexXxos XT45's and 1x NexXxos ST30.
> 
> Will all this require a lot more than 1Ltr of fluid? Do I need to buy two bottles of the Mayhems concentrate for 2Ltr?
> 
> Here's what's planned for the loop:


1 litre would be cuttin it really close and may not be quite enough.....I'd order 2 to be safe.

Couple questions though....why not a full cover gpu block? Why the external rad? Your 2 internal rads give enough cooling for two blocks....I'm also pretty against doing anything external


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Might order the rest of the parts for my very first loop in the next 24 hours, planning on using Mayhems Pastel Ice White. Got a question though. Will the 1Ltr be enough?
> 
> When testing the parts I already have (X2O 750 dualbay res/pump, EK VGA Supremacy, Phobya DP-600 pump, and fittings) in a test loop outside the system it takes just over 0.5Ltr to fill it up. Still need a CPU block, and 2x Alphacool NexXxos XT45's and 1x NexXxos ST30.
> 
> Will all this require a lot more than 1Ltr of fluid? Do I need to buy two bottles of the Mayhems concentrate for 2Ltr?
> 
> Here's what's planned for the loop:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


As said above if you only have cpu/1gpu in the loop the internal is just fine. I personally think external rads hanging off the back of the case looks tacky (just imo). Plus unless your house is nice and clean you will be cleaning it often!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 1 litre would be cuttin it really close and may not be quite enough.....I'd order 2 to be safe.
> 
> Couple questions though....why not a full cover gpu block? Why the external rad? Your 2 internal rads give enough cooling for two blocks....I'm also pretty against doing anything external


Also wanted to add... you want intake on rads pretty much always...you don't need to Worry bout case temp as much and tge air outside the case is always cooler so uou get better performance


----------



## rebelextrm02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> Can someone help me i would like to change out my hose and start using Mayhems. And would like some feed back on the best brand and type of hose I should buy so if anyone has a suggestion.
> 
> This is what I have now which is fine but it is kinda hard to know if you need to bleed air out if you can't see it


The recommendation is Primochill Advanced LRT. I recently switched to this but haven't used it long enough to recommend it myself. I previously used Durelene from Sidewinder and it did eventually change color and leach a little plasticizer after a couple months. The Advanced LRT is not supposed to do either of these and is what Mayhems himself has recommended. You can order it by the foot from Frozen CPU if you don't want/need a full 10 feet of it. I ordered 6 feet and had a foot left over with my dual rad, cpu, gpu, and bay res loop in my micro atx case, so I only spent $15 on tubing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Might order the rest of the parts for my very first loop in the next 24 hours, planning on using Mayhems Pastel Ice White. Got a question though. Will the 1Ltr be enough?
> 
> When testing the parts I already have (X2O 750 dualbay res/pump, EK VGA Supremacy, Phobya DP-600 pump, and fittings) in a test loop outside the system it takes just over 0.5Ltr to fill it up. Still need a CPU block, and 2x Alphacool NexXxos XT45's and 1x NexXxos ST30.
> 
> Will all this require a lot more than 1Ltr of fluid? Do I need to buy two bottles of the Mayhems concentrate for 2Ltr?
> 
> Here's what's planned for the loop:


That third rad is overkill. You could get away with two ST30s inside the case and be fine on temps. Two ST45s would be even more than enough. I have two XSPC RS240s with 1000rpm fans on them, which are lower performance than the ST30, in a loop with a 3570k at 4.7Ghz and a overvolted 660TI. At load (Valley Bench and Arkham City) my cpu never goes above 59*c and the gpu doesn't go over 40*c. You can see a pic of my setup a few posts up.

As for the coolant, with just two slim rads you would be cutting it reeeaaalllyy close with just 1L. I have the same res, pump, and gpu block with the two slim rads and I'm at ~1.1L to fill the whole loop in a micro atx case. With two thick rads or all three rads you'll be over the 1L requirement for sure.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I think Pastel Black would look better in that loop personally.
> 
> Oil black is good for red/black rigs, but seeing as that's more of a black on black theme pastel black would be wicked.
> 
> That's assuming it's still available. Mayhems stopped making it a while ago so he could redo it, apparently the old design was far too prone issues involving Ph balance.


Oil Black would be fine. I specifically didn't recommended the pastel black for said reason


----------



## Ovrclck

Anyone running X1 UV Oil Black? If so, is it more like a green/black as compared to just the Oil Black?


----------



## M3TAl

I realize it's overkill for the 3rd rad and most people hate the look of an external rad but here's the thing. Planning on 600-1000 RPM on the fans and we're talking about an 8350 that will be pushing 1.55V... in other words lots and lots of watts, considerably more than an Intel chip at similar OC. Also the 7870 XT will be on 1.3V and pulls pretty much same watts as an oc'ed overvolted 7950. I can live with the looks of the external rad if it will allow better temps and keep the fans 800 RPM'ish.

Why no full cover gpu block? Two reasons. First there isn't really a full cover block for the 7870 XT (this is Tahiti LE not a regular 7870, same chip as 7950 and 7970 but 256-bit bus and less SP's). Second a full cover block is only good for that card... I'd rather use a universal block, just my preference.

I'm the type of person who hold onto parts for a very, very long time... These rads will be in service for years. Whose to say I might not have a 2nd GPU 1-2 years from now?

I appreciate the advice, really I do but my mind is pretty much made up on using 3 rads.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I realize it's overkill for the 3rd rad and most people hate the look of an external rad but here's the thing. Planning on 600-1000 RPM on the fans and we're talking about an 8350 that will be pushing 1.55V... in other words lots and lots of watts, considerably more than an Intel chip at similar OC. Also the 7870 XT will be on 1.3V and pulls pretty much same watts as an oc'ed overvolted 7950. I can live with the looks of the external rad if it will allow better temps and keep the fans 800 RPM'ish.
> 
> Why no full cover gpu block? Two reasons. First there isn't really a full cover block for the 7870 XT (this is Tahiti LE not a regular 7870, same chip as 7950 and 7970 but 256-bit bus and less SP's). Second a full cover block is only good for that card... I'd rather use a universal block, just my preference.
> 
> I'm the type of person who hold onto parts for a very, very long time... These rads will be in service for years. Whose to say I might not have a 2nd GPU 1-2 years from now?
> 
> I appreciate the advice, really I do but my mind is pretty much made up on using 3 rads.


No problems but then I would go with a second bottle of coolant


----------



## Mayhem

Just to keep you all informed.

We no longer sponsoring our old ranges, these include Pastel and Aurora.

Some testers have been sent the new Aurora 2 for testing.

Pics below of a couple of test systems we are running.




We are testing quad pass rads, bay reservoirs and some other items that failed Aurora in the past. We are also testing a new booster liquid we have developed and the testers have been given this as well.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just to keep you all informed.
> 
> We no longer sponsoring our old ranges, these include Pastel and Aurora.
> 
> Some testers have been sent the new Aurora 2 for testing.
> 
> Pics below of a couple of test systems we are running.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are testing quad pass rads, bay reservoirs and some other items that failed Aurora in the past. We are also testing a new booster liquid we have developed and the testers have been given this as well.


very interesting....any estimates on release of Aurora 2?


----------



## Mayhem

not really were awaiting on some new equipment coming that will aid in the production process. All this gear has to be hand made for us as were not following any standards were setting them as we go along. ATM the beta samples will contain some contamination from the milling processes how ever with the new equipment this will stop it completely and give us a purer end product.


----------



## cyphon

cool cool. Keep us posted. Can't wait for the new stuff.

I will also be posting pics soon of the rig I have been workin on for awhile. Acrylic dual loop build with Pastel Orange and Pastel White goin


----------



## Stuntfly02

SO ive had my loop running for a few months now and I have come across my first problem with water cooling. I think I have an algae problem. It has been very very hard to get a good picture of this so I hope you are all able to see what is in these images.






As you can see it clearly on the piece of tubing there there is a blackish buildup forming. Yesterday I drained it enough to take the res apart and cleaned it out in an attempt so see if it is algae building up inside. Hopefully what I got off doesn't come back. I really really do not want to have to tear down and clean out my entire loop already. It is hard to see the buildup that is still there on the res. But I can take a q-tip and clean it off and it leaves the end of the swab blackish. The color of the film was almost greenish when I took the res apart yesterday. Sadly my camera wasn't handy so I didn't get any pics of the res with the film on it.

If this is algae what are my options on getting rid of it at this point without having to take the entire loop apart. Cause if I do that I will be getting all new tubing and possibly fittings. Which means I'm making my jump to acrylic tubing much sooner than anticipated.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> SO ive had my loop running for a few months now and I have come across my first problem with water cooling. I think I have an algae problem. It has been very very hard to get a good picture of this so I hope you are all able to see what is in these images.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it clearly on the piece of tubing there there is a blackish buildup forming. Yesterday I drained it enough to take the res apart and cleaned it out in an attempt so see if it is algae building up inside. Hopefully what I got off doesn't come back. I really really do not want to have to tear down and clean out my entire loop already. It is hard to see the buildup that is still there on the res. But I can take a q-tip and clean it off and it leaves the end of the swab blackish. The color of the film was almost greenish when I took the res apart yesterday. Sadly my camera wasn't handy so I didn't get any pics of the res with the film on it.
> 
> If this is algae what are my options on getting rid of it at this point without having to take the entire loop apart. Cause if I do that I will be getting all new tubing and possibly fittings. Which means I'm making my jump to acrylic tubing much sooner than anticipated.


Can you describe what you cleaned out? Was it chalky looking/feeling or like slime?

If it was chalky there is a very high probability that it is plasticizer

Looks like you have the UV Pastel, so algae is pretty hard to come by since Pastel has a good bit of biocides in there to prevent it from growing. Did you dilute it or did you do the appropriate 3:1 ratio water:concentrate?


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Can you describe what you cleaned out? Was it chalky looking/feeling or like slime?
> 
> If it was chalky there is a very high probability that it is plasticizer
> 
> Looks like you have the UV Pastel, so algae is pretty hard to come by since Pastel has a good bit of biocides in there to prevent it from growing. Did you dilute it or did you do the appropriate 3:1 ratio water:concentrate?


Its the Pastel UV Lime Yellow and I got it from mayhems as a tester. So it was a concentrate and I diluted it 3:1 with 750ml of Distilled Water. It was slimy and not chalky. I really regret not taking a picture of it at the time. I am using Primochill Advanced LRT tubing which is generally considered the best right now from everything I read so I don't think its a plasticizer issue.


----------



## Katawa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ficu*
> 
> Pastel Blue Berry


Oh my god, that's gorgeous.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Its the Pastel UV Lime Yellow and I got it from mayhems as a tester. So it was a concentrate and I diluted it 3:1 with 750ml of Distilled Water. It was slimy and not chalky. I really regret not taking a picture of it at the time. I am using Primochill Advanced LRT tubing which is generally considered the best right now from everything I read so I don't think its a plasticizer issue.


Yeah it probably isn't plasticizer then. Did you get it from him before it was officially released? Wondering if you got a batch that wasn't production ready and was missing biocides or something weird like that.......


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah it probably isn't plasticizer then. Did you get it from him before it was officially released? Wondering if you got a batch that wasn't production ready and was missing biocides or something weird like that.......


As Far as I know I got it prerelease. Mayhem didn't act like I would have to do anything special to it, like it was a production read product. I just got it as an early tester for the purpose of him using the pictures of my build.

I am really at a loss for what to do here if this is algae. I know I gotta drain the loop and flush things out at least. Distilled/Vinegar 80/20 or 90/10 mix I have heard works well to run through the system and clean out anything that may be there. I am praying that my waterblocks are not getting gunked up with this stuff. I really really really don't want to take them apart and clean them. I Honestly don't want to have to redo my loop at all. But It may just be time to get some UV green acrylic tubing and some new fittings. If the coolant is contaminated at this point I do not want to reuse it after draining my system to clean this crap that is building up out.

I'm appreciate the help so far. This was my first loop and ive only had the mayhems in it for 2 months. Its possible this started festering when I had just regular distilled water and a silver bullet from monsoon in the system. But that was for like only a week or 2 before mayhem sent the concentrate.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> As Far as I know I got it prerelease. Mayhem didn't act like I would have to do anything special to it, like it was a production read product. I just got it as an early tester for the purpose of him using the pictures of my build.
> 
> I am really at a loss for what to do here if this is algae. I know I gotta drain the loop and flush things out at least. Distilled/Vinegar 80/20 or 90/10 mix I have heard works well to run through the system and clean out anything that may be there. I am praying that my waterblocks are not getting gunked up with this stuff. I really really really don't want to take them apart and clean them. I Honestly don't want to have to redo my loop at all. But It may just be time to get some UV green acrylic tubing and some new fittings. If the coolant is contaminated at this point I do not want to reuse it after draining my system to clean this crap that is building up out.
> 
> I'm appreciate the help so far. This was my first loop and ive only had the mayhems in it for 2 months. Its possible this started festering when I had just regular distilled water and a silver bullet from monsoon in the system. But that was for like only a week or 2 before mayhem sent the concentrate.


Did you flush everything before putting in the pastel? If you didn't then that could have caused a problem. I personally don't like putting acid in my loop even to clean. If rather use a little bicarb and water to clean with.

What metals are in your loop?

Since you have a contamination, you are going to need to break down the loop and check everything out. It sucks but it is one of the things that water cooling has to deal with.

Also, reach out to mayhem directly if you haven't already especially if it is a pre release fluid


----------



## cyphon

finally my build is done! Dual loop w/ Pastel Orange and Pastel White. I am spamming all the threads so I am only going to put a couple in here. More pics in build log - http://www.overclock.net/t/1417692/build-log-crowbar


----------



## Mas

Out of curiosity, has anyone mixed the Aurora Supernova with the X1 Blood Red?

I've been playing around with the idea and am considering putting in an order.


----------



## stickg1

I think Mayhems is releasing a new line of Aurora with increased longevity soon.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> Out of curiosity, has anyone mixed the Aurora Supernova with the X1 Blood Red?
> 
> I've been playing around with the idea and am considering putting in an order.


That would dilute your Aurora Supernova which may cause your silver particles to drop out faster.
Out of curiosity, why would you want to mix it w/ Blood Red instead of adding red dye?


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Did you flush everything before putting in the pastel? If you didn't then that could have caused a problem. I personally don't like putting acid in my loop even to clean. If rather use a little bicarb and water to clean with.
> 
> What metals are in your loop?
> 
> Since you have a contamination, you are going to need to break down the loop and check everything out. It sucks but it is one of the things that water cooling has to deal with.
> 
> Also, reach out to mayhem directly if you haven't already especially if it is a pre release fluid


Ok so when I first built the loop I ran primochills sysprep through the system. Drained it, ran just DI in there for about an hour drained it filled it again and repeated that process. Then I filled it will DI and ran it for 1-2 Weeks. Only leaving it on while I was at the PC.. Drained the System, totally disassembled everything, rinsed things with fresh DI, mixed my coolant, rebuild my loop and then filled it with mayhems.

Metals in my loop are XSPC RX360,RS240, RX120, which are copper as far as I know. XSPC Raystorm CPU block which is copper. Then Swiftech Komodo HD7900 full cover blocks which im pretty sure are nickel plated. I have MAINLY monsoon compression fittings but there are a few bitspower, and one alphacool 5 way adapter that should all be brass.

I'm wondering if too many UV lights could be the cause of the problem....

I have sent mayhem a PM, but I just sent it to day and hes in England so prolly wont hear from him till tomorrow.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> finally my build is done! Dual loop w/ Pastel Orange and Pastel White. I am spamming all the threads so I am only going to put a couple in here. More pics in build log - http://www.overclock.net/t/1417692/build-log-crowbar


Good work sir! Well worth the wait. Love how the bottom acrylic tube has a mix of white and orange.
Looks like an optical illusion or some sort of a chameleon coolant...


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> Out of curiosity, has anyone mixed the Aurora Supernova with the X1 Blood Red?
> 
> I've been playing around with the idea and am considering putting in an order.


I had thought about it, since mayhems said if you run aurora through a filter to remove all the pearls it's basically X1 except twice as strong of coloring. On the flop side, it seems rather counter productive to mix X1 with it when you can just use the blood red dye they offer. Saves time with mixing complications, and you don't need to worry about mixing ratios, etc.

Mayhems posted a video of black Aurora with golden pearls a month or so ago, and that was pretty wicked. Let me see if I can find the video.

Edit: FOUND IT



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> the vid isnt a reasled product yet its some thing were working on.. dont get it confused with what out in the shops already. Aurora is a short term only fluid


Black Aurora Coolant: Has science gone too far?

[/Edit]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think Mayhems is releasing a new line of Aurora with increased longevity soon.


Well he sent out testing samples of Aurora + but I would hardly consider it to release soon. Mayhems like to take their sweet time with developing their coolants, but usually the end product is worth the wait. I wouldn't count on it releasing soon.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Ok so when I first built the loop I ran primochills sysprep through the system. Drained it, ran just DI in there for about an hour drained it filled it again and repeated that process. Then I filled it will DI and ran it for 1-2 Weeks. Only leaving it on while I was at the PC.. Drained the System, totally disassembled everything, rinsed things with fresh DI, mixed my coolant, rebuild my loop and then filled it with mayhems.
> 
> Metals in my loop are XSPC RX360,RS240, RX120, which are copper as far as I know. XSPC Raystorm CPU block which is copper. Then Swiftech Komodo HD7900 full cover blocks which im pretty sure are nickel plated. I have MAINLY monsoon compression fittings but there are a few bitspower, and one alphacool 5 way adapter that should all be brass.
> 
> I'm wondering if too many UV lights could be the cause of the problem....
> 
> I have sent mayhem a PM, but I just sent it to day and hes in England so prolly wont hear from him till tomorrow.


Well, I think your system was flushed properly








Shouldn't be any metal issues there either
I am out of guesses, lol. I am sure Mayhem will get back to you as soon as he can, lol. Sorry I couldn't help more


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> SO ive had my loop running for a few months now and I have come across my first problem with water cooling. I think I have an algae problem. It has been very very hard to get a good picture of this so I hope you are all able to see what is in these images.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it clearly on the piece of tubing there there is a blackish buildup forming. Yesterday I drained it enough to take the res apart and cleaned it out in an attempt so see if it is algae building up inside. Hopefully what I got off doesn't come back. I really really do not want to have to tear down and clean out my entire loop already. It is hard to see the buildup that is still there on the res. But I can take a q-tip and clean it off and it leaves the end of the swab blackish. The color of the film was almost greenish when I took the res apart yesterday. Sadly my camera wasn't handy so I didn't get any pics of the res with the film on it.
> 
> If this is algae what are my options on getting rid of it at this point without having to take the entire loop apart. Cause if I do that I will be getting all new tubing and possibly fittings. Which means I'm making my jump to acrylic tubing much sooner than anticipated.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I think your system was flushed properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shouldn't be any metal issues there either
> I am out of guesses, lol. I am sure Mayhem will get back to you as soon as he can, lol. Sorry I couldn't help more
Click to expand...

Did you have a biocide when you were running distilled for 2 weeks? May have been some algae buildup in that time.

I'd email mayhems directly, there should be an address on their website.


----------



## Mas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> That would dilute your Aurora Supernova which may cause your silver particles to drop out faster.
> Out of curiosity, why would you want to mix it w/ Blood Red instead of adding red dye?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I had thought about it, since mayhems said if you run aurora through a filter to remove all the pearls it's basically X1 except twice as strong of coloring. On the flop side, it seems rather counter productive to mix X1 with it when you can just use the blood red dye they offer. Saves time with mixing complications, and you don't need to worry about mixing ratios, etc.


The Aurora Supernova and the X1 Blood Red I was looking at are in the concentrated form.

http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/mayhems-aurora-supernova-coolant-250ml/

http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/mayhems-x1-blood-red-coolant/

I was thinking I'd Fill a loop with the Aurora Supernova and leave a couple hundred mills space in the res, then add the Blood Red concentrate to it until I achieved a desirable effect. I don't think that would dilute it much, do you?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> finally my build is done! Dual loop w/ Pastel Orange and Pastel White. I am spamming all the threads so I am only going to put a couple in here. More pics in build log - http://www.overclock.net/t/1417692/build-log-crowbar
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice job Cyphon!!!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> finally my build is done! Dual loop w/ Pastel Orange and Pastel White. I am spamming all the threads so I am only going to put a couple in here. More pics in build log - http://www.overclock.net/t/1417692/build-log-crowbar


Who made your SLI Connector?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Who made your SLI Connector?


It is just a plate that covers it, but *ColdZero* did it for me! They are pretty reasonably priced and they will do custom work for ya too!


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Well, I think your system was flushed properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shouldn't be any metal issues there either
> I am out of guesses, lol. I am sure Mayhem will get back to you as soon as he can, lol. Sorry I couldn't help more


I appreciate it man. I'm at a loss till Mayhem gets back to me. And even if I go acrylic tubing I am not sure I want to reuse this coolant at least. I this is algae I'm sure the coolant is contaminated.

I should maybe mention that I did initially flush my radiators with tap water. I ran it through them for a good hour to try and get as much of the particles that were in there out.

The funny thing about it is that I can watch it accumulate to an extent. I clean a bunch of it off a certain part of my reservoir earlier today. And its already covered in the stuff again. So maybe not algae and something is breaking down in the system.....

I did at one point filter the coolant through a coffee filter. I had to tear the loop down cause of some video card issues and there was some particles in there. Mainly the anodized blue from the threads of the fittings. There wasn't much but I wanted to get rid of it.

I will say that my temps have stayed same so far. So at least for now I don't think I have clogged channels on my waterblocks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Did you have a biocide when you were running distilled for 2 weeks? May have been some algae buildup in that time.
> 
> I'd email mayhems directly, there should be an address on their website.


I ran a monsoon silver bullet until I got mayhems coolant. If you don't know the silver bullet is a silver plug that they sell angled fittings that they can be used with. You screw the plug into the back of the fitting and the coolant flows over it as it goes through the fitting.

I have PMed mayhem directly on this site. His is still active on here so I am sure he will get back to me soon.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> The Aurora Supernova and the X1 Blood Red I was looking at are in the concentrated form.
> 
> http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/mayhems-aurora-supernova-coolant-250ml/
> 
> http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/mayhems-x1-blood-red-coolant/
> 
> I was thinking I'd Fill a loop with the Aurora Supernova and leave a couple hundred mills space in the res, then add the Blood Red concentrate to it until I achieved a desirable effect. I don't think that would dilute it much, do you?


Don't bother.

X1's color is achieved literally by adding dye to the X1 clear, which is why so many people mix their own custom colors.

I'm pretty sure mayhems offers a dye that's literally called blood red, which is probably the exact same thing in the X1 blood red.

Just use dyes with it.

When you start mixing different concentrates you risk getting unfavorable ratios that can lead to unforeseen problems/effects.


----------



## Eufawria

Trying to go for a Aqua/Cyan UV colour using the pastel range. I am thinking of getting some suggestion before I go and buy the wrong things even though I have thought this through.

1) Pastel Ice White with UV Blue/Clear Blue and some UV Green/Laser Green

2) Pastel UV White with some UV Green.

3) Don't really have one but here to take your suggestions


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eufawria*
> 
> Trying to go for a Aqua/Cyan UV colour using the pastel range. I am thinking of getting some suggestion before I go and buy the wrong things even though I have thought this through.
> 
> 1) Pastel Ice White with UV Blue/Clear Blue and some UV Green/Laser Green
> 
> 2) Pastel UV White with some UV Green.
> 
> 3) Don't really have one but here to take your suggestions


I wouldn't get UV white, and just go with Pastel UV White. Pastel UV White is pastel white with a crap ton of Clear/UV Blue. It takes a LOT of Clear/UV Blue dye to get pastel to glow properly, so buying white then mixing more clear/uvblue dye seems counter productive, unless of course you're trying to dull down the White/UV blue effect. I'm assuming you're not trying to dull it down since you are buying clear/uv blue dye with it.

Best thing to do would be to mix your pastel with the water, then isolate a small amount of that, like 50ml and use dyes to figure out what ratio makes for the best color effects.


----------



## Mas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Don't bother.
> 
> X1's color is achieved literally by adding dye to the X1 clear, which is why so many people mix their own custom colors.
> 
> I'm pretty sure mayhems offers a dye that's literally called blood red, which is probably the exact same thing in the X1 blood red.
> 
> Just use dyes with it.
> 
> When you start mixing different concentrates you risk getting unfavorable ratios that can lead to unforeseen problems/effects.


Hmm, I think I remember reading that they achieve the blood red colour by mixing red with blue, actually. I haven't been able to find a straight mayhems dye in blood red, at least not at any suppliers in my country.

The concentrates I'm looking at, Aurora Supernova, is 250ml to be mixed with 500ml of DI to make 750ml of coolant. The 250ml blood red concentrate says to mix 125ml with 875ml of DI to make 1L of coolant.

Since my loop holds almost 2L, and since Aurora Supernova is basically X1 with the particles added, I think adding the two should be safe since they are using the same biocide/corrosive inhibitors right? The proportions should stay the same since mixing the two together is about the same volume as my loop holds.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> Hmm, I think I remember reading that they achieve the blood red colour by mixing red with blue, actually. I haven't been able to find a straight mayhems dye in blood red, at least not at any suppliers in my country.
> 
> The concentrates I'm looking at, Aurora Supernova, is 250ml to be mixed with 500ml of DI to make 750ml of coolant. The 250ml blood red concentrate says to mix 125ml with 875ml of DI to make 1L of coolant.
> 
> Since my loop holds almost 2L, and since Aurora Supernova is basically X1 with the particles added, I think adding the two should be safe since they are using the same biocide/corrosive inhibitors right? The proportions should stay the same since mixing the two together is about the same volume as my loop holds.


The problem is you're diluting Aurora.... Diluting nanofluids causes them to fall out of suspension... Mayhems Aurora already has significant issues with staying in suspension. You really don't want to add more problems than are already there. Please read through the Aurora Wiki if you haven't already.

The longest it's been in a loop IS indeed over a year, but it has also been in suspension in some loops for less than 2 days.

It is not a standard use concentrate, and is for events and photowork, or for rigs that you are willing to design around the concentrate.


----------



## Mas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> The problem is you're diluting Aurora.... Diluting nanofluids causes them to fall out of suspension... Mayhems Aurora already has significant issues with staying in suspension. You really don't want to add more problems than are already there. Please read through the Aurora Wiki if you haven't already.
> 
> The longest it's been in a loop IS indeed over a year, but it has also been in suspension in some loops for less than 2 days.
> 
> It is not a standard use concentrate, and is for events and photowork, or for rigs that you are willing to design around the concentrate.


Ah, right. Oh well, guess I'll just stick with the blood red by itself. Hope they make a blood red version of Aurora 2.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> Ah, right. Oh well, guess I'll just stick with the blood red by itself. Hope they make a blood red version of Aurora 2.


You know... my first reaction to that is "Doubtful, as there wasn't a very wide color range with Aurora"

Then I look at the Aurora Black/Gold and think, well damn.

Then I think about the fact that they have developed UV Reactive Nano Particles, and think: THE POSSIBILITIES ARE ENDLESS!!!

Then I try to keep bottle up my excitement because I have absolutely no idea how long I'll have to wait for these.

So who knows what crazy concoctions our mad scientists at Mayhems will produce.

I'm sure you could fairly easily mix Blood Red Aurora using dyes. Just mix your aurora, and get a small sample and test on that is measurable, say 50ml. Once you know your mixing ratios, upscale it.


----------



## KrazyKap

Hey, hoping for a little help here!









Anyone know what will give me a colour closest to this:
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0198/1460/products/lc3772126_1024x1024.jpg?2372

for full time use?

This is where I will buy from:
http://techworld.co.nz/coolant-c-1_363_372.html


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KrazyKap*
> 
> Hey, hoping for a little help here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know what will give me a colour closest to this:
> http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0198/1460/products/lc3772126_1024x1024.jpg?2372
> 
> for full time use?
> 
> This is where I will buy from:
> http://techworld.co.nz/coolant-c-1_363_372.html


I'd do the purple pastel. If you need to darken it a bit, some red and blue dye ill do the job


----------



## MR-e

not knowing how much water my loop will take, is there a proper mix ratio for x1 concentrate? my plan was to fill most of the loop with distilled water and add the x1 near the end until i get the desired color. would this be advisable? or should i fill a bottle with distilled and mix the x1 before filling the loop.

thanks!


----------



## Stuntfly02

Generally the concentrates are sold to be mixed in a 3:1 ratio with distilled water. 750ml of water to 250ml of concentrate. Diluting it any further can effect the biocides and antimicrobials (if any) in the coolant.

Unless you plan to have more components than me or a much larger reservoir 2 Liters of coolant should be more than enough. so 2x 250ml concentrate and 2x 750ml of distilled water. If you need more than 2 Liters total you have some massive system..


----------



## MR-e

hmm so 3:1 eh, i may have made the mistake of ordering only 1 bottle of concentrate :S hopefully it will be enough to cover the loop consisting of:

1x raystorm cpu block
1x hydro copper gpu block
1x 240mm rad
1x 120mm rad
1x 85ml res
very short tubing runs


----------



## Stuntfly02

It MIGHT be enough. I would order a second bottle just to be safe.

I have 2 Swiftech Komodo HD7900 GPU blocks
XSPC Raystorm CPU block.
XSPC RX360, RS240 and RX120 Radiators
Quite a bit of tubing and and an EK-RES X3-150(holds 240ml of fluid). My loop uses aproximately 1.5L maybe closer to 1.6L.

There are pics in my sig to give an idea of how big my loop is. Size of your case will really make the difference. The waterblocks don't hold a lot of water. The radiators CAN depending on the size.


----------



## kimoswabi

Mayhems X1 Concentrate will make 2L of coolant. You will need to mix one X1 concentrate bottle (250mL) with 1.75L distilled water to make 2L.
One bottle of X1 concentrate will be more than enough to fill your loop.
Please do not pour the concentrate into your loop. Mix your coolant in a separate bottle before adding the coolant into your loop.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Mayhems X1 Concentrate will make 2L of coolant. You will need to mix one X1 concentrate bottle (250mL) with 1.75L distilled water to make 2L.
> One bottle of X1 concentrate will be more than enough to fill your loop.
> Please do not pour the concentrate into your loop. Mix your coolant in a separate bottle before adding the coolant into your loop.


Ok so the X1 has different ratio than Pastel, I prolly should of said go look at the product description. Either way good info


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Hey guys, I'm preparing for my first build and I'll be using Mayhems.

Theme is black & white with a hint of green.

My sleeving will have a few bits of toxic green in them (mdpc) and I was wondering if that matches the Pastel Mint Green dye well?


----------



## akira749

It should be a near perfect match


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm preparing for my first build and I'll be using Mayhems.
> 
> Theme is black & white with a hint of green.
> 
> My sleeving will have a few bits of toxic green in them (mdpc) and I was wondering if that matches the Pastel Mint Green dye well?


This is about what mint-green pastel will look like in your rig. Not the greatest photo, and didn't have a chance to fully color correct it, but it should give you an idea:



Its more or less the same shade as in the picture (perhaps a bit brighter/lighter overall). It would be a pretty good match from what I can tell about Toxic Green MDPC. If its not, your alternative is Pastel White + Green/Yellow die.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Thanks! That does look the same, I have the sleeving already.

So that goes on my list


----------



## Mayhem

Last night Mayhems went to the Star Radio North East Business Awards http://www.thisisstar.co.uk/community/businessawards.php.



Mayhems Won 2 Awards one for "Innovation" and "Best use of Technology Award". Me and Steve and all our staff are over the moon about this. I would like to say thank you to All our staff, re sellers, consumers and companies we have worked with and are working with. With out your support this would never be possible. This year has been an excellent year, next year WILL be better ......

Mick


----------



## akira749

Congrats on the award!!! You deserve it!!


----------



## cyphon

Congrats mayhems!


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## tSgt

Well deserved !
Congratz


----------



## Joyride

Got a question for you guys-

I mixed UV laser green and purple dyes and over the past month, I've seen a lot of the purple disappearing. Any idea if this has to do with the pH of my loop or does purple commonly separate out? I'm using Koolance QD4 quick disconnects, so I'm wondering if the purple dye is getting gunked up inside those links. I wish I posted a pic of what the loop looked like before but I basically added something like 30 drops of purple just to get it back to its original color.


----------



## kpoeticg

What kind of tubing are you running? Dye disappearing could easily be from PH or Plasticizer. Also, what color is the Green and Purple making?


----------



## Joyride

I'm using Primochill Advanced LRT, so i'm highly doubting plasticizer here. Green and purple makes black and under UV light, somewhat UV aqua color. I rinsed out all of my components before setting up the loop but never flushed with bicarb. What is the optimal pH? Totally unrelated question, should the pH be different for dyes vs pastel coolant?

Before:


After:


----------



## Kokin

Does anyone know if it is safe to use Dead Water biocide (5% Copper Sulfate) in a loop with just distilled water and some drops Mayhems Blue dye? It has been working fine with my current loop of just pure distilled water.


----------



## devsfan1830

This is a 5% mix of XT-1 with distilled water and Primoflex Advanced LRT tube. Been in the loop since mid June. Got a green water line and there a hint of very light cloudiness as the water spills in but the liquid as a whole is fairly clear. The tubes witha light through em look a touch hazy. The deep blue makes it a bit hard to gauge and see in the vid. So far its performed WAY better than ICE Think its time for a drain clean and refill? Should it have lasted longer?

http://youtu.be/qx7L5p5YQ3A


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Does anyone know if it is safe to use Dead Water biocide (5% Copper Sulfate) in a loop with just distilled water and some drops Mayhems Blue dye? It has been working fine with my current loop of just pure distilled water.


It works fine. I did the same thing with Mayhems Biocide Extreme, which is basically a copper sulphate additive with some descaling stuffs in it.

Be advised CopperSulphate will cause deterioration of any UV effects in the coolant, so don't plan on using UV coolants with copper sulphate.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It works fine. I did the same thing with Mayhems Biocide Extreme, which is basically a copper sulphate additive with some descaling stuffs in it.
> 
> Be advised CopperSulphate will cause deterioration of any UV effects in the coolant, so don't plan on using UV coolants with copper sulphate.


Cool thanks for the confirmation and tip. +rep


----------



## Th0rn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Does anyone know if it is safe to use Dead Water biocide (5% Copper Sulfate) in a loop with just distilled water and some drops Mayhems Blue dye? It has been working fine with my current loop of just pure distilled water.


yes it will be fine.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think Mayhems is releasing a new line of Aurora with increased longevity soon.


So I've been subbed to this thread for a long time because I'm curious about getting this. However I keep seeing that it's not for long term.

Does it stain your tubes?
Does it clog your pump or blocks?
Does the crystal effect leave after a few weeks or month so you need to re do it?

And what is the best kind/combo to get that is both non staining / longest lasting?


----------



## Mayhem

The aurora 2 is under test right now with several testers world wide they have been told to keep quiet and not post info about it. We will leave it with them a good few weeks and they are all using complex systems.

From my own testing im running it in 4 systems the most complex is running-

EK CPU block. OC Force Block, 7970 Block, Phobya Bay res with the inlet and out let port 1/2 way up the back of the res and a Phobya Tube res, D5 and aqua computer flow monitor and quad pass 360mm rad on its side (made by us) and finally some really bad tubing This system has now been running on off for over 1 month with very little drop out. The other system comprise of different set ups as well to see how things go. Other test systems have EK spin bay res, and several other bay reservoirs.

Weve noticed it is best to run the pump between 3 and 5, The Aurora 2 effect picks up much faster than in the past. How ever we wish for it to last much longer but we've been analyzing the proprieties of the Aurora 2 (after we've done out bit to it and crushed it down further) and it will have a limited life span depending on which equipment you use and how much abuse the aurora gets. It will be a lot longer than Aurora though.

The temps are 0.5 to 0.8c above water. Every thing that failed Aurora in the past is being tested to see what it can do.


----------



## cyphon

Sounds like progress!

When it is ready I may have to drain out some pastel and throw in the new aurora


----------



## darwing

How long does your aura typically last with the crystals still being vibrant?

As well nobody answered my question about it clogging your blocks?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> How long does your aura typically last with the crystals still being vibrant?
> 
> As well nobody answered my question about it clogging your blocks?


That depends on the loop. Mayhems has stated he's seen it run strong in loops for over a year, he's also seen it die out in less than two days.

They don't clog your blocks. The current pearls are 60nanometers, if memory serves accurate. The ideology that those could miraculously bind together in a big enough chunk to clock your block is just simply not possible... The issue is the pearls get caught in every nook and cranny, or flow-deadzone.

Until details come in about Aurora +, or whatever he decides to call it, using aurora requires you to pretty much build your loop around the coolant. It is a very high maintenance coolant, so every part of the loop would need to be ideal.

Refer to Mayhems Aurora wiki for details on how to plan such a loop:

http://mayhems-aurora.wikispaces.com/


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> That depends on the loop. Mayhems has stated he's seen it run strong in loops for over a year, he's also seen it die out in less than two days.
> 
> They don't clog your blocks. The current pearls are 60nanometers, if memory serves accurate. The ideology that those could miraculously bind together in a big enough chunk to clock your block is just simply not possible... The issue is the pearls get caught in every nook and cranny, or flow-deadzone.
> 
> Until details come in about Aurora +, or whatever he decides to call it, using aurora requires you to pretty much build your loop around the coolant. It is a very high maintenance coolant, so every part of the loop would need to be ideal.
> 
> Refer to Mayhems Aurora wiki for details on how to plan such a loop:
> 
> http://mayhems-aurora.wikispaces.com/


All of this.

With current aurora you really don't want a complex loop at all and it isn't recommended to be kept in your loop for a long period of time. It doesn't clog your blocks, but the particles can get trapped in the small pits and valleys inside the tube, which is something I've seen a lot.

If you want to run it for a show or lan party, go for it. If you want your main coolant, then expect to design the loop around it as ZytheEKs said.

All of that being said, it looks like the second revision of Aurora will fix some of these things and allow for more complicated loops and more longevity in the systems. Unfortunately, the fluid is still in testing and the release is unknown


----------



## Stuntfly02

It would be nice to get a reply from Mayhem or Th0rn0 on this. It has been over a week since I first posted the issue. I send you a PM mayhem and you tell me to send you an email so I do. Well it has been 5 days and you have completely ignored that email I sent you. I do not know if it is common practice for your company to just ignore people having an issue with what seems to be your coolant. Maybe cause I was given it as a sample you are not concerned with it. But I need to know if the sample you sent to me was production ready. As in had all the biocides and additives in it or not. Over a week since my first post on here and 5 days since I first emailed you. This is unacceptable customer service considering you "hired" someone to handle this thread and they are barely active in it. The people who have bought your products in the past have been more helpful than you our your companies representative. Mayhem I have sent you another email and I am posting basically the same thing here. Since directly contacting you does me no good maybe your hardware rep can do their job.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> SO ive had my loop running for a few months now and I have come across my first problem with water cooling. I think I have an algae problem. It has been very very hard to get a good picture of this so I hope you are all able to see what is in these images.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see it clearly on the piece of tubing there there is a blackish buildup forming. Yesterday I drained it enough to take the res apart and cleaned it out in an attempt so see if it is algae building up inside. Hopefully what I got off doesn't come back. I really really do not want to have to tear down and clean out my entire loop already. It is hard to see the buildup that is still there on the res. But I can take a q-tip and clean it off and it leaves the end of the swab blackish. The color of the film was almost greenish when I took the res apart yesterday. Sadly my camera wasn't handy so I didn't get any pics of the res with the film on it.
> 
> If this is algae what are my options on getting rid of it at this point without having to take the entire loop apart. Cause if I do that I will be getting all new tubing and possibly fittings. Which means I'm making my jump to acrylic tubing much sooner than anticipated.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Its the Pastel UV Lime Yellow and I got it from mayhems as a tester. So it was a concentrate and I diluted it 3:1 with 750ml of Distilled Water. It was slimy and not chalky. I really regret not taking a picture of it at the time. I am using Primochill Advanced LRT tubing which is generally considered the best right now from everything I read so I don't think its a plasticizer issue.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> As Far as I know I got it prerelease. Mayhem didn't act like I would have to do anything special to it, like it was a production read product. I just got it as an early tester for the purpose of him using the pictures of my build.
> 
> I am really at a loss for what to do here if this is algae. I know I gotta drain the loop and flush things out at least. Distilled/Vinegar 80/20 or 90/10 mix I have heard works well to run through the system and clean out anything that may be there. I am praying that my waterblocks are not getting gunked up with this stuff. I really really really don't want to take them apart and clean them. I Honestly don't want to have to redo my loop at all. But It may just be time to get some UV green acrylic tubing and some new fittings. If the coolant is contaminated at this point I do not want to reuse it after draining my system to clean this crap that is building up out.
> 
> I'm appreciate the help so far. This was my first loop and ive only had the mayhems in it for 2 months. Its possible this started festering when I had just regular distilled water and a silver bullet from monsoon in the system. But that was for like only a week or 2 before mayhem sent the concentrate.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Ok so when I first built the loop I ran primochills sysprep through the system. Drained it, ran just DI in there for about an hour drained it filled it again and repeated that process. Then I filled it will DI and ran it for 1-2 Weeks. Only leaving it on while I was at the PC.. Drained the System, totally disassembled everything, rinsed things with fresh DI, mixed my coolant, rebuild my loop and then filled it with mayhems.
> 
> Metals in my loop are XSPC RX360,RS240, RX120, which are copper as far as I know. XSPC Raystorm CPU block which is copper. Then Swiftech Komodo HD7900 full cover blocks which im pretty sure are nickel plated. I have MAINLY monsoon compression fittings but there are a few bitspower, and one alphacool 5 way adapter that should all be brass.
> 
> I'm wondering if too many UV lights could be the cause of the problem....
> 
> I have sent mayhem a PM, but I just sent it to day and hes in England so prolly wont hear from him till tomorrow.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> I appreciate it man. I'm at a loss till Mayhem gets back to me. And even if I go acrylic tubing I am not sure I want to reuse this coolant at least. I this is algae I'm sure the coolant is contaminated.
> 
> I should maybe mention that I did initially flush my radiators with tap water. I ran it through them for a good hour to try and get as much of the particles that were in there out.
> 
> The funny thing about it is that I can watch it accumulate to an extent. I clean a bunch of it off a certain part of my reservoir earlier today. And its already covered in the stuff again. So maybe not algae and something is breaking down in the system.....
> 
> I did at one point filter the coolant through a coffee filter. I had to tear the loop down cause of some video card issues and there was some particles in there. Mainly the anodized blue from the threads of the fittings. There wasn't much but I wanted to get rid of it.
> 
> I will say that my temps have stayed same so far. So at least for now I don't think I have clogged channels on my waterblocks.
> I ran a monsoon silver bullet until I got mayhems coolant. If you don't know the silver bullet is a silver plug that they sell angled fittings that they can be used with. You screw the plug into the back of the fitting and the coolant flows over it as it goes through the fitting.
> 
> I have PMed mayhem directly on this site. His is still active on here so I am sure he will get back to me soon.


----------



## stickg1

I had a situation recently where I had plasticizer issues. I had ordered Primochill Advance LRT and P-PCs sent me PRO and my loop got all messed up. Where did you get your tubing?


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I had a situation recently where I had plasticizer issues. I had ordered Primochill Advance LRT and P-PCs sent me PRO and my loop got all messed up. Where did you get your tubing?


If this was directed at me, i got it from FrozenCPU. There should be no reason they sent the wrong thing. It should be shipped to them packed the way Primochill sends it to them. In the 10ft pre cut length inside a sealed box.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> If this was directed at me, i got it from FrozenCPU. There should be no reason they sent the wrong thing. *It should be shipped to them packed the way Primochill sends it to them. In the 10ft pre cut length inside a sealed box.*


That's probably the way it was when he got it. For the most part Primochill Pro LRT and Primochill Advanced LRT both come in a plastic container, with a sticker on it.



In all fairness given that the only difference is a sticker, it may have been simple clerical error.

That entire Pro LRT to Advanced LRT had that happening a lot amongst retailers.

You have my condolences on this liquid issue though, it would be rather irritating.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I had a situation recently where I had plasticizer issues. I had ordered Primochill Advance LRT and P-PCs sent me PRO and my loop got all messed up. Where did you get your tubing?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> If this was directed at me, i got it from FrozenCPU. There should be no reason they sent the wrong thing. It should be shipped to them packed the way Primochill sends it to them. In the 10ft pre cut length inside a sealed box.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> That's probably the way it was when he got it. For the most part Primochill Pro LRT and Primochill Advanced LRT both come in a plastic container, with a sticker on it.
> 
> 
> 
> In all fairness given that the only difference is a sticker, it may have been simple clerical error.
> 
> That entire Pro LRT to Advanced LRT had that happening a lot amongst retailers.


If I am not mistaken, Stuntfly was the one where he said it was slimy as opposed to the chalky plasticizer. Also, my experience with plasticizer, you cannot just swab it off with a q-tip, you have to get something a little more abrasive.

Just to make sure Stuntfly, did it look like this?



Or like this:


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> If I am not mistaken, Stuntfly was the one where he said it was slimy as opposed to the chalky plasticizer. Also, my experience with plasticizer, you cannot just swab it off with a q-tip, you have to get something a little more abrasive.
> 
> Just to make sure Stuntfly, did it look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> Or like this:


I have yet to tear down the loop. I am waiting on mayhem to get back to me. I need to find out if the coolant had all the production stuff in it before it went out to me. If he doesn't get back to me this week ill be tearing it down after this weekend. The stuff was slimy and not chalky and is only on that 1 piece of tubing at least as far as what I can visably see without breaking the entire thing down. I guess I need to at least drain it enough to get a picture of what is actually in the reservoir. The issue is ONLY visable under the UV lights so I do not think its the plasticizer, but I am no professional. I'm going to shutdown now and get an image of the res with no coolant in it.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Stuff looks a little more white in the pics than it was to the naked eye, but here is what was all over the res. Under the UV lighting its a blackish color. I was able to remove it all just by running a paper towel around the inside. Had to wet it for a few parts but it all came out with no real effort.

Ignore the black dots. Those are on the outside of the res and it was marks so I could see if the stuff was spreading.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Stuff looks a little more white in the pics than it was to the naked eye, but here is what was all over the res. Under the UV lighting its a blackish color. I was able to remove it all just by running a paper towel around the inside. Had to wet it for a few parts but it all came out with no real effort.
> 
> Ignore the black dots. Those are on the outside of the res and it was marks so I could see if the stuff was spreading.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


hmmm, ok...did you rinse it at all? Also, once it is dry, can you describe the texture? Once final thing, are those dark spots on the inside or outisde of the res?


----------



## Stuntfly02

My promochill advanced LRT came in a box and I had to cut the seal you see in the picture.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> hmmm, ok...did you rinse it at all? Also, once it is dry, can you describe the texture? Once final thing, are those dark spots on the inside or outisde of the res?


Spots are outside, I put those there to mark where the buildup was so I could see its spread rate or if it was spreading any further. Right now its slimy. I scraped some off and it is sitting in a plastic tray like a petri dish. I'll give it an hour and see what the texture is like. I rinsed it yes, it doesn't come off with just running water over it. I used a paper towel and just swiped it off. No effort at all to remove it. THe res is now back in my machine after i rinsed it with what I have left of my primochill sysprep mix and then i pour regular distilled over it to rinse it off.


----------



## Toad Boy

I am running Pastel Ice White in my loop. What is the best way to illuminate the coolant inside my EK 250 res?

I have tried Bright white led's behind the res, but it doesn't penetrate at all. I am hesitant to use cold cathodes because of the cabling mess.


----------



## stickg1

Seems pretty bad, looks oily but I'm not sure what could be in the dye you used to make that oily film. Not ruling anything out but it seems like everything could be in play, which I understand can be annoying when trying to troubleshoot.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toad Boy*
> 
> I am running Pastel Ice White in my loop. What is the best way to illuminate the coolant inside my EK 250 res?
> 
> I have tried Bright white led's behind the res, but it doesn't penetrate at all. I am hesitant to use cold cathodes because of the cabling mess.


Monsoon makes something called lightport fittings which accept a LED plug. Here is a link to a post about the plugs.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/25/monsoon-light-port/


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Seems pretty bad, looks oily but I'm not sure what could be in the dye you used to make that oily film. Not ruling anything out but it seems like everything could be in play, which I understand can be annoying when trying to troubleshoot.


I did not use any dyes. That is Mayhems Pastel UV Lime Yellow. I got it as a sample from him as far as I know as a prerelease Item. I just had to take some pics for him and let him use them on like his facebook page.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Spots are outside, I put those there to mark where the buildup was so I could see its spread rate or if it was spreading any further. Right now its slimy. I scraped some off and it is sitting in a plastic tray like a petri dish. I'll give it an hour and see what the texture is like. I rinsed it yes, it doesn't come off with just running water over it. I used a paper towel and just swiped it off. No effort at all to remove it. THe res is now back in my machine after i rinsed it with what I have left of my primochill sysprep mix and then i pour regular distilled over it to rinse it off.


Ok. Please post pics and updates when it has dried.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toad Boy*
> 
> I am running Pastel Ice White in my loop. What is the best way to illuminate the coolant inside my EK 250 res?
> 
> I have tried Bright white led's behind the res, but it doesn't penetrate at all. I am hesitant to use cold cathodes because of the cabling mess.


Pastel is very very opaque and you are going to have a really really hard time illuminating it. It is designed to be opaque, which gives it its uniqueness. You are probably better off trying to accent light the res with laser LEDs or something. Only other bet would be to get the UV pastel and make it glow with UV lamps. The glow effect on white is blue, however.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Monsoon makes something called lightport fittings which accept a LED plug. Here is a link to a post about the plugs.
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2012/11/25/monsoon-light-port/


I have some and they work best with colored LEDs in clear coolant.
Unfortunately the pastel coolants will not let the light emit through.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toad Boy*
> 
> I am running Pastel Ice White in my loop. What is the best way to illuminate the coolant inside my EK 250 res?
> 
> I have tried Bright white led's behind the res, but it doesn't penetrate at all. I am hesitant to use cold cathodes because of the cabling mess.


It's rather hard to illuminate pastel from behind the coolant, as it was designed to be opaque. LED plugs might help a little, but you really want something on the outside. They make little LED spotlights you can mount on the inside of your chassis with double sided sticky tape. Those might be your lucky charm in trying to get it illuminated.

Pics would probably help a lot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Stuff looks a little more white in the pics than it was to the naked eye, but here is what was all over the res. Under the UV lighting its a blackish color. I was able to remove it all just by running a paper towel around the inside. Had to wet it for a few parts but it all came out with no real effort.
> 
> Ignore the black dots. Those are on the outside of the res and it was marks so I could see if the stuff was spreading.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If you still have that gunk sample in a petri dish, pop some water in there and put it in direct sunlight. If it grows then it's algae. That would be a simple way of figuring that out.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It's rather hard to illuminate pastel from behind the coolant, as it was designed to be opaque. LED plugs might help a little, but you really want something on the outside. They make little LED spotlights you can mount on the inside of your chassis with double sided sticky tape. Those might be your lucky charm in trying to get it illuminated.
> 
> Pics would probably help a lot.
> *If you still have that gunk sample in a petri dish, pop some water in there and put it in direct sunlight. If it grows then it's algae. That would be a simple way of figuring that out.*


Thats actually a really good idea.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Well no matter what I am getting rid of my normal tubing and going acrylic. I just don't know at this point if I am going clear or UV Green. I really wish Mayhem would get back to me. Like a week since my initial post. Th0rn0 who is the hardware rep he appointed to this forum has said nothing on the issue. I sent mayhem a PM, he said they were really busy and to send him an email. Well that was 5 days ago and he has not replied. I sent him another email today and I made it clear i was rather irritated with the total lack of customer support I was receiving. I really really hope he responds soon so I can decide what is going to happen.

If this is algae would you all agree that the coolant is most likely contaminated at this point and shouldn't be reused?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Well no matter what I am getting rid of my normal tubing and going acrylic. I just don't know at this point if I am going clear or UV Green. I really wish Mayhem would get back to me. Like a week since my initial post. Th0rn0 who is the hardware rep he appointed to this forum has said nothing on the issue. I sent mayhem a PM, he said they were really busy and to send him an email. Well that was 5 days ago and he has not replied. I sent him another email today and I made it clear i was rather irritated with the total lack of customer support I was receiving. I really really hope he responds soon so I can decide what is going to happen.
> 
> If this is algae would you all agree that the coolant is most likely contaminated at this point and shouldn't be reused?


One of the reasons Mayhem appointed Th0rn0 was because he was stepping back more into the development arm and handle less of the customer facing stuff. They do have several products they are working on, so I am sure he is busy. As far as Th0rn0 goes, idk....

If it is algae then I wouldn't use the coolant again, mainly because it would be missing the biocides and who knows what else is missing. If it is plasticizer, you will definitely want to filter it well before reusing. If it is algae, I am sure that mayhem would send you some new fluids. If it is plasticizer, I'd call Primochill and ask them what happened. Is the tube really flexible or a bit stiff? Also is it crystal clear, or pretty clear


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> One of the reasons Mayhem appointed Th0rn0 was because he was stepping back more into the development arm and handle less of the customer facing stuff. They do have several products they are working on, so I am sure he is busy. As far as Th0rn0 goes, idk....
> 
> If it is algae then I wouldn't use the coolant again, mainly because it would be missing the biocides and who knows what else is missing. If it is plasticizer, you will definitely want to filter it well before reusing. If it is algae, I am sure that mayhem would send you some new fluids. If it is plasticizer, I'd call Primochill and ask them what happened. Is the tube really flexible or a bit stiff? Also is it crystal clear, or pretty clear


As I was a "tester" for it I would not expect him to send me new product. I didn't pay for it in the first place so again I wouldn't expect a replacement. Tubing is still really flexible and I can squeeze it almost closed rather easily. Its as soft a the little bit of tubing I did not use. The last time I had to drain the system which was about 3 weeks ago when i got my final video card replacement. My tubing was still really clear. I work with tubing every day in my job and I know how tubing gets when the plasticizer start to go. It gets really hard and almost impossible to bend unless its heated up and then its still hard. And it turns milky or smokey.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> As I was a "tester" for it I would not expect him to send me new product. I didn't pay for it in the first place so again I wouldn't expect a replacement. Tubing is still really flexible and I can squeeze it almost closed rather easily. Its as soft a the little bit of tubing I did not use. The last time I had to drain the system which was about 3 weeks ago when i got my final video card replacement. My tubing was still really clear. I work with tubing every day in my job and I know how tubing gets when the plasticizer start to go. It gets really hard and almost impossible to bend unless its heated up and then its still hard. And it turns milky or smokey.


Right...reason I was asking about the softness and clearness of the tube is because there is a noticeable difference between the PRO LRT and Advance LRT in both clearness and stiffness.

Left Advanced, Right PRO


Squeezing Advanced


Squeezing PRO


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Right...reason I was asking about the softness and clearness of the tube is because there is a noticeable difference between the PRO LRT and Advance LRT in both clearness and stiffness.
> 
> Left Advanced, Right PRO
> 
> 
> Squeezing Advanced
> 
> 
> Squeezing PRO


Pro seems a little softer from what i see in the pics. My tubing also has warm fluid running through it which will make it a LITTLE softer than when it is room temp.

And I tried to get a pic of the sample of the stuff i removed from the res but my camera can not take a detailed enough image. Its to blurry and you cant tell what it is. It was still a little slimey and by no means chalky


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Pro seems a little softer from what i see in the pics. My tubing also has warm fluid running through it which will make it a LITTLE softer than when it is room temp.
> 
> And I tried to get a pic of the sample of the stuff i removed from the res but my camera can not take a detailed enough image. Its to blurry and you cant tell what it is. It was still a little slimey and by no means chalky


Pro is more soft yeah. The warm fluid would soften it up true.

When it is sunny tomorrow try the illumination thing that ZytheEKs mentioned. Should give a firm conclusion to the case lol


----------



## Arm3nian

Does anyone have pics or experiences with the black pastel? Thanks









Going acrylic tubing btw.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Well no matter what I am getting rid of my normal tubing and going acrylic. I just don't know at this point if I am going clear or UV Green. I really wish Mayhem would get back to me. Like a week since my initial post. Th0rn0 who is the hardware rep he appointed to this forum has said nothing on the issue. I sent mayhem a PM, he said they were really busy and to send him an email. Well that was 5 days ago and he has not replied. I sent him another email today and I made it clear i was rather irritated with the total lack of customer support I was receiving. I really really hope he responds soon so I can decide what is going to happen.
> 
> If this is algae would you all agree that the coolant is most likely contaminated at this point and shouldn't be reused?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> One of the reasons Mayhem appointed Th0rn0 was because he was stepping back more into the development arm and handle less of the customer facing stuff. They do have several products they are working on, so I am sure he is busy. As far as Th0rn0 goes, idk....
> 
> If it is algae then I wouldn't use the coolant again, mainly because it would be missing the biocides and who knows what else is missing. If it is plasticizer, you will definitely want to filter it well before reusing. If it is algae, I am sure that mayhem would send you some new fluids. If it is plasticizer, I'd call Primochill and ask them what happened. Is the tube really flexible or a bit stiff? Also is it crystal clear, or pretty clear


I'd give Th0rn0 a "get out of jail free" card on this one. Mick packed that up, and sent it out to you as a tester on a whim. It's not like Th0rn0 knows the exact specifics of everything the dev team does, especially when it's on a whim.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Does anyone have pics or experiences with the black pastel? Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going acrylic tubing btw.


Is Black pastel back on the market? A while ago Mayhems discontinued it to revise the formula due to it's delicate Ph issues.

Anyways, I've seen it in pics, it's essentially matte black and completely opaque. There was a pic comparison thrown up a while ago comparing the X1 Oil Black, to the Pastel Black. I'll see if I can find it.

Edit: Found it


So as you can see, pastel is jet black and completely opaque, while X1 oil black uses a red/black base.


----------



## Eufawria

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Is Black pastel back on the market? A while ago Mayhems discontinued it to revise the formula due to it's delicate Ph issues.
> 
> Anyways, I've seen it in pics, it's essentially matte black and completely opaque. There was a pic comparison thrown up a while ago comparing the X1 Oil Black, to the Pastel Black. I'll see if I can find it.
> 
> Edit: Found it
> 
> 
> So as you can see, pastel is jet black and completely opaque, while X1 oil black uses a red/black base.


I still think black tubing is the better option than using black coolant.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah but Thorno isn't very active in the thread. I've seen him post in the past week but nothing in response to Stuntfly's claim. If anything, they should just sack the dude and start sending a paycheck to cyphon and ZtheEKS, they handle 90% of the customers problems anyway.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eufawria*
> 
> I still think black tubing is the better option than using black coolant.


Why? Check out gilgamesh's review over at Overclockerstech, Mayhems X1 coolant performed nearly identical to distilled water, and never needs biocides or anything like that. It also it as has a fairly long life, so there's no need to drain your loop every 6 months, like some people do with distilled and coppersulphate. Pastel may test about 2 degrees high LIQUID temp, but it has all the biocides and corrosion inhibitors that make your loop clean, as well as all the surfactants you need to keep your loop looking good. Pastel also has a 2 to 3 year life span... So you don't need to change the coolant.. Like ever. You'd probably redo your loop, and need to drain to re do all the tubing and such before you end up replacing coolant.

Tubing has the drawback of only effecting the tubings color. Your reservoir, water blocks, etc. are all still clear.

If you're going for a "Milk all performance" setup then yeah tubing would be the way to go, but using a coolant vs using pure distilled water very likely won't be the difference between a high overclock and a lower one. The performance drop to make THAT MUCH of a difference just isn't there. It's negligible at best.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah but Thorno isn't very active in the thread. I've seen him post in the past week but nothing in response to Stuntfly's claim. If anything, they should just sack the dude and start sending a paycheck to cyphon and ZtheEKS, they handle 90% of the customers problems anyway.


HA, that would be interesting, but seeing the wicked rigs in this thread is it's own reward, they're bloody brilliant


----------



## pompss

hey guys
i hear the primochill advance lLRT still have plasticizer problem when the temperature goes up to 40c- 50c pretty normal for my system so i was wondering before i change my tubing what kind of tubing i can buy to avoid this problem??
My previous tube which i still using have very bad plasticizer problems so i need to replace it asap.
if not i will consider get hard one to avoid this problem.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> hey guys
> i hear the primochill advance lLRT still have plasticizer problem when the temperature goes up to 40c- 50c pretty normal for my system so i was wondering before i change my tubing what kind of tubing i can buy to avoid this problem??
> My previous tube which i still using have very bad plasticizer problems so i need to replace it asap.
> if not i will consider get hard one to avoid this problem.


Tygon makes plasticizer free tubing, but that stuff is VERY tough. It's not very flexible, due to it's lack of plasticizers. There's always rigid tubing.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> hey guys
> i hear the primochill advance lLRT still have plasticizer problem when the temperature goes up to 40c- 50c pretty normal for my system so i was wondering before i change my tubing what kind of tubing i can buy to avoid this problem??
> My previous tube which i still using have very bad plasticizer problems so i need to replace it asap.
> if not i will consider get hard one to avoid this problem.


I haven't seen anything about plasticizrr in the advanced yet. 40c is pretty warm for collant temps unless you are in an area with really hot ambients so maybe I just haven't come across that. I have seen since people get sent pro instead of advanced by mistake though.

You could always go hard acrylic as well... definitely no plasticizer in that lol


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I haven't seen anything about plasticizrr in the advanced yet. 40c is pretty warm for collant temps unless you are in an area with really hot ambients so maybe I just haven't come across that. I have seen since people get sent pro instead of advanced by mistake though.
> 
> You could always go hard acrylic as well... definitely no plasticizer in that lol


i live in miami so my ambient temperature are 28-30c.
When the pc sn in full load touch's 55 c because i do overclocking to 4.8 ghz
also my amd r9 290x touch 54 on full load.
any way to find durelene tubing i hear is the best.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> i live in miami so my ambient temperature are 28-30c.
> When the pc in in full load touch's 55 c because i do overclocking to 4.8 ghz
> also my amd r9 290x touck 54 on full load.
> any way to find durelene tubing i hear is the best.


Durelene has plasticizers all the same, it just takes a lot longer to start leeching. Durelene makes up for this by being a lot more affordable.

Are those your CPU temps, or coolant temps?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Why? Check out gilgamesh's review over at Overclockerstech, Mayhems X1 coolant performed nearly identical to distilled water, and never needs biocides or anything like that. It also it as has a fairly long life, so there's no need to drain your loop every 6 months, like some people do with distilled and coppersulphate. Pastel may test about 2 degrees high LIQUID temp, but it has all the biocides and corrosion inhibitors that make your loop clean, as well as all the surfactants you need to keep your loop looking good. Pastel also has a 2 to 3 year life span... So you don't need to change the coolant.. Like ever. You'd probably redo your loop, and need to drain to re do all the tubing and such before you end up replacing coolant.
> 
> Tubing has the drawback of only effecting the tubings color. Your reservoir, water blocks, etc. are all still clear.
> 
> If you're going for a "Milk all performance" setup then yeah tubing would be the way to go, but using a coolant vs using pure distilled water very likely won't be the difference between a high overclock and a lower one. The performance drop to make THAT MUCH of a difference just isn't there. It's negligible at best.


Completely agree with ya. I also have always felt the colored tube looks cheesey. If I was going to run a DI water rig, I'd go copper tube either sleeved or chromed and get a photon res To light the water


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Durelene has plasticizers all the same, it just takes a lot longer to start leeching. Durelene makes up for this by being a lot more affordable.
> 
> Are those your CPU temps, or coolant temps?


Sounds like his cpu/gpu temps. But even with 30c ambient and those core temps I wouldn't expect the coolant to be too much over mid-30s.

I'd still recommend the advanced lrt or acrylic personally


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> hey guys
> i hear the primochill advance lLRT still have plasticizer problem when the temperature goes up to 40c- 50c pretty normal for my system so i was wondering before i change my tubing what kind of tubing i can buy to avoid this problem??
> My previous tube which i still using have very bad plasticizer problems so i need to replace it asap.
> if not i will consider get hard one to avoid this problem.


I'm using acrylic tube in my build but since, as an engineer, I always put something in my piping systems at pumps to isolate the vibration from the rest of the system. Since I have a bit of a behemoth of a pump with the 35x2, I have it mounted on the Enthoo's vibration isolation system with a custom fabricated mount. Taking that logic "from the plant" to the loop, seemed like agood idea to isilate the rigid tubing to keep everything from vibrating. So I was gonna use "Tygon 2475 Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer Free Tubing - 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) - Clear (ACG00027)"



Looks pretty flexible, plasticizer free, and chemically resistant

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10691/ex-tub-663/Tygon_2475_Ultra_Chemical_Resistant_Plasticizer_Free_Tubing_-_38_ID_12_OD_-_Clear_ACG00027.html?tl=g30c99s171

I'm not using much

Pump ==> Rad = @ 4.5"
Res ==> Pump = @ 6.0" (not sure about this one as will be partially visible
Drain ==> Bucket = @ 24" .... have quik-disconnect planned for bottom of lower rad .... this will be connected to female QD for draining


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Sounds like his cpu/gpu temps. But even with 30c ambient and those core temps I wouldn't expect the coolant to be too much over mid-30s.
> 
> I'd still recommend the advanced lrt or acrylic personally


That all depends on how much radspace he has XD.

More radspace means lower dTs. Less radspace means higher dTs.

Those are kinda low temps for a 4.8GHz CPU though, so if those are his CPU temps those are impressive.


----------



## Mayhem

Hi cyphon just spotted this gonna have to have a word with some one not keeping on top of things. Send me you full name and address and details via Email [email protected] and ill sort you out some new stuff. Im backwards and forwards between here and ICI at the moment as well as production so a lot of my time is taken up how ever that is no dammed excuse for bad customer service. Send over you details and ill ship some more fluid out asap. BTW the build up if you can send me a sample of the tubing with the stuff on it i can find out what it is.

Mick


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd give Th0rn0 a "get out of jail free" card on this one. Mick packed that up, and sent it out to you as a tester on a whim. It's not like Th0rn0 knows the exact specifics of everything the dev team does, especially when it's on a whim.


Sorry but when someone is put in charge of being a technical representative of a company it is their duty to get to the bottom of a situation like this. Th0rn0 has hardly had any posts in this thread since he was appointed to that position. How hard is it for him to contact mick and say hey this guy is having a serious problem with the sample you sent him. He wants to know if it has all the biocides and additives it was supposed to have. But no he has made no effort to even talk to me after these posts I have made. Shows me he is not doing his job and either needs to start doing it or Mick needs to find someone else that will do their job. This is an unacceptable level of support and as of right now every post I see asking how their products are will get a harsh and honest review of their company. I'm giving mick 2 more days including today and then the campaign to show people how mayhems truly works will begin. I am beyond pissed off at the point and when you have over 1000 in component you will have to clean out because a company can't reply when contacted then maybe you would understand. No free passes or get out of jail free cards for mayhem or th0rn0. It's time people take responsibility when/if they screw up and not just get to go about their daily routine like nothing is wrong.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi cyphon just spotted this gonna have to have a word with some one not keeping on top of things. Send me you full name and address and details via Email [email protected] and ill sort you out some new stuff. Im backwards and forwards between here and ICI at the moment as well as production so a lot of my time is taken up how ever that is no dammed excuse for bad customer service. Send over you details and ill ship some more fluid out asap. BTW the build up if you can send me a sample of the tubing with the stuff on it i can find out what it is.
> 
> Mick


Cyphon is not the person having the issue I am. You alread told me to send you an email after I sent you a PM. I have since sent you 2 emails. One with pictures and one pretty much yelling at you for a response. Which you still haven't replied to. And I know the email went through because I put a delivery and read receipt on it. You just have chosen not to read the email. You can't even reply with if it was sent out with everything it was supposed to have in it. Like antimicrobials or biocides or whatever you put in the coolants.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi cyphon just spotted this gonna have to have a word with some one not keeping on top of things. Send me you full name and address and details via Email [email protected] and ill sort you out some new stuff. Im backwards and forwards between here and ICI at the moment as well as production so a lot of my time is taken up how ever that is no dammed excuse for bad customer service. Send over you details and ill ship some more fluid out asap. BTW the build up if you can send me a sample of the tubing with the stuff on it i can find out what it is.
> 
> Mick


Thanks Mick, it was Stuntfly02 with the build up issue. ZytheEKs and I were trying to help him out







. I'm sure Stuntfly would probably be willing to send you a tube sample if it'd help. He has been waiting for an official response from you guys for a little while now and would probably be cooperative with whatever you have him do.

It looks like it may be an algae which is odd with Pastel, but he got it pre-release I think, so maybe it was a bad batch?


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi cyphon just spotted this gonna have to have a word with some one not keeping on top of things. Send me you full name and address and details via Email [email protected] and ill sort you out some new stuff. Im backwards and forwards between here and ICI at the moment as well as production so a lot of my time is taken up how ever that is no dammed excuse for bad customer service. Send over you details and ill ship some more fluid out asap. BTW the build up if you can send me a sample of the tubing with the stuff on it i can find out what it is.
> 
> Mick


what tubing you guys using for your products??
because i read that primochill stains with mayhems dyes and i really dont know what tubing i have to buy.
Also i hear the primochill get foggy too .
Anyway i can buy durelene tubing??


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> what tubing you guys using for your products??
> because i read that primochill stains with mayhems dyes and i really dont know what tubing i have to buy.
> Also i hear the primochill get foggy too .
> Anyway i can buy durelene tubing??


Again, the new Primochill is fine and is the recommended tube right now. I believe they actually worked with Mayhem and other fluid companies on making it so that there wouldn't be the problem. Durelene will eventually cloud and leak plasticizer, but it does take awhile. Tygon has some decent tube.

What product are you planning on using? Pastel doesn't stain. Aurora doesn't stain. X1 doesn't stain. Some of the dyes will....but, they are dyes and that is what dyes do. UV pink is by far the worst about it though.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Again, the new Primochill is fine and is the recommended tube right now. I believe they actually worked with Mayhem and other fluid companies on making it so that there wouldn't be the problem. Durelene will eventually cloud and leak plasticizer, but it does take awhile. Tygon has some decent tube.
> 
> What product are you planning on using? Pastel doesn't stain. Aurora doesn't stain. X1 doesn't stain. Some of the dyes will....but, they are dyes and that is what dyes do. UV pink is by far the worst about it though.


i will try again aurora and primochill .
hope the primo chill doesnt stain or have pasticizer issue again.
i dont wanna clean up the loop after 1 months again.
i have 1/2 id for the barbs which will be better in your opinion
1/2 id x od 5/8
or
1/2 id x od 3/4

thanks


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> i will try again aurora and primochill .
> hope the primo chill doesnt stain or have pasticizer issue again.
> i dont wanna clean up the loop after 1 months again.


Well, with aurora you have other concerns. What is your loop complexity look like and what kind of flow rates are you getting? You should manage your expectations when using a 'show' fluid like aurora. You should expect to have more maintenance and a life of 6 months or less. You really need to design your loop for Aurora. Until the new version is released at least.....

EDIT: didn't see the barbs question as I responded before your edit....

Honestly, the ID is the same on those tubes, so either one will be about the same...do you want thicker or thinner looking tube? I use 1/2" x 3/4" if it means anything to ya, lol


----------



## Mayhem

Stuntfly02 did the email go directly to me. cannot see it any ware and email are picked up buy remote system and can straight into trash without me even knowing about it some times.

If you got the UV Lime Yellow it has every thing in it. Its like pastel but with a different dye that's all. If your having issues with the tubing ill need a sample of it so we can get it looked at. Tere would be no point re sending it out if you going to use the same tubing again. Hence why we need a sample. We already have certain test samples on record and were building a database of tubing.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Stuntfly02 did the email go directly to me. cannot see it any ware and email are picked up buy remote system and can straight into trash without me even knowing about it some times.
> 
> If you got the UV Lime Yellow it has every thing in it. Its like pastel but with a different dye that's all. If your having issues with the tubing ill need a sample of it so we can get it looked at. Tere would be no point re sending it out if you going to use the same tubing again. Hence why we need a sample. We already have certain test samples on record and were building a database of tubing.


I believe he had the Primochill Advanced LRT.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Well, with aurora you have other concerns. What is your loop complexity look like and what kind of flow rates are you getting? You should manage your expectations when using a 'show' fluid like aurora. You should expect to have more maintenance and a life of 6 months or less. You really need to design your loop for Aurora. Until the new version is released at least.....
> 
> EDIT: didn't see the barbs question as I responded before your edit....
> 
> Honestly, the ID is the same on those tubes, so either one will be about the same...do you want thicker or thinner looking tube? I use 1/2" x 3/4" if it means anything to ya, lol


my green aurora still work in my system but i have pasticizer problems.
I will use this time x1 uv green and see if i get the same problems
any advise how to remove the plasticizer from radiator??


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> my green aurora still work in my system but i have pasticizer problems.
> I will use this time x1 uv green and see if i get the same problems
> any advise how to remove the plasticizer from radiator??


What tubing were you using?

To clean out the rads you could pour about half the bottle (small one) of white vinegar into about half a gallon of distilled water (warmed up in the micro)(not boiling but hot) hose it up and run it for an hour or so. Then drain it and refill with straight warmed up distilled water and run that for an hour or so. Repeat this step a min of 2 more times.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What tubing were you using?
> 
> To clean out the rads you could pour about half the bottle (small one) of white vinegar into about half a gallon of distilled water (warmed up in the micro)(not boiling but hot) hose it up and run it for an hour or so. Then drain it and refill with straight warmed up distilled water and run that for an hour or so. Repeat this step a min of 2 more times.


Right now i using koolance uv tube 1/2id x 5/8 od . i will remove this one and try the primochill advance lrt to see if i have the same problems
I used winn dixie distilled water with aurora last time
i think i have to throw the aurora liquid right??


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> i will try again aurora and primochill .
> hope the primo chill doesnt stain or have pasticizer issue again.
> i dont wanna clean up the loop after 1 months again.
> i have 1/2 id for the barbs which will be better in your opinion
> 1/2 id x od 5/8
> or
> 1/2 id x od 3/4
> 
> thanks


I ran Primoflex Advanced LRT for 9 months with distilled water and no maintenance and it looked as good as the day I put it on by the time I changed it out. If that makes you feel better
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Well, with aurora you have other concerns. What is your loop complexity look like and what kind of flow rates are you getting? You should manage your expectations when using a 'show' fluid like aurora. You should expect to have more maintenance and a life of 6 months or less. You really need to design your loop for Aurora. Until the new version is released at least.....
> 
> EDIT: didn't see the barbs question as I responded before your edit....
> 
> Honestly, the ID is the same on those tubes, so either one will be about the same...do you want thicker or thinner looking tube? I use 1/2" x 3/4" if it means anything to ya, lol


You got a link or some pointers for 'how to plan for/maintain Aurora'? How complex of a loop is to complex?


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkitzoPhr3nia*
> 
> I ran Primoflex Advanced LRT for 9 months with distilled water and no maintenance and it looked as good as the day I put it on by the time I changed it out. If that makes you feel better
> You got a link or some pointers for 'how to plan for/maintain Aurora'? How complex of a loop is to complex?


As i know and for my personal exp for aurora u need to keep the loop simple like rad 360 max- gpu water block - cpu water block -res and pump.(no res- pump combo)
i ran it for 3 months right now and the aurora effect is still there even with pasticizer problem in the tubing.
But i think you should wait for aurora 2 coming out


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Right now i using koolance uv tube 1/2id x 5/8 od . i will remove this one and try the primochill advance lrt to see if i have the same problems
> I used winn dixie distilled water with aurora last time
> i think i have to throw the aurora liquid right??


I'd say the Primochill Advanced will be better than the Koolance UV in terms of plasticizer. Winn Dixie distilled water is fine. You may not need to throw the Aurora out. You could try to filter it through say a coffee filter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkitzoPhr3nia*
> 
> I ran Primoflex Advanced LRT for 9 months with distilled water and no maintenance and it looked as good as the day I put it on by the time I changed it out. If that makes you feel better
> You got a link or some pointers for 'how to plan for/maintain Aurora'? How complex of a loop is to complex?


A good place to start is the *Aurora Wiki*

Basically, you do not want too many components and you want to make sure not to use any 90 degree fittings. You also want to make sure you really have plenty of flow in all components and the res.

Some relevant excerpts from the wiki:

- Aurora is not made for complex systems. It is made for simple loops with 1 or 2 rads and pumps and res.

- It has been noted that people using lots of 90 Degree bends are experiencing problems with this liquid. When we tested the liquid we used normal barbs and never used any 90 degree bends in the loops. It has all so been noted people are adding more than 2 to 3 blocks and getting disappointing results again this is down to the user to test the liquid before adding it to a live system.

- Reservoir's with Inbuilt Pumps do not work well as the pump vents suck in the pearl and do not release it.

- Single DDC / D5 Reservoir has large opening on right hand side were the water is dead and does not move this causes the pearl to drop out of suspension and lay. these are actually badly designed reservoirs.

- D5 Laing Pumps are recommend to be run on Level 4 and 5 and not below this settings.


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> As i know and for my personal exp for aurora u need to keep the loop simple like rad 360 max- gpu water block - cpu water block -res and pump.(no res- pump combo)
> i ran it for 3 months right now and the aurora effect is still there even with pasticizer problem in the tubing.
> But i think you should wait for aurora 2 coming out


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'd say the Primochill Advanced will be better than the Koolance UV in terms of plasticizer. Winn Dixie distilled water is fine. You may not need to throw the Aurora out. You could try to filter it through say a coffee filter.
> A good place to start is the *Aurora Wiki*
> 
> Basically, you do not want too many components and you want to make sure not to use any 90 degree fittings. You also want to make sure you really have plenty of flow in all components and the res.
> 
> Some relevant excerpts from the wiki:
> 
> - Aurora is not made for complex systems. It is made for simple loops with 1 or 2 rads and pumps and res.
> 
> - It has been noted that people using lots of 90 Degree bends are experiencing problems with this liquid. When we tested the liquid we used normal barbs and never used any 90 degree bends in the loops. It has all so been noted people are adding more than 2 to 3 blocks and getting disappointing results again this is down to the user to test the liquid before adding it to a live system.
> 
> - Reservoir's with Inbuilt Pumps do not work well as the pump vents suck in the pearl and do not release it.
> 
> - Single DDC / D5 Reservoir has large opening on right hand side were the water is dead and does not move this causes the pearl to drop out of suspension and lay. these are actually badly designed reservoirs.
> 
> - D5 Laing Pumps are recommend to be run on Level 4 and 5 and not below this settings.


Thank you guys. I had read that it did not play well with pump/res combos but that is not a problem for me. However I do have a complex loop so I will save my aurora dreams for the next build.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkitzoPhr3nia*
> 
> Thank you guys. I had read that it did not play well with pump/res combos but that is not a problem for me. However I do have a complex loop so I will save my aurora dreams for the next build.


they are currently testing the next version of aurora and it is testing much better on complex loops. not sure when it will be out, however.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Stuntfly02 did the email go directly to me. cannot see it any ware and email are picked up buy remote system and can straight into trash without me even knowing about it some times.
> 
> If you got the UV Lime Yellow it has every thing in it. Its like pastel but with a different dye that's all. If your having issues with the tubing ill need a sample of it so we can get it looked at. Tere would be no point re sending it out if you going to use the same tubing again. Hence why we need a sample. We already have certain test samples on record and were building a database of tubing.


I sent the email to [email protected] just like you gave me in your PM reply telling me to email you. On the email I sent you last night I even included a read and delivery receipt. Which I got a confirmation of the delivery to your mail system but nobody ever read the email. It came from [email protected] Had at least 4 pictures in the first one I sent last week. And the one yesterday was just text. I am not going to use this tubing again. I will be getting acrylic tubing from primochill. I am currently using Primochills Primoflex Advanced LRT. Just like I verified before I even ordered the tubing that it was the best tubing to use with your coolants. Unless they are having major issues at the factory and primochill is sending out Pro LRT instead of the Advanced there are at least 2 places that the box states it is ADVANCED LRT.

I can send you emails all day with my address and name and all that but if the ones I already sent are not getting to you then what is the point of sending you more emails? My info is already in your Private messages. Send me a PM with your mailing info unless it is the same as where your packages ship from. If it is the same I will just get the address from the package you send me with new coolant.

Yes I can send you a sample of the peice of tube that has the buildup in it since it is just that one length of tubing. But that will have to wait until I get my acrylic tubing and the new coolant because I do not have enough tubing remaining to replace the run that has the buildup in it. And it is the ONLY peice of tubing that has any buildup. The rest look normal, and the oddest thing is that It is BARELY noticeable under overhead lighting and direct sunlight. But shine the UV lights on it and you can see a blackish buildup on the res(until i cleaned it out yesterday) and that ONE piece of tubing.

And it seem the idiot I live with tossed the sample I had of the buildup. Even after I told him leave that thing there till I get back from work......So I cant tell if it was algae or not at the moment. I'll have to wait and get another sample once its starts appearing on my res again. As of right now there is no new buildup after I totally cleaned the acrylic cylinder part of the res last night.


----------



## Mayhem

Lol "Stunt Fly" send me you full name and address, tel on here ill sort you out some new stuff via this in the morning. Cannot find your email any ware also pm me your email address and ill fire an email to the web space provider see if you court up in junk mail or any thing.. We had this issue a couple of times over the years. You shouldn't be getting an auto respond if no one is actually reading the email .. that a bit f up.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkitzoPhr3nia*
> 
> Thank you guys. I had read that it did not play well with pump/res combos but that is not a problem for me. However I do have a complex loop so I will save my aurora dreams for the next build.


Just before I retired my Prodigy, I ran Mayhems Aurora for almost 2 weeks with little noticeable change in the silver particles dropping out. I had expected to last only a few days. Toward the end, I did start to see some settling of the particles in the dead zones especially in the GPU waterblock but I think it would have lasted another 2 weeks. My Prodigy had 5 90-degree fittings with acrylic tubing and I was using a low speed pump/ res combo (EK-DCP 2.2 @400Lph) which was on 24hrs a day.
The particles do settle very fast and if I had turned off my system for a few hours, there would not have been enough pump pressure/ speed to pick the particles back up.
The pictures & videos don't do justice for the Aurora. You have to see it in person. It is jaw-droppingly gorgeous. I posted a video of the Aurora in my Prodigy a few weeks back. Let me see if I can find it when I get home (cant do squat with my iphone here @work)


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Stuff it send me you full name and address, tel on here ill sort you out some new stuff via this in the morning. Cannot find your email any ware also pm me your email address and ill fire an email to the web space provider see if you court up in junk mail or any thing.. We had this issue a couple of times over the years. You shouldn't be getting an auto respond if no one is actually reading the email .. that a bit f up.


Really professional to tell a potential customer or for other potential customers to see you tell someone to "Stuff it".

I did not get any sort of auto respond from the email. In a program called microsoft outlook you can flag an email so that when the person it was sent to gets it you get a delivery confirmation. You can also add a flag so that when the person opens the email you get a read receipt or read confirmation from the person. They actually have to click something which automatically sends the confirmation back. So the email was delivered to your address, that is the confirmation I got.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Really professional to tell a potential customer or for other potential customers to see you tell someone to "Stuff it".
> 
> I did not get any sort of auto respond from the email. In a program called microsoft outlook you can flag an email so that when the person it was sent to gets it you get a delivery confirmation. You can also add a flag so that when the person opens the email you get a read receipt or read confirmation from the person. They actually have to click something which automatically sends the confirmation back. So the email was delivered to your address, that is the confirmation I got.


Lol, I think he misread your username as "Stuff it" instead of "Stunt Fly"


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Lol, I think he misread your username as "Stuff it" instead of "Stunt Fly"


Lol who knows....


----------



## Mayhem

Corrected .. soz about that i wasn't saying stuff it hahaha. ill be casing this up in the morning ive got your info so i can get it all sorted.

Mick


----------



## MR-e

Hey guys!

Currently have some x1 blue + a few drops of blue dye leak testing. The water in my tube seems a bit lighter than my res, is there a way to balance it so both are equal? Or is it the difference between my res and the tube that's causing the color difference. Also, I'm thinking of switching over the the x1 blood red. I want a dark red, can I add a few drops of my blue dye into the x1 to get a darker red?

Lastly, how would I go about flushing the blue dye out of the system and make sure everything is clean before changing dyes?

Thanks!

*Current build log in progress*


----------



## JAM3S121

anyone got any pics of x1 blue colors they have made? its so hard to find specific colors that aren't pastel on this site these days..


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> anyone got any pics of x1 blue colors they have made? its so hard to find specific colors that aren't pastel on this site these days..


From what I see on the shop on his webpage mayhem only has UV Blue in X1. Anything else would be adding a dye to another color or to the blue to change it..


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Lol, I think he misread your username as "Stuff it" instead of "Stunt Fly"


More likely he was on mobile and it autocorrected lol. That was obviously unintentional lol


----------



## pompss

hey guys
i have a mid-case and i was wondering if someone can give me some advise which Ultraviolet led light i should buy.
i looking for a lot of light in order to glow my coolant inside the tubing.
thanks


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> hey guys
> i have a mid-case and i was wondering if someone can give me some advise which Ultraviolet led light i should buy.
> i looking for a lot of light in order to glow my coolant inside the tubing.
> thanks


If you're seeking UV lights for UV reactive effects you want a cold cathode florescent. Cathode UV lights emit around 70-85% Ultra Violet light. UV LEDs emit around 8% UV light, so you'd need an LED strip to properly get any UV effects, and even then there would be a LOT of purple light... It would be pretty bright. in there if you go that route.

Any UV cathode would be great. Find them here:
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g6/c75/list/p1/Lighting-Cold_Cathode_-_Kits.html

If you do choose to go the LED right, you probably want the most condensed LED strips you can find, so you don't need many of them.
Something like this this


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> hey guys
> i have a mid-case and i was wondering if someone can give me some advise which Ultraviolet led light i should buy.
> i looking for a lot of light in order to glow my coolant inside the tubing.
> thanks


I have seen cold cathodes in 4, 8 and 15 inches. They generally give the best lighting effect without tinting everything in the case purple. LEDs will give the most amount of light with the fewer number of actual lights needed in the case. But like I said LEDs tend to wash everything in the light they put out. Cold cathodes tend to illuminate without having all that extra light bleeding onto everything else. I have also had a hard time finding UV cold cathodes in anything but the standard tube with the square blocks on either end.

And here you can see the differences between cold cathodes and a UV strip. You will need more cold cathodes to light everything up. Now that that LED strip has lost a LOT of its lumination I have 6 4" cold cathodes in various places around my case to get to the areas the LEDs don't get anymore. I very much prefer the cold cathodes.

The light shows up blue under almost any white setting on any camera. So in person this would have an overly flooded purple effect. So much so that it lit up the floor when I had the case under my desk.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Here is an almost current pic of what it is like now with a mix of LED and cold cathode.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> I have seen cold cathodes in 4, 8 and 15 inches. They generally give the best lighting effect without tinting everything in the case purple. LEDs will give the most amount of light with the fewer number of actual lights needed in the case. But like I said LEDs tend to wash everything in the light they put out. Cold cathodes tend to illuminate without having all that extra light bleeding onto everything else. I have also had a hard time finding UV cold cathodes in anything but the standard tube with the square blocks on either end.
> 
> And here you can see the differences between cold cathodes and a UV strip. You will need more cold cathodes to light everything up. Now that that LED strip has lost a LOT of its lumination I have 6 4" cold cathodes in various places around my case to get to the areas the LEDs don't get anymore. I very much prefer the cold cathodes.
> 
> The light shows up blue under almost any white setting on any camera. So in person this would have an overly flooded purple effect. So much so that it lit up the floor when I had the case under my desk.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If you're seeking UV lights for UV reactive effects you want a cold cathode florescent. Cathode UV lights emit around 70-85% Ultra Violet light. UV LEDs emit around 8% UV light, so you'd need an LED strip to properly get any UV effects, and even then there would be a LOT of purple light... It would be pretty bright. in there if you go that route.
> 
> Any UV cathode would be great. Find them here:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g6/c75/list/p1/Lighting-Cold_Cathode_-_Kits.html
> 
> If you do choose to go the LED right, you probably want the most condensed LED strips you can find, so you don't need many of them.
> Something like this this


thnaks guys
So as i understand to get the best glow effect i need to add the cold cathode instead the led strip.
I have already green led strip so i would go with the cathode.
i have a middle case. do you guyz think two 12'' cathode us black light will be enough??


----------



## Th0rn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Here is an almost current pic of what it is like now with a mix of LED and cold cathode.


Looking good, I do have a soft spot for green and purple


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> thnaks guys
> So as i understand to get the best glow effect i need to add the cold cathode instead the led strip.
> I have already green led strip so i would go with the cathode.
> i have a middle case. do you guyz think two 12'' cathode us black light will be enough??


Cold Cathodes are great for sticking in a corner that has little illumination from the rest of your lighting. But they also do work for doing the job of lighting everything.

It is hard to tell the difference. But here is a shot with the LED strip and the cold cathodes on. Then a pic with Just the cold cathodes. Then a third pick with the same zoom and all the lights turned on. I will post again when its dark. It is hard to get a good shot of the UV effect when the sun in shinning in this room.





Most likely you are going to have to play around and see what illuminates everything the best.


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> Currently have some x1 blue + a few drops of blue dye leak testing. The water in my tube seems a bit lighter than my res, is there a way to balance it so both are equal? Or is it the difference between my res and the tube that's causing the color difference. Also, I'm thinking of switching over the the x1 blood red. I want a dark red, can I add a few drops of my blue dye into the x1 to get a darker red?
> 
> Lastly, how would I go about flushing the blue dye out of the system and make sure everything is clean before changing dyes?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> *Current build log in progress*


I have experience with the blue dye, just in XT-1 but its the same idea just a diff base for the coolant. The blue dye is lighter in the tubes because there's just less volume of liquid in the tubes vs the res for the diameter/size of each. You're never going to balance the color out. The res will pretty much always be darker. It'll be closer if u use a tiny res, I have a bay res so mines REALLY dark in the res vs the tubes. I can also post a pic of how deep I made my blue when I get home. I recently flushed out my loop as it started to turn after about 4 months, which for all I know could have been contamination due to too much of a diluted mix or contamination from crud left in from my failed 1st attempt as using.Primochill ICE. Started forming a green waterline in my res, disassembly revealed green liquid in my GPU blocks and dark crud stuck in the fins on the sinks. No film on my tubes or res so I don't think it was plasticizer. My tubes are tinted a bit but that's probably from the amount of dye I used to make a pretty deep blue. Ok im rambling.

ANYWAYS, when u flush the biggest pain will be the res depending on how long u've used the dyed liquid. After about 5 flushes water was still tinted blue rinsing my res. Its copper inside and seems to have held onto the dye a bit. No biggie for me because I went with blue again but if ur going witha new color be prepared to flush the hell out of it. Probabaly more vigrously than when u first prepped ur loop.

Edit: Also, not sure what tube ur using but if u want to change the color decide soon. The longer that dye sits the more changes of tinting the tubing. All resist it better than others but from what I've heard its just a risk of using dyes. Once it tints its pretty much permanent and u'll need new tube.

Edit2: pics of my coloring


----------



## Stuntfly02

Here you go with a darker room. You can see with my mix of lights everything just glows. With just the cold cathodes it is not as effective.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Here you go with a darker room. You can see with my mix of lights everything just glows. With just the cold cathodes it is not as effective.


thanks stuntfly really appreciate your help
Il try with cathodes i just bought two 12 inch and if is not enough i will buy the led strips uv


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> thanks stuntfly really appreciate your help
> Il try with cathodes i just bought two 12 inch and if is not enough i will buy the led strips uv


Two 12" cathodes should be plenty for a mid tower. If your side panel has a window, you could fasten them above/below the window so it will illuminate everything infront of the window, while being out of sight themselves.


----------



## Adrian-E

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm using acrylic tube in my build but since, as an engineer, I always put something in my piping systems at pumps to isolate the vibration from the rest of the system. Since I have a bit of a behemoth of a pump with the 35x2, I have it mounted on the Enthoo's vibration isolation system with a custom fabricated mount. Taking that logic "from the plant" to the loop, seemed like agood idea to isilate the rigid tubing to keep everything from vibrating. So I was gonna use "Tygon 2475 Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer Free Tubing - 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) - Clear (ACG00027)"
> 
> 
> 
> Looks pretty flexible, plasticizer free, and chemically resistant
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10691/ex-tub-663/Tygon_2475_Ultra_Chemical_Resistant_Plasticizer_Free_Tubing_-_38_ID_12_OD_-_Clear_ACG00027.html?tl=g30c99s171
> 
> I'm not using much
> 
> Pump ==> Rad = @ 4.5"
> Res ==> Pump = @ 6.0" (not sure about this one as will be partially visible
> Drain ==> Bucket = @ 24" .... have quik-disconnect planned for bottom of lower rad .... this will be connected to female QD for draining


Hi JackNaylorPE,

I bought Tygon 2475 Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer Free Tubing - 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) - Clear (ACG00027) form FrozenCPU and I'm having problem whit it.
I'm not shore if its plasticizer but there's a white dust like substance that is setting on the bottom of my transparent reservoir and inside the tubing. Once I start the computer and the coolant starts moving the white stuff starts clearing up and again settles on the bottom once the computer is shutdown.

I use pastel red for coolant.


----------



## Mas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> So my mayhems blood red is more of a mayhems doodoo brown for some reason. Can I add some red to try to fix it, or should I just drain it andmake my own blood red? Ill post pics of the situation after work.


Just had this problem as well, dunno how it happened though, because it occurred before even entering my loop!

I bought a 2L bottle of demineralised water and just added the concentrate directly to it.

Is it possible that the dye was too old or something? I wasn't able to find a use by or batch date on the bottle and am wondering if it had sat on a shelf for several years before I bought it.

Will the biological and corrosion inhibitors work still? Or does the brown indicate failure in this regard?


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> Just had this problem as well, dunno how it happened though, because it occurred before even entering my loop!
> 
> I bought a 2L bottle of demineralised water and just added the concentrate directly to it.
> 
> Is it possible that the dye was too old or something? I wasn't able to find a use by or batch date on the bottle and am wondering if it had sat on a shelf for several years before I bought it.
> 
> Will the biological and corrosion inhibitors work still? Or does the brown indicate failure in this regard?


Concentrate of what? If it was Pastel you over diluted the coolant. 1.5L of water and 500ml of pastel concentrate. If you used just poured one bottle of pastel concentrate into 2L water then you are WAY over diluted and it is possible other things are out of balance in your loop.

Also Demineralized water is something I have never heard of. There is distilled and de-ionized water.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just to keep you all informed.
> 
> We no longer sponsoring our old ranges, these include Pastel and Aurora.


What exactly does this mean? Production has halted?


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> What exactly does this mean? Production has halted?


When did he post this?


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> When did he post this?


Post 3837. I think it was almost two weeks ago, but I haven't kept up with this thread in a while.


----------



## Mas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Concentrate of what? If it was Pastel you over diluted the coolant. 1.5L of water and 500ml of pastel concentrate. If you used just poured one bottle of pastel concentrate into 2L water then you are WAY over diluted and it is possible other things are out of balance in your loop.
> 
> Also Demineralized water is something I have never heard of. There is distilled and de-ionized water.


Here you go



It was Blood Red X1 (I believe the X1 is the only Blood Red Mayhems sells?)

It's 250ml of blood red x1 concentrate. You add 125ml to 1L of water, 250ml to 2L.

Also, it doesn't have anything to do with things being out of balance in my loop... I had said that it was this colour *before* being added to my loop.


----------



## Mayhem

It just means that Pastel, Aurora and X1 will not be sent out for sponsorship any more. Since were working on Aurora 2 there is not point, were also improving X1 and Pastel and they will be sent out to testers soon. The improvements range from better thermal proprieties, Better over all product, more stable, longer lasting ect ect.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It just means that Pastel, Aurora and X1 will not be sent out for sponsorship any more. Since were working on Aurora 2 there is not point, were also improving X1 and Pastel and they will be sent out to testers soon. The improvements range from better thermal proprieties, Better over all product, more stable, longer lasting ect ect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Post 3837. I think it was almost two weeks ago, but I haven't kept up with this thread in a while.


Found the post and ya he says sponsoring. Which means free stuff for people







Sort of like how I got my Pastel UV Lime Yellow. But I would see that as more of a tester/sponsorship since I think it was pre release that I got mine.


----------



## Mas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It just means that Pastel, Aurora and X1 will not be sent out for sponsorship any more. Since were working on Aurora 2 there is not point, were also improving X1 and Pastel and they will be sent out to testers soon. The improvements range from better thermal proprieties, Better over all product, more stable, longer lasting ect ect.


Hi,

Are you able to tell me if my brown coloured Blood Red X1 still retains its antimicrobial and anti-corrosive properties?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> Just had this problem as well, dunno how it happened though, because it occurred before even entering my loop!
> 
> I bought a 2L bottle of demineralised water and just added the concentrate directly to it.
> 
> Is it possible that the dye was too old or something? I wasn't able to find a use by or batch date on the bottle and am wondering if it had sat on a shelf for several years before I bought it.
> 
> Will the biological and corrosion inhibitors work still? Or does the brown indicate failure in this regard?


This usually will happen if you didn't clean the rads out appropriately before filling your loop. There can be a pH imbalance and when this happens you get copper oxide forming in most commonly the rads. When this happens, it mixes in with the fluid color and you get something weird.

Mayhem had a post recently about this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/3720#post_20990037

Since you didn't get in your loop though, only thing I can think of is the water not being very pure????????


----------



## Mas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> This usually will happen if you didn't clean the rads out appropriately before filling your loop. There can be a pH imbalance and when this happens you get copper oxide forming in most commonly the rads. When this happens, it mixes in with the fluid color and you get something weird.
> 
> Mayhem had a post recently about this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/3720#post_20990037
> 
> Since you didn't get in your loop though, only thing I can think of is the water not being very pure????????


Hmm. I haven't actually tested the water, just bought it and put the dye straight in it. I've been using this brand for years, though I haven't used it with dyes. I actually did one test where I built a loop in my media PC in the bedroom using this stuff and a huge chunk of pure silver wire that I bought from a jewellery supplies store where I ran it for a full 2.5 years. Temps never went up, and when I opened it up there was a little bit of corrosion but for the most part the loop looked good. I suppose I could go to a pet shop and pick up some testing strips to see what the PH of the water is.


----------



## djriful

Mayhem Dye Blood Red - https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/15ml_mayhems_dye_red_deep/

+

Distilled Water

+

Kill Coils

Safe to use with Nickel Plated blocks and Full copper rads?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Mayhem Dye Blood Red - https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/15ml_mayhems_dye_red_deep/
> +
> Distilled Water
> +
> Kill Coils
> 
> Safe to use with Nickel Plated blocks and Full copper rads?


Should be good to go


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Mayhem Dye Blood Red - https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/15ml_mayhems_dye_red_deep/
> +
> Distilled Water
> +
> Kill Coils
> 
> *Safe to use with Nickel Plated blocks and Full copper rads?*


It'll work, but the deep red dye doesn't offer any corrosion protection if that's what you're asking in that last part.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Mayhem Dye Blood Red - https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/15ml_mayhems_dye_red_deep/
> +
> Distilled Water
> +
> Kill Coils
> 
> *Safe to use with Nickel Plated blocks and Full copper rads?*
> 
> 
> 
> It'll work, but the deep red dye doesn't offer any corrosion protection if that's what you're asking in that last part.
Click to expand...

Well but it takes age for anything to corrode right?


----------



## Mas

I've seen some pretty massive corrosion where posters claimed was after 2 days, block was almost completely filled with it. I was a bit skeptical but everyone else seemed to believe it.


----------



## djriful

Only when you have aluminum in your loop I heard.


----------



## whitie63

Hello I have been reading this thread for some time now with the Good the Bad and the Drama and I finally decided to use Mayhems And I'm very happy with it so far it really looks great and so do my fingers LOL I wounder how long it takes for this stuff to wear off LOL any here are some pic's let me know what you think...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It'll work, but the deep red dye doesn't offer any corrosion protection if that's what you're asking in that last part.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Well but it takes age for anything to corrode right?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> I've seen some pretty massive corrosion where posters claimed was after 2 days, block was almost completely filled with it. I was a bit skeptical but everyone else seemed to believe it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Only when you have aluminum in your loop I heard.


I've seen some people have trouble with the nickel and silver...slipped my mind earlier. Aluminum is the biggest problem one. I'd research it a bit more before you put silver in with the nickel. From a mayhems dye compatibility side though, there are no issues there.

And yes, corrosion can take days or months or a year....too many variables to say for sure, lol

I honestly use premixes with anti-corrosives so I never worry about it (x1 or pastel). The 1 degree or less performance I lose is worth not having to worry about algae, corrosion, or having to really do any fluid maintenance for what ends up being the life of a build or until an upgrade.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Well but it takes age for anything to corrode right?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Only when you have aluminum in your loop I heard.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I've seen some people have trouble with the nickel and silver...slipped my mind earlier. Aluminum is the biggest problem one. I'd research it a bit more before you put silver in with the nickel. From a mayhems dye compatibility side though, there are no issues there.
> 
> And yes, corrosion can take days or months or a year....too many variables to say for sure, lol
> 
> I honestly use premixes with anti-corrosives so I never worry about it (x1 or pastel). The 1 degree or less performance I lose is worth not having to worry about algae, corrosion, or having to really do any fluid maintenance for what ends up being the life of a build or until an upgrade.


It is an extremely large issue with aluminum. Nickle and silver usually don't mix very well, some have major issues with it while some will say those people are delusional. There have been MANY issues reported with nickle and silver, but there has never been any finite evidence that is is directly linked to nickle and silver.

If you want my recommendation use a premix with red coloring, or a clear premix and dye it yourself. Something like X-1, XT-1, or Pastel. The performance drop is anywhere from 0.2celcius to 2 Celsius higher coolant temps depending on the coolant (x1 is the best performing of the three). Mind you that is coolant temps, not cpu temps, the actual effects on the temp of the device will be negligible.


----------



## djriful

Problem is in Canada, Mayhems X1 is hard to find + I have a Mayhems Blood Red dye here already. I've been wondering what are my choices.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Problem is in Canada, Mayhems X1 is hard to find + I have a Mayhems Blood Red dye here already. I've been wondering what are my choices.


Well I know FrozenCPU delivers internationally, I'm pretty sure sidewinder computers and dazmode also both deliver to Canada.

If you go with the blood red and distilled it should work fine. I personally wouldn't trust it in my loop, but there are certainly not redcards that could be pulled on it.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> Hello I have been reading this thread for some time now with the Good the Bad and the Drama and I finally decided to use Mayhems And I'm very happy with it so far it really looks great and so do my fingers LOL I wounder how long it takes for this stuff to wear off LOL any here are some pic's let me know what you think...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well I know FrozenCPU delivers internationally, I'm pretty sure sidewinder computers and dazmode also both deliver to Canada.
> 
> If you go with the blood red and distilled it should work fine. I personally wouldn't trust it in my loop, but there are certainly not redcards that could be pulled on it.


Isn't dazmode based in Canada????

Also xt-1 is an option. I think i have read the Ethylene Glycol helps the prevent the silver and nickel issues


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Isn't dazmode based in Canada????
> 
> Also xt-1 is an option. I think i have read the Ethylene Glycol helps the prevent the silver and nickel issues


I thought dazmode is, I couldn't find anything on their website about it but I only looked briefly

Ethylene glycol is a corrosion inhibitor, but X1 has better thermals and also has corrosion inhibitors in it.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I thought dazmode is, I couldn't find anything on their website about it but I only looked briefly
> 
> Ethylene glycol is a corrosion inhibitor, but X1 has better thermals and also has corrosion inhibitors in it.


ZytheEKS I cant help but laugh when I look at your avatar.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> ZytheEKS I cant help but laugh when I look at your avatar.


That's what it's there for.


----------



## Kokin

Hey guys, I was testing out a few drops of Mayhems Blue Dye on my current loop and despite the plasticizer on my tubing (cheap tubing from local hardware store), it actually looks pretty nice. This is only 6 drops of Mayhems Blue dye on a 1.2L loop, but I will probably go a lot darker once I redo my loop with the Primochil Advanced LRT tubing I bought.




Here's a small teaser of what is to come:


----------



## cyphon

Not bad. Can't wait for the pics with the new tubing


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Hey guys, I was testing out a few drops of Mayhems Blue Dye on my current loop and despite the plasticizer on my tubing (cheap tubing from local hardware store), it actually looks pretty nice. This is only 6 drops of Mayhems Blue dye on a 1.2L loop, but I will probably go a lot darker once I redo my loop with the Primochil Advanced LRT tubing I bought.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a small teaser of what is to come:


Oh my, the coolant looks very elegant, like an aquamarine gem. Fancy!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> That's what it's there for.


When child protective services calls ...... just say "oh that wasn't me, I took that film in a park.... have no idea who that guys was."


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> When child protective services calls ...... just say "oh that wasn't me, I took that film in a park.... have no idea who that guys was."


I would first wonder why someone called child protective services on me when I don't have kids. XD


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I would first wonder why someone called child protective services on me when I don't have kids. XD


So ya thinking they won't bother ya if one of their employees is cruising OCN and sees ya drop 50 pound snowballs on on other people's kids heads :0 .... not saying doing it is a bad thing .... leaving evidence of doing it is what I'd question ....

Evil things I have done to my sons ....

- At Boy Scouts Family Camping week .... painted their toenails pink while they were sleeping night before swim test
- Made Canoli's outta them .... rolled them up in their "blankie" which they used to enjoy the game of wiggling their way out of .... till one night I grabbed a bungie cord and ....


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I would first wonder why someone called child protective services on me when I don't have kids. XD


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> So ya thinking they won't bother ya if one of their employees is cruising OCN and sees ya drop 50 pound snowballs on on other people's kids heads :0 .... not saying doing it is a bad thing .... leaving evidence of doing it is what I'd question ....
> 
> Evil things I have done to my sons ....
> 
> - At Boy Scouts Family Camping week .... painted their toenails pink while they were sleeping night before swim test
> - Made Canoli's outta them .... rolled them up in their "blankie" which they used to enjoy the game of wiggling their way out of .... till one night I grabbed a bungie cord and ....










...getting a lil derailed here guys


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> So ya thinking they won't bother ya if one of their employees is cruising OCN and sees ya drop 50 pound snowballs on on other people's kids heads :0 .... not saying doing it is a bad thing .... leaving evidence of doing it is what I'd question ....
> 
> Evil things I have done to my sons ....
> 
> - At Boy Scouts Family Camping week .... painted their toenails pink while they were sleeping night before swim test
> - Made Canoli's outta them .... rolled them up in their "blankie" which they used to enjoy the game of wiggling their way out of .... till one night I grabbed a bungie cord and ....


You, good sir, are brilliantly evil!

Seriously though, I live in a California. Snow doesn't happen here. XD Not me, something I found while surfing the inter-webs.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Well it was fun and those kinda events usually come up again and again over the years, often as we're sitting doing a new build .... a little laughter breaks up the monotony of things like sleeving, measuring yup kinda trial and error, waiting for ya air to finish bubbling out so ya can finally close then dang panels and is never off topic.

One of the ones involved in those shennanigans is coming home next weekend to help me to the final build out. Wants to "be there" when I load the coolant. He'll be back at thanksgiving and then home for a month for winter break. He's planning his own build come May when he graduates college and the timing is such that he'll likely be able to try out the new lines of Mahems.....he's thinking black and white theme but I'm kinda waiting to see what shows up. I'm sure the new line will hit the shelves a week after I fill the loop.


----------



## pompss

hi guys
Some updates
I just flush and rinse the loop 6 time and now i runnig it with white vinegar and DI water for one hours to see if i can clean up completely my rad.
I still can see the silver parts of aurora flooding around the loop.
Was running with aurora green and here u can see the new tubing and the old one ( 3 month old tube)



i can see the silver parts of aurora sticking inside.
Still doesn't know what issue it is . Bad fluid or plasticizer.


----------



## Oliver1234

Running Mayhems pastel white, looks great and runs fantastic so far! :


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> hi guys
> Some updates
> I just flush and rinse the loop 6 time and now i runnig it with white vinegar and DI water for one hours to see if i can clean up completely my rad.
> I still can see the silver parts of aurora flooding around the loop.
> Was running with aurora green and here u can see the new tubing and the old one ( 3 month old tube)
> 
> 
> 
> i can see the silver parts of aurora sticking inside.
> Still doesn't know what issue it is . Bad fluid or plasticizer.


That looks to be plasticizer


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That looks to be plasticizer


If you say so








Anyway i clean up all my water block by opening all the blocks, flushing 10 times the rad and change all the tubing.At all it takes me over 6 hours to clean , flush, unmount and mount.
I hope this new tubing doesnt get like the older .
I suppose to receive the uv x1 green today.
After the issues with the aurora and the tubing i just throw it at the end. Would not risk to put it the loop again
waiting for the aurora 2


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> If you say so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway i clean up all my water block by opening all the block, flushing 10 times the rad and change all the tubing.At all it takes me over 6 hours to clean , flush, unmount and mount.
> I hope this new tubing doesnt get like the older .
> I suppose to receive the uv x1 green today.
> After the issues with the aurora and the tubing just throw it at the end.
> waiting for the aurora 2


Definitely looks like plasticizer lol. I am pretty sure the aurora particles will stick to the plasticizer as well.

We're all waiting for aurora 2


----------



## pompss

i hope with this tube i dont have the same issues.
Let see


----------



## Redefined

About to start my first water cooling loop.

Question: Was thinking of going with Mayhem Pastel Red. Haven't seen any inside the system, and was curious if anyone had a picture?

Secondly, is this particular product going to stain/gunk my blocks/tubes/rads? I've heard many mixed stories. Looking for a few more, lol.

Thanks, and I'm sorry if this Q has been asked too many times.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Definitely looks like plasticizer lol. I am pretty sure the aurora particles will stick to the plasticizer as well.
> 
> We're all waiting for aurora 2


one question for u
can i mix mayhems 1 ltr pure h20 with winn dixie Di Water??


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> About to start my first water cooling loop.
> 
> Question: Was thinking of going with Mayhem Pastel Red. Haven't seen any inside the system, and was curious if anyone had a picture?
> 
> Secondly, is this particular product going to stain/gunk my blocks/tubes/rads? I've heard many mixed stories. Looking for a few more, lol.
> 
> Thanks, and I'm sorry if this Q has been asked too many times.


Click on pic in my sig for ya 1st question.

also here .... this build was shown at Comdex ....scroll down .... a lot









http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33364-Maximus-VI-Formula-Show-Casemod-MbK


----------



## Redefined

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Click on pic in my sig for ya 1st question.
> 
> also here .... this build was shown at Comdex ....scroll down .... a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33364-Maximus-VI-Formula-Show-Casemod-MbK


Oh wow, it looks great! Really lovin' it. Nice job.

What about the second part of my Q about staining/gunking? Thanks.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> one question for u
> can i mix mayhems 1 ltr pure h20 with winn dixie Di Water??


Why would you? If you are going to use ultrapure or something it is more pure than the winndixie. I'd just buy the winn dixie brand tho cause it's cheaper and works fine


----------



## djriful

Mayhems Pastel White Concentrated 250ml to be mix with 750ml of distilled water for 1L coolant. What if I can't use all 1L of coolant? Can I store it cool and dry place for years?

Also how often I need to flush my system if I use Pastel which I heard they last long time.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> Oh wow, it looks great! Really lovin' it. Nice job.
> 
> What about the second part of my Q about staining/gunking? Thanks.


I have seen **reports** of staining and gunking. I'm currently convinced there is no issue with gunking. As for staining, there are too many variable for me to conclude one way or another. And define "stain":

1. Stain = after i drain my loop I see color on my blocks and inside my tubing. (I would not call this a stain but a "deposit")

or

2. Stain = after i drain my loop I see color on my blocks and inside my tubing and no amount of cleaning / flushing will remove it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Why would you? If you are going to use ultrapure or something it is more pure than the winndixie. I'd just buy the winn dixie brand tho cause it's cheaper and works fine


had wifie pick up some DI for me last night .... damn purchase put me over my build limit ..... 88 cents for a gallon @ Walmart.!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I have seen **reports** of staining and gunking. I'm currently convinced there is no issue with gunking. As for staining, there are too many variable for me to conclude one way or another. And define "stain":
> 
> 1. Stain = after i drain my loop I see color on my blocks and inside my tubing. (I would not call this a stain but a "deposit")
> 
> or
> 
> 2. Stain = after i drain my loop I see color on my blocks and inside my tubing and no amount of cleaning / flushing will remove it.
> had wifie pick up some DI for me last night .... damn purchase put me over my build limit ..... 88 cents for a gallon @ Walmart.!


Lol yeah that 88 cents is a killer

Regarding the staining...the dyes are really the only mayhem products that will cause any type of staining. But they are dyes so this is to be expected. It is only doing its job. The UV pink dye is the worst about it.

The gunking the other guy mentioned is most often plasticizer from the tube. Tube with plasticizer in it will eventually leak it into the loop no matter what fluid you use. The fluid moving across the tube with the heat will start to break down and the tube and the plasticizer leaks


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Yeah , that was my conclusion..... I'm satisfied that coolant is not the issue, plasticizer the most common culprit .... inadequate flushing, other additives, microbial buggers, etc being others.


----------



## ozzy1925

first time builder here:I am thinking of getting Mayhems Pastel Ice White Concentrate for my build, which will be ek nickel plated blocks , alphacool ut 60 radiators and primoflex tubing.I read somewhere here alphacool radiators are having some problems with the mayhem products.I want to know is it safe to use the concentrate coolant with alphacool ?


----------



## Redefined

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I have seen **reports** of staining and gunking. I'm currently convinced there is no issue with gunking. As for staining, there are too many variable for me to conclude one way or another. And define "stain":
> 
> 1. Stain = after i drain my loop I see color on my blocks and inside my tubing. (I would not call this a stain but a "deposit")
> 
> or
> 
> 2. Stain = after i drain my loop I see color on my blocks and inside my tubing and no amount of cleaning / flushing will remove it.
> had wifie pick up some DI for me last night .... damn purchase put me over my build limit ..... 88 cents for a gallon @ Walmart.!


I'm mainly referring to permanent staining. I can live with cleaning out my blocks/tubing every 8 months or whatever. I just don't want it to "ruin" tubing or blocks completely.


----------



## pompss

here some pics of my renewed loop.
I already have the led i just change the color and with blue led actually my tubing and coolant are really glow more then the two cathode uv











The x1 is glowing really bright 100% happy.
Hope i dont have plasticizer problems again


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> I'm mainly referring to permanent staining. I can live with cleaning out my blocks/tubing every 8 months or whatever. I just don't want it to "ruin" tubing or blocks completely.


Yes.... I know what ya meant .... but that's what I mean by variables ...... if ya have porous tubing, ya not gonna get it out of the pores.


----------



## Redefined

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yes.... I know what ya meant .... but that's what I mean by variables ...... if ya have porous tubing, ya not gonna get it out of the pores.


PrimoChill Advanced LRT Clear 1/2". I'll clean it out nicely before installing. Should be okay?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> first time builder here:I am thinking of getting Mayhems Pastel Ice White Concentrate for my build, which will be ek nickel plated blocks , alphacool ut 60 radiators and primoflex tubing.I read somewhere here alphacool radiators are having some problems with the mayhem products.I want to know is it safe to use the concentrate coolant with alphacool ?


The problem I think is if you do not clean out the rad well enough before using. If you flush them out well before filling the loop you should be good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> PrimoChill Advanced LRT Clear 1/2". I'll clean it out nicely before installing. Should be okay?


You're good


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> PrimoChill Advanced LRT Clear 1/2". I'll clean it out nicely before installing. Should be okay?


haven't heard anyone complain about the current stuff..... I'm using clear acrylic but have Tygon of my drain line which sits in the draw most of the time. Also have two short pieces of flex for vibration isolation at pump. I been using Tygon in the lab for 30 years with no issues so sticking with it

Tygon 2475 Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer Free Tubing - 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) - Clear (ACG00027)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> About to start my first water cooling loop.
> 
> Question: Was thinking of going with Mayhem Pastel Red. Haven't seen any inside the system, and was curious if anyone had a picture?
> 
> *Secondly, is this particular product going to stain/gunk my blocks/tubes/rads? I've heard many mixed stories. Looking for a few more, lol.*
> 
> Thanks, and I'm sorry if this Q has been asked too many times.


Gunking happens when you mix a glycol based coolant with a copper sulphate biocide. Many ultrapures have a very small concentration of propylene glycol, which is why gunking is an issue.

Pastel contains no glycol nor copper sulphate. Gunking shouldn't occur unless you add those two things yourself, which I don't know why you WOULD put copper sulphate in there since Pastel already contains biocides.


----------



## Mas

Any news on the new Aurora v2? I'm really itching to get my hands on some of this stuff. Think I might hold off on my 2nd GPU until it comes out so I can just do one drain/clean for new parts + new coolant.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> Any news on the new Aurora v2? I'm really itching to get my hands on some of this stuff. Think I might hold off on my 2nd GPU until it comes out so I can just do one drain/clean for new parts + new coolant.


It is currently being tested. I suppose a release date would depend on the test results and if there were any set backs or not. I do not work at mayhems and am not privy to anymore information than what is on these threads, but Personally I am not expecting to see anything for several months. It could even be another year.

If you are looking to upgrade your rig sooner, I'd just go with pastel or x1. If you can wait, then wait and see what more information comes out in the next couple months.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> Any news on the new Aurora v2? I'm really itching to get my hands on some of this stuff. Think I might hold off on my 2nd GPU until it comes out so I can just do one drain/clean for new parts + new coolant.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It is currently being tested. I suppose a release date would depend on the test results and if there were any set backs or not. I do not work at mayhems and am not privy to anymore information than what is on these threads, but Personally I am not expecting to see anything for several months. It could even be another year.
> 
> If you are looking to upgrade your rig sooner, I'd just go with pastel or x1. If you can wait, then wait and see what more information comes out in the next couple months.


I second cyphon's suggestion, pop in some X1 or Pastel rather than wait. They've been discussing Aurora+, or Aurora 2, or whatever they decide to call it for a LONG time. It has, as far as any non-mayhems employee knows, only been heavily worked on as of recent, presumably due to all the new equipment they got. Mayhems seems to take their sweet time on development, but that's a good thing as we don't see any of the nasty issues that they might patch up after they do all their testing and what not.

I wouldn't expect Aurora+ for at least another year or so. Yes they have put it into testing, but after that it'll probably have to be refined, then it's distribution method/packaging discussed and decided upon, then it needs to be put into mass production, then pricing/distribution costs need to be figured out, then it needs to be shipped out to all the redistributes, and only then would it be available for mainstream markets.

That all doesn't happen quickly, so I wouldn't hold your breath on upgrading for it.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

All the new stuff will be available the day after I fill my loop..... So figure weekend after next


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> All the new stuff will be available the day after I fill my loop..... So figure weekend after next


HA! I hate that feeling when new stuff comes out right when you finish. XD That's the issue with this hobby, technology advances so dang quickly.


----------



## Th0rn0

No release date on Aurora 2, still in testing.

Just get some X1 or something to tide you over


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I was waiting for the new pastel red color I read about .... or at least think i did







.... about 20 pages back.


----------



## Simpleboo

I know this was posted before in the thread, but I have to ask since what I saw seemed to be inconclusive at the time of posting.
Does primochill LRT Advanced still have the same problems with mayhems? And if so, what is the recommended tubing for use it now?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simpleboo*
> 
> I know this was posted before in the thread, but I have to ask since what I saw seemed to be inconclusive at the time of posting.
> Does primochill LRT Advanced still have the same problems with mayhems? And if so, what is the recommended tubing for use it now?


Advanced LRT has never had problems with mayhems, or at least not that have been officially reported. Mayhems tends to be good at reporting products it's coolants have issues with. Primochill's Primoflex Pro LRT has plasticizers issues with most coolants, they have since revised the tubing, renamed it, and it is currently the recommended tubing. There has been past issues with packaging accidentally sending out Pro LRT instead of Advanced LRT, but presently such mistakes are few and far from.


----------



## Simpleboo

Oh ok, thanks for that. I actually have some old LRT tubing lying around but ordered the LRT Advanced when it came out to swap the tubing in my system with. Glad to hear there are no issues with mayhems.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh weve had no resports yet and under our own testing there has been no issues with the primochill advance LRT. We have also had no issues as of yet with Hard line tubing.

Aurora 2 is being tested that's all i can say sorry guys.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oliver1234*
> 
> Running Mayhems pastel white, looks great and runs fantastic so far! :


I must say this is a very nice rig and I see what you were trying to do with the straight runs of tubing but if you would have bent the tubing to make the runs only run vertical and horizontal, it would look alot better.

I work in the fluid power industry and I see alot of stainless steel tubing runs every day and the whole point of running tubing is to keep it level, either horizontally or vertically so it looks better.


----------



## Mas

Ok, so normally I would drain my loop, strip down all the parts and clean them, etc, but I was thinking of trying something like this, since my current loop is brand new and I don't feel the need to actually do a clean on each individual part:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1360901/cleaning-and-flushing-radiators-with-water-filter

but for my whole loop instead of just the rads. I would be using a better filter as well, at 0.002 microns instead of 5 like the one he used.

Thoughts?

Would filtering down to 0.002 microns remove coolant and dye (I want to change to a different colour coolant)? I've read that running gatorade through a brita filter over and over will remove the colouring and taste leaving clear liquid.

Thinking of hooking my loop up to the filter and just running the pump overnight.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> Ok, so normally I would drain my loop, strip down all the parts and clean them, etc, but I was thinking of trying something like this, since my current loop is brand new and I don't feel the need to actually do a clean on each individual part:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1360901/cleaning-and-flushing-radiators-with-water-filter
> 
> but for my whole loop instead of just the rads. I would be using a better filter as well, at 0.002 microns instead of 5 like the one he used.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Would filtering down to 0.002 microns remove coolant and dye (I want to change to a different colour coolant)? I've read that running gatorade through a brita filter over and over will remove the colouring and taste leaving clear liquid.
> 
> Thinking of hooking my loop up to the filter and just running the pump overnight.


What coolant do you have? Pastel is a nano-fluid, X1, and XT-1 are NOT nanofluids.

X1 and XT-1 would probably be fine, but it's definitely a gamble. Pastel would be stripped of all it's nanoparticles with such a fine filter.

I recommend something more along the lines of a coffee filter. There's just no reason to filter down so fine with a PC cooling loop.


----------



## Mas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> What coolant do you have? Pastel is a nano-fluid, X1, and XT-1 are NOT nanofluids.
> 
> X1 and XT-1 would probably be fine, but it's definitely a gamble. Pastel would be stripped of all it's nanoparticles with such a fine filter.
> 
> I recommend something more along the lines of a coffee filter. There's just no reason to filter down so fine with a PC cooling loop.


I'm currently running with some X1 in my loop. Just put it into a brand new build with all new parts a few days ago. I've been having problems with the coolant though, and am probably going to have to remove it all. I'm also keen to try a different colour, maybe a pastel this time around.

The reason I was thinking of doing it with this particular filter is because I wanted something that would filter it down very fine, because I want it to remove all of the coolant, not just the dye.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I had thought about it, since mayhems said if you run aurora through a filter to remove all the pearls it's basically X1 except twice as strong of coloring. On the flop side, it seems rather counter productive to mix X1 with it when you can just use the blood red dye they offer. Saves time with mixing complications, and you don't need to worry about mixing ratios, etc.
> 
> Mayhems posted a video of black Aurora with golden pearls a month or so ago, and that was pretty wicked. Let me see if I can find the video.
> 
> Edit: FOUND IT
> 
> 
> 
> Black Aurora Coolant: Has science gone too far?
> 
> [/Edit]
> Well he sent out testing samples of Aurora + but I would hardly consider it to release soon. Mayhems like to take their sweet time with developing their coolants, but usually the end product is worth the wait. I wouldn't count on it releasing soon.


Has anyone done hole fluid with clack flakes?? That's what I want to try for my next build


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Has anyone done hole fluid with clack flakes?? That's what I want to try for my next build


What is hole fluid? And what are clack flakes?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> I must say this is a very nice rig and I see what you were trying to do with the straight runs of tubing but if you would have bent the tubing to make the runs only run vertical and horizontal, it would look alot better.


I tend to agree.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Personally, I love the look that fittings adds to a build. Flexibility comes in handy too.

Cost part sucks tho


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What is hole fluid? And what are clack flakes?


Holy crap and auto correct on my iPad lol

What I meant to say was, gold fluid with black flakes


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Holy crap and auto correct on my iPad lol
> 
> What I meant to say was, gold fluid with black flakes


That's essentially what that Aurora was. XD, it's a clip Mayhems posted in a thread a while ago. It was a test mix of the Aurora+ with gold pearls and a black coolant.


----------



## ADragg

Hey guys, the build I'm planning right now will use white tubing and gold Monsoon fittings with Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry coolant. So it will be a white on gold look with blue coolant showing up in the acrylic blocks and the 250mm res. However, I hear Pastel isn't compatible with Primochill or Tygon tubing, so I guess Masterclear is my only real choice. However, I hear Primochill Advanced LRT is the ONLY tubing to use and it's the only tubing that's without plasticizer, doesn't leach, etc. I'm not sure how true that is, but I keep reading this. So I'm kind of unsure what to do. Will white Masterclear serve me well or am I better off using Primochill with the Pastel since it's white tubing anyway, and the residue that shows up shouldn't be seen anyway.

What tubing do all of you guys use if Primochill is incompatible? I'm starting to wonder if I should just use clear tubing and Pastel White and forget the blue, but that doesn't even solve my problem since I'd have to use something other than Primochill anyway...


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Hey guys, the build I'm planning right now will use white tubing and gold Monsoon fittings with Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry coolant. So it will be a white on gold look with blue coolant showing up in the acrylic blocks and the 250mm res. However, I hear Pastel isn't compatible with Primochill or Tygon tubing, so I guess Masterclear is my only real choice. However, I hear Primochill Advanced LRT is the ONLY tubing to use and it's the only tubing that's without plasticizer, doesn't leach, etc. I'm not sure how true that is, but I keep reading this. So I'm kind of unsure what to do. Will white Masterclear serve me well or am I better off using Primochill with the Pastel since it's white tubing anyway, and the residue that shows up shouldn't be seen anyway.
> 
> What tubing do all of you guys use if Primochill is incompatible? I'm starting to wonder if I should just use clear tubing and Pastel White and forget the blue, but that doesn't even solve my problem since I'd have to use something other than Primochill anyway...


Primoflex Pro LRT was incompatible, Primochill has since revised their tubing, and released Primoflex Advanced LRT, and discontinued Promflex Pro LRT.

Primoflex Advanced LRT is currently the recommended tubing, and definitely *IS* compatible with Mayhems Pastel.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Just ordered some X1 uv green for my loop!


----------



## kizwan

The difference between distilled water & Mayhems Pastel only a couple of degrees right? No where near 10C or 20C difference right?


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Primoflex Pro LRT was incompatible, Primochill has since revised their tubing, and released Primoflex Advanced LRT, and discontinued Promflex Pro LRT.
> 
> Primoflex Advanced LRT is currently the recommended tubing, and definitely *IS* compatible with Mayhems Pastel.


Thanks and +rep! I'm glad I asked.

BTW, just want to make sure that the Pastel concentrate and distilled water is all I need for my loop. No other additives of any kind are necessary, right? It has all of the anti-corrosives/inhibitors/etc?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Thanks and +rep! I'm glad I asked.
> 
> BTW, just want to make sure that the Pastel concentrate and distilled water is all I need for my loop. No other additives of any kind are necessary, right? It has all of the anti-corrosives/inhibitors/etc?


Correct, Pastel has all the biocides, corrosion inhibitors, and surfactants you need. Pastel should last over two years before you need to drain/clean.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Thanks and +rep! I'm glad I asked.
> 
> BTW, just want to make sure that the Pastel concentrate and distilled water is all I need for my loop. No other additives of any kind are necessary, right? It has all of the anti-corrosives/inhibitors/etc?
> 
> 
> 
> Correct, Pastel has all the biocides, corrosion inhibitors, and surfactants you need. Pastel should last over two years before you need to drain/clean.
Click to expand...

Really? wow thanks for confirming that and I was being skeptical about it since no one answered my post. The Pastel concentrated bottle of 250ml to be mix with 750ml of distilled water. If I can't use all that 1L of mixed pastel with distilled water, how long can I store that left over liquid bottle?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The difference between distilled water & Mayhems Pastel only a couple of degrees right? No where near 10C or 20C difference right?


0.5 to 2.0C is what I see most often quoted.....I'm thinking closer to the first.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Really? wow thanks for confirming that and I was being skeptical about it since no one answered my post. The Pastel concentrated bottle of 250ml to be mix with 750ml of distilled water. If I can't use all that 1L of mixed pastel with distilled water, how long can I store that left over liquid bottle?


See no reason why itt should be anything less than inside ya system....up to 2 years


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Really? wow thanks for confirming that and I was being skeptical about it since no one answered my post. The Pastel concentrated bottle of 250ml to be mix with 750ml of distilled water. If I can't use all that 1L of mixed pastel with distilled water, how long can I store that left over liquid bottle?


Yes you can store excess liquid. Just put it in a non transparent bottle and put it somewhere that doesn't get ridiculously hot like a cupboard in a closet. It should last just as long as the coolant in your loop does.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The difference between distilled water & Mayhems Pastel only a couple of degrees right? No where near 10C or 20C difference right?


.5-2celcius higher *LIQUID* temperatures. The effects on your CPU, GPU, or whatever else device's temperature should be negligible.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 0.5 to 2.0C is what I see most often quoted.....I'm thinking closer to the first.


Thanks. rep+


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Really? wow thanks for confirming that and I was being skeptical about it since no one answered my post. The Pastel concentrated bottle of 250ml to be mix with 750ml of distilled water. If I can't use all that 1L of mixed pastel with distilled water, how long can I store that left over liquid bottle?


If you store it in a cool dark type place and it is sealed, it should be good for a couple years


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Yes you can store excess liquid. Just put it in a non transparent bottle and put it somewhere that doesn't get ridiculously hot like a cupboard in a closet. It should last just as long as the coolant in your loop does.
> .5-2celcius higher *LIQUID* temperatures. The effects on your CPU, GPU, or whatever else device's temperature should be negligible.


True. your cores will be very similar....at load, maybe 1C worst case


----------



## rickyman0319

do yellow coolant or dye stain the system or not? is there such thing as UV yellow or not?


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> do yellow coolant or dye stain the system or not? is there such thing as UV yellow or not?


Over time any colored coolant will stain slightly I am sure. They all have some form of dye in them so it is a possibility. As far as UV yellow try this out. Mayhems UV Lime Yellow. To the naked eye it is quite normal yellow color when no black lights/uv lights are shining on it. Then turn on the UV and its a greenish tint. That seems to be how most UV yellows are.





It is MUCH more yellow in person than in this picture with the UV lighting off. It is hard for me to get my camera set to capture the color correctly. It could also be the lighting/surrounding colors that are making that happen when i take the pictures.


----------



## rickyman0319

how long until u change your coolant? what coolant or dye do u use?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> do yellow coolant or dye stain the system or not? is there such thing as UV yellow or not?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Over time any colored coolant will stain slightly I am sure. They all have some form of dye in them so it is a possibility. As far as UV yellow try this out. Mayhems UV Lime Yellow. To the naked eye it is quite normal yellow color when no black lights/uv lights are shining on it. Then turn on the UV and its a greenish tint. That seems to be how most UV yellows are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is MUCH more yellow in person than in this picture with the UV lighting off. It is hard for me to get my camera set to capture the color correctly. It could also be the lighting/surrounding colors that are making that happen when i take the pictures.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> how long until u change your coolant? what coolant or dye do u use?


Pastel itself will not stain. If you add dye then you may get some. He is using the uv pastel lime green. Without uv lamps it is yellow, under uv lamps it is green. I perdonally haven't seen uv yellow that I can recall. If you want just a yellow fluid, I'd get the pastel sunset yellow


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> how long until u change your coolant? what coolant or dye do u use?


Under normal conditions I would be about 18 months from changing my coolant. Sadly I am having an issue either with a pre production batch of Mayhem's Pastel UV Lime Yellow, or my tubing is somehow bad. Or there is some other issue with my loop. I have a new batch of concentrate on the way to me from Mayhems and I will be redoing my ENTIRE loop very shortly. disposing of this coolant and flushing my system at least 3 times with nothing but distilled water. So new tubing(acrylic), new fittings, and a fresh batch of Pastel UV Lime Yellow by Xmas.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> how long until u change your coolant? what coolant or dye do u use?


X1 or XT-1 usually lasts 1 to 2 years. Pastel lasts 2 to 3 years. Aurora's effect lasts anywhere from 1 day to over a year depending on how your loop is arranged, but it's based on X1 so as far as the biocides/corrosion inhibitors those will last similarly to X1.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh normal dyes coolants stain your system over time. We have been working on a "None dye version of coolant" how ever even though it doesn't contain dyes its actually worse than dye coolant. The reason for this is because we use mayhems made nano dots and they are only 10nm to 20nm in size (they start at 4nm and go up to 30nm but peak at 10nm to 20nm). They are so small the actually get into ever little crack and hideaway possible and this gives the effect of staining but its nothing like that its just the dots seeping into any spaces it can find. How ever the colours are dramatic and when i say dramatic i really mean it. There are unbelievably intense in colour and well nothing like any one has ever seen in water cooling. ill get a Picture up of the blue on Monday if i remember. You wont see them for a very long time though as we've got so much work in progress they are just in a long line of work we have to do.


----------



## The EX1

Been running Red Pastel for about 2 weeks now with new Primochill Advance LRT tubing. I have these light streaks appearing all over my loop.I'm assuming it is plasticizer. I was really hoping that the Advance LRT would of solved this issue for me. Any ideas?


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Been running Red Pastel for about 2 weeks now with new Primochill Advance LRT tubing. I have these light streaks appearing all over my loop.I'm assuming it is plasticizer. I was really hoping that the Advance LRT would of solved this issue for me. Any ideas?


Is it just regular Primochill Advance LRT or PrimoFLEX. Advance LRT is incompatible with Mayhems Pastel. They have a disclaimer on their site. Primochill Primoflex Advance LRT is what you need.

EDIT: This is incorrect. "Primochill Advance LRT" and "Primochill Primoflex Advance LRT" are the same thing. I was thinking of Primochill PRO LRT.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Is it just regular Primochill Advance LRT or PrimoFLEX. Advance LRT is incompatible with Mayhems Pastel. They have a disclaimer on their site. Primochill Primoflex Advance LRT is what you need.


The Primochill Advanced LRT & Promochill Primoflex Advanced LRT are referring to the same tubing. The Primochill PrimoFlex *PRO* LRT tubing is the old one & have plasticizer issue.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

So happy with my results so far with Mayhems.

I am using PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing - 3/8in. ID X 1/2in. OD
Mayhems X1 UV Green mixed with Ultra Pure Mayhems H20.

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0037_zps8f3d1b54.jpg.html

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0039_zpsd5b0976c.jpg.html


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Been running Red Pastel for about 2 weeks now with new Primochill Advance LRT tubing. I have these light streaks appearing all over my loop.I'm assuming it is plasticizer. I was really hoping that the Advance LRT would of solved this issue for me. Any ideas?


Did you use the Prep bottle came from the tube package?


----------



## The EX1

I bought this tubing by the foot from Performance PCs so I did not receive the sysprep bottle. Does it make that big of a difference?


----------



## rickyman0319

what is the sysprep bottle for anyway?

also how do I use it?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what is the sysprep bottle for anyway?
> 
> also how do I use it?


Info are all here: http://www.tylerindustries.com/B2B/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=80


----------



## The EX1

Unless that sysprep bottle somehow removes the chemicals in the tubing that cause plastisizer to leach, I don't see how it would help.


----------



## Mas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Did you use the Prep bottle came from the tube package?


When I bought my PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT clear it came in the PrimoChill box (not buying it by the foot) with nothing else. A vendor that you buy from may sell it bundled together, but I don't think it usually comes that way.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> When I bought my PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT clear it came in the PrimoChill box (not buying it by the foot) with nothing else. A vendor that you buy from may sell it bundled together, but I don't think it usually comes that way.


It does come that way usually. and is not a bundle deal put together at the vendors end.



It's factory sealed package comes with it in it, generally. Maybe they stopped doing it recently as I've heard a few people saying they didn't get one.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

The 10' retail packs come with the Sys prep for $25 ... I think most peeps who need 3 or 4 feet just spend the $10 and buy by the foot tho.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> So happy with my results so far with Mayhems.
> 
> I am using PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing - 3/8in. ID X 1/2in. OD
> Mayhems X1 UV Green mixed with Ultra Pure Mayhems H20.


Fully wc'ed 990FXA-UD3. Nice. I'm curious about the readings for your TMPIN1 & TMPIN2 sensors. It's been argued to death over and over in the owners' forum for the 970/990-UD3 boards over what components those sensors actually show (vrm, NB, socket, etc).

Really interested if your temps for TPMIN1 or TPMIN2 are significantly lower than every one else since you've got the NB and VRM wc'ed. You can PM me if you want so we don't hijack the thread.


----------



## sidewayz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Been running Red Pastel for about 2 weeks now with new Primochill Advance LRT tubing. I have these light streaks appearing all over my loop.I'm assuming it is plasticizer. I was really hoping that the Advance LRT would of solved this issue for me. Any ideas?


this happened to my tubing but a little worst rightnow after a month +. so using advanced lrt still has the same results??


----------



## Mas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It does come that way usually. and is not a bundle deal put together at the vendors end.
> 
> 
> 
> It's factory sealed package comes with it in it, generally. Maybe they stopped doing it recently as I've heard a few people saying they didn't get one.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The 10' retail packs come with the Sys prep for $25 ... I think most peeps who need 3 or 4 feet just spend the $10 and buy by the foot tho.


I have the 10' (3 meter) retail box. No System prep included, for $35AUD. Box looked different too, white coloured.



It could be a US vs Non-US thing too. I'm in Australia, and I've seen pictures on sites from the UK and from Canada with the white box like mine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Been running Red Pastel for about 2 weeks now with new Primochill Advance LRT tubing. I have these light streaks appearing all over my loop.I'm assuming it is plasticizer. I was really hoping that the Advance LRT would of solved this issue for me. Any ideas?


I've also noticed some streaking in my Primochill Advance LRT tubing, after only a few days with my X1 coolant.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewayz*
> 
> this happened to my tubing but a little worst rightnow after a month +. so using advanced lrt still has the same results??


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> *snip*
> 
> I've also noticed some streaking in my Primochill Advance LRT tubing, after only a few days with my X1 coolant.


Did you flush your loop first, to remove all debris in the radiators, waterblocks, etc.? There's just no way Primoflex would have plasticizers building up in that timeline, and if it was build up from pastel it likely wouldn't be white. X1 wouldn't build up to begin with.


----------



## Mas

Yeah mate, all new parts, flushed with hot demineralised water 4-5 times before adding the x1.

I've had several weird things going on with this loop build though, starting with the x1 blood red concentrate coming out of the bottle brown. Mick seems to think the bottle might have been tampered with, like possibly opened by customs. It's hard to tell because the bottle I received is the old style without the new tamper proof seal or something like that.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> I have the 10' (3 meter) retail box. No System prep included, for $35AUD. Box looked different too, white coloured.
> 
> 
> 
> It could be a US vs Non-US thing too. I'm in Australia, and I've seen pictures on sites from the UK and from Canada with the white box like mine.
> I've also noticed some streaking in my Primochill Advance LRT tubing, after only a few days with my X1 coolant.


There is EK logo on the box. *EK also selling Primochill Advanced LRT tube*. The one *ZytheEKS* posted is the *original box*.

I think I read somewhere, at least one case, that they mistakenly get PRO LRT tube instead of Advanced LRT tube (bought per foot). I bought retail pack & so far no problem with Pastel Blue Berry. I don't see any white residue anywhere.


----------



## Mas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> There is EK logo on the box. *EK also selling Primochill Advanced LRT tube*. The one *ZytheEKS* posted is the *original box*.
> 
> I think I read somewhere, at least one case, that they mistakenly get PRO LRT tube instead of Advanced LRT tube (bought per foot). I bought retail pack & so far no problem with Pastel Blue Berry. I don't see any white residue anywhere.


Huh. Yeah, I noticed the EK logo on the box, but had just assumed it was some sort of endorsement from EK, didn't realise the retailer I buy from was sourcing it from them. There is no mention of it when you order from their *site*, and the picture of the product they provide is just the tubing without the box.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

It comes both ways ,.... musta been a promo at som

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c99/s171/list/p1/b46/PrimoChill-Tubing-38_x_12_Tubing-Page1.html


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> I have the 10' (3 meter) retail box. No System prep included, for $35AUD. Box looked different too, white coloured.
> 
> 
> 
> It could be a US vs Non-US thing too. I'm in Australia, and I've seen pictures on sites from the UK and from Canada with the white box like mine.
> I've also noticed some streaking in my Primochill Advance LRT tubing, after only a few days with my X1 coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> There is EK logo on the box. *EK also selling Primochill Advanced LRT tube*. The one *ZytheEKS* posted is the *original box*.
> 
> *I think I read somewhere, at least one case, that they mistakenly get PRO LRT tube instead of Advanced LRT tube (bought per foot). I bought retail pack & so far no problem with Pastel Blue Berry. I don't see any white residue anywhere.*
Click to expand...

That is what I heard, one batch of shipping mixed up.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The Primochill Advanced LRT & Promochill Primoflex Advanced LRT are referring to the same tubing. The Primochill PrimoFlex *PRO* LRT tubing is the old one & have plasticizer issue.


Thanks for correcting me. I edited my post. I'm surprised Mayhems hasn't updated their site to reflect that Primoflex Advanced LRT is compatible, since it seems to be one of the most popular and highly regarded tubing.


----------



## kizwan

You're welcome!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Thanks for correcting me. I edited my post. I'm surprised Mayhems hasn't updated their site to reflect that Primoflex Advanced LRT is compatible, since it seems to be one of the most popular and highly regarded tubing.


I think they are working on a whole new version of the site so probably aren't doing much with the old one. However, I do agree that they should have added a note their pages that say the Advanced is ok


----------



## borax

Hey guys just a quick question.







.. If i buy the mayhems X1 Uv Yellow Green, can I add a mayhems Dye to make it more "Yellow" during daytime?

Thanks:thumb:


----------



## kizwan

According to *Mayhems website*, yes you can.

_Properties & Benefits
· Can be used with all of Mayhems Dyes to make your own colours_


----------



## Hyperlite

I plan to use mayhem aurora tharsis red in my no sal cap 2.0 build, this stuff looks awesome!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Hey guys just a quick question.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. If i buy the mayhems X1 Uv Yellow Green, can I add a mayhems Dye to make it more "Yellow" during daytime?
> 
> Thanks:thumb:


In terms of compatibility between X1 and dye, there are no issues. In terms of dyeing it, i am not so sure you will want to. What shade of yellow were you wanting? You could potentially make it a darker/deeper yellow, but lighter is impossible. Also the dye will likely mess with the UV green effect as well, so you should consider that.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hyperlite*
> 
> I plan to use mayhem aurora tharsis red in my no sal cap 2.0 build, this stuff looks awesome!


I took a look at your loop...I do not think aurora will work well in that loop. It doesn't work too well on complex loops. Aurora 2 will be better, but could be another year before we see that available.

Please read through all of this before considering aurora: http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/aurora-guide.html

You have to design your loop around aurora currently or should expect that the effect will drop out fairly quickly. It doesn't do well with 90 degree bends, lots of rads, or lots of blocks. Based on your diagram, it looks like you have 90 degree fittings planned, lots of rads (4x480s), and lots of blocks (CPU, MB, 4xTitans, and 4x RAM). Honestly, with half of all of that, you'd still probably be stretching the limits of aurora.

I strongly recommend going with something like pastel or x1 for that build to save you from probable disappointment with aurora's effect not being very present in your loop (at least not for long).


----------



## Hyperlite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I took a look at your loop...I do not think aurora will work well in that loop. It doesn't work too well on complex loops. Aurora 2 will be better, but could be another year before we see that available.
> 
> Please read through all of this: http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/aurora-guide.html
> 
> You have to design your loop around aurora currently or should expect that the effect will drop out fairly quickly. I strongly recommend going with something like pastel or x1 for that build to save you from probable disappointment with aurora's effect not being very present in your loop.


Well that sucks... :-(


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hyperlite*
> 
> Well that sucks... :-(


I know









However, Aurora 2 will be much more compatible with more complex loops and have a much longer life in the system..........we just have to wait, lol

And we all are waiting for it too


----------



## ZytheEKS

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hyperlite*
> 
> I plan to use mayhem aurora tharsis red in my no sal cap 2.0 build, this stuff looks awesome!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I took a look at your loop...I do not think aurora will work well in that loop. It doesn't work too well on complex loops. Aurora 2 will be better, but could be another year before we see that available.
> 
> Please read through all of this before considering aurora: http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/aurora-guide.html
> 
> You have to design your loop around aurora currently or should expect that the effect will drop out fairly quickly. It doesn't do well with 90 degree bends, lots of rads, or lots of blocks. Based on your diagram, it looks like you have 90 degree fittings planned, lots of rads (4x480s), and lots of blocks (CPU, MB, 4xTitans, and 4x RAM). Honestly, with half of all of that, you'd still probably be stretching the limits of aurora.
> 
> I strongly recommend going with something like pastel or x1 for that build to save you from probable disappointment with aurora's effect not being very present in your loop (at least not for long).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hyperlite*
> 
> Well that sucks... :-(


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, Aurora 2 will be much more compatible with more complex loops and have a much longer life in the system..........we just have to wait, lol
> 
> And we all are waiting for it too






Well, it looks like you're pouring a lot of money into this. An option you could consider, since you want such an extensive build to be exactly how you want it, is to go dual loops. One simple one with aurora to cool, let's say your CPU, or whatever the most visible device is, and do a mayhems pastel red coolant to match the tone on the rest of the devices.

That's always an option. When you're pouring that much money into a loop, you might as well get it exactly how you want it. XD


----------



## borax

@cyphon

Thanks for the info mate. One quick question. The theme of my build is green/ yellow. I've got a bunch of corsair sp120 fans which Are all going to be sprayed yellow uv or green uv. I wanted to contrast my WC loop along with this so I'm thinking to go with mayhems pastel yellow/ uv
green

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-089-MH&groupid=962&catid=1531

Something like that. Now I can't find much info on how it would look. The mobo im using is a g1 sniper 5 which Is green. What do you reckon on how it would look? Or if you could give some advice


----------



## cyphon

The lime yellow is going to look tellow when your machine/lights are off and it will be glowing green when your machine/lights are on

If you like the uv lights, then it will make the fluid look pretty good. Keep in mind the inside of your case will be purple. I'm personally not a big fan of uv because I don't like my case looking purple lol.

Again up to you. I will try to find a build with the lime yellow in there. Someone posted their bills with it not too long ago


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> @cyphon
> 
> Thanks for the info mate. One quick question. The theme of my build is green/ yellow. I've got a bunch of corsair sp120 fans which Are all going to be sprayed yellow uv or green uv. I wanted to contrast my WC loop along with this so I'm thinking to go with mayhems pastel yellow/ uv
> green
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-089-MH&groupid=962&catid=1531
> 
> Something like that. Now I can't find much info on how it would look. The mobo im using is a g1 sniper 5 which Is green. What do you reckon on how it would look? Or if you could give some advice


Pastel Yellow/UV Green is a very pale yellow.

If you are looking for legit yellow you could consider Pastel Sunset Yellow. THAT shade is VERY vibrant.



Left is Sunset, Right is Lime Green. (Lime Green is only green under UV light.
\


----------



## rickyman0319

I am wondering If u put pastel coolant in the resvior, how do u guys know if it is working or not?

my mobo is Z87M OC Formula. it has color of yellow and black theme.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I am wondering If u put pastel coolant in the resvior, how do u guys know if it is working or not?
> 
> my mobo is Z87M OC Formula. it has color of yellow and black theme.


What do you mean "Whether it's working or not"?

It's just a nanofluid based coolant. You mix the concentrate with water, or if your in the UK you can get it premixed, and run the system.

It's got all the corrosion inhibitors, biocides, and surfactants you need, so just flush, fill, and run. There's nothing special that causes it to "work' or not.


----------



## rickyman0319

I meant if the system is flowing or not.


----------



## Mas

Check your temps, listen to pump, etc

Can usually see movement of the liquid in the res too.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I meant if the system is flowing or not.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> Check your temps, listen to pump, etc
> 
> Can usually see movement of the liquid in the res too.


^^^This^^^

Same drill with most all coolants. Listen to the pump, inlet on your res should cause the top of the coolant to wobble depending on your res, temps are a good indication. A flow-monitor is ideal, but those can be expensive for a non turbine based ones, which I don't recommend for pastel. There's been some reported issues of the nano particles building up at the bearing on the turbine. A flow monitor is not necessary by any means, but are a fun thing to have if you can afford a quality one like the Aquabus pressure based one.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> @cyphon
> 
> Thanks for the info mate. One quick question. The theme of my build is green/ yellow. I've got a bunch of corsair sp120 fans which Are all going to be sprayed yellow uv or green uv. I wanted to contrast my WC loop along with this so I'm thinking to go with mayhems pastel yellow/ uv
> green
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-089-MH&groupid=962&catid=1531
> 
> Something like that. Now I can't find much info on how it would look. The mobo im using is a g1 sniper 5 which Is green. What do you reckon on how it would look? Or if you could give some advice


I spent about 40 minutes getting this pictures color balance just right when taking the pic so hope you appreciate it.. And it still doesnt quite look right. Still has a greenish tint in the image to me. But that could just be my monitor.

Mayhem's Pastel UV Lime Yellow no UV lights



Mayhem's Pastel UV Lime Yellow with UV lights


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> ^^^This^^^
> 
> Same drill with most all coolants. Listen to the pump, inlet on your res should cause the top of the coolant to wobble depending on your res, temps are a good indication. A flow-monitor is ideal, but those can be expensive for a non turbine based ones, which I don't recommend for pastel. *There's been some reported issues of the nano particles building up at the bearing on the turbine.* A flow monitor is not necessary by any means, but are a fun thing to have if you can afford a quality one like the Aquabus pressure based one.


Can you recommend non-turbine flow meter (with display if possible)?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Can you recommend non-turbine flow meter (with display if possible)?


The only one I know of is the Aquacomputer flow sensor. It displays via a software, and it does require the aquabus attachment.

You need this

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13696/bus-271/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_5_LT_USB_Fan_Controller_Liquid_System_Controller_53095.html

and

this
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13694/bus-270/Aquacomputer_G14_Flow_Meter_Sensor_Block_-_Aquaero_Series_Poweradjust_Fan-O-Matic_Pro_Alphacool_Heatmaster_53068.html

That's the only one *I know* of. Maybe there's others out there, I don't know of them as of yet.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> The only one I know of is the Aquacomputer flow sensor. It displays via a software, and it does require the aquabus attachment.
> 
> You need this
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13696/bus-271/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_5_LT_USB_Fan_Controller_Liquid_System_Controller_53095.html
> 
> and
> 
> this
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13694/bus-270/Aquacomputer_G14_Flow_Meter_Sensor_Block_-_Aquaero_Series_Poweradjust_Fan-O-Matic_Pro_Alphacool_Heatmaster_53068.html
> 
> That's the only one *I know* of. Maybe there's others out there, I don't know of them as of yet.


Do you think Koolance INS-FM18D Coolant Flow Meter with Display also non-turbine flow meter? It is cheaper than Aquacomputer. Even if I change all the fittings & tubing to 1/2 in ID (currently 7/16 ID), I think it's still cheaper than AC.

Bitspower flow sensor is turbine flow meter right?


----------



## borax

@Stuntfly02

Thank you so much that was exacly what I was after.. In all honesty if that is the exact tone of the uv lime yellow I actually think in terms of the gigabyte g1 motherboard it would go really well. I aim to paint my sp120s with uv paint most likely yellow to contrast with the coolant. (Just needed a better picture which you provided)







I think my theme will be green/yellow/black? What do you reckon?
Another question... I'm not a huge fan of making my case purple.. neither of adding coloured leds so ill be putting uv strips with white to highlight the parts and colour. Any tips on how to reduce the purple from the uv? Thanks!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Do you think Koolance INS-FM18D Coolant Flow Meter with Display also non-turbine flow meter? It is cheaper than Aquacomputer. Even if I change all the fittings & tubing to 1/2 in ID (currently 7/16 ID), I think it's still cheaper than AC.
> 
> Bitspower flow sensor is turbine flow meter right?


That.... I wasn't aware that exist..

Yes that should work, and yes the bitspower ones I'm pretty sure are all either turbine based or centrifugal based. Centrifugal has the same issues as turbine based.

It uses standard G1/4" threads so you shouldn't have to change your tubing.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It uses standard G1/4" threads so you shouldn't have to change your tubing.


There only three preset ID I can choose & 7/16 ID (11mm) is not one of them. I could set to 10mm ID & have close enough reading.







I can live with that.

rep+


----------



## borax

Or would it be a better option to go with the x1 uv green?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> There only three preset ID I can choose & 7/16 ID (11mm) is not one of them. I could set to 10mm ID & have close enough reading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can live with that.
> 
> rep+


This variant doesn't seem to be concerned with input size:http://koolance.com/dcb-fm01-flow-meter-adapter-with-display

By the time you order that and the flow sensor you're in about $55, About what the other unit costs.

Just an idea, but yeah the 1.1mm wouldn't effect readings that much I'm guessing.

Edit: Never mind, it has the same switch, I just didn't see it hidden behind the bay drive face plate. Oops


----------



## cyphon

@Stuntfly, thanks for the pics, look great!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> @Stuntfly02
> 
> Thank you so much that was exacly what I was after.. In all honesty if that is the exact tone of the uv lime yellow I actually think in terms of the gigabyte g1 motherboard it would go really well. I aim to paint my sp120s with uv paint most likely yellow to contrast with the coolant. (Just needed a better picture which you provided)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think my theme will be green/yellow/black? What do you reckon?
> Another question... I'm not a huge fan of making my case purple.. neither of adding coloured leds so ill be putting uv strips with white to highlight the parts and colour. Any tips on how to reduce the purple from the uv? Thanks!


You cannot really without washing out the uv effect.


----------



## randomnerd865

Has anyone used the purple dye and want to share some pics? Im trying to achieve a really deep royal purple for my build.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> Has anyone used the purple dye and want to share some pics? Im trying to achieve a really deep royal purple for my build.


This is the purple pastel without any other dyes or anything


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> This is the purple pastel without any other dyes or anything


I actually messaged the OP about that color. It is the pastel rasberry purple, not the purple dye. Im looking for a darker, royal purple.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> I actually messaged the OP about that color. It is the pastel rasberry purple, not the purple dye. Im looking for a darker, royal purple.


Misread your post before.

The purple dye is a similar shade to that. You can always add a little more red/blue to darken it


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> I actually messaged the OP about that color. It is the pastel rasberry purple, not the purple dye. Im looking for a darker, royal purple.


Are you looking for a pastel variant or a clear non-pastel variant sample?


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Are you looking for a pastel variant or a clear non-pastel variant sample?


I like the pastel but I don't think I can afford to buy several bottles and play around with mixing it perfectly so I may go with the non-pastel dye with distilled water. On the website you can't really tell how the purple looks, it pretty much looks blue also the purple aurora looks nice too. Maybe just a little to flashy.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> I like the pastel but I don't think I can afford to buy several bottles and play around with mixing it perfectly so I may go with the non-pastel dye with distilled water. On the website you can't really tell how the purple looks, it pretty much looks blue also the purple aurora looks nice too. Maybe just a little to flashy.


Unless someone beats me to it, I have Mayhems Purple dye and can post various concentrations of dye in clear coolant. Won't be able to do that for a few hours though..


----------



## kimoswabi

Here is Mayhems Purple dye in a 250mL bottle and in a tube so that you can get an idea of how the coolant would look like in the reservoir vs. tube.

1 drop of purple dye.


3 drops of purple dye.


5 drops of purple dye.


7 drops of purple dye.


And depending what kind of lighting you use inside your case, the color intensity of the coolant would vary as well.
Hope this helps!


----------



## randomnerd865

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Here is Mayhems Purple dye in a 250mL bottle and in a tube so that you can get an idea of how the coolant would look like in the reservoir vs. tube.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 drops of purple dye.
> 
> 
> 5 drops of purple dye.
> 
> 
> 7 drops of purple dye.
> 
> 
> 
> 1 drop of purple dye.
> 
> And depending what kind of lighting you use inside your case, the color intensity of the coolant would vary as well.
> Hope this helps!


This looks great, thanks for the pics +rep! I ended up ordering the pastel rasberry purple. Im going to either add purple or blue die to make it just a shade darker. Pics to come next week!


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *randomnerd865*
> 
> This looks great, thanks for the pics +rep! I ended up ordering the pastel rasberry purple. Im going to either add purple or blue die to make it just a shade darker. Pics to come next week!










Looking forward to your pics! Remember, a little bit of dye goes a long way.


----------



## Willi

I've been trying to get a red effect on my loop, but the dye seems to dilute after some time (when I just dropped the dye, the fluid darkens visibly, but after a while (usually a couple of days), it loses much of it's color, the fluid turns nearly colorless).

Is that normal? I'm using DI water, Mayhems Biocide Extreme and Mayhems Dye - Deep Red in a hard-acrylic piping, all-copper loop (2 360mm rads, cpu/gpu blocks and this res/pump combo )


----------



## kizwan

I tried to compare the colour of the Pastel Blue Berry in my loop now & when it's still new. I need a fresh pair of eyes. So, does anyone noticed any difference between when it still new (May 2013) & now (today).

*Before*


*Now*


----------



## Buehlar

^^^ I remember when you went custom loop. Still looks just as beautiful now as it was then


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I tried to compare the colour of the Pastel Blue Berry in my loop now & when it's still new. I need a fresh pair of eyes. So, does anyone noticed any difference between when it still new (May 2013) & now (today).
> 
> *Before*
> 
> 
> *Now*


Looks fine to me, no notable difference as far as I can tell.

Pastel doesn't discolor. I've seen someone run 6 month old pastel through a coffee filter, and absolutely no change in color.

The only time pastel discolors is when you have a really messed up pH, in which case I've seen red turn brown, etc.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> ^^^ I remember when you went custom loop. Still looks just as beautiful now as it was then


Thanks!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Looks fine to me, no notable difference as far as I can tell.
> 
> Pastel doesn't discolor. I've seen someone run 6 month old pastel through a coffee filter, and absolutely no change in color.
> 
> The only time pastel discolors is when you have a really messed up pH, in which case I've seen red turn brown, etc.


Thanks. My Advanced LRT tube also remain clear, no discolouration so far.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Looks fine to me, no notable difference as far as I can tell.
> 
> Pastel doesn't discolor. I've seen someone run 6 month old pastel through a coffee filter, and absolutely no change in color.
> 
> The only time pastel discolors is when you have a really messed up pH, in which case I've seen red turn brown, etc.


My orange has kind of turned brown









Jeffinslaw


----------



## sidewayz

my pastel red after a month + usage.....


----------



## Th0rn0

Sidewayz, can you please confirm to me what you have in your loop? I'm guessing it was red lol


----------



## sidewayz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th0rn0*
> 
> Sidewayz, can you please confirm to me what you have in your loop? I'm guessing it was red lol


used to look like this... pastel red



now it looks like maroon pastel :/ also the amber streak


----------



## Redefined

So I'm a bit confused. This is my first WC build, and I chose to go with Mayhem Pastel Red.

I bought the 1L --> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/red-1ltr.html

I don't need to mix this with distilled water, right? The one I ordered (above) is already mixed..?

Also, what happens if I have a little over 1L of fluid required for my loop? Can I add a little bit of distilled water to that mix or will it ruin it and the color? I'd need to buy ANOTHER 1L mix? It costed a fortune to bring it into Canada. If possible, I'd rather avoid this step!

Thanks for your help.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Yes...... note how you "drilled down" the menus to get to

Home > Pastel Coolants> *Pastel Pre-Mix* 1Ltr > Pastel Red 1Ltr

The concentrate, the one ya mix the 250nl bottle w/ 750ml of DW is at

Home > Pastel Coolants > *Pastel Concentrate* 250m >Pastel Red 250ml

It's only a £ difference in price but I imagine shipping will be quite a bit more for 1 kg package. Of course depends on what ya pay for DW over there.


----------



## Redefined

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yes...... note how you "drilled down" the menus to get to
> 
> Home > Pastel Coolants> *Pastel Pre-Mix* 1Ltr > Pastel Red 1Ltr


I actually didn't buy it off of Mayhems own site because they didn't have shipping options to Canada. Thanks though!

What about the question of potentially requiring more than 1L? Can I add distilled water to make it enough or is that not a good idea? What are my options?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> I actually didn't buy it off of Mayhems own site because they didn't have shipping options to Canada. Thanks though!
> 
> What about the question of potentially requiring more than 1L? Can I add distilled water to make it enough or is that not a good idea? What are my options?


If you need a bit more fluid you can add distilled water. The color won't change.


----------



## Redefined

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> If you need a bit more fluid you can add distilled water. The color won't change.


Thanks for the information. I appreciate it.

What's like, the maximum amount of distilled water I should add to my 1L pre-mix? I ask because to my understanding, my loop is decently large. Just trying to do some estimates and minor planning ahead of the build on what to do.


----------



## rickyman0319

what color of dye to make UV orange or just orange?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> Thanks for the information. I appreciate it.
> 
> What's like, the maximum amount of distilled water I should add to my 1L pre-mix? I ask because to my understanding, my loop is decently large. Just trying to do some estimates and minor planning ahead of the build on what to do.


I would not put to many distilled if you want to keep the performances of the liquid at a decent level. Maybe a couple of 100ml max.

What's in your loop?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what color of dye to make UV orange or just orange?


For just orange you only need orange dye









If you want to go UV you'll need orange dye and uv pink dye but be aware that uv pink dye is the worst in terms of staining the components of your loop.


----------



## Redefined

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I would not put to many distilled if you want to keep the performances of the liquid at a decent level. Maybe a couple of 100ml max.
> 
> What's in your loop?


-> 360 & 480 rad
-> Swiftech MCP655 with top
-> EK Supremacy block
-> EK 780 Lightning block
-> EK X3 Res 400ml
-> Maximus VI Hero Mosfet block


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> -> 360 & 480 rad
> -> Swiftech MCP655 with top
> -> EK Supremacy block
> -> EK 780 Lightning block
> -> EK X3 Res 400ml
> -> Maximus VI Hero Mosfet block


Just to be sure...

You have the EK X3 Res 400mm which holds 820ml or the EK X3 Res 250mm which holds 440ml?


----------



## Redefined

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Just to be sure...
> 
> You have the EK X3 Res 400mm which holds 820ml or the EK X3 Res 250mm which holds 440ml?


The title of the reservoir is "EK X3 Res 400mm" lol. --> http://ncix.com/products/?sku=79232&vpn=3831109841037&manufacture=EK%20Water%20Blocks&promoid=1198


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> The title of the reservoir is "EK X3 Res 400mm" lol. --> http://ncix.com/products/?sku=79232&vpn=3831109841037&manufacture=EK%20Water%20Blocks&promoid=1198


Okay! That's a big reservoir!!!!!!!!!!

I definitely think you will need more than the 1 liter bottle you bought. You should buy another 250ml concentrate bottle to create another liter of liquid.


----------



## Th0rn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> I actually didn't buy it off of Mayhems own site because they didn't have shipping options to Canada. Thanks though!
> 
> What about the question of potentially requiring more than 1L? Can I add distilled water to make it enough or is that not a good idea? What are my options?


Yes you can add distilled water although adding too much may effect the color.

And I'd recommend getting 2-3 ltr just to be sure.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I just used their number cause thatz what ya linked to..... shipping will be relative no matter where ya are.....always cost more to ship 4 times the weight.

As to ya volume question .... I didn't think to measure on initial fill but after a drain (getting out as much as I could) , my system took 1.8 liters .... and no....I would maintain the 1:3 concentrate to DW ratio .... if ya have as much capacity (or more than I do, you would be close to half strength

I have 420 + 280 rads, 250 mm reservoir, CPU Block, 2 GFX card blocks plus acrylcic tubes, fittings and 35x2 pump.


----------



## Redefined

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Okay! That's a big reservoir!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> I definitely think you will need more than the 1 liter bottle you bought. You should buy another 250ml concentrate bottle to create another liter of liquid.


Yeah. Guess I'll need a 250ml concentrate to make another L.

Any suggestions on the cheapest place to get it over to Ontario, Canada?

I see your from Canadia!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

FrozenCPU would be the closest .... one of ya mates just drove down to visit ....made a video on their facebook page....cuda brot back for you









What about Dazmode ?


----------



## Redefined

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> FrozenCPU would be the closest .... one of ya mates just drove down to visit ....made a video on their facebook page....cuda brot back for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What about Dazmode ?


Dazmode doesn't have any pastel red. I've already checked =(

Yeah, maybe FrozenCPU. I just don't want to pay a fortune on shipping (and possibly duty) but need it by December 9th!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> Yeah. Guess I'll need a 250ml concentrate to make another L.
> 
> Any suggestions on the cheapest place to get it over to Ontario, Canada?
> 
> I see your from Canadia!


Daz doesn't currently have Pastel Red in stock. But I have something for you









I'm sending you a PM


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> FrozenCPU would be the closest .... one of ya mates just drove down to visit ....made a video on their facebook page....cuda brot back for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What about Dazmode ?
> 
> 
> 
> Dazmode doesn't have any pastel red. I've already checked =(
> 
> Yeah, maybe FrozenCPU. I just don't want to pay a fortune on shipping (and possibly duty) but need it by December 9th!
Click to expand...

Pastel White + Mayhems Red Dye but I bought the last Mayhems Red Dye from Dazmode. Also have blue dye. Planning to make it blood red.


----------



## pompss

hey guys
any suggestion for quick release fittings and some reusable clamps ??
I have barbs mounted and i would like to add some quick fittings in order to disconnect my vga easily from my loop.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Just ordered me some Ice White for a new build I am working on.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1445628/build-log-little-italy-mitx-build


----------



## rickyman0319

I just bought one orange and yellow dye right now. what color do I get if I mixed one or two drops each? And how long do I have change it? Does it stain on the system ( pump, resvior ,wb and rdatiro?


----------



## Nikozii

I would like to know is Mayhems Deep Red based on pink?

It isnt UV- reactive, so I dont think so. Anyway I would like to hear truth. I cant find answer by internet by myself so I decided to ask from you guys.


----------



## Mayhem

@Nikozii Our red dye is not based on pink its a red dye. How ever UV Red has pink + Red in it.

@rickyman0319 What colour are you after. it need changing once a year as per the norm.


----------



## randomnerd865

I ordered the pastel rasberry purple concentrate. Would adding blue or even black dye make for a deeper purple but still have that pastel look?


----------



## Mayhem

adding a small amount of blue will darken it but see how it goes first. you can even add more purple dye if you wish.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> FrozenCPU would be the closest .... one of ya mates just drove down to visit ....made a video on their facebook page....cuda brot back for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What about Dazmode ?
> 
> 
> 
> Dazmode doesn't have any pastel red. I've already checked =(
> 
> Yeah, maybe FrozenCPU. I just don't want to pay a fortune on shipping (and possibly duty) but need it by December 9th!
Click to expand...

Did you know,you can email DazMode dude ask if he can stock it for you. I've done some special request. He might gets them in couple of weeks.


----------



## ozzy1925

a noob question: i want to buy mayhems Pastel Ice White 250ml and as i checked the web site it suggests to use with Purified water which is distilled water?also do i need to add extra biocides or any other chemicals?ty


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> a noob question: i want to buy mayhems Pastel Ice White 250ml and as i checked the web site it suggests to use with Purified water which is d or distilled water?also do i need to add extra biocides or any other chemicals?ty


pure water is DI water.
Buy DI water from foodmarket and save money
Pastel have biocides inside so you dont need to add extra


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> hey guys
> any suggestion for quick release fittings and some reusable clamps ??
> I have barbs mounted and i would like to add some quick fittings in order to disconnect my vga easily from my loop.


I used the Bitspower ones with the compression fitting on the drain line that normally sits in the drawer and hard piped the other side. I think a clamp might be hard on the hands.

Quick-Disconnect for Drain - Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Male w/ Inner G1/4 (BP-MBQDMIG14) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17966/ex-tub-1636/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Male_w_Inner_G14_BP-MBQDMIG14.html

Quick-Disconnect for Drain - Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread (BP-MBQDFG14) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17965/ex-tub-1635/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Female_w_G14_Thread_BP-MBQDFG14.html

G1/4" x Compression Connector (Male) - Bitspower G1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD Rotary Compression Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBRCPF-CC2) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11107/ex-tub-700/Bitspower_G14_Thread_38_ID_x_12_OD_Rotary_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBRCPF-CC2.html?tl=c409s1032b145


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> pure water is DI water.
> Buy DI water from foodmarket and save money
> Pastel have biocides inside so you dont need to add extra


thanks


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Nikozii Our red dye is not based on pink its a red dye. How ever UV Red has pink + Red in it.


I have just under 2L of liquid in my loop w/ two 250 bottles a of Red Pastel concentrate ..... Red is a lil lighter (pinker) than I'd like ..... aiming for "RoG Red" .... suggestions ?



I have some time before starting sleeving .... fingertips a but saw from Knurling the fittings on and off









BTW, ran the loop for 4 days w/ purer DW .... RoG bench gave me 4.6 GHz on 4770 with top temps of 76, 71, 69, 64 (70 average) w/ ambient at about 21.2C

With 2 bottles of Mayems in 2L mix, I'm seeing 76, 74, 71, 65 (71.5 average) but my ambient is up at 23.5C

Was kinda expecting a temp increase ....but CPU temps increased 1.5 on averge while ambient went up 2.3


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Nikozii Our red dye is not based on pink its a red dye. How ever UV Red has pink + Red in it.
> 
> @rickyman0319 What colour are you after. it need changing once a year as per the norm.


the color I am after for is yellow, gold, orange.

http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z87M%20OC%20Formula/

I am try to change this color.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7175/asrock-z87m-oc-formula-review-matx-oc-at-200


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> a noob question: i want to buy mayhems Pastel Ice White 250ml and as i checked the web site it suggests to use with Purified water which is distilled water?also do i need to add extra biocides or any other chemicals?ty


Just mix with distilled water from the store. The pastel has all biocides and inhibitors in it so do NOT add anything else... can really throw everything out of balance of you do and cause damage to you system.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> a noob question: i want to buy mayhems Pastel Ice White 250ml and as i checked the web site it suggests to use with Purified water which is distilled water?also do i need to add extra biocides or any other chemicals?ty


Purified water is referring to DI water (de-ionize water) & distilled water. Distilled water is purer but you can use either one.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Purified water is referring to DI water (de-ionize water) & distilled water. Distilled water is purer but you can use either one.


Actually distilled water and deionized water are usually both extremely close in purity, with a possible slight advantage to deionized. The primary difference is that deionized water has no pH and is inherently dielectric. It does reionize after time, and will regain it's pH over time as well as loose it's dielectric capabilities. Most people just go with distilled water, as the benefits of DI typically don't justify the extra cost, and distilled water is just readily available.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just mix with distilled water from the store. The pastel has all biocides and inhibitors in it so do NOT add anything else... can really throw everything out of balance of you do and cause damage to you system.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Purified water is referring to DI water (de-ionize water) & distilled water. Distilled water is purer but you can use either one.


i will get DI from my mothers pharmacy ty both


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Nikozii Our red dye is not based on pink its a red dye. How ever UV Red has pink + Red in it.
> 
> @rickyman0319 What colour are you after. it need changing once a year as per the norm.
> 
> 
> 
> the color I am after for is yellow, gold, orange.
> 
> http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z87M%20OC%20Formula/
> 
> I am try to change this color.
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/7175/asrock-z87m-oc-formula-review-matx-oc-at-200
Click to expand...

If your after a Clear colour the yellow on its own will look like pee and adding orange wont make it any closer. the best match for that would be pastel yellow with a touch of orange to dampen it down a little.


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If your after a Clear colour the yellow on its own will look like pee and adding orange wont make it any closer. the best match for that would be pastel yellow with a touch of orange to dampen it down a little.


so I need to get pastel yellow and a touch of orange dye.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Actually distilled water and deionized water are usually both extremely close in purity, with a possible slight advantage to deionized. The primary difference is that deionized water has no pH and is inherently dielectric. It does reionize after time, and will regain it's pH over time as well as loose it's dielectric capabilities. Most people just go with distilled water, as the benefits of DI typically don't justify the extra cost, and distilled water is just readily available.


Distilled water, unless contaminated after the fact, will be completely free of bacteria and organic compounds but will contain some traces of minerals and salts

De-ionized water, unless contaminated after the fact, will be completely free of minerals and salts but needs additional processing to remove organics and all bacteria

That's the definition given by the company that supplies testing labs with their reagents and water. They de-ionize and then use carbon filtration and reverse osmosis. Of course that costs a bit more than the 88 cent stuff at Walmart.


----------



## 01010011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I have just under 2L of liquid in my loop w/ two 250 bottles a of Red Pastel concentrate ..... Red is a lil lighter (pinker) than I'd like ..... aiming for "RoG Red" .... suggestions ?
> 
> 
> 
> I have some time before starting sleeving .... fingertips a but saw from Knurling the fittings on and off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, ran the loop for 4 days w/ purer DW .... RoG bench gave me 4.6 GHz on 4770 with top temps of 76, 71, 69, 64 (70 average) w/ ambient at about 21.2C
> 
> With 2 bottles of Mayems in 2L mix, I'm seeing 76, 74, 71, 65 (71.5 average) but my ambient is up at 23.5C
> 
> Was kinda expecting a temp increase ....but CPU temps increased 1.5 on averge while ambient went up 2.3


Your loop is awesome, congratulations!








To make the color more red I think you can add a few drops of red dye.


----------



## Redefined

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *01010011*
> 
> 
> Your loop is awesome, congratulations!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the color more red I think you can add a few drops of red dye.


One of the nicest looking loops in terms of tube routing that I've seen. Awesome job. Straight lines everywhere!

I've got 2L of Pastel Red on the way for my first WC loop this week. Hoping it's a touch darker than that, lol.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> One of the nicest looking loops in terms of tube routing that I've seen. Awesome job. Straight lines everywhere!
> 
> I've got 2L of Pastel Red on the way for my first WC loop this week. Hoping it's a touch darker than that, lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *01010011*
> 
> Your loop is awesome, congratulations!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the color more red I think you can add a few drops of red dye.


Thank you both, much appreciated..... was hard work but enjoyed every second of it. Bit of angst along the way ....even though everything worked on air.... was afraid that something wouldn't work and I'd have to take whole thing apart.









Yes, I expect the red dye will do it.....worried about "overdoing it" .... was hoping Mr. Mayhem would chime in with a "drops" number.

My son came home and looked at it .... last time he saw had DW in there..... he works at Wendy's and texted me beforehand asking if i wanted to him to bring home a "Frostee"...... told hoim no thanks, just had a drink from 7-Eleven ...... when he saw the red, he said:

"I thought ya said ya had a drink at 7-eleven ..... I didn't think ya were going to bring a strawberry slushie home and stick in in ta computer !"

For those of you who may not know what a slushie is ... though ya think if he was selling it, he wuda let the middle one finish getting the liquid to its frozen state ... looks like they just added fresh mix.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yRojSDgwgU

Which gave me an idea for next loop ..... I have one of these left over from my partying days ....I think it would do a great job running my loops thru there .... one "reservoir" for each computer









In cheery, blueberry and lemonade !

But son was right ....it's almost perfect slushie color .... meybe mahems will rename it !


----------



## snef

Hi

Mayhems, need your help on this one

now my coolant is Pastel Sunset yellow plus 6 drop of orange + one drop of Pink

I want it more like sleeving /Fan Ring (same color in real)







I need to place an order for 2 others Sunset yellow, wait your answer before ordering

Thanks


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> 
> Mayhems, need your help on this one
> 
> now my coolant is Pastel Sunset yellow plus 6 drop of orange + one drop of Pink
> 
> I want it more like sleeving /Fan Ring (same color in real)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to place an order for 2 others Sunset yellow, wait your answer before ordering
> 
> Thanks


I want some orange juices now.


----------



## prostreetcamaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Actually distilled water and deionized water are usually both extremely close in purity, with a possible slight advantage to deionized. The primary difference is that deionized water has no pH and is inherently dielectric. It does reionize after time, and will regain it's pH over time as well as loose it's dielectric capabilities. Most people just go with distilled water, as the benefits of DI typically don't justify the extra cost, and distilled water is just readily available.


I have my own deionizer. Never thought when I bought it I would ever use it to make ultra pure water for my computer but that is what I am about to do soon. It is actually intended for washing cars so you can wash it without having to dry the car and it will dry 100% spotless even a black car on a sunny 100 degree day. It has a built in TDS meter so I can see when the resin starts to deplete.

Anyway does anybody have a recipe to make a super bright burn your eyes BOLD neon orange? The pastel orange looks like actual orange juice. I am looking for holy cow that is blazing neon orange!


----------



## prostreetcamaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prostreetcamaro*
> 
> I have my own deionizer. Never thought when I bought it I would ever use it to make ultra pure water for my computer but that is what I am about to do soon. It is actually intended for washing cars so you can wash it without having to dry the car and it will dry 100% spotless even a black car on a sunny 100 degree day. It has a built in TDS meter so I can see when the resin starts to deplete. Man the resin is pricey when it needs to be replaced!
> 
> Anyway does anybody have a recipe to make a super bright burn your eyes BOLD neon orange? The pastel orange looks like actual orange juice. I am looking for holy cow that is blazing neon orange!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> 
> Mayhems, need your help on this one
> 
> now my coolant is Pastel Sunset yellow plus 6 drop of orange + one drop of Pink
> 
> I want it more like sleeving /Fan Ring (same color in real)
> 
> I need to place an order for 2 others Sunset yellow, wait your answer before ordering
> 
> Thanks


I think you should duplicate that build and sell sell it to the folks at "Orange Julius" ......damn it now I want one !


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prostreetcamaro*
> 
> I have my own deionizer. Never thought when I bought it I would ever use it to make ultra pure water for my computer but that is what I am about to do soon. It is actually intended for washing cars so you can wash it without having to dry the car and it will dry 100% spotless even a black car on a sunny 100 degree day. It has a built in TDS meter so I can see when the resin starts to deplete.
> 
> Anyway does anybody have a recipe to make a super bright burn your eyes BOLD neon orange? The pastel orange looks like actual orange juice. I am looking for holy cow that is blazing neon orange!


X1 with a ton of UV Orange dye. Bright florescent is really hard to get right, as you need lots of UV dye and powerful blacklights.

Your best bet would be 2 or 3 Black light cathodes mounted to the front clear panel so you can't see them, but they shine on everything you can see, then really drop in the UV orange dye.


----------



## pompss

it is possibile to make mayhems uv red pastel???


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> it is possibile to make mayhems uv red pastel???


You could get the white and maybe add some UV pink and purple or blue dye to darken it.


----------



## ADragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> 
> Mayhems, need your help on this one
> 
> now my coolant is Pastel Sunset yellow plus 6 drop of orange + one drop of Pink
> 
> I want it more like sleeving /Fan Ring (same color in real)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to place an order for 2 others Sunset yellow, wait your answer before ordering
> 
> Thanks


That thing is incredible! The EK backplates don't come in white, do they? So you painted it? Also, what sort of lighting is that? Regular white 5050 LED's or cold cathode or? I want to get that same kind of white glow that looks slightly blue.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> That thing is incredible! The EK backplates don't come in white, do they? So you painted it? Also, what sort of lighting is that? Regular white 5050 LED's or cold cathode or? I want to get that same kind of white glow that looks slightly blue.


thanks

no, EK dont do any white backplate, i painted both with plasti-dip,

and i used Cold White CCFL, (cold cathode, and be sure to not ordering warm white)
i think for white and uv, CCFL are better


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> it is possibile to make mayhems uv red pastel???


You can add a ton of UV pink to it and get a UV red effect. You will stain your tube/blocks/etc with the amount of UV pink you will need to use


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You can add a ton of UV pink to it and get a UV red effect. You will stain your tube/blocks/etc with the amount of UV pink you will need to use


i hear the dyes stain in primochill tubing.
And if buy red pastel and add some clear uv dyes????
Do u think it would stain????


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> i hear the dyes stain in primochill tubing.
> And if buy red pastel and add some clear uv dyes????
> Do u think its would stain????


Dyes stain anything because they are dyes. The amount, type, and duration of time the dye is in the loop will determine how bad or how permanent the staining would be.

Notoriously, UV are the worst in terms of staining, specifically UV pink. Clear dyes will not stain, or at least you won't be able to see the stain









Now, to what you are getting at, can you add clear UV to red pastel to make it glow red....no you cannot.

The UV reactive dye doesn't just make the fluid reactive and glow the color of the fluid it is in (though it would be sweet if it did!). The dye has a specific pigment that reacts, and that is the color that it gives off. In case of the clear dyes, this is usually a blue.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Dyes stain anything because they are dyes. The amount, type, and duration of time the dye is in the loop will determine how bad or how permanent the staining would be.
> 
> Notoriously, UV are the worst in terms of staining, specifically UV pink. Clear dyes will not stain, or at least you won't be able to see the stain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, to what you are getting at, can you add clear UV to red pastel to make it glow red....no you cannot.
> 
> The UV reactive dye doesn't just make the fluid reactive and glow the color of the fluid it is in (though it would be sweet if it did!). The dye has a specific pigment that reacts, and that is the color that it gives off. In case of the clear dyes, this is usually a blue.


what about x1 red and white uv pastel ???


----------



## pompss

i see the pastel its not good for primochill tubing because it change the color


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> what about x1 red and white uv pastel ???


First, you wouldn't want to mix X1 and Pastel.
Second, White UV Pastel has a pigment to glow blue, so it is the same thing as stated before.

If you want a red glow, you need to add UV pink, really only way you can do it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> i see the pastel its not good for primochill tubing because it change the color


Not really true. The Primochill PRO LRT had pasticizers in it, which eventually leak into the fluid. this clouds the tubes and can cause blockage in extreme cases. the plasticizer would also 'strip' color out of the fluid.

Since then, Prmochill released the Advance LRT tube, which is plasticizer free. This tube IS the recommended soft tube for really anything right now as it is building a great track record of no plasticizer issues.

The other cases of fluids changing color are almost always because of an pH imbalance. This usually happens when a system is not prepped correctly. Most often, the rads are not flushed completely before adding fluids and there is an excess of rad flux left in the rads.


----------



## vaporizer

i have extra XT-1 mixed with DI from when i filled my loop about one year ago. Does anyone know if my mix is still good as i have never used it and it has been stored in the closet the whole time? i have read the concentrate is good for three years if stored properly. any help would be helpful as it is time for me to change my fluid.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> i have extra XT-1 mixed with DI from when i filled my loop about one year ago. Does anyone know if my mix is still good as i have never used it and it has been stored in the closet the whole time? i have read the concentrate is good for three years if stored properly. any help would be helpful as it is time for me to change my fluid.


It should still be good, especially if it's still just the concentrate.


----------



## darwing

I really wish auora was able to be used efficiently, yes it's a little worse in temps, but I wouldn't care due to its aesthetics...

Any word when they will release auora 2 and if they are making it A) not clog your blocks and B) have the crystals not stick to tubing and C) last longer then a few months before staining and possibly ruining your tubes and blocks?

I love the look just wish it wasn't such a negative fluid, pros don't outweigh the cons ;(


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> I really wish auora was able to be used efficiently, yes it's a little worse in temps, but I wouldn't care due to its aesthetics...
> 
> Any word when they will release auora 2 and if they are making it A) not clog your blocks and B) have the crystals not stick to tubing and C) last longer then a few months before staining and possibly ruining your tubes and blocks?
> 
> I love the look just wish it wasn't such a negative fluid, pros don't outweigh the cons ;(


Aurora doesn't clog your blocks. The nano-particles are 60nm wide. There's just no way something that small could build up big enough to clog a .5mm wide liquid channel. You would need five hundred thousand pearls wide worth of clog to fill a .5mm gap. That just won't happen. It usually doesn't stain your tubing either. It has an X1 base, so it's no more likely to stain your blocks than X1. The problem is the pearls get caught in all the nooks and crevices in our loop, and don't stay in suspension. All the compression fittings, the O-rings, the T-fittings, and all that cause the pearls to get stuck. After that you have this off white build up everywhere in your loop, and the pearlecent look fades.

Aurora 2 has no ETA. It has been put into testing, but who knows what that means. It might be fine, and move to large scale manufacturing, then priced and shipped everywhere, or it might need to be revised, and tested again.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Aurora doesn't clog your blocks. The nano-particles are 60nm wide. There's just no way something that small could build up big enough to clog a .5mm wide liquid channel. You would need five hundred thousand pearls wide worth of clog to fill a .5mm gap. That just won't happen. It usually doesn't stain your tubing either. It has an X1 base, so it's no more likely to stain your blocks than X1. The problem is the pearls get caught in all the nooks and crevices in our loop, and don't stay in suspension. All the compression fittings, the O-rings, the T-fittings, and all that cause the pearls to get stuck. After that you have this off white build up everywhere in your loop, and the pearlecent look fades.
> 
> Aurora 2 has no ETA. It has been put into testing, but who knows what that means. It might be fine, and move to large scale manufacturing, then priced and shipped everywhere, or it might need to be revised, and tested again.


All of this.

And ability to live in more coplex builds without losing the effect and a longer system life are a couple of the goals they are trying to achieve with aurora2


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> All of this.
> 
> And ability to live in more coplex builds without losing the effect and a longer system life are a couple of the goals they are trying to achieve with aurora2


It is just such an amazing look I hope there is hope for these things to get worked out cause I'd be all over it!!


----------



## Balanar

At present, does Aurora last for a long time (<6 months) even in a simple loop? Simple = 1 pump, 1 360 rad, 1 cpu block, 1 res.


----------



## Scorpion49

So I got some Pastel Red concentrate, and I have to say it is not very red. Its salmon pink. My camera had a real hard time catching the color but I got a shot that shows sort of what my eye sees, the bottom hose in this one:










What dye should I add to it to get a little more "red" out of it?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balanar*
> 
> At present, does Aurora last for a long time (<6 months) even in a simple loop? Simple = 1 pump, 1 360 rad, 1 cpu block, 1 res.


It's been reported to last from 1 day to over a year depending on the loop. A few follow up questions:

What 360 radiator do you have? The biggest issue with radiators is the lanes. They extrude out from the end chambers and leave a spot for the pearls to get stuck in. Single row radiators work the best.

What reservoir do you have? Bay reservoirs are a big red flag. Cylindrical reservoirs mounted vertically work the best.

What pump do you have? D5s work but need to be at setting 4 or 5 to work. DDCs also work, but you need to run them very near max.

What CPU block do you have? EK Supremacy with no injection plate works best. The J3 injection plate also works, if memory serves.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balanar*
> 
> At present, does Aurora last for a long time (<6 months) even in a simple loop? Simple = 1 pump, 1 360 rad, 1 cpu block, 1 res.


Was used here for about 9 months including a 5 week shutdown

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7eboct_ckQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> So I got some Pastel Red concentrate, and I have to say it is not very red. Its salmon pink. My camera had a real hard time catching the color but I got a shot that shows sort of what my eye sees, the bottom hose in this one:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What dye should I add to it to get a little more "red" out of it?


I have asked the exact same questions 3 times in this thread but having rec'd no response, sent inquiry to mayems ..... was a bit disappointed in the lack of clarity in the answer...... waiting for 2nd response


----------



## Anoxy

Has anyone here mixed up a grey/silver color in their build? I like the clean look of distilled in my build right now, but I feel like I might want to experiment a bit in the near future....


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> What dye should I add to it to get a little more "red" out of it?


I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say RED?









Note that there is no such thing as UV red, so if you're using "UV Red" coolant, it's actually UV Pink that is used to make it uv reactive. That may be why you're seeing a salmon pink tone to it.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say RED?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that there is no such thing as UV red, so if you're using "UV Red" coolant, it's actually UV Pink that is used to make it uv reactive. That may be why you're seeing a salmon pink tone to it.


The limb you're on has a good chance of being the wrong one. For example, the pastel green takes dark blue to get a greener color. As far as I know this isn't UV reactive.


----------



## chrisnyc75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> The limb you're on has a good chance of being the wrong one. For example, the pastel green takes dark blue to get a greener color. As far as I know this isn't UV reactive.


Yeah, but green isn't a primary color; Red is.

To make pastel green "greener" (i.e. less yellowy) you add dark blue because blue + yellow = green. Too much yellow gives you a celery or limey color, to make it "greener" you would add dark blue to balance the yellow.

Red is just red. If it's looking pink, there is likely too much white bleeding through (white + red = pink). Add more red to achieve a "redder" look. A hint of dark blue would make it richer, though (see also: blood red, there's a video showing how to achieve this look)


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, but green isn't a primary color; Red is.
> 
> To make pastel green "greener" (i.e. less yellowy) you add dark blue because blue + yellow = green. Too much yellow gives you a celery or limey color, to make it "greener" you would add dark blue to balance the yellow.
> 
> Red is just red. If it's looking pink, there is likely too much white bleeding through (white + red = pink). Add more red to achieve a "redder" look. A hint of dark blue would make it richer, though (see also: blood red, there's a video showing how to achieve this look)


I'm aware of what primary colors are. However, this strategy has not always worked with Mayhems dyes, possibly due to the makeup of the different mixtures. My friend uses red aurora fluid and added red dye and ended up with brown. I really don't want to make a guess at it and buy some dye and then have to drain it all out and buy more of everything. The red isn't even the color it was advertised to be in the first place so I'm trying to be careful with what I do.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> So I got some Pastel Red concentrate, and I have to say it is not very red. Its salmon pink. My camera had a real hard time catching the color but I got a shot that shows sort of what my eye sees, the bottom hose in this one:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What dye should I add to it to get a little more "red" out of it?


Was it "salmon pink" straight out of the container? I hear ya about the camera and lighting not capturing the correct colors of coolant... I have Mayhems purple dye/ coolant that looks purple or blue depending on the lighting.
You can try adding a little bit of blue coloring (not drops but blue mixed with some distilled water).

Here's Mayhem's video instructions on how to darken a red coolant. Fast Forward to 3:35.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Although, if your coolant is pink, adding more blue might turn it more purple rather than darker red.
If you have extra salmon pink pastel coolant, run some tests by adding in small amounts of blue mix and see how the color might change.

When I bought the X1 blood red concentrate awhile ago and added the correct amount of distilled water as per the instructions, the coolant turned out light red with a bit of orange'ish tinge to it. I added a little bit of dark blue mix till it darkened my coolant to the correct "blood red" color I wanted.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Was it "salmon pink" straight out of the container? I hear ya about the camera and lighting not capturing the correct colors of coolant... I have Mayhems purple dye/ coolant that looks purple or blue depending on the lighting.
> You can try adding a little bit of blue coloring (not drops but blue mixed with some distilled water).
> 
> Here's Mayhem's video instructions on how to darken a red coolant. Fast Forward to 3:35.
> 
> Although, if your coolant is pink, adding more blue might turn it more purple rather than darker red.
> If you have extra salmon pink pastel coolant, run some tests by adding in small amounts of blue mix and see how the color might change.
> 
> When I bought the X1 blood red concentrate awhile ago and added the correct amount of distilled water as per the instructions, the coolant turned out light red with a bit of orange'ish tinge to it. I added a little bit of dark blue mix till it darkened my coolant to the correct "blood red" color I wanted.


Thank you! I do have some dark blue left over from another build, and yes it did come out of the container salmon pink. I bought two 250ml and they are both the same, not even close to red. It looks more red in my system than the bottle thanks to the red lighting and parts.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Was it "salmon pink"


When you see a guy thats wearing a pink shirt and you say, Is that a pink shirt dude? And he says no, its salmon. That is salmon pink


----------



## p33k

I am wanting some UV Pastel white. I was wondering if the information in the OP is outdated or what... It says "UV White (this is only available in 1 Ltr premix and cannot be made in 250ml concentrate)." I also do not see concentrate on Mayhem's website... but here in Korea, the only water cooling company to buy from seem to have it. http://www.ttorysystems.com/goods/view?no=447

Cheers!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisnyc75*
> 
> Yeah, but green isn't a primary color; Red is.
> 
> To make pastel green "greener" (i.e. less yellowy) you add dark blue because blue + yellow = green. Too much yellow gives you a celery or limey color, to make it "greener" you would add dark blue to balance the yellow.
> 
> Red is just red. If it's looking pink, there is likely too much white bleeding through (white + red = pink). Add more red to achieve a "redder" look. A hint of dark blue would make it richer, though (see also: blood red, there's a video showing how to achieve this look)


Chris....or anyone else who can speak from direct experience.....

I have a 1.9 liter mix of Mayems Red Pastel (500ml of concentrate 1400ml +/-of DW) .....my son says it looks like a "strawberry slushi" from 7-Eleven. I'm trying to move away from the "pink / strawberry" color to more of a Mushkin / Asus RoG Red. I sent an inquiry to Mayems with links showing pictures of the RoG Red and Mushkin Red indicating that's where I wanted to go..... with two different reds available from Mayhems was hoping to get direction as to what might best suit. After two exchanges of e-mails, the answer is:

1. "Add more dye"
2. He didn't have Asus Board so didn't know what RoG Red looked like

Now the fact that he said "add more dye" .... since I never had used any dye, I couldn't help wondering if he meant more pastel concentrate or to go out and get some "dye". I'll assume he meant the latter. As for which of the two available red dyes, my inclination is to use the "deep red" rather than "red" .... so was wondering if anyone who has used either might have a suggestion.

Here's a recent pic I sent a OCN member asking about rad clearance which caught a section of acrylic for color reference.....look at background one....one in foreground has camera flash discoloration.


----------



## Radmanhs

just wondering how many bottles i should get of pastel.

cpu, gpu, 2 240mm rads and 1 external 360 rad

OR

cpu,gpu,mobo, 2 480 rads

Thanks


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just wondering how many bottles i should get of pastel.
> 
> cpu, gpu, 2 240mm rads and 1 external 360 rad
> 
> OR
> 
> cpu,gpu,mobo, 2 480 rads
> 
> Thanks


That depends on which rads, and the size of your reservoir.

For instance, 2 Alphacool Monsta rads are going to take a LOT more coolant than 2 Alphacool ST 30s.


----------



## Radmanhs

ok for the first one its 1 240 monsta, 360 monsta and 240 st30 80mm res

the second one its 1 480 monsta and 1 480 xt45 250mm res


----------



## Balanar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It's been reported to last from 1 day to over a year depending on the loop. A few follow up questions:
> 
> What 360 radiator do you have? The biggest issue with radiators is the lanes. They extrude out from the end chambers and leave a spot for the pearls to get stuck in. Single row radiators work the best.
> 
> What reservoir do you have? Bay reservoirs are a big red flag. Cylindrical reservoirs mounted vertically work the best.
> 
> What pump do you have? D5s work but need to be at setting 4 or 5 to work. DDCs also work, but you need to run them very near max.
> 
> What CPU block do you have? EK Supremacy with no injection plate works best. The J3 injection plate also works, if memory serves.


These are the specs for the upcoming build:

Rad: Alphacool UT 60 360mm
CPU Waterblock: EK Supremacy
Res: XSPC Photon 170mm
Pump: Aquacomputer D5

I guess I'm good on the waterblock, pump and rest fronts. Would this rad have problems?


----------



## Balanar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Chris....or anyone else who can speak from direct experience.....
> 
> I have a 1.9 liter mix of Mayems Red Pastel (500ml of concentrate 1400ml +/-of DW) .....my son says it looks like a "strawberry slushi" from 7-Eleven. I'm trying to move away from the "pink / strawberry" color to more of a Mushkin / Asus RoG Red. I sent an inquiry to Mayems with links showing pictures of the RoG Red and Mushkin Red indicating that's where I wanted to go..... with two different reds available from Mayhems was hoping to get direction as to what might best suit. After two exchanges of e-mails, the answer is:
> 
> 1. "Add more dye"
> 2. He didn't have Asus Board so didn't know what RoG Red looked like
> 
> Now the fact that he said "add more dye" .... since I never had used any dye, I couldn't help wondering if he meant more pastel concentrate or to go out and get some "dye". I'll assume he meant the latter. As for which of the two available red dyes, my inclination is to use the "deep red" rather than "red" .... so was wondering if anyone who has used either might have a suggestion.
> 
> Here's a recent pic I sent a OCN member asking about rad clearance which caught a section of acrylic for color reference.....look at background one....one in foreground has camera flash discoloration.


Someone can step in and correct me if I'm wrong but the Mayhems Pastel DOES contain dye. All the products that add colour from Mayhem contain dyes. As for darkening the colour, I would suggest watching this video! You could add small amounts till the colour reaches the one desired.

Hope this helps!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> So I got some Pastel Red concentrate, and I have to say it is not very red. Its salmon pink. My camera had a real hard time catching the color but I got a shot that shows sort of what my eye sees, the bottom hose in this one:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What dye should I add to it to get a little more "red" out of it?


The pastel red is a lighter shade of red. A lot of people do say it looks pink to them. I think the lighter red fits the 'pastel' distinction better, but that is not the color most people are after.

If you want a darker/deeper red you will need some deep red dye. It will take several drops to darken it up. It is sometimes useful to add a touch of blue dye to it as well if you are wanting an even darker red (think blood red)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Has anyone here mixed up a grey/silver color in their build? I like the clean look of distilled in my build right now, but I feel like I might want to experiment a bit in the near future....


There are people that have done grey however I cannot find a pic right now. Mayhem has a video that discusses making your fluid grey. It is a white pastel base with a good bit of green dye and a little red dye per shade of grey (don't recall completely but I think it was 11 green to 1 red)


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Chris....or anyone else who can speak from direct experience.....
> 
> I have a 1.9 liter mix of Mayems Red Pastel (500ml of concentrate 1400ml +/-of DW) .....my son says it looks like a "strawberry slushi" from 7-Eleven. I'm trying to move away from the "pink / strawberry" color to more of a Mushkin / Asus RoG Red. I sent an inquiry to Mayems with links showing pictures of the RoG Red and Mushkin Red indicating that's where I wanted to go..... with two different reds available from Mayhems was hoping to get direction as to what might best suit. After two exchanges of e-mails, the answer is:
> 
> 1. "Add more dye"
> 2. He didn't have Asus Board so didn't know what RoG Red looked like
> 
> Now the fact that he said "add more dye" .... since I never had used any dye, I couldn't help wondering if he meant more pastel concentrate or to go out and get some "dye". I'll assume he meant the latter. As for which of the two available red dyes, my inclination is to use the "deep red" rather than "red" .... so was wondering if anyone who has used either might have a suggestion.
> 
> Here's a recent pic I sent a OCN member asking about rad clearance which caught a section of acrylic for color reference.....look at background one....one in foreground has camera flash discoloration.


i have used 2 dips of Mayems blue, to make it darker







1.2l mayems pastel red premix in my system.

if you want to make darker, try to put 1 drop mayhems blue and see how it goes, just don't put to much







))


----------



## pompss

guys is possible to use quick disconnect fittings with aurora without have any issues???


----------



## hanny562

Hi Guys,

This is my setup with Mayhems Pastel Berry blue.

May I know will concentration of the pastel affect the temperature?



Is that possible to get a deep purple like the carpet beside my rig with Berry blue Pastel?

This is what I get when I add red dye.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balanar*
> 
> These are the specs for the upcoming build:
> 
> Rad: Alphacool UT 60 360mm
> CPU Waterblock: EK Supremacy
> Res: XSPC Photon 170mm
> Pump: Aquacomputer D5
> 
> I guess I'm good on the waterblock, pump and rest fronts. Would this rad have problems?


To my mind, the Alpohacools are the best rad on the market.

-One of the few all copper rads
-7 connection points: (2) Top, (2) Bottom, (2) side, (1) opposite side
-Screw Protectors (so ya can't damage fins connecting fans)
-Wide Range of sizes ....120, 240, 360, 480, 140, 280, 420, 560mm
-Wide Range of thicknesses .... 30, 45, 60, 80 mm
-6 sets of copper screws provided
-5 copper plugs provided
-Suitable for low speed fans
-Tops charts over at martinsliquidlab.org from 1,000 - 2,200 rpm
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/
-Very reasonably priced

-On the downside....

-the finish could be a little better, but I will probably finish and recolor them anyway.
-Like every other rad manufacturer, ya get two sets of screws (usually 5mm and 10mm longer than rad thickness) .... if ya doing push / pull will likely half what ya need as the 2nd set in most instances will be either too long or too short.

Video Review on page hare:
http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p990_Alphacool-NexXxoS-XT45-Full-Copper-420mm.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> guys is possible to use quick disconnect fittings with aurora without have any issues???


Worked great w/ the pastels..... given the size of the nano particles, I can't see it being an issue ..... I'd clean them afterwards of course.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The pastel red is a lighter shade of red. A lot of people do say it looks pink to them. I think the lighter red fits the 'pastel' distinction better, but that is not the color most people are after.
> 
> If you want a darker/deeper red you will need some deep red dye. It will take several drops to darken it up. It is sometimes useful to add a touch of blue dye to it as well if you are wanting an even darker red (think blood red)


Thx..... surprised they don't have a color chart .....

1L Mayems Pastel w/ 1 drop deep red
1L Mayems Pastel w/ 2 drops deep red
1L Mayems Pastel w/ 3 drops deep red
and so on

then other colors of course ....

Would certainly spur sales as peeps would be less afraid to try different things.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balanar*
> 
> Someone can step in and correct me if I'm wrong but the Mayhems Pastel DOES contain dye. All the products that add colour from Mayhem contain dyes. As for darkening the colour, I would suggest watching this video! You could add small amounts till the colour reaches the one desired.
> 
> Hope this helps!


Yes, that's exactly my point..... when he said "add more dye" .... didn't kno if that was that supposed to mean "add more pastel concentrate" .... or add the product that Mayems makes that actually says "dye" on the label. Thanks for the link .... given the video, I wuda thot they'd have had more info to offer. Blood red is a bit dark.

Going more for this:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> i have used 2 dips of Mayems blue, to make it darker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.2l mayems pastel red premix in my system.
> if you want to make darker, try to put 1 drop mayhems blue and see how it goes, just don't put to much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ))


I saw the "darker" as was used in the "blood red" video and it made it darker as in .... I dunno .... best I cud say is "browner" as in at rusty blood red like color..... not really going for that rust look but just a shade darker than "primary red".


----------



## rickyman0319

can you use this tube for dye or pastel?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18784/ex-tub-1773/XSPC_FLX_Premium_Grade_PVC_Tubing_-_12_ID_34OD_-_2_Meter_65_Feet_Retail_Pack_-_UV_Red.html?tl=g30c99s1614


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> guys is possible to use quick disconnect fittings with aurora without have any issues???


I would not. too many places for the particles to build up at
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> can you use this tube for dye or pastel?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18784/ex-tub-1773/XSPC_FLX_Premium_Grade_PVC_Tubing_-_12_ID_34OD_-_2_Meter_65_Feet_Retail_Pack_-_UV_Red.html?tl=g30c99s1614


I have had pastel running in the clear version of that and there has been no issue yet (been running in it for about 5-6mo)

Why use a colored tube and colored fluid? You are replacing the beauty of the pastel with the cheap look of a colored tube?? If you have to have UV, then just add UV pink dye into the red pastel. I would only ever use clear tubing if I am running a colored fluid....just my


----------



## rickyman0319

will XPSC tubing plasticizer few month or not? I meant cloudy.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> can you use this tube for dye or pastel?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18784/ex-tub-1773/XSPC_FLX_Premium_Grade_PVC_Tubing_-_12_ID_34OD_-_2_Meter_65_Feet_Retail_Pack_-_UV_Red.html?tl=g30c99s1614


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Why use a colored tube and colored fluid? You are replacing the beauty of the pastel with the cheap look of a colored tube?? If you have to have UV, then just add UV pink dye into the red pastel. I would only ever use clear tubing if I am running a colored fluid....just my


You could always go with UV Red Acrylic tubing with Deep Red pastel

That would allow for UV red without the staining UV pink, and for the deep red to be visible.

It might also yield a very unique look.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> will XPSC tubing plasticizer few month or not? I meant cloudy.


5-6mo of running 24hr and it still is not clouding in my build that has it in there


----------



## BradleyW

Does the Mayhems X1 Coolant cause any gunk or corrosion issues? Will it perform as well as distilled water? Is it harder for the pump to pocess in comparison with distilled water?

My loop will be using nickle barbs, silver blanking plus and copper rads/blocks, D5 pump, Acrylic Res and Primochill tubing.
Thank you.


----------



## Mayhem

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypY2AblXzPA

contains mayhems


----------



## Interstate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> will XPSC tubing plasticizer few month or not? I meant cloudy.


Check out this pic. Xspc clear tubing. 4months.


----------



## Radmanhs

is 3 bottles of concentrate enough for 1 360 monsta, 1 240 monsta, 1 240 st30, 80mm res and 2 waterblocks

also 3 bottles for monsta 480, xt45 480, 3 waterblocks, and 250mm res


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> will XPSC tubing plasticizer few month or not? I meant cloudy.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Interstate*
> 
> Check out this pic. Xspc clear tubing. 4months.


Is this XSPC tubing that come with their watercooling kit or HighFlex tube?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Does the Mayhems X1 Coolant cause any gunk or corrosion issues? Will it perform as well as distilled water? Is it harder for the pump to pocess in comparison with distilled water?
> 
> My loop will be using nickle barbs, silver blanking plus and copper rads/blocks, D5 pump, Acrylic Res and Primochill tubing.
> Thank you.


You'll not have any such issues with the Mayhems coolant, as long as you're going to be using the latest Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing.
(The older Primochill Pro LRT had plasticizer issues.)

No problem for the D5 pump to run the coolant, compared to distilled. The temp. difference is very minor, perhaps a degree or two at most.

Congrats on your future loop!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> You'll not have any such issues with the Mayhems coolant, as long as you're going to be using the latest Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing.
> (The older Primochill Pro LRT had plasticizer issues.)
> 
> No problem for the D5 pump to run the coolant, compared to distilled. The temp. difference is very minor, perhaps a degree or two at most.
> 
> Congrats on your future loop!


X1 increasing your loop by a degree celcius? That's exaggerated a bit.

Check out this review: http://www.overclockerstech.com/mayhems-pastel-x1-roundup/all/1/

Thermal probes actually measured it lower than ultrapure H20, though that's simply margin for error though. Maybe if you stacked a 1000watt + heat load on their you'd notice upwards of a degree, but even then I don't know.

If you're too lazy to read through that review, like I was the first time I saw it, here's the charts.


Spoiler: Graphs and stuff



Liquid Temps:


CPU Temps:


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> is 3 bottles of concentrate enough for 1 360 monsta, 1 240 monsta, 1 240 st30, 80mm res and 2 waterblocks
> 
> also 3 bottles for monsta 480, xt45 480, 3 waterblocks, and 250mm res


Of which concentrate?

If pastel, probably.

If X1, definitely.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> is 3 bottles of concentrate enough for 1 360 monsta, 1 240 monsta, 1 240 st30, 80mm res and 2 waterblocks
> 
> also 3 bottles for monsta 480, xt45 480, 3 waterblocks, and 250mm res
> 
> 
> 
> Of which concentrate?
> 
> If pastel, probably.
> 
> If X1, definitely.
Click to expand...

i meant pastel, but what do you mean my probably and defiantly? they create the same amount of product, right?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> i meant pastel, but what do you mean my probably and defiantly? they create the same amount of product, right?


Pastel is one bottle of concentrate to 750ml of water, so that's 1 liter per bottle.

X1 is 125ml to each liter of water, and comes in 250ml bottles, so it makes 2.25 liters per bottle.

3 liters of coolant is a bit under a gallon so you should be good with three bottles of concentrate.


----------



## Teknik

I thought I'd throw up a pic of my build in progress, its Mayhems blue berry


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> is 3 bottles of concentrate enough for 1 360 monsta, 1 240 monsta, 1 240 st30, 80mm res and 2 waterblocks
> 
> also 3 bottles for monsta 480, xt45 480, 3 waterblocks, and 250mm res


What concentrate ?

Pastel is 250 per 1000 ml (1:3 ratio 25% solution))
X1 is 250 per 2000ml (1:7 ration 12.5% solution)

Simplest way to know for sure is, since ya gonna flush the system at least once with DW anyway, is use a measuring cup w/ ml gradations to fill 1L at a time.....write down how mal L and the amount ya used for the partial cup.

Here's the X1 link

http://mayhems.co.uk/front/x1.html#.UqXfFuKQPJE
Quote:


> 250 ml Concentrate. Enough to make 2 Ltrs of coolant.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Chris....or anyone else who can speak from direct experience.....
> 
> I have a 1.9 liter mix of Mayems Red Pastel (500ml of concentrate 1400ml +/-of DW) .....my son says it looks like a "strawberry slushi" from 7-Eleven. I'm trying to move away from the "pink / strawberry" color to more of a Mushkin / Asus RoG Red. I sent an inquiry to Mayems with links showing pictures of the RoG Red and Mushkin Red indicating that's where I wanted to go..... with two different reds available from Mayhems was hoping to get direction as to what might best suit. After two exchanges of e-mails, the answer is:
> 
> 1. "Add more dye"
> 2. He didn't have Asus Board so didn't know what RoG Red looked like
> 
> Now the fact that he said "add more dye" .... since I never had used any dye, I couldn't help wondering if he meant more pastel concentrate or to go out and get some "dye". I'll assume he meant the latter. As for which of the two available red dyes, my inclination is to use the "deep red" rather than "red" .... so was wondering if anyone who has used either might have a suggestion.
> 
> Here's a recent pic I sent a OCN member asking about rad clearance which caught a section of acrylic for color reference.....look at background one....one in foreground has camera flash discoloration.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have used 2 dips of Mayems blue, to make it darker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.2l mayems pastel red premix in my system.
> 
> if you want to make darker, try to put 1 drop mayhems blue and see how it goes, just don't put to much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ))
Click to expand...

Everytime you put up this picture, it makes me cringe looking at the computer sitting on the edge...


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teknik*
> 
> I thought I'd throw up a pic of my build in progress, its Mayhems blue berry


That's purdy!


----------



## Belial

anyone got pics of like a pastel dark blue? I love the way it looks like such a solid color, but haven't seen a solid dark blue, only blueberry/light blue.

I need to get 'dark blue' for my H60 2013 and H110 Tubing Replacement (also putting a res on the h110). Someone recommended I go with mayhem dye instead of primochill blue tubing for the desired effect.


----------



## shish0000

Hi guys,
Making my first foray in to the world of water cooling with this:http://www.xs-pc.com/watercooling-kits/raystorm-d5-photon-ax240-watercooling-kit

I've got an orange and black theme going on and really like the look of the pastel gigabyte orange. Will this be ok with the kit? I know there's some issues with tubing. From reading I think it should be ok. Also as long as I follow instructions will it be ok for a n00b or should I just get orange tubing? Thanks


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shish0000*
> 
> Hi guys,
> Making my first foray in to the world of water cooling with this:http://www.xs-pc.com/watercooling-kits/raystorm-d5-photon-ax240-watercooling-kit
> 
> I've got an orange and black theme going on and really like the look of the pastel gigabyte orange. Will this be ok with the kit? I know there's some issues with tubing. From reading I think it should be ok. Also as long as I follow instructions will it be ok for a n00b or should I just get orange tubing? Thanks


I couldn't find what kind of tubing is sold with this kit. To be safe I would swap out the tubing for some Primochill *Advanced* LRT (highly recommended on OCN and in this thread) and you will be good to go. Also, there should be no issues with Mayhems Pastel and this HW config.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> anyone got pics of like a pastel dark blue? I love the way it looks like such a solid color, but haven't seen a solid dark blue, only blueberry/light blue.
> 
> I need to get 'dark blue' for my H60 2013 and H110 Tubing Replacement (also putting a res on the h110). Someone recommended I go with mayhem dye instead of primochill blue tubing for the desired effect.


Also, my system is mixing metals with CU + ALU (all the closed loops are like this). I need anti-corrossive, and was recommended Swiftech hydrx pm2 which is light blue and uses something other than a glycol so i'm a bit unsure of it. If you guys can help me with that too, I'd appreciate it.

I'm just looking for dark, solid blue, and anti-corrossion as necessaey. I was thinking of going with primochill's dark blue tubing, but if pastel dark blue looks better i'm all for it, and ive got the h110 with a res too.

I dont really care about UV. I am not using uv lights, only white and blue leds.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Also, my system is mixing metals with CU + ALU (all the closed loops are like this). I need anti-corrossive, and was recommended Swiftech hydrx pm2 which is light blue and uses something other than a glycol so i'm a bit unsure of it. If you guys can help me with that too, I'd appreciate it.
> 
> I'm just looking for dark, solid blue, and anti-corrossion as necessaey. I was thinking of going with primochill's dark blue tubing, but if pastel dark blue looks better i'm all for it, and ive got the h110 with a res too.
> 
> I dont really care about UV. I am not using uv lights, only white and blue leds.


Pastel and x1 both have anti corosion inhibitors in them so it should be ok. Xt-1 is glycol based.

If you want a dark blue pastel you'll need to get pastel white or blueberry blue and some blue dye and drop some dye in there to get the shade you want. You may need just a touch of red dye too.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teknik*
> 
> I thought I'd throw up a pic of my build in progress, its Mayhems blue berry


How did you get the tubing to bend like that so perfectly?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> How did you get the tubing to bend like that so perfectly?


He used hard acrylic tube and did some good consistent bends


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> He used hard acrylic tube and did some good consistent bends


Looks very good. I like it. I don't understand what's going on with the GPU's inlet's and outlet's?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Looks very good. I like it. I don't understand what's going on with the GPU's inlet's and outlet's?


What do you mean?

He has them in parallel config so the water flow splits and runs over each card at the same time versus one after the other.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What do you mean?
> 
> He has them in parallel config so the water flow splits and runs over each card at the same time versus one after the other.


I was not aware that this could be done. How much does this reduce temps?


----------



## Belial

Wow that solid tubing looks great, is it possible to do that with barb fittings? I'd love to use that on my h60 2013 and h110 closed loops w/replaced tubing + res, but it has to be possible with barbs as the block and rad have permanent barbs (i mean if i can replace the barbs I'm all ears).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Also, my system is mixing metals with CU + ALU (all the closed loops are like this). I need anti-corrossive, and was recommended Swiftech hydrx pm2 which is light blue and uses something other than a glycol so i'm a bit unsure of it. If you guys can help me with that too, I'd appreciate it.
> 
> I'm just looking for dark, solid blue, and anti-corrossion as necessaey. I was thinking of going with primochill's dark blue tubing, but if pastel dark blue looks better i'm all for it, and ive got the h110 with a res too.
> 
> I dont really care about UV. I am not using uv lights, only white and blue leds.
> 
> 
> 
> Pastel and x1 both have anti corosion inhibitors in them so it should be ok. Xt-1 is glycol based.
> 
> If you want a dark blue pastel you'll need to get pastel white or blueberry blue and some blue dye and drop some dye in there to get the shade you want. You may need just a touch of red dye too.
Click to expand...

Okay so... if I use pastel blueberry (or white), I'll have anti-corrossion for CU+ALU covered.. and then just add blue dye. And then use clear tubing instead of blue tubing (opinions on what would look better would be appreciated). Any pics of pastel dark blue in action?


----------



## Teknik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Wow that solid tubing looks great, is it possible to do that with barb fittings? I'd love to use that on my h60 2013 and h110 closed loops w/replaced tubing + res, but it has to be possible with barbs as the block and rad have permanent barbs (i mean if i can replace the barbs I'm all ears).


I used primo chill tubing but you have to have compression fittings designed for use with solid tubing


----------



## Belial

Ah lame. Is there a way to perhaps solidify pvc tubing or something? Like stick a rod inside or outside, or glue it stiff?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I was not aware that this could be done. How much does this reduce temps?


It usually doesn't. When you run one after another you usually get one card at say 40 and the next at say 43. With parallel you'll probably see both at 44, since it is reduced flow over each.

However, it is less restriction in your loop and looks a lot better. It can also help support the heavier cards and keep them from sagging.

Overall just go with what works/looks best as the temp diff is usually minimal with a decent pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Wow that solid tubing looks great, is it possible to do that with barb fittings? I'd love to use that on my h60 2013 and h110 closed loops w/replaced tubing + res, but it has to be possible with barbs as the block and rad have permanent barbs (i mean if i can replace the barbs I'm all ears).
> Okay so... if I use pastel blueberry (or white), I'll have anti-corrossion for CU+ALU covered.. and then just add blue dye. And then use clear tubing instead of blue tubing (opinions on what would look better would be appreciated). Any pics of pastel dark blue in action?


The hard tube has to use the fittings designed for hard tubing. You hack saw the lengths and heart the acrylic up until it is durable enough to bend. When it is at the desired angle you cool it and it holds form. There is a great thread that goes over all of it in detail.

As far as a dark blue, I don't have any pics off hand. I personally would get the white and add the bl ue dye a dtop or two at a time until ut gets to the desired shade.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Would adding mayhems dye to my primochill intensified ice coolant be a complete disaster?


----------



## Ragsters

Anyone have any comments on strictly using biocide extreme and distilled water?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Ah lame. Is there a way to perhaps solidify pvc tubing or something? Like stick a rod inside or outside, or glue it stiff?


You mean like pvc plumbing method? I wouldn't recommend it. What a pain that would be on down the road.


----------



## Belial

Hm, okay. That's kinda lame, but I can make bendable tubing look good too. I really want to win motm. A lot of solid tubing entries win those. My h60 GPU tubes will just be straight down into a full length psu shroud so it'll be straight, but my h110 cpu cooler loop will be fully visible.



See, the h110, i'll be putting the res in between the block and rad.
Quote:


> As far as a dark blue, I don't have any pics off hand. I personally would get the white and add the bl ue dye a dtop or two at a time until ut gets to the desired shade.


Well, it's either that, or go for primochill dark blue tubing. I want what looks better, but these solid fluid colors look amazing.

I have 2 loops, one has a res and one is just the tubing. Now the h60 I could just use blue tubing, but the h110 really needs colored fluid due to the res. I mean is this mayhem pastel good to run on it's own vs an alternative?

Basically, I need an anti-corrossive due to the mixed metals, and then dark blue color. Just want the best way to do that.


----------



## Teknik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I was not aware that this could be done. How much does this reduce temps?


not much, if at all. It depends on the rest of your setup, I did it pretty much just for looks


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Would adding mayhems dye to my primochill intensified ice coolant be a complete disaster?


It should be fine, as long as you are indeed using dye and not a concentrate. The dyes are just that, dyes. No anticorrosives, no biocides, no B.S. that would cause conflicts. You might notice UV effects of any dye fade rather fast. I didn't have very good luck with Clear/UV blue on any of the different Primochill premixes, but I'm not going to go on a rant about the bad luck I've had with them.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Looks very good. I like it. I don't understand what's going on with the GPU's inlet's and outlet's?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I was not aware that this could be done. How much does this reduce temps?


As flow rate increases so does the restriction a block creates. As flow rate decreases, so does the amount of restriction a block creates. What he's doing is running them in parallel. Basically, it just runs the coolant in a cross flow design. Since the entrances path of least resistance is the top card, and the exists path of least resistance is the bottom card, you will have equal flow through all blocks assuming they're all the same waterblock, or at least you should. Obstruction might cause that to change, as it would with any coolant path.

By splitting the coolant into multiple paths, you reduce the flow rate of the coolant flowing through that. By reducing the flow rate, as previously mentioned, you will reduce the amount or restriction that block creates. Most VGA waterblock manufactures plan for this to happen, and as such design their cards to be low flow optimized, so temps on the cards typically aren't effected that much by the reduced flow.

It's typically done when using 3 or more video cards so you don't have a ridiculous pressure drop, but people seem to like it's aesthetics.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Hm, okay. That's kinda lame, but I can make bendable tubing look good too. I really want to win motm. A lot of solid tubing entries win those. My h60 GPU tubes will just be straight down into a full length psu shroud so it'll be straight, but my h110 cpu cooler loop will be fully visible.
> 
> 
> 
> See, the h110, i'll be putting the res in between the block and rad.
> Well, it's either that, or go for primochill dark blue tubing. I want what looks better, but these solid fluid colors look amazing.
> 
> I have 2 loops, one has a res and one is just the tubing. Now the h60 I could just use blue tubing, but the h110 really needs colored fluid due to the res. I mean is this mayhem pastel good to run on it's own vs an alternative?
> 
> Basically, I need an anti-corrossive due to the mixed metals, and then dark blue color. Just want the best way to do that.


If you have aluminum in your loop I'd definitely use a glycol based coolant, Mayhems XT-1 in this case.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17724/ex-liq-303/Mayhems_XT-1_Glycol_Base_Coolant_Concentrate_-_150mL_-_UV_Blue.html

You can get XT-1 pretty darn dark if you're using blue. Probably a couple shades darker than this:


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I was not aware that this could be done. How much does this reduce temps?


It's primarily done for two reasons....

1. If ya do in series, the 2nd card receives hotter water going in and therefore, ya cards are not subject to equal thermal loads.

2. While GFX cards produce 2 times or more heat then CPUs, their bigger coolers allow them to run at much lower temps. With ya CPU higher in temps, it will benefit from a bit more flow..... which increases head loss thru the loop. In parallel, the GFX cards receive half the flow that the CPU does and therefore the loss thru the GPU block is drastically reduced.....about 28% of what it would be if in series...... again, JUST the part that is in parallel is so affected.

Here's the same concept ... but w/o a block.....and yes the flow spinners do move exactly in synch and temp readings on the cards are identical


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> *snip*


Now THAT is a sexy build.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It should be fine, as long as you are indeed using dye and not a concentrate. The dyes are just that, dyes. No anticorrosives, no biocides, no B.S. that would cause conflicts. You might notice UV effects of any dye fade rather fast. I didn't have very good luck with Clear/UV blue on any of the different Primochill premixes, but I'm not going to go on a rant about the bad luck I've had with them.


long time







sup man

im debating now whether to get a primochill premix UV, or just dump it and get a mayhems concentrate and add deionized water/distilled water?

always hear great things about mayhem
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20687/ex-liq-364/Mayhems_X1_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_Limited_Edition_UV_Emerald_Green_.html?tl=g30c337s1809#blank so this small 250ml bottle would be added with distilled water for 2 liters of premix to create the "coolant" from the concentrate?

a while back I heard something about mayhems pastel having issues with primochill tubing and now im searching to re-read what the topic covered


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> long time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sup man
> 
> im debating now whether to get a primochill premix UV, or just dump it and get a mayhems concentrate and add deionized water/distilled water?
> 
> always hear great things about mayhem
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20687/ex-liq-364/Mayhems_X1_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_Limited_Edition_UV_Emerald_Green_.html?tl=g30c337s1809#blank so this small 250ml bottle would be added with distilled water for 2 liters of premix to create the "coolant" from the concentrate?


Yup, one X1 concentrate will be enough to mix with 2 liters of water. The UV Primochill was what I had, and it faded so I dumped some Mayhems Clear/UV Blue and it faded out too. Must have been something in the premix, because my Mayhems clear/uv blue lasted at least 5 times longer in my X1 before fading, and a good 10x longer before the UV effect completely went away. I had boughten a bulk discount of 6 liters of Primochill base intensified Clear/UV blue, which kinda sucked because I have 4 of them just chilling in the garage because I refuse to use that crap again.

I flushed and went with Mayhems X1 with dye, and it didn't fade at all for a good six months, which was 5 months more than my primochill lasted.

Mayhems UV Pastel White is basically white, that turns blue under UV. That would probably last longer, but I liked the clear look.

X1 would probably be your best bet, but it would be advisable to flush, so you might want to wait till your next routine maintenance to refill it.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Yup, one X1 concentrate will be enough to mix with 2 liters of water. The UV Primochill was what I had, and it faded so I dumped some Mayhems Clear/UV Blue and it faded out too. Must have been something in the premix, because my Mayhems clear/uv blue lasted at least 5 times longer in my X1 before fading, and a good 10x longer before the UV effect completely went away. I had boughten a bulk discount of 6 liters of Primochill base intensified Clear/UV blue, which kinda sucked because I have 4 of them just chilling in the garage because I refuse to use that crap again.
> 
> I flushed and went with Mayhems X1 with dye, and it didn't fade at all for a good six months, which was 5 months more than my primochill lasted.
> 
> Mayhems UV Pastel White is basically white, that turns blue under UV. That would probably last longer, but I liked the clear look.
> 
> X1 would probably be your best bet, but it would be advisable to flush, so you might want to wait till your next routine maintenance to refill it.


im looking at it now, seems performance pc's has only certain parts I need and frozencpu has others, I don't want to pay shipping costs at two sites and I don't want to sacrifice a certain product from one









when you say flush you mean after draining my loop continuously flush it with distilled water to get old coolant out?
my problem is this loop is such a pain to flush I don't know if could do without disassembly the whole computer, would adding fresh water and running the loop again not just leave the same primochill coolant residues in there?

if I have to take apart everything might be a deal breaker


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> im looking at it now, seems performance pc's has only certain parts I need and frozencpu has others, I don't want to pay shipping costs at two sites and I don't want to sacrifice a certain product from one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when you say flush you mean after draining my loop continuously flush it with distilled water to get old coolant out?
> my problem is this loop is such a pain to flush I don't know if could do without disassembly the whole computer, would adding fresh water and running the loop again not just leave the same primochill coolant residues in there?
> 
> if I have to take apart everything might be a deal breaker


XD Like I said, it might be in your best interest to wait for your next routine maintenance to swap out coolants. It might also be advisable to install a drain port and fill port during your next routine maintenance.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Ah lame. Is there a way to perhaps solidify pvc tubing or something? Like stick a rod inside or outside, or glue it stiff?


No not really. The hard acrylic isn't so bad but you'd definitely have to get rid of your cooler and go full custom...I'd recommend going full custom anyway tho









Better temps, more fun to put in, only downside is more expensive....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Would adding mayhems dye to my primochill intensified ice coolant be a complete disaster?


Nah, youre good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Anyone have any comments on strictly using biocide extreme and distilled water?


That is the intention of it. It is supposed to be used in systems with just distiller water and dye/no dye. You will only need a couple drops for the whole loop.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That is the intention of it. It is supposed to be used in systems with just distiller water and dye/no dye. You will only need a couple drops for the whole loop.


I'm aware of its purpose. I was just wondering if anyone has any personal experience using said product over something like PT Nuke or even silver.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I'm aware of its purpose. I was just wondering if anyone has any personal experience using said product over something like PT Nuke or even silver.


I'd use it over silver coil so I can use nickel blocks personally.

Both Biocides Extreme and PT Nuke are Copper Sulphate based, so expect similar results between the two. The Biocides Extreme also usually comes with a pH test kit I think


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'd use it over silver coil so I can use nickel blocks personally.
> 
> Both Biocides Extreme and PT Nuke are Copper Sulphate based, so expect similar results between the two. The Biocides Extreme also usually comes with a pH test kit I think


Here is a stupid question. I will hopefully be filling my first loop for the first time this weekend. Do I put the biocide in a bowl with distilled water and mix it? Can I just add drops in the reservoir?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Here is a stupid question. I will hopefully be filling my first loop for the first time this weekend. Do I put the biocide in a bowl with distilled water and mix it? Can I just add drops in the reservoir?


You can do it either way. I'm lazy, so I'd prly just put in my res after my loop is filled and leak tested.


----------



## Redefined

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*


That, right there, is perfection. I wouldn't change a thing.


----------



## ikem

finally got to use the Mayhems package I won like a year ago...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> long time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sup man
> 
> im debating now whether to get a primochill premix UV, or just dump it and get a mayhems concentrate and add deionized water/distilled water?
> 
> always hear great things about mayhem
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20687/ex-liq-364/Mayhems_X1_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_Limited_Edition_UV_Emerald_Green_.html?tl=g30c337s1809#blank so this small 250ml bottle would be added with distilled water for 2 liters of premix to create the "coolant" from the concentrate?
> 
> a while back I heard something about mayhems pastel having issues with primochill tubing and now im searching to re-read what the topic covered


If you mix it yaself I wouldn't call it a "pre-mix" (which is what ya call it when they mix it) but other than that you got the jst of it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Now THAT is a sexy build.


I might be more agreeable once I get the sleeving done







.... accepting volunteers to help !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redefined*
> 
> That, right there, is perfection. I wouldn't change a thing.


My wife calls it OCD ..... (I told her OCN stands for *O*bsessive *C*ompulsive *N*erds) the process of taking a very careful measurement with a caliper, cutting a tube, reaming and chamfering a tube, installing the tube ..... and then "rinse and repeat" cupla times ..... filling the loop, draining the loop and then recutting a cupla tubes because when ya 1st did it, you matched the line of the GFX cards which tend to "hang" ar the right end .... so then building supports for the cards and redoing the tubes to match the new "line".

On the plus side, I have cut little tips off enough tubes now, I might have a second career as a Mohel.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Yup, one X1 concentrate will be enough to mix with 2 liters of water. .


Ya mix X1 w/ 1.75 liters of water to end up with 2 liters.
Quote:


> Mayhems X1 is a "Performance" based 250ml Concentrate Coolant, There is enough in the bottle to make 2 Ltrs of Mayhems X1.


If ya mixed 250ml w/ 2 liters, ya wud be left with 2.25 liters which would be a bit "thin" resulting in a 1:8 ratio (11.1%) instead of 1:7 (12.5%)


----------



## stickg1

I used biocide extreme and distilled water for a few weeks. No issues but I reckon it wasn't in the system long enough to make any observations on effectiveness.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> XD Like I said, it might be in your best interest to wait for your next routine maintenance to swap out coolants. It might also be advisable to install a drain port and fill port during your next routine maintenance.


yeah, I installed a drain port with a valve under my res in my loop and it doesn't work as it should.
its basically lowest point of gravity and it only drains the reservoir.
problem is I don't think I would unplug 16 wired fans and take out two radiators, a cpu block, a gpu block for maintenance
the most I would do is drain system and have water pump pull 1 gallon of water out of a bottle to another!
I don't know how some people do it, but draining my loop is a royal PITA

*would just running a gallon of water through my current loop after draining be considered enough of a flush to add in mayhems concentrate+water?*


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> yeah, I installed a drain port with a valve under my res in my loop and it doesn't work as it should.
> its basically lowest point of gravity and it only drains the reservoir.
> problem is I don't think I would unplug 16 wired fans and take out two radiators, a cpu block, a gpu block for maintenance
> the most I would do is drain system and have water pump pull 1 gallon of water out of a bottle to another!
> I don't know how some people do it, but draining my loop is a royal PITA
> 
> *would just running a gallon of water through my current loop after draining be considered enough of a flush to add in mayhems concentrate+water?*


1. Ya need to open a high port to let air in to have ya drain work like ya want.....say the top port on ya top rad.

2. I'd grab an aquarium gravel filter / water bed filler setup to flush ya loop from the sink.

http://www.petmountain.com/show_product/11442-524573/

Ignore the fat tube and just look at the rest....the blue thingie in the middle attaches to ya faucet .... you'll need some fittings to neck it down to get it on ya G1/4 connection somewhere up high in the loop..... then connect ya drain port tube to the sink. Run water thru the loop ... alternating hot and cold.....

BTW, the bottom part of the blue thingie if put in the down position will suck water thru the tube attached above it .... in the up position it will fill the tube.

Then I'd close ya drain and fill the loop with some DW and let it sit for an hour .... or maybe use it with a product like this,

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17967/ex-liq-306/Primochill_Sys_Prep_Cooling_Loop_Pre-Treatment_Cleaner_-_15mL.html

then after sitting for an hour running the pump for an hour....and then a final flush after the sysprep flush with distilled water, left overnight and drained.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

thanks jack but I don't think that is possible








that's a $40 item to drain a loop which I can manually by tipping the case many times ( its just a pain )

also, that sysprep has been known to do more harm than good

I appreciate you trying to help me out though







I might just run a gallon of distilled through the loop and put in the mayhems concentrate


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> thanks jack but I don't think that is possible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's a $40 item to drain a loop which I can manually by tipping the case many times ( its just a pain )
> 
> I appreciate you trying to help me out though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might just run a gallon of distilled through the loop and put in the mayhems concentrate


1. Not at all needed to drain a loop .... only needed for flushing. Only need to flush if ya put something in ya later decide was a mistake, ya worried about plasticizer buildup or sediment and ya wanna flush it out or switch to a different mix, removing all traces of old..

2. And you already have the tubing .... the sink part thingamajiggey that ya need runs about $6.

3. Tipping the case back and forth is not going to put 5 gpm of alternating hot and cold water thru ya case ..... to get the equivalent flush to 1 minute of that using "tipping" will require about 20 fills and drains.....and that's only for soluble stuff....any plasticizer, paint flakes, sediment, etc will not be dislodged by simply filling and draining .... that requires high volume moving at a good velocity.

I picked the 1st link I hit with a picture of the blue thingey....wasn't about to invest the time in finding a link for the replacement part or find ya the cheapest source









I have a fish tank and a waterbed in the house so had 2 before I built my loop......didn't cost me $40 tho....more like $16 for the whole shebang
Quote:


> also, that sysprep has been known to do more harm than good


By who ? I have never needed to use but every time I have seen it mentioned here it as been with positive results. Would be very interested in reading about any conflicting reports.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

yeah you're right. it's just the idea of putting all that tap water in the loop hurts

I feel i'd need twice as much distilled water to flush out all the microscopic traces of all the "stuff" in tap water left behind


----------



## pompss

Will post a video soon with my red aurora coolant in UV effect


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Hm, okay. That's kinda lame, but I can make bendable tubing look good too. I really want to win motm. A lot of solid tubing entries win those. My h60 GPU tubes will just be straight down into a full length psu shroud so it'll be straight, but my h110 cpu cooler loop will be fully visible.
> 
> 
> 
> See, the h110, i'll be putting the res in between the block and rad.
> Well, it's either that, or go for primochill dark blue tubing. I want what looks better, but these solid fluid colors look amazing.
> 
> I have 2 loops, one has a res and one is just the tubing. Now the h60 I could just use blue tubing, but the h110 really needs colored fluid due to the res. I mean is this mayhem pastel good to run on it's own vs an alternative?
> 
> Basically, I need an anti-corrossive due to the mixed metals, and then dark blue color. Just want the best way to do that.
> 
> 
> 
> If you have aluminum in your loop I'd definitely use a glycol based coolant, Mayhems XT-1 in this case.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17724/ex-liq-303/Mayhems_XT-1_Glycol_Base_Coolant_Concentrate_-_150mL_-_UV_Blue.html
> 
> You can get XT-1 pretty darn dark if you're using blue. Probably a couple shades darker than this:
Click to expand...

First off, how much liquid is contained in an H60 2013(coolit eco 3) and H110 (280mm asetek)? I have no idea how much fluid I need to buy. And Im assuming i Just use distilled water from like cvs or the grocery store, but i have no idea if i need half a bottle or 5 bottles.

So what's going on in this picture? Is this only XT-1, or is that blue tubing? Is there blue dye?

The xt-1 seems to get pretty dark blue on it's own, I imagine I have to use the whole bottle though for proper anti-corrossion protection. It's cool that it uses ethylene glycol, though not sure what is better... a lot of peopple recommend to me anti-freeze but no clue which to use.

anyways okay, but i still need pastel for a _solid_ dark blue. So what, should i use pastel blueberry + xt-1 concentrate?
Quote:


> No not really. The hard acrylic isn't so bad but you'd definitely have to get rid of your cooler and go full custom...I'd recommend going full custom anyway tho wink.gif
> 
> Better temps, more fun to put in, only downside is more expensive....


It's _way_ more expensive. H110($90) + H60 ($30) res ($30) + tubing/fittings x.5 ($20) = 170.

Custom loop of CPU Block (50) + GPU Block (50) + res (30) + tube/acc (40) + Pump (30) + 280mmrad (70) = $270+. Huge difference in price.

I'm not doing this mod for performance though, it's for aesthetics and for doing something different in a very DIY, budget manner. I'm gunning it to win MOTM, and I'm sorry but I find all the custom loop winners extremely dry and boring. ermahgawd, what a surprise, a guy did absolutely zero modding and won again because he spent $500 on crazy stock compression fittings and a big rad. So original.

There are some MOTM winners using custom loops who've done great builds, but it's never because of their custom loop (a guy did a custom loop build where it was wall mounted, great build, another guy did one using lots of acryilc tubing, acrylic covers, acrylic luminscent panels). And that's what I'm going for. You can look up more about what I'm trying to do here:
Belial's Perfect Z87 Build
Adding Reservoir Changing Tubing of H110 H60 2013

If you follow my build log you'll see I am doing things far, far cooler than water cooling.


----------



## Belial

Also do I need to worry about the acrlyic swiftech micro rev2 cracking or the glue that holds it together coming apart if I use glycols?


----------



## M3TAl

Pretty sure all you need is Pastel (either the white or blueberry) and some dye. Like someone said earlier some blue dye and possibly red as well, might help darken it. Pastel has all the anti-corrosive and anti-algae stuff already in it. You don't need to add anything to it other than dye for your color of choice.

One bottle of Pastel mix (250 ml pastel and add 750 ml water) makes 1 L of coolant. Whether or not the loop will need more than 1 L depends on the amount of rads, size of reservoir, etc.

Can't wait to build my first custom loop after Xmas! Got all the parts just sitting around... Two bottles of Pastel Ice White ready to go







. Everyone's going to hate my build due to the external rad but that's fine with me. I really wanted that super overkill on rad area for low fan speeds and possible future block additions.

I've never heard of glycols causing problems with acrylic. Thought it was only Isopropyl alcohol that caused that.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Hm, okay. That's kinda lame, but I can make bendable tubing look good too. I really want to win motm. A lot of solid tubing entries win those. My h60 GPU tubes will just be straight down into a full length psu shroud so it'll be straight, but my h110 cpu cooler loop will be fully visible.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See, the h110, i'll be putting the res in between the block and rad.
> Well, it's either that, or go for primochill dark blue tubing. I want what looks better, but these solid fluid colors look amazing.
> 
> I have 2 loops, one has a res and one is just the tubing. Now the h60 I could just use blue tubing, but the h110 really needs colored fluid due to the res. I mean is this mayhem pastel good to run on it's own vs an alternative?
> 
> Basically, I need an anti-corrossive due to the mixed metals, and then dark blue color. Just want the best way to do that.
> 
> 
> 
> If you have aluminum in your loop I'd definitely use a glycol based coolant, Mayhems XT-1 in this case.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17724/ex-liq-303/Mayhems_XT-1_Glycol_Base_Coolant_Concentrate_-_150mL_-_UV_Blue.html
> 
> You can get XT-1 pretty darn dark if you're using blue. Probably a couple shades darker than this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *First off, how much liquid is contained in an H60 2013(coolit eco 3) and H110 (280mm asetek)? I have no idea how much fluid I need to buy. And Im assuming i Just use distilled water from like cvs or the grocery store, but i have no idea if i need half a bottle or 5 bottles.
> *
> So what's going on in this picture? Is this only XT-1, or is that blue tubing? Is there blue dye?
> 
> The xt-1 seems to get pretty dark blue on it's own, I imagine I have to use the whole bottle though for proper anti-corrossion protection. It's cool that it uses ethylene glycol, though not sure what is better... a lot of peopple recommend to me anti-freeze but no clue which to use.
> 
> anyways okay, but i still need pastel for a _solid_ dark blue. So what, should i use pastel blueberry + xt-1 concentrate?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> No not really. The hard acrylic isn't so bad but you'd definitely have to get rid of your cooler and go full custom...I'd recommend going full custom anyway tho wink.gif
> 
> Better temps, more fun to put in, only downside is more expensive....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's _way_ more expensive. H110($90) + H60 ($30) res ($30) + tubing/fittings x.5 ($20) = 170.
> 
> Custom loop of CPU Block (50) + GPU Block (50) + res (30) + tube/acc (40) + Pump (30) + 280mmrad (70) = $270+. Huge difference in price.
> 
> *I'm not doing this mod for performance though, it's for aesthetics* and for doing something different in a very DIY, budget manner. I'm gunning it to win MOTM, and I'm sorry but I find all the custom loop winners extremely dry and boring. ermahgawd, what a surprise, a guy did absolutely zero modding and won again because he spent $500 on crazy stock compression fittings and a big rad. So original.
> 
> There are some MOTM winners using custom loops who've done great builds, but it's never because of their custom loop (a guy did a custom loop build where it was wall mounted, great build, another guy did one using lots of acryilc tubing, acrylic covers, acrylic luminscent panels). And that's what I'm going for. You can look up more about what I'm trying to do here:
> Belial's Perfect Z87 Build
> Adding Reservoir Changing Tubing of H110 H60 2013
> 
> If you follow my build log you'll see I am doing things far, far cooler than water cooling.
Click to expand...

Buy 1 bottle, usually comes in a gallon size, of distilled at the local supermarket or drug store and you'll have way more than enough for the AIO's.

I'm still not sure how it is that you can put aesthetics an the same phrase as AIO cooler when talking about water cooling . . . .

There's just no such thing as alchemy, you can't turn low budget mix 'n match into a show winner









Darlene


----------



## Belial

ehh i dont think the pastel is anti-corrossive, I think it's just general anti-corrosive. Like 'oh your loop has copper and bronze, this anti-corrosive will help make it last longer!', not like cu + alu stuff.

im just unsure of any non-glycol based anti-corrosive. This is for closed loops, so I need something that can stay sealed for a looong time. I mean it's not a big deal if a bit of muckikng occurs, these are cheap units and ultimately what comes on can come off, the h110 will have a res too after all, but i'm just not knowledgeable enough to be risky here.

I mean if we're certain pastel is fine, I'll get it, otherwise I'm very unsure. Right now I'm leaning towards primochill advanced blue tubing + xt-1.
Quote:


> I've never heard of glycols causing problems with acrylic. Thought it was only Isopropyl alcohol that caused that.


yea, very mixed reports online. I've heard a few say it will dissolve glues that hold acrylic together.
Quote:


> I'm still not sure how it is that you can put aesthetics an the same phrase as AIO cooler when talking about water cooling . . . .
> 
> There's just no such thing as alchemy, you can't turn low budget mix 'n match into a show winner doh.gif
> 
> Darlene


It will be done. I'm doing a couple things that, frankly, have never been done before and are pretty extreme, all for an extremely low cost, open source, and robotic. I may need to win by scoring a few more points in the ingenuity and 'wow' factor rather than pure look, but I am confident my build will be better than any other new build.

I do believe a CLC can look as good as any other loop with barb/clamp fittings, i mean it's all the same thing... It's not like a clc rad looks much different than any other rad. Replace the tubing and it's water cooling all the same. There are many themes with my build, and a sharp looking build that you did all yourself, fabricated on your own, for a low cost, is a big part of it.

If you want to discuss why I'm an idiot, please do so in either of the 2 threads I linked. I came here looking for answers, not the same critical questions I've already answered and shut down a million times already. You don't think anyone's asked me that yet?


----------



## M3TAl

I have no idea what's used for the anti-corrosion in the Pastel or how well it slows down corrosion with aluminum in the loop. Either Mayhems himself will have to answer that or one of the other frequent visitors of this thread with far more knowledge on the subject.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Buy 1 bottle, usually comes in a gallon size, of distilled at the local supermarket or drug store and you'll have way more than enough for the AIO's.
> 
> I'm still not sure how it is that you can put aesthetics an the same phrase as AIO cooler when talking about water cooling . . . .
> 
> There's just no such thing as alchemy, you can't turn low budget mix 'n match into a show winner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Lololololololol. So true


----------



## Belial

you'll just have to see the build log then. I'm always surprised by the amount of negativity and discouragement I run into for wanting to mod and take things apart just for the sake of tinkering. This mod is not for performance nor is it 'recommendable', but I foresee a small about 5C temp increase on simply changing tubing/fluid on the H60 GPU mod which is okay, my max temp overvolted heavy oc 7950 is 30C right now with zero fans. I predict a 5-10C temp drop adding a res to the h110, which is what everyone else gets with adding a small res to a CLC.

The focus of my build is not the watercooling, but instead the robotics, MCU integration, and dynamic LCD and voltmeter panels I have. Like other stand-out MOTM winners, the liquid cooling is a complete afterthought and would win even if I was using a hyper 212. Originally I was actually going to sleeve my CLC tubing for aesthetics, but I figured I would 'do it right' and simply replace the tubing. It is very easy to do, if you have modding or liquid cooling experience. The h50 mod was quite popular in it's day.

I talked to Mayhems, they recommended I use Pastel + 5% X1 Concentrate + Dark Blue dye for my intended usage, mixed metal loops, and solid dark blue colors. I will be making the purchase tonight, with a swiftech micro res v2, alphacool 90* fittings deep black, lamptron black clamps, and primochill advanced clear tubing 1/4x3/8 & 3/8x1/2. Any recommended supplier for these parts?


----------



## M3TAl

There's a lot of elitism in the custom water crowd. Personally I don't care. Do what makes you happy. Always nice to see someone trying something new or different. Modding is modding.


----------



## Belial

hm someone told me the clc's 'need' PG. man what a headache tt. Hopefully he's either saved me or will say 'oh yea mayhem pastel+x1 is fine too'. Assuming he says, that:


Swiftech Micro Res v2 $25
Primochill Advanced LRT Clear Tubing
Lamptron Anondized Black clamps
zipties for h60, just normal plastic ones.
Mayhem's Pastel Blueberry Blue
Mayhem's X1 Concentrate (will add it so it's 5%, per mike's recommendation)
Mayhem's Dark Blue dye (for a darker blue than blueberry, ofc)


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Another one of those " search " questions.

Have any of you experienced gunk or residues in your micro channels of cpu/gpu blocks, or in the rads after using dyes in your loop?


----------



## M3TAl

Not sure Pastel and X1 need to be mixed together though. They're both their own complete liquid. Email or PM Mayhems about using aluminum with Pastel or adding X1 to it.


----------



## Belial

Yea I did (i said this in previous post but easy to not see):
Quote:


> I talked to Mayhems, they recommended I use Pastel + 5% X1 Concentrate + Dark Blue dye for my intended usage, mixed metal loops, and solid dark blue colors. I will be making the purchase tonight, with a swiftech micro res v2, alphacool 90* fittings deep black, lamptron black clamps, and primochill advanced clear tubing 1/4x3/8 & 3/8x1/2. Any recommended supplier for these parts?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhems*
> There is enough in the mix for the pastel all ready and should have no
> issue if you change it regular as a normal coolant. If you would like to
> increase its effective then add X1 concentrate only to the mix. 5% extra
> of X1 would be enough. Just add blue dye to make it darker. If using an
> Alu rad i strongly recommend you always change over you fluid ever 12
> months. No matter what fluid you use.
> 
> There should be no issues with the pump you intend to use.
> 
> Best tubing by far is primochill advance tubing.


I made it very clear to him what I was doing:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Hi, I was
> interested in using your coolants and dyes, but had a
> question:
>
> I am replacing the tubing and fluid to an H110 and H60 2013 closed loops.
> These coolers use mixed metals, an aluminum rad and copper block. So, I
> need strong anti-corrosive. The original fluid used is a green colored
> mix of Distilled water + about 35% propylene glycol.
>
> I would like to get a solid, dark blue look, to match my Z87X-UD3H board
> and electric blue paracord sleeving, so I was thinking the pastels would
> be great. I knlw they list as anti-corrosion, but I'm not sure if
> it's strong enough like a glycol, or XT-1.
>
> So my question to you, is should I use XT-1 (should I add blue dye on
> top, how much to use), or can I be safe to use Pastel (in which case,
> there is no pics of dark blue pastel, so do I do white pastel + blue dye
> or blueberry + blue dye)?
>
> Finally, I am using a swiftech micro res v2 on the h110 loop, if there
> are any compatibility issues, let me know. I also would appreciate a
> recommended tubing.
>
> Thanks. I'd really appreciate your feedback on this. These are
> closed loops, so I do need a fluid that will last. I can replace fluid as
> necessary, but longevity is important (1-2 years at least).I am entering
> into OCN Mod of the Month, so if I used your fluid is would be a
> highlighted feature of the build. You can see my build log as
> 'Belial's Perfect Z87 Build!' on OCN.
>
> TLDR: Mixing alu + cu in closed loop, can i use pastel for anti-corrosion
> or do I need to use xt-1. How to get dark blue with either.


Quote:


> Another one of those " search " questions.
> 
> Have any of you experienced gunk or residues in your micro channels of cpu/gpu blocks, or in the rads after using dyes in your loop?


It's really one of those 'a lot of misinformed people out there and a lot of products that have mystery ingredients that make things unclear' questions. I have no idea if there's gunk or residue, I haven't opened these CLC's yet and all the custom loops I've run were always straightforward, ie no mixed metals, no crazy dyes or anything. I'll check my tubing but I don't think I'll be tearing apart the blocks (less than 6 months old, stock, I'll flush it with some hot water though).

X1 and pastel don't use EG or PG, so it's definitely taking a leap of faith of sorts to trust them for anti-corrosion. Also, and my understanding is very limited, it's not actually PG/EG that is an anti-corrosive, but something that's added to them. Like whatever this additive is, it can't be diluted into water (?), or it's normally diluted into EG/PG. I'm not really certain, but basically if I went and bought pure EG/PG it may not work for this reason, while basic car antifreeze or redline water wetter would.

I mean it's all pretty confusing, it'd be simple if I just shut up and was okay with radioactive green liquid or something, or heck even just adding distilled water to make up for the extra space in the loop and keeping the original fluid, but I want something better and bluer.

It's extremely odd that, despite the fact many people have replaced the tubing/fluid on CLCs, the h50 mod thread has over 200 posts alone, not a single person was specific in the fluid they used. I heard one guy use redline water weter... that's really it. A few say 'antifreeze' but they all use different ingredients (hence why you have to 'match colors' when you add antifreeze to your car, certain colors represent if they have silicates or not, if they use EG, PG, or something else entirely) so that really doesn't tell you anything. Furthermore, none of them come back and say a year later 'omg X fluid I used DID/DID NOT cause issues'.

Then on top of this, throw you generic extremely ignorant and uninformed users who are using the wrong types of tubing, improper flushing, low quality coolants, fluids, additives, as you see just with normal custom loops, and it's hard to get a straight answer, much less an agreeable consensus. I know you guys and MayhemMike are very familiar with idiot users who blame something when it was something else or even entirely their own stupid fault.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Yea I did (i said this in previous post but easy to not see):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I made it very clear to him what I was doing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, I was
> > interested in using your coolants and dyes, but had a
> > question:
> >
> > I am replacing the tubing and fluid to an H110 and H60 2013 closed loops.
> > These coolers use mixed metals, an aluminum rad and copper block. So, I
> > need strong anti-corrosive. The original fluid used is a green colored
> > mix of Distilled water + about 35% propylene glycol.
> >
> > I would like to get a solid, dark blue look, to match my Z87X-UD3H board
> > and electric blue paracord sleeving, so I was thinking the pastels would
> > be great. I knlw they list as anti-corrosion, but I'm not sure if
> > it's strong enough like a glycol, or XT-1.
> >
> > So my question to you, is should I use XT-1 (should I add blue dye on
> > top, how much to use), or can I be safe to use Pastel (in which case,
> > there is no pics of dark blue pastel, so do I do white pastel + blue dye
> > or blueberry + blue dye)?
> >
> > Finally, I am using a swiftech micro res v2 on the h110 loop, if there
> > are any compatibility issues, let me know. I also would appreciate a
> > recommended tubing.
> >
> > Thanks. I'd really appreciate your feedback on this. These are
> > closed loops, so I do need a fluid that will last. I can replace fluid as
> > necessary, but longevity is important (1-2 years at least).I am entering
> > into OCN Mod of the Month, so if I used your fluid is would be a
> > highlighted feature of the build. You can see my build log as
> > 'Belial's Perfect Z87 Build!' on OCN.
> >
> > TLDR: Mixing alu + cu in closed loop, can i use pastel for anti-corrosion
> > or do I need to use xt-1. How to get dark blue with either.
> 
> 
> It's really one of those 'a lot of misinformed people out there and a lot of products that have mystery ingredients that make things unclear' questions. I have no idea if there's gunk or residue, I haven't opened these CLC's yet and all the custom loops I've run were always straightforward, ie no mixed metals, no crazy dyes or anything. I'll check my tubing but I don't think I'll be tearing apart the blocks (less than 6 months old, stock, I'll flush it with some hot water though).
> 
> X1 and pastel don't use EG or PG, so it's definitely taking a leap of faith of sorts to trust them for anti-corrosion. Also, and my understanding is very limited, it's not actually PG/EG that is an anti-corrosive, but something that's added to them. Like whatever this additive is, it can't be diluted into water (?), or it's normally diluted into EG/PG. I'm not really certain, but basically if I went and bought pure EG/PG it may not work for this reason, while basic car antifreeze or redline water wetter would.
> 
> I mean it's all pretty confusing, it'd be simple if I just shut up and was okay with radioactive green liquid or something, or heck even just adding distilled water to make up for the extra space in the loop and keeping the original fluid, but I want something better and bluer.
> 
> It's extremely odd that, despite the fact many people have replaced the tubing/fluid on CLCs, the h50 mod thread has over 200 posts alone, not a single person was specific in the fluid they used. I heard one guy use redline water weter... that's really it. A few say 'antifreeze' but they all use different ingredients (hence why you have to 'match colors' when you add antifreeze to your car, certain colors represent if they have silicates or not, if they use EG, PG, or something else entirely) so that really doesn't tell you anything. Furthermore, none of them come back and say a year later 'omg X fluid I used DID/DID NOT cause issues'.
> 
> Then on top of this, throw you generic extremely ignorant and uninformed users who are using the wrong types of tubing, improper flushing, low quality coolants, fluids, additives, as you see just with normal custom loops, and it's hard to get a straight answer, much less an agreeable consensus. I know you guys and MayhemMike are very familiar with idiot users who blame something when it was something else or even entirely their own stupid fault.


Ethylene glycol has inherent anti corrosive properties, as well as inherent anti microbial properties. It's also a piss poor thermal conductor, which is always why it's mixed in with water and often a surfactant/lubricant.

Now I HIGHLY doubt you'll be able to buy pure E.G. primarily due to the reason it's such a potent anti-microbial: It's very toxic. Ingesting 1.4ml of E.G. per kG of body weight is considered a lethal dose, so it doesn't take much.

Now, I'd follow Micks advice on this one, he'd know more about the potency of his anti-corrosives in his coolants than anyone else here.


----------



## Belial

I really dont care how toxic it is, I'm not eating the stuff, no kids around... I've worked in a lab and know how to handle caustic chemicals.
Quote:


> Now, I'd follow Micks advice on this one, he'd know more about the potency of his anti-corrosives in his coolants than anyone else here.


True, but bmaverick (the guy who said I need PG) is likely to be more knowledgeable on CLCs, and he seems like he's definitely knowledgeable as well. I've been doing a lot of reading up on this subject, anything on mixed metals on OCN almost always has him posting in it for the last like... 5 years. I'm surprised he even answered my post or was still active lol. Just _everything_ I've read says you need PG/EG, I mean why aren't asetek/coolit using whatever mayhem uses as an anti-corrosive (maybe too expensive, i'm sure there's an answer but I just dont know what it is)?

I mean what is even in pastel that makes it anti-corrosive? Why did mike recommend to add 5% X1? What's in X1 that's not in pastel for anti-corrosive?

Anyways, I'm just going to get some clarification on this, before I make a move. I can wait a day, not a big deal.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> *I really dont care how toxic it is, I'm not eating the stuff, no kids around... I've worked in a lab and know how to handle caustic chemicals.*
> True, but bmaverick (the guy who said I need PG) is likely to be more knowledgeable on CLCs, and he seems like he's definitely knowledgeable as well. I've been doing a lot of reading up on this subject, anything on mixed metals on OCN almost always has him posting in it for the last like... 5 years. I'm surprised he even answered my post or was still active lol. Just _everything_ I've read says you need PG/EG, I mean why aren't asetek/coolit using whatever mayhem uses as an anti-corrosive (maybe too expensive, i'm sure there's an answer but I just dont know what it is)?
> _
> I mean what is even in pastel that makes it anti-corrosive? Why did mike recommend to add 5% X1? What's in X1 that's not in pastel for anti-corrosive?_
> 
> Anyways, I'm just going to get some clarification on this, before I make a move. I can wait a day, not a big deal.


Bolded part: I wasn't critiquing your use of it, I was stating that in many places it can be near impossible to order ethylene glycol unless you work for a company that uses it in bulk, say a vehicle manufacturers plant, which even then mostly use propylene glycol these days if I remember correctly. Governments aren't exactly prone to allowing chemicals that can kill you with a couple spoon fulls to be easily mass distributed. Remember that propylene glycol is not an anti-corrosive.

Underlined Part: CLCs are a very vague term. It stands for closed loop cooler, meaning the loop is closed off. Technically most custom loops are all closed loop coolers, the term AIO CLCs is more applicable here. Even though bmayerick may be very educated on corrosion from mixing metals I highly doubt he has any knowledge on what Mayhems actually has in their coolants.

Italicized part: He did mention for performance, but, as you mentioned, it's probably in your best bet to wait for a response. Anti-corrosives can take many shapes and forms, from a material that prevents oxidation to something that coats oxidizing materials in a silicate rust inhibitor.


----------



## Belial

Mike clarified that the X1 is for stronger inhibition.

Swiftech stated that pg/eg is fine with their res.

Haven't heard anything from bmaverick so i'll place an order either tonight or sunday night, i still need to figure out fittings (1/4 x 3/8 actually is hard to find in not-butt-ugly).


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Another one of those " search " questions.
> 
> Have any of you experienced gunk or residues in your micro channels of cpu/gpu blocks, or in the rads after using dyes in your loop?


Please?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Please?


Better question







..... "Have any of you experienced gunk or residues in your micro channels of cpu/gpu blocks, or in the rads after using dyes in your loop that actually turned out to be caused by the dye".

Reason I point that out is there have been extensive discussions in this and other threads whereby dye was 1st assumed to be the cause and it was later determined to be caused by something else (most often leaching plasticizer from tubes) .


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Better question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... "Have any of you experienced gunk or residues in your micro channels of cpu/gpu blocks, or in the rads after using dyes in your loop that actually turned out to be caused by the dye".
> 
> Reason I point that out is there have been extensive discussions in this and other threads whereby dye was 1st assumed to be the cause and it was later determined to be caused by something else (most often leaching plasticizer from tubes) .


Glycol and copper sulphate causes gunking to occur. Plasticizers generally deposit themselves into the gunk making it more viscous, but generally Plasticizers shouldn't gunk on their own.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Glycol and copper sulphate causes gunking to occur. Plasticizers generally deposit themselves into the gunk making it more viscous, but generally Plasticizers shouldn't gunk on their own.


I'd love the clear tubing with some nice UV green mayhems concentrate
but I went with UV green tubing last time to avoid any if, ands, or buts..

I am assuming its the content of the dyes/fluid reacting with the plasticizer? If not I would have same end result with uv green or clear tubing correct?
I can buy the clear coolant or UV coolant, but I've never researched enough to where I could lay out all the facts about the tubing, fluid, and resulsts


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> I'd love the clear tubing with some nice UV green mayhems concentrate
> but I went with UV green tubing last time to avoid any if, ands, or buts..
> 
> I am assuming its the content of the dyes/fluid reacting with the plasticizer? If not I would have same end result with uv green or clear tubing correct?
> I can buy the clear coolant or UV coolant, but I've never researched enough to where I could lay out all the facts about the tubing, fluid, and resulsts


I have used the Primochill Advanced LRT clear tubing (7/16"x5/8") in 5 different builds in two years, all with Mayhems X1 or Mayhems Pastel. I always swap the X1 once a year (used the UV Blue, UV Green, and UV Red) they didn't stain my tubing at all. I've used the Pastel Red and the Pastel Black, and have not changed them in two years, but I did drain after one year, and the red had a very slight staining to the tubing that flushed with clear water only, and the black didn't stain at all.

I'm working on my next build and it's using Primochill rigid acrylic tubing. I don't know if it will stain that, but I don't really care honestly.

And in all the systems there was ZERO buildup in any of the blocks or reservoirs.

I hope this information is at least a little helpful.


----------



## Belial

I'm going to buy these I think for my replace-tubing of H60 2013/H110


alphacool pro 25

Probably use 2-3 90* bends
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15179/ex-tub-1171/Alphacool_G14_90_Low_Profile_Fitting_Adapter_-_Deep_Black.html?tl=g30c101s1306


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9554/ex-tub-506/Bitspower_Matte_Black_G14_Barb_Fitting_-_14_ID.html?tl=g30c407s1028



Black o-rings because the stock green on above fittings is ugly ;/

Mayhem Pastel Blueberry, X1 Blue Concentrate, Dark Blue Dye.
Primochill Advanced LRT clear 1/4 x 3/8, 3/8 x 1/2

However, 1 question left, about the reservoir, before I make a purchase - would a weak pump mean I can't use a certain reservoir, or any relationship? I mean a weak pump can pull from an ocean so... must be okay, right?

Because I thought the $25 swiftech micro res was my only option in my budget, but I didnt' see all the tube res' I could get for $30-40, which are awesome!
There's also a couple 'inline res'. Do these have to be run sideways like that, can I not just flip them over? And likewise, can I not run the alphacool tubes 'inline'? I'm a bit confused on that...

Any recommendations are appreciated











edit: on second thought, i think it'll look better if the order was changed to Block ->Res -> Rad -> Block so the tubing isn't reaching all through all the extensions and everything.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I'm going to buy these I think for my replace-tubing of H60 2013/H110
> 
> 
> alphacool pro 25
> 
> Probably use 2-3 90* bends
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15179/ex-tub-1171/Alphacool_G14_90_Low_Profile_Fitting_Adapter_-_Deep_Black.html?tl=g30c101s1306
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9554/ex-tub-506/Bitspower_Matte_Black_G14_Barb_Fitting_-_14_ID.html?tl=g30c407s1028
> 
> 
> 
> Black o-rings because the stock green on above fittings is ugly ;/
> 
> Mayhem Pastel Blueberry, X1 Blue Concentrate, Dark Blue Dye.
> Primochill Advanced LRT clear 1/4 x 3/8, 3/8 x 1/2
> 
> However, 1 question left, about the reservoir, before I make a purchase - would a weak pump mean I can't use a certain reservoir, or any relationship? I mean a weak pump can pull from an ocean so... must be okay, right?
> 
> Because I thought the $25 swiftech micro res was my only option in my budget, but I didnt' see all the tube res' I could get for $30-40, which are awesome!
> There's also a couple 'inline res'. Do these have to be run sideways like that, can I not just flip them over? And likewise, can I not run the alphacool tubes 'inline'? I'm a bit confused on that...
> 
> Any recommendations are appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: on second thought, i think it'll look better if the order was changed to Block ->Res -> Rad -> Block so the tubing isn't reaching all through all the extensions and everything.


I can 110% promise you you'll need a new pump. The corsair stock pump gets 0.2GPM nominal flow.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I'm going to buy these I think for my replace-tubing of H60 2013/H110
> 
> 
> alphacool pro 25
> 
> Probably use 2-3 90* bends
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15179/ex-tub-1171/Alphacool_G14_90_Low_Profile_Fitting_Adapter_-_Deep_Black.html?tl=g30c101s1306
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9554/ex-tub-506/Bitspower_Matte_Black_G14_Barb_Fitting_-_14_ID.html?tl=g30c407s1028
> 
> 
> 
> Black o-rings because the stock green on above fittings is ugly ;/
> 
> Mayhem Pastel Blueberry, X1 Blue Concentrate, Dark Blue Dye.
> Primochill Advanced LRT clear 1/4 x 3/8, 3/8 x 1/2
> 
> However, 1 question left, about the reservoir, before I make a purchase - would a weak pump mean I can't use a certain reservoir, or any relationship? I mean a weak pump can pull from an ocean so... must be okay, right?
> 
> Because I thought the $25 swiftech micro res was my only option in my budget, but I didnt' see all the tube res' I could get for $30-40, which are awesome!
> There's also a couple 'inline res'. Do these have to be run sideways like that, can I not just flip them over? And likewise, can I not run the alphacool tubes 'inline'? I'm a bit confused on that...
> 
> Any recommendations are appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: on second thought, i think it'll look better if the order was changed to Block ->Res -> Rad -> Block so the tubing isn't reaching all through all the extensions and everything.


Am I correct in thinking that BOTH of your blocks have pumps in them? If so, you shouldn't have any issues with the big reservoirs, it WILL show you how visibly slow the pump/s are actually pumping. I really like the big tube reservoirs, they increase the liquid capacity which in turn means there is more fluid to heat up till you have reached your delta-t.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Am I correct in thinking that BOTH of your blocks have pumps in them? If so, you shouldn't have any issues with the big reservoirs, it WILL show you how visibly slow the pump/s are actually pumping. I really like the big tube reservoirs, they increase the liquid capacity which in turn means there is more fluid to heat up till you have reached your delta-t.


I'm very doubtful in that. The Corsair pump's nominal flow, which means it's flow with no restriction, is around .2GPM. They really don't use a very nice pump for their unit, primarily because they don't need to. The Corsair units are not designed as performance AIO CLCs. They are designed to cool effectively for budget prices. They barely outperform air coolers, though they do it in a quieter fashion.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'm very doubtful in that. The Corsair pump's nominal flow, which means it's flow with no restriction, is around .2GPM. They really don't use a very nice pump for their unit, primarily because they don't need to. The Corsair units are not designed as performance AIO CLCs. They are designed to cool effectively for budget prices. They barely outperform air coolers, though they do it in a quieter fashion.


Zythe, the reservoir will add NO restriction to the system. If anything, the extra fluid above the pump will increase the possible flow rate of the pump, if I remember back to my course on fluid dynamics.


----------



## Belial

Are you recommending a new block because the reservoir will strain it, or are you saying I need a new pump because of typical, anti-modder, negative feedback?

Because I've made it clear that this mod is for aesthetics and tinkering, not for performance. The initial plan was just to wrap the tubing, but I figured I'd 'do it right' and simply replace the tubing. And if I'm replacing the tubing, I might as well add a reservoir - people _consistently_ get a 10-15C temp drop when adding a small res to their closed loops (h50 mod, 620, h100, etc). The aesthetics of a reservoir, however, are the main reason for adding one (it'd really fill a deadspace inside my build).

Now it's kinda grown to 'well why bother getting a tiny $25 micro res when i can get a $30 big tube' basically.
Quote:


> Am I correct in thinking that BOTH of your blocks have pumps in them? If so, you shouldn't have any issues with the big reservoirs, it WILL show you how visibly slow the pump/s are actually pumping. I really like the big tube reservoirs, they increase the liquid capacity which in turn means there is more fluid to heat up till you have reached your delta-t.


Yes, the H60 2013 and H110 both have block/pumps, but I will only be adding the res to the H110. For the h60 I'm simply replacing the tubing (my temps on 7950 1.3v is only 33c with no fans, i'm really not worried about it). I might add a t-line but probably not to that one. I am not connecting these loops. I am just replacing the tubing, + a reservoir to the h110 here. It's all aesthetics, and I am actually okay with a temp _increase_ (though I'd actually prefer a temp decrease on the h110, but really, id be okay with an increase on h60 and just stay even on h110).
Quote:


> Zythe, the reservoir will add NO restriction to the system. If anything, the extra fluid above the pump will increase the possible flow rate of the pump, if I remember back to my course on fluid dynamics.


I'm not so sure I'd place the res above the pump, please check out the diagram I posted. Please, I am unaware of any res-block ordering or pump-being-above/below guidelines.
Quote:


> I'm very doubtful in that. The Corsair pump's nominal flow, which means it's flow with no restriction, is around .2GPM. They really don't use a very nice pump for their unit, primarily because they don't need to. The Corsair units are not designed as performance AIO CLCs. They are designed to cool effectively for budget prices. They barely outperform air coolers, though they do it in a quieter fashion.


It sounds like you are talking about the Gen1 asetek H50 , or similar, not the newer Gen3/gen4 aseteks. I'll get back with the officialspecs, i 5think some people even measured it.

I just want to know if adding a large res somehow hurts flow or strains the pump any more than no res or a small res - as well as positioning of said res.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Are you recommending a new block because the reservoir will strain it, or are you saying I need a new pump because of typical, anti-modder, negative feedback?
> 
> Because I've made it clear that this mod is for aesthetics and tinkering, not for performance. The initial plan was just to wrap the tubing, but I figured I'd 'do it right' and simply replace the tubing. And if I'm replacing the tubing, I might as well add a reservoir - people _consistently_ get a 10-15C temp drop when adding a small res to their closed loops (h50 mod, 620, h100, etc). The aesthetics of a reservoir, however, are the main reason for adding one (it'd really fill a deadspace inside my build).
> 
> Now it's kinda grown to 'well why bother getting a tiny $25 micro res when i can get a $30 big tube' basically.
> Yes, the H60 2013 and H110 both have block/pumps, but I will only be adding the res to the H110. For the h60 I'm simply replacing the tubing (my temps on 7950 1.3v is only 33c with no fans, i'm really not worried about it). I might add a t-line but probably not to that one. I am not connecting these loops. I am just replacing the tubing, + a reservoir to the h110 here. It's all aesthetics, and I am actually okay with a temp _increase_ (though I'd actually prefer a temp decrease on the h110, but really, id be okay with an increase on h60 and just stay even on h110).
> I'm not so sure I'd place the res above the pump, please check out the diagram I posted. Please, I am unaware of any res-block ordering or pump-being-above/below guidelines.
> It sounds like you are talking about the Gen1 asetek H50 , or similar, not the newer Gen3/gen4 aseteks. I'll get back with the officialspecs, i 5think some people even measured it.
> 
> I just want to know if adding a large res somehow hurts flow or strains the pump any more than no res or a small res - as well as positioning of said res.


Adding the res will not/should not effect the pump in a negative manner, and going by your diagram, the middle of the res body is even with the block or higher, which should help the pump. Since that puts a column of water ABOVE the pump still in elevation, even if the res isn't in "placement" above the pump.

Also, your description of "block-res-rad-block" was vague as to what the "second" block was, I'm guessing you meant block-res-rad-back to block!?! Or CPU-res-rad-CPU to be even more clear.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Zythe, the reservoir will add NO restriction to the system. If anything, the extra fluid above the pump will increase the possible flow rate of the pump, if I remember back to my course on fluid dynamics.


The extra fluid is not placed above the pump. The addition of the res /should/ yield no performance drop, though I'm fairly certain it won't increase it at all. Pump efficiency increase reservoirs is due to gravities natural effect feeding the pump. A pump only needs to be gravity fed if it's not in a loop. If it's in a loop pushing water out will feed water in, but that yields a slight performance drop. A pump with a reservoir feeding it via gravity negates that drop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Are you recommending a new block because the reservoir will strain it, or are you saying I need a new pump because of typical, anti-modder, negative feedback?
> 
> Because I've made it clear that this mod is for aesthetics and tinkering, not for performance. The initial plan was just to wrap the tubing, but I figured I'd 'do it right' and simply replace the tubing. And if I'm replacing the tubing, I might as well add a reservoir - people _consistently_ get a 10-15C temp drop when adding a small res to their closed loops (h50 mod, 620, h100, etc). The aesthetics of a reservoir, however, are the main reason for adding one (it'd really fill a deadspace inside my build).
> 
> Now it's kinda grown to 'well why bother getting a tiny $25 micro res when i can get a $30 big tube' basically.
> Yes, the H60 2013 and H110 both have block/pumps, but I will only be adding the res to the H110. For the h60 I'm simply replacing the tubing (my temps on 7950 1.3v is only 33c with no fans, i'm really not worried about it). I might add a t-line but probably not to that one. I am not connecting these loops. I am just replacing the tubing, + a reservoir to the h110 here. It's all aesthetics, and I am actually okay with a temp _increase_ (though I'd actually prefer a temp decrease on the h110, but really, id be okay with an increase on h60 and just stay even on h110).
> I'm not so sure I'd place the res above the pump, please check out the diagram I posted. Please, I am unaware of any res-block ordering or pump-being-above/below guidelines.
> It sounds like you are talking about the Gen1 asetek H50 , or similar, not the newer Gen3/gen4 aseteks. I'll get back with the officialspecs, i 5think some people even measured it.
> 
> I just want to know if adding a large res somehow hurts flow or strains the pump any more than no res or a small res - as well as positioning of said res.


According to this H50 and H110 have the same pump, as do most all Corsair units as well as most AIO CLCs.

There's no way a kit with a retail price of one and a quarter bill is going to have a quality pump, there's just no room for profit. My guess is it uses something close to the Alphacool DC-LT which has a nominal flow of .52GPM, with a max pressure rating of around 3psi. Probably something even cheaper.

The reservoir shouldn't add any restriction, though given it's placement in relatoin to your loop I doubt it will improve performance. The increased tubing on the other hand.... Possibly a very small amount, but remember you're working with a very weak pump.

I'm in no way shape or form saying not to go for the mod, but I'm doubtful the puny pumps in there will be enough. It's an easy enough expansion if it doesn't prove sufficient, just clamp the tubes, and unhook it somewhere so you can pop in the new pump. Easy fix if I ended up being right, so there's no prevalent reason not to try it without a new pump.

The .2GPM rating I gave was based on a thread I was following where someone who was going to cannibalize a Corsair AIO CLC to start a custom loop. He ended up stripping the stock pump completely and throwing in a new pump in the loop, though he did add radiators to it.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Are you recommending a new block because the reservoir will strain it, or are you saying I need a new pump because of typical, anti-modder, negative feedback?
> 
> Because I've made it clear that this mod is for aesthetics and tinkering, not for performance. The initial plan was just to wrap the tubing, but I figured I'd 'do it right' and simply replace the tubing. And if I'm replacing the tubing, I might as well add a reservoir - people _consistently_ get a 10-15C temp drop when adding a small res to their closed loops (h50 mod, 620, h100, etc). The aesthetics of a reservoir, however, are the main reason for adding one (it'd really fill a deadspace inside my build).
> 
> Now it's kinda grown to 'well why bother getting a tiny $25 micro res when i can get a $30 big tube' basically.
> Yes, the H60 2013 and H110 both have block/pumps, but I will only be adding the res to the H110. For the h60 I'm simply replacing the tubing (my temps on 7950 1.3v is only 33c with no fans, i'm really not worried about it). I might add a t-line but probably not to that one. I am not connecting these loops. I am just replacing the tubing, + a reservoir to the h110 here. It's all aesthetics, and I am actually okay with a temp _increase_ (though I'd actually prefer a temp decrease on the h110, but really, id be okay with an increase on h60 and just stay even on h110).
> I'm not so sure I'd place the res above the pump, please check out the diagram I posted. Please, I am unaware of any res-block ordering or pump-being-above/below guidelines.
> It sounds like you are talking about the Gen1 asetek H50 , or similar, not the newer Gen3/gen4 aseteks. I'll get back with the officialspecs, i 5think some people even measured it.
> 
> I just want to know if adding a large res somehow hurts flow or strains the pump any more than no res or a small res - as well as positioning of said res.
> 
> 
> 
> Adding the res will not/should not effect the pump in a negative manner, and going by your diagram, the middle of the res body is even with the block or higher, which should help the pump. Since that puts a column of water ABOVE the pump still in elevation, even if the res isn't in "placement" above the pump.
> 
> Also, your description of "block-res-rad-block" was vague as to what the "second" block was, I'm guessing you meant block-res-rad-back to block!?! Or CPU-res-rad-CPU to be even more clear.
Click to expand...

Stock CPU/Block -> Reservoir -> Rad -> Back (to stock CPU/Block). Sorry that wasn't clear.

There's no problems with like that big line of tubing that'll be going from bottom of res all the way up or anything, right?

Thanks for the help!


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> The extra fluid is not placed above the pump. The addition of the res /should/ yield no performance drop, though I'm fairly certain it won't increase it at all. Pump efficiency increase reservoirs is due to gravities natural effect feeding the pump. A pump only needs to be gravity fed if it's not in a loop. If it's in a loop pushing water out will feed water in, but that yields a slight performance drop. A pump with a reservoir feeding it via gravity negates that drop.


Wow, negative nancy! I'm not sure why you think an addition of a res 'should' not yield no performance increase, please educate and check out the H50 mod guides, and basically every CLC mod (literally look up any model + reservoir mod, tubing mod, etc). Adding a reservoir _always_ nets a 10-15C temp drop.

People also see a similar temp drop by being ridiculous and doing things like adding _another_ 240mm rad, etc, but I'm pretty sure their _only_ 10C temp drops are due to the extra fluid, and with closed loops, adding extra stuff to it just is limited by how much increase in performance you can get due to the pump. 10C is nice, but not going to see much more due to the weak pump. So $100 in a rad? kinda dumb. $30 in a res? A smart choice imo (of a rather meaningless mod, sure).

I've seen only 2 instances of temp _increases or the same temps_, and these were always cases of people like... adding a 240mm rad _plus_ another rad, which is kinda ridiculous, and those were on much older CLCs, like h50s and stuff lol.

But like I said, I could care less if performance stayed the same or even decreased. The focus is aesthetics, and a certain DIY approach to taking stuff apart with my mod. If you check my build log, you'll see all sorts of cool stuff, like using robotics for under $20 to make my side panel open with the push of a button, a voltmeter that displays voltages accurately on an LCD, and a dedicated UPS that powers these mods that runs off the 5VSB when pc on and a charged battery when PC off. Again, all under $20, and this CLC mod is in similar vein and not even the focus of my mod, which will win MOTM.
Quote:


> According to this H50 and H110 have the same pump, as do most all Corsair units as well as most AIO CLCs.


Yes, they have the same _asetek_ branded pumps, but they are not the same pumps lol.... and most corsair units are not asetek these days, but actually coolit eco 3s. I think you are a little confused on the different CLCs and the internals.

Regardless, we can agree the pump is weak, but I'm not sure what the relevance of this is to someone who doesn't care, and is simply asking "Is there a difference between a small pump and a large res on a weak pump", and not "is adding a res worth it', 'is my pump strong enough', etc.

Please, if you want to critisize, go to my build log or my dedicated CLC modding thread, I am just here for help. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Quote:


> I'm in no way shape or form saying not to go for the mod, but I'm doubtful the puny pumps in there will be enough. It's an easy enough expansion if it doesn't prove sufficient, just clamp the tubes, and unhook it somewhere so you can pop in the new pump. Easy fix if I ended up being right, so there's no prevalent reason not to try it without a new pump.


Can you please be clear - is adding a large res extra strain on a pump anymore than a small res? Because this mod has been proven successful with small res's, so I need to know if somehow a large res will be any more taxing than a small one.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> People also see a similar temp drop by being ridiculous and doing things like adding _another_ 240mm rad, etc, but I'm pretty sure their _only_ 10C temp drops are due to the extra fluid, and with closed loops, adding extra stuff to it just is limited by how much increase in performance you can get due to the pump. 10C is nice, but not going to see much more due to the weak pump. So $100 in a rad? kinda dumb. $30 in a res? A smart choice imo (of a rather meaningless mod, sure).


Not trying to really get involved here but that statement above is just false. Adding another radiator yes increases the amount of water in your loop but it greatly dissipates heat in your loop. Which is the whole point for performance gains. Would you rather have a radiator heating your house that is 4 ft. long or 18 ft. long? It's simple thermodynamics here....

Here is a simple explanation of what is going on here. Water has a specific heat capacity which allows for certain absorption of energy per unit mass of the water. If you add more water to a loop the only thing that changes is how long it will take your system to reach it's equilibrium temperature. Much like how it takes longer to boil a cup of water vs 5 cups of water.

When you add an extra radiator you are dissipating more heat out of your system. Which lowers your equilibrium temperature because the water doesn't have a chance to heat up as much before that heat is taken away. Hence the point of the radiator.

Yes the amount of performance gains will be limited by your pump (again thermodynamics this is determined by mass flow rate) but the difference between a reservoir and a radiator are two fundamentally different things and you will always see lower temperatures adding in a radiator over a reservoir.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Are you recommending a new block because the reservoir will strain it, or are you saying I need a new pump because of typical, anti-modder, negative feedback?
> 
> Because I've made it clear that this mod is for aesthetics and tinkering, not for performance. The initial plan was just to wrap the tubing, but I figured I'd 'do it right' and simply replace the tubing. And if I'm replacing the tubing, I might as well add a reservoir - people _consistently_ get a 10-15C temp drop when adding a small res to their closed loops (h50 mod, 620, h100, etc). The aesthetics of a reservoir, however, are the main reason for adding one (it'd really fill a deadspace inside my build).
> 
> Now it's kinda grown to 'well why bother getting a tiny $25 micro res when i can get a $30 big tube' basically.
> Yes, the H60 2013 and H110 both have block/pumps, but I will only be adding the res to the H110. For the h60 I'm simply replacing the tubing (my temps on 7950 1.3v is only 33c with no fans, i'm really not worried about it). I might add a t-line but probably not to that one. I am not connecting these loops. I am just replacing the tubing, + a reservoir to the h110 here. It's all aesthetics, and I am actually okay with a temp _increase_ (though I'd actually prefer a temp decrease on the h110, but really, id be okay with an increase on h60 and just stay even on h110).
> I'm not so sure I'd place the res above the pump, please check out the diagram I posted. Please, I am unaware of any res-block ordering or pump-being-above/below guidelines.
> It sounds like you are talking about the Gen1 asetek H50 , or similar, not the newer Gen3/gen4 aseteks. I'll get back with the officialspecs, i 5think some people even measured it.
> 
> I just want to know if adding a large res somehow hurts flow or strains the pump any more than no res or a small res - as well as positioning of said res.
> 
> 
> 
> Adding the res will not/should not effect the pump in a negative manner, and going by your diagram, the middle of the res body is even with the block or higher, which should help the pump. Since that puts a column of water ABOVE the pump still in elevation, even if the res isn't in "placement" above the pump.
> 
> Also, your description of "block-res-rad-block" was vague as to what the "second" block was, I'm guessing you meant block-res-rad-back to block!?! Or CPU-res-rad-CPU to be even more clear.
Click to expand...

Why do you say it's even? It looks like the res is actually below the pump. What are you talking about _exactly_? Are you referring to the relation of the Block and Reservoir Inlet? The diagram is not exact, but I'll likely place the res lower than in the picture.

Please, let me know what exactly you mean, like what 'rule' you are talking about. Does the res need, or should be, above the block? Because the bottom/outlet of the res is definitely below the block, and the water line will be below the block.

I plan to have the inlet at the top of the res, and have the water 'drop' down into the res, drip drip drip. I was actually originally intending to do that with a swiftech micro res, despite that the 'conventional' mounts are both to the lower side.
Quote:


> Not trying to really get involved here but that statement above is just false. Adding another radiator yes increases the amount of water in your loop but it greatly dissipates heat in your loop. Which is the whole point for performance gains. Would you rather have a radiator heating your house that is 4 ft. long or 18 ft. long? It's simple thermodynamics here....


Perhaps, I do not claim to know the reasoning, they were just guesses, but from all build logs I've seen of the mod where people added huge reses, added multiple large reses, etc, they never got more than 10C temp decreases, the same (if not less) than adding a small, micro res. Now, I _believe_, this is because the rad's increased dissipation, is made useless by the weak pump, and that the majority of the temp drop can be due to the increase in water.

For example there's a guy who added like, on an h50... a 240mm fat res, he put his motherboard northbridge on it, and I believe something else too, and got like a 10C increase in temps all around. I think he just strained his loop too much or something with all those blocks and the huge rad, for the h50.

I'm guessing that a res doesnt add too much strain, and that the strain between a large or small res is identical, and that strain has more to do with turns and bends rather than amount of water in the loop. Based on what I've heard.

So to answer your question... I'd rather have a small radiator with less restriction if I had a puny pump, than a large one?

edit: Anyways, thanks for replying (was that really so hard?) I'm just trying to learn and understand here, I know most people would rather just not be helpful +rep (for all of you)

I'm currently looking at:

Phobya Balancers
FrozenQ Flex Tank
Swiftech Micro Res
Alphacool Cape Corp
Alphacool Cape Cyclone
Alphacool Bullseye
Primochill CTR advanced

Probably leaning towards a phobya or primochill CTR due to the side output on the bottom, means I don't need a 90* fitting there (or, would need one less 90* fitting, not entirely sure on tubing paths yet, i think I'm going to hide the res to rad tube). I just can't find any pics of the primochill ctr _advanced_ besides stock pics (really weird...), and the phobya balancer's threading, not sure how i feel about that.

Finally a quick question - can I use a pump-res? Like I see a ton of pump-top reservoirs, can those be used on their own? Sure would add a lot more options to considerable reservoirs to the list.


----------



## Belial

does a t-line add restriction at all, do you guys recommend them (yes, i've searched this, no good stuff on it). If they are really that useful I could throw them in on my h60 loop, and the h110 loop too I guess. Just add 2 feet of tubing, stash it behind case and i can pull it out and above the rest of the system when necessary.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'm very doubtful in that. The Corsair pump's nominal flow, which means it's flow with no restriction, is around .2GPM. They really don't use a very nice pump for their unit, primarily because they don't need to. The Corsair units are not designed as performance AIO CLCs. They are designed to cool effectively for budget prices. They barely outperform air coolers, though they do it in a quieter fashion.


Quieter fashion ? Not in my experience. I have 6 desktops here.....one has a Megahalems, one has a Silver Arrow, one has a Phanteks PH-TC14-PE (all have 1200 rpm fans) .... , one has custom loop and the other two are just stuff i repaired that was left here.... none of them can be heard w/ the case panels on and and each competes well in thermal performance with the H100i. The quietest AIOs I have ever experienced were the Antec 620s but swapped that one out for the Silver Arrow which cooled better and was quieter.

http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=674&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=4

The H100i OTOH breaks into vacuum cleaner territory at 60 dBA as you can hear here:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/03/12/swiftech-h220-vs-corsair-h100i-noise-testing/

Review comments about noise
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/corsair_h100_hydro_series_extreme_performance_liquid_cpu_cooler,16.html
Quote:


> However, this performance comes at a cost; noise. At 2600RPM, the H100 isn't a quiet unit at all and similarly at 2000RPM, it can still be quite intrusive. In terms of performance per noise, high end air coolers from Phanteks, Noctua and Thermalright still reign supreme, contrary to Corsair's own marketing. *Like other ALC units, the H100 relies too much on high RPM fans for its performance when the goal of water cooling is generally for extreme performance at low noise levels*.


Can see how they stack up thermally here:
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/corsair_h100_hydro_series_extreme_performance_liquid_cpu_cooler,14.html


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Zythe, the reservoir will add NO restriction to the system. If anything, the extra fluid above the pump will increase the possible flow rate of the pump,


In an open loop yes, in a closed loop has no effect...... the only possible effects of adding a reservoir to a closed loop that doesn't already have one are as follows:

1. The addition of thermal mass will mean that coolant will take longer to heat up and also eliminate temp spikes as system goes the periods of extreme loads and more moderate loads.
2. The air gap at top will eliminate any gas bubbles that form and thereby any potential loss of efficiencies.
Quote:


> if I remember back to my course on fluid dynamics.


I remember you ! ..... didn't I catch you sleeping in my class that the Monday after Super Bowl Sunday ?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I'm not sure why you think an addition of a res 'should' not yield no performance increase


I would say because the laws of Thermodynamics do not allow for it. In order to see a temperature drop within a loop..... the thermal load of the hotter material must be transferred thru some type of heat exchange to another material..... by running hot water thru a rad and blowing air over the a very large area of fin metal you exchange the heat from the water to the metal to the air....the high transfer rate of the air, combined with the large surface area of the fins makes this quite effective despite air's poor heat transfer abilities.

water = good conductor
copper = good conductor
air = poor conductor
Surface Area = very large die to closely spaced rad fins
Transfer Volume of Receiving Medium = Huge (~60 cfm per fan)
Delta T between Ambient air and Water = 10C+

There will be some thermal radiation which takes place from the thermal mass of water in the reservoir to the acrylic to the air. This will greatly depend on the relative wetted surface area of the res to the fluid volume of the res and where it is

water = good conductor
acrylic = poor conductor
air = poor conductor
Surface Area = minimal on tube res, miniscule on bay res.system
Transfer Volume of Receiving Medium = Almost nonexistent, especially w/ bay res
Delta T between Case air and Water = 2-4C tops

The actual amount of thermal transfer will be minimal here because you don't have a good transfer medium in the acrylic, you don't have a lot of surface area compared with rad fins, you have a very small Delta T and you have minimal air transfer across the surface.

Where you will see a significant improvement however is in heat spiking .... whereas the average temperature in the loop would change little .... it will take much longer for the coolant to reach a steady state temperature. It will also cut down greatly on temperature spiking .... with a small amount of coolant in a loop, you can readily observe temps going up and down as the system experiences periods of very high loadings and more moderate loadings. The additional thermal mass will reduce this spikng and provide more stable temps.... instead of seeing temps say top out at 60C and go up and down...you will likely see it top out at something less and vary less.
Quote:


> People also see a similar temp drop by being ridiculous and doing things like adding _another_ 240mm rad, etc, but I'm pretty sure their _only_ 10C temp drops are due to the extra fluid, and with closed loops, adding extra stuff to it just is limited by how much increase in performance you can get due to the pump. 10C is nice, but not going to see much more due to the weak pump. So $100 in a rad? kinda dumb. $30 in a res? A smart choice imo (of a rather meaningless mod, sure).


Well if the goal is to reduce temps, anyone working in the field of thermodynamics would certainly recommend that as the only "logical" solution as it's the only one supported by scientific principals. Think of it this way ....

Scenario 1 - I have an empty 5 gallon jug with an over flow pipe and a use a pump that pump 1 gpm into it, I can expect what flow rate to come down that over flow pipe once jug is full ?

Scenario 2 - I have an a swimming pool with an over flow pipe and a use a pump that pump 1 gpm into it, I can expect what flow rate to come down that over flow pipe once pool is full ?

Answer to both questions is 1 gpm ..... what comes in, must go out.....size of container it goes thru is immaterial once both are full.

No difference here..... you have 145 watts of heat coming out of say an overclocked haswell CPU .... it has one and only way to get out in any significant quantity and that is thru the rads. With the water, 1 gallon in must equal 1 gallon out .... with the heat, 1 watt in must equal 1 watt out and the small surface area provided by the res, couples with the minimal delta T inside the case and the minimal air movement inside the case means the addition of the res will have only a minimal effect on heat transfer.

When I run a Furmark test it can take well over an hour to reach a state of equilibrium, mainly due to the fact that a) I have 2 liters of coolant and b) the pump and fan curves increase speeds in response to increased temps. If I added another es, it would take longer to reach that state of equilibrium but it would still reach almost the exact same temperature.
Quote:


> Regardless, we can agree the pump is weak, but I'm not sure what the relevance of this is to someone who doesn't care, and is simply asking "Is there a difference between a small pump and a large res on a weak pump", and not "is adding a res worth it', 'is my pump strong enough', etc.


A pump has to be big enough to get the fluid thru the loop.....after that "going bigger" offers no improvement. I have 6 temp sensors in my loop and twin 35x pumps and I am speaking from hours of experimentation ....when I run at slower speeds I can have water entering my first rad at say 36C and exiting the second rad at 32C ..... increasing the pump speed to max I can drop that down to say 34.5 C going in and like 32.2C coming out. The over all effect is almost nil unless you get to a point where you drop below the threshold the rads need to be effective.
Quote:


> Is adding a large res extra strain on a pump anymore than a small res?


The pump will respond no differently to the volume of the res, the location of the res or even the height of the res in a closed loop once flow rate has been established. In an open loop and at the initial startup of a closed loop, the height of the res is a factor. What will impact the pump is the number of fittings, the number of direction changes, the number and size of res inlets and outlets and any other restrictions which impede flow. In short, if you use a 100mm, 150mm, 250mm or 400mm of the same res with the same top / bottom, inlet arrangement and connections, the pump will respond identically to each one of them.

As for reservoirs brands .... to my view

Best Quality .... Borosilicate Glass models like the Photon and Aqualis followed by acrylic tube res's followed by bay res.

Installation / Accessories - Multiport top and fill tube recommended for best operation and flexibility

Tee Lines - Useful for draining if other options not available....in order of preference

-Quik-Disconnect on bottom outlet of lower rad
-Valve and plug on bottom outlet of lower rad
-Threaded Tee fitting with valve on pump inlet or discharge

Pump - M X M Thd Extender - Tee - Male Tube Connector to rest of loop

Off the branch of the Tee - M X M Thd Extender - Valve - Plug

In Drawer - Tube w/ Compression Fitting and male screw thread

Or instead the the valve & plug, off the Tee, use a Male Quick Disconnect .... and in drawer have the female disconnect , and compression connector to tube

A tee presents what is referred to as a "fitting loss" usually expressed as a "k value", the total loss in a loop is equal to the sum of all k factors x V^2 / 2g where V -= flow velocity and g is the coeffecient of gavity

K values can be found here

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/minor-loss-coefficients-pipes-d_626.html

Tee, Threaded, Dividing Line Flow 0.9
Tee, Threaded , Dividing Branch Flow 2.0

Going here we can calculate velocity and loss thru the system

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/hazen-williams-water-d_797.html

Put in 4' tube, 140 friction coefficient, 1.0 gpm and 0.4" diameter (10mm) and we get

Actual Head Loss (ft H2O): 0.386
Velocity (ft/s): 2.55

Your T fitting has a K value of 0.9 so ..... 0.9 x 2.55^2 / (2 x 32.2) = 0.09 ft H20 head loss.

Ya can look at ya pumo curve toi see what effect that might have if it bugs ya but, suffice to say the effect won't be noticeable.


----------



## Belial

Yea, to say a CLC is quieter than air is not really right. CLCs are more like air coolers than custom water, and perform similiarly, ie a low end 120x25mm is about equal to midrange air (ie h50, h60, 620, lq310 = megahalems, havik, archon), a 120x50 'fat 120' clc is about equal to high end air (ie lq315, 920, h80 = nh-d14, phanteks, silverarrow, assassin), and a 240mm high end clc is a small step 'up' from high air ,e h100, cm240m, h100i, and a 280mm h110/x80 is a step above that and below an entry custom kit like h220, xspc.

How loud a cooler is, is 98% the fans used. So an h60 with loud/fast fans is the same as a midrange air with loud/fast fans. CLCs on their own are no quieter than air, just like a custom loop is no louder. Now, of course, a custom loop with quiet fans will out perform an air or clc with quiet fans, but that is heatsink performance, not that clc are inherently quieter.

And ofc the stock fans heatsinks come with are always crappy below about $80.

I mean saying an antec kuhler 620 is quiet makes no sense. Its just a heatsink that performs similiarly to a midrange air heatsink, how loud or quiet your custom loop, clc, or air is based on your fan speeds.

Now heatsinks can have a *small* impact on noise, and higher FPI = higher noise, but it also means reduced cooling, but your talking 1% of total noise. IE NH-d14 is quieter than phanteks, but its also the 'worst' high end air (but ofc, surface area is king and your talking 1-3* between similar levels of heatsinks).

Thanks for the clarification on reservoirs, but I'm a bit confused what you mean 'open loop'. Is that one where its not 100% sealed off or air is in it? Because I plan to have my res only like 80% full so you see the water dripping down into the res.

I looked into how 90* fittings affect flow, it sounds like only if you got like more than 4 is it really an issue, and that a rad has a ton of such tight turns anyways.

I'll go ahead with my purchases though, thanks. I think I'll go with the phobya. Any recommendations ona sub50 tube?


----------



## Deepsouth1987

I use alot of 90* fittings and it doesn't affect my flow that much running with two pumps. I love my phobya radiators too they are amazing, you should totally get em!

Anyways show off some of that Mayhems UV X1 Green!

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0103_zps79ed4c18.jpg.html

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0102_zps6c6ab4cb.jpg.html

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0105_zps61e8bef0.jpg.html


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> In an open loop yes, in a closed loop has no effect...... the only possible effects of adding a reservoir to a closed loop that doesn't already have one are as follows:
> 
> 1. The addition of thermal mass will mean that coolant will take longer to heat up and also eliminate temp spikes as system goes the periods of extreme loads and more moderate loads.
> 2. The air gap at top will eliminate any gas bubbles that form and thereby any potential loss of efficiencies.
> I remember you ! ..... didn't I catch you sleeping in my class that the Monday after Super Bowl Sunday ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would say because the laws of Thermodynamics do not allow for it. In order to see a temperature drop within a loop..... the thermal load of the hotter material must be transferred thru some type of heat exchange to another material..... by running hot water thru a rad and blowing air over the a very large area of fin metal you exchange the heat from the water to the metal to the air....the high transfer rate of the air, combined with the large surface area of the fins makes this quite effective despite air's poor heat transfer abilities.
> 
> water = good conductor
> copper = good conductor
> air = poor conductor
> Surface Area = very large die to closely spaced rad fins
> Transfer Volume of Receiving Medium = Huge (~60 cfm per fan)
> Delta T between Ambient air and Water = 10C+
> 
> There will be some thermal radiation which takes place from the thermal mass of water in the reservoir to the acrylic to the air. This will greatly depend on the relative wetted surface area of the res to the fluid volume of the res and where it is
> 
> water = good conductor
> acrylic = poor conductor
> air = poor conductor
> Surface Area = minimal on tube res, miniscule on bay res.system
> Transfer Volume of Receiving Medium = Almost nonexistent, especially w/ bay res
> Delta T between Case air and Water = 2-4C tops
> 
> The actual amount of thermal transfer will be minimal here because you don't have a good transfer medium in the acrylic, you don't have a lot of surface area compared with rad fins, you have a very small Delta T and you have minimal air transfer across the surface.
> 
> Where you will see a significant improvement however is in heat spiking .... whereas the average temperature in the loop would change little .... it will take much longer for the coolant to reach a steady state temperature. It will also cut down greatly on temperature spiking .... with a small amount of coolant in a loop, you can readily observe temps going up and down as the system experiences periods of very high loadings and more moderate loadings. The additional thermal mass will reduce this spikng and provide more stable temps.... instead of seeing temps say top out at 60C and go up and down...you will likely see it top out at something less and vary less.
> Well if the goal is to reduce temps, anyone working in the field of thermodynamics would certainly recommend that as the only "logical" solution as it's the only one supported by scientific principals. Think of it this way ....
> 
> Scenario 1 - I have an empty 5 gallon jug with an over flow pipe and a use a pump that pump 1 gpm into it, I can expect what flow rate to come down that over flow pipe once jug is full ?
> 
> Scenario 2 - I have an a swimming pool with an over flow pipe and a use a pump that pump 1 gpm into it, I can expect what flow rate to come down that over flow pipe once pool is full ?
> 
> Answer to both questions is 1 gpm ..... what comes in, must go out.....size of container it goes thru is immaterial once both are full.
> 
> No difference here..... you have 145 watts of heat coming out of say an overclocked haswell CPU .... it has one and only way to get out in any significant quantity and that is thru the rads. With the water, 1 gallon in must equal 1 gallon out .... with the heat, 1 watt in must equal 1 watt out and the small surface area provided by the res, couples with the minimal delta T inside the case and the minimal air movement inside the case means the addition of the res will have only a minimal effect on heat transfer.
> 
> When I run a Furmark test it can take well over an hour to reach a state of equilibrium, mainly due to the fact that a) I have 2 liters of coolant and b) the pump and fan curves increase speeds in response to increased temps. If I added another es, it would take longer to reach that state of equilibrium but it would still reach almost the exact same temperature.
> A pump has to be big enough to get the fluid thru the loop.....after that "going bigger" offers no improvement. I have 6 temp sensors in my loop and twin 35x pumps and I am speaking from hours of experimentation ....when I run at slower speeds I can have water entering my first rad at say 36C and exiting the second rad at 32C ..... increasing the pump speed to max I can drop that down to say 34.5 C going in and like 32.2C coming out. The over all effect is almost nil unless you get to a point where you drop below the threshold the rads need to be effective.
> The pump will respond no differently to the volume of the res, the location of the res or even the height of the res in a closed loop once flow rate has been established. In an open loop and at the initial startup of a closed loop, the height of the res is a factor. What will impact the pump is the number of fittings, the number of direction changes, the number and size of res inlets and outlets and any other restrictions which impede flow. In short, if you use a 100mm, 150mm, 250mm or 400mm of the same res with the same top / bottom, inlet arrangement and connections, the pump will respond identically to each one of them.
> 
> As for reservoirs brands .... to my view
> 
> Best Quality .... Borosilicate Glass models like the Photon and Aqualis followed by acrylic tube res's followed by bay res.
> 
> Installation / Accessories - Multiport top and fill tube recommended for best operation and flexibility
> 
> Tee Lines - Useful for draining if other options not available....in order of preference
> 
> -Quik-Disconnect on bottom outlet of lower rad
> -Valve and plug on bottom outlet of lower rad
> -Threaded Tee fitting with valve on pump inlet or discharge
> 
> Pump - M X M Thd Extender - Tee - Male Tube Connector to rest of loop
> 
> Off the branch of the Tee - M X M Thd Extender - Valve - Plug
> 
> In Drawer - Tube w/ Compression Fitting and male screw thread
> 
> Or instead the the valve & plug, off the Tee, use a Male Quick Disconnect .... and in drawer have the female disconnect , and compression connector to tube
> 
> A tee presents what is referred to as a "fitting loss" usually expressed as a "k value", the total loss in a loop is equal to the sum of all k factors x V^2 / 2g where V -= flow velocity and g is the coeffecient of gavity
> 
> K values can be found here
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/minor-loss-coefficients-pipes-d_626.html
> 
> Tee, Threaded, Dividing Line Flow 0.9
> Tee, Threaded , Dividing Branch Flow 2.0
> 
> Going here we can calculate velocity and loss thru the system
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/hazen-williams-water-d_797.html
> 
> Put in 4' tube, 140 friction coefficient, 1.0 gpm and 0.4" diameter (10mm) and we get
> 
> Actual Head Loss (ft H2O): 0.386
> Velocity (ft/s): 2.55
> 
> Your T fitting has a K value of 0.9 so ..... 0.9 x 2.55^2 / (2 x 32.2) = 0.09 ft H20 head loss.
> 
> Ya can look at ya pumo curve toi see what effect that might have if it bugs ya but, suffice to say the effect won't be noticeable.


Just what I said!!! just you know... more technical and stuff


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> How loud a cooler is, is 98% the fans used. So an h60 with loud/fast fans is the same as a midrange air with loud/fast fans. CLCs on their own are no quieter than air, just like a custom loop is no louder. Now, of course, a custom loop with quiet fans will out perform an air or clc with quiet fans, but that is heatsink performance, not that clc are inherently quieter


A cooler is as loud as what it is when you take it out of the box and install it....when you compare a Phanteks PH-TC-14 with an H100i you are comparing the Phanteks with the fan that it came in the box with with the Corsair unit with the fans it came with. Ya buy a boc....it says Antek Kuhler 620 on it.... how loud it is is exactly what you measure when you take the product out of the box and install it. And Antec Kuhler 620 is not "just a heat sink, cause when ya open the box, there is more than a heat sink in the box. The Antec Kuhler 620 is a "cooling system" which consists of a pump, a radiator and a fan which are designed to work together. If you take the fans off and replace it with something else, it is no longer an Antec Kuhler 620.....it's something else.
Quote:


> Thanks for the clarification on reservoirs, but I'm a bit confused what you mean 'open loop'. Is that one where its not 100% sealed off or air is in it? Because I plan to have my res only like 80% full so you see the water dripping down into the res.


Closed = not open to atmosphere
Open = Not open to atmosphere
Quote:


> I looked into how 90* fittings affect flow, it sounds like only if you got like more than 4 is it really an issue, and that a rad has a ton of such tight turns anyways.


We've covered that previously so no need to re-address ...especially in a "Mahems" thread.

Quote:


> I use alot of 90* fittings and it doesn't affect my flow that much running with two pumps.


You could have 100 and it wouldn't bother the 35x2.









Would love to have seen ya mount it on heat sink



Mine doesn't get any love hidden away under HD bay


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> I use alot of 90* fittings and it doesn't affect my flow that much running with two pumps. I love my phobya radiators too they are amazing, you should totally get em!
> 
> Anyways show off some of that Mayhems UV X1 Green!
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0103_zps79ed4c18.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0102_zps6c6ab4cb.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0105_zps61e8bef0.jpg.html


What res is that exactly? I like that no-cap look.

I'm really considering just making my own reservoir from acrylic... I'd just order a tube of acrylic from tapp, get some G1/4 threaded tap, and then cut simple circular caps from sheet acrylic, maybe with a hole saw (or maybe just buy them that way from tapp) and glue it together with weld-on.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> A cooler is as loud as what it is when you take it out of the box and install it....when you compare a Phanteks PH-TC-14 with an H100i you are comparing the Phanteks with the fan that it came in the box with with the Corsair unit with the fans it came with. Ya buy a boc....it says Antek Kuhler 620 on it.... how loud it is is exactly what you measure when you take the product out of the box and install it. And Antec Kuhler 620 is not "just a heat sink, cause when ya open the box, there is more than a heat sink in the box. The Antec Kuhler 620 is a "cooling system" which consists of a pump, a radiator and a fan which are designed to work together. If you take the fans off and replace it with something else, it is no longer an Antec Kuhler 620.....it's something else.


Come on dude, seriously? _That's the fans!_ Stock fans are almost always crap on sub-$80 heatsinks and even then, they are never better than some cheap yates or AP15s (and you can usually sell the stock fans for more than enough to buy AP15s, if not yates). _Fans, Fans, FANS!_

Phanteks comes pre-shipped with some great fans (though the i series Corsair CLC's come with SP120s, which are good fans too, though not as good as yates or ap15s for less). I always just sell off the stock fans, make a profit, and buy yates or ap15s. That noise means nothing.

How well a product does stock, out of box, is completely meaningless. A real comparison of heatsinks is comparing them with identical fans for an apples to apples comparison. I could care less that Phanteks charges you an extra $20 premium for high quality fans that still aren't as good as TY-140s, or that the CM 240m comes with awful fans but is sold $20 cheaper. Come on man. Out of box performance is extremely misleading, the Kuhler 620 is NOT a better cooler than, say, the H60, but because it comes with better fans, awful review sites claim it's a better CLC, when it's definitely not.

A _prime_ example of this is Coolermaster anything, like the Hyper 212 EVO. It comes with a 2.5kRPM blademaster, god awful fan, it's a terribly designed fan that's just been jacked up to a high RPM, and then when it cools more than an NH-D14 with low speed fans, crap review sites like tomshardware and frostytech claim the Evo is a better heatsink than an H80 or NH-D14. It's a joke!

Here's a better example - the original Corsair H70. It's an awful CLC, the worst CLC of all (of course, as a 120x25mm CLC, it's only 1-3C within every other 120x25mm clc made). However, Corsair bundles it with two high-speed, crappy fans. It's actually a worse CLC than the original Corsair H50 even, the asetek gen1, because it has less cooling tubes in the radiator (despite a higher FPI). Now, the rational decision is to buy the H50, sell off the crappy _low speed_ fan, and get yourself 2 yates, rather than getting the H70, which was sold for about $30 more. But it'd be ridiculous to claim the H70 is better than the H50, because in reality the H50 is a better CLC than the H70, just the H70 is overpriced and slapped in with two higher speed, crappier fans than the single, low speed fan of the H50.

The kuhler 620 is not a 'cooling system', it's an Asetek Gen2. The same exact asetek Gen2 that's sold as the H70, as the thermaltakes, etc, etc, etc. I really could care less what crappy, low quality fan these resellers decide to throw in and charge you 3x what the fan costs to buy on it's own.
Quote:


> . The Antec Kuhler 620 is a "cooling system" which consists of a pump, a radiator and a fan which are designed to work together. If you take the fans off and replace it with something else, it is no longer an Antec Kuhler 620.....it's something else


lololol... is that a joke? The cooler is not the fans. They are 2 entirely different products, different systems. I assure you, the 620 will work just fine with different fans. It is still a 620 if you replace the fans, as you should. I am not going to pay a premium for a crappy CLC slapped with low quality fans, I'd just as much resell or trash the fans, and put on some much better $4 yates. Why would I pay more for the 620, when I can get a _better_ cooler for less and just put the right fans on it, that'll outperform the 620 in an apples to apples comparison.


----------



## Belial

So I was like 'ugh, the phobya, i just want it in black and there's a weird 'black nickel' and i dont think that'll match with black, that's lame (i do know there's a matte black)' and going on my way, and then I realized this:



Then this, my motherboard:


Then this, my system, my paracording:












... it's the same gray.

Well I found my res. Now the choice is what size res.

Does water flow going straight up affect flow at all? Or is there a 'vacuum effect' going on that negates anything like that? I might just go for the biggest res and just be whatever. I'm actually going to build a custom acrylic full-length PSU shroud, so if I get a large res, I'll cut a custom hole in it to fit the res in it. Like this:

*SO:*
For Tubing Replacement on H60 2013 (~100ml of fluid from what I read) + H110 w/res

Phobya Tube Reservoir ~$30 Black Nickel (matches my grays!). Probably the large one, not 100% on size
Primochill Advanced LTR Clear 1/4x3/8"; 3/8x1/2"
90* Alphacool Deep Black Adaptors, Bitspower Black Barbs 1/4", Lamptron Black Clamps. Probably 2, maybe 3, depending how I do the looping (as outlined above)
Mayhem Pastel Blueberry Coolant
Mayhem X1 Blue Concentrate (Inhibitor)
Mayhem Blue Dye (for Darker blue than bluebbery, enough for ~1lt for enough for both closed loops)

Expect to pay a little more than $60, not sure on vendor(s) yet.

Better picture of what the build should be like complete:








That's 2-3 90* fittings depending on how much tube will bend on that route from res to rad. I believe I will have it hidden as well, for the most part, behind the res or rad itself.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Come on dude, seriously? _That's the fans!_ Stock fans are almost always crap on sub-$80 heatsinks and even then, they are never better than some cheap yates or AP15s (and you can usually sell the stock fans for more than enough to buy AP15s, if not yates). _Fans, Fans, FANS!_
> 
> Phanteks comes pre-shipped with some great fans (though the i series Corsair CLC's come with SP120s, which are good fans too, though not as good as yates or ap15s for less). I always just sell off the stock fans, make a profit, and buy yates or ap15s. That noise means nothing.
> 
> The kuhler 620 is not a 'cooling system', it's an Asetek Gen2. The same exact asetek Gen2 that's sold as the H70, as the thermaltakes, etc, etc, etc. I really could care less what crappy, low quality fan these resellers decide to throw in and charge you 3x what the fan costs to buy on it's own.
> lololol... is that a joke? The cooler is not the fans. They are 2 entirely different products, different systems. I assure you, the 620 will work just fine with different fans. It is still a 620 if you replace the fans, as you should. I am not going to pay a premium for a crappy CLC slapped with low quality fans, I'd just as much resell or trash the fans, and put on some much better $4 yates. Why would I pay more for the 620, when I can get a _better_ cooler for less and just put the right fans on it, that'll outperform the 620 in an apples to apples comparison.


Dude..... if it says Antec 620 on a box than an Antec 620 is *"by definition"* what is in the box. No one sells an Antec 620 heat sink, they sell Antec 620 Cooling Systems

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011
Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK 140mm UFB (Updraft Floating Balance) *CPU Cooler*

The product is described as a "CPU Cooler" ... it is not called a CPU Heatsink
Quote:


> The kuhler 620 is not a 'cooling system', it's an Asetek Gen2


Dude... have you ever bothered to even READ the label. It certainly is a "cooling system", it says so right on the box.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3KX16D3768
*Antec Kuhler H2O 620 Liquid Cooling System*

You can't just reinvent the world to fit your own definitions. The 620 is a unit with which I am very familiar....it is an Antec designed unit, manufactured by Asetek. It very much is NOT the exact same thing as the Corsair C70 and a little bit of research will show you quite plainly.

http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=694&Itemid=62
Quote:


> Since Corsair popularized their version of Asetek's "LCLC" (low cost liquid cooling) system back in 2009, it seems that every time you look, another variation on the theme appears. All-in-one CPU water coolers have become popular and even mainstream, .... The first generation of these coolers were virtually clones, with manufacturers doing little other than labeling Asetek's design, *but we're starting to see some innovation in the area, and Antec's Kühler H20 620 steps into the market with its own unique take on the concept*.
> 
> Inside the box are the neatly arranged components...*which are the pump and radiator assembly, a 120x25mm fan, an installation manual, and mounting brackets and screws.*
> 
> If you're familiar with other Asetek-sourced liquid coolers, you'll notice two things different about the Antec Kühler: first, there are two connectors wired to the pump, and second, the hoses connecting the pump to the radiator are thicker, soft rubber hoses rather than the smaller, stiffer hoses used on other coolers.
> 
> The Antec Kühler H2O 620's pump is the standard Asetek design: a small, flat pump with notched edges and swivel connectors for the hoses. *But there are two differences: the pump has an extra three-pin connector to control the cooler's fan, and the swivel mounts and hoses are significantly larger than the ones used on other Asetek-sourced coolers.*
> 
> The *Antec's hoses are soft and flexible*, unlike the stiff, springy hoses used on other coolers. At about 13" long, they're also 1"-3" longer than the hoses I've seen on other coolers.
> 
> *After Corsair's H50 hit the market, its success led to many other companies offering their own variations on the theme, if by "variations" you mean "label". Even Corsair's own H70, with its double-thickness radiator, is simply a version of Asetek's LC570 OEM cooler.*
> 
> *Antec's Kühler H2O 620 is (so far) unique: it's not listed as an OEM product by Asetek and Asetek posts no specifications on it, instead merely providing a link to Antec's product page.*


And as for the Antec's performance ,,,,as you can see here, it did pretty darm well against the competition when all used the same Delta high speed fan
http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=694&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=4

Thermaltake Jing 69.7 +11.0
Corsair H50 68.1 +9.4
Coolit Vantage A.L.C. 67.8 +9.1
Corsair H70 64.7 +6.0
Coolit ECO A.L.C. 64.3 +5.6
Cooler Master V6 GT 59.5 +0.8
Prolimatech Super Mega 59.4 +0.7
Antec Kühler H2O 620 58.7 +0.0
Thermalright Venomous X 58.0 -0.7

Certainly kicked the H70s tail (by a whopping 6C) .... now how in the world or reason could that even be remotely possible if .... as you claim .... they are the exact same unit, with the exact same fans ???

Quote:


> I am not going to pay a premium for a crappy CLC


To be perfectly honest, I have yet to see any other kind. If you are going to add water inside a PC, ya oughta be able to get some benefit to offset the risk

1. Significantly better thermal performance .... haven't seen it
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/corsair_h100_hydro_series_extreme_performance_liquid_cpu_cooler,14.html

2. Significantly lower noise .... instead they sound like vacuum cleaners
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/03/12/swiftech-h220-vs-corsair-h100i-noise-testing/

3. Present no inherent design flaws like bare aluminum components

4. Not require the purchaser to throw away components that they paid for in order to get acceptable use out of the product....like maybe sit in the same room w/o ear protection....or carry on a conversation on the phone.

5. And when ya do that, ya left with performance equal to what you cuda bought for 1 third of half what ta spend.

5. Not do this

http://www.overclock.net/t/1440506/my-corsair-h60-exploded-water-explosion
http://www.overclock.net/t/1375261/my-corsair-h100-leaked-on-my-new-680-gtx
http://www.overclock.net/t/1450289/corsair-h50-leaked-how-to-clean-up
http://www.overclock.net/t/1396191/corsair-h100-leak
http://www.overclock.net/t/1300669/corsair-h100-leaked-onto-my-brand-new-graphics-card-and-motherboard
http://www.overclock.net/t/1349406/corsair-h70-leaking

If a product as sold is not "acceptable" as it comes outta the box I see no reason to buy the product. It's like raving about McDonald's Hamburger when and when ya buy one, ya gotta replace the bun with one that isn't stale and replace the burger with something ya not afraid to eat.

What exactly are you looking to get out of these CLC coolers ? After you change the fans, their performance drops....no way around it..... most of the noise comes not from the fans themselves but the air rushing thru radiators....so the only way to reduce noise is to reduce air flow which invariably must lead to a drop in performance .... so after a $130 on the H100i and another $30 for fans, you can cool ya CPU almost as good perhaps as a $50 air cooler.

Now if ya argument is ya just gonna use parts and make something better, you **can** just buy the parts.... you can buy a better radiator that doesn't have aluminum in it. You can buy pumps, you can buy fans. All the CLC suppliers have done for you is connect a pair of tubes. In exchange ya get stuck with components that if bought individually, you probably would have bought different ones.

Unless ya doing an ITX build where ya don't have room for a Phanteks or Silver Arrow and don't want to be bothered with a XSPC or Swiftech kit cause ya have to connect the two tubes yaself, I really see no place for a CLC .

BTW, wanted to say ....nice job on the sleeving and color scheme works well

and .....again, in a closed loop, pump doesn't know if ya loop went straight up to the roof and came back down....or if it went to the basement and came back up..... once it goes over the top and get back there is 0 static head .... the only resistance to pump flow is friction and restriction losses.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> So I was like 'ugh, the phobya, i just want it in black and there's a weird 'black nickel' and i dont think that'll match with black, that's lame (i do know there's a matte black)' and going on my way, and then I realized this:
> 
> 
> 
> Then this, my motherboard:
> 
> 
> Then this, my system, my paracording:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... it's the same gray.
> 
> Well I found my res. Now the choice is what size res.
> 
> Does water flow going straight up affect flow at all? Or is there a 'vacuum effect' going on that negates anything like that? I might just go for the biggest res and just be whatever. I'm actually going to build a custom acrylic full-length PSU shroud, so if I get a large res, I'll cut a custom hole in it to fit the res in it. Like this:
























do it up!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> So I was like 'ugh, the phobya, i just want it in black and there's a weird 'black nickel' and i dont think that'll match with black, that's lame (i do know there's a matte black)' and going on my way, and then I realized this:
> 
> 
> 
> Then this, my motherboard:
> 
> 
> Then this, my system, my paracording:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... it's the same gray.
> 
> Well I found my res. Now the choice is what size res.
> 
> Does water flow going straight up affect flow at all? Or is there a 'vacuum effect' going on that negates anything like that? I might just go for the biggest res and just be whatever. I'm actually going to build a custom acrylic full-length PSU shroud, so if I get a large res, I'll cut a custom hole in it to fit the res in it. Like this:
> 
> *SO:*
> For Tubing Replacement on H60 2013 (~100ml of fluid from what I read) + H110 w/res
> 
> Phobya Tube Reservoir ~$30 Black Nickel (matches my grays!). Probably the large one, not 100% on size
> Primochill Advanced LTR Clear 1/4x3/8"; 3/8x1/2"
> 90* Alphacool Deep Black Adaptors, Bitspower Black Barbs 1/4", Lamptron Black Clamps. Probably 2, maybe 3, depending how I do the looping (as outlined above)
> Mayhem Pastel Blueberry Coolant
> Mayhem X1 Blue Concentrate (Inhibitor)
> Mayhem Blue Dye (for Darker blue than bluebbery, enough for ~1lt for enough for both closed loops)
> 
> Expect to pay a little more than $60, not sure on vendor(s) yet.
> 
> Better picture of what the build should be like complete:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's 2-3 90* fittings depending on how much tube will bend on that route from res to rad. I believe I will have it hidden as well, for the most part, behind the res or rad itself.


The only change I would make in how your loop is run is: YOUR picture shows - CPU/pump-->Res-->radiator-->Back to CPU/pump, MY change would be - CPU/pump-->radiator-->Top of reservoir-->Back to CPU/pump.

Otherwise I say go for it!! And I would obviously fill to reservoir to within an inch of the top personally, to keep bubbles from being introduced into the coolant by the flow.


----------



## Belial

Can you explain why? I still dont understand also, if my res or waterline or anything is supposed to be above/below the pump, if that makes a difference.

If I were to go Pump/Block - Rad - Res - Pump/block, the problem is I'd have a big tube crossing over the motherboard diagonally and awkwardly. I could maybe do it by putting a 90* fittings, so it goes up and over...

Just...I'd really appreciate if you guys explained more, because I dont understand.

Is the bubbles issue a big deal? I cant imagine that bubbles would reach the bottom of some big 10" reservoir if it was only half full, thats still a good 5" which is larger than most res. I think I'll probably have it around 1/2 to 3/4 full. I mean we'll see.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Can you explain why? I still dont understand also, if my res or waterline or anything is supposed to be above/below the pump, if that makes a difference.
> 
> If I were to go Pump/Block - Rad - Res - Pump/block, the problem is I'd have a big tube crossing over the motherboard diagonally and awkwardly. I could maybe do it by putting a 90* fittings, so it goes up and over...
> 
> Just...I'd really appreciate if you guys explained more, because I dont understand.
> 
> Is the bubbles issue a big deal? I cant imagine that bubbles would reach the bottom of some big 10" reservoir if it was only half full, thats still a good 5" which is larger than most res. I think I'll probably have it around 1/2 to 3/4 full. I mean we'll see.


The bubbles will easily make it to the bottom of the res, I have a 400mm res that's filled and the bubbles will still make to bottom during the initial de-aeration , but they clear out really quick because I don't allow the fluid to drop at all or make any splashing when it comes into the res, you would be GENERATING bubbles and possibly foam from having the fluid drop so far to the liquid inside. I don't know WHY you wouldn't fill the reservoir all the way, if you don't want to fill it all the way, get a smaller dang res.

As to why I would change the flow path, you should ALWAYS want the reservoir feeding into the pump, so the pump has a full steady column of water just before it to feed from. Just look anywhere on this site and you will see others making that same suggestion for the same reasons. The reason to have res/water in res higher than pump is to make it so the pump doesn't have to PULL the water uphill, the water above the pump will keep pressure on fluid all the way to the pump. And since your pump ain't all that great to begin with, help it as much as you can!


----------



## Belial

Because the dripping is kewl. I'll play around, if I find the full res looks better I can always just do that too. But woulnd't a larger res be bigger for dripping, so there's a larger gap of water between the outlet and water level?

I have looked for hours on end on loop ordering, but the problem is a lot of it is not relevant, they say stuff like 'Block -> Res -> Pump -> Rad' which doesnt take into account the pump/block being integrated, nor does these posts explain the reasoning for the order. So does the water _line_ just need to be above the pump, or what? What if I had the res below the pump, but like my rad's highest point was above the pump? Or is that not possible?
Quote:


> It's like raving about McDonald's Hamburger when and when ya buy one, ya gotta replace the bun with one that isn't stale and replace the burger with something ya not afraid to eat.


A better analogy would be this: I would buy McDonald's every day if they had prime rib as the meat, and I would gladly replace the stale buns with higher quality buns when people are willing to pay you $15 for the stale buns and the higher quality buns only cost $5.

IE - Yes, just sell of the stock corsair or antec or whatever fans (any fan sells for at least $5, but big name brands like corsair/antec always fetch $10+, and PWM always fetches a premium too), and buy some cheap $5 yates which are better than almost every other fan out there (certainly the stock fans). Or just throw the stock fans in the trash, or in the closet when you resell the cooler, whatever. Why would you use the crappy stock fans.

Your comments really don't make sense, I mean, OMG THE INTEL CPUS SUCK, THE STOCK COOLER IS PART OF THE PACKAGE, WHEN YOU REPLACE THE COOLER ITS NO LONGER AN INTEL SYSTEM, WHY WOULD YOU REPLACE THE COOLER? THAT'S LIKE HAVING TO EAT CHEEZEBURGERS AT MCDONALDS AND HAVING TO REPLACE THE BUNS EVERY TIME, GEE THAT SUCKS, INTEL SUCKS. WHY ARE YOU USING CUSTOM WATER? THAT STUPID. WHEN YOU REPLACE THE COOLER ITS NO LONGER AN INTEL SYSTEM.
Quote:


> Dude... have you ever bothered to even READ the label. It certainly is a "cooling system", it says so right on the box.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3KX16D3768
> Antec Kuhler H2O 620 Liquid Cooling System
> 
> You can't just reinvent the world to fit your own definitions. The 620 is a unit with which I am very familiar....it is an Antec designed unit, manufactured by Asetek. It very much is NOT the exact same thing as the Corsair C70 and a little bit of research will show you quite plainly.


Get off my back on grammar, it's clear what i meant. You forgot a period, therefore you're the one who's wrong.









Good job citing an outdated benchmarkreviews review. Everyone knows they're a joke for thermal reviews, right up there with frostytech. You link _six_ instances of _three generations outdated_ CLCs leaking. Like man, you're really got me!

As I originally said, H70 sucks. You're pretty much proving my point. Why buy the crappy H70, just get a Kuhler 620 or H50 for half the price, replace the fans, and you got a better cooler than the H70 for less.
Quote:


> To be perfectly honest, I have yet to see any other kind. If you are going to add water inside a PC, ya oughta be able to get some benefit to offset the risk


Don't be so delusional. Just because the Hyper 212+ is a low performance heatsink, it's still an amazing value at $19 and it's more than most people need. Buy what you need, not waste your money. Custom water really isn't used for performance, it's more for aesthetics. I'm using an H110 and even with one of the hottest CPUs in the world (i7-4770k), I stay a frosty 10C below max with a 1.5v overclock. Pretty sure even you don't put taht much on your cooler, and most people don't even go over 1.3v on haswell. A CLC or air is more than most people need.

As far as 'risk', there is no 'risk' of leaking any more than custom. Which is pretty dang low. If anything, a CLC is less risk because you are insured for liability (there are tons of people who've submitted liability claims with corsair, antec, etc, and every one of them was honored - except one guy with an h50, because you know, any CLC over 3 years isn't going to be covered anymore).
Quote:


> Unless ya doing an ITX build where ya don't have room for a Phanteks or Silver Arrow and don't want to be bothered with a XSPC or Swiftech kit cause ya have to connect the two tubes yaself, I really see no place for a CLC .


Sure, it all's about price. A phanteks for $80? Rip-off, garbage. A 240mm CLC for $40? Best cooler in the world. An H110 for $120? Throw it in the trash can. For $90? You'd be an idiot not to buy one (if in the market).

There's zero difference between any of these coolers. The price/performance determines _everything_, and accessories like fans are often garbage just thrown it and highly upcharged. You see it with cases too, one case with single fan is cheap, second case is 'pro' version with 2 fans and $20 more expensive. Just goofy.
Quote:


> BTW, wanted to say ....nice job on the sleeving and color scheme works well
> 
> and .....again, in a closed loop, pump doesn't know if ya loop went straight up to the roof and came back down....or if it went to the basement and came back up..... once it goes over the top and get back there is 0 static head .... the only resistance to pump flow is friction and restriction losses.


Thanks. This is very helpful! Any 'drop' is negated by the fall to get there in the in the first place. /rep

What is friction though (i know what it is, but in this context)?


----------



## rickyman0319

what pastel do I need to make gold? I have yellow and orange dye.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> What res is that exactly? I like that no-cap look.
> 
> I'm really considering just making my own reservoir from acrylic... I'd just order a tube of acrylic from tapp, get some G1/4 threaded tap, and then cut simple circular caps from sheet acrylic, maybe with a hole saw (or maybe just buy them that way from tapp) and glue it together with weld-on.


It's a Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 - Full Clear Acrylic Version.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Because the dripping is kewl. I'll play around, if I find the full res looks better I can always just do that too. But woulnd't a larger res be bigger for dripping, so there's a larger gap of water between the outlet and water level?
> 
> I have looked for hours on end on loop ordering, but the problem is a lot of it is not relevant, they say stuff like 'Block -> Res -> Pump -> Rad' which doesnt take into account the pump/block being integrated, nor does these posts explain the reasoning for the order. So does the water _line_ just need to be above the pump, or what? What if I had the res below the pump, but like my rad's highest point was above the pump? Or is that not possible?
> A better analogy would be this: I would buy McDonald's every day if they had prime rib as the meat, and I would gladly replace the stale buns with higher quality buns when people are willing to pay you $15 for the stale buns and the higher quality buns only cost $5.
> 
> IE - Yes, just sell of the stock corsair or antec or whatever fans (any fan sells for at least $5, but big name brands like corsair/antec always fetch $10+, and PWM always fetches a premium too), and buy some cheap $5 yates which are better than almost every other fan out there (certainly the stock fans). Or just throw the stock fans in the trash, or in the closet when you resell the cooler, whatever. Why would you use the crappy stock fans.
> 
> Your comments really don't make sense, I mean, OMG THE INTEL CPUS SUCK, THE STOCK COOLER IS PART OF THE PACKAGE, WHEN YOU REPLACE THE COOLER ITS NO LONGER AN INTEL SYSTEM, WHY WOULD YOU REPLACE THE COOLER? THAT'S LIKE HAVING TO EAT CHEEZEBURGERS AT MCDONALDS AND HAVING TO REPLACE THE BUNS EVERY TIME, GEE THAT SUCKS, INTEL SUCKS. WHY ARE YOU USING CUSTOM WATER? THAT STUPID. WHEN YOU REPLACE THE COOLER ITS NO LONGER AN INTEL SYSTEM.
> Get off my back on grammar, it's clear what i meant. You forgot a period, therefore you're the one who's wrong.


Ok, first, real quick, if the fluid is just "dripping" in, the pump is not fast enough, the water should be flowing into the reservoir, and the whole point to res above the pump, or res fluid above the pump is to help the pump out with keeping a solid column of water for it to feed from. In a radiator, there are to many channels running up and down to have it be an effective source for the pump.

You asked for any thoughts, I have given many, I will not criticize the reasons for what your doing, only add my two cents as to why I would recommend doing something a certain way. If you don't want to do that, that is fine, they are just my informed opinions, I'm only remarking as to why things are run the way they are from my experiences, and from advice from others here. Having built water cooled computers for over a decade now, I have found what seems to work the best for the systems I've built, and in all of them, I finally put the reservoir feeding directly to the pump to HELP the pump do it's job, regardless of the pump being part of the block, the basic parameters of fluid flow still apply.

In the early days of liquid cooling, the pumps were crap, I burnt out many a pump before I realized there were things I could do to make the pump NOT have to work as hard, and having a constant pool of fluid for it to draw from was one of the biggest.

So even if there are other diagrams people have put that show a pump separate from the CPU block(which does NOT matter in this case, just look at the layout of the PUMP, you know the pump is where the block is), they will almost always have the pump as part of the reservoir (not an option for you, your pump is part of CPU block), or they have a separate pump the is below the water level of the reservoir, they aren't just doing that "because", we do things in the liquid cooling world because there have been others out there who have done both ways and found it to be beneficial to the system as a whole.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Because the dripping is kewl. I'll play around, if I find the full res looks better I can always just do that too. But woulnd't a larger res be bigger for dripping, so there's a larger gap of water between the outlet and water level?


Ya want some air gap in a res so as to allow a space for thermal expansion of the fluid....some rez's even offer a pressure equalizer for this purpose (i.e. aqualis) . But 5 inches is a bit much. When I was on DW, with about an inch at the top the bubbles did go almost all the way to the bottom ... maybe an inch above .... but never got sucked into the pump. When I switched to a multiport top and a fill tube the bubbles were eliminated in the entirety but frankly I miss them .... if it wasn't so much work I prolly wuda tried it w/o the fill tube.

With many coolants which have "water wetting" capabilities which greatly reduce the bubbling effect ... another reason I didn't try out switching back as the pastel coolants seem to have such an effect.
Quote:


> I have looked for hours on end on loop ordering, but the problem is a lot of it is not relevant, they say stuff like 'Block -> Res -> Pump -> Rad' which doesnt take into account the pump/block being integrated, nor does these posts explain the reasoning for the order. So does the water _line_ just need to be above the pump, or what? What if I had the res below the pump, but like my rad's highest point was above the pump? Or is that not possible?


Peeps often take advice as gospel w/o understanding the reasoning behind it ... the res above pump thing comes from the initial filling of the loop .... if ya start the pump dry, it's gonna come to an early death....having the res above the pump pretty much assures, (tho never underestimate the ability of idiots or peeps not paying attention), that the pump won't go dry. But, yes if you can provide an alternate means of making sure that you always have a flooded suction, then this will suffice to protect the pump,
Quote:


> A better analogy would be this: I would buy McDonald's every day if they had prime rib as the meat, and I would gladly replace the stale buns with higher quality buns when people are willing to pay you $15 for the stale buns and the higher quality buns only cost $5


.

Except that analogy doesn't fit .... McDonalds doesn't have prime rib burgers just like Corsair doesn't have a decent rad ... so now ya bought ya Big mac and ya got half way decent replacement buns (fans) but they are still on a crappy burger (cheap aluminum radiator) with crappy fixins (stiff unflexible tubes)

The Phanteks Cooler w/o the Phanteks fans is just a hunk of metal.... it's the their fans that make the cooler stand out which is why when tested individually, they sweep the floor w/ the competition.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html
Quote:


> Get off my back on grammar, it's clear what i meant. You forgot a period, therefore you're the one who's wrong.


Yes it was very clear what you meant ..... your just got called out on the lack of facts supporting your argument and a preponderance of facts to the contrary. I made no comments on your grammar..... Making blatantly false claims is not bad grammar..... So first let's go over some definitions

Grammar is basically sentence structure or how words and their component parts combine to form sentences.... I never commented on your sentence structure.

What I commented on was your false claim that the Antec 620 was not a "cooling system" when it clearly says it is a "cooling system" right on the box....that would fall under "reading comprehension"

"System n. noun - A group of interacting, interrelated, or interdependent elements forming a complex whole."

A pump, a rad, a fan, a conttoller ...clearly meets the dictionary definition

What I also commented on was your false claim that it was no different than a H70.... which was clearly proven otherwise by the review quoted.... that would fall under many categories but not bad grammar.

What's wrong with the Intel stock cooler.... it serves the purpose for which it is advertised and sold. It can effectively run the CPU at the advertised specifications. It does what it's advertising says it does.

The CLC's OTOH do not do what they makers marketing schpeil's claim and reviewers have called them out on it repeatedly.

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/corsair_h100_hydro_series_extreme_performance_liquid_cpu_cooler,16.html
Quote:


> At 2600RPM, the H100 isn't a quiet unit at all and similarly at 2000RPM, it can still be quite intrusive. In terms of performance per noise, high end air coolers from Phanteks, Noctua and Thermalright still reign supreme, *contrary to Corsair's own marketing*. Like other ALC units, the H100 relies too much on high RPM fans for its performance when the goal of water cooling is generally for extreme performance at low noise levels.


----------



## stickg1

Belial you manage to turn every thread in which you post into an argument. The bickering is not necessary in any thread, let alone in the Mayhem's product thread. Take this elsewhere please. I'm sure there's a whole thread of people that mod their CLC's and AIO's. Discuss it there.


----------



## Radmanhs

if i add uv clear blue dye to pastel ice white, will it still become "uv reactive"


----------



## rickyman0319

what color of pastel equal gold color or uv gold?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Belial you manage to turn every thread in which you post into an argument. The bickering is not necessary in any thread, let alone in the Mayhem's product thread. Take this elsewhere please. I'm sure there's a whole thread of people that mod their CLC's and AIO's. Discuss it there.


Yes, I have brought the inapplicability to the thread up twice now..... I felt I pretty much exhausted as far as I'm willing to help in the last post.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yes, I have brought the inapplicability to the thread up twice now..... I felt I pretty much exhausted as far as I'm willing to help in the last post.


He did this in about 4 or 5 threads that I frequent over the past 6 months. He comes in, asks for advice, then picks it apart and tries to belittle everyone. Check his slough of informative guides in his signature. Clearly an expert!


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Belial you manage to turn every thread in which you post into an argument. The bickering is not necessary in any thread, let alone in the Mayhem's product thread. Take this elsewhere please. I'm sure there's a whole thread of people that mod their CLC's and AIO's. Discuss it there.


There's no bickering here just a little bit of back and forth going on, and I think it's to the benefit of everyone here. JackNaylor has given a ton of great information that I was seeking, even if we are disagreeing about stuff. I don't think either of us care too much anyways about the OT discussion, it's just for fun.

There is no current CLC thread. I know you think I never search anything and constantly tell me to go search, but I've started over 20 threads related to this topic in multiple message boards. Of course, there isn't 20 threads asking about what dye to use on OCN, but I've got an additive thread, a modding clc block thread, I post in someone else's acrylic thread... it's hard to get responses, and the feedback I've gotten here in the last few days has been more helpful than what I've solicited in about a month over 4 different message boards and over 20 threads. It's just impossible to get replies sometimes.

To be more specific, the OCN Water Gallery had no clue, both H50 mod guides were dead and I got no responses in either, the 620 mod thread is dead, the 620 club tried to be helpful but didn't know, the corsair club just had no idea what I was doing (they thought it was cool, but couldnt offer any help), I posted an additive-mixed-metals question thread here and I actually got some good replies, but not really any help there (more off topic but relevant, cool discussion than anything), I posted about modding my clc block and I just got zero replies there (yea modding forums here are pretty dead, the modders seem to not actually hang out there), I got great replies in the PSU forum in regards to forming acrylic (which is somewhat relevant to what I'm doing...), I got no replies in my build log in regards to this mod, I got no help in my 'how much fluid in a clc' thread, i got no replies in my 'how to replace the tubing an add a res' thread, I got no replies in the gigabyte mobo club.

I got no (helpful) replies when cross posted to AT (though i got encouragement, which surprised me considering it's AT), I got a lot of help actually at the corsair forum (after posting a ton of times and finally getting traction after making another thread) but now it's kinda dead and well, I really didn't end up taking their advice because I found better advice here (in this club), I got a lot of help at the sparkfun forums but that's a bit irrelevant, not exactly this.

So yea. I'm sorry, but this is what works. Clubs are much more informal, and people tend to be way more helpful to what will soon be a future member of the club, and people always want to see their favorite product used in a new and exciting way. So people won't care in the OCN water thread because they'll say 'pfft, anything less than a $500 custom loop is lame', but the people in the Mayhem club will say 'Wow, your using Mayhems for something _other_ than a $500 loop, how interesting! Let's encourage you to do it so we can see what it looks like even if it results in a big puddle of water:devil-smi'.

So as always, thanks for your support stickg1.
Quote:


> if i add uv clear blue dye to pastel ice white, will it still become "uv reactive"


Kind of. UV dyes have, well, UV in them, but it's going to be drowned out by being mixed with other fluids, especially the pastels. Basically, the answer for what you're doing is 'no' because you'd have to add a ton of fluid. I think there's some 'clear UV' mixes you could probably add though, but 'clear' is always just blue (just less blue), so if you add that it'll get a blue tinge. Don't expect some bright, super UV pastel though, but some uv clear fluid you might be able to add enough to make a small difference.
Quote:


> Yes, I have brought the inapplicability to the thread up twice now..... I felt I pretty much exhausted as far as I'm willing to help in the last post.


I'm sorry you feel that way, you've been quite helpful and I was going to offer you some free stuff for the tips. I mean if you still are interested just PM me....

I don't understand why some people are just so snobby and don't want to help. It's a club, who cares, there's a million 'LOOK AT MY X' threads, why don't we have a discussion that's _never_ been discussed before so future people can use it for reference? Isn't that what we're really trying to do here, to break new ground and find out everything we can?

I think it's also important to note that when I do things, I always post tons of pics, I always update constantly, and follow through to completion, and I _always_ post a How-To or Belial's Comprehensive Guide so that others can learn. Everything I learn, I always compile and give back to the community.

See: Sig.


----------



## stickg1

Hehe, e-hug?


----------



## Belial

Sure









I promise, I will post twice as many pics as I've asked questions.

I'm just a thorough individual, I guess you could say I'd rather spend a week to pick the absolute best product for value and performance, even if it's just a $5 coolant or $2 fitting clamp, then buy it right away and pay $1 more or get the 2nd best. A bit irrational when put that way, but I'm in no hurry and I want to do it right, so I have all the time in the world, and I want to truly understand what I'm doing.



Shopping list at the moment. Adds up quickly...


----------



## stickg1

I know, your abrasive debating tactics have actually grown on me.

I'm browsing a couple forums' marketplaces currently trying to piece together a custom loop for my current build. I wish I could afford to buy it all new, it would cost about $500. I really only want to spend like $300.



Now I was thinking about just getting that Primochill Advanced LRT Yellow tubing, but should I get yellow dye for the water too? Or should I use some Pastel? I quite liked my White Pastel in my last build. Or should I go clear tubing and yellow pastel? I plan to keep the trim in my case painted yellow as to match the motherboard. Opinions?

Also I'm looking for a nice pump with a res fixed right on top of it for less than $130. I'm having a bit of trouble though, I have about 12" of free space at the front of the case so I guess size isn't an issue.


----------



## Ragsters

How long after initial fill up should I wait until I add some drops of Biocide Extreme into the mix?


----------



## M3TAl

Should I test my loop with just distilled before going Pastel (keep in mind this will be my first loop ever, trying to take all precautions etc.)? Obviously the system will have to be drained afterwards which shouldn't be too difficult since I planned a drain valve for the loop. If I was going to have a catastrophic leak or other major problem wouldn't it be better to be using just water? Easier to clean up and no waste of the Pastel if there's a bad leak...

If I was going to test on just distilled first, for say anywhere from 6-24 hours, is a biocide or anything really needed for that short period of time? I do have a kill coil.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> How long after initial fill up should I wait until I add some drops of Biocide Extreme into the mix?


If it's with X1, XT-1, or Pastel then never. If it's with distilled, every month test pH and add it accordingly. Never drop below 6.3 pH if possible.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If it's with X1, XT-1, or Pastel then never. If it's with distilled, every month test pH and add it accordingly. Never drop below 6.3 pH if possible.


How can I get such an accurate reading like 6.3? I just have those included test strips.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> How can I get such an accurate reading like 6.3? I just have those included test strips.


Just reference it to the back of the bottle, it should be accurate enough. Test it, and if it's above that pop in a drop or two, run the loop for a few mins so it mixes up properly, then test again.

Copper sulphate based biocides are a pain, that's why I switched to X1.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I know, your abrasive debating tactics have actually grown on me.
> 
> I'm browsing a couple forums' marketplaces currently trying to piece together a custom loop for my current build. I wish I could afford to buy it all new, it would cost about $500. I really only want to spend like $300.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I was thinking about just getting that Primochill Advanced LRT Yellow tubing, but should I get yellow dye for the water too? Or should I use some Pastel? I quite liked my White Pastel in my last build. Or should I go clear tubing and yellow pastel? I plan to keep the trim in my case painted yellow as to match the motherboard. Opinions?
> 
> Also I'm looking for a nice pump with a res fixed right on top of it for less than $130. I'm having a bit of trouble though, I have about 12" of free space at the front of the case so I guess size isn't an issue.


I've always felt colored tubing looks tacky. If you do go the tubing route, it's completely opaque so any dye wont be noticeable through it.

MCP35x has an option to add a fairly nice pump top reservoir, but it used to have issues with microfractures, though they may have been fixed by now.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11740/ex-pmp-109/Swiftech_MCP35X_12v_PWM_Controlled_Water_Pump_-_Black.html


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Can you explain why? I still dont understand also, if my res or waterline or anything is supposed to be above/below the pump, if that makes a difference.
> 
> If I were to go Pump/Block - Rad - Res - Pump/block, the problem is I'd have a big tube crossing over the motherboard diagonally and awkwardly. I could maybe do it by putting a 90* fittings, so it goes up and over...
> 
> Just...I'd really appreciate if you guys explained more, because I dont understand.
> 
> Is the bubbles issue a big deal? I cant imagine that bubbles would reach the bottom of some big 10" reservoir if it was only half full, thats still a good 5" which is larger than most res. I think I'll probably have it around 1/2 to 3/4 full. I mean we'll see.


You want the res before the pump, not only do to performance gains which you likely won't see in your case, but because of the bearing in most all liquid cooling pumps these days. It uses an open ceramic bearing, which uses coolant to lubricate it. If it runs without water, or too much bubbles go through it, the ceramic bearing will scratch the graphite on the impellers contacts which will destroy the pump.

It's a safety concern over a performance concern.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> if i add uv clear blue dye to pastel ice white, will it still become "uv reactive"


Yes you can, but you'd need a ton of dye. It would be better to just buy this, which is the exact same thing as your suggesting but it's just done in house.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21327/ex-liq-371/Mayhems_Pastel_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_UV_White.html#blank


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Should I test my loop with just distilled before going Pastel (keep in mind this will be my first loop ever, trying to take all precautions etc.)? Obviously the system will have to be drained afterwards which shouldn't be too difficult since I planned a drain valve for the loop. If I was going to have a catastrophic leak or other major problem wouldn't it be better to be using just water? Easier to clean up and no waste of the Pastel if there's a bad leak...
> 
> If I was going to test on just distilled first, for say anywhere from 6-24 hours, is a biocide or anything really needed for that short period of time? I do have a kill coil.


I ran plain distilled for my initial leak test, then drained and re-filled my loop with Mayhems Pastel Ice White, for the same reasons. I certainly wasn't worried about not using any biocide for the two days that I ran distilled. Although I flushed out the rads., etc. with distilled before assembling the loop, I felt that running the distilled also helped to provide an extra flush-out of the loop before filling it with the Pastel.


----------



## M3TAl

Sounds perfect then







. Already flushed the rads with distilled and giving the entire loop a flush wouldn't hurt either. Can't wait to finally have a full on custom loop







.

Only thing that really sucks is apparently one of my PWM fans is bad... I've been testing out two Swiftech PWM splitters daisy chained together and out of 10 Cougar Vortex fans one of them makes a clicking noise but only on PWM. When voltage controlled on a fan controller it's perfectly fine. All 9 of the other fans make no weird noises, just that one fan







.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Sounds perfect then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Already flushed the rads with distilled and giving the entire loop a flush wouldn't hurt either. Can't wait to finally have a full on custom loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Only thing that really sucks is apparently one of my PWM fans is bad... I've been testing out two Swiftech PWM splitters daisy chained together and out of 10 Cougar Vortex fans one of them makes a clicking noise but only on PWM. When voltage controlled on a fan controller it's perfectly fine. All 9 of the other fans make no weird noises, just that one fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Idk about the fan, but fortunately it still runs ok on a controller.
You'll really enjoy having a custom loop. The Pastel is great stuff.








Post a photo when you're done!


----------



## rickyman0319

anyone please help me to figure out the color to mix equal gold color? or UV gold?

ty


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> anyone please help me to figure out the color to mix equal gold color? or UV gold?
> 
> ty


Type "snef sand of god" in the search box on this website (or your preferred search engine). He did a stunning build with a gold color pastel. I believe he mentions mix ratios. I'd find it for you but I'm on a smartphone.


----------



## VSG

On a similar note, has anyone experimented for a silver color?


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> I'm browsing a couple forums' marketplaces currently trying to piece together a custom loop for my current build. I wish I could afford to buy it all new, it would cost about $500. I really only want to spend like $300.


Which ones? OCN's market is pretty good imo, I've never had luck anywhere else.
Quote:


> Now I was thinking about just getting that Primochill Advanced LRT Yellow tubing, but should I get yellow dye for the water too? Or should I use some Pastel? I quite liked my White Pastel in my last build. Or should I go clear tubing and yellow pastel? I plan to keep the trim in my case painted yellow as to match the motherboard. Opinions?


As Mayhem Mike and others have explained, go with Yellow Tubing + Distilled if you want 100% pure performance, and go with Clear Tubing + Dyes/Coolants/Etc vfor 100% Aesthetics, and somewhere in between for a mix. For pastel to really shine you should go clear tubing, even Mike said he didn't really go for Colored Tubing + Pastel.

What do you mean paint the trim on your case? Can you show me a pic, of yours, someone else's, or in paint, of what you mean?
Quote:


> You want the res before the pump, not only do to performance gains which you likely won't see in your case, but because of the bearing in most all liquid cooling pumps these days. It uses an open ceramic bearing, which uses coolant to lubricate it. If it runs without water, or too much bubbles go through it, the ceramic bearing will scratch the graphite on the impellers contacts which will destroy the pump.


Thanks, rep. And so I also have to have the water level of the res above the pump. I'll make the purchase now


----------



## stickg1

My post had a picture of my PC. All the yellow (fans, slot covers, hdd caddies) I painted myself to match my motherboard.


----------



## Belial

I'm having a little difficulty finding the right tubing, I was going to just get primochill advanced LRT but it isn't made in 1/4 x 3/8.

Anyone have a recommendable 1/4 x 3/8? I was about to buy some Tygon 44-4x but I noticed Mayhem says dont use tygon (though it'd be helpful if he specified which tygon, lots of different tygon).

About to make the purchase. I just can't find any black g1/4" o rings, I just need 2 but xoxide and frozen out of stock...


----------



## 15goudreau

Did you check Performance pc?


----------



## chrisnyc75

I've read that you really shouldn't use 1/4" ID tubing, it's too restrictive to your flow rate. That's probably why you're not finding it, nobody uses that size anymore now that most waterblocks are optimized for higher flow (so that 1/4" ID tubing would become the restrictive factor).


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Did you check Performance pc?


For what, tubing or o-rings? It kinda sucks to have to pay for shipping from pfpc just for o-rings.
Quote:


> I've read that you really shouldn't use 1/4" ID tubing, it's too restrictive to your flow rate. That's probably why you're not finding it, nobody uses that size anymore now that most waterblocks are optimized for higher flow (so that 1/4" ID tubing would become the restrictive factor).


It's what the h110 uses, I don't have a choice unless I use adaptors which is kinda silly since all the connections are 1/4 anyways.

So if i can't use tygon with mayhems, what 1/4 tubing can I use?


----------



## D3rSoN

Which to choose: Mayhems XT-1 UV Blue Coolant Concentrate 150ml or Mayhems X1 UV Blue 250ml concentrate?
What is Blue UV cutest?
BLUE UV TRUTH, NO LIGHT BLUE.


----------



## Belial

^ depends on the parts, xt-1 is if you need glycol for copper + alu, or really for just antifreeze protection like if you run a chiller or in icecold outside weather, as x1 and pastels have corrosion inhibitors for mix metal too. Why dont you just run distilled + dyes? X1 is probably better for most users, or rather its simpler (=better).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> My post had a picture of my PC. All the yellow (fans, slot covers, hdd caddies) I painted myself to match my motherboard.


Ah. What did you use for paint? Does it look as good irl, online pics always are a bit deceiving. I spray painted my pci-e slot covers and corsair sp120 fan ring with rustoleum etch primer for gray and as primer, and rus metallic blue, but I dunno if I like it. It seems kinda tacky, I think automotive spray may be better.

I just dont know enough about painting ;/ So many wrong ways to do it.


----------



## rickyman0319

is Distilled water + silver coil good for mixed material like copper and nickel ? or not?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is Distilled water + silver coil good for mixed material like copper and nickel ? or not?


I would just use a biocide instead of silver kill coils.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> ^ depends on the parts, xt-1 is if you need glycol for copper + alu, or really for just antifreeze protection like if you run a chiller or in icecold outside weather, as x1 and pastels have corrosion inhibitors for mix metal too. Why dont you just run distilled + dyes? X1 is probably better for most users, or rather its simpler (=better).
> Ah. What did you use for paint? Does it look as good irl, online pics always are a bit deceiving. I spray painted my pci-e slot covers and corsair sp120 fan ring with rustoleum etch primer for gray and as primer, and rus metallic blue, but I dunno if I like it. It seems kinda tacky, I think automotive spray may be better.
> 
> I just dont know enough about painting ;/ So many wrong ways to do it.


The key is to do a really light dusting of spray paint every few minutes. If you spray right at whatever your painting it looks like crap. A little paint at a time for about 30 minutes and you're good. I prefer the Krylon Fusion paint, seems to do the best. Obviously, it doesn't look as good as auto-body paint but close up it looks decent. It's not a glossy paint, almost like a matte yellow if that even exists, lol.


----------



## rickyman0319

what is the difference between silver kill coil and biocide?

is PTnuke same thing as biocide?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what is the difference between silver kill coil and biocide?
> 
> is PTnuke same thing as biocide?


PTnuke is a liquid biocide. A silver kill coil is exactly as the name describes and acts as a natural biocide (non-chemical).


----------



## rickyman0319

so PTnuke is better the silver kill coil or not?


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is Distilled water + silver coil good for mixed material like copper and nickel ? or not?


As I understand, it's only Copper + Aluminum that you need to worry about. Otherwise as long as there isnt tons of different metals you'll be fine, and most additives have enough inhibitos for just that. You should be fine.

Nuke vs silver is a matter of chemical vs an object some might find ugly if visible, all depends on what you use.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> so PTnuke is better the silver kill coil or not?


Not sure if one is better than the other. I haven't use either yet, but plan to in my first water cooled venture in the next couple of weeks. I like the idea of the silver kill coil being non-chemical as I plan on using plain ol' distilled water. Experienced users would be able to answer this better than I though.


----------



## Ragsters

I have about 1.5 liters of water in my loop and just used 1 drop of Biocide Extreme. I think it was better off before added the drop. Here is a picture of the PH strip from the test. Can you guys tell me if this is okay?


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I have about 1.5 liters of water in my loop and just used 1 drop of Biocide Extreme. I think it was better off before added the drop. Here is a picture of the PH strip from the test. Can you guys tell me if this is okay?


From everything I remember you want your PH around 6.5. You are going to have to match that color to the guide on the package the strip came out of. We cannot tell you as different brands of test strips vary a little in the color range they use.


----------



## hanzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I have about 1.5 liters of water in my loop and just used 1 drop of Biocide Extreme. I think it was better off before added the drop. Here is a picture of the PH strip from the test. Can you guys tell me if this is okay?


You want PH 6-8.

If you are using the Mayhems PH test kit, and it has not changed at all, that looks like 6-7(to me).


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanzy*
> 
> You want PH 6-8.
> 
> If you are using the Mayhems PH test kit, and it has not changed at all, that looks like 6-7(to me).


I am using the Mayhems PH test kit. Its just not clear what color it is to me. I mean I see the green but its also yellow below it.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> so PTnuke is better the silver kill coil or not?
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if one is better than the other. I haven't use either yet, but plan to in my first water cooled venture in the next couple of weeks. I like the idea of the silver kill coil being non-chemical as I plan on using plain ol' distilled water. Experienced users would be able to answer this better than I though.
Click to expand...

You may not want a kill coil if like your reservoir is a clear reservoir that's 100% in open view, seeing a kill coil in there would just be ugly (though maybe if you use mayhem's pastel, you wouldn't see it, but then you wouldn't need one if you used pastel).

You also don't want to mix nickel and silver, so if you have nickel plated parts, you may not want it either. Or, if you have a ton of different metals in your loop, ie 3+, you don't want to add silver. Silver on it's own isn't very corrosive, but you will _always_ have corrosion with mixed metals, it's just a question of 'when'. By adding more metals, you increase the rate of corrosion, and people have had kill coils cause corrosion.

It all depends on what you do, both are great products but depending on how your loop is set up, one will be a better choice than the other. You will not need one if you use mayhems though. There are highly professional and reputable members that swear by either, ie Martin's hates silver koil and swears by Nuke, Murlocke prefers Koil


----------



## Belial

I'm about to make my big purchase but I need help with one thing:

It says don't use Tygon in the OP, and I can only find 1/4x3/8 tubing in Tygon. I need to use that size of tubing, but it's hard to find in anything. If someone could help me with a 1/4 tubing or if maybe if one of the tygons are okay, that'd be helpful. Just the last thing I need to know before pulling the trigger


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I'm about to make my big purchase but I need help with one thing:
> 
> It says don't use Tygon in the OP, and I can only find 1/4x3/8 tubing in Tygon. I need to use that size of tubing, but it's hard to find in anything. If someone could help me with a 1/4 tubing or if maybe if one of the tygons are okay, that'd be helpful. Just the last thing I need to know before pulling the trigger


Use 1/4 to 3/8" adapters if you can. Your tiny pumps in the corsair units will have more than enough trouble keeping flowrates to an acceptable level, and the bends in 1/4" tubing adds a LOT of restriction when compared to wider tubing.

If you absolutely can't manage to fit the adapters in, then Tygon Plasticizers free tubing works. The warnings against plasticizers on mayhems website is old, but still stands for all their tubing except the plasticizers free tubing.


----------



## Belial

I'm not using adaptors, they look ugly and ridiculous. i'd rather have clouding.
Quote:


> Your tiny pumps in the corsair units will have more than enough trouble keeping flowrates to an acceptable level, and the bends in 1/4" tubing adds a LOT of restriction when compared to wider tubing.


I won't be using lots of bends, and from what I've read there's way more 90* tight turns and such in the rad then to be worried about a couple in the tubing. It uses 1/4ID tubing stock, so there will not be any trouble with it.
Quote:


> If you absolutely can't manage to fit the adapters in, then Tygon Plasticizers free tubing works. The warnings against plasticizers on mayhems website is old, but still stands for all their tubing except the plasticizers free tubing.


Interesting, thanks. I think the plasticizer tubing of tygon is cloudy, but I'm sure I can manage something.

edit: the E1000 isn't super clear, but there's 2475 clear tubing that's plasticiser free... but that's supposed to be even worse to work with ;/ i dont know what to use!

edit2: screw it, I'm just going to get 44-4x. worst case scenario of plasticiser shouldnt even matter with solid pastel fluid anyways


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I'm not using adaptors, they look ugly and ridiculous. i'd rather have clouding.
> I won't be using lots of bends, and *from what I've read there's way more 90* tight turns and such in the rad then to be worried about a couple in the tubing.* It uses 1/4ID tubing stock, so there will not be any trouble with it.
> Interesting, thanks. I think the plasticizer tubing of tygon is cloudy, but I'm sure I can manage something.
> 
> edit: the E1000 isn't super clear, but there's 2475 clear tubing that's plasticiser free and supposed to be 'very clear' so i think I'll make mu purhcases now.


Not really, a run of the mill single width computer cooling radiator doesn't really have any 90 *bends*, the key word there is bends. Water intakes into the first chamber where it is pushed through 6-28 chambers (depending on how many rows your radiator has), it then flows into another chamber which it turns 90degrees then back through the other set of chambers, then out.

There is no tight turns or bends in a standard PC watercooling radiator. If, however, you're cannibalizing a car radiator or using a MoRa then yes, it has a ton of 90 degree bends.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I'm about to make my big purchase but I need help with one thing:
> 
> It says don't use Tygon in the OP, and I can only find 1/4x3/8 tubing in Tygon. I need to use that size of tubing, but it's hard to find in anything. If someone could help me with a 1/4 tubing or if maybe if one of the tygons are okay, that'd be helpful. Just the last thing I need to know before pulling the trigger


Tygon is a brand name and they make many different types of tubing ..... go into a water testing laboratory where they utmost in quality is required and that is all ya see.

But, just as people say Corsair makes great PSU's, .... and they certainly so..... but Corsair also makes some pretty crappy PSUs.....in short, brand name can not be depended upon as an absolute indicator of quality.

So if you buy Tygon, just make sure it's the laboratory grade, plasticizer free variety.

And I'm gonna agree with Z on the tubing size.... 1/4 is a bad idea

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/hazen-williams-water-d_797.html

*1/4" Tubing at 1.25 gpm*
Actual Head Loss thru typical Loop (psi): 2.5 (tubing only)
Velocity (ft/s): 8.17
Each fitting adds: 0.67 psi .... 10 fittings = 6.7 psi
Total w/o blocks = 9.2 psi

*3/8" Tubing at 1.25 gpm*
Actual Head Loss thru typical Loop (psi): 0.3 (tubing only)
Velocity (ft/s): 3.63 fps
Each fitting adds: 0.13 psi .... 10 fittings = 1.3 psi
Total w/o blocks = 1.6 psi


----------



## stickg1

Get a small piece of Tygon to put on the barb, then slide better and wider tubing over top. Clamp it into place, no leak, no adapter, higher quality tubing with minimal plasticizer issues.


----------



## Roxycon

Mayhems pastel white





I think i got a placebo, the white looks a little gray ish irl



Myhems new line of anti vibration kit







jk, but their bottle caps do work great for that purpose









Too bad i didn't get the chance to try the aurora 2


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Mayhems pastel white
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think i got a placebo, the white looks a little gray ish irl
> 
> 
> 
> Myhems new line of anti vibration kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jk, but their bottle caps do work great for that purpose
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad i didn't get the chance to try the aurora 2


Dang, sometimes minimalistic aesthetics just look SO sharp. Nice setup.

Just one question, HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR VIDEO CARDS COOL. XD

The way your loop is setup, it looks like they would have next to 0 flow, like it would pass right through.


----------



## Roxycon

Thanks







still got some work to do though.. Have to hide those ugly ram sticks and the next time i change coolant ill add some 45 degree fittings to get the tubing more straight









Im pleased with the ability to hide most of my plumbing and misc hardware in this case


----------



## M3TAl

What's the tubing going into after the gpu blocks? The thing above your bottom rad? It looks like part of the case but it has fittings on it?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What's the tubing going into after the gpu blocks? The thing above your bottom rad? It looks like part of the case but it has fittings on it?


He probably just hardmodded it to pass tubing through the back.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Dang, sometimes minimalistic aesthetics just look SO sharp. Nice setup.
> 
> Just one question, HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR VIDEO CARDS COOL. XD
> 
> The way your loop is setup, it looks like they would have next to 0 flow, like it would pass right through.


He looks to be running the whole block setup in parallel. So one side is flowing into all three blocks at same time and then exiting all three at same time.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> He looks to be running the whole block setup in parallel. So one side is flowing into all three blocks at same time and then exiting all three at same time.


Would that even work with a CPU block and a GPU block? Wouldn't the flowrates be VERY uneven at that point.


----------



## Roxycon

Indeed, modded four passthroughs into the chassis

All parallel blocks.. Its a little uneven but the blocks matches pretty well in terms of restriction, i got 60 degrees c on the cpu @4,5ghz and 55 on gpus under load, fans spinning in about 900~1000rpm @ those temps


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed, modded four passthroughs into the chassis
> 
> All parallel blocks.. Its a little uneven but the blocks matches pretty well in terms of restriction, i got 60 degrees c on the cpu @4,5ghz and 55 on gpus under load, fans spinning in about 900~1000rpm @ those temps


Honestly I'd due without the 90 degree fittings. It looks really nice with those clean bends, and with 90 degree fittings you'd just have a funny looking curve on the tube.


----------



## Belial

bump


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Tygon is a brand name and they make many different types of tubing ..... go into a water testing laboratory where they utmost in quality is required and that is all ya see.
> 
> But, just as people say Corsair makes great PSU's, .... and they certainly so..... but Corsair also makes some pretty crappy PSUs.....in short, brand name can not be depended upon as an absolute indicator of quality.
> 
> So if you buy Tygon, just make sure it's the laboratory grade, plasticizer free variety.
> 
> And I'm gonna agree with Z on the tubing size.... 1/4 is a bad idea
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/hazen-williams-water-d_797.html
> 
> *1/4" Tubing at 1.25 gpm*
> Actual Head Loss thru typical Loop (psi): 2.5 (tubing only)
> Velocity (ft/s): 8.17
> Each fitting adds: 0.67 psi .... 10 fittings = 6.7 psi
> Total w/o blocks = 9.2 psi
> 
> *3/8" Tubing at 1.25 gpm*
> Actual Head Loss thru typical Loop (psi): 0.3 (tubing only)
> Velocity (ft/s): 3.63 fps
> Each fitting adds: 0.13 psi .... 10 fittings = 1.3 psi
> Total w/o blocks = 1.6 psi


With all fairness that's tested at 1.25 GPM. Increased flowrate means higher pressure drops, and vice versa. We'd need to see the presure drop at .25GPM









Still, I have a hunch his pump will burn out with his suggested setup, but w/e if it does he can just pop in a new pump and tear out the one that comes factory. Many people have done it before.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

That's all that pump does is 0.25 gpm ? I always figured 1.0 as a minimum, 1.5 for if running parallel blocks.

I remember looking at the 240L Prestige and it had a max of 1.75 gpm (400 /hr)
http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=10057&product_name=Eisberg%20240L%20Prestige

Seen it reported at 165 lph or about 0.75 gpm which isn't too bad.

And it's worse than that apparently .... this test pegs less than half that ... 0.11 gpm

http://www.overclock.net/t/1371863/corsair-h100i-max-flow-rate-test-video-result


----------



## azelexx

Hi everyone,

First time poster here - I've just built a new system using distilled water.

24hrs later I received my Mayhem Extreme Biocide in the mail.

Should I drain my loop, mix the biocide with distilled water, then refill my loop? Or can I get away with just opening my reservoir port and adding a few drops?

Any guidance is appreciated


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azelexx*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> First time poster here - I've just built a new system using distilled water.
> 
> 24hrs later I received my Mayhem Extreme Biocide in the mail.
> 
> Should I drain my loop, mix the biocide with distilled water, then refill my loop? Or can I get away with just opening my reservoir port and adding a few drops?
> 
> Any guidance is appreciated


Should be fine, after 24hrs with a new loop with distilled you shouldn't have a bio issue in the loop....No need to drain, just put in the res as it will mix up nicely.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azelexx*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> First time poster here - I've just built a new system using distilled water.
> 
> 24hrs later I received my Mayhem Extreme Biocide in the mail.
> 
> Should I drain my loop, mix the biocide with distilled water, then refill my loop? Or can I get away with just opening my reservoir port and adding a few drops?
> 
> Any guidance is appreciated


Put ONE DROP then check the pH levels. Don't go dumping half the bottle in, that stuff is strong.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azelexx*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> First time poster here - I've just built a new system using distilled water.
> 
> 24hrs later I received my Mayhem Extreme Biocide in the mail.
> 
> Should I drain my loop, mix the biocide with distilled water, then refill my loop? Or can I get away with just opening my reservoir port and adding a few drops?
> 
> Any guidance is appreciated


You should be good without draining, but as someone else stated do NOT use a few drops. That stuff is pretty potent.

For the FIRST treatment I'd use two drops, one if it's a big drop. Wait 5 mins for it to all mix up, then test the pH. Try not to let the pH drop below 6.3


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> That's all that pump does is 0.25 gpm ? I always figured 1.0 as a minimum, 1.5 for if running parallel blocks.
> 
> I remember looking at the 240L Prestige and it had a max of 1.75 gpm (400 /hr)
> http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=10057&product_name=Eisberg%20240L%20Prestige
> 
> Seen it reported at 165 lph or about 0.75 gpm which isn't too bad.
> 
> And it's worse than that apparently .... this test pegs less than half that ... 0.11 gpm
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1371863/corsair-h100i-max-flow-rate-test-video-result


Yup, I read another one that head .2GPM but that was JUST the pump, block stripped, so it was reading nominal flow.

As I've previously stated, that corsair unit has a piss poor pump. It's laughable. It's his mod though, if he wants to risk it and most likely burn it out then w/e, it's an easy fix. No loss if it does burn out, just strip it like you would anyway when installing a new pump.


----------



## VSG

Hey guys, just wondering again if someone has any ideas for a "silver" dye combo?


----------



## azelexx

Thanks for all the feedback guys... I added two drops since I have 2L of water, but I think I've gone too acidic! The paper is yellow border lining red.

What should I do?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azelexx*
> 
> Thanks for all the feedback guys... I added two drops since I have 2L of water, but I think I've gone too acidic! The paper is yellow border lining red.
> 
> What should I do?


A pinch of baking soda. But I would give it a little longer. Test it again in the morning.


----------



## azelexx

Thanks stickg1,

It seems currently the reading from reservoir is different to reading from drain tap (which is located res > radiator 1 > radiator 2 > drain)

The reading from drain seems to be around 7.

I guess I'll run the system and let the water cycle around for a bit longer


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azelexx*
> 
> Thanks stickg1,
> 
> It seems currently the reading from reservoir is different to reading from drain tap (which is located res > radiator 1 > radiator 2 > drain)
> 
> The reading from drain seems to be around 7.
> 
> I guess I'll run the system and let the water cycle around for a bit longer


That's why I said wait 5 mins.









If you test too soon after adding it then it isn't going to be mixed in properly yet, and you will get an extremely high reading, or extremely low as this case might be.

I got a reading of 4 once, waited a few mins and got 6.8.

For future reference, whenever referencing pH strips then actually post a pic of the paper, as well as a pick of the reference color chart with that particular pH test kid, as they do very from kit to kit.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Yup, I read another one that head .2GPM but that was JUST the pump, block stripped, so it was reading nominal flow.
> 
> As I've previously stated, that corsair unit has a piss poor pump. It's laughable. It's his mod though, if he wants to risk it and most likely burn it out then w/e, it's an easy fix. No loss if it does burn out, just strip it like you would anyway when installing a new pump.


yeah If I was gonna upgrade it by getting rid of the weakest component, I'd have a hard time deciding which one it would be


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> yeah If I was gonna upgrade it by getting rid of the weakest component, I'd have a hard time deciding which one it would be


The CPU block is actually pretty solid. It's got VERY narrow lanes which are great for cooling the CPU. This was actually done to counter-act the incredibly low flowrates, but yeah. The pump is rubbish, and the radiator has ALUMINUM? *Sigh*

It's his mod though, no skin off my bones.









The pump failing will be an easy fix if we're right, so there isn't much actual danger, assuming his system has thermal failsafes.


----------



## stickg1

I never thought of gutting the pump out of the CLC blocks. That'd be pretty gangster to have 1 on the CPU and 1 or 2 on the GPU(s), loop them all together with only the stock rads showing and be like "yeah its just some stock CLCs I looped together," but then behind your motherboard tray is like twin D5 vario's and 3x 480 Monstas









Like yo, wanna race biatch!!!


----------



## D3rSoN

Any picture with Mayhems uv blue glowing?


----------



## Egami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hey guys, just wondering again if someone has any ideas for a "silver" dye combo?


Grey (red + green on mayhems white) would probably be the closest non-aurora option?


----------



## VSG

Ya, I figured as much. Thanks for the tip, I took a look at Mayhem's video on the grey pastel and I may well be going that route.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Well $21, a week for shipping, some finger cramps and two 15ml bottles of Mahems Deep Red Dye added to my Red Pastel Loop and coolant color has probably moved 1/3 of the way from the original "strawberry" to about towards my target of RoG / Mushkin Red......giving up at this point .... Think I'll let someone else do the experimenting







.... somebody at some point gotta wanna match Asus, MSI, Corsair or Mushkin colors.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Well $21, a week for shipping, some finger cramps and two 15ml bottles of Mahems Deep Red Dye added to my Red Pastel Loop and coolant color has probably moved 1/3 of the way from the original "strawberry" to about towards my target of RoG / Mushkin Red......giving up at this point .... Think I'll let someone else do the experimenting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... somebody at some point gotta wanna match Asus, MSI, Corsair or Mushkin colors.


You're using deep red to try and achieve bright red?

It seems like it would be better to get something like this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17674/ex-liq-264/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Red.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I never thought of gutting the pump out of the CLC blocks. That'd be pretty gangster to have 1 on the CPU and 1 or 2 on the GPU(s), loop them all together with only the stock rads showing and be like "yeah its just some stock CLCs I looped together," but then behind your motherboard tray is like twin D5 vario's and 3x 480 Monstas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like yo, wanna race biatch!!!


For your own benefit, watch the language. Frankly I don't care, and I don't think most people here at this club care but never the less the mods will bust ya for it.
 








I know from experience.


----------



## ozzy1925

i am very new to water cooling and as i as i read many ek nickel plated users having corrison problem ,either product quality or users fault.I will buy mayhem pre mixed pastel white ,should i buy extra anti-corrosive additive or any other additive for the loop?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am very new to water cooling and as i as i read many ek nickel plated users having corrison problem ,either product quality or users fault.I will buy mayhem pre mixed pastel white ,should i buy extra anti-corrosive additive or any other additive for the loop?


I wouldn't add ANYTHING to pastel except dye. Pastel has all the anti-corrosives you'll need to protect nickle from corroding, as well as all the surfactants and biocides you'll need to keep your loop shiney and working well. If you were using aluminum or something extreme like that I'd grab some XT-1, but nickle is pretty light when talking about electrode potential differences.

With less technical speak, and more newbie friendly dialect: Pastel is fine as is; no additional corrosion inhibitors need to be, nor should be, added to it.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> You're using deep red to try and achieve bright red?
> 
> It seems like it would be better to get something like this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17674/ex-liq-264/Mayhems_Dye_-.


What I have after the 2 bottles of pastel in 2 liters looks nothing like this picture


Looks more like this "strawberry slushie"










Target


Deep Red Dye


Red Dye


Asus Red (see PCIE slots in siggie image below and Mushkin Red) are a darker shade of red.

2 bottles (I expected maybe 10-15 drops) got me a lot closer but still not there. As ya can see the target is still somewhere in between the deep red and the slushie. The plain red is a lot lighter than the target.

Enter the Hex Code "AF171B" on this link and you'll see where I'm at
http://www.colorsontheweb.com/colorwizard.asp

I'm really surprised there's not recipes to try and match stock MoBo / GFX card / Memory colors.

This is an important technical effort underway here. Asus cards now let ya change colors with sticker inserts..... word is adding the stickers to color match the MoBo makes to system overclock better .... so I'm thinking if I can get coolant to match too, I'll break 5.0 Ghz / 1250 Mhz on the GFX and all at 35C with 29 ambient and if I can color match the fans they won't hafta exceed 600 rpm


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I wouldn't add ANYTHING to pastel except dye. Pastel has all the anti-corrosives you'll need to protect nickle from corroding, as well as all the surfactants and biocides you'll need to keep your loop shiney and working well. If you were using aluminum or something extreme like that I'd grab some XT-1, but nickle is pretty light when talking about electrode potential differences.
> 
> With less technical speak, and more newbie friendly dialect: Pastel is fine as is; no additional corrosion inhibitors need to be, nor should be, added to it.


thank you + rep.Which one do you advise for a newbie remix pastel or concentrate pastel?And also do you know how much liter do i need for 2x 480 mm rad.,250ml reservoir,1xcpu,2xgpu and 4 sticks of ram


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> What I have after the 2 bottles of pastel in 2 liters looks nothing like this picture
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks more like this "strawberry slushie"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Target
> 
> 
> Deep Red Dye
> 
> 
> Red Dye
> 
> 
> 
> Asus Red (see PCIE slots in siggie image below and Mushkin Red) are a darker shade of red.
> 
> The plain red is a lot lighter than the target..... 2 bottles (I expected maybe 10-15 drops) got me a lot closer but still not there.


When you said strawberry that threw me off. XD

Anyways, blue is what you'd need. It'll get you closer to that "blood red" color you want. Lots of people have done it that way.

Is that actually a pic of your pastel, because if so that looks rather odd.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thank you + rep.Which one do you advise for a newbie remix pastel or concentrate pastel?And also do you know how much liter do i need for 2x 480 mm rad.,250ml reservoir,1xcpu,2xgpu and 4 sticks of ram


If you live in the UK, premix definitely. If you live in europe and have a semi-local re-distributor that carries pastel premix, then go with that. If not, concentrate. It really is the exact same thing, except Mayhems makes concentrates to cut down on shipping costs internationally. It's the difference between shipping one liter of pastel for x amount of money, or shipping 4 concentrates which will make 4 liters for the same amount of money. If memory serves it was a request from PPCs for him to make concentrates.

As to how much, it depends on your rads. Some take .2 liters for a single rad, then if you have the TFC monsta then it's 1.2 liters per rad. XD

I'd grab two liters, which should be more than enough for your loop assuming you don't have a ridiculously oversized radiators. It's always good to grab more than you'll need though, just store the rest for when you need to top off the loop.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am very new to water cooling and as i as i read many ek nickel plated users having corrison problem ,either product quality or users fault.I will buy mayhem pre mixed pastel white ,should i buy extra anti-corrosive additive or any other additive for the loop?


''

EK had a plating issue some years back that has not resurfaced since then.....someone reads an old posts and then reposts and those new to the subject get all worried about nuttin


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If you live in the UK, premix definitely. If you live in europe and have a semi-local re-distributor that carries pastel premix, then go with that. If not, concentrate. It really is the exact same thing, except Mayhems makes concentrates to cut down on shipping costs internationally. It's the difference between shipping one liter of pastel for x amount of money, or shipping 4 concentrates which will make 4 liters for the same amount of money. If memory serves it was a request from PPCs for him to make concentrates.
> 
> As to how much, it depends on your rads. Some take .2 liters for a single rad, then if you have the TFC monsta then it's 1.2 liters per rad. XD
> 
> I'd grab two liters, which should be more than enough for your loop assuming you don't have a ridiculously oversized radiators. It's always good to grab more than you'll need though, just store the rest for when you need to top off the loop.


i will be using alphacool 2xut 60 480mm. and i can order up to 4x 250ml concentrate or1x1premix ltr.to my country (Turkey)directly from mayhem .Any DI water does the job ?Because, my mother has a pharmacy i will get DI water from her


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> When you said strawberry that threw me off. XD
> 
> Anyways, blue is what you'd need. It'll get you closer to that "blood red" color you want. Lots of people have done it that way.
> 
> Is that actually a pic of your pastel, because if so that looks rather odd.


No that's a pic of an actual strawberry slushie .... it's the exact same color as my loop was ..... my kids .. everyone who has seen it jokes that I went to 7-Eleven and poured in a 46 ounce slushi .... the "odd" look comes from the ice crystals and dark red dot from pieces of strawberry skin

Strawberries ..... on tho outside when ripe ..... is actually a pretty good approximation of the desired color .... when ya make a strawberry slushi tho ... the white pulp from the inside of the strawberry gives ya a pinkish color.... looking at the FCPU pick of the Mayems pastel is actually very very close which is why I picked it......real life doesn't match the pic thi.

Yes, I have seen the blood red (including the Mayhems recipe video) and that's not where I'm going..... blood red is darker still, almost a brownish red.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> ''
> 
> EK had a plating issue some years back that has not resurfaced since then.....someone reads an old posts and then reposts and those new to the subject get all worried about nuttin


Well their original problem was improper treatment of plating surfaces, and that HAS been fixed.

They still have extremely thin nickle plating, 16microns if I remember correctly, that can easily "flake" off if the copper beneath it is exposed, which is extremely easy to make happen. 16 micron is extremely thin.


----------



## ozzy1925

as i read: Add 750mls of Purified water to 250ml of concentrate
should i be looking for distilled water or purified water.?As i read these are 2 different things.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> as i read: Add 750mls of Purified water to 250ml of concentrate
> should i be looking for distilled water or purified water.?As i read these are 2 different things.


Distilled water. That's going to be very near pure H2O, while purified water may have minerals, anti-microbials, and even charcoal. (Charcoal is used in most water purification filters)


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> What I have after the 2 bottles of pastel in 2 liters looks nothing like this picture
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks more like this "strawberry slushie"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Target
> 
> 
> Deep Red Dye
> 
> 
> Red Dye
> 
> 
> Asus Red (see PCIE slots in siggie image below and Mushkin Red) are a darker shade of red.
> 
> 2 bottles (I expected maybe 10-15 drops) got me a lot closer but still not there. As ya can see the target is still somewhere in between the deep red and the slushie. The plain red is a lot lighter than the target.
> 
> Enter the Hex Code "AF171B" on this link and you'll see where I'm at
> http://www.colorsontheweb.com/colorwizard.asp
> 
> I'm really surprised there's not recipes to try and match stock MoBo / GFX card / Memory colors.
> 
> This is an important technical effort underway here. Asus cards now let ya change colors with sticker inserts..... word is adding the stickers to color match the MoBo makes to system overclock better .... so I'm thinking if I can get coolant to match too, I'll break 5.0 Ghz / 1250 Mhz on the GFX and all at 35C with 29 ambient and if I can color match the fans they won't hafta exceed 600 rpm


Dude, I had to add 90 (NINETY!) drops of Mayhem's Deep Red dye, (which was most of the bottle) to ~2 litres of plain old distilled water to get the colour below. And you're trying to shift a strong white, opaque base...you're going to need to use a LOT more dye.


----------



## Mayhem

So sorry for not being around much Mayhems is leaving me with hardly any time for online chat.

Some news for you all anyway.

1) Aurora 2 testing is now finished. We found it indeed does work 1000 times better than aurora how ever id still avoid using bay reservoirs with it as over time they become an issue.
2) The new Aurora is going to simply be slip streamed into the Aurora line. As the old stuff sells out we will be replenishing it with the new Aurora version.
3) Because Mayhems Aurora is now totally made from the ground up in our lab it has helped us reduce costs. So starting next year Aurora will have a massive price drop. From £14.99 to £9.99









4) We will still only say its a short time fluid how ever in testing it does last a lot longer but because certain variants of equipment can drop the life span we cannot guarantee a working life as such. How ever as always we will always replace any fluid you are not happy with.

There is more news to come but ill need to check a few things first so for now

I wish you all a very Happy Christmas

Our shop and support for email will be closed on the following days.

25,27,31 Dec 2013
1 Jan 2014

Please remember delivery times will be slower over the holiday season.,

4 Pallets of Premix are being prepared to be sent over to USA they will be going by ship so that the USA can now have access to the full premix coolants.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> So sorry for not being around much Mayhems is leaving me with hardly any time for online chat.
> 
> Some news for you all anyway.
> 
> 1) Aurora 2 testing is now finished. We found it indeed does work 1000 times better than aurora how ever id still avoid using bay reservoirs with it as over time they become an issue.
> 2) The new Aurora is going to simply be slip streamed into the Aurora line. As the old stuff sells out we will be replenishing it with the new Aurora version.
> 3) Because Mayhems Aurora is now totally made from the ground up in our lab it has helped us reduce costs. So starting next year Aurora will have a massive price drop. From £14.99 to £9.99
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4) We will still only say its a short time fluid how ever in testing it does last a lot longer but because certain variants of equipment can drop the life span we cannot guarantee a working life as such. How ever as always we will always replace any fluid you are not happy with.
> 
> There is more news to come but ill need to check a few things first so for now
> 
> I wish you all a very Happy Christmas
> 
> Our shop and support for email will be closed on the following days.
> 
> 25,27,31 Dec 2013
> 1 Jan 2014
> 
> Please remember delivery times will be slower over the holiday season.,
> 
> 4 Pallets of Premix are being prepared to be sent over to USA they will be going by ship so that the USA can now have access to the full premix coolants.


Wonderful!!!!

One question, if the Aurora2 is being slip stream in the Aurora line how can we know for sure that we are buying the new version?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Dude, I had to add 90 (NINETY!) drops of Mayhem's Deep Red dye, (which was most of the bottle) to ~2 litres of plain old distilled water to get the colour below. And you're trying to shift a strong white, opaque base...you're going to need to use a LOT more dye.


You have me confused with someone else. I didn't have a strong white opaque base.

I used 500ml of Mayems red pastel + 2 full bottles (30ml) of deep red.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> as i read: Add 750mls of Purified water to 250ml of concentrate
> should i be looking for distilled water or purified water.?As i read these are 2 different things.


Distillation can leave some organics behind as they evaporate with the steam....organics also re-enter the liquid from storage containers.
Deionization removes minerals, leaves organics and bacteria

http://www.caslab.com/News/deionized-vs-distilled.html

Deionized or distilled water is often "purfied" for laboratory use via several purification methods (which might include, reverse osmosis, ozonization and / or other steps including a charcoal filter to remove organics.

Of course "purified" like "organic" and "home made" has no firm industry wide accepted definition, so it means only what the vendor says it means.... could mean running thru a paper towel or coffee filter.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well their original problem was improper treatment of plating surfaces, and that HAS been fixed.
> 
> They still have extremely thin nickle plating, 16microns if I remember correctly, that can easily "flake" off if the copper beneath it is exposed, which is extremely easy to make happen. 16 micron is extremely thin.


My point being whereas there was a multitude of failures with regard to the issue from 3 years ago, I have heard only of an occasional issue since it's been addressed, each of which, as rare they were, of which was resolved w/ a warranty replacement.


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> You have me confused with someone else. I didn't have a strong white opaque base.
> 
> I used 500ml of Mayems red pastel + 2 full bottles (30ml) of deep red.


Amigo, _all_ the Mayhem's Pastel colours start with a strong white opaque base, it's essentially Ice Dragon coolant with Mayhem's dyes added.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> Amigo, _all_ the Mayhem's Pastel colours start with a strong white opaque base, it's essentially Ice Dragon coolant with Mayhem's dyes added.


Not at all, it's essentially Mayhems Pastel White with dyes.









Ice Dragon and Pastel are not the same thing. Mayhems Mick did work with the designer of IDC to get a nice opaque color, but they are not a homogenous product.

As to using red vs white, red is pre-dyed so it will take a LOT less dye to make it the color he wants. It's really just a price thing, but pastel will require more dye to change, that's for true.

As back to Jack: I'd still use a bit of dark blue dye. Even if blood red is too dark, just don't use as much blue. It will darken the red. More deep red dye will very VERY slowly dye it deeper red, while just a little blue will darken it more.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> http://www.caslab.com/News/deionized-vs-distilled.html
> 
> Deionized or distilled water is often "purfied" for laboratory use via several purification methods (which might include, reverse osmosis, ozonization and / or other steps including a charcoal filter to remove organics.
> 
> Of course "purified" like "organic" and "home made" has no firm industry wide accepted definition, so it means only what the vendor says it means.... could mean running thru a paper towel or coffee filter.
> .


so the water we buy for car battery ok for water cooling?


----------



## Ukkooh

Will it cause issues if I use Mayhem's biocide with deionized water? Distilled would cost me A LOT and I'd rather use the money for qdcs or something...


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> so the water we buy for car battery ok for water cooling?


I buy my water at the petrol station, as a matter of fact.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> I buy my water at the petrol station, as a matter of fact.


do you mix it with any mayhem product?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> Will it cause issues if I use Mayhem's biocide with deionized water? Distilled would cost me A LOT and I'd rather use the money for qdcs or something...


Yes, you can.

[EDIT] When I said "you can", I meant you can use DI (deionized water) without any issue.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I dunno what you buy for ya car battery.









I wasn't too much worried .... when ya use an engineered coolant in ya loop, I worry a lot less about what traces of what might be in the water .


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> So sorry for not being around much Mayhems is leaving me with hardly any time for online chat.
> 
> Some news for you all anyway.
> 
> 1) Aurora 2 testing is now finished. We found it indeed does work 1000 times better than aurora how ever id still avoid using bay reservoirs with it as over time they become an issue.
> 2) The new Aurora is going to simply be slip streamed into the Aurora line. As the old stuff sells out we will be replenishing it with the new Aurora version.
> 3) Because Mayhems Aurora is now totally made from the ground up in our lab it has helped us reduce costs. So starting next year Aurora will have a massive price drop. From £14.99 to £9.99
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4) We will still only say its a short time fluid how ever in testing it does last a lot longer but because certain variants of equipment can drop the life span we cannot guarantee a working life as such. How ever as always we will always replace any fluid you are not happy with.
> 
> There is more news to come but ill need to check a few things first so for now
> 
> I wish you all a very Happy Christmas
> 
> Our shop and support for email will be closed on the following days.
> 
> 25,27,31 Dec 2013
> 1 Jan 2014
> 
> Please remember delivery times will be slower over the holiday season.,
> 
> 4 Pallets of Premix are being prepared to be sent over to USA they will be going by ship so that the USA can now have access to the full premix coolants.


Saweet!!! Gonna have to pick up some when it is available


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Mayhems X1 UV Emerald Green not shining to bright with my UV lights

Will have some pics soon regardless! (think I need one of these )
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6432/ele-306/FrozenCPU_7-Spread_Lazer_LED_Light_-_UV.html?tl=g6c77s121


----------



## _REAPER_

I just finished my rebuild let me know what you think


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I just finished my rebuild let me know what you think


looks very nice







cards look sweet
Open those bottom panels







show me your magic on the inside!!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Mayhems X1 UV Emerald Green not shining to bright with my UV lights
> 
> Will have some pics soon regardless! (think I need one of these )
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6432/ele-306/FrozenCPU_7-Spread_Lazer_LED_Light_-_UV.html?tl=g6c77s121


If it is not glowing real bright it is almost certainly not getting enough UV. Are you using cathodes or LEDs? And where are they in your case? Some pics of your setup would perhaps help.

The small led bar you posted will probably not help much in terms of lighting the whole loop up. Those are pretty directional and may really just help out on the res or one area in your case. I'd say put in more cathodes, those are the best in terms of the UV waves they put out
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I just finished my rebuild let me know what you think


Lookin good


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> looks very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cards look sweet
> *Open those bottom panels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> show me your magic on the inside!!*


Uh, hmmm.


----------



## IT Diva

Mine is coming along nicely, waiting on the mobo block with just a few more tubes to run . . .

It will be sweeeeet to see the colors surging thru all those miles of endless tubes . . . .

One thing I really would like to know, is if the new Aurora 2 was tested with the Koolance flow meters ????????

I found that with the original aurora, that my flow meters gummed up and 2 wouldn't spin at all, and the third was partially gummed up and spun slower than it should causing low readings.

Cost me $100 to replace them as they wouldn't flush out, and it's an all day job to do all three, and that was while just in testing outside of the case.

Darlene


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Uh, hmmm.


lol such filth on your mind







the 900d does things to you!!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Mine is coming along nicely, waiting on the mobo block with just a few more tubes to run . . .
> 
> It will be sweeeeet to see the colors surging thru all those miles of endless tubes . . . .
> 
> One thing I really would like to know, is if the new Aurora 2 was tested with the Koolance flow meters ????????
> 
> I found that with the original aurora, that my flow meters gummed up and 2 wouldn't spin at all, and the third was partially gummed up and spun slower than it should causing low readings.
> 
> Cost me $100 to replace them as they wouldn't flush out, and it's an all day job to do all three, and that was while just in testing outside of the case.
> 
> Darlene


insane... INSANE man.... well I definitely will leave the "let your fluids flow through me" out before jimhans1 mind is blown


----------



## Doc3379

That is the most ridiculous thing I have ever seen in my life.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Mine is coming along nicely, waiting on the mobo block with just a few more tubes to run . . .
> 
> It will be sweeeeet to see the colors surging thru all those miles of endless tubes . . . .
> 
> One thing I really would like to know, is if the new Aurora 2 was tested with the Koolance flow meters ????????
> 
> I found that with the original aurora, that my flow meters gummed up and 2 wouldn't spin at all, and the third was partially gummed up and spun slower than it should causing low readings.
> 
> Cost me $100 to replace them as they wouldn't flush out, and it's an all day job to do all three, and that was while just in testing outside of the case.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The Stretch 820 is coming great IT Diva!!!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> lol such filth on your mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the 900d does things to you!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> insane... INSANE man.... well I definitely will leave the "let your fluids flow through me" out before jimhans1 mind is blown


Lol, to late. The photo did that already!

Sweet look Diva!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> That is the most ridiculous thing I have ever seen in my life.


I'm so glad you like it









Darlene


----------



## Belial

Mayhems is distilled IDC with extra corrosion inhibitors (my guess is GRAS, since mayhems doesnt use glycols except in XT-1 and I imagine he just uses what's worked before) and extra biocide. That's why it's not billed as a 'performance' fluid.

I know IDC is just(?) zinc oxide, the idea is that it outperforms water. Which from what I've seen, appears to be true. Hence why Mayhems is so much cheaper then IDC, it's diluted to ~20%. I've heard zero issue with Mayhems pastel, but I think a few reports exist on IDC (who knows if it's legit, who knows if just people with issue on Mayhem just aren't as loudspoken on it, and of course, user error).

Pastel is easier to color since it's diluted and, some of the colored bases obviously. I guess if you really want to get that premo temp drop, IDC is the way to go, and then for aesthetics, either go Mayhems for small amounts (1-2 liters) and IDC + Dyes for large quantities or if you're much more experienced?

I talked to the IDC guy, he said that IDC is good for anti-corrosion and mixed metals and anti-growth, that they even tested it in closed loops and corsair CLCs with no issue.

This is just my take on this stuff, I'll be buying Mayhem Blueberry + Dark Blue dye (not to be confused with the new Blue=Deep Blue or old Blue=Light Blue or Ocean Blue=Blue+Green+tiny yellow) for a mixed metal loop (alu+cu) with a solid, dark blue fluid for aesthetic. Now if I can just find a 90* g1/4 1/4ID barb...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Mine is coming along nicely, waiting on the mobo block with just a few more tubes to run


I love it !

I was thinking about doing a wall mount build.... with an aquarium out front and even throwing the fluid res's inside w/ da fishies. ....... you cud fit one Inside that thing !


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Mayhems is distilled IDC with extra corrosion inhibitors (my guess is GRAS, since mayhems doesnt use glycols except in XT-1 and I imagine he just uses what's worked before) and extra biocide. That's why it's not billed as a 'performance' fluid.
> 
> I know IDC is just(?) zinc oxide, the idea is that it outperforms water. Which from what I've seen, appears to be true. Hence why Mayhems is so much cheaper then IDC, it's diluted to ~20%. I've heard zero issue with Mayhems pastel, but I think a few reports exist on IDC (who knows if it's legit, who knows if just people with issue on Mayhem just aren't as loudspoken on it, and of course, user error).
> 
> Pastel is easier to color since it's diluted and, some of the colored bases obviously. I guess if you really want to get that premo temp drop, IDC is the way to go, and then for aesthetics, either go Mayhems for small amounts (1-2 liters) and IDC + Dyes for large quantities or if you're much more experienced?
> 
> I talked to the IDC guy, he said that IDC is good for anti-corrosion and mixed metals and anti-growth, that they even tested it in closed loops and corsair CLCs with no issue.
> 
> This is just my take on this stuff, I'll be buying Mayhem Blueberry + Dark Blue dye (not to be confused with the new Blue=Deep Blue or old Blue=Light Blue or Ocean Blue=Blue+Green+tiny yellow) for a mixed metal loop (alu+cu) with a solid, dark blue fluid for aesthetic. Now if I can just find a 90* g1/4 1/4ID barb...


Like these?:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7925/ex-tub-369/Bitspower_G14_Silver_Shining_Rotary_Angle_14_Fitting_BP-LRIII.html?tl=g30c407s1577

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14620/ex-tub-1059/Enzotech_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Rotary_Barb_Fitting_-_14_ID_Matte_Black_BRCPS-G14-14-90.html?tl=g30c407s1577

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14894/ex-tub-1085/Enzotech_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Rotary_Barb_Fitting_-_14_ID_Nickel_Plate_Metallic_Silver_RCPS-G14-14-90.html?tl=g30c407s1577

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13916/koo-308/Koolance_G14_Swivel_90_Angled_Barb_w_Clamp_6mm_14_ID_-_Black_-_NZL-L06B-BK.html?tl=g30c407s1577

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9508/koo-189/Koolance_G14_Swivel_90_Angled_Barb_w_Clamp_6mm_14_ID_-_Single_-_NZL-L06B.html?tl=g30c407s1577


----------



## Belial

Ah, the enzotechs and koolance's are ugly, and in black (or preferably, but even harder, a dark gray ie black chrome like xspc, or black sparkle/diamond like bitspower).

I got it figured out though, I can order the 90* g1/4 1/4id barb (non-rotary, though they have rotary too) from bitspower in taiwan. Had to email them and stuff, took about 2 weeks for them to find one. Ends up costing like $25 ;/


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Ah, the enzotechs and koolance's are ugly, and in black (or preferably, but even harder, a dark gray ie black chrome like xspc, or black sparkle/diamond like bitspower).
> 
> I got it figured out though, I can order the 90* g1/4 1/4id barb (non-rotary, though they have rotary too) from bitspower in taiwan. Had to email them and stuff, took about 2 weeks for them to find one. Ends up costing like $25 ;/


And what will you do when the NON-rotary fitting doesn't put the nozzle in the proper orientation as is most likely to happen?


----------



## stickg1

Lol Jim don't ruin the surprise for him.


----------



## MariusJS

Hi!
I am currently using Mayhems Blue, can I mix it with Mayhems Pastel White?









Merry Christmas!


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Ah, the enzotechs and koolance's are ugly, and in black (or preferably, but even harder, a dark gray ie black chrome like xspc, or black sparkle/diamond like bitspower).
> 
> I got it figured out though, I can order the 90* g1/4 1/4id barb (non-rotary, though they have rotary too) from bitspower in taiwan. Had to email them and stuff, took about 2 weeks for them to find one. Ends up costing like $25 ;/
> 
> 
> 
> And what will you do when the NON-rotary fitting doesn't put the nozzle in the proper orientation as is most likely to happen?
Click to expand...

Well the o-ring should take care of that a bit, but the orientation of the barb is important, the orientation of my reservoir is not.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MariusJS*
> 
> Hi!
> I am currently using Mayhems Blue, can I mix it with Mayhems Pastel White?


If it's Mayhems Blue Dye then sure, if it's Mayhems X1 Blue concentrate or Mayhems XT-1 Blue concentrate then probably not.


----------



## MariusJS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If it's Mayhems Blue Dye then sure, if it's Mayhems X1 Blue concentrate or Mayhems XT-1 Blue concentrate then probably not.


Yes, it is the Blue Dye, so that goes together fine, then?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MariusJS*
> 
> Yes, it is the Blue Dye, so that goes together fine, then?


Sure. Colored pastel is just factory dyed pastel, and take a guess what Mayhems uses to dye their pastel.


----------



## MariusJS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Sure. Colored pastel is just factory dyed pastel, and take a guess what Mayhems uses to dye their pastel.


Ok then, thanks alot!







I think it better to mix it myself, then I can get the exact color i want


----------



## Belial

Pastel takes a _ton_ of dye to get an 'exact color', you might want to rethink that. Just save yourself 2 bottles of dye and get the pastel closest to the color you want and finish it off with the necessary dyes. You can email mayhem's for how to best go about the color you want, or ask us here.


----------



## MariusJS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Pastel takes a _ton_ of dye to get an 'exact color', you might want to rethink that. Just save yourself 2 bottles of dye and get the pastel closest to the color you want and finish it off with the necessary dyes. You can email mayhem's for how to best go about the color you want, or ask us here.


Might consider that, but I think most of the pastel colors are kind of "weird" if you get what i mean?


----------



## rickyman0319

I have orange and yellow dye. what good colors can I make?


----------



## MariusJS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have orange and yellow dye. what good colors can I make?


Even lighter orange?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have orange and yellow dye. what good colors can I make?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MariusJS*
> 
> Even lighter orange?


Pretty much what Marius said.

When trying to "Create colors" you really only want to use prime colors so red, blue, and yellow, and variations of those such as deep red, light blue, etc.

If you're trying to get a color like gold or something like that then you'd need a professional opinion from Mayhems or someone with much experience using it.

Many experience
Very color
Such mix

wow


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Mine is coming along nicely, waiting on the mobo block with just a few more tubes to run . . .
> 
> It will be sweeeeet to see the colors surging thru all those miles of endless tubes . . . .
> 
> One thing I really would like to know, is if the new Aurora 2 was tested with the Koolance flow meters ????????
> 
> I found that with the original aurora, that my flow meters gummed up and 2 wouldn't spin at all, and the third was partially gummed up and spun slower than it should causing low readings.
> 
> Cost me $100 to replace them as they wouldn't flush out, and it's an all day job to do all three, and that was while just in testing outside of the case.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lol Darlene, your WIP cracks me up (in a good way) every time I see an update. Definitely a show winner you got going there.

In regards to the flow meters, that was definitely a common problem with the first iteration of aurora. I am not sure if they tested aurora2 with flow meters or not but I'd be hesitant with it for any long term usage unless mayhem says otherwise.

Which sensor do you have? I am considering draining an old build and putting aurora2 in fhere to test it out once it is readily available. That build has the FM17 in it so I'd hopefully get some timeline metrics on it.


----------



## ZytheEKS

I'm guessing Aurora 2 won't work with this?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14193/ex-rad-141/MagiCool_Limited_Edition_Monsta_420360_Triple_120mm_140mm_Xtreme_Performance_Radiator.html


----------



## HannaMagi

Doing a build with a NXZT Phantom 410 in gunmetal, and an Asus Gryphon. (so it is pretty dark in there. Gonna have to add a lot of white LED's). I have an XSPC Photon 170 Res. It is a tube reservoir with a tube in the middle, that lights up with an led. I like the solid look of the pastels a little better than the X1's. If I put a white led in the res, I would like the fluid to light up a little. Not just block out the light. Does anyone have any experience with an internal light source and the pastels?


----------



## MariusJS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HannaMagi*
> 
> Doing a build with a NXZT Phantom 410 in gunmetal, and an Asus Gryphon. (so it is pretty dark in there. Gonna have to add a lot of white LED's). I have an XSPC Photon 170 Res. It is a tube reservoir with a tube in the middle, that lights up with an led. I like the solid look of the pastels a little better than the X1's. If I put a white led in the res, I would like the fluid to light up a little. Not just block out the light. Does anyone have any experience with an internal light source and the pastels?


Do not have experience with pastel yet, but in general, even white based colors does not suck it up, you just get more of an "internal, like almost self flouricent" light


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'm guessing Aurora 2 won't work with this?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14193/ex-rad-141/MagiCool_Limited_Edition_Monsta_420360_Triple_120mm_140mm_Xtreme_Performance_Radiator.html


Good lord that thing is crazy......it holds 1.2L of fluid itself it looks like! and yeah I'm guessing aurora isn't the best match with that lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HannaMagi*
> 
> Doing a build with a NXZT Phantom 410 in gunmetal, and an Asus Gryphon. (so it is pretty dark in there. Gonna have to add a lot of white LED's). I have an XSPC Photon 170 Res. It is a tube reservoir with a tube in the middle, that lights up with an led. I like the solid look of the pastels a little better than the X1's. If I put a white led in the res, I would like the fluid to light up a little. Not just block out the light. Does anyone have any experience with an internal light source and the pastels?


Pastel is quite opaque and the photon res will not light it up.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> You can email mayhem's for how to best go about the color you want


BTDT ..... didn't have much luck.


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HannaMagi*
> 
> Doing a build with a NXZT Phantom 410 in gunmetal, and an Asus Gryphon. (so it is pretty dark in there. Gonna have to add a lot of white LED's). I have an XSPC Photon 170 Res. It is a tube reservoir with a tube in the middle, that lights up with an led. I like the solid look of the pastels a little better than the X1's. If I put a white led in the res, I would like the fluid to light up a little. Not just block out the light. Does anyone have any experience with an internal light source and the pastels?


The photons coming from the Photon will not escape the Mayhem.









Seriously, it's opaque, so the only way you'll get anything visible out of the light tube is to under-fill the reservoir so there's a bit o' tube showing above the coolant. Good news is, the Photon 170 is still a quite nice looking reservoir even if it isn't fully lit.

Here's mine with just Deep Red dye and distilled water, which is not opaque, just...dark. White LED is in the tube, and in the dark it glows _very_ faintly.


----------



## DeanW75234

All I can say is WOW! Darlene. I've been busy with work and haven't been following your Stretch build. But lady, it is looking awesome.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> BTDT ..... didn't have much luck.


I may have missed the post on color you want but can you post a picture or HTML code or something for the shade you want and I can give it a go. If you have posted a pic of it previously then can you link it here again?


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeanW75234*
> 
> All I can say is WOW! Darlene. I've been busy with work and haven't been following your Stretch build. But lady, it is looking awesome.


It is indeed. And it's making me feel...inadequate.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I may have missed the post on color you want but can you post a picture or HTML code or something for the shade you want and I can give it a go. If you have posted a pic of it previously then can you link it here again?


The cat in your pic looks so betrayed. XD
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> It is indeed. And it's making me feel...inadequate.


Guess it wouldn't be the first time a women made you feel inadequate *BA-DUM TSS*

_Sorry, but setups like that come along oh so rarely._

In all seriousness can anyone throw me a link to ITDiva's build?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> [...] In all seriousness can anyone throw me a link to ITDiva's build?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/680_20#post_21271969

It's insane.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I may have missed the post on color you want but can you post a picture or HTML code or something for the shade you want and I can give it a go. If you have posted a pic of it previously then can you link it here again?


I was referring to e-mailing Mayems .... had lotta suggestions here ..... color targets are a few pages back w/ samples ... running late on an appointment, will try and link to post when I get back


----------



## pompss

Aurora with uv effect









Here some pics day light




Here a video


----------



## Belial

^ What's it like without UV? I'm not a big fan of UV, you're build looks good and I wonder what it looks like in normal light.

I'm going to be using Tygon E1000 in my loops, both the 1/4 and 3/8ID loops, for consistency (ie tygon for 1/4 and then primochill for 3/8 would look weird imo). Curious on people's experiences with tygon here, particularly the newer ones.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> ^ What's it like without UV? I'm not a big fan of UV, you're build looks good and I wonder what it looks like in normal light.
> 
> I'm going to be using Tygon E1000 in my loops, both the 1/4 and 3/8ID loops, for consistency (ie tygon for 1/4 and then primochill for 3/8 would look weird imo). Curious on people's experiences with tygon here, particularly the newer ones.


i create a fake uv effect on the res adding a 7 red led strip on the back.
I didnt use any uv light or uv coolant. Look awsome in dark and day light with the 7 led strip .
IF you use aurora you should go with primochill advance lrt. Spending 20 bucks will safe u a lot of time and no pasticizer issues.
I hear that tygon tubing had some problems but not sure what type of tubing was.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> i create a fake uv effect on the res adding a 7 red led strip on the back.
> I didnt use any uv light or uv coolant. Look awsome in dark and day light with the 7 led strip .
> IF you use aurora you should go with primochill advance lrt. Spending 20 bucks will safe u a lot of time and no pasticizer issues.
> I hear that tygon tubing had some problems but not sure what type of tubing was.


Sir, look at the tubing sizes he listed, Primochill doesn't make a 1/4" ID tubing.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Sir, look at the tubing sizes he listed, Primochill doesn't make a 1/4" ID tubing.


right i didnt know that

In this case i suggest durelene tubing
I hear is the best

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu1id3o.html


----------



## 01010011

How much blue dye per liter is required to make a dark blue pastel?
And also, when is the Aurora 2 going to be avaible?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *01010011*
> 
> How much blue dye per liter is required to make a dark blue pastel?
> And also, when is the Aurora 2 going to be avaible?


Acc'd the the post by Mayhems, it's going to be phased in as the old aurora sells out of each particular color, so it apparently won't be marketed separately or have any announced availability date.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> So sorry for not being around much Mayhems is leaving me with hardly any time for online chat.
> 
> Some news for you all anyway.
> 
> 1) Aurora 2 testing is now finished. We found it indeed does work 1000 times better than aurora how ever id still avoid using bay reservoirs with it as over time they become an issue.
> 2) *The new Aurora is going to simply be slip streamed into the Aurora line. As the old stuff sells out we will be replenishing it with the new Aurora version.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 3) Because Mayhems Aurora is now totally made from the ground up in our lab it has helped us reduce costs. So starting next year Aurora will have a massive price drop. From £14.99 to £9.99
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4) We will still only say its a short time fluid how ever in testing it does last a lot longer but because certain variants of equipment can drop the life span we cannot guarantee a working life as such. How ever as always we will always replace any fluid you are not happy with.
> 
> There is more news to come but ill need to check a few things first so for now
> 
> I wish you all a very Happy Christmas
> 
> Our shop and support for email will be closed on the following days.
> 
> 25,27,31 Dec 2013
> 1 Jan 2014
> 
> Please remember delivery times will be slower over the holiday season.,
> 
> 4 Pallets of Premix are being prepared to be sent over to USA they will be going by ship so that the USA can now have access to the full premix coolants
> 
> 
> .


----------



## 01010011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Acc'd the the post by Mayhems, it's going to be phased in as the old aurora sells out of each particular color, so it apparently won't be marketed separately or have any announced availability date.


Ok, thanks, so there's not an exact date.
And my other question was:
Is is possible to make a dark blue pastel?
If so how much dye is required?


----------



## MariusJS

VERY much, and I don't think there will be an exact answear to that, it depend on what "Dark" mean too you


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *01010011*
> 
> Ok, thanks, so there's not an exact date.
> And my other question was:
> Is is possible to make a dark blue pastel?
> If so how much dye is required?


Depends on how much fluid you are dying and what shade of dark nuke you want is, you probably will not need more than a single bottle of dye in either case though.


----------



## 01010011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MariusJS*
> 
> VERY much, and I don't think there will be an exact answear to that, it depend on what "Dark" mean too you


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Depends on how much fluid you are dying and what shade of dark nuke you want is, you probably will not need more than a single bottle of dye in either case though.


Thanks for your answers.
It's not easy to describe a color, basically I want a dark blue that matches the bitfenix alchemy extension sleeve.
Anyway I think I'll get two bottles since I have nearly 2 liters of fluid in my loop.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *01010011*
> 
> Thanks for your answers.
> It's not easy to describe a color, basically I want a dark blue that matches the bitfenix alchemy extension sleeve.
> Anyway I think I'll get two bottles since I have nearly 2 liters of fluid in my loop.


Forgot to ask if your base will be white or blue as well?


----------



## MariusJS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *01010011*
> 
> Thanks for your answers.
> It's not easy to describe a color, basically I want a dark blue that matches the bitfenix alchemy extension sleeve.
> Anyway I think I'll get two bottles since I have nearly 2 liters of fluid in my loop.


I want to do about the same, it would be nice, if you post the results...


----------



## wheresstimpy

Hi, starting my first "real" water loop and am getting ready to buy all the cooling lines and fluid, i notice that you guys say not to use primochill. Does that include the hard acrylic tube as well or just the flexible stuff. I didn't think there was plastisizer or anything in the hard acrylic, thanks.


----------



## MariusJS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wheresstimpy*
> 
> Hi, starting my first "real" water loop and am getting ready to buy all the cooling lines and fluid, i notice that you guys say not to use primochill. Does that include the hard acrylic tube as well or just the flexible stuff. I didn't think there was plastisizer or anything in the hard acrylic, thanks.


Acrylic don't use plastiziser, that post was made before Primo rolled out the acrylic


----------



## wheresstimpy

Thanks! just wanted to double check before i buy it all!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MariusJS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wheresstimpy*
> 
> Hi, starting my first "real" water loop and am getting ready to buy all the cooling lines and fluid, i notice that you guys say not to use primochill. Does that include the hard acrylic tube as well or just the flexible stuff. I didn't think there was plastisizer or anything in the hard acrylic, thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Acrylic don't use plastiziser, that post was made before Primo rolled out the acrylic
Click to expand...

+1

But if you were going with flexible tubing, PrimoChill's Advanced LRT was added to the OK to use list on the first post of this topic. It's actually the best / most popular tubing out these days with regards to plasticizer issues.


----------



## 01010011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Forgot to ask if your base will be white or blue as well?


Didn't buy it yet, but I guess I'll pick the light blue pastel and two bottles of blue dye.
I'm not doing it now tho, gonna wait two months, currently I'm running X1 uv-blue.
I asked now 'cause I was curious


----------



## HannaMagi

MARIUS, CYPHON, and CROAK. Thanks for the input guys. Gonna go with a transparent fluid. I still might get some pastel just to give it a try, post the results. Maybe some UV with an UV led. Thanks for the pic Croak.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> ^ What's it like without UV? I'm not a big fan of UV, you're build looks good and I wonder what it looks like in normal light.
> 
> I'm going to be using Tygon E1000 in my loops, both the 1/4 and 3/8ID loops, for consistency (ie tygon for 1/4 and then primochill for 3/8 would look weird imo). Curious on people's experiences with tygon here, particularly the newer ones.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1347354/tygon-user-club

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> IF you use aurora you should go with primochill advance lrt. Spending 20 bucks will safe u a lot of time and no pasticizer issues. I hear that tygon tubing had some problems but not sure what type of tubing was.


Tygon is the the world's premier and I believe oldest supplier of tubing to the laboratory and other major food and "consumption" related industries whre absolute purity of product is required.. They make a wide variety of tubing but WC market is just a blip to them so they don'tr do much to market it. Many other brands of tubing are OEM'd by Tygon.

They do make tubing with plasticizers where highly flexible tubing is required, they also make antimicrobial tubing (Tygon Silver) which eliminates need for biocide or silver kill coil. Best way to get an understanding of what applies to WC wuld be to review the Tygon Users thread.

Tygon B-44-4X is often chosen for Aurora users.....UV oriented folks sometimes go for the Tygon B-44-4X Inner Braid .... E-1000, R-3603 and A-60G are popular choices. It's oft misconstrued I think that E-1000 is plasticizer free, which to my understanding is incorrect. Plasticizers are used to make tubing plastic" aka "flexible". And while E-1000 no longer has DEHP type plasticizers, it does now contain non-DEHP plasticizers.

I use 2475 which is an extremely hard and durable tubing.....not the stuff ya gonna wanna use for a lot of tight bends. But it is extremely durable and being as "hard" as it is, when you drain it, in my experience, it leaves no trace of the fluid left behind. One flush to get and clinging drips out and it's good as new.....let tap water dry in it tho and expect minerals to be left on the inside.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wheresstimpy*
> 
> Hi, starting my first "real" water loop and am getting ready to buy all the cooling lines and fluid, i notice that you guys say not to use primochill. Does that include the hard acrylic tube as well or just the flexible stuff. I didn't think there was plastisizer or anything in the hard acrylic, thanks.


Plasticizer is used to make tubing "plastic" or flexible..... since rigid tubing is ...







.... well.... "rigid", it doesn't need plasticizers.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *01010011*
> 
> Didn't buy it yet, but I guess I'll pick the light blue pastel and two bottles of blue dye.
> I'm not doing it now tho, gonna wait two months, currently I'm running X1 uv-blue.
> I asked now 'cause I was curious


You may want 1 red and 1 blue dye instead of 2 blue. Just a touch of red will really help deepen the color pretty quick while the blue will maintain the blue color.

You can start with the blueberry blue and it works fine, but I tend to prefer starting with the white 9 out of 10 times personally


----------



## Belial

Has anyone here made a dark blue with pastel? There are zero pictures of such online, the only thing I've found was a guy who did dark blue with IDC, and it was more of a royal blue then dark blue. I believe he saidr he used 2-3 bottles, and he mixes the coolant himself (ie IDC, some coolants, etc). If you google/search 'ice dragon dark blue' you should find him.

Mayhem mike told me to go for Mayhem Blueberry + 1 bottle dark blue dye (not blue=deep blue dye). I believe blueberry is just mayhems white + deep blue, probably 2 bottles worth, so starting with white just seems like unnecessarily needing to buy another bottle or two of blue. As I understand you really need a lot of dye for this.


----------



## stickg1

I got impatient waiting for all my parts and just threw this together a few hours ago. Can't wait to get all the appropriate fittings and some yellow pastel!! For now just DI with mayhem's biocide extreme..


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Sir, look at the tubing sizes he listed, Primochill doesn't make a 1/4" ID tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> right i didnt know that
> 
> In this case i suggest durelene tubing
> I hear is the best
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu1id3o.html
Click to expand...

I believe duralene has plasticizer issues like everything else, I'm currently planning to go with E1000 on both my loops for consistency (rather then use advanced primochill on the 3/8 line, despite it being superior). Someone is telling me I should use 2475 though, but yea one of those 2 dehp-plasticizer frees.


----------



## 01010011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Has anyone here made a dark blue with pastel? There are zero pictures of such online, the only thing I've found was a guy who did dark blue with IDC, and it was more of a royal blue then dark blue. I believe he saidr he used 2-3 bottles, and he mixes the coolant himself (ie IDC, some coolants, etc). If you google/search 'ice dragon dark blue' you should find him.
> 
> Mayhem mike told me to go for Mayhem Blueberry + 1 bottle dark blue dye (not blue=deep blue dye). I believe blueberry is just mayhems white + deep blue, probably 2 bottles worth, so starting with white just seems like unnecessarily needing to buy another bottle or two of blue. As I understand you really need a lot of dye for this.


So I'm gonna use blueberry pastel as base and put dark blue dye,
thanks to everyone, I'll post some pics when/if I do this.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> 
> 
> I got impatient waiting for all my parts and just threw this together a few hours ago. Can't wait to get all the appropriate fittings and some yellow pastel!! For now just DI with mayhem's biocide extreme..


The yellow pastel is going to look great in there









I'd single sleeve the PSU as well. I'd do either a yellow/black or yellow/blue theme on the sleeves. Would be sweet


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I believe duralene has plasticizer issues like everything else, I'm currently planning to go with E1000 on both my loops for consistency (rather then use advanced primochill on the 3/8 line, despite it being superior). Someone is telling me I should use 2475 though, but yea one of those 2 dehp-plasticizer frees.


I saw a thread time ago here in this forum with a test of durelene and primochill.
Seems that Durelene has no plasticizer issues.
Personally i dont have exp with that tubing so at the end i dont know for sure.


----------



## M3TAl

Ah, this is annoying... I bought two bottles Mayhems (which I do need both apparently). Just drained my loop running straight distilled water. The measurement came out to about 1.1L water... Barely over that 1L mark. I'll basically have an almost completely unused mixed solution of Ice White







.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ah, this is annoying... I bought two bottles Mayhems (which I do need both apparently). Just drained my loop running straight distilled water. The measurement came out to about 1.1L water... Barely over that 1L mark. I'll basically have an almost completely unused mixed solution of Ice White
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I know how you feel, just be thankful it only needed 1.1L, my STH10 build needed almost 6L.


----------



## capreppy

Question for y'all. Is the yellow pastel going to work with the yellow on the MSI MoBo. I am going with a yellow / black theme.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ah, this is annoying... I bought two bottles Mayhems (which I do need both apparently). Just drained my loop running straight distilled water. The measurement came out to about 1.1L water... Barely over that 1L mark. I'll basically have an almost completely unused mixed solution of Ice White
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You could just dilute it slightly for the extra .1L. That small of a dilution shouldn't be a problem


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ah, this is annoying... I bought two bottles Mayhems (which I do need both apparently). Just drained my loop running straight distilled water. The measurement came out to about 1.1L water... Barely over that 1L mark. I'll basically have an almost completely unused mixed solution of Ice White
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I might just need white pastel soon so if that's the case, I will PM you about it since you are apparently local.


----------



## SirRobinII

Have some Mayhems Pre-Mix X1 UV blue in my loop. It has a nice UV effect <3


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ah, this is annoying... I bought two bottles Mayhems (which I do need both apparently). Just drained my loop running straight distilled water. The measurement came out to about 1.1L water... Barely over that 1L mark. I'll basically have an almost completely unused mixed solution of Ice White
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I drained my loop of distilled water but found that despite tipping and turning, and a drain in the bottom of the bottom rad, I still had quite a bit of water left over ..... most stuck in and around the huge 35x2.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I believe duralene has plasticizer issues like everything else, I'm currently planning to go with E1000 on both my loops for consistency (rather then use advanced primochill on the 3/8 line, despite it being superior). Someone is telling me I should use 2475 though, but yea one of those 2 dehp-plasticizer frees.


DEHP plasticizer free means what it says .... it means it is free of DEHP type plasticizers .... it does not mean it's free of other types of plasticizers. 2475 is an extremely durable, non wetting tubing. Like all tubing and all products in general, it has advantages and disadvantages making it serve well in certain situations and not so well in others. Pick the product that best fits your particular situation.

2475 is great for straight runs and wide turns but, due to its rigidity ..... *and lack of any type of plasticizer whatsoever*..... "plasticizer is what makes tubing "plastic" aka "flexible".......it is a very stiff tube and therefore a very poor choice if you are making tight turns. A 180 degree turn should have the two parts of the tube 4" apart .... with 3/8" ID / 1/2" OD tubing, if you go much tighter than that it will kink and leave a permanent "wrinkle" in the tube.
Quote:


> Definition "plastic": adj. adjective
> 
> 1. Capable of being shaped or formed.
> 
> Definition "plasticizer": n.noun
> 
> 1. Any of various substances added to plastics or other materials to make or keep them soft or pliable.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capreppy*
> 
> Question for y'all. Is the yellow pastel going to work with the yellow on the MSI MoBo. I am going with a yellow / black theme.


Your sig rig is not properly filled out so we don't know what motherboard you are talking about. You can look up people using the yellow pastel and see if it matches. More then likely someone is using a yellow pastel with an msi-yellow board (may not be same board, but brands tend to use same solids over and over so it should be comparable). Heck you'll probably find someone using the exact same board as you with a mayhem yellow, so many people out there you know.

But if it's not exactly right, there's enough dyes out there to change it to what you want. Ask mayhems, they may know exactly what you need for coloring.
Quote:


> DEHP plasticizer free means what it says .... it means it is free of DEHP type plasticizers .... it does not mean it's free of other types of plasticizers. 2475 is an extremely durable, non wetting tubing. Like all tubing and all products in general, it has advantages and disadvantages making it serve well in certain situations and not so well in others. Pick the product that best fits your particular situation.
> 
> 2475 is great for straight runs and wide turns but, due to its rigidity ..... and lack of any type of plasticizer whatsoever..... "plasticizer is what makes tubing "plastic" aka "flexible".......it is a very stiff tube and therefore a very poor choice if you are making tight turns. A 180 degree turn should have the two parts of the tube 4" apart .... with 3/8" ID / 1/2" OD tubing, if you go much tighter than that it will kink and leave a permanent "wrinkle" in the tube.


I'm not sure if 2475 or e1000 would be better for what I need.

This is the kind of bends I plan on having. So the h110 (1/4x3/8 tubing) will be a bit of a stretch from block to res, which rigid is nice, but then there's the length from res to up and over to block that might need to be flexible. That length will all be hidden behind the res/rad until it comes over, so i guess rigid is more important. I'm not really sure. I have some E3603 tubing (not in 1/4x3/8, only larger though) to play with but not knowledgeable enough to know better here.


----------



## Stuntfly02

So been a bit over a month since I posted anything regarding the issue I've been having with my loop. Going to tear my loop down and once I rebuild it I am going to need to flush the loop out. SOOO my issue here is without having to tear water blocks apart what are some things I can use to help get rid of anything that is build up inside the machine. Ive heard that vinegar is one good thing to use, but it can leave some acidic residue so I am thinking that I should run a little distilled with some baking soda to counteract the vinegar after. Then do a final flush with plain distilled water. Wondering if I should worry about running any boiling distilled through the system? Seen a few people recommend it, but I am thinking it is to kill any bacteria present.

A few pics to remind you of the the issue.







So on the first day of this new year I will be tearing down my loop and starting it fresh. I am excited and looking forward to getting my loop to where I don't have to open it up for a while.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> So been a bit over a month since I posted anything regarding the issue I've been having with my loop. Going to tear my loop down and once I rebuild it I am going to need to flush the loop out. SOOO my issue here is without having to tear water blocks apart what are some things I can use to help get rid of anything that is build up inside the machine. Ive heard that vinegar is one good thing to use, but it can leave some acidic residue so I am thinking that I should run a little distilled with some baking soda to counteract the vinegar after. Then do a final flush with plain distilled water. Wondering if I should worry about running any boiling distilled through the system? Seen a few people recommend it, but I am thinking it is to kill any bacteria present.
> 
> A few pics to remind you of the the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So on the first day of this new year I will be tearing down my loop and starting it fresh. I am excited and looking forward to getting my loop to where I don't have to open it up for a while.


I'd go with 1 part lemon juice to 4 parts water instead of vinegar, but that really only get's rid of light scaling.

There shouldn't be any microbes with pastel, but of course there was that issue with the preproduction batch you got.


----------



## cyphon

Performance PCs has their Aurora listed as "*** NEW *** Mayhems Aurora Supernova Concentrate - 250ml", does this mean they are already in the new line of Aurora?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Don't find it on Mayems site


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Performance PCs has their Aurora listed as "*** NEW *** Mayhems Aurora Supernova Concentrate - 250ml", does this mean they are already in the new line of Aurora?


I'd email them first to make sure.


----------



## HannaMagi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Performance PCs has their Aurora listed as "*** NEW *** Mayhems Aurora Supernova Concentrate - 250ml", does this mean they are already in the new line of Aurora?


I don't know. The have all their Mayhem fluids labeled as "New". Even the pastels and X1's. I can not remember if that have always had the "New" listed on them. I agree with ZytheEKS. Defiantly ask them.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Don't find it on Mayems site


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd email them first to make sure.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HannaMagi*
> 
> I don't know. The have all their Mayhem fluids labeled as "New". Even the pastels and X1's. I can not remember if that have always had the "New" listed on them. I agree with ZytheEKS. Defiantly ask them.


Yeah, I sent them an email. I'll let you know what they say. I would be quite surprised if it was, but hey, if could be, lol.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah, I sent them an email. I'll let you know what they say. I would be quite surprised if it was, but hey, if could be, lol.


Uh dude, earlier in this thread a few days back the Mayhems rep said they were in the last stages of trials with it. Pretty sure the PPCS website isn't the most up to date on that. And, I believe "supernova" is the color.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The aurora 2 is under test right now with several testers world wide they have been told to keep quiet and not post info about it. We will leave it with them a good few weeks and they are all using complex systems.
> 
> From my own testing im running it in 4 systems the most complex is running-
> 
> EK CPU block. OC Force Block, 7970 Block, Phobya Bay res with the inlet and out let port 1/2 way up the back of the res and a Phobya Tube res, D5 and aqua computer flow monitor and quad pass 360mm rad on its side (made by us) and finally some really bad tubing This system has now been running on off for over 1 month with very little drop out. The other system comprise of different set ups as well to see how things go. Other test systems have EK spin bay res, and several other bay reservoirs.
> 
> Weve noticed it is best to run the pump between 3 and 5, The Aurora 2 effect picks up much faster than in the past. How ever we wish for it to last much longer but we've been analyzing the proprieties of the Aurora 2 (after we've done out bit to it and crushed it down further) and it will have a limited life span depending on which equipment you use and how much abuse the aurora gets. It will be a lot longer than Aurora though.
> 
> The temps are 0.5 to 0.8c above water. Every thing that failed Aurora in the past is being tested to see what it can do.


Here is the post.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Uh dude, earlier in this thread a few days back the Mayhems rep said they were in the last stages of trials with it. Pretty sure the PPCS website isn't the most up to date on that. And, I believe "supernova" is the color.


He said that it was finished and they were slip streaming them in, so new shipments will be the new stuff. He also said that they were shipping 4 pallets of fluids to the US.

Even still, I would be surprised that PPCs would have it in and listed already, which is why I posted.

Excerpt from Mayhem's post (http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/4440#post_21440272)
Quote:


> 1) Aurora 2 testing is now finished. We found it indeed does work 1000 times better than aurora how ever id still avoid using bay reservoirs with it as over time they become an issue.
> 2) The new Aurora is going to simply be slip streamed into the Aurora line. As the old stuff sells out we will be replenishing it with the new Aurora version.
> 3) Because Mayhems Aurora is now totally made from the ground up in our lab it has helped us reduce costs. So starting next year Aurora will have a massive price drop. From £14.99 to £9.99 thumb.gif
> 4) We will still only say its a short time fluid how ever in testing it does last a lot longer but because certain variants of equipment can drop the life span we cannot guarantee a working life as such. How ever as always we will always replace any fluid you are not happy with.
> 
> ...
> 
> 4 Pallets of Premix are being prepared to be sent over to USA they will be going by ship so that the USA can now have access to the full premix coolants.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Here is the post.


That was not his latest, the one above is the latest


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> He said that it was finished and they were slip streaming them in, so new shipments will be the new stuff. He also said that they were shipping 4 pallets of fluids to the US.
> 
> Even still, I would be surprised that PPCs would have it in and listed already, which is why I posted.
> 
> Excerpt from Mayhem's post.
> 
> 2) The new Aurora is going to simply be slip streamed into the Aurora line. *As the old stuff sells out we will be replenishing it with the new Aurora version.*


Did he say how big a stock they have to go through before the old is "sold out"?

I figure, even if they were all sold out, it will still take several weeks to a month before it's available at most of their retailers due to shipping and such. And the new stuff won't go out till the old stuff is GONE.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Did he say how big a stock they have to go through before the old is "sold out"?
> 
> I figure, even if they were all sold out, it will still take several weeks to a month before it's available at most of their retailers due to shipping and such. And the new stuff won't go out till the old stuff is GONE.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Here is the post.


That would depend on several things, namely the vendor stock and what date the slip stream begins. I have no idea what PPCs stock looks like, so their last order may have gone thru with the new stuff. Their last order could have been months ago or days.

While unlikely, it is also possible they could eat the cost on the old stuff to offer the new if they thought it could drive sales.

Way too many unknowns, which again, was why I was seeing if anyone knew anything I didn't


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That would depend on several things, namely the vendor stock and what date the slip stream begins. I have no idea what PPCs stock looks like, so their last order may have gone thru with the new stuff. Their last order could have been months ago or days.
> 
> While unlikely, it is also possible they could eat the cost on the old stuff to offer the new if they thought it could drive sales.
> 
> Way too many unknowns, which again, was why I was seeing if anyone knew anything I didn't


Gotcha, ok.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah, I sent them an email. I'll let you know what they say. I would be quite surprised if it was, but hey, if could be, lol.


I highly doubt it's the new stuff, Mick said Mayhems had shipped 4 pallets of premixed coolants to the U.S., that all says concentrates. The facts don't line up unless Mick sent out concentrates and didn't mention it.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I highly doubt it's the new stuff, Mick said Mayhems had shipped 4 pallets of premixed coolants to the U.S., that all says concentrates. The facts don't line up unless Mick sent out concentrates and didn't mention it.


I doubt it too, but hey, doesn't hurt to ask, lol. I also asked if they knew when they would be getting it in if it was no the new stuff


----------



## stickg1

Yo, everything is *NEW* on PPCs, lol. If it's not "*NEW*" then its "*HOT*"

They dicked me over by sending me Primochill PRO instead of Advanced LRT one time, and their site is such a pain to navigate, yet I still buy from them because the prices are decent and it's the closest retailer to me so shipping is cheaper and faster. I wish I were stronger, lol, but I needs me parts!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yo, everything is *NEW* on PPCs, lol. If it's not "*NEW*" then its "*HOT*"
> 
> They dicked me over by sending me Primochill PRO instead of Advanced LRT one time, and their site is such a pain to navigate, yet I still buy from them because the prices are decent and it's the closest retailer to me so shipping is cheaper and faster. I wish I were stronger, lol, but I needs me parts!


Lol, yeah. I do half and half between them and Frozen. Frozen is faster, but PPCs is cheaper....fair tradeoff I suppose, lol.

PPCs did get back to me and said that they don't have the new version yet, but would try to find out when they will be getting it and let me know. Pretty much what I expected, but since it was listed 'NEW' I was hopeful


----------



## pompss

any difference from the old aurora and the new one (not aurora 2) ??


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> any difference from the old aurora and the new one (not aurora 2) ??


Aurora 2 is the "new" one we are talking about.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> any difference from the old aurora and the new one (not aurora 2) ??


There is no "New" aurora that isn't the Aurora 2. I looks like PPCs added all the new aurora info to their website, without having the new product quite yet. The Aurora 2, or Aurora + is going to be a premix if I'm not mistaken, but we'll see.


----------



## Kyashan

Hello guys, I'm trying to create the same additive color of this picture, I was thinking to Mayhems Dye UV-Clear Blue added Mayhems Biocide Extreme, this is the first time I use dyes and do not know how to work the mixture, I know some dyes can stain and block. Thanks and sorry for my bad english


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyashan*
> 
> Hello guys, I'm trying to create the same additive color of this picture, I was thinking to Mayhems Dye UV-Clear Blue added Mayhems Biocide Extreme, this is the first time I use dyes and do not know how to work the mixture, I know some dyes can stain and block. Thanks and sorry for my bad english


The pic you posted is not UV.

The UV clear blue is clear (colorless) until you put it under black lights, which makes it glow blue. If you want the blue color like in the pic and do not indeed to put in black lights, you will want just the blue dye or ocean blue dye. You add 1 drop at a time to the water until it is the color you want.

The biocides extreme you will only need a couple drops of as well. Follow the instructions with it on how much you need to add.


----------



## Kyashan

"Mayhems Dye Deep Blue" this additive is good? On the net I found some pictures, if the result is the same would be the best solution to create various shades of blue


----------



## DrAlpenfohn

Hello good people, here is a few pics of one of my setups where i used Mayhems Pastel.

I ordered two litres, one Sunset Yellow and one Grape Red since i wanted something to match the "theme" (orange that is).

I got three litres, one extra Sunset Yellow (didn't complain since it made the experiment a whole lot easier).
So i started mixing and here is the result:

Started in a more "delicate" way mixing in a glass with a spoon (later on i did it more "on the fly"







.


A ready to use bottle of premium home cooked bottle of the doctors special recipe haha.


Let the madness begin....


I was getting there....


Mixing like a madman......










And to round this post up, a pic of one of the configurations (man, there are too many options to choose from haha).


Glad i found this thread, Mayhems Pastel is magic, pure magic (well, at least for a little while that is







).


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyashan*
> 
> "Mayhems Dye Deep Blue" this additive is good? On the net I found some pictures, if the result is the same would be the best solution to create various shades of blue
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You can use deep blue dye for it. I think like 1 drop per liter will get you the light blue you posted.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrAlpenfohn*
> 
> Hello good people, here is a few pics of one of my setups where i used Mayhems Pastel.
> 
> I ordered two litres, one Sunset Yellow and one Grape Red since i wanted something to match the "theme" (orange that is).
> 
> I got three litres, one extra Sunset Yellow (didn't complain since it made the experiment a whole lot easier).
> So i started mixing and here is the result:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Started in a more "delicate" way mixing in a glass with a spoon (later on i did it more "on the fly"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> A ready to use bottle of premium home cooked bottle of the doctors special recipe haha.
> 
> 
> Let the madness begin....
> 
> 
> I was getting there....
> 
> 
> Mixing like a madman......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And to round this post up, a pic of one of the configurations (man, there are too many options to choose from haha).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad i found this thread, Mayhems Pastel is magic, pure magic (well, at least for a little while that is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


HE'S A MADMAN!!!! A MADMAN!!!

I like the end result. Curious why you didn't just dye the white pastel directly to the color you wanted tho?


----------



## DrAlpenfohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You can use deep blue dye for it. I think like 1 drop per liter will get you the light blue you posted.
> HE'S A MADMAN!!!! A MADMAN!!!
> 
> I like the end result. Curious why you didn't just dye the white pastel directly to the color you wanted tho?


Haha... yeah one better watchout for those mad crazy blending skills....

nah kidding aside, i thought it would look pretty close to the Cougar fans if mixing red and yellow.
It was close enough i guess


----------



## Kyashan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You can use deep blue dye for it. I think like 1 drop per liter will get you the light blue you posted


Thanks for the info


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrAlpenfohn*
> 
> Haha... yeah one better watchout for those mad crazy blending skills....
> 
> nah kidding aside, i thought it would look pretty close to the Cougar fans if mixing red and yellow.
> It was close enough i guess


Mmm, Cougars. Cougars everywhere. Are you running them on a PWM splitter? I've got 10 of them but apparently 2 don't play nice on PWM. One makes loud clicking noises and the other makes quiet noises, so I took those two off and put them on the fan controller.


----------



## stickg1

I intended on getting some sunset yellow pastel. Not sure if I want to still because I change my loop around so much and don't want to have to constantly be ordering more or trying to salvage what I drain. I might just put a little dye in the water but not sure what color. While my build is all black and yellow, I think maybe a different color for the water could potentially be attractive. If I decide to just use yellow dye, do you think it will end up looking like urine? Because I'd probably want to avoid the urine look, lol.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I intended on getting some sunset yellow pastel. Not sure if I want to still because I change my loop around so much and don't want to have to constantly be ordering more or trying to salvage what I drain. I might just put a little dye in the water but not sure what color. While my build is all black and yellow, I think maybe a different color for the water could potentially be attractive. If I decide to just use yellow dye, do you think it will end up looking like urine? Because I'd probably want to avoid the urine look, lol.


Dude, I think blue would look sweet in there. I'd go with a light blue like the other guy was just asking about lol


----------



## DrAlpenfohn

A fellow gentleman with good taste i see .

Lovely fans, extremely effective but it seems to me that they have become fashion (yet).

Oh yeah, i have them spinning like the wind on a splitter, 1-5 and an extra 1-2 splitter on top of that one to get all six mounted on the radiator sing in harmony,

Hmm, clicking noise you say?
Not good, especially with those lovely fans, have you tried different speeds?
Perhaps shift them around on that splitter and see if those two are bad or not.

Hope it will work, perhaps you still have warranty left?
They dont come cheap so they should dance flawlessy


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Dude, I think blue would look sweet in there. I'd go with a light blue like the other guy was just asking about lol


I was thinking that too, ocean blue or what?


----------



## rickyman0319

do u guys know any dual bay reservoirs that is compatible with mayhem products?


----------



## Stuntfly02

Well the loop has been rebuilt and now in the process of leak testing. In the end I am almost 100% certain I was having a plasticiser issue. Most of the residue was chalky and there was a bunch of it near my drain valve and once it dried was white as chalk. I will be sending Mick all the tubing from the loop for him to confirm what it is.

So here is a teaser shot for right now. Will post more later once everything is running.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I was thinking that too, ocean blue or what?


Ocean or deep blue would work. Prly only need a drop or two of either
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> do u guys know any dual bay reservoirs that is compatible with mayhem products?


The only fluid that has trouble with bay res is aurora. I would recommend that you go with one of the x1 premixes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Well the loop has been rebuilt and now in the process of leak testing. In the end I am almost 100% certain I was having a plasticiser issue. Most of the residue was chalky and there was a bunch of it near my drain valve and once it dried was white as chalk. I will be sending Mick all the tubing from the loop for him to confirm what it is.
> 
> So here is a teaser shot for right now. Will post more later once everything is running.


Ya, it did seem like plasticizer. Will be good to know what mayhem says, however. New construction is looking good and with the acrylic you definitely won't have to worry about plasticizer


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrAlpenfohn*
> 
> A fellow gentleman with good taste i see .
> 
> Lovely fans, extremely effective but it seems to me that they have become fashion (yet).
> 
> Oh yeah, i have them spinning like the wind on a splitter, 1-5 and an extra 1-2 splitter on top of that one to get all six mounted on the radiator sing in harmony,
> 
> Hmm, clicking noise you say?
> Not good, especially with those lovely fans, have you tried different speeds?
> Perhaps shift them around on that splitter and see if those two are bad or not.
> 
> Hope it will work, perhaps you still have warranty left?
> They dont come cheap so they should dance flawlessy


It's just those two fans, and only when on PWM. They're just fine on the fan controller. Warranty is gone... painted them white. Don't get me wrong I liked the black and orange with a black case but I'm going for a black&white build.

Had a leak last night too







. I turn the Jingway on & off sometimes, also run it different speeds since it's on a fan controller. Apparently constantly doing that messes with the seal of the o-ring. Had a problem with the same fitting in the initial leak test. Turns out the plastic threading on the Jingway pump is messed up and the fitting I was using had short threads so it would only seal 100% sometimes. Switched to a barb with longer threads but it wont screw in straight. Even so I tightened it down as much as I could and leak tested. Haven't had a leak yet.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> It's just those two fans, and only when on PWM. They're just fine on the fan controller. Warranty is gone... painted them white. Don't get me wrong I liked the black and orange with a black case but I'm going for a black&white build.
> 
> Had a leak last nigh too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . From the same fitting I had problem with in the inital leak test. Turns out the plastic threading on the Jingway pump is messed up and the fitting I was using had short threads. Switched to a barb with longer threads but it wont screw in straight. Even so I tightened it down as much as I could and leak tested. Haven't had a leak yet.


Please keep the topics in this thread pertaining to Mayhems products. Thread jacking is not cool man, not cool


----------



## M3TAl

If it makes you feel better that's Ice White right there. And it smells weird, can't put my finger on it. Reminds me of something when I was a little kid.


----------



## stickg1

Smelt like latex paint to me...


----------



## M3TAl

Was using latex paint ~2 months ago, didn't remind me of that. It's really bothering me lol. Just can't quite figure out what it is but it smells so familiar.

Apparently I've got a super nose. I'm always the first to smell things and sometimes those are things other people don't smell at all.


----------



## DrAlpenfohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> It's just those two fans, and only when on PWM. They're just fine on the fan controller. Warranty is gone... painted them white. Don't get me wrong I liked the black and orange with a black case but I'm going for a black&white build.
> 
> Had a leak last night too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I turn the Jingway on & off sometimes, also run it different speeds since it's on a fan controller. Apparently constantly doing that messes with the seal of the o-ring. Had a problem with the same fitting in the initial leak test. Turns out the plastic threading on the Jingway pump is messed up and the fitting I was using had short threads so it would only seal 100% sometimes. Switched to a barb with longer threads but it wont screw in straight. Even so I tightened it down as much as I could and leak tested. Haven't had a leak yet.


Seems strange but as long as they spin so...

Painted them white? Would love to see some sweet pictures of that, sounds interesting.

What fittings are you using? All my fittings are EKWB except for two Alphacool Y-connectors which both had leaks (at the moment they are being used as fillports/ventilationports), in my new order there are a few Bitspower though, heard that they are the bomb.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Happy New Year Mayhem Users.


----------



## DrAlpenfohn

WOW man! That beautiful thing right there is nothing but pure magic.

Excellent work!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrAlpenfohn*
> 
> WOW man! That beautiful thing right there is nothing but pure magic.
> 
> Excellent work!










..


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrAlpenfohn*
> 
> Seems strange but as long as they spin so...
> 
> Painted them white? Would love to see some sweet pictures of that, sounds interesting.
> 
> What fittings are you using? All my fittings are EKWB except for two Alphacool Y-connectors which both had leaks (at the moment they are being used as fillports/ventilationports), in my new order there are a few Bitspower though, heard that they are the bomb.


System isn't done yet. Need a few adapters/extensions so the case side panels will actually fit. Also adding mosfet and northbridge block. Fittings are Monsoon compressions and a bunch of random 1/2" barbs I got used for cheap. The barbs are only in places that aren't visible.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Happy New Year Mayhem Users.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work! You got a build log?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Nice work! You got a build log?


Yep. Electric Orange / linked in Sig.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> System isn't done yet. Need a few adapters/extensions so the case side panels will actually fit. Also adding mosfet and northbridge block. Fittings are Monsoon compressions and a bunch of random 1/2" barbs I got used for cheap. The barbs are only in places that aren't visible.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What about those Koolance 90* compressions?


----------



## M3TAl

Still waiting on those blocks to get here Wednesday, so they don't count yet







Hopefully it works out how I imagined it in my head lol. Ordered two more of those same koolance 90 compressions with the blocks.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Whats the operating temperature of Mayhem's Patel coolants? Can it be used in environments where the liquid temperature reaches up to 50C or 60C?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Lol, yeah. I do half and half between them and Frozen. Frozen is faster, but PPCs is cheaper....fair tradeoff I suppose, lol.


I haven't found a significant difference in price anywhere. Made a spreadsheet of 5 sources for all the stuff and had 68 separate items for my build, not including components, FCPU had 66 of them ,,,,PPCs had about 40.... total price advantage favoring PPC for the 40 was $6-8 as I recall ..... but shipping differences erased it. Last 2 items got from amazon.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Whats the operating temperature of Mayhem's Patel coolants? Can it be used in environments where the liquid temperature reaches up to 50C or 60C?


From Mayhems site ... this is all that's said about temps
Quote:


> -35c freezing point
> Boiling Point : up to 100° C (pressure dependent)


Also, this should be carefully read as I have seen many systems ignoring these limitations and recommendations

http://mayhems.co.uk/front/aurora-guide.html#.Usn0lbSwXYx


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Whats the operating temperature of Mayhem's Patel coolants? Can it be used in environments where the liquid temperature reaches up to 50C or 60C?


The boiling point is 95C (pressure dependent of course), so liquid at 50-60C under normal type pressures should be fine. It is a nano fluid that I believe should start performing better than water at higher temps.

If you do not mind me asking, what are you doing that is getting liquid temps in that range?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The boiling point is 95C (pressure dependent of course), so liquid at 50-60C under normal type pressures should be fine. It is a nano fluid that I believe should start performing better than water at higher temps.
> 
> 
> 
> If you do not mind me asking, *what are you doing that is getting liquid temps in that range?*


I was wondering the same thing.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The boiling point is 95C (pressure dependent of course), so liquid at 50-60C under normal type pressures should be fine. It is a nano fluid that I believe should start performing better than water at higher temps.
> 
> If you do not mind me asking, what are you doing that is getting liquid temps in that range?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I was wondering the same thing.


He has 3 GTX 780s, and an i7 3960x. There's a LOT of things that could give him high temps with 1200watts of heat being pushed out into a single loop. Insufficient radspace would be my guess, but I don't know what's in his custom loop so I can't say for sure.


----------



## Stuntfly02

All leak tested and running smoothly. But I am going to have to redo one of the runs. I know for a fact its causing major restriction and I should of know it was going to from the start.


----------



## M3TAl

Looks awesome


----------



## rickyman0319

what kind of light do u use?


----------



## cyphon

Looks freaking sweet stuntfly! And I'm not a big fan of UV







. I have liked every build using the lime green tho....hmmmmmmmmm

The tube shouldn't be TOO restricting. Looks like you have a single DDC? Is that correct? If so, I'd add another DDC or replace it with a D5
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what kind of light do u use?


He has pastel uv lime green fluid and is using uv lights to make the fluid glow.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looks freaking sweet stuntfly! And I'm not a big fan of UV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have liked every build using the lime green tho....hmmmmmmmmm
> 
> The tube shouldn't be TOO restricting. Looks like you have a single DDC? Is that correct? If so, I'd add another DDC or replace it with a D5
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> what kind of light do u use?
> 
> 
> 
> He has pastel uv lime *Yellow* fluid and is using uv lights to make the fluid glow.
Click to expand...

I may think about adding a second pump to the mix. There is room there right next to the main pump. I am mainly just noticing the difference between when I had the flexible tube versus the acrylic. I am seeing much less movement in the reservior. That could also be due to how I have the input on the reservoir going in also. I'll see how things go a 10+ shipping fix is much easier than 80+ another pump top and another pack of fittings plus the acrylic. Making that connection from the pump to the Radiator was not the easiest, but I managed.

And yes I have 1 30cm UV light strip on the top of the case and then there are 6 4" Cold Cathode UV lights scattered around the rest of the machine. I may end up moving some of them or removing some of them. Certain parts are not as lit up as I would like them to be and I'm sure I can easily fix that.

I agree that most of the UV builds I have seen I have not been happy with cause to be honest they either have way too many lights or overpowering colors. The blue sleeving I am using is nowhere near as uv reactive as the old stuff I had but it does the job well and accents the glow from the green. The nice thing is that durring the day its mostly yellow since you can't see the UV effect when there is too much light.


----------



## rickyman0319

where to buy the uv light stuff? PPC , do they have it?

what is it called?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> where to buy the uv light stuff? PPC , do they have it?
> 
> what is it called?


Yes, just look in their cathodes, they are the UV ones. They also make led versions, but those are not as strong.

You will want one of Mayhems uv reactive fluids and clear tube as well


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> where to buy the uv light stuff? PPC , do they have it?
> 
> what is it called?


The Cold cathode lights are made my Logisys. Ya PPC or Frozen CPU will have them. Just look under Cold Cathode Florescent Tube or CCFL depending on the site you are looking at. They generally come in a 2 pack depending on the lenght. Longer ones in packs of 1. There is also UV LED lights but you have to be careful with LED lighting. It can create a washed out effect with the light where cold cathodes produce a more ambient light.

An example of my LED strip when it was brand new vs the cold cathodes I used to use in the previous revision of this build.


----------



## Eco28

Hi all,
I am fairly new to water cooling and I'm about to set up my first LCed rig. I have bought 1 liter of Mayhems X1 Clear premix and was wondering in case it won't be enough liquid for me loop would it hurt to just add some distilled to fill it up (lets say around 100mil) or would X1 lose it's characteristics and I could run into algae or corrosion problems? Also is it important to do leak test / loop flush with distilled, drain it and then fill it with Mayhems premix or is it safe to use premix at start? Radiators were flushed from all the residue already.
Thanks for all the tips and answers.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eco28*
> 
> Hi all,
> I am fairly new to water cooling and I'm about to set up my first LCed rig. I have bought 1 liter of Mayhems X1 Clear premix and was wondering in case it won't be enough liquid for me loop would it hurt to just add some distilled to fill it up (lets say around 100mil) or would X1 lose it's characteristics and I could run into algae or corrosion problems? Also is it important to do leak test / loop flush with distilled, drain it and then fill it with Mayhems premix or is it safe to use premix at start? Radiators were flushed from all the residue already.
> Thanks for all the tips and answers.


As long as the rads were completely flushed, you will likely be ok to put it directly in. You always need to leak test the loop....always. I typically recommend running some DI water for the leaktest, then draining and putting your real fluid in, but you can leak test with your X1 if you need.

I do not recommend diluting the premix, however, the 100ml or less probably will not be too bad.


----------



## Eco28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> As long as the rads were completely flushed, you will likely be ok to put it directly in. You always need to leak test the loop....always. I typically recommend running some DI water for the leaktest, then draining and putting your real fluid in, but you can leak test with your X1 if you need.
> 
> I do not recommend diluting the premix, however, the 100ml or less probably will not be too bad.


Thanks! You have a point, I just didn't know for sure since some say it's always best to flush your whole system before even running typical leak test.
I just don't know whether my 1 liter is enough or not. I have 360 XT45 and UT60 240 alphacool rads, EK CPU block and two EK GPU blocks for gtx670s with EK D5 pump 140res combo. I can't fathom how much liquid I need. My rough napkin math says I should be just ok.








Apologise for my cranky english, not my native language.
Ps. already in love with this forum. Possibly already additced to it


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eco28*
> 
> Thanks! You have a point, I just didn't know for sure since some say it's always best to flush your whole system before even running typical leak test.
> I just don't know whether my 1 liter is enough or not. I have 360 XT45 and UT60 240 alphacool rads, EK CPU block and two EK GPU blocks for gtx670s with EK D5 pump 140res combo. I can't fathom how much liquid I need. My rough napkin math says I should be just ok.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologise for my cranky english, not my native language.
> Ps. already in love with this forum. Possibly already additced to it


Gonna be cutting it close with 1L....I'd buy a second bottle just to be safe. You can store them for like 3yr in the bottle and it is still ok.

And yes, this forum is very addicting


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eco28*
> 
> Hi all,
> I am fairly new to water cooling and I'm about to set up my first LCed rig. I have bought 1 liter of Mayhems X1 Clear premix and was wondering in case it won't be enough liquid for me loop would it hurt to just add some distilled to fill it up (lets say around 100mil) or would X1 lose it's characteristics and I could run into algae or corrosion problems? Also is it important to do leak test / loop flush with distilled, drain it and then fill it with Mayhems premix or is it safe to use premix at start? Radiators were flushed from all the residue already.
> Thanks for all the tips and answers.


I'd suggest running w/ pure DW for a cupla days ..... then when ya ready to add the X1, drain and measure the amount that comes out and plan your mix accordingly.

I'd recommend against reusing the fluid..... I ran 5 gpm thru my rads for an hour each....what I didn't think of was screwing in ya fittings into your painted components results in both ya fittings and rads, shedding some pain flakes. If ya gonna put back, I'd filter it first..... but i don't see the point in trying to save 19 cents worth of distilled water.


----------



## Balanar

I want to grab some Aurora from PPC or FrozenPC as part of a larger order but the news of a new and improved version has got me waiting. I wouldn't mind the wait except that as per Mayhem's last communication, the newer version will not be sold as such but instead just replace the older version of Aurora correct? That would leave me with no clear way of knowing exactly what I will be getting even if I wait.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balanar*
> 
> I want to grab some Aurora from PPC or FrozenPC as part of a larger order but the news of a new and improved version has got me waiting. I wouldn't mind the wait except that as per Mayhem's last communication, the newer version will not be sold as such but instead just replace the older version of Aurora correct? That would leave me with no clear way of knowing exactly what I will be getting even if I wait.


Email PPCs or FCPU. I have a feeling once they get them in stock they will likely re-purpose the rest of the older stuff, and strictly sell Aurora+, as it would boost sales. If nothing else I'm sure once they have it in stock they will take special requests to ship out the newer stuff instead.

E-mail them asking when it will be in.


----------



## Balanar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Email PPCs or FCPU. I have a feeling once they get them in stock they will likely re-purpose the rest of the older stuff, and strictly sell Aurora+, as it would boost sales. If nothing else I'm sure once they have it in stock they will take special requests to ship out the newer stuff instead.
> 
> E-mail them asking when it will be in.


Thanks for the reply. Yeah I've done just that and haven't received a reply yet but wanted to ask here in case there was other news I was unaware of.

Well I'm sure you know the feeling of impatience when you have close to a thousand in watercooling parts just waiting to be shipped to you haha.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Email PPCs or FCPU. I have a feeling once they get them in stock they will likely re-purpose the rest of the older stuff, and strictly sell Aurora+, as it would boost sales. If nothing else I'm sure once they have it in stock they will take special requests to ship out the newer stuff instead.
> 
> E-mail them asking when it will be in.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balanar*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. Yeah I've done just that and haven't received a reply yet but wanted to ask here in case there was other news I was unaware of.
> 
> Well I'm sure you know the feeling of impatience when you have close to a thousand in watercooling parts just waiting to be shipped to you haha.


I spoke with Duke at PPC and he spoke with Mayhem.

It looks like they are not sending the new stuff until the old stock is out. They are not shipping it out on request it does not look like.

From messing around with PPCs site to see when the backorder thing came up, it looks like they have 20-30 stocked for most Aurora's. FCPU if I remember right had around 50 stocked for them. I doubt either company would eat the cost of that much inventory, so I am not sure how long it will take for them to get a new order in for the new stuff. Especially since the new stuff has been announced and fewer people are willing to order the old, lol

I just ordered some of the old for my WIP. I feel pretty confident in the 6mo or so when I need to swap it out, the new stuff will be readily available and I will just grab that. The loop I am planning is simple enough that there shouldn't be any issues with the old.


----------



## Balanar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I spoke with Duke at PPC and he spoke with Mayhem.
> 
> It looks like they are not sending the new stuff until the old stock is out. They are not shipping it out on request it does not look like.
> 
> From messing around with PPCs site to see when the backorder thing came up, it looks like they have 20-30 stocked for most Aurora's. FCPU if I remember right had around 50 stocked for them. I doubt either company would eat the cost of that much inventory, so I am not sure how long it will take for them to get a new order in for the new stuff. Especially since the new stuff has been announced and fewer people are willing to order the old, lol
> 
> I just ordered some of the old for my WIP. I feel pretty confident in the 6mo or so when I need to swap it out, the new stuff will be readily available and I will just grab that. The loop I am planning is simple enough that there shouldn't be any issues with the old.


Hmm this information makes me reconsider waiting. Could I pick your brain on whether the Aurora effect will last for ~ 6 months on this setup:

- EK Supremacy CPU block
- 1x 240mm Alphacool ST30 rad
- 1x 360mm Alphacool UT60 rad
- 1x Aquacomputer 780Ti waterblock
- 1x XSPC Photon Res
- 1x Aquacomputer D5 pump

In the worst case scenario I might still go ahead because I believe the coolant will function fine even after the effect drops out correct?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balanar*
> 
> Hmm this information makes me reconsider waiting. Could I pick your brain on whether the Aurora effect will last for ~ 6 months on this setup:
> 
> - EK Supremacy CPU block
> - 1x 240mm Alphacool ST30 rad
> - 1x 360mm Alphacool UT60 rad
> - 1x Aquacomputer 780Ti waterblock
> - 1x XSPC Photon Res
> - 1x Aquacomputer D5 pump
> 
> In the worst case scenario I might still go ahead because I believe the coolant will function fine even after the effect drops out correct?


You should be ok as long as you do not use a bunch of 90 degrees and tight bends. I recommend giving the Aurora wiki a good read http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/aurora-guide.html


----------



## lowfiwhiteguy

Hi Mayhems thread:

I use a ethylene-glycol based coolant. It works well, but it's sort of messy when filling (leaves white marks everywhere when it dries), smells sort of like fish and maple syrup (?????) and it's toxic. What does Mayhems have for someone who wants a no-dye, clear concentrate to add to distilled water to make coolant? Does it have anti-corrosive properties like ethylene glycol as well?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfiwhiteguy*
> 
> Hi Mayhems thread:
> 
> I use a ethylene-glycol based coolant. It works well, but it's sort of messy when filling (leaves white marks everywhere when it dries), smells sort of like fish and maple syrup (?????) and it's toxic. What does Mayhems have for someone who wants a no-dye, clear concentrate to add to distilled water to make coolant? Does it have anti-corrosive properties like ethylene glycol as well?


There is the X1 clear that is no-dye and is glycol free. It has all biocides and anti-corrosives in it.. Just add the concentrate to some pure water and fill your loop








Here is the X1: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=34058


----------



## Eco28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'd suggest running w/ pure DW for a cupla days ..... then when ya ready to add the X1, drain and measure the amount that comes out and plan your mix accordingly.
> 
> I'd recommend against reusing the fluid..... I ran 5 gpm thru my rads for an hour each....what I didn't think of was screwing in ya fittings into your painted components results in both ya fittings and rads, shedding some pain flakes. If ya gonna put back, I'd filter it first..... but i don't see the point in trying to save 19 cents worth of distilled water.


I am going to do that this way. I would rather not reuse fluid and it's a good idea to test it all with DW first (just in case). This will also give me an answer of much fluid I do actually need. I will gladly shelf out for another liter of premixed X1, thing is I usually get 2-3 weeks of delivery time and that puts me a bit off. Just can't wait to "launch this ship" although better be patient and make it right.

Ps. when running on DW for 2-3 days is it necessary to add kill coil or anything?

@JackNaylorPE @cyphon thank you!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eco28*
> 
> I am going to do that this way. I would rather not reuse fluid and it's a good idea to test it all with DW first (just in case). This will also give me an answer of much fluid I do actually need. I will gladly shelf out for another liter of premixed X1, thing is I usually get 2-3 weeks of delivery time and that puts me a bit off. Just can't wait to "launch this ship" although better be patient and make it right.
> 
> Ps. when running on DW for 2-3 days is it necessary to add kill coil or anything?
> 
> @JackNaylorPE @cyphon thank you!


You will probably be ok for a short period like that. Also, if you added anything (coil, biocides, etc), you'd have to completely flush everything again before using pastel/x1/aurora/xt1


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balanar*
> 
> Hmm this information makes me reconsider waiting. Could I pick your brain on whether the Aurora effect will last for ~ 6 months on this setup:
> 
> - EK Supremacy CPU block
> - 1x 240mm Alphacool ST30 rad
> - 1x 360mm Alphacool UT60 rad
> - 1x Aquacomputer 780Ti waterblock
> - 1x XSPC Photon Res
> - 1x Aquacomputer D5 pump
> 
> In the worst case scenario I might still go ahead because I believe the coolant will function fine even after the effect drops out correct?


1. Have you read the wiki ?

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/aurora-guide.html#.UsxPHLT9zuE

2. The "dropping out" effect appears to be greatly exaggerated. For example....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7eboct_ckQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eco28*
> 
> I am going to do that this way. I would rather not reuse fluid and it's a good idea to test it all with DW first (just in case). This will also give me an answer of much fluid I do actually need. I will gladly shelf out for another liter of premixed X1, thing is I usually get 2-3 weeks of delivery time and that puts me a bit off. Just can't wait to "launch this ship" although better be patient and make it right.
> 
> Ps. when running on DW for 2-3 days is it necessary to add kill coil or anything?


One thing that I was disappointed in ....with the DW and single port top I had water coming in the top of the res and a 1" air gab which created some movement and bubbles in the res....which was actually visually pleasing .... switching to the multi-port w/ fill tube, eliminated the bubbles and the surfactant in the Mayhems kills all remaining turbulence


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balanar*
> 
> Hmm this information makes me reconsider waiting. Could I pick your brain on whether the Aurora effect will last for ~ 6 months on this setup:
> 
> - EK Supremacy CPU block
> - 1x 240mm Alphacool ST30 rad
> - 1x 360mm Alphacool UT60 rad
> - 1x Aquacomputer 780Ti waterblock
> - 1x XSPC Photon Res
> - 1x Aquacomputer D5 pump
> 
> In the worst case scenario I might still go ahead because I believe the coolant will function fine even after the effect drops out correct?


not only is there a dropping effect, but the crystals actually get broken down by the pump until they are destroyed completely and non existent.

Auora is literally for a one time use take pics, vids then you have to flush the system like crazy to get all the crystals out of the loop and hopefully you didnt damage your system due to contaminiation of the blocks or discolor your tubing.

its LITERALLY stated that this is not for long time use (long time is an understatement on their part), and can damage your equipment. I dont care how "cool" it looks for 1 week its not worth the effort money and possible pain to get its residual effects out of your loop.

DON'T use this product PERIOD! if you have a showcase PC and are willing to do hours of cleansing after the show or photoshoot, fine use it but its not worth a damn after all the hell you will have to go through after you use it.

Auora 2 MAY POSSIBLY be better, but they are phasing it in after current Auora supplies go out the door, which is ludicrous because nobody buys auora anymore cause its impracticable and how often are you staring at your computer when you are using it?


----------



## Mayhem

@darwing

1) it doesn't use Chrystal's your unbelievably miss informed to the point of being ignorant.
2) It works fine if you follow instructions as per the wiki,
3) lol it sells very well thank you so you very miss leading again showing your ignorance. So much so the improved version has been shipping all ready out the door on some colors and has done for the last few weeks.
4) We have had it in systems for well over a year and so have many others users who followed instructions. The new version is just a bit better hence an improvement over the last version and as time passes by we will keep improving it and changing its formula as we progress.

Aurora is not for every one and we didn't make it for every one, We made it as a option for users and nothing more ..... so If you don't like it just don't buy it. simples. There is always just water or another coolant or brand you can go to such as Feser, Primochill, EK or XSPC.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Served... lol


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Served... lol


LOL


----------



## cyphon

Lolz


----------



## kizwan

I'm staring at my computer everyday & I'm just using Pastel Blue Berry. My computer case is on the desk, in front of me, with the side window facing me. Hard to ignore them. This explained my bad K/D ratio in BF4. I don't know what happen if I have Aurora in there.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I'm staring at my computer everyday & I'm just using Pastel Blue Berry. My computer case is on the desk, in front of me, with the side window facing me. Hard to ignore them. This explained my bad K/D ratio in BF4. I don't know what happen if I have Aurora in there.


Lol
Can't help but stare at my machines too. The new one I'm building is going to have aurora and be next to the tv.might be difficult to watch anything on the tubes with it sitting in there


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @darwing
> 
> 1) it doesn't use Chrystal's your unbelievably miss informed to the point of being ignorant.
> 2) It works fine if you follow instructions as per the wiki,
> 3) lol it sells very well thank you so you very miss leading again showing your ignorance. So much so the improved version has been shipping all ready out the door on some colors and has done for the last few weeks.
> 4) We have had it in systems for well over a year and so have many others users who followed instructions. The new version is just a bit better hence an improvement over the last version and as time passes by we will keep improving it and changing its formula as we progress.
> 
> Aurora is not for every one and we didn't make it for every one, We made it as a option for users and nothing more ..... so If you don't like it just don't buy it. simples. There is always just water or another coolant or brand you can go to such as Feser, Primochill, EK or XSPC.


1) Pearls sorry some refer it as crystals and mayhems uses pearls
2)The issue is that it is revolutionary and amazing, however I seriously doubt you have systems where the effect is still there after a solid years use with a standard system setup with the passes items on the wiki. But if you do that's amazing because I would considered that to be long term use and a practice product for the type of users it is geared for.

The word on the street is that the us got 3 barrels to start sending out after supplies dry up. But with that said I've been waiting for auora 2 for over a year and couldn't be more excited to see people actually use it and reviews!

You do state very clearly this isn't for long time use and there are dangers if used with untested equipment, which is important and good. I have yet to see anything officially announced on the website about auora 2 being released which I would jump on immediately and purchase this.

With all this said thank you for stepping in as a rep (and shut up robocop lol







) and is there any guarantee if I put together a visual loop with just pump tubing and a small res for testing that this will last longer than a few months? And haw can we tell if we are buying the old auora or the new concentrate performancepc a always says new!!

Finally let's put it this way, I like the product so much that for my magazine build I'm actually setting up a specific loop just for the auora to flow without breaking down no blocks, just a hidden res a hidden pump and some tube to show off your product and hope it lasts the three weeks on demo


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> 1) Pearls sorry some refer it as crystals and mayhems uses pearls
> 2)The issue is that it is revolutionary and amazing, however I seriously doubt you have systems where the effect is still there after a solid years use with a standard system setup with the passes items on the wiki. But if you do that's amazing because I would considered that to be long term use and a practice product for the type of users it is geared for.
> 
> The word on the street is that the us got 3 barrels to start sending out after supplies dry up. But with that said I've been waiting for auora 2 for over a year and couldn't be more excited to see people actually use it and reviews!
> 
> You do state very clearly this isn't for long time use and there are dangers if used with untested equipment, which is important and good. I have yet to see anything officially announced on the website about auora 2 being released which I would jump on immediately and purchase this.
> 
> With all this said thank you for stepping in as a rep (and shut up robocop lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and is there any guarantee if I put together a visual loop with just pump tubing and a small res for testing that this will last longer than a few months? And haw can we tell if we are buying the old auora or the new concentrate performancepc a always says new!!
> 
> Finally let's put it this way, I like the product so much that for my magazine build I'm actually setting up a specific loop just for the auora to flow without breaking down no blocks, just a hidden res a hidden pump and some tube to show off your product and hope it lasts the three weeks on demo


I'm fairly certain the new Aurora is a premix, not a concentrate as Mayhems stated he had shipped "Four pallets of premix" out for sale, but I'm not mayhems warehouse worker so I'm just going on what little has been said in these forums.

I wonder if we can expect a review from Gilgamesh at O.C.Tech, since he reviewed X1 and Pastel a while back. One can only hope I guess.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> 1) Pearls sorry some refer it as crystals and mayhems uses pearls
> 2)The issue is that it is revolutionary and amazing, however I seriously doubt you have systems where the effect is still there after a solid years use with a standard system setup with the passes items on the wiki. But if you do that's amazing because I would considered that to be long term use and a practice product for the type of users it is geared for.
> 
> The word on the street is that the us got 3 barrels to start sending out after supplies dry up. But with that said I've been waiting for auora 2 for over a year and couldn't be more excited to see people actually use it and reviews!
> 
> You do state very clearly this isn't for long time use and there are dangers if used with untested equipment, which is important and good. I have yet to see anything officially announced on the website about auora 2 being released which I would jump on immediately and purchase this.
> 
> With all this said thank you for stepping in as a rep (and shut up robocop lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and is there any guarantee if I put together a visual loop with just pump tubing and a small res for testing that this will last longer than a few months? And haw can we tell if we are buying the old auora or the new concentrate performancepc a always says new!!
> 
> Finally let's put it this way, I like the product so much that for my magazine build I'm actually setting up a specific loop just for the auora to flow without breaking down no blocks, just a hidden res a hidden pump and some tube to show off your product and hope it lasts the three weeks on demo


I've seen multiple reports in multiple locations of it lasting a year or more. Unfortunately there are more reports of short term use than long, however, people on forums tend to speak up more freely when they are generally disappointed versus satisfied.

I spend a good bit of time in this thread and a lot of aurora questions come up. Those that plan their loop to be used with aurora and build it with the wiki instructions get the best results. Deciding to use aurora after the loop is built tend to have worse results even if they think their build fits the bill.

It seems that you had a negative experience with aurora, if you do not mind me asking, what was the make up of that loop?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> 1) Pearls sorry some refer it as crystals and mayhems uses pearls
> 2)The issue is that it is revolutionary and amazing, however I seriously doubt you have systems where the effect is still there after a solid years use with a standard system setup with the passes items on the wiki. But if you do that's amazing because I would considered that to be long term use and a practice product for the type of users it is geared for.
> 
> The word on the street is that the us got 3 barrels to start sending out after supplies dry up. But with that said I've been waiting for auora 2 for over a year and couldn't be more excited to see people actually use it and reviews!
> 
> You do state very clearly this isn't for long time use and there are dangers if used with untested equipment, which is important and good. I have yet to see anything officially announced on the website about auora 2 being released which I would jump on immediately and purchase this.
> 
> With all this said thank you for stepping in as a rep (and shut up robocop lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and is there any guarantee if I put together a visual loop with just pump tubing and a small res for testing that this will last longer than a few months? And haw can we tell if we are buying the old auora or the new concentrate performancepc a always says new!!
> 
> Finally let's put it this way, I like the product so much that for my magazine build I'm actually setting up a specific loop just for the auora to flow without breaking down no blocks, just a hidden res a hidden pump and some tube to show off your product and hope it lasts the three weeks on demo


Watch the video from previous page..... he had it for 9 months including a 5 week shutdown with no ill effects.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7eboct_ckQ

There are many users with vids on you tube with 8 - 12 months usage.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Watch the video from previous page..... he had it for 9 months including a 5 week shutdown with no ill effects.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7eboct_ckQ
> 
> There are many users with vids on you tube with 8 - 12 months usage.


5 week shut down... U nderstand that is literally like bottling it up again and not moving the pearls ?? That's like saying ok I'm going to put it into my system, turn it on in 5 months and wow it's like I started it up for the first time.

It's continuous use is the issue, I'm sure if u put it back in the bottle waited 6 months then put it back in ur system it would work to


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> 5 week shut down... U nderstand that is literally like bottling it up again and not moving the pearls ?? That's like saying ok I'm going to put it into my system, turn it on in 5 months and wow it's like I started it up for the first time.
> 
> It's continuous use is the issue, I'm sure if u put it back in the bottle waited 6 months then put it back in ur system it would work to


The primary issue is the pearls falling out of suspension, usually due to them getting caught in all the crevices, nooks, slits, etc. Turning it off gives the pearls a chance to settle, and fall out of suspension.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> 5 week shut down... Understand that is literally like bottling it up again and not moving the pearls ?? That's like saying ok I'm going to put it into my system, turn it on in 5 months and wow it's like I started it up for the first time.
> 
> It's continuous use is the issue, I'm sure if u put it back in the bottle waited 6 months then put it back in ur system it would work to


No, it's not.....intermittent use was the only concern as is identified in the wiki and all the user videos.

Well at least after reading 1,000s of anti-aurora comments since its introduction, I must say you have been the first to come up with this very unusual conclusion. I must be up front and say I see no logic behind it whatsoever. Ever buy paint ? Why do they put it in the shaker thingie ? Movement is good, sitting around doing nothing is bad...... . keeping the fluid moving keeps particles in suspension .... letting it stop allows them to "settle out" .... which is why if ya open a can of paint left in ya basement after 6 months.... you cave an inch of clay like substance on the bottom.

What I realize when seeing that video is that it totally debunks the major knock against the product....the claim all along is that it will settle out and not go back in suspension cause it will have gunked up and settles in blocks and all the nooks and crannies....this video debunked that claim...... I really don't understand what led you to conclude that the pearls "wear out" with use so would welcome an explanation .... is your thinking that the particles get bashed around to tube walls and disintegrate somehow ? They are not "organic" so will not break down with time. my wife has a pearl necklace that was her great grandmothers.... I don't think it looks any different than it did 90 years ago.

Lest we forget, did you read the video comments ... read the part about 9 months of active usage ? Why didn't it show any sign of degradation then ? Why don't any of the other videos with a year of use show any degradation ? Read the wiki and the manufacturer's statements .... none of the warnings are about product breakdown.....the concerns are about settling out. In my profession 9wastrewater treatment) we have two terms that are critical....

1. Solids Deposition Velocity is the minimum velocity (2.0 fps) below which solids in suspension will settle out in piping.

2. Solids Pick Up Velocity is the velocity (3.5 fps) at which settled solids in suspension will be picked up and resuspended.

So in a wastewater system which never goes below 2.0 fps, we don't have problems.....if ya do go below 2.0 fps... then ya better be capable of doing 3.5 fps or you have ti worry about being able to resuspend those solids. In this application the solids are much closer in density than we find in wastewater so the req'd velocities won't be as great.

But here's what we see in a typical 10mm ID tube

1.00 gpm~ 2.65 fps
1.25 gpm~ 3.31 fps
1.50 gpm~ 3.97 fps
1.75 gpm~ 4.63 fps
2.00 gpm~ 5.29 fps

from the wiki
Quote:


> '+ Reservoir's with Inbuilt Pumps do not work well as the pump vents suck in the pearl and do not release it.
> ++ Single DDC / D5 Reservoir has large opening on right hand side were the water is dead and does not move this causes the pearl to drop out of suspension and lay. these are actually badly designed reservoirs.
> +++ D5 Laing Pumps are recommend to be run on Level 4 and 5 and not below this settings.


1. stuff gets stuck or no longer remains in suspension (not moving)
2. stuff settles out of suspension in dead spaces (not moving)
3. says to run pumps at higher speed settings to "keep it moving".

Quote:


> You have not flushed your system correctly. Aurora Sticks to tubing, Rads, and various other components.
> Your pump does not have enough pressure or flow to move the fluids around quick enough (e.g 4 rads + 2 blocks on a single 18 watt DDC is expecting to much)
> You have bad flow in a reservoir or single component that is causing the pearl to stay inside it or stick.


1. It is prone to stick when it "settles out"
2. It wasn't moving fast enough
3. Bad or low flow thru reservoir that allows pearls to settle out and stick.

Clearly each of the issues identified by both the manufacturer and the user community have identified lack of flow as the biggest concern..... lots of use or flow is what it is recommended.....letting it sit is what is clearly recommended against and the video showed that you can resuspend the pearls if you have a well designed system without any dead spots.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> 5 week shut down... Understand that is literally like bottling it up again and not moving the pearls ?? That's like saying ok I'm going to put it into my system, turn it on in 5 months and wow it's like I started it up for the first time.
> 
> It's continuous use is the issue, I'm sure if u put it back in the bottle waited 6 months then put it back in ur system it would work to
> 
> 
> 
> No, it's not.....intermittent use was the only concern as is identified in the wiki and all the user videos.
> 
> Well at least after reading 1,000s of anti-aurora comments since its introduction, I must say you have been the first to come up with this very unusual conclusion. I must be up front and say I see no logic behind it whatsoever. Ever buy paint ? Why do they put it in the shaker thingie ? Movement is good, sitting around doing nothing is bad...... . keeping the fluid moving keeps particles in suspension .... letting it stop allows them to "settle out" .... which is why if ya open a can of paint left in ya basement after 6 months.... you cave an inch of clay like substance on the bottom.
> 
> What I realize when seeing that video is that it totally debunks the major knock against the product....the claim all along is that it will settle out and not go back in suspension cause it will have gunked up and settles in blocks and all the nooks and crannies....this video debunked that claim...... I really don't understand what led you to conclude that the pearls "wear out" with use so would welcome an explanation .... is your thinking that the particles get bashed around to tube walls and disintegrate somehow ? They are not "organic" so will not break down with time. my wife has a pearl necklace that was her great grandmothers.... I don't think it looks any different than it did 90 years ago.
> 
> Lest we forget, did you read the video comments ... read the part about 9 months of active usage ? Why didn't it show any sign of degradation then ? Why don't any of the other videos with a year of use show any degradation ? Read the wiki and the manufacturer's statements .... none of the warnings are about product breakdown.....the concerns are about settling out. In my profession 9wastrewater treatment) we have two terms that are critical....
> 
> 1. Solids Deposition Velocity is the minimum velocity (2.0 fps) below which solids in suspension will settle out in piping.
> 
> 2. Solids Pick Up Velocity is the velocity (3.5 fps) at which settled solids in suspension will be picked up and resuspended.
> 
> So in a wastewater system which never goes below 2.0 fps, we don't have problems.....if ya do go below 2.0 fps... then ya better be capable of doing 3.5 fps or you have ti worry about being able to resuspend those solids. In this application the solids are much closer in density than we find in wastewater so the req'd velocities won't be as great.
> 
> But here's what we see in a typical 10mm ID tube
> 
> 1.00 gpm~ 2.65 fps
> 1.25 gpm~ 3.31 fps
> 1.50 gpm~ 3.97 fps
> 1.75 gpm~ 4.63 fps
> 2.00 gpm~ 5.29 fps
> 
> from the wiki
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> '+ Reservoir's with Inbuilt Pumps do not work well as the pump vents suck in the pearl and do not release it.
> ++ Single DDC / D5 Reservoir has large opening on right hand side were the water is dead and does not move this causes the pearl to drop out of suspension and lay. these are actually badly designed reservoirs.
> +++ D5 Laing Pumps are recommend to be run on Level 4 and 5 and not below this settings.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 1. stuff gets stuck or no longer remains in suspension (not moving)
> 2. stuff settles out of suspension in dead spaces (not moving)
> 3. says to run pumps at higher speed settings to "keep it moving".
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> You have not flushed your system correctly. Aurora Sticks to tubing, Rads, and various other components.
> Your pump does not have enough pressure or flow to move the fluids around quick enough (e.g 4 rads + 2 blocks on a single 18 watt DDC is expecting to much)
> You have bad flow in a reservoir or single component that is causing the pearl to stay inside it or stick.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 1. It is prone to stick when it "settles out"
> 2. It wasn't moving fast enough
> 3. Bad or low flow thru reservoir that allows pearls to settle out and stick.
> 
> Clearly each of the issues identified by both the manufacturer and the user community have identified lack of flow as the biggest concern..... lots of use or flow is what it is recommended.....letting it sit is what is clearly recommended against and the video showed that you can resuspend the pearls if you have a well designed system without any dead spots.
Click to expand...

You are overthinking the product and seems like trying to pick a bit of a fight here. Just wait for Aurora 2 to come out and see how it performs compared to the same setup with Aurora 1.


----------



## cyphon

Very well said @JackNaylorPE +REP


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> 5 week shut down... Understand that is literally like bottling it up again and not moving the pearls ?? That's like saying ok I'm going to put it into my system, turn it on in 5 months and wow it's like I started it up for the first time.
> 
> It's continuous use is the issue, I'm sure if u put it back in the bottle waited 6 months then put it back in ur system it would work to
> 
> 
> 
> No, it's not.....intermittent use was the only concern as is identified in the wiki and all the user videos.
> 
> Well at least after reading 1,000s of anti-aurora comments since its introduction, I must say you have been the first to come up with this very unusual conclusion. I must be up front and say I see no logic behind it whatsoever. Ever buy paint ? Why do they put it in the shaker thingie ? Movement is good, sitting around doing nothing is bad...... . keeping the fluid moving keeps particles in suspension .... letting it stop allows them to "settle out" .... which is why if ya open a can of paint left in ya basement after 6 months.... you cave an inch of clay like substance on the bottom.
> 
> What I realize when seeing that video is that it totally debunks the major knock against the product....the claim all along is that it will settle out and not go back in suspension cause it will have gunked up and settles in blocks and all the nooks and crannies....this video debunked that claim...... I really don't understand what led you to conclude that the pearls "wear out" with use so would welcome an explanation .... is your thinking that the particles get bashed around to tube walls and disintegrate somehow ? They are not "organic" so will not break down with time. my wife has a pearl necklace that was her great grandmothers.... I don't think it looks any different than it did 90 years ago.
> 
> Lest we forget, did you read the video comments ... read the part about 9 months of active usage ? Why didn't it show any sign of degradation then ? Why don't any of the other videos with a year of use show any degradation ? Read the wiki and the manufacturer's statements .... none of the warnings are about product breakdown.....the concerns are about settling out. In my profession 9wastrewater treatment) we have two terms that are critical....
> 
> 1. Solids Deposition Velocity is the minimum velocity (2.0 fps) below which solids in suspension will settle out in piping.
> 
> 2. Solids Pick Up Velocity is the velocity (3.5 fps) at which settled solids in suspension will be picked up and resuspended.
> 
> So in a wastewater system which never goes below 2.0 fps, we don't have problems.....if ya do go below 2.0 fps... then ya better be capable of doing 3.5 fps or you have ti worry about being able to resuspend those solids. In this application the solids are much closer in density than we find in wastewater so the req'd velocities won't be as great.
> 
> But here's what we see in a typical 10mm ID tube
> 
> 1.00 gpm~ 2.65 fps
> 1.25 gpm~ 3.31 fps
> 1.50 gpm~ 3.97 fps
> 1.75 gpm~ 4.63 fps
> 2.00 gpm~ 5.29 fps
> 
> from the wiki
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> '+ Reservoir's with Inbuilt Pumps do not work well as the pump vents suck in the pearl and do not release it.
> ++ Single DDC / D5 Reservoir has large opening on right hand side were the water is dead and does not move this causes the pearl to drop out of suspension and lay. these are actually badly designed reservoirs.
> +++ D5 Laing Pumps are recommend to be run on Level 4 and 5 and not below this settings.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 1. stuff gets stuck or no longer remains in suspension (not moving)
> 2. stuff settles out of suspension in dead spaces (not moving)
> 3. says to run pumps at higher speed settings to "keep it moving".
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> You have not flushed your system correctly. Aurora Sticks to tubing, Rads, and various other components.
> Your pump does not have enough pressure or flow to move the fluids around quick enough (e.g 4 rads + 2 blocks on a single 18 watt DDC is expecting to much)
> You have bad flow in a reservoir or single component that is causing the pearl to stay inside it or stick.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 1. It is prone to stick when it "settles out"
> 2. It wasn't moving fast enough
> 3. Bad or low flow thru reservoir that allows pearls to settle out and stick.
> 
> Clearly each of the issues identified by both the manufacturer and the user community have identified lack of flow as the biggest concern..... lots of use or flow is what it is recommended.....letting it sit is what is clearly recommended against and the video showed that you can resuspend the pearls if you have a well designed system without any dead spots.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You are overthinking the product and seems like trying to pick a bit of a fight here. Just wait for Aurora 2 to come out and see how it performs compared to the same setup with Aurora 1.
Click to expand...

Sorry originally meant to Quote darwing not you Jack


----------



## Jimhans1

Cue Bneg on spoiler usage!!!!


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I'm staring at my computer everyday & I'm just using Pastel Blue Berry. My computer case is on the desk, in front of me, with the side window facing me. Hard to ignore them. This explained my bad K/D ratio in BF4. I don't know what happen if I have Aurora in there.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol
> Can't help but stare at my machines too. The new one I'm building is going to have aurora and be next to the tv.might be difficult to watch anything on the tubes with it sitting in there
Click to expand...

Man you just built crowbar and you're going to do another build? Wow lol I need your job. I started a second build, but it is a SFF system and will be VERY simple. Just a loop on the CPU.

I will be using Pastel Ice White and here's a link if you care to take a look.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1445628/build-log-little-italy-mitx-build


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Cue Bneg on spoiler usage!!!!


If thats directed at me most of the time I see they want you to use spoilers is when quoting a post with lots of pictures since all those images take extra time for the page to load. Text does not take time for the server to load when compared to pictures.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Man you just built crowbar and you're going to do another build? Wow lol I need your job. I started a second build, but it is a SFF system and will be VERY simple. Just a loop on the CPU.
> 
> I will be using Pastel Ice White and here's a link if you care to take a look.


This build is pretty cheap. It is an HTPC and I am using some HDDs that I had but hadn't used yet (bought some 3TB drives for $100 ea when a sale came around...couldn't not do buy them). Also had some WC stuff left over so that helps too. It will use integrated graphics so no need for a GPU (no GPU saves at least $500







). Also, billmelater is freakin sweet, lol


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If thats directed at me most of the time I see they want you to use spoilers is when quoting a post with lots of pictures since all those images take extra time for the page to load. Text does not take time for the server to load when compared to pictures.


Just courteous to the other members, doesn't need to be read multiple times. And it saves the people on mobile also from needing to scroll so.......... Just saying.


----------



## stickg1

Wish I could do Billmelater, still recovering my credit score from mistakes I made in my college years. Sigh, wish I wasn't such a turd last decade...


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Cue Bneg on spoiler usage!!!!


I'll second that!


----------



## Mayhem

Tell you what "Darwing" send me you full name and address and tel via PM and we will ship you out a bottle to play with (at our expense) at you own harts content then you can let every here know your opinion and once you tested it, Hows that sound. There are "no" rules attached just simply try it and then comment on it in any way you see fit. Ill even add an extras bottle of X1 or pastel so you can replace it with some thing more suited to you taste.

Mick


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Tell you what "Darwing" send me you full name and address and tel via PM and we will ship you out a bottle to play with (at our expense) at you own harts content then you can let every here know your opinion and once you tested it, Hows that sound. There are "no" rules attached just simply try it and then comment on it in any way you see fit. Ill even add an extras bottle of X1 or pastel so you can replace it with some thing more suited to you taste.
> 
> Mick


Always going the extra mile or kilometer in your case to prove your products Mick. The new coolant has been in 4 days and working great so far. Have acrylic tubing so no more possible tubing issues and I will be sending you my old tubing next payday.

And a few pics if you didnt see the ones I posted a few pages back.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## cyphon

That's a pretty generous offer there Mick. Can't say that I've seen any other companies do something like that. What service









Also, if I didn't say so before stunt, dat acrylic makes your machine look so sweet with the lime yellow







.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That's a pretty generous offer there Mick. Can't say that I've seen any other companies do something like that. What service
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, if I didn't say so before stunt, dat acrylic makes your machine look so sweet with the lime yellow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yes you did and I appreciate the compliments man. I thought Crowbar was sick and I voted for you last month but sadly you didn't win. It was a hard month for that competition.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Yes you did and I appreciate the compliments man. I thought Crowbar was sick and I voted for you last month but sadly you didn't win. It was a hard month for that competition.


Appreciate the vote and props


----------



## Anoxy

Have any of you fine folks concocted a transparent gold fluid?

I guess it would look like sorta like dehydrated urine....lol


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Have any of you fine folks concocted a transparent gold fluid?
> 
> I guess it would look like sorta like dehydrated urine....lol


Is there a specific shade you are looking for? Post a reference if you can.

I think yellow type fluids look way better in pastel so that they do not look like pee lol. Snef's Sand of God build has a nice colored gold pastel that he put together with some input from mayhem


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Have any of you fine folks concocted a transparent gold fluid?
> 
> I guess it would look like sorta like dehydrated urine....lol


I saw a picture somewhere of what looked like beer running through someones system. I am thinking with a combination of orange and yellow you could come up with something. Maybe a little white to lighten things up.


----------



## Anoxy

Alright, I was thinking something that would match the copper accents on my blocks and alphacool products, since their logo is copper.

I prefer the transparent fluid over pastel, but perhaps I'll look at doing a dark blue instead. A transparent pee color might not be very appealing.


----------



## M3TAl

Added mosfet and NB blocks. Apparently this Durelene tubing is already having plasticizer issues? I'll post about it in the plasticizer thread. It looks greenish to me. Tried scraping the inner wall with a brush thing that's for cleaning tubing, didn't do anything. Whatever the problem is it's caked into the wall of the tubing I guess.

Horrible pic from phone, too tired to attempt a better pic right now. LED's are actually white.


----------



## stickg1

Like this?



http://www.overclock.net/t/1417922/cosmos-by-hrc-thai/0_30#post_20594537


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Tell you what "Darwing" send me you full name and address and tel via PM and we will ship you out a bottle to play with (at our expense) at you own harts content then you can let every here know your opinion and once you tested it, Hows that sound. There are "no" rules attached just simply try it and then comment on it in any way you see fit. Ill even add an extras bottle of X1 or pastel so you can replace it with some thing more suited to you taste.
> 
> Mick


way to stick a pacifier in this conversation about aurora. this is why I will always support mayhem's products(not to mention they are the best, IMO) and never ask for anything free from Mick. I am happy to pay the cost for your products and happy to support the great family at mayhem's. I hope you guys have a great year at Mayhem's. keep up the great work and tremendous customer service.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> You are overthinking the product and seems like trying to pick a bit of a fight here. Just wait for Aurora 2 to come out and see how it performs compared to the same setup with Aurora 1.


Nah, Not at all







....just debunking false statements that have no basis in fact.

Many peeps new to WC are oft scared off by what was once solid information but is now oudated and no longer applicable ..... adding false rumors to the mix makes it harder for them.

I have no plans to use either Aurora 1 or Aurora 2. Just spent $64 on Mayems dyes and pastels .... gonna get my money's worth outta that first .... and no new builds on horizon ..... seems only requests coming in want next CPU and nVidia 8xx's


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Added mosfet and NB blocks. Apparently this Durelene tubing is already having plasticizer issues? I'll post about it in the plasticizer thread. It looks greenish to me. Tried scraping the inner wall with a brush thing that's for cleaning tubing, didn't do anything. Whatever the problem is it's caked into the wall of the tubing I guess.
> 
> Horrible pic from phone, too tired to attempt a better pic right now. LED's are actually white.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I replied in the plasticizer thread, but also wanted to mention here that it isn't plasticizer, my Durelene tubing did the same, so did a fellow ocn member's Durelene tubing, and he was just running distilled and additive. The tubing has no coating of plasticizer, just that faint greenish tinge. But it has nothing to do with the Mayhems coolant.
I drained my system recently, filtered the Mayhems Pastel Ice White coolant through a coffee filter so I could re-use it, and it was as clean and white as when new.


----------



## stickg1

I added 4 drops of Ocean Blue dye to my distilled water. Not sure if you can even tell in these crappy phone pics but in person it looks like 100% pure win!

I might do a few more drops to make it stand out more but my last radiator STILL ISN'T HERE YET.







So since I will likely have to drain 75% of my loop to do the intended work, I don't want to waste any more dye.


----------



## VSG

That looks great, now all you need is a Frozenq liquid fusion with UV blue spirals


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I added 4 drops of Ocean Blue dye to my distilled water. Not sure if you can even tell in these crappy phone pics but in person it looks like 100% pure win!
> 
> I might do a few more drops to make it stand out more but my last radiator STILL ISN'T HERE YET.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So since I will likely have to drain 75% of my loop to do the intended work, I don't want to waste any more dye.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah the phone pic washed it out....looks pretty clear to me....

I agree if you are waiting for more parts, save the dye. I personally like to dye the fluid first and then fill it anyway.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> You are overthinking the product and seems like trying to pick a bit of a fight here. Just wait for Aurora 2 to come out and see how it performs compared to the same setup with Aurora 1.
> 
> 
> 
> Nah, Not at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....just debunking false statements that have no basis in fact.
> 
> Many peeps new to WC are oft scared off by what was once solid information but is now oudated and no longer applicable ..... adding false rumors to the mix makes it harder for them.
> 
> I have no plans to use either Aurora 1 or Aurora 2. Just spent $64 on Mayems dyes and pastels .... gonna get my money's worth outta that first .... and no new builds on horizon ..... seems only requests coming in want next CPU and nVidia 8xx's
Click to expand...

That was not really directed at you Jack. I miss quoted you instead of quoting darwing.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah the phone pic washed it out....looks pretty clear to me....
> 
> I agree if you are waiting for more parts, save the dye. I personally like to dye the fluid first and then fill it anyway.


Well technically it's very clear and just slightly blue. But that was the goal. Oh I much prefer to mix in the loop, I like to see the pump whisk up the dye and then see it shoot thru the tubing. But I'm easily amused so, yeah, I like to have my fun!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I replied in the plasticizer thread, but also wanted to mention here that it isn't plasticizer, my Durelene tubing did the same, so did a fellow ocn member's Durelene tubing, and he was just running distilled and additive. The tubing has no coating of plasticizer, just that faint greenish tinge. But it has nothing to do with the Mayhems coolant.
> I drained my system recently, filtered the Mayhems Pastel Ice White coolant through a coffee filter so I could re-use it, and it was as clean and white as when new.


So do all clear tubing eventually turn green? It's been only 1-2 weeks, surprised how fast this happened. Is it because of the massive amount of copper in the loop? All 3 of these rads are all copper (no brass) and all 4 blocks are copper.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Well technically it's very clear and just slightly blue. But that was the goal. Oh I much prefer to mix in the loop, I like to see the pump whisk up the dye and then see it shoot thru the tubing. But I'm easily amused so, yeah, I like to have my fun!


It is very fun to do that, so I do not blame you







Especially if you capture it on camera in slomo

Just easier to gauge the color when mixed before going into the loop


----------



## stickg1

True!

I took another pic, a white piece of printer paper as a backdrop did the trick. It's a slight tint but looks really nice IRL. I'm thinking one or two more drops for the finished product.



On a side note, that piece of paper got pwnt by my SP120. But good news is if my paper shredder stops working I have a contingency plan, six of them actually!


----------



## stickg1

@Cyphon - I took your advice on pre-mixing. This is the final shade I settled with, is that not the prettiest aqua-blue?! I love it! I use a couple drops of the Mayhem's Ocean Blue. @Mick - I LOVE LOVE LOVE this dye! Thanks for the awesome product!

You still can barely see it in my tubing on camera, and the reservoir is too dimly lit amoungst my case lighting, but it really does look nice in person.


----------



## M3TAl

That blue looks tasty. Want to drink it


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> @Cyphon - I took your advice on pre-mixing. This is the final shade I settled with, is that not the prettiest aqua-blue?! I love it! I use a couple drops of the Mayhem's Ocean Blue. @Mick - I LOVE LOVE LOVE this dye! Thanks for the awesome product!
> 
> You still can barely see it in my tubing on camera, and the reservoir is too dimly lit amoungst my case lighting, but it really does look nice in person.


That is exactly the shade I hope you'd go with







Nice work
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That blue looks tasty. Want to drink it


Do not recommend


----------



## TheSimon

I read on mayhems website that their pastel tubing can discolor primochill tubing, is this true for their acrylic tubing as well?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> I read on mayhems website that their pastel tubing can discolor primochill tubing, is this true for their acrylic tubing as well?


I don't believe that the acrylic would be effected by coolant regarding staining. And ANY coolant that is colored COULD stain flexible tubing, the red and blue colors tend to do that more.

I have used the Pastel Red for a couple of years now, and have not had any issues with it in my system running Primochill Advanced LRT.


----------



## CroakV

Pretty sure that caution dates back to the original Primochill LRT, before the "Advanced" version hit the market. Or was that plasticizer concerns? I've slept since then.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> Pretty sure that caution dates back to the original Primochill LRT, before the "Advanced" version hit the market. Or was that plasticizer concerns? I've slept since then.


Yeah, I'm fairly certain it's for the old Primoflex Pro as well.


----------



## stickg1

Does Mayhem's make a corrosion inhibitor? Like in a little dropper to use with my distilled water? Or do I just need to get one of his coolants?

I use the Biocide Extreme currently.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> I read on mayhems website that their pastel tubing can discolor primochill tubing, is this true for their acrylic tubing as well?


The others are correct, The warning applies the the Primochill PRO LRT as that tubing had major politicized problems. The Primochill Advanced LRT is now the recommended soft tube. Dyes can still strain, but the plasticizer problems haven't been there with Advanced like it was with PRO.

Now, if you want rigid acrylic, you have nothing to worry about. There is nothing in acrylic that can react with the fluid. There's no plasticizer since it is rigid (plasticizer is what is added to the tube to make it more flexible).


----------



## MariusJS

I've just ordered 2Meters of the "advanced" version, so I guess I will be "testing" aswell, will be running dual loop, one with blue, and one with pastell blue


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MariusJS*
> 
> I've just ordered 2Meters of the "advanced" version, so I guess I will be "testing" aswell, will be running dual loop, one with blue, and one with pastell blue


Nice









Make sure to post pics here when you are done


----------



## stickg1

Can you tell that it's aqua blue now? I went a shade darker


----------



## MariusJS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to post pics here when you are done


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Can you tell that it's aqua blue now? I went a shade darker


Will do, waiting for a lot of other stuff, aswell, though (1350W PSU, Gentle Typhoon, and NoiseBlocker fans and some more WC and sleeving parts)
Try adding a few more drops? Maybe the problem is that the camera is not picking it up, perfectly, but the RES is quite a bit darker!
Oh, and a black, and yellow backplate would look SO sexy!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MariusJS*
> 
> Will do, waiting for a lot of other stuff, aswell, though (1350W PSU, Gentle Typhoon, and NoiseBlocker fans and some more WC and sleeving parts)
> Try adding a few more drops? Maybe the problem is that the camera is not picking it up, perfectly, but the RES is quite a bit darker!
> Oh, and a black, and yellow backplate would look SO sexy!


I think his lighting is the cause of the camera not picking it up....
I'd try putting some light behind the top rad to light the mobo up and the tubes a bit


----------



## MariusJS

Or try without flash, and in a darker room


----------



## stickg1

There's no flash, it's just the LEDs kinda wash out the tubing. I am actually making two more LED strips right now, one for near the res and one for behind the top radiator to shine down on the CPU block.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MariusJS*
> 
> Will do, waiting for a lot of other stuff, aswell, though (1350W PSU, Gentle Typhoon, and NoiseBlocker fans and some more WC and sleeving parts)
> Try adding a few more drops? Maybe the problem is that the camera is not picking it up, perfectly, but the RES is quite a bit darker!
> Oh, and a black, and yellow backplate would look SO sexy!


Since the res has more fluid in it, it will look darker, that's always frustrated me, get the color I want in the res, but since the tubing is like 1/4 the fluid front to back looking at it, it doesn't have the same look, and once it's as dark as I want it in the tubes, it's way darker in the res. Ahhh life.

Edit: That's why I went to using Pastel, it's opaque so it doesn't "change" color depending on tube size.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah pastel is nice. What do we think about a sky blue or aqua blue pastel? I'd like to avoid the obvious yellow pastel for my build.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> I read on mayhems website that their pastel tubing can discolor primochill tubing, is this true for their acrylic tubing as well?


Tubing has a certain rate of water absorption ... you can find the values on the MSDS for the product.....the lower the water absorption, the lower the amount of staining or discolorations. Here's a comparison of two different Tygon products. One is 29 times better than the other.





Acrylic tubing has 0 water absorption. I used about 100" of acrylic and two 3" sections of 2475 at the pump (vibration isolation)


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah pastel is nice. What do we think about a sky blue or aqua blue pastel? I'd like to avoid the obvious yellow pastel for my build.


I think it would look really good, but you would need to start with the Pastel White and add blue to make it the color you want.


----------



## stickg1

That's the plan. I'm absolutely in love with this Ocean Blue dye, I'd use that on a pastel white base.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's the plan. I'm absolutely in love with this Ocean Blue dye, I'd use that on a pastel white base.


Yes that is what I'd do if you want pastel. You may need more dye depending on how much you have gone through now. Pastel takes a good bit of dye to color


----------



## stickg1

I have more than half a bottle of dye left. I have no problem ordering more, it's pretty cheap and goes a long way. I think I need really close to 1 liter of fluid to fill my loop which is convenient for the pastel. So it should be smooth sailing. I might go ahead and order 2 bottles of concentrate though in case I decide to switch colors or add too much dye.


----------



## djriful

Everytime I see some rig with orange juice looks or Gatorade colors. I get so dam thirsty.


----------



## stickg1

Is there a corrosion blocker I can safely use in conjunction with distilled water and Biocide Extreme? Like this for example? Feser Base - Corrosion Blocker


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Or....since this is the Mayhems thread ..... can get them all together

http://mayhems.co.uk/front/x1.html#.UtSh0bT9zuE
Quote:


> Blended with inhibitors for protection of Copper, Brass, Steel, Nickel and Aluminium.
> Contains biocides to prevent growth of living organisms
> Mobilizers to prevent scale or sludge filming


250 ml Concentrate. Enough to make 2 Ltrs of coolant.

125 ml per liter (12.5% concentration)

This is the clear version w/o any dyes

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17718/ex-liq-298/Mayhems_X1_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_Clear.html?tl=c337s1809b217


----------



## stickg1

I've been looking at that and the white pastel. I use the ocean blue dye and have quite a bit left so draining and refilling with a coolant isn't a problem.

But the million dollar question, what would look cooler in my build? A hand mixed sky or aqua marine blue pastel, the X1 clear plus ocean blue to look exactly like the aqua blue clear I currently use, or maybe even the Pure Black Pastel? I want to avoid the yellow, it looks cool but I think I have enough yellow.

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/final1_zpsb80ed21a.jpg.html


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Is there a corrosion blocker I can safely use in conjunction with distilled water and Biocide Extreme? Like this for example? Feser Base - Corrosion Blocker


Fesser corrosion inhibitor is going to be primarily ethylene glycol, while Biocide Extreme is going to be primarily copper sulphate.... CuSo4 (Copper(II)Sulphate) doesn't work with any glycol based additive... It causes in the infamous gunk... So unless you want to be cleaning thick glutenous gunk out of your loop I would NOT.

Even if it was advisable it would be counter productive. Biocide extreme is used for people who want to use as little additives as possible in order to milk performance. Almost any corrosion inhibitor additive will have ethylene glycol, which will decrease performance and act as a biocide on its own.

Go with Mayhems X1, performs identically to distilled water and comes in tons of different colors, including clear, and has all the different corrosion inhibitors, biocides, and surfactants you need.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I've been looking at that and the white pastel. I use the ocean blue dye and have quite a bit left so draining and refilling with a coolant isn't a problem.
> 
> But the million dollar question, what would look cooler in my build? A hand mixed sky or aqua marine blue pastel, the X1 clear plus ocean blue to look exactly like the aqua blue clear I currently use, or maybe even the Pure Black Pastel? I want to avoid the yellow, it looks cool but I think I have enough yellow.
> 
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/final1_zpsb80ed21a.jpg.html


I'd go with a dark blue/purple, maybe dark blue with UV purple. Either way I wouldn't go pastel with that build, I think transparent would look nicer.



Complimentary colors. If there's anything my 4 art classes from HS had taught me it's never use the complimentary color when more than two colors are the focus, use the colors very near the complimentary color, in whichever direction matches the rest of the art piece.

That would be dark blue/purple. It would contrast the yellow, and vice versa, without sticking out like a sore thumb, and would blend into the background very well without going unnoticed.


----------



## stickg1

I could go with X1 clear for sure. No problem supporting more Mayhem's products, I just wasn't sure if there was a safe way to add corrosion protection to the current mix.

Anyway, if I have to drain and refill I need help deciding on X1 clear and ocean blue or making some lighter blue pastel. Both would look potentially sweet (well I already know clear looks sweet, see two posts up for my build) but Pastel could be pretty sick too. Sigh, decisions decisions...

EDIT: Just saw your second post. I happen to love the color purple, so that's an idea. I'd rather mix my own though. I'll check mayhem's line-up of dyes at my preferred retailers (FCPU and PPCs)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I could go with X1 clear for sure. No problem supporting more Mayhem's products, I just wasn't sure if there was a safe way to add corrosion protection to the current mix.
> 
> Anyway, if I have to drain and refill I need help deciding on X1 clear and ocean blue or making some lighter blue pastel. Both would look potentially sweet (well I already know clear looks sweet, see two posts up for my build) but Pastel could be pretty sick too. Sigh, decisions decisions...


I feel pastel works best when you're trying to match the color of a theme, or make the coolant the highlight of the loop. Correct me if I'm missing something, but the only reason you're using blue is to compliment the yellow... I don't see any other blue in there. Pastel would stand out a LOT, and draw attention away from the rest of the build since nothing else is blue. So yeah, I'd go with X1 clear, and dye it medium/dark blue, perhaps a little purplish if you want to be adventurous.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah I want it to go well with the yellow but wanted to avoid the obvious choice of yellow pastel because I feel that would just be overbearing. I'll mull it over, I think I could just fill up with X1 and then think about colors for a bit. I just keep seeing people with nickel plated blocks and copper rads get into trouble lately and I have no protection right now.

EDIT: Do you think the X1 Deep Purple would be too purple? Should I just get some X1 clear and bottle of purple dye instead?

Then I can call it purple drank and make a rap video!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah I want it to go well with the yellow but wanted to avoid the obvious choice of yellow pastel because I feel that would just be overbearing. I'll mull it over, I think I could just fill up with X1 and then think about colors for a bit. I just keep seeing people with nickel plated blocks and copper rads get into trouble lately and I have no protection right now.
> 
> EDIT: Do you think the X1 Deep Purple would be too purple? Should I just get some X1 clear and bottle of purple dye instead?
> 
> Then I can call it purple drank and make a rap video!


I'd go with clear and dye it purple, or you could get X1 clear, and X1 purple, put 125ml of each in a bowel, and 1.75 liters in, and mix it all together if you want to be silly.









You said you still have blue dye, so no need to factor in getting that. I'd definitely go blue/purple though, and not just purple. When mixing I'd START with purple, and just add blue incrementally till you get a nice tone... Pure purple would contrast too much with the yellow and draw attention away from the rest of the computer.

Edit: IN A BOWL. XD Can't stap laughing. Do NOT put them in a bowel. Damn autocorrect.


----------



## cyphon

I am going to say to get the clear X1 and then dye it. Like ZytheEKS was saying, a pastel would stand out too much.

I personally like the light blue, but I think a dark (perhaps navy) blue or a purple would look good too


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Edit: IN A BOWL. XD Can't stap laughing. Do NOT put them in a bowel. Damn autocorrect.


Sadly, as you get older, the thought of somebody putting dye in your bowel becomes a real thing to contemplate.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I've been looking at that and the white pastel. I use the ocean blue dye and have quite a bit left so draining and refilling with a coolant isn't a problem.
> 
> But the million dollar question, what would look cooler in my build? A hand mixed sky or aqua marine blue pastel, the X1 clear plus ocean blue to look exactly like the aqua blue clear I currently use, or maybe even the Pure Black Pastel? I want to avoid the yellow, it looks cool but I think I have enough yellow.
> 
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/final1_zpsb80ed21a.jpg.html


Nice Work! I didn't think that color combo would look good. Well done.


----------



## iCrap

So i bought some UV blue... but it seems like after a few hours the UV effect goes away.. i keep adding more. .. is it only temporary?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> So i bought some UV blue... but it seems like after a few hours the UV effect goes away.. i keep adding more. .. is it only temporary?


A couple questions:

Is there copper sulphate in your loop?

What additives DO you have in your loop?

What is the pH level of your loop?

UV liquids are very sensitive, and can lose their UV effect due to lots of different conditions, though my clear/UV Blue, which is the exact same stuff as UV blue except it's blue along with clear/uv blue, lasted just over half a year before it's effects became negligible. So yeah, most all UV effects will be temporary, but by temporary I mean it should last at least a few months if it's working properly, not just a few days.

So yeah... Answer those questions and we can help you get your loop set up to work well with UV coolants.


----------



## iCrap

I don't think i have any copper sulphate. Additives... Just biocide. pH, i don't know but i can test it tomorrow.. i have some of those test strips for my fishtank.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I don't think i have any copper sulphate. Additives... Just biocide. pH, i don't know but i can test it tomorrow.. i have some of those test strips for my fishtank.


If your additive is Benzyl Chloride, i.e. PT Nuke PHN, then that's why. Benzyl Chloride will obliterate UV reactive effects.

Please elaborate further on what biocide, there's tons of them.


----------



## iCrap

It's this one.. and yeah now i see in the title it says copper sulfate. Silly me..

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11744/ex-liq-154/IandH_Dead-Water_Copper_Sulfate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive_-_15_mL.html

So, i'll drain and put in some fresh water and a killcoil.

How much dye do i want to put in? Just one capfull or more?


----------



## djriful

Going to juice up my system tomorrow....


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> It's this one.. and yeah now i see in the title it says copper sulfate. Silly me..
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11744/ex-liq-154/IandH_Dead-Water_Copper_Sulfate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive_-_15_mL.html
> 
> So, i'll drain and put in some fresh water and a killcoil.


Careful with killcoil, if you have nickle in your loop I'd avoid it. Silver and nickle don't play nice.

Mayhems X1 performs identically to water and works fine with dyes, requires no additional additives, and is good in your loop for well over a year.

So yeah, if you're going to drain you might as well step it up with an ease of use fluid that will work well with dyes.

Just my suggestion, do whatever works for you.









But yeah, UV reactive coolants don't like CuSo4.


----------



## BradleyW

I have to say X1 Clear is the best fluid out there currently! It's the only one I'd ever use.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I have to say X1 Clear is the best fluid out there currently! It's the only one I'd ever use.


Best fluid out there is probably Mayhems Decimation, but that's currently just a prototype so only certain testers have gotten their hands on it.









Supposedly performs 5%-10% better than pure distilled water.









Good too see you got your loop all set up.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Best fluid out there is probably Mayhems Decimation, but that's currently just a prototype so only certain testers have gotten their hands on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supposedly performs 5%-10% better than pure distilled water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good too see you got your loop all set up.


Whaaaaat?? I want my loop to be decimated, like now!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Best fluid out there is probably Mayhems Decimation, but that's currently just a prototype so only certain testers have gotten their hands on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supposedly performs 5%-10% better than pure distilled water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good too see you got your loop all set up.


It isn't really 'out there' then








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Whaaaaat?? I want my loop to be decimated, like now!


Yeah, Mayhem gave us a teaser on it awhile back......no idea when this will become a full product, but we all are waiting, lol


----------



## stickg1

I was talking with him via pm a couple months back and he said he had this stuff with liquid silver in it that cools better than water. However in it's current form it would cost the end consumer a couple hundred per liter. They're working on getting that price way down in the lab. I wonder if decimation is a revised form of that coolant.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Careful with killcoil, if you have nickle in your loop I'd avoid it. Silver and nickle don't play nice.
> 
> Mayhems X1 performs identically to water and works fine with dyes, requires no additional additives, and is good in your loop for well over a year.
> 
> So yeah, if you're going to drain you might as well step it up with an ease of use fluid that will work well with dyes.
> 
> Just my suggestion, do whatever works for you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, UV reactive coolants don't like CuSo4.


So if i dont use a killcoil or biocoide what do i do about possible growth in the loop?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> So if i dont use a killcoil or biocoide what do i do about possible growth in the loop?


Mayhems X1 coolant. It has biocide, corrosion inhibitor, and is UV dye friendly.


----------



## iCrap

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/xt-1.html#.Uta4dJ70qT0
Can i just get a premixed UV blue X1?
What is the difference between XT-1 also?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Best fluid out there is probably Mayhems Decimation, but that's currently just a prototype so only certain testers have gotten their hands on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supposedly performs 5%-10% better than pure distilled water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good too see you got your loop all set up.


I'll test that for you!!!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/xt-1.html#.Uta4dJ70qT0
> Can i just get a premixed UV blue X1?
> What is the difference between XT-1 also?


I'm pretty sure XT-1 is a glycol based coolant that is ideal for people needing a coolant for sub-ambient liquid cooling. Water-chillers and stuff like that.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/xt-1.html#.Uta4dJ70qT0
> Can i just get a premixed UV blue X1?
> What is the difference between XT-1 also?


you can get the premix if ya want. I think it is pretty much what you are looking for
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm pretty sure XT-1 is a glycol based coolant that is ideal for people needing a coolant for sub-ambient liquid cooling. Water-chillers and stuff like that.


correct


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I was talking with him via pm a couple months back and he said he had this stuff with liquid silver in it that cools better than water. However in it's current form it would cost the end consumer a couple hundred per liter. They're working on getting that price way down in the lab. I wonder if decimation is a revised form of that coolant.


Decimation is nanotubes!


----------



## iCrap

I got all the crap out of my loop, refilled with some distilled water and put another capfull of uv blue... hopefully it lasts longer this time.


----------



## djriful

Well I'm such a noob... I accidently spilled DI liquid in between the GPU card from the reservoir since I forgot to close the top port.

So now my system is taken apart not the blocks but lay aside the ventilation (heater) with a regular fan blowing in between the PCB and the block.

How long it is recommended before I can finally put my system back running? 24 hrs? Isn't that excessive?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Well I'm such a noob... I accidently spilled DI liquid in between the GPU card from the reservoir since I forgot to close the top port.
> 
> So now my system is taken apart not the blocks but lay aside the ventilation (heater) with a regular fan blowing in between the PCB and the block.
> 
> How long it is recommended before I can finally put my system back running? 24 hrs? Isn't that excessive?


Personally, I would consider 24hrs the minimum time. Alway err on the side of caution, unless you can afford to just buy another one and not miss any bills doing it


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Well I'm such a noob... I accidently spilled DI liquid in between the GPU card from the reservoir since I forgot to close the top port.
> 
> So now my system is taken apart not the blocks but lay aside the ventilation (heater) with a regular fan blowing in between the PCB and the block.
> 
> How long it is recommended before I can finally put my system back running? 24 hrs? Isn't that excessive?
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, I would consider 24hrs the minimum time. Alway err on the side of caution, unless you can afford to just buy another one and not miss any bills doing it
Click to expand...

Also a bit of water got into the PSU... :/

I guess I'll wait 30hrs or something. Such pain to wait, I thought I would have it up running today but nope...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Also a bit of water got into the PSU... :/
> 
> I guess I'll wait 30hrs or something. Such pain to wait, I thought I would have it up running today but nope...


Bummer dude!


----------



## djriful

System wasn't running and no power when it is being spilled.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> System wasn't running and no power when it is being spilled.


If water got into the PSU, I'd leave it for 2-3 days in a very warm room and the door open a bit, to allow some airflow within the room.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Well I'm such a noob... I accidently spilled DI liquid in between the GPU card from the reservoir since I forgot to close the top port.
> 
> So now my system is taken apart not the blocks but lay aside the ventilation (heater) with a regular fan blowing in between the PCB and the block.
> 
> How long it is recommended before I can finally put my system back running? 24 hrs? Isn't that excessive?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Personally, I would consider 24hrs the minimum time. Alway err on the side of caution, unless you can afford to just buy another one and not miss any bills doing it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Also a bit of water got into the PSU... :/
> 
> I guess I'll wait 30hrs or something. Such pain to wait, I thought I would have it up running today but nope...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> System wasn't running and no power when it is being spilled.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> If water got into the PSU, I'd leave it for 2-3 days in a very warm room and the door open a bit, to allow some airflow within the room.






I'd pop the graphics card in a tub of rice. Power supply I would put over the condenser of a portable AC unit if you have one available.

Then just leave them overnight.

If no power was there I wouldn't worry about a short.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Been playing around with some dyes for my next fill.

Under normal light, red/black.


Under UV light, bright blue.


----------



## djriful

Milk, anyone?


----------



## Mayhem

Decimation - 100% pure silver nano tubes = £££ dammed expensive. ive been testing it and its nice stuff how ever not a option for the end consumer due to the costs involved.


----------



## CroakV

So this is Mayhem's Deep Red dye and distilled.



I've got 3 bottles of Pastel Red concentrate I bought but never used taunting me and I'll be draining and re-jiggering the loop this weekend. What do you think, stay with the translucent ruby or go opaque red.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Decimation - 100% pure silver nano tubes = £££ dammed expensive. ive been testing it and its nice stuff how ever not a option for the end consumer due to the costs involved.


Any chance of a more economical version coming out, or is there just no foreseeable way around dropping the cost without compromising it's efficiency.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> So this is Mayhem's Deep Red dye and distilled.
> 
> 
> 
> I've got 3 bottles of Pastel Red concentrate I bought but never used taunting me and I'll be draining and re-jiggering the loop this weekend. What do you think, stay with the translucent ruby or go opaque red.


My votes on the translucent ruby, save it in a bottle or something in case you want to go back.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Decimation - 100% pure silver nano tubes = £££ dammed expensive. ive been testing it and its nice stuff how ever not a option for the end consumer due to the costs involved.


We make a lot of various nanomaterials in our lab and I definitely see where 100% silver nanotubes can be expensive. Have you considered 50-150 nm sized silver nanoparticles instead? They are at least one order of magnitude less expensive to produce and have ~90-95% the heat transfer compared to nanotubes. Going down the same road, there are then copper, palladium on gold bimetallics and even carbon that could work out if you can get a vendor.


----------



## natsu2014

I like the color of my pastel


----------



## punk2k6

yup red pastel is nice ;D


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> So this is Mayhem's Deep Red dye and distilled.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got 3 bottles of Pastel Red concentrate I bought but never used taunting me and I'll be draining and re-jiggering the loop this weekend. What do you think, stay with the translucent ruby or go opaque red.


My vote is the Pastel Red.


----------



## stickg1

Man I can't wait til tomorrow when I load up on that purple drank! I just have to refrain from drinking it. I want like a grape kool-aid purple, I think I can accomplish it with the clear X1, mayhems purple, and mayhems blue.

So I don't dick around too much with the X1, I think I'm going to dye my distilled first then add the X1 to it once I get the color I want. I may have to add another few drops if the X1 Clear dilutes the color some but that's fine. I just don't want the X1 to be in there and then I get it too dark or not quite the right color and I'm stuck with it.


----------



## jwl24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> I like the color of my pastel


Can I ask what version of pastel that is?


----------



## natsu2014

It's red pastel if you ask about the colour


----------



## stickg1




----------



## HiTekJeff

I have been running Mayhem's Pastel for about 1 year now and was wondering about how often I should drain it and start with fresh? It seems like I recall Mayhem saying something like at least 2-3 years before needing to but just wanted to check to see what others have found.

Thanks.


----------



## jwl24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> It's red pastel if you ask about the colour


Yeah, I was curious if that was the grape red, light red, or the red pastel. Looks really good. I'm using the pastel red, and mine seems to be a darker shade of red than yours. Did you add anything? Or just one bottle and demonized water?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jwl24*
> 
> demonized water?



















Mayhems requires the use of holy water. You know I wonder if there is some crazy person out there with holy water in their loop haha. I think too much.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> I have been running Mayhem's Pastel for about 1 year now and was wondering about how often I should drain it and start with fresh? It seems like I recall Mayhem saying something like at least 2-3 years before needing to but just wanted to check to see what others have found.
> 
> Thanks.


Pastel is 2-3 years, X1 is 1 to 2 years.

You should be fine for a good 6+ months before I'd worry about draining.


----------



## natsu2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jwl24*
> 
> Yeah, I was curious if that was the grape red, light red, or the red pastel. Looks really good. I'm using the pastel red, and mine seems to be a darker shade of red than yours. Did you add anything? Or just one bottle and demonized water?


Premixed, it's a bit darker than it is on the picture. Phone made pics are not exactly the best quality







I like the colour though, it's perfect for my needs but have one bottle of red and one blu dye just in case


----------



## jwl24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Premixed, it's a bit darker than it is on the picture. Phone made pics are not exactly the best quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the colour though, it's perfect for my needs but have one bottle of red and one blu dye just in case


Oh sweet. So it's the red pastel, mixed with the deionized water right? Or did you add some blue or red eye to alter the red color a bit?


----------



## natsu2014

Looks like it "out of the box". Nothing has been added so far and I doubt it will be


----------



## s0up2up

Just a quick question for everyone in the know...

But what is the best combination to get as close as humanly possible to MDPC's toxic green?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Just a quick question for everyone in the know...
> 
> But what is the best combination to get as close as humanly possible to MDPC's toxic green?





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> All leak tested and running smoothly. But I am going to have to redo one of the runs. I know for a fact its causing major restriction and I should of know it was going to from the start.






^This with some non UV dark green to darken it while non UV lights are on. or you could just spam UV cathodes in your chassis.


----------



## s0up2up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 
> ^This with some non UV dark green to darken it while non UV lights are on. or you could just spam UV cathodes in your chassis.


And what colour is that?

So would that be the best solution if I was definitely not going down the UV route?

I was thinking a mix of Pastel Icy White and Emerald Green.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> And what colour is that?
> 
> So would that be the best solution if I was definitely not going down the UV route?
> 
> I was thinking a mix of Pastel Icy White and Emerald Green.


Dunno, that specific green sleeving is reflective of light giving it a sort of glow.

I don't know how you'd get that short of using Mayhems Aurora. Pastal is opaque matte white nano particles and dye, it's not going to reflect giving it that glow effect so it's REALLY hard to match the color. Even if you did it would appear to be different simply because one has a gloss finish and one would have a matte finish.

Maybe Cyphon will have some ideas.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Just a quick question for everyone in the know...
> 
> But what is the best combination to get as close as humanly possible to MDPC's toxic green?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> All leak tested and running smoothly. But I am going to have to redo one of the runs. I know for a fact its causing major restriction and I should of know it was going to from the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^This with some non UV dark green to darken it while non UV lights are on. or you could just spam UV cathodes in your chassis.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 
> ^This with some non UV dark green to darken it while non UV lights are on. or you could just spam UV cathodes in your chassis.
> 
> 
> 
> And what colour is that?
> 
> So would that be the best solution if I was definitely not going down the UV route?
> 
> I was thinking a mix of Pastel Icy White and Emerald Green.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> And what colour is that?
> 
> So would that be the best solution if I was definitely not going down the UV route?
> 
> I was thinking a mix of Pastel Icy White and Emerald Green.
> 
> 
> 
> Dunno, that specific green sleeving is reflective of light giving it a sort of glow.
> 
> I don't know how you'd get that short of using Mayhems Aurora. Pastal is opaque matte white nano particles and dye, it's not going to reflect giving it that glow effect so it's REALLY hard to match the color. Even if you did it would appear to be different simply because one has a gloss finish and one would have a matte finish.
> 
> Maybe Cyphon will have some ideas.
Click to expand...

That is Mayhem's Pastel UV Lime Yellow. I am not sure what adding a darker green dye to it would do. He makes a yellow that is very close to the color this coolant is when the UV lights are not turned on. With the UV lime yellow I am thinking that the more dye you add to it the less the UV effect will be present. I am by no means an expert on mayhems products so what I say may not be correct.


----------



## Mayhem

Some thing David key on face book sent me after i did a 1 off gold fluid for him.


----------



## Stuntfly02

I'm stupid. There is a Pastel mint green you could just darken with some more green dye. If you don't want to go down the UV route.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Some thing David key on face book sent me after i did a 1 off gold fluid for him.


Interesting pump mounting configuration. Wonder how the vibrations will be on the GPU in the long run. Other than that nice looking build with a nice looking fluid


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh i spoke to him about the pump a long time ago how ever he says it works perfect.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Some thing David key on face book sent me after i did a 1 off gold fluid for him.


Looks really nice, but, thats kinda like cutting of your nose to spite your face IMO with that being an FM2 AMD system....

Edit: Change analogy.


----------



## M3TAl

I love these Jingway pumps







. Direct to GPU block, interesting.


----------



## Mayhem

tbh that's a bit of a arrogant point of view. Not every one is a Intel fan boy and some people use what they have or have been given and turn it into what they have. I think personally he has done a very good job and its very stylish and unusual and if its a AMD then fair enough. It is not about how deep you pockets go but what you with what you have. Any one can throw money down the drain and buy fast CPUs and HDD and GPUs but not every one can turn what they have into art work ...... BTW we use FM2 systems as well for testing and work ... your point is invalid.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> tbh that's a bit of a arrogant point of view. Not every one is a Intel fan boy and some people use what they have or have been given and turn it into what they have. I think personally he has done a very good job and its very stylish and unusual and if its a AMD then fair enough. It is not about how deep you pockets go but what you with what you have. Any one can throw money down the drain and buy fast CPUs and HDD and GPUs but not every one can turn what they have into art work ...... BTW we use FM2 systems as well for testing and work ... your point is invalid.


I think its a gorgeous build, the work put into it is amazing, and the result is spectacular. I am by no means a fan boy of either side on the CPU's, I own both brands currently, and for what they are used for, they do great. As to my point being invalid, what are you talking about? My point was the system looks nice, my OPINION was that I thought that even looking nice, I feel it was a waste to use that piece of hardware, as that is my opinion, it is something that no one can tell me is invalid, you might not agree with it, and that's just fine, but it is still my opinion none the less. The same way that in my opinion, you folks at Mayhems make the best coolant available and I have been using it in my systems personally, and in customer builds for the last 3 years exclusively. That is again, an opinion, and there are many people here on OCN that might disagree with that, but in my informal testing (ie: my usage of it) you make the best stuff!

Sorry if my earlier post offended you, it was not my intent.


----------



## kizwan

You can use better words than _"polishing a turd"_.....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You can use better words than.....


OK, I changed the analogy


----------



## Mayhem

dunno whats happened there ... how ever now above your point is valid. I just think one liners are no good. You need to take a little time as you did above and explain why you think some thing is "different". Its good to hear other peoples point of view on any given subject and when its a informative point of view its even better







. Even if some one doesn't like some thing that is shown or talk about then the response should always be informative







.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> dunno whats happened there ... how ever now above your point is valid. I just think one liners are no good. You need to take a little time as you did above and explain why you think some thing is "different". Its good to hear other peoples point of view on any given subject and when its a informative point of view its even better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Even if some one doesn't like some thing that is shown or talk about then the response should always be informative
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


FM2 has had a LOT of road bumps, but shine in Price/performance. Stacking a grand+ into a system that can't take significant advantages of a proper liquid cooling system does kind of take away it's price/performance advantage so I can kind of see his point with that; it's in no way a polished turd, but the glory of FM2s price/performance gets drowned out by the cost of all that equipment. XD. With the drop of Kaveri I have a feeling that will change, but I haven't seen any legit testing/comparisons yet.

Anyways, let's just all agree on the conclusion that gold aurora is brilliant.


----------



## Jimhans1

And the gold does look awesome, any chance it might be a "stock" item at some point and not just a "one-off" special?


----------



## cyphon

You also don't know all of his motivations or what he had before the build our what was given. Perhaps he didn't have to buy the cpu or reused the MB which would offset the cost of the wc stuff especially if he didn't have to buy something else

I've seen people OC the FM2 cpus over 5GHz too.

Maybe he just wants to be a badass and have a completely silent machine. or just have a sweet looking rig, cause it is pretty jawsome

My WIP is actually a FM2 machine that will be a HTPC that I'm going to wc. I want the thing to run silent, plus I'm using v the integrated graphics (no other gpu) and may do some OC on at least the graphics part.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You also don't know all of his motivations or what he had before the build our what was given. Perhaps he didn't have to buy the cpu or reused the MB which would offset the cost of the wc stuff especially if he didn't have to buy something else
> 
> I've seen people OC the FM2 cpus over 5GHz too.
> 
> Maybe he just wants to be a badass and have a completely silent machine. or just have a sweet looking rig, cause it is pretty jawsome
> 
> My WIP is actually a FM2 machine that will be a HTPC that I'm going to wc. I want the thing to run silent, plus I'm using v the integrated graphics (no other gpu) and may do some OC on at least the graphics part.


Run it in hybrid crossfire with a low profile GPU.









If you haven't gotten the hardware yet Kaveri just dropped, so with it's steamroller cores it'll be lightyears above the those Piledriver based APUs.

Free hardware is a good point though.

While we're here, any chance you can help us with this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Just a quick question for everyone in the know...
> 
> But what is the best combination to get as close as humanly possible to MDPC's toxic green?




OP Doesn't want UV, so I'm at a loss here at how to achieve a similar color since that sleeving has a reflective glow.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Run it in hybrid crossfire with a low profile GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you haven't gotten the hardware yet Kaveri just dropped, so with it's steamroller cores it'll be lightyears above the those Piledriver based APUs.
> 
> Free hardware is a good point though.
> 
> While we're here, any chance you can help us with this
> 
> 
> OP Doesn't want UV, so I'm at a loss here at how to achieve a similar color since that sleeving has a reflective glow.


I bought the hardware at the beginning of the month, so I already got it and partially installed, so still on the piledrivers. I think I got a decent deal on the 6800k tho so I'm not worried. It should still be overkill for video playback and in-home streaming.

As far as the green goes, perhaps the pastel mint green and add a touch of deep blue dye to darken and deepen the greenness. Tho may need just a touch of orange or yellow dye to make it not go too blue. None of that is UV either


----------



## Mayhem

It still needs loads more work for the gold to work properly. When i get some spare time ill be re making it for him how ever its not a 5 min job and getting the right constancy takes time. As for a stock item i don't know i may make a few larger batches for sale in the shop but the old gold never did sell well so i don't know if its worth all the effort.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It still needs loads more work for the gold to work properly. When i get some spare time ill be re making it for him how ever its not a 5 min job and getting the right constancy takes time. As for a stock item i don't know i may make a few larger batches for sale in the shop but the old gold never did sell well so i don't know if its worth all the effort.


True, I don't see gold having been a big seller previous, but there are so many boards now with gold on them, maybe a small batch might work for those that want to incorporate it into theme? If available, I'd take a couple of bottles, then snag an Asus board to do the build. Keep us posted please.......


----------



## s0up2up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> As far as the green goes, perhaps the pastel mint green and add a touch of deep blue dye to darken and deepen the greenness. Tho may need just a touch of orange or yellow dye to make it not go too blue. None of that is UV either


So do you think the Emerald green dye would be dark enough to help that cause or do I just need to snag some blue dye?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> So this is Mayhem's Deep Red dye and distilled.
> 
> 
> 
> I've got 3 bottles of Pastel Red concentrate I bought but never used taunting me and I'll be draining and re-jiggering the loop this weekend. What do you think, stay with the translucent ruby or go opaque red.


I have two bottles of pastel and 2 bottles of deep red dye in + 1.4 liters of DW 1.9 Liters of coolant .... was going for a color match with Mushkin Redline / RoG Red ..... pastel looked like a strawbery slushie .... a bit too pink for my taste..... the dye added some color but ..... the add a drop and let mix advice i thru out the window..... was more like add a bottle and then look









It's changed but still not there.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You also don't know all of his motivations or what he had before the build our what was given. Perhaps he didn't have to buy the cpu or reused the MB which would offset the cost of the wc stuff especially if he didn't have to buy something else
> 
> I've seen people OC the FM2 cpus over 5GHz too.
> 
> Maybe he just wants to be a badass and have a completely silent machine. or just have a sweet looking rig, cause it is pretty jawsome
> 
> My WIP is actually a FM2 machine that will be a HTPC that I'm going to wc. I want the thing to run silent, plus I'm using v the integrated graphics (no other gpu) and may do some OC on at least the graphics part.
> 
> 
> 
> Run it in hybrid crossfire with a low profile GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you haven't gotten the hardware yet Kaveri just dropped, so with it's steamroller cores it'll be lightyears above the those Piledriver based APUs.
> 
> Free hardware is a good point though.
> 
> While we're here, any chance you can help us with this
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s0up2up*
> 
> Just a quick question for everyone in the know...
> 
> But what is the best combination to get as close as humanly possible to MDPC's toxic green?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> OP Doesn't want UV, so I'm at a loss here at how to achieve a similar color since that sleeving has a reflective glow.
Click to expand...



Mint green seems super close to that already and isnt UV.


----------



## iamkraine

This mayhem pastel ice white has a yellowish tint. It is nowhere near as white as I thought it would be. Is it suppose to be this color?
This is a picture of it next to noise blocker eloops.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> This mayhem pastel ice white has a yellowish tint. It is nowhere near as white as I thought it would be. Is it suppose to be this color?
> This is a picture of it next to noise blocker eloops.


That's not right, the glass on the right is Mayhems Pastel, the one on the left is milk.


----------



## Mayhem

whats it look like in a glass not a plastic bottle.


----------



## Jameswalt1

...and with decent lighting


----------



## haritz85

Well, it's been 1 year since I started using mayhems pastel ice white + UV laser green. I have to say that the performance is still the same and color hasn't change. Great Stuff Mayhems!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> This mayhem pastel ice white has a yellowish tint. It is nowhere near as white as I thought it would be. Is it suppose to be this color?
> This is a picture of it next to noise blocker eloops.


It should be really white...whiter than milk white.

Sometimes the container can make it look yellowish. Or if your lighting is bad. Have you used it yet or did you just mix it? If you used it, then it could have picked up some rad flux and other crap in the loop and if you run it through some coffee filters then it will clear it up

Here is a shot of my res with white and orange


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It should be really white...whiter than milk white.
> 
> Sometimes the container can make it look yellowish. Or if your lighting is bad. Have you used it yet or did you just mix it? If you used it, then it could have picked up some rad flux and other crap in the loop and if you run it through some coffee filters then it will clear it up
> 
> Here is a shot of my res with white and orange


No I just mixed it and that's what concerns me. When I get home ill put it in a glass and check out if the color looks different.

Any other explanation besides the container?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> No I just mixed it and that's what concerns me. When I get home ill put it in a glass and check out if the color looks different.
> 
> Any other explanation besides the container?


-May have been contaminated at some point in it's life time.
-May have been from a defective batch.

Dozens of explanations could be a valid theory, but ultimately there's only 2 things you can do:

1: Put it in a proper glass with adequate lighting

or

2: If it's a faulty coolant throw Mayhems customer support an email and get a new one. XD

Mayhems is insane about how much customer support they have.

So yeah, if it's indeed a bad bottle it'll get replaced. XD


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> No I just mixed it and that's what concerns me. When I get home ill put it in a glass and check out if the color looks different.
> 
> Any other explanation besides the container?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> -May have been contaminated at some point in it's life time.
> -May have been from a defective batch.
> 
> Dozens of explanations could be a valid theory, but ultimately there's only 2 things you can do:
> 
> 1: Put it in a proper glass with adequate lighting
> 
> or
> 
> 2: If it's a faulty coolant throw Mayhems customer support an email and get a new one. XD
> 
> Mayhems is insane about how much customer support they have.
> 
> So yeah, if it's indeed a bad bottle it'll get replaced. XD


I doubt it is a bad batch or anything. I am pretty sure it is just container and lighting. Mine looked yellow in a plastic container with bad lighting as well. I will see if I can reproduce it with the little bit of white I have left.

Alternatively, there could have been something in your mixing bottle that reacted with the fluid. Was the bottle clean and sanitized when you mixed it?


----------



## Mayhem

yeh we will replace it if its like that. it should be much whiter







.

If you do as ive asked and check it out in a glass. Take a photo and show it on here. if its bad send me you full name, address and telephone with receipt so we can replace the fluid if needs be.


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> yeh we will replace it if its like that. it should be much whiter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> If you do as ive asked and check it out in a glass. Take a photo and show it on here. if its bad send me you full name, address and telephone with receipt so we can replace the fluid if needs be.


I just took a couple of poctures of it outside. One in an acrylic tube and the other in a glass.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> yeh we will replace it if its like that. it should be much whiter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> If you do as ive asked and check it out in a glass. Take a photo and show it on here. if its bad send me you full name, address and telephone with receipt so we can replace the fluid if needs be.
> 
> 
> 
> I just took a couple of poctures of it outside. One in an acrylic tube and the other in a glass.
Click to expand...

Dumb question but you did use distilled water right?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I just took a couple of poctures of it outside. One in an acrylic tube and the other in a glass.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Looks a lil off still


----------



## Mayhem

Check PM ref details for a replacement


----------



## VSG

Excellent customer service there, Mick, +1


----------



## stickg1

That looks how my Ice White looked after a month when PPCs sent me PRO instead of Advance LRT. Although when I drained the loop my coolant was still icy white and not off white milky colored. But in your case, it looks a little dark. You sure you used a clean container and quality distilled water?


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That looks how my Ice White looked after a month when PPCs sent me PRO instead of Advance LRT. Although when I drained the loop my coolant was still icy white and not off white milky colored. But in your case, it looks a little dark. You sure you used a clean container and quality distilled water?


[
Yeah I'm positive. Flushed the container several times with distilled water. But the coolant was that color as soon as it came out of the bottle and before I added distilled water. I actually thought it would become whiter as soon as I added water. I thought maybe it was that color because it was concentrate.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> [
> Yeah I'm positive. Flushed the container several times with distilled water. But the coolant was that color as soon as it came out of the bottle and before I added distilled water. I actually thought it would become whiter as soon as I added water. I thought maybe it was that color because it was concentrate.


For whatever reason it seems messed up. I think this is the first time I've seen it look like that out of the bottle

I'd send your info over to Mayhem and he'll straighten it out.


----------



## laszlo panaflex

Loving the pastel mint green coolant so far in my first ever custom loop.

Question though: is it supposed to have a blueish tint? I think my coolant looks more teal than green. I thought it would be more of a bright green. I realize its a pastel color so its not going to be super bright, but it appears more teal in real life than in the picture. I used distilled water and a clean container.

If that is how its supposed to look, any suggestions on how to make the color more similar to the sleeved cables?


(cut my cable management some slack...still working on it lol)


----------



## stickg1

I thought that's what Pastel Mint Green was supposed to look like.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laszlo panaflex*
> 
> Loving the pastel mint green coolant so far in my first ever custom loop.
> 
> Question though: is it supposed to have a blueish tint? I think my coolant looks more teal than green. I thought it would be more of a bright green. I realize its a pastel color so its not going to be super bright, but it appears more teal in real life than in the picture. I used distilled water and a clean container.
> 
> If that is how its supposed to look, any suggestions on how to make the color more similar to the sleeved cables?
> 
> 
> (cut my cable management some slack...still working on it lol)


My guess would be some green and yellow dye. Just a touch of yellow, and a moderate amount of green.

I'd wait for Cyphons comment, he's better at the matching stuff than me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I thought that's what Pastel Mint Green was supposed to look like.


I'm fairly certain it is. He has a pretty tricky color to match as it's a kind of reflective green, giving it a sort of glow... Coolant doesn't like to glow without UV, and he doesn't want to go the UV route.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah I feel he would have been better off with some X1 and a mix of laser green and emerald green dyes. Maybe even a touch a yellow.

My X1 and Purple should come today! Want to play with it so bad but I should probably wait until my next package comes because it has a few fittings I wanted to swap.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah I feel he would have been better off with some X1 and a mix of laser green and emerald green dyes. Maybe even a touch a yellow.
> 
> My X1 and Purple should come today! Want to play with it so bad but I should probably wait until my next package comes because it has a few fittings I wanted to swap.


I know the feeling, my rig is currently taken apart so I can work on the DIY chassis and I just got some oil black, UV pink, and UV blue dye and it's killing me trying to keep myself from mixing it up, but I need to wait until the loop is all put together.

X1 greens would have been hard to match with the sleeving, it would clash with the sleeving a lot since one has kind of a passive look, and the other has a shiny look.


----------



## Mayhem

We had a look if you don't shake the concentrate it looks like that. We think all though we could be wrong the user hasn't shaken the bottle before using it. We will be replacing the liquid never the less and see what happens.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We had a look if you don't shake the concentrate it looks like that. We think all though we could be wrong the user hasn't shaken the bottle before using it. We will be replacing the liquid never the less and see what happens.


So are you back to doing PR and customer support, or is this just because you have a break between projects?


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> tbh that's a bit of a arrogant point of view. Not every one is a Intel fan boy and some people use what they have or have been given and turn it into what they have. I think personally he has done a very good job and its very stylish and unusual and if its a AMD then fair enough. It is not about how deep you pockets go but what you with what you have. Any one can throw money down the drain and buy fast CPUs and HDD and GPUs but not every one can turn what they have into art work ...... BTW we use FM2 systems as well for testing and work ... your point is invalid.


Probably one of the very few brave comments I have seen in this us vs. them mindset that seems to transcend forums everywhere. Such is the nature of a hobby; very personal and passionate, but not so private.









Anyway, i made my first foray into the Mayhem world by ordering a few XT-1s. These arrived yesterday. I will be using these primarily for corrosion control with DW, and secondarily as a colorant for aesthetics. Hope I picked the right products, as I am running nickel, copper and brass in my loop.


----------



## Mayhem

in-between every thing yup im doing the support again. How ever i don't have that much time for it. As for bakes, no i dont have any lol .... POO happens as they say.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> Probably one of the very few brave comments I have seen in this us vs. them mindset that seems to transcend forums everywhere. Such is the nature of a hobby; very personal and passionate, but not so private.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, i made my first foray into the Mayhem world by ordering a few XT-1s. These arrived yesterday. I will be using these primarily for corrosion control with DW, and secondarily as a colorant for aesthetics. Hope I picked the right products, as I am running nickel, copper and brass in my loop.


X1 would have been fine for corrosion control, but XT-1 works too.

Throw up some shots of your rig once it's all filled. XD
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> in-between every thing yup im doing the support again. How ever i don't have that much time for it. As for bakes, no i dont have any lol .... POO happens as they say.


POOP happens

people
order
our
products

Lol

Can't wait to see what Mayhems rolls out next.


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> X1 would have been fine for corrosion control, but XT-1 works too.
> 
> Throw up some shots of your rig once it's all filled. XD


Yep, shots my rig, once done, is something I would like to see too .









I have been rebuilding my loop for such a long time that I forgot why I tore it down in the first place.








By the time I am done, I think my gpus will be obsolete.








It's a multi gpu build in one of them fully modular cases.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> Probably one of the very few brave comments I have seen in this us vs. them mindset that seems to transcend forums everywhere. Such is the nature of a hobby; very personal and passionate, but not so private.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, i made my first foray into the Mayhem world by ordering a few XT-1s. These arrived yesterday. I will be using these primarily for corrosion control with DW, and secondarily as a colorant for aesthetics. Hope I picked the right products, as I am running nickel, copper and brass in my loop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> X1 would have been fine for corrosion control, but XT-1 works too.


Yeah, XT-1 will work, but I tend to recommend X1 or pastel unless you really need a glycol based fluid (sub-ambient is really the use case that comes to mind). X1/Pastel has all the corrosion inhibitors so you can use mixed metals.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> Yep, shots my rig, once done, is something I would like to see too .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been rebuilding my loop for such a long time that I forgot why I tore it down in the first place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the time I am done, I think my gpus will be obsolete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a multi gpu build in one of them fully modular cases.


lol


----------



## Mayhem

Gotto love reading this forums some times.

provost XT1 will do you fine







.


----------



## radicalrev

Hi,

Newbie to coolants/dyes here. Just want to get a quick answer.

I seen the videos of mixing Ice White pastel w/red & blue dye to get a blood red pastel color. However, I wonder if I mix Pastel red w/blue dye, will it achieve the same blood red pastel look? Since Mayhem products isn't readily available in my country, I have only access to pastel red.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radicalrev*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Newbie to coolants/dyes here. Just want to get a quick answer.
> 
> I seen the videos of mixing Ice White pastel w/red & blue dye to get a blood red pastel color. However, I wonder if I mix Pastel red w/blue dye, will it achieve the same blood red pastel look? Since Mayhem products isn't readily available in my country, I have only access to pastel red.


It should, I'd pick up some red and blue dye though, just incase the blue drowns out whatever amount of dye is in the normal Pastel Red.


----------



## laszlo panaflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> My guess would be some green and yellow dye. Just a touch of yellow, and a moderate amount of green.
> 
> I'd wait for Cyphons comment, he's better at the matching stuff than me.
> I'm fairly certain it is. He has a pretty tricky color to match as it's a kind of reflective green, giving it a sort of glow... Coolant doesn't like to glow without UV, and he doesn't want to go the UV route.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I thought that's what Pastel Mint Green was supposed to look like.


Yeah I realize it is supposed to look subdued but I think mine looks more teal than the example pictures on Mayhem's website. My picture doesn't really seem to convey exactly what I'm seeing, I'll take another picture in natural light and in a glass to see if I can show the color better.

Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## Anoxy

If my loop is currently running only distilled water and a silver killcoil, is adding a few drops of Mayhem's dye harmless?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> If my loop is currently running only distilled water and a silver killcoil, is adding a few drops of Mayhem's dye harmless?


You are good to go


----------



## stickg1

Man this sucks. PPCs sent me XT-1 instead of the X1 Clear that I ordered. On top of that the bottle leaked and a good 25mL-50mL is missing and all over the rest of the stuff I ordered. This isn't the first time PPCs.com has screwed up my order. If they don't fix this I'm done with them.

I was so excited to come home and mix up my purple koolaid and fill my loop. Now I have to wait yet again for the right stuff.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Here is the blue coolant from my other system. It is a heavily diluted pastel. The white pastel just allows me to control the shade of the coolant a bit more.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4262-1.jpg.html


This is from a while ago, but how can I achieve this color. Is it diluted blue berry pastel with some white pastel?


----------



## VSG

That looks too transparent to be pastel, but may be I am mistaken.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> This is from a while ago, but how can I achieve this color. Is it diluted blue berry pastel with some white pastel?


That's distilled or X1 Clear with blue dye.


----------



## Anoxy

In the post I quoted, lowfat says "It is a heavily diluted pastel"

So I'm just wondering what color he actually used.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Man this sucks. PPCs sent me XT-1 instead of the X1 Clear that I ordered. On top of that the bottle leaked and a good 25mL-50mL is missing and all over the rest of the stuff I ordered. This isn't the first time PPCs.com has screwed up my order. If they don't fix this I'm done with them.
> 
> I was so excited to come home and mix up my purple koolaid and fill my loop. Now I have to wait yet again for the right stuff.


PPCs.com is going to fix it. They're sending me out the X1 tomorrow morning.

Can I use XT-1 if I'm not going sub-ambient? And if so what sort of dilution would I use? Just 5% and that gives me anti-corrosion anti-algae protection for ambient cooling?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> This is from a while ago, but how can I achieve this color. Is it diluted blue berry pastel with some white pastel?


Distilled + white pastel + deep blue + purple

I changed it to a non pastel a few months back and IMO it looks much better.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-17-5.jpg.html


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> This is from a while ago, but how can I achieve this color. Is it diluted blue berry pastel with some white pastel?


Maybe ask him directly, but I think he took pastel and just added extra water. He definitely used some dye to get that color tho. I am not sure if he started with white or blue pastel

EDIT: He ninja posted lol....


----------



## Roxycon

@lowfat

Is it plastidip you have used on your mb heatsinks and interface connections?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> @lowfat
> 
> Is it plastidip you have used on your mb heatsinks and interface connections?


looks like good old fashioned Krylon to me. But it is hard to tell in that pic


----------



## stickg1

Sorry to be annoying but what's the skinny on this XT-1? What ratio do I use for ambient cooling? Is it okay to use this way? Also how hard is it to flush when I replace with X1?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> @lowfat
> 
> Is it plastidip you have used on your mb heatsinks and interface connections?


Yes.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Sorry to be annoying but what's the skinny on this XT-1? What ratio do I use for ambient cooling? Is it okay to use this way? Also how hard is it to flush when I replace with X1?


It's mainly ethylene glycol...

About 5% concentration should be good for corrosion protection and as a biocide. Ethylene glycol is used for car loops... So it's used to keep aluminum, copper, and god knows what else in a vehicles loop from ripping eachother apart....... Ethylene glycol is very toxic to the point of being lethal at 114ml of ethylene glycol, but according to his website Mayhems uses additives in it that inhibit breakdown during digestion so according to Mayhems it "Has been tested and classified as Non-Toxic 1 by an EPA 2certified laboratory."

So yeah... Now to the specifics.

E.G. Acts as a biocide, a corrosion inhibitor in the form of an ionic buffer, a surfactant, decreases freezing temp, increasing boiling temp, is a fairly inexpensive chemical in of itself, and doesn't react badly with common materials used for liquid cooling hardware.

I've heard high concentrations can cause micro-fracturing of acrylic but at 5% I wouldn't worry about that.

The downside: It has poor thermal conductivity and a low thermal capacity. It will decrease efficiency by a notable margin. If you normally have a 10celcius dT I'd guess probably around 1celcius hotter at 5% but that's just a shot in the dark.
So yeah, glory, guts, and all it's a good coolant, but X1 is best for your standard


----------



## stickg1

Okay, I'll keep it for a rainy day. Or if I can get my hands on a chiller or Peltiers.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Okay, I'll keep it for a rainy day. Or if I can get my hands on a chiller or Peltiers.


LOL

Peltiers are awesome, be sure to poke around in the TEC forums if you start contemplating a chiller. Lots of helpful people in there.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Yes.


Awesome, no increase in temps or any abnormaties?
Pretty sure i can get better results in using plastidip rather than vinyl wrap









Btw, when you take the pictures any coolant colour looks good


----------



## stickg1

I also enjoy lowfats photography. His builds are pretty too.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems pricing has always been steady since we started and we've always managed to keep the pricing the same. However in that time we have seen several price increases on some of the products we use such as bottles, stickers and child safety caps. Because of all of this were going to remove the spouts from our 1 Ltr premixed range as these are not really needed add it is better to remove something that isn't needed than passing on the costs to the consumer (once we run out of spouts they will no longer be added). Also the new improved Aurora is seeing a welcomed price drop from £14.99 to £9.99.

With the latest trend of 5 Ltr variants of fluids being introduced by several manufacture's / resellers we will be looking at producing a small range of 5 Ltr X1 (Clear, Red, Blue), Last but not least we will be increasing the amount of concentrate for XT1 from 125mls to 250mls (so you can make 6 Ltrs of fluid from the concentrate). There will be slight price increase on the new 250ml bottle of XT1 but it will still work out cheaper than any other brand on the market. All these new introductions and changes will be rolled out in the next few weeks and will slowly filter though to our resellers.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Sorry to be annoying but what's the skinny on this XT-1? What ratio do I use for ambient cooling? Is it okay to use this way? Also how hard is it to flush when I replace with X1?


Be aware of any warrantees you may have the are voided if ya use EG........PrimoChill for one.


----------



## devilhead

Hi, trying to bleed my mining rig with mayhems pastel white 2 liters and that is impossible...
Maybe those reservoir is bad http://www.electronics.balticmart.eu/index.php?mact=Products%2Ccntnt01%2Cdetails%2C0&cntnt01productid=203802&hl=en_US , but i run single loop with 2x pumps, first try was to run with distilled water, it was hard to bleed, but possible. With mahyems liquid it is a lot small bubbles which stuck in all my system.....4 days trying to bleed with 0 luck







) My loop pump's with res ---> 3x360 rad's- 4 gpu's in parallel








any suggestions? tryed all pumps speed, liquid levels, reservoir places...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> Hi, trying to bleed my mining rig with mayhems pastel white 2 liters and that is impossible...
> Maybe those reservoir is bad http://www.electronics.balticmart.eu/index.php?mact=Products%2Ccntnt01%2Cdetails%2C0&cntnt01productid=203802&hl=en_US , but i run single loop with 2x pumps, first try was to run with distilled water, it was hard to bleed, but possible. With mahyems liquid it is a lot small bubbles which stuck in all my system.....4 days trying to bleed with 0 luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) My loop pump's with res ---> 3x360 rad's- 4 gpu's in parallel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any suggestions? tryed all pumps speed, liquid levels, reservoir places...


Pastel is opaque, how do you know there are bubbles in it? Just curious. Because usually, with my systems, the pastel is really fast at bleeding the air out. Also, I've never used a bay res, only tube, so I don't know if that might be contributing to the issue......


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Pastel is opaque, how do you know there are bubbles in it? Just curious. Because usually, with my systems, the pastel is really fast at bleeding the air out. Also, I've never used a bay res, only tube, so I don't know if that might be contributing to the issue......


it's able to see those bubbles







i have my main system with red mayhems liquid with, no problems(2x5 pumps with XSPC res for 2x d5 pumps)







i think it is the main problem the reservoir







but strange that i was able to drain those system with water


----------



## stickg1

Whoa, this purple dye is some potent stuff!! This is about 700mL of distilled with 9 drops ocean blue and three drops purple. What do we think?



It looks a lot less purple in actual tubing. Less liquid and more spread out. I might need another drop of purple. I'll mix in my X1 when it comes. Fill the loop and see how it looks under the LEDs. Hopefully purple but not Barney.


----------



## VSG

I think that looks pretty killer even in the tubing, the only issue with dark colors is that the reservoir always tends to look much darker.


----------



## stickg1

If I want it darker, I will do it once it's in the loop. But I only have about 800mL of liquid total in my system so I will probably pull about 100mL out (maybe just drain the res or something), then mix a drop of purple with about 300mL of distilled and top off that 100mL I extracted. That should be less drastic than a full drop of purple. One drop of purple really seems to go a long way.

EDIT:
Jeez, I'm a dumb***. I'm draining my current ocean blue water soon anyway, and purple goes a long way. I'll only use about 3 drops and there's a good 75 to 100 in this bottle. I'll just add a drop or two in my current loop so I can see it in the LED lighting, tubing, and res. I can't believe it took me this long to think of that LOL.










Here...this is three drops of purple on top my approx 8 drop Ocean Blue mix I was running previously. (oh and don't mind the weird radiator orientations and seemingly random inapporpriate fittings, ive been tinkering trying to find optimal performance for what I have and ran out of fittings and tubing so I used whatever was in the parts box)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> If I want it darker, I will do it once it's in the loop. But I only have about 800mL of liquid total in my system so I will probably pull about 100mL out (maybe just drain the res or something), then mix a drop of purple with about 300mL of distilled and top off that 100mL I extracted. That should be less drastic than a full drop of purple. One drop of purple really seems to go a long way.
> 
> EDIT:
> Jeez, I'm a dumb***. I'm draining my current ocean blue water soon anyway, and purple goes a long way. I'll only use about 3 drops and there's a good 75 to 100 in this bottle. I'll just add a drop or two in my current loop so I can see it in the LED lighting, tubing, and res. I can't believe it took me this long to think of that LOL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here...this is three drops of purple on top my approx 8 drop Ocean Blue mix I was running previously. (oh and don't mind the weird radiator orientations and seemingly random inapporpriate fittings, ive been tinkering trying to find optimal performance for what I have and ran out of fittings and tubing so I used whatever was in the parts box)


I'd put a couple more drops in make it really pop with the yellow


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> If I want it darker, I will do it once it's in the loop. But I only have about 800mL of liquid total in my system so I will probably pull about 100mL out (maybe just drain the res or something), then mix a drop of purple with about 300mL of distilled and top off that 100mL I extracted. That should be less drastic than a full drop of purple. One drop of purple really seems to go a long way.
> 
> EDIT:
> Jeez, I'm a dumb***. I'm draining my current ocean blue water soon anyway, and purple goes a long way. I'll only use about 3 drops and there's a good 75 to 100 in this bottle. I'll just add a drop or two in my current loop so I can see it in the LED lighting, tubing, and res. I can't believe it took me this long to think of that LOL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here...this is three drops of purple on top my approx 8 drop Ocean Blue mix I was running previously. (oh and don't mind the weird radiator orientations and seemingly random inapporpriate fittings, ive been tinkering trying to find optimal performance for what I have and ran out of fittings and tubing so I used whatever was in the parts box)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd put a couple more drops in make it really pop with the yellow
Click to expand...

Yellow / purple . . . Looks wayyy too ghetto. . . . . All you need with that is a giant gold rhinestone dollar sign on a fake gold chain

Go back to the blue, that looked classy.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'd put a couple more drops in make it really pop with the yellow


True, right now it looks like really weak grape Koolaid, like the type mom would make because it's "healthier." But any Koolaid pro knows to use double flavor packets!!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yellow / purple . . . Looks wayyy too ghetto. . . . . All you need with that is a *giant gold rhinestone dollar sign on a fake gold chain*
> 
> Go back to the blue, that looked classy.


That's actually a good idea!! It can be a Memphis, TN / Oakland, CA pimp theme! Hang some fuzzy dice and maybe find a leopard print vinyl for my PSU.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yellow / purple . . . Looks wayyy too ghetto. . . . . All you need with that is a giant gold rhinestone dollar sign on a fake gold chain
> 
> Go back to the blue, that looked classy.


I liked the blue too but if you are gonna go purple, you gotta do it right ab andd make it bold


----------



## stickg1

This is 3 more drops. I actually like it. I think it will look better when I have a strand of purple paracord here and there when I start sleeving.


----------



## IT Diva

Sheeeesh . . . .

I gotta stop painting in the house, about a rattle can and a half of lacquer and the world seems a different place . . .

humblest apologies if I've offended anyone . .

D.


----------



## stickg1

lol



I'm not offended btw. Everyone likes a different style or flavor. That's why there's so many options available out there.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's actually a good idea!! It can be a Memphis, TN / Oakland, CA pimp theme! Hang some fuzzy dice and maybe find a leopard print vinyl for my PSU.


Don't forget the Purple Velour hat wit da Yellow Feather!!


----------



## VSG

Maybe the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat from Seinfeld too


----------



## Supacasey

About to make a liter of Pastel White for my loop, I've got a good amount of 45 and 90 degree fittings, that's not a problem right? Won't cause any staining or gunking with my Primochill Advanced LRT?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supacasey*
> 
> About to make a liter of Pastel White for my loop, I've got a good amount of 45 and 90 degree fittings, that's not a problem right? Won't cause any staining or gunking with my Primochill Advanced LRT?


Should be fine, it's Aurora that has issues with 90 degree fittings, pastel is fine with it.

Glycol and copper sulphate gunk, pastel isn't a glycol based coolant and I don't know why you'd add copper sulphate so I don't even see HOW it could gunk.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supacasey*
> 
> About to make a liter of Pastel White for my loop, I've got a good amount of 45 and 90 degree fittings, that's not a problem right? Won't cause any staining or gunking with my Primochill Advanced LRT?


It shouldn't, I've been running pastels of different colors in systems with Adv LRT for a couple of years now, I do an annual drain and inspection to check things out and then refill the loop with the same fluid that came out of it. Never had any issues with either of the products (Adv LRT & Pastel), the X-1, especially red can stain the tubing over time, but it flushed out of the loop in the system I had it in. Enjoy the loop, and enjoy your temps!!


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> lol
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not offended btw. Everyone likes a different style or flavor. That's why there's so many options available out there.


I'm thinking Mayhem's isn't the ideal choice for your build. I'd go with a few bottles of this instead:


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroakV*
> 
> I'm thinking Mayhem's isn't the ideal choice for your build. I'd go with a few bottles of this instead:


Lol, what if you had a cold and realized you used all your cough syrup on the loop?


----------



## CroakV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Lol, what if you had a cold and realized you used all your cough syrup on the loop?


----------



## stickg1

LOL, that's exactly what I was going for!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Awesome, no increase in temps or any abnormaties?
> Pretty sure i can get better results in using plastidip rather than vinyl wrap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, when you take the pictures any coolant colour looks good


No part that I plasti dipped throws any heat so they fine. I did plasti dip the tops of the heatsinks in another build and it still runs fine.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> No part that I plasti dipped throws any heat so they fine. I did plasti dip the tops of the heatsinks in another build and it still runs fine.


Nice, then ill dip mine too







now only to decide if ill use some vinylwrap over the in/outlets of my gpu's to simulate the ek bridge







what do you guys think?



Im also changing the order of the loop to go card2in>card1in>card1out>card2out>around the back>cpu in>cpu out, just to clean it up a little more


----------



## strong island 1

Hey guys. I just bought mayhems ice white pastel. I have a white sth10 and i am going all acryllic. At first i thought white would look awesome but now I am thinking white fluid against a white case might not look that great. Has anyone been able to mix a nice colored silver or grey. I guess i would use the white and then add some drops of black and then maybe some blue. Thanks for any advice or help anyone has.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Hey guys. I just bought mayhems ice white pastel. I have a white sth10 and i am going all acryllic. At first i thought white would look awesome but now I am thinking white fluid against a white case might not look that great. Has anyone been able to mix a nice colored silver or grey. I guess i would use the white and then add some drops of black and then maybe some blue. Thanks for any advice or help anyone has.


Incorrect.

You need green and a little red for grey. Roughly 11 green drops to 1 red drop per shade of grey


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Incorrect.
> 
> You need green and a little red for grey. Roughly 11 green drops to 1 red drop per shade of grey


\
wow that's interesting. Thanks a lot for the video. i was way off. I'm going to fill it up with the white first to see how it looks and then if i don't like it try to mix grey.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> \
> wow that's interesting. Thanks a lot for the video. i was way off. I'm going to fill it up with the white first to see how it looks and then if i don't like it try to mix grey.


No worries. It is definitely not what you'd expect, lol. As said in the video, because dyes are translucent and you have light to deal with, it doesn't quite work the same as when you are mixing paints or something. Good luck and let us know how it goes


----------



## M3TAl

Straight black could look good in a really white case.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Straight black could look good in a really white case.


Yeah, you are probably right. I'd just buy black pastel in that case tho


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Incorrect.
> 
> You need green and a little red for grey. Roughly 11 green drops to 1 red drop per shade of grey
> 
> 
> 
> \
> wow that's interesting. Thanks a lot for the video. i was way off. I'm going to fill it up with the white first to see how it looks and then if i don't like it try to mix grey.
Click to expand...

I just take a picture of my rig and use photoshop the tube into any colors I want to see what's best before actually doing it.


----------



## iamkraine

Thats a great idea. I'm gonna have to use that one day.


----------



## stickg1

My Mayhems collection is growing! I wish I would have strained and saved my White Pastel. Was kinda foolish just wasting it like that.


----------



## VSG

lol I can't wait till next week and you got more to join the family


----------



## djriful

*Don't we all love chemicals?*


----------



## Roxycon

Have anyone of you experienced such stains on acrylic? And do you know what could be causing this? Can only find it on the bayres output


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol I can't wait till next week and you got more to join the family


lol, yeah dude. New month, new color scheme, DUH!

Did I miss breast cancer awareness month? Pink pastel would be kind of hot!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> Have anyone of you experienced such stains on acrylic? And do you know what could be causing this? Can only find it on the bayres output


That doesn't look like dye or coolant scaling, it looks like radiator flux. After they make radiators they VERY rarely flush it out, and it usually has flux on the surface of the solder points. Did you flush your radiator before filling it all up?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> Have anyone of you experienced such stains on acrylic? And do you know what could be causing this? Can only find it on the bayres output


Did you get that res new or secondhand? It looks like a red coolant was used in it previous and never cleaned out well......


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Did you get that res new or secondhand? It looks like a red coolant was used in it previous and never cleaned out well......


Red dye staining wouldn't be localized to a single point.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Red dye staining wouldn't be localized to a single point.


I didn't say staining, it looks like it's old congealed coolant, which is why I asked if it was used or new res. I was just posing a theory. But that's hard to say without having it in hand. And the fact that it's only in that one area so localized that I'm sure it's not the pastel white he is using.


----------



## Roxycon

I didnt have any problems with the radiators running in my previous build so i didnt bother more than completely getting out the previous coolant









Guess flushing all the gear will go on my to do list in the next teardown then









Do i have to exchange the coolant i have now too, you think?


----------



## cyphon

To me it looks too concentrated to be rad flux and too localized to be dye/stain.

If that is where the fitting plugs in (which it does look like that from the pic), I'd guess it is a corrosion or rust some how.

I'd drain the loop and take a look at it. You can save your fluid and strain it through a coffee filter then reuse it


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> I didnt have any problems with the radiators running in my previous build so i didnt bother more than completely getting out the previous coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess flushing all the gear will go on my to do list in the next teardown then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do i have to exchange the coolant i have now too, you think?


Unless you added a new radiator, as in fresh from the store, it shouldn't have radiator flux still in it if you've previously filled it.

Run the coolant through a coffee filter.

Edit: Cyphon ninja posted on me. XD


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I didn't say staining, it looks like it's old congealed coolant, which is why I asked if it was used or new res. I was just posing a theory. But that's hard to say without having it in hand. And the fact that it's only in that one area so localized that I'm sure it's not the pastel white he is using.


The res was bought off of fcpu, i cant stand red in computers, mostly, so have never fiddled with red dye other than a build for a buddy of mine









Reused parts was most of the fittings, a 360 rad and all the blocks. Ran clear coolant in the system when testing before the final assembly though

The tint on the red reminds me of a glue my father used on some windshilds on some of his old cars if thats to any help


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Unless you added a new radiator, as in fresh from the store, it shouldn't have radiator flux still in it if you've previously filled it.
> 
> Run the coolant through a coffee filter.
> 
> *Edit: Cyphon ninja posted on me. XD*


----------



## Pheozero

Is there a Pastel Purple floating around somewhere? If so, I can't find it on PPC or FCPU.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Is there a Pastel Purple floating around somewhere? If so, I can't find it on PPC or FCPU.


You could try ordering directly from their shop.

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/raspberry-purple-250ml.html


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Is there a Pastel Purple floating around somewhere? If so, I can't find it on PPC or FCPU.


There Mayhems Pastel - Raspberry Purple but you can mix them yourself with dyes.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Is there a Pastel Purple floating around somewhere? If so, I can't find it on PPC or FCPU.


Pastel Ice White and blue and red dye would be your best bet, the only thing that comes to mind is Mayhems Pastel Blueberry Purple, but that's not really purple.


----------



## Pheozero

Hmm... I was kinda hoping for the one Snef had in his Purple Chimera build. Although, I'm not opposed to using purple dye. I'll think on it a bit more. Thanks guys


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Hmm... I was kinda hoping for the one Snef had in his Purple Chimera build. Although, I'm not opposed to using purple dye. I'll think on it a bit more. Thanks guys


PM him, best to go straight to the source as most people always alter their pastel a bit even if it's already a factory dyed color so yeah.


----------



## Jameswalt1

I think I remember reading Snef said his was purple pastel was as it came unaltered.


----------



## _REAPER_

I am thinking about changing out my fluid maybe going with just distilled or black. What do you guys think


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am thinking about changing out my fluid maybe going with just distilled or black. What do you guys think


I think swapping to acrylic tubing, and rerouting the tubing a bit to add some distance would show off the pastel more. XD

Clear is so boring, but black would be cool.

Just my opinion.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I am thinking about changing out my fluid maybe going with just distilled or black. What do you guys think
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


X1 Oil Black


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> X1 Oil Black


Personally I think pastel black would look better there, but to each their own.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Personally I think pastel black would look better there, but to each their own.


Pastel Black has stability issues, and can turn brown. I believe it may have been discontinued. I could be wrong but I think I remember reading that. If there is a revised version of pasted black then yes I agree


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Pastel Black has stability issues, and can turn brown. I believe it may have been discontinued. I could be wrong but I think I remember reading that. If there is a revised version of pasted black then yes I agree


If it's discontinued, then they are still selling old stock, because it shows as in stock with FCPU, PPCS and the EK store.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If it's discontinued, then they are still selling old stock, because it shows as in stock with FCPU, PPCS and the EK store.


Right, I can't find the link that where I read about it but I'm pretty sure the brown thing is a pretty known issue


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Right, I can't find the link that where I read about it but I'm pretty sure the brown thing is a pretty known issue


Hmmm, I'll need to research that. Thanks.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Pastel Black has stability issues, and can turn brown. I believe it may have been discontinued. I could be wrong but I think I remember reading that. If there is a revised version of pasted black then yes I agree


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If it's discontinued, then they are still selling old stock, because it shows as in stock with FCPU, PPCS and the EK store.


Yes it was discontinued. I am not sure if they are working on a new version or not. What is left in the stores should be old stock


----------



## glintch

Does anyone know if I used the Clear UV Blue die and use it to water leak test. What happens to components that get touched by the UV die after they dry and how easy would it be to wash off. Last I want is a CSI looking scene inside my case if I use the UV die too early. But is one of the benefits of being able to spot a leak early.


----------



## 15goudreau

Personally I would just use paper towels and DI water.... You should be able to tell if it's leaking on the paper towel pretty quickly.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glintch*
> 
> Does anyone know if I used the Clear UV Blue die and use it to water leak test. What happens to components that get touched by the UV die after they dry and how easy would it be to wash off. Last I want is a CSI looking scene inside my case if I use the UV die too early. But is one of the benefits of being able to spot a leak early.


So, you 'could' do this, but leaks are generally easy enough to spot without the use of a dye. Another thing you need to keep in mind is if you want that fluid in your loop in the long run or not. If you do not want the UV effect, then you will need to do several full system flush and drains to get all of the UV dye out. And, UV is a pain to get out sometimes.

Any big leak you will be able to catch right away obviously. Small leaks you will see fairly quickly too. I strongly recommend just using the DI water and paper towels


----------



## glintch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> So, you 'could' do this, but leaks are generally easy enough to spot without the use of a dye. Another thing you need to keep in mind is if you want that fluid in your loop in the long run or not. If you do not want the UV effect, then you will need to do several full system flush and drains to get all of the UV dye out. And, UV is a pain to get out sometimes.
> 
> Any big leak you will be able to catch right away obviously. Small leaks you will see fairly quickly too. I strongly recommend just using the DI water and paper towels


Leaks are not as concerned. Ran a test loop and with 3/8' to 5/8 tubes and all compression fittings I am not anticipating issues.

Actually really more focusing on debating Clean EK blocks vs black Acetal. Got two Acetal Nickel blocks now on hand now.

I do want the UV look. But not sure if I would change the colors. I am ok with changing out tubing.

So UV tubing or solid UV tubes are a better approach?


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glintch*
> 
> Leaks are not as concerned. Ran a test loop and with 3/8' to 5/8 tubes and all compression fittings I am not anticipating issues.
> 
> Actually really more focusing on debating Clean EK blocks vs black Acetal. Got two Acetal Nickel blocks now on hand now.
> 
> I do want the UV look. But not sure if I would change the colors. I am ok with changing out tubing.
> 
> So UV tubing or solid UV tubes are a better approach?


Personally I would go with clear tubing and UV dye. I tried going the UV route on tubing and it lasted ~6 months before it didn't have any effect on the tubing anymore. Also with dye once it starts to fade you just add more UV dye, instead of replacing all your tubing when it fades.

UV Dye is particular to pH levels though, so you will want to test your loops pH before adding in the dye. You want as close to neutral as possible (7)


----------



## stickg1

I filled up with some X1 today. I was a little worried and thought I messed it up. I put about 100mL of it in a plastic bottle, about 700mL of distilled and some dye and shook it up. The it got all bubbly. Instead of doing the sensible thing and letting the bubbles simmer down I was like "F all that!" and dumped it in my loop. Then it really went nuts! But after a few minutes it was fine. This is the color I settled with..


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Pastel Black has stability issues, and can turn brown. I believe it may have been discontinued. I could be wrong but I think I remember reading that. If there is a revised version of pasted black then yes I agree


It was sensitive to pH, so flushing with a bicarb and using distilled water could entirely avoid that issue. All pastels are subject to discoloration due to imbalanced pH, some just a LOT more so than others. Thankfully many are not very sensitive at all, so you only see it once every blue moon. It is a very rare issue, but I've seen it happen a couple times, not just with black.

It was here that you saw it was discontinued... That was a few months ago, and Mayhems Mick said they were going to try and revise it to be less sensitive. Since it's on the market, and they discontinued it a while ago I think that may be a sign that it was revised and rereleased but it would be wise to wait for a comment from mick about that.

Even if it's the old formula, proper flushing with a bicarb had been the solution to the discoloration problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hmmm, I'll need to research that. Thanks.


See above comment.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Thanks for the clarification, I knew I wasn't crazy


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Thanks for the clarification, I knew I wasn't crazy


Oh, you are still crazy, but your correct crazy.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Oh, *you are still crazy,* but your correct crazy.


Aren't we all?
Chances are if you're OCN you have a couple loose bolts in your sanity processor. XD


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Oh, *you are still crazy,* but your correct crazy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aren't we all?
> Chances are if you're OCN you have a couple loose bolts in your sanity processor. XD
Click to expand...

Much as we who have stayed in the "islands", but are not originally from the "islands", have come to understand;

"We're all here, because we're not all there".

Darlene


----------



## Mayhem

Hi there pastel Black was stopped while we try and find a more tolerant product to replace it.we haven't released it since so any stock left over will just be old stock. It still has a shelf life of 3 years so it should be oky as long as you don't use "full" copper radiators or if you are washing them out correctly with bi carb should do the trick.

Were investigating new base products that may be much better at keeping fluid PH stable over a long period of time.


----------



## M3TAl

What is the proper way to wash out all copper rads? All I did for these NexXxos rads is hot water and shake like crazy multiple times. Maybe this is why my tubing turned green in 2-3 weeks time.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What is the proper way to wash out all copper rads? All I did for these NexXxos rads is hot water and shake like crazy multiple times. Maybe this is why my tubing turned green in 2-3 weeks time.


Green tubing sounds like an algae issue... Did you use a biocide?

Anyways, flushing with a bicarb, one table spoon of baking soda per liter of hot water. Fill your loop with that, run it for a half hour or so, then flush and fill.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi there pastel Black was stopped while we try and find a more tolerant product to replace it.we haven't released it since so any stock left over will just be old stock. It still has a shelf life of 3 years so it should be oky as long as you don't use "full" copper radiators or if you are washing them out correctly with bi carb should do the trick.
> 
> Were investigating new base products that may be much better at keeping fluid PH stable over a long period of time.


Hi @Mayhem
Does that apply to all of the Pastels? I only ask because I've used the Pastel Red and Pastel white with zero issues, and my radiators are all "all copper" rads. Is the base substance for the black a different product? How would you recommend the radiators be wash with sodium bicarbonate? I was wanting to use the pastel black in a store display system, but if I need to worry about it turning a chocolate color, I'll stick with the Pastel Red.

Thoughts please sir, when you can. Thanks from SoCal.

Edit: Is the black X-1 afflicted with the same issue? If not, I might just go that route.....


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Green tubing sounds like an algae issue... Did you use a biocide?
> 
> Anyways, flushing with a bicarb, one table spoon of baking soda per liter of hot water. Fill your loop with that, run it for a half hour or so, then flush and fill.


I posted about it in the plasticizer thread and here. It's not algae, the tubing is like absorbing oxidation from the copper? Someone else in the plasticizer thread had Durelene too and looked exactly like mine. Only difference his took 1 year to look like mine did in 2-3 weeks.

I'm using Pastel Ice White.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi there pastel Black was stopped while we try and find a more tolerant product to replace it.we haven't released it since so any stock left over will just be old stock. It still has a shelf life of 3 years so it should be oky as long as you don't use "full" copper radiators or if you are washing them out correctly with bi carb should do the trick.
> 
> Were investigating new base products that may be much better at keeping fluid PH stable over a long period of time.


I Will wait until a more stable product is released thank you for the info.


----------



## Mayhem

X1 hasn't got the same issue as Pastel because it doesn't contain all of the same ingredients to make it work.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi there *pastel Black* was stopped while we try and find a more tolerant product to replace it.we haven't released it since so any stock left over will just be old stock. It still has a shelf life of 3 years *so it should be oky as long as you don't use "full" copper radiators* or if you are washing them out correctly with bi carb should do the trick.
> 
> Were investigating new base products that may be much better at keeping fluid PH stable over a long period of time.


Is this only applies to Mayhem Black Pastel?

I have full copper radiators with Ice White Pastel...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Is this only applies to Mayhem Black Pastel?
> 
> I have full copper radiators with Ice White Pastel...


Mayhem put a not out about this awhile back.

I think the problem with the full copper rads is that if they are not cleaned appropriately, the copper can oxidize and make the pH more acidic. When this happens, the fluid can change colors, such as red->brown. Pastel is pretty sensitive to pH, however, the black I think was moreso for whatever reason.

If you appropriately clean your rads out, you are fine. There are many, many people that have full copper everything with pastel and no issues. It really comes down to prep


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Is this only applies to Mayhem Black Pastel?
> 
> I have full copper radiators with Ice White Pastel...
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhem put a not out about this awhile back.
> 
> I think the problem with the full copper rads is that if they are not cleaned appropriately, the copper can oxidize and make the pH more acidic. When this happens, the fluid can change colors, such as red->brown. Pastel is pretty sensitive to pH, however, the black I think was moreso for whatever reason.
> 
> If you appropriately clean your rads out, you are fine. There are many, many people that have full copper everything with pastel and no issues. It really comes down to prep
Click to expand...

My Primochill Advanced LRT tubing came with the Sysprep bottle and I used it to clean/flush the system for 12 hrs before draining everything out and add the Mayhem Ice White pastel in.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> My Primochill Advanced LRT tubing came with the Sysprep bottle and I used it to clean/flush the system for 12 hrs before draining everything out and add the Mayhem Ice White pastel in.


You will probably be ok. You should always flush your rads with hot water first though too. Helps get all the rad flux and crap out of the rads


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi there pastel Black was stopped while we try and find a more tolerant product to replace it.we haven't released it since so any stock left over will just be old stock. It still has a shelf life of 3 years so it should be oky as long as you don't use "full" copper radiators or if you are washing them out correctly with bi carb should do the trick.
> 
> Were investigating new base products that may be much better at keeping fluid PH stable over a long period of time.


Wait What??? I just got pastel pure black, whats wrong with it?? I have 2 420 Copper Rads, and going to use acrylic tubing...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Wait What??? I just got pastel pure black, whats wrong with it?? I have 2 420 Copper Rads, and going to use acrylic tubing...


It is just more sensitive to pH and full copper rads can cause pH to go more acidic. Make sure you flush your rads with bicarbonate and you will be fine


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> X1 hasn't got the same issue as Pastel because it doesn't contain all of the same ingredients to make it work.


I love X1.


----------



## stickg1

I forget who recommended the purple, but I love you! I went a tad darker, it looks hawt. Even my wife said something about it looking nice with the new color.

I was being silly and tried to stick in another rad. Doesn't look the best, but those temps! 8C delta..

X1 Clear, Ocean Blue, and Purple. My phone kind of sucks at capturing these pictures. Maybe one of these days I'll invest in a better camera.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> X1 hasn't got the same issue as Pastel because it doesn't contain all of the same ingredients to make it work.


Then why does X1 have such a shorter lifespan than pastel?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Then why does X1 have such a shorter lifespan than pastel?


BECAUSE it's made with different stuff. There is always a drawback to things in chemistry, pastel is opaque and long life, but ph sensitive; X-1 is translucent and ph stable, but shorter life........


----------



## Anoxy

I know, I was just curious what constituent of X-1 is responsible for it's shorter life, and what exactly causes that.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I know, I was just curious what constituent of X-1 is responsible for it's shorter life, and what exactly causes that.


Well, hopefully Mayhems will have that answer for us tomorrow. All I know is I love both of them in there own right, and use them according to what suits the build.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Wait What??? I just got pastel pure black, whats wrong with it?? I have 2 420 Copper Rads, and going to use acrylic tubing...


There's nothing wrong with it per-say, it's just really sensitive to pH imbalances. As cyphon said, flush with a bicarb; one tablespoon of baking soda to a liter of distilled water, flush with that and it should neutralize the loop so when you do the fill nothing wacks out the pastel black.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I forget who recommended the purple, but I love you! I went a tad darker, it looks hawt. Even my wife said something about it looking nice with the new color.
> 
> I was being silly and tried to stick in another rad. Doesn't look the best, but those temps! 8C delta..
> 
> X1 Clear, Ocean Blue, and Purple. My phone kind of sucks at capturing these pictures. Maybe one of these days I'll invest in a better camera.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Then why does X1 have such a shorter lifespan than pastel?


Because glob said so, that's why!


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I forget who recommended the purple, but I love you! I went a tad darker, it looks hawt. Even my wife said something about it looking nice with the new color.
> 
> I was being silly and tried to stick in another rad. Doesn't look the best, but those temps! 8C delta..
> 
> X1 Clear, Ocean Blue, and Purple. My phone kind of sucks at capturing these pictures. Maybe one of these days I'll invest in a better camera.


I am liking the purple it really makes your rig stand out.


----------



## nathanblandford

i know this is a pretty silly question but i have a few bottles of distilled water (with not much info on the label, bought at kmart one night) and i just got my mayhems x1 concerntrate (thought i bought premixed, oh well) and i was wondering if it would make a huge difference to use distilled instead of de-ionized as the instructions say??


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> i know this is a pretty silly question but i have a few bottles of distilled water (with not much info on the label, bought at kmart one night) and i just got my mayhems x1 concerntrate (thought i bought premixed, oh well) and i was wondering if it would make a huge difference to use distilled instead of de-ionized as the instructions say??


I wouldn't worry about it, cheap off brand distilled should be perfect. The only time I'd emphasize the use of high quality deionized is if you're using a sensitive coolant, a beta-testing liquid, or a UV reactive dye without a concentrate.

X1 is a pretty flexible concentrate, so to speak. It takes a LOT to mess it up.


----------



## rickyman0319

I have 2 or 3 x 1 gal of distilled water. what can I use to make color coolant? i know i can use dye. can i use other coolant except dye for it? what do u guys recommend?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have 2 or 3 x 1 gal of distilled water. what can I use to make color coolant? i know i can use dye. can i use other coolant except dye for it? what do u guys recommend?


There isn't much other than dyes you can do on your own, the next step is adding nanopowders but that isn't something you can do without experience. I mean you COULD do it, but chances are you're going to mess something up in your loop.

If you want something other than dyes, the next step is Mayhems Pastel or Mayhems Aurora.


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I wouldn't worry about it, cheap off brand distilled should be perfect. The only time I'd emphasize the use of high quality deionized is if you're using a sensitive coolant, a beta-testing liquid, or a UV reactive dye without a concentrate.
> 
> X1 is a pretty flexible concentrate, so to speak. It takes a LOT to mess it up.


cheers, just wasnt sure


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> Have anyone of you experienced such stains on acrylic? And do you know what could be causing this? Can only find it on the bayres output


Some sort of reaction with the glue ?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Some sort of reaction with the glue ?


Exactly what i thought at first


----------



## borax

Hey, I have purchased some mayhems pastel uv lime yellow coolant which will be in a Primochill ctr compression res, I've also got a bitspower g1/4 stop fitting with a 3 mm uv bulb inside, if I am to use this directly in the ress would it create an effect of glow within the ress itself?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borax*
> 
> Hey, I have purchased some mayhems pastel uv lime yellow coolant which will be in a Primochill ctr compression res, I've also got a bitspower g1/4 stop fitting with a 3 mm uv bulb inside, if I am to use this directly in the ress would it create an effect of glow within the ress itself?


It would with x1 but not likely to happen with pastel. Pastel is opaque, and light doesn't pass through it very well so internal light likely wouldn't be visible. It might glow a little as UV light penetrates better than the visible light spectrum, but I wouldn't count on it.


----------



## borax

@ZytheEKS

Thanks for the info mate appreciated.. I thought that would be the case, I think ide be enter of using the light in another place.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

edit


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Exactly what i thought at first


And at 2nd ?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> And at 2nd ?


Well..

2nd, wanted to ask you guys
And 3rd, back to a glue reaction of some sort


----------



## devilhead

so which tubing not react with Mayhems pastel? Because now duralene in one week gets yellow







before had primochill, tygon 3603 + EK clear coolant both tubing after month get yellow








so now in my main rig run red pastel with acrylic tubing with no problems







but my mining rig i run white pastel with duralene tubing(clear tubing gets yellow).... so if not the primochill, tygon, duralene, what else? acrylic tubing is not good for me, because of outside rad


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> so which tubing not react with Mayhems pastel? Because now duralene in one week gets yellow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> before had primochill, tygon 3603 + EK clear coolant both tubing after month get yellow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so now in my main rig run red pastel with acrylic tubing with no problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but my mining rig i run white pastel with duralene tubing(clear tubing gets yellow).... so if not the primochill, tygon, duralene, what else? acrylic tubing is not good for me, because of outside rad


Which Primochill tube?

The Primochill Advanced LRT is the current recommended soft tube for Pastel and I haven't seen any problems with it. The PRO LRT had issues.
I have a rig running XSPCs tube w/ Pastel Blue in it for 6mo or so now and haven't had any issues with it

Also, is the tube yellowing or the fluid? If the fluid is turning yellow, you probably haven't flushed your rads well enough before filling the loop and/or you have a pH imbalance


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

I just recently purchased 4 bottles of Mayhems Aurora extinction green concentrate, can i just add this to distilled water to dilute and use? or do i have to use de-ionized water or anything special, also how many gallons will i need to dilute 1000ml of aurora concentrate.

I also have Phobya ZuperZero, but i'm worried that this coolant might have inhibitors and other chemicals that may throw off the balance of the Aurora Concentrate, any recommendations?


----------



## stickg1

Don't put in any extra biocides or corrosion inhibitors, it's already got them in there. Each 250mL bottle of concentrate is to be added to 500mL of distilled water. So 500x4 = 2000mL which is a hair over half a gallon.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Nice, then ill dip mine too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now only to decide if ill use some vinylwrap over the in/outlets of my gpu's to simulate the ek bridge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> Im also changing the order of the loop to go card2in>card1in>card1out>card2out>around the back>cpu in>cpu out, just to clean it up a little more


How does this setup work in the picture above, i am also considering doing the exact same thing for my 780 Ti's and 4930k.

How does it work and does it work well, it looks so much better then other ways


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> I just recently purchased 4 bottles of Mayhems Aurora extinction green concentrate, can i just add this to distilled water to dilute and use? or do i have to use de-ionized water or anything special, also how many gallons will i need to dilute 1000ml of aurora concentrate.
> 
> I also have Phobya ZuperZero, but i'm worried that this coolant might have inhibitors and other chemicals that may throw off the balance of the Aurora Concentrate, any recommendations?


Zuper Zero contains 1.2% glycol I'm pretty sure, can't remember which kind off the top of my head.

I wouldn't use it with aurora but that's just because I'm over cautious, I'm sure Mayhems will chime in on this in not too long.
Aurora is basically X1 with lots of dyes and pearlecent nano-particles, so I don't think X1 would react adversely as it's a very versatile coolant from what I've seen from it, but I'm not sure about the nano particles. I honestly wouldn't waste time waiting on a response though, just go to a local grocery store or convenience store and pick up a gallon of distilled water. Those super ultra mega pure waters used for liquid cooling are really just marketing gimmicks. Sure they might be notably more pure than distilled water, but were talking the difference between a few parts per million, your loop won't care.

500ml of distilled water to 250ml of concentrate, so one liter of distilled water to 2 bottles of concentrate. With 4 bottles of concentrate you'd use 2 liters of of distilled water, and make 3liters of coolant.

After you mix shake VERY well before filling the loop because I have a feeling you'll have some left over, and you want the nanoparticles to be pretty evenly distributed between liquid in the loop, and liquid left in the bottle. Or just mix in your loop, but that requires you to know how much coolant you have in your loop prior to adding.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Don't put in any extra biocides or corrosion inhibitors, it's already got them in there. Each 250mL bottle of concentrate is to be added to 500mL of distilled water. So 500x4 = 2000mL which is a hair over half a gallon.


So i should just use Distilled water? is there any particular one worth using over another, or just goto Walmart and buy some distilled water lol


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> So i should just use Distilled water? is there any particular one worth using over another, or just goto Walmart and buy some distilled water lol


They'll have a big section of it at Walmart, I usually get a brand I've heard of at least. But they should all be good.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> I just recently purchased 4 bottles of Mayhems Aurora extinction green concentrate, can i just add this to distilled water to dilute and use? or do i have to use de-ionized water or anything special, also how many gallons will i need to dilute 1000ml of aurora concentrate.
> 
> I also have Phobya ZuperZero, but i'm worried that this coolant might have inhibitors and other chemicals that may throw off the balance of the Aurora Concentrate, any recommendations?


Yes, you can use Distilled water with the Aurora without issue, and if memory serves Aurora Concentrate makes a total of 750ml per bottle (250ml concentrate + 500ml Distilled = 750ml Total).

So, if you have 4 bottles of concentrate, that's 500ml of Distilled needed per bottle (4x500ml = 2000ml=2 Liters), so you would need 2 Liters of Distilled, so if you buy 1 gallon of distilled (gallon=3.78 Liters) you will be ok.

MAKE SURE you follow the Aurora Wiki before you do anything else, since you have run a different coolant in the system!!!! Here is the link to it, http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/aurora-guide.html#.UurlQrSKzcs

Edit: Ninja posted by @stickg1


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

So 4 bottles of concentrate to just barely over half a gallon should work fine?


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yes, you can use Distilled water with the Aurora without issue, and if memory serves Aurora Concentrate makes a total of 750ml per bottle (250ml concentrate + 500ml Distilled = 750ml Total).
> 
> So, if you have 4 bottles of concentrate, that's 500ml of Distilled needed per bottle (4x500ml = 2000ml=2 Liters), so you would need 2 Liters of Distilled, so if you buy 1 gallon of distilled (gallon=3.78 Liters) you will be ok.
> 
> MAKE SURE you follow the Aurora Wiki before you do anything else, since you have run a different coolant in the system!!!! Here is the link to it, http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/aurora-guide.html#.UurlQrSKzcs


I have flushed the radiator with warm tap water and vinegar, then rinsed it with distilled water, i will probably repeat the distilled water once all my blocks arive and just run with all blocks connected with distilled water for about an hour then drain, is that good?

I'm using a Koolance external unit.

http://koolance.com/erm-2k3u-rev1-0-liquid-cooling-system


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> How does this setup work in the picture above, i am also considering doing the exact same thing for my 780 Ti's and 4930k.
> 
> How does it work and does it work well, it looks so much better then other ways


Plan your loop carefully if you're going to do something like that, you need a GPU block and a CPU block that have similar pressure drops at the given flow you plan on using them at, which will likely be around .5-.7 GPM with one GPU and a CPU, or .3-.5GPM with 2GPUs and 1 CPU, i because since they're in parallel your loops flowrate will be split between them and coolant will take the path of least resistance, which means if you want good thermals on all of them you want flowrates to be similar.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> So 4 bottles of concentrate to just barely over half a gallon should work fine?


Never guesstimate. ;P

Normally with X1 or pastel you wouldn't have to worry about perfect mixing ratio, but Aurora has issues with the nano particles staying in suspension. They like to deposit themselves in every nook and cranny in your loop, so if you under-saturate them they will be more likely to deposit themselves in your loop, over-saturate them and you'll have excessive buildup around your loop.

Most liquid measuring cups have ml on them, so just measure with those.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

I'm using the XSPC Razor Titan/780/780 Ti blocks and EK CSQ cpu Block.

I'm just worried that this aurora liquid isn't going to last or potentially cause problems this is my 24/7 gaming machine, but aurora just looks too good.

So should i just do GPU's in parralel and run the CPU as normal and run GPU's in parralel?

Would i be losing too much flow to CPU doing it like shown in the picture posted


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> I have flushed the radiator with warm tap water and vinegar, then rinsed it with distilled water, i will probably repeat the distilled water once all my blocks arive and just run with all blocks connected with distilled water for about an hour then drain, is that good?
> 
> I'm using a Koolance external unit.
> 
> http://koolance.com/erm-2k3u-rev1-0-liquid-cooling-system


Are you trying to use the Aurora for everyday usage??? Or are you doing this for a show/photo shoot?? just curious, as even the folks at Mayhems have said that it was NOT meant for everyday usage.......


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

it would be everyday use.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> How does this setup work in the picture above, i am also considering doing the exact same thing for my 780 Ti's and 4930k.
> 
> How does it work and does it work well, it looks so much better then other ways


It is setup so that the GPUs are running parallel with the CPU acting as the "final" part of the loop that brings the inlet of the parallel towards the outlet. As mentioned, this splits up the flow of your loop, so you'd have to run a pump strong enough to handle splitting it's flow while having to go up against gravity.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

The pump in this koolance external unit is a PMP-450

Maximum Flow Rate: 15L/min (4.0 gal/min) @ 12V, 17.5L/min (4.6 gal/min) @ 24V
Maximum Head Pressure: 3.9m (12.8ft) @ 12-24V
Motor: Brushless DC, electronically commutated, spherical motor
Expected Lifetime: 50,000 hrs. MTBF (5.7 years)
Power: 8-24 VDC, 3-35W, 0.30-1.50A
Startup Voltage: 9 to 13.2 VDC
Maximum System Pressure: 3.5 kgf/cm2 (50 PSI)
Maximum Temperature: 60°C (140°F)
Electrical Connector: 4-pin Molex power supply connection + 3-pin (single lead) tach
Hose Connections: 13mm (1/2") ID hose barbs
Wetted Materials: PPO, Carbon/Allumina Ceramic, EPDM or Viton, 316 SS
Noise: Less than 40dBA
Weight: 862g (1.9lbs)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> I'm using the XSPC Razor Titan/780/780 Ti blocks and EK CSQ cpu Block.
> 
> I'm just worried that this aurora liquid isn't going to last or potentially cause problems this is my 24/7 gaming machine, but aurora just looks too good.
> 
> So should i just do GPU's in parralel and run the CPU as normal and run GPU's in parralel?
> 
> Would i be losing too much flow to CPU doing it like shown in the picture posted


... You're not going to get away with 3 waterblocks with aurora. How many radiators do you have, and what radiators? Aurora can last up to a year in a loop properly designed for it. It can also last less than a couple days in a loop not optimized for it. Keep in mind when I say it will only last a couple days, I mean the pearls will fall out of suspension, and deposit themselves around the loop. It may look kind of shoddy at that point, but it shouldn't effect thermals at all.

Here's what I'd do, have a dual loop. One loop with the Aurora for the CPU, with a single dual row radiator, and put everything else in another loop with pastel and match the color of the pastel to the color of the aurora.

Otherwise you're not going have the aurora in suspension for very long...


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

its a external Koolance unit, linked earlier with what looks like a single big rad inside, maybe like 3x360 equivalent

Maybe i should just stick to a premix green coolant?


----------



## Roxycon

@NiNoDuKEz

Writing pm now







and yes that is how the blocks work with eachother but its not as simple as a block getting 1/3 of the flow since the supremacy is slightly more restrictive than my 680 blocks but according to both my testing premodding and assembly of the case and ek's charts (dont know if other companies let go of such information, but they sure should) the blocks are within margin of making such setup possible...

And to be frank, the gravity is not a big issue, cause this setup is the easiest ive bled out of the 5 different loops ive set up, well if we dont count in one of my stopfittings beggining to leak


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> its a external Koolance unit, linked earlier with what looks like a single big rad inside, maybe like 3x360 equivalent
> 
> Maybe i should just stick to a premix green coolant?


... Stick to pastel, that's just no way aurora will work with that setup...

The issue is how radiators are made: 

See the lanes protruding out of the chambers?? The pearls build up on those. So dual row 120mm are really the biggest you want to use, radiator length is highly irrelevant to that because longer lanes won't effect how many lanes there actually are. So, for instance a 5.120mm radiator would work much better with aurora than 2x 2.120mm radiators.

Your radiator is massive, and has tons of those chambers. If you REALLY want to use aurora you could probably invest no more than 2 bills to get a loop setup for your CPU, and have it last a good amount of time, then use your crazy external setup to cool the GPUs.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

well this is disappointing 8 (

Aurora will be here tomorrow, guess ill just have to wait and order a different coolant and postpone my build


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> well this is disappointing 8 (
> 
> Aurora will be here tomorrow, guess ill just have to wait and order a different coolant and postpone my build


Aurora has a 2 year shelf life, I'm sure you'll find a use for it before then. Just keep it in a nice cool, dark room like a closet. Don't keep it in your garage, too hot or too cold. The temp fluctuation in most garages won't be good for it.

You could always throw it on the OCN market place if you just want to get rid of it. Honestly a dual loop with aurora and pastel of the same color would be pretty cool, but if you can't manage it then you can't manage it.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Aurora has a 2 year shelf life, I'm sure you'll find a use for it before then. Just keep it in a nice cool, dark room like a closet. Don't keep it in your garage, too hot or too cold. The temp fluctuation in most garages won't be good for it.
> 
> *You could always throw it on the OCN market place if you just want to get rid of it.* Honestly a dual loop with aurora and pastel of the same color would be pretty cool, but if you can't manage it then you can't manage it.


He can't do that, ZERO rep.......................


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

in the near future when i get more play cash i will build a fully custom loop instead of the external, or use external for GPU's only as you mentioned but currently i dont have the extra cash to build a seperate loop for CPU


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

If i used the Aurora, im assuming its a real hassle to change the liquid after, cause of the nano particles.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> If i used the Aurora, im assuming its a real hassle to change the liquid after, cause of the nano particles.


Gotta flush out the system VERY VERY well afterwards......... And I have found that you really should do it in both the normal flow direction for a while, then reverse the flow for a while, and do that several times. it helps getting all the nano-particles out.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Well i guess ill just use the phobya Zuper Zero coolant until i choose another green coolant to replace it with, any recommendations for a good looking green to match my black/green nvidia kinda theme


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> in the near future when i get more play cash i will build a fully custom loop instead of the external, or use external for GPU's only as you mentioned but currently i dont have the extra cash to build a seperate loop for CPU


If you ever get to it be sure to ask about it all here. Loops build around the recommended aurora compatible parts last longer than loops jury rigged to have parts on the compatibility list.


----------



## Jimhans1

Mayhems Pastel Mint green!!!!!


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

back to the draw boarding to find a good looking green coolant.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Mayhems Pastel Mint green!!!!!


Where is a good place to order that fluid


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> Where is a good place to order that fluid


I guess that depends where in the world you are, if your in the USA, then either www.frozencpu.com or www.performance-pcs.com

If your in Europe, I would say from www.mayhems.co.uk

anywhere else, I have zero clue!!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> back to the draw boarding to find a good looking green coolant.[/quote
> 
> Mayhems has a ton of Pastels with amazing green colors/effects, so that shouldn't be to hard. Honestly I find it kind of annoying how many shades/types of green coolants they have compared to their other spectrum as I don't use green in my builds, but others seem to do some awesome stuff with it.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

I want to thank everyone, one of the best forums i've ever had the pleasure of being a part of, truely impressive.

Reminds me of the old EVGA forums


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> I want to thank everyone, one of the best forums i've ever had the pleasure of being a part of, truely impressive.
> 
> Reminds me of the old EVGA forums


Glad to help out.

And, since your asking questions, and listening to the answers. I'll give you a rep to start you out!!


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Glad to help out.
> 
> And, since your asking questions, and listening to the answers. I'll give you a rep to start you out!!


Thanks!! 8)


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

all of these people in the California area, WHO WANTS TO PLAN A FISHING TRIP?!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> all of these people in the California area, WHO WANTS TO PLAN A FISHING TRIP?!


lol, maybe a hunting trip. every time i go fishing, never catch anything but a hangover!


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> lol, maybe a hunting trip. every time i go fishing, never catch anything but a hangover!


Your not doing anything wrong, your a professional.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> its a external Koolance unit, linked earlier with what looks like a single big rad inside, maybe like 3x360 equivalent
> 
> Maybe i should just stick to a premix green coolant?


I assume it has rad, pump, res in it?

I would not run auroras with an external anything. I wouldn't ever run an external anything either tho









Another problem with the pump/res combos is they can often have dead spots that auroras particles chill out in and fall out of suspension


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

The pump sits directly under the cylinder tube res, and its actually a pretty decent external unit, but i plan on building a custom setup into my case when i get the extra cash, the reason im using this external is cause i've had it for afew years and it served me very well, its basically a pump res and a huge radiator, roughly the size of 3x360
i use it siting upwards so the res sits directly above pump.


----------



## Anfs

Hi all
Just a quick question would their be any use using a silver coil in the res whilst using mayhems pastel coolants.
I'm currently redoing my 900d with acrylic tubing and have the silver coils already in the dual bay res from when I was running distilled water.
Would it create more problems leaving them in or wouldn't it matter.
Thanks


----------



## iamkraine

Thank you Mick for sending me replacement coolant and a little extra to play around with. Never gonna use anything other than Mayhem. Thanks









Gonna post pics of what the Mayhems Pastel Ice White looks like in my build as soon as possible.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> so which tubing not react with Mayhems pastel? Because now duralene in one week gets yellow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> before had primochill, tygon 3603 + EK clear coolant both tubing after month get yellow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so now in my main rig run red pastel with acrylic tubing with no problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but my mining rig i run white pastel with duralene tubing(clear tubing gets yellow).... so if not the primochill, tygon, duralene, what else? acrylic tubing is not good for me, because of outside rad


Well...... I used 95% acrylic and just two short pieces (3" or so) of Tygon 2475 at the pump for vibration dampening..... you might adopt a similar approach with transitioning from acrylic to flex where tubing exits case. I chose the the Tygon 2475 because of it's lack of any plasticizer ..... many "platicizer free" tubings are not plasticizer free, they are just free of a certain type of plasticizer. For example:

"Tygon E-1000 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) - Plasticizer Free Flexible Tubing (ADK00027)"

Read the fine print:

"Soft and flexible, new Tygon® E-1000 Non-DEHP Laboratory Tubing delivers the same superior performance you have come to expect from Tygon® tubing but now in a formulation that *contains non-DEHP [Bis (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate] plasticizers*. "

Plasticizer free tubings, and by that I mean totally free are less flexible as it is the plasticizer that makes in easily bendable (flexible.). The 2475 series can't be bend to more than a 1.5" radius or it will kink. It's not totally clear .... has a slight haze to it which is noticeable when empty. But it has the lowest water absorption figures (0.01 %) .... the E-1000 is 0.29%. The lower the number, the less staining of the tube you will see as no coolant is "absorbed" by the tubing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> I'm using the XSPC Razor Titan/780/780 Ti blocks and EK CSQ cpu Block.
> 
> I'm just worried that this aurora liquid isn't going to last or potentially cause problems this is my 24/7 gaming machine, but aurora just looks too good.
> 
> So should i just do GPU's in parralel and run the CPU as normal and run GPU's in parralel?
> 
> Would i be losing too much flow to CPU doing it like shown in the picture posted


The "concerns" about Aurora are quite a bit overblown..... the folks commenting on other youtube demo videos parroting "it will clog up all your blocks in 48 hours" have obviously never used it. For example there's another youtube video of a dude who used it for 9 months .... including a 5 week shutdown without any ill effects.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7eboct_ckQ

Read his answers to all the clogging / settling questions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7eboct_ckQ
Quote:


> Sorry for very late reply.. somehow missed this so apologies for this.... Yes your correct the fluid is mainly for show.. But I had in my system for around 8>9 months and there was no fouling of my blocks or reservoirs at all..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for temps.. I did do a review on the temps compared to other fluids and the Aurora was only +1°c to +2°c (from memory) difference to Distilled water.. So no big shakes really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. Again very sorry for late reply & thanks for your time in giving feedback.


Again, not saying you can just throw it in anywhere willy nilly just that take the comments from non-users with a grain ..... or kilo-grain







..... of salt . If you dig, you can find users with loops similar to your own.

I'd recommend 2 GPUs in parallel and the CPU getting full flow .... w/ 4 GPUs, two parallel subloops in series .... 3 presents a dilemma ..... I wouldn't go parallel with 3 unless ya had a beefy pump and could run > 0.50 gpm thru each GPU..... Unless CPU gets hot and PWM brings up pump speed, I typically have 0.75 gpm thru the GPUs and 1.5 thru the CPU..... that goes up 50% if CPU temps > 70C ..... and yes, ... try and stick to all approved parts if ya can and avoid the parts listed on Aurora sites as problematic

After two GPUs, a CPU and maybe a MoBo block, I'd start to question whether ya really wanted to use Aurora..... the more blocks, the more oomph ya should use pump wise to keep the fluid moving. In any fluid containing suspended particles, there are what are called "critical velocities". The 1st is the velocity which is needed to keep particles from settling out .... the second is the minimum "pick-up" velocity, that which is needed to pick up particles which have settled out. For wastewater, 2.0 fps (feet per second) is the velocity at which suspended particles drop out and 3.3 fps is where they become re-suspended. This stuff is prolly less but those numbers are good for a factor of safety.

Can use this here:

http://apps.engineeringtoolbox.com/head-loss-water-pipe-a_15.html

Length = 3 feet
Design Coefficient = 140
Flow Rate = 1.0 gpm
Diameter = 0.4 (10/12 acrylic tube)

Gives you ....

0.29 (ft H2O) head loss
0.13 (psi) head loss
2.55 (ft/s) velocity

So 1 gpm (2.55 fps) would be is very good for routine (idle) flow rate, you would need 1.3 gpm to pick up any suspended stuff .... remember blocks are quite a bit less flow area than ya tubing so velocity thru there will be greater.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> The pump in this koolance external unit is a PMP-450
> 
> Maximum Flow Rate: 15L/min (4.0 gal/min) @ 12V, 17.5L/min (4.6 gal/min) @ 24V
> 
> Would i be losing too much flow to CPU doing it like shown in the picture posted


You will never see the maximum flow rate.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/04/03/koolance-pmp-450-d5-vario-pump/



You are looking at 0.75 gpm in a high restriction loop (4-5 blocks) and a but under 2.0 in a low restriction (1 blocks) loop.....might wanna think about using 2 pumps in series or multiple loops to maintain 0.75 gpm per GPU if ya have > 2 GFX cards.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Hi all
> Just a quick question would their be any use using a silver coil in the res whilst using mayhems pastel coolants.
> I'm currently redoing my 900d with acrylic tubing and have the silver coils already in the dual bay res from when I was running distilled water.
> Would it create more problems leaving them in or wouldn't it matter.
> Thanks


The pastels are "engineered coolants" ... they have everything you need and the temptation to add anything "extra" should be suppressed







.


----------



## mavisky

Here's an update image of my rig running the UV Emerald Green in primochill UV blue tubing.

I'm going to try and get some night shots this weekend.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_1435_zpsf1f4c980.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_1436_zps83c843f5.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_1437_zps0d088a90.jpg.html

The lines look a dark blue'ish green in daylight. Looking to replace the CCFL tubes with some powerful led's uv LED's though to really make the blue and green pop at day and at night.


----------



## VSG

@stickg1, you got some competition


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Thank you for the awesome response Jack, i sent you a PM


----------



## Anfs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Well...... I used 95% acrylic and just two short pieces (3" or so) of Tygon 2475 at the pump for vibration dampening..... you might adopt a similar approach with transitioning from acrylic to flex where tubing exits case. I chose the the Tygon 2475 because of it's lack of any plasticizer ..... many "platicizer free" tubings are not plasticizer free, they are just free of a certain type of plasticizer. For example:
> 
> "Tygon E-1000 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) - Plasticizer Free Flexible Tubing (ADK00027)"
> 
> Read the fine print:
> 
> "Soft and flexible, new Tygon® E-1000 Non-DEHP Laboratory Tubing delivers the same superior performance you have come to expect from Tygon® tubing but now in a formulation that *contains non-DEHP [Bis (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate] plasticizers*. "
> 
> Plasticizer free tubings, and by that I mean totally free are less flexible as it is the plasticizer that makes in easily bendable (flexible.). The 2475 series can't be bend to more than a 1.5" radius or it will kink. It's not totally clear .... has a slight haze to it which is noticeable when empty. But it has the lowest water absorption figures (0.01 %) .... the E-1000 is 0.29%. The lower the number, the less staining of the tube you will see as no coolant is "absorbed" by the tubing.
> The "concerns" about Aurora are quite a bit overblown..... the folks commenting on other youtube demo videos parroting "it will clog up all your blocks in 48 hours" have obviously never used it. For example there's another youtube video of a dude who used it for 9 months .... including a 5 week shutdown without any ill effects.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7eboct_ckQ
> 
> Read his answers to all the clogging / settling questions.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7eboct_ckQ
> Again, not saying you can just throw it in anywhere willy nilly just that take the comments from non-users with a grain ..... or kilo-grain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... of salt . If you dig, you can find users with loops similar to your own.
> 
> I'd recommend 2 GPUs in parallel and the CPU getting full flow .... w/ 4 GPUs, two parallel subloops in series .... 3 presents a dilemma ..... I wouldn't go parallel with 3 unless ya had a beefy pump and could run > 0.50 gpm thru each GPU..... Unless CPU gets hot and PWM brings up pump speed, I typically have 0.75 gpm thru the GPUs and 1.5 thru the CPU..... that goes up 50% if CPU temps > 70C ..... and yes, ... try and stick to all approved parts if ya can and avoid the parts listed on Aurora sites as problematic
> 
> After two GPUs, a CPU and maybe a MoBo block, I'd start to question whether ya really wanted to use Aurora..... the more blocks, the more oomph ya should use pump wise to keep the fluid moving. In any fluid containing suspended particles, there are what are called "critical velocities". The 1st is the velocity which is needed to keep particles from settling out .... the second is the minimum "pick-up" velocity, that which is needed to pick up particles which have settled out. For wastewater, 2.0 fps (feet per second) is the velocity at which suspended particles drop out and 3.3 fps is where they become re-suspended. This stuff is prolly less but those numbers are good for a factor of safety.
> 
> Can use this here:
> 
> http://apps.engineeringtoolbox.com/head-loss-water-pipe-a_15.html
> 
> Length = 3 feet
> Design Coefficient = 140
> Flow Rate = 1.0 gpm
> Diameter = 0.4 (10/12 acrylic tube)
> 
> Gives you ....
> 
> 0.29 (ft H2O) head loss
> 0.13 (psi) head loss
> 2.55 (ft/s) velocity
> 
> So 1 gpm (2.55 fps) would be is very good for routine (idle) flow rate, you would need 1.3 gpm to pick up any suspended stuff .... remember blocks are quite a bit less flow area than ya tubing so velocity thru there will be greater.
> You will never see the maximum flow rate.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/04/03/koolance-pmp-450-d5-vario-pump/
> 
> 
> 
> You are looking at 0.75 gpm in a high restriction loop (4-5 blocks) and a but under 2.0 in a low restriction (1 blocks) loop.....might wanna think about using 2 pumps in series or multiple loops to maintain 0.75 gpm per GPU if ya have > 2 GFX cards.
> The pastels are "engineered coolants" ... they have everything you need and the temptation to add anything "extra" should be suppressed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thankyou
I will remove the silver coils before I fill the system.
Thanks again for the info


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> @stickg1, you got some competition


After I saw the pic I glanced at the username to make sure it wasn't stickg1.


----------



## stickg1

Drinkin' that Hatorade! While I'm sippin' dat purple drank!

I got some Yellow Pastel coming too. Kind of curious to see how it looks. Got it for super cheap and in a bundle with some fittings and whatnot. Should be nice to add to the collection.


----------



## iamkraine

Mayhems Pastel Ice White. Thanks again Mick


----------



## stickg1

Oh wow, it's so white and nice! What case is that?


----------



## VSG

Seems like an mITX build


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Oh wow, it's so white and nice! What case is that?


Bitfenix Prodigy... very little room to maneuver but a small footprint with powerful results


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Mayhems Pastel Ice White. Thanks again Mick


DMN that is a clean build


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Leak testing now to decide clear or use mayhems Aurora


----------



## Anoxy

Isn't Aurora for show purposes only?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Isn't Aurora for show purposes only?


Yes and no. It is a specialty fluid that should be used with care and proper planning. If done right, It can easily last a year or so. If not, that Is when you see the people saying It only lasts like 2 days lol


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Up and running, time to overclock and do some benches


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> 
> 
> Up and running, time to overclock and do some benches


Oh my... that's... green... very green.....

Looks amazing, just a bit overwhelming.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

my case LED's are too bright, i have a dimmer for them

And yes i am missing on of my fans, they were faulty, awaiting replacement.


----------



## rickyman0319

I have this flow meter (http://koolance.com/ins-fm17n-coolant-flow-meter ). I am wondering if I can use pastel with it or not.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have this flow meter (http://koolance.com/ins-fm17n-coolant-flow-meter ). I am wondering if I can use pastel with it or not.


Depends on your definition of "can".

I would suggest that you can't if you expect long term accuracy, especially if you are not using it in a 24/7 rig.

Here's why . . . . .

I have personally had 3 of them, (the stainless steel body version) either gum up and not even spin at all, or spin slower than they should and read low, in testing with aurora.

It seems there's no question that precipitated particles, gum them up when they settle where flow doesn't reach them to pick them back up into suspension.

Below are a couple pics of white pastel that has been siting for a while, (several weeks) and it's obvious that it precipitates as well, and it's hard to imagine that it isn't negatively impacting the free rotation of the turbine blade in the flow meter.

Since the particles are smaller, it may be easier for them to be picked back up into suspension, or, alternatively, because they are smaller, they may settle more compactly and be harder to get back into suspension.

When I get back to that particular project, it will be interesting to see what flow rate range those setups show with the meters currently installed, and then with new ones installed for comparison.

We'll have to wait a bit on that definitive answer for a while as I have other projects ahead of them.

If you just want to know "approximately" or "is the pump working", accepting probable accuracy degradation, then you can.

My feeling is that if you want to use that type of flow meter, then overall, it's best to use X1 coolants.

Darlene


----------



## rickyman0319

is there any flow meters work well with pastel or coolant?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is there any flow meters work well with pastel or coolant?


I haven't tested X1 as much as I have aurora, but I see no precipitation in my samples that sit for quite a while, so I'd doubt that X1 would have any compatibility issues with that type of flow meter.

I would suspect that the paddle wheel flow meters are more immune than the turbine meters to precipitated particle accumulation, but I don't know of any that actually yield a readout in some worthwhile standard unit of flow, which by my thinking is the reason for a flow meter in the first place.

Darlene


----------



## devilhead

here is duralene after 1 week of using mayhems pastel white, and you can see the difference between acrylic and duralene







) in reality tubing looks more green







time to change tubing


----------



## M3TAl

Looks like my Durelene







. Unfortunately currently I'm not willing to change the tubing out, just going to live with it for now.

Let me know what you replace it with and how it works out


----------



## 15goudreau

Finally got my new build setup with Mayhem's Pastel White and added blue dye... trying to figure out if I want to make it to be darker... not sure


----------



## stickg1

I really like that color. I was thinking of doing that myself. Then I went with purple!

But now, as I said, new month, new color!!

But first to clean out all that purple!



Pretty big run for the pond pump especially with some QDCs and that water filter involved, so I turned on the DDC pump as well..

Then, fill her up with some Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Finally got my new build setup with Mayhem's Pastel White and added blue dye... trying to figure out if I want to make it to be darker... not sure


You need to use deep blue dye. Doesn't look like that is what you are using. You need to use bottles of the stuff too, not just a few drops.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> You need to use deep blue dye. Doesn't look like that is what you are using. You need to use bottles of the stuff too, not just a few drops.


It is deep blue... I have two bottles of the stuff. I just don't know how dark I want to make it yet







. I wanted to poll you guys


----------



## lowfat

I'm a huge fan of ridiculously dark loops. I'd add both bottles for sure.


----------



## 15goudreau

would adding black dye perchance help?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Looks like my Durelene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Unfortunately currently I'm not willing to change the tubing out, just going to live with it for now.
> 
> Let me know what you replace it with and how it works out


I'd implore you to reconsider for your own sanity. Those plasticizers deposit themselves EVERYWHERE in your darn loop. I spent a good hour with a toothbrush and dishsoap cleanining everything on my last disassemble/clean. Even my pumps impeller had a nasty coating of that stuff. It's not just the tubing that suffers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> would adding black dye perchance help?


Do they make black dye? Only thing I know of like that is Mayhems X1 oil black, or pastel black but those aren't dyes.

Oil black is a red/black base, while pastel is a blue/black base. Neither of them just have "Black dye" in them, just a mix of colors that make it black.


----------



## lowfat

There are no black dyes that will work. Stick with just the blue or maybe some purple?

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4170-1.jpg.html


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> There are no black dyes that will work. Stick with just the blue or maybe some purple?
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4170-1.jpg.html


is that with purple? I thought I read somewhere here that someone used black....oh well. I'm going to keep adding more blue


----------



## 15goudreau

That is such a beautiful build... my next one will have acrylic I think...


----------



## 15goudreau

Added the rest of the bottles. It appears lighter than it is cause my camera on my phone sucks











with the lights off


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> is that with purple? I thought I read somewhere here that someone used black....oh well. I'm going to keep adding more blue


Lots of deep blue with some purple to tint.


----------



## stickg1

That looks good!

Made me think of this from Arrested Development...


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That looks good!
> 
> Made me think of this from Arrested Development...










love it


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That looks good!
> 
> Made me think of this from Arrested Development...










Tobias


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd implore you to reconsider for your own sanity. Those plasticizers deposit themselves EVERYWHERE in your darn loop. I spent a good hour with a toothbrush and dishsoap cleanining everything on my last disassemble/clean. Even my pumps impeller had a nasty coating of that stuff. It's not just the tubing that suffers.
> Do they make black dye? Only thing I know of like that is Mayhems X1 oil black, or pastel black but those aren't dyes.
> 
> Oil black is a red/black base, while pastel is a blue/black base. Neither of them just have "Black dye" in them, just a mix of colors that make it black.


As per everyone in the plasticizer thread, it's not plasticizer. So I'm not too worried.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd implore you to reconsider for your own sanity. Those plasticizers deposit themselves EVERYWHERE in your darn loop. I spent a good hour with a toothbrush and dishsoap cleanining everything on my last disassemble/clean. Even my pumps impeller had a nasty coating of that stuff. It's not just the tubing that suffers.
> Do they make black dye? Only thing I know of like that is Mayhems X1 oil black, or pastel black but those aren't dyes.
> 
> Oil black is a red/black base, while pastel is a blue/black base. Neither of them just have "Black dye" in them, just a mix of colors that make it black.
> 
> 
> 
> As per everyone in the plasticizer thread, it's not plasticizer. So I'm not too worried.
Click to expand...

Thanks M3TAI, Rep+
Revenge is sweet!


----------



## M3TAl

The coolant still looks white as day 1, reservoir and blocks seem fine. I've already drained and refilled 3 times. My CPU block is clear plexi so I can see there's nothing in it. Tubing turning green...

People in plasticizer thread said Durelene has problems where it will absorb oxidation or something like that from copper. Mine turned green in 1-2 weeks time. All my blocks are copper and 3 full copper rads.

Don't know if Pastel helped the Durelene in turning green since I only ran Pastel. Maybe just distilled with kill coil or something is fine? I got Durelene due to the price and a lot of recommendations as the go-to affordable tubing.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I really like that color. I was thinking of doing that myself. Then I went with purple!
> 
> But now, as I said, new month, new color!!
> 
> But first to clean out all that purple!
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty big run for the pond pump especially with some QDCs and that water filter involved, so I turned on the DDC pump as well..
> 
> Then, fill her up with some Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow!


That yellow looks good, you going to keep changing your color every month


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The coolant still looks white as day 1, reservoir and blocks seem fine. I've already drained and refilled 3 times. My CPU block is clear plexi so I can see there's nothing in it. Tubing turning green...
> 
> People in plasticizer thread said Durelene has problems where it will absorb oxidation or something like that from copper. Mine turned green in 1-2 weeks time. All my blocks are copper and 3 full copper rads.
> 
> Don't know if Pastel helped the Durelene in turning green since I only ran Pastel. Maybe just distilled with kill coil or something is fine? I got Durelene due to the price and a lot of recommendations as the go-to affordable tubing.


It may be affordable but that's because you need to change it every couple months.









Quality tubing may be more expensive, but it also lasts at least 10x longer and looks better.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Primochill Advanced LRT da best!


----------



## stickg1

Naw I'm not going to actually change every month, I was joking. I do like the yellow. I was against it at first. I got almost 2.5 liters of it for really cheap. I still have plenty left, my loop only takes 800ml-900ml of fluid.

Can't wait for my new rad to come though, it's going to be nice!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Naw I'm not going to actually change every month, I was joking. I do like the yellow. I was against it at first. I got almost 2.5 liters of it for really cheap. I still have plenty left, my loop only takes 800ml-900ml of fluid.
> 
> Can't wait for my new rad to come though, it's going to be nice!


The yellow looked good, but I liked the blue and purple a lot better. The contrast just made the whole thing pop


----------



## stickg1

The main thing I like about the pastel is the liquid in the reservoir is the same exact color as the liquid in the tubing.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> The main thing I like about the pastel is the liquid in the reservoir is the same exact color as the liquid in the tubing.


Yeah, that is the one of the great things bout having opaque liquids, lol

Still sayin from a color scheme perspective, I like the blue/purple better


----------



## stickg1

True. wermad sent me like 2.5 liters of this yellow already mixed along with some fittings for dirty cheap so I just had to check it out. I think I'm going to stick with it for now. Does anyone else think that pastel coolant fills easier? I don't seem to get nearly as many air bubbles in my loop when filling. I mean from the time I fill and am air pocket free it's like 15 minutes. It's amazing. I noticed that on my last loop with pastel white too.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> True. wermad sent me like 2.5 liters of this yellow already mixed along with some fittings for dirty cheap so I just had to check it out. I think I'm going to stick with it for now. Does anyone else think that pastel coolant fills easier? I don't seem to get nearly as many air bubbles in my loop when filling. I mean from the time I fill and am air pocket free it's like 15 minutes. It's amazing. I noticed that on my last loop with pastel white too.


Yeah, I've found it seems to get the air out quicker, not sure if it's the "viscosity" of it or what, but bleeding a loop sure does go quickly!!


----------



## stickg1

I did put a drop of purple in to tint it a little darker and match the paint btw.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> True. wermad sent me like 2.5 liters of this yellow already mixed along with some fittings for dirty cheap so I just had to check it out. I think I'm going to stick with it for now. Does anyone else think that pastel coolant fills easier? I don't seem to get nearly as many air bubbles in my loop when filling. I mean from the time I fill and am air pocket free it's like 15 minutes. It's amazing. I noticed that on my last loop with pastel white too.


Yes it is exceptional in the bleeding phase of filling the loop. I find the loop is completely bled in a quarter of the time or better. To me it looks like micro bubbles have a harder time forming and they quickly merge to large bubbles that can easily get pushed along to the res. probably some nano particle magic or something.......


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yes it is exceptional in the bleeding phase of filling the loop. I find the loop is completely bled in a quarter of the time or better. To me it looks like micro bubbles have a harder time forming and they quickly merge to large bubbles that can easily get pushed along to the res. probably some nano particle magic or something.......


Gas bubbles are prone to sticking to solids when in a liquid. Ever notice bubbles binding to your tubing when bleeding, even though there's 1GPM+ of flowrate going through the tubes? Given these facts my theory is it prevents the air bubbles from sticking around your loop, and when in the res the turbulent nature of solids in liquids make the air bubbles prone to floating up to the top.


----------



## mattxx88

hi guys this is my build with mahyems blood red (amazing colour gz)








wondering to change with pastel red, what do you think?


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattxx88*
> 
> hi guys this is my build with mahyems blood red (amazing colour gz)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wondering to change with pastel red, what do you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning:


personally I think the clear looks better than the pastel might. But it's hard to say without seeing it both ways


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattxx88*
> 
> hi guys this is my build with mahyems blood red (amazing colour gz)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wondering to change with pastel red, what do you think?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> personally I think the clear looks better than the pastel might. But it's hard to say without seeing it both ways


I second this^

Pastel is great but it makes the liquid loop stand out essentially making it the highlight of the rig. With your setup I think the transparent blood red gives it a subtle elegance that makes your rig blend together, pastel would jump out at you a bit more.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattxx88*
> 
> hi guys this is my build with mahyems blood red (amazing colour gz)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wondering to change with pastel red, what do you think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Rocking the RV01, nice!







I'd keep the blood red dye. Pastel red would not do your build justice.









Edit: Please fill our sig rig.


----------



## mattxx88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> personally I think the clear looks better than the pastel might. But it's hard to say without seeing it both ways


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I second this^
> 
> Pastel is great but it makes the liquid loop stand out essentially making it the highlight of the rig. With your setup I think the transparent blood red gives it a subtle elegance that makes your rig blend together, pastel would jump out at you a bit more.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Rocking the RV01, nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd keep the blood red dye. Pastel red would not do your build justice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Please fill our sig rig.


thanks lot guys, you are so kind







i will follow yours suggestions

now i have to find the best way to light the rig, it's not so easy make a nice light effect
Quote:


> Please fill our sig rig


??


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattxx88*
> 
> thanks lot guys, you are so kind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i will follow yours suggestions
> 
> *no i have to find the best ay to light the rig, it's not so easy make a nice light effect*
> 
> ??


*With no UV effects LEDs are probably the best route, you can light specific spots, and get some really cool effects with LEDs. UV light is a bit different, UV LEDs are 2%-8% power efficient for UV light, 72%-88% power efficient in purple light, and the rest is lost in thermals, at least that's what it is if I remember correctly. it might be a little different but UV LEDs emit VERY little actual UV light, mostly purple.

Seeing as how you aren't UV, that's all irrelevant but I thought I'd mention it incase you ever put UV FX in there.

If you don't want any special lighting effects, and just an ambient color cathodes are usually good.*

Signature rig, under your profile you can fill out a chart with all your components, cooling equipment, etc. It then appears under every post you make with a little drop down chart with all the components you've selected. It just makes suggesting things, and helping with your rig a bit easier in the forums. Also allows admirers to know exactly what's in your rig.


----------



## mattxx88

yes i got after i posted, what you mean







i'll to complete my profile when i finish the rig with the new fans and sleeved cables

wow nice explanation









i won't use UV lights, i am looking for something to higlight the blood red and make something minimal cool


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattxx88*
> 
> yes i got after i posted, what you mean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'll to complete my profile when i finish the rig with the new fans and sleeved cables
> 
> wow nice explanation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i won't use UV lights, i am looking for something to higlight the blood red and make something minimal cool


LED caps with with 3way fittings would be cool since you're already using mostly 90degree fittings, but it might be kind of pricey.

Something like this:


And something like this:


Then, instead of 90 degree fttings, use the 3 way fitting with an LED plug on the opposite side of the fitting. It would actually illuminate the coolant form the inside. A white LED might actually work better for that come to think of it.

But that's just my







on how to illuminate the coolant.


----------



## mattxx88

i've got that led plug on my ek reseivoir, but the coolant is not lighted, mybe it's cause the reseirvoir is not full filled? maybe the coolant have to be in contact with the led to works better


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattxx88*
> 
> i've got that led plug on my ek reseivoir, but the coolant is not lighted, mybe it's cause the reseirvoir is not full filled? maybe the coolant have to be in contact with the led to works better


Try it with a white LED. I have a feeling since it's a red coolant a red LED wouldn't illuminate it much. Also, just make sure the coolant level is above the LED in the res, you might notice more illumination if the LED is shining into the coolant instead of shining into air, onto the coolant.


----------



## mattxx88

Yes i thought the same, the liquid need to tuch the led (btw, mine led is not red but white, only it's not a clear white and i dunno why, it's a white near azure)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattxx88*
> 
> Yes i thought the same, the liquid need to tuch the led (btw, mine led is not red but white, only it's not a clear white and i dunno why, it's a white near azure)


White LEDs will usually have a bluish white, more noticeable as LED power increases, look at something like LED headlights for cars.

Anyways I'd try it on a plug that's under the water level. The light right now is traveling through the air, and I'm assuming most of it is probably being reflected off the waters surface. Having it below the water line might make more of it penetrate, illuminating it from the inside rather than having it reflect off of it.


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattxx88*
> 
> thanks lot guys, you are so kind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i will follow yours suggestions
> 
> now i have to find the best way to light the rig, it's not so easy make a nice light effect
> ??


Having a rig in your signature can help with members giving advice and trouble shooting. Saves on time to get answers regarding your rig via posting.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig/0_40


----------



## mattxx88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*
> 
> Having a rig in your signature can help with members giving advice and trouble shooting. Saves on time to get answers regarding your rig via posting.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig/0_40


thanks







asap i'll work on mine


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattxx88*
> 
> hi guys this is my build with mahyems blood red (amazing colour gz)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wondering to change with pastel red, what do you think?


Nice build, nothing wrong with the way you did things though I have 1 suggestion, instead of using those female to female couplers and running the acrylic through the grommets, you should have just bought 2 bulkheads and attached them to the pre-cut gromet holes and used that as your coupler.


----------



## iamkraine

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> LED caps with with 3way fittings would be cool since you're already using mostly 90degree fittings, but it might be kind of pricey.
> 
> Something like this:
> 
> 
> And something like this:
> 
> 
> Then, instead of 90 degree fttings, use the 3 way fitting with an LED plug on the opposite side of the fitting. It would actually illuminate the coolant form the inside. A white LED might actually work better for that come to think of it.
> 
> But that's just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on how to illuminate the coolant.






This is a white LED cap creating a halo effect through Pastel Ice White coolant.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattxx88*
> 
> thanks lot guys, you are so kind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i will follow yours suggestions
> 
> now i have to find the best way to light the rig, it's not so easy make a nice light effect
> ??


I would try White NZXT Sleeve LED's.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> 
> This is a white LED cap creating a halo effect through Pastel Ice White coolant.


Dang, imagine that with XSPC Photon.


----------



## natsu2014

Standard LED + pastel red = no effect. This looks allright but only on small area


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Standard LED + pastel red = no effect. This looks allright but only on small area


It ain't pastel we're talking about though, it's X1 Blood Red. iamkraine just posted that to give an example of LEDs into a coolant res.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I would try White NZXT Sleeve LED's.


My NZXT LEDs aren't very good. They dimmed like crazy, hardly put out any light now. Yes they're on the brightest setting.


----------



## mattxx88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Nice build, nothing wrong with the way you did things though I have 1 suggestion, instead of using those female to female couplers and running the acrylic through the grommets, you should have just bought 2 bulkheads and attached them to the pre-cut gromet holes and used that as your coupler.


don't worry any suggestion is well accepted
problem was that ek acrylic tubin are too short, i should've bought primochill ones that are longer, that's way those male-female
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> 
> This is a white LED cap creating a halo effect through Pastel Ice White coolant.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i have the same led and same reservoir, got to try to fill till the led with coolant
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I would try White NZXT Sleeve LED's.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


wow rly nice build
nice position for radiator


----------



## andyv

Looking into new motherboards. Have my eye on this one, however I can't seem to think there would be a colour of coolant that would match the colours without looking awful. (Easy enough for sleeving etc)
Its the Asus z87 Gryphon


Spoiler: Motherboard







The other option is to get the armour however it seems pointless at the price.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> Looking into new motherboards. Have my eye on this one, however I can't seem to think there would be a colour of coolant that would match the colours without looking awful. (Easy enough for sleeving etc)
> Its the Asus z87 Gryphon
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other option is to get the armour however it seems pointless at the price.


Mayhems Aurora Black/gold pearls would look wicked!


----------



## andyv

Thanks for that, Actually would look pretty decent.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> Thanks for that, Actually would look pretty decent.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> Thanks for that, Actually would look pretty decent.
Click to expand...

I like that color it looks nice I wonder if they could do black and white


----------



## ZytheEKS

Ummm. While I was looking for that video I came across this




Mick... What exactly am I looking at? I don't know what it is but I want it....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*


Hey @ZytheEKS, u have any thoughts/ideas/insider info on when we might see the release of Aurora2?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Ummm. While I was looking for that video I came across this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mick... What exactly am I looking at? I don't know what it is but I want it....


Two things came to mind...

1) pew pew
2) lava lamp

Looks freaking awesome
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hey @ZytheEKS, u have any thoughts/ideas/insider info on when we might see the release of Aurora2?


It is already 'out' but will be slipstreamed in. So we wait until the sites restock before we get it is what it sounded like


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Hey @ZytheEKS, u have any thoughts/ideas/insider info on when we might see the release of Aurora2?


Pretty much this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It is already 'out' but will be slipstreamed in. So we wait until the sites restock before we get it is what it sounded like


So it depends on how many people buy old aurora. My guess would be a few months before PPCs and FCPU sell their old stock and restock with Aurora II


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Pretty much this:
> So it depends on how many people buy old aurora. My guess would be a few months before PPCs and FCPU sell their old stock and restock with Aurora II


If we buy straight from mayhems, can we specify that we want the A2 vs just aurora??


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If we buy straight from mayhems, can we specify that we want the A2 vs just aurora??


Email their shop and ask. Personally I'm not going to pay for international shipping for a 250ml bottle, as Mayhems is based in the U.K. but if you want then I guess w/e, but I'd contact them first to be sure you're getting A2 not just Aurora because it would suck to get Aurora old when you just payed for international shipping.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> So it depends on how many people buy old aurora. My guess would be a few months before PPCs and FCPU sell their old stock and restock with Aurora II


To help aid the cause and not have to wait for it to become readily available, I just bought the old stuff and will use that for several months. When it is time to swap it out, I am hoping that Aurora2 will be the stuff available and will get that for replacement


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> To help aid the cause and not have to wait for it to become readily available, I just bought the old stuff and will use that for several months. When it is time to swap it out, I am hoping that Aurora2 will be the stuff available and will get that for replacement


I'm going to start Doge Coin mining on my new R9 290x, and when that pays itself off I think I'm going to grab another one and Crossfire em in a second loop with the MoRa rad with Aurora. Since the MoRa is just a single copper tube rewound on itself I think it should be fine with aurora, but we'll see. I'll be the guinea pig I guess. XD

It's not listed on the Aurora Wiki either way so it's purely speculation based off of known characteristics, but either way I'm hoping A2 will be available in a few months when my R9 pays itself off.

We'll see.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> is there any flow meters work well with pastel or coolant?


Thanks[/quote]

I went with the Bitspower expecting only an RPM output which I would then convert to flow manually. Unfortunately ......

1. They meters come with two inserts and no information on which ones to use in which situations.

2. I have had no response as to what rpm equates to what flow rate

3. The Six Eyes unit I am using to display rpm has a "alarm setting" that is too high for the unit's rpm range and emits an ear piercing alarm. So it was either disconnect the rpm feed from the meters or turn off the alarm function completely which I didn't want to do just yet.

Bitspower has been unresponsive to inquiries regarding the above.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> I went with the Bitspower expecting only an RPM output which I would then convert to flow manually. Unfortunately ......
> 
> 1. They meters come with two inserts and no information on which ones to use in which situations.
> 
> 2. I have had no response as to what rpm equates to what flow rate
> 
> 3. The Six Eyes unit I am using to display rpm has a "alarm setting" that is too high for the unit's rpm range and emits an ear piercing alarm. So it was either disconnect the rpm feed from the meters or turn off the alarm function completely which I didn't want to do just yet.
> 
> Bitspower has been unresponsive to inquiries regarding the above.


Mayhems recommends the inline flow meters by Koolance, those being this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13279/koo-292/Koolance_INS-FM18_Coolant_Flow_Meter_.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17578/koo-322/Koolance_Flow_Meter_Adapter_With_Display_DCB-FM01.html

I've not used them personally though.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Mayhems recommends the inline flow meters by Koolance, those being this:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13279/koo-292/Koolance_INS-FM18_Coolant_Flow_Meter_.html
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17578/koo-322/Koolance_Flow_Meter_Adapter_With_Display_DCB-FM01.html
> 
> I've not used them personally though.


I have the FM18+FM01. it works fine with my Pastel.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Ummm. While I was looking for that video I came across this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mick... What exactly am I looking at? I don't know what it is but I want it....


That was just me messing around with some liquid cooling ideas ...Ive actually done a better version of that id like to add to a pc when i get some time spare.

As for New improved Aurora its already been shipped out to several companies all though i cannot tell you which as i have no control or knowledge who has it or who doesn't. Our warehouse / sales hold all the stock i just make it and ship it down to them for them to distribute.. Sorry guys / girls.

What i can reveal is that you know when you have Aurora "new and improved" as on the label as shown below


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I have the FM18+FM01. it works fine with my Pastel.


I have this meter:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8294/koo-158/Koolance_INS-FM17N_Coolant_Flow_Meter.html?tl=g30c101s457

will it works with pastel/ coolant?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> That was just me messing around with some liquid cooling ideas ...Ive actually done a better version of that id like to add to a pc when i get some time spare.
> 
> As for New improved Aurora its already been shipped out to several companies all though i cannot tell you which as i have no control or knowledge who has it or who doesn't. Our warehouse / sales hold all the stock i just make it and ship it down to them for them to distribute.. Sorry guys / girls.
> 
> What i can reveal is that you know when you have Aurora "new and improved" as on the label as shown below


Well that's exciting!!







I'll just have to order 1 from every vendor I know till I hit the jackpot!!









Seriously though, so what can you
tell us the difference between the new and old aurora, does it have all the same colours?
Can it be used as a long term coolant ?
If so how long with a standard dcc with single gpu and cpu?
are their any test result we can see compared to the original?
What does the original label say if we have never seen the original to compare?

And I want the gold & black aurora


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Well that's exciting!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just have to order 1 from every vendor I know till I hit the jackpot!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously though, so what can you
> tell us the difference between the new and old aurora, does it have all the same colours?
> Can it be used as a long term coolant ?
> If so how long with a standard dcc with single gpu and cpu?
> are their any test result we can see compared to the original?
> What does the original label say if we have never seen the original to compare?
> 
> And I want the gold & black aurora


Well I've never seen the original, but I'll tell you right now the main difference is the fact it says "Aurora +", the biggest difference I know is a 33.3% size reduction. Old particles were 60nm, new particles are 40nm if I remember correctly.

Maybe Mayhems could say more, but those are what I've read across the interwebz.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well I've never seen the original, but I'll tell you right now the main difference is the fact it says "Aurora +", the biggest difference I know is a 33.3% size reduction. Old particles were 60nm, new particles are 40nm if I remember correctly.
> 
> Maybe Mayhems could say more, but those are what I've read across the interwebz.


Hmmm can't wait to see that wonder how that changes the look


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Hmmm can't wait to see that wonder how that changes the look


It shouldn't change the look much, maybe smaller swirls but I'm doubtful. That black/gold aurora vid I linked was Aurora+, and it didn't seem to have much smaller swirls.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have this meter:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8294/koo-158/Koolance_INS-FM17N_Coolant_Flow_Meter.html?tl=g30c101s457
> 
> will it works with pastel/ coolant?


That is actually the one I have, I mistyped earlier. It works fine


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That is actually the one I have, I mistyped earlier. It works fine


Pretty sure the only difference is the housing, isn't it? They're both inline flow meters right? The Koolance meter even has both the 17 and 18 as the same setting on their flow meter display.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Pretty sure the only difference is the housing, isn't it? They're both inline flow meters right? The Koolance meter even has both the 17 and 18 as the same setting on their flow meter display.


yeah I think it is just the housing... clear or not clear lol


----------



## skupples

XT-1 Vs. Liquid Utopia... Thoughts? I hear allot of people bash on glycol based coolants but i'm growing unsatisfied with the way water+utopia works.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> XT-1 Vs. Liquid Utopia... Thoughts? I hear allot of people bash on glycol based coolants but i'm growing unsatisfied with the way water+utopia works.


What's in the loop? Unless aluminum is in there I'd use X1, glycol adds an unnecessary performance drops.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> What's in the loop? Unless aluminum is in there I'd use X1, glycol adds an unnecessary performance drops.


it's all copper/brass/pom/acrylic. My main issue is basic distilled water's (for lack of a better term @ 2AM) is the surface tension. Tiny bubbles stuck in my res bother the hell out of me. Makes me think the same thing is happening inside rads/tubes/blocks.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> it's all copper/brass/pom/acrylic. My main issue is how basic distilled water (for lack of a better term @ 2AM) is the surface tension. Tiny bubbles stuck in my res bother the hell out of me. Makes me think the same thing is happening inside rads/tubes/blocks.


Then you just need a surfactant. X1, pastel, and XT-1 all have surfactants, so any of them will work. X1 performs nearly identically to distilled water, XT-1 is EG based so it will inherently have a notable performance drop so it's best to use X1 instead unless you either have aluminum or need frost protection.

A surfactant will help microbubbles work their way out of the loop, but in the end you'll still need to bleed the loop properly.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> it's all copper/brass/pom/acrylic. My main issue is basic distilled water's (for lack of a better term @ 2AM) is the surface tension. Tiny bubbles stuck in my res bother the hell out of me. Makes me think the same thing is happening inside rads/tubes/blocks.


The only reason bubbles stay so long in the reservoirs is there isn't a high "flow speed" through it. Unlike the rest of the loop that has smaller diameter/channels that increase fluid speed through them.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The only reason bubbles stay so long in the reservoirs is there isn't a high "flow speed" through it. Unlike the rest of the loop that has smaller diameter/channels that increase fluid speed through them.


figured as much, but it still bugs the hell out of me. I use to use a tiny amount of water wetter in my original loop, but it eventually dries & cracks acrylic.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> it's all copper/brass/pom/acrylic. My main issue is basic distilled water's (for lack of a better term @ 2AM) is the surface tension. Tiny bubbles stuck in my res bother the hell out of me. Makes me think the same thing is happening inside rads/tubes/blocks.


I wouldn't use glycol unless I was doing aluminum or sub ambient cooling. However, XT-1 it is a solid product and if you are ok with glycol based fluids then it is great

Pastel is really really good about getting rid of the bubbles. In fact bleeding the whole takes like 1/4 the time or less.

X1 is a really good fluid as well and I don't think it gets the bubbles in the res as much as pain distilled


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Mayhems recommends the inline flow meters by Koolance, those being this:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13279/koo-292/Koolance_INS-FM18_Coolant_Flow_Meter_.html
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17578/koo-322/Koolance_Flow_Meter_Adapter_With_Display_DCB-FM01.html
> 
> I've not used them personally though.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the FM18+FM01. it works fine with my Pastel.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> I have this meter:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8294/koo-158/Koolance_INS-FM17N_Coolant_Flow_Meter.html?tl=g30c101s457
> 
> will it works with pastel/ coolant?
> 
> 
> 
> That is actually the one I have, I mistyped earlier. It works fine
Click to expand...

cyphon, the only flow meter that I can easily get locally is Koolance INS-FM18D (with display). Since I'm using 7/16 ID tube, can I disconnect the cable to the display & connect it to my fan controller (to get the RPM reading)?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> cyphon, the only flow meter that I can easily get locally is Koolance INS-FM18D (with display). Since I'm using 7/16 ID tube, can I disconnect the cable to the display & connect it to my fan controller (to get the RPM reading)?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I am pretty sure the flow meter outputs pulses similar to a fan and the display does the counting to get RPM and the simple conversion s(based on tube diameter, which is why the switch is on there) to get lpm or gpm.

So, yeah, I am pretty sure you are good with going to a fan controller if you do not mind reading RPM


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I am pretty sure the flow meter outputs pulses similar to a fan and the display does the counting to get RPM and the simple conversion s(based on tube diameter, which is why the switch is on there) to get lpm or gpm.
> 
> So, yeah, I am pretty sure you are good with going to a fan controller if you do not mind reading RPM


Thanks. rep+


----------



## Buzz247

Vacillating between Mayhem X1 concentrate and Liquid Utopia - so figured I'd ask here. Mayhem is considerably more expensive for me due to the size of my loop (estimated 1.5-2g capacity see build log to understand why lol) and it being more money, and less total mixed amount output. So trying to justify additional cost of using mayhems. Thoughts?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Vacillating between Mayhem X1 concentrate and Liquid Utopia - so figured I'd ask here. Mayhem is considerably more expensive for me due to the size of my loop (estimated 1.5-2g capacity see build log to understand why lol) and it being more money, and less total mixed amount output. So trying to justify additional cost of using mayhems. Thoughts?


Well, I personally feel the price of the fluid, especially the X-1 to be quite fair, x-1 makes up two liters of coolant when you buy the concentrate, and in my system, that means I needed 4 bottles of concentrate, as my system takes just under 7 liters total. I have seen (especially recently) people complaining about the Liquid Utopia, I've personally never used it, and honestly won't, I feel that the piece of mind in knowing that the mayhems coolants have biocides and corrosion inhibitors built in, and don't require any maintenance aside from yearly checkups (which should be done regardless of the fluid used) was worth the added cost. I've not seen any negative issues with it cooling wise vs using straight distilled either.
Just my


----------



## ACallander

Would mayhems pastel work with my monsoon series two pump/res combo?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> Would mayhems pastel work with my monsoon series two pump/res combo?


Yes, it will work just fine in that res, but since pastel is an opaque fluid, your LEDs probably won't be visible though.


----------



## skupples

utopia claims to be biocide & corrosion inhibitor, they just don't have surfactant.

I'll probably switch to x1, wish they had clear one though. flushing my loop will be the biggest PITA. She holds just under a gallon.


----------



## VSG

Ya, I wanted a clear, reasonably expensive coolant as well so I am still going with Liquid Utopia for now.


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'll probably switch to x1, wish they had clear one though. flushing my loop will be the biggest PITA. She holds just under a gallon.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=35744

There it is - clear X-1


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=35744
> 
> There it is - clear X-1


that's XT-1, which is glycol based.


----------



## VSG

That's XT-1, this is the "clear" version of the X-1: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=34058


----------



## skupples

ohh nice, browsed over that, probably because of the white logo.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's X-1, this is the "clear" version of the X-1: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=34058


glad you found it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> ohh nice, browsed over that, probably because of the white logo.


hard to logo 'clear', lol
even if they did full transparent on it, it is on a white page and would still be white


----------



## Buzz247

how the heck did I grab the XT link lmao - meant to grab the x-1


----------



## skupples




----------



## rickyman0319

how do I convert rpm to lpm on koolance meter ? I plug the koolance meter to fan controller. it read like 300-360 rpm. what does that mean?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> how do I convert rpm to lpm on koolance meter ? I plug the koolance meter to fan controller. it read like 300-360 rpm. what does that mean?


And that is WHY THEY SELL the converter module!!!!!!!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> how do I convert rpm to lpm on koolance meter ? I plug the koolance meter to fan controller. it read like 300-360 rpm. what does that mean?


use this graph:



so, if you have a 10/13mm inner diameter, then you would use a conversion of 0.307. You would convert RPM to Hz (divide by 60) and then multiply by the conversion factor.

Here is an example:

Code:



Code:


RPM = 300
freq_hz = RPM / 60 = 300 / 60 = 5
conversion_factor = 0.307

lpm = freq_hz * conversion_factor = 5 * 0.307 = 1.535
gpm = lpm * 0.264172 = 1.535 * 0.264172 = ~0.41

So your flow is pretty bad to be honest. I rounded down on the low number a little and up on the high number a little bit to account for error in the sensor, so with that your flow is likely between 0.4 gpm and 0.5 gpm. Ideally you want above 0.7 gpm for your loop. If I remember correctly, you are using one of those pump/res bay combos, which do typically have pretty weak pumps in them, so that is not a surprise. Swapping that pump for a DDC or a D5 would probably easily at least double your flow rate.

My loop, I have the sensor in is at 12-13Hz (720 RPM) which is right around 1gpm.


----------



## rickyman0319

are you talking about this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8294/koo-158/Koolance_INS-FM17N_Coolant_Flow_Meter.html?tl=g30c101s457?



how can I fix it?

I also set the speed to 3 right now. shall I set it to max ( speed 5)?

I change my resevior/pump to monsoon dual bay series 2 reservoir with D5 pump right now.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> are you talking about this:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8294/koo-158/Koolance_INS-FM17N_Coolant_Flow_Meter.html?tl=g30c101s457?
> 
> 
> 
> how can I fix it?
> 
> I also set the speed to 3 right now. shall I set it to max ( speed 5)?


No, I'm talking about this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17578/koo-322/Koolance_Flow_Meter_Adapter_With_Display_DCB-FM01.html?tl=g30c101s457


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> it's all copper/brass/pom/acrylic. My main issue is basic distilled water's (for lack of a better term @ 2AM) is the surface tension. Tiny bubbles stuck in my res bother the hell out of me. Makes me think the same thing is happening inside rads/tubes/blocks.


Pastel certainly eliminates that ....


----------



## 15goudreau

Hey guys, I'm pretty sure I already know the answer to this but...

Is there any way to remove or prevent the water from evaporating and condensating on my tube res where water doesn't fill (on the inside)?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm pretty sure I already know the answer to this but...
> 
> Is there any way to remove or prevent the water from evaporating and condensating on my tube res where water doesn't fill (on the inside)?


Fill it up to the top?


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Fill it up to the top?


Well besides that







. The reason why I got the specific top and stuff was so I could see the tube inside. But it's cloudy with condensation!


----------



## Anoxy

Which res are you rocking, the Aqualis?


----------



## stickg1

Pastel is sweet. I turned my yellow to neon green from playing with it too much. Man that purple dye is potent stuff! Good thing I have plenty more yellow pastel!


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Which res are you rocking, the Aqualis?


EK X3 Here's a pic



Edit: It's worse now. After the pastel actually touched it that started happening.....Maybe I just need to clean the inside a little bit? Maybe it's condensing on some residue or something

double edit: here's a recent picture


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickyman0319*
> 
> are you talking about this:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8294/koo-158/Koolance_INS-FM17N_Coolant_Flow_Meter.html?tl=g30c101s457?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how can I fix it?
> 
> I also set the speed to 3 right now. shall I set it to max ( speed 5)?
> 
> I change my resevior/pump to monsoon dual bay series 2 reservoir with D5 pump right now.


Yeah. crank the speed up to 4 and see how it is. If you still need some more, then crank to 5.

Also, going to go ahead and kill this conversation as it is not Mayhems related anymore and more about the flow meter and your loop performance. Please open a new thread if you need some more help. You can PM as well


----------



## Mayhem

Main Difference between new and old Aurora are.

1) Smaller size in particle
2) Wider spread in particle size
3) Different chemicals used in its production
4) More viscus

There are quite a few other differences especially in the manufacturing of the product how ever that for us to know and everyone else to copy







.:


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

is aurora 2 friendly to complicated loops?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Main Difference between new and old Aurora are.
> 
> 1) Smaller size in particle
> 2) Wider spread in particle size
> 3) Different chemicals used in its production
> 4) More viscus
> 
> There are quite a few other differences especially in the manufacturing of the product how ever that for us to know and everyone else to copy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .:


The biggest question is does it still clog up and render the Koolance flow meters useless . . . they won't even turn at all after a while, and read progressively lower as they get increasingly gummed up?

Not ready to find that out the hard / expensive way again.

Darlene


----------



## ACallander

Will aurora 2 allow for extended use like pastels?


----------



## grifftech

I have a silver plug in my loop and am running just distilled water right now. Will the silver plug be enough to inhibit growth if I add in Mayhems Orange Dye, or should I add an inhibitor?


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> I have a silver plug in my loop and am running just distilled water right now. Will the silver plug be enough to inhibit growth if I add in Mayhems Orange Dye, or should I add an inhibitor?


I believe the dye comes with an inhibitor so you wouldn't need the plug at all. I might be wrong with that though...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> I have a silver plug in my loop and am running just distilled water right now. Will the silver plug be enough to inhibit growth if I add in Mayhems Orange Dye, or should I add an inhibitor?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I believe the dye comes with an inhibitor so you wouldn't need the plug at all. I might be wrong with that though...


The dye is just dye, no inhibitors. Pastel, X1, XT-1, and Aurora all have inhibitors, however.

If your system is fine with a silver plug without the dye, then it is fine with the dye. It is quite literally just a dye....just makes things change colors


----------



## stickg1

I drink X1 so my madd skillz don't get rusty..


----------



## Mayhem

IT Diva i run a Koolance flow meter and all so 2 aqua computer ones with no issue.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> IT Diva i run a Koolance flow meter and all so 2 aqua computer ones with no issue.


Thanks Mick,

As soon as the Aurora2 is being shipped from PPCs or FCPU, I'll get some and put it in the dual D5 test setup that's exactly like the setups in the stretch build and test run it for a while.

I'm not putting anything in that build that I haven't test run first.

Can you imagine the work and incredible PITA to replace those 3 flow meters in the res/pump modules!

Once while they were in testing before being installed was enough!

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> I have a silver plug in my loop and am running just distilled water right now. Will the silver plug be enough to inhibit growth if I add in Mayhems Orange Dye, or should I add an inhibitor?


you should really look into an anti-corrosion inhibitor if you are going to use just the dye.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks Mick,
> 
> As soon as the Aurora2 is being shipped from PPCs or FCPU, I'll get some and put it in the dual D5 test setup that's exactly like the setups in the stretch build and test run it for a while.
> 
> I'm not putting anything in that build that I haven't test run first.
> 
> Can you imagine the work and incredible PITA to replace those 3 flow meters in the res/pump modules!
> 
> Once while they were in testing before being installed was enough!
> 
> Darlene


I love this build so different , build log please


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks Mick,
> 
> As soon as the Aurora2 is being shipped from PPCs or FCPU, I'll get some and put it in the dual D5 test setup that's exactly like the setups in the stretch build and test run it for a while.
> 
> I'm not putting anything in that build that I haven't test run first.
> 
> Can you imagine the work and incredible PITA to replace those 3 flow meters in the res/pump modules!
> 
> Once while they were in testing before being installed was enough!
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love this build so different , build log please
Click to expand...

Top link in my sig

D.


----------



## AndresR

Guys, I need a little help with Mayhem pastel black.

My loop look's a like very very dark greenish/blueish. Probably I didn't make a good mix. What I could do to fix it? add more water or more pastel black? I still have a brand new bottle of concretrate left.
Also I don't know if the bad black effect is due the led lighning? When I mixed it on glass bottle in my garden it looked very black, but now that it's running it's not.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> Guys, I need a little help with Mayhem pastel black.
> 
> My loop look's a like very very dark greenish/blueish. Probably I didn't make a good mix. What I could do to fix it? add more water or more pastel black? I still have a brand new bottle of concretrate left.
> Also I don't know if the bad black effect is due the led lighning? When I mixed it on glass bottle in my garden it looked very black, but now that it's running it's not.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The proper mix is one bottle pastel concentrate(250ml) to two bottles (500ml) of DI or DS water, makes 750ml total.

If you aren't full black, it would be that too much water thinned it out, so add more concentrate.

It could be the lighting also, if it looks good and black in the rest of the loop but is being washed out by the lights, then, it's the lights.

If it turns kind of a dark chocolate color, you didn't clean your loop out and the Ph has caused it to react and change color......

The black pastel has had issues with ph sensitivity in the past for some folks.

I would try to slowly add some more concentrate to see if it has a effect on the color, and if not, turn off the lights


----------



## grifftech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> you should really look into an anti-corrosion inhibitor if you are going to use just the dye.


Can you recommend one?


----------



## AndresR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The proper mix is one bottle pastel concentrate(250ml) to two bottles (500ml) of DI or DS water, makes 750ml total.
> 
> If you aren't full black, it would be that too much water thinned it out, so add more concentrate.
> 
> It could be the lighting also, if it looks good and black in the rest of the loop but is being washed out by the lights, then, it's the lights.
> 
> If it turns kind of a dark chocolate color, you didn't clean your loop out and the Ph has caused it to react and change color......
> 
> The black pastel has had issues with ph sensitivity in the past for some folks.
> 
> I would try to slowly add some more concentrate to see if it has a effect on the color, and if not, turn off the lights


Look's like added too much water, 750ml DS water + 250ml pastel.
Thanks a lot for your help!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> Look's like added too much water, 750ml DS water + 250ml pastel.
> Thanks a lot for your help!


If that is the case, this is my recommendation:
Drain your system and add half the extra bottle of concentrate to the coolant you drained, mix it really well, then put back into your loop what you need. And store the rest.


----------



## stickg1

I think 250ml of pastel is supposed to make 1 liter of coolant. Unless the black is different.

As it's already been said, black is really sensitive to pH. Although instead of blue green people with the troubles usually report it turning brown.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think 250ml of pastel is supposed to make 1 liter of coolant. Unless the black is different.
> 
> As it's already been said, black is really sensitive to pH. Although instead of blue green people with the troubles usually report it turning brown.


Ah damn, your right, I was thinking Aurora, as I just mixed a batch.

Sorry @AndresR your mix is correct!!!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> Guys, I need a little help with Mayhem pastel black.
> 
> My loop look's a like very very dark greenish/blueish. Probably I didn't make a good mix. What I could do to fix it? add more water or more pastel black? I still have a brand new bottle of concretrate left.
> Also I don't know if the bad black effect is due the led lighning? When I mixed it on glass bottle in my garden it looked very black, but now that it's running it's not.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Uhhhh build log?!?!?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> Guys, I need a little help with Mayhem pastel black.
> 
> My loop look's a like very very dark greenish/blueish. Probably I didn't make a good mix. What I could do to fix it? add more water or more pastel black? I still have a brand new bottle of concretrate left.
> Also I don't know if the bad black effect is due the led lighning? When I mixed it on glass bottle in my garden it looked very black, but now that it's running it's not.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Pastel black is very pH sensitive and can change color if your loops pH is off. Did you flush your rads before filling the loop? Specifically, give it a good flush with a bicarbonate solution?

Pastel black is actually being reworked right now, as I understand it, to be less sensitive to pH changes


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grifftech*
> 
> Can you recommend one?


take out the kill coil & either get some X-1 from this company (not XT-1) or Liquid Utopia.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Pastel black is very pH sensitive and can change color if your loops pH is off. Did you flush your rads before filling the loop? Specifically, give it a good flush with a *bicarbonate solution?*
> 
> Pastel black is actually being reworked right now, as I understand it, to be less sensitive to pH changes


as in arm & hammer?


----------



## AndresR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Ah damn, your right, I was thinking Aurora, I just mixed a batch.
> 
> Sorry @AndresR your mix is correct!!!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Uhhhh build log?!?!?


Saddly no, I had to build it in less than one week this time. But I'll post more pictures tomorrow








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Pastel black is very pH sensitive and can change color if your loops pH is off. Did you flush your rads before filling the loop? Specifically, give it a good flush with a bicarbonate solution?
> 
> Pastel black is actually being reworked right now, as I understand it, to be less sensitive to pH changes


Yes, but I only flushed it with hot DS water. Didn't know about the bicarbonate solution









Well, probably the best thing to do right now is wait for the new version.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> IT Diva i run a Koolance flow meter and all so 2 aqua computer ones with no issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Mick,
> 
> As soon as the Aurora2 is being shipped from PPCs or FCPU, I'll get some and put it in the dual D5 test setup that's exactly like the setups in the stretch build and test run it for a while.
> 
> I'm not putting anything in that build that I haven't test run first.
> 
> Can you imagine the work and incredible PITA to replace those 3 flow meters in the res/pump modules!
> 
> Once while they were in testing before being installed was enough!
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Ah that insane build id aviod a2 on that as well mate wait a few months and ill send you some thing to try out







.

@AndresR Send me you full name, address and telephone number and ill send you out some yellow this may fix you problem. If it doesnt ill re work some thing for you.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ah that insane build id aviod a2 on that as well mate wait a few months and ill send you some thing to try out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> @AndresR Send me you full name, address and telephone number and ill send you out some yellow this may fix you problem. If it doesnt ill re work some thing for you.


And this is why I love your folks products, and use them solely in my builds!! Your customer support and service is second to none!

I greatly appreciate your involvement in this community, thank you!


----------



## stickg1

Sometimes I wish my stuff would mess up just so I could feel what it's like to receive excellent customer service. But none of my Mayhems products have ever malfunctioned or caused problems. I got a whole cupboard full.


----------



## Jimhans1

@Mayhem On a side note, I'm building a system right now in a CL S3 Merlin, I'm using two HL GTS 240's, a BP 150 D5 pump top/res, an EK Max 6 Impact block and an EK GtX580 EN Plexi block. The system is using 1/2" Hardline tubing and compression fittings, all bends in the acrylic with zero fittings for the angles.
I was wondering if you think that is too complicated a loop for your Aurora in the red color? I already have both X-1 and Pastel here in the red, but I's like to do this system in Aurora if you think it will work well. Your thoughts?

Edit: I should add that this is to be used for about 2 months as the machine goes to some different events locally for demonstration purposes.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> @Mayhem On a side note, I'm building a system right now in a CL S3 Merlin, I'm using two HL GTS 240's, a BP 150 D5 pump top/res, an EK Max 6 Impact block and an EK GtX580 EN Plexi block. The system is using 1/2" Hardline tubing and compression fittings, all bends in the acrylic with zero fittings for the angles.
> I was wondering if you think that is too complicated a loop for your Aurora in the red color? I already have both X-1 and Pastel here in the red, but I's like to do this system in Aurora if you think it will work well. Your thoughts?
> 
> Edit: I should add that this is to be used for about 2 months as the machine goes to some different events locally for demonstration purposes.


Even though New and Improved Aurora is generally a much better product id still stick the the rules of keeping it simple and don't use bay reservoirs. Its also been noted from "Namron" that Aquacomputer level sensors don't work well with Aurora as well because of the way they work so its best to avoid the use of them with Aurora. I would suggest when using aurora its always better to actually start from the ground up and built you system around aurora not the other way around.

Im still working on Aurora to even better improve the way it works how ever it all takes time and testing takes along time. We've increased our test computers from having 2 to over 8 now all with different set ups so that we can try our best to include most common things people use, how ever there is always going to be something we don't have or have not tried. We will never test reservoirs that contain a cheap pumps inside as they are plain and simple rubbish and we wont test cheap "all in one systems". Weve even got a system with full copper rad and no res and direct to a XSPC block.





As you can see testing is a on going thing we just wish we could make it quicker.


----------



## nathanblandford

finished my loop running X1 blood red and 25 drops (around) of the blood red dye to darken it a bit but still make it tansparent










Spoiler: full shot









Spoiler: Res with led's



[





Spoiler: loop with flash

















Spoiler: res with flash









Spoiler: cpu block and tubing


----------



## Daggi

I really like the Pastel Sunset Yellow


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Ok....sorry for the late responses but haven't had toime to catch up on the e-mail notifications.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yeah, I've found it seems to get the air out quicker, not sure if it's the "viscosity" of it or what, but bleeding a loop sure does go quickly!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yes it is exceptional in the bleeding phase of filling the loop. I find the loop is completely bled in a quarter of the time or better. To me it looks like micro bubbles have a harder time forming and they quickly merge to large bubbles that can easily get pushed along to the res. probably some nano particle magic or something.......


Yeah, I dunno what it is but there's some sort of surfactant in there. Tho when I had distilled and no fill tube, I had a nice bubble effect from the drop into the res .... was visually pleasing and didn't extend more than half way down res..... but that's the only thing I miss from DW .... multi-port top with fill tube is so much easier in all other respects.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Mayhems recommends the inline flow meters by Koolance, those being this:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13279/koo-292/Koolance_INS-FM18_Coolant_Flow_Meter_.html
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17578/koo-322/Koolance_Flow_Meter_Adapter_With_Display_DCB-FM01.html
> 
> I've not used them personally though.


I was aware of that when I bought the BPs ..... the Koolance was too far from an aesthetic match, I'm not concerned about settlement issues as not using Aurora and paddlewheel remains outta the bottom of the tube.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The only reason bubbles stay so long in the reservoirs is there isn't a high "flow speed" through it. Unlike the rest of the loop that has smaller diameter/channels that increase fluid speed through them.


.

Any turbulence in the res (i.e. no fill tube) will also recreate them..... when I was using the DW and multi-port top hadn't as yet arrived, the res looked like a bottle of seltzer with little bubblettes attached tot he sides.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> figured as much, but it still bugs the hell out of me. I use to use a tiny amount of water wetter in my original loop, but it eventually dries & cracks acrylic.


Mayems Pastel uses some kind of surfactant which eliminates the problem.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The proper mix is one bottle pastel concentrate(250ml) to two bottles (500ml) of DI or DS water, makes 750ml total.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> Look's like added too much water, 750ml DS water + 250ml pastel.
> Thanks a lot for your help!


I thought it was 1:3 .... just threw out the old bottles so can't check but ...

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17708/ex-liq-285/Mayhems_Pastel_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_Red.html?tl=c337s1809b217
Quote:


> Color: Red
> Mixture Ratio: 250mL concentrate to 750mL DI water or Ultra Pure


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Ah damn, your right, I was thinking Aurora, as I just mixed a batch.
> 
> Sorry @AndresR your mix is correct!!!


@JackNaylorPE since you said you were behind, you must have missed me correcting that also.


----------



## skupples




----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> 
> 
> I really like the Pastel Sunset Yellow


Very odd choice of color scheme... I would have gone with pastel pure black in that build or blood red...


----------



## Kokin

I would have gone white for that, but the yellow gives a nice contrast. Reminds me of burger places since red and yellow is a common color scheme. Thinking of In-n-Out or McDonalds.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> @JackNaylorPE since you said you were behind, you must have missed me correcting that also.


Yup....got so far posted, and then broke for dinner .... say the notice when I came back.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Very odd choice of color scheme... I would have gone with pastel pure black in that build or blood red...


It's good that we all have different taste and like different things








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I would have gone white for that, but the yellow gives a nice contrast. Reminds me of burger places since red and yellow is a common color scheme. Thinking of In-n-Out or McDonalds.


McDonalds LOL Nice one


----------



## Mayhem

Dunno yellow and red kind of looks oky. Different and well stands out


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> 
> 
> I really like the Pastel Sunset Yellow


Some LED spotlights on the motherboard, and red sleeving might keep the pastel from standing out so much.

I like the color contrast, but the pastel kind of grabs all the attention as is.

Just my









On a side note, I like what you did with the tube going to or form your rad, it's all squiggly but blends in with the rest. It's always hard to get squiggly stuff while it still blends in. XD
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I drink X1 so my madd skillz don't get rusty..


Grape drank


----------



## Kokin

For pastel, would I need to mix it with DI water before putting in a loop or is it possible to just add on to an existing DI water loop? Obviously mixing it is the recommended option, but I'm curious if the latter is also possible?


----------



## 15goudreau

Anyone know why it seems like the dye is separating from the pastel? Here's a pic of what I am talking about



After the pump is on for a bit it goes away...but it's kinda frustrating.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Anyone know why it seems like the dye is separating from the pastel? Here's a pic of what I am talking about
> 
> 
> 
> After the pump is on for a bit it goes away...but it's kinda frustrating.


Did you add dye to the pastel? And if so, was it mayhems dye??

I've used the red pastel with deep red dye and never had it do that, even after being off for several days.....

Hey Mick, thoughts??


----------



## luciddreamer124

All pastel coolants separate out a little bit after sitting for a while. Additional dye just makes that more noticeable I think.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> For pastel, would I need to mix it with DI water before putting in a loop or is it possible to just add on to an existing DI water loop? Obviously mixing it is the recommended option, but I'm curious if the latter is also possible?


Always mix before putting it into the loop

It isn't like a dye, it is a concentrated fluid. You should also follow the specified ratio fairly closely (250ml pastel to 750ml pure water). The only way I could think to do it inside the loop would be to know exactly the amount of DI water in there, drain out exactly the amount of water that you intend to replace with pastel concentrate, then fill it with the pastel. I doubt this could be done accurately.

Please just mix it and then fill your loop, lol


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Anyone know why it seems like the dye is separating from the pastel? Here's a pic of what I am talking about
> 
> 
> 
> After the pump is on for a bit it goes away...but it's kinda frustrating.


This is Normal. Pastel is a "Nano" fluid and the heavy parts of the "Nano" fluid drop out and leave that band at the top. The longer it doesn't move the larger the gap will be. It will pick stright back up as soon as the pump is turned on. Pastel is not a Normal fluid is a suspending fluid.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Always mix before putting it into the loop
> 
> It isn't like a dye, it is a concentrated fluid. You should also follow the specified ratio fairly closely (250ml pastel to 750ml pure water). The only way I could think to do it inside the loop would be to know exactly the amount of DI water in there, drain out exactly the amount of water that you intend to replace with pastel concentrate, then fill it with the pastel. I doubt this could be done accurately.
> 
> Please just mix it and then fill your loop, lol


I'm moving my loop out of my Prodigy and into a CL Mercury S3, so I have to redo my loop regardless. My plan was to measure out how much DI was to be used in the new loop and drain the amount needed for the Pastel, then add in the exact amount of Mayhem's Pastel and just have the natural circulation mix up the fluids. I'll probably just drain the whole thing after leak testing and mix the Pastel the proper way.









Thanks for your reply! +rep


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> This is Normal. Pastel is a "Nano" fluid and the heavy parts of the "Nano" fluid drop out and leave that band at the top. The longer it doesn't move the larger the gap will be. It will pick stright back up as soon as the pump is turned on. Pastel is not a Normal fluid is a suspending fluid.


Thanks for answering my question Mick







I'm loving the dye + pastel it really makes my build POP. I have more on the way too


----------



## cyphon

Got the aurora going in my WIP last night. Hard not to sit and stare at it lol. I'll try to put up pics a little later.


----------



## natsu2014

Anybody know what is this the thing on the top of the fluid? Nvm, found out what it is



@down Yes sir!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Anybody know what is this the thing on the top of the fluid?
> 
> https://dl-web.dropbox.com/get/Przes%C5%82ane%20z%20aparatu/2014-02-11%2017.10.32.jpg?_subject_uid=206075816&w=AAB2GqI_4qJQTDJferJTZJALSI_IOkbF2xYqQw0Gu669PA


Try uploading the photo here directly!


----------



## tinkythomas

Hi, I'm about to order 1ltr of Mayhems X1 clear coolant. Is it ok to use with a Corsair H60 AIO cooler? I need to shorten the tubes on this unit so will need to refill the loop.

Regards,
Chris


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinkythomas*
> 
> Hi, I'm about to order 1ltr of Mayhems X1 clear coolant. Is it ok to use with a Corsair H60 AIO cooler? I need to shorten the tubes on this unit so will need to refill the loop.
> 
> Regards,
> Chris


Corsair AIO has aluminum radiators, not sure X1 would be okay for that. XT-1 would be fine, as it's an EG coolant so massive anti corrosives. X1 does have anti corrosives, but I'm unsure whether it would be strong enough for aluminum. maybe it would be best to wait for mick to chime in.


----------



## ozzy1925

guys ,i think i accidentally used deionized water to flush my rads in order to buy distilled .Will it make difference?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys ,i think i accidentally used deionized water to flush my rads in order to buy distilled .Will it make difference?


You will be fine.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You will be fine.


Thanks 1 more question:This deionized water can be mixed with mayhem pastels ?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Thanks 1 more question:This deionized water can be mixed with mayhem pastels ?


Also should be fine


----------



## devsfan1830

Soon I may be getting a Case labs ST10 and along with it I'm thinking of changing my coolant from Blue dyed XT-1 to White Pastel. Anyone have any suggestions for effectively flushing the blue dye out of the res? I'm gonna scrub out the blocks and get new tube. But the last time i did maintenance several rinses of the res kept resulting in blue tinted water. I'd rather not see a pure white pastel go blue on me and Id rather avoid buying a new res if I can help it..


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> Soon I may be getting a Case labs ST10 and along with it I'm thinking of changing my coolant from Blue dyed XT-1 to White Pastel. Anyone have any suggestions for effectively flushing the blue dye out of the res? I'm gonna scrub out the blocks and get new tube. But the last time i did maintenance several rinses of the res kept resulting in blue tinted water. I'd rather not see a pure white pastel go blue on me and Id rather avoid buying a new res if I can help it..


Bicarb is what's recommended to prep for pastel, but I doubt that's going to make any difference vs water for getting coolant out.

My recommendation would be get a gallon or two of water, hook up your loop outside the chassis on your counter, prime the pump, and hook up the outtake to the sink, and intake from a big tank of water.

Just let it flow in, grab all the blue trapped inside the loop, and flow out into the sink so it doesn't recycle back in and trap itself again.

You'd also be able to see how clear the water coming out is.


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Bicarb is what's recommended to prep for pastel, but I doubt that's going to make any difference vs water for getting coolant out.
> 
> My recommendation would be get a gallon or two of water, hook up your loop outside the chassis on your counter, prime the pump, and hook up the outtake to the sink, and intake from a big tank of water.
> 
> Just let it flow in, grab all the blue trapped inside the loop, and flow out into the sink so it doesn't recycle back in and trap itself again.
> 
> You'd also be able to see how clear the water coming out is.


Ok so basically just patience and a ton of water. Sounds like a plan. Thanks for the reply!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinkythomas*
> 
> Hi, I'm about to order 1ltr of Mayhems X1 clear coolant. Is it ok to use with a Corsair H60 AIO cooler? I need to shorten the tubes on this unit so will need to refill the loop.
> 
> Regards,
> Chris


H60's tubes can now be disassembled/removed?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> H60's tubes can now be disassembled/removed?


Disassembled, no, removed, yes.

They are shrunk onto the barbs, so you pretty much have to tear em off and rip em apart to get them off. You also void Corsairs VERY extensive warranty by doing this.


----------



## skupples

So, just like it was 3 years ago. If it's like it was, there is no viable way to re-attach them. I see that corsair is now using a higher quality noeprene'esq tubing, that would make them easier to cut, but it's still going to be a PITA to re-attach them.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> Ok so basically just patience and a ton of water. Sounds like a plan. Thanks for the reply!


I was using Mayhem's Blue dye with Distilled water and it took MANY flushes for the blue dye to disappear from my radiators. Expect to flush for 30~45mins. I just used hot tap water and rinsed with distilled once the blue dye was flushed out.

I'm currently only using distilled water without dyes and the blue tint never came back after extensive flushing with hot tap water. Once I get my Mercury S3 case, I'll be using Pastel White as well. I recommend that you fill your loop with distilled only and look for the blue tint and once you've confirmed that it is entirely gone (as well as leak tested), drain and add the mixed Pastel so it doesn't go to waste.


----------



## djriful

The Mayhem Ice White Pastel been running the system for a month+ now. It is still super white except the Primochill Advanced LTR tubes gets a bit tinty yellow (which is normal).


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> The Mayhem Ice White Pastel been running the system for a month+ now. It is still super white except the Primochill Advanced LTR tubes gets a bit tinty yellow (which is normal).


Is that normal for Pastel White only or just in general? I've reused Advanced LRT that was stained blue with Mayhem's Blue Dye and I was able to rinse the blue stain out. It's just as clear as the non-stained tubing when only running distilled water.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Is that normal for Pastel White only or just in general? I've reused Advanced LRT that was stained blue with Mayhem's Blue Dye and I was able to rinse the blue stain out. It's just as clear as the non-stained tubing when only running distilled water.


It's not the dye that makes it yellow, it's plasticizers. Advanced LRT will leech eventually, but not for a long time compared to most tubing.


----------



## djriful

What tubes would you recommend beside Primochill ones? Aren't the Advanced LRT best available at the moment?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It's not the dye that makes it yellow, it's plasticizers. Advanced LRT will leech eventually, but not for a long time compared to most tubing.


Really? I've seen people use it for 6~8 months with no discoloration. I've been using mine for almost 4 months and they are still as clear as the unused tubes that I have.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> What tubes would you recommend beside Primochill ones? Aren't the Advanced LRT best available at the moment?


Advanced LRT are the Primochill ones I was referring too. Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT for the full name.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Really? I've seen people use it for 6~8 months with no discoloration. I've been using mine for almost 4 months and they are still as clear as the unused tubes that I have.


They very from batch to batch, primochill has never been that good at consistency; even the tubing ID and OD varies a mm or so from batch to batch. What coolant you're using can also effect plasticizers leeching rate.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> Ok so basically just patience and a ton of water. Sounds like a plan. Thanks for the reply!


If you have owned a water bed or fish tank, this is great

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11147172&locale=en_US&green=6F886021-E946-597C-0778-F8FC0D3524C8



I paid about $19 for mine and have it for > 20 years

Of course if ya have the tubing already, all ya need is the $10 sink attachment

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4061037&f=PAD%2FpsNotAvailInUS%2FNo



Carry the puter down by the sink .... hook that $10 thingie (with bottom open) up to the faucet, connect tube to ya system drain and it will suck the coolant out (open something to let air in at top).

Close the bottom valve of the faucet attachment to have faucet feed flush water to the system..... I find the most convenient place is the pump inlet and outlet .... I also recommend reverse flow from normal loop operations as this will help flush out any debris that may have been stuck in ya blocks. Of course you will need a return tube so that the flush water will dump in the sink.

When I flush I do a cupla minutes of hot followed by cupla minutes of cold water...... the thermal expansion / contraction will help shake anything caught in nooks and crannies loose.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> Ok so basically just patience and a ton of water. Sounds like a plan. Thanks for the reply!
> 
> If you have owned a water bed or fish tank, this is great
> 
> http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11147172&locale=en_US&green=6F886021-E946-597C-0778-F8FC0D3524C8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I stopped there and spat coffee all over my Laptop*
Click to expand...


----------



## Frontside

Hey, guys. So for how long does the color of Mayhems last? I've herd that EK or XSPC doesn't last long


----------



## Mayhem

Both Ek and XSPC last long enough if you look after your system.

X1 lasts about a year, XT1 about 1 year, Aurora dependant on your system and pastel upwards of 2 years + (max weve tested is 3 years)


----------



## Frontside

Thank you, Mayhem. So what should i do to keep it vibrant? I have seen some shots of blood red XSPC liquid turns into something that looks like beer


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *I stopped there and spat coffee all over my Laptop*


It's called "thinking outta the box"..... or .... "intelligent use of available resources"







...... why buy more tubing / parts when something sitting in cabinet is free ? Even if ya spring for the $10 sink attachment, it's certainly far less expensive in both time and money than any other alternative I have seen.

With the sink attachment, I can turn it on and walk away, while it flushes for 30 minutes. and with clean not recycled water.... certainly beats the usual hand fill and bucket method..... not to mention direct pressure from the house's pressurized plumbing system sends water thru at quite a clip .... also works nicely when ya have paint flakes from a screwed fitting or some other debris stuck in ya water blocks with reverse flow and good pressure, flushes the buggers right out.

Hooked it up....turned faucet to HOT, made lunch, then switched back and forth from COLD to HOT to COLD about every 7-8 minutes while reading paper.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> It's called "thinking outta the box"..... or .... "intelligent use of available resources"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...... why buy more tubing / parts when something sitting in cabinet is free ? Even if ya spring for the $10 sink attachment, it's certainly far less expensive in both time and money than any other alternative I have seen.
> 
> With the sink attachment, I can turn it on and walk away, while it flushes for 30 minutes. and with clean not recycled water.... certainly beats the usual hand fill and bucket method..... not to mention direct pressure from the house's pressurized plumbing system sends water thru at quite a clip .... also works nicely when ya have paint flakes from a screwed fitting or some other debris stuck in ya water blocks with reverse flow and good pressure, flushes the buggers right out.
> 
> Hooked it up....turned faucet to HOT, made lunch, then switched back and forth from COLD to HOT to COLD about every 7-8 minutes while reading paper.


Uh, Jack, I think it was the photo that he made his comment on, the device in the bottom left corner of that photo looks like a device from an ADULT NOVELTY store!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> If you have owned a water bed or fish tank, this is great
> 
> http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11147172&locale=en_US&green=6F886021-E946-597C-0778-F8FC0D3524C8
> 
> 
> 
> I paid about $19 for mine and have it for > 20 years
> 
> Of course if ya have the tubing already, all ya need is the $10 sink attachment
> 
> http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4061037&f=PAD%2FpsNotAvailInUS%2FNo
> 
> 
> 
> Carry the puter down by the sink .... hook that $10 thingie (with bottom open) up to the faucet, connect tube to ya system drain and it will suck the coolant out (open something to let air in at top).
> 
> Close the bottom valve of the faucet attachment to have faucet feed flush water to the system..... I find the most convenient place is the pump inlet and outlet .... I also recommend reverse flow from normal loop operations as this will help flush out any debris that may have been stuck in ya blocks. Of course you will need a return tube so that the flush water will dump in the sink.
> 
> When I flush I do a cupla minutes of hot followed by cupla minutes of cold water...... the thermal expansion / contraction will help shake anything caught in nooks and crannies loose.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Uh, Jack, I think it was the photo that he made his comment on, the device in the bottom left corner of that photo looks like a device from an ADULT NOVELTY store!


----------



## djriful

Dirty minds... you guys are thinking too much.


----------



## M3TAl

That's what I thought when I first saw one of those, was probably 12 years old. Still to this day it makes me laugh


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Uh, Jack, I think it was the photo that he made his comment on, the device in the bottom left corner of that photo looks like a device from an ADULT NOVELTY store!


Geez.... I must be old .... thought never occurred to me....... and now that it has, I'll skip the "too small" joke









That's the part that's used to clean gravel ...actually the device has some nice engineering in it .... venturi in the faucet attachment provides suction with running water. .... and the part you focused on ttok some testing I'm sure as the diameter had to be selected such that the velocity up the tube is enough to lift all the cred outta the gravel but not so much that it takes the gravel with it.

It wud be funny, given the nerd stereotype, if sales surge at Petsmart...... lotta peeps flushing their WC systems .... or some alternate usage.


----------



## Vapour1ze

Hi all, just found this thread in my search for Mayhems Ice White! I cannot find it anywhere, long story short I've had my loop setup for almost six months and am flushing the system to add some components in and want to run Mayhems Ice White Pastel...

Cannot for the life of me find a 250/1L bottle of this anywhere! Frozencpu and Xoxide is out, even though Xoxide shows in stock (well at this time it did) it is out, I have called and spoke with the warehouse manager.

I know I can order directly through your website Mayhem, but the only option I see is 20$ shipping...









Anyone have an idea?

I would prefer the 250ml concentrate.

Thanks!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vapour1ze*
> 
> Hi all, just found this thread in my search for Mayhems Ice White! I cannot find it anywhere, long story short I've had my loop setup for almost six months and am flushing the system to add some components in and want to run Mayhems Ice White Pastel...
> 
> Cannot for the life of me find a 250/1L bottle of this anywhere! Frozencpu and Xoxide is out, even though Xoxide shows in stock (well at this time it did) it is out, I have called and spoke with the warehouse manager.
> 
> I know I can order directly through your website Mayhem, but the only option I see is 20$ shipping...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have an idea?
> 
> I would prefer the 250ml concentrate.
> 
> Thanks!


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34079


----------



## Vapour1ze

Wow, how did I not see that on PPCS , thanks so much man!


----------



## skupples

think i'll stick to my 5 micron GE filter method.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*










I have to rewatch that movie now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vapour1ze*
> 
> Wow, how did I not see that on PPCS , thanks so much man!


I think they restocked recently, since it was sold out for quite a while during January. I just bought a bottle of Mayhem's Ice White with some Primochill Advanced LRT tubing today, should be shipped by Friday.


----------



## Mayhem

lol im glad i was not the only one thinking of alternative things that equipment pictured above could have been used for lol.

@Frontside If someone's red is turning a dirty brown colour i know perfectly well what is effecting it how ever if its not made buy us then its not my problem. The company's selling the products should do there homework and find out what the issue is cos im not going back them up lol.


----------



## IT Diva

Ahhhh Mick,

Got a question for you . . . . .

I have all the components of the questionably sane Stretch Limo build setup on my tech bench for pre testing and setup.

I have only a single loop on the tech bench and currently it's running just distilled water.

I'd like to run X1 Clear since I have the bench set up so I don't have to drain it every new project.

Here's the question;

In the build, 2 GPU's are on a loop with Pastel Ice White and the other 2 GPU's are X1 Blue (the cpu/mobo loop is X1 Red)

On the bench, the CPU/mobo and all 4 GPU's are on the same loop.

If I run X1 Clear on the bench, how much do I have to flush the 2 GPU's that are going on the Pastel White loop when they permanently install back in the Stretch Limo?

I don't see an issue with a tad of the X1 Clear left in the blocks for the red and blue loops, since they are X1 based, . .

But I worry a bit about the compatibility of Pastel White with any residual X1 clear.

Thanks in advance,

Darlene

Couple pics to make the question more clear;

This is the setup on the tech bench:



And here's how it's configured in the build:


----------



## szeged

Going to be pulling my rig apart and giving it a good cleaning on monday due to some nickle corrosion, got a question on what i should do after its all cleaned out.

option A -

get a bottle of mayhems X1 blood red for the dye

or

option B -

get a bottle of mayhems deep red

get a bottle of mayhems blue

get a bottle of mayhems biocide extreme

mix them all up into my own blood red solution.

Ive tried both in the past and ive had the red fade on me almost instantly, which was most likely my fault, i cleaned everything out but i guess not enough.

The last time i put my loop together i spent a good 5 hours cleaning every single component out best i could, still had the same problem.

Going to give it one last try before i say screw it and just use clear distilled water in the loop.

thoughts/opinions?

thanks.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Going to be pulling my rig apart and giving it a good cleaning on monday due to some nickle corrosion, got a question on what i should do after its all cleaned out.
> 
> option A -
> 
> get a bottle of mayhems X1 blood red for the dye
> 
> or
> 
> option B -
> 
> get a bottle of mayhems deep red
> 
> get a bottle of mayhems blue
> 
> get a bottle of mayhems biocide extreme
> 
> mix them all up into my own blood red solution.
> 
> Ive tried both in the past and ive had the red fade on me almost instantly, which was most likely my fault, i cleaned everything out but i guess not enough.
> 
> The last time i put my loop together i spent a good 5 hours cleaning every single component out best i could, still had the same problem.
> 
> Going to give it one last try before i say screw it and just use clear distilled water in the loop.
> 
> thoughts/opinions?
> 
> thanks.


CuSo4 doesn't play nice with dye or UV effects, I'd DEFINITELY go with X1 if you had corrosion issues with nickle as CuSo4 will only further accelerate those.

Mayhems Biocide Extreme says it has stuffs in it that keeps it from eating dyes, which from my experience is a true enough claim but even then my Clear/UV blue lasted exponentially longer in X1 than it did in distilled+Mayhems Biocide Extreme.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> CuSo4 doesn't play nice with dye or UV effects, I'd DEFINITELY go with X1 if you had corrosion issues with nickle as CuSo4 will only further accelerate those.
> 
> Mayhems Biocide Extreme says it has stuffs in it that keeps it from eating dyes, which from my experience is a true enough claim but even then my Clear/UV blue lasted exponentially longer in X1 than it did in distilled+Mayhems Biocide Extreme.


Agreed, go X1


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Well that's exciting!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just have to order 1 from every vendor I know till I hit the jackpot!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously though, so what can you
> tell us the difference between the new and old aurora, does it have all the same colours?
> Can it be used as a long term coolant ?
> If so how long with a standard dcc with single gpu and cpu?
> are their any test result we can see compared to the original?
> What does the original label say if we have never seen the original to compare?
> 
> And I want the gold & black aurora


Exaclty what I tried......Looks like I lost my first round









This could get expensive.......



Missing the new and improved


----------



## Mayhem

contact [email protected] ive just sent him more stock of different colours .... He may be able to say who got what if they have it at all.


----------



## skruffs01

Thx Mick....msg sent. I also ordered two premix bottles of blue nebula from your website as a backup


----------



## Mayhem

Youll need to ask for them to be the new improved version as Blue only went down this week and i dont know how much he had left..


----------



## cyphon

I already got the old aurora running in my system (not completely finished with build, but I will have pics soon) as I figured there would be waiting and grey periods on what you get. Once this batch has run its course, there should be no trouble getting the new stuff. So far no issues at all with the old aurora and I've been running it and leaving it for long periods throughout the week.

There is a small dead area in my res that some pearls are collecting but it is certainly not enough to take away from the effect. A simple shake of the chassis gets them back into the mix as well.

The one thing that completely affects the effect is lighting and I'm curious if some of the complaints about aurora not working were results of not lighting it correctly. Some ways I've positioned lights it looks like murky liquid (I.e. Strong light source directly behind the system from the viewer perspective. Other ways, I've gotten the aurora awesomeness (I.e. Strong light source shining directly at the system from the viewer perspective). Though, This makes sense as the pearls are supposed to reflect light....still curious if there was a simple oversight of case lighting from some of those complainers.


----------



## djriful

Ice White Pastel and Ice White Pastel w/ UV Blue is the same right except it has the UV dye?


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

What do you guys think about this pump solution
i'm thinking of using that with a 360 rad and a 240, cpu block 2 gpu blocks, and Aurora.

is it overkill and a single mcp655 would suffice or the more flow the better?









http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=30192


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> What do you guys think about this pump solution
> i'm thinking of using that with a 360 rad and a 240, cpu block 2 gpu blocks, and Aurora.
> 
> is it overkill and a single mcp655 would suffice or the more flow the better?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=30192


Dual pumps are just insurance in case one fails. I'm sticking with 1 pump.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

does 2 pumps not increase the flow? am i wrong in thinking this.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> does 2 pumps not increase the flow? am i wrong in thinking this.


Nope, it won't increase flow.


----------



## Ovrclck

Wow, I learned something today then. Never knew that about pumps. I always thought it increased flow. Thanks guys.

Sent from Note 3


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

well that saves me some cash, i'm going to be retubing my system with rigid tube, but instead of bending im gonna use fittings i prefer the look of the fittings


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> well that saves me some cash, i'm going to be retubing my system with rigid tube, but instead of bending im gonna use fittings i prefer the look of the fittings


If your using Aurora, there have been issues with 90 degree fittings, either use flexible tube, or rigid tubing that's been bent. It's recommended even by mayhems to avoid 90 degree fittings.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Dual pumps are just insurance in case one fails. I'm sticking with 1 pump.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> does 2 pumps not increase the flow? am i wrong in thinking this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Wow, I learned something today then. Never knew that about pumps. I always thought it increased flow. Thanks guys.
> 
> Sent from Note 3


Much misinformation, dual pumps increases head pressure. More restriction in your loop means a higher pressure drop, a higher pressure drop means lower flowrates. So dual pumps increases pressure which increases flowrates as a result. If you already have 1.5-2GPM then adding a pump won't get you much better flowrates, as your pump is already pretty near what that pump can deal with. If you're only getting .5GPM a second pump would be a good idea, or just turn up your original pump if it's nto already on full. It's a good idea to have a flowrate monitor.

Anyways, further inquiry should be taken to another thread, not a Mayhems User Club. hijacking threads is no good.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> does 2 pumps not increase the flow? am i wrong in thinking this.
> 
> 
> 
> *Nope, it won't increase flow*.
Click to expand...

Where on earth did you get this mistaken notion from









It's absolutely wrong.

Dual and even triple pumps scale quite well so far as increasing flow, especially in long or complex loops where a single pump doesn't give sufficient flow rate.

In smaller, simpler loops, it gives the option of running multiple pumps at a slower speed for less noise to get the same flow rate as a single pump at much greater speed and db level.

Lastly, it offers redundancy should one fail. That's usually farther down on the plusses list, as there are so many ways to integrate alarms and shutdown while using only a single pump.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Wow, I learned something today then. Never knew that about pumps*. I always thought it increased flow*. Thanks guys.
> 
> Sent from Note 3


It Does . . . . Be careful who you listen to, and if it doesn't sound right, go get some third party verification.

Don't just take it on my say so . . .

Go ask the question in the WC thread, see what the guys with decades of experience and scores of builds say.

And if you don't buy it from those guys, then look at the testing results from Martin:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/04/26/pump-setup-series-vs-parallel/2/

Darlene


----------



## djriful

I always thought it's like extra torque power to push vs speed (max same rpm)? He was asking about flow rate increase which is barely but for pressure yes?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I always thought it's like extra torque power to push vs speed (max same rpm)? He was asking about flow rate increase which is barely but for pressure yes?


Pressure drop and flowrate are directly related. Increase pressure drop and you decrease flowrate, increase head pressure and you increase flowrate up to the pumps nominal flow, can't go past that though.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> does 2 pumps not increase the flow? am i wrong in thinking this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Nope, it won't increase flow.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Wow, I learned something today then. Never knew that about pumps. I always thought it increased flow. Thanks guys.
> 
> Sent from Note 3


Yes and no, as with everything







.

At a theoretical level:

Pumps in series configuration add head pressure. This is used to overcome larger pressure drops in a system.


Pumps in parallel configuration add flow rates. This is used to push larger volume flows.


In the images:

point 1 is where the system operates with a single pump in each configuration
point 2 in the series graph is where the results of doubling the pressure at the same flow rate
point 2 in the parallel graph is where the results of doubling the flow rate at the same pressure
point 3 is where the actual system performs at with the two pumps

In PCs you really only see (and need) series configuration as the second pump is almost always used for one of two reasons:
1) To increase pressure so the pumps can push water through larger, more restrictive loops
2) Redundancy in case of a pump failure

Depending on your pump and your loop config, you may or may not 'need' a second pump


----------



## dota2er

Does mayhems x1 work well with XSPC res and Nickel + Acetal water block? thanks


----------



## ADragg

Hey guys, I've had Pastel Blue Berry in my system for a few months and it has worked great, but I'm about to re-build into a new Caselabs S5 and while I will probably keep using Blue Berry with that build, I am curious if my components will be stained blue at all? In your experience, does the Pastel coolant tend to stain things like acrylic water blocks, res's, etc? Also, if I'm careful not to let it get contaminated, is it okay to re-use the Pastel BB that's only 3 months old? I actually have probably half a loop worth of BB that I haven't used yet, but could I refill the rest of the new loop with the drained coolant if I caught the coolant in a clean container?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dota2er*
> 
> Does mayhems x1 work well with XSPC res and Nickel + Acetal water block? thanks


Should be fine
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> Hey guys, I've had Pastel Blue Berry in my system for a few months and it has worked great, but I'm about to re-build into a new Caselabs S5 and while I will probably keep using Blue Berry with that build, I am curious if my components will be stained blue at all? In your experience, does the Pastel coolant tend to stain things like acrylic water blocks, res's, etc? Also, if I'm careful not to let it get contaminated, is it okay to re-use the Pastel BB that's only 3 months old? I actually have probably half a loop worth of BB that I haven't used yet, but could I refill the rest of the new loop with the drained coolant if I caught the coolant in a clean container?


Pastel typically doesn't stain unless you add a bunch of extra dye, specifically UV dyes.

Yes you can reuse the fluid. Run it through a filter (coffee filter will work) after draining and before you put it in the new system. and yes use a clean container


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Ice White Pastel and Ice White Pastel w/ UV Blue is the same right except it has the UV dye?


Ice white - is just white
UV White - is White + UV clear blue


----------



## Mayhem

@cyphon Fire me a PM please with your full details inc tel and ill ship something in the post to you to add to your Aurora







.


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Youll need to ask for them to be the new improved version as Blue only went down this week and i dont know how much he had left..


Ok...Thanks Mick....Hopefully its the new stuff they send (no reply yet from steve)...That's what I get for assuming that your website would be shipping the + and not the old version. Asking here first would have been better idea before ordering.

Lets hope I don't have 3 bottles of old this next week.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @cyphon Fire me a PM please with your full details inc tel and ill ship something in the post to you to add to your Aurora
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


PM sent, thanks again!


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Anyone have a picture of Ice White + Primoflex UV Blue?

I got a nickel Heatkiller GPU block now, so I'm thinking of throwing in a corrosion inhibitor just to be safe. Otherwise I'll just use PT Nuke PHN.


----------



## stickg1

If you want a clear fluid with corrosion inhibitors try out the Mayhems X1 clear.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Nah, I don't necessarily want clear. There's just a bottle of ice white on sale which I really like the look of, but I don't see myself making an order for new tubing any time soon so I'm wondering how it looks with the blue tubing.

I saw a Youtube video where it looked like a baby blue, but that was with XSPC blue. I remember there was another build here with pastel white and colored tubing, but I can't find it.


----------



## hell167

I have a question. I got some mayhem x1 concentrate that's clear/UV blue. If I added some mayhem orange dye to it would it still glow under UV light? Or would the dye kill off the UV part?

If not, would it still be UV blue?


----------



## Mayhem

if you add orange to it you will have some strange effect. You will lose most of its uv blue though as its just a light colour.

@skruffs01 yeh i have no control of what you get from the mayhems shop / warehouse as that is run from a separate part of mayhems that si 100 miles away from me.


----------



## stickg1

I wanna try some Aurora. I don't mind if it doesn't last long or if it leaves particles behind, I have the tools to clean it and refill with either X1 or PAstel that I have lying around.

I was just wondering which color I should go for? Is there a black and gold or something like that?

Here's my current setup..


----------



## Mayhem

im re working gold so atm there is no gold made atm. unless there is some left in the shop.


----------



## VSG

I am eagerly awaiting gold and silver


----------



## stickg1

What about the Ring Tail Gold?


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> if you add orange to it you will have some strange effect. You will lose most of its uv blue though as its just a light colour.
> 
> @skruffs01 yeh i have no control of what you get from the mayhems shop / warehouse as that is run from a separate part of mayhems that si 100 miles away from me.


Lets keep our fingers crossed


----------



## 15goudreau

Just want to say Mayhem's is more amazing than I thought. I was redoing my loop and I spilled a bunch on my bedsheets and on my jeans...totally washed out. I was super bummed until I ran it through the wash. Quality stuff there Mick, even your dyes are high quality


----------



## Mayhem

lol if you spilt pink you wouldn't be saying that,,,,, lol


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> lol if you spilt pink you wouldn't be saying that,,,,, lol


That's probably true! But my color scheme doesn't use red / pink so I'm all set


----------



## Papuz

hello, you say I can do a similar color? semi-transparent light purple and maybe UV?


----------



## Vapour1ze

Is it safe to run a silver plug with Mayhem's Pastel? Or is that not advised.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vapour1ze*
> 
> Is it safe to run a silver plug with Mayhem's Pastel? Or is that not advised.


It's completely not necessary, there are already biocides in pastel, and X1 and aurora for that matter. I don't know if it will hurt anything having the plug in regarding the fluid itself. But I would personally take the silver plug out.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vapour1ze*
> 
> Is it safe to run a silver plug with Mayhem's Pastel? Or is that not advised.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It's completely not necessary, there are already biocides in pastel, and X1 and aurora for that matter. I don't know if it will hurt anything having the plug in regarding the fluid itself. But I would personally take the silver plug out.


It's safe but redundant and completely unnecessary

It would like using two dual pumps for redundancy.


----------



## Mayhem

its just another metal added to the loop its upto you how ever id personally not bother . but that is my own PO.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> its just another metal added to the loop its upto you how ever id personally not bother . but that is my own PO.


Speaking of silver, I just got some Monsoon rigid compression fittings and JUST noticed they are silver plated, as opposed to nickle plated. I'll have lots of nickle, and lots of these fittings in the loop. Is X1 going to have a strong enough corrosion inhibitor or should I switch to XT-1?

Around 20 of these fittings, and three nickle plated full coverage GPU waterblocks.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Speaking of silver, I just got some Monsoon rigid compression fittings and JUST noticed they are silver plated, as opposed to nickle plated. I'll have lots of nickle, and lots of these fittings in the loop. Is X1 going to have a strong enough corrosion inhibitor or should I switch to XT-1?
> 
> Around 20 of these fittings, and three nickle plated full coverage GPU waterblocks.


I did not know the Monsoons were silver plated....I will have to keep that in mind for future reference.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I did not know the Monsoons were silver plated....I will have to keep that in mind for future reference.


The chaingun fittings aren't. At least the coloured portion isn't. It flakes off like crazy just removing the tubing once it's on.... I'm really disappointed with the quality of the barbs. The compression part works flawlessly, and you can't really see the barbs so it doesn't bother me much.


----------



## Mulle1991

Anybody here using the Ice Dragon Nano?

If there is someone could you plz upload some pictures of your system.
i realy would like see the color in the tubes or somthing

Regards


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Has anyone experienced aurora nanoparticles getting stuck in compression fittings, where the barb meets the tube, that slightly angled portion that allows the tubing to slip over.

just curious


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I think Monsoon makes specific silver compression fittings. Otherwise, they aren't silver plated.


----------



## Mayhem

If you have gaps aurora will find it and get into it the same as pastel


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

I don't know of any fittings that dont have the gap, any recommendations?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> im re working gold so atm there is no gold made atm. unless there is some left in the shop.


Im especially interested in this, the only reason I would do aurora would be to run this in my loop,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you have gaps aurora will find it and get into it the same as pastel


Uhh so question regarding pastel, does it do this to your blocks??????



cause this is beyond terrible for your blocks... I'm about to use pastel pure black, but after reading I don't know anymore I have over $4000 in parts and blocks only to get destroyed.


----------



## VSG

Where was that from? That looks like a bad case of loop pH being far from neutral. Either way, I thought Pastel Black had some stability issues at the moment?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Im especially interested in this, the only reason I would do aurora would be to run this in my loop,
> Uhh so question regarding pastel, does it do this to your blocks??????
> 
> 
> 
> cause this is beyond terrible for your blocks... I'm about to use pastel pure black, but after reading I don't know anymore I have over $4000 in parts and blocks only to get destroyed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Where was that from? That looks like a bad case of loop pH being far from neutral. Either way, I thought Pastel Black had some stability issues at the moment?


That's called crappy tubing, that thing is riddled with plasticizer buildup that has been colored by the coolants dye. That buildup wasn't CAUSED by pastel!

And the pastel black doesn't have stability issues technically, it's just sensitive to Ph in the system, so Mayhems has said to use a bicarbonate flush of the system prior to using it, so that it stays black and doesn't turn to looking like cocoa.


----------



## 15goudreau

I don't think that "destroys" the block either... You just need to clean it


----------



## VSG

Oh that's plasticizer? I was wondering what combination of dyes to use to get that color pastel lol


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Im especially interested in this, the only reason I would do aurora would be to run this in my loop,
> Uhh so question regarding pastel, does it do this to your blocks??????
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cause this is beyond terrible for your blocks... I'm about to use pastel pure black, but after reading I don't know anymore I have over $4000 in parts and blocks only to get destroyed.


What tubing are you running it that system and for how long? I have been running white pastel with white and Advanced LRT 11 months. Last week I just cleaned the system and it looked as good as new, I was really surprised. This to me looks like dyed plasticizer as Jimhans1 already mentioned.


----------



## cyphon

Yes that is plasticizer. The dye in the pastel dyes it but does not cause the gunking.

The Advanced LRT is a great tubing abd I highly recommend using that.

As far as what dye to get that color, probably was blueberry pastel straight up but if you want it a little lighter shade, ocean blue is a great choice.


----------



## stickg1

The yellow pastel does stain _cloth_ though! My wife was unpleased because apparently I used the wrong wash cloth when cleaning up a mess, there's yellow spots on it now!!









Oh well, I just grab a cloth and wipe it up, I happened to be out of paper towels. I'm not complaining, but the ole' lady, that's a different story!


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*
> 
> What tubing are you running it that system and for how long? I have been running white pastel with white and Advanced LRT 11 months. Last week I just cleaned the system and it looked as good as new, I was really surprised. This to me looks like dyed plasticizer as Jimhans1 already mentioned.


This isn't my system this is just research and was worried because of the reported issues with pure black pastel which I bought, I will be using acrylic tubing so that should be good and when the time comes ill flush the system with the ph stuff u guys were talking about, I saw that on someone's build and was blown away


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> This isn't my system this is just research and was worried because of the reported issues with pure black pastel which I bought, I will be using acrylic tubing so that should be good and when the time comes ill flush the system with the ph stuff u guys were talking about, I saw that on someone's build and was blown away


Flush with sodium bicarbonate (aka *baking soda*) and distilled water as a final flush. This is what is written on the bottle as well.

My question for you guys is that for the baking soda flushing, does it have to use distilled water or is tap water okay as well? I've always flushed my parts with hot tap water before the final distilled water flush, but I've never used Pastel prior to now.


----------



## llamaegg

Has anyone mixed a nice pastel purple? Waiting for my order for my White Caselabs Mercury S8 and trying to think of what colour I want go with for my new loop, wanting something that'll pop.

Don't want Red, it looks nice but want to do something a little different. Yellow is super sharp, but not sure how well it'll stand out in a white case (anyone seen an example of this? Curious how it'll look). A nice blue might work, but kinda falls into the same category as red. I like the idea of pink over red, but it doesn't pop enough for what I'm hoping for.

Decisions, decisions!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> Has anyone mixed a nice pastel purple? Waiting for my order for my White Caselabs Mercury S8 and trying to think of what colour I want go with for my new loop, wanting something that'll pop.
> 
> Don't want Red, it looks nice but want to do something a little different. Yellow is super sharp, but not sure how well it'll stand out in a white case (anyone seen an example of this? Curious how it'll look). A nice blue might work, but kinda falls into the same category as red. I like the idea of pink over red, but it doesn't pop enough for what I'm hoping for.
> 
> Decisions, decisions!


Snef's Purple Chimera is great purple display


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> Has anyone mixed a nice pastel purple? Waiting for my order for my White Caselabs Mercury S8 and trying to think of what colour I want go with for my new loop, wanting something that'll pop.
> 
> Don't want Red, it looks nice but want to do something a little different. Yellow is super sharp, but not sure how well it'll stand out in a white case (anyone seen an example of this? Curious how it'll look). A nice blue might work, but kinda falls into the same category as red. I like the idea of pink over red, but it doesn't pop enough for what I'm hoping for.
> 
> Decisions, decisions!


Check out Purple Chimera built by @snef http://www.caselabs-store.com/purple-chimera-s3-by-snef/

Edit: Ninja'd by @cyphon


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Snef's Purple Chimera is great purple display


I just looked through that log, looks super sharp, but where the heck did he get that purple coolant? It's not even listed on their site!

I also managed to, while going through like 50 pages of this thread, find an example of yellow in a white case, that yellow is way more prominent then I thought. I like!

Edit; Unless that's the Raspberry Purple coolant, which if that's the case the picture on their product page does it no justice.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> I just looked through that log, looks super sharp, but where the heck did he get that purple coolant? It's not even listed on their site!
> 
> I also managed to, while going through like 50 pages of this thread, find an example of yellow in a white case, that yellow is way more prominent then I thought. I like!
> 
> Edit; Unless that's the Raspberry Purple coolant, which if that's the case the picture on their product page does it no justice.


Send @snef a PM, I think he did the color himself.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Flush with sodium bicarbonate (aka *baking soda*) and distilled water as a final flush. This is what is written on the bottle as well.
> 
> My question for you guys is that for the baking soda flushing, does it have to use distilled water or is tap water okay as well? I've always flushed my parts with hot tap water before the final distilled water flush, but I've never used Pastel prior to now.


I'd stick to distilled for a bicarb flush. It's hard to say because water purification plants very from place to place, but some of them use chlorine and other chemicals. The entire point of the bicarb flush is to neutralize the pH, so I wouldn't be comfortable with risking all the chemicals from the purification plant messing that up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> This isn't my system this is just research and was worried because of the reported issues with pure black pastel which I bought, I will be using acrylic tubing so that should be good and when the time comes ill flush the system with the ph stuff u guys were talking about, I saw that on someone's build and was blown away


Yeah, you'll want to flush really well with bicarb and then mix with distilled water, not deionized, and fill. Black is fairly sensitive to pH so you'll want to be careful with it.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd stick to distilled for a bicarb flush. It's hard to say because water purification plants very from place to place, but some of them use chlorine and other chemicals. The entire point of the bicarb flush is to neutralize the pH, so I wouldn't be comfortable with risking all the chemicals from the purification plant messing that up.
> Yeah, you'll want to flush really well with bicarb and then mix with distilled water, not deionized, and fill. Black is fairly sensitive to pH so you'll want to be careful with it.


Thanks for the reply! +rep


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Anybody here using the Ice Dragon Nano?
> 
> If there is someone could you plz upload some pictures of your system.
> i realy would like see the color in the tubes or somthing
> 
> Regards


----------



## Mulle1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*


Thanks so much,.

that looks amazing!









hope some more people will upload some more pic's


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> I just looked through that log, looks super sharp, but where the heck did he get that purple coolant? It's not even listed on their site!
> 
> I also managed to, while going through like 50 pages of this thread, find an example of yellow in a white case, that yellow is way more prominent then I thought. I like!
> 
> Edit; Unless that's the Raspberry Purple coolant, which if that's the case the picture on their product page does it no justice.


Snef used the Raspberry Purple coolant without modification


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Anybody here using the Ice Dragon Nano?
> 
> If there is someone could you plz upload some pictures of your system.
> i realy would like see the color in the tubes or somthing
> 
> Regards


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mulle1991*
> 
> Thanks so much,.
> 
> that looks amazing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope some more people will upload some more pic's


I would recommend you start a thread for that that is more appropriate than the Mayhems thread.


----------



## Divey

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=34079

Is this the only thing I need or do I need to mix something else with it. And will this be enough for 2 360 rads and 1 240 rads. This is my first loop so I want to make sure I have enough.

Thanks


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Divey*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=34079
> 
> Is this the only thing I need or do I need to mix something else with it. And will this be enough for 2 360 rads and 1 240 rads. This is my first loop so I want to make sure I have enough.
> 
> Thanks


You might need two. That's just a concentrate, you'll need to mix it with distilled water. You should be able to buy distilled water dirt cheap at your local grocery store.

It might look expansive but it lasts over two years, so it's a pretty good fiscal investment especially considering the anti corrosives.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Divey*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=34079
> 
> Is this the only thing I need or do I need to mix something else with it. And will this be enough for 2 360 rads and 1 240 rads. This is my first loop so I want to make sure I have enough.
> 
> Thanks


As mentioned, this is a concentrate so try to get an idea of how much water your loop holds. Each concentrate (250ml) can produce 1L (you add 750ml of distilled water) of the actual fluid that you use. Most loops usually require only 1, but if you have a large reservoir and a lot of tubing, you may possibly need two.

If you ever need to drain the Pastel fluid, make sure you save it in clean container and you can use it again as long as you pass the used Pastel through a coffee filter. You can see why it is somewhat "expensive" but due to the re-useability as well as the 2~3 year lifespan, it is very much worth it for watercooling enthusiasts.

I suggest that you only use distilled water for the first time you set up your first loop. That way, you can measure how much water you're using in your loop and you can even spill or have leaks without having to worry about damaging your components. Once you've completed your loop and leak tested it, you should drain it and fill it with the Pastel.

Also, make sure you buy Primochill Advanced LRT tubing, as most other brands will cloud up or "plasticize" very quickly.


----------



## 15goudreau

I agree with kokin, easiest way to find out how much liquid your loop needs is to fill it with distilled water, leak test, bleed all air and then drain it and measure. Seems like a process now but it can save you 20$


----------



## Divey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> As mentioned, this is a concentrate so try to get an idea of how much water your loop holds. Each concentrate (250ml) can produce 1L (you add 750ml of distilled water) of the actual fluid that you use. Most loops usually require only 1, but if you have a large reservoir and a lot of tubing, you may possibly need two.
> 
> If you ever need to drain the Pastel fluid, make sure you save it in clean container and you can use it again as long as you pass the used Pastel through a coffee filter. You can see why it is somewhat "expensive" but due to the re-useability as well as the 2~3 year lifespan, it is very much worth it for watercooling enthusiasts.
> 
> I suggest that you only use distilled water for the first time you set up your first loop. That way, you can measure how much water you're using in your loop and you can even spill or have leaks without having to worry about damaging your components. Once you've completed your loop and leak tested it, you should drain it and fill it with the Pastel.
> 
> Also, make sure you buy Primochill Advanced LRT tubing, as most other brands will cloud up or "plasticize" very quickly.


Thanks for the tip. I will do a test run with distilled first.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Anyone have pictures of their blocks post using Mayhem's?

Got a guy in another thread saying how bad Mayhem is for the waterblocks and pumps...


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Divey*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> As mentioned, this is a concentrate so try to get an idea of how much water your loop holds. Each concentrate (250ml) can produce 1L (you add 750ml of distilled water) of the actual fluid that you use. Most loops usually require only 1, but if you have a large reservoir and a lot of tubing, you may possibly need two.
> 
> If you ever need to drain the Pastel fluid, make sure you save it in clean container and you can use it again as long as you pass the used Pastel through a coffee filter. You can see why it is somewhat "expensive" but due to the re-useability as well as the 2~3 year lifespan, it is very much worth it for watercooling enthusiasts.
> 
> I suggest that you only use distilled water for the first time you set up your first loop. That way, you can measure how much water you're using in your loop and you can even spill or have leaks without having to worry about damaging your components. Once you've completed your loop and leak tested it, you should drain it and fill it with the Pastel.
> 
> Also, make sure you buy Primochill Advanced LRT tubing, as most other brands will cloud up or "plasticize" very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip. I will do a test run with distilled first.
Click to expand...

That's what I did, I bought 2 pastel white bottles ahead of time with all my other stuff bc I wasn't sure. I ran pure distilled in my loop with nothing else for a week, then drained, switched a few things up I didn't like and added the pastel white in. Leak tested a few hrs again just in case and it looks awesome and runs good. Turns out I only needed maybe 600ml total, left the rest in the empty distilled carton I used.

tappin from the neXus 5


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Anyone have pictures of their blocks post using Mayhem's?
> 
> Got a guy in another thread saying how bad Mayhem is for the waterblocks and pumps...


Lol, that guy is a moron. I've used nothing but mayhems for over two years now in every one of my systems. I've never had a single issue with any of them, including the Aurora line of coolants.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Anyone have pictures of their blocks post using Mayhem's?
> 
> Got a guy in another thread saying how bad Mayhem is for the waterblocks and pumps...


Only thing to look out for is aurora. Everything else is 100% ok in blocks. It was likely plasticizer gummed up in his blocks dye by mayhems.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Divey*
> 
> Thanks for the tip. I will do a test run with distilled first.


I filled with DW and ran for 5 days ..... one thing I discovered in this time frame was that some paint flakes had rubbed off a fitting or rad and lodged in the CPU water block..... if not for the clear fluid and clear block top, never would have seen this.

After 5 days I drained the loop into a gallon jug and poured from there into a 500ml measuring cup ..... emptied the cup 3 times and the last fill took it to 300ml, giving me a 1.8 liter total with I figured about 0.1 liter still left in the loop which didn't drain.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Anyone have pictures of their blocks post using Mayhem's?
> 
> Got a guy in another thread saying how bad Mayhem is for the water blocks and pumps...


I have gotten a lot of advice along the same line ..... 98% from people who never used it (the other 2% I assume were seeing plasticizer problems and blaming the coolant) .....always makes me think of this









https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bufTna0WArc

BTW, I'm a french model too


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Yea, I was hoping one of you guys had a pic so I could shove it in his face









I personally don't use Mayhem's only because distilled is so cheap (plus I don't know how much volume my loop holds yet), but I'm definitely thinking about it in the future.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Anyone have pictures of their blocks post using Mayhem's?
> 
> Got a guy in another thread saying how bad Mayhem is for the waterblocks and pumps...


Huh, well someone better tell my waterblocks and pump to start ****ing up, because they haven't had ANY problems with mayhems X1 after just under two years of use.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, that guy is a moron. I've used nothing but mayhems for over two years now in every one of my systems. I've never had a single issue with any of them, including the Aurora line of coolants.


This
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Only thing to look out for is aurora. Everything else is 100% ok in blocks. It was likely plasticizer gummed up in his blocks dye by mayhems.


And tjhis
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I have gotten a lot of advice along the same line ..... 98% from people who never used it (the other 2% I assume were seeing plasticizer problems and blaming the coolant) .....always makes me think of this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bufTna0WArc
> 
> BTW, I'm a french model too


Ah, salut le homme!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Yea, I was hoping one of you guys had a pic so I could shove it in his face
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I personally don't use Mayhem's only because distilled is so cheap (plus I don't know how much volume my loop holds yet), but I'm definitely thinking about it in the future.


Wish I did, but my most recent disassemble I brushed everything down with a toothbrush because there was plasticizers EVERYWHERE. Nothing from the Mayhems X1 that had been in there for upwards of two years though. No corrosion, no algae buildup, no gunking, nothing. Waterblock was crystal clear except for a few specs of black crap what I assume is junk from my rad, which I hadn't flushed. Pump impeller was coated with a thin white crust, but that was all plasticizers, all my nickle plated fittings, all my waterblocks, and all my rads had absolutely 0 corrosion, which after mixing nickle lots of nickle in that loop I was kind of expecting the fittings to die after a couple years, never happened.


----------



## joesaiditstrue

Mayhem's Pastel Red, it really pops... loving this color


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> Mayhem's Pastel Red, it really pops... loving this color


Oh god, that color is every EMTs worst nightmare.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Oh god, that color is every EMTs worst nightmare.

















I may be a sick person but I found this hilarious!


----------



## iamkraine

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> Mayhem's Pastel Red, it really pops... loving this color






Would love to see what you did with the wiring


----------



## pompss

this my second time i try aurora.
First time had very bad plasticizer after three months using aurora . tubing was really yellow and dirt.
In this thread some of you guys suggest to change tubing and use primochilll advance lrt.
I flush the loop 30 times with lemon juice and after with vinegar and at the last with Di water.brush all the water block to remove any dirt .

Bought a new aurora coolant and after three months of using it become a little yellow and fade. i still can see the aurora effect so not big deal for now. For sure is a lot less then the first tubing which was complete yellow dark.
I think this time is aurora that cause the yellow fading.
Let see whats happens in the next three months
here some pics


----------



## joesaiditstrue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> 
> Would love to see what you did with the wiring


some updated shots
http://www.overclock.net/t/940461/official-case-labs-owners-club/4800_100#post_21825329


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> this my second time i try aurora.
> First time had very bad plasticizer after three months using aurora . tubing was really yellow and dirt.
> In this thread some of you guys suggest to change tubing and use primochilll advance lrt.
> I flush the loop 30 times with lemon juice and after with vinegar and at the last with Di water.brush all the water block to remove any dirt .
> 
> Bought a new aurora coolant and after three months of using it become a little yellow and fade. i still can see the aurora effect so not big deal for now. For sure is a lot less then the first tubing which was complete yellow dark.
> I think this time is aurora that cause the yellow fading.
> Let see whats happens in the next three months
> here some pics
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


With using lemon juice and vinegar did you check the pH of you loop after the last flush? Or the pH level now? This would help since there are many aurora users on the thread, but this is the first time I have read about yellowing of advanced lrt with Aurora ( I could be wrong ).


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> this my second time i try aurora.
> First time had very bad plasticizer after three months using aurora . tubing was really yellow and dirt.
> In this thread some of you guys suggest to change tubing and use primochilll advance lrt.
> I flush the loop 30 times with lemon juice and after with vinegar and at the last with Di water.brush all the water block to remove any dirt .
> 
> Bought a new aurora coolant and after three months of using it become a little yellow and fade. i still can see the aurora effect so not big deal for now. For sure is a lot less then the first tubing which was complete yellow dark.
> I think this time is aurora that cause the yellow fading.
> Let see whats happens in the next three months
> here some pics


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> With using lemon juice and vinegar did you check the pH of you loop after the last flush? Or the pH level now? This would help since there are many aurora users on the thread, but this is the first time I have read about yellowing of advanced lrt with Aurora ( I could be wrong ).


Always flush with a bicarb after using lemon juice or vinegar. Those are both acidic and as such will wack out your pH, flushing with a bicarbinate will prevent your pH from screwing up the coolant.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> With using lemon juice and vinegar did you check the pH of you loop after the last flush? Or the pH level now? This would help since there are many aurora users on the thread, but this is the first
> time I have read about yellowing of advanced lrt with Aurora ( I could be wrong ).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Always flush with a bicarb after using lemon juice or vinegar. Those are both acidic and as such will wack out your pH, flushing with a bicarbinate will prevent your pH from screwing up the coolant.


i checked the ph lever and was normal around 7 an something before i flushed the loop.

right now i have no idea but i will check soon and let u know.

Hope this yellow thing doesn't get worst or become a plasticize issue.


----------



## Shoxyasoxoff

I'm not sure if this question has been asked but I have google searched and I just cannot find the answer...

I'm looking to build my first water cooled system and I really like the Pastel Mint Green but I would really love for it to be UV reactive. What would be the formula to do this? UV Yellow/Green dye? Or just UV Green?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## 15goudreau

I would believe the way to go about doing this is getting UV White pastel and mixing in Green dye until you get the color you want. Others might have better ideas though!


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I would believe the way to go about doing this is getting UV White pastel and mixing in Green dye until you get the color you want. Others might have better ideas though!


yeah i think this is the best way to do it, but keep in mind that pastel eats dye. it will take a lot more dye to change the color of pastel than it would just distilled.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoxyasoxoff*
> 
> I'm not sure if this question has been asked but I have google searched and I just cannot find the answer...
> 
> I'm looking to build my first water cooled system and I really like the Pastel Mint Green but I would really love for it to be UV reactive. What would be the formula to do this? UV Yellow/Green dye? Or just UV Green?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


You can do it with white and add the UV green dye as others have said. i personally would start with the mint green add the UV dye to that tho


----------



## Mayhem

mint green is slightly UV active already.


----------



## Shoxyasoxoff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> mint green is slightly UV active already.


Thanks for all the replies. So just to clarify... to increase its UV effect I would only need to add UV green dye?


----------



## Mayhem

Well add UV Yellow Green + Blue dye or UV Green how ever there will be a limit. If you after a realy excelnt UV kick ass colour then go for UV lime Yellow that is highly UV reactive under a "Good " UV light.


----------



## Joyride

Any update on the new pastel black color? I'm almost due for a water change and I'm leaning towards pastel black, just not sure if I should hold out a couple more months for the new version.


----------



## Mayhem

we are still working on black.







give us some time and we will have it sorted









you can always hit up Oil black for the moment.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

So I just thought this would be a neat little thing you could have your graphic design guys do... but is it possible to make like a virtual dye+tubing simulator?

Like choose your tubing color and your fluid, and then it will show what that combination looks like.

After seeing your test bench, it seems like it wouldn't be too terribly difficult. It'd be awesome for us consumers.


----------



## pcoutu17

Hey guys,

I'm looking at using pastel orange in my upcoming rebuild, but from the pictures I've been looking at it ranges from a light, almost peach color, to a darker kind of burnt orange. Is this just a result of using less vs more dye or adding other colors to enhance it? I'm hoping to get a pretty specific shade, so a bit of flexibility might work out well.


----------



## Mayhem

if you after a colour match, your better off making your own from Ice white + orange dye then you can colour match the fluid to your build.


----------



## Interstate

Been using pastel white for about 8 months now. Awesome stuff. I am getting the itch to add some color, just can't decide!


----------



## pcoutu17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> if you after a colour match, your better off making your own from Ice white + orange dye then you can colour match the fluid to your build.


Okay great! I'm assuming the amount of dye added to the white will determine the "orangeness"?


----------



## Mayhem

yes that would be correct. It may take more than 1 x 15ml dye though as pastel takes a heap load of dye to make a colour.


----------



## pcoutu17

Hmm, the excess dye won't have any adverse effects on the loop, as compared to just the plain pastel, will it?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcoutu17*
> 
> Hmm, the excess dye won't have any adverse effects on the loop, as compared to just the plain pastel, will it?


Performance wise, no. Things happening to your loop, no. Staining, possible.


----------



## Kokin

So I just got my new loop done and it measured out to be about 1040ml~1080ml. Would it be okay to offset the 1L rule of Pastel coolant by that extra 40~80ml?


----------



## 15goudreau

I would guess that would be fine. I think it's a fairly loose guideline. I'm pretty sure I added more water to mine because I wasn't able to drain everything when I leak tested..


----------



## Vapour1ze

Almost ready for some Mayhem's!!!







My 900d build is about done, just wish my stupid trident-x ram wasn't red!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vapour1ze*
> 
> just wish my stupid trident-x ram wasn't red!


Just remove the heat spreaders and paint them. You could even plasti-dip them so you can get them back to red one day.

You won't loose and considerable cooling performances so you dont have to worry about it.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

So question about the thermal pads. In Vapour1ze's picture, he has the long strip cut in two.

In my Heatkiller kit, they said to put one long strip down. Is there really going to be any thermal difference? The surface area is less, but the extra area isn't on a hot surface anyways.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> With using lemon juice and vinegar did you check the pH of you loop after the last flush? Or the pH level now? This would help since there are many aurora users on the thread, but this is the first time I have read about yellowing of advanced lrt with Aurora ( I could be wrong ).


Essentially, if a tube absorbs water it will be subject to staining from whatever is in that water....looking at the pics, whatever is turning yellow is doing so thru the whole thickness. Tygon routinely publishes MSDS data as this stuff as their primary customer base is food grade and laboratories. Their E-100 which behaves similar to LRT has a water absorption rate of 0.29% whereas their 2475 is 0.01% .... Would be nice to know the results on the ASTM Water Absorption test on the LRT as the value might provide a clue.


----------



## marshymellows

Whats the best kind of tube to use with mayhems pastel white if you dont want it do cloud fast?(hard tuve is not a option atm)


----------



## M3TAl

Everyone recommends Primochill *Advanced* LRT. Not the Pro.


----------



## marshymellows

Okay thanks


----------



## kizwan

Dear Mayhems,

What colours (dye) do I need to mixed to get blue berry colour, exactly like pastel blue berry?

To prevent from people accusing me for trolling, which I'm not, the issue is, Pastel Blue Berry is out of stock over here & restocking going to take months. I don't want to wait months & I don't want to pay expensive international shipping. So, I'm thinking using dye to make blue berry colour.

If I'm adding more distilled water to my already premixed Pastel Blue Berry, is that going to change the look of the blue berry colour? If yes, adding more dye going to help I imagine?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Dear Mayhems,
> 
> What colours (dye) do I need to mixed to get blue berry colour, exactly like pastel blue berry?
> 
> To prevent from people accusing me for trolling, which I'm not, the issue is, Pastel Blue Berry is out of stock over here & restocking going to take months. I don't want to wait months & I don't want to pay expensive international shipping. So, I'm thinking using dye to make blue berry colour.
> 
> If I'm adding more distilled water to my already premixed Pastel Blue Berry, is that going to change the look of the blue berry colour? If yes, adding more dye going to help I imagine?


Just so you know, if you add more distilled to your already properly mixed pastel, you will not only make the color more "watered" down, but the pastel will start to become transparent instead of opaque. So you would basically be turning it into a "cloudy" looking X-1.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Dear Mayhems,
> 
> What colours (dye) do I need to mixed to get blue berry colour, exactly like pastel blue berry?
> 
> To prevent from people accusing me for trolling, which I'm not, the issue is, Pastel Blue Berry is out of stock over here & restocking going to take months. I don't want to wait months & I don't want to pay expensive international shipping. So, I'm thinking using dye to make blue berry colour.
> 
> If I'm adding more distilled water to my already premixed Pastel Blue Berry, is that going to change the look of the blue berry colour? If yes, adding more dye going to help I imagine?


Watering it down is a bad idea, it's not a fluid it's a nano fluid meaning it has a bunch of little solid particles in it. Watering it down makes these fall out of suspension, and plop around your loop. Cyphons better at mixing colors than me, but I'd think just adding normal blue dye would do the trick, just slowly. I'd wait for Cyphons opinion as most of my experience is with X1.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Just so you know, if you add more distilled to your already properly mixed pastel, you will not only make the color more "watered" down, but the pastel will start to become transparent instead of opaque. So you would basically be turning it into a "cloudy" looking X-1.


Unless I'm mistaken X1 and Pastel use different bases even if you don't factor in the nano particles in the pastel.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Watering it down is a bad idea, it's not a fluid it's a nano fluid meaning it has a bunch of little solid particles in it. Watering it down makes these fall out of suspension, and plop around your loop. Cyphons better at mixing colors than me, but I'd think just adding normal blue dye would do the trick, just slowly. I'd wait for Cyphons opinion as most of my experience is with X1.
> *Unless I'm mistaken X1 and Pastel use different bases even if you don't factor in the nano particles in the pastel*.


I wasn't referring to its capabilities, I was commenting on its LOOKS, so he could get a mental picture of what I was referring to. Yes, X-1 and pastel are completely different liquids, BUT, putting to much extra water into pastel would make it LOOK like a cloudy X-1 like I said.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I wasn't referring to its capabilities, I was commenting on its LOOKS, so he could get a mental picture of what I was referring to. Yes, X-1 and pastel are completely different liquids, BUT, putting to much extra water into pastel would make it LOOK like a cloudy X-1 like I said.


This is making an incredible amount of sense to me.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> This is making an incredible amount of sense to me.


----------



## ole12

Hi guys.

I need a little help here to choose the optimal dye/coolant for my build.

I'm going for the red/black theme (the regular mainstream color), and the last missing piece is the red coolant.
The case I have is 900D, and is going to have a acrylic LED midplate in it, so its going to be quite bright inside.
So I need someting that is strong RED, nothing that looks orange, pink when in contact with bright light.

I was orginaly going to use the EK RED, since it has this clear RED color, but after some reading, Im not going for that.
So after coming to my senses, will the Mayhems pastel RED be a good choice? It looks kinda light RED / orange on some of the pics i've seen.
Will it stain? Just like X-1 blood RED / UV RED?

Can I just take the pasted RED, and mix in a few drops of RED dye? To make it more stronger if Im not pleased with the result?

And how long will the pastel last?

Currently Im using pasted Ice white (using it for about 1 year now), pretty happy with it, I even got 2 unused bottle left.

Oh, and the tubing Im gonna use is PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT.

Thanks,


----------



## 15goudreau

You can use Pastel red and add dye for sure. That's what I did. You could also add it to the pastel white you already own, it will just take a lot of dye to do it. Pastel lasts about 2-3 years before needing to be replaced all others last shorter than that. So if you want a solid looking coolant that you don't need to change frequently you want Pastel. I'm not sure about the Blood Red but as is the case with other people it is hard to tell exactly from pictures and they may be using more or less dye than you will be. If you think you can achieve the look with x-1 I would say go for it.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ole12*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> I need a little help here to choose the optimal dye/coolant for my build.
> 
> I'm going for the red/black theme (the regular mainstream color), and the last missing piece is the red coolant.
> The case I have is 900D, and is going to have a acrylic LED midplate in it, so its going to be quite bright inside.
> So I need someting that is strong RED, nothing that looks orange, pink when in contact with bright light.
> 
> I was orginaly going to use the EK RED, since it has this clear RED color, but after some reading, Im not going for that.
> So after coming to my senses, will the Mayhems pastel RED be a good choice? It looks kinda light RED / orange on some of the pics i've seen.
> Will it stain? Just like X-1 blood RED / UV RED?
> 
> Can I just take the pasted RED, and mix in a few drops of RED dye? To make it more stronger if Im not pleased with the result?
> 
> And how long will the pastel last?
> 
> Currently Im using pasted Ice white (using it for about 1 year now), pretty happy with it, I even got 2 unused bottle left.
> 
> Oh, and the tubing Im gonna use is PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT.
> 
> Thanks,


If you want a transparent fluid X1 is great, and they have blood red. If you want an opaque coolant, like pastel, get white pastel, or red pastel, and red and deep blue dye. (Get the red dye even if you get red pastel)

Dye it to the tone of red you want*, not the darkness you want but the tone*. Then _slowly_ add deep blue dye to darken it up.


----------



## ole12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> You can use Pastel red and add dye for sure. That's what I did. You could also add it to the pastel white you already own, it will just take a lot of dye to do it. Pastel lasts about 2-3 years before needing to be replaced all others last shorter than that. So if you want a solid looking coolant that you don't need to change frequently you want Pastel. I'm not sure about the Blood Red but as is the case with other people it is hard to tell exactly from pictures and they may be using more or less dye than you will be. If you think you can achieve the look with x-1 I would say go for it.


Do you have any pictures of the red pastel with red dye?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If you want a transparent fluid X1 is great, and they have blood red. If you want an opaque coolant, like pastel, get white pastel, or red pastel, and red and deep blue dye. (Get the red dye even if you get red pastel)
> 
> Dye it to the tone of red you want*, not the darkness you want but the tone*. Then _slowly_ add deep blue dye to darken it up.


Thanks for the answer guys, but im still not quite sure. I really love the X1 blood red, but I dont want to change the tubing, clean the blocks every other month. I want something that could just need to change once or twice a year.
I mean, will the pastel red stain?, and if I a some dye in it, will it stain just as a X1 blood red?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ole12*
> 
> Do you have any pictures of the red pastel with red dye?
> Thanks for the answer guys, but im still not quite sure. I really love the X1 blood red, but I dont want to change the tubing, clean the blocks every other month. I want something that could just need to change once or twice a year.
> I mean, will the pastel red stain?, and if I a some dye in it, will it stain just as a X1 blood red?


Pastel is white, period. It's a nano fluid, so the liquid itself is clear, but it has a ton of little particles, like sand except instead of silicon-dioxide(sand) it's aluminum oxide nano powders, and stuff like that. Don't misunderstand like a lot of people do saying nanofluids are bad because as with everything to ever exists, there are good quality ones and bad quality ones. The red pastel is white, the blue pastel is white, the black pastel is white, the everything pastel starts being white. It gets it's color from dye.

Dyes will dye things, it's what they do.


----------



## Mayhem

Due to the demands of Mayhems and the rate at which we are growing Mayhems is expanding "again". We have just placed an order for two bottle filling machines Whoot .. Oh yeh ...






























We should in theory be able to produce 2,400 x 1 ltr bottles an hour







how ever i dont think we can cap at that rate lol.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Due to the demands of Mayhems and the rate at which we are growing Mayhems is expanding "again". We have just placed an order for two bottle filling machines Whoot .. Oh yeh ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We should in theory be able to produce *2,400 x 1 ltr bottles an hour*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how ever i dont think we can cap at that rate lol.


GOOD GOD!

Pretty awesome news!


----------



## Vapour1ze

LOL!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Due to the demands of Mayhems and the rate at which we are growing Mayhems is expanding "again". We have just placed an order for two bottle filling machines Whoot .. Oh yeh ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We should in theory be able to produce 2,400 x 1 ltr bottles an hour
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how ever i dont think we can cap at that rate lol.












I wish you guys the best for expanding your product line!


----------



## pcoutu17

Sorry for all the questions guys, but I'm just trying to get what I want without wasting too much money on experimentation.

After doing a little bit of reading, it seems the difference between just adding dyes to distilled water/other clear fluids results in more of a transparent color, whereas mixing them with pastel white retains the opaque, more substantial looking colors. Is this a correct assessment?

If I'm looking for a specific shade of orange, should I use red and yellow dyes in pastel white, or try using varying amounts of the orange dye? I'm assuming these dyes follow similar color mixing rules as paints and such.

Thanks for all of the help so far!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Pastel is white, period. It's a nano fluid, so the liquid itself is clear, but it has a ton of little particles, like sand except instead of silicon-dioxide(sand) it's aluminum oxide nano powders, and stuff like that. Don't misunderstand like a lot of people do saying nanofluids are bad because as with everything to ever exists, there are good quality ones and bad quality ones. The red pastel is white, the blue pastel is white, the black pastel is white, the everything pastel starts being white. It gets it's color from dye.
> 
> Dyes will dye things, it's what they do.


In my case, I can make Pastel Blue Berry from Pastel Ice White + blue dye?


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> In my case, I can make Pastel Blue Berry from Pastel Ice White + blue dye?


This is what I did, check out my computer pictures in my sig.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcoutu17*
> 
> Sorry for all the questions guys, but I'm just trying to get what I want without wasting too much money on experimentation.
> 
> After doing a little bit of reading, it seems the difference between just adding dyes to distilled water/other clear fluids results in more of a transparent color, whereas mixing them with pastel white retains the opaque, more substantial looking colors. Is this a correct assessment?
> 
> If I'm looking for a specific shade of orange, should I use red and yellow dyes in pastel white, or try using varying amounts of the orange dye? I'm assuming these dyes follow similar color mixing rules as paints and such.
> 
> Thanks for all of the help so far!


Pastel is opaque while x1 is clear. So if you want a solid color you need pastel white + dye. Or pastel near any other colour you are trying to replicate + dye.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ole12*
> 
> Do you have any pictures of the red pastel with red dye?


I used it with blue not red, sorry for the confusion. There are some pictures of my computer of my sig that you can check out for the process.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Whats the best kind of tube to use with mayhems pastel white if you dont want it do cloud fast?(hard tuve is not a option atm)


Most here like the PT Adavanced LRT, personally I prefer the Tygon 2475 tho don't use it with tight bends. It has the highest resistance to fluid absorption / staining of any tube that I have found. Testing labs buy the stuff in 100' spools.

..... and while many types of tubing say "Plasticizer Free" , what they really mean is that it is a "formulation that contains non-DEHP [Bis (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate] plasticizers", the 2475 is totally free of any kind of plasticizer but since that's what makes tube very soft and flexible, the lack of plasticizer comes at a cost of flexibility. The PC stuff is very soft...the 2475 is hard ..... fits into the "beat with a rubber hose" category







....

I use hard acrylic but prefer the 2475 for vibration isolation at pumps.....it does have a very slight haze to it tho.....not noticeable w/ pastels but perhaps you would notice it with a light colored DW / light color mix.....If your bends are tighter than what would equate to 3" between 180 degree bend, I would not consider it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Due to the demands of Mayhems and the rate at which we are growing Mayhems is expanding "again". We have just placed an order for two bottle filling machines Whoot .. Oh yeh ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We should in theory be able to produce 2,400 x 1 ltr bottles an hour
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how ever i dont think we can cap at that rate lol.


40 years ago i worked a bottling line making insecticides ..... haven't been bitten by a bug since







..... I mixed the batch (1500 gallons) the machine filled the bottles and put on the caps. and my job at that point was to clear jams and stop line if necessary....humans (well almost .... other college kids) slid on the shrink wrap tho which was the limiting factor in production.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh we haven't got a capper so the only thing automated will be the bottle filling. The mixing and everything else such as labeling is still going to be human done. How ever depending on what we sell and how we expand will depend oh how we progress.







I used to work in a ice cream factory many years ago which was a tedious job how ever when your in charge and your also doing most of the work it feels different and you enjoy what you do







.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh we haven't got a capper so the only thing automated will be the bottle filling. The mixing and everything else such as labeling is still going to be human done. How ever depending on what we sell and how we expand will depend oh how we progress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to work in a ice cream factory many years ago which was a tedious job how ever when your in charge and your also doing most of the work it feels different and you enjoy what you do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That even works on kids .









That's part of the wisdom I pass onto new parents .... wanna get ya kid to clean his room ? Don't nag them to do that....give them a choice ..... clean ya room or do the dishes ..... being able to be involved in ten decision making progress makes the job go much faster and is more enjoyable cause they got to choose which one did.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Mayhem.

I had some blue pastel leak on my motherboard yesterday.. It also has blue dye in it. I did my best to get it all with a paper towel but I assume some pooled under things. Everything was off when this happen and I've let it dry for a few days. What do you think the odds are of everything being wrecked. If it was just distilled I wouldn't be worried but I'm curious what you think the pastel + dye could do if it happen to dry on a board.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Mayhem.
> 
> I had some blue pastel leak on my motherboard yesterday.. It also has blue dye in it. I did my best to get it all with a paper towel but I assume some pooled under things. Everything was off when this happen and I've let it dry for a few days. What do you think the odds are of everything being wrecked. If it was just distilled I wouldn't be worried but I'm curious what you think the pastel + dye could do if it happen to dry on a board.


if the system was off and you cleaned up any that was still on the board you will probably be fine. just make sure there is no residue or anything left behind.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Mayhem.
> 
> I had some blue pastel leak on my motherboard yesterday.. It also has blue dye in it. I did my best to get it all with a paper towel but I assume some pooled under things. Everything was off when this happen and I've let it dry for a few days. What do you think the odds are of everything being wrecked. If it was just distilled I wouldn't be worried but I'm curious what you think the pastel + dye could do if it happen to dry on a board.


I've had some spill before and didn't have any issues. Just try to clean it the best your can


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Mayhem.
> 
> I had some blue pastel leak on my motherboard yesterday.. It also has blue dye in it. I did my best to get it all with a paper towel but I assume some pooled under things. Everything was off when this happen and I've let it dry for a few days. What do you think the odds are of everything being wrecked. If it was just distilled I wouldn't be worried but I'm curious what you think the pastel + dye could do if it happen to dry on a board.


Plug it in and try it after you've let it dry. I'd say if you didn't smell any burning then you have pretty good odds of it working. Most motherboards have inbuilt failsafes to shut it off when something malfunctions, problem is it only takes a fraction of a millisecond for something to fry. You'd smell it if it fried though.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Mayhem.
> 
> I had some blue pastel leak on my motherboard yesterday.. It also has blue dye in it. I did my best to get it all with a paper towel but I assume some pooled under things. Everything was off when this happen and I've let it dry for a few days. What do you think the odds are of everything being wrecked. If it was just distilled I wouldn't be worried but I'm curious what you think the pastel + dye could do if it happen to dry on a board.


I'm pretty sure your motherboard is ok. I spilled some pastel on my GPU last month & some got under the memory modules. I use paper towels & hair dryer to clean & dry it as best as I can. I just leave it to dry for 24 hours in warm place. It boot & working without any problem after that.


----------



## joesaiditstrue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> if the system was off and you cleaned up any that was still on the board you will probably be fine. just make sure there is no residue or anything left behind.


as long as it's dried there won't be any issues

just keep the board in a dry place for 24-48 hours

there's a guy on here who washes his hardware in soap and water, lol


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> as long as it's dried there won't be any issues
> 
> just keep the board in a dry place for 24-48 hours
> 
> *there's a guy on here who washes his hardware in soap and water, lol*


makes sense if you don't think about it


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Putting keyboards and other items in dishwasher is common practice..... w/ 3 kids I ahve removed quite my share of fruit juice, milk shakes and jelly .

As long as water can't get inside something where it couldn't get out or dry out then all ay gotta do is wait for it to dry. I don't know that soap adds anything, I just used warm water....of course now w/ LCD equipped KBs, I don't do it on those.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2183738_clean-keyboard-dishwasher.html'
http://www.wikihow.com/Clean-a-Keyboard-in-a-Dishwasher
http://www.instructables.com/id/Clean-your-Keyboard-in-the-Dishwasher/


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> makes sense if you don't think about it


this cracked me up. thanks.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> as long as it's dried there won't be any issues
> 
> just keep the board in a dry place for 24-48 hours
> 
> there's a guy on here who washes his hardware in soap and water, lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> makes sense if you don't think about it


Soap and water is fine for your circuits as long as they aren't turned on. In fact, after doing a big soldering job, I often will scrub the pcbs to remove excess flux. Just have to make sure that all the liquid is dried up/evaporated before turning it on.

A toothbrush with warm water is fine to scrub. I actually tend to prefer alcohol tho because it evaporates much faster
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Putting keyboards and other items in dishwasher is common practice..... w/ 3 kids I ahve removed quite my share of fruit juice, milk shakes and jelly .
> 
> As long as water can't get inside something where it couldn't get out or dry out then all ay gotta do is wait for it to dry. I don't know that soap adds anything, I just used warm water....of course now w/ LCD equipped KBs, I don't do it on those.
> 
> http://www.ehow.com/how_2183738_clean-keyboard-dishwasher.html'
> http://www.wikihow.com/Clean-a-Keyboard-in-a-Dishwasher
> http://www.instructables.com/id/Clean-your-Keyboard-in-the-Dishwasher/


Yeah, an LCD may have issues with a dishwasher lol


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Soap and water is fine for your circuits as long as they aren't turned on. In fact, after doing a big soldering job, I often will scrub the pcbs to remove excess flux. Just have to make sure that all the liquid is dried up/evaporated before turning it on.
> 
> A toothbrush with warm water is fine to scrub. I actually tend to prefer alcohol tho because it evaporates much faster
> Yeah, an LCD may have issues with a dishwasher lol


Yes, as it's common practice to "wash" circuit boards several times during the manufacturing process, when people roll their eyes at what is a standard industry practice, that is something I in turn can find humor in as early in my career I remember having the same reaction during a circuit board factory tour. I mean we all accept the SOP of testing our loops with power off so why bother if water touching a board even with power off is instant failure ? Yet, even here we see often enough veteran water coolers expressing great surprise that nothing blew up after they had a leak even when system was not running. Even if running, if ya MoBo is vertical, PSU shrouded and ya put a nickel under the ya case feet on the side with the MoBo mounting tray (so any drips on GFX cards flow away from MoBo) , I'd say ya chances are better than 75% you will survive most minor leaks without significant damage.

In the early 80s my firm was hired to design a pretreatment system for a local firm to treat their wash water to levels that would be acceptable for disposal to the sewerage collection system. The wash water including a mix of diluted acidic and base components from the "printing / etching" process as well as solder / flux from the final "pre-packaging" wash .... lead from the solder in those days was the biggest issue as treatment limitations were / are very strict. I remember walking thru the plant and I admit it did seem kinda odd seeing production lines with boards going thru several baths and drying cycles thru the various stages of production.

Here's an example of what we had to deal with.

http://www.pcbfab.com/rinse-water-quality/

More on cleaning boards

http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/PCB_Cleaning_101

As you said water is generally only a danger to a component when it has electric running thru it which could cause shorts .... and that is only **if** the water contains an electrolyte to carry the current. Of course LCDs, HDs and other items that water could get in but not easily escape are problematic .... materials which absorb water are also a no-no i.e. coated cardboard / paper based transformers, non watertight crystals, certain potentiometers etc.


----------



## M4ng03z

Please forgive me if this has been answered before, but I couldn't find it by searching and I was not about to read 500+ pages to _maybe_ find an answer.

I just bought some Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry concentrate and the bottle says I need to add DI water.
Is distilled water fine or do I need to use De-Ionized water if I can get access to it?

Thanks.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M4ng03z*
> 
> Please forgive me if this has been answered before, but I couldn't find it by searching and I was not about to read 500+ pages to _maybe_ find an answer.
> 
> I just bought some Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry concentrate and the bottle says I need to add DI water.
> Is distilled water fine or do I need to use De-Ionized water if I can get access to it?
> 
> Thanks.


Distilled water is fine, just make sure to mix the correct ratio.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ice white - is just white
> UV White - is White + UV clear blue


How much UV clear blue is required for a good reaction?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> How much UV clear blue is required for a good reaction?


LOTS! Pastel is just a bunch of white nanoparticles that make it opaque white. My guess would be anywhere from 10ml - 15ml per liter of pastel.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> LOTS! Pastel is just a bunch of white nanoparticles that make it opaque white. My guess would be anywhere from 10ml - 15ml per liter of pastel.


Thanks, +Rep

I already have 2 bottles of pastel white and 15ml UV CB so I may just give it a try when I'm ready to redo my loop.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M4ng03z*
> 
> Please forgive me if this has been answered before, but I couldn't find it by searching and I was not about to read 500+ pages to _maybe_ find an answer.
> 
> I just bought some Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry concentrate and the bottle says I need to add DI water.
> Is distilled water fine or do I need to use De-Ionized water if I can get access to it?
> 
> Thanks.


Either is fine, but I think most use Distilled water. I'll be using Distilled once I get the time to drain my loop and add in the Mayhem's Ice White.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

maybe some of you know, or maybe mayhem could help me out. im about purchase some coolant and im interested in Tharsis Red Aurora, but i would like the new and improved kind if i could get it. do any of you guys know if frozencpu or performance pc has the newer stuff going out yet? thanks in advance


----------



## M4ng03z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Either is fine, but I think most use Distilled water. I'll be using Distilled once I get the time to drain my loop and add in the Mayhem's Ice White.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiNoDuKEz*
> 
> Distilled water is fine, just make sure to mix the correct ratio.


Thanks guys. I figured as much, but since it specified DI on the bottle, I thought I should ask. Distilled is a lot easier to get than DI for most people.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M4ng03z*
> 
> Please forgive me if this has been answered before, but I couldn't find it by searching and I was not about to read 500+ pages to _maybe_ find an answer.
> 
> I just bought some Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry concentrate and the bottle says I need to add DI water.
> Is distilled water fine or do I need to use De-Ionized water if I can get access to it?
> 
> Thanks.


Yes, it gets asked every cupla pages.

http://www.distilleddeionizedwater.com/deionized-water-vs-distilled-water/
http://www.caslab.com/News/deionized-vs-distilled.html

Distilled water can contain organics (volatile chemicals, oils and anything that boils at less than 212F) and even small amounts of plasticizers and other compounds that leach out of their plastic containers.


----------



## ispure08

does anybody know why my Mayhem Orange Pastel turns into a shady Peach at night? its weird it only shows true orange when I have sun pointing directly into it.


----------



## Joyride

I was too impulsive to wait for the new version of Pastel Black so I went and got the current version anyways. Added a Monsoon dual bay reservoir. LEDs don't show through but I like the slick look of the front. Haven't quite figured out if I'm going to get a red or white LED strip to show off the components though.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joyride*
> 
> I was too impulsive to wait for the new version of Pastel Black so I went and got the current version anyways. Added a Monsoon dual bay reservoir. LEDs don't show through but I like the slick look of the front. Haven't quite figured out if I'm going to get a red or white LED strip to show off the components though.


Lookin' slick.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joyride*
> 
> I was too impulsive to wait for the new version of Pastel Black so I went and got the current version anyways. Added a Monsoon dual bay reservoir. LEDs don't show through but I like the slick look of the front. Haven't quite figured out if I'm going to get a red or white LED strip to show off the components though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Have you thought about cathodes? I personally think they light up a case more evenly than LEDs


----------



## Joyride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Have you thought about cathodes? I personally think they light up a case more evenly than LEDs


I've used UV cathodes before and I didn't think they did a good job and I hate trying to fit the converter box in the back of the case. I suppose I'll do some research and see what kind of red cathode or LED looks better.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Have you thought about cathodes? I personally think they light up a case more evenly than LEDs


but then you gotta deal with their bulky converters =\


----------



## Neo Zuko

So they have a club for everything lol. I was going to get X1 and some kind of light easy to maintain dye. I like red. Guess I better sub this forum too.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> but then you gotta deal with their bulky converters =\


BIGGER CASE!!! but really







I just adhered them to the back here's a pic. Super easy and simple



excuse my cables.... hehe MDPC can't get here fast enough


----------



## szeged

my case cant get much bigger and i still find them bulky


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> my case cant get much bigger and i still find them bulky


spraypaint them or something then!!! you can get invertless ones too but idk how good they are... I didn't find too much hassle. I just soldered some longer cables on to them and problem solved!


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> spraypaint them or something then!!! you can get invertless ones too but idk how good they are... I didn't find too much hassle. I just soldered some longer cables on to them and problem solved!


I just detatch the casing on the inverters







easier to hide the pcb and not the whole plastic shroud


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> maybe some of you know, or maybe mayhem could help me out. im about purchase some coolant and im interested in Tharsis Red Aurora, but i would like the new and improved kind if i could get it. do any of you guys know if frozencpu or performance pc has the newer stuff going out yet? thanks in advance


I know I answered this in another thread, but just to put it here for someone else to find:

You will probably need to contact the retailer to find out when they are expecting stock in the new version as Mayhem is slipstreaming it in...basically, new orders placed by the retailers will get the new version. Hard to know exactly what inventory the retailers have and what their ordering plans are, so again, I'd say just give them a call and ask if they have the new version or know when they expect to get it.


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joyride*
> 
> I was too impulsive to wait for the new version of Pastel Black so I went and got the current version anyways. Added a Monsoon dual bay reservoir. LEDs don't show through but I like the slick look of the front. Haven't quite figured out if I'm going to get a red or white LED strip to show off the components though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: warning! Spoiler Alert


I recently bought 5m of white smd (3528) led stripping and some red. If you get stripping get the 3528 leds as opposed to the common 5050 leds (larger 5mm smd led vs the 3528 3mm) and more even glow.

I bought the stripping which can be cut every 3rd led and soldered on some 3pin fan connectors and am running them off my lamptron. I did have the corsair lighting and cooling kit which used the 5050 smd leds (i had no idea there was a difference at the time) and i am much happier now. Also manual control is nice.

I will be putting up a basic guide in the coming week in the corsair 750d owners club with photos on how to do it too if youre interested.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> I just detatch the casing on the inverters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> easier to hide the pcb and not the whole plastic shroud


I did pop them open to get a look at what the PCB was doing but...idk... I think I'll just paint them black and forget about them







. I don't spend a lot of time looking at my cables behind my mobo anyways so I think that will work out nicely. At least for when it is picture time


----------



## M4ng03z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I don't spend a lot of time looking at my cables behind my mobo anyways


^^^this.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Showed my GF the aurora coolants and she want's me to use it when I water cool her setup, lol I got her hooked


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Showed my GF the aurora coolants and she want's me to use it when I water cool her setup, lol I got her hooked


Be sure to pick all the right parts for Aurora.







Take a look at the Mayhems Aurora Wiki, and don't get anything that's not on the tested/working parts. Aurora isn't a standard use coolant, it's a specialty coolant.


----------



## DarthBaggins

From looking its compatible with my current CPU block, but yeah don't see my Swiftech rads on the tested list so might just design hers with compatibility in mind and use a x1/pastel on mine to play it safe.


----------



## SavellM

Hi guys.

I need a bit of help.

I bought some Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry.

It looks nice enough, but its not deep blue enough.

So a few questions:
1) Can I add some more Mayhems Dye Blue to make it a little darker?

2) Could I instead of using Mayhems Dye Blue use Mayhems X1 - UV Blue Concentrate to give it some UV reflection maybe to give it more UV use extra Mayhems X1 - UV Clear/Blue Concentrate.
Just so I don't have to keep going blue just to get UV. But with the Clear/Blue will add in more UV light?

3) I was using ICE dragon on its own before but there started to get some build-up of muck, so now with my new cleaned out loop I was wondering if I needed anything extra other than the Pastel Blue?
3a) I was thinking of adding in a few drops of Mayhems Biocide, would this be good with the Pastel?
3b) Would/Should I also use a Kill Coil?

Thanks for any insight


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> I need a bit of help.
> 
> I bought some Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry.
> 
> It looks nice enough, but its not deep blue enough.
> 
> So a few questions:
> 1) Can I add some more Mayhems Dye Blue to make it a little darker?
> 
> 2) Could I instead of using Mayhems Dye Blue use Mayhems X1 - UV Blue Concentrate to give it some UV reflection maybe to give it more UV use extra Mayhems X1 - UV Clear/Blue Concentrate.
> Just so I don't have to keep going blue just to get UV. But with the Clear/Blue will add in more UV light?
> 
> 3) I was using ICE dragon on its own before but there started to get some build-up of muck, so now with my new cleaned out loop I was wondering if I needed anything extra other than the Pastel Blue?
> 3a) I was thinking of adding in a few drops of Mayhems Biocide, would this be good with the Pastel?
> 3b) Would/Should I also use a Kill Coil?
> 
> Thanks for any insight


1) Yes you can add dark blue to make it darker.

2) It will take a lot of UV blue concentrate to get it to be UV reactive. Way to go about this would be getting the UV white pastel and adding blue dye after the fact to get the color scheme you want right.

3) There is a good chance the ice dragon wasn't what was clogged in your blocks and it was plasticizer from you tubes. You should be using Primochill ADVANCED LRT. We have the best results with that tubing.
3a) Don't need biocide in Pastel as it comes with it
3b) Don't need a kill coil as that is a natural biocide and with 3a it already contains that stuff along with corrosive inhibitors. So you should be good to go with just distilled/DI water and pastel!


----------



## SavellM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> 1) Yes you can add dark blue to make it darker.
> 
> 2) It will take a lot of UV blue concentrate to get it to be UV reactive. Way to go about this would be getting the UV white pastel and adding blue dye after the fact to get the color scheme you want right.
> 
> 3) There is a good chance the ice dragon wasn't what was clogged in your blocks and it was plasticizer from you tubes. You should be using Primochill ADVANCED LRT. We have the best results with that tubing.
> 3a) Don't need biocide in Pastel as it comes with it
> 3b) Don't need a kill coil as that is a natural biocide and with 3a it already contains that stuff along with corrosive inhibitors. So you should be good to go with just distilled/DI water and pastel!


Awesome thanks for your info.

I thought that was correct with point no3.
I am using hard acrylic tubing, but wasn't properly flushed.

In terms of 1/2, I already have the blue pastel in.
I don't mind using a lot of dye if it will produce slightly darker results.

Also would it eventually go UV with a lot of the Clear/Blue UV dye?


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Awesome thanks for your info.
> 
> I thought that was correct with point no3.
> I am using hard acrylic tubing, but wasn't properly flushed.
> 
> In terms of 1/2, I already have the blue pastel in.
> I don't mind using a lot of dye if it will produce slightly darker results.
> 
> Also would it eventually go UV with a lot of the Clear/Blue UV dye?


It should, but just like adding blue dye to pastel white to get it darker it takes bottles. Also with UV reactive dye you must make sure your PH levels are within the tolerable range, else it will degrade and you will be adding more and more dye every few months.

Here is a picture I took. It is actually slightly darker than the picture shows. I used white pastel with 2 bottles of blue dye and got this


----------



## SavellM

Awesome thanks man.

You have worried me with the PH levels








Is it worth it now?
Or will my levels go out of whack?


----------



## 15goudreau

You have to check your pH before you add the UV dye. It should be around 7. This is usually an issue with new radiators that haven't been flushed properly before being inserted in a loop. Normally we flush out the flux with hot water and then hot DI/distilled water is mixed with baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and rinsed through the radiators. If you have already done that then no issues should occur. You can also pick up a cheap pH tester from any pool supply store.







(or amazon)


----------



## SavellM

Ah awesome...

Thanks bud, your a legend!


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Ah awesome...
> 
> Thanks bud, your a legend!


Happy to help


----------



## SavellM

Last question for you









X1 Dye or normal Dye?


----------



## 15goudreau

Normal dye as in food colouring? I used whatever Mayhem's deep blue or something like that is. I'll get a link

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18041/ex-liq-358/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Dark_Blue.html?tl=g30c337s1809

Is what I bought


----------



## SavellM

HAHA no not food dye.

Mayhems have regular Dye and now also X1 Dye.

But I have answered my own question.
On the X1 it says do not use with Aurora, Pastel or X1.

So I guess im sticking to the dye


----------



## DarthBaggins

So since I'm already running DI water all I really need to do is add in an x1 dye or pastel to add a safe color to my loop (and running advanced lrt)?


----------



## 15goudreau

If you use pastel you need to mix according to the mixing directions 250ml pastel to every 750 ml water

x1 dye you just add as you see fit


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ok cool, yeah figured there would be a mixing ratio on the pastel since it's a coolant concentrate not a dye


----------



## 15goudreau

Post lots of pictures when it's done!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> X1 Dye or normal Dye?


X1 Dye????

Where did you see or heard that.

Last I know, there's no such thing.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> X1 Dye????
> 
> Where did you see or heard that.
> 
> Last I know, there's no such thing.


I believe you're right. Upon further inspection it would seem you add dye to x-1


----------



## ZytheEKS

X1 is not a dye, it is a concentrate and needs to be mixed properly. A single bottle of X1 will make 1 liters of coolant. Colored X1 is nothing more than X1 Clear with mayhems dyes already in it. Mixing X1 isn't as finicky as Pastel, but you still shouldn't just drop two bottles of concentrate in the loop because you THINK you have about 2 liters in there. Your best route is to drain the loop into a measuring cup, mix more X1 than you need in an appropriate fashion, refill and put the rest in an opaque container in a cool dark room, like a closet. (Do not store in a garage, temps fluctuate in a garage too much)


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> X1 is not a dye, it is a concentrate and needs to be mixed properly. A single bottle of X1 will make 1 liters of coolant. Colored X1 is nothing more than X1 Clear with mayhems dyes already in it. Mixing X1 isn't as finicky as Pastel, but you still shouldn't just drop two bottles of concentrate in the loop because you THINK you have about 2 liters in there. Your best route is to drain the loop into a measuring cup, mix more X1 than you need in an appropriate fashion, refill and put the rest in an opaque container in a cool dark room, like a closet. (Do not store in a garage, temps fluctuate in a garage too much)


Uh Zythe, if I'm not mistaken, a bottle of X1 concentrate makes 2 liters of coolant.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Uh Zyrhe, if I'm not mistaken, a bottle of X1 concentrate makes 2 liters of coolant.


Right, that's my bad. One bottle to 1.75l of distilled, makes 2 liters of coolant. MY BAD.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Right, that's my bad. One bottle to 1.75ml of coolant, makes 2 liters. MY BAD.










all good!!


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Right, that's my bad. One bottle to *1.75L* of coolant, makes 2 liters. MY BAD.


Fixed that for you


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanblandford*
> 
> Fixed that for you


edited









Dear lord, my mind is just all over the place today.


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21022/ex-pmp-251/EK_D5_X-RES_Top_100_w_D5_Vario_Pump_EK-D5_Vario_X-RES_100_incl_pump.html?tl=g30c107s152

Using this pump/res combo with Mayhems Pastel, do i remove the foam material inside the res or leave it there?


----------



## Mayhem

Right were working on some new product descriptions of all our products. Once we've compiled all the information together we will add the information to all our site and on here.

So the what is the information were going to add.

1) Light fastness, now this normally is information used on dyes that tell how "Light Fast" the dye is when it is placed in the sun. We will update this information on our products letting you know how light fast the colours are in a loop exposed to normal light and UV light. We will grade it 1 to 5. 1 being bad 5 being excellent.

This will help people understand how bright the colour will stay over a period of time.

2) PH range. We will let everyone know what the ph range of each dye / product is so that if you say use a rad that changes the ph we will let you know what the max of each dye or product is. The lesser the PH range the more sensitive the product will be to change.

We think this information will be good for all users how ever it will take some time to compile all this information.


----------



## 15goudreau

Awesome Mayhem that's just absolutely fantastic!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Right were working on some new product descriptions of all our products. Once we've compiled all the information together we will add the information to all our site and on here.
> 
> So the what is the information were going to add.
> 
> 1) Light fastness, now this normally is information used on dyes that tell how "Light Fast" the dye is when it is placed in the sun. We will update this information on our products letting you know how light fast the colours are in a loop exposed to normal light and UV light. We will grade it 1 to 5. 1 being bad 5 being excellent.
> 
> This will help people understand how bright the colour will stay over a period of time.
> 
> 2) PH range. We will let everyone know what the ph range of each dye / product is so that if you say use a rad that changes the ph we will let you know what the max of each dye or product is. The lesser the PH range the more sensitive the product will be to change.
> 
> We think this information will be good for all users how ever it will take some time to compile all this information.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Awesome Mayhem that's just absolutely fantastic!


Awesome, now when I'm devising poisons I can know how to dye it the same color as a fancy dr, I mean I can plan my loop better.


----------



## akira749

Hi!

Quick question...

If I want to achieve this color


What dye would I have to add to *Pastel Pink* ( I wish I could say *Gemini Pink* but a quad 360 rad setup is not the best deal for Aurora







) to match it?

Thanks!!


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel Purple will be close. Just add a touch more purple.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Right were working on some new product descriptions of all our products. Once we've compiled all the information together we will add the information to all our site and on here.
> 
> So the what is the information were going to add.
> 
> 1) Light fastness, now this normally is information used on dyes that tell how "Light Fast" the dye is when it is placed in the sun. We will update this information on our products letting you know how light fast the colours are in a loop exposed to normal light and UV light. We will grade it 1 to 5. 1 being bad 5 being excellent.
> 
> This will help people understand how bright the colour will stay over a period of time.
> 
> 2) PH range. We will let everyone know what the ph range of each dye / product is so that if you say use a rad that changes the ph we will let you know what the max of each dye or product is. The lesser the PH range the more sensitive the product will be to change.
> 
> We think this information will be good for all users how ever it will take some time to compile all this information.


Very nice. Will this information be included on the bottle labels as well?


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

For acrylic and Primochill Advanced LRT usage the XT-1 would be ok? Or should I buy the X1? I want know this because the XT-1 is better performer and much cheaper than the X1...
Quote:


> Monsoon Hardline tubes warranty terms:
> 
> Guaranteed against manufacturing defects for one (1) full year from your date of purchase. *This warranty does not include customer damage to the finish or the product itself caused by over tightening or incorrectly applied tool force or use of fluids containing any abrasives or glycol.* Water cooling has an inherent risk of damage to your computer parts from improperly selected or installed components; therefore, Monsoon is not responsible for any damage that might arise from the use of these products. We recommend leak testing your loop outside of your system for at least 24 hours.
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT warranty terms:
> 
> With the use of different components, materials, fluids, and flow rates, results may vary with the appearance of your tubing. *Although Advanced LRT™ is designed to work with a large variety of cooling components the use of alcohols, Ethylene Glycol and as well as any other harmful chemicals is strictly prohibited and will void your warranty.* Tubing will stain if "dyed" coolants are used. PrimoChill is not responsible for any damage caused by or when using this product. Please use at your own risk.


----------



## 15goudreau

xt-1 is supposed to be used with sub zero temperatures which usually have a dilution of glycol in it to reduce the freezing point. Glycol will crack acrylic given enough time if it isn't diluted enough because it will react with the bonds. I would stay away from it unless you are going sub zero and just buy the x-1


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Right were working on some new product descriptions of all our products. Once we've compiled all the information together we will add the information to all our site and on here.
> 
> So the what is the information were going to add.
> 
> 1) Light fastness, now this normally is information used on dyes that tell how "Light Fast" the dye is when it is placed in the sun. We will update this information on our products letting you know how light fast the colours are in a loop exposed to normal light and UV light. We will grade it 1 to 5. 1 being bad 5 being excellent.
> 
> This will help people understand how bright the colour will stay over a period of time.
> 
> 2) PH range. We will let everyone know what the ph range of each dye / product is so that if you say use a rad that changes the ph we will let you know what the max of each dye or product is. The lesser the PH range the more sensitive the product will be to change.
> 
> We think this information will be good for all users how ever it will take some time to compile all this information.
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice. Will this information be included on the bottle labels as well?
Click to expand...

I think i could work on some sort of information which could be added to the bottle. Ill have to look into it.


----------



## topomodder

Hello guys & Mayhems







. I bought aurora tharsis concentrate and DI water for my simple loop (only cpu) in my build (see below)








Since i will use a " T " fitting with a bitspower's tap to help me out draining the loop (for maintenance purposes), i was asking myself if there will be any particular issue if the loop will be like this :

D5 pump ---> T fitting+ tap ---> cpu waterblock ---> rad ---> z-multi tank ---> back to pump

Rad will be on top of the case. Waterblock and pump at the same level (it's a reverse-atx) , tank will be a few cm over the tank. T fitting and tap will be at the lowest position .

I know aurora particles may stagnate so do you have advices ? May this loop works without problems?

thanks


----------



## 15goudreau

I would guess you would be ok because the d5 pump should have enough flow to keep all the particles in suspension. However other users may have different opinions about that.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topomodder*
> 
> Hello guys & Mayhems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I bought aurora tharsis concentrate and DI water for my simple loop (only cpu) in my build (see below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since i will use a " T " fitting with a bitspower's tap to help me out draining the loop (for maintenance purposes), i was asking myself if there will be any particular issue if the loop will be like this :
> 
> D5 pump ---> T fitting+ tap ---> cpu waterblock ---> rad ---> z-multi tank ---> back to pump
> 
> Rad will be on top of the case. Waterblock and pump at the same level (it's a reverse-atx) , tank will be a few cm over the tank. T fitting and tap will be at the lowest position .
> 
> I know aurora particles may stagnate so do you have advices ? May this loop works without problems?
> 
> thanks


Aurora doesn't like T fittings if I remember correctly. You should be fine, but if possible I'd drop the T fitting and go for some QDC draining instead.


----------



## topomodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Aurora doesn't like T fittings if I remember correctly. You should be fine, but if possible I'd drop the T fitting and go for some QDC draining instead.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I would guess you would be ok because the d5 pump should have enough flow to keep all the particles in suspension. However other users may have different opinions about that.


Thank you guys !!!
Well the compromise would be removing the tap and leave the T fitting with a simple plug , but on the other hand it would be a pain in the ass to drain .
Hope anyone has any other ideas and opinions so I can make a clear decision


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topomodder*
> 
> Thank you guys !!!
> Well the compromise would be removing the tap and leave the T fitting with a simple plug , but on the other hand it would be a pain in the ass to drain .
> Hope anyone has any other ideas and opinions so I can make a clear decision


As I said, using quick disconnects as a draining mechanism would be an alternative. I don't think the T-fitting would decrease the lifespan that much since it's such a small loop, but yeah.


----------



## topomodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> As I said, using quick disconnects as a draining mechanism would be an alternative. I don't think the T-fitting would decrease the lifespan that much since it's such a small loop, but yeah.


Alright, thank you very much!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topomodder*
> 
> Hello guys & Mayhems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I bought aurora tharsis concentrate and DI water for my simple loop (only cpu) in my build (see below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since i will use a " T " fitting with a bitspower's tap to help me out draining the loop (for maintenance purposes), i was asking myself if there will be any particular issue if the loop will be like this :
> 
> D5 pump ---> T fitting+ tap ---> cpu waterblock ---> rad ---> z-multi tank ---> back to pump
> 
> Rad will be on top of the case. Waterblock and pump at the same level (it's a reverse-atx) , tank will be a few cm over the tank. T fitting and tap will be at the lowest position .
> 
> I know aurora particles may stagnate so do you have advices ? May this loop works without problems?
> 
> thanks


If ya using rotary fittings, and space allows, you wud be able to rotate the drain upwards so that when in not any particles in the drain portion would settle down into the 'floweing" portion of the fitting and get picked up again....just rotate down when needed. Tho you's need a pretty open spot to do that in.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I think i could work on some sort of information which could be added to the bottle. Ill have to look into it.


Cool.

Also, just got back from traveling for work and had a package waiting for me.






Thanks again Mayhems


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Cool.
> 
> Also, just got back from traveling for work and had a package waiting for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again Mayhems


Damn, did you just order the entire mayhems line for giggles?


----------



## lowfat

That is a whole lotta dye.


----------



## Jimhans1

Lol, that's gotta be close to $300 worth of mayhems product. Nice!!


----------



## topomodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> If ya using rotary fittings, and space allows, you wud be able to rotate the drain upwards so that when in not any particles in the drain portion would settle down into the 'floweing" portion of the fitting and get picked up again....just rotate down when needed. Tho you's need a pretty open spot to do that in.


Interesting! I didn't think about rotary fittings , that might be the solution!
Thank you Jack!


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Update!! check out my system now, using Pastel Mint Green with added mayhems Emerald Green dye and Blue

Also redid my watercooling loop, all internal now with a XSPC Photon D5 Vario Pump/res combo and Alphacool XT45 240 and 360 and Koolance QD3 Quick Disconnects and Primochill Advanced LRT tubing.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I think i could work on some sort of information which could be added to the bottle. Ill have to look into it.
> 
> 
> 
> Cool.
> 
> Also, just got back from traveling for work and had a package waiting for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again Mayhems
Click to expand...

That took a while :/ ....

T Fittinmgs are oky is you can have it upside down and rotate it so that it doesnt collact the aurora. What i do is use a http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Bitspower-14-Thread-T-Fitting-with-3-Female-14-Threads--BP-TMB-pid-12061.html. It works very well.


----------



## whitie63

Why *?????* is my Mayhems Pastel Coolant Concentrate turning "*BROWN*" it is less than three months old "*I'M NOT VERY HAPPY* "





I thought it had a *3 Year in system life span.*


----------



## stickg1

What type of rads do you run and how did you flush all the components before filling?


----------



## Mayhem

lol ive just said that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What type of rads do you run and how did you flush all the components before filling?


Lol ive just said that in the PM he sent me ..


----------



## M3TAl

My Ice White is right about 3 months old now. The coolant itself is still white as can be.

The crappy Durelene tubing however is green/brown as can be. But that's my own fault for not getting good tubing. Was on a tight budget and all.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> Why *?????* is my Mayhems Pastel Coolant Concentrate turning "*BROWN*" it is less than three months old "*I'M NOT VERY HAPPY* "
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought it had a *3 Year in system life span.*


Doesn't look brown at all in the pics, but there could be several possibilities.

1: If you didn't properly flush your loop it could be flux from the radiator.
2: If you didn't treat the loop properly an imbalanced pH may have caused it.
3: If you didn't used distilled, and instead used tap or some other type of non pure water chemicals from the treatment plant may have messed with it.

It has a lifespan of 2 to 3 years.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> lol ive just said that
> Lol ive just said that in the PM he sent me ..


Monsoon 5/8" OD Hardline Tube all ek blocks all new ??? and yes i did clean it with vinegar and id water


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> Monsoon 5/8" OD Hardline Tube all ek blocks all new ??? and yes i did clean it with vinegar and id water


There's your problem, if you flush with an acid to clean your loop you need to flush with a sodium bicarbonate to neutralize the loop. Too high acidity will mess with pastel, and acetic acid is one of the most potent acids in existence; mind you vinegar is only 8% acetic acid but it doesn't take much.


----------



## whitie63




----------



## whitie63

Mayhems X1 Coolant

Mayhems X1 Coolant is a clear standard coolant that comes in many colours. It is a alternative coolant that does not use glycol in any form. It is 100% Human / Animal safe. Like all our coolants it comes with a Child safety cap as standard.

Maximum life span is 1 year but we do recommend uses change there liquids every 9 months.

The UV Pink version of this Coolant stains like mad.... How ever it is one of the brightest UV active coolants we do. UV pink is all so in the UV Red and UV Blood Red. Mayhems how ever is now removing the UV pink from Mayhems Blood Red as we feel it is not needed. Users who have experienced the staining have managed to easily remove the staining *using a mix of clear vinegar and water with no adverse side effects.*

Colours Mayhems X1 comes in as standard in 250ml concentrate and 1 ltr premixed.

Clear (this is the base mix that you can colour as you wish)
UV Blue
UV Red
UV Pink (all so know as UV Red to some companies)
UV Purple
UV Oil Black
UV Clear Blue
UV Yellow Green (all so known as Acid Green)
UV Green
Blood Red (this will be rolled out soon as we are no longer producing it with UV)

i followed the mans instructions ???


----------



## stickg1

That's for X1 coolant not Pastel. Pastel is sensitive to pH balance. Running vinegar through your loop is going to raise the acidity in your loop.


----------



## whitie63

OK so this didnt happen to any of you guys and Mayhem dont seam to care FINE.................


----------



## stickg1

This is from their website and their item description at retailers..
Quote:


> Before Using Mayhems Pastel range
> 
> The system must be clean and have no chemicals of any kind left in the loop. There must be an absence of bleach, biocide and anti corrosive inhibitors. We recommend you flush your system with either DI water or Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 before use. Mayhems Pastel has biocides and inhibitors included within the mixture.


That sucks that your having issues but it's just the pastel reacting to the vinegar in your loop.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> OK so this didnt happen to any of you guys and Mayhem dont seam to care FINE.................


Kind sir, I've used mayhems pastel and X1 for several years now. I've used Pastel White in the past, alas I don't have a system with it at the moment. I've personally never had any issues with my White Pastel, but I also have never used vinegar to clean my full system loop either. Have you taken some of the coolant out of the loop to see if it looks brown in a clear glass container? There have been a couple of folks on the OCN who have had an issue with "brown" White Pastel, but once it was out of the tubes, it was white still and the brown was a build up of some other gunk in the tubes. Could this possible be the case also?

And, since it is a Sunday, maybe the good folks at mayhems will get back to you promptly during their normal business hours?

I'm sure that Mayhems will make good on their product if it is defective and not a user issue.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> OK so this didnt happen to any of you guys and Mayhem dont seam to care FINE.................


It didn't happen to us because we didn't put acid in our loops. Simple as that. User error.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> Mayhems X1 Coolant
> 
> Mayhems X1 Coolant is a clear standard coolant that comes in many colours. It is a alternative coolant that does not use glycol in any form. It is 100% Human / Animal safe. Like all our coolants it comes with a Child safety cap as standard.
> 
> Maximum life span is 1 year but we do recommend uses change there liquids every 9 months.
> 
> The UV Pink version of this Coolant stains like mad.... How ever it is one of the brightest UV active coolants we do. UV pink is all so in the UV Red and UV Blood Red. Mayhems how ever is now removing the UV pink from Mayhems Blood Red as we feel it is not needed. *Users who have experienced the staining have managed to easily remove the staining using a mix of clear vinegar and water with no adverse side effects.*
> 
> Colours Mayhems X1 comes in as standard in 250ml concentrate and 1 ltr premixed.
> 
> Clear (this is the base mix that you can colour as you wish)
> UV Blue
> UV Red
> UV Pink (all so know as UV Red to some companies)
> UV Purple
> UV Oil Black
> UV Clear Blue
> UV Yellow Green (all so known as Acid Green)
> UV Green
> Blood Red (this will be rolled out soon as we are no longer producing it with UV)
> 
> i followed the mans instructions ???


You realize that the portion you bolded is the instructions for flushing out your loop if you have staining from UV pink. That means it will have no adverse affects to your equipment. That DOES NOT mean that it won't affect whatever you plan on putting in your loop next. You HAVE to watch the Ph of your loop after any time you plan on cleaning your loop with an acid.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> Mayhems X1 Coolant
> 
> Mayhems X1 Coolant is a clear standard coolant that comes in many colours. It is a alternative coolant that does not use glycol in any form. It is 100% Human / Animal safe. Like all our coolants it comes with a Child safety cap as standard.
> 
> Maximum life span is 1 year but we do recommend uses change there liquids every 9 months.
> 
> The UV Pink version of this Coolant stains like mad.... How ever it is one of the brightest UV active coolants we do. UV pink is all so in the UV Red and UV Blood Red. Mayhems how ever is now removing the UV pink from Mayhems Blood Red as we feel it is not needed. Users who have experienced the staining have managed to easily remove the staining *using a mix of clear vinegar and water with no adverse side effects.*
> 
> Colours Mayhems X1 comes in as standard in 250ml concentrate and 1 ltr premixed.
> 
> Clear (this is the base mix that you can colour as you wish)
> UV Blue
> UV Red
> UV Pink (all so know as UV Red to some companies)
> UV Purple
> UV Oil Black
> UV Clear Blue
> UV Yellow Green (all so known as Acid Green)
> UV Green
> Blood Red (this will be rolled out soon as we are no longer producing it with UV)
> 
> i followed the mans instructions ???


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> OK so this didnt happen to any of you guys and Mayhem dont seam to care FINE.................


Okay you need to take a chill pill. You most certainly did NOT follow the manufacturers instructions for your coolant, you followed their instructions for Mayhems X1 which is a COMPLETELY DIFFERENT COOLANT. Then you're going to go off saying we don't seem to care? We told you what you did wrong, what you need to do to get it working properly, why what you did caused the issue you're having, that you were reading the system prep info from a different coolant, and someone even linked the proper description from the manu about the product your using. This is entirely user error which is understandable, we all make mistakes, but now when everyones trying to help you're going to throw a fit?

You have the information from several people, take it or leave it.


----------



## M4ng03z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's for X1 coolant not Pastel. Pastel is sensitive to pH balance. Running vinegar through your loop is going to raise the acidity in your loop.


I can understand his confusion, having vinegar flush suggested for cleaning after one product and being an issue for preparing to use another.
I did notice the suggestion of flushing with DI on the bottle, but a "vinegar will turn this colors" notice might be a nice addition.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> OK so this didnt happen to any of you guys and Mayhem dont seam to care FINE.................


Not sure what your conversation with Mayhem was, but if you're mad about not having a response, it's Sunday, so give it a business day or two. If you were told "too bad" I'm really sorry for you, but it did say "The system must be clean and have no chemicals of any kind left in the system." and to flush your system with DI water.

Sorry for your luck


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M4ng03z*
> 
> I can understand his confusion, having vinegar flush suggested for cleaning after one product and being an issue for preparing to use another.
> I did notice the suggestion of flushing with DI on the bottle, but a "vinegar will turn this colors" notice might be a nice addition.
> Not sure what your conversation with Mayhem was, but if you're mad about not having a response, it's Sunday, so give it a business day or two. If you were told "too bad" I'm really sorry for you, but it did say "The system must be clean and have no chemicals of any kind left in the system." and to flush your system with DI water.
> 
> Sorry for your luck


I don't mean to sound as if I'm overreacting I have a few thousand dollars tied up in my system besides the many hours to take it apart and put it back together againI painstakingly went through a lot of trouble to make sure it was clean I read everything I could read about my mayhem that was the only thing I could find it said nothing about the pastel fluids so I went with what I have not knowing that I was already doing something wrong but nevermind so be it I will deal with it


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> I don't mean to sound as if I'm overreacting I have a few thousand dollars tied up in my system besides the many hours to take it apart and put it back together againI painstakingly went through a lot of trouble to make sure it was clean I read everything I could read about my hands that was the only thing I could find it said nothing about the pastel fluids so I went with what I have not knowing that I was already doing something wrong but nevermind so be it I will deal with it


1 Tablespoon of baking soda to each liter of distilled water. Drain your loop, flush with the sodium bicarbonate (i.e. the baking soda and water), flush one more time with distilled, fill with pastel. Shouldn't have any problems after that.


----------



## cyphon

I'll add, I concur with ZytheEKs, Stickg1, and Jimhans1 in that it definitely appears that you left traces of acidic solution that threw your pH off, which often will change the color of the pastel. Mayhem has put out numerous posts in the community and other media that have addressed this type of issue in the past. The turning of color, especially towards a brown color, is generally caused by an imbalanced pH...most often from the improper flushing of radiators. Personally, I have some Pastel running in a system for almost a year straight now (24/7 mining) and I have no color changing, separation, etc. It looks as it did the day I put it in.

To say Mayhem is ignoring you is a bit unfair as he posted a page or two back saying that he sent you follow up questions in a PM. Additionally, it is outside of business hours as others have pointed out. And to say none of us care....well, you have 2 pages of responses to try to help with very little acceptance or acknowledgement from you. Mind you, none of us are paid employees or have any legal affiliation or commitment with Mayhems...we are just a community of loyal users that love the products and try to help others who are interested or have any questions or issues around the products...and also to look at the awesome builds that get posted in here. Please do not take your frustrations out on us

For completeness I wanted to add some further things to try: Drain the fluid and inspect the color in a clear glass (wine glass) in good light (outside full daylight). If it is clean, then check your tubing. If it isn't, try running it through some coffee filters a few times and see if it cleans it up. Since it was probably a pH imbalance issue, I doubt that it will do much good, but it is your best bet at salvaging your fluid.

Mayhems is working on adding additional information to their product descriptions regarding pH sensitivity and light reactiveness for all of their products. While it is not there currently, it is coming soon. This is to help customers pick products up front and keep them informed on how to use their products. I cannot say that I have seen any other company is offering this type of information.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'll add, I concur with ZytheEKs, Stickg1, and Jimhans1 in that it definitely appears that you left traces of acidic solution that threw your pH off, which often will change the color of the pastel. Mayhem has put out numerous posts in the community and other media that have addressed this type of issue in the past. The turning of color, especially towards a brown color, is generally caused by an imbalanced pH...most often from the improper flushing of radiators. Personally, I have some Pastel running in a system for almost a year straight now (24/7 mining) and I have no color changing, separation, etc. It looks as it did the day I put it in.
> 
> To say Mayhem is ignoring you is a bit unfair as he posted a page or two back saying that he sent you follow up questions in a PM. Additionally, it is outside of business hours as others have pointed out. And to say none of us care....well, you have 2 pages of responses to try to help with very little acceptance or acknowledgement from you. Mind you, none of us are paid employees or have any legal affiliation or commitment with Mayhems...we are just a community of loyal users that love the products and try to help others who are interested or have any questions or issues around the products...and also to look at the awesome builds that get posted in here. Please do not take your frustrations out on us
> 
> For completeness I wanted to add some further things to try: Drain the fluid and inspect the color in a clear glass (wine glass) in good light (outside full daylight). If it is clean, then check your tubing. If it isn't, try running it through some coffee filters a few times and see if it cleans it up. Since it was probably a pH imbalance issue, I doubt that it will do much good, but it is your best bet at salvaging your fluid.
> 
> Mayhems is working on adding additional information to their product descriptions regarding pH sensitivity and light reactiveness for all of their products. While it is not there currently, it is coming soon. This is to help customers pick products up front and keep them informed on how to use their products. I cannot say that I have seen any other company is offering this type of information.


It's definitely imbalanced pH, he's using Polymethyl methacrylate tubing, aka hardline acrylic tubing.

No chance for plasticizers there.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It's definitely imbalanced pH, he's using Polymethyl methacrylate tubing, aka hardline acrylic tubing.
> 
> No chance for plasticizers there.


Very true... didn't look at the pic close enough before


----------



## NiNoDuKEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> OK so this didnt happen to any of you guys and Mayhem dont seam to care FINE.................


Not to be rude, but its YOUR fault this happened, and Mayhem is one of the very VERY few people who back their product without question if he can, So again this is your fault.

Mayhem's is a very kind and honest person and will be the first to tell you if its his product thats the issue, I'm sorry but please either Buy another batch and do it correctly or stop asking for help or degrading someone's product for your own mistakes.


----------



## gdubc

I am wanting to maybe do a dual loop with some pastel fluids, but I am hoping to do Miami dolphins colors. So the orange is easy enough, but any suggestions on getting that sea/aqua green color mixed right?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I am wanting to maybe do a dual loop with some pastel fluids, but I am hoping to do Miami dolphins colors. So the orange is easy enough, but any suggestions on getting that sea/aqua green color mixed right?


Buy paste white, buy 30ml of blue dye, and 30ml of green dye, which would be two bottles of each; then experiment with it. Cyphon might be able to give you an estimate on the dye ratio, but in short that's going to be your best bet.


----------



## gdubc

Thanks! Figured I would ask as someone has probably done something close to that shade before.


----------



## M4ng03z

Good call on the white.
Just add the die very carefully waiting for the color change.
You know, like high school chemistry...


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M4ng03z*
> 
> Good call on the white.
> Just add the die very carefully waiting for the color change.
> You know, like high school chemistry...


Well assuming you you meant dye, yup that's the general idea. On the other hand if you didn't mean dye dropping death into your loop is ill advised.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I am wanting to maybe do a dual loop with some pastel fluids, but I am hoping to do Miami dolphins colors. So the orange is easy enough, but any suggestions on getting that sea/aqua green color mixed right?
> 
> 
> 
> Buy paste white, buy 30ml of blue dye, and 30ml of green dye, which would be two bottles of each; then experiment with it. Cyphon might be able to give you an estimate on the dye ratio, but in short that's going to be your best bet.
Click to expand...

This ^^^ and you could also try ocean blue dye in your white since it's already a "greener" blue.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> OK so this didnt happen to any of you guys and Mayhem dont seam to care FINE.................


Now you messed up there comments like that and the one you posted in PMs saying i've called you "stupid " esp when no one called you anything will get you nowhere. Sorry if you wish to accuse someone of something you best back it up with decent evidence and normally i would listen to what you have said, reviewed your photos and then probably sent you new products to replace it.....

How ever if you expect me to do that now you'll be sadly mistaken. The colour is from your rad and yes it is common if you do not clean your system correctly which is your responsibility.
Quote:


> *Before Using Mayhems Pastel*
> 
> _The system must be clean and have no chemicals of any kind left in the system._ We recommend you flush your system with Either DI water or Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 Before use. Mayhems Pastel has Biocides and inhibitors included in the Mixture.


this is on the bottle ....


----------



## M4ng03z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well assuming you you meant dye, yup that's the general idea. On the other hand if you didn't mean dye dropping death into your loop is ill advised.


That mistype...








This is the only death you should drop into your loop:


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M4ng03z*
> 
> That mistype...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the only death you should drop into your loop:


Are you trying to tell me I shouldn't be putting hotsauce in my loop?

Because it works wonders as a way to make my coolant burn peoples skin so they fear my computer.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I am wanting to maybe do a dual loop with some pastel fluids, but I am hoping to do Miami dolphins colors. So the orange is easy enough, but any suggestions on getting that sea/aqua green color mixed right?


I would do ocean blue and some green. Speaking of Dolphin's, I just got this sick hat yesterday!


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 1 Tablespoon of baking soda to each liter of distilled water. Drain your loop, flush with the sodium bicarbonate (i.e. the baking soda and water), flush one more time with distilled, fill with pastel. Shouldn't have any problems after that.


an answer telling me how to fix the problem not telling me what I did wrong the answer in fixing helps to understand what is wrong and there should be added pastel instructions to the beginning of this log everybody always Direct newcomers users anybody with a question to the very beginning and it says nothing about pastel because it wasn't made yet. again I want to thank you for your helpful answer


----------



## 15goudreau

Double post


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> an answer telling me how to fix the problem not telling me what I did wrongthe answer in fixing helps to understand what is wrong and there should be added pastel instructions to the beginning of this log everybody always Direct newcomers users anybody with a question to the very beginning and it says nothing about passed out because it wasn't made yetagain I want to thank you for your helpful answer


I think you may want to re-read what you wrote. Because I tried a few times and can't make any sense out of it.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> an answer telling me how to fix the problem not telling me what I did wrongthe answer in fixing helps to understand what is wrong and there should be added pastel instructions to the beginning of this log everybody always Direct newcomers users anybody with a question to the very beginning and it says nothing about passed out because it wasn't made yetagain I want to thank you for your helpful answer


I think you already have been answered on what you did wrong. You flushed your system with vinegar and you didn't use baking soda to neutralize the pH levels in your loop. I hope you actually did read the bottle before using it. In case you missed it, I highlighted it in red for you:



Sodium bicarbonate is baking soda, this is what I used to flush mine (followed by just distilled water):


----------



## stickg1

Yeah bud, the instructions are on the bottle. Doesn't get any more direct than that. Mick (Mayhems) takes his customer service seriously and even knowing it was user error, he probably would have replaced your coolant anyway until you threw a fit about it. Also I'm not sure if English is your first language or not, but it's hard to get people to take you seriously with such poor grammar and sentence structure. No offense but it makes you look somewhat incompetent. Your PC looks great, your communication skills could use some work.


----------



## Mayhem

whitie63 Ive been reminded of our global promise that if your not happy we will replace your coolant no matter what ....



Please send me you full name, address and telephone number and we will replace your coolant. If you wish i will also provide you with a new unreleased cleaning kit that is in need of testers (such as your self) ... how ever you must follow instructions on its use to the letter no exceptions. This is a 2 part cleaning solution that we are developing and should clean your system up to Mayhems standards ...

its your choice ... you will be the first out side of the Mayhems team to "test" this new product.

Mick


----------



## whitie63

I accept your offer and to all the other people I definitely apologize for failing to read my voice to text on my phone I have failed the English language in this manner proofreading should always be a high priority before hitting the send button


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I can understand the user's point .... if baking soda was in fact required, then it should be on the label, but I do not believe that to be the case and that the bottle instructions are more than adequate.

If you are going to use a base solution in there to counter the acid one, then what you you then use to neutralize the base solution from the sodium bicarbonate .... another acid solution ? If not, then if water flushing is adequate for the base solution, it should be adequate for the acid solution. I am not saying a base flush isn't a good thing ..... AFAIK it may be helpful in removing something else commonly found in a rad. However, one day while working in a lab, someone spilled some sodium hydroxide pellets which I helped picked up, later was wiping my sweaty hands on my pants and what I didn't realize at the time is it wasn't sweat., it was my skin dissolving. When those pants were washed the places where I wiped my hands were simply gone. If you do flush with a base solution as an added step, I would strongly advise a water flush in between as an acid / base reaction could be rather violent.

You will also notice that any medical remedy to getting splashed with mild acids or bases is flushing with large amounts of water.... sulfuric acid, the addition of soap is helpful for skin exposure and with that nasty hydrofluoric stuff a mild baking soda solution helps.....carbolic is not diluted by water and alcohol is recommended first and then water. For eyes, it's always just water.

Getting back to rads, if we were talking about an acid solution, that is the water in the rads, then the only way to lower pH on an acid solution would be to carefully add a base compound and bring the pH up to a neutral level. However, we are talking about resdue on metal here, and any industrial process that uses water soluble acids on metal for etching or other purposes is simply flushed clean with water. I used a vinegar solution and left it in for 6 hours..... I then flushed with alternating hot and cold water at about 4-5 gpm for about ten minutes, followed by three fillings with DW each of which was left in for 10 minutes with a "shakie shakie" action about 4 times during the period. I then used a pH meter, use a swimming pool test kit if unavailable, and got the expected 7.0

In short, while using a base solution is something I would not advise against, unless of course you did flush with copious amounts of water as you'd do for an acid solution, I'd say that Mathems instructions or more than adequate to obtain a neutral pH and not degrade their product.


----------



## stickg1

Flushing with baking soda is not required. Just like flushing with vinegar is not required.

The only thing required is clean components. That can be done with just distilled water.


----------



## VSG

Mick, another +rep to you.

If you need other testers, let me know. I have 3 entire University labs at my disposal and would be glad to help out anyway I can. You have earned respect multiple times round now!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mick, another +rep to you.
> 
> If you need other testers, let me know. I have 3 entire University labs at my disposal and would be glad to help out anyway I can. You have earned respect multiple times round now!


Same hear Mayhems +Rep!! Great service!

Also, If you need a tester for anything down the road, hit me up. Either for personal use or my store, I'm always doing something liquid cooled, I'd be happy to run stuff through the ringer for you.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Flushing with baking soda is not required. Just like flushing with vinegar is not required.
> 
> The only thing required is clean components. That can be done with just distilled water.


now you all are just getting confusing I think I'll just wait for Mayham advise


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> now you all are just getting confusing I think I'll just wait for Mayham advise


What @stickg1 means is, the baking soda rinse and the vinegar rinse AREN'T required to have a clean system. The vinegar rinse is to help remove dye buildup in a system that's been running a "heavy" dye. If you did a wash with vinegar, then you do need to neutralize the acid somehow, and that's where the bicarbonate comes in. BUT, if your building a new system, with all new hardware, you don't need to do either of them, you can just rinse your loop with DI water. At least that's what my take on his comment was.


----------



## stickg1

Exactly, I was kind of brief though because I'm up on a roof repairing a chimney! My cut man is slow so I have down time between boards!


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> What @stickg1 means is, the baking soda rinse and the vinegar rinse AREN'T required to have a clean system. The vinegar rinse is to help remove dye buildup in a system that's been running a "heavy" dye. If you did a wash with vinegar, then you do need to neutralize the acid somehow, and that's where the bicarbonate comes in. BUT, if your building a new system, with all new hardware, you don't need to do either of them, you can just rinse your loop with DI water. At least that's what my take on his comment was.


so D I water will take care of flux in a new radiator good to know


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> so D I water will take care of flux in a new radiator good to know


yes lots of DI water


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Flushing with baking soda is not required. Just like flushing with vinegar is not required.
> 
> The only thing required is clean components. That can be done with just distilled water.


You are right that is not required, but it is recommended as a precaution and says so right on the bottle label. There have been plenty of people who just flushed with distilled water and still experienced unwanted issues. What harm would it do to spend a dollar getting a box of baking soda and doing 1 or 2 extra flushes compared to getting some sort of issue that could cost you more time and money in the long run?

Don't get me wrong, I've always just used tap water and then distilled water to flush my components, but baking soda does have cleaning properties as well so it's more than reasonable to use it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> so D I water will take care of flux in a new radiator good to know


I would say 7~10 flushes would be the bare minimum if it's a new radiator.


----------



## theonedub

@Mayhem-
I've been running Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow since November 2013 now and its slowly but surely been getting darker and darker. Color started off nice and bright, but now it is about the color of orange juice. Loop has never seen any other coolant- have only used Mayhems Sunset Yellow Pastel mixed with distilled per the instructions. No other additives, chemicals, coils, etc have been added.

Here's the progression:


I don't think this is normal at all. I had wanted to switch over to Mayhems Pastel White, but the color changing like this with white coolant would be pretty awful. Any ideas? I thought I would ask, maybe its a bad batch or something. I'd prefer not to move to distilled w/ a coil, but the coolant is not at all aesthetically pleasing like this.

Thanks,


----------



## stickg1

Try to drain a little out into a wine glass or something crystal clear and see if it's still orange.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Try to drain a little out into a wine glass or something crystal clear and see if it's still orange.


The reservoir is crystal clear and its orange in there (XSPC Photon 270 made of glass, not acrylic). I would guess its going to be the same color if I put some into a glass.


----------



## stickg1

Not necessarily. The res could potentially have the same filmy residue as your tubing. It's worth a try.

That is if this isn't a case of discolored coolant.


----------



## theonedub

I dont think there is any residue in the reservoir. Increasing the pump speed to max drops the coolant level in the res and that newly exposed portion is still crystal.

I'm going to drain the loop anyway, so I'll check it out for s&g's when that time comes.


----------



## M4ng03z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> You are right that is not required, but it is recommended as a precaution and says so right on the bottle label. There have been plenty of people who just flushed with distilled water and still experienced unwanted issues. What harm would it do to spend a dollar getting a box of baking soda and doing 1 or 2 extra flushes compared to getting some sort of issue that could cost you more time and money in the long run?
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I've always just used tap water and then distilled water to flush my components, but baking soda does have cleaning properties as well so it's more than reasonable to use it.
> I would say 7~10 flushes would be the bare minimum if it's a new radiator.


^^^this
I flush with HOT tap water for several minutes and then flush that out with distilled.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M4ng03z*
> 
> ^^^this
> I flush with HOT tap water for several minutes and then flush that out with distilled.


I boil tap water, flush a few times, then flush twice is cool distilled.


----------



## M4ng03z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> @Mayhem-
> I've been running Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow since November 2013 now and its slowly but surely been getting darker and darker. Color started off nice and bright, but now it is about the color of orange juice. Loop has never seen any other coolant- have only used Mayhems Sunset Yellow Pastel mixed with distilled per the instructions. No other additives, chemicals, coils, etc have been added.
> 
> Here's the progression:
> 
> 
> I don't think this is normal at all. I had wanted to switch over to Mayhems Pastel White, but the color changing like this with white coolant would be pretty awful. Any ideas? I thought I would ask, maybe its a bad batch or something. I'd prefer not to move to distilled w/ a coil, but the coolant is not at all aesthetically pleasing like this.
> 
> Thanks,


Sorry for your luck. Great photos, documentation, and explanation! I'm curious to find out the cause. Several people in this thread have had wonderful results with Pastel White with no color changing so something is definitely off for you.

How did you prep your loop before the Mayhems?

Sweet build btw


----------



## pcoutu17

I just thought of something, would it be fairly accurate to use an rgb code as a guide for dye ratio to get a desired color?

I'm assuming not, since light and paint/materials operate on slightly different mechanics, at least from what I understand.


----------



## akira749

I just finished my Case Labs S5 project.

Here's a couple final shots you can check the log for more









Some people will find it to be an odd color theme but this is what I wanted









Coolant is Raspberry Purple with a ton of blue dye...it's not perfect but I like it that way.


----------



## VSG

I love it, that figurine in there makes me understand the whole loop color scheme better as well


----------



## Mayhem

Colour changes are normally down to the rad releasing contaminants into the system over time. When heat is applied this is when you start getting colour changes. We have noted that some manufacturers do not clean there rads very well before sending them to re-sellers or customers. This is not our fault how ever we have been working on a cleaning system that will resolve the issue.

The first part of our solution is a mix of different chemicals and one of them is "Phosphoric Acid" which is a well known cleaner and will clean up copper and solder within 1 to 2 hours. It will take the liquid down to PH 2.2 so is not something you should mess around with too much, how ever once used you can dispose of it down the normal drainage system. The 1st part also contains some surfactants. We would advise you to only use this to wash your rads out separate from the whole system. If you do not this it will strip some plated products especially if left longer than 2 hours. This was noted on Koolance quick release fittings.

The second part of the system is a PH balanced liquid PH 7.2 and contains non ionic surfactants and cleaners. This you should run with the rad placed back in the system and should be run for 24 hours. This will help neutralise any acid or Alkaline components and will not eat away at any fitting or seals. You need to run it in a system that has only the pump powered on so that there is flow around the whole system. Once the flush is complete after 24 hours it then can be emptied down the main darin and then you flush out you system two more times with water and you should now have a completely cleaned system with no issues what so ever.

*Advantages of the cleaning system and instructions ->*

BETA "Mayhems "BLITZ" cleaning system"

*Contents*

50ml Part 1 Cleaning System
50ml Part 2 Cleaning System
Rubber gloves
Instructions
Warnings (separate sheet in Bold / Red)

*Part 1 -*

﻿Maximum effectiveness
Rapid neutralisation of surface rust and contamination
Rigorous removal of mineral scale deposits
Excellent suspension of particulates
Low foaming.
Hard water tolerant
Can be disposed of to grey-water drain
Easy to handle and straight forward to use
Improves heat transfer rate
*Usage -*

Mix Part one with water to a ratio of 0.025 to 1. So 25ml of part 1 to 975ml of water.
Add to the radiator and clean up any spills immediately.
Vent the system of any trapped air. and cap the radiator.
Recirculate for a maximum of two hours. (shake very 10 min)
After two hours empty down the waste drain. DO NOT LEAVE LONGER THAN TWO HOURS
Refill with fresh water and rise out.
Repeat this 2 times.
Refit to loop and move to part two of the cleaning system.
*Part 2 -*

﻿﻿pH neutral (7pH)
Effective neutralisation of bacteria & algae
Good removal of slime, silt & detritus
Excellent suspension of particulates
Hard water tolerant
Can be disposed of to grey-water drain
Easy to handle and straightforward to use
Improves heat transfer rate
*Usage -*

Drain existing system contents.
Mix Part two with water to a ratio of 0.025 to 1. So 25ml of part 1 to 975ml of water.
Add the part 2 solution to the system.
Vent the system of any trapped air.
Recirculate for a maximum of 24 hours. Regularly check all filters and clean as necessary.
Refill with fresh water.
Run for 30 minutes
Empty out and refill with fresh water.
Run for 30 minutes
Empty out and fill with your favorite coolant.
Your system is now cleaned and ready to use..
This is a real good cleaning system that will do a good job how ever the only down side is, its not a "quick" flush some people expect. If your going to do something, do it well







.

Btw this system will clean out Aurora fully.


----------



## VSG

As a chemical engineer, I applaud the use of named chemicals and am curious about the rest of them. Good job though


----------



## Neo Zuko

I want to try this new cleaning system myself.


----------



## Mayhem

The main chemical in Part 2 is Alkyldimethylbenzyl amm. chloride with none ionic surfactants and other non destructive cleaners.


----------



## VSG

What is the alkyl group being used if you can say that?


----------



## Mayhem

were using a blend of Quaternary Ammonium Compound using a long alkyl chain. I do not want to go into to much details as some companies like to copy and if we make there life to easy they would just copy what were doing









Im not a chemical engineer but feel like one haha.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Colour changes are normally down to the rad releasing contaminants into the system over time. When heat is applied this is when you start getting colour changes. We have noted that some manufacturers do not clean there rads very well before sending them to re-sellers or customers. This is not our fault how ever we have been working on a cleaning system that will resolve the issue.
> 
> The first part of our solution is a mix of different chemicals and one of them is "Phosphoric Acid" which is a well known cleaner and will clean up copper and solder within 1 to 2 hours. It will take the liquid down to PH 2.2 so is not something you should mess around with too much, how ever once used you can dispose of it down the normal drainage system. The 1st part also contains some surfactants. We would advise you to only use this to wash your rads out separate from the whole system. If you do not this it will strip some plated products especially if left longer than 2 hours. This was noted on Koolance quick release fittings.
> 
> The second part of the system is a PH balanced liquid PH 7.2 and contains non ionic surfactants and cleaners. This you should run with the rad placed back in the system and should be run for 24 hours. This will help neutralise any acid or Alkaline components and will not eat away at any fitting or seals. You need to run it in a system that has only the pump powered on so that there is flow around the whole system. Once the flush is complete after 24 hours it then can be emptied down the main darin and then you flush out you system two more times with water and you should now have a completely cleaned system with no issues what so ever.
> 
> *Advantages of the cleaning system and instructions ->*
> 
> BETA "Mayhems "BLITZ" cleaning system"
> 
> *Contents*
> 
> 50ml Part 1 Cleaning System
> 50ml Part 2 Cleaning System
> Rubber gloves
> Instructions
> Warnings (separate sheet in Bold / Red)
> 
> *Part 1 -*
> 
> ﻿Maximum effectiveness
> Rapid neutralisation of surface rust and contamination
> Rigorous removal of mineral scale deposits
> Excellent suspension of particulates
> Low foaming.
> Hard water tolerant
> Can be disposed of to grey-water drain
> Easy to handle and straight forward to use
> Improves heat transfer rate
> *Usage -*
> 
> Mix Part one with water to a ratio of 0.025 to 1. So 25ml of part 1 to 975ml of water.
> Add to the radiator and clean up any spills immediately.
> Vent the system of any trapped air. and cap the radiator.
> Recirculate for a maximum of two hours. (shake very 10 min)
> After two hours empty down the waste drain. DO NOT LEAVE LONGER THAN TWO HOURS
> Refill with fresh water and rise out.
> Repeat this 2 times.
> Refit to loop and move to part two of the cleaning system.
> *Part 2 -*
> 
> ﻿﻿pH neutral (7pH)
> Effective neutralisation of bacteria & algae
> Good removal of slime, silt & detritus
> Excellent suspension of particulates
> Hard water tolerant
> Can be disposed of to grey-water drain
> Easy to handle and straightforward to use
> Improves heat transfer rate
> *Usage -*
> 
> Drain existing system contents.
> Mix Part two with water to a ratio of 0.025 to 1. So 25ml of part 1 to 975ml of water.
> Add the part 2 solution to the system.
> Vent the system of any trapped air.
> Recirculate for a maximum of 24 hours. Regularly check all filters and clean as necessary.
> Refill with fresh water.
> Run for 30 minutes
> Empty out and refill with fresh water.
> Run for 30 minutes
> Empty out and fill with your favorite coolant.
> Your system is now cleaned and ready to use..
> This is a real good cleaning system that will do a good job how ever the only down side is, its not a "quick" flush some people expect. If your going to do something, do it well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Btw this system will clean out Aurora fully.


Looks awesome. I usually flush my system a good 24hrs anyway so it would be right up my alley lol


----------



## stickg1

Where can I procure one of these kits? I'm switching from green pastel to my own sky blue color and I want the loop nice and tidy!


----------



## Mayhem

it wont be out for a bit as im on my hols friday (for 14 days) and we need to look at boxing it, the legality and which countries we can ship to, what restrictions are in place , costs involved ect ect ect.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> were using a blend of Quaternary Ammonium Compound using a long alkyl chain. I do not want to go into to much details as some companies like to copy and if we make there life to easy they would just copy what were doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im not a chemical engineer but feel like one haha.


Fair enough, let me know if I can do anything.


----------



## freitz

Hey Guys I have had my SM8 with Pastel White up for about 9 months. I recently noticed a green tint to this pastel white. I am about to do a tear down to inspect but wanted to see if anyone else experienced this or had any suggestions.


----------



## whitie63

How many ML will a Monsta Quad 120mm Radiator - 80mm or a UT60 Full Copper Quad 120mm hold ??


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> How many ML will a Monsta Quad 120mm Radiator - 80mm or a UT60 Full Copper Quad 120mm hold ??


A lot, lol. Your best bet is to fill your loop with distilled water, drain it into a gallon jug, and measure out exactly how much coolant your entire loop has rather than estimating.


----------



## Mayhem

So just a couple of pics. this was after we have done part one and part 2 of the new cleaning system. The measurement is done after 24 hours of part 2 cleaning and is show at PH 7.0 which is perfect. We forgot to take pics at the beginning how ever the liquid was showing as PH 9.8 . All we need to do now is flush the system 2 times and then use the coolant we wish to test.

The yellow / green tint to the liquid is all the crap left from the rad and cleaning of the system.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> How many ML will a Monsta Quad 120mm Radiator - 80mm or a UT60 Full Copper Quad 120mm hold ??


A UT60 holds about 500ml, a monsta will hold a bit more.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Hey Guys I have had my SM8 with Pastel White up for about 9 months. I recently noticed a green tint to this pastel white. I am about to do a tear down to inspect but wanted to see if anyone else experienced this or had any suggestions.


What tubing?
Also try to drain and run through coffee filters and see if it cleans up


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What tubing?
> Also try to drain and run through coffee filters and see if it cleans up


Primo Chill LRT Advanced.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Colour changes are normally down to the rad releasing contaminants into the system over time. When heat is applied this is when you start getting colour changes. We have noted that some manufacturers do not clean there rads very well before sending them to re-sellers or customers. This is not our fault how ever we have been working on a cleaning system that will resolve the issue.


Have you observed this discoloring to be affected by temperature, time or other factors ? Yes, the stuff left in the rads is the primary problem but does the normal series of flushes (acidic / base / Tap Water / DW) remove it all ...... or does this remove only the top most easily soluble layer and this will continue but to a much lesser extent over time ? If the temps rise above normal, can this accelearte any of the deleterious material to dissolve out into the mix ? Are the components in the mix in any way affected by temps.

Reason I ask is after thorough washed with low and high pH, long tap water flushes both hot and cold and multiple flushes of DW, I ran for a week on DW before draining, reflushing with two fills of DW and finally the red pastel..... color held fast for 2.5 months at which point I added 2 bottles of red dye to better match the Mushkin / RoG Red. Color seemed to hold for 5-6 weeks but just recently it **seems** to be losing some of its brightness.

I have been doing some experimentation on the cooling system, running benchies with fan speeds from max to fans off which brought the system temps up to heights never seen before..... max core temp went to 84Cwitf fans off and coolant temps reached 39C .... whereas before worse case under bench testing was 74C on the core and like 37C on coolant w/ fans at minimum speed. I doubt that temps would affect the fluids "in a bottle" but wondered if perhaps if over time or if aided by elevated temps, rad flux or other compounds not removed by the acid / base baths might eventually leach out and cause this effect ?

I love the fact that you guys are addressing this issue instead of what many others might do and maintain a "talk to your rad guy, dude, it's not our problem" approach. Also I wondered if you have determined just what form this stuff takes when it discolors the fluid. Does the flux and other deleterious materials leach out of soldered joints, form bonds with water and / or coolant compounds and form a minute particulate that could perhaps be filtered out such that theonedub could drain his system, store the fluid, flush with your new cleaning system, filter his fluid to remove what's discoloring it and reuse ?

We do this at water treatment plants to remove minute traces of compounds .... chemicals are added to form bonds with what we want removed, the bonded compound will coalesce into a floc which can then be removed by settling or filtering.


----------



## acanom

Is there a special trick with bleeding Mayhems X1 Clear?

I tested my system with destilled water first and bleeding out the airbubbles went extremly fast.

Now I filled it with the X1, after draining it first ofc, and it looks like I filled it with sparkling water, no louck so far with bleeding it at all.

Any tips?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Is there a special trick with bleeding Mayhems X1 Clear?
> 
> I tested my system with destilled water first and bleeding out the airbubbles went extremly fast.
> 
> Now I filled it with the X1, after draining it first ofc, and it looks like I filled it with sparkling water, no louck so far with bleeding it at all.
> 
> Any tips?


It took about 1 week of running the system to remove the bubbles in my X1.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> A UT60 holds about 500ml, a monsta will hold a bit more.


Really ....just a single 120mm ? Are the little reservoirs holding that much as just the tubes wud seem to be a lot less. I was just doing some math in my nead when I read your answer....I was assuming 150ml for the end portions, .... at 500ml for the whole shebang, that would leave 350ml per 120mm.

With a 480 + 360 ...... (350 x 7) + (2 x 150) = 2.75 liters.

It would be nice to know this stuff.....For example

60 x 250 mm res ~ 575 ml
10mm tubing ~ 2.2 ml / inch
Model ABC GPU Block ~ 40 ml
Model DEF CPU Block ~ 25 ml

Would be easy enuff to measure ya stuff as you do a build using a kitchen measuring cup .... have to grab a 100ml graduated cylinder for more accuracy. Next time I do a build will start a thread.....though I have to say, didn't get much participation on the GFX Card Dimensions thread last time we tried to create an OCN DB of that info..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1437498/data-resource-for-wcers-gfx-card-dimensions


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Is there a special trick with bleeding Mayhems X1 Clear?
> 
> I tested my system with destilled water first and bleeding out the airbubbles went extremly fast.
> 
> Now I filled it with the X1, after draining it first ofc, and it looks like I filled it with sparkling water, no louck so far with bleeding it at all.
> 
> Any tips?


Time. Just jump your psu and run the pump for a long time it'll clear up.


----------



## Kamtzy

Does anyone know if there's a difference between Primochill Advanced LRT Clear and Red when it comes to the use of Pastel with red dye?

Used that combination in a Show build and it looked pretty sweet. But before putting it in my personal rig I'd like to be on the safe side without any issues


----------



## 15goudreau

You shouldn't have any issues. Besides turning the dyed tubing MORE red. Because the red stains a lot







Just make sure it's advanced LRT and you should be good to go.


----------



## Kamtzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> You shouldn't have any issues. *Besides turning the dyed tubing MORE red*. Because the red stains a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just make sure it's advanced LRT and you should be good to go.


Thats my goal









It actually looked really amazing in the build I did. Gave the whole tubing kind of a gradient.


----------



## 15goudreau

Then I would say go for it!


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> It took about 1 week of running the system to remove the bubbles in my X1.


So you left one of the ports open for the air to come out during normal use? Or did you run the pump only?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Time. Just jump your psu and run the pump for a long time it'll clear up.


That´s what I´m doing right now. I got a tube with funnel connected to one of the top reservoir ports for the air to come out.

How much time are we talking about here? Just an average number









Oh, and ist it better to run the pump at fullspeed or on a lower speed?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> So you left one of the ports open for the air to come out during normal use? Or did you run the pump only?
> That´s what I´m doing right now. I got a tube with funnel connected to one of the top reservoir ports for the air to come out.
> 
> How much time are we talking about here? Just an average number
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and ist it better to run the pump at fullspeed or on a lower speed?


I ran the loop completely sealed for a few days whilst the system was off. I then used the system for the remaining 4 days of the week. After 1 week, the bubbles and micro bubbles had gone. I thought they would never go. They just kept on coming. They would sit in my tubing. Thousands of tiny little micro bubbles.

The first day I filled up the loop. I left the pump running. I then cycled the pump (turn off and on several times for a little while). I then lifted the system up, turn it on it's head a few times and so on, but those bubbles would not die. I decided to leave the pump on for days on end. Every so often I would remove the cap on the res. I would hear a lot of air escape every time I did this. I repeated this process. I also tapped on the tubing to help air move along. After a week, all was good, and the level in my res had reduced which means it replaced the trapped air. So I filled up once more and I've been running for 3 months no issues.


----------



## acanom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I ran the loop completely sealed for a few days whilst the system was off. I then used the system for the remaining 4 days of the week. After 1 week, the bubbles and micro bubbles had gone. I thought they would never go. They just kept on coming. They would sit in my tubing. Thousands of tiny little micro bubbles.
> 
> The first day I filled up the loop. I left the pump running. I then cycled the pump (turn off and on several times for a little while). I then lifted the system up, turn it on it's head a few times and so on, but those bubbles would not die. I decided to leave the pump on for days on end. Every so often I would remove the cap on the res. I would hear a lot of air escape every time I did this. I repeated this process. I also tapped on the tubing to help air move along. After a week, all was good, and the level in my res had reduced which means it replaced the trapped air. So I filled up once more and I've been running for 3 months no issues.


Ok, thank you, so I´ll just let it run for a while and see how it works out.

Any suggestions for the pumpspeed?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acanom*
> 
> Ok, thank you, so I´ll just let it run for a while and see how it works out.
> 
> Any suggestions for the pumpspeed?


You have the D5 right? I ran on pump speed 4 for bleeding and I use pump speed 3 for 24/7 use.
Good choice with the X1 btw. It is a great coolant. If not, the best coolant!


----------



## acanom

Thanks again


----------



## 15goudreau

usually faster gets bubbles out of the places it is stuck in. You can try cycling the speed too. You just don't want to create turbulence because that has the potential of making more bubbles


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> usually faster gets bubbles out of the places it is stuck in. You can try cycling the speed too. You just don't want to create turbulence because that has the potential of making more bubbles


Yep, true, cycling the speed helps!


----------



## ole12

Hi guys.

This question goes for mayhems or any other who use bitspower fittings with mayhems pastel.
I've been running mayhems pastel white with bitspower fittings for a total of 18 months (with changing of tube and coolant every 6months or so, I've changed it 3 times in that 18 month time)

I just have dissembled the water cooling loop, and after cleaning and inspecting every component, I've notice that the coating inside the bitspower fittings have been worn out.
The pictures are posted in my own thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1472785/worn-out-bp-fittings/

I have talked to my supplier about the fittings, and he told me that it is the nano fluid (all the small particles), that basically polish the fittings to that degree that the coating will start wearing off. By the fact that the fittings looks polished, which is not the case when they are brand new.


----------



## badkarma3059

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ole12*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> This question goes for mayhems or any other who use bitspower fittings with mayhems pastel.
> I've been running mayhems pastel white with bitspower fittings for a total of 18 months (with changing of tube and coolant every 6months or so, I've changed it 3 times in that 18 month time)
> 
> I just have dissembled the water cooling loop, and after cleaning and inspecting every component, I've notice that the coating inside the bitspower fittings have been worn out.
> The pictures are posted in my own thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1472785/worn-out-bp-fittings/
> 
> I have talked to my supplier about the fittings, and he told me that it is the nano fluid (all the small particles), that basically polish the fittings to that degree that the coating will start wearing off. By the fact that the fittings looks polished, which is not the case when they are brand new.


I am curious about this as well since I just ordered these same fittings and want to run mayhems pastel


----------



## M4ng03z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badkarma3059*
> 
> I am curious about this as well since I just ordered these same fittings and want to run mayhems pastel


Ditto. There's nothing "wrong" or dangerous with using those fittings since they're not corroded or discolored or anything, the finish just fame off on the inside. Definitely interested in what Mayhem has to say.


----------



## Kokin

My XSPC fittings have some discoloration of the finish inside as well, but has never messed with my loop. I'm currently using Mayhem's Ice White Pastel and I haven't had any issues, although I've only been using it for about a week now.

The discoloration happened with just pure distilled water over the span of a year and half of usage. There was a month that I used distilled water with a few drops of Mayhem's Blue dye, but aside from some staining on the ends of the fittings, the insides were never really affected.

I'm loving the Ice White Pastel though!


----------



## M4ng03z




----------



## lowfat

Not quite the shade I was looking for. Unfortunately I ran out of dye.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-18-1.jpg.html


----------



## ole12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badkarma3059*
> 
> I am curious about this as well since I just ordered these same fittings and want to run mayhems pastel


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badkarma3059*
> 
> I am curious about this as well since I just ordered these same fittings and want to run mayhems pastel


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M4ng03z*
> 
> Ditto. There's nothing "wrong" or dangerous with using those fittings since they're not corroded or discolored or anything, the finish just fame off on the inside. Definitely interested in what Mayhem has to say.


Yea, im interesting in what mayhems has to say as someone else that have used mayhems pastel overtime with bitspower fittings.

I just got these 2 articles thrown at me, from my supplier (who I have learned in the lasts emails, he deff know's his stuff) pretty much interesting reading:

http://www.enea.it/it/produzione-scientifica/EAI/anno-2011/n.%204-5%202011%20Luglio-ottobre2011/nanofluid-flow-effects-on-metal-surfaces
http://www.hindawi.com/journals/jnp/2014/175896/


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Colour changes are normally down to the rad releasing contaminants into the system over time. When heat is applied this is when you start getting colour changes. We have noted that some manufacturers do not clean there rads very well before sending them to re-sellers or customers. This is not our fault how ever we have been working on a cleaning system that will resolve the issue.


@Mayhems-

I am 99.9% confident that this loop did not have any radiator contaminants and that it was properly cleaned before use. My PC was built by num1son here on the forum (the PC is actually the Erakith Tribute Build), and I believe Mayhems partially sponsored the build by supplying the coolant. I'm thinking you guys have to have confidence that he has the ability to properly use your product- else you probably wouldn't have provided any product for the build. I'm no expert, but the loop would have to have been rather filthy to cause such a significant color change in such a short amount of time. I highly doubt this is the issue here.

I'm not sure if your post was a direct reply to my post, but I'm really not satisfied with that explanation. I hope you guys can help resolve my issue.


----------



## |-Goku-|

So, I currently use the X1 and really like it. I'm considering the Aurora. Can anyone tell me, with the improved aurora, it is to much to have a ST30 360mm, XT45 240mm, EK Supremacy CPU, EK, Motherboard block, and XSPC Razor with an Adjustable D5 pump?

Thanks


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Really ....just a single 120mm ? Are the little reservoirs holding that much as just the tubes wud seem to be a lot less. I was just doing some math in my nead when I read your answer....I was assuming 150ml for the end portions, .... at 500ml for the whole shebang, that would leave 350ml per 120mm.
> 
> With a 480 + 360 ...... (350 x 7) + (2 x 150) = 2.75 liters.
> 
> It would be nice to know this stuff.....For example
> 
> 60 x 250 mm res ~ 575 ml
> 10mm tubing ~ 2.2 ml / inch
> Model ABC GPU Block ~ 40 ml
> Model DEF CPU Block ~ 25 ml
> 
> Would be easy enuff to measure ya stuff as you do a build using a kitchen measuring cup .... have to grab a 100ml graduated cylinder for more accuracy. Next time I do a build will start a thread.....though I have to say, didn't get much participation on the GFX Card Dimensions thread last time we tried to create an OCN DB of that info..
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1437498/data-resource-for-wcers-gfx-card-dimensions


No, a 480 as was asked about.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ole12*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> This question goes for mayhems or any other who use bitspower fittings with mayhems pastel.
> I've been running mayhems pastel white with bitspower fittings for a total of 18 months (with changing of tube and coolant every 6months or so, I've changed it 3 times in that 18 month time)
> 
> I just have dissembled the water cooling loop, and after cleaning and inspecting every component, I've notice that the coating inside the bitspower fittings have been worn out.
> The pictures are posted in my own thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1472785/worn-out-bp-fittings/
> 
> I have talked to my supplier about the fittings, and he told me that it is the nano fluid (all the small particles), that basically polish the fittings to that degree that the coating will start wearing off. By the fact that the fittings looks polished, which is not the case when they are brand new.


Thats is correct over time things will become polished. Normally this is called wear and tear of a system and the polishing action is due to it being a closed loop. Even water over time will ware down a system as this is a natural effect of water. We use bits power fittings out self in a Pastel build that has been running for 2 years and haven't noticed any degradation of the fittings.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Colour changes are normally down to the rad releasing contaminants into the system over time. When heat is applied this is when you start getting colour changes. We have noted that some manufacturers do not clean there rads very well before sending them to re-sellers or customers. This is not our fault how ever we have been working on a cleaning system that will resolve the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> @Mayhems-
> 
> I am 99.9% confident that this loop did not have any radiator contaminants and that it was properly cleaned before use. My PC was built by num1son here on the forum (the PC is actually the Erakith Tribute Build), and I believe Mayhems partially sponsored the build by supplying the coolant. I'm thinking you guys have to have confidence that he has the ability to properly use your product- else you probably wouldn't have provided any product for the build. I'm no expert, but the loop would have to have been rather filthy to cause such a significant color change in such a short amount of time. I highly doubt this is the issue here.
> 
> I'm not sure if your post was a direct reply to my post, but I'm really not satisfied with that explanation. I hope you guys can help resolve my issue.
Click to expand...

So you "WON" the erakith tribute built . So the questions are as follows ...

Did you personally clean and fill the system, if so, how?


----------



## Mayhem

@whitie63

Your New Mayhems Blitz Cleaning system is in the post with replacement coolants that you bought. Once they arrive lets us all know and please keep everyone informed on here about how the cleaning system has gone.

Thank you

Mick




Im off on my hols for two weeks now .. see you all when i get back


----------



## Kokin

^ Enjoy your vacation!


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> So you "WON" the erakith tribute built . So the questions are as follows ...
> 
> Did you personally clean and fill the system, if so, how?


After receiving the PC with the loop drained I flushed the system with distilled water by filling and draining it twice. I then followed the instructions on the bottle to fill the loop with the Pastel fluid.

I think I did my due diligence in making sure the loop was clear and ready to go.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> After receiving the PC with the loop drained I flushed the system with distilled water by filling and draining it twice. I then followed the instructions on the bottle to fill the loop with the Pastel fluid.
> 
> I think I did my due diligence in making sure the loop was clear and ready to go.


if im changing coolants, i always flush with at least 1 whole gallon of water, then i run either a bicarb mix or primochills sysprep for another gallon. not sure if this is overkill or if its not enough, but its worked well for me, and i tend to change coolants and colors often.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> if im changing coolants, i always flush with at least 1 whole gallon of water, then i run either a bicarb mix or primochills sysprep for another gallon. not sure if this is overkill or if its not enough, but its worked well for me, and i tend to change coolants and colors often.


The loop was previously filled with the same coolant- Pastel Sunset Yellow. This loop is rather large and filling and draining it 2x did use nearly a gallon of distilled water. I don't think there was any mention of testing pH in the instructions. If the coolant is this susceptible to slight changes in pH, maybe a recommendation should be added?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> if im changing coolants, i always flush with at least 1 whole gallon of water, then i run either a bicarb mix or primochills sysprep for another gallon. not sure if this is overkill or if its not enough, but its worked well for me, and i tend to change coolants and colors often.


So far I ran sysprep on all my components for 8 hours and have had no issues (I flushed with DI and had a filter in my flush setup)


----------



## lowfat

Better pics of my green. Now that I've seen it in sunlight it matches the pcb pretty closely.



http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-20.jpg.html


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I ran the loop completely sealed for a few days whilst the system was off. I then used the system for the remaining 4 days of the week. After 1 week, the bubbles and micro bubbles had gone. I thought they would never go. They just kept on coming. They would sit in my tubing. Thousands of tiny little micro bubbles.
> 
> The first day I filled up the loop. I left the pump running. I then cycled the pump (turn off and on several times for a little while). I then lifted the system up, turn it on it's head a few times and so on, but those bubbles would not die. I decided to leave the pump on for days on end. Every so often I would remove the cap on the res. I would hear a lot of air escape every time I did this. I repeated this process. I also tapped on the tubing to help air move along. After a week, all was good, and the level in my res had reduced which means it replaced the trapped air. So I filled up once more and I've been running for 3 months no issues.


Just as a side note, in case this isn't a "given" for everyone, how fast they go out won't matter much if you create more. If you have a "free fall" discharge into your res, you cab create bubbles. I ran my res for a week on DW w/o a fill tube as I only had the single port top....while waiting the multi-top to arrive, I actually enjoyed the look of the bubbles created with the discharge into the tube free falling about an inch. Most of these were large bubbles which traveled about 1/3 - 1/2 way down the tube before buoyancy effect became stronger than momentum and they rose to the surface. Still was some tiny bubbles which stuck to the side tho none seemed to make it into the outlet as tubing was clear.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No, a 480 as was asked about.


If there was a '480" in the post, I wudn't have made a "dumbass" outta myself.... I scanned the post looking for 240 / 360 / 480 and just teh 120 registered..... old man eyeballs went past the word "quad" a cupla times I guess .... can I blame failing eyesight or early alzheimers ? ..... nah, think I'll just stick with dumbass


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Better pics of my green. Now that I've seen it in sunlight it matches the pcb pretty closely.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-20.jpg.html


Awesome!! Really nice match!!


----------



## |-Goku-|

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *|-Goku-|*
> 
> So, I currently use the X1 and really like it. I'm considering the Aurora. Can anyone tell me, with the improved aurora, it is to much to have a ST30 360mm, XT45 240mm, EK Supremacy CPU, EK, Motherboard block, and XSPC Razor with an Adjustable D5 pump?
> 
> Thanks


Anyone?


----------



## Kamtzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *|-Goku-|*
> 
> Anyone?


Whats your res?


----------



## |-Goku-|

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamtzy*
> 
> Whats your res?


It is an Alphacool Tube res. mounted vertically.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @whitie63
> 
> Your New Mayhems Blitz Cleaning system is in the post with replacement coolants that you bought. Once they arrive lets us all know and please keep everyone informed on here about how the cleaning system has gone.
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Mick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im off on my hols for two weeks now .. see you all when i get back


@Mick

Will do! will post pictures of the hole process i'm very curious to see what comes out of my rads with step one.
system before .





*Thank you* for the chance to test product for you Chris


----------



## Supacasey

Is it normal for Pastel Ice White to sort of separate from the distilled water if it's been sitting for a while? If I let my comp sit for a couple days, I can see at the top of the res there's a sort of separation between the color and the liquid. When I turn it on there's a sort of initial visible swirl as it mixes back together.


----------



## lowfat

This is normal w/ an pastels. The more diluted the coolant the more it will separate some people have said.


----------



## Supacasey

Thanks, I'm assuming that means it's not harmful in any way then.


----------



## montymole

Mayhems Pastel Red from my last build


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supacasey*
> 
> Is it normal for Pastel Ice White to sort of separate from the distilled water if it's been sitting for a while? If I let my comp sit for a couple days, I can see at the top of the res there's a sort of separation between the color and the liquid. When I turn it on there's a sort of initial visible swirl as it mixes back together.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supacasey*
> 
> Thanks, I'm assuming that means it's not harmful in any way then.


It's normal, and no it's not harmful in any way shape or form. Absolute worst case scenario the particles could get caught in all the nooks and crannies causing the pastel to look diluted, but this won't effect performance or safety at all. It's not common for pastel to have issues with particles falling out of suspension from what I've seen, but it's not to say it will never happen.


----------



## |-Goku-|

If I use my current XSPC Raystorm waterblock with Aurora, it says to just make sure that the fins are straight. So, I don't need to remove the little plate that is inside the block?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Better pics of my green. Now that I've seen it in sunlight it matches the pcb pretty closely.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-20.jpg.html


Great green coloring on the fluid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supacasey*
> 
> Is it normal for Pastel Ice White to sort of separate from the distilled water if it's been sitting for a while? If I let my comp sit for a couple days, I can see at the top of the res there's a sort of separation between the color and the liquid. When I turn it on there's a sort of initial visible swirl as it mixes back together.


Yes it is. Pastel is a nano fluid which means it has nano particles in suspension. Without constant flow or movement the particles will eventually fall out of suspension. Starting up your motor and running for a minute should kick all the particles back into suspension pretty quick. Nothing to worry about


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Just as a followup.....my son's been away for a week and he sat down to use my puter today and went "Wow, did you change the fluid, it's much darker"...... So I wasn't going crazy..... it did undergo a significant change is last few days.... from bright red, perty close to Mushkin / RoG Red to more of a rusty mauve color

No noticeable change after 4 months and then .... boom ..... in a week a noticeable darkening......thought it was just me.

-No change in room temps as yet
-Two bottles of Mayhems Red Pastel + two 15ml bottles of red dye
-No tubing issues and loop is 10/12 mm acrylic with just two 2-3" sections of Tygon 2475 for vibration isolation at pump
-Alphacool Rads ....other components in siggie
-No fluid added since 1st day Mayhems in loop
-Only significant change since before color change is ran water temps up close to 40C and CPU temps to 84C by running a test with rad fans off. Doesn't seem logical as I have hit 36-37 in previous low rpm tests., but can't think of anything else.

-Tap water flush with "shakie, shakie" treatment to get any flotsam / jetsam out
-Two six hours treatments, acidic (vinegar) and base (baking soda) solutions of rads with tap water flush between
-Tap water flush for 20 minutes, @ 5 gpm flow, alternating hot and cold on each rad individually
-Two fills with DW, followed by drain
-Filled loop with DW and ran for a week
-Full drain, (collected 1.9L) double DW flush
-Installed Mahems / DW mix

Suggestions / remedies welcome


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *|-Goku-|*
> 
> If I use my current XSPC Raystorm waterblock with Aurora, it says to just make sure that the fins are straight. So, I don't need to remove the little plate that is inside the block?


You shouldn't remove that plate or else your performance is going to drop pretty significantly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Suggestions / remedies welcome


Have you checked it with a bright LED flashlight or out in the sun?

You prepped it properly and maintained it pretty well. I highly doubt the 40C water temp would affect the colors, but maybe others may have something else to say.


----------



## |-Goku-|

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> You shouldn't remove that plate or else your performance is going to drop pretty significantly.
> Have you checked it with a bright LED flashlight or out in the sun?
> 
> You prepped it properly and maintained it pretty well. I highly doubt the 40C water temp would affect the colors, but maybe others may have something else to say.


So, the plate shouldn't cause any issues with the Aurora then?


----------



## stickg1

With Aurora, just keep in consideration that something in any loop could potentially grab particles. Maybe it will, maybe it wont, considering none of us HAVE the new Aurora, and while Mayhems tests a bunch of parts with it, he can't test every single part in every single loop configuration possible, it's impossible to say "Yes it will work with your loop for a year with no problems at all."


----------



## |-Goku-|

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> With Aurora, just keep in consideration that something in any loop could potentially grab particles. Maybe it will, maybe it wont, considering none of us HAVE the new Aurora, and while Mayhems tests a bunch of parts with it, he can't test every single part in every single loop configuration possible, it's impossible to say "Yes it will work with your loop for a year with no problems at all."


I'm still debating on aurora. I use the X1 stuff now, and have no problems with it.

I just don't want to go through the hassle of running vinegar and such through my loop, then cleaning all that out for it to may or may not work. With my current loop, I just ran DI through it, and drained it, and have not had any problems.

The setup would now be, XSPC RX360, XSPC Raystorm CPU, XSPC Razor GPU block, and D5 Adjustable pump, and Alphacool Tube reservoir.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> You shouldn't remove that plate or else your performance is going to drop pretty significantly.
> Have you checked it with a bright LED flashlight or out in the sun?
> 
> You prepped it properly and maintained it pretty well. I highly doubt the 40C water temp would affect the colors, but maybe others may have something else to say.


I doubt it myself....so much so that I doubted my own eyes .... 2 -3 C should not affect anything.....but it's been in the same spot for 4 months and for it to have such a noticeable change in a week is just weird. Case has interior bright white LED lighting so background lighting is good. 250 ml res isn't full so can easily see no film on side walls. I'm stumped.

It would be nice if it could bet determined whatever is causing this as if it is a precipitate, it cold perhaps be filtered by using lab grade filter paper of specific size.... bigger than the nano particles and smaller than the particulate.


----------



## stickg1

Well I ran out of clean X1 so "Purple Drank" has found it's way back into my loop for testing purposes! Looks pretty good though IMO. I just like purple though


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Well I ran out of clean X1 so "Purple Drank" has found it's way back into my loop for testing purposes! Looks pretty good though IMO. I just like purple though


I see you swapped out the case too. I must have missed you doin that before


----------



## stickg1

Yeah i switched a few things around. Working on a new build, log is in my sig!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah i switched a few things around. Working on a new build, log is in my sig!


Nicely done. Welcome back to using a full loop again.


----------



## BradleyW

I need a bit of help please.
I seem to have what looks like Algae in my loop. I have been using Mayhems X1 for 3 months.
I've also got what appears to be rust in my Swiftech Res. More specifically, one of the blacking plugs. It looks like rust anyway, and it's very very small!
Anyway, here an image of the Algae (I think it is Algae. Does look a bit green).



Edit:
The tubing also has a little bit of algae here and there. I looked at my water blocks and I can't see any rust or algae at all! My rads and blocks are copper!


----------



## stickg1

What type of tubing? I don't really see any algae, it does look a little cloudy though.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What type of tubing? I don't really see any algae, it does look a little cloudy though.




The liquid is a little murky...and in the area highlighted, the smears you see are green. Just wondering if that was a bit of algae.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Here's an update image of my rig running the UV Emerald Green in primochill UV blue tubing.
> 
> I'm going to try and get some night shots this weekend.
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_1435_zpsf1f4c980.jpg.html
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_1436_zps83c843f5.jpg.html
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mavisky/media/IMG_1437_zps0d088a90.jpg.html
> 
> The lines look a dark blue'ish green in daylight. Looking to replace the CCFL tubes with some powerful led's uv LED's though to really make the blue and green pop at day and at night.


.

Which reservoir is that?


----------



## VSG

Looks like the Swiftech microres: http://www.swiftech.com/mcresmicrorev2reservoir.aspx


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> .
> 
> Which reservoir is that?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like the Swiftech microres: http://www.swiftech.com/mcresmicrorev2reservoir.aspx


That is correct.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I need a bit of help please.
> I seem to have what looks like Algae in my loop. I have been using Mayhems X1 for 3 months.
> I've also got what appears to be rust in my Swiftech Res. More specifically, one of the blacking plugs. It looks like rust anyway, and it's very very small!
> Anyway, here an image of the Algae (I think it is Algae. Does look a bit green).
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> The tubing also has a little bit of algae here and there. I looked at my water blocks and I can't see any rust or algae at all! My rads and blocks are copper!


I doubt it's algae. I had some heavily diluted X1 clear in my loop for upwards of two years and didn't have any issues with it. What type of tubing did you use? Could be plasticizers. What did you use to flush your loop before filling it, if anything.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I doubt it's algae. I had some heavily diluted X1 clear in my loop for upwards of two years and didn't have any issues with it. What type of tubing did you use? Could be plasticizers. What did you use to flush your loop before filling it, if anything.


I use this tubing:
http://www.primochill.com/product/primoflex-advanced-lrt/
As for flushing, I used distilled on the tubing, Res and all waterblocks.
I flushed the Rads with heated tap water several times, followed by a few distilled flushes.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I use this tubing:
> http://www.primochill.com/product/primoflex-advanced-lrt/
> As for flushing, I used distilled on the tubing, Res and all waterblocks.
> I flushed the Rads with heated tap water several times, followed by a few distilled flushes.


That's really odd then. I'd give it a couple weeks and see if anything changes. After that if it gets any worse I'd contact mayhems customer support. Maybe you got a bad batch or something.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> That's really odd then. I'd give it a couple weeks and see if anything changes. After that if it gets any worse I'd contact mayhems customer support. Maybe you got a bad batch or something.


If it was plasticiser, how do I remove it from the inside of a RAD? And Algae for that matter?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> If it was plasticiser, how do I remove it from the inside of a RAD? And Algae for that matter?


If you used Advanced LRT it shouldn't be plasticizers, moreover if it was plasticizers your tubing would look like a yellow/brown or a blue/green haze depending on which tubing. If it's algae I like lemon juice as my go to cleaner, just need to flush with a sodium bicarbonate after using acids in the loop.

Again, I'd give it a couple weeks and see what happens.


----------



## Mullinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If you used Advanced LRT it shouldn't be plasticizers, moreover if it was plasticizers your tubing would look like a yellow/brown or a blue/green haze depending on which tubing. If it's algae I like lemon juice as my go to cleaner, just need to flush with a sodium bicarbonate after using acids in the loop.
> 
> Again, I'd give it a couple weeks and see what happens.


This statement is definitely true based on my experience....I always use the Advanced LRT tubing and I did unfortunately get a bad batch once. Yet it was easily noticeable with the "yellowing" color of the tubing. So your issue may be something else unfortunately.

EDIT: Also something I forgot to mention I've solely been using Mayhem's Pastel for about three years now, and Ice Dragon's nano coolant before that and neither of them have given me issues.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If you used Advanced LRT it shouldn't be plasticizers, moreover if it was plasticizers your tubing would look like a yellow/brown or a blue/green haze depending on which tubing. If it's algae I like lemon juice as my go to cleaner, just need to flush with a sodium bicarbonate after using acids in the loop.
> 
> Again, I'd give it a couple weeks and see what happens.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mullinz*
> 
> This statement is definitely true based on my experience....I always use the Advanced LRT tubing and I did unfortunately get a bad batch once. Yet it was easily noticeable with the "yellowing" color of the tubing. So your issue may be something else unfortunately.


I can't tell if my tubing is yellow tbh. It "looks" a little bit cloudy overall. Not sure if that's the tubing or the X1.
I plan to clean the loop at the end of May. I also plan to buy fresh tubing, more X1 and a new Res. So, how much lemon and sodium bicarbonate is needed per Rad to ensure they are as clean as a whistle?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I can't tell if my tubing is yellow tbh. It "looks" a little bit cloudy overall. Not sure if that's the tubing or the X1.
> I plan to clean the loop at the end of May. I also plan to buy fresh tubing, more X1 and a new Res. So, how much lemon and sodium bicarbonate is needed per Rad to ensure they are as clean as a whistle?


One part lemon juice:Three parts hot water for the cleaner.
One table spoon of baking soda to every liter of water for the bicarb.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> One part lemon juice:Three parts hot water for the cleaner.
> One table spoon of baking soda to every liter of water for the bicarb.


Thank you.


----------



## Aemonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> One part lemon juice:Three parts hot water for the cleaner.
> One table spoon of baking soda to every liter of water for the bicarb.


With these mixtures do you just rinse through or let it sit for a bit? Not performing maintenance currently but I'm going to store this info away for a rainy day!


----------



## 15goudreau

I think you should let it sit for like...5 minutes or so? If you have a spare pump you could just run it for a period of time and then install it I would assume.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aemonn*
> 
> With these mixtures do you just rinse through or let it sit for a bit? Not performing maintenance currently but I'm going to store this info away for a rainy day!


Personally I just set up the loop next to my sink and let it run in a loop for a few minutes, the components are all out of my loop anyways..... I haven't tried it just by letting it sit, but it would probably work all the same you just might need to play the maracas with it and shake it up.


----------



## stickg1

I wasn't able to achieve the color I wanted with my X1, mostly because I had to use the X1 Clear that I had previously dyed purple for a previous build to fill up my loop.

I was going to order more but I remembered I have an entire bottle of XT-1 in possession. I know it's meant for sub-ambient but could I use it just as regular ambient air coolant? And how much do I dilute it? Would it have any negative effects with a system that's been running X1 and contains brass, copper, and nickel?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I wasn't able to achieve the color I wanted with my X1, mostly because I had to use the X1 Clear that I had previously dyed purple for a previous build to fill up my loop.
> 
> I was going to order more but I remembered I have an entire bottle of XT-1 in possession. I know it's meant for sub-ambient but could I use it just as regular ambient air coolant? And how much do I dilute it? Would it have any negative effects with a system that's been running X1 and contains brass, copper, and nickel?


XT-1 works fine at normal temps. 5% XT-1 is the minimum concentration if i remember correctly, it will also have a LOT of corrosion protection, so not it shouldn't have problems with those metals, in fact it should prevent problems with those metals. XD


----------



## stickg1

Okay so if my loop takes about 2000mL then I would need 100mL of XT-1 minimum?


----------



## stickg1

If there were a small trace of X1 coolant left in the loop would that cause problems? I can drain my loop about 95% with ease. That last little bit requires me to break it all down.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> If there were a small trace of X1 coolant left in the loop would that cause problems? I can drain my loop about 95% with ease. That last little bit requires me to break it all down.


I wouldn't think it would be an issue, as long as there isn't any CuSo4 left over in the loop from a previous fill so if you used I&H Deadwater, PT Nuke, Mayhems Biocide Extreme, or any of those copper sulphate things I'd do a thorough flush before adding XT1. Yeah 100ml would probably be sufficient for 2 liters, though were I you I'd throw in the entire 150ml bottle because why not.


----------



## stickg1

Hmm okay well I overestimated how much coolant I needed. I did 2500mL of DI with the 150mL bottle of XT-1 and used about half of it filling the loop. Then I added Ocean Blue dye until I got the color I wanted. Looks pretty good!

If/when I decide to match the coolant to the fan blades it looks like I will need White Pastel and Blue dye. Ocean blue has a little green to it, a beautiful color but not for this application.


----------



## VSG

Why are you going from X-1 to XT-1?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why are you going from X-1 to XT-1?


The X1 was too purple because I had to mix it to get a full loop with stuff I had already used. The XT-1 was just sitting there so I decided to use it and start with a blank canvas.


----------



## hftjmac

Alright so I am planning a dual loop build and was thinking it might be really cool if in one loop I used clear UV blue and in the other I somehow made a clear UV green or something like that. Does anybody know if here is some way to do this or if it could possibly be made in the future as it will be a few months before I will start this build.


----------



## M3TAl

Aren't there bay reservoirs specifically for dual loops?


----------



## hftjmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Aren't there bay reservoirs specifically for dual loops?


Yeah im not questioning about that im questioning about the possibility of making a clear uv green coolant similar to the clear uv blue one.


----------



## BenjaminBenj

Great post, extremely informative... thank you for taking the time to write it! Answered 100% of my Mayhem-related questions. I ordered UV Pink recently, and am looking forward to blending it with my UV tubing... Thanks!


----------



## Shoxyasoxoff

Just filled up my new build. Mayhems pastel mint green. Still a little work left to do. Some MDPC sleeving and some better pics.


----------



## kizwan

I need help again. Which colour look better in my rig, other than (Pastel) Blue Berry I currently have in there? I'm thinking white, black or pale blue. What do you guys think?


----------



## ADragg

I don't know why you would do anything different. The Blue Berry already matches your motherboard and fan rings perfectly. But white would be awesome if you were going to do it as a theme and give it the works (sleeving, painting things like RAM, screws, etc. Even some white carbon fiber wrap accents). But just simply changing to any different color won't look so great, IMO. You need things to tie in a new color. And BTW, do you have plans already to paint/Plasti-Dip that red rad?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hftjmac*
> 
> Alright so I am planning a dual loop build and was thinking it might be really cool if in one loop I used clear UV blue and in the other I somehow made a clear UV green or something like that. Does anybody know if here is some way to do this or if it could possibly be made in the future as it will be a few months before I will start this build.


Don't think there is a clear/UV green. Not really a way for you to make by hand either. Haven't heard any plans for them to make it either.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> I don't know why you would do anything different. The Blue Berry already matches your motherboard and fan rings perfectly. But white would be awesome if you were going to do it as a theme and give it the works (sleeving, painting things like RAM, screws, etc. Even some white carbon fiber wrap accents). But just simply changing to any different color won't look so great, IMO. You need things to tie in a new color. And BTW, do you have plans already to paint/Plasti-Dip that red rad?


Closest you could get to clear/uv green would be Yellow/UV GREEN.

What I might recommend is use Mayhems Pastel White/UV Blue and Pastel Mint Green, or pastel white and mix your own green.

You just can't get clear/UV Green and I doubt it would be possible to utilize a yellow colour with clear/uv blue. From my experience UV blue doesn't mix well with other colours, the blue just overpowers it entirely when in the presence of UV light.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADragg*
> 
> I don't know why you would do anything different. The Blue Berry already matches your motherboard and fan rings perfectly. But white would be awesome if you were going to do it as a theme and give it the works (sleeving, painting things like RAM, screws, etc. Even some white carbon fiber wrap accents). But just simply changing to any different color won't look so great, IMO. You need things to tie in a new color. And BTW, do you have plans already to paint/Plasti-Dip that red rad?


Forgot to add that I'm going to change the motherboard to Asus Rampage IV Black Edition. I do have plan to paint the top radiator but not a top priority yet. I may change it to SR-1 360 radiator though.


----------



## iamkraine

Love my pastel Ice White


----------



## 15goudreau

yum...bananas and milk!


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> yum...bananas and milk!


LOL, the kitchen is the only room that has good natural lighting.


----------



## M4ng03z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Forgot to add that I'm going to change the motherboard to Asus Rampage IV Black Edition. I do have plan to paint the top radiator but not a top priority yet. I may change it to SR-1 360 radiator though.


I'd keep the rad that color then and go to red, black, or white (all pastel).


----------



## M4ng03z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> LOL, the kitchen is the only room that has good natural lighting.


I know that feel bro. It also has one of the few clean flat surfaces in my house.


----------



## Vapour1ze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> 
> 
> Love my pastel Ice White


Tube job looks superb!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Love the ice white pastel's coloring/look, reminds me of Bishop's fluid in Alien 3


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M4ng03z*
> 
> I know that feel bro. It also has one of the few clean flat surfaces in my house.


We all know that feel bro.
I'm also temped to try that while colour. Looks like milk running through the system.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @whitie63
> 
> Your New Mayhems Blitz Cleaning system is in the post with replacement coolants that you bought. Once they arrive lets us all know and please keep everyone informed on here about how the cleaning system has gone.
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Mick


@Mick

the box did arrive today with all the goods safe and sound








*The Box*

*The box inside the box stuffed with foam*

*The goods*

*The Mayhems Blitz cleaning kit*


It will be a week or so before I can get to the cleaning I have a few things I need to take care of first.
#1 install a Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow'
#2 tear down my whole system so I can polish my EK blocks with 2000 grit
#3 Rotate my cpu block with the exit port at the top to make air removal easier this 900D is just to heavy to turn on its top
#4 Bend A new pipe for the cpu block
then I will be ready to clean and fill with new fluid









And yes I will follow every step and every step of the cleaning with pictures and comments.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M4ng03z*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Forgot to add that I'm going to change the motherboard to Asus Rampage IV Black Edition. I do have plan to paint the top radiator but not a top priority yet. I may change it to SR-1 360 radiator though.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd keep the rad that color then and go to red, black, or white (all pastel).
Click to expand...

Bummer!







All colour that I'm considering are OOS. @Mayhem, please send a lot of Pastel to Malaysia asap.


----------



## Mayhem

@whitie63 has that leaked







. Its only the demo so not the end packing but it should have not leaked as i checked it before taking it down to the shipping team. ;/


----------



## VSG

Where are you seeing it leak? He said it arrived safely.


----------



## Mayhem

well the no "1" is missing on the right side also the plastic looks like it has stuck to bottle 1 making me think it looks like its leaked.


----------



## 15goudreau

I think it's the flash Mick. I think it's perfectly fine


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> well the no "1" is missing on the right side also the plastic looks like it has stuck to bottle 1 making me think it looks like its leaked.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @whitie63 has that leaked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its only the demo so not the end packing but it should have not leaked as i checked it before taking it down to the shipping team. ;/


@ Mick

sorry was watching tv and missed this no i cant tell that it has it looks fine and dry in side


----------



## d00bzilla

Just made an account to say thank you to Mayhem. Awesome products man! really took a blah build and made it something a little more special. This is the pastel blueberry. must be some funny lighting because the XSPC CPU block and VGA block should be blue but is showing up purple. in real light they match up beautifully. maybe tomorrow i'll try and get a better photo when i put in my new SSD. keep up the good work!


----------



## stickg1

How are your temps with the CPU and GPU running on what looks like a slim 240mm?


----------



## d00bzilla

Intel i5 4670k @ 4.4Ghz
GTX 780

CPU idle - 28c
CPU Arma 3 highest settings - 45c
CPU prime95 - 77c

GPU idle - 29c
GPU playing BF3 highest settings - 37c

i just wanted as silent a computer as i could because it runs 24/7 in my bedroom and i love my sleep. you can barely hear this thing run from 5 feet away. the p280 isn't exactly the roomiest case either but it has good sound dampening looks classy when closed up.

my almighty iphone 5s really doesn't like to shoot blue in low light :\


----------



## theonedub

I didn't see a reply to my issue. It's a little disconcerting that the only replies so far have either passed the buck and blamed other manufacturers or insinuated user error. I'd love some actual support from you guys, but the silent treatment really makes me feel nothing is coming.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> So you "WON" the erakith tribute built . So the questions are as follows ...
> 
> Did you personally clean and fill the system, if so, how?


After receiving the PC with the loop drained I flushed the system with distilled water by filling and draining it twice. I then followed the instructions on the bottle to fill the loop with the Pastel fluid.

I think I did my due diligence in making sure the loop was clear and ready to go.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I didn't see a reply to my issue. It's a little disconcerting that the only replies so far have either passed the buck and blamed other manufacturers or insinuated user error. I'd love some actual support from you guys, but the silent treatment really makes me feel nothing is coming.
> After receiving the PC with the loop drained I flushed the system with distilled water by filling and draining it twice. I then followed the instructions on the bottle to fill the loop with the Pastel fluid.
> 
> I think I did my due diligence in making sure the loop was clear and ready to go.


Mayhems has been on a two week vacation, so that's probably why you haven't heard from him.

What was in the loop before you flushed, more specifically had there ever been any CuSo4, aka copper sulphate based biocides, lemon juice for cleaning, or vinegar? Lower pH levels can cause discoloration of pastel. Usually flushing with distilled isn't enough to wash out any acids before filling with pastel, usually you have to flush with a bicarb otherwise traces of the acids or whatever was lowing the pH can mess with it.

Sorry you haven't gotten any help, so much activity goes through here that things often get lost in mass posts. XD


----------



## theonedub

He posted a few hours ago.

Nothing was in this loop prior to pastels except more pastels (exact same color).


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> He posted a few hours ago.
> 
> Nothing was in this loop prior to pastels except more pastels (exact same color).


He posted, but he's not working so it was in his off time. I doubt the first thing on his mind during vacation is customer support, but when someone you sent a prototype to receives it and it looks potentially damaged that might be a good enough reason to pay some attention.

Anyways, that's really odd then. A few things for trouble shooting: What rads are you using, and what tubing are you using? Could be radiator flux or plasticizers. If it's just a bad batch Mayhems most always replaces it, even if it's NOT a bad batch. XD

So yeah, get back to us with those two bits of info and we can troubleshoot.


----------



## Mayhem

@theonedub no offence but you seem to be answering your own questions. You flushed with only water. You do not know if they system was cleaned beforehand.

Now ive looked at what is in the build for you and you rads are normally fine with our liquids (EK H30 360 HFX Rad x 2) how ever i can only suggest that you clean and flush your system out and check the PH levels. Once you have done this let us know what the PH levels are and we can see how we can help. There is no point in sending you more liquids for it to change colours again unless a proper system flush has been done.

As for system flushing we have / are developing an excellent system flush system that will take your system to PH Neutral.

Mick


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Is the Mayhems Pastel Red a light red or a darker blood red color? I seem to be seeing varying types of pastel red online.

Also, what causes mayhem ice white to turn a blue/green color? Is it rust/oxidation from a copper radiator? If so, what's the best way to remove the oxidation and flush it from the system so that it doesn't turn the coolant blue/green again?


----------



## BradleyW

@ Mayhem (Mick)

Could you comment on my previous set of posts please?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/5560
Thanks man!


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Is the Mayhems Pastel Red a light red or a darker blood red color? I seem to be seeing varying types of pastel red online.
> 
> Also, what causes mayhem ice white to turn a blue/green color? Is it rust/oxidation from a copper radiator? If so, what's the best way to remove the oxidation and flush it from the system so that it doesn't turn the coolant blue/green again?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


pH imbalance. The flux and solder from radiators can make your coolant change colours. The way to fix this is by cleaning out your radiators before they are installed. Mayhem is producing a cleaning kit, but for right now flush with water. Then mix baking soda(Sodium Bicarbonate) with DI water, rinse your radiators with that. And then flush with DI water a couple of times. Should restore you loop to a pH of 7. You can always get a pH tester kit and see what yours is and get an idea of what's going on. Hope that answers your question


----------



## Mayhem

@BradleyW i wish i could answer you but with out samples on hand i would only be second guessing and thats not good to do ;/. Dont forget Coolants work by picking up contaminants and suspending them and stopping them spreading. So if you system is contaminated it will suspend the contamination and stop it spreading which will show up in you res. So in all essence the coolant is doing its job.

@Syan48306 the red looks different under different light. Some users add more Red dye to darken it off.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @BradleyW i wish i could answer you but with out samples on hand i would only be second guessing and thats not good to do ;/. Dont forget Coolants work by picking up contaminants and suspending them and stopping them spreading. So if you system is contaminated it will suspend the contamination and stop it spreading which will show up in you res. So in all essance the coolant is doing its job.


Thanks for the reply mate. I wonder how (if) contaminants got into the system? I was extremely careful to ensure everything was cleaned/flushed over and over using the correct products and methods. Also, another question, is Mayhems a British Company?


----------



## Mayhem

@BradleyW Yes we are a British company. As for where the contaminants have come from sometimes they are from the rad how ever its impossible to say unless the system was there in front of me ;/.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @BradleyW Yes we are a British company. As for where the contaminants have come from sometimes they are from the rad how ever its *impossible to say unless the system was there in front of me* ;/.


Fair enough. Thanks for the support you have given me.


----------



## hftjmac

Mayhem, I was wondering if it is possible for a clear/uv green to be made or if you guys have any plans to do this in the future. Thanks.


----------



## Mayhem

you mean invisible UV Green . yes it is possible how ever very expensive and we have had samples ready to for a while how ever the price alone is the killer and just not worth the money to do in bulk.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> you mean invisible UV Green . yes it is possible how ever very expensive and we have had samples ready to for a while how ever the price alone is the killer and just not worth the money to do in bulk.


What would be the price point on that? I mean @ $10 for 15ml dyes are pretty cheap, I could see anything between current prices and $30 being an acceptable for an invisible UV dye, just because clear/uv dyes are neat.


----------



## BenjaminBenj

I can't seem to find their post, but someone asked about how the UV pink looked in action. Just took a pic of mine if interested... hope it helps!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenjaminBenj*
> 
> I can't seem to find their post, but someone asked about how the UV pink looked in action. Just took a pic of mine if interested... hope it helps!


Looks like strawberry soda. Can I drink your coolant?


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Is the Mayhems Pastel Red a light red or a darker blood red color? I seem to be seeing varying types of pastel red online.
> 
> Also, what causes mayhem ice white to turn a blue/green color? Is it rust/oxidation from a copper radiator? If so, what's the best way to remove the oxidation and flush it from the system so that it doesn't turn the coolant blue/green again?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pH imbalance. The flux and solder from radiators can make your coolant change colours. The way to fix this is by cleaning out your radiators before they are installed. Mayhem is producing a cleaning kit, but for right now flush with water. Then mix baking soda(Sodium Bicarbonate) with DI water, rinse your radiators with that. And then flush with DI water a couple of times. Should restore you loop to a pH of 7. You can always get a pH tester kit and see what yours is and get an idea of what's going on. Hope that answers your question
Click to expand...

The radiators were thoroughly rinsed before this. Over the course of a year it turned blue/green. I actually tested the ph of the coolant before and it was a relatively neutral solution. I heard that air pockets in radiators can cause this.


----------



## BenjaminBenj

Haha =) first time to hear that one... sure, come on over!







Lol.

I was really quite happy with the UV reactive component of this pink Mayhem fluid... amazing stuff. I originally had UV blue, but really wasn't happy with how it looked in UV color tubing. The pink shows through perfectly!


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> The radiators were thoroughly rinsed before this. Over the course of a year it turned blue/green. I actually tested the ph of the coolant before and it was a relatively neutral solution. I heard that air pockets in radiators can cause this.


Hard to say then..Either it could be potentially a bad batch of Mayhem's or something else was left over in the loop. How thorough were you in flushing your radiators. Those with the best results have actually made their own filtration system with a home filter thing and a water pump, and they run it through a 5 gal bucket of water for like 5 hours. They usually say there is a lot of buildup in the filter afterwards.

Unless you took pH readings before and after it would be hard to say though. I've never heard anything about the air pockets in the radiator, I'm not sure why that would make a difference. Unless it was some sort of oxidation....Maybe if you had copper radiators and enough air to tarnish it, it would turn a white coolant green... kinda like the statue of liberty


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> A lot, lol. Your best bet is to fill your loop with distilled water, drain it into a gallon jug, and measure out exactly how much coolant your entire loop has rather than estimating.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> A UT60 holds about 500ml, a monsta will hold a bit more.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Really ....just a single 120mm ? Are the little reservoirs holding that much as just the tubes wud seem to be a lot less. I was just doing some math in my nead when I read your answer....I was assuming 150ml for the end portions, .... at 500ml for the whole shebang, that would leave 350ml per 120mm.
> 
> With a 480 + 360 ...... (350 x 7) + (2 x 150) = 2.75 liters.
> 
> It would be nice to know this stuff.....For example
> 
> 60 x 250 mm res ~ 575 ml
> 10mm tubing ~ 2.2 ml / inch
> Model ABC GPU Block ~ 40 ml
> Model DEF CPU Block ~ 25 ml
> 
> Would be easy enuff to measure ya stuff as you do a build using a kitchen measuring cup .... have to grab a 100ml graduated cylinder for more accuracy. Next time I do a build will start a thread.....though I have to say, didn't get much participation on the GFX Card Dimensions thread last time we tried to create an OCN DB of that info..
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1437498/data-resource-for-wcers-gfx-card-dimensions


okay I asked the question how much do my rads hold and I got a few pretty good close guesses but now that I have my system completely apart I can measure for myself yes I went and got me a milliliter measuring cup Walmart a buck okay my whole system holds 2550 milliliters


Alphacool ut60 480 will hold 550 milliliters


alphacool 480 monsta rad holds 700 milliliters


so there you have it problem solved


----------



## badkarma3059

Thats awesome. I was just wondering the other day what my 480's hold
+rep


----------



## whitie63

[quote name="Mayhem" url="/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/5620#post_21983905" i can only suggest that you clean and flush your system out and check the PH levels.
As for system flushing we have / are developing an excellent system flush system that will take your system to PH Neutral.

Mick[/quote]

@Mick

Mick as far as pH testing goes there are a few choices out there I chose one of the cheaper ones would just like your opinion as to whether it will work on your pastels I'm pretty sure it would work on Di water being as it is for freshwater have a look let me know


and another thought comes to mind maybe you all could make a pH test kit or rebrand one and sell it just an idea I don't know but it seems as though pH is pretty important here be nice to have a kit you could trust for all liquids that you sell thanks Chris


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @theonedub no offence but you seem to be answering your own questions. You flushed with only water. You do not know if they system was cleaned beforehand.
> 
> Now ive looked at what is in the build for you and you rads are normally fine with our liquids (EK H30 360 HFX Rad x 2) how ever i can only suggest that you clean and flush your system out and check the PH levels. Once you have done this let us know what the PH levels are and we can see how we can help. There is no point in sending you more liquids for it to change colours again unless a proper system flush has been done.
> 
> As for system flushing we have / are developing an excellent system flush system that will take your system to PH Neutral.
> 
> Mick


If the coolant is this sensitive to pH, there should really be some sort of disclaimer on the bottle and/or instructions on the bottle that clearly advises to measure pH before adding to the loop. The instructions on the bottle under 'Before Using Pastel's' alludes that a 'proper' flush was to flush with water- it does not mention pH testing anywhere.

From my standpoint I got the product, followed the instructions provider by the manufacturer, and was left with results far from meeting the expectation set by the company. If you guys know that pH causes color changes like this and that the problem exists in large numbers of users (enough that it makes business sense to develop your new cleaning kit), that info needs to be clearly communicated to the end users so that issues like mine are prevented.

At this point I don't have the time or resources (pH strips) to drain my loop again, establish a perfect pH, and refill with more Pastels. I've already removed the faulty Pastels from my loop and have begun filling it with plain distilled and silver plugs.

Like I said before, I think I did my due diligence in prepping the loop given the instructions provided. At this point I would be fine with Mayhems sending me out a bottle of purple dye (assuming its not as pH sensitive as Pastels) that I can add to my fresh H2O loop.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> @theonedub Well maybe you need to learn about your system more. "All" coolants are affected by PH.
> 
> https://www.google.co.uk/#q=are+coolants+effected+by+PH or https://www.google.com/#q=are+coolants+effected+by+PH
> 
> A bit of light reading for you ...
> 
> http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/841/coolant-fundamentals
> http://www.examiner.com/article/coolant-testing-for-ph-and-mixture
> http://www.eutechinst.com/techtips/tech-tips10.htm
> http://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/antifreeze
> http://www.divelys.com/cool.htm
> http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pages/machine-coolant/machine-coolant-water-quality.html
> http://www.coolantmaintenance.com/techpapers_pdf/MS_coolant_fact_sheet.pdf
> http://www.optipro.com/community-opticsfabtechtips-waterquality.html
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze
> http://www.astm.org/Standards/D1287.htm
> 
> Maybe the basic fundamentals allude you and you need to learn your chosen hobby a bit more. You will not be getting any replacements from us sorry.. Consider the above information a free gift from us towards your understanding of your chosen hobby.


Quote:


> @whitie63 that method is fine we normally use cheap test strips our self for quick testing. We use our main Electrodes for in depth testing as they take time to clean. We are sourcing some cheap PH Electronic test meters right now that we can add to the cleaning kit so that it will not increase its value to much. We all ready include free test strips with our biocides.http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/biocide-extreme-10ml.html


----------



## lowfat

Been playing around w/ a bunch of different coolant colours in my polished and frosted supreme hf's.

Black pastel
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-97.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-43-3.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-42-3.jpg.html

Dark blue non-pastel
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-39-4.jpg.html

Royal blue pastel
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-40-3.jpg.html

dark green pastel
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-41-3.jpg.html

red and blue pastels
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-30-5.jpg.html


----------



## hftjmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> you mean invisible UV Green . yes it is possible how ever very expensive and we have had samples ready to for a while how ever the price alone is the killer and just not worth the money to do in bulk.


darn. Am planning a build with 2 loops and wanted to have one that was clear/ uv blue and the other that was clear/ uv green.


----------



## theonedub

@Mayhem

That has to be the most unprofessional reply I have ever received from a company. I don't expect to be talked to in such a condescending manner from a company representative. You guys can keep your coolant and dyes, I'm sticking to plain distilled and will make sure everyone I know is aware of your less than tactful replies to my legitimate concern.


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> That has to be the most unprofessional reply I have ever received from a company. I don't expect to be talked to in such a condescending manner from a company representative. You guys can keep your coolant and dyes, I'm sticking to plain distilled and will make sure everyone I know is aware of your less than tactful replies to my legitimate concern.


Somebody call this guy a wambulance. Bottom line you didn't do your homework. I had the same bottles you did with the same labels and I don't have any problems because I bothered to research the subject before I purchased and used the product.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*


@Mick

Mick you might put a warning on step 2 do not pour into a running system it makes a lot of bubbles


----------



## failwheeldrive

Mick you might want to put a warning label on the bottle so people know not to use it as automotive coolant, dish washing detergent, or an enema. I did my due diligence but now my car is broken and I'm in the hospital getting a colonoscopy. Please send me free stuff. Thanks!

lol


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Been playing around w/ a bunch of different coolant colours in my polished and frosted supreme hf's.
> 
> Dark blue non-pastel
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-39-4.jpg.html
> 
> red and blue pastels
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-30-5.jpg.html


That clear EK block is so









I can't figure out which I like more. Clear or Pastel


----------



## Mayhem

@whitie63 Yeh ill do that we know its creates a lot of bubbles ill advise of this. The bubbles go down slowly but over a few minutes and you right i should pre warn of it.

@failwheeldrive yeh i think your right with that. They don't get free stuff so im a bad rep lol.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

After running pastel ice white for about a year in a brand new loop, my coolant got a blue/green tint to it. When looking at the alphacool UT60 radiators, it looks like the copper is tarnishing on the inside. there are parts of the inside that still has the rosy copper color but the channels look like they've turned a gray/blue/green color. I'm thinking this is fairly normal but my coolant did pick up the blue/green color. I tested the pH was around the 6.5 to 7.5 ish range; nothing too far from ordinary.

Is it necessary and how should I clean out the radiators before filling it up with more pastel coolant for my next build? I've flushed the radiator with probably close 25 gallons tap water from the faucet and then followed up with a distilled water rinse. I'd imagine even if there were a pH imbalance, it'd be washed out.

The only components in the loop were a couple EK nickel water blocks, brass bitspower fittings, and full copper alphacool radiators.


----------



## BradleyW

Green is oxidation.
Other colours may indicate either plasticizer or possible corrosion. What metals do you have in your loop? Did you flush the loop and how?


----------



## Mayhem

@Syan48306 if you check out "whitie63" he is testing our new cleaning kit that we are working on that cleans out systems. Once we have done some more tests we will be releasing it to the public.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Green is oxidation.
> Other colours may indicate either plasticizer or possible corrosion. What metals do you have in your loop? Did you flush the loop and how?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> The only components in the loop were a couple EK nickel water blocks, brass bitspower fittings, and full copper alphacool radiators.


I was using primochill advanced LRT tubing and even the tubing's got a layer of green tint to it on the inside. The nickel waterblocks are clean and aren't corroded so I thinking the source is the radiators.

I did a full flush before I installed radiators. However, one of my radiators does have a rattling noise. I've specifically flushed the crap out of that one but it always had it. I can't tell if there's still flux left inside the chambers or if it's the fins rattling on the outside. Either way, alphacool radiators are known for the "rattling" http://www.overclock.net/t/1355889/rattling-noise-inside-alphacool-radiator-when-shaking


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Syan48306 if you check out "whitie63" he is testing our new cleaning kit that we are working on that cleans out systems. Once we have done some more tests we will be releasing it to the public.


What is the cleaning kit's active ingredient? is it a plasticizer cleaner? Corrosion/oxidation cleaner? pH neutralizer?

I've ran primochill's system prep in the past but I doubt it cleans all of the above.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> I was using primochill advanced LRT tubing and even the tubing's got a layer of green tint to it on the inside. The nickel waterblocks are clean and aren't corroded so I thinking the source is the radiators.
> 
> I did a full flush before I installed radiators. However, one of my radiators does have a rattling noise. I've specifically flushed the crap out of that one but it always had it. I can't tell if there's still flux left inside the chambers or if it's the fins rattling on the outside. Either way, alphacool radiators are known for the "rattling" http://www.overclock.net/t/1355889/rattling-noise-inside-alphacool-radiator-when-shaking


The rattling is common and it is usually caused by the outer protection plate that stops the screws from damaging the fins. Could just be a high level of oxidation causing the colour change. Flush Rads with baking soda and distilled water!


----------



## 15goudreau

I would definitely look into the tarnishing because I am sure that is what is causing your issue. So maybe clean the radiators somehow with a tarnish remover. Flush real good. And make sure you get all the air out of your radiators for the next install.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I would definitely look into the tarnishing because I am sure that is what is causing your issue. So maybe clean the radiators somehow with a tarnish remover. Flush real good. And make sure you get all the air out of your radiators for the next install.


It's hard getting all the air out of multiple 480mm radiators









Baking soda and water acts like a buffer solution. Don't you need an acid like vinegar to properly remove the copper carbonate II?


----------



## 15goudreau

I'm not sure, I would just google it really quickly. And I'm sure it's a pain but with enough case tilting and if you cycle your pump you should be able to get that air out!


----------



## Mayhem

noramly its vinegar followed by bicarb then water, in that order.


----------



## M3TAl

Making me worried that this will happen to my full copper alphacool rads too







.


----------



## Aemonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Making me worried that this will happen to my full copper alphacool rads too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You should be good as long as you have the air out as 15goudreau said.

I find that after fist filling the loop, for the next month or so I turn up the RPM on my pump to max about once a week and get a bunch of bubbles.

There are tiny bubbles in the water and stuck in blocks that settle over time. If you don't have a bleed valve on your rad in key places its a good idea to turn up your pump every so often to make sure they haven't collected somewhere (usually the top rad, or highest point of your loop). This is a lot easier with a PWM controlled pump.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Somebody call this guy a wambulance. Bottom line you didn't do your homework. I had the same bottles you did with the same labels and I don't have any problems because I bothered to research the subject before I purchased and used the product.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Mick you might want to put a warning label on the bottle so people know not to use it as automotive coolant, dish washing detergent, or an enema. I did my due diligence but now my car is broken and I'm in the hospital getting a colonoscopy. Please send me free stuff. Thanks!
> 
> lol


I have trouble finding any other company that is going to hold the end user at fault for following the directions on their product and getting an unsatisfactory result. You guys can try to marginalize and discredit my experience, but that's the bottom line. *I followed the directions and the product did not perform*.

Mayhems flat out labeled me as incompetent and literally told me 'let me Google that for you' and you guys think that is an acceptable response from a product representative? That's unbelievable. That type of attitude is a more significant detractor than the awful performance of the product itself. It's not just me- other people I have shared my experience with think that his demeanor was poor, too. You think EVGA is going to tell me that? Corsair? EK? Not a chance. Why? Because its 100% unprofessional.

It's fine Mayhems doesn't want to supply me with any product, they aren't the only coolant manufacturers out there and I am enjoying my experience with generic distilled. However, it would behoove them to update their literature since I am sure that I am not the only one to have a poor experience with their product. Working on your people skills could help a ton, too.


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I have trouble finding any other company that is going to hold the end user at fault for following the directions on their product and getting an unsatisfactory result. You guys can try to marginalize and discredit my experience, but that's the bottom line. *I followed the directions and the product did not perform*.
> 
> Mayhems flat out labeled me as incompetent and literally told me 'let me Google that for you' and you guys think that is an acceptable response from a product representative? That's unbelievable. That type of attitude is a more significant detractor than the awful performance of the product itself. It's not just me- other people I have shared my experience with think that his demeanor was poor, too. You think EVGA is going to tell me that? Corsair? EK? Not a chance. Why? Because its 100% unprofessional.
> 
> It's fine Mayhems doesn't want to supply me with any product, they aren't the only coolant manufacturers out there and I am enjoying my experience with generic distilled. However, it would behoove them to update their literature since I am sure that I am not the only one to have a poor experience with their product. Working on your people skills could help a ton, too.


When you buy a car the vehicle lets you know when its low on oil or you need more air in a tire, but it doesn't tell you how to actually drive. In much the same way the directions on the bottle tell you how to use that product but it does not tell you how to maintain your water system. It is not Mayhem's responsibility, it's yours, plain and simple. You are running an advanced water cooling system in a very expensive machine, there is simply no reason not have researched everything thoroughly enough to discover basic maintenance guides. If you can't understand that concept then I'm sorry and this will have to be the last comment of yours I will even bother to read.


----------



## theonedub

In less than 30 days the coolant went from normal to awful. How is that a fault of poor maintenance? What coolant requires maintenance less than 30 days after adding? Less than 60? 90?


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I have trouble finding any other company that is going to hold the end user at fault for following the directions on their product and getting an unsatisfactory result. You guys can try to marginalize and discredit my experience, but that's the bottom line. *I followed the directions and the product did not perform*.
> 
> Mayhems flat out labeled me as incompetent and literally told me 'let me Google that for you' and you guys think that is an acceptable response from a product representative? That's unbelievable. That type of attitude is a more significant detractor than the awful performance of the product itself. It's not just me- other people I have shared my experience with think that his demeanor was poor, too. You think EVGA is going to tell me that? Corsair? EK? Not a chance. Why? Because its 100% unprofessional.
> 
> It's fine Mayhems doesn't want to supply me with any product, they aren't the only coolant manufacturers out there and I am enjoying my experience with generic distilled. However, it would behoove them to update their literature since I am sure that I am not the only one to have a poor experience with their product. Working on your people skills could help a ton, too.


I think that you would have been a lot better off if you admitted some user end fault. You said you followed the instructions to a T but clearly that isn't the case because more than likely your radiators are what cause the issue. Also saying you don't have time or resources... resources to buy pH strips, really? How much can they be on amazon 5$? Compared to the coolant you bought and the fact that you are water cooling means that if you can't spare 5$ something is majorly wrong. Also if you don't have time to maintain your system, maybe watercooling isn't for you.

Other people came in and admitted fault and mayhem gave them a replacement hassle free. However you took no responsibility and started coming in like this thread owed you something and that you were entitled to a replacement.

While yes there is probably error on Mayhems end for not directly specifying that pH can mess with coolant, I feel as though your due diligence was not completed by completely flushing your radiators or doing enough research to make sure you didn't encounter problems. I think the fact that the majority of people don't have issues speaks enough to the success of Mayhem's product and the fact that most of us do lots of research before buying a product. You could have also posted before hand as a quick check detailing the process you went through and if you were good to add your coolant.

This thread is almost always on the first page of the Watercooling forum as well so there really isn't any excuse as to why you couldn't have found it up until now.

I'm sure you are a good guy who feels like you should have your product replaced. If you read through the entire thread you would know just how awesome Mayhem is and what an upstanding person he is. I think there is fault on both ends but if you really think that all the blame lays on Mayhem, then there really isn't much any of us are going to do for you.


----------



## failwheeldrive

There's also the fact that a properly flushed loop should be Ph neutral, and it's up to the user to make sure his or her loop is clean. From my limited understanding having air bubbles trapped in copper radiators can also lead to ph imbalances, but once again if this happens it's the fault of the user for not properly bleeding the loop. There is a plethora of information and best practices regarding Mayhems coolant right here in this thread. If you run into issues, chances are it's due to user error, not a faulty product.

Sorry you had issues with the coolant, that really sucks. But come on, it's most likely the cheapest part in your entire computer... how difficult would it really be to just take it as a learning experience and buy another bottle or switch to another coolant?


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> There's also the fact that a properly flushed loop should be Ph neutral, and it's up to the user to make sure his or her loop is clean. From my limited understanding having air bubbles trapped in copper radiators can also lead to ph imbalances, but once again if this happens it's the fault of the user for not properly bleeding the loop. There is a plethora of information and best practices regarding Mayhems coolant right here in this thread. If you run into issues, chances are it's due to user error, not a faulty product.
> 
> Sorry you had issues with the coolant, that really sucks. But come on, it's most likely the cheapest part in your entire computer... how difficult would it really be to just take it as a learning experience and buy another bottle or switch to another coolant?


I think you may be confusing two separate posters







. Although theonedub's issue may have came from tarnish, it was most likely a pH imbalance where as syan had tarnish in his radiators.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Whoops, yeah got confused lol


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I think that you would have been a lot better off if you admitted some user end fault. You said you followed the instructions to a T but clearly that isn't the case because more than likely your radiators are what cause the issue. Also saying you don't have time or resources... resources to buy pH strips, really? How much can they be on amazon 5$? Compared to the coolant you bought and the fact that you are water cooling means that if you can't spare 5$ something is majorly wrong. Also if you don't have time to maintain your system, maybe watercooling isn't for you.
> 
> Other people came in and admitted fault and mayhem gave them a replacement hassle free. However you took no responsibility and started coming in like this thread owed you something and that you were entitled to a replacement.
> 
> While yes there is probably error on Mayhems end for not directly specifying that pH can mess with coolant, I feel as though your due diligence was not completed by completely flushing your radiators or doing enough research to make sure you didn't encounter problems. I think the fact that the majority of people don't have issues speaks enough to the success of Mayhem's product and the fact that most of us do lots of research before buying a product. You could have also posted before hand as a quick check detailing the process you went through and if you were good to add your coolant.
> 
> This thread is almost always on the first page of the Watercooling forum as well so there really isn't any excuse as to why you couldn't have found it up until now.
> 
> I'm sure you are a good guy who feels like you should have your product replaced. If you read through the entire thread you would know just how awesome Mayhem is and what an upstanding person he is. I think there is fault on both ends but if you really think that all the blame lays on Mayhem, then there really isn't much any of us are going to do for you.


I think I explained before why I believe it's not a radiator issue, but here's my reasoning. I received the PC from num1son, a well known builder who I would give benefit of the doubt to as far as the ability to properly assemble and clean the build. Sure, I don't know what he did or did not do 100% but again, benefit of the doubt given his credibility. I suppose I can't prove that I flushed the system without having a video or something, but in a case like this (or any other RMA, Support, etc) you have to go with what the customer says. You don't see EVGA, Corsair, etc denying an RMA because the believe the customer 'must be lying', no? Its tough, but thats part of the business. That being said, I am telling you guys I flushed the loop.

As far as time and resources, its the truth. It takes quite a bit of time to disassemble, drain and flush the loop. If this were a 5 minute job I'd have no complaints, but its not. With a maximum life of 2 years (according to Mayhem's website) I can set aside time in a regular period to maintain the loop- just like I would do with any other equipment. Having to do it 2-3x a month? No, I would agree that that is not for me. The only problem is that shouldn't be the case.

I *love* when people come out and tell people what they can or can't afford. I don't even want to get into that, but the long short is money is money. I think its bad practice when you experience a problem with a product and the manufactures immediate 'solution' is to buy something. I'm thinking 'I'm just wishing what I got in the first place worked right', you know?

I don't believe I came here feeling entitled to anything. I simply stated the facts and provided my evidence. This was my first post here. I honestly see no entitlement there. You're telling me you do?


----------



## 15goudreau

That is not the post that I was claiming entitlement too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> If the coolant is this sensitive to pH, there should really be some sort of disclaimer on the bottle and/or instructions on the bottle that clearly advises to measure pH before adding to the loop. The instructions on the bottle under 'Before Using Pastel's' alludes that a 'proper' flush was to flush with water- it does not mention pH testing anywhere.
> 
> From my standpoint I got the product, followed the instructions provider by the manufacturer, and was left with results far from meeting the expectation set by the company. If you guys know that pH causes color changes like this and that the problem exists in large numbers of users (enough that it makes business sense to develop your new cleaning kit), that info needs to be clearly communicated to the end users so that issues like mine are prevented.
> 
> At this point I don't have the time or resources (pH strips) to drain my loop again, establish a perfect pH, and refill with more Pastels. I've already removed the faulty Pastels from my loop and have begun filling it with plain distilled and silver plugs.
> 
> Like I said before, I think I did my due diligence in prepping the loop given the instructions provided. *At this point I would be fine with Mayhems sending me out a bottle of purple dye* (assuming its not as pH sensitive as Pastels) that I can add to my fresh H2O loop.


In this post, even though you tried to word it friendly, you conveys that you think you should be sent a new bottle. You didn't ask. No one is saying you need to drain your loop three times. I've had my coolant in for several months no issues.

If I recall from your previous posts you said all you did was rinse a few times with DI water. This thread when read throughout, would give you the information you need to know that that isn't good enough. I have a bottle of pastel in front of me, and I quote "The blocks and especially the radiators must be clean and have no chemicals of any kind left in the system. We recommend you flush your system with sodium bicarbonate followed by DI water." Unless you can provide detailed proof that your radiators do not have chemicals in them, I simply in good faith cannot side with you.

The onus is on you to find out why what happened happened. And then steps can be made to correct the issue. The fact that you didn't even build the computer but received it as part of a raffle doesn't help your case. You have no idea what was done for preparation of the loop. The builder could have been using pastel for the first time and didn't read the label. So didn't clean the radiators fully.

Also to your point about customer service. EVGA and Corsair are very large companies that mass produce products. Also, have you ever seen a EVGA rep on overclock.net? Because I haven't. Watercooling is a VERY niche market. Coolant within watercooling is even more niche. So to expect free hand outs like EVGA or Corsair might give from a small company that spends most of its money on further research is far from fair.

Again, you still have yet to say, I may have messed up and this might be my fault. Until you accept some of the responsibility there really is no moving forwards.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> That is not the post that I was claiming entitlement too.
> 
> In this post, even though you tried to word it friendly, basically conveys that you think you should be sent a new bottle. You didn't ask. No one is saying you need to drain your loop three times. I've had my coolant in for several months no issues.
> 
> If I recall from your previous posts you said all you did was rinse a few times with DI water. This thread when read throughout would give you the information you need to know that isn't good enough. I have a bottle of pastel in front of me, and I quote "The blocks and especially the radiators must be clean and have no chemicals of any kind left in the system. We recommend you flush your system with sodium bicarbonate followed by DI water."
> 
> The onus is on you to find out why what happened happened. And then steps can be made to correct the issue. The fact that you didn't even build the computer but received it as part of a raffle doesn't help your case. You have no idea what was done for preparation of the loop. The builder could have been using pastel for the first time and didn't read the label. So didn't clean the radiators fully.
> 
> Also to your point about customer service. EVGA and Corsair are very large companies that mass produce products. Also, have you ever seen a EVGA rep on overclock.net? Because I haven't. Watercooling is a VERY niche market. Coolant within watercooling is even more niche. So to expect free hand outs like EVGA or Corsair might give from a small company that spends most of its money on further research is far from fair.
> 
> Again, you still have yet to say, I may have messed up and this might be my fault. Until you accept some of the responsibility there really is no moving forwards.


OK, you had said I came in here entitled so I was confused. In response to that post, yes I feel at that point I should be sent something new. He was pretty firm that a pH imbalance caused the issue, and since I was never made aware of any potential problems with pH I felt that I had no way to prevent the issue from occurring. Had the bottle said- *Measure pH before use, ensure 7-8pH before adding Pastels*. I'd take my licks, admit my fault, and leave- but that's not the case.

My bottle and Mayhems website says:



Yes, even if the builder muffed it up, I still followed the supplied directions to properly fill the loop. So I do not believe the error was on my part. I think thats a reasonable conclusion.

EVGA does have a rep here on the forum. Being a small company is no excuse for a lack of support. If he can't send out a replacement because the business can't afford it- that may be reasonable but there is no evidence that that is the case here evidenced by new prototypes being sent out, new cleaning kits being developed, etc.

One way smaller companies often set themselves apart from the larger companies is by providing a more hands on approach in manners of customer service and support that become unfeasible for larger companies. No matter how you cut it, there is no excuse for the final response from Mayhems which was a direct insult and unprofessional.


----------



## d00bzilla

stop replying to him and he will go away


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After running pastel ice white for about a year in a brand new loop, my coolant got a blue/green tint to it. When looking at the alphacool UT60 radiators, it looks like the copper is tarnishing on the inside. there are parts of the inside that still has the rosy copper color but the channels look like they've turned a gray/blue/green color. I'm thinking this is fairly normal but my coolant did pick up the blue/green color. I tested the pH was around the 6.5 to 7.5 ish range; nothing too far from ordinary.
> 
> Is it necessary and how should I clean out the radiators before filling it up with more pastel coolant for my next build? I've flushed the radiator with probably close 25 gallons tap water from the faucet and then followed up with a distilled water rinse. I'd imagine even if there were a pH imbalance, it'd be washed out.
> 
> The only components in the loop were a couple EK nickel water blocks, brass bitspower fittings, and full copper alphacool radiators.


It's copper patina, not oxidation. Well... technically it is oxidation but it's not corrosion. Copper develops a natural blue/green film on it that makes it resistant to oxidation, it's one of the main reasons they used it for running underground tubing for so long before we had readily available plastic tubings. Take a look at the statue of liberty, does it shock you that it used to be copper coloured? So yeah, that's a normal part of copper. Normally you could clean it off with some buffing agent and elbow grease, but since it's in the radiator I would flush with some lemon juice and a bicarb. Should clean any loose bits off it, then neutralize it. Then I'd run some distilled through the rad and see if it comes out the other end clear.

Just my


----------



## kizwan

Both radiator flux & corrosion can cause pH imbalance right? Anyone know what colour blue berry turn to when pH imbalance? Cyan?

I only use tap water & distilled water (rinse 2 - 3 times) when cleaning my HL Black Ice GTS 360 & XSPC EX240 radiators. My understanding that I don't need to flush using baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) if it's new radiator, right?

I'm going to rebuild my loop this week but going to use distilled water until I received additional Pastel later, ETA 1 month. Current Pastel Blue Berry is not enough when I add another radiator in the loop. So my question is, do I need to flush my radiators with baking soda & distilled water prior filling my loop with Pastel?

I bought pH test strips in case I need it later.


----------



## Papuz

hello, I've tried to add some color ocean blue and color only the tank, pipes remain transparent


----------



## 15goudreau

You need to add more. With clear dye, the res will always be darker than the tubing. So just add more until you see it in the pipes.


----------



## Papuz

ahhhh ooooooooook! because I wanted to get a result very clear and transparent, I have seen many photos there are pipes and tank of the same color

How many "UV Clear Blue" I have add for to have good effect in the dark? My sistem have 2.5/3 Liters of additive.

I wanted a light purple affect because I also the "UV Pink" but the "Ocean Blu" have moore green and I do not know what the end result of "UV clear blue + UV pink" in the dark.

How do I remove the bubbles from the reservoir?


----------



## 15goudreau

Bubbles will be removed with time so just let your pump do it's thing. The fill tube is long enough where it won't create turbulence to create more bubbles so you should be good there. Hard to say how much dye you would need for your system. I just add it from the fill port with only the pump running and keep adding till I'm satisfied with the results.


----------



## Papuz

Fortunately I did not turbulence, for some time I leave the lid open to let the air out


----------



## 15goudreau

If you want the bubbles to go away. Simply close the system and let it run for a while. They should disappear over time.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papuz*
> 
> hello, I've tried to add some color ocean blue and color only the tank, pipes remain transparent
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hi,

Totally out of topic...but why did you choose Corsair AF series on radiators instead of Corsair SP series? And also how did you manage to make that big rad/fan sandwich in the front screw wise?

Thanks


----------



## Papuz

I finished connecting all this night, when the PC will be finished and tested I will open an official topic.

I used the AF series because the radiator are 420 and 280 +280 (the cese i Fractal Design mid tower), and there are only AF series in 140mm, and are quiet enough to keep everything very cold, for the front sandwich I wanted to do an experiment, I'm not an expert, it works fine and aesthetically i prefer slim radiators and wanted to increase the air flow.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Totally out of topic...but why did you choose Corsair AF series on radiators instead of Corsair SP series? And also how did you manage to make that big rad/fan sandwich in the front screw wise?
> 
> Thanks


Sand which design is actually not recommended. Martin's lab has proved this. If you want to that's fine but if you can find another location for the radiator you will be better off. Also I don't know if Corsair makes 140 mm SP fans, but those should be used when being put on a radiator, not AF. AF fans are for case fans not radiators.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papuz*
> 
> I finished connecting all this night, when the PC will be finished and tested I will open an official topic.
> 
> I used the AF series because the radiator are 420 and 280 +280 (the cese i Fractal Design mid tower), and there are only AF series in 140mm, and are quiet enough to keep everything very cold, for the front sandwich I wanted to do an experiment, I'm not an expert, it works fine and aesthetically i prefer slim radiators and wanted to increase the air flow.


Ok but my question on the sandwich is how did you screw all this together?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Sand which design is actually not recommended. Martin's lab has proved this. If you want to that's fine but if you can find another location for the radiator you will be better off. Also I don't know if Corsair makes 140 mm SP fans, but those should be used when being put on a radiator, not AF. AF fans are for case fans not radiators.


Don't worry I know all this....I only wanted the input of the owner on this one.

If you check my build logs, i'm no sandwich fan and my fans choice are SP oriented.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Ok but my question on the sandwich is how did you screw all this together?
> Don't worry I know all this....I only wanted the input of the owner on this one.
> 
> If you check my build logs, i'm no sandwich fan and my fans choice are SP oriented.


ah ok, Just double checking


----------



## DarthBaggins

Code:

So what I've gathered via all e posts on adding the dyes or other fluids I need to make sure I maintain a neutral ph in my loop to ensure longevity of proper cooling and color. I'm still on the fence if I should add a dye to my current distilled loop on just wait till I do my gf's loop which I'll be doing a blueberry pastel or might do a pink pastel which I'll be snagging a ek supremacy CPU block, and full cover block for the 7870 I'll be transferring from my current build ( right now it's still on air) and debating on running acrylic tubing or just go with Alphacool's clear tubing, unless it's better to go with another vendor on tubing so as to reduce a chance of discoloration or other issues. Also what is the best flushing method on new blocks and rads to prep for the pastels, as I've seen the three step that's been mentioned but guessing that's referring to a pre used loop. Making sure to do my research/homework prior to diving into this as well, lol


----------



## 15goudreau

Use *Primochill Advanced LRT*. Do not use anything else because it will leach plasticizer. Only PALRT seems to be able to keep it's plasticizer contained.

Blocks should only be flushed with DI water. If there is some tarnish try some soap and then rinse with DI. Radiators must be cleaned thoroughly before hand. It seems the popular choice is to run lots of water through it. Maybe a little bit of vinegar with water. Then rinse with Water and Sodium Bicarbonate(Baking soda). Then flush several times with DI water. At the end run DI water through your system and check the pH of the water. If it is at 7 you should be good to go!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Awesome, I'm currently running primo on my Frankenstein. Seems simple enough, even though there is plenty of room for error too. And I know my current loop is all copper/brass based rads and copper xspc CPU block.


----------



## 15goudreau

As long as you flush a ton with DI water and have pH strips to test the loop you really shouldn't run into any major issues.


----------



## SeriousBlack

I'm loving so many of the builds in here, some amazing skills being shown.

This is my first attempt with Mayhems liquids and I really like how they look. I have used Pastel Ice White & Pure Black.


----------



## BradleyW

I agree, some great talent here. I will be cleaning my loop out in the end of May. Might pick up some Compression Fittings (Straight, 45 degree and 90 degree designs) and draw some plans up on improving appearance.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> As long as you flush a ton with DI water and have pH strips to test the loop you really shouldn't run into any major issues.


Looks like I'm off to get some ph test strip/electronic tester lol. But yeah I flushed with Distilled prior to my initial install, can't see flushing with tap just to turn around and re flush with distilled anyway, also tap adds too many chances of a mishap to happen as distilled is cheap here anyway. ( I snag the Deer Park that states on the label that it's safe for small appliances)


----------



## 15goudreau

Yeah, the pH tester is a very inexpensive way to make sure your loop is neutral and your coolant won't do anything funky.


----------



## d00bzilla

FYI if you want a more advanced way to measure ph you can drop by your local hydroponics store and pick up a digital meter.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's what I was thinking of getting, they also sell them at pool and aquarium supply stores








lol


----------



## Hasty

Hello sorry if I'm dense what do you actually test with the ph meter? The distilled water that you're gonna use to flush? Or is it only for people who buy coolant concentrates and mix them themselves?


----------



## 15goudreau

You run your system with distilled water for some time and then check the pH which should be around 7. This is to ensure the coolant doesn't degrade in any way.


----------



## Hasty

Thank you.

Another question then:

And if it is not around 7, that means that at least one of the component in the loop is changing the ph? And you then test each component to find out which are "faulty"?
Also what if the distilled water prior to running in the loop is not around 7?


----------



## 15goudreau

Distilled water should be 7 if it isn't find a brand that has it. Also usually the issue that creates problems are new or improperly flushed radiators. So check that first.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I ran primo sysprep in distilled through a water filter when I was flushing on my current setup, but as seeing I'll have to do a multiple step I'll test the ph prior to using my home made flush setup. The filter caught a lot of crap from the rads while it was running (ran the flusher for 8 hours while I was at the shop/work).


----------



## Hasty

Thank you for the info. +rep

I'm planning on making my first water loop in one or two month. Made my first build this month so water cooling is the next logical step.
I'm a big fan of white pastel coolants and I want to make sure I get no color degradation as it would completely destroy the aesthetics I'm going for.

By the way is there some safe lists of brands/models to choose from in terms of water cooling components (rads, fittings, tubing, res, blocks) to avoid this type of situation with inadequate ph? What about the materials (copper, nickel, ... )?


----------



## DarthBaggins

On Mayhems website they list components that have shown no issues when using along with their fluids & dyes.


----------



## 15goudreau

Even if you have something approved youShould still flush it anyways


----------



## Hasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> On Mayhems website they list components that have shown no issues when using along with their fluids & dyes.


Nice.

Thanks I'll be sure to check it.


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hasty*
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Another question then:
> 
> And if it is not around 7, that means that at least one of the component in the loop is changing the ph? And you then test each component to find out which are "faulty"?
> Also what if the distilled water prior to running in the loop is not around 7?


Ya you could fill individual components and shake it real good for a while and test the ph to identify where the problem may lie. If the ph of the distilled water isn't 7 I would find a new source of distilled water but ph can be made more acidic by introducing lemon juice and more basic by adding baking soda. Also you can get a liter of "ph up" and "ph down" at your local hydroponics store for $11 a piece if you don't want to mess with things like lemon and baking soda. Sometimes they have 8oz bottles which is probably a better size for our application.

Also another FYI. If you get a digital ph meter it will not be able to accurately read the ph of pure distilled water.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> FYI if you want a more advanced way to measure ph you can drop by your local hydroponics store and pick up a digital meter.


Don't use deionized water if you use a digital meter, it will give you absurd readings like 2.1 when in reality it's very near neutral. Since deionized water is indeed deionized and pH tests hydrogen ions you'll end up with wacked out readings when in reality it's very near neutral.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hasty*
> 
> Hello sorry if I'm dense what do you actually test with the ph meter? The distilled water that you're gonna use to flush? Or is it only for people who buy coolant concentrates and mix them themselves?


A pH meter tests the concentration of hydrogen ions. Low concentrations are acidic, high concentrations are basic or alkaline.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hasty*
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Another question then:
> 
> And if it is not around 7, that means that at least one of the component in the loop is changing the ph? And you then test each component to find out which are "faulty"?
> Also what if the distilled water prior to running in the loop is not around 7?


Components usually won't effect pH, leftover crap in them and additives will. Some people use CuSo4 (Copper II Sulphate) in their loop which will drastically lower the pH, then switch to a concentrate and it gives them low pH levels which can mess with their coolant. Then all the sudden their red/pink coolant is crap brown and they get angry at the manu when it was the fault of the pH of their loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Distilled water should be 7 if it isn't find a brand that has it. Also usually the issue that creates problems are new or improperly flushed radiators. So check that first.


Actually plain water has a ph of 6.3, but close enough.


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Don't use deionized water if you use a digital meter, it will give you absurd readings like 2.1 when in reality it's very near neutral. Since deionized water is indeed deionized and pH tests hydrogen ions you'll end up with wacked out readings when in reality it's very near neutral.
> 
> A pH meter tests the concentration of hydrogen ions. Low concentrations are acidic, high concentrations are basic or alkaline.
> Components usually won't effect pH, leftover crap in them and additives will. Some people use CuSo4 (Copper II Sulphate) in their loop which will drastically lower the pH, then switch to a concentrate and it gives them low pH levels which can mess with their coolant. Then all the sudden their red/pink coolant is crap brown and they get angry at the manu when it was the fault of the pH of their loop.
> Actually plain water has a ph of 6.3, but close enough.


Somebody payed attention in chemistry class







Spot on, very good info. I'm at work and didn't have time to fully explain why the ph meter wouldn't work in distilled water.


----------



## 15goudreau

psh what-everrrr


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> noramly its vinegar followed by bicarb then water, in that order.


@Mick

okay I ran part 2 for 26 hours and after flushing with 3 gallons of DI water I had a pH test of 6.2 which means I'm on the aesthetic side so what now do I go get some bicarbonate and run through it I need the info so I can fill my loop I don't want to put the pastel into my loop until you give me the go ahead


----------



## Balanar

Hey guys, I just built my system and I'm using Mayhem's Aurora Tharsis Red. It's the older version and it looks stunning! Pics soon I promise. However, I wanted to ask if I should/could add Mayhem's Biocide Extreme to the loop? I want to prevent any colour change etc so any advice would help.


----------



## d00bzilla

Correct me if I'm wrong but mayhem liquids should already contain biocides.


----------



## hftjmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balanar*
> 
> Hey guys, I just built my system and I'm using Mayhem's Aurora Tharsis Red. It's the older version and it looks stunning! Pics soon I promise. However, I wanted to ask if I should/could add Mayhem's Biocide Extreme to the loop? I want to prevent any colour change etc so any advice would help.


They already contain biocides so you should be good but Aurora will gunk up your blocks and it is not meant to be run in a system for more than a couple weeks. They are working pn a more permanent version of it but i do not believe that will be available for some time. I would recommend running pastel in your loop for the time being and maybe by the time you have to refill your loop the new aurora will be out.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balanar*
> 
> Hey guys, I just built my system and I'm using Mayhem's Aurora Tharsis Red. It's the older version and it looks stunning! Pics soon I promise. However, I wanted to ask if I should/could add Mayhem's Biocide Extreme to the loop? I want to prevent any colour change etc so any advice would help.


Colour change occurs when the pH is unbalanced, biocide extreme will lower the pH further increasing the chance of color change. Aurora is Mayhems X1with pearlecent nanoparticles so it has all the biocides and additives you need to keep your loop running clean. Don't add anything to it other than water to top it off and dyes if you want a stronger colour.


----------



## Balanar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong but mayhem liquids should already contain biocides.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hftjmac*
> 
> They already contain biocides so you should be good but Aurora will gunk up your blocks and it is not meant to be run in a system for more than a couple weeks. They are working pn a more permanent version of it but i do not believe that will be available for some time. I would recommend running pastel in your loop for the time being and maybe by the time you have to refill your loop the new aurora will be out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Colour change occurs when the pH is unbalanced, biocide extreme will lower the pH further increasing the chance of color change. Aurora is Mayhems X1with pearlecent nanoparticles so it has all the biocides and additives you need to keep your loop running clean. Don't add anything to it other than water to top it off and dyes if you want a stronger colour.


Thanks for all the super quick replies guys. I am aware that Aurora is technically a 'showcase' liquid but my loop is a really simple one and it looked so cool that I tried it. I'm prepared to give my loop a thorough cleaning if/when the particles drop out at a very fast rate. Everything should hopefully be fine though.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hftjmac*
> 
> They already contain biocides so you should be good but Aurora will gunk up your blocks and it is not meant to be run in a system for more than a couple weeks. They are working pn a more permanent version of it but i do not believe that will be available for some time. I would recommend running pastel in your loop for the time being and maybe by the time you have to refill your loop the new aurora will be out.


It won't gunk up anything, the particles can fall out of suspension and leave a powdery residue but will under no circumstance create the infamous gunk. The new version of Aurora is finished and has already shipped but they're stream lining it into current inventory so wewon't be able to get ut until stores run out of the old stuff.


----------



## kizwan

I can't believe I have to bump this.







@ZytheEKS, can you reply to my post below?









I want to add that I follow martin's guide on flushing blocks & radiators. It's already over a year now - including a couple of draining but re-using the same coolant every time (filtered using filter paper when refilling). The Pastel Blue Berry still look like new, either in tubing or in reservoir. No change of colour whatsoever. If distilled water is ridiculously expensive, I recommend follow this guide. Can't go wrong with this guide.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Both radiator flux & corrosion can cause pH imbalance right? Anyone know what colour blue berry turn to when pH imbalance? Cyan?
> 
> I only use tap water & distilled water (rinse 2 - 3 times) when cleaning my HL Black Ice GTS 360 & XSPC EX240 radiators. My understanding that I don't need to flush using baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) if it's new radiator, right?
> 
> I'm going to rebuild my loop this week but going to use distilled water until I received additional Pastel later, ETA 1 month. Current Pastel Blue Berry is not enough when I add another radiator in the loop. So my question is, do I need to flush my radiators with baking soda & distilled water prior filling my loop with Pastel?
> 
> I bought pH test strips in case I need it later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I can't believe I have to bump this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ZytheEKS, can you reply to my post below?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to add that I follow martin's guide on flushing blocks & radiators. It's already over a year now - including a couple of draining but re-using the same coolant every time (filtered using filter paper when refilling). The Pastel Blue Berry still look like new, either in tubing or in reservoir. No change of colour whatsoever. If distilled water is ridiculously expensive, I recommend follow this guide. Can't go wrong with this guide.


You want to flush ESPECIALLY if it's a new rad. Depending on what brand of rad you get it could have debris in it, many manus don't clean out the flux after soldering it together so a new rad may have an increased chance of flux getting caught in the loop. HW Labs tends to be REALLY good about not having debris in the rad, but there's still the flux issue.

As far as I'm aware all pastel coolants tend to turn a brownish color in the presence of a wacky pH value, maybe Cyphon will know better on that though.

With a new radiator I'd turn your tap on as hot as it can go, 20% lemon juice to 80% hot water, put it in the rad, and play bop it for a few minutes, drain, then flush wtih the bicarb.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> whitie63
> 
> okay I ran part 2 for 26 hours and after flushing with 3 gallons of DI water I had a pH test of 6.2 which means I'm on the aesthetic side so what now do I go get some bicarbonate and run through it I need the info so I can fill my lookI don't want to put the pastel into my loop until you give me the go ahead


lol well thats not bad but it should be 7.2 PH ;/ Have you calibrated your test meter


----------



## Papuz

I used the normal screws with much difficulty that I screwed up




Problem for the sandwich front and the fans AF is theoretically uncorrect, but the purpose of the liquid systemat is to have low temperaturemy and my system has a very low temperature so my objective
has been reached.


----------



## Papuz

what lights you used?
Tips for lights to highlight the UV?


----------



## 15goudreau

I would recommend UV cathodes as they give a warm overall UV effect where as LED uv are more spots.


----------



## Papuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I would recommend UV cathodes as they give a warm overall UV effect where as LED uv are more spots.


where can I find them?


----------



## 15goudreau

If frozen cpu ships to you, here is a link. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2992/lit-23/12_Cold_Cathode_Kit_Dual_Ready_-_Ultra_Bright_UV.html?tl=g6c75s132


----------



## DarthBaggins

I like my logisys 18" led uv light bars, but yeah I have noticed they are more of a spot rather than flood style lighting.


----------



## kcuestag

@Papuz You don't want to run two radiators like a sandwich, there is literally NO GAIN between having one, or two sandwiched, you can check it out in Martin's reviews for example.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> @Papuz You don't want to run two radiators like a sandwich, there is literally NO GAIN between having one, or two sandwiched, you can check it out in Martin's reviews for example.


I think he is aware. However there is no other room for him to place it and he like the way it turned out.


----------



## Papuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I think he is aware. However there is no other room for him to place it and he like the way it turned out.


you understand me perfectly!


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> [quote name="Mayhem" url="/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/5620#post_21983905" i can only suggest that you clean and flush your system out and check the PH levels.
> As for system flushing we have / are developing an excellent system flush system that will take your system to PH Neutral.
> 
> Mick


@Mick

Mick as far as pH testing goes there are a few choices out there I chose one of the cheaper ones would just like your opinion as to whether it will work on your pastels I'm pretty sure it would work on Di water being as it is for freshwater have a look let me know


and another thought comes to mind maybe you all could make a pH test kit or rebrand one and sell it just an idea I don't know but it seems as though pH is pretty important here be nice to have a kit you could trust for all liquids that you sell thanks Chris[/quote]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*


@Mick

Mick as I was telling you earlier I did not buy a test meter I bought the cheap test strips and you said that they would be perfectly fine so now I stand here with my test strip it shows me at 6.2 I have ran both system one and system two of the Blitz cleaner to the letter. so now I'm asking what further action should I take thank you Chris

Quote:
@whitie63 that method is fine we normally use cheap test strips our self for quick testing. We use our main Electrodes for in depth testing as they take time to clean. We are sourcing some cheap PH Electronic test meters right now that we can add to the cleaning kit so that it will not increase its value to much. We all ready include free test strips with our biocides.http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/biocide-extreme-10ml.html


----------



## Papuz

You as you suggested I added more color in the tank to see it also in the tubes, an effect that came out I did not want to, I don't like tthen the tank in moore dark, doesn't make sense, it's really ugly looking.

I tried to mix ocean blue and pink uv and I got a strange effect, I should do with the UV lights.

I am very disappointed, it is not easy to get visible color starting from the lens, don't understand why the tank becomes much darker, I've seen a lot of pictures on the Internet where the colors are uniform.

probably pass UV pastel white, I only regret that I have spent a lot of money


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papuz*
> 
> You as you suggested I added more color in the tank to see it also in the tubes, an effect that came out I did not want to, I don't like tthen the tank in moore dark, doesn't make sense, it's really ugly looking.
> 
> I tried to mix ocean blue and pink uv and I got a strange effect, I should do with the UV lights.
> 
> I am very disappointed, it is not easy to get visible color starting from the lens, don't understand why the tank becomes much darker, I've seen a lot of pictures on the Internet where the colors are uniform.
> 
> probably pass UV pastel white, I only regret that I have spent a lot of money


Bro this is kind of a physics problem. The thicker the water, the less light gets through and therefore the darker the color which means reservoirs will always look darker than the thinner amount of water in the tubes. This is why the deeper the ocean gets the darker blue it becomes.


----------



## Papuz

You're absolutely right, but I do not know the density of the liquid, my inexperience won my curiosity, now I'm discouraged, I leave everything so for the moment, partly because I did a great deal of effort to put it all in that little case, many time to bend the rigid pipes,,, very difficult work


----------



## 15goudreau

You have two options. This is a know issue with clear dye because of the reasons described above. However if you want a uniform colour for your coolant throughout all your tubes you will have to use Pastel. Because Pastel is opaque you will not have this issue. So either you need to go with pastel or use coloured tubes to achieve your desired effect. However because you are running acrylic I doubt you want to go that route. Give the pastel a thought and let us know.


----------



## Mayhem

@whitie63 Test strips are fine for clear liquids and pastel white. they are no good for coloured liquids as the dye effect the test strip.

We are currently testing / progressing with tests on a cheap electronic PH tester right now. Until l we've tested it completely we cannot say much more than that really.

We do not re brand stuff that not for us we leave that to other companies.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

The new nano matt black arrived the other day that we've been working on with another company, one of my minions has thrown it in to pH 2 and pH 11 liquids. So far its laughing and still staying matt black. will take pics once i get back







. Once we've tested that we will see if it can take the heat of a system running mining apps 24/7 at 90+c for a few days. cannot wait to get back


----------



## d00bzilla

might want to rethink selling that ph meter. they are very finicky, requiring proper storage, cleaning, calibration and become a warranty nightmare because customers take such poor care of them and it's almost impossible to tell if it is malfunctioning because of defect or improper care. i get at least one returned to me at work every day.


----------



## VSG

Ya at best just give some recommendations on pH meters but stay away from selling and supporting them. We have a high end multimeter that measures a bunch of parameters based on specialized electrodes and the pH electrode is the one that users manage to dump on the most.


----------



## cyphon

Man.... been really busy lately lol. Had to catch up on a lot of threads. Looks like a lot of people are still having trouble with rads offsetting pH. Perhaps I will create a prep guide.........assuming I can find the time








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> might want to rethink selling that ph meter. they are very finicky, requiring proper storage, cleaning, calibration and become a warranty nightmare because customers take such poor care of them and it's almost impossible to tell if it is malfunctioning because of defect or improper care. i get at least one returned to me at work every day.


Agree with you on this. It takes active care to keep up with a nice pH meter and also keep it calibrated. For most, they will use it perhaps once or twice until their loop is running and throw it in a closet somewhere or something...


----------



## Mayhem

We are only paying a small amount for them and ill test / calibrate each one before i send them out. They are a extra that you only pay a few quid for and will only be sold as part of the kit. We will be including PH re calibration packs and small tipped screw driver for recalibration but its literally a throw away item for the price we're paying and is a better visual indicator than PH test strips. As for looking after yeh i know i have 2 ORP, PH and EC meters that we have to calibrate daily and also service weekly not inc the ones on the main manufacturing equipment that we've built inline.

We can see how they go and if they are to much hassle we can drop the idea at a later date.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We are only paying a small amount for them and ill test / calibrate each one before i send them out. They are a extra that you only pay a few quid for and will only be sold as part of the kit. We will be including PH re calibration packs and small tipped screw driver for recalibration but its literally a throw away item for the price we're paying and is a better visual indicator than PH test strips. As for looking after yeh i know i have 2 ORP, PH and EC meters that we have to calibrate daily and also service weekly not inc the ones on the main manufacturing equipment that we've built inline.
> 
> We can see how they go and if they are to much hassle we can drop the idea at a later date.


Sounds like a good plan, since yeah there is a huge opening of user misuse/care for the digital ph meters , I've had friends go through them a lot just due to minor accidents or faulty units in all (happens with electronics just no avoiding it). But a digital meter that can read in all your fluids & dyes would be awesome.


----------



## visianary

Hey guys, I'm curious as to how dark the oil black is. I'm trying to work on my first water cooling set up and i wanted to use a FrozenQ T-Virus reservoir. Being that my intentional build is a red and black them, one of my thoughts was to use red helices in the reservoir with a black coolant. So I'm curious as to whether or not the light and the helices will be able to be seen through the coolant if its used.


----------



## 15goudreau

Hold off on the black. It's very sensitive to loops and turns brown easily. Mayhem is currently prototyping a better Black that will work infinitely better than the current supply.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *visianary*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm curious as to how dark the oil black is. I'm trying to work on my first water cooling set up and i wanted to use a FrozenQ T-Virus reservoir. Being that my intentional build is a red and black them, one of my thoughts was to use red helices in the reservoir with a black coolant. So I'm curious as to whether or not the light and the helices will be able to be seen through the coolant if its used.


It'll be nearly pure black in the res, and a murky semi transparent black in the tubes and other thin parts.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Hold off on the black. It's very sensitive to loops and turns brown easily. Mayhem is currently prototyping a better Black that will work infinitely better than the current supply.


That's the pastel black that has issues, X1 Oil Black is just black.


----------



## visianary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It'll be nearly pure black in the res, and a murky semi transparent black in the tubes and other thin parts.
> That's the pastel black that has issues, X1 Oil Black is just black.


Thanks a lot ZtheEKS. In your opinion, what do you think about using the deep purple dye to get a dark colour to substitute for black but that's translucent enough for the light and helices to be visible in the reservoir?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *visianary*
> 
> Thanks a lot ZtheEKS. In your opinion, what do you think about using the deep purple dye to get a dark colour to substitute for black but that's translucent enough for the light and helices to be visible in the reservoir?


It's really hard to get black black with dyes. If you go with a blue base you need an orange secondary which gives you a brown tint, if you use a red base and a green secondary you get a color similarly to X1, if you use a purple base you need a yellow secondary which would give you a orange/red/brown black. Since your eyes see black as an absence of color, you need dyes that absorb every color. Mixing dyes that absorb every color is hard....

What I'd recommend is going with blood red instead. What color helix do you have in there, and what color cathode do you have in there?


----------



## kizwan

Is the digital ph meters is the only way to test dyed water? I have blood red coolant (distilled + red dye only) which I stored in the closet for a year. Digital ph meters not available around here unfortunately. I have small copper rod that I can throw in the bottle & see whether it reacts with the dyed water. LOL


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Is the digital ph meters is the only way to test dyed water? I have blood red coolant (distilled + red dye only) which I stored in the closet for a year. Digital ph meters not available around here unfortunately. I have small copper rod that I can throw in the bottle & see whether it reacts with the dyed water. LOL


The problem with a litmus paper type test is that your dyed fluid will dye the Paper so the color indicator would be off.

Putting a copper rod in probably wouldn't give you much a reaction or would at least take a long long time to do so.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Use of a local laboratory for a PH test runs about $7 but I have an account there for my business. If you have a local computer user's group you belong to, ya might be able to cut a better deal if the lab wants more for a "one of" kinda thing.


----------



## HiTekJeff

I'm getting ready to install a new graphics card and waterblock, so I will need to drain the coolant most likely. Given that, I am using Mayhem's Pastel and was wondering if I should change it out fully at this time. It's been in my system for just over 1 year now.

Thanks


----------



## 15goudreau

Pastel lasts at least 2 years. I think it's maximum is 3 years.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Is the digital ph meters is the only way to test dyed water? I have blood red coolant (distilled + red dye only) which I stored in the closet for a year. Digital ph meters not available around here unfortunately. I have small copper rod that I can throw in the bottle & see whether it reacts with the dyed water. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with a litmus paper type test is that your dyed fluid will dye the Paper so the color indicator would be off.
> 
> Putting a copper rod in probably wouldn't give you much a reaction or would at least take a long long time to do so.
Click to expand...

I found cheap Digital PH Meter With ATC. So, how hard to calibrate digital pH meter? Do I need to re-calibrate frequently?


----------



## cyphon

First, check the tolerance on the reading before buying a cheap sensor. Calibration should be done before each use normally.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> First, check the tolerance on the reading before buying a cheap sensor. Calibration should be done before each use normally.


Tolerance? This is the specification of that digital pH meter.

Specification:
- Latest Revision With Automatic Temperature Compensation (ATC)
- Measuring pH Range: 0.0 - 14.0 pH
- Resolution: 0.1pH
- Accuracy: ±0.1 pH (20°C), ±0.2 pH
- Operating Temperature: 0 - 50°C (32 - 122°F)
- Dimensions: 152 x 29 x 20mm (5.984 x 1.142 x 0.591 inch)
- Batteries: 3 x 1.5V (AG-13 Button Battery)


----------



## d00bzilla

I have personal experience with this ph meter. It's junk. That being said any ph meter less than $200 is always going to be junk. There is no good, reliable and cheap ph meters. They just don't exist. Just be forewarned that you get what you pay for and that you shouldn't expect this thing to last more than a year. Far less without proper care. You will need 7.0 calibration solution for that meter and a mini flathead to turn a screw to calibrate the unit. The unit will need to soak in tap water for 24 hours before use or calibration and the probe will need to be stored in tap water at all times when not in use. Never store the meter in distilled or reverse osmosis water. This will ruin the probe.

Don't pay more than $15 for this meter. I've seen it go for as low as $7 before.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I found cheap Digital PH Meter With ATC. So, how hard to calibrate digital pH meter? Do I need to re-calibrate frequently?
> 
> [IMG
> ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1950150/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


that's cool but do you know if it will read mayhems pastels and died fluids


----------



## visianary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It's really hard to get black black with dyes. If you go with a blue base you need an orange secondary which gives you a brown tint, if you use a red base and a green secondary you get a color similarly to X1, if you use a purple base you need a yellow secondary which would give you a orange/red/brown black. Since your eyes see black as an absence of color, you need dyes that absorb every color. Mixing dyes that absorb every color is hard....
> 
> What I'd recommend is going with blood red instead. What color helix do you have in there, and what color cathode do you have in there?


I havent picked up the reservoir yet, trying to get everything in order beforehand. I'm thinking of going with a red helix and uv cathode, but rethinking it, i feel like it might be too dark using a UV. i dont really need a black, but i more of a nice dark for a good contrast i guess with to go with the red/black theme. i was considering the blood red if i went with getting a black helix instead, possibly purple.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *visianary*
> 
> I havent picked up the reservoir yet, trying to get everything in order beforehand. I'm thinking of going with a red helix and uv cathode, but rethinking it, i feel like it might be too dark using a UV. i dont really need a black, but i more of a nice dark for a good contrast i guess with to go with the red/black theme. i was considering the blood red if i went with getting a black helix instead, possibly purple.


Light blue coolant, trust me on this. If it sounds iffy to you and you end up not liking it you can always throw in some more blue and red and you can go with purple really easily, but I have a feeling you'll be content with a very light blue transparent coolant with a red/black setup.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> I have personal experience with this ph meter. It's junk. That being said any ph meter less than $200 is always going to be junk. There is no good, reliable and cheap ph meters. They just don't exist. Just be forewarned that you get what you pay for and that you shouldn't expect this thing to last more than a year. Far less without proper care. You will need 7.0 calibration solution for that meter and a mini flathead to turn a screw to calibrate the unit. The unit will need to soak in tap water for 24 hours before use or calibration and the probe will need to be stored in tap water at all times when not in use. Never store the meter in distilled or reverse osmosis water. This will ruin the probe.
> 
> Don't pay more than $15 for this meter. I've seen it go for as low as $7 before.


Thanks for the info.







May I know why tap water? Why stored in distilled or RO water is big NO NO?

It's cheap though. I don't mind it only lasted for a year since I know it beforehand.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I found cheap Digital PH Meter With ATC. So, how hard to calibrate digital pH meter? Do I need to re-calibrate frequently?
> 
> [IMG
> ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1950150/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's cool but do you know if it will read mayhems pastels and died fluids
Click to expand...

It should be I think.


----------



## d00bzilla

Distilled water and reverse osmosis water are deionized (no ions) so if the probe is left in, the water will actually rob the probe of its ions and the meter will no longer work. It's not instantaneous or anything but if left in deionized water for an extended amount of time the probe will be ruined.


----------



## d00bzilla

finally got a shot with some accurate color where you can see the mayhem blueberry and the XSPC stuff really blending instead of looking like a wildberry poptart. i'd like to buy some of the new black when it's released to see how it looks.


----------



## visianary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Light blue coolant, trust me on this. If it sounds iffy to you and you end up not liking it you can always throw in some more blue and red and you can go with purple really easily, but I have a feeling you'll be content with a very light blue transparent coolant with a red/black setup.


Ok thanks a lot, I'll try that. That actually seems pretty nice the way I'm envisioning it.


----------



## Mayhem

The pH test meter you are showing is close to what we are buying in bulk (except ours have a larger screen) for a few quid each. We will be adding these to the test kits hence why we consider them a throw away meter. We know they're not perfect how ever as said they are better than Test strips alone for testing coloured liquids







and better than paying £100+ for a test meter.

Were just awaiting for all the new bottles to arrive and bulk test meters then we will start shipping the new kits. Were allso awaiting for our tax bills for the import duty so we can work out the final costs of the blitz systems. All the warning labels and "REACH" Compliance data has been done so nearly ready to go.


----------



## Kokin

Exciting news Mick! I'm really glad you're so passionate about WCing.


----------



## 15goudreau

Great news!!


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I found cheap Digital PH Meter With ATC. So, how hard to calibrate digital pH meter? Do I need to re-calibrate frequently?
> 
> [IMG
> ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1950150/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


I found one on ebay it looks like a good deal for a throwaway to me10 bucks is cheap for something that will read died fluids also comes with all the pH correction fluids heck of a deal just look on ebay


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> I have personal experience with this ph meter. It's junk. That being said any ph meter less than $200 is always going to be junk. There is no good, reliable and cheap ph meters. They just don't exist. Just be forewarned that you get what you pay for and that you shouldn't expect this thing to last more than a year. Far less without proper care. You will need 7.0 calibration solution for that meter and a mini flathead to turn a screw to calibrate the unit. The unit will need to soak in tap water for 24 hours before use or calibration and the probe will need to be stored in tap water at all times when not in use. Never store the meter in distilled or reverse osmosis water. This will ruin the probe.
> 
> Don't pay more than $15 for this meter. I've seen it go for as low as $7 before.


Pretty much all of this lol

Also don't think that DI water will be your pH 7 solution cause it cannot really be measured without using buffers which you probably don't (nor should you) have laying around. Tap water will not be 7 cause of the junk it picks up through treatment and plumbing


----------



## d00bzilla

that depends, has anyone ever run a PPM meter in dyed solution to see if there is any in there? if there is a hundred PPM or so the digital meter might work. i'm used to measuring nutrient mixes with these meters and not water loops lol.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Pretty much all of this lol
> 
> Also don't think that DI water will be your pH 7 solution cause it cannot really be measured without using buffers which you probably don't (nor should you) have laying around. Tap water will not be 7 cause of the junk it picks up through treatment and plumbing


Tap water will be around 6, distilled water should be around 6.3, deionized will have anywhere from a .5-7 pH reading but that's just a result of a lack of hydrogen ions in the water, in reality it doesn't have a legitimate pH value as there aren't enough hydrogen ions in it to register. It will react with other stuff as it it were pH neutral, that is until it re-ionizes or forms carbonic acid. DI is a pain when it comes to using it in coolant or measuring pH.


----------



## Mayhem

DI indeed is a pain to measure how ever adding dye the PPM goes through the roof and its much easier to to measure. Also adding coolant makes it easier measure so the end test and begining tests will be easy to see what is happening. Washing out / rinsing are harder to see. Even leaving the top off DI water for a few hours will make it easier to read.

The advance Cleaning kit isn't for the faint hearted and its not for someone after a quick fix. The 24 hours cleaning period alone will put the quick fix users off.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> I have personal experience with this ph meter. It's junk. That being said any ph meter less than $200 is always going to be junk. There is no good, reliable and cheap ph meters. They just don't exist. Just be forewarned that you get what you pay for and that you shouldn't expect this thing to last more than a year. Far less without proper care. You will need 7.0 calibration solution for that meter and a mini flathead to turn a screw to calibrate the unit. The unit will need to soak in tap water for 24 hours before use or calibration and the probe will need to be stored in tap water at all times when not in use. Never store the meter in distilled or reverse osmosis water. This will ruin the probe.
> 
> Don't pay more than $15 for this meter. I've seen it go for as low as $7 before.
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much all of this lol
> 
> Also don't think that DI water will be your pH 7 solution cause it cannot really be measured without using buffers which you probably don't (nor should you) have laying around. Tap water will not be 7 cause of the junk it picks up through treatment and plumbing
Click to expand...

The digital pH meter I posted in my previous post come with - 1 x Calibration Adjustment screwdriver & *2 x Packets of calibration buffer solution*. I imagine for first time, I'll need to calibrate it. So, there is an extra buffer solution left. If I stored it in tap water, next time when I want to use it, I don't have to re-calibrate again, right?


----------



## d00bzilla

Unfortunately the only way to know if the meter is reading accurately is to put the probe in calibration solution. If it's 7.0 solution and the meter reads 7 then you are obviously good. If it reads anything else it needs to be calibrated. Don't worry about calibration solution. Any hydroponics store should have individual calibration packets for $1.50 a piece or bottles of calibration solution for $8.
Better to calibrate often and be sure you get accurate readings.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> DI indeed is a pain to measure how ever adding dye the PPM goes through the roof and its much easier to to measure. Also adding coolant makes it easier measure so the end test and begining tests will be easy to see what is happening. Washing out / rinsing are harder to see. Even leaving the top off DI water for a few hours will make it easier to read.
> 
> The advance Cleaning kit isn't for the faint hearted and its not for someone after a quick fix. The 24 hours cleaning period alone will put the quick fix users off.


@Mick

I will agree with that the Mayhems Blitz Cleaning system did clean my system up bright shiny new looking.









Ok part 1 there was more than enough to do my system the rads came out very clean but be warned *This stuff will eat.*



Part 2.



looking at 4 hours tearing the hole system down. rad cleaning 2.5 hours. Another 4 hours to put it all back together and then running part 2 through your system 26 hours Very Very bubbly and did do a good job cleaning.





*FYI* had to run 3gal DI water through my system just to get the bubbles out 30 min between water changes so your looking at another 4 hours.

So 40.5 hours later, I don't have a test meter so I had to use strips and came up with a PH of 6.2 not the goal I was looking for but I don't think it was the fault of the cleaning system or the USER you see my system has a volume of 2550ml and I was sent 50ml and at 25ml mixed with 975ml and you have 1000ml
With 50ml you can only get 2000ml out of part 2 and that left me ~13.75ml short .

So in the end I learned a lot more about my system then I ever knew before. and very satisfied with the results.

I Just want to say Thank You to Mayhems and especially (Mick) for helping me git my system in tip top shape

Thank You Chris.
My thoughts Mick you might thank about Taylor fitting the cleaning system to peoples systems maybe a 1000ml kit ( for small systems)
a 2000ml kit (for average systems) which is what you sent me and a 3000ml kit ( for extreme systems







) I don't know maybe just a thought.









@Mick
And about that PH test meter you are planing to sell do you have a solid price and when are you going to start selling them? I
would like to get my hands on one so I can find out were my system really sits.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> @Mick
> 
> I will agree with that the Mayhems Blitz Cleaning system did clean my system up bright shiny new looking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok part 1 there was more than enough to do my system the rads came out very clean but be warned *This stuff will eat.*
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2.
> 
> 
> 
> looking at 4 hours tearing the hole system down. rad cleaning 2.5 hours. Another 4 hours to put it all back together and then running part 2 through your system 26 hours Very Very bubbly and did do a good job cleaning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *FYI* had to run 3gal DI water through my system just to get the bubbles out 30 min between water changes so your looking at another 4 hours.
> 
> So 40.5 hours later, I don't have a test meter so I had to use strips and came up with a PH of 6.2 not the goal I was looking for but I don't think it was the fault of the cleaning system or the USER you see my system has a volume of 2550ml and I was sent 50ml and at 25ml mixed with 975ml and you have 1000ml
> With 50ml you can only get 2000ml out of part 2 and that left me ~13.75ml short .
> 
> So in the end I learned a lot more about my system then I ever knew before. and very satisfied with the results.
> 
> I Just want to say Thank You to Mayhems and especially (Mick) for helping me git my system in tip top shape
> 
> Thank You Chris.
> My thoughts Mick you might thank about Taylor fitting the cleaning system to peoples systems maybe a 1000ml kit ( for small systems)
> a 2000ml kit (for average systems) which is what you sent me and a 3000ml kit ( for extreme systems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I don't know maybe just a thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Mick
> And about that PH test meter you are planing to sell do you have a solid price and when are you going to start selling them? I
> would like to get my hands on one so I can find out were my system really sits.


Dang, that's a good looking build. A really wicked cross of sci-fi and modern.


----------



## d00bzilla

This rig brings tears of joy to my eyes.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Dang, that's a good looking build. A really wicked cross of sci-fi and modern.


Thanks ZytheEKS still not done I have a grill coming to cover up the fans on the right LOL I keep thanking I will be done BUT I keep coming up with stuff
I want to do the last few weeks I added Aquaero electronics to my system IT JUST NEVER STOPS












Again Thanks Chris


----------



## 15goudreau

omg spoiler those pics!!!


----------



## stickg1

Yah right, quote them again, that rig is looking sweet!


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yah right, quote them again, that rig is looking sweet!


the rig is sweet no doubt. But those on mobile will thank you for not loading 15 pictures over again


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> the rig is sweet no doubt. But those on mobile will thank you for not loading 15 pictures over again


lol sorry but I did promise Mick I would tell a story it's a little hard to tell a story without illustration I will try to refrain from so many extravagant pictures in the future









P.S. next time I will serve a tray of cheese with that


----------



## VSG

Not you, the guys quoting entire post without spoiler quotes. This is a general statement valid throughout OCN and not just in here.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not you, the guys quoting entire post without spoiler quotes. This is a general statement valid throughout OCN and not just in here.


sorry I understand now my bad


----------



## 15goudreau

Yeah those pics were awesome and deserve their own post no worries







.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> DI indeed is a pain to measure how ever adding dye the PPM goes through the roof and its much easier to to measure. Also adding coolant makes it easier measure so the end test and begining tests will be easy to see what is happening. Washing out / rinsing are harder to see. Even leaving the top off DI water for a few hours will make it easier to read.
> 
> 
> 
> When they arrive ill send you one for free for testing out our cleaning kit. Thank you so much for tests and im glad to see everything is now clean. As for prices were jumping though some rather large legal hopes atm registering all the chemicals were using so there were fully "REACH" compliant and as soon as we get the thumbs up we can start working our prices ect ect.
> 
> All so a new pic of Part one instructions
Click to expand...


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> When they arrive ill send you one for free for testing out our cleaning kit. Thank you so much for tests and im glad to see everything is now clean. As for prices were jumping though some rather large legal hopes atm registering all the chemicals were using so there were fully "REACH" compliant and as soon as we get the thumbs up we can start working our prices ect ect.
> 
> All so a new pic of Part one instructions


@ Mick

Thank You Mick any time you need help with something just let me know I will be glad to help

Chris


----------



## cyphon

So some of you probably remember the pic i put up with all the dyes. I'm thinking about trying to put together a color mixing guide and wanted to get your guys thoughts and ideas on if it'd be useful and what should be in it.


----------



## d00bzilla

I was thinking about trying to make a gold color. I was going to experiment using yellow pastel as a base then adding a little orange then darkening it with black


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> So some of you probably remember the pic i put up with all the dyes. I'm thinking about trying to put together a color mixing guide and wanted to get your guys thoughts and ideas on if it'd be useful and what should be in it.


You could always get a bunch of shot glasses, one for each color dye, arrange them in a circle according to their place on the color wheel, and drop a set amount of dye in each glass. Then you could have another circle inside there, and mix with the cross color. Repeat that process for about 3 or 4 rings of color, essentially giving you a color wheel of mayhems dyes.

Rather than a mixing guide to achieve specific colors you'd have a reference guide for a bunch of colors so you could know where to start to get the color you want.

Just my


----------



## hftjmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> I was thinking about trying to make a gold color. I was going to experiment using yellow pastel as a base then adding a little orange then darkening it with black


If you used the gold Aurora that could look really sweet.


----------



## d00bzilla

yes but i want something that can run long term


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> yes but i want something that can run long term


A properly designed loop can have Aurora in it for upwards of a year. What components do you have?

//By properly designed loop I don't mean a well designed loop, I mean one with parts compatible with Aurora


----------



## d00bzilla

it would be used in a xspc system, blocks/rads/res with acrylic tube and a d5 pump not necessarily xspc brand. i might do a dual loop so i can run the new black pastel next to it whenever it gets released.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> You could always get a bunch of shot glasses, one for each color dye, arrange them in a circle according to their place on the color wheel, and drop a set amount of dye in each glass. Then you could have another circle inside there, and mix with the cross color. Repeat that process for about 3 or 4 rings of color, essentially giving you a color wheel of mayhems dyes.
> 
> Rather than a mixing guide to achieve specific colors you'd have a reference guide for a bunch of colors so you could know where to start to get the color you want.
> 
> Just my


I was definitely thinking something along these lines with genetic colors and shades rather than specific colors.

The color wheel is a good idea for this. Making a note of it


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I was definitely thinking something along these lines with genetic colors and shades rather than specific colors.
> 
> The color wheel is a good idea for this. Making a note of it


Just be sure to pick up a bunch of shot glasses, good for parties afterwards as well.


----------



## 01fastturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *01fastturtle*
> 
> For one that doesnt know the whole story about someones complaints perhaps you should **** and let them vent they might feel a little better about themselfs buying bunk crap thats advertised to be something its not.. A good answer from any business big or small is NOT to buy something else, but to have a real solution to fix the FU they sold to you in the beginning. I flushed my radiator one time when I installed it, I didnt check my PH nor added any crazy coolant just distilled h20 silver coil and a lil uv red, its not cloudy faded nor has it changed colors. You already blabbed your mouth 58 times in 1 week on overclock and what comes out of your mouth doesnt make any since go play with your $500.00 video card and your $300.00 computer and MYOB!!!!!!!!! Also if you dont like what you read here block me .!!!!!!!!!!


doobzilla


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Just be sure to pick up a bunch of shot glasses, good for parties afterwards as well.


----------



## Mayhem

Oky all Hoops jumped though, All I's Dotted and T' crossed. Please do not ask us what that translates into USA pricing as we don't know yet and Resellers will have to recoup in their shipping costs.

ETA for release date Part 1 and part 2 will be within the next 10 to 14 days, The Pro Version may be upwards of 3 weeks while we await delivery of electronic test meters.

Mayhems Blitz Cleaning system will be sold as 3 different products.

*Mayhems Blitz Pro -* Price will be around *£29.99 iv VAT*
Contents - Will clean up to 4 rads and upto 4 full systems on average.

Part 1 and 2 Blitz
2 Pairs of Nitrate Large Gloves,
Electronic pH Test meter
Instructions of use,
Warning sheets.

[

Its a little higher than we wanted but the costs involved in registering the products with the correct agencies has cost us more than expected and all so covers the extra shipping charges that we will incur.


----------



## whitie63

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky all Hoops jumped though, All I's Dotted and T' crossed.
> 
> Mayhems Blitz Cleaning system will be sold as 3 different products.
> 
> *Mayhems Blitz Pro -* Price will be around *£19.99*
> Contents - Will clean up to 4 rads and upto 4 full systems on average.
> 
> Part 1 and 2 Blitz
> 2 Pairs of Nitrate Large Gloves,
> Electronic pH Test meter
> Instructions of use,
> Warning sheets.
> 
> *Mayhems Blitz Part 1* Price will be around *£9.99*
> Contents - Will make 2 Ltrs of Rad Cleaning Fluid
> 
> Part 1 Only
> 2 pairs of gloves
> pH Test strips
> Instructions for use
> Warning sheet
> .
> 
> *Mayhems Blitz Part 2* Price will be around *£9.99*
> Contents - Will make 4 Ltrs of Full System Cleaning Fluid
> 
> Part 2 Only
> 2 pairs of gloves
> pH Test strips
> Instructions for use
> Warning sheet
> Its a little higher than we wanted but the costs involved in registering the products with the correct agencies has cost us more than expected and all so covers the extra shipping charges that we will incur.






NICE!!


----------



## Mayhem

@whitie63 weve taken you advise on board as well and adjusted our documentation saying about part 2 foaming like mad. We all so double the amount part 2 will make so people like your self with big rigs can get at least 2 x 2ltr system cleans out of it


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky all Hoops jumped though, All I's Dotted and T' crossed. Please do not ask us what that translates into USA pricing as we don't know yet and Resellers will have to recoup in their shipping costs.
> 
> ETA for release date Part 1 and part 2 will be within the next 10 to 14 days, The Pro Version may be upwards of 3 weeks while we await delivery of electronic test meters.
> 
> Mayhems Blitz Cleaning system will be sold as 3 different products.
> 
> *Mayhems Blitz Pro -* Price will be around *£19.99*
> Contents - Will clean up to 4 rads and upto 4 full systems on average.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 1 and 2 Blitz
> 2 Pairs of Nitrate Large Gloves,
> Electronic pH Test meter
> Instructions of use,
> Warning sheets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Mayhems Blitz Part 1* Price will be around *£9.99*
> Contents - Will make 2 Ltrs of Rad Cleaning Fluid
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 1 Only
> 2 pairs of gloves
> pH Test strips
> Instructions for use
> Warning sheet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Mayhems Blitz Part 2* Price will be around *£9.99*
> Contents - Will make 4 Ltrs of Full System Cleaning Fluid
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part 2 Only
> 2 pairs of gloves
> pH Test strips
> Instructions for use
> Warning sheet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a little higher than we wanted but the costs involved in registering the products with the correct agencies has cost us more than expected and all so covers the extra shipping charges that we will incur.


Great news!! Will it be available in North American retailers or directly with Mayhems?


----------



## Mayhem

We first need to make sure all our retailers are informed correctly and have all the updated SDS sheets so that they are fully compliant and aware of this product. We will so need to update our own site to make sure all the logos are in place. :/ But it will be on our site first.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @whitie63 weve taken you advise on board as well and adjusted our documentation saying about part 2 foaming like mad. We all so double the amount part 2 will make so people like your self with big rigs can get at least 2 x 2ltr system cleans out of it


@Mick

wow that's awesome thanks Mick


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We first need to make sure all our retailers are informed correctly and have all the updated SDS sheets so that they are fully compliant and aware of this product. We will so need to update our own site to make sure all the logos are in place. :/ But it will be on our site first.


Okay thanks!


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky all Hoops jumped though, All I's Dotted and T' crossed. Please do not ask us what that translates into USA pricing as we don't know yet and Resellers will have to recoup in their shipping costs.
> 
> ETA for release date Part 1 and part 2 will be within the next 10 to 14 days, The Pro Version may be upwards of 3 weeks while we await delivery of electronic test meters.
> 
> Mayhems Blitz Cleaning system will be sold as 3 different products.
> 
> *Mayhems Blitz Pro -* Price will be around *£19.99*
> Contents - Will clean up to 4 rads and upto 4 full systems on average.
> 
> Part 1 and 2 Blitz
> 2 Pairs of Nitrate Large Gloves,
> Electronic pH Test meter
> Instructions of use,
> Warning sheets.
> 
> *Mayhems Blitz Part 1* Price will be around *£9.99*
> Contents - Will make 2 Ltrs of Rad Cleaning Fluid
> 
> Part 1 Only
> 2 pairs of gloves
> pH Test strips
> Instructions for use
> Warning sheet
> .
> 
> *Mayhems Blitz Part 2* Price will be around *£9.99*
> Contents - Will make 4 Ltrs of Full System Cleaning Fluid
> 
> Part 2 Only
> 2 pairs of gloves
> pH Test strips
> Instructions for use
> Warning sheet
> Its a little higher than we wanted but the costs involved in registering the products with the correct agencies has cost us more than expected and all so covers the extra shipping charges that we will incur.


Great news


----------



## d00bzilla

Ya shipping anything caustic costs you a lot. I have to pay surcharges at work all the time on certain products like commercial strength h2o2. We understand.


----------



## friskiest

Hi all,

I'm looking to sort of match the blue heatsinks/pcie slot on the Z77IA-E53.



Would it be best to start off with pastel white and then add ocean/dark blue/ to taste?

Or is there a better way to approach this?

I find the blue berry a bit too light, but i suppose this could be darkend up with some more of the dark blue dye, no?

Appreciate any input


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm looking to sort of match the blue heatsinks/pcie slot on the Z77IA-E53.
> 
> 
> 
> Would it be best to start off with pastel white and then add ocean/dark blue/ to taste?
> 
> Or is there a better way to approach this?
> 
> I find the blue berry a bit too light, but i suppose this could be darkend up with some more of the dark blue dye, no?
> 
> Appreciate any input


Pastel Blueberry is white + blue dye, unless I'm mistaken blue and dark blue are two completely separate color bases, in that dark blue is not just a bunch of light blue.

You had the right train of thought. I'd get pastel white, deep blue dye, and ocean dye; then just experiment.


----------



## bigbangSG

can i ask what do Mayhems Blitz Pro do? new in watercooling


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> can i ask what do Mayhems Blitz Pro do? new in watercooling


Part 1 cleans the radiators, removes all the excess flux, and all the debris and crap from poor manufacturer preping.

Part 2 neutralizes the pH so overly acidic or overly alkaline remnants in the loop don't wack out the coolant or even worse accelerate corrosion.


----------



## cyphon

Glad to hear blitz is ready to go. I will have to pick some up when I'm ready to go with next build


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Blitz Pro ... )

Updated



The PH meter has a large LCD read out and Temp button. Its calibrated to PH 7 @ 25c









We are all so adding Safety Goggles and PH Buffer solution into the kis.

So you get

*Mayhems Blitz Pro* Full system Cleaning kit.

Mayhems pro Part 1
Mayhems pro Part 2
PH test meter
PH Buffer Kit
4 sets of gloves
1 set of safety goggles
Warning sheet
Instruction sheet


----------



## 15goudreau

Great work Mick, that's awesome to here.

Friskiest, I would go pastel white + deep blue. Here is what mine looks like with the option to be even darker.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Blitz Pro ... )
> 
> Updated
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The PH meter has a large LCD read out and Temp button. Its calibrated to PH 7 @ 25c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are all so adding Safety Goggles and PH Buffer solution into the kis.
> 
> So you get
> 
> *Mayhems Blitz Pro* Full system Cleaning kit.
> 
> Mayhems pro Part 1
> Mayhems pro Part 2
> PH test meter
> PH Buffer Kit
> 4 sets of gloves
> 1 set of safety goggles
> Warning sheet
> Instruction sheet


May I say, as a lab guy myself, that I love this? This is likely going to be my first Mayhems product just for the heck of it


----------



## friskiest

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Friskiest, I would go pastel white + deep blue. Here is what mine looks like with the option to be even darker.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome, thanks for the pic!

I'll go pastel white with dye then


----------



## bigbangSG

hmm , i though it will be use for maintain my water cooling without taking out everything lol


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> hmm , i though it will be use for maintain my water cooling without taking out everything lol


XT-1 is for that or X1 if you don't want EG.


----------



## xOperator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Intel i5 4670k @ 4.4Ghz
> GTX 780
> 
> CPU idle - 28c
> CPU Arma 3 highest settings - 45c
> CPU prime95 - 77c
> 
> GPU idle - 29c
> GPU playing BF3 highest settings - 37c
> 
> i just wanted as silent a computer as i could because it runs 24/7 in my bedroom and i love my sleep. you can barely hear this thing run from 5 feet away. the p280 isn't exactly the roomiest case either but it has good sound dampening looks classy when closed up.
> 
> my almighty iphone 5s really doesn't like to shoot blue in low light :\


what fans are you using, and what are their RPMs ?


----------



## d00bzilla

Stock xspc fans which spin at 1650 at full power but I have the fan speeds tied to the CPU temp

30c = 30%
40c = 40%
50c = 50%
60c = 70%
70c = 100%

Since that post I've raised the OC to 4.6Ghz. Prime95 is now hitting ~92c but real everyday loads (gaming) I'm usually around 55c.

I'm working on modding my p280 case to ditch the HD racks and 5.5 bays so I can move the 240 rad to the front of the case and make room for a 360 up top. When I get a little farther I'll be making a build log in the case mod section but here's a sneak peek.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Blitz pro is up for pre order with an ETA for release. (sorry i cannot provide links)

Performance PCs our official USA distributor have pre ordered a load of them for the USA market so if you're over in the USA you would be better off holding back and ordering direct from them.


----------



## ROGX

Hey Mayhem, im going to watercool, and i really want to use your Pastel red, but in some pics, it looks Kinda pink.. but i cant decide if i should do Pastel red + Clear tubing OR Clear Coolant/H20 + Red tubing. Which do you think will look better? and sorry (im completly knew to the watercooling world) but which tubing size should i get? im pretty confused about it , im looking for something not to big, or to small. Thanks for the help!


----------



## 15goudreau

You can add blue to it to darken it up


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROGX*
> 
> Hey Mayhem, im going to watercool, and i really want to use your Pastel red, but in some pics, it looks Kinda pink.. but i cant decide if i should do Pastel red + Clear tubing OR Clear Coolant/H20 + Red tubing. Which do you think will look better? and sorry (im completly knew to the watercooling world) but which tubing size should i get? im pretty confused about it , im looking for something not to big, or to small. Thanks for the help!


looks pink with bright white light on it. listen to goudreau and mix your colors under these lighting conditions to get an accurate color.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We first need to make sure all our retailers are informed correctly and have all the updated SDS sheets so that they are fully compliant and aware of this product. We will so need to update our own site to make sure all the logos are in place. :/ But it will be on our site first.


This is an amazing product and something that might help my system. However when it comes to retailers. If they do not already have someone on their staff that have passed the certification test for shipping hazardous materials they may not want to take on the cost of getting it done. I do not know what my previous employer paid to get me and 1 other co-worker certified but I know they didn't want to pay for it. And if you don't already know shipping hazardous materials in the US the MSDS sheets are required to be on the outside of the package.

AND on another note. I am back to the same issue with my UV Lime Yellow Coolant. Maybe its residual plasicizers in my loop that I didn't clean out properly, but I cannot be sure. I drained the loop and filtered the coolant through coffee filters multiple times. It looks the same as the day it went into my system when I got my replacement bottles. So I am sure the coolant itself is not contaminated and causing any discolorations. But something chalky is building up on my tubing. Last weekend I drained and cleaned everything out. I flushed the entire system with a vinegar solution, then with a bicarb solution. Which was fun to watch at first cause I didn't drain 1 of my blocks completely(remember those volcano science projects?). Then I ran plain distilled for 2 hours then drained and repeated 4 times. Then I refilled the system with the pastel.

Here are a few pics of the acrylic tubing with the buildup. It has a SLIGHTLY green tint to it but as the coolant is yellow/green that is expected. And as stated before it is chalky, which I noticed maybe cyphon said the pastel can leave in your system. And then a pic of the res as it sits right now. The buildup is already starting again. One thing I noticed before I drained it was that if I would leave the fill port on the top of the res open that the buildup effectively stopped. For weeks I noticed it get worse and worse, then I ran it with the fitting on the top open enough to let pressure out and the buildup at least in the res visibly stopped. I run a Swiftech MCP-35X at around 2700 RPM and rarely does it go above or below that speed.











I'm the guy you gave this as a sample to before it was released. And due to the post below I haven't had the cash to send you samples of my old tubing. I will be sending you a sample of both my acrylic and the primochill advanced LRT that I was supposed to send you a while back. I still have the address in my PMs and should get it out on Monday.


----------



## Stuntfly02

A preview for all you mayhems loyalists of the rig I'm currently finishing up. Some teaser shots of it filled before I RMA'd my pump and decided to add a watercooled GPU and another radiator.


----------



## z0ki

Hey guys im looking to pull away from just the standard DI water + Liquid utopia and have a crack at Mayhems for the first time. I am looking at getting the Pastel blue berry im just wondering what is the procedure in using this correctly? It's going in a whole new loop that has only really been flushed wit DI water (well will be once my 900D build is complete)

Do i just pour the 250ml bottle into a large DI water bottle? If i have more than 1ltr of liquid in my loop will i need 2x 250ml of the blue berry colour?

And im just wondering is there any issues of gunk build up in blocks with using this stuff and how often will it need to be changed?


----------



## ROGX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> You can add blue to it to darken it up


Okay and do you mean to add pastel blue?


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Hey guys im looking to pull away from just the standard DI water + Liquid utopia and have a crack at Mayhems for the first time. I am looking at getting the Pastel blue berry im just wondering what is the procedure in using this correctly? It's going in a whole new loop that has only really been flushed wit DI water (well will be once my 900D build is complete)
> 
> Do i just pour the 250ml bottle into a large DI water bottle? If i have more than 1ltr of liquid in my loop will i need 2x 250ml of the blue berry colour?
> 
> And im just wondering is there any issues of gunk build up in blocks with using this stuff and how often will it need to be changed?


As it has been said about 1000 times now, No Mayhems Pastel will not gunk up in our blocks at all.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROGX*
> 
> Okay and do you mean to add pastel blue?


No, I'm sure he means blue Mayhems Dye


----------



## Mayhem

Stuntfly02 Yeh we know about SDS sheets the new law in the EU is about SDS sheets as MSDS sheets are out. The content of the fluids (as in amount used in the product) is below the threshold how ever we've bumped up the warning to the next level just to make sure and make sure our due diligence is in place. These kits will be in sealed boxes and are safe for shipping if they are kept closed and the products are in child safety capped bottles (as per the norm).


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Hey guys im looking to pull away from just the standard DI water + Liquid utopia and have a crack at Mayhems for the first time. I am looking at getting the Pastel blue berry im just wondering what is the procedure in using this correctly? It's going in a whole new loop that has only really been flushed wit DI water (well will be once my 900D build is complete)
> 
> Do i just pour the 250ml bottle into a large DI water bottle? If i have more than 1ltr of liquid in my loop will i need 2x 250ml of the blue berry colour?
> 
> And im just wondering is there any issues of gunk build up in blocks with using this stuff and how often will it need to be changed?


Mixed 250ml of Pastel concentrated with 750ml of DI or distilled water to create 1L of coolant. If you need more than 1L, then you can mixed two bottles of Pastel concentrated (250 + 250 ml) with 1500ml of DI or distilled water to create 2L of coolant. You can stored the remaining coolant in dark place like in closet.

I did asked & was advised not to diluted it with more DI/distilled water because it will cause the little solid particles in the Pastel fall out of suspension.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Latest pictures of "Project Magis" Nearly done!


----------



## hftjmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Latest pictures of "Project Magis" Nearly done!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> /q


Wow. Super clean. Absolutely love the looks of this build. One question though. What kind of case is that. Tried reading the front but couldn't quite make it out.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hftjmac*
> 
> Wow. Super clean. Absolutely love the looks of this build. One question though. What kind of case is that. Tried reading the front but couldn't quite make it out.


Thanks! Caselabs S5 with pedestal


----------



## darwing

Just ordered Pastel Mahyems Blue Berry with clear tubing to replicate this build


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Blitz pro is up for pre order with an ETA for release. (sorry i cannot provide links)
> 
> Performance PCs our official USA distributor have pre ordered a load of them for the USA market so if you're over in the USA you would be better off holding back and ordering direct from them.


I will keep an eye out for it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Latest pictures of "Project Magis" Nearly done!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice


----------



## Cerano

guys can this kit work ok with mayhems ice white pastel? wont gunk up right?

how often should i change it and how do i drain my loop easily?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-h3o-360-hfx.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15036/ex-wat-200/EK_H30_360_HFX_Advanced_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_-_CSQ_EK-KIT_H3O_360_HFX.html


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cerano*
> 
> guys can this kit work ok with mayhems ice white pastel? wont gunk up right?
> 
> how often should i change it and how do i drain my loop easily?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-h3o-360-hfx.html
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15036/ex-wat-200/EK_H30_360_HFX_Advanced_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_-_CSQ_EK-KIT_H3O_360_HFX.html


And again, coolant doesn't GUNK up your system, plasticizer in tubing does, it's just made visible by the coolants coloring/Dye.

All of the Mayhems Pastels are rated at 2 years+, and to drain the system, plumb in some form of drain valve. Most kit systems don't provide for draining as shipped.


----------



## Cerano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> And again, coolant doesn't GUNK up your system, plasticizer in tubing does, it's just made visible by the coolants coloring/Dye.
> 
> All of the Mayhems Pastels are rated at 2 years+, and to drain the system, plumb in some form of drain valve. Most kit systems don't provide for draining as shipped.


in this case, would the included tubes in the kit leech plasticiser? otherwise what tubes would you recommend?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cerano*
> 
> in this case, would the included tubes in the kit leech plasticiser? otherwise what tubes would you recommend?


I've heard that Masterkleer can leech, I've only used the Primochill Advanced LRT for flexible tubing, and I've had zero issues with plasticizer leeching. I've used it with both Mayhems Pastels and the X1 with nothing negative to say from any of it. But, I do use EK blocks and have used their rads before, they are top notch products.


----------



## mocboy123

I'm currently using Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cerano*
> 
> guys can this kit work ok with mayhems ice white pastel? wont gunk up right?
> 
> how often should i change it and how do i drain my loop easily?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-h3o-360-hfx.html
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15036/ex-wat-200/EK_H30_360_HFX_Advanced_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_-_CSQ_EK-KIT_H3O_360_HFX.html


It'll work fine with pastel, no gunking will occur. Pastel can last anywhere from a year to two years, I wouldn't leave it in any longer than 2.5 years.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> And again, coolant doesn't GUNK up your system, plasticizer in tubing does, it's just made visible by the coolants coloring/Dye.
> 
> All of the Mayhems Pastels are rated at 2 years+, and to drain the system, plumb in some form of drain valve. Most kit systems don't provide for draining as shipped.


Not entirely true, glycol and copper sulfate react to create the infamous gunk. That isn't an issue here since pastel isn't a glycol based coolant, but there are the facts.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Not entirely true, glycol and copper sulfate react to create the infamous gunk. That isn't an issue here since pastel isn't a glycol based coolant, but there are the facts.


Okay


----------



## ROGX

Can anyone help me out?
Well im planning on using the Aluminum Crosschill blocks on my Maximus VI formula, with a nickel Cpu block, and a COPPER Rad. the question i have is iv heard some pretty bad stuff about using Aluminum with copper, and if i use pastel red , would i be safe from corrosion? Thanks.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROGX*
> 
> Can anyone help me out?
> Well im planning on using the Aluminum Crosschill blocks on my Maximus VI formula, with a nickel Cpu block, and a COPPER Rad. the question i have is iv heard some pretty bad stuff about using Aluminum with copper, and if i use pastel red , would i be safe from corrosion? Thanks.


Aluminum is terrible in loops because it reacts with the copper, and rapidly corrodes. The aluminum in the crosschill blocks in anodized, which prevents it from reacting with the water, if it can't react with water it can't react with the copper. Anodized aluminum isn't the best thermal transfer medium but motherboards don't make much heat to begin with so it should be fine.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Aluminum is terrible in loops because it reacts with the copper, and rapidly corrodes. The aluminum in the crosschill blocks in anodized, which prevents it from reacting with the water, if it can't react with water it can't react with the copper. Anodized aluminum isn't the best thermal transfer medium but motherboards don't make much heat to begin with so it should be fine.


This ^^^^^, it hasn't caused me any issues with my crosschill block in the loop.


----------



## ROGX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> This ^^^^^, it hasn't caused me any issues with my crosschill block in the loop.


Cool, how long have you been using it? And what Coolant are you using? Sorry lol, I just don't want to get corrosion and screw up my entire loop, and have to buy new blocks etc..


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROGX*
> 
> Cool, how long have you been using it? And what Coolant are you using? Sorry lol, I just don't want to get corrosion and screw up my entire loop, and have to buy new blocks etc..


As long as you don't run any acids or stripping agents through your loop the anodized surface should never wear off. Anodized aluminum in of itself is quite simply corroded aluminum. Basically they make the block corrode very lightly, which creates a non reactive layer of material over the block preventing it from reacting with the water. Again, it's not the best option for thermal transfer but the motherboard doesn't make much heat to begin with so it's fine.


----------



## ROGX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> As long as you don't run any acids or stripping agents through your loop the anodized surface should never wear off. Anodized aluminum in of itself is quite simply corroded aluminum. Basically they make the block corrode very lightly, which creates a non reactive layer of material over the block preventing it from reacting with the water. Again, it's not the best option for thermal transfer but the motherboard doesn't make much heat to begin with so it's fine.


Thanks for the help! Completely new too water cooling.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROGX*
> 
> Cool, how long have you been using it? And what Coolant are you using? Sorry lol, I just don't want to get corrosion and screw up my entire loop, and have to buy new blocks etc..


Lol, since the day the board was released, actually, the day after, I've built so many systems lately I don't honestly remember. 6-8 months so far? I was running Pastel Red up until this last weekend, I've drained the system and pulled it apart for the new cards to go in, and I've seen zero issue aside from a little bit of staining from the red Dye in the coolant. Otherwise, it's perfect, as were the old blocks for the GPU and CPU.


----------



## z0ki

Hey guys just wondering is it safe to run my new fresh loop with DI water onky for a few hours with no other additives then add a pastel color to the res? Or should I flush my loop as best as possible then mix the color in a DI water bottle then add it?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Hey guys just wondering is it safe to run my new fresh loop with DI water onky for a few hours with no other additives then add a pastel color to the res? *Or should I flush my loop as best as possible then mix the color in a DI water bottle then add it?*


Flush, mix your coolant and then add to the loop.


----------



## z0ki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Flush, mix your coolant and then add to the loop.


Will it matter if i don't flush all the liquid from rads, like if there is still some left will it matter?

I got 3 rads in my 900D and im sure if i were to flush it some liquid will still be left somewhere inside


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Hey guys just wondering is it safe to run my new fresh loop with DI water onky for a few hours with no other additives then add a pastel color to the res? Or should I flush my loop as best as possible then mix the color in a DI water bottle then add it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Will it matter if i don't flush all the liquid from rads, like if there is still some left will it matter?
> 
> I got 3 rads in my 900D and im sure if i were to flush it some liquid will still be left somewhere inside


Is the hardware new? Flush with lemon juice water, 1:4 ratio, then with a bicarb. 1tb baking soda to 1 liter hot distilled water.

The reason for this is many rads still have flux in them, and flux will mess with coolant.

If the hardware isn't new, and hasn't had ANY additives other than water, so no copper sulphate, benzyl chloride, or anything like that, then drain, mix your pastel, then fill. It's not a good idea to just eyeball mix pastel. It's not like X1 where if you mess up the ratio you just get slightly lower performance, or less corrosion protection, if you get bad mix ratios pastel will fall out of suspension quicker.


----------



## z0ki

Yeah the whole system and loop is new.. I have flushed the rads individually. So I am guessing I have no real need to flush anymore do I? Just put 250ml of pastel in 1ltr and fill?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Yeah the whole system and loop is new.. I have flushed the rads individually. So I am guessing I have no real need to flush anymore do I? Just put 250ml of pastel in 1ltr and fill?


I'd still flush with a bicarb. Basically that will keep your loop from having anything in it that might mess with Pastels pH. Pastel isn't super sensitive to pH but it's better to be safe than sorry. An imbalanced pH can cause the pastel to turn brownish. Again, pastel is not super sensitive to pH. Unless I'm mistaken you mix 250ml of pastel to 750ml of distilled water to make 1 liter of coolant. Don't dilute it, it may make it fall out of suspension.


----------



## bigbangSG

is it possible to make uv coolant light up without using led?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> is it possible to make uv coolant light up without using led?


Cold Cathode Florescent Lights, also called CCFLs, cold cathodes, or cathodes. People advise against LEDs for UV effects, because only 8% of the light generated from UV LEDs is actually UV light, the rest is within the visible light spectrum. You can find them at any computer enthusiast stores or online websites. If you have an old halloween blacklight laying around I would recommend hardmodding that into your chassis if you're up for a challenge, they produce MUCH more light than the tiny CCFLs used in computers.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Cold Cathode Florescent Lights, also called CCFLs, cold cathodes, or cathodes. People advise against LEDs for UV effects, because only 8% of the light generated from UV LEDs is actually UV light, the rest is within the visible light spectrum. You can find them at any computer enthusiast stores or online websites. If you have an old halloween blacklight laying around I would recommend hardmodding that into your chassis if you're up for a challenge, they produce MUCH more light than the tiny CCFLs used in computers.


this is lit up with LEDs



got them off eBay 20 bucks for 5 yards


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> got them off eBay 20 bucks for 5 yards


I just got one of those 5m strips too but in the 590nm spectrum for my upcoming build that's in the case mod build log section. Great thing about them is you can just wire it to a molex connector and plug it into your power supply. Just too easy. Going to use the extra for matching accent lighting under my desk.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> I just got one of those 5m strips too but in the 590nm spectrum for my upcoming build that's in the case mod build log section. Great thing about them is you can just wire it to a molex connector and plug it into your power supply. Just too easy. Going to use the extra for matching accent lighting under my desk.


yeah that's what I'm talking about


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> is it possible to make uv coolant light up without using led?


UV LEDs tend to wash out the entire case in a purplish light. Here is an example of my non water cooled loop with UV LEDs vs UV Cold Cathodes. CCFLs tend to give off a more ambient lighting effect versus the washed out look you get from LEDs when new.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/4590#post_21524074


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitie63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Cold Cathode Florescent Lights, also called CCFLs, cold cathodes, or cathodes. People advise against LEDs for UV effects, because only 8% of the light generated from UV LEDs is actually UV light, the rest is within the visible light spectrum. You can find them at any computer enthusiast stores or online websites. If you have an old halloween blacklight laying around I would recommend hardmodding that into your chassis if you're up for a challenge, they produce MUCH more light than the tiny CCFLs used in computers.
> 
> 
> 
> this is lit up with LEDs
> 
> 
> 
> got them off eBay 20 bucks for 5 yards
Click to expand...

When taking pictures of it all lit up it looks more blue than purple like the above pic.


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> When taking pictures of it all lit up it looks more blue than purple like the above pic.


I used to have cathode lighting in my case I found them to be week didn't seem to put out much light I had to all the way around and they tend to look ugly you can't hide them that's why I went with LED's I can hide in anywhere


----------



## 15goudreau

I would disagree I think the cathodes look better because it's a more filling light, where as LEDs are spot lighting. I hide them easily is the sides of my case where if you are looking right at it you don't see anything. I think it is a lot of personal preference though.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I would disagree I think the cathodes look better because it's a more filling light, where as LEDs are spot lighting. I hide them easily is the sides of my case where if you are looking right at it you don't see anything. I think it is a lot of personal preference though.


Look at the post I made a page back with the link to a previous page in this thread. That is the difference between UV LED and UV Cold Cathodes.


----------



## whitie63

*Cold Cathode*


*UV LED*


I don't know the cold cathodes are just a eyesore if you ask me







but then again I do use an aqaero controler with
*White LED's to* so I am able to adjust and balance it out if you used 12 volts on everything it can be too much with that being said your lighting could look like this



just saying to each his own


----------



## M3TAl

Finally ordered some Advanced LRT and some other odds and ends, got it all for 50% off. Crossing my fingers it doesn't turn green like this Durelene. The Durelene problem has already been discussed, it wasn't plasticizer or algae and the Pastel is still white as day one. Considering it's not brown either I would guess pH is fine too. All been running for about 4 months now.

System looked so much better when the tubing was actually clear/white, got high hopes for this Advanced LRT.


----------



## bigbangSG

Is 1pcs enought for my case?? I using enthoo primo


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> Is 1pcs enought for my case?? I using enthoo primo


1pcs of what? Its impossible to tell you when we don't even know what you are talking about >.>.


----------



## bigbangSG

I mean 1 long pcs of ccfl


----------



## Cerano

guys... so should i stick with masterkleer in the ek kit or top up more to get primochill adv lrt? i dont want it to clog up.... or turn cloudy


----------



## 15goudreau

How much light do you want in your case? how long a cathode are we talking about they make 4" 8 " and 12"


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cerano*
> 
> guys... so should i stick with masterkleer in the ek kit or top up more to get primochill adv lrt? i dont want it to clog up.... or turn cloudy


Are you in the States? Just ordered some Advanced LRT 50% off at Jab Tech. I'd assume most of it is already out of stock by now though.


----------



## bigbangSG

tink of getting this from amazon, is it good
Logisys CLK12 12" Cold Cathode Kit with Dual Tube, 3.0mm Tube Diameter, UV


----------



## 15goudreau

Yeah that's what I have. Depending on where you put it in your case it should work pretty well.


----------



## bigbangSG

where do u put it in your case ?
tink of putting it on the top and bottom of my case


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> where do u put it in your case ?
> tink of putting it on the top and bottom of my case


Depends what case you are using to be honest. Going to have to play with locations to get the best effect. Might end up having to use a 4" or 2 to get some of the harder to light areas taken care of.


----------



## Cerano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Are you in the States? Just ordered some Advanced LRT 50% off at Jab Tech. I'd assume most of it is already out of stock by now though.


it's out of stock ): is it worth the upgrade from masterkleer? im afraid of the plasticizer leaching


----------



## M3TAl

Well every one says Advanced LRT is great stuff, I've never used it. Never used Masterkleer either, just this Durelene which turned green on me







. It like absorbed copper corrosion or something I don't know but it looks awful. Looked really good for the first two weeks or so though lol.

Do you guys think I should dismantle the loop and look inside the rads and blocks for corrosion and clean with bicarb? The Pastel itself is fine, still white as day one.

As long as this Advanced LRT doesn't turn green or cloud I'll be happy.


----------



## Mayhem

Were now in talks with supplying NCIX in Canada.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Were now in talks with supplying NCIX in Canada.


Very very nice news for me here!!!


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cerano*
> 
> it's out of stock ): is it worth the upgrade from masterkleer? im afraid of the plasticizer leaching


i used the masterkleer from an EK kit and it was cloudy within one month. i replaced it with primochill advanced LRT and though they did cloud after quite some time, it was nowhere near as bad or as fast as the masterkleer. get something different would be my advice.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cerano*
> 
> it's out of stock ): is it worth the upgrade from masterkleer? im afraid of the plasticizer leaching


Primochill Advanced is the current recommended and it has treated me well
I have used the XSPC tube and it has been fine for almost a year to date.
Some people like some of the Tygon tube (would need to ask someone for a reference for model)
Some people like some of the Durelene tube (would need to ask someone for a reference for model)

Can always go to hard acrylic tube and never worry about plasticizer again









For non-clear tubing, you can look at neoprene or hard line copper, both are plasticizer free.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Anyone know of any issues with acrylic tubing?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Anyone know of any issues with acrylic tubing?


None, this is the best option for Plasticizer free, but not everyone wants to go down this route. Still adding to my previous post for completeness


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ok cool, I am planning on doing acrylic on Project Lazarus since if I'm modding the case as much as I plan might as well go all out lol.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Anyone know of any issues with acrylic tubing?


biggest issue is getting the tubing into your pc. it does take a fair amount of practice to get your tubes bent right, especially if you arent using 90 degree fittings.

my first run of acrylic, i kinked a bend too much, but decided to use it anyway, and about a month or 2 later, a small crack formed in the area where the kink was and it started to leak. this was user error as i never should have put that bend in there, but i didnt have enough tube to bend another run.


----------



## d00bzilla

Look for the mandrel kits on frozencpu. Makes bending acrylic so much easier. Been working with mine for a couple days now. Really takes the guess work out of it.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> biggest issue is getting the tubing into your pc. it does take a fair amount of practice to get your tubes bent right, especially if you arent using 90 degree fittings.
> 
> my first run of acrylic, i kinked a bend too much, but decided to use it anyway, and about a month or 2 later, a small crack formed in the area where the kink was and it started to leak. this was user error as i never should have put that bend in there, but i didnt have enough tube to bend another run.


Yeah I was worried about some of mine, but they been fine so far. Doing the tear down soon, so guess we won't find out either.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Look for the mandrel kits on frozencpu. Makes bending acrylic so much easier. Been working with mine for a couple days now. Really takes the guess work out of it.


Definitely gonna buy one for my rebuild. No more inconsistent radius bends and angles just a couple degrees off (hopefully)


----------



## whitie63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> biggest issue is getting the tubing into your pc. it does take a fair amount of practice to get your tubes bent right, especially if you arent using 90 degree fittings.
> 
> my first run of acrylic, i kinked a bend too much, but decided to use it anyway, and about a month or 2 later, a small crack formed in the area where the kink was and it started to leak. this was user error as i never should have put that bend in there, but i didnt have enough tube to bend another run.


I did all mine in hardline acrylic I used 16 feet just to get about seven and a half of usable tube and that was using one of frozen Pc mandrel kits that's a very strong learning curve with that stuff the only real problem I had I use the monsoon hardlock ends and if you do like the guy in the videos said just tighten up and it will pull it over he's wrong it will crack after you have your system up and running so you can't try to force any of it as far as any other issues go I have none


----------



## d00bzilla

Ya you better be handy with a ruler and really take your time if you're bending acrylic.

Just to keep this relevant to mayhem I just ordered the X-1 oil black for my upcoming build


----------



## freitz

What are you all using to clean out your loop between pastel uses? Or how are you cleaning out your loops?


----------



## d00bzilla

the usual way is to run a vinegar solution through the loop for a while then run a baking soda solution afterwards. dump that out, refill with distilled water and check ph to make sure the loop has a neutral ph level. mayhem is coming out with a multi part cleaning system though. don't know when it will hit the shelves though.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> the usual way is to run a vinegar solution through the loop for a while then run a baking soda solution afterwards. dump that out, refill with distilled water and check ph to make sure the loop has a neutral ph level. mayhem is coming out with a multi part cleaning system though. don't know when it will hit the shelves though.


This.

It sounded like in Europe you can pre order from Mayhem now and in the states PPCs has pre ordered a bunch. So I'd say it should be available relatively soonish


----------



## xOperator

Im thinking of getting Mayhems Pastel UV White, but wasn't sure which tubing to get for a better look under UV....

What do you guys think would look better?

Primochill Advanced LRT Crystal Clear or XSPC FLX Premium Clear/UV ?

At the moment, i have Primochill UV Blue tubing, but I kinda want to go the Pastel White look now


----------



## Mayhem

go Primochill Advanced LRT Crystal Clear


----------



## xOperator

Thanks for the answer


----------



## mikegray

Hi guys!

My loop is going to have about a week of downtime on account of burning out my Acquacomputer XT Ultra. (Sigh. Everything was working perfectly, and I had just spent a couple hours sorting out the mess of cables in my system. When I restarted, I must have put the USB cable in backwards. Sigh.)

Since I had filled the system with Mayhems Pastel White UV just yesterday, I really don't want to pour that precious nectar down the drain - so I ran the fluid through a coffee filter into clean glass jar. Two questions:

- To reuse the fluid, I just pour it out of the jar, back into the res and top it off with some more from my original plastic bottle - maybe through the filter again, right?

- I've left my loop in place - just removed the pump/res combo to send it in to the manufacturer. Do I need to rinse the loop or can I leave it sitting for a week exactly as is - with beads of leftover mayhems fluid here and there? (I'm a little worried that it could evaporate, leaving pigment or residue behind.

Mike


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikegray*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> My loop is going to have about a week of downtime on account of burning out my Acquacomputer XT Ultra. (Sigh. Everything was working perfectly, and I had just spent a couple hours sorting out the mess of cables in my system. When I restarted, I must have put the USB cable in backwards. Sigh.)
> 
> Since I had filled the system with Mayhems Pastel White UV just yesterday, I really don't want to pour that precious nectar down the drain - so I ran the fluid through a coffee filter into clean glass jar. Two questions:
> 
> - To reuse the fluid, I just pour it out of the jar, back into the res and top it off with some more from my original plastic bottle - maybe through the filter again, right?
> 
> - I've left my loop in place - just removed the pump/res combo to send it in to the manufacturer. Do I need to rinse the loop or can I leave it sitting for a week exactly as is - with beads of leftover mayhems fluid here and there? (I'm a little worried that it could evaporate, leaving pigment or residue behind.
> 
> Mike


I would wash out your Rads. Also Make sure to flush your new Pump/res combo.

I would also run the fluid through the filter again before reuse. I don't see an issue with reusing the fluid.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I would wash out your Rads. Also Make sure to flush your new Pump/res combo.
> 
> I would also run the fluid through the filter again before reuse. I don't see an issue with reusing the fluid.


Pretty much this. It can be reused without issue.

Also, in between using it, make sure you are storing it appropriately. The mayhems bottles are good if you have them because they block out light pretty good, but really you want something air-tight and in a cool dark location.


----------



## mikegray

Thanks guys!

One question: Is there any chance that the will dry out in my tubes and leave residue that sticks to the sides?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikegray*
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> One question: Is there any chance that the will dry out in my tubes and leave residue that sticks to the sides?


If your tubes are drying out, I think you would have to have a whole other set of problems....


----------



## mikegray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> If your tubes are drying out, I think you would have to have a whole other set of problems....


Well, I mean, I've emptied all the liquid out of the loop, so all that's left is a drops here and there.


----------



## gdubc

Sorry, I couldn't help being a wise asss...


----------



## mikegray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Sorry, I couldn't help being a wise asss...


Aaargh. Sorry man - I must have forgotten to fire up the old ironi-scope this morning ...


----------



## Blackops_2

There are no issues running pastel in a waterfall bay res like the EK is there?


----------



## tuanhoang314

Does Mayhems ice white pastel expire? i just bought a bottle from frozen cpu and there is a date on the side of the bottle that is 7/2014


----------



## 15goudreau

It should last at least 2 years in that bottle...


----------



## Blackops_2

Also places to find pastel coolant 1L already mixed? Or can you only find the concentrate?


----------



## Mayhem

Actually it will last 5 years in the bottles but we say 3 from date of manufacture to cover our asses.

@Blackops_2 PPC is getting pre mix in, there just waiting for their ship to come in literally. We sent over 3 pallets a while back.


----------



## M3TAl

Really, really frustrated right now and need your helps guys... Was draining my loop to put in new Advanced LRT to replace this Durelene which turned green and well apparently the Pastel went green too. The explanation I received in the Plasticizer thread was that Durelene doesn't play nice with Pastel and it likes to turn green from oxidation in copper or something along those lines. The Pastel looked fine in my plexi blocks and res but compared to unused pastel... Yuck

Oh and I had a good amount of unused Pastel left over probably near 800mL but apparently it leaked from the container it was stored in... What you see in that photo is ALL that's left of my unused Pastel...

Where do I go from here? All I have is distilled water and a kill coil (was never used with the Pastel obviously). Not sure why everything turned green, I followed all the normal procedures for cleaning the rads and mixing the Pastel etc...

Do I need to nuke the whole system with vinegar mix and then the bicarb? AH just so





















right now!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Really, really frustrated right now and need your helps guys... Was draining my loop to put in new Advanced LRT to replace this Durelene which turned green and well apparently the Pastel went green too. The explanation I received in the Plasticizer thread was that Durelene doesn't play nice with Pastel and it likes to turn green from oxidation in copper or something along those lines. The Pastel looked fine in my plexi blocks and res but compared to unused pastel... Yuck
> 
> Oh and I had a good amount of unused Pastel left over probably near 800mL but apparently it leaked from the container it was stored in... What you see in that photo is ALL that's left of my unused Pastel...
> 
> Where do I go from here? All I have is distilled water and a kill coil (was never used with the Pastel obviously). Not sure why everything turned green, I followed all the normal procedures for cleaning the rads and mixing the Pastel etc...
> 
> Do I need to nuke the whole system with vinegar mix and then the bicarb? AH just so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> right now!


With that much copper dissolved in it, I would nuke the system as you put it and do a caustic bath then a bicarb cleaning. Sorry dude! That sucks!


----------



## giltyler

Spring time is here and with it spring cleaning.
I would take the components out and gently clean them with a mild vinegar/distilled water mix and use a soft plastic bristle brush on all the internal surfaces of the blocks and it should clean up very nice.

I just went though my loop and completely cleaned the block and radiators and put in some fresh PRIMOCHIL tubing.


----------



## M3TAl

I'll take everything apart and do a thorough cleaning. Not looking forward to this







.

Running just a kill coil and distilled after it's all cleaned will be fine right? Don't have anything else and really can't spend anymore on PC things right now.


----------



## giltyler

That is how I am running right now distilled and a kill coil.

I got my eye on some Mayhems though since I just got a new dual bay reservoir and want some color.


----------



## M3TAl

You know... my blocks look fine. Well I can't see in the GPU block but looking into clear Plexi Supremacy the copper looks good as day one. So do the mosfet and NB blocks. No discoloration on the copper from what I can see. The blocks were cleaned by hand before use with lemon then thoroughly rinsed. The copper still looks great to my eyes. Loop has only been running for little over 4 months.

I think the problem is these Alphacool rads and maybe the combination of Durelene and Pastel? Looking down into one of the rad's holes it definitely looks discolored in there. Maybe I should just take the 3 rads out and fill them with vinegar and water mix and shake them around? Then bicarb and water? Rinse multiple times after.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You know... my blocks look fine. Well I can't see in the GPU block but looking into clear Plexi Supremacy the copper looks good as day one. So do the mosfet and NB blocks. No discoloration on the copper from what I can see. The blocks were cleaned by hand before use with lemon then thoroughly rinsed. The copper still looks great to my eyes. Loop has only been running for little over 4 months.
> 
> I think the problem is these Alphacool rads and maybe the combination of Durelene and Pastel? Looking down into one of the rad's holes it definitely looks discolored in there. Maybe I should just take the 3 rads out and fill them with vinegar and water mix and shake them around? Then bicarb and water? Rinse multiple times after.


I would do the WHOLE thing, leaves nothing to second guess afterwards.


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You know... my blocks look fine. Well I can't see in the GPU block but looking into clear Plexi Supremacy the copper looks good as day one. So do the mosfet and NB blocks. No discoloration on the copper from what I can see. The blocks were cleaned by hand before use with lemon then thoroughly rinsed. The copper still looks great to my eyes. Loop has only been running for little over 4 months.
> 
> I think the problem is these Alphacool rads and maybe the combination of Durelene and Pastel? Looking down into one of the rad's holes it definitely looks discolored in there. Maybe I should just take the 3 rads out and fill them with vinegar and water mix and shake them around? Then bicarb and water? Rinse multiple times after.


Why bother with bicarb?
Hot water with a bit of vinegar should be enough to get anything out.


----------



## M3TAl

To neutralize the acid, still planning on using Pastel again when I have a chance to pick some up again in a few months.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I'll take everything apart and do a thorough cleaning. Not looking forward to this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Running just a kill coil and distilled after it's all cleaned will be fine right? Don't have anything else and really can't spend anymore on PC things right now.


After I drained my discolored Pastels coolant, I flushed the loop out with distilled 3x and now run plain distilled with a Monsoon Silver Bullet and everything is running great. Temps seem to have improved a little, too. You should have no issues cleaning what you have out and running distilled and your kill coil









I'd be interested in knowing if you find anything else unusual when tearing down and cleaning your loop. Good Luck!


----------



## Mayhem

Sorry to say it but the Alphacool NexXxos is your issue and our fix was to create "Blitz ...."

We got fed up of people blaming us when its not our fault its the rads. If you really wish to clean your rads out properly then "Blitz it" ...

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/cleaning.html

This is our official response to that issue and to any one with them rads .....



The Kits are nearly complete and will be shipping soon. Were sitting here right now calibrating all the pH meters.


----------



## 15goudreau

Mick that link 404s


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sorry to say it but the Alphacool NexXxos is your issue and our fix was to create "Blitz ...."
> 
> We got fed up of people blaming us when its not our fault its the rads. If you really wish to clean your rads out properly then "Blitz it" ...
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/mayhems-blitz-pro.htm
> 
> This is our official response to that issue and to any one with them rads .....
> 
> 
> 
> The Kits are nearly complete and will be shipping soon. Were sitting here right now calibrating all the pH meters.


I want (need) one since I had the issue with a setup with Alphacool NexXos in it. Since i'm re-doing the setup I want to make sure that I won't have the same issue.









When can we hope to have it in North America?


----------



## Mayhem

Hit up the shop, goto cleaning and you can find it all there. PPC has pre ordered 100 sets so they will ship to PPC as soon as there ready. Our initial run was 200 we only have 15 left for sales ourselves out of the first batch. :/


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Mick that link 404s


http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/mayhems-blitz-pro.html

It was missing an "L"


----------



## giltyler

I just bought a ALPHACOOL ST30 240 radiator after reading glowing reviews and want to know why it caused issues with MAYHEMS


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hit up the shop, goto cleaning and you can find it all there. PPC has pre ordered 100 sets so they will ship to PPC as soon as there ready. Our initial run was 200 we only have 15 left for sales ourselves out of the first batch. :/


Are they gonna have basic or pro kit at PPC?


----------



## Mayhem

@giltyler It causes issues with all coolants and liquids if they are not cleaned correctly.

@akira749 Im working on the pro kits atm, the basic kits won't be out for a few more weeks as i need to fulfill the pro kit requests first.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @akira749 Im working on the pro kits atm, the basic kits won't be out for a few more weeks as i need to fulfill the pro kit requests first.


I'm looking at the pro kit so it's all good for me


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sorry to say it but the Alphacool NexXxos is your issue and our fix was to create "Blitz ...."
> 
> We got fed up of people blaming us when its not our fault its the rads. If you really wish to clean your rads out properly then "Blitz it" ...
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/cleaning.html
> 
> This is our official response to that issue and to any one with them rads .....
> 
> 
> 
> The Kits are nearly complete and will be shipping soon. Were sitting here right now calibrating all the pH meters.


I'll be checking PPCs for it and will be one of the first purchasers







. Bout to start up a rebuild but have all new rads that will need a nice cleansing.

How big of a system did you say that this should cover again?


----------



## 15goudreau

I think he said the pro version does up to 3 liters??


----------



## DarthBaggins

The safety goggles ad a nice Touch lol


----------



## giltyler

I would think we should be told what the issue is with the Alphacool product in more detail when used with Mayhem products.
Just stating NEXXXOS is your problem dose not tell the whole story.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> I would think we should be told what the issue is with the Alphacool product in more detail when used with Mayhem products.
> Just stating NEXXXOS is your problem dose not tell the whole story.


I believe in this thread in the past it was stated that it's the lack of post production cleaning of the rads and the subsequent quantities of flux etc leftover from that.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sorry to say it but the Alphacool NexXxos is your issue and our fix was to create "Blitz ...."
> 
> We got fed up of people blaming us when its not our fault its the rads. If you really wish to clean your rads out properly then "Blitz it" ...
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/cleaning.html
> 
> This is our official response to that issue and to any one with them rads .....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kits are nearly complete and will be shipping soon. Were sitting here right now calibrating all the pH meters.


I kind of knew in the back of my mind these Alphacool rads were somehow to blame. Considering I need to get my system "clean" right now and not later; will cleaning with vinegar, then bicarb, then rinse with distilled be sufficient?

In the future I'll definitely be looking at the Blitz for cleaning. Even if I had known the Alphacool rads had these problems I'd still buy them again. Had a very tight budget to work with and the price/performance of these things (when it doesn't mess your loop up







) is just









Edit: Here's the results from XT45 #1. Took it out of the loop and filled it with distilled twice and shook it around both times to try and flush any left over pastel in there. Then filled it with vinegar and let it sit for about 2.5 hours and shook it around a few times during that.

Here's how the vinegar looks coming out







Was 2.5 hours long enough? Still need to rinse it out some, then rinse with bicarb, then rinse some more.


----------



## giltyler

I thought I had flushed my ST30 with nearly boiling water twice shaking it really well each time and I am starting to see it was not good enough.
My new reservoir has a slight residue where the level has come down as the air pockets in the loop purge.

In all the reviews I read on the NEXXOS radiators I did not see anything about residue and gunk


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> In all the reviews I read on the NEXXOS radiators I did not see anything about residue and gunk


The only way I knew was from here on OCN. I hadn't seen anything in reviews but I had read it various times in various threads here. This site has been priceless for me.
Er..well, come to think of it, this place has cost me a fortune!!!


----------



## Mayhem

@giltyler thats because reviewers don't look at long term issues and don't have time to sit on a product. We how ever will do what it takes to make sure we find out what the issues are, how to fix them and let people know the truth even if they don't like hearing it







. If it is our fault we will do our best to either fix it or how to get around it or we will let you know any incompatibility issues. We are not here just to make money we are here to support it and help anyone and every one who needs our help no matter what it takes.....


----------



## Doc3379

+Rep
Every company should strive be as awesome as this. Bravo sir.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> I thought I had flushed my ST30 with nearly boiling water twice shaking it really well each time and I am starting to see it was not good enough.
> My new reservoir has a slight residue where the level has come down as the air pockets in the loop purge.
> 
> In all the reviews I read on the NEXXOS radiators I did not see anything about residue and gunk


Yeah, performance wise they are great...which is usually all the reviewers are looking for anyway. The only thing I really like about them at all is the 6 inlet/outlet ports versus just the 2 most rads have. Other than that, I think they felt cheap compared to the Hardware Labs rads. Next build I am going to all HWLabs SR1s








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The only way I knew was from here on OCN. I hadn't seen anything in reviews but I had read it various times in various threads here. This site has been priceless for me.
> Er..well, come to think of it, this place has cost me a fortune!!!


I know right??
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @giltyler thats because reviewers don't look at long term issues and don't have time to sit on a product. We how ever will do what it takes to make sure we find out what the issues are, how to fix them and let people know the truth even if they don't like hearing it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If it is our fault we will do our best to either fix it or how to get around it or we will let you know any incompatibility issues. We are not here just to make money we are here to support it and help anyone and every one who needs our help no matter what it takes.....












Incidentally, I remember awhile back when people first started posting all of the stuff about pastel changing colors when using with those rads and all the flack you guys caught. Fluids always get blamed for problems it seems (the plasticizer fiasco comes to mind as well). Probably because as you said, the reviewers do not use them long enough before a review before doing the review and do not experience any residual effects. And most reviewers are unlikely to go and ammend their reviews if they did keep them around.


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @giltyler thats because reviewers don't look at long term issues and don't have time to sit on a product. We how ever will do what it takes to make sure we find out what the issues are, how to fix them and let people know the truth even if they don't like hearing it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If it is our fault we will do our best to either fix it or how to get around it or we will let you know any incompatibility issues. We are not here just to make money we are here to support it and help anyone and every one who needs our help no matter what it takes.....


I know you support your products very well and that is why you have received a +rep from me with a glowing nice comment on your support recently.
Trying to understand the root cause of fouling loops with the st NEXXOS rads is what I was after by commenting.
Lesson learned my flushing methods need to be improved


----------



## ngzb

The only way I knew was from here on OCN. I hadn't seen anything in reviews but I had read it various times in various threads here. This site has been priceless for me.
Er..well, come to think of it, this place has cost me a fortune!!![/quote]

+1


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> I know you support your products very well and that is why you have received a +rep from me with a glowing nice comment on your support recently.
> *Trying to understand the root cause of fouling loops with the st NEXXOS rads is what I was after by commenting.*
> Lesson learned my flushing methods need to be improved


Residue left over from it being soldered together. Flux and all that crap from the solder isn't washed out of the radiators, coolant picks it up and it messes up the coolant. It's hard to test that kind of thing in reviews because, lets be honest here, how are you going to test surface flux without either hacking the radiator in two or running coolant through it into a filter for 6 months.


----------



## Doc3379

I recently setup my new loop and in my excitement I didn't take the time to flush my new UT45-360 and UT60-280 and this is what happened.


So yeah, there is all kinds of crap that can get left behind inside the rads. That happened in less than a week.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> I recently setup my new loop and in my excitement I didn't take the time to flush my new UT45-360 and UT60-280 and this is what happened.
> 
> 
> So yeah, there is all kinds of crap that can get left behind inside the rads. That happened in less than a week.


Reminds me of the crap I use to polish my work boots before using mink oil.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> I recently setup my new loop and in my excitement I didn't take the time to flush my new UT45-360 and UT60-280 and this is what happened.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah, there is all kinds of crap that can get left behind inside the rads. That happened in less than a week.


Gross.......


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> I recently setup my new loop and in my excitement I didn't take the time to flush my new UT45-360 and UT60-280 and this is what happened.
> 
> 
> So yeah, there is all kinds of crap that can get left behind inside the rads. That happened in less than a week.


Bet you'll flush your components more thoroughly now.


----------



## Doc3379

lol, indeed. Patients is a virtue. I've got some pastel red that is patiently waiting to be used. I've flushed my system 3 times now with distilled water from 3 different places and I still can't get my Ph higher than 6.5ish. I'm planning on getting some of that Blitz cleaner when it comes out. I was thinking about it earlier though, if you are only supposed to use part 1 on the rads, then how would you set it up to cycle? Would you mix up part 1 in a bucket and use a submersible pump? Would you just add the mix to your entire loop?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> lol, indeed. Patients is a virtue.


that

My fav Quote.

Some news on top of the release of Blitz . We are working on a "Non Toxic" highly effective cleaner that is PH balanced. It still is in the early stages of testing but should be intresting to see how its goes. We may offer up some samples later on down the line.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> lol, indeed. Patients is a virtue. I've got some pastel red that is patiently waiting to be used. I've flushed my system 3 times now with distilled water from 3 different places and I still can't get my Ph higher than 6.5ish. I'm planning on getting some of that Blitz cleaner when it comes out. I was thinking about it earlier though, if you are only supposed to use part 1 on the rads, then how would you set it up to cycle? Would you mix up part 1 in a bucket and use a submersible pump? Would you just add the mix to your entire loop?


idk how I'd like to have a big bucket of chemicals out in the open. I'd be more likely to setup a small loop with just the rads, run part 1, drain, assemble full loop and move to part 2


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> lol, indeed. Patients is a virtue. I've got some pastel red that is patiently waiting to be used. I've flushed my system 3 times now with distilled water from 3 different places and I still can't get my Ph higher than 6.5ish. I'm planning on getting some of that Blitz cleaner when it comes out. I was thinking about it earlier though, if you are only supposed to use part 1 on the rads, then how would you set it up to cycle? Would you mix up part 1 in a bucket and use a submersible pump? Would you just add the mix to your entire loop?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> idk how I'd like to have a big bucket of chemicals out in the open. I'd be more likely to setup a small loop with just the rads, run part 1, drain, assemble full loop and move to part 2


I thought part 1 was supposed to be poured into each rad and left there for a small time, I didn't think it was supposed to be "run" through the loop, IDK maybe @Mayhem could clarify this for us to some degree?


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> This is an amazing product and something that might help my system. However when it comes to retailers. If they do not already have someone on their staff that have passed the certification test for shipping hazardous materials they may not want to take on the cost of getting it done. I do not know what my previous employer paid to get me and 1 other co-worker certified but I know they didn't want to pay for it. And if you don't already know shipping hazardous materials in the US the MSDS sheets are required to be on the outside of the package.
> 
> AND on another note. I am back to the same issue with my UV Lime Yellow Coolant. Maybe its residual plasicizers in my loop that I didn't clean out properly, but I cannot be sure. I drained the loop and filtered the coolant through coffee filters multiple times. It looks the same as the day it went into my system when I got my replacement bottles. So I am sure the coolant itself is not contaminated and causing any discolorations. But something chalky is building up on my tubing. Last weekend I drained and cleaned everything out. I flushed the entire system with a vinegar solution, then with a bicarb solution. Which was fun to watch at first cause I didn't drain 1 of my blocks completely(remember those volcano science projects?). Then I ran plain distilled for 2 hours then drained and repeated 4 times. Then I refilled the system with the pastel.
> 
> Here are a few pics of the acrylic tubing with the buildup. It has a SLIGHTLY green tint to it but as the coolant is yellow/green that is expected. And as stated before it is chalky, which I noticed maybe cyphon said the pastel can leave in your system. And then a pic of the res as it sits right now. The buildup is already starting again. One thing I noticed before I drained it was that if I would leave the fill port on the top of the res open that the buildup effectively stopped. For weeks I noticed it get worse and worse, then I ran it with the fitting on the top open enough to let pressure out and the buildup at least in the res visibly stopped. I run a Swiftech MCP-35X at around 2700 RPM and rarely does it go above or below that speed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm the guy you gave this as a sample to before it was released. And due to the post below I haven't had the cash to send you samples of my old tubing. I will be sending you a sample of both my acrylic and the primochill advanced LRT that I was supposed to send you a while back. I still have the address in my PMs and should get it out on Monday.


Any update on what that residue was?


----------



## Mayhem

it would be better run through a loop external but most people would be happy just letting it sit in situ, having it run through an external loop would remove more crud. part 2 though contains more surfactants and has a better ability at pick up rubbish.







. The reason for the way we have done the instructions is to keep it simple and not to confuse people







. 90% of users who buy this will not fully understand how it works. hence keep it simple.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> it would be better run through a loop external but most people would be happy just letting it sit in situ, having it run through an external loop would remove more crud. part 2 though contains more surfactants and has a better ability at pick up rubbish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The reason for the way we have done the instructions is to keep it simple and not to confuse people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . 90% of users who buy this will not fully understand how it works. hence keep it simple.


Sooooooo what you are saying is...you can let it set in, but if you are comfortable running it as an external loop, then go for it and it could be better result


----------



## Mayhem

yes. Off the record as such since this is a public forum. We actually ran Part 1 it in a full loop for 1 hour and 30 min with no issues how ever after 2 hours 30 min under test it started eating away at cheap plated products. Good plated products were fine for 24 hours just cheap ones well thats why we written the instructions as such. I think we've balanced the instructions so that you get the best of both worlds with hardly any risk.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> yes. Off the record as such since this is a public forum. We actually ran Part 1 it in a full loop for 1 hour and 30 min with no issues how ever after 2 hours 30 min under test it started eating away at cheap plated products. Good plated products were fine for 24 hours just cheap ones well thats why we written the instructions as such. It think we've balanced the instructions so that you get the best of both world with hardly any risk.


Lol, yeah, I will stick to rads on pt 1 as you suggest then









Just waiting for it to show up on the PPCs...as mentioned a few posts back....patience is a virtue


----------



## Mayhem

im still waiting for some parts to show up (500 small measuring cups and 500 goggles). They were supposed to arrive to day and they didn't







.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> This is an amazing product and something that might help my system. However when it comes to retailers. If they do not already have someone on their staff that have passed the certification test for shipping hazardous materials they may not want to take on the cost of getting it done. I do not know what my previous employer paid to get me and 1 other co-worker certified but I know they didn't want to pay for it. And if you don't already know shipping hazardous materials in the US the MSDS sheets are required to be on the outside of the package.
> 
> AND on another note. I am back to the same issue with my UV Lime Yellow Coolant. Maybe its residual plasicizers in my loop that I didn't clean out properly, but I cannot be sure. I drained the loop and filtered the coolant through coffee filters multiple times. It looks the same as the day it went into my system when I got my replacement bottles. So I am sure the coolant itself is not contaminated and causing any discolorations. But something chalky is building up on my tubing. Last weekend I drained and cleaned everything out. I flushed the entire system with a vinegar solution, then with a bicarb solution. Which was fun to watch at first cause I didn't drain 1 of my blocks completely(remember those volcano science projects?). Then I ran plain distilled for 2 hours then drained and repeated 4 times. Then I refilled the system with the pastel.
> 
> Here are a few pics of the acrylic tubing with the buildup. It has a SLIGHTLY green tint to it but as the coolant is yellow/green that is expected. And as stated before it is chalky, which I noticed maybe cyphon said the pastel can leave in your system. And then a pic of the res as it sits right now. The buildup is already starting again. One thing I noticed before I drained it was that if I would leave the fill port on the top of the res open that the buildup effectively stopped. For weeks I noticed it get worse and worse, then I ran it with the fitting on the top open enough to let pressure out and the buildup at least in the res visibly stopped. I run a Swiftech MCP-35X at around 2700 RPM and rarely does it go above or below that speed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm the guy you gave this as a sample to before it was released. And due to the post below I haven't had the cash to send you samples of my old tubing. I will be sending you a sample of both my acrylic and the primochill advanced LRT that I was supposed to send you a while back. I still have the address in my PMs and should get it out on Monday.
> 
> 
> 
> Any update on what that residue was?
Click to expand...

No update yet. I will be sending the box with my old tubing to Mick next week. Not sure on shipping costs so waiting for payday so I can be sure I got enough in my account. From everything I can tell it seems to be either plasticizer OR I am baking the nano particles with where my UV lights are or how many UV lights I have. I might make a video showing a few of the spots it is the worst at. Somewhat funny thing about the entire issue is that out of all the tubing in my loop there are 2 pieces which were never effected.



These 2 peices have 0 buildup at all. I don't understand it and not sure I will ever be able to. Only thing I can think is the CPU and motherboard water blocks have collected anything that would of ended up on those 2 tubes. I am almost certain it is not any sort of mold buildup since it is chalky. Mold/algae would have more of a slimy feel to it where this stuff is chalky. As soon as I get the tubing to mayhem I will post in here what his conclusion is.


----------



## Doc3379

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Lol, yeah, I will stick to rads on pt 1 as you suggest then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just waiting for it to show up on the PPCs...as mentioned a few posts back....patience is a virtue


You and me both man. I 'll be checking "new products" on PPC daily.

Also, thanks for clearing up all that about Blitz.


----------



## akira749

Ok question for the color mixers gurus









I'm trying to achieve this color



I was thinking the obvious like White Pastel Base + Red or Deep Red dye.

Is it ok or will I have to add some blue or else?

Thanks


----------



## 15goudreau

You might want to get some blue to get it a tad bit more purply. As that is what that colour looks like to me. Careful though, the blue also darkens the colour of the red up quite a bit I'm told from other users. So maybe you get the ocean blue instead of the deep/dark blue (whatever it's called).


----------



## e64462

Hi, I have a brand new loop, all 100% new parts... with an Alphacool Repack Dual Bay Res. I filled my loop, leak tested, and ran pure distilled water for about a day and a half with no discernible problems. At this point I drained some of the coolant to make room, and added about 200 mL of Mayhem's X1 clear concentrate. A couple hours after I added the X1, I started noticing some clouding. Is this expected, is it something I need to be concerned about?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Ok question for the color mixers gurus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to achieve this color
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking the obvious like White Pastel Base + Red or Deep Red dye.
> 
> Is it ok or will I have to add some blue or else?
> 
> Thanks


You definitely will need red and blue when starting with white to get to that. You will definitely have to be careful to not darken it too much.

It is possible you could get pastel purple for a pretty close match and I think you'd put a little bit extra red in there...however, you may overdarken that way too


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *e64462*
> 
> Hi, I have a brand new loop, all 100% new parts... with an Alphacool Repack Dual Bay Res. I filled my loop, leak tested, and ran pure distilled water for about a day and a half with no discernible problems. At this point I drained some of the coolant to make room, and added about 200 mL of Mayhem's X1 clear concentrate. A couple hours after I added the X1, I started noticing some clouding. Is this expected, is it something I need to be concerned about?


You need to clean out your radiators with more than just distilled. Especially radiators. You need to rinse them generally with something acidic like vinegar and then neutralize it with something basic like baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate). Most likely you will have to get some new X1. Also make sure you are using Primochill Advanced LRT tubes, else you will get plasticizer buildup in your blocks. (if you are using flex tubing).


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *e64462*
> 
> Hi, I have a brand new loop, all 100% new parts... with an Alphacool Repack Dual Bay Res. I filled my loop, leak tested, and ran pure distilled water for about a day and a half with no discernible problems. At this point I drained some of the coolant to make room, and added about 200 mL of Mayhem's X1 clear concentrate. A couple hours after I added the X1, I started noticing some clouding. Is this expected, is it something I need to be concerned about?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> You need to clean out your radiators with more than just distilled. Especially radiators. You need to rinse them generally with something acidic like vinegar and then neutralize it with something basic like baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate). Most likely you will have to get some new X1. Also make sure you are using Primochill Advanced LRT tubes, else you will get plasticizer buildup in your blocks. (if you are using flex tubing).


Also, FOLLOW the mixing instructions on the coolant your using. DRAIN the loop, and fill it with properly mixed coolant, unless you know the exact amount of fluid in your system, and drained exactly enough to pour in the concentrate, the way you did it isn't recommended.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Also, FOLLOW the mixing instructions on the coolant your using. DRAIN the loop, and fill it with properly mixed coolant, unless you know the exact amount of fluid in your system, and drained exactly enough to pour in the concentrate, the way you did it isn't recommended.


This. The mix ratio is pretty important and just eyeballing is too imprecise to tell if you did it correctly.

Sooooo, always mix out of your loop. Even if you somehow did get the ratio just right in your loop, you are keeping all of the contaminants that were in the loop already. Radiators especially have a lot of crap that will cause weird results.

At this point, you should drain everything, do a complete flush of the system, mix your X1 solution, then fill your loop. After draining, inspect everything for any residue and clean or replace as needed.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROGX*
> 
> Hey Mayhem, im going to watercool, and i really want to use your Pastel red, but in some pics, it looks Kinda pink.. but i cant decide if i should do Pastel red + Clear tubing OR Clear Coolant/H20 + Red tubing. Which do you think will look better? and sorry (im completly knew to the watercooling world) but which tubing size should i get? im pretty confused about it , im looking for something not to big, or to small. Thanks for the help!


Been away a while so sorry for the old response .... yes....it is a bit pink..... My sons kept asking me if I was cooling my box with "strawberry slushies" from 7-elevem









I'd strongly suggest waiting till the rad cleaner kit is available..... I thoroughly cleaned and pre-treated my rads going quite a bit beyond the "accepted procedures"..... put red pastel in at end of October and added 2 bottles of red dye a month later to get closer to "RoG / Mushkin" Red .... noticed no change in coloring for about 4 months. At that point I did some stress testing with AVX at low fan speeds which took my temps up from the normal 74C to about 84C. Dunno if that triggered anything (Coolant temps were in mid 30s) but my coolant color changed almost overnight.....at first I thot it was my old eyes but son came home a week later and confirmed.

Again, I pretreated my rads with both acidic and base solutions, flushed them with tap water for hours, final flushes w/ DW, ran a week on DW before putting in pastel mix. Four months of no chage and then within a week .... :





I'm letting it sit until FCPU has the new rad prep kits.... until then I will wrestle with the decision of whether to refill with pastel or the new aurora.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Last weekend I drained and cleaned everything out. I flushed the entire system with a vinegar solution, then with a bicarb solution. Which was fun to watch at first cause I didn't drain 1 of my blocks completely(remember those volcano science projects?). Then I ran plain distilled for 2 hours then drained and repeated 4 times. Then I refilled the system with the pastel.


Oops ..... Best to do a tap water flush in between the acidic and base soakings to skip the science project







..... I did hot water baths, hi flow alternating hot and cold (HFAHC) tap water flushes, acidic bath, HFAHC tap water flushes, base bath, HFAHC tap water flushes, 2 DW flushes, a week on DW before coolant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROGX*
> 
> Can anyone help me out?
> Well im planning on using the Aluminum Crosschill blocks on my Maximus VI formula, with a nickel Cpu block, and a COPPER Rad. the question i have is iv heard some pretty bad stuff about using Aluminum with copper, and if i use pastel red , would i be safe from corrosion? Thanks.


Been using anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments for over 25 years where it holds up better than stainless steel in many instances. As a owner of the M6F MoBo, I have absolutely no corrosion concerns about the water block..... the solder used in the rads is of much greater concern to me than the anodized block.

As for heat transfer....aluminum is about half as good as copper and twice as good as nickel

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html

Copper 401
Aluminum 205
Nickel 91

However the anodizing layer has about 1/10th the heat transfer capability as the bare metal. But the fact of the matter is it is entirely insignificant .... the block has to transfer about 20 watts and given the large surface area, that's waaaay more than enuff to handle the load. I have yet to see any MoBo / VRM temps above 41C.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Hey guys just wondering is it safe to run my new fresh loop with DI water onky for a few hours with no other additives then add a pastel color to the res? Or should I flush my loop as best as possible then mix the color in a DI water bottle then add it?


I ran a week on DI .... was glad i did and also glad had a plexi top on the CPU Block..... found several paint flakes which had dislodged themselves from fitting or rad threads that wound up jammed up in the CPU Block.....a reverse flush took care of them. I reflushed twice with new DW and then added the Pastel.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Will it matter if i don't flush all the liquid from rads, like if there is still some left will it matter?
> 
> I got 3 rads in my 900D and im sure if i were to flush it some liquid will still be left somewhere inside


The purpose of the final flush in my eyes is to get out any contaminants out that may haveleached out with the aid of a working system at elevated temperatures. So yes, I would make every effort to get it all out..... that doesn't necessarily mean dry.... you can get it out by displacement. After a the normal acid / base flush, numerous flushes and a week on DI, I flushed with tap water for a good 15 minutes ...then about 6 liters of DW was flushed thru, saving the last 2 liters for the pastel mix.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Anyone know of any issues with acrylic tubing?


What kind of issues.... it's worry free once installed provided you do it right ..... two ways to go..... straight tubes at right angles with fittings or bent acrylic..... fittings is a greater cost investment, bent is a bigger time investment. See the acrylic tube thread for lots of tips and pics of both.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Do I need to nuke the whole system with vinegar mix and then the bicarb? AH just so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> right now!


Again, I'd wait for the rad flush / prep kit (Blitz) from Mayhems .... the acid / base baths and subsequent flushing proved inadequate in my case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I kind of knew in the back of my mind these Alphacool rads were somehow to blame. Considering I need to get my system "clean" right now and not later; will cleaning with vinegar, then bicarb, then rinse with distilled be sufficient?


Given my experience as evidenced by the pics above, I'd say no.....still stumped by the no reaction for 4 months and then bam, literally over a day or 2 was all changed.


----------



## 15goudreau

I keep forgetting about that new aurora.... argh so many choices. What exactly are the issue blocks with aurora? anything that isn't a straight channel block?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I keep forgetting about that new aurora.... argh so many choices. What exactly are the issue blocks with aurora? anything that isn't a straight channel block?


Even some straight channel blocks can have issues because of the injection plate. Your best bet is the ek supremacy with a J3 injection plate or no injection plate


----------



## 15goudreau

I was thinking of picking up the supremacy eventually because I'm just using the XSPC RASA waterblock atm.... want that clear acrylic... That's good to know Hopefully it plans nice with my EK gpu blocks. +1


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I was thinking of picking up the supremacy eventually because I'm just using the XSPC RASA waterblock atm.... want that clear acrylic... That's good to know Hopefully it plans nice with my EK gpu blocks. +1


As far as I'm aware Aurora doesn't have issues with GPU blocks, there's not really any part of the block the particles can settle in, just be sure you have sufficient pump power to keep flowrates up there, and try to stick with single row radiators.


----------



## Mayhem

Every thing has arrived now for the Pro Blitz Kits. Its bank holiday now but ill be working through it to make sure we get them out for next week. e.g sitting here packing gloves into bags and hand testing 200 pH test meters. All pre orders will go out tuesday from us. Once ive caught up with my work ill start working on the basic Blitz kits.


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Every thing has arrived now for the Pro Blitz Kits. Its bank holiday now but ill be working through it to make sure we get them out for next week. e.g sitting here packing gloves into bags and hand testing 200 pH test meters. All pre orders will go out tuesday from us. Once ive caught up with my work ill start working on the basic Blitz kits.


Great news! Can't wait to get my pastel white with a blue tint back to "white" with my nexxos rads!


----------



## M3TAl

Finally cleaned every thing and got loop running with distilled, kill coil and new LRT. Blocks were fine.

Apparently I killed the motherboard somehow. I give up.


----------



## Mayhem

Dam. have you just over tightened your blocks as thats quite common when people use water blocks.


----------



## M3TAl

My only guess is I cracked the Northbirdge die when adding new tubing. There's 4 90 degree fittings and it's very tight squeeze with very short tubing runs. It's not easy getting the tubing on there. Maybe I broke the die, who knows. Haven't checked, too fed up to deal with it right now.

Had some leaks while draining too, on the GPU, 2 HDD's, and some fans. They've been drying for 3 days now. The HDD's still spin up so they seem fine. All the fans work. No video from system but I've tried multiple GPU's and everything else under the sun. Think board is dead. No LEDs from Ethernet port and no lights from my keyboard either (it's old school PS2 and the numluck would also light up on boot).

Maybe the board got wet too and i didn't realize but then again it's been sitting for 3 days. Haven't heard a single sizzle/pop and no burning plastic smell either. Can't see any burn marks. My bet is on ruined NB die.


----------



## Mayhem

sorry to hear this :/ wish we could help but we don't make hardware :/ "maybe one day haha"


----------



## Blackops_2

For tubing XSPC clear highflex or Primochill LRT Advanced clear?


----------



## Mayhem

Primochill LRT Advanced clear no ifs or buts.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Primochill LRT Advanced clear no ifs or buts.


Gotcha


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Every thing has arrived now for the Pro Blitz Kits. Its bank holiday now but ill be working through it to make sure we get them out for next week. e.g sitting here packing gloves into bags and hand testing 200 pH test meters. All pre orders will go out tuesday from us. Once ive caught up with my work ill start working on the basic Blitz kits.


ETA on stock hitting USA retailers please.

NEXXOS sludge to clean up here.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> ETA on stock hitting USA retailers please.
> 
> NEXXOS sludge to clean up here.


Lemon juice and hot water, 1:4

then

Sodium bicarbonate, 1Tbs baking soda to one liter of water

Should get it cleaned out and set up. I wouldn't put your entire rig on hold till they hit the resellers, though that's just my opinion.

Be sure not to skip the bicarb


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> You might want to get some blue to get it a tad bit more purply. As that is what that colour looks like to me. Careful though, the blue also darkens the colour of the red up quite a bit I'm told from other users. So maybe you get the ocean blue instead of the deep/dark blue (whatever it's called).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Ok question for the color mixers gurus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to achieve this color
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking the obvious like White Pastel Base + Red or Deep Red dye.
> 
> Is it ok or will I have to add some blue or else?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You definitely will need red and blue when starting with white to get to that. You will definitely have to be careful to not darken it too much.
> 
> It is possible you could get pastel purple for a pretty close match and I think you'd put a little bit extra red in there...however, you may overdarken that way too
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Thanks guys!

@cyphon Is the standard blue ok or should I heads up to ocean blue like 15goudreau mentioned?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'd think the pastel purple with a touch of red should achieve that color easily, but you never know.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> @cyphon Is the standard blue ok or should I heads up to ocean blue like 15goudreau mentioned?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I'd think the pastel purple with a touch of red should achieve that color easily, but you never know.


Yeah, I just did an experiment for you









While not pastel, I think I got pretty close.

I used 2-3 drop purple dye and 2 drops of deep red. (loop was just the res, the GPU block, and the tube)





I then added a little blue (1-2 drop) and it made it way too dark, so I'd avoid any blue (looks darker than in the pic)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Actually that almost looks spot on.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah, I just did an experiment for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While not pastel, I think I got pretty close.
> 
> I used 2-3 purple dye and 2 drops of deep red. (loop was just the res, the GPU block, and the tube)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Euhhhhhh YOU'RE AMAZING!!!

I happen to have purple and deep red dye in here...i'm trying it right away in distilled water and will post a picture besides the sleeve!

Thanks Cyphon!!!!!!!


----------



## cyphon

@Mayhem, Got the day off, so I finally am getting to play with the all the dyes. This is a lot of fun. Do you guys just sit around the office and see what colors you can get? I think that is what I would do all day, lol. Thanks again









Took that purple I did with for the other guy, added some yellow, a little more red and a little more blue and got root beer....thirsty all of a sudden.....


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Euhhhhhh YOU'RE AMAZING!!!
> 
> I happen to have purple and deep red dye in here...i'm trying it right away in distilled water and will post a picture besides the sleeve!
> 
> Thanks Cyphon!!!!!!!


No problem, hope you get similar results


----------



## akira749

Here's my attempt!



5 drops of deep red and 4 drops of purple


----------



## Jameswalt1

Love that color Akira!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Love that color Akira!


I really start to dig it too!!!

I had pastel in mind but I might go with X1 Clear and that recipe!!!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I really start to dig it too!!!
> 
> I had pastel in mind but I might go with X1 Clear and that recipe!!!


The x1 no question


----------



## giltyler

With the Lemmon juice mix should this mix be done only once before the bicarbonate rinse?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> The x1 no question


----------



## 15goudreau

try them both. I just love pastel because it's an even colour throughout your tubes. That is going to look a lot lighter in your tubes than your res. The only downside of x1 I think


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Here's my attempt!
> 
> 
> 
> 5 drops of deep red and 4 drops of purple


Good work









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I really start to dig it too!!!
> 
> I had pastel in mind but I might go with X1 Clear and that recipe!!!


Both would look good. With reds/purples I like x1 better. Yellows/Blues I like Pastel. All other colors are kind of toss ups to me, lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> try them both. I just love pastel because it's an even colour throughout your tubes. That is going to look a lot lighter in your tubes than your res. The only downside of x1 I think


True, though if you get your lighting right, it will be pretty close


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> @Mayhem, Got the day off, so I finally am getting to play with the all the dyes. This is a lot of fun. Do you guys just sit around the office and see what colors you can get? I think that is what I would do all day, lol. Thanks again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took that purple I did with for the other guy, added some yellow, a little more red and a little more blue and got root beer....thirsty all of a sudden.....


No i spend all day making every ones products even on my hols.While i sleep i try and invent new products haha. Any way the our *Blitz Basic kits are now live and in stock* but there is only 25 of them :/. As for ETA to USA its bank Holiday over here and i cannot say when they will be ordering them or what the ETA is as i don't deal with any shipping. Try email PPC and ask for a ETA hehe


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No i spend all day making every ones products even on my hols.While i sleep i try and invent new products haha. Any way the our *Blitz Basic kits are now live and in stock* but there is only 25 of them :/. As for ETA to USA its bank Holiday over here and i cannot say when they will be ordering them or what the ETA is as i don't deal with any shipping. Try email PPC and ask for a ETA hehe


Haha, I'd totally get distracted by the dyes still.

Good to hear the basics are out, however I'm still going to grab the pro for myself when PPCs lists them.

I will try to see if they will give me some insight on when this will and will post back for everyone if I find anything out.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I was thinking of picking up the supremacy eventually because I'm just using the XSPC RASA waterblock atm.... want that clear acrylic... That's good to know Hopefully it plans nice with my EK gpu blocks. +1


I used this one and it's what allowed me to catch the paint flakes that came off the screw threads somewhere.

EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Clean Plexi (EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ) - No Circles [3830046990808]
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19628/ex-blc-1442/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clean_Plexi_EK-Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html?tl=g57c603s1912



giltyler:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Lemon juice and hot water, 1:4
> 
> then
> 
> Sodium bicarbonate, 1Tbs baking soda to one liter of water
> 
> Should get it cleaned out and set up*. I wouldn't put your entire rig on hold till they hit the resellers*, though that's just my opinion.
> 
> Be sure not to skip the bicarb


I'll echo Zy here .....see pics in post 5966 ....did the vinegar / water .... bicarb thing ....flushed flushed flushed ... ran a week with distilled , measured pH w/ $2500 meter and got a 7.03 at end of week. Drained and installed pastel....will be taking down and re-doing before summer.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

oops


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quick question, if I use mayhems pastel, will I have any corrosion problems with my ek nickel plexi block and silver plated monsoon fittings?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Quick question, if I use mayhems pastel, will I have any corrosion problems with my ek nickel plexi block and silver plated monsoon fittings?


It has corrosion inhibitors in the fluid itself. So you should be fine. Although it is my personal rule of thumb that the less different metals you can put in the loop, the better. And silver wouldn't do much because pastel also has Biocides in it too.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I wasn't planning on having silver in my loop, I just found out that Monsoon started plating the inside of their compression fittings.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Real Silver ????



Silver is 0.15
Nickel is 0.30

So you have about 3 times the galvanic potential that exists between copper and Nickel

Still.... in order for galvanic corrosion to take place, you need an electrolyte. The coolant may be perfectly electrolyte-less on day 1 but metals will leach in over time and therefore you can't depend on distilled water being electrolyte fee over time. I don't think anyone will say with certainty that corrosion won't occur .... but I think you could say that:

a) With the inhibitors in the pastel, you are a helluva lot better off than you would be with distilled water.
b) The rate of corrosion that would occur would be so slow that it would not be of any significance during the normal service life of the computer.

As Martin says ..... _"But I don't think you will completely stop corrosion. The idea is to keep it at bay long enough and/or reduce it for the intended service life."_. From everything I have seen or read, the pastel from Mayhems does an excellent job keeping it at bay. read more here;

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Real Silver ????
> 
> 
> 
> Silver is 0.15
> Nickel is 0.30
> 
> So you have about 3 times the galvanic potential that exists between copper and Nickel
> 
> Still.... in order for galvanic corrosion to take place, you need an electrolyte. The coolant may be perfectly electrolyte-less on day 1 but metals will leach in over time and therefore you can't depend on distilled water being electrolyte fee over time. I don't think anyone will say with certainty that corrosion won't occur .... but I think you could say that:
> 
> a) With the inhibitors in the pastel, you are a helluva lot better off than you would be with distilled water.
> b) The rate of corrosion that would occur would be so slow that it would not be of any significance during the normal service life of the computer.
> 
> As Martin says ..... _"But I don't think you will completely stop corrosion. The idea is to keep it at bay long enough and/or reduce it for the intended service life."_. From everything I have seen or read, the pastel from Mayhems does an excellent job keeping it at bay. read more here;
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/


Honestly I don't know for sure, I've just read a couple people mentioning it. I'm prolly worrying for no reason.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> It has corrosion inhibitors in the fluid itself. So you should be fine. Although it is my personal rule of thumb that the less different metals you can put in the loop, the better. And silver wouldn't do much because pastel also has Biocides in it too.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> I wasn't planning on having silver in my loop, I just found out that Monsoon started plating the inside of their compression fittings.


Yeah I noticed that too, my solution was to switch to XT-1 when I put those new silver plated fittings in as I'm over cautious with my loop.


----------



## djnsmith7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Primochill LRT Advanced clear no ifs or buts.


^


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I used this one and it's what allowed me to catch the paint flakes that came off the screw threads somewhere.
> 
> EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Clean Plexi (EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ) - No Circles [3830046990808]
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19628/ex-blc-1442/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Clean_Plexi_EK-Supremacy_Clean_CSQ.html?tl=g57c603s1912
> 
> 
> 
> giltyler:
> I'll echo Zy here .....see pics in post 5966 ....did the vinegar / water .... bicarb thing ....flushed flushed flushed ... ran a week with distilled , measured pH w/ $2500 meter and got a 7.03 at end of week. Drained and installed pastel....will be taking down and re-doing before summer.


Thanks Zy and Jack
I will be using the solutions you recommended to clean the loop up.
First the lemon water then the vinegar water and final bicarb rinse.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> Thanks Zy and Jack
> I will be using the solutions you recommended to clean the loop up.
> First the lemon water then the vinegar water and final bicarb rinse.


Lemon water or vinegar water, not both. It would be redundant, they are a cleaning/descaling solution. Their purpose is mainly to get any flux or crap out of your loop, then the bicarb neutralizes everything so it doesn't mess up the pastel. I'd go with lemon water personally, vinegar is just 8% acetic acid, 90% water, and 2% fermentation biproducts. Acetic acid is REALLY potent stuff, it could melt your face off, literally.


----------



## TheGin

got some fluids in but for some reason the uv effect in my system doesnt last more than a day. i get all of my mayhem products from frozencpu. i found someone having a similar issue due to the brand that makes the uv light. i am using the phobya uv led strips they are pretty bright but they do give off a bright purple light. heres the list of components in my loop if it helps. EK Supremacy CPU Block, XSPC Pump/Reservoir, EK GPU Block, Black Ice 360mm and 240mm Radiators, PrimoChill Acrylic Tubing, PrimoChill Fittings, Mayhem X1 Coolants and dyes. heres pics for now with the side panel off the purple doesnt seem as powerful/strong when the side panel is on of course. im also considering going to just white light with plain mayhem dye and give up on the uv dye.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGin*
> 
> got some fluids in but for some reason the uv effect in my system doesnt last more than a day. i get all of my mayhem products from frozencpu. i found someone having a similar issue due to the brand that makes the uv light. i am using the phobya uv led strips they are pretty bright but they do give off a bright purple light. heres the list of components in my loop if it helps. EK Supremacy CPU Block, XSPC Pump/Reservoir, EK GPU Block, Black Ice 360mm and 240mm Radiators, PrimoChill Acrylic Tubing, PrimoChill Fittings, Mayhem X1 Coolants and dyes. heres pics for now with the side panel off the purple doesnt seem as powerful/strong when the side panel is on of course. im also considering going to just white light with plain mayhem dye and give up on the uv dye.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


UV Led Strips aren't the best to make UV Glow....UV CCFL will beat them anytime.

I have 3 UV CCFL and after 7 months now the glow on my X1 UV Emerald Green still kick!


----------



## TheGin

i wasnt sure which i should go for so i went with phobya uv leds. i did look into the CCFL and i wanted to run 3 but i didnt like how i had to run 2 of the inverter boxes. but honestly im not going to get more uv lighting unless im sure its the reason my uv effect dyes in 1 day. i do have more than 1 brand of uv lighting and the effect is lost to all of them. like i said the uv is strong and has a bright glow then it just diminishes.


----------



## suwit hrc thai

i love color yellow


----------



## ROGX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sorry to say it but the Alphacool NexXxos is your issue and our fix was to create "Blitz ...."
> 
> We got fed up of people blaming us when its not our fault its the rads. If you really wish to clean your rads out properly then "Blitz it" ...
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/cleaning.html
> 
> This is our official response to that issue and to any one with them rads .....
> 
> 
> 
> The Kits are nearly complete and will be shipping soon. Were sitting here right now calibrating all the pH meters.


Hi, so will i need to use this with a NexXxos ut60? or will rinsing with water do? as singularity computers has stated, but i want to be on the safe side, so im not sure what to do, any advice?


----------



## ROGX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Been away a while so sorry for the old response .... yes....it is a bit pink..... My sons kept asking me if I was cooling my box with "strawberry slushies" from 7-elevem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd strongly suggest waiting till the rad cleaner kit is available..... I thoroughly cleaned and pre-treated my rads going quite a bit beyond the "accepted procedures"..... put red pastel in at end of October and added 2 bottles of red dye a month later to get closer to "RoG / Mushkin" Red .... noticed no change in coloring for about 4 months. At that point I did some stress testing with AVX at low fan speeds which took my temps up from the normal 74C to about 84C. Dunno if that triggered anything (Coolant temps were in mid 30s) but my coolant color changed almost overnight.....at first I thot it was my old eyes but son came home a week later and confirmed.
> 
> Again, I pretreated my rads with both acidic and base solutions, flushed them with tap water for hours, final flushes w/ DW, ran a week on DW before putting in pastel mix. Four months of no chage and then within a week .... :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm letting it sit until FCPU has the new rad prep kits.... until then I will wrestle with the decision of whether to refill with pastel or the new aurora.
> Oops ..... Best to do a tap water flush in between the acidic and base soakings to skip the science project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... I did hot water baths, hi flow alternating hot and cold (HFAHC) tap water flushes, acidic bath, HFAHC tap water flushes, base bath, HFAHC tap water flushes, 2 DW flushes, a week on DW before coolant
> Been using anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments for over 25 years where it holds up better than stainless steel in many instances. As a owner of the M6F MoBo, I have absolutely no corrosion concerns about the water block..... the solder used in the rads is of much greater concern to me than the anodized block.
> 
> As for heat transfer....aluminum is about half as good as copper and twice as good as nickel
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html
> 
> Copper 401
> Aluminum 205
> Nickel 91
> 
> However the anodizing layer has about 1/10th the heat transfer capability as the bare metal. But the fact of the matter is it is entirely insignificant .... the block has to transfer about 20 watts and given the large surface area, that's waaaay more than enuff to handle the load. I have yet to see any MoBo / VRM temps above 41C.
> I ran a week on DI .... was glad i did and also glad had a plexi top on the CPU Block..... found several paint flakes which had dislodged themselves from fitting or rad threads that wound up jammed up in the CPU Block.....a reverse flush took care of them. I reflushed twice with new DW and then added the Pastel.
> The purpose of the final flush in my eyes is to get out any contaminants out that may haveleached out with the aid of a working system at elevated temperatures. So yes, I would make every effort to get it all out..... that doesn't necessarily mean dry.... you can get it out by displacement. After a the normal acid / base flush, numerous flushes and a week on DI, I flushed with tap water for a good 15 minutes ...then about 6 liters of DW was flushed thru, saving the last 2 liters for the pastel mix.
> What kind of issues.... it's worry free once installed provided you do it right ..... two ways to go..... straight tubes at right angles with fittings or bent acrylic..... fittings is a greater cost investment, bent is a bigger time investment. See the acrylic tube thread for lots of tips and pics of both.
> Again, I'd wait for the rad flush / prep kit (Blitz) from Mayhems .... the acid / base baths and subsequent flushing proved inadequate in my case
> Given my experience as evidenced by the pics above, I'd say no.....still stumped by the no reaction for 4 months and then bam, literally over a day or 2 was all changed.


Ahhh, thanks! im still really confused horribly







, im about 2 weeks from purchasing everthing i need to finally watercool. im seriously confused about everthing about watercooling, especially the fitting's.
So your with your experiance, i'll go ahead, and watercool my M6F. and so you dont really suggest to clean out a UT60 with distilled water, and flush over, and over? if so i'll go ahead and purchase the Blitz Pro kit.I'v seen alout of problems with the NexXxos rad's, and i was gonna purchase the UT60 360, And a UT60 280. and with all the problems everyone's having do you think, the SR-1 rads from HardwareLabs would be a better choice? and perform as-well, as the NexXxos rads? i just want to avoid any problems, for my first Loop... Thanks for the help btw!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGin*
> 
> got some fluids in but for some reason the uv effect in my system doesnt last more than a day. i get all of my mayhem products from frozencpu. i found someone having a similar issue due to the brand that makes the uv light. i am using the phobya uv led strips they are pretty bright but they do give off a bright purple light. heres the list of components in my loop if it helps. EK Supremacy CPU Block, XSPC Pump/Reservoir, EK GPU Block, Black Ice 360mm and 240mm Radiators, PrimoChill Acrylic Tubing, PrimoChill Fittings, Mayhem X1 Coolants and dyes. heres pics for now with the side panel off the purple doesnt seem as powerful/strong when the side panel is on of course. im also considering going to just white light with plain mayhem dye and give up on the uv dye.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGin*
> 
> i wasnt sure which i should go for so i went with phobya uv leds. i did look into the CCFL and i wanted to run 3 but i didnt like how i had to run 2 of the inverter boxes. but honestly im not going to get more uv lighting unless im sure its the reason my uv effect dyes in 1 day. i do have more than 1 brand of uv lighting and the effect is lost to all of them. like i said the uv is strong and has a bright glow then it just diminishes.


Did you use Copper sulphate or Benzyl Chloride in the loop? Those being PT Nuke, I&H Deadwater, Mayhems Biocide Extreme, etc. or PT Nuke PHN( benzyl chloride)

Those will eat away at UV effects. It very well may just be the lighting though, UV LEDs emit around 8% efficient at creating UV light UV light, around 80 something % purple and the rest is lost to heat if I remember correctly. LEDs are great for the visible color spectrum, not so much for UV effects. You'll end up drowning out UV effects in purple light.


----------



## TheGin

all thats in the loop is DI, Mayhem X1 coolant and mayhem dye.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGin*
> 
> all thats in the loop is DI, Mayhem X1 coolant and mayhem dye.


It's probably an issue with the LEDs. What I would do is if you have a black light or any other UV CCFL I would plug it in and shine it in the loop just to see if the dye illuminates under proper UV light.

Did you use any acids (lemon juice, or vinegar) to flush prior to filling the loop? UV liquids are sensitive to crap like that.


----------



## Wookieelover

Hey Mayhem...

Thought I'd give you a heads up about my system with your MAYHEMS X1 OIL BLACK.
Mixed it as per instructions with plain Distilled water.
Been running strong for year now, with almost 24/7 use.
*No colour changes to the coolant.
No colour changes to the tubing.
No colour changes to any of the pvc components.
No changes to system performance*.

i7 3820 oc [email protected]
Asus Rampage Formula IV
Gigabyte 7950 oc 1100/1575
Intel 330 SSD

Koolance 380i
1/2 3/4 Primochill LRT Adv Blood Red tube
UT60 280mm rad
Phobya G-charger 60mm 280mm rad
Phobya G-charger 60mm 140mm rad
9x Bitfenix Spectre Pro 140mm fans, 1x 120mm
Swiftech Maelstrom bay res with single 355x pump
Bitspower 1/2 3/4 barb fittings

*TOP PRODUCT GUYS*
Keep up the good work.


----------



## Mayhem

Once blitz kits are out fully we will be redoing the pastel black as we found its not the pastel at fault and tbh we cannot better it even though we've tried.


----------



## TheGin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It's probably an issue with the LEDs. What I would do is if you have a black light or any other UV CCFL I would plug it in and shine it in the loop just to see if the dye illuminates under proper UV light.
> 
> Did you use any acids (lemon juice, or vinegar) to flush prior to filling the loop? UV liquids are sensitive to crap like that.


Ya I'm ordering the CCFL kits tonight. When I first got the system together I did do quite a few flushes.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Some Orange Supernova Aurora 2


----------



## DarthBaggins

ooooohhh purdy. .


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Some Orange Supernova Aurora 2


Very nice

Going in that build you posted pics of the other day?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Very nice
> 
> Going in that build you posted pics of the other day?


Indeed


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Indeed


Awesome. I was actually gonna ask why you didn't have orange fluid in there the other day then lost where I saw it in the threads lol. The Orange Aurora gonna look real good in there


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Awesome. I was actually gonna ask why you didn't have orange fluid in there the other day then lost where I saw it in the threads lol. The Orange Aurora gonna look real good in there


Yeah I really can't wait to fill it









It'll be interesting to see how well the new formula holds up over time also.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Some Orange Supernova Aurora 2


Man, I could just imagine that dyed to look like lava on an RoG Impact full coverage waterblock with clear plexi in the NCase M1 Mini-ITX case with the res from fQ. Would be a wicked looking build, literally.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Yeah I really can't wait to fill it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'll be interesting to see how well the new formula holds up over time also.


Yeah. I been needing to replace my old Aurora with the new in my HTPC build. Perhaps I Will do it this week.

My gf uses it every night now tho so that is easier said than done. Down time is not appreciated lol


----------



## PepeLapiu

Hey guys
I'm debating between X1 clear, X1 blue, or X1 green.
Would blue or green stain at all?


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Some Orange Supernova Aurora 2


Hmmmmm....I'm getting thirsty.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Hmmmmm....I'm getting thirsty.


The second you smell it I promise you'll no longer be thirsty


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Hey guys
> I'm debating between X1 clear, X1 blue, or X1 green.
> Would blue or green stain at all?


Deep blue dye has been known to be second to red in staining, but X1 just uses the normal blue dye so it should be fine. Never heard of anyone having problems with green dye staining, so if it happens to you please let me know so I can put it down in my book of firsts.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> The second you smell it I promise you'll no longer be thirsty


Lol, same with X1. Smells like a really weird cleaner. XD


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Lol, same with X1. Smells like a really weird cleaner poison. XD


Fixed


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Fixed


Yet it's completely non toxic, or I'd be dead.







(Had to use my mouth to prime my Apogee Drive II back when I still had it in the loop, the water passes into the waterblock first, then the pump so it's a PITA to prime without literally forcing liquid into it)


----------



## error-id10t

Could someone ease my mind, see rig in sig.

I've only been running demineralised water, no issues mind you. But I've been tossing on the ideas about silver or X1 and figured I'll grab some clear X1 and mix it in. Assume this will cover me better than just demineralised previously and parts have no issues..?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> Could someone ease my mind, see rig in sig.
> 
> I've only been running demineralised water, no issues mind you. But I've been tossing on the ideas about silver or X1 and figured I'll grab some clear X1 and mix it in. Assume this will cover me better than just demineralised previously and parts have no issues..?


Exactly....X1 Clear contains all the inhibitors and biocides necessary.


----------



## Mayhem

To keep you all updated http://www.performance-pcs.com are haveing there Blitz Kit systems put in the post tommorw they are the exculusive resellers in the USA for the Mayhems Blitz Kits. If you live in the USA or that region you will only be able to buy these kits direct from them.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> To keep you all updated http://www.performance-pcs.com are haveing there Blitz Kit systems put in the post tommorw they are the exculusive resellers in the USA for the Mayhems Blitz Kits. If you live in the USA or that region you will only be able to buy these kits direct from them.


Good deal these are the rad cleaning kits right? I'm just about to order as well. Did they get their coolant supply in? Or do they still just have concentrate?

BTW that supernova aurora 2 looks amazing.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> To keep you all updated http://www.performance-pcs.com are haveing there Blitz Kit systems put in the post tommorw they are the exculusive resellers in the USA for the Mayhems Blitz Kits. If you live in the USA or that region you will only be able to buy these kits direct from them.












Will be looking for it


----------



## 15goudreau

Does anyone know if either PPC or Frozen has the new aurora 2 in blueeeeeee?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> To keep you all updated http://www.performance-pcs.com are haveing there Blitz Kit systems put in the post tommorw they are the exculusive resellers in the USA for the Mayhems Blitz Kits. If you live in the USA or that region you will only be able to buy these kits direct from them.


Thanks for the heads up Mick!!!


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Hey Mich,

When is the Aurora 2 going to be here in the states?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> Hey Mich,
> 
> When is the Aurora 2 going to be here in the states?


I believe it was stated before that the Aurora 2 was quietly replacing existing stock at retailers as they run out of the original Aurora. You'd have to call PPC or FCPU to see if they have the new version.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I believe it was stated before that the Aurora 2 was quietly replacing existing stock at retailers as they run out of the original Aurora. You'd have to call PPC or FCPU to see if they have the new version.


This is correct. The new version was being slip streamed in. This meant that the next order they placed, they get the new version. Not sure if they completely caught up or not yet, but that was a couple months back for the release, so it is possible.


----------



## bigbangSG

What the diff between the old version and the new version


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I believe it was stated before that the Aurora 2 was quietly replacing existing stock at retailers as they run out of the original Aurora. You'd have to call PPC or FCPU to see if they have the new version.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> This is correct. The new version was being slip streamed in. This meant that the next order they placed, they get the new version. Not sure if they completely caught up or not yet, but that was a couple months back for the release, so it is possible.


Thanks guys... time to refill my drawer of the old stuff with the new version.


----------



## marshymellows

Whats the best soft tubing for mayhams pastel white if you dont want it to cloud very fast


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Exactly....X1 Clear contains all the inhibitors and biocides necessary.


Nice thanks for that.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Whats the best soft tubing for mayhams pastel white if you dont want it to cloud very fast


Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT is the only recommended tubing if your looking for a transparent style tubing. IMHO and quite a few others too


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> What the diff between the old version and the new version


I do not remember all of the details, but the particles are slightly different and the viscosity is different. It should be able to keep the effect longer and work in a little more complex loops than the original version


----------



## 15goudreau

I think the coolant also lasts longer in general.

Hey Mick, have you thought about just selling the nano particles to be added to pastel? Seeing as you can filter them out of the Aurora to make pastel couldn't you do the opposite? For those who already own pastel


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I think the coolant also lasts longer in general.
> 
> Hey Mick, have you thought about just selling the nano particles to be added to pastel? Seeing as you can filter them out of the Aurora to make pastel couldn't you do the opposite? For those who already own pastel


This makes no sense to me.....Pastel and Aurora use different particles completely....The fluids themselves have different properties as well


----------



## 15goudreau

Maybe I am confused and you can filter pastel to make x1? I know there is a post about filtering either aurora or pastel to make either pastel or x1... not sure though.


----------



## d00bzilla

Why not just buy the right fluid? Idk maybe I'm crazy.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Why not just buy the right fluid? Idk maybe I'm crazy.


lol, this ^


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d00bzilla*
> 
> Why not just buy the right fluid? Idk maybe I'm crazy.


Because I already own pastel. And if it was as easy as adding particles to a fluid you already own it could be cheaper than buying another 40$ worth of coolant.


----------



## d00bzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Because I already own pastel. And if it was as easy as adding particles to a fluid you already own it could be cheaper than buying another 40$ worth of coolant.


True but that doesn't make very much business sense for mayhem. it would simultaneously hurt sales of new fluids and be giving away the secrets of how they make their products


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Because I already own pastel. And if it was as easy as adding particles to a fluid you already own it could be cheaper than buying another 40$ worth of coolant.


Sort of see what you are saying, but I thin the only reliable way of this would be to add to DI Water...which is basically buying it anyway, lol. Pastel, you'd have to filter everything out to get just the water anyway and then add it in. X1, you maybe could get it working. XT1 is questionable.

I think this may create a support nightmare, however. Someone could easily put in too much and then complain the system is clogged or it destroyed something in their loop. Would be hard to monitor and prove one way or another


----------



## 15goudreau

Yeah it was just a thought. It would be cool so that you could switch between x1 or pastel without having to buy more than you need. Once I need to clean out everything or redo the loop I'll just pick up some aurora and see how it goes.

Anyone know if aurora plays well with HL radiators? I don't know where to find out if they are straight channeled or not...


----------



## PepeLapiu

One quick question.

Copper blocks will oxidize over time.
It will turn black.
That's just natural for copper to do that.
Galvanic corrosion is a form of corrosion.
So is oxidation.

Will X1 prevent or significantly slow down copper blocks from turning black?
Ate these cases of guys running copper blocks on Mayhems for a year without copper oxidation happening?


----------



## d00bzilla

I run all copper blocks and rads and I don't see any oxidation while using mayhem.


----------



## Mayhem

It will only slow it down, it can never stop it completely how ever if you have no air in your system and its always running it would take a very very long time for it to set in.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I do not remember all of the details, but the particles are slightly different and the viscosity is different. It should be able to keep the effect longer and work in a little more complex loops than the original version


The newer aurora has 33% smaller particles on average, and the actual size of the particles has a larger range.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> This makes no sense to me.....Pastel and Aurora use different particles completely....The fluids themselves have different properties as well


Aurora is X1 based, Pastel is IDC based. Two completely different liquid bases.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Maybe I am confused and you can filter pastel to make x1? I know there is a post about filtering either aurora or pastel to make either pastel or x1... not sure though.


Filtering aurora makes X1, filtering pastel gives you a clogged filter XD. Those particles are tiny, they can effortlessly pass through a coffee filter with no issues.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> One quick question.
> 
> Copper blocks will oxidize over time.
> It will turn black.
> That's just natural for copper to do that.
> Galvanic corrosion is a form of corrosion.
> So is oxidation.
> 
> Will X1 prevent or significantly slow down copper blocks from turning black?
> Ate these cases of guys running copper blocks on Mayhems for a year without copper oxidation happening?


Had mine in my loop for just under two years, tore my build down and my pinboard style waterblock (Apogee Drive II), and all my nickle plated fittings had absolutely no signs of corrosion. If copper turns black you have a problem because that means it's corroding VERY fast. It will turn blue/green first and form a patina, which naturally shields the copper from further corrosion. If it's black that means it's corroding so fast the patina doesn't form, that's a bad day. If your loop isn't set up for disaster your copper will tarnish, but it should never full on corrode unless something is seriously wrong.


----------



## error-id10t

So got my X1 clear and mixed it in. It's meant to be little frothy during the bleeding right? It's gone normal now that it's running and all looks fine but figure I just confirm that.

Also is there a time-frame I should now look at the blocks etc considering it's got X1 mixed in?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> So got my X1 clear and mixed it in. It's meant to be little frothy during the bleeding right? It's gone normal now that it's running and all looks fine but figure I just confirm that.
> 
> Also is there a time-frame I should now look at the blocks etc considering it's got X1 mixed in?


Frothy at first is usual. As to timeframe of inspection, I just replace my X-1 annually, and have had zero issues, but I only have one system ATM using X-1, I've gone to pastel for the most part.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> So got my X1 clear and mixed it in. It's meant to be little frothy during the bleeding right? It's gone normal now that it's running and all looks fine but figure I just confirm that.
> 
> Also is there a time-frame I should now look at the blocks etc considering it's got X1 mixed in?


Replace sometime between one and two years, it's not a high maintenance fluid. Frothy is due to surfactants, which the X1 has in it so yeah it's normal. Think dish soap for comparison, dish soap is basically one really thick surfactant.


----------



## error-id10t

Thanks guys


----------



## Mayhem

Lol A while ago with the old Aurora you could filter it to make x1 how ever now it will pass through a coffee filter.
Also its not longer X1 based its a new makeup that was built for Aurora not X1.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Lol A while ago with the old Aurora you could filter it to make x1 how ever now it will pass through a coffee filter.
> Also its not longer X1 based its a new makeup that was built for Aurora not X1.


Good facts.

What's the actual liquids recommended time in loop set @, assuming we're just talking about the liquid and not the particles MTBF?


----------



## Mayhem

It should last up to 12 months in a working system. I wouldn't recommend using it longer as the surfactants we use only have a 1 year life span once active.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Lol A while ago with the old Aurora you could filter it to make x1 how ever now it will pass through a coffee filter.
> Also its not longer X1 based its a new makeup that was built for Aurora not X1.


I knew I wasn't crazy! Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to buy the aurora once I need to teardown my loop.

Anyone know where I can find out if my radiators (HL) would be a good/bad fit for aurora? Has to do with straight channeling right?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I knew I wasn't crazy! Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to buy the aurora once I need to teardown my loop.
> 
> Anyone know where I can find out if my radiators (HL) would be a good/bad fit for aurora? Has to do with straight channeling right?


Which radiators are they? To my knowledge the main thing to consider with radiators when using aurora is the # of lanes as the particles like to settle on the lip they create within the chambers.


----------



## 15goudreau

hardware labs 360 GTS...so probably a lot seeing as it is a FPI of 30


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> hardware labs 360 GTS...so probably a lot seeing as it is a FPI of 30


GTS is single row, so it should be a good rad. You'll probably need a hell of a pump though, the GTX has 1PSI pressure drop at 1GPM, and the GTS uses the same chambers except half the count so it will be insanely restrictive. If you have the Xflow variant that would probably help. Just be sure to keep flowrates up there and I would imagine it would be fine.


----------



## 15goudreau

I have a D5 cranked to 100% PWM







. Shouldn't need much more than that right? I have an old XSPC rasa kit with a pump inside the res that I was unsure of what to do with. Maybe it's time to gut it and add it to the loop? Will that increase my flow rate?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I have a D5 cranked to 100% PWM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Shouldn't need much more than that right? I have an old XSPC rasa kit with a pump inside the res that I was unsure of what to do with. Maybe it's time to gut it and add it to the loop? Will that increase my flow rate?


I'd recommend getting a flowrate monitor. I personally would never guesstimate with aurora, I loath premature teardowns of my loop to correct something trivial, such as flushing coolant due to improper use. I don't know the exact PSI drop a GTS will generate and I remember looking for it a while back with no luck, so I can't really use the D5 pressure curve to plot out your loops flowrate compared to it's resistance.


----------



## 15goudreau

When I do the first rebuild of the case I'll be getting an aquaero with flowrate and temps and all that good stuff. So I'll upgrade to aurora then. Thanks for the heads up


----------



## Mayhem

Also with the new Aurora 2 Some colours are more foamy when first used than others. E.g Supernova is not foamy were as Green is very foamy this is due to the chemical reactions between different chemicals. They all calm down within a few days usage but when first using them take you time filling a system. If we use to much defoamer it ruins the effect hence its a bit of a balancing act.

When we first started to redo Aurora sometimes it was like having a foam party in our lab


----------



## 15goudreau

sounds like beer


----------



## iBored

Hi guys, think this is a dumb question, but will mayhems x1 uv white concentrate be a clear liquid that glows white, or a white liquid?

And btw, are the logysis uv corner light strips any good?


----------



## hftjmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Hi guys, think this is a dumb question, but will mayhems x1 uv white concentrate be a clear liquid that glows white, or a white liquid?
> 
> And btw, are the logysis uv corner light strips any good?


First off there is no such thing as x1 UV white, it is pastel UV white and it will be a white liquid that glows white under UV light. If you go to their website you can find pictures of it under UV light and in normal light.


----------



## Kokin

Hey guys, just wanted to share what I did with my tube res and Pastel Ice White:


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Hi guys, think this is a dumb question, but will mayhems x1 uv white concentrate be a clear liquid that glows white, or a white liquid?
> 
> And btw, are the logysis uv corner light strips any good?


X1 Clear UV is clear and glows bright blue under UV light, Pastel White UV is white and glows bright blue under UV light.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Hey guys, just wanted to share what I did with my tube res and Pastel Ice White:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's cool. I've been thinking about doing this for a while now.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Hey guys, just wanted to share what I did with my tube res and Pastel Ice White:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not worried about aerating the coolant?


----------



## 15goudreau

If there is enough to pull from the bottom it shouldn't be an issue. As it's hitting the top and sides it's dripping down vs droplets hitting the water and disturbing it more. I would say this would be better in a larger res like a 150 or 250. But I think overall it'll be ok and give a nice effect for anyone watching.


----------



## paopaovocal

Can I use mayhem aurora with rigid tube?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> Can I use mayhem aurora with rigid tube?


Rigid tube is the safest scenario for any coolant.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paopaovocal*
> 
> Can I use mayhem aurora with rigid tube?
> 
> 
> 
> Rigid tube is the safest scenario for any coolant.
Click to expand...

Please elaborate.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Please elaborate.


I just mean in terms of plastisizer issues etc.. - there arn't any issues associated with acrylic tube at all. Of course I'm not suggesting there isn't safe normal tube, I'm just saying acrylic tube is truly hassle-free and the OP shouldn't be concerned about a thing regarding any kind of coolant.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I just mean in terms of plastisizer issues etc.. - there arn't any issues associated with acrylic tube at all. Of course I'm not suggesting there isn't safe normal tube, I'm just saying acrylic tube is truly hassle-free and the OP shouldn't be concerned about a thing regarding any kind of coolant.


Hassle free in terms of fluid/tube reactions, yes. Hassle-free in terms of working with it, not quite as much, lol


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Hassle free in terms of fluid/tube reactions, yes. Hassle-free in terms of working with it, not quite as much, lol


LOL, definitely not


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Please elaborate.
> 
> 
> 
> I just mean in terms of plastisizer issues etc.. - there arn't any issues associated with acrylic tube at all. Of course I'm not suggesting there isn't safe normal tube, I'm just saying acrylic tube is truly hassle-free and the OP shouldn't be concerned about a thing regarding any kind of coolant.
Click to expand...

Ah yes, OK. Thought you were saying acrylic tube was safer than nylon tube in terms of the coolant actually runs through it better, or something like that.








But in regards to plastisizer issues, agreed, if using acrylic then there's no chance of that being a problem. BUTT, it's rarely an issue these days with traditional nylon tube in my experience.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Not worried about aerating the coolant?


Any negative effects associated with it? I've been running this setup for almost 2 months now and I haven't noticed anything.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> If there is enough to pull from the bottom it shouldn't be an issue. As it's hitting the top and sides it's dripping down vs droplets hitting the water and disturbing it more. I would say this would be better in a larger res like a 150 or 250. But I think overall it'll be ok and give a nice effect for anyone watching.


That's with my MCP35x running at max speed (75% PWM = max speeds), I typically run my pump at 30~50% PWM, so sometimes it doesn't hit the top and just flows down after a certain height.

Honestly, I would love to get a larger res, but due to the size constraints of how I setup my Mercury S3, I would have to get rid of my side 240mm radiator to use larger tubes.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Any negative effects associated with it? I've been running this setup for almost 2 months now and I haven't noticed anything.
> That's with my MCP35x running at max speed (75% PWM = max speeds), I typically run my pump at 30~50% PWM, so sometimes it doesn't hit the top and just flows down after a certain height.
> 
> Honestly, I would love to get a larger res, but due to the size constraints of how I setup my Mercury S3, I would have to get rid of my side 240mm radiator to use larger tubes.


If you were aerating it, then it makes it less efficient at cooling because air is mixed into the fluid. Air of course has much less specific heat capacity...

You may be ok as someone pointed out if you have enough fluid in the res that the air can escape to the res again before getting sucked into the loop


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> If you were aerating it, then it makes it less efficient at cooling because air is mixed into the fluid. Air of course has much less specific heat capacity...
> 
> You may be ok as someone pointed out if you have enough fluid in the res that the air can escape to the res again before getting sucked into the loop


Oh yes, I made sure there are no air bubbles going back into the loop. I would see it traveling along my tubes or GPU block and I would hate to hear air getting stuck in my pump. I thought you meant it was bad for the fluid to be jumping around in my res.


----------



## darwing

Loved my first time use of mayhems pastel blue berry!! I can't wait to use the pastel pure black in my next build. Has aoura 2 been confirmed in the states yet or canada? Anyone have results of lifespan and looks?

Here is my first mayhems pastel usage










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














From start of finish build log with filling the loop and mods if ur interested it's long so grab some popcorn


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Loved my first time use of mayhems pastel blue berry!! I can't wait to use the pastel pure black in my next build. Has aoura 2 been confirmed in the states yet or canada? Anyone have results of lifespan and looks?
> 
> Here is my first mayhems pastel usage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From start of finish build log with filling the loop and mods if ur interested it's long so grab some popcorn


Your coolant says 7-Eleven BlueBerry Slushy, but your fans say Grape Drank.


----------



## xOperator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> UV Led Strips aren't the best to make UV Glow....UV CCFL will beat them anytime.
> 
> I have 3 UV CCFL and after 7 months now the glow on my X1 UV Emerald Green still kick!


This is Pastel UV White with only 1 Phobya UV LED strip


----------



## d00bzilla

The blueberry/purple combo is great. Reminds we of the wild berry pop tarts.


----------



## 15goudreau

Those are some sweet looking builds. Keep up the good work. I don't think I ended up partying any pictures here of my rig. Here's one


----------



## silveralf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Those are some sweet looking builds. Keep up the good work. I don't think I ended up partying any pictures here of my rig. Here's one


Wow, beautiful build you got there. What is this coolant?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silveralf*
> 
> Wow, beautiful build you got there. What is this coolant?


Looks like pastel blueberry blue. May have darkened it a bit with some deep blue perhaps


----------



## charliebrown

got a question im all done with my first loop i flush my rads good do i need to flush the whole system with distilled water and drain in order for mayhems pastel to work properly


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> got a question im all done with my first loop i flush my rads good do i need to flush the whole system with distilled water and drain in order for mayhems pastel to work properly


If you want to be thorough, you should do vinegar or lemon juice solution flush, then a bicard solution flush, and then rinse with DI water. Then put in your pastel.


----------



## Blackops_2

When are the cleaning kits coming?


----------



## Mayhem

The cleaning kits are out now direct, some will be hitting UK, EU retailers in the new few days and a load are being sent over to USA. Were actually making another 400 kits as the first 180 sold out before we even finished making them. We held 20 ourselves back to sell through our own shop.


----------



## barracks510

This guide might help some of you with tubing/fluid discolorations. The pH Guide. Please check it out if you are encountering issues (or if you love chemistry







).


----------



## SavellM

Im currently using Berry Blue with some UV in my rig














Its currently up for MOTM so go cast your votes


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Im currently using Berry Blue with some UV in my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its currently up for MOTM so go cast your votes


Is that a home built desk or third party? It's brilliant.


----------



## SavellM

Built at home









Well in my mates garden at first, then rest done at home...

And thanks


----------



## liberato87

@ Mayhem

I have a little problem.
I stored my pastel red (in their bottles) because I decide to use distilled water in my loop for a period.
Yesterday I filled the loop with the pastel red



and the flow collapsed!
With distilled water I had 210 L/h now It starts at 110 L/h and after some minutes it stays on the 80 L/h!
how is this possible?? could you help me?


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silveralf*
> 
> Wow, beautiful build you got there. What is this coolant?


Cyphon was partially right.

I took pastel white and added 2 bottles of deep blue (dark blue) dye to it. Probably could have achieved it with blueberry + one bottle but I wanted to try straight white first before I sleeved everything. Ended up liking the blue though. It's a bit darker than the pictures show but I am happy with the way it matched the sleeve.

Thanks for the compliment


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> @ Mayhem
> 
> I have a little problem.
> I stored my pastel red (in their bottles) because I decide to use distilled water in my loop for a period.
> Yesterday I filled the loop with the pastel red
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the flow collapsed!
> With distilled water I had 210 L/h now It starts at 110 L/h and after some minutes it stays on the 80 L/h!
> how is this possible?? could you help me?


beautiful bends you got there man!

Not sure about your flow issues. I don't think that's ever been seen here before. I would check all your connections and make sure your pump is running at the same speed it was prior. You can always drain/store your coolant and try again with water and see if the flow goes back up.


----------



## Mayhem

If any thing you flow should go up a tiny amount. Sound like you loop is blocked and looking what rad you have i hope you cleaned it well before adding pastel red if not it will change colour ...


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> @ Mayhem
> 
> I have a little problem.
> I stored my pastel red (in their bottles) because I decide to use distilled water in my loop for a period.
> Yesterday I filled the loop with the pastel red
> 
> 
> 
> and the flow collapsed!
> With distilled water I had 210 L/h now It starts at 110 L/h and after some minutes it stays on the 80 L/h!
> how is this possible?? could you help me?


What are you using to monitor flow? It might not that you now have lower flow rates, but that the flow rate monitor is clogged. Cheaper mechanical flow meters can be clogged by nano fluids.


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If any thing you flow should go up a tiny amount. Sound like you loop is blocked and looking what rad you have i hope you cleaned it well before adding pastel red if not it will change colour ...


I got the same loop.. It is 2 years since I use pastel red with the same components.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/1210#post_19079883

never had flow issues.
Using distilled water I had flow about 220 L/h. So nothing wrong with connection, waterblock or radiators!
The only difference is the liquid used.

I have not cleaned the loop (obviously I cleaned the radiators with vinegar before using them the first time), if you mean using bicarbonate to normalize pH, after using distilled water. I will do (con you repeat me the procedure? I dont find it on the first page) but i dont think it is related to flow issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> What are you using to monitor flow? It might not that you now have lower flow rates, but that the flow rate monitor is clogged. Cheaper mechanical flow meters can be clogged by nano fluids.


I use two flow meter, one mechanic aquacomputer highflow and one aquamputer mps 200.
Never had issues before, I repeat I have been using pastel red for about 2 years. And I used distilled water just for few months.


----------



## Mayhem

Hmm oky we have the same flow meter with no issues could it be just wear and tear on you system as said the liquid should not affect your system.


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hmm oky we have the same flow meter with no issues could it be just wear and tear on you system as said the liquid should not affect your system.


sorry but I can't understand what you mean, sorry but english is not my first language.

If I use water the flow increases to 220 L/h. If I use pastel red is 90... this is the only difference.
should I have to do anything to solve that issue?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> sorry but I can't understand what you mean, sorry but english is not my first language.
> 
> If I use water the flow increases to 220 L/h. If I use pastel red is 90... this is the only difference.
> should I have to do anything to solve that issue?


Have you tried filtering the pastel before putting it back in? Could try running it thru some coffee filters a couple times.


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Have you tried filtering the pastel before putting it back in? Could try running it thru some coffee filters a couple times.


I have already thought about it.. I will try and let you know.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Personally, I would drain that loop and fill it up with water and see if the flow is the same.

Then I would fill it up with new pastel red. It sounds like you've had that pastel red for a long time sitting in those bottles and they really don't cost that much for a new bottle.


----------



## IT Diva

I'd make sure it's totally bled first, before doing anything drastic.

An air bubble trapped in the flow meter or somewhere else could be the issue.

It's not at all uncommon for guys to drain and refill their loops and wonder where the flow went.

Darlene


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barracks510*
> 
> This guide might help some of you with tubing/fluid discolorations. The pH Guide. Please check it out if you are encountering issues (or if you love chemistry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


What if you hate chemistry..


----------



## silveralf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looks like pastel blueberry blue. May have darkened it a bit with some deep blue perhaps


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Cyphon was partially right.
> 
> I took pastel white and added 2 bottles of deep blue (dark blue) dye to it. Probably could have achieved it with blueberry + one bottle but I wanted to try straight white first before I sleeved everything. Ended up liking the blue though. It's a bit darker than the pictures show but I am happy with the way it matched the sleeve.
> 
> Thanks for the compliment


I have some Mayhem pastel blue berry on it's way for my wc loop so I might be adding deep blue to it as an experiment... The colore you received is gave me the enspiration


----------



## SavellM

Hey Mick,

Will you guys be doing a XT-1 UV Green?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Hey Mick,
> 
> Will you guys be doing a XT-1 UV Green?


Unless UK stock of XT-1 is WAY more extensive than U.S. stock XT-1 generally only comes in the basic colors. Remember that colored XT-1 is nothing more than XT-1 clear with factory dyes already mixed in, so putting some mayhems dyes in XT-1 would be just as good.


----------



## liberato87

guys i decided to flush the system with bicarbonate to normalize ph (i will test pastel again to see).
can you give me the amount of bicarbonate for 1 lt of water (distilled)?
and how much time I have to flush..

a little guide







thank you


----------



## SavellM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Unless UK stock of XT-1 is WAY more extensive than U.S. stock XT-1 generally only comes in the basic colors. Remember that colored XT-1 is nothing more than XT-1 clear with factory dyes already mixed in, so putting some mayhems dyes in XT-1 would be just as good.


So for a UV green, I would use:

XT-1 Clear
and UV Green dye?

And then no kill coil or biocide or anything needed?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> So for a UV green, I would use:
> 
> XT-1 Clear
> and UV Green dye?
> 
> And then no kill coil or biocide or anything needed?


Correct, absolutely 110% do not use additional biocides, XT-1 is ethylene glycol based, ethylene glycol plus copper sulphate (PT Nuke, I&H Deadwater, etc.) will result in a chem reaction in which the product is a gunk.


----------



## SavellM

Sounds lovely that gunk









Ok perfect... I'll do this then.

Thanks again.

And to make UV Blue, I would need:
XT-1 Clear
Blue Dye
UV Clear/Blue Dye?

Would the Blue + UV Clear/Blue in 1 loop cause Ph levels to go whack?

Lastly XT-1 is the new king on the hill.
Better than X1, or Pre-Mix hey?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Sounds lovely that gunk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok perfect... I'll do this then.
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> And to make UV Blue, I would need:
> XT-1 Clear
> Blue Dye
> UV Clear/Blue Dye?
> 
> Would the Blue + UV Clear/Blue in 1 loop cause Ph levels to go whack?
> 
> Lastly XT-1 is the new king on the hill.
> Better than X1, or Pre-Mix hey?


Honestly X1 performs identically to water from what I've seen. XT-1 has MUCH stronger corrosion inhibitors and in higher concentrations can act as an antifreeze for subambient chillers. Either will work.

Blue dye + uv dye shouldn't mess with the pH at all. Before I flushed/refilled a few months back I had probably 13ml of invisible blue, i.e. clear/uv blue, in my loop and pH change didn't show up on my strips from before/after. I don't think any mayhems dyes will mess up pH as pastel is the most sensitive coolant to pH imbalances and people dump excess of a couple dozen ml of dye into pastel to color it.


----------



## SavellM

Awesome, thanks for your reply's...

I'll stick to XT-1 Clear and either go UV Green, or UV Blue...


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> Hey Mick,
> 
> Will you guys be doing a XT-1 UV Green?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless UK stock of XT-1 is WAY more extensive than U.S. stock XT-1 generally only comes in the basic colors. Remember that colored XT-1 is nothing more than XT-1 clear with factory dyes already mixed in, so putting some mayhems dyes in XT-1 would be just as good.
Click to expand...

<- this. Don't see the point of changing what sells well.You can always add dyes as suggested. ZytheEKS gives really good advice all the time









@liberato87 1 Tablespoon per 1 ltr of water.


----------



## Roikyou

Wanted an opinion. Going to try Mayhems soon, really thinking about pastel white to x1 blood red. Whats a better performer, going all acrylic (one flex tube left to replace). My build seems predominantly dark and black in colors. Wonduring if blood red would really darken the build or if I should flip to the pastel white to brighten up the build. Any opinions appreciated.

The more I read this forum, looks like pastel is suggested to change every three years and X1 every 9 months. Sounds like pastel could be a better option...


----------



## 15goudreau

Pastel will also maintain the same color density (color darkness)throughout your res and tubes where as clear x1 will appear darker in the res and lighter in the tubes.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Pastel will also maintain the same color density (color darkness)throughout your res and tubes where as clear x1 will appear darker in the res and lighter in the tubes.


Think I'm going to do a black and white build with Mayhems Ice White Pastel. Thanks for the input.


----------



## 15goudreau

It looks good. Here is a picture of how it looked in my build...sorta


----------



## Kokin

I liked going with Black and White as my theme:



I may have had a bit of blue dye stuck inside a rad (even after flushing for an hour), so my Ice White looks like an off-white with a slight bluish tint. But it still looks pure white with a strong light directed at it as seen in the picture.


----------



## Roikyou

Looks good. I'm running Dominator ram, so it's white, my 780 ti classy has a white lite, so I'm going to switch out the power and reset on my Caselabs for white switches, white led's in the reservoir and white led's. So it will be a good blend of white and black. Thanks for the pics and inputs.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Looks good. I'm running Dominator ram, so it's white, my 780 ti classy has a white lite, so I'm going to switch out the power and reset on my Caselabs for white switches, white led's in the reservoir and white led's. So it will be a good blend of white and black. Thanks for the pics and inputs.


Sounds like a solid plan. Good luck!


----------



## SavellM

I also did a black and white theme with Mayhems ICE Dragon












I really like it...

Although I have since changed to Berry Blue, and about to try UV Green


----------



## Roikyou

I've had the blue build for so long and the case again is so dark, figured I wanted to try to lighten things up, other option was blood red, maybe some day when I want a change...

Looks good, thanks for the pics.


----------



## cyphon

Worked on getting my dye ratio set for my Madhouse build. Was around 5:1 red to deep red. Maybe a little more red than that


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Worked on getting my dye ratio set for my Madhouse build. Was around 5:1 red to deep red. Maybe a little more red than that


looks just about right, maybe a touch more.

GO HAWKS


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> looks just about right, maybe a touch more.
> 
> GO HAWKS


I agree, I think 1-2 more drops of deep red would do it


----------



## Mayhem

Were proud to announce the ship has landed in the USA (took ages). Performance PCs in USA now has Full stock of Mayhems product lines http://bit.ly/1obbMT2 thats inc the premixed fluids.







It may take them a few days to list everything and get it all into stock it was a lot of gear.

On another note "Booooooooo" we having quite a few loop holes to jump though getting blitz over there how ever were getting there......


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Were proud to announce the ship has landed in the USA (took ages). Performance PCs in USA now has Full stock of Mayhems product lines http://bit.ly/1obbMT2 thats inc the premixed fluids.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It may take them a few days to list everything and get it all into stock it was a lot of gear.
> 
> On another note "Booooooooo" we having quite a few loop holes to jump though getting blitz over there how ever were getting there......


I was wondering how the Blitz was coming along how customs would like it, lol.


----------



## Mayhem

Well lets say it was refused once so we sat for two days looking into all the USA laws and to then follow up with all the correct safety information we have to provide ect ect. How ever we may increase the size of the bottles so that the fluids are not as strong for shipping so we can forgo all the loopholes.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Well lets say it was refused once so we sat for two days looking into all the USA laws and to then follow up with all the correct safety information we have to provide ect ect. How ever we may increase the size of the bottles so that the fluids are not as strong for shipping so we can forgo all the loopholes.


Hahaha, yeah, I had a feeling it was going to be a frustrating process. At least it sounds like you are making head way. I will be looking for it. I have several rads that are ready for it


----------



## charliebrown

So this bottle from ppc is bigger and cheaper than the one I just bought from frozen cpu


----------



## Blackops_2

I hope Blitz comes through. I got two liters of Mint green pastel from Performance-PCs.

To clean the blocks and such i was just going to flush them with distilled, this is pretty standard right? No need for alternative methods?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I hope Blitz comes through. I got two liters of Mint green pastel from Performance-PCs.
> 
> To clean the blocks and such i was just going to flush them with distilled, this is pretty standard right? No need for alternative methods?


That should be ok for the blocks if they are new and never have been in a system before, but if you were waiting for blitz, step two goes thru the whole system


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That should be ok for the blocks if they are new and never have been in a system before, but if you were waiting for blitz, step two goes thru the whole system


Everything is new other than the 780 block which has been run with distilled + biocide, so how should i flush it? Grab another res and a cheap pump and just flush or disassemble and clean it?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Everything is new other than the 780 block which has been run with distilled + biocide, so how should i flush it? Grab another res and a cheap pump and just flush or disassemble and clean it?


You could do it either way, lol. I'd probably just hand clean it cause it is cheaper


----------



## Blackops_2

I guess I'll see. Wondering how difficult it is to disassemble the GPU block with it on? Or would I have to take it off. Thought about making a filtering system for the rads as well

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would recommend taking it off just to prevent any oh ***** moments.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I guess I'll see. Wondering how difficult it is to disassemble the GPU block with it on? Or would I have to take it off. Thought about making a filtering system for the rads as well
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


the only PITA is the main o ring. People recommend using stop plugs to hold it in place if it is causing issues. Filters can get a bit expensive to build, but can be cheap if you can find/ or order a small fountain pump. The GE water filter is only ~$20


----------



## Blackops_2

I feel like it's going to be a PITA disassembling the block as well. Though that's because I didn't mount it I guess or I have never put one on. Gotta learn some time I suppose.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21327/ex-liq-371/Mayhems_Pastel_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_UV_White.html#blank

White normal and blueish UV

How would that play out with Mayhems Pastel Red?

Would it be pink normal and purple with UV? Not sure if color spectrum applies to this type of "UV white"


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21327/ex-liq-371/Mayhems_Pastel_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_UV_White.html#blank
> 
> White normal and blueish UV
> 
> How would that play out with Mayhems Pastel Red?
> 
> Would it be pink normal and purple with UV? Not sure if color spectrum applies to this type of "UV white"


UV White is just pastel with Invisible UV blue. The UV blue pretty much overpowers anything. I've cut it with 5/1 UV Pink/invisible UV blue, and when you shine UV light on it it's just bright blue.


----------



## giltyler

I have just completely cleaned my radiators and CPU block with the lemon juice/Bicarbonate method and cleaned the Bay reservoir with warm distilled water.
I will be installing the following
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13255/koo-290/Koolance_Coolant_Temperature_Sensor_Plug_10K_Ohm_SEN-AP008G.html?tl=g30c101s457
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8294/koo-158/Koolance_INS-FM17N_Coolant_Flow_Meter.html?tl=g30c101s457
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11672/koo-261/Koolance_ADT-FM03_Flow_Meter_Frequency_Adapter_for_INS-FM17N.html?tl=g30c229s582
I am thinking about using MAYHEMS Ice White to get some color in my Monsoon Bay Reservoir and want to know if it will change the look in my tubing PrimoChill advanced LRT Brilliant blue tubing


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> I have just completely cleaned my radiators and CPU block with the lemon juice/Bicarbonate method and cleaned the Bay reservoir with warm distilled water.
> I will be installing the following
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13255/koo-290/Koolance_Coolant_Temperature_Sensor_Plug_10K_Ohm_SEN-AP008G.html?tl=g30c101s457
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8294/koo-158/Koolance_INS-FM17N_Coolant_Flow_Meter.html?tl=g30c101s457
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11672/koo-261/Koolance_ADT-FM03_Flow_Meter_Frequency_Adapter_for_INS-FM17N.html?tl=g30c229s582
> I am thinking about using MAYHEMS Ice White to get some color in my Monsoon Bay Reservoir and want to know if it will change the look in my tubing PrimoChill advanced LRT Brilliant blue tubing


Might make em look a little lighter blue, but they should keep the same color


----------



## midnightgypsy

Hello,
I am currenly using another brand of coolant PrimoChill ICE UV red. And I am displeased with the pink look. Maybe because of lack of UV lighting. But, my question, with a few reveiws that I've came across on the pastel line compared to others. Pastel produces higher temps. I find this hard to believe myself. And would love to go pastel red. Oh on to my question(s) Pastel or X1 or XT-1.... And If X1 or XT-1, does/will it look pink in anyway... Would love a real time pic or two of X1/XT-1....... Thanks you all.....Russ


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnightgypsy*
> 
> Hello,
> I am currenly using another brand of coolant PrimoChill ICE UV red. And I am displeased with the pink look. Maybe because of lack of UV lighting. But, my question, with a few reveiws that I've came across on the pastel line compared to others. Pastel produces higher temps. I find this hard to believe myself. And would love to go pastel red. Oh on to my question(s) Pastel or X1 or XT-1.... And If X1 or XT-1, does/will it look pink in anyway... Would love a real time pic or two of X1/XT-1....... Thanks you all.....Russ


Pastel will give you around 2 celsius higher LIQUID temps. Component temps will be a fraction of that higher. X1 will perform nearly identical to distilled water. XT-1 performs pretty much the same as X1 except it has WAY stronger corrosion inhibitors. I'll always go with a clear base and dyes to get the color you want, so X(T)-1 clear or pastel white, then use the various mayhems dyes to dye it. On a side note UV red doesn't exist, all UV red coolants are Red dye with UV pink dye. Clever mixture can make the UV effect look "more red" but UV red in of itself isn't on the market.


----------



## Dragonsyph

Would you guys suggest adding Mayhems UV dye to Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O.
I want the most reactive UV hose and dye. So what color would react and be the brightest?
Or would you suggest just using UV hose.?
The thing is, i want the hose and all the water in my 270mm res to glow from UV.
So i would have to have both.
*So what would be the best hose and dye to get the best and brightest UV reaction?*


----------



## midnightgypsy

I wasn't after any UV effect to say. This is my first build and my first WC rig. I have a lot to learn on this subject.... FTR.... My temps seem to be in the ballpark.... Under Prime for two hours avg was around 73c with a spike up to 83c for my cpu.... GPU testing and benching they ran an avg of 42 - 48c.... Also to note my pump is set to 1.... I'm thinking XT-1/X1 red with Mayhem Deep red dye will produce the red I'm after.... Thank you so much for replying....Russ


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragonsyph*
> 
> Would you guys suggest adding Mayhems UV dye to Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O.
> I want the most reactive UV hose and dye. So what color would react and be the brightest?
> Or would you suggest just using UV hose.?
> The thing is, i want the hose and all the water in my 270mm res to glow from UV.
> So i would have to have both.
> *So what would be the best hose and dye to get the best and brightest UV reaction?*


What color are you looking for? I'd advise against UV hose and dyes simply because it's redundant. The entire point of colored tubing is to avoid using dyes/coolants, the entire point of using colored coolants is to have a color to match your build. Why would you use both when they are each to avoid using the other one? Adding mayhems dyes to pure distilled water is fine, but I'd say go one further and spring for some X1, you get no corrosion protection and no anti microbials with pure distilled. There's also no point in using mayhems ultra pure, normal distilled water from your local grocery store will work fine. Mayhems released that because apparently the UK had piss poor distilled water, so they released their own ultrapure for people who's local stores didn't carry any good purity distilled water.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnightgypsy*
> 
> I wasn't after any UV effect to say. This is my first build and my first WC rig. I have a lot to learn on this subject.... FTR.... My temps seem to be in the ballpark.... Under Prime for two hours avg was around 73c with a spike up to 83c for my cpu.... GPU testing and benching they ran an avg of 42 - 48c.... Also to note my pump is set to 1.... I'm thinking XT-1/X1 red with Mayhem Deep red dye will produce the red I'm after.... Thank you so much for replying....Russ


If you're going after blood red then you want red and deep blue. Just red will give you just red.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

ZytheEKS is helping me out but I do need some extra feedback/opinions

Situation:

I am using Pastel Red concentrate.

If I mix
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17677/ex-liq-269/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Clear_UV_Blue_.html#blank

Then I will have pastel red normal and with UV lighting it will completely turn blue?

If I mix
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21327/ex-liq-371/Mayhems_Pastel_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_UV_White.html#blank

Then it will turn pink pastel color normal? under UV lighting it will turn completely blue as well?


----------



## Dragonsyph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> What color are you looking for? I'd advise against UV hose and dyes simply because it's redundant. The entire point of colored tubing is to avoid using dyes/coolants, the entire point of using colored coolants is to have a color to match your build. Why would you use both when they are each to avoid using the other one? Adding mayhems dyes to pure distilled water is fine, but I'd say go one further and spring for some X1, you get no corrosion protection and no anti microbials with pure distilled. There's also no point in using mayhems ultra pure, normal distilled water from your local grocery store will work fine. Mayhems released that because apparently the UK had piss poor distilled water, so they released their own ultrapure for people who's local stores didn't carry any good purity distilled water.
> If you're going after blood red then you want red and deep blue. Just red will give you just red.


I want what ever color is going to be the brightest in UV. I do like blue or green.

And if you get UV hose, then the res wouldent be UV reactive. So your saying i should go with clear tube, and use UV dye, instead of UV tube and dye?

Looked at some videos, and the Mayhems clear blue UV dye looks pretty sweet.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragonsyph*
> 
> I want what ever color is going to be the brightest in UV. I do like blue or green.
> 
> And if you get UV hose, then the res wouldent be UV reactive. So your saying i should go with clear tube, and use UV dye, instead of UV tube and dye?
> 
> Looked at some videos, and the Mayhems clear blue UV dye looks pretty sweet.


The invisible uv blue would be your best bet for potent uv color. 5 drops per liter and your loop will look radioactive. Stick to x1 or xt1for your coolant base. CuSo4, i.e. Copper(II)Sulphate) doesn't play nice with UV effects and benzyl chloride, that is pt nuke pHn, will absolutely obliterate dyes, it'll take a blood red coolant to nearly clear in minutes.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> The invisible uv blue would be your best bet for potent uv color. 5 drops per liter and your loop will look radioactive. Stick to x1 or xt1for your coolant base. CuSo4, i.e. Copper(II)Sulphate) doesn't play nice with UV effects and benzyl chloride, that is pt nuke pHn, will absolutely obliterate dyes, it'll take a blood red coolant to nearly clear in minutes.


True story


----------



## Dragonsyph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> The invisible uv blue would be your best bet for potent uv color. 5 drops per liter and your loop will look radioactive. Stick to x1 or xt1for your coolant base. CuSo4, i.e. Copper(II)Sulphate) doesn't play nice with UV effects and benzyl chloride, that is pt nuke pHn, will absolutely obliterate dyes, it'll take a blood red coolant to nearly clear in minutes.


So use clear tubes, with x1 coolant and use 5 drops per liter of clear uv blue?
Thanks for the help, any chance you got a link to said coolant at a good website.
Or just a good site where i can search around.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragonsyph*
> 
> So use clear tubes, with x1 coolant and use 5 drops per liter of clear uv blue?
> Thanks for the help, any chance you got a link to said coolant at a good website.
> Or just a good site where i can search around.


Performance PCs has pretty much all of Mayhems stuff. Go into their fluids section and they have Mayhems section


----------



## Dragonsyph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Performance PCs has pretty much all of Mayhems stuff. Go into their fluids section and they have Mayhems section


Thanks 8)


----------



## bigbangSG

is it ok to use x-1 with Phobya CPU-Cooler UC-2 LT Intel – Silver Nickel Plexi Edition water block?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> is it ok to use x-1 with Phobya CPU-Cooler UC-2 LT Intel - Silver Nickel Plexi Edition water block?


It sure is, as long as the block doesn't start leaking, the Phobya blocks aren't known for great quality.


----------



## BradleyW

I'm sorry if I've asked before, but I can't remember the answer to the question. I plan to tear down my loop, clean it all and rebuild it. I'm using Mayhems X1 clear. How should I clean my loop? I'm using 2 large Rads, a Micro Res, D5 pump and a bunch of copper blocks.
Here is an image of my loop for reference:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Thank you very much.


----------



## skupples

So I'm wondering what the accepted rule of thumb is when it comes to vinegar flushing. Seems like too much would damage acrylic and and be a PITA to get all of the copper film out even with the soda flush. So im curious what PPM people recommend.


----------



## 15goudreau

I don't think it is an exact science where people are measuring the amount of vinegar down to the PPM.







I think it's about 5:1 water to vinegar, run it for a bit. Then it's like two tablespoons of sodium bicarbonate to 1 liter of water.


----------



## skupples

sounds like a process that would require 10 gallons of water


----------



## Mayhem

Dont forget when first flushing you can use tap water as long as its not terrible. Its just on the final rinse use Di water so you don't need to spend a fortune.


----------



## giltyler

Hey Mayhems
I have a loop with a capacity of 1.2 liters will one bottle of pastel ice white concentrate work or should I use 2 and have some left over


----------



## Jimhans1

Use two, and have some left over, each bottle of concentrate only makes 1 liter, so your loop wouldn't be full, and if you added more water to make up the difference, it would water down the pastel by 20%+.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Dont forget when first flushing you can use tap water as long as its not terrible. Its just on the final rinse use Di water so you don't need to spend a fortune.


Since i have one block that was run with distilled + biocide, do you think it would be okay to just flush it with distilled thoroughly before going to pastel?


----------



## 15goudreau

How did you clean your radiators? what kind of tubing were you using?


----------



## Mayhem

@ Blackops_2 What was your rad if it was a alphacool then id do a full flush if it was most other brands you can just run a di flush with a tablespoon of Bicarb just to make sure.

@15goudreau if thats aimed at me we have an abundance of different types of tubing and we flush our rads out with strong acid before use and then use stage 2 of our blitz kit now (blitz basic) as its unbelievably effective for a full system flush.


----------



## skupples

Anyone know of any affects with Vinegar & Acrylic? I did a light dosage of vinegar when I was flushing my rads in the sump pump + GE filter system, but they have now been sitting for 3 weeks since then, and would like to just do the entire system for once. The last few builds have had build issues, even after extreme amounts of flushing, & i'm hoping this will nip it in the bud. These rads (minus 1) are all 2-3 years old now.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> How did you clean your radiators? what kind of tubing were you using?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @ Blackops_2 What was your rad if it was a alphacool then id do a full flush if it was most other brands you can just run a di flush with a tablespoon of Bicarb just to make sure.


I have a Swiftech MCR 320 and a EK coolstream XT 120, primochill advanced LRT tubing. Everything is new other than the GPU block which was used when i got it, it had had distilled + biocide in it. Trying to figure out whether i can get away with flushing it or if i need to take it apart and clean it, it's already mounted on the 780.


----------



## Mayhem

youll get away with just flushing it with some Bicarb (1 tablespoon to 1 ltr for 1 to 2 hours) to neutralise the effects of the biocide alone.







the 1/2 hour flush with Di and you'll be done.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> youll get away with just flushing it with some Bicarb to neutralise the effects of the biocide alone.


Great news! Thankyou, i wasn't looking forward to taking the block apart lol

So no need for vinegar in my case? Or was that just for the GPU block? The new parts would still need to be vineger, Bicarbonate, then water right?


----------



## 15goudreau

To be safe use vinegar on the radiator. Tubing is good. But you will probably be ok with the radiator as is.

@mayhem. No I wasn't referring to you Mick, I was asking blackops 2


----------



## Blackops_2

This might get annoying, but hell i have to be sure hehe. So for the GPU block that has been used, just distilled and Bicarb. For the radiators, distilled, vinegar, and then bicarb to neutralize the vinegar, then more distilled. And for the new CPU block just distilled?


----------



## giltyler

With the Mayhems Ice White Pastel and distilled water I should NOT run any silver bullets/ kill coils correct.

I flushed both radiators with lemon juice mixed with boiling distilled water 3 times letting them soak for 20 minutes and shaking and draining then the bicarbonate mix twice.
While everything is out I can do anything else now it it will help


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> With the Mayhems Ice White Pastel and distilled water I should NOT run any silver bullets/ kill coils correct.
> 
> I flushed both radiators with lemon juice mixed with boiling distilled water 3 times letting them soak for 20 minutes and shaking and draining then the bicarbonate mix twice.
> While everything is out I can do anything else now it it will help


Make sure you flush with just DI Water before filling the loop.

And you are correct, you do not need any other additive or silver in your loop with pastel. Just add water (DI of course







), as they say


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> With the Mayhems Ice White Pastel and distilled water I should NOT run any silver bullets/ kill coils correct.
> 
> I flushed both radiators with lemon juice mixed with boiling distilled water 3 times letting them soak for 20 minutes and shaking and draining then the bicarbonate mix twice.
> While everything is out I can do anything else now it it will help


Just mix the 250ml Ice White Pastel concentrate with 750ml of distilled water to make a 1L mix and you should be good to go. It doesn't have to be exactly 1L, but try to make it as close as possible unless your loop requires 2 bottles of Pastel.


----------



## bigbangSG

i do not want to add sliver but monsoon is using sliver for their fitting, so i got no choice. btw will there be any problem if there is silver when i using mayhem?


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Just mix the 250ml Ice White Pastel concentrate with 750ml of distilled water to make a 1L mix and you should be good to go. It doesn't have to be exactly 1L, but try to make it as close as possible unless your loop requires 2 bottles of Pastel.


I grabbed 2 bottles of the Mayhems Ice white pasted concentrate from My local Microcenter to be safe.
My loop is close to 1.3 liter.
I will for sure mix I full bottle with 750 ML of distilled to start Then when I top off should the complete 2nd bottle be mixed or just a small portion?

Also I am debating connecting the loop outside the case and doing a running flush any recommendations
I stated what I have done so far a few posts back


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> i do not want to add sliver but monsoon is using sliver for their fitting, so i got no choice. btw will there be any problem if there is silver when i using mayhem?


Nope, but make sure you don't use silver with nickel-plated stuff. It's been known for silver to slowly corrode nickel-plated things, but it doesn't always happen.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> I grabbed 2 bottles of the Mayhems Ice white pasted concentrate from My local Microcenter to be safe.
> My loop is close to 1.3 liter.
> I will for sure mix I full bottle with 750 ML of distilled to start Then when I top off should the complete 2nd bottle be mixed or just a small portion?
> 
> Also I am debating connecting the loop outside the case and doing a running flush any recommendations
> I stated what I have done so far a few posts back


I would only use the 75ml of concentrate for the 300ml portion and save the rest so you can use it again in the future.

You can do a running flush if you want, but make sure it's with distilled water. A running flush isn't needed, but if you had dye used, it may help flush your system further.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Nope, but make sure you don't use silver with nickel-plated stuff. It's been known for silver to slowly corrode nickel-plated things, but it doesn't always happen.
> I would only use the 75ml of concentrate for the 300ml portion and save the rest so you can use it again in the future.
> 
> You can do a running flush if you want, but make sure it's with distilled water. A running flush isn't needed, but if you had dye used, it may help flush your system further.


Or 82ml.....









I would personally mix the whole second, use as much as needed, then pour the rest BACK into the 250ml bottles that the concentrate came in. Once mixed, it still has 2-3 years life span. Just put the bottles in your office closet, to keep at a constant temp and no sun.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Or 82ml.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would personally mix the whole second, use as much as needed, then pour the rest BACK into the 250ml bottles that the concentrate came in. Once mixed, it still has 2-3 years life span. Just put the bottles in your office closet, to keep at a constant temp and no sun.


How'd you get 82ml?

Wouldn't 300ml of 1000ml result in 30% of usage? So (250ml * 0.3) = 75ml. The 7ml difference wouldn't matter, but I'm just curious haha.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> How'd you get 82ml?
> 
> Wouldn't 300ml of 1000ml result in 30% of usage? So (250ml * 0.3) = 75ml. The 7ml difference wouldn't matter, but I'm just curious haha.


Since he said about 1.3L, I decided that it was better to use about 1/3


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Since he said about 1.3L, I decided that it was better to use about 1/3


Makes sense.


----------



## skupples

stumbled across that redraider drama... lol... saw that video... LOL.

Still not convinced I want to run acid through my entire system, seems like such a PITA. So many nooks & crannies, not sure how you would get it all out, even w/ the sodium bath.


----------



## bigbangSG

sad will be using 2x 290 ek nickel water block


----------



## dcatvn

Hi all,

I am just wondering which product should I use if I want the coolant to match my tubing. The tube I will be using is Primochill Brilliant UV blue.

Thank you


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> i do not want to add sliver but monsoon is using sliver for their fitting, so i got no choice. btw will there be any problem if there is silver when i using mayhem?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Nope, but make sure you don't use silver with nickel-plated stuff. It's been known for silver to slowly corrode nickel-plated things, but it doesn't always happen.
> I would only use the 75ml of concentrate for the 300ml portion and save the rest so you can use it again in the future.
> 
> You can do a running flush if you want, but make sure it's with distilled water. A running flush isn't needed, but if you had dye used, it may help flush your system further.


You should be fine with silver and nickle in the same loop assuming you have an anti corrosive in the loop. It's just another metal, mind you one that has been known to leech ions from nickle, but non the less with corrosion inhibitors I wouldn't be super worried about it. Personally I'd play it safe with XT-1 but I tend to be on the more paranoid side of loop safety. X1 has corrosion inhibitors in it, but XT-1 is EG based which is an ionic buffer making it super effective at preventing corrosion caused by multiple metals. I don't know the specifics of X1s corrosion inhibitors other than it has them and they worked on my loop. XD


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Is too much of the concentrate or not enough of the concentrate in a loop harmful or not protective enough?

Think this loop I did 1.5l-2liters of course with only one bottle


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Is too much of the concentrate or not enough of the concentrate in a loop harmful or not protective enough?
> 
> Think this loop I did 1.5l-2liters of course with only one bottle


Assuming we're still talking about X1 too much might increase temps ever so slightly but shouldn't have any other ill effects, having too little may decrease the effectiveness of it's corrosion inhibitors, and if you over dilute it WAY too much you might compromise it's anti microbial attributes. If I recall correctly one bottle makes 2 liters so you shouldn't have issues other than some ever so slightly increased thermals if you're down to the 1.5l areas.


----------



## Noviets

Have a couple questions Mayhem. I have the X1 Emerald Green UV (and a couple cold cathode UV bars to make them look sexy as hell).

Do I first run water though the loop on first assembly for leak testing/rinsing?

Then drain and fill with the X1 mix?

Or would it just be okay to run water through each part seperately? Pure water or tap? hot or cold? I know rads are supposed to be flushed with hot water to break up any flux residue etc, is that the same for everything?

I'm worried that I'll have debris in my loop, as everything I'm running is totally clear (except the fittings and rads obv).

What's your recommended method?

(Takes about 10-14 days for a bottle of the X1 Concentrate to get here, so trying not to waste any of the bottle in the case that I need more)

I have one bottle for a 360x45 and a 240x60


----------



## bigbangSG

what will happen if i add Xt-1 into my premixed x-1


----------



## Mayhem

Do not Mix XT-1 and X1 together they will eventually break down and create gunking in your loop given the right environment. They are both totally different products ........

If changing from one product to another (liquids) its always best to Flush or Clean the loop to the best of your ability. If you can hand clean the blocks then do that if not and you would like to clean in situ then its normally best to run tap water though first to push out all the old stuff, then use a vinegar rinse, then use Bi Carb to flush out, followed by a final DI water rinse. This whole process should at least take 1/2 a day to a full day to do so that you make sure everything is flushed out of your loop. Never skimp on cleaning your loop as one day you may regret it.

I have a full system that needs cleaning here that we will be doing a vid using Blitz on, how ever the process will be the same using vinegar and bi carb. Once its completed and i get time ill post it up.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> stumbled across that redraider drama... lol... saw that video... LOL.
> 
> *Still not convinced I want to run acid through my entire system*, seems like such a PITA. So many nooks & crannies, not sure how you would get it all out, even w/ the sodium bath.


And you are right in saying that,Acids are not recommended for cleaning any WC gear. Niko at EK and Shoggy at AquaC have both publicly stated acid should not be used to clean any of their products. I agree with them on this,there is nothing in the manufacture that requires acids to remove. Cutting fluid from the blocks and tops and rad flux are both water soluble.
Acids strip the copper of protective oxide layers that inhibit corrosion.

My 2c is that its a lot of drama for a coolant....If you are really bothered then hot water and a ultrasonic clean will do you right. Preserve the oxide layer and get sparkly rads.

In other news....over 2 years now with DI and Micks biocide,no growth,no smell and all my crap is intact with just top offs every 6 months.....

Im not even sure I washed the rads first either.


----------



## 15goudreau

Well we aren't advising people put HCl into their loop. We are simply saying a diluted mix of vinegar and water flush / shake for less than 20 minutes and then neutralizing with Sodium Bicarbonate so that you have a neutral loop, that may be cleaner than if you just did a water flush. If you don't want to chance your radiators protective layering than go for it. Mix in your dye and see what happens over the next two years. If you have the same colour in which you started with great, that's awesome. If not, then I would look into Mick's Blitz cleaning solution or your own DIY solution and then replace your coolant. I am highly skeptical of claims that say that something in pH 6 is going to remove all protective layers on copper in less than an hour, especially when you are going to neutralize it with a base directly after the fact. But that's just my









Edit: clarification


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Well we aren't advising people put HCl into their loop. We are simply saying a diluted mix of vinegar and water flush / shake for less than 20 minutes and then neutralizing with Sodium Bicarbonate so that you have a neutral loop, that may be cleaner than if you just did a water flush. If you don't want to chance your radiators protective layering than go for it. Mix in your dye and see what happens over the next two years. If you have the same colour in which you started with great, that's awesome. If not, then I would look into Mick's Blitz cleaning solution or your own DIY solution and then replace your coolant. I am highly skeptical of claims that say that something in pH 6 is going to remove all protective layers on copper in less than an hour, especially when you are going to neutralize it with a base directly after the fact. But that's just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: clarification


Micks coolant is the only one that requires these steps.
Dont not assume that all coolants require these steps,they very much dont.

Why do you think that Ph is the only thing to worry about? Acetic acid and copper produce copper acetate,is that going to just wash out? Or is it just going to form a salt layer that the bicarb wont touch?
There is more chemistry than Ph going on....
Micks Blitz kit uses Phosphoric,not Acetic,acid. Why do you think that is?

Are you going to risk damaging your rads (£60) v a coolant (£15-£30)?

Vinegar is around Ph2 undiluted,if its Ph 6 diluted then why use it in the first place?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Micks coolant is the only one that requires these steps.
> Dont not assume that all coolants require these steps,they very much dont.
> 
> Why do you think that Ph is the only thing to worry about? Acetic acid and copper produce copper acetate,is that going to just wash out? Or is it just going to form a salt layer that the bicarb wont touch?
> There is more chemistry than Ph going on....
> Micks Blitz kit uses Phosphoric,not Acetic,acid. Why do you think that is?
> 
> Are you going to risk damaging your rads (£60) v a coolant (£15-£30)?
> 
> Vinegar is around Ph2 undiluted,if its Ph 6 diluted then why use it in the first place?


Pastel is the only one that "Requires" these steps, most other coolants aren't nanofluids. Moreover I've definitely seen loops that were flushed thoroughly with distilled then filled with EK EKoolant Red turn crap stain brown, so it's definitely not mayhems exclusive, the fact of the matter is there isn't much other sizable groups of users for other coolants at least not that I've seen here on OCN other than the DI fanboat. Less publicity means the issues aren't as well known but I've definitely seen it multiple times with other coolants. For the most part these "issues" only happen too manufacturers that don't properly clean their rads in house. It's been stated that rather than pointing fingers and saying don't use those hardware brands Mayhems would just deved/released Blitz with an advised prereq to altogether eliminate the issues so the coolants can't be blamed for crap in the rads, etc, wacking out the coolant. I can agree with the vinegar thing, generally I stick to lemon juice for my flushes. Acetic acid is pretty nasty stuff, poor a high concentration of it on someones face on a hot day and it'll burn their face off with chem burns while it ignites burning your face off with fire as well. Cool to see in an action movie, but pretty much an EMTs worst nightmare.


----------



## pennover

So I'm going with Mayhems X1 UV concentrate for my first wc build. Case will be the Caselabs SMA8 in white, but I'm having problems deciding on which color I should go with









MB is black, EK CSQ blocks, fittings are chromatized. This will be my first white case. Which color would recommend?


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Micks coolant is the only one that requires these steps.
> Dont not assume that all coolants require these steps,they very much dont.
> 
> Why do you think that Ph is the only thing to worry about? Acetic acid and copper produce copper acetate,is that going to just wash out? Or is it just going to form a salt layer that the bicarb wont touch?
> There is more chemistry than Ph going on....
> Micks Blitz kit uses Phosphoric,not Acetic,acid. Why do you think that is?
> 
> Are you going to risk damaging your rads (£60) v a coolant (£15-£30)?
> 
> Vinegar is around Ph2 undiluted,if its Ph 6 diluted then why use it in the first place?
> 
> 
> 
> Pastel is the only one that "Requires" these steps, most other coolants aren't nanofluids. Moreover I've definitely seen loops that were flushed thoroughly with distilled then filled with EK EKoolant Red turn crap stain brown, so it's definitely not mayhems exclusive, the fact of the matter is there isn't much other sizable groups of users for other coolants at least not that I've seen here on OCN other than the DI fanboat. Less publicity means the issues aren't as well known but I've definitely seen it multiple times with other coolants. For the most part these "issues" only happen too manufacturers that don't properly clean their rads in house. It's been stated that rather than pointing fingers and saying don't use those hardware brands Mayhems would just deved/released Blitz with an advised prereq to altogether eliminate the issues so the coolants can't be blamed for crap in the rads, etc, wacking out the coolant. I can agree with the vinegar thing, generally I stick to lemon juice for my flushes. Acetic acid is pretty nasty stuff, poor a high concentration of it on someones face on a hot day and it'll burn their face off with chem burns while it ignites burning your face off with fire as well. Cool to see in an action movie, but pretty much an EMTs worst nightmare.
Click to expand...

What rad brands are recommended? I'm running swiftech and Ek hope that will suffice. We need all these processes on the front page of this club. That way the same question isn't asked over and over again.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> So I'm going with Mayhems X1 UV concentrate for my first wc build. Case will be the Caselabs SMA8 in white, but I'm having problems deciding on which color I should go with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MB is black, EK CSQ blocks, fittings are chromatized. This will be my first white case. Which color would recommend?


I have a Black MB and white Corsair 600T and currently setting up to run the Ice White coolant.
In the past I have used EK Coolant in Clear tubing and Straight Distilled water in Blue tubing the only constant is change.


----------



## pennover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> I have a Black MB and white Corsair 600T and currently setting up to run the Ice White coolant.
> In the past I have used EK Coolant in Clear tubing and Straight Distilled water in Blue tubing the only constant is change.


So you're saying I should just pick any color because I'm gonna get sick of it eventually anyway








That's probably true, still can't decide though.. guess I'm gonna resort to flipping a coin if no other idea comes to mind soon.


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> So you're saying I should just pick any color because I'm gonna get sick of it eventually anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's probably true, still can't decide though.. guess I'm gonna resort to flipping a coin if no other idea comes to mind soon.


You may pick a color and never want to change it I on the other hand change things up every six to nine months just to be different.
That is the nature of water cooling for me.

With all of the dye choices from Mayhems you will always be able to change should the need arise


----------



## pennover

Ok, so I've read the X1 FAQ on the first page and also the guides on mayhem's site, but I'm still unsure about a few things:

1. UV dyes do not have a color under normal light, right? So I would have to mix them with normal dyes?

2. Can you freely mix UV & non-UV dyes together with your clear X1 coolant?

3. How many drops of these dyes can you freely mix together before you get a permanent staining problem?

4. Can you get rid of the stain from red/pink dyes, if you change your coolant more frequently than in the mentioned nine months period? Will I have an exaggerated problem when using clear plexi EK CSQ blocks?

5. How many drops of dye can I get out of a 15ml bottle?

6. How long can you hoard the dyes / X1 coolants before use?

Thanks!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Ok, so I've read the X1 FAQ on the first page and also the guides on mayhem's site, but I'm still unsure about a few things:
> 
> 1. UV dyes do not have a color under normal light, right? So I would have to mix them with normal dyes?
> 
> 2. Can you freely mix UV & non-UV dyes together with your clear X1 coolant?
> 
> 3. How many drops of these dyes can you freely mix together before you get a permanent staining problem?
> 
> 4. Can you get rid of the stain from red/pink dyes, if you change your coolant more frequently than in the mentioned nine months period? Will I have an exaggerated problem when using clear plexi EK CSQ blocks?
> 
> 5. How many drops of dye can I get out of a 15ml bottle?
> 
> 6. How long can you hoard the dyes / X1 coolants before use?
> 
> Thanks!


1. If you want them to have a vibrant color without UV light, I'd recommend it
2. yep, however, depending on mix, it can get ugly, lol
3. UV dyes are pretty bad about staining, especially UV Pink. There is no set amount of dye or time in system that causes staining
4. Sometimes you can clean out the staining by hand.
5. I've read a drop is ~0.065 ml, so 15ml/0.065 ml per drop = roughly 230 drops
6. Years if stored properly (cool dark place in their bottles)


----------



## gdubc

Cool to see Mayhems Pastel on the shelf at my local microcenter! They really surprise me sometimes. Makes it easy to throw my wallet at them, lol!


----------



## pennover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 3. UV dyes are pretty bad about staining, especially UV Pink. There is no set amount of dye or time in system that causes staining
> 4. Sometimes you can clean out the staining by hand.


Alrighty, thanks cyphon! By hand you mean scrubbing, right








How many drops of UV red/pink per liter would you consider "safe" in order to avoid staining?

PS: Any chance someone got any pics of a permanently stained block resp. I would like to know if they'd still be usable?


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Cool to see Mayhems Pastel on the shelf at my local microcenter! They really surprise me sometimes. Makes it easy to throw my wallet at them, lol!


Here in Dallas, TX the Microcenter has quite a few WC parts in stock.
My wallet knows this well.


----------



## DarthBaggins

And Microcenter has them highly over priced (on alot of the fittings and blocks)


----------



## Mayhem

@pennover It matters not how much uv pink dye you use . It stains full stop. No ifs, no buts, You can use 1 drop it will stain, you can use 10 drops it will stain, you cannot stop staining on UV pink or any so called UV Red dye or coolant.


----------



## gdubc

21.99 at my microcenter isn't too bad to just be able to pick some up. Plus they gotta make up the $$ from those $200 4770ks somewhere, lol.


----------



## Dragonsyph

Why is x1 half the price of pastel colors?

Im thinking pastel blue berry with clear uv blue dye.


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> 21.99 at my microcenter isn't too bad to just be able to pick some up. Plus they gotta make up the $$ from those $200 4770ks somewhere, lol.


Go to any online WC shop and price a bottle shipped

This example from PCS

Sub-Total: $19.95
FedEx (Ground Home Delivery (3 days)): $15.83
Total: $35.78

Looks like a great price now!!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> Go to any online WC shop and price a bottle shipped
> 
> This example from PCS
> 
> Sub-Total: $19.95
> FedEx (Ground Home Delivery (3 days)): $15.83
> Total: $35.78
> 
> Looks like a great price now!!


Yeah, but who would place an order for a single bottle and nothing else? All my orders are like $500+, lol. Then the shipping doesn't hurt as bad.


----------



## Dragonsyph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> Go to any online WC shop and price a bottle shipped
> 
> This example from PCS
> 
> Sub-Total: $19.95
> FedEx (Ground Home Delivery (3 days)): $15.83
> Total: $35.78
> 
> Looks like a great price now!!


Why would anyone get express 3 day shipping for a 20 dollar item?.

5 day ground is 3 dollars for that package size.


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yeah, but who would place an order for a single bottle and nothing else? All my orders are like $500+, lol. Then the shipping doesn't hurt as bad.
> 
> *When you have bought everything and want to change colors you do*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragonsyph*
> 
> Why would anyone get express 3 day shipping for a 20 dollar item?.
> 
> 5 day ground is 3 dollars for that package size.


Cheapest shipping method that Performance PC offers and they do not charge actual cost


----------



## Dragonsyph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> Cheapest shipping method that Performance PC offers and they do not charge actual cost


Performance PC does UPS and US Priority Mail with Delivery Confirmation
And they do have 5 day Fedex.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragonsyph*
> 
> Why would anyone get express 3 day shipping for a 20 dollar item?.
> 
> 5 day ground is 3 dollars for that package size.


Or you can be spoiled like me & get $9 overnight on pretty much anything smaller than a caselabs STH-10. Just one of the many benefits of living in Florida.


----------



## Dragonsyph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Or you can be spoiled like me & get $9 overnight on pretty much anything smaller than a caselabs STH-10. Just one of the many benefits of living in Florida.


LOL must be nice.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Or you can be spoiled like me & get $9 overnight on pretty much anything smaller than a caselabs STH-10. Just one of the many benefits of living in Florida.


Yeah that's nice...though I get FCPU in 2days usually and PPCs in 3days and sometimes 2days, so not terrible lol


----------



## Dragonsyph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah that's nice...though I get FCPU in 2days usually and PPCs in 3days and sometimes 2days, so not terrible lol


LOL im jelly of you guys. Nothing like buying some new stuff and having to wait for ever. Checking the tracking numbers all the time. HAHAHA


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Or you can be spoiled like me & get $9 overnight on pretty much anything smaller than a caselabs STH-10. *The one and only benefit of living in Florida*.


Fixed that for ya.


----------



## skupples

Iv'e lived in Norcal, but iv'e always felt more @ home in south Florida.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragonsyph*
> 
> LOL im jelly of you guys. Nothing like buying some new stuff and having to wait for ever. Checking the tracking numbers all the time. HAHAHA


It is a known fact that hitting refresh every 3-5 minutes makes the couriers deliver faster


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It is a known fact that hitting refresh every 3-5 minutes makes the couriers deliver faster


Or, if your skupples, it causes the delivery truck to burst into flames.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Iv'e lived in Norcal, but iv'e always felt more @ home in south Florida.


Truth be told, I despise komifornia, and wish I was back in Arizona.


----------



## Dragonsyph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It is a known fact that hitting refresh every 3-5 minutes makes the couriers deliver faster


hahahahahaaha


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragonsyph*
> 
> Performance PC does UPS and US Priority Mail with Delivery Confirmation
> And they do have 5 day Fedex.


Those were not an option when I checked.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> Here in Dallas, TX the Microcenter has quite a few WC parts in stock.
> My wallet knows this well.


Has the Richardson Microcenter gotten any new stock of Mayhems Pastel? I went there a few weeks ago and they only had one bottle left of pastel Ice White. Their prices are actually reasonable on Mayhems products, even factoring in tax. Actually, in some cases, it can be cheaper than FCPU/PPCs.

Probably gonna go over there this coming Monday when I usually make a trip over to Richardson.

@Mayhem You guys totally need to make Microcenter a direct distributor for your products imo ! They are like the last bastion of WC parts from a national retailer in the USA. And since WC has been getting a bit more popular lately; they've been revamping their custom WC sections in many of their stores with newer products (which wasn't the case a year ago).


----------



## giltyler

Monday they had Pastel Ice White and Aurora Red and Blue several bottles of each

I am not sure but they may be buying some products from FCPU like they used to buy from Danger Den
Some of their parts have FCPU part numbers

WC manufactures should try and help Microcenter be a viable WC supply.


----------



## pennover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @pennover It matters not how much uv pink dye you use . It stains full stop. No ifs, no buts, You can use 1 drop it will stain, you can use 10 drops it will stain, you cannot stop staining on UV pink or any so called UV Red dye or coolant.


Ok, thanks Mayhem!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> What rad brands are recommended? I'm running swiftech and Ek hope that will suffice. We need all these processes on the front page of this club. That way the same question isn't asked over and over again.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I swear by Mayhems X1, haven't used any other concentrates or premixes other than Primochills various premixes and I'll never touch those crap slushies again. First rule of retail, never recommend something you don't have personal experience in, so with that I'll say go X1.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Ok, so I've read the X1 FAQ on the first page and also the guides on mayhem's site, but I'm still unsure about a few things:
> 
> 1. UV dyes do not have a color under normal light, right? So I would have to mix them with normal dyes?
> 
> 2. Can you freely mix UV & non-UV dyes together with your clear X1 coolant?
> 
> 3. How many drops of these dyes can you freely mix together before you get a permanent staining problem?
> 
> 4. Can you get rid of the stain from red/pink dyes, if you change your coolant more frequently than in the mentioned nine months period? Will I have an exaggerated problem when using clear plexi EK CSQ blocks?
> 
> 5. How many drops of dye can I get out of a 15ml bottle?
> 
> 6. How long can you hoard the dyes / X1 coolants before use?
> 
> Thanks!


1: Most UV dyes have a default color with the exception of invisible UV blue, but it's recommended mixing them with normal dyes as their default colors aren't that vibrant.

2: Yup yup yup

3: N/A, it has less to do with how much dye and more to do with which dye. UV pink and deep blue seem to be more prone to staining. UV red doesn't exist, it's red dye with UV pink dye, so same rule here.

4: It's more prominent in flex tubing, in my experience acrylic doesn't stain very easily.

5: A lot, depends on the size of your drops. I'd say maybe 3-5 drops per ml. I don't use the drop method personally, I just spray till I get the color I want.







Then again I'm not trying to match it to the other hardware.

6: Two year shelf life for the concentrates, not sure if it's changed with the premixes but I'd guess it's the same. After you fill the loop you should be good for one - two years before you need to drain/refill.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragonsyph*
> 
> Why is x1 half the price of pastel colors?


It's cheaper to manufacture. Pastel is a nanofluid meaning it has nanopowders held in suspension within the fluid. X1 is just a vegi extract based coolant. Less raw materials, less manu, less money.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Has the Richardson Microcenter gotten any new stock of Mayhems Pastel? I went there a few weeks ago and they only had one bottle left of pastel Ice White. Their prices are actually reasonable on Mayhems products, even factoring in tax. Actually, in some cases, it can be cheaper than FCPU/PPCs.
> 
> Probably gonna go over there this coming Monday when I usually make a trip over to Richardson.
> 
> @Mayhem
> You guys totally need to make Microcenter a direct distributor for your products imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! They are like the last bastion of WC parts from a national retailer in the USA. And since WC has been getting a bit more popular lately; they've been revamping their custom WC sections in many of their stores with newer products (which wasn't the case a year ago).


I bought an Apogee Drive II from there listed as a AMD block, got home and it was an intel block. Went back to return it, and I sat there for literally over two hours waiting for them to process the return. Never again


----------



## Blackops_2

I've planned on pastel and have it ordered actually I just wanted to be thoroughly sure how to go about cleaning my new parts and used parts before getting it all going so the fluid doesn't change color on me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yeah, but who would place an order for a single bottle and nothing else? All my orders are like $500+, lol. Then the shipping doesn't hurt as bad.


Same so far lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Fixed that for ya.


Thoroughly agreed..


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragonsyph*
> 
> Why is x1 half the price of pastel colors?
> 
> Im thinking pastel blue berry with clear uv blue dye.


X1 takes 5 min to make and is only take 5 products to make it . Pastel is a nano coolant and takes a while to make, have you ever tried grinding down a rock into nano powder then adding all the chemicals and suspending it and making it float in water with many different chemicals and then adding more chemicals to help prevent your metals all rotting or corroding ...... If you can do it cheaper then make it your self









OFC you can allways buy 1000ml from say someware like this -> http://www.us-nano.com/inc/sdetail/632 which wont protect your system but at least its the correct size.


----------



## Mayhem

BTW i didnt know we supply Microcenter. |All i know is we supply PPC who our main distributor in the USA.


----------



## Jeronbernal

is it safe to mix x1 with pastel? thanks


----------



## RpeeKooz

Hey guys I'm just about to use mayhems pastel red for the first time.I have a few questions. I am using acrylic tube from primochill. Once I wash the tubes out I got given sysprep with my normal tube. Is it safe to run that through acrylic before I fill it up with mayhems?
Second is I have a flow meter from primochill is the pastel red to thick for the flow meter and would I be able to notice it spinning or is it a waste of time?

Cheers


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> BTW i didnt know we supply Microcenter. |All i know is we supply PPC who our main distributor in the USA.


Microcenter has been buying from FrozenCPU to stock a fair portion of their WCing products. Some of which includes your products. Maybe contact them about having them as an alternative distributor. I'm sure they would be interested since they wouldn't have to lose profits from the upcharge of ordering from FCPU.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> Hey guys I'm just about to use mayhems pastel red for the first time.I have a few questions. I am using acrylic tube from primochill. Once I wash the tubes out I got given sysprep with my normal tube. Is it safe to run that through acrylic before I fill it up with mayhems?
> Second is I have a flow meter from primochill is the pastel red to thick for the flow meter and would I be able to notice it spinning or is it a waste of time?
> 
> Cheers


I wouldn't even use sysprep with acrylic tubing. Since you're using pastel I would do a lemon juice/water flush if you have new radiators, and a bicarb flush to neutralize it all. Pastel has been known to clog low end mechanical flowmeters. It isn't that it's too thick for the flowmeter to spin, it's that the nanoparticles get stuck in the bearing. I would either get a Koolance inline flow meter, or just drop the flowmeter. Just my


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> BTW i didnt know we supply Microcenter. |All i know is we supply PPC who our main distributor in the USA.


They don't have it at my local micro center. I think it is up to their managers to stock their wc sections in the stores as the last few times I have been there their stock has radically changed between visits and does not reflect their website.

They went from all XSPC and Bitspower to XSPC, EK, Bitspower, monsoon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Microcenter has been buying from FrozenCPU to stock a fair portion of their WCing products. Some of which includes your products. Maybe contact them about having them as an alternative distributor. I'm sure they would be interested since they wouldn't have to lose profits from the upcharge of ordering from FCPU.


Sort of supports comment above. Not sure if really makes sense for them to do that unless they have a deal with fcpu. They'd have to mark it up over what fcpu already does which tends to be on the high side as it is. At that point they are preying on the uninformed...which none of the staff I've talked to there have known much about wc in the first place...like the blind leading the blind. Although not sure how that varies from their usual business model. (Last time I as in there the sales guy couldn't figure out that the guy needed DDR2 for his old machine running XP when the DDR3 the guy had bought, didn't fit his MB...died a little inside that day
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> is it safe to mix x1 with pastel? thanks


Why would you do this in the first place???????

They have the same inhibitors in there, so your ratios would have to go back to what they normally should be mixing with water or else you could have issues. Since the mix ratios are different, you'd have to so some calculations to make sure you get it right.

Still, not sure why'd you do this since a gallon of DI water is usually like $2 and is what you need for the mix. If you are thinking color, just buy some dye and dye your correctly mixed fluid and call it a day


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> is it safe to mix x1 with pastel? thanks


It's possible but ill advised, the particles in the pastel will fall out of suspension faster due to the change in coolant density.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> They have the same inhibitors in there, so your ratios would have to go back to what they normally should be mixing with water or else you could have issues. Since the mix ratios are different, you'd have to so some calculations to make sure you get it right.
> 
> Still, not sure why'd you do this since a gallon of DI water is usually like $2 and is what you need for the mix. If you are thinking color, just buy some dye and dye your correctly mixed fluid and call it a day


I recall Mick advising to mix 5% X1 premix to 95% pastel mix for use with aluminum due to X1 having stronger corrosion inhibitors so one can assume they have different liquids at their core. Still, I'd advise against mixing them. You don't have a spreadsheet infront of you telling you the nano particle buoyancy and the densities of both liquid bases so you could end up having to take a toothbrush to every little nook and cranny if you get a bad ratio causing particles to fall out of suspension.


----------



## BradleyW

What's the best way to clean a copper Rad to ensure all algae and chemicals are completely destroyed?
Thank you.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> What's the *best* way to clean a copper Rad to ensure all algae and chemicals are completely destroyed?
> Thank you.


Mayhems Blits Cleaning kit.









If you're cheap you can always go with the 1 part lemon juice 4 parts water, then a basic bicarb which should work fine but it's not the *best*.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> What's the *best* way to clean a copper Rad to ensure all algae and chemicals are completely destroyed?
> Thank you.


Ultrasonic and an organic solvent flush,cellulose thinner or Trichloroethylene would work but careful of the paint.

In the real world,hot water and a biocide.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Mayhems Blits Cleaning kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're cheap you can always go with the 1 part lemon juice 4 parts water, then a basic bicarb which should work fine but it's not the *best*.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ultrasonic and an organic solvent flush,cellulose thinner or Trichloroethylene would work but careful of the paint.
> 
> In the real world,hot water and a biocide.


Awesome thanks! +1

As for the GPU's and CPU block? (Copper / Acrylic) , (Copper / Acetal).


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Awesome thanks! +1
> 
> As for the GPU's and CPU block? (Copper / Acrylic) , (Copper / Acetal).


Don't bother flushing them with the cleaning agent (lemon juice or Blits Part 1), really the only thing you /should/ do to clean them is dishsoap and a soft bristle toothbrush. Maybe a little brasso if you want them to shine for a transparent liquid. Then the bicarb through the entire loop.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Don't bother flushing them with the cleaning agent (lemon juice or Blits Part 1), really the only thing you /should/ do to clean them is dishsoap and a soft bristle toothbrush. Maybe a little brasso if you want them to shine for a transparent liquid. Then the bicarb through the entire loop.


Let's say I want to clean them without dismantling the blocks. (I know......)
FYI, I've also have White Vinegar.

Thank you.


----------



## PCModderMike

Using Mayhems pastel blue berry (darkened slightly with Mayhems dark blue dye) for my latest build...I missed using pastel.


----------



## 15goudreau

Very nice mike!


----------



## Jeronbernal

Reason I ask about mixing x1 and pastel is because I just finished my tubing and filled it with x1 red, and don't really like the color as much as I liked it white, I was thinking about just doing like 4 distilled water flushes through the loop, to get as much out of the radiator, then toss pastel in once it was clear enough, think it'll be safe or fine?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Very nice mike!


Thanks


----------



## BradleyW

There seems to be very mixed opinions when it comes to cleaning loops. Can anyone else input? Thank you.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> There seems to be very mixed opinions when it comes to cleaning loops. Can anyone else input? Thank you.


+1 i'm curious as well


----------



## Dragonsyph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Using Mayhems pastel blue berry (darkened slightly with Mayhems dark blue dye) for my latest build...I missed using pastel.


Now that is SEXY.


----------



## BradleyW

I want to know why Acidic products are recommended when cleaning, yet anything acidic harms to natural protective film on copper.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> There seems to be very mixed opinions when it comes to cleaning loops. Can anyone else input? Thank you.


All I've ever done is flush through with hot water from my kitchen tap, Give the rads & blocks a good old fashion shake wash through with some more hot water & finally give things a quick wash through with some distilled water & that's it..... I've been using Mayhems Pastels, Aurora's & the X1 clear (with & without) Mayhems dyes in for nigh on five years now(in fact I got my main PC has had the X1 with dye in the two loops for three years now & still looking crystal clear)... I've never had any discoloration of fluids So Far!!..









N.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I want to know why Acidic products are recommended when cleaning, yet anything acidic harms to natural protective film on copper.


They are not recommended at all.

Not by me nor manufacturers


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are not recommended at all.
> 
> Not by me nor manufacturers


I'm referring to lemon juice and white vinegar.
EK recommend this.
Edit: When will Specialtech be getting some 1/2" ID Primochill clear tubing?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> All I've ever done is flush through with hot water from my kitchen tap, Give the rads & blocks a good old fashion shake wash through with some more hot water & finally give things a quick wash through with some distilled water & that's it..... I've been using Mayhems Pastels, Aurora's & the X1 clear (with & without) Mayhems dyes in for nigh on five years now(in fact I got my main PC has had the X1 with dye in the two loops for three years now & still looking crystal clear)... I've never had any discoloration of fluids So Far!!..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> N.


+1


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> All I've ever done is flush through with hot water from my kitchen tap, Give the rads & blocks a good old fashion shake wash through with some more hot water & finally give things a quick wash through with some distilled water & that's it..... I've been using Mayhems Pastels, Aurora's & the X1 clear (with & without) Mayhems dyes in for nigh on five years now(in fact I got my main PC has had the X1 with dye in the two loops for three years now & still looking crystal clear)... I've never had any discoloration of fluids So Far!!..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> N.


Interesting, how long have you run your pastels? This makes me think i just should just do a Bicarb wash on my GPU block, because it was used with distilled + biocide, then just use your method for the new rads and blocks. I thought i had read of some people running into problems when just flushing with water (distilled or tap). I guess it's radiator dependent?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are not recommended at all.
> 
> Not by me nor manufacturers
> 
> 
> 
> I'm referring to lemon juice and white vinegar.
> *EK recommend this.*
> Edit: When will Specialtech be getting some 1/2" ID Primochill clear tubing?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> All I've ever done is flush through with hot water from my kitchen tap, Give the rads & blocks a good old fashion shake wash through with some more hot water & finally give things a quick wash through with some distilled water & that's it..... I've been using Mayhems Pastels, Aurora's & the X1 clear (with & without) Mayhems dyes in for nigh on five years now(in fact I got my main PC has had the X1 with dye in the two loops for three years now & still looking crystal clear)... I've never had any discoloration of fluids So Far!!..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> N.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> +1
Click to expand...

For cleaning blocks,not rads.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For cleaning blocks,not rads.


Blocks are copper also........ Some plated, some not. And the EK recommendation was for all of their blocks.....


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Reason I ask about mixing x1 and pastel is because I just finished my tubing and filled it with x1 red, and don't really like the color as much as I liked it white, I was thinking about just doing like 4 distilled water flushes through the loop, to get as much out of the radiator, then toss pastel in once it was clear enough, think it'll be safe or fine?


Anyone?


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Blocks are copper also........ Some plated, some not. And the EK recommendation was for all of their blocks.....


Yes this is what I was getting at.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Anyone?


It won't be an issue, your not adding x1 to it, your changing out the fluid, so just give it a couple of good flushes and commence!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For cleaning blocks,not rads.
> 
> 
> 
> Blocks are copper also........ Some plated, some not. And the EK recommendation was for all of their blocks.....
Click to expand...

The actual recommendation is for tarnished blocks,not loop prep nor flushing.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The actual recommendation is for tarnished blocks,not loop prep nor flushing.


I see, thank you!


----------



## luciddreamer124

Some Mayhems pastel royal blue in "Project Magis"


----------



## Jeronbernal

Lucid, what fans are those? Btw real nice build


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Lucid, what fans are those? Btw real nice build


They are Noiseblocker multi-frame M12-S2's (painted blue and white)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24644


----------



## Jeronbernal

How would you say they were vs corsair sp120 high performance? For radiators of course, reason I'm asking is I saw a Mdpc build use them also, I like how they're shaped


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> How would you say they were vs corsair sp120 high performance? For radiators of course, reason I'm asking is I saw a Mdpc build use them also, I like how they're shaped


I've never used corsair high performance ones, only the quiet editions. The Noiseblockers are going to be like 10x quieter than the high performance corsair fans. They probably won't perform quite as well though (but not by much).

They're great fans.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Some Mayhems pastel royal blue in "Project Magis"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sigh, I swear that if you don't enter next month's MOTM, I'm totally going to nominate your build. Your build is computer porn on the level of Singularity Computers' builds.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Sigh, I swear that if you don't enter next month's MOTM, I'm totally going to nominate your build. Your build is computer porn on the level of Singularity Computers' builds.


Wow. Thank you









I don't even know how or when I would go about doing that


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Alrighty, thanks cyphon! By hand you mean scrubbing, right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many drops of UV red/pink per liter would you consider "safe" in order to avoid staining?
> 
> PS: Any chance someone got any pics of a permanently stained block resp. I would like to know if they'd still be usable?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @pennover It matters not how much uv pink dye you use . It stains full stop. No ifs, no buts, You can use 1 drop it will stain, you can use 10 drops it will stain, you cannot stop staining on UV pink or any so called UV Red dye or coolant.


I know it's been answered many times, UV red coolant/dye will have staining, regular red coolant/dye will not have staining correct?

Just filled my loop with Mayhems Pastel Red and looking forward to using UV White/blue dye in it, want to make sure I am not re-filling my loop next week, this stuff isn't cheap!


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> I know it's been answered many times, UV red coolant/dye will have staining, regular red coolant/dye will not have staining correct?
> 
> Just filled my loop with Mayhems Pastel Red and looking forward to using UV White/blue dye in it, want to make sure I am not re-filling my loop next week, this stuff isn't cheap!


I believe Mick stated a couple pages back that all UV dyes stain, red/pink being the worst. IIRC all dyes stain to some extent over time.

Q: Do dyes stain water cooling systems?
A: Yes they do. Dye is made to stain that's why it has been used for thousands of years to stain clothing and many other products. Any dye introduced into a system will cause staining over a time period and some faster than others. UV Pink is the worst at doing this and is used to make Red UV active as Red is not normally UV active. The only product out there that will never stain is UV Clear Blue as this is actually not a dye. The less dye you use in the system the less staining you will get.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club#post_17799380


----------



## peterpan

Can other brands dye be mix with pastel or can I only use mayhems


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterpan*
> 
> Can other brands dye be mix with pastel or can I only use mayhems


I would recommend that only the Mayhems dyes be used with Mayhems produced coolants or to color plain distilled since it was designed to work with their coolants specifically.

I would say the same about other dyes from other makers and their respective coolants.

All coolants are different with different ingredients used to make them, and you could have an adverse reaction from mixing different makers products.


----------



## peterpan

Great thanks for the info


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterpan*
> 
> Great thanks for the info










my pleasure.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Let's say I want to clean them without dismantling the blocks. (I know......)
> FYI, I've also got a tone of White Vinegar.
> Also how should I mix the bicarb? Pour the power into the rad and fill with water from the other side? Is it safe to blocks all the inlets and outlets with blanking plugs when the bicarb is reacting inside the rad (Since it will expand)?
> 
> Thank you.


I'd emphasize lemon juice over vinegar if either of the blocks are plated. Were I you I'd really just take a toothbrush to the blocks, there's no point to clean em with a solvent since you can actually manually clean them. As to the bicarb, absolutely no danger. Personally I just set up my loop by the sink and actually run it with the pump while flushing. Much easier
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> There seems to be very mixed opinions when it comes to cleaning loops. Can anyone else input? Thank you.


It's always going to be a controversy. A mild acid will strip all the crap out of your rad, but also strip the copper patina from the rad. Copper patina is a naturally occurring tarnish that protects the copper underneath from oxidizing. I'd recommend flushing rads once with an organic solvent once preferably when you first get them to get all the flux and stuff out. Yes flux is water soluble but let's be realistic here people do Distilled flushes all the time and their coolants still get messed up from flux. It's a time thing, how long will it take with a solvent vs how long it will take with pure distilled. I'd keep it out of your blocks though, only thing you should do for those is a bit of elbow grease.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I want to know why Acidic products are recommended when cleaning, yet anything acidic harms to natural protective film on copper.


See post above
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I would recommend that only the Mayhems dyes be used with Mayhems produced coolants or to color plain distilled since it was designed to work with their coolants specifically.
> 
> I would say the same about other dyes from other makers and their respective coolants.
> 
> All coolants are different with different ingredients used to make them, and you could have an adverse reaction from mixing different makers products.


So long as the dyes don't wack out the pH I'd say it should be fine. Just make sure there dyes and not primchill's dye bombs that have other crap in them as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterpan*
> 
> Can other brands dye be mix with pastel or can I only use mayhems


If there's another companies dye that looks amazing and mayhems doesn't offer it I'd say it's worth a shot, if mayhems offers it I'd say better safe than sorry.


----------



## Blackops_2

So to clean radiators a good solvent shake, Bicarb shake, then distilled shake should suffice? And as for new blocks just flush with distilled or clean with soap/toothbrush then flush with bicarb?

I also have a used block that has been run with distilled + biocide, i believe Mick told me a simple bicarb flush would be fine.

What strength organic solvent are we talking about?


----------



## midnightgypsy

The same stuff you would use to clean a coffee pot. Lemon juice and vinegar.... The recipe isn't an exact science... Then rinse with bicarb( baking soda) to neutaslized the lemon mix... ie... 1 teaspoon of baking soda to a liter of DI water....


----------



## Blackops_2

I know what Bicarb is







I wanted to be reassured of what i needed and how i was going to do things, as do some others, hence both Bradley and I asking for different opinions. I know it's not necessarily exact science, (though to some extent that's exactly what it is) i was asking the strength of solvent because if needed or preferable i could go beyond lemon juice or vinegar. I want to be 100% sure that everything is clean and ready to go before the loop is up and running, that way i'm not worried about pastel discoloration. What i'll more than likely end up doing is waiting on Mayhem's blitz kit, how long it takes to arrive in the U.S. is another thing.

But as pointed out earlier by Nornam people's methods vary and his has worked for him just using tap water and distilled.


----------



## Jimhans1

The blitz kits Mayhems said had landed in the US, but the paperwork to get through customs is what was holding it back if I remember correctly. The Blitz kits are only gonna be available through Performance-PCS.com so you might call them and ask if you could be notified of arrival or just keep looking at the "new products" tab they have in the left hand column of their website, it gets updated as soon as the product is added!!


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd emphasize lemon juice over vinegar if either of the blocks are plated. Were I you I'd really just take a toothbrush to the blocks, there's no point to clean em with a solvent since you can actually manually clean them. As to the bicarb, absolutely no danger. Personally I just set up my loop by the sink and actually run it with the pump while flushing. Much easier
> It's always going to be a controversy. A mild acid will strip all the crap out of your rad, but also strip the copper patina from the rad. Copper patina is a naturally occurring tarnish that protects the copper underneath from oxidizing. I'd recommend flushing rads once with an organic solvent once preferably when you first get them to get all the flux and stuff out. Yes flux is water soluble but let's be realistic here people do Distilled flushes all the time and their coolants still get messed up from flux. It's a time thing, how long will it take with a solvent vs how long it will take with pure distilled. I'd keep it out of your blocks though, only thing you should do for those is a bit of elbow grease.
> See post above
> So long as the dyes don't wack out the pH I'd say it should be fine. Just make sure there dyes and not primchill's dye bombs that have other crap in them as well.
> If there's another companies dye that looks amazing and mayhems doesn't offer it I'd say it's worth a shot, if mayhems offers it I'd say better safe than sorry.


This was very helpful. Thank you.

Edit: I take it that the protective film regenerates over time once stripped? (Oxidation)


----------



## Jeronbernal

finally got the deep red + blood red out and the pastel ice white back in









Before the Multi links


with red dye


After red dye flush


----------



## 15goudreau

Very Very nice. Have you thought about polishing those CSQ blocks though?


----------



## M3TAl

Looks legit







. Never liked the frosted EK blocks and all the circles though. Why I opted for the clean supremacy.


----------



## mikejones82

So got my pastel here so I mix 750ml of distilled or deionized or either one


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I know what Bicarb is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to be reassured of what i needed and how i was going to do things, as do some others, hence both Bradley and I asking for different opinions. I know it's not necessarily exact science, (though to some extent that's exactly what it is) i was asking the strength of solvent because if needed or preferable i could go beyond lemon juice or vinegar. I want to be 100% sure that everything is clean and ready to go before the loop is up and running, that way i'm not worried about pastel discoloration. What i'll more than likely end up doing is waiting on Mayhem's blitz kit, how long it takes to arrive in the U.S. is another thing.
> 
> But as pointed out earlier by Nornam people's methods vary and his has worked for him just using tap water and distilled.


I think for the Rads I will use White vinegar with hot water, then 100c water, then bicarb, then several distilled water flushes. This is the only time I will be using acids on my equipment.
What have you decided on if you can't get the mayhems kit?


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I know what Bicarb is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to be reassured of what i needed and how i was going to do things, as do some others, hence both Bradley and I asking for different opinions. I know it's not necessarily exact science, (though to some extent that's exactly what it is) i was asking the strength of solvent because if needed or preferable i could go beyond lemon juice or vinegar. I want to be 100% sure that everything is clean and ready to go before the loop is up and running, that way i'm not worried about pastel discoloration. What i'll more than likely end up doing is waiting on Mayhem's blitz kit, how long it takes to arrive in the U.S. is another thing.
> 
> But as pointed out earlier by Nornam people's methods vary and his has worked for him just using tap water and distilled.
> 
> 
> 
> I think for the Rads I will use White vinegar with hot water, then 100c water, then bicarb, then several distilled water flushes. This is the only time I will be using acids on my equipment.
> What have you decided on if you can't get the mayhems kit?
Click to expand...

I honestly don't know yet. I asked Ronsanut on YouTube what method he uses when he uses pastels and he just does multiple distilled washes. He specified that it was new equipment. I'll probably end up doing what your doing. For the rads vinegar + distilled, bicarb + distilled, then hot tap water and then some more distilled. For the new cpu block I'll probably just flush with distilled. And the GPU block that has been run with biocide I'll flush with bicarb + distilled then some more distilled.

Primochill tubing came with some cleaner might look at the ingredients in that as well.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Very Very nice. Have you thought about polishing those CSQ blocks though?


i saw some people with polished csq blocks... i've been actually thinking about it alot lately, i already have a stock clean supremacy, i might use that and polish the rest or just polish the frosted one, not sure... the stock clean one has no circles though, thank you for the compliment









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Looks legit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Never liked the frosted EK blocks and all the circles though. Why I opted for the clean supremacy.


thank you! like i said above, ive been contemplating polishing them, still thinking about it though :3

Anyone know a good way to power multiple 3mm and 5mm LED's other than a bunch of molex's? i prefer to use 2 pin connectors, i have a Bitspower X Station like This LINK but i feel that it's too bulky and have a hard time putting it behind the mobo tray, or a fashionable place to put it... anyone know any other ways of lighting 2pin LEDS? or a better looking lower profile hub that doesnt have them all sticking straight up?


----------



## bigbangSG

Also think of polishing my csq block but it too troublesome and take too much time


----------



## Jeronbernal

another idea i had along with polishing the blocks, was also using PCIE risers to reposition the GPU blocks to have them more visible.

Anyone know if there is any performance loss when using risers?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> another idea i had along with polishing the blocks, was also using PCIE risers to reposition the GPU blocks to have them more visible.
> 
> Anyone know if there is any performance loss when using risers?


There shouldn't be unless the risers themselves are of low quality.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> finally got the deep red + blood red out and the pastel ice white back in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before the Multi links
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> with red dye
> 
> 
> After red dye flush


That first photo is the one I think looks the best IMHO.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> There shouldn't be unless the risers themselves are of low quality.


ah, any ideas on which brands of risers are good?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That first photo is the one I think looks the best IMHO.


i like the bent acrylic tubing also, but alot of people say that it has crappy bends, so i think if i do decide to go back to straight tubing and no mid fittings, i will have to redo the bends, and also i might use the enhanced bp fittings for the inlets and outlets, in oppose to the bp c47's


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> I know it's been answered many times, UV red coolant/dye will have staining, regular red coolant/dye will not have staining correct?
> 
> Just filled my loop with Mayhems Pastel Red and looking forward to using UV White/blue dye in it, want to make sure I am not re-filling my loop next week, this stuff isn't cheap!


Any dye can cause staining. That is what dyes do. The UV pinks are the worst about it no doubt.

Any time you are changing fluids, you should appropriately flush your system before refilling.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Anyone know a good way to power multiple 3mm and 5mm LED's other than a bunch of molex's? i prefer to use 2 pin connectors, i have a Bitspower X Station like This LINK but i feel that it's too bulky and have a hard time putting it behind the mobo tray, or a fashionable place to put it... anyone know any other ways of lighting 2pin LEDS? or a better looking lower profile hub that doesnt have them all sticking straight up?


You could make your own powering station out of a pcb/circuit board. Just solder a bunch of two pin connectors to it and have one molex (fat 4 pin) connector or SATA connector to power those. Problem solved!

edit: formatting


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> You could make your own powering station out of a pcb/circuit board. Just solder a bunch of two pin connectors to it and have one molex (fat 4 pin) connector or SATA connector to power those. Problem solved!
> 
> edit: formatting


Just make sure you throw in the correct resistor if you do this. I think it's 3.3V.


----------



## 15goudreau

It depends on the LED actually. But if you were doing your own LEDs I would think you would know which resistor you needed or which voltage set to use on the molex/sata









If you don't however just google like circuit for LED connector calculator. You give it the voltage and supply voltage it will spit out how many amps it draws and what size resistor you need.


----------



## Jeronbernal

never made my own pcb before







i live about 5 minutes from frys, would i be able to get everything i need there? also for a PCB, would it be.. something like... THIS LINK

and when i solder the two pins in and the molex connector in, how do i connect the circuits/pins on the board? do i just use solder and make a trail between the pins and molex connector and resistor? also how would a resistor be installed?

here's the 3mm LED's LINK im using 6
and the 5mm LED LINK im using 2

thanks guys for your help


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> never made my own pcb before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i live about 5 minutes from frys, would i be able to get everything i need there? also for a PCB, would it be.. something like... THIS LINK
> 
> and when i solder the two pins in and the molex connector in, how do i connect the circuits/pins on the board? do i just use solder and make a trail between the pins and molex connector and resistor? also how would a resistor be installed?
> 
> here's the 3mm LED's LINK
> and the 5mm LED LINK
> 
> thanks guys for your help


That's a perforated circuit board, ideally for a PCB you want to start with pure copper clad. Sit down with a piece of paper, and a sharpy, and lay out all the components on the paper, and draw your circuit with the marker. Go to a local mail store and get the design copied to a piece of high gloss paper, be sure they use a laser printer and not an inkjet printer. The design needs to be printed on the paper with toner. Get a few copies of it. Then clean your copper clad REALLY well. Iron the circuit design onto the copper clad, soak in hot water to pull the paper off. You may need to iron the design on a few times to get a solid coating. Then mix hydrogen peroxide with Muriatic acid, one part muriatic acid to four parts hydrogen peroxide and soak the circuit board in it. Eventually the mixture will burn off all the copper except the traces you ironed on. Soak the finished PCB in lacquer thinner to remove the toner.

Please take anything more to a new thread, it's starting to hijack this thread.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Thank you so much, im going to try it out, gonna start a new thread for more info, just not too sure which category that would be in xD

And to get back onto topic,

I read somewhere a few posts ago about checking the pH balance in your loop in order to make sure your loop is okay... What can I find out if i do check the pH balance? Would the pH levels tell me if it's going to create algae? Or corrosion?

Thanks guys


----------



## 15goudreau

pH can mess with your colour in your dye. mostly what is effected is Pastels. You can buy some pH strip testers at like a fish store or pool store and you want as close to pH 7 as possible.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Thank you so much, im going to try it out, gonna start a new thread for more info, just not too sure which category that would be in xD
> 
> And to get back onto topic,
> 
> I read somewhere a few posts ago about checking the pH balance in your loop in order to make sure your loop is okay... What can I find out if i do check the pH balance? Would the pH levels tell me if it's going to create algae? Or corrosion?
> 
> Thanks guys


Too low of a pH would be acidic and promote corrosion, to high of a pH would make your loop basic or alkaline which would promote scaling which is fancy speak for particles depositing throughout your loop assuming there ARE particles in your loop. Too high or too low of pH will wack out coolants, ideally you want between 6.3-7 on your pH.


----------



## Noviets

Hey guys, using Mayhems X1 UV Green concentrate with Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing.

The Tubing comes with a bottle of "Pretreatment" do I need to use it or is it already in the X1?


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Too low of a pH would be acidic and promote corrosion, to high of a pH would make your loop basic or alkaline which would promote scaling which is fancy speak for particles depositing throughout your loop assuming there ARE particles in your loop. Too high or too low of pH will wack out coolants, ideally you want between 6.3-7 on your pH.


Do I test with the coolant in aswell?


----------



## 15goudreau

I don't think you can as the colour of the coolant would change the strips. Then you would need to buy a digital reader. I think if you flush everything and run with distilled for a few days and check it and it's good. You can safely say you should be good to go


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Do I test with the coolant in aswell?


Do a bicarb flush before you fill and you should be fine. X1 is pH balanced and isn't that sensitive to pH like pastel can be.


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Hey guys, using Mayhems X1 UV Green concentrate with Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing.
> 
> The Tubing comes with a bottle of "Pretreatment" do I need to use it or is it already in the X1?


When I got mine I tried searching anyone who had used it, only found few people. I decided to use it and it appeared to work fine, didn't see anything odd. That was before my X1 though back when I just used demineralised water, if I had both I wouldn't have bothered and simply used X1.


----------



## Jeronbernal

I hear the word bicarb flush alot, what is that?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> I hear the word bicarb flush alot, what is that?


One to two tablespoons of baking soda per liter of heated distilled water. It neutralizes anything in the loop so it doesn't mess up the coolant or wack out the pH. Generally a good idea when you're using coolants, not so much to be super nitpicky about about pH but more to prevent your coolant from getting all messed up.


----------



## skupples

anyone else notice X1 clear smells allot like Whiskey?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> Hey guys, using Mayhems X1 UV Green concentrate with Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing.
> 
> The Tubing comes with a bottle of "Pretreatment" do I need to use it or is it already in the X1?


it did? Last time I order tube from FCPU. They always just send it wrapped up in plastic, no box or anything.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> anyone else notice X1 clear smells allot like Whiskey?


They're both vegetable extracts


----------



## giltyler

My loop is asymbled on the counter with a lemon juice mix flowing though and will remain running for 3-4 hours to be followed by a bicarbonate rinse until morning.
This is on top of the lemon water shake and bicarbonate rinse I did last weekend and then let it run with straight water for 3 days.
I am not taking any chances with this Alphacool radiator or my phobya radiator that still had slight remains from EK blue coolant.
The new Ice White Mayhems goes in tomorow


----------



## liberato87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @liberato87 1 Tablespoon per 1 ltr of water.


ok thank you!

And for how much time I got to flush the loop with that solution? It is not a problem for the plexiglass of the reservoir or the pump, dont?

If I can give you and advice, think about write the procedure on the first page


----------



## Mayhem

Arrrrrr i was supposed to do a vid of us cleaning and using the blitz pro kit how ever my trainee took our 2 year old aurora system apart today and cleaned it out without us recording it :/ ...


----------



## skupples

fire.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Arrrrrr i was supposed to do a vid of us cleaning and using the blitz pro kit how ever my trainee took our 2 year old aurora system apart today and cleaned it out without us recording it :/ ...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> fire.


Beat with a stick!!


----------



## kvickstick

Mayhems Pastel Orange with PrimoChill LRT Crystal Clear tubing looks stunning! <3


----------



## giltyler

I like your color choice and the fans match so well too


----------



## Mayhem

@kvickstick very very nice.


----------



## Blackops_2

Makes me wish I would've gone orange. Gotta stick with the green theme though. What size tubing is that Vick?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gdubc

FrozenCPU has Mayhems listed in new products now also. Does anyone know if the aurora that is carried by FCPU and PPCS is the new recipe?


----------



## z0ki

Guys what colour should I go for with coolant and sleeving? I'm going to do my own sleeving, but I'm not sure what k should go for. I was going to go for mayhems pastel blue berry, as I thought a nice blue with the white eloops will really make it look nice but after opinions of others before I decide.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Guys what colour should I go for with coolant and sleeving? I'm going to do my own sleeving, but I'm not sure what k should go for. I was going to go for mayhems pastel blue berry, as I thought a nice blue with the white eloops will really make it look nice but after opinions of others before I decide.


Personally I think Pastel UV white with some UV CCFLs would look great. Generally you if you want to do blue with red you want to go REALLY light blue, as it's negatives and contrasts each other. Just my opinion though.


----------



## z0ki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Personally I think Pastel UV white with some UV CCFLs would look great. Generally you if you want to do blue with red you want to go REALLY light blue, as it's negatives and contrasts each other. Just my opinion though.


Interesting you put it that way, when I think about it a baby blue and red do go hand in hand, somewhat.

I wanted to go for like a spacey nebula look if it that makes any kind of sense lol. white fans black fittings, as I find blue and black go well, but its a pain because as you said the red really would kill it as its a quite violent colour that pops a bit too much.

I found in my switch 810 build having white tubing i got sick of looking at it, and that may well be due to the fact the case was white too..

I wanted to go for a theme that was a bit gloomy but noticeable.

I think the red ram sticks will make it difficult.

I want to try and get it done this week, I've been running just DI and liquid utopia, and need to flush it a few times and with alphacool rads seems a thorough clean is needed.

If I go UV white, or the baby blue I'll have to then go with relatively light sleeving too which will then defeat my original plan of something "gloomy" but eye catching with a little lighting


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Interesting you put it that way, when I think about it a baby blue and red do go hand in hand, somewhat.
> 
> I wanted to go for like a spacey nebula look if it that makes any kind of sense lol. white fans black fittings, as I find blue and black go well, but its a pain because as you said the red really would kill it as its a quite violent colour that pops a bit too much.
> 
> I found in my switch 810 build having white tubing i got sick of looking at it, and that may well be due to the fact the case was white too..
> 
> I wanted to go for a theme that was a bit gloomy but noticeable.
> 
> I think the red ram sticks will make it difficult.
> 
> I want to try and get it done this week, I've been running just DI and liquid utopia, and need to flush it a few times and with alphacool rads seems a thorough clean is needed.
> 
> If I go UV white, or the baby blue I'll have to then go with relatively light sleeving too which will then defeat my original plan of something "gloomy" but eye catching with a little lighting


Well thankfully your red is kind of a brick red, very dark and 'lax, so to speak. Black pairs with anything and everything. Same with white. That's why those always look good as base colors. If you go with blueberry pastel I'd go with sleeving to match, if you go with Pastel UV White and some CCFLs I'd almost go with white or black sleeving. It'll be a really PITA to find sleeving to match a florescent coolant.


----------



## z0ki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well thankfully your red is kind of a brick red, very dark and 'lax, so to speak. Black pairs with anything and everything. Same with white. That's why those always look good as base colors. If you go with blueberry pastel I'd go with sleeving to match, if you go with Pastel UV White and some CCFLs I'd almost go with white or black sleeving. It'll be a really PITA to find sleeving to match a florescent coolant.


Well if I do go with pastel blue berry, I was going to sleeve with black, charcoal, blue, white. Of course some colours would be doubled up either for the centre cabling or an outta edge.

I could perhaps always paint my ram if it's easy enough to do to remove the heat sink off of them, then i'll need to figure out the colour to go for lol.

I find white black and mayhems blueberry would not look too bad, but then again as i said im quite terrible with colours and never actually use coloured coolants before so want to make it look good!







and i've not seen a 900D with blueberry, it's always white, or yellow, or red.


----------



## z0ki

Actually I am pretty set on the pastel blueberry after looking more thoroughly at builds from here and other forums it really gives a beautiful blue.

So now that is out of the way, what can I do about the red issue with the ram sticks? what would my options be then in your opinion?

btw cheers for the input too!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Actually I am pretty set on the pastel blueberry after looking more thoroughly at builds from here and other forums it really gives a beautiful blue.
> 
> So now that is out of the way, what can I do about the red issue with the ram sticks? what would my options be then in your opinion?
> 
> btw cheers for the input too!


Removing them is ill advised. Those look like either the GSkill Sniper, or the Corsair 1600MHz sticks, either way they both have really good warranties. I'd fill with pastel blueberry and see how it looks. Honestly I think if you do the sleeving right, like how you were saying, it'll look good. If it's truly unbearable with red sinks you remove the fins by unscrewing the mount screws, then you take a heat gun to the ram set and eventually the adhesive holding the heatsink on will melt. Then you should be able to just peal them off.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> FrozenCPU has Mayhems listed in new products now also. Does anyone know if the aurora that is carried by FCPU and PPCS is the new recipe?


I'd like to know the same...anyone?


----------



## midnightgypsy

I read awhile back that PPCS has it... So I'm sure FCPU does to...


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnightgypsy*
> 
> I read awhile back that PPCS has it... So I'm sure FCPU does to...


Thanks...just ordered some









+REP


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Thanks...just ordered some
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +REP


You may want to email FCPU and ask if it's the new aurora. It's being slipped streamed in so to my knowledge they aren't selling the new stuff until the old stuff sells out.


----------



## djnsmith7

I'm trying to figure out why the new product wouldn't have a different SKU. It should, since it's a different product (even if only slightly different).


----------



## z0ki

Hrmmm just to my acrylic build already being up and running, and I have 3 alphacool rads in my 900D, how the hell would I be able to re-flush the rads and get it prepped for Mayhems Pastel? Do i really need to remove the rads and flush them?


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> You may want to email FCPU and ask if it's the new aurora. It's being slipped streamed in so to my knowledge they aren't selling the new stuff until the old stuff sells out.


I ordered from PPCS...

3 x *** NEW *** Mayhems Aurora Supernova Concentrate - 250ml (MD-AUR-SN-CON) = $53.85

3 x *** NEW *** Mayhems Aurora Tharsis Red Concentrate - 250ml (MD-AUR-TR-CON) = $53.85

I just emailed them to get some confirmation if my order for the above 2 flavors was indeed the newer versions, else to just cancel the order.

I'll post the verdict.

Thanks guys


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> I ordered from PPCS...
> 
> 3 x *** NEW *** Mayhems Aurora Supernova Concentrate - 250ml (MD-AUR-SN-CON) = $53.85
> 
> 3 x *** NEW *** Mayhems Aurora Tharsis Red Concentrate - 250ml (MD-AUR-TR-CON) = $53.85
> 
> I just emailed them to get some confirmation if my order for the above 2 flavors was indeed the newer versions, else to just cancel the order.
> 
> I'll post the verdict.
> 
> Thanks guys


I will be waiting to hear from you! Have some +rep for the leg work, buddy!


----------



## Blackops_2

So..just got back from a 16hr shift (worked a double) to find out my roommate left the air condition off, likely to save money, it was about 80 degrees when i got back. With this hurt or affect my pastel? Might be a little too worrisome but it does state keep in a cool dry place.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I will be waiting to hear from you! Have some +rep for the leg work, buddy!


Some super fast customer services at PPCS


----------



## skupples

PPC is usually spot on w/ customer service. Even on the weekends. I wonder if Mick re-mixed the Whiskey, I mean "X1 Clear"


----------



## z0ki

Hrmmm just to my acrylic build already being up and running, and I have 3 alphacool rads in my 900D, how the hell would I be able to re-flush the rads and get it prepped for Mayhems Pastel? Do i really need to remove the rads and flush them?


----------



## 15goudreau

zoki, I think my system is sort of what you want yours to look like? here is a picture.

Although it doesn't have red...



Edit: It's white rads, black fittings, blue coolant, and eventually blue fans.


----------



## Mayhem

Small update on exporting of the Blitz kits to the USA. Simple put USA are rubbish and they just seem to take the wee a little. So for the last week and a bit ive been revamping the kit so that Part one is not as aggressive and falls within the limits needed to get it past customs and still works as expected.

All documentation is being updated and we will post full details once its all complete.


----------



## VSG

lol why am I not surprised? Hopefully customs doesn't take too long!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol why am I not surprised? *Hopefully customs doesn't take too long!*


Oh they will. BSIS took like 4 months to process my security guard card. Taxpayer dollars hard at work.







Still though, It'll be nice when those kits finally hit the market. XD


----------



## gdubc

I took my kid for a school field trip to the zoo in Denver today (yep, 0°C and snow is perfect zoo trip weather here in Colorado), and went by Microcenter. Online said they had pastel but when I got there they had Aurora also. It said new improved on the label so I assume this is the new recipe? So my main question now is if anyone has any experience with it and ek rads. I have ek p.e. rads in one setup and xtx/xtc in the other. I was so tempted to get it but I feel I need to do some more research on aurora first so any help/advice is appreciated!


----------



## badkarma3059

I noticed when I went to microcenter out here and bought fittings the recipe said "frozencpu fitting" or something to that effect. Likely the source there stuff from frozencpu so you will likely get new stock.


----------



## gdubc

Yeah, I should have taken a pic because they had a big box from frozencpu sitting on the top shelf that hadn't been unpacked yet.

I am mostly just worried that my planned loops may be too complex for Aurora. Damn I want me some though.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah I have seen some FCPU stuff at the Microcenter here in Atlanta as well


----------



## z0ki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> zoki, I think my system is sort of what you want yours to look like? here is a picture.
> 
> Although it doesn't have red...
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: It's white rads, black fittings, blue coolant, and eventually blue fans.


Yeah mate I really dig the pastel blueberry on black.. I'm just concerned my ram sticks will make it clash unfortunately I'll try it anyway









If worse come to worse I'll see my G.Skill ripjawz 32gb and get some corsair platniums or something..

Now with as I got 3 alphacool rads that ATM is running distilled and liquid utopia, will letting the system run with lemon juice and bicarb for a few hours and flushed 3-4 times with that method then just normal distilled water a couple times be suffient to clean them?

I don't need to remove the rads and pull apart my acrylic loop do I?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Yeah mate I really dig the pastel blueberry on black.. I'm just concerned my ram sticks will make it clash unfortunately I'll try it anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If worse come to worse I'll see my G.Skill ripjawz 32gb and get some corsair platniums or something..
> 
> Now with as I got 3 alphacool rads that ATM is running distilled and liquid utopia, will letting the system run with lemon juice and bicarb for a few hours and flushed 3-4 times with that method then just normal distilled water a couple times be suffient to clean them?
> 
> I don't need to remove the rads and pull apart my acrylic loop do I?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


You could always just paint the ripjaws black







. And that should do it, if you are worried buy some pH test strips and take a look at it to make sure it's around 7


----------



## Belial

Hey I have a problem with my loop. I have an H110 where I changed the tubing and hooked up a 250ml reservoir:



That's before running and filling completely.

It's got about 1 bottle of mayhem blueberry blue, and 2.5 bottles of dark blue dye.

It was running fine for the last week or so, no problem since installation. Then, today I noticed that it's no longer mayhemish. The reservoir is totally clear, it's just dark blue fluid, while the tubes at the top are extremely blueberry'd. It appears that the mayhem fluid is stuck to the walls of the tube, since there's a few spots I can see just the dark blue fluid in it, like near some of the barbs.

My temps appear to be fine, no issue.

Like what am I supposed to do with this, what the heck ;/


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Hey I have a problem with my loop. I have an H110 where I changed the tubing and hooked up a 250ml reservoir:
> 
> 
> 
> That's before running and filling completely.
> 
> It's got about 1 bottle of mayhem blueberry blue, and 2.5 bottles of dark blue dye.
> 
> It was running fine for the last week or so, no problem since installation. Then, today I noticed that it's no longer mayhemish. The reservoir is totally clear, it's just dark blue fluid, while the tubes at the top are extremely blueberry'd. It appears that the mayhem fluid is stuck to the walls of the tube, since there's a few spots I can see just the dark blue fluid in it, like near some of the barbs.
> 
> My temps appear to be fine, no issue.
> 
> Like what am I supposed to do with this, what the heck ;/


So is the res clear or blue, you're not making any sense


----------



## Nuuze

Tharsis Red

Enjoy!
http://youtu.be/A2Xknm4zxP8


----------



## midnightgypsy

Let us all know how this New Aurora 2 works out for you... ie temps and compared to ? liquid... Thanks, been giving this some thought myself... Russ


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Hey I have a problem with my loop. I have an H110 where I changed the tubing and hooked up a 250ml reservoir:
> 
> 
> 
> That's before running and filling completely.
> 
> It's got about 1 bottle of mayhem blueberry blue, and 2.5 bottles of dark blue dye.
> 
> It was running fine for the last week or so, no problem since installation. Then, today I noticed that it's no longer mayhemish. The reservoir is totally clear, it's just dark blue fluid, while the tubes at the top are extremely blueberry'd. It appears that the mayhem fluid is stuck to the walls of the tube, since there's a few spots I can see just the dark blue fluid in it, like near some of the barbs.
> 
> My temps appear to be fine, no issue.
> 
> Like what am I supposed to do with this, what the heck ;/


i honestly don't understand what you said. looking at you pics you tubes are clear and the res is blue very dark blue which is not what pastel looks like. If you water down pastel too much then its going to have issues if that is what you are saying.

BLitz Pro Update - Docs now updated and new part 1 are being swapped out for the "safer" options. you'll notice the time difference from the old docs to the new and a few other changes. http://www.mayhems.co.uk/downloads/Blitz/Cleaning%201.pdf


----------



## Jameswalt1

Here's a quick Aurora 2 video I made, and a couple of pictures.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Here's a quick Aurora 2 video I made, and a couple of pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Really think I want some for my Lian Li.

PS Where is the music from?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really think I want some for my Lian Li.
> 
> PS Where is the music from?


Painted World by Two Steps From Hell









I have a ridiculously large file collection of proprietary trailer music by Two Steps From Hell and Audio Machine









Yeah, assuming it holds up in an everyday system (which I think it will), I have no desire to use anything except Aurora 2 ever again. I wish I had a bunch more so I could just mess around mixing different colors.


----------



## skupples

man, aurora really lets you see how fast your water is moving.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> man, aurora really lets you see how fast your water is moving.


Indeed, really cool.

Although I haven't messed with pump speed yet, I haven't even hooked this thing up to a monitor yet. I'm going to hook it up in my entertainment room later tonight and adjust speeds, get temps etc... I think it'll look best at a slower speed .


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Hey I have a problem with my loop. I have an H110 where I changed the tubing and hooked up a 250ml reservoir:
> 
> 
> 
> That's before running and filling completely.
> 
> It's got about 1 bottle of mayhem blueberry blue, and 2.5 bottles of dark blue dye.
> 
> It was running fine for the last week or so, no problem since installation. Then, today I noticed that it's no longer mayhemish. The reservoir is totally clear, it's just dark blue fluid, while the tubes at the top are extremely blueberry'd. It appears that the mayhem fluid is stuck to the walls of the tube, since there's a few spots I can see just the dark blue fluid in it, like near some of the barbs.
> 
> My temps appear to be fine, no issue.
> 
> Like what am I supposed to do with this, what the heck ;/
> 
> 
> 
> i honestly don't understand what you said. looking at you pics you tubes are clear and the res is blue very dark blue which is not what pastel looks like. If you water down pastel too much then its going to have issues if that is what you are saying.
> 
> BLitz Pro Update - Docs now updated and new part 1 are being swapped out for the "safer" options. you'll notice the time difference from the old docs to the new and a few other changes. http://www.mayhems.co.uk/downloads/Blitz/Cleaning%201.pdf
Click to expand...

argggh.

That is a BEFORE picture, as in BEFORE running and filling completely. This is just to show the loop. I shouldn't have even bothered posting the picture, really. IGNORE the picture, that is not what I am talking about. It's like saying I have a lambo with no wheels and posting a pic of a stock lambo, just so you know what kind of car I'm talking about.

I cannot say EXACTLY how much I used of things because I had to order 2 bottles of dye twice because I ended up being short, etc etc. I followed the basic 1 part Mayhems Blueberry 3 Parts Water formula, ie 250ml of Mayhem for every 750ml of water. On top of that, roughly 2.5 bottles of Dark Blue Mayhems Dye. I would imagine there is about 0.4ml of fluid in that loop.

Also, that is the CPU ONLY loop, the GPU loop to the left is isolated and not the subject (it's running just fine, with the same fluid mixture).

*To repeat my Problem and Specifications:*
H110 with Tygon 2475 Clear Plasticizer Free Tubing (as recommended) and 250ml Bitspower Clear Inline reservoir
~.4ml of fluid total
2.5 bottles of Dark Blue Mayhems Dye
~1 bottle of Mayhems Blueberry Blue
Distilled Water added for necessary 250/750 mix specifications

The _Tubing_ appears to be stained Mayhem Blueberry Blue on the inside walls, as evidenced by it being normally clear near some of the barbs. The Fluid itself has lost it's opaque mayhem-ness and is just dark blue. My reservoir is only dark blue fluid.

My temps are fine, the pump is fine, it seems to be _working_ fine. But somehow all the mayhem fluid is gunked up or something.

This is an odd issue, as my other closed loop is running just fine. There was no settling period, it was fine the night before and the next day I see it's all stopped up.

I apologize for being curt but this is _extremely_ frustrating. I spent basically a year making this computer, and this loop is an integral part of it's identity and what the build is about. it's not about 'just get a custom loop bro ez', it's about sending a message of doing things your own way, making a unique system. While the loop is actually a very secondary part of the focus of my build, it is still a major part of it. If this Mayhems fluid cannot work as it is advertised, then that really screws up my project as the Solid dark blue was going to color match a lot of things in my computer - things that would not match if it was transperant instead of opaque.

If Mayhems cannot work, then it'd really require an entire redesign of my entire computer. It would really suck.

Obviously, I will not go into exactly why it is so important colors be as I wish, but I paid a lot of money for this stuff (over $70 in mayhems) and a lot of my mod was built from the ground up around the concept of opaque fluid. I do not think I need to explain every single aspect of my computer here to justify why I want this to work and why this is extremely upsetting to me. Besides, I've already posted enough info about my build and on youtube that you can figure it out if it really makes a difference.

I guess it wouldn't be the first thing that turned into a major trainwreck and headache because it didn't work right in my build, but it'd definitely be the most expensive and dissapointing one.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> argggh.
> 
> That is a BEFORE picture, as in BEFORE running and filling completely. This is just to show the loop. I shouldn't have even bothered posting the picture, really. IGNORE the picture, that is not what I am talking about. It's like saying I have a lambo with no wheels and posting a pic of a stock lambo, just so you know what kind of car I'm talking about.
> 
> I cannot say EXACTLY how much I used of things because I had to order 2 bottles of dye twice because I ended up being short, etc etc. I followed the basic 1 part Mayhems Blueberry 3 Parts Water formula, ie 250ml of Mayhem for every 750ml of water. On top of that, roughly 2.5 bottles of Dark Blue Mayhems Dye. I would imagine there is about 0.4ml of fluid in that loop.
> 
> Also, that is the CPU ONLY loop, the GPU loop to the left is isolated and not the subject (it's running just fine, with the same fluid mixture).
> 
> *To repeat my Problem and Specifications:*
> H110 with Tygon 2475 (plasticizer free as recommended by mayhems) and 250ml Bitspower Inline reservoir
> ~.4ml of fluid total
> 2.5 bottles of Dark Blue Mayhems Dye
> ~1 bottle of Mayhems Blueberry Blue
> Distilled Water added for necessary 250/750 mix specifications
> 
> The Tubing appears to be stained Mayhem Blueberry Blue on the inside walls, as evidenced by it being normally clear near some of the barbs. The Fluid itself has lost it's opaque mayhem-ness and is just dark blue. My reservoir is only dark blue fluid.
> 
> My temps are fine, the pump is fine, it seems to be working fine. But somehow all the mayhem fluid is gunked up or something.
> 
> This is an odd issue, as my other closed loop is running just fine. There was no settling period, it was fine the night before and the next day I see it's all stopped up.


You realize that it would help if you posted a simple picture of what you are talking about instead of getting irritated at him trying to help you (despite the fact that your original post was confusing, and you don't provide a picture to show what is going on)?


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> You realize that it would help if you posted a simple picture of what you are talking about instead of getting irritated at him trying to help you (despite the fact that your original post was confusing, and you don't provide a picture to show what is going on)?


You may of mixed it a lil strong... It's a 120ml of mayhem to 750ml DI water... As to your problem with mayhem stuck to the walls and the clear tubes... I am wondering if you flushed out your modded H110. It could be a chemical reaction to the two diffent coolants.... I hope this helps...Russ


----------



## skupples

Sounds like you over mixed the living hell out of your dye, but that shouldn't cause gunking...

Is your other loop also a modified H110? i'm wondering if your strong mixture had a reaction with w/e is normally used in the H110.

Staining happens, specially when you mix it as thick as you have. The gunking is the issue here.


----------



## M4ng03z

Also, did you mix the fluid before putting it in? Pouring in the concentrate straight and then adding water might have caused staining? Maybe?


----------



## M4ng03z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> i saw some people with polished csq blocks... i've been actually thinking about it alot lately, i already have a stock clean supremacy, i might use that and polish the rest or just polish the frosted one, not sure... the stock clean one has no circles though, thank you for the compliment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank you! like i said above, ive been contemplating polishing them, still thinking about it though :3


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> Also think of polishing my csq block but it too troublesome and take too much time


DO EET.
Kokin convinced me and I love the result. It wasn't hard at all. Here's a side-by-side comparison:

And a before:

And an after:

EDIT: Here's the linky-dink to the how-to
http://www.overclock.net/t/1434852/ek-waterblock-polishing-guide


----------



## Mayhem

@Belial

Oky sound like you spent loads and all hell has broken lose. Sounds like the nano fluids have stuck to the tubing .. This is the first time ever we have heard or seen this with "Mayhems Pastel". So what has caused it? ... Well i haven't got a clue or a answer and without a sample of said tubing and some of the fluid i cannot answer your question.

How ever !!!!!! put this all together in a email with pics, Show me receipts of you purchases of Mayhems products and i will replace it all (my email is well documented in these forums but here it is again [email protected]).

*So Email Me with*

Explanation of you set up as above.
Receipts of all you purchases of the dyes and fluids you bought.
Pictures of the issues please so we can try and work out what has happened and document the issue for our records..
Your full name, address and telephone number.

*What i will do.*

Read though it all.
Document the issue incase it happens again and we can find a common issue or cause.
Replace your ALL your dyes and fluids and ship them out to you.

*What would be helpful would be ..*

If you could send us a sample of the tubing clear and new, some tubing with the offending stuck nano fluid, and some liquid (we only need about 100ml). Then we could analyze the PH level, the fluids and the particle count and check to see if we can find out what has caused it. If necessary we could get it analyzed and compared to new fluids. If we find its a issue else were we can document it and let other know. If its a issue with our product we can look into fixing it. Once i get you email i will email you back with our full address to send said samples too.

99.99% of the time its not the fluid at fault but either a incompatibility issue or something else. Lets see if we can solve the problem









Mick @ Mayhems


----------



## skupples




----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> argggh.
> 
> That is a BEFORE picture, as in BEFORE running and filling completely. This is just to show the loop. I shouldn't have even bothered posting the picture, really. IGNORE the picture, that is not what I am talking about. It's like saying I have a lambo with no wheels and posting a pic of a stock lambo, just so you know what kind of car I'm talking about.
> 
> I cannot say EXACTLY how much I used of things because I had to order 2 bottles of dye twice because I ended up being short, etc etc. I followed the basic 1 part Mayhems Blueberry 3 Parts Water formula, ie 250ml of Mayhem for every 750ml of water. On top of that, roughly 2.5 bottles of Dark Blue Mayhems Dye. I would imagine there is about 0.4ml of fluid in that loop.
> 
> Also, that is the CPU ONLY loop, the GPU loop to the left is isolated and not the subject (it's running just fine, with the same fluid mixture).
> 
> *To repeat my Problem and Specifications:*
> 
> H110 with Tygon 2475 (plasticizer free as recommended by mayhems) and 250ml Bitspower Inline reservoir
> 
> ~.4ml of fluid total
> 
> 2.5 bottles of Dark Blue Mayhems Dye
> 
> ~1 bottle of Mayhems Blueberry Blue
> 
> Distilled Water added for necessary 250/750 mix specifications
> 
> The _Tubing_ appears to be stained Mayhem Blueberry Blue on the inside walls, as evidenced by it being normally clear near some of the barbs. The Fluid itself has lost it's opaque mayhem-ness and is just dark blue. My reservoir is only dark blue fluid.
> 
> My temps are fine, the pump is fine, it seems to be _working_ fine. But somehow all the mayhem fluid is gunked up or something.
> 
> This is an odd issue, as my other closed loop is running just fine. There was no settling period, it was fine the night before and the next day I see it's all stopped up.
> 
> 
> 
> You realize that it would help if you posted a simple picture of what you are talking about instead of getting irritated at him trying to help you (despite the fact that your original post was confusing, and you don't provide a picture to show what is going on)?
Click to expand...

Yes, I am aware of technology.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> You may of mixed it a lil strong... It's a 120ml of mayhem to 750ml DI water... As to your problem with mayhem stuck to the walls and the clear tubes... I am wondering if you flushed out your modded H110. It could be a chemical reaction to the two diffent coolants.... I hope this helps...Russ


I did flushing, I ran a ton of hot water, then diluted water through it with pressure, through everything disassembled. It would only be heavily diluted propylene glycol if I didn't flush it out anyways, and my reservoir more than quadruples the amount of fluid in the system so I doubt it's anything left in the loop (besides, my other closed loop with no reservoir that was flushed the same way is still fine).

I flicked really hard on the tubing and got the mayhems off the walls of the tubing, but now the fluid is just dark blue. I imagine all the zinc oxide is just stuck inside the radiator or the block/pump...

Also, on the bottle of the Mayhem's blueberry blue, it definitely says 250ml mayhems to 750ml water, not 120:750.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Belial
> 
> Oky sound like you spent loads and all hell has broken lose. Sounds like the nano fluids have stuck to the tubing .. This is the first time ever we have heard or seen this with "Mayhems Pastel". So what has caused it? ... Well i haven't got a clue or a answer and without a sample of said tubing and some of the fluid i cannot answer your question.
> 
> How ever !!!!!! put this all together in a email with pics, Show me receipts of you purchases of Mayhems products and i will replace it all (my email is well documented in these forums but here it is again [email protected]).
> 
> *So Email Me with*
> 
> Explanation of you set up as above.
> Receipts of all you purchases of the dyes and fluids you bought.
> Pictures of the issues please so we can try and work out what has happened and document the issue for our records..
> Your full name, address and telephone number.
> 
> *What i will do.*
> 
> Read though it all.
> Document the issue incase it happens again and we can find a common issue or cause.
> Replace your ALL your dyes and fluids and ship them out to you.
> 
> *What would be helpful would be ..*
> 
> If you could send us a sample of the tubing clear and new, some tubing with the offending stuck nano fluid, and some liquid (we only need about 100ml). Then we could analyze the PH level, the fluids and the particle count and check to see if we can find out what has caused it. If necessary we could get it analyzed and compared to new fluids. If we find its a issue else were we can document it and let other know. If its a issue with our product we can look into fixing it. Once i get you email i will email you back with our full address to send said samples too.
> 
> 99.99% of the time its not the fluid at fault but either a incompatibility issue or something else. Lets see if we can solve the problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mick @ Mayhems













I don't want a replacement, I want to fix it. I'll give it a few days, maybe a week or so, to try to troubleshoot this on my own or with help through the forums. I appreciate the offer, I don't think replacing it will fix it, I mean all this fluid is in the system, it's not like it's bad or anything.

I'm going to try supermanning it in a bit (lifting the case above my head and just shaking violently and flipping and turning it, how do you think I bled it in the first place). I don't have a CD drive or HDD so i mean my system would be fine thrown down the stairs. Hopefully I can shake it together (with the tubing walls getting clean, I think that indicates it as a possibility).

But I would need to do something to make sure it doesn't happen again... like install some sort of spinning contraption in the loop to keep it mixed. Some of sort force drive... or fluid propellor... or motorized hydrobic impeller of some kind...


----------



## skupples

Looks like you don't have much to worry about now. Mick is well known for turning these situations into teaching & learning moments.


----------



## pathfindercod

I'm new to this and have Ben doing tons of research. The aurora stuff isn't really made for daily gaming use is it? They make it clear it's for show and may last 24 hours or 6 months.?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> I'm new to this and have Ben doing tons of research. The aurora stuff isn't really made for daily gaming use is it? They make it clear it's for show and may last 24 hours or 6 months.?


That's the "Official Statement" for sales purposes. Old aurora will last as long as the system will allow. The more complex the loop, and the more "deadzones" where coolant stays stagnant the quicker the nano particles will fall out of suspension. When the particles fall out of suspension you're left with X1 and metallic particles everywhere around the loop. It's lasted anywhere between half a day and a year and a half. The more your loop is designed around aurora the longer it's prone to last, the smaller the loop the better.

Now with new aurora the particles are smaller so they're less prone to being caught in deadzones so it allows for more complex loops. The newer aurora also has a redesigned liquid base to allow the particles to be more easily suspended in the coolant. Again, the better designed your system is around aurora, the longer it will last. The newer aurora should be drained yearly as once activated the surfactants will break down after about a year.

Most people don't do this research to know what's up with aurora so the only real way to make sure people don't blame the coolant for their mistakes they slap that on the bottle. It's basically somewhat of a disclaimer.


----------



## pathfindercod

Thank you! I think I might go the pastel route, not sure yet. I want as little maintenance as necessary with my new system I'm trying to lay out.


----------



## Mayhem

@Belial well i was going to send you part 2 of our cleaning kit as well so that you can run it though your system and it "may" fix your issues and prepare it for pastel. If you tubing is leaching any thing then Blitz part 2 may fix the issue buy removing it and suspending it in the cleaning solution and when you flush it out it will be gone







. If say its some thing in you rad again Part 2 should do its job and help it out. Now if none of that works and we've tried every method i can think off we have another weapon we can send you how ever im not prepared to discuss it in a public forum atm. So its up to you the offer is open







.

Mick


----------



## Noviets

Hey Mayhem, I'm after a bit more of a Glow from the Emerald UV Green concentrate. It's quite hard to notice inside the case with the lights on in the room. I was recommended to get some Primochill UV Green Intensifier to help it, but wondering if you have anything that may help?

I have 2x 30cm Bitspower UV cold cathodes with Primoflex Advanced LRT clear tubing.

Should I just add more cathodes?


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I did flushing, I ran a ton of hot water, then diluted water through it with pressure, through everything disassembled. It would only be heavily diluted propylene glycol if I didn't flush it out anyways, and my reservoir more than quadruples the amount of fluid in the system so I doubt it's anything left in the loop (besides, my other closed loop with no reservoir that was flushed the same way is still fine).
> 
> I flicked really hard on the tubing and got the mayhems off the walls of the tubing, but now the fluid is just dark blue. I imagine all the zinc oxide is just stuck inside the radiator or the block/pump...
> 
> Also, on the bottle of the Mayhem's blueberry blue, it definitely says 250ml mayhems to 750ml water, not 120:750.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't want a replacement, I want to fix it. I'll give it a few days, maybe a week or so, to try to troubleshoot this on my own or with help through the forums. I appreciate the offer, I don't think replacing it will fix it, I mean all this fluid is in the system, it's not like it's bad or anything.
> 
> I'm going to try supermanning it in a bit (lifting the case above my head and just shaking violently and flipping and turning it, how do you think I bled it in the first place). I don't have a CD drive or HDD so i mean my system would be fine thrown down the stairs. Hopefully I can shake it together (with the tubing walls getting clean, I think that indicates it as a possibility).
> 
> But I would need to do something to make sure it doesn't happen again... like install some sort of spinning contraption in the loop to keep it mixed. Some of sort force drive... or fluid propellor... or motorized hydrobic impeller of some kind...


all day while at work. I kept rethinking what could of gone wrong with your setup. Why the seperation of coonant. The one thing that keeps coming back to me. Is your pic with the res. Whats below the mid-plate. I mean does the res connect to your loop under the mid-plate... If not, then H110's pump has a dead zone res... It sounds stupid, but being to close to a problem blinds you.... I hope this gets fix for you... And it sounds like your in good hands(US!)..... Russ


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I did flushing, I ran a ton of hot water, then diluted water through it with pressure, through everything disassembled. It would only be heavily diluted propylene glycol if I didn't flush it out anyways, and my reservoir more than quadruples the amount of fluid in the system so I doubt it's anything left in the loop (besides, my other closed loop with no reservoir that was flushed the same way is still fine).
> 
> I flicked really hard on the tubing and got the mayhems off the walls of the tubing, but now the fluid is just dark blue. I imagine all the zinc oxide is just stuck inside the radiator or the block/pump...
> 
> Also, on the bottle of the Mayhem's blueberry blue, it definitely says 250ml mayhems to 750ml water, not 120:750.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't want a replacement, I want to fix it. I'll give it a few days, maybe a week or so, to try to troubleshoot this on my own or with help through the forums. I appreciate the offer, I don't think replacing it will fix it, I mean all this fluid is in the system, it's not like it's bad or anything.
> 
> I'm going to try supermanning it in a bit (lifting the case above my head and just shaking violently and flipping and turning it, how do you think I bled it in the first place). I don't have a CD drive or HDD so i mean my system would be fine thrown down the stairs. Hopefully I can shake it together (with the tubing walls getting clean, I think that indicates it as a possibility).
> 
> But I would need to do something to make sure it doesn't happen again... like install some sort of spinning contraption in the loop to keep it mixed. Some of sort force drive... or fluid propellor... or motorized hydrobic impeller of some kind...


Why would you want to gonit alone when you can get mick and his team to sort it out and find a reason by testing it in their lab?? Is it just because you dont want to take the loop apart? Which i can understand but then nothing will get foxed and all this is for nothing. I dont understand what youre asking mayhems or the foruns for? People have given opinions and suggestions and even mick has offered an amazing solution which i would take up if it were me but you dont seem to want to hear what they have to say. I hope you get it fixed and if you do it alone please share so everyone then has the knowledge of your experience. Good luck


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> I did flushing, I ran a ton of hot water, then diluted water through it with pressure, through everything disassembled. It would only be heavily diluted propylene glycol if I didn't flush it out anyways, and my reservoir more than quadruples the amount of fluid in the system so I doubt it's anything left in the loop (besides, my other closed loop with no reservoir that was flushed the same way is still fine).
> 
> I flicked really hard on the tubing and got the mayhems off the walls of the tubing, but now the fluid is just dark blue. I imagine all the zinc oxide is just stuck inside the radiator or the block/pump...
> 
> Also, on the bottle of the Mayhem's blueberry blue, it definitely says 250ml mayhems to 750ml water, not 120:750.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't want a replacement, I want to fix it. I'll give it a few days, maybe a week or so, to try to troubleshoot this on my own or with help through the forums. I appreciate the offer, I don't think replacing it will fix it, I mean all this fluid is in the system, it's not like it's bad or anything.
> 
> I'm going to try supermanning it in a bit (lifting the case above my head and just shaking violently and flipping and turning it, how do you think I bled it in the first place). I don't have a CD drive or HDD so i mean my system would be fine thrown down the stairs. Hopefully I can shake it together (with the tubing walls getting clean, I think that indicates it as a possibility).
> 
> But I would need to do something to make sure it doesn't happen again... like install some sort of spinning contraption in the loop to keep it mixed. Some of sort force drive... or fluid propellor... or motorized hydrobic impeller of some kind...


Huh, if your reservoir is set up with the inlet AND outlet at the top, and with as anemic as the pumps in the AIO coolers are, your reservoir setup is the problem, since it is just going to allow the nano particles to settle at the bottom, since the pump has to SUCK up the fluid instead of having the fluid provided to it by gravity, that's why the pump should be below the reservoir or have the column of water in the reservoir as high or higher in elevation than the pump if possible, I thought this was something we went over months ago via PM? Going by that pic you posted, the top of the water column/res is just even with the pump.....

And even with that thin tubing, the pump can't generate a high enough flow rate to keep the nano in suspension.

I say take mayhems up on the offer, but I think the pump is the ultimate issue along with the tubing routing and res placement, I don't think it's any one thing, but a bunch of them causing the problem and compounding it.


----------



## hftjmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Here's a quick Aurora 2 video I made, and a couple of pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Does the Aurora 2 look much more clear than the original aurora does to anyone else? From what I can tell the original almost looked like a pastel with the reflective particles in it while this one looks more like x1 with the reflective particles in it. These are the first shots of Aurora 2 that im seeing so it could just be the lighting and color of coolant but from what I can tell it almost looks clear in the tubes. Also if possible could someone post more pics of aurora 2 in different colors as I cant seem to find any retailers that have the new pictures posted and I am considering getting that or pastel to refill my loop over the summer.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hftjmac*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Does the Aurora 2 look much more clear than the original aurora does to anyone else? From what I can tell the original almost looked like a pastel with the reflective particles in it while this one looks more like x1 with the reflective particles in it. These are the first shots of Aurora 2 that im seeing so it could just be the lighting and color of coolant but from what I can tell it almost looks clear in the tubes. Also if possible could someone post more pics of aurora 2 in different colors as I cant seem to find any retailers that have the new pictures posted and I am considering getting that or pastel to refill my loop over the summer.


I believe it is less dense than Aurora 1, so that may result in it being more translucent. I personally really like it and plan on using Aurora 2 in all future builds as long as the aesthetics work for the particular build.


----------



## z0ki

Hrmmm guys my acrylic build which is already being up and running, and I have 3 alphacool rads in my 900D, how the hell would I be able to re-flush the rads and get it prepped for Mayhems Pastel? Do i really need to remove the rads and flush them? Or can I fill up my res with vinager, bicarb etc then flush?


----------



## M3TAl

I tore all 3 of my alphacool rads out and filled them with vinegar plugged them up with stop plugs and let them sit for hours, shaked them every now and then. Then some tap water flush, then filled with bicarb let it sit 10-20min shake it around, and finally flushed with distilled.

Haven't gone back to pastel yet but my new tubing hasn't turned green like durelene did.


----------



## z0ki

I'm not really looking forward to tearing mine all down though, it took too much work lol, wouldn't it be sufficient to just let the loop run at max for a few hours, flush, then repeat a few times?


----------



## M3TAl

Mine was much, much easier to tear down and put back together the second time. The initial build, oh man what a major pain that was







. Draining is so much easier now... I've drained this thing so many times now could probably do it with my eyes closed


----------



## z0ki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Mine was much, much easier to tear down and put back together the second time. The initial build, oh man what a major pain that was
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Draining is so much easier now... I've drained this thing so many times now could probably do it with my eyes closed


Yeah true, I guess it gives me a chance to rearrange somethings I'm not happy with and add some more things in the process. I guess I'll have time to plan it till I'm ready









Cheers for the input mate


----------



## Kokin

Hey guys, I'm planning on adding Mayhem's Blue dye to my Ice White Pastel. What shade of blue would I expect? Would it be like Blue Berry or a darker or lighter blue? It's just the regular Blue, not Dark Blue or Ocean Blue.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm planning on adding Mayhem's Blue dye to my Ice White Pastel. What shade of blue would I expect? Would it be like Blue Berry or a darker or lighter blue? It's just the regular Blue, not Dark Blue or Ocean Blue.


Depends on how much dye you put in lol. I think if you got enough in there it would be darker than the blueberry blue tho


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Depends on how much dye you put in lol. I think if you got enough in there it would be darker than the blueberry blue tho


Is the Blueberry based on the regular blue dye or a mixture of the other blue dyes? I plan to do it drop by drop of course, but I'd like to keep it similar to the Blueberry color.


----------



## M4ng03z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Now if none of that works and we've tried every method i can think off we have another weapon we can send you how ever im not prepared to discuss it in a public forum atm. So its up to you the offer is open
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Mick


Did no one else notice that, or are we just choosing to ignore it?


----------



## Jimhans1

I just chose to ignore it, no sense in hounding him about it, I'm sure in due time he will spill the beans.


----------



## M4ng03z

Oh, yeah, definitely. Bothering him about it is just cruel and useless.
I was just excited and wanted to see if anyone else was too.


----------



## Jimhans1

I am always excited for new Mayhems stuff. Placed an order on Monday in fact for $300 worth of it from PPCS. Had to try some of the aurora 2 in several colors. Plus a bunch of pastel.


----------



## Roikyou

I've been slowly reading through this forum and I've seen where people mix with distilled or deionized water. Which is better or does it matter? I recently went to pastel white mixed with distilled and curious if there is any issues with distilled.

Thanks


----------



## Jimhans1

No functional difference when mixed correctly.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> No functional difference when mixed correctly.


Thanks, kind of what I thought. I think it's a rare occurrence where the PH goes out of balance and first though was the water. (from previous threads)


----------



## Jimhans1

I personally feel the PH issues have come down to hardware prep more than anything, I've used tons of Pastel and X1 in systems with rads and blocks from every maker almost, and most usually with Alphacool rads, and never had one issue with Mayhems doing weird stuff. But as usual, YMMV.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I personally feel the PH issues have come down to hardware prep more than anything, I've used tons of Pastel and X1 in systems with rads and blocks from every maker almost, and most usually with Alphacool rads, and never had one issue with Mayhems doing weird stuff. But as usual, YMMV.


Moved from XSPC rads to Alphacool, so far so good, I've flushed a few times but I still see a little blue from the previous coolant but no drastic color changes or issues but it's only been a week running so far. Temps have been great.


----------



## Mayhem

pH is all about prep of your system. if you prep it well you will have no issues







.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> pH is all about prep of your system. if you prep it well you will have no issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I've gone from Swiftech UV blue, noticed funny chunks or something, decided to move to another direction. Flushed with distilled and ran with distilled for only a couple weeks. After recent install of card and last acrylic tube runs, I decided to go with the pastel white. I have yet to check the PH and the blue is just a light tint but I know it's my mistake. I'll monitor it as I always do, if I see color changes, I'll either check the PH or flush and start over. Or do you suggested to check the PH just in case to see where it's at?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I personally feel the PH issues have come down to hardware prep more than anything, I've used tons of Pastel and X1 in systems with rads and blocks from every maker almost, and most usually with Alphacool rads, and never had one issue with Mayhems doing weird stuff. But as usual, YMMV.


My mileage definitely varied with these Alphacool rads and Pastel white. If I had known about this potential issue in the beginning I would of done the whole vinegar and bicarb rad cleaning first time







. But not knowing I only did distilled and shook the everliving crap out of them.


----------



## Jimhans1

I've not actually done a vinegar and bicarbonate cleaning, I use tubing and adapter to hook rads up to kitchen faucet, then run it hot for 20minutes/cold 20minutes back and forth 6-7 times final rinse is just distilled, and my pastel is still bright as day one. Maybe it's just luck, but that's the last three builds.....


----------



## pompss

anyone have experience with aurora and Acrylic Tubing???
Also i would like to know if the 100% acrylic tube will become a little yellow like the lrt advance ??


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> anyone have experience with aurora and Acrylic Tubing???
> Also i would like to know if the 100% acrylic tube will become a little yellow like the lrt advance ??


Acrylic tube has no downfalls period, with the exception of the time it takes to cut/bend.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M4ng03z*
> 
> Did no one else notice that, or are we just choosing to ignore it?


Ignoring what?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I've been slowly reading through this forum and I've seen where people mix with distilled or deionized water. Which is better or does it matter? I recently went to pastel white mixed with distilled and curious if there is any issues with distilled.
> 
> Thanks


Distilled water is... well distilled. Deionized water has, as the name suggests, had any ions removed. If you aerate deionized water it tends to form carbonic acid (water that's absorbed carbon from carbon dioxide in the air) which /can/ lower pH in extreme cases but typically won't be a huge issue. Deionized water will also give you really REALLY messed up pH readings with a digital meter, like 2 or 13 or anywhere in between. There aren't enough ions for digital meters to actually get a proper reading so it can be wacky. Technically deionized water does not have a pH when first processed, as it's had all it's ions removed, and is also technically dielectric. It will eventually re-ionize over time, and as a result become an electrical conductor. There really isn't a point to use deionized water, distilled water is fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Thanks, kind of what I thought. I think it's a rare occurrence where the PH goes out of balance and first though was the water. (from previous threads)


Generally it's system prep, but keep in mind pH isn't the only thing that can wack out coolants. Take copper sulphate and ethylene glycol for example, if you carefully add copper suphate to an EG based coolant careful to keep the pH above 6.3 you're still going to have the gelatinous monstrosity that is gunk.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I've not actually done a vinegar and bicarbonate cleaning, I use tubing and adapter to hook rads up to kitchen faucet, then run it hot for 20minutes/cold 20minutes back and forth 6-7 times final rinse is just distilled, and my pastel is still bright as day one. Maybe it's just luck, but that's the last three builds.....


----------



## Jimhans1

Why the crying face regarding my post Zythe??


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Why the crying face regarding my post Zythe??


Because tap water can have a whole mess of contaminants in it, including even chlorine.


----------



## Jimhans1

That's why it was flushed again with distilled afterwards several times. And like I said, I've had zero issues with my mayhems coolants.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That's why it was flushed again with distilled afterwards several times. And like I said, I've had zero issues with my mayhems coolants.


Dito. Same exact method as you.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Because tap water can have a whole mess of contaminants in it, including even chlorine.


And it is also the fastest way to get gunk and crap out of any part in your loop. And it is the cheapest option. So instead of doing 5-6 distilled rinses, you can just do 1-2.

Also, you can create a lot more pressure with the tap running through than you can with a distilled flush.

Never had a single problem with Mayhems, and I flush all my stuff in my kitchen sink.


----------



## M3TAl

Link to this adapter for the sink? I've looked for one in the past and just couldn't find it or didn't know what to look for.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Never had a single problem with Mayhems, and I flush all my stuff in my kitchen sink.
> 
> 
> 
> Ditto. how ever we do have the Alphacool rads and do flushed them very aggressively before use how ever that is the only rad we do it to. Our EK, XSPC, Thermochill, Mayhems and other named rads are all just done via tap water then ultra Pure. How ever if we ran water we now use part 2 of the blitz kit because they doest half shift it out of the system quickly.
Click to expand...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Link to this adapter for the sink? I've looked for one in the past and just couldn't find it or didn't know what to look for.


I use this
http://t.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-15-16-in-27M-5-64-in-27F-x-3-4-in-GHTM-or-55-64-in-27M-Chrome-Multi-Thread-Garden-Hose-Aerator-Adapter-9D00010513/204321954/
With this to go down to normal WC tubing
http://t.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-1-2-in-Lead-Free-Brass-FGH-x-Barb-Adapter-LFA-684/203468414/


----------



## BradleyW

Made some changes to my loop and refilled with X1. All is well!
Before:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






After:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## 15goudreau

That's super clean. Nice work


----------



## BradleyW

Thanks bro.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nice and clean


----------



## BradleyW

Thanks man! It took me days of planning, cleaning and rebuilding.








I certainly had a lot of cleaning to do!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



A lot of dust!


Gave the chassis a shower.

Quickly tested the system to see if all hardware was working.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Thanks man! It took me days of planning, cleaning and rebuilding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I certainly had a lot of cleaning to do!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Gross!
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of dust!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip


That was painful to look at.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Somewhere I think on YouTube or something I saw Linus from ltt, say that push vs pull there isn't much of a difference, and that cleaning is a lot easier with pull.

Saying that, to be honest I still have mine in push just because the build looks better, but if that doesn't matter so much, try flipping them to pull, hopefully Linus was right, and you won't notice a difference and have less to clean up


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Somewhere I think on YouTube or something I saw Linus from ltt, say that push vs pull there isn't much of a difference, and that cleaning is a lot easier with pull.
> 
> Saying that, to be honest I still have mine in push just because the build looks better, but if that doesn't matter so much, try flipping them to pull, hopefully Linus was right, and you won't notice a difference and have less to clean up


Performance wise it shouldn't matter as it won't change the pressure distribution on the blades. Functionality wise it can make a pretty big difference depending on the fans. The bearing of some fans requires the "lift" from the impeller to function properly and some fans have issues in certain orientations, the NB ELoops in pull come to mind if I recall accurately.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Somewhere I think on YouTube or something I saw Linus from ltt, say that push vs pull there isn't much of a difference, and that cleaning is a lot easier with pull.
> 
> Saying that, to be honest I still have mine in push just because the build looks better, but if that doesn't matter so much, try flipping them to pull, hopefully Linus was right, and you won't notice a difference and have less to clean up


Sorry man, but I run Push Pull on the Front 360 Rad. (The dusty Rad).
Since then, I've added basic grade dust filters and I switch the fans off during basic system use. (I keep the fans on my other Rad active at all times on low fan speed).


----------



## Jeronbernal

I run push pull on the front but only afford space for push on the top XD I feel your pain when it comes to cleaning, but thank God for dust filters huh?

One thing I don't understand so much, is what is the use of a exhaust dust filter? Am I wrong or is it semi pointless? I guess I can see it from stopping stuff from falling in like pet hair if you have pets, or saw dust/acrylic dust if you have your PC next to a cnc or wood router.

For my next build I ordered nb Multiframe 1850, how are they for push? I didn't look into them much except for see someone use them at some point, and a build on Mdpc use them, any good? Or should I just stick to my extra sp120 hpe's I have for the next build?


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Anybody have a picture of pastel ice white dyed with emerald green?


----------



## M4ng03z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Anybody have a picture of pastel ice white dyed with emerald green?


No, but now I want some! That sounds awesome


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Some Orange Supernova Aurora 2


I wish there was a clear version of that Aurora 2 with hints of that vegetable extract to make distilled water shimmer and swirl. If I went with white in my column of flow indicators, you wouldn't be able to see the pin wheels spinning inside, which is kind of the main reason why I incorporated them in my build.

EDIT: Sorry for the previous version of this post. I apparently must have been dozing off last night while typing, and started repeating myself, among other things.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I wish there was a clear version of that Aurora 2 with hints of that vegetable extract to make distilled water shimmer and swirl. If I went with white, If I went with white, it would be pointmetssIt would be rather pointless to have my column of flow indicators if you can't see the pin wheels spinning inside.


The Supernova A2 will do you proud, semi transparent.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I wish there was a clear version of that Aurora 2 with hints of that vegetable extract to make distilled water shimmer and swirl. If I went with white, If I went with white, it would be pointmetssIt would be rather pointless to have my column of flow indicators if you can't see the pin wheels spinning inside.


Do NOT use aurora with a mechanical flow indicator, the particles will clog the bearing making it all but stop entirely.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Do NOT use aurora with a mechanical flow indicator, the particles will clog the bearing making it all but stop entirely.


Even Aurora 2?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Even Aurora 2?


I've seen it happen with even pastel. Inline flow meters are really the only thing you want to use with nano fluids, the Koolance ones are the only ones I've seen mick suggest. The Aquabus has a differential pressure flow meter attachment which in theory should work fine, but their gear can get expensive fast.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Well that's disheartening to hear







. I guess when you really think of the bigger picture and what a slightly thicker fluid like that is capable of doing to a free flowing mechanical system like a flow indicator or a micro sized water channel inside a water block, it brings you right back to reality.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Well that's disheartening to hear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I guess when you really think of the bigger picture and what a slightly thicker fluid like that is capable of doing to a free flowing mechanical system like a flow indicator or a micro sized water channel inside a water block, it brings you right back to reality.


Aurora has no issues with clogging water blocks. It's not the fluid that causes issues. Aurora is a nanofluid meaning it has tons of little solid particles in suspension within a liquid. The particles can get stuck in and clog most mechanical flow meter's bearings.

Aurora has issues with some water blocks due to the injection plate having deadzones where flow is stagnant. THe particles can fall out of suspension here.

The particles themselves are only a few dozen nanometers thick, that is WAY to small to actually clog a .508mm thick lane in a waterblock which is the absolute smallest lane you can get with a CNC mill, even if you used a skiving machine to carve the channels aurora would be to small clog them.

The problem with bearings is once the particles get in there they can't get out so they just build up.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Well that's disheartening to hear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I guess when you really think of the bigger picture and what a slightly thicker fluid like that is capable of doing to a free flowing mechanical system like a flow indicator or a micro sized water channel inside a water block, it brings you right back to reality.
> 
> 
> 
> Aurora has no issues with clogging water blocks. It's not the fluid that causes issues. Aurora is a nanofluid meaning it has tons of little solid particles in suspension within a liquid. The particles can get stuck in and clog most mechanical flow meter's bearings.
> 
> Aurora has issues with some water blocks due to the injection plate having deadzones where flow is stagnant. THe particles can fall out of suspension here.
> 
> The particles themselves are only a few dozen nanometers thick, that is WAY to small to actually clog a .508mm thick lane in a waterblock which is the absolute smallest lane you can get with a CNC mill, even if you used a skiving machine to carve the channels aurora would be to small clog them.
> 
> *The problem with bearings is once the particles get in there they can't get out so they just build up*.
Click to expand...

I've got 3 or 4 of the Koolance flowmeters that were used with Aurora that no longer spin, or spin wayyyy too slowly for the flow rate, to back this up. . . . . Was an expensive lesson to learn

The ones in my pastel white test setups still work fine, even though the particles precipitate out when left alone long enough. When powered back up, they are easily recovered and haven't borked the flow meters.

Darlene


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've got 3 or 4 of the Koolance flowmeters that were used with Aurora that no longer spin, or spin wayyyy too slowly for the flow rate, to back this up. . . . . Was an expensive lesson to learn
> 
> The ones in my pastel white test setups still work fine, even though the particles precipitate out when left alone long enough. When powered back up, they are easily recovered and haven't borked the flow meters.
> 
> Darlene


Yikes, good to know. I just wonder if Aurora 2 would be any better with them. I've got some left over, maybe I'll set up a mock loop and try it out .


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've got 3 or 4 of the Koolance flowmeters that were used with Aurora that no longer spin, or spin wayyyy too slowly for the flow rate, to back this up. . . . . Was an expensive lesson to learn
> 
> The ones in my pastel white test setups still work fine, even though the particles precipitate out when left alone long enough. When powered back up, they are easily recovered and haven't borked the flow meters.
> 
> Darlene


Newer aurora uses smaller particles, so it will probably not have issues any more. The particles can go through a coffee filter now.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Yikes, good to know. I just wonder if Aurora 2 would be any better with them. I've got some left over, maybe I'll set up a mock loop and try it out .


I second this suggestion.







I'd like to see that.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've got 3 or 4 of the Koolance flowmeters that were used with Aurora that no longer spin, or spin wayyyy too slowly for the flow rate, to back this up. . . . . Was an expensive lesson to learn
> 
> The ones in my pastel white test setups still work fine, even though the particles precipitate out when left alone long enough. When powered back up, they are easily recovered and haven't borked the flow meters.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Newer aurora uses smaller particles, so it will probably not have issues any more. The particles can go through a coffee filter now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Yikes, good to know. I just wonder if Aurora 2 would be any better with them. I've got some left over, maybe I'll set up a mock loop and try it out .
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I second this suggestion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to see that.
Click to expand...

I'd certainly second the suggestion that you set up a test bit of kit to see how the new A2 does with flow meters, especially in a system that's not on 24/7.

Interesting that the new particles are that small. . . . .

After finding that I'd trashed the flow meters in my test setup, *it took me an afternoon and a box of coffee filters* to get all the particles out of the aurora, effectively turning it into X-1. It's not an easy job and I can imagine what the trash pickup guys wondered at all that red mess.

Darlene


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Newer aurora uses smaller particles, so it will probably not have issues any more. The particles can go through a coffee filter now.


Is that how you clean your Aurora 2 fluid in your lab?









EDIT: What's that ETA on the Blitz cleaning mixture? In what way is it better than say 5:1 water vinegar and then finishing off with 2 tablespoons of sodium bicarbonate per liter of water? How is it functionally different than said mixture?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd certainly second the suggestion that you set up a test bit of kit to see how the new A2 does with flow meters, especially in a system that's not on 24/7.
> 
> Interesting that the new particles are that small. . . . .
> 
> After finding that I'd trashed the flow meters in my test setup, *it took me an afternoon and a box of coffee filters* to get all the particles out of the aurora, effectively turning it into X-1. It's not an easy job and I can imagine what the trash pickup guys wondered at all that red mess.
> 
> Darlene


New aurora also no longer uses X1 at it's based, it's new formula has a liquid designed specifically for aurora.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> *Is that how you clean your Aurora 2 fluid in your lab?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> EDIT: What's that ETA on the Blitz cleaning mixture? In what way is it better than say 5:1 water vinegar and then finishing off with 2 tablespoons of sodium bicarbonate per liter of water? How is it functionally different than said mixture?


What lab?

Vinegar is 90% water, 8% acetic acid, and 2% fermentation biproduct. Acetic acid is VERY potent stuff, it will literally melt your face off in high concentrations. It can also apparently form copper acetate which can be harmful to your coolant according to bneg. The solvent in blits kit shouldn't react with copper, but will completely obliterate nickle plating. Only use it in the rads. Don't know the exact differences in effects of part two, all I know is it's an alkaline material that doesn't react with anything used in liquid cooling and neutralizes in any acidic parts.


----------



## giltyler

Compatibility question.
I will be using Mayhems Ice White Pastel fluid and the Koolance INS-FM17N and their SEN-AP008G 10K @ 25C G1/4 stop plug temperature probe will I have issues with the listed products.

Also is the Koolance temperature plug compatible with the Lamptron CW611 controller.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

@Jameswalt1 - Thanks for trying that test out. Much like my current PC, my new build will also run 24/7 as well.

Although it may look complicated, my loop is pretty simple and straight forward. I was just hoping that there was something in the Mayhem product line that might best suit my needs. I like the alien-like organic nature of the Aurora 2, but at the same time I don't want to compromise the clarity of the distilled I'm using by adding color. Or, adding anything that might compromise the flow of my 5 indicators. The reason why I want to maintain the clarity is because the white indicator wheels match my white exhaust fan out back, so I want to maintain that color consistency. You otherwise couldn't see the wheels if the flow chambers were filled with colored Aurora 2 fluid - unless Mayhem created a clear, transparent version.

My guess is that mineral oil might give me a similar effect if I mixed distilled together with it, but with my luck I'd probably encounter a couple of dead zones where the oil will sit and not flow as I would expect. So I guess for now, I'll just be happy with what I have... Unless Mayhems comes out with something else that changes my mind.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I wish there was a clear version of that Aurora 2 with hints of that vegetable extract to make distilled water shimmer and swirl. If I went with white, If I went with white, it would be pointmetssIt would be rather pointless to have my column of flow indicators if you can't see the pin wheels spinning inside.


its actually aurora 2 available to buy??


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> *What lab?*
> 
> Vinegar is 90% water, 8% acetic acid, and 2% fermentation biproduct. Acetic acid is VERY potent stuff, it will literally melt your face off in high concentrations. It can also apparently form copper acetate which can be harmful to your coolant according to bneg. The solvent in blits kit shouldn't react with copper, but will completely obliterate nickle plating. Only use it in the rads. Don't know the exact differences in effects of part two, all I know is it's an alkaline material that doesn't react with anything used in liquid cooling and neutralizes in any acidic parts.


Just sounded like you've had some time to play around with a lot of this stuff









The new blitz seems to be a two step process first hitting it with an acid and then a base. Vinigar and then baking soda is an acid and then a salt buffer. What is the purpose of the base in the blitz solution? Is it just to return the pH back to ~7 or does it have some more cleaning properties.

The last loop I had with alphacool radiators and pastel white turned blue/green on me after 6 months. I flushed and flushed and flushed with DI water but it apparently didn't fix the problem. The inside of the radiators were coated with a green patina that looked something like this.



At this point, should I strip off all that with a vinegar + baking soda flush or just skip the vinegar and go straight to the baking soda to ensure a neutral pH? I'm positive whatever was in those radiators that was water soluble is long gone by now. Wouldn't stripping the coating cause it to come back and then dye the color of the coolant again? If I were to leave the patina on the inside, would that still dye the coolant blue green?

Acetic acid will always be "just vinegar" to me. The COOH makes it look harmless.








Now, phosphoric acid on the other hand, that stuff is scary. Literally had a face shield, goggles, rubber gloves and a respirator on when working with 95% of that stuff last week.


----------



## Mayhem

Part 2 of the system not only brings the PH back to around 7 it all has a highly effective surfactant that picks up all the crap in a system and suspends it so that when you empty the system out it takes all the crud with it. You'll notice this with the amount of foam it creates if you're not careful. Also it is a ultra strong biocide to kill off anything left over ..


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Part 2 of the system not only brings the PH back to around 7 it all has a highly effective surfactant that picks up all the crap in a system and suspends it so that when you empty the system out it takes all the crud with it. You'll notice this with the amount of foam it creates if you're not careful. Also it is a ultra strong biocide to kill off anything left over ..


any updates on the troubles you were having with US customs? I have 3 360 rads ready to get clean


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> any updates on the troubles you were having with US customs? I have 3 360 rads ready to get clean


Hehe wondering the same, i got a couple of rads to clean as well


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh we've had a nightmare ... we have tried again this time we have changed the mix so they are not as strong but still very effective The ppm has changed). The new versions should get though customs with no issues but please read the instructions in the box as they differ from the first set due to the ratios needed to be used for part 1 of the kit.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Just sounded like you've had some time to play around with a lot of this stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new blitz seems to be a two step process first hitting it with an acid and then a base. Vinigar and then baking soda is an acid and then a salt buffer. What is the purpose of the base in the blitz solution? Is it just to return the pH back to ~7 or does it have some more cleaning properties.
> 
> The last loop I had with alphacool radiators and pastel white turned blue/green on me after 6 months. I flushed and flushed and flushed with DI water but it apparently didn't fix the problem. The inside of the radiators were coated with a green patina that looked something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, should I strip off all that with a vinegar + baking soda flush or just skip the vinegar and go straight to the baking soda to ensure a neutral pH? I'm positive whatever was in those radiators that was water soluble is long gone by now. Wouldn't stripping the coating cause it to come back and then dye the color of the coolant again? If I were to leave the patina on the inside, would that still dye the coolant blue green?
> 
> Acetic acid will always be "just vinegar" to me. The COOH makes it look harmless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, phosphoric acid on the other hand, that stuff is scary. Literally had a face shield, goggles, rubber gloves and a respirator on when working with 95% of that stuff last week.


Acetic acid is really potent stuff... In higher concentrations it will literally melt your face off. It's also flammable so if you pour it on someones face then throw a match at them you will literally melt their face off while you're melting their face off. Gotta be thorough I guess. XD


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh we've had a nightmare ... we have tried again this time we have changed the mix so they are not as strong but still very effective The ppm has changed). The new versions should get though customs with no issues but please read the instructions in the box as they differ from the first set due to the ratios needed to be used for part 1 of the kit.


Thanks for the updates. Will definitely read the manual when they come in








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Acetic acid is really potent stuff... In higher concentrations it will literally melt your face off. It's also flammable so if you pour it on someones face then throw a match at them you will literally melt their face off while you're melting their face off. Gotta be thorough I guess. XD


O.O That's just overdoin it.


----------



## Mayhem

So if we used Acetic acid we called of called it face off ..... Nice


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Looking at that AC rad,I can't help but think they don't even bother flushing correctly after manufacture.....


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Looking at that AC rad,I can't help but think they don't even bother flushing correctly after manufacture.....


Assuming you're referring to Alphacool and not aquacomputer that's precisely the reason they developed Blits.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> So if we used Acetic acid we called of called it face off ..... Nice


"This just in, a nameless individual has been spotted around Gothem terrorizing the city. It's been reported that he allegedly spilled a solvent from the coolant manufacture 'Mayhems' line 'Face Off' cleaning system. No word yet on the identity of this individual but he has reportedly been calling himself two face as the solvent apparently was only spilled on one side of his face."


----------



## Devildog83

I just finished this with Mayhems Pastel Ice white - Lot's of got milk comments.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> I just finished this with Mayhems Pastel Ice white - Lot's of got milk comments.


That's sweet though for sure. Care for one more milk comment? Silly Devildog, milk is for cats!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> That's sweet though for sure. Care for one more milk comment? Silly Devildog, milk is for cats!


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> That's sweet though for sure. Care for one more milk comment? Silly Devildog, milk is for cats!


most cats are actually lactose intolerant. they get silly runs if you feed them milk in most cases. i learned that the hard way......


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> That's sweet though for sure. Care for one more milk comment? Silly Devildog, milk is for cats!
> 
> 
> 
> most cats are actually lactose intolerant. they get silly runs if you feed them milk in most cases. i learned that the hard way......
Click to expand...

Most animals are lactose intolerant of other species milk....humans included.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Most animals are lactose intolerant of other species milk....humans included.


So you're saying I should use Almond milk?


----------



## Doc3379

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> So you're saying I should use Almond milk?


Vanilla Almond milk on cereal is where its at. Just sayin.

It's also really good in White Russians.


----------



## Mayhem

lol this reminds me of some sample bottles we just sent out to testers the other day hahaha. we named them something we cannot really say or show on here.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Most animals are lactose intolerant of other species milk....humans included.
> 
> 
> 
> So you're saying I should use Almond milk?
Click to expand...

No,Drink gold cap jersey milk....milk of the gods


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,Drink gold cap jersey milk....milk of the gods


I only drink chocolate milk but the colors would not match.


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

When I had the Aurora (Supernova) in my system, I always got this " is that spider Milk in your system". I made me LOL alot.


----------



## Nightingale

Some clarification please. I intend to get some Yellow Pastel. Some people have said that the Mayhem can have issues with the jet plates in the water blocks getting tide up and some how the nano particles separate and become concentrate or something like that.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> Some clarification please. I intend to get some Yellow Pastel. Some people have said that the Mayhem can have issues with the jet plates in the water blocks getting tide up and some how the nano particles separate and become concentrate or something like that.


Pastel does not have issues with blocks with jetplates, Aurora could have issues if you didn't set up your loop correctly, but with 2+ years using pastel with blocks that have jetplates (EK Supremacy blocks) I've never had an issue with it.


----------



## Nightingale

Thank you for conformation.


----------



## Jimhans1




----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*


Me too, I just filled my first loop with ICE white so it's good to here. Ok it's not all Ice white, there is some distilled water in there too.


----------



## RpeeKooz

Hey guys few questions about mayhem.I live in Australia so I have to order from the USA.I've got 2 bottle of red and some dye. My system holds just over 2 liters. How do I make 2 bottles go further? Make it abit weaker then add dye or will that throw of the nice red colour. I don't really wanna pay 80 bucks for shipping for a 20 buck product.....
Any ideas how I could achieve this?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> Hey guys few questions about mayhem.I live in Australia so I have to order from the USA.I've got 2 bottle of red and some dye. My system holds just over 2 liters. How do I make 2 bottles go further? Make it abit weaker then add dye or will that throw of the nice red colour. I don't really wanna pay 80 bucks for shipping for a 20 buck product.....
> Any ideas how I could achieve this?


What coolant specifically? Mayhems currently has four different coolants available on the market. On a side note you don't have to order from the U.S. to get Mayhems products: http://www.thekoolroom.com/category/coolant-additive--dye/

TheKoolRoom is Aussie based and carries mayhems.


----------



## RpeeKooz

Sorry just the pastel red. Ye cool room hasn't had stock of the colour for the last 4 month's.now it does have stock I might buy a few more bottles while I can how long they last UN opened? A year in a good environment


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> Sorry just the pastel red. Ye cool room hasn't had stock of the colour for the last 4 month's.now it does have stock I might buy a few more bottles while I can how long they last UN opened? A year in a good environment


It can be stored for up to three years﻿, within in a cool dry environment


----------



## Mayhem

send [email protected] an email with your request they may be able to ship to you cheaper esp if no one has stock locally. What they will do is find the cheapest shipping price for you (we always do this). What you must remember though is cheaper means longer wait and probably no tracking.


----------



## kcuestag

Let's say I want to get rid of Mayhems Ice White Pastel on my loop and go back to distilled water (In that case, I'd also go for new tubing).

What would be the best way to clean the loop, take everything apart and rinse it, or can I clean it without taking everything apart from the case?

Still not sure what to do, I love the pastel white, but I hate the fact that my tubing (Advanced LRT) turns a bit yellowish after a few months, and I don't want to go acrylic because I know It'll be hard for me.


----------



## DarthBaggins

In the case of discoloration in your tubing I'd just break it down and flush/clean each component then do now tubing with distilled and a coil or additive


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Let's say I want to get rid of Mayhems Ice White Pastel on my loop and go back to distilled water (In that case, I'd also go for new tubing).
> 
> What would be the best way to clean the loop, take everything apart and rinse it, or can I clean it without taking everything apart from the case?
> 
> Still not sure what to do, I love the pastel white, but I hate the fact that my tubing (Advanced LRT) turns a bit yellowish after a few months, and I don't want to go acrylic because I know It'll be hard for me.


Acrylic isn't that bad, you should give it a go









If you did want to clean the system, then I'd recommend doing the same procedure that you'd do to prep your system to use pastel.


----------



## Jimhans1

I don't understand the yellowing issue, I've been running Advanced LRT with Ice White in my little system for 6+ months without and changes to either tubing clarity or fluid color, my loop consists of an EK M6I nickel Plexi block, a nickel Plexi 780Ti block, two alphacool ST30 240mm rads, and a Bitspower 250 DDC pump/res combo.


----------



## VSG

I have had the yellowing issue also with just distilled in my loop, I was thinking it was from sunlight hitting the tubing to be honest but maybe I am wrong.

Jim, with the tubing having exposed to Pastel, how can you say it is just as clear? I would have thought some color would have transferred over permanently? If not, I will have to consider Pastel or X1 if that has a similar effect.


----------



## Jimhans1

Because I have taken the loop apart to tinker with stuff, which has necessitated me draining the loop, and my tubing to drain the loop was a piece from the same box of LRT Advanced. They looked exactly the same.


----------



## VSG

Your tubing wasn't exposed to direct sunlight by any chance, was it? I am still wondering about the cause of the yellowing.


----------



## Jimhans1

No, none of my PCs are anywhere near a window, but I have transported the Ice White rig to a couple of shows, so it has had some direct sunlight, albeit marginal.


----------



## VSG

Thanks for that!


----------



## Jimhans1




----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> No, none of my PCs are anywhere near a window, but I have transported the Ice White rig to a couple of shows, so it has had some direct sunlight, albeit marginal.


What shows have you been to around here?


----------



## Jimhans1

Locally none really (as there aren't usually any), but have done several of the interstate LAN events and computex last year.


----------



## Mayhem

Our advance LRT has been turning yellowish as well. :/ not in direct sun light how ever we found as soon as you start going over 28/30c (in line water temp) the colour starts to change.on the tubing. We don't think it has anything to do with UV light (being that UV A,B or C).


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Our advance LRT has been turning yellowish as well. :/ not in direct sun light how ever we found as soon as you start going over 28/30c (in line water temp) the colour starts to change.on the tubing. We don't think it has anything to do with UV light (being that UV A,B or C).


Does running the PrimoChill system prep through it prior to filling help the tubing at all?


----------



## Blackops_2

Well that doesn't sound good







haven't used my 7/16 x 5/8 yet but hope it doesn't turn yellow.


----------



## error-id10t

What's the concern with the LRT tubing now... I thought this was the good one!! I did run the system prep when I first got it, then drained it later and nowadays of course run with X1. So is this just with this Pastel stuff or across the board?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> lol this reminds me of some sample bottles we just sent out to testers the other day hahaha. we named them something we cannot really say or show on here.


Please tell me it is related to a bodily fluid or else I will have just been thinking dirty for no reason.









My Advanced LRT tubing gets a bit yellow as well. This is the second instance that I have noticed it and the first time was with distilled water only, second time with Mayhem's Pastel White. My system was cleaned/rinsed with distilled water as well as a bicarb treatment for when I used Pastel White. I do have my system next to a window, but never had direct sunlight on this side of the house (facing north).

I redid my loop and added an EK block/backplate to my R9 290. I'm reusing Ice White Pastel(slightly tinted blue) and adding Mayhem's Blue Dye to it (regular, not dark nor ocean blue). Second picture is about half the bottle, while the third picture is the full 15ml of dye. The royal blue is slightly darker in real life compared to the photo, but I'm really happy with how it turned out. I recorded a video of the dye-ing process, but I'll probably edit and post the video once I finally make a build log next week.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Our advance LRT has been turning yellowish as well. :/ not in direct sun light how ever we found as soon as you start going over 28/30c (in line water temp) the colour starts to change.on the tubing. We don't think it has anything to do with UV light (being that UV A,B or C).


Sadly that's around my idle water temperatures here in Spain now that heat is here... It's either acrylic tubing or coloured tubing to prevent this.


----------



## cyphon

Trying to decide what to do o my current build. It is a Blackhawks theme

Here are the jerseys for those unfamiliar
























So the question is:

White fittings w/ red x1 or red fittings w/ white pastel


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Trying to decide what to do o my current build. It is a Blackhawks theme
> 
> Here are the jerseys for those unfamiliar
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the question is:
> 
> White fittings w/ red x1 or red fittings w/ white pastel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would go red fittings with white pastel to keep the red as an accent like the heatsinks on the ram....so you end up with bits & pieces in red and the nice white loop.

My


----------



## Kokin

It's hard to beat white fittings though. I vote for white fittings and red pastel (if you can match that shade of red).


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Most animals are lactose intolerant of other species milk....humans included.
> 
> 
> 
> So you're saying I should use Almond milk?
Click to expand...

Nah, he's saying you should get the milk right at the source


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Our advance LRT has been turning yellowish as well. :/ not in direct sun light how ever we found as soon as you start going over 28/30c (in line water temp) the colour starts to change.on the tubing. We don't think it has anything to do with UV light (being that UV A,B or C).


Well that pretty much covers everyone not living in the frozen Tundra. Their Sysprep does not do anything to prevent it, I have used it with the exact tubing that was going yellow.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Trying to decide what to do o my current build. It is a Blackhawks theme
> 
> Here are the jerseys for those unfamiliar
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the question is:
> 
> White fittings w/ red x1 or red fittings w/ white pastel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Given that your ram and all the other stuffs is either rad or black, my votes on the red fittings and white coolant. All the bits and pieces are red. Since white and black are such non-chinchilla colours having a coolant that's not the same color as anything else shouldn't clash with anything since, again, it's such a non-chinchilla colour. If you went with white fittings on the other hand... IDK, just seems like having all red bits and pieces, red coolant, and random white fittings would look awkward. Just my two cents.

Edit: DID MY SMARTPHONE SERIOUSLY CORRECT NONCHALANT TO NON-CHINCHILLA?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Given that your ram and all the other stuffs is either rad or black, my votes on the red fittings and white coolant. All the bits and pieces are red. Since white and black are such non-chinchilla colours having a coolant that's not the same color as anything else shouldn't clash with anything since, again, it's such a non-chinchilla colour. If you went with white fittings on the other hand... IDK, just seems like having all red bits and pieces, red coolant, and random white fittings would look awkward. Just my two cents.
> 
> Edit: DID MY SMARTPHONE SERIOUSLY CORRECT NONCHALANT TO NON-CHINCHILLA?


Lol, was gonna say, idk what a chinchilla color is, but the rest of everything makes sense









I am starting to lean towards this too (others have made similar comments in other threads as well). Guess the other question is, do I get red covers for the d5 now, lol


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Lol, was gonna say, idk what a chinchilla color is, but the rest of everything makes sense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am starting to lean towards this too (others have made similar comments in other threads as well). Guess the other question is, do I get red covers for the d5 now, lol


OH, or you could get a white pump, make sure all the blocks are either clear or white, get white fittings, and have the entire liquid cooling loop a monochromatic loop. Then fans with red LEDs or just red fans, and all other parts not associated with the loop red.

Hmmmm, the possibilities.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> OH, or you could get a white pump, make sure all the blocks are either clear or white, get white fittings, and have the entire liquid cooling loop a monochromatic loop. Then fans with red LEDs or just red fans, and all other parts not associated with the loop red.
> 
> Hmmmm, the possibilities.


Haha, I already got the fans and blocks installed tho...would rather not redo all of that work and spend the money


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Guess the other question is, do I get red covers for the d5 now, lol


I would say yes


----------



## cyphon

WOOT! PPCs has Blitz in!

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_1294&products_id=40868


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Part 1 Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning
> 
> DO NOT USE ON ALUMIUM RADATORS
> 
> For internal use on Capper / Brass radators only.
> 
> Do not use on plated products.
> 
> Do not spill on paint work and if you do so, rinse off immediately.
> 
> Maximum effectiveness
> Rapid neutralization of surface rust, contamination and oxidation
> Rigorous removal of mineral scale deposits
> Excellent suspension of particulates
> *Low foaming*
> Hard water tolerant
> Can be disposed of down grey-water (waste / outside) drain
> With "Care" this is easy to handle and straight forward to use
> May Improve heat transfer rate




I'm sorry, it had to be done.


----------



## Mayhem

hahahahahahaha

Ill contact PPC they have there info wrong on Part one.
Quote:


> Mayhems "BLITZ" cleaning system
> Even though this is a cleaning solution it is not a long term effective inhibitor. Never leave it in your system longer than 24 hours.
> 
> This cleaning system is not safe to use around children and animals. You can dispose of the fluids down the drain once they have been diluted.
> 
> Contents
> 
> • 250ml Mayhems Blitz Part 1 250ml (will dilute to 1 Ltr of fluid)
> • 100ml Mayhems Blitz Part 2 100ml (will dilute to 4 Ltrs of fluid)
> • Rubber gloves x 4
> • Measuring Cup
> • Safety Goggles
> • PH test Meter
> • PH Buffer solution
> • Instructions and Warnings (your reading them)
> 
> Part 1 Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning
> 
> DO NOT USE ON ALUMINIUM TUBE RADATORS
> For internal use on Copper / Brass tubed radiators only. Do not use on plated products.
> Do not spill on paint work and if you do, rinse off immediately.
> 
> • Maximum effectiveness
> • Rapid neutralisation of surface rust, contamination and oxidation
> • Rigorous removal of mineral scale deposits
> • Excellent suspension of particulates
> • Low foaming
> • Hard water tolerant
> • Can be disposed of down grey-water (waste / outside) drain
> • With "Care" this is easy to handle and straight forward to use
> • May Improve heat transfer rate
> 
> Usage of Part 1 of the Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning System
> 
> 1. Put on the Gloves provided in the kit.
> 2. Mix Part one with deionised water / distilled water (either will do) to a ratio of 250ml of part 1 to 750ml of water.
> 3. Add to the radiator and clean up any spills immediately.
> 4. Vent the system of any trapped air and cap the radiator.
> 5. Leave in Radiator between 6 to 12 hours.
> 6. After empty down the waste drain. Refill with deionised water / distilled water (either will do) and rise out.
> 7. Repeat step 6 two times.
> 8. Refit to loop and move to Part 2 of the cleaning system.


----------



## VSG

Mick, any idea if PPC is getting the regular Blitz kit too? All I need are the two parts.


----------



## Jimhans1

Is there a kit that has more of part 1, my rig has 5-480mm rads in it..........


----------



## VSG

Ya, I would likely have to get more of Part 1 too. It would be great to get the two parts individually but I can understand the logistics nightmare and complaints from people who end up only getting one part and then saying it didn't work.


----------



## Mayhem

The problem with selling part one on its own is it is an acid and we have to be wary of some people and what they do with it. You can wash 2 to 3 rads with 1ltr ....

Dont forget we've had to also change the formula so that we could get it through customs as before it got refused 2x which was a nightmare.

What ill do though is speak to steve and see what we can come up with.

Mick


----------



## VSG

What about at least having the non-pro Part 1 + 2 kit only?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What about at least having the non-pro Part 1 + 2 kit only?


Just the fluids you mean? I think it'd be a good idea but you get into what mayhem was saying about it being an acid and not knowing what people will do with it


----------



## Jeronbernal

the kit says to not use on plated equipment. wouldn't that pretty much be almost 90% of EK's stuff?


----------



## gdubc

Or anything nickel/gold plated.


----------



## Jimhans1

The part 1 of the kit is supposed to be used for RADIATORS only, part two is safe for your whole loop, including plated blocks!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> the kit says to not use on plated equipment. wouldn't that pretty much be almost 90% of EK's stuff?


that is just part 1 that is not to be used on plated stuff. part 2 is fine.

Basically, part 1 goes thru the rads only, and part 2 thru it all

EDIT:
@Jimhans1, looks like ya ninja'd me


----------



## midnightgypsy

Well crappy cell phone pic in all... I'm part of the of theMayhem Club.....


----------



## Jimhans1

Did you take a permanent marker to the heatsinks and the ROG logo, that's what it looks like from the photo, or are they painted?
Pretty clean looking, need better pics


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Did you take a permanent marker to the heatsinks and the ROG logo, that's what it looks like from the photo, or are they painted?
> Pretty clean looking, need better pics


LOl... I just mnoved to a town not knowing a soul... Broke and wanting a good camera... I do need better pics..I agree... Yes I painted the mobo after two+ hours of masking to lay the satin black paint.. The build is 100% scracth built... most without a tape measure.... I got lucky...lol.. Russ


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnightgypsy*
> 
> Well crappy cell phone pic in all... I'm part of the of theMayhem Club.....


Is that mayhem red? How much did you use to fill ure loop and did you add any dye to it to make it that nice red colour?


----------



## Noviets

Also a member of the Mayhems Club!

With the X1 Coolant, what would using a higher concentration do?

I need approx 1.4L of coolant in my system, so wondering what would happen if I used an entire X1 250ml bottle. Would it make it more UV Reactive?


----------



## Mayhem

We won't release "Blitz Part 1" on its own without gloves and glasses due to some stupid comments we have read on some forums wondering what it will do to other things.. Also due to it needing Part 2 to finish off the cleaning process it would be pointless us releasing it without part 2..

We did make it more powerful originally and it was able to make 2 Ltrs of part 1 fluid how ever it was refused by customs and made us rethink and re-do the kit so that now you can only make 1 ltr. If we add another 1/4 kilo of weight onto the box so that that it does make 2 ltrs again the shipping costs will be exorbitant and the overall cost of the product will sky rocket.

I think personally we have made the right decisions and are still bringing to you a top quality product and the right price point.


----------



## VSG

So if we need just more of Part One, we have to buy the entire Pro kit again?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noviets*
> 
> 
> 
> Also a member of the Mayhems Club!
> 
> With the X1 Coolant, what would using a higher concentration do?
> 
> I need approx 1.4L of coolant in my system, so wondering what would happen if I used an entire X1 250ml bottle. Would it make it more UV Reactive?


X1 (insert colour here) is just X1 with (insert mayhems dye here). Using a higher concentration will probably have slightly worse coolant temps. If you want stronger UV color I would just grab a bottle of the UV colour and add some more. I wouldn't over saturate the coolant just to get a stronger colour.


----------



## midnightgypsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> Is that mayhem red? How much did you use to fill ure loop and did you add any dye to it to make it that nice red colour?


Yes it's Mayhem Pastel Red. I use 3/4 of liter to fill my loop. And no extra dye...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We won't release "Blitz Part 1" on its own without gloves and glasses due to some stupid comments we have read on some forums wondering what it will do to other things.. Also due to it needing Part 2 to finish off the cleaning process it would be pointless us releasing it without part 2..
> 
> We did make it more powerful originally and it was able to make 2 Ltrs of part 1 fluid how ever it was refused by customs and made us rethink and re-do the kit so that now you can only make 1 ltr. If we add another 1/4 kilo of weight onto the box so that that it does make 2 ltrs again the shipping costs will be exorbitant and the overall cost of the product will sky rocket.
> 
> I think personally we have made the right decisions and are still bringing to you a top quality product and the right price point.


Yeah, I think you guys made a good decision. There would be no way to enforce people buy the safety equipment without selling it with the fluid and someone would undoubtedly do something dumb. Would be hard for anyone to come after you guys when the product provides all safety equipment, instructions, and warnings all over the place. So yeah, I think that is the right call.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So if we need just more of Part One, we have to buy the entire Pro kit again?


Yeah. However, remember that the pt1 is just for rads, so 1ltr will stretch slightly further than it would for your whole loop. Could always setup on a bench as well and limit the tubing you need to run too, which would help ever so slightly more in stretching the 1 ltr.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah, I think you guys made a good decision. There would be no way to enforce people buy the safety equipment without selling it with the fluid and someone would undoubtedly do something dumb. Would be hard for anyone to come after you guys when the product provides all safety equipment, instructions, and warnings all over the place. So yeah, I think that is the right call.
> Yeah. However, remember that the pt1 is just for rads, so 1ltr will stretch slightly further than it would for your whole loop. Could always setup on a bench as well and limit the tubing you need to run too, which would help ever so slightly more in stretching the 1 ltr.


But what about my TFC Monsta rad? It takes 1.2liters of coolant (part 1) just for that rad!

*sigh* first world problems.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> But what about my TFC Monsta rad? It takes 1.2liters of coolant (part 1) just for that rad!
> 
> *sigh* first world problems.


In that case you are just SOL and gotta buy a couple packs


----------



## Mayhem

If your monster takes 1.2 Ltrs then fill it all the way up with part one and leave for a longer period of time. job done.

The longer you leave it the more effective it will become how ever once part 1 acid has been spent it will no be as effective. If your rads are slim line chances are you can reuse it again on a second rad how ever again the effect will diminish the more its is used.

We can only recommend what we've tested and people will have to use there common sense.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> In that case you are just SOL and gotta buy a couple packs


Pretty much, XD
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If your monster takes 1.2 Ltrs then fill it all the way up with part one and leave for a longer period of time. job done.
> 
> The longer you leave it the more effective it will become how ever once part 1 acid has been spent it will no be as effective. If your rads are slim line chances are you can reuse it again on a second rad how ever again the effect will diminish the more its is used.
> 
> We can only recommend what we've tested and people will have to use there common sense.


The problem is the monsta isn't my only rad. XD

I have a TFC Monsta, a Phobya 480 Xtreme Nova, and looking to get 2 Koolance 30FPI once I finish my fan controller.

I'll just have to settle for my good ol jemon juice in place of part 1.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Pretty much, XD
> The problem is the monsta isn't my only rad. XD
> 
> I have a TFC Monsta, a Phobya 480 Xtreme Nova, and looking to get 2 Koolance 30FPI once I finish my fan controller.
> 
> I'll just have to settle for my good ol jemon juice in place of part 1.


I don't think you have enough rad space...

Seriously, what are you cooling? An entire data center?

Also, are you custom biulding a fan controller? That is one of the things on my to-do list of projects. Perhaps s after this pc build I'll do that


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I don't think you have enough rad space...
> 
> Seriously, what are you cooling? An entire data center?
> 
> Also, are you custom biulding a fan controller? That is one of the things on my to-do list of projects. Perhaps s after this pc build I'll do that


I'll be dropping in a TEC @ 24volts, so 1000watt nominal heat load, I want to separate that in a dual loop which is why I need the other 2 rads. XD Hopefully can get that done by years end, but projects have a way of delaying themselves.

Check out my build log, it's in my siggy, project Wyvern









Just gotta order some crap to etch the PCB, and I can mount it all together and test it, everything else has already been tested.


----------



## Mayhem

Realy could do with a good FC all the buy as you go ones on the market are absolute rubbish.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'll be dropping in a TEC @ 24volts, so 1000watt nominal heat load, I want to separate that in a dual loop which is why I need the other 2 rads. XD Hopefully can get that done by years end, but projects have a way of delaying themselves.
> 
> Check out my build log, it's in my siggy, project Wyvern
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just gotta order some crap to etch the PCB, and I can mount it all together and test it, everything else has already been tested.


Why not just get a PCB printed? Then you can get a mask and do 2-layer much easier. OSH Park (they took on BatchPCB) is pretty cheap (probably will cost you <$20 to print, and I think that is 3 copies you get). I have also had good results with Advanced Circuits...a bit more expensive, but much faster.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Realy could do with a good FC all the buy as you go ones on the market are absolute rubbish.


Pretty much. I feel like the UI on pretty much all of them could be much better too.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Why not just get a PCB printed? Then you can get a mask and do 2-layer much easier. OSH Park (they took on BatchPCB) is pretty cheap (probably will cost you <$20 to print, and I think that is 3 copies you get). I have also had good results with Advanced Circuits...a bit more expensive, but much faster.


Well I need really thick boards, not sure if they do any 7oz/ft^2 or higher thickness boards but it's easier for me to just hand do the prototype myself. Plus, hand drawn PCB etchings look amazing.


Anyways, if you have any other questions take em to the controller thread, I don't want to hijack this one.


----------



## Blackops_2

On the Blitz Pro, the first part is rads only, but the second part is meant to be ran through the entire loop? But if you have plated blocks the second is a no no correct?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> On the Blitz Pro, the first part is rads only, but the second part is meant to be ran through the entire loop? But if you have plated blocks the second is a no no correct?


Incorrect, the second is ok for plated blocks, just like a bicarbonate solution would be.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Incorrect, the second is ok for plated blocks, just like a bicarbonate solution would be.


Oh okay great, i was reading the PPC description and the bolded red lettering states don't use for plated products. Though i guess that's under part 1









Ty Jim.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Oh okay great, i was reading the PPC description and the bolded red lettering states don't use for plated products. Though i guess that's under part 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ty Jim.


Was a couple posts back, but Mayhem said PPC had their description wrong and posted what it should be


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Was a couple posts back, but Mayhem said PPC had their description wrong and posted what it should be


Remembered seeing that as well right after i replied to Tim ha, guess i was too lazy to flip through pages


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> On the Blitz Pro, the first part is rads only, but the second part is meant to be ran through the entire loop? But if you have plated blocks the second is a no no correct?


Part one is an acid and will likely obliterate plated products. Part two is an alkaline and a surfactant, suspends any crap that's left over and neutralizes everything else.


----------



## Blackops_2

I knew part 1 was an acid i'm assuming pretty strong if it lowers the pH to 2ish. Didn't really know what part 2 was. Makes sense though.


----------



## Nornam

I'm just about to use this myself for a quick review thingy sort of thing.. But yeh, As I understood it, the part 1 is for Rads only really & NOT FOR FLUSHING A WHOLE SYSTEM!!.... (Just thought I'd shout out that part hehe), Then use the part 2 to flush the whole system , just how I read it anyway







....

If just changing fluids in a system, just use part 2 & flush away (no need for the use of the part 1 if just changing fluids) that's how I saw it & how I'll be doing my test runs anyway







...

N.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> Thanks Zy and Jack
> I will be using the solutions you recommended to clean the loop up.
> First the lemon water then the vinegar water and final bicarb rinse.


Been away a while so sorry for late reply..... but Id use the new cleaning solution that mayhems has available as these technique served well for like 5 months and then lost color (went dark) in pastel over the next week.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liberato87*
> 
> @ Mayhem
> 
> I have a little problem.
> I stored my pastel red (in their bottles) because I decide to use distilled water in my loop for a period.
> Yesterday I filled the loop with the pastel red
> 
> and the flow collapsed!
> With distilled water I had 210 L/h now It starts at 110 L/h and after some minutes it stays on the 80 L/h!
> how is this possible?? could you help me?


Are you sure its not your flow measurement device ?.... I remember Darlene posting about particles clogging her flow meters (See Stretch Buoild Thread IIRC) but pretty sure she was using Aurora.

Another thing that coulda happened is if you have an air bubble somewhere that would reduce the flow area cross section and reduce flow.

EDIT: Ahhh...I see later on Darlene chimed in.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Been away a while so sorry for late reply..... but Id use the new cleaning solution that mayhems has available as these technique served well for like 5 months and then lost color (went dark) in pastel over the next week.
> Are you sure its not your flow measurement device ?.... I remember Darlene posting about particles clogging her flow meters (See Stretch Buoild Thread IIRC) but pretty sure she was using Aurora.
> 
> Another thing that coulda happened is if you have an air bubble somewhere that would reduce the flow area cross section and reduce flow.
> 
> EDIT: Ahhh...I see later on Darlene chimed in.


I actually just noticed my flow meter (koolance inline) stopped in one of my builds using pastel. Still am getting plenty of flow (temps are the same as before), just no more spinning


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> I know it's been answered many times, UV red coolant/dye will have staining, regular red coolant/dye will not have staining correct?
> 
> Just filled my loop with Mayhems Pastel Red and looking forward to using UV White/blue dye in it, want to make sure I am not re-filling my loop next week, this stuff isn't cheap!


The best ya can do here is look for a tubing with lower water absorption.....Tygon 2475 has the lowest I have seen so far ..... when manufacturers say "plasticizer free" they usually mean it doesn't have DEHP [Bis (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate] plasticizers ..... but it's plasticizers that make tubing flexible. The 2475 has no plasticzers at all so it has the downside of being less flexible.... I wouldn't wanna do a 180 bend at less than 1.5" radius. But one of its other advantages is it has a water absorption rate down at the detection limit > 0.01%

Unfortunately most manufacturers don't publish this data

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> My loop is asymbled on the counter with a lemon juice mix flowing though and will remain running for 3-4 hours to be followed by a bicarbonate rinse until morning.
> This is on top of the lemon water shake and bicarbonate rinse I did last weekend and then let it run with straight water for 3 days.
> I am not taking any chances with this Alphacool radiator or my phobya radiator that still had slight remains from EK blue coolant.
> The new Ice White Mayhems goes in tomorow


Been there, done that w/ NeXXos Rads = FAIL.

1. Hot water ..... let sit 30 minutes .... do the "shakie shakie" thing ..... rinse and repeat 3 times.
2. Connected tube to faucet, alternated hot and cold water and pulsed it to shake things loose for 30 minutes.
3. Let soak for cupla hours in baking soda solution
4. Two DW rinses
5. Let soak for cupla hours in vinegar . water solution
6. Two DW rinses
7. Assembled loop, filled with DW and ran for 30 minutes (pump only, puter not on)
8. Drained and refilled with DW, ran for a week.
9. Rinsed with DW.
10. Mixed 2 bottles of Red Pastel w/ 1.4 L DW and filled loop

Ran from about December 1st to January when i added 2 bottles of red dye. Color stayed constant and in March. A few days after some strenuous thermal testing I noticed a distinct difference in color but wasn't sure..... my son came home a week later and was like "wow, did you change the color again ?

I would use the blitz kit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Belial
> 
> Oky sound like you spent loads and all hell has broken lose. Sounds like the nano fluids have stuck to the tubing .. This is the first time ever we have heard or seen this with "Mayhems Pastel". So what has caused it? ... Well i haven't got a clue or a answer and without a sample of said tubing and some of the fluid i cannot answer your question.
> 
> How ever !!!!!! put this all together in a email with pics, Show me receipts of you purchases of Mayhems products and i will replace it all (my email is well documented in these forums but here it is again [email protected]).


I have found this tubing to be very stain resistant (see above) .... was using for long time in laboratory setting before using it in A WC build.... my loop is acrylic buy I use short sections of 2475 at pumps for vibration isolation.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Somewhere I think on YouTube or something I saw Linus from ltt, say that push vs pull there isn't much of a difference, and that cleaning is a lot easier with pull.
> 
> Saying that, to be honest I still have mine in push just because the build looks better, but if that doesn't matter so much, try flipping them to pull, hopefully Linus was right, and you won't notice a difference and have less to clean up


From a dust standpoint push / pull is really immaterial ..... Pulling air outta the case (fan on top in top rad)or pushing it outta the case (fan on bottom of top rad) is the same thing. What matters is is the air going into the case or is air going out ?

Air going into the case is the most efficient. If you are exhausting air outta the case thru a rad, you are significantly reducing cooling efficiency. Let's go to the numbers.....Say your ambient air is 22C ..... your coolant is 32C and your interior case air is 27C. What will cool the coolant more, the 22C air or the 27C air ? Your coolant will typically handle about 60% of the heat generated by your system.... the rest of radiation and air cooling.

With regard to dust, what really matters most in both cases is "are the inlets filtered ?". Like positive / negative case pressure, the only reason that positive is generally considered "better" is cause fan inlets are typically filtered. But it also has to be recognized that filters reduce air flow.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnightgypsy*
> 
> Yes it's Mayhem Pastel Red. I use 3/4 of liter to fill my loop. And no extra dye...


Wow that's darker / nicer than mine was even after adding two bottles of red dye. (see pic in siggie).....mine was more like strawberry slushie


----------



## pathfindercod

Would it be recommended to use blitz on a new build for initial cleaning?


----------



## Nightingale

I will be building a new loop from scratch with all new parts here in a few weeks and intend to use Mayhem Pastel. Tubing with be Promochill Advanced LRT clear. Is there any pre cautionary measures that I need to take into account before I plan to add the pastel. All my blocks will be Nickel(EK) for the record. Also could a brand new XSPC RX rad not flushed correctly cause a bad reaction with the pastel?


----------



## Jimhans1

ANY rad new or not can cause an issue if not flushed properly, some are more likely than others. Always flush and clean a rad before putting into service IMO.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> ANY rad new or not can cause an issue if not flushed properly, some are more likely than others. Always flush and clean a rad before putting into service IMO.


Agreed.


----------



## VSG

Looks like all my rads together will consume close to a gallon just amongst themselves making it very impractical to get 4 units of the Blitz Pro just for Part 1. I may just get one set and use Part 1 on the Alphacool and Mo.Ra rads while flushing the rest of the rads with hot water followed by distilled. Anyone have other suggestions?


----------



## Nightingale

How long before the pastel degrades and needs to be replaced? Every year? Reason I ask is cause on some other forums some people said mayhem himself recommended every 6 months, is this true?


----------



## Jimhans1

I have one of my systems that's going on 2 years next month and the pastel red is still going strong....... I've not seen @Mayhem recommend changing out any fluid at less than a year though, and that is X1.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> How long before the pastel degrades and needs to be replaced? Every year? Reason I ask is cause on some other forums some people said mayhem himself recommended every 6 months, is this true?


Pastel is good for one to two years, I'd not push it closer to two years though. I also tend to be on the more paranoid side of loop maintenance so there's also that.


----------



## Jimhans1

Oh, I do loop maintenance, but I reuse the coolant, thankfully, the maintenance I end up doing is just draining the loop and inspecting stuff, have had no problems yet (Knock on wood) and the bottle of Pastel says 2-3 years.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Oh, I do loop maintenance, but I reuse the coolant, thankfully, the maintenance I end up doing is just draining the loop and inspecting stuff, have had no problems yet (Knock on wood) and the bottle of Pastel says 2-3 years.


Does it? Huh, could of sworn it was 1-2 year. My bad. XD


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Speaking of pastel, I had a major leak happen on one of my Bitspower compressions. I had stressed the tubing within the compression at a bad enough tension that the tubing was pulling off the barb.

And the thing is that I have light beige carpet in my working area. And I got some pastel all over the carpet while draining .

But holy cow does that stuff come out easily from carpet. Really surprised.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Pastel ice white with a smudge of blood red dye
Waiting for a rma from Newegg for my Asus impact for the 250d -_-


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Would it be recommended to use blitz on a new build for initial cleaning?


Use the new Blitz product, it is made to clean everything up








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> I will be building a new loop from scratch with all new parts here in a few weeks and intend to use Mayhem Pastel. Tubing with be Promochill Advanced LRT clear. Is there any pre cautionary measures that I need to take into account before I plan to add the pastel. All my blocks will be Nickel(EK) for the record. Also could a brand new XSPC RX rad not flushed correctly cause a bad reaction with the pastel?


I'd run the new Blitz product on rads as sys prep. Alternatively, a lemon juice solution followed by a bicarb solution followed by some distilled flushes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> ANY rad new or not can cause an issue if not flushed properly, some are more likely than others. Always flush and clean a rad before putting into service IMO.


pretty much this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like all my rads together will consume close to a gallon just amongst themselves making it very impractical to get 4 units of the Blitz Pro just for Part 1. I may just get one set and use Part 1 on the Alphacool and Mo.Ra rads while flushing the rest of the rads with hot water followed by distilled. Anyone have other suggestions?


I'd do the lemon juice solution then bicarb solution versus just hot water
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> How long before the pastel degrades and needs to be replaced? Every year? Reason I ask is cause on some other forums some people said mayhem himself recommended every 6 months, is this true?


No, System maintenance schedule I follow.:

Plain DI water -> 6mo
Mayhems X1 -> 1yr
Pastel -> 2yr

System I am using to type this message (Ice Pick in sig) has had pastel running for almost 1yr straight (usually stays on 24/7). Same system performance, no buildups, same color as day 1. Should also mention, I am using XSPC tube in it and it has no plasticizer, clouding, or yellowing. I am actually pleasently surprised with that tube.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I have gone the acidic (vinegar) / basic (bicarb) flushes , followed by a much more extensive flushing routine ending with a week on DW .... at end of week PH was 7.03. Perhaps this is rad specific as Mayhems specifically points out NeXXos rads

Everything was great for about 4 months .... then after some bench testing (no fans) where CPU got up to 84C (Delta T at 6), it rapidly deteriorated.


----------



## minicooper1

Silver aurora is good for a white loop?

Inviato dal mio SM-N9005 con Tapatalk 2


----------



## Nightingale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'd run the new Blitz product on rads as sys prep. Alternatively, a lemon juice solution followed by a bicarb solution followed by some distilled flushes


I was told that for brand new XSPC RX V3 rad's that using blitz is overkill. Just use hot distilled water with maybe a 10:1 ratio of water to vinegar. People here say blitz is good for Alphacool rads(notoriously dirty new) or systems that have had previous dyes or solutions run in them.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> I was told that for brand new XSPC RX V3 rad's that using blitz is overkill. Just use hot distilled water with maybe a 10:1 ratio of water to vinegar. People here say blitz is good for Alphacool rads(notoriously dirty new) or systems that have had previous dyes or solutions run in them.


I would personally want to run a known product like blitz rather than guessing with something else, and as I said in previous post, ANY rad can give your system coolant issues if it was a "Monday" production


----------



## Nightingale

I hear ya, and I appreciate the advice. However Blitz is nowhere to be found here in canada(Dazmode does not stock it). Not even Aquatuning.us carries it.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> I was told that for brand new XSPC RX V3 rad's that using blitz is overkill. Just use hot distilled water with maybe a 10:1 ratio of water to vinegar. People here say blitz is good for Alphacool rads(notoriously dirty new) or systems that have had previous dyes or solutions run in them.
> 
> 
> 
> I would personally want to run a known product like blitz rather than guessing with something else, and as I said in previous post, ANY rad can give your system coolant issues if it was a "Monday" production
Click to expand...

In deferent part of the world...if it was a "Friday" production.


----------



## Jimhans1

Lol, I usually say a "Monday or Friday" item, but shortened it for space. We aren't exempt from Friday production flaws here either


----------



## Mayhem

Blitz is only sold in a couple of places atm (UK / USA) as its not a well known product. Give it time and it will roll out to more places. We've only just cracked USA customs with it and each part of the world will be slightly different.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Blitz is only sold in a couple of places atm (UK / USA) as its not a well known product. Give it time and it will roll out to more places. We've only just cracked USA customs with it and each part of the world will be slightly different.


Oh bummer, it looks like the PPC Blitz kit can only effectively clean 1 liter worth of radiators.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_1294&products_id=40868

The Part 1 can only dilute down to 1 liter of liquid. A 480 has a liquid volume of almost half a liter. If we need to clean 4 of these radiators, it's not nearly enough.


----------



## Blackops_2

Yeah i have 120x9 rad space


----------



## VSG

Hey stop whining, I got 140x13 and 120x9 of rad space here









I would suggest just using this on known culprits- Alphacool and Phobya. The rest are not bad at all but again I have not used Mayhems coolants yet so I can't promise how they would behave without the Blitz cleaning.


----------



## ZytheEKS

To all the "not enough part 1" use lemon juice + water 1:4 ratio, then part two. That should take care of any crap in the radiator, and neutralize and what not.


----------



## pennover

Hey! So I'm contemplating over using PrimoChill's Blue Advanced LRT with Mayhems UV clear blue dye vs PrimoChill Red Advanced LRT with Mayhems UV red dye. Red would certainly go better with my build, but hearing all the negativities about red UV dye staining, I'm not quite sure what the consequences will be? My res is an EK X3 clear. Should I expect it to stain red over time if I use the red UV dye? All the other components are non see-through. I guess I just don't exactly understand what the "staining" part actually entailw. Since this will be my first wc build, I want to make sure I won't ruin it? Would appreciate if anyone could clear this up for me. Kudos!


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hey stop whining, I got 140x13 and 120x9 of rad space here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would suggest just using this on known culprits- Alphacool and Phobya. The rest are not bad at all but again I have not used Mayhems coolants yet so I can't promise how they would behave without the Blitz cleaning.


You throwing your car in the loop...or what?









I have EK XT rads and one swiftech MCR 320, just want to take the proper precautions as to not have to worry about my pastel changing on me.


----------



## VSG

Nah, those would be cooling two rigs in one case (the CaseLabs TX10-D). More details in my build log linked in my sig.

I definitely understand your concern, especially with Mick having recommended this for his coolants. Maybe we should do a group buy where some people only need the pH meter etc and other only need Part 1


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Hey! So I'm contemplating over using PrimoChill's Blue Advanced LRT with Mayhems UV clear blue dye vs PrimoChill Red Advanced LRT with Mayhems UV red dye. Red would certainly go better with my build, but hearing all the negativities about red UV dye staining, I'm not quite sure what the consequences will be? My res is an EK X3 clear. Should I expect it to stain red over time if I use the red UV dye? All the other components are non see-through. I guess I just don't exactly understand what the "staining" part actually entailw. Since this will be my first wc build, I want to make sure I won't ruin it? Would appreciate if anyone could clear this up for me. Kudos!


UV dyes, especially red/pink, will stain...pretty much no avoiding it. Whether or not the staining is a big deal or not, is totally up to you. How long are you planning on running this same system before upgrade/new build?

I'd go with what will look best with your overall system. If you have red everywhere, don't force blue in there as it will look odd.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Hey! So I'm contemplating over using PrimoChill's Blue Advanced LRT with Mayhems UV clear blue dye vs PrimoChill Red Advanced LRT with Mayhems UV red dye. Red would certainly go better with my build, but hearing all the negativities about red UV dye staining, I'm not quite sure what the consequences will be? My res is an EK X3 clear. Should I expect it to stain red over time if I use the red UV dye? All the other components are non see-through. I guess I just don't exactly understand what the "staining" part actually entailw. Since this will be my first wc build, I want to make sure I won't ruin it? Would appreciate if anyone could clear this up for me. Kudos!


Staining won't be an issue for the res, it's acrylic, and not probe to staining, and ANY color dye will stain over time, that's its job, to color things







it just that the red and the pink UV dyes tend to do it faster and more of it. Since the rest of you components are opaque, I would say to use whatever will look best in your system color wise.

Edit: Sniped by @cyphon


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Staining won't be an issue for the res, it's acrylic, and not probe to staining, and ANY color dye will stain over time, that's its job, to color things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it just that the red and the pink UV dyes tend to do it faster and more of it. Since the rest of you components are opaque, I would say to use whatever will look best in your system color wise.
> 
> Edit: Sniped by @cyphon


Had to get ya back for the other day


----------



## pennover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> UV dyes, especially red/pink, will stain...pretty much no avoiding it. Whether or not the staining is a big deal or not, is totally up to you. How long are you planning on running this same system before upgrade/new build?
> 
> I'd go with what will look best with your overall system. If you have red everywhere, don't force blue in there as it will look odd.


Well, I'm using opaque GPU & CPU blocks from EK and a clear EK X3 res. Planning to use these for a few years though (2 min on the gpu/cpu blocks and 3 on the res). I guess I'm just not clear on the subject: does the staining only affect clear blocks & tubing, or will the opaque blocks "give off" the red color for a prolonged period of time after changing to another color?


----------



## pennover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Staining won't be an issue for the res, it's acrylic, and not probe to staining, and ANY color dye will stain over time, that's its job, to color things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it just that the red and the pink UV dyes tend to do it faster and more of it. Since the rest of you components are opaque, I would say to use whatever will look best in your system color wise.[/@]


Ok thanks, I guess that answers it then, gonna go with red


----------



## pennover

One more question: what's the difference between the red dye and the deep red dye? Can I achive the same deep red by just adding more drops of red dye? I plan to use it with the X1 uv red 1ltr premix.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> To all the "not enough part 1" use lemon juice + water 1:4 ratio, then part two. That should take care of any crap in the radiator, and neutralize and what not.


After my experience doing that the 1st time around doing what was on the bottle and then some.... I'd be hesitant to invest $40 for the system, and another $60 for pastel / dyes again.

Since my temps are low for the OCs I wanna run at (4.6 max), I was thinking of switching to Aurora which IIRC doesn't suffer from the coolant "rusting" issue. I know about the issues with other types of flow meters and I'm sure its somewhere in this monster thread but any issues with the paddle wheel type (Bitspower) flow indicators ?

1 x EX Supremacy CPU Block
2 x EK Clean 780 DCII Blocks
(6) Bitspower Temp Sensors
(2) Bitspower Flow Indicators
(2) Nexxos Rads (420 + 280)
Swiftech 35x2
EK Res-3-250

I figure cycling the 35x2 up to full speed every now and then should flush out anythig that settles while system is off. And yes, I'd still Blitz the system first.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Is there such thing as a shot of Mayhems Aurora 2 nanoparticles?

As Aurora 2 gets old in your system, particles fall out and collect in deadzones. The simplest way would be to replenish them with a small dissolvable tablet that can replenish the particles.









Eventually you'll reach an equilibrium where you can't lose any more particles


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> I don't think it is an exact science where people are measuring the amount of vinegar down to the PPM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's about 5:1 water to vinegar, run it for a bit. Then it's like two tablespoons of sodium bicarbonate to 1 liter of water.


How long would you fill your radiator with vinigar and water?

How long should you run sodium bicarbonate through the radiators?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

In hydraulics we use terms like:

Settlement Velocity = the velocity in which particles will not settle out of suspension. ....typically about 2.2 fps

Pick Up Velocity = the velocit5y at which settled out particles will be "picked up" and resuspended.....typically about 3.3 fps

At full speed, the 35x2 can just about double the minimum pickup velocity so should be good for scouring for all but a few isolated nooks and crannies.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> How long would you fill your radiator with vinigar and water?
> 
> How long should you run sodium bicarbonate through the radiators?


I did between 3 and 4 hours each solution with tap water flush in between.....gonna try again with Blitz.


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Is there such thing as a shot of Mayhems Aurora 2 nanoparticles?
> 
> As Aurora 2 gets old in your system, particles fall out and collect in deadzones. The simplest way would be to replenish them with a small dissolvable tablet that can replenish the particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eventually you'll reach an equilibrium where you can't lose any more particles


Aurora 2 is a new coolant so there is nobody that would have had it get OLD as you call it. There are most likely people with loops that are still too complicated for the coolant who are having the particles catch in places.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

I asked this before, but didn't get a proper answer. Now I'm going to order some parts and need to know: Primochill Advanced LRT + Acrylic Tube Reservoir + XT-1 = Ok? Or should I buy the X1?


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> I asked this before, but didn't get a proper answer. Now I'm going to order some parts and need to know: Primochill Advanced LRT + Acrylic Tube Reservoir + XT-1 = Ok? Or should I buy the X1?


Get X1 unless you are doing sub zero cooling from what I remember. XT1 is a glycol based coolant I'm pretty sure. Yes your tubing will be fun but there still are chances plasticizers can become a problem. If you don't have fittings yet go with acrylic tubing and eliminate that possible issue.


----------



## cyphon

Blitz Kitz, I have them!


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> Get X1 unless you are doing sub zero cooling from what I remember. XT1 is a glycol based coolant I'm pretty sure. Yes your tubing will be fun but there still are chances plasticizers can become a problem. If you don't have fittings yet go with acrylic tubing and eliminate that possible issue.


Thanks, I just asked because the XT-1 is way cheaper for me because I would be able to use it for more fillings and, as my country does not have Mayhem's products to sell, shipping would matter too. I'm going with the X1. Oh, about the acrylic, I can't use it for my build, it has a external radiator, so I would need flexible tubing anyway.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> Thanks, I just asked because the XT-1 is way cheaper for me because I would be able to use it for more fillings and, as my country does not have Mayhem's products to sell, shipping would matter too. I'm going with the X1. Oh, about the acrylic, I can't use it for my build, it has a external radiator, so I would need flexible tubing anyway.


I'm running on 7 hours of sleep since monday so maybe my memory is off but if I recall correctly X1 makes two liters. XT-1 has 125ml of concentrate, and it requires a 5% minimum concentration which would equate to about 2 liters, maybe a few dozen extra ml.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'm running on 7 hours of sleep since monday so maybe my memory is off but if I recall correctly X1 makes two liters. XT-1 has 125ml of concentrate, and it requires a 5% minimum concentration which would equate to about 2 liters, maybe a few dozen extra ml.


seems right to me









get some sleep still tho


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> Thanks, I just asked because the XT-1 is way cheaper for me because I would be able to use it for more fillings and, as my country does not have Mayhem's products to sell, shipping would matter too. I'm going with the X1. Oh, about the acrylic, I can't use it for my build, it has a external radiator, so I would need flexible tubing anyway.


You could use passthroughs if you really wanted to to work with acrylic. It would be difficult but totally do-able.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'm running on 7 hours of sleep since monday so maybe my memory is off but if I recall correctly X1 makes two liters. XT-1 has 125ml of concentrate, and it requires a 5% minimum concentration which would equate to about 2 liters, maybe a few dozen extra ml.


2,5L to be more exact







. I'll go with the X1, it seems that the XT-1 doesn't worth for me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> You could use passthroughs if you really wanted to to work with acrylic. It would be difficult but totally do-able.


Yeah, but I would still need some flexible tubing to conect the case to the radiator as it must be movable... Unless I get some norprene tubing to that. But I think the Primochill ADV LRT (already have it) will do the work as it is not prone to have plasticizers problems with Mayhems products. Right?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> 2,5L to be more exact
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'll go with the X1, it seems that the XT-1 doesn't worth for me.
> Yeah, but I would still need some flexible tubing to conect the case to the radiator as it must be movable... Unless I get some norprene tubing to that. But I think the Primochill ADV LRT (already have it) will do the work as it is not prone to have plasticizers problems with Mayhems products. Right?


Haven't really seen anything with plasticizer with them yet, however, I have seen that they start to yellow over time... been several complaints about this lately


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Any of you here use or have used mayhem pastel uv white in the past?

Would like to ask you some questions if you have!

I'm aware of what the effect is supposed to be, I did use some UV white dye in my mayhems pastel red to test the effect, I am really curious if it is going to be the same on white. Let's just say I was not too happy with the UV results on red


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Any of you here use or have used mayhem pastel uv white in the past?
> 
> Would like to ask you some questions if you have!
> 
> I'm aware of what the effect is supposed to be, I did use some UV white dye in my mayhems pastel red to test the effect, I am really curious if it is going to be the same on white. Let's just say I was not too happy with the UV results on red


I think jimhans1 has.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I think jimhans1 has.


thanks Jack, going to send him a message


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Any of you here use or have used mayhem pastel uv white in the past?
> 
> Would like to ask you some questions if you have!
> 
> I'm aware of what the effect is supposed to be, I did use some UV white dye in my mayhems pastel red to test the effect, I am really curious if it is going to be the same on white. Let's just say I was not too happy with the UV results on red


It pretty much looks like 1930s SIS invisible ink.







Google Mansfield Smith-Cumming's wikipedia page

The invisible blue UV doesn't mix well with any other UV colors. You can mix it with any color and you'll still get a bright blue UV color. I mean, if that's what you're going for then good enough but I've said it once and I'll say it again, invisible blue will be bright blue in UV light, doesn't matter what you mix it with.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It pretty much looks like 1930s SIS invisible ink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Google Mansfield Smith-Cumming's wikipedia page
> 
> The invisible blue UV doesn't mix well with any other UV colors. You can mix it with any color and you'll still get a bright blue UV color. I mean, if that's what you're going for then good enough but I've said it once and I'll say it again, invisible blue will be bright blue in UV light, doesn't matter what you mix it with.


Yeah, that was my expectation, until about almost half a bottle of DYE and barely a solid glow from it









Put it this way, i have 2 different UV lights, not the _BEST_ uv out there, but enough to make any other UV glow nice and bright. After putting the UV in the red and seeing the effect I don't know if I should even bother with the pastel white. I was assuming with white the glow might be different but if it's the pastel itself that is not allowing me I am thinking of just going clear coolant









i might try to put together some real 365nm uv lights and see if I can get the effect to come out of the red
http://www.overclock.net/t/1453297/uv-lights-for-uv-tubing


----------



## Mayhem

If you trying to add UV Clear Blue to pastel Ice white its not going to be very effective. Our UV White has less pastel, more suspension and more UV Clear blue in it to make it stand out more. Dont forget Pastel Blocks out UV light







.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you trying to add UV Clear Blue to pastel Ice white its not going to be very effective. Our UV White has less pastel, more suspension and more UV Clear blue in it to make it stand out more. Dont forget Pastel Blocks out UV light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thank you Mayhem








I had a feeling regardless how much I put UV Clear blue in my pastel red, that pastel would not allow the effect through.

This is great news. This means I am able to use the uv pastel white and have both nice regular color and nice uv effect!


----------



## cyphon

Question on the Blitz kits:

What is the maximum time to wait between steps?
step 1 -> step 2
step 2 -> filling the loop with the actual fluid

There will definitely be down time between steps 1 and 2 as I will have to get the acrylic runs in after adding the rads back to the case (was going to pull the rads out and put step 1 in on my work bench). I don't see why there would be much time between step 2 and filling the loop, but wanted to be thorough in case the there is a need to wait a bit in between.


----------



## Mayhem

Never run part 2 longer than 24 hours. Then it will take upto 3 flushes to rinse out all the crap part 2 have picked up or loosened off. Dont forget Part 2 will froth like mad so add slowly.


----------



## Newtocooling

I just ordered Blitz through PPC. Is one kit enough for 3 480 and 1 360 rads? Also is it ok to flush both part 1 and 2 down a regular drain as long as I dilute them?


----------



## Mayhem

Once they are diluted they are fine. Once Part 1 is used it literally is like a spent cartridge out of a shot gun, because it has done its job and its pay load of acid is all used up.

I doubt the kit will clean all them rads its a bit more than normal. All i can suggest is you do two rads and then try and see if it will do another two (reuse the fluid). If it works then excellent if not then at least you tried.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Hey guys, has anyone mixed Pastel Blue Berry with a few drops of purple dye? I'm hoping it'll create a deeper blue but I'd like to see if I can find out first


----------



## Doc3379

I used my Blitz kit over the weekend and part one barely made enough for my XT45 360 and UT60 280.


----------



## VSG

I think there will be a LOT of demand for just part 1, Mick. I know I won't be buying the whole kit again and end up with a lot of spare parts never to be used- I got plenty of those lying around already


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Once Part 1 is used it literally is like a spent cartridge out of a shot gun, because it has done its job and its pay load of acid is all used up.
> 
> All i can suggest is you do two rads and then try and see if it will do another two (reuse the fluid). If it works then excellent if not then at least you tried.


Could you elaborate a little ? If the acid payload is all used up, sounds like it could be less than effective on the second set. Also how do we determine "if it works" ? My thought was perhaps if doing a double dose on separate rads, that one might make sure to leave it in long enough to "do what it needs to do" but making sure not to leave in for the max allowed 24 hours as I expect the longer it sits, the more it would reduce its effectiveness.

*On the "How much liquid does your radiator hold ?" question ......*

To help users with the "Do I have enough coolant / prep mix" dilemma, I started "The Radiator Volume Thread " @ http://www.overclock.net/t/1493339/the-radiator-volume-thread

To aid others in the future as you prep your rads for treatment with the Blitz Kit or refill ya loop, please throw the numbers in there so those following can estimate their needs. If ya helo some one with pre-purchase questions on rads or coolants, please ask them to contribute for the benefit of the community.


----------



## McMogg

Hey, Mayhem, I am looking to use your Pastel green in an upcoming build, and I am gently buying parts, do you have any recommended radiators, or in particular brands I should avoid?

I seem to remember the Alphacool ones have a lot of flux left inside them, is that an issue if I use a blitz kit on these rads?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McMogg*
> 
> Hey, Mayhem, I am looking to use your Pastel green in an upcoming build, and I am gently buying parts, do you have any recommended radiators, or in particular brands I should avoid?
> 
> I seem to remember the Alphacool ones have a lot of flux left inside them, is that an issue if I use a blitz kit on these rads?


HW Labs has the best build quality, XSPC and HW labs do excellent jobs cleaning them prior to shipping. No radiators should have compatibility issues with pastel assuming you blitz em. Alphacool doesn't clean their rads prior to shipping em, so they have a bunch of flux on the surface of the solder points, and it isn't uncommon for them to have loose chunks of solder in them.


----------



## McMogg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> HW Labs has the best build quality, XSPC and HW labs do excellent jobs cleaning them prior to shipping. No radiators should have compatibility issues with pastel assuming you blitz em. Alphacool doesn't clean their rads prior to shipping em, so they have a bunch of flux on the surface of the solder points, and it isn't uncommon for them to have loose chunks of solder in them.


Awesome, I was thinking of a HW Labs Black Ice Nemesis, so that's good to hear!
I'll be make sure to blitz them both regardless.


----------



## Mayhem

Let me speak to my partner and see what we can do about part one you lot are not normal and have more rads than GM hahaha.

@McMogg Im realy sorry i cannot go giving advice on Products such as rads as we work with a lot of companies and even though i have my own favs its best for me not to advise others of what to buy and what not to buy. Its very unethical and i make my own rads







... There are lots of users who will advise you .... in mho "buy what you can afford and never skimp on cheap parts.." ....

Mick


----------



## VSG

Good, please let us know if you have a solution. My ~3m of linear rad space isn't going to get prepped by itself.


----------



## Dragoon

Can someone shed some light here?

I'm running two loops, one with Mayhems Pastel White and another Pastel Red... I've been using them since January 2014.

I noticed that recently the red loop has gotten quite darker, in fact (as creepy as it may seem) it REALLY looks like blood now. The white loop is as bright and clean as the first day.

I haven't noticed any performance issues, what do you think it can be? Should I be worried?

I will do a complete flush and replacement of both coolants soon when I replace my PSU.

Thanks


----------



## Mayhem

Oooookkkyyy Spoken to Steve tonight. Were going to create a Part 1 only kit. It will contain Gloves, Goggles and 1 x 250ml of Part 1 cleaner as well. We feel its in our best interest to keep up with the protection when using such products.so you may end up with a few pairs of gogles but just wash them off and you can make some dispicable me glasses







...

please give us some time to release the kits as were kind of overloaded atm and ill need to do the bar codes and all the paperwork ect ect for them first.

Mick


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Same experience I had. Mine started up in November though and turned muddy red in March ..... interestingly enough yours started up in January and started turning on May.....same 4 months before anything happened ?

I assume you performed the cleaning / preparation as on the bottle ? Including wash with acidic (lemon juice or vinegar / sodium bicarb ? NeXXos rads ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oooookkkyyy Spoken to Steve tonight. Were going to create a Part 1 only kit. It will contain Gloves, Goggles and 1 x 250ml of Part 1 cleaner as well. We feel its in our best interest to keep up with the protection when using such products.so you may end up with a few pairs of gogles but just wash them off and you can make some dispicable me glasses
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> please give us some time to release the kits as were kind of overloaded atm and ill need to do the bar codes and all the paperwork ect ect for them first.
> 
> Mick


That is good news..... hopefully OCNers will contribute to the radiator volume thread and we will have a source to easily figure out what we need.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oooookkkyyy Spoken to Steve tonight. Were going to create a Part 1 only kit. It will contain Gloves, Goggles and 1 x 250ml of Part 1 cleaner as well. We feel its in our best interest to keep up with the protection when using such products.so you may end up with a few pairs of gogles but just wash them off and you can make some dispicable me glasses
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> please give us some time to release the kits as were kind of overloaded atm and ill need to do the bar codes and all the paperwork ect ect for them first.
> 
> Mick


Yaaay


----------



## Jeronbernal

so... not sure if its just the mayhems site.. but ive noticed it still says its not for use in a home system.. assuming that means it's not stable for long term use, is this true? or does the new mayhems last longer without separating etc?

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/aurora-guide.html#.U41fUfldVZ8


----------



## RpeeKooz

Hi guys.with the pastel it says 250ml to 750ml distilled. I have 2 bottles of mayhem red.which makes 2L my system holds just over 2L can I make one mix abit weaker say 900ml of distilled.and add some red dye to get the same effect. I would like a red as bright as possible.
Is all this possible


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> so... not sure if its just the mayhems site.. but ive noticed it still says its not for use in a home system.. assuming that means it's not stable for long term use, is this true? or does the new mayhems last longer without separating etc?
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/aurora-guide.html#.U41fUfldVZ8


They probably just haven't updated the guide to include Aurora V2 yet


----------



## Jeronbernal

i just want to be able to confirm Hydra gold V2 would be a long term use coolant, any idea?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> Hi guys.with the pastel it says 250ml to 750ml distilled. I have 2 bottles of mayhem red.which makes 2L my system holds just over 2L can I make one mix abit weaker say 900ml of distilled.and add some red dye to get the same effect. I would like a red as bright as possible.
> Is all this possible


Especially with Pastel, you should follow the mix instructions to the letter. I know it sucks, but buy the 3rd bottle and save the extra in the 3 original bottles the concentrate came in once you have topped up your loop and aired it out.


----------



## Mayhem

Hydra Gold is not available in A2. Its only in normal Aurora.

On FB we have a comp for a "Free Mayhems Blitz Pro Kit". Jump on if you wish to win one







.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hydra Gold is not available in A2.


whew thank god you said that XD was very close to picking that one, i assumed just because on PPCS it says **NEW** XD no info about whether it's v.2 or not, is there a list of which are the v.2's?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hydra Gold is not available in A2. Its only in normal Aurora.
> 
> On FB we have a comp for a "Free Mayhems Blitz Pro Kit". Jump on if you wish to win one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Posted and shared as well.


----------



## nathanblandford

Hey guys just thought id give people my experoence. I love the x1 blood red and i added a touch more deep red dye to give it a blood type looke. I have used the advanced lrt pro tubing and im sad to say mine has started to take on a yellowish tinge as if i shine a white led light through the tubing with the liquid in it it looks orangey brown.

However i have the photon pump res and the glass res still shows the exact same colour coolant as when i put it in. I did do the vinegar flush on only the rads when i first got them and it actually did help remove gungy water and a piece of brass actualy came out which scared me (looked like some sort of braizing/solder?) but couldnt turn back.

If it matter im using alphacool rads so im not sure how i feel about them. But yeah ill try and take some pics and post them up. Also the system has been running since jan/feb.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

While I love the Alphacool features (performance, screw protectors, 7 ports), but Mayhems has repeatedly spoken to the residues left by their final cleaning / washing process or lack thereof. I did extensive flushing and both acidic and base treatments followed by a week on pure DW. My pastel went from RoG red to muddy bloody river in 4 month of use, almost overnight. Mick recommends the Blitz Cleaning Kit as the problem solver and I'll definitely use it before reloading pastel again.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> While I love the Alphacool features (performance, screw protectors, 7 ports), but Mayhems has repeatedly spoken to the residues left by their final cleaning / washing process or lack thereof. I did extensive flushing and both acidic and base treatments followed by a week on pure DW. My pastel went from RoG red to muddy bloody river in 4 month of use, almost overnight. Mick recommends the Blitz Cleaning Kit as the problem solver and I'll definitely use it before reloading pastel again.


Only thing I like about the Alphacool rads is the multiple ports, lol. I still pick HWLabs pretty much every day of the week tho.


----------



## Nightingale

IS 1 bottle of Pastel enough for a RX480 Rad +150ml res?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I used 2 in a 420 + 280 and 250mm res so my thinking is ya might be a little short .... I was hoping we could create a resource of Rad volumes would be useful to peeps following this thread but no takers so far unfortunately

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493339/the-radiator-volume-thread


----------



## Mayhem

We are finding over time our Advance LRT is going yellowish how ever even though this is happening its still one of the best flexible tubing out there. Out of all the tubing we have tested over the years i still will only recommend that tubing for now. PC Water cooling has its quirks and were a fickle bunch who expect above and beyond the best how ever sometimes thats impossible and there is no 100% perfect tubing as of yet .... Maybe one day there will be but as things stand The primochill Advance LRT is the best.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We are finding over time our Advance LRT is going yellowish how ever even though this is happening its still one of the best flexible tubing out there. Out of all the tubing we have tested over the years i still will only recommend that tubing for now. PC Water cooling has its quirks and were a fickle bunch who expect above and beyond the best how ever sometimes thats impossible and there is no 100% perfect tubing as of yet .... Maybe one day there will be but as things stand The primochill Advance LRT is the best.


No acrylic luv







sent my LRT back and switched to acrylic. Partly because i wanted to from the get go but once i heard the yellow tint happening i had to pull the plug.


----------



## Kokin

The yellowish tint isn't really visible until draining all the coolant out. I noticed that my coolant stays the same color/tint despite the yellowing of the tubing.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Anyone here ever gold plate or electroplate a waterblocks copper heatsink? would it be safe?


----------



## nathanblandford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We are finding over time our Advance LRT is going yellowish how ever even though this is happening its still one of the best flexible tubing out there. Out of all the tubing we have tested over the years i still will only recommend that tubing for now. PC Water cooling has its quirks and were a fickle bunch who expect above and beyond the best how ever sometimes thats impossible and there is no 100% perfect tubing as of yet .... Maybe one day there will be but as things stand The primochill Advance LRT is the best.


Yeah thats why i initially used it. I still will despite the yellowing i was just a bit sad. Love the colours though. I think i may dabble with acrylic next time too.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> No acrylic luv
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sent my LRT back and switched to acrylic. Partly because i wanted to from the get go but once i heard the yellow tint happening i had to pull the plug.


I used rigid acrylic tubing with one exception. In consideration of the push-on joints and anxious to reduce vibration from the 35x2 pump to the loop, I used two short pieces of flexible tubing. I had worked for an engineering consulting firm who also ran a laboratory that did water testing for drinking water utilities and I was drawn to what they use. One of the problems with any tubing with a plasticizer (see note below) is that something has to be added in the formulation to get flexibility and it's hard to get flexibility and resistance to water absorption. And while the types of tubing generally sold in water cooling applications does have low water absorption ( say 0.30 %), that is till enough to allow some of the liquid to be "absorbed". Various types of rigid tubing are sometimes listed as < 0.01% as that is the limit of the testing equipment used in the test. I have only found one tubing that has water absorption at that level (Tygon 2475) and that's what I used for my 2 short links of flex tubing on the inlet / outlet of the pump. Of course this search is complicated by the fact that most tubing manufacturers don't publish this data. Tygon has to as it's required for laboratory certification.

It's not quite crystal clear brand spankin new but I have had it in for 6 months and it's not changed at all.

As to the plasticizer and "plasticizer free" claims...... the plasticizer is what makes the tubing bendable. When some companies say "plasticizer free" what they actually means is "free from DEHP [Bis (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate] plasticizers". Europe and California proposition 65 led the charge for getting these plasticizers removed on production lines making food products as plasticizers leached out (as we all know) and these chemicals in food products are hazardous to your health.... and I believe the correct scientific term is "icky" when it leaches out into ya cooling system.


----------



## pompss

I'm using aurora with Advance LRT for 6 month now and i agree with mayhem that the tubing is going yellowish but you cant really notice it when aurora is inside running.Also the aurora effect look like the first day. So the best tube for aurora is Advance LRT no doubt.
Soon i wanna make some test with acrylic tubing and aurora and see what happens.
Someone have some exp with acrylic tube and aurora at least for 3-6 months??


----------



## ZephyrBit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> I'm using aurora with Advance LRT for 6 month now and i agree with mayhem that the tubing is going yellowish but you cant really notice it when aurora is inside running.Also the aurora effect look like the first day. So the best tube for aurora is Advance LRT no doubt.
> Soon i wanna make some test with acrylic tubing and aurora and see what happens.
> Someone have some exp with acrylic tube and aurora at least for 3-6 months??


Aurora 2 I assume?


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZephyrBit*
> 
> Aurora 2 I assume?


Aurora 2 is not out yet .
I wish i had some


----------



## JackNaylorPE

It's out .... resellers may still be pushing old stock tho


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> It's out .... resellers may still be pushing old stock tho


Really?
how i can order the right one??


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Trust your reseller to be truthful









I have heard (this thread) that the new bottles / new advertising says **New** or something to that effect as I recall. Haven't confirmed in any way tho.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Trust your reseller to be truthful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have heard (this thread) that the new bottles / new advertising says **New** or something to that effect as I recall. Haven't confirmed in any way tho.


I saw some video time ago that new aurora should change color and last more longer.
If the difference is only that last more longer there is no way to know if is the new one or the old one.
I use the old one for 6 month now and there is no big difference since the first day.
Possible that no one here in overclock.net have tested the new aurora??
Can someone confirm that the new one change color ??


----------



## gdubc

The aurora I saw at my local microcenter said new and improved in a little bubble on the lower right of the bottle.


----------



## Mayhem

@gdubc That's correct there is a small bubble that says new and improved.

Ive spoken to steve yesterday there is too much confusion between old and new so were going to do something that will change that.

1) Old aurora will be priced dropped to £7.00 a bottle Once its gone its gone
2) New stickers and bar codes created for Aurora 2
3) New Price for Aurora 2
4) Only 3 colours for A2 (Clear, Red, Blue) anything else use dyes to create it.

This should clear up confusion.

Mick


----------



## gdubc

So some clear and then some dye and I can get Miami Dolphins orange and aqua green in my dual loop? Any suggestions on getting that aqua? I am wanting the darker aqua like this,


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Not the lighter shade of the new emblem.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mayhem

That just yellow and blue to create that colour. Ocean blue would be close to what you need.


----------



## gdubc

Thanks! Now if I could only get microcenter to carry your dyes. Looks to be mail order time again...


----------



## sena

So how is new aurora 2, can it be use on long distance or?

btw currently using two mayhems products, biocid and red dye.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @gdubc That's correct there is a small bubble that says new and improved.
> 
> 4) Only 3 colours for A2 (Clear, Red, Blue) anything else use dyes to create it.
> 
> Mick


A. After removing the red pastel and cleaning with Blitz Kit, I was considering doing the Red Aurora 2 for several reasons:

1. My temps are only in mid 70s at max OC under stress testing and never break 65 in any daily usage so if there's a slight reduction in cooling, no issue.
2. I do recall you (or was it someone else) saying the pastels were the only ones affected by the darkening phenomenon where rad residue was affecting pH.
3. It sure does look better.

So my question is .... how is the Aurora affected by the dyes compared to the pastels ? I bought two 15ml red to add to the red pastel (was going for Mushkin / Asus RoG Red) and was surprised how slowly it changed color. Two bottles got me close but came up a little bit short. Reason I ask is having to buy another bottle results in shipping being greater than product costs







.

Any suggestions form your "colorist" would be most helpful.

B. BTW, my compliments on accommodating the community on the Blitz Part 1 addition and the changes with regard to Aurora.

C. I recommended the basic Cleaning System I saw on ya web site the other day for someone who just wanted to clean out and flush their wholes system.....I found the Part 1 / Part 2 Set on both FCPU and PPCs but no "basic" system ..... will that be sold here in the colonies anytime soon ?


----------



## Doc3379

Kitchen lighting kinda washes out the Pastel Red color.


Somebody said something the other day about how much fluid it would take to fill up a system. It took me about 1.7-1.8 liters of Pastel Red to fill up my loop.


----------



## Mayhem

@JackNaylorPE Pastel is a ZNO based nano formula and Aurora is a Mix of Nano / Micron pearl effect with inhibitor, surfactant defoamer and a few other ingredients. The main Issue with pastel is the surfactant used is PH sensitive and this is what makes the dye change colour via a knock on effect. How ever if you don't clean a rad and dirt gets in the liquid it will change colour no matter what brand or make of coolant you use.


----------



## VSG

Got the Blitz Pro kit from PPC, you guys did a pretty good job value wise


----------



## Newtocooling

I just started part 2 of my blitz kit and was just wondering if this level of foam is ok? The res on the right really foamed up the one on the left not so bad.



I know I'm supposed to flush with distilled water twice after this should I be running any ration of baking soda as well to bring down the PH before I had my pastel in one loop and X-1 in the other?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Aurora 2 is not out yet .
> I wish i had some


It is out







not all colors though


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I just started part 2 of my blitz kit and was just wondering if this level of foam is ok? The res on the right really foamed up the one on the left not so bad.
> I know I'm supposed to flush with distilled water twice after this should I be running any ration of baking soda as well to bring down the PH before I had my pastel in one loop and X-1 in the other?


Yes that level of foam is normal. Rinse out when finished and follow instructions that are in the box that is all you need to do.

Mick


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Thank You Blitz users and others .... radiator volume thread filling in

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493339/the-radiator-volume-thread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @JackNaylorPE Pastel is a ZNO based nano formula and Aurora is a Mix of Nano / Micron pearl effect with inhibitor, surfactant defoamer and a few other ingredants. The main Issie with pastel is the surfactant used is PH sensitive and this is what makes the dye change colour via a knock on effect. How ever if you don't clean a rad and dirt gets in the liquid it will change colour no matter what brand or make of coolant you use.


I did a complete and thorough cleaning.....more than the bottles prescribed ..... including "pH attacks"







with both below 7 and above 7 (acidic solution / base solution) solutions followed by a 5 gpm flush, distilled water flushes and finally ran a full week on distilled water before flushing twice more and filling with pastel. For 4 months after putting in the pastel and 3 months after adding the dye, it was gorgeous. So if there was dirt in the liquid, I gotta think it would have been visible after any one of those steps. I filtered the 2 liters of distilled water after running that a week and found nothing but a paint flake that must have come off one of the Bitspower fittings; I had the lab (I am in water treatment industry and do lots of water sampling) test the pH of the week old DW and it was 7.03.

So I'm pretty sure there was no "dirt" in there as it would not have taken 4 months to "suddenly" show up. When I drain the loop, I will send the stuff out for pH testing and forward the test results if it's any use to you.

I did note that the color change happened within days of my doing some elevated stress testing. I wanted to get temps up a bit so ran P95 with fans at lowest possible speed (325 rpm). CPU temps reached mid to low 80s and coolant temps hovered in upper 30's almost 40C. Possible causes that occured too me were:

1. The temp had an effect on something in the coolant (not likely I think as you would have seen that in your testing and user shave far higher temps than mine)
2. The elevated temps made something in the rad (coating, solder, whatever) more reactive or something scaled off exposing surfaces below to the pastel's surfactant and that's why it didn't surface till then. (my best guess)
3. The above two guesses are totally off base and I have no clue whatsover










_But I was passed all that, no concerns about what might have happened ...._ my questions are related to what's next. Moving on from that experience I wanna get the ugly stuff out and something new in. I have two choices..... after blitzing it, I can either:

a) Refill with 2 bottles of pastel and 2 bottles of red dye just like the 1st time (maybe 3 dyes) confident that the blitz makes everything right with the world.
b) Switch to Aurora 2 which seems much more attractive as a) temp difference is no concern with my hottest temps in 70s, b) it looks a lot better and 3) to my recollection Aurora is not affected by the pH / surfactant issue

Seems like a win / win / win situation to go with Aurora.

What I'm looking to find out if I can:

1. Any dumb logic in my b) choice above ?

2. How is Aurora affected by dyes as compared to pastels ? .... the pastel was very resistant to color changes; two 15ml bottles got me close to my target. I'd like to guess right in the initial order as shipping costs more than the product if have to buy another bottle and of course can't close up the box until delivery man comes again making wifie unhappy since she still calls my PC Workbench her "dining room table". From the video on the web site, it looks like 1 drop does wonders.

If your "colorist" has any suggestions for matching Aurora to Asus RoG / Mushkin Redine Red, I'd be most appreciative of any suggestions.



3. I have recommended the basic cleaning kit (not the two parter) twice to users in other forums for light cleaning however can't seem to find it anywhere in the colonies.....will it be offered for sale here on this side of the pond ?

So with FCPU having the Blitz Pro kit in stock, I am anxious to get the order in and be on my way to clean rads and possibly a new look ASAP. Gonna need something to do w/ my Sunday Night when GoT ends !


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> So my question is .... how is the Aurora affected by the dyes compared to the pastels ? I bought two 15ml red to add to the red pastel (was going for Mushkin / Asus RoG Red) and was surprised how slowly it changed color. Two bottles got me close but came up a little bit short. Reason I ask is having to buy another bottle results in shipping being greater than product costs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I used the Aurora 2 clear/white supernova and it required very little dye to get a deep color, orange in this case. Not even close to a whole 15ml bottle of dye (orange in this case). It dyes very easily.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Much Thz James..... the video on Mayhems site indicates that ....

That takes care of Question 2. Hoping for the answer on Questions 1 and 3 by end of weekend so I can order my stuff and get back to those folksies.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Much Thz James..... the video on Mayhems site indicates that ....
> 
> That takes care of Question 2. Hoping for the answer on Questions 1 and 3 by end of weekend so I can order my stuff and get back to those folksies.


For question 1, Aurora is not as sensitive to pH as Pastel, so it won't change color as easy should you have a pH that is slightly off.
For question 3, Only the pro kits are currently sold in the US, at least for now.

I'd still recommend running part 2 of blitz as it will help the aurora particles out, as well as help move any other crap that may still have been trapped in the rads or elsewhere in your system


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Yes, I am aware that the Basic Kits are not sold here....yet. I am trying to find out if that is going to change. I have no use for one but others have asked me to recommend something for their situation and that's the best thing I have seen. The two users I am referring to are peeps with older system with no issues, who are just doing routine maintenance and swapping coolants after 13 and 20 months and have no need to descale rads and no interest in taking system apart. This is for simple flush and coolant swap not rad prepping.

My pH was 7.03 after a week of DW in the system by itself before I put the Pastel in. I did a very thorough cleaning and I'm pretty danged sure those rads were fine going in. So I have been wondering of late what else could have caused the pH drop if not the Rads...... I now am beginning to question the pH of the distilled water going in. So in addition to testing the Pastel next week, I am going to get some new DW and test it right after opening the container and every few hours.

What I neglected to do at the time of the build was remember my college days as a lab assistant. While pondering the issue, out of the fog of my mispent youth, I did remember the pH of water decreases from exposure to CO2 in air. I think there's one thing missing from the instruction set. Check the pH of the DW. My guess is if the pastel is affected by pH then at which pH does it become significant ? The better question being, .... is the normal pH of distilled water (No, it's not 7) enough to affect it ?

I had a gallon of water that I used about half of to do the start up ... that one week on distilled water. That other half gallon of water sat around for a week in a half filled container, the other half of which was air of course. I had bought some extra fittings and I used about 2 ounces of water to soak them for a few hours before heading out for a site inspection and neglected to cap the container while I was gone.

So I have been wondering last few days if the CO2 in the air would have reacted with the DW and affected the pH enough to cause a problem ...... ever hear the stories about Cola taking paint off cars ? Well Cola has a pH of about 2.5 .... if you let it go flat, the pH rises as the CO2 leaves the drink. CO2 naturally will dissolve in the water to form carbonic acid....(H20 + CO2 = H2CO3)

So depending upon how long the DW sits around and is exposed to air, it will absorb CO2 until I imagine some kind of saturation limit is reached at normal air pressure .... I asked the lab and they said that they leave their pH sensor probes in DW when not in use but to calibrate it they need to use fresh DW and a test solution as if left exposed to air overnight, the meter reads between 5.6 and 5.7 the next day. I have no idea how much air it takes to have a significant effect on pH .... with DW, I had no air at all....with the pastel I left an inch of air at the top of the 250mm res. I can't imagine that this little amount of air could drastically affect pH but then again as the system heats up, that air gets put under some pressure and higher pressure means slightly greater CO2 saturation. I gotta set that question aside for someone with a bit more knowledge of chemistry. Either that or use some helium to fill the air gap









Logic dictates that you could just neutralize the carbonic acid with some sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3) but that leaves sodium ions flying around. So next time thru .....

1. Drain Pastel
2. Flush with tap water
3. Blitz Part 1
4. Flush with tap water
5. Blitz Part 2
6. Flush with tap water
7. Flush with DW 2-3 times
8. Open new bottle of DW,
9. Mix quickly with Coolant Concentrate
10. Fill with no air spaces.


----------



## Newtocooling

This maybe a dumb question, but is there a recipe of dyes to change Pastel Green into something that looks more like Emerald Green? I don't want a UV effect just a slightly darker green would be nice.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> This maybe a dumb question, but is there a recipe of dyes to change Pastel Green into something that looks more like Emerald Green? I don't want a UV effect just a slightly darker green would be nice.


I don't know of a recipe, but you could add more green dye and it will darken up for ya


----------



## lucky-9888

Yes, it's very beautiful.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would think to add a dash more blue would darken the green


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I don't know of a recipe, but you could add more green dye and it will darken up for ya


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would think to add a dash more blue would darken the green


I just started looking at some post way back in the forum and people are adding mostly blue and yellow it looks like to get a more vibrant green. Thanks for the tips.


----------



## Newtocooling

This is only my second water cooled build so don't judge me to badly.





I like the green I just think a darker shade would look better in this build.


----------



## McMogg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> This is only my second water cooled build so don't judge me to badly.
> 
> 
> 
> I like the green I just think a darker shade would look better in this build.


What green is that? Just Pastel green or a custom blend?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McMogg*
> 
> What green is that? Just Pastel green or a custom blend?


Just Pastel Green with Mayhems H20, I think it would look better darker too. I'm trying to go for an Nvidia Green and Black theme. I love my Asus motherboard just wish it was a green and black theme too! I really need to learn how to custom wire as well.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Just Pastel Green with Mayhems H20, I think it would look better darker too. I'm trying to go for an Nvidia Green and Black theme. I love my Asus motherboard just wish it was a green and black theme too! I really need to learn how to custom wire as well.


Add more UV Green/Yellow to it. Or just UV green.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/540#post_18272496
http://www.overclock.net/t/1369774/build-log-zfz-professional-caselabs-sm5


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quick question regarding ph levels I have just tested my distilled water that came from my loop it reads 8 on my tester. Is that alright to add my mayhem pastel red or do I gotta do something else to get it down to 7?


----------



## akira749

I just finished my CaseLabs S8 build.

Filled up with some X1 Oil Black!!! I really like it!!!!!!!!


----------



## Stuntfly02

So how can I be sure I am getting the new Aurora? Everything PPCs has is labeled as new and I'm pretty sure I read some pages back it is going to just be like 3 colors for now. I plan to play with some dies anyway so I can get the colors I want just right. Might be ordering quite a few bottles of supernova since I plan to have 2 colors in my loop. Deciding on If I want white and bright red or a gray color instead of white.


----------



## Nightingale

Just a heads up for those wondering how much Pastel is need for certain setups/Rads.

XSPC RX480 V3
EK Supremacy CPU block
EK Waterblock 780 Lightning
150ML res

1 Bottle of Mayhem pastel is was enough since my whole setup filled was 1.2L


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> So how can I be sure I am getting the new Aurora? Everything PPCs has is labeled as new and I'm pretty sure I read some pages back it is going to just be like 3 colors for now. I plan to play with some dies anyway so I can get the colors I want just right. Might be ordering quite a few bottles of supernova since I plan to have 2 colors in my loop. Deciding on If I want white and bright red or a gray color instead of white.


Assuming you're in the U.S. or Canada, New Aurora will be a premix, old aurora will be concentrates. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40728

That /should/ be the new stuff, mayhems is switching to premixes across the board from what I understand.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Zytheeks, would you say they were similarly plated as jewelry?

I have the gold supremacy, but want my gpus blocks to match, and I'm thinking if I could get a jewelsmith/goldsmith to strip my blocks and Plate them gold, it would work out alright, just trying to figure if they ads anything else to the mix to stop it from flaking etc.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I just finished my CaseLabs S8 build.
> 
> Filled up with some X1 Oil Black!!! I really like it!!!!!!!!


Looks Hella bomb bro


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Zytheeks, would you say they were similarly plated as jewelry?
> 
> I have the gold supremacy, but want my gpus blocks to match, and I'm thinking if I could get a jewelsmith/goldsmith to strip my blocks and Plate them gold, it would work out alright, just trying to figure if they ads anything else to the mix to stop it from flaking etc.


You'd have to ask the jeweler how they plate, and to what standards are. My guess is they just use a liquid plating solution, which creates an INCREDIBLY thin layer and would likely not work very well. The underlaying layer could begin to corrode and cause the plated layer to "flake" off if it's not thick enough. Ideally you want 30micron thick plating, though even much of the liquid cooling industry doesn't abide by that guideline, for instance EK only does 17micron plating. I wouldn't recommend having a jeweler plate it, generally they just plate things for aesthetics so they don't abide by any rules/regs corrosion control or quality control for their platings.


----------



## Jeronbernal

I might have to give up my idea of gold 780ti blocks lol

I guess the gold backplates will be fine, it just sounded so nice lol

Maybe it's for the better, don't want to compromise my rig over a aesthetic piece that just stares at the floor lol


----------



## RpeeKooz

I have just filled my system up with mayhem pastel red. I used 2 bottle of pastel it's turned out kinda pinkish.what can I do to achieve a bright red colour?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> I have just filled my system up with mayhem pastel red. I used 2 bottle of pastel it's turned out kinda pinkish.what can I do to achieve a bright red colour?


If you want it to be a deeper red, then add some red or deep red dye. If you want to change the tone a bit, say blood red, then add a touch of blue.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> I have just filled my system up with mayhem pastel red. I used 2 bottle of pastel it's turned out kinda pinkish.what can I do to achieve a bright red colour?


A couple of questions to troubleshoot the cause:
Did you by any chance dilute it at all?
Did you vigorously shake/mix prior to filling?

Anyways, cyphons better with pastel mixing than I am, so basically this vvv
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> If you want it to be a deeper red, then add some red or deep red dye. If you want to change the tone a bit, say blood red, then add a touch of blue.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I just finished my CaseLabs S8 build.
> 
> Filled up with some X1 Oil Black!!! I really like it!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks Hella bomb bro
Click to expand...

Thanks


----------



## RX7-2nr

This is Mayhems Dark Blue dye, distilled water, and Primochill Advanced LRT clear tubing. The color in the tubing is much lighter than I expected it to be. It matches my motherboard's heatsinks, but I would have preferred it to be more consistent. I used a crapload of dye, maybe 25 drops.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightingale*
> 
> Just a heads up for those wondering how much Pastel is need for certain setups/Rads.
> 
> XSPC RX480 V3
> EK Supremacy CPU block
> EK Waterblock 780 Lightning
> 150ML res
> 
> 1 Bottle of Mayhem pastel is was enough since my whole setup filled was 1.2L


Do you know what rad was ? .....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493339/the-radiator-volume-thread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> I have just filled my system up with mayhem pastel red. I used 2 bottle of pastel it's turned out kinda pinkish.what can I do to achieve a bright red colour?


That was my experience.... my kids asked if I filled it with Strawberry Slushies from 7-Eleven







I added two 15ml of red dye to bring it close to RoG / Mushkin Red



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> I have just filled my system up with mayhem pastel red. I used 2 bottle of pastel it's turned out kinda pinkish.what can I do to achieve a bright red colour?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Assuming you're in the U.S. or Canada, New Aurora will be a premix, old aurora will be concentrates. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40728
> 
> That /should/ be the new stuff, mayhems is switching to premixes across the board from what I understand.


Was my understanding from reading here that both would be offered.

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/aurora-coolants/aurora-concentrate-250ml.html


----------



## Mayhem

Steve has been ;playing hes no longer a colour virgin ->




On a new note price drop on Aurora and Aurora 2 is now being rolled out at our end and will take time to start rolling worldwide with new labels.

Dont forget were UK based so it will take time to roll across the pond..

We may create a limited amount of A2 in the above 2 colours.


----------



## VSG

Oh man they look so good! Mick, please let us know if you do go ahead with these and if PPC is getting them.

Is your Blitz facebook contest done?


----------



## Ksireaper

Can Aurora 2 be used in a daily use machine, or is it for show machines as well?


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Do you know what rad was ? .....
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493339/the-radiator-volume-thread
> That was my experience.... my kids asked if I filled it with Strawberry Slushies from 7-Eleven
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added two 15ml of red dye to bring it close to RoG / Mushkin Red
> 
> 
> 
> Was my understanding from reading here that both would be offered.
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/aurora-coolants/aurora-concentrate-250ml.html


So did u use 2 bottles of pastel then add the 2 dye bottles?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Steve has been ;playing hes no longer a colour virgin ->
> 
> 
> *snip*
> .


Ah, wonderful. Now I can fulfill my dream of a root bear float build.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ksireaper*
> 
> Can Aurora 2 be used in a daily use machine, or is it for show machines as well?


Aurora 1 can be used in a rig for daily use, it just needs to be used in a small loop with parts that work well with Aurora. Aurora 2 isn't much different in this sense, other than it can be used in much larger loops with less selective parts. From what I understand it shouldn't be kept in a loop for longer than 12 months due to it's surfactant. It should be fine for a bigger loop, just don't expect it to work miracles like using it in the TFC Monsta rad or something like that.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> So did u use 2 bottles of pastel then add the 2 dye bottles?


Yes.... Originally started with just the 2 bottles of pastel and 1.5 Liters of water .... after much ribbing about my strawberry slushie mix from kids and clients, I added the 2 bottles of dye.....squeezing drops outta those bottles within the tight confines of even a large PC case can be hard on the thumbs after the 1st 100 drops or so







.


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yes.... Originally started with just the 2 bottles of pastel and 1.5 Liters of water .... after much ribbing about my strawberry slushie mix from kids and clients, I added the 2 bottles of dye.....squeezing drops outta those bottles within the tight confines of even a large PC case can be hard on the thumbs after the 1st 100 drops or so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Hahaha Yeh I eventually did the same I only used 1 bottle of dye. Its a colour I can live with but still not 100% happy with it.pain in the ass trying to squeeze it in res. I'll hopefully post pictures sometime today


----------



## ROGX

Someone help me quick!!
Im about to buy my coolant and rad, but idk how much coolant to get??
My setup will consist of a 360 45mm rad, cpu block, EK-RES X3 250.
Do i get the 1 liter pre-mixed coolant, or the 250ml concentrate?? Whats the difference?
will 1 liter be enought??
Thanks


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROGX*
> 
> Someone help me quick!!
> Im about to buy my coolant and rad, but idk how much coolant to get??
> My setup will consist of a 360 45mm rad, cpu block, EK-RES X3 250.
> Do i get the 1 liter pre-mixed coolant, or the 250ml concentrate?? Whats the difference?
> will 1 liter be enought??
> Thanks


Which coolant specifically? X1 and XT-1 will both make two liters with a 250ml bottle of concentrate. Aurora and pastel concentrates both make 1 liter. As to premix vs concentrate, whatever floats your boat, it's all the same stuff one just comes with less labor while the other comes with more labor and cheaper shipping. I would imagine you could squeak by with 1 liter of coolant with that setup but the coolant level in the res might be a bit low, so I'd get two liters just to play it safe. You can store any unused coolant in an opaque bottle in a cool dark room like a closet or something along those lines. Do not store it in the garage!


----------



## Mayhem

Just in our lab our new High Performance "TTQPHF" radiators have arrived for testing.. These new kick ass Rads should perform better than any thing on the market and is a 100% Mayhems design ... Each rad is sonic cleaned at the manufacturing stage pre painting.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just in our lab our new High Performance "TTQPHF" radiators have arrived for testing.. These new kick ass Rads should perform better than any thing on the market and is a 100% Mayhems design ... Each rad is sonic cleaned at the manufacturing stage pre painting.


Get some samples out to Bundymania then. I'd like to see how it performs against the XSPC RX 360 V3. I really need to replace my piece of crap TFC X-Changer 360.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just in our lab our new High Performance "TTQPHF" radiators have arrived for testing.. These new kick ass Rads should perform better than any thing on the market and is a 100% Mayhems design ... Each rad is sonic cleaned at the manufacturing stage pre painting.


You have my attention.

You have a target release date? Also what sizes will you have?

Sorry excitement is getting the best of me


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just in our lab our new High Performance "TTQPHF" radiators have arrived for testing.. These new kick ass Rads should perform better than any thing on the market and is a 100% Mayhems design ... Each rad is sonic cleaned at the manufacturing stage pre painting.


So finally someone decided to preclean the rads to prevent issues in the long run for the rest of us


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just in our lab our new High Performance "TTQPHF" radiators have arrived for testing.. These new kick ass Rads should perform better than any thing on the market and is a 100% Mayhems design ... Each rad is sonic cleaned at the manufacturing stage pre painting.


More rads? But I already have so many. I guess one more shouldn't hurt


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROGX*
> 
> Someone help me quick!!
> Im about to buy my coolant and rad, but idk how much coolant to get??
> My setup will consist of a 360 45mm rad, cpu block, EK-RES X3 250.
> Do i get the 1 liter pre-mixed coolant, or the 250ml concentrate?? Whats the difference?
> will 1 liter be enought??
> Thanks


I have a 420 + 280 w/ same res and it took 1.9 liters.

What you get depends on what ya wanna pay for shipping.









If what you have chosen comes in 250ml concentrate and 1 liter pre-mix, it would seem your choice is:

Buy the 1000 ml pre-mix
Buy the 250 ml concentrate and add 750 ml DW to mix your own 1000 ml


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just in our lab our new High Performance "TTQPHF" radiators have arrived for testing.. These new kick ass Rads should perform better than any thing on the market and is a 100% Mayhems design ... Each rad is sonic cleaned at the manufacturing stage pre painting.


What's the fin density look like on those?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> More rads? But I already have so many. I guess one more shouldn't hurt


More rads never hurt


----------



## VSG

Are you offering to buy me one, then?









Hey Mick, any chance of a 5x120/140mm rad? Bitspower has really dropped the ball on their promised radiator series from last year.


----------



## Mayhem

Lol we need to test it first and if im happy ill see about a external testers. This all takes time.

The only sizes we will make will be 360mm and 240mm to start with. We don't see the point of 120mm or 480mm as were looking for quick sales and shifting stock not holding onto it







.

I cannot tell you dimensions or fin den or anything just yet ..

*If someone guesses what the "TTQPHF" means ill send them a free blitz Pro kit







.*


----------



## DarthBaggins

oooh I could use a 240 or 2







I need to change out the 120 rad I have. . .


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Lol we need to test it first and if im happy ill see about a external testers. This all takes time.
> 
> The only sizes we will make will be 360mm and 240mm to start with. We don't see the point of 120mm or 480mm as were looking for quick sales and ****ing stock not holding onto it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I cannot tell you dimensions or fin den or anything just yet ..
> 
> *If someone guesses what the "TTQPHF" means ill send them a free blitz Pro kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .*


"The Top Quality Product with High Fin-density"?







.

I give up. And yeah, you should get some external testers for it! (hint)


----------



## VSG

lol I was about to say pretty much the same thing

Unless PHF is a polymer hexafluoride, HF has to be High Fin. This leaves the naming scheme open for MF/LF series later if these rads are successful.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol I was about to say pretty much the same thing
> 
> Unless PHF is a polymer hexafluoride, HF has to be High Fin. This leaves the naming scheme open for MF/LF series later if these rads are successful.


Highly doubt he is using Sulfur Hexafluoride in his radiator line


----------



## VSG

lol who said anything about that? A lot of polymers with fluoride functional groups are just fine as casing/shells and I can see them being used to hold the inner core similar to the aluminum shell in the XSPC AX series.


----------



## McMogg

Twin Tank Quad Pass High Flow?
End tanks on both ends, quad pass design and a high flow rate?
I'd love a blitz kit


----------



## DeXel

I'll take a shot:

True Thermal Quad Pass High Fin
True Thermal Quad Pass High Flow
The True Quad Pass High Fin
The True Quad Pass High Flow

Also can anybody tell me if white pastel (no dye) color stains blocks? I might replace X1 clear with Pastel white when maintenance time comes.


----------



## VSG

Oooh that's not a bad guess, is it? I would love it to be true but twin tanks make it hard to fit rads in typical cases with barely enough spacing for the spec'ed rad mounts.


----------



## Mayhem

T? T? Quad Pass High Flow is correct so far. so whos gonna get the free Pro Kit


----------



## VSG

Better not be Thermal Take









Speaking of, is one of the "T" Thermal? What about T for Tank?


----------



## Mayhem

Nope .... Keep an eye on Thermal Take though there stepping up a gear and are upping there game. gone are the days of cheap and nasty water cooling







.


----------



## VSG

Ya, saw their products from Computex. Major overhaul done, so I am looking forward to see what they got.

Twin (or Two) Tube Quad Pass High Flow?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

The Tankless Quad Pass High Flow

Two (Twin) Tank Quad Pass High Flow

Twin Tap Quad Pass High Flow

Triple (Tri) Tube Quad Pass High Flow


----------



## VSG

Two/Twin Thread(ed) Quad Pass High Flow?

We are drawing straws here, Mick









Edit: T for Thermochill?


----------



## akira749

True Titanium Quad Pass High Flow
Tankless Titanium Quad Pass High Flow


----------



## DeXel

Trans Thread?


----------



## VSG

Thermochill (M4) Tapped/Threaded Quad Pass High Flow

Thermochill Tankless Quad Pass High Flow

Fairly sure it has nothing to do with Thermochill but wanted to be certain.


----------



## Mayhem

*Kinaesthetic* is the winner Email me you full name, address and telephone number and ill send you out a Blitz Pro Kit

Triple Tube Quad Pass High Flow is what it means.

Well done all.


----------



## VSG

Fair enough, but the git got the idea of Tube from my earlier post and edited it in









Congrats mate!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *Kinaesthetic* is the winner Email me you full name, address and telephone number and ill send you out a Blitz Pro Kit
> 
> Triple Tube Quad Pass High Flow is what it means.
> 
> Well done all.


Gratz @Kinaesthetic


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *Kinaesthetic* is the winner Email me you full name, address and telephone number and ill send you out a Blitz Pro Kit
> 
> Triple Tube Quad Pass High Flow is what it means.
> 
> Well done all.


I knew that going through your posting history would bear some fruit .

Remembered this thread and found out you posted this in it!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky you do realise joining all the tubes together would be very expensive and also would not be efficient in any way. The costs involved for a one off would be very high esp at the level you are needing. As for depth 45mm is easy and FPI is easy enough.
> 
> Personally looking at your requirements you better off with a black Ice quad pass system. The basic cost of a sample would be £250 to start with and thats without any extras and a simple design. Going 6 ports increases the price and it will also depend on if you go single, double or *triple tube*.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Fair enough, but the git got the idea of Tube from my earlier post and edited it in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats mate!


Heh, we all worked together to find the answer. That tube idea did give me the idea to search Mayhem's posting history, which found that post above !


----------



## VSG

Not bad at all, I was looking at his threads on other forums but should have done this one first.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Some real guess....some just for fun

Twin Turbo Quad Pass High Flow
TeleTubbies Quad Pass High Flow
Twin Transfer Quad Pass High Flow
Twin Towers Quad Pass High Flow
Two Towers Quad Pass High Flow
Triple Tube Quad Pass High Flow
Torpedo Tube Quad Pass High Flow
Temperature Tested Quad Pass High Flow
Tube Transfer Quad Pass High Flow
Thru Tube Quad Pass High Flow
Two Tattas Quad Pass High Flow

EDIT : late again ... story of my life


----------



## DarthBaggins

All I know is I want a rad once they're ready for us to test out/use







Want to move the Black Ice GT Crossflow and Swiftech 240 to the Lazarus build and the 120 into the Source 210 build.


----------



## ZytheEKS

The
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Some real guess....some just for fun
> 
> Twin Turbo Quad Pass High Flow
> TeleTubbies Quad Pass High Flow
> Twin Transfer Quad Pass High Flow
> Twin Towers Quad Pass High Flow
> Two Towers Quad Pass High Flow
> Triple Tube Quad Pass High Flow
> Torpedo Tube Quad Pass High Flow
> Temperature Tested Quad Pass High Flow
> Tube Transfer Quad Pass High Flow
> Thru Tube Quad Pass High Flow
> Two Tattas Quad Pass High Flow
> 
> EDIT : late again ... story of my life


screw it, let's just call it a tactical nuclear penguin!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> The
> screw it, let's just call it a tactical nuclear penguin!


I was sure that you'd go for the tattas one !


----------



## Mayhem

Ill find a small prize to send out to geggeg as Kinaesthetic says you deserve it and he feels bad







@grggeg send over you details for me to get some thing out to you.









Mick


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> The
> screw it, let's just call it a tactical nuclear penguin!
> 
> 
> 
> I was sure that you'd go for the tattas one !
Click to expand...

And I was so sure the TT was for Totally Tattas too









D.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ill find a small prize to send out to geggeg as Kinaesthetic says you deserve it and he feels bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @grggeg send over you details for me to get some thing out to you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mick


Mick, I really don't know what to say. I guess I am finally on the Mayhems coolant bandwagon for life now.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And I was so sure the TT was for Totally Tattas too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


I was so close to saying "you and Darlene" on that one


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> screw it, let's just call it a *tactical nuclear penguin*!


Love it. Someone better design something and call it this


----------



## psycho84

@Mayhem

I love it







(Pastel Red)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> I love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Pastel Red)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good, nice clean build! Only thing is that I'd put in some deep red dye to get it a little more red and match those PCI/RAM slots


----------



## psycho84

I will do when i put in the Acrylic Tubes


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> I love it: (Pastel Red)


This was inspiration for my build and coolant choice.....lotta scrolling before ya see acrylic and coolant

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33364-Maximus-VI-Formula-Show-Casemod-MbK


----------



## psycho84

Nice Build !

I think in the next two Weeks i will get the Acrylic Tubing and eager how it looks. I want to use as less as possible angels...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I resemble that remark..... strictly a horizontal / vertical / right angles kinda guy.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Love it. Someone better design something and call it this


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*


Want! Where can I find it?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Want! Where can I find it?


Don't think they still brew it. It was made as more of a bragging rights novelty as it was the strongest beer in the world for a while & 32% alcohol but some other company has that title now so... idk


----------



## RX7-2nr

What's the difference between Deep Blue and Dark Blue?


----------



## Mayhem

They are the same its old name vs new name.


----------



## RX7-2nr

Awesome, thanks.


----------



## Jeronbernal

really need some help guys. Need to figure out which dye/coolant color i should use... if i should use any color at all. or if i should just use clear/uv or mayhems pure h2o. or what.

i just finished my tubing for this last build, and seriously have no idea what to make it !!!

As for personal supply of coolant... i have mayhems in the following....

2 250ml Pastel Ice White Conc.
1 250ml Blood Red X1 Conc.
1 250ml Pastel Black Conc.
1 250ml X1 UV Red
1 250ml Aurora Tharsis Red
1 15ml Deep Red

i can order some more mayhems if need be, but i just can't think of what to use.... i have those stated conc's and the dye, aswell as a few kill coil's and some distilled if i go that route....

here's some pics of my build so far with the tubing i just finished...






Any ideas are greatly appreciated! thanks guys!

PS. The sleeving will be Gold (Vanilla sands no.17) and Black aswell


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> really need some help guys. Need to figure out which dye/coolant color i should use... if i should use any color at all. or if i should just use clear/uv or mayhems pure h2o. or what.
> 
> i just finished my tubing for this last build, and seriously have no idea what to make it !!!
> 
> As for personal supply of coolant... i have mayhems in the following....
> 
> 2 250ml Pastel Ice White Conc.
> 1 250ml Blood Red X1 Conc.
> 1 250ml Pastel Black Conc.
> 1 250ml X1 UV Red
> 1 250ml Aurora Tharsis Red
> 1 15ml Deep Red
> 
> i can order some more mayhems if need be, but i just can't think of what to use.... i have those stated conc's and the dye, aswell as a few kill coil's and some distilled if i go that route....
> 
> here's some pics of my build so far with the tubing i just finished...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas are greatly appreciated! thanks guys!
> 
> PS. The sleeving will be Gold (Vanilla sands no.17) and Black aswell


In your list of concentrate, I saw the you have some X1 Blood Red. Gold, black and red is a good match.

You could also go with the Pastel Black you have but if you use it, you will lose the presence of those sweet Bitspower fittings.

I would not go white white here as it might steal the gold presence and it's not what you want here.

BTW awesome build you have here!!


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> In your list of concentrate, I saw the you have some X1 Blood Red. Gold, black and red is a good match.
> 
> You could also go with the Pastel Black you have but if you use it, you will lose the presence of those sweet Bitspower fittings.
> 
> I would not go white white here as it might steal the gold presence and it's not what you want here.
> 
> BTW awesome build you have here!!


Thank you!

I was thinking the same about the black dye taking away from the fittings...
And white away from the gold...
I was looking at hydra gold when I first started the build but didn't so too much research and thought it was one of the newer Aurora coolants lol, so need to figure out which one would be a good long term coolant

I could always order another color, but I can't think of which color would be most suitable for the build...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> I was thinking the same about the black dye taking away from the fittings...
> And white away from the gold...
> I was looking at hydra gold when I first started the build but didn't so too much research and thought it was one of the newer Aurora coolants lol, so need to figure out which one would be a good long term coolant
> 
> I could always order another color, but I can't think of which color would be most suitable for the build...


Another color that looks good with gold is blue...so maybe some X1 Blue


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> really need some help guys. Need to figure out which dye/coolant color i should use... if i should use any color at all. or if i should just use clear/uv or mayhems pure h2o. or what.
> 
> i just finished my tubing for this last build, and seriously have no idea what to make it !!!
> 
> As for personal supply of coolant... i have mayhems in the following....
> 
> 2 250ml Pastel Ice White Conc.
> 1 250ml Blood Red X1 Conc.
> 1 250ml Pastel Black Conc.
> 1 250ml X1 UV Red
> 1 250ml Aurora Tharsis Red
> 1 15ml Deep Red
> 
> i can order some more mayhems if need be, but i just can't think of what to use.... i have those stated conc's and the dye, aswell as a few kill coil's and some distilled if i go that route....
> 
> here's some pics of my build so far with the tubing i just finished...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas are greatly appreciated! thanks guys!
> 
> PS. The sleeving will be Gold (Vanilla sands no.17) and Black aswell


I'd actually go with the oil black. I think it'd look great withe the gold: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_1073&products_id=40739

Then go with the bitspower gold fittings:


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22419/ex-tub-2514/Bitspower_G_14_Enhanced_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_True_Brass_BP-TBEML.html?tl=g30c703s2056

I don't think red really fits. Pastel white would be ok, I suppose. I'd avoid gold fluid so it isn't a gold overdose, lol. Purple X1 would probably look good too, if you'd be ok with having a purple and gold build XD


----------



## Jeronbernal

XD maybe if I sell the rest of my fittings in the marketplace I'll switch to the true brass enhanced multi links, then go with black coolant. Not really trying to drop another $500 on fittings @[email protected] especially for a build that'll end up getting dismantled when x99 comes @[email protected]

Maybe a blue or purple would look pretty sleek, who knows... Maybe I'll try it XD


----------



## RX7-2nr

Keep the black fittings and use oil black coolant. Everything doesn't have to contrast.


----------



## ROGX

Sweet, just got my pastel red, where do i store it? i have it in my room, idk if that's ok.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROGX*
> 
> Sweet, just got my pastel red, where do i store it? i have it in my room, idk if that's ok.


When not in use it's recommend to be cool dark place. Your room is probably fine tho


----------



## hiarc

Am I correct in saying that the pre-mixed pastels are ready to be used immediately while the concentrates have to be mixed with distilled?

What do people typically buy, the pre-mix or concentrates?

I am thinking about picking up some pastel white but have no idea if there is any differences between the two (as it is my first time dealing with anything besides pure distilled







), aside from personal choice.


----------



## ROGX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> When not in use it's recommend to be cool dark place. Your room is probably fine tho


Thanks, another thing, im about to order my pump.
is this a actual pump or a top? im confused.
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-d5-vario-x-top-plexi-incl-pump.html
And is that a good pump, review wise, do you recommend it?


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROGX*
> 
> Thanks, another thing, im about to order my pump.
> is this a actual pump or a top? im confused.
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps/ek-d5-series-pump/ek-d5-vario-x-top-plexi-incl-pump.html
> And is that a good pump, review wise, do you recommend it?


It is both, the top and the pump included. The D5 in that setup is the same as any D5 vario that is usually recommended.


----------



## Mayhem

@akira749 i what to say some thing but i cannot .. when i get time ill post a pic for you.

Pastel Black is being re released if you have a certain rad you MUST use blitz before using pastel black no ifs or buts. we have looked at over 20 diffrent blacks now and nothing even comes close to the old pastel black so its going full retail again.

mick


----------



## ROGX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> It is both, the top and the pump included. The D5 in that setup is the same as any D5 vario that is usually recommended.


Nice, is it able to change speeds like the others? And if not can you link me too one?


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROGX*
> 
> Nice, is it able to change speeds like the others? And if not can you link me too one?


Since it is the same D5 vario as any other vario, it also has the 1-5 knob thing in the back so you can adjust speeds as you like. If you look at the page itself, it tells you the RPM it runs at for each step:

"Adjustable speed in five steps:
Step 1: 1800 rpm
Step 2: 2550 rpm
Step 3: 3300 rpm
Step 4: 4050 rpm
Step 5: 4800 rpm"


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @akira749 i what to say some thing but i cannot .. when i get time ill post a pic for you.
> 
> Pastel Black is being re released if you have a certain rad you MUST use blitz before using pastel black no ifs or buts. we have looked at over 20 diffrent blacks now and nothing even comes close to the old pastel black so its going full retail again.
> 
> mick


No problems Mick


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Am I correct in saying that the pre-mixed pastels are ready to be used immediately while the concentrates have to be mixed with distilled?
> 
> What do people typically buy, the pre-mix or concentrates?
> 
> I am thinking about picking up some pastel white but have no idea if there is any differences between the two (as it is my first time dealing with anything besides pure distilled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), aside from personal choice.


Premixes need to be shaken up prior to filling, but other than that they are just fill and run. Buy whatever is near you, for the longest time only concentrates were available in North America because it's cheaper to ship 250ml than it is to ship 2000ml per product. Mick brought premixes to the U.S. rather recently so it looks like he's trying to steer away from concentrates all together, but that's just speculation.


----------



## Mayhem

Nope concentrates stay we are keeping both market places concentrates and Premix. PPC are testing the waters with premix and were seeing how it goes. It topok two years to get them over to the USA haha.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Nope concentrates stay we are keeping both market places concentrates and Premix. PPC are testing the waters with premix and were seeing how it goes. It topok two years to get them over to the USA haha.


Good to hear, I like my X1 concentrates: Cheap, low shipping cost, easy to use, etc.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Nope concentrates stay we are keeping both market places concentrates and Premix. PPC are testing the waters with premix and were seeing how it goes. It topok two years to get them over to the USA haha.


Lol 2 years???? That's insane
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Good to hear, I like my X1 concentrates: Cheap, low shipping cost, easy to use, etc.


I am a fan of the concentrates as well. Really just like that the bottles take minimum space (I live in a condo, space is at a premium lol) until they are needed. Also yeah, helps keep shipping prices down


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Lol 2 years???? That's insane
> I am a fan of the concentrates as well. Really just like that the bottles take minimum space (I live in a condo, space is at a premium lol) until they are needed. Also yeah, helps keep shipping prices down


Plus just shipping it to the store hikes the price up. I can get two liters of coolant with a $12 bottle of concentrate or one liter of premix for the same price. Gotta love those numbers. I can see premixes being nice for pastel or aurora as mixing those improperly could be problematic to say the least, but I'll stick with my good ol' x1


----------



## ROGX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Since it is the same D5 vario as any other vario, it also has the 1-5 knob thing in the back so you can adjust speeds as you like. If you look at the page itself, it tells you the RPM it runs at for each step:
> 
> "Adjustable speed in five steps:
> Step 1: 1800 rpm
> Step 2: 2550 rpm
> Step 3: 3300 rpm
> Step 4: 4050 rpm
> Step 5: 4800 rpm"


Thanks for the help!


----------



## GringoKillah1

Guys, i need help









I have 1,5 L. of Mayhems X1 Blue in my loop, but i want to paint it in werry Dark Blue(almost black), i have 1 bottle of Mayhems Dark Blue Dye, if i use all bottle of dye it will not paint everything in my loop (res, water blocks)?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Guys, i need help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 1,5 L. of Mayhems X1 Blue in my loop, but i want to paint it in werry Dark Blue(almost black), i have 1 bottle of Mayhems Dark Blue Dye, if i use all bottle of dye it will not paint everything in my loop (res, water blocks)?


You will definitely darken it but I don't think you will reach the "almost black" you want.

You might even need some other color dye (Purple andor Deep Red)

But i'm not 100% sure.

Here's some example I just made and pictured with my cell so sorry for the picture quality









Here's water with 6 drops of normal blue to start with.


Here I added 2 drops of Purple....as you can see on the bottom the reflection still gives me a hint of blue.


Finally I added 2 drops of Deep Red and the blue shades in the bottom are now almost gone.


One thing you can't notice on this crappy picture is that when you put direct light on the water now, it's more red than blue.

I was not reaching to give you a recipe but only the idea that you might have to go with another colored dye.

Maybe the combination of your Dark Blue Dye + some Purple Dye could darken it and still stay in the "blue" part of the chromatic circle.


----------



## GringoKillah1

*akira749*

Thx man, REP+








i will try use all of bottle and see the result








And what you can say about that question? -
Quote:


> if i use all bottle of dye it will not paint everything in my loop (res, water blocks)?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> *akira749*
> 
> Thx man, REP+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i will try use all of bottle and see the result
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what you can say about that question? -


No problems









For your question about the "paint" or "staining" of your components, one thing you must realize is that the X1 Blue you currently have is basically X1 Clear with Blue dye in it









So adding more blue won't more damage than what your X1 Blue would did. Which should not be that much....

Pink stains but with blue you should be ok


----------



## ZytheEKS

Getting black is really difficult. The problem is that to have a black coolant the coolant must absorb all the light of the spectrum, which means red blue and yellow dyes, this is also the colors you need to make a brown coolant which is typically what you get. Mixing red w/ green is the most common way, mixing blue with orange will get you a brownish color, mixing yellow with purple also works but it's really hard to get a true black with dyes. If you want true black I'd go with pastel black, there's still quite a bit of it on the market and Mayhems has put it back intro production so yeah.


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Premixes need to be shaken up prior to filling, but other than that they are just fill and run. Buy whatever is near you, for the longest time only concentrates were available in North America because it's cheaper to ship 250ml than it is to ship 2000ml per product. Mick brought premixes to the U.S. rather recently so it looks like he's trying to steer away from concentrates all together, but that's just speculation.


Thanks!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Getting black is really difficult. The problem is that to have a black coolant the coolant must absorb all the light of the spectrum, which means red blue and yellow dyes, this is also the colors you need to make a brown coolant which is typically what you get. Mixing red w/ green is the most common way, mixing blue with orange will get you a brownish color, mixing yellow with purple also works but it's really hard to get a true black with dyes. If you want true black I'd go with pastel black, there's still quite a bit of it on the market and Mayhems has put it back intro production so yeah.


All of this ^

Also want to add a lot of the fluids that are 'black' end up being really dark purples and if you get light shining on them, they looks purple. Mayhems oil black and pastel black do better at accomplishing the black color than any others I have seen. if you are truly after black, I'd just buy one of the black fluids and call it a day


----------



## GringoKillah1

*ZytheEKS
cyphon*

Honestly, i saw black coolant, but i dont want black
I need dark blue








slightly darker than *lowfat* have here


----------



## Mayhem

Dont be normal be different ...


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont be normal be different ...


Gray gives something different...more industrial....i like it!


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont be normal be different ...


Noctua Redux theme!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Noctua Redux theme!


think you are on to something, that'd be a pretty sweet build


----------



## VSG

A decent video on coolant colors using Mayhems products if you don't mind the diluted Pastel he starts off with


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> A decent video on coolant colors using Mayhems products if you don't mind the diluted Pastel he starts off with


Saw that last night and i mind lol, my God it was bothering me that he just pours a little pastel in there and starts adding dye. Maybe i'm just easily annoyed but i think i cut it off









Question. I'm looking at my backup rig right now because it wont take much work to expand the Glacer 240L i have to a 7970 block, reservoir, and another rad. As far as cleaning the 240L would i just do a bicarb flush to neutralize the compound/chemical that's already in there?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Saw that last night and i mind lol, my God it was bothering me that he just pours a little pastel in there and starts adding dye. Maybe i'm just easily annoyed but i think i cut it off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question. I'm looking at my backup rig right now because it wont take much work to expand the Glacer 240L i have to a 7970 block, reservoir, and another rad. As far as cleaning the 240L would i just do a bicarb flush to neutralize the compound/chemical that's already in there?


Sad thing, is that I commented on that video about that. But Elric is so unimaginably full of himself that he refuses to answer my comment, and instead answer everyone else's inane comments.


----------



## MrBlunt

can i get this effect with mayhems?
i have bright UV led's.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> can i get this effect with mayhems?
> i have bright UV led's.


Absolutely. UV Laser green dye


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A decent video on coolant colors using Mayhems products if you don't mind the diluted Pastel he starts off with


Rofl. 3:44

"...and now were going to go with what they call...............blue."


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*
> 
> Rofl. 3:44
> 
> "...and now were going to go with what they call...............blue."


Did anyone else notice that he said this is called "15 m l red"...lol i know he probably didn't mean to but it seems like he is saying 15ml is part of the name when it's just the volume of liquid


----------



## RX7-2nr

He says that a few times then figures out the mystery. "Oh I guess the 15ml is just how much is in here"


----------



## luciddreamer124

X-1 clear with deep red, some purple and blue dye,


----------



## MrBlunt

Gorgeous!!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> X-1 clear with deep red, some purple and blue dye,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome Lucid!!!

That last shot with the gpu block is beautiful!


----------



## z0ki

So i have 3 Alphacool Rads in my 900D build, just running DI and Liquid Utopia right now all nickel EK blocks and well full copper alphacool rads. And my rig needs some colour!

Now, i understand that alphacool rads will need to go through the lemon & bicarb process. Is this all i need to do a few times to make sure i won't get any issues using mayhems colours? I was going to go pastel blue but thinking maybe i'll use dye's instead.

Thoughts?


----------



## Mayhem

Blue will be fine red and purple and black id avoid unless your willing to use blitz on your system.


----------



## Blackops_2

If moving from a coolant like hydrX to pastel in my h220/240l would I just use a bicarb flush? Or the foam solution of part 2?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Biggen

Working on a new build and am wanting to use a Pastel. Any particular radiators I need to purchase (or avoid) so that I don't have discoloring issues? Was planning on a XSPC rad.

On my last build (been about 3 years) I think I just did a distilled flush and shook the hell out of the new rad before I put it in the system. Is this still the SOP? I am seeing vinegar, baking soda, and then Blitz being used today so I am a little confused.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> If moving from a coolant like hydrX to pastel in my h220/240l would I just use a bicarb flush? Or the foam solution of part 2?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What radiators are you using specifically?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggen*
> 
> Working on a new build and am wanting to use a Pastel. Any particular radiators I need to purchase (or avoid) so that I don't have discoloring issues? Was planning on a XSPC rad.
> 
> On my last build (been about 3 years) I think I just did a distilled flush and shook the hell out of the new rad before I put it in the system. Is this still the SOP? I am seeing vinegar, baking soda, and then Blitz being used today so I am a little confused.


Generally when people use Pastel they use a solvent to removed surface flux in the radiator. I prefer lemon juice over vinegar personally. Basically you run a solvent through your rads (only the rads) for 2 hours or so, then flush with a bicarbonate to neutralize anything still in the rad. This prevents surface flux from wacking out Pastel and discoloring it. Mayhems Blitz kit is a rather strong solvent that strips any surface flux and other contaminants in the rad(part 1), and an alkaline surfactant which suspends anything in the rad and neutralizes anything that may wack out the pH of the fluid. With X1 or XT-1 I would just say flush with distilled and fill. With pastel I'd say do a proper radiator cleaning, with either a lemon juice : water 1:4 and a bicarb (1-2Tbs of baking soda to 1 liter of warm water), or run Mayhems Blitz through it, Pastel is prone to discoloring if there's flux in the radiator, or other contaminants.


----------



## Biggen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> What radiators are you using specifically?
> Generally when people use Pastel they use a solvent to removed surface flux in the radiator. I prefer lemon juice over vinegar personally. Basically you run a solvent through your rads (only the rads) for 2 hours or so, then flush with a bicarbonate to neutralize anything still in the rad. This prevents surface flux from wacking out Pastel and discoloring it. Mayhems Blitz kit is a rather strong solvent that strips any surface flux and other contaminants in the rad(part 1), and an alkaline surfactant which suspends anything in the rad and neutralizes anything that may wack out the pH of the fluid. With X1 or XT-1 I would just say flush with distilled and fill. With pastel I'd say do a proper radiator cleaning, with either a lemon juice : water 1:4 and a bicarb (1-2Tbs of baking soda to 1 liter of warm water), or run Mayhems Blitz through it, Pastel is prone to discoloring if there's flux in the radiator, or other contaminants.


Thanks for that! Just to clarify, I need to run both lemon juice/water AND bicarb at the same time? Also, you say "only the rads". Does this mean I shouldn't run it through my pump/res? I'm just curious how I am supposed to run fluid through a 360mm rad without the use of a pump?

Thanks again for your help. Just want to make sure I have my ducks in a row.


----------



## gdubc

Do the lemon juice flush first the the bicarbonate flush to neutralize the acid from the lemon flush. He means only rads not blocks. Using pump is okay or rig up a 5 gal. bucket/pond pump setup from lowes


----------



## Biggen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Do the lemon juice flush first the the bicarbonate flush to neutralize the acid from the lemon flush. He means only rads not blocks. Using pump is okay or rig up a 5 gal. bucket/pond pump setup from lowes


Great! I'll probably just use my pump/res as I already have it. Probably wouldn't hurt to flush that out a bit as well.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> If moving from a coolant like hydrX to pastel in my h220/240l would I just use a bicarb flush? Or the foam solution of part 2?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> What radiators are you using specifically?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Biggen*
> 
> Working on a new build and am wanting to use a Pastel. Any particular radiators I need to purchase (or avoid) so that I don't have discoloring issues? Was planning on a XSPC rad.
> 
> On my last build (been about 3 years) I think I just did a distilled flush and shook the hell out of the new rad before I put it in the system. Is this still the SOP? I am seeing vinegar, baking soda, and then Blitz being used today so I am a little confused.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Generally when people use Pastel they use a solvent to removed surface flux in the radiator. I prefer lemon juice over vinegar personally. Basically you run a solvent through your rads (only the rads) for 2 hours or so, then flush with a bicarbonate to neutralize anything still in the rad. This prevents surface flux from wacking out Pastel and discoloring it. Mayhems Blitz kit is a rather strong solvent that strips any surface flux and other contaminants in the rad(part 1), and an alkaline surfactant which suspends anything in the rad and neutralizes anything that may wack out the pH of the fluid. With X1 or XT-1 I would just say flush with distilled and fill. With pastel I'd say do a proper radiator cleaning, with either a lemon juice : water 1:4 and a bicarb (1-2Tbs of baking soda to 1 liter of warm water), or run Mayhems Blitz through it, Pastel is prone to discoloring if there's flux in the radiator, or other contaminants.
Click to expand...

I have a mayhem blitz kit but it's for my main rig. This is for my backup rig expanding my glacer 240l to go on my 8320 and 7970 and adding a swiftech mcr 320qe to it

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggen*
> 
> Great! I'll probably just use my pump/res as I already have it. Probably wouldn't hurt to flush that out a bit as well.


I wouldn't use water cooling pump. After running lemon juice through my Alphacool XT45, I had nickel plating removed from few of the stop plugs I used. IDK what it can do to the pump.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> I wouldn't use water cooling pump. After running lemon juice through my Alphacool XT45, I had nickel plating removed from few of the stop plugs I used. IDK what it can do to the pump.


It /shouldn't/ do anything to the pump. Solvents can strip plating from blocks because most plating is VERY thin and VERY porous. A pump is an iron ball with some magnets in it, with an impeller on top. It /shouldn't/ do anything to impeller, I would be shocked if it did.


----------



## DeXel

Well, then it will strip plating of the fittings anyway because he has to connect a pump to the radiator in some way.

Unless he has full copper/brass fittings.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> Well, then it will strip plating of the fittings anyway because he has to connect a pump to the radiator in some way.
> 
> Unless he has full copper/brass fittings.


Or painted fittings


----------



## z0ki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Do the lemon juice flush first the the bicarbonate flush to neutralize the acid from the lemon flush. He means only rads not blocks. Using pump is okay or rig up a 5 gal. bucket/pond pump setup from lowes


What if it's like my system and it's full acrylic tubing, but I have 3 alphacool rads can i run the lemon and then bicarb through the blocks then finalize it with DI water without taking my rig apart?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> What if it's like my system and it's full acrylic tubing, but I have 3 alphacool rads can i run the lemon and then bicarb through the blocks then finalize it with DI water without taking my rig apart?


Being that they are the notoriously dirty alphacool rads, I would disassemble and use blitz kit honestly. Too many cases of color changing even after extensive cleaning. This is a good example & I trust Jack to be very meticulous in his rad cleaning:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Been away a while so sorry for the old response .... yes....it is a bit pink..... My sons kept asking me if I was cooling my box with "strawberry slushies" from 7-elevem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd strongly suggest waiting till the rad cleaner kit is available..... I thoroughly cleaned and pre-treated my rads going quite a bit beyond the "accepted procedures"..... put red pastel in at end of October and added 2 bottles of red dye a month later to get closer to "RoG / Mushkin" Red .... noticed no change in coloring for about 4 months. At that point I did some stress testing with AVX at low fan speeds which took my temps up from the normal 74C to about 84C. Dunno if that triggered anything (Coolant temps were in mid 30s) but my coolant color changed almost overnight.....at first I thot it was my old eyes but son came home a week later and confirmed.
> 
> Again, I pretreated my rads with both acidic and base solutions, flushed them with tap water for hours, final flushes w/ DW, ran a week on DW before putting in pastel mix. Four months of no chage and then within a week .... :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm letting it sit until FCPU has the new rad prep kits.... until then I will wrestle with the decision of whether to refill with pastel or the new aurora.
> Oops ..... Best to do a tap water flush in between the acidic and base soakings to skip the science project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... I did hot water baths, hi flow alternating hot and cold (HFAHC) tap water flushes, acidic bath, HFAHC tap water flushes, base bath, HFAHC tap water flushes, 2 DW flushes, a week on DW before coolant
> Been using anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments for over 25 years where it holds up better than stainless steel in many instances. As a owner of the M6F MoBo, I have absolutely no corrosion concerns about the water block..... the solder used in the rads is of much greater concern to me than the anodized block.
> 
> As for heat transfer....aluminum is about half as good as copper and twice as good as nickel
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html
> 
> Copper 401
> Aluminum 205
> Nickel 91
> 
> However the anodizing layer has about 1/10th the heat transfer capability as the bare metal. But the fact of the matter is it is entirely insignificant .... the block has to transfer about 20 watts and given the large surface area, that's waaaay more than enuff to handle the load. I have yet to see any MoBo / VRM temps above 41C.
> I ran a week on DI .... was glad i did and also glad had a plexi top on the CPU Block..... found several paint flakes which had dislodged themselves from fitting or rad threads that wound up jammed up in the CPU Block.....a reverse flush took care of them. I reflushed twice with new DW and then added the Pastel.
> The purpose of the final flush in my eyes is to get out any contaminants out that may haveleached out with the aid of a working system at elevated temperatures. So yes, I would make every effort to get it all out..... that doesn't necessarily mean dry.... you can get it out by displacement. After a the normal acid / base flush, numerous flushes and a week on DI, I flushed with tap water for a good 15 minutes ...then about 6 liters of DW was flushed thru, saving the last 2 liters for the pastel mix.
> What kind of issues.... it's worry free once installed provided you do it right ..... two ways to go..... straight tubes at right angles with fittings or bent acrylic..... fittings is a greater cost investment, bent is a bigger time investment. See the acrylic tube thread for lots of tips and pics of both.
> Again, I'd wait for the rad flush / prep kit (Blitz) from Mayhems .... the acid / base baths and subsequent flushing proved inadequate in my case
> Given my experience as evidenced by the pics above, I'd say no.....still stumped by the no reaction for 4 months and then bam, literally over a day or 2 was all changed.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> What if it's like my system and it's full acrylic tubing, but I have 3 alphacool rads can i run the lemon and then bicarb through the blocks then finalize it with DI water without taking my rig apart?


I have two AC Rads .... did the acid / alkaline flushes ..... flushed with tap water for hours, flushed with DW ....ran with DW for a week and DW pH was 7.03 at end of week. System ran fine for 4 months and then after doing some hi temp testing color went to mud over next 2-3 days.

Based upon the above experience, I would use the blitz kit.

If you go the other route ....acid wash and neutralizing with alkaline solution be aware that "neutralizing the acid" with an alkaline solution is not the answer to leaving the rads at neutral pH.... both high and low pH corrode copper, ..... what do you then use to "neutralize" the alkaline solution ? You should thoroughly flush the system with water both after the acid solution and after the alkaline solution. 1) you don't want the reaction between acid and alkaline solutions and 2) you don't want to leave the rad interior either hi or low in pH..... a good long flush will eliminate that possibility.

Also .... one thing about DW ..... freshly made it's 7.0 pH or darn close to it..... leave it exposed to air and it drops to 5.6 or so due to the absorption of carbon dioxide which forms carbonic acid. This is one of the reasons I recommend against pure DW systems w/o a corrosion inhibitor. DW is corrosive all by itself.

http://www.okpure.com/article_005en.html
Quote:


> This does however make the distilled water more aggressive in the dissolving of light metals such as copper and is one of the reasons copper should not be used to store or plumb distilled water.


http://www.finishing.com/147/97.shtml
http://www.finishing.com/320/35.shtml
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=146011

http://nanofinishcorp.com/Industrial%20Products/CopperCorrosion.pdf
Quote:


> With few exceptions, the pH of freshly distilled water will test between 6.8 and 7.0 (neutral) on the pH scale. If distilled water sits in an open container (exposed to air in other words) it tends to absorb carbon dioxide from the air. This will result in a gradual lowering of the pH due to the formation of a weak carbonic acid. Through this process the pH can get as low as 5.5 on the pH scale. This is of little consequence [from a human consumption standpoint] since carbonic acid at this level is only slightly ionized and is therefore very weak. Thus, distilled water has a tendency to accelerate the corrosive attack on copper because of the carbonic acid or dissolved CO2 gas from the atmosphere. For example, sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3) was found to corrode copper pipes within 6 to 30 months


----------



## MrGrievous

Sorry if I missed it (been following this thread for a long while now and have read every post) but is the blitz kit needed on AC rads if you only want to use pastel coolant? Is it needed for the other coolants like x1?


----------



## ref

I'm going to be going with Deep Red dye, sucks about how it'll stain a bit, but hey, not a massive deal with proper maintenance!


----------



## kcuestag

@Mayhem Been using Pastel White for almost a year. Yesterday I drained the loop to clean everything (Specially dust and gunk in the cpu waterblock, I guess plasticizer), and accidentally I poured some more distilled water into the pastel coolant.

Will it be okay? It still smells pretty "pastel white" like day one, was wondering if I could add one drop of Mayhems Biocide Extreme, or just let it be?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> @Mayhem Been using Pastel White for almost a year. Yesterday I drained the loop to clean everything (Specially dust and gunk in the cpu waterblock, I guess plasticizer), and accidentally I poured some more distilled water into the pastel coolant.
> 
> Will it be okay? It still smells pretty "pastel white" like day one, was wondering if I could add one drop of Mayhems Biocide Extreme, or just let it be?


What kind of quantity do you think you poured in it?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> What kind of quantity do you think you poured in it?


Not sure, whatever my 420mm and 240mm rads can hold, mainly the monsta 240mm which is on the bottom.

Pretty sure the 420mm on top was almost empty, and Monsta close to half empty since I use one of the side ports for draining valve.


----------



## MrBlunt

finally got to try the UV green.. WOW!!!
Koolance

Mayhems


----------



## Blackops_2

I have some UV yellow/green i plan on adding to my mint pastel to achieve a more vibrant green, don't know if i'll be using UV lights, but that does look good Mr.Blunt

So for my backup rig i think i'm going to go with red dye and X1 or red dye and distilled. Mainly so i can save my Blitz kit for my rads going in Green Envy, which will be on pastel. Which would be more preferable X1 & Deep Red or Distilled & Deep Red? X1 already contains biocide and such doesn't it? Also is it pH sensitive like Pastel?


----------



## MrBlunt

read the first post of this thread.. its all of mayhem's different coolant details and instructions.


----------



## Blackops_2

Yeah i had about the X1 i remembered correctly it does use biocide, though i didn't see if it was pH sensitive or not. Though i don't think it is.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Sorry if I missed it (been following this thread for a long while now and have read every post) but is the blitz kit needed on AC rads if you only want to use pastel coolant? Is it needed for the other coolants like x1?


X1 is pretty lenient as far as radiator contaminants. I wouldn't worry about it if you're just using X1.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> @Mayhem Been using Pastel White for almost a year. Yesterday I drained the loop to clean everything (Specially dust and gunk in the cpu waterblock, I guess plasticizer), and accidentally I poured some more distilled water into the pastel coolant.
> 
> Will it be okay? It still smells pretty "pastel white" like day one, was wondering if I could add one drop of Mayhems Biocide Extreme, or just let it be?


Do NOT spike pastel with Copper Sulphate. That's a quick recipe for disaster. Slightly diluted pastel won't cause any major problems, it should be okay to use in a loop for up to two years.


----------



## MrBlunt

how long would you say running a loop of x1 till an AC rad would be clean enough to run pastel? or would the rad always have stuff in it? i'm inclined to think that after a few changes it would be free of contaminants.. but thats just my guess.. Any thoughts?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> X1 is pretty lenient as far as radiator contaminants. I wouldn't worry about it if you're just using X1.
> Do NOT spike pastel with Copper Sulphate. That's a quick recipe for disaster. Slightly diluted pastel won't cause any major problems, it should be okay to use in a loop for up to two years.


Good thing I asked first.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Good thing I asked first.


Pastel is relatively sensitive to pH imbalances. CuSo4 makes water drastically lower it's pH. Obviously by the time you add one or two drops to a liter or more of water it's not going to lower the pH of the coolant as a whole by that much, but it's potent enough to cause issues with pastel.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Yeah i had about the X1 i remembered correctly it does use biocide, though i didn't see if it was pH sensitive or not. Though i don't think it is.


Yup Blackops the X1 has everything in it, It's pretty much a install & forget fluid as far as I'm concerned







... I've had it one of my machines for nigh on 4 years now & it's still showing crystal clear in the bay res... It's certainly my choice of fluid for all my set-ups & that includes for rad, block reviews e.t.c







..

Nam..


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Yup Blackops the X1 has everything in it, It's pretty much a install & forget fluid as far as I'm concerned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I've had it one of my machines for nigh on 4 years now & it's still showing crystal clear in the bay res... It's certainly my choice of fluid for all my set-ups & that includes for rad, block reviews e.t.c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> Nam..


Good deal







thanks. Makes life a lot easier because i'm using the Blitz kit for my sig rig. This way all i have to do for the backup is just a regular cleaning of the rads.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Good deal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks. Makes life a lot easier because i'm using the Blitz kit for my sig rig. This way all i have to do for the backup is just a regular cleaning of the rads.


After you hit them with a blits kit once I'd recommend not doing it again. The blits kit does an amazing job cleaning the rad spotless, but that's also the problem with using them multiple times. Using it once removes the surface flux, plus everything else within the rad. Using it a second time is counter productive, as there isn't any surface flux, and shouldn't be any other contaminants other than the natural copper patina which shields the rad from corrosion. This means using a second time just strips the natural copper patina that's protecting it from corrosion. After it's been blitzed once, normal flushing and maybe a bicarb flush or a blitz part 2 if you wanna be super thorough is just fine, after the surface flux has been removed all it needs is a simple flushing to keep it clean. Not sure what you meant by "just a regular cleaning of the rads" but just through I'd throw that







out there.


----------



## MrBlunt

i rinsed them when i first got them, but i've heard it needs more care. i never used the blitz kit. i was wondering more, if over general use, the rad would be safe for pastel eventually. say after a few months of running.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> i rinsed them when i first got them, but i've heard it needs more care. i never used the blitz kit. i was wondering more, if over general use, the rad would be safe for pastel eventually. say after a few months of running.


What radiators specifically? Some companies do a really good job of cleaning them prior to shipping. Other companies, not so much.


----------



## MrBlunt

alphacool


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> alphacool


I'd definitely hit em with a blitz kit... The flux is them is water soluble, but I've seen people run those rads for months, then switch to pastel and the flux still causes problems.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> After you hit them with a blits kit once I'd recommend not doing it again. The blits kit does an amazing job cleaning the rad spotless, but that's also the problem with using them multiple times. Using it once removes the surface flux, plus everything else within the rad. Using it a second time is counter productive, as there isn't any surface flux, and shouldn't be any other contaminants other than the natural copper patina which shields the rad from corrosion. This means using a second time just strips the natural copper patina that's protecting it from corrosion. After it's been blitzed once, normal flushing and maybe a bicarb flush or a blitz part 2 if you wanna be super thorough is just fine, after the surface flux has been removed all it needs is a simple flushing to keep it clean. Not sure what you meant by "just a regular cleaning of the rads" but just through I'd throw that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> out there.


Thanks for the advice. I have two rigs i'm putting on water. Green Envy which is my main rig and has the build log. I will be using Pastel green in it, which is why i would rather save the blitz kit i got for the rads going in the main rig. The second rig, my AMD rig below, is going to be put on water as well and i already have the rads i need for it, i'll just be putting it in a new case. What i mean by regular cleaning was just flushing them with distilled and giving them a good shake to get the gunk out. Since i'm using X1 in the AMD rig i wont have to use the blitz kit on those rads, or go lemon juice, then bicarb. Or this was my line of thinking anyway.


----------



## Mayhem

X1, XT1, Pastel, Aurora = do not use silver, do not use copper sulfate, do not use anything except water if its the concentrate version. .... simples


----------



## VSG

Mick, any chance you saw my PM about flowing Blitz through rads in a loop? Thanks!


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Good deal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks. Makes life a lot easier because i'm using the Blitz kit for my sig rig. This way all i have to do for the backup is just a regular cleaning of the rads.


You only need to use the Part 1 of the kit for cleaning the Rads just the ONCE!!... It would be counter productive in my view to use part 1 more than once in a single Rad...... I'm just finishing a review for the Blitz kit & will be posting it up before this weeks end !!..









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> After you hit them with a blits kit once I'd recommend not doing it again. The blits kit *does an amazing job cleaning the rad spotless*, but that's also the problem with using them multiple times. Using it once removes the surface flux, plus everything else within the rad. *Using it a second time is counter productive*, as there isn't any surface flux, and shouldn't be any other contaminants other than the natural copper patina which shields the rad from corrosion. This means using a second time just strips the natural copper patina that's protecting it from corrosion. After it's been blitzed once, normal flushing and maybe a bicarb flush or a blitz part 2 if you wanna be super thorough is just fine, after the surface flux has been removed all it needs is a simple flushing to keep it clean. Not sure what you meant by "just a regular cleaning of the rads" but just through I'd throw that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> out there.


All of this ^ ^







..... I'm Just in the process of finishing a review as we speak on the Blitz kit & ZytheEKS is spot on as regards part 1 does a great job on cleaning the Rads







...... Part 2 is for cleaning the whole completed loop & also does a damn fine job.......... But more on the part 2 when I post my review







....

Nam


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> X1, XT1, Pastel, Aurora = do not use silver, do not use copper sulfate, do not use anything except water if its the concentrate version. .... simples


So the Monsoon fittings with the silver coating are a no no for pastel and event xt/xt1?


----------



## Jeronbernal

Coolant or dye ideas?


----------



## Blackops_2

Black pastel or grey? Whats in the Res?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> You only need to use the Part 1 of the kit for cleaning the Rads just the ONCE!!... It would be counter productive in my view to use part 1 more than once in a single Rad...... I'm just finishing a review for the Blitz kit & will be posting it up before this weeks end !!..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nam


Yeah i got it







i just didn't want to have to use the blitz kit on my set of radiators for my backup rig. Wanted to be sure i had enough of part 1 for my rads for my main build. Which is why the AMD rig will get X1 Blood Red and the rads will just get a regular distilled shake, maybe with some hot distilled, just to get the gunk out, but that's about it.

Looking forward to the review.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Black pastel or grey? Whats in the Res?
> Yeah i got it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i just didn't want to have to use the blitz kit on my set of radiators for my backup rig. Wanted to be sure i had enough of part 1 for my rads for my main build. Which is why the AMD rig will get X1 Blood Red and the rads will just get a regular distilled shake, maybe with some hot distilled, just to get the gunk out, but that's about it.
> 
> Looking forward to the review.


 I forgot about Grey, was there a place that sells premixed Grey mayhems? Or I think I remember a mixing guide, it was one of the two, thAnks

The res just has humidity in it from me cleaning it out with distilled

I checked the mayhems site for the guide but it seems like the mayhems site is having issues loading anything except for the borders

Anyone know where I can get mayhems Aurora 2 silver in the US? I can't seem to find any


----------



## Blackops_2

Lol i thought there was some kind of silver aurora looking fluid in the res, looking closer i can see it's just humidity as you said.

I'm not sure where to find Silver Aurora i'm sure Mick will know. Might have to be a special order, i haven't seen anyone use silver other than Mick demonstrating it if memory serves correctly.


----------



## Mayhem

Im realy sorry at this moment in time i do not have the time to make one off coolants like that as weve got way to much on atm.

@geggeg I think i respodned


----------



## VSG

Yes sir, you did


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well picked up some clear primochill tubing and plan to flush my Black Ice GT XFlow and add it to my loop and use the Clear UV Blue Dye as long as my PH's are balanced


----------



## Elements

Hello All,
Would someone mind telling me the advantages/disadvantages/differences between X1 and pastel?


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elements*
> 
> Hello All,
> Would someone mind telling me the advantages/disadvantages/differences between X1 and pastel?


I guess just looks and a little tinny higher temperature with Pastel.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elements*
> 
> Hello All,
> Would someone mind telling me the advantages/disadvantages/differences between X1 and pastel?


X1 is cheaper, has stronger corrosion inhibitors, and better thermals. Pastel is more expensive, arguably looks better, weaker corrosion inhibitors, slightly worse thermals, more sensitive to pH change, but also lasts longer before it needs to be drained.


----------



## Elements

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> X1 is cheaper, has stronger corrosion inhibitors, and better thermals. Pastel is more expensive, arguably looks better, weaker corrosion inhibitors, slightly worse thermals, more sensitive to pH change, but also lasts longer before it needs to be drained.


Alright; would the difference between the strength of inhibitors matter if my loop is just nickel, copper, and BP fittings and I flushed my loop every 10-12 months?
EDIT: How big would the temperature difference be?


----------



## Blackops_2

Well I busted a whole bottle of UV yellow/green lol. Somehow the cap got stopped up or something and tried to clear it with the point end of a fork.







stuff happens I guess.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MrBlunt

that sounds like pretty much everybody's loop. Inhibitors just protect against growth and corrosion. IMO they are must haves, and are usually included in most coolants, dye's however usually dont contain them.


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Well I busted a whole bottle of UV yellow/green lol. Somehow the cap got stopped up or something and tried to clear it with the point end of a fork.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stuff happens I guess.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


can we get uv evidence of the spill lol


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elements*
> 
> Alright; would the difference between the strength of inhibitors matter if my loop is just nickel, copper, and BP fittings and I flushed my loop every 10-12 months?
> EDIT: How big would the temperature difference be?


Either would work. You really only need to worry about stronger corrosion inhibitors if you're going to mix dissimilar metals. Those metals have similar enough electrode potentials that it shouldn't be an issue. You can expect Pastel to be 1-2celcius hotter coolant temps on your typical loop, do note that it's higher coolant temps and not higher component temps. That's an important distinction to make.


----------



## dave584

Hello
I have a question. On your website you say
"Do not use Mayhems Pastel with Tygon tubing
as Mayhems Pastel seems to react with it changing the colour of the tubing to a greenish colour"

Is that true because this is my problem. I have my system tubed with tygon and use Mayhems Pastel Orange.
And after 2 hours it getting darker.

Mayhems_Pastel_Orange_01.jpg 282k .jpg file


Do i need to worry ?

THX
Greetings


----------



## DarthBaggins

Only tubing Mayhems recommends (LRT/ Vynal) is PrimoChill Advanced LRT Tubing


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dave584*
> 
> Hello
> I have a question. On your website you say
> "Do not use Mayhems Pastel with Tygon tubing
> as Mayhems Pastel seems to react with it changing the colour of the tubing to a greenish colour"
> 
> Is that true because this is my problem. I have my system tubed with tygon and use Mayhems Pastel Orange.
> And after 2 hours it getting darker.
> 
> Mayhems_Pastel_Orange_01.jpg 282k .jpg file
> 
> 
> Do i need to worry ?
> 
> THX
> Greetings


I see that you're using Alphacool radiators.....did you flush/clean them thoroughly prior you connect them in your loop?


----------



## MrBlunt

thisis exactly why i skipped pastel.


----------



## gdubc

So do you all think I should strip the silver off the Monsoon fittings, as I plan on using pastel in one rig and aurora in another? I wasn't as concerned over the mixed metals aspect before because I was trusting the inhibitors to do their job right, but should I actually be more concerned with the coolant "breaking"?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> So do you all think I should strip the silver off the Monsoon fittings, as I plan on using pastel in one rig and aurora in another? I wasn't as concerned over the mixed metals aspect before because I was trusting the inhibitors to do their job right, but should I actually be more concerned with the coolant "breaking"?


I wouldn't worry about it, I think mick said don't use silver mainly because it's just another metal and servers no purpose in your loop. It's just another mixed metal. On a side note I would try to keep those out of direct contact with nickle, nickle and silver in direct electrical contact may form a galvanic cell.


----------



## Mayhem

The inhibitors in all the coolants we produce work perfect. How ever we say if using any premix you do not need silver and advise users not to add it to a system if using a premix.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The inhibitors in all the coolants we produce work perfect. How ever we say if using any premix you do not need silver and advise users not to add it to a system if using a premix.


The problem is the new(ish) Monsoon Rigid Acrylic Chain Gun Compression fittings are silver plated.


----------



## kpoeticg

All Monsoon fittings are silver plated now. He doesn't make any more brass barbs


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> All Monsoon fittings are silver plated now. He doesn't make any more brass barbs


Yeah, don't forget that tirade Geno went on about Mick trying to cover his rear. Pretty much war between the two companies right now. I know I'm definitely not putting Monsoon fittings anymore in my build. Luckily I managed to get the non-silver barb ones.


----------



## gdubc

The difference (on "the chart") between the nickel/silver and the nickel/copper is so small I think I will just go with it. I mostly need to just worry about getting it all clean enough so my colors stay good then.


----------



## kpoeticg

I didn't even know anything about the badmouthing. I was planning on getting the Monsoon Hardline's in my rig for months while i was planning it. Then they announced em only silver plated so i went with c47's. Then i ordered another 6Pack of soft fittings for my temporary loop and they were silver plated. Now i use BP for everything. Nothing against Geno or Monsoon, i just think it was a terrible business decision. All Premixes warn not to add biocides or anti-corrosives, not just Mayhem (which is the most popular in the world)

Edit: I emailed geno when i received the silver plated soft-fittings cuz i wanted to know if it was a packing mistake. He emailed me back within a half hour, so good support. Just a bad decision to take the choice away from us


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> thisis exactly why i skipped pastel.


That's not pastel in your rig? I thought it was lol is it just X1 UV green?


----------



## MrBlunt

yup just X1 UV Green


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Yeah, don't forget that tirade Geno went on about Mick trying to cover his rear. Pretty much war between the two companies right now. I know I'm definitely not putting Monsoon fittings anymore in my build. Luckily I managed to get the non-silver barb ones.


Wait, what happened now?


----------



## dave584

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I see that you're using Alphacool radiators.....did you flush/clean them thoroughly prior you connect them in your loop?


Yes i flushed the radiators several times.
First with some Chemicals, cillit bang green and red.
http://www.cillitbang.co.uk/

After this with distilled water 5 times.
Greetings


----------



## Mayhem

Please don't assume. we just say silver is not needed. please don't put words in our "post's" that don't exist. And i didn't know there was any bad blood between us and them lol we make fluids they make what ever they make and neither of us have crossed paths as far as im aware. I wont comment on what another companies say esp if it has nothing to do with us (which it doesn't).

Infact we just double checked the rigs and one of them have monsoon fittings (not the silver ones). Ive contacted "boxgods" on another forum and asked can we get some sample fittings from them so we can check them with all our fluids.


----------



## gdubc




----------



## kpoeticg

Looking forward to you doing some testing on that front. I always assumed "don't add biocides" included silver. Plus i try not to mix metals aside from copper & brass anyway.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Forgot to ask, but have there been negative effects with using Mayhems with Black Ice GT and swiftech rads?


----------



## Mayhem

Not that we are aware off how ever we still say flush your rads correctly


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yup, plan to reclusive the swiftech and the black ice gt x flow since the black ice I think the previous owner did but still plan to flush with my kitty litter flusher ( home made setup) other then the swiftech has had no issues since I'm already running distilled with a coil and I've seen no growth or had any flow issues so far, but I want to remove a 120 I have in the loop and replace it with a secondary 240 and this is a perfect time to change from my white lrt to clear. Also I use the primo system on the components before heir initial install (flushed on the flush/pump setup for 8 hours with distilled and sysprep).


----------



## darwing

I dont think I posted these of my last customer build







this was my first time using Mayhems and loved it


----------



## Mayhem

Due to circumstance beyond our control www.mayhems.co.uk web site (in its entirety inc emails) will be down a few hours ...


----------



## PuffinMyLye

I used Mayhems dye in my last build and my blocks got stained from it. Is this normal? And if so, are there any dyes/coolants that don't stain? I'm going to have sleeved tubing but I'd like to have blue coolant running through my res and GPU block as those will be on display.

P.S. My last build used strictly copper blocks. This new build I'll be using nickel plated blocks however I believe even the nickel plated CPU block is still copper on the inside (EK Supremacy?).


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> I used Mayhems dye in my last build and my blocks got stained from it. Is this normal? And if so, are there any dyes/coolants that don't stain? I'm going to have sleeved tubing but I'd like to have blue coolant running through my res and GPU block as those will be on display.
> 
> P.S. My last build used strictly copper blocks. This new build I'll be using nickel plated blocks however I believe even the nickel plated CPU block is still copper on the inside (EK Supremacy?).


As stated on Mayhems site clear uv blue is the only dye that doesn't stain last I checked


----------



## Ovrclck

I just ordered 2 liters of X1 Clear, does anyone know if that would be enough to fill my loop? Should I pick up another liter just in case?
2x Alphcool Monsta 360
1x Alphacool Monsta 240
1x cpu,
2x vid cards
Mosfet block


----------



## MrBlunt

should be fine.. less than 2 litres to fill 2x 480's 1x 240, and 1x 120mm. you should be more then fine


----------



## PuffinMyLye

What is the advantage to using something like X1 over straight distilled water?


----------



## VSG

Anti-corrosion and anti-microbial additives, for one.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Anti-corrosion and anti-microbial additives, for one.


Ahh I see thanks. Might have to go with the clear myself as I don't want any staining of my blocks.


----------



## MrBlunt

i used koolance coolant for over a year, nothing is stained. it was dilluted with distilled.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> should be fine.. less than 2 litres to fill 2x 480's 1x 240, and 1x 120mm. you should be more then fine


Thanks! +Rep


----------



## Mayhem

One is 60mm High FPI (why .... because we can)
One is 60mm Normal FPI

These are Mayhems QPTTHF Rads, Complete 100% pure over kill, High performance, high flow rads.


----------



## Nightingale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> One is 60mm High FPI (why .... because we can)
> One is 60mm Normal FPI
> 
> These are Mayhems QPTTHF Rads, Complete 100% pure over kill, High performance, high flow rads.


I would assume naturally mick that your upcoming rads will be thoroughly cleaned internally and ready for pastel dye right from the get go?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> One is 60mm High FPI (why .... because we can)
> One is 60mm Normal FPI
> 
> These are Mayhems QPTTHF Rads, Complete 100% pure over kill, High performance, high flow rads.


Are they louvered or standard fins?


----------



## RpeeKooz

Has anyone used both pastel red and x1 uv red. Is it a close match for the brightness. I have red led strips.and want a bright red colour. My first pastel red attempt ended up being pink. So I'm gonna start with new stuff wondering if x1 uh red is close to the pastel red...
Cheers


----------



## Mayhem

There louvered, rads are sonic cleaned and as per any rad you should clean before use and if we do sell these after we've finished testing we will include part one of Mayhems Blitz kit as standard.


----------



## M3TAl

I'm not familiar with the term louvered. Is that like split fins? Such as the XSPC EX rads?


----------



## Mayhem

http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=ZsU5A1mANWUC&pg=PA164&lpg=PA164&dq=radiators+louvered+or+standard+fins&source=bl&ots=sa3BDEJXx6&sig=sAuFSBl7cnAS4R6K9hEzh5Xdf3c&hl=en&sa=X&ei=PyKtU6mFMsb_OdfbgYgH&ved=0CCAQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=radiators%20louvered%20or%20standard%20fins&f=false


----------



## Jeronbernal

Having a hard time loading the Grey mixing guide on my Phone

Could anyone tell me the ingredients?

Thanks greatly appreciated!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> There louvered, rads are sonic cleaned and as per any rad you should clean before use and if we do sell these after we've finished testing we will include part one of Mayhems Blitz kit as standard.


Sounds good. Any chance you can release the fin density on the high FPI model, or is that still on a need to know basis.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I'm not familiar with the term louvered. Is that like split fins? Such as the XSPC EX rads?


Standard fins are just a solid sheet of copper rewound on itself, as you'd expect. Louvered fans have a bunch of slits that increase surface area as well as air turbulence. Generally they perform better than their standard fin counter parts, but I can imagine it's a HUGE PITA to manufacture louvered fins.


----------



## kpoeticg

He does 11 drops of emerald green dye and then 1 drop of red. Then if you want it darker just continue putting another 11 drops emerald green then 1 drop red until you have the shade you want


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> He does 11 drops of emerald green dye and then 1 drop of red. Then if you want it darker just continue putting another 11 drops emerald green then 1 drop red until you have the shade you want


11 drops of emerald green and 1 drop of blood red? in pastel white im assuming? thank you


----------



## SavellM

Ok so I need some advice.

I drained out my loop last night.
As I'm going to change colour and also put in 2 new cards.

But I noticed that in my CPU block (the only block with a clear top) that there is a bit of buildup in there.
Like a thin layer of grime and oxidisation. Not much at all but its there.

I should have taken a pic but it was like 1am.

So now my question is...
I have the Blitz kit that I was going to run with the 2 new cards.
Shall I take the CPU apart and clean it with a toothbrush first, or just use the blitz kit and hope it removes all the grime.

Granted if this is in my cpu block, it will probably be in the rads too.

I wasn't going to use part 1 on the Rads.
I WAS going to use part 2 through the whole system.
Maybe even twice if it needs.

What are your thoughts especially @Mick


----------



## Mayhem

you can try it and see what happens. but any crap you will have in your rads will be lifted and will enter your whole loop.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> 11 drops of emerald green and 1 drop of blood red? in pastel white im assuming? thank you


Yeah in Pastel White. NP =)


----------



## SavellM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> you can try it and see what happens. but any crap you will have in your rads will be lifted and will enter your whole loop.


Ye thats my worry.

But then I cant exactly open up my rads.

I could use part 1 I suppose just to be safe.
But they are XSPC rads and look pretty clean.

So what would you do if you were me Mick?

And if there is something in the Rads, that gets lifted, how can I catch it to clean the loop?


----------



## SavellM

Next question...

If I take my cpu block apart, what shall I use to clean it with a tootbrush?

Just DI water?
Or lemon juice?

It is a EK Supremacy Nickel Plated.


----------



## Mayhem

Me personally run part 2, see how it goes, rinse a few times, check water if its all out then fill and get going







. Im an easy worry type of person .....

Just clean with tooth brush nothing more.


----------



## SavellM

Perfect!

Thanks Mick!


----------



## SavellM

Can I run part 2 twice?
Maybe 12 hours at a time?

Just to clean out any crap in the loop.

So run Part 2 for 12 hours.
Flush with DI Water.
Run Part 2 again for another 12 hours.
Flush twice, with DI water and use coolant.

Would this be ok?


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah in Pastel White. NP =)


thanks man !







+1

Anyone know if either this silver from PPCS is Aurora 2

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=267&products_id=40728

From what i gather, there are 3 colors on the mayhems site that are aurora 2, red, blue and silver.

i can't for the life of me figure out which is which on any american site. any help would be greatly appreciated in pointing me in the right way.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> Has anyone used both pastel red and x1 uv red. Is it a close match for the brightness. I have red led strips.and want a bright red colour. My first pastel red attempt ended up being pink. So I'm gonna start with new stuff wondering if x1 uh red is close to the pastel red...
> Cheers


I used pastel red in my first loop and it was more of a pink color as well. I added some deep red dye and a drop of deep blue to darken it up. Currently I am using X1 red and it is much more red than the pastel was. I would suggest buying a bottle of Mayhem's red dye to get it exactly where you want it. Hope this helps.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> thanks man !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> Anyone know if either this silver from PPCS is Aurora 2
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=267&products_id=40728
> 
> From what i gather, there are 3 colors on the mayhems site that are aurora 2, red, blue and silver.
> 
> i can't for the life of me figure out which is which on any american site. any help would be greatly appreciated in pointing me in the right way.


or this ?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_915&products_id=34074

any help with aurora 2 would be nice... i can't find a site in the US that has it labeled.

i'm sitting runnuing just DI water and i miss mayhems in my build @[email protected]


----------



## VSG

Another annoying video, about time I unsub from this channel I think. The worst part is how wrong he is about everything, such as telling people to run part 1 in a loop for hours. Come on Mick, is he the best guy you got?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another annoying video, about time I unsub from this channel I think. The worst part is how wrong he is about everything, such as telling people to run part 1 in a loop for hours. Come on Mick, is he the best guy you got?


Yeah, quite a dumb video, he doesn't even show how he uses, just reads the instructions and gets some views LOL.


----------



## Blackops_2

Yeah after his last video with Mayhems... i lost it lol


----------



## Mayhem

give him time guys hes doing oky. ive told him about the problem and there working on a full review / video this weekend.

It nice to see that hes taking on the challenge and its nice to see them enter the water cooling world. With every thing we should all nurture him into a good water cooling unbiased reviewer.

Send him advise and suggestions let him grow. you never know he may flourish







. The more people we can bring into water cooling the better it will be for everyone.


----------



## Jeronbernal

amen~

im guessing noone has any idea about aurora 2 in the US?


----------



## gdubc

I know they have it at my local microcenter. You are having trouble finding it?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> amen~
> 
> im guessing noone has any idea about aurora 2 in the US?


Aurora 2 is already out in north america. It's being slip streamed into current stocks, so they won't exactly list it any differently than normal aurora. Look for the premixed aurora, that'll be A2


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Aurora 2 is already out in north america. It's being slip streamed into current stocks, so they won't exactly list it any differently than normal aurora. Look for the premixed aurora, that'll be A2


On ppcs I've noticed that there are 10 premixed auroras, but on mayhems website there are only three red, white and blue , and from what I remember, mayhems said that hydra gold wasn't a2 and I believe he or someone else confirmed there are only 3. Yet they all say new -_-

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_381_1071_1073

On fcpu same dealio. 10 premixed auroras. Same 10.

Thanks ZytheEKS for assisting, I appreciate the help
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I know they have it at my local microcenter. You are having trouble finding it?


Mc is non existent in my area, Seattle, WA

I had a friend check one near his area and they were sold out of all mayhems


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> On ppcs I've noticed that there are 10 premixed auroras, but on mayhems website there are only three red, white and blue , and from what I remember, mayhems said that hydra gold wasn't a2 and I believe he or someone else confirmed there are only 3. Yet they all say new -_-
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_381_1071_1073
> 
> On fcpu same dealio. 10 premixed auroras. Same 10.
> 
> Thanks ZytheEKS for assisting, I appreciate the help
> Mc is non existent in my area, Seattle, WA
> 
> I had a friend check one near his area and they were sold out of all mayhems


Premixed old aurora? Odd, it was my understanding that mayhems was going to cease production of old aurora but maybe that's just leftover from the factory. Mick'll have to chime in on that issue. I do recall mick saying only supernova, red, and blue were new aurora. The only tell tale distinction I can think of would be the "new and improved formula" bubble that's on the bottle itself. I know for a fact only the new aurora has that emblem. The problem is pics posted on retail websites aren't always the most reliable means of knowing the product, we all know how often they photoshop or BS those kinda things.

I'd simply email FCPU, or PPCs, or whoever you plan on buying from and ask if the Aurora (insert one of three colors you want here) is the new improved formula or the old one. Other than that, PPCs NEVER takes those blasted "new" tags off their products, and FCPU has similar issues with labeling so you're down to pretty much one option, a good old fashion customer inquiry.









Hope that helps.


----------



## Jeronbernal

yep... very odd. welp~ to the good ol' customer inquiry tomorrow ~

thanks ZytheEKS+


----------



## Mayhem

Namrons review on Mayhems Blitz Pro Kit -> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4944-Mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-kit


----------



## Blackops_2

Good review. I wonder how much flux swiftech and Ek leave in their rads?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DarthBaggins

when I flushed my 120 & 240 swiftech rads they really weren't that bad other than I go the 240 used.


----------



## SavellM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Me personally run part 2, see how it goes, rinse a few times, check water if its all out then fill and get going
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Im an easy worry type of person .....
> 
> Just clean with tooth brush nothing more.


So I ran part 2 and it did nothing to my loop








Took it all apart and cleaned it with a toothbrush and now running it again.




Altho in the bottom of the CPU you can see flakes from the bitspower fittings.

I've taken it all out and given it the toothbrush.

But like I say I ran it for around 16 hours and that grime didnt change at all.

Just my feedback.


----------



## MrBlunt

So i have an idea for the next big coolant... If you wanna steal my idea fine.. just gimme a lil credit.. lol.. how about a coolant that changes colors based on temperature of hte fluid? say blue to red. Any thoughts? possible?


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> So I ran part 2 and it did nothing to my loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took it all apart and cleaned it with a toothbrush and now running it again.
> 
> Altho in the bottom of the CPU you can see flakes from the bitspower fittings.
> 
> I've taken it all out and given it the toothbrush.
> 
> But like I say I ran it for around 16 hours and that grime didnt change at all.
> 
> Just my feedback.


That stuff wont go away just because you use the cleaner... it is physically stuck in the channels, and the only way to remove it is to dissassemble. I would suggest running a filter in the loop somewhere.. i've never seen that much stuff built up.. jeeeze!


----------



## ACallander

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24289/ex-liq-389/Mayhems_Aurora_Coolant_Premix_-_1L_-_Extinction_Green.html

So this is Aurora 2? That I can run in my system like Mayhems Pastel?


----------



## Jeronbernal

Aurora 2 comes in red blue or silver, so nah. Unless someone in the middle mixed it.

Yeah, I kinda wished at least the name changed, retailer updated their site or something lol, just gotta blind shop =) I'll be making a call to ppcs and fcpu here in a day or two, I'll let you know what they say about the green Aurora for you


----------



## Mayhem

The name on the new bottle has changed to Aurora 2 ...... How ever that only changed over the last few weeks so wont filter though for a few weeks to USA

1Ltr



250ml Concentrate


----------



## hamed599

hello
I have a question.I really like the different colors and have a lot of colors. I kept them in a cool, dark place
How long can I keep them without causing problems?


----------



## Mayhem

If they are unopened and kept at 20 to 25c out of direct sunlight the dyes will last years (we've had some now for over 5 years +). Opened one we say 1 to 3 years how ever again we've got some we've had for 5 years +. Coolants are different and can last from 1 to 3 years.

If left in sunlight or not with in 20 to 25c this will change.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The name on the new bottle has changed to Aurora 2 ...... How ever that only changed over the last few weeks so wont filter though for a few weeks to USA
> 
> 1Ltr
> 
> 
> 
> 250ml Concentrate


Thanks, it'll really help alot. I went through the thread and I guess I'm not the only one losing their hair over it =p


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Aurora 2 comes in red blue or silver, so nah. Unless someone in the middle mixed it.
> 
> Yeah, I kinda wished at least the name changed, retailer updated their site or something lol, just gotta blind shop =) I'll be making a call to ppcs and fcpu here in a day or two, I'll let you know what they say about the green Aurora for you


are you sure you want to go with aurora? it is more of a show coolant than for everyday use.


----------



## gdubc

The aurora 2 is more forgiving however, and can be used as a daily runner without the problems the aurora 1 had. I would think simple loops would be a good idea still though.


----------



## giltyler

MAYHEMS Pastel White.

I have been using for a month now and could not be happier with the product.
The dual bay reservoir looks like I have skim milk running through my system and the UV blue tubing's have a much richer color.


----------



## ACallander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> MAYHEMS Pastel White.
> 
> I have been using for a month now and could not be happier with the product.
> The dual bay reservoir looks like I have skim milk running through my system and the UV blue tubing's have a much richer color.


Pic?


----------



## giltyler

System partially down to install my GTX 780TI and EK GPU block.
When that is done I can post some pictures.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> MAYHEMS Pastel White.
> 
> I have been using for a month now and could not be happier with the product.
> The dual bay reservoir looks like I have skim milk running through my system and the UV blue tubing's have a much richer color.


Hey man, good to see you here too! As already mentioned, we need some pictures now


----------



## giltyler

Once My GTX 780TI and water block come in I will grab some fresh pictures.
Right now I need to decide on which on of the back plates I will use since I bought 2

This water block is inbound
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_240_579&products_id=39786

And these back Plates

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_1018_1038_1208&products_id=41104

http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=100-BP-2881-B9

Not sure what will look best but covered the back will be.


----------



## VSG

The EVGA backplate on my KPE looks nice and actually does help a wee bit. The EK one should too if you got air flowing over the backplate.


----------



## SavellM

Hey @Mick,

So I used Mayhems XT-1 Clear about 75ml for about 1.25L of DI water.

Will this ratio be good or too much?

Lastly with dye, how much dye can you put in without upsetting the ecosystem?


----------



## Mayhem

Hi Savell the mix ratio is on the bottle but the minimum is 5%.

As for dye you will tell when you reach saturation as the colour will not change any more but always remember less is better.


----------



## SavellM

Honestly I don't really understand that minimum is 5%.

And thanks about the dye









This is my loop currently using Lazer Green and a bit of normal UV Green.


----------



## Mayhem

Oky here you go

MIx Ratio

5% per (1 Ltr or 1000ml) = 50ml of XT-1 + 950ml Water
10% per (1 Ltr or 1000ml) = 100ml of XT-1 + 900ml Water
15% per (1 Ltr or 1000ml) = 150ml of XT-1 + 850ml Water

Hope this helps.

Mick

p.s system looks grate


----------



## SavellM

Perfect thanks Mick.

That does make more sense.

Is there a too much where it becomes unsafe?
Or a best practice like 10% is a good guideline?


----------



## Jeronbernal

savellm. man i just checked out the pics to your baby grand build. my god you're a master.


----------



## psycho84

With Acrylic Tubing the Pastel Red looks much better


----------



## Mayhem

5% is a safe mix anything less is not good. 10% is for when you go sub zero or running a chiller.

The Mix Ratio are on our site

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/xt-1.html#.U7HQnfldWSo

e.g 10% will let you go down to -2.5c, 33% will let you go down to -20c


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> how long would you say running a loop of x1 till an AC rad would be clean enough to run pastel? or would the rad always have stuff in it? i'm inclined to think that after a few changes it would be free of contaminants.. but thats just my guess.. Any thoughts?


I did the acid / base washes and all the stuff, and then some, .... ending with a 1 week run on distilled water (7.03 pH at conclusion) before adding pastel. It was fine for about 4 months and then went to mud in a few days. At this point Mayhems stance is Blitz Kit is required.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Pastel is relatively sensitive to pH imbalances. CuSo4 makes water drastically lower it's pH. Obviously by the time you add one or two drops to a liter or more of water it's not going to lower the pH of the coolant as a whole by that much, but it's potent enough to cause issues with pastel.


Lurkers be advised .... that 1st sentence is important. Be aware.... the pH of distilled water drops to about 5.6 if exposed to air. Absorption of carbon dioxide creates carbonic acid. Suggest 1) Keep the lid oin bottle till ya use..... b) test it before using.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dave584*
> 
> Hello
> I have a question. On your website you say
> "Do not use Mayhems Pastel with Tygon tubing
> as Mayhems Pastel seems to react with it changing the colour of the tubing to a greenish colour"
> 
> Is that true because this is my problem. I have my system tubed with tygon and use Mayhems Pastel Orange.
> And after 2 hours it getting darker.
> 
> Mayhems_Pastel_Orange_01.jpg 282k .jpg file
> 
> 
> Greetings


Tygon makes a lot of tubing .... so I doubt every line is similarly affected. Tubing color changes are most likely the result of absorption. Walk into any water testing laboratory and you will see lotsa 2475 specifically because it's water absorption is below 0.01%

Take a peek here.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1347354/tygon-user-club


----------



## dave584

@JackNaylorPE
THX








Greetings


----------



## ROGX

Hey, you guys think its a good idea to run my loop in distilled water first, then my pastel red, to make sure there's no crap left in my loop? I just finished installing everything


----------



## SavellM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> savellm. man i just checked out the pics to your baby grand build. my god you're a master.


Haha thanks so much buddy








Its been a great project.

But I couldnt have done it without some proper guidance and help.
Something Mick and others have been great at.


----------



## Mayhem

Rads have been tested they have now gone off for independent testing. Always best to get a point of view of someone who hates you







. lol


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Rads have been tested they have now gone off for independent testing. Always best to get a point of view of someone who hates you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . lol


Lolll you won't find better testers than your haters


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROGX*
> 
> Hey, you guys think its a good idea to run my loop in distilled water first, then my pastel red, to make sure there's no crap left in my loop? I just finished installing everything


I always leak test and flush with distilled before adding the coolant. I'd recommend it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Rads have been tested they have now gone off for independent testing. Always best to get a point of view of someone who hates you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . lol


Awesome! Can't wait to see them in action.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROGX*
> 
> Hey, you guys think its a good idea to run my loop in distilled water first, then my pastel red, to make sure there's no crap left in my loop? I just finished installing everything


I did..... and was glad I did.....I ran on DW for a week.

1) After a week I found black paint flakes in my CPU WB presumably from threaded fittings .... was glad I had clear plexi top.

2) Other than that the was no stuff in rads .... pH was 7.03 coming out ... was higher than I expected.

3) My red pastel was great for about 120 days and then went muddy over next 3 days. Waiting for some time to Blitz it.


----------



## orwasmadi

Hello Guys,

I am Planning to use the Aurora in my next build as an eye candy only, the lequid will cycle between the Pump and the reservoir only, so i need your experience answering a couple of questions:

1- What is the best reservoir to use that will guarantee a Hurricane of movement inside the Tube?

2- I've heard that it is recommended to avoid using one side of the reservoir as input and output since the liquid on the other end will not be sucked and will remain still, is that correct ?


----------



## Mayhem

Tbh any tube res should do as long as you have a in and out on it. E.g a tube res thats act as a T-Line is no good.

Its best to play and see what suit you, we've built a few systems were the res is laid flat as long as its at an angle.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Tbh any tube res should do as long as you have a in and out on it. E.g a tube res thats act as a T-Line is no good.
> 
> Its best to play and see what suit you, we've built a few systems were the res is laid flat as long as its at an angle.


I'm going with acrylic tubing and i just bought pastel white UV.
if i mix red dye and UV dye with white pastel could i create a red pastel UV ??


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> I'm going with acrylic tubing and i just bought pastel white UV.
> I would like to know if i mix red dye and UV dye with white pastel would i able to create a pastel red UV ??


You can, but it will take a TON of UV pink to do it.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You can, but it will take a TON of UV pink to do it.


And it would pretty much make his radiators/tubing/blocks unusable in the future with anything except UV Pink. That stuff stains like crazy. Even radiators get stained so badly that no flushing will clean em.


----------



## pompss

mixing dye with aurora 2 can cause issues??


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> And it would pretty much make his radiators/tubing/blocks unusable in the future with anything except UV Pink. That stuff stains like crazy. Even radiators get stained so badly that no flushing will clean em.


Yep you right !!!
So i think it will be better using x1 red UV Instead !!!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> mixing dye with aurora 2 can cause issues??


You can dye aurora no problem at all.

UV dye isn't desired because you are basically taking two opposite effects and trying to make them both show up. Aurora particles reflect light which creates the effect. UV effects work by absorbing light and the reaction causes it to glow. Trying to take a reflection effect and mix it with an absorption effect is counter productive


----------



## VSG

Using Mayhems Blitz Part 1 on a Alphacool Monsta 480, Phobya G-Changer 120 and Swiftech MCR120-XP:



There was just a little left over after these three rads. I got a Mo.Ra 3 9.140, HardwareLabs Black Ice SR1 560 and XSPC AX480 left lol. I got 2 bottles of Part 2 (8 liters) too so that should be enough to clean up the remaining rads as well as bring back the pH to neutral for all of them.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Blitz Part one will hit the USA once PPC places its next order. It just quiet at the moment in the water cooling world so we cannot say when that will be.


----------



## VSG

Well I know it will be at least another month based on emails.

Edit: This is what I got after having had Part 1 in there for ~6-7 hours:



















As expected, most of it was from the Alphacool rad. Plenty of flushes with distilled water later, there are still small particles that come out. Next up is a pre-treatment of the remaining rads with vinegar/distilled water and then a simple Part 2, rad-only loop to finish the job.


----------



## Cobra Khan

Has anyone here run the UV Clear Blue dye in UV reactive acrylic tubing?


----------



## Mayhem

Oky managed to get in touch with BoxGods ref the monsoon silver plated fittings and hopefully they will be sending some out for us to test and make sure there is no issues. We've also just purchased a Monsoon Res (to test with the new aurora) which came with 2 silver bullets that we will also be putting in the loops. We will test all the fluids we have and a couple of future ones and let you all know how its goes







.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I used the Aurora 2 clear/white supernova and it required very little dye to get a deep color, orange in this case. Not even close to a whole 15ml bottle of dye (orange in this case). It dyes very easily.


I'm thinking I might pull the trigger and get the clear/white Aurora 2. Only I would put in just enough of it in my loop to get traces of that metallic swirl. The goal is to keep the distilled as clear and possible, but also have a tint of the Aurora 2 to make it more lively inside. Especially with all the crazy stuff I have going on with my build.

Never mind... After reading all of the reviews, I found that the Aurora's not made for daily use. And as much as I'd like to use Aurora 2, I'd hate to have to clean all the residue out of my elaborate loop when the time came. Not only am I lazy like that, but it's a lot of stuff to clean out.


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky managed to get in touch with BoxGods ref the monsoon silver plated fittings and hopefully they will be sending some out for us to test and make sure there is no issues. We've also just purchased a Monsoon Res (to test with the new aurora) which came with 2 silver bullets that we will also be putting in the loops. We will test all the fluids we have and a couple of future ones and let you all know how its goes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


----------



## riesscar

Hello,

I use Mayhem's fluids to create a pastel blood red, and I follow the video guide to do so. The past two times that I have mixed and used the coolant, it stained my Primoflex Advanced LRT Clear tubing within a week of use. This is curious, because it did not do so the first time I made the color.

I have been considering what variable changed between the first time and the following two times in prefer to isolate what was causing the staining. The only change I can think of which might account for the staining is that I used 'deep red' dye the second two times, whereas I used the 10ml bottle of 'red' dye the first time. The reason I switched to deep red is that I could not find the regular red dye anywhere when I was ordering it... except for from Mayhem in the UK, which is inefficient given that I am in the states.

Does anyone know why my tubing would be stained so quickly the last two times? Here is a photo of it:



It's actually not an issue any more, as I have switched to rigid acrylic tubing, but I am curious as to what might be the cause.

Thanks for any info,

Carson


----------



## MrBlunt

almost definately the red dye.. that probably stains the worst.


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> almost definately the red dye.. that probably stains the worst.


If the deep red dye is what caused it, then Mayhem should be aware of this, as resistance to staining is one of the main reasons I use Mayhem dyes and coolant.

-Carson


----------



## kimoswabi

Mayhems Deep Red dye and Purple dye in Mayhems X1 coolent. 6+months. PrimoFlex Advanced LRT clear tubing.
Don't remember how many drops but I've added enough Deep Red dye to saturate the red color, meaning adding additional drops of dye would not change or deepen the red color.

No noticeable staining. I don't think it's the dye but maybe a combination of the dye plus something in your loop.


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Mayhems Deep Red dye and Purple dye in Mayhems X1 coolent. 6+months. PrimoFlex Advanced LRT clear tubing.
> Don't remember how many drops but I've added enough Deep Red dye to saturate the red color, meaning adding additional drops of dye would not change or deepen the red color.
> 
> No noticeable staining. I don't think it's the dye but maybe a combination of the dye plus something in your loop.


I see, thanks for the response. So perhaps I've added more dye than was necessary. That is actually a variable I hadn't considered, as I has to double the recipe due to a larger loop and an extra reservoir. I don't think it's anything in my loop, though, but I'll do a flush and test the ph to be sure.

Thanks again,

Carson


----------



## Mayhem

Sorry that is not the red dye but the tubing. It happened also with white pastel, purple, Blue and Yellow and Orange. We've tested all these colours and i can show you it happening even to clear coolant and has nothing to do with the colour used. For some reason the tubing turns brownish / deep yellowish and we do not know why. Contact PC and ask them why there tubing is turning a different colour and many people are seeing it with different set ups and coolants inc water.

Even though it does turn that colour we still will recommend it as its not leaching bad plasticizers into the system and is DEP free which to use is excellent.


----------



## ppkstat

Same thing happened to me with advanced LRT and white pastel (no dyes) in one year of use. The tubing is stained green now.


----------



## Jeronbernal

Anyone here have a weird reaction with pastel white and Koolance quick disconnects?

I have some weird white.. Chalky substance stuck in them, I used them in a older build, the Koolance qd3's


----------



## ppkstat

I have pastel white and QD4s in my loop but haven't noticed any residue in them. Its probably the nano particles though, they should be easy to remove.


----------



## Jeronbernal

yeah, i got rid of the residue. im guessing it might be just because i used the QDC's as a drain in a sense, i had the g1/4 male qdc attached to the pump top, and the female compression end attached to a spare tube so whenever i wanted to drain, instead of using a ball valve, all i had to do was attach the qdc, and open my fill port.

it was probably because the qdc was in a area of "dead water" that was just a limb off of the loop


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Anyone here have a weird reaction with pastel white and Koolance quick disconnects?
> 
> I have some weird white.. Chalky substance stuck in them, I used them in a older build, the Koolance qd3's


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> yeah, i got rid of the residue. im guessing it might be just because i used the QDC's as a drain in a sense, i had the g1/4 male qdc attached to the pump top, and the female compression end attached to a spare tube so whenever i wanted to drain, instead of using a ball valve, all i had to do was attach the qdc, and open my fill port.
> 
> it was probably because the qdc was in a area of "dead water" that was just a limb off of the loop


Pastel is a nano fluid, in a deadzone of no flow nano particles will fall out of suspension. The particles in pastel are extremely close to neutrally buoyant so it generally isn't as much of an issue as, lets say old Aurora, but it is still a nano fluid and if there is a little crevice the flow goes against particles will probably settle in there.


----------



## VSG

So I am running part 2 of the Blitz kit on a rad only loop, but it isn't foaming at all like the pictures I have seen. Any idea why? I followed the instructions to the letter, even drained the same diluted part 2 and refilled it to be sure. I got the inlet and outlet of the reservoir at the bottom if that matters (don't see why since the loop is filled with it anway).

Edit: The top of the reservoir is the only place with foam and that's because I filled it there. Does this take a lot of time?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Guessing your flow isn't causing enough turbulence in the loop to cause a foaming action.

So even on the dyes it's recommend to have a neutral ph in a distilled loop? Just want to double check so I don't screw something up lol









And I ought I ordered purple dye but guess I clicked in the wrong section on ppc's site and ended up with red so looks like I'll be ordering some blue (not sure which shade yet)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So I am running part 2 of the Blitz kit on a rad only loop, but it isn't foaming at all like the pictures I have seen. Any idea why? I followed the instructions to the letter, even drained the same diluted part 2 and refilled it to be sure. I got the inlet and outlet of the reservoir at the bottom if that matters (don't see why since the loop is filled with it anway).
> 
> Edit: The top of the reservoir is the only place with foam and that's because I filled it there. Does this take a lot of time?


Got enough radiator space there?

Anyways, what pump do you have and if it's adjustable what setting is it on?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Guessing your flow isn't causing enough turbulence in the loop to cause a foaming action.
> 
> So even on the dyes it's recommend to have a neutral ph in a distilled loop? Just want to double check so I don't screw something up lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I ought I ordered purple dye but guess I clicked in the wrong section on ppc's site and ended up with red so looks like I'll be ordering some blue (not sure which shade yet)


pH will wack out ANYTHING if it's low and/or high enough. What coolant are you using with the dyes, if any?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I was going to just run distilled as I have been since I've had no issues w/ just straight distilled since my cpu block and rads are all copper based.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Got enough radiator space there?
> 
> Anyways, what pump do you have and if it's adjustable what setting is it on?


Those rads are for 3 custom loops total, and I am still wondering if I should get another one









I got an mcp35x in there, it is running at full speed. I don't think the turbulence is an issue as suggested above because the builders at OcUK did the same thing with a rad only loop without issues:



So that's why I am wondering if there was something off here or if I simply don't have enough pump power? I can see the water flowing though pretty quick though.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I was going to just run distilled as I have been since I've had no issues w/ just straight distilled since my cpu block and rads are all copper based.


Wait, then what are you doing for a biocide? Anyways, you should be fine with just a regular flush unless you're using red dye. Then, depending on the rads you're using, I'd do a proper solvent, alkaline flush.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Those rads are for 3 custom loops total, and I am still wondering if I should get another one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got an mcp35x in there, it is running at full speed. I don't think the turbulence is an issue as suggested above because the builders at OcUK did the same thing with a rad only loop without issues:
> 
> 
> 
> So that's why I am wondering if there was something off here or if I simply don't have enough pump power? I can see the water flowing though pretty quick though.


Naw man, stack it all in one loop. Step One: Add a ton of rads in a single loop. Step Two: ??? Step Three: Profit

Anyways, MCP35x is a hell of a pump, I doubt it's a turbulence problem as well. You probably just didn't aerate the mixture that much, which isn't a problem. You don't get foam unless you aerate something.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Naw man, stack it all in one loop. Step One: Add a ton of rads in a single loop. Step Two: ??? Step Three: Profit
> 
> Anyways, MCP35x is a hell of a pump, I doubt it's a turbulence problem as well. You probably just didn't aerate the mixture that much, which isn't a problem. You don't get foam unless you aerate something.


Ya, just waiting for profit now









As long as this cleans out the rads, that's enough for me- foam or no foam. But I am very impressed by Part 1: no amount of hot water flushes or even a vinegar bath was enough to get out that gunk from the Alphacool rads that this did. Granted I didn't try out any other acid but I definitely recommend Part 1 to any Alphacool/Phobya rad owner running any coolant other than pure distilled water.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, just waiting for profit now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As long as this cleans out the rads, that's enough for me- foam or no foam. But I am very impressed by Part 1: no amount of hot water flushes or even a vinegar bath was enough to get out that gunk from the Alphacool rads that this did. Granted I didn't try out any other acid but I definitely recommend Part 1 to any Alphacool/Phobya rad owner running any coolant other than pure distilled water.


It's more or less hydrochloric acid diluted in water... Similar to muriatic acid, just different concentrations. Have you ever smelled muriatic acid? It smells like death. Death and burning nose hairs. XD


----------



## MrBlunt

Unfortunately with a complex acrylic loop, i dont think i could use that on my rads, I just use the SCALDING HOT tap water with a fitting that adapts to 1/4". pair of disconnects on the back so i can just break into the loop and add another pair of quick disconnects to allow the scalding hot water to just flow through the system and out the drain for awhile, even a few hours.. afterwards i go through the waterblocks get any gunk out. Run some distilled a couple times, then final coolant. So far so good =)


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It's more or less hydrochloric acid diluted in water... Similar to muriatic acid, just different concentrations. Have you ever smelled muriatic acid? It smells like death. Death and burning nose hairs. XD


Pretty sure Mick said it was phosphoric acid, which makes sense given the lower interaction with actual solder material. Never smelled muruatic acid but have smelled plenty of terrible odors already.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Pretty sure Mick said it was phosphoric acid, which makes sense given the lower interaction with actual solder material. Never smelled muruatic acid but have smelled plenty of terrible odors already.


Did he? My bad, either way if you want to know what burning nose hair smells like pick up some muriatic acid.


----------



## VSG

lol no thanks, not in a rush


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Wait, then what are you doing for a biocide? Anyways, you should be fine with just a regular flush unless you're using red dye. Then, depending on the rads you're using, I'd do a proper solvent, alkaline flush.
> Naw man, stack it all in one loop. Step One: Add a ton of rads in a single loop. Step Two: ??? Step Three: Profit
> 
> Anyways, MCP35x is a hell of a pump, I doubt it's a turbulence problem as well. You probably just didn't aerate the mixture that much, which isn't a problem. You don't get foam unless you aerate something.


I have a Kill coil in the system currently (have it in the reservoir)

muruatic definitely smells like something has been decomposing in high heat for a while lol


----------



## SavellM

X1 vs XT1?

Im going to use UV Lazer green dye.

Or I may use UV Green Premix if I go X1...

What would be best to protect my loop?
Im using acrylic tube, and 2x GPU, CPU, mobo and 2 rads.

Whats the diff between XT1 and X1?

I know XT1 is new.

So I would use Clear XT1, with UV Lazer green dye, and DI water?

Or just X1 Premix UV Green


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> X1 vs XT1?
> 
> Im going to use UV Lazer green dye.
> 
> Or I may use UV Green Premix if I go X1...
> 
> What would be best to protect my loop?
> Im using acrylic tube, and 2x GPU, CPU, mobo and 2 rads.
> 
> Whats the diff between XT1 and X1?
> 
> I know XT1 is new.
> 
> So I would use Clear XT1, with UV Lazer green dye, and DI water?
> 
> Or just X1 Premix UV Green


The main difference is XT1 is glycol based and X1 is not. XT1 is optimal for sub ambient cooling, but will work in a normal cooling system just fine.

My personal preference is the X1, however. If you want the laser green, I'd get X1 clear and add the dye. The uv effect will dull overtime (all uv dyes do this), so it is nice to have the dye anyway to give it a little boost if it dulls


----------



## landon418

@Mayhem, I think I need your help of getting some pastel coolant to match the blue shade in this sleeving. Would it be best to start with white and add blue dye, or start with blueberry and darken it? If anyone else knows about this stuff, I would appreciate your input too!







Thanks!


----------



## The EX1

Start with blueberry and darken it with a few drops of deep blue. If you start with white you will have to add a ton of dye.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *landon418*
> 
> @Mayhem, I think I need your help of getting some pastel coolant to match the blue shade in this sleeving. Would it be best to start with white and add blue dye, or start with blueberry and darken it? If anyone else knows about this stuff, I would appreciate your input too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Blueberry is already pretty close to that blue. Just needs a little dye.


----------



## landon418

Yea I think that will work! Thanks for your help!







I'll get some blueberry and some blue dye.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *landon418*
> 
> Yea I think that will work! Thanks for your help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll get some blueberry and some blue dye.


No problem. Post up your results!


----------



## landon418

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> No problem. Post up your results!


One last question, should I get regular blue dye, or the dark blue dye? Thanks


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *landon418*
> 
> One last question, should I get regular blue dye, or the dark blue dye? Thanks


I would do the regular blue just because you aren't moving very much on the light and dark scale. You will just be intensifying the blue.


----------



## landon418

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> I would do the regular blue just because you aren't moving very much on the light and dark scale. You will just be intensifying the blue.


Alright


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *landon418*
> 
> Alright


do you have a build log?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavellM*
> 
> X1 vs XT1?
> 
> Im going to use UV Lazer green dye.
> 
> Or I may use UV Green Premix if I go X1...
> 
> What would be best to protect my loop?
> Im using acrylic tube, and 2x GPU, CPU, mobo and 2 rads.
> 
> Whats the diff between XT1 and X1?
> 
> I know XT1 is new.
> 
> So I would use Clear XT1, with UV Lazer green dye, and DI water?
> 
> Or just X1 Premix UV Green


X1 is vegetable extract based, slightly cheaper, and weaker corrosion inhibitors (Still pretty good inhibitors) XT1 is Ethylene glycol based (vehicle antifreeze) INSANELY powerful corrosion inhibitors (EG acts as an ionic buffer) and a bit more expensive. It can also lower the freezing temp of the coolant. XT1 isn't new, it's just much less popular. People tend to stray from EG in the world of computer liquid cooling as there are a lot of crappy EG based fluids, and glycol based coolants have had issues with gunking in the past. XT1 works fine, but once bitten twice shy as they say so EG doesn't have the best reputation.

If you want UV reactive dyes I would ALWAYS say go with X1, never used XT1 for UV reactive dyes but from my experience many coolants/additives/concentrates have issues with killing off UV effects in the liquid. UV dyes are really sensitive.


----------



## SavellM

Umm thanks for the replys...

Most informative.


----------



## Interstate

Incoming! Replacing my pastel white. Ill post before and afters when I'm done


----------



## VSG

So I figured out my loop with the Part 2 Blitz solution wasn't foaming, I attached a flowmeter and did a rough calculation. The flow was totally laminar, not turbulent enough. I dismantled the loop and attached only one rad at a time.. foam everywhere in the loop now lol. So there you go- a single mcp35x isn't enough for turbulent flow if you have a Mo.Ra 3 rad in the loop


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So I figured out my loop with the Part 2 Blitz solution wasn't foaming, I attached a flowmeter and did a rough calculation. The flow was totally laminar, not turbulent enough. I dismantled the loop and attached only one rad at a time.. foam everywhere in the loop now lol. So there you go- a single mcp35x isn't enough for turbulent flow if you have a Mo.Ra 3 rad in the loop


Oh right, I forget how restrictive the Mo-Ra is. XD


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Oh right, I forget how restrictive the Mo-Ra is. XD


Not just restrictive, it splits flow 4 ways in parallel so internal flow rates are way lower too. I definitely need a dual pump for the loop with it- mcp35x2 or dual mcp50x pumps maybe.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not just restrictive, it splits flow 4 ways in parallel so internal flow rates are way lower too. I definitely need a dual pump for the loop with it- mcp35x2 or dual mcp50x pumps maybe.


Or a PMP-500 if you don't mind going deaf.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Or a PMP-500 if you don't mind going deaf.


Too loud for my taste! I thought about the PMP 450 (D5 Strong) too but Koolance have stopped selling their 12-24V adapter. The only way to get it to run at 24V from a US retailer is to buy their pump controller as well and at that price, dual DDC pumps would be much better- especially if the Swiftech mcp50x is coming out cheaper than the mcp35x as we have been hearing.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Too loud for my taste! I thought about the PMP 450 (D5 Strong) too but Koolance have stopped selling their 12-24V adapter. The only way to get it to run at 24V from a US retailer is to buy their pump controller as well and at that price, dual DDC pumps would be much better- especially if the Swiftech mcp50x is coming out cheaper than the mcp35x as we have been hearing.


It's SUPPOSED to be $15-$20 or so cheaper since Swiftech is making these in house instead of rebranding laings, unfortunately though it's not compatible with current DDC pump tops which is a deal breaker for me.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So I figured out my loop with the Part 2 Blitz solution wasn't foaming, I attached a flowmeter and did a rough calculation. The flow was totally laminar, not turbulent enough. I dismantled the loop and attached only one rad at a time.. foam everywhere in the loop now lol. So there you go- a single mcp35x isn't enough for turbulent flow if you have a Mo.Ra 3 rad in the loop


Pretty brave to try all that with just a single DDC, lol. O_O

For your loop, I'd put in 2 D5s personally


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It's SUPPOSED to be $15-$20 or so cheaper since Swiftech is making these in house instead of rebranding laings, unfortunately though it's not compatible with current DDC pump tops which is a deal breaker for me.


Ya, but then again I don't mind the stock top on the 35x seeing how it is the best performing one anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Pretty brave to try all that with just a single DDC, lol. O_O
> 
> For your loop, I'd put in 2 D5s personally


Typical rads are no more restrictive than tubing, so I figured other than the Mo.Ra it shouldn't be bad at all. I underestimated that beast. I am not sure D5s can handle that amount of restriction to be honest, and having PWM on the DDCs will help with the noise part. Nothing confirmed yet of course, waiting to see if a couple of sponsorships happen


----------



## landon418

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> do you have a build log?


No, I would have had one, but I had to put my rig on hold because I RMA'd my motherboard, which is shipping back to me.


----------



## Interstate

Before

After
Cell phone pics suck, sorry...


----------



## M3TAl

Personally I like the white. But then again I'm a sucker for white and never been a fan of red. Either way nice job


----------



## Mayhem

Just a little some thing were building but its not a high end system just a simple apu. Yeh thats w ignorant of me its a "PARVUM Case". with custom logo on it


----------



## DarthBaggins

Love those Parvum cases


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a little some thing were building but its not a high end system just a simple apu. Yeh thats w ignorant of me its a "PARVUM Case". with custom logo on it


I love it!!!!!

Parvum + Mayhems = an happy Akira749


----------



## snef

Need to know where I can buy Aurora 2 Nebula in North America
and can you tel me how to know if its a V2 , not see anything about that on bottle
and can we use Aurora2 in a 24/7 build or still for show?

Thanks
pics of my current build logs with Mayhem Pastel Blueberry


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Need to know where I can buy Aurora 2 Nebula in North America
> and can you tel me how to know if its a V2 , not see anything about that on bottle
> and can we use Aurora2 in a 24/7 build or still for show?
> 
> Thanks
> pics of my current build logs with Mayhem Pastel Blueberry
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


A2 will have a "New and improved" bubble on the label, and currently only comes in white, red, and blue. As to what stores currently have it in stock, as opposed to the old stuff, your best bet would be to email em and ask.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> yeah, i got rid of the residue. im guessing it might be just because i used the QDC's as a drain in a sense, i had the g1/4 male qdc attached to the pump top, and the female compression end attached to a spare tube so whenever i wanted to drain, instead of using a ball valve, all i had to do was attach the qdc, and open my fill port.
> 
> it was probably because the qdc was in a area of "dead water" that was just a limb off of the loop


QDC's tend to have a plating issue specially the black ones, that they get this residue over time even with the Koolance coolant.


----------



## defiler2k

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Need to know where I can buy Aurora 2 Nebula in North America
> and can you tel me how to know if its a V2 , not see anything about that on bottle
> and can we use Aurora2 in a 24/7 build or still for show?
> 
> Thanks
> pics of my current build logs with Mayhem Pastel Blueberry






The label says V2 See this post from Mayhem for the images


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> 
> The label says V2 See this post from Mayhem for the images


It's going to take a bit for the bottles with the newer labels to slip stream in. They only started printing that new label a week or so ago, so there's a slim chance the current stocks of A2 already have it.


----------



## Mayhem

Thank you Ayd over at SpecialTech UK Water Cooling for sending us the new Monsoon Silver Plated fittings for testing with our coolants. We will be testing these out to make sure our coolants do not have any issues with them as requested by many consumers on different forums. Ive already done my homework with Monsoon and have the details of how they are made so we suspect there will be no issues what so ever tbh. How ever let testing commence.


----------



## riesscar

Hello All,

I am in the process of switching over to rigid tubing, and I made an incredibly moronic mistake that caused my Mayhem Pastel Blood Red coolant to spill onto my MB, RAM and -- to a lesser degree -- my GPU. I had my top-mounted rad ports open without stop fittings on them, and I carelessly used my DataVac to blow dust off of the GPU backplate... upon doing so, residual red coolant spilled out and was then blown back towards the Motherboard. This is why I shouldn't pull all-nighters when rig-building









I have performed the following steps:

I removed my board and components from the chassis

- I did an initial wipe down of all visible coolant/liquid on all components
- I then used my DataVac to blow as much of the coolant as possible from underneath the hard to reach spots (under the DIMM slots, in the PCI-e x16 slot etc...)
- I then heavily saturated cotton swabs with isopropyl alcohol in order to lift the dried/stubborn coolant and then cleaned that. I repeated this step about 20 times everywhere that coolant could feasibly have spilled .
- I then used my DataVac again and repeated the aforementioned cleaning method until no more red appeared on my q-tips.

My questions are as follows:

1) Is Mayhem's pastel coolant, x1 concentrate or significantly more conductive than DI water? I suspect that the nano-particles render it more conductive, but how much more. If just distilled or DI water had spilled, I would've just blown it dry, let it sit for a day and then cranked it up, but I notice that the red coolant seems to refuse to dry completely. It sort of turns into a slick/syrupy stain that wipes easily and seems wet when I run my finger over it. Are there any specific steps I should take to clean Mayhem coolant off of my board?

2) Obviosly my board was not connected to a power source, but my CMOS battery was still in, and some coolant ran over the top of it... should I be concerned that this caused a short?

3) Are there any steps I should take that I haven't mentioned? Is it the case that as long as I ensure make sure my MB and component PCB's are dry I should be in the clear?

4) I am using 70% isopropyl alcohol... should I step up to the 90% range? I have seen posts in which experienced techies recommend actually spraying the board down with 90% isopropyl and then blowing it dry and waiting 24-48 hrs. Is this safe? Is it recommended?

I know that my questions are not all Mayhem specific, but I figured that I would post here since it was dyed Pastel coolant that spilled.

I really appreciate any suggestions/advice, as I am quite concerned that when I power on my board I'm going to lose my the whole build... and then my mind









Thanks,

Carson


----------



## gdubc

I really appreciate you doing this! My concerns with the silver fittings are more to do with the fact I have so many ek nickel blocks, not so much whether or not your fluids themselves are compatible. I am hoping that the inhibitors in your coolants will keep the different metals in my loops from waging war on each other. Maybe you could set up a loop with some ek nickel blocks as well?


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I am in the process of switching over to rigid tubing, and I made an incredibly moronic mistake that caused my Mayhem Pastel Blood Red coolant to spill onto my MB, RAM and -- to a lesser degree -- my GPU. I had my top-mounted rad ports open without stop fittings on them, and I carelessly used my DataVac to blow dust off of the GPU backplate... upon doing so, residual red coolant spilled out and was then blown back towards the Motherboard. This is why I shouldn't pull all-nighters when rig-building
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have performed the following steps:
> 
> I removed my board and components from the chassis
> 
> - I did an initial wipe down of all visible coolant/liquid on all components
> - I then used my DataVac to blow as much of the coolant as possible from underneath the hard to reach spots (under the DIMM slots, in the PCI-e x16 slot etc...)
> - I then heavily saturated cotton swabs with isopropyl alcohol in order to lift the dried/stubborn coolant and then cleaned that. I repeated this step about 20 times everywhere that coolant could feasibly have spilled .
> - I then used my DataVac again and repeated the aforementioned cleaning method until no more red appeared on my q-tips.
> 
> My questions are as follows:
> 
> 1) Is Mayhem's pastel coolant, x1 concentrate or significantly more conductive than DI water? I suspect that the nano-particles render it more conductive, but how much more. If just distilled or DI water had spilled, I would've just blown it dry, let it sit for a day and then cranked it up, but I notice that the red coolant seems to refuse to dry completely. It sort of turns into a slick/syrupy stain that wipes easily and seems wet when I run my finger over it. Are there any specific steps I should take to clean Mayhem coolant off of my board?
> 
> 2) Obviosly my board was not connected to a power source, but my CMOS battery was still in, and some coolant ran over the top of it... should I be concerned that this caused a short?
> 
> 3) Are there any steps I should take that I haven't mentioned? Is it the case that as long as I ensure make sure my MB and component PCB's are dry I should be in the clear?
> 
> 4) I am using 70% isopropyl alcohol... should I step up to the 90% range? I have seen posts in which experienced techies recommend actually spraying the board down with 90% isopropyl and then blowing it dry and waiting 24-48 hrs. Is this safe? Is it recommended?
> 
> I know that my questions are not all Mayhem specific, but I figured that I would post here since it was dyed Pastel coolant that spilled.
> 
> I really appreciate any suggestions/advice, as I am quite concerned that when I power on my board I'm going to lose my the whole build... and then my mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Carson


Sorry to hear about this Carson. I too made a mistake at about 3am one night that caused Pastel Red to drip onto my one of my components. I soaked up everything I could with cotton balls and q-tips and made sure to get into every crevice I could. I then put some 90% isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle and sprayed the board until it had a slow drip. I let the board then air out for two days and all was ok. Of course every situation is different but that did work for me.


----------



## The EX1

Snef that build is incredible!


----------



## Mayhem

@riesscar

1) its the same conductivity as Di water how ever if you had dust on there then 1000x that conductivity.

2) Take it off clean up and wipe off excess and dry out the board for a few days you should be fine.

3) Just clean up and dry it out for a few days you should be oky.

4) Ive never used Iso p to clean a MB. So cannot answer that.

I washed many arcade boards (pacman, Arcadia, Galaxians ect ec)t with DI water and many Motherboards in the past with Plain Di water then dried them off and used them with no issues. As long as there is no power and no dust you should be fine as long as they are dry.


----------



## MrBlunt

ok i had a similiar problem.. i spilled red koolance over EVERYTHING.. AND I MEAN EVERRRRYYYTHING!!! ok so you dissassemble everything, go to cvs get a spray bottle, and abotu 4 bottles of the highest proof isoprophyl alcohol. 98 or 100 is best.. take everything out,, take waterblocks off of video card EVERYTHING.. hold over sink and just spray the EFF out of EVERYTHING with the alcohol.. let it dry for a few days. will be good to go.
I had a spill run directly through the cpu socket, then down through my sli titans.... you can imagine my freak out.. but after i cleaned everything with alcohol, not a SINGLE PROBLEM!!!















you got a lot of work ahead of you, but it is fixable.. just make sure u GET IT ALLL OFF!!! cant use too much alcohol.. do it over the sink. just make sure u let it dry for DAYS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I am in the process of switching over to rigid tubing, and I made an incredibly moronic mistake that caused my Mayhem Pastel Blood Red coolant to spill onto my MB, RAM and -- to a lesser degree -- my GPU. I had my top-mounted rad ports open without stop fittings on them, and I carelessly used my DataVac to blow dust off of the GPU backplate... upon doing so, residual red coolant spilled out and was then blown back towards the Motherboard. This is why I shouldn't pull all-nighters when rig-building
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have performed the following steps:
> 
> I removed my board and components from the chassis
> 
> - I did an initial wipe down of all visible coolant/liquid on all components
> - I then used my DataVac to blow as much of the coolant as possible from underneath the hard to reach spots (under the DIMM slots, in the PCI-e x16 slot etc...)
> - I then heavily saturated cotton swabs with isopropyl alcohol in order to lift the dried/stubborn coolant and then cleaned that. I repeated this step about 20 times everywhere that coolant could feasibly have spilled .
> - I then used my DataVac again and repeated the aforementioned cleaning method until no more red appeared on my q-tips.
> 
> My questions are as follows:
> 
> 1) Is Mayhem's pastel coolant, x1 concentrate or significantly more conductive than DI water? I suspect that the nano-particles render it more conductive, but how much more. If just distilled or DI water had spilled, I would've just blown it dry, let it sit for a day and then cranked it up, but I notice that the red coolant seems to refuse to dry completely. It sort of turns into a slick/syrupy stain that wipes easily and seems wet when I run my finger over it. Are there any specific steps I should take to clean Mayhem coolant off of my board?
> 
> 2) Obviosly my board was not connected to a power source, but my CMOS battery was still in, and some coolant ran over the top of it... should I be concerned that this caused a short?
> 
> 3) Are there any steps I should take that I haven't mentioned? Is it the case that as long as I ensure make sure my MB and component PCB's are dry I should be in the clear?
> 
> 4) I am using 70% isopropyl alcohol... should I step up to the 90% range? I have seen posts in which experienced techies recommend actually spraying the board down with 90% isopropyl and then blowing it dry and waiting 24-48 hrs. Is this safe? Is it recommended?
> 
> I know that my questions are not all Mayhem specific, but I figured that I would post here since it was dyed Pastel coolant that spilled.
> 
> I really appreciate any suggestions/advice, as I am quite concerned that when I power on my board I'm going to lose my the whole build... and then my mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Carson


----------



## riesscar

@EK1:

Thanks for the response. I think that I will do just what you suggested. Thanks for the response.

@Mayem:

There wasn't significant dust on the board, but I cannot say for sure. Either way, thanks so much for the response.

@Mr. Blunt:

Thanks for the response and the detailed advice on how to deal with it. Your measures are thorough, but they seem like the safest way to go, so I think that I will do exactly what you -- and EK1 -- have recommended.

Thanks again to everyone who offered advice. I feel much more in control of the situation









-Carson


----------



## stickg1

So how thorough of a cleaning would I need switching from XT1 to X1?


----------



## Mayhem

Simple flush out unless dye was used then flush till clean water comes though.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

I'm still struggling with my Mayhems Pastel Red turning brown with my alphacool radiators. I did a full vinegar and baking soda flush before my build but that doesn't seem help. My dual loop pastel red loop turned into a blood red within a month and is on its way to full brown. The pastel white on the other hand is still going strong. I've pretty much given up maintaining a balanced pH in my alphacool radiators. No matter how much I flush with viniger, sodium bicarb, then distilled water, it doesn't seem to help.

Thus:
1. will distill water + mayhems red dye + biocide turn brown under the same environment?
2. How does X1 red react to a environment that turns pastel red, brown?
3. How does X1 vs dye + distilled water compare? I know X1 is veggie extracts but what effect benefit is it over distilled water + dye + biocide?
4. Is Aurora 2 as susceptible to the pH as Pastel?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> I'm still struggling with my Mayhems Pastel Red turning brown with my alphacool radiators. I did a full vinegar and baking soda flush before my build but that doesn't seem help. My dual loop pastel red loop turned into a blood red within a month and is on its way to full brown. The pastel white on the other hand is still going strong. I've pretty much given up maintaining a balanced pH in my alphacool radiators. No matter how much I flush with viniger, sodium bicarb, then distilled water, it doesn't seem to help.
> 
> Thus:
> 1. will distill water + mayhems red dye + biocide turn brown under the same environment?
> 2. How does X1 red react to a environment that turns pastel red, brown?
> 3. How does X1 vs dye + distilled water compare? I know X1 is veggie extracts but what effect benefit is it over distilled water + dye + biocide?
> 4. Is Aurora 2 as susceptible to the pH as Pastel?


Blitz it, that's probably the best advice you can get if you're having issues with alphacool rads.


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> I'm still struggling with my Mayhems Pastel Red turning brown with my alphacool radiators. I did a full vinegar and baking soda flush before my build but that doesn't seem help. My dual loop pastel red loop turned into a blood red within a month and is on its way to full brown. The pastel white on the other hand is still going strong. I've pretty much given up maintaining a balanced pH in my alphacool radiators. No matter how much I flush with viniger, sodium bicarb, then distilled water, it doesn't seem to help.
> 
> Thus:
> 1. will distill water + mayhems red dye + biocide turn brown under the same environment?
> 2. How does X1 red react to a environment that turns pastel red, brown?
> 3. How does X1 vs dye + distilled water compare? I know X1 is veggie extracts but what effect benefit is it over distilled water + dye + biocide?
> 4. Is Aurora 2 as susceptible to the pH as Pastel?


Syan48306,

Is the coolant turning brown or is the tubing staining? If the coolant is turning brown, it's probably the ph level of your coolant. I had a brownish hue that was caused by my Primoflex tubing staining.

-Carson


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> I'm still struggling with my Mayhems Pastel Red turning brown with my alphacool radiators. I did a full vinegar and baking soda flush before my build but that doesn't seem help. My dual loop pastel red loop turned into a blood red within a month and is on its way to full brown. The pastel white on the other hand is still going strong. I've pretty much given up maintaining a balanced pH in my alphacool radiators. No matter how much I flush with viniger, sodium bicarb, then distilled water, it doesn't seem to help.
> 
> Thus:
> 1. will distill water + mayhems red dye + biocide turn brown under the same environment?
> 2. How does X1 red react to a environment that turns pastel red, brown?
> 3. How does X1 vs dye + distilled water compare? I know X1 is veggie extracts but what effect benefit is it over distilled water + dye + biocide?
> 4. Is Aurora 2 as susceptible to the pH as Pastel?


You are basically going to need a Blitz Pro kit. Check out Namron's Blitz guide/tutorial here: http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4944-Mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-kit

Really goes to show how bad the Alphacool radiators are in uncleanliness compared to other brands.

And here is what Geggeg had happen when he ran it through his Alphacool Monsta 480 after he had flushed and ran it with Primochill Sysprep for what I believe was a 2 month period:



You can read his entire post here: Linky


----------



## ACallander

Will the new Aurora 2 work with the Bitspower Tank Z Multi 250, Swiftech MCP655, EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Nickel + Acetal CPU Block, and two EK GeForce 670 GTX VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel CSQ?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I am in the process of switching over to rigid tubing, and I made an incredibly moronic mistake that caused my Mayhem Pastel Blood Red coolant to spill onto my MB, RAM and -- to a lesser degree -- my GPU. I had my top-mounted rad ports open without stop fittings on them, and I carelessly used my DataVac to blow dust off of the GPU backplate... upon doing so, residual red coolant spilled out and was then blown back towards the Motherboard. This is why I shouldn't pull all-nighters when rig-building
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have performed the following steps:
> 
> I removed my board and components from the chassis
> 
> - I did an initial wipe down of all visible coolant/liquid on all components
> - I then used my DataVac to blow as much of the coolant as possible from underneath the hard to reach spots (under the DIMM slots, in the PCI-e x16 slot etc...)
> - I then heavily saturated cotton swabs with isopropyl alcohol in order to lift the dried/stubborn coolant and then cleaned that. I repeated this step about 20 times everywhere that coolant could feasibly have spilled .
> - I then used my DataVac again and repeated the aforementioned cleaning method until no more red appeared on my q-tips.
> 
> My questions are as follows:
> 
> 1) Is Mayhem's pastel coolant, x1 concentrate or significantly more conductive than DI water? I suspect that the nano-particles render it more conductive, but how much more. If just distilled or DI water had spilled, I would've just blown it dry, let it sit for a day and then cranked it up, but I notice that the red coolant seems to refuse to dry completely. It sort of turns into a slick/syrupy stain that wipes easily and seems wet when I run my finger over it. Are there any specific steps I should take to clean Mayhem coolant off of my board?
> 
> 2) Obviosly my board was not connected to a power source, but my CMOS battery was still in, and some coolant ran over the top of it... should I be concerned that this caused a short?
> 
> 3) Are there any steps I should take that I haven't mentioned? Is it the case that as long as I ensure make sure my MB and component PCB's are dry I should be in the clear?
> 
> 4) I am using 70% isopropyl alcohol... should I step up to the 90% range? I have seen posts in which experienced techies recommend actually spraying the board down with 90% isopropyl and then blowing it dry and waiting 24-48 hrs. Is this safe? Is it recommended?
> 
> I know that my questions are not all Mayhem specific, but I figured that I would post here since it was dyed Pastel coolant that spilled.
> 
> I really appreciate any suggestions/advice, as I am quite concerned that when I power on my board I'm going to lose my the whole build... and then my mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Carson


In regards to #4, It is common practice to use 90% iso p to clean boards. Alcohol is often preferred over water because it will clean things up better, plus it evaporates much faster than water. Whenever I am done soldering a PCB, I will always scrub it with alcohol and a tooth brush to remove excess flux from the solder. Just scrub it down and let it dry out for day to be safe and you should be good


----------



## victorcano

can I get away with under-saturating Mayhem's Pastel ice white? I have 1 250ml bottle and planning to mix it with 1.25 liter distilled water. will that be okay? are there any drawbacks? I'm not really familiar with this coolant as previously I only used distilled water.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *victorcano*
> 
> can I get away with under-saturating Mayhem's Pastel ice white? I have 1 250ml bottle and planning to mix it with 1.25 liter distilled water. will that be okay? are there any drawbacks? I'm not really familiar with this coolant as previously I only used distilled water.


Pastel is a nano fluid, which means there are a ton of nano particles (think sand like materials, except obviously not actual sand) suspended in a liquid. It takes a very precise balance of particle density, particle size, liquid density, liquid viscosity, and a whole mess of other factors to keep the particles in suspension. Obviously it's not so sensitive to these factors that a few dozen ml of dilution will mess it up, but cutting it 50/50 with distilled water will definitely over dilute it to the point the particles would fall out of suspension. In short, it's a bad idea.







If you want a cheap but effective coolant stick to X1, it's $12 USD for a concentrate that'll make 2liters. Pastel takes more ingredients, more labor, and as a result more money. Hope that helps.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Simple flush out unless dye was used then flush till clean water comes though.


Thanks Mick.

I used a little purple and ocean blue. I think I'll just pump a gallon or two of distilled through it with a little fountain pump. Or maybe even loop it all with the filter and bucket system. Just wanted to make sure the glycol in XT1 wouldn't cause issues with X1.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Hey guys,

I'm running Mayhems pastel white in my rig (loving it) but I think I want to change it up to pastel mint green. Few questions here:

*When I drain the white out the loop back into the original bottle, can it be re-used in say 6 months?

* I'm assuming that I have to clean out all my parts before using the green liquid? The liquid is running for appr. 6 months now.
* Do I need new tubing?

* Is the problem with pastel black fixed? I read a few month back that it was turning brown.

This is my first wc-rig


----------



## victorcano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Pastel is a nano fluid, which means there are a ton of nano particles (think sand like materials, except obviously not actual sand) suspended in a liquid. It takes a very precise balance of particle density, particle size, liquid density, liquid viscosity, and a whole mess of other factors to keep the particles in suspension. Obviously it's not so sensitive to these factors that a few dozen ml of dilution will mess it up, but cutting it 50/50 with distilled water will definitely over dilute it to the point the particles would fall out of suspension. In short, it's a bad idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want a cheap but effective coolant stick to X1, it's $12 USD for a concentrate that'll make 2liters. Pastel takes more ingredients, more labor, and as a result more money. Hope that helps.


Very thorough and clear explanation. Appreciate the response man! +REP


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems, Parvum, Monsoon, EK, Gigabyte All working in harmony, just how it should be .Thank you to SpecialTech UK Water Cooling, Gigabyte UK, Parvum Systems. this is the test rig for the Monsoon silver plated fittings. we will keep you informed how they go. One of the fitting is marked several times on the inside to simulate scratching


----------



## Newtocooling

Sorry if this has already been answered in a prior post, but I'm running Mayhems Pastel Green right now without any problem no color change or anything but I'm thinking of switching to this

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40722

Is Aurora better for everyday use yet or will I run into problems if I switch?


----------



## Mayhem

If its works leave it alone is my answer


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If its works leave it alone is my answer


I'd actually be interested in an answer to this, though. Not from a performance standpoint,but you released a new generation if the Aurora, right? What sorts of changes have been made? I know that it is supposed to be useable for longer, but is it still a short term coolant? How about compatibility with bay reservoirs? Is it still a hazard if the aurora nano-particles are not in constant movement?

Thanks,

Carson


----------



## pathfindercod

From my understanding Aurora is really just for show and not 24/7 longer use.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> From my understanding Aurora is really just for show and not 24/7 longer use.


No, the new Aurora has been designed to last longer so it can be used as a 24/7 coolant.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> I'd actually be interested in an answer to this, though. Not from a performance standpoint,but you released a new generation if the Aurora, right? What sorts of changes have been made? I know that it is supposed to be useable for longer, but is it still a short term coolant? How about compatibility with bay reservoirs? Is it still a hazard if the aurora nano-particles are not in constant movement?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Carson


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> From my understanding Aurora is really just for show and not 24/7 longer use.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> No, the new Aurora has been designed to last longer so it can be used as a 24/7 coolant.






Newer Aurora has smaller particles (small enough to pass through a coffee filter), and a different fluid base making it more likely to stay in suspension. Still the same scenario for build design, single row radiators, and smaller loops are recommended. It's safe for use up to a year, but after that the surfactant will start to break down. Same conditions still apply, if you make the loop too large the particles still may fall out of suspension, but the new coolant make is definitely more likely to keep the particles in suspension than the old makeup.


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 
> Newer Aurora has smaller particles (small enough to pass through a coffee filter), and a different fluid base making it more likely to stay in suspension. Still the same scenario for build design, single row radiators, and smaller loops are recommended. It's safe for use up to a year, but after that the surfactant will start to break down. Same conditions still apply, if you make the loop too large the particles still may fall out of suspension, but the new coolant make is definitely more likely to keep the particles in suspension than the old makeup.


I see. Get hanks for the info. I have a large loop and a bay res, so it looks like a no-go for me. It's a shame, cause it looks incredible.

-Carson


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems, Parvum, Monsoon, EK, Gigabyte All working in harmony, just how it should be .Thank you to SpecialTech UK Water Cooling, Gigabyte UK, Parvum Systems. this is the test rig for the Monsoon silver plated fittings. we will keep you informed how they go. One of the fitting is marked several times on the inside to simulate scratching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ooohhhhhhhhh, shiny!


----------



## Newtocooling

My loop is a little larger as well I have the Caselabs MTH10A and two GPU's and two 480 rads on that loop so I'll just stick to the pastel too. I have to drain the loop to change a few things and add some extensions to go push pull on my fans and was just thinking about changing things up a little. Thanks for the info.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> My loop is a little larger as well I have the Caselabs MTH10A and two GPU's and two 480 rads on that loop so I'll just stick to the pastel too. I have to drain the loop to change a few things and add some extensions to go push pull on my fans and was just thinking about changing things up a little. Thanks for the info.


The length of the radiator doesn't matter as much as it's thickness, or more importantly it's number of rows. If I recall correctly the primary issues with aurora vs radiators is the protrusion of lanes into the chambers. The lanes protrude into the chambers giving deadzones where particles can get caught in, taking them out of suspension. More rows means more protruding chambers, more protruding chambers means more deadzones.


----------



## Mayhem

ZytheEKS is correct and this is one of the major issues with Aurora how ever were trying to fix this with the fluids and we've been tweaking the formula even more to combat this issue.


----------



## Newtocooling

I have the Alphacool UT60 so they are pretty thick but the FPI isn't that bad, but they are very clean thanks to the Mayhems Blitz Kit









I'll just stay on the safe side and stick to the pastel, I"m just bummed that I have to drain the loop and thought changing the coolant might cheer me up, The Aurora green had a more emerald color that I wanted to go for, but I can just add dye again no big deal.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I have the Alphacool UT60 so they are pretty thick but the FPI isn't that bad, but they are very clean thanks to the Mayhems Blitz Kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just stay on the safe side and stick to the pastel, I"m just bummed that I have to drain the loop and thought changing the coolant might cheer me up, The Aurora green had a more emerald color that I wanted to go for, but I can just add dye again no big deal.


Just for the record/your own knowledge the UT60 is triple row.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> ZytheEKS is correct and this is one of the major issues with Aurora how ever were trying to fix this with the fluids and we've been tweaking the formula even more to combat this issue.


Would adding more pylons help?


----------



## QAKE

Here is some blood red dye from mayhem in my finished build!


----------



## Mayhem

Independent testing has been done on the rads ................. Oh im sooo happy they verified what i saw (we don't just beat the competition we slaughter it)..... were taking it to the next level now ....

More news will come at a later date ... Mahahahahahahahaha


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nice, can't wait to see or even use a mayhems rad. Rinsed off an reflushed used rads with distilled ( didn't see signs of build up in the rads that were used in the original loop) plan to have the rig up and running today and will check ph after a 24hr run with just distilled and kill coil. (rads are 240 Swiftech and a Black Ice Gt xflow, took out the 120 Swiftech)


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Independent testing has been done on the rads ................. Oh im sooo happy they verified what i saw (we don't just beat the competition we slaughter it)..... were taking it to the next level now ....
> 
> More news will come at a later date ... Mahahahahahahahaha


Good stuff









Hey Mick, want to make a special 600mm (5x120) rad for me? I actually have a case that can fit two of them without problems


----------



## OCP

Is this the newest Aurora 2? I'm not sure because the website I bought it from says its Aurora 2 but it doesn't say on the bottle?


----------



## gdubc

Yep, looks like the new stuff to me. See the little blue bubble toward the bottom that says "new improved"?


----------



## OCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Yep, looks like the new stuff to me. See the little blue bubble toward the bottom that says "new improved"?


Cheers for pointing that out to me. I read some previous posts and there were some pictures that actually says 'Aurora 2'? Is this the same?


----------



## Mayhem

Ye it is A2 we renamed the label just to help people out.


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I wouldn't add ANYTHING to pastel except dye. Pastel has all the anti-corrosives you'll need to protect nickle from corroding, as well as all the surfactants and biocides you'll need to keep your loop shiney and working well. If you were using aluminum or something extreme like that I'd grab some XT-1, but nickle is pretty light when talking about electrode potential differences.
> 
> With less technical speak, and more newbie friendly dialect: Pastel is fine as is; no additional corrosion inhibitors need to be, nor should be, added to it.


ZytheEKS,

I just came across this post and wondered if you could clarify why it is bad too add X1 to Pastel. In his online tutorial here : http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/blood-red.html#.U8UbUZK9KK1 , Mayhem (Mick is it?) instructs that 100ml of X1 concentrate be added to 125ml Pastel white and 750ml of DI water (along with a little over 10ml of dye).

Is it because less than 250ml of Pastel were used that the X1 is also added? Any ideas on why the standard mixing ratio of 250ml pastel to 750ml DI water was not used?

Thanks for any clarification/info,

Carson


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ye it is A2 we renamed the label just to help people out.


I'm close to finish my build with acrylic tubing and i want to know if the issues that the silver parts of aurora drops and stick in tubing are fixed with new aurora 2???

Changing acrylic tubing takes a lot of time so i wanna be sure that in aurora 2 the silver parts will no stick in tube because the first aurora (silver parts) was stinking in the primochill advance lrt tube.


----------



## stickg1

There's a bit of uncertainty with Aurora because of the infinite amounts of configurations of a loop so there isn't a way to say, "Yes, you will have absolutely no problems."

Honestly I feel if you're concerned about potential maintenance with Aurora you would be better off with a low maintenance coolant like a X1 or Pastel. Just my opinion.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's the reason why I'm just going distilled with dye







too many variables to cause issues.


----------



## pompss

It's there some particular condition that cause the aurora silver cell to drop and stick?? ph??


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh static .... We cannot answer you question because literally as stated its impossible to tell. we only advise to keep the loop simple and you'll have no problems. Using hard tubing well thats not a simple process.


----------



## Mayhem

thats vid was made a while back and needs updating how ever time is something we do not have esp atm.


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> thats vid was made a while back and needs updating how ever time is something we do not have esp atm.


I just mixed a blood red pastel and filled my loop with it according to the guide. Is the mix of x1, pastel, red dye and DI water going to be detrimental in any way? Should I drain my loop?

Thanks,

Carson


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> ZytheEKS,
> 
> I just came across this post and wondered if you could clarify why it is bad too add X1 to Pastel. In his online tutorial here : http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/blood-red.html#.U8UbUZK9KK1 , Mayhem (Mick is it?) instructs that 100ml of X1 concentrate be added to 125ml Pastel white and 750ml of DI water (along with a little over 10ml of dye).
> 
> Is it because less than 250ml of Pastel were used that the X1 is also added? Any ideas on why the standard mixing ratio of 250ml pastel to 750ml DI water was not used?
> 
> Thanks for any clarification/info,
> 
> Carson


Assuming nothing serious has been changed in the formulas the only thing it /should/ do is have stronger corrosion inhibitors, as well as cause the particles to fall out of suspension sooner. It shouldn't cause any serious issues with the loop, but I wouldn't leave it in as long as I would Pastel. X1 is rated for 1-2 years in a loop, while pastel is rated for 2-3. There's a reason they have life spans, the surfactants, anti corrosives, etc. can start to break down, so I'd plan on maintenance according to X1s life span if you mixed them. Again, the only adverse effects I can foresee is the nano-particles being more prone to falling out of suspension, which is rarely an issue pastel users face so it shouldn't be a huge issue. My point with saying don't mix things with pastel is there is literally no point. Unless you're trying to use aluminum or something crazy like that pastel has good enough corrosion inhibitors.


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Assuming nothing serious has been changed in the formulas the only thing it /should/ do is have stronger corrosion inhibitors, as well as cause the particles to fall out of suspension sooner. It shouldn't cause any serious issues with the loop, but I wouldn't leave it in as long as I would Pastel. X1 is rated for 1-2 years in a loop, while pastel is rated for 2-3. There's a reason they have life spans, the surfactants, anti corrosives, etc. can start to break down, so I'd plan on maintenance according to X1s life span if you mixed them. Again, the only adverse effects I can foresee is the nano-particles being more prone to falling out of suspension, which is rarely an issue pastel users face so it shouldn't be a huge issue. My point with saying don't mix things with pastel is there is literally no point. Unless you're trying to use aluminum or something crazy like that pastel has good enough corrosion inhibitors.


I see. Thanks for the response. I usually perform maintenance within a year... well I should say that I usually get bored and tear it down because I want to add new stuff







. It's good to know that in the future I can just go with the Pastel, some DI and dye, as it'll be easier on the wallet. Thanks again!

Carson


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh static .... We cannot answer you question because literally as stated its impossible to tell. we only advise to keep the loop simple and you'll have no problems. Using hard tubing well thats not a simple process.


So aurora 2 is a no go with rigid tubing?


----------



## Blackops_2

I would think aurora 2 is gtg with rigid tubing, looking at james Titanfall build.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Has anyone had an issue like this with the mayhems pastel uv white ?
i am a bit confused since the same tubing/ different mayhems pastel did not cause this effect.


Spoiler: pictures


----------



## Mayhem

Thats primochill tubing its not the dye or the liquid that caused that. We've seen it many times on different liquids.


----------



## VSG

Ya, looks like the same old turning yellow thing.


----------



## Newtocooling

I have to drain both of my loops for a few things I want to change. I have Pastel Green in one, and X-1 Oil Black in the other no problems with either coolant both are the same color as when they went in.







Both are only about one month old, so is it ok to reuse them, or is it better to just put in new coolant to be on the safe side?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I have to drain both of my loops for a few things I want to change. I have Pastel Green in one, and X-1 Oil Black in the other no problems with either coolant both are the same color as when they went in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both are only about one month old, so is it ok to reuse them, or is it better to just put in new coolant to be on the safe side?


Just run them through a coffee filter and you should be able to re-use.


----------



## pompss

Any issues with pastel white uv and acrylic tubing ???
Just asking to be sure !!!!


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Thats primochill tubing its not the dye or the liquid that caused that. We've seen it many times on different liquids.


I am trying to figure out exactly was the cause, or close to the cause.

I ran pastel red for ~1-2months with the same UV lights on, didn't have this problem
I ran the pastel uv white for ~1 month and suddenly the tubing started to do this.

it's definitely a bummer, i just dont understand if it was simply the uv that did this to the plastic, may have just been a coincidence that the threshold the plastic could resist the uv was before i switched coolants?
i asked about the pastel/coolant because i've used the same tubing in the past with the mayhems x1 uv green for almost ~6months and never had issue with the tubing


----------



## VSG

When you were benching, the loop temps went above 30-35 C right? That seems to be the going theory at the moment as to why Advanced LRT is turning yellow. It fits in with everyone who has seen this as well.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> When you were benching, the loop temps went above 30-35 C right? That seems to be the going theory at the moment as to why Advanced LRT is turning yellow. It fits in with everyone who has seen this as well.


yes it did actually.. 35C was the highest water temp measured by temp sensor on radiator

I am wondering about the uv lights though because the yellow on tubing is only where the lights are directly located

seems my res took a little bit of staining too







i dont think i would drain to clean and put in new tubing. just really unhappy with the yellow clouding that white coolant


----------



## Mayhem

Been Nijaed @geggeg is correct we seen it change colour mainly on our Mining rigs. The gaming rigs dont seem to affect the tubing but the mining rigs all have had the colour change on the tubing no matter what fluid we use.


----------



## pompss

one question to clean up my tubing before adding pastel.
How much benching soda in one gallon or liter ??
And what is the correct ph i should have before adding pastel???
Thanks


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Been Nijaed @geggeg is correct we seen it change colour mainly on our Mining rigs. The gaming rigs dont seem to affect the tubing but the mining rigs all have had the colour change on the tubing no matter what fluid we use.


the temperature theory geggeg mentioned I did not know of, but as I said I am confused on how the problem only happened after switching to white!

i am thinking the UV light + water temperature created this effect on the tubing, but still leaves me clueless why the same setup didnt do this with red coolant









this must be a sign! it's time for me to sell all my fittings and spend another $300 on fittings to go for acrylic tubing


----------



## Mayhem

PH Between 6.8 to 8.1 is normally oky but 7.4 is perfect but not necessary. I used to use 1 tablespoon per 1 ltr of bicarbonate of soda.


----------



## VSG

Yes, do it


----------



## Mayhem

yes spend more money







 this hobbys is just a black hole in your pocket. money goes in ... blocks and fitting come out .....


----------



## Ovrclck

I didn't know Microcenters here in the US stocked Mayhems. My local one had a couple pastels and auroras in stock. :applaudes:

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> yes spend more money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this hobbys is just a black hole in your pocket. money goes in ... blocks and fitting come out .....


it's no hobby







if i don't buy these things my computer will leave me























Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, do it


if only the acrylic tubing and fittings didn't cost another arm and a leg


----------



## VSG

There's a guy in the marketplace selling a bunch of Bitspower hardline fittings at a good price.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There's a guy in the marketplace selling a bunch of Bitspower hardline fittings at a good price.


i'm a overpay and buy it brand new then sell it dirt cheap used kind of guy









i've been looking at acrylic tube bending videos, i'm going to have to think about this one. i wanted to not touch this rig until I built a new rig. I sort of regret buying the 900D and spending so much on fittings for regular tubing knowing I could of got a barebones caselabs for a bit more


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> i'm a overpay and buy it brand new then sell it dirt cheap used kind of guy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i've been looking at acrylic tube bending videos, i'm going to have to think about this one. i wanted to not touch this rig until I built a new rig. I sort of regret buying the 900D and spending so much on fittings for regular tubing knowing I could of got a barebones caselabs for a bit more


Welcome to the club! I have an unopened Corsair Air 540 case with unused Bitspower compression fittings that I bought over a year ago. This was right before the popularity of acrylic tubing blew up and so they have been sitting in the corner of my office collecting dust.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> i'm a overpay and buy it brand new then sell it dirt cheap used kind of guy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i've been looking at acrylic tube bending videos, i'm going to have to think about this one. i wanted to not touch this rig until I built a new rig. I sort of regret buying the 900D and spending so much on fittings for regular tubing knowing I could of got a barebones caselabs for a bit more


The 900D can be a curse, I have dumped so much money on mine it's not funny!!

Acrylic is awesome and honestly after getting the hang of bending I'm not going to go back to regular tubing ever!!!! Enough so that I'm trying to get a buddy to switch but he insists in the need to use fittings instead of bends. I will have to take him to bending university


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> yes spend more money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this hobbys is just a black hole in your pocket. money goes in ... blocks and fitting come out .....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> it's no hobby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if i don't buy these things my computer will leave me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if only the acrylic tubing and fittings didn't cost another arm and a leg


This hobby in a nutshell


----------



## DarthBaggins

yup tell me about it just blew more money on more fittings, couplers, and drive components that I didnt really plan to but how I routed my loop had to, but it was totally worth it.









And I should know tomorrow evening what my PH is at so I know whether I can add the dye to my loop (Mayhems red)


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> yup tell me about it just blew more money on more fittings, couplers, and drive components that I didnt really plan to but how I routed my loop had to, but it was totally worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I should know tomorrow evening what my PH is at so I know whether I can add the dye to my loop (Mayhems red)


i bet we've all said this before

"ok this is all i need to complete this build"

"after this i wont buy any more"

LOL


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ye it is A2 we renamed the label just to help people out.


Hey Mick,

I need your confirmation on this.

I purchased 3 bottles of Supernova and 3 bottles of Tharsis Red concentrate from PPCS on May 12th. I emailed them to asking if it was the new formula and they replied:



Here below is the bottles I received. Only the Supernova (left) has the little "'New Improved" bubble. Tharsis Red (right) doesn't have the bubble, so I assume they must have instead sent me the old Tharsis Red formula?
If so, I really need to have this exchanged as I'm almost ready to fill my loops.


----------



## SavellM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Any issues with pastel white uv and acrylic tubing ???
> Just asking to be sure !!!!


No issues in my build








Been going for on and off 8 months or so


----------



## The EX1

I wonder if Part 2 of the Blitz kit also helps clean up new radiators. Anyone know? From what I read on the bottle, it just seems like a biocide on steroids rather than an all purpose cleaner.


----------



## VSG

It is definitely a cleaner as well, look at the Blitz Basic cleaning kit- it only has Part 2.


----------



## The EX1

Ya I know, that is actually the kit I purchased. Part two is running in my system currently. Crossing my fingers that it cleans up my alphacool UT60. Part 1 was sold out when I purchased







. On the bottle is states it works well on slime, silt, and detritus. All things pointing towards algae and bacteria. That is why I was asking. Unless flux and solder are considering silt haha.


----------



## VSG

Honestly, Part 2 might not be enough for that UT60.


----------



## The EX1

That is what I was afraid of. My clear X1 coolant went murky after running it for a week. We'll see how she does I guess. Damn alphacools


----------



## VSG

You've seen my picture of Part 1 with the Alphacool and Phobya rads, right?



Those are some dirty rads all right!


----------



## The EX1

I stumbled across that picture once or twice haha. I will post up what my Part 2 looks like after running it for 24 hours. Any idea what the cleaning agent in Part two consists of?


----------



## VSG

See posts below from Mick answering the same question I had earlier:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The main chemical in Part 2 is Alkyldimethylbenzyl amm. chloride with none ionic surfactants and other non destructive cleaners.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> were using a blend of Quaternary Ammonium Compound using a long alkyl chain. I do not want to go into to much details as some companies like to copy and if we make there life to easy they would just copy what were doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im not a chemical engineer but feel like one haha.


----------



## The EX1

thanks +rep


----------



## VSG

No worries


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ye it is A2 we renamed the label just to help people out.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Mick,
> 
> I need your confirmation on this.
> 
> I purchased 3 bottles of Supernova and 3 bottles of Tharsis Red concentrate from PPCS on May 12th. I emailed them to asking if it was the new formula and they replied:
> 
> 
> 
> Here below is the bottles I received. Only the Supernova (left) has the little "'New Improved" bubble. Tharsis Red (right) doesn't have the bubble, so I assume they must have instead sent me the old Tharsis Red formula?
> If so, I really need to have this exchanged as I'm almost ready to fill my loops.
Click to expand...

Buehlar Send me a Photo of all 3 bottles please and your full name, address and telephone number and ill replace what ever needs replacing. Its not PPCs fault they are using up what stock they have and maybe a bottle some how got mixed in.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ye it is A2 we renamed the label just to help people out.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Mick,
> 
> I need your confirmation on this.
> 
> I purchased 3 bottles of Supernova and 3 bottles of Tharsis Red concentrate from PPCS on May 12th. I emailed them to asking if it was the new formula and they replied:
> 
> 
> 
> Here below is the bottles I received. Only the Supernova (left) has the little "'New Improved" bubble. Tharsis Red (right) doesn't have the bubble, so I assume they must have instead sent me the old Tharsis Red formula?
> If so, I really need to have this exchanged as I'm almost ready to fill my loops.
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Buehlar Send me a Photo of all 3 bottles please and your full name, address and telephone number and ill replace what ever needs replacing. Its not PPCs fault they are using up what stock they have and maybe a bottle some how got mixed in.
Click to expand...

Wow Mick!

Man...I can't thank you enough for support of your products and taking care of the community as a whole...top notched!









PM sent!

+Rep


----------



## Vercanti

Ok... I need to get something off my chest.... *inhales deeply*....

I LOVE MY MAYHEMS PASTEL UV WHITE

There... I said it... I feel a lot better!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Wow Mick!
> 
> Man...I can't thank you enough for support of your products and taking care of the community as a whole...top notched!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PM sent!
> 
> +Rep


Ya I have become a convert myself after seeing the way Mick takes care of customers. Top notch stuff. Heck, shipping 1-3 bottles to the US likely costs more than the cost of the bottles themselves.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vercanti*
> 
> Ok... I need to get something off my chest.... *inhales deeply*....
> 
> I LOVE MY MAYHEMS PASTEL UV WHITE
> 
> There... I said it... I feel a lot better!


This isn't a support group, you only just joined the addicts now


----------



## luciddreamer124

I shot an email to PPC's and they said they have NOT yet received Aurora 2 coolants yet.


----------



## Mayhem

Oky after today's meeting take a deep breath ..........

Mayhems Rads ....

We have moved into full production and we will have stock soon.

We are making 360mm and 240 mm rads at 60 mm thickness. They will have our new logo on to.

Thats all for now ...

..... Do they cool well ... mahahahahahahahahaha does a bear poo in the woods .....


----------



## VSG

Congrats!

Has pricing been set yet?


----------



## Mayhem

Pricing is a bit up in the air but they wont be the cheapest rads on the market due to them not being made by kids in a sweat shop with whips and chains and us using decent copper







Also due to the complexity of the internals of the rad they all have to be hand made. We have no interest in producing for the lower end of the market we wish to improve all over performance not diminish it







to "oh that's good looking" ....

They will all come with mini blitz kits as well.


----------



## VSG

Why mini Blitz if they are going to be cleaned as it is? For the rest of the loop?

I might try out a 240 or 360 actually, especially if that Haswell-E octacore is going to get real hot. It would be fun to put in a Mayhems and an Alphacool rad in the same loop for irony. Got plenty of room in the front for a bunch of 240/360s anyway:


----------



## MrBlunt

:thumb:


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> *Why mini Blitz if they are going to be cleaned as it is? For the rest of the loop?*
> 
> I might try out a 240 or 360 actually, especially if that Haswell-E octacore is going to get real hot. It would be fun to put in a Mayhems and an Alphacool rad in the same loop for irony. Got plenty of room in the front for a bunch of 240/360s anyway:


I would imagine it's just part 2, to clean the loop and prime the pH so when you fill it there isn't any, how should we say, anomalies. That's just speculation though. All the intel crowd is getting all these new chips and I'm just sitting looking at my Crosshair-V Z AM3+ :C Come on AMD, we need a new high end CPU.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky after today's meeting take a deep breath ..........
> 
> Mayhems Rads ....
> 
> We have moved into full production and we will have stock soon.
> 
> We are making 360mm and 240 mm rads at 60 mm thickness. They will have our new logo on to.
> 
> Thats all for now ...
> 
> ..... Do they cool well ... mahahahahahahahahaha does a bear poo in the woods .....


this post better be edited









make 480mm rads or


----------



## Mayhem

No it will be part 1 and part 2. There will be enough part 1 to fully clean the rad you buy and then part 2 to finish off your loop and rad. We want it this way so that we know that it will work they way wish for it to work with no compromise. The rads will be sonic cleaned before sale but this is our back up plan







...

We wont be making any 480 rads for the public sorry.

Mick


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No it will be part 1 and part 2. *There will be enough part 1 to fully clean the rad you buy* and then part 2 to finish off your loop and rad. We want it this way so that we know that it will work they way wish for it to work with no compromise. The rads will be sonic cleaned before sale but this is our back up plan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Mick


So is that an excuse for shipping 'em dirty now?









Seriously though- I think this is a good idea. No one can predict what happens during shipping and in customs. But this will also mean a bigger hassle getting the rad cleared through customs, right?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky after today's meeting take a deep breath ..........
> 
> Mayhems Rads ....
> 
> We have moved into full production and we will have stock soon.
> 
> We are making 360mm and 240 mm rads at 60 mm thickness. They will have our new logo on to.
> 
> Thats all for now ...
> 
> ..... Do they cool well ... mahahahahahahahahaha does a bear poo in the woods .....


Can I go ahead and get 3 360s reserved for me? Pleeeeeeeeeease























Almost time to finish off my WIP's loop which needs 3 of em.

And just cause:


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky after today's meeting take a deep breath ..........
> 
> Mayhems Rads ....
> 
> We have moved into full production and we will have stock soon.
> 
> We are making 360mm and 240 mm rads at 60 mm thickness. They will have our new logo on to.
> 
> Thats all for now ...
> 
> ..... Do they cool well ... mahahahahahahahahaha does a bear poo in the woods .....


Great news indeed Mick







..... I know how long & hard you have worked to do this as well as producing your second to none fluids. I for one will be happy when these rads hit the shelves as I will most certainly be buying one or two as I know they will be amongst the best out there knowing how hard you have worked to get to this point... Well done mate & congrats














...

N. (Namron)


----------



## Vercanti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pricing is a bit up in the air but they wont be the cheapest rads on the market due to them not being made by kids in a sweat shop with whips and chains and us using decent copper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also due to the complexity of the internals of the rad they all have to be hand made. We have no interest in producing for the lower end of the market we wish to improve all over performance not diminish it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to "oh that's good looking" ....
> 
> They will all come with mini blitz kits as well.


All right! I was actually in the market looking to replace my 64mm radiator with a 60mm!... There goes my next paycheck!


----------



## DarthBaggins

We'll let my rig run for 48hrs and tested my pH, according to the strip I'm at 6.8-7.0, so I added a few drops of my red dye, plan to adda few drops of a lighter blue and see if I get the purple I'm looking for:


----------



## indiyet

I feel disappointed, buy a Mayhems X1 Red Dye for my new loop to get this color exactly:

and the result after add 45 drops into distilled water is this:

First i start adding 5 drops at time... never had the look as the color of the first pic, add more and that was the result.
Here a pic of the bottle dye:

The left dye of the pic was buyed in 2012 (not used this time) the right dye of the pic is the one i used now..
The color of the top of the dye is a strong red and the color obtained is a blood red..








Is the same dye renamed?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *indiyet*
> 
> I feel disappointed, buy a Mayhems X1 Red Dye for my new loop to get this color exactly:
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2102926/width/350/height/700[/IMG]
> and the result after add 45 drops into distilled water is this:
> 
> First i start adding 5 drops at time... never had the look as the color of the first pic, add more and that was the result.
> Here a pic of the bottle dye:
> 
> 
> 
> The left dye of the pic was buyed in 2012 (not used this time) the right dye of the pic is the one i used now..
> The color of the top of the dye is a strong red and the color obtained is a blood red..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the same dye renamed?


What is the lighting like in the pictures taken? It's possible the darker color is caused by a lack of white light. Blood red is attained with red AND blue dye. A slight amount of blue dye darkens it. Just red dye should never give you blood red colored coolant. If this is the case merely adding some cathodes or some LEDs may give you the desired color.


----------



## BioDefault

I'm torn between Sunset Yellow (pastel) and Namron Yellow (Aurora).

*Sunset Yellow:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24283/ex-liq-381/Mayhems_Pastel_Coolant_Premix_-_1L_-_Sunset_Yellow.html

*Namron Yellow:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24284/ex-liq-393/Mayhems_Aurora_Coolant_Premix_-_1L_-_Namron_Yellow.html

The Sunset Yellow is a more solid yellow, while Namron Yellow is a fairly solid yellow with swirls in it.

I honestly don't know which one to get... Can you guys help me out here?


----------



## Vercanti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BioDefault*
> 
> I'm torn between Sunset Yellow (pastel) and Namron Yellow (Aurora).
> 
> *Sunset Yellow:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24283/ex-liq-381/Mayhems_Pastel_Coolant_Premix_-_1L_-_Sunset_Yellow.html
> 
> *Namron Yellow:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24284/ex-liq-393/Mayhems_Aurora_Coolant_Premix_-_1L_-_Namron_Yellow.html
> 
> The Sunset Yellow is a more solid yellow, while Namron Yellow is a fairly solid yellow with swirls in it.
> 
> I honestly don't know which one to get... Can you guys help me out here?


Well, unless I'm mistaken the Aurora is only for show and not meant to be in Home systems.

So, if it's just for SHOW, go with the Aurora! If not... The pastel yellow is pretty legit!


----------



## Mayhem

@indiyet The picture is for show and is taken in a brightly lit environment. Your case is black with no white lighting.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No it will be part 1 and part 2. *There will be enough part 1 to fully clean the rad you buy* and then part 2 to finish off your loop and rad. We want it this way so that we know that it will work they way wish for it to work with no compromise. The rads will be sonic cleaned before sale but this is our back up plan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Mick
> 
> 
> 
> So is that an excuse for shipping 'em dirty now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously though- I think this is a good idea. No one can predict what happens during shipping and in customs. But this will also mean a bigger hassle getting the rad cleared through customs, right?
Click to expand...

Well in the EU there will be no issues, we will need to see what we can do for the USA as that is a little harder to do, but not impossible.


----------



## BioDefault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vercanti*
> 
> Well, unless I'm mistaken the Aurora is only for show and not meant to be in Home systems.
> 
> So, if it's just for SHOW, go with the Aurora! If not... The pastel yellow is pretty legit!


*Mayhem's Aurora Wiki and Guide:
*
"Aurora is "NOT" made for use in a home system. It has been developed for show System's (modding) and Photo work. If looking for a fluid for a Home system / Gaming system please use Mayhems X1 or Mayhems Pastel range of fluids there are fully tested and working in any kind of loop."

*sigh*
That's quite depressing. I'm going to be getting a drive bay res, and the aurora would look amazing in it.

Whelp, I guess I'll be getting Sunset Yellow then...


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BioDefault*
> 
> *Mayhem's Aurora Wiki and Guide:
> *
> "Aurora is "NOT" made for use in a home system. It has been developed for show System's (modding) and Photo work. If looking for a fluid for a Home system / Gaming system please use Mayhems X1 or Mayhems Pastel range of fluids there are fully tested and working in any kind of loop."
> 
> *sigh*
> That's quite depressing. I'm going to be getting a drive bay res, and the aurora would look amazing in it.
> 
> Whelp, I guess I'll be getting Sunset Yellow then...


I thought the New Aurora 2 was better for long term use than the original!! Although not sure what colours are available in the New Aurora 2?.......

N.


----------



## Vercanti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> I thought the New Aurora 2 was better for long term use than the original!! Although not sure what colours are available in the New Aurora 2?.......
> 
> N.


I know that with the Aurora, after a couple days of constant flow, the compounds that make Aurora shiny and beautiful begin to seperate and loose it's effect in about a week or so.

So having Aurora for show in a model; even though it's not constantly flowing, still doesn't last too long. The Aurora 2 lasting longer just means more time looking awesome and more time between loop flushes! Which is a plus.. Especially if you're the guy who has to do it!

But hey, I could be wrong!


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's the same red dye I used in my loop, but I only did 6-9 drops to get to the COLOR I'm at, and I know lighting has a lot to do with its tint/shade but that COLOR has grown on me over night.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *indiyet*
> 
> I feel disappointed, buy a Mayhems X1 Red Dye for my new loop to get this color exactly:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the result after add 45 drops into distilled water is this:
> 
> First i start adding 5 drops at time... never had the look as the color of the first pic, add more and that was the result.
> Here a pic of the bottle dye:
> 
> 
> 
> The left dye of the pic was buyed in 2012 (not used this time) the right dye of the pic is the one i used now..
> The color of the top of the dye is a strong red and the color obtained is a blood red..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the same dye renamed?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> What is the lighting like in the pictures taken? It's possible the darker color is caused by a lack of white light. Blood red is attained with red AND blue dye. A slight amount of blue dye darkens it. Just red dye should never give you blood red colored coolant. If this is the case merely adding some cathodes or some LEDs may give you the desired color.


I agree with ZytheEKS in that you definitely need more white light in there. Color (in everything) is very dependent on light, specifically white light. Think about how different most things look between day time and night time. He is also right about needing blue if you are going for blood red color.

I'd second putting in some white cathodes or LEDs.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BioDefault*
> 
> *Mayhem's Aurora Wiki and Guide:
> *
> "Aurora is "NOT" made for use in a home system. It has been developed for show System's (modding) and Photo work. If looking for a fluid for a Home system / Gaming system please use Mayhems X1 or Mayhems Pastel range of fluids there are fully tested and working in any kind of loop."
> 
> *sigh*
> That's quite depressing. I'm going to be getting a drive bay res, and the aurora would look amazing in it.
> 
> Whelp, I guess I'll be getting Sunset Yellow then...


Its been mentioned many times already, but Aurora 2 is currently available in red, blue and silver. You can dye it to any color you want. Its still not recommended to be used in a complex loop with dead zones where the particle can fall out of suspension, so that drive bay res might not work with aurora 2.


----------



## Mayhem

Oky we are currently testing aurora 2 in a complex system consisting of

Chip set block, gpu block, Cpu block, quad pass 320mm rad and a Monsoon Bay res.

The test has been going on for about 2 months (on, off, standing ect ect) how ever we will still not confirm any thing till tests are complete. We do say it is better than version 1 how ever we will not say any thing other than that until we have fully confirmed it in such a complex loop. Its still a pain in the ass to clean out but blitz part 2 will do it relay quickly. Yes it takes a hell of a lot longer to fall out and we have reduced it to 3 colors as they are the best selling colour and other colours are easy to make up with dyes.

Mick


----------



## Vercanti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky we are currently testing aurora 2 in a complex system consisting of
> 
> Chip set block, gpu block, Cpu block, quad pass 320mm rad and a Monsoon Bay res.
> 
> The test has been going on for about 2 months (on, off, standing ect ect) how ever we will still not confirm any thing till tests are complete. We do say it is better than version 1 how ever we will not say any thing other than that until we have fully confirmed it in such a complex loop. Its still a pain in the ass to clean out but blitz part 2 will do it relay quickly. Yes it takes a hell of a lot longer to fall out and we have reduced it to 3 colors as they are the best selling colour and other colours are easy to make up with dyes.
> 
> Mick


I have faith in you guys!! You can do it!


----------



## indiyet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> What is the lighting like in the pictures taken? It's possible the darker color is caused by a lack of white light. Blood red is attained with red AND blue dye. A slight amount of blue dye darkens it. Just red dye should never give you blood red colored coolant. If this is the case merely adding some cathodes or some LEDs may give you the desired color.


The lights are "normal" in the pics. Will take more pics in the outside in the sun for comprare it, but can assure you that is not big change.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @indiyet The picture is for show and is taken in a brightly lit environment. Your case is black with no white lighting.


I realize that now, the dye should have bought then to achieve the same color was the Corsair fanes is the Pastel Red, right? . Anyway stay "satisfied" for now since the colour obtained creates a balance between the reservoir (red blood) and the rest of the MOD. My question now is: what happens if i drop more dye in the system? Considering that already have 45 droplets.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That's the same red dye I used in my loop, but I only did 6-9 drops to get to the COLOR I'm at, and I know lighting has a lot to do with its tint/shade but that COLOR has grown on me over night.


can you upload pics of that loop¿?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I agree with ZytheEKS in that you definitely need more white light in there. Color (in everything) is very dependent on light, specifically white light. Think about how different most things look between day time and night time. He is also right about needing blue if you are going for blood red color.
> 
> I'd second putting in some white cathodes or LEDs.


Already have a white led in my system, but i used in the backplate of the gpu, will try that later.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> We'll let my rig run for 48hrs and tested my pH, according to the strip I'm at 6.8-7.0, so I added a few drops of my red dye, plan to adda few drops of a lighter blue and see if I get the purple I'm looking for:


Here's how the red looked in mine I need to take some shots with my dslr and better lighting (used my Nokia 925's camera to take that photo)


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky we are currently testing aurora 2 in a complex system consisting of
> 
> Chip set block, gpu block, Cpu block, quad pass 320mm rad and a Monsoon Bay res.
> 
> The test has been going on for about 2 months (on, off, standing ect ect) how ever we will still not confirm any thing till tests are complete. We do say it is better than version 1 how ever we will not say any thing other than that until we have fully confirmed it in such a complex loop. Its still a pain in the ass to clean out but blitz part 2 will do it relay quickly. Yes it takes a hell of a lot longer to fall out and we have reduced it to 3 colors as they are the best selling colour and other colours are easy to make up with dyes.
> 
> Mick


I bought x1 red uv for my acrylic tube from frozen cpu.
After installing the tube and adding the coolant its really disappointed.

With 23 inch led strip uv light around the case and 4 x7 led uv there is no uv effect whatsoever. NADA !!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky we are currently testing aurora 2 in a complex system consisting of
> 
> Chip set block, gpu block, Cpu block, quad pass 320mm rad and a Monsoon Bay res.
> 
> The test has been going on for about 2 months (on, off, standing ect ect) how ever we will still not confirm any thing till tests are complete. We do say it is better than version 1 how ever we will not say any thing other than that until we have fully confirmed it in such a complex loop. Its still a pain in the ass to clean out but blitz part 2 will do it relay quickly. Yes it takes a hell of a lot longer to fall out and we have reduced it to 3 colors as they are the best selling colour and other colours are easy to make up with dyes.
> 
> Mick
> 
> 
> 
> I bought x1 red uv for my acrylic tube from frozen cpu.
> After installing the tube and adding the coolant its really disappointed.
> 
> With 23 inch led strip uv light around the case and 4 x7 led uv there is no uv effect whatsoever. NADA !!!
> 
> Im one loyal customer and i bought always mayhem's product like aurora ,x1 green uv and pastel but its not fair advertising something as uv and its just water with red dye.
> I can't return it because i opened so i want to know what we can do about this.
Click to expand...

Expecting any kind of decent UV effect using LED's is generally a mistake.

I've seen countless posts where guys were disappointed with their UV effect with LED sources, but the ones with well placed cathodes were much more often, pretty well satisfied.

Granted that some coolants are better than others in their UV sensitivity, but even the most sensitive isn't going to deliver with Led sourced UV, what it will with cathodes.

It's just kind of the trade-off for a simpler installation . .

Darlene


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Expecting any kind of decent UV effect using LED's is generally a mistake.
> 
> I've seen countless posts where guys were disappointed with their UV effect with LED sources, but the ones with well placed cathodes were much more often, pretty well satisfied.
> 
> Granted that some coolants are better than others in their UV sensitivity, but even the most sensitive isn't going to deliver with Led sourced UV, what it will with cathodes.
> 
> It's just kind of the trade-off for a simpler installation . .
> 
> Darlene


There is no uv effect at ALL.
I tested with cathodes too and no uv effect either. ZERO !!!!


----------



## Mayhem

I got a Pm from Pompss we will be sending him out some UV pink once we have his details.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I got a Pm from Pompss we will be sending him out some UV pink once we have his details.


Thanks Mick Really appreciate.
If you could sent me aurora 2 instead because i don't like the pink.


----------



## Mayhem

Im afraid we wont swap a dye for aurora . you asked for UV red and UV pink is what makes UV red uv active o we will be sending you our UV pink. If you wish to pay the difference in shipping and allo upgrading to Aurora 2 then we can sort that out how ever it will cost more to send and there is a increase in price between our dyes and aurora 2. .


----------



## pompss

Why I have to pay the difference in shipping as the UV pink its 1 liter same weight as the aurora 2?? Also I bought red UV 1 liter no pink UV and I don't wanna pink color when the UV lights are off.I didn't see the problem to swap as its the same weight


----------



## pompss

If you can't do it no problem but I didn't buy pink I buy red and if I knew that the red UV its crap I would bought aurora 2 which is the same price and weight


----------



## DarthBaggins

You mix the pink w/ your current red it should add the UV reaction you are looking for and still getting the red you want


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> You mix the pink w/ your current red it should add the UV reaction you are looking for and still getting the red you want


Ummm...I really don't think he quite understands the science behind how the uv pink is what makes the red dye uv reactive...

@pompss
The uv pink dye WILL NOT turn your coolant pink. It simply makrs the red dye uv reactive.
Also, as previously mentioned, you may want to try uv cathodes instead of LEDs for best results.


----------



## Vercanti

@buehlar
I don't think he's quite getting it either

@pompps
They're not sending you a 1-liter bottle of UV Pink.. They're being nice and sending you UV Pink dye... Which comes is a small little dye bottle.... You add the dye drops to your current set up you already have and they should give you the UV Reaction you want and WILL NOT turn your fluid PINK.


----------



## stickg1

Oh man, congrats on the rad line-up Mick. I'm a slim rad man myself but maybe if successful you guys will expand and offer more sizes. I used some Mayhems Purple to darken up the X1 in my S3 build. With this rooms lighting it does a good job making it look black. So Purple Drank is back in action! Triple flavor packets this time around


----------



## pompss

I misunderstand !!! i tough was 1 liter they would send me.

But instead sending pink uv dye its not better to sent the uv clear dye ??


----------



## Vercanti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> I misunderstand !!! i tough was 1 liter they would send me.
> 
> But instead sending pink uv dye its not better to sent the uv clear dye ??


No problemo!

I don't think they offer a UV clear dye. But, anyway I wish you luck with the getting the UV reactiveness you want!

Be sure to post some pictures of how Legit it'll look!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> I misunderstand !!! i tough was 1 liter they would send me.
> 
> But instead sending pink uv dye its not better to sent the uv clear dye ??


The UV Clear is actually UV Clear Blue so it's not what you need.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Why I have to pay the difference in shipping as the UV pink its 1 liter same weight as the aurora 2?? Also I bought red UV 1 liter no pink UV and I don't wanna pink color when the UV lights are off.I didn't see the problem to swap as its the same weight


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> If you can't do it no problem but I didn't buy pink I buy red and if I knew that the red UV its crap I would bought aurora 2 which is the same price and weight


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Why I have to pay the difference in shipping as the UV pink its 1 liter same weight as the aurora 2?? Also I bought red UV 1 liter no pink UV and I don't wanna pink color when the UV lights are off.I didn't see the problem to swap as its the same weight


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> I misunderstand !!! i tough was 1 liter they would send me.
> 
> But instead sending pink uv dye its not better to sent the uv clear dye ??


UV Red doesn't exist, it's Red dye, and UV pink dye. A proper mix ratio will result in the UV effect looking redish, but it's actually the UV pink that's reacting to the U.V. light. UV Clear invisible under normal lighting, and bright blue under UV light. You don't want that. It also doesn't mix with other UV effects. I tried to mix it with UV pink to get a UV Purple type color. My results was 5 drops UV pink to 1 drop UV Clear, and it looked bright blue. There was NOTHING I could do to drown it out. Clear/UV Blue is supreme. I had it in X1 oil black, with tons of UV pink and a small amount of Clear/uv blue and the UV blue didn't even care, everything was BRIGHT blue. XD


----------



## BioDefault

So how do I obtain Aurora 2?


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BioDefault*
> 
> So how do I obtain Aurora 2?


FZPU, to be safe i would send them an email about your order.. telling them you STRICTLY want
#2


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> UV Red doesn't exist, it's Red dye, and UV pink dye. A proper mix ratio will result in the UV effect looking redish, but it's actually the UV pink that's reacting to the U.V. light. UV Clear invisible under normal lighting, and bright blue under UV light. You don't want that. It also doesn't mix with other UV effects. I tried to mix it with UV pink to get a UV Purple type color. My results was 5 drops UV pink to 1 drop UV Clear, and it looked bright blue. There was NOTHING I could do to drown it out. Clear/UV Blue is supreme. I had it in X1 oil black, with tons of UV pink and a small amount of Clear/uv blue and the UV blue didn't even care, everything was BRIGHT blue. XD


Best think is to have red uv acrylic tube next time instead of red uv coolant.

Also i wanna try to have aurora uv effect
In the morning light it will be able to see the normal aurora liquid and the night have the uv effect.

Found many video and seems to work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wrfGKLm8aI

I think mixing white aurora 2 white with uv green dye will give this effect.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pricing is a bit up in the air but they wont be the cheapest rads on the market due to them not being made by kids in a sweat shop with whips and chains and us using decent copper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also due to the complexity of the internals of the rad they all have to be hand made. We have no interest in producing for the lower end of the market we wish to improve all over performance not diminish it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to "oh that's good looking" ....
> 
> They will all come with mini blitz kits as well.


How much extra for the "pre-blitzed" option ?









BTW, going back to your 6.8 pH recommendation.... you guys been making the pre-mix for a while, so pH from dropping from formation of carbonic acid due to CO2 absorption from air I assume is something that ya have addressed.....any recommendations for those of us doing this at home ?

Was thinking of buying some 1 .0 / 0.5 liter glass containers, that I can fill to brim and seal to curtail the pH drop after opening the typical 1 gallon jug. Otherwise if I buy a gallon jug and flush the system w/ distilled for 24 hours, next day the pH of what's left in the jug will be 5.6 ish


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vercanti*
> 
> I know that with the Aurora, after a couple days of constant flow, the compounds that make Aurora shiny and beautiful begin to seperate and loose it's effect in about a week or so.
> 
> So having Aurora for show in a model; even though it's not constantly flowing, still doesn't last too long. The Aurora 2 lasting longer just means more time looking awesome and more time between loop flushes! Which is a plus.. Especially if you're the guy who has to do it!
> 
> But hey, I could be wrong!


Well this guy had Aurora 1 in for 9 months and included a long vacation where the system was off for 5 weeks. Everything was fine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7eboct_ckQ

Aurora 2 improves on that


----------



## Vercanti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Well this guy had Aurora 1 in for 9 months and included a long vacation where the system was off for 5 weeks. Everything was fine.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7eboct_ckQ
> 
> Aurora 2 improves on that


Wow, that's pretty amazing! I'm thinking some Aurora 2 is coming for me in the future!


----------



## MrBlunt

@mayhem What do you think about an Aurora Product but instead of pearl? it might have some sort of uv reactive additive that is still a micro particle and still has same effect of swirling.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Best think is to have red uv acrylic tube next time instead of red uv coolant.
> 
> Also i wanna try to have aurora uv effect
> In the morning light it will be able to see the normal aurora liquid and the night have the uv effect.
> 
> Found many video and seems to work
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wrfGKLm8aI
> 
> I think mixing white aurora 2 white with uv green dye will give this effect.


Same deal with tubing. The UV glow on tubing will either be pink or orange, UV reactive red just doesn't exist for us.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> @mayhem What do you think about an Aurora Product but instead of pearl? it might have some sort of uv reactive additive that is still a micro particle and still has same effect of swirling.


The problem with that is the swirling motion is caused by the pearlecant nano particles, which reflect light. UV effects get their florescent glow by absorbing light. My mixing a UV effects with Aurora you're creating a fluid that's both trying to reflect and absorb light, a Schrodinger's coolant if you will







. Even given all that it's not to say it can't be done.


----------



## Mayhem

The only way for some thing like that to work would mean we need a light blocker and a lite reflector in the same liquid. The reaction that is would create is a myst effect not a light moving effect and the light source would have to be bright light as well as UV light. If we were to create such a system it would only be as a one off a bit like "illusion" as it very hard to controll the end user and i'm afraid to say there a lot of people out there who do not listen and it would never work. There is a lot we can do in house and a lot we do not show because we simply have to make things user friendly and that kills off 90% of the things we can produce.

E.g Chameleon sounds simple in life. You put the liquid in at a certain temp it changes colour. Well its not that simple because say we get it to change between 25c and 28c and we send it out all over the world, well boom there is you first issue some countries will already be at 25c so there for the liquid will have reacted before they even open the bottle. In the winter it will take longer to change colour and in the summer it may have already changed color. So its really not as simple as we would like it to be and not user friendly at all. This is the same with a UV active Aurora sounds simple but its very difficult to implement.


----------



## ozzy1925

planning to use pastel white concantrate and i got distilled water from my mothers pharmacy but i am not sure if its the right stuff.Should i just buy car battery water to be safe?


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> planning to use pastel white concantrate and i got distilled water from my mothers pharmacy but i am not sure if its the right stuff.Should i just buy car battery water to be safe?


Distilled water from the local grocery store is fine to use when mixing with Pastels.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Distilled water from the local grocery store is fine to use when mixing with Pastels.


i am afraid we dont have any grocery store selling distilled water here


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am afraid we dont have any grocery store selling distilled water here


Oh yeah...just saw you were in Turkey....

Keep forgetting that it is hard to get distilled water in other countries compared to the USA (where every darn grocery store has ultra-cheap distilled water).


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Oh yeah...just saw you were in Turkey....
> 
> Keep forgetting that it is hard to get distilled water in other countries compared to the USA (where every darn grocery store has ultra-cheap distilled water).


yea i am in Turkey







do you know how hard to make my own distilled water?


----------



## gdubc

*Google is your friend*. You can buy home machines also but they are like $200 and up.

Edit: on my phone, sorry but the link is for the mobile page.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Google is your friend. You can buy home machines also but they are like $200 and up.


wow $200 is too much for me .I think i will get car battery water


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Tell ya what for half that $200, I'll come over ya house and make it with a pot on your stove









http://www.ehow.com/how_4728943_own-distilled-water.html
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Distilled-Water

Skip the rainwater one ....


----------



## Raul-7

Using 2 drops of blue dye in 0.5 gallons of water. I'm impressed by how concentrated this dye is.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Using 2 drops of blue dye in 0.5 gallons of water. I'm impressed by how concentrated this dye is.


Good stuff ain't it


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Tell ya what for half that $200, I'll come over ya house and make it with a pot on your stove
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ehow.com/how_4728943_own-distilled-water.html
> http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Distilled-Water
> 
> Skip the rainwater one ....


so all other methods work?
the real question is where to find 5-gallon stainless steel pot in the house


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The only way for some thing like that to work would mean we need a light blocker and a lite reflector in the same liquid. The reaction that is would create is a myst effect not a light moving effect and the light source would have to be bright light as well as UV light. If we were to create such a system it would only be as a one off a bit like "illusion" as it very hard to controll the end user and i'm afraid to say there a lot of people out there who do not listen and it would never work. There is a lot we can do in house and a lot we do not show because we simply have to make things user friendly and that kills off 90% of the things we can produce.
> 
> E.g Chameleon sounds simple in life. You put the liquid in at a certain temp it changes colour. Well its not that simple because say we get it to change between 25c and 28c and we send it out all over the world, well boom there is you first issue some countries will already be at 25c so there for the liquid will have reacted before they even open the bottle. In the winter it will take longer to change colour and in the summer it may have already changed color. So its really not as simple as we would like it to be and not user friendly at all. This is the same with a UV active Aurora sounds simple but its very difficult to implement.


Hey Mick

I wanna install a new rad 240 on my case to cool down my r9 295x2.
My loop have xspc 360 rad, cpu waterblock, acquacomputer 295x2 waterblock and 250 res.
Adding a second 240 rad would be ok for aurora 2??
The rad it the one from Alphacool 240mm XT45

Thanks


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Hey Mick
> 
> I wanna install a new rad 240 on my case to cool down my r9 295x2.
> My loop have xspc 360 rad, cpu waterblock, acquacomputer 295x2 waterblock and 250 res.
> Adding a second 240 rad would be ok for aurora 2??
> The rad it the one from Alphacool 240mm XT45
> 
> Thanks


XT45 is a dual row radiator. If you're going to have two radiators in an Aurora loop it would be wise to keep both of them as a single row radiator, like the ST30 or something along those lines. More rows on a radiator means lower internal coolant velocities and more radiator deadzones where the lanes protrude into the chambers. Also, make sure the res isn't a bay res, aurora likes cylindrical reservoirs. Other than that it doesn't look like there would be any problems with aurora.


----------



## Mayhem

ZytheEKS I SOOOOOOO need to take you on for support lol ..


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> ZytheEKS I SOOOOOOO need to take you on for support lol ..


The guy is doing an awesome job!


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> XT45 is a dual row radiator. If you're going to have two radiators in an Aurora loop it would be wise to keep both of them as a single row radiator, like the ST30 or something along those lines. More rows on a radiator means lower internal coolant velocities and more radiator deadzones where the lanes protrude into the chambers. Also, make sure the res isn't a bay res, aurora likes cylindrical reservoirs. Other than that it doesn't look like there would be any problems with aurora.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> ZytheEKS I SOOOOOOO need to take you on for support lol ..


I have xspc RX 360 which have three rows and i dont wanna change it right now

- Black Matt Finish
- Dimensions: 124x63x400mm (WxDxH)
- Copper Tubes and Fins
- 3 Rows of 13mm by 2mm Tubes
- Sub 8fpi (fins per inch)
- G1/4″ Ports
- 6-32 Case and Fan Screws

I still should get the one rows for 240 ???

Thk


----------



## The EX1

Having any radiators in your loop with more than one set of rows in them is asking for trouble with Aurora. If you are adding a 240 then go with the ST30 model. I would look into replacing your current XSPC RX with a single row unit as well. You might be able to pull it off but this is the price you pay for wanting Aurora.


----------



## pompss

i was using the rad for aurora for 6 months and i didn't see any issues and the silver Perls didnt disappear
Aurora 2 should be a new improved coolant and i think i should be fine by using and buying one rad 240 single row and keep the rx.
What you guys think??
any xspc 240 or 280 rad single row rad you guys know will work good???


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> so all other methods work?
> the real question is where to find 5-gallon stainless steel pot in the house


Visit your Italian neighbor and borrow their "Sauce Pot".









Mine's a 16 quart (4 gallon)

You'll find bigger ones at local churches, Boy Scouts etc. that you might be able to borrow

As for other methods .... I worry about the air exposure on the rain one. Distilled water can drop to a pH of 5.6 overnight from absorbing CO2 outta the air (carbonic acid). let's npt forget "acid rain"

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_average_pH_level_of_acid_rain
Quote:


> Regular rain water is slightly acidic, with a pH of about 5.6 due to the presence of carbonic acid from the reaction between carbon dioxide and water. Acid rain pH has been recorded as low as 2.0 with an average value of 4.3.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> i was using the rad for aurora for 6 months and i didn't see any issues and the silver Perls didnt disappear
> Aurora 2 should be a new improved coolant and i think i should be fine by using and buying one rad 240 single row and keep the rx.
> What you guys think??
> any xspc 240 or 280 rad single row rad you guys know will work good???


That is good to hear









The EX series are good units. I have an EX420 and I like it.


----------



## riesscar

Hello,

As I mentioned in a previous post, I am using a Blood Red Pastel that I mixed according to the online tutorial. While I realize that the tutorial is outdated (I realize that now), I have a new concern that I wanted to ask about:

Are the nano-particles in Mayhem's Pastel White concentrate supposed to fall out of suspension when the coolant is idle for a few hours?

I ask because when I leave the system off for a few hours, what looks like white silt develops at the lowest point of curvature in my tubing. It mixes again and moves along once the pump is running. I have seen no cooling performance issues, but is this indicative of a problem with the coolant?

Thanks,

Carson


----------



## Mayhem

Weve been testing Aurora 2 in our new rads quad pass , triple flow and you will get it working for about 5 days fine how ever you will then start to see it disappear into the normal hiding spots with in the rad. The looks will still be there but dampened down a bit.

Mick

@riesscar Pastel is a nanofluid and yup it does fall out and this is normal how ever if you over water a concentrate it will fall out quicker.


----------



## Acesi7

So I have looked through a few pages, but haven't really found anything that answers my question.

I'm got a very complex loop, and I'm looking to put in Mayhems Aurora, initially it will be only for the photo's and showing, however, my question is how long am I likely to get out of it before it gets clogged/runs into problems.

My loops is as follows.

2x EK Tube Res (connected in parallel using Q-fittings) > Aquacomputer Flow meter > Dual D5 Bitspower pump > HWLabs BlackIce GTX 560 (Dual Pass) > Alphacool NexXxos UT60 280 (Can't find info on pass) > Custom Nateman_doo X79 Dark VRM block > EK Monarch RAM block > EK Supremacy block > EK Monarch RAM block (yes, 2) > Custom Nateman_doo x79 Dark Chipset block > EVGA 780 Classified Hydrocopper block x3 connected in parallel > back to Res.

All connected with Hard Acrylic tubing with the exception of 2 lengths between radiators and to the pumps, no 'fill ports' or 'drainage spots' so not obvious places for the nano particles to fall out of suspension, and plenty of power to push it around.

The reason I ask, is I will need a day or 2 to take photo's of it, then I would like to take it to an upcoming LAN event, however it's a few weeks later.

Thoughts?

The Aurora I ordered is from Performance PC, Tharsis Red. So I presume this is Aurora 1 and not 2? Is there anywhere I can get my hands on Aurora 2?


----------



## BioDefault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acesi7*
> 
> So I have looked through a few pages, but haven't really found anything that answers my question.
> 
> I'm got a very complex loop, and I'm looking to put in Mayhems Aurora, initially it will be only for the photo's and showing, however, my question is how long am I likely to get out of it before it gets clogged/runs into problems.
> 
> My loops is as follows.
> 
> 2x EK Tube Res (connected in parallel using Q-fittings) > Aquacomputer Flow meter > Dual D5 Bitspower pump > HWLabs BlackIce GTX 560 (Dual Pass) > Alphacool NexXxos UT60 280 (Can't find info on pass) > Custom Nateman_doo X79 Dark VRM block > EK Monarch RAM block > EK Supremacy block > EK Monarch RAM block (yes, 2) > Custom Nateman_doo x79 Dark Chipset block > EVGA 780 Classified Hydrocopper block x3 connected in parallel > back to Res.
> 
> All connected with Hard Acrylic tubing with the exception of 2 lengths between radiators and to the pumps, no 'fill ports' or 'drainage spots' so not obvious places for the nano particles to fall out of suspension, and plenty of power to push it around.
> 
> The reason I ask, is I will need a day or 2 to take photo's of it, then I would like to take it to an upcoming LAN event, however it's a few weeks later.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> The Aurora I ordered is from Performance PC, Tharsis Red. So I presume this is Aurora 1 and not 2? Is there anywhere I can get my hands on Aurora 2?


Yeah, they haven't started straight forward selling yet I don't think. It almost seems as if they've been selling it with requests, but I'm not sure. A page, or maybe a couple pages, back somebody told me to email them about it.

I haven't even started water cooling yet, and I can safely say that Aurora 1 wouldn't last long at ALL in your system.


----------



## Deedaz

hey guys! building my first liquid cooling rig and basing it around the aurora 2. Total star trek geek so when i saw this stuff in a vid i knew what my next project would be lol. this will be a lengthy process as i dont have the 400+ to just drop at once.

I have a few questions hopefully you guys can help me out with. First, are there any blocks that dont work well with aurora? Ive seen some of them have really small channels and im worried it may clog. this rig is really just to look good so a performance drop for better flow is fine
There are those chineese water blocks on ebay for half the price but ive seen people say they dont have a lot of channels or other quality issues, but would that actually work better for aurora?

any tips or ideas for my build would be appreciated!








i plan on using a 250mm tube res, 1/2" x 3/4" tubing, blue monsoon free center compression fittings, and a 280mm rad. (cpu only for now, i'll do the GC next year)


----------



## Mayhem

Honestly some chinese blocks actually work quite well and some don't but its a bit of a hit and miss .. personally id say go with "good named brands (XSPC, EK, Koolance, Aquacomputer, Black ice, Bits power)". I have got some cheap fitting and they just pissed fluid all over one of the systems were building (not impressed at all) there were all alpha cool and only 1 did not.. Ive just checked all the o rings and found there pathetic and all will need replacing.... so going cheap has cost me more !!!! old saying "you pay for you get" ...


----------



## ozzy1925

@Mayhem please check your message box


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> ZytheEKS I SOOOOOOO need to take you on for support lol ..










Now that would certainly be interesting.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> I have xspc RX 360 which have three rows and i dont wanna change it right now
> 
> - Black Matt Finish
> - Dimensions: 124x63x400mm (WxDxH)
> - Copper Tubes and Fins
> - 3 Rows of 13mm by 2mm Tubes
> - Sub 8fpi (fins per inch)
> - G1/4″ Ports
> - 6-32 Case and Fan Screws
> 
> I still should get the one rows for 240 ???
> 
> Thk


Oh dear, I didn't realize the RX was the big one. I'd definitely opt for a single row radiator. Aurora 2 isn't a miracle fluid, but it should last longer than the old formula. Don't keep it in longer than a year, the surfactants start to break down after a year once activated.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> As I mentioned in a previous post, I am using a Blood Red Pastel that I mixed according to the online tutorial. While I realize that the tutorial is outdated (I realize that now), I have a new concern that I wanted to ask about:
> 
> Are the nano-particles in Mayhem's Pastel White concentrate supposed to fall out of suspension when the coolant is idle for a few hours?
> 
> I ask because when I leave the system off for a few hours, what looks like white silt develops at the lowest point of curvature in my tubing. It mixes again and moves along once the pump is running. I have seen no cooling performance issues, but is this indicative of a problem with the coolant?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Carson


When left idle they'll fall out of suspension, there's no turbulence to keep them moving. When you turn the system back on the vast majority of them should go right back into suspension. If pastel lost suspension that easy you'd see complaints all over the place. I have yet to see a post along the lines of "Pastel not as opaque as it used to be" which is what would happen if too many particles fell out of suspension.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acesi7*
> 
> So I have looked through a few pages, but haven't really found anything that answers my question.
> 
> I'm got a very complex loop, and I'm looking to put in Mayhems Aurora, initially it will be only for the photo's and showing, however, my question is how long am I likely to get out of it before it gets clogged/runs into problems.
> 
> My loops is as follows.
> 
> 2x EK Tube Res (connected in parallel using Q-fittings) > Aquacomputer Flow meter > Dual D5 Bitspower pump > HWLabs BlackIce GTX 560 (Dual Pass) > Alphacool NexXxos UT60 280 (Can't find info on pass) > Custom Nateman_doo X79 Dark VRM block > EK Monarch RAM block > EK Supremacy block > EK Monarch RAM block (yes, 2) > Custom Nateman_doo x79 Dark Chipset block > EVGA 780 Classified Hydrocopper block x3 connected in parallel > back to Res.
> 
> All connected with Hard Acrylic tubing with the exception of 2 lengths between radiators and to the pumps, no 'fill ports' or 'drainage spots' so not obvious places for the nano particles to fall out of suspension, and plenty of power to push it around.
> 
> The reason I ask, is I will need a day or 2 to take photo's of it, then I would like to take it to an upcoming LAN event, however it's a few weeks later.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> The Aurora I ordered is from Performance PC, Tharsis Red. So I presume this is Aurora 1 and not 2? Is there anywhere I can get my hands on Aurora 2?


If it's Aurora 2 there should be a little bubble on the bottom that says "new improved formula" or something along those lines. It should last through the event. Past that I wouldn't count on it for lasting too long, that loop is massive and the UT60 is a triple row radiator. Most all radiators are going to be dual pass unless it explicitly says "Cross Flow" in which case the in/out ports will be on opposite sides of the rad. Mayhems is the only x.120 type rad with quad pass I've seen to date, which makes me wonder what kind of pressure drop it's going to have. I'd assume the pressure drop can't be any worse than the HW GTS or the Swiftech MCR rads, but this is getting a little off topic, so to digress: It /should/ last through the event assuming you don't have stagnant flow for extended periods of time, other than that I wouldn't count on it lasting to long, that loop is massive as are the radiators.


----------



## defiler2k

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acesi7*
> 
> So I have looked through a few pages, but haven't really found anything that answers my question.
> 
> I'm got a very complex loop, and I'm looking to put in Mayhems Aurora, initially it will be only for the photo's and showing, however, my question is how long am I likely to get out of it before it gets clogged/runs into problems.
> 
> My loops is as follows.
> 
> 2x EK Tube Res (connected in parallel using Q-fittings) > Aquacomputer Flow meter > Dual D5 Bitspower pump > HWLabs BlackIce GTX 560 (Dual Pass) > Alphacool NexXxos UT60 280 (Can't find info on pass) > Custom Nateman_doo X79 Dark VRM block > EK Monarch RAM block > EK Supremacy block > EK Monarch RAM block (yes, 2) > Custom Nateman_doo x79 Dark Chipset block > EVGA 780 Classified Hydrocopper block x3 connected in parallel > back to Res.
> 
> All connected with Hard Acrylic tubing with the exception of 2 lengths between radiators and to the pumps, no 'fill ports' or 'drainage spots' so not obvious places for the nano particles to fall out of suspension, and plenty of power to push it around.
> 
> The reason I ask, is I will need a day or 2 to take photo's of it, then I would like to take it to an upcoming LAN event, however it's a few weeks later.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> The Aurora I ordered is from Performance PC, Tharsis Red. So I presume this is Aurora 1 and not 2? Is there anywhere I can get my hands on Aurora 2?






So I had a similar setup as you with Aurora 1 and it lasted about 2 months before it all went crazy. Now, couple of tips if you are using aurora 1, remove the jet plate on the supremacy block, the particles will gather around the plate rather quickly if you dont. Have your pumps going at a medium to high speed, you need to keep your fluids circulating quickly to prevent particles from sticking. Connect with cards in series instead of parallel, the parallel setup will drop your flow which will allow particles to get stuck between channels and such. Im not sure how restrictive are the Monarch blocks as I have never used them but if they are high restriction you will have buildup similar to what happens with the CPU block after a while.

If what you received from PPC's does not have the new bubble on the label then it is the old stuff. I had a conversation with the folks at FCPU little over a week ago and they said they were waiting to receive Aurora 2 and would label it as such on their site when it arrives. I haven't seen it pop up so I imagine they are still waiting. Personally I cant wait until they get it because I want to test it out and compare notes to see how well it performs compared to 1 and how long it lasts on a multi GPU and multi rad setup like mine. I think that would be worth wile information for people like me that change components often for testing but like to keep their loop looking nice.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> hey guys! building my first liquid cooling rig and basing it around the aurora 2. Total star trek geek so when i saw this stuff in a vid i knew what my next project would be lol. this will be a lengthy process as i dont have the 400+ to just drop at once.
> 
> I have a few questions hopefully you guys can help me out with. First, are there any blocks that dont work well with aurora? Ive seen some of them have really small channels and im worried it may clog. this rig is really just to look good so a performance drop for better flow is fine
> There are those chineese water blocks on ebay for half the price but ive seen people say they dont have a lot of channels or other quality issues, but would that actually work better for aurora?
> 
> any tips or ideas for my build would be appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i plan on using a 250mm tube res, 1/2" x 3/4" tubing, blue monsoon free center compression fittings, and a 280mm rad. (cpu only for now, i'll do the GC next year)


I would go with an EK supremacy and if you have issues with the particles then remove the jet plate. It would still perform better than the cheap blocks. You want to make sure that your block is made of quality materials that will not cause issues in your loop in the long run. Sure getting a quality block is not cheap but it is worth it in the long run, specially if you have any issues a company like EK would be responsive to help with any issues you might have. Also, I would shy away from extremely large reservoirs as from past experiences with aurora you can have particles settle on the top of the res as it takes longer for all of the fluid to make it through the loop.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Also look around the OCN marketplace for your components, I got a majority of my loop off the marketplace


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Also look around the OCN marketplace for your components, I got a majority of my loop off the marketplace


This ^^^ the market place is a great location to find great deals on WC gear, personally I sell all the time items that are almost new since I test and replace things all the time.


----------



## gdubc

If anyone is looking for the "new improved" bottles of aurora I would suggest calling FrozenCPU. I know they have some of the new stuff but they may also have some aurora 1 mixed in on their shelves, who knows. I would say to call and make sure to get what you want. I know they carry the "new & improved" because my local microcenter gets their watercooling gear from Frozen, and it's the new stuff on their shelves.


----------



## Acesi7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So I had a similar setup as you with Aurora 1 and it lasted about 2 months before it all went crazy. Now, couple of tips if you are using aurora 1, remove the jet plate on the supremacy block, the particles will gather around the plate rather quickly if you dont. Have your pumps going at a medium to high speed, you need to keep your fluids circulating quickly to prevent particles from sticking. Connect with cards in series instead of parallel, the parallel setup will drop your flow which will allow particles to get stuck between channels and such. Im not sure how restrictive are the Monarch blocks as I have never used them but if they are high restriction you will have buildup similar to what happens with the CPU block after a while.
> 
> If what you received from PPC's does not have the new bubble on the label then it is the old stuff. I had a conversation with the folks at FCPU little over a week ago and they said they were waiting to receive Aurora 2 and would label it as such on their site when it arrives. I haven't seen it pop up so I imagine they are still waiting. Personally I cant wait until they get it because I want to test it out and compare notes to see how well it performs compared to 1 and how long it lasts on a multi GPU and multi rad setup like mine. I think that would be worth wile information for people like me that change components often for testing but like to keep their loop looking nice.


Legend. Some really helpful info mate. Appreciate it. I've already put in an order with performance PC's and it's took late to change it now. So I'll likely get version 1, although we'll see what arrives. I'll put it in and see how long it lasts and probably document the decrease in flow (if any) using the AC Aquaero 6. Then switch to the new version 2 stuff when this lot gives out and post the results.

Long term happy to settle for pastel.


----------



## ACallander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Also look around the OCN marketplace for your components, I got a majority of my loop off the marketplace


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> This ^^^ the market place is a great location to find great deals on WC gear, personally I sell all the time items that are almost new since I test and replace things all the time.


If only I had the rep to sell. I'm trying to get rid of a bunch of computer stuff, even a Merlin SM8 case but man.. no bites on craigslist.


----------



## Deedaz

thanks for the replies! i hadn't considered a res could be too big, maybe i will go with a 150mm instead. It looks like the supremacy block is the only CLEAR acrylic top available so i will be going with that.
i will keep an eye on the marketplace, didnt even know it was there lol.


----------



## defiler2k

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> If only I had the rep to sell. I'm trying to get rid of a bunch of computer stuff, even a Merlin SM8 case but man.. no bites on craigslist.






I hear you, I had an ever growing collection of stuff that was not moving on ebay or craigs, posted on here and poof gone in days.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> thanks for the replies! i hadn't considered a res could be too big, maybe i will go with a 150mm instead. It looks like the supremacy block is the only CLEAR acrylic top available so i will be going with that.
> i will keep an eye on the marketplace, didnt even know it was there lol.


The supremacy is a great choice, and they tend to come up in the Market place often.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> 
> I hear you, I had an ever growing collection of stuff that was not moving on ebay or craigs, posted on here and poof gone in days.
> *The supremacy is a great choice, and they tend to come up in the Market place often*.


Not as often as one would wish. Waited for what seemed like forever for one to show up. When they do, don't hesitate if you need one. By the way, thanks defiler


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> When left idle they'll fall out of suspension, there's no turbulence to keep them moving. When you turn the system back on the vast majority of them should go right back into suspension. If pastel lost suspension that easy you'd see complaints all over the place. I have yet to see a post along the lines of "Pastel not as opaque as it used to be" which is what would happen if too many particles fell out of suspension.


Thanks for the response. When the particles fall out of suspension, the coolant does turn more opaque, but it normalizes in color once the pump starts moving things along. I have just ordered more coolant and I'm going to use premixed Pastel, as I have too many concerns with the coolant I'm using. Thanks ZytheEKS for the response. +1 rep.

I do not want to incite an argument or seem like I am trying to slam Mick or his products, but I cannot help expressing my frustration with the fact that in was told by Mick himself that in order to make Pastel Blood Red I should follow the online tutorial. I know that Mayhem is rapidly expanding, and so there is a lot going on, but here is the email exchange in which I was given bad advice that has cost me around 70$:

On the 31st of January, 2014 I wrote:
Quote:


> Subject:
> 
> Achieving Deep Blood Red Coolant Color
> 
> Body:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I am in the process of building a new deep red/black themed build, and -- based on reviews -- have decided to go with Mayhem dyes and coolant. I was thinking that I would like to use the pastel coolant, as I don't want much (if any) transparency; however, the pastel red that you provide is too bright. My initial idea was to get the aforementioned coolant and then add black dye, but it seems that Mayhem does not offer a black dye. So...
> 
> My question is: which dye I should implement in order to darken the red of the pastel coolant to create a deep blood red (not black or brown)?
> 
> Whoops, almost forgot to ask my other question: Should I add a silver coil to Mayhem coolant, or do the premixed biocides, etc... do the job well enough. On this note, will Mayhem dyes or the coolant itself build up gunk in my block fittings? Will it stain my tubing (I know not to use Tygon)? I will most likely be using primochill or monsoon tubing.
> 
> Thanks Sincerely,
> 
> Carson Riess


To which Mick responded on the same day:
Quote:


> Use this to see how to make blood red
> 
> Don't use a silver coil with any of mayhems pre mixed or concentrate coolants.
> 
> As long as you don't add UV pink you should be oky with staining.
> 
> A link was posted. Here it is again -> http://www.mayhems..co.uk/front/blood-red.html
> 
> Mick


Now, the post I read from ZytheEKS which made me realize that I was mixing the coolant incorrectly was posted in 2013, and Mick posted that the tutorial is outdated. If it is outdated, and it was at the time of my email inquiry, why was I referred to said link?

What's done is done, and I am not harboring resentment. But the links should be removed if no longer valid, and if things are to hectic to respond to customer inquiries effectively, I feel that no response would be better than bad advice. I still feel that Mayhem coolant is in a class above all others, so they will keep my patronage. I just wanted to let Mayhem know about this.

-Carson


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Not as often as one would wish. Waited for what seemed like forever for one to show up. When they do, don't hesitate if you need one. By the way, thanks defiler


Glad you are happy! Do post your build log when you have all parts. I would be happy to see what you build.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Glad you are happy! Do post your build log when you have all parts. I would be happy to see what you build.


Will do. It's going to be comprised mostly of parts off the marketplace. Started buying in January. I swear, longest build ever! There's a PSU in the marketplace I would love to pick up but need to sell the 1200w one that is too big first.

PS this will have Mayhems pastel yellow running through it to stay on topic. There, now my post isn't completely inappropriate!


----------



## ozzy1925

Hello,i wonder how many liters of mayhem pastel do i need for my loop?
specs:
2x alphacool ut 60 480mm
1x alphacool ut 60 240mm
3xgpu
1x cpu
2x ek ram cooler
1x 250ml reservoir


----------



## Mayhem

well once you have cleaned you rad out with blitz before using pastel esp on them rads you probably looking around 2 to 3 ltrs of fluid


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> well once you have cleaned you rad out with blitz before using pastel esp on them rads you probably looking around 2 to 3 ltrs of fluid


Should i get 4 liters to be safe?

edit :Also is there any difference between concentrate and premix fluid?


----------



## Mayhem

Premix is all up and ready to go no mixing, Concentrate you need to add water to it which the amount is written on the bottle.


----------



## Newtocooling

I just noticed FrozenCPU just got the Pastel Black in stock. How does that compare to the X-1 Oil Black in looks? I know that X-1 has to be changed sooner than Pastel.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I just noticed FrozenCPU just got the Pastel Black in stock. How does that compare to the X-1 Oil Black in looks? I know that X-1 has to be changed sooner than Pastel.


Pastel black is more opaque than the X1 oil black. Not that X1 oil black allows a lot of light to pass but if you have LEDs near the fluid, you can tell. X1 is also more of a forgiving fluid to work with.


----------



## akira749

X1 Oil Black in real life







Depending on the light it looks very black or black with the red tint in it.









Superb coolant by the way!!!


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Pastel black is more opaque than the X1 oil black. Not that X1 oil black allows a lot of light to pass but if you have LEDs near the fluid, you can tell. X1 is also more of a forgiving fluid to work with.


Thanks for the answer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> X1 Oil Black in real life
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the light it looks very black or black with the red tint in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Superb coolant by the way!!!


Those images make me feel better about my choice I went with X-1 as Pastel was sold out at the time. Your builds are amazing!!! How did you get so damn good, just born that way I suppose. You, Snef, and Jameswalt are super talented, its so much fun looking through your build logs.


----------



## The EX1

Stunning build man! That X1 Black looks terrific in those EK blocks!


----------



## pompss

Aurora 2 will work with this pump MCP350 ???
I try to open the wiki page of aurora but seems to be deactivated
I know that will work with D5 pump but just wondering if there is some cheaper pump that will work with.

thanks


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Those images make me feel better about my choice I went with X-1 as Pastel was sold out at the time. Your builds are amazing!!! How did you get so damn good, just born that way I suppose. You, Snef, and Jameswalt are super talented, its so much fun looking through your build logs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Stunning build man! That X1 Black looks terrific in those EK blocks!


Thanks guys!

I already said it a few times but being compared to Snef and James always made me blush a bit since they are builders that I personally admire!









As for the X1 coolant, you won't regret it and it perform very well too! All my rigs are on X1 or Pastel....that make me a Mayhems fanboy but I accept it and will always vouch for them


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> I already said it a few times but being compared to Snef and James always made me blush a bit since they are builders that I personally admire!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the X1 coolant, you won't regret it and it perform very well too! All my rigs are on X1 or Pastel....that make me a Mayhems fanboy but I accept it and will always vouch for them


No need to blush when being compared to them. I'd say you are on even ground with them. Only thing I'd do is use some stealth cable combs . But that is just me.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Hey Mick,
> 
> I need your confirmation on this.
> 
> I purchased 3 bottles of Supernova and 3 bottles of Tharsis Red concentrate from PPCS on May 12th. I emailed them to asking if it was the new formula and they replied:
> 
> 
> 
> Here below is the bottles I received. Only the Supernova (left) has the little "'New Improved" bubble. Tharsis Red (right) doesn't have the bubble, so I assume they must have instead sent me the old Tharsis Red formula?
> If so, I really need to have this exchanged as I'm almost ready to fill my loops.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Before buying, should we make sure if the "new improved" picture must be on the bottle for all mayhem coolants or only supernova has this?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> No need to blush when being compared to them. I'd say you are on even ground with them. Only thing I'd do is use some stealth cable combs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But that is just me.


Thanks









In my Xenomorph build, combs are going to be used for sure. That was on my priority list


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Aurora 2 will work with this pump MCP350 ???
> I try to open the wiki page of aurora but seems to be deactivated
> I know that will work with D5 pump but just wondering if there is some cheaper pump that will work with.
> 
> thanks


MCP350 is a rebranded Laing DDC, should work fine. Make sure to keep flowrates up, the pump isn't as much of an issue as whether or not you have sufficient flow to keep the nano particles suspended.


----------



## pompss

i just phoned Frozen cpu. They said they just receive the new shipping of aurora but its the old version and not the aurora 2.
I ask him if he could see a blue bubble which say " new improved" And he said no. i also said the the name its the same as the one in the web site.
So frozen cpu doesn't have it but i don't know why they still receive the old version instead the new one :confuse

Make any sense !!!


----------



## Mayhem

Guys the old stock has to go before new stick replaces it, it is that simple.

Mick


----------



## pompss

So aurora 2 have the old label without the blue bubble new improved??
Because frozen cpu just said to me that the blue bubble saying " new improved " its not there and that they receive the new shipping today!!!
the also said that this is the new version !!!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> So aurora 2 have the old label without the blue bubble new improved??
> Because frozen cpu just said to me that the blue bubble saying " new improved " its not there and that they receive the new shipping today!!!
> the also said that this is the new version !!!


is this new improved bubble for only aurora?

edit: i learned its just for aurora


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> is this new improved bubble for only aurora?


honestly i don't know anymore.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Guys the old stock has to go before new stick replaces it, it is that simple.
> 
> Mick


This .^^

I ordered from PPCS both red and white at the same time and the red was old stock and the white was new.
Always call when ordering the Aurora... you may get either the old formula or the new so call and check before.


----------



## The EX1

Yes only aurora has been revised.


----------



## stickg1

That X1 Oil Black looks sick. I think I'm going to get some. Maybe I will do that when I replace this ST30 with a Swiftech MCR-220 to match my other one.


----------



## Buehlar

I'm hoping this helps to clear up some confusion with the Aurora.

Peak at the photo below...

The bottle on the left is the new improved version, it's not actually labeled as "Aurora 2", that's just what all the interested users and members on OCN have been calling the new version. I think that is what has been the most confusing to the re-sellers and buyers alike. I was also confused at first.

*The product's name has not been changed to "Aurora 2", both versions are still labeled "Aurora"* it has only been improved upon for long term use.

Notice the left bottle, it has the little blue bubble in the lower right corner of the label that reads "new improved".

The bottle on the right "without" the blue bubble is the old Aurora.

Now...here is my theory,
Some of re-sellers' staff at PPCS, FrozenCPU, Microcenter...etc, may not be aware of this "new improved" version. They may have just restocked their shelves with Aurora, (some of the old formula may be mixed with some of the new), and because it's "new stock just came in" to them it's just "new Aurora". They may tell you "yes it's new" without actually knowing the difference between the two. This happened to me, just a honest mistake or misunderstanding.

Mention this or refer to this post when emailing or talking with your favorite re-seller.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> I'm hoping this helps to clear up some confusion with the Aurora.
> 
> Peak at the photo below...
> 
> The bottle on the left is the new improved version, it's not actually labeled as "Aurora 2", that's just what all the interested users and members on OCN have been calling the new version. I think that is what has been the most confusing to the re-sellers and buyers alike. I was also confused at first.
> 
> *The product's name has not been changed to "Aurora 2", both versions are still labeled "Aurora"* it has only been improved upon for long term use.
> 
> Notice the left bottle, it has the little blue bubble in the lower right corner of the label that reads "new improved".
> 
> The bottle on the right "without" the blue bubble is the old Aurora.
> 
> Now...here is my theory,
> Some of re-sellers' staff at PPCS, FrozenCPU, Microcenter...etc, may not be aware of this "new improved" version. They may have just restocked their shelves with Aurora, (some of the old formula may be mixed with some of the new), and because it's "new stock just came in" to them it's just "new Aurora". They may tell you "yes it's new" without actually knowing the difference between the two. This happened to me, just a honest mistake or misunderstanding.
> 
> Mention this or refer to this post when emailing or talking with your favorite re-seller.


Let put this clear
I spoke with frozen cpu and they told me that the a new shipping of aurora delivered today.
I told him to check at the bottom of the label if there is a blue bubble saying "new improved "
He told to me Hold when he was checking the new shipping to figure this out.
After 10 min he get back to me saying that he couldnt see any blue bubble saying " new improved " on the label .
So i dont understand why they still receive the old products instead the new one.
Also he told me that the shipping they receive are the newest aurora for mayhem but that he cant seen any ' new improved " on the label

So there two possible scenario here:

First scenario that Frozen cpu just laid to me about the new shipping coming
Secondo Scenario Frozen Cpu still receive old stuff from mayhem's without knowing the existence on the new aurora 2

Performance pcs have the red and blue aurora 2 with the bubble they confirmed to me. The white one that i need they don't have it







!!!!


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> I'm hoping this helps to clear up some confusion with the Aurora.
> 
> Peak at the photo below...
> 
> The bottle on the left is the new improved version, it's not actually labeled as "Aurora 2", that's just what all the interested users and members on OCN have been calling the new version. I think that is what has been the most confusing to the re-sellers and buyers alike. I was also confused at first.
> 
> *The product's name has not been changed to "Aurora 2", both versions are still labeled "Aurora"* it has only been improved upon for long term use.
> 
> Notice the left bottle, it has the little blue bubble in the lower right corner of the label that reads "new improved".
> 
> The bottle on the right "without" the blue bubble is the old Aurora.
> 
> Now...here is my theory,
> Some of re-sellers' staff at PPCS, FrozenCPU, Microcenter...etc, may not be aware of this "new improved" version. They may have just restocked their shelves with Aurora, (some of the old formula may be mixed with some of the new), and because it's "new stock just came in" to them it's just "new Aurora". They may tell you "yes it's new" without actually knowing the difference between the two. This happened to me, just a honest mistake or misunderstanding.
> 
> Mention this or refer to this post when emailing or talking with your favorite re-seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let put this clear
> I spoke with frozen cpu and they told me that the a new shipping of aurora delivered today.
> I told him to check at the bottom of the label if there is a blue bubble saying "new improved "
> He told to me Hold when he was checking the new shipping to figure this out.
> After 10 min he get back to me saying that he couldnt see any blue bubble saying " new improved " on the label .
> _*So i dont understand why they still receive the old products instead the new one*_.
> Also he told me that the shipping they receive are the newest aurora for mayhem but that he cant seen any ' new improved " on the label
> 
> So there two possible scenario here:
> 
> First scenario that Frozen cpu just laid to me about the new shipping coming
> Secondo Scenario Frozen Cpu still receive old stuff from mayhem's without knowing the existence on the new aurora 2
> 
> Performance pcs have the red and blue aurora 2 with the bubble they confirmed to me. *The white one that i need they don't have it*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!!!
Click to expand...

It's just this simple...the old Aurora "stock pile" (wherever that may be, that frozen and other re-sellers re-stocks it's shelves from) just hasn't been completely depleted of the old product yet. They have been slip streaming the new and old product mixed together. We can not correct this. We can only check with customer service to see what the store has in their stock at any given time. If they don't have the new Aurora then you'll just have to keep checking until they do.

The photo above was my order from PPCS back on May the 12th. At that time, they had the new white in stock...but the red was old stock. It will be a hit or miss craps shoot until all of the old stock disappears.

pompss, I just can't explain it any better than that bud.


----------



## stickg1

Guys just everyone keep buying a butt ton of Aurora until we all consistently get new product. We will have done the community a great service and also probably bought Mick a new catamaran.


----------



## Deedaz

i would understand the need to deplete old inventory first if it was the exact same product, but the thing is, one of them can only be used for a very short amount of time. Maybe there could be some discount for buying up the old stuff or an extra charge for the new?? i would gladly pay extra to make sure i got the new stuff made to last and im sure there are people who still want the old stuff for shows or whatever.
On the mayhem website its clearly listed as aurora and aurora 2. If we buy directly from mayhem would we get the A2 or would it be the same thing thats happening with frozen/performance?


----------



## ozzy1925

i also would like to know :all mayhems products have production date on the label ?


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> i would understand the need to deplete old inventory first if it was the exact same product, but the thing is, one of them can only be used for a very short amount of time. Maybe there could be some discount for buying up the old stuff or an extra charge for the new?? i would gladly pay extra to make sure i got the new stuff made to last and im sure there are people who still want the old stuff for shows or whatever.
> On the mayhem website its clearly listed as aurora and aurora 2. If we buy directly from mayhem would we get the A2 or would it be the same thing thats happening with frozen/performance?


Yes if it's "listed" as Aurora 2 and you order it directly you would get Aurora 2.

If you order here in the states, you may get lucky and receive A2 but it's _*not going to be "labeled" or "listed" as Aurora 2,*_ , It'll be identifiable by the little blue bubble.

A few pages back, @Mayhem posted a photo of new labels and barcodes as well as mentioned pricing changes for the Aurora, however these are new facts and you won't see these states at the moment.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i also would like to know :all mayhems products have production date on the label ?


All of the concentrate bottles I've ordered do. I thought I answered this via your PM?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> All of the concentrate bottles I've ordered do. I thought I answered this via your PM?


yea i saw your answer ,but can we say premixes also have a production date on the bottle?


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> yea i saw your answer ,but can we say premixes also have a production date on the bottle?


I believe so but I'm not 100% certain. Pastel did. Maybe someone can look at their Aurora premix bottle?

I think he also mentioned that all premixes would be Aurora 2. You'd need to ask him or your re-seller to be sure


----------



## pompss

Mick
Which other reseller are selling Mayhems Aurora 2 in the USA??
Im not able to find any aurora 2 supernova white from Forzen Cpu And PPC.

If not i have to order form Mayems shop


----------



## xioticin

Just finished getting my video card back from EVGA and finishing my loop last night and was very excited to finally get to see my Mayhems UV Clear Blue concentrate in action. Once I mixed it and poured it in, the glow was pretty great and impressive. After about 4 hours of running, the glow had faded substantially! Currently, even though it is day time here, there is zero glow. I am using IceModz True UV led lighting to provide the UV and followed the mixing instructions.

I really want to enjoy this product. Has anyone else recently had a similar problem?


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems has not made any Aurora 1 formula since January 2014 of this year.

In January the formula was upgraded to "new and improved (blue bubble)". All re sellers were told of this and explained why. (as far as i know)

In June to stop confusion "Aurora 2" name was added to the bottle and reduced down to only silver, red and blue in both 1 ltrs and Concentrate.

If re sellers don't stock rotate that is "not" our fault we have added date codes for over 18 months now.

On our site is selling all reaming stock of old colors (some are a1 some are a2) has been priced slashed and marked as EOL. If is is not sold with in the next 4 weeks it will be binned. If you are after cheap X1 then get Aurora on sale at our site at £2.00 and filter out the aurora and you have some very very cheap coolant.

We will not answer any more questions on or concerning Aurora 1. We killed it off in jan 2014

Labels were posted before so you know what is A2. "New and improved" is also based on A2 mix.


----------



## VSG

Mick, can we buy the 250mL concentrates also and filter them to get X1? What filter size would be best? That's a pretty good deal


----------



## Mayhem

Yes it can how ever we cannot tell you if its A2 (different colours) or A1 as were just bulk getting rid of it all.


----------



## VSG

Fair enough, I understand that. I might get a few colors to try out. No matter how much I add of the Aurora, shipping is the most expensive item lol.

BTW the show n' tell went great, people loved the color changes!


----------



## Zarniwoop

I have been running pastel red coolant with PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing in my new system for about a week now. The initial vivid red colour has changed to a paler almost salmon colour. I was under the impression this tubing was OK with the pastel coolant.

Is this some sort of plasticiser issue? I am not sure it is as the colour of the coolant in the reservoir is the same. If i were to drain the system and refill with fresh pastel red would this colour change reoccur again?

Whilst the changed colour is not too bad I am worrying that this colour change will continue.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance


----------



## Mayhem

what rad are you using.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zarniwoop*
> 
> I have been running pastel red coolant with PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing in my new system for about a week now. The initial vivid red colour has changed to a paler almost salmon colour. I was under the impression this tubing was OK with the pastel coolant.
> 
> Is this some sort of plasticiser issue? I am not sure it is as the colour of the coolant in the reservoir is the same. If i were to drain the system and refill with fresh pastel red would this colour change reoccur again?
> 
> Whilst the changed colour is not too bad I am worrying that this colour change will continue.
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks in advance


It's gotta be the radiators. Radiator surface flux gets stripped from radiators that have not been cleaned properly, and wacks out coolants. Adv LRT is fine with mayhems coolants, the worst thing that can happen is it turns a little yellowish. This is not due to plasticizers nor due to mayhems coolants, it's just something that can happen to the tubing. What radiators are you using and did you do anything to clean them prior to filling?


----------



## xioticin

Contact both FrozenCPU and Mayhems by email to see if there is any reports about the UV component fading so quickly. I can't really find any reports online of it just removing itself so quickly. I have wracked my brain about what the reason is for this. If anyone has any ideas, I will be glad to look them over.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xioticin*
> 
> Contact both FrozenCPU and Mayhems by email to see if there is any reports about the UV component fading so quickly. I can't really find any reports online of it just removing itself so quickly. I have wracked my brain about what the reason is for this. If anyone has any ideas, I will be glad to look them over.


Please describe everything that was in the coolant, the water used, any concentrates, premixes, additives, etc. There are many different things that can mess up UV effects, unfortunately UV liquids are somewhat sensitive.


----------



## xioticin

Well lets see, I flushed both of my radiators (RX 360 v3 by XSPC) 3 times with just distilled water. Shook them and let them sit for 5 minutes each time. I flushed my EK Acetal block for my 780 and the XSPC Raystorm block for the CPU by running just distlled through it as best I could. I then hooked my entire loop up with Primochill Advanced LTR(the recommend good kind) and ran the loop with distilled water while I waited for my 780 to be RMA"D. I got it back, hooked it all back up with the card, mixed the solution according to instructions on the back of the bottle with distilled, and poured it into the loop using the same Primochill tubing for the feeding tube and a plastic funnel that is pretty generic.

The distilled water was some that I got in plastic milk/water jugs at Walmart that stated Distilled Water. The only concentrate that was added to the water was the Mayhem's X1 UV Clear Blue Concentrate in the 250 ml bottle.


----------



## Zarniwoop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> what rad are you using.


I am using three alphacool nexxos ut60 full copper radiators. I flushed them repeatedly with distiller water prior to installation. Do you think a drain, flush and refill would do the trick? If so, what should I use to flush/clean the radiators?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Use Mayhems Blitz Cleaning along w/ distilled


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xioticin*
> 
> Well lets see, I flushed both of my radiators (RX 360 v3 by XSPC) 3 times with just distilled water. Shook them and let them sit for 5 minutes each time. I flushed my EK Acetal block for my 780 and the XSPC Raystorm block for the CPU by running just distlled through it as best I could. I then hooked my entire loop up with Primochill Advanced LTR(the recommend good kind) and ran the loop with distilled water while I waited for my 780 to be RMA"D. *I got it back, hooked it all back up with the card, mixed the solution according to instructions on the back of the bottle with distilled,* and poured it into the loop using the same Primochill tubing for the feeding tube and a plastic funnel that is pretty generic.
> 
> The distilled water was some that I got in plastic milk/water jugs at Walmart that stated Distilled Water. The only concentrate that was added to the water was the Mayhem's X1 UV Clear Blue Concentrate in the 250 ml bottle.


Mixed what in, the X1? That's all kind of odd, I don't see anything in there that should eat away at UV effects. What did you use prior to this fill? CuSo4 (i.e. PT Nuke (Non pHN), I&H Deadwater, Mayhems Biocide Extreme) will eat away at UV effects over time. Benzyl Chloride (i.e. PT Nuke PHN) will OBLITERATE any and all dyes, UV or normal. CuSo4 usually leaves normal, non UV, dyes unaffected. Try flushing with a bicarb, and refilling. You should be able to reuse the X1, and just use some Clear/UV Blue to get the UV effects back. I've used mayhems Clear/UVBlue dye before, and it lasted around 8 months before it started to fade so it shouldn't fade away nearly as fast as you claim it did.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zarniwoop*
> 
> I am using three alphacool nexxos ut60 full copper radiators. I flushed them repeatedly with distiller water prior to installation. Do you think a drain, flush and refill would do the trick? If so, what should I use to flush/clean the radiators?


Blitz it. Alphacool is infamous for having extremely dirty rads. Good performing rads mind you, but dirty non the less.


----------



## DoktorTerror

Pastel Mint Green + Dye UV Yellow Green


----------



## Zarniwoop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Blitz it. Alphacool is infamous for having extremely dirty rads. Good performing rads mind you, but dirty non the less.


Would draining the loop and then running Blitx part 2 cleaner through it be sufficient seeing as the pastel coolant has effectively been flushing it for a week? I really don't want to break the loop down unless I have to as it was a bit fiddly in places to set up! I am glad I incorporated a drain to the loop when I designed it!


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zarniwoop*
> 
> Would draining the loop and then running Blitx part 2 cleaner through it be sufficient seeing as the pastel coolant has effectively been flushing it for a week? I really don't want to break the loop down unless I have to as it was a bit fiddly in places to set up! I am glad I incorporated a drain to the loop when I designed it!


If you have nickel plated products, then avoid it.


----------



## VSG

Blitz Part 2 is fine with nickel blocks, it is just part 1 that is for rads alone.


----------



## stickg1

Well in case you missed it in his first post, he said he is using UV LED's to illuminate his coolant, LED's don't work as well as cold cathodes for UV effects.


----------



## xioticin

That may be true to a degree about led vs cathode, but the leds were doing just fine with the effect at first.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> Pastel Mint Green + Dye UV Yellow Green


So that's how you got that shade o green for the mamba


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zarniwoop*
> 
> Would draining the loop and then running Blitx part 2 cleaner through it be sufficient seeing as the pastel coolant has effectively been flushing it for a week? I really don't want to break the loop down unless I have to as it was a bit fiddly in places to set up! I am glad I incorporated a drain to the loop when I designed it!


Nope, Part 2 is a surfactant and pH neutralizer. You need a solvent to strip surface flux from the radiator, the flux is what's messing up the pastel. If you run part two all you're doing is suspending everything that's already been stripped. Most flux is water soluble but it takes a LONG TIME to completely remove it from the surface without a solvent, so if you just ran part 2 then filled chances are flux will still leech its way into your loop and wack out your pastel again. Sorry to burst your bubble like that.


----------



## xioticin

After coming home and having an idea, I made a little experiment by removing the loop completely and putting some distilled and the clear UV blue into a mason jar. I placed it into the case to see if it would come to the same fate.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









As you can see, the UV effect has faded after only about 2 hours. The only thing I could find that could be close to an answer was Warning Notice from Mayhems "UV Clear Blue Dye". But that was back in 2012, and seems like revisions have been made to the formula since then.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xioticin*
> 
> After coming home and having an idea, I made a little experiment by removing the loop completely and putting some distilled and the clear UV blue into a mason jar. I placed it into the case to see if it would come to the same fate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, the UV effect has faded after only about 2 hours. The only thing I could find that could be close to an answer was Warning Notice from Mayhems "UV Clear Blue Dye". But that was back in 2012, and seems like revisions have been made to the formula since then.


Hmm something seems a little off....just out of curiosity (really reaching here too), how old is the distilled water? Has it had the lid off or not fully sealed for a long time?


----------



## xioticin

I would say that the distilled has been only open for 1.5 weeks, the cap has been on it whenever it has not been in use. I have 2 other gallons unopened I could try if need be.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xioticin*
> 
> I would say that the distilled has been only open for 1.5 weeks, the cap has been on it whenever it has not been in use. I have 2 other gallons unopened I could try if need be.


1.5 weeks with the cap on shouldn't be an issue. Like I said, I was reaching pretty far on that one. Also, even if it was contaminated or had become acidic, I the effect would still probably last more than 2hr, lol.

Mayhem is pretty regular on the forum, however, I'd still recommend sending him a PM or email if you haven't already. He is really good about making sure everything is sorted out and that you are happy with his products


----------



## Raul-7

Get a TDS meter.

I use RO water with a TDS of 5-10 with no issues.


----------



## QAKE

Hello, just wanted to ask your help to the color choice (accent color and mayhems pastel color) for my next 2 mods









There is a poll HERE


----------



## Zarniwoop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Nope, Part 2 is a surfactant and pH neutralizer. You need a solvent to strip surface flux from the radiator, the flux is what's messing up the pastel. If you run part two all you're doing is suspending everything that's already been stripped. Most flux is water soluble but it takes a LONG TIME to completely remove it from the surface without a solvent, so if you just ran part 2 then filled chances are flux will still leech its way into your loop and wack out your pastel again. Sorry to burst your bubble like that.


That's OK, a straight answer is always best!

So I now have two further questions, if I decide to live with the colour change and do nothing, am I likely to get any clogging issues with my blocks from the dissolved flux?.

Is there anything else I can run though the loop (without taking it apart) to try to remove some of this flux that won't damage my nickel plated blocks? I think I might know what the answer is going to be and I don't think I am going to like it!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zarniwoop*
> 
> That's OK, a straight answer is always best!
> 
> So I now have two further questions*, if I decide to live with the colour change and do nothing, am I likely to get any clogging issues with my blocks from the dissolved flux?.*
> 
> Is there anything else I can run though the loop (without taking it apart) to try to remove some of this flux that won't damage my nickel plated blocks? I think I might know what the answer is going to be and I don't think I am going to like it!


*There should be no issue with clogging, but the color change is likely to progress till you get a brownish red color. If you switch to a non red X1 coolant you shouldn't have any issues with flux so that's always an option if you're too lazy to dissemble. I know I'd be too lazy to disassemble after finally getting my loop put together.








*

NOPE! The thickness of most nickle plated blocks is deplorable, around 15 microns. Any type of solvent strong enough to strip flux in a timely fashion will mess with nickle plating. You /MIGHT/ be able to get away with lemon juice/water 1:4 ratio but that would be a complete gamble, and I wouldn't risk it.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xioticin*
> 
> After coming home and having an idea, I made a little experiment by removing the loop completely and putting some distilled and the clear UV blue into a mason jar. I placed it into the case to see if it would come to the same fate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, the UV effect has faded after only about 2 hours. The only thing I could find that could be close to an answer was Warning Notice from Mayhems "UV Clear Blue Dye". But that was back in 2012, and seems like revisions have been made to the formula since then.


Ouch, ugh, my head, this hurts my brains... That's REALLY strange. I had mine in for 8 months before it faded as much as yours is. When did you order that dye, and does it have a date for when it was made?


----------



## Zarniwoop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> *There should be no issue with clogging, but the color change is likely to progress till you get a brownish red color. If you switch to a non red X1 coolant you shouldn't have any issues with flux so that's always an option if you're too lazy to dissemble. I know I'd be too lazy to disassemble after finally getting my loop put together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> NOPE! The thickness of most nickle plated blocks is deplorable, around 15 microns. Any type of solvent strong enough to strip flux in a timely fashion will mess with nickle plating. You /MIGHT/ be able to get away with lemon juice/water 1:4 ratio but that would be a complete gamble, and I wouldn't risk it.


Thanks for the advice. You mention non red X1 coolant, does this also follow for non red pastel coolant or would it affect any colour pastel?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> I believe so but I'm not 100% certain. Pastel did. Maybe someone can look at their Aurora premix bottle?
> 
> I think he also mentioned that all premixes would be Aurora 2. You'd need to ask him or your re-seller to be sure


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> *There should be no issue with clogging, but the color change is likely to progress till you get a brownish red color. If you switch to a non red X1 coolant you shouldn't have any issues with flux so that's always an option if you're too lazy to dissemble. I know I'd be too lazy to disassemble after finally getting my loop put together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> NOPE! The thickness of most nickle plated blocks is deplorable, around 15 microns. Any type of solvent strong enough to strip flux in a timely fashion will mess with nickle plating. You /MIGHT/ be able to get away with lemon juice/water 1:4 ratio but that would be a complete gamble, and I wouldn't risk it.


so we shouldnt use blitz part2 with ek nickel plating?


----------



## Newtocooling

Only Blitz part one is the one to worry about, but part one is used when you first buy your rads and they get cleaned outside the loop. Part two I believe has no restrictions on the metal types.

Here is a great review and guide on how to use the kit by a very smart guy Nam.

http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4944-Mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-kit!!!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zarniwoop*
> 
> Thanks for the advice. You mention non red X1 coolant, does this also follow for non red pastel coolant or would it affect any colour pastel?


Flux will mess up pastel, X1 is a very versatile coolant. You'd have to try pretty hard to mess up X1 if you mix it properly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> so we shouldnt use blitz part2 with ek nickel plating?


Blitz part 1 is a very strong acid, it will rip nickle plating off a block. Blitz part 2 is a surfactant and alkaline, it will not effect nickle plating in the slightest. It will suspend any loose particles in the loop, and neutralize any left over anything that might wack out the pH. Part 2 is fine for nickle plating, part 1 will obliterate it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Only Blitz part one is the one to worry about, but part one is used when you first buy your rads and they get cleaned outside the loop. Part two I believe has no restrictions on the metal types.
> 
> Here is a great review and guide on how to use the kit by a very smart guy Nam.
> 
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4944-Mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-kit!!!


Ooooo, specialtech did a review on it! I like it!


----------



## cyphon

Mayhem, are your rads going to have the standard 2-ports or are you doing the similar thing as alphacool wuth the multi ports?


----------



## VSG

It was mentioned it would be standard 2 ports.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It was mentioned it would be standard 2 ports.


Cool, thanks


----------



## stickg1

I need skinny rads with multiple ports. I was so close to getting a Z77-I Deluxe with a monoblock the other day from the marketplace but it just seemed like a waste. Considering my ASRock is already capable of 5GHz on my 3570K. I'm trying to plan my next move, because lets be honest, it's been weeks. But I'm pretty happy with the current setup. My super purple X1 is holding up just fine.


----------



## Mayhem

xspx do some sh skinny rads and they look the db


----------



## stickg1

Not a fan of XSPC rads. Not an XSPC fan in general. I have one of their GPU blocks right now but it was the best deal I could find on an aging card (7970).

Anyway, do you have any of the lab rats working on some Mayhems Tubing? I think that would be a good move along with the rads.


----------



## VSG

Their AX and RX V3 rads are really, really good though. AX only comes in 2 ports option, not sure of the RX V3.


----------



## stickg1

What I need to do, is do a big rig build. With my little tiny guy I can't fit all the fatty rads. I think the first step is getting the wallet fat first.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What I need to do, is do a big rig build. With my little tiny guy I can't fit all the fatty rads. I think the first step is getting the wallet fat first.


I sense a Magnum tx10 build


----------



## stickg1

We'll I'm currently leasing half of @geggeg's TX10, and shesh, talk about noisy neighbors.









I think I would baby step into that with something like a M8 or SM8.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> We'll I'm currently leasing half of @geggeg's TX10, and shesh, talk about noisy neighbors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I would baby step into that with something like a M8 or SM8.


Lol yeah...oooooooorrrrrrrrr go big And don't look back. Imagine all the purple fluid you could have


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> We'll I'm currently leasing half of @geggeg's TX10, and shesh, talk about noisy neighbors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I would baby step into that with something like a M8 or SM8.


Don't come a knockin'


----------



## xioticin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Their AX and RX V3 rads are really, really good though. AX only comes in 2 ports option, not sure of the RX V3.


XSPC RX 360 V3 has 4 ports. All ports located on the same end though. I am thoroughly enjoying them so far!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xioticin*
> 
> XSPC RX 360 V3 has 4 ports. All ports located on the same end though. I am thoroughly enjoying them so far!


The same end is becuase it is dual pass radiator . If you look at single pass, those have opposite ends. Then mayhem will have quad pass rads with world domination soon to follow.

The multiple ports on one end are useful depending on case. For my m10 I am working on, it'd be great because I could have my rads in the top compartment connected in the top compartment and then connect to the rest of the loop below without drilling additional pass thru holes


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Only Blitz part one is the one to worry about, but part one is used when you first buy your rads and they get cleaned outside the loop. Part two I believe has no restrictions on the metal types.
> 
> Here is a great review and guide on how to use the kit by a very smart guy Nam.
> 
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4944-Mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-kit!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Flux will mess up pastel, X1 is a very versatile coolant. You'd have to try pretty hard to mess up X1 if you mix it properly.
> Blitz part 1 is a very strong acid, it will rip nickle plating off a block. Blitz part 2 is a surfactant and alkaline, it will not effect nickle plating in the slightest. It will suspend any loose particles in the loop, and neutralize any left over anything that might wack out the pH. Part 2 is fine for nickle plating, part 1 will obliterate it.
> Ooooo, specialtech did a review on it! I like it!


thanks both i will try as soon as i get the kit


----------



## Zarniwoop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Flux will mess up pastel, X1 is a very versatile coolant. You'd have to try pretty hard to mess up X1 if you mix it properly.


Looks like I will be going with X1 for the time being then! As a matter of interest, why would the red X1 coolant be affected by the flux and not other colours?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zarniwoop*
> 
> Looks like I will be going with X1 for the time being then! As a matter of interest, why would the red X1 coolant be affected by the flux and not other colours?


Pastel is effected more by pH imbalance than other fluids. The flux in the rads causes the fluids pH to be slightly acidic.

As ZytheEKS said, the x1 is very hard to mess up


----------



## Zarniwoop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Pastel is effected more by pH imbalance than other fluids. The flux in the rads causes the fluids pH to be slightly acidic.
> 
> As ZytheEKS said, the x1 is very hard to mess up


Would the red X1 be affected?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zarniwoop*
> 
> Would the red X1 be affected?


Should not have issues. I'd still recommend cleaning out the flux and rads in general before filling tho. Even if it doesn't change your fluid color it can cause small gunk ups in your blocks.


----------



## Newtocooling

I had to drain my loop to fix a few things I didn't like, and I have a few bottles of System Prep that came with my Primochill tubing, even though I had no problem with either coolant X-1 or Pastel, is it a bad idea to flush with this stuff while I wait for a few parts to rebuild?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zarniwoop*
> 
> Looks like I will be going with X1 for the time being then! As a matter of interest, why would the red X1 coolant be affected by the flux and not other colours?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zarniwoop*
> 
> Would the red X1 be affected?


It's not the X1 per-say, it's the red dye. All X1 is clear X1 with dyes premixed in. Red has been known to mess up from and turn brownish with flux. Most other dyes are entirely unaffected.


----------



## Zarniwoop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It's not the X1 per-say, it's the red dye. All X1 is clear X1 with dyes premixed in. Red has been known to mess up from and turn brownish with flux. Most other dyes are entirely unaffected.


Thanks for that information, it is useful to know. It looks like I will change to another colour, unfortunately I have got red braided cables which could look a bit strange with another colour; never mind!


----------



## Zarniwoop

If changing from pastel to X1, do I need to run some part 2 through the loop or will flushing with de-ionised water be sufficient?


----------



## Mayhem

Tap water then Di water will do the trick.


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So that's how you got that shade o green for the mamba


is the perfect blend with the lights


----------



## pompss

Thanks To Mick And Myahem's For the Set of Dyes











Now i can start mixing the color and create something COOL !!!








Will update some picture soon !!!


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ye it is A2 we renamed the label just to help people out.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Mick,
> 
> I need your confirmation on this.
> 
> I purchased 3 bottles of Supernova and 3 bottles of Tharsis Red concentrate from PPCS on May 12th. I emailed them to asking if it was the new formula and they replied:
> 
> 
> 
> Here below is the bottles I received. Only the Supernova (left) has the little "'New Improved" bubble. Tharsis Red (right) doesn't have the bubble, so I assume they must have instead sent me the old Tharsis Red formula?
> If so, I really need to have this exchanged as I'm almost ready to fill my loops.
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Buehlar Send me a Photo of all 3 bottles please and your full name, address and telephone number and ill replace what ever needs replacing. Its not PPCs fault they are using up what stock they have and maybe a bottle some how got mixed in.
Click to expand...

Received the Aurora 2 today...right on the label... Thanks Mick!








I can't wait to try it out...soon...very soon









I'll be sure to mention you in my log!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Received the Aurora 2 today...right on the label... Thanks Mick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't wait to try it out...soon...very soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be sure to mention you in my log!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice ! also i emailed ppcs and they told me there are no production dates on the pastel premixes bottles.


----------



## Mayhem

yes there is right next to the right hand side barcode not that it matter as they have a shelf life of 5 years.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> nice ! also i emailed ppcs and they told me there are no production dates on the pastel premixes bottles.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> yes there is right next to the right hand side barcode not that it matter as they have a shelf life of 5 years.


Yep...all the Mayhem's I've received thus far have this date. I think that some of their ataff just don't know where or what to look for.


----------



## pompss

Just Ordered 3xAurora 2 1 lt supernova white form frozen cpu.
They change the name in the web site Also.
Will post some picture soon.
How many drops of dye's for aurora 2 ??


----------



## stickg1

What color are you trying to achieve and how many liters of coolant are we trying to dye?


----------



## pompss

For now i try to do some deep dark red


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> For now i try to do some deep dark red


Red dye, and just a touch of blue if you're trying to reach blood red.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Red dye, and just a touch of blue if you're trying to reach blood red.


Yep. The blue is the magic that everyone doesn't think about


----------



## Deedaz

can anyone tell me how dark the aurora blue is? Ive seen vids on youtube and some seem really light and others a bit darker. Im going for a slightly darker blue.
thanks!


----------



## gdubc

I'm not sure how dark it is to begin with but you can always add more dye. I want miami dolphins colors so I will have to dye the clear to get orange and aqua green.


----------



## Mayhem

If your using alpha cool rads it wont take long unless you clean them rads out for it to go from red to deep red to brown.


----------



## Mayhem




----------



## VSG

Nice logo









Going to guess a smooth finish on the rads similar to the exterior of that logo?


----------



## Mayhem

yup that's right. Its a very thin paint to keep the performance up. How ever the logo may still go though some changes as may the paint work...


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I'm not sure how dark it is to begin with but you can always add more dye. I want miami dolphins colors so I will have to dye the clear to get orange and aqua green.


Hell yeah man, go Dolphins!!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*


Love it


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice logo!!! We still have the "Mayhems drop" incorporated in the new logo!!!

I love it!!


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If your using alpha cool rads it wont take long unless you clean them rads out for it to go from red to deep red to brown.


i'll be using alphacool rads and want to to achieve this blue.
http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/73352-project-armada-watercooled-define-r4-titanium-ek-waterblocks-completed-final-photos/

Primoflex Adv LRT Clear. What would be a nice option to buy?

By the way, can i use this biocide? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11744/ex-liq-154/IandH_Dead-Water_Copper_Sulfate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive_-_15_mL.html
I have it from months ago and i don't know if its ok to use with mayhems


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Nice logo!!! We still have the "Mayhems drop" incorporated in the new logo!!!
> 
> I love it!!


Yep, looks like a Ying-Yang


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> i'll be using alphacool rads and want to to achieve this blue.
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/73352-project-armada-watercooled-define-r4-titanium-ek-waterblocks-completed-final-photos/
> 
> Primoflex Adv LRT Clear. What would be a nice option to buy?
> 
> By the way, can i use this biocide? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11744/ex-liq-154/IandH_Dead-Water_Copper_Sulfate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive_-_15_mL.html
> I have it from months ago and i don't know if its ok to use with mayhems


You can use it with Mayhems dyes, if you are using Pastel, Aurora, X1, XT1, then no you don't add any biocides.


----------



## Mayhem

It was made around the ying yang logo "hot and cold, fire and water" ect ect


----------



## DarthBaggins

well my blue arrived and added it to my red, and definitely got the shade I wanted with the two:


----------



## Acesi7

I ordered 2 bottles of Mayhems Tharsis Red 1ltr premix. Both of the bottles I received have the 'new and improved' logo on the bottom. I ordered them last week.

So either I was very lucky of PPC's no longer have any Aurora 1 stock, and everything should be the new gear.


----------



## cyphon

Any idea on an a release date for the rads. Trying to decide if my build will not be too far along to switch over to your line or not. Really want to


----------



## Mayhem

Were hopeing that they will be with us with the next 30 days (hopefully). With whats happened in china last night we don't know if that will effect us.

Mick


----------



## Mayhem

This is how were placing our logo on the rads. On the back side its been


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acesi7*
> 
> I ordered 2 bottles of Mayhems Tharsis Red 1ltr premix. Both of the bottles I received have the 'new and improved' logo on the bottom. I ordered them last week.
> 
> So either I was very lucky of PPC's no longer have any Aurora 1 stock, and everything should be the new gear.


Performance PCs is now advertising "Aurora II" on their website.
All 3 flavors. Red, white and blue are available in both the 1ltr pre-mix and concentrate.








...and purple

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=Mayhems+Aurora+II


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Were hopeing that they will be with us with the next 30 days (hopefully). With whats happened in china last night we don't know if that will effect us.
> 
> Mick


Awesome! I think I may be able to make the switch in this build then







bring on the quad pass glory
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> This is how were placing our logo on the rads. On the back side its been
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Bout what I thought it'd be. The new logo is awesome


----------



## Acesi7

My bottles of the mayhems blitz pro say to leave step 1 in for 6-12 hours in the rads is that safe?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acesi7*
> 
> My bottles of the mayhems blitz pro say to leave step 1 in for 6-12 hours in the rads is that safe?


Yep, that is what you are supposed to do


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acesi7*
> 
> My bottles of the mayhems blitz pro say to leave step 1 in for 6-12 hours in the rads is that safe?


i think they reduced that time to 2 hours


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i think they reduced that time to 2 hours


I think it depends on which version and concentration you have. I believe The ones he sells in the UK are a stronger version that are 2 hr time. I think he had to weaken it to get it through US customs, so if you have bought it from PPCs then it think it is still 6 hr time frame...I could be wrong on that, but I seem to remember something like that being said.


----------



## VSG

Follow the instructions on your bottle, that will be the most updated one for the region. The US one is 1 L total and 6-12 hours, elsewhere is 2 L total for 2 hours.


----------



## ACallander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> This is how were placing our logo on the rads. On the back side its been


I guess being a graphic/web designer I have an issue but it's probably just me because I'm weird. I love the logo but I'd prefer the logo offset and not centered. I see many rads with it centered that it would provide a unique "change" that would differ placement wise from all the other rads with the centered logo placement.

To me I think it would provide a nice "flow" feel (Yes, I know that is a play on words) to place the logo where its on the left side of the left side of the rad and the right side of the right side of the rad. So that way it provides a opposing logo set (more of a flow and ying/yang) styled integration of the logo.


----------



## Mayhem

Weve already started production and its a bit late now. But yeh i understand that and we will look at that and maybe get a draft one made up.

As for Blitz the Read me in the Box is the most up to date one and yup due to USA restrictions we had to adjust the mixture to be a bit weaker so it need to be in much longer.


----------



## stickg1

So the new rads are about 60mm thick right? And are available in what varieties?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> So the new rads are about 60mm thick right? And are available in what varieties?


Believe it was 60mm thickness in 240 and 360


----------



## stickg1

Hmmm, I'm trying to find a way to squeeze one in my Mercury S3.


----------



## Acesi7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yep, that is what you are supposed to do


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i think they reduced that time to 2 hours


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I think it depends on which version and concentration you have. I believe The ones he sells in the UK are a stronger version that are 2 hr time. I think he had to weaken it to get it through US customs, so if you have bought it from PPCs then it think it is still 6 hr time frame...I could be wrong on that, but I seem to remember something like that being said.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Weve already started production and its a bit late now. But yeh i understand that and we will look at that and maybe get a draft one made up.
> 
> As for Blitz the Read me in the Box is the most up to date one and yup due to USA restrictions we had to adjust the mixture to be a bit weaker so it need to be in much longer.


Amazing. The correct answer or your money back! Thanks guys for the quick and accurate responses. Will start the flush and leave it for 10 hours. Bottle states between 6-12 and these rads had dragon ice in them and were emptied and then sat around for a while without cleaning, so they could use the extra cleaning I'd say.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acesi7*
> 
> Amazing. The correct answer or your money back! Thanks guys for the quick and accurate responses. Will start the flush and leave it for 10 hours. Bottle states between 6-12 and these rads had dragon ice in them and were emptied and then sat around for a while without cleaning, so they could use the extra cleaning I'd say.


I read that dragon ice cream the first time, and was disappointed when I had to do a double take. :*(

XD


----------



## Mayhem

63mm is the accurate measurement for the depth of the rad, we are doing 240mm and 360mm to start with how ever we are testing out a 480mm version and if it performs well enough we will do a limited run of 480mm rads.

We wont be doing 140mm 280mm ect ect version as the 120mm version out performs any 140mm rad out there all ready and there are no good fans at the 140mm size. We will not be making a 120mm cos there all just pure crap. Any user needing a 120mm on its own would be better off air cooling.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 63mm is the accurate measurement for the depth of the rad, we are doing 240mm and 360mm to start with how ever we are testing out a 480mm version and if it performs well enough we will do a limited run of 480mm rads.
> 
> We wont be doing 140mm 280mm ect ect version as the 120mm version out performs any 140mm rad out there all ready and *there are no good fans at the 140mm size*. We will not be making a 120mm cos there all just pure crap. Any user needing a 120mm on its own would be better off air cooling.


Phantek makes a pretty solid 140mm fan, but the pickings are indeed very slim.


----------



## VSG

Also, Cougar


----------



## The EX1

Corsair is also making an SP version of their 140mm fans.


----------



## llamaegg

So we're looking at about a month, eh? I guess I've waited this long to start my new loop, might as well wait a little longer to see what you guys can bring!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> So we're looking at about a month, eh? I guess I've waited this long to start my new loop, *might as well wait a little longer to see what you guys can bring*!


world domination


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> world domination


What are we doing tonight Mayhems? Same thing we do every night, watercoolers, try to take over the world!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> What are we doing tonight Mayhems? Same thing we do every night, watercoolers, try to take over the world!


We'll lower the worlds global temperatures forcing governments world wide to pay a ransom or we'll all get free cooling!


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 63mm is the accurate measurement for the depth of the rad, we are doing 240mm and 360mm to start with how ever we are testing out a 480mm version and if it performs well enough we will do a limited run of 480mm rads.
> 
> We wont be doing 140mm 280mm ect ect version as the 120mm version out performs any 140mm rad out there all ready and there are no good fans at the 140mm size. We will not be making a 120mm cos there all just pure crap. Any user needing a 120mm on its own would be better off air cooling.


hmm, i'm interested in 2x480 60mm, when it will be available?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm delicately definitely down for a couple 240's








Thinking on the thickness of the rad plus my delta, there's not going to be alot of space on the bottom or front of my case,lol


----------



## Mayhem

lol the 480 need testing first because we are using a quad pass, triple tube system we need to see what the flow is like with in the system. Our 360's put some 560's to shame but we've never tested a 480. When running thee system they have been optimised for high static pressure fans and D5's running at level 3 to 5.


----------



## VSG

Now I really want to try out your 480 and compare with the Monsta 480, AX480, SR1 560 and even the Mo.Ra that I have. I am guessing ~15-18 FPI here?


----------



## cyphon

soooooooooo, mayhem,
dyes....fluids....rads....dare we venture into blocks, fittings, or tubing???


----------



## ozzy1925

even though mayhems doesnt want to ship to my country and ignoring my emails,i paid 82.5$ for shipping (4x1liter premix +blitz pro) purchased from ppcs.I hope it is worth it


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> even though mayhems doesnt want to ship to my country and ignoring my emails,i paid 82.5$ for shipping (4x1liter premix +blitz pro) purchased from ppcs.I hope it is worth it


Try speaking to your customs who refuse to accept the liquids so we no longer bother wasting our time and your time. No matter how many emails you send we will not ship so we wont bother answering your email if you refuse to listen. Thats why we use resellers around the world.


----------



## z0ki

Reading back from around page 727-733 and it seem's like X1 would be better for alphacool rads and nickel blocks than what Pastel would be due to Flux.

As of right now, my system has 3 alphacool rads.. 2x 480's and 1x 240 monsta.. only cleaned them with hot distilled water etc, now it's just running DI & Liquid utopia, but hearing some bad stories about Pastel and alphacool rads if they are not cleaned properly.

So would i be better off going down the X1 route so I do not need to pull apart my acrylic build to clean the rads?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Reading back from around page 727-733 and it seem's like X1 would be better for alphacool rads and nickel blocks than what Pastel would be due to Flux.
> 
> As of right now, my system has 3 alphacool rads.. 2x 480's and 1x 240 monsta.. only cleaned them with hot distilled water etc, now it's just running DI & Liquid utopia, but hearing some bad stories about Pastel and alphacool rads if they are not cleaned properly.
> 
> So would i be better off going down the X1 route so I do not need to pull apart my acrylic build to clean the rads?


When switching fluids, you really should do a full flush and clean anyway. Especially when you are changing between fluid types with different intrinsic properties and chemical make ups.


----------



## z0ki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Reading back from around page 727-733 and it seem's like X1 would be better for alphacool rads and nickel blocks than what Pastel would be due to Flux.
> 
> As of right now, my system has 3 alphacool rads.. 2x 480's and 1x 240 monsta.. only cleaned them with hot distilled water etc, now it's just running DI & Liquid utopia, but hearing some bad stories about Pastel and alphacool rads if they are not cleaned properly.
> 
> So would i be better off going down the X1 route so I do not need to pull apart my acrylic build to clean the rads?
> 
> 
> 
> When switching fluids, you really should do a full flush and clean anyway. Especially when you are changing between fluid types with different intrinsic properties and chemical make ups.
Click to expand...

Yeah I understand a flush will be in order, but can I do it whilst my rig is intact? Flush the current fluid, and run just DI in it for an hour or so, flush, repeat 2-3 times then add x1? Would that be safe to do, and prepare me to add x1?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Yeah I understand a flush will be in order, but can I do it whilst my rig is intact? Flush the current fluid, and run just DI in it for an hour or so, flush, repeat 2-3 times then add x1? Would that be safe to do, and prepare me to add x1?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


Steer clear of red, and X1 shouldn't have any issues with those rads. On your next tear down a year or so out you might consider a proper cleaning.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Try speaking to your customs who refuse to accept the liquids so we no longer bother wasting our time and your time. No matter how many emails you send we will not ship so we wont bother answering your email if you refuse to listen. Thats why we use resellers around the world.


Ok now you listen,
then why your dude answered my email and told me ,they can try to send me if i want at the beginning?


After that i never heard of you.May be you told them not to but,if you care about customers you can send me an simple email and say.
Sorry, we have changed our mind and wont ship to you.
Then why should i bother?
But as far as i see, you have enough customers and dont care anymore.Thats a lesson for me.


----------



## Mayhem

We've paid for shipping 3 times to that country (approx £100 worth), and 3 times it got refused at customs ,We refunded the consumers who have had issues so thats 3x refunds to that country (after 3 times we simply just stop sending to the country).

Ive personally told sales not to ship any more and have removed shipping to the region for our site.

If some thing goes wrong we normally ship out a replacement, so in your case once again we cannot do that so we cannot support you, again thats why we shall not be selling to you country..


----------



## Zarniwoop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If your using alpha cool rads it wont take long unless you clean them rads out for it to go from red to deep red to brown.


About a week in my case!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> Yeah I understand a flush will be in order, but can I do it whilst my rig is intact? Flush the current fluid, and run just DI in it for an hour or so, flush, repeat 2-3 times then add x1? Would that be safe to do, and prepare me to add x1?


I am planning to do exactly that. I am going from red pastel to emerald green x1. A shame really as I really wanted red. I have some red pastel in reserve for when I can be bothered to break the loop down in the future







.


----------



## Acesi7

So is there any issue with leaving step 2 of the Mayhems Blitz in the system (with pump running) for more than 24 hours? I was planning on leaving it running for around 30-36 hours, which is when I'll be home from work. Or is that too long?


----------



## White Wind

Hi, I'm planning my liquid, so distilled water + this anti-corrosive ( AntiCorro-Fluid ) + Mayhems Biocide... my loop will have copper, brass, acetal and I guess some plastics ( details : EK copper-acetal cpu block, Koolance COV-RP450 Rev2.1 Top, Phobya 1260 ext. rad, Phobya Balancer res, BitFenix Z-Multi res, Primoflex LRT tubing, ModMyToys fittings )
Do you think I'm good to go with that coolant ?

Also, are there two Mayhems biocides ? one labelled Biocide and one labelled Biocide Extreme ? or are those the same one ?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acesi7*
> 
> So is there any issue with leaving step 2 of the Mayhems Blitz in the system (with pump running) for more than 24 hours? I was planning on leaving it running for around 30-36 hours, which is when I'll be home from work. Or is that too long?


24 hrs is the recommended. Not sure if leaving it longer would cause any issues or not.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *White Wind*
> 
> Hi, I'm planning my liquid, so distilled water + this anti-corrosive ( AntiCorro-Fluid ) + Mayhems Biocide... my loop will have copper, brass, acetal and I guess some plastics ( details : EK copper-acetal cpu block, Koolance COV-RP450 Rev2.1 Top, Phobya 1260 ext. rad, Phobya Balancer res, BitFenix Z-Multi res, Primoflex LRT tubing, ModMyToys fittings )
> Do you think I'm good to go with that coolant ?
> 
> Also, are there two Mayhems biocides ? one labelled Biocide and one labelled Biocide Extreme ? or are those the same one ?


It's all the same biocides extreme is the correct name.

Acetal is actually a plastic, and it won't factor into your mixed metals. Sounds like you will only have copper and brass which do not really react with each other. You really should only need the biocides extreme and the DI water.


----------



## White Wind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It's all the same biocides extreme is the correct name.


Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Acetal is actually a plastic


Didn't know that !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Sounds like you will only have copper and brass which do not really react with each other. You really should only need the biocides extreme and the DI water.


Yes that's what I read, but still some say that corrosion will happen no matter what ( not "strongly", so no big deal I guess ) so I thought I could add that anti-corro fluid, it may slow that natural corrosion down, be it a little one to begin with or not... but well, I just don't want that that additive do more harm than good...


----------



## Martinm210

Don't forget the solder holding your brass and copper rads together with direct metal to metal contact has "tin" in it.

While rare, I lost a HWlabs SR1 due to corrosion by letting distilled sit in a test rig a few months. Corrosion potential is certainly there in what many percieve as copper/brass only loops. Typically most fittings are nickel plated and you radiators are also usually solder constructed so you have much more than just brass and copper. Corrosion is usually assocoated with plating because plating is soo thin it because visually noticeable at very small thicknesses.

I still like distilled only loops myself with unplated copper blocks, but I fully understand there are risks involved in not running a corrosion blocker and not going to freak when I see some corrosion, it is everywhere at some level. The question is really how slow and will the corrosion become noticeable before EOL of the parts being used. A corrosion blocker just slows the inevitable process down.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *White Wind*
> 
> Thanks
> Didn't know that !
> Yes that's what I read, but still some say that corrosion will happen no matter what ( not "strongly", so no big deal I guess ) so I thought I could add that anti-corro fluid, it may slow that natural corrosion down, be it a little one to begin with or not... but well, I just don't want that that additive do more harm than good...


To see the likelihood of corrosion, you can use the anodic index chart: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

Basically, you take the first metal voltage and subtract the second metal voltage. For insanely harsh environments (like an ocean), it shouldn't be more than 0.15V difference. Copper and Brass have a difference of 0.05V. This is why there are so many parts in WC components that make use of brass and copper....it is extremely hard for those two to corrode, even in the worst case environments. Nickel is also commonly used because it is 0.05V from copper and 0.1V from brass, both very acceptable.

As an anti-case, take aluminum for example. The difference between that and Copper is 0.55V, which can corrode in even very controlled environments....this is why you should never buy aluminum WC parts, unless EVERYTHING is aluminum.

I think that you would be ok with using the anti-corrosive anyway, but I still do not think you need it. Additionally, if you want performance and something with all the biocides and anti-corrosives in it, why not just get the X1 fluid? You can just put that directly in there and it will last in your system for a year or so without maintenance. DI Water + additives you will need to change every 6mo or so. Performance wise it is such a small difference between it and DI water that you would never notice it.

EDIT: As Martin pointed out, you do have the solder to worry about (always forget about that). Everything above still basically applies tho. I still personally recommend X1 since it has all you need in the exact ratios you need


----------



## White Wind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Don't forget the solder holding your brass and copper rads together with direct metal to metal contact has "tin" in it.
> 
> While rare, I lost a HWlabs SR1 due to corrosion by letting distilled sit in a test rig a few months.


Yes I read about that on your site ! Thanks for being in first line and taking the bullets so WE can dodge them x) and learn !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> Corrosion potential is certainly there in what many percieve as copper/brass only loops. Typically most fittings are nickel plated and you radiators are also usually solder constructed so you have much more than just brass and copper. Corrosion is usually assocoated with plating because plating is soo thin it because visually noticeable at very small thicknesses.


Yes I am aware of that thank to your researches and your site, that constituted one more reason for me to consider an anti-corrosive additive.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martinm210*
> 
> I still like distilled only loops myself with unplated copper blocks, but I fully understand there are risks involved in not running a corrosion blocker and not going to freak when I see some corrosion, it is everywhere at some level. The question is really how slow and will the corrosion become noticeable before EOL of the parts being used. A corrosion blocker just slows the inevitable process down.


That still encourages me to use some... unless you say otherwise 'cause you see a possible drawback to it ?

I had also in mind to maybe use a sacrificial anode ( made of tin I guess ). Did you experiment on it or tried one ?
Though I thought that if it corrodes, then maybe that could bring small particles of corroded tin into the loop, I don't know...


----------



## White Wind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> To see the likelihood of corrosion, you can use the anodic index chart: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
> 
> Basically, you take the first metal voltage and subtract the second metal voltage. For insanely harsh environments (like an ocean), it shouldn't be more than 0.15V difference. Copper and Brass have a difference of 0.05V. This is why there are so many parts in WC components that make use of brass and copper....it is extremely hard for those two to corrode, even in the worst case environments. Nickel is also commonly used because it is 0.05V from copper and 0.1V from brass, both very acceptable.
> 
> As an anti-case, take aluminum for example. The difference between that and Copper is 0.55V, which can corrode in even very controlled environments....this is why you should never buy aluminum WC parts, unless EVERYTHING is aluminum.


Yup, already saw that table, there's good info in it for anyone who wants to watercool
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I think that you would be ok with using the anti-corrosive anyway, but I still do not think you need it. Additionally, if you want performance and something with all the biocides and anti-corrosives in it, why not just get the X1 fluid? You can just put that directly in there and it will last in your system for a year or so without maintenance. DI Water + additives you will need to change every 6mo or so. Performance wise it is such a small difference between it and DI water that you would never notice it.


I was about to answer "Because of price", but I didn't know that a proprietary coolant could be replaced like two times less often than a diy one...
That will make me rethink about it and recalculate prices
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I still personally recommend X1 since it has all you need in the exact ratios you need


At first ( before opting for distilled + anticorro fluid + mayhems biocide ) I was hesitating between that diy and distilled + Mayhems XT-1... you think that can be recommended ? and well, replaced only once a year ?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *White Wind*
> 
> Hi, I'm planning my liquid, *so distilled water + this anti-corrosive ( AntiCorro-Fluid ) + Mayhems Biocide...* my loop will have copper, brass, acetal and I guess some plastics ( details : EK copper-acetal cpu block, Koolance COV-RP450 Rev2.1 Top, Phobya 1260 ext. rad, Phobya Balancer res, BitFenix Z-Multi res, Primoflex LRT tubing, ModMyToys fittings )
> Do you think I'm good to go with that coolant ?
> 
> Also, are there two Mayhems biocides ? one labelled Biocide and one labelled Biocide Extreme ? or are those the same one ?


If you mix all those together you might have to hit your cpu block with an orbital nope, because it's going to clogged up. That concentrate is ethylene glycol based. Mayhems Biocide Extreme is your basic CuSo4 based biocide. E.G. and CuSo4 have a chem reaction to eachother and make the infamous gunk. That's NOT gunna be a fun thing to clean out, so I wouldn't mix them all.


----------



## Newtocooling

I know I"ve already asked about this before, but a few things have changed in my build. I recently began a conversion to acrylic and wanted to show off my GPU loop for a little while. The loop has two UT60 480 rads and two EK 780 ful CSQ blocks, I know Aurora is not supposed to be used with these rads, but will it be detrimental to the loop for a few months to have it running, then rinse with distilled and go back to pastel?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I know I"ve already asked about this before, but a few things have changed in my build. I recently began a conversion to acrylic and wanted to show off my GPU loop for a little while. The loop has two UT60 480 rads and two EK 780 ful CSQ blocks, I know Aurora is not supposed to be used with these rads, but will it be detrimental to the loop for a few months to have it running, then rinse with distilled and go back to pastel?


Unless you're using it for a show build, I'd just fill with distilled then put in whatever fluid when it arrives. UT60s are huge, and you'll end up with nano particles everywhere in it. Then you may have metallic residue everywhere when you fill with pastel. On a side note be sure to have those Alphacool rads blitzed if you're using pastel.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Unless you're using it for a show build, I'd just fill with distilled then put in whatever fluid when it arrives. UT60s are huge, and you'll end up with nano particles everywhere in it. Then you may have metallic residue everywhere when you fill with pastel. On a side note be sure to have those Alphacool rads blitzed if you're using pastel.


Thanks for the tips!







GetToTheChoppa gave me the inspiration to go acrylic, I was nervous at first, as I've only worked with soft tubing so far. I really like the look of my build so much better now that I just wanted to see some Aurora going through it.







I'll skip it then as Pastel was running no problems, I had already blitzed my rads with the kit a few months ago. Is it a problem to just run distilled with no additives for a few weeks, just in case I may want to change a few parts on the loop possibly?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Thanks for the tips!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GetToTheChoppa gave me the inspiration to go acrylic, I was nervous at first, as I've only worked with soft tubing so far. I really like the look of my build so much better now that I just wanted to see some Aurora going through it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll skip it then as Pastel was running no problems, I had already blitzed my rads with the kit a few months ago. Is it a problem to just run distilled with no additives for a few weeks, just in case I may want to change a few parts on the loop possibly?


Should be an issue for a few weeks, I'd drop a silver dollar or something in there just to be sure, but I've said it before and I'll say it again: I'm a bit more on the paranoid side of cooling safety.


----------



## Br0k3nLiNk

After having my Mayhems Pastel dye in for nearly a year now, i cant understand why people worry about 'problems'?! lol...

Before i bought the dye i was told, by more or less everyone, it would go horrible in weeks, clog my blocks and deposit everywhere.... I can safely say this is not true at all.

I barely employ a decent cleaning ethic when redoing my loop. Drain, flush through with de-ionised/distilled water, maybe run the loop with some foam or wool in a line so that it collects lumps. Refill the loop.

My loop consists of all different sorts of metal - brass, copper and nickel. Awesome dyes, cant wait to change up the colour of it all again or add a loop to another of my boxes!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Br0k3nLiNk*
> 
> After having my Mayhems Pastel dye in for nearly a year now, i cant understand why people worry about 'problems'?! lol...
> 
> Before i bought the dye i was told, by more or less everyone, it would go horrible in weeks, clog my blocks and deposit everywhere.... I can safely say this is not true at all.
> 
> I barely employ a decent cleaning ethic when redoing my loop. Drain, flush through with de-ionised/distilled water, maybe run the loop with some foam or wool in a line so that it collects lumps. Refill the loop.
> 
> My loop consists of all different sorts of metal - brass, copper and nickel. Awesome dyes, cant wait to change up the colour of it all again or add a loop to another of my boxes!


The people that say those things are trolls or have no idea what they are doing, lol. Any type of clogging or gunking up is cause by improper setup, using incompatible additives together, or tubing leaking plasticizer. None of which are really the fluids fault. It just so happens that the dye dyes the gunk and everyone blames the dye/fluid.

Especially with pastel, the particles are on the nano scale, order of magnitude is like 1e-9. It would take one hell of a dead spot to allow so many particles at the nano level to fall out of suspension at just the right spot and cause a block in something like a water block, fitting, or tube that is mostly on the order of magnitude of a millimeter, 1e-3. Pastel has also demonstrated it. An last in system for 3yrs with not issues, lol


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Br0k3nLiNk*
> 
> After having my Mayhems Pastel dye in for nearly a year now, i cant understand why people worry about 'problems'?! lol...
> 
> Before i bought the dye i was told, by more or less everyone, it would go horrible in weeks, clog my blocks and deposit everywhere.... I can safely say this is not true at all.
> 
> I barely employ a decent cleaning ethic when redoing my loop. Drain, flush through with de-ionised/distilled water, maybe run the loop with some foam or wool in a line so that it collects lumps. Refill the loop.
> 
> My loop consists of all different sorts of metal - brass, copper and nickel. Awesome dyes, cant wait to change up the colour of it all again or add a loop to another of my boxes!


People who claim that the dyes are responsible for the effects you listed are normally just repeating whatever they read on forums







. The dye rumors started when people began seeing colored junk in their blocks. The gunk was the same color as their coolant and dye (duh) so they claimed that the dye itself was responsible. The truth is that 99% of the time the gunk in their loop is actually plastisizer from their tubing. Plasticizer is normally white but the dye in the loop stains it. Dye that loses its color is often too diluted or the Ph of the liquid in the loop is out of whack. Dyes themselves do not cause these issues.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Sounds about right, so far I've had zero issues with the dye I've introduced to my loop.


----------



## Mayhem

We still get blamed now a days but we just laugh it off. All we can do is educate and prove what were talking about. Each to there own


----------



## White Wind

Hi guys Hi Mayhem

Do you think I'm good to go with Mayhems XT-1 Clear Concentrate in distilled water, with a loop that has copper, brass, some plastics, lightings, and PrimoChill advanced LRT tubing ?

Something I should watch out for ?


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *White Wind*
> 
> Hi guys Hi Mayhem
> 
> Do you think I'm good to go with Mayhems XT-1 Clear Concentrate in distilled water, with a loop that has copper, brass, some plastics, lightings, and PrimoChill advanced LRT tubing ?
> 
> Something I should watch out for ?


Why XT-1? It is Ethylene Glycol based. Unless you are using your coolant in freezing temperatures, you need X-1. Flush and clean your radiators out and you will be good.


----------



## White Wind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Why XT-1? It is Ethylene Glycol based.


Wanted to benefit from an anti-corrosive and an anti-algae in a one only solution, and XT-1 is cheaper than X1 or other ready-to-use coolants


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *White Wind*
> 
> Wanted to benefit from an anti-corrosive and an anti-algae in a one only solution, and XT-1 is cheaper than X1 or other ready-to-use coolants


X1 Does also contains anti-algae and anti-corrosion stuff


----------



## White Wind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> X1 Does also contains anti-algae and anti-corrosion stuff


Yes, but is more expensive x)

Also here's what Mayhem said about X1 and XT1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> XT1 Goes down to Sub zero levels how ever its all so less viscus than X1
> X1 is an echo fluid made from vegetable extract how ever is not as thermal efficient as XT1 at lower levels.
> 
> X1 Concentrate makes 2 Ltrs 125ml per 875mls of water
> XT1 Makes 3 Ltrs - 50ml per 950ml of water
> 
> If you to measure them side by side XT1 will out perform X1 buy 1c at 25 to 35c in controlled conductions. How ever its dependant on your system. Hope this helps.
> 
> Both XT1 and X1 work with all tubing we tested them on. Only Pastel has issues with plasticizer tubing.


My water delta won't be high, so 25° to 35° seems to be where my water temps will be at ( I think ! ) ..so I was under the impression I better go with XT-1... and the main purpose is really protection


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh XT-1 will be fine







youll have no issues,. Weve now Made Xt-1 in 250ml for the same price so it will go even further.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *White Wind*
> 
> Yes, but is more expensive x)
> 
> Also here's what Mayhem said about X1 and XT1
> My water delta won't be high, so 25° to 35° seems to be where my water temps will be at ( I think ! ) ..so I was under the impression I better go with XT-1... and the main purpose is really protection


You will be fine with either XT-1 or X1. Both will perform about the same and both will have the additives you need to prevent corrosion and algae buildups. I wouldn't call 1 degree C a motivation to buy one over the other.

I personally do not like E.G. based fluids as much, so I prefer X1. Mainly because E.G. has a worse track record with gunking, especially if there is something that was left in the loop that it reacts with.

Depending on how much fluid you need the prices will vary. No offense to you, but I always laugh when people complain about the price of fluid....it is an expense hobby to go water cooling, and even if you need 3 liters of Pastel, the fluid is still the least expensive part of your system. If you are really penny pinching, then do distilled water and buy the new monsoon fittings for your fittings that are silver barbs and just check your loop periodically for evidence of corrosion (probably will not see any before EOL of machine), and flush and refill your loop every 3-6mo. Silver is antimicrobial by nature and will help prevent buildup of algae. If you want insurance and the ability to not maintain as much, buy Pastel (3 year in-system life with all the additives you need). If you want something in between, go X1 or XT-1.

Really $20-40 on a WC pc is really not much more in terms of cost compare to your overall cost.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You will be fine with either XT-1 or X1. Both will perform about the same and both will have the additives you need to prevent corrosion and algae buildups. I wouldn't call 1 degree C a motivation to buy one over the other.
> 
> I personally do not like E.G. based fluids as much, so I prefer X1. Mainly because E.G. has a worse track record with gunking, especially if there is something that was left in the loop that it reacts with.
> 
> Depending on how much fluid you need the prices will vary. No offense to you, but I always laugh when people complain about the price of fluid....it is an expense hobby to go water cooling, and even if you need 3 liters of Pastel, the fluid is still the least expensive part of your system. If you are really penny pinching, then do distilled water and buy the new monsoon fittings for your fittings that are silver barbs and just check your loop periodically for evidence of corrosion (probably will not see any before EOL of machine), and flush and refill your loop every 3-6mo. Silver is antimicrobial by nature and will help prevent buildup of algae. If you want insurance and the ability to not maintain as much, buy Pastel (3 year in-system life with all the additives you need). If you want something in between, go X1 or XT-1.
> 
> Really $20-40 on a WC pc is really not much more in terms of cost compare to your overall cost.


^This^


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I've seen it happen with even pastel. Inline flow meters are really the only thing you want to use with nano fluids, the Koolance ones are the only ones I've seen mick suggest. The Aquabus has a differential pressure flow meter attachment which in theory should work fine, but their gear can get expensive fast.


Sorry to bring this back up but I'm hoping to go back to using Pastel in the future. Might even try Aurora 2 (yes I'm well aware of it's intended use and the quirks involved) just for the fun of it/experimentation. Might pick up the Koolance SEN-FM18T10 off the OCN Marketplace and was wondering if this will have problems with Pastel and/or Aurora 2?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Sorry to bring this back up but I'm hoping to go back to using Pastel in the future. Might even try Aurora 2 (yes I'm well aware of it's intended use and the quirks involved) just for the fun of it/experimentation. Might pick up the Koolance SEN-FM18T10 off the OCN Marketplace and was wondering if this will have problems with Pastel and/or Aurora 2?


Shouldn't have issues with pastel, seeing as how Aurora 2 has much smaller particles now (small enough to pass through a coffee filter







) I'd imagine it shouldn't have an issue but you might want to wait for Micks confirmation on that.


----------



## M3TAl

Hopefully he gives it two thumbs up.









Edit: Anyone else have experience with the Koolance SEN-FM18T10 or similar flow meter and Pastel?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys I'm planning a new build with PrimoFlex Advanced LRT "Crystal Clear" Tubing and Mayhems Raspberry Purple Pastel. I was reading threw a few pages of people in the thread speaking of cleaning alphacool rads with blitz due to them having flux? Im planning on either using Black Ice GTX Nemesis or EK-CoolStream PE radiators, can i just flush those with normal hot water and be fine?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys I'm planning a new build with PrimoFlex Advanced LRT "Crystal Clear" Tubing and Mayhems Raspberry Purple Pastel. I was reading threw a few pages of people in the thread speaking of cleaning alphacool rads with blitz due to them having flux? Im planning on either using Black Ice GTX Nemesis or EK-CoolStream PE radiators, can i just flush those with normal hot water and be fine?


Blitz is still recommended, as pretty much all the rads have some flux and other crap in them...alphacool seems to be the worst about it though. That being said, I've done regular flush routines on HWLabs/BlackIce and XSPC rads with pastel and haven't had any issues with the fluid and it has been in-system over a year, running 24/7. Can't speak to EK rads, as I haven't used their rads before, only blocks. HWLabs are my personal favorite rads....at least until Mayhem releases his rad line, then probably those


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Blitz is still recommended, as pretty much all the rads have some flux and other crap in them...alphacool seems to be the worst about it though. That being said, I've done regular flush routines on HWLabs/BlackIce and XSPC rads with pastel and haven't had any issues with the fluid and it has been in-system over a year, running 24/7. Can't speak to EK rads, as I haven't used their rads before, only blocks. HWLabs are my personal favorite rads....at least until Mayhem releases his rad line, then probably those


Any pics of Mayhems rads? ... HWlabs new Nemesis line seem to big a home run for then benches and reviews out!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Hey guys I'm planning a new build with PrimoFlex Advanced LRT "Crystal Clear" Tubing and Mayhems Raspberry Purple Pastel. I was reading threw a few pages of people in the thread speaking of cleaning alphacool rads with blitz due to them having flux? Im planning on either using Black Ice GTX Nemesis or EK-CoolStream PE radiators, can i just flush those with normal hot water and be fine?


As aforementioned it's still technically recommended, but honestly you should be fine with a regular flush on the HW labs rads. They have some amazing build quality at HW labs. As for EK, I don't see much people using them so I really can't speak for those, so if you go them I'd definitely blitz it but that's just because I'm a bit more on the paranoid side of loop maintenance.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Any pics of Mayhems rads? ... HWlabs new Nemesis line seem to big a home run for then benches and reviews out!


No pics yet but they will be quad pass and probably destroy all other rads in performance


----------



## pompss

Some pics


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> No pics yet but they will be quad pass and probably destroy all other rads in performance


One can only hope.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Some pics


Looks like you're about to abduct someone in your space ship. XD Very nice lighting


----------



## steve1703

guys, im using mayhems x1 250ml, wonder kind of water to mix with? is it okay with spritzer?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> One can only hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you're about to abduct someone in your space ship. XD Very nice lighting











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve1703*
> 
> guys, im using mayhems x1 250ml, wonder kind of water to mix with? is it okay with spritzer?


Trollolololololololol??


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve1703*
> 
> guys, im using mayhems x1 250ml, wonder kind of water to mix with? is it okay with spritzer?


Distilled, deionized, or demineralized water.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*


Laughed way to hard, now cats are staring at me like I'm insane.


----------



## steve1703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Distilled, deionized, or demineralized water.
> Laughed way to hard, now cats are staring at me like I'm insane.


lolx.. cause I heard someone use spritzer water. where can i buy distiled water? lolx


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve1703*
> 
> lolx.. cause I heard someone use spritzer water. where can i buy distiled water? lolx


Where abouts are you located? Here in the U.S. you can get some at every corner store. In other places you may have to order it online.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve1703*
> 
> lolx.. cause I heard someone use spritzer water. where can i buy distiled water? lolx


Grocery Store or Pharmacist


----------



## steve1703

from malaysia, but spritzer consider distilled water too.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve1703*
> 
> from malaysia, but spritzer consider distilled water too.


I'd check your local grocery store or pharmacy. If not there, check back and we can give some websites to order ultrapures from.


----------



## ROGX

guys i finnaly did it, got a small leak in the beggening, just had to tighten the fitting a little more, but so far i love how it looks, love the pastel red, looks really vibrant and goes with my color scheme. (Sorry for the bad pic) it looks alout better in person lol. and dont mind that random SLI bridge lol.



Btw do you think 2x 360 rads would be sufficent enough for 2 GTX 780's and a overclocked 4770k? and get pretty god temps?? im still gonna add alout to my pc, gonna sli my pc and get another 45mm 360 rad. ( if it's good enough)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve1703*
> 
> from malaysia, but spritzer consider distilled water too.


Spritzer to me means carbonated water, which you definitely don't want.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd check your local grocery store or pharmacy. If not there, check back and we can give some websites to order ultrapures from.


I know some countries it isn't as common to find distilled on the shelves or it is ridiculously expensive. This is why Mayhem sells the ultra pure water.

Steve, if you do not have access to demonized or distilled water or its really expensive, I'd try to order some of the ultra pure water Mayhem sells


----------



## sadeter

Has anybody tried mixing the Aurora 2 Supernova with Pastel White? I really want a white fluid and love the idea of using the Aurora, but the Supernova seems too clear of a base for what I want from the pics I looked at.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sadeter*
> 
> Has anybody tried mixing the Aurora 2 Supernova with Pastel White? I really want a white fluid and love the idea of using the Aurora, but the Supernova seems too clear of a base for what I want from the pics I looked at.


I wouldn't cause you'd probably lose the Aurora effect... the supernova isn't that clear if you light it right. Lighting is key cause the whole effect is based on reflecting light. Here is a pic I have from one of my builds that uses it. it is pretty white imo.


----------



## sadeter

Well, the pastel concentrate makes a liter once you add 750 ml h2o and the aurora concentrate make 750 ml once you add 500 ml h2o. I'm wondering what would happen if i switched out the aurora concentrate for 250 ml of the h2o in the pastel mix and just used both concentrates and 500 ml h2o. Not sure if it would work aesthetically or if it's even a good idea coolant wise as it might be too thick.

I could also make each separately, then mixing them in different ratios. Maybe 2:1 or 1.5:1 aurora to pastel.

Just throwing out thoughts. I really want to get a good white fluid with aurora effect if it is possible. The Supernova by itself comes out too silver to me. I don't mind if the effect is a little less than normal, as long as it's still visible. If there is no way to make it work, I'll just use the pastel. If Mayhems could weigh in on this it would be great, anyone who has tried something like this, or might have some spare leftover and could test a little sample.


----------



## steve1703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Spritzer to me means carbonated water, which you definitely don't want.
> I know some countries it isn't as common to find distilled on the shelves or it is ridiculously expensive. This is why Mayhem sells the ultra pure water.
> 
> Steve, if you do not have access to demonized or distilled water or its really expensive, I'd try to order some of the ultra pure water Mayhem sells


btw, for mayhems x1 250ml do i need to put biocide or silver?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve1703*
> 
> btw, for mayhems x1 250ml do i need to put biocide or silver?


Nope. X1 has all the Biocides and anticorosives in it. Just add your pure water and fill your loop


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sadeter*
> 
> Well, the pastel concentrate makes a liter once you add 750 ml h2o and the aurora concentrate make 750 ml once you add 500 ml h2o. I'm wondering what would happen if i switched out the aurora concentrate for 250 ml of the h2o in the pastel mix and just used both concentrates and 500 ml h2o. Not sure if it would work aesthetically or if it's even a good idea coolant wise as it might be too thick.
> 
> I could also make each separately, then mixing them in different ratios. Maybe 2:1 or 1.5:1 aurora to pastel.
> 
> Just throwing out thoughts. I really want to get a good white fluid with aurora effect if it is possible. The Supernova by itself comes out too silver to me. I don't mind if the effect is a little less than normal, as long as it's still visible. If there is no way to make it work, I'll just use the pastel. If Mayhems could weigh in on this it would be great, anyone who has tried something like this, or might have some spare leftover and could test a little sample.


That's a really bad idea..... Coolants can react with eachother and give you some nasty side effects. If you want a solid white coolant with the Aurora effect just get aurora and deprive it of light. Take a look at Cyphon's earlier pic, that's pretty solid white.


----------



## Br0k3nLiNk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The people that say those things are trolls or have no idea what they are doing, lol. Any type of clogging or gunking up is cause by improper setup, using incompatible additives together, or tubing leaking plasticizer. None of which are really the fluids fault. It just so happens that the dye dyes the gunk and everyone blames the dye/fluid.
> 
> Especially with pastel, the particles are on the nano scale, order of magnitude is like 1e-9. It would take one hell of a dead spot to allow so many particles at the nano level to fall out of suspension at just the right spot and cause a block in something like a water block, fitting, or tube that is mostly on the order of magnitude of a millimeter, 1e-3. Pastel has also demonstrated it. An last in system for 3yrs with not issues, lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> People who claim that the dyes are responsible for the effects you listed are normally just repeating whatever they read on forums
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The dye rumors started when people began seeing colored junk in their blocks. The gunk was the same color as their coolant and dye (duh) so they claimed that the dye itself was responsible. The truth is that 99% of the time the gunk in their loop is actually plastisizer from their tubing. Plasticizer is normally white but the dye in the loop stains it. Dye that loses its color is often too diluted or the Ph of the liquid in the loop is out of whack. Dyes themselves do not cause these issues.


Yea it pains me to see so many people jump to conclusions, its a shame the majority of humanity are that way inclined.







Giving them the internet only gives them a voice people can be mislead by.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We still get blamed now a days but we just laugh it off. All we can do is educate and prove what were talking about. Each to there own


There is only so much you lot can do, your products are great and the colours awesome so keep up the good work. Ill be using Mayhem dyes for the foreseeable future!


----------



## DarthBaggins

If people did their research prior to using Mayhems in their loops there would be minimal to no,complaints. That's why I asked questions to ensure i used the product in the correct conditions that would produce the best visually appealing color, which it did to me


----------



## pompss

Aurora 2 UV effect looks like purple with UV lights but its white


----------



## Mayhem

"Mayhems Havoc Radiators" are manufactured for us using our sole design and our tooling. They are not a copy or a reproduction of any other manufacturer. We are proud to say we do not copy or clone other brands.

We know some companies would like to think we copy them but we would rather make a better product .....


----------



## VSG

Speaking of, did you and Steve decide to go ahead with a limited run on the 480mm rads?


----------



## DarthBaggins

So when can I get my hands on a couple 240's







?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> "Mayhems Havoc Radiators" are manufactured for us using our sole design and our tooling. They are not a copy or a reproduction of any other manufacturer. We are proud to say we do not copy or clone other brands.
> 
> We know some companies would like to think we copy them but we would rather make a better product .....


Did someone accuse you of this?? I haven't gotten this impression from anything you have posted.......


----------



## Mayhem

Yes a company has accused of this ...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes a company has accused of this ...


They just scared


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Aurora 2 UV effect looks like purple with UV lights but its white


That is awesome! I am super jealous. If only Aurora could be used in more complex loops and for longer.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Speaking of, did you and Steve decide to go ahead with a limited run on the 480mm rads?


This ^ I would be in line for 2 of them if you do!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Problem is with most Riadiators is they try to be a jack of all trades and end up just being meh , look how old the HWlabs GTX Xtreme and SR1 Rads are , and they were top of the charts in every review for years, they just now released the new and improved in house design nemesis line which apprently stomps the competition..

Glad a new player is entering the watercooling game and not just rebadging and copying designs!


----------



## Mayhem

Weve got a 480 sample hitting us soon for extra testing. photos will follow.


----------



## devilhead

Hey Mick, when you done testing with your's 480's, then you can straight send 2X480's to me, to my 900D build


----------



## VSG

Get in line


----------



## cyphon

You guys can fight over the 480s. I'll just take the 360s and be happy


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Get in line


Hehe, i'm first in line, like i remember







after first post of Mick, that they launch 480's


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You guys can fight over the 480s. I'll just take the 360s and be happy


This man speaks logic!


----------



## Cobra Khan

Hey guys,

I will be running my loop through a Swiftech Apogee XL (copper) and 3x XSPC Razor R9 290X (copper) blocks using Monsoon Hardline Compression fittings (silver base), along with Mayhems UV Clear Blue dye in distilled water. What other additives will I need to keep this running safely?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra Khan*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I will be running my loop through a Swiftech Apogee XL (copper) and 3x XSPC Razor R9 290X (copper) blocks using Monsoon Hardline Compression fittings (silver base), along with Mayhems UV Clear Blue dye in distilled water. What other additives will I need to keep this running safely?


Should be it with the monsoon silver barbs. Just make sure you keep up on the maintenance


----------



## Cobra Khan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Should be it with the monsoon silver barbs. Just make sure you keep up on the maintenance


Excellent, good to hear


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra Khan*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I will be running my loop through a Swiftech Apogee XL (copper) and 3x XSPC Razor R9 290X (copper) blocks using Monsoon Hardline Compression fittings (silver base), along with Mayhems UV Clear Blue dye in distilled water. What other additives will I need to keep this running safely?


So long as you don't have any nickle you should be fine. If you do end up putting nickle plated items in the loop I'd throw in some X1 or XT-1 to extend the life of the nickle blocks, whichever one is cheaper in your area.


----------



## Cobra Khan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> So long as you don't have any nickle you should be fine. If you do end up putting nickle plated items in the loop I'd throw in some X1 or XT-1 to extend the life of the nickle blocks, whichever one is cheaper in your area.


I tried avoiding nickel so I think I should be good. All the radiators are Alphacool so I think I am set!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra Khan*
> 
> I tried avoiding nickel so I think I should be good. All the radiators are Alphacool so I think I am set!


What color are you using? Alphacool rads are a rather... lets call them a dirty rad. They receive no cleaning prior to shipping, so there's a ton of flux in them. Flux can mess up red dyes.


----------



## M3TAl

Turns your once beautiful white pastel into a green turd too


----------



## failwheeldrive

Idk why people worry about silver reacting with nickel but not copper. Silver is actually further away from copper than nickel in the galvanic index. Not saying you'll have issues one way or the other, I just don't like having silver in a loop if it can be avoided, especially without an anti corrosive.

And mixing silver with tin solder (like the kind used in alphacool rads) can be a recipe for corrosion. Tin is even more anodic than copper.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Idk why people worry about silver reacting with nickel but not copper. Silver is actually further away from copper than nickel in the galvanic index. Not saying you'll have issues one way or the other, I just don't like having silver in a loop if it can be avoided, especially without an anti corrosive.
> 
> And mixing silver with tin solder (like the kind used in alphacool rads) can be a recipe for corrosion. Tin is even more anodic than copper.


Problem is the nickle plating is only about a dozen microns in thickness. Copper will form a protective patina before it corrodes, and that patina is not very reactive at all. That tarnish can be easily cleaned off and you have a new looking block again. If nickle plating tarnishes you're SOL, because it's nearly impossible to remove the tarnish without stripping the nickle plating.


----------



## failwheeldrive

I see, thanks for clearing that up. I know nickel plating is notorious for flaking when exposed to silver without anti corrosives, but didn't consider that copper will develop a protective patina. I'd still worry about my radiators in that situation. They've been known to develop leaks due to corrosion of solder joints.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Idk why people worry about silver reacting with nickel but not copper. Silver is actually further away from copper than nickel in the galvanic index. Not saying you'll have issues one way or the other, I just don't like having silver in a loop if it can be avoided, especially without an anti corrosive.
> 
> And mixing silver with tin solder (like the kind used in alphacool rads) can be a recipe for corrosion. Tin is even more anodic than copper.


I'm not the best with chemistry, so this could be wrong, but I think that you are thinking of the wrong type of corrosion in this case. I think you have to use the Standard Electrode Potential and we are looking for oxidation corrosion.

Silver is about +0.8
Copper is about +0.2
Nickel is about -0.2

Basic principals apply where everything moves towards neutral, so nickel will lose electron to silver (oxidation corrosion).

Again, I could be wrong here, but I think this is the case. One of you chem guys please clarify


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> I see, thanks for clearing that up. I know nickel plating is notorious for flaking when exposed to silver without anti corrosives, but didn't consider that copper will develop a protective patina. I'd still worry about my radiators in that situation. They've been known to develop leaks due to corrosion of solder joints.


And rightfully so, Martin lost a HWLabs, one of the best brands in QQ, to corrosion. In all fairness he had it with liquid in it, in storage. Stagnant water will ionize faster and corrode em faster. That being said, in most loops it can take years for corrosion to eat through a rad, and when it does it's usually just a pinhole leak so it's not likely to not destroy anything, as the water atomizes into the airflow faster than it leaks. So yeah, corrosion inhibitors are a good idea if you want to preserve the life of your hardware.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'm not the best with chemistry, so this could be wrong, but I think that you are thinking of the wrong type of corrosion in this case. I think you have to use the Standard Electrode Potential and we are looking for oxidation corrosion.
> 
> Silver is about +0.8
> Copper is about +0.2
> Nickel is about -0.2
> 
> Basic principals apply where everything moves towards neutral, so nickel will lose electron to silver (oxidation corrosion).
> 
> Again, I could be wrong here, but I think this is the case. One of you chem guys please clarify


It's worth noting that "Neutral" here is relative. Those numbers are compared to true neutral, if you have two v+ ones, the less positive one will still corrode.


----------



## Cobra Khan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> What color are you using? Alphacool rads are a rather... lets call them a dirty rad. They receive no cleaning prior to shipping, so there's a ton of flux in them. Flux can mess up red dyes.


I will be running UV Clear Blue dye inside UV Blue tubing. I have a pond pump that I can attach to my new RADS and flush them until there is no flux inside. I'll just use a 5-gallon bucket to recirculate the water and maybe some coffee filters to catch all the bad stuff.

I just had a whole ordeal cleaning a used Alphacool RAD that had red dye in it, and the previous owner did not clean the flux out before using I think. I couldn't believe the amount of crap that was coming out even after 50+ flushes


----------



## failwheeldrive

I don't pretend to be good at anything involving chemistry either lol. Hated it in high school, avoided it in college. But what I'm referring to is galvanic corrosion, which is caused by two metals in electrical contact and in the presence of an electrolyte. It's the same thing that powers batteries, where you have an anode and a cathode in an electrolyte. The metal that is more anodic is what corrodes, hence the use of sacrificial anodes in some applications.

Here are the values for common metals. The lower the number, the more anodic the metal is. The higher the number the more cathodic. The greater the distance between the numbers, the greater the corrosion.

Gold= -0.0
Silver= -.15
Nickel= -.30
Copper= -.35
Brass= -.40
Tin= -.65
Iron= -.85
Aluminum= -.90 to -.95

So in a loop with copper, brass, silver, and tin (in the solder) the silver is likely to react with the tin, causing it to break down and corrode.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> I don't pretend to be good at anything involving chemistry either lol. Hated it in high school, avoided it in college. *But what I'm referring to is galvanic corrosion*, which is caused by two metals in electrical contact and in the presence of an electrolyte. It's the same thing that powers batteries, where you have an anode and a cathode in an electrolyte. The metal that is more anodic is what corrodes, hence the use of sacrificial anodes in some applications.
> 
> Here are the values for common metals. The lower the number, the more anodic the metal is. The higher the number the more cathodic. The greater the distance between the numbers, the greater the corrosion.
> 
> Gold= -0.0
> Silver= -.15
> Nickel= -.30
> Copper= -.35
> Brass= -.40
> Tin= -.65
> Iron= -.85
> Aluminum= -.90 to -.95
> 
> So in a loop with copper, brass, silver, and tin (in the solder) the silver is likely to react with the tin, causing it to break down and corrode.


The tin and the solder isn't in direct electrical contact. Galvanic corrosion, as you said, requires two metals to be in direct electrical contact AS WELL as both be in contact with an electrolyte. The only place that exists is in the radiator, where the tin solder and the copper/brass are in contact.

On another note, those values for the metals are relative. Depending on how electrolytic the electrolyte is those values can change. For instance, if I submerge them in pure distilled water they would be much closer to neutral, but if I submerge them in salt water they would be much further from 0.

There's two main types of corrosion you need to worry about in your loop. Standard oxidation and electrode potential.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Speaking of, did you and Steve decide to go ahead with a limited run on the 480mm rads?
> 
> 
> 
> This ^ I would be in line for 2 of them if you do!
Click to expand...

yeah I need 2 as well


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> The tin and the solder isn't in direct electrical contact. Galvanic corrosion, as you said, requires two metals to be in direct electrical contact AS WELL as both be in contact with an electrolyte. The only place that exists is in the radiator, where the tin solder and the copper/brass are in contact.
> 
> On another note, those values for the metals are relative. Depending on how electrolytic the electrolyte is those values can change. For instance, if I submerge them in pure distilled water they would be much closer to neutral, but if I submerge them in salt water they would be much further from 0.
> 
> There's two main types of corrosion you need to worry about in your loop. Standard oxidation and electrode potential.


That's interesting, since I assumed a radiator bolted to a steel or aluminum chassis would be in electrical contact with most of the other components in the rig. My thought was that this wouldn't be the case if say the chassis were made of plexi instead of aluminum/steel, or if the radiator weren't attached to the case. Am I totally off with that?


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Havoc 480 Laid bare how ever this is just a test sample


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Havoc 480 Laid bare how ever this is just a test sample


Sorry OCN unnfortunately I will be confiscating this sample.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Sorry OCN unnfortunately I will be confiscating this sample.


Nope, I called dibs on it like... yesterday.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Nope, I called dibs on it like... yesterday.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Havoc 480 Laid bare how ever this is just a test sample


How does A2 do with the quad pass radiators? I'd imagine turbulence and restriction would both be quite high with 4 passes.


----------



## Mayhem

It worked how ever it would be better off with a simpler 2 pass system. Quad chamber really isn't ideal by any means but it does work how ever you will severely impact the visual aspect of the liquid over a small given time period.

Marketing Bump for the 480 mm

*Mayhems Havoc 480 mm Radiator*


Quad Reflow Chamber
Triple Tubed
Split fin
Medium FPI (9)
Anti Piercing Plates
Copper Core
Brass End Tanks
125mm x 63mm x 520mm (Width x Depth x Height)
Matt Black Coated
2 Port
RoHS Compliant
Includes a Mayhems Mini Blitz kit (part 2 only)
Mayhems Havoc Radiators utilises a triple tubed split fin system that allows for a much more effective air flow to aid in the removal of heat. The Havoc range of Radiators also incorporates our quad reflow chamber allowing the coolants to remain in the radiator for a longer period of time for excessive heat to be dissipated. Both of these technology's help remove upwards of 25% more heat compared to standard radiator's and upwards of 10% for more advanced systems.

Updated FPI due to lack of sleep ....


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It worked how ever it would be better off with a simpler 2 pass system. Quad chamber really isn't ideal by any means but it does work how ever you will severely impact the visual aspect of the liquid over a small given time period.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Marketing Bump for the 480 mm
> 
> *Mayhems Havoc 480 mm Radiator*
> 
> 
> Quad Reflow Chamber
> Triple Tubed
> Split fin
> Medium FPI (12)
> Copper Core
> Brass End Tanks
> 125mm x 63mm x 520mm (Width x Depth x Height)
> Matt Black Coated
> 2 Port
> RoHS Compliant
> Includes a Mayhems Mini Blitz kit (part 2 only)
> Mayhems Havoc Radiators utilises a triple tubed split fin system that allows for a much more effective air flow to aid in the removal of heat. The Havoc range of Radiators also incorporates our quad reflow chamber allowing the coolants to remain in the radiator for a longer period of time for excessive heat to be dissipated. Both of these technology's help remove upwards of 25% more heat compared to standard radiator's and upwards of 10% for more advanced systems.


What's the pressure flow/pressure curve look like on the quad pass, or do you not have one for public release at the moment.


----------



## Mayhem

We don't have one for public release as of yet. ALL information has been kept internal and our independent testers have been told to keep quit for the moment.

What i can say is for optimal performance of these rads you need to use very good static pressure fans. A D5 should be run at a min of 3/4


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Speaking of, did you and Steve decide to go ahead with a limited run on the 480mm rads?
> 
> 
> 
> This ^ I would be in line for 2 of them if you do!
Click to expand...

yeah I need 2 as well
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Havoc 480 Laid bare how ever this is just a test sample


I would gladly pay double for 2 of these =)


----------



## cyphon




----------



## DarthBaggins

Again, I just want a few 240's maybe a 360 just not sure if I'll mod my c70 to fit a 360. And I guess I'll eventually go from my mcp355 to a d5 style pump


----------



## MrGrievous

How should I store my X1 concentrate, I know it should be put in a dark cool place but after it is used should I store it all as mixed in one bottle or keep the unused amount of concentrate as is?


----------



## Mayhem

Keep the concentrate as is and its best to keep it around 23c to 25c out of direct sunlight and away from heat. If you do it will last at least 2 to 3 years.


----------



## js593

@Mayhem

I purchased a Mayhem dye for the loop setup, but didn't realize that i had purchased an already blue type of coolant.

The coolant purchased was the Swifttech Hydrix.

Will your dye have any negative impacts with this water/coolant? I'm looking at just amplifying the color just a little bit.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> I purchased a Mayhem dye for the loop setup, but didn't realize that i had purchased an already blue type of coolant.
> 
> The coolant purchased was the Swifttech Hydrix.
> 
> Will your dye have any negative impacts with this water/coolant? I'm looking at just amplifying the color just a little bit.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


You should be fine to add the dye


----------



## cyphon

Mayhems....we got what 3 weeks-ish till them rads drop?

Might work out juuuuuuuuust right to get in the current build


----------



## Mayhem

It might be sooner depending on sea shipment.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It might be sooner depending on sea shipment.


That would be very Nice Indeed







.........

Nam..


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It might be sooner depending on sea shipment.


Excellent









Don't think I've seen it asked yet, so might as well. What type of price point are we talking for these babies?


----------



## ACallander

Prob can't answer but how thin would the 360 be or hoping to be?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> Prob can't answer but how thin would the 360 be or hoping to be?


Mayhem said all rads will be 63mm thick


----------



## Mayhem

Price point will depend on exchange rates and the extra taxes we pay once they have landed. We have an idea but it also depends on what happens over the new few days.

Allso a Note i messed up on FPI due to lack of Sleep. The FPI is 9 not 12


----------



## Raul-7

So it should preform like the RX360?


----------



## Mayhem

Nope the RX360 is different this uses different internals. Allso if just checking the RX360 is 8 FPI wich is lower than our 9.


----------



## DarthBaggins

too bad no companies state side have taken pre-orders (that I have seen)


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Hey guys,

I have quite idiotic question. I ordered a Aurora2 and I'm wondering which res will be the best (especially to get nice aurora2 effect). I was thinking about XSPC Photon 270, but maybe You will recommend something better.

One more question. I have a Kooolance D5 top and I want to use a 90 degrees fitting for output water. I heard that it can harm a Aurora2. Hard to believe but I want ask, just in case.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Nikkon*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have quite idiotic question. I ordered a Aurora2 and I'm wondering which res will be the best (especially to get nice aurora2 effect). I was thinking about XSPC Photon 270, but maybe You will recommend something better.
> 
> One more question. I have a Kooolance D5 top and I want to use a 90 degrees fitting for output water. I heard that it can harm a Aurora2. Hard to believe but I want ask, just in case.


Any cylindrical reservoir is good as long as it's placed vertically. A couple 9 degrees won't be too hard on it, just don't pack a ton of them into your build.


----------



## Interstate

Omg I hope I can cram a 360 and 240 rad into my Corsair 540. Sorry xspc but you're going to be replaced.


----------



## Mayhem

Just to let you all know its confirmed PPC will be getting Mayhems Havoc in stock once we have them on hand.


----------



## VSG




----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just to let you all know its confirmed PPC will be getting Mayhems Havoc in stock once we have them on hand.


So now he tells us . . . . .

Seeing as how I just ordered a HWL GTX 360 only yesterday for my chiller project . . . .









Darlene


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> So now he tells us . . . . .
> 
> Seeing as how I just ordered a HWL GTX 360 only yesterday for my chiller project . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Well GTX360 works the best with 3000RPM fans and above. I use 38mm 4000RPM Delta's on mine.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I think my deltas are only at 2500 at the moment, want to bump them up but the crappy kingwin controller I had couldn't handle the amps from them


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Any cylindrical reservoir is good as long as it's placed vertically. A couple 9 degrees won't be too hard on it, just don't pack a ton of them into your build.


I have 14 fitting for now and only 3 90derees, rest is 45 degrees (5) fitting or straight. Just wondering now which tube will be the best for A2. Photon or maybe something from Bits.


----------



## Deedaz

im building an a2 loop and i went with the photon res, it looks great and i cant wait to get the build finished. If you're worried about the 90 degree fittings try some snakes


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> im building an a2 loop and i went with the photon res, it looks great and i cant wait to get the build finished. If you're worried about the 90 degree fittings try some snakes


I was thinking about "snakes". In some parts of my loop I need to use 90degree fittings (two places) but in rest snakes looks as a good idea. Can You make some pictures of Your rig? I just want to see how is it look and maybe I will find something interesting. Especially to connect the res.

I want to connect the res like this: Res -> 90deg fitting ->pipe-> straight fitting koolance d5 top -> rest loop.

The whole problem is that I need to connect intake port on the bottom of res and it will be difficult because this pipe comes from top of case and to connect this pipe I need to make 180 or 90 deg bend of pipe or fitting.


----------



## Deedaz

im expecting my last shipment of supplies (tubing and aurora2) on tuesday so for now i just have fans and the res installed. My build log is here, i'll update it more hopefully on tuesday.


----------



## Mayhem

Snakes are expensive. We bought 200 x 45 degree fittings and use them like snakes the 45 degree fittings were only £1.00 each (after tax) so about £0.80p after. Better than paying a fortune on expensive fittings and you can add or take away as many as you like







.


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Snakes are expensive. We bought 200 x 45 degree fittings and use them like snakes the 45 degree fittings were only £1.00 each (after tax) so about £0.80p after. Better than paying a fortune on expensive fittings and you can add or take away as many as you like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Hey,

Yesterday on Your website I ordered three Aurora2 concentrates and You wrote that shipment will take max 14 days. Is it mean that the package went by airmail??

Second think. If I will order the Blitz (this with part 1 and 2) can You ship it to Japan. Some post regulations doesn't allow for sending corrosive or other dangerous good by mail. Maybe You have experience with this.

Last thing. I was using the Mayhems X1 Blood red coolant. Can I just wash a whole loop by tap water and next by DI water? I was reading that A2 is quite sensitive, but maybe it will be enough. I will put brand new tubes and water blocks I will clean by IPA. Problems starts with radiators.


----------



## Mayhem

All post goes by airmail.

Please contact sales ref any shipping questions. That section of the site has nothing to do with me i just give out free stuff and smile (now and then i even offer up support and advise). If i had big boobs id make a grate sectary.

Normally a Good flush will work.


----------



## Lord Nikkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> All post goes by airmail.
> 
> Please contact sales ref any shipping questions. That section of the site has nothing to do with me i just give out free stuff and smile (now and then i even offer up support and advise). If i had big boobs id make a grate sectary.
> 
> Normally a Good flush will work.


Hehe. I understand. I asked by mayhems homepage, but I didn't get and answer. Your answer is enough for me.

I feel really relieved with flushing. Japan sucks, I need import everything form US or EU.


----------



## Mayhem

If you fire an email to sales at mayhems.co.uk (remember it is a weekend) they will get back to you.


----------



## devilhead

hi, i have some small problem with my res. . Here able to see some stuff on the wall on my res. tryed to flush with distilled water with 0 luck. In this loop used pastel red for an 1 year, with acrylic tubing, all other parts is in perfect shape. Mayhems blitz will help it?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> hi, i have some small problem with my res. . Here able to see some stuff on the wall on my res. tryed to flush with distilled water with 0 luck. In this loop used pastel red for an 1 year, with acrylic tubing, all other parts is in perfect shape. Mayhems blitz will help it?


most likely glue reacting with the pastel, happened both to me and another enthoo primo owner with the same unit

red stuff got visible in less than a month of use, and does only appear in the res. i don't know how to fix it but if it's glue and it gets removed you could get leaks

another thing could be just the heat it is a warning on xspc's site about max 60 degrees, and ive had my temps right around there


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> most likely glue reacting with the pastel, happened both to me and another enthoo primo owner with the same unit
> 
> red stuff got visible in less than a month of use, and does only appear in the res. i don't know how to fix it but if it's glue and it gets removed you could get leaks
> 
> another thing could be just the heat it is a warning on xspc's site about max 60 degrees, and ive had my temps right around there


hmm, maybe it's glue, my loop was maximum 34-35C







never reached more







and now i want to use in that res Aurora 2 red, hope that i can clean that stuff with "Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning System"


----------



## Mayhem

i doubt mayhems blitz will fix that. It looks like a reaction.


----------



## cyphon

@Mayhem you guys partnering with EK on fluids (sales) now?


----------



## Mayhem

Erm i cannot say any thing but i think there post says it all







.

http://www.ekwb.com/news/506/19/EK-launches-the-new-line-of-pastel-line-nano-coolants/


----------



## MadHatter5045

I think what people are wondering (or at least what I'm wondering) is if this will replace your product line


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems is a separate company and EKWB have a much wider grasp of the market than us. Both brands are reaching a much wider audience than we could have on our own. They are the perfect partner for us and im personally feeling pretty proud of our partnership. What people will not know is we make fluids for a few different companies and we will keep growing and keep on expanding. We wont discuss who we make them for though







or how involved we are in the market place .


----------



## VSG

Agreed. It is a win-win for everyone at this point


----------



## cyphon

Lol. It is 2 of my 3 favorite WC companies joining forces so I cannot complain. I do think it will help get Mayhems in new markets, so good job


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems is a separate company and EKWB have a much wider grasp of the market than us. Both brands are reaching a much wider audience than we could have on our own. They are the perfect partner for us and im personally feeling pretty proud of our partnership. What people will not know is we make fluids for a few different companies and we will keep growing and keep on expanding. We wont discuss who we make them for though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or how involved we are in the market place .


First i'm very very happy about this partnership between you and EK! During the course of all my builds, these are 2 or the 3 companies that I vouched for a 100%!

Second, Is it a new set of pastel colors or is for example the EK Pastel Green the same as Mayhems Pastel Mint Green?

Thanks and gratz again! More exposure is always good!


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Hey guys,

I'm about to drain my loop and redo it and I was going to do a couple of flushes with demineralised water to make sure the older (1 year old) Mayhem's pastel mint green is gone. After that I will add new Mayhems pastel mint green - but I was wondering if that could interact with the drops of demineralised water that would still be in the tubing/blocks in the wrong way.

If so, should I let it all dry first or how would I go about doing this?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Mayhem

The Ek colour are just slightly different but as per the norm dont like it dyes it







.

Kipsofthemu just rice and replace and you should be good to go. If you running pastel though you should get longer than 1 year out of it. You can just empty it out, run it though a coffee filter and re add it to you system, why waste money.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The Ek colour are just slightly different but as per the norm dont like it dyes it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Cool!


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The Ek colour are just slightly different but as per the norm dont like it dyes it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Kipsofthemu just rice and replace and you should be good to go. If you running pastel though you should get longer than 1 year out of it. You can just empty it out, run it though a coffee filter and re add it to you system, why waste money.


Any chance we'll be getting a comparison between the colours? Have been planning on snagging Pastel Yellow, and now I have 2 choices from you guys!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> Any chance we'll be getting a comparison between the colours? Have been planning on snagging Pastel Yellow, and now I have 2 choices from you guys!


Cyphon, get in here!!! XD


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Cyphon, get in here!!! XD


Lol, I'll add the comparison to the color guide I do still intend on doing one of these days....

Personally, I still think white (pastel) or clear (all others) and dye is the way to go tho for most builds. There are a couple cases where the pre colored ones are just what you need, but dying your self you get that shade just right. The most impressive builds are usually colored from scratch or at least altered from the stock colors


----------



## Mayhem

Yes cyphon is correct start from the ground up when doing custom build is the way to go as you can shade it to the colour you need and end up with a perfect match.

I actually cannot discuss matters concerning our deal with EK or any thing about the products. Its very rare that companies will tell you who they are using how ever it was decided this time by EK to use our name on there advertisements so that no one think they are trying to copy a product. Eddy, Niko and there whole team have been a pleasure to deal with. We can and will support them and there products how ever that about all i can do.

Mick


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes cyphon is correct start from the ground up when doing custom build is the way to go as you can shade it to the colour you need and end up with a perfect match.
> Mick


That's probably one of the many reasons why you kept the Aurora2 line to 3 colors. Blue and Red being the one that sold the most and the white is the perfect blank canvas to create the color you want with dyes


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> That's probably one of the many reasons why you kept the Aurora2 line to 3 colors. Blue and Red being the one that sold the most and the white is the perfect blank canvas to create the color you want with dyes


And it is easier for them to bring it to the market at a lower cost since they aren't having to spread production across a multitude of different colors, and instead being able to focus only on a few.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> And it is easier for them to bring it to the market at a lower cost since they aren't having to spread production across a multitude of different colors, and instead being able to focus only on a few.


Exactly


----------



## Anateus

I will be getting my UV tube. I want to get blue UV color in my loop, but Im unsure what to choose.
Clear Blue looks fancy, but I want something darker. Could I mix UV Clear Blue and Ocean Blue for example?


----------



## afokke

Newb question, what is the difference in the Mayhems Pastels between the 1L Coolant Premix and 250mL Coolant Concentrate? Does the concentrate have to be mixed with something?


----------



## RX7-2nr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> Newb question, what is the difference in the Mayhems Pastels between the 1L Coolant Premix and 250mL Coolant Concentrate? Does the concentrate have to be mixed with something?


Yes, a concentrate is a concentrated liquid that will need to be diluted.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> Newb question, what is the difference in the Mayhems Pastels between the 1L Coolant Premix and 250mL Coolant Concentrate? Does the concentrate have to be mixed with something?


Yep for the pastel, the concentrate is to be mixed with 750ml of distilled water to make a 1l finished product


----------



## gdubc

Went to microcenter last night and just couldn't pass these up this time.


Kid is pretty excited as it's going in his rig.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Went to microcenter last night and just couldn't pass these up this time.
> 
> 
> Kid is pretty excited as it's going in his rig.


Oooo shiny

Also surprised it was at microcenter


----------



## DarthBaggins

Same here wish the MC's here in GA would get Mayhems products, I know mine sells products branded FCPU which even more overpriced than going directly to FCPU LOL


----------



## gdubc

The microcenter here gets stuff fron frozen as well. They had pastel in red and white but no dyes. They had a crap load of primochill dyes though. Crap load of primochill stuff in general. Prices are always good here though. I paid $17.99 for the aurora and the pastel is $21.99, so pretty good.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Not too shabby, yeah I got my dyes from ppc since I wasn't about to attempt using primo's dyes


----------



## ACallander

Can I use primochill system prep to clean out the loop before I add mayhems pastels>


----------



## VSG

I am pretty much convinced SysPrep is just a placebo. It did nothing to clean out my loop and Blitz showed that.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Sysprep seems to have worked perfectly for me, ph levels were perfect. But I'm not running alpha cool rads and I ran my flush through a filter for around 8 hours


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> Can I use primochill system prep to clean out the loop before I add mayhems pastels>


If you have Alphacool rads I would recommend going with blitz, sysprep is pretty much the equivalent of stage 2 of the blitz kit. If there is a concern with your rads go blitz.


----------



## Mayhem

primochill sys prep is not worth the bottle its put in. We have tested it and found it lacking on every level. There is no comparison between Blitz part 1 or part 2 tho that product.


----------



## VSG

Well it does come free with their 10' tubing pack so I wasn't expecting much. But like I said- placebo effect only as far as I am concerned.


----------



## darwing

Am I following the proper youtube mayhem? You guys haven't posted a video in over a year? Or don't have any videos of your new products or tutorials on your channels?

I'd love to see the new aurora 2 and how long it lasts


----------



## gdubc

It's 2 year shelf life on the aurora 2 concentrate, correct?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> It's 2 year shelf life on the aurora 2 concentrate, correct?


I don't think it has a usable shelf life as the aurora 1 didn't. It wasn't for everyday use, am told 2 is better but surprised they don't have videos or testimonials or even demonstrations when they released a new product...


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> It's 2 year shelf life on the aurora 2 concentrate, correct?


It should have a shelf life of around 2 years if it's stored properly, once it's put in the loop and the surfactants activated they will begin to breakdown after a year so don't leave it in your loop for over a year.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> I don't think it has a usable shelf life as the aurora 1 didn't. It wasn't for everyday use, am told 2 is better but surprised they don't have videos or testimonials or even demonstrations when they released a new product...


Aurora 2 isn't technically a new product. It's a revised product. Waterblock manufacturers don't go around advertising their new revision which decreases pressure drop by 10%. Same deal here, the new formula works better but it's still aurora. I could see your point if they just dropped chameleon or something like that, but this is just a revision; it is a rather significant revision albeit, but it's still not a completely new product line. As to it's shelf life/coolant life see my above comment.


----------



## iCrap

I just filled my loop with orilla orange aurora coolant... i'd like some UV reactiveness though, can i mix in a tiny bit of my UV Blue concentrate to get the effect? or will that cause issues?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I just filled my loop with orilla orange aurora coolant... i'd like some UV reactiveness though, can i mix in a tiny bit of my UV Blue concentrate to get the effect? or will that cause issues?


Mix Blue with orange? Do you want poop coloured coolant? Because that's how you get poop coloured coolant.

Anyways, UV reactive Aurora is a hard thing to achieve. Aurora works by reflecting light, UV effects tries to absorb light, so by trying to get UV reactive aurora you have a coolant that's both trying to reflect and absorb light, a Schrodinger's coolant if you will. It's not impossible to achieve but it won't be as simple as throwing UV dye in there and hoping it works.

As to your original question, if it's old aurora and the concentrate you have is X1 there shouldn't be any adverse reactions between the coolant, but you may warp the nano particle concentration, and mess up the viscosity of Aurora and cause the particles to fall out of suspension sooner. Again, orange and blue won't make a very pretty colour.


----------



## iCrap

lol poop color... Nope i don't want that.

I have the new stuff... it's premix and not concentrate.

I want to get the res coolant a bit more visible... maybe I can get the effect with with LEDs instead of messing with the coolant.

you can see here in this pic, the res is pretty dim with the way i have my system lit.
Do you think a really bright LED in the res would do the trick?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> lol poop color... Nope i don't want that.
> 
> I have the new stuff... it's premix and not concentrate.
> 
> I want to get the res coolant a bit more visible... maybe I can get the effect with with LEDs instead of messing with the coolant.
> 
> you can see here in this pic, the res is pretty dim with the way i have my system lit.
> Do you think a really bright LED in the res would do the trick?


Nice rig.

What's your budget for getting the res to illuminate? I have several ideas, but it all depends on what kind of $$ you'd like to spend and what kind labor you want to put into it.

My first recommendation would be to get a y-fitting and plumb through the angled part, you could use LED plugs on the straight part and have lights go straight into the res. This might give you some good illumination, be sure to use white light.

The second idea would simply be a cathode mounted behind the reservoir. This would give you a nice even lighting across the res, but might also give you some ambient light in the rig and it looks like you're trying to keep a dark ambiance in the chassis.

The third would be to use an LED strip across the back of the res. You could tape behind them to keep it from giving ambient light across the rig. The tape wouldn't be visible since it's behind the rig, so it wouldn't compromise the aesthetics. This may not give you a very even lighting in the res, but it would be your best bet for a cheap way to illuminate the res without lighting the case up.

Those are all pretty much in the order from most expensive to cheapest.

Nice rig by the way


----------



## iCrap

hmm... I like the idea about the Y fitting... but I had read it's best to keep the loop simple and without deadzones to avoid the particles falling out and the fluid's effects going away?

I'll try the LED strip on the back of the res along with a white LED inside of the res's LED port. If that fails i'll go to a cathode or maybe try the Y fittings.
Actually I now remember the res has a third port i'm not using... i could also put an LED port in that.
Cathode... yeah that won't work because i want to keep the majority of the system dark with a few light spots (tube, res, the 1 fan)

thanks for the compliments btw


----------



## Mayhem

I haven't posted in over a year because literally im working 24/7 on many project,s and work and well basically (falls down on knees and crys) i have to time ... Same as i just don't have the time to mod atm neither. Running Mayhems isnt just a job it a life style and many will contest to that


----------



## Mayhem

BTW it is possible to make a kind of UV effect Aurora but the effect would be a black shape shifting mix that would allow the background UV effect to break though the light. if you know what i mean. It would be the opposite of what Aurora is. So you'd probably call it Eventide coolant or something.


----------



## M3TAl

So the used Koolance flow meter I got was messed up, returned it to the seller (not his fault crap happens). Now I'm kind of gun shy on trying a Koolance flow meter again. What about those Aquacomputer MPS meters? No moving parts technically? Works on differential pressure (all over my head lol)? Would one of those be fine with Pastel or Aurora 2? Or should I try for Koolance again?


----------



## Mayhem

To be honest flow meters some times do not take into account Moving particles in the fluid. We have a few fittings from AC and they work fine how ever our koolance one died on us as well.


----------



## M3TAl

I was just running distilled, hoping to go back to pastel in the future or maybe try Aurora 2 just for the fun of it. Trying to make sure whatever I end up with doesn't clog like I heard about happening in here before. The impeller in the koolance meter was moving all over the place and only getting a reading when making a grinding noise. Now I'm scared to try another one







. Maybe MPS 400 would be a better choice.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I haven't posted in over a year because literally im working 24/7 on many project,s and work and well basically (falls down on knees and crys) i have to time ... Same as i just don't have the time to mod atm neither. Running Mayhems isnt just a job it a life style and many will contest to that


A busy day keeps the insanity at bay.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> So the used Koolance flow meter I got was messed up, returned it to the seller (not his fault crap happens). Now I'm kind of gun shy on trying a Koolance flow meter again. What about those Aquacomputer MPS meters? No moving parts technically? Works on differential pressure (all over my head lol)? Would one of those be fine with Pastel or Aurora 2? Or should I try for Koolance again?


No moving parts is probably your best bet, but AC monitoring gear gets expensive fast.


----------



## Mayhem

AC monitoring gear get expensive fast and even more so when you simply plug there rubbishy designed USB adapters in the wrong way ....... we lost an A5 this way.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> lol poop color... Nope i don't want that.
> 
> I have the new stuff... it's premix and not concentrate.
> 
> I want to get the res coolant a bit more visible... maybe I can get the effect with with LEDs instead of messing with the coolant.
> 
> you can see here in this pic, the res is pretty dim with the way i have my system lit.
> Do you think a really bright LED in the res would do the trick?


Just buy DarkSide Dimmable LED Strip white led or uv led and put it on the back of the res.
This wiill give u the uv effect you looking for.


----------



## afokke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> lol poop color... Nope i don't want that.
> 
> I have the new stuff... it's premix and not concentrate.
> 
> I want to get the res coolant a bit more visible... maybe I can get the effect with with LEDs instead of messing with the coolant.
> 
> you can see here in this pic, the res is pretty dim with the way i have my system lit.
> Do you think a really bright LED in the res would do the trick?


What's the UV light bar you have mounted up there







and what that enough to illuminate all of the tubing/coolant?


----------



## iCrap

The UV bar is just one from microcenter, I think it's just a logisys one.

It came with 2 bars actually, but i just needed one... that's enough to light it all up.


----------



## MrBlunt

i dont like those logisys cathodes.. i prefer the Darkside UV strips. they have them at FZCPU
those are the only ones i use.


----------



## iCrap

maybe i'll get a few and try them.


----------



## Mayhem

if you wish for good leds then try http://www.phenoptix.com .. Also iDarkside is dazmod


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> A busy day keeps the insanity at bay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No moving parts is probably your best bet, but AC monitoring gear gets expensive fast.


Ya an aquaero controller is out of my budget, at least for the near future but those MPS meter plug into USB and can be set up in their desktop software. Only thing I don't get is they like to calibrate the meter with 0 flow for more accuracy. So like you turn the pump off while your system is on and hit the calibrate button? Sounds like a bad idea? Maybe there's a way to do with an actual aquaero with the system off. Hmm.

Off topic, I'll make a thread with questions when the time comes. Mayhems coolants are awesome, missing not having any color in here.


----------



## djriful

What happened if I add 1L Distilled with with only little of 50ml of mayhem pastel? I don't mind the pale color but would the inhibitor enough to prevent algae and corrosion?


----------



## Deedaz

theres a spotlight thats about $8 you might consider for lighting up your res. Not sure about the brightness of it though


----------



## gringo1987

Hi everyone, i'm just wondering if mayhems xt-1 concentrate is supposed to be used exclusively for sub zero loops.. or can it be used in any custom loop.. i've just purchased some online and my loop specs are as follows

xspc raystorm cpu block (fx 8320)
xspc raystorm gpu block (r9 290)
primoflex lrt advanced clear tubing
xspc photon 170 tube reservoir
xspc ex360 rad
xspc ex240 rad
ek d5 vario pump

i'm looking to use high grade distilled water and mayhems xt-1 red concentrate.

Would this be ok or am i making a mistake?
thanks in advance


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> What happened if I add 1L Distilled with with only little of 50ml of mayhem pastel? I don't mind the pale color but would the inhibitor enough to prevent algae and corrosion?


Wouldn't recommend it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gringo1987*
> 
> Hi everyone, i'm just wondering if mayhems xt-1 concentrate is supposed to be used exclusively for sub zero loops.. or can it be used in any custom loop.. i've just purchased some online and my loop specs are as follows
> 
> xspc raystorm cpu block (fx 8320)
> xspc raystorm gpu block (r9 290)
> primoflex lrt advanced clear tubing
> xspc photon 170 tube reservoir
> xspc ex360 rad
> xspc ex240 rad
> ek d5 vario pump
> 
> i'm looking to use high grade distilled water and mayhems xt-1 red concentrate.
> 
> Would this be ok or am i making a mistake?
> thanks in advance


XT-1 is your basic ethylene glycol based coolant. It'll be fine for a normal loop, just do NOT add any CuSo4 (copper sulphate) Mix in 5% XT-1 to 95% distilled water minimum concentration.


----------



## 7akata

Just had a quick question here: I purchased Galaxy Purple Aurora II from performance PC's ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_1073&products_id=40721 ) where it's listed as Aurora II. Just had a quick look on Mayhems page and I don't see the Galaxy Purple listed as Aurora II. Is this incorrectly labeled? on PCP's page?


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> lol poop color... Nope i don't want that.
> 
> I have the new stuff... it's premix and not concentrate.
> 
> I want to get the res coolant a bit more visible... maybe I can get the effect with with LEDs instead of messing with the coolant.
> 
> you can see here in this pic, the res is pretty dim with the way i have my system lit.
> Do you think a really bright LED in the res would do the trick?


A member here, "pompss" I believe, recently posted up his UV Aurora experiment. I think it looks great.


----------



## Mayhem

We made some A2 in all the colours when we first started A2. How ever I decided to drop all colours except for the normal red, silver and blue so they have some A2 in other colours as well. So there listing is correct.


----------



## joelchoy

when will A2 be released!!


----------



## joelchoy

just check! please ignore my previous post


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> A member here, "pompss" I believe, recently posted up his UV Aurora experiment. I think it looks great.


wow that looks good. How did he do that?


----------



## gringo1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Wouldn't recommend it
> XT-1 is your basic ethylene glycol based coolant. It'll be fine for a normal loop, just do NOT add any CuSo4 (copper sulphate) Mix in 5% XT-1 to 95% distilled water minimum concentration.


i just filled my loop with distilled water today.. it's all running fine.. would i be ok to just add the xt-1 when i receive it tomorrow? or will i have to empty the loop, make a premix and then refill the loop?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Drain, mix and refill


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> wow that looks good. How did he do that?


I used red darkside led mixed with uv/ purple led.
If you wanna have uv effect on your res you have add a darkside uv led on the back with some 3m cler tape that you can find at any home depot.
This will work pretty god with aurora and aurora 2.
On other coolant i cannot tell.


----------



## gringo1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Drain, mix and refill


what will happen if i just add the xt-1?


----------



## iCrap

But auora 2 isnt UV reactive is it? I put my cathode right up to it and nothing happened. Did you add something to the mix?


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> But auora 2 isnt UV reactive is it? I put my cathode right up to it and nothing happened. Did you add something to the mix?


I didn't use any uv dyes in the coolant.
and yes aurora 2 isn't uv reactive this is why you have to play with uv red ,and purple to get uv purple effect or you have buy uv led strip.

U have to use aurora 2 white.
Cathode are not powerful enough to light up the res. you need some darkside dimmable led strips

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g6/c77/s2118/list/p1/Lighting-LED_Lighting-Darkside_Dimmable_LED_Strips_-Page1.html

This are in my opinion the best and bright led you can find .
What color you try to get and what color of aurora 2 you use???


----------



## devilhead

i feel now a bit confused about blitz part 1:


so where is true? ratio of 50ml of part 1 to 950ml of water or 250ml to 750ml?
and how long to leave 6-12h or maximum 2h?


----------



## VSG

Use the instructions on your bottle. The US variant for example is less powerful needing longer for action and gives you just 1 L compared to 2 L..


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Use the instructions on your bottle. The US variant for example is less powerful needing longer for action and gives you just 1 L compared to 2 L..


ok, done that, but weird, ordered straight from http://www.mayhems.co.uk/ and in internet site written 50ml to 950ml, but now somebody have changed already to "250ml of part 1 to 750ml of water"





























but still left " Recirculate for a maximum of two hours. (shake every 10 min)" i'm already run my system for 3hrs. and will leave over night







so i will make around 10-11 hours.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gringo1987*
> 
> i just filled my loop with distilled water today.. it's all running fine.. would i be ok to just add the xt-1 when i receive it tomorrow? or will i have to empty the loop, make a premix and then refill the loop?


I'd drain it and refill. Normally if you know exactly how much water you have you can just add the appropriate amount of concentrate to mix it in proper ratios but XT1 is EG, and ethylene glycol can cause microfractures in acrylic if the concentration is very high. Diluted properly it shouldn't do anything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> i feel now a bit confused about blitz part 1:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so where is true? ratio of 50ml of part 1 to 950ml of water or 250ml to 750ml?
> and how long to leave 6-12h or maximum 2h?


Always go with the instructions on your bottle or physically in your kit. Due to varying import customs in different countries they need to make part-1 in varying concentrations. Higher concentrations means smaller lighter bottle means less shipping $ means cheaper resale. So yeah, to digress follow your instructions, not the Internets or someone else's bottle's.


----------



## joelchoy

is there some problem with mayhems shop? i can't seem to add any of the items to cart and not able to sign in too


----------



## Mayhem

Ill get it sorted, lots of people having issues since the new site has gone up. Ill try and speak to the guy who is working on it :/


----------



## Mr Brothers

hi

Im going to do some change to my PC, get a new Res and Pumptop from Bitspower, and some new Waterblocks from EK (Nickel and Plexi). i was also thinking of going for some new Hardline Tube and Free Center Hardline Fitting from Monsoon.

I already got:
EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (360)
EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (480)
EK-D5 PWM Motor (12V DC PWM Pump Motor)
EK-D5 Dual TOP G1/4 CSQ - Acetal
EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Nickel
EK-FB KIT RE4 - Acetal+Nickel CSQ
EK-CSQ Fitting 13/19mm G1/4 - Black

I was thinking of using Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning System on the system, but i have read so many different things on what to do and not do so to be honest im not sure what to do anymore.









so i got some questions.

Is there any problems using the Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning System on any of the parts,
and is there any problem using the Mayhems coolant with any of my parts.
what im most skeptical about is the Monsoon Hardline UV Cure Adhesive for the fittings if its going to react to the Mayhems coolant.

Thanks
Mr_Brothers.


----------



## Mayhem

you don't need the blitz kit for that set up but if you still wish to use it you will only need part 2.

Mick


----------



## Mr Brothers

ah ok ill keep that in mind.
you know anything about the monsoon Hardline Tube and fitting ?

Thanks
Mr_Brothers


----------



## Mayhem

No sorry i don't use hard line. Lots of people on herewill give you good advice over them though.


----------



## Cobra Khan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No sorry dont use hard line. Lots of people on here to give you good advice over them though.


Is there a specific reason you recommend not using Monsoon tubing? I know the concern over the silver fittings, but have not seen anyone have problems with their tubing.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra Khan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No sorry dont use hard line. Lots of people on here to give you good advice over them though.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a specific reason you recommend not using Monsoon tubing? I know the concern over the silver fittings, but have not seen anyone have problems with their tubing.
Click to expand...

Mick was not recommending against using hardline, he was saying that since he doesn't use it, he can't offer an opinion about it.

Mick is sometimes a bit short on the punctuation and it skews his meaning, unless you can read in between the lines or mentally add the punctuation bits.

Darlene


----------



## Mayhem

lol yeh never take my typing as is, I am not very good at it







. Ive adjusted my words above and IT Diva is correct


----------



## cyphon

Yeah, I haven't had any issues with hardline with mayhems products. If you think about it, the acrylic tube is similar to using acrylic reservoirs which people have been using for a very long time. Acrylic doesn't react with anything you'd have in a water loop, which is one of the reason why using the acrylic tubing has become so popular...no worries about plasticizer or color changing







also it looks sweet


----------



## Cobra Khan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Mick was not recommending against using hardline, he was saying that since he doesn't use it, he can't offer an opinion about it.
> 
> Mick is sometimes a bit short on the punctuation and it skews his meaning, unless you can read in between the lines or mentally add the punctuation bits.
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> lol yeh never take my typing as is, I am not very good at it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Ive adjusted my words above and IT Diva is correct


Oops, my bad! Thanks for correcting me, I was a little worried because I just bought their fittings and tubing for my build!


----------



## luciddreamer124

So I got Aurora 2 Tharsis red a couple weeks ago for my S3 build (all acrylic loop). Sorry to say I'm disappointed. The effect largely faded after about a week and now I can barely see it at all, even in the res. O well, still a nice red


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> So I got Aurora 2 Tharsis red a couple weeks ago for my S3 build (all acrylic loop). Sorry to say I'm disappointed. The effect largely faded after about a week and now I can barely see it at all, even in the res. O well, still a nice red


Sad to read this. I am about to use some as well. Guess I will see what happens.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> So I got Aurora 2 Tharsis red a couple weeks ago for my S3 build (all acrylic loop). Sorry to say I'm disappointed. The effect largely faded after about a week and now I can barely see it at all, even in the res. O well, still a nice red


Thats sad and my concern, the particles fall out of suspension and just get stuck somewhere in your loop that can cause havoc at a later time if they are clogging something.


----------



## aliensbruh

So I've purchased all the parts for my build besides the coolant or dye.

I have a Z97X-SOC and will be using acrylic tubing, I want to get my liquid color as close to the Gigabyte orange as possible.

Should I just go with Mayhems Pastel Orange and is it close enough? Should I get some white/red dye along with the orange pastel? Should I grab a white pastel and color that?

Sorry for the stupid questions, I'm just a total fool with anything that has to do with colors.

I'd appreciate any help


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> So I got Aurora 2 Tharsis red a couple weeks ago for my S3 build (all acrylic loop). Sorry to say I'm disappointed. The effect largely faded after about a week and now I can barely see it at all, even in the res. O well, still a nice red


Might have missed it, but what all is in your system?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aliensbruh*
> 
> So I've purchased all the parts for my build besides the coolant or dye.
> 
> I have a Z97X-SOC and will be using acrylic tubing, I want to get my liquid color as close to the Gigabyte orange as possible.
> 
> Should I just go with Mayhems Pastel Orange and is it close enough? Should I get some white/red dye along with the orange pastel? Should I grab a white pastel and color that?
> 
> Sorry for the stupid questions, I'm just a total fool with anything that has to do with colors.
> 
> I'd appreciate any help


The Pastel Orange is so close to Gigabyte Orange that it used to be called Gigabyte Orange


----------



## aliensbruh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The Pastel Orange is so close to Gigabyte Orange that it used to be called Gigabyte Orange


Awesome! I appreciate the quick response and can't wait to get it ordered now.

I know this is probably not too related but would anyone happen to know of a paracord vendor that has an orange close to the gigabyte orange? I got some neon orange from paracordplace, but it's a bit off.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Might have missed it, but what all is in your system?
> The Pastel Orange is so close to Gigabyte Orange that it used to be called Gigabyte Orange


It's a pretty simple loop. Bitspower upgrade kit 150 with DDC pump, EK blocks, Here is a picture before I added the Aurora 2. It was just X1 with dye, but now it honestly almost looks just like that.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> It's a pretty simple loop. Bitspower upgrade kit 150 with DDC pump, EK blocks, Here is a picture before I added the Aurora 2. It was just X1 with dye, but now it honestly almost looks just like that.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


All of them 90s gonna kill aurora. The Aurora 2 is 'better' than the first about falling out of suspension, but not perfect.

Side Note, I do like your loop though. Very clean


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> All of them 90s gonna kill aurora. The Aurora 2 is 'better' than the first about falling out of suspension, but not perfect.
> 
> Side Note, I do like your loop though. Very clean


That was my guess as to why it happened so fast. Still seems weird to me though, since I don't see how that would cause particles to fall out of suspension. Should I be changing the coolant back to X1?


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> It's a pretty simple loop. Bitspower upgrade kit 150 with DDC pump, EK blocks, Here is a picture before I added the Aurora 2. It was just X1 with dye, but now it honestly almost looks just like that.


This is not a simple loop for Aurora, all the ram blocks and the 90 degree fittings are trouble spots for aurora particles to fall out of suspension, also you will have a dead-zone for particles in your drain port where particles will accumulate.


----------



## Buehlar

Aurora 2 after running 24/7 for > 2 weeks.
Loops were filled on August 1st...so far so good


----------



## GringoKillah1

Hi guys, i have a question.
I purchase 2 bottles of Mayhems X1 Clear concentrate, and it smells like vodka. I'm not joking guys, a very pronounced odor of alcohol, really like warm vodka. It's ok?








Before it i purchase 1 bottle of X1 blue, and its smells quite different....


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Hi guys, i have a question.
> I purchase 2 bottles of Mayhems X1 Clear concentrate, and it smells like vodka. I'm not joking guys, a very pronounced odor of alcohol, really like warm vodka. It's ok?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before it i purchase 1 bottle of X1 blue, and its smells quite different....


yep, X1 does have a pretty strong smell


----------



## GringoKillah1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*


But why X1 Blue smell so different







?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Aurora 2 after running 24/7 for > 2 weeks.
> Loops were filled on August 1st...so far so good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is tasty!


----------



## mbreslin

So I've always used distilled water and this will be my first time using dye. I am going for a dark grey to match my gunmetal caselabs S8. Is this still the best way to get a nice pastel/dark/grey color?

Thanks.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> So I got Aurora 2 Tharsis red a couple weeks ago for my S3 build (all acrylic loop). Sorry to say I'm disappointed. The effect largely faded after about a week and now I can barely see it at all, even in the res. O well, still a nice red


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Might have missed it, but what all is in your system?
> The Pastel Orange is so close to Gigabyte Orange that it used to be called Gigabyte Orange
> 
> 
> 
> It's a pretty simple loop. Bitspower upgrade kit 150 with DDC pump, EK blocks, Here is a picture before I added the Aurora 2. It was just X1 with dye, but now it honestly almost looks just like that.
Click to expand...

I think it's the vertically mounted rad that's killing you.

All the particles are dropping to the bottom, and turning to sludge, too hard to pick back up into suspension without more pump power.

How does the coolant in the res look as far as turbulence, has it dropped since you first assembled it . . . .

You also may have a wad of it packed up against the valve.

Darlene


----------



## M3TAl

What is the recommended minimum flow rate for Aurora 2? Or is it just a more flow the better scenario?


----------



## gdubc

So with a vertical rad would it be best to route pump to the vert. rad first to try to keep it circulated? And how would one go about setting up a drain valve that wouldnt be problematic?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> So I got Aurora 2 Tharsis red a couple weeks ago for my S3 build (all acrylic loop). Sorry to say I'm disappointed. The effect largely faded after about a week and now I can barely see it at all, even in the res. O well, still a nice red


Components list please
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Thats sad and my concern, the particles fall out of suspension and just get stuck somewhere in your loop that can cause havoc at a later time if they are clogging something.


Nano particles are 40nm across, they aren't going to clog anything: Period
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> It's a pretty simple loop. Bitspower upgrade kit 150 with DDC pump, EK blocks, Here is a picture before I added the Aurora 2. It was just X1 with dye, but now it honestly almost looks just like that.


What rads are those? You may be able to bring the particles back into suspension with a stronger pump. That's a LOT of 90 degree bends, coupled with a relatively weak pump and two (unknown) rads, that's not a very ideal environment for aurora.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> That was my guess as to why it happened so fast. Still seems weird to me though, since I don't see how that would cause particles to fall out of suspension. Should I be changing the coolant back to X1?


Throw in a stronger pump and you might pick the particles out of suspension.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Hi guys, i have a question.
> I purchase 2 bottles of Mayhems X1 Clear concentrate, and it smells like vodka. I'm not joking guys, a very pronounced odor of alcohol, really like warm vodka. It's ok?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before it i purchase 1 bottle of X1 blue, and its smells quite different....


Doesn't taste like vodka though







It tastes awful! Don't ask how I know that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What is the recommended minimum flow rate for Aurora 2? Or is it just a more flow the better scenario?


It's less about flow and more about turbulence, however more flow == more turbulence so yes, more flow the better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> So with a vertical rad would it be best to route pump to the vert. rad first to try to keep it circulated? And how would one go about setting up a drain valve that wouldnt be problematic?


Mounting it with the barbs/fittings at the bottom would be ideal for a vert rad so the particles can't pool at the bottom.


----------



## Deedaz

hey guys, i've had aurora 2 running for about a week and its gone clear. Im wondering if anybody has any idea as to why. i was thinking maybe the d5/photon res might be the problem?? thanks in advance for any help!

heres the before and after pics. i can still see the fine particles throughout the res and can barely see it flowing through the tubes.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> hey guys, i've had aurora 2 running for about a week and its gone clear. Im wondering if anybody has any idea as to why. i was thinking maybe the d5/photon res might be the problem?? thanks in advance for any help!
> 
> heres the before and after pics. i can still see the fine particles throughout the res and can barely see it flowing through the tubes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Loop component list, and pump speed setting please


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Loop component list, and pump speed setting please


bitspower summit ef cpu block (plate still in), swiftech mcr 240 rad, the pump is set to 5. 1/2" x 3/4" tubing also


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> bitspower summit ef cpu block (plate still in), swiftech mcr 240 rad, the pump is set to 5. 1/2" x 3/4" tubing also


Doesn't look like the aurora has faded too much, my bet would be the injection plate on the CPU block would be the culprit.


----------



## Deedaz

ohh..the first pic is actually the after pic, idk if that makes a difference. i thought i loaded them in the right order. otherwise i'll drain it this weekend and try again, still got another bottle of A2


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> ohh..the first pic is actually the after pic, idk if that makes a difference. i thought i loaded them in the right order. otherwise i'll drain it this weekend and try again, still got another bottle of A2


I'd tear out the injection plate from the CPU block. The res/pump aren't the problem, rad is really restrictive but it's single row so it shouldn't be the culprit, only thing I can think is the is the CPU.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think it's the vertically mounted rad that's killing you.
> 
> All the particles are dropping to the bottom, and turning to sludge, too hard to pick back up into suspension without more pump power.
> 
> How does the coolant in the res look as far as turbulence, has it dropped since you first assembled it . . . .
> 
> You also may have a wad of it packed up against the valve.
> 
> Darlene


Well I cranked the pump to 100% for a while, and then turned it down and the particles definitely seemed to come back quite a bit, although not to their original volume. I hadn't really designed this for Aurora so it's possible the drain config isn't great in this situation


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd tear out the injection plate from the CPU block. The res/pump aren't the problem, rad is really restrictive but it's single row so it shouldn't be the culprit, only thing I can think is the is the CPU.


Thanks for the help and fast response! I'll drain it and remove the plate tomorrow i think


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Nano particles are 40nm across, they aren't going to clog anything: Period


No matter how small they areif you get enough of them "stuck" together they can cause issues in areas like the channels in a CPU or GPU block. I'm speaking from experience with Aurora 1 where when the effect was lost and I cracked open my components my channels in my CPU and GPU block were caked with the particles that made the effect after a month of use. If that was not an issue you wouldn't need to remove the jet plate on CPU blocks to make sure it works and you don't have the buildup around the plate.


----------



## Mayhem

Aurora 2 even though is much better than Aurora still is not really for complex loops. The aurora is so tiny now they can still get trapped in the smallest of areas and if there is no flow then there is no aurora effect.

No offence to water coolers world wide or water cooling companies but the equipment every one users is far from perfect by any means.


----------



## cyphon

Well.....I think for something on the nano scale to cause a blockage in a CPU block that has channels on the milli scale, we are talking about hundreds of millions of particles stacking in just the right way to cause a minimal theoretical blockage. For it to really cause a block, where the pressure from the pump won't just blow through it, I think it is more in the hundred trillions or more of particles per smallest channel to even have the slightest chance. With surfactants that are added in those fluids, they probably aren't sticking to the walls of the blocks much either.

While I suppose it is possible, it would be very unlikely for nanos to block a loop


----------



## Mayhem

Its in the rad were they get trapped and the surface. if you say run Blitz part 2 in you kit it all re appears with in seconds showing its not trapped. Shame you cannot run the surfactant we use in blitz part 2 in the system else it would be perfect ;/ how ever it would ruin your loop over a long period of time and cannot take the heat.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> No matter how small they areif you get enough of them "stuck" together they can cause issues in areas like the channels in a CPU or GPU block. I'm speaking from experience with Aurora 1 where when the effect was lost and I cracked open my components my channels in my CPU and GPU block were caked with the particles that made the effect after a month of use. If that was not an issue you wouldn't need to remove the jet plate on CPU blocks to make sure it works and you don't have the buildup around the plate.


The particles may cake an area with no flow and get trapped there, but they are incapable of physically obstructing the loop to the point of hindering performance. The smallest lanes you can achieve on a waterblock with a CNC mill is going to be .508mm, we'll round down to .5mm for convenience. Anything smaller than that would need to be done on a skiving machine, or electrical discharge machining. Skiving is rarely seen in CPU water blocks except with Corsair AIO and the old Danger Den blocks. Electrical discharge machining is WAY to expensive to be practical for the liquid cooling industry. That leaves us with just cnc machining, which as I said before. .5mm. So with 40nm aurora particles and .5mm channels we'd need to lay 12516 particles end on end to achieve a string long enough to span .5mm. How thick would the blockage need to be to physically prevent flow? Too thick for it to be possible for it to stack up properly, I'd imagine. So I digress, they may cake an area, cluttering it with particles but they are physically incapable of providing legitimate blockage in a loop, with the exception mechanical flow meters since it can clog their bearing but that's a whole 'nother issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Well.....I think for something on the nano scale to cause a blockage in a CPU block that has channels on the milli scale, we are talking about hundreds of millions of particles stacking in just the right way to cause a minimal theoretical blockage. For it to really cause a block, where the pressure from the pump won't just blow through it, I think it is more in the hundred trillions or more of particles per smallest channel to even have the slightest chance. With surfactants that are added in those fluids, they probably aren't sticking to the walls of the blocks much either.
> 
> While I suppose it is possible, it would be very unlikely for nanos to block a loop


Pretty much this ^^^

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its in the rad were they get trapped and the surface. if you say run Blitz part 2 in you kit it all re appears with in seconds showing its not trapped. Shame you cannot run the surfactant we use in blitz part 2 in the system else it would be perfect ;/ how ever it would ruin your loop over a long period of time and cannot take the heat.


Have you tried turning it off and on again?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Well.....I think for something on the nano scale to cause a blockage in a CPU block that has channels on the milli scale, we are talking about hundreds of millions of particles stacking in just the right way to cause a minimal theoretical blockage. For it to really cause a block, where the pressure from the pump won't just blow through it, I think it is more in the hundred trillions or more of particles per smallest channel to even have the slightest chance. With surfactants that are added in those fluids, they probably aren't sticking to the walls of the blocks much either.
> 
> While I suppose it is possible, it would be very unlikely for nanos to block a loop


Supporting math:

Cross section area of a CPU block channel (estimated dimensions): 0.5mm x 2mm = 1mm^2
Cross section area of a 40nm cube nano particle (in reality I think they are cylindrical, so really less area than this): 1600nm^2 or 1.6e-9mm^2

Num particles to fill the cross section of CPU block channel: 1mm^2 / 1.6e-9 mm^2 = 625,000,000 particles

So, that is to fill an infinitely thin section of channel.

For fun, To cause a blockage you'd need 1mm long of particles, it'd take 25,000 particles to lay he 1mm length. The total particles in that area are 1.5625e13 particles. For the dramatics, here is the number with all the zeros:

15,625,000,000,000

And that would be needed per channel to cause a full block O_O


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> hey guys, i've had aurora 2 running for about a week and its gone clear. Im wondering if anybody has any idea as to why. i was thinking maybe the d5/photon res might be the problem?? thanks in advance for any help!
> 
> heres the before and after pics. i can still see the fine particles throughout the res and can barely see it flowing through the tubes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hard to tell exactly, but it looks like there is a lot of the particles that are just sitting in the bottom of the res. that usually means that there isn't enough circulation in the res


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Supporting math:
> 
> Cross section area of a CPU block channel (estimated dimensions): 0.5mm x 2mm = 1mm^2
> Cross section area of a 40nm cube nano particle (in reality I think they are cylindrical, so really less area than this): 1600nm^2 or 1.6e-9mm^2
> 
> Num particles to fill the cross section of CPU block channel: 1mm^2 / 1.6e-9 mm^2 = 625,000,000 particles
> 
> So, that is to fill an infinitely thin section of channel.
> 
> For fun, To cause a blockage you'd need 1mm long of particles, it'd take 25,000 particles to lay he 1mm length. The total particles in that area are 1.5625e13 particles. For the dramatics, here is the number with all the zeros:
> 
> 15,625,000,000,000
> 
> And that would be needed per channel to cause a full block O_O


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> The particles may cake an area with no flow and get trapped there, but they are incapable of physically obstructing the loop to the point of hindering performance. The smallest lanes you can achieve on a waterblock with a CNC mill is going to be .508mm, we'll round down to .5mm for convenience. Anything smaller than that would need to be done on a skiving machine, or electrical discharge machining. Skiving is rarely seen in CPU water blocks except with Corsair AIO and the old Danger Den blocks. Electrical discharge machining is WAY to expensive to be practical for the liquid cooling industry. That leaves us with just cnc machining, which as I said before. .5mm. So with 40nm aurora particles and .5mm channels we'd need to lay 12516 particles end on end to achieve a string long enough to span .5mm. How thick would the blockage need to be to physically prevent flow? Too thick for it to be possible for it to stack up properly, I'd imagine. So I digress, they may cake an area, cluttering it with particles but they are physically incapable of providing legitimate blockage in a loop, with the exception mechanical flow meters since it can clog their bearing but that's a whole 'nother issue.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Supporting math:
> 
> Cross section area of a CPU block channel (estimated dimensions): 0.5mm x 2mm = 1mm^2
> Cross section area of a 40nm cube nano particle (in reality I think they are cylindrical, so really less area than this): 1600nm^2 or 1.6e-9mm^2
> 
> Num particles to fill the cross section of CPU block channel: 1mm^2 / 1.6e-9 mm^2 = 625,000,000 particles
> 
> So, that is to fill an infinitely thin section of channel.
> 
> For fun, To cause a blockage you'd need 1mm long of particles, it'd take 25,000 particles to lay he 1mm length. The total particles in that area are 1.5625e13 particles. For the dramatics, here is the number with all the zeros:
> 
> 15,625,000,000,000
> 
> And that would be needed per channel to cause a full block O_O


Ok guys you are great at math









Now let's stop talking theory and going extremely literal and go back to practicality and real life experience.

When I mentioned clogging I mentioned in the sense of the caking that happens on blocks with aurora one. I know it will not stop flow entirely in the system but in my real life situation the accumulation was enough to require me taking a look at things because temperatures in my CPU were going up, not spiking as it would if you had 0 flow but the temps were climbing enough to merit a look. And before anyone points out that increases can come from various sources I had eliminated those plus it was a time of year that ambient temps were declining here in the Frozen Thundra.

When I took my block apart, the particles were coating the channels in the CPU block and impeding flow not completely blocked but performance was hindered as the outer layer of the channels were covered in the particles and this is after removing the jet plate.

So in summary, if the particles stick or fall out of suspension keep an eye on your blocks to see if they are getting stuck in the channels. Will it stop your flow? No, can it have negative effects in your loop depends on where they get stuck, in my case they did, enough so that Mick had offered to send me an "Aurora Booster" that they were working on at the moment (which I never received btw).

Still, I want to get my hands on A2 to test it. I want to see if it behaves differently as I love the looks of it, and have plenty of people in my immediate network asking me about it, but I need more usable life than 1 month.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> *Ok guys you are great at math
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> Now let's stop talking theory and going extremely literal and go back to practicality and real life experience.
> 
> When I mentioned clogging I mentioned in the sense of the caking that happens on blocks with aurora one. I know it will not stop flow entirely in the system but in my real life situation the accumulation was enough to require me taking a look at things because temperatures in my CPU were going up, not spiking as it would if you had 0 flow but the temps were climbing enough to merit a look. And before anyone points out that increases can come from various sources I had eliminated those plus it was a time of year that ambient temps were declining here in the Frozen Thundra.
> 
> When I took my block apart, the particles were coating the channels in the CPU block and impeding flow not completely blocked but performance was hindered as the outer layer of the channels were covered in the particles and this is after removing the jet plate.
> 
> So in summary, if the particles stick or fall out of suspension keep an eye on your blocks to see if they are getting stuck in the channels. Will it stop your flow? No, can it have negative effects in your loop depends on where they get stuck, in my case they did, enough so that Mick had offered to send me an "Aurora Booster" that they were working on at the moment (which I never received btw).
> 
> Still, I want to get my hands on A2 to test it. I want to see if it behaves differently as I love the looks of it, and have plenty of people in my immediate network asking me about it, but I need more usable life than 1 month.


*
I like math, it makes people cry.*

Fair enough, it may cake the block to an extent that it may increase thermal resistivity and decreasing the efficiency of the block. That would seem like a rather extreme scenario though, I can't see that happening in a loop well built around aurora.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> *
> I like math, it makes people cry.*
> 
> Fair enough, it may cake the block to an extent that it may increase thermal resistivity and decreasing the efficiency of the block. That would seem like a rather extreme scenario though, I can't see that happening in a loop well built around aurora.


Knowing then what I know now about things that work with Aurora and not Im sure there were things in my loop that didn't help the situation specially since I had 2L of the stuff running through the system. Im glad that more information is out there now as to do's and dont's for the use but back when I tried it the only guidance was don't leave it for extended periods of time and remove the jet plate. Now there is a lot more information out there that help planning your loop for Aurora like types of rads and avoiding dead spots such as drain ports.

Now to lighter subjects is this Galaxy Purple Aurora 2? I thought A2 was only coming in white red and blue.

Are EK PE rads good with A2 or are those a no no?

I might pickup in the next couple of days to tests it out in one of my rigs but I wanted to make sure it's A2 and not Aurora 1.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Now to lighter subjects is this Galaxy Purple Aurora 2? I thought A2 was only coming in white red and blue.


When Aurora 2 was initially released, Mayhems did produce more than the standard white, red and blue. So it's normal. But as of now they only produce those 3 colors. The other colors you will find are shelf inventory of the vendors.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Knowing then what I know now about things that work with Aurora and not Im sure there were things in my loop that didn't help the situation specially since I had 2L of the stuff running through the system. Im glad that more information is out there now as to do's and dont's for the use but back when I tried it the only guidance was don't leave it for extended periods of time and remove the jet plate. Now there is a lot more information out there that help planning your loop for Aurora like types of rads and avoiding dead spots such as drain ports.
> 
> Now to lighter subjects is this Galaxy Purple Aurora 2? I thought A2 was only coming in white red and blue.
> 
> Are EK PE rads good with A2 or are those a no no?
> 
> I might pickup in the next couple of days to tests it out in one of my rigs but I wanted to make sure it's A2 and not Aurora 1.


Mayhems stopped production of all aurora 2 colours except those three, since they can be easily mixed with dyes. They did, however, do most colours for a short run so yes if it's listed as Aurora 2 it probably is aurora 2. Aurora likes single row rads, I can't find the row count of the EK-PE series. Most any rads with single rows will work well with aurora. The more rows a radiator will have the lower the internal velocities will be, as well as having more deadzones for the particles to get stuck in. So take a flashlight to the rad core and check. Of course, if you're just going to have one rad in the loop a dual row setup won't do too much harm.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Hard to tell exactly, but it looks like there is a lot of the particles that are just sitting in the bottom of the res. that usually means that there isn't enough circulation in the res


That was my initial thought too, but ZythEKS suggested removing the plate on the cpu block so i'll try that first. Im going to go ahead and buy the parts needed to convert the top fill port into a return line, that should get more flow throughout the reservoir. i think between those two things everything should be good. My original plan was to run it that way but didnt want to drop the money on QD's or a valve.


----------



## mbreslin

Sorry for double post but the thread was moving fast. I just want to make sure I order the right stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> So I've always used distilled water and this will be my first time using dye. I am going for a dark grey to match my gunmetal caselabs S8. Is this still the best way to get a nice pastel/dark/grey color?
> 
> Thanks.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Sorry for double post but the thread was moving fast. I just want to make sure I order the right stuff.


Yep that is the best way for grey fluid


----------



## M3TAl

Not trying to start any Mayhems hate, just curious what's wrong with this guy's loop? Said he's using Advanced LRT with X1 clear and Mayhems dark blue dye so it shouldn't be plasticizer?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkyrie743*
> 
> need your guys opinion. want to know if this is plasticizer that's in my system. tubing im using is primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT clear. using Mayhems X1 clear coolant with Mayhems Dark Blue dye
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Pics!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is a picture of the system as a whole. as you can see the tubing is not hazy so i have no idea what's going on.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Pic!


----------



## cyphon

Don't think it is plasticizer cause the tubes look clean.

Did he use any other additives? Also what metals does he have? Did he use di water

Also curious that it seems to be where the the water is not. Unless the pics are going me


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Not trying to start any Mayhems hate, just curious what's wrong with this guy's loop? Said he's using Advanced LRT with X1 clear and Mayhems dark blue dye so it shouldn't be plasticizer?


Looks like instant-mashed potatoes. Not plasticizers from this loop, tubing would look like rubbish if it was. My first bet would be nickle oxide, but that would take a LONG time to form, even without corrosion inhibitors so that's not possible. It also looks way too... beach shore-ish to be tarnish, as if it was oxidizing it would be uniform and less... wavy. It's possible the OP had plasticizers from a previous setup, swapped the tubing but didn't properly clean the blocks, then a while after the new fill the dye stained the plasticizers. Plasticizers stick to EVERYTHING. That would be my guess on the matter.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Don't think it is plasticizer cause the tubes look clean.
> 
> Did he use any other additives? Also what metals does he have? Did he use di water
> 
> Also curious that it seems to be where the the water is not. Unless the pics are going me


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Looks like instant-mashed potatoes. Not plasticizers from this loop, tubing would look like rubbish if it was. My first bet would be nickle oxide, but that would take a LONG time to form, even without corrosion inhibitors so that's not possible. It also looks way too... beach shore-ish to be tarnish, as if it was oxidizing it would be uniform and less... wavy. It's possible the OP had plasticizers from a previous setup, swapped the tubing but didn't properly clean the blocks, then a while after the new fill the dye stained the plasticizers. Plasticizers stick to EVERYTHING. That would be my guess on the matter.


I don't have all the details on his loop but one person of course blamed it on residue from the dye... which obviously seemed wrong to me. Maybe one of you Mayhems vets could post over there on the plasticizer thread and set the record straight.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Looks like instant-mashed potatoes. Not plasticizers from this loop, tubing would look like rubbish if it was. My first bet would be nickle oxide, but that would take a LONG time to form, even without corrosion inhibitors so that's not possible. It also looks way too... beach shore-ish to be tarnish, as if it was oxidizing it would be uniform and less... wavy. It's possible the OP had plasticizers from a previous setup, swapped the tubing but didn't properly clean the blocks, then a while after the new fill the dye stained the plasticizers. Plasticizers stick to EVERYTHING. That would be my guess on the matter.


I was thinking oxidation too, but yeah, it'd be much more uniform and take waaaaaaaay longer to form


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I don't have all the details on his loop but one person of course blamed it on residue from the dye... which obviously seemed wrong to me. Maybe one of you Mayhems vets could post over there on the plasticizer thread and set the record straight.


If dye did that then I'm the queen of Orlais. Link please


----------



## M3TAl

On my phone atm. If you click the arrow on the post I quoted it should take you to the thread.


----------



## kcuestag

It looks like oxidation, and if you see the GPU block, he's got it where there's no coolant contact, which is very weird.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd tear out the injection plate from the CPU block. The res/pump aren't the problem, rad is really restrictive but it's single row so it shouldn't be the culprit, only thing I can think is the is the CPU.


well i took the plate out and right away im getting a LOT more movement inside the res. Guess i didnt realize just how much that plate restricted flow. There was a little bit of particle buildup on the bottom plate inside the res but it didnt seem too bad.
thanks again for the help!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> well i took the plate out and right away im getting a LOT more movement inside the res. Guess i didnt realize just how much that plate restricted flow. There was a little bit of particle buildup on the bottom plate inside the res but it didnt seem too bad.
> thanks again for the help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Boosh!

glad it got sorted


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> well i took the plate out and right away im getting a LOT more movement inside the res. Guess i didnt realize just how much that plate restricted flow. There was a little bit of particle buildup on the bottom plate inside the res but it didnt seem too bad.
> thanks again for the help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Black magic


----------



## vilius572

I haven't read so much but I just want to know if I can make Pastel Sunset Yellow to react with UV light? Anyway how good is Pastel ?


----------



## Mayhem

@M3TAl If that was dye that caused that id give him my wages for the week. How ever it would be good to get a sample from it to look at.

@vilius572 If you after UV effect yellow then you would need to use laser green. How ever it will ruin the look of the yellow pastel.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @M3TAl If that was dye that caused that id give him my wages for the week. How ever it would be good to get a sample from it to look at.
> 
> @vilius572 If you after UV effect yellow then you would need to use laser green. How ever it will ruin the look of the yellow pastel.


I will be fine with normal pastel then


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Not trying to start any Mayhems hate, just curious what's wrong with this guy's loop? Said he's using Advanced LRT with X1 clear and Mayhems dark blue dye so it shouldn't be plasticizer?


I have seen this happen from first hand experience due to oxidation from black QDC's or issues with unclean rads (like Alphacools)

It looks like its similar to this white crust that formed on my QDC's and it got everywhere in my loop.


----------



## M3TAl

That crud looks all kinds of nasty


----------



## cyphon

That really is pretty gross........


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I have seen this happen from first hand experience due to oxidation from black QDC's or issues with unclean rads (like Alphacools)
> 
> It looks like its similar to this white crust that formed on my QDC's and it got everywhere in my loop.


Looks like a AA battery when it's left in an old toy for too long.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Mayhems stopped production of all aurora 2 colours except those three, since they can be easily mixed with dyes. They did, however, do most colours for a short run so yes if it's listed as Aurora 2 it probably is aurora 2. Aurora likes single row rads, I can't find the row count of the EK-PE series. Most any rads with single rows will work well with aurora. The more rows a radiator will have the lower the internal velocities will be, as well as having more deadzones for the particles to get stuck in. So take a flashlight to the rad core and check. Of course, if you're just going to have one rad in the loop a dual row setup won't do too much harm.


By rows are you referring to single or dual pass radiators? Every radiators besides crossflow radiators are dual pass. Well besides Mayhems quad-pass.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> By rows are you referring to single or dual pass radiators? Every radiators besides crossflow radiators are dual pass. Well besides Mayhems quad-pass.


I think he means the rows of tubing in the rads


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I think he means the rows of tubing in the rads


If that was the case every radiator would have more than two rows. 120mm radiators would have at least 12.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If that was the case every radiator would have more than two rows. 120mm radiators would have at least 12.


Think it depends on what you call a row lol. These have stacked tubes that I think he refers to as the rows


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> By rows are you referring to single or dual pass radiators? Every radiators besides crossflow radiators are dual pass. Well besides Mayhems quad-pass.


Those are passes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> If that was the case every radiator would have more than two rows. 120mm radiators would have at least 12.


Those are lanes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Think it depends on what you call a row lol. These have stacked tubes that I think he refers to as the rows


See how there's upper lanes and lower lanes on this rad lowfat? That's dual row. Add another set of lanes and it's triple row. You follow me?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Those are lanes


Actually I think they are called tubes. At least that is what google has been telling me.
Quote:


> See how there's upper lanes and lower lanes on this rad lowfat? That's dual row. Add another set of lanes and it's triple row. You follow me?


But yes you are right. I was mistaken.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Actually I think they are called tubes. At least that is what google has been telling me.
> But yes you are right. I was mistaken.


The problem with calling them tubes is I can say the radiator has 24 tubes and if I call them tubes instead of lanes, or some people refer to them as columns, I picture a rad with 24 lanes, when in reality it could be dual row with 12 lanes. So yeah, each individual lane is a tube, but it's easier to refer to the rad core by lane/column and row. Makes it simpler to talk about. Anyways, all getting a little off topic. More rows means lower velocities and more protrusions in the end chambers (which can also be seen in cyphons pic) which makes more areas for aurora to fall out of suspension, it likes single row radiators. Generally how many lanes a radiator has won't be a big issue, as it's going to be the difference between 4 lanes in parallel and 7 lanes in parallel, since the rads are dual pass. Coolant velocities won't take too big of a hit with more lanes, more rows though...


----------



## VSG

The only rads with tubes are those like the Mo.Ra.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The only rads with tubes are those like the Mo.Ra.


I guess that depends on how you define a tube. I could call a single lane a tube. It's essentially just a smashed tube, right?







Anyways, Mo-ra has a deplorable pressure drop but you gotta love that build quality and pressure rating, 5 bars! I could use 6 PMP-500s with that. XD Not sure why'd I'd want to, but yeah. Anyways, it's all getting a little off topic. This does make me wonder though, hey Mick do you have any Aurora testing with the MoRa? I'd imagine if you can keep flow rates up it would work, it's just one really long copper tube rewound on itself.


----------



## VSG

That's an interesting question. I have a Mo.Ra and it eats pumps for breakfast. An Mcp35x2 just about works in a loop with just it and some QDCs.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's an interesting question. I have a Mo.Ra and it eats pumps for breakfast. An Mcp35x2 just about works in a loop with just it and some QDCs.


You wouldn't happen to have a flow rate gauge would you? I'd be interested to see what kind of flowrate you're going with an MCP35x2


----------



## VSG

I did a brief test: http://www.overclock.net/t/1491508/sponsored-the-utterly-imbalanced-caselabs-tx10-d-build-s/350_50#post_22604716

I am waiting to see if I get the mcp50x pumps from Swiftech for a more detailed test. I'd love to get those and two D5 pumps/one D5 Strong to do a comparison.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's an interesting question*. I have a Mo.Ra and it eats pumps for breakfast.* An Mcp35x2 just about works in a loop with just it and some QDCs.












While on the topic of rads, mayhem, when them quad passes hitting the shelves?


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While on the topic of rads, mayhem, when them quad passes hitting the shelves?


This.

Also trying to figure out how to use some Aurora 2 in my build, but to many blocks I think.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While on the topic of rads, mayhem, when them quad passes hitting the shelves?


They had to redesign something on the radiators lately so they postpone the release a little bit


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> This.
> 
> Also trying to figure out how to use some Aurora 2 in my build, but to many blocks I think.


Dual loop it, one for the CPU loop, one for the GPU loop.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen this happen from first hand experience due to oxidation from black QDC's or issues with unclean rads (like Alphacools)
> 
> It looks like its similar to this white crust that formed on my QDC's and it got everywhere in my loop.


Iv'e had this happen before, the funny thing was it only accumulated on Swiftech fittings. Everything else was flawless. Fins on blocks were clean, water was clean, but the Swiftech fittings were grimy as hell. Happened while using Liquid Utopia, and also happened while using dead water + silver. I'm now using what I like to call "Mayhem's Whiskey Blend" (X1 clear). I intentionally put more of these old swiftech fittings in, to see if it would happen again. I used brand new ones in an attempt at not skewing the results.

It almost looked like the black powder coat its self was being consumed / corroding.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Iv'e had this happen before, the funny thing was it only accumulated on Swiftech fittings. Everything else was flawless. Fins on blocks were clean, water was clean, but the Swiftech fittings were grimy as hell. Happened while using Liquid Utopia, and also happened while using dead water + silver. I'm now using what I like to call "Mayhem's Whiskey Blend" (X1 clear). I intentionally put more of these old swiftech fittings in, to see if it would happen again. I used brand new ones in an attempt at not skewing the results.
> 
> It almost looked like the black powder coat its self was being consumed / corroding.


I tried Swittech fittings once...wish they lasted long enough to even get to the point where they could corrode....the rotaries I had, literally just crumbled at the slightest bit of pressured (basically when tube was on). We're talking full separation at the rotary joint where I was holding 2 pieces.....

Bram hooked me up with new ones, but I just can't pull myself to actually use them, so they are sitting in my box of old fittings.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I tried Swittech fittings once...wish they lasted long enough to even get to the point where they could corrode....the rotaries I had, literally just crumbled at the slightest bit of pressured (basically when tube was on). We're talking full separation at the rotary joint where I was holding 2 pieces.....
> 
> Bram hooked me up with new ones, but I just can't pull myself to actually use them, so they are sitting in my box of old fittings.


When did this happen? Swiftech has FINALLY overhauled their fitting selection... Likely due to never ending quality control complaints... People harp on Alphacool for making total crap, these people have not dealt with the *old* Swiftech fittings. Hell, in my experience Alphacool's quality has increased quite a bit over the last year. They are my go-to brand for fittings that people will never see.


----------



## McMogg

I use cheap ol' XSPC coin-fit compressions, never had any issues at all, no gunk, no corrosion, no leaks. Thinking about it, the only time I had problems was fitting one into a extender type fitting on an EK pump-top/res. And they're one of the cheapest fittings I can get!

Looking forwards to getting back from holiday, two new rads, new fans, new fittings, new pump/res and 2L of Mayhems mint green pastel!! Also didn't forget a Blitz Pro kit!
I've watercooled before, but I've never been this excited!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> When did this happen? Swiftech has FINALLY overhauled their fitting selection... Likely due to never ending quality control complaints... People harp on Alphacool for making total crap, these people have not dealt with the *old* Swiftech fittings. Hell, in my experience Alphacool's quality has increased quite a bit over the last year. They are my go-to brand for fittings that people will never see.


Couple months ago (polar vortex build).


----------



## Mayhem

Dave Alcock system was shown on the BBC new containing mayhems aurora -> http://www.bbc.com/news/entertainment-arts-28923671


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dave Alcock system was shown on the BBC new containing mayhems aurora -> http://www.bbc.com/news/entertainment-arts-28923671


Lol nice


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While on the topic of rads, mayhem, when them quad passes hitting the shelves?
> 
> 
> 
> They had to redesign something on the radiators lately so they postpone the release a little bit
Click to expand...

Yup due to some small legality and a company with some concerns we've re tooled and done some very slight changes to the design so that we do not now have any issues.

The new designs have been registered in the EU so we now own all the rights









Making rads is not a simple process and its bound to upset a few companies here and there


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yup due to some small legality and a company with some concerns we've re tooled and done some very slight changes to the design so that we do now have any issues.
> 
> The new designs have been registered in the EU so we now all own the rights
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making rads is not a simple process and its bound to upset a few companies here and there


Glad you got it sorted. Unfortunately I think I will have to wait until my next build to use them


----------



## pathfindercod

Kudos Mayhem! I really dig the pastel red, I have switched my new build from blood red to pastel red and like it much better. Excellent stuff... Can't wait to start my next build now and I haven't even finished this one, lol.


----------



## midnytwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Glad you got it sorted. Unfortunately I think I will have to wait until my next build to use them


Yeah, me too. I've been holding my loop upgrade for this. Torn between the Havoc and the Nemesis. Can't wait to see some reviews!


----------



## devilhead

is it worth to use aurora 2 in this build? i have 3 liters of red aurora 2, but afraid that all particles will stuck somewhere







or just go with pastel?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> is it worth to use aurora 2 in this build? i have 3 liters of red aurora 2, but afraid that all particles will stuck somewhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or just go with pastel?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'd go pastel for prolonged use in that one


----------



## Friction

Just purchased my first ever bottle of coolant - Pastel Ice White to go in my Black and White themed Corsair 540.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Hey Mayhems users,

My modding project is complete, and I would like to present to you the final photoshoot for my rig. It's name is Monolith! This build uses Mayhems Pastel Raspberry Purple coolant.




Spoiler: Massive photodump!


















































Thank you so much for checking out my build! I am working on a video walkthrough of the mod as I type this









Best regards,
Justin "MetallicAcid" Ohlsen


----------



## McMogg

Hnnnnnngg..that is beautiful


----------



## cyphon

Nice build metallicacid. I am not usually a fan of external rads, but I think you pulled it off nicely


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McMogg*
> 
> Hnnnnnngg..that is beautiful


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Nice build metallicacid. I am not usually a fan of external rads, but I think you pulled it off nicely


Thank you my friends









Kind regards
Justin


----------



## Mayhem

@MetallicAcid Im so jealous ... very good well done


----------



## ozzy1925

i got my mayhems blitz pro and pastel white fluids from ppcs today.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i got my mayhems blitz pro and pastel white fluids from ppcs today.


Very nice


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Very nice


thanks, cant wait to fill my loop


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @MetallicAcid Im so jealous ... very good well done


Thank you Mayhem







I am happy that the Mayhems coolant exists









Best regards,
Justin


----------



## 7Mine7

Hi

i send an E-mail to Mayhems support 3 days ago but no response ,, so i will drop my concern here

I just used your Mayhems ( X1 Clear concentrate ) in my system ,, unfortunately now the water in my reservoir now looks unclear ( Foggy) and have some bubbles ,, especially when the system ( Pump ) is running




i didn't used any type of chemicals with the DI water in my previous loop ,, and i did flushed the system once with DI water before adding the mix ( X1 + DI water )

did i do something wrong ?! is this common issue with this product ?!

Awaiting your response ,, with Best Regards


----------



## Mayhem

@7Mine7 i am the guy who deals with support and i haven't received a email reference this. Please PM me your details across so i can double check.

As for bubbles you need to remove air out of you system,

what rads are you running and how did you clean them out.


----------



## 7Mine7

Hi Mayhems and thanks for your quick reply

i don't have any reference also i just have one e-mail thanking me for contacting Mayhems Product Support

any way i just reduced the pump speed and the water looks clear right now !! could the high flow cause such thing ?!

i have ( xt45 360mm + UT60 240mm) with Swiftech MCP655 ,, they Water was crystal clear before i change it ,, and when i change some of the tubes i went and clean my rads again with DI water only

i let the pump run for 4 hours while moving the PC to make sure there is no trapped air bubbles ,, i thought it was enough

i didn't face the same foggy reservoir before i add the X1 even with High pump speed ,, kinda strange !!

Thanks Again


----------



## Mayhem

boom there you go - UT60 This is a alphacool and from all my experience with alphacool rads i can only recommend you use our blitz kit and im sorry to say that's not a marketing ploy but a freezable product to clean those rads out.. As for bubble yes fill res up and get that air out of there







this takes time and slowing down the pump can help but also tipping you Pc around will also help allot.


----------



## cyphon

Yeah alphastool doesn't clean their rads worth a crap and you have to declare chemical warfare on them before using.

One water flush is definitely not enough


----------



## cyphon

Bout to blitz my rads. will post pics tomorrow sometime probably


----------



## Enhasa

Hi,

I have a few quick questions with regards to my coolant.

I am using Mayhems Pastel UV White, and I noticed some settling at the bottom of the res. Is this normal? Or should I stop using my computer right away and flush everything?

I am using EK waterblocks, Primochill advanced LRT tubing, Black Ice radiator, EK pump and monsoon fittings, if that matters.

Please let me know. Your help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## ccRicers

Hi, I think I am going to join the club soon and have a question about some of the dyes. I hear that certain colors have a tendency to stain the water blocks when you use them long enough, and I want to know if the Dark Blue regular dye will be susceptible to doing this. I plan to get it close to the full "deepness" of the blue color.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enhasa*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have a few quick questions with regards to my coolant.
> 
> I am using Mayhems Pastel UV White, and I noticed some settling at the bottom of the res. Is this normal? Or should I stop using my computer right away and flush everything?
> 
> I am using EK waterblocks, Primochill advanced LRT tubing, Black Ice radiator, EK pump and monsoon fittings, if that matters.
> 
> Please let me know. Your help is greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's filled with nano particles, if you turn the pump off they are going to settle. When you turn the pump back on it should kick everything back into suspension, if it doesn't you don't have enough flow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Hi, I think I am going to join the club soon and have a question about some of the dyes. I hear that certain colors have a tendency to stain the water blocks when you use them long enough, and I want to know if the Dark Blue regular dye will be susceptible to doing this. I plan to get it close to the full "deepness" of the blue color.


Dye will stain, that's what dyes do. Dark blue and red are the worst, but you can most blocks to remove the discolouring. If it stains your stuff the colour you want your loop to be there's really no big worry, it's not going to ruin the look of the build, it probably won't even be noticeable until you drain. The intensity of dye staining is vastly over-exaggerated, it's more of a minor tint than a stain.


----------



## corysti

Hey, I'm working on a new build ans I was curious if anyone has figured out a color combo that will work with the new rog boards with the darker red? Possible in pastel?


----------



## Enhasa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It's filled with nano particles, if you turn the pump off they are going to settle. When you turn the pump back on it should kick everything back into suspension, if it doesn't you don't have enough flow.


Thanks!
So it is safe to continue running my system?

I've kept the computer on since I made the last post, so it's been running for several hours now.
Everything is still kinda at the bottom, with the top being clearer as compared to bottom.
Another problem I am having is that both the res input and output are at the bottom, so the liquid at the top of the reservoir doesn't really "mix" or stir since the flows are at the bottom. Will this impact the computer in any way whatsoever?

Should I also turn my pump up then?

Will this cause any clogs / stains or any other problems if I continue running the system?

Really appreciate your help!!!

(turned on UV to show the difference better).


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enhasa*
> 
> Thanks!
> So it is safe to continue running my system?
> 
> I've kept the computer on since I made the last post, so it's been running for several hours now.
> Everything is still kinda at the bottom, with the top being clearer as compared to bottom.
> Another problem I am having is that both the res input and output are at the bottom, so the liquid at the top of the reservoir doesn't really "mix" or stir since the flows are at the bottom. Will this impact the computer in any way whatsoever?
> 
> Should I also turn my pump up then?
> 
> Will this cause any clogs / stains or any other problems if I continue running the system?
> 
> Really appreciate your help!!!
> 
> (turned on UV to show the difference better).


Turn up pump to highest setting, see if that kicks it up to a proper uniform opacity. If it doesn't, it shouldn't effect performance nor will it clog anything.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Hey, I'm working on a new build ans I was curious if anyone has figured out a color combo that will work with the new rog boards with the darker red? Possible in pastel?


Nothing precise, but you can add deep red dye to pastel red and get a good darker red


----------



## cyphon

Mayhems Blitz Kitz Part1 VS HWLabs SR1

Subjects


After Draining Part 1


After Flushing All 3 rads



Hard to tell from the pics, but the drained water had a slight twinge of blue. You can see some artifacts in the bottom of the sink.

Overall, have to say good job to the folks at HWLabs as these rads were honestly pretty clean to start and I probably could have gotten by with the hot water flush method. Almost want to buy an alphastool rad just to use some of my other part1 solution and compare results


----------



## Mayhem

HWL does a good job we could if we wished rate 80% of the rads for there delivered cleanliness how ever that would be unfair as even new rad's could do with a rinse though. The cleanest rads we've had though has to be a XSPC followed by EK. There the top two rads for cleanliness out of the box but still could do with a simple quick flush.


----------



## VSG

Micky, I know I haven't had experience with as many rads as you but Swiftech seems to be doing things right too now. I would put XSPC-Swiftech-HardwareLabs-Watercool-Phobya-Alphacool in the order of rads I have.


----------



## Mayhem

I have to admit here and now i have never had, touched or played with a Swiftech rad so cannot say what they are like :/ Ive had many over the years but just my two fav are said in my listing







. What alphacool remind me of years ago when rads needed a mentally good flushing ...

Swiftech are not big over in the UK as say EK / XSPC and many others.

I cannot dispute some thing i have no knowledge off lol.


----------



## VSG

Ya Swiftech are mostly in North America


----------



## tatmMRKIV

So whats the deal with aurora 2 and some highflow situations?

I was gonna grab some blue and galaxy purple but geg says its not good for complex loops.

basically I am have a 2loop system
1 loop for gpus one for mobo/cpu

I was planning on getting the fullcover x99 block

i had said something to EK about being cautious about using colored liquids and they said it wasthe tubing that causes issues not the coolant.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> So whats the deal with aurora 2 and some highflow situations?
> 
> I was gonna grab some blue and galaxy purple but geg says its not good for complex loops.
> 
> basically I am have a 2loop system
> 1 loop for gpus one for mobo/cpu
> 
> I was planning on getting the fullcover x99 block
> 
> i had said something to EK about being cautious about using colored liquids and they said it wasthe tubing that causes issues not the coolant.


Okay, nanofluid 101: It's a bunch of particles held in suspension within a liquid. Where there is zero flow particles will fall out of suspension. Where there is crevices particles will get stuck. Increasing flow increases turbulence, more turbulence prevents the particles from falling out of suspension. The primary area you're going to have particle buildup is in the radiators. Basically you have rows and columns of tubes, with each tube protruding into the each side of the end chamber. Each one of those chamber protrusions add a deadzone for particles to build up. More tubes also means lower coolant velocities. For this reason you ideally want single row radiators. You'll also want to remove any injection plates/jet plates on a CPU block if they're removable, particles like to get stuck in there. The more particles fall out of suspension the more of the effect you lose. Keeping simple loops prevents particles from falling out of suspension.

Hope that helps.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Yeah that did. I got a few super high flow rads, but only one of 4 rads in this build, is gonna be one of those high flow rads. So sounds like thats not working
My other rads were going to be 2 RX480 xspc v3 and a black ice nemisis 360 dual core gtx

you know if ice dragon has the same issue?

If I can't do those aurora 2 colors I am trying for a monochrome any recommendations on some black fluid? or am I better off with just some black advanced LRT

I am looking for relatively low maintenance loop as Its gonna be a little difficult to get to

but also I am using some commercial grade d5 pumps so I will have ridiculous head presssure


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Dye will stain, that's what dyes do. Dark blue and red are the worst, but you can most blocks to remove the discolouring. If it stains your stuff the colour you want your loop to be there's really no big worry, it's not going to ruin the look of the build, it probably won't even be noticeable until you drain. The intensity of dye staining is vastly over-exaggerated, it's more of a minor tint than a stain.


Thanks, that helps. Looks like I'm good to go with the blue then. My build's color scheme is mostly neutral so it would go well with many colors but I don't think I'll be changing the dye very often.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Yeah that did. I got a few super high flow rads, but only one of 4 rads in this build, is gonna be one of those high flow rads. So sounds like thats not working
> My other rads were going to be 2 RX480 xspc v3 and a black ice nemisis 360 dual core gtx
> 
> you know if ice dragon has the same issue?
> 
> If I can't do those aurora 2 colors I am trying for a monochrome any recommendations on some black fluid? or am I better off with just some black advanced LRT
> 
> I am looking for relatively low maintenance loop as Its gonna be a little difficult to get to
> 
> but also I am using some commercial grade d5 pumps so I will have ridiculous head presssure


I prefer to avoid coloured tubing, it looks rather tacky imho. RX and GTX are all triple row if I recall correctly, not your ideal Aurora rad. Pastel coolant is a nanofluid as well, all the same physics apply, but it's MUCH less likely to fall out of suspension. Ceramics are just better at staying in suspension I guess. (Pastel is extremely similar to ICD) Pastel black is going to be black as coal, black as night. Do a proper blitz of the rads before using pastel black, as it's prone to discolouration from flux. A good cleaning of the rads will prevent this discolouration. Pastel will last a couple years before you need to tear down, clean, flush, etc. A2 needs to be flushed/cleaned out yearly.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

yearly isn't a thing I just don't want to disassemble every other month

or have any block staining because this used dtsniper I got was atrocious to clean

also I guess I am doing plexi for this build so I want that to remain unstained


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> yearly isn't a thing I just don't want to disassemble every other month
> 
> or have any block staining because this used dtsniper I got was atrocious to clean
> 
> also I guess I am doing plexi for this build so I want that to remain unstained


if you don't want staining look into the Clear/UV Blue, supposedly the only color that doesn't stain


----------



## tatmMRKIV

thanks! masterkleer UVblue tubing optimal per chance?
I was thinking about using that fluid anyways so I might just do it.. UV is going to be harsh on my eyes though
and not gonna pop as much without UV on those acrylic blocks


----------



## Mayhem

Aurora 2 concentrate + Pastel concentrate + Red Dye and Emerald Green Dye = Liquid Metal aka Liquid Adamantium


----------



## VSG

Cement?


----------



## Mayhem

need to do a vid it looks better in real life


----------



## ccRicers

Looks like the same color that is used in the Gray Matter build, just more metallic. (I saw your vid on how to make Pastel Gray and by comparison that color had a more bluish tint)


----------



## Knight Rider

Hello there,

Do I have enough of one 250ml bottle of Mayhems Blitz part 1 for cleaning my two brand new Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper Quad 120mm Radiator?

Thank You.


----------



## VSG

Yes, you will be fine. Remember you get 1 liter of effective solution after dilution in distilled water


----------



## Knight Rider

Ok thank you very much


----------



## sadeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Aurora 2 concentrate + Pastel concentrate + Red Dye and Emerald Green Dye = Liquid Metal aka Liquid Adamantium


I asked a few pages ago about mixing Aurora 2 concentrate and Pastel concentrate, but someone advised against it. Would it be a problem to mix Aurora 2 Supernova with Pastel Ice White? If not, what ratio should I use? I need a really good white fluid for my build. I love the look of Aurora, but the Supernova looks too silver to me on its own.


----------



## Mayhem

Thr problem is its still A2 and in some systems this does not last so we will still advise against it. The cost to make this is not cheap how ever you can experiment we are only advising you based on is it worth it.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Thr problem is its still A2 and in some systems this does not last so we will still advise against it. The cost to make this is not cheap how ever you can experiment we are only advising you based on is it worth it.


So no chem reactions with the new A2 formula, and pastel?


----------



## Mayhem

No retractions we've based A2 on the Pastel formula with some extras so no issues at all how ever its still A2 so there is still the normally issues.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No retractions we've based A2 on the Pastel formula with some extras so no issues at all how ever its still A2 so there is still the normally issues.


Duly noted







What's the recommended mixing ratios, if someone were to mix A2 with Pastel? Or are you going to go over that in the video.


----------



## sadeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Thr problem is its still A2 and in some systems this does not last so we will still advise against it. The cost to make this is not cheap how ever you can experiment we are only advising you based on is it worth it.


Good to know thanks.


----------



## D0U8L3M

So this happened when i was draining my system today. Really bad staining, and that's the primochill advanced tubing recommended by mayhems. I was running uv blue x1 coolant and some extra uv blue dye to try to make it more vibrant. I made sure to clean the loop before putting the final coolant in it with distilled water and the sysprep that comes with the primochill tubing. after the sys prep i ran pure distled through the look a few more times to make sure it was clean. So either i did something wrong, primochills tubing sucks, or mayhems dye stains this type of tubing.



Not trying to start stuff here just wanna know what to do to prevent this next time, i could always just switch to colored tubing but nothing matches the color i want like these dyes.

Thoughts?
Thanks!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> if you don't want staining look into the Clear/UV Blue, supposedly the only color that doesn't stain


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M*
> 
> So this happened when i was draining my system today. Really bad staining, and that's the primochill advanced tubing recommended by mayhems. I was running uv blue x1 coolant and some extra uv blue dye to try to make it more vibrant. I made sure to clean the loop before putting the final coolant in it with distilled water and the sysprep that comes with the primochill tubing. after the sys prep i ran pure distled through the look a few more times to make sure it was clean. So either i did something wrong, primochills tubing sucks, or mayhems dye stains this type of tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> Not trying to start stuff here just wanna know what to do to prevent this next time, i could always just switch to colored tubing but nothing matches the color i want like these dyes.
> 
> Thoughts?
> Thanks!


Ummm, why on earth would blue dye stain tubing yellow? Primochill Adv LRT is prone to discolouration with higher temp loops. It is still the suggested flexible tubing due to it's lack of certain plasticizers. (The name of the specific type eludes me) What you see is discolouration, pure and simple, it's not plasticizers nor is it staining. If you want permanently clear tubing you need to switch to rigid tubing. Unfortunately there aren't any picture perfect flex tubing. So yeah, hope that clears things up.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Rigid acrylic tubing is that last thing I want to deal with.
I'd do copper or nickel plated brass first

I can't imagine how you can actually line up the tubing with the holes, exact enough.

especially since you need a heatgun to make it malleable

zythe you should be nicer

"Ummm, why on earth would blue dye stain tubing yellow? Primochill Adv LRT is prone to discolouration with higher temp loops. It is still the suggested flexible tubing due to it's lack of certain plasticizers. (The name of the specific type eludes me) What you see is discolouration, pure and simple, it's not plasticizers nor is it staining. "

sounds like you are going off on someone because they misused lingo... WTH ?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> *snip*
> 
> zythe you should be nicer
> 
> "Ummm, why on earth would blue dye stain tubing yellow? Primochill Adv LRT is prone to discolouration with higher temp loops. It is still the suggested flexible tubing due to it's lack of certain plasticizers. (The name of the specific type eludes me) What you see is discolouration, pure and simple, it's not plasticizers nor is it staining. "
> 
> sounds like you are going off on someone because they misused lingo... WTH ?


Well it's a valid question!







If I have blue dye, how is it going to turn the tubing yellow. Sorry if that seems mean, but It just seems like a silly question/accusation. I gave him an answer, with description as to why it happens, why it's the recommended tubing, and how to avoid it.


----------



## kizwan

What's wrong with the reply?







I would imagine blue dye will leave blue stains, not yellow. It's not staining but tube discolouration. Even if OP only use distilled water (without dye), the tube will still yellowing.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Ummm, why on earth would blue dye stain tubing yellow? Primochill Adv LRT is prone to discolouration with higher temp loops. It is still the suggested flexible tubing due to it's lack of certain plasticizers. (The name of the specific type eludes me) What you see is discolouration, pure and simple, it's not plasticizers nor is it staining. If you want permanently clear tubing you need to switch to rigid tubing. Unfortunately there aren't any picture perfect flex tubing. So yeah, hope that clears things up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> What's wrong with the reply?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would imagine blue dye will leave blue stains, not yellow. It's not staining but tube discolouration. Even if OP only use distilled water (without dye), the tube will still yellowing.


So your saying average 25C is a high enough temp to cause discoloration? That loop has a 360 and a 120 rad in series for just the cpu (4770k).

If thats the case then that blows...i really dont wanna touch acrylic tubing too much of a hassle. And to be fair it dosnt look that yellow in person its more of a greenish blue, which is why i thought it was staining.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M*
> 
> So your saying average 25C is a high enough temp to cause discoloration? That loop has a 360 and a 120 rad in series for just the cpu (4770k).
> 
> If thats the case then that blows...i really dont wanna touch acrylic tubing too much of a hassle. And to be fair it dosnt look that yellow in person its more of a greenish blue, which is why i thought it was staining.


If your average water temps are only 25c then it sure can't be from the temps. I converted from soft tubing because that seemed to me to be more of a headache.







I was worried going to acrylic myself, but I knew I wouldn't be bending as I don't like the look myself. If your gonna bend might as well use soft tubing I thought! I had fun using acrylic as just like soft tubing you measure and cut, sand and use a reamer on the ends and your good to go. This was my second water cooled build the first was with soft tubing.


----------



## Mayhem

Yes that tubing does turn yellow some times faster in some loops how ever its still is the best flexible tubing cos it doesn't mess up your loop.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M*
> 
> So your saying average 25C is a high enough temp to cause discoloration? That loop has a 360 and a 120 rad in series for just the cpu (4770k).
> 
> If thats the case then that blows...i really dont wanna touch acrylic tubing too much of a hassle. And to be fair it dosnt look that yellow in person its more of a greenish blue, which is why i thought it was staining.


Is your loop 25c or is your ambient 25c? Anyways, discolouration is a common issue adv LRT after a while. I've seen it more commonly reported with loop temps in the 32c range, give or take a few degrees. It's an issue with or without dyes. I wouldn't recommend trying another tubing, once you get plasticizers leeching... oh god, never again. They get EVERYWHERE. You'll be sitting with a toothbrush for an hour or so scrubbing everything. Anyways, those are the facts. Adv LRT lasts from one teardown to the next before the discolouration becomes a detriment to aesthetics.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M*
> 
> So this happened when i was draining my system today. Really bad staining, and that's the primochill advanced tubing recommended by mayhems. I was running uv blue x1 coolant and some extra uv blue dye to try to make it more vibrant. I made sure to clean the loop before putting the final coolant in it with distilled water and the sysprep that comes with the primochill tubing. after the sys prep i ran pure distled through the look a few more times to make sure it was clean. So either i did something wrong, primochills tubing sucks, or mayhems dye stains this type of tubing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not trying to start stuff here just wanna know what to do to prevent this next time, i could always just switch to colored tubing but nothing matches the color i want like these dyes.
> 
> Thoughts?
> Thanks!


As others mentions, dyes stain the color that they are. Dyes will always cause some staining, there is really no avoiding it.

In your case, if you had a staining from the dye, the staining would be blue, since you had blue dye. The yellow does indicate discoloration as others have mentioned, which is known to happen in most flexible tubing (norprene excluded).

Temperature is the most common cause of the discoloration. When it happens, is kind of erratic and there is really no way to know if or when it will happen. You can see people run it for a year or two with no signs and people run it for a month and have it bad. Could be something in the manufacturing or something?????

side note: that sysprep stuff primochill ships is pretty much useless









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M*
> 
> So your saying average 25C is a high enough temp to cause discoloration? That loop has a 360 and a 120 rad in series for just the cpu (4770k).
> 
> If thats the case then that blows...i really dont wanna touch acrylic tubing too much of a hassle. And to be fair it dosnt look that yellow in person its more of a greenish blue, which is why i thought it was staining.


Average 25C water temp or ambient temp or cpu core temp or what?
What are your min and max?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Is your loop 25c or is your ambient 25c? Anyways, discolouration is a common issue adv LRT after a while. I've seen it more commonly reported with loop temps in the 32c range, give or take a few degrees. It's an issue with or without dyes. I wouldn't recommend trying another tubing, once you get plasticizers leeching... oh god, never again. They get EVERYWHERE. You'll be sitting with a toothbrush for an hour or so scrubbing everything. Anyways, those are the facts. Adv LRT lasts from one teardown to the next before the discolouration becomes a detriment to aesthetics.


I agree that I'd take discoloration or staining over plasticizer any day. It is such a pain to get plasticizer out of things, lol


----------



## M3TAl

Been running my Adv LRT for maybe 3-4 months now. Water temp during gaming is usually anywhere from 33-37C depending on my OC that day and/or ambient. The tubing has maybe just the tinniest amount of yellow tinge to it. Still really clear but maybe just barely off/yellow.


----------



## Bertovzki

I'm a first time water cooler, and havn't even started my build yet, I have all my parts except my Bitspower fittings and EK-HD Acrylic tube and EK Supremacy CSQ clear copper CPU block.,waiting for shipment to New Zealand
But I have been intensely researching all components ,and reading threads ,I'm subscribed to 750D owners club and Mayhems.

I have chosen to go with Rigid Acrylic because I prefer the look with flowing bends ,and because I have read so much about plasticization and staining ,and now I hear about discolouration too .I am confident in my ability to bend first time,I'm patient and accurate, in general.

I do have questions too, from you experts here ,I hear that Rigid does not stain, and pink is worst ! ,UV clear blue is the only dye that does not stain, and UV yellow blue is not too bad at staining

I like the UV effect very much, and want to use some sort of green preferably ( I'm most likely to go with UV Green Yellow or X1 UV green)
, I also like blood red, and UV blue ,I also have the NZXT Hue RGB

My Questions :

1. Does rigid tube really not stain ? pink and some other stronger ,say blues ,must still stain my EK plexi clear CPU block and EK - HD rigid tube ?
2. Will green / yellow stain the above tube and CPU block ?
3. Will blood Red stain my above tube and CPU block ?
4.Any suggestions for Green ? I like the look of the X1 UV green too, its rich in depth almost like a pastel ?, the UV green / yellow looks like a bit urine without the UV light, but that might be ok if you want a yellow loop now and then lol ,just switch the UV lights off
5.Will the X1 Green stain ?

I realize colour is a personal taste thing ,and I need to make that choice ,Im just interested in the feedback and opinions and Knowledge









Thanks
Brett


----------



## Mayhem

D0U8L3M Ill suggest some thing here. The thicker the difference between OD and ID the more it is visible. We use the thinner tubing and it doesn't show up as much as what the thicker stuff does..

When using pastel it hardly shows up its only when you use clear fluids.

As for the above op i cannot comment on hard tubing as we do not use it and have never tested it sorry.


----------



## McMogg

Just installed some Pastel Mint Green - unfortunately had to sacrifice one GPU temporarily - but it looks gorgeous!! I'll let you all see when it's 100% done.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> I'm a first time water cooler, and havn't even started my build yet, I have all my parts except my Bitspower fittings and EK-HD Acrylic tube and EK Supremacy CSQ clear copper CPU block.,waiting for shipment to New Zealand
> But I have been intensely researching all components ,and reading threads ,I'm subscribed to 750D owners club and Mayhems.
> 
> I have chosen to go with Rigid Acrylic because I prefer the look with flowing bends ,and because I have read so much about plasticization and staining ,and now I hear about discolouration too .I am confident in my ability to bend first time,I'm patient and accurate, in general.
> 
> I do have questions too, from you experts here ,I hear that Rigid does not stain, and pink is worst ! ,UV clear blue is the only dye that does not stain, and UV yellow blue is not too bad at staining
> 
> I like the UV effect very much, and want to use some sort of green preferably ( I'm most likely to go with UV Green Yellow or X1 UV green)
> , I also like blood red, and UV blue ,I also have the NZXT Hue RGB
> 
> My Questions :
> 
> 1. Does rigid tube really not stain ? pink and some other stronger ,say blues ,must still stain my EK plexi clear CPU block and EK - HD rigid tube ?
> 2. Will green / yellow stain the above tube and CPU block ?
> 3. Will blood Red stain my above tube and CPU block ?
> 4.Any suggestions for Green ? I like the look of the X1 UV green too, its rich in depth almost like a pastel ?, the UV green / yellow looks like a bit urine without the UV light, but that might be ok if you want a yellow loop now and then lol ,just switch the UV lights off
> 5.Will the X1 Green stain ?
> 
> I realize colour is a personal taste thing ,and I need to make that choice ,Im just interested in the feedback and opinions and Knowledge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Brett


A dye colors things, so staining is really unavoidable....it is doing its job after all. Dyes can stain acrylic, tops, tubes, etc, yes.

Honestly though, it isn't really that big of a deal. Everyone freaks out and blows the staining way out of proportion. It is usually only after prolonged use for it to get to acrylic, you only would notice it if changeling fluid colors, you can clean the stain out a lot of times, and in regards to tubing you probably are reroute no your loop and redoing the tube at the time that you actually would notice it

If you want uv green, then what kind if green do you want. Laser green is pretty impressive, but it is pretty light. Emerald green is one I like a lot too


----------



## HiTekJeff

I am wanting to do a "Campaign Gold" ( i.e. iPhone, some vehicle colors) mix when I drain and add a new part to my system. What I need to know is if Mayhem or anyone else has tried this color or what do I need to get close to it? I want to keep using the "Pastel" coolant and add a dye to mix with it. Just not sure what combo would work?

Thanks for any tips.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> I am wanting to do a "Campaign Gold" ( i.e. iPhone, some vehicle colors) mix when I drain and add a new part to my system. What I need to know is if Mayhem or anyone else has tried this color or what do I need to get close to it? I want to keep using the "Pastel" coolant and add a dye to mix with it. Just not sure what combo would work?
> 
> Thanks for any tips.


Gold is a very hard colour to get with pastel, or any non metallic coolant for that matter. It's simply a metallic yellowish colour. The key word there is metallic, you really can't achieve a metallic colour with non metals. What does your loop consist of? I know for a fact Aurora makes for a pretty solid gold colour.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

So then what 1/2ID 3/4 OD tubing is the best? masterkleer clear/uvblue or primochill LRT?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> So then what 1/2ID 3/4 OD tubing is the best? masterkleer clear/uvblue or primochill LRT?


3/8" ID 1/2" OD would be the thinnest you could get, avoiding kinds in the tubing may be a PITA so be prepared for lots of angled fittings. Advanced LRT is the recommended tubing.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McMogg*
> 
> Just installed some Pastel Mint Green - unfortunately had to sacrifice one GPU temporarily - but it looks gorgeous!! I'll let you all see when it's 100% done.


Pics !!


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 3/8" ID 1/2" OD would be the thinnest you could get, avoiding kinds in the tubing may be a PITA so be prepared for lots of angled fittings. Advanced LRT is the recommended tubing.


That won't work with my pumps
I need 1/2ID


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Any news when the rads are releasing?


----------



## Mayhem

New tooling is complete. Test runs were being done yesterday and a sample is on it way to me for testing. Soon as i say yay then they will be in production. Even the slightest of change needs checking.

When they do arrive every single rad is being de boxed, Pressure checked, Checked for damage, graded, reboxed, The a second box will be added (double protection), then the mini Blitz Kit will be added. Then and only then will be they sold.

The first 50 or so rads (depending on demand) we will sell on pre order at a discounted price so if you would like them cheap id keep an eye on our site.

We are doing 20 rads of the 240 and 360 with just primer for users to paint as they wish.

There will be no 480's on the first run as were testing the water first time around.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Has anyone tried the Primochill or Monsoon "rigid" tubing with Mayhem's Pastel or other? Just wondering about using it when I add some new parts to my system. Otherwise, will be using the Primochill Advanced LRT as I am now. Those new rigid tubes look nice though in a build.


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> New tooling is complete. Test runs were being done yesterday and a sample is on it way to me for testing. Soon as i say yay then they will be in production. Even the slightest of change needs checking.
> 
> When they do arrive every single rad is being de boxed, Pressure checked, Checked for damage, graded, reboxed, The a second box will be added (double protection), then the mini Blitz Kit will be added. Then and only then will be they sold.
> 
> The first 50 or so rads (depending on demand) we will sell on pre order at a discounted price so if you would like them cheap id keep an eye on our site.
> 
> We are doing 20 rads of the 240 and 360 with just primer for users to paint as they wish.
> 
> There will be no 480's on the first run as were testing the water first time around.


Still waiting for 2x480's


----------



## _REAPER_

I would be happy to pay 500 dollars for 2 480s


----------



## fleetfeather

Ohh hello people









Has anyone had any luck colour-matching some coolant to the Asus z87 gold?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I would be happy to pay 500 dollars for 2 480s


just on the telephone now .. is that cash or cheque ..... lol

The problem with 480's it would have to be a batch run or pre orders to a certain amount as we wouldn't want too much stock of them. 480's are specialised and there are not many systems that can take a 480 at 63mm thickness.

@fleetfeather to darken down sunset yellow you would need to add a tiny drop of red dye (only a small amount, to much and it will turn orange) but you'll not get a gold effect as gold requires light to reflect back at you and you can only do that with Aurora.


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I would be happy to pay 500 dollars for 2 480s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just on the telephone now .. is that cash or cheque ..... lol
> 
> The problem with 480's it would have to be a batch run or pre orders to a certain amount as we wouldn't want too much stock of them. 480's are specialised and there are not many systems that can take a 480 at 63mm thickness.
Click to expand...

I would gladly pay for the batch run you just pay me back when they are sold and yes of course you would be able to make profit off of that it would just be a loan. I would gladly invest in 480s because I think you will sell them rather quickly.

Cash is the only way I operate, that or direct deposit to your account

PM me if your interested I figure 50 on a batch run would suffice so you could test the waters per say. I look at it not only as an investment to my PC but I think it will give you some exposure


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I would be happy to pay 500 dollars for 2 480s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just on the telephone now .. is that cash or cheque ..... lol
> 
> The problem with 480's it would have to be a batch run or pre orders to a certain amount as we wouldn't want too much stock of them. 480's are specialised and there are not many systems that can take a 480 at 63mm thickness.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would gladly pay for the batch run you just pay me back when they are sold and yes of course you would be able to make profit off of that it would just be a loan. I would gladly invest in 480s because I think you will sell them rather quickly.
> 
> Cash is the only way I operate, that or direct deposit to your account
> 
> PM me if your interested I figure 50 on a batch run would suffice so you could test the waters per say. I look at it not only as an investment to my PC but I think it will give you some exposure
Click to expand...

Thank you for the offer its greatly appreciated, How ever everything with in Mayhems is kept and paid for in house. What i will do is speak to the manufacturer tomorrow and see what we can do reference a short run for those people that are interested. I cannot promise any thing but i will do my best. Ill let you all know soon.


----------



## fleetfeather

Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up!


Mayhems Aurora First Generation + 5 drop / Liter Mayhems Yellow Green dye


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> I would be happy to pay 500 dollars for 2 480s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just on the telephone now .. is that cash or cheque ..... lol
> 
> The problem with 480's it would have to be a batch run or pre orders to a certain amount as we wouldn't want too much stock of them. 480's are specialised and there are not many systems that can take a 480 at 63mm thickness.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would gladly pay for the batch run you just pay me back when they are sold and yes of course you would be able to make profit off of that it would just be a loan. I would gladly invest in 480s because I think you will sell them rather quickly.
> 
> Cash is the only way I operate, that or direct deposit to your account
> 
> PM me if your interested I figure 50 on a batch run would suffice so you could test the waters per say. I look at it not only as an investment to my PC but I think it will give you some exposure
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you for the offer its greatly appreciated, How ever everything with in Mayhems is kept and paid for in house. What i will do is speak to the manufacturer tomorrow and see what we can do reference a short run for those people that are interested. I cannot promise any thing but i will do my best. Ill let you all know soon.
Click to expand...

If you shoot me a PM I will pre pay for the 2 rads that I want. I understand everything is kept in house, I appreciate that but if you wanted to say have an investment without any return on my end other than the initial investment capital that I put down to place the order for say 50 rads, then I can have an attorney or you can have your attorney draw it up. I am not looking for anything other than getting these rads to the public as fast as possible. it is a win win for me as I will get to purchase a few.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Mayhems Aurora First Generation + 5 drop / Liter Mayhems Yellow Green dye


didn't think Aurora was viable as a long term coolant? (10 months between changes)


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I need 2 480 rads







but how much? 500!? I was gonna get the black ice rads for 180 a piece


----------



## VSG

Wanted to put these in here:









The showcase was the new Supremacy Evo from EK but those dyes from Mayhems came in really handy. In case someone was wondering, it was just plain distilled (50 mL or so each) with 1-2 drops max of Deep Red, Dark Blue and UV Green. I want to try out some pastel now.


----------



## easynator

This is what the Orange Pastel looks like in my build:


----------



## VSG

Looks great!


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yf-YttsZvUA


----------



## VSG

Lol I was just going to say I spotted the Aurora use in there. Nice video


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Lol I was just going to say I spotted the Aurora use in there. Nice video


I had to make sure that it was a feature point for the video.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

What is mayhems website?


----------



## easynator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> What is mayhems website?


http://bit.ly/1sY6T1q









http://www.mayhems.co.uk/


----------



## Mayhem

@xD3aDPooLx that's a creative vid you have there, you're done a good job







ive added it on our FB if that's oky.

@gegge i was promised one of them before they came our but it never materialised which is life Ill get one once my fav water cooling shop has stock









@easynator Your case looks good and loving the colour.

This is our @Parvum case atm. They made us a custom mirror base so you can see the fluids in the GPU


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

@mich - sure its okay.


----------



## easynator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> This is our @Parvum case atm. They made us a custom mirror base so you can see the fluids in the GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You should post this build on the Official Parvum Systems Owner Club!


----------



## Mayhem

Have done just not used to posting in other forums on here haha.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> didn't think Aurora was viable as a long term coolant? (10 months between changes)


Yeah, but unless you use Aurora, it's really difficult to obtain a metallic effect in your coolant :/


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> didn't think Aurora was viable as a long term coolant? (10 months between changes)


Depends on the loop. It can stay in suspension anywhere between one year and one minute. List the components in your loop for advice/recommendations to make it good for long term aurora if you're interested in working an aurora loop long term.


----------



## easynator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Depends on the loop. It can stay in suspension anywhere between one year and one minute. List the components in your loop for advice/recommendations to make it good for long term aurora if you're interested in working an aurora loop long term.


I also thought Aurora was used for shows and/or photo shoot. I could be interested to also use aurora in my home system...

My water cooling parts are:

CPU Waterblock: Bitspower CPU Block Summit EF (Intel) White (Model 2012) (BP-WBCPUIAC-CUMBKWH)
GPU Waterblock: EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Acetal+Nickel
Radiators: 2x Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm
Tubbing: Bitspower Crystal Link Tube
Pump: DazMode STORM D5 VARIO 8-24V Pump w/TACH cable
Reservoir: Bitspower - Water Tank Z-Multi 80 - Full Clear Acrylic Version


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Yeah, but unless you use Aurora, it's really difficult to obtain a metallic effect in your coolant :/


Gotcha







I think I may be able to get away with pastel colours rather than metallics. The "gold" accents on the Asus z87 DIMM slots and PCIe slots aren't really metallic; they're just a shade of yellow. Of course, the metal parts such as the chipset heatsink are metallic though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Depends on the loop. It can stay in suspension anywhere between one year and one minute. List the components in your loop for advice/recommendations to make it good for long term aurora if you're interested in working an aurora loop long term.


Components aren't finalised, but I can do my best:

Alphacool XT45 radiators
EK Supreme HF block
[unknown GPU block]
Monsoon 90* adapters
Monsoon compressions
D5 pump w/ XSPC tank res


----------



## Sydeon

Is it normal for Pastel red to look like a light blood red? Using primochill LRT clear tubing, Could be the air bubbles that might be giving it that color.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *easynator*
> 
> I also thought Aurora was used for shows and/or photo shoot. I could be interested to also use aurora in my home system...
> 
> My water cooling parts are:
> 
> CPU Waterblock: Bitspower CPU Block Summit EF (Intel) White (Model 2012) (BP-WBCPUIAC-CUMBKWH)
> GPU Waterblock: EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Acetal+Nickel
> Radiators: 2x Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm
> Tubbing: Bitspower Crystal Link Tube
> Pump: DazMode STORM D5 VARIO 8-24V Pump w/TACH cable
> Reservoir: Bitspower - Water Tank Z-Multi 80 - Full Clear Acrylic Version


I'd rip the injection plate out of the waterblock, they really do decrease life span of aurora by a lot. Everything else looks fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Gotcha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I may be able to get away with pastel colours rather than metallics. The "gold" accents on the Asus z87 DIMM slots and PCIe slots aren't really metallic; they're just a shade of yellow. Of course, the metal parts such as the chipset heatsink are metallic though.
> Components aren't finalised, but I can do my best:
> 
> Alphacool XT45 radiators
> EK Supreme HF block
> [unknown GPU block]
> Monsoon 90* adapters
> Monsoon compressions
> D5 pump w/ XSPC tank res


If you haven't ordered the radiators, and want to use aurora, I'd get single row radiators, think ST-30: The really thin ones. Be sure to rip out the injection plate on the CPU. It'll increase core temps by a couple celsius at best, and exponentially increase aurora lifespan. Avoid 90 degree fittings if possible with Aurora.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sydeon*
> 
> Is it normal for Pastel red to look like a light blood red? Using primochill LRT clear tubing, Could be the air bubbles that might be giving it that color.


How did you clean your setup out prior to filling, and what radiators do you have? If you haven't bled the loop it may be the bubbles, but flux in radiators can cause discolouration of coolants if not properly cleaned, especially red.


----------



## Mayhem

Oky we've placed an extra order for 20 x 480 Rads (63mm thickness) and already 10x have been promised out.

We have only gone for a limited ammount due us just testing the water at this stage.

Mick


----------



## Sydeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd rip the injection plate out of the waterblock, they really do decrease life span of aurora by a lot. Everything else looks fine.
> If you haven't ordered the radiators, and want to use aurora, I'd get single row radiators, think ST-30: The really thin ones. Be sure to rip out the injection plate on the CPU. It'll increase core temps by a couple celsius at best, and exponentially increase aurora lifespan. Avoid 90 degree fittings if possible with Aurora.
> How did you clean your setup out prior to filling, and what radiators do you have? If you haven't bled the loop it may be the bubbles, but flux in radiators can cause discolouration of coolants if not properly cleaned, especially red.


I ended up changing the tubing and the coolant of the h220x. There might have been very little left of the old coolant, not sure the name of the stock coolant that came with the h220x. I've had it running for about 2 hours now, and I see almost no bubbles.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sydeon*
> 
> I ended up changing the tubing and the coolant of the h220x. There might have been very little left of the old coolant, not sure the name of the stock coolant that came with the h220x. I've had it running for about 2 hours now, and I see almost no bubbles.


But what did you do to clean the loop prior to filling? Did you just drain and fill?


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky we've placed an extra order for 20 x 480 Rads (63mm thickness) and already 10x have been promised out.
> 
> We have only gone for a limited ammount due us just testing the water at this stage.
> 
> Mick


Hi, so how i can able to get 2x of them?


----------



## Sydeon

Pretty much just made sure it was drained, I was thinking about cleaning it with distill water and then filling it, still running as I'm typing this it's dark blood red.


----------



## Sydeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> But what did you do to clean the loop prior to filling? Did you just drain and fill?


Pretty much just made sure it was drained, I was thinking about cleaning it with distill water and then filling it, still running as I'm typing this it's dark blood red.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky we've placed an extra order for 20 x 480 Rads (63mm thickness) and already 10x have been promised out.
> 
> We have only gone for a limited ammount due us just testing the water at this stage.
> 
> Mick


Micky, you get me one of these and I will get you a big boobed secretary like you always wanted. Just don't tell the missus


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky we've placed an extra order for 20 x 480 Rads (63mm thickness) and already 10x have been promised out.
> 
> We have only gone for a limited ammount due us just testing the water at this stage.
> 
> Mick












Awesome!


----------



## cyphon

Of course the rads come out just after I get my WIP rads fixed in with the hard lines.....guess I have to wait until the next build to give em a go


----------



## Mayhem

They wont be out for another 30 days at least. lol


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> They wont be out for another 30 days at least. lol


Secretary just went from 36 DD to 34 C









Side note: My local Microcenter is moving 2 miles closer to me into a much bigger location. The guy in charge of watercooling was asking about what products people would like to see made available. I gave him your contact info and asked him to see if he can directly source from you instead of FrozenCPU. He has to go through the Microcenter main office in Ohio first but hopefully it works out. They came in handy when I needed dyes for a show n' tell recently but the selection is very poor- no coolants other than 1 EK premixe, Alphacool pure distilled and Swiftech Hydrx. Ditto with rads and such.


----------



## Mayhem

haha everything is in production. If people knew what was going on behind the scenes and all the legal bumph we've had to sort out you'll be surprised how fast we've actually got this all done inc all the re tooling lol. Patience is a virtue


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Secretary just went from 36 DD to 34 C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side note: My local Microcenter is moving 2 miles closer to me into a much bigger location. The guy in charge of watercooling was asking about what products people would like to see made available. I gave him your contact info and asked him to see if he can directly source from you instead of FrozenCPU. He has to go through the Microcenter main office in Ohio first but hopefully it works out. They came in handy when I needed dyes for a show n' tell recently but the selection is very poor- no coolants other than 1 EK premixe, Alphacool pure distilled and Swiftech Hydrx. Ditto with rads and such.


Where is Microcenter moving to? Never been, it's kind of far from me. Tigerdirect/Compusa is much closer but I bet they stink compared to Microcenter.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Where is Microcenter moving to? Never been, it's kind of far from me. Tigerdirect/Compusa is much closer but I bet they stink compared to Microcenter.


http://swamplot.com/heres-the-spot-on-s-rice-and-westpark-where-micro-center-will-be-moving/2014-04-21/

Even further away from you I guess.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> http://swamplot.com/heres-the-spot-on-s-rice-and-westpark-where-micro-center-will-be-moving/2014-04-21/
> 
> Even further away from you I guess.


Ya, that location isn't really any closer







. At least way out west here we FINALLY got a Guitar Center. I had been asking for one out here since 2002'ish.


----------



## HiTekJeff

I am wanting to get a nice Grey color when I re-build my loop and have done it before using Mayhem's Pastel White, Emerald Green and Red Mayhemj Dye. However, I now see there is a Mayhem's Pastel Black. Can someone or Mayhem tell me if I can mix the black and white to get grey instead of using the Dye as before, or is the Dye method still the best?

Also, what portions of the Pastel should I use if I do mix the black and white since I won't be using a full bottle of each?

Thanks


----------



## pathfindercod

I finally and joining the Mayhems club with some Pastel Red. My build is so close to completion finally.

Pics of the Pastel Red in its glory.

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0088_zps4e5d91de.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0089_zpsc75ddbad.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0083_zps07e2edca.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0028_zps78c32610.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0037_zps902f4fce.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0039_zpsfecec4b7.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0032_zpse872428e.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0025_zps9366be3e.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0023_zps456dabc4.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0020_zps19403caf.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0024_zps0cab6689.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0015_zpsa421d898.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0008_zps7d8fd187.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0013_zps9c755851.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0041_zps837bc5cf.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0034_zpsf70f1099.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0047_zpsb52b7d3e.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0060_zpse771742a.jpg.html

link to the build for anyone interested in the other stuff.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1496953/build-log-case-labs-mercury-s8-triple-threat/100


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> I am wanting to get a nice Grey color when I re-build my loop and have done it before using Mayhem's Pastel White, Emerald Green and Red Mayhemj Dye. However, I now see there is a Mayhem's Pastel Black. Can someone or Mayhem tell me if I can mix the black and white to get grey instead of using the Dye as before, or is the Dye method still the best?
> 
> Also, what portions of the Pastel should I use if I do mix the black and white since I won't be using a full bottle of each?
> 
> Thanks


Pastel is white, period. Any colour it has is from it having dyes from the factory, the same dyes you're going to use to colour it yourself. If you're going to use a custom colour it's best to mix it yourself. Trying to throw together a couple of different colour concentrates may end up giving you some weird colour, then it can be a pain to try and figure out what dyes you need to mix to get it to the colour you need. Hope that helps.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> I finally and joining the Mayhems club with some Pastel Red. My build is so close to completion finally.
> 
> Pics of the Pastel Red in its glory.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0088_zps4e5d91de.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0089_zpsc75ddbad.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0083_zps07e2edca.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0028_zps78c32610.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0037_zps902f4fce.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0039_zpsfecec4b7.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0032_zpse872428e.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0025_zps9366be3e.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0023_zps456dabc4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0020_zps19403caf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0024_zps0cab6689.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0015_zpsa421d898.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0008_zps7d8fd187.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0013_zps9c755851.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0041_zps837bc5cf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0034_zpsf70f1099.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0047_zpsb52b7d3e.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0060_zpse771742a.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> link to the build for anyone interested in the other stuff.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1496953/build-log-case-labs-mercury-s8-triple-threat/100


Nice clean build you got there. And all the glorious red!


----------



## pathfindercod

Thank you very much







it's exciting to finally be almost done.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> I am wanting to get a nice Grey color when I re-build my loop and have done it before using Mayhem's Pastel White, Emerald Green and Red Mayhemj Dye. However, I now see there is a Mayhem's Pastel Black. Can someone or Mayhem tell me if I can mix the black and white to get grey instead of using the Dye as before, or is the Dye method still the best?
> 
> Also, what portions of the Pastel should I use if I do mix the black and white since I won't be using a full bottle of each?
> 
> Thanks


It wont work, black + white = purplish. The reason why we did the vid is to show you how to make grey was so users could make there own in the darkness they would like. Emerald Green + Red + Ice white is the way to make grey.

@geggeg thks for letting microcenter know it will be interesting to see if they do go for it. Steve will deal with the sales side of the business though so i wont be involved.

@pathfindercod Nice industrial looking build going on there.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Im looking to buy some premix pastel from performancepcs which comes in 1 liter bottles, how much would i need plus extra? would 2 litres be plenty for mITX system, this is all guesstimates lets say one gpu, cpu block, x2 ram block, 280 and 240 rad, lets say i want a completely full muilti 250 rez, and pump, will 2 liters be more then enough or should i get 3 liters?


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> I finally and joining the Mayhems club with some Pastel Red. My build is so close to completion finally.
> 
> Pics of the Pastel Red in its glory.
> 
> *snip*
> 
> link to the build for anyone interested in the other stuff.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1496953/build-log-case-labs-mercury-s8-triple-threat/100


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> I finally and joining the Mayhems club with some Pastel Red. My build is so close to completion finally.
> 
> Pics of the Pastel Red in its glory.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0088_zps4e5d91de.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0089_zpsc75ddbad.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0083_zps07e2edca.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0028_zps78c32610.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0037_zps902f4fce.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0039_zpsfecec4b7.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0032_zpse872428e.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0025_zps9366be3e.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0023_zps456dabc4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0020_zps19403caf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0024_zps0cab6689.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0015_zpsa421d898.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0008_zps7d8fd187.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0013_zps9c755851.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0041_zps837bc5cf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0034_zpsf70f1099.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0047_zpsb52b7d3e.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0060_zpse771742a.jpg.html
> 
> link to the build for anyone interested in the other stuff.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1496953/build-log-case-labs-mercury-s8-triple-threat/100


----------



## devilhead

so 3 days with aurora 2 silver, first day i was rally happy with that aurora look, second day have left just half of aurora look, and today its getting hard to see aurora















my watercooling parts: EK supremacy block, 290X EK block, EK 360 rad. + 240 XSPC rad., pump DDC-1, in my reservoir i see that the flow is pretty good, first day Aurora spinned as hell







and in loop i have jus 2x 90 degrees fittings







what can be wrong? particles have stuck somewhere?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> so 3 days with aurora 2 silver, first day i was rally happy with that aurora look, second day have left just half of aurora look, and today its getting hard to see aurora
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my watercooling parts: EK supremacy block, 290X EK block, EK 360 rad. + 240 XSPC rad., pump DDC-1, in my reservoir i see that the flow is pretty good, first day Aurora spinned as hell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and in loop i have jus 2x 90 degrees fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what can be wrong? particles have stuck somewhere?


Does the CPU waterblock still have the injection plate in it? Is the DDC adjustable?

Make sure you've ripped the injection plate out, and the pump is cranked to max if it's adjustable.


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Does the CPU waterblock still have the injection plate in it? Is the DDC adjustable?
> 
> Make sure you've ripped the injection plate out, and the pump is cranked to max if it's adjustable.


Yes, the supremacy have jet plate, and the pump is not adjustable, connected to motherboard and checked speed, shows that pump runs at ~23 000 rpm


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> Yes, the supremacy have jet plate, and the pump is not adjustable, connected to motherboard and checked speed, shows that pump runs at ~23 000 rpm


Rip out the jet plate, and check the effect. On a side note if your pump is running at 23000 RPM I'd check consult a physicist, because you broke his laws.


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Rip out the jet plate, and check the effect. On a side note if your pump is running at 23000 RPM I'd check consult a physicist, because you broke his laws.


it is a lot work to reassemble those loop, and my cpu is delidded with clu on it, but the temperatures of cpu is perfect, even those particles stuck somewhere







. here is a video of a my res. first day








https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpKO1Sceyhg&feature=youtu.be
i have 2 liters more of aurora 2, but i will try to not use anymore it, will stick with pastel line


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Does the CPU waterblock still have the injection plate in it? Is the DDC adjustable?
> 
> Make sure you've ripped the injection plate out, and the pump is cranked to max if it's adjustable.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the supremacy have jet plate, and the pump is not adjustable, connected to motherboard and checked speed, shows that pump runs at ~23 000 rpm
Click to expand...

Let's assume that that's a typo, and it's 2300 rpm . . . . . which pump is it . . . that's really slow for a max rpm.

May be that all you need is enough pump power to pick up all the particles that have dropped out of suspension and reintegrate them again.

Darlene


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Let's assume that that's a typo, and it's 2300 rpm . . . . . which pump is it . . . that's really slow for a max rpm.
> 
> May be that all you need is enough pump power to pick up all the particles that have dropped out of suspension and reintegrate them again.
> 
> Darlene


yes, i know my motherboard(ASrock z97 OC formula) shows some sh...

but from flow at first day, i saw that is decent flow in that build, those pump screams as hell (laing DDC-1), my 900D build with 2x D5 pumps makes just half of that flow


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> yes, i know my motherboard(ASrock z97 OC formula) shows some sh...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but from flow at first day, i saw that is decent flow in that build, those pump screams as hell (laing DDC-1), my 900D build with 2x D5 pumps makes just half of that flow


Here's an extracted statement that I took from the martinsliquidlab website in their Laing DDC-1 & DDC-1T test
Quote:


> I found the RPM reading was high using my crystalfontz by what I believe may be a factor of 6. RPM would read around 22,000RPM, but when divided by 6, it gives more reasonable 3600-3800 RPM.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> yes, i know my motherboard(ASrock z97 OC formula) shows some sh...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but from flow at first day, i saw that is decent flow in that build, those pump screams as hell (laing DDC-1), my 900D build with 2x D5 pumps makes just half of that flow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's an extracted statement that I took from the martinsliquidlab website in their Laing DDC-1 & DDC-1T test
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I found the RPM reading was high using my crystalfontz by what I believe may be a factor of 6. RPM would read around 22,000RPM, but when divided by 6, it gives more reasonable 3600-3800 RPM.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Good find . .

+rep


----------



## ACallander

Does removal of the jet plate hinder performance or should I just keep it installed?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> Does removal of the jet plate hinder performance or should I just keep it installed?


Removal of the jet plate will increase core temperatures by around 2 celsius but exponentially increase Aurora lifespan. This instruction is very much specific to the Aurora coolant line.


----------



## ACallander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Removal of the jet plate will increase core temperatures by around 2 celsius but exponentially increase Aurora lifespan. This instruction is very much specific to the Aurora coolant line.


Ah okay I have pastel so guess I won't touch the jet plate. Thanks for the info!


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky we've placed an extra order for 20 x 480 Rads (63mm thickness) and already 10x have been promised out.
> 
> We have only gone for a limited ammount due us just testing the water at this stage.
> 
> Mick


How are you taking preorders for these and will you be shipping to the US? I would definitely be down for one!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Good find . .
> 
> +rep


----------



## Mayhem

We have only let 10 be pre ordered due to demand (480mm). The other 10 will go on our site for sale once they are here.

Next time we place an order we will get some more 480s in how ever we will never over order on them as its just money sitting on the shelf.

We are investing in a new company that is about to be born soon as well with more goodies that we will retailing so alot is happening this year







.


----------



## DarthBaggins

So any Tim frame to when dist. here in the US will get those nice 240 & 360 rads


----------



## tatmMRKIV

looks like I am getting nemesis rads then

tried to contact mayhems for price as per website, but no response
let alone a preorder option
I like the 2 nemesis that showed up and these mayhems look like any other alphacool distributed rad so...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> looks like I am getting nemesis rads then
> 
> tried to contact mayhems for price as per website, but no response
> let alone a preorder option
> I like the 2 nemesis that showed up and these mayhems look like any other alphacool distributed rad so...


Alphacool rads are 9 fpi, dual pass and dirty at stock. The Mayhems ones are quad pass and come clean with a bundled cleaning solution- I would expect them to be better performers.

I have 2 Nemesis rads coming in from HardwareLabs tomorrow to test out in the hotbox vs my other rads, so I am looking forward to seeing how they compare with the Monsta 480, SR1 560 and AX480.


----------



## jamsomito

Can I join?










more pics here: http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/72430#post_22813231


----------



## VSG

Mick, good job with the video. Calling the video usage part 1 and then having Blitz Part 1 and 2 in the video will confuse newbs I bet.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh i understand part 2 will be covered in the next days..


----------



## Roxycon

I currently have pastel white (a bit more than 2ltr) in my system and I'm thinking on, partially, taking the transition over to acrylic tube.. Which is the easiest and cheapest way to change the white coolant to deep oil black?


----------



## djriful

That is some very detailed video demo how to use the product. XD


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

I really want to avoid taking apart the whole loop to use part 1 on the radiators. If I am switching from mayhems pastel to mayhems x1, do I need to use part 2 of the mayhems blitz kit? Will there be any issues with the x1 coolant if I don't?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> I really want to avoid taking apart the whole loop to use part 1 on the radiators. If I am switching from mayhems pastel to mayhems x1, do I need to use part 2 of the mayhems blitz kit? Will there be any issues with the x1 coolant if I don't?


Pro kit is for new radiator from the way I see it. You do it once and you can't use Part 1 in your system loop, you will destroy it.


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Pro kit is for new radiator from the way I see it. You do it once and you can't use Part 1 in your system loop, you will destroy it.


Yes, that is why I mentioned taking apart the loop to use part 1.

Do I need to use part 2 when switching from pastel to x1 or will a simple drain and re-fill work fine? Running part 2 of the kit in the loop to clean it would seem acceptable, taking apart my whole loop and removing radiators from the loop to clean it is what I definitely do not want!


----------



## Mayhem

There is a mistake in that video, ill be removing it and upping the corrected version today.


----------



## _REAPER_

Thanks again for the excellent customer service


----------



## fleetfeather

@Mayhem, I see that the cleaning kit uses Phosphoric Acid 0.1% to acid wash the radiator internals. Any reason in particular you chose to go with Phosphoric Acid? Did you conduct any experiments using any other acids?


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> @Mayhem, I see that the cleaning kit uses Phosphoric Acid 0.1% to acid wash the radiator internals. Any reason in particular you chose to go with Phosphoric Acid? Did you conduct any experiments using any other acids?


Phosphoric acid is particular, it removes rost, and create a really really thin cover on the metal to prevent corrosion (at least that was the use of it in our lab)









EDIT:

I wrote something more precise a while ago. But I'm not quite sure it works for all metals (Al, Cu, brass, whatever the rad is made of)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I work in chemistry, and I would just recommend you a better acid for this purpose:
> The Phosphoric Acid (wiki link HERE)
> 
> It is also used by Mayhems Company for their radiator flush kit
> 
> The best would be a mix of HCl and H3PO4 (5:1 , 5 parts of H3PO4 for one part of HCl)
> 
> A pH of 3.75-4 would be recommended, and let it work for at least 4-5 hours to have a good corrosion protective layer of CU3PO4
> 
> Why?
> 
> - Less dangerous emanations of Chlorine (former used as a mortal gas in 1st World War)
> - Is fairly easy to find in Drug Stores
> - End product is protecting Copper from further corrosion (H3PO4 make a protective layer of Cu3PO4 on the Cu)
> - Is also a strong acid
> - Remove Copper "rust" (oxidation with oxygen in the air and in water) (Cu2O, black-red color)
> - Remove Copper "rust" (oxidation with CO2 and oxygen in the air or with CO2 and water) (CuCO3, green color)


But I don't know if it is the reason why they choose it


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Phosphoric acid is particular, it removes rost, and create a really really thin cover on the metal to prevent corrosion (at least that was the use of it in our lab)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> I wrote something more precise a while ago. But I'm not quite sure it works for all metals (Al, Cu, brass, whatever the rad is made of)
> But I don't know if it is the reason why they choose it


Hmmmm very interesting


----------



## Mayhem

well your not far off it also can be used with some other stuff we added in to help remove crap out of the rad







.


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> well your not far off it also can be used with some other stuff we add in to help remove crap out of the rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24694/ex-liq-415/Mayhems_Blitz_Pro_Cleaning_System.html

This place that sells your kit has a video instructing users to run part 1 through their full system. Did the creator of the video not read the instructions?


----------



## VSG

I knew that Elric video was a big mistake!


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I knew that Elric video was a big mistake!


Hopefully there is someone from these forums who can contact both parties. This looks really bad for everyone. These type of mistakes can cost people thousands of dollars yet I am sure people with high end water loops know better and would not follow instructions from random youtube videos


----------



## Mayhem

Video updated and corrected >




You can see the copper ruler bit is better.


----------



## VSG

I liked the use of the MNPCTech mod ruler for the demo


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> I currently have pastel white (a bit more than 2ltr) in my system and I'm thinking on, partially, taking the transition over to acrylic tube.. Which is the easiest and cheapest way to change the white coolant to deep oil black?


Drain, flush with distilled water, fill with X1. X1 is a very versatile coolant, but just a heads up oil black isn't pitch black.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> I really want to avoid taking apart the whole loop to use part 1 on the radiators. If I am switching from mayhems pastel to mayhems x1, do I need to use part 2 of the mayhems blitz kit? Will there be any issues with the x1 coolant if I don't?


I mean you can, but without running part 1 through your loop, using part 2 would be similar to running some dish soap through it. It's just going to remove any particles and crap like that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Pro kit is for new radiator from the way I see it. You do it once and you can't use Part 1 in your system loop, you will destroy it.


Part 1 is for your radiators* It strips flux and oxidation from the radiator. The part 2 is a heavy surfactant, so will make ANYTHING in your loop instantly get thrown into suspension.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> @Mayhem, I see that the cleaning kit uses Phosphoric Acid 0.1% to acid wash the radiator internals. Any reason in particular you chose to go with Phosphoric Acid? Did you conduct any experiments using any other acids?


Extended exposure of phosphoric acid to copper will create cupric phosphate. From what I understand cupric phosphate is easily pulled into suspension with their part 2.


----------



## ppkstat

Quick questions

1) Is part 1 suitable only for the initial cleaning of dirty rads? Can it be used (is it advisable) for cleaning a rad after prolonged used (eg 2 years) that has been initially cleaned well?

2) Following part 1 wouldn't a bicarb wash make more sense than simply flushing the rad with tap water?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> Quick questions
> 
> 1) Is part 1 suitable only for the initial cleaning of dirty rads? Can it be used (is it advisable) for cleaning a rad after prolonged used (eg 2 years) that has been initially cleaned well?
> 
> 2) Following part 1 wouldn't a bicarb wash make more sense than simply flushing the rad with tap water?


1: Part one is really just to strip the flux from the solder joints. After flux has been eliminated I wouldn't recommend using it. It'll clean it out just fine, but it will strip the patina from the inside of the radiator. The patina is a natural corrosion inhibitor, stripping it will cause the surface of the copper to re-form a patina and in extent weaken the rad. If there's no flux in surface of the rads internals I'd just opt for a good surfactant rinse to clean it.

2: No, part 2 would make more sense. A bicarb is going to neutralize the pH. You really want to use part 2 if you run part one. It's formulated to pull all the crap out of the rad, including the cupric phosphate that will be formed by part 1. If you use part one definitely, 100%, absolutely use part 2. Part 2 is also a suitable cleaner if you choose not to use part 1, as you were stating you were unsure of it's necessity after it's already been cleaned and what not.

Hope that helps.


----------



## ppkstat

That does help, thank you!

So you're saying that for a flux-free rad which is just dirty from use, part 2 is the best method of cleaning?


----------



## RpeeKooz

few questions for you mayhems experts.
ive got pastel red atm and its turned pinkiish i wanna get red of it.i was gonna go with aurora 2 red.

#1 do i flush everything with the blitz kit part 2??or do i need to ????
#2 ive read that aurora is not for long periods even tho aurora 2 has been fixed...ive got cpu 2x gpu 2x480 rad 1x240 rad and acrylic tube..

should i be able to run aurora 2 for quite some time with that kind of setup

thanks in advance


----------



## Mayhem

Do not use aurora on that system. Its not built for aurora. Your Pastel Red ... why is it turning pinkish... ? What rads are you running?


----------



## RpeeKooz

phoyba 480s and xspc 240
i washed them as best i could with lemon juice when they were new and then followed by a bi carb flush for a few hours...turned pink with in a month???? hasnt changed colour since then tho still the pinkish colour.
so stick with pastel red ? and use blitz kit??


----------



## Mayhem

Oky Phobya are made by alphacool which means ......... you guessed it ..... blitz it ....


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 1: Part one is really just to strip the flux from the solder joints. After flux has been eliminated I wouldn't recommend using it. It'll clean it out just fine, but it will strip the patina from the inside of the radiator. The patina is a natural corrosion inhibitor, stripping it will cause the surface of the copper to re-form a patina and in extent weaken the rad. If there's no flux in surface of the rads internals I'd just opt for a good surfactant rinse to clean it.
> 
> 2: No, part 2 would make more sense. A bicarb is going to neutralize the pH. You really want to use part 2 if you run part one. It's formulated to pull all the crap out of the rad, including the cupric phosphate that will be formed by part 1. If you use part one definitely, 100%, absolutely use part 2. Part 2 is also a suitable cleaner if you choose not to use part 1, as you were stating you were unsure of it's necessity after it's already been cleaned and what not.
> 
> Hope that helps.


Thank you for this as well. I was confused of switching from mayhems pastel to mayhems x1 if I would need to run part 1 or if part 2 would be enough to cleanse the system. If part 1 may cause more wear on the radiators I will just use part 2 for a quick flush!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> Thank you for this as well. I was confused of switching from mayhems pastel to mayhems x1 if I would need to run part 1 or if part 2 would be enough to cleanse the system. If part 1 may cause more wear on the radiators I will just use part 2 for a quick flush!


Part 1 is excellent for ridding the rads of flux, and giving them a properly pure radiator core. Once the surface flux is gone, and the rads are all clean then, as I said, it's wise to keep the patina. Part 2 is good if you think the rads dirty with deposits, or particles.


----------



## dgraham1284

Quick question. I am switching from pastel red to their pastel blue berry. Whats the best route to flush the system out of the red? Meaning, is there anything special with the pastels or just the norm DI?

Thanks!


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgraham1284*
> 
> Quick question. I am switching from pastel red to their pastel blue berry. Whats the best route to flush the system out of the red? Meaning, is there anything special with the pastels or just the norm DI?
> 
> Thanks!


I would just disassemble them and rinse them with tap water with pump and then warm-hot distilled water. Toothbrush to get some pastel particle off which is stuck in some blocks corners.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgraham1284*
> 
> Quick question. I am switching from pastel red to their pastel blue berry. Whats the best route to flush the system out of the red? Meaning, is there anything special with the pastels or just the norm DI?
> 
> Thanks!


Part 2 of Blitz should pick up any particles stuck in the loop, followed by a thorough distilled flushing. That should suffice to get all the red dye as well as particles out of your loop. Or disassemble and grab the old toothbrush and dishsoap/warm water flush if you're cheap. Either work fine, just depends if you want easier/money option or the labor/cheap option.


----------



## greggus

It is very hard to remove the Flux inside an alphacool radiator. I used the Blitz kit pro and it's the same as before (the copper inside became really shiny so blitz kit work for the copper part, not for removing the flux). I can see some white paste around the holes inside the radiator. When using a qtip on it i can remove some but it's nearly impossible to remove it completely. Each time i put mayhems X1 clear inside it became cloudy / white within 24 hours.

I also have another alphacool that was purchase last year that do not have this problem. I think alphacool change the way they build the rad between 2013 and 2014.

In the end i buy a XSPC RX and said byebye to my monsta


----------



## VSG

Here's a look at the inside of the HWL Nemesis series of rads:







They sent over a 480 and 560mm rad for testing in the hotbox and I will to go ahead and compare my other rads as well. Since I had Mayhems Blitz go through all the existing rads, it was only fair I do that here as well. Pictures will be in a review soon but needless to say I could have just plugged this into a loop without even a distilled water flush and it would have been just fine. Very impressed by HWL so far!


----------



## McMogg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Here's a look at the inside of the HWL Nemesis series of rads:
> 
> They sent over a 480 and 560mm rad for testing in the hotbox and I will to go ahead and compare my other rads as well. Since I had Mayhems Blitz go through all the existing rads, it was only fair I do that here as well. Pictures will be in a review soon but needless to say I could have just plugged this into a loop without even a distilled water flush and it would have been just fine. Very impressed by HWL so far!


I was going to say, I bought Mayhems Blitz Pro, and with both the GTS and the GTX nemesis radiators, the fluid when I emptied it was crystal clear..

From what I can tell, they perform pretty well..


----------



## VSG

Aye. Mick's rads have these Nemesis GTX and possibly the XSPC EX V3 as best competition.

Edit: EK's sending over their PE 480 as well now for the test, never had an EK rad before so it will be good to see how they perform and how clean they are. I figure I will make a section on what rads were "clean" out of the factory in the comparison thread. Need a lot more Mayhems Blitz kits now, so that proposed Part 1/Part 2 only kit would be great to come out now


----------



## vilius572

Yesterday I filled up my system with Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow and after night I noticed something. I have some kind of white stain in my loop. Before I filled up system with mayhems I cleaned cpu block and reservoir and runned it with distilled water for two weeks.  Here is video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwLfomySZhY&list=UUd-1i67-Cyf_9VINS-6My6Q


----------



## Mayhem

Blitz video 2 of 2


----------



## VSG

Mick, I saw the new rads on your shop now. No pricing there yet, just says to contact you guys. I did that, haven't heard back in about 3 days or so. Just wondering how much the 480 would be- I am testing out a few different 480 and 560s in my hotbox to see what rads to put in my 3 loops going in the TX10 case.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Yesterday I filled up my system with Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow and after night I noticed something. I have some kind of white stain in my loop. Before I filled up system with mayhems I cleaned cpu block and reservoir and runned it with distilled water for two weeks.  Here is video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwLfomySZhY&list=UUd-1i67-Cyf_9VINS-6My6Q


almost look like air pockets, but can't completely tell w/ the glare


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> almost look like air pockets, but can't completely tell w/ the glare


Look video from 0:23. It's like porridge


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> almost look like air pockets, but can't completely tell w/ the glare
> 
> 
> 
> Look video from 0:23. It's like porridge
Click to expand...

Its a nano fluid that mean any gaps like what you have will trap the nano parts. Its normal. Btw 3 videos with only complaints doesn't bode well for a user. looks like your just picking issues with stuff esp when there are no issues.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mick, I saw the new rads on your shop now. No pricing there yet, just says to contact you guys. I did that, haven't heard back in about 3 days or so. Just wondering how much the 480 would be- I am testing out a few different 480 and 560s in my hotbox to see what rads to put in my 3 loops going in the TX10 case.


erm i cannot say price until we've paid all duties and import taxes. sorry ive been giving you all info onj the fly which normally never happens from manufacturers.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> erm i cannot say price until we've paid all duties and import taxes. sorry ive been giving you all info onj the fly which normally never happens from manufacturers.


Fair enough, mate. If it is reasonable for me to get it from you guys, I may well do so. Next few weeks all set up ready to go for rad test, just need the blitz kits to arrive now.


----------



## Mayhem

geggeg you wont pay







we notice ppl who help out







(well i do anyway)


----------



## dgraham1284

For record. I'm using an alphacool read, ut60 240, and rx360. Been about a month now. Cleaned out both radiators distilled and vinegar. I haven't had coloring issues with the die.


----------



## dgraham1284

Stupid phone, dye. Rad*


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> geggeg you wont pay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> we notice ppl who help out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (well i do anyway)


I won't even pretend to jump to any conclusions here. Thanks for that comment, I got a ton of help here when I started out last year so paying back to the community is the least I can do


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its a nano fluid that mean any gaps like what you have will trap the nano parts. Its normal. Btw 3 videos with only complaints doesn't bode well for a user. looks like your just picking issues with stuff esp when there are no issues.


I've seen many bad reviews on pastel because of similar problems so I was concerned if it won't damage my loop but if you say so then I'm hoping this is the deal. Well yes, I'm picky and like to have everything working fine but that's my business.


----------



## Mayhem

there is no need to worry if there is a issue will "WILL" fix if come hell or high water. We've been pasteling now for over 5 years with no issues except those caused via other products but we will always find the problem and i will always find the best answer possible even if that means us re making the product from the ground up.


----------



## VSG

^ Just saw your gesture on OcUK for a similar thing with Pastel, +1 for that as I mentioned over there.


----------



## Wolfsbora

First, I'd like to state that the Mayhems Blitz stuff works like a charm. Definitely tricky getting it all out of a bay res/pump combo but I don't fault the Blitz for that. In fact, it took about 2 gallons to flush it completely out.

The next thing is that I'm hoping that I can get a bit of help regarding cloudiness that I am experiencing in my distilled with X1 - Clear. I had added it to the distilled and it looked great for the first day, then overnight it went cloudy and has been that way since. Any advice?

Pictures of it in my Corsair 550D:


----------



## DarthBaggins

My guess is that there was some remaining in your loop that was caught in a dead spot


----------



## Frontside

Hi, guys.
I need help mixing pastel coolant.
For my current project i want something that looks like aged brass or maybe like MDPC copper brown sleeve.
Any ideas how to achieve this?
Thanks in advance.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> My guess is that there was some remaining in your loop that was caught in a dead spot


I thought that was a possibility too but my distilled remained clear for a significant amount of time before adding the X1.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> Hi, guys.
> I need help mixing pastel coolant.
> For my current project i want something that looks like aged brass or maybe like MDPC copper brown sleeve.
> Any ideas how to achieve this?
> Thanks in advance.


It's unwise to mix pastel colors. Pastel is white, period. It gets it's color from dyes added into it from the factory, the same dyes you can get. If you mix pastel coolants with each other you can get... unwanted colours. If you start with a good base you can mix to get your exact colour. White, or perhaps yellow would be a good base. Cyphon can help more with mixing pastel colours, so I'll leave the rest to him. My advice is don't mix pastel colours, pick a base and use dyes.


----------



## Frontside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It's unwise to mix pastel colors. Pastel is white, period. It gets it's color from dyes added into it from the factory, the same dyes you can get. If you mix pastel coolants with each other you can get... unwanted colours. If you start with a good base you can mix to get your exact colour. White, or perhaps yellow would be a good base. Cyphon can help more with mixing pastel colours, so I'll leave the rest to him. My advice is don't mix pastel colours, pick a base and use dyes.


This exactly what i meant.
Which dyes should i use to get vivid brass/brown colour?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> This exactly what i meant.
> Which dyes should i use to get vivid brass/brown colour?


Cyphon, get in here!









Sorry, I'm better with transparent colours, Cyphon's the go to guy for pastel mixing. My guess would be yellow and red for the off orange, with the slightest hint of blue to darken it up. Again, a guess, I'm no expert with pastel. Pastel colours don't stack up quite the same as transparent coolants.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> This exactly what i meant.
> Which dyes should i use to get vivid brass/brown colour?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Cyphon, get in here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, I'm better with transparent colours, Cyphon's the go to guy for pastel mixing. My guess would be yellow and red for the off orange, with the slightest hint of blue to darken it up. Again, a guess, I'm no expert with pastel. Pastel colours don't stack up quite the same as transparent coolants.


Brown is the easiest color to 'accidentally' get lol. There a ton of different ways to get to it. Red + green, red + blue + yellow, purple + yellow really any 3 colors. To get a good looking brown is a different story, however.

Since you are wanting more of a go more yellow/golden brown, I think starting with the sunset yellow and then add in either red+blue or the purple dye to get it to darken towards a brown. Red+blue will give you more control! straight purple will be cheaper, lol. I like the extra control, so I'd recommend blue and red.

I'd get the sunset yellow and take a couple oz of it (shot glass) and get a dye ratio to the color you want. Then mix the rest of the batch using the ratio as a guideline


----------



## Anateus

Guys, help me please!
I need to get some water for my loop, but the only place I can get DISTILLED from is the internet or one merchants that lives quite far away.
Can I use demineralised? Or it will be not good for my loop? I will be adding UV Blue or Ocean Blue dyes and your Biocide Extreme. No aluminium in the setup.


----------



## vilius572

Someone deleted my posts. That's so nice from you


----------



## Mayhem

what post. ?

@Anateus deionised water would be better .


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> what post. ?
> 
> @Anateus deionised water would be better .


Nevermind


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> what post. ?
> 
> @Anateus deionised water would be better .


Why would it be better?


----------



## Mayhem

http://www.distilleddeionizedwater.com/deionized-water-vs-distilled-water/

Have a read of that it will help you understand.


----------



## Wolfsbora

@Mayhem, do you have a suggestion as to why my distilled went cloudy after adding X1 Clear? I had used Blitz through the system and then flushed and drained it over and over again (using 2 gallons) to ensure that all of it was removed from the system before adding the distilled. Once the distilled was added it ran for quite a few hours before adding the X1 just to make sure that I got all of the Blitz out and that no foamy bubbles were present. The distilled remained clear. Then I added the X1 Clear to the system and everything appeared fine until the next day when the distilled+X1 became cloudy and has been that way since. Thanks in advance!


----------



## greggus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> @Mayhem, do you have a suggestion as to why my distilled went cloudy after adding X1 Clear? I had used Blitz through the system and then flushed and drained it over and over again (using 2 gallons) to ensure that all of it was removed from the system before adding the distilled. Once the distilled was added it ran for quite a few hours before adding the X1 just to make sure that I got all of the Blitz out and that no foamy bubbles were present. The distilled remained clear. Then I added the X1 Clear to the system and everything appeared fine until the next day when the distilled+X1 became cloudy and has been that way since. Thanks in advance!


Just in case, do you have an alphacool or phobya rad ? purchase this year ?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greggus*
> 
> Just in case, do you have an alphacool or phobya rad ? purchase this year ?


3 Alphacools purchased this year. All cleaned with the Blitz Part 1 kit.


----------



## DarthBaggins

As I mentioned previously, you probably still had some caught in a dead spot in your loop.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> As I mentioned previously, you probably still had some caught in a dead spot in your loop.


I would have thought that after hours of running the distilled through the system that it would have become cloudy even before adding the X1.


----------



## Anateus

I have copper blocks and copper/brass rads. I will probably go with demineralised (deionised) water. I will be adding Mayhems Dye and a Biocide Extreme. Should I add any kind of inhibitor for the corrosion? Or is that Biocide enough?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Probably reacted with the x1


----------



## pmac

There's a few/several thousand posts, so a quick question. I really love the look of the Liquid Metal. Do you mix these, or can you buy them outright, or are they even still available? (I saw a video on YouTube that was linked after how to make Pastel Blood red, this is where I saw the liquid metal colours)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> There's a few/several thousand posts, so a quick question. I really love the look of the Liquid Metal. Do you mix these, or can you buy them outright, or are they even still available? (I saw a video on YouTube that was linked after how to make Pastel Blood red, this is where I saw the liquid metal colours)


Haven't seen anything on liquid metal in quite some time, unfortunately. I'm not sure if they are still developing it or if the project got dropped.

Closest thing I've seen was a recent post from Mayhem that had a mix of pastel and aurora. Not quite the same, but had a bit of a different look than just the aurora


----------



## pmac

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_1073&products_id=40719
Found this site and the Aurora 2 coolant colours. I will have a closer look at those the gold really interests me. Does anyone know id they have issues with UV LED's? I'm not exactly sure what issues some liquids have or what it means to be UV reactive, so I am curious.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_1073&products_id=40719
> Found this site and the Aurora 2 coolant colours. I will have a closer look at those the gold really interests me. Does anyone know id they have issues with UV LED's? I'm not exactly sure what issues some liquids have or what it means to be UV reactive, so I am curious.


Friends don't let friends buy from PPC


----------



## goodtobeking

Ive bought from PPC many times and never had any major issues. Twice they sent me the wrong item, out of at least 10 orders, and both times I got to keep the wrong item and they shipped the correct one out free. One time just happened to be when I ordered my Mayhems clear/UV blue dye, so I got two different size bottles


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_381_1071_1073&products_id=40719
> Found this site and the Aurora 2 coolant colours. I will have a closer look at those the gold really interests me. Does anyone know id they have issues with UV LED's? I'm not exactly sure what issues some liquids have or what it means to be UV reactive, so I am curious.


Won't really hurt em, however, you will not get a UV effect, nor will you get the Aurora effect. UV effects absorb light and there is a reaction that gives off the glowy light. Aurora is the opposite...it works by reflecting light. You want a really well lit case to really get the full aurora effect. Typically UV builds are quite dark other than the purple glow from the lights and the reactive materials.

Please also keep in mind that Aurora requires you to build your loop a certain way and is still considered to be a short term fluid. If you do not build correctly, it will lose effects due to the particles getting stuck in dead zones and crevices.


----------



## dgraham1284

Frozencpu.com

Thank us later


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Frozencpu.com is fine but ppcs does sales and they are just generally cheaper


----------



## pmac

oh. OK is there something I do not know about? Maybe send me a PM so I know what you refer to?


----------



## ozzy1925

guys ,do you think 1 bottle of blitz part 1 is enough to clean 2xut60 480mm +1x ut 60 240mm?


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Frozencpu.com is fine but ppcs does sales and they are just generally cheaper


Yeah that's the only reason I tend to shop there, prices seem to always be cheaper.


----------



## greggus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> 3 Alphacools purchased this year. All cleaned with the Blitz Part 1 kit.


I have 4 alphacools. 2 from last year, 2 from this year. Those from last year don't have any problems (X1 clear becoming cloudy). I use Blitz part 1 & 2 on those.

The 2 others (from this year) can't be used at all. I used Blitz part 1 & 2 but everytime i use X1 it became cloudy again. When you looked at the holes (inside the alphacool) you will see some white paste. Perhaps after a certain time this "paste" will disapear ... as for me i will not use alphacool again.

I think alphacool change the way they make their rads this year


----------



## natsu2014

Any tips how to make pastel orange darker? From what I've seen the colour of fluid will not match colour of the board


----------



## McMogg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Any tips how to make pastel orange darker? From what I've seen the colour of fluid will not match colour of the board


Assuming you mean the Gigabyte boards - the Pastel colour is Gigabyte Orange.. I think it's _made_ to match.

None the less, I'd guess Red to darken orange


----------



## cyphon

First, enough of the PPCs vs fcpu vs whoever else. Not relevant to this thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Any tips how to make pastel orange darker? From what I've seen the colour of fluid will not match colour of the board


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McMogg*
> 
> Assuming you mean the Gigabyte boards - the Pastel colour is Gigabyte Orange.. I think it's _made_ to match.
> 
> None the less, I'd guess Red to darken orange


Pastel orange is pretty freakin close if not exact match to gigabyte orange. lighting is always a factor with colors, however, so if someone didn't have lighting right, it may not look exact.

If you did want to darken it, you are right that you can put a little red/deep red into it. I did just a touch to get it a shade or two darker with my crowbar build - in sig.


----------



## _REAPER_

I have changed out my PSU and put in new cables in I think it goes better with my build


----------



## SuprUsrStan

What's the difference between deep blue and ultra blue in terms of color? Ultra blue isn't out yet in stores, can deep blue reach the same color as the 4 drop ultra blue, just with more drops?

What's the fundamental difference for the new one?

EDIT: Is the "Dark Blue" the same as "Deep Blue"? Retailers no longer carry the deep blue and only the dark blue. If they're not the same, when can we expect ultra blue to hit retailers in the states?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's the difference between deep blue and ultra blue in terms of color? Ultra blue isn't out yet in stores, can deep blue reach the same color as the 4 drop ultra blue, just with more drops?
> 
> What's the fundamental difference for the new one?
> 
> EDIT: Is the "Dark Blue" the same as "Deep Blue"? Retailers no longer carry the deep blue and only the dark blue. If they're not the same, when can we expect ultra blue to hit retailers in the states?


I wonder if that dye compatible with Dazmode Protector: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_protector/

I know the current dye will fade and discolour (bleached out) by the Dazmode Protector.

HERE: http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/water-cooling/57617-mayhem-dye-fesser-cooling-fluid-dazmode-protector.html#post667571


----------



## pmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgraham1284*
> 
> Frozencpu.com
> 
> Thank us later


I have used them a few times, but the other place carries a larger selection of these fluids.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> First, enough of the PPCs vs fcpu vs whoever else. Not relevant to this thread.


They are mayhems retailers so actually it is relevant.

Anyways its not your place to say that it's not

Performancepcs.com seems to have more mayhems in stock in general at the moment.9


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> @Mayhem, do you have a suggestion as to why my distilled went cloudy after adding X1 Clear? I had used Blitz through the system and then flushed and drained it over and over again (using 2 gallons) to ensure that all of it was removed from the system before adding the distilled. Once the distilled was added it ran for quite a few hours before adding the X1 just to make sure that I got all of the Blitz out and that no foamy bubbles were present. The distilled remained clear. Then I added the X1 Clear to the system and everything appeared fine until the next day when the distilled+X1 became cloudy and has been that way since. Thanks in advance!


What flowrates are you getting? Could be some deadspot was holding some particles or something during your flush.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I have copper blocks and copper/brass rads. I will probably go with demineralised (deionised) water. I will be adding Mayhems Dye and a Biocide Extreme. Should I add any kind of inhibitor for the corrosion? Or is that Biocide enough?


Most types of corrosion inhibitors will react with Biocide Extreme, Biocide extreme is CuSo4 (i.e. copper sulphate) Most corrosion inhibitors are ethylene glycol. EG and CuSo4 turn into the infamous gunk. Also, CuSo4 will eat away UV effects, so don't plan on using UV dyes. If you want a coolant that works with UV dyes I'd say X1, it'll have corrosion inhibitors as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> There's a few/several thousand posts, so a quick question. I really love the look of the Liquid Metal. Do you mix these, or can you buy them outright, or are they even still available? (I saw a video on YouTube that was linked after how to make Pastel Blood red, this is where I saw the liquid metal colours)


Not sure what you mean by liquid metal, Mick did a mix of Pastel and Aurora 2 to make a liquid metal-ish coolant. That would be your best bet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys ,do you think 1 bottle of blitz part 1 is enough to clean 2xut60 480mm +1x ut 60 240mm?


Nope
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> They are mayhems retailers so actually it is relevant.
> 
> Anyways its not your place to say that it's not
> 
> Performancepcs.com seems to have more mayhems in stock in general at the moment.9


PPCs is Mayhems official retailer in North 'Murica. Discussing retailer resellers is highly irrelevant. This is a Mayhems Support thread. Arguing retailers has nothing to do remedying issues with coolant. To anyone wanting to argue retailers, take it to another thread. Please and thank you.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Most types of corrosion inhibitors will react with Biocide Extreme, Biocide extreme is CuSo4 (i.e. copper sulphate) Most corrosion inhibitors are ethylene glycol. EG and CuSo4 turn into the infamous gunk. Also, CuSo4 will eat away UV effects, so don't plan on using UV dyes. If you want a coolant that works with UV dyes I'd say X1, it'll have corrosion inhibitors as well.


Very well, I will stick with the Ocean blue. I have UV tubing anyway, bought that UV dye for future use








So if I want to use Mayhems Biocide, am I supposed to do something about corrosion? Or it wont happen?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Very well, I will stick with the Ocean blue. I have UV tubing anyway, bought that UV dye for future use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if I want to use Mayhems Biocide, am I supposed to do something about corrosion? Or it wont happen?


Use the pH test strips and don't let the pH drop too low and you should be fine with Biocide Extreme. CuSo4 will actually increase corrosion chance IF you add too much. Low pH accelerates corrosion. That's why they give you those strips and explain what pH levels to reach. Stick to it's guides and it won't be any worse than normal distilled. Corrosion can never be stopped, only slowed. This is what corrosion inhibitors do, slow corrosion. OMHO I wouldn't use CuSo4 with nickle, if you have it in your loop. Hope all that helps.


----------



## pmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Not sure what you mean by liquid metal, Mick did a mix of Pastel and Aurora 2 to make a liquid metal-ish coolant. That would be your best bet.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*


A while back mick was talking about how they were developing coloured nano particles. My guess would be it's a mix of those and Aurora; the coolant with the coloured nano particles isn't available as of yet. 'Not a Mayhems employee and even if I was I don't think they'd be throwing information out on when that will be available. What colour specifically are you trying to achieve, you may be able to get something similar with Micks new A2/pastel mix, assuming your loop will keep the A2 in suspension.


----------



## pmac

At 3:14 in the video is something that would slightly match my system colours, I have primarily red/blue system colours. A nice dark red would be cool too. But first and foremost cooling and not gunking up my parts comes first. I apparently made a mistake buying Koolance Black compression fittings I have seen some of the examples of what they look like after a while in the setups, so when I take the unit apart next weekend maybe I will look into buying some chrome ones from a Canadian retailer if there is one that has the right size in stock. But then the choice of what coolant to use??? Blue/red either or, I do not have a UV light in my system, but I am installing LED's into the reservoir next weekend and adding a pump for future proofing the setup.

On a side note, since my cooling system has been running for a while now (a month or 6 weeks) how or what is recommended to flush the system? My tubes have like a white film on them so I am going to replace them already, and would like a good system flush prior to adding the coolant again, but my reservoir doesn't have any build up on the front plexi that is crystal clear.


----------



## Tunz

I'm having an issue with my Aurora Tharsis. It appears to be getting darker, almost a reddish brown. I just finished the build a few days ago. Rads were thoroughly flushed before use. I'm using copper EK blocks, alphacool rads, and petg tubing. I've already drained the loop and refilled it with new coolant, same thing is happening. Any ideas what could be causing this?

Oh, it's premixed btw.


----------



## DeXel

You need to use Blitz kit on Alphacool rads. Normal flash won't help.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> You need to use Blitz kit on Alphacool rads. Normal flash won't help.


Ok thanks. I'll have frozencpu add it to my existing order. Rep+ added.


----------



## DeXel

Makes sure to get Pro kit because basic one only includes part 2 and you need part 1.


----------



## Tunz

Will do.


----------



## Mayhem

We stopped deving work on LM (liquid metal) due to some issues we had. I may come back to it another time.

As for Daz Mod liquid protect check out there MSDS sheets and see what's in them. They should be able to provide you with them if not then they should be selling them. BTW its a feser liquid so change are high its a EG liquid.


----------



## vilius572

What tubing you guys recommend to use with pastel sunset yellow?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> What tubing you guys recommend to use with pastel sunset yellow?


Primochill Advanced LRT in clear if you want to go with soft tubing and want the color to come through. Any standard acrylic for hardline tubing.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT in clear if you want to go with soft tubing and want the color to come through. Any standard acrylic for hardline tubing.


Is it good? My loop got plasticizer problem I guess. White gunk is everywhere in the tubing when pc stays off for a few hours. When I turn it on I can see it moves and it's gone but same thing happens over and over again.


----------



## VSG

This is one of the very few plasticizer free soft tubing options out there.


----------



## Att1cus

Hey everyone - i posted this question over in watercooling, but got a tip to bring it over here too. Just got me 2 pre-mixed liters of the mayhems pastel green, looking to make it at least a bit UV active without changing the color of the coolant itself.


----------



## Mayhem

Add UV Yellow Green or UV Laser to it. It will already be a little UV active out of the bottle.

Mick


----------



## Att1cus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Add UV Yellow Green or UV Laser to it. It will already be a little UV active out of the bottle.
> 
> Mick


Thanks dude! I think i like the look of the laser


----------



## Mayhem

Try it before buying any extra dye you might be quite surprised







. It better than wasting money


----------



## Ovrclck

Question..Are the dyes supposed to fade over time? I've added 12 drops of purple less than 2 months ago and my loop is almost clear. Is this normal for a new build? I'm using X1 clear with Alphacool rads. Does this mean my pH balance is out of wack?


----------



## devilhead

have a question: have a watercooled pc 240+360+pump+2x blocks(gpu/cpu), used 1 litre of aurora 2 silver, after 3 days aurora 2 effect is gone, and now i'm to lazy to clean the system(gpu/cpu temperatures is perfect) , so now i have just transparent liquid in my system, so my question, can i remove 250ml of liquid and just add 250ml of mayhems pastel yellow concentrate? it will not cause any reaction?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Is it good? My loop got plasticizer problem I guess. White gunk is everywhere in the tubing when pc stays off for a few hours. When I turn it on I can see it moves and it's gone but same thing happens over and over again.


Advanced LRT is what you want to aim for. You're also going to need to take a toothbrush to most of your loop to clean all that crap out now. Plasticizers are a nasty thing, they truly are. Adv LRT does have plasticizers, most all soft tubing has too or else it wouldn't be flexible. It does, however, lack a specific type of plasticizers that most of the other soft tubing has, and I've yet to see Adv LRT have issues with it leaching plasticizers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Question.*.Are the dyes supposed to fade over time?* I've added 12 drops of purple less than 2 months ago and my loop is almost clear. Is this normal for a new build? I'm using X1 clear with Alphacool rads. Does this mean my pH balance is out of wack?


*Yes*

Not that fast though

Did you clear your radiators thoroughly prior to filling, did you have any other additives in the loop other than X1 and the dye, and did you check the pH yet? Get back to me on that.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> *Yes*
> 
> Not that fast though
> 
> Did you clear your radiators thoroughly prior to filling, did you have any other additives in the loop other than X1 and the dye, and did you check the pH yet? Get back to me on that.


Yes, I rinsed out my monsta's really good. Brand new rads,mosfet block,cpu block. The only thing that was re-used were the two EK 780 blocks. I haven't checked my pH levels just yet. I'm going to buy the Blitz pro cleaning anyways for my brother since he never bothered to rinse his Alphacool rads lol. I'll just borrow his meter


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> have a question: have a watercooled pc 240+360+pump+2x blocks(gpu/cpu), used 1 litre of aurora 2 silver, after 3 days aurora 2 effect is gone, and now i'm to lazy to clean the system(gpu/cpu temperatures is perfect) , so now i have just transparent liquid in my system, so my question, can i remove 250ml of liquid and just add 250ml of mayhems pastel yellow concentrate? it will not cause any reaction?


A2s liquid base is based on Pastels liquid base, so there should be no reaction. I can almost guarantee you're going to get some undesirable side effects to visuals of mixing as such though, but that's your prerogative. Should be no chem reactions between the two. If you want to clean it out first draining it, then using Blitz part 2 should pull must particles back into suspension.


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> A2s liquid base is based on Pastels liquid base, so there should be no reaction. I can almost guarantee you're going to get some undesirable side effects to visuals of mixing as such though, but that's your prerogative. Should be no chem reactions between the two. If you want to clean it out first draining it, then using Blitz part 2 should pull must particles back into suspension.


ahh... those particles doesn't affect my cpu/gpu temperature, so is no point to use blitz 2 part







i will just fill those EK pastel yellow 250ml (like i know it is same as mayhems pastel yellow) and will see how it goes


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> ahh... those particles doesn't affect my cpu/gpu temperature, so is no point to use blitz 2 part
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i will just fill those EK pastel yellow 250ml (like i know it is same as mayhems pastel yellow) and will see how it goes


Oh, one more thing. A2's surfactant will only last about a year before it breaks down. Jury rigging the coolant like that will make you need to change after a year, instead of... well 3


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> have a question: have a watercooled pc 240+360+pump+2x blocks(gpu/cpu), used 1 litre of aurora 2 silver, after 3 days aurora 2 effect is gone, and now i'm to lazy to clean the system(gpu/cpu temperatures is perfect) , so now i have just transparent liquid in my system, so my question, can i remove 250ml of liquid and just add 250ml of mayhems pastel yellow concentrate? it will not cause any reaction?


I had a similar problem with my Aurora and removing the jet plate from the cpu block brought the aurora back to life. My loop is pretty simple though so there may be other issues with yours, just a quick thing to try if you wanted to keep the aurora.


----------



## cyphon

@Mayhem, don't think that I ever saw the answer, so sorry if it was previously answered. What was the ratio for a2astel that you did on the mix you put up recently.

It's about time to replace my current aurora in my system with a2. I also have a bunch of pastel white so I may give that a try









**Don't mind being a guinea pig either


----------



## sadeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> @Mayhem, don't think that I ever saw the answer, so sorry if it was previously answered. What was the ratio for a2astel that you did on the mix you put up recently.
> 
> It's about time to replace my current aurora in my system with a2. I also have a bunch of pastel white so I may give that a try
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **Don't mind being a guinea pig either


I am curious about this as well, as this is what I want to do with pastel white and A2 Supernova. I would appreciate if the guinea pig would post pics as well.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This is one of the very few plasticizer free soft tubing options out there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT in clear if you want to go with soft tubing and want the color to come through. Any standard acrylic for hardline tubing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Advanced LRT is what you want to aim for. You're also going to need to take a toothbrush to most of your loop to clean all that crap out now. Plasticizers are a nasty thing, they truly are. Adv LRT does have plasticizers, most all soft tubing has too or else it wouldn't be flexible. It does, however, lack a specific type of plasticizers that most of the other soft tubing has, and I've yet to see Adv LRT have issues with it leaching plasticizers.
> *Yes*
> 
> Not that fast though
> 
> Did you clear your radiators thoroughly prior to filling, did you have any other additives in the loop other than X1 and the dye, and did you check the pH yet? Get back to me on that.


Just ordered 2 meters of PrimoChill Advanced LRT clear. Hope this gonna solve my problem.


----------



## Nichismo

This build was my first time using Mayhems, and boy do I love it...

I bought two bottles, each of Pre mixed Pastel, Red and White for each loop


----------



## Mayhem

The Pastel mix with A2. I used A2 Booster with Pastel. A2 booster is a basically something i've been working on and we've been sending out to people who have issues where they are not getting enough effect. The booster dramatically increases the amount of nano aurora and surfactant in a system.

We don't know if we will release it as a full product yet though due to the amount of time it takes to make it in this concentration.


----------



## Mayhem

@Miguel Ezequiel LaRocca Please contact me as you Parcel has been returned from customs (XT1) saying you didn't pick it up.

Mick


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The Pastel mix with A2. I used A2 Booster with Pastel. A2 booster is a basically something i've been working on and we've been sending out to people who have issues where they are not getting enough effect. The booster dramatically increases the amount of nano aurora and surfactant in a system.
> 
> We don't know if we will release it as a full product yet though due to the amount of time it takes to make it in this concentration.


That's pretty cool idea (the booster). You think the mix effect be unachievable without the booster? I was going to guess something like 3 or 4 parts a2 to 1 part pastel would get you sort of there.

Again, I will in no way hold it against you guys if it doesn't pan out. It is going in my small system that I could clean out pretty quickly if need be.


----------



## Mayhem

Give me a PM next week and ill help you out just to much on this week.


----------



## devilhead

So have mixed my aurora 2 silver + EK pastel yellow







i'm happy, just of course it can me more particles in loop (and my bird make some sound in background)







))
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j63DK0dROzo&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYAqSE9EJe0&feature=youtu.be


----------



## pmac

Hi all. I am going to order some of mayhems pastel, still trying to figure out the colour (leaning towards Deep red of some sort), but I want something UV reactive. My question is (because I don't know what would be good quality for these) what type of bulb would you recommend. Direct retailer links would be fine, if you are allowed to post them. If not you can feel free to PM me toe direct links to your preferred bulbs. I have a big case 900D so size of bulb shouldn't matter much on the large size at least, too small may be an issue though. The only real thing I have seen is a video on 360 bulb vs LED, and 360 bulb gives off far more light than straight LED.


----------



## lowfat




----------



## DarthBaggins




----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Give me a PM next week and ill help you out just to much on this week.


Awesome, will do








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> Hi all. I am going to order some of mayhems pastel, still trying to figure out the colour (leaning towards Deep red of some sort), but I want something UV reactive. My question is (because I don't know what would be good quality for these) what type of bulb would you recommend. Direct retailer links would be fine, if you are allowed to post them. If not you can feel free to PM me toe direct links to your preferred bulbs. I have a big case 900D so size of bulb shouldn't matter much on the large size at least, too small may be an issue though. The only real thing I have seen is a video on 360 bulb vs LED, and 360 bulb gives off far more light than straight LED.


for pastel red, you'll need a lot of UV pink dye to make it UV reactive. Don't buy the LEDs, the cold cathodes are pretty good
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*


sick as always....really wish i had half your photo skills


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

im going to be flushing out my system this weekend and replacing the coolant that was in there, and hopefully get it all out in one go.

my system previously had mayhems mint green pastel in it, which i changed out for EKoolant blood red when i got my new block and redid my acrylic. i flushed the system that time using primochill sysprep, and it seemed like it really didnt do much lol.

this time i bought the mayhems basic blitz kit. i know how bad red coolants can be, and how hard they can be to get out of a system, but have any of you guys used the kit after running blood red in it for a year? what can i expect? i have a 360 and a 240 in my system, hopefully it gets them decently cleaned. the kit seems pretty straight forward, and i watched all the youtube videos i could find on it.

i got mayhems uv clear/blue, uv clear/blue dye, and some darkside LED strips to light it up. any suggestions or pointers to using the kit would be appreciated. as always, love your stuff mayhem.

also, OCN frozencpu code still works..


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> sick as always....really wish i had half your photo skills


Was about to say i want his camera and photo skills lol


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> im going to be flushing out my system this weekend and replacing the coolant that was in there, and hopefully get it all out in one go.
> 
> my system previously had mayhems mint green pastel in it, which i changed out for EKoolant blood red when i got my new block and redid my acrylic. i flushed the system that time using primochill sysprep, and it seemed like it really didnt do much lol.
> 
> this time i bought the mayhems basic blitz kit. i know how bad red coolants can be, and how hard they can be to get out of a system, but have any of you guys used the kit after running blood red in it for a year? what can i expect? i have a 360 and a 240 in my system, hopefully it gets them decently cleaned. the kit seems pretty straight forward, and i watched all the youtube videos i could find on it.
> 
> i got mayhems uv clear/blue, uv clear/blue dye, and some darkside LED strips to light it up. any suggestions or pointers to using the kit would be appreciated. as always, love your stuff mayhem.
> 
> also, OCN frozencpu code still works..


Sysprep is literally a placebo...does pretty much nothing, lol.

You may have some staining from the red...hard to tell without actually looking at it as it could be minimal or it could be significant.

You are on the right track as far as cleaning and refilling goes. I'd give it a couple solid flushes with just water to help get out leftover dye from the loop and make sure that it is staying pretty much clear. Then I'd get the blitz going and get ready to fill with the new stuff


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Sysprep is literally a placebo...does pretty much nothing, lol.
> 
> You may have some staining from the red...hard to tell without actually looking at it as it could be minimal or it could be significant.
> 
> You are on the right track as far as cleaning and refilling goes. I'd give it a couple solid flushes with just water to help get out leftover dye from the loop and make sure that it is staying pretty much clear. Then I'd get the blitz going and get ready to fill with the new stuff


well that explains why i felt like it did nothing then lol.

i had a whole bunch of them laying around so i thought id give em a try.

ill post some before and afters when im done.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The Pastel mix with A2. I used A2 Booster with Pastel. A2 booster is a basically something i've been working on and we've been sending out to people who have issues where they are not getting enough effect. The booster dramatically increases the amount of nano aurora and surfactant in a system.
> 
> We don't know if we will release it as a full product yet though due to the amount of time it takes to make it in this concentration.


Given the rather large amount of people who want to use aurora, and notably high amount of people who go different routes due to the... err, potential complications, I'd imagine an Aurora booster would sell very well assuming it sufficiently increases aurora life span up to it's max recommended life span.
-Z


----------



## _REAPER_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The Pastel mix with A2. I used A2 Booster with Pastel. A2 booster is a basically something i've been working on and we've been sending out to people who have issues where they are not getting enough effect. The booster dramatically increases the amount of nano aurora and surfactant in a system.
> 
> We don't know if we will release it as a full product yet though due to the amount of time it takes to make it in this concentration.
> 
> 
> 
> Given the rather large amount of people who want to use aurora, and notably high amount of people who go different routes due to the... err, potential complications, I'd imagine an Aurora booster would sell very well assuming it sufficiently increases aurora life span up to it's max recommended life span.
> -Z
Click to expand...

I dont think it would work well in my system but I am still interested for my brother in law his loops is not as complicated as mine


----------



## greggus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> well that explains why i felt like it did nothing then lol.
> 
> i had a whole bunch of them laying around so i thought id give em a try.
> 
> ill post some before and afters when im done.


I was in the same boat as you are and i can tell you blitz part 2 will not be enough to clean EK red coolant. I used Blitz part 1 for the rad and it did the job perfectly. For the blocks i think you must clean them with a toothbrush or something else.
In the end, Blitz part 2 will clean your loop but it will not be enough to clean the rad.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

ok thanks for the info. i was kinda worried that it wouldnt be enough, but i really wanted to avoid having to take apart my whole pc to clean it out.

since i already have the kit coming on friday, ill try it out, and if its not enough, ill get the pro kit and do it over. thanks!


----------



## Nichismo

EK clean Plexi + Mayhems Pastel + nickel = WIN


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> EK clean Plexi + Mayhems Pastel + nickel = WIN


Looks like a strawberry milkshake mixer from some kind of 80s sci-fi movie. Looks great!

-Z


----------



## _REAPER_

Finished my build now just waiting on some new RADs =)


----------



## chronokairo

guys, question. (new to LC)
i was planning to use mayhem green pastel, my tube is primochil advance lrt. is there still an issue with mayhem and primochill tubings? thanks a lot.
have a great mixing everyone.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Need some help getting Mayhem's Pastel White to be a Periwinkle (purplish) color. I am changing one of my system builds in support of someone I know that has a serious heart problem and their support color is Periwinkle. So, thought I would make my system like that with the coolant and send them some pictures of it when done. I want to use the Mayhem's Dye, but not sure what to mix or how many drops to get this type of color.

Thanks for any help.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronokairo*
> 
> guys, question. (new to LC)
> i was planning to use mayhem green pastel, my tube is primochil advance lrt. is there still an issue with mayhem and primochill tubings? thanks a lot.
> have a great mixing everyone.


Primochill Advanced LRT is currently the recommended tubing for Mayhems coolants.
-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> Need some help getting Mayhem's Pastel White to be a Periwinkle (purplish) color. I am changing one of my system builds in support of someone I know that has a serious heart problem and their support color is Periwinkle. So, thought I would make my system like that with the coolant and send them some pictures of it when done. I want to use the Mayhem's Dye, but not sure what to mix or how many drops to get this type of color.
> 
> Thanks for any help.


Assuming you mean along this colour line: 

Just this should do:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17673/ex-liq-263/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Blue_.html

VERY slowly add it. It may be a bit less dull and a bit more vibrant, but non the less as long as the blue is diluted enough it should be very close.
-Z


----------



## chronokairo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT is currently the recommended tubing for Mayhems coolants.
> -Z
> Assuming you mean along this colour line:
> 
> Just this should do:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17673/ex-liq-263/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Blue_.html
> 
> VERY slowly add it. It may be a bit less dull and a bit more vibrant, but non the less as long as the blue is diluted enough it should be very close.
> -Z


thanks Z.







so now, all i need to do is wait for my mayhems to be delivered.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT is currently the recommended tubing for Mayhems coolants.
> -Z
> Assuming you mean along this colour line:
> 
> Just this should do:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17673/ex-liq-263/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Blue_.html
> 
> VERY slowly add it. It may be a bit less dull and a bit more vibrant, but non the less as long as the blue is diluted enough it should be very close.
> -Z


Thanks for the info. That color you posted is correct.

Are you sure about that dye color? The reason I ask is that adding that to the Mayhem's Pastel White seems like it would be more a shade of blue than purple and that a purple dye or purple dye with the blue would be closer?

Just wasn't sure, so any tips on mixing the dye or dyes would be nice if other than already posted. Thanks.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> Thanks for the info. That color you posted is correct.
> 
> Are you sure about that dye color? The reason I ask is that adding that to the Mayhem's Pastel White seems like it would be more a shade of blue than purple and that a purple dye or purple dye with the blue would be closer?
> 
> Just wasn't sure, so any tips on mixing the dye or dyes would be nice if other than already posted. Thanks.


I mean you can wait for cyphon to comment, he's more adept with dying pastel. To me the purple dye seems like it might give you a darker more vibrant colour than you're trying to achieve, but then again I'm better with X1 than pastel so they may mix differently.

-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> Thanks for the info. That color you posted is correct.
> 
> Are you sure about that dye color? The reason I ask is that adding that to the Mayhem's Pastel White seems like it would be more a shade of blue than purple and that a purple dye or purple dye with the blue would be closer?
> 
> Just wasn't sure, so any tips on mixing the dye or dyes would be nice if other than already posted. Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I mean you can wait for cyphon to comment, he's more adept with dying pastel. To me the purple dye seems like it might give you a darker more vibrant colour than you're trying to achieve, but then again I'm better with X1 than pastel so they may mix differently.
> 
> -Z


That's one may be tough because it is so light. I agree that purple dye will probably be too bold and not blue enough. You could add just a touch of red to the blue as well, but you definitely don't want too much as it definitely looks more to the blue side of things.

Something I have not tried before, that you could experiment with, is dying some white to a couple shades darker, then add more white to unintensify the color. If you were testing this, I'd work with shot glasses


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That's one may be tough because it is so light. I agree that purple dye will probably be too bold and not blue enough. You could add just a touch of red to the blue as well, but you definitely don't want too much as it definitely looks more to the blue side of things.
> 
> Something I have not tried before, that you could experiment with, is dying some white to a couple shades darker, then add more white to unintensify the color. If you were testing this, I'd work with shot glasses


Speaking of shots, hows that colour wheel of legends coming?



-Z


----------



## cyphon

Lol, yeah, gotta get to it. I really need to finish my WIP (and get ya real benchmarks this time







). After that I will start it prly


----------



## Mayhem

A Warning

Mayhems does not support the usage of cillit bang neither does Reckitt Benckiser (the people that make it). If a user uses this before using any of our coolants you will screw up the coolant and your hardware. Just because someone a forum told you to do has nothing to do with us. This stuff damages you copper and brass and also leaves long term trace elements layered on you hardware. Any one contacting us with issue pertaining to use such cleaners will be direct back to Reckitt Benckiser.









Mick


----------



## VSG

I had to look it up on Google so I think I am fine here lol. Not sure why anyone thought that was a good idea!


----------



## HiTekJeff

Can someone tell me the difference between the Mayhem's "Basic Cleaning System" and the "Pro"? I wasn't sure which one to get as I will be flushing and adding some new parts to my loop.

Thanks for any info.


----------



## DeXel

Pro has part 1 and electronic pH test.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I had to look it up on Google so I think I am fine here lol. Not sure why anyone thought that was a good idea!


I'm in this boat too...

Seemed like a bad idea from the start lol


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> Can someone tell me the difference between the Mayhem's "Basic Cleaning System" and the "Pro"? I wasn't sure which one to get as I will be flushing and adding some new parts to my loop.
> 
> Thanks for any info.


Depending on your radiators, and if they were new or used you may want to invest in the Blitz Pro. It has an acid wash for radiators only that cleans up excess solder flux and also helps if the previous user didn't maintain the loop well. Blitz Basic just has Part 2 which is a general loop cleaning solution and pH neutralizer (also present in Blitz Pro). As mentioned above, the other difference is that the Blitz Pro comes with a pH meter and calibration kit while Blitz Basic has pH test paper strips- plenty enough for this application in my opinion anyway.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> Can someone tell me the difference between the Mayhem's "Basic Cleaning System" and the "Pro"? I wasn't sure which one to get as I will be flushing and adding some new parts to my loop.
> 
> Thanks for any info.


Phosphoric acid, gear to handle the phosphoric acid, an electric pH test meter, and some measuring cups and stuff.

The pro kit is primarily to clean radiators out, as flux can mess up certain coolants. Part two, on it's own, is primarily to remove particle buildup and the such from your loop and to neutralize the pH. Part one on it's own is a big nope, alsoways use it in conjunction with part 2. Combined they remove flux from the surface of the solder joints within the radiators, clean out the inside of the rads, brings any particles in the entire loop into suspension, clean the loop out, and bring any residual coolant in there to true neutral pH.

Hope that helps.

-Z


----------



## VSG

Gloves, glasses and measuring cups are in both kits.


----------



## Mayhem

Or watch the videos


----------



## cyphon

Possible that Blitz Part 1 ate a small whole at the joint of one of the tubes and the tank in a rad? I just discovered I have a pin sized hole in that area and I'm trying to figure out where it came from. Bought it new, haven't used it yet, so it was either Blitz or manufacturing didn't get the joint soldered right. Not sure what else it'd be


----------



## Mayhem

It wont eat away enough copper in the small amount of time its should be left in and its not strong enough to do any damage. You may find its dissolved access flux and if that was covering a hole then its entirely possible it got though qc controllers. The acid used in the Part one is the same acid used in normal rad cleaning process around the world but a little weaker







.


----------



## Mr Brothers

First.
Great instruction, but what about PH tester. Can't say I saw anything in particular about the PH tester
I think you should make an instructional video on what and how to use it.
There are certainly some who are unsure about it

second
I have 2 EK XTX 480 rads That have been used before but I'm not sure If they are clean. it is recommended to use Blitz part 1 on them?
there is so much back and forth about this.


----------



## VSG

If they are anything like the EK PE radiator I just got from them, then Part 1 won't be necessary. But I can't guarantee they are both manufactured in the same place so that's there.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Brothers*
> 
> First.
> Great instruction, but what about PH tester. Can't say I saw anything in particular about the PH tester
> I think you should make an instructional video on what and how to use it.
> There are certainly some who are unsure about it
> 
> second
> I have 2 EK XTX 480 rads That have been used before but I'm not sure If they are clean. it is recommended to use Blitz part 1 on them?
> there is so much back and forth about this.


As a general rule of thumb if you're using pastel or red dye/coolant it's always a good idea to blitz. It's a one time expense, will keep your coolants running properly, will keep debris and contaminants put of your loop, and make the rad core shiney. You only need to blitz a rad once, after that the surface flux is gone for good. Part 2 is still useful to clean a loop but that's a whole nother deal.

-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It wont eat away enough copper in the small amount of time its should be left in and its not strong enough to do any damage. You may find its dissolved access flux and if that was covering a hole then its entirely possible it got though qc controllers. The acid used in the Part one is the same acid used in normal rad cleaning process around the world but a little weaker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks for the reply, that was along the lines of what I was thinking. The other 2 rads, same make and model and had part 1 in for the same time had no issues at all.

It is a really tiny hole that you would never have seen it with the naked eye. I was air leak testing, and some of my soapy water happened to drop in that area and I finally heard and then saw the bubbles. Not sure if there is a good way to fix it....I'm open to ideas if anyone has any.


----------



## HiTekJeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Phosphoric acid, gear to handle the phosphoric acid, an electric pH test meter, and some measuring cups and stuff.
> 
> The pro kit is primarily to clean radiators out, as flux can mess up certain coolants. Part two, on it's own, is primarily to remove particle buildup and the such from your loop and to neutralize the pH. Part one on it's own is a big nope, alsoways use it in conjunction with part 2. Combined they remove flux from the surface of the solder joints within the radiators, clean out the inside of the rads, brings any particles in the entire loop into suspension, clean the loop out, and bring any residual coolant in there to true neutral pH.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> -Z


Thanks for the details and letting me know. My radiators were brand new when I bought them and I personally cleaned them out before with the hot water and such as many suggest. I will be replacing my entire loop with new Primochill Advanced LRT tubing, so I really don't need to clean the tubes since they will all be new. However, I wasn't sure about the rads, but I don't think I need to buy the Mayhem's kit do you given the above?


----------



## emsj86

Deleted


----------



## emsj86

Can I join ?







[/URL]expanded glacer 240l temps are great


----------



## emsj86




----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Can I join ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]expanded glacer 240l temps are great


Lol, there's not really a club member list. It's more of a community support, and project display thread. Your rig looks great, though it could do with a tad more colour but that's just my two cents.


----------



## cyphon

Not bad emsj86.

In the future, please try to not double post







you can always go back and add additional content to an existing post
We get a lot of posts here and it just helps it stay clean and organized


----------



## emsj86

Ty. And I'll make sure to not double post


----------



## AgMa

Hi,
I have a question for you guys...
Is there any problem (with ph for example) if i use Mayhems pastel blueberry with alphacool's rads?
I know that with some colors there will be problems of color change (like yellow for example) but I would like to know especially for the pastel blueberry.
I know about blitz pro, but if it's possible to avoid it I would prefer it.
What do you think?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgMa*
> 
> Hi,
> I have a question for you guys...
> Is there any problem (with ph for example) if i use Mayhems pastel blueberry with alphacool's rads?
> I know that with some colors there will be problems of color change (like yellow for example) but I would like to know especially for the pastel blueberry.
> I know about blitz pro, but if it's possible to avoid it I would prefer it.
> What do you think?


You can have ph issues absolutely.

Blitz is the best thing but you could try using boiling water and hope for the best...


----------



## AgMa

Thanks for your reply,
Is it sure that blueberry also changes color?
Are there any "victims" here?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgMa*
> 
> Hi,
> I have a question for you guys...
> Is there any problem (with ph for example) if i use Mayhems pastel blueberry with alphacool's rads?
> I know that with some colors there will be problems of color change (like yellow for example) but I would like to know especially for the pastel blueberry.
> I know about blitz pro, but if it's possible to avoid it I would prefer it.
> What do you think?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgMa*
> 
> Thanks for your reply,
> Is it sure that blueberry also changes color?
> Are there any "victims" here?


Well a wacked out enough pH will ruin any coolant but that's not the issue you're seeing with pastel. The issue isn't with the dye, and it's not with the pH: It's with the solder they use to bind rads or more specifically the flux on the surface of those joints. The flux CAN mess up dyes but it can also mess up Pastel itself, even if there are no dyes in it. Give your rads a good cleaning with Blitz pro and after that the surface flux will have been stripped. After that I'd advise against using part 1 of blitz on the rads as it wont really do anything other than strip the patina, part 2 is still ok to use to clean though.

-Z


----------



## FrancisJF

What is the best clear tube for Mayhems Aurora 2?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> What is the best clear tube for Mayhems Aurora 2?


Primochill Advanced LRT is the only clear flex tubing known not to have plasticizers leeching issues, so Adv LRT. It's been known to discolour after a long while, but that's a small price to pay for not having to deal with plasticizers which are evil little things once they get in your loop. Rigid acrylic if you want a tubing that wont discolour or leech plasticizers.

-Z


----------



## AgMa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well a wacked out enough pH will ruin any coolant but that's not the issue you're seeing with pastel. The issue isn't with the dye, and it's not with the pH: It's with the solder they use to bind rads or more specifically the flux on the surface of those joints. The flux CAN mess up dyes but it can also mess up Pastel itself, even if there are no dyes in it. Give your rads a good cleaning with Blitz pro and after that the surface flux will have been stripped. After that I'd advise against using part 1 of blitz on the rads as it wont really do anything other than strip the patina, part 2 is still ok to use to clean though.
> 
> -Z


Ok, so the only solution is a good cleaning with blitz pro.
Another question, you said not to use part 1 as it won't do anything important, but as far as I know there are 2 steps using blitz and you have to start from step 1.Except if I'm wrong...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgMa*
> 
> Ok, so the only solution is a good cleaning with blitz pro.
> Another question, you said not to use part 1 as it won't do anything important, but as far as I know there are 2 steps using blitz and you have to start from step 1.Except if I'm wrong...


Part 1 is for rads only. This is an acid based solution that eats all the nasties that are in there from manufacturing that cause issues with fluids.
Part 2 is for the full system and helps pick up and remove debris, neutralizes pH, and has surfactants that will help fluids as well.

You don't have to do both parts. If you do part 1, you really want part 2 to get you pH back to neutral. You can run just part 2 if you don't need to clean the rads. The pro kit has both, the basic kit has just the part 2


----------



## AgMa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Part 1 is for rads only. This is an acid based solution that eats all the nasties that are in there from manufacturing that cause issues with fluids.
> Part 2 is for the full system and helps pick up and remove debris, neutralizes pH, and has surfactants that will help fluids as well.
> 
> You don't have to do both parts. If you do part 1, you really want part 2 to get you pH back to neutral. You can run just part 2 if you don't need to clean the rads. The pro kit has both, the basic kit has just the part 2


Ok I see.I think that I have to do part 1 just to be sure, as alphacool's rads have many leftover nasties even after a good clean with distilled water.
Thanks both for your time guys!!!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgMa*
> 
> Ok I see.I think that I have to do part 1 just to be sure, as alphacool's rads have many leftover nasties even after a good clean with distilled water.
> Thanks both for your time guys!!!


Np. And yeah, alphacool rads are probably the worst about cleaning during manufacturing, so I'd recommend doing it


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgMa*
> 
> Ok, so the only solution is a good cleaning with blitz pro.
> Another question, you said not to use part 1 as it won't do anything important, but as far as I know there are 2 steps using blitz and you have to start from step 1.Except if I'm wrong...


Erm, maybe I wasn't clear. Part 1 is the most important part for the initial cleaning. It is a solvent, it is the part of the cleaner that's going to strip the flux from the solder joints. It's also going to strip anything else that might be in the rad, including the protective patina that may have developed. The patina will reform over time. AFTER the flux is stripped from the solder joints it's gone, so there's no need to reuse part 1 in the future. So yes, you do need to use part 1 for the initial cleaning, my point was AFTER the flux has been removed all part 1 will do is strip the patina, something you don't want to do, but you do want to use it on the initial cleaning. Part 2 does NOT need part 1 to perform it's role, but part 2 isn't going to remove the flux. Part 2 suspends any particles or debris, and neutralizes pH. Hope that clears things up.

-Z


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Primochill Advanced LRT is the only clear flex tubing known not to have plasticizers leeching issues, so Adv LRT. It's been known to discolour after a long while, but that's a small price to pay for not having to deal with plasticizers which are evil little things once they get in your loop. Rigid acrylic if you want a tubing that wont discolour or leech plasticizers.
> 
> -Z


Tempting to do acrylic tubing but I know nothing about them.


----------



## QAKE

Just messing around with Aurora and UV dye












I will add a little video later, where you can clearly see the Aurora effect


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Just messing around with Aurora and UV dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will add a little video later, where you can clearly see the Aurora effect


Looks like you're stock piling fissile isotopes. Should I call the CIA?


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Looks like you're stock piling fissile isotopes. Should I call the CIA?


Beingin chemistry helps a lot to find cool stuff









You also can call the CIA, they can't do a thing where I am









Anyway, talking about fissible material, did you knew that some uranium was added to glasses to make them glow in the night? (under UV light)

Proof?

Anyone tried to add something like that in their build?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Beingin chemistry helps a lot to find cool stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You also can call the CIA, they can't do a thing where I am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, talking about fissible material, did you knew that some uranium was added to glasses to make them glow in the night? (under UV light)
> 
> Proof?
> 
> Anyone tried to add something like that in their build?


Well maybe now......


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Beingin chemistry helps a lot to find cool stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You also can call the CIA, they can't do a thing where I am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, talking about fissible material, did you knew that some uranium was added to glasses to make them glow in the night? (under UV light)
> 
> Proof?
> 
> Anyone tried to add something like that in their build?


Sure, non refined uranium ore below a certain radioactivity threshold is pretty common to have when calibrate geiger counters. You can literally order it online, and have it shipped to you via USPS. People freak out WAY too much about fearing radiation. Grand Central Station in New York emits more radiation than nuclear reactors are allowed to before they get shut down in the U.S. Anyways, this is all getting a little off topic. Long story short, nice radioactive coolant.









-Z


----------



## AgMa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Erm, maybe I wasn't clear. Part 1 is the most important part for the initial cleaning. It is a solvent, it is the part of the cleaner that's going to strip the flux from the solder joints. It's also going to strip anything else that might be in the rad, including the protective patina that may have developed. The patina will reform over time. AFTER the flux is stripped from the solder joints it's gone, so there's no need to reuse part 1 in the future. So yes, you do need to use part 1 for the initial cleaning, my point was AFTER the flux has been removed all part 1 will do is strip the patina, something you don't want to do, but you do want to use it on the initial cleaning. Part 2 does NOT need part 1 to perform it's role, but part 2 isn't going to remove the flux. Part 2 suspends any particles or debris, and neutralizes pH. Hope that clears things up.
> 
> -Z


Clearly yes!


----------



## pompss

guys my new project white bloody angel

http://www.overclock.net/t/1515713/build-log-white-bloody-angel#post_22918560

I'm thinking to mix aurora 2 red with pastel red if there is not major issues.Any suggestion how to make the pastel red more like deep red or dark red??
Mick Some aurora 2 booster could help with my mix


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> guys my new project white bloody angel
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1515713/build-log-white-bloody-angel#post_22918560
> 
> I'm thinking to mix aurora 2 red with pastel red if there is not major issues.Any suggestion how to make the pastel red more like deep red or dark red??
> Mick Some aurora 2 booster could help with my mix


Spike red with blue to darken it up.
No severe foreseeable serious issues with mixing pastel and aurora 2, but a couple adverse side effects. Pastels life is 2-3 years. A2s surfactant starts breaking down after a year, so that extended coolant life on Pastel is no good if you mix em together, you'd have to follow the Aurora lifespan. Same precautions as pastel, blitz it all clean. Same precautions as aurora, simple loop, high flow rates, no pinboard blocks, strip the injection plate if your waterblock has em, single row radiators (preferably). Will it work? Probably. How long will it last? *insert incorrect guess here*

-Z


----------



## vilius572

Pastel Sunset Yellow


----------



## psycho84

I love the Mint Green Pastel


----------



## Mayhem

The necessary changes to the rads have been completed. Some are being air shipped soon to us. The rest will come by sea and ETA is 40 days. The ones that are going to be air shipped well some are spoken for already and the rest will go up on our own site for purchase. We will post pics of them all once they are here and ready for sale.


----------



## VSG

That's great news


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Just messing around with Aurora and UV dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will add a little video later, where you can clearly see the Aurora effect


I'm really interested in the aurora uv effect .
Can't wait to see the video


----------



## Nichismo

I doubt ill ever use any other coolant ever again....

except I was nervous about mixing colors and wasting time and precious coolant, so I ended up buying pre-mixed pastels which turned out perfect. But now I have a desire to go crazy with all the possible dyes available and creating a couple over-the-top awesome vibrant stunning face melting one-of-a-kind colors for my two loops....

Although sometimes its hard for me to take good enough pictures that really display the true color of the coolants.... that and they arent always consistent when I take several.


----------



## cyphon

Build using pastel white will be done soon








Aiming to have it done by the end of the weekend.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Pastel Sunset Yellow


I like it. Is the pump not mounted and if it's not does it vibrate or cause anymore noise?


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I like it. Is the pump not mounted and if it's not does it vibrate or cause anymore noise?


before it was mounted to the bottom of the case but it was rattling and making a lot of noise but now it's dead quiet. Getting pump top now soon so I don't know how it will be.


----------



## Mayhem

Cool saw mayhems coolant on TV tonight in the UK on www.channel4.com/programmes/gadget-man/on-demand/58397-008


----------



## emin911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kvickstick*
> 
> Mayhems Pastel Orange with PrimoChill LRT Crystal Clear tubing looks stunning! <3


I just got the pastel orange mixed it with 750mL of distilled water, my color doesn't look anything like that. Did you add anything extra to yours? red dye? special lighting(uv?)?

Here is how mine looks like:

http://s867.photobucket.com/user/eminmargosian/media/20140929_182400.jpg.html

http://s867.photobucket.com/user/eminmargosian/media/20140929_184044.jpg.html


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Cool saw mayhems coolant on TV tonight in the UK on www.channel4.com/programmes/gadget-man/on-demand/58397-008


Of course that video is region restricted!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I doubt ill ever use any other coolant ever again....
> 
> except I was nervous about mixing colors and wasting time and precious coolant, so I ended up buying pre-mixed pastels which turned out perfect. But now I have a desire to go crazy with all the possible dyes available and creating a couple over-the-top awesome vibrant stunning face melting one-of-a-kind colors for my two loops....
> 
> Although sometimes its hard for me to take good enough pictures that really display the true color of the coolants.... that and they arent always consistent when I take several.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful build, I don't think you need any different or more spectacular colours, but some lighting would probably make it a bit more showy.

-Z


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Beautiful build, I don't think you need any different or more spectacular colours, but some lighting would probably make it a bit more showy.
> 
> -Z


Thanks









I certainly need to implement the cabling job.... Im getting a new PSU within the next couple days, so ill be adding white single braid sleeved cables to the 24 pin and PCI gpu ports after that. Ive already bought and recieved a boat load of cable combs and clamps, I really want to nail a professional-like job for the cable deal.

Ive got a couple 8" Logisys white LED bars, one mounted on both the ceiling and floor. They dont seem to display very well in recent pictures ive taken.... Im trying to see what little features I can implement to really set it off, without going overboard or looking to flashy.



Any ideas? I was torn between LEDs vs Cathodes for a long time, and I ended up choosing the LED bars simply because I dont need an inverter. But now, I really want to add a rocker switch in a PCI slot, and I like some of the Mod/smart kits with the cold cathodes, black box and rocker switch all hooked up and ready to go. But they were pricey so I ended up passing, but now its starting to bug me how I cant turn off my chassis lights.

Ive also considered adding some sort of lighting to the reservors, or perhaps the CPU block.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Beautiful build, I don't think you need any different or more spectacular colours, but some lighting would probably make it a bit more showy.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I certainly need to implement the cabling job.... Im getting a new PSU within the next couple days, so ill be adding white single braid sleeved cables to the 24 pin and PCI gpu ports after that. Ive already bought and recieved a boat load of cable combs and clamps, I really want to nail a professional-like job for the cable deal.
> 
> Ive got a couple 8" Logisys white LED bars, one mounted on both the ceiling and floor. They dont seem to display very well in recent pictures ive taken.... Im trying to see what little features I can implement to really set it off, without going overboard or looking to flashy.
> 
> 
> 
> *Any ideas?* I was torn between LEDs vs Cathodes for a long time, and I ended up choosing the LED bars simply because I dont need an inverter. But now, I really want to add a rocker switch in a PCI slot, and I like some of the Mod/smart kits with the cold cathodes, black box and rocker switch all hooked up and ready to go. But they were pricey so I ended up passing, but now its starting to bug me how I cant turn off my chassis lights.
> 
> Ive also considered adding some sort of lighting to the reservors, or perhaps the CPU block.
Click to expand...

It's not exactly in the lighting department, but I think it's worth considering . . . .

Everywhere you use fittings and need a 90* turn, you use the sweeping rotaries with a nice radius, but everywhere you have tubing that needs to turn 90*, you have those sharp tubing to tubing 90's.

They break up what should be a nice continuous run of tubing and the sharp corners versus the radiused corners looks inconsistent.

If you retube with bends where you have the sharp 90's, it wouldn't look as choppy, and would really look more consistent and Pro.

Darlene


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If
> I certainly need to implement the cabling job.... Im getting a new PSU within the next couple days, so ill be adding white single braid sleeved cables to the 24 pin and PCI gpu ports after that. Ive already bought and recieved a boat load of cable combs and clamps, I really want to nail a professional-like job for the cable deal.
> 
> Ive got a couple 8" Logisys white LED bars, one mounted on both the ceiling and floor. They dont seem to display very well in recent pictures ive taken.... Im trying to see what little features I can implement to really set it off, without going overboard or looking to flashy.
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas? I was torn between LEDs vs Cathodes for a long time, and I ended up choosing the LED bars simply because I dont need an inverter. But now, I really want to add a rocker switch in a PCI slot, and I like some of the Mod/smart kits with the cold cathodes, black box and rocker switch all hooked up and ready to go. But they were pricey so I ended up passing, but now its starting to bug me how I cant turn off my chassis lights.
> 
> Ive also considered adding some sort of lighting to the reservors, or perhaps the CPU block.


if there by any chance 3 pin LEDs. Which you can get for 8-10 dollars at icemodZ you can control them by the motherboard fans to shut them off


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's not exactly in the lighting department, but I think it's worth considering . . . .
> 
> Everywhere you use fittings and need a 90* turn, you use the sweeping rotaries with a nice radius, but everywhere you have tubing that needs to turn 90*, you have those sharp tubing to tubing 90's.
> 
> They break up what should be a nice continuous run of tubing and the sharp corners versus the radiused corners looks inconsistent.
> 
> If you retube with bends where you have the sharp 90's, it wouldn't look as choppy, and would really look more consistent and Pro.
> 
> Darlene


thanks for the input, all ideas, insight, and constructive criticism is welcome. Thats how knowledge and education progress most









I knew for a fact from the beginning that I wanted the sweeping 90 degree snakes to mirror each other on the CPU block, as I had seen this done a few times in other builds and I was very fond of it. I considered your proposal in the other areas, but honestly I didnt necessarily weigh the options in hindsight very much, aside from trying to provide symmetry as best as possible.

I was using a supply of fittings that came 100% as a catered order toward my last build, and I did not want to order more fittings unless I absolutely had to, so that was played into too. I had to work within the realm of style that I had used for my last setup, which in retrospect, is a vastly different overall vibe than this one.

One of the biggest aspects of rigid acrylic loops that I love, is the builds that have a more industrial, plumbing pipeline look. Having the majority of tubing either running vertical or horizontal at all times is a main facet of my style, and the other biggie being a heavy influence of boxy or square overall designs. I like this look in cars, and architecture too.

I mainly use the snake rotaries for their versatility/flexibility, but aesthetic wise, I like the 90 degree couplers. The most far sided and foremost visible angles in the loop, and thus the ones that would form the "outline" of the setup at first glance, were the only ones that I found important to me to have the 90 degree couplers, as I wanted a box like outline, complete opposite of flexible soft tubing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> if there by any chance 3 pin LEDs. Which you can get for 8-10 dollars at icemodZ you can control them by the motherboard fans to shut them off


they are Molex 4pin


----------



## GringoKillah1

Hey guys








If i will mix 100-150ml of X1 with 1.5L of Pastel, its ok?


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Just messing around with Aurora and UV dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will add a little video later, where you can clearly see the Aurora effect


I want to see more results of UV aurora?

Mick needs to make the Aurora Booster for sale!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> I want to see more results of UV aurora?
> 
> Mick needs to make the Aurora Booster for sale!


what is this Aurora Booster you speak of?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GringoKillah1*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If i will mix 100-150ml of X1 with 1.5L of Pastel, its ok?


I don't know why you'd want to, but it shouldn't harm anything.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> what is this Aurora Booster you speak of?


Mick's been working on a mixture of surfactants and the pearlescent nanoparticles used in aurora that, when added to aurora, should bring particles back into suspension, and increase the lifespan of Aurora. He mentioned he isn't sure if they'll put it into production yet, but given that he's mentioned it it's probably going to spread like wildfire now, just like those 480mm rads.









-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I don't know why you'd want to, but it shouldn't harm anything.
> 
> -Z
> Mick's been working on a mixture of surfactants and the pearlescent nanoparticles used in aurora that, when added to aurora, should bring particles back into suspension, and increase the lifespan of Aurora. He mentioned he isn't sure if they'll put it into production yet, but given that he's mentioned it it's probably going to spread like wildfire now, just like those 480mm rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


Pretty much lol.


----------



## error-id10t

So for some reason I cannot find and haven't seen X1 sold here for ages anymore, I can get the XT-1 however. So with XT-1 it makes up to 3L, so does that mean I could use it with 2L bottle here or should I just use 100ml of it to a 2L bottle?


----------



## Mayhem

The ratios are on the advertisement so you can mix it as you wish.

You can mix it from 5% to 60% depending on what temp you wish to go down to.

Mix Guide ratios here -> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/guides/mayhems-xt-1-coolant-guide


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> So for some reason I cannot find and haven't seen X1 sold here for ages anymore, I can get the XT-1 however. So with XT-1 it makes up to 3L, so does that mean I could use it with 2L bottle here or should I just use 100ml of it to a 2L bottle?


http://www.thekoolroom.com/category/coolant-additive--dye/2/


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> So for some reason I cannot find and haven't seen X1 sold here for ages anymore, I can get the XT-1 however. So with XT-1 it makes up to 3L, so does that mean I could use it with 2L bottle here or should I just use 100ml of it to a 2L bottle?


Definitely follow the guide in the product information as the ratios vary.

Do be advised that it is ethylene glycol based. Personal preference if you are into EGs or not


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> http://www.thekoolroom.com/category/coolant-additive--dye/2/


Yeah, unfortunately they haven't stocked it for few months now. PLE is only other store but they don't sell X1.

_This product is temporarily unavailable_
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The ratios are on the advertisement so you can mix it as you wish.
> 
> You can mix it from 5% to 60% depending on what temp you wish to go down to.
> 
> Mix Guide ratios here -> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/guides/mayhems-xt-1-coolant-guide


So if I just go by that, I'm now even more confused. I'm just using water and X1 did the job, is XT-1 not what I want?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> So for some reason I cannot find and haven't seen X1 sold here for ages anymore, I can get the XT-1 however. So with XT-1 it makes up to 3L, so does that mean I could use it with 2L bottle here or should I just use 100ml of it to a 2L bottle?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> Yeah, unfortunately they haven't stocked it for few months now. PLE is only other store but they don't sell X1.
> 
> _This product is temporarily unavailable_
> So if I just go by that, I'm now even more confused. I'm just using water and X1 did the job, is XT-1 not what I want?


XT-1 is an ethylene glycol based coolant. Ethylene glycol is what they use in cars for antifreeze, so it can be used to go subzero temps IF you're using a chiller. This is what the "mixing ratios" are referring to. I'm assuming you're just going with a standard loop. XT-1 is fine for a normal loop, EG is a very potent anti-corrosive as well as an inherent anti-microbial. You should be fine with XT-1, just be sure to mix with ratios recommended on the bottle, which is 5% XT-1 to 95% distilled water, so the whole bottle of 150ml mixed with 2850ml of distilled water you'll get 3liters of water.

-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> XT-1 is an ethylene glycol based coolant. Ethylene glycol is what they use in cars for antifreeze, so it can be used to go subzero temps IF you're using a chiller. This is what the "mixing ratios" are referring to. I'm assuming you're just going with a standard loop. XT-1 is fine for a normal loop, EG is a very potent anti-corrosive as well as an inherent anti-microbial. You should be fine with XT-1, just be sure to mix with ratios recommended on the bottle, which is 5% XT-1 to 95% distilled water, so the whole bottle of 150ml mixed with 2850ml of distilled water you'll get 3liters of water.


And make sure you aren't adding any other chemicals to the loop. They aren't needed and can cause some awful gunking


----------



## error-id10t

Alright thanks, that's why I liked X1. Simple set and forget and it fit nicely to our 2L bottles lol. Now I have to do some measuring.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

hey guys, had some problems with my loop and had to bow out of watercooling for a while.

i was running EKoolant blood red in my loop and noticed that after about a year the coolant had gotten darker. i grabbed blitz part 2 and thought id give it a shot. after running part 2 in the loop for most of the day, i drained the system and flushed it well. i filled it once again with DI water, and let that run in the loop for a few more hours. the water was coming out clear when i drained it, so i figured i was good to go. i put in the X1 Clear UV blue fluid and noticed that almost immediately the coolant went from clear to a light shade of purple. i assumed that maybe the coolant picked up some leftover blood red that was stuck in one of my rads, so i once again, drained the loop, filled with blitz part 2, ran for a few more hours, drained and flushed till clear again. i filled the loop back up with UV clear, and everything looked good, no more purple......till i got up the next morning. when i started up my pc the next day, the clear coolant was literally purple. i needed to use my pc for a while, so i let it run with the coolant in it, and over time, it got darker and darker.

so, frustrated, i drained my loop once more, and this time i only flushed with tons of DI water. i probably put 2 gallons or more through the system. i was now out of clear UV Blue, so i mixed up the UV Blue EKoolant that had come with my very first water cooling kit. as soon as i got a full flow through the system, the UV blue turned a lovely shade of you guessed it, purple.

i really didnt want to take apart my whole loop for this cleaning, but looking back, it would have probably gone much better if i had taken out my loop and used the whole blitz pro kit. one good thing did come out of this though, when i was taking my loop out of my pc, i found a crack in the acrylic tube that was directly over my GPU. looks like it started up under where the O ring and the compression fitting meet and spread out from there. a little longer and it probably would have leaked onto my 780........

anyways, im guessing that the purple color change was due to a PH issue, and of course like a dummy i didnt check the PH with the included strips. i ended up using the whole bottle of UV clear and about half of the UV clear dye, only to flush them out almost immediately lol. looking inside the 240 rad (EK brand) i can see lots of what looks like rust.

im on the fence about my options. i can either continue to run on air cooling (reference 780 and a corsair h60), buy 2 new rads, new coolant, new dye, and more acrylic, and install it all again, or grab another blitz kit so i can get part 1 and try to clean my rads, then retube and try again.....

frustrating place to be in, and im honestly just thinking about sticking to air, unloading my CSQ clean supremacy and 780 block and moving on................but dang...watercooling is my sexy wife....cant just kick her to the curb............can i?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> hey guys, had some problems with my loop and had to bow out of watercooling for a while.
> 
> i was running EKoolant blood red in my loop and noticed that after about a year the coolant had gotten darker. i grabbed blitz part 2 and thought id give it a shot. after running part 2 in the loop for most of the day, i drained the system and flushed it well. i filled it once again with DI water, and let that run in the loop for a few more hours. the water was coming out clear when i drained it, so i figured i was good to go. i put in the X1 Clear UV blue fluid and noticed that almost immediately the coolant went from clear to a light shade of purple. i assumed that maybe the coolant picked up some leftover blood red that was stuck in one of my rads, so i once again, drained the loop, filled with blitz part 2, ran for a few more hours, drained and flushed till clear again. i filled the loop back up with UV clear, and everything looked good, no more purple......till i got up the next morning. when i started up my pc the next day, the clear coolant was literally purple. i needed to use my pc for a while, so i let it run with the coolant in it, and over time, it got darker and darker.
> 
> so, frustrated, i drained my loop once more, and this time i only flushed with tons of DI water. i probably put 2 gallons or more through the system. i was now out of clear UV Blue, so i mixed up the UV Blue EKoolant that had come with my very first water cooling kit. as soon as i got a full flow through the system, the UV blue turned a lovely shade of you guessed it, purple.
> 
> i really didnt want to take apart my whole loop for this cleaning, but looking back, it would have probably gone much better if i had taken out my loop and used the whole blitz pro kit. one good thing did come out of this though, when i was taking my loop out of my pc, i found a crack in the acrylic tube that was directly over my GPU. looks like it started up under where the O ring and the compression fitting meet and spread out from there. a little longer and it probably would have leaked onto my 780........
> 
> anyways, im guessing that the purple color change was due to a PH issue, and of course like a dummy i didnt check the PH with the included strips. i ended up using the whole bottle of UV clear and about half of the UV clear dye, only to flush them out almost immediately lol. looking inside the 240 rad (EK brand) i can see lots of what looks like rust.
> 
> im on the fence about my options. i can either continue to run on air cooling (reference 780 and a corsair h60), buy 2 new rads, new coolant, new dye, and more acrylic, and install it all again, or grab another blitz kit so i can get part 1 and try to clean my rads, then retube and try again.....
> 
> frustrating place to be in, and im honestly just thinking about sticking to air, unloading my CSQ clean supremacy and 780 block and moving on................but dang...watercooling is my sexy wife....cant just kick her to the curb............can i?


Have you ever used Fesser Corrosion Blocker, or any other additives in your loop prior to filling with mayhems?

-Z


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Have you ever used Fesser Corrosion Blocker, or any other additives in your loop prior to filling with mayhems?
> 
> -Z


i did use mayhems biocide in a different loop quite some time ago, but that loop did have the same radiators in it. i had no issues with mayhems products after that though. i ran DI water with Laser green UV dye and a biocide, then pastel mint green, pastel white, and UV green in different loops throughout my time. all the loops did use the same 2 rads though, and ek coolstream 240 and a hardware labs black ice gtx 360. so the only additive i have used other than the concentrates was biocide in the Laser green loop. i had no issues with coolants after that. i was always able to flush my system really well and refill.

i did however use Primochill SysPrep before i put together this loop for the first time. but again, i have had 2 coolant swaps since then and have had no issues till now. do you think that i should try again with Blitz part one? or should i just cut my losses and buy new rads?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> i did use mayhems biocide in a different loop quite some time ago, but that loop did have the same radiators in it. i had no issues with mayhems products after that though. i ran DI water with Laser green UV dye and a biocide, then pastel mint green, pastel white, and UV green in different loops throughout my time. all the loops did use the same 2 rads though, and ek coolstream 240 and a hardware labs black ice gtx 360. so the only additive i have used other than the concentrates was biocide in the Laser green loop. i had no issues with coolants after that. i was always able to flush my system really well and refill.
> 
> i did however use Primochill SysPrep before i put together this loop for the first time. but again, i have had 2 coolant swaps since then and have had no issues till now. do you think that i should try again with Blitz part one? or should i just cut my losses and buy new rads?


Hmmm, I was half way hoping you would have said something along the lines of "I used *insert EG based coolant here* because that would mean there's probably some dyed gunk somewhere in your loop. Now that would be easy to diagnose. Anyways, if the issue is with the rads a blitz will remove anything and everything inside the rads except bare copper and solder. Other than that I'd advise disassembling the blocks and checking for scaling, or gunking just to be safe.

-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> i did use mayhems biocide in a different loop quite some time ago, but that loop did have the same radiators in it. i had no issues with mayhems products after that though. i ran DI water with Laser green UV dye and a biocide, then pastel mint green, pastel white, and UV green in different loops throughout my time. all the loops did use the same 2 rads though, and ek coolstream 240 and a hardware labs black ice gtx 360. so the only additive i have used other than the concentrates was biocide in the Laser green loop. i had no issues with coolants after that. i was always able to flush my system really well and refill.
> 
> i did however use Primochill SysPrep before i put together this loop for the first time. but again, i have had 2 coolant swaps since then and have had no issues till now. do you think that i should try again with Blitz part one? or should i just cut my losses and buy new rads?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Hmmm, I was half way saying you would have said something along the lines of "I used *insert EG based coolant here* because that would mean there's probably some dyed gunk somewhere in your loop. Now that would be easy to diagnose. Anyways, if the issue is with the rads a blitz will remove anything and everything inside the rads except bare copper and solder. Other than that I'd advise disassembling the blocks and checking for scaling, or gunking just to be safe.
> 
> -Z


For the sake of science and diagnoses, I'd isolate the rads and blocks before opening up all the blocks and run some fluid (maybe just water) through each loop (rad loop and block loop) and see if you get anything picked up and run a pH test as well. At least see if problems go away in one side.

Part 1 should be like the hitting the reset button on your rads and much cheaper than new purchases.

If it is something with your block side, then you may need to open them up and have a looksie


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> For the sake of science and diagnoses, I'd isolate the rads and blocks before opening up all the blocks and run some fluid (maybe just water) through each loop (rad loop and block loop) and see if you get anything picked up and run a pH test as well. At least see if problems go away in one side.
> 
> Part 1 should be like the hitting the reset button on your rads and much cheaper than new purchases.
> 
> If it is something with your block side, then you may need to open them up and have a looksie


the blocks i have are ek CSQ clean ones. i have already opened them up and cleaned them. they looked fine, no signs of staining or anything. looked like a typical used waterblock. ill give part 1 a shot. can you buy just the part 1 by itself or do i need to buy the whole pro kit? i already have part 2 teh gloves, goggles, ph strips, etc. i appreciate the comments guys.


----------



## Mayhem

The first 20 x 240,360,480 each "may" get a free matching fan grill with there rads. So if you get a 480 rad you'll get a 480 version. (this is if we get them made on time)




These will be made by "Mayhems Tech"


----------



## VSG

Those grills look pretty sweet. How many 480s are on the way via air, any idea?


----------



## Mayhem

20 only. There will only be 20 x 480 rads and 12 are spoken for already. There will be none coming via sea.


----------



## Eufawria

I got a question about the Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning Kit. I know that it comes in two parts, 1) For cleaning radiators and 2) for cleaning a whole loop. What I want to know is can we just use the part 1 to clean the radiators and all that and skip part 2 afterwards as I don't have an existing loop and all the waterblocks are new and haven't been used.


----------



## Mayhem

No you need part 2 in the rad as well because it neutralizes the acid and brings it back to a normal PH level. With out it acid will still be in the rad and wont do your whole system much good.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eufawria*
> 
> I got a question about the Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning Kit. I know that it comes in two parts, 1) For cleaning radiators and 2) for cleaning a whole loop. What I want to know is can we just use the part 1 to clean the radiators and all that and skip part 2 afterwards as I don't have an existing loop and all the waterblocks are new and haven't been used.


That's not exactly how the two parts work. Part one is a potent solvent with a very low pH meaning it's an acid. There's this stuff called flux in the solder they use to make radiators. Flux gets mixed in with your coolant and messes it up. So part one eats away the flux, cleans out the inner rad leaving nothing but copper and bare solder, any flux or grime will be removed. Part two is a powerful surfactant and a pH neutralizer. It takes any particles and suspends them in the coolant, so they don't get stuck anywhere. Think of it like a super slippery non viscous dish soap. It also neutralizes the pH, this is the important part concerning the relation between part one and two. Part two neutralizes the pH of the loop before filling. If you just flushed with distilled water after part one there might be traces of acid left in the droplets before filling, and it may react and mess up coolant after flushing. Part two, on the other hand, won't react with coolant and will bring pH back to true neutral. So you don't NEED to use part two on the whole loop, but if you use part one on the rads, you need to use part two on the rads lest you render the entire point of part 1 void. So to digress, it's not as simple as "Part one cleans the rads, part two cleans the rest". Hope that helps clear things up.

-Z


----------



## VSG

Blitz cleaning mini update (more details coming soon in the quad rad comparison):



Only thing that kinda surprised me was the EX560 given the other XSPC rads, I had 2 samples of the AX480 as well to play with.


----------



## Eufawria

I got a question about the Mayhems
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> That's not exactly how the two parts work. Part one is a potent solvent with a very low pH meaning it's an acid. There's this stuff called flux in the solder they use to make radiators. Flux gets mixed in with your coolant and messes it up. So part one eats away the flux, cleans out the inner rad leaving nothing but copper and bare solder, any flux or grime will be removed. Part two is a powerful surfactant and a pH neutralizer. It takes any particles and suspends them in the coolant, so they don't get stuck anywhere. Think of it like a super slippery non viscous dish soap. It also neutralizes the pH, this is the important part concerning the relation between part one and two. Part two neutralizes the pH of the loop before filling. If you just flushed with distilled water after part one there might be traces of acid left in the droplets before filling, and it may react and mess up coolant after flushing. Part two, on the other hand, won't react with coolant and will bring pH back to true neutral. So you don't NEED to use part two on the whole loop, but if you use part one on the rads, you need to use part two on the rads lest you render the entire point of part 1 void. So to digress, it's not as simple as "Part one cleans the rads, part two cleans the rest". Hope that helps clear things up.
> 
> -Z


Thanks a lot. That makes everything more clear now.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> That's not exactly how the two parts work. Part one is a potent solvent with a very low pH meaning it's an acid. There's this stuff called flux in the solder they use to make radiators. Flux gets mixed in with your coolant and messes it up. So part one eats away the flux, cleans out the inner rad leaving nothing but copper and bare solder, any flux or grime will be removed. Part two is a powerful surfactant and a pH neutralizer. It takes any particles and suspends them in the coolant, so they don't get stuck anywhere. Think of it like a super slippery non viscous dish soap. It also neutralizes the pH, this is the important part concerning the relation between part one and two. Part two neutralizes the pH of the loop before filling. If you just flushed with distilled water after part one there might be traces of acid left in the droplets before filling, and it may react and mess up coolant after flushing. Part two, on the other hand, won't react with coolant and will bring pH back to true neutral. So you don't NEED to use part two on the whole loop, but if you use part one on the rads, you need to use part two on the rads lest you render the entire point of part 1 void. So to digress, it's not as simple as "Part one cleans the rads, part two cleans the rest". Hope that helps clear things up.
> 
> -Z


thanks for the explanation also i have some questions i have 3 x brand new alphacool and brand new blocks.As i read i dont need to use part2 on the new blocks only we need to use part1 and part2 on rads.Whats the use of ph meter?I mean lets say we done with using part 1 and part 2 and the ph reading must be 7 but the meter shows ph 9 now what?


----------



## Mayhem

Over the long term the PH meter can aid in looking after your system and tell you when you need to clean your system or if you have to much acid in your system very much like looking after a fish tank .....


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Over the long term the PH meter can aid in looking after your system and tell you when you need to clean your system or if you have to much acid in your system very much like looking after a fish tank .....


ok thanks ,so the safe value must be 6.86?


----------



## Mayhem

7.4 is the best for a liquid cooled pc.


----------



## Flowwwie

I have an old H60 i was about the throw in the bin. Instead ive replaced the tubing with clear and about to fill it with Aurora Tharsis Red. Whats the expected outcome ? ^_^


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgraham1284*
> 
> For record. I'm using an alphacool read, ut60 240, and rx360. Been about a month now. Cleaned out both radiators distilled and vinegar. I haven't had coloring issues with the die.


I went from November to March w/o a color change .... then went to brownish red and now its black. Gonna Blitz it and try again over the holidays.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> What is the best clear tube for Mayhems Aurora 2?


The Primochill is DEHP free and very good but if looking for alternatives, Tygon 2475 not only has no DEHP plasticizers but no plasticizers of any kind which makes it a bit stiffer. It's water resistance is also higher than any other clear tubing that I have seen so it is very resistant to staining so attractive to those using dye colors known to be stain prone. I use short lengths on acrylic builds to isolate the pump from the rest of the system.


----------



## ch0c

Mr Mayhems, your website does not contain any information on what your dyes are contained or composed of, and in order for legal sale in the united states you must supply a list of these contents according to the FD&C act.

http://www.fda.gov/AboutFDA/WhatWeDo/History/FOrgsHistory/CFSAN/ucm083863.htm

http://www.fda.gov/ForIndustry/ColorAdditives/RegulatoryProcessHistoricalPerspectives/default.htm

I would like to have a URL or informations pertaining to the contents of your dyes for sale. Have you complied with all FDA rules and regulations regarding sales of color additive/dyes/food coloring in the USA? If so, a fact-sheet on the contents of the dyes should be readily available for consumers.

I am more a concerned consumer that is worried that you are selling standard FD&C food coloring (or lake pigments) as "specialized dyes" without complying with proper FDA standards of transparency. I want to know what I am using, and why.

I will appreciate your response and time taken to show facts pertaining to your products!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ch0c*
> 
> Mr Mayhems, your website does not contain any information on what your dyes are contained or composed of, and in order for legal sale in the united states you must supply a list of these contents according to the FD&C act.
> 
> http://www.fda.gov/AboutFDA/WhatWeDo/History/FOrgsHistory/CFSAN/ucm083863.htm
> 
> http://www.fda.gov/ForIndustry/ColorAdditives/RegulatoryProcessHistoricalPerspectives/default.htm
> 
> I would like to have a URL or informations pertaining to the contents of your dyes for sale. Have you complied with all FDA rules and regulations regarding sales of color additive/dyes/food coloring in the USA? If so, a fact-sheet on the contents of the dyes should be readily available for consumers.
> 
> I am more a concerned consumer that is worried that you are selling standard FD&C food coloring (or lake pigments) as "specialized dyes" without complying with proper FDA standards of transparency. I want to know what I am using, and why.
> 
> I will appreciate your response and time taken to show facts pertaining to your products!


Lol, this is a new one. What exactly is your concern?? Are you worried it is typical food coloring or that it will harm your system? Or do you intend to eat it cause it looks so delicious?

I'm not an expert, but not sure all those FDA rules apply as it is clearly stated not to be used other than it's intended use (in a computer) and not used in any consumable. It isn't shipping with a side of salmon or anything. Keep in mind that everything Mayhem ships over, goes through customs, before being sold. He's actually had to revise products to get it passable by us customs in the past as well (blitz kit for example).

Some general info, regarding safety.
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/download/Mayhems-Dye.pdf

Info on website
Quote:


> Each dye comes in a 15ml Capped squeezable bottle.
> Mayhems Dyes can be mix (unless otherwise stated).
> The strongest and brightest colour available to date.
> Tested to destruction so the user knows they will not clog a system.
> Will not break down or separate and will not destroy plastics, rubbers, sealants.
> None industrial Dyes there for do not contain contaminates
> 1 x 15ml bottle with do upwards of 5 US gallons or upwards 18.9 Ltrs
> Comes in UV active and None UV colours to mix and match.
> All our dyes are none toxic and conform to the highest standards ever seen in the water cooling world.
> Up to 3 years shelf life span. 2 Years once opened and kept in a cool, dry, dark environment.
> re·nowned for being the best you can get and will not clog or break down in a water cooling system.
> All our dyes are traceable back to source and we only use the highest quality dyes.
> Made and developed in the UK.


Emphasis on non-industrial dye, non-contaminant, and non-toxic.

Also, the dyes have been sold for many years now?? I think it is safe to say that due-diligence has been taken in the past and all legal channels have been covered.


----------



## ppkstat

Ι am not American and most definitely not an expert on the legislation of these issues. I am a clinical scientist thought and I find it very odd that a water cooling liquid would need FDA approval. If that is indeed the case I would personally worry more about over-regulation and the role of FDA rather than the safety of Mayhems Liquids.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ch0c*
> 
> Mr Mayhems, your website does not contain any information on what your dyes are contained or composed of, and in order for legal sale in the united states you must supply a list of these contents according to the FD&C act.
> 
> http://www.fda.gov/AboutFDA/WhatWeDo/History/FOrgsHistory/CFSAN/ucm083863.htm
> 
> http://www.fda.gov/ForIndustry/ColorAdditives/RegulatoryProcessHistoricalPerspectives/default.htm
> 
> I would like to have a URL or informations pertaining to the contents of your dyes for sale. Have you complied with all FDA rules and regulations regarding sales of color additive/dyes/food coloring in the USA? If so, a fact-sheet on the contents of the dyes should be readily available for consumers.
> 
> I am more a concerned consumer that is worried that you are selling standard FD&C food coloring (or lake pigments) as "specialized dyes" without complying with proper FDA standards of transparency. I want to know what I am using, and why.
> 
> I will appreciate your response and time taken to show facts pertaining to your products!


These are not products labeled for human consumption thus the FDA has no oversight over these products.
If this were an EPA request it would be a different story but again, this has 0 purpose for human consumption and it is not advertised as such so the FDA requirements have 0 applicability here and Mr. Mayhem doesn't have to disclose the details behind the mixes to protect trade secrets.


----------



## Mayhem

lol reading at above obversely hes never been on our site







.

http://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/support/msds-sheets

Were the only company whom do this direct out to the public (in the water cooling world) and we follow all regulations world wide and REACH standards with in the EU. In Fact were officially REACH complaint and we will soon be going for ISO 9001 standards.

LOL


----------



## VSG

I've seen your post of Aquafina and, unless you have a resistance meter, pH meter, TOC probe, toxicity analysis testing facilities, turbidity meters and various ion concentration electrodes like I do, you wouldn't recommend Aquafina based on a company spec sheet. There's a reason I pay for certain brands of distilled water only even though I can get all the DI water I want for free.

Edit: This post was in reference to a now-deleted post, that's why it seems out of place


----------



## ch0c

Their process is remarkably transparent. I suggest you rethink that arguement. What does a water manufacturer state to gain from that? I'm sure they will sell just as much water, the average water drinker doesn't care about exact chemistry as posted on their site. And if you have access to such scientific equipment why don't you analyze a basic mayhems color and tell us if its something innovative as you say.

Have you not read the martinslab on "ultrapure h20". The people are such suckers for good marketing. Your loop operates under the EXACT same type of principles that an automobile or motorcycle operates under. A source of heat, being dissapated by a radiator (metal, copper) with a coolant being pumped through both. As a matter of fact, the differences between a motorcycle radiator and watercooling one are very small, if any. Now, does every person that tops up their coolant NEED ultra pure super water? No, they get bottled water or distilled water from a hardware store. Some use tap water, as EG kills almost every damn thing it comes in contact with.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ch0c*
> 
> Their process is remarkably transparent. I suggest you rethink that arguement. What does a water manufacturer state to gain from that? I'm sure they will sell just as much water, the average water drinker doesn't care about exact chemistry as posted on their site.


Dude I am telling you I have had to test water for a water cleaning project a few years back and specs don't match up reality. What part of that is "rethinking an argument"? Anyway I am done wasting my time here. Please do go ahead and use Aquafina all you want but don't push it down anyone's throats or try to force people to not buy things you don't agree with. It's called freedom of choice and unless you have actual numbers from yourself or a reputable source that I trust to back up your statements, I am not paying anymore attention.


----------



## QAKE

Genius here! Let's take an example. Mayhems laser green dye. I suspect it to be based on fluorescein (I worked in an analysis lab). Fluorescein is a red solid.
Fluorescein is a strong dye used in many ways. They also use it to color an entire river in green during St. patrick in Chicago river.
S phrases of the component are 22 and 24/25, which literally mean: don't sniff the powder, and avoid contact to skin and eyes (practically all substances have those 2 phrases, even pepper...)
So no cancerous stuff here.

For the coke formula, there is a bit more components that a simple dye.
Pantent take time and money to make it.

Concerning the Ultra Pure H2O, you probably know (as an expert in this field) that there is different ways to produce such water, and so different purities. In my lab the ultra ultra pure h2o (conditioned under N2, because if there is CO2 it makes H2CO3, taking your water into pH 5-6) cost more than 40 USD/liter.
What I want to say is that the water you use to fill batteries or irons probably isn't at the same grade than Mayhems water.

Concerning the prices, don't forget we are in a capitalism system, that has his strength and weaknesses

Anyway, I don't particularly have something against you, I have nothing against people that come with, facts, proof and numbers.

So if you want to say to us: "this is dangerous, this is crap!", come with scientific proofs and quotes, not only rumors and warnings

Now it just seems you're jealous or something like that.

We're not in a Barbie world mate, we're in a cruel and nasty world...


----------



## VSG

Qake, for curiosity sake do you know what the electrical resistivity of your ultra ultra pure water is? I have used similar treated water (not N2, but other inert gases) and that sounds absolutely wonderful.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Qake, for curiosity sake do you know what the electrical resistivity of your ultra ultra pure water is? I have used similar treated water (not N2, but other inert gases) and that sounds absolutely wonderful.


Yup, no problems, here are some numbers:

Ions Resistivity at 25 °C [MΩ·cm] 18.2
Conductivity at 25 °C [μS·cm−1] 0.0555
Acidity/Alkalinity pH at 25 °C 7.02 (although not a critical point, because the simple fact to drop the pH meter in the water does contaminate it and make it pH higher)
Organics Total Organic Carbon/p.p.b.(μg/l) <0.00001
Total Solids mg/kg <0.000001

Water wasn't stored in plastic or glass (contamination), but in high-grade monosilica.

It was purified through reverse osmosis, carbon filtration, microfiltration, ultrafiltration and ultraviolet oxidation.

I think this water has the proprieties of the ASTM (D1193-91) Class I, or something like that.

Hope it'll satisfact your curiosity









EDIT: There was also another type of water that was also specially filtered with a big magnet, to separate the H2O, the Deuterium H2O and Tritum H2O, but never used it


----------



## VSG

Thanks, we have near identical specs from a new instrument (RO, CF, UF and UV here too) in lab here and wanted to see how this compares. Good point about the pH probe, I try to get around it with multiple measurements with flushes in between but it can only help so much


----------



## 66racer

Thread cleaned.


----------



## VSG

Cheers man


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Thread cleaned.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Thread cleaned.


Thanks!


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Thread cleaned.


----------



## Mayhem

I must have missed something but thank you. I did get called a fantastic salesman hahah ...

Shipments are on there way whoot.


----------



## cyphon

And back to something positive.....

Blitz p2 should be going in the new system hopefully tonight or tomorrow







I'll put up some pics of the bubbly goodness


----------



## DeviousAddict

Hey Guys









I have just done my 1st water cooled build and i used the Pastel White. It looks awesome!
My main goal in the near futre is to do a white/gold build colour scheme.
I will be using White fittings so i want the coolant to look as gold as possible (liquid gold). Does any know how i can get a Liquid Gold look to the the pastel white im using?
I know i could use the Aurora for the metallic look but it will be in constant use so i can't.


----------



## MorpheusRO

Hi everybody!

I'm in the middle of my build and I have one question...
Considering that I have little time to work on the build and probably it will take around 2 more months to finish it, I want to ask if there is any problem if I "Blitz" my radiators with Part 1 (the whole process, with rinsing a few times with DI) and then let them like this, without using Part 2 on them until I have the build finished.

So, basically, the question is if it's safe to "Blitz Part 1" the radiators and "Blitz" them with Part 2 after 1.5 - 2 months?


----------



## Mayhem

@MorpheusRO No you must use part two soon after to neutralize the acid in the rads. just rinsing will not do the trick.

@DeviousAddict Gold is not easy to do an you really do have to build the system around the liquid. it wont work if you just add it to a system.

To every one else. We are going to make the aurora booster available to buy direct once ive made enough of it. I just need to tweak it a little more.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> To every one else. We are going to make the aurora booster available to buy direct once ive made enough of it. I just need to tweak it a little more.


Great news !!!


----------



## FrancisJF

Mayhems Blitz scares me where I have 2 toddlers. o_0

Is it necessary to use the Blitz just to use the Aurora 2?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Any news on 480 rads?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Mayhems Blitz scares me where I have 2 toddlers. o_0
> 
> Is it necessary to use the Blitz just to use the Aurora 2?


It really depends on the rads your are using, if they are brand new Alphacool, then Blitz will surely help. I believe it is the Mayhems Pastels that is most sensitive to left over flux and debris from radiators though, I'm not sure about Auroa 2? I used Blitz on my Alphacools and have been running Pastel in one loop and X-1 in the other for around 6 months now without any problems. I have two dogs see avatar, I know not the same as toddlers but I was nervous too about the danger. I would say if you are going to Blitz them check with your local town collection service to find the safest fastest way to get it out when you are done with it. If you don't have Alphacools then Blitz may not be necessary either though.







One more thing if you have toddlers be worried about having Aurora around too, as any coolant may look digestable to a little one too!


----------



## Mayhem

the 480's are in the post....


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> It really depends on the rads your are using, if they are brand new Alphacool, then Blitz will surely help. I believe it is the Mayhems Pastels that is most sensitive to left over flux and debris from radiators though, I'm not sure about Auroa 2? I used Blitz on my Alphacools and have been running Pastel in one loop and X-1 in the other for around 6 months now without any problems. I have two dogs see avatar, I know not the same as toddlers but I was nervous too about the danger. I would say if you are going to Blitz them check with your local town collection service to find the safest fastest way to get it out when you are done with it. If you don't have Alphacools then Blitz may not be necessary either though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more thing if you have toddlers be worried about having Aurora around too, as any coolant may look digestable to a little one too!


I have flushed my Alphacool rads with hot distilled water like 5 times and I am using distilled water as coolant. Cleaned my loop last month. So blitz is a must with the radiators I'm using, that sucks.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> I have flushed my Alphacool rads with hot distilled water like 5 times and I am using distilled water as coolant. Cleaned my loop last month. So blitz is a must with the radiators I'm using, that sucks.


My trick with those Rad's is to run hot water through them for 15 mins, then cold flush a few times with distilled water. Clean loop every time!


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> My trick with those Rad's is to run hot water through them for 15 mins, then cold flush a few times with distilled water. Clean loop every time!


That's what I was gonna do but my local hardware stores didn't have G1/4 converters or whatever their called.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> That's what I was gonna do but my local hardware stores didn't have G1/4 converters or whatever their called.


Here is a video that may help you out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9TwhwVlllo

A few guys on another forum who seem way more knowledgeable than me have said that this technique is overkill.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> @MorpheusRO No you must use part two soon after to neutralize the acid in the rads. just rinsing will not do the trick.
> 
> @DeviousAddict Gold is not easy to do an you really do have to build the system around the liquid. it wont work if you just add it to a system.
> 
> 
> 
> To every one else. We are going to make the aurora booster available to buy direct once ive made enough of it. I just need to tweak it a little more.












Can't wait!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Mayhems Blitz scares me where I have 2 toddlers. o_0
> 
> Is it necessary to use the Blitz just to use the Aurora 2?


Depends on your rads. You can try to do hot water flush or do a lemon juice solution, but it will not be as good as the blitz.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

How do i get one?


----------



## stickg1

When are the radiators available for sale?


----------



## cyphon

Bubbles...I haz them





I knew Blitz p2 was bubbly...but was not quite prepared for this, lol. Looks like Aurora is in there O_O. Though, Since I am gonna fill with pastel white, this is actually a good representation of what it will look like when finished


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

I am excited!! I will be receiving my blitz kit soon. Then to clean my radiators. I watched the mayhems part 1 and 2 videos so I hope I can get everything clean how it's supposed to be.

After part 1, if I flush with tap water, will I need to run a lot of distilled to get out the minerals left behind? I want to make sure I don't do part 2 with any left overs from tap water if I do so.


----------



## Mayhem

Ill let you into some early news. We at Mayhems have / are investing in a new company run by some we known for a while. Hes got an excellent rep for design and understanding of design and will be bringing out new products soon. The company will be called Mayhems Tech Ltd and the proto types rad covers above are just one of the new produts they are working on.



There is more work comming and many other items as well.... More info will be forth coming once every thing is ready and tested.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ill let you into some early news. We at Mayhems have / are investing in a new company run by some we known for a while. Hes got an excellent rep for design and understanding of design and will be bringing out new products soon. The company will be called Mayhems Tech Ltd and the proto types rad covers above are just one of the new produts they are working on.
> 
> 
> 
> There is more work comming and many other items as well.... More info will be forth coming once every thing is ready and tested.


Nice design !!!

Hey Mick for aurora 2 it better to remove completely the jet plate from ek supremacy waterblock ??


----------



## Mayhem

If you remove it will last longer how ever you will lose some of the cooling ability of the CPU block. Dont forget A2 is now down to nano scale.


----------



## pompss

Thanks








Since i have to premix aurora 2 with pastel i think its better i remove it even if i lose some Celsius


----------



## DeviousAddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @DeviousAddict Gold is not easy to do an you really do have to build the system around the liquid. it wont work if you just add it to a system.


I've changed my mind, I've gone for white monsoon fittings and the Mayhems Purple dye to mix into my Pastel white. Coming on Saturday


----------



## The EX1

anyone tried to make a black version of Aurora?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> anyone tried to make a black version of Aurora?


Mick had some black aurora with gold pearls mixed up a while ago but I don't think it ever went into production. Black with normal aurora would be... Difficult to say the least. Black is the absence of reflected light. Aurora works be reflecting light. Do you see the issue there?









-Z


----------



## The EX1

Reason I am asking is that I have some white Aurora 2 here with a bottle of black dye and the wheels started turning. If the dye doesn't make the pearls change color then perhaps you could have a really cool contrast with some LEDs aimed right at it.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Reason I am asking is that I have some white Aurora 2 here with a bottle of black dye and the wheels started turning. If the dye doesn't make the pearls change color then perhaps you could have a really cool contrast with some LEDs aimed right at it.


Black dye? As in clothing dye?









-Z


----------



## The EX1

No I have some Primochill black dye . It comes it handy when I want to make a color a little darker.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> No I have some Primochill black dye . It comes it handy when I want to make a color a little darker.


I don't trust primochill in my loop after my experience with their coolants. I couldn't recommend adding anything from them to your loop in all good faith, but that's just my two cents.

-Z


----------



## stickg1

Ahem, I was doing some maintenance yesterday and mistakenly grabbed my bottle of Gatorade to top off the loop instead of my purple X1 mixture. I feel like a jackass. I gotta go get a couple gallons of distilled and get the ole' pond pump and filter setup.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Ahem, I was doing some maintenance yesterday and mistakenly grabbed my bottle of Gatorade to top off the loop instead of my purple X1 mixture. I feel like a jackass. I gotta go get a couple gallons of distilled and get the ole' pond pump and filter setup.


Keep an eye on the temps . . . . . .

You may have stumbled onto something . . .









Darlene


----------



## stickg1

It looks pretty good, I think I have a couple of these in the closet...



Give it a little extra flavor!


----------



## Mayhem

lol let us all know how well it cools


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> It looks pretty good, I think I have a couple of these in the closet...
> 
> 
> 
> Give it a little extra flavor!


You know, for the xtreme coolers


----------



## akira749

I'm pretty sure that the C Vitamin is the secret


----------



## Deedaz

lol im reminded of THIS


----------



## tatmMRKIV

But then the koolaid guy might bust out of your loop all oh yeahing while your 1000s in pc components is ruined

Lol i am reminded of idiocracy "gatorade has what computers crave" electrolytes!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> But then the koolaid guy might bust out of your loop all oh yeahing while your 1000s in pc components is ruined
> 
> Lol i am reminded of idiocracy "gatorade has what computers crave" electrolytes!


So worth it....


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

I ran part 1 for 12 hours and inside the radiator I noticed the discoloration and oxidation of the copper. I know part 1 probably gave it a good cleaning but if I am not mistaken it did not remove any oxidation or discoloration in the radiator.

Should I load the rads with a mix of vinegar/distilled water to make it nice and shine inside? Makes me want to have done it before I used part 1.

With this being said, part 2 is 12hours running. Tomorrow I will get to put some things together after everything is nice and cleaned


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> I ran part 1 for 12 hours and inside the radiator I noticed the discoloration and oxidation of the copper. I know part 1 probably gave it a good cleaning but if I am not mistaken it did not remove any oxidation or discoloration in the radiator.
> 
> Should I load the rads with a mix of vinegar/distilled water to make it nice and shine inside? Makes me want to have done it before I used part 1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this being said, part 2 is 12hours running. Tomorrow I will get to put some things together after everything is nice and cleaned


Part one won't oxidize copper at all... What you're seeing is probably cupric phosphate. Part one may form some cupric phosphate, which is easily soluble in part 2. Part one will remove any flux, and any buildup in the rads, as well as the patina. The patina will reform over time. Don't run vinegar in it after you blitz it, that would be entirely redundant.

-Z


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Part one won't oxidize copper at all... What you're seeing is probably cupric phosphate. Part one may form some cupric phosphate, which is easily soluble in part 2. Part one will remove any flux, and any buildup in the rads, as well as the patina. The patina will reform over time. Don't run vinegar in it after you blitz it, that would be entirely redundant.
> 
> -Z


Thank you for explaining about the blitz kit, I was under the assumption part 1 would clean the oxidization or whatever build up was left after the manufacturing process. I did not mean part 1 caused it, sorry about that.

I won't put vinegar through but now I do regret running blitz 1 without using vinegar first. I wanted to get the inside of the rads nice and shiny.
After seeing part 1 of the mayhems video with the ruler demonstration I was hoping the same would happen to inside the radiators.

At least the radiators will be clean! Regardless of what the inside looks like, right


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Ahem, I was doing some maintenance yesterday and mistakenly grabbed my bottle of Gatorade to top off the loop instead of my purple X1 mixture. I feel like a jackass. I gotta go get a couple gallons of distilled and get the ole' pond pump and filter setup.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> Thank you for explaining about the blitz kit, I was under the assumption part 1 would clean the oxidization or whatever build up was left after the manufacturing process. I did not mean part 1 caused it, sorry about that.
> 
> I won't put vinegar through but now I do regret running blitz 1 without using vinegar first. I wanted to get the inside of the rads nice and shiny.
> After seeing part 1 of the mayhems video with the ruler demonstration I was hoping the same would happen to inside the radiators.
> 
> At least the radiators will be clean! Regardless of what the inside looks like, right


Part one should strip oxidation from the surface of the copper, but it may not remove it from the rad. Part two should remove it from the rad. I wouldn't worry if what you're seeing is a bluish-green tarnish. That's the patina, and it's actually beneficial. Patina is different from corrosion. Copper oxide is black, and means corrosion is actually eating through the rad. Copper Patina is, as I said, bluish-green and shields the underlying copper from oxidation while providing minimal thermal resistance. This is why they used copper pipes for so long, it forms a patina and won't corrode through. So long story short, if your rads core is bluish-green instead of shiny after you blitz it that may be beneficial. All that matters is flux and any contaminates are removed from the rad. Hope that clears things up a tad.

-Z


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 
> Part one should strip oxidation from the surface of the copper, but it may not remove it from the rad. Part two should remove it from the rad. I wouldn't worry if what you're seeing is a bluish-green tarnish. That's the patina, and it's actually beneficial. Patina is different from corrosion. Copper oxide is black, and means corrosion is actually eating through the rad. Copper Patina is, as I said, bluish-green and shields the underlying copper from oxidation while providing minimal thermal resistance. This is why they used copper pipes for so long, it forms a patina and won't corrode through. So long story short, if your rads core is bluish-green instead of shiny after you blitz it that may be beneficial. All that matters is flux and any contaminates are removed from the rad. Hope that clears things up a tad.
> 
> -Z


This worries me, when I looked inside the radiators it looked like it was spray painted inside with black on the end tank.

Tomorrow when I flush the 24hour run of part 2 I will take another look. Hopefully there is some color to it as I would rather be leaving the good in and not the bad. If I had another blitz kit on hand I would run the vinegar through first just to see.

I'll try to snap a picture if I remember, either I am looking at it wrong or I got some really dirty radiators from alphacool.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> This worries me, when I looked inside the radiators it looked like it was spray painted inside with black. Tomorrow when I flush the 24hour run of part 2 I will take another look. Hopefully there is some color to it as I would rather be leaving the good in and not the bad. If I had another blitz kit on hand I would run the vinegar through first just to be safe.
> 
> I'll try to snap a picture if I remember, either I am looking at it wrong or I got some really dirty radiators from alphacool.


My votes on it being really dirty. Alphacool isn't known to clean their rads very well, or at all for that matter. If it's never been cleaned before it's VERY likely just solder residue. I don't know if you've ever messed around with trying to solder something other than a PCB, but if you have you'd know how easy it is to burn it. I wouldn't worry about it.

-Z


----------



## error-id10t

Bought the Blitz basic, pretty excited but I haven't bought the XT1 as I don't want that. Are there really NO Australian distributors for this stuff? I see Mayhem stuff on few shops but nothing for X1 and only one place for XT1.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> Bought the Blitz basic, pretty excited but I haven't bought the XT1 as I don't want that. Are there really NO Australian distributors for this stuff? I see Mayhem stuff on few shops but nothing for X1 and only one place for XT1.


There's two Australian Mayhems vendors.

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/distributors#australia

Neither of them sell X1

FCPU ships internationally, but that might be a little drastic just for a bottle of coolant. On that note XT1 should work fine for you. There really isn't much of a difference between the two performance wise, XT1 has more potent anti corrosives, and X1 smells like liqueur.

-Z


----------



## QAKE

Hey guys, any expert of Pastel dying? I need an advice for a special color.
If yes, just PM me, thanks


----------



## Mayhem

Ask here so ever one can see the answer.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Hey guys, any expert of Pastel dying? I need an advice for a special color.
> If yes, just PM me, thanks


Just post an example of what you want and we'll run to help out.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just post an example of what you want and we'll run to help out.


Okay, here's a picture:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just post an example of what you want and we'll run to help out.


Ok,

The HTML code of the color: #06DEFB

Like THIS

Blueberry Pastels seems too dark fo it


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Okay, here's a picture:
> Ok,
> 
> The HTML code of the color: #06DEFB
> 
> Like THIS
> 
> Blueberry Pastels seems too dark fo it


yeah, that is a little lighter than the pastel blue. All you'd need is Pastel White and then gradually start adding the blue dye to get there: http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-dye-15ml-blue.html

Another idea, I haven't tried it yet, but you may could do like a 3:1 pastel blue to pastel white ratio.

EDIT: I should be filling up my PC with pastel white today/tomorrow and it uses just under 2L. I will probably make the 2L, so I could give it a test after my machine is filled, if you'd like. I have plenty of dye as well


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Okay, here's a picture:
> Ok,
> 
> The HTML code of the color: #06DEFB
> 
> Like THIS
> 
> Blueberry Pastels seems too dark fo it


Start with a Pastel Ice White base and add blue dye










EDIT : ninjaed by @cyphon


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Start with a Pastel Ice White base and add blue dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT : ninjaed by @cyphon


That's how I do


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That's how I do


loll


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> yeah, that is a little lighter than the pastel blue. All you'd need is Pastel White and then gradually start adding the blue dye to get there: http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-dye-15ml-blue.html
> 
> Another idea, I haven't tried it yet, but you may could do like a 3:1 pastel blue to pastel white ratio.
> 
> EDIT: I should be filling up my PC with pastel white today/tomorrow and it uses just under 2L. I will probably make the 2L, so I could give it a test after my machine is filled, if you'd like. I have plenty of dye as well


Thanks! And the blue is also a really tiny bit green, should I add 1/2 drop of green dye as well?

I already have 2L Pastel White

I ordered 1L Pastel Blueberry + Blue Dye + Green Dye

The color will be added in the next custom loop, you'll also be surprised







(BETA build) Color themed like my avatar

Anyway, thanks for the help!

I have no problem to mix the right color for transparent liquid, but I though I may have some problem with opaque liquid

@akira749,







Thanks as well


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Thanks! And the blue is also a really tiny bit green, should I add 1/2 drop of green dye as well?
> 
> I already have 2L Pastel White
> 
> I ordered 1L Pastel Blueberry + Blue Dye + Green Dye
> 
> The color will be added in the next custom loop, you'll also be surprised
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (BETA build) Color themed like my avatar
> 
> Anyway, thanks for the help!
> 
> I have no problem to mix the right color for transparent liquid, but I though I may have some problem with opaque liquid
> 
> @akira749,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks as well


A touch of emerald green you could do. Not sure you'd have to tho. Certainly wouldn't wanna overdo the green lol


----------



## Mayhem

ill have a look for you, im at work atm cos my lass has peed me off lol.

Right Ocean Blue dye + pastel (small amount)
Left Ocean Blue + UV Yellow Green + Pastel (tiny amount of UV Yellow Green)

I Personally think just go with Ocean Blue Plus pastel and you'll be close.


----------



## madmalkav

As the Mayhems Pastel site says there are problems with some tubes, I want to know if they work OK with Alphacool tubing.

Also, can someone confirm how much time it can stay on the loop?


----------



## Mayhem

You better off using primochill Advance LRT.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> As the Mayhems Pastel site says there are problems with some tubes, I want to know if they work OK with Alphacool tubing.
> 
> Also, can someone confirm how much time it can stay on the loop?


Alphacool soft or hard tubing?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> ill have a look for you, im at work atm cos my lass has peed me off lol.
> 
> Right Ocean Blue dye + pastel (small amount)
> Left Ocean Blue + UV Yellow Green + Pastel (tiny amount of UV Yellow Green)
> 
> I Personally think just go with Ocean Blue Plus pastel and you'll be close.


Yeah, I agree with ya


----------



## cyphon

Just filled the pc...camera died, so i will get pics later...

I have some reserve pastel white if anyone wants me do a test run on any color.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Alphacool soft or hard tubing?


Soft.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Alphacool soft or hard tubing?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Soft.


Sorry....this was just terrible when you consider Alphacool's nickname....Alphastool.............


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Soft.


Then go with Primochill Advanced LRT


----------



## madmalkav

So, is Alphacool tube known to be incompatible or are you guys doing the "better safe than sorry" thing?

(Sorry for my terrible sunday morning english)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> So, is Alphacool tube known to be incompatible or are you guys doing the "better safe than sorry" thing?
> 
> (Sorry for my terrible sunday morning english)


Primochill Adv LRT is the only recommended soft tubing for Mayhems. No other tubing has been tested to not have plasticizers issues. Most other soft tubing contains DEHP plasticizers which leech into the loop and cause severe anger issues for those forced to clean them out. Stick to Advanced LRT for soft tubing, or any brand of acrylic tubing if that's the route you go.

-Z


----------



## madmalkav

Thanks for the detailed explanation. How much time can the pastel be on the loop before changing it?


----------



## Mayhem

If you system goes over 32c (inline temp) as quick as 7 days depending on the thickness of the wall of tubing. The thicker the wall of tubing between ID and OD the quicker it will leach and the more it will leach. Thinner walled tubing take s a little longer and there is less of it.


----------



## madmalkav

If you are replying to me, I didn't understand a thing, probably because my question was badly written . What I want to ask is how frequenlty I will have to drain the loop and change the liquid for new one.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> If you are replying to me, I didn't understand a thing, probably because my question was badly written . What I want to ask is how frequenlty I will have to drain the loop and change the liquid for new one.


Aurora is good for about a year, X1 is good for 1-2 years, pastel is good for 2-3 years. Mick was referring to the tubing, and how long it would last before plasticizers issues are a threat if you used the Alphacool tubing.

-Z


----------



## madmalkav

Cool, thanks everybody for the patient explanations


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Cool, thanks everybody for the patient explanations


That's what this threads here for.









-Z


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> ill have a look for you, im at work atm cos my lass has peed me off lol.
> 
> Right Ocean Blue dye + pastel (small amount)
> Left Ocean Blue + UV Yellow Green + Pastel (tiny amount of UV Yellow Green)
> 
> I Personally think just go with Ocean Blue Plus pastel and you'll be close.


Ok, thanks for the test Mayhems









I'll let you know how it is in the finished product

EDIT: is it Ocean Blue dye or Blue dye that you used?


----------



## Mayhem

Ocean Blue Dye - http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/ocean-blue-15ml.html


----------



## NE0XY

My UV blue fluid stopped glowing after like 1 week of usage. Is there an explanation to this? Is there something I could've done or is it something I'm missing?
Thanks

Edit: It's the X1 - UV Blue 1ltr premix I'm talking about


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh your rads .... Just checked out you specs and if you haven't cleaned your rads correctly then it possibly because of the amount of crap in them. That formula has been selling for over 5 years and since them rads come out some pll have had issues when they haven't cleaned them out.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh your rads .... Just checked out you specs and if you haven't cleaned your rads correctly then it possibly because of the amount of crap in them.


Thank you for the response.

I cleaned the rads before putting them in the case with distilled water, fill shake empty repeat. Then once in the case I cleaned them out with 6ltr of distilled water in total. Filled the loop ran it for a while, emptied it out and repeat x3. So I don't know if that's the problem =/

I might be changing to acrylic tubing and pastel coolant soon, will I have a problem with that if I now have problem with the UV?


----------



## Mayhem

Washing out the rads with water will not clean them no matter how much water you put through them. We only suggest Mayhems Blitz now due to the fact it works







. You can use other methods which we've suggested in the past how ever they are not as good as blitz pro..


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Washing out the rads with water will not clean them no matter how much water you put through them. We only suggest Mayhems Blitz now due to the fact it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . You can use other methods which we've suggested in the past how ever they are not as good as blitz pro..


Okay thanks. I'll do that next time I'm changing coolant then.
Is it this one I'm supposed to use? http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/mayhems-blitz-basic.html


----------



## Mayhem

No you need this one -> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/mayhems-blitz-pro.html

If you do not want the PH Meter you can email sales at mayhems dot co dot uk direct and they may remove the PH meter but its not worth it as that is just a tiny cost of the kit :/.

Mick


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No you need this one -> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop2/mayhems-blitz-pro.html
> 
> If you do not want the PH Meter you can email sales at mayhems dot co dot uk direct and they may remove the PH meter but its not worth it as that is just a tiny cost of the kit :/.
> 
> Mick


Is the extra step super necessary? It's alot of radiators to take in and out =P
I'll do it If has a big impact obviously but I'd rather not if it's negligible


----------



## The EX1

Yes. part 1 of the blitz kit is what actually cleans the inside of the radiators. Part 2 returns the Ph to normal levels and acts as a surfactant to carry all the crap away that part 1 cleaned.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Sorry....this was just terrible when you consider Alphacool's nickname....Alphastool.............


Oh my god. I haven't laughed that loudly irl in a LONG time.


----------



## natsu2014

Anybody ever used mayhem's blood orange?







Ijust found it on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mayhems-X1-Premix-Fluid-Water-Cooling-1-Litre-BLOOD-Orange-/400386243408?pt=UK_Computing_Water_Cooling&hash=item5d38e13b50
Is it just a mistake or something like this exists?


----------



## FrancisJF

So I decided to change my Alphacool radiators to EK Coolstream PE just to use the Aurora 2, lol.


----------



## Mayhem

that was a very limited coluor done a long time ago.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> So I decided to change my Alphacool radiators to EK Coolstream PE just to use the Aurora 2, lol.


Pics or it didn't happen.







I jest of course, seriously though pictures








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> that was a very limited coluor done a long time ago.


Would it still be within it's rated shelf life?

-Z


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Pics or it didn't happen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I jest of course, seriously though pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


I just ordered the radiators.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> I just ordered the radiators.


I meant pics of the Aurora in your loop.









-Z


----------



## FrancisJF

Wish I could but you gonna have to wait until these rads come.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> So I decided to change my Alphacool radiators to EK Coolstream PE just to use the Aurora 2, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics or it didn't happen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I jest of course, seriously though pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> that was a very limited coluor done a long time ago.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Would it still be within it's rated shelf life?
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

Yes it has a 3 year shelf life if stored in a cool dry environment and out of direct sunlight. Id Say its still good for another year.

Do not mix it with any other colour though and it must be used as is. We still have the dye in powder form for this colour but because it could not be used with any other colour we didn't make more of it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know it's been said but what is the run time on mayhems Pastel in a loop? does it need to be changed out every 9 months to a year? debating on switching from my Distilled + Mayhems dye to Pastel to get Gigabyte orange to match my mobo.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know it's been said but what is the run time on mayhems Pastel in a loop? does it need to be changed out every 9 months to a year? debating on switching from my Distilled + Mayhems dye to Pastel to get Gigabyte orange to match my mobo.


Pastel is 2-3 year in system life...

which my systems get rebuilt in that time so it is a one fill and done fluid for me


----------



## cyphon

@Mayhem, want to give you guys props on the blitz system, as I've finished my first run with it was pretty awesome seeing part 2 come out with all the tiny debris from acrylic tubing and rad particles. Also cleaned out some red dye that was stuck in my gpu blocks that I was unable to scrub out.

Happy customer. Recommend to all


----------



## Mayhem

cyphon is correct, its 2 to 3 years in most systems. I would recommend you still clean your system out yearly just put the coolant thought a coffee filter and re introduce it into the system once you flushed through with water, that way you system is always running in tip top condition.

@cyphon thks for that do i pay you now or later lol .....


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> cyphon is correct, its 2 to 3 years in most systems. I would recommend you still clean your system out yearly just put the coolant thought a coffee filter and re introduce it into the system once you flushed through with water, that way you system is always running in tip top condition.
> 
> @cyphon thks for that do i pay you now or later lol .....


You know, whenever, lol


----------



## ozzy1925

i want to blitz my radiators but can i use blitz part 2 after part 1 without installing the radiators in the loop?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i want to blitz my radiators but can i use blitz part 2 after part 1 without installing the radiators in the loop?


You will want part 2 to run the whole loop. It preps the whole system...as I said in my previous post, it does a great job at more than just moving the part 1 deposits out. I had small bits of acrylic that were in there from fitting the acrylic in my loop....those are out. Had some dye from testing with a GPU that I couldn't get out, it got it out. Anything that happened to fall in when assembling, it will get out.

You absolutely should put your rads in first and run part 2 through the whole loop.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You will want part 2 to run the whole loop. It preps the whole system...as I said in my previous post, it does a great job at more than just moving the part 1 deposits out. I had small bits of acrylic that were in there from fitting the acrylic in my loop....those are out. Had some dye from testing with a GPU that I couldn't get out, it got it out. Anything that happened to fall in when assembling, it will get out.
> 
> You absolutely should put your rads in first and run part 2 through the whole loop.


i am still missing my cpu ,gpu and motherboard block and it will take some more time to get all of them ready, but i want my radiators ready now.Should i just blitz part 1 them now and use part 2 lets say 1-1.5months later?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am still missing my cpu ,gpu and motherboard block and it will take some more time to get all of them ready, but i want my radiators ready now.Should i just blitz part 1 them now and use part 2 lets say 1-1.5months later?


I'd just wait to do it when you get all your stuff


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'd just wait to do it when you get all your stuff


alright then


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you system goes over 32c (inline temp) as quick as 7 days depending on the thickness of the wall of tubing. The thicker the wall of tubing between ID and OD the quicker it will leach and the more it will leach. Thinner walled tubing take s a little longer and there is less of it.


Does this mean I am in for trouble? I did some testing and saw the water temperatures climb to 35C in my new system. This is within 24hours of filling it up


----------



## Mayhem

No it doesn't mean trouble at all. Its just some thing to be wary of only. Keep an eye on temps and flow and see how it goes.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> Does this mean I am in for trouble? I did some testing and saw the water temperatures climb to 35C in my new system. This is within 24hours of filling it up


Only if you're using non Adv LRT soft tubing.


----------



## corysti




----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*


NZXT S340? Very nice, can you show us more pictures?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> cyphon is correct, its 2 to 3 years in most systems. I would recommend you still clean your system out yearly just put the coolant thought a coffee filter and re introduce it into the system once you flushed through with water, that way you system is always running in tip top condition.
> 
> @cyphon thks for that do i pay you now or later lol .....


ok yeah I knew that really the system is supposed to be cleaned/flushed yearly, but good to know the fluid/pastel is good for a span of 2-3years. So far I have yet to have my loop stay the same for a year either way, lol.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Went to drain my loop yesterday and found this.

Using Mayhems X1 for about 4-5months now. Tubing is just fine.

Any ideas?

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/unnamed_zpsbf739189.jpg.html

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/unnamed2_zps8038c298.jpg.html


----------



## Mayhem

found what ?


----------



## cyphon

Found what and which x1? Any dye?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> Went to drain my loop yesterday and found this.
> 
> Using Mayhems X1 for about 4-5months now. Tubing is just fine.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/unnamed_zpsbf739189.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/unnamed2_zps8038c298.jpg.html


What waterblock, specifically, were you using? How long have you had it? Last but not least please list any and all additives/coolants you've ever used with this block.


----------



## Mayhem

Looks to be a very old ek Block from the looks of the pin arrangement.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Looks to be a very old ek Block from the looks of the pin arrangement.


Hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like it's a nickle plated block, or rather was a nickle plated block. I wonder if the block was ordered prior to EK fixing their surface preparation for their plated blocks. We'll just have to wait for the OP for more details, there's no point speculating without more info.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Its not that old, an FC Titan SE I would guess. Its always hard to tell from pics like these but I would bet most of what is there is simply copper sulphate staining.

Edit: FC 770 ... but about the same age .


----------



## Deepsouth1987

EK Nickel GTX 770 with black backplate. Coolant about 5 months old. Only used Mayhems coolant with this block. Got it brand new not second hand off EKWB website. I checked the CPU RAM and motherboard blocks last night and nothing is showing up like this video card block is. I used all mayhem products using Mayhems Ultra pure h20 and Biocide extreme.

Edit: Cleaned it last night but by the looks of it does seem to be the nickel coming off.


----------



## akira749

Why use Biocide Extreme if you were using X1?


----------



## FrancisJF

New radiators coming tomorrow, someone mentioned that Blitz is recommended use for Alphacool and other radiators. I am wondering if EK Coolstream PE is part of it too?


----------



## VSG

Not from my experience, I'd do a flush with water and see how the effluent looks.


----------



## dgraham1284

I have an alphacool ut60. Distilled water and vinegar. No issues with pastel coolant


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> New radiators coming tomorrow, someone mentioned that Blitz is recommended use for Alphacool and other radiators. I am wondering if EK Coolstream PE is part of it too?


All my PE rads have always been extremely clean right out of the box. So a simple flush with water to extract the small junk a few times and it's good to go!


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> All my PE rads have always been extremely clean right out of the box. So a simple flush with water to extract the small junk a few times and it's good to go!


Thanks akira! +rep for helping.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> EK Nickel GTX 770 with black backplate. Coolant about 5 months old. Only used Mayhems coolant with this block. Got it brand new not second hand off EKWB website. I checked the CPU RAM and motherboard blocks last night and nothing is showing up like this video card block is. I used all mayhem products using Mayhems Ultra pure h20 and Biocide extreme.
> 
> Edit: Cleaned it last night but by the looks of it does seem to be the nickel coming off.


How much Biocide Extreme did you use? Biocide extreme, i.e. copper sulphate, will drop your pH. Did you test pH before and after adding CuSo4? And did you use the CuSo4 with x1 (which you shouldn't have done) Too low of a pH will accelerate corrosion, sometimes to very extensive amounts. EK nickle plating is only 15microns thick, and VERY porous.


----------



## Nichismo

dang, you must have used a ton of Biocide. I had the exact same blocks but plexi, and I was using distilled water, and it only took 2 drops of dead-water and my blocks got very brown and dirty. It all cleaned up easily though, i imagine yours would too


----------



## Mayhem

News is Rads will land next week. How ever we will be testing and checking all rads and re boxing them in double boxs and adding Blitz Part 2 and fan gills so it will take another week at least before we can release them to the public.



This is a demo rad cover but the ones in the rads will be black.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> News is Rads will land next week. How ever we will be testing and checking all rads and re boxing them in double boxs and adding Blitz Part 2 and fan gills so it will take another week at least before we can release them to the public.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a demo rad cover but the ones in the rads will be black.


Are the grills made of acrylic? It would be a handy feature if they had little decoupling pads where they mount, making them a double whammy: Both shiny and functional.


----------



## Mayhem

You mean like a rubber grommet.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You mean like a rubber grommet.


Or something like that, Phanteks uses rubber pads, which seat a little easier than most solutions currently on the market.



Just a thought, a friend recently had a nasty issue with vibration on a fan I gave him.


----------



## Mayhem

tbh most people can just by a rubber washer and add them. the cost of adding things like that to these would go beyond it being a free give away product.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah, maybe on the next run or something. These rads have the potential to sell like hotcakes.

Will they be on your website or EK/EU only, are there any US retailers that will have them available on launch?

EDIT: Just read the OP. I'm interested in a 240mm.


----------



## Mayhem

The first 60 rads come with the "Limited Edition Mayhems Tech" Rad grill and Blitz mini kit will only be sold via Mayhems web site. **** Depending on how sales go will depend on how we move forward.

We will be selling the fan grills though our site separately but they will not have the logo on them.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> How much Biocide Extreme did you use? Biocide extreme, i.e. copper sulphate, will drop your pH. Did you test pH before and after adding CuSo4? And did you use the CuSo4 with x1 (which you shouldn't have done) Too low of a pH will accelerate corrosion, sometimes to very extensive amounts. EK nickle plating is only 15microns thick, and VERY porous.


To be honest it was a fresh loop and didn't have to use but maybe 2 drops at most. I have been checking my PH level throughout each month always showed up light green on the paper.


----------



## freitz

Here is an odd question.

Mayhem Pastel White turned Bluish Green.

Using Alphacool UT60 Rad's. This is the second time this has happened. Tore down and flushed everything 6 months ago. Any ideas?


----------



## VSG

The usual question with those rads- how did you clean them exactly?


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The usual question with those rads- how did you clean them exactly?


Distilled water flushed through the system. Actually ran the system with distilled the second cleaning for 24 hours.


----------



## Mayhem

Its the rads thats the problem not the fluid. How ever if you use blitz it should clean them. Please complain to Alphacool and let them know. The more of you that complain eventually they may fix the issue.

for the fix

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOR7SFYbcZ8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_IBHnUc3PM


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its the rads thats the problem not the fluid. How ever if you use blitz it should clean them. Please complain to Alphacool and let them know the more of you that complain eventually they may fix the issue.


So I need to tear down and use the blitz? or can I run the blitz while the system is together?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> So I need to tear down and use the blitz? or can I run the blitz while the system is together?


Part 1 is for the rads only, so you would really want to tear it down for a full cleanup. Well worth the time and money I would say, if it means having no issues later on.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Part 1 is for the rads only, so you would really want to tear it down for a full cleanup. Well worth the time and money I would say, if it means having no issues later on.


Also cheaper if I don't need to buy new rads.


----------



## VSG

Yup


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yup


i'd just go for the pro kit. Just don't feel like doing a tear down right now lol.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> i'd just go for the pro kit. Just don't feel like doing a tear down right now lol.


The Pro kit is the one where you have to do the tear down. The Basic is for the entire loop only, and may well do nothing for those rads.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The Pro kit is the one where you have to do the tear down. The Basic is for the entire loop only, and may well do nothing for those rads.


I thought the pro kit includes everything. I have to tear down the loop regardless because even with drain port there will be left over items in the loop/ old coolant.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I thought the pro kit includes everything. I have to tear down the loop regardless because even with drain port there will be left over items in the loop/ old coolant.


It does, I should have been clearer. The Basic kit has just the general cleaning Part 2 solution for the entire loop while the Pro has it and the rad only Part 1 solution as well. The Pro also comes with a pH meter with buffer solution as opposed to pH test paper strips in the Basic kit.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It does, I should have been clearer. The Basic kit has just the general cleaning Part 2 solution for the entire loop while the Pro has it and the rad only Part 1 solution as well. The Pro also comes with a pH meter with buffer solution as opposed to pH test paper strips in the Basic kit.


There isn't a solution that I could use without tearing down the loop?


----------



## VSG

Not if you really want to clean the rads out, which is the whole point of this for you.


----------



## Mayhem

Well you can try what ever you like to be honest, how ever i have no doubts you'll be back later on with the same issues







if you don't use the kit.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Well you can try what ever you like to be honest, how ever i have no doubts you'll be back later on with the same issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you don't use the kit.


I was going to buy the kit regardless. Just being lazy and don't want to tear my loop apart but it is what it is.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I was going to buy the kit regardless. Just being lazy and don't want to tear my loop apart but it is what it is.


Right, but part 1 is an acid wash and you don't want that anywhere near your blocks, pump, reservoir etc- just for the rads.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Right, but part 1 is an acid wash and you don't want that anywhere near your blocks, pump, reservoir etc- just for the rads.


Thanks that is all I needed to know. I will make sure it just touches the rads. I ordered the pro kit.


----------



## VSG

Hopefully it helps out with the rads and solves the Pastel discoloring issue.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully it helps out with the rads and solves the Pastel discoloring issue.


If it doesn't Im going to throw these out the window and buy new rads, and alpha cool would lose another customer. Great performance but Im tired of my coolant changing colors.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully it helps out with the rads and solves the Pastel discoloring issue.


Mayhem said it would work. I trust him.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Is Mayhem's Blitz Part 1 available just by itself anywhere except for through Mayhem's site or if not any chance it will be any time soon? I looked around a bit but didn't see just the Part 1 at PPCs or FCPU (yet).


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Is Mayhem's Blitz Part 1 available just by itself anywhere except for through Mayhem's site or if not any chance it will be any time soon? I looked around a bit but didn't see just the Part 1 at PPCs or FCPU (yet).


I think just his website. Im just going for the full kit at this point.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Is Mayhem's Blitz Part 1 available just by itself anywhere except for through Mayhem's site or if not any chance it will be any time soon? I looked around a bit but didn't see just the Part 1 at PPCs or FCPU (yet).
> 
> 
> 
> I think just his website. Im just going for the full kit at this point.
Click to expand...

Yeah but I already have the full kit but I have four 480 monstas and two 240 monstas going in the latest loop I'm working on. I suspect the one 'Blitz Part 1' isn't going to be enough to clean all the rads before I add them to this loop. It'd sure be nice to be able to buy more of the Blitz Part 1 by itself instead of another entire Pro kit all of which I do not need, but having to order from the UK won't save me all that much and will take a prohibitive amount of time to get here. Yuk.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Is Mayhem's Blitz Part 1 available just by itself anywhere except for through Mayhem's site or if not any chance it will be any time soon? I looked around a bit but didn't see just the Part 1 at PPCs or FCPU (yet).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah but I already have the full kit but I have four 480 monstas and two 240 monstas going in the latest loop I'm working on. I suspect the one 'Blitz Part 1' isn't going to be enough to clean all the rads before I add them to this loop. It'd sure be nice to be able to buy more of the Blitz Part 1 by itself instead of another entire Pro kit all of which I do not need, but having to order from the UK won't save me all that much and will take a prohibitive amount of time to get here. Yuk.


I do not think you'd be able to order it from the UK either because it is a different formula over there than the US because US Customs denied (this, assuming you're in the US).

I don't remember why he couldn't offer part 1 on its own (with safety kit), but I imagine by the time you priced that up, packaged it, and everything, it would be pretty darn close to the price of the whole kit. I think he has to include the safety equipment for liability reasons. I do think it would be nice if the portions of the part 1 and part 2 were equal, say 2L. That way you at least do not end up with a ton of extra part 2.


----------



## Mayhem

Its all down to USA customs, EU laws and responsibility of us to our users. It was not easy getting these kits over to the USA and also making sure it still works ;/. trust me when i say we exhausted every avenue to bring the kits to the USA. No stone was left upturned. We allso have to protect our self's as well because if you read some of the emails we get every day you would simply freak at how stupid some people are.

The blitz kits were not made just because we needed to make money (we have enough) they were made because we needed to address another manufacturers issues and also bring some thing to the market that wasn't there and was needed.
.


----------



## Nichismo

I love the pre mixed Pastels









I wish I knew about this stuff long time ago....

question... I never flushed my rads when I made this loop. They were both brand new, but I know there can still be a good amount of gunk in them. Should I go through the trouble now?


----------



## emsj86

just finished blue blurry what do you think


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> To be honest it was a fresh loop and didn't have to use but maybe 2 drops at most. I have been checking my PH level throughout each month always showed up light green on the paper.


Try to use ketchup to clean up the blocks. Unless you got a bad waterblock there's no way it ate through the nickle. I'll second @Jakusonfire's theory on this one.

-Z


----------



## sprower

I'm considering some fine Mayhems pastel but I'm looking for something much deeper green than what I've seen. Suggestions?

I assume one can mix dyes to get just the right color?


----------



## VSG

Yup, what kind of deeper green did you have in mind? A picture or HTML color code would be great.


----------



## Mayhem

For deeper green just add blue dye (Slowly) its that simple.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yup, what kind of deeper green did you have in mind? A picture or HTML color code would be great.


I'm thinking about going for something close to a forest green.

Darker than the right side... maybe not as dark as the left. I basically looking for a nice canopy for my tree desk.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> For deeper green just add blue dye (Slowly) its that simple.


Thanks Mayhem!


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yup, what kind of deeper green did you have in mind? A picture or HTML color code would be great.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about going for something close to a forest green.
> 
> Darker than the right side... maybe not as dark as the left. I basically looking for a nice canopy for my tree desk.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> For deeper green just add blue dye (Slowly) its that simple.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks Mayhem!
Click to expand...

Yup from them pics just add blue that will do the trick but please add only a tiny amount at a time.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yup from them pics just add blue that will do the trick but please *add only a tiny amount at a time*.


Check! Thanks again.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Here's some Aurora 2 mixed with X1 Oil Black concentrate:


----------



## Mayhem

yay now your the first person to do this (apart from us a while Back) but its shows what you can do if you play.







Well done and brill result.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Here's some Aurora 2 mixed with X1 Oil Black concentrate:


Oh, nu-uh! I've seen enough Terminator to know where this is going. Quickly, throw it in a pot of molten iron before it gains sentience!

-Z


----------



## FrancisJF

So I got Mayhems Aurora 2 Red Concentrate with Primochill Advanced LRT Clear, what scares me is the plasticizer on the tubing from researching it but all I know that it will become yellow overtime. So did anybody got plasticizer in the tubing lately here?


----------



## Mayhem

You do not get Primochill Advanced LRT Clear, leaching from Primochill Advance LRT. You used to get it from Primochill LRT Clear and cheap brands of tubing.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You do not get Primochill Advanced LRT Clear, leaching from Primochill Advance LRT. You used to get it from *Primochill LRT Clear* and cheap brands of tubing.


To be more specific Mick, it was Primochill *Pro* LRT that had the leeching problems. Primochill Advance LRT is the non-leeching tubing







.


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You do not get Primochill Advanced LRT Clear, leaching from Primochill Advance LRT. You used to get it from Primochill LRT Clear and cheap brands of tubing.


Darn, was hoping that Primochill tubing would be good. But good thing I ordered rigid tubing, fittings and rigid kit.


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> To be more specific Mick, it was Primochill *Pro* LRT that had the leeching problems. Primochill Advance LRT is the non-leeching tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


So the Advance LRT is good for Concentrate coolant?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> So the Advance LRT is good for Concentrate coolant?


Primochill Pro LRT, the old primochill tubing, had plasticizers issues. Primochill advanced LRT has no DEHP plasticizers, and does not leach those devil spawn into your loop. It can develop a light yellowish-brown tint over periods of time, varying depending on coolant temps, tubing ID x OD, and other factors. Hope that clears things up.

-Z


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Primochill Pro LRT, the old primochill tubing, had plasticizers issues. Primochill advanced LRT has no DEHP plasticizers, and does not leach those devil spawn into your loop. It can develop a light yellowish-brown tint over periods of time, varying depending on coolant temps, tubing ID x OD, and other factors. Hope that clears things up.
> 
> -Z


Thanks Z! I'm just gonna say screw it, lol. Just gonna wait for my rigid stuff comes....


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Thanks Z! I'm just gonna say screw it, lol. Just gonna wait for my rigid stuff comes....


You have the advance you are good to go with it. It won't leach.


----------



## Mayhem

Aurora 2 Booster in gold and silver 10ml. There is enough to do upwards of 2 ltrs+ depending on how much you would like to use.. We do not recommend more than 5ml per 1 Ltr (2.5ml is enough).



For gold to be effective we recommend using a dark colour if you use a light colour it will be literally white gold and the same goes for silver.

These do not contain biocides nor do they contain inhibitors. You can use them with X1, Pastel, XT1, Aurora and Dyes. They are a "SHORT TERM EFFECT NANO PIGMENT" and can be used to boost aurora if needs be.

Mick


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Aurora 2 Booster in gold and silver 10ml. There is enough to do upwards of 2 ltrs+ depending on how much you would like to use.. We do not recommend more than 5ml per 1 Ltr (2.5ml is enough).
> 
> 
> 
> For gold to be effective we recommend using a dark colour if you use a light colour it will be literally white gold and the same goes for silver.
> 
> These do not contain biocides nor do they contain inhibitors. You can use them with X1, Pastel, XT1, Aurora and Dyes. *They are a "SHORT TERM EFFECT NANO PIGMENT" and can be used to boost aurora if needs be.
> *
> Mick


Now is that "Short term effect nano pigment" in same way that Aurora is a short term show effect, or is it a short term effect regardless of the loop it's in.
-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Same as aurora. Its the nano base we make for aurora and what we've been giving to people for a bit who wished for more effect.


----------



## stickg1

That's a good idea Mick. I'd probably try that out in my "Purple Koolaid" XT1 just for fun and pictures.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Aurora 2 Booster in gold and silver 10ml. There is enough to do upwards of 2 ltrs+ depending on how much you would like to use.. We do not recommend more than 5ml per 1 Ltr (2.5ml is enough).
> 
> 
> 
> For gold to be effective we recommend using a dark colour if you use a light colour it will be literally white gold and the same goes for silver.
> 
> These do not contain biocides nor do they contain inhibitors. You can use them with X1, Pastel, XT1, Aurora and Dyes. They are a "SHORT TERM EFFECT NANO PIGMENT" and can be used to boost aurora if needs be.
> 
> Mick












When will these babies be available?


----------



## Mayhem

They will be available this week. Just need to make some photos and so other bits and bobs


----------



## VSG

Any idea if US customs will throw a fit again?


----------



## emsj86

So what can be mixed with blue pastel any cool colors ?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Any idea if US customs will throw a fit again?


That is a good question, ive got to do the SDS sheets tomorrow and work out all the details cos it quite potent stuff How ever i don't think it will have any issues passing customs. Were still working on the ζ-potential but we will get there in the end







.

@emsj86 Mix as you whish


----------



## VSG

If you have functionalized Au/Ag nanoparticles with enough of a surface charge and in over 0.1-0.2M concentration, good luck getting proper zeta potential numbers. We have one of the best zeta potential/DLS instruments in the world here and even it gets the electrode coated real quick with ionic strengths > 0.2M.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh we don't have a measuring system yet we have had to use the once over at ICI. I'm saving up for a system so eventually we can use it to help and also maintain consistency. Mind you this is all easy stuff according to some people hahaha. Btw the electrode can just be washed in good di and reused once they get coated.


----------



## VSG

If you want, I can try to get some numbers for you as well. It's a lab instrument so I can use it all I want for free. Least I can do for the Blitz Basic kit you had sent over.


----------



## Mayhem

Ill chat to partner next few days and get back to you on PMs.


----------



## VSG

Sure thing


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Here's some Aurora 2 mixed with X1 Oil Black concentrate:


Love it!

Giving me ideas


----------



## DeviousAddict

That's cool, it looks like liquid metal. Shame it's only for short term use, would love to have that running constantly.


----------



## BioDefault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> That's cool, it looks like liquid metal. Shame it's only for short term use, would love to have that running constantly.


Well here's some good news:

You're only PARTIALLY wrong!

Aurora 2 is being made to run in home systems. So that means it won't run quite as long as normal stuff, but it WILL run longer than Aurora 1.


----------



## Cavey00

Unless you have a complex loop. That's still the catch. Otherwise I'd be using it too as I love the look of it. Oh well.


----------



## Mayhem

The rads have landed ... Picking them up tommoow


----------



## gdubc




----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The rads have landed ... Picking them up tommoow


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The rads have landed ... Picking them up tommoow


Excellent news there Mick









Nam...


----------



## Mayhem

all sixty rads are accounted for, we will be picking them up tomorrow and pressure testing them all. We will be double boxing them all and adding in the blitz part 2 kit. The fan grills haven't been finished due to the laser cutting deciding it didn't like to work hard and died :/. we have ordered a new power supply and laser for the system and if its hear on time we will be making them how ever if they are not here by the end of play next week we will have to sell the rads with out the grills.


----------



## VSG

What is it with laser cutters dying all the time? Both the ones at a local hobby place also gave up within a span of a week, as did the FrozenQ one and now yours.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What is it with laser cutters dying all the time? Both the ones at a local hobby place also gave up within a span of a week, as did the FrozenQ one and now yours.


Think they have to be calibrated just right or else they suicide


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What is it with laser cutters dying all the time? Both the ones at a local hobby place also gave up within a span of a week, as did the FrozenQ one and now yours.
> 
> 
> 
> Think they have to be calibrated just right or else they suicide
Click to expand...

This ... I dunno might be the cheap Chinese tube lasers. Ive checked up the prices of the UK version all though 100x more expensive i think it will be the way to go. Mayhems Tech is doing all our work and we have CNC and laser.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Aurora 2 Booster in gold and silver 10ml. There is enough to do upwards of 2 ltrs+ depending on how much you would like to use.. We do not recommend more than 5ml per 1 Ltr (2.5ml is enough).
> 
> 
> 
> For gold to be effective we recommend using a dark colour if you use a light colour it will be literally white gold and the same goes for silver.
> 
> These do not contain biocides nor do they contain inhibitors. You can use them with X1, Pastel, XT1, Aurora and Dyes. They are a "SHORT TERM EFFECT NANO PIGMENT" and can be used to boost aurora if needs be.
> 
> Mick


Happy to see this brought to market. Why do you only recommend using 5ml per Ltr. Is there a such thing as TOO much effect? In your opinion would this give Aurora a little better life in a loop that is a little more complex? I would kill to be able to use Aurora without having to sacrifice cooling capacity by having to use slim profile rads.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgraham1284*
> 
> I have an alphacool ut60. Distilled water and vinegar. No issues with pastel coolant


My red pastel in the UT60-280 and XT45-420 was fine for 2 months .... then added 30ml of Mayhems red dye ...2 months later..... rads were flushed with vinegar water and bicarb solutions several times followed by alternating 5 gpm flushes of hot / cold tap water for 2 hours, followed by 3 flushes with DW and thena week on pure DW. About 3 months after adding the dye, as weather got warmer, color started to darken, now 11 months after build was done .... coolant is literally jet black.....will be doing teardown and blitz over thanksgiving weekend. In short, the vinegar isn't going to cut it.


----------



## BenjaminBenj

Evening Everyone,

Question for those experienced Mayhems Aurora 2 customers out there:

--> I'm purchasing Mayhems Aurora 2 Coolant Premix - Galaxy Purple tonight. Has anyone ever added Mayhems Clear UV fluid to this before? I'm wondering how well the two blend....

Thanks!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenjaminBenj*
> 
> Evening Everyone,
> 
> Question for those experienced Mayhems Aurora 2 customers out there:
> 
> --> I'm purchasing Mayhems Aurora 2 Coolant Premix - Galaxy Purple tonight. Has anyone ever added Mayhems Clear UV fluid to this before? I'm wondering how well the two blend....
> 
> Thanks!


Some have experimented with UV and Aurora, however, I think it is kind of counter productive....UV Absorbs light, Aurora Reflects light...see why I think so? If you do it, I think the particles end up being more like shadows instead of shiny bits.


----------



## BenjaminBenj

Ah.... I see your point Cyphon. *nods*. From your experience and observation, what color LED lighting reflects the colors of Aurora best?

Thanks for the help.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I don't really dig (yeah I'm old) any interior case lighting other than white ..... to my mind the purpose of the lighting is to highlight the components and workmanship, the visual impact of which is hampered by colored lighting and UV.


----------



## BenjaminBenj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I don't really dig (yeah I'm old) any interior case lighting other than white ..... to my mind the purpose of the lighting is to highlight the components and workmanship, the visual impact of which is hampered by colored lighting and UV.


Hi Jack,

I happen to agree with you *nods*... one of the reasons I'm looking into a new fluid type. I'd like to light the case with a nice clean white lighting to show off the gorgeous blocks, sleeving, etc. The UV is getting old for me. I just wasn't sure if there's an "optimal" light color for Aurora if you know what I mean.

Order going in now!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenjaminBenj*
> 
> Ah.... I see your point Cyphon. *nods*. From your experience and observation, what color LED lighting reflects the colors of Aurora best?
> 
> Thanks for the help.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I don't really dig (yeah I'm old) any interior case lighting other than white ..... to my mind the purpose of the lighting is to highlight the components and workmanship, the visual impact of which is hampered by colored lighting and UV.


I agree with ya jack. For bout 98% of things, white light is best







, imho. For aurora, go white for sure


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenjaminBenj*
> 
> Ah.... I see your point Cyphon. *nods*. From your experience and observation, what color LED lighting reflects the colors of Aurora best?
> 
> Thanks for the help.


You definitely need white light shining on the res to be able to see the aurora effect at night. My case is full of blue lights and they just dont do the trick. Im working on some kind of spotlight that i can shine on the res when its dark.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenjaminBenj*
> 
> Evening Everyone,
> 
> Question for those experienced Mayhems Aurora 2 customers out there:
> 
> --> I'm purchasing Mayhems Aurora 2 Coolant Premix - Galaxy Purple tonight. Has anyone ever added Mayhems Clear UV fluid to this before? I'm wondering how well the two blend....
> 
> Thanks!


Clear/UV Blue will outshine anything, so if you want the coolant to glow blue, with little to no Aurora effect, at a specific part of the loop like a waterblock you could get some interesting effects, but it will also near completely mask the aurora and the purple color of that area. As cyphon said, typically UV and Aurora don't mix easily; note how I say easily, it's possible with specific color combinations but typically it's not advised due to the complexity of trying to make such a mixture.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenjaminBenj*
> 
> Ah.... I see your point Cyphon. *nods*. From your experience and observation, what color LED lighting reflects the colors of Aurora best?
> 
> Thanks for the help.


For Aurora, as others have said, just use white light.

-Z


----------



## BenjaminBenj

Awesome, thanks for the feedback everyone! This community simply rocks







always responsive and thoughtful.

Might have to place an order for a white LED strip... likely cut a few slices for different positions. I'd like my 5.25 bay res. to shine at night... I can shine from top and bottom, likely will need something in the rear as well.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenjaminBenj*
> 
> Awesome, thanks for the feedback everyone! This community simply rocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> always responsive and thoughtful.
> 
> Might have to place an order for a white LED strip... likely cut a few slices for different positions. I'd like my 5.25 bay res. to shine at night... I can shine from top and bottom, likely will need something in the rear as well.


Aurora doesn't work well with bay reservoirs, too many deadzones so the particles fall out of suspension.

-Z


----------



## hiarc

Anyone have any experience trying to create a dark blue?

Is it just as simple as starting with blue berry pastel as a base and just adding blue dye, or is there a better way to approach this?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Anyone have any experience trying to create a dark blue?
> 
> Is it just as simple as starting with blue berry pastel as a base and just adding blue dye, or is there a better way to approach this?


That will work. It will take a serious amount of dye though.


----------



## hiarc

Dunno if that sounds normal or bad.









I will continue to see what I can find, I might just go with Black Pastel.

Thanks for the reply, lowfat.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Aurora doesn't work well with bay reservoirs, too many deadzones so the particles fall out of suspension.
> 
> -Z


This
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Anyone have any experience trying to create a dark blue?
> 
> Is it just as simple as starting with blue berry pastel as a base and just adding blue dye, or is there a better way to approach this?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> That will work. It will take a serious amount of dye though.


This as well. You can also put in a touch of red to help darken faster...too much gets ya purple obviously


----------



## hiarc

Ah yes good old red, I suck at color wheel. Thank you for the added advice.


----------



## Methodz

Hi all,
this is my new sistem. I've used mayhems pastel mint green with some ticks of blue dye.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodz*
> 
> Hi all,
> this is my new sistem. I've used mayhems pastel mint green with some ticks of blue dye.


Needs more Tiberium, me thinks. Nice build









-Z


----------



## Mayhem

First image of them all together.

*Mayhems Havoc 480*


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Havoc 360


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Havoc 240


----------



## Mayhem

The first 60 rads come with a Blitz Basic Kit (small version) and a respective fan grill (240, 360, 480) if there done on time.


----------



## VSG

Oh those grills look good. I wasn't sure how it would translate from the blue to black but now I am convinced.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Mick, any chance you could PM me the price of the 240? Since your website says to contact y'all about pricing for the radiators.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The first 60 rads come with a Blitz Basic Kit (small version)


Can we assume they come so ultraclean that we don't use the Pro kit on these?


----------



## Mayhem

The part 2 kit is all you need. you still need to clean it but you don't need the pro kit..


----------



## madmalkav

Cool. Waiting for the prices


----------



## fakeblood

@Mayhem
Hi Mick, how likely is it that the nano particles may fall out of suspension with my pump res in/out setup like this?

Can I have the res on top keep the pump filled, while using the pump top for in and out? So the return run will be direct to the pump rather than to the res?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

If not in a rush, I bought my LED lighting off Amazon ..... was ridiculously priced and included shipping.....came direct from China ... $11.50 included shipping ... took 11 days to get here tho

5 Meter Black 3528 SMD White 300 LEDs http://www.amazon.com/LED-Outlets-Meter-Black-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00E9N7SX6


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> If not in a rush, I bought my LED lighting off Amazon ..... was ridiculously priced and included shipping.....came direct from China ... $11.50 included shipping ... took 11 days to get here tho
> 
> 5 Meter Black 3528 SMD White 300 LEDs http://www.amazon.com/LED-Outlets-Meter-Black-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00E9N7SX6


Yeah they are great for lighting. We have a thread about it Here

@Fakeblood I would about guarantee the particles will fall out of suspension in the reservoir. As the fluid inside it will not be moving.


----------



## BenjaminBenj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Yeah they are great for lighting. We have a thread about it Here
> 
> @Fakeblood I would about guarantee the particles will fall out of suspension in the reservoir. As the fluid inside it will not be moving.


Hey there Fakeblood,

With regard to the suspension of particles in the reservoir, what if I had two paths for outflow... perhaps experience better fluid movement this way? I haven't tried it yet, but the new liquid is coming!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenjaminBenj*
> 
> Hey there Fakeblood,
> 
> With regard to the suspension of particles in the reservoir, what if I had two paths for outflow... perhaps experience better fluid movement this way? I haven't tried it yet, but the new liquid is coming!


You want it to intake into the reservoir and outtake from the pump, otherwise the reservoir is stagnant.

-Z


----------



## BenjaminBenj

Hey there Z.,

Right, I'm thinking what if I have two splitters going into the pump intake? E.g. Split two feeds out of the res. directly as one line. Think way I'll pull from different areas of the res. at the same time. *Shrugs*. Mix up the solution a bit more perhaps...


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenjaminBenj*
> 
> Hey there Z.,
> 
> Right, I'm thinking what if I have two splitters going into the pump intake? E.g. Split two feeds out of the res. directly as one line. Think way I'll pull from different areas of the res. at the same time. *Shrugs*. Mix up the solution a bit more perhaps...


Well, the problem right now is it intakes into the impellers center, and outtakes out from the impeller. The reservoir, on that specific pump top, lays ontop of the impellers center, so there's no coolant actually going back into the reservoir... The res just adds more liquid when the coolant evaps. You see where the issue is? You need coolant flow into, AND out of the res so the coolant isn't stagnant. If there's a way you can route it to intake coolant at the top of the res, that would allow it to mix up, and what not.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Ah that sounds like the aquacomputer pumps / reservoirs were they are only there to add small amount of water and have no flow in them what so ever.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ah that sounds like the aquacomputer pumps / reservoirs were they are only there to add small amount of water and have no flow in them what so ever.


Hi, I have just been having a yak about this very topic of no res flow, I only found out recently after having bought the XSPC Photon D5 270 Res/Pump combo ,that the damn thing does not cycle water very much at all...damn !
What do you guys have to say about this pump and this issue, any feedback appreciated thanks.
And if I decide not to use it, what is the best pump, I still like the large res for aesthetics reasons.
I'd like to be able to mod the one I have if possible ? I'm going to have a look at it, without inlet at top idea ,id rater a new pump and res than do that.

hope this not too off topic, but seems a good place to get feedback from experts, thanks in advance.







.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Hi, I have just been having a yak about this very topic of no res flow, I only found out recently after having bought the XSPC Photon D5 270 Res/Pump combo ,that the damn thing does not cycle water very much at all...damn !
> What do you guys have to say about this pump and this issue, any feedback appreciated thanks.
> And if I decide not to use it, what is the best pump, I still like the large res for aesthetics reasons.
> I'd like to be able to mod the one I have if possible ? I'm going to have a look at it, without inlet at top idea ,id rater a new pump and res than do that.
> 
> hope this not too off topic, but seems a good place to get feedback from experts, thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


No reservoir flow isn't an issue unless you're using a nanofluid, eg. pastel, aurora, etc. If you can get a normal photon res bottom from XSPC you should be able to swap em out, and from the looks of it seems that would give you adequate turbulence in the res for nanofluids. Again, unless you're using aurora or pastel I wouldn't bother with all that, as there's no issue/benefit of having turbulence with a standard dyed coolant assuming you mix before filling.

-Z


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> No reservoir flow isn't an issue unless you're using a nanofluid, eg. pastel, aurora, etc. If you can get a normal photon res bottom from XSPC you should be able to swap em out, and from the looks of it seems that would give you adequate turbulence in the res for nanofluids. Again, unless you're using aurora or pastel I wouldn't bother with all that, as there's no issue/benefit of having turbulence with a standard dyed coolant assuming you mix before filling.
> 
> -Z


OK thanks, I was just concerned that there is, from what I hear ,almost no cycling of fluid, and I'd like there to be enough that it is cycled quite quickly and that the 270 res is not just a big bottle of water that sits on top of the loop and does nothing but be a big bottle of water lol , and that it contributes some to the flow of the fluid in the loop.

I know a res has no effect on cooling ,but id still like a larger volume of water contributing to my loop at all times .

Once again do you think that this is just not an issue ?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> OK thanks, I was just concerned that there is, from what I hear ,almost no cycling of fluid, and I'd like there to be enough that it is cycled quite quickly and that the 270 res is not just a big bottle of water that sits on top of the loop and does nothing but be a big bottle of water lol , and that it contributes some to the flow of the fluid in the loop.
> 
> I know a res has no effect on cooling ,but id still like a larger volume of water contributing to my loop at all times .
> 
> Once again do you think that this is just not an issue ?


The only reason you want large reservoirs of coolant is if you have a chiller for bench testing, because it allows you to cool the loop to REALLY low temperatures. For a standard loop increasing the heat capacity of your loop isn't going to do much. Unless you have GALLONS of coolant your loop will reach equilibrium pretty quickly, maybe a couple minutes for a huge loop. You won't get any better cooling, or stability from more coolant in a loop. So yeah, I wouldn't worry about it.

-Z


----------



## Bertovzki

OK thanks Z


----------



## Mayhem

For thouse who wish to know the pricing for the rads we released the pricing informaction to http://www.eteknix.com/mayhems-release-new-havoc-radiators/. Enjoy.


----------



## Mayhem

updated photo


----------



## Barefooter

Those fan grills are awesome!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenjaminBenj*
> 
> Hey there Fakeblood,
> 
> With regard to the suspension of particles in the reservoir, what if I had two paths for outflow... perhaps experience better fluid movement this way? I haven't tried it yet, but the new liquid is coming!


If ya come in from the top and out from the bottom, **on a normal res** I wouldn't worry about settlement..... this guy was worried after a 5 week vacation with Aurora 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7eboct_ckQ

But where there is no actual flow thru the res and it acts basically as a fill / bleeder valve, then while the system fluid would be fine, the res will be w/o the sediment.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> I know a res has no effect on cooling ,but id still like a larger volume of water contributing to my loop at all times .


Not totally true .... your radiators eliminate about 60% of the heat generated by ya PC so the rest is getting taken care of thru thermal radiation.... Your rad shrouds for example do this, as does the block surfaces, tubing, reservoir etc. just like you lose heat thru windows in a house. But yes, it is very small in comparison.

The other value to a large reservoir is in thermal mass....if your loads are cyclical..... when the system is under peak loads, the larger mass will take that much longer to get to its equilibrium point ... so if the load tails off, going up and down it never quite gets there. If ya ever heard a small CLC's fans spin up and down in response to varying loads, this effect is significantly reduced with larger thermal mass. I have just under 2 liters and running Furmark it takes a good 20 minutes for the system to reach it's equilibium point.


----------



## BenjaminBenj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> If ya come in from the top and out from the bottom, **on a normal res** I wouldn't worry about settlement..... this guy was worried after a 5 week vacation with Aurora 1
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7eboct_ckQ
> 
> But where there is no actual flow thru the res and it acts basically as a fill / bleeder valve, then while the system fluid would be fine, the res will be w/o the sediment.


Thanks Jack, appreciate the additional insight here.



I feel like my my res. flow is quite strong... I don't suspect a big problem here, but we'll see over time. My workstation is one pretty much 365 days a year, day in day out.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> If ya come in from the top and out from the bottom, **on a normal res** I wouldn't worry about settlement..... this guy was worried after a 5 week vacation with Aurora 1
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7eboct_ckQ
> 
> But where there is no actual flow thru the res and it acts basically as a fill / bleeder valve, then while the system fluid would be fine, the res will be w/o the sediment.
> Not totally true .... your radiators eliminate about 60% of the heat generated by ya PC so the rest is getting taken care of thru thermal radiation.... Your rad shrouds for example do this, as does the block surfaces, tubing, reservoir etc. just like you lose heat thru windows in a house. But yes, it is very small in comparison.
> 
> The other value to a large reservoir is in thermal mass....if your loads are cyclical..... when the system is under peak loads, the larger mass will take that much longer to get to its equilibrium point ... so if the load tails off, going up and down it never quite gets there. If ya ever heard a small CLC's fans spin up and down in response to varying loads, this effect is significantly reduced with larger thermal mass. I have just under 2 liters and running Furmark it takes a good 20 minutes for the system to reach it's equilibium point.


Thank you for the feedback, and yes just confirms my suspicions and opinion,I did buy the res in the first place,one becuase it looks great to me, but also I liked the idea of a large res for your described reason, in theory if you had a large swiming pool ( pump power an work load aside ) just the theory of an enormous amount of water ,then it will not even need a rad or fans, so a large res with glass and cool fan intake air, flowing over and past it ,and the volume in the res , then this should help to disapate heat too and take longer to reach equilibrium, this was the theory I was going by.

So I'm not sure if I want to get another one, or not now,as I'd like to do it from the start,and I have patients to wait.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Thank you for the feedback, and yes just confirms my suspicions and opinion,I did buy the res in the first place,one becuase it looks great to me, but also I liked the idea of a large res for your described reason, *in theory if you had a large swiming pool* ( pump power an work load aside ) just the theory of an enormous amount of water ,then it will not even need a rad or fans, so a large res with glass and cool fan intake air, flowing over and past it ,and the volume in the res , then this should help to disapate heat too and take longer to reach equilibrium, this was the theory I was going by.
> 
> So I'm not sure if I want to get another one, or not now,as I'd like to do it from the start,and I have patients to wait.


If you had a swimming pool as a reservoir evap cooling from the wind would offer more cooling than standard heat radiation.







We can all dream of such things, right?

-Z


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Yeah .... thatz the ticket ! .... be back in a few days .... going out to buy heat exchanger ti bury in gravel of my aquarium

On the good side .... I can save energy by turning off aquarium heater

On the bad side .... if I OC too much, I cook the fish.

On the good side .... don't have to drive to Long John Silver's for dinner


----------



## BenjaminBenj

Quick question for Mayhem's and or community:

On Mayhem's website (http://www.mayhems.co.uk) I found under specialist coolants the Aurora range of liquids. Unfortunately I cannot seem to find the Aurora 2 product, though I see a few Aurora 2 listings on retail sites such as FrozenCPU. Is the Aurora 2 product officially released, and if so, what kind of system life span does it have?

Thanks!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Yes ... and "longer"







.... it's covered in detail maybe 70-80 pages back.


----------



## BenjaminBenj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Yes ... and "longer"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... it's covered in detail maybe 70-80 pages back.


*Winks*, awesome thank you Jack. Time to scan back... the search didn't pull anything up initially, so thought I'd ask.







Thanks for the help.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If you had a swimming pool as a reservoir evap cooling from the wind would offer more cooling than standard heat radiation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can all dream of such things, right?
> 
> -Z


Ha yeah great idea if you live in the far north or south


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenjaminBenj*
> 
> *Winks*, awesome thank you Jack. Time to scan back... the search didn't pull anything up initially, so thought I'd ask.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help.


My strategy was to get someone to feel bad for ya after me sending you on the hunt ... someone who ain't as old as me and has better memory









I did do some looking and it seems that the places selling it are still pointing to the old wiki page. After reading about it here in this thread, looking at the wiki it still seems a bit "discouraged'.


----------



## Mayhem

Question...

Do you think the price point of Mayhems Pastel range is to high?


----------



## BenjaminBenj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Question...
> 
> Do you think the price point of Mayhems Pastel range is to high?


Is this pitched towards the greater community?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenjaminBenj*
> 
> Quick question for Mayhem's and or community:
> 
> On Mayhem's website (http://www.mayhems.co.uk) I found under specialist coolants the Aurora range of liquids. Unfortunately I cannot seem to find the Aurora 2 product, though I see a few Aurora 2 listings on retail sites such as FrozenCPU. Is the Aurora 2 product officially released, and if so, what kind of system life span does it have?
> 
> Thanks!


Aurora 2 was just slip streamed into the aurora shipments, so there's very little of "Official announcements" about it's release. It wasn't meant to be a huge thing, it was just meant to be a bit better than Aurora (old). It just kind of became a huge thing here because so many people wanted to use Aurora. The max recommended life span is 1 year, after which point it's surfactants begin to break down. So yeah, Mayhems presently makes aurora2 in white, red, and blue. They did a short run of other A2 colours so there's some other A2 colours floating around, but yeah: There's all the info you need to know about A2s release.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Question...
> 
> Do you think the price point of Mayhems Pastel range is to high?


Honest answer:

I feel like for the people that are familiar with the product and have made the jump into it already, have no issue with the price, because they know what they are getting...the longest life span, sweet looks, minimal maintenance, etc. It is a little daunting when you are coming over from plain DI or just starting to water cool because it is pretty much double or more the price of most other fluids. So, lowering prices a bit _may_ help get some more people to take the plunge into pastel

IDK what all your margins are on the product or would I be able to give a good estimate on how many more units lower prices would sell to say if lowering the prices is worth it from a business standpoint.

From a consumer standpoint, every consumer likes lower prices









Side note:

after spending thousands on most machines that are watercooled, to complain about fluid price (based on current prices) is silly to me. It is also the 1 thing that if you totally mess up with (thinking like using tap water, no additives, all the other terrible things), it will cause the most damage (in terms of dollars to fix/replace)...aside from crazy electrical issue or a building burning down.

When it all comes down to it, the fluid (even using most expensive), is usually < 2% of the entire system cost. Paying $10+ per fitting should irk everyone more that $20-60 on fluids


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Heya Mayhem Useres! I see that Aurora 2 is coming out (or is out). I was wondering about it, how easy is it to get a dark aqua blue color going?


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Question...
> 
> Do you think the price point of Mayhems Pastel range is to high?


It's OK, but I feel 1L is not enough for most loops besides the simplest (1 rad, up to 2 blocks). And 2 bottles of Pastel is too expensive imo. Would be nice to have a larger amount of concentrate/coolant even if it costs more than current 1L ones, but less than buying 2 separate bottles.

However, one can argue 2-3 year life of the coolants pays it off.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Heya Mayhem Useres! I see that Aurora 2 is coming out (or is out). I was wondering about it, how easy is it to get a dark aqua blue color going?


the nebula blue is fairly dark, theres a few videos on youtube where it looks more like the pastel blue but i think thats just the camera/lighting. you can always add dyes to darken it up a bit if you want.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

If I can get it to last two years I'll be getting this stuff, they have a new one out of the aurora don't they? I don't know how much I will need for my loop. I have a 560x140x45mm rad and a 420x140x60mm rad, plus a 200mm (420mL) reservoir, planning a loop with around 9-10ft of tubing and three GPU blocks 1 CPU block. I can't find specs on how much the rads hold as far as liquid. No clue how much I'll need yet...

I want to get the concentrate and add color to it, then I can amke it as dark as I need as well as the correct color. Currently my wire colorscheme is:



I might have to add a drop of dilute green dye to the loop along with a couple drops dark blue dye.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Also, anything I should be aware of if using the Aurora (if they Aurora 2 is out) for a long term useage?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Also, anything I should be aware of if using the Aurora (if they Aurora 2 is out) for a long term useage?


with aurora you generally want to avoid 90 degree fittings, bay reservoirs, and i believe it works best with single row rads. Not sure how much better A2 is with these things but i built my rig specifically for aurora


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> It's OK, but I feel 1L is not enough for most loops besides the simplest (1 rad, up to 2 blocks). And 2 bottles of Pastel is too expensive imo. Would be nice to have a larger amount of concentrate/coolant even if it costs more than current 1L ones, but less than buying 2 separate bottles.
> 
> However, one can argue 2-3 year life of the coolants pays it off.


I'm preparing my first loop and getting to know how much liquid you will need is hard. I'm no really sure if I will be ok with just 1L so I will probably order 2L just to be safe. If I end not using the second bottle at all, I will be frustrated.

So I think both offering a larger bottle and trying to educate people on how many coolant they are really going to need will be nice options.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Dear Resellers,
> Back in January we wrote to you regarding our RX V2 being sold in China on TaoBao and Alibaba without our permission. This was being done by the factory which used to manufacture the RX and RS series. Since then we have had to repeatedly send IP infringement notices to these site to remove the listings. While this is successful it's a constant battle.
> 
> More recently we have seen our designs being offered with custom logos. The first instance of this was from Dazmode in Canada and his Darkside brand. As a result of this we had to stop all business with Dazmode.
> 
> Unfortunately we noticed another company doing the same a couple of months ago. Mayhems posted some photos of radiator prototypes on Facebook that looked suspiciously familiar. We made contact with Mayhems to make them aware that the radiators were made with our tooling and designs. We requested that they changed the design and made their own tooling before going into production.
> 
> This week Mayhems released the radiator with only minor changes. The logo has been changed and they have a chamfer at the back of the header tank, but it's still clearly recognisable as an RX radiator. Internally it's using our core design with some extra baffles to make it four pass instead of two. Nearly all of the radiator is still made with our designs and tooling.
> 
> We would politely ask resellers not to stock Mayhems radiators until they make something with their own designs and tooling. We don't want XSPC radiators to be displayed and sold alongside these copies.
> 
> Mayhems Havoc radiators are made using our old V2 design and tooling, so the radiator will have lower performance, lower finishing quality and likely a higher price than the RX V3. As a result we don't expect them to sell many. That being said, it still damages our brand and it's insulting to us to see someone put their logo on our work and call it their own.
> 
> If you have any questions please ask.
> 
> Best Regards,
> XSPC ASIA


This has been sent out from Paul Lockly Owner of XSPC to re sellers world side.

Which is a complete lie as none of his tooling was ever used and also the production method for the FPI is different as are the internal baffle which again put his rads to shame. This is why Mayhems held back a few months while we double checked every thing.. XSPC has for years tried and failed to close down Mayhems by phoning, skyping, emailing re sellers and asking not to stock our products because its harming his business (this was confirmed from more that 2 re sellers) which is totally true as we produce better products than him and he doesn't like it.. If XSPC had any standing they would take us to court in the UK, how ever they very well know they have NO LEGAL CLAIM what so ever so they have reverted to the above email in Privet trying to pull a fast one.

Now please don't go taking sides and slating XSPC because we feel they do make some good blocks and products and i do respect there product range. They have come along way in the last few years and this little bump is just that. Business is business







and we don't need to lower our selfs to his level


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> If I can get it to last two years I'll be getting this stuff, they have a new one out of the aurora don't they? I don't know how much I will need for my loop. I have a 560x140x45mm rad and a 420x140x60mm rad, plus a 200mm (420mL) reservoir, planning a loop with around 9-10ft of tubing and three GPU blocks 1 CPU block. I can't find specs on how much the rads hold as far as liquid. No clue how much I'll need yet...
> 
> I want to get the concentrate and add color to it, then I can amke it as dark as I need as well as the correct color. Currently my wire colorscheme is:
> 
> 
> 
> I might have to add a drop of dilute green dye to the loop along with a couple drops dark blue dye.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Also, anything I should be aware of if using the Aurora (if they Aurora 2 is out) for a long term useage?


Erm, no to all of that.







Aurora 2 will last a year before the surfactants break down, so that should be your goal for the particles to last. Aurora likes single row radiators, those rads you're using a dual and triple row. Something like the ST-30, or the new GTS Nemesis rads would be your best bet for aurora. (Geggeg has some wicked testing on them out, and they absolutely crush the ALphacool rads at lower fan speeds.) Unless you're willing to drop some coin for some new rads Aurora isn't going to last very long in your loop. Sorry to drop a bomb on you like that, but those are the facts. If you do want to get a loop set up for Aurora let us know, and we can help with any other components for aurora compatibility.

-Z


----------



## jthm4goth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> This has been sent out from Paul Lockly Owner of XSPC to re sellers world side.
> 
> Which is a complete lie as none of his tooling was ever used and also the production method for the FPI is different as are the internal baffle which again put his rads to shame. This is why Mayhems held back a few months while we double checked every thing.. XSPC has for years tried and failed to close down Mayhems by phoning, skyping, emailing re sellers and asking not to stock our products because its harming his business (this was confirmed from more that 2 re sellers) which is totally true as we produce better products than him and he doesn't like it.. If XSPC had any standing they would take us to court in the UK, how ever they very well know they have NO LEGAL CLAIM what so ever so they have reverted to the above email in Privet trying to pull a fast one.
> 
> Now please don't go taking sides and slating XSPC because we feel they do make some good blocks and products and i do respect there product range. They have come along way in the last few years and this little bump is just that. Business is business
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and we don't need to lower our selfs to his level


That's crazy to attack you like that if they are so confident in their product they shouldn't even need to send an email to resellers


----------



## Mayhem

Its great in our eyes, all this free publicity. Now people who didn't know about our rads will







and there cheaper than his haha.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jthm4goth*
> 
> That's crazy to attack you like that if they are so confident in their product they shouldn't even need to send an email to resellers


+1

This is disgusting dirty tactics from xspc - which is a shame as they do make some good stuff. I am surprised Mick is taking this so well, I am not sure I could have done. I think xspc will only tarnish there own reputation in the end by doing this sort of thing. Mayhems have my full support.

Mark


----------



## nRRe

Have just plain distilled water in my loop now for 2 days, thinking of picking up some Mayhem Pastel Ice White for it.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jthm4goth*
> 
> That's crazy to attack you like that if they are so confident in their product they shouldn't even need to send an email to resellers
> 
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> This is disgusting dirty tactics from xspc - which is a shame as they do make some good stuff. I am surprised Mick is taking this so well, I am not sure I could have done. I think xspc will only tarnish there own reputation in the end by doing this sort of thing. Mayhems have my full support.
> 
> Mark
Click to expand...

To be honest if this happened a few years ago i would have hit the roof how ever you learn this business is built on back stabbing and stuff like this all the time. Its a glitch and it only promotes us further no matter what he does or even is he sends his trolls over to cover his ass it will simply promo us more. Rock on and let advance more.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Dear Resellers,
> Back in January we wrote to you regarding our RX V2 being sold in China on TaoBao and Alibaba without our permission. This was being done by the factory which used to manufacture the RX and RS series. Since then we have had to repeatedly send IP infringement notices to these site to remove the listings. While this is successful it's a constant battle.
> 
> More recently we have seen our designs being offered with custom logos. The first instance of this was from Dazmode in Canada and his Darkside brand. As a result of this we had to stop all business with Dazmode.
> 
> Unfortunately we noticed another company doing the same a couple of months ago. Mayhems posted some photos of radiator prototypes on Facebook that looked suspiciously familiar. We made contact with Mayhems to make them aware that the radiators were made with our tooling and designs. We requested that they changed the design and made their own tooling before going into production.
> 
> This week Mayhems released the radiator with only minor changes. The logo has been changed and they have a chamfer at the back of the header tank, but it's still clearly recognisable as an RX radiator. Internally it's using our core design with some extra baffles to make it four pass instead of two. Nearly all of the radiator is still made with our designs and tooling.
> 
> We would politely ask resellers not to stock Mayhems radiators until they make something with their own designs and tooling. We don't want XSPC radiators to be displayed and sold alongside these copies.
> 
> Mayhems Havoc radiators are made using our old V2 design and tooling, so the radiator will have lower performance, lower finishing quality and likely a higher price than the RX V3. As a result we don't expect them to sell many. That being said, it still damages our brand and it's insulting to us to see someone put their logo on our work and call it their own.
> 
> If you have any questions please ask.
> 
> Best Regards,
> XSPC ASIA
> 
> 
> 
> This has been sent out from Paul Lockly Owner of XSPC to re sellers world side.
> 
> Which is a complete lie as none of his tooling was ever used and also the production method for the FPI is different as are the internal baffle which again put his rads to shame. This is why Mayhems held back a few months while we double checked every thing.. XSPC has for years tried and failed to close down Mayhems by phoning, skyping, emailing re sellers and asking not to stock our products because its harming his business (this was confirmed from more that 2 re sellers) which is totally true as we produce better products than him and he doesn't like it.. If XSPC had any standing they would take us to court in the UK, how ever they very well know they have NO LEGAL CLAIM what so ever so they have reverted to the above email in Privet trying to pull a fast one.
> 
> Now please don't go taking sides and slating XSPC because we feel they do make some good blocks and products and i do respect there product range. They have come along way in the last few years and this little bump is just that. Business is business
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and we don't need to lower our selfs to his level
Click to expand...

Naw, Havoc rads have more pylons. If you made your rads in China he might the ever so slightest ground to stand on, but how can he claim that Chinese knock offs were making "so called" xspc rads, then somehow direct that to rads being manufactured in a completely different country? Is he trying to connect the two? What? I'm failing to understand his point... with that. Long story short, always be sure to have adequate pylons constructed.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> To be honest if this happened a few years ago i would have hit the roof how ever you learn this business is built on back stabbing and stuff like this all the time. Its a glitch and it only promotes us further no matter what he does or even is he sends his trolls over to cover his ass it will simply promo us more. Rock on and let advance more.


Two words, punching bag. I always keep mine handy when working on projects.









-Z


----------



## l3p

Backstabbing (even by the owners of companies and in public) really is a pain lately


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l3p*
> 
> Backstabbing (even by the owners of companies and in public) really is a pain lately


Remember that whole G-Vans shenanigans a while back with fan controllers? Now that was brutal, especially for the people who ordered the Lamptron units. It really is a huge issue lately, but such is the nature of emerging industries. Retail PC watercooling is only about a decade old, at least since it took off, so I cringe hoping this doesn't become more prevalent. uff da

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

They are made in China not UK. How ever we have all the receipts for the tooling and manufacturing. We took over a old factory were XSPC had made some rads (we didn't know this at the time), We worked with the factory to improve over all production, the design internal and external inc fpi and fin design and we used new tooling we paid for. XSPC have no rights what so ever as said if they did they would see us in court. In fact we have full registered design rights in the EU they haven't got any and we've had this double checked. We have many emails from xspc ref these rads and they even agreed we had changed them enough how ever we knew this was coming because we know what Paul Lockly is like.

here is a quote from one of his emails ->
Quote:


> From: Paul Lockey - XSPC [mailto[email protected]]
> Sent: 13 August 2014 22:47
> To: michael wood
> Cc: Steve; [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Morning Paul.
> 
> Hi Mick,
> *I appreciate your cooperation. If you are making new side plate and end tank designs/tooling then we can say this is resolved.* I just hope we don't have to come back to this issue when you release. It would be easier for both of us if you just send us the designs over when they are done and we can review them. We couldn't do anything with the designs anyway, so it's not really that sensitive. It's up to you, but I think it would make sense from both sides.
> 
> On to more positive business. I would be interested in taking a look at your oem prices for pastel coolant.
> 
> Hopefully we can do business together in future and put the past behind us.
> 
> Regards, Paul
> XSPC


When it comes to stuff like this just double check every thing you do because companies like this are ready to pounce all the time. Never take offence over it because its a dog eat dog world.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> They are made in China not UK. How ever we have all the receipts for the tooling and manufacturing. We took over a old factory were XSPC had made some rads (we didn't know this at the time), We worked with the factory to improve over all production, the design internal and external and we used new tooling we paid for. XSPC have no rights what so ever as said if they did they would see us in court. In fact we have full registered design rights in the EU they haven't got any and we've had this double checked. We have many emails from xspc ref these rads and they even agreed we had changed them enough how ever we knew this was coming because we know what Paul Lockly is like.
> 
> here is a quote from one of his emails ->
> When it comes to stuff like this just double check every thing you doing because companies like this are ready to pounce all the time.


Ah, I thought I read a while back they were going to be made in the U.K. My bad, either way it's rather silly that he said the revisions were satisfactory, then throws a hissy fit. I wonder how many XSPC employees are rolling their eyes right now.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

We did release a set of rads in the past made in the UK but that was about 2 years ago again using the same idear that we've done on these ones.


----------



## natsu2014

What colour would work nice with orange board? Except white and orange. Is there anything else that will look good with orange?


----------



## Mayhem

Black works very well and highlights the orange.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> What colour would work nice with orange board? Except white and orange. Is there anything else that will look good with orange?


Gigabit Orange? Black and white go with anything so those are always a good option, other than that go with complimentary colours, or split-complimentaries.

Eg. these are the split complimentary colours of green.


So dark or light blue would be my recommendation.

Trust me I'm an engineer

-Z


----------



## Nornam

Such a shame to see XSPC going all over this again & trying to discredit Mayhems & Mick in the process again.. Really disappointed in XSPC, I can't see after the last episode that Mayhems or Mick would make the same mistake twice & therefore I'm confident that Mayhems & Mick would have made sure that all things were right & above board on this. For this reason & many others I could mention, Mayhems & Mick most certainly have my backing (Not that it accounts for sod all mind hehe), But, I'm sure that Mayhems & Mick will have done all this all above board & done right







..... Just my two penneth worth you understand...

Nam...


----------



## Vintage

wow... Suddenly a lot happier about deciding not to go with XSPC rads for my next build. That's quite a dirty tactic.

I do admit, the two rads do look pretty similar so I get why XSPC may have been suspicious but.... there is only so much to differentiate two 60mm radiators in terms of external looks, and obviously they are completely assuming the internals are the same.Silly because they only make themselves look bad.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> To be honest if this happened a few years ago i would have hit the roof how ever you learn this business is built on back stabbing and stuff like this all the time. Its a glitch and it only promotes us further no matter what he does or even is he sends his trolls over to cover his ass it will simply promo us more. Rock on and let advance more.


Hey Mick - I admire your stance on this issue, and I agree with what you are saying, but it takes a strong person to rise above, and therefore you have my admiration for doing so. Now where's my 480 Rad lol.
















Mark
Ps I will remain a loyal Mayhems customer - your stuff is too good not to. !!!!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> This has been sent out from Paul Lockly Owner of XSPC to re sellers world side.
> 
> Which is a complete lie as none of his tooling was ever used and also the production method for the FPI is different as are the internal baffle which again put his rads to shame. This is why Mayhems held back a few months while we double checked every thing.. XSPC has for years tried and failed to close down Mayhems by phoning, skyping, emailing re sellers and asking not to stock our products because its harming his business (this was confirmed from more that 2 re sellers) which is totally true as we produce better products than him and he doesn't like it.. If XSPC had any standing they would take us to court in the UK, how ever they very well know they have NO LEGAL CLAIM what so ever so they have reverted to the above email in Privet trying to pull a fast one.
> 
> Now please don't go taking sides and slating XSPC because we feel they do make some good blocks and products and i do respect there product range. They have come along way in the last few years and this little bump is just that. Business is business
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and we don't need to lower our selfs to his level


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> They are made in China not UK. How ever we have all the receipts for the tooling and manufacturing. We took over a old factory were XSPC had made some rads (we didn't know this at the time), We worked with the factory to improve over all production, the design internal and external inc fpi and fin design and we used new tooling we paid for. XSPC have no rights what so ever as said if they did they would see us in court. In fact we have full registered design rights in the EU they haven't got any and we've had this double checked. We have many emails from xspc ref these rads and they even agreed we had changed them enough how ever we knew this was coming because we know what Paul Lockly is like.
> 
> here is a quote from one of his emails ->
> When it comes to stuff like this just double check every thing you do because companies like this are ready to pounce all the time. Never take offence over it because its a dog eat dog world.


Honestly, this just makes me less of a fan of XSPC. Funny thing is, these emails you posted is the most correspondence I've seen from anyone from XSPC in pretty much ever. I feel like their customer service lines are not monitored as I've never been dignified with a response when asking about their products (subsequently they did not get my business







).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> What colour would work nice with orange board? Except white and orange. Is there anything else that will look good with orange?


With an orange MB, fluid wise, I'd look at orange, white, or black. May be able to get away with light or dark blue
For other things, like cables, you could look at brown or cream, in addition to the white, black, light/dark blue.

Some people say green goes with orange, but I personally think they clash bad


----------



## gdubc

I think they go together quite well...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I think they go together quite well...


The fin's green is has a lot of blue in it tho. University of Miami, I think looks like crap (also grew up in Tallahassee and went to school at Georgia Tech, so I've never liked them anyway







).


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Erm, no to all of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aurora 2 will last a year before the surfactants break down, so that should be your goal for the particles to last. Aurora likes single row radiators, those rads you're using a dual and triple row. Something like the ST-30, or the new GTS Nemesis rads would be your best bet for aurora. (Geggeg has some wicked testing on them out, and they absolutely crush the ALphacool rads at lower fan speeds.) Unless you're willing to drop some coin for some new rads Aurora isn't going to last very long in your loop. Sorry to drop a bomb on you like that, but those are the facts. If you do want to get a loop set up for Aurora let us know, and we can help with any other components for aurora compatibility.
> 
> -Z


It's all good, I figured it might end up being such. Had I known about the Aurora 2 before I had started my build it might be different hehe. Originally I was going to use metal piping so coolant color wasn't going to be an issue anyway. Now I want a blue coolant that matches those wires. I guess a dark but translucent sea-blue will work.


----------



## Mayhem

so turquoise and orange is oky. I think its all down to personal opinion which is good and what makes for interesting and expressive builds


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I think blue and orange go well together. Maybe not green and orange, but blue and orange I think look great.


----------



## Blackops_2

Just getting around to leak testing, loving the X1 Blood red Mick. It's awesome. Very dark when not hitting it with an LED. Going to look great when it's all said and done.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Question...
> 
> Do you think the price point of Mayhems Pastel range is to high?


Lower prices is always attractive to the community .... with EK entering the pastel market, you have the dichotomy of will the lower price make it more attractive or will it be perceived as a "cheaper" quality product ? Of course shipping and transportation world wide eats up a good portion of the cost we see. Anything less than $5 would go unnoticed

$20 seems a decent price to add color to your rig.... on the other hand, was about $65 by time I was done (2 pastels / 2 dyes). I think I'd keep the prices close to what they are and if you want to provide price incentives, I'd suggest discounts on combos.

Say, you a Blitz Kit and get 25% off on any pastel purchases made at the same time.


----------



## VSG

The EK pastel is in collaboration with Mayhems itself though.


----------



## Mayhem

@JackNaylorPE all valid points







Since we wont be making XSPC any , any time soon neither lol.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Question...
> 
> Do you think the price point of Mayhems Pastel range is to high?
> 
> 
> 
> Lower prices is always attractive to the community .... with EK entering the pastel market, you have the dichotomy of will the lower price make it more attractive or will it be perceived as a "cheaper" quality product ? Of course shipping and transportation world wide eats up a good portion of the cost we see. Anything less than $5 would go unnoticed
Click to expand...

I wouldn't agree with the claim that "Anything less than $5 would go unnoticed". If that's the case wouldn't it be just as true the other way around. Would you not notice if the price went up $3.95? I sure would, just as I would if the price went down by even half as much. Shipping has nothing to do with it either way imho.

And as geggeg VSG points out, EK's new line of Pastel is really just Mayhems branching out ...



Quote:


> $20 seems a decent price to add color to your rig.... on the other hand, was about $65 by time I was done (2 pastels / 2 dyes). I think I'd keep the prices close to what they are and if you want to provide price incentives, I'd suggest discounts on combos.
> 
> Say, you a Blitz Kit and get 25% off on any pastel purchases made at the same time.


This is not a bad idea. I'd like to see similar combos with other Mayhems products also. X1 users and Mayhems rad owners deserve some luv too!


----------



## VSG

That's not going to be easy to convince retailers to do. What I would like to see is the concentrates come in cheaper than the pre-mix.


----------



## madmalkav

+1 to the packs with discount idea.

People, how many coolant can I need for a EK XTX 360, one Phobya 250 reservoir, CPU block, GPU block and two VRM blocks? Will 1L be enough?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

So with a loop like mine I'm probably just going to want to go the standard clear dye, or can I still use the pastel, just not the Aurora? Either way I don't mind. I will just probably need a little help figuring out good mixture ratios to get the right color.









Cheers!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's not going to be easy to convince retailers to do. What I would like to see is the concentrates come in cheaper than the pre-mix.


Agree that the packs would be tougher to get retailers to go with, unless it was stocked as a package.

I think the easiest thing to do would be offer a 500mL concentrate at a slight price break per mL. Maybe those sell for $30-35 each? This way you also hit the sweet spot of 1-2L that most builds are requiring these days


----------



## spikezone2004

XSPC is a joke... especially the customer service. I just recently had to deal with them the customer service person emailing me spoke broken English (person was from China) couldn't even use Google translate to email me back a somewhat proper email. After that I told myself I will never buy anything from them again if they can't even talk to me properly. Almost impossible to reach someone at XSPC to help you with anything.


----------



## natsu2014

Thanks guys. I wish I could try both blue and orange but have to choose one that will make my TJ07 beautiful







thx again for feedback


----------



## Mayhem

our shop is down due to an attack (what a coincidence pmsl). it will be back up tomorrow.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> our shop is down due to an attack (what a coincidence pmsl). it will be back up tomorrow.


DDoS???


----------



## Mayhem

sql inject or some thing simlar not an issue were on with it







. Just means an upgrade sooner than later lol.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> sql inject or some thing simlar not an issue were on with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just means an upgrade sooner than later lol.


Ah, those are dangerous but easily avoided. Hopefully nothing important was compromised.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> XSPC is a joke... especially the customer service. I just recently had to deal with them the customer service person emailing me spoke broken English (person was from China) couldn't even use Google translate to email me back a somewhat proper email. After that I told myself I will never buying anything from them again if they can't even talk to me properly. Almost impossible to reach someone at XSPC to help you with anything.


I think this is one of the most important things in business ,and hard to come by, I think it is awesome that mick is so active with the comunity, and great customer service !
Like Corsair Joseph, also awesome customer service, as has just happened to me ,Joseph sorted my destroyed front panel for me and sent new ones free of charge ,even though I said bill me , this is what makes me buy from a company knowing what i see on this thread for e.g. I see it every day, not got my Mayhems yet, but I will soonish, when I have my R9 290 and start the build.

Nothing pisses me off more than no replys from a company you buy from,and slack customer service.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Question...
> 
> Do you think the price point of Mayhems Pastel range is to high?


I think the product is worth what it is, since it lasts for so long but let's be realistic here: No one has a 1liter coolant loop, and going form 9cents of distilled water to dropping $50 on pastel is pretty intimidating. My two cents would be double the size of the pastel bottles, so it could treat 2 up to two litters. Larger volumes mean bulk manu mean slightly cheaper prices, plus people wouldn't have to order two bottles. I use X1 so, I always have my two liters, but I could see that being frustrating with pastel.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> XSPC is a joke... especially the customer service. I just recently had to deal with them the customer service person emailing me spoke broken English (person was from China) couldn't even use Google translate to email me back a somewhat proper email. After that I told myself I will never buying anything from them again if they can't even talk to me properly. Almost impossible to reach someone at XSPC to help you with anything.


I don't think Google Translate would help em out too much.



-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Agree that the packs would be tougher to get retailers to go with, unless it was stocked as a package.
> 
> I think the easiest thing to do would be offer a 500mL concentrate at a slight price break per mL. Maybe those sell for $30-35 each? This way you also hit the sweet spot of 1-2L that most builds are requiring these days


Pretty much this, he beat me too it.

-Z


----------



## Vintage

I think the price is okay because it's justified IMO. No other coolant really comes close. I would like to see the concentrate price be lower though.

Regardless, coolant price is a pretty minimal portion of the overall cost of a water cooled rig and price variation are not too big a deal.


----------



## Mayhem

We are have been looking at concentrating pastel down even further so that you can get more for less the only issue will be life span as its a unknown equation when factoring in every thing. With pastel we know its life span because we have tested it and know its full ability how ever once we change the formula it will change its life span and how it reacts. Ill have a play and speak to steve and see what we can do about a run of 1/2 Ltr versions.


----------



## DeviousAddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> For thouse who wish to know the pricing for the rads we released the pricing informaction to http://www.eteknix.com/mayhems-release-new-havoc-radiators/. Enjoy.


I do believe i will be buying one of the 360 rads next week







(don't get paid until this friday







)


----------



## Mayhem

you can contact [email protected] to pre order the rads there is a Promo code on our facebook page to get 5% off the price making it even cheaper.


----------



## Qu1ckset

How clean are EK rads I'm looking to pick up a dual 180mm EKWB PE , was just curious how they stack up when it comes to gunk left in the rads..


----------



## VSG

It's just 1 sample and not even the rad you are looking for but:



I would still flush it with hot water, check the effluent to see how "dirty" it is and clean further or rinse with distilled water accordingly.


----------



## gdubc

Haha, love the promo code: fuxspc


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems new shop will be open in the next 24 Hours (rebuilt entire shop with in less than 8 hours). The promo code will work on the rads how ever the rads will all be pre order due to us waiting for the Rad grills. If how ever you do not wish for the rad grill you can say in the check out and the rad can be sent faster.

Because of Shipping weights if you live out of the EU you may still have to contact sales ref shipping prices. Sales will aid in getting the best shipping price for you and dont forget your 5% discount code its been said above


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Haha, love the promo code: fuxspc


LOL best promo code ever!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Dear Resellers,
> Back in January we wrote to you regarding our RX V2 being sold in China on TaoBao and Alibaba without our permission. This was being done by the factory which used to manufacture the RX and RS series. Since then we have had to repeatedly send IP infringement notices to these site to remove the listings. While this is successful it's a constant battle.
> 
> More recently we have seen our designs being offered with custom logos. The first instance of this was from Dazmode in Canada and his Darkside brand. As a result of this we had to stop all business with Dazmode.
> 
> Unfortunately we noticed another company doing the same a couple of months ago. Mayhems posted some photos of radiator prototypes on Facebook that looked suspiciously familiar. We made contact with Mayhems to make them aware that the radiators were made with our tooling and designs. We requested that they changed the design and made their own tooling before going into production.
> 
> This week Mayhems released the radiator with only minor changes. The logo has been changed and they have a chamfer at the back of the header tank, but it's still clearly recognisable as an RX radiator. Internally it's using our core design with some extra baffles to make it four pass instead of two. Nearly all of the radiator is still made with our designs and tooling.
> 
> We would politely ask resellers not to stock Mayhems radiators until they make something with their own designs and tooling. We don't want XSPC radiators to be displayed and sold alongside these copies.
> 
> Mayhems Havoc radiators are made using our old V2 design and tooling, so the radiator will have lower performance, lower finishing quality and likely a higher price than the RX V3. As a result we don't expect them to sell many. That being said, it still damages our brand and it's insulting to us to see someone put their logo on our work and call it their own.
> 
> If you have any questions please ask.
> 
> Best Regards,
> XSPC ASIA
> 
> 
> 
> This has been sent out from Paul Lockly Owner of XSPC to re sellers world side.
> 
> Which is a complete lie as none of his tooling was ever used and also the production method for the FPI is different as are the internal baffle which again put his rads to shame. This is why Mayhems held back a few months while we double checked every thing.. XSPC has for years tried and failed to close down Mayhems by phoning, skyping, emailing re sellers and asking not to stock our products because its harming his business (this was confirmed from more that 2 re sellers) which is totally true as we produce better products than him and he doesn't like it.. If XSPC had any standing they would take us to court in the UK, how ever they very well know they have NO LEGAL CLAIM what so ever so they have reverted to the above email in Privet trying to pull a fast one.
> 
> Now please don't go taking sides and slating XSPC because we feel they do make some good blocks and products and i do respect there product range. They have come along way in the last few years and this little bump is just that. Business is business
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and we don't need to lower our selfs to his level
Click to expand...

Not strictly true tho Mick,you first rad was a direct copy of a Thermochill design which XSPC own outright.

Personally,you have handled this in a disgusting manner yet again,you have constantly attacked XSPC at every opportunity....trying get Paul sacked from Coolermaster for making his own Aurora and you claiming it was yours being a highlight.

You need to grow up mate....and fast. These guys may not know what you are about but we sure a hell do.

Sorely disappointing behavior.


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Such a shame to see XSPC going all over this again & trying to discredit Mayhems & Mick in the process again.. Really disappointed in XSPC, I can't see after the last episode that Mayhems or Mick would make the same mistake twice & therefore I'm confident that Mayhems & Mick would have made sure that all things were right & above board on this. For this reason & many others I could mention, Mayhems & Mick most certainly have my backing (Not that it accounts for sod all mind hehe), But, I'm sure that Mayhems & Mick will have done all this all above board & done right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... Just my two penneth worth you understand...
> 
> Nam...


WOW, how easy it is to get someone so wrong


----------



## Mayhem

Hello CM or should we say Mr XSPC Rep's have you come here to troll users who wish to express thee disappointment in the company you work for. What are you going to do threaten reviewers who don't comply to your demands and would that be too upfront for you guys

Mr B Neg we have no need to lower our standards to XSPC levels.


----------



## coolmiester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hello Mr XSPC Rep have you come here to troll users who wish to express thee disappointment in the company you work for.


Not at all Mick, all this XSPC / Mayhem nonsense has nothing to do with me and hopefully will be sorted behind closed doors as business should be but Nam on the other hand i thought of as a personal friend which obviously i was wrong about but not surprised about tbh.

Keep your friends close but your enemies closer so they say


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I wouldn't agree with the claim that "Anything less than $5 would go unnoticed". If that's the case wouldn't it be just as true the other way around. Would you not notice if the price went up $3.95? I sure would, just as I would if the price went down by even half as much. Shipping has nothing to do with it either way imho.


No, I wouldn't notice if it was $15.95 or $19.95 .... was a time when I looked at $19.50 and said $20 .... in this economy, I look and $15.95 and think $20 ... when I bought lunch in college, I kept the paper money and dropped the change in the donation cups, now I keep the $5 bills and put the rest in.
My point about the "shipping" is this.

Product produced locally costs say $12 .... shipping to local distributors prolly around $1 .... .... markup takes it to $18 ... shipping takes it to $23
Product produced locally costs say $12 .... shipping to out of country distributors prolly around $6 .... markup takes it to $22 ..... shipping to customer takes it to $27

So if Mayhems reduces the price of the product say 33%

Product produced locally costs say $8 .... shipping to out of country distributors doesn't change .... markup takes it to $19 shipping to customer takes it to $24 ... that's not a 33% discount to the end user....it's 11% ....


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> WOW, how easy it is to get someone so wrong


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolmiester*
> 
> Not at all Mick, all this XSPC / Mayhem nonsense has nothing to do with me and hopefully will be sorted behind closed doors as business should be but Nam on the other hand i thought of as a personal friend which obviously i was wrong about but not surprised about tbh.
> 
> Keep your friends close but your enemies closer so they say


Dear Oh Dear!!!.... So expressing that I thought that Mayhems & Mick would have made sure of their facts this time around & done things right!!.. Is a Big No NO??... Which warrants a "I was obviously wrong" about being a friend comment??... I don't get the Hostility at all coolmiester???.. & am quite stunned to be honest!!...???...

Until I see something different I'll continue to believe that Mayhems & Mick did things correct this time, I have nothing other than that to think because I can't believe They'd go down the same road again after last time.. I 've not read anything from XSPC (apart from what was posted here) to go on... What else has XSPC got to say about it??..

I'm sorry you feel the way you do about this coolmiester, Although I'm at a loss as to why???.. A letter being passed through various companies telling them not to use the Mayhem Rads is hardly proof that they are copies of XSPC Rads??.. That's how I read it.... & I don't have any idea how these things work between companies & never profess to doing so, But to be hung drawn & quartered because I said I would have though that Mayhems & Mick would have made sure they'd done it right this time & not really read anything conclusive from the XSPC side (apart from the post here)... Is well!!!.... I don't know.. I'm just a bit shocked to be honest...

Nam..


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's just 1 sample and not even the rad you are looking for but:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would still flush it with hot water, check the effluent to see how "dirty" it is and clean further or rinse with distilled water accordingly.


Thanks Man


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Thanks Man


No problem


----------



## Bahlzeron

Will the Havoc radiators be available in the US?.. if so who will carry them? Depending on price (intersted in buying two.. maybe three 360's) I might even be compelled to pay for shipping from UK if not available in US. I'd love to see Martin test them too, results will be interesting!


----------



## Abde

So aside from all the arguments going on i have a question and hopefully im posting this in the right section under the right thread since im new here

i've recently purchased an XSPC Ex240 Kit and got a Mayhem Deep Red dye hoping to add some drops once im done filling the system with Sterile/Distilled Water....
i have read though that the Pump/Res that comes with this kit is well.. how should i put this incompatible i think with Mayhem Dyes as they stain it or idk im just bloody tired from reading different opinions every on tons of sites so i went directly to the source and I'm gonna ask im gonna be using the kit to cool the CPU and Motherboard (VII Formula)

so here is my question is it safe to use a few drops of the deep red dye? how bad will it stain my system and how soon before i have to clean out my whole system again ? will it gunk or cause clouding in anyway?

sorry about the lot of questions but i just can't afford messing things up on my first try


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Will you also be doing a 140.x variant of the radiator as well, or just 120.x?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bahlzeron*
> 
> Will the Havoc radiators be available in the US?.. if so who will carry them? Depending on price (intersted in buying two.. maybe three 360's) I might even be compelled to pay for shipping from UK if not available in US. I'd love to see Martin test them too, results will be interesting!


They should be. Probably ppcs will get them first since they are the official us retailer, but I bet fcpu will get them too. I'm sure it will take a little longer for them to be fully stocked in the US than getting them direct especially because the first batch I'd a more limited run from my understanding. I doubt it Erik be all that long tho


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Hmm, I hope they have a 140.x variant, as I really like how these rads look. Might be willing to possibly replace an Alphacool and see how it works.









But seriously, I am planning on doing a mini-ITX build in the next couple of years (after I finish my current build), and I think I'll be using one of these havocs.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abde*
> 
> So aside from all the arguments going on i have a question and hopefully im posting this in the right section under the right thread since im new here
> 
> i've recently purchased an XSPC Ex240 Kit and got a Mayhem Deep Red dye hoping to add some drops once im done filling the system with Sterile/Distilled Water....
> i have read though that the Pump/Res that comes with this kit is well.. how should i put this incompatible i think with Mayhem Dyes as they stain it or idk im just bloody tired from reading different opinions every on tons of sites so i went directly to the source and I'm gonna ask im gonna be using the kit to cool the CPU and Motherboard (VII Formula)
> 
> so here is my question is it safe to use a few drops of the deep red dye? how bad will it stain my system and how soon before i have to clean out my whole system again ? will it gunk or cause clouding in anyway?
> 
> sorry about the lot of questions but i just can't afford messing things up on my first try


Hi there.

XSPC product are relay clean and you should only need to flush them though with warm water. Red should have no issues in this kit how ever we will always recommend you use better tubing by primochill (Advance LRT). Red dye will stain over time im sorry to say and thats all red dye in general. It will take time and the hotter your system runs the quicker it will stain the tubing. It will not gunk if you use good tubing as its the tubing that causes the gunk mainly. I hope this info is more informative for you even though its not all good news...


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Isn't red in general also one of the more difficult colors to deal with as far as getting a red color (rather than pink)? So concentration levels are super high for reds, plus depending on the chemical makeup, if it's an aromatic dye, its conjugated pi-bond system, etc, can also influence the way it could possibly stain polymers. I'll have to talk to my professor as she studies polymers, maybe she can give some ideas on how dyes attack them.


----------



## Mayhem

As said above yes it can stain tubing given heat and time







. If your after a deeper colour you will need more of it yes.


----------



## Abde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi there.
> 
> XSPC product are relay clean and you should only need to flush them though with warm water. Red should have no issues in this kit how ever we will always recommend you use better tubing by primochill (Advance LRT). Red dye will stain over time im sorry to say that red dye in general. It will take time and the hotter your system runs the quicker it will stain the tubing.


Wow that was fast.... first thanks for the quick support









secondly if you could give me an estimated date of how long before i have to renew the tubing (no worries i bought alot of tubing in case something like this happens) and well... clean the blocks (CPU and Motherboard) from any stain (if possible the method i should use to clean them) i saw your blitz pro but the fact that i live in egypt and have to order everything online and pay shipping and tax and importing duty etc... it would end up costing me around 115$ if not more- so i prefer an alternate method if there is one.

lastly is there anything you'd recommend me to do before i go through with the whole process ?

Fyi i hope whatever problems you're going through with xspc gets resolved cuz as far as i saw both of you guys are amazing company with quality products


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Abde, Honestly with stained tubes, you can't really tell they're stained until you change the color, then it looks hideous. But if you're always going to pump red coolant through it, and your tubes stain red, technically your tubes are still 'good', you won't need to replace them, and if you can't see or tell the difference when you've got the coolant in the loop, you can probably hold off to replace the tubing until you want to do a color change.

My suggestion before going through with things is just to take your time while doing it. I'm taking my time, but rushed getting my rads, now I know Alphacool makes some amazing radiators and their performance will be on key for me and my 1200RPM fans, however they aren't good for Mayhem's 'prettier' dyes, which if I had been aware of, I might have gotten a different brand of radiator. Maybe hardwarelabs or something that would have allowed for the flow of particulate-containing coolants. Fortunately coolant color isn't a priority in this build, though a sexy Aurora coolant would be nice hehe.

Hey Mayhem, so no Aurora in my loop I take it?

 

Would pastel work or is that off-limits as well? If I can't do any of the fun (opaque or unique, non-translucent) colors, then I'll focus on making a rich and deep blue-aqua traditional dye.


----------



## Abde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Abde, Honestly with stained tubes, you can't really tell they're stained until you change the color, then it looks hideous. But if you're always going to pump red coolant through it, and your tubes stain red, technically your tubes are still 'good', you won't need to replace them, and if you can't see or tell the difference when you've got the coolant in the loop, you can probably hold off to replace the tubing until you want to do a color change.


I don't think im planning to change the color since i like the color so much (saw it in the videos), if staining is what you describe it is then im not sure ill ever change the tubing im just worried that the staining may affect the CPU/Motherboard block or idk reduce the cooling efficiency in anyway, maybe even gunk up the radiator cuz as far as i understand staining is caused by particles not mixing well and getting separated

secondly the draining and refilling the loop which is recommended to be done after 6-8 month of filling the build, im afraid the dye will do something if i just add sterile water again and dead water biocide.

If it's that safe to use and staining is nothing but the color sticking and not causing any harm (to no one but the people planning a color change) then it would be totally awesome going with it


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abde*
> 
> Wow that was fast.... first thanks for the quick support
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> secondly if you could give me an estimated date of how long before i have to renew the tubing (no worries i bought alot of tubing in case something like this happens) and well... clean the blocks (CPU and Motherboard) from any stain (if possible the method i should use to clean them) i saw your blitz pro but the fact that i live in egypt and have to order everything online and pay shipping and tax and importing duty etc... it would end up costing me around 115$ if not more- so i prefer an alternate method if there is one.
> 
> lastly is there anything you'd recommend me to do before i go through with the whole process ?
> 
> Fyi i hope whatever problems you're going through with xspc gets resolved cuz as far as i saw both of you guys are amazing company with quality products


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Abde, Honestly with stained tubes, you can't really tell they're stained until you change the color, then it looks hideous. But if you're always going to pump red coolant through it, and your tubes stain red, technically your tubes are still 'good', you won't need to replace them, and if you can't see or tell the difference when you've got the coolant in the loop, you can probably hold off to replace the tubing until you want to do a color change.


This.

Add far as time frame.....it really depends on a bunch of factors, heat being the main one, so it is really hard to tell. Can be months or can be years


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abde*
> 
> I don't think im planning to change the color since i like the color so much (saw it in the videos), if staining is what you describe it is then im not sure ill ever change the tubing im just worried that the staining may affect the CPU/Motherboard block or idk reduce the cooling efficiency in anyway, maybe even gunk up the radiator cuz as far as i understand staining is caused by particles not mixing well and getting separated
> 
> secondly the draining and refilling the loop which is recommended to be done after 6-8 month of filling the build, im afraid the dye will do something if i just add sterile water again and dead water biocide.
> 
> If it's that safe to use and staining is nothing but the color sticking and not causing any harm (to no one but the people planning a color change) then it would be totally awesome going with it


Staining shouldn't effect anything other than appearance. Gunking has nothing to do with the dyes but other sources. Plasticizer, rad flux, or incompatible additives for example m

Depending on the fluid you use, your needs are different in terms of maintenance and what additives you need. If you want DI water with dye, then it is every couple months you drain and refill with new water/dye/additive. If you go with X1, then that will last a year before replacing. If you got pastel, that can go 3 years, with a recommended drain/filter/reuse every year


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I haven't really heard of aromatic dyes causing actual damage to copper blocks and such (the ones that might damage metal are ionic and metal-based nonazoic dyes) the worst I've heard is staining of acrylic or plastics, and depending on the dye, gunking. Unfortunately I don't know the makeup of the dye so I can't tell you whether it's degrading and then reacting in anyway with the acrylic, however I don't believe the dye actually chemically alters the plastic, I think it just embeds into the microporous atomic structure that extruded acrylic has. I haven't tested cast vs extruded as far as staining properties goes, but theoretically extruded should stain easier, and cast-acrylic should be more stain-resistant and stronger.


----------



## XSPC

We didn't really want to debate this issue in public but we have little choice now. Mick's attacks are getting a bit personal so I feel I have to respond. I tried to talk to Mick directly but he refuses to respond to emails.

I feel it's quite unprofessional for Mick to be posting parts of our email conversation and worse to post them out of context. Our offer was that he changed the design and we would look at buying pastel coolants from Mayhems. That way we could both get something positive from this whole situation.

While this argument might look petty from the outside, it's different from our perspective. Our team worked hard to develop the RX series and for someone to reuse our tooling and designs is hard to take. I fully stand by the email we sent to resellers.

We have no issue with competition and our intent isn't to stifle competition or maintain market share. We have the upmost respect for competitors like HWlabs, Swiftech, EK, Aquacomputer and others who respect IP and develop their own products. All XSPC wants is for Mayhems to compete fairly rather than take our work and call it their own. This isn't just a case of someone making a product with a similar function or look. They are using the tooling and designs that we developed.

This is mainly an issue with the factory in China that used to manufacture the RX radiators for us. They have broken both the supply agreement and the NDA by providing our designs to competitors. While it is mainly an issue with the factory, we informed Mick of the situation and he decided to go ahead anyway. We even offered to compromise and suggested they just change the external design to protect our brand. The core is our old design so we were willing to let that go since the performance is lower than the V3 RX. Mick made such a minor modification that we just couldn't accept it. At that point he refused to communicate with us.

It's worth noting that this isn't the first time we have had this issue with Mayhems. The last Mayhems radiator reused ThermoChills tooling, design and even the boxes we paid for, without our permission. In that case Mick agreed to pay ThermoChill a royalty and stop production.

If Mayhems want to contact us directly we can sort this in private without taking shots at each other in public. This issue could be solved so easily without all this pointless rivalry. However, I doubt this will happen as it seems he's treating this rivalry as a marketing strategy.

I also want to say that the suggestion that we are responsible for taking down Mayhems server is ridiculous and pure fantasy on Mick's part. I guess he's trying to paint a picture of David vs Goliath or something of that nature.

Finally we have never phoned or Skype'd customers asking them not to stock Mayhems products, as Mick claims. All we have done is emailed saying we don't want our radiators displayed and sold next copies using our designs. We have done this quite openly and even told Mick that we would do so if he didn't make the changes we requested.


----------



## Abde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Staining shouldn't effect anything other than appearance. Gunking has nothing to do with the dyes but other sources. Plasticizer, rad flux, or incompatible additives for example m
> 
> Depending on the fluid you use, your needs are different in terms of maintenance and what additives you need. If you want DI water with dye, then it is every couple months you drain and refill with new water/dye/additive. If you go with X1, then that will last a year before replacing. If you got pastel, that can go 3 years, with a recommended drain/filter/reuse every year


GRRRRR the articles i Read before buying all my stuff kept saying stay away from premixed coolants and stuff like that, noted everywhere too that distilled/sterile water with Dead water or PT nuke (kill coil too for extra insurance) is the best thing you can fill your system with thats why i went with it


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XSPC*
> 
> This is mainly an issue with the factory in China that used to manufacture the RX radiators for us. They have broken both the supply agreement and the NDA by providing our designs to competitors. While it is mainly an issue with the factory, we informed Mick of the situation and he decided to go ahead anyway. We even offered to compromise and suggested they just change the external design to protect our brand. The core is our old design so we were willing to let that go since the performance is lower than the V3 RX. Mick made such a minor modification that we just couldn't accept it. At that point he refused to communicate with us.


This is not unique to just you guys XSPC, it leaves me questioning why outsource manufacturing over to China just for a cheaper cost when China is infamous for copyright infringement and not giving a crap at all whether people know it's infringement. I've seen it happen to a ton of companies, and in the end the question is "was outsourcing the production worth it?" I guess when it comes down to pure numbers and if you don't mind dealing with an unregulated industrial nation.

The one thing I don't get though is "Change the exterior design" being more important than "change the core." The reality is, when shopping for a radiator, how it looks is usually Not a top priority- radiators are square black boxes with fins. Some of them can look fancy and cool (aquacomputer's non-painted ones for example), but in the end it comes down to whether the dimensions will fit in the system, and how well the thermal capability is (including how it performs with fans). I'd say as far as how something looks I wouldn't professionally or personally care if the products looked similar. To me (and I imagine the majority of people who watercool) what would matter are things such as fin density and structure, thickness of pylon tubing and port location. USUALLY those take precedence over what the radiator looks like. (Of course there are exceptions, some people build specifically for looks, some build for a mix, some build specifically for performance).

What you should look into is whether the core is the same as your old model, if it is that would bother me moreso than if it looked identical to your newest product. The Core is what's important. if they are machined differently (different thickness etc), then it doesn't matter how alike they look, they will perform completely differently, and as such will be different products.

How much of a difference is there between the core of the Havoc vs your old and your new model is really what should be compared. I don't have either an XSPC or Mayhem to compare, however I imagine it'd require taking a cross-section of it, and then measuring the density of copper tubing, internal restriction, etc.

Really though, a radiator is a radiator, and until someone starts using a unique fin shape or even unique radiator shape, there's only so much you can make 'different' between radiators.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi there.
> 
> XSPC product are relay clean and you should only need to flush them though with warm water. Red should have no issues in this kit how ever we will always recommend you use better tubing by primochill (Advance LRT). Red dye will stain over time im sorry to say and thats all red dye in general. It will take time and the hotter your system runs the quicker it will stain the tubing. It will not gunk if you use good tubing as its the tubing that causes the gunk mainly. I hope this info is more informative for you even though its not all good news...


After a year with:

2 bottles of pastel red
2 bottles of red dye

No staining at all on Tygon 2475 tubing. My build is acrylic but I wanted to isolate the loop and case from pump vibration so used ~ 3" lengths on pump inlet / outlet. Expected as much as the 2475 has the lowest result I have seen under (0.10%) the ASTM Water Absorption Test. Not only doesn't have any DEHP plasticzers it has no plasticizers at all which results in it being a bit stiff. If you wanna do a 180 degree bend, the straight parts need to be at leas 3" apart. That makes it unusable in a lot of loops that need tighter bends.


----------



## XSPC

The V3 outperforms the V2 at all fan speeds. That's why we were willing to let them use the core design. It's out of date.

I agree most radiators are similar due to case and fan specifications. But using another companies designs and tooling is lazy and just isn't acceptable.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abde*
> 
> GRRRRR the articles i Read before buying all my stuff kept saying stay away from premixed coolants and stuff like that, noted everywhere too that distilled/sterile water with Dead water or PT nuke (kill coil too for extra insurance) is the best thing you can fill your system with thats why i went with it


theoretical performance wise, pure water is still the best at normal operating temperatures, however, it is a very small difference that most people will not notice or end up caring about.

If you use just water, then you will need a kill coil and/or a biocide like PTNuke or Mayhems Biocide Extreme.

Premixed coolants/concentrates unfairly caught a lot of flack from what was really other issues, such as the plasticizer fiasco. This could happen in plain water loops too, but went more unnoticed because it was clear...dyes obviously dyed the plasticizer, so it got blamed. Really it just brought it forward.

In terms of radiator flux or crap from manufacturing processes, it can still cause an issue in any fluid. Some fluids are more susceptible to showing problems due to pH imbalance (such as pastel fluids turning color).

Some additives can badly react with each other. For example, if you were to put a CuSO4 based additive (say Biocides Extreme) into a Ethylene Glycol fluid (like XT-1), then it causes it to gunk in a hury...big mess, don't do it. In these cases, it is not the fluid nor the additive's fault, they just never should have been used together.

Personally, I am a big fan of X1 and Pastel. I like the assurance that all my additives are correct and the limited maintenance involved (yeah, I'm lazy). I have a machine using pastel that I haven't touched in over a year and it is still running as it did when I filled it. The color of the fluid is still as vibrant as day one too.

All that aside, there is really nothing wrong with doing one way or the other, just what you prefer.


----------



## Abde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> theoretical performance wise, pure water is still the best at normal operating temperatures, however, it is a very small difference that most people will not notice or end up caring about.
> 
> If you use just water, then you will need a kill coil and/or a biocide like PTNuke or Mayhems Biocide Extreme.
> 
> Premixed coolants/concentrates unfairly caught a lot of flack from what was really other issues, such as the plasticizer fiasco. This could happen in plain water loops too, but went more unnoticed because it was clear...dyes obviously dyed the plasticizer, so it got blamed. Really it just brought it forward.
> 
> In terms of radiator flux or crap from manufacturing processes, it can still cause an issue in any fluid. Some fluids are more susceptible to showing problems due to pH imbalance (such as pastel fluids turning color).
> 
> Some additives can badly react with each other. For example, if you were to put a CuSO4 based additive (say Biocides Extreme) into a Ethylene Glycol fluid (like XT-1), then it causes it to gunk in a hury...big mess, don't do it. In these cases, it is not the fluid nor the additive's fault, they just never should have been used together.
> 
> Personally, I am a big fan of X1 and Pastel. I like the assurance that all my additives are correct and the limited maintenance involved (yeah, I'm lazy). I have a machine using pastel that I haven't touched in over a year and it is still running as it did when I filled it. The color of the fluid is still as vibrant as day one too.
> 
> All that aside, there is really nothing wrong with doing one way or the other, just what you prefer.


To be honest the "the assurance that all my additives are correct and the limited maintenance involved" doesn't bother me what does is refilling the loop every 6 month or so if i leave distilled water with (adding dead water as a biocide) and mayhem deep red dye running in my system for say 1 year what would happen


----------



## Mayhem

Hi there XSPC / Paul (ill presume it you if that's okay) and thank you for posting, im too tried to respond right now and had a long day fixing our shop that "some one" did attack but will do in the morning after a strong cuppa. Good night see you tomorrow / later on.


----------



## XSPC

Yes, you can assume it's me (Paul). No we didn't attack your servers. As you well know that's fantasy.


----------



## Vintage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> This is not unique to just you guys XSPC, it leaves me questioning why outsource manufacturing over to China just for a cheaper cost when China is infamous for copyright infringement and not giving a crap at all whether people know it's infringement. I've seen it happen to a ton of companies, and in the end the question is "was outsourcing the production worth it?" I guess when it comes down to pure numbers and if you don't mind dealing with an unregulated industrial nation.
> 
> The one thing I don't get though is "Change the exterior design" being more important than "change the core." The reality is, when shopping for a radiator, how it looks is usually Not a top priority- radiators are square black boxes with fins. Some of them can look fancy and cool (aquacomputer's non-painted ones for example), but in the end it comes down to whether the dimensions will fit in the system, and how well the thermal capability is (including how it performs with fans). I'd say as far as how something looks I wouldn't professionally or personally care if the products looked similar. To me (and I imagine the majority of people who watercool) what would matter are things such as fin density and structure, thickness of pylon tubing and port location. USUALLY those take precedence over what the radiator looks like. (Of course there are exceptions, some people build specifically for looks, some build for a mix, some build specifically for performance).
> 
> What you should look into is whether the core is the same as your old model, if it is that would bother me moreso than if it looked identical to your newest product. The Core is what's important. if they are machined differently (different thickness etc), then it doesn't matter how alike they look, they will perform completely differently, and as such will be different products.
> 
> How much of a difference is there between the core of the Havoc vs your old and your new model is really what should be compared. I don't have either an XSPC or Mayhem to compare, however I imagine it'd require taking a cross-section of it, and then measuring the density of copper tubing, internal restriction, etc.
> 
> Really though, a radiator is a radiator, and until someone starts using a unique fin shape or even unique radiator shape, there's only so much you can make 'different' between radiators.


Agreed and plus rep.

From all the news I have heard, the new Mayhems rads are using a totally different core design that the RX v2,3 or any other radiator. I find it hard to believe that they completely recycled the design.


----------



## XSPC

You may find it hard to believe, but it's true


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> Agreed and plus rep.
> 
> From all the news I have heard, the new Mayhems rads are using a totally different core design that the RX v2,3 or any other radiator. I find it hard to believe that they completely recycled the design.


Unless someone cuts open the rads, or takes the core out somehow, it isn't easy to conclude that. Let the manufacturers settle this in private as it should be done I'd say.


----------



## XSPC

As soon as the first reviews go online it will confirm our stance.

I agree it's better if XSPC and Maymens sort this in private.


----------



## spikezone2004

I look forward to seeing the reviews of both the products seeing which one performs best. However after taking 6 months to receive a warranty replacement from XSPC makes me cautious.

But I do believe it is time to go back to clear tubing and get me some aurora, been wanting it for too long and don't want to wait any longer!


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XSPC*
> 
> As soon as the first reviews go online it will confirm our stance.
> 
> I agree it's better if XSPC and Maymens sort this in private.


While you are watching and we have your attention ,if it is true there is slow customer service or very little ,( I don't know myself,but often hear it ), then please step it up ,this is vital ! if I'm to stay a customer,,Id rather buy from someone who blatantly copies another companies products ,than from one that does not have good customer service ,without exception ! , I'm not saying Mayhems copy either , my point is about customer service, please correct me if this is wrong and the service is great.

On that note, can I improve the flow in the XSPC Photon reservoir ( inside the Reservoir ), I hear the flow of fluid near fully by -passes the Res ,so effectively you have a large glass of water sitting on top of your pump, being just that a big bottle of water doing little to add any water to the loop.

Is there any way I can void my warranty and carve some metal out, or put a baffle in to stop the water from entering the res and then just immediately exiting again through the center tube right next to it ( see Photon thread x 2 ) : http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club

http://www.overclock.net/t/1432177/xspc-photon-glass-reservoir-d5-pump-combo

I can work it out if I take the glass off the pump housing, but i thought id ask first ? And how is the glass Reservoir factory fitted, just tightened up in the thread or is it fitted with a sealant ?

Any feedback and help on these questions appreciated.


----------



## XSPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> While you are watching and we have your attention ,if it is true there is slow customer service or very little ,( I don't know myself,but often hear it ), then please step it up ,this is vital ! if I'm to stay a customer,,Id rather buy from someone who blatantly copies another companies products ,than from one that does not have good customer service ,without exception ! , I'm not saying Mayhems copy either , my point is about customer service, please correct me if this is wrong and the service is great.
> 
> On that note, can I improve the flow in the XSPC Photon reservoir ( inside the Reservoir ), I hear the flow of fluid near fully by -passes the Res ,so effectively you have a large glass of water sitting on top of your pump, being just that a big bottle of water doing little to add any water to the loop.
> 
> Is there any way I can void my warranty and carve some metal out, or put a baffle in to stop the water from entering the res and then just immediately exiting again through the center tube right next to it ( see Photon thread x 2 ) : http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1432177/xspc-photon-glass-reservoir-d5-pump-combo
> 
> I can work it out if I take the glass off the pump housing, but i thought id ask first ? And how is the glass Reservoir factory fitted, just tightened up in the thread or is it fitted with a sealant ?
> 
> Any feedback and help on these questions appreciated.


I used to handle all support emails directly, but as the company has grown it's no longer possible. I agree that support has suffered as a result and it's going to be my number one priority to sort it out.

Please email me at [email protected] I don't want to fill up Mayhems user club with xspc support.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XSPC*
> 
> I used to handle all support emails directly, but as the company has grown it's no longer possible. I agree that support has suffered as a result and it's going to be my number one priority to sort it out.
> 
> Please email me at [email protected] I don't want to fill up Mayhems user club with xspc support.


Ok thanks for reply and contact will do.


----------



## tobyak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XSPC*
> 
> Our offer was that he changed the design and we would look at buying pastel coolants from Mayhems. .


So erm yeah..... Coercion/blackmail "please us and maybe we will buy your stuff"
I rarely post as i never have time, but that stood out


----------



## XSPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tobyak*
> 
> So erm yeah..... Coercion/blackmail "please us and maybe we will buy your stuff"
> I rarely post as i never have time, but that stood out


Asking him not to use our designs is hardly blackmail.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XSPC*
> 
> We didn't really want to debate this issue in public but we have little choice now. Mick's attacks are getting a bit personal so I feel I have to respond. I tried to talk to Mick directly but he refuses to respond to emails.
> 
> I feel it's quite unprofessional for Mick to be posting parts of our email conversation and worse to post them out of context. Our offer was that he changed the design and we would look at buying pastel coolants from Mayhems. That way we could both get something positive from this whole situation.
> 
> While this argument might look petty from the outside, it's different from our perspective. Our team worked hard to develop the RX series and for someone to reuse our tooling and designs is hard to take. I fully stand by the email we sent to resellers.
> 
> We have no issue with competition and our intent isn't to stifle competition or maintain market share. We have the upmost respect for competitors like HWlabs, Swiftech, EK, Aquacomputer and others who respect IP and develop their own products. All XSPC wants is for Mayhems to compete fairly rather than take our work and call it their own. This isn't just a case of someone making a product with a similar function or look. They are using the tooling and designs that we developed.
> 
> This is mainly an issue with the factory in China that used to manufacture the RX radiators for us. They have broken both the supply agreement and the NDA by providing our designs to competitors. While it is mainly an issue with the factory, we informed Mick of the situation and he decided to go ahead anyway. We even offered to compromise and suggested they just change the external design to protect our brand. The core is our old design so we were willing to let that go since the performance is lower than the V3 RX. Mick made such a minor modification that we just couldn't accept it. At that point he refused to communicate with us.
> 
> It's worth noting that this isn't the first time we have had this issue with Mayhems. The last Mayhems radiator reused ThermoChills tooling, design and even the boxes we paid for, without our permission. In that case Mick agreed to pay ThermoChill a royalty and stop production.
> 
> If Mayhems want to contact us directly we can sort this in private without taking shots at each other in public. This issue could be solved so easily without all this pointless rivalry. However, I doubt this will happen as it seems he's treating this rivalry as a marketing strategy.
> 
> I also want to say that the suggestion that we are responsible for taking down Mayhems server is ridiculous and pure fantasy on Mick's part. I guess he's trying to paint a picture of David vs Goliath or something of that nature.
> 
> Finally we have never phoned or Skype'd customers asking them not to stock Mayhems products, as Mick claims. All we have done is emailed saying we don't want our radiators displayed and sold next copies using our designs. We have done this quite openly and even told Mick that we would do so if he didn't make the changes we requested.


Good morning Paul to start with there is nothing personal in business.

When you first approached us about your concerns reference "UK / EU Unregistered Design Rights" -> http://www.mewburn.com/library/information-sheets/unregistered-designs.

Me and you both went through your issues and I changed the design of Mayhems rad so that it did not contravene your 2D/3D design of this product, this relates to its appearance, rather than to technical principles of its construction with unregistered design rights in the EU and UK. This involved paying for our own tooling which we now own and changing the external look of the Mayhems Havoc Radiator series. *As you know we have done this via the side plates, mounting points, and logo and end tanks*. These are not minor modifications as you suggested.

The internal quad pass, triple reflow system is Mayhems design and again does not contravene any of your company rights. Our FPI is also different to your RX 2.

As far as we are concerned we had respectfully dealt with the matter at hand and the case was closed until XSPC Asia decided to Mass email All Re-sellers they deal with, falsely claiming that they were copies. This came to light when those re-seller's contacts us direct highlighting the matter at hand.

I would appreciate it if you sent out a correction email reference our product being a copy as you know this is incorrect.

We will now leave it up to independent users who have no link to us to settle any issues reference cooling ability of such products. I don't think we need to resume any contact via email as these are the facts laid bare there is nothing else to discuss.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XSPC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> We didn't really want to debate this issue in public but we have little choice now. Mick's attacks are getting a bit personal so I feel I have to respond. I tried to talk to Mick directly but he refuses to respond to emails.
> 
> I feel it's quite unprofessional for Mick to be posting parts of our email conversation and worse to post them out of context. Our offer was that he changed the design and we would look at buying pastel coolants from Mayhems. That way we could both get something positive from this whole situation.
> 
> While this argument might look petty from the outside, it's different from our perspective. Our team worked hard to develop the RX series and for someone to reuse our tooling and designs is hard to take. I fully stand by the email we sent to resellers.
> 
> We have no issue with competition and our intent isn't to stifle competition or maintain market share. We have the upmost respect for competitors like HWlabs, Swiftech, EK, Aquacomputer and others who respect IP and develop their own products. All XSPC wants is for Mayhems to compete fairly rather than take our work and call it their own. This isn't just a case of someone making a product with a similar function or look. They are using the tooling and designs that we developed.
> 
> This is mainly an issue with the factory in China that used to manufacture the RX radiators for us. They have broken both the supply agreement and the NDA by providing our designs to competitors. While it is mainly an issue with the factory, we informed Mick of the situation and he decided to go ahead anyway. We even offered to compromise and suggested they just change the external design to protect our brand. The core is our old design so we were willing to let that go since the performance is lower than the V3 RX. Mick made such a minor modification that we just couldn't accept it. At that point he refused to communicate with us.
> 
> It's worth noting that this isn't the first time we have had this issue with Mayhems. The last Mayhems radiator reused ThermoChills tooling, design and even the boxes we paid for, without our permission. In that case Mick agreed to pay ThermoChill a royalty and stop production.
> 
> If Mayhems want to contact us directly we can sort this in private without taking shots at each other in public. This issue could be solved so easily without all this pointless rivalry. However, I doubt this will happen as it seems he's treating this rivalry as a marketing strategy.
> 
> I also want to say that the suggestion that we are responsible for taking down Mayhems server is ridiculous and pure fantasy on Mick's part. I guess he's trying to paint a picture of David vs Goliath or something of that nature.
> 
> Finally we have never phoned or Skype'd customers asking them not to stock Mayhems products, as Mick claims. All we have done is emailed saying we don't want our radiators displayed and sold next copies using our designs. We have done this quite openly and even told Mick that we would do so if he didn't make the changes we requested.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XSPC*
> 
> Asking him not to use our designs is hardly blackmail.


If it's an issue involving wrongful usage of another parties intellectual property it would seem like it would be an issue handled between lawyers, and in extreme handled in a court of law; which makes me question why, instead of taking it up through legal channels, you go directly to resellers with:
Quote:


> We would politely ask resellers not to stock Mayhems radiators until they make something with their own designs and tooling. We don't want XSPC radiators to be displayed and sold alongside these copies.


Along with such avoidance of using legal channels to secure, what is allegedly, your I.P. you make presumptive statements insinuating you're willing to cease business with parties unwilling to comply.
Quote:


> More recently we have seen our designs being offered with custom logos. The first instance of this was from Dazmode in Canada and his Darkside brand. As a result of this we had to stop all business with Dazmode.


Now whether their Darkside units were fraudulent usage of your designs or not it's hardly relevant to the subject of the letter, that being requesting non stock of Mayhems Rads. You claim you wanted to keep this a private matter between the two parties, yet instead of taking action against the other company to protect your alleged designs you contact all third parties. While going to third parties isn't exactly public it is hardly what one would consider private. It seems an excessively shady way to campaign to stop fraudulent use of your alleged IP.

-Z


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I agree, copyright infringement is not something you gossip about over public forums, it's somethign to be taken up legally in court.

Going onto a public forum and claiming something without factual proof to back up the claims doesn't resolve anything and can leave a bad taste in the mouths of potential purchasers.

If however you took legal action and won in the court of law with proof/evidence that your design was stolen or used, and along with that you didn't try to publicize it, then you'd end up getting quite a bit of community/buyer support.

However as that isn't the case, as you can tell already, people are against your claims that the Havoc is 'stolen'. If you want to prove it, do a cross-section, show that the actual machining is the same, win in the court of law, and then leave it at that. Otherwise as far as I (and probably most people on this forum) am concerned, they are two seperate products. Without substantiating evidence that the internal machining is identical you really cannot claim that the radiator is your design.

All in all, the bickering over OCN is bad for your publicity, and the burden of proof lies with whoever is making the claim (i.e. XSPC). Go call a lawyer and take up legal action, don't turn it into an online drama-fiasco (which in turn will only hurt your business, as you'll lose clientele who do not want to deal with a company with such a lack of prudence.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Ummm. XSPC didn't bring this to the forums, Mayhems did. Why would anyone not simply write a letter to retailers instead of getting lawyers involved, which would likely cost a lot more than any gain or loss entailed.
Pointing out that others have bought copy rads from the same factory ( Darkside) that led to non involvement with Dazmode is hardly a threat. The retailers aren't having the rads made and calling them their own like Daz did. It is relevant though, Its the same factory.

Without knowing anything, the rads do have very similar dimensions and external looks, right down to the G1/4 ports used. Its claimed to be split fin but doesn't appear to be. If it is all new, why doesn't it look completely different like all other rads do. It doesn't look like an EK rad, it doesn't look like a Black Ice rad, It looks like the copies the same place has made before.

Maybe its unreasonable but when A, Its happened before and B, they are coming from the same place that has been producing copies for others, that might mean the benefit of the doubt isn't going to be forthcoming.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Ummm. XSPC didn't bring this to the forums, Mayhems did. Why would anyone not simply write a letter to retailers instead of getting lawyers involved, which would likely cost a lot more than any gain or loss entailed.
> Pointing out that others have bought copy rads from the same factory ( Darkside) that led to non involvement with Dazmode is hardly a threat. The retailers aren't having the rads made and calling them their own like Daz did. It is relevant though, Its the same factory.
> 
> Without knowing anything, the rads do have very similar dimensions and external looks, right down to the G1/4 ports used. Its claimed to be split fin but doesn't appear to be. If it is all new, why doesn't it look completely different like all other rads do. It doesn't look like an EK rad, it doesn't look like a Black Ice rad, It looks like the copies the same place has made before.
> 
> Maybe its unreasonable but when A, Its happened before and B, they are coming from the same place that has been producing copies for others, that might mean the benefit of the doubt isn't going to be forthcoming.


More supposition and fuel added to the fire - quite simply, none of us on here should be discussing particular issues between companies without having facts to hand. I have nothing against or support out of the ordinary for either company, but this situation is getting ridiculous. Can we in the meantime get back to using this forum as it is meant - to discuss matters relating to Mayhems, and their products in general, and leave the nasty arguments to the two individual parties - which should take place in private, or as you say on the legal front if need be.

Just my two pence worth.


----------



## Buehlar

Loving my Mayhem's and spamming all the forums!


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Ummm. XSPC didn't bring this to the forums, Mayhems did. Why would anyone not simply write a letter to retailers instead of getting lawyers involved, which would likely cost a lot more than any gain or loss entailed.


Why? Because unvalidated claims can land you in Legal Hot Water. Suppose your accusations are wrong? It can end up being considered slander.


----------



## XSPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Good morning Paul to start with there is nothing personal in business.
> 
> When you first approached us about your concerns reference "UK / EU Unregistered Design Rights" -> http://www.mewburn.com/library/information-sheets/unregistered-designs.
> 
> Me and you both went through your issues and I changed the design of Mayhems rad so that it did not contravene your 2D/3D design of this product, this relates to its appearance, rather than to technical principles of its construction with unregistered design rights in the EU and UK. This involved paying for our own tooling which we now own and changing the external look of the Mayhems Havoc Radiator series. *As you know we have done this via the side plates, mounting points, and logo and end tanks*. These are not minor modifications as you suggested.
> 
> The internal quad pass, triple reflow system is Mayhems design and again does not contravene any of your company rights. Our FPI is also different to your RX 2.
> 
> As far as we are concerned we had respectfully dealt with the matter at hand and the case was closed until XSPC Asia decided to Mass email All Re-sellers they deal with, falsely claiming that they were copies. This came to light when those re-seller's contacts us direct highlighting the matter at hand.
> 
> I would appreciate it if you sent out a correction email reference our product being a copy as you know this is incorrect.
> 
> We will now leave it up to independent users who have no link to us to settle any issues reference cooling ability of such products. I don't think we need to resume any contact via email as these are the facts laid bare there is nothing else to discuss.


There will be no correction email. I stand by the newsletter to our resellers. Quad pass triple reflow system is just marketing speak for changing the baffles.

I don't want to keep debating this on the forum as nobody comes out looking good. I just felt we had to get our point of view across given some of your comments and accusations.

What has really happened will be blatantly obvious to reviewers and users when they get their hands on the radiator.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter




----------



## ilovehamwallets

Hi, just a note to say thanks to Mayhems, i received my new havoc rad today and will be installing as soon as i get chance.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Ummm. XSPC didn't bring this to the forums, Mayhems did. *Why would anyone not simply write a letter to retailers instead of getting lawyers involved, which would likely cost a lot more than any gain or loss entailed.*
> Pointing out that others have bought copy rads from the same factory ( Darkside) that led to non involvement with Dazmode is hardly a threat. The retailers aren't having the rads made and calling them their own like Daz did. It is relevant though, Its the same factory.
> 
> Without knowing anything, the rads do have very similar dimensions and external looks, right down to the G1/4 ports used. Its claimed to be split fin but doesn't appear to be. If it is all new, why doesn't it look completely different like all other rads do. It doesn't look like an EK rad, it doesn't look like a Black Ice rad, It looks like the copies the same place has made before.
> 
> Maybe its unreasonable but when A, Its happened before and B, they are coming from the same place that has been producing copies for others, that might mean the benefit of the doubt isn't going to be forthcoming.


Exactly.

Its not like this hasnt happened before with similar outbursts from Mayhems defending himself.
Although,it was probably Steve Verity that posted back rather than Mick.

I am ordering on of these,failing that I have a reviewer willing to donate theirs for being cut up,I have a RX v2 which I will do the same to.
That will settle the matter,the inner workings will be on display with an example of the rad allegedly copied.

That should put this to bed nicely.

And that,Ladies and Gentlemen, is NOT a split fin rad......



I detect many porkies........


----------



## DRT-Maverick

B Negative, I'm always interested in the inner-workings of things, so regardless of the outcome or reason for cutting them open, it'll still be pretty awesome to see the guts of a modern PC rad.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> B Negative, I'm always interested in the inner-workings of things, so regardless of the outcome or reason for cutting them open, it'll still be pretty awesome to see the guts of a modern PC rad.


Its nothing exciting but the plates holding the tube etc will be distinctive. Based on what I have seen from the photo's already,assuming 15mm spacing,is a 9FPI rad...Like the RX....Not split fin as claimed.....like the RX....Tanks that have had only the slightest of modification that look like....the RX.....

I was hoping Mick had turned a corner and was innovating but it seems,on the surface,not.....

But yeah,cutting up rads with an angle grinder is immensely fun.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Exactly.
> 
> Its not like this hasnt happened before with similar outbursts from Mayhems defending himself.
> Although,it was probably Steve Verity that posted back rather than Mick.
> 
> I am ordering on of these,failing that I have a reviewer willing to donate theirs for being cut up,I have a RX v2 which I will do the same to.
> That will settle the matter,the inner workings will be on display with an example of the rad allegedly copied.
> 
> That should put this to bed nicely.
> 
> And that,Ladies and Gentlemen, is NOT a split fin rad......
> 
> 
> 
> I detect many porkies........


I hope this is not correct regarding split fin design as spec says it is. Perhaps Mayhems will confirm what is going on. I definitely do not want to fan any flames though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Exactly.
> 
> Its not like this hasnt happened before with similar outbursts from Mayhems defending himself.
> Although,it was probably Steve Verity that posted back rather than Mick.
> 
> I am ordering on of these,failing that I have a reviewer willing to donate theirs for being cut up,I have a RX v2 which I will do the same to.
> That will settle the matter,the inner workings will be on display with an example of the rad allegedly copied.
> 
> That should put this to bed nicely.
> 
> And that,Ladies and Gentlemen, is NOT a split fin rad......
> 
> 
> 
> I detect many porkies........
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this is not correct regarding split fin design as spec says it is. Perhaps Mayhems will confirm what is going on. I definitely do not want to fan any flames though.
Click to expand...

This is a split fin rad.



This is not...sadly the previous posted pics are too low quality to zoom on the fins



But wait...whats this?



Looks so much my like my 3 RX's....










I may have to take some scaled shots for everyone to look at.


----------



## XSPC

The factory they are using doesn't have the machine to do split fin. So, no it's not split fin.


----------



## Vintage

Hmmm.... very interested to see the pics B Neg. Only internals of a rad I have seen were the pics on Alphacool's website.


----------



## tipes

Thanks B neg for the explanation and pic of split fin. Now I am worried as maybe the rads are not what they are purported to be - i.e split fin.
Hope Mayhems can shed some light on this?


----------



## Mayhem

The Fins are split between the tubes instead of being one long fin. "split fin". Since there is no Standard naming convention for this design we have named it so. Since radiators are an unregulated industry and there is no real naming convention we can name our as we see fit.


----------



## XSPC

There is, it's called louvered fins.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Yeah I was going to post a "difference between split and regular" rad pic too but B-Neg got it first hehe.

Yeah it looks like the Havoc is NOT split fin. I'd like Mayhem to post a head-on photograph of the fins to verify this but they should probably remove 'split fin' from their advertising, unless these are older models and the new ones are split fin. Won't know till we see more photos.

One thing that I noticed about both this radiator and XSPCs is NEITHER have shielding for screw-protection. This should be a standard feature on radiators these days, at least IMO it should be.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> One thing that I noticed about both this radiator and XSPCs is NEITHER have shielding for screw-protection. This should be a standard feature on radiators these days, at least IMO it should be.


From the picture above, the Havoc has screw protectors- not a continuous plate as in the Alphacool rads, but as small plates below each screw as in the HWL Nemesis GTS. Not sure about the RX V2 but the RX V3 has the tube channels offset from the screws so you can't pierce them. So there's no need for a screw protector in such a case as the worst case is some bent fins which does nothing really.

There are terms that academicians and industry uses which has been used by most people. But there isn't a definite standard. The fins that the EK PE has in the picture above is called a "splitter fin" and that's the term that I believe should be adopted by the rad makers/sellers along with "louvered fins" if the fins are at an angle/cut up/both, and technically I suppose any cut in a fin in any directions can be called a split- just not what I would call it myself due to the resulting confusion.

Edit: Kinex themselves seem to call it a splitter fin as well


Quote:


> Splitter fin
> Space is limited in a PC. Splitter fin increases surface area and makes a thinner efficient radiator possible.


Incidentally, those splitter fins above are also louvered as can be seen. So these two terms can hopefully be used henceforth by everyone.

Having said all this, a splitter fin doesn't change the world when it comes to low fan speed performance. So the terminology here shouldn't affect claimed performance.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Aaah I see them! They're hiding in there pretty well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The Fins are split between the tubes instead of being one long fin. "split fin". Since there is no Standard naming convention for this design we have named it so.


Rubbish.

HWL have been calling it split fin for YEARS,since the first GTX.



My trusty EX....also split fin.....



You are quite blatantly making this crap up as you go along.......

EDIT: _Misleading_ the customer is not acceptable Mayhems when there IS already an established precedent for naming a design.

Watercoolers are not stupid. Nor do they take underhand tactics very well.

I do love a poster that edits previous posts,quote and they stay unedited Mick.......


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> One thing that I noticed about both this radiator and XSPCs is NEITHER have shielding for screw-protection. This should be a standard feature on radiators these days, at least IMO it should be.


To make my buy list .... before looking at performance and aesthetics....

140mm wide ....
Screw Protectors
6 ports minimum *

* Why ? Top rad has tube connections in 2 bottom ports, temp sensors in two side ports and top ports used for fill and bleed ports .....Bottom rad has 2 temp sensors (side) , 2 tube connections (top) and one drain port (bottom).


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> To make my buy list .... before looking at performance and aesthetics....
> 
> 140mm wide ....
> Screw Protectors
> 6 ports minimum *
> 
> * Why ? Top rad has tube connections in 2 bottom ports, temp sensors in two side ports and top ports used for fill and bleed ports .....Bottom rad has 2 temp sensors (side) , 2 tube connections (top) and one drain port (bottom).


What do you mean by 140mm wide? 120x fan size rad width?

I'd also say don't worry about screw protectors too much- especially if the screws and tube channels are offset- but this is a discussion for another time/place.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What do you mean by 140mm wide? 120x fan size rad width?
> 
> I'd also say don't worry about screw protectors too much- especially if the screws and tube channels are offset- but this is a discussion for another time/place.


As in 140 x 1 ..... 140 x 2 .... 140 x 3

Or as in two rads ....

140 x 420
120 x 480

I want the 1st one







.... and while bent fins isn't anywhere near as bad as a punctured rad, I don't want bent fins either. I straightened the ones on my rads with an exacto blade and tweezer







.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> One thing that I noticed about both this radiator and XSPCs is NEITHER have shielding for screw-protection. This should be a standard feature on radiators these days, at least IMO it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> To make my buy list .... before looking at performance and aesthetics....
> 
> 140mm wide ....
> Screw Protectors
> 6 ports minimum *
> 
> * Why ? Top rad has tube connections in 2 bottom ports, temp sensors in two side ports and top ports used for fill and bleed ports .....Bottom rad has 2 temp sensors (side) , 2 tube connections (top) and one drain port (bottom).
Click to expand...

For me its Will it be a ballache to fit,does it have stupidly placed ports,will it fall to bits and is it made by Alphacool/Phobya?

If the answer is yes to any then I move on.......


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> As in 140 x 1 ..... 140 x 2 .... 140 x 3
> 
> Or as in two rads ....
> 
> 140 x 420
> 120 x 480
> 
> I want the 1st one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... and while bent fins isn't anywhere near as bad as a punctured rad, I don't want bent fins either. I straightened the ones on my rads with an exacto blade and tweezer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Ah, got it. As far as screw protectors/bent fins- just use the provided screws


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For me its Will it be a ballache to fit,does it have stupidly placed ports,will it fall to bits and is it made by Alphacool/Phobya?
> 
> If the answer is yes to any then I move on.......


None of the rads at ;least none that I have ever seriously considered had stupidly placed ports .... can't think of one, again that i considered, with that would be a ballache to fit as most are the same size.... one exception was the one that was a lot wider than all the others and wouldn't fit in the Enthoo Primo.


----------



## Mayhem

Ill re look at the naming of convention of split fin we do not wish to miss lead. How ever we are still not incorrect in the way we have named the product.


----------



## ozzy1925

after reading all these posts i think mayhems should only make coolants other than copying .


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For me its Will it be a ballache to fit,does it have stupidly placed ports,will it fall to bits and is it made by Alphacool/Phobya?
> 
> If the answer is yes to any then I move on.......
> 
> 
> 
> None of the rads at ;least none that I have ever seriously considered had stupidly placed ports .... can't think of one, again that i considered, with that would be a ballache to fit as most are the same size.... one exception was the one that was a lot wider than all the others and wouldn't fit in the Enthoo Primo.
Click to expand...

Then you have never had....



Then you realize that the airflow has to go thru the rad in one direction then all those ports....that are recessed for added ballache.....are worthless and mostly unusable.....Also is too wide to fit in most 120mm based cases.....

I do like mine tho....


----------



## l3p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> after reading all these posts i think mayhems should only make coolants other than copying .


Copy that!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> after reading all these posts i think mayhems should only make coolants other than copying .


The horrible thing is Magicool will make you any rad you like for OEM,why copy an outdated design from a company that you have already been proven to rip off and generally be obnoxious towards who you KNOW will react?
Utter madness,he is treating you people like fools and that should not sit right with any of you.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The horrible thing is Magicool will make you any rad you like for OEM,why copy an outdated design from a company that you have already been proven to rip off and generally be obnoxious towards who you KNOW will react?
> Utter madness,he is treating you people like fools and that should not sit right with any of you.


well, thats good to have forums like oc.net .


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ah, got it. As far as screw protectors/bent fins- just use the provided screws


Just using the provided screws does not work if you own Corsair SP 120's as this fan has a bad design fault, you can see the grommets crushed easily in so many builds,the grommets do nothing and you can pinch them with ease with thumb and fore finger and they collapse with no resistance at all, and so make your screws too long and can still puncture the rad, I put this to the test when I discovered the fault, fortunately before I installed, and watched the tip of the screw as i was threading it in and It was going to puncture, I have RX 360 V3 ,so I got some nylex garden sprinkler pipes and cut some inserts to prevent compression of grommets.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Then you have never had....


Nope, wouldn't be on my radar .... looks gorgeous and very well made sitting on its own but would be fugly installed with the clash in finishes.
Quote:


> Then you realize that the airflow has to go thru the rad in one direction then all those ports....that are recessed for added ballache.....are worthless and mostly unusable.....Also is too wide to fit in most 120mm based cases.....


I'm missing something, what exactly is the "ballache " ? If the ports are in the side reservoir space, and no where near the fins I don't see the air flow as being affected in any way . shape or form.

As a former college instructor in fluid dynamics, I certainly considering the impact on fluid flow, but looking at the flow path, I don't see an issue.... As long as the side reservoir space is big enough the cross sectional area is very large compared to the diameter of the flow tubes.

As far as cases go, no worries there, I wouldn't have any 120mm case on my radar ....

I found ....

1. Having more ports on the rad gives me more options on installing and tube routing
2. Separate fill and bleed ports at the very highest point in my loop was very useable and useful
3. Having bottom port on bottom rad gives me a drain port that is very useable and useful.
4. Without the side ports, I'd have no temp sensors. There goes all my fun


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ah, got it. As far as screw protectors/bent fins- just use the provided screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just using the provided screws does not work if you own Corsair SP 120's as this fan has a bad design fault, you can see the grommets crushed easily in so many builds,the grommets do nothing and you can pinch them with ease with thumb and fore finger and they collapse with no resistance at all, and so make your screws too long and can still puncture the rad, I put this to the test when I discovered the fault, fortunately before I installed, and watched the tip of the screw as i was threading it in and It was going to puncture, I have RX 360 V3 ,so I got some nylex garden sprinkler pipes and cut some inserts to prevent compression of grommets.
Click to expand...

You want a simple way to make sure everything will go together without punctures?

Have the fan on the outside of the rad,Screw a fan on one corner to the rad,you can clearly see the screw length then mark the screw and trim the excess,you get the correct screw length everytime.

No punctures and you can accommodate case/mounting thickness


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You want a simple way to make sure everything will go together without punctures?
> 
> Have the fan on the outside of the rad,Screw a fan on one corner to the rad,you can clearly see the screw length then mark the screw and trim the excess,you get the correct screw length everytime.
> 
> No punctures and you can accommodate case/mounting thickness


For sure , will trim if I need to, but i still dont want an ugly crushed grommet in my case, also I dont have many tools of my own, but have dremel


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







And having the stopper plate on rad ,as last dude said should be standard


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Then you have never had....
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, wouldn't be on my radar .... looks gorgeous and very well made sitting on its own but would be fugly installed with the clash in finishes.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Then you realize that the airflow has to go thru the rad in one direction then all those ports....that are recessed for added ballache.....are worthless and mostly unusable.....Also is too wide to fit in most 120mm based cases.....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm missing something, what exactly is the "ballache " ? If the ports are in the side reservoir space, and no where near the fins I don't see the air flow as being affected in any way . shape or form.
> 
> As a former college instructor in fluid dynamics, I certainly considering the impact on fluid flow, but looking at the flow path, I don't see an issue.... As long as the side reservoir space is big enough the cross sectional area is very large compared to the diameter of the flow tubes.
> 
> As far as cases go, no worries there, I wouldn't have any 120mm case on my radar ....
> 
> I found ....
> 
> 1. Having more ports on the rad gives me more options on installing and tube routing
> 2. Separate fill and bleed ports at the very highest point in my loop was very useable and useful
> 3. Having bottom port on bottom rad gives me a drain port that is very useable and useful.
> 4. Without the side ports, I'd have no temp sensors. There goes all my fun
Click to expand...

The former college instructor that insisted everyone has to have a 10c Delta?

Look at the actual structure of the tubes and the end panels...



The in/out are not interchangeable without reversing the airflow thru the rad. The airflow has to go thru the rad in a certain direction based on flow direction,the increasing delta thru the rad makes the incorrect direction nigh on worthless.

Edited:Removed undue harshness.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Just using the provided screws does not work if you own Corsair SP 120's as this fan has a bad design fault, you can see the grommets crushed easily in so many builds,the grommets do nothing and you can pinch them with ease with thumb and fore finger and they collapse with no resistance at all, and so make your screws too long and can still puncture the rad, I put this to the test when I discovered the fault, fortunately before I installed, and watched the tip of the screw as i was threading it in and It was going to puncture, I have RX 360 V3 ,so I got some nylex garden sprinkler pipes and cut some inserts to prevent compression of grommets.


The fan grommets on the Phanteks fan are very well designed....and counter sunk.

Another reason ..... they don't give you enough. I need to put on (6) 25mm fans on my 420.... that means (24) 30mm screws screws .... so why does my rad kit come with just (12) 30mm screws when I need (24) and (12) 35mm screws that I have no use for ? ..... is there really a slew of cases out there with 3/16th (5mm) thick radiator ? mounts


----------



## Malpractis

Hey guys,

I'm thinking of putting Mayhems in my new build, just wanted to check it's fine to use with Norprene tubing (specifically Tygon A-60-G), as that's going to be used for part of the loop (the bit you can't see), wiht e22 for the rest.

Thinking of using either X1 UV Blue, Oil Black, or Pastel Ice White/Black.

The only real difference is you can go longer between draining with pastel's isn't it?

Cheers,


----------



## Bertovzki

Amusing how this thread has become talk of rads fans n screws rather than dyes , hopefully it gets resolved soon, and court would be best, keen to see those first rads cut open ! guilty until proven innocent ? the pic's will sort it very soon and re my post about id buy off a dude that copies instead of good customer service, I don't know maybe neither


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> l
> The former college instructor that insisted everyone has to have a 10c Delta?


Don't know that fella .... but when basing all ya stuff on a series of published results (martins / xtremesystems) that use a Delta T of 10C for all the used data, when comparing data from various sources you do need to be be consistent and to use one data point for making such comparisons. If you wanna talk about this fella to whom you are addressing the comment, maybe you should read or even quote the actual post.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator\
Quote:


> And yes, all data is based upon a "High End Cooling System" with a target Delta T of 10C. *If your case and or budget can not sustain a system capable of doing 10C*, then try the following:
> 
> -Divide the recommended amount of rad space for a high end system at 10C by 1.5 for a *Delta T of 15C* for a Mid to High End Cooling System
> 
> -Divide the recommended amount of rad space for a high end system at 10C by 2.0 for a *Delta T of 20C* and Mid Range Cooling System
> 
> -Divide the recommended amount of rad space for a high end system at 10C by 2.5 for a *Delta T of 25C* for a Mid to Entry Level Cooling System
> 
> -Divide the recommended amount of rad space for a high end system at 10C by 3.0 for a *Delta T of 30C* for a Entry Level Cooling System


Seems to me your claim falls a little flat ... being directly contradicted quite soundly above
Quote:


> Look at the actual structure of the tubes and the end panels...The in/out are not interchangeable without reversing the airflow thru the rad. The airflow has to go thru the rad in a certain direction based on flow direction,the increasing delta thru the rad makes the incorrect direction nigh on worthless.


Well I'd bother to look at your picture but as I said above I wouldn't ever look at that rad, I don't have that rad with that end piece, what exactly is the relevance ?

Here's the rad in question so tell me again how the ports are affecting airflow



Quote:


> Research,you college days should have enlightened you on this.


Research taught me that when making claims as to what other people say, and going further ny insulting them, to actually check what was in fact written .... don't make claims about insisting on 10C when instructions are clearly and definitively given on how to calculate for 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30C to fit individual needs for different cases and budget restrictions. It also taught me not to use product A to demonstrate properties of Product B when the designs are vastly different....as the above pic makes soundly evident, you picture has no applicability. A 6 port rad doesn't have that problem.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For me its Will it be a ballache to fit,does it have stupidly placed ports,will it fall to bits and is it made by Alphacool/Phobya?
> 
> If the answer is yes to any then I move on.......


Just curious, what's wrong with Alphacool radiators? The only bad things I can find about them are that they need a real good flush prior to running the loop.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm thinking of putting Mayhems in my new build, just wanted to check it's fine to use with Norprene tubing (specifically Tygon A-60-G), as that's going to be used for part of the loop (the bit you can't see), wiht e22 for the rest.
> 
> Thinking of using either X1 UV Blue, Oil Black, or Pastel Ice White/Black.
> 
> The only real difference is you can go longer between draining with pastel's isn't it?
> 
> Cheers,


You are fine with norprene and e22,I'm actually doing this in my build (madhouse).

No, there are many differences between x1 and pastel. One is system life, translucent vs opaque, pastel is a nano-fluid, sight performance (pretty small) difference, pH sensitivity, and so on









Go with what you feel will look best in your build and fits what you're maintenance desires are.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> For me its Will it be a ballache to fit,does it have stupidly placed ports,will it fall to bits and is it made by Alphacool/Phobya?
> 
> If the answer is yes to any then I move on.......
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious, what's wrong with Alphacool radiators? The only bad things I can find about them are that they need a real good flush prior to running the loop.
Click to expand...

The QC guy ran off with a katoey a few years back or something and apparently no one's noticed or missed him . . .

QC is such a crapshoot, and the only thing you can really count on is having to spend more cash for a Blitz Pro kit to get it clean enough to use most coolants in it. . .

Which makes it effectively more expensive than a ready to use HWL rad of vastly better build quality.

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Just curious, what's wrong with Alphacool radiators? The only bad things I can find about them are that they need a real good flush prior to running the loop.


That is the main issue with Alphacool rads. Also, their overall build quality isn't always as picture perfect as other rads. For example, I'm not the only one who has reported getting an Alphacool rad with what looks like dust in the paint before.

I've had several rads of different brands arrive in the same order and it's readily apparent the difference in overall build quality when you compare brand new Alphacools to brand new rads from Hardware Labs. It's hard to explain the difference or even have it show up in pics as much as you can see it and feel it for yourself. That said, Alphacools do tend to be rather good performing rads comparatively. I have many and I luv them for lots of reasons. I find they do perform well and I like things like extra ports and screw protection.

B Negative has his own valid reasons for not liking anything made by the Aquatuning companies (Alphacool, Phobya), and for a large part I do agree with him. Though I do like my Alphacool rads, there are a lot of other products sold under the Alphacool and Phobya names I wouldn't think to own.


----------



## FrancisJF

Can I put the Aurora 2 Concentrate in a empty distilled water gallon for few days like 3-4 days then add it to my loop?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Can I put the Aurora 2 Concentrate in a empty distilled water gallon for few days like 3-4 days then add it to my loop?


Don't see why not, but workshop don't see why you would.....

If you do, make sure you keep in a cool dark place and stir it up really good before you do


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Can I put the Aurora 2 Concentrate in a empty distilled water gallon for few days like 3-4 days then add it to my loop?


The thing w/ distilled water is .... if it's exposed to air, it reacts with the Carbon Dioxide in the air and forms carbonic acid....that will drop the pH to about 5.5 - 5.6 overnight. Mick ascribes the color change in Mayhems pastels to a pH reaction often coming from DW reacting with stuff inside certain radiators. While that is certainly a legitimate concern, if it is pH that's the problem, I gotta think that the pH dropping from carbonic acid can't be good either.

In fact, if ya still asking for price a combo discount ideas, meybe adding a 2 ounce bottle of a Mayhems compatible solution to raise pH if ya run across this phenomenon or low pH DW. I used half a gallon and ran it for a week before using 1.5 liters of the remaining to mix my pastel and can't help wondering if that was responsible for the color change.


----------



## rexr0d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jthm4goth*
> 
> That's crazy to attack you like that if they are so confident in their product they shouldn't even need to send an email to resellers


Well that's what you really need to do. If they really don't know they're stepping on your rights, they need to be informed.

If they still continue, then they really are just crooks.

But they have to be kidding with crap like this:
Quote:


> Mayhems Havoc radiators are made using our old V2 design and tooling, so the radiator will have lower performance, lower finishing quality and likely a higher price than the RX V3. As a result we don't expect them to sell many. That being said, it still damages our brand and it's insulting to us to see someone put their logo on our work and call it their own.


That's pretty much a low blow. No one's gone this far to discredit anyone even before a product is released.

I personally don't think XSPC's rads are any more different from the rest of the Chinese made radiators.

And since XSPC is being so righteous, isn't putting a logo on a PC rad what they did? It isn't as if that's an entirely original idea.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> isn't putting a logo on a PC rad what they did? It isn't as if that's an entirely original idea.


95% of PSUs sold have a logo on something that they didn't make....same goes for CLC's. many of those are "in house designs" contracted out to an OEM who does the actual building..... in PSU's there are various platforms which resellers can outright license or they can incorporate design modifications which they "own". Antec did the same with their Kuhlers, while many like Corsair just rebadge standard Asetec designs, Antec had their a few special mods which were unique to their line.

Without getting into who's right / who's wrong, it is common practice for owners of copyright's to advise resellers .... same thing if copyrighted material is placed on a website, owners of the copyright will advise by letter of the infringement establishing the "we notified you" for the record.


----------



## rexr0d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 95% of PSUs sold have a logo on something that they didn't make....same goes for CLC's. many of those are "in house designs" contracted out to an OEM who does the actual building..... in PSU's there are various platforms which resellers can outright license or they can incorporate design modifications which they "own". Antec did the same with their Kuhlers, while many like Corsair just rebadge standard Asetec designs, Antec had their a few special mods which were unique to their line.
> 
> Without getting into who's right / who's wrong, it is common practice for owners of copyright's to advise resellers .... same thing if copyrighted material is placed on a website, owners of the copyright will advise by letter of the infringement establishing the "we notified you" for the record.


^What the man said.

Also if XSPC is being so original, isn't the black PC radiator an homage (by homage, I mean rip off) to HWL's Black Ice? I mean seriously, if the look and design mattered, they should be paying royalties to HWL.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That is the main issue with Alphacool rads. Also, their overall build quality isn't always as picture perfect as other rads. For example, I'm not the only one who has reported getting an Alphacool rad with what looks like dust in the paint before.
> 
> I've had several rads of different brands arrive in the same order and it's readily apparent the difference in overall build quality when you compare brand new Alphacools to brand new rads from Hardware Labs. It's hard to explain the difference or even have it show up in pics as much as you can see it and feel it for yourself. That said, Alphacools do tend to be rather good performing rads comparatively. I have many and I luv them for lots of reasons. I find they do perform well and I like things like extra ports and screw protection.
> 
> B Negative has his own valid reasons for not liking anything made by the Aquatuning companies (Alphacool, Phobya), and for a large part I do agree with him. Though I do like my Alphacool rads, there are a lot of other products sold under the Alphacool and Phobya names I wouldn't think to own.


I have two Alphacool radiators (haven't used but are in my new loop, getting ready to be set up), I'll flush them and let you know how bad it is. As far as the paint job goes, no dust or issues with the paint, and I'm stickler about things sometimes, such as paint and scratches or imperfections. I don't know how well it will run but compared to my old XSPC radiators (no idea what model they are, 7-8 year old rad, so I'm sure XSPCs newer stuff is much better) in comparison. I'll let you know if I have any issues other than aesthetics, but so far no aesthetic issues, my only complaint is the ports aren't flush, which makes it odd for mounting in my CaseLabs (since caselabs rad-mount hasn't been cut/designed yet to accommodate an alphacool, though I brought that up and they're willing to change their design for the rad-mounts (considering it's easy to do and doesn't structurally weaken anything).

I'd like to check out these, an XSPC and a HardwareLabs just to compare them. Aquacomputer would be fun to play with as well... (How do people get sponsoring? I've seen people with less than 50 posts have sponsors before...)

No issues with Alphacool and dyes I take it (considering they're full copper)?

As far as other products by Alphacool, I'm really only interested in their radiators so I haven't really considered them for other components. Usually I look at AquaComp and EK for GPU blocks, and EK for CPU.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> [...] No issues with Alphacool and dyes I take it (considering they're full copper)? [...]


The fact that Alphacool rads tend to have more manufacturing leftovers in their rads than others affects dyes / coolants most of all. With any rad you should at least give it a tried and true partial fill with hot water, shake/tilt, drain and repeat, but if you're going to run a dye / coolant in your loop especially with an Alphacool or Phobya rad, then you might want to consider Mayhems Blitz kit. The cleaning kit was created in no small part thanks to all the reported issues people were having mostly with Alphacool rads and Mayhems dyes / coolants.


----------



## HiTekJeff

I have been seeing an issue develop over the past 6 months with my Mayhems Pastel coolant in my system. Basically, I made a custom grey color mix using Mayhem Dye and Ice White that is now just over 1 1/2 years old. It started out the grey color I wanted, but has become more and more light over the past several months. The color now is between the Ice White pastel and a very light grey. Most of the darker grey is totally gone and it seems like it's reverting.

Has anyone else noticed this with their Mayhems coolent in their system that long? Do you have to add more Dye to the reservoir every so often to keep it the same color as when it started? I can't think of any explanation otherwise since nothing has changed. It just seems to be getting progressively lighter.

Thanks


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTekJeff*
> 
> I have been seeing an issue develop over the past 6 months with my Mayhems Pastel coolant in my system. Basically, I made a custom grey color mix using Mayhem Dye and Ice White that is now just over 1 1/2 years old. It started out the grey color I wanted, but has become more and more light over the past several months. The color now is between the Ice White pastel and a very light grey. Most of the darker grey is totally gone and it seems like it's reverting.
> 
> Has anyone else noticed this with their Mayhems coolent in their system that long? *Do you have to add more Dye to the reservoir every so often to keep it the same color as when it started?* I can't think of any explanation otherwise since nothing has changed. It just seems to be getting progressively lighter.
> 
> Thanks


The short answer: Yes. Certain dyes last longer than others, but if you leave it long enough they will fade. The better the coolant, the longer the colour can last. I've seen dyes last about 2 minutes before they fade, but that's when someone put benzyl chloride, aka PT Nuke PHN, in the coolant. So yeah, over time dyes will fade.


----------



## cyphon

All I'm saying about the rads controversy is as follows:

All I have seen is hearsay, accusations, and bandwagoners taking sides. Unless you have something showing solid proof (which presumably means you have cut both rads open and done a full analysis), please drop it.

@XSPC and @Mayhem, please take this offline, you both are only hurting yourselves by continuing here. It doesn't matter who started it or how, you both are guilty at this point.


----------



## pompss

Here some picture of dual loop of aurora 2 red and pastel red with aurora boost (accidentally all the booster fall in the coolant







)






The results are pretty good the pastel and red aurora looks like red metal liquid









Thanks to Mick to sent me the booster.The other color i used is ice pastel white.Two loops flowing in different directions.Problem is that i don't know how to make the white pastel look like is moving.Cannot even test since the booster fall all into the red coolant








Mick any suggestions to make the pastel white looks like moving ???

i will compete in the MOTM In overclock.net if you guys like my build go and vote


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Here some picture of dual loop of aurora 2 red and pastel red with aurora boost (accidentally all the booster fall in the coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The results are pretty good the pastel and red aurora looks like red metal liquid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to Mick to sent me the booster.The other color i used is ice pastel white.Two loops flowing in different directions.Problem is that i don't know how to make the white pastel look like is moving.Cannot even test since the booster fall all into the red coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mick any suggestions to make the pastel white looks like moving ???
> 
> i will compete in the MOTM In overclock.net if you guys like my build go and vote


Good lookin build! I like the gpu cover you got


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Good lookin build! I like the gpu cover you got


I painted the plate with plasti dip so it can be removed easily in case


----------



## Recr3ational

Anyone made dark blue pastels without using dyes?


----------



## Bahlzeron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> They should be. Probably ppcs will get them first since they are the official us retailer, but I bet fcpu will get them too. I'm sure it will take a little longer for them to be fully stocked in the US than getting them direct especially because the first batch I'd a more limited run from my understanding. I doubt it Erik be all that long tho


Good to know thankyou. I hope they turn out to be awesome performers, if so I'll be buying a couple/few new rads.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Anyone made dark blue pastels without using dyes?


Not sure how that would be possible......


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Not sure how that would be possible......


Hmm. Thanks might just add black to blue berry and see what happens lol


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hmm. Thanks might just add black to blue berry and see what happens lol


mayhems has an ocean blue dye, i was considering trying that with the pastel at some point.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hmm. Thanks might just add black to blue berry and see what happens lol


That's a... bad idea. Add dark blue dye. Black dye is green dye and red dye. If you added that to blue you'd get.... crap. Like literally, you might end up with a coolant the colour of crap. So yeah, dark blue dye.

-Z


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> No issues with Alphacool and dyes I take it (considering they're full copper)?
> 
> As far as other products by Alphacool, I'm really only interested in their radiators so I haven't really considered them for other components. Usually I look at AquaComp and EK for GPU blocks, and EK for CPU.


As was said previously, Mick reports that the pastel is affected by a pH issue that negatively affects the coloring. Mick attributes this to "flotsam and jetsam" left in the rads from the manufacturing process in Alphacool Rads. I can say this:

1. I cleaned the rads to an extent far above what was on the pastel bottle label. Flushed with both acidic and base solutions which were left on for in excess of an hour.
2. Flushed with hot and cold alternating tap water in at about 5 gpm.
3. Did 3 flushes of DW ... sitting as I recall about an hour between each flush
4. Ran for a week under DW, drained loop and tested water it was 7.02 pH
5. Mixed and added pastel red mix....just under 2.0 liters.
6. Two months later added 2 bottles of red dye
7. After 6 months, 4 after the dye and coinciding with warmer weather, the coolant started to darken.
8. Now after 12 months, it is almost jet black.

So what caused it .....

1. We have since been advised that in order to clean Alphacool rads, we must use the Mayhems Blitz Kit. The original instructions apparently were not sufficient to remove what is reportedly left over int he Alphacool rad. So will be doing a tear down and replacement sometime between Thanksgiving and New Years. Will Blitz (Parts 1 and 2) and refill.

2. I have observed that DW left in a container that isn't full will absorb carbon dioxide from the air and make carbonic acid. I have suggested that Mayhems include a neutralizing agent in the kit to address this. Left in an open container, even overnight, pH can drop to 5.5 - 5.6. Tho my DW coming out was 7.03, that was with fresh DI, the DW used in the pastel mix was a week old and I neglected to test it.

3. It's something else no one has thought of.....perhaps temperatures.... during various testing procedures I had done with stress testing and rad fans off, water temps got as high as 38.3C.


----------



## BarisERY

I have a question does the pastel blue stain? If it does how bad does it and will it stain acrylic or petg rigid tubing?


----------



## Mayhem

@pompss Oh my all the booster fell into the small loop. You need to get that out as it will block your system as a whole bottle is a mental amount of particles. It has a very high chance of damaging you system. What i can do is replace all you fluids foc to help you out and fix this problem.

@JackNaylorPE Im looking into you idea of a PH dropper / Upper (buffers) and we cannot really help out on this matter. The reason why is certain colour dyes have a very strict PH level where they work on a very narrow gap. These colours are Orange, Red, Yellow, Ocean Blue, and a Green. Now if we start adding Buffers to the solutions you also adding more chemicals creating sometimes a volatile reaction as well as a wider spectrum across the PH range and this in turn will do more damage than good.


----------



## pompss

Thanks Mick .
i mix it only with red concentrate aurora 2 and pastel red


----------



## Mayhem

send over what you need ill replace it all. Better to be safe than sorry. PM me the details and ill go from there.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> I painted the plate with plasti dip so it can be removed easily in case


Nice ASUS ARES!!!


----------



## pompss

The competition its open. IF you guys like mine or other Users builds go vote for it. We need more votes .

Thanks

http://www.overclock.net/t/1517172/ocn-mod-of-the-month-october-2014-professional-class-nominations/50#post_23074548


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Nice ASUS ARES!!!


Thanks


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @JackNaylorPE Im looking into you idea of a PH dropper / Upper (buffers) and we cannot really help out on this matter. The reason why is certain colour dyes have a very strict PH level where they work on a very narrow gap. These colours are Orange, Red, Yellow, Ocean Blue, and a Green. Now if we start adding Buffers to the solutions you also adding more chemicals creating sometimes a volatile reaction as well as a wider spectrum across the PH range and this in turn will do more damage than good.


Well that's my dilemma ..... 1) we don't know what that narrow range is and 2) if we ain't there, we got no means to get there.

Let's say you want 6.8 to 7.1 for red pastel. So I buy a Blitz Kit, flush my rads part 1 / part 2..... Run 100 gallons of tab water thru, fill loop w/ distilled water 3 times , let sit an hour and drain. Now I crack open a new gallon of DW and run for a week. Drain that out, and take out my 2 bottles of red pastel to mix with my final 1.5 liters of DW .... but the pH meter in the Blitz kit says the pH of the DW is only 5.6 .... rather than hitting the kitchen cabinet or buying commercially available buffer solutions from lab supply outlet, I'd rather have a "Mayhems blessed" buffer solution that can get me into the accepted range with no bad ingredients which might react with your secret formulae







.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BarisERY*
> 
> I have a question does the pastel blue stain? If it does how bad does it and will it stain acrylic or petg rigid tubing?


In order to stain, the material must have a minimum amount of water absorption capacity .... Acrylic's water absorption is 0% ..... Tygon 2475 is 0.01 % .... neoprene is 0.30%, B-44 is 0.15%, E-1000 is 0.29% ....antimicrobial is 0.01%


----------



## sadeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @JackNaylorPE Im looking into you idea of a PH dropper / Upper (buffers) and we cannot really help out on this matter. The reason why is certain colour dyes have a very strict PH level where they work on a very narrow gap. These colours are Orange, Red, Yellow, Ocean Blue, and a Green. Now if we start adding Buffers to the solutions you also adding more chemicals creating sometimes a volatile reaction as well as a wider spectrum across the PH range and this in turn will do more damage than good.
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's my dilemma ..... 1) we don't know what that narrow range is and 2) if we ain't there, we got no means to get there.
> 
> Let's say you want 6.8 to 7.1 for red pastel. So I buy a Blitz Kit, flush my rads part 1 / part 2..... Run 100 gallons of tab water thru, fill loop w/ distilled water 3 times , let sit an hour and drain. Now I crack open a new gallon of DW and run for a week. Drain that out, and take out my 2 bottles of red pastel to mix with my final 1.5 liters of DW .... but the pH meter in the Blitz kit says the pH of the DW is only 5.6 .... rather than hitting the kitchen cabinet or buying commercially available buffer solutions from lab supply outlet, I'd rather have a "Mayhems blessed" buffer solution that can get me into the accepted range with no bad ingredients which might react with your secret formulae
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Wouldn't it be much easier and cheaper just to buy more unopened distilled water?


----------



## Mayhem

@JackNaylorPE Maybe it would be better if we printed a PH "range" on the bottles and web site so that people know what they should be aiming for. We could give advice (which is what we do on here for free and you guys do as well for free and are doing a good job at it)

If we produced Buffer kit we actually start hitting chemical regulations again with in different countries and this is where things become messie (same happened with blitz). Then we have to hit up SDS sheets, Paper work, Registering the products so on so forth. All this for a £1.00 product were we will probably only make 0.15p.

As of tomorrow Mayhems has taken the next step in its evolution and we are moving from a partnership to several Ltd companies. There is now officially *"Mayhems Solutions Ltd"* which is our chemical / Liquid cooling division and *"Mayhems Technology"* which is headed up by Toby and is our PC Modding Division. There are lot of internal changes how ever this does not affect the consumer experience.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Why not include the buffer in the concentrated dye itself. The great thing about certain buffers is they're highly effective even in low amounts due to their dissociative properties and ability to ionically bond to charged molecules, as they're essentially a weak acid with a dissociation equilibrium that allows the ions to interact with other ionic compounds, effectively keeping the solution within a certain range even if other acids or bases are added.

You don't need a lot of a buffer to have a buffer-like affect.

The key is to find something that won't interact with the dyes, are your dyes aryl/azo compounds or ionic? (Ferrocyanide, or prussian blue is an example of an ionic dye).


----------



## emsj86

What's a good non pastel non uv blue premix? I want the premix to look blue with no lights or white leds. Usually the blue uv premix shows up kinda clear when no lights are on them


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sadeter*
> 
> Wouldn't it be much easier and cheaper just to buy more unopened distilled water?


You're assuming it didn't sit around in the bottling plant .... I was making a point that distilled water freshly made will have its pH deteriorate over hours ..... purchasing it is a crapshoot.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @JackNaylorPE Maybe it would be better if we printed a PH "range" on the bottles and web site so that people know what they should be aiming for. We could give advice (which is what we do on here for free and you guys do as well for free and are doing a good job at it)


Well you have been there done that .... so you know the deal better than anyone, several options:

1. Would it be a hassle with something simple such as baking soda solution.
2. Include a squirt bottle with instructions saying fill to line with DW; add [insert quantity and common household or readily available material here]
3. Instructions on how to make something .... 1/2 tsp baking soda per 250 ml DW


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Distilled water does Not deteriorate. Water molecules just don't suddenly, fall apart.

The last thing you want to do is start adding ionized compounds to your water, they interact with other compounds (such as the container) and much more. (Especially considering sodium bicarbonate is the conjugate base of carbonic acid, and its equilibrium can shift depending on other ionic compounds present in water.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Chemistry my friend chemistry.... .... ran a water utility for 6 years.

The pH of distilled water most definitely does deteriorate .... well not sure if "deteriorate" is the proper word as it's not harmful for drinking. My pH meter and 3 NYS certified water quality testing labs will beg to differ that the pH does not "deteriorate" (I would say "change" ..... once exposed to air, the pH of a freshly made DW quickly drops to as low as 5.0

http://www.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_pH_of_distilled_water
Quote:


> Pure water has pH 7, so still, freshly distilled water should have a pH of 7.0. However, interaction with the atmosphere allows carbon dioxide to dissolve into it, forming carbonic acid. As a result, agitating the water or allowing it to sit for a while will leave you with an aqueous solution that drifts down in pH. Because there are no natural buffers in distilled water, *the pH can go down as low as 5.0*.


http://phcalculator.blogspot.com/2013/05/what-is-ph-of-distilled-water.html
Quote:


> Distillation is used to obtain pure water that has no impurities dissolved in it. The pH of freshly distilled water is 7.0 at 25 °C. ......*After distillation of water (during storage) its pH could change*. Carbon dioxide (CO2) from the atmosphere dissolves in water to produce carbonic acid which reduces the pH. In addition, if water is stored in some types of glass containers then alkali material could leach from the glass and increase the pH. That is why it is important to have freshly distilled water to eliminate any possible impurities.


http://naturalhealthsuperstar.com/5-drinking-distilled-water-myths-exposed/
Quote:


> MYTH 2: Drinking distilled water is dangerous! I've read that it is harmful because distilled water easily becomes acidic!
> 
> FACT: Distilled water by itself is neutral. Whenever the air, that consists of oxygen, nitrogen, and carbon dioxide, dissolves in distilled water, the carbon dioxide forms carbonic acid.
> 
> Without other salts in the water to buffer the weak carbonic acid, the pH value shows slight acidity. This is natural.
> 
> The water Quality Requirements of Quantitative Interpretations of USP(United States Pharmacopeia) which publishes standards for the pharmaceutical industry, including those for water quality was established by the U.S. congress in 1984 to control the make-up of drugs. *Their standard confirms that USP for Purified Water must have the pH in the range of 5.0-7.0.*


So when a vendor states that their product is affected by pH, ya kinda wanna know whether it's pH 5.0 distilled water or 7.0 pH distilled water and what said vendor wants his product to be exposed to.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> You're assuming it didn't sit around in the bottling plant .... I was making a point that distilled water freshly made will deteriorate over hours ..... purchasing it is a crapshoot.
> Well you have been there done that .... so you know the deal better than anyone, several options:
> 
> 1. Would it be a hassle with something simple such as baking soda solution.
> 2. Include a squirt bottle with instructions saying fill to line with DW; add [insert quantity and common household or readily available material here]
> 3. Instructions on how to make something .... 1/2 tsp baking soda per 250 ml DW


Adding things to a coolant as a pH buffer is great in theory, but the reality of the logistics make it... rather complicated. You need something non toxic, capable of being used with all mayhems coolants (with the exception of XT1 since EG is already a very potent ionic buffer), with all dyes, be inexpensive enough to make it a practical "Side feature" to coolants since selling it separately wouldn't be practical, and finally making sure it doesn't lower the lifespan of the coolant. From what I understand flux doesn't drop the pH, it just messes with Red dye and pastel. pH really shouldn't be that huge of an issue, just be wary of deionized water, carbonic acid can quickly become troublesome.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Distilled water does Not deteriorate. Water molecules just don't suddenly, fall apart.
> 
> The last thing you want to do is start adding ionized compounds to your water, they interact with other compounds (such as the container) and much more.


Yes it can, depending on how you look at it. Deionized water doesn't deteriorate, but it does rather rapidly drop pH, when compared to other waters. The lack of ions make it prone to forming carbonic acid when aerated. Carbonic acid isn't a very potent acid, but with what we're working with it's enough to whack out the pH enough for some dyes to react adversely. The water doesn't deteriorate, per se, but it does push itself into zones outside of what we need.

-Z


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Adding things to a coolant as a pH buffer is great in theory, but the reality of the logistics make it... rather complicated. You need something non toxic, capable of being used with all mayhems coolants (with the exception of XT1 since EG is already a very potent ionic buffer), with all dyes, be inexpensive enough to make it a practical "Side feature" to coolants since selling it separately wouldn't be practical, and finally making sure it doesn't lower the lifespan of the coolant. From what I understand flux doesn't drop the pH, it just messes with Red dye and pastel. pH really shouldn't be that huge of an issue, just be wary of deionized water, carbonic acid can quickly become troublesome.


I agree, that's why I'd rather not be a kitchen chemist and was hoping the chemist Mick keeps chained in the lab (I got something for that chafing by the way for the irritation cased by the neck collar) would come up with some "magic stuff". When I removed the DW from the rad after a week of 24/7 ..... it came out just above ... (7.03) so I thot I was OK, when it started turning brown, Mick said he'd seem interactions cause of pH..... perhaps the pH was down, but it was disguising the actual cause.

For all I know the pastel is quite happy at 5.0 and it doesn't get "upset" till significantly less. But having been there and done that, if I gotta do it all over again .... I certainly wanna cover all bases this time around.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Jack, I'm a chemical engineer.

And No zyth, water doesn't deteriorate. It can become contaminated, but it doesn't deteriorate without a large amount of energy.

Contamination is not deterioration.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

It's also a well known fact (and a trick when titrating) that you can breathe on water and change its pH. There are benefits to closed-loop coolant systems, and this goes for more than just PC watercooling, heh.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Jack, I'm a chemical engineer.
> 
> And No zyth, water doesn't deteriorate. It can become contaminated, but it doesn't deteriorate without a large amount of energy.
> 
> Contamination is not deterioration.


The [deionized] water doesn't deteriorate, but the carbonic acid from aerated deionized water can cause the dyes and coolant to do so.

-Z


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Yes that's a course of contamination, that's common, atmospheric carbon dioxide Always dissolves in water, there's no way to avoid it. Even in the most controlled environment, the second you expose water to air CO2 will dissolve into it. Hence the reason I buffer solution that could balance the bicarbonate via equilibrium would also make sense. Buffer solutions allow for addition of acids and bases without affecting (or greatly affecting) the pH of the system.


----------



## Mayhem

You all are answering the question why do we not add buffers.

But this is our official answers.

1) The main reason is its not worth it. The reason why it is not worth it is because costs to much in development time, it costs to much to make and you cannot make any decent profit from it, if any at all. in total we produce 40+ dyes, not all are used in water cooling we also work in other areas.

2) Why produce some thing that will not sell as users simply want a pour and go system (premixed fluid) that is simple to use.

3) There is only one rad that causes 99.99% of issues. We don't make that rad and the manufacturer who does should fix the issues they cause. Fix the route cause and 99.99% of the issues go away.

4) Fix the 99.99% issues and the 0.01% we can work on as a case by case bases with out the need for to much intervention.

5) We are not a massive big company with unlimited resources. We are a small driven company who employees people with passion in there work. 50% of our day is taken up with support, 40% Manufacturing and 5% on other things and 5% on development.


----------



## FrancisJF

Man you guys don't wanna make me put Aurora 2 anymore...


----------



## error-id10t

Any Australian's here and where do you get your water? For all.. I just use demineralised and throw in X1 (well now XT1) but I don't it's PH levels etc etc, beyond me. All is working nicely but all this talk about exposing it to air for hours ruining it has me little concerned.

add: I just get the Coles 2L demineralised (says deionised) water.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Jack, I'm a chemical engineer.
> 
> And No zyth, water doesn't deteriorate. It can become contaminated, but it doesn't deteriorate without a large amount of energy.
> 
> Contamination is not deterioration.


One of the acceptable definitions of "deteriorate" in the dictionary is *"to become impaired in quality"*. For the purposes under discussion, 5.0 - 5.7 pH distilled water most certainly is "impaired in quality" if you are using it with a product which is negatively affected by pH in this range. AGAIN, it's not a word I would say is ideally suited to the usage here, but given that the dictionary has several accepted definitions including that one, I would personally feel I was on shaky ground trying to argue against it in the context used here.

Another source says .... "to make or become worse or inferior in character, quality, value, etc." ..... So if I said my investment in gold "deteriorated", you could argue that gold doesn't deteriorate but the "value" or "quality" of my investment certainly did. The "quality" or "value" of the DW at 5.6 is certainly less to me than it is at 7.0 if the vendor is telling me the product I'm mixing it with is pH sensitive.

If ya wanna call exposure to air "contamination", I'm fine with that. It really doesn't matter *in the context of this discussion* if we call it "exposed", "transmogrified", "contaminated", "deteriorated" or even "pH challenged" to satisfy the champions of political correctness. The relevancy is that you can't depend on buying a gallon of DW at Walmart for $0.88 and be certain of it being 7.0 pH when you get around to mixing it with the coolant concentrate. Exposure to air whether at the bottling plant or after you get it home, does drop the pH significantly. The semantics used to describe the change is not really relevant. If I tell my neighbor that I will "run over with the cup of sugar" she asked to borrow, is she really going to take issue if I don't really "run" ? Is it relevant to her baking whether I ran or not ?

The vendor has said that pH is an issue, and, unless we get an update that says, "we're cool within a pH of X and Y", if the pH of DW changes, it is an issue in considering using the product. Air exposure isn't the only thing that affects pH .....if ya have pH of 7.0 at 25C ambient, expect a knock down to about 6.8 with a Delta T of 10C .... tho that's of far less concern than the carbonic acid formation from the DW being "contaminated" by exposure to air. I'll also note that one of the reasons that DW is highly recommended against for fish tanks and hydroponic gardening is that use of such can result in large and sudden pH swings. The range for off the shelf DW is typically 6.0 to 6.5 in the bottle.

As I had indicated previously, I didn't think it was pH that was the cause of the color change that I experienced. But I don't know the product as well as Mick does so I gotta give his thoughts / conclusions precedence over my own. But since I'm going to be investing another $100 and a day of my time draining the coolant, blitzing the rads and installing new coolant, I want to take every step possible to make sure I am in compliance with the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. If it comes down to it, I'll make my own DW or just take home some fresh stuff from the lab. Tho I am hoping the acceptable range turns out to be something we can deal with w/o much effort.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You all are answering the question why do we not add buffers.
> 
> But this is our official answers.


So given that part ... you indicated earlier that you would let us know what pH range was acceptable ... when I check the DW before mixing, what range do I wanna make sure to be in ?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

In Chemistry, deterioration is not contamination. It can lead to it, but they are uniquely different things. Chemistry definitions aren't broad and undefined like Webster Dictionary, so that definition doesn't exactly fly. If you want to word it as "The QUALITY of the distilled water has deteriorated" that can fly (I guess but you might get weird looks in the lab using the word deteriorate), but it's still better just to say it's contaminated and no longer distilled. When water decomposes/deteriorates it forms H2(g) and O2(g), usually you need a lot of energy for this to occur.

Water with a pH of that range would be contaminated, and wouldn't be considered distilled water. Keep in mind deionized water also contains contaminants, (deionizing doesn't affect non-polar or slightly polar organic molecules). The only thing deionizing does is remove free ionic molecules, usually the anions.


----------



## error-id10t

While you guys play word games.. I just put that basic blitz in my system and damn it's foamy! This stuff could be sold @ 25ml bottes alone, it's so foamy I can't get it filled up anymore using my res, thankfully there's good flow even with only that amount lol.


----------



## cyphon

Disclaimer: not a chemist, but:

Buffers are a bad idea for general consumer...no doubt people would buy and not use them correctly and jack up their coolant and/or system and just create support nightmares. Plus mayhems right, I want to buy the stuff, put it in my system, and live life. I'd honestly rather just buy more fluid and refill my system than worry about maintaining a small pH range with buffers

Would a target pH range be especially helpful though? Without the use of buffers how would you keep it in that range?starting to feel like a chicken and egg situation here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> While you guys play word games.. I just put that basic blitz in my system and damn it's foamy! This stuff could be sold @ 25ml bottes alone, it's so foamy I can't get it filled up anymore using my res, thankfully there's good flow even with only that amount lol.


Yeah it is ridiculously foamy. I knew it was ridiculously foamy going into it and I still wasn't prepared for it, lol. It works really well, though. It successfully removed small bits of acrylic left from building, some dye that I was unable to hand scrub out of a block, and more nasties from the rad after the part 1.

But yeah, the bubble production is nuts.


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Disclaimer: not a chemist, but:
> 
> Buffers are a bad idea for general consumer...no doubt people would buy and not use them correctly and jack up their coolant and/or system and just create support nightmares. Plus mayhems right,
> 
> 
> I want to buy the stuff, put it in my system, and live life.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'd honestly rather just buy more fluid and refill my system than worry about maintaining a small pH range with buffers
> 
> Would a target pH range be especially helpful though? Without the use of buffers how would you keep it in that range?starting to feel like a chicken and egg situation here.
> Yeah it is ridiculously foamy. I knew it was ridiculously foamy going into it and I still wasn't prepared for it, lol. It works really well, though. It successfully removed small bits of acrylic left from building, some dye that I was unable to hand scrub out of a block, and more nasties from the rad after the part 1.
> 
> But yeah, the bubble production is nuts.


Same...but these people made me change my mind.


----------



## HITTI

Heya, Mayhem.

For X1, is it safe to keep the recommended ratio mix in a distilled water 1 gallon jug? In the US, they are plastic I think.

Also, what are the recommendations for disposing of the recommended ratio mix?

Is the recommended ratio mix safe to be disposed in a septic take? "of course down the toilet."


----------



## Mayhem

@HITTI When using X1 Concentrate it lasts much longer in its concentrated mix. If you have made up all the mix its best to store it in a HDPE bottle in a dark place out of direct sunlight and at around 20 to 25c. If you do this it ill last upwards of 2 to 3 years providing the the water you used is of good quality.

@JackNaylorPE Ill will post a list of Ranges for the Dyes but this will take some time.


----------



## emsj86

Do you need to add anything to the premix pastel or x1 ? Also if I switch to just distilled water and mayhem dye what do I need to add ?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Do you need to add anything to the premix pastel or x1 ? Also if I switch to just distilled water and mayhem dye what do I need to add ?


Premix is plug in play. You CAN add dyes if you want a different colour. Coolant concentrates need to be mixed with the appropriate amount water, see bottle for ratios. Pure distilled water needs some sort of biocide to keep microbes out. Mayhems biocide extreme or any other copper sulphate rebrand will work. Copper sulphate eats UV dyes, so don't plan on UV effects if you go that route.

-Z


----------



## emsj86

I want blue but I want it to look blue even without lights. Most uv look dark in the res but light blue in the build I'm running blue pastel now with alittle dark blue dye added


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I want blue but I want it to look blue even without lights. Most uv look dark in the res but light blue in the build I'm running blue pastel now with alittle dark blue dye added


Not completely sure what you are asking...but I'll take a stab at answering it

You need uv lights to make the effect. Direct sun will make it active a little, but nothing compared to correct uv lighting. If you want a uv effect, you are pretty stuck with the dark purple esque case lighting, but you get the glowing effects. Honestly, this is what turns me off of uv, because I like white case lights to highlight the build.

As far as getting a uv effect in your fluid, you can add the uv clear blue to your blue pastel and it will make it uv active. But the effect you have will be that light blue glow, not the darker color of the fluid


----------



## vilius572

Hello guys! So I need your opinion. Should I leave this rig in yellow and possibly get black sleeved cables or I should convert this rig to red colour skin?


----------



## Martyfish78

Hi, is ok use EK foam 
with Pastel coolant?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Water with a pH of that range would be contaminated, and wouldn't be considered distilled water. Keep in mind deionized water also contains contaminants, (deionizing doesn't affect non-polar or slightly polar organic molecules). The only thing deionizing does is remove free ionic molecules, usually the anions.


That's the point.... you don't consider it distilled water but Walmart doesn't subscribe to that definition..... the US government says it's still distilled if it has a pH of 5.0 - 7.0.


----------



## DarthBaggins

On distilled I recommend Deer Park (on the label it states safe for small appliances)


----------



## DRT-Maverick

FDA regulations do not allow distilled water down to a pH of 5.0. The US government states that Distilled water is water distilled through steam that is re-condensed and has no natural minerals present. If a pH of 5.0 were acceptable than Gerber would have a giant issue with the water industry and their baby formulas (that are pH sensitive).


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you system goes over 32c (inline temp) as quick as 7 days depending on the thickness of the wall of tubing. The thicker the wall of tubing between ID and OD the quicker it will leach and the more it will leach. Thinner walled tubing take s a little longer and there is less of it.


I ran vigorous benchmarks recently and I can say that my tubing is no longer clear. Does this mean I instantly need to replace it to avoid the leaching clogging up blocks? I am using primochill advanced LRT. Highest I saw water temp go was 37C

If acrylic does not have any of these issues I might just have to spend the money on fittings and tear apart this loop. If the tubing can survive for a long time before it affects blocks I may leave for another 6months


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> I ran vigorous benchmarks recently and I can say that my tubing is no longer clear. Does this mean I instantly need to replace it to avoid the leaching clogging up blocks? I am using primochill advanced LRT. Highest I saw water temp go was 37C
> 
> If acrylic does not have any of these issues I might just have to spend the money on fittings and tear apart this loop. If the tubing can survive for a long time before it affects blocks I may leave for another 6months


Depends, is the tubing starting to tint yellow/light brown or is it turning white? If it's turning yellowish/light brown then you don't need to replace, that tubing just discolours sometimes. If it's turning white than it's plasticizers leaching, which I highly doubt is the issue if you're using Primochill Adv LRT.

-Z


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Depends, is the tubing starting to tint yellow/light brown or is it turning white? If it's turning yellowish/light brown then you don't need to replace, that tubing just discolours sometimes. If it's turning white than it's plasticizers leaching, which I highly doubt is the issue if you're using Primochill Adv LRT.
> 
> -Z


Definitely a yellowish brownish color. That's good to hear. Still more reason for me to convince myself that acrylic is worth it. By then I'll have convinced myself to get a caselabs, two 980 classifieds, and more pumps for extra loops


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> Definitely a yellowish brownish color. That's good to hear. Still more reason for me to convince myself that acrylic is worth it. By then I'll have convinced myself to get a caselabs, two 980 classifieds, and more pumps for extra loops


Better make that two Titan Zs, or two R9 395x2s just for safe measure.

-Z


----------



## Tyrannosaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Better make that two Titan Zs, or two R9 395x2s just for safe measure.
> 
> -Z


If you find the 395x2 I'll buy it! Hopefully AMD will come out with something better than just a 8GB variant of the 290X model.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyrannosaurus*
> 
> If you find the 395x2 I'll buy it! Hopefully AMD will come out with something better than just a 8GB variant of the 290X model.


Dunno but the next few years are going to be interesting for graphics cards. NVidia is adding an ARM coprocessor on the card, and trying to expand the bandwidth to the CPU, and AMD is trying to push their own DSP hardware based audio, and their new HBM to replace GDDR. This is all of topic though, and I'd prefer not to hijack this thread.









-Z


----------



## Malpractis

Just got an email about the Havoc rads. I'm interested to see some test results, especially because I can still cancel my order for 4 x Black Ice Nemesis 360mm rads and get the Havoc's if they are better


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Just got an email about the Havoc rads. I'm interested to see some test results, especially because I can still cancel my order for 4 x Black Ice Nemesis 360mm rads and get the Havoc's if they are better


I think Geggeg mentioned he was going to throw em up on his quad roundup, but don't quote me on that.

-Z


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I think Geggeg mentioned he was going to throw em up on his quad roundup, but don't quote me on that.
> 
> -Z


That sounds like the kind of thing geggeg would do <3 that guy


----------



## VSG

you all too

I'll say this though- I did thermal tests at a fixed flow rate, since I had covered liquid restriction separately. But in the case of the Havoc (assuming high restriction from triple tube, quad pass design) and the Nemesis GTS, that may end up giving those rads a possible advantage compared to a low restriction rad like the Monsta. I have already been suggested running tests at a fixed pump power instead. Things to ponder about..


----------



## akira749

I have dismantled one of my rig this weekend that has pastel red in it. Over time it stained a little bit the nickel plating and the acrylic of my blocks. What's the best way to clean those stains?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I have dismantled one of my rig this weekend that has pastel red in it. Over time it stained a little bit the nickel plating and the acrylic of my blocks. What's the best way to clean those stains?


Blitz part 2 should pick it up fairly well, or ketchup and a toothbrush if you're cheap.

-Z


----------



## Eufawria

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Blitz part 2 should pick it up fairly well, or ketchup and a toothbrush if you're cheap.
> 
> -Z


Hahahah. Had to laugh at that last part. Although don't people do vinegar and distilled solutions or something along those lines.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

A lot of people prefer to use ketchup or hot sauce to clean metal parts of their blocks. I tend to soak in lemon juice. It all works.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eufawria*
> 
> Hahahah. Had to laugh at that last part. Although don't people do vinegar and distilled solutions or something along those lines.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A lot of people prefer to use ketchup or hot sauce to clean metal parts of their blocks. I tend to soak in lemon juice. It all works.


I'd say use lemon juice if it weren't nickle plated. Nickle plating on watercooling parts isn't very well done, so I tread carefully when cleaning em.

-Z


----------



## Jakewat

Got a quick question as I am having a really hard time finding the information anywhere else:
What is the biggest difference between X1 clear and XT-1 clear concentrates, (apart from the amount needed for per litre mixes).
I am going to be using a combination of neoprene and acrylic in my next build, most likely with a clear fluid and just want to know if there is any reason I should go for one and not the other?
XT-1 being most cost effective.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Got a quick question as I am having a really hard time finding the information anywhere else:
> What is the biggest difference between X1 clear and XT-1 clear concentrates, (apart from the amount needed for per litre mixes).
> I am going to be using a combination of neoprene and acrylic in my next build, most likely with a clear fluid and just want to know if there is any reason I should go for one and not the other?
> XT-1 being most cost effective.


They're completely different coolants that accomplish the exact same thing. XT-1 is ethylene glycol based, while X-1 is vegetable extract base. XT-1 has MUCH more potent anti corrosives, X-1 is a much more versatile coolant in that it won't react with much things adversely. XT-1 will react with copper sulphate and gunk up pretty bad, so just don't use any CuSo4 based biocides with it, not that you even need any other biocides to begin with. X-1 was designed to be cheaper, but due to customs and what not whichever is cheaper varies from place to place. XT-1 doesn't like to be mixed with... well, with pretty much anything, just dyes. It also lasts a LOT longer than other coolants. X1 can be mixed with pastel, aurora, dyes, whatever. It's not a picky coolant. It will last in the loop for around a year or two before it needs to be switched out. So either will work fine. I swear by X1 personally.

-Z


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> They're completely different coolants that accomplish the exact same thing. XT-1 is ethylene glycol based, while X-1 is vegetable extract base. XT-1 has MUCH more potent anti corrosives, X-1 is a much more versatile coolant in that it won't react with much things adversely. XT-1 will react with copper sulphate and gunk up pretty bad, so just don't use any CuSo4 based biocides with it, not that you even need any other biocides to begin with. X-1 was designed to be cheaper, but due to customs and what not whichever is cheaper varies from place to place. XT-1 doesn't like to be mixed with... well, with pretty much anything, just dyes. It also lasts a LOT longer than other coolants. X1 can be mixed with pastel, aurora, dyes, whatever. It's not a picky coolant. It will last in the loop for around a year or two before it needs to be switched out. So either will work fine. I swear by X1 personally.
> 
> -Z


Thanks for the great reply, I will probably go with X1 then to avoid any mixture problems with my previous pastel, even though I will thoroughly flush every part, but its best to be on the safest side.


----------



## Mayhem

There is 4 rads now going out today hopefully. We wont be sending any more out than that







. They are going to people whom we think will give there fair opinion and also put it though it paces.

@Malpractis That is my first attempt at mass emailing. Keep an eye on them because i may start doing promo's on them.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you all too
> 
> I'll say this though- *I did thermal tests at a fixed flow rate*, since I had covered liquid restriction separately. But in the case of the Havoc (assuming high restriction from triple tube, quad pass design) and the Nemesis GTS, that may end up giving those rads a possible advantage compared to a low restriction rad like the Monsta. *I have already been suggested running tests at a fixed pump power instead*. Things to ponder about..


Nothing ever pleases everyone, no matter how thorough, even in academia . . .

Using a fixed flow rate is actually a better way to look at the rad's performance, . . . .

The caveat here is that the flow rate has to be within the range that most systems are capable of.

Fixed pump power better insures testing within that parameter.

The catch 22 is, as you mentioned, that the more restrictive rads may not show their real capabilities, or may appear overly superior, depending on the test method.

Maybe testing at 2 flow rates would be the best way to look at the highly restrictive rads.

A lower rate that would be inline with a common single pump system, and a higher rate, >1 GPM, that would be obtainable with a dual pump system with multiple blocks and rads.

It could be important to determine if the really restrictive rads can only excel in dual pump systems, so that prospective users could take that into account in their decision making.

Darlene


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains




----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*


Waited through out that entire video waiting for Aragorn to lead the armies of middle earth into Mordor, that music is rather misleading.







In all seriousness great build, looks like the water from BF 1943.









-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*


Nice One







looking good. When did you retire btw shame to see that :/.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Blitz part 2 should pick it up fairly well, or ketchup and a toothbrush if you're cheap.
> 
> -Z


Blitz is not for what I do now since i'm opening all my blocks to clean them.









Of for the ketchup method on the block but for the plexi?


----------



## Mayhem

Well they are now up for sale

Mayhems Havoc 240, 360 and 480

*Cry Havoc and let slip the Dogs of War.*

The new Mayhems Havoc performance radiator lays waste to existing designs. With its unconventional use of a 'Quad Reflow Chamber' which allows the coolant to remain in the system for a longer period. This allows the radiator to expel more heat than any other product within the market today. Mayhems fuse this concept with its 'Triple-Tubed split fin system' that further promotes the discharge of the previously mentioned heat.

In short the new high performance radiator from Mayhems transforms accepted thinking into a thing of the past.

Have fun and let the games begin







....... The wording has been updated in our usual manner ..


----------



## TheTou

What's the max. recommended continuous water temperature with acrylic tubing and mayhems pastel? With my current fan profile the water temperature reaches 40°C, but if it's safe to let it go higher, that would be great. I only have limited rad surface and want to get as silent as possible while staying inside safe operating temperatures.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waited through out that entire video waiting for Aragorn to lead the armies of middle earth into Mordor, that music is rather misleading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all seriousness great build, looks like the water from BF 1943.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

Thanks









I got the music from another Mayhems dye video.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice One
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looking good. When did you retire btw shame to see that :/.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I retired in April due to work and family commitments.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> FDA regulations do not allow distilled water down to a pH of 5.0. The US government states that Distilled water is water distilled through steam that is re-condensed and has no natural minerals present. If a pH of 5.0 were acceptable than Gerber would have a giant issue with the water industry and their baby formulas (that are pH sensitive).


Here's my quote:

http://naturalhealthsuperstar.com/5-drinking-distilled-water-myths-exposed/
Quote:


> The water Quality Requirements of Quantitative Interpretations of USP(*United States Pharmacopeia*) which publishes standards for the pharmaceutical industry, including those for water quality was *established by the U.S. congress in 1984* to control the make-up of drugs. *Their standard confirms that USP for Purified Water must have the pH in the range of 5.0-7.0*.


Now, let's see what FDA says ....

http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?FR=165.110
Quote:


> SUBCHAPTER B--FOOD FOR HUMAN CONSUMPTION
> 
> PART 165 -- BEVERAGES
> 
> Subpart B--Requirements for Specific Standardized Beverages
> *Sec. 165.110 Bottled water.*
> 
> The name of water that has been *produced by distillation, deionization, reverse osmosis, or other suitable processes* and that meets the definition of "purified water" in the *United States Pharmacopeia, 23d Revision, January 1, 1995*, which is incorporated by reference in accordance with 5 U.S.C. 551(a) and 1 CFR part 51.


Better call Gerber and let them know they have a problem.....


----------



## Mayhem

They are complete (well not all) This is the complex (ive been told) rad grills. from Mayhems Tech. As said the first 60 rads get them free of charge.

More Registered designs will be released soon. There will be 120 versions and 140 versions of different designs. These Mayhems logos ones are one off's though.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> They are complete (well not all) This is the complex (ive been told) rad grills. from Mayhems Tech. As said the first 60 rads get them free of charge.
> 
> More Registered designs will be released soon. There will be 120 versions and 140 versions of different designs. These Mayhems logos ones are one off's though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah they look great man


----------



## pmac

Where do we get one of those? I don't have any grills but they don't look very restrictive and look great.


----------



## Mayhem

The design is made for its about 95% efficient. Like all grills you do lose some but not much compared to some designs. You cannot buy them as they are free with the first 60 Havoc rads. We are making a "None Logo" Version soon and they will appear on the site once were ready to go.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Nvm


----------



## Deepsouth1987

That Mayhem coolant goodness









http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0103_zps79ed4c18.jpg.html

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0102_zps6c6ab4cb.jpg.html


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Anyone managed a coolant color that matches this?



I'd love to do a Pastel (or even clear) that is that color. It's like a medium/almost dark blue with a tiny touch of green, not enough to be aqua, but almost.

Here's a swatch of Carribean Blue.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> That Mayhem coolant goodness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0103_zps79ed4c18.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0102_zps6c6ab4cb.jpg.html


Still rocking that UD3 I see, with EK VRM block. About to add X1 Blue and some other new things this weekend to my UD3. Decided to pass on Aurora 2 for now, don't feel like taking the time to Blitz.


----------



## Mayhem

First real Photo of the Mayhems Tech Havoc Rad Grill designed and created by the Mayhems Tech team aka Toby. Got to say im impressed and the logo feels really solid. These rads grills come free with the first 60 Havoc Rads from Mayhems and you will not be disappointed.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Shame I really wanted one of those first 480 Havok rads but apparently shipping to the US is not an option.


----------



## Mayhem

If you contact [email protected] they can sort out shipping. Due to their weight we will work out the shipping cost manually. Nice bit of personal services so you don't have your eye balls ripped out via shipping.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you contact [email protected] they can sort out shipping. Due to their weight we will work out the shipping cost manually. Nice bit of personal services so you don't have your eye balls ripped out via shipping.


Thanks Mick. I filled out a contact form about it a little more than a day ago. I guess I'll continue to wait for a response other than the "thank you for contacting us" ..."Somebody will get back to you shortly Kind Regards Mayhems Product Support" I already got.


----------



## Mayhem

PM me you full details, what you need and email address and ill go kick some ass. Not real steve is doing well cos ive really overloaded him atm with work








but i will sort it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Done!


----------



## Menzies

Pastel Red in my almost finished modded Corsair 350D. What would be the best method to darkening it a little bit to get our closer to the other reds in the system?


----------



## Mayhem

Sorry cannot help my self these are so smexy (smutty and sexy). Mayhems Havoc 360 with the Mayhems tech Havoc rad grill


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Anyone managed a coolant color that matches this?
> 
> 
> 
> I'd love to do a Pastel (or even clear) that is that color. It's like a medium/almost dark blue with a tiny touch of green, not enough to be aqua, but almost.
> 
> Here's a swatch of Carribean Blue.


Ocean blue with a touch of green to darken I do believe would get ya there


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> First real Photo of the Mayhems Tech Havoc Rad Grill designed and created by the Mayhems Tech team aka Toby. Got to say im impressed and the logo feels really solid. These rads grills come free with the first 60 Havoc Rads from Mayhems and you will not be disappointed.


I assume these are "flippable" so that the curves can be put in same direction as fans ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menzies*
> 
> Pastel Red in my almost finished modded Corsair 350D. What would be the best method to darkening it a little bit to get our closer to the other reds in the system?


I used two bottle of Red Pastel to make 1.9L of coolant. Two months later I added two bottles of Mayhems Deep Red Dye .... color change was.... v e e e e e r r r r r y . slow. That took it to almost as dark as Asus / Mushkin Red


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menzies*
> 
> Pastel Red in my almost finished modded Corsair 350D. What would be the best method to darkening it a little bit to get our closer to the other reds in the system?


I used two bottles of Mayhems Deep Red Dye .... color change was.... v e e e e e r r r r r y . slow. That took it to almost as dark as Asus / Mushkin Red


----------



## Mayhem

you can flip if you wish







. If using rubber edged fans though be carefull when screwing it in as its flimsy and on 3mm thick.


----------



## Mayhem

As blocks get smaller impingement plates the fluids need to evolve. Mayhems Pastel was based on a 20 to 40nm Particle size how ever things move on. We've created from the ground up a new 10nm Pastel additive that is more advanced than anything in water cooling. Companies are now trying to copy mayhems work how ever we are years in advance of them and always have been. The new coolants will last from 3 to 5 years in a water cooling system.

Watch as we demo 15mls of the new additive making 3 ltrs of active coolant. This will save a fortune on shipping and will allow users to make any colour as they wish much cheaper than in the past. These new coolants are "patent pending" and are some of the most advanced cooling products in the world today for PC cooling.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> As blocks get smaller impingement plates the fluids need to evolve. Mayhems Pastel was based on a 20 to 40nm Particle size how ever things move on. We've created from the ground up a new 10nm Pastel additive that is more advanced than anything in water cooling. Companies are now trying to copy mayhems work how ever we are years in advance of them and always have been. The new coolants will last from 3 to 5 years in a water cooling system.
> 
> Watch as we demo 15mls of the new additive making 3 ltrs of active coolant. This will save a fortune on shipping and will allow users to make any colour as they wish much cheaper than in the past. These new coolants are "patent pending" and are some of the most advanced cooling products in the world today for PC cooling.


Hype! Need some of that stuff over here in Australia!


----------



## electro2u

How come UV coolant doesn't stay very UV for very long? I started out with EK clear/UV blue and the UV effect lasted about 2 weeks. I figured they or I did something wrong and recently replaced with Mayhems UV blue XT-1 and same experience, it sort of just dropped out all of a sudden. They even smelled the same lol!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> As blocks get smaller impingement plates the fluids need to evolve. Mayhems Pastel was based on a 20 to 40nm Particle size how ever things move on. We've created from the ground up a new 10nm Pastel additive that is more advanced than anything in water cooling. Companies are now trying to copy mayhems work how ever we are years in advance of them and always have been. The new coolants will last from 3 to 5 years in a water cooling system.
> 
> Watch as we demo 15mls of the new additive making 3 ltrs of active coolant. This will save a fortune on shipping and will allow users to make any colour as they wish much cheaper than in the past. These new coolants are "patent pending" and are some of the most advanced cooling products in the world today for PC cooling.


We ask you for 2liter premixes and you give us a concentrate capable of 3 liters, and lasts twice as long? Remind me not to order a tank from you, I don't know what I'd do with something like this. XD 

In all serious that's a pretty significant step up. Since it's such a small bottle does it still have all the surfactants and anti-corrosives in it, or did those take a hit for the team so to speak.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

It has the Biocide, Surfactants and Anti foaming agents needed in it, how ever it does not contain anti corrosives agents else we would only get 50ml per 1 Ltr. So if you wanted Anti corrosive agents you could mix with X1, XT1 to give you this protection.

The main thing this does it completely block out UV light and uses a natural biocide to stop things from growing. Also this is a Totally 100% safe product.









@electro2u any chance you could send us a sample to check out the issue.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It has the Biocide, Surfactants and Anti foaming agents needed in it, how ever it does not contain anti corrosives agents else we would only get 50ml per 1 Ltr. So if you wanted Anti corrosive agents you could mix with X1, XT1 to give you this protection.
> 
> The main thing this does it completely block out UV light and uses a natural biocide to stop things from growing. Also this is a Totally 100% safe product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @electro2u any chance you could send us a sample to check out the issue.


So essentially it's the Pastel version of the Aurora shots?

That's a pretty big step. Are you going to discontinue the normal pastel line then?

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

This is a more advanced version of pastel and its a complete side step from pastel as such. So much so this actually is even better at cooling than pastel and water how ever users will how to find out how different it is.

Updated the vid




Corrected a spelling mistake :/ lol

Been asked to show a Pic of How UV active it is. well this is a hand held single UV Led on the green ->


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @electro2u any chance you could send us a sample to check out the issue.


Well sure, I can do that.







But I'm not out to get any free stuff was just an observation. The point of the coolant was to keep corrosion and bio-organisms at bay, and it works fine as far as I can tell. I change out my coolant a lot so far in my H2O adventures and I'm just using Primochill Advanced LRT right now. Soon (before Yellowstone blows anyway) I will be changing to rigid Acrylic E22 and at that point I will want to have a long-term coolant chosen. I was wanting to come up with a Blue UV Pastel, but Ii'll skip the UV part unless I can keep adding dye to bring the UV component back to eye popping.
Here we have the before (actually this is almost a week in) with lighting coming in from outside during the day

And here is now (almost 3 weeks in) with no light... trying to give the UV every chance to shine.

I recognize the red lighting is not helping, but they are exactly the same red lights in both pictures. There is a lot of UV lighting all around the case, including a strip inside the 5.25" bay area.


----------



## Mayhem

We need to fix you issue or at least find out what the issue is and obv if its a issue with the fluids or not we will replace them free of charge any way that is the way Mayhems works.

But lets get you sorted and worry about that after.

If you PM me ill send you over what we would need and then we can go from there







.

Mick


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> How come UV coolant doesn't stay very UV for very long? I started out with EK clear/UV blue and the UV effect lasted about 2 weeks. I figured they or I did something wrong and recently replaced with Mayhems UV blue XT-1 and same experience, it sort of just dropped out all of a sudden. They even smelled the same lol!


Have you ever, at any point, used Mayhems Biocide Extreme, other copper sulphate addditives (I&H Deadwater, PT Nuke, etc.) or PT Nuke PHN (benzyl chloride) in that loop before?

-Z


----------



## VSG

If those 10nm particles (hydrodynamic diameter?) are what I think they are based on a previous PM, then congrats. Getting them consistently manufactured in the same size and diameter distribution on a mid-large scale isn't the easiest thing in the world.

Is there a good anticorrossive concentrate? If not, can we make one of there is access to chemicals? I am not sure if diluting this with X1 is the way to go tbh.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Have you ever, at any point, used Mayhems Biocide Extreme, other copper sulphate addditives (I&H Deadwater, PT Nuke, etc.) or PT Nuke PHN (benzyl chloride) in that loop before?
> 
> -Z


I have only used Primochill sysPrep and Liquid Utopia with plain distilled, with lots of distilled water flushing and diluting in between the 2 times I've gone with UV mixes. One was a premix and the Mayhems was a concentrate that I mixed extremely precisely.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If those 10nm particles (hydrodynamic diameter?) are what I think they are based on a previous PM, then congrats. Getting them consistently manufactured in the same size and diameter distribution on a mid-large scale isn't the easiest thing in the world.
> 
> Is there a good anticorrossive concentrate? If not, can we make one of there is access to chemicals? I am not sure if diluting this with X1 is the way to go tbh.


XT-1 is ethylene glycol based, there isn't much better anti corrosives than ethylene glycol. 15ml of the pastel shot into the X1 won't dilute it much, if at all. I've put more dye than that in before XD

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I have only used Primochill sysPrep and Liquid Utopia with plain distilled, with lots of distilled water flushing and diluting in between the 2 times I've gone with UV mixes. One was a premix and the Mayhems was a concentrate that I mixed extremely precisely.


Odd, I've mayhems clear/UV before and it lasted a long time, albeit I was using it with X1. CuSo4 and Benzyl chloride burn through UV effects pretty fast, so that's why I asked. Anyways, hope you get it sorted out.

-Z


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Odd, I've mayhems clear/UV before and it lasted a long time, albeit I was using it with X1. CuSo4 and Benzyl chloride burn through UV effects pretty fast, so that's why I asked. Anyways, hope you get it sorted out.
> 
> -Z


Much appreciated, I'm skeptical more and more of the PC LRT adv. tubing.


----------



## wolsty7

Looks like ill be holding on on the pastel, will definatly get some UV 10nm pastel green.








Hopefully shipping to Australia isn't to bad


----------



## HITTI

Is emerald green compatible with X1? Would there be any complications?

Also, I am located in the USA, how would I go about purchasing a bottle of emerald green?

This is in EU.

http://mayhems.co.uk/store/emerald-green-10ml.html


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Is emerald green compatible with X1? Would there be any complications?
> 
> Also, I am located in the USA, how would I go about purchasing a bottle of emerald green?
> 
> This is in EU.
> 
> http://mayhems.co.uk/store/emerald-green-10ml.html


Yap, Mayhems dyes work with any mayhems coolants.

-Z


----------



## HITTI

K kewl.

Thanks.

Now thing is, where I may purchase some emerald green in the usa?


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> This is a more advanced version of pastel and its a complete side step from pastel as such. So much so this actually is even better at cooling than pastel and water how ever users will how to find out how different it is.


Wow. Looking forward to this new Pastel. Any idea about release date?

Thanks Mick.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menzies*
> 
> Pastel Red in my almost finished modded Corsair 350D. What would be the best method to darkening it a little bit to get our closer to the other reds in the system?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I used two bottles of Mayhems Deep Red Dye .... color change was.... v e e e e e r r r r r y . slow. That took it to almost as dark as Asus / Mushkin Red


To darken mayhems red products, you need to SLOWLY add dark blue dye 1 drop at a time. You can add red dye until you are blue in the face....it takes that long and then you have a loop with a ton of dye in it. A couple drops of blue and the red will start to move towards a blood red.


----------



## DarthBeavis

Is this code still good?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

What are the current specs of the new pastel? What types of loops should or shouldn't you use it in? Is it as restrictive as the Aurora in what it can be used in?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> What are the current specs of the new pastel? What types of loops should or shouldn't you use it in? Is it as restrictive as the Aurora in what it can be used in?


Assumption would be it would have less issues than current pastel has, which is pretty close to none.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBeavis*
> 
> Is this code still good?


Somehow I suspect this overshadows my UV problem lol


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If those 10nm particles (hydrodynamic diameter?) are what I think they are based on a previous PM, then congrats. Getting them consistently manufactured in the same size and diameter distribution on a mid-large scale isn't the easiest thing in the world.
> 
> Is there a good anticorrossive concentrate? If not, can we make one of there is access to chemicals? I am not sure if diluting this with X1 is the way to go tbh.


To keep it at this concentrate we may have to look at mixing it with X1 or XT1. Personally Xt1 one be better due the fact it would take less concentrate. The spike is at 10nm how ever its not a perfect spike there is still a lot of randomness. This is why we would do with a system like we talked about in the past to get the perfect spike. How ever weve done well with having one on hand but i recon before we go retail we should get one and go for consistency across the range.

@DarthBeavis Code is all good. I re did the entire shop again and got rid of the old site. The new shp (shop.mayhems.co.uk) is now complete and fully mobile.


----------



## VSG

Yeah the system we spoke about is overkill for what you need, but pretty user friendly and reliable. You can even be sure and do measurements at higher than room temperatures to see how it would fare in in an average water loop. If you noticed multiple spikes, then you may want to (a) see what fitting algorithm was used and (b) account for number vs volume averaged distribution with the latter being more representive of multimodal distribution.

Enough nerd talk for now, when's this hitting retail you think?


----------



## Mayhem

Ive got to take it over to be tested and get " lab" results to confirm our findings. I think the zeta is also off as well so this needs double checking. Once we have all that we could be looking at sales how ever it will be limited due to the amount of time it takes to make. One thing to note though the 10nm is the particle size and does not include the coating sized..... Problem with several spikes is the several chemicals were using as some are of crystal and other are tubes...


----------



## VSG

Lol now I am pretty sure I know what this nanoparticle is. It's a bit of a hassle all right!

Like I said, I can help you out with a few measurements no problem if you want. This thing may well perform better than distilled water so I am excited for you and others alike.


----------



## Nomadskid

I can't wait to join this club.


----------



## error-id10t

Well, I'm keen to hear the results from the rad testing and what they tested against. I've been happy with the RX360 v2 and now V3.

Anyhow few comments from a basic WC setup. I don't have any method to filter my coolant so when I used the Blitz basic it was extremely frothy and took 4 times to empty and re-fill the system to get it out, even after those times some of it was still there.

I sold my GPU so yesterday I pulled it all apart and cleaned the blocks and res, after using X1 and since then XT1 happy to report everything looked nice and clean - but that Blitz stuff was still around. After I had done a manual clean the temps have dropped back to normal.

So if you don't have filtering you still need to do the manual clean-up which then brings into question.. if you're using the right stuff from the beginning, don't have a method to filter the water and simply want to give a nice scrub - do you really even need Blitz.

Now for some *help* please. I haven't been bothered with this because I change the coolant maybe every 10 months so lifting the system and "pouring" the water out hasn't been that painful but now I'm totally over it after the above experience. Refer sig for setup but I have the RP-452X2 Reservoir, what is the best way to get the water out of my system without this lift and pour method? The pump is of course in the res. Any and all help appreciated as I'm so over carrying, lifting and then pouring it out!

While I'm waiting for my new cards, this is what it looks like. Rad -> CPU block -> Res -> Rad. With GPUs it'll be Rad -> CPU block -> GPU block(s) -> Res -> Rad.


----------



## Mayhem

When we had that type res we added extra tubing so we could lift out the res through the front of the case and empty it out.


----------



## VSG

Is this from Primochill anything to do with Mayhems Pastel?


----------



## Mayhem

No we do not work with companies like primochill. This is primochills 2nd or 3rd attempt at copying Mayhems products there last one ended up destroying some ones Pc whom i know quite well. On there last attempt they slagged off nano partials and TN0 / ZNO so if this one is made up of the same then they are back tracking which doesn't surprise me. Ask them for there SDS sheet and i bet its blank again and doesn't comply to he chemicals standard agency again. If it does ill be totally surprised.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> When we had that type res we added extra tubing so we could lift out the res through the front of the case and empty it out.


+1. This is exactly how I got over that problem with a bay res, but I soon got fed up with the downsides of a bay res and swapped to a tube res instead. Each to their own though - not saying bay res are bad, but like everything in this world, they are not perfect and have there limitations/problems. YMMV of course.

Mark


----------



## Mayhem

Testers have received there rads and were allready getting some feed back such as "more screws needed" . There is only 4 smaller screws with the rads which we will add more in the future to fix this issue.









Lets see how it goes from there


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Testers have received there rads and were allready getting some feed back such as "more screws needed" . There is only 4 smaller screws with the rads which we will add more in the future to fix this issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see how it goes from there


What thread are the screws? M4? UNC 6-32? Might want to consider adding that info to the product pages.

I don't mind having to buy appropriate length screws, as I typically have to anyway for fans in push pull and have them all match, but it is good to know what the proper thread is needed so I can get them ordered before the rad arrives, if I don't already have the right ones.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Testers have received there rads and were allready getting some feed back such as "more screws needed" . There is only 4 smaller screws with the rads which we will add more in the future to fix this issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see how it goes from there


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What thread are the screws? M4? UNC 6-32? Might want to consider adding that info to the product pages.
> 
> I don't mind having to buy appropriate length screws, as I typically have to anyway for fans in push pull and have them all match, but it is good to know what the proper thread is needed so I can get them ordered before the rad arrives, if I don't already have the right ones.


The Havoc 360 sent to me for testing arrived safely late yesterday








Did a bit of a photo shoot this morning.

Should get it loaded into the test bench tonight and run 12 Thermal tests on it and the Restriction (Pressure Drop) Test.
Results won't be for at least 2 days - takes time to do the thermals properly









The screws are 6/32
My sample has 12 x 30mm and 4 x 6mm screws.



Inside a protective box was the kit sent - the Havoc 360 rad, Fan Grill and Blitz Part 2.
NOTE - I am unsure if all items are included in the retail package - Perhaps Mick can clarify.
 

  

On the rad box a label gives us the details - states that the rad has split fins, and as debated earlier, that is not what this rad has.
I like that the screw package was placed at the end of the box - not placed on top of the core

 

Temporary plugs are fitted in the ports - no alternative ports or bleeder port.

 

Triple Tube, Louvered Fins at 9 FPI pretty evenly spaced.

 

The Havoc does have a slightly higher FPI count over the RX360 V2

 

I am prepared to speculate at this stage, based on physical characteristics only with no testing done yet - that the Havoc 360 is a hybrid of the Coolgate (CG360) and The XSPC RX360 V2.
The pieces on the table all seem to be from the same puzzle, comparison data from testing should piece it all together.
As stated previously I have already tested the RX360 V2, since then thermal testing on a CG360 has also been completed










More soon


----------



## Mayhem

This is a retail Pack for the first 60 rads direct from us. After the first 60 only the blitz kit, rad, screws will be included. Also were upgrading the screw to the appropriate amount needed. All the rads come double boxed for shipping.

BYW loving the name Hybrid we should have thought of that.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> This is a retail Pack for the first 60 rads direct from us. After the first 60 only the blitz kit, rad, screws will be included. Also were upgrading the screw to the appropriate amount needed. All the rads come double boxed for shipping.
> 
> BYW loving the name Hybrid we should have thought of that.


Step 1: Add a DDC pump top to the end of the rad, step 2: Call it Havoc Hybrid, Step 3: ?, Step 4: Profit

-Z


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'm glad the issue of the screws came up. Thanks for the clarification fast_fate on their using 6/32 screws.









I have a 480 Havoc ordered and will definitely want to have enough black button head socket cap screws for push pull on it when it gets here.

I do have a question though. Will the quad pass design require or benefit most from having the direction of airflow in a certain direction through the rad, and if so, how to tell? IIRC I seem to recall discussions about other quad pass rads that the direction of airflow was important and why, but tbh I never really paid much more attention than that at the time as I didn't have a quad pass rad that it mattered on. I tried giving it a cursory search of OCN and google came up empty.


----------



## Mayhem

@Unicr0nhunter In all the testing we done we never saw a significant difference with air flow direction. How ever if we had to chose a best side for the fans to be pushing air into the rad i would say from the opposite side of the Water inlet and outlet.

@ZytheEKS I will guarantee that step 4 will never happen. and stop 1 nooooo DDC "NEVER" ...... D5 yeh ..... Not a fan of DDC whatsoever had way to many fail on me.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm glad the issue of the screws came up. Thanks for the clarification fast_fate on their using 6/32 screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 480 Havoc ordered and will definitely want to have enough black button head socket cap screws for push pull on it when it gets here.
> 
> I do have a question though. Will the quad pass design require or benefit most from having the direction of airflow in a certain direction through the rad, and if so, how to tell? IIRC I seem to recall discussions about other quad pass rads that the direction of airflow was important and why, but tbh I never really paid much more attention than that at the time as I didn't have a quad pass rad that it mattered on. I tried giving it a cursory search of OCN and google came up empty.


No Probs









Having a single set of ports your question about quad pass and air flow direction could be very relevant, depending on the coolant travel path.
However you won't have any choice about air flow direction if you think about mounting the rad and where the ports have to be.
Air flow direction is going to be dictated by where you mount the rad.

What could be of more relevance is the direction of the coolant flow, and this is where the chamber design gets interesting.
It's difficult to tell and impossible to photograph but what I see looking into the ports is....

a single row of tubes on each side,
A brass dividing plate separating the front and back of the chamber.
I poke a wire into the ports and the left and right side are separated, I have to assume the brass plate I can see is sectioned in the center, creating 4 chambers
What I think this means is that the coolant flow must go up and back down on the same side of the rad that it enters.
The coolant then crosses over to the other side at the back of the port chamber...(now on outlet side at rear of port)
Before going up the back and down into the front of the port chamber before exiting.



A cross section cut at the port chamber really would be handy to confirm the flow pattern of the tubes from the chambers.

Now the really interesting thing is that under that brass partition piece I mentioned that is visible is some dense foam like material between the core and the brass section.
The other side of the brass section looks soldered or brazed to the tank end (chamber) cover.
But that foamy material appears to be covering where one of the rows of tubes are.
Impossible to tell if it is fully obscuring that row of tubes as can't look at it from the no port side.

If it is though, then even though the rad has a triple tube construction only two sets of tubes are being utilized.
Leaving us with a quad pass,single tube 9 FPI assembly, consisting of 6 tubes per pass (as there are 12 tubes across the width of the core)

And if that is the case then it won't matter which port is used as inlet.

Tech Drawing to confirm ??


----------



## HITTI

@Mayhem
Are all testers for the rads fulfilled or do you need more testers? If they aren't fulfilled, I would like to become a tester.


----------



## Mayhem

Oky cos the rads are out here is the internal design so you guys understand more. Quad pass is the term used due to the flow path passing 4 times not the amount of chambers. There are 3 chambers and the first set uses 1 set of tubes the second set uses 2 tubes. The reason why the split is 1/2 is that the fluid stays in the chamber longer to allow it to pick up more heat than normal and then has a parallel run across the dead spots. In theory picking up more heat than a normal rad and slowing down fluid movement due to the amount of time the fluid spends inside the rad.



This is what they look like inside (so no one needs to cut them open)





As said from day one we do things a little differently. These rads are designed to use the flow of water more effectively.

So in effect this drawing is correct but using all tubes. The difference being it the flow path is 3d not just straight up and down.



Welcome to HAVOC .....

@HITTI We have handed out the allocation to testers already. Sorry


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Oky cos the rads are out here is the internal design so you guys understand more. Quad pass is the term used due to the flow path passing 4 times not the amount of chambers. There are 3 chambers and the first set uses 1 set of tubes the second set uses 2 tubes. The reason why the split is 1/2 is that the fluid stays in the chamber longer to allow it to pick up more heat than normal and then has a parallel run across the dead spots. In theory picking up more heat than a normal rad and slowing down fluid movement due to the amount of time the fluid spends inside the rad.
> 
> 
> 
> This is what they look like inside (so no one needs to cut them open)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As said from day one we do things a little differently. These rads are designed to use the flow of water more effectively.
> 
> So in effect this drawing is correct but using all tubes. The difference being it the flow path is 3d not just straight up and down.
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to HAVOC .....
> 
> @HITTI We have handed out the allocation to testers already. Sorry


Ok so re - probably best having the fans on the opposite side to the holes maybe best , I thought maybe you would have them on the side with the holes on , so the air hits the water on the side it enters first , and maybe having that side with slightly more cool air flow , probably splitting hairs either way ?


----------



## fast_fate

Yeah - my paint skills could have been better.
More like this but at the non port ends where I have verticals it's just the tank end changing the flow direction and there are no verticals internally.
I marked the brass cross section sort of 1/3 to 2/3 (sort of) for the tube spacing as it should be and as your reference picture indicates.
I am certain that the middle set of tubes is at the very least partially obstructed by the "material" that the brass chamber separator is compressed against the core with.
I'll get some detaile pics with measurements when it comes out of the chamber.

So one side of the rad is doing the brunt of the work in this design configuration....
having two passes on the side it enters, then two passes on the other side before exiting.
A radiator generally is most efficient at removing heat from the coolant when the coolant is hotter, meaning the inlet side will be more efficient that the outlet side, but we'll see.
The thermal testing will show how efficient this design is.

I'm sure the community appreciates the on hands interaction that you provide


----------



## Mayhem

Yup you're doing well and my paint skills are worse than yours







. What people will find is the chamfer will help remove air out of the system but its still a little harder to get air out than normal due to the design of the whole rad. So users will have to shake more than normal







.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah - my paint skills could have been better.
> More like this but at the non port ends where I have verticals it's just the tank end changing the flow direction and there are no verticals internally.
> I marked the brass cross section sort of 1/3 to 2/3 (sort of) for the tube spacing as it should be and as your reference picture indicates.
> I am certain that the middle set of tubes is at the very least partially obstructed by the "material" that the brass chamber separator is compressed against the core with.
> I'll get some detaile pics with measurements when it comes out of the chamber.
> 
> So one side of the rad is doing the brunt of the work in this design configuration....
> having two passes on the side it enters, then two passes on the other side before exiting.
> A radiator generally is most efficient at removing heat from the coolant when the coolant is hotter, meaning the inlet side will be more efficient that the outlet side, but we'll see.
> The thermal testing will show how efficient this design is.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure the community appreciates the on hands interaction that you provide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


yes indeed much appreciated !


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

So looking at the end chambers Mick posted (correct me if I'm mistaken) it looks like the flow would be symmetrical and wouldn't matter which port was the inlet or outlet, but I'm still not sure I understand yet why airflow going either certain direction through the rad would be better than the other way, but I'm sure the various independent testing will bear that out.

I do hope that it is the case that airflow intake from the side opposite the ports, and exhausting on the side with the ports, is better, so all the rads can be intaking cooler ambient air from outside the case though the rad, or that there really doesn't wind up being much of a difference either way.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Ok so re - probably best having the fans on the opposite side to the holes maybe best , I thought maybe you would have them on the side with the holes on , so the air hits the water on the side it enters first , and maybe having that side with slightly more cool air flow , probably splitting hairs either way ?


Even if one direction of airflow is a benefit over another it won't matter much if at all which side the fans are on, but rather which direction you have the fans facing, whether in pull or push, or push-pull. If Mick is correct that the opposite side of the ports as intake might be a slight benefit then you could have fans on the opposite side of the ports in push or on the port side in pull, or fans on both sides in push-pull.


----------



## Mayhem

We found going push / pull all though did improve its performance, wasn't drastic enough to go running down the hall way pulling off back flips







. This is the same with all rads though.


----------



## Bertovzki

Yeah copper is such an awesome conductor of heat , and so rapid I'm sure it wont matter what you do , but the design making the fluid stay longer is cool , no pun intended


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We found going push / pull all though did improve its performance, wasn't drastic enough to go running down the hall way pulling off back flips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This is the same with all rads though.


Speak for yourself! Here I am after I found out remounting a cpu block with a different TIM got me 0.5C lower temps.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know I want to order a 360/240 Havoc, just wondering what shipping across the pond (UK to Atlanta,GA US) will cost me and if u should wait till PPC gets some in. The retail pack looks soo tempting


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know I want to order a 360/240 Havoc, just wondering what shipping across the pond (UK to Atlanta,GA US) will cost me and if u should wait till PPC gets some in. The retail pack looks soo tempting


As expected shipping to the US is a bit pricy. I've got a 480 Havoc on the way. You can alsways check with them and see ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you contact [email protected] they can sort out shipping. Due to their weight we will work out the shipping cost manually. Nice bit of personal services so you don't have your eye balls ripped out via shipping.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We found going push / pull all though did improve its performance, wasn't drastic enough to go running down the hall way pulling off back flips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This is the same with all rads though.


Yeah push/pull isn't a necessity at all, however it sure does look sexy


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'll be _extremely_ surprised to find that push-pull doesn't make a significant performance improvement. I've never seen a rad yet that it didn't, even 30mm thick low fpi rads I've had very noticeable gains. Can't imagine that a 63mm quad pass rad would not see quite an improvement.

For example, Martin's testing which found that "_push/pull is still your best bet if cost is not a problem and that will hold true for all radiators_" because "_there is a pressure benefit_ _to doubling up on fans and this translates to about a 20-30% performance gain_"

I'll know soon enough for myself.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I personally think if you're going to use stacked radiators like those modular ones by AquaComputer (the modular airplexes), you're going to HAVE to use a push-pull configuration if you want adequate cooling (because sandwiching radiators, you can sandwich 2, 3 or whatever number you want, now you've got a 200mm thick radiator, you're either going to need some sanyo denkis or delta fans running at 6,000RPM or you're going to have to do a push-pull).

Though sandwich/stacking radiators isn't a common thing, I want to try it someday.


----------



## VSG

Yeah, I would be shocked if any rad doesn't significantly benefit from push-pull. Now exactly what "significant" is would be user dependant. For me, it's being able to hit the same temps at a lower overall noise level and then going cooler when benching.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I plan on putting my lower rad in p/p with deltas if the two I want are still up for grabs on Friday








Yeah I know shipping from across the pond can be pricey in most cases, especially with chemicals etc


----------



## HackJoe

Hoping someone here could answer this for me. My Parvum ITX Enthusiast build MOD04 is almost ready for coolant. I use Mayhems Pastel Red in my FT03 build and for this one I'm leaning toward one of Mayhems black coolants.

So, whats the main differences between *Pastel Pure Black* and *X1 Oil Black*? Could I use Mayhems O2 and once the loop is leak tested add a Dye for either of these options? I read on this thread Mayhems have a new Pastel coming out (out already?) any ideas on when it'll be available?

J.


----------



## Mayhem

X1 oil black is a very deep green oil black and pastel black is a deeper lighter type black.

Shipping to USA for a 480 was £35 if i remember correctly and its been set up in the shop so you can buy it direct. We have managed to get it cheaper for a short period of time because it was £70.00 before.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yup just checked shipping on a 240 will be $60.12 (USD) looks like I'll be patient till I get my Christmas bonus


----------



## Mayhem

Darth fire me you full shipping details and what you would like to order we can maybe get it cheaper depending on weight.


----------



## cyphon

@fast_fate, looking forward to seeing your results on the havoc








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Unicr0nhunter In all the testing we done we never saw a significant difference with air flow direction. How ever if we had to chose a best side for the fans to be pushing air into the rad i would say from the opposite side of the Water inlet and outlet.
> 
> @ZytheEKS I will guarantee that step 4 will never happen. and stop 1 nooooo DDC "NEVER" ...... D5 yeh ..... Not a fan of DDC whatsoever had way to many fail on me.


Lol I'm with ya. Every DDC I've had has failed. Every D5 I've had still runs strong.


----------



## Trigger31

Will the Mayhems Aurora 2 work with a Phobya 220 pump. This is simple loop


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Darth fire me you full shipping details and what you would like to order we can maybe get it cheaper depending on weight.


I have a feeling it's mainly due to UPS, lol but I'll shoot you a PM Mick when I get home (having to work a 13hr shift at the shop today)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'll be _extremely_ surprised to find that push-pull doesn't make a significant performance improvement. I've never seen a rad yet that it didn't, even 30mm thick low fpi rads I've had very noticeable gains. Can't imagine that a 63mm quad pass rad would not see quite an improvement.
> 
> For example, Martin's testing which found that "_push/pull is still your best bet if cost is not a problem and that will hold true for all radiators_" because "_there is a pressure benefit_ _to doubling up on fans and this translates to about a 20-30% performance gain_"
> 
> I'll know soon enough for myself.


It probably will on the higher fin density Havoc rads, assuming Mick still plans on having Mayhems make em, but @ 8FPI I could imagine maybe a 7-8% performance gain from push pull.

-Z


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It probably will on the higher fin density Havoc rads, assuming Mick still plans on having Mayhems make em, but @ 8FPI I could imagine maybe a 7-8% performance gain from push pull.
> 
> -Z


Martin found a 17% performance gain from an XSPC RS which is slightly less than 8 FPI, dual pass, and 35mm thick, and that's the lowest performance boost I've ever seen push-pull add on any rad. Usually the performance boost by going push-pull will net you at least 20% to the more typical ~30% seen on other ~60mm thick rads like an Alphacool UT or XSPC RX V2.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Martin found a 17% performance gain from an XSPC RS which is slightly less than 8 FPI, dual pass, and 35mm thick, and that's the lowest performance boost I've ever seen push-pull add on any rad. Usually the performance boost by going push-pull will net you at least 20% to the more typical ~30% seen on other ~60mm thick rads like an Alphacool UT or XSPC RX V2.


I stand corrected.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Well as it goes. I have an idea what the numbers should be since i allready have done all the testing as well as some buyers in the UK. How ever until the results from independent testers are shown these are irrelevant and its best for us just to hold our horses and wait and see how they come out. If they are far off the mark from what we've tested then id produce our results and re test again.

Atm we've done all we can and we've shown you all how we have designed and had the rads made for us. Yes we don't claim to hand build these our self's and yes we've had them made in china ect ect oh and yes there is some controversy which you all know about and can draw your own conclusions but lets see how things go


----------



## emsj86

I my using blue berry pastel and I have dark blue mayhem dye. Had anyone added dark blue to this pastel. Interested in how the color looks.


----------



## emsj86

Studied question bc I always used premix. But if I use just distilled water and mayhem dye what do I add pt nuke biocides and what else. I'm using all copper expect my ek nickel gpu block with clear primo chill tubing


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Studied question bc I always used premix. But if I use just distilled water and mayhem dye what do I add pt nuke biocides and what else. I'm using all copper expect my ek nickel gpu block with clear primo chill tubing


Are you using dyes or a coolant concentrate/premix, eg. X1, XT-1, or Pastel? You shouldn't add biocides if you're using coolants, if you're just using distilled and a dye then all you need is PT Nuke (NON PHN!!!) PT Nuke PHN will obliterate dyes. Keep in mind PT Nuke (Non pHN) is copper sulphate, and copper sulphate doesn't work well with UV reactive dyes, so if you're going the boicide route don't plan on having any UV dyes.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Are you using dyes or a coolant concentrate/premix, eg. X1, XT-1, or Pastel? You shouldn't add biocides if you're using coolants, if you're just using distilled and a dye then all you need is PT Nuke (NON PHN!!!) PT Nuke PHN will obliterate dyes. Keep in mind PT Nuke (Non pHN) is copper sulphate, and copper sulphate doesn't work well with UV reactive dyes, so if you're going the boicide route don't plan on having any UV dyes.


In running pastel premix. Do I need to add anything to it? Also if I was to switch to just distilled and dye. What all is needed? Thank you edit: sorry misread you pretty much answered this allready


----------



## VSG

Some pics of the Havoc package:


----------



## Mayhem

I just love the work Toby has done on the rad grill.... And i normally hate rad grills to death.


----------



## emsj86

These grills are running off me too. Going to put them up for sale outside of the first 60 rafs


----------



## VSG

Yeah, I dropped the grill down to the floor 2-3 feet below by mistake while it was in the plastic cover but absolutely nothing happened. There is enough leeway so that warning sticker should hopefully never serve its purpose.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *No we do not work with companies like primochill.* This is primochills 2nd or 3rd attempt at copying Mayhems products there last one ended up destroying some ones Pc whom i know quite well. On there last attempt they slagged off nano partials and TN0 / ZNO so if this one is made up of the same then they are back tracking which doesn't surprise me. Ask them for there SDS sheet and i bet its blank again and doesn't comply to he chemicals standard agency again. If it does ill be totally surprised.


On this we agree.


----------



## Mayhem

bit off topic but I got my CPC this week Well done B-Neg on being on the readers drives.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> bit off topic but I got my CPC this week Well done B-Neg on being on the readers drives.


Thanks!


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I've two alphacool radiators that are new, unused and unflushed. Would the Blitz Basic cleaner be enough to clean it or should I go pro? If it's just highly concentrated phosphoric acid, I have a lot of that on hand, could I dilute and use that to clean the radiators?


----------



## tarui04

1. what's the difference between the blitz pro and blitz basic?

2. I read in 1 youtube video that mentioned about pouring the blitz pro 1 and 2 into the wc and letting it run but another video link says I cannot expose the solutions to watertubing, pumps and other parts except the waterblocks and radiators. can someone clarify this?

3. lastly, my wc loop is as follows. While I am sure the cpu and gpu waterblocks and xt45 are full copper, I am unsure about the swiftech radiator and my mosfet block has a nickel plating (ek mosfet waterblock with EN nickel plating) is it still safe to use the blitz pro? or should i just add the blitz pro to the waterblocks and radiators except the nickel plated block?

swiftech mcr 320QP res
alphacool xt45 240mm
ek supreme HF copper acetal.
EK mosfet waterblock with nickel plating (EN)
AQC 290x waterblock. plexi-copper.

tubing is clear primochill crystal advanced lrt.


----------



## madmalkav

Part 1 is only for radiators. Alphacool radiators seems to be one of the brands that need it the most.

Part 2 is for use in the whole system.

This two part video is the official guide on how to use Blitz products:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOR7SFYbcZ8&list=UUraxoRSkOk-wBBfpw7fO3xg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_IBHnUc3PM&list=UUraxoRSkOk-wBBfpw7fO3xg

PS: Mayhem , when you say in the video that Blitz Pro cleans radiators "better than new", you should explain why, because without an explanation it just sounds like an overwritten infomercial catchline.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> I've two alphacool radiators that are new, unused and unflushed. Would the Blitz Basic cleaner be enough to clean it or should I go pro? If it's just highly concentrated phosphoric acid, I have a lot of that on hand, could I dilute and use that to clean the radiators?


You'll need part 1 for the rads. If you have phosphoric acid, then you may be able to make a solution yourself. I am not sure what the concentration is or if Mayhem would share it with you. Gonna give ya the 'better safe than sorry' instructions and say, just get the blitz pro and use that. If it did destroy the rad, you'd probably have a case for them to replace it for ya versus doing it yourself.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarui04*
> 
> 1. what's the difference between the blitz pro and blitz basic?
> 
> 2. I read in 1 youtube video that mentioned about pouring the blitz pro 1 and 2 into the wc and letting it run but another video link says I cannot expose the solutions to watertubing, pumps and other parts except the waterblocks and radiators. can someone clarify this?
> 
> 3. lastly, my wc loop is as follows. While I am sure the cpu and gpu waterblocks and xt45 are full copper, I am unsure about the swiftech radiator and my mosfet block has a nickel plating (ek mosfet waterblock with EN nickel plating) is it still safe to use the blitz pro? or should i just add the blitz pro to the waterblocks and radiators except the nickel plated block?
> 
> swiftech mcr 320QP res
> alphacool xt45 240mm
> ek supreme HF copper acetal.
> EK mosfet waterblock with nickel plating (EN)
> AQC 290x waterblock. plexi-copper.
> 
> tubing is clear primochill crystal advanced lrt.


Blitz pro contains both Part 1 and Part 2 of the blitz system. Blitz basic is just part 2. Part 1 is needed to clean new rads only. You put it directly in the rad and it does not touch anything else in the system. Part 2 is a full system clean and surfacant. It will pull dyes left in your system, help remove any particles stuck in the loop, etc.

I would not pour 1 into 2. They serve two purposes and should be done in steps. If you were supposed to mix, it'd be sold as a single solution to run.

Again, Part 1 should never touch your blocks,pumps,tubes,anything not a radiator, so you do not need to worry about having nickel blocks. Do not put part 1 in your whole system, cannot stress that enough


----------



## fast_fate

*Mayhems Havoc 360*



*Thermal Test Results*



As Mayhems is aware, the test sample sent to me is for inclusion in a large round up 360mm radiators.
So, I will not be posting any comparison data in here right now, nor offering any opinions or other information








Just some data.....
But once the round up is published all the comparison data will be available against at least 15 other 360mm rads, and that's just stage 1 of the round up.









The tests are fan RPM based using Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans in Push&Pull and in such is really only comparable to other testing done with the same fans.
So until the RRU'15 is published, the data posted below is really to get some thermal data available for the Havoc 360









So..... here's what I am prepared to release now,

Delta T's are a vital part of a Radiators Thermal Performance calculations, so here's the info in bar chart and plot curve formats...





And the actual Performance Measurement - presented in Watts Dissipated per 10 Delta T - W/10ΔT





Thanks to Mayhems for the sample and opportunity to put it under scrutiny.
Hope that OCN members find the info useful


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You'll need part 1 for the rads. If you have phosphoric acid, then you may be able to make a solution yourself. I am not sure what the concentration is or if Mayhem would share it with you. Gonna give ya the 'better safe than sorry' instructions and say, just get the blitz pro and use that. If it did destroy the rad, you'd probably have a case for them to replace it for ya versus doing it yourself.
> Blitz pro contains both Part 1 and Part 2 of the blitz system. Blitz basic is just part 2. Part 1 is needed to clean new rads only. You put it directly in the rad and it does not touch anything else in the system. Part 2 is a full system clean and surfacant. It will pull dyes left in your system, help remove any particles stuck in the loop, etc.
> 
> I would not pour 1 into 2. They serve two purposes and should be done in steps. If you were supposed to mix, it'd be sold as a single solution to run.
> 
> Again, Part 1 should never touch your blocks,pumps,tubes,anything not a radiator, so you do not need to worry about having nickel blocks. Do not put part 1 in your whole system, cannot stress that enough


Very good point on if it ruins it they'll fix it (i.e. Mayhem has enough knowledge on the chemical reaction involved with posphoric acid and copper that they aren't worried about it ruining copper- generally it creates an oxidative layer that's protective.)

The issue is the molarity, relative speed of reactivity and other metals in the loop (such as plating). I don't think you want to use phosphoric acid on plated metals like my waterblock. However the radiator would be fine. The question is what molarity/concentration? 85% doesn't mean much to me, I prefer going by molarity. I believe 85% phosphoric acid is around 15 molar.

As far as part 2 goes, that's a neutralizing detergent that's non-ionic (organic compound w/o ionic bonding/salt formation)?


----------



## Malpractis

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> *Mayhems Havoc 360*
> 
> 
> 
> *Thermal Test Results*
> 
> 
> 
> As Mayhems is aware, the test sample sent to me is for inclusion in a large round up 360mm radiators.
> So, I will not be posting any comparison data in here right now, nor offering any opinions or other information
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some data.....
> But once the round up is published all the comparison data will be available against at least 18 other 360mm rads, along with opinions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I will post up now is some of the Havoc 360 data - including Push only Vs Push/Pull
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The _Push Only_ testing was done with the fans fitted to the non port side.
> I did attempt testing in Push Only with fans fitted to the port side, but the airflow and temp sensor placement isn't really set-up for a reverse air flow, so I had to cancel those tests and was unable to get data on that installation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tests are fan RPM based using Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans and in such is really only comparable to other testing done with the same fans.
> So until the RRU'14 is published, the data posted below is really to get some thermal data available for the Havoc 360
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So..... here's what I am prepared to release now,
> 
> First a couple of the screen shots taken that the charts data come from - think of them as data points that make up the charts (also evidence)
> 
> 
> 
> Delta T's are a vital part of a Radiators Thermal Performance calculations, so here's the info in bar chart and plot curve formats...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the actual Performance Measurement - presented in Watts Dissipated per 1 Delta T - W/ΔT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to Mayhems for the sample and opportunity to put it under scrutiny.
> Hope that OCN members find the info useful






Nice FF! Looking forward to your round up









Those first screenies, is that Aquasuite showing the temp data?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> 
> Nice FF! Looking forward to your round up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those first screenies, is that Aquasuite showing the temp data?


Thanks









Yeah it is AquaSuite showing the temps.
The test chamber has two Aquaero XT's connected via USB to laptop so I can have virtual sensors (averages of the physical sensors) for each side - input & output.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

For getting one of these 480 Havoc radiators to the US am I gonna need to order from your UK site?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

How many radiators (assume they're 480 to 560mm) can one order of Blitz Pro clean?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> How many radiators (assume they're 480 to 560mm) can one order of Blitz Pro clean?


The US version gives you 1 liter of Part 1- that's barely enough for 2 average quad rads based on the volumes I measured. Of course if you are talking about something like the 480 Monsta, then it alone consumes close to 900 mL. I should really ask Mick for a frequent buyer certificate given how much Blitz I have used up so far on the quad rads.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

This is somewhat the reason I want to use my own reagents to do this. I've got a couple litres of 14.8 molar phosphoric acid, and I can purchase Benzalkonium chloride either in reagent form (>95% purity), or I can find it in solution- the question is what are the conentrations and is the banzelkonium used to neutralize remaining anions from the phosphoric acid sln? What surfactants are used? Is it similar in makeup to star-san or quat?

$40 a pop for less solution than required to clean two radiators seems steep considering the concentrations and reagents used. I'd have to spend $80 off the bat just to get my radiators clean for the first use. I mean blitz is great stuff (at least the stuff I've used for cleaning jewelry and coins), amazing for jewelry and precious metals, also great for getting rid of rust but I'm removing flux, not rust...

My degree is chemistry so I love to try to figure these things out myself, but I mainly deal with organic synthesis, not metals and inorganics. (Though that's a Huge thing here in Nevada, I'm surprised I haven't taken more chemistry courses related to mining).


----------



## VSG

Look at the MSDS for the two parts, it's pretty much mentioned in there. Part 2 gives 4 liters though so I wouldn't bother much about trying to get it done. I would have used my own concoction as well but wanted to be consistent with a retail solution others could use, since it was for a review.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Well part two seems to be a cationic neutralizing agent, meaning any residual anions from the phosphoric part 1 would be neutralized and carried away.


----------



## Mayhem

Any samples we sent out for reviewers are retail samples and are not hand picked







.

Our Blitz MSDS gives you the info you need to make you own copies if you wish but we cannot put more than we do in the retail packs due to restrictions in place in different countries.

@fast_fate thank you for your hard work ill now have some work on my hands







.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Well is there gonna be a US retailer?
I see they are for sale on the co.uk site at roughly 125 for a quad and 100 for a 360, but I can barely trust my country's postal service not to screw up my products locally, let alone with international shipping.
I'd rather pay UPS or fedex 25-30$ than pay 50 for USPS international and have it show up a mangled heap of copper,


----------



## Mayhem

The items are Guaranteed for the full amount via the post so if it is damaged we will replace it and its double boxed for convenience. As you can see we've shipped world wide with no issue so far.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Any samples we sent out for reviewers are retail samples and are not hand picked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Our Blitz MSDS gives you the info you need to make you own copies if you wish but we cannot put more than we do in the retail packs due to restrictions in place in different countries.
> 
> @fast_fate thank you for your hard work ill now have some work on my hands
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I believe you guys aim to have quality production on every unit you produce (whether radiators, dye or cleaning agent)









I'm just curious if (considering I am also planning on adding another radiator or two to the build) it would be cheaper to try to clean the flux with a cheaper, homemade concoction for the first cleaning, and leave the actual Blitz Pro for the first 'real' cleaning, by real cleaning I mean after a year of use, when there's oxidation and corrosion present.

With flux, I have no clue what kind of solvent would be the best, but as far as solder flux, acid like phosphorous wouldn't even be needed to solvate anything that was left over. I don't know enough about copper fluxes though to figure out what kind of solvent would clean it without causing any issues with copper.


----------



## Mayhem

White vinegar and hot water cleans a lot of rads good enough then use Bicarbonate of soda afterwards to realign the PH levels. This is the perfect solution for most new rads just some need the blitz kit. You will find though the Blitz pro Kit is far more aggressive because it uses phosphoric acid and wetting agents and will always do a better job, if your rad is allready clean then this could be over kill.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I've got a ton of phosphoric acid, just don't have the same surfactant that would be used in blitz. Would diluting the phosphoric to say 0.1M be a good ratio to use vs acetic acid? I could also mix acetic with phosphoric. I have a ton of reagents but I've never tried to use them as cleaning agents hehe







<3 chemistry btw.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Oh I almost forgot to mention i'm going to be using your Pastel dye in my loop, and I'd like to get a near Aqua-blue (more toward sthe blue side) color going, but I'd like it to be rich and dark in color, not bright and fluorescent. Do you have any suggestions or can I order a custom mix of colored coolant? Would Love to get the color similar to a dark Caribbean blue!


----------



## TheDarkLord100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Are you using dyes or a coolant concentrate/premix, eg. X1, XT-1, or Pastel? You shouldn't add biocides if you're using coolants, if you're just using distilled and a dye then all you need is PT Nuke (NON PHN!!!) PT Nuke PHN will obliterate dyes. Keep in mind PT Nuke (Non pHN) is copper sulphate, and copper sulphate doesn't work well with UV reactive dyes, so if you're going the boicide route don't plan on having any UV dyes.


Finally a definite answer for what to add with distilled water and mayhem dye, got a link for any products I could buy ?

I've been told by some that silver coil will do the trick but others said no for coil and dye


----------



## Mayhem

If you check out http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/distributors for listing to resellers or you can use our shop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheDarkLord100*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Are you using dyes or a coolant concentrate/premix, eg. X1, XT-1, or Pastel? You shouldn't add biocides if you're using coolants, if you're just using distilled and a dye then all you need is PT Nuke (NON PHN!!!) PT Nuke PHN will obliterate dyes. Keep in mind PT Nuke (Non pHN) is copper sulphate, and copper sulphate doesn't work well with UV reactive dyes, so if you're going the boicide route don't plan on having any UV dyes.
> 
> 
> 
> Finally a definite answer for what to add with distilled water and mayhem dye, got a link for any products I could buy ?
> 
> I've been told by some that silver coil will do the trick but others said no for coil and dye
Click to expand...

Silver will help but its a poor substitute for a 'proper' Biocide,by the time silver reaches the required active concentrations the breeding has long been established.
I used to recommend silver all the time,now...less so,its just not as relevant anymore.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheDarkLord100*
> 
> Finally a definite answer for what to add with distilled water and mayhem dye, got a link for any products I could buy ?
> 
> I've been told by some that silver coil will do the trick but others said no for coil and dye


Pretty much this vvv Silver works, but not as well as a proper biocide. Stick with X1 or copper sulphate. -Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Silver will help but its a poor substitute for a 'proper' Biocide,by the time silver reaches the required active concentrations the breeding has long been established.
> I used to recommend silver all the time,now...less so,its just not as relevant anymore.


----------



## Mayhem

The best way to use silver is to create a collide.

What you do is create a collide e.g -> http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-COLLOIDAL-SILVER-Easy/ and then use that. You can straighten out silver coils to do this and it will make about 25 / 50 Ltrs of colloidal silver

Or take silver drop it in a 1 Ltr bottle of pure water and leave for a few weeks, you need to shake the bottle regularly (keep out of direct sunlight and in a cool place). Then use. How ever it will not be as potent as above.

When using silver only use with copper blocks and its best to keep the system out of direct sunlight and do not use UV lights.

Silver does work but maybe 0.1% (if you're lucky) of people use it correctly.

Using Collide and or silver will make you fluid highly conductive compared to a premixed or concentrate coolant.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I have a kill coil in my loop along w/ Mayhem's Blue and red dyes and have yet to have any growth, but I also flushed my components w/ Distilled for 4+ hours w/ an inline filter to catch any debris. Also prior to adding the Dyes I made sure my PH was Neutral/Stable as well







Now I do plan on moving my Frankenstein build into a new case over the winter as I'm tired of my current desk and tired of having my case on my desktop, so I plan to eventually build a desk that can house Frankenstein so my want for the Havoc 240's will rise to possible a couple 360's or possibly a pair of 480's to allow for added components (ie: memory, HDD, and GPU waterblocks)


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> When using silver only use with copper blocks and its best to keep the system out of direct sunlight and do not use UV lights.


I'm reading this as--do not use silver with Nickel coated blocks?

P.S. Mick, I haven't had a chance to send the samples yet, but I'm still going to. Have some re-configuring to do in the next week or so and then I will have a package on the way across the pond for you. Thanks again.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yes - use silver coils w/ copper based blocks only, they cause issues w/ nickle plated blocks


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yes - use silver coils w/ copper based blocks only, they cause issues w/ nickle plated blocks


That's pretty much what I came away from the more advanced-seeming debates that raged across the WaCo community over the last few years as silver has become less and less relevant. I assumed this was because of the rise of Nickel-plated coatings.

This is why I find it particularly strange that Monsoon uses silver in their/his fittings. It can't be a catastrophic or easy to trace issue or I don't think Geno would be doing that.


----------



## TheDarkLord100

Thanks, I just bought a Mayhems Biocide Extreme bottle


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheDarkLord100*
> 
> Thanks, I just bought a Mayhems Biocide Extreme bottle


Biocide Extreme is copper sulphate with some descaling agents, so be advised it will eat any UV effect dyes. It works fine with normal dyes, but UV effects will deteriorate rather rapidly. Also be sure to test pH before and after adding the biocide, keep it within the recommended limits. The bottle should include strips and a pH guide.

-Z


----------



## TheDarkLord100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Biocide Extreme is copper sulphate with some descaling agents, so be advised it will eat any UV effect dyes. It works fine with normal dyes, but UV effects will deteriorate rather rapidly. Also be sure to test pH before and after adding the biocide, keep it within the recommended limits. The bottle should include strips and a pH guide.
> 
> -Z


Yup, it's being used with normal yellow dye and PH Strips will be used every now and then to make sure everything is cool. Thanks for the answer (you have no idea how many people I had to ask to get a %100 answer







)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yes - use silver coils w/ copper based blocks only, they cause issues w/ *poorly plated* nickle plated blocks


If the nickel strike is properly done and over 14 microns,there is no problem with silver,cosmetic plating that block manufacturers use is less than 14 microns. If its done well then no problem,if there is a pin hole then there is a solid chance of plating failing.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If the nickel strike is properly done and over 14 microns,there is no problem with silver,cosmetic plating that block manufacturers use is less than 14 microns. If its done well then no problem,if there is a pin hole then there is a solid chance of plating failing.


Unfortunately most companies don't bother to do properly thick plating, so you're more often than not forced to take that precaution.









-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yes - use silver coils w/ copper based blocks only, they cause issues w/ nickle plated blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's pretty much what I came away from the more advanced-seeming debates that raged across the WaCo community over the last few years as silver has become less and less relevant. I assumed this was because of the rise of Nickel-plated coatings.
> 
> This is why I find it particularly strange that Monsoon uses silver in their/his fittings. It can't be a catastrophic or easy to trace issue or I don't think Geno would be doing that.
Click to expand...

Monsoon coats there fittings with a UV cured lacquer so the silver is not in direct contact with the water / fluid. So this should never have an effect unless the coating is nicked but then again it should be fine for all intense purposes. We run Silver plated fittings form Monsoon in our equipment and have done now for over 6 months (i think) with no issues what so ever. Belve me if something can be destroyed with chemicals we will do it on purpose or by accident.









One thing to note though is water is a has a natural cutting ability and will eventually wear down the coating given time how ever asking how long would be like asking how long a piece of string.

As for the above info on plating that something we cannot go into as so far" touch wood" we have never had a block fail on us .......... yet .........


----------



## Jakusonfire

And yet they call it "Anti microbial" ... if it is laquered off from the water it can't be very anti microbial.


----------



## Mayhem

I really do not know and would not like to comment on something like that. I make enough mistakes on naming my own products never mind any one elses.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The UV cured clear epoxy coating on Monsoon's fittings is only on the exterior (non water passage surface) of the silver base part. That's only to help keep the outside from getting tarnished like silver will do especially if it has finger oils and such left on it. The inside of the fitting has no coating so the silver coating serves it's antimicrobial purpose. Just ask Geno.(BoxGods)


----------



## Mayhem

We did and thats what he told us. When i marketed a Monsoon fitting you could see the clear coating and under a microscope you can see it on the inside. I have the email / pm somewhere. as said we've had no issues what so ever. I dont have any pics left from before but i do have spare monsoon fittings and i don't mind scratching them again to show it but seems a little pointless as said we've never had an issue as of yet.

Mick


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We did and thats what he told us. When i marketed a Monsoon fitting you could see the clear coating and under a microscope you can see it on the inside. I have the email / pm somewhere. as said we've had no issues what so ever. I dont have any pics left from before but i do have spare monsoon fittings and i don't mind scratching them again to show it but seems a little pointless as said we've never had an issue as of yet.
> 
> Mick


I suspect you got mixed up somewhere Mick. When I had a discussion about it with Geno he explained it just like you wrote here:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> We (Mayhems) and Monsoon and many other re-sellers have been asked many times will Monsoon Silver plated fitting + (any coolant) work without any issue. Well here are some tests we've done for answers and also more detail about the fittings you need to understand and know.
> 
> So we've tested
> 
> Silver plated Monsoon Fittings + Glycol Coolant
> Silver Plated Monsoon Fittings + Polypropylene glycol Coolant.
> Silver Plated Monsoon Fittings + Glycerol based Coolant
> Silver Plated Monsoon Fittings + CU based Coolants (copper sulfate)
> Silver Plated Monsoon Fittings + Mayhem ultra pure base test (PPM count and PH test)
> 
> 1 fitting in every system is scratched and damaged on purpose and we have looked at the fitting under microscope and noted the damage (sorry we do not have a camera to show this)
> 
> Results and updates to be added below as they appear with testing scenarios....
> 
> *Mayhems test PCs*
> 
> *Mayhems Test PC 1*
> 
> EK CPU Block Plated
> EK MB Block Plated
> EK AMD &970 Plated
> Monsoon Bay res with 2 x Silver Bullets
> Monsoon Silver Plated fittings
> D5 Vario set to 5
> Rad Mayhem copper + brass test rad
> 
> *Mayhems Test PC 2*
> 
> XSPC Copper Raystorm
> Ek Copper GPU Block
> DDC
> Alpha Cool Monsta red
> Monsoon Silver plated fittings
> No res
> 
> *Mayhems Test PC 3*
> 
> Koolance block
> Copper GPU Block
> Plated MB Block
> Aquacomputer Ehiem pump + res
> Monsoon silver plated fittings
> Mayhems own made copper + alu + brass rad
> 
> *Mayhems Test PC 4*
> 
> Mayhem Own CPU Copper block
> EK plated GOU Block
> Waud pass full copper test rad
> EK Pump + res
> Monsoon Siver Plated Fittings
> 
> *More info*
> 
> CPU + GPU not identified and not needed for testing. Each PC was taken up to full load and an eqplimbrum of 95c cpu and 60c inline liquid temp over a minimum of 14 days. A mix of calibrated digital and analog temp sensors recorded the environment. We are within +/- 0.5c, PH, PPM and ORP readings were taken daily over test period times.
> 
> 
> 
> *Monsoon Fittings*
> 
> The new Silver Plated Fittings from Monsoon are machined from solid brass, nickel plated, then silver plated. *The last step is a marine grade UV cured clear epoxy coating on the exterior (non water passage surfaces)* to decouple the fitting electrically and chemically. This means these fitting are of highest standards released to the water cooling scene. Pictured below are some fittings we have bought for testing, some were all so sent to us by www.specialtech.co.uk and some fitting Geno sent to us.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *To get straight to the Point*
> 
> *After 14 days* Extra testing still going on.
> 
> Silver plated Monsoon Fittings + Glycol Coolant
> Silver Plated Monsoon Fittings + Polypropylene glycol Coolant.
> Silver Plated Monsoon Fittings + Glycerol based Coolant
> 
> There has been "NO" Sizable change in PPM, PH or ORP when using the above Coolant mixes when compared to using Brass or other plated fitting.
> 
> When the fittings are marked badly and deeply (we know this can happen via user error) there was no noticeable lifting or disintegration on the fittings and plating. These fitting are holding up to to some extreme temps that other fittings cannot contest to.
> 
> *
> To be updated*


----------



## Mayhem

Oky

Checked my email and yes you are right how ever we found a thin layer on the inside under the microscope (been a long day). But that could just have been a protective coating from product manufacturing. Id need to re do all the photo and double check because i don't have that info any more.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If the nickel strike is properly done and over 14 microns,there is no problem with silver,cosmetic plating that block manufacturers use is less than 14 microns. If its done well then no problem,if there is a pin hole then there is a solid chance of plating failing.


good to know, didn't know what specs the plating had to be done at to ensure little to no issues. Still personally I like the look of copper & gold blocks over Nickle plated, but that's just my preference


----------



## DRT-Maverick

So I have nickel-plated EK blocks, all nickel plated. Is this going to rule out the use of Monsoon fittings for my build? Should I switch over to EK or bitspower fittings or something similar instead of Monsoon? I do like monsoon's look though.


----------



## Mayhem

we have EK plated blocks GPU and CPU in with the monsoon fittings with no issues at all. Just make sure you use a coolant with inhibitors built in.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> we have EK plated blocks GPU and CPU in with the monsoon fittings with no issues at all. Just make sure you use a coolant with inhibitors built in.


Do you have an EK block with the plated fittings in the control loop? I'm curious if a nicked EK block with silver plated fittings would result in absolute disaster, or slow degradation.

-Z


----------



## crappy

I've bought the Blitz Pro cleaning system to give my rads a thorough cleaning before finally getting round to installing my loop. They've been through quite an ordeal having had most of the paint removed for a (now stalled) case mod, so most certainly need it.
https://flic.kr/p/cAxNDshttps://flic.kr/p/cAxNDs

My question to you guys is about part 2 of the cleaning kit. The pumps, res, fittings and tubing are all brand new and have never been used, so should i just mix a small amount of part 2 to give the rads an extra clean and ensure ph neutrality, rather than building the loop and running part 2 through the whole system? Or would it be best to run it through the whole system even though everything is new?


----------



## Mayhem

Its best to run part 2 though a entire loop and you'll be surprised some times what it can pick up.

@ZytheEKS Yes its in one of the control pcs and also my own parvum desk build in constant daily use.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

So run part 1 through just the copper, no plated, and 2 through the entire loop?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Do you have an EK block with the plated fittings in the control loop? I'm curious if a nicked EK block with silver plated fittings would result in absolute disaster, or slow degradation.
> 
> -Z


Seems as though this is OK to do with good anti-corrosives. However... what is the point of doing it if you are going to use anti-corrosives?

The Monsoon Silver coated fittings are a great idea for DI H20 (best possible performance liquid) and not having to use a coil. However, I personally would not do it unless I had an all copper block loop.


----------



## Mayhem

Yes that is correct as per the instructions.

-> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/files/msds-sheets/Blitz/Cleaning-1.pdf


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Seems as though this is OK to do with good anti-corrosives. However... what is the point of doing it if you are going to use anti-corrosives?
> 
> The Monsoon Silver coated fittings are a great idea for DI H20 (best possible performance liquid) and not having to use a coil. However, I personally would not do it unless I had an all copper block loop.


Well I have rigid tubing, and the monsoon rigid compressions are silver plated. I was wondering what the effects would be without in worst case scenario without inhibitors. I always use X1 so I have the corrosion inhibitors, but still good to know.

-Z


----------



## charliebrown

Ok i did a tower build earlier this year now im building a desk pc, but have a question i got pastel red in my system now with sp120 red rings. But noticed the pastel is more pinkish red than red on my desk i plan on using pastel again but does anyone know how can i make the red match those rings


----------



## Mayhem

Simply add more red dye. Some people use red led as well to hi light the red more


----------



## charliebrown

i think i might go with your x1 uv red this time heard good reviews on it


----------



## charliebrown

can i reuse the pastel red i have in there and add more because this new build might need two bottles the old coolant only was used since may of this year


----------



## HITTI

Mayhems Aurora Coolant

On frozencpu it states "Please read the Aurora Wiki before purchasing! "

404 Not Found
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/aurora-guide.html#.UKVDYYcpljU

If I use mayhems aurora do I need to still use X1?

I love how this looks and preparing to get some.


----------



## Mayhem

Aurora Guide -> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/guides/mayhems-aurora-guide

To reuse Pastel run it through a Coffee filter and reuse







. if storing it away store in a airtight container out of reach of children and out of reach of direct sunlight and at around 25c


----------



## HITTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Aurora Guide -> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/guides/mayhems-aurora-guide
> 
> To reuse Pastel run it through a Coffee filter and reuse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . if storing it away store in a airtight container out of reach of children and out of reach of direct sunlight and at around 25c


Aww that suxxx.
Quote:


> Aurora is "NOT" made for use in a home system. It has been developed for show System's (modding) and Photo work. If looking for a fluid for a Home system / Gaming system please use Mayhems X1 or Mayhems Pastel range of fluids there are fully tested and working in any kind of loop.


There are a lot of variations the system may fail because of this fluid. Very risky. This really blows. My heart was set on aurora purple...

I've got the EK supreme block which is not listed. Restriction plates are recommended to be removed. This stuff is for advance users.

Thank you for the guide and warnings I will be skipping this product. sad.


----------



## Soulkey

Hello all, new here, but I just had to drop in and say how incredible this fluid is. Two days ago I received 3 liters of Mayhems Pastel UV Yellow/Green, and damn am I blown away. Without any UV lights this stuff looks insanely cool, like toxic nuclear waste.

I purchased one single Darskside UV LED strip to accompany my coolant, I chose this product over phobya or logisis because of the build quality and the fact that they use the same factory as BMW uses to manufacture their projector LEDs.

Anyway, back to Mayhem coolant. As soon as I flipped on the UV the coolant reacted instantly and turned into a bright vivid acid green that looks as though it's going to start eating through my photon res or mutate some turtles or something. I had this coolant sitting in a regular glass cup for drinking to test if it was going to dye/stain my photon res, had it in there for hours and everything washed away clean.

At $19.99 bucks a liter I am extremely surprised at the quality of this coolant and have not regretting purchasing it for one second. In a roughly two weeks I will clean my blocks just to see if there is any "gunk" stuck in the fins. I am using XSPC premium tubing which Mayhem's website said was good to prevent any unwanted side effects so we will see how that goes.

Wooo for first post!!


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Can we get custom mixes of the pastel?


----------



## lowfat

Unfortunately my lens just can't capture the look of Aurora 2. Once I get a working computer I'll have to post a vid. It is Aurora 2 blue + a whole lot of blue/purple dye.


----------



## VSG

Try a 0.5-2 sec exposure if possible on a tripod/stand. I like it as it is too!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Try a 0.5-2 sec exposure if possible on a tripod/stand. I like it as it is too!


I found that the longer the exposure the less detail due to the blurring from the moving coolant. My lens is an f4 and it just isn't cutting it.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I found that the longer the exposure the less detail due to the blurring from the moving coolant. My lens is an f4 and it just isn't cutting it.


Isn't the Aurora effect best seen at low flowrates where the motion is also slow? Or am I barking up the wrong tree? Yeah, f/4 as it is results in longer exposure times but you will have to pry my 24-105 L from my dead hands before I give it up


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Isn't the Aurora effect best seen at low flowrates where the motion is also slow? Or am I barking up the wrong tree? Yeah, f/4 as it is results in longer exposure times but you will have to pry my 24-105 L from my dead hands before I give it up


I haven't actually ued the coolant in a system yet so I do not know. But in the cup the faster I stirred in a circle, the better it looked.

I love my f/4 17-40 L but it really only shines in w/ inanimate objects.

Someone on another forum pointed out a face in the picture above.


----------



## DarthBaggins

My fave is my thrifty 50mm canon lens f1.8


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Sorry, it seems that we have no shipping options available for your location.
Please check your shipping address and contact us if everything is okay. We'll see what we can do about it.
):


----------



## DNMock

I used the mayhems ocean blue dye, and it works great, now that I got it in and lit up, it's way too much green hue in it. I'm trying to get it pretty close to my components.



Any ideas on how I could push that into a more true blue color like the rest of everything I got going on in here?



That's what I was wanting,

I still have about half a bottle left over, will continuing to use more get me to my desired color or am i just kinda screwed here with a blue green.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I used the mayhems ocean blue dye, and it works great, now that I got it in and lit up, it's way too much green hue in it. I'm trying to get it pretty close to my components.
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas on how I could push that into a more true blue color like the rest of everything I got going on in here?
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I was wanting,
> 
> I still have about half a bottle left over, will continuing to use more get me to my desired color or am i just kinda screwed here with a blue green.


X1 or distilled with dye? My first reaction would be to dilute it, and add more normal blue dye.

-Z


----------



## Bertovzki

Ok , so I'm thinking I want UV Green / Emerald colour , I want it to look more clear than pastel , radio active toxic rich Green , or Green / Yellow radio active , is the yellow without lights very deep or is it a bit washed out ?

So definitely has to be UV ! for my build , I have a RX 360 V3 and will have a EX 280 also for my rad's ,and a EK Supremacy copper plexi CPU block and Aquacomputer Hawaii copper plexi GPU block , a Photon 270 D5/combo , EKHD rigid acrylic , so what would be the best plan for preparing my loop ? considering I have brand new rad's and also want to use UV fluid , and want protection against growth in my loop , a clean with the step 1 and some bi carb after to neutralize it ,and test with PH tester and X1 ? with a dye of my choice ?

Any feedback appreciated as I have never had water cooled loop


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> X1 or distilled with dye? My first reaction would be to dilute it, and add more normal blue dye.
> 
> -Z


Half and half because I'm ******ed and didn't cap off my drain plug after draining and wasted about half of the x1 i put in.


----------



## vilius572

Hello guys! Does it make sense if I buy pre-mix coolant or it doesn't matter?
I have already two bottles of pre-mix Pastel Yellow but it's time to change the coolant so I was wondering to buy concentrate.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Heads up people. the video in this post does not work > http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/7840#post_22816946


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Heads up people. the video in this post does not work > http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/7840#post_22816946


Guess you missed these a few posts later ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> There is a mistake in that video, ill be removing it and upping the corrected version today.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Video updated and corrected >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the copper ruler bit is better.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Guess you missed these a few posts later ...


I just followed the link in the first post so that probably needs to be updated with the proper link.


----------



## Ugooo

Hi guys,

I've been reading this thread for quitte a while now (almost 1 & half year I think, and yes, I read every single post ^^), Now it's time for me to start my own loop





















(And I'm uber exited ^^).

I'm planing to use a 360 rad and some Mayhems Pastel Green Pre-mixed coolant, thus, I'd like to know how much of it should I order ? I've literally got no idea ><.

It probably won't be an Havoc one ... I know, but : I've got a preference for the AX360's external frame gorgeous look. Then, which one of he Blitz Cleaning kits would you recommend to order/use on a brand new one ?









I can't wait to share my own mod worklog & final photos with you all







.

Thank's for your help,

Ugo.


----------



## Mayhem

With a 100ml res and gpu and cpu we only use 800mls of liquid how ever people with bay reservoirs or larger tube reservoirs use 1 ltr plus.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Ok , so I'm thinking I want UV Green / Emerald colour , I want it to look more clear than pastel , radio active toxic rich Green , or Green / Yellow radio active , is the yellow without lights very deep or is it a bit washed out ?
> 
> So definitely has to be UV ! for my build , I have a RX 360 V3 and will have a EX 280 also for my rad's ,and a EK Supremacy copper plexi CPU block and Aquacomputer Hawaii copper plexi GPU block , a Photon 270 D5/combo , EKHD rigid acrylic , so what would be the best plan for preparing my loop ? considering I have brand new rad's and also want to use UV fluid , and want protection against growth in my loop , a clean with the step 1 and some bi carb after to neutralize it ,and test with PH tester and X1 ? with a dye of my choice ?
> 
> Any feedback appreciated as I have never had water cooled loop


@Mayhem or someone , my previous post has gone unanswered , could someone please tell me if i am on the right track with my question regarding preparing new rads and also the fact i want to use UV reactive coolant.
I have been watching thread for a while now and think i know answer but would like to hear from the experts , and any feed back about getting a nice rich toxic green colour.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> @Mayhem or someone , my previous post has gone unanswered , could someone please tell me if i am on the right track with my question regarding preparing new rads and also the fact i want to use UV reactive coolant.
> I have been watching thread for a while now and think i know answer but would like to hear from the experts , and any feed back about getting a nice rich toxic green colour.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


If you're using pastel, blitz it. That's the guideline. Remember, you only need to use part 1 on the rad ONCE in it's lifetime. Any repeated use is serving no purpose other than to strip the patina. Part one is going to strip the flux, and anything else in the rad. Part 2 is going to bring everything in the rad into suspension and neutralize the pH. Then, mix pastel as advised with no other additives other than dyes. As for radioactive green, the Yellow/UV green is your best bet as far as I'm aware. Make sure you have UV cathodes if you go that route, LEDs don't do the trick. Cyphon can chime in more on this part, I'm better with transparent coolants, he's the pastel guy.









-Z


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Beautiful photograph.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I used the mayhems ocean blue dye, and it works great, now that I got it in and lit up, it's way too much green hue in it. I'm trying to get it pretty close to my components.
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas on how I could push that into a more true blue color like the rest of everything I got going on in here?
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I was wanting,
> 
> I still have about half a bottle left over, will continuing to use more get me to my desired color or am i just kinda screwed here with a blue green.


The color you have there is Perfect for what I want. I wonder if I can get that in pastel.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If you're using pastel, blitz it. That's the guideline. Remember, you only need to use part 1 on the rad ONCE in it's lifetime. Any repeated use is serving no purpose other than to strip the patina. Part one is going to strip the flux, and anything else in the rad. Part 2 is going to bring everything in the rad into suspension and neutralize the pH. Then, mix pastel as advised with no other additives other than dyes. As for radioactive green, the Yellow/UV green is your best bet as far as I'm aware. Make sure you have UV cathodes if you go that route, LEDs don't do the trick. Cyphon can chime in more on this part, I'm better with transparent coolants, he's the pastel guy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


Thanks man that is very helpful , I'm not sure if I want a pastel look or not ? as I have herd that the UV effect is not as strong as clearer fluids because of the opacity and therefore density for the UV light to penetrate , though i'm sure it will light the outer particles all the same.

So if I have clear and UV reactive , ( im not sure about X1 is it just a pastel ? ) my last question is if I want clear UV like yellow green , then what do I do for a bioside as silver not an option in my res ,and from what i understand out of the question for UV dye too as it breaks it down

So what is safest bioside type system to use for a UV fluid , i dont mind a pastel if it has bioside in it and can still achieve a good UV effect , and Yes I do have the best UV lights on the market 2 x 12" Darkside UV strips.

Also @Unicr0nhunter thanks for last post also very helpful as i had missed it before my last post.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Thanks man that is very helpful , I'm not sure if I want a pastel look or not ? as I have herd that the UV effect is not as strong as clearer fluids because of the opacity and therefore density for the UV light to penetrate , though i'm sure it will light the outer particles all the same.
> 
> So if I have clear and UV reactive , ( im not sure about X1 is it just a pastel ? ) my last question is if I want clear UV like yellow green , then what do I do for a bioside as silver not an option in my res ,and from what i understand out of the question for UV dye too as it breaks it down
> 
> So what is safest bioside type system to use for a UV fluid , i dont mind a pastel if it has bioside in it and can still achieve a good UV effect , and Yes I do have the best UV lights on the market 2 x 12" Darkside UV strips.
> 
> Also @Unicr0nhunter thanks for last post also very helpful as i had missed it before my last post.


Cyphon would be better to answer the UV pastel questions. Pastel and X1 both have all the biocides, surfactants, and corrosion inhibitors you need for a loop, completely different coolants. If you want UV effects and don't want to use coolant concentrates you're pretty SOL. Copper sulphate, i.e. mayhems biocide xtreme, I&H Deadwater, PT Nuke, etc. breaks down UV effects, and benzyl chloride (PT Nuke pHN) will obliterate any dye. If you want clear stick with X1, simple to use and cheap. XT-1 works too, just a different coolant base.

-Z


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Cyphon would be better to answer the UV pastel questions. Pastel and X1 both have all the biocides, surfactants, and corrosion inhibitors you need for a loop, completely different coolants. If you want UV effects and don't want to use coolant concentrates you're pretty SOL. Copper sulphate, i.e. mayhems biocide xtreme, I&H Deadwater, PT Nuke, etc. breaks down UV effects, and benzyl chloride (PT Nuke pHN) will obliterate any dye. If you want clear stick with X1, simple to use and cheap. XT-1 works too, just a different coolant base.
> 
> -Z


Ok thanks , still helpful ,but will continue question with Cyphon when hes online







, in the mean time I will look at the X1 and pastel a bit closer and read some.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Thanks man that is very helpful , I'm not sure if I want a pastel look or not ? as I have herd that the UV effect is not as strong as clearer fluids because of the opacity and therefore density for the UV light to penetrate , though i'm sure it will light the outer particles all the same.
> 
> So if I have clear and UV reactive , ( im not sure about X1 is it just a pastel ? ) my last question is if I want clear UV like yellow green , then what do I do for a bioside as silver not an option in my res ,and from what i understand out of the question for UV dye too as it breaks it down
> 
> So what is safest bioside type system to use for a UV fluid , i dont mind a pastel if it has bioside in it and can still achieve a good UV effect , and Yes I do have the best UV lights on the market 2 x 12" Darkside UV strips.
> 
> Also @Unicr0nhunter thanks for last post also very helpful as i had missed it before my last post.


Recommend cathode over led for uv. Pastel uv effects can be pretty darn good, just depends on your uv lights really.

X1 is a translucent fluid and is not a nano fluid like pastel is.

Both pastel and x1 have all Biocides/corrosion inhibitors/etc in the mix so you do not need to worry about anything else other than putting it in or adding di water and putting in if it is a concentrate


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Recommend cathode over led for uv. Pastel uv effects can be pretty darn good, just depends on your uv lights really.
> 
> X1 is a translucent fluid and is not a nano fluid like pastel is.
> 
> Both pastel and x1 have all Biocides/corrosion inhibitors/etc in the mix so you do not need to worry about anything else other than putting it in or adding di water and putting in if it is a concentrate


Ok so I thought it was the other way around and cathode not as good as darkside strips , i was going by the likes of this vid at the end :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSd6uXItSyM

So the biosides in X1 and pastels do not destroy UV reactive aspect ?

And I can boost Uv if I put more UV clear in ?

Basically I want to have UV effect what ever is easiest way to achieve it !

Thanks


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Ok so I thought it was the other way around and cathode not as good as darkside strips , i was going by the likes of this vid at the end :
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSd6uXItSyM
> 
> So the biosides in X1 and pastels do not destroy UV reactive aspect ?
> 
> And I can boost Uv if I put more UV clear in ?
> 
> Basically I want to have UV effect what ever is easiest way to achieve it !
> 
> Thanks


.

If you use the pastel or x1 uv fluids, they'll last decently long out of the box. And yeah, just pick up some extra dye and give it a couple drops more if you feel the effect is deteriorating.

Uv light contact really is the biggest factor in having a vibrant glow vs a slight glow. Make sure you plan your light placement well or you'll be disappointed in the effect


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> .
> 
> If you use the pastel or x1 uv fluids, they'll last decently long out of the box. And yeah, just pick up some extra dye and give it a couple drops more if you feel the effect is deteriorating.
> 
> Uv light contact really is the biggest factor in having a vibrant glow vs a slight glow. Make sure you plan your light placement well or you'll be disappointed in the effect


Cool thank you guys this answers my questions , about to do my 750D mods right now and start this build finally


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Cool thank you guys this answers my questions , about to do my 750D mods right now and start this build finally


Awesome, glad to help! Post pics back here for us


----------



## Ovrclck

Hi everyone, so I started tearing down my loop (swapping Bay res with tube) and noticed this sludge which looks milky with some green thrown in. I'm thinking this was caused due to vortexing? I'm using X1 clear with purple dye.


----------



## electro2u

^Woah

I'm thinking plasticizer + vortexing as you say? Not sure.

How long was the loop in service?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Hi everyone, so I started tearing down my loop (swapping Bay res with tube) and noticed this sludge which looks milky with some green thrown in. I'm thinking this was caused due to vortexing? I'm using X1 clear with purple dye.


List all the tubing you've ever used with the components in that loop. Plasticizers are a nightmare to clean, so it's very likely they could scale inside of components, then get pulled into suspension and deposit themselves into your block, like above.

-Z


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> ^Woah
> 
> I'm thinking plasticizer + vortexing as you say? Not sure.
> 
> How long was the loop in service?


Maybe a few months. Fresh build. I'm running acrylic except for maybe 3 ft of EK plasticizer free tubing between ped and top half.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Hi everyone, so I started tearing down my loop (swapping Bay res with tube) and noticed this sludge which looks milky with some green thrown in. I'm thinking this was caused due to vortexing? I'm using X1 clear with purple dye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> List all the tubing you've ever used with the components in that loop. Plasticizers are a nightmare to clean, so it's very likely they could scale inside of components, then get pulled into suspension and deposit themselves into your block, like above.
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

The acrylic looks clear though. Just the bay res. I had really bad vortexing going on.. Running my pumps full speed caused a foamy hurricane effect.


----------



## electro2u

I have a sketchy theory. Brand new build--bunch of acrylic and/or acetyl, right? Tiny particles of acrylic coming off the cut edges and threads get made larger over time by collecting with particles of plasticizer and end up deposited there due to vortex action. I get a little bit of it on my res also. I wonder if maybe the green is acetyl+plasticizer and the white is acrylic+plasticizer.

My theory is that when we screw in the fittings we're shearing off little tiny particles that are really too small to see until they start to congeal with something else and eventually get heavy enough to settle.

As I understand it there is no such thing as completely plasticizer free soft tubing.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I have a sketchy theory. Brand new build--bunch of acrylic and/or acetyl, right? Tiny particles of acrylic coming off the cut edges and threads get made larger over time by collecting with particles of plasticizer and end up deposited there due to vortex action. I get a little bit of it on my res also. I wonder if maybe the green is acetyl+plasticizer and the white is acrylic+plasticizer.
> 
> My theory is that when we screw in the fittings we're shearing off little tiny particles that are really too small to see until they start to congeal with something else and eventually get heavy enough to settle.
> 
> As I understand it there is no such thing as completely plasticizer free soft tubing.


That's an interesting theory. Hmm, also using Alphacool rads. I did rinse throughly, maybe the rads added to the mess? At this point, should I pick up part 2 blitz kit and see how it plays out? I really don't want to pull my rads apart from the pedestal if I don't have too. Glad I caught this now, imagine how it would look if left for 9 months.









Sent from cellular device.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> That's an interesting theory. Hmm, also using Alphacool rads. I did rinse throughly, maybe the rads added to the mess? At this point, should I pick up part 2 blitz kit and see how it plays out? I really don't want to pull my rads apart from the pedestal if I don't have too. Glad I caught this now, imagine how it would look if left for 9 months.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from cellular device.


Same here man. Alphacool rads. I flushed them pretty minimal because I wasn't seeing any junk come out really. What has me wondering is:
I've redone my loop repeatedly over the past 6 months. Changing things around, flushing to make sure no big problems. The very first time I built it I had a ton of what looked like black acetyl stuck in my cpu block when I took it apart during first tear down. It would also stick to the front plexiglass of my bay res. Tiny little black flakes. Thinner than hair.

Well that stopped happening. Then I added a new acetyl piece. I stripped a port on one of my GPU block terminals and replaced it. Now I'm getting some of those acetyl flakes again following the installation of the new terminal.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> That's an interesting theory. Hmm, also using Alphacool rads. I did rinse throughly, maybe the rads added to the mess? At this point, should I pick up part 2 blitz kit and see how it plays out? I really don't want to pull my rads apart from the pedestal if I don't have too. Glad I caught this now, imagine how it would look if left for 9 months.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from cellular device.
> 
> 
> 
> Same here man. Alphacool rads. I flushed them pretty minimal because I wasn't seeing any junk come out really. What has me wondering is:
> I've redone my loop repeatedly over the past 6 months. Changing things around, flushing to make sure no big problems. The very first time I built it I had a ton of what looked like black acetyl stuck in my cpu block when I took it apart during first tear down. It would also stick to the front plexiglass of my bay res. Tiny little black flakes. Thinner than hair.
Click to expand...

could be from the acetyl and from the alphacool rads. I noticed the paint around the ports would easily flake off after a couple turns of the fitting.

Your issue has to be extremely frustrating I bet! All my blocks are acetyl too.
Sent from cellular device.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Same here man. Alphacool rads. I flushed them pretty minimal because I wasn't seeing any junk come out really. What has me wondering is:
> I've redone my loop repeatedly over the past 6 months. Changing things around, flushing to make sure no big problems. The very first time I built it I had a ton of what looked like black acetyl stuck in my cpu block when I took it apart during first tear down. It would also stick to the front plexiglass of my bay res. Tiny little black flakes. Thinner than hair.
> 
> Well that stopped happening. Then I added a new acetyl piece. I stripped a port on one of my GPU block terminals and replaced it. Now I'm getting some of those acetyl flakes again following the installation of the new terminal.


Hmmm....I personally have never had any issues with acetal. I do often see little black flakes come from rads


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> That's an interesting theory. Hmm, also using Alphacool rads. I did rinse throughly, maybe the rads added to the mess? At this point, should I pick up part 2 blitz kit and see how it plays out? I really don't want to pull my rads apart from the pedestal if I don't have too. Glad I caught this now, imagine how it would look if left for 9 months.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from cellular device.
> 
> 
> 
> Same here man. *Alphacool rads. I flushed them pretty minimal because I wasn't seeing any junk come out really.* What has me wondering is:
> I've redone my loop repeatedly over the past 6 months. Changing things around, flushing to make sure no big problems. The very first time I built it I had a ton of what looked like black acetyl stuck in my cpu block when I took it apart during first tear down. It would also stick to the front plexiglass of my bay res. Tiny little black flakes. Thinner than hair.
> 
> Well that stopped happening. Then I added a new acetyl piece. I stripped a port on one of my GPU block terminals and replaced it. Now I'm getting some of those acetyl flakes again following the installation of the new terminal.
Click to expand...

With Alphastool rads, it's what you don't see, because it doesn't rinse out, is what necessitated the development of the Blitz Kit Pro in the first place. . .

I'd expect that the white crystal looking deposits to be flux that needed to be chemically cleaned when the rad was new before installation.

Or at least before using it again . . .

Darlene


----------



## DarthBaggins

^Again a reason why I wont buy Alpha's rads, I'll stick w/ my 2nd hand Swiftech and Black Ice GT 240's for now, or at least till i get the desk built (then up to 480's







)


----------



## DRT-Maverick

About to purchase some hardline fittings from monsoon. not sure if I should do the 1/2ID or the 3/8ID tubing.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Meh, the cleaning issues aside, the Alphacools still are very good rads imho. The extra ports are very useful for fill and drain locations (I sooo wish all rads had them) and they perform very well. It is really a shame though that they tend to come with as much crud as they do. On the bright side they should help Mick sell a bunch of his Blitz kits.









Anywho, got this bad boy in the other day







...


----------



## DarthBaggins

I plan on ordering a couple from Mick soon (rads that is)


----------



## Mayhem

Were starting to run low on the 480's i think there is less than 1/2 the stock gone now.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> That's an interesting theory. Hmm, also using Alphacool rads. I did rinse throughly, maybe the rads added to the mess? At this point, should I pick up part 2 blitz kit and see how it plays out? I really don't want to pull my rads apart from the pedestal if I don't have too. Glad I caught this now, imagine how it would look if left for 9 months.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from cellular device.
> 
> 
> 
> Same here man. *Alphacool rads. I flushed them pretty minimal because I wasn't seeing any junk come out really.* What has me wondering is:
> I've redone my loop repeatedly over the past 6 months. Changing things around, flushing to make sure no big problems. The very first time I built it I had a ton of what looked like black acetyl stuck in my cpu block when I took it apart during first tear down. It would also stick to the front plexiglass of my bay res. Tiny little black flakes. Thinner than hair.
> 
> Well that stopped happening. Then I added a new acetyl piece. I stripped a port on one of my GPU block terminals and replaced it. Now I'm getting some of those acetyl flakes again following the installation of the new terminal.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> With Alphastool rads, it's what you don't see, because it doesn't rinse out, is what necessitated the development of the Blitz Kit Pro in the first place. . .
> 
> I'd expect that the white crystal looking deposits to be flux that needed to be chemically cleaned when the rad was new before installation.
> 
> Or at least before using it again . . .
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Looks like I'll be ordering a kit myself. Thanks Darlene.

Sent from cellular device.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> With Alphastool rads, it's what you don't see, because it doesn't rinse out, is what necessitated the development of the Blitz Kit Pro in the first place. . .
> 
> I'd expect that the white crystal looking deposits to be flux that needed to be chemically cleaned when the rad was new before installation.
> 
> Or at least before using it again . . .


Oh jeez... so these are the tiny particles of junk floating around in my loop.

Can I use the Blitz pro in the whole loop by flushing it through my tubing and all?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Oh jeez... so these are the tiny particles of junk floating around in my loop.
> 
> Can I use the Blitz pro in the whole loop by flushing it through my tubing and all?


Only part 2.


----------



## electro2u

Curse you Alphacool. They got me with the drain port...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Curse you Alphacool. They got me with the drain port...


You'll have to pull them out to Blitz part 1 them.

You can part 2 them after you reinstall them.

I have a couple projects in the works that have 480 rads at the top or bottom.

The EK rads have the ports on both sides of the end tank to make filling / bleeding a lot easier when used up top, and a drain at the opposite end for when it's used on the bottom:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/14317/ex-rad-313.jpg/ex-rad-313/EK_Ultimate_Performance_CoolStream_480_XTX_Series_Liquid_Cooling_Radiator_EK-CoolStream_RAD_XTX_480_.html

They also have a lot better reputation for quality control and cleanliness than the Alphas.

I have 3 coming, so I'll report back if they don't live up to expectations.

Darlene


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Curse you Alphacool. They got me with the drain port...


It will be worth the pain to pull everything out and go through part 1 and 2.im taking that route myself.

Sent from cellular device.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> It will be worth the pain to pull everything out and go through part 1 and 2.im taking that route myself.
> 
> Sent from cellular device.


Couldn't agree more. You'll certainly find the route of the problem this way.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Hi everyone, so I started tearing down my loop (swapping Bay res with tube) and noticed this sludge which looks milky with some green thrown in. I'm thinking this was caused due to vortexing? I'm using X1 clear with purple dye.


That is from not Blitzing your Alphacool rads. Same thing happened to me except I had that build up in my blocks.It is the leftover crud they leave in their radiators from production. It really is too bad that they don't clean their radiators prior to shipping because they perform very well.


----------



## Nomadskid

My science fair PC is all plumbed up and ready for some Mayhem Pastels and Auroras! Woo! Can't wait


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Hi everyone, so I started tearing down my loop (swapping Bay res with tube) and noticed this sludge which looks milky with some green thrown in. I'm thinking this was caused due to vortexing? I'm using X1 clear with purple dye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is from not Blitzing your Alphacool rads. Same thing happened to me except I had that build up in my blocks.It is the leftover crud they leave in their radiators from production. It really is too bad that they don't clean their radiators prior to shipping because they perform very well.
Click to expand...

good to know my issue isn't unique. Damn you Alphacool!









Sent from cellular device.


----------



## Mayhem

Oky been listening to some feed back on the Havoc rads.

So we will look into some changes next time around.

1) We will be including free of charge 100ml of concentrate coolant that will make 2 Ltrs of coolant. "XT1 Clear"
2) Paint in the threads of the screw holes. were going to look into this.
3) Paint a bit thicker.
4) More small screws.
5) Blitz basic kit is staying (even though people say we don't need to add it as its part 2 and it makes sure all your kit is up to a good level of cleanliness)
6) Rad grill will stay.

So as of next week you'll get the rad, rad grill, blitz basic and concentrate coolant (enough to make 2 ltrs).
Next time "IF" we make some more rads we will look at paint and screws







. I am also going to do some other small changes too but more on that later.

We've had plenty of feedback from testers saying it is either better or the same level as RX 3 which put down someone's assumption that it will be worse and lots of testers saying its not a RX 2 and is not a copy like someone is claiming. The hybrid assumption though is a good one







and i would say that is a fair summation of the product and after all a rad is a rad.

Reviews will start to appear and from then on its for you to make up you own minds.


----------



## DNMock

Quick question about tygons tubing and the Pastels.

Is it the tubing itself that is turned greenish or does it alter the fluid color as well?

I've got a desk build and 75% of my tubing is hidden and in the near future I plan on changing out the visible parts with acrylic and keeping the hidden long runs tygons since I have a bunch of it left over.

Also, when flushing is there a general rule of thumb on the ratio of clean distilled to push in vs the amount of fluid the system holds? As in. If my system holds 1 gallon of fluid, how many gallons of fluid would you need to cycle through in order to remove all the old dyed fluid from the nooks and crannies? (The radiators are built into the desk so it will be way easier to just flush it all out with my drill pump rather than taking it all apart and pouring out all the contents of the radiators)


----------



## Mayhem

Just the tubing turns greenish.

As for cleaning we hook ours up to the mains tap and run off for 15min to 1/2 an hour. Never turn the tap on full. Then we flush through with cheap Di water and job is done. thats a quick way of flushing for a fluid change over. How ever if were using pastel we will run part 2 though the system to make sure everything is out.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky been listening to some feed back on the Havoc rads.
> 
> So we will look into some changes next time around.
> 
> 1) We will be including free of charge 100ml of concentrate coolant that will make 2 Ltrs of coolant. (red in colour)
> 2) Paint in the threads of the screw holes. were going to look into this.
> 3) Paint a bit thicker.
> 4) More small screws.
> 5) Blitz basic kit is staying (even though people say we don't need to add it as its part 2 and it makes sure all your kit is up to a good level of cleanliness)
> 6) Rad grill will stay.
> 
> So as of next week you'll get the rad, rad grill, blitz basic and concentrate coolant (enough to make 2 ltrs).
> Next time "IF" we make some more rads we will look at paint and screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I am also going to do some other small changes too but more on that later.
> 
> We've had plenty of feedback from testers saying it is either better or the same level as RX 3 which put down someone's assumption that it will be worse and lots of testers saying its not a RX 2 and is not a copy like someone is claiming. The hybrid assumption though is a good one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and i would say that is a fair summation of the product and after all a rad is a rad.
> 
> Reviews will start to appear and from then on its for you to make up you own minds.


Definitely impacts my viewpoint on the Havoc package as a whole. I suppose it's a good thing I didn't finish my write-up in time on Monday then. I will add these in when I get back home tomorrow. Any reason on red being chosen? Why not colorless (assuming this is X1) and then allow people to dye accordingly?


----------



## DNMock

Great, thank you. Just using X1 and dye now, but when I change in the acrylic in a couple weeks I was planning on going with the pastel. Nothing wrong with the X1/dye combo, but the pastels just look so clean I wanna try it out.

So 15-30 min cycling tap -> DI a few times -> Blitz 2 -> DI -> Pastel and the tygons is perfectly safe in the unseen crossover areas.

Sounds great, thanks a bunch.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Just ordered the Blitz Pro kit, will be ordering some dyes, but Curious, Mayhem- your gorgeous sea-green sea-blue color, can that be turned into a pastel? I'd love a pastel that was dark and rich blue/green aqua, like carribean blue.


----------



## Soxism

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> Any Australian's here and where do you get your water? For all.. I just use demineralised and throw in X1 (well now XT1) but I don't it's PH levels etc etc, beyond me. All is working nicely but all this talk about exposing it to air for hours ruining it has me little concerned.
> 
> add: I just get the Coles 2L demineralised (says deionised) water.


Buy Grey's Distilled water. Found in every Coles / Woolworths / IGA's around.

Been using for years. Infact one system Straight up Distilled, No Additives. Going strong for 2 years now, No change. Still no discolour, even on the blocks / parts.
(Also to note, i hard core cleaned my Rads beforehand. Literately spent two days doing flushes and cleans)


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Definitely impacts my viewpoint on the Havoc package as a whole. I suppose it's a good thing I didn't finish my write-up in time on Monday then. I will add these in when I get back home tomorrow. Any reason on red being chosen? Why not colorless (assuming this is X1) and then allow people to dye accordingly?


We just discussed that this morning and yes it will be "XT1 Clear" now (100ml bottle). The reason why it was going to be XT1 Red to start with, is because its a popular colour how ever given the Havoc Radiator purchaser will now get "XT1 Clear" they will have the option to change it to any colour they wish.







Ill amend the above statement.

It will be "XT1 Clear" so we cover all aspects of the market adding "XT1 Clear" to the overall package does not put to much of a financial strain on us were as adding X1 will increase the base package price.

The Mod Zoo managed to get a decent photo (better than i can) of the REAL split fin .... Not like so called two fins opposing each other which is not a "split fin" more like spit roast ...



We are calling this RSF (real split fin) Design.

There review will be up this weekend.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Splitter fin ... Fins that are *Split* down the middle, between the tubes.



The same term used by EK, Hardware Labs, XSPC and others

Louvred fins ... fins with open lateral slots




Patent US 5669438 A Corrugated cooling fin with louvers
http://www.google.co.in/patents/US5669438

Lust like Louvred blinds



Using the same terminology for different things only causes confusion as to what people are buying.


----------



## Mayhem

Ill get a close up photo of our fin arrangement.


----------



## rexr0d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We just discussed that this morning and yes it will be "XT1 Clear" now (100ml bottle). The reason why it was going to be XT1 Red to start with, is because its a popular colour how ever given the Havoc Radiator purchaser will now get "XT1 Clear" they will have the option to change it to any colour they wish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ill amend the above statement.
> 
> It will be "XT1 Clear" so we cover all aspects of the market adding "XT1 Clear" to the overall package does not put to much of a financial strain on us were as adding X1 will increase the base package price.
> 
> The Mod Zoo managed to get a decent photo (better than i can) of the REAL split fin .... Not like so called two fins opposing each other which is not a "split fin" more like spit roast ...
> 
> 
> 
> We are calling this RSF (real split fin) Design.
> 
> There review will be up this weekend.


Erm...I think its called a louvre. It would be confusing to call it "real split fin" when it really isn't a split fin.

Are these "real split fins" as well?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

A few pics from my Mayhems 480 Havoc ...





Best pics I could manage to get from this olympus point and shoot I bought back in 2003. lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky been listening to some feed back on the Havoc rads.
> 
> So we will look into some changes next time around.
> 
> 1) We will be including free of charge 100ml of concentrate coolant that will make 2 Ltrs of coolant. "XT1 Clear"
> 2) *Paint in the threads of the screw holes. were going to look into this.*
> 3) Paint a bit thicker.
> 4) More small screws.
> 5) Blitz basic kit is staying (even though people say we don't need to add it as its part 2 and it makes sure all your kit is up to a good level of cleanliness)
> 6) Rad grill will stay.
> 
> So as of next week you'll get the rad, rad grill, blitz basic and concentrate coolant (enough to make 2 ltrs).
> Next time "IF" we make some more rads we will look at paint and screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I am also going to do some other small changes too but more on that later.
> 
> We've had plenty of feedback from testers saying it is either better or the same level as RX 3 which put down someone's assumption that it will be worse and lots of testers saying its not a RX 2 and is not a copy like someone is claiming. The hybrid assumption though is a good one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and i would say that is a fair summation of the product and after all a rad is a rad.
> 
> Reviews will start to appear and from then on its for you to make up you own minds.


I wouldnt worry overly about that,it will drive costs up as to combat it you need screws everywhere...and these can pull the coating off when extracted. You using a electrostatic finish I take it?

Got the CPC package Mick,thanks for that.
No yellow tho.......


















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Splitter fin ... Fins that are *Split* down the middle, between the tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> The same term used by EK, Hardware Labs, XSPC and others
> 
> Louvred fins ... fins with open lateral slots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patent US 5669438 A Corrugated cooling fin with louvers
> http://www.google.co.in/patents/US5669438
> 
> Lust like Louvred blinds
> 
> 
> 
> Using the same terminology for different things only causes confusion as to what people are buying.


And this. Use the existing terminology. That top pic is a louvered split fin design...have it all!

Those fins,definitively not RX fins.
I take back everything I have said regarding copying,seems only certain cosmetic details are common between them.


----------



## VSG

Since everyone seems to be posting Havoc fin pics,





































Irrespective of what the name ends up being used, the naming conventions employed elsewhere would suggest these are louvered, serpentine fins. The louver angle is also not the same in all places. I am also not sure having louvered fins for a low fan speed optimized rad is the way to go to be honest, but I will cover it in a bit more depth soon.


----------



## rexr0d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A few pics from my Mayhems 480 Havoc ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best pics I could manage to get from this olympus point and shoot I bought back in 2003. lol


Ok so they are definitely just regular fins.


----------



## electro2u

Using my non hydrodynamics trained noggin it seems like the louvers or cuts in the fins reduces surface area and would compromise performance. I'm just a pleb though. Probly wrong


----------



## Vintage

Not sure either but I would imagine it increases surface area. Similar to how crushed ice is more effective than ice cubes.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Using my non hydrodynamics trained noggin it seems like the louvers or cuts in the fins reduces surface area and would compromise performance. I'm just a pleb though. Probly wrong


It disrupts laminar airflow,creates turbulence for better heat transfer


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It disrupts laminar airflow,creates turbulence for better heat transfer


This, except that at low airflow you are likely ending up with local eddy currents and would well just be worse than unlouvered fins. The louver angle also influences this.


----------



## electro2u

Yes I see the turbulence in my minds eye but I couldn't decide why I thought it would be worse at low staic pressure. vsg's explanation is easy to understand. Pretty cool stuff but it is after all just a radiator and not a racing engine thermodynamic diffuser.


----------



## VSG

Mayhems Havoc has been included in here now: http://www.overclock.net/t/1520512/the-quad-rad-roundup/0_50


----------



## rexr0d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Yes I see the turbulence in my minds eye but I couldn't decide why I thought it would be worse at low staic pressure. vsg's explanation is easy to understand. Pretty cool stuff but it is after all just a radiator and not a racing engine thermodynamic diffuser.


Mayhem should be more honest with its marketing. Obviously he's trying to hit at XSPC, their spat is very public.

But stop confusing consumers with stupid terms that are not accurate.

"Real Split Fins" What does that say? The rest are fake split fins? Or is false advertising now the norm?

It certainly hits on Mayhem's credibility making them look like a used car salesman.


----------



## Mayhem

@electro2u Actually our work (an many companies work) in water cooling influence many aspects of engineering as does many aspects of engineering influence water cooling pcs. The same goes for modding.

@B-Neg thank you ill let steve know as he deals with prizes.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I wouldnt worry overly about that,it will drive costs up as to combat it you need screws everywhere...and these can pull the coating off when extracted. You using a electrostatic finish I take it?
> 
> Got the CPC package Mick,thanks for that.
> No yellow tho.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this. Use the existing terminology. That top pic is a louvered split fin design...have it all!
> 
> Those fins,definitively not RX fins.
> I take back everything I have said regarding copying,seems only certain cosmetic details are common between them.


He had a diagram up of louvered fins vs his "RSF" design, not sure why he took it down, but it looks like his "Split fins" and louvered fins have a difference in the way they disturb the airflow.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rexr0d*
> 
> Mayhem should be more honest with its marketing. Obviously he's trying to hit at XSPC, their spat is very public.
> 
> But stop confusing consumers with stupid terms that are not accurate.
> 
> "Real Split Fins" What does that say? The rest are fake split fins? Or is false advertising now the norm?
> 
> It certainly hits on Mayhem's credibility making them look like a used car salesman.


I think it's less about selling his terminology and more about differentiating between louvered fins, and their fin designs.

-Z


----------



## rexr0d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> He had a diagram up of louvered fins vs his "RSF" design, not sure why he took it down, but it looks like his "Split fins" and louvered fins have a difference in the way they disturb the airflow.
> 
> -Z
> I think it's less about selling his terminology and more about differentiating between louvered fins, and their fin designs.
> 
> -Z


Splitter fins (not split fins) are already established. HWL used it first, followed by XSPC and EK.

I think geggeg already cleared this up.

EK rads uses louvred splitter fins. They don't claim to be real split split fins, does it?

To call these louvres real split fins is just pushing it and meant to cause confusion. It is also false advertising.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I want prizes! lol









Thanks for you guys donating some goodies to the FaT this month btw


----------



## Mayhem

Were is the winners list cannot seem to find it.

Mick


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Were is the winners list cannot seem to find it.
> 
> Mick


Right here, Mick: http://www.overclock.net/t/1522199/november-2014-foldathon-17th-19th/514


----------



## Mayhem

Darth you cheeky bugger you never won ive PM'ed the winner. Ill speak to Steve Monday and see if we can increase the prize fund from us a little more..


----------



## emsj86

has anyone added dark blue to blue berry pastel to have a dark blue pastel if so I would like to see the look. Im running blue pastel now and really want to try something alittle different soon but unsure of what. any ideas?
sorry its a phone picture but you kinda can see what got going now


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Darth you cheeky bugger you never won ive PM'ed the winner. Ill speak to Steve Monday and see if we can increase the prize fun from us a little more..


Just saying, lol, prizes were good


----------



## Mayhem

Lol ... thank you. We should really be PM'd the prize winners details so we can just send out the prizes but thank you for reminding me darth at least we can get it sorted


----------



## Eze2kiel

Hey Mike, for when 140mm Radiators?


----------



## Nomadskid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Darth you cheeky bugger you never won ive PM'ed the winner. Ill speak to Steve Monday and see if we can increase the prize fund from us a little more..


So we will hear from Steve in a month







lol.


----------



## Mayhem

"LOL" im working our steve to the bone hes doing a damned fine job, without him we wouldn't be where we are today. The work he does no one gets to see but trust me he does the poo im no good at







and he deals with all the resellers







.

As for 140mm rads if we do go that way ill first implement some changes i need to do for performance improvements as i think i can squeeze out a little more juice at the lower fan speed levels. I know we create less noise due to the lower FPI count in comparison to others ..... We also looking at a 20 to 30mm version but i need to do some more work on how we implement our changes as i do not wish to "copy" others work.









Give me time .... 3 years ago no one heard of us .......


----------



## Nomadskid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> "LOL" im working our steve to the bone hes doing a damned fine job, without him we wouldn't be where we are today. The work he does no one gets to see but trust me he does the poo im no good at
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and he deals with all the resellers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> As for 140mm rads if we do go that way ill first implement some changes i need to do for performance improvements as i think i can squeeze out a little more juice at the lower fan speed levels. I know we create less noise due to the lower FPI count in comparison to others ..... We also looking at a 20 to 30mm version but i need to do some more work on how we implement our changes as i do not wish to "copy" others work.


I just like to pick on people,it's a sign they're doing something right. But I'm really interested in these 140 rads. I can't wait to see what you guys produce.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> As for 140mm rads if we do go that way ill first implement some changes i need to do for performance improvements as i think i can squeeze out a little more juice at the lower fan speed levels. I know we create less noise due to the lower FPI count in comparison to others ..... We also looking at a 20 to 30mm version but i need to do some more work on how we implement our changes as i do not wish to "copy" others work.


Work quiet... Work


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mayhems Havoc has been included in here now: http://www.overclock.net/t/1520512/the-quad-rad-roundup/0_50


Thanks for that roundup, the mayhems rad looks real nice.

I'm thinking about ordering a few of these mayhem radiators. Does anyone know which ups method they use to ship? The website shows *UPS (N/A)*.


----------



## landon418

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> has anyone added dark blue to blue berry pastel to have a dark blue pastel if so I would like to see the look. Im running blue pastel now and really want to try something alittle different soon but unsure of what. any ideas?
> sorry its a phone picture but you kinda can see what got going now


Here's a picture of my incomplete build with pastel blue berry and a bunch of blue dye drops.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mayhems Havoc has been included in here now: http://www.overclock.net/t/1520512/the-quad-rad-roundup/0_50
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for that roundup, the mayhems rad looks real nice.
> 
> I'm thinking about ordering a few of these mayhem radiators. Does anyone know which ups method they use to ship? The website shows *UPS (N/A)*.
Click to expand...

Its been updated.

www.mayhems.co.uk and shop.mayhems.co.uk will be going into maintance mode today while we do some upgrades.


----------



## DarthBaggins

well just awaiting my Xmas bonus and hopefully I'll snag those 480's if they're still in stock.


----------



## Nichismo

Got Ice White Pastel and X1 UV Blue, however I still need to get some UV LED strips. I wanted both colors to have a subtle UV effect, but I really like the Pastel colors. I bought some clear UV Blue Dye that im going to add to the Ice White, how much should I add in? the loop is roughly 1.25 liters or so. Should I just add the whole 15ml bottle? Ive already added 3 drops and it doesnt seem to be doing much


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its been updated.
> 
> www.mayhems.co.uk and shop.mayhems.co.uk will be going into maintance mode today while we do some upgrades.


Thank you, I saw the post in the other thread about the radiator round up. Unfortunately there is no express option and I am tight on time, I will have to order the alphacool and a blitz kit to clean it from what I've been reading.

Is there a chance your radiators will be sold in US based retailers for the future?


----------



## Mayhem

There will be a few companies getting them. One of them ships to USA dead cheap as well.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> There will be a few companies getting them. One of them ships to USA dead cheap as well.


That's good news. If I wasn't bound by time to complete my build I'd order them directly from you and just wait it out. If a place like FrozenCPU sold them I'd order in a heartbeat









Overall I am really glad to see Mayhems making radiators, I have been using your coolants for quite some time.


----------



## Mayhem

Oky SSL has been implemented site wide now so every thing is more secure. So Mayhems is live again.


----------



## Malpractis

Hey Mick, I was just about to put my new rads through a Blitz Pro P1 treatment. And noticed I have the older version with the 250ml bottle that dilutes into 1l. Just wondering if I should still follow the instructions for 6-12hrs in the rads. Or follow the new instructions and do 2hrs shaking every 10min?


----------



## Deedaz

Best thing to do is use whatever instructions came with it.


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Best thing to do is use whatever instructions came with it.


Yeah most likely. I'll shake em every now and then anywho


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Hey Mick, I was just about to put my new rads through a Blitz Pro P1 treatment. And noticed I have the older version with the 250ml bottle that dilutes into 1l. Just wondering if I should still follow the instructions for 6-12hrs in the rads. Or follow the new instructions and do 2hrs shaking every 10min?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Yeah most likely. I'll shake em every now and then anywho


Follow the directions on the bottle you received: Different countries/territories have different customs/restrictions and as such Blitz is mixed in different concentrations worldwide so that it can get past the various import customs of various countries. The instructions your kit came with are the ones you'll want to follow.

-Z


----------



## Malpractis

Ahh yeah didn't think of that.


----------



## Mayhem

Yup ZytheEKS hit the nail on the head there







.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Besides flushing the rads and blocks with water, is there anything special I need to do when switching from pastel ice white to clear xt-1? I tore down my loop a while ago when I picked up another 780 classy, but last night I picked up another block and a black ice xtreme 3 x-flow radiator. I'm hoping to have my loop put back together in the next couple of weeks. I didn't know if black ice radiators were as dirty as alphacool, so I'm curious if I need to do something other than the typical flush with distilled water.

Thanks


----------



## Nomadskid

my Mayhems is somewhere in the country, i don't know where, but i can feel it, i cant wait for it to get here.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Besides flushing the rads and blocks with water, is there anything special I need to do when switching from pastel ice white to clear xt-1? I tore down my loop a while ago when I picked up another 780 classy, but last night I picked up another block and a black ice xtreme 3 x-flow radiator. I'm hoping to have my loop put back together in the next couple of weeks. I didn't know if black ice radiators were as dirty as alphacool, so I'm curious if I need to do something other than the typical flush with distilled water.
> 
> Thanks


XT-1 is EG based, so more or less plug and play. If you plan on using red dye I'd blitz the rads, if you haven't already. Hardware Labs make some of the cleanest (and best rads IMHO) on the market. I wouldn't bother blitzing those ones in particular. Make sure not to add anything other than dyes to XT-1, it doesn't play nice with other additives. (Aurora booster and the new pastel shots are okay as well)

-Z


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> XT-1 is EG based, so more or less plug and play. If you plan on using red dye I'd blitz the rads, if you haven't already. Hardware Labs make some of the cleanest (and best rads IMHO) on the market. I wouldn't bother blitzing those ones in particular. Make sure not to add anything other than dyes to XT-1, it doesn't play nice with other additives. (Aurora booster and the new pastel shots are okay as well)
> 
> -Z










+rep
Cool, that's what I thought. I've never used dye before and I don't plan on it so I shouldn't need to blitz it.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep
> Cool, that's what I thought. I've never used dye before and I don't plan on it so I shouldn't need to blitz it.


The only dye blitz is necessary with is red dye. Flux has a tendency to turn red into a brown colour. That and pastel; pastel does NOT get along with flux.









-Z


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Glad I'm getting the Pro then. But ouch @ the cost considering the size of the loop and radiators heh. Wish we could get higher concentration levels that we could just dilute and have like 4 or 5 uses out of.

The pastel fluid, it's anticorrosive and a biocide right? And it lasts for a couple years? So when I'm ready I can just drain and reuse or do whatever?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Glad I'm getting the Pro then. *But ouch @ the cost considering the size of the loop and radiators heh. Wish we could get higher concentration levels that we could just dilute and have like 4 or 5 uses out of.*
> 
> The pastel fluid, it's anticorrosive and a biocide right? And it lasts for a couple years? So when I'm ready I can just drain and reuse or do whatever?


*They tried, for some reason customs wasn't thrilled about someone selling high concentration phosphoric acid on a consumer level. Go figure







*

Pastel coolants will last for 2-3 years. I has biocides, surfactants, and mild-moderate corrosion inhibitors; so if you're using nickle with silver, or something mild like that it's fine, but don't expect to throw aluminum or something with high corrosion potential in the loop with Pastel. If you change up the loop before pastel has reached it's EoL run it through a coffee filter and it's reusable.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I personally love the used 240 Black ice gt xflow, and it was cleaner than the Swiftech rads I have (they weren't very dirty either)
The new GT's look awesome but so do the havoc's


----------



## Malpractis

I just did 3 x Black Ice Nemesis 360 GTX last night. There was a bit of clouding in the Blitz P1 that came out, and some black flakes. Unfortunately the 4th rad needs to be RMA'd (but I ran out of Blitz anyway







). If HWL are considered very clean, it'll be fun to do the 4x 360 UT60 I've got before I sell them


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Got Ice White Pastel and X1 UV Blue, however I still need to get some UV LED strips. I wanted both colors to have a subtle UV effect, but I really like the Pastel colors. I bought some clear UV Blue Dye that im going to add to the Ice White, how much should I add in? the loop is roughly 1.25 liters or so. Should I just add the whole 15ml bottle? Ive already added 3 drops and it doesnt seem to be doing much


Just an idea why my go pastel blue berry instead of the x1 blue and use white led lights to show off the parts. Or use white pastel and add some blue dye to get the shade you like. Just an idea. Looks great


----------



## Mayhem

Jesse aka Captain Currysauce over @ TMZ (The mod zoo) have a close look at the Mayhems Havoc 240mm rad. Does it sink or swim i do not know and im just about to read Don't monkey around get over there and read up on the Mayhems Havoc 240mm @ http://themodzoo.com/forum/page/articles.html/_/reviews/water-cooling/mayhems-havoc-240-radiator-r120

We got our first award









Just finished reading im on a proud high moment.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Jesse aka Captain Currysauce over @ TMZ (The mod zoo) have a close look at the Mayhems Havoc 240mm rad. Does it sink or swim i do not know and im just about to read Don't monkey around get over there and read up on the Mayhems Havoc 240mm @ http://themodzoo.com/forum/page/articles.html/_/reviews/water-cooling/mayhems-havoc-240-radiator-r120
> 
> We got our first award
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished reading im on a proud high moment.


Am I crazy or are the slits on the fins different heights?


-Z


----------



## VSG

Not sure why Jesse didn't see louvered (or gilled as he now wants to call it!) fins before, he reviewed a kit rad before with the same thing. Then again the fins on the Havoc protrude outwards from the tube channels, so it is easier to spot.


----------



## Mayhem

Hes going to update the names when he gets back ive messaged him the updated details (names)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Am I crazy or are the slits on the fins different heights?
> 
> 
> -Z


Not exactly sure what you're seeing in Jesse's pic from TheModZoo that you mean by 'different heights', but the louvered slits themselves in the Havoc rads have a pretty uniform spacing to them ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> A few pics from my Mayhems 480 Havoc ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best pics I could manage to get from this olympus point and shoot I bought back in 2003. lol


That said, there's also quite a bit of variation in how they are 'louvered'. Not sure that's the right word I'm looking for --- in how the slits are bent open. I think you can see what I mean better in the pics from geggeg VSG ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> Since everyone seems to be posting Havoc fin pics,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> Irrespective of what the name ends up being used, the naming conventions employed elsewhere would suggest these are louvered, serpentine fins. The louver angle is also not the same in all places. I am also not sure having louvered fins for a low fan speed optimized rad is the way to go to be honest, but I will cover it in a bit more depth soon.


----------



## P1nPo1nt

To my Aurora users out there, is it recommended to remove the jetplate on the CPU waterblock to prevent blockage or stuck particles? (Aurora 2)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P1nPo1nt*
> 
> To my Aurora users out there, is it recommended to remove the jetplate on the CPU waterblock to prevent blockage or stuck particles? (Aurora 2)


The short answer? Yes

Aurora /_CAN_/ work with the injection plate, but removing it drastically increases suspension life on the nanoparticles. It isn't required per se, but it is HIGHLY recommended. It may increase core temps by a couple degrees, Kelvin (Celsius) of course.
-Z


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Jesse aka Captain Currysauce over @ TMZ (The mod zoo) have a close look at the Mayhems Havoc 240mm rad. Does it sink or swim i do not know and im just about to read Don't monkey around get over there and read up on the Mayhems Havoc 240mm @ http://themodzoo.com/forum/page/articles.html/_/reviews/water-cooling/mayhems-havoc-240-radiator-r120
> 
> We got our first award
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished reading im on a proud high moment.


Hearty congrats Mick, and Steve - keep up the good work. My 480 is going well.

Mark


----------



## Ovrclck

I got my blitz kit! Excited to try it tonight. Question, when checking the pH balance, do I do this step after I've refilled my loop with x1 or before with distilled? Thanks guys!

Sent from cellular device.


----------



## VSG

After would be best, but you should have enough to check both times.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I got my blitz kit! Excited to try it tonight. Question, when checking the pH balance, do I do this step after I've refilled my loop with x1 or before with distilled? Thanks guys!
> 
> Sent from cellular device.


Nice. I found the whole thing fun except for when my cat kept trying to sniff the acid while I had my hands full and I freaked out and screamed at her.









I was really dumb though and just sort of instinctively rinsed the rads out with tap water..................... It's OK I'm sure they won't explode but I had to facepalm over it. I'm sure Part 2 will help take care of any residual minerals left over after I did a couple more rinses with distilled. At least we have a filtration system so it wasn't like straight out of a muddy puddle or anything. How come no one else around here is constantly admitting all the stupid things they do?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

A rinse or two with distilled after having had tap water in your rads is not a problem. I have converted a sink sprayer attachment hose end over to G1/4 in the laundry room sink so I can run hot tap water through rads to flush them out, and I finish up after that by doing at least one distilled shake and drain.

edit: Here's Mick (Mayhems) recommending doing essentially the same thing with tap water after running Blitz part 1 ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=SOR7SFYbcZ8#t=1223


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I got my blitz kit! Excited to try it tonight. Question, when checking the pH balance, do I do this step after I've refilled my loop with x1 or before with distilled? Thanks guys!
> 
> Sent from cellular device.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice. I found the whole thing fun except for when my cat kept trying to sniff the acid while I had my hands full and I freaked out and screamed at her.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really dumb though and just sort of instinctively rinsed the rads out with tap water..................... It's OK I'm sure they won't explode but I had to facepalm over it. I'm sure Part 2 will help take care of any residual minerals left over after I did a couple more rinses with distilled. At least we have a filtration system so it wasn't like straight out of a muddy puddle or anything. How come no one else around here is constantly admitting all the stupid things they do?
Click to expand...

Lol well i lost a OC-force, CPU, R9 gpu, 8gb high end ram, 512GB ssd, 1,000 watt power supply the other day and we still do not know why but it all went up in a massive puff of smoke. So yeh don't worry every one makes mistakes even when they haven't got a clue what mistake they had made pmsl.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> After would be best, but you should have enough to check both times.


Thanks you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I got my blitz kit! Excited to try it tonight. Question, when checking the pH balance, do I do this step after I've refilled my loop with x1 or before with distilled? Thanks guys!
> 
> Sent from cellular device.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice. I found the whole thing fun except for when my cat kept trying to sniff the acid while I had my hands full and I freaked out and screamed at her.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really dumb though and just sort of instinctively rinsed the rads out with tap water..................... It's OK I'm sure they won't explode but I had to facepalm over it. I'm sure Part 2 will help take care of any residual minerals left over after I did a couple more rinses with distilled. At least we have a filtration system so it wasn't like straight out of a muddy puddle or anything. How come no one else around here is constantly admitting all the stupid things they do?
Click to expand...

typical cats lol I blocked my room off so he can't get in. :thumbup:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A rinse or two with distilled after having had tap water in your rads is not a problem. I have converted a sink sprayer attachment hose end over to G1/4 in the laundry room sink so I can run hot tap water through rads to flush them out, and I finish up after that by doing at least one distilled shake and drain.
> 
> edit: Here's Mick (Mayhems) recommending doing essentially the same thing with tap water after running Blitz part 1 ...
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=SOR7SFYbcZ8#t=1223


Thanks!

Sent from cellular device.


----------



## Nomadskid

My package came in, the damn cold made the red dye explode though, I'm still super excited.


----------



## Mayhem

Let me know the details of the order or what you were supposed to get and ill have it replaced.


----------



## Soulkey

Love this pastel UV lime green in my system, looks like acid and is having all my friends freaking out about how cool it is. Thanks Mayehm couldn't have done it without you!


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soulkey*
> 
> Love this pastel UV lime green in my system, looks like acid and is having all my friends freaking out about how cool it is. Thanks Mayehm couldn't have done it without you!


Yeah looks good , is that a 750D Case ?


----------



## Soulkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Yeah looks good , is that a 750D Case ?


Why yes it is! I haven't gotten around to posting on the 750D owners forum just yet, been really busy fiddling with all my settings. Thank you though!


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soulkey*
> 
> Why yes it is! I haven't gotten around to posting on the 750D owners forum just yet, been really busy fiddling with all my settings. Thank you though!


Yeah thats why i was asking , have not seen you there


----------



## ALT F4

I have 4 bottles of mayhems pastel red!
I don't have the pumps yet and want the headstart to clean the radiators.
I need to run this blitz kit through my radiators first. If the radiator is new and I use part 1, do I need to use part 2 or even with part 2 can I leave it in without running it through a pump?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> I have 4 bottles of mayhems pastel red!
> I don't have the pumps yet and want the headstart to clean the radiators.
> I need to run this blitz kit through my radiators first. If the radiator is new and I use part 1, do I need to use part 2 or even with part 2 can I leave it in without running it through a pump?


If you use part 1 you NEED to use part 2. Part one is a fairly powerful acid, that's going to strip the flux from the solder joints within the rad. Part two, in addition to several other purposes, neutralizes the acid. If you use part one without part two then on a good day you might end up with little negative effects, on a bad day you may end up with pitting and weakened structural integrity on the rad core. Very little to worry about if you use it all properly. So to digress, yes: if you use part one you need to use part 2. Part 2 is a surfactant in addition to a pH neutralizer, so you really should run that part through the pump so it can use the turbulent flow to do it's thing. Hope that helps.

-Z


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If you use part 1 you NEED to use part 2. Part one is a fairly powerful acid, that's going to strip the flux from the solder joints within the rad. Part two, in addition to several other purposes, neutralizes the acid. If you use part one without part two then on a good day you might end up with little negative effects, on a bad day you may end up with pitting and weakened structural integrity on the rad core. Very little to worry about if you use it all properly. So to digress, yes: if you use part one you need to use part 2. Part 2 is a surfactant in addition to a pH neutralizer, so you really should run that part through the pump so it can use the turbulent flow to do it's thing. Hope that helps.
> 
> -Z


Cool ok , so in my case with my new RX 360 and EX 280 rad's ,and all my brand new unused EK supremacy CPU block an new Aquacomputer Hawaii GPU block and new Bitspower fittings and and EKHD rigid acrylic tubing , XSPC Photon 270 pump/combo.

I only need to flush my rads out with PT1 and then PT2 right ? as there should be no filth in any of the new components ? just the 2 Radiators to clean ?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Cool ok , so in my case with my new RX 360 and EX 280 rad's ,and all my brand new unused EK supremacy CPU block an new Aquacomputer Hawaii GPU block and new Bitspower fittings and and EKHD rigid acrylic tubing , XSPC Photon 270 pump/combo.
> *
> I only need to flush my rads out with PT1 and then PT2 right ? as there should be no filth in any of the new components ?* just the 2 Radiators to clean ?


In order, yes then no. Part one will obliterate any plating or coatings on blocks/fittings. Only use part one on the rads. Part 2 is a surfactant and pH neutralizers. Surfactant in layman's terms make things slippery (Think dish soap), so any rubbish in your blocks or loop will be carried into suspension within the mixture, and removed from your loop when you drain it. The other components may or may not need to be cleaned, but part 2 will clean em.

-Z


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> In order, yes then no. Part one will obliterate any plating or coatings on blocks/fittings. Only use part one on the rads. Part 2 is a surfactant and pH neutralizers. Surfactant in layman's terms make things slippery (Think dish soap), so any rubbish in your blocks or loop will be carried into suspension within the mixture, and removed from your loop when you drain it. The other components may or may not need to be cleaned, but part 2 will clean em.
> 
> -Z


Ok thanks , I will clean my rads before install and rinse them , maybe with a little bi-carb and water then install and use PT2 to make sure loop is clean , I will be using UV of some sort too so must be clean


----------



## HiTekJeff

I was wondering if anyone has used the new Mayhem's Aurora 2 Booster and how to use it with Pastel coolant already in your system? I can't find much information on it and don't want to ruin my Pastel coolant I have now. However, I would love to add one unless it does something to make it last less long before needing to change it, more clogging up your tubes, etc.

Thanks for any information on this and how to use it.


----------



## Soulkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Yeah thats why i was asking , have not seen you there


I plan on uploading a few pictures to the forum as an introduction but I want the pictures to be better than potato quality







That forum is the reason why I went with 750d soo much room to fit everything with a nice clean look.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> In order, yes then no. Part one will obliterate any plating or coatings on blocks/fittings. Only use part one on the rads. Part 2 is a surfactant and pH neutralizers. Surfactant in layman's terms make things slippery (Think dish soap), so any rubbish in your blocks or loop will be carried into suspension within the mixture, and removed from your loop when you drain it. The other components may or may not need to be cleaned, but part 2 will clean em.
> 
> -Z


Thanks ZytheEKS. Is there any chance I can let the rads sit with part 2 overnight instead of cycling?
My pump may be here Thursday or Friday, I am worried with 1-2 rads and a pump that there will be no restriction and I may burn out the pump with a 12-24hr cycle. It's the mcp35x pump with pwm control


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Thanks ZytheEKS. Is there any chance I can let the rads sit with part 2 overnight instead of cycling?
> My pump may be here Thursday or Friday, I am worried with 1-2 rads and a pump that there will be no restriction and I may burn out the pump with a 12-24hr cycle. It's the mcp35x pump with pwm control


Part 2 needs to flow through the whole system and not just the rads ideally. Letting it sit won't do much at all.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Part 2 needs to flow through the whole system and not just the rads ideally. Letting it sit won't do much at all.


I was hoping just having the liquid present would help minimally.

You have any suggestions for me running through a loop with no restriction and a pump that gets hot? I know for some d5 I could just manually set the speed but I'm at a loss with the ddc since it's fully pwm controlled


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> I was hoping just having the liquid present would help minimally.
> 
> You have any suggestions for me running through a loop with no restriction and a pump that gets hot? I know for some d5 I could just manually set the speed but I'm at a loss with the ddc since it's fully pwm controlled


By whole system, I mean all of your blocks as well.

Side note, IIRC the pwm pumps run at like quarter speed when no signal is present...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

MCP35X runs at 100% with no PWM signal.
PWM D5 runs at 60% with no PWM signal.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> By whole system, I mean all of your blocks as well.
> 
> Side note, IIRC the pwm pumps run at like quarter speed when no signal is present...


Yeah I know what whole means








However, I'm not going to clean blocks that were previously cleaned. I am only going to clean this new radiator as it needs to have an initial cleaning and at most add the other radiators I have for a rinse with part 2.
I've cleaned and maintained water loops for years without a mayhems blitz kit so I should be fine. The blitz kit is pretty great though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> MCP35X runs at 100% with no PWM signal.
> PWM D5 runs at 60% with no PWM signal.


So no way around the full speed? I will see how hot it gets, if I ordered the heatsink from the same site I will just install and see if it can passively cool.


----------



## VSG

It actually gets hotter as you lower speed, especially in a low restriction loop.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It actually gets hotter as you lower speed, especially in a low restriction loop.


No, this is not the case. Just ask Lowfat. He's had as much experience with DDCs than anyone I know of.

DDC pumps have always been prone to overheating at full speed and slowing them down is what lowers temps. Having more than a few blocks of restriction can help to slow the pump down in much the same way as PWM control lets you slow the pump speed down, both having the effect of the pump not getting as hot as it will if let to run at full speed. That's why the MCP35X and EK DDC 3.2 PWM are so much more reliable than earlier models, and really should be the only 18/20w DDC pumps anyone buys, because they can be slowed down so that they don't overheat.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/05/30/ddc3-2-pump-heat-scoping/



I wouldn't be too worried about running a DDC at full speed for a brief period of time like what it might take just to bleed a loop, especially if I had a heatsink on it that gets any sort of airflow. If you plan on doing Blitz part 2 for a longer period then bleed the loop, make sure you don't have any leaks, and then you can power up the mobo and run the pump with PWM to do the Blitzing.


----------



## VSG

True, Lowfat has had tons more experience with DDCs. Mine has only been with the PWM controlled MCP35X and that statement above should not have been generalized or even stated outright without specifics. Thanks for that!


----------



## DarthBaggins

That reminds me that my mcp355 could use a heat sink, even though its been running strong for over a year for me (bought it used of the marketplace). But I also have it in a well ventilated section of my case. When I go to putting everything in the desk I'll probably retire it to a back up pump, just don't know what style to go to for the desk since I've been looking at aquacomputer's pumps for the desk.


----------



## pmac

Finally took the plunge, and picked up 2 x 250 Pastel Yellow and some biocide from Mayhems product line,. should have it here this week.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> Finally took the plunge, and picked up 2 x 250 Pastel Yellow and some biocide from Mayhems product line,. should have it here this week.


As I understand it Mayhems Pastel coolants already contain biocide and anti-corrosive additives.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> Finally took the plunge, and picked up 2 x 250 Pastel Yellow and some biocide from Mayhems product line,. should have it here this week.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> As I understand it Mayhems Pastel coolants already contain biocide and anti-corrosive additives.


This is correct. Do not add any additional biocides (or other non-dye additives) to Pastel


----------



## pmac

Just need to know for sure, when I bought, it said not to add to premixed ...mine is the concentrate, which will be mixed by me using some R.O. water , does this still qualify under that statement of don't? Which of course is fine, but I figure I should ask to be crystal clear.

thanks


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> Just need to know for sure, when I bought, it said not to add to premixed ...mine is the concentrate, which will be mixed by me using some R.O. water , does this still qualify under that statement of don't? Which of course is fine, but I figure I should ask to be crystal clear.
> 
> thanks


For the Concentrate, you will add just the DI-water for the ratio that it specifies (should be 3 parts water to 1 part pastel). Do not add anything else other than dye if you are wanting to change up the color


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Will I be fine with aurora 2 if I have some high headpressure, high flow pumps that run 24/7?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> Will I be fine with aurora 2 if I have some high headpressure, high flow pumps that run 24/7?


Need some more info. What kind of blocks, rads, etc?


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> Just need to know for sure, when I bought, it said not to add to premixed ...mine is the concentrate, which will be mixed by me using some R.O. water , does this still qualify under that statement of don't? Which of course is fine, but I figure I should ask to be crystal clear.
> 
> thanks


It will state right on the bottle that all you do is add DI water and that it contains all the necessary biocides. I just mixed some sunset yellow myself last night. Unfortunately had some extra water still in my loop that diluted it a bit but it still looks great. Very cool effect if you hit it with some magenta light. It takes on this tequila sunrise look.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Need some more info. What kind of blocks, rads, etc?


HWlabs nemesis gtx 360 and 480, ek supremacy ek supremacy evo, maybe a bp fullcover rve block, res are 250 bps
pumps are e3 (roided out D5s)


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> No, this is not the case. Just ask Lowfat. He's had as much experience with DDCs than anyone I know of.
> 
> DDC pumps have always been prone to overheating at full speed and slowing them down is what lowers temps. Having more than a few blocks of restriction can help to slow the pump down in much the same way as PWM control lets you slow the pump speed down, both having the effect of the pump not getting as hot as it will if let to run at full speed. That's why the MCP35X and EK DDC 3.2 PWM are so much more reliable than earlier models, and really should be the only 18/20w DDC pumps anyone buys, because they can be slowed down so that they don't overheat.
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/05/30/ddc3-2-pump-heat-scoping/
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't be too worried about running a DDC at full speed for a brief period of time like what it might take just to bleed a loop, especially if I had a heatsink on it that gets any sort of airflow. If you plan on doing Blitz part 2 for a longer period then bleed the loop, make sure you don't have any leaks, and then you can power up the mobo and run the pump with PWM to do the Blitzing.


Thank you for this info. My actual worry of doing part 2 inside a loop is the amount of work it will take to clean it.

Last time it was almost impossible to get the foam out even with 5 gallons of distilled. I had to take apart every block and radiator to flush with tap water to then rinse with distilled. I didn't have the patience to keep filling the loop with distilled to only see foam is still everywhere







. I used the instructed amounts too.

I will put the radiators in series and run part 2 in intervals to make sure my pump doesn't melt. I'm just 100% not running part 2 inside a case due to my last experiences.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Thank you for this info. My actual worry of doing part 2 inside a loop is the amount of work it will take to clean it.
> 
> Last time it was almost impossible to get the foam out even with 5 gallons of distilled. I had to take apart every block and radiator to flush with tap water to then rinse with distilled. I didn't have the patience to keep filling the loop with distilled to only see foam is still everywhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I used the instructed amounts too.
> 
> I will put the radiators in series and run part 2 in intervals to make sure my pump doesn't melt. I'm just 100% not running part 2 inside a case due to my last experiences.


Hmm...shouldn't take that much rinsing to get it out... It definitely takes more than the instructions suggest tho lol


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Thank you for this info. My actual worry of doing part 2 inside a loop is the amount of work it will take to clean it.
> 
> Last time it was almost impossible to get the foam out even with 5 gallons of distilled. I had to take apart every block and radiator to flush with tap water to then rinse with distilled. I didn't have the patience to keep filling the loop with distilled to only see foam is still everywhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I used the instructed amounts too.
> 
> I will put the radiators in series and run part 2 in intervals to make sure my pump doesn't melt. I'm just 100% not running part 2 inside a case due to my last experiences.


Has anyone else had this problem with PT2 , I also don't want unnecessary issues with my new copper blocks and acrylic tube and Bitspower fittings ? , maybe for the loop itself after iv cleaned the Rads separate and flushed them with Distilled water and PT2 , then perhaps a diluted mix of PT2 for the rest of the loop ?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Has anyone else had this problem with PT2 , I also don't want unnecessary issues with my new copper blocks and acrylic tube and Bitspower fittings ? , maybe for the loop itself after iv cleaned the Rads separate and flushed them with Distilled water and PT2 , then perhaps a diluted mix of PT2 for the rest of the loop ?


Yes, I followed the directions just to experience the same thing. I also ended up with permanently cloudy distilled even after running many gallons of distilled through the loop to flush part 2. I'm not sure that I will be going through this process again.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Yes, I followed the directions just to experience the same thing. I also ended up with permanently cloudy distilled even after running many gallons of distilled through the loop to flush part 2. I'm not sure that I will be going through this process again.


MMMm ok thanks for the feedback , I will be interested in what anyone else says about their experience with it too , to get a clearer picture , doesn't sound too good though


----------



## electro2u

Dang. I've been holding on to the part 2 and getting ready to use it. What about filling the loop with DI after part 2 and running the loop for a while, then draining, repeat, repeat.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Dang. I've been holding on to the part 2 and getting ready to use it. What about filling the loop with DI after part 2 and running the loop for a while, then draining, repeat, repeat.


That's basically what you do.

The instructions say like two flush cycles, but it took me a couple extra.

It DID do it's job quite well I must say though. I did acrylic tube and it was crazy how many small acrylic particles it got out of there. Additionally, it cleaned a ton of those little nasties from the rads and it removed some dye that was stuck in a block that I had been unable to scrub out by hand previously.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Dang. I've been holding on to the part 2 and getting ready to use it. What about filling the loop with DI after part 2 and running the loop for a while, then draining, repeat, repeat.


That is exactly what I did and I went through gallons. Every time after a full bleed and cycle there was still foam that I could see in the reservoir. Even with taking out the reservoir and manually cleaning it, the multiple gallons I ran through the system still brought part 2 back to life.


----------



## electro2u

I wonder if flow rate has a big impact...Or perhaps there is a way to neutralize alkaline foam naturally?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Hmm, I might just use pt.2 for the radiators then, do pt.1 and follow up with pt.2 and do a long (10-15 minute) tapwater flush, then flush with distilled and call it good.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That's basically what you do.
> 
> The instructions say like two flush cycles, but it took me a couple extra.
> 
> It DID do it's job quite well I must say though. I did acrylic tube and it was crazy how many small acrylic particles it got out of there. Additionally, it cleaned a ton of those little nasties from the rads and it removed some dye that was stuck in a block that I had been unable to scrub out by hand previously.


What about a little salt water? Salt gets rid of soap bubbles... Am I being ******ed again?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> What about a little salt water? Salt gets rid of soap bubbles... Am I being ******ed again?


That's a poor idea. Salt increases the electrolytic properties of water, and may increase corrosion rate. It would be counter productive to the alkaline flush. High salt concentrations, relatively speaking of course, may adversely react with coolants, more specifically the dyes.

-Z


----------



## electro2u

Yup... I figured that was not super bright.


----------



## Mayhem

I really do not know what you lot are doing cos we have cleaned about 20 systems now with no issues what so ever unless your using too much part 2. When you use alot of part 2 extra flush might be needed but if you run it though a tap then all should be fine.


----------



## Ovrclck

So part 1 blitz, no more than 12 hrs right?

Sent from cellular device.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> So part 1 blitz, no more than 12 hrs right?
> 
> Sent from cellular device.


Whatever the instructions on you bottle say. Different counties have different customs, so blitz is made in different concentrations for different counties, and as such has different exposure times needed. Follow what your bottle says, not what any review site, nor online instructions say.

-Z


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> So part 1 blitz, no more than 12 hrs right?
> 
> Sent from cellular device.
> 
> 
> 
> Whatever the instructions on you bottle say. Different counties have different customs, so blitz is made in different concentrations for different counties, and as such has different exposure times needed. Follow what your bottle says, not what any review site, nor online instructions say.
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

Hah yeah man. Those review sites confused me. 12 it is. Thank you.

Sent from cellular device.


----------



## fakeblood

Swapped from Aurora to Pastel. Aurora really doesnt like Jetplates, which I knew going in. Looked great while it lasted!









http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC02702_zpsd68f1b51.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/updates2_zpsfb5d811e.jpg.html


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I really do not know what you lot are doing cos we have cleaned about 20 systems now with no issues what so ever unless your using too much part 2. When you use alot of part 2 extra flush might be needed but if you run it though a tap then all should be fine.


I am sure no one doubts you but I'm also positive we are not confused.

Over the weekend I might be willing to record then edit video to show you what myself and others have mentioned. I wouldn't have a problem if it was minimal, but for every gallon I put into the loop for part 2 to reactivate into the foamy surprise it's a bit of a pain.

I just need to go through parts ordered and make sure I have everything for the build.


----------



## Mayhem

Your welcome to make as many vids you wish how ever we've also shown what we do on vids and you can see how we clean a system. Since we flush systems regularly and we hand make the cleaners i get to know the products i make quite intimately and know them more than some company who just repackages products. This not saying ppl are wrong how ever if they are now following as we've done on the vids such as adding to a flowing tap to rinse out them you may just be recycling the cleaner. Don't forget this is not some cheap quick fix this is a real proper cleaner doing a real job cleaning you system. We don't make placebos after all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_IBHnUc3PM


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Your welcome to make as many vids you wish how ever we've also shown what we do on vids and you can see how we clean a system. Since we flush systems regularly and we hand make the cleaners i get to know the products i make quite intimately and know them more than some company who just repackages products. This not saying ppl are wrong how ever if they are now following as we've done on the vids such as adding to a flowing tap to rinse out them you may just be recycling the cleaner. Don't forget this is not some cheap quick fix this is a real proper cleaner doing a real job cleaning you system. We don't make placebos after all.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_IBHnUc3PM


Thanks for video link.
I am definitely not doubting or discrediting your knowledge at all. The multiple users experienced the same issue as myself so I just thought there may be more than we know. No product is ever perfect and I can't break down what is or isn't happening like you can. I just know that the residue being left behind is enough to create a noticeable amount of foam.

Might have to try creating a fitting for my kitchen sink to flush it how you mentioned. Adding the gallons and reflowing the loop obviously kicked up the residue to foam and as you say recycle the cleaner. If constant intake and outlet of water through the loop is enough to flush the part 2 then that is good but that would make part 2 even more complicated procedure to run it inside a case if there is no good fill / drain ports.

At the end of the day I'd rather spend the extra time to clean something instead of break it down later again


----------



## pmac

My Yellow Pastel came in today, looking forward to using it when its all set up.


----------



## Mayhem

Leave this with me i have an idea (had a brain fart while asleep) that we maybe able to add into the pack for thouse who do not tap it like we do. Ill have to test it out first to see if it works and see if there is any issue after words.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Leave this with me i have an idea (had a brain fart while asleep) that we maybe able to add into the pack for thouse who do not tap it like we do. Ill have to test it out first to see if it works and see if there is any issue after words.


You might consider having some 3/4" FGHT (female garden hose thread) to G1/4 female adapters made up to sell so people can easily hook up their loop to a garden hose (in the US at least. Not sure what garden hose threads are used elsewhere) and/or a standard faucet adapters with male faucet straight threads (27 TPI) and/or female faucet 27/32" straight threads (27 TPI) on the one end to G1/4 female threads on the other so people can easily hook up their loop to a sink (again, in the US those are the two most common faucet threads).

It's just a suggestion. I know if anyone actually sold such adapters I would buy one of each. If they were reasonably priced I would think that a lot of people would, at least most anyone with a custom loop (in the US at least). They would be really handy especially to anyone trying to properly use a Blitz kit or just flush their rads or loop between dye / coolant changes or whatnot.

While I'm thinking about it, what are the common hose and faucet threads in the UK & EU? I suspect they are probably different than in the US but I have no idea what they would be.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I really do not know what you lot are doing cos we have cleaned about 20 systems now with no issues what so ever unless your using too much part 2. When you use alot of part 2 extra flush might be needed but if you run it though a tap then all should be fine.


I'll be using it later this morning after my pt.1 is done on the second radiator. Split the mixture into 500mL portions and just barely filled both of my rads, phew. Finishing them now (doing 8 hours each). They're brand new rads but they're alphacool, and yes quite a bit of particulate came out of them, blehck. I'll let you know how it goes with part 2 and if there's any foaming going on.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Leave this with me i have an idea (had a brain fart while asleep) that we maybe able to add into the pack for thouse who do not tap it like we do. Ill have to test it out first to see if it works and see if there is any issue after words.
> 
> 
> 
> You might consider having some 3/4" FGHT (female garden hose thread) to G1/4 female adapters made up to sell so people can easily hook up their loop to a garden hose (in the US at least. Not sure what garden hose threads are used elsewhere) and/or a standard faucet adapters with male faucet straight threads (27 TPI) and/or female faucet 27/32" straight threads (27 TPI) on the one end to G1/4 female threads on the other so people can easily hook up their loop to a sink (again, in the US those are the two most common faucet threads).
> 
> It's just a suggestion. I know if anyone actually sold such adapters I would buy one of each. If they were reasonably priced I would think that a lot of people would, at least most anyone with a custom loop (in the US at least). They would be really handy especially to anyone trying to properly use a Blitz kit or just flush their rads or loop between dye / coolant changes or whatnot.
> 
> While I'm thinking about it, what are the common hose and faucet threads in the UK & EU? I suspect they are probably different than in the US but I have no idea what they would be.
Click to expand...

Its not really an option as we sell worldwide and trying to cover everyone would be a complete nightmare. What im looking into is a 10ml dropper bottle you can add to the final rinse that will kill off any remaining bubbles. Basicly a strong defoamer that is PH Neutral.. The stuff is so strong normally we use it at 0.05ml per 1 Ltr and it not cheap how ever if we water it down enough were its still cost effective we may be able to add it with no repercussions (as in going through customs).

BTW were holding a "Proper Crimbo Compo Time" over on FB hit up for you chance to win..... http://www.facebook.com/Mayhems2009


----------



## electro2u

Sorta wondered how you guys were even connecting your kitchen sink to your loop. I bet the number of people doing that is pretty close to zero.


----------



## Mayhem

Well since ive been water cooling 15 years ive been flushing this way. Why reinvent the wheel when the wheel is perfect. P.s everyone i know does this as well...


----------



## electro2u

It's clearly the way to go I just don't understand how to accomplish it








Wait, do they actually make garden hose to G1/4" adapters? Is that how you're doing it because the videos don't really break that part down. I'll see if I can find something like that and a short length garden hose.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> It's clearly the way to go I just don't understand how to accomplish it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait, do they actually make garden hose to G1/4" adapters? Is that how you're doing it because the videos don't really break that part down. I'll see if I can find something like that and a short length garden hose.


You can get replacement garden hose ends for 1/2" hose cheap at any hardware store. . . . Get a female one.

You can get an adapter for a sink faucet to male garden hose cheap at your local hardware store as well. . . . Check your sink faucet to see if you need a male or female.

Get some cheap 1/2" tubing while you're there,

Now use a regular G1/4 X 1/2" barb fitting, and you have a sink to G1/4 flushing kit.

Be sure to get enough tubing, (and an extra barb fitting) to have a second hose back to the sink if you don't want to have to actually work right over the sink.

Darlene


----------



## electro2u

Pure genius! Thanks as always Darlene.


----------



## MrPT

Hey guys , I'm using mayhems pastel perfect pink and have a problem with stained hoses. Now I have primoflex adv ltr and it got stained after month. Maybe You know which hose can't be stained by pink pastel? What You think about XSPC High Flex ?

This is how it looks


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Hey guys , I'm using mayhems pastel perfect pink and have a problem with stained hoses. Now I have primoflex adv ltr and it got stained after month. Maybe You know which hose can't be stained by pink pastel? What You think about XSPC High Flex ?
> 
> This is how it looks


You're going to have to go with acrylic tubing to prevent staining like that. No other way around it.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Hey guys , I'm using mayhems pastel perfect pink and have a problem with stained hoses. Now I have primoflex adv ltr and it got stained after month. Maybe You know which hose can't be stained by pink pastel? What You think about XSPC High Flex ?
> 
> This is how it looks


Gonna have to do acrylic like Jeffinslaw said. The problem with Pink is that it contains red dye. And red dye is the notorious staining dye out of all of the colors. Soft tubing over time will absorb minute amounts of particles from your loop, one of which is the dye particles. Hence why soft tubing will stain over time. Acrylic doesn't have that problem (or if it does, it'll take far longer, i.e. your lifetime, for it to happen.


----------



## cyphon

@Mayhem, What ratio of aurora booster do you recommend to mix with pastel to get that sweet pastel/aurora look?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Hey guys , I'm using mayhems pastel perfect pink and have a problem with stained hoses. Now I have primoflex adv ltr and it got stained after month. Maybe You know which hose can't be stained by pink pastel? What You think about XSPC High Flex ?
> 
> This is how it looks


Rigid tubing is the only way around tubing discolouration. Flex tubing dries out and hardens, except it doesn't do that because it absorbs coolant and remains soft. If there's dyes in the coolant, guess what it's going to be absorbing. Even if you add absolutely no dyes, and just have transparent coolant, Adv LRT will develop a yellow/brown tint. Most other flex tubings will leach plasticizers into the loop which is a nightmare.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

@MrPTwhen it comes to pink it doesn't matter what tubing you use even if its hard or soft it will stain. UV pink is the worst staining dye you can use. UV pink doesnt conatin any red dye btw.

@electro2u ITdeva hit the nail on the head. ...

@cyphon Use as little as possible. Its normally better to try and water the pastel effect down a little so that you don't need as much aurora booster as possible. Do not forget to shake that bottle like mad before use as well. The Aurora booster still follows the same rules as Aurora.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @MrPTwhen it comes to pink it doesn't matter what tubing you use even if its hard or soft it will stain. UV pink is the worst staining dye you can use. UV pink doesnt conatin any red dye btw.
> 
> @electro2u ITdeva hit the nail on the head. ...
> 
> @cyphon Use as little as possible. Its normally better to try and water the pastel effect down a little so that you don't need as much aurora booster as possible. Do not forget to shake that bottle like mad before use as well. The Aurora booster still follows the same rules as Aurora.


Thanks. It will be a little time before I do it, but I'm starting to place orders


----------



## Ovrclck

Is it possible to purchase an extra 250 ml of part 1 in the US? I was able to fill one 360 and 240.still have another 360 to clean. Appreciate it!

Sent from cellular device.


----------



## Mayhem

If you speak to PPC see if they have any if not i can put a limited amount on our shop after ive spoken to steve.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you speak to PPC see if they have any if not i can put a limited amount on our shop after ive spoken to steve.


Awesome! I'll hit them up first. Thank you so much!









Sent from cellular device.


----------



## Ovrclck

Flushing rads through tap water after 12 hour part 1 soak.. Went to my local hardware store and picked up a 1/4 barb to faucet adapter. Works great!










Sent from cellular device.


----------



## essm1988

is uv green will lose it bit color after months ?

i have alphacool ut60 480mm and used it with mayhem x1 blood red after year i noticed the color turn to purple (as i understand it acid) so i decided to use mayhem blitz pro for cleaning then use x1 clear with uv green should it will be fine right?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Flushing rads through tap water after 12 hour part 1 soak.. Went to my local hardware store and picked up a 1/4 barb to faucet adapter. Works great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from cellular device.


then distilled flush after that


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Flushing rads through tap water after 12 hour part 1 soak.. Went to my local hardware store and picked up a 1/4 barb to faucet adapter. Works great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from cellular device.
> 
> 
> 
> then distilled flush after that
Click to expand...

Yup!









Sent from cellular device.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *essm1988*
> 
> is uv green will lose it bit color after months ?
> 
> i have alphacool ut60 480mm and used it with mayhem x1 blood red after year i noticed the color turn to purple (as i understand it acid) so i decided to use mayhem blitz pro for cleaning then use x1 clear with uv green should it will be fine right?


X1 clear with UV green is fine.

UV effects will always lose effect over time, but you can just add a little extra dye to bring the effect intensity back up


----------



## essm1988

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> X1 clear with UV green is fine.
> 
> UV effects will always lose effect over time, but you can just add a little extra dye to bring the effect intensity back up


thanks brother


----------



## pmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Is it possible to purchase an extra 250 ml of part 1 in the US? I was able to fill one 360 and 240.still have another 360 to clean. Appreciate it!
> 
> Sent from cellular device.


Curious about something...

I plan onn doing a cleaning by hooking up a full external setup of all the rads (2x360 and 1x240) and reservoir, adding the part 1 & 2 in there proper order and letting them run as suggested, one full kit for the whole setup, then rinsing a couple times at least, with RO water, will a single kit work that way? Wondering if/why you ran 1 kit per rad (I'm guessing by the post that's what you did)? I haven't done much research on it yet because I have a while before the whole project starts. So any info is appreciated.


----------



## emsj86

a few updates today. And noticed my primochill advanced lrt tube was slightly stained. Is this normal only used distilled with blue berry pastel. I will be switching to arylic but was just wondering. It's not noticeable once I fill it back up but I bought white pastel and was worried to use it and waste it if it discolored the white pastel


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Is it possible to purchase an extra 250 ml of part 1 in the US? I was able to fill one 360 and 240.still have another 360 to clean. Appreciate it!
> 
> Sent from cellular device.
> 
> 
> 
> Curious about something...
> 
> I plan onn doing a cleaning by hooking up a full external setup of all the rads (2x360 and 1x240) and reservoir, adding the part 1 & 2 in there proper order and letting them run as suggested, one full kit for the whole setup, then rinsing a couple times at least, with RO water, will a single kit work that way? Wondering if/why you ran 1 kit per rad (I'm guessing by the post that's what you did)? I haven't done much research on it yet because I have a while before the whole project starts. So any info is appreciated.
Click to expand...

Part 1 dilutes to 1Ltr.
My rads are monstas, ruffley 86mm thick. Barely had enough to fill one 360 and 240.

Depends on your setup. 1 ltr may or may not be enough for your 3 rads.

Sent from cellular device.


----------



## Mayhem

You can all ways use part 1 more than once.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You can all ways use part 1 more than once.


serious? Did not know that. Good to know for next time.

Sent from cellular device.


----------



## pmac

ohhhh ok hmm never thought of that.. I don't have thin rads but not as thick as what you apparently have there
thanks. I may just have to order 1 or 2 more to back them up. much appreciate it, that would have sucked I would not have thought about that until it was too late.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh the acid will grow weaker as it is spent but it will clean more than one rad. We have reused it several times when cleaning. It will become less effective with more use so you may need to keep it in longer than stated time second time around..


----------



## The EX1

Double post.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> a few updates today. And noticed my primochill advanced lrt tube was slightly stained. Is this normal only used distilled with blue berry pastel. I will be switching to arylic but was just wondering. It's not noticeable once I fill it back up but I bought white pastel and was worried to use it and waste it if it discolored the white pastel


Yes that is normal. All colored coolants get their color from dyes and dyes will stain soft tubing. I wouldn't put pastel white in that used tubing. Pick up some fresh clear and go from there if your acrylic build is a ways out.


----------



## natsu2014

Quick question. Is using DI water a must when I want to add concentrated pastel or can I safely use distilled instead?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Quick question. Is using DI water a must when I want to add concentrated pastel or can I safely use distilled instead?


Distilled is actually slightly better than deionized/demineralized water, but it's not widely available in most of the world, at least not for cheap, like it is in the US, for example. For watercooling purposes either distilled or deionized/demineralized can be used.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> a few updates today. And noticed my primochill advanced lrt tube was slightly stained. Is this normal only used distilled with blue berry pastel. I will be switching to arylic but was just wondering. It's not noticeable once I fill it back up but I bought white pastel and was worried to use it and waste it if it discolored the white pastel


Pretty much this vVv
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Yes that is normal. All colored coolants get their color from dyes and dyes will stain soft tubing. I wouldn't put pastel white in that used tubing. Pick up some fresh clear and go from there if your acrylic build is a ways out.


To elaborate a bit more, soft tubing dries out, except it doesn't because it absorbs coolant from the loop. If dye is in the loop, guess what's being absorbed? Red and dark blue are the worst.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Quick question. Is using DI water a must when I want to add concentrated pastel or can I safely use distilled instead?


Deionized, distilled, demineralized and reverse osmosis water are all fine to use. Whatever is more readily available in your area.

-Z


----------



## merceless

Does anyone know where to get Mayhems Pastel in Australia? I've checked Pccasegear, Thekoolroom, GamMods, Megabuy, PLE, Gumtree and a heap of other random sites but the only place i can find any Pastel is Ebay. The problem is it's all in the US and with shipping it will cost me about $150-$200 to fill my loop. Have been looking for about 2 months now, I am just hoping I've missed a site someone knows about. I'm looking for Ice White or Blueberry, Blueberry preferably.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *merceless*
> 
> Does anyone know where to get Mayhems Pastel in Australia? I've checked Pccasegear, Thekoolroom, GamMods, Megabuy, PLE, Gumtree and a heap of other random sites but the only place i can find any Pastel is Ebay. The problem is it's all in the US and with shipping it will cost me about $150-$200 to fill my loop. Have been looking for about 2 months now, I am just hoping I've missed a site someone knows about. I'm looking for Ice White or Blueberry, Blueberry preferably.


Wut?

Thekoolroom has it

http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/mayhems-pastel-blue-berry-coolant-250ml/

-Z

Edit: My mistake, it looks like they're out of stock.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *merceless*
> 
> Does anyone know where to get Mayhems Pastel in Australia? I've checked Pccasegear, Thekoolroom, GamMods, Megabuy, PLE, Gumtree and a heap of other random sites but the only place i can find any Pastel is Ebay. The problem is it's all in the US and with shipping it will cost me about $150-$200 to fill my loop. Have been looking for about 2 months now, I am just hoping I've missed a site someone knows about. I'm looking for Ice White or Blueberry, Blueberry preferably.


Nope .... Welcome to water cooling in AU

Several stores have closed or stopped getting new stock over the last 12 mnths. Only pccasegear has increased their stock of decent gear lately but for lots of things we still have to just bite the bullet and order from over seas.

Because EK now distributes some pastel pccasegear might eventually get some in but I wouldn't hold my breath waiting.

Edit: actually they do have stock of both blue and white pastel. I assume that is the same as ice white and blueberry.


----------



## merceless

Damn that sucks, my Advanced LRT just turned up and I'm hoping to get it in ASAP. My luck i will install and fill the loop, only to find some pastel soon after. I am able to get EK Pastel easily, does anyone recommend this for an extended period, say 6-12 months?


----------



## Mayhem

https://www.ple.com.au/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryId=677&ManufacturerId=269

They have stock and will be getting more in soon. Were shipping gear over to them as i type this.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *merceless*
> 
> Damn that sucks, my Advanced LRT just turned up and I'm hoping to get it in ASAP. My luck i will install and fill the loop, only to find some pastel soon after. I am able to get EK Pastel easily, does anyone recommend this for an extended period, say 6-12 months?


EK's Pastel is made by Mayhems. I would think they are the same product just relabeled, though I did notice that EK advertises that their Pastel has a 3 yr shelf life unused and should be replaced every 12 months but Mayhems says their Pastel is good for 3 years in a loop...

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/water-additives-coolants/pastel-coolants.html


http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/products/normal-coolants/mayhems-oastel
Quote:


> 3 Year in system life span.


FWIW, Mayhems does have a newer 10nm Pastel coming out that's supposed to last even longer.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *merceless*
> 
> Damn that sucks, my Advanced LRT just turned up and I'm hoping to get it in ASAP. My luck i will install and fill the loop, only to find some pastel soon after. I am able to get EK Pastel easily, does anyone recommend this for an extended period, say 6-12 months?


As far as I'm aware EK Pastel is just OEM Mayhems pastel with some different colours.

-Z


----------



## DarthBaggins

New pastel you say, I know ill be wanting to do mint in the desk (still drafting it up till I see what I want and what will be practical if I have to move the desk)


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh the acid will grow weaker as it is spent but it will clean more than one rad. We have reused it several times when cleaning. It will become less effective with more use so you may need to keep it in longer than stated time second time around..


i have 2x ut 60 480mm and 1xut 60 240mm and i think part 1 will only enough for 2x ut 60 480mm so if i can reuse the part 1 for the ut 60 240mm it will be great news.Should i filter the part 1 before re use or can i?


----------



## The EX1

I didn't have much of part 1 left after filling just one UT60 480mm.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> I didn't have much of part 1 left after filling just one UT60 480mm.


That means I probably won't have any after filling the monsta 480 this weekend.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i have 2x ut 60 480mm and 1xut 60 240mm and i think part 1 will only enough for 2x ut 60 480mm so if i can reuse the part 1 for the ut 60 240mm it will be great news.Should i filter the part 1 before re use or can i?


I'm going to re-use mine. I want to hit the other two radiators with another flush before using part 2 in all 3 rads.


----------



## merceless

Sweet as! That made my day. I'm looking forward to doing this clean and refill now







I'll be sure to post some pics


----------



## The EX1

Clean them for as long as you have time and patience. I could not believe how filthy my UT60 was.

-Fresh out of box and ran it through tap water for 30 mins
-Blitz part 1 for 12 hours
-Flushed with it hooked up to the tap for 2 hours while I watched a movie
-Ran Blitz part 2 for 24 hours
-flushed again with tap for several hours but with an in-line filter to let me see if anything else was coming out. The thing was damn near clogged when I checked it after this flush!
-Hooked it back up to the faucet overnight.
- Checked the filter and again it full of tiny pieces of copper and this white filmy substance.
- 4 gallons of distilled water later I finally stopped seeing black specs coming out of the radiator









It is a shame these radiators are so dirty because they perform like, well, Monstas lol


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Clean them for as long as you have time and patience. I could not believe how filthy my UT60 was.
> 
> -Fresh out of box and ran it through tap water for 30 mins
> -Blitz part 1 for 12 hours
> -Flushed with it hooked up to the tap for 2 hours while I watched a movie
> -Ran Blitz part 2 for 24 hours
> -flushed again with tap for several hours but with an in-line filter to let me see if anything else was coming out. The thing was damn near clogged when I checked it after this flush!
> -Hooked it back up to the faucet overnight.
> - Checked the filter and again it full of tiny pieces of copper and this white filmy substance.
> - 4 gallons of distilled water later I finally stopped seeing black specs coming out of the radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a shame these radiators are so dirty because they perform like, well, Monstas lol


I think I should order an in-line filter







I may have to place an order this week for one. I'd love to see what leaves the radiator without it just recirculating after I clean them


----------



## merceless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Clean them for as long as you have time and patience. I could not believe how filthy my UT60 was.
> 
> -Fresh out of box and ran it through tap water for 30 mins
> -Blitz part 1 for 12 hours
> -Flushed with it hooked up to the tap for 2 hours while I watched a movie
> -Ran Blitz part 2 for 24 hours
> -flushed again with tap for several hours but with an in-line filter to let me see if anything else was coming out. The thing was damn near clogged when I checked it after this flush!
> -Hooked it back up to the faucet overnight.
> - Checked the filter and again it full of tiny pieces of copper and this white filmy substance.
> - 4 gallons of distilled water later I finally stopped seeing black specs coming out of the radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a shame these radiators are so dirty because they perform like, well, Monstas lol


I haven't tried the cleaning kit yet, I've always flushed my rads with boiling water or diluted vinegar then boiling water. When i cleaned my 80mm Monsta i used around 8 litres of water before i was happy. Am only running distilled and kill coil atm. Going to spend as long as possible flushing everything, have got pretty bad plasticizer with this Masterkleer tubing, was so happy when i finally found some Advanced LRT


----------



## merceless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Clean them for as long as you have time and patience. I could not believe how filthy my UT60 was.
> 
> -Fresh out of box and ran it through tap water for 30 mins
> -Blitz part 1 for 12 hours
> -Flushed with it hooked up to the tap for 2 hours while I watched a movie
> -Ran Blitz part 2 for 24 hours
> -flushed again with tap for several hours but with an in-line filter to let me see if anything else was coming out. The thing was damn near clogged when I checked it after this flush!
> -Hooked it back up to the faucet overnight.
> - Checked the filter and again it full of tiny pieces of copper and this white filmy substance.
> - 4 gallons of distilled water later I finally stopped seeing black specs coming out of the radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a shame these radiators are so dirty because they perform like, well, Monstas lol


Talking about filters, I'll be getting a water purifier to help flush my rads over night or while I'm at work


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> That means I probably won't have any after filling the monsta 480 this weekend.
> I'm going to re-use mine. I want to hit the other two radiators with another flush before using part 2 in all 3 rads.


ok but what about the unwanted particles like flux that come with part 1? Do we need to filter part1 before using again and for how longer should it stay for the next time?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> ok but what about the unwanted particles like flux that come with part 1? Do we need to filter part1 before using again


I'd filter it out. Coffee filter works best in my experience.


----------



## skupples

I has unpaid testimonial.

I've been running X1 clear for about a year now.

It is by far the best pre-mixed coolant/additive I've ever used.

It blows all of your singular additives like Liquid Utopia, Dead Water, PH Nuke, Silver, EK Fluids, & pretty much everything else.

The Microchannels in my CPU block are still 100% clear of debris, gunk, build up, & w/e else after 1 year, with out acid bathing my radiators, all copper blocks, & LRT Adv tubing.

I've never seen any other product on the market do this. I mean 100% clean & clear. All the stuff I listed above ALWAYS renders at the LEAST white film buildup over time, not X1. It might smell like cheap whiskey, but it works like a dreeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaam.

I mention the Microchannels because this is where things are 100% guaranteed to catch. If your CPU channels are clear, chances are that your GPU channels are also clear. Hell, the copper has barely even formed patina.


----------



## ozzy1925

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I'd filter it out. Coffee filter works best in my experience.


thanks but as i read from the instructions part 1 consists acid can it be filtrered by coffee filter?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*


thanks but as i read from the instructions part 1 consists acid can it be filtrered by coffee filter?[/quote]

After it's diluted, yeah. Just don't get it on your skin









-Z


----------



## Mayhem

I wouldn't filter part 1 no as said it is an acid and the less you mess with it the better, Simply empty it out from a rad into a bottle and reuse and once finished get rid of down the drain.

@skupples thank you for your testimonial. It is very kind of you. Just to let you know "Mayhems" as a whole has never paid for reviews and we have never paid for advertising. We always only use only honest people who tell the truth and don't use reviewers or testers who kiss ass. When we send test samples out, all we ever ask for the user or review is to be 100% honest and i bet any testers who have tested our products can attest to that. All feed back good or bad from users is looked over so we can improve either our customer service or products. :thumbnce again thank you for you honesty your gear must be exceptionally clean


----------



## VSG

I don't see anything wrong with paying for advertising, especially for new products that people will be unaware of. Forums are a great start but not the end all, be all yet.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I don't see anything wrong with paying for advertising, especially for new products that people will be unaware of. Forums are a great start but not the end all, be all yet.


When a product is and does what it claims to be, I feel the same way.

Mayhems coolants, dyes, and cleaning kits are no frills. You buy them and next week have don't have to buy something else. There is a nice community of supporters to back up their products. Now with radiators the product line is just growing and I am only waiting for some blocks, fittings, and a full Mayhems line of liquid cooling components


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I wouldn't filter part 1 no as said it is an acid and the less you mess with it the better, Simply empty it out from a rad into a bottle and reuse and once finished get rid of down the drain.


thanks,it says leave part 1 for 6-12 hours on my instruction paper, so if i leave it for 12 hours at the first usage and leave it 13 hours for the next usage am i safe ?


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Clean them for as long as you have time and patience. I could not believe how filthy my UT60 was.
> 
> -Fresh out of box and ran it through tap water for 30 mins
> -Blitz part 1 for 12 hours
> -Flushed with it hooked up to the tap for 2 hours while I watched a movie
> -Ran Blitz part 2 for 24 hours
> -flushed again with tap for several hours but with an in-line filter to let me see if anything else was coming out. The thing was damn near clogged when I checked it after this flush!
> -Hooked it back up to the faucet overnight.
> - Checked the filter and again it full of tiny pieces of copper and this white filmy substance.
> - 4 gallons of distilled water later I finally stopped seeing black specs coming out of the radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a shame these radiators are so dirty because they perform like, well, Monstas lol


Which in-line filter did you use? Could someone suggest a good one.

I found these three but not sure if the koolance with finer filter will actually work better than others. These seem like an interesting addition to keep in my loop after flushing
Phobya inline filter
Koolance inline filter
Koolance inline filter 2


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> I found these three but not sure if the koolance with finer filter will actually work better than others. These seem like an interesting addition to keep in my loop after flushing
> 
> Koolance inline filter


If I were going to purchase one. It'd be this one.

Koolance inline filter


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> If I were going to purchase one. It'd be this one.
> 
> Koolance inline filter


Thanks, that was my choice except for its pricing. Seeing as I need two it becomes a hassle as I've cheaped out on so many other fittings the past two weeks. I grabbed two koolance drain valve instead of bitspower, was literally $20 for both or $50 for both.

In this case it seems as the filter would be more of an important since it could be a safety feature? I have no idea how much if any restriction will be caused by the finer filter in the koolance but if I can save my pump from taking in and spitting out debris I think it will have served its purpose and payed itself out.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Wouldn't run an inline filter with mayhems coolants


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Wouldn't run an inline filter with mayhems coolants


Why do you say this thought

My primary idea was to only use during flush of blitz kit part 2, but then I saw this may have been a viable added safety for the loop


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Why do you say this thought
> 
> My primary idea was to only use during flush of blitz kit part 2, but then I saw this may have been a viable added safety for the loop


In general I would not use an online filter.

It really is not needed with pt2. When you drain and flush, all the stuff will come out no issues


----------



## Bertovzki

Does Myahems Blitz Pro not ship to New Zealand ? i want to get some , has anyone ordered into NZ from Frozen or someone ? or am i better to order from Mayhems website ? I cant find any in any of our shops


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> In general I would not use an online filter.
> 
> It really is not needed with pt2. When you drain and flush, all the stuff will come out no issues


I'm now curious as to why not. Is it more geared towards being unnecessary or will it create some form of harmful effect that I am not taking into account. I am just looking for an added level of protection during the loops lifespan, for the flush I wanted to see if there was a lot of debris or a small amount.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> I'm now curious as to why not. Is it more geared towards being unnecessary or will it create some form of harmful effect that I am not taking into account. I am just looking for an added level of protection during the loops lifespan, for the flush I wanted to see if there was a lot of debris or a small amount.


Just a guess as I'm curious as well but:
It will add restriction.
Yes I think it's unnecessary.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Just a guess as I'm curious as well but:
> It will add restriction.
> Yes I think it's unnecessary.


I can understand it being possibly more of a negative than a positive addition. If an inline filter is not viable after a flush, I hope this means the flush is really good









I was thinking there could always be debris somewhere or something happening over time that the inline filter would gladly hold on to, now if the amount of restriction that is added is really not worth the amount of debris that might possibly show up it would make sense to just not have one.


----------



## Cavey00

Loving the Sunset Yellow Pastel in the finished rig



That reservoir behind the flame doesn't get much circulation above that deflector plate though. As I was slowly bleeding out the bubbles I noticed a little bit of a film deposited on the sides of the res. Is it normal for stagnant pastel to leave a little bit of a deposit along the surface? I have all acrylic in the tower, Primochill Advanced LTR for the lines running to my ghetto external radiator setup, but about a foot of red Masterkleer linking three radiators together. I somewhat doubt the could plastercize in less than a weeks time and I don't see anything off in the rest of the loop.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> I can understand it being possibly more of a negative than a positive addition. If an inline filter is not viable after a flush, I hope this means the flush is really good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking there could always be debris somewhere or something happening over time that the inline filter would gladly hold on to, now if the amount of restriction that is added is really not worth the amount of debris that might possibly show up it would make sense to just not have one.


If you're really set on having the filter in place. I'd hook the filter in place and run for 24 hrs, re check a couple of time and then remove from loop.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> If you're really set on having the filter in place. I'd hook the filter in place and run for 24 hrs, re check a couple of time and then remove from loop.


It sounds like it won't be necessary. I'd rather just flush a few extra times and save the trial and error for the filters. The case is a caselabs and I have 3 480 radiators so draining, filling, and bleeding will not be fun to do


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> It sounds like it won't be necessary. I'd rather just flush a few extra times and save the trial and error for the filters. The case is a caselabs and I have 3 480 radiators so draining, filling, and bleeding will not be fun to do


in-line filters are highly over-rated. Those little bits of fiber that can tend to make their way into a loop will either end up stuck in a radiator, or stuck in a micro-channel, either way = zero affect.

I saw a little bit of fiber in my res today during the derp fail rebuild (don't use a datavac to push water out of your computers, people) and I just had to let it go. No way i'm blowing $40 worth of coolant just to strain out some tiny little fibers.


----------



## ZytheEKS

In line filters can be dangerous. The restriction they cause can cause barbs, and loose fittings to leak. They also cause excessive restriction resulting in lower flow, lower flow results in less turbulence, less turbulence means less performance. Seeing as we used closed loops, there isn't any crap getting into our loop. In line filters are all around ill advised.

-Z


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> in-line filters are highly over-rated. Those little bits of fiber that can tend to make their way into a loop will either end up stuck in a radiator, or stuck in a micro-channel, either way = zero affect.
> 
> I saw a little bit of fiber in my res today during the derp fail rebuild (don't use a datavac to push water out of your computers, people) and I just had to let it go. No way i'm blowing $40 worth of coolant just to strain out some tiny little fibers.


Thanks for sharing the experience. I am like you in the sense I would have done the same. I'm just going to skip the filters, while the idea seems good it seems it's hurting more than helping.
I just hope this weekend I get the time to rebuild, I have some pretty big boxes sitting in my room for weeks now and still no time to break out the pieces and start working









Do you guys think putting a coffee filter on the inlet of my reservoir while running blitz part 2 will be bad? I just want something to help me catch/filter/remove instead of just reflowing it through the radiators.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Thanks for sharing the experience. I am like you in the sense I would have done the same. I'm just going to skip the filters, while the idea seems good it seems it's hurting more than helping.
> I just hope this weekend I get the time to rebuild, I have some pretty big boxes sitting in my room for weeks now and still no time to break out the pieces and start working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys think putting a coffee filter on the inlet of my reservoir while running blitz part 2 will be bad? I just want something to help me catch/filter/remove instead of just reflowing it through the radiators.


not sure what's been recommended previously, but you would want to rinse your radiators outside of the loop. Seems like running blitz through your entire system could be one major pain in the ass. Also, blocks tend to only really need a rinse. I normally just pop them apart, rinse with hot water, dry, & put them back together.

Can anyone confirm? Seems like Blitz wouldn't get along with acrylic reservoirs very well, since vinegar doesn't get along with acrylic very well.

I haven't personally used blitz, but I've done the typical water >> acid > sodiumbicarb >> water >> Water thing before. I would assume the blitz process is rather similar.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> not sure what's been recommended previously, but you would want to rinse your radiators outside of the loop. Seems like running blitz through your entire system could be one major pain in the ass. Also, blocks tend to only really need a rinse. I normally just pop them apart, rinse with hot water, dry, & put them back together.
> 
> Can anyone confirm? Seems like Blitz wouldn't get along with acrylic reservoirs very well, since vinegar doesn't get along with acrylic very well.
> 
> I haven't personally used blitz, but I've done the typical water >> acid > sodiumbicarb >> water >> Water thing before. I would assume the blitz process is rather similar.


Blitz Part 1 is Phosphoric acid, and it just goes through the radiators. It strips flux from the solder joints, and cleans any other crap in the rad. Part 1 will obliterate any nickle plating, and probably cause intense micro-fractures on any acrylic. Part 2 is a non-ionic surfactant and alkaline. Part 2 is safe for the entire loop, and will clean the entire loop.

-Z


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Blitz Part 1 is Phosphoric acid, and it just goes through the radiators. It strips flux from the solder joints, and cleans any other crap in the rad. Part 1 will obliterate any nickle plating, and probably cause intense micro-fractures on any acrylic. Part 2 is a non-ionic surfactant and alkaline. Part 2 is safe for the entire loop, and will clean the entire loop.
> 
> -Z


right, so pretty similar to the old method, with a more job specific acid.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> right, so pretty similar to the old method, with a more job specific acid.


Pretty much, except it's WAY more effective, and part 2 will actually clean everything since it has a potent surfactant, instead of just neutralizing the pH.

-Z


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Does Mayhems Blitz Pro not ship to New Zealand ? i want to get some , has anyone ordered into NZ from Frozen or someone ? or am i better to order from Mayhems website ? I cant find any in any of our shops


Can someone please tell me does Mayhems ship Blitz to NZ ? maybe @Mayhems could tell me , i have not tried to order any of the website , thought id just ask ? , its just iv not seen it anywhere here , I sell paint and associated products as part of my job ,we have plenty of phosphoric acid and bi - carb ,but would rather use a kit


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> not sure what's been recommended previously, but you would want to rinse your radiators outside of the loop. Seems like running blitz through your entire system could be one major pain in the ass. Also, blocks tend to only really need a rinse. I normally just pop them apart, rinse with hot water, dry, & put them back together.
> 
> Can anyone confirm? Seems like Blitz wouldn't get along with acrylic reservoirs very well, since vinegar doesn't get along with acrylic very well.
> 
> I haven't personally used blitz, but I've done the typical water >> acid > sodiumbicarb >> water >> Water thing before. I would assume the blitz process is rather similar.


Yeah, after my first run with the blitz kit I learned that part 2 isn't the easiest thing to clean. Part 1 is for radiators and part 2 is for full system.

I'm going to put part 1 in the 3 radiators, after I'm just going to hook up the 3 radiators to my pump and reservoir and run part 2. I think I will put a coffee filter inside the top of the tube res and have it just be a filter.


----------



## Mayhem

@Bertovzki Yes we ship there. please contact the sales team if you have issues ordering you can also use our resellers whom will ship to you as well. (part 1 contains something else apart from acid but we won't be giving that secret out).


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Bertovzki Yes we ship there. please contact the sales team if you have issues ordering you can also use our resellers whom will ship to you as well. (part 1 contains something else apart from acid but we won't be giving that secret out).


Sweet thanks for reply , right , didn't look at Frozen before asking , i was just wondering why i hadn't found it here , but plenty of Mayhems coolants , I mostly use Techworld here , they are by far the best to order from , a few others have various Mayhems coolants









I was wanting a UV green , but with a bit of guts to it , with good UV effect , I have some X1 Green / Yellow UV on the way from Techworld , and looking for some Emerald green as well , thinking that might richen the green a little , ill try without first and see what the Yellow none UV aspect looks like.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> I'm now curious as to why not. Is it more geared towards being unnecessary or will it create some form of harmful effect that I am not taking into account. I am just looking for an added level of protection during the loops lifespan, for the flush I wanted to see if there was a lot of debris or a small amount.


Just getting back to reality after a couple days of working way too many hours, so a little late to the reply here.

The others have pretty much said it all though. Restriction, mess up your flow, the stuff you're protecting against probably will never cause an issue in the system. If you had the filter though and the artifacts didn't already get caught in the system anyway, they'd get caught in the filter which sounds nice, but really you just created a blockage in your loop now, which is far worse than it hanging out it a rad.

Part 2 surfactant will help move the particals through and out of the system when you flush/drain


----------



## Vindicare

Hello guys.

I'm starting a new build and going to water cool it.

I chose a Alphacool radiator because everyone says they are very good, and i did somw studying about how to clean all the gunk that normally is inside these radiators.

This led me to buy a Mayhems kit for prepping the system.

Now i have the part 1 and part 2 bottles, i'm going to start doing the prep this weekend maybe, but what led me to post here is that the mixing instructions in the bottles and the leaflet are not the same.

What instructions should i follow? Allways the ones in the leaflet that came in the box?

Thanks.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> Hello guys.
> 
> I'm starting a new build and going to water cool it.
> 
> I chose a Alphacool radiator because everyone says they are very good, and i did somw studying about how to clean all the gunk that normally is inside these radiators.
> 
> This led me to buy a Mayhems kit for prepping the system.
> 
> Now i have the part 1 and part 2 bottles, i'm going to start doing the prep this weekend maybe, but what led me to post here is that the mixing instructions in the bottles and the leaflet are not the same.
> 
> What instructions should i follow? Allways the ones in the leaflet that came in the box?
> 
> Thanks.


Always go by the leaflet instructions.

Here's Mick (Mayhems) explaining it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=SOR7SFYbcZ8#t=173


----------



## Mayhem

As above because we ship world wide and the Manual is the most update information on how to use the kit and is relative to the kit you have in the country you bought it.


----------



## Vindicare

Thank you guys!

I'm sorry for the stupid questions but im noob in what comes to water cooling and afraid to mess things up.


----------



## js593

Ive been interested in the past while to run this fluid in my system but i have a couple questions regarding tubing (if it should be replaced)

I have a black on red setup right now, Asus ROG board, with black tube, on black case with white trim. I'm curious if anyone has had a tube that hasn't clouded up, or has been "tinted" with the dye in the fluid.. Or if i should just stick with the black tubing for now.

I have to swap out, clean and and refill my entire system soon, figured i would make this change too while im at it to a color that goes with the system.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> Thank you guys!
> 
> I'm sorry for the stupid questions but im noob in what comes to water cooling and afraid to mess things up.


noob =/= newb. Big difference









Noobs refuse to learn, newbs are just new & very willing to learn.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Ive been interested in the past while to run this fluid in my system but i have a couple questions regarding tubing (if it should be replaced)
> 
> I have a black on red setup right now, Asus ROG board, with black tube, on black case with white trim. I'm curious if anyone has had a tube that hasn't clouded up, or has been "tinted" with the dye in the fluid.. Or if i should just stick with the black tubing for now.
> 
> I have to swap out, clean and and refill my entire system soon, figured i would make this change too while im at it to a color that goes with the system.


Flex tubing will always stain over extended periods of time. Soft tubing dries out and loses it's flexibility, except it doesn't because it absorbs coolant from your loop keep it's moisture. If there's dye in your loop guess what's going to be absorbed? That's right, dyed water. It's generally a slow process, probably around 6 months till you see a significant tint on the tubing. Rigid tubing is the only way to keep this from happening, since rigid tubing doesn't absorb coolant to keep soft. Red and dark blue tend to be the worst as far as staining.

-Z


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Flex tubing will always stain over extended periods of time. Soft tubing dries out and loses it's flexibility, except it doesn't because it absorbs coolant from your loop keep it's moisture. If there's dye in your loop guess what's going to be absorbed? That's right, dyed water. It's generally a slow process, probably around 6 months till you see a significant tint on the tubing. Rigid tubing is the only way to keep this from happening, since rigid tubing doesn't absorb coolant to keep soft. Red and dark blue tend to be the worst as far as staining.
> 
> -Z


Amazing. Well, if this is the case and that's what's going to happen, i might look at a different case while im at it. I was going to go with the Aurora2 red coolant to match the rest of my theme, and make it complete. But at this point i'm thinking of another GTX760 in there too. I think its time to perhaps looking at a chassis upgrade and coolant change/swap. Might as well put new rads in there while i'm at it. Its a shame too, because i have so much stuff kicking around here that i'm having trouble selling. this might just add to the pile.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Amazing. Well, if this is the case and that's what's going to happen, i might look at a different case while im at it. I was going to go with the Aurora2 red coolant to match the rest of my theme, and make it complete. But at this point i'm thinking of another GTX760 in there too. I think its time to perhaps looking at a chassis upgrade and coolant change/swap. Might as well put new rads in there while i'm at it. Its a shame too, because i have so much stuff kicking around here that i'm having trouble selling. this might just add to the pile.


If you're getting new rads, and want to switch to aurora, be sure to match the rads to aurora. Aurora likes single row rads. The thicker the radiator, the more protrusions there are at the end chambers. Aurora's nano particles tend to get stuck in those protrusions. Each new row means twice as much protrusions. Typically 1 row is 12 lanes, 2 tubes, 2 rows is 24 tubes, 3 rows is 36 tubes, etc. Not only do more protrusions mean more areas to get caught, but it also means lower coolant velocities. Lower velocities means they're more likely to get caught in said chambers. So try to stick to single row radiators when using aurora. Examples: ST-30, HWL GTS (old version and nemsesis are both good)

Picture of protrusions:


My recommendation would be the GTS Nemy in Push/pull config, geggeg did some excellent testing showing it performing as well as most other rads and low/medium speeds, and since it's roughly 25mm thinner that most rads, you could fit push/pull easily.

-Z


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If you're getting new rads, and want to switch to aurora, be sure to match the rads to aurora. Aurora likes single row rads. The thicker the radiator, the more protrusions there are at the end chambers. Aurora's nano particles tend to get stuck in those protrusions. Each new row means twice as much protrusions. Typically 1 row is 12 lanes, 2 tubes, 2 rows is 24 tubes, 3 rows is 36 tubes, etc. Not only do more protrusions mean more areas to get caught, but it also means lower coolant velocities. Lower velocities means they're more likely to get caught in said chambers. So try to stick to single row radiators when using aurora. Examples: ST-30, HWL GTS (old version and nemsesis are both good)
> 
> Picture of protrusions:
> 
> 
> My recommendation would be the GTS Nemy in Push/pull config, geggeg did some excellent testing showing it performing as well as most other rads and low/medium speeds, and since it's roughly 25mm thinner that most rads, you could fit push/pull easily.
> 
> -Z


Good to know! I had no idea about the rows in a rad making a difference with fluids! It would appear to be that my Swifttech rad is a1 row with 12 lanes. So i assume that would be good with the aurora fluid. Maybe i'll just give these a really solid clean out and flush them again. I think it would be worth a shot.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> Good to know! I had no idea about the rows in a rad making a difference with fluids! It would appear to be that my Swifttech rad is a1 row with 12 lanes. So i assume that would be good with the aurora fluid. Maybe i'll just give these a really solid clean out and flush them again. I think it would be worth a shot.


Radiator rows are only a concern with Aurora. Technically the same mechanics are employed with pastel, but pastel uses different particles that are far less likely to get caught in the chambers. If you've never blitzed the Swiftech rad it would be a good idea to do that. If you HAVE blitzed the swiftech rad, it would still be a good idea to use part 2, but part one won't have any further benefit. Part 1's main purpose is to strip flux from the solder joints. Once that's done, there isn't any surface flux and Blitz is only removing the patina. The patina is a naturally occurring form of oxidation that creates a barrier which prevents the under-laying copper from corroding. You want the patina. SO yeah, if you've used part one on it before, just use part 2 this time. Part 2 will clean anything else out.

-Z


----------



## VSG

I am seeing reports of a few guys killing pumps from Blitz Part 2 solution, and of course they can't RMA it because using something other than a proper coolant voids warranty. Not sure if this is user error or something else, just letting people know about the potential risks with this. I have used Blitz >15 times now without any perceived issues myself.


----------



## electro2u

At the moment I can think of no possible reason why a strong simple alkaline would "kill a pump..." I don't want to skip part 2. I'm only concerned with the difficulty in fully rinsing part 2 out. My kitchen drain connects to the waste disposal in an awkward and backup prone manner. My bathroom faucets aren't compatible with adapters. Not sure what else to do but prepare myself for hours and hours of filling the loop and bailing with a bucket.


----------



## VSG

Not just an alkali, a detergent as well that foams up. Like I said, I haven't had any issues myself but this will void warranty from most manufacturers.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am seeing reports of a few guys killing pumps from Blitz Part 2 solution, and of course they can't RMA it because using something other than a proper coolant voids warranty. Not sure if this is user error or something else, just letting people know about the potential risks with this. I have used Blitz >15 times now without any perceived issues myself.


Killing it from damage to the impeller's bearing, or from DDCs overheating from spinning too fast?

-Z


----------



## js593

You'll have to elaborate on the term blitzing a rad. This is the first time i have seen it posted anywhere and i can't seem to find anything on google..... Forgive my lack of knowledge....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am seeing reports of a few guys killing pumps from Blitz Part 2 solution, and of course they can't RMA it because using something other than a proper coolant voids warranty. Not sure if this is user error or something else, just letting people know about the potential risks with this. I have used Blitz >15 times now without any perceived issues myself.


I've already seen a few people talking about running it though their entire system, which is a massive, epic HUGE NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

You should be individually flushing the radiators outside of the case. Blocks are a different story, they can be easily scrubbed with just Distilled & a brush.

Just remember, IT'S POTENT ACID. It will EAT PLASTIC & Acrylic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> You'll have to elaborate on the term blitzing a rad. This is the first time i have seen it posted anywhere and i can't seem to find anything on google..... Forgive my lack of knowledge....


blitzing as in using Mayhem's rad cleaning kit, which is two stage. One stage is strong acid, second stage is an alkaline, and also strips flux.

It's only really "necessary" if you're looking to run his colored dyes, if not looking to do so, you can do it the old fashioned way.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *js593*
> 
> You'll have to elaborate on the term blitzing a rad. This is the first time i have seen it posted anywhere and i can't seem to find anything on google..... Forgive my lack of knowledge....


http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-blitz-pro.html

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I've already seen a few people talking about running it though their entire system, which is a massive, epic HUGE NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
> 
> You should be individually flushing the radiators outside of the case. Blocks are a different story, they can be easily scrubbed with just Distilled & a brush.
> 
> Just remember, IT'S POTENT ACID. It will EAT PLASTIC & Acrylic.


We're talking about part 2 through the entire system. Part 2 is supposed to be run through the entire system. :I If someone is going to run part 1 through their entire system they're going to ruin a couple hundred $$ worth of blocks. Phosphoric acid will obliterate nickle plating, crack the ever living crap out of acrylic, and probably damage soft tubing... Part 2 will do the exact opposite, it's make everything squeaky clean.

-Z


----------



## rexr0d

I think that the rads may not have been properly flushed after using the cleaner.


----------



## Mayhem

The only way you would kill a pump like that is if you had air going in the pump and you left it running. This is nothing to do with blitz part 2 or any fluid. Part 2 will never kill a pump as not only is it a Surfactant which helps the pump move it also its a highly effective degreaser and potent Biocide among other things. geggeg can you pm me a link so i can have a read my self.

As for foaming its kind of needed to help lift the particles into suspension. We've been testing using a special defoamer we have how ever when its used either as an additive in the liquid or as a extras (added via user discretion) it simply stops part 2 for working at the best of its ability. How ever as a afterthought e.g run part 2 and then flush with 1 drop of this defoamer to 1 ltr of water it instantaneously removes bubbles throughout the whole system. Obv I'm still testing this method and were still working on it but with the limited time i have atm it won't be a quick thing to finish off.

I might knock up some samples for users who may wish to try it (call it part 3) and get some feed back from them ..... how that sound and anyone interested ?

I also need to check regulations and see if there is anything to stop us from using this proprietary defoamer.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The only way you would kill a pump like that is if you had air going in the pump and you left it running. This is nothing to do with blitz part 2 or any fluid. Part 2 will never kill a pump as not only is it a Surfactant which helps the pump move it also its a highly effective degreaser and potent Biocide among other things. geggeg can you pm me a link so i can have a read my self.
> 
> As for foaming its kind of needed to help lift the particles into suspension. We've been testing using a special defoamer we have how ever when its used either as an additive in the liquid or as a extras (added via user discretion) it simply stops part 2 for working at the best of its ability. How ever as a afterthought e.g run part 2 and then flush with 1 drop of this defoamer to 1 ltr of water it instantaneously removes bubbles throughout the whole system. Obv I'm still testing this method and were still working on it but with the limited time i have atm it won't be a quick thing to finish off.
> 
> I might knock up some samples for users who may wish to try it (call it part 3) and get some feed back from them ..... how that sound and anyone interested ?
> 
> I also need to check regulations and see if there is anything to stop us from using this proprietary defoamer.


Would love to help test if ever needed. I have not been able to start my build but this would be a nice push to do so.


----------



## Vindicare

Now when using part1 we should use the normal metal caps to close the radiator.

These caps have rubber orings, will part 1 damage the caps or orings?

My ideia is to use the supplied with the radiator caps and a pair of phobya caps to close the radiator after filling it with part 1.

shaking every 10 minutes for 2 hours, then using disttiled water to rinse it as written in the instructions.

Then i would just take the phobya caps out put fittings and install the radiator in my case.

can i do this? will part 1 damage the caps and/or orings?

I'm sorry for these basic questions but i really dont want to mess up.


----------



## Mayhem

Id replace the o-ring on their caps after using with part 1. How ever saying that we've used the same caps and o-rings now on 10 different system cleans with part one and not had any issues but its always better to replace them and not take the risk.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The only way you would kill a pump like that is if you had air going in the pump and you left it running. This is nothing to do with blitz part 2 or any fluid. Part 2 will never kill a pump as not only is it a Surfactant which helps the pump move it also its a highly effective degreaser and potent Biocide among other things. geggeg can you pm me a link so i can have a read my self.
> 
> As for foaming its kind of needed to help lift the particles into suspension. We've been testing using a special defoamer we have how ever when its used either as an additive in the liquid or as a extras (added via user discretion) it simply stops part 2 for working at the best of its ability. How ever as a afterthought e.g run part 2 and then flush with 1 drop of this defoamer to 1 ltr of water it instantaneously removes bubbles throughout the whole system. Obv I'm still testing this method and were still working on it but with the limited time i have atm it won't be a quick thing to finish off.
> 
> I might knock up some samples for users who may wish to try it (call it part 3) and get some feed back from them ..... how that sound and anyone interested ?
> 
> I also need to check regulations and see if there is anything to stop us from using this proprietary defoamer.


I can give it a go in my (re)build I am starting after the holidays. I have an extra pro kit already that I'm going to use, so I'd just need the 'pt 3'.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> Now when using part1 we should use the normal metal caps to close the radiator.
> 
> These caps have rubber orings, will part 1 damage the caps or orings?
> 
> My ideia is to use the supplied with the radiator caps and a pair of phobya caps to close the radiator after filling it with part 1.
> 
> shaking every 10 minutes for 2 hours, then using disttiled water to rinse it as written in the instructions.
> 
> Then i would just take the phobya caps out put fittings and install the radiator in my case.
> 
> can i do this? will part 1 damage the caps and/or orings?
> 
> I'm sorry for these basic questions but i really dont want to mess up.


I didn't have any issues when NOT replacing mine. Suppose better safe than sorry approach is to go ahead and replace them...pretty inexpensive precaution


----------



## Vindicare

that's a good advice guys thank you so much.


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The only way you would kill a pump like that is if you had air going in the pump and you left it running. This is nothing to do with blitz part 2 or any fluid. Part 2 will never kill a pump as not only is it a Surfactant which helps the pump move it also its a highly effective degreaser and potent Biocide among other things. geggeg can you pm me a link so i can have a read my self.
> 
> As for foaming its kind of needed to help lift the particles into suspension. We've been testing using a special defoamer we have how ever when its used either as an additive in the liquid or as a extras (added via user discretion) it simply stops part 2 for working at the best of its ability. How ever as a afterthought e.g run part 2 and then flush with 1 drop of this defoamer to 1 ltr of water it instantaneously removes bubbles throughout the whole system. Obv I'm still testing this method and were still working on it but with the limited time i have atm it won't be a quick thing to finish off.
> 
> I might knock up some samples for users who may wish to try it (call it part 3) and get some feed back from them ..... how that sound and anyone interested ?
> 
> I also need to check regulations and see if there is anything to stop us from using this proprietary defoamer.


I would love to get into this. It seems i need to do all 3 steps anyways...

After doing more digging, i think my previous loop contaminated my radiators....


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The only way you would kill a pump like that is if you had air going in the pump and you left it running. This is nothing to do with blitz part 2 or any fluid. Part 2 will never kill a pump as not only is it a Surfactant which helps the pump move it also its a highly effective degreaser and potent Biocide among other things. geggeg can you pm me a link so i can have a read my self.
> 
> As for foaming its kind of needed to help lift the particles into suspension. We've been testing using a special defoamer we have how ever when its used either as an additive in the liquid or as a extras (added via user discretion) it simply stops part 2 for working at the best of its ability. How ever as a afterthought e.g run part 2 and then flush with 1 drop of this defoamer to 1 ltr of water it instantaneously removes bubbles throughout the whole system. Obv I'm still testing this method and were still working on it but with the limited time i have atm it won't be a quick thing to finish off.
> 
> I might knock up some samples for users who may wish to try it (call it part 3) and get some feed back from them ..... how that sound and anyone interested ?
> 
> I also need to check regulations and see if there is anything to stop us from using this proprietary defoamer.


Would be happy and eager to test the defoamer. I have two systems I'm working on. One I will finish very soon and one a more long term project. One with soft tubing and one with acrylic. One system has alphacool rads which I've blitz part 1nd already and I'm about to finish the soft tubing and set up part 2. The other system will be weeks/month still til ready to fill. It is using EK Coolstream and GTX Nemesis rad.

As an aside: I opted not to send out samples of the UV blue I had because there was white buildup in my loop potentially from flux and plasticizer or something like that. Also possibly some slight biotic film that the X1 was keeping from proliferating as well. There were some spots of brown/green film on a few blocks where there wasn't much flow pressure, was very easy to clean. I don't think it's fair to expect UV additives to last forever anyway, but with all the other issues I had with my loop I think it's no surprise there was some premature fading.


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I might knock up some samples for users who may wish to try it (call it part 3) and get some feed back from them ..... how that sound and anyone interested ?
> 
> I also need to check regulations and see if there is anything to stop us from using this proprietary defoamer.


I'd be happy to test it too Mick. Should be finishing up the case mods to attach the res and some other doodads in the next week or 2, then I'll be doing the Blitz Pro treatment. I may even do Pt 2 twice as I'll be adding 2 GPU blocks later as I need to test them to see which 2 of 4 I will keep.


----------



## error-id10t

The "defoamer" for Part 2 would be a great, it's a huge pain to get the foam out properly afterwards and took 4 times empting my loop, that includes getting the blocks out etc so I can scrape them clean at the same time.. was still foaming like it had rabies.


----------



## merceless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> https://www.ple.com.au/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryId=677&ManufacturerId=269
> 
> They have stock and will be getting more in soon. Were shipping gear over to them as i type this.


Just wondering, when do you think that shipment of coolant will arrive at ple? I just want to be quick to get some before it's gone


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *merceless*
> 
> Just wondering, when do you think that shipment of coolant will arrive at ple? I just want to be quick to get some before it's gone


I've ordered all mine direct from Mayhem, since they didn't seem to have Oil Black, shipping was reasonable and pretty quick


----------



## Mayhem

I dont know when PLE will get there order as i don't deal with any shipping. this is all done at the other end of the business. Mayhems is split into two parts and this is how it works.

*Me , Ian, Sylvia, (manufacturing, dev team) ->*

We do all the testing, inventing, manufacturing, bottling (except for the bottle of the dyes into 15ml), dealing with customer support and dealing with 1 off orders amongst many other things.

*Steve, Em's ->*

Deal with all sales and all the stores. They also deal with all the money, taxes and any thing like that. They also deal with repacking QC controls (rads and bottles) and many other things. Neither of them do support or frequent any water cooling forums or posts ever. They also deal with all shipping.

Between Both teams there is a 110 mile gap.

There is a 3rd team as well and we also work closed with several big blue chip companies ontop of that







.


----------



## js593

Well from the looks of things, my case wont be arriving till January anyways. So waiting a while isn't a problem at all. I guess i should ask, where are you guys located out of, and do you ship out of country?


----------



## ALT F4

Is part 2 of the kit good to use on new tubing, will it help the tubing at all or degrade it in any way?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Is part 2 of the kit good to use on new tubing, will it help the tubing at all or degrade it in any way?


from what I understand, it's best to use both parts outside of the loop. Sounds like running them through the entire loop is an epic pain in the ass.

The main goal was for radiator flushing, if you want to use them on blocks... eh... I;ve never seen a need to acid bathe blocks. They clean up easy enough with some scrubbing.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> from what I understand, it's best to use both parts outside of the loop. Sounds like running them through the entire loop is an epic pain in the ass.
> 
> The main goal was for radiator flushing, if you want to use them on blocks... eh... I;ve never seen a need to acid bathe blocks. They clean up easy enough with some scrubbing.


Bathing blocks in acid will destroy them. Only part 2 is for the blocks; it's an alkaline detergent. It's designed to lift anything from the system that might be left over from the manufacturing process or from a previous installation. I would say it is indeed a monumental task. Unless you have the right setup to flush your loop for longer than the typical 30 minutes. This is a full 12-24 hours of flushing at a pretty high pressure that will make part 2 more palatable.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> from what I understand, it's best to use both parts outside of the loop. Sounds like running them through the entire loop is an epic pain in the ass.
> 
> The main goal was for radiator flushing, if you want to use them on blocks... eh... I;ve never seen a need to acid bathe blocks. They clean up easy enough with some scrubbing.


What I'm asking is if I should use old tubing for part 2. Was wondering if the solution had any effect on the tubing.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Bathing blocks in acid will destroy them. Only part 2 is for the blocks; it's an alkaline detergent. It's designed to lift anything from the system that might be left over from the manufacturing process or from a previous installation. I would say it is indeed a monumental task. Unless you have the right setup to flush your loop for longer than the typical 30 minutes. This is a full 12-24 hours of flushing at a pretty high pressure that will make part 2 more palatable.


I mostly meant taking them apart to acid bathe them, NOT the acrylic/acetal. Really though, I see no point in running this stuff through a block. They rarely have more than a slight film on them that a good scrub can remove.

From what I understand, the original intention of this two part process was for radiators, as they're filthy hot messes, even after running them through a cleansing station like I have setup in my garage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> What I'm asking is if I should use old tubing for part 2. Was wondering if the solution had any effect on the tubing.


I personally wouldn't run it through your entire system, period, but that's just me.

I would do the radiator dance with both parts, then rinse, THEN install them.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I mostly meant taking them apart to acid bathe them, NOT the acrylic/acetal. Really though, I see no point in running this stuff through a block. They rarely have more than a slight film on them that a good scrub can remove.
> 
> From what I understand, the original intention of this two part process was for radiators, as they're filthy hot messes, even after running them through a cleansing station like I have setup in my garage.
> I personally wouldn't run it through your entire system, period, but that's just me.
> 
> I would do the radiator dance with both parts, then rinse, THEN install them.


Yeah I've ran the kit before I do know how to use it







. My last post was regarding my question though, I'm not worried about what block or rad and where, I'm curious on the effects of blitz part 2 with soft tubing.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Yeah I've ran the kit before I do know how to use it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My last post was regarding my question though, I'm not worried about what block or rad and where, I'm curious on the effects of blitz part 2 with soft tubing.


Blitz part 2 would be good for used soft tubing. Will it get rid of hazing? If the hazing is due to a film that has been deposited it may reduce it. It's certainly not going to harm soft tubing. The guys have tested the kits effects out the wazoo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I mostly meant taking them apart to acid bathe them, NOT the acrylic/acetal. Really though, I see no point in running this stuff through a block. They rarely have more than a slight film on them that a good scrub can remove.


I think you know this Skupples but I just wanted to be clear--on copper pieces of the blocks it won't harm them, but it will completely destroy nickle plated parts. I think part 2 makes a ton of sense to run through the entire loop. It may allow you to avoid dismantling complex GPU blocks which will probably not have much debris stuck in the micro channels anyway.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> What I'm asking is if I should use old tubing for part 2. Was wondering if the solution had any effect on the tubing.


Part two should have little to no effect on soft tubing. It's a non-ionic surfactant (or a detergent as some call it) with an alkaline to neutralize the pH from part 1. It's not left in the system long enough for any significant amount to be absorbed by the tubing, so it shouldn't effect it at all. Part 1 on the other hand might melt the tubing :I

-Z


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Blitz part 2 would be good for used soft tubing. Will it get rid of hazing? If the hazing is due to a film that has been deposited it may reduce it. It's certainly not going to harm soft tubing. The guys have tested the kits effects out the wazoo.
> I think you know this Skupples but I just wanted to be clear--on copper pieces of the blocks it won't harm them, but it will completely destroy nickle plated parts. I think part 2 makes a ton of sense to run through the entire loop. It may allow you to avoid dismantling complex GPU blocks which will probably not have much debris stuck in the micro channels anyway.


I think the biggest confusion here might be the Mayhem's website saying that this kit is good for entire system flushes.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think the biggest confusion here might be the Mayhem's website saying that this kit is good for entire system flushes.


It is good for the entire system flush. Part one cleans the radiators, part 2 cleans the entire system.

-Z


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It is good for the entire system flush. Part one cleans the radiators, part 2 cleans the entire system.
> 
> -Z


part one is going to be harmful to any acrylic / derlin / acetal products in your loop, from what I can tell. Though, acrylic does look pretty badass after suffering from thousands of microfractures.

At least, this is based off of the effect of vinegar on plastics, so I could be wrong.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> part one is going to be harmful to any acrylic / derlin / acetal products in your loop, from what I can tell. Though, acrylic does look pretty badass after suffering from thousands of microfractures.
> 
> At least, this is based off of the effect of vinegar on plastics, so I could be wrong.


Right, like I said. Part 1 is for the radiator, part 2 is good for everything.

-Z


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Right, like I said. Part 1 is for the radiator, part 2 is good for everything.
> 
> -Z


After reading some people having pump failure and hard to clean the foamy part2 from the loop..Is it really necessary to use part2 with brand new watercooling parts?
How about just use part1 for the alphacool rads after flush them really well with tap and distilled water and at last the flush entire system 1-2 times with distilled is ok?


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> After reading some people having pump failure and hard to clean the foamy part2 from the loop..Is it really necessary to use part2 with brand new watercooling parts?
> How about just use part1 for the alphacool rads after flush them really well with tap and distilled water and at last the flush entire system 1-2 times with distilled is ok?


If you use Pt 1 you need to use Pt 2. There are very good reasons for this that have been mentioned several times in the last 5 pages. Just trust us (and most importantly Mayhem) when we say you need to use Pt 2 if you've used Pt 1.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> After reading some people having pump failure and hard to clean the foamy part2 from the loop..Is it really necessary to use part2 with brand new watercooling parts?
> How about just use part1 for the alphacool rads after flush them really well with tap and distilled water and at last the flush entire system 1-2 times with distilled is ok?


best bet, use both parts outside of your loop, just rinse the radiators. I would only recommend manually scrubbing waterblocks via taking them apart & just using a rough sponge.


----------



## Nichismo

The X1 blue looks amazing, I just added a couple Darkside UV strips. I have been adding drops of clear blue X1 to the Pastel White loop also and its also mildly reacting to the LEDs as well. I absolutely love it.

Still need a better camera, these dont do it justice at all.


----------



## Mayhem

No one had had failure from using part two lol. We've sold now in excess of 700 blitz kits (probably only 500+ are sold the rest are on shop shelves). In that time we've never received one complaint from anyone but we do get lots of questions which the answers are on the instruction sheets and many more thank you's.

Yesterday i actually cleaned 2 plated blocks from EK, 1 GPU and 1 CPU (only took 5 min in pure solution). They both look virtually brand new now how ever i also rinsed them thoroughly afterwards in part 2 to make sure the acid was gone. Basicly if you use common sense you will have no issues what so ever, but if you do not use common sense well maybe you're in the wrong hobby.

A lot of people complain about a lot of products on the market for water cooling and 95% of them claims are user error or simply put miss representation. Blitz Part 2 will never mess up a pump but a user not turning the pump off while filling a system and letting a DDC run without being fully filled (run dry) will have issues no matter what they fill it with. Simply put think before you do any thing and learn from your mistakes.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No one had had failure from using part two lol. We've sold now in excess of 700 blitz kits (probably only 500+ are sold the rest are on shop shelves). In that time we've never received one complaint from anyone but we do get lots of questions which the answers are on the instruction sheets and many more thank you's.
> 
> Yesterday i actually cleaned 2 plated blocks from EK, 1 GPU and 1 CPU (only took 5 min in pure solution). They both look virtually brand new now how ever i also rinsed them thoroughly afterwards in part 2 to make sure the acid was gone. Basicly if you use common sense you will have no issues what so ever, but if you do not use common sense well maybe you're in the wrong hobby.
> 
> A lot of people complain about a lot of products on the market for water cooling and 95% of them claims are user error or simply put miss representation. Blitz Part 2 will never mess up a pump but a user not turning the pump off while filling a system and letting a DDC run without being fully filled (run dry) will have issues no matter what they fill it with. Simply put think before you do any thing and learn from your mistakes.


ddc has gotten alot of bad rap and exaggeration which I feel alot has been carelessness and ignorance in part on the user

But im definately going to use a Blitz kit if/when I decide for a coolant change (to a different color perhaps, however I cant see myself ever growing impartial on my current coolants, but the variety Mayhems has makes it tempting to experiment, I especially love the latest pastel black, quite the achievement for nanofluids). I love the thought of an aggressive, strong and thorough cleaning system that can restore my components to new quality without requiring a complete teardown, polishing and rubbing all over....


----------



## skupples

2x 18W DDCs running nearly 24/7 for 3 years @ full cycle.









DDC gets a bad rap because the opinion makers around these parts don't like them, thus all the parrots run around not liking them either.

Get whichever will cost you less, and stick to DDC if space is an issue.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 2x 18W DDCs running nearly 24/7 for 3 years @ full cycle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DDC gets a bad rap because the opinion makers around these parts don't like them, thus all the parrots run around not liking them either.
> 
> Get whichever will cost you less, and stick to DDC if space is an issue.


I don't think that's a fair statement. The problem is people don't research which pumps are good for what, and throw a DDC in a low restriction loop. Without enough restriction the pump spins too fast, and the coils heat up and burn out the circuit board. It's not just parroting, it's lack of homework costing people quite a bit of $$. People don't like admitting they just cost themselves money, they like a scapegoat. Been running DDCs myself since I got into water cooling (3-4 years), and never had an issue myself.

-Z


----------



## skupples

:3 my DDCs love my 15 90 degree fittings.


----------



## Vindicare

Well i blitzed my radiator.

The procedure seems complex but if you just follow whats written is actually very simple.

Did not proceed to part 2 because i found some problem with my fittings.


----------



## skupples

sigh, trying to explain to someone that pink dye turning brown is NOT Mayhem's fault = futile.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> sigh, trying to explain to someone that pink dye turning brown is NOT Mayhem's fault = futile.


Blame it on the Flux Capacitor not being clean.









-Z


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Blame it on the Flux Capacitor not being clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


at least they aren't in here raising a stink, yet.

Little do they know, if they approach Mick in the proper fashion, he would mail out samples + personally addressed directions.

They asked me about using a Ph neutralizing additive from Home Depot. My Advice was "I have no idea how that would react with the mayhem's pink pastel, so you should probably go ask, or just get Blitz, instead of Sysprepnasty"


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> at least they aren't in here raising a stink, yet.
> 
> Little do they know, if they approach Mick in the proper fashion, he would mail out samples + personally addressed directions.
> 
> They asked me about using a Ph neutralizing additive from Home Depot. My Advice was "I have no idea how that would react with the mayhem's pink pastel, so you should probably go ask, or just get Blitz, instead of Sysprepnasty"


Yeah, it amazes me how many people think coolant is like soup broth, and if it isn't right you can just keep adding stuff 'til it is fixed.









-Z


----------



## skupples

using Ph neutralizer would probably turn Mayhem's die into a spirit summoning solution, end up summoning a rage demon, or something.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> using Ph neutralizer would probably turn Mayhem's die into a spirit summoning solution, end up summoning a rage demon, or something.


This made me laugh, quite hard. Thank you.

Been rockin with X1 Blue for a few weeks now. It's one ugly build so I endearingly call it the Ugly Duckling but it sure does cool well while being quiet.









Edit: on a random note, does anyone know why my sort of new rig isn't showing up in the sig? Made it in rig builder a week or so ago but doesn't show up on posts, only in my profile.


----------



## skupples




----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> This made me laugh, quite hard. Thank you.
> 
> Been rockin with X1 Blue for a few weeks now. It's one ugly build so I endearingly call it the Ugly Duckling but it sure does cool well while being quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: on a random note, does anyone know why my sort of new rig isn't showing up in the sig? Made it in rig builder a week or so ago but doesn't show up on posts, only in my profile.


I think you need to go into the signature part on your profile and enable it. Go down and click edit signature and there should be options for you


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> using Ph neutralizer would probably turn Mayhem's die into a spirit summoning solution, end up summoning a rage demon, or something.


Sounds bout right...


----------



## js593

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> using Ph neutralizer would probably turn Mayhem's die into a spirit summoning solution, end up summoning a rage demon, or something.


lmao, winning comment right here.


----------



## skupples

next case theme = da:i rage demon inspired.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> next case theme = da:i rage demon inspired.


You know what would really be interesting with something like that? Build a rectangular tray on the top of the chassis, build a small heating coil. (really easy, just wind metal wire in a coil till it's about about 1.4Ohmz) then fill the tray with red fire glass, and propylene glycol. It'd be a really cool effect for the final pictures, or any shows.

Imagine this


With fog instead of fire.

Just spit-balling ideas.

-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> You know what would really be interesting with something like that? Build a rectangular tray on the top of the chassis, build a small heating coil. (really easy, just wind metal wire in a coil till it's about about 1.4Ohmz) then fill the tray with red fire glass, and propylene glycol. It'd be a really cool effect for the final pictures, or any shows.
> 
> Imagine this
> 
> 
> With fog instead of fire.
> 
> Just spit-balling ideas.
> 
> -Z


Someone should do eet


----------



## greg1184

I am working on making a new build in a Enthoo Primo Case. I previously used color tubing, now after seeing videos with the Mayhem X1, I considering trying out colored water with clear tubing this time around.

Those of you who are using Mayhems and flex tubing, what kind of tubing are you using? Much earlier in the thread there were recommendations for Clearflex 60, but I can't seem to find any. There is also Masterkleer, but frozencpu doesn't have it in the size I prefer. I would prefer to get the tube at 7/16 x 5/8 so I don't have to buy brand new compression fittings.

Anyone using anything else?


----------



## M4ng03z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> I am working on making a new build in a Enthoo Primo Case. I previously used color tubing, now after seeing videos with the Mayhem X1, I considering trying out colored water with clear tubing this time around.
> 
> Those of you who are using Mayhems and flex tubing, what kind of tubing are you using? Much earlier in the thread there were recommendations for Clearflex 60, but I can't seem to find any. There is also Masterkleer, but frozencpu doesn't have it in the size I prefer. I would prefer to get the tube at 7/16 x 5/8 so I don't have to buy brand new compression fittings.
> 
> Anyone using anything else?


PrimoFlex Advanced LRT seems to be the most recommended.


----------



## Vindicare

A question.

You should run your system with blitz part 2 for 24 hours, can you run the computer during this time, or should it be turned off, just the pump doing it's job?


----------



## pmac

Hoping someone in the know is available for a quick reply (Looks up at god hoping for best)

I have 1 full kit blitz part 1 & 2,
I have 2 x 360 rather thick rads and a 240 rather thick rads (not huge but by no means low profile rads. My reservoir and the tubing between the 4 items to run a flush of all 4 parts in one session, do not want to do 1 rad at a time. will fill loop and run pump through all rads at once.

Someone with an educated guess, how many bottles of part 1 and 2 will I need. The PPCS website says the part 2 only Kit makes up to 4 liters on a single 250ml bottle< is this accurate? Iif so I guess only 1 bottle of that would be required, but is it accurate is the question.

That leads us to part 1, how many bottle should I have to do 1 cleaning through all rads at once.

Is there any reason I should not do them all in one session?

Thanks for your help in advance, I am only asking for a quick reply because I am in the middle of placing an order for a part I ordered the wrong one of, and figured I should pick up the blitz balance while at it.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> Hoping someone in the know is available for a quick reply (Looks up at god hoping for best)
> 
> I have 1 full kit blitz part 1 & 2,
> I have 2 x 360 rather thick rads and a 240 rather thick rads (not huge but by no means low profile rads. My reservoir and the tubing between the 4 items to run a flush of all 4 parts in one session, do not want to do 1 rad at a time. will fill loop and run pump through all rads at once.
> 
> Someone with an educated guess, how many bottles of part 1 and 2 will I need. The PPCS website says the part 2 only Kit makes up to 4 liters on a single 250ml bottle< is this accurate? Iif so I guess only 1 bottle of that would be required, but is it accurate is the question.
> 
> That leads us to part 1, how many bottle should I have to do 1 cleaning through all rads at once.
> 
> Is there any reason I should not do them all in one session?
> 
> Thanks for your help in advance, I am only asking for a quick reply because I am in the middle of placing an order for a part I ordered the wrong one of, and figured I should pick up the blitz balance while at it.


part 1 is reusable..The remaining rads would need to sit longer. Not sure how much longer though. Definitely check the Mayhems thread for a better answer.

Sent from cellular device.


----------



## Tunz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> Hoping someone in the know is available for a quick reply (Looks up at god hoping for best)
> 
> I have 1 full kit blitz part 1 & 2,
> I have 2 x 360 rather thick rads and a 240 rather thick rads (not huge but by no means low profile rads. My reservoir and the tubing between the 4 items to run a flush of all 4 parts in one session, do not want to do 1 rad at a time. *will fill loop and run pump through all rads at once*.
> 
> Someone with an educated guess, how many bottles of part 1 and 2 will I need. The PPCS website says the part 2 only Kit makes up to 4 liters on a single 250ml bottle< is this accurate? Iif so I guess only 1 bottle of that would be required, but is it accurate is the question.
> 
> That leads us to part 1, how many bottle should I have to do 1 cleaning through all rads at once.
> 
> Is there any reason I should not do them all in one session?
> 
> Thanks for your help in advance, I am only asking for a quick reply because I am in the middle of placing an order for a part I ordered the wrong one of, and figured I should pick up the blitz balance while at it.


You don't want to do that. Part 1 is meant to be in the radiators only. Running it through your pump, or other components, may damage them.


----------



## pmac

When you say "sit" longer, am i misunderstanding this when I have the intention of mixing this stuff, filling the loop, and turning the pump on for xx hours for each part? Am I not supposed to run both trough the loop using my pumps and reservoir?

Thanks for your time.


----------



## pmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> You don't want to do that. Part 1 is meant to be in the radiators only. Running it through your pump, or other components, may damage them.


Oh, hm OK I was unaware. Thank you for that info.
Part 2 should be ok for that though with no issues I assume?


----------



## Tunz

For part 1 you will need to remove the rads from your system, fill them and let them sit. Then reinstall them and run part 2 through the loop.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

If you have the Pro Blitz kit you really should watch both of Mayhem's videos showing proper usage:

Mayhems Blitz Pro (Part 1) Vid 1 of 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOR7SFYbcZ8

Mayhems Blitz Basic (Part 2) Vid 2 of 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_IBHnUc3PM


----------



## pmac

greatly appreciated I will in fact watch those tonight as soon as I get the chance, opening them both for watching later.


----------



## skupples

man, had no clue that Mayhem's included so much stuff in that kit.


----------



## pmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunz*
> 
> For part 1 you will need to remove the rads from your system, fill them and let them sit. Then reinstall them and run part 2 through the loop.


I actually was planning to do all the cleaning while out of the case, I have enough tubing, part 1 use empty (rinse I assume then part 2 let it do its job, then empty and flush a few times then install the parts where they go and set up loop once all are clean. I have 5 gallons or RO water so I am not in any shortage of that. It's cheap like -4 for a 5 gallon jug at a water store.

I will watch thooose videos as recommended and see what I should be doing exactly, I just ordered a second full kit. I would prefer to do all rads at once, not one or two today and the last one tomorrow.(as example, looks like the project is delayed due to stupidity, I ordered the wrong backplate for my video card so i have placed an order with the mayhems full kit proper back plate and 2 bottles of oil black in case i decide to run 2 colours (sunset yellow from one reserve and oil black from the other) still unsure I will go that route though.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> A question.
> 
> You should run your system with blitz part 2 for 24 hours, can you run the computer during this time, or should it be turned off, just the pump doing it's job?


I'd just leave the computer off. If you're just doing simple stuff like web browsing you should be fine, but don't do anything stressful that might generate a lot of heat.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> When you say "sit" longer, am i misunderstanding this when I have the intention of mixing this stuff, filling the loop, and turning the pump on for xx hours for each part? Am I not supposed to run both trough the loop using my pumps and reservoir?
> 
> Thanks for your time.


Part 1 is ONLY for the radiator. Under no circumstance should it come into contact with any other components. It most likely wouldn't kill a pump, but I wouldn't risk it. Part 2 is good for the entire system.


----------



## skupples

at most, I could see part 1 weakening a gasket / o-rings, but yaeh... Running strong acid rough a system full of plastic, acrylic, derlin, acetal, & whatever else = no thanks.

IF you really want to clean your blocks, take them apart, and ONLY treat the metal with the acid, and DO NOT USE IT ON NICKEL.

though, if you had a nickel block that's started flaking,


----------



## pmac

OK thanks folks, I appreciate the advice for sure, I will watch those videos tonight, just had to go out for a while. And I will wait for the second kit to arrive, but it should be here by monday I ordered 2-3 day international express, along with a couple other items, Mayhems Oil Black being one of them. Sounds nice!


----------



## skupples

oof, starting with black first? That seems to be one of the most temperamental products when it comes to adverse effects due to Ph.


----------



## pmac

well I wouldn't mind some advice if any is to be given on it, but my primary color was yellow as the color scheme is yellow and black, and I will have 2 reservoirs so I figured one yellow one black.
Iit is sunset yellow pastel I have on hand right now. If I require a PH additive one way or another, would some one let me know what to get, I obviously have the ph meter so testing ph won't be an issue.
But being Mayhems, which are pretty picky on what you add to their fluids, I my be limited to stuff they make?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> well I wouldn't mind some advice if any is to be given on it, but my primary color was yellow as the color scheme is yellow and black, and I will have 2 reservoirs so I figured one yellow one black.
> Iit is sunset yellow pastel I have on hand right now. If I require a PH additive one way or another, would some one let me know what to get, I obviously have the ph meter so testing ph won't be an issue.
> But being Mayhems, which are pretty picky on what you add to their fluids, I my be limited to stuff they make?


Coolant isn't like chicken soup, you can't just add stuff till the mixture is JUUUST right. With coolants typically you don't use pH additives. Pastel should already be pH balanced, so just use pastel, distilled, and dye if needed. Seeing as how you're using pastel, it'd be wise to Blitz the radiators if you have not done so already.

-Z


----------



## skupples

I would be terrified to see what happens when you mix Aurora with a Ph Additive.

Would probably end up like a Failed "My First Chemistry Set" Experiment. Turn the whole loop into one giant crystalline object.


----------



## electro2u

I'm slightly scared of Aurora anyway... I mean I *know* it's tried and tested but it looks radioactive! =)


----------



## pmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> oof, starting with black first? That seems to be one of the most temperamental products when it comes to adverse effects due to Ph.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Coolant isn't like chicken soup, you can't just add stuff till the mixture is JUUUST right. With coolants typically you don't use pH additives. Pastel should already be pH balanced, so just use pastel, distilled, and dye if needed. Seeing as how you're using pastel, it'd be wise to Blitz the radiators if you have not done so already.
> 
> -Z


If you notice why was asking there, it is becausee of the post prior to my reply ......the poster said "oof starting with black first....adverse effects due to PH....there for I assume (yeah yeah we know what that does) that there is an issue with blacks PH?
Please step in if this is not true, and perhaps Mayhems can chime in on this somehow??

Thanks again for feedback, I won't learn through your mistakes if you don't tell me where you screwed up your first time


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> If you notice why was asking there, it is becausee of the post prior to my reply ......the poster said "oof starting with black first....adverse effects due to PH....there for I assume (yeah yeah we know what that does) that there is an issue with blacks PH?
> Please step in if this is not true, and perhaps Mayhems can chime in on this somehow??
> 
> Thanks again for feedback, I won't learn through your mistakes if you don't tell me where you screwed up your first time


Pastel black IS the most sensitive pastel colour. That being said, this is why we have Blitz. The primary contaminant that messes up coolants is flux. Flux exists in the solder used to bind radiators. Over time it can get pulled out of the solder joints into the coolant. This is where the issue starts. Blitz part 1 strips the surface flux from the solder joints. Once it's gone, it's gone: more flux won't magically appear. So if you Blitz the radiators properly you shouldn't have an issue with Pastel black. Even if there WAS a recommended pH buffer for pastel coolants, it would not change the effect flux has on the coolant. So yeah, moral of the story is if you use pastel definitely blitz your radiators.

Please note, as I said, once the flux is gone, it's gone. Part 1 of blitz is solely designed to remove strip contaminants from the manufacturing process from the radiator. Once you've blitzed a rad properly, you never NEED to use part 1 on the radiator again. Once the flux is gone, repeated uses of part 1 will just strip the patina. Patina is a naturally forming form of oxidation that prevents underlying copper from corroding. You want the patina, so don't use repeated applications of part 1. Part 2 can be used limitless times without effecting the patina.

-Z


----------



## pmac

Completely and unequivocally understood. I have no intention of ever running a loop again without properly cleaning it...i.e mayhems blitz pro kit. I have one on the way and one upstairs itching to be used.
(I guess I took the previous poster to literal and thought there was something overly special about the oil black)

I watched the first video that was recommended to me a little earleir on about the part on of the system, good watch, the guy at Dazmode in canada said in his expert opinion that spending money on rad cleaning solutions is a waste of money and just a cash grab. So I followed that advice and threw my rad on after some vinegar rinses.....whe I removved the cloudy tubing yesterday, and got all the fluid out of the loop, the hoses were whitish, and BROWN on the ends close to the compression fittings, the fittinds were fine, but the tubing said a thousand words. It was gross.

I will be cleaning these 3 rads thoroughly, prior to any other loop set up. I think I will start tomorrow night on at least one rad, maybe all 3 if 1 litre will fill all 3

Thank you fro being polite despite how repetitive you probably felt your post was. I appreciate the feedback!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> Completely and unequivocally understood. I have no intention of ever running a loop again without properly cleaning it...i.e mayhems blitz pro kit. I have one on the way and one upstairs itching to be used.
> (I guess I took the previous poster to literal and thought there was something overly special about the oil black)
> 
> I watched the first video that was recommended to me a little earleir on about the part on of the system, good watch, the guy at Dazmode in canada said in his expert opinion that spending money on rad cleaning solutions is a waste of money and just a cash grab. So I followed that advice and threw my rad on after some vinegar rinses.....whe I removved the cloudy tubing yesterday, and got all the fluid out of the loop, the hoses were whitish, and BROWN on the ends close to the compression fittings, the fittinds were fine, but the tubing said a thousand words. It was gross.
> 
> I will be cleaning these 3 rads thoroughly, prior to any other loop set up. I think I will start tomorrow night on at least one rad, maybe all 3 if 1 litre will fill all 3
> 
> Thank you fro being polite despite how repetitive you probably felt your post was. I appreciate the feedback!


Well in all fairness, the clouding on your tubing is probably due to plasticizers, excluding the brown buildup at the ends which is likely due to flux deposits. Stick to Primochill Advanced LRT to prevent that clouding. Generally flux isn't an issue unless you're using Pastel, red, or UV pink dye (Pastel black uses both red dye, and of course is pastel.). They tend to have adverse reactions to flux. Beyond that, most radiator companies clean their rads very well before shipping them out, negating the "need" to blitz them. While his statement is a little misleading, and rather harsh, it is not entirely wrong. Then there's the handful of companies that do very little cleaning, and in many cases absolutely no cleaning, in order to bring the price down. Guess which radiators are some of the most popular on the market? Yup, the ones that aren't clean.
-Z


----------



## pmac

Sorry, what is Primochill Advanced LRT?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> Sorry, what is Primochill Advanced LRT?


A soft tubing that contains no DEHP plasticizers. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17587/ex-tub-1575/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_38ID_x_58_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Clear_PFLEXA10-58.html?tl=c99s1615b46&id=patRpfoN

Without plasticizers tubing is rigid. Diethylhexyl phthalate,, or DEHP for short, is a type of plasticizers commonly used in flexible tubing. It also has a tendency to leach out of the tubing, giving you tiny white/clear particles lining the tubing, as well as depositing around the loop. Adv LRT contains no DEHP, so that doesn't happen with it.

-Z


----------



## pmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> A soft tubing that contains no DEHP plasticizers. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17587/ex-tub-1575/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_Advanced_LRT_Tubing_38ID_x_58_OD_-_10ft_Retail_Pack_-_Clear_PFLEXA10-58.html?tl=c99s1615b46&id=patRpfoN
> 
> Without plasticizers tubing is rigid. Diethylhexyl phthalate,, or DEHP for short, is a type of plasticizers commonly used in flexible tubing. It also has a tendency to leach out of the tubing, giving you tiny white/clear particles lining the tubing, as well as depositing around the loop. Adv LRT contains no DEHP, so that doesn't happen with it.
> 
> -Z


OK if this is something common, is there somewhere to find my desired size tubing? 1/2 x 5//8" I have way too many compression fittings at this stage of the game to change those, tubing sure I'lll give it a whirl, but 2 dozen fittings and a dozen quick connects,, way too expensive to change if they don't have the size I need.

Do you think this would be the equivalent to the Pimochill?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16792/ex-tub-1366/Tygon_E-1000_12_ID_58_OD_-_Plasticizer_Free_Flexible_Tubing_ADK00036.html?tl=g30c99s172


----------



## cyphon

Tygon tubing is generally pretty good. Think it usually yellows over time, but usually doesn't have other issues


----------



## greg1184

What UV lighting are you all using for your coolant?


----------



## pmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> What UV lighting are you all using for your coolant?


Me or ? I have Standard UV cathodes but not sure if I iwll use them, however none of the coolants or tubing is UV reactive so If I do they will just be used for lighting in general. plus a few UV Led's for the waterblock I believe....I assume you were asking me?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> What UV lighting are you all using for your coolant?


For UV specifically avoid LEDs like the devil's rectum. UV LEDs emit around 8% UV light, the rest is purple/blue light. Stick to Cold Cathodes for UV light. As to what brand, it really doesn't matter. There aren't any particularly nice cathodes on the market these days, which means don't worry about brand.

-Z


----------



## cyphon

Pastel + Dye + Aurora Booster test was a great success!! pics coming soon...maybe even a video


----------



## electro2u

Got my acrylic build up and running as far as not leaking everywhere finally. So I went ahead and started *Blitz Part II*

I am a big Blitz fan already.

Part II is visibly removing some yellow/greenish slime stain from my nickel RAM blocks, which I even could not get off scrubbing with a toothbrush and soapy water. I actually went to the trouble of completely taking them apart (omg RAM block orings suck to put back on) and then hardly made a dent on the staining. Within 45 min Blitz II has them on the run big time. It's the part of the RAM blocks in between the channels that coolant doesn't really get to, but it just kinda sits there because there's a tiny tiny gap between the acrylic and the block

I am just super impressed... honestly, thank you Mayhems.


----------



## cyphon

Here;s a vid of the pastel + aurora booster. Shot from my phone, so the quality is a bit lacking unfortunately.



My notes:
- Effect is slightly more subtle than the aurora on its own
- The fluid looks 'thicker'
- Makes the pastel shiny (hard to see on the video)
- Looks like liquid metal

I took some stills with my DSLR, so I'll try to get those posted later today.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Got my acrylic build up and running as far as not leaking everywhere finally. So I went ahead and started *Blitz Part II*
> 
> I am a big Blitz fan already.
> 
> Part II is visibly removing some yellow/greenish slime stain from my nickel RAM blocks, which I even could not get off scrubbing with a toothbrush and soapy water. I actually went to the trouble of completely taking them apart (omg RAM block orings suck to put back on) and then hardly made a dent on the staining. Within 45 min Blitz II has them on the run big time. It's the part of the RAM blocks in between the channels that coolant doesn't really get to, but it just kinda sits there because there's a tiny tiny gap between the acrylic and the block
> 
> I am just super impressed... honestly, thank you Mayhems.


I had a similar experience where it cleaned a block I could not clean by scrubbing. Pretty freakin sweet ain't it?!


----------



## Vindicare

Well i sorted my problem with fittings, loop is built and i'm now running blitz 2 on the system
A little afraid of the bubble problem i thinned the mix just a little.

It's now running for 2 hours already, it did foam a bit at the start you just need to be carefull when filling the loop, but now that have subsided a lot just a thin layer of bubbles on top of the reservoir.

So far so good.


----------



## Vindicare

Ok my loop has been running for 6 hours more or less.

Zero bubbles it's just like normal fluid now in appearence is this normal?


----------



## pmac

Order was shipped from Florida USA yesterday, I received my order tonight in Ontario Canada 1500-1800 miles north.



I had another part or 2 in the order. PPCS way to go getting me my order so freakishly quick. Mayhems make sure to keep them as a reseller, I have had nothing but excellent experiences this year, aside from a CSR but they took care of that person and me for the trouble. There's more to it than just today's order, but excellent.

Mayhems Sunset Yellow and Oil Black. I chose the concentrate with the yellow because it and shipping were cheaper, but this time the 1L Oil black was about (guess) 30% cheaper than the concentrate, and that offset the shipping so i took the premixed.
Started on 2 RADs with my first Blitz pro kit earlier today. ...one rad left, I don't have plugs for it so I have to wait until the 2 I'm working on are done tomorrow sometime. If I remember I will take a pic of what comes out of them all.

There's a wee bottle of Biocide there as well, but I have been told not to use it, so it will go on the shelf for use only, if I ever just go with Pure water in the loop.


----------



## Nomadskid

How do I make a dark red coolant? Using just the red makes the pastel base turn pink, I added blue but I don't want to turn it purple


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> How do I make a dark red coolant? Using just the red makes the pastel base turn pink, I added blue but I don't want to turn it purple


It takes a lot of dye to get pastel colored. I've dyed just under 2L of white to a dark red and it took like 1 whole bottle of deep red dye and then more from a regular red dye bottle that I had.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> Ok my loop has been running for 6 hours more or less.
> 
> Zero bubbles it's just like normal fluid now in appearence is this normal?


Mine is mostly just totally clear after 17 hours. There is still a slight foaming in the reservoir but I have my pump running full blast and it's a bay res pump housing.


----------



## electro2u

I've just drained the Blitz Part II after 24 hours of running it at maximum speed and it didn't foam much on the way out at all.
I refilled with distilled. It's running again and very little foam.
My take on people having trouble with foaminess (as there is absolutely NO reason I will need to dismantle and clean out the system or any of the components after another flush or 2)
Is that #1 They are not using a proper mixture and/or
#2 They are not able or just don't properly drain their system--it's difficult to completely drain a loop as we all know. I spent about 20 minutes turning my case all around this way and that to get almost all of the coolant out, also, I disconnected one of my acrylic tubes to get an extra drain point.
And/or
#3 not removing air from the system before capping
#4 not running long enough.
Absolutely no reason I would need to hook up my loop to the sink to flush it. I would if I could but it's just not really something I can easily do. I have drainage issues with my sinks.

I am very very happy with the results and pleasantly surprised at how little foam I'm having to deal with.
Used 37.5mL of Part II and 1462.5mL of DI water to make 1.5L of Blitz II and when I first put it in the system it was so foamy it was crawling out of my open air release port on my bay res.


----------



## Mayhem

Thank you for all your comments. Were still looking and investigating why some people have lots of foam. We will keep working on it


----------



## littlesackninja

Hi Meyhem, I am currently about to take apart my loop, 1xAlphacool XT45 360mm, EK Supreme LTX Acetal and Nickel, and your XT-1 Blood red dye, and a mayhems kill coil, do you recommend taking out the kill coil due to the nickel and XT-1, i wasnt sure if XT-1 had anti -algae?


----------



## Vindicare

ok first 24 hours passed, flushed system and doing first disttiled water rinse.

minimal bubbles if any.


----------



## Vindicare

second flush running, i don't see any foaming in my system now.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *littlesackninja*
> 
> Hi Meyhem, I am currently about to take apart my loop, 1xAlphacool XT45 360mm, EK Supreme LTX Acetal and Nickel, and your XT-1 Blood red dye, and a mayhems kill coil, do you recommend taking out the kill coil due to the nickel and XT-1, i wasnt sure if XT-1 had anti -algae?


XT-1 has got all ya needs. Take the kill coil out


----------



## stickg1

I wouldn't lead you astray ninja! But yeah, I got the info I posted on Tom's from hanging out here


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I've just drained the Blitz Part II after 24 hours of running it at maximum speed and it didn't foam much on the way out at all.
> I refilled with distilled. It's running again and very little foam.
> My take on people having trouble with foaminess (as there is absolutely NO reason I will need to dismantle and clean out the system or any of the components after another flush or 2)
> Is that #1 They are not using a proper mixture and/or
> #2 They are not able or just don't properly drain their system--it's difficult to completely drain a loop as we all know. I spent about 20 minutes turning my case all around this way and that to get almost all of the coolant out, also, I disconnected one of my acrylic tubes to get an extra drain point.
> And/or
> #3 not removing air from the system before capping
> #4 not running long enough.
> Absolutely no reason I would need to hook up my loop to the sink to flush it. I would if I could but it's just not really something I can easily do. I have drainage issues with my sinks.
> 
> I am very very happy with the results and pleasantly surprised at how little foam I'm having to deal with.
> Used 37.5mL of Part II and 1462.5mL of DI water to make 1.5L of Blitz II and when I first put it in the system it was so foamy it was crawling out of my open air release port on my bay res.


Maybe something went wrong if you didn't get the initial foam, that's sort of the process behind part 2 cleaning and doing it's tricks. Mayhem himself uses the sink to flush their systems, it's not so much users confused or using the product improperly. Majority of the people using this product are not novice water coolers so we can rule out majority of the list

I ran full blitz kit for the second time this weekend, I had same result as first time. I simply just dismantled and flushed with sink to avoid the residues that I can't see kicking it back up afterwards.


----------



## electro2u

There was so much foam at first it was crawling out of my reservoir ports.

2 30minute flushes wasn't near enough, though. Bubbles were still coming out from my last block and some foam in the reservoir from the return line. Took several gallons of distilled to get it clear. Again, I think the important thing is being able to fully drain your loop. Experienced water cooler or not, your system may be very very difficult to completely drain.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> There was so much foam at first it was crawling out of my reservoir ports.
> 
> 2 30minute flushes wasn't near enough, though. Bubbles were still coming out from my last block and some foam in the reservoir from the return line. Took several gallons of distilled to get it clear. Again, I think the important thing is being able to fully drain your loop. Experienced water cooler or not, your system may be very very difficult to completely drain.


Yeah to get every drop out is practically impossible, I did mine outside the case, but I think majority of people who ran part 1 would be doing part 2 outside the case due to either radiators being removed from current build or not even put in for new builds.

For mine personally after I ran ~12 hours, I ran different intervals for the flush to clean part 2 but after so much water I realized I should just take it apart and flush part by part. I am anxious to see what product Mayhem puts out as a defoamer, I've been looking for adapters to run on my sink but could not find ones that worked so I did my flushes open faucet this time.


----------



## Vindicare

I did get some foam initially but it subsided after a few hours.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems havoc ... gone mad

Still working and not leaking .. thks delivery guys even double boxing cannot fix this ...........


----------



## VSG

Oh god what happened there? I thought we had the worst delivery guys over here but that takes the cake.


----------



## Bluemustang

Question: I'm looking for some white coolant and i thought the UV white sounded good. In USA so frozencpu has the UV white HERE but it shows a picture of it in UV and it looks more like a pastel blue.

But looking on mayhems own site HERE it shows the UV white as a nice UV.....WHITE, color. Which is it? If its going to end up looking pastel blue i'll just go with either ice white or pastel white.

Thank you.

PS: If anyone knows of videos showing the UV white in action id appreciate it. Could only find ice white on youtube.


----------



## Mayhem

they are both correct it all depends on what UV lights you use ...


----------



## Bluemustang

I'll be using UV blue LED lighting probably (depending on what i can find, def blue though). How will that turn out?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems havoc ... gone mad
> 
> Still working and not leaking .. thks delivery guys even double boxing cannot fix this ...........


Have you tried turning it off and on again?

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Question: I'm looking for some white coolant and i thought the UV white sounded good. In USA so frozencpu has the UV white HERE but it shows a picture of it in UV and it looks more like a pastel blue.
> 
> But looking on mayhems own site HERE it shows the UV white as a nice UV.....WHITE, color. Which is it? If its going to end up looking pastel blue i'll just go with either ice white or pastel white.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> PS: If anyone knows of videos showing the UV white in action id appreciate it. Could only find ice white on youtube.


UV White isn't a thing. The UV white in Pastel is actually just the Clear/UV Blue dye, so the pastel stays white under normal light but glows blue under UV light. It can be more or less blue depending on how much UV light there is, and if you add more invisible blue dye.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> I'll be using UV blue LED lighting probably (depending on what i can find, def blue though). How will that turn out?


Avoid using UV LEDs if at all possible. They only emit around 8% UV light, the rest is in the visible spectrum. They're basically glorified purple LEDs. LEDs are great for spot effects, not so much for ambient lighting. Stick to cold cathodes for UV effects and ambient lighting.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Apparently it was a forklift driver whose basicly rammed the pallet, appently he works for xspc. lol


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Apparently it was a forklift driver whose basicly rammed the pallet, appently he works for xspc. lol


No, if he worked for XSPC he'd claim the Forklift was at fault, and refuse to do business with that hardware dealer anymore.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem




----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems havoc ... gone mad
> 
> Still working and not leaking .. thks delivery guys even double boxing cannot fix this ...........


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Apparently it was a forklift driver whose basicly rammed the pallet, appently he works for xspc. lol


I like the new around the corner design you have made , oh hang on







XSPC design im confused who designed this ?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems havoc ... gone mad
> 
> Still working and not leaking .. thks delivery guys even double boxing cannot fix this ...........


You might be on to something tho lol. Could see this something like this being useful in the top of case 2-3 fan spaces, and then coming down to the rear fan slot.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You might be on to something tho lol. Could see this something like this being useful in the top of case 2-3 fan spaces, and then coming down to the rear fan slot.


And all he'd need to do to start producing them is ram a fork lift into his current supply.

-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> And all he'd need to do to start producing them is ram a fork lift into his current supply.
> 
> -Z


shouldn't be too hard to arrange


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> shouldn't be too hard to arrange


----------



## Doc3379

Over the last few weeks I've been considering switching back to my TJ07 case. Now that Mayhems makes a 480 rad I was thinking about giving it a try. Do you think a single 480 rad could support a 4770k and 2 - GTX980's?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> Over the last few weeks I've been considering switching back to my TJ07 case. Now that Mayhems makes a 480 rad I was thinking about giving it a try. Do you think a single 480 rad could support a 4770k and 2 - GTX980's?


Depends what kind of Delta temps you want. The Havoc rads are around the top of the charts at most fan speeds, but you can't expect miracles from it. It'll pull it off, but don't expect to push any huge overclocks, and don't expect really low temps.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

it will handle it as said and it will keep you system quiet how ever for a heavy over clock you may need a little more oomph. With a Tj07 you could fit a 360/240 in there as well or a slim line in the roof.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems havoc ... gone mad
> 
> Still working and not leaking .. thks delivery guys even double boxing cannot fix this ...........


When will this be available in the online store?


----------



## VSG

It's been available from their online store for weeks now: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/radiators/


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> When will this be available in the online store?


That's actually a good idea. It'd be funny as hell to raffle this off as a joke. Like 1 ticket per bottle of coolant or something like that. XD

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's been available from their online store for weeks now: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/radiators/


Take a closer look at the radiator in the picture geg.

-Z


----------



## VSG

I did, and I am almost positive he was just asking about the regular rads. Funny if he wasn't though


----------



## Turbz

I've purchased a Blitz Pro kit. I've just measured the volume of my Alphacool UT60 and it's just under 0.5L. I have four UT60s and being as Part1 dilutes to 1L, I need a second bottle to clean all four rads.

So, question is, can I buy the Part 1 acid on its own? I don't see it separately on mayhems website, which is understandable, but I don't need a whole second kit


----------



## electro2u

You can reuse Part 1.l Use a coffee filter to remove floaters from the used liquid and go at it again.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> You can reuse Part 1.l Use a coffee filter to remove floaters from the used liquid and go at it again.


using coffe filter for part 1 is not advised:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/9000_100#post_23256877


----------



## Mayhem

Contact me directly via PM and ill get one sent out to you (once you provide proof of purchase of the blitz pro kit). After xmas im going to look at selling part one on it own but only through our store and you'll only be able to purchase it if you agree that you fully understand the issues of not using it with protection and gloves and you will all so have to be over the age of 16 too ... (thats my decision)

Mick


----------



## Mayhem

BTW forgot to say we will be closed on the 25 dec and the 1 jan and will not be taking any orders. Orders will be processed and shipped asap on every other day that we can ship.

*Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year* to everyone ...

Oh before i forget there are only a few 480s left in the store and well once there gone, they're gone ....


----------



## Doc3379

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Depends what kind of Delta temps you want. The Havoc rads are around the top of the charts at most fan speeds, but you can't expect miracles from it. It'll pull it off, but don't expect to push any huge overclocks, and don't expect really low temps.
> 
> -Z


I knew I would be cutting it close with only having the one 480. But I was hoping that with the new design and the fact that the 980's run cooler than there predecessors that it would work. I need to just plan on having two rads to be safe. Thanks for the input.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc3379*
> 
> I knew I would be cutting it close with only having the one 480. But I was hoping that with the new design and the fact that the 980's run cooler than there predecessors that it would work. I need to just plan on having two rads to be safe. Thanks for the input.


Well I mean in reality you can cool a LOT of hardware on a very little amount of radiator. You'll just have hot core temps (rivaling amateur air cooling) and not too quiet fans. Remember when Asus threw two 7970 GPUs (600 watts at full load) on a 120mm radiator, and sold it as ROG gear? It all depends what kind of temperatures you want. I'd throw in a 480 and a GTS Nemy in up top. Those new Nemesis GT Stealth rads are pretty solid performers for a slim rad. That should give you enough room to keep temps down. Still wont be able to push any crazy overclocks, but temps will be down and fans will be quiet at that rad space.

-Z


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well I mean in reality you can cool a LOT of hardware on a very little amount of radiator. You'll just have hot core temps (rivaling amateur air cooling) and not too quiet fans. Remember when Asus threw two 7970 GPUs (600 watts at full load) on a 120mm radiator, and sold it as ROG gear? It all depends what kind of temperatures you want. I'd throw in a 480 and a GTS Nemy in up top. Those new Nemesis GT Stealth rads are pretty solid performers for a slim rad. That should give you enough room to keep temps down. Still wont be able to push any crazy overclocks, but temps will be down and fans will be quiet at that rad space.
> 
> -Z


Hence the reason why I'm going to use 2 480's to cool: Mobo, Memory, CPU, and possibly 2 GPU's. Rather have too much rad than not enough


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Hence the reason why I'm going to use 2 480's to cool: Mobo, Memory, CPU, and possibly 2 GPU's. Rather have too much rad than not enough


Hope you have a LOT of pump power. Generally Memeory, Mobo, and the such generate next to no heat, maybe a couple dozen watts, but the blocks are generally really restrictive, like 1 PSI drop @ 1gpm. I'd be sure to run Dual pump on that setup. Mobo, and memory are kinda funny because they run themselves up to 80 something Celsius if they aren't cooled sufficiently, but they don't actually generate much heat.

-Z


----------



## DarthBaggins

I was looking at the Aquacomputer Aquastream XT to use as a pump since I know the single MCP355 I currently have needs to be retired lol


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I was looking at the Aquacomputer Aquastream XT to use as a pump since I know the single MCP355 I currently have needs to be retired lol




Need something with a bit more juice than that if you want to hit the 1GPM standard. You're looking at around 5.5-7 PSI pressure drop @ 1GPM with your purposed loop.

On an unrelated note, is the XT an Eheim rebrand or an AC in-house pump?

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

The Aquacomputer Aquastream XT with 1 GPU, 1x CPU, 2 Chip set and monitoring probs worked, how ever only at 89 ltrs per hour, If it tried more than that it would go into reset mode which is annoying as hell. Also the inner diameter is smaller than a DDC or D5 with a manufactured top. I would just go D5 variable.


----------



## DarthBaggins

that was my other option to go D5 (dual), just not looking forward to swapping to nickel on this build for the waterblocks, but they don't make my board block in copper. But it'll look nice in all acrylic, just trying to plan on how to have it be able to be broken down easiley for if and when I have to move the [email protected] once I'm done and running (not looking forward to that part)


----------



## ivoryg37

Does the mayhem aurora booster clog up blocks if added to the pastel?


----------



## Mayhem

Aurora booster need to follow the same rules as Aurora and Aurora 2.

Well this will be news for some who know what im talking about. A dye we've been working on which is Pink and Deep Red was spilt today all over my hands and all over the wooden table and left for 1 hour ....... Then wiped off with just water ................... Now its not UV active but PH stable between 5.8 to PH 9. It is all so not a pigment but a dye ........ All-so its not sustainable to perspiration ............







... this has been a long time coming this... Also due to its make it its human and animal safe and doesn't have to conform to the REACH regulations. There is another fascinating feature of this product that were currently testing and if it works we will have hit the holy grail of dyes for water cooling and the holy grail of coolants......

The colour range would primly consist of 3 colour but with them 3 colours we can crate a lot more. They wont be UV Active but this is some thing we can look into the future.


----------



## Agenesis

Will the red dye work with ethylene glycol?

Specifically this; http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21400/ex-liq-95/Feser_Base_Corrosion_Blocker_-_50mL_-_FB-0055.html


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Will the red dye work with ethylene glycol?
> 
> Specifically this; http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21400/ex-liq-95/Feser_Base_Corrosion_Blocker_-_50mL_-_FB-0055.html


Should be fine. The Mayhem's xt1 is EG based and the dye works well in that.


----------



## telegirl81

Hi all - I've been lurking a lot, but time to start posting.









I have a build going that is white, grey, and teal themed. The coolant color I'd love to have is a pastel teal - any advice on how to get this? I've experimented with the Pastel White concentrate, and then the Blue and Green dyes. However, the blue dye just seems to overpower everything, and the best I end up with is a blue coolant that has a slight greenish tint.

Thanks in advance, and happy holidays


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Does the mayhem aurora booster clog up blocks if added to the pastel?


Sorry for late reply: The short answer? No, the particles are too small to cause physical obstruction of the blocks. Cyphon and I have done the math a couple times, but to sum it up the probability of enough nano particles to sticking together to cause complete physical obstruction is next to zero.
-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> that was my other option to go D5 (dual), just not looking forward to swapping to nickel on this build for the waterblocks, but they don't make my board block in copper. But it'll look nice in all acrylic, just trying to plan on how to have it be able to be broken down easiley for if and when I have to move the [email protected] once I'm done and running (not looking forward to that part)


Dual D5s would work. A single DDC 3.2 (MCP35x) might work as well. The DDC will probably get you around .9GPM. Dual D5s will get you well above 1GPM.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Will the red dye work with ethylene glycol?
> 
> Specifically this; http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21400/ex-liq-95/Feser_Base_Corrosion_Blocker_-_50mL_-_FB-0055.html


Should work fine. Keep in mind red dye tends to react with flux in the radiator. It'd be a good idea blitz the rad to prevent discolouration.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telegirl81*
> 
> Hi all - I've been lurking a lot, but time to start posting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a build going that is white, grey, and teal themed. The coolant color I'd love to have is a pastel teal - any advice on how to get this? I've experimented with the Pastel White concentrate, and then the Blue and Green dyes. However, the blue dye just seems to overpower everything, and the best I end up with is a blue coolant that has a slight greenish tint.
> 
> Thanks in advance, and happy holidays


Blue dye (Not dark blue), and probably a tad bit of yellow would be my guess. Cyphon is better with dying pastel than I am, so might want to wait for his two cents.

-Z


----------



## DarthBaggins

Since I'll be forced to swap to nickel blocks which coolant is going to be my best bet, since I know any Aurora is out of the question due to the restrictions in the board blocks and I do need something that will work over 2years+ even with running it through a filter whenever I drain the loop to swap out for new components?


----------



## Mayhem

simple one pastel is you best bet.


----------



## DarthBaggins

cool, cause I really like the look of the Mint Green or make GigaByte Orange


----------



## Mayhem

Dont forget if you running Alpha Cool rads use the blitz kits to keep them in tip top condition.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know better than to run Alphastool, lol. But either way I'll flush rads prior to use no matter the manufacturer









Also I guess I should run distilled prior to putting the Pastel in my loop to ensure a stable PH as well?


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh that's a good idea.


----------



## electro2u

Mayhems X1 UV Purple


----------



## fleetfeather

Needs more carbon wrap imo


----------



## Ovrclck

Dumb question, finally got part 1 finished on all my rads. Started flushing with distilled before going with part 2. I've gone though 4 gallons and I'm still seeing lots of flux and black particles. At this point, should I just go ahead with part 2?

Sent from cellular device.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Needs more carbon wrap imo


Guess it's time to get rid of that junk, huh?


----------



## ALT F4

Left side Mayhems pastel red with small amount of water, right side Mayhems pastel red. Not great pics, quick cell phone shots



Funny thing that small amount of water sit on top of res and just condensates, makes me want to get more coolant and flush!!


----------



## Nomadskid

@Mayhem You'll be happy to know the Dye replacements arrived safely and without bursting in the mail like last time.


----------



## Nichismo

Finally got a better camera now that Christmas is over









Still learning it a bit though, however ive finally got some better pics of the rig....

I added some leftover coolant that consisted of some x1 blue concentrate, distilled water and a little x1 clear uv blue dye, to the pastel white reservoir.


----------



## telegirl81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Blue dye (Not dark blue), and probably a tad bit of yellow would be my guess. Cyphon is better with dying pastel than I am, so might want to wait for his two cents.
> 
> -Z


Aha, I didn't think of yellow - thank you! I had read online that with paints, teal is made from blue and green, so that's where I started - but I was surprised at how dominant the blue dye was! I will give yellow a shot too.









By the way, this is the color I'm hoping to get close to:



Thanks again!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Mayhems X1 UV Purple
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Needs more carbon wrap imo
Click to expand...

You need additional pylons.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Dumb question, finally got part 1 finished on all my rads. Started flushing with distilled before going with part 2. I've gone though 4 gallons and I'm still seeing lots of flux and black particles. At this point, should I just go ahead with part 2?
> 
> Sent from cellular device.


Part 2 is a potent surfactant. It's job is to lift particles into suspension, so when you drain it removes them. It's job is literally to get the flux and black particles out, that is after part 1 has stripped them from the solder joints. To digress, yes: Moving on to part 2 is exactly what you should do.









-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telegirl81*
> 
> Aha, I didn't think of yellow - thank you! I had read online that with paints, teal is made from blue and green, so that's where I started - but I was surprised at how dominant the blue dye was! I will give yellow a shot too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, this is the color I'm hoping to get close to:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again!


Well green is blue and yellow. Adding green to the blue would probably not be sufficient to increase the.... green-ness. (That's a word okay) Add yellow REALLY slowly. You can probably get REALLY close to teal with just blue dye. Again, when I say blue dye I mean this dye, not this dye.

-Z


----------



## telegirl81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well green is blue and yellow. Adding green to the blue would probably not be sufficient to increase the.... green-ness. (That's a word okay) Add yellow REALLY slowly. You can probably get REALLY close to teal with just blue dye. Again, when I say blue dye I mean this dye, not this dye.
> 
> -Z


That is totally a word!







Thanks - that's the blue dye I have already, so I'll get some yellow soon and experiment.







Thanks!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> You need additional pylons.


Sheesh!








The top gpu is sagging enough to notice, eh?

Is the criticism a sign that my build is worth the effort to improve upon? It bothers me that the gpu blocks are copper. Seems like Aquacomputer was possibly having some issues with nickel plating, I noticed they aren't doing any nickel blocks for the 980s.

I have a couple Bitspower gpu brackets on the way, hopefully they will help, otherwise I'll do another acrylic pylon and just anchor it on the 295.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Sheesh!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top gpu is sagging enough to notice, eh?
> 
> Is the criticism a sign that my build is worth the effort to improve upon? It bothers me that the gpu blocks are copper. Seems like Aquacomputer was possibly having some issues with nickel plating, I noticed they aren't doing any nickel blocks for the 980s.
> 
> I have a couple Bitspower gpu brackets on the way, hopefully they will help, otherwise I'll do another acrylic pylon and just anchor it on the 295.


You could build a vapor chamber with 4 i7 processors and 8 GTX Titan-Zs @ -20c during full load and people would criticize it. Actually Technogiant did that once with butane and fewer processors once, but we'll leave that in a not here area. Whatever works for you, you're the one who has to live with it. I didn't notice any GPU sag, but if it's bothering you fix it.







The only thing I could think to note would be to make the cable sleeving a uniform colour, but that's just because my OCD senses are tingling. As to the nickle plating, you'd have to requisition Shoggy's two cents for that, he's the AC go to guy. He made a rather torturous GPU backplate experience a bit less... I'm going to go with aggravating for the sake of politeness, for me. That's a whole 'nother story though, he's the go to guy for AC waterblock questions. To digress, haters gunna hate. Build what works for you, and damn the rest.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Nice to see a purple build as we don't get them that often. That teal color wouldn't be hard to make as with the blue being to strong water it down before you use it. E.g 1 ml to 10ml of water then slowly add it and yes id mi it with Blue + and Mix of Blue and yellow (green). The alternative would be to use ocean blue as that is blue/green in color alone http://mayhems.co.uk/store/ocean-blue-15ml.html This is not as dark as blue.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telegirl81*
> 
> Aha, I didn't think of yellow - thank you! I had read online that with paints, teal is made from blue and green, so that's where I started - but I was surprised at how dominant the blue dye was! I will give yellow a shot too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, this is the color I'm hoping to get close to:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again!


The ocean blue will actually get close to that on its own. You could try a bit of yellow to bring out the green tones a bit more, but keep in mind that the yellow is probably one of the weaker dyes

This is someone's build using ocean blue, you can see that it has more of a green quality to it than standard blue


----------



## tarui04

hi all

I just received the mayhems blitz pro and I am seeking some clarifications

Q1 on part 1, it says mix 250ml of the solution with 750ml of water. Must it be distilled water or tap water (Tap water here is hard water)?

Q2 Part 2, it says leave in system for 24hrs (pump only). It means power on just the pump to get it circulate the *entire loop* for 24hrs right?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'd recommend using Distilled especially if your tap is hard water, and on part 2 that is power the pump only to allow the solution to circulate through the loop


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarui04*
> 
> hi all
> 
> I just received the mayhems blitz pro and I am seeking some clarifications
> 
> Q1 on part 1, it says mix 250ml of the solution with 750ml of water. Must it be distilled water or tap water (Tap water here is hard water)?


Tap water is ok, but if you have enough distilled/deionized that's what I used. Local tap waters vary so much in all the junk they have in them I didn't want to risk it messing with the acid being able to it's job. i did use tap water to flush the Part 1 out with the rad connected right to the sink using a faucet to garden-hose adapter and a 1/2" female garden hose end with a bit of 1/2" ID tube clamped to it and a barb fitting on the other end. The same setup came in handy flushing the Part 2 out of the loop. If you don't run tap water through the loop like that it may take several flushes to get all of the Part 2 out of the loop.
Quote:


> Q2 Part 2, it says leave in system for 24hrs (pump only). It means power on just the pump to get it circulate the *entire loop* for 24hrs right?


Yep. That's right.

You might want to watch Mayhem's tutorial videos first. That should clear up any questions you still may have.

Mayhems Blitz Pro and Basic usage. Video 1 of 2







Spoiler: Mayhems Blitz Pro and Basic usage. Video 2 of 2











lol, ninja'd by DarthBaggins


----------



## electro2u

Just tore down my purple loop to move it to another 760t case I've had waiting without the screw holes in it that were an eye sore and made the vinyl bubble. Not sure if I'll redo the carbon fiber or not. It looks nice if you can make it perfect but that case is impossible to make it perfect on.

On topic: There was still some moderate slime staining from before I did the blitz part 2 on some of my blocks, particularly the CPU block in the r4be mono block. However, after blitz 2 and running x1 coolant for a few days, I was able to make all the nickel shine like new by wiping with a cloth! Really pleased. I couldn't wipe it off before blitz p2.

Question: I've realized if I use a toothpick to insert some petroleum jelly in the oring slots I can make the wacky orings stick without getting the jelly anywhere else. I'm hoping that OK? The jelly looks awful if it gets anywhere else on the block obviously.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Petroleum jelly is not considered safe to use on o-rings, more or less so depending on what they are made of. Nitrile tends to be ok, and neoprene is so-so, but petroleum jelly will cripple EPDM, isoprene, or silicone o-rings in short order. You really should only be using silicone grease on o-rings.

edit:
Here's a source: http://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart-5

And for example: http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81091142&kind2=14
Quote:


> Bitspower O-Ring Set
> Model Name：BP-WTP-O50-BK
> Water-Cooling / O-Ring
> Features:
> 1. Compatible With Bitspower Fitting With G1/4" Thread - Old O-Ring Type.
> 2. Best Choice For O-Ring Periodicity Replacement.
> 3. RoHS Compliant.
> *Material : EPDM.*


----------



## electro2u

Interesting! I realize now it's off topic, but very good to know. Was using it on the EK orings that are all weird shapes... Thankfully they seem to all be NBR70 Nitrile


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarui04*
> 
> hi all
> 
> I just received the mayhems blitz pro and I am seeking some clarifications
> 
> Q1 on part 1, it says mix 250ml of the solution with 750ml of water. Must it be distilled water or tap water (Tap water here is hard water)?
> 
> Q2 Part 2, it says leave in system for 24hrs (pump only). It means power on just the pump to get it circulate the *entire loop* for 24hrs right?


Try to avoid tap water if at all possible, tap water has so many chemicals from the purification plant that may react with the acid. Part 2 runs through the entire system. If possible keep the system powered down during this time and just run the pump.

=Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Just tore down my purple loop to move it to another 760t case I've had waiting without the screw holes in it that were an eye sore and made the vinyl bubble. Not sure if I'll redo the carbon fiber or not. It looks nice if you can make it perfect but that case is impossible to make it perfect on.
> 
> On topic: There was still some moderate slime staining from before I did the blitz part 2 on some of my blocks, particularly the CPU block in the r4be mono block. However, after blitz 2 and running x1 coolant for a few days, I was able to make all the nickel shine like new by wiping with a cloth! Really pleased. I couldn't wipe it off before blitz p2.
> 
> Question: I've realized if I use a toothpick to insert some petroleum jelly in the oring slots I can make the wacky orings stick without getting the jelly anywhere else. I'm hoping that OK? The jelly looks awful if it gets anywhere else on the block obviously.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Interesting! I realize now it's off topic, but very good to know. Was using it on the EK orings that are all weird shapes... Thankfully they seem to all be NBR70 Nitrile


I'd switch to Lithium grease. Petrol products can't be good for the o-rings regardless of what they're made of.

-Z


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd switch to Lithium grease. Petrol products can't be good for the o-rings regardless of what they're made of.
> 
> -Z


All I know is the white lithium grease does wonders on my skate bearings


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Interesting! I realize now it's off topic, but very good to know. Was using it on the EK orings that are all weird shapes... Thankfully they seem to all be NBR70 Nitrile
> 
> 
> 
> I'd switch to Lithium grease. Petrol products can't be good for the o-rings regardless of what they're made of.
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

White lithium soap/grease is likewise damaging to several common types of o-rings incl nitrile and viton. Also since it's a 'salt' it's not really something you would probably want even trace amounts of in your loop.

Really the only thing anyone should be using on o-rings is silicone grease aka 'o-ring grease'. It's inexpensive, biologically inert (food-grade safe) and that's exactly what it is designed for. A tiny bit goes a long way. Unless you're building loops every day a ~$5 tub / tube should last forever.


----------



## telegirl81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> That teal color wouldn't be hard to make as with the blue being to strong water it down before you use it. E.g 1 ml to 10ml of water then slowly add it and yes id mi it with Blue + and Mix of Blue and yellow (green). The alternative would be to use ocean blue as that is blue/green in color alone http://mayhems.co.uk/store/ocean-blue-15ml.html This is not as dark as blue.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The ocean blue will actually get close to that on its own. You could try a bit of yellow to bring out the green tones a bit more, but keep in mind that the yellow is probably one of the weaker dyes
> 
> This is someone's build using ocean blue, you can see that it has more of a green quality to it than standard blue


That sounds promising - I'll give the Ocean Blue a try, and pick up some yellow for good measure.









Thank you so much, all!


----------



## Chibodee88

Just finished updating the wife's build with mayhems aurora II supernova with 5 drops of mayhems purple dye. looks great, computer sat offline for 3 days and the pearl effect settled in the tubes. running the d5 pump on 80% for about 10 seconds got everything mixed up again.

love your coolant guys! keep it up!


----------



## Mayhem

keep us informed how long it lasts in you system and can you post full specs . It will help future users and answer some questions.







... btw it looks very good in the system.


----------



## Chibodee88

Maximus formula vi, 4690k, 16gb 1866, MSI GTX 980, black ice gt 240xflow, EK d5 pump/res combo, bitspower cpu block, EK 980 block, primochill tubing and fittings 13mm, evga 750 psu

Oh and EK formula vi chipset and mosfet/reg replacement


----------



## tarui04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Tap water is ok, but if you have enough distilled/deionized that's what I used. Local tap waters vary so much in all the junk they have in them I didn't want to risk it messing with the acid being able to it's job. i did use tap water to flush the Part 1 out with the rad connected right to the sink using a faucet to garden-hose adapter and a 1/2" female garden hose end with a bit of 1/2" ID tube clamped to it and a barb fitting on the other end. The same setup came in handy flushing the Part 2 out of the loop. If you don't run tap water through the loop like that it may take several flushes to get all of the Part 2 out of the loop.
> Yep. That's right.
> 
> You might want to watch Mayhem's tutorial videos first. That should clear up any questions you still may have.
> 
> Mayhems Blitz Pro and Basic usage. Video 1 of 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Mayhems Blitz Pro and Basic usage. Video 2 of 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol, ninja'd by DarthBaggins


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Try to avoid tap water if at all possible, tap water has so many chemicals from the purification plant that may react with the acid. Part 2 runs through the entire system. If possible keep the system powered down during this time and just run the pump.
> 
> =Z
> 
> I'd switch to Lithium grease. Petrol products can't be good for the o-rings regardless of what they're made of.
> 
> -Z


thanks guys. wonderful wonderful help.

I initially had a few other questions regarding this but the video clarified most of them so i asked those questions to confirm .

thanks again.

I decided to get distilled water and use it to make up the part 1 solution instead. it's a little hard to get distilled water here. It's not like there's walmart or something to get gallons of cheap distilled water.


----------



## tarui04

Anyway the use of acids in the blitz pro and inclusion of gloves reminded me of this incident in a lab I used to work in.

This lab analyst/tech was too lazy to wear gloves before handling acid. She ended up having a minor acid burn on a wrist, a nice brown scar.

the "punishment" was equally hilarious. she was made to visit every department in the lab (there were several small departments, just a few people each, handling various aspects) and brief them on safe handling of acids and use of gloves before touching anything in the lab.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarui04*
> 
> Anyway the use of acids in the blitz pro and inclusion of gloves reminded me of this incident in a lab I used to work in.
> 
> This lab analyst/tech was too lazy to wear gloves before handling acid. She ended up having a minor acid burn on a wrist, a nice brown scar.
> 
> the "punishment" was equally hilarious. she was made to visit every department in the lab (there were several small departments, just a few people each, handling various aspects) and brief them on safe handling of acids and use of gloves before touching anything in the lab.


Several decades ago at school , i did always wonder why the deputy principal could barely talk , and was very difficult to understand , until i learned she used to be a science teacher when she was younger ,and was doing an experiment in class and dont ask me why , but was sucking on a straw to draw acid up a tube , well it moved a little quicker than she realized , and burned out the roof of her mouth , dont try this at home folks


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarui04*
> 
> Anyway the use of acids in the blitz pro and inclusion of gloves reminded me of this incident in a lab I used to work in.
> 
> This lab analyst/tech was too lazy to wear gloves before handling acid. She ended up having a minor acid burn on a wrist, a nice brown scar.
> 
> the "punishment" was equally hilarious. she was made to visit every department in the lab (there were several small departments, just a few people each, handling various aspects) and brief them on safe handling of acids and use of gloves before touching anything in the lab.


This one time at band camp...

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Several decades ago at school , i did always wonder why the deputy principal could barely talk , and was very difficult to understand , until i learned she used to be a science teacher when she was younger ,and was doing an experiment in class and dont ask me why , but was sucking on a straw to draw acid up a tube , well it moved a little quicker than she realized , and burned out the roof of her mouth , dont try this at home folks


A buddy of mine once lit a rod of magnesium on fire while camping. Needless to say he got the campfire going.

-Z


----------



## OmegaNemesis28

I've been out of the water cooling "loop" for some time. I've literally been running the same loop with the same liquid for 4-5 years nonstop. I'm now upgrading components and I'm looking to really invigorate the color of the liquid.

I'm a Tygon clear tube guy and Ive been using Pentosin G11, PT Nuke, PT UV, and distilled water. I eyeballed everything. When too much evaporation happens, I throw in some more distilled water and add more Pentosin G11, maybe another drop of UV and Nuke here and there over the years.

But my tubes are looking pretty cloudy now and the blue never really popped for me. I can never get it to last decently. It looks kinda good in the resevoir but not in the tubes. The best I've gotten it is in my Nemesis Revival build in my sig.

I'm now looking at mayhem this morning and it looks great! But I'm undecided about what I would like. I'm a fan of the clear blue, but I would like to make it UV, except Im using regular tubing and not acrylic. Trying to figure out the OP and it seems like it indicates it would stain and get cloudy with the Tygon I use. Any suggestions?

EDIT: This is the blue I'm after I think.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FuytJkiZSuo

But my issues with these videos is that they dont link to what they used. >.> He also comments that he had to get rid of it due to ph levels or something?

I would love the blue pastel, however, I have a T-Virus Resevoir I quite like to look at ha.

EDIT2:

I finally found something a little more explicit.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1266496/better-fluid-feser-one-uv-blue-or-fluid-xp-ext-uv-blue/10
Quote:


> o distilled water + Mayhem UV Clear/Blue Dye + silver coil is good in your eyes?


So I can't use something like PT Nuke with the UV clear Blue and have to go silver coil?

EDIT3:
So, perfect example of my confusion at this point:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17677/ex-liq-269/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Clear_UV_Blue_.html

The video on the page shows immediately the kind of blue I would like to achieve and have UV. But its not what is being sold on FrozenCPU. Do I need to buy both Mayhem Blue Dye AND Mayhem UV Clear/Blue to get the desired blue UV water I'm looking for? This is a nice blue, but it doesnt appear to be UV either. And the description says they come in UV or non UV, but I see no UV Blue

That, and the Tygon tubing question.


----------



## ilovehamwallets

well i finally got round to installing my new havoc 480 rad into my system. must say had a fun time doing it and gave my system a good clean out while i was at it.
and thanks must go to a freind who loaned me his premisies so i could do this.







































ps. ignore the wiring as this is a on going project and im always fannying about with it lol


----------



## emsj86

keep the blue or switchc to white pastel which I have on hand. Problem is making sure all the blue is out to not have it have a tint after a few hours or days. Any tricks on switching from blue to white pastel?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

@OmegaNemesis28

The first blue in that vid is not UV. But if you like that color but also want UV you could use that dye or one of Mayhem's blue coolants in Primochill UV Blue acrylic or PETG tubing which is clear tubing with just a slight blue tint until exposed to UV light. That should get you the look you want and have a longer lasting UV effect than you would get with a dye.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20516/ex-tub-1856/PrimoChilll_12_OD_Rigid_Acrylic_Tube_-_4x_24_Pack_-_UV_Blue.html


----------



## Soxism

@Mayhem, Ive been reading about the Blitz Pro Kit, and bought myself some recently after realizing how bad Alphacool rads are (Its like they dont even have a wash/clean rads after manufacture)..

I have some curious question if anyone can help.


*Part 2, should it be used within a z timeframe after Part 1?* for example, no more than a day after doing part 1.

I did do an epic flush after using part 1, but as my build will take a while i just want to clarify if it needs to be used sooner than later?

*When, do we needto use the PH meter??*
Should we be checking the water going in, or out before part 1/2 ...i feel the instructions need a little more clarify here. Its done a great job of explaining the setup process etc. I just dont want it to be a particular step that i maybe overlooking.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmegaNemesis28*
> 
> I've been out of the water cooling "loop" for some time. *I've literally been running the same loop with the same liquid for 4-5 years nonstop*. I'm now upgrading components and I'm looking to really invigorate the color of the liquid.
> 
> I'm a Tygon clear tube guy and Ive been using Pentosin G11, PT Nuke, PT UV, and distilled water. I eyeballed everything. When too much evaporation happens, I throw in some more distilled water and add more Pentosin G11, maybe another drop of UV and Nuke here and there over the years.
> 
> But my tubes are looking pretty cloudy now and the blue never really popped for me. I can never get it to last decently. It looks kinda good in the resevoir but not in the tubes. The best I've gotten it is in my Nemesis Revival build in my sig.
> 
> I'm now looking at mayhem this morning and it looks great! But I'm undecided about what I would like. I'm a fan of the clear blue, but I would like to make it UV, except Im using regular tubing and not acrylic. Trying to figure out the OP and it seems like it indicates it would stain and get cloudy with the Tygon I use. Any suggestions?
> 
> EDIT: This is the blue I'm after I think.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FuytJkiZSuo
> 
> But my issues with these videos is that they dont link to what they used. >.> He also comments that he had to get rid of it due to ph levels or something?
> 
> I would love the blue pastel, however, I have a T-Virus Resevoir I quite like to look at ha.
> 
> EDIT2:
> 
> I finally found something a little more explicit.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1266496/better-fluid-feser-one-uv-blue-or-fluid-xp-ext-uv-blue/10
> So I can't use something like PT Nuke with the UV clear Blue and have to go silver coil?
> 
> EDIT3:
> So, perfect example of my confusion at this point:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17677/ex-liq-269/Mayhems_Dye_-_15mL_-_Clear_UV_Blue_.html
> 
> The video on the page shows immediately the kind of blue I would like to achieve and have UV. But its not what is being sold on FrozenCPU. Do I need to buy both Mayhem Blue Dye AND Mayhem UV Clear/Blue to get the desired blue UV water I'm looking for? This is a nice blue, but it doesnt appear to be UV either. And the description says they come in UV or non UV, but I see no UV Blue
> 
> That, and the Tygon tubing question.


the newer tygon has typically been fine. the primochill advanced is the most recommended, however.

There are a ton of possibilities to get to the color you want.

*Decide on which fluid you really want to go with*.
Based on your statement, it looks like you want a fluid with longevity, which would be the pastel line. Pastel will last 2-3 years in a loop with little to no maintenance (recommended drain, filter, refill 1x per year). You could also go X1, which has about a 1 year in loop life with no interim maintenance required. XT-1 is EG based and is another option. All 3 have all corrosion and biocide already in the fluid, so you do not need kill coil, additional biocides, etc. You then could do just water, dye, and your own additives which it's recommended to replace the fluid every couple months.

*Find the color*
With X1 and XT-1, there is a UV Blue that is ready to go. If this color suites you, then you are good to go with either of these. If you want something different, then I'd use the clear version of the fluid and then some of the blue dyes to achieve the color you want. This would apply to the plain water version as well. For pastel, you can start with either the ice white or blue berry blue and add dye to get the color blue you want. If you like the blue berry blue as-is, then you of course do not need more dye. Also, there is a UV white, which is the white fluid that will have a blue UV effect, if you'd be into that.

*Add and/or Maintain the UV*
For the UV effect, regardless of which you go with, you most certainly will want a bottle of the UV Clear Blue on hand. UV effects will degrade over time, so you can bring it back to life by adding back in a couple drops of the UV Clear/Blue dye. I like this one because you can add the UV effect without altering the color of the fluid and it doesn't stain like most UV dyes are notorious for doing


----------



## OmegaNemesis28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> the newer tygon has typically been fine. the primochill advanced is the most recommended, however.
> 
> There are a ton of possibilities to get to the color you want.
> 
> *Decide on which fluid you really want to go with*.
> Based on your statement, it looks like you want a fluid with longevity, which would be the pastel line. Pastel will last 2-3 years in a loop with little to no maintenance (recommended drain, filter, refill 1x per year). You could also go X1, which has about a 1 year in loop life with no interim maintenance required. XT-1 is EG based and is another option. All 3 have all corrosion and biocide already in the fluid, so you do not need kill coil, additional biocides, etc. You then could do just water, dye, and your own additives which it's recommended to replace the fluid every couple months.
> 
> *Find the color*
> With X1 and XT-1, there is a UV Blue that is ready to go. If this color suites you, then you are good to go with either of these. If you want something different, then I'd use the clear version of the fluid and then some of the blue dyes to achieve the color you want. This would apply to the plain water version as well. For pastel, you can start with either the ice white or blue berry blue and add dye to get the color blue you want. If you like the blue berry blue as-is, then you of course do not need more dye. Also, there is a UV white, which is the white fluid that will have a blue UV effect, if you'd be into that.
> 
> *Add and/or Maintain the UV*
> For the UV effect, regardless of which you go with, you most certainly will want a bottle of the UV Clear Blue on hand. UV effects will degrade over time, so you can bring it back to life by adding back in a couple drops of the UV Clear/Blue dye. I like this one because you can add the UV effect without altering the color of the fluid and it doesn't stain like most UV dyes are notorious for doing


Ah okay so you can add the UV Clear/Blue to the X1 to revive the UV effect. I wasn't certain on that being okay!
When I looked on FrozenCPU, I must've looked right past Mayhems X1 UV Blue concentrate like a dope. I didnt think it existed.
I'm going to probably go ahead and do that then. Get the X1 UV Blue mix & a bottle of the UV Clear/Blue for backup. I see on the front page it says it will never stain which is great! I was just so confused on what goes with what for the blue haha
Much appreciated.

Now I'm torn between the premix and concentrate. I hate shipping charges! Blarg


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'd go premix, less headaches

Also is there a mix ratio with the dyes and pastels to get gigabyte orange or does the straight orange match up? Still torn between mint or orange


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmegaNemesis28*
> 
> Ah okay so you can add the UV Clear/Blue to the X1 to revive the UV effect. I wasn't certain on that being okay!
> When I looked on FrozenCPU, I must've looked right past Mayhems X1 UV Blue concentrate like a dope. I didnt think it existed.
> I'm going to probably go ahead and do that then. Get the X1 UV Blue mix & a bottle of the UV Clear/Blue for backup. I see on the front page it says it will never stain which is great! I was just so confused on what goes with what for the blue haha
> Much appreciated.
> 
> Now I'm torn between the premix and concentrate. I hate shipping charges! Blarg


I believe the concentrates were made specifically to save on shipping costs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I'd go premix, less headaches
> 
> Also is there a mix ratio with the dyes and pastels to get gigabyte orange or does the straight orange match up? Still torn between mint or orange


The orange is pretty darn close to the gigabyte boards.


----------



## cyphon

Some pictures from my Pastel + Aurora Booster experiment


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Some pictures from my Pastel + Aurora Booster experiment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I want to drink it.









-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I want to drink it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


Do not advise...

It does look pretty delicious tho


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Now you say something. Where were you 15 min ago?


----------



## Mayhem

Happy new year to every one from mayhems


----------



## Chibodee88

Happy new year mayhem!


----------



## eliteone

Pardon my slight panic here, but I've completed blitz pro part one and two as per the directions in the box and filled with fresh mayhems red pastel. I've used pastel almost exclusively for 2 years, and I have never seen anything like this.....










Could one of you smart fellas enlighten me?
Oh, and as soon as I start my system it seems to disappear, and it shows up after as little of two hours off time.

Thanks in advance


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eliteone*
> 
> Pardon my slight panic here, but I've completed blitz pro part one and two as per the directions in the box and filled with fresh mayhems red pastel. I've used pastel almost exclusively for 2 years, and I have never seen anything like this.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could one of you smart fellas enlighten me?
> Oh, and as soon as I start my system it seems to disappear, and it shows up after as little of two hours off time.
> 
> Thanks in advance


Looks like the Pastel is separating. If you didn't flush sufficiently with distilled after part 2 the surfactant from it may be causing this. I wouldn't worry about it from a performance/safety stand point, and if it looks fine when turned on it really isn't an issue with aesthetics. It's normal for pastel to settle @ the bottom of the reservoir when the system is off, residual part 2 may be causing it to separate like that.

-Z


----------



## eliteone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eliteone*
> 
> Pardon my slight panic here, but I've completed blitz pro part one and two as per the directions in the box and filled with fresh mayhems red pastel. I've used pastel almost exclusively for 2 years, and I have never seen anything like this.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could one of you smart fellas enlighten me?
> Oh, and as soon as I start my system it seems to disappear, and it shows up after as little of two hours off time.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the Pastel is separating. If you didn't flush sufficiently with distilled after part 2 the surfactant from it may be causing this. I wouldn't worry about it from a performance/safety stand point, and if it looks fine when turned on it really isn't an issue with aesthetics. It's normal for pastel to settle @ the bottom of the reservoir when the system is off, residual part 2 may be causing it to separate like that.
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input, I'd heard of pastel separating for sure just never seen it. I flushed the system twice for an hour a piece with di, would you not think that's enough?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Looks like the Pastel is separating. If you didn't flush sufficiently with distilled after part 2 the surfactant from it may be causing this. I wouldn't worry about it from a performance/safety stand point, and if it looks fine when turned on it really isn't an issue with aesthetics. It's normal for pastel to settle @ the bottom of the reservoir when the system is off, residual part 2 may be causing it to separate like that.
> 
> -Z


This would be my guess as well.

As z said, Pastel will settle out when there is no flow, however, it does usually take longer than what you are experiencing. This typically is nothing to worry about and things will go back to normal when you get the flow going again, as the nanoparticles will go back into suspension.

If he doesn't see the post in some time, you can always send mayhem a message and he'll help you get it sorted. He's usually pretty on top of the forums, but he did mention they had some down time for new years and may miss it


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eliteone*
> 
> Thanks for the input, I'd heard of pastel separating for sure just never seen it. I flushed the system twice for an hour a piece with di, would you not think that's enough?


Dunno, some people have had a LOT of issue with flushing part 2 out, some people have no issue. Hard to say for sure with different concentrations in different countries. As long as the particles shoot back into suspension when turned on I wouldn't worry.

-Z


----------



## eliteone

That was pretty much what I thought, like I said I wasn't too panicked









However is it possible if I indeed didn't get part 2 fully flushed it would damage/cloud petg and acrylic? I went for broke and drained my loop, and my tubing/acrylic blocks seem"clouded" or would that just be left over separated pastel? I've run 8 litres of di through the damn thing with no luck...... I'm going to try di for 24 hours in hope of some luck


----------



## Mayhem

You really need to flush part two and part one correctly out the system. Both product are very strong and can distoy fluids in there own rights. Send me you full name, address, tel, with receipts of the pastel you bought and we will replace it all, these things happen.

Pastel is sensitive to chemicals in a system. If you have you PH meter at hand (with the pro kit) this is when you should test the fluid and see what PH it is.


----------



## Chibodee88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You really need to flush part two and part one correctly out the system. Both product are very strong and can distoy fluids in there own rights. Send me you full name, address, tel, with receipts of the pastel you bought and we will replace it all, these things happen.
> 
> Pastel is sensitive to chemicals in a system. If you have you PH meter at hand (with the pro kit) this is when you should test the fluid and see what PH it is.


And this is why I love Mayhem. Best customer service around. Keep it up Mayhem, you've got a customer for life here.


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chibodee88*
> 
> And this is why I love Mayhem. Best customer service around. Keep it up Mayhem, you've got a customer for life here.


+1. Sent me extra Part 1 so i could get all 4 UT60s cleaned properly.


----------



## eliteone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You really need to flush part two and part one correctly out the system. Both product are very strong and can distoy fluids in there own rights. Send me you full name, address, tel, with receipts of the pastel you bought and we will replace it all, these things happen.
> 
> Pastel is sensitive to chemicals in a system. If you have you PH meter at hand (with the pro kit) this is when you should test the fluid and see what PH it is.


Wow! Best customer service in the industry indeed ! Thanks a bunch, I always knew there was a reason I only use mayhems coolant.... Besides the awesome product that is !
I'll forward that off to you a litre later today. I think where I goofed is not calibrating the ph meter properly...... Derp


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You really need to flush part two and part one correctly out the system. Both product are very strong and can distoy fluids in there own rights. Send me you full name, address, tel, with receipts of the pastel you bought and we will replace it all, these things happen.
> 
> Pastel is sensitive to chemicals in a system. If you have you PH meter at hand (with the pro kit) this is when you should test the fluid and see what PH it is.


With customer service like this, I'll be buying from you guys exclusively from now on, I'm on the market for some UV stuff for my little build for the gf.


----------



## tarui04

I've flushed the part 1 like stated in the manual (rads only) and part 2 has been flushed with more than a US gallon of distilled water. I even took pains to rinse any funnels, bottles I used with distilled water before filling up the loop.

My loop has multiple QDCs so I used it to almost completely drain the loop but the tubing starts to look a little translucent.




the vertical tubing is a short section of my waste/leftover tubing that has not gone through any treatment whatsoever. and filled with distilled water

horizontal tubings are the ones that gone thru part 2.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarui04*
> 
> I've flushed the part 1 like stated in the manual (rads only) and part 2 has been flushed with more than a US gallon of distilled water. I even took pains to rinse any funnels, bottles I used with distilled water before filling up the loop.
> 
> My loop has multiple QDCs so I used it to almost completely drain the loop but the tubing starts to look a little translucent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the vertical tubing is a short section of my waste/leftover tubing that has not gone through any treatment whatsoever. and filled with distilled water
> 
> horizontal tubings are the ones that gone thru part 2.


Looks like some part 2 is still in there


----------



## electro2u

I used about 3 gallons of distilled water to flush my system after part 2. Wasn't quite enough. I filled and ran with UV Purple for about a week, then did a tear down for retooling and case change (I'm fidgety). While draining the UV Purple I noticed a little bit of part 2 big bubbles forming in my last tubing run before the drain. Probably made no difference but it was evidence that there was still some "foam" If you could call it that. Was literally like 2 large bubbles. My point is, 1 gallon probably isn't enough.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

It's best to connect your loop to your tap water to do the flushing of Blitz Part 2 like shown by Mayhems in their Blitz Kit instructional video. (_*Caveat!*: Go easy on the flow from a tap. Water mains wide open can supply too much flow / pressure for a loop_)

You can do this easily either by attaching it just to a garden hose from an outside spigot or with an adapter to attach it to a faucet (assuming you have a faucet with a screw-on aerator - many these days don't). I prefer to be able to attach it to a faucet inside so I can run hot water through the loop or a rad.

Here's a few of the parts involved (at least in the US. Not sure whether it is applicable to whatever garden hose & faucet threads used in other countries). There's two different female garden hose thread (GHT) to 1/2" barb adapters shown, a brass and a plastic one (you only need one), a nickel G1/4 1/2" barb fitting on the other end of one of the 1/2" ID tubes for connecting to a loop, and there's a faucet to garden hose adapter to attach it to a sink faucet.



If you have a faucet with a threaded aerator but are unsure what size the threads are or what adapter you need, I found this guide helpful.


Spoiler: Faucet thread guide







Running tap water through your loop will get all the Blitz out of it. Just remember to do a flush with some distilled or deionized water afterward to rinse the chlorinated tap water out.


----------



## Mayhem

Unless the PC is on our desk or we have a sample of the fluids afer use and batch number (for our base tests) its very difficult to dignose the issue over the net and what's caused it. It is normally quicker and cheaper for both parties for us to resupply the products first and see how it goes from there. 99.9% this works fine . How ever some times it doest and this is were we would need samples, full part lists and more info. Some times it means us buying the same hardware and finding an answer. E.g this how we found out about alpha cool rads and there issues which we released the cleaning kit for.


----------



## ozzy1925

if we cant filter part1 with coffe filter what method should we do to reuse it?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> if we cant filter part1 with coffe filter what method should we do to reuse it?


Just put it in a sealed container (best to label it what it is and keep it away from children etc). It's an acid that will need flushed out afterward anyway so no need to try to filter it. Note that it'll be a little weaker each time, so might want to leave it in just a little longer, but I think Mick said you should be able to get a few repeat uses out of it that way.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Just put it in a sealed container (best to label it what it is and keep it away from children etc). It's an acid that will need flushed out afterward anyway so no need to try to filter it. Note that it'll be a little weaker each time, so might want to leave it in just a little longer, but I think Mick said you should be able to get a few repeat uses out of it that way.


ok but dont we need to filter part 1 before each use because of the remaning particles like flux etc. or do they vaporize ?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> ok but dont we need to filter part 1 before each use because of the remaning particles like flux etc. or do they vaporize ?


They don't 'vaporize' though I'm sure the acid eats some of it up, but why worry about particles? There will no doubt be debris from previous Part 1 uses present for subsequent ones, but why would that matter? The acid's still there doing it's job and you have to flush it all out afterward anyway. There's just no need to filter it between uses. I suspect a paper filter and the acid wouldn't be such a good combination anyway.

Edit:

You needn't take my word for it on any of this. Mick has already said as much as what I've been saying in this thread. Actually just noticed it was you that asked about filtering Part 1 and got a reply from Mick almost a month ago saying it's not necessary, so I'm not really sure why you're still wondering about it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You can all ways use part 1 more than once.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh the acid will grow weaker as it is spent but it will clean more than one rad. We have reused it several times when cleaning. It will become less effective with more use so you may need to keep it in longer than stated time second time around..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks but as i read from the instructions part 1 consists acid can it be filtrered by coffee filter?
> 
> 
> 
> *I wouldn't filter part 1 no as said it is an acid and the less you mess with it the better, Simply empty it out from a rad into a bottle and reuse and once finished get rid of down the drain.*
Click to expand...


----------



## RpeeKooz

ive just checked my ph level in my pastel red ive been running for a few months.its about 4.i used part 2 for my new phobya rads...ive notice it turned pinkish...is there anyway to get it back to the right ph level and back to its bright red colour ???
add dye drain and refill??
cheers


----------



## z0ki

I bought some EK Mayhems pastel, I got all EK blocks, if I was so flush my loop (instead of striping it down) would DI and vinegar be ok to use for a few hours then flush twice again with normal DI? The vinegar won't harm the blocks in anyway will it?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> I bought some EK Mayhems pastel, I got all EK blocks, if I was so flush my loop (instead of striping it down) would DI and vinegar be ok to use for a few hours then flush twice again with normal DI? The vinegar won't harm the blocks in anyway will it?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


Vinegar is pretty rough, I'd recommend lemon juice instead if you were going down this path.

Also, if you do an acid solution (vinegar or lemon juice) then you will want to do a base solution (typically bicarb a.k.a baking soda) afterwards and flush with DI water to get the pH back to normal.

In regards to harming the blocks, if you have the nickel flavor, then the plating can be stripped by the acid if it is too concentrated or left in too long. If you have copper it is probably fine. Keep in mind, if you have blocks (or anything copper for that matter) that you have been using, that a protective layer called the patina forms and the acid will eat through that as well.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> With customer service like this, I'll be buying from you guys exclusively from now on, I'm on the market for some UV stuff for my little build for the gf.


Just fair warning, UV liquids are a LOT more sensitive to pH and contaminants. If you have a Alphacool, Phobya, etc. radiator then I'd blitz it properly to avoid the UV effects dying.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarui04*
> 
> I've flushed the part 1 like stated in the manual (rads only) and part 2 has been flushed with more than a US gallon of distilled water. I even took pains to rinse any funnels, bottles I used with distilled water before filling up the loop.
> 
> My loop has multiple QDCs so I used it to almost completely drain the loop but the tubing starts to look a little translucent.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the vertical tubing is a short section of my waste/leftover tubing that has not gone through any treatment whatsoever. and filled with distilled water
> 
> horizontal tubings are the ones that gone thru part 2.


It's hard to tell what's going on from the pics, but to me it looks like a couple of possible causes but I can't say until I know a couple things.
What tubing are you using?
What did you use to drain the loop? (QDCs, valve, etc.)
Was the tubing cloudy like that while the loop was filled?

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> if we cant filter part1 with coffe filter what method should we do to reuse it?


Part 1 is an acid. Coffee filters are mostly carbon. Unless you want a black coffee filter and fugy/spent Part 1 I wouldn't recommend. It doesn't matter if part 1 has some contaminants in it, it's job is to strip flux from the solder joints, and strip contaminants that have scaled onto the interior of the rad. It's job isn't necessarily to physically remove them from the inside of the radiator, it's just to keep them from being stuck to the inside. Part 2's job is to physically remove these particles, among other things. So if a couple residual particles from your last flush of part 1 are left in the new rad then it really isn't an issue. They won't redeposit themselves or anything like that.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z0ki*
> 
> I bought some EK Mayhems pastel, I got all EK blocks, if I was so flush my loop (instead of striping it down) would DI and vinegar be ok to use for a few hours then flush twice again with normal DI? The vinegar won't harm the blocks in anyway will it?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


I'd use the Blitz cleaning system on it. Those homebrew kits are what everyone used to use before Blitz was here, but they were largely hit and miss. Also wouldn't run those homebrew acids through any plated products.

-Z


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eliteone*
> 
> Thanks for the input, I'd heard of pastel separating for sure just never seen it. I flushed the system twice for an hour a piece with di, would you not think that's enough?


I had to do it 4 times and even then I think there's was a tad remaining, I don't think 2 times was enough.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Just fair warning, UV liquids are a LOT more sensitive to pH and contaminants. If you have a Alphacool, Phobya, etc. radiator then I'd blitz it properly to avoid the UV effects dying.
> 
> -Z


Thanks for the heads up but my gf has asked me to look into Aurora coolant as she likes the effect but on the website it says not for home use as it's purely a photography/mod showcase coolant, so I assume I'm correct in saying it can't be run 24/7 long term.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up but my gf has asked me to look into Aurora coolant as she likes the effect but on the website it says not for home use as it's purely a photography/mod showcase coolant, so I assume I'm correct in saying it can't be run 24/7 long term.


.

It can be used long term. The "Only for show systems, not for home use" is essentially a disclaimer. The coolant itself is good for about a year before it starts to break down. The issue is it's a nano fluid, meaning there's a ton of little particles in suspension within the coolant. Those nanoparticles are what gives it it's pearlecent effect. These particles can get stuck in any nook and cranny in the loop. So if you want to use Aurora there are some pretty simple guidelines to keep it in suspension.

The biggest issue is radiators.



See how the lanes protrude into the chambers? The aurora particles get caught in those protrusions. See how there's two sets of rows? Each row increases areas the aurora can get caught and decreases coolant velocity. The higher the coolant velocity the less likely the particles are to get stuck. So when you increase radiator row count you basically turn all the factors towards the particles getting stuck. You want to stick to single row radiators. Examples are HW Labs GTS (Nemesis or classic), Alphacool ST30, etc. These are your best bet to keep aruroa in suspension.

The second most important thing is to keep the loop small. Don't go throwing 3 waterblocks and 5 radiators into the loop and expect it to keep the effect.

The third thing is to remove injection plates from the waterblocks. Injection plates have a lot of spots for the particles to get caught, and add a LOT of restriction to the loop. This WILL increase your core temps by a few degrees, kelvin (celsius) of course. Aurora is NOT a performance oriented coolant.

Follow these guidelines and aurora should last around a year.

-Z


----------



## NE0XY

Blitz pro part 2 creates a ton of foam lol =P

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YIyGiOrN7Q&list=UUUBjWVHbxtKTc0MdAH9z4eQ


----------



## crappy

Got my Mayhems Pastel Red in







DOn't yet have any properly decent 'in action' shots as i'm not getting as much light from my LED fans through the roof rad as i thought i would. Going to swap them into push at some point and mount the gpu in the vertical PCI slot to show off the block properly.
https://flic.kr/p/q7G8Gz
https://flic.kr/p/q8pA4G


----------



## tarui04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> -Z
> It's hard to tell what's going on from the pics, but to me it looks like a couple of possible causes but I can't say until I know a couple things.
> What tubing are you using?
> What did you use to drain the loop? (QDCs, valve, etc.)
> Was the tubing cloudy like that while the loop was filled?
> 
> -Z


I am using PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing. this is supposedly the tubing that does not have the plasticiser or something.

I have a drain valve at the bottom but for draining the front rad I remove the rad completely and drain it manually. usually at this point there is a small amount of water in the tubing, like 30-40ml and 10-20ml in the bay res.

while filling from empty, I measured and realised I needed roughly 1 litre of water to fill the loop. As of this moment, I've used 11 litres of distilled water to flush the loop and I used the included pH meter to measure the pH of pure distilled water and the drained water and the pH is the same. The colour looks the same as well. I also filled a small section of tubing that has not gone through the part 2 treatment with water that was drained from the loop and it looks exactly like the pic I posted.
When the loop is empty, the tubings remained semi-translucent as per the pic.

To put it simply, I've flushed the loop 11 times over, well over what is stated in the manual and there's unused tubing that remains clear, even with the drained water. it's very obvious that any part 2 has been flushed and something from the cleaning system has stained/clouded the tubings.

Full parts list.

Koolance QD3 Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling 13 x 19mm (1/2 x 3/4in)
Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings, 1/2" x 3/4" Six Pack - Chrome
Enzotech Rotary Fitting G 1/4 Thread - Male to Male
Swiftech mcr320 QP-res
XSPC G1/4" 10mm Male to Female Fitting - Chrome Finish
Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm
XSPC G1/4″ 90° Rotary Fitting - Chrome Finish
Aquacomputer Kryographics Hawaii for Radeon R9 290X and 290 Acrylic Glass
XSPC D5 bay res V2
EK supreme HK cpu waterblock.
EK mosfet nickel plated waterblock


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Blitz pro part 2 creates a ton of foam lol =P
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YIyGiOrN7Q&list=UUUBjWVHbxtKTc0MdAH9z4eQ


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*


hahahahaha, yes


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarui04*
> 
> I am using PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing. this is supposedly the tubing that does not have the plasticiser or something.
> 
> I have a drain valve at the bottom but for draining the front rad I remove the rad completely and drain it manually. usually at this point there is a small amount of water in the tubing, like 30-40ml and 10-20ml in the bay res.
> 
> while filling from empty, I measured and realised I needed roughly 1 litre of water to fill the loop. As of this moment, I've used 11 litres of distilled water to flush the loop and I used the included pH meter to measure the pH of pure distilled water and the drained water and the pH is the same. The colour looks the same as well. I also filled a small section of tubing that has not gone through the part 2 treatment with water that was drained from the loop and it looks exactly like the pic I posted.
> When the loop is empty, the tubings remained semi-translucent as per the pic.
> 
> To put it simply, I've flushed the loop 11 times over, well over what is stated in the manual and there's unused tubing that remains clear, even with the drained water. it's very obvious that any part 2 has been flushed and something from the cleaning system has stained/clouded the tubings.
> 
> Full parts list.
> 
> Koolance QD3 Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling 13 x 19mm (1/2 x 3/4in)
> Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings, 1/2" x 3/4" Six Pack - Chrome
> Enzotech Rotary Fitting G 1/4 Thread - Male to Male
> Swiftech mcr320 QP-res
> XSPC G1/4" 10mm Male to Female Fitting - Chrome Finish
> Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm
> XSPC G1/4″ 90° Rotary Fitting - Chrome Finish
> Aquacomputer Kryographics Hawaii for Radeon R9 290X and 290 Acrylic Glass
> XSPC D5 bay res V2
> EK supreme HK cpu waterblock.
> EK mosfet nickel plated waterblock


That's... erm... very thorough. Wish I could give more advice, but my only two thoughts were either plasticizers which obviously isn't the issue since you're using DEHP free tubing, or atomized water making the tubing appear hazed. (a.k.a. steam) I've actually disassembled a reservoir to scrub it clean before realizing the haze I was seeing was just steam. XD. Probably the biggest derp moment in all my watercooling. Sorry, wish I could help more but at this point my only thought is maybe the tubing absorbed some of the surfactant causing it to haze like that. Given the short duration part 2 is used for I doubt that's the case.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*


So much win, this needs to be put on the Blitz box. XD

-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*


Oh man did I lol. This is worth a +rep


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Blitz pro part 2 creates a ton of foam lol =P
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YIyGiOrN7Q&list=UUUBjWVHbxtKTc0MdAH9z4eQ
Click to expand...

So much Win


----------



## XanderTheGoober

So guys. May come off as a stupid question but... I am using XSPC raystorm block and a dual 120mm XSPC rad with primochill advance LRT tubing with all XSPC fittings. Ordering 2 more rads and have an EK wateblock. all parts are brand new. with all parts being brand new and the parts currently in use only being used a few months. is it really necessary to use blitz pro part 2 on the entire loop once assembled or should a 12 hour flush of distilled water be enough?

EDIT: currently using Koolance clear coolant but am ordering X1 clear concentrate for the up coming addition.

edit 2: ordered the cleaning kit anyway. figured i have spent over $600 in watercooling parts already i might as well spend another $30 to protect the investment


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> So guys. May come off as a stupid question but... I am using XSPC raystorm block and a dual 120mm XSPC rad with primochill advance LRT tubing with all XSPC fittings. Ordering 2 more rads and have an EK wateblock. all parts are brand new. with all parts being brand new and the parts currently in use only being used a few months. is it really necessary to use blitz pro part 2 on the entire loop once assembled or should a 12 hour flush of distilled water be enough?
> 
> EDIT: currently using Koolance clear coolant but am ordering X1 clear concentrate for the up coming addition.
> 
> edit 2: ordered the cleaning kit anyway. figured i have spent over $600 in watercooling parts already i might as well spend another $30 to protect the investment


So the primary purpose of Blitz is to strip flux and contaminants from the radiators, then neutralize the pH in the loop. Part 1 strips the flux within the solder joints and removes any contaminants that have scaled onto the radiator. Part 2 removes neutralizes the pH and removes any loose particles from the loop. Without using part 1 on your radiators first, using part 2 is essentially using fancy dish soap on the loop. You really don't need to do that on new parts. Blitz was mainly developed to clean out flux, a material used in making radiators than may react adversely with some coolants. X1 is not one of those coolants. You should be fine to run without blitzing it. If you do want to go the extra mile, use the blitz pro kit so you're actually removing the flux from the radiator.

-Z


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> So the primary purpose of Blitz is to strip flux and contaminants from the radiators, then neutralize the pH in the loop. Part 1 strips the flux within the solder joints and removes any contaminants that have scaled onto the radiator. Part 2 removes neutralizes the pH and removes any loose particles from the loop. Without using part 1 on your radiators first, using part 2 is essentially using fancy dish soap on the loop. You really don't need to do that on new parts. Blitz was mainly developed to clean out flux, a material used in making radiators than may react adversely with some coolants. X1 is not one of those coolants. You should be fine to run without blitzing it. If you do want to go the extra mile, use the blitz pro kit so you're actually removing the flux from the radiator.
> 
> -Z


Thanks for the explanation. but it is already with the rest of the order. but wouldn't it be wise to use on the new rads anyway? i have heard alphacool rads blitzing is a must but not sure about xspc.


----------



## fleetfeather

Pretty sure the Blitz kit cannot be bought anywhere in Australia, right?


----------



## RpeeKooz

ple computers has the step 2 only


----------



## fleetfeather

50 AUD for the basic kit? sighhhhhhh


----------



## Soxism

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Pretty sure the Blitz kit cannot be bought anywhere in Australia, right?


Nop. PC case gear maybe due to the volume of alphacool rads they have. But in the mean time i just ordered from Performace-PC's. was about $30 shipping to WA.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soxism*
> 
> Nop. PC case gear maybe due to the volume of alphacool rads they have. But in the mean time i just ordered from Performace-PC's. was about $30 shipping to WA.


already checked PCCG and Koolroom, who were the only places i knew that had mayhems stock. (although, as ive just been told above, PLE also has some limited stock)

I'm pretty uninterested in making a PPC's or FCPU order due to the strong US Dollar atm, so I may just have to work with Mayhems X1 coolant since it apparently works a bit better with a flux-filled Alphacool Monsta rad**

**some confirmation of this would be great. my loop involves a supreme HF block, heatkiller 670 block, and a 120mm monsta


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Thanks for the explanation. but it is already with the rest of the order. but wouldn't it be wise to use on the new rads anyway? i have heard alphacool rads blitzing is a must but not sure about xspc.


Xspc is one of the cleanest rads out of box. They do well to get the gunk out in manufacturing. Blitzing wouldn't hurt, but doing some good flushing with hot water will probably be good enough


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Xspc is one of the cleanest rads out of box. They do well to get the gunk out in manufacturing. Blitzing wouldn't hurt, but doing some good flushing with hot water will probably be good enough


Agreed. Having used both rads before.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quick question. What dyes would I need to use to dye my xt-1 coolant grey?


----------



## Animag771

Have the parts on their way for my first loop and was hoping to get some questions answered. I started another thread but not much activity going on there. I am wanting to use Mayhems Pastel Red concentrate with distilled water in my system, but not sure about some things.

Does using dye increase temps compared using pure distilled?
Has anybody had issues with Mayhem Pastel staining PETG?
What can I expect as far as additional maintenance compared to no dye?

Just trying to figure out if dye is right for me or if I'm better off using red PETG.

Thanks for any help, in advance.


----------



## Animag771

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Quick question. What dyes would I need to use to dye my xt-1 coolant grey?


Found this on a painting website. Looks like it could get expensive... Good luck!

"The simplest way to achieve Gray from the three Primaries is this:
Blend equal parts of Blue and Red, resulting in a crude Purple. Into that mix add small portions of Yellow until a dark Gray appears. To lighten its Chroma, you can - very carefully - add small quantities of White."


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Quick question. What dyes would I need to use to dye my xt-1 coolant grey?


Red and green works with Pastel white to get get. Was like 10:1 green to red I believe... Not sure how easy it'll be to get x1 or xt1 to be a good grey tho


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Red and green works with Pastel white to get get. Was like 10:1 green to red I believe... Not sure how easy it'll be to get x1 or xt1 to be a good grey tho


+1, was wondering if I could ever make a silver coolant and gray is close enough for government work.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Cool, thanks guys
+rep


----------



## Mayhem

You can do it with Pastel and you can do a grayish coolant for clear but pastel works better. And yes we can so a silver looking coolant using A2 (aurora) plus the above gray formula of red and green.


----------



## fleetfeather

hmmmm, how does UV Oil Black look under UV lighting? Would it be worth adding some UV pink to it to try increase the "UV-ness"?

I'd also be super interested in a temperature reactive coolant, wherein at room temp, the coolant appears black, but as the coolant heats up, it changes to red.


----------



## Swuell

Could someone tell me if I need the full kit to clean Hardware labs rads? Or are they pretty clean so a good flush would do and I would just need the second kit? Also where would I go and do the acid bath if that's needed... :|. That just sounds bad lol.


----------



## Mr Brothers

hi
i got 2 sets of Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning System and i just got done filling 3 out of 6 rads, apparently i need about 2 more bottles of Mayhems Blitz Part 1. do i need to buy 2 more kits or is there anyplace i can buy just the part 1?

Thanks


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Brothers*
> 
> hi
> i got 2 sets of Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning System and i just got done filling 3 out of 6 rads, apparently i need about 2 more bottles of Mayhems Blitz Part 1. do i need to buy 2 more kits or is there anyplace i can buy just the part 1?
> 
> Thanks


you can just reuse PT1


----------



## Chibodee88

Just finished my 2nd build with aurora 2 supernova plus dye



stuffed it all inside a new Thermaltake Core V21


----------



## Mayhem

Oky up for general sale as such is the Mayhems Blitz "part one" only kit, how ever these are for sale as is. if you do not use with part two that is not our fault if you coolants decide to go boobs up.

This for for thouse of you who wish to clean a massive amount of rads









http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-system-clone.html

Weve been working on a none staining Dye and it works. You can spill it on wood or carpets and it will clean up with no problems how ever ...... its precipitation into tubing is a bit irregular due to the coating we have given it to stop staining. Its like we've given in one hand and taken with the other so we need to do more testing ... haha


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky up for general sale as such is the Mayhems Blitz "part one" only kit, how ever these are for sale as is. if you do not use with part two that is not our fault if you coolants decide to go boobs up.
> 
> This for for thouse of you who wish to clean a massive amount of rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-system-clone.html
> 
> Weve been working on a none staining Dye and it works. You can spill it on wood or carpets and it will clean up with no problems how ever ...... its precipitation into tubing is a bit irregular due to the coating we have given it to stop staining. Its like we've given in one hand and taken with the other so we need to do more testing ... haha


Lots of people will be happy for the post one only kits.

The stainless dye sounds petty awesome so far


----------



## Mayhem

Question ...

Would people be more interested in X1 and XT1 if we sold them in smaller sizes e.g "100ml" . X1 would make 1 Ltr and Xt1 would make 2 ltrs at this size. The post and packing will be very low so would impact less. We are working on making Pastel 100ml as well but this will take time and will need thoughtly testing before release.


----------



## fleetfeather

What's the volume of those little dye bottles? XT1 concentrate in one of those?


----------



## Mayhem

the dye bottle are 15ml lol. so that would never work lol.


----------



## fleetfeather

Crazy concept time:

What about the idea of dehydrated concentrate cubes? Similar to sugar cubes or chicken stock cubes, but full of Pastel/X1/XT1 goodness


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Question ...
> 
> Would people be more interested in X1 and XT1 if we sold them in smaller sizes e.g "100ml" . X1 would make 1 Ltr and Xt1 would make 2 ltrs at this size. The post and packing will be very low so would impact less. We are working on making Pastel 100ml as well but this will take time and will need thoughtly testing before release.


I think a larger pastel would be most desirable. Maybe make 2L at a time instead of 1L.

With the popularity of thicker rads, I think many builds are finding themselves in the 1-2L of fluid range that previously were under 1L. To me, this means x1 and xt-1 are probably fine and pastel should be able to make 2L.

My 2 cents


----------



## Mayhem

Its a mixed bag after talking with some resellers, people mainly by enough to make 1 Ltr. Markets dictate that users buy more slim line rads than they do thicker ones. Hence 1 Ltr is fine for most (but not all).


----------



## Mr Brothers

So in my instructions on part 2 it say
5. Check for leaks. Using just the pump, *recirculate the fluids for 24 hours continuously*. Regularly check any installed filters and clean as necessary.,

Is this right ?


----------



## tarui04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarui04*
> 
> I am using PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing. this is supposedly the tubing that does not have the plasticiser or something.
> 
> I have a drain valve at the bottom but for draining the front rad I remove the rad completely and drain it manually. usually at this point there is a small amount of water in the tubing, like 30-40ml and 10-20ml in the bay res.
> 
> while filling from empty, I measured and realised I needed roughly 1 litre of water to fill the loop. As of this moment, I've used 11 litres of distilled water to flush the loop and I used the included pH meter to measure the pH of pure distilled water and the drained water and the pH is the same. The colour looks the same as well. I also filled a small section of tubing that has not gone through the part 2 treatment with water that was drained from the loop and it looks exactly like the pic I posted.
> When the loop is empty, the tubings remained semi-translucent as per the pic.
> 
> To put it simply, I've flushed the loop 11 times over, well over what is stated in the manual and there's unused tubing that remains clear, even with the drained water. it's very obvious that any part 2 has been flushed and something from the cleaning system has stained/clouded the tubings.
> 
> Full parts list.
> 
> Koolance QD3 Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling 13 x 19mm (1/2 x 3/4in)
> Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings, 1/2" x 3/4" Six Pack - Chrome
> Enzotech Rotary Fitting G 1/4 Thread - Male to Male
> Swiftech mcr320 QP-res
> XSPC G1/4" 10mm Male to Female Fitting - Chrome Finish
> Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm
> XSPC G1/4″ 90° Rotary Fitting - Chrome Finish
> Aquacomputer Kryographics Hawaii for Radeon R9 290X and 290 Acrylic Glass
> XSPC D5 bay res V2
> EK supreme HK cpu waterblock.
> EK mosfet nickel plated waterblock


@Mayhem

can you reply me on the above mentioned problem?


----------



## Vindicare

My tubing is the same and also got cloudy.

what liquid you using? for now i'm using ek clear.


----------



## tarui04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> My tubing is the same and also got cloudy.
> 
> what liquid you using? for now i'm using ek clear.


Are you referring to me?

I'm using pure distilled water


----------



## Vindicare

just curious.

eventually ill replace all tubing to test.

if part 2 is doing the clouding, what i can do is everytime i'll do maintnance and tubing change, ill change the tubing after the part 2 cleaning.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarui04*
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> can you reply me on the above mentioned problem?


And you flushed w/ part one in the rads removed from your loop? (just checking)
Also was this with previously used tubing or new?


----------



## emsj86

Anyone have a picture of x1 blue in there system. I like the pastel but kinda what to see through my hardware alittle to the Po and cpu block of you know what I mean. On a side note will adding deep blue to white pastel eventually get me to blue berry pastel color or close to it?


----------



## Mayhem

@tarui04 Would not have a clue we use Primo Advance LRT and never had any issues what so ever. It may be the residue from the flux when being flushed out from the rads of some thing else. We cannot answer a question with out actually being there or having a before and after sample for comparing or actually experiencing it our self.

In our experience if your system goes over 35c then this is when clouding or colour changes happen to tubing. You should not run the system e.g have the cpu / gpu running when using part two and should just use normal water and a pump to move the fluid around.

If you follow our video or instructions word for word you should not have any issues what so ever.


----------



## Vindicare

flushed my system, water is all cloudy.

what might have happened is that i did not flush part 2 properly, system has been turned off aniway.

will do some more flushing this weekend.


----------



## Mayhem

When i get some time over the weekend ill have a play and see if i can replicate this issue you are having how ever you have a lot off different products there and we dont have them all on hand and may have to order some in. What colour are the qdc's you are using?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Brothers*
> 
> So in my instructions on part 2 it say
> 5. Check for leaks. Using just the pump, *recirculate the fluids for 24 hours continuously*. Regularly check any installed filters and clean as necessary.,
> 
> Is this right ?


Yes, that's right. 24 hrs with only the pump on.

Part 2 of Mayhems' instructional videos covers usage of Blitz Part 2.






- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
*Edit::*
I double-checked and my "Usage of Part 2" instructions do say ...
Quote:


> "5. Check for leaks. Using just the pump, recirculate the fluids for 24 hours continuously. Regularly check any installed filters and clean as necessary.


... but I did notice that starting @ 9:56 in the video he does say ...
Quote:


> You need to run this about two to four hours. Again, read your instructions it'll tell you how long on there to run it for. You can if you wish, run it for 12 hours to try and pick up the most amount of crap in your system as possible. You can then empty it out and then, if you've got some leftover, run it for another 12 hours. So you can do 24 hours.


And then in the video they run it for 12 hours.

Soooo, seems you do have a bit of leeway. lol


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Anyone have a picture of x1 blue in there system. I like the pastel but kinda what to see through my hardware alittle to the Po and cpu block of you know what I mean. On a side note will adding deep blue to white pastel eventually get me to blue berry pastel color or close to it?


My rig is using X1 blue. Don't have any lighting right now though.


----------



## tarui04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> And you flushed w/ part one in the rads removed from your loop? (just checking)
> Also was this with previously used tubing or new?


Using brand new tubings.

Yes I cleaned out part one from the rads before installing into the loop. Pretty sure i did this step as i took a 1 day wait before starting part 2 (had some questions to ask)

I flushed it with tap water then with distilled water.


----------



## tarui04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @tarui04 Would not have a clue we use Primo Advance LRT and never had any issues what so ever. It may be the residue from the flux when being flushed out from the rads of some thing else. We cannot answer a question with out actually being there or having a before and after sample for comparing or actually experiencing it our self.
> 
> In our experience if your system goes over 35c then this is when clouding or colour changes happen to tubing. You should not run the system e.g have the cpu / gpu running when using part two and should just use normal water and a pump to move the fluid around.
> 
> If you follow our video or instructions word for word you should not have any issues what so ever.


I followed the video to the t.

the pump was powered by an external power supply so the PC wasn't even on at any time. I havent used my PC for months already and my room is kept at a max of 29degC during day time and 25-27 at night.

Ok. would you want a sample of the water ( from flushing the loop) and a small section of cloudy tubings? I dont mind sending it to the US.


----------



## darwing

Ok I'm about to get se this meyhems liquid what are the caviots for this PH nonsense and stuff lol

What do I need to put it in my system without it going brown or whatever people are saying about it?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Ok I'm about to get se this meyhems liquid what are the caviots for this PH nonsense and stuff lol
> 
> *What do I need to put it in my system without it going brown or whatever people are saying about it?*


Pastel Black is the most sensitive coolant to contaminants. Basically, clean your system with a Blitz Pro kit according the directions, and you shouldn't have to worry about it discolouring. That's pretty much the exact reason Blitz was created. Flux within radiators reacts with some coolants/dyes, it reacts most notably with Pastel and red dye. Pastel can get a slight brown/yellow tint if there's too much flux, and red will turn into crap brown when exposed to excessive flux. With Pastel Black you have both those working against you. The Blitz kit strips all flux from the surface of the solder joints, entirely removing that as a factor for coolants.

So to digress and summarize, *you need to clean your system with the Blitz Pro kit and you're golden.*


----------



## Mayhem

@tarui04 We will need a sample of tubing before and after (about 20mm each), we will need a sample of the water afterwards from the system. If you PM me ill give you our address.

Were based in the UK and very proud to be from the UK.


----------



## DNMock

Alright, time to get going on this upgrade.

Quick questions: Pastel Blueberry is too light for my target blue and Rasberry Purple is a bit too dark. Going for this color blue here:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





Yep a colts themed rig!



1) I'm thinking the pastel Blue pre-mixed coolant and then a bottle of the purple and blue concentrated dyes to drip in there to get it where i want it to be. seem like a good idea? Only problem really is this the rez is around all black painted wood with smoked acrylic sheets on top.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






] so the fluid will actually need to be a little lighter being around so much black like that else I'd go with the purple one and blue and just mix em together.

2) if I run a tube all the way through the middle of that rad and put a bunch of LED lights in it, would that be enough to get it to have a bit of a glow or is it too thick for that. I believe the res is 50mm wide.

3) Are there any specific acrylic tube brands I should stay away from or that you prefer using with pastels?

4) It's a big loop, takes about 6 liters to fill up, 6 to 7 meters of tubing etc. etc. will i need 2 of the stage 1 kits to fully clean it out?

5) Mayhem (or anyone who knows his feelings on this) do you prefer we order directly from your site or from a distributor? It's gonna end up being 6 liters pastel 2 dye concentrates and 2 stage 1 kits. Do you prefer smaller orders like that be done through your re-sellers or directly from you?

6) Finally I don't suppose you could get 2 of the 240mm fan grills that haven't been separated yet (making it a 480mm square mounting bracket kinda like this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






If not, no worries I can just weld 2 of the 240's together myself. Blue the color of choice of course.

Sorry for the long winded post, here is a picture of an adorable baby skunk to make it up to you:


----------



## Animag771

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Are there any specific *acrylic tube* brands I should stay away from or that you prefer using with pastels?


Have you thought about using PETG instead of acrylic? It is less prone to cracking, easier to bend, comes in multiple colors and in the end it will be cheaper.


----------



## Animag771

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animag771*
> 
> Have the parts on their way for my first loop and was hoping to get some questions answered. I started another thread but not much activity going on there. I am wanting to use Mayhems Pastel Red concentrate with distilled water in my system, but not sure about some things.
> 
> Does using dye increase temps compared using pure distilled?
> Has anybody had issues with Mayhem Pastel staining PETG?
> What can I expect as far as additional maintenance compared to no dye?
> 
> Just trying to figure out if dye is right for me or if I'm better off using red PETG.
> 
> Thanks for any help, in advance.


Does anybody have any answers on this?


----------



## DNMock

Dye's, don't add anything temp wise

Red apparently is the worst about staining stuff

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/products/normal-coolants/mayhems-oastel

check out that link for a info on pastels.

As for PETG, ill sit on my hands a bit until I see what Mayhem has to say. It will probably dye the hell out of it since PETG slowly breaths off fluids


----------



## Animag771

Thanks for the info and link


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Alright, time to get going on this upgrade.
> 
> Quick questions: Pastel Blueberry is too light for my target blue and Rasberry Purple is a bit too dark. Going for this color blue here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep a colts themed rig!
> 
> 
> 
> 1) I'm thinking the pastel Blue pre-mixed coolant and then a bottle of the purple and blue concentrated dyes to drip in there to get it where i want it to be. seem like a good idea? Only problem really is this the rez is around all black painted wood with smoked acrylic sheets on top.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ] so the fluid will actually need to be a little lighter being around so much black like that else I'd go with the purple one and blue and just mix em together.
> 
> 2) if I run a tube all the way through the middle of that rad and put a bunch of LED lights in it, would that be enough to get it to have a bit of a glow or is it too thick for that. I believe the res is 50mm wide.
> 
> 3) Are there any specific acrylic tube brands I should stay away from or that you prefer using with pastels?
> 
> 4) It's a big loop, takes about 6 liters to fill up, 6 to 7 meters of tubing etc. etc. will i need 2 of the stage 1 kits to fully clean it out?
> 
> 5) Mayhem (or anyone who knows his feelings on this) do you prefer we order directly from your site or from a distributor? It's gonna end up being 6 liters pastel 2 dye concentrates and 2 stage 1 kits. Do you prefer smaller orders like that be done through your re-sellers or directly from you?
> 
> 6) Finally I don't suppose you could get 2 of the 240mm fan grills that haven't been separated yet (making it a 480mm square mounting bracket kinda like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not, no worries I can just weld 2 of the 240's together myself. Blue the color of choice of course.
> 
> Sorry for the long winded post, here is a picture of an adorable baby skunk to make it up to you:


1: Your best bet would be to start with Pastel Ice White and dye it yourself. All pastel is just Ice White with dyes added from the factory.

2: You'd be better off using Cathodes, since LEDs have direction light, while cathodes are ambient. Even then any light going through a rad is going to be pretty dim. It might give a cool effect in really low light, but in a lit environment it will likely be unnoticeable

3: As far as pastel is concerned, no. Acrylic tubing should be entirely unaffected by pastel. That's not to say there are acrylic tubing/fittings brands are better than another, but you'd have to take that to another thread. Not much fittings/tubing traffic through here, as it's not a thread for that.

4: Part One is JUST for the radiators. You CAN reuse it on multiple radiators, but each use the acid becomes weaker and it needs a longer exposure time. As to the exact extended amount of time, you'd need to consult Mick about that noting your country and where you ordered it from, as different countries have different regulations resulting in different concentrations of the acid. You can order part 2 separately to accommodate your unusually large loop.

5: Dyes dye things, it's in their name. It's all a question of how long. Basically, a standard loop will likely take a year or two before dyes cause any staining.

6: Mick, as in the guy Mayhems from this thread, doesn't manufacture those. Mayhems Solutions makes coolants, and the blitz kits. Mayhems Technologies Ltd makes the radiator grills. They working under the same banner, two separate companies. Mick doesn't really have control over the rad grills.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animag771*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by Animag771 View Post
> 
> Have the parts on their way for my first loop and was hoping to get some questions answered. I started another thread but not much activity going on there. I am wanting to use Mayhems Pastel Red concentrate with distilled water in my system, but not sure about some things.
> 
> *Does using dye increase temps compared using pure distilled?*
> Has anybody had issues with Mayhem Pastel staining PETG?
> What can I expect as far as additional maintenance compared to no dye?
> 
> Just trying to figure out if dye is right for me or if I'm better off using red PETG.
> 
> Thanks for any help, in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody have any answers on this?
Click to expand...

Dunno, but I will now. Crash course in thermal-fluid dynamics involving thermal capacity. Basically we use water for cooling because it has an extremely high thermal capacity, meaning it takes a lot of energy to increase it's temperature. It takes over 4000joules to increase 1kg (1liter) of water by 1 degree kelvin (Celsius). Now, we don't heat a stagnant pool of water, we heat and cool a loop. At 1 Gallon of water per minute, it takes roughly 260 joules of energy to increase the coolant temperature by 1 degree kelvin(Celsius). Now, by adding stuff to water we decrease it's thermal capacity. How much we're decreasing thermal capacity by depends on the thermal capacity of what we're adding and the volume of the additive. Even if the dye we add has a thermal capacity to where 1 joule increased it by 1c it wouldn't matter, because we're adding so little dye to the liquid that it's not decreasing the thermal capacity enough to effect coolant temperatures. As to the effects coolant concentrates have on coolant potential X1 has been tested to have entirely negligible effects on coolant temperatures based on several reputable websites reviews. XT1 will perform just as good as X1, theoretically better but if water is 100% and X1 == water than XT1 != > 100%. All rantings aside, X1 and XT1 perform identically to water. Pastel will actually run one or two degrees hotter than water as far as coolant temperature due to the decreased thermal capacity. Most people think the aesthetics are worth the minute thermal increase, but that's for you to decide.

Just for reference, 1 watt is 1 joule per second. So if your CPU blue is putting out 200 watts it's going to increase temperature by approximately .8kelvin, give or take quite a bit depending on your flowrate. (That estimate was assuming 1GPM flow rate.) Now in a perfect world we could decrease the thermal capacity by half, and the math would move in a linear fashion and our coolant would be twice as hot. The problem is we don't have that luxury. The hotter your coolant is, the more efficient your radiators are removing more heat. Since your loop is indeed a loop it will be in a perpetual state of NEAR equilibrium. If you're cooling 1000watts ( a LOT for a liquid loop, approx high end GPUs and one heavily overclocked CPU) you can expect around a 5kelvin variation from components to radiators. So to digress, the thermal capacity plays a large roll in coolant performance, but unfortunately we don't have the luxury of a perfect linear world. I go over this to emphasize that you can't expect the coolant used to make a massive difference in thermal performance.

Now to end our science discussion and go into maintenance. The short answer is dye will not effect maintenance at all. You may need to add more dye as it fades over extended periods of time, but the maintenance of the loop itself will not change. However, if you use COOLANTs loop maintenance will DECREASE. X1 can last 1-2 years before it needs to be changed. It has corrosion inhibitors in it to prevent metals from tarnishing, it has surfactants to keep things from depositing in your loop, and it has biocides to prevent microbial growth. This is the same with XT-1, Pastel, and so on. That's the real reason we use coolants, they're good for the life of our components, and they decrease maintenance.

Hope all that clears some *stuff* up.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Thank you ZytheEKS

to DNMock : As of hard tubing - "Mayhems aka Me (mick) as the tester" has never tested coolants on hard tubing as per say. We have flexible tubing and we have about 40+ different brands. I cannot comment my self on hard tubing for this reason alone. There are many users here who can let you know though and ill presume if there was an issue my email would be flooded due to the amount of effort people have to go though doing hard tubing.

As for a 1 off Rad grill ill direct you straight to Toby -> https://www.facebook.com/toby1kanobi?ref=ts&fref=ts He is Mayhem Tech and will be able to help you out.

As for ordering its normally cheaper for you to order locally than than from us (some times). We dont mind whom you buy from that is not for us to decide. If you would like to order all them products in one go you could contact sales and see if they can offer you a discount (thats quote a huge amount of fluid). What i would ask first is what rads are you running and do you really need to use the blitz kits if your running clean rads?

and finally that blue leave this with me for a few hours and ill have a play i may have something for you.

Mick


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Thank you ZytheEKS
> 
> to DNMock : As of hard tubing - "Mayhems aka Me (mick) as the tester" has never tested coolants on hard tubing as per say. We have flexible tubing and we have about 40+ different brands. I cannot comment my self on hard tubing for this reason alone. There are many users here who can let you know though and ill presume if there was an issue my email would be flooded due to the amount of effort people have to go though doing hard tubing.
> 
> As for a 1 off Rad grill ill direct you straight to Toby -> https://www.facebook.com/toby1kanobi?ref=ts&fref=ts He is Mayhem Tech and will be able to help you out.
> 
> As for ordering its normally cheaper for you to order locally than than from us (some times). We dont mind whom you buy from that is not for us to decide. If you would like to order all them products in one go you could contact sales and see if they can offer you a discount (thats quote a huge amount of fluid). What i would ask first is what rads are you running and do you really need to use the blitz kits if your running clean rads?
> 
> and finally that blue leave this with me for a few hours and ill have a play i may have something for you.
> 
> Mick


Top notch helpful as usual from Mick and Mayhems in general - good stuff. Added you as a friend on linked in btw

Mark aka tipes


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Thank you ZytheEKS
> 
> to DNMock : As of hard tubing - "Mayhems aka Me (mick) as the tester" has never tested coolants on hard tubing as per say. We have flexible tubing and we have about 40+ different brands. I cannot comment my self on hard tubing for this reason alone. There are many users here who can let you know though and ill presume if there was an issue my email would be flooded due to the amount of effort people have to go though doing hard tubing.
> 
> As for a 1 off Rad grill ill direct you straight to Toby -> https://www.facebook.com/toby1kanobi?ref=ts&fref=ts He is Mayhem Tech and will be able to help you out.
> 
> As for ordering its normally cheaper for you to order locally than than from us (some times). We dont mind whom you buy from that is not for us to decide. If you would like to order all them products in one go you could contact sales and see if they can offer you a discount (thats quote a huge amount of fluid). What i would ask first is what rads are you running and do you really need to use the blitz kits if your running clean rads?
> 
> and finally that blue leave this with me for a few hours and ill have a play i may have something for you.
> 
> Mick


Thanks Mick, quality as always.

I'm running a pair of the phobya 1080 radiators with your x1 fluid dyed ocean blue. Was gonna flush and clear out all the plumbing before loading in the pastels to make sure none of the old dyes and fluid remain.

I don't mind paying extra if it's more convenient for you guys and means more money in your pockets. It's the least i can do after being a pain in the butt customer already.

I'll get ahold of Toby on the grills and as for the dye combo that is fantastic news. Tryin' to get a great colts themed setup and I'm a complete failure at artistic things. Thanks for the help again.


----------



## Animag771

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Hope all that clears some *stuff* up.


Well about 98% of that made sense to me and that was enough. Thanks for all of that helpful info. That cleared A LOT up for me.


----------



## Animag771

I'm looking for a solid looking red color, not so much on the transparent reds. Is there any way to get this kind of look with the X1 or XT1?

Something like this


----------



## XanderTheGoober

I'm no expert but that looks like it has plenty of dye in it. Maybe able to get it with either x1 or xt1 but you may have to go heavy on the concentrate.
second, please use the edit button.


----------



## DarthBaggins

@Animag771 Pastel would be your best bang for the buck for a solid red hue in your tubing


----------



## pompss

My pastel white start yellowing



Before fill with pastel I flush the rad and waterblock and ph was good

What can be ?? there are still white spots


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> My pastel white start yellowing
> 
> 
> 
> Before fill with pastel I flush the rad and waterblock and ph was good
> 
> What can be ?? there are still white spots


the tube in the background still looks really white, is it the fluid or the reservoir that's changing color? I have no clue what it could be, I'm just curious haha.


----------



## DarthBaggins

The white spots look like light (LED's) shining at the res, do you happen to know the temps of your coolant at this time?

Other than I can see a difference between the super white of the components surrounding the reservoir as well.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animag771*
> 
> I'm looking for a solid looking red color, not so much on the transparent reds. Is there any way to get this kind of look with the X1 or XT1?
> 
> Something like this


The short answer? No, not really. You could get that same shade of red definitely the problem is the particles in pastel reflect all the colours, giving it that shiny effect. You can't get that with transparent so it will have a different... how do I put this, a different texture.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> My pastel white start yellowing
> 
> 
> 
> Before fill with pastel I flush the rad and waterblock and ph was good
> 
> What can be ?? there are still white spots


Did you shake it like a madman before filling?

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Thank you ZytheEKS
> 
> to DNMock : As of hard tubing - "Mayhems aka Me (mick) as the tester" has never tested coolants on hard tubing as per say. We have flexible tubing and we have about 40+ different brands. I cannot comment my self on hard tubing for this reason alone. There are many users here who can let you know though and ill presume if there was an issue my email would be flooded due to the amount of effort people have to go though doing hard tubing.
> 
> As for a 1 off Rad grill ill direct you straight to Toby -> https://www.facebook.com/toby1kanobi?ref=ts&fref=ts He is Mayhem Tech and will be able to help you out.
> 
> As for ordering its normally cheaper for you to order locally than than from us (some times). We dont mind whom you buy from that is not for us to decide. If you would like to order all them products in one go you could contact sales and see if they can offer you a discount (thats quote a huge amount of fluid). What i would ask first is what rads are you running and do you really need to use the blitz kits if your running clean rads?
> 
> and finally that blue leave this with me for a few hours and ill have a play i may have something for you.
> 
> Mick
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Mick, quality as always.
> 
> I'm running a pair of the phobya 1080 radiators with your x1 fluid dyed ocean blue. Was gonna flush and clear out all the plumbing before loading in the pastels to make sure none of the old dyes and fluid remain.
> 
> I don't mind paying extra if it's more convenient for you guys and means more money in your pockets. It's the least i can do after being a pain in the butt customer already.
> 
> I'll get ahold of Toby on the grills and as for the dye combo that is fantastic news. Tryin' to get a great colts themed setup and I'm a complete failure at artistic things. Thanks for the help again.
Click to expand...

Phobya rads are made by a certain company so my advise would be to blitz them yes. Can you let me know how much water they take please. and there dimensions im going to start cataloging sizes and amounts of fluid.

Sorry for late replay i have a new blue that is close to that but we haven't fully tested it yet. Please leave me with this over the weekend to test and mull over and ill get back to you. we have got a lot going on in house and i need to free up some time for you.

BTW you don't need to be good at art to be a creative artist. It only takes you to open your mind.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> The short answer? No, not really. You could get that same shade of red definitely the problem is the particles in pastel reflect all the colours, giving it that shiny effect. You can't get that with transparent so it will have a different... how do I put this, a different texture.
> 
> -Z
> Did you shake it like a madman before filling?
> 
> -Z


Yes, i fill it 2-3 month ago.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Phobya rads are made by a certain company so my advise would be to blitz them yes. Can you let me know how much water they take please. and there dimensions im going to start cataloging sizes and amounts of fluid.
> 
> Sorry for late replay i have a new blue that is close to that but we haven't fully tested it yet. Please leave me with this over the weekend to test and mull over and ill get back to you. we have got a lot going on in house and i need to free up some time for you.
> 
> BTW you don't need to be good at art to be a creative artist. It only takes you to open your mind.


Sounds great, again I appreciate your hard work on all this stuff. I'll definitely get you some numbers on the volume of fluid those rads hold too, would be my pleasure.


----------



## tarui04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @tarui04 We will need a sample of tubing before and after (about 20mm each), we will need a sample of the water afterwards from the system. If you PM me ill give you our address.
> 
> Were based in the UK and very proud to be from the UK.


my mistake. I kept thinking you are a US based company.


----------



## emsj86

can i make pastel blue blurry with white pastel and blue dye. i ask because i have a bottle of white and allready have blue berry in my system, but with upgrading to a 250ml res i need more and figure I could save a few bucks using the white mixed with blue dye if it works?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Now that I'm home and on my real monitors, yeah that white is definitely discoloured, @pompss What steps did you take to flush your rads prior to install?


----------



## RpeeKooz

ive just checked my ph level in my pastel red ive been running for a few months.the ph is about 4.i used part 2 for my new phobya rads...ive notice it turned pinkish...is there anyway to get it back to the right ph level and back to its bright red colour ???
add dye drain and refill??
cheers


----------



## pmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> ive just checked my ph level in my pastel red ive been running for a few months.the ph is about 4.i used part 2 for my new phobya rads...ive notice it turned pinkish...is there anyway to get it back to the right ph level and back to its bright red colour ???
> add dye drain and refill??
> cheers


Yeah for future, I would also like to know if there is an option to adjust the ph if needed ...I do not need yet, but its good to know, I will be monitoring this new loop once set up, a lot more closely than last one.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> The short answer? No, not really. You could get that same shade of red definitely the problem is the particles in pastel reflect all the colours, giving it that shiny effect. You can't get that with transparent so it will have a different... how do I put this, a different texture.
> 
> -Z
> Did you shake it like a madman before filling?
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, i fill it 2-3 month ago.
Click to expand...

Its unusual for the particles to drop out or any yellowing. Did you have dye in the system before, How did you clean your system out, how old is the system, what is the full config of the hardware of the system, what is the PH of the water now.

How much fluid is in the system.

Mick


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> can i make pastel blue blurry with white pastel and blue dye. i ask because i have a bottle of white and allready have blue berry in my system, but with upgrading to a 250ml res i need more and figure I could save a few bucks using the white mixed with blue dye if it works?


Yes you can just add the dye to the pastel and off you go







.


----------



## Mayhem

RpeeKooz If you didn't use part one (mayhems Blitz pro kit) to clean your rads and only used part two (which is not made to clean rads its meant as a system flush and PH balancer after part one has been used) then you will have issues.

If you reach though and wach the video we created on youtube




You'll see why its important to use the part one of the kit.


----------



## Vindicare

traded all tubing, flushed the system about 4 times with distilled water.

its now coming clear.

now the pump will be working for 18 or so hours.

now when i get home, i will flush again and fill with ek clear coolant (that i bought before finding mayhem, in the future will use mayhem coolants, maybe even try a pastel).

my computer is finnaly running (bad motherboard) so i will be able to diagnose better.

still dont understand what happened system got all cloudy, bad part 2 flush, or bad reaction with ek coolant?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Probably still had remnants of part 2 still in the loop so when you added your EK Clear it picked it up and became cloudy, just IMO


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its unusual for the particles to drop out or any yellowing. Did you have dye in the system before, How did you clean your system out, how old is the system, what is the full config of the hardware of the system, what is the PH of the water now.
> 
> How much fluid is in the system.
> 
> Mick


Its a dual loop system with red pastel cooling gpu and memory with a 360 xspc rad and 240 crossflow xspc rad cooling the cpu only with the pastel white.
The rad 240 from xspc was used before with red x1 but i cleaned and flushed before installing it in the new system
the rad 240 its clooling only the cpu with ek supremacy waterblock cleand and flush too. Maybe the pump could have some very very little aurora silver nanoparticles residue left in the thread connections but i don't think this could affect since i run the second loop with red pastel and aurora and its good also the residue are very verr very less inside the connection (where installing the fittings)

The system its 2 and half month old i used brand new rigid tubing,

the cpu i have its a 5820k.

Before i use another pastel white i would like to know what could cause it to avoid this happen again

Ph its 7


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its unusual for the particles to drop out or any yellowing. Did you have dye in the system before, How did you clean your system out, how old is the system, what is the full config of the hardware of the system, what is the PH of the water now.
> 
> How much fluid is in the system.
> 
> Mick
> 
> 
> 
> Its a dual loop system with red pastel cooling gpu and memory with a 360 xspc rad and 240 crossflow xspc rad cooling the cpu only with the pastel white.
> The rad 240 from xspc was used before with red x1 but i cleaned and flushed before installing it in the new system
> the rad 240 its clooling only the cpu with ek supremacy waterblock cleand and flush too. Maybe the pump could have some very very little aurora silver nanoparticles residue left in the thread connections but i don't think this could affect since i run the second loop with red pastel and aurora and its good also the residue are very verr very less inside the connection (where installing the fittings)
> 
> The system its 2 and half month old i used brand new rigid tubing,
> 
> the cpu i have its a 5820k.
> 
> Before i use another pastel white i would like to know what could cause it to avoid this happen again
> 
> Ph its 7
Click to expand...

TBH i dont have an answer why this would happen with your system. What did you use to clean the system out? It sounds like you have no reason what so ever esp if your system is at PH 7. I can only suggest we replace your fluids and see how it goes from there.

Mick


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> TBH i dont have an answer why this would happen with your system. What did you use to clean the system out? It sounds like you have no reason what so ever esp if your system is at PH 7. I can only suggest we replace your fluids and see how it goes from there.
> 
> Mick


Ok mick with what i should clean the system ???
What you think about this procedure.
Flush out the pastel , flush with Di water . add DI water with vinegard run for 1 hours and the flush its like 5 times with Di water and refill with pastel.

Will be this enought??/

I used baking soda and sometime i use vinegard

Coud be the sun ??
My system sometimes get some sun light since its close to my windows


----------



## NE0XY

Hi,
So I recently finished up rebuilding my loop (1 week ago) and with it cleaned the rads and system once complete with the blitz pro kit. The coolant I use is your UV Blue and for the first 3-4 days it glowed beautifully but now it hardly glows anymore, just a faint effect, what could this depend on?

Thank you


----------



## Vindicare

ok system flushed and ek coolant in.

let me just say that part 1 on a new alphacool radiator was fabulous ... really ... i have had some weird problems in the past with these rads.


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Mayhems X1 UV Purple


how is the uv purple ... under UV light ?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> how is the uv purple ... under UV light ?


I'll get back to you on that. Had that coolant running for only couple of days and tore down to redo the wrap and tear out some excess metal from the case. Dremeled off some random bumps and rivets that had no purpose. Very excited about the results. I love the UV Purple coolant for sure, UV light or no.


----------



## androidd505

Hi all!

I needed to know if Mayhem Blitz Pro cleaning kit was ok to use on a Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 360. I am assuming so but I don't want to ruin my parts. Thanks for helping I reached out to Hardware Labs but crickets so far.


----------



## VSG

If it is anything like my own SR2 360, a water flush should be plenty enough.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> TBH i dont have an answer why this would happen with your system. What did you use to clean the system out? It sounds like you have no reason what so ever esp if your system is at PH 7. I can only suggest we replace your fluids and see how it goes from there.
> 
> Mick
> 
> 
> 
> Ok mick with what i should clean the system ???
> What you think about this procedure.
> Flush out the pastel , flush with Di water . add DI water with vinegard run for 1 hours and the flush its like 5 times with Di water and refill with pastel.
> 
> Will be this enought??/
> 
> I used baking soda and sometime i use vinegard
> 
> Coud be the sun ??
> My system sometimes get some sun light since its close to my windows
Click to expand...

Well defo not the sun as the nano particles block UV light direct from the Sun hence why its very difficult to get a UV active Dye working in it. As for flushing id use tap water then finish off with DI water and replace with the new fluid. If you email over you details and don't forget your tel ill get sales to send you some out.


----------



## Bluemustang

I'm planning on running the blitz pro kit and i watched the mayhems instruction videos of how it was hooked up to the faucet. I've also come across this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49EcRP_kpi4 and heard how its not the greatest idea to run tap water through (even if you flush afterwards with distilled?). How safe/ok is that really? Will running distilled through it 3-4 times certainly remove any mineral/chemical deposits from the tap water?

If its fine what can i use to attach a length of tubing to the faucet?

Also i assume its fine to run number 2 through the loop with acrylic blocks? (CPU and GPU blocks are nickel with acrylic tops) i assume so cause most reservoirs are acrylic but i had to ask cause ive heard certain things about being careful what you use with those blocks.


----------



## Vindicare

i would not run tap water on anything, especially where i live we have lots of limestone.


----------



## Mayhem

@DNMock




It looks a little darker in real life.

Could do with being a little darker but if we make it to dark it looks purple. This is the new Non Staining Dye we've been deving.

The none staining means it wont stain Most clothing and carpets ect ect (we say most we cannot test everything lol) how ever it won't stop going into pores of tubing as thats nothing to with the dye but the tubing being porous. it should not stain reservoirs or anything like that if is not porous.

It has a excellent PH range (5.5 to 10) and also can withstand up to 100c with out losing its ability to not stain. It also will not precipitate out of the liquid.

They are mixable with other none staining dyes we have been working on how ever they should not be mixed with standard dyes. We do not recommend people use them with any other products except Mayhems liquids.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @DNMock
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks a little darker in real life.
> 
> Could do with being a little darker but if we make it to dark it looks purple. This is the new Non Staining Dye we've been deving.
> 
> 
> 
> The none staining means it wont stain Most clothing and carpets ect ect (we say most we cannot test everything lol) how ever it won't stop going into pores of tubing as thats nothing to with the dye but the tubing being porous. it should't stain reservoirs or anything like that that is not porous.
> 
> *It has a excellent PH range (5.5 to 10) and also can withstand up to 100c* with out losing its ability to not stain. It also will not precipitate out of the liquid.
> 
> They are mixable with other none staining dyes we have been working on how ever they should not be mixed with standard dyes. We do not recommend people use them with any other products except Mayhems liquids.


Ah, this is great news. Now I can use blue coolant to cool my rocket engines without it staining my magical indestructible acrylic tubes. XD

In all seriousness great news on the dyes. Soon enough people asking "Will this stain my blocks" will be a thing of the past

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh thats the aim







.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> I'm planning on running the blitz pro kit and i watched the mayhems instruction videos of how it was hooked up to the faucet. I've also come across this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49EcRP_kpi4 and heard how its not the greatest idea to run tap water through (even if you flush afterwards with distilled?). How safe/ok is that really? Will running distilled through it 3-4 times certainly remove any mineral/chemical deposits from the tap water?
> 
> If its fine what can i use to attach a length of tubing to the faucet?
> 
> Also i assume its fine to run number 2 through the loop with acrylic blocks? (CPU and GPU blocks are nickel with acrylic tops) i assume so cause most reservoirs are acrylic but i had to ask cause ive heard certain things about being careful what you use with those blocks.


Would you mind answering this please, Mayhems? Since this was the suggested way on the mayhems instrunctional videos.

One other thing, does it matter whether i run the faucet hose through the reservoir and out the cpu rather than cpu and out res?

Thanks


----------



## Mayhem

In the UK we flush with tap water. I do not know what your water is like in you area but in the north east of england we have good tap water to use and has minimal lime scale. Since you're not running your system 24/7 with the tap water it should be fine but if your tap water is well..... crap then dont use it and use Di water from were ever you can get it.

Goto your local garden center and source adapter there or local plumbing center.

Part 2 is fine to run through any loop with any config.

Mick


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @DNMock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks a little darker in real life.
> 
> Could do with being a little darker but if we make it to dark it looks purple. This is the new Non Staining Dye we've been deving.
> 
> The none staining means it wont stain Most clothing and carpets ect ect (we say most we cannot test everything lol) how ever it won't stop going into pores of tubing as thats nothing to with the dye but the tubing being porous. it should not stain reservoirs or anything like that if is not porous.
> 
> It has a excellent PH range (5.5 to 10) and also can withstand up to 100c with out losing its ability to not stain. It also will not precipitate out of the liquid.
> 
> They are mixable with other none staining dyes we have been working on how ever they should not be mixed with standard dyes. We do not recommend people use them with any other products except Mayhems liquids.


That's absolutely fantastic! Should I get in contact Michael on your website, or PM you with all the info needed to get my hands on some?

edit: Since it's a new dye still in development, I'm fully aware things may not go as planned. I got no problems accepting the risks. I'm sure you wouldn't put a new dye on display if you weren't confident in it anyways.


----------



## pmac

OK, I have a question to simply make my choice of fluids a little flashier...

I chose the pastels Sunset Yellow and Oil Black. They are somewhat flat, yellow is perfect color though.

So I was wondering if I picked up a bottle of Aurora booster gold for the yellow and the aurora booster silver for the black, would it give the reflective look?
I can not use the Aurora, nor do I want to as a permanent thing, even Mayhems site says it is for show and pictures.
As well my specific CPU water block FAILED according their site (Swiftech Apogee). Not sure what failing means, however it is moot.

Am I on the right track? The booster is just a reflective additive right with no pearls?

Thanks for your time.

(Ultimately I would have chosen the Liquid Metal they were developing, but IIRC Mayhem said they never finished, or it was a dropped project)


----------



## greg1184

Got the Mayhem UV Blue coolant. Very easy to Mix. Cant wait to get my UV cathodes to get this to glow!


----------



## Interstate

Had some x1 red for a few months, got the itch to change it. Dumped a bunch of ocean blue I had lying around and got very close to black. I like it haha


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @DNMock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks a little darker in real life.
> 
> Could do with being a little darker but if we make it to dark it looks purple. This is the new Non Staining Dye we've been deving.
> 
> The none staining means it wont stain Most clothing and carpets ect ect (we say most we cannot test everything lol) how ever it won't stop going into pores of tubing as thats nothing to with the dye but the tubing being porous. it should not stain reservoirs or anything like that if is not porous.
> 
> It has a excellent PH range (5.5 to 10) and also can withstand up to 100c with out losing its ability to not stain. It also will not precipitate out of the liquid.
> 
> They are mixable with other none staining dyes we have been working on how ever they should not be mixed with standard dyes. We do not recommend people use them with any other products except Mayhems liquids.
> 
> 
> 
> That's absolutely fantastic! Should I get in contact Michael on your website, or PM you with all the info needed to get my hands on some?
> 
> edit: Since it's a new dye still in development, I'm fully aware things may not go as planned. I got no problems accepting the risks. I'm sure you wouldn't put a new dye on display if you weren't confident in it anyways.
Click to expand...

The dye has not been tested fully as of yet due to time constraints how ever i can ship you a 1 off sample small sample.We have tested with Pastel, X1 and XT1 one up to 100c. With some flexible tubing. It works quite well how ever we have not tested on dirty rads as of yet.

So there is no guarantee, how ever i have faith.

Pm me your full address details and telephone number and ill put some in the post.


----------



## Mayhem

@pmac Aurora Booster is a Concentration version of Nano Aurora. For use With X1 or Pastel.


----------



## pmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @pmac Aurora Booster is a Concentration version of Nano Aurora. For use With X1 or Pastel.


Thanks for the reply...
So it (the Aurora booster) has the pearls in it then I am assuming correct?

If this is the case...Do you have another option to make the pastels shimmer, or (just a thought) any liquid metal stuff lying around, or other suggestion for something with that effect? I definitely don't want the pearls. but would love a shimmer effect.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh is basically Nano Aurora (the pearls) and a extremely effective surfactant and defoamer mix, this is the only way to make fluids shimmer.


----------



## pmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh is basically Nano Aurora (the pearls) and a extremely effective surfactant and defoamer mix, this is the only way to make fluids shimmer.


pmac sad









Would you mind telling me what happened to the liquid metal project i.e. still work in process, dropped, or discontinued product line (you may have told me a while back, but I do not remember sorry)? I have watched the videos a few times and always wonder what happened, they look amazing.


----------



## Mayhem

Which one's. we have real gold, real silver ie they are real gold and silver if you would like 1 Ltr gold is about £20,000 and silver is about £15,000 per ltr. probably out of most people reach.

Or the pastel versions is pastel + nano aurora + Dye ppl can make themselves.


----------



## pmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Which one's. we have real gold, real silver ie they are real gold and silver if you would like 1 Ltr gold is about £20,000 and silver is about £15,000 per ltr. probably out of most people reach.
> 
> Or the pastel versions is pastel + nano aurora + Dye ppl can make themselves.


These are what I refer to:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUzpOHcsfaI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Y1CwTOMJ8w

Here at 1:38 ....this doesn't look like the nano stuff, but, it says liquid metal. Looks real nice though!

"SFX brought to life with 3 diffident versions of the fluid. After we cracked the base fluid last night the amount of colour and metallic colours we can create is endless. How ever we still have to perfect it oh and chrome liquid is easy !!!!!!!!!!!"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIjpj2oGv9E


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> Thanks for the reply...
> So it (the Aurora booster) has the pearls in it then I am assuming correct?
> 
> If this is the case...Do you have another option to make the pastels shimmer, or (just a thought) any liquid metal stuff lying around, or other suggestion for something with that effect? I definitely don't want the pearls. but would love a shimmer effect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> pmac sad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would you mind telling me what happened to the liquid metal project i.e. still work in process, dropped, or discontinued product line (you may have told me a while back, but I do not remember sorry)? I have watched the videos a few times and always wonder what happened, they look amazing.


Your best bet would be to use Pastel white, dye it grey, then add aurora booser silver. That would definitely give you a liquid metal look.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Which one's. we have real gold, real silver ie they are real gold and silver if you would like 1 Ltr gold is about £20,000 and silver is about £15,000 per ltr. probably out of most people reach.
> 
> Or the pastel versions is pastel + nano aurora + Dye ppl can make themselves.


I could just imagine the look on everyone at Mayhems face if someone ordered a 55 gallon drum of the gold one. XD

-Z


----------



## pmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Your best bet would be to use Pastel white, dye it grey, then add aurora booser silver. That would definitely give you a liquid metal look.
> 
> -Z


That was what I was thinking was adding the silver, to the oil black, but I do not want the pearl stuff, because even on Mayhems site, it says a number of things about not being a permanent fluid, and stagnant spots might be issues, and my water block on CPU is on of the Failed blocks for that stuff, so it really isn't an option, although, I love the appearance, nothing IMHO beats the look on the market that I have seen yet.


----------



## marshymellows

Tought id share my first ever WC build(keep in mind that the cables will not be visable after ive put windows on my side panels)
The mobile camera does not give it justice...


----------



## Vindicare

system all cloudy again, theres stuff floating in the water can't understand what's happening.

everytime i try to get into water cooling end's with me buying a normal cpu cooler and putting all the wc stuff in the garbage.

i took a picture of the tubes is this plasticizer?



it should not be plasticizer, is supposed to be Primiochill advanced lrt tubing.

i flushed the system more then a dozen times, could it be still part 2 in there?

could the ek coolant be reacting with the tube?


----------



## pmac

One thing I noticed when that happened on my last loop, was it was the tubing that looked really cloudy but the reservoir was crystal clear.
I changed this time to primochill as well based on a members recommendation.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> system all cloudy again, theres stuff floating in the water can't understand what's happening.
> 
> everytime i try to get into water cooling end's with me buying a normal cpu cooler and putting all the wc stuff in the garbage.
> 
> i took a picture of the tubes is this plasticizer?
> 
> 
> 
> it should not be plasticizer, is supposed to be Primiochill advanced lrt tubing.
> 
> i flushed the system more then a dozen times, could it be still part 2 in there?
> 
> could the ek coolant be reacting with the tube?


No I don't think so. Couple bunch of questions:
Did you use mayhems part 1 on your rads?
If not, what kind of rads are you using? Did you flush them with tap water originally?
Do you have any koolance quick disconnects?
What does your drain system look like?


----------



## Vindicare

i used part 1 on the rad.

then i used part 2 in the whole system.

after a few days water got cloudy (was not using the system motherboard failed)

so i changed all tubing, flushed the system a few times and got ek clear coolant in it again.

now after 3 days it's like that, i see stuff in the water, reservoir also gets cloudy.

could this be gunk from the radiator still? even after part 1?

radiator is a alphacool xt60 360.

no quick disconects.

my drain is like this:


----------



## tipes

Personally I think Primochill LRT does not actually do what it is supposed to do - think it still leaches plasticzer as they all do.
Have not personally found a tubing that doesn't yet. maybe hardline tubing is the only way to get rid of this problem, but hardline is no where
near as friendly to use etc.

What gives????

Mark


----------



## electro2u

To me the floating particles look like limescale or calcium from hard water. I have been struggling with this as well.


----------



## Vindicare

yhea kind of does.

but i only use distilled water for flushing and ek coolant.

could this be gunk from the rad?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> i used part 1 on the rad.
> 
> then i used part 2 in the whole system.
> 
> after a few days water got cloudy (was not using the system motherboard failed)
> 
> so i changed all tubing, flushed the system a few times and got ek clear coolant in it again.
> 
> now after 3 days it's like that, i see stuff in the water, reservoir also gets cloudy.
> 
> could this be gunk from the radiator still? even after part 1?
> 
> radiator is a alphacool xt60 360.
> 
> no quick disconects.
> 
> my drain is like this:


Odd. Two things:

Where did you order the tubing from?
&
Did you order the tubing by the foot, or did you buy a package? On occasion people have ordered Adv LRT by the foot and were mistakenly shipped Pro LRT. Pro LRT has plasticizers issues, Adv LRT does not.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Personally I think Primochill LRT does not actually do what it is supposed to do - think it still leaches plasticzer as they all do.
> Have not personally found a tubing that doesn't yet. maybe hardline tubing is the only way to get rid of this problem, but hardline is no where
> near as friendly to use etc.
> 
> What gives????
> 
> Mark


That's a rather bold statement. It contains no DEHP plasticizers which are the ones that generally cause issues amongst soft tubing. A tubing without plasticizers is not flex tubing. Plasticizers are what make tubing flexible. I've VERY rarely seen Adv LRT have issues with plasticizers. The majority of the time I've seen people have issues with LRT is when they mistakenly used Pro LRT tubing. The only prominent issue with adv LRT is a slight discoloration issue where it gets a mild yellow/brownish tint.

-Z


----------



## Vindicare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Odd. Two things:
> 
> Where did you order the tubing from?
> &
> Did you order the tubing by the foot, or did you buy a package? On occasion people have ordered Adv LRT by the foot and were mistakenly shipped Pro LRT. Pro LRT has plasticizers issues, Adv LRT does not.
> 
> -Z


From a local store, and actually i'm afraid of that.
They ordered it from the distributer and received a normal plastic bag with the tubing in it no identification, tubing is all clear no way to know.
You guys know where i can order tubing with confidence, on overclockersUK it's out of stock.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> yhea kind of does.
> 
> but i only use distilled water for flushing and ek coolant.
> 
> could this be gunk from the rad?


I really don't think so.

I was using Primochill LRT adv. too. The more I look around forums it seems there has been quite a lot of this going on and Primochill is not really giving people a hard time about replacing the bad tubing. I went to acrylic. I got a bunch of clear Mayhems X1 for my next build.

I was only using distilled also :/

I didn't realize plasticizer looked like that but that's what I'm reading now. It's insane that it can happen so fast and with no real heat going into the loop, but that does appear to be the case.

It got into my Quick Disconnects and wreacked havoc. They were black and the only way to get it off of them was to take the paint off with it.

I got my LRT adv. from Amazon mostly. Maybe Primochill is simply putting Pro tubing in the LRT Adv. boxes and selling it off to get rid of it.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I have used retail packs of the original LRT and the advanced. I saw no real difference between them. I was still scooping small amounts of plasticiser from the CPU block. It was just never that bad with the original for me.

The only way to eliminate it was to use Norprene or hard tubing.


----------



## chronokairo

hi mayhem... just want to ask, will mayhem pastel+dye will react on this silicon sealant(see pic below)?
i was thinking of creating my own reservoir/wall mount pc.


thanks.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Odd. Two things:
> 
> Where did you order the tubing from?
> &
> Did you order the tubing by the foot, or did you buy a package? On occasion people have ordered Adv LRT by the foot and were mistakenly shipped Pro LRT. Pro LRT has plasticizers issues, Adv LRT does not.
> 
> -Z
> That's a rather bold statement. It contains no DEHP plasticizers which are the ones that generally cause issues amongst soft tubing. A tubing without plasticizers is not flex tubing. Plasticizers are what make tubing flexible. I've VERY rarely seen Adv LRT have issues with plasticizers. The majority of the time I've seen people have issues with LRT is when they mistakenly used Pro LRT tubing. The only prominent issue with adv LRT is a slight discoloration issue where it gets a mild yellow/brownish tint.
> 
> -Z


It may be a bold statement, but I still stand by it - as others do posting later on in the thread. It is just a shame - plasticizer or not it spoils things.

Mark


----------



## Vindicare

ok i just ordered some stuff to go into hard tubing, let's see how it goes.

my cpu block must have this stuff inside it's better to open it and clean?

i'm changing the jet plate anyway so ill just do it.

will part 2 eliminate the rest of the plasticizer that might be in the system?


----------



## fleetfeather

As far as flux goes, what are some of the cleanest rads available?

I believe the alphacool units are pretty dirty from the factory.


----------



## VSG

From the ones I have seen, Mayhems, HWLabs, XSPC and EK. Having said that, the Aquacomputer/Watercool ones which use the round tubes are solder less.


----------



## fleetfeather

Hmm alright then. Those watercool rads are super pricy to import.

I was thinking about grabbing some XSPC EX series rads for my own build


----------



## VSG

Those are their budget rads, okay performers. The one EX rad I have actually wasn't very clean either to be honest. Look also at the HWLabs Nemesis GTS, XSPC AX or EK PE if you are limited by rad thickness.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Those are their budget rads, okay performers. The one EX rad I have actually wasn't very clean either to be honest. Look also at the HWLabs Nemesis GTS, XSPC AX or EK PE if you are limited by rad thickness.


I have the EX 360 for over 2 years and do not recall the EX ever being a "budget" reservoir. RS maybe was cheaper but the RX and EX were higher priced. I had no issues with it not being clean.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Odd. Two things:
> 
> Where did you order the tubing from?
> &
> Did you order the tubing by the foot, or did you buy a package? On occasion people have ordered Adv LRT by the foot and were mistakenly shipped Pro LRT. Pro LRT has plasticizers issues, Adv LRT does not.
> 
> -Z
> That's a rather bold statement. It contains no DEHP plasticizers which are the ones that generally cause issues amongst soft tubing. A tubing without plasticizers is not flex tubing. Plasticizers are what make tubing flexible. I've VERY rarely seen Adv LRT have issues with plasticizers. The majority of the time I've seen people have issues with LRT is when they mistakenly used Pro LRT tubing.
> 
> -Z


Think this happened to me. The "Adv LRT" from Jab Tech feels different from the Adv LRT from PPCs. The PPCs Adv LRT is way stiffer. The Jab Tech Adv LRT clouded/plasticizered too.


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Hmm alright then. Those watercool rads are super pricy to import.
> 
> I was thinking about grabbing some XSPC EX series rads for my own build


Never had problems with the 2 RX360s I've had.

You could of course order the Mayhem one.

http://www.ple.com.au/ViewItem.aspx?InventoryItemId=617054


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Think this happened to me. The "Adv LRT" from Jab Tech feels different from the Adv LRT from PPCs. The PPCs Adv LRT is way stiffer. The Jab Tech Adv LRT clouded/plasticizered too.


Sounds about right. DEHP are the plasticizers that are in most other tubings and they are the primary cause of... particle hell, I'll call it. Plasticizers are a nightmare to clean.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *error-id10t*
> 
> Never had problems with the 2 RX360s I've had.
> 
> You could of course order the Mayhem one.
> 
> http://www.ple.com.au/ViewItem.aspx?InventoryItemId=617054


Seems like that radiator has found it's way into everywhere but the U.S.









-Z


----------



## Mayhem

@ZytheEKS you can express your dissapoint direct at the resellers who have got no balls and are being blackmailed by xspc and there lies. Never the less it won't stop us







.


----------



## Vindicare

@Mayhem, i'm going to use ridig tubing, already ordered tools fittings and stuff, god help me in this because i'm a total noob, i just want my machine working :'(

ordered also concentrate X1 coolant that i'm going to use in the future.

I now have some gunk (hopefully not alot) in the system, i will open my cpu block to change the jet plate and will clean it.

What i'd like to know is will part 2 clean the rad and rest of system from plasticizer.

should i run part 1 again on the rad?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> @Mayhem, i'm going to use ridig tubing, already ordered tools fittings and stuff, god help me in this because i'm a total noob, i just want my machine working :'(
> 
> ordered also concentrate X1 coolant that i'm going to use in the future.
> 
> I now have some gunk (hopefully not alot) in the system, i will open my cpu block to change the jet plate and will clean it.
> 
> What i'd like to know is will part 2 clean the rad and rest of system from plasticizer.
> 
> should i run part 1 again on the rad?


Part 2 is a very potent surfactant, which means it breaks surface tension, fancy speak for basically being super slippery (think dish soap), and picks up particles and brings them into suspension into the liquid so when you drain they get carries out. so it should pick up any plasticizers though I wouldn't rely on it 100% for severe cases.

That being said I'm not entirely convinced your issue is plasticizers related. From my experience plasticizers won't have much, if any, effect on the coolant but instead make the tubing REALLY cloudy. It will also deposit themselves EVERYWHERE in the loop, and are a NIGHTMARE to clean off everything mind you Blitz wasn't available when I cleaned plasticizers out of mine. It looks to me the liquid iteself has somewhat of a haze. If I had to take my 2 cents I'd say part 2 found it's way into a pocket in your loop somewhere, and when you refilled it mixed in with EK and (eventually) decomposed. Just my 2 cents on the matter.

The true test will be when you open up your CPU block. If there's an incredibly resilient coating of white crap in your CPU block it's plasticizers. If there's not... Well either it's not plasticizers or it hasn't been in your loop long enough to scale. That being said, I wouldn't leave it in your loop long enough to find out. As I've said it's a nightmare to clean ones it's deposited itself.

To digress, 'very doubtful it's plasticizers, and even if it is it likely hasn't been in your loop long enough to deposit itself to a significant effect and part 2 should be able to pick any particles out from CPU blocks, rads, etc.

I hope that's somewhat helpful

-Z


----------



## electro2u

If it isn't plasticizer what else could be causing the floating particles of white in the coolant? I had same issue and the vortexing in my bay reservoir caused it to deposit thickly around the outlet port. It also seemed to like the plastic led shields at the bottom of the reservoir (monsoon premium 2). It looks like lime scale but was using distilled and liquid utopia, followed by a run with x1 UV blue. The x1 actually made chalky foam bubbles in the reservoir from whatever it was tumbling in the vortex.


----------



## Vindicare

this build has been a nightmare it first started with a broken motherboard.

Stupid me did not test the board prior to instalation.

so i flushed the system after part 2, when i saw no bubbles and stuff (flushed like 3 times or so) i filled it with ek coolant.

then i got to power the machine and nothing ... bad board.

many tests insued, and i got the board to the store where i bought it.

in the meawhile the loop stayed as it was.

after 15 days or so when i got my board back, i inspected the loop and a strange thing was happening.

the tubing was cloudy, but the reservoir was not.

strange i thought to myself.

i built the computer again and did a test run of the pump.

the minute i turned it on the cloudiness came from the tubes to the reservoir.

i then flushed everyting again and you guys know the rest of the story.

i really think something is reacting with the tubing.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Ah, this is great news. Now I can use blue coolant to cool my rocket engines without it staining my magical indestructible acrylic tubes. XD
> 
> In all seriousness great news on the dyes. Soon enough people asking "Will this stain my blocks" will be a thing of the past
> 
> -Z


Doubt it... Even with non-staining dye, people will still ask if it stains
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> That was what I was thinking was adding the silver, to the oil black, but I do not want the pearl stuff, because even on Mayhems site, it says a number of things about not being a permanent fluid, and stagnant spots might be issues, and my water block on CPU is on of the Failed blocks for that stuff, so it really isn't an option, although, I love the appearance, nothing IMHO beats the look on the market that I have seen yet.


If you do just a touch of booster, it will not look quite like Aurora yet and will have just a shimmer to it, without the swirls. This is your best bet to try to get something like the liquid metal vids.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @ZytheEKS you can express your dissapoint direct at the resellers who have got no balls and are being blackmailed by xspc and there lies. Never the less it won't stop us
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Such a shame. Thought we were past this?


----------



## Scarlet5tar

Hi guys and gals

My rig currently looks like this:


I have Mayhems Pastel white in it and after almost 2 years I'm thinking of changing coolant to Aurora 2 Silver for a change of pace.

The components of the loop are:
aqua computer Aquastream XT pump
XSPC Crossflow Radiator EX240
Phobya Xtreme 200 Radiator
EK Water Blocks EK-FC680 GTX+ - Nickel
EK Water Blocks EK-Supremacy
EK Water Blocks EK-RES X3 150 Reservoir
Koolance Flow Meter INS-FM17N
E22 Ultra Clear Acryllic Tubing

The pump is behind the res and pumps the coolant up. The flow meter is in front of the 200mm rad wrapped in cloth to dampen the weird ticking noise the reed contact makes.
The Phobya Rad worries me the most because the ports are not at the edge: Pic here
Do you think I can I run Aurora 2 let's say for a year?
Or should I just go with a less problematic coolant? In that case what do you recommend?
(I have RGB lighting, which also extends to under my glass desk, and usually have it continuously slowly looping through all colors)


Thanks in advance


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarlet5tar*
> 
> Hi guys and gals
> 
> My rig currently looks like this:
> 
> 
> I have Mayhems Pastel white in it and after almost 2 years I'm thinking of changing coolant to Aurora 2 Silver for a change of pace.
> 
> The components of the loop are:
> aqua computer Aquastream XT pump
> XSPC Crossflow Radiator EX240
> Phobya Xtreme 200 Radiator
> EK Water Blocks EK-FC680 GTX+ - Nickel
> EK Water Blocks EK-Supremacy
> EK Water Blocks EK-RES X3 150 Reservoir
> Koolance Flow Meter INS-FM17N
> E22 Ultra Clear Acryllic Tubing
> 
> The pump is behind the res and pumps the coolant up. The flow meter is in front of the 200mm rad wrapped in cloth to dampen the weird ticking noise the reed contact makes.
> The Phobya Rad worries me the most because the ports are not at the edge: Pic here
> Do you think I can I run Aurora 2 let's say for a year?
> Or should I just go with a less problematic coolant? In that case what do you recommend?
> (I have RGB lighting, which also extends to under my glass desk, and usually have it continuously slowly looping through all colors)
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance


I've lost 3 of the Koolance flow meters, locked up solid or nearly so, read way low, due to Aurora gunking them up, and they can't be cleaned out and made workable again.

Avoid Aurora and the Koolance flow meters.

Darlene


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I'm honestly not a Koolance fan so I'd suggest avoiding them altogether. I've had so many of their plated fittings flake and fail. Thanks for ruining my loops koolance.


----------



## tikurokey

Thanks for info... Thread is very informative


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> I'm honestly not a Koolance fan so I'd suggest avoiding them altogether. I've had so many of their plated fittings flake and fail. Thanks for ruining my loops koolance.


Yeah but those Koolance flow meters work rather well imho. I've been using two of them in different loops for a while now with no complaints so far, and can't say the same about the Aquacomputer one I had. They apparently aren't Aurora proof though. Then again, lots of good watercooling gear should not be used with Aurora.


----------



## pmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> I'm honestly not a Koolance fan so I'd suggest avoiding them altogether. I've had so many of their plated fittings flake and fail. Thanks for ruining my loops koolance.


Writing them off altogether, isn't quite required IMHO, there is well documented cases of their black fittings turning to poop, but they have some good quality products too, like any company, they have room for improvement.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> *If it isn't plasticizer what else could be causing the floating particles of white in the coolant?* I had same issue and the vortexing in my bay reservoir caused it to deposit thickly around the outlet port. It also seemed to like the plastic led shields at the bottom of the reservoir (monsoon premium 2). It looks like lime scale but was using distilled and liquid utopia, followed by a run with x1 UV blue. The x1 actually made chalky foam bubbles in the reservoir from whatever it was tumbling in the vortex.


Well that's the magic question there, isn't it. The way I see it there's to possibilities.

Something in the coolant is decomposing, perhaps part 2 found it's way into a pocket in the radiator and was never flushed out properly.

Or

He was given Pro LRT instead of Adv LRT and it's DEHP.

Adv LRT isn't going to do this, and DEFINITELY not do this at this rapid of a rate.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> this build has been a nightmare it first started with a broken motherboard.
> 
> Stupid me did not test the board prior to instalation.
> 
> so i flushed the system after part 2, when i saw no bubbles and stuff (flushed like 3 times or so) i filled it with ek coolant.
> 
> then i got to power the machine and nothing ... bad board.
> 
> many tests insued, and i got the board to the store where i bought it.
> 
> in the meawhile the loop stayed as it was.
> 
> after 15 days or so when i got my board back, i inspected the loop and a strange thing was happening.
> 
> the tubing was cloudy, but the reservoir was not.
> 
> strange i thought to myself.
> 
> i built the computer again and did a test run of the pump.
> 
> the minute i turned it on the cloudiness came from the tubes to the reservoir.
> 
> i then flushed everyting again and you guys know the rest of the story.
> 
> i really think something is reacting with the tubing.


Where are you located? Your best bet here is to replace the tubing. Don't buy tubing by the foot, buy it in clearly marked packaging. This isn't the first time I've seen companies sell Pro LRT in place of Adv LRT. What basically happened is Primochill discontinued Pro LRT and replaced it with Adv LRT. A LOT of retailers who perhaps weren't very knowledgeable in the hobby (computer stores who don't specialize in cooling) had a surplus of Pro LRT. You can see what happens from here.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've lost 3 of the Koolance flow meters, locked up solid or nearly so, read way low, due to Aurora gunking them up, and they can't be cleaned out and made workable again.
> 
> Avoid Aurora and the Koolance flow meters.
> 
> Darlene


Avoid Aurora with Koolance flow meters*

Aurora works fine. Koolance flow meters work fine. They just don't work fine together.









-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> Writing them off altogether, isn't quite required IMHO, there is well documented cases of their black fittings turning to poop, but they have some good quality products too, like any company, they have room for improvement.


Their flow meters work fine, it's just that they're mechanical flow meters. The Aurora particles get stuck in the turbine and block it from moving.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

I love my koolance fittings and blocks ... i really love them, so much so ive made sure they always come back when lent out for photo shoots and the like. Dont hate a product just because its incompatible with some thing thats not the fault of either companies







.


----------



## pmac

I have about 20 Koolance fittings as well, about half black straight and 90degree 1/2 5/8 size a bunch of quick disconnects, and 2 1/2 3/4 90 degree came in today black.
and a koolance custom D5 body with threaded holes for compression or custom fittings. looks really well put together. Just waiting to set it all up.I have a bunch of fittings though including abut 10 bitspower and a couple EK and acool all black. I personally had the tubing from koolance go cloudy and brownish (to be fair though, I never prepped the rad properly to discount the true source of the discoloration.), but the fluid stayed clear, and so did the reservoir.from Koolance. So I switched to Adv LRT or whatever, its called DEHP free ( in current build in progress) , assuming FrozenCPU gave me the right stuff, I should be good. But its yellow and black so I won't see the issue if it does happen anyways. (kind of was the point. Hoping Mayhems really does a great job for at least 6 months (estimated time to upgrades







)

Good night, hope everyone dreams of clear tubing and lower temps and record OC's









p

The only problem I have with 80% of my fittings is they are now the wrong size, and a bunch have paint missing on exterior, due to some stupid rookie move using pliers to tighten them not realizing hand tight compression fittings will suffice, with an adjustment to snug it in once in a while.


----------



## Lord Venom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @pmac Aurora Booster is a Concentration version of Nano Aurora. For use With X1 or Pastel.


Nice, but I have a question. When using the booster, how much does it reduce the in-system life of Pastel? A year? Two?


----------



## Mayhem

Aurora Booster again is for showcasing only so expect to last as long as it does... If you build your system around it, it will last a long time, if you dont then it wont. If you follow the aurora Guide it will help you understand -> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/guides/mayhems-aurora-guide


----------



## Bluemustang

Hey if i fill my loop with pastel ice white and want to change something in my rig in a few months can i drain the liquid into a bottle and reuse it? Obviously id rinse the bottle well with distilled first.


----------



## JimmyBoarHunter

Hi guys, long time fan, first time poster.

I've had massive issues with Advanced LRT tubing and plasticizer.
Build at the start:


3 months later:








Was using deionised water and Mayhem Extreme Biocide, nothing else. Contacted Primochill about it and they told me that using Biocides voids your warranty and too bad (didn't manage to get through all 944 pages to see if this had already been raised).

Anyone shed some light on how this could happen?


----------



## Mayhem

PT dont have a leg to stand on (from there site)

"With the use of different components, materials, fluids, and flow rates, results may vary with the appearance of your tubing. Advanced LRT is designed to work with a large variety of cooling components, however the use of alcohols, Ethylene Glycol and as well as any other harmful chemicals is strictly prohibited and will void your warranty.Tubing will stain if dyed coolants are used. PrimoChill is not responsible for any damage caused by or when using this product. Please use at your own risk."

You didn't use any EG nor alcohol. Id push for replacement tubing and also im very suss over this as there OLD LRT did this not the new advance.


----------



## Vindicare

i'm starting to think that the ek coolant was stripping the tubing.

I will see how it is today but iwth just distlled water is not cloudy.


----------



## JimmyBoarHunter

I did push for a refund and their response was "we do not recommend the use of harsh chemicals/additives such as the copper sulfate that was added. We recommend using a PrimoChill Ice or similar non harsh fluid to protect your components.







" (he even had the nerve to throw me a sad face)

Aren't biocides the most common additive?? Yet they never mention it anywhere that they void your warranty. Apparently only Certified Primochill fluids or unicorn tears are acceptable.

I've redone the loop with the remaining tubing, this time using distilled water and silver. I'll be intrigued to see if it happens again. If so then it's definitely the tubing.


----------



## tipes

If LRT tubing does this - what hope is there for tubing that does not go cloudy? I am not sure that LRT does what it claims to - unless I also fell foul of having some of the old style tubing supplied as LRT. I am currently using xspc tubing, but this also has the problem of leeching/clouding it would appear.

What gives?

Mark


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyBoarHunter*
> 
> I did push for a refund and their response was "we do not recommend the use of harsh chemicals/additives such as the copper sulfate that was added. We recommend using a PrimoChill Ice or similar non harsh fluid to protect your components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> " (he even had the nerve to throw me a sad face)
> 
> Aren't biocides the most common additive?? Yet they never mention it anywhere that they void your warranty. Apparently only Certified Primochill fluids or unicorn tears are acceptable.
> 
> I've redone the loop with the remaining tubing, this time using distilled water and silver. I'll be intrigued to see if it happens again. If so then it's definitely the tubing.


We await your findings - but I suspect you are correct about the tubing being the problem all along. I must say I find the attitude of Primochill to be at least non caring. I would have expected a better response - if they truly believed there product lives up to claims.

Mark


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Hey if i fill my loop with pastel ice white and want to change something in my rig in a few months can i drain the liquid into a bottle and reuse it? Obviously id rinse the bottle well with distilled first.


Yep you can. It's recommended that you run it through a coffee filter after draining and store in a cool dark place until you reuse.


----------



## Mayhem

I for one have never been satisfied with tubing on the market. I am going to look into have some DEHP Free, Phthalate Free real ROHS compliant tubing samples made up for us (made in the UK under UK regulations) for testing. Fed up with seeing all the problems with crap cheap tubing. The market place is awash with stuff not made for closed loop water cooling. Time for another change. We can see how this goes.


----------



## Vindicare

@Mayhem clearly there are no rules and no standards, it's not the first time i get into water cooling and allways with failure because of tubing or incompatible metals in the loop.

It's allways up to the user by experience trial and error to resolve these situations. Now i understand why some builders use allways the same components on the builds they do.

It's refreshing to see a brand concerned with this problem, having tubing that won't accept biocizers or in my case getting stipped by a brand name coolant is ridiculous.

Clearly these products are not being tested with eatchother.

Mayhems keep up the good work, god willing i will migrate to rigid tubing and get rid of this mess, but there are other people, people starting into water cooling and hitting all these brick walls.

It's very frustating having a new build, or even an old one converted to wc and not being able to use it because of these kind of problems, not to mention all the work involved into dissassembling everyting again etc.


----------



## Mayhem

Ive already been in talks with a UK manufacturer and were getting some samples made up and shipped to us. We can move forwards quite quickly on this due to our past tests and experiments.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyBoarHunter*
> 
> I did push for a refund and their response was "we do not recommend the use of harsh chemicals/additives such as the copper sulfate that was added. We recommend using a PrimoChill Ice or similar non harsh fluid to protect your components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> " (he even had the nerve to throw me a sad face)
> 
> Aren't biocides the most common additive?? Yet they never mention it anywhere that they void your warranty. Apparently only Certified Primochill fluids or unicorn tears are acceptable.
> 
> I've redone the loop with the remaining tubing, this time using distilled water and silver. I'll be intrigued to see if it happens again. If so then it's definitely the tubing.


That's... deplorable. Obviously a phony guise to get you to use their coolants. It wouldn't be that bad if their coolants were actually worth using. A lot of companies do things like this in their warranties, but I've used primochill's coolants and they're a bucket of snake oil and shattered dreams. After 6 months of use the coolant was... rather cloudy. *sigh* Sorry to hear that mate.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I for one have never been satisfied with tubing on the market. I am going to look into have some DEHP Free, Phthalate Free real ROHS compliant tubing samples made up for us (made in the UK under UK regulations) for testing. Fed up with seeing all the problems with crap cheap tubing. The market place is awash with stuff not made for closed loop water cooling. Time for another change. We can see how this goes.


Time for another product to the Mayhems line I guess?









-Z


----------



## Vindicare

yhea ... i also did some research prior to the build.

from EK faq:

"As an alternative to EK-Tube ZMT type tubing EK Water Blocks recommends Primochill LRT Advanced series tubing, a market proven PVC tubing which does not suffer from plasticizer leaching."

http://www.ekwb.com/support/index.php?act=article&code=view&id=25

so i did buy the coolant and tube based on this recomendation.

granted i did not buy the tubing from them, and i'm not even shure its advanced LRT (no markings just a plastic bag).

they also sell this tubing in the online shop.

in my case the ek coolant strips the tubing inside, i dont think its plasticizer btw.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ive already been in talks with a UK manufacturer and were getting some samples made up and shipped to us. We can move forwards quite quickly on this due to our past tests and experiments.


Hey Mike - we need another ground breaking product from Mayhems. Hope you and your contacts/associates can come up with something to put an end to this tubing nightmare. I would go hardline tubing and forget it - but it is not easy or user friendly like flexible tubing. Here is hoping you come up with a solution.

Mark

Ps thanks for accepting me on LinkedIn.


----------



## fleetfeather

Mayhems matte black rubber tubing please. Tygon norprene is impossible to find in stock in AU


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Id push for replacement tubing and also im very suss over this as there OLD LRT did this not the new advance.


Oh hell, is that why the PRO LRT is on sale for $1 a foot and the ADVANCED LRT is still $2.50 a foot at Performance-PCs?


----------



## stealth80

Mayhems Blood red after the original build :

http://s11.photobucket.com/user/leekirlew/media/PC Stuff/IMG_0562_zpsa7e85b26.jpg.html

Mayhems Pastel Red after Xmas overhaul:

http://s11.photobucket.com/user/leekirlew/media/PC Stuff/IMG_0642_zpsa76e7c9c.jpg.html


----------



## Mayhem

In he Uk you should see the price of Primochill advance LRT its £8.50 a meter .... thats $12.89 (usa) per meter ..............

Any way im going to check over the new "DEHT" not DEHP tubing, this will be Phthalate Free (the crap that can cause some of the issues, but its not all down to just that product alone) . All flexible tubing still has plasticizer in it as such, so really it is incorrect to call it "plasticizer free" because "No flexible tubing is 100% plasticizer Free". The smooth wall action is what we need and as for the crystal clear look, well thats easy to create just turn up the heat on production and it creates a clear wall how ever you need to be careful the hotter it goes the worse the product may react to chemicals.

As for the warranty on PC web site reference there tubing, sorry you have rights and they cannot remove them as proven in many court cases around the world. If they sell you tubing for a closed water cooling system then it should work for in a closed water cooling system using chemicals. There is no such thing as harsh chemicals. I dare for PC to define what they consider harsh chemicals ..... Is a harsh chemical one that spews foul language at you and beat you up in a Stewie Griffin type manner.




Now thats harsh ......

Lets see were we can go from here, i know what i would like to see so lets see if we can replicate it in real life.

ON TO ANOTHER SUBJECT

Mayhems Blitz Pro Kits are going to be upgraded and yet keep the same price. How are we doing this well due to us expanding more we've acquired more contacts and this has allowed us to negotiate better deals... such as the new PH meter we are now getting has a screwless auto calibration control on them helping get an even more accurate reading, Also they have a much sharper better sensor fo PH reading and last but not least more accurate auto temperature adjust.

Were also going to be upgrading the goggles so they have indirect venting and anti mist making them even better.

We are also pricing up and looking at a "Mayhems Blit Kit" mid range were we strip out some of the products such as PH meter, calibration packs so that it will reduce the price a little more (there isnt much room for movement on prices but we can try).

All this is being implemented as i type this but will take time to roll out as stock needs to go out first and we will add the new products into the kits.


----------



## electro2u

Mid range blitz kit is great! I feel a bit bad for tossing the extra pH meter and goggles on my second blitz pro. Don't care much about pricing it's better for the environment to have less waste.


----------



## Animag771

If I get Mayhems Pastel Red 250mL concentrate, does it *HAVE* to be mixed 250mL concentrate to 750mL DI? What I am getting at here is I want it to be darker but don't want to use dyes cause they will stain my tubing, would mixing it with less DI make it darker? Would it be safe to do it like that?

On another hand if you come out with those non-staining dyes soon, I would definitely run that ! Unless you want to throw a sample my way *wink wink*


----------



## MrGrievous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animag771*
> 
> If I get Mayhems Pastel Red 250mL concentrate, does it *HAVE* to be mixed 250mL concentrate to 750mL DI? What I am getting at here is I want it to be darker but don't want to use dyes cause they will stain my tubing, would mixing it with less DI make it darker? Would it be safe to do it like that?
> 
> On another hand if you come out with those non-staining dyes soon, I would definitely run that ! Unless you want to throw a sample my way *wink wink*


Well first off red will just plain stain anything, no preventing that from happening and I would not recommend running the system with nothing but the concentrate. The concentrate is just that a concentrate that is made to be diluted running it as is would also be pretty pricey as you'll most likely have to get 4-5 bottles. Now I'm not exactly sure what will happen if one ran just the concentrate in the system but I can say it is a bad idea.


----------



## Mayhem

you can run it with less water how ever it will be more wareing on your pump and this OFC is never a good thing. Even when we release the none staining liquids it will still seep into tubing. This wont stain the tubing but will seep into it due to the make up of tubing as it porous and this can never be avoided (well not atm anyway), It will not stain blocks and the like unless there prous. With none staining dye what will happen is if you spill it on you carpet or clothing it will not stay then when you wash it off and it wont stain your blocks ect ect.

The none staining action is not 100% perfect and some stuff is still susceptible to staining but the makeup of the dye and the products used to stop it dye aid in its easy removal. Its not a be all and end all product im afraid to say but is another step forward.


----------



## Animag771

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> Well first off red will just plain stain anything, no preventing that from happening and I would not recommend running the system with nothing but the concentrate. The concentrate is just that a concentrate that is made to be diluted running it as is would also be pretty pricey as you'll most likely have to get 4-5 bottles. Now I'm not exactly sure what will happen if one ran just the concentrate in the system but I can say it is a bad idea.


The way I understand it Pastel is the least prone to staining and since I will be running PETG tubing, I don't think staining would be a problem unless I use dyes with it. That's why I am trying to avoid dyes (unless they wont stain) I think I may not have been clear in my question. I was only wondering about using *LESS* DI with the concentrate, not running just the concentrate alone.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> you can run it with less water how ever it will be more wareing on your pump and this OFC is never a good thing. Even when we release the none staining liquids it will still seep into tubing. This wont stain the tubing but will seep into it due to the make up of tubing as it porous and this can never be avoided (well not atm anyway), It will not stain blocks and the like unless there prous. With none staining dye what will happen is if you spill it on you carpet or clothing it will not stay then when you wash it off and it wont stain your blocks ect ect.
> 
> The none staining action is not 100% perfect and some stuff is still susceptible to staining but the makeup of the dye and the products used to stop it dye aid in its easy removal. Its not a be all and end all product im afraid to say but is another step forward.


I will be using PETG hardline tubing in my loop. Have the non-staining dyes been tested on PETG yet? I don't believe PETG is porous, so I don't think it would have the same seeping affect on it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

PETG is slightly hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture, the same property flexible tubing has that leads to water evaporating through the tubing and staining, however in the brief time since PETG has started becoming popular as a rigid tubing choice I'm unaware of anyone who has complained of staining when running dyes. Several who have ran dyes of various colors in petg for 6 months or more have said in the Acrylic pipebending 101 and Watercooling Club threads that they have not noticed any staining at all. By this point it's probably safe to assume that petg is less prone to staining than flexible tubing and may not be prone to staining at all. Only more time will tell.

Use acrylic tubing instead if you want to be more reassured than that that your dyes / coolants won't stain.


----------



## Animag771

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> PETG is slightly hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture, the same property flexible tubing has that leads to water evaporating through the tubing and staining, however in the brief time since PETG has started becoming popular as a rigid tubing choice I'm unaware of anyone who has complained of staining when running dyes. Several who have ran dyes of various colors in petg for 6 months or more have said in the Acrylic pipebending 101 and Watercooling Club threads that they have not noticed any staining at all. By this point it's probably safe to assume that petg is less prone to staining than flexible tubing and may not be prone to staining at all. Only more time will tell.
> 
> Use acrylic tubing instead if you want to be more reassured than that that your dyes / coolants won't stain.


Awesome, thanks. As for the Acrylic though... I have already received the PETG, so I will be sticking with that. Good to know it's pretty resistant to staining.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animag771*
> 
> If I get Mayhems Pastel Red 250mL concentrate, does it *HAVE* to be mixed 250mL concentrate to 750mL DI? What I am getting at here is I want it to be darker but don't want to use dyes cause they will stain my tubing, would mixing it with less DI make it darker? Would it be safe to do it like that?
> 
> On another hand if you come out with those non-staining dyes soon, I would definitely run that ! Unless you want to throw a sample my way *wink wink*


It seems you have a couple misconceptions about Pastel, so let me try to clear it up.

Pastel is white, period. Red Pastel is Pastel Ice White with dyes added from the factory. Dye dyes things, that's what it does. (Other than Mayhems unreleased non stain dyes of course) Using higher concentrations of pastel is very ill advised. Now, on to tubing. Tubing is typically the most likely thing to stain. This is because flex tubing dries out, and becomes less flexible, except it doesn't because it absorbs moisture from the loop. Now if your coolant is dyed (insert colour here) guess what's being absorbed into the tubing? Acrylic, is the only transparent tubing/pipe I'm aware of that does not absorb moisture. Staining, IMHO is VASTLY over-exaggerated, over the timeframe of a year or two you can expect a very slight tint. I hope this little bit of info has helped clear some stuff up.

-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I for one have never been satisfied with tubing on the market. I am going to look into have some DEHP Free, Phthalate Free real ROHS compliant tubing samples made up for us (made in the UK under UK regulations) for testing. Fed up with seeing all the problems with crap cheap tubing. The market place is awash with stuff not made for closed loop water cooling. Time for another change. We can see how this goes.


I had a feeling this was coming









I honestly thought this would happen before the rads, lol. Exciting to hear though


----------



## Animag771

@ZytheEKS

Ah ok, I did not realize that all of the pastels were white that just have dye added. Lots of info on the net and a lot of it isn't accurate.

So, I have seen people making their own colors with the white+dye like with the blood red. It confused me because it seemed to me that if you wanted blood red you could just get the pastel red and add red dye, so why bother with white as a starting point and wasting so much more dye?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animag771*
> 
> @ZytheEKS
> 
> Ah ok, I did not realize that all of the pastels were white that just have dye added. Lots of info on the net and a lot of it isn't accurate.
> 
> So, I have seen people making their own colors with the white+dye like with the blood red. It confused me because it seemed to me that if you wanted blood red you could just get the pastel red and add red dye, so why bother with white as a starting point and wasting so much more dye?


You just get a lot more control using white to start. Depending on what color people are trying to get, I often recommend starting with an already dyed pastel


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animag771*
> 
> @ZytheEKS
> 
> Ah ok, I did not realize that all of the pastels were white that just have dye added. Lots of info on the net and a lot of it isn't accurate.
> 
> So, I have seen people making their own colors with the white+dye like with the blood red. It confused me because it seemed to me that if you wanted blood red you could just get the pastel red and add red dye, so why bother with white as a starting point and wasting so much more dye?


Because a LOT of colours are simply unobtainable without a white base. Moreover it gives you MUCH more control, and it's much easier to obtained the desired colour. You don't know how much dye is put into the predyed ones. An example: You need three drops blue to two drops of red to get a specific purple. You start with red pastel. Well... what's your ratio there? You'd just have to play it by ear, while with white, you can know your ratios. So if you're trying to match the coolant to a mobo, or the colour of sleeving, or anything specific, then stick with white and dyes. If you just want red because it'll look cool in you build, then predyed are fine. Keep in mind it's worth asking in here what dyes to use to achieve a specific colour. Cyphon is are resident pastel expert for dying, I'm pretty decent and transparent coolants (x1, XT1, etc.) and of course Mick (Mayhems) knows it all. Some of the predyed coolants are actually predyed to match certain industry colours already, for example orange is made to match gigabyte orange.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Havoc Radiator in the new Custom PC mag this month

Quote " Interestingly, despite being a full sized radiator, it costs just £50, with competitors such as XSPC's RX240 and Hardware Labs' Black Ice Nemesis GTX 240 retailing for at least 20 per cent more"

Oh the joy ....


----------



## ElCid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I for one have never been satisfied with tubing on the market. I am going to look into have some DEHP Free, Phthalate Free real ROHS compliant tubing samples made up for us (made in the UK under UK regulations) for testing. Fed up with seeing all the problems with crap cheap tubing. The market place is awash with stuff not made for closed loop water cooling. Time for another change. We can see how this goes.
























Praying for it!!!


----------



## Mr Brothers

i have a Pastel Red Concentrate extra, how long can i store it before its outdated?

The only date i can find is 17.05.2014. i really hope its the production date.


----------



## Animag771

@ZytheEKS

Trying to match the color red on my ASRock X79 Fatal!ty Pro. I have already ordered a bottle of 250mL Pastel Red Concentrate. In the pics it looks close, hopefully it is right. I can always make it darker, but if its already too dark I guess I'll have to swap it for some white.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Brothers*
> 
> i have a Pastel Red Concentrate extra, how long can i store it before its outdated?
> 
> The only date i can find is 17.05.2014. i really hope its the production date.


It can be stored for two to three years if memory serves.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animag771*
> 
> @ZytheEKS
> 
> Trying to match the color red on my ASRock X79 Fatal!ty Pro. I have already ordered a bottle of 250mL Pastel Red Concentrate. In the pics it looks close, hopefully it is right. I can always make it darker, but if its already too dark I guess I'll have to swap it for some white.


Use blue to darken red. Very slowly I might add. More red dye won't darken it, at least not very well.

-Z


----------



## DNMock

You guys should just go full out on it Mick, Mayhems fittings, Mayhems Pumps, Mayhems Reservoirs, Mayhems fans, Mayhems waterblocks....

Probably make more than a few folks around here happy as can be.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> You guys should just go full out on it Mick, Mayhems fittings, Mayhems Pumps, Mayhems Reservoirs, Mayhems fans, Mayhems waterblocks....
> 
> Probably make more than a few folks around here happy as can be.


Mayhems Boats, Mayhems Trucks, Mayhems MBTs, Mayhems F/A class strike fighter jets.









But all that requires years of R&D. We all know how long A2 took, and that was refining an already made product. Building new ones from the ground up takes time and money, and in reality it's all a matter of how fast they can turn a profit and how much that profit is. They make good stuff, that's for sure, but that's because they put the time and effort into actually making it good.

-Z


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Mayhems Boats, Mayhems Trucks, Mayhems MBTs, Mayhems F/A class strike fighter jets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all that requires years of R&D. We all know how long A2 took, and that was refining an already made product. Building new ones from the ground up takes time and money, and in reality it's all a matter of how fast they can turn a profit and how much that profit is. They make good stuff, that's for sure, but that's because they put the time and effort into actually making it good.
> 
> -Z


Obviously, but that doesn't mean we don't want it









I'd totally buy a Mayhem's 3/4th ton 4x4 truck. No worries of it overheating on those mid summer long hauls.


----------



## DarthBaggins

So I'm thinking while my rig is down, I want to swap the fluid out to Pastel. Now I've used mayhems' dyes in my loop previously, should I go w/ p1 &2 or can I just go w/ part two since I don't plan on swapping out rads just yet?


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> You guys should just go full out on it Mick, Mayhems fittings, Mayhems Pumps, Mayhems Reservoirs, Mayhems fans, Mayhems waterblocks....
> 
> Probably make more than a few folks around here happy as can be.


Yeah we need more top quality stuff , with good QC , my first XSPC RX 360 rad was good , my second EX 280 needed grinding down on the fan mount outer casing and all the fan mount holes needed crushing with large clamps to get the fan mount holes back to square , they were so far out i could not get the fans on or mount the rad.

I would like to see a full range of products from Mathems , as there is great customer service , and what we see so far looks great.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Havoc Radiator in the new Custom PC mag this month
> 
> Quote " Interestingly, despite being a full sized radiator, it costs just £50, with competitors such as XSPC's RX240 and Hardware Labs' Black Ice Nemesis GTX 240 retailing for at least 20 per cent more"
> 
> Oh the joy ....


Depends on the location really. The mayhems radiators unfortunately aren't really competitively priced in AU


----------



## Mayhem

We are priced well and at the right level when there is no middle man how ever add in middle men and price goes up. If anything our rads are cheap .....

"Some" other rad makers are making cheap ass rads and selling them as HQ. We have been testing some of these new slim line rads and even though they look nice there of abysmal quality and they bend in your hand (W*F is going on there)... There is cheap and then there is just taking the piss, behind the good looks is a cost cutting exercise on a massive scale to get the price down. These are then passed onto bad reviewers who are happy just to get stuff for free and then advertise it like its the best new thing which it is not, just to get it into your hands. Gold awards are a plentiful when you have enough money to spend.

Thats water cooling now a days for you and you are paying the price for it... Stick with decent bands and help them evolve. At the end of the day you pay for what you get and you get what you pay for. We just use word of mouth and we have no need for awards all though it nice to get them from reputable reviewers. Our best advertising is you guys !!! simples. ....


----------



## cyphon

Yeah... I for the most part only buy from those that are noticeably active in the forums too (most notably: Mayhems, EK, case-labs, swiftech). They are a part of the community not just selling to the community.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah... I for the most part only buy from those that are noticeably active in the forums too (most notably: Mayhems, EK, case-labs, swiftech). They are a part of the community not just selling to the community.


Or they invest money into PR department.


----------



## madmalkav

I finally got the pieces I missed to start building my loop.

I just prefilled with water my two rads to measure capacity, Phobya 480 V2 was easy as hell to fill and empty, but to empty TFC Admiral 360 I had to blow air on one of the holes so the liquid get out from the other. I'm not filling too much like blowing air with my mouth when the rad is full of acid from blitz part 1, any other recomendations on how to empty it?

Also, PH Meter, I should use it after Part 2 and 2 - 3 cleanings with distilled water to see the PH this distilled water have, before filling with pastel, right?


----------



## DarthBaggins

@Mayhem
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So I'm thinking while my rig is down, I want to swap the fluid out to Pastel. Now I've used mayhems' dyes in my loop previously, should I go w/ p1 &2 or can I just go w/ part two since I don't plan on swapping out rads just yet?


...sorry to repost but it was getting lost in the convo


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Or they invest money into PR department.


Well of course, but you look at the guys that are active and it's more than PR, promotion, and support. A lot of them have been around for years, doing build logs, and are normal posters as well


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> @Mayhem
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So I'm thinking while my rig is down, I want to swap the fluid out to Pastel. Now I've used mayhems' dyes in my loop previously, should I go w/ p1 &2 or can I just go w/ part two since I don't plan on swapping out rads just yet?
> 
> 
> 
> ...sorry to repost but it was getting lost in the convo
Click to expand...

Part 2 will be fine but as per the norm part one will clean the rads better.

BTW im a normal poster but not on here and i keep my private name separate from this.

@madmalkav The PH meter is for use when you completed and before so you can see the difference and also for the long term use to keep your system in check.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Part 2 will be fine but as per the norm part one will clean the rads better.


Ok guess I'll go ahead an snag a pro kit anyway







debating on adding an ex360 read into my loop to replace one of my 240's (already have the 360 snagged used for a primo Price)


----------



## madmalkav

One more question: I got the TFC Admiral 360 free from a promotion and until now I didn't stopped to read the characteristics, I assumed it would be copper but is stainless steel. Should I still use Blitz part 1 on it, can I use it in without problems with my other loop parts that are copper, will it be a problem with the Pastel coolant, ...? Lot of doubts, never heard of a radiator with SS tubes.


----------



## Mayhem

SS will be fine how ever only need 1/2 the time of copper.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I don't think there's anything in a TFC Admiral rad that would need Blitzing with part 1. It's not full of solder and flux like a copper rad.


----------



## Ovrclck

.


----------



## ozzy1925

i have 2x480m ut 60 480mm and 1x ut 60 240mm alphacool radiators .I read we can reuse the part 1 and It says on my manual leave part 1 in the radiator between 6-12 hours but 1 liter will only be enough for my 2x480mms and if i leave part 1 for 12 hours for the first time I need to reuse it for my 240mm radiator.This time how much time i should leave in the radiator?Thanks.


----------



## marshymellows

I just built my first loop(2 weeks ago) and The system is running great







im just wondering how often i need to change the coolent/clean the loop? Im using mayhem pastel green(Great looking coolent!)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> I just built my first loop(2 weeks ago) and The system is running great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im just wondering how often i need to change the coolent/clean the loop? Im using mayhem pastel green(Great looking coolent!)


For pastel? Every two to three years.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Im happy to announce that All Mayhems Blitz Kits will getting an upgrade. We are moving over to these safety goggles that have an Indirect vent (IDV) giving much better protection from chemical splash and dust to the end user. This will not impact on the overall price of the blitz kits as we have used our buying power to keep the price low enough to stop this from happening.



We are all so looking into and testing some spiffingly good looking safety eyewear for modders and gamers alike. They are not expensive and looks kind of cool in the Mayhem way (meaning there loud in every manner possible).


----------



## VSG

Mick, is there someone who sells these internationally? I do need some for a specific lab where it gets humid and hot so I want to try out the vent system here. I don't need it to be impact resistant for that particular lab.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mick, is there someone who sells these internationally? I do need some for a specific lab where it gets humid and hot so I want to try out the vent system here. I don't need it to be impact resistant for that particular lab.


Perhaps ...
http://www.amazon.com/2235R-Safety-Indirect-Chemical-Anti-fog/dp/B00065UL7G/
or
http://www.amazon.com/AOSafety-Flexible-Chemical-Polycarbonate-Anit-Fog/dp/B009EGES5E/


----------



## VSG

Those did nothing unfortunately, I still have the second one somewhere I think. Perhaps a passive vent isn't enough.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mick, is there someone who sells these internationally? I do need some for a specific lab where it gets humid and hot so I want to try out the vent system here. I don't need it to be impact resistant for that particular lab.


GG, getting goggles for your weed plantation


----------



## VSG

Gotta be safe, especially when high!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> GG, getting goggles for your weed plantation


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Gotta be safe, especially when high!


Weed + science? Do you want Jurassic Park? Because that's how you get Jurassic Park.

-Z


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Do you want Jurassic Park? Because that's how you get Jurassic Park.
> 
> -Z


No.


Spoiler: That's how Jurassic Park gets you!


----------



## VSG

Lol


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> No.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: That's how Jurassic Park gets you!




I think we've derailed this enough, for now at least. XD Back to on topic stuff.

Is there any ETA on the stainless dyes, or is it another "It'll be ready when it's ready" kinda things?

-Z


----------



## SynchroSCP

Good morning, just finished converting my build to acrylic yesterday and I'm looking for suggestions as to what coolant and dye combo would give the effect I'm looking for. The EK uv blue is not quite what I'm looking for, it was with soft tubing but it's a little much with acrylic - kinda head shop lor carnival looking. I'd like a medium blue close to the cabling color with a soft uv effect. I'm thinking about going to mayhems pastel uv white and adding blue dye to get the medium blue color and a much softer uv effect. I also want to get away from the clear type coolant and go with something opaque as the pastel line is.

Added some pics to the build log of my rig with acrylic if that helps. Thanks!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Good morning, just finished converting my build to acrylic yesterday and I'm looking for suggestions as to what coolant and dye combo would give the effect I'm looking for. The EK uv blue is not quite what I'm looking for, it was with soft tubing but it's a little much with acrylic - kinda head shop lor carnival looking. I'd like a medium blue close to the cabling color with a soft uv effect. I'm thinking about going to mayhems pastel uv white and adding blue dye to get the medium blue color and a much softer uv effect. I also want to get away from the clear type coolant and go with something opaque as the pastel line is.
> 
> Added some pics to the build log of my rig with acrylic if that helps. Thanks!


Pretty sure you are going about this correctly. Using the dye will give you control over the depth of blue. If you want to make it more towards purpleish (as the cabling from the photos anyway looks almost purple to me) you would add some red to it as well.

@MAYHEM
I checked out the Mayhems website and the flash slideshow of featured builds on the front page is scaled funny:


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Pretty sure you are going about this correctly. Using the dye will give you control over the depth of blue. If you want to make it more towards purpleish (as the cabling from the photos anyway looks almost purple to me) you would add some red to it as well.


Thanks for the response, the psu cables are blue, the UV lighting is throwing the color off in the rig. That's parts of the problem, I use the Darkside UV light strips on a fan header and have to crank them all the way up to get the UV blue lit up well. With the soft tubing I could set the UV lighting to about 50% and that was enough to make the UV blue stand out but not so extreme. Watching some youtube vids and reviews on here I think the pastel UV white and blue dye is the way too go. Will proceed with that then, thx!


----------



## Winrahr

Hello. I've just filled my loop with Mayhem's Pastel Purple and it turns out much darker than I expected, showing up pretty much blue in pictures. What can I do to make it much lighter and brighter? Would mixing it with pastel white help?

Looks like this:


I want it like this:


----------



## emsj86




----------



## yousif666

Does Mayhem pastel blue or Mayhem dye stain on rigid tubing?? for example if after a while i wanted to change the color will i have to change all the rigid tubing or i can just flush it and add another color? and i am referring the dye and pastel.

Thanks.


----------



## Ovrclck

Flushing out part 2 with tap. I went through 3 gallons of distilled and realized I had the sink attachment. Why didn't I start with this from the beginning?


















Sent from cellular device.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> Hello. I've just filled my loop with Mayhem's Pastel Purple and it turns out much darker than I expected, showing up pretty much blue in pictures. What can I do to make it much lighter and brighter? Would mixing it with pastel white help?
> 
> Looks like this:
> 
> 
> I want it like this:


Iirc snef used stock pastel purple on that build. It could be lighting? I know he had some purple led.

He also uses a really nice camera which can make a huge difference

It's pretty hard to lighten fluid. If you're going to buy white, instead of mixing it, get purple dye and just dye it to your color you want. If you're OK with the darkness, and just want it less on the blue side, you can add a touch of red


----------



## emsj86

The pastel does not stain the rigid tubing


----------



## Winrahr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Iirc snef used stock pastel purple on that build. It could be lighting? I know he had some purple led.
> 
> He also uses a really nice camera which can make a huge difference
> 
> It's pretty hard to lighten fluid. If you're going to buy white, instead of mixing it, get purple dye and just dye it to your color you want. If you're OK with the darkness, and just want it less on the blue side, you can add a touch of red


That's why it's confusing why his looks really different from mine. Our sleeving color is similar but mine even in person has a huge difference in color between my fluid and my sleeving. The purple in the picture is definitely off but it isn't actually that far off from in person. Even in sunlight it doesn't have the milky tone Snef's has.

The reason I want to mix the pastels instead of dying it is because I don't want to waste the purple (which is premixed, if it makes a difference)I currently have.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> That's why it's confusing why his looks really different from mine. Our sleeving color is similar but mine even in person has a huge difference in color between my fluid and my sleeving. The purple in the picture is definitely off but it isn't actually that far off from in person. Even in sunlight it doesn't have the milky tone Snef's has.
> 
> The reason I want to mix the pastels instead of dying it is because I don't want to waste the purple (which is premixed, if it makes a difference)I currently have.


You have alphacool radiators in your build if i'm not mistaken.

Even after a really intensive flushing session those rads and the Phobya ones have a tendancy to mess the color of pastel









This is one of the main reason Mayhems created Blitz.

Here's my pastel raspberry purple in my main rig. After several months it's still the same shade of purple which is basically on par with what Snef has.

P.S. : This rig isn't on Alphacool Rads


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Good morning, just finished converting my build to acrylic yesterday and I'm looking for suggestions as to what coolant and dye combo would give the effect I'm looking for. The EK uv blue is not quite what I'm looking for, it was with soft tubing but it's a little much with acrylic - kinda head shop lor carnival looking. I'd like a medium blue close to the cabling color with a soft uv effect. I'm thinking about going to mayhems pastel uv white and adding blue dye to get the medium blue color and a much softer uv effect. I also want to get away from the clear type coolant and go with something opaque as the pastel line is.
> 
> Added some pics to the build log of my rig with acrylic if that helps. Thanks!


The correct blue will be easy enough to get, it might be tough to get a "soft UV effect" with UV blue. The Blue UV effects really glow.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Thanks for the response, the psu cables are blue, the UV lighting is throwing the color off in the rig. That's parts of the problem, I use the Darkside UV light strips on a fan header and have to crank them all the way up to get the UV blue lit up well. With the soft tubing I could set the UV lighting to about 50% and that was enough to make the UV blue stand out but not so extreme. Watching some youtube vids and reviews on here I think the pastel UV white and blue dye is the way too go. Will proceed with that then, thx!


Switch to Cathodes if possible. UV LEDs are only around 8% efficient at producing UV light. That means the other 92% is either blue or purple light, and heat. This is going to give you pretty wimpy UV effects and make everything in your loop purple/blue.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> Hello. I've just filled my loop with Mayhem's Pastel Purple and it turns out much darker than I expected, showing up pretty much blue in pictures. What can I do to make it much lighter and brighter? Would mixing it with pastel white help?
> 
> Looks like this:
> 
> 
> I want it like this:


I doubt you could make it "lighter" so to speak, but you could make it purpler. Try adding some red dye.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yousif666*
> 
> Does Mayhem pastel blue or Mayhem dye stain on rigid tubing?? for example if after a while i wanted to change the color will i have to change all the rigid tubing or i can just flush it and add another color? and i am referring the dye and pastel.
> 
> Thanks.


Dye dyes things, that's what it does. Yes it will over a LONG period of time. With acrylic you likely won't notice any tint for years. With PETG you may notice it dye slightly faster. Staining is VASTLY over-exaggerated IMHO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> That's why it's confusing why his looks really different from mine. Our sleeving color is similar but mine even in person has a huge difference in color between my fluid and my sleeving. The purple in the picture is definitely off but it isn't actually that far off from in person. Even in sunlight it doesn't have the milky tone Snef's has.
> 
> The reason I want to mix the pastels instead of dying it is because I don't want to waste the purple (which is premixed, if it makes a difference)I currently have.


What radiators did you use, and did you use the Blitz cleaning system on them? Because this vvv

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You have alphacool radiators in your build if i'm not mistaken.
> 
> Even after a really intensive flushing session those rads and the Phobya ones have a tendancy to mess the color of pastel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the main reason Mayhems created Blitz.
> 
> Here's my pastel raspberry purple in my main rig. After several months it's still the same shade of purple which is basically on par with what Snef has.
> 
> P.S. : This rig isn't on Alphacool Rads


I'm diggin' the Alexstrasza figure, all it's missing is Green Jesus.

-Z


----------



## Winrahr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You have alphacool radiators in your build if i'm not mistaken.
> 
> Even after a really intensive flushing session those rads and the Phobya ones have a tendancy to mess the color of pastel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the main reason Mayhems created Blitz.
> 
> Here's my pastel raspberry purple in my main rig. After several months it's still the same shade of purple which is basically on par with what Snef has.
> 
> P.S. : This rig isn't on Alphacool Rads


It's not the rads. It's been the same color as when it just came out of the bottle. Could mine just be a bad batch? Was yours premix or concentrate?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> It's not the rads. It's been the same color as when it just came out of the bottle. Could mine just be a bad batch? Was yours premix or concentrate?


Did you use a premix or a concentrate?

-Z


----------



## Winrahr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Did you use a premix or a concentrate?
> 
> -Z


Premix


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winrahr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You have alphacool radiators in your build if i'm not mistaken.
> 
> Even after a really intensive flushing session those rads and the Phobya ones have a tendancy to mess the color of pastel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the main reason Mayhems created Blitz.
> 
> Here's my pastel raspberry purple in my main rig. After several months it's still the same shade of purple which is basically on par with what Snef has.
> 
> P.S. : This rig isn't on Alphacool Rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not the rads. It's been the same color as when it just came out of the bottle. Could mine just be a bad batch? Was yours premix or concentrate?
Click to expand...

Did you shake the bottle well before use, if not then yeh it will look darker. You can add some Pastel Ice white concentrate and that will lighten it off (just only add about 1/4 to 1/2 bottle max).


----------



## Bluemustang

Don't suppose you'd know when PPCS will get more blitz pro kits in stock mayhems? I'm about ready to drop my big order to finish off the rest of my water cooling build but can't do so without the blitz pro kit. Both ppcs and fcpu are out of stock but id prefer to keep it all on ppcs for shipping purposes (and i got some store credit on ppcs).


----------



## Winrahr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Did you shake the bottle well before use, if not then yeh it will look darker. You can add some Pastel Ice white concentrate and that will lighten it off (just only add about 1/4 to 1/2 bottle max).


Hm I didn't know that I had to shake it. If I drained it now and shake it would it become lighter?
Do I just add the concentrate straight to the mix or do I dilute it first?


----------



## Mayhem

@Bluemustang You'll need to speak to PPC ref when they will get stock in as i don't get involved in that side of the business unless i really need to..

@Winrahr Yup its a Nano fluid it would need shaking to mix all the nanoparticles about. You could add at least 1/2 of it without diluting after you have shaken the bottle all it means is that you will have ultra strong biocide.


----------



## aka13

Hello, I have a short question. I recently finished my loop, tested it for leaks and stuff, and now want to complete it. Initially I wanted to use mayhem red dye, but, well, it did not turn out as bloody red as I wanted. So I wanted to look into pastel colors. Should I buy pastel ice white, color the liquid with it, and afterwards and the deep red dye, or how does it work?


----------



## Animag771

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Hello, I have a short question. I recently finished my loop, tested it for leaks and stuff, and now want to complete it. Initially I wanted to use mayhem red dye, but, well, it did not turn out as bloody red as I wanted. So I wanted to look into pastel colors. Should I buy pastel ice white, color the liquid with it, and afterwards and the deep red dye, or how does it work?


From my understanding the best results will come from using pastel white, then using red dye to get a rich red and very slowly add small amounts of blue to it to darken the red and get that blood red look. I used this same red/blue concept to make fake gelatin blood for a Halloween party, so I know it works. I'm sure Zythe will respond soon enough, he might know the ratio.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Hello, I have a short question. I recently finished my loop, tested it for leaks and stuff, and now want to complete it. Initially I wanted to use mayhem red dye, but, well, it did not turn out as bloody red as I wanted. So I wanted to look into pastel colors. Should I buy pastel ice white, color the liquid with it, and afterwards and the deep red dye, or how does it work?


Adding more red dye will never get you blood red, it'll just get red...er. Slowly add blue to darken up the red until the desired blood red is achieved. Don't add too much or it'll start to turn purple. There's no need to switch to Pastel to get blood red, you'll run into the same issue there it'll just be opaque instead of transparent.

-Z


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Adding more red dye will never get you blood red, it'll just get red...er. Slowly add blue to darken up the red until the desired blood red is achieved. Don't add too much or it'll start to turn purple. There's no need to switch to Pastel to get blood red, you'll run into the same issue there it'll just be opaque instead of transparent.
> 
> -Z


Hm, I thought that without the opaque part it won't look so good. Dang, I wish I could afford myself to buy everything and experiment around. WHat would I need for this? Some blue dye, white pastel, do I miss something?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Hm, I thought that without the opaque part it won't look so good. Dang, I wish I could afford myself to buy everything and experiment around. WHat would I need for this? Some blue dye, white pastel, do I miss something?


For blood red? They have predyed blood red pastel, as well as predyed blood red X1. If you're trying to achieve a specific shade of blood red you need clear/white (insert coolant of choice here), red dye, and blue dye. Add red until it's as potent as you desire, then darken it with blue dye. It really is that simple. There isn't any specific ratio as there are many possible shades/darknesses. If you already have dyed your coolant red, you can just drip some blue into the reservoirs, again very slowly, to darken it up to a nice blood red.

As to which looks better, that's a matter of personal opinion. Personally I like transparent coolant better, I feel it highlights the build better without being the center of attention.

Blood red transparent:


Blood red pastel:


Disclaimer: These pictures were obtained after a brief internet search. I didn't have anything to do with em, they are just good examples of the differences between the two.

-Z


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> For blood red? They have predyed blood red pastel, as well as predyed blood red X1. If you're trying to achieve a specific shade of blood red you need clear/white (insert coolant of choice here), red dye, and blue dye. Add red until it's as potent as you desire, then darken it with blue dye. It really is that simple. There isn't any specific ratio as there are many possible shades/darknesses. If you already have dyed your coolant red, you can just drip some blue into the reservoirs, again very slowly, to darken it up to a nice blood red.
> 
> As to which looks better, that's a matter of personal opinion. Personally I like transparent coolant better, I feel it highlights the build better without being the center of attention.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Blood red transparent:
> 
> 
> Blood red pastel:
> 
> 
> Disclaimer: These pictures were obtained after a brief internet search. I didn't have anything to do with em, they are just good examples of the differences between the two.
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


Since you are babysitting me already, you get a rep, animag gets a rep, everyone gets a rep.

No, I don't like predyied mixes, alone for SCIENCE one has to mix it himself. And yeah, I was looking exactly for the said tip, not for "ratios" - getting a white base, propably pastel if I want to go pastel route, and if not just red + blue. Would I need more colors for mixing shades of red? In case I would want to have a brighter red?

As stated before, this is what I have got with red only - not really satisfying


----------



## Puedpued

Hi guys, Im trying to achieve something like this should i go with Pastel UV white+UV laser green dye?

Also, are pastel and dyes okay to be left in the water loop for a couple of months of not turning on the pc? Will there be any problem if there's no water flow in the loop for while? as I have to be away quite frequently.

Thanks guys


----------



## Mayhem

Stagnet water in any PC with or without coolant over long durations is never a good thing. If your away for very long times its best to empty out the loop and leaving it dry. As in long time id say any thing over 2 months.


----------



## Puedpued

thank you for your fast response.
if the loop is emptied for a period of time, how do I prevent the components from becoming rusty.

thanks again!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Stagnet water in any PC with or without coolant over long durations is never a good thing. If your away for very long times its best to empty out the loop and leaving it dry. As in long time id say any thing over 2 months.


Looks like I need to drain and clean my loop then, going into the 2nd week of it being shut off but at least my mobo should be on the way to California - Gigabyte for RMA


----------



## Mayhem

They should not become rusty if you dry them correctly. The issue with leaving coolant standing is that coolants needs to be moving to propagate properly and also is more active when moving. The only thing that will rust in a system is steel.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Since you are babysitting me already, you get a rep, animag gets a rep, everyone gets a rep.
> 
> No, I don't like predyied mixes, alone for SCIENCE one has to mix it himself. And yeah, I was looking exactly for the said tip, not for "ratios" - getting a white base, propably pastel if I want to go pastel route, and if not just red + blue. Would I need more colors for mixing shades of red? In case I would want to have a brighter red?
> 
> As stated before, this is what I have got with red only - not really satisfying


A touch of yellow may brighten it up, don't add too much or it'll turn orange. Blue to darken it to blood red. As to your coolant, it looks like the dyes did their job perfectly: it's red, nothing more; nothing less.









-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puedpued*
> 
> thank you for your fast response.
> if the loop is emptied for a period of time, how do I prevent the components from becoming rusty.
> 
> thanks again!


Well... assuming you have copper radiators, the patina should do that for you. Patina is a naturally forming barrier that occurs in copper and some copper alloys that inhibitors the underlaying copper from corroding. This is why copper, brass, etc. have been used for naval stuff, and tubes. It's best to remove coolant from the loop while it's off for one simple reason: Galvanic corrosion. More specifically galvanic corrosion between the tin solder used in the radiator, and the copper in the rad. They are in direct electrical contact, and stagnant coolant will ionize MUCH faster than coolant in motion.

-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Since you are babysitting me already, you get a rep, animag gets a rep, everyone gets a rep.
> 
> No, I don't like predyied mixes, alone for SCIENCE one has to mix it himself. And yeah, I was looking exactly for the said tip, not for "ratios" - getting a white base, propably pastel if I want to go pastel route, and if not just red + blue. Would I need more colors for mixing shades of red? In case I would want to have a brighter red?
> 
> As stated before, this is what I have got with red only - not really satisfying


Can you post a pic of the shade you want? Typically for a blood red, like ZytheEKS said, you dye the fluid to just lighter shade of red than you want, and add some blue to darken it to the blood red shade. If you just want bright red, you only need red dye


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> They should not become rusty if you dry them correctly. The issue with leaving coolant standing is that coolants needs to be moving to propagate properly and also is more active when moving. The only thing that will rust in a system is steel.


I'd been wondering this too. So after emptying a loop how does one "dry them correctly" to avoid problems when letting it sit?


----------



## electro2u

I pop them in the oven on low for an hour.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I pop them in the oven on low for an hour.


Pop what? Your loop? Id love to see you pop your pump, tubing and radiators in the oven


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Can you post a pic of the shade you want? Typically for a blood red, like ZytheEKS said, you dye the fluid to just lighter shade of red than you want, and add some blue to darken it to the blood red shade. If you just want bright red, you only need red dye


I am not really certain yet, that's why I don't want to by a premade mix. I am thinking either some bright, nice pastel red or something transparent bloodred. I have plenty of waterbottles to play with, and you don't really need much dye for experimentig. Do you have any more suggestions on coolant color, preferably red tones?

So far, I have noted that I need red dye, blue dye, yellow dye, white pastel, anything else?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Pop what? Your loop? Id love to see you pop your pump, tubing and radiators in the oven


Haha. My mistake, only the radiators I thought that's what was being discussed.

The blocks I disassemble.

Pump I never gave much thought about. Hmmm


----------



## Puedpued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Haha. My mistake, only the radiators I thought that's what was being discussed.
> 
> The blocks I disassemble.
> 
> Pump I never gave much thought about. Hmmm


I am thinking of using a hair dryer and blowing into the rads, pump and etc. would that work too?


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puedpued*
> 
> I am thinking of using a hair dryer and blowing into the rads, pump and etc. would that work too?


Or better yet, a heatgun? Like the one i use to bend tubing









Question is, how much is too much.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I switched out my Primochill Advanced LTR for some Tygoon Norprene and I switched from XT1 to Pastel. The clear tubing started getting cloudy after some benching/ gaming sessions where the coolant temp got around 40 degrees Celsius. I also finally got the grey I wanted, but with Pastel not XT1. I may try to darken it up in the future. Its definitely not as pretty as half the builds on this site, but I am extremely happy with it.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> I switched out my Primochill Advanced LTR for some Tygoon Norprene and I switched from XT1 to Pastel. The clear tubing started getting cloudy after some benching/ gaming sessions where the coolant temp got around 40 degrees Celsius. I also finally got the grey I wanted, but with Pastel not XT1. I may try to darken it up in the future. *Its definitely not as pretty as half the builds on this site, but I am extremely happy with it.
> *
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'd game on that.









-Z


----------



## Ovrclck

I just wanted to say how much I appreciate the blitz kit!. Temps seem a lot smoother now. Before blitz, I had 1 core that was 10-13c higher than the others. Temps are all even across the board now.









I'm running X1 clear btw.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I just wanted to say how much I appreciate the blitz kit!. Temps seem a lot smoother now. Before blitz, I had 1 core that was 10-13c higher than the others. Temps are all even across the board now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running X1 clear btw.


0.o you must have had some serious SOMETHING in a handful of the lanes on the block to see that kind of performance change.

-Z


----------



## XanderTheGoober

I also used the blits kit and dang was it helpful. was a little bit of a pain to get all the dang bubbles out but i eventually got it.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 0.o you must have had some serious SOMETHING in a handful of the lanes on the block to see that kind of performance change.
> 
> -Z


Yes sir!! I blame Alphacool















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> I also used the blits kit and dang was it helpful. was a little bit of a pain to get all the dang bubbles out but i eventually got it.


I hear ya on that. Luckily I have a faucet adapter and was able to run tap water for an hr or so.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd game on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


I'd hit it and not quit it myself


----------



## Mayhem

@BGKris im glad to hear you happy with the kit







.


----------



## Bluemustang

Ok so i got my pastel ice white in my cart (2 liters) and i just want to make sure i have enough.

bitspower multi 250 res (FCPU says 250ml, ppcs says 471ml, dunno whos right)
UT60 480 rad
XT45 480 rad
2 gpu blocks
1 cpu block
id guess 3-4 feet (1m give or take) of 3/8 ID tubing

So between .25 to .5 liters for the res and about 1 liter for the rads, half liter for the rest. 2 liters sounds good right?


----------



## electro2u

Might want extra for topping off but you'll probably only use about 1.75 litres.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Nice! Just ordered a Blitz cleaning kit and Mayhems Pastel UV White. Couldn't find anyone in the US that has the Deep Blue dye in stock so ordered it from the UK. Should have everything next week, I think this is going to turn out nicely.


----------



## MrPT




----------



## Infernum

^^ Nice colour/tube bend!

Which tube/compression fittings are those?


----------



## emsj86

. I know it's alittle it but figure the users of this brand might have good advise. What cor scheme should I get for sleeving I. Using the two tones but what three or four colors any ideas?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I know it's alittle it but figure the users of this brand might have good advise. What cor scheme should I get for sleeving I. Using the two tones but what three or four colors any ideas?


Maybe this will help you decide

http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/


----------



## emsj86

Ty


----------



## MrPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infernum*
> 
> ^^ Nice colour/tube bend!
> 
> Which tube/compression fittings are those?


Its a primochill primoflex advanced lrt 10/16 with barrow fittings


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Infernum*
> 
> ^^ Nice colour/tube bend!
> 
> Which tube/compression fittings are those?
> 
> 
> 
> Its a primochill primoflex advanced lrt 10/16 with barrow fittings
Click to expand...

Is that new tubing? How have you been keeping it so clear?


----------



## MrPT

Yup, it's new


----------



## sinnedone

Ok guys quick question about the X1 coolant. It's supposed to have bióxide and inhibitors already in the mix correct?

With that said, would the biocides and inhibitors work if it was brought down and used in a 1:1 with distilled water?

This would only be for a couple of weeks to stress test/over clock before it will be drained again and refilled with the same coolant with no distilled added.

I really don't feel like buying more fluid or inhibitors when it's going to be tossed in a couple of weeks.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Ok guys quick question about the X1 coolant. It's supposed to have bióxide and inhibitors already in the mix correct?
> 
> With that said, would the biocides and inhibitors work if it was brought down and used in a 1:1 with distilled water?
> 
> This would only be for a couple of weeks to stress test/over clock before it will be drained again and refilled with the same coolant with no distilled added.
> 
> I really don't feel like buying more fluid or inhibitors when it's going to be tossed in a couple of weeks.


Is there any particular reason you're going to replace it? If it's only going to be in there a couple weeks you'd almost be better off dropping in some benzyl chloride, or a silver dollar and waiting till you do the next fill to use X1. You really don't /need/ anti-corrosives for a two week period, not much if anything should happen in that timeframe assuming you don't have aluminum, silver, copper, and a wad of other metals in your loop.

-Z


----------



## sinnedone

The reason it will be emptied is because when the rest of my parts and sleeving come in I'll have to disassemble most of the loop to sleeve cables and mount a fan controller. So I figure in the 2-4 weeks until then I want to be safe rather than sorry if diluting the X1 will work fine that way.


----------



## tarui04

Dear Mayhems, have you read the last PM I sent you??


----------



## Mayhem

have done, must have missed it before.


----------



## DarthBaggins

@Mayhem Thanks for your donation to the FaT this month


----------



## Mayhem

YW.




Toby has been working on his designs and were looking at creating metal versions of the FG's now we have access to a industrial (house size) laser cutter and folding machine. The above FG is just a check sample peace and not a full working product as of yet.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> YW.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Toby has been working on his designs and were looking at creating metal versions of the FG's now we have access to a *industrial (house size) laser cutter* and folding machine. The above FG is just a check sample peace and not a full working product as of yet.


Oh god, it's the beginning of a really bad 007 spoof.

What metal are the metal ones, aluminum? Brass? Or something different. Anodized aluminum might be a nice aesthetic, especially if you rigged some LEDs behind the grill.
-Z


----------



## Animag771

Officially a Mayhems user. Just finished assembling my very first liquid cooling loop. Have already leak tested with distilled, just drained it and filled with Mayhem's Pastel Red. Going to leave the pump on overnight, with some paper towels down, just in case something got jostled loose when I drained and refilled. I hope I am as happy with the temps and noise as I am with the end result.



What do you think? Opinions?


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animag771*
> 
> Officially a Mayhems user. Just finished assembling my very first liquid cooling loop. Have already leak tested with distilled, just drained it and filled with Mayhem's Pastel Red. Going to leave the pump on overnight, with some paper towels down, just in case something got jostled loose when I drained and refilled. I hope I am as happy with the temps and noise as I am with the end result.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think? Opinions?


Grats! Looks good.


----------



## Mayhem

Brushed stainless steel lol loving the 007 idea never thought of that haha.

@Animag771 Welcome to the club as such


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animag771*
> 
> Officially a Mayhems user. Just finished assembling my very first liquid cooling loop. Have already leak tested with distilled, just drained it and filled with Mayhem's Pastel Red. Going to leave the pump on overnight, with some paper towels down, just in case something got jostled loose when I drained and refilled. I hope I am as happy with the temps and noise as I am with the end result.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think? Opinions?


Welcome - you have made a very nice job of that.

Mark


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animag771*
> 
> Officially a Mayhems user. Just finished assembling my very first liquid cooling loop. Have already leak tested with distilled, just drained it and filled with Mayhem's Pastel Red. Going to leave the pump on overnight, with some paper towels down, just in case something got jostled loose when I drained and refilled. I hope I am as happy with the temps and noise as I am with the end result.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think? Opinions?


Looks great, but that radiator could use a grill or a slimline fan on the interior. It's drawing a lot of attention away from the rest the build IMHO.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *Brushed stainless steel* lol loving the 007 idea never thought of that haha.
> 
> @Animag771 Welcome to the club as such


Oh dang, they don't dick around at Mayhems Tech, stainless steel is a pretty serious metal compared to the aluminum, brass, etc. we see with most companies. Must be a PITA to work with though, no wonder they need that giant laser to get through it.

-Z


----------



## Animag771

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Looks great, but that radiator could use a grill or a slimline fan on the interior. It's drawing a lot of attention away from the rest the build IMHO.
> 
> -Z


Thanks, I actually have a 120mm sickleflow to put on it for push/pull intake, just need to get some screws.


----------



## emsj86

I wouldn't use a sickle flow as there not made for rads. The specs make it seem like they our but there really case fans. Idk why cm lies about them having that much static preasure.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animag771*
> 
> Thanks, I actually have a 120mm sickleflow to put on it for push/pull intake, just need to get some screws.


Well then, good for you.









-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I wouldn't use a sickle flow as there not made for rads. The specs make it seem like they our but there really case fans. Idk why cm lies about them having that much static preasure.


?
Martin's tests show them as being solid fans.

They are by no means among the best fans, but with their price point in the single digits it's hard to argue with that price/performance. I've used em before, and they work well enough. A fan controller is definitely a good idea if you're going for silence though, they aren't loud at max speed but definitely audible.

-Z


----------



## ivoryg37

Put some mayhem pastel white in my system but I think I may buy some green dye. White doesn't seem to pop out as much


----------



## Mayhem

Add some white leds (darkside are good) they will make it pop.


----------



## Nomadskid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ass some white leds (darkside are good) they will make it pop.


Yea, Just ass some LED's







Sorry, but I had to lol


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ass some white leds (darkside are good) they will make it pop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> Yea, Just ass some LED's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, but I had to lol


Involving LEDs with anything involving your anus is ill advised, do not recommend.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Corrected.


----------



## DarthBaggins

New goodies for the desk build









12ft of 1/2OD Acrylic Tubing (UV Resistant)


----------



## natsu2014

Can someone tell me is this normal?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Can someone tell me is this normal?


Assuming you're referring to the separating, yes it's perfectly normal. Pastel is a nanofluid, leave it stagnant long enough and the particles will fall out of suspension. Pastel has an extremely small nano particle, so it's REALLY easy to bring it back into suspension. If it was in your loop and did that simply turning on your pump would bring it all back to normal. As for that bottle, as always with pastel shake vigorously before adding.

-Z


----------



## natsu2014

Yeah I was just afraid that something wrong is happening there. Glad to know that everything is ok


----------



## Mayhem

Heads Up .. If you sent any emails to us in the last 24 hours we may not have got them. You may have to resend them again. Sorry about any inconvenience this may have caused.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Heads Up .. If you sent any emails to us in the last 24 hours we may not have got them. You may have to resend them again. Sorry about any inconvenience this may have caused.


DNS problems?


----------



## Mayhem

Nope some mofo deleted the whole site, How ever there is now DNS issues with some companies. This should filtrate though over the next few days.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Nope some mofo deleted the whole site, How ever there is now DNS issues with some companies. This should filtrate though over the next few days.


that sucks. Hope it all gets resolved and also hope Karma comes back to bite whoever felt the need to do that.


----------



## madmalkav

I just installed Mayhems Pastel Ice White on my system. Looks good, but I expected it to be a little more "dense". I expected to look like milk, it looks a little like 90% and 10% water. I shaked the bottles like there's no tomorrow.

It is supposed to look that way? In that case, can I make it look "denser" somehow?

PS. forget it for the moment, I think it is the light here right now is the reason for that effect.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> I just installed Mayhems Pastel Ice White on my system. Looks good, but I expected it to be a little more "dense". I expected to look like milk, it looks a little like 90% and 10% water. I shaked the bottles like there's no tomorrow.
> 
> It is supposed to look that way? In that case, can I make it look "denser" somehow?
> 
> PS. forget it for the moment, I think it is the light here right now is the reason for that effect.


Was goin to suggest to throw some white light (cathode or LED, both are good) and it'll help it a lot


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Nope some mofo deleted the whole site, How ever there is now DNS issues with some companies. This should filtrate though over the next few days.


If you ever want some web design or design work give me a shout, would be happy to help.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> I just installed Mayhems Pastel Ice White on my system. Looks good, but I expected it to be a little more "dense". I expected to look like milk, it looks a little like 90% and 10% water. I shaked the bottles like there's no tomorrow.
> 
> It is supposed to look that way? In that case, can I make it look "denser" somehow?
> 
> PS. forget it for the moment, I think it is the light here right now is the reason for that effect.


Lol it looks pritty dense and if you put it next to milk its actually brighter. How ever if you wish to to look even more dense you can add some extra pastel concentrate into it.









@Benjiw thank you very much for the offer but we've always kept things simple so that we can look after it when things go wrong.







It would be lovely to have a fancy looking site though







one day.


----------



## Mayhem

As we've been asked asked.. We have some Primed only Rads going up on the site soon ready for painting.

They have a Red undercoat to protect them and can be painted any colour you wish. Pics will be forthcoming

Mick


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Lol it looks pritty dense and if you put it next to milk its actually brighter. How ever if you wish to to look even more dense you can add some extra pastel concentrate into it.


Nah, it looks cool with the proper light. Perhaps I add some aurora 2 booster in the future, as IIRC that is ok for long term use.


----------



## choLOL

Can I store the Mayhems Pastel mix in the refrigerator? It's a cool and dark place. lol


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *choLOL*
> 
> Can I store the Mayhems Pastel mix in the refrigerator? It's a cool and dark place. lol


I wouldn't because it soo cool all your other food will spoil under pressure. On a serious note i personally would not store it near food, just put it under your sink out the way.

@madmalkav if your system is built to take aurora it will last a while if not then i wouldn't bother.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @madmalkav if your system is built to take aurora it will last a while if not then i wouldn't bother.


Ok. Anyway I'm sure sooner or later you will come up with something new and I will be like "I want that BADLY!" anyway so I will wait


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Benjiw thank you very much for the offer but we've always kept things simple so that we can look after it when things go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would be lovely to have a fancy looking site though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one day.


I know, and that's why you guys are the best at what you do, I'm a student so would be cheaper too!









I plan on moving to acrylic tubing soon but I'm after some UV Coolant after finding out that maybe the aurua fluids wouldn't be the best bet in my gf's system so will be grabbing that off you guys soon. Thanks for all the info on the nano fluid btw @ZytheEKS


----------



## Animag771

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I plan on moving to acrylic tubing soon but I'm after some UV Coolant after finding out that maybe the aurua fluids wouldn't be the best bet in my gf's system so will be grabbing that off you guys soon. Thanks for all the info on the nano fluid btw @ZytheEKS


If you want UV and acrylic, you could always use UV reactive PETG (not sure if there is UV Acrylic) then for even more glow use Mayhems UV coolant/dye.


----------



## darwing

My Meyhems Pastel black, looks kind of brown... perhaps there was some water left in the loop when I added it??





even out of the bottle, it has a "green" tinge to it, not pure black..

Im Using


----------



## Mayhem

Hmm did you shake well. Always made o look black how ever looking at the bright light it indeed looks brownish, Send me your details ill send you out some purple dye to fix the issue.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hmm did you shake well. Always made o look black how ever looking at the bright light it indeed looks brownish, Send me your details ill send you out some purple dye to fix the issue.


Wow!!! Now that's customer service!!! Holy I didn't expect that at all ??

I have two big bottles of this and it's shaken straight from a new bottle, and it has like a "green" tinge to it... I tried to take some pics but my camera is at my sisters..






All parts are brand new and flushed with distiller water, I don't want to put this new stuff in in case I have to drain it again...

Singularity said typically it's pitch black like blacker than black, but he got a bad batch as well where it was off in one of his videos it looks like mine he said he thinks there was a bad batch or something

http://youtu.be/nLXiukYXlNY



I'll pm you but I'm thinking I need to get a new batch cause neither of these bottles look right, I know it is supposed to be black black ?


----------



## pmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Wow!!! Now that's customer service!!! Holy I didn't expect that at all ??
> 
> I have two big bottles of this and it's shaken straight from a new bottle, and it has like a "green" tinge to it... I tried to take some pics but my camera is at my sisters..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All parts are brand new and flushed with distiller water, I don't want to put this new stuff in in case I have to drain it again...
> 
> Singularity said typically it's pitch black like blacker than black, but he got a bad batch as well where it was off in one of his videos it looks like mine he said he thinks there was a bad batch or something
> 
> http://youtu.be/nLXiukYXlNY
> 
> 
> 
> I'll pm you but I'm thinking I need to get a new batch cause neither of these bottles look right, I know it is supposed to be black black ?


I actually bought 2 liters of Oil Black, and I was wondering why it has a green tint to it. I was assuming i should have just picked up black, and that Oil Black wasn't a solid black.
I bought the premixed 2 x 1 liter bottles the one bottle definitely looks that way, I have not cracked the seal on the other at this stage., and it is cost prohibitive for a consumer to return something as inexpensive as this.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmac*
> 
> I actually bought 2 liters of O Black, and I was wondering why it has a green tint to it. I was assuming i should have just picked up black, and that Oil Black wasn't a solid black.
> I bought the premixed 2 x 1 liter bottles the one bottle definitely looks that way, I have not cracked the seal on the other at this stage., and it is cost prohibitive for a consumer to return something as inexpensive as this.


"O black"? I just purchased two more of these and pray they are pure black or else I may raise a fuss because they are $25 per bottle...

Mayhems-pastel-pure-black-concentrate

I also picked up two bottles of the aurora 2 gold booster, can someone clarify what this is, does It turn your loop into aurora and then fade out after a week depending on the loop?

I have 2 GPUs and two 420 rads, but I didn't see that disclaimer on their website for this


----------



## Mayhem

Oil black is greenish, what colour is "oil" lol. The brownish tinge is not off and there is nothing wrong with it unless you haven't cleaned your system correctly but can simply be fixed with a drop of purple. Normally if it changes colour rapidly then its an issue with the rads and none cleaning. Black is never perfectly black but if you not happy we will correct the issue the best we can







. If you still not happy after that we can sort it out another way. BTW thats pastel pure black not oil black pictured above.


----------



## pmac

I don't know the exact color of real oil, never likely seen any raw oil in person, just the automotive stuff, cooking stuff etc
If the green tint is normal that's fine. It is that way out of the bottle, nothing to do with the system, Some is in my system, but can't tell there's a tint there it just looks dark, it's only noticeable when you tilt the bottle i put it in, and where it thins out where the light is able to light it up, that's when it is noticeable.
I simply thought it was odd, but never brought it up, then the poster mentioned it, so I thought I would chime in....I also have the Pastel Yellow in, and when you tip that bottle to get the edges thinned out, it's....get this...YELLOW!


----------



## Puedpued

Hi all,
I'm sorry if this has been asked, but I cant really find the answer anywhere.
I'm planing to get either the pastel UV yellow/green or UV laser green dye. So my question is, how long does the reactiveness of the UV usually last? Do they last longer in pastel or dye&distilled water?

Ps. Are Phobya UV LED lights good for these dyes?

Thanks


----------



## marshymellows

What kind of dye do I need if I want my pastel green a bit darker? atm it feels too light and it almost looks yellow In some lights


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puedpued*
> 
> Hi all,
> I'm sorry if this has been asked, but I cant really find the answer anywhere.
> I'm planing to get either the pastel UV yellow/green or UV laser green dye. So my question is, how long does the reactiveness of the UV usually last? Do they last longer in pastel or dye&distilled water?
> 
> Ps. Are Phobya UV LED lights good for these dyes?
> 
> Thanks


It's hard to gauge how long the reactiveness will last since it is pretty specific to the conditions of your system. Heat is the main thing.

Best thing to do is order some extra uv dye and add a little bit when the effect starts to fade. Fairly cheap solution to the problem









As far as lights go, I suggest you get the child cathodes instead of LEDs as the output is much higher, so your effect is usually better. That being said, the LEDs will still cause the reaction if you place them well... Just is easier with the cathodes


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> What kind of dye do I need if I want my pastel green a bit darker? atm it feels too light and it almost looks yellow In some lights


A touch of green will do it. If you want it more towards blue than yellow, you can add a touch of blue


----------



## DeviousAddict

Quick question.

Is there any difference in colour between Pastel Ice white and Ice dragon nano fluids?
I know they're both white but I was curious as to the difference between the two if there is any (other than one being a nano fluid).

Cheers guys


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mayhems Pastel is a nano fluid as well, and last I read I thought Ice Dragon aided in the creation of the Pastel line-up @Mayhem


----------



## gdubc

@Mayhem, A little project for your new department: design a new drain valve that would be more aurora friendly. And then take mah monies...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Mayhems Pastel is a nano fluid as well, and last I read I thought Ice Dragon aided in the creation of the Pastel line-up @Mayhem


Yeah I've read something like that before ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Relttem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Relttem*
> 
> Hi all -
> 
> if you guys are using Ice Dragon as a coolant, we'd really appreciate it if you could put a pic on our Facebook or mention that you are here, and I'll grab a pic and throw it on there..free exposure.
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> I have been searching for your product everywhere..[...]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sorry about that, we don't sell it ourselves. We tried that, and it was a nightmare..so, we have resellers selling it - Mayhems being one of them. If you got pastel, you got Ice Dragon..
Click to expand...


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puedpued*
> 
> Hi all,
> I'm sorry if this has been asked, but I cant really find the answer anywhere.
> I'm planing to get either the pastel UV yellow/green or UV laser green dye. So my question is, how long does the reactiveness of the UV usually last? Do they last longer in pastel or dye&distilled water?
> 
> Ps. Are Phobya UV LED lights good for these dyes?
> 
> Thanks


How long it will stay UV reactive is hard to say. UV dyes are the most sensitive on the market. That being said, they don't go out with a turd when they spoil like many other dyes. They more go out with a '"meh". Excessive heat, unbalanced pH, and contaminants can all reduce the life span of UV dyes. Thankfully you can just add more if the dye goes bad.

Go with cold cathodes, UV LEDs are piss poor. The VAST majority of light they emit is in the visible spectrum, not UV.
-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I've read something like that before ...


That may have been the case at the beginning of pastels life, but seeing as how there have been countless revisions to pastel since then, I highly doubt that's the case anymore. From what I understand pastel is all made in house.

-Z


----------



## Relttem

It's still a lot of Ice Dragon.. He's put a lot of time into refining it.


----------



## crappy

What is the recommended operating temperatures for pastel coolant?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Folks

To make pastel black the same recommendation at the opening post stands (e.g Mayhems Purple + Mayhems Yellow + Mayhems UV Clear Blue = UV Reactive Black)? Can I replace UV clear blue with normal blue (non-uv)? Any difference in the recipe to make aurora 2 black. I am assuming I need to start with the white pastel or aurora 2 supernova as the base. Is that correct? Or that is for water as base?


----------



## Mayhem

We take the IDC and adjust it over at the lab (not saying how) then we mix it with some other products and make it work the way we need to.. Its not the same as IDC as we've chemically changed it. We are still working with Relttem over at IDC and adjust it as needed. Basicly what ill say right here and now if you after the best performing rated liquid at removing heat go for IDC (yes its better than water at removing heat and i know cos we've done years of testing), if your after a colour and look then go for Mayhems Pastel. They are both different products.and it down to you guys to choose what you need for your system.

@Gabrielzm The UV clear blue is added ti slight tinge the colour and give it some kick. Adding blue dye alone will not do this and will change the colour completely.

@crappy There is no recommend temp it will work from-8c to about 90c in a system with no issues, taking it up to 90c will see the dye change if its a dyed version .


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We take the IDC and adjust it over at the lab (not saying how) then we mix it with some other products and make it work the way we need to.. Its not the same as IDC as we've chemically changed it. We are still working with Relttem over at IDC and adjust it as needed. Basicly what ill say right here and now if you after the best performing rated liquid at removing heat go for IDC (yes its better than water at removing heat and i know cos we've done years of testing), if your after a colour and look then go for Mayhems Pastel. They are both different products.and it down to you guys to choose what you need for your system.
> 
> @Gabrielzm The UV clear blue is added ti slight tinge the colour and give it some kick. Adding blue dye alone will not do this and will change the colour completely.
> 
> @crappy There is no recommend temp it will work from-8c to about 90c in a system with no issues, taking it up to 90c will see the dye change if its a dyed version .


Thanks mate







. And the proportion 1:1:1? Will work on both aurora 2 supernova and pastel white as the base? To make 2 liters of it how many bottles of each dye?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would think if your fluid is hitting over 90c you've got a bigger problem than just fluids changing color lol


----------



## Mayhem

Erm mayhems pastel is running in my car and its colourd and running 10c lower than just water alone .... But as darth said if your that high on a PC i need to know what you running hahaha.


----------



## DarthBaggins

hmmm. . pastel in a car









i think you need some of these "hoses" by Killer Glass @Mayhem


----------



## M3TAl

Haha. Ya I want to see some pastel in your car!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would think if your fluid is hitting over 90c you've got a bigger problem than just fluids changing color lol


What if I have a triple loop two phase TEC chiller, and need the final loop to take a couple thousand watt heatload? You don't know me!








-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Erm mayhems pastel is running in my car and its colourd and running 10c lower than just water alone .... But as darth said if your that high on a PC i need to know what you running hahaha.


Hmmm, XT-1 with Aurora Booster for vehicle coolant. Just need some pressure resistant clear tubing. That'd be interesting. On an unrelated note, this ICD stuff reminded me of something: What ever happened to Project Decimation? Did that ever get thrown back into development, or did it get thrown the guillotine for price point reasons?

-Z


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> What if I have a triple loop two phase TEC chiller, and need the final loop to take a couple thousand watt heatload? You don't know me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z
> Hmmm, XT-1 with Aurora Booster for vehicle coolant. Just need some pressure resistant clear tubing. That'd be interesting. On an unrelated note, this ICD stuff reminded me of something: What ever happened to Project Decimation? Did that ever get thrown back into development, or did it get thrown the guillotine for price point reasons?
> 
> -Z


lmao, then I say you might want to try mineral oil cooling







Or talk to the guys at your local Nuclear Power plant on a cooling solution

now wonder if I could mix a pastel to this color (Montana Gold - Poison Dark):


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> lmao, then I say you might want to try mineral oil cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Or talk to the guys at your local Nuclear Power plant on a cooling solution*
> 
> now wonder if I could mix a pastel to this color (Montana Gold - Poison Dark):


San Onofre Nuclear Reactors got decommissioned, no more local nuclear power plant.









On a side note that colour doesn't look too far off from emerald green, so it should be possible. Start with a white, and cyphon will tell you where to go from there because I have no idea.







(I'm good with transparent, not so much with pastel)

-Z


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oil black is greenish, what colour is "oil" lol. The brownish tinge is not off and there is nothing wrong with it unless you haven't cleaned your system correctly but can simply be fixed with a drop of purple. Normally if it changes colour rapidly then its an issue with the rads and none cleaning. Black is never perfectly black but if you not happy we will correct the issue the best we can
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If you still not happy after that we can sort it out another way. BTW thats pastel pure black not oil black pictured above.


So I just want to mention the customer service Mayhem provides, and I will be mentioning this in my upcoming video for my gold rush.

It is the small companies that appreciate their clientele and that's what keeps people loyal and coming back. I always take note of how a companies customer service deals with issues and dissatisfied clients (which is why I still have an Iphone even though I hate it LOL). After a long time of queries and me asking around, the Pastel I got didn't seem to satisfy my liking, it wasnt the black or close to the black I was looking for and merely mentioned it on this forum and the company owner piped up and offered to rectify the situation.

You never get this type of service with the EK's of the world and this is why we need to support companies like Mayhems.

I just want to say thank you to Mayhem for the offer, as well to this forum and users for being so helpful in bringing together knowledge and passion of custom computing









Thank you Mayhem and everyone on this great forum!


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would think if your fluid is hitting over 90c you've got a bigger problem than just fluids changing color lol
> 
> 
> 
> What if I have a triple loop two phase TEC chiller, and need the final loop to take a couple thousand watt heatload? You don't know me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Erm mayhems pastel is running in my car and its colourd and running 10c lower than just water alone .... But as darth said if your that high on a PC i need to know what you running hahaha.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hmmm, XT-1 with Aurora Booster for vehicle coolant. Just need some pressure resistant clear tubing. That'd be interesting. On an unrelated note, this ICD stuff reminded me of something: What ever happened to Project Decimation? Did that ever get thrown back into development, or did it get thrown the guillotine for price point reasons?
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

Price point is the killer and at this moment in time its impossible for us to make any money on it.. Its been tested in a system and i cannot really say much more than that as the project is just on the shelf like a few other projects.

@DarthBaggins Mate thats an easy colour to do , use blue and UV yellow green with pastel white. It only takes 1 to 2 drops of blue and play wit the UV yellow green dye.

@darwing Thank you, how ever we have had our ups and down like every one else and we have learnt our lessons too. I personally think EK are approachable if you find the right person. So much so we have partnered with them on a few projects. I cannot say the same about some other companies whom simply put don't give a hoot about there users and are just in it for the money and go around telling lies and black mailing companies and reviewers. Ive been working on Mayhems now for 6 years and i no longer "own" Mayhems its a limited company called "Mayhems Solutions Ltd" how ever i love what i do and i love what you guys do. Every day i'm learning and every day i get to do things with no restrictions in place. Mayhems is a dream job. One day i would like to take it further.

Speaking of which ... All details have been finalised ref the Stainless Steel rad grills and production run of 150 grills (small run) has been done in 5 designs. They will be ready next week so keep an eye out and ill post up all the photos. Also new tubing arrived yesterday to our specs and will be going into test over the week end .... The bend radius was good (not impressive but suitable) how ever its not of glass like quality so that needs working on.

Were moving forwards with the None staining dyes as well... they will be out soon and new 100ml versions of X1 will be out soon too. Keep an eye out were going to shake up the market and rattle some cages very soon. (i love my job)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Here is what I got folks. Looking pretty good actually the black pastel:


wondering if I can achieve the same black with aurora 2 using the dyes...


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Here is what I got folks. Looking pretty good actually the black pastel:
> 
> 
> wondering if I can achieve the same black with aurora 2 using the dyes...


Might just be me, but I think it would look better if you had pastel black going through the CPU loop, and white going through GPU loop. But that is being nitpicky.

Otherwise, damn that looks good either way. Nice job.


----------



## Knight Rider

Hi Mayhem users.

I use pastel ice white Mayhem for two months in my new system.
Obviously I cleaned my two Alphacool XT45 quad 120mm radiator with part one of Mayhem blitz pro kit and clean the entire loop with part two.

Last week I emptied my loop to install a temp sensor probe and this is what I've noticed in my motherboard block.




Do you have that kind of yellow deposit as quickly in your systems?

Here's what I have in my loop.

2X Alphacool XT45 quad 120mm radiator
EK-FC980 2X GPU block (Nickel)
2X EK Monark X4 (Nickel)
EK-FB ASUS R4BE Monoblock (nickel)
2X D5 vario pump

thank you


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Might just be me, but I think it would look better if you had pastel black going through the CPU loop, and white going through GPU loop. But that is being nitpicky.
> 
> Otherwise, damn that looks good either way. Nice job.


Thanks mate and I can see your point for sure. The gpus blocks are often the less illuminated area and white there would help bring it more light on to it. But that was a no choice from the beginning since I want the dark liquid (originally was to be gray) coming from the two white rads that are on top and front of the case with white fittings to give contrast. This was a previous test with gray pastel (sometimes looks a lot green in pictures) on the blocks:





details on Chessboard build log. But would you think I can get the same sort of black using aurora 2 supernova as a base?


----------



## Mayhem

Just a demo again how ever we've done a couple more changes to the grills but its all minor stuff.


----------



## Animag771

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puedpued*
> 
> Hi all,
> Ps. Are Phobya UV LED lights good for these dyes?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Go with cold cathodes, UV LEDs are piss poor. The VAST majority of light they emit is in the visible spectrum, not UV.


If you do end up going for LEDs you just need to be sure you get the right kind. A lot of manufacturers will sell "UV lights" that use 405nm color wavelength with gives off a visible violet light and is cheaper, but true UV light is actually invisible. So yea it looks brighter (because it's visible), but as far as being UV it's pretty pathetic.

CHECK THE WAVELENGTH!! Pick a light that is around 365nm but no lower than 320nm (harmfull to the eyes). That will give you the best results as for as UV light goes.

There is some GREAT info on UV light here.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a demo again how ever we've done a couple more changes to the grills but its all minor stuff.


Top one... not so sure about but the bottom one is pretty damn awesome!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Here is what I got folks. Looking pretty good actually the black pastel:
> 
> 
> 
> wondering if I can achieve the same black with aurora 2 using the dyes...
> 
> 
> 
> Might just be me, but I think it would look better if you had pastel black going through the CPU loop, and white going through GPU loop. But that is being nitpicky.
> 
> Otherwise, damn that looks good either way. Nice job.
Click to expand...

Yessssss . . . . .

That's exactly what jumped out at me when I first saw the pic . . . . . .

Gabz, flip the colors man . . . . I know it's a bunch of work, but I know you'll feel it was well worth the effort once you see it.

What color comes from the white rad is secondary to getting some life and contrast in the GPU area.

The technical execution is flawless, . . . just need to get that little extra to give it that MOTM pop.

Darlene


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> lmao, then I say you might want to try mineral oil cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or talk to the guys at your local Nuclear Power plant on a cooling solution
> 
> now wonder if I could mix a pastel to this color (Montana Gold - Poison Dark):


Mayhems beat me to it, but yeah was going to say the yellow/green and put some blue in
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Price point is the killer and at this moment in time its impossible for us to make any money on it.. Its been tested in a system and i cannot really say much more than that as the project is just on the shelf like a few other projects.
> 
> @DarthBaggins Mate thats an easy colour to do , use blue and UV yellow green with pastel white. It only takes 1 to 2 drops of blue and play wit the UV yellow green dye.
> 
> @darwing Thank you, how ever we have had our ups and down like every one else and we have learnt our lessons too. I personally think EK are approachable if you find the right person. So much so we have partnered with them on a few projects. I cannot say the same about some other companies whom simply put don't give a hoot about there users and are just in it for the money and go around telling lies and black mailing companies and reviewers. Ive been working on Mayhems now for 6 years and i no longer "own" Mayhems its a limited company called "Mayhems Solutions Ltd" how ever i love what i do and i love what you guys do. Every day i'm learning and every day i get to do things with no restrictions in place. Mayhems is a dream job. One day i would like to take it further.
> 
> Speaking of which ... All details have been finalised ref the Stainless Steel rad grills and production run of 150 grills (small run) has been done in 5 designs. They will be ready next week so keep an eye out and ill post up all the photos. Also new tubing arrived yesterday to our specs and will be going into test over the week end .... The bend radius was good (not impressive but suitable) how ever its not of glass like quality so that needs working on.
> 
> Were moving forwards with the None staining dyes as well... they will be out soon and new 100ml versions of X1 will be out soon too. Keep an eye out were going to shake up the market and rattle some cages very soon. (i love my job)


I agree with you on EK. My 2 fav WC (Mayhems + EK) companies joining forces in some things is still mind blowing lol

You crack me up when you start talking bout the 'other companies'.

Can't wait for the tube and non-staining dye. Will the dye be replacing the old stuff? Or will it be two separate products/price points.


----------



## SynchroSCP

OK, drained...fixed one tubing length that was slightly off and driving me crazy...24 hours of Mayhems Blitz...double flush...filled with Mayhems Pastel UV White


No UV


Buttoned Up


I like it, nice soft UV effect. With no UV on it kinda looks like I filled it with milk but I'm going to add some Mayhems Deep Blue dye when it gets here. Or maybe not, the soft UV effect is really nice, its growing on me and I may just leave it.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> OK, drained...fixed one tubing length that was slightly off and driving me crazy...24 hours of Mayhems Blitz...double flush...filled with Mayhems Pastel UV White
> 
> 
> No UV
> 
> 
> Buttoned Up
> 
> 
> I like it, nice soft UV effect. With no UV on it kinda looks like I filled it with milk but I'm going to add some Mayhems Deep Blue dye when it gets here. *Or maybe not, the soft UV effect is really nice, its growing on me and I may just leave it*.


I vote not, that soft invisible blue UV glow is really nice. It compliments the build.

-Z


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yessssss . . . . .
> 
> That's exactly what jumped out at me when I first saw the pic . . . . . .
> 
> Gabz, flip the colors man . . . . I know it's a bunch of work, but I know you'll feel it was well worth the effort once you see it.
> 
> What color comes from the white rad is secondary to getting some life and contrast in the GPU area.
> 
> The technical execution is flawless, . . . just need to get that little extra to give it that MOTM pop.
> 
> Darlene


Yep, you and @Kinaesthetic got me thinking. I might do that latter and called "Chessboard II" because that would involve a major re-organization of the loops but is growing on me the idea. Right now I am playing around with localized light to give more sparkle to the gpus area. Thanks for the comment Darlene and Kinaesthetic


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I vote not, that soft invisible blue UV glow is really nice. It compliments the build.
> 
> -Z


Thanks, I think you are correct. At the very least I'll wait and decide later but for the moment I'm very happy with the results.


----------



## yousif666

Now the Mayhem pastel already has the biocide mixed in it, so if i wanted to add red dye, lets say now i have Mayhem pastel orange and i want to add red dye in it and mix it all with distilled water, should i add Mayhem biocide extreme? or the one mixed in the pastel orange is enough?

Thanks.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yousif666*
> 
> Now the Mayhem pastel already has the biocide mixed in it, so if i wanted to add red dye, lets say now i have Mayhem pastel orange and i want to add red dye in it and mix it all with distilled water, should i add Mayhem biocide extreme? or the one mixed in the pastel orange is enough?
> 
> Thanks.


Pastel has Biocides, corrosion inhibitors, surfactants, and all that stuff already in it. Under no circumstances should you ever add Copper SUlphate (I.e. Biocide Extreme, PT Nuke, I&H Deadwater, etc) to a coolant premix or concentrate.

-Z


----------



## yousif666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Pastel has Biocides, corrosion inhibitors, surfactants, and all that stuff already in it. Under no circumstances should you ever add Copper SUlphate (I.e. Biocide Extreme, PT Nuke, I&H Deadwater, etc) to a coolant premix or concentrate.
> 
> -Z


OK but if I want to add red dye in it the dye Dont have any of these in it so it should be fine by mixing the pastel with the dye and nothing to add in it like biocide extreme or nuke...etc?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yousif666*
> 
> OK but if I want to add red dye in it the dye Dont have any of these in it so it should be fine by mixing the pastel with the dye and nothing to add in it like biocide extreme or nuke...etc?


Dye is just dye. You can mix it with any concentrate.

-Z


----------



## yousif666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Dye is just dye. You can mix it with any concentrate.
> 
> -Z


Ok what about the silver kill coil? will i be needing it? or i am good with the pastel only? since the pastel has everything needed i will change it every 6 months so i don't have to worry about anything right?

Thanks for the reply.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yousif666*
> 
> Ok what about the silver kill coil? will i be needing it? or i am good with the pastel only? since the pastel has everything needed i will change it every 6 months so i don't have to worry about anything right?
> 
> Thanks for the reply.


No silver kill coil needed. Pastel can also last over 2 years before it /needs/ to be changed. The 6th month rule of thumb doesn't apply to proper coolants.

-Z


----------



## yousif666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> No silver kill coil needed. Pastel can also last over 2 years before it /needs/ to be changed. The 6th month rule of thumb doesn't apply to proper coolants.
> 
> -Z


Thanks a lot ZytheEKS.


----------



## ALT F4

Anyone here using Aurora 2 inside a Caselabs case? I will quote this post in a few days to follow up. Too many pictures to browse through


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Anyone here using Aurora 2 inside a Caselabs case? I will quote this post in a few days to follow up. Too many pictures to browse through


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coTarfLgEY4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkEWFfHc9H8


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coTarfLgEY4
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkEWFfHc9H8


Amazing work Gabreilzm. Thank you for linking









Have you had any experience tearing down after aurora? I am curious if you had any large build up of particles in any blocks or radiator. I want to use Aurora 2 full time in my new loop but I do want to make sure it won't cause me unnecessary problems, I do understand it's not the first choice for performance but it's some nice eye candy with some wow to it


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Amazing work Gabreilzm. Thank you for linking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you had any experience tearing down after aurora? I am curious if you had any large build up of particles in any blocks or radiator. I want to use Aurora 2 full time in my new loop but I do want to make sure it won't cause me unnecessary problems, *I do understand it's not the first choice for performance but it's some nice eye candy with some wow to it*


*Performance wise it's not that different from most coolants*.

Link your components and we can help decide whether Aurora will work properly on your loop, or what you can do to make it run properly.

-Z


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> *Performance wise it's not that different from most coolants*.
> 
> Link your components and we can help decide whether Aurora will work properly on your loop, or what you can do to make it run properly.
> 
> -Z


http://www.overclock.net/t/1538049/build-log-caselabs-sth10-x99-rampage-v-extreme-intel-i7-5960x

Try your best to ignore the 20 angled fittings that will pop out of the picture


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1538049/build-log-caselabs-sth10-x99-rampage-v-extreme-intel-i7-5960x
> 
> Try your best to ignore the 20 angled fittings that will pop out of the picture


Well I meant a list of the parts in your water cooling loop, as in what radiators, what waterblocks, etc. I couldn't find that in your build log, just a bunch of pics. Looks good btw.

-Z


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well I meant a list of the parts in your water cooling loop, as in what radiators, what waterblocks, etc. I couldn't find that in your build log, just a bunch of pics. Looks good btw.
> 
> -Z


Thanks, I have not finished yet. Most of all parts have EK logo







radiators are 2x Alphacool xt45 480 and 1x Alphacool monsta 480, so all blocks are from EK for my parts in the thread. Pumps are DDC from Swiftech mcp 35x.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Thanks, I have not finished yet. Most of all parts have EK logo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> radiators are 2x Alphacool xt45 480 and 1x Alphacool monsta 480, so all blocks are from EK for my parts in the thread. Pumps are DDC from Swiftech mcp 35x.


Okay, well the rads you have will be a problem. Not only are there a lot of them, but they're all rather thick. Aurora works best with single row radiators. Every tube has a protrusion in the end chamber. The nano particles can get caught in these end chambers. The best way to avoid this is with high coolant velocities. Now here's where the multi row radiators cause issue. Every time you add another row to the radiator you lower the velocity. 2 row radiators (XT45) have 1/2 the coolant velocity of a single row, and twice as much areas for aurora to get caught.. A 3 row radiator will have 1/3rd the velocity, and 3x more areas for it to get caught, etc. So radiators with more rows not only make the particles more likely to get caught, but they add more places where the particles CAN get caught.

Now the particles getting caught there shouldn't effect performance, but you'll lose the aurora effect. Sticking with single row radiators will reduce this. (e.g. HW Labs GT Stealth both original and nemesis, Alphacool ST30, etc.) With the gained space you could even throw in push/pull to get some performance boosts. The GTS Nemesis performs VERY well if you're looking for recommendations. Check out Geggeg's radiator roundup for more info on that.

You'll also want to remove the injection plate from your CPU waterblock. This will cost you a couple degrees of core thermals but dramatically increase aurora's particle suspension life. GPU blocks are really hard to pin for whether they work well with aurora. Literally every block out there is very different. Generally I wouldn't imagine they have many areas for aurora to get caught in, so I wouldn't worry a whole lot about them. I would, however, throw the GPU blocks in series as opposed to parallel to keep coolant velocities up.

Lastly, if you do move them to series I'd throw in a second pump. 3 Waterblocks is a bit much for a single pump. If, however, you keep em in parallel one pump should be enough. It shouldn't effect aurora's lifespan much to have em in parallel but don't quote me on that.
*
TL;DR, get single row radiators and rip the injection plate and Aurora should work fine.*

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

ZytheEKS I love you .... "just saying" .... Mucho respect


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Okay, well the rads you have will be a problem. Not only are there a lot of them, but they're all rather thick. Aurora works best with single row radiators. Every tube has a protrusion in the end chamber. The nano particles can get caught in these end chambers. The best way to avoid this is with high coolant velocities. Now here's where the multi row radiators cause issue. Every time you add another row to the radiator you lower the velocity. 2 row radiators (XT45) have 1/2 the coolant velocity of a single row, and twice as much areas for aurora to get caught.. A 3 row radiator will have 1/3rd the velocity, and 3x more areas for it to get caught, etc. So radiators with more rows not only make the particles more likely to get caught, but they add more places where the particles CAN get caught.
> 
> Now the particles getting caught there shouldn't effect performance, but you'll lose the aurora effect. Sticking with single row radiators will reduce this. (e.g. HW Labs GT Stealth both original and nemesis, Alphacool ST30, etc.) With the gained space you could even throw in push/pull to get some performance boosts. The GTS Nemesis performs VERY well if you're looking for recommendations. Check out Geggeg's radiator roundup for more info on that.
> 
> You'll also want to remove the injection plate from your CPU waterblock. This will cost you a couple degrees of core thermals but dramatically increase aurora's particle suspension life. GPU blocks are really hard to pin for whether they work well with aurora. Literally every block out there is very different. Generally I wouldn't imagine they have many areas for aurora to get caught in, so I wouldn't worry a whole lot about them. I would, however, throw the GPU blocks in series as opposed to parallel to keep coolant velocities up.
> 
> Lastly, if you do move them to series I'd throw in a second pump. 3 Waterblocks is a bit much for a single pump. If, however, you keep em in parallel one pump should be enough. It shouldn't effect aurora's lifespan much to have em in parallel but don't quote me on that.
> *
> TL;DR, get single row radiators and rip the injection plate and Aurora should work fine.*
> 
> -Z


Thanks for laying it all out, I appreciate it.








I'm going to run Aurora and see how long I can keep the effect going on my next loop. I think it will look great with the acrylic.
Right now I have two seperate loops, gpu and cpu/mobo, seperate mcp35x each, two radiators push/pull 1 not.


----------



## Mayhem

As per requests ->




Primed only Mayhems Havoc Rads you know were to go to get em


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Amazing work Gabreilzm. Thank you for linking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you had any experience tearing down after aurora? I am curious if you had any large build up of particles in any blocks or radiator. I want to use Aurora 2 full time in my new loop but I do want to make sure it won't cause me unnecessary problems, I do understand it's not the first choice for performance but it's some nice eye candy with some wow to it


Thank you mate. I used aurora 2 first time in the gpu loop. It was in for about 2 weeks. Bear in mind that at that time I usually turn the computer down for 12 hours or so each day. After that I drained and flush it with distil a couple of time (filling the loop and re-circulating it with the pumps). After 4-5 of these rinses the loop was pristine clear. I took the ek gpu blocks out and inspected them and was no trace or deposits of aurora in it.

@ZytheEKS, I am running Aurora 2 supernova now in my cpu loop. Ek supremacy lga 2011 jetplate, 2 monarck 4x ek blocks, 1 560 mm HWLabs Stealth SR1+ 2 d5 pumps. Keeping flow at 0.45 GPM and was planning on leaving the system up all times to avoid deposition. Do you think the rad or jetplate are a potential problem?

Also on another loop I have 1 rx v3 480 mm and 1 rx 240 mm v3 rad + titan ek blocks and 2 d5. Would the rads be a problem here to run Aurora 2 or the booster?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Thanks for laying it all out, I appreciate it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to run Aurora and see how long I can keep the effect going on my next loop. I think it will look great with the acrylic.
> Right now I have two seperate loops, gpu and cpu/mobo, seperate mcp35x each, two radiators push/pull 1 not.


Well, if aurora goes belly up on ya at least you'll know why.







That's a lot of rad to keep on for Aurora.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thank you mate. I used aurora 2 first time in the gpu loop. It was in for about 2 weeks. Bear in mind that at that time I usually turn the computer down for 12 hours or so each day. After that I drained and flush it with distil a couple of time (filling the loop and re-circulating it with the pumps). After 4-5 of these rinses the loop was pristine clear. I took the ek gpu blocks out and inspected them and was no trace or deposits of aurora in it.
> 
> @ZytheEKS, I am running Aurora 2 supernova now in my cpu loop. *Ek supremacy lga 2011 jetplate, 2 monarck 4x ek blocks, 1 560 mm HWLabs Stealth SR1+ 2 d5 pumps. Keeping flow at 0.45 GPM and was planning on leaving the system up all times to avoid deposition. Do you think the rad or jetplate are a potential problem?
> *
> Also on another loop I have 1 rx v3 480 mm and 1 rx 240 mm v3 rad + titan ek blocks and 2 d5. Would the rads be a problem here to run Aurora 2 or the booster?


*
Well, I'm fairly certain the Supremacy 2011 uses the J3 injection plate, which isn't usually a huge deal with aurora. Don't fix what's not broken. If the aurora effects look good, there likely isn't an issue. That being said I've seen that injection plate completely take aurora out of suspension. I'd play it by ear. Literally your worst case scenario is you end up flushing your system, so not much risk. Are you sure flow is only .45GPM? That sees pretty low for 2 D5s. If they're set to a really low setting, I'd crank that up till you're hitting around 1GPM*

That's a lot of rad for aurora. If you ran the titan EK blocks in parallel and cranked up those D5s up to max settings, or near max, you might be able to get away with it.

-Z


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well, if aurora goes belly up on ya at least you'll know why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a lot of rad to keep on for Aurora.
> 
> -Z
> *
> Well, I'm fairly certain the Supremacy 2011 uses the J3 injection plate, which isn't usually a huge deal with aurora. Don't fix what's not broken. If the aurora effects look good, there likely isn't an issue. That being said I've seen that injection plate completely take aurora out of suspension. I'd play it by ear. Literally your worst case scenario is you end up flushing your system, so not much risk. Are you sure flow is only .45GPM? That sees pretty low for 2 D5s. If they're set to a really low setting, I'd crank that up till you're hitting around 1GPM*
> 
> That's a lot of rad for aurora. If you ran the titan EK blocks in parallel and cranked up those D5s up to max settings, or near max, you might be able to get away with it.
> 
> -Z


Thank you mate







Yeah it is a dual loop with redundancy so two d5's per loop. That means I can run the loop with the d5's at 25% and still get 0.45 GPM. At 100% on both pumps both loops go up to around 1.45 GPM. I got rid of the aurora 2 on the gpu loop and running pastel with some leftovers of aurora booster. I will keep an eye on the flow and if need it be flush it and change to clean/fresh pastel.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> *Thank you mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it is a dual loop with redundancy so two d5's per loop. That means I can run the loop with the d5's at 25% and still get 0.45 GPM. At 100% on both pumps both loops go up to around 1.45 GPM.* I got rid of the aurora 2 on the gpu loop and running pastel with some leftovers of aurora booster. I will keep an eye on the flow and if need it be flush it and change to clean/fresh pastel.


For future reference if you lose the aurora effect try cranking them up to 4. That would likely kick it back into suspension.

-Z


----------



## tipes

Hi all,

Anybody on here using a D5 strong pump aka Koolance pmp450S. Reason I ask is I have the 24V controller for it(Dual one)but
the maximum rpm is only 4639 rpm. The rpm seems no different to a standard 12v D5 pump? Is mine faulty? Have tried both controller ports
but no difference. Very disappointed really.









Mark


----------



## VSG

The added flow rate will be much more, and the RPM should be close to 6000. How are you applying the 24V?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The added flow rate will be much more, and the RPM should be close to 6000. How are you applying the 24V?


Ditto on the 6000 + rpm number.

What controller did you get, link please, maybe there's a switch or jumper to set for 24V operation, also, what is your 24V source?

Darlene


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The added flow rate will be much more, and the RPM should be close to 6000. How are you applying the 24V?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Ditto on the 6000 + rpm number.
> 
> What controller did you get, link please, maybe there's a switch or jumper to set for 24V operation, also, what is your 24V source?
> 
> Darlene


Hi Guy and Girls,

The controller I am using to control the 450S is this one:-

http://koolance.com/ctr-spd12x2-dual-12v-pump-controller

Using a converter cable - Molex converted to 3 pin supply - similar to the cable koolance supply. So molex to controller from PSU, then the molex from the pump connected to the converter and this is plugged in to the controllers 3 pin pump out. This should be right afaik?

Thanks for your help so far - would really like to get the proper benefit from the pump - where am I going wrong?

Mark


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Hi Guy and Girls,
> 
> The controller I am using to control the 450S is this one:-
> 
> http://koolance.com/ctr-spd12x2-dual-12v-pump-controller
> 
> Using a converter cable - Molex converted to 3 pin supply - similar to the cable koolance supply. So molex to controller from PSU, then the molex from the pump connected to the converter and this is plugged in to the controllers 3 pin pump out. This should be right afaik?
> 
> Thanks for your help so far - would really like to get the proper benefit from the pump - where am I going wrong?
> 
> Mark


If I got this right that is the wrong controller. You need 24 v for the 450s to operate above normal d5 rpm ~4800. Either this one: http://koolance.com/pump-or-fan-speed-controller-ctr-spd1224m or this one http://koolance.com/ctr-cd1224-pump-and-fan-controller-with-display


----------



## tipes

Hi,

Not sure now - seems in the spec for the controller I have it supports up to 25W per pump - so it should work?
Having said that I have just realised it says 25w, and not 24V - maybe that is it. Looks like I have the wrong controller.
This is disappointing as I believed the dual controller also ramped up to 24v.

Mark


----------



## VSG

Well seeing how the title says dual 12V, it just provides 12 volts to two devices attached to it at most.


----------



## easynator

Sneak peak for the fuild for my [Project Purple Horizon]. I'm still not sure if I'll go with Aurora 2 with booster and purple dye or with the pastel white with purple dye.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Speaking of pump controllers, can't wait to test out my AquaComputer Power Adjust 2 USB Ultra







I know my MCP355 DDC needs some control (going full blast for over a year has to be taking a toll on it)


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well seeing how the title says dual 12V, it just provides 12 volts to two devices attached to it at most.


Yep - what threw me was the 25w - doh. Just ordered the other controller which does support 24V.
Thanks to everyone who chimed in and advised etc.

Mark


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well seeing how the title says dual 12V, it just provides 12 volts to two devices attached to it at most.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - what threw me was the 25w - doh. Just ordered the other controller which does support 24V.
> Thanks to everyone who chimed in and advised etc.
> 
> Mark
Click to expand...

Do you have 1 pump or 2? . . . . I was thinking 2, since you originally bought the dual controller

*If you do have a dual pump setup, you'll need 2 new controllers*, since they don't have a 12V to 24V step-up controller for two pumps.

They have a lower end controller:

http://koolance.com/pump-or-fan-speed-controller-ctr-spd1224m

and a high end controller with display:

http://koolance.com/ctr-cd1224-pump-and-fan-controller-with-display

Each one only has the capacity to run a single pump . . . 50W at 24V

Darlene


----------



## tipes

Hi,

I only have one pump at present - just happened to get the other controller cheap 2nd hand. Don't think I need two pumps - not yet anyway.
Maybe when I add 2nd or third graphics etc I might, but then I might not go that route. Thanks for your help again.

Mark


----------



## ZytheEKS

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *easynator*
> 
> Sneak peak for the fuild for my [Project Purple Horizon]. I'm still not sure if I'll go with Aurora 2 with booster and purple dye or with the pastel white with purple dye.


Just a heads up, I wouldn't add Aurora Booster to Aurora 2. Over-saturating the coolant with the particles may have adverse side effects.

-Z


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Oh man, this is ironic. After all the hoopla that TTL threw when he screwed up his Mayhems coolant on his Orca build by not cleaning it out properly, he is back to using EK's pastel line. And I don't think that he even realizes that EK Pastel is just Mayhem's. This hypocrisy is absolutely hilarious.


----------



## electro2u

I hate it when people leave the blue plastic on the emblems. I also hate the leak test stickers Ek uses. Scraping them off with my fingernail is annoying and using an exactoknife is scary.


----------



## VSG

Mind linking to the TTL-Pastel incident? The guy is slowly becoming a spoof of himself.


----------



## RpeeKooz

It's time for me to do a clean out of my gear..I'm going to throw aurora 2 in it for 6 months to see how it goes..but I have phobia
480 rads.I Need to clean the flux and **** out properly.my pastel lasted 2 months before it went pinkish.I cant get blitz part 1 anywhere is australia. So what is the next best way to clean old pastel and flux out before I add my aurora 2???


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_REAPER_*
> 
> DMN that looks nice


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PunkNugget*
> 
> You want UV light? Well, I've got some for you right here:
> 
> http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/287857-new-macmod-2013-build-lemon-lime-twist/
> 
> Scroll to the bottom to Post #7 and click on the Spoiler "Show" button to reveal all the pics.
> 
> Here's one for you though:
> 
> 
> 
> The loop is using Ice Dragon and Mayhems' combo of:
> 
> - UV Green
> - UV Laser Green
> - Dark Blue
> 
> Let me know what you guys think. To my knowledge it has the most UV lights in a single strip in any PC cased system that I've seen so far and it lights up the whole office !!! If you seen another one with more please post it (as I like to see more UV lit PC builds). Thanks...


Do you remember your ratio for your dyes that you used?

Could you also link the lights that you used to power this sexy beast!?


----------



## darwing

So I dont know what to do now, I purchased 2 liters of "Mayhems pure pastel Black" to put in my system and it looked greenish/brown





so Mayhem said he would send me an additive to fix it, however I don't have alot of time so I said thank you, but I need to get this fixed soon (he sent some dyes anyways which is really good customer service)

Purchased 2 bottles of "pastel Black Concentrate" mixed accordingly (cleaned out the system obvi) and now it looks blue....





I dont know what to do, even pouring these two into bottles directly before the system I can tell they are off...

I'm at a loss I may need to find another black coolant...

Here is a video but it isnt really showing the difference between the two please give me your suggestions




will be online soon processing


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So I dont know what to do now, I purchased 2 liters of "Mayhems pure pastel Black" to put in my system and it looked greenish/brown
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so Mayhem said he would send me an additive to fix it, however I don't have alot of time so I said thank you, but I need to get this fixed soon (he sent some dyes anyways which is really good customer service)
> 
> Purchased 2 bottles of "pastel Black Concentrate" mixed accordingly (cleaned out the system obvi) and now it looks blue....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont know what to do, even pouring these two into bottles directly before the system I can tell they are off...
> 
> I'm at a loss I may need to find another black coolant...
> 
> Here is a video but it isnt really showing the difference between the two please give me your suggestions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will be online soon processing


Why don't you just wait for the dyes to fix your issue? As Mayhems can only help you if you help yourself.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Why don't you just wait for the dyes to fix your issue? As Mayhems can only help you if you help yourself.


when your willing to purchase the item flat out, it should come out like that, it shouldnt be to hard...

Also do you have any idea how long it takes to ship from the UK to Canada, weeks and thats if they express shipped...

anyways, I was asking if anyone else has come into this issue


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> when your willing to purchase the item flat out, it should come out like that, it shouldnt be to hard...
> 
> Also do you have any idea how long it takes to ship from the UK to Canada, weeks and thats if they express shipped...
> 
> anyways, I was asking if anyone else has come into this issue


I'm not arguing the fact that it should come to you in x y and z but they've tried to help fix the issue and you've bought a new set with a different colour so will the stuff they sent you work? I dunno, I would of waited personally.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Oh man, this is ironic. After all the hoopla that TTL threw when he screwed up his Mayhems coolant on his Orca build by not cleaning it out properly, he is back to using EK's pastel line. And I don't think that he even realizes that EK Pastel is just Mayhem's. This hypocrisy is absolutely hilarious.


Tom know's about Mayhems and EK partnership we are all so on speaking terms and sorted our past mistakes







.

@darwing The dyes are in the post to fix your issues. Black can change colour depending on many factors such as cleaning, blocks, storage ect ect ect. Not the easiest colour in the world to get right. BTW the dyes we sent you are now useless to fix your issue and as staied in the Pm kind of wasted time and money.Check your Pms out any way.

and last but not least on the Havoc rads i was asked why use Red primer you cannot paint it white ... well ... you can

This is me just mid painting a rad


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Tom know's about Mayhems and EK partnership we are all so on speaking terms and sorted our past mistakes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> @darwing The dyes are in the post to fix your issues. Black can change colour depending on many factors such as cleaning, blocks, storage ect ect ect. Not the easiest colour in the world to get right. BTW the dyes we sent you are now useless to fix your issue and as staied in the Pm kind of wasted time and money.Check your Pms out any way.
> 
> and last but not least on the Havoc rads i was asked why use Red primer you cannot paint it white ... well ... you can
> 
> This is me just mid painting a rad


Not true I still have both products, so the dyes you sent will fix the original issue as I still have all that Liquid

Thank you for sending them I'll use them when they arrive with the original config


----------



## Mayhem

check your pms im getting steve to check and send out new full coolants.

Mick


----------



## Mayhem

Here are the new X1 concentrate that will be shipping soon to resellers. they are the 100ml version and are RRP at £4.00 making them really cheap so users can no longer say coolants are expensive.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I just hope me or the family don't mix one of those bottles up with the shampoo or mouthwash. Hate to find out the UV blue stains teeth or hair or not.


----------



## VSG

lol that was the first thing I thought of when I saw it on FB earlier.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Tom know's about Mayhems and EK partnership we are all so on speaking terms and sorted our past mistakes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


hey mick
the pastel white its getting worst.
What is this black think inside the pastel??
now the pastel its 4 month old and last month was only yellow but now its becoming black

One month ago



now


----------



## Turbz

Mick, quick one.

I cleaned 4 new rads with Part 1 blitz (thanks for sending the extra bottles).

The rads have been sitting dry for weeks now. They are going in a system with all brand new blocks and loop. Do I need to use Part 2 on a brand new system, or can I save it for later?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> hey mick
> the pastel white its getting worst.
> What is this black think inside the pastel??
> now the pastel its 4 month old and last month was only yellow but now its becoming black
> 
> One month ago
> 
> 
> 
> now


What rads are in there, and what did you do to clean em?

Also

Did you shake the pastel like a madman before mixing it?

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Mick, quick one.
> 
> I cleaned 4 new rads with Part 1 blitz (thanks for sending the extra bottles).
> 
> The rads have been sitting dry for weeks now. They are going in a system with all brand new blocks and loop. Do I need to use Part 2 on a brand new system, or can I save it for later?


You really should have run the part 2 through the radiators immediately after running part 1, as it's a pH neutralizer. Brand new parts shouldn't need to be cleaned (unless they're radiators). I would, however, run part 2 through the rads if you haven't already.
-Z


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the new X1 concentrate that will be shipping soon to resellers. they are the 100ml version and are RRP at £4.00 making them really cheap so users can no longer say coolants are expensive.


So the concentrates + distilled retain their color correct? I woulldnt want it turning into this:











lol

Quick question about color though. If I bought the x1 uv blue concentrate and wanted a depper blue would adding some uv purple acomplish that?

I'm trying to match a deep anodized blue color or about the shade of the fans in my build here:


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> when your willing to purchase the item flat out, it should come out like that, it shouldnt be to hard...
> 
> Also do you have any idea how long it takes to ship from the UK to Canada, weeks and thats if they express shipped...
> 
> anyways, I was asking if anyone else has come into this issue


Sounds like Mayhems could do with someone in N.A. to manage customer service' replacements, etc. on that side of the world.

-Z


----------



## electro2u

I'm good at customer service. I'll do it. I waited tables for 15 years so the worst that can happen is I spit in someone's coolant.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I'm good at customer service. I'll do it. I waited tables for 15 years so *the worst that can happen is I spit in someone's coolant.*










Remind me to never eat out if I'm ever in *insert your location here*. Come to think of it, the mucous in saliva might make a fairly potent surfactant. Since tears contain a similar mucous I wonder if I could use someones tears as a coolant. Hmmm.... possibilities.

-Z


----------



## Bluemustang

Going to clean a 2 480mm rads soon, a UT60 and XT45. I believe both will be a little more than 1 litter and part 1 is supposed to dilute to 1 liter. I assume adding a little extra distilled should be fine? Maybe just let it sit a little longer?


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> What rads are in there, and what did you do to clean em?
> 
> Also
> 
> Did you shake the pastel like a madman before mixing it?
> 
> -Z
> You really should have run the part 2 through the radiators immediately after running part 1, as it's a pH neutralizer. Brand new parts shouldn't need to be cleaned (unless they're radiators). I would, however, run part 2 through the rads if you haven't already.
> -Z


I appreciate the help but i clean it very well the first time and i know how to prepare and flush the rad.

Seems that the liquid in contact with sun light cause some kind of Algae .
The yellowing was happen wiith my previous tubing this is why i swich to rigit tubing to avoid the yellowing.
But i get the same problem even worst with a brand new dual loop with rigit tubing

here the rigit tubing with this yellow stuff. Its really a pain to clean it. Toke me 5 hours.


I did some sun light test
I move the case close to the windows
The second loop start yellowing too when i move it and the first loop was getting really worst in a short time.
I think this coolant cannot stay in contact with sun light not even for 1 hour.

Now i running water and i will empty my second loop with pastel red tomorrow and put water with some anti algae.
I'm really think to go with a closed loop if i have the same problem again with water.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> I appreciate the help but i clean it very well the first time and i know how to prepare and flush the rad.
> 
> Seems that the liquid in contact with sun light cause some kind of Algae .
> The yellowing was happen wiith my previous tubing this is why i swich to rigit tubing to avoid the yellowing.
> But i get the same problem even worst with a brand new dual loop with rigit tubing
> 
> here the rigit tubing with this yellow stuff. Its really a pain to clean it. Toke me 5 hours.
> 
> 
> I did some sun light test
> I move the case close to the windows
> The second loop start yellowing too when i move it and the first loop was getting really worst in a short time.
> I think this coolant cannot stay in contact with sun light not even for 1 hour.
> 
> Now i running water and i will empty my second loop with pastel red tomorrow and put water with some anti algae.
> I'm really think to go with a closed loop if i have the same problem again with water.


That's very odd. Pastel SHOULD have biocides to prevent any algae growth in them. Sunlight /shouldn't/ cause algae growth for some anomalous reason, if it did we'd see people with algae growth whenever they use a white cathode. I'd save a sample of the coolant, maybe Mick will want to look at it to figure out what exactly is going on under a microscope or something. As I see it, it's not plasticizers, it's not flux (assuming the rads were all properly blitzed), and unless you got a defective bottle of pastel it's not algae. Very interesting indeed. But here I am dazing off wondering what it could be, while you're still stuck with it. Wish I could be of more help, but I'm tapped out. Again, I'd save a sample just incase.

-Z


----------



## Anoxy

Is it okay to use Petra's PT Nuke with clear Mayhem's X1? Or should I drain my loop and then use it....I'm just lazy and would rather not.


----------



## Soxism

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*


*Take My Money Already!*


----------



## Mayhem

Sunlight can damage clear tubing and our pastel and IDC block out sunlight and UV rays. this in turn help stop growth of alga, Basically the same base product in sun cream is used in pastel except at a stronger smaller scale. Also there are very strong biocides in the fluids to stop growth so the discoloring of your tubing is just that, its the tubing not the fluids. Its defo not faulty coolant.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sunlight can damage clear tubing and our pastel and IDC block out sunlight and UV rays. this in turn help stop growth of alga, Basically the same base product in sun cream is used in pastel except at a stronger smaller scale. Also there are very strong biocides in the fluids to stop growth so the discoloring of your tubing is just that, its the tubing not the fluids. Its defo not faulty coolant.


Sunlight can? I read that acrylic was resistant to UV and it was iffy with no clear evidence on how resistant PETG is. Thats what i've read at least.

And PS, Mayhems?:

Going to clean a 2 480mm rads soon, a UT60 and XT45. I believe both will be a little more than 1 litter and part 1 is supposed to dilute to 1 liter. I assume adding a little extra distilled should be fine? Maybe just let it sit a little longer?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is it okay to use Petra's PT Nuke with clear Mayhem's X1? Or should I drain my loop and then use it....I'm just lazy and would rather not.


PT Nuke (Non pHN) is copper sulphate. Copper sulphate typically doesn't work well with other coolants. I wouldn't risk it. We all get lazy time and again, but thankfully once you get X1 in there you won't have to stop being lazy for a year or two.









-Z


----------



## NE0XY

Do you recommend using the blitz kit with all rads or just Alphacool rads?


----------



## Mayhem

You can use it on any Rad you wish how ever it was mainly dev'd it for the Alphacool rads . We've used it to clean Thermochill, mayhems havocs and many other rads.



Mayhems Havoc Primed Radiator Painted white to show how well its looks. Once you have painted your rad it will look better than any other pre painted rad on the market.









And another one with a Stainless Steel Mayhems Rad grill and Hex Bolts fitted for show.



Last but not least a fully painted Stainless Steel Fan grill and Rad by Mayhems.



Enjoy


----------



## testplsignore

Got a few questions:

Is the EK pastel red coolant the same as mayhems pastel red?

Also, I know normal red dye is known for staining badly, but does the same apply to pastel?

I'll be using EK plexi blocks and Primochill Advanced LRT clear tubing, how likely are they to stain with pastel red?

Cheers


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sunlight can damage clear tubing and our pastel and IDC block out sunlight and UV rays. this in turn help stop growth of alga, Basically the same base product in sun cream is used in pastel except at a stronger smaller scale. Also there are very strong biocides in the fluids to stop growth so the discoloring of your tubing is just that, its the tubing not the fluids. Its defo not faulty coolant.


Sorry mick but i dont think that the tubing is the issues here.
Arylic tubing doesnt yellow in 2 month also the tubing are not damaged its just this dirty yellow stuff sticking inside it.
So what is it ? how i can prevent this from happening?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is it okay to use Petra's PT Nuke with clear Mayhem's X1? Or should I drain my loop and then use it....I'm just lazy and would rather not.


Zero need. You don't need ANYTHING else besides X1 and water.

X1 has EVERYTHING you need. PT Nuke and the like are all garbage by comparison.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sunlight can damage clear tubing and our pastel and IDC block out sunlight and UV rays. this in turn help stop growth of alga, Basically the same base product in sun cream is used in pastel except at a stronger smaller scale. Also there are very strong biocides in the fluids to stop growth so the discoloring of your tubing is just that, its the tubing not the fluids. Its defo not faulty coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry mick but i dont think that the tubing is the issues here.
> Arylic tubing doesnt yellow in 2 month also the tubing are not damaged its just this dirty yellow stuff sticking inside it.
> So what is it ? how i can prevent this from happening?
Click to expand...

Put the fluid in a tube, seal the tube up and put it next to the window and see what happens. Youll need to shake the tube every one in a while, wait and see if you get a reaction.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Put the fluid in a tube seal the tube up and put it next to the window and see what happens. See if you get a reaction.


Mick inside the res i found black dirty stuff looks like mold.



if the tubing in contact with uv is causing this what kind of rigit tubing should i use???
Anyway i have 12inch white led installed from darkside.
i use rigit tubing from primochill


----------



## emsj86

Crazy but did you by any chance clean your rads or anything g with tap water. And that some was left in the system. Also by any chance did you run a different coolant before.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Sunlight can? I read that acrylic was resistant to UV and it was iffy with no clear evidence on how resistant PETG is. Thats what i've read at least.
> 
> And PS, Mayhems?:
> 
> Going to clean a 2 480mm rads soon, a UT60 and XT45. I believe both will be a little more than 1 litter and part 1 is supposed to dilute to 1 liter. I assume adding a little extra distilled should be fine? Maybe just let it sit a little longer?


Depends on the acrylic tubing,I know when I ordered mine I made sure to get the UV resistant version


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Crazy but did you by any chance clean your rads or anything g with tap water. And that some was left in the system. Also by any chance did you run a different coolant before.


every time i buy new stuff i flush with hot tap water 4-5 times and again flush it with with DY water and after i install it and put the coolant.
Rad used wth other coolant i flush with tap hot water then leave it for 1-2 hours with water and vinegard , after again flush with tap water and flush with Dy water.

There is no way i install dirty rad before adding coolant.

let see if with water the tubing will yellowing


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> every time i buy new stuff i flush with hot tap water 4-5 times and again flush it with with DY water and after i install it and put the coolant.
> *Rad used wth other coolant i flush with tap hot water then leave it for 1-2 hours with water and vinegard , after again flush with tap water and flush with Dy water.*
> 
> There is no way i install dirty rad before adding coolant.
> 
> let see if with water the tubing will yellowing


May I suggest a test? Use the same procedure above for the tube with water test. I am wondering if the acid from the vinegar was not totally neutralized. Usually people use a base after a vinegar rinse to neutralize the acid. Just a thought, not saying this is the cause mate.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> May I suggest a test? Use the same procedure above for the tube with water test. I am wondering if the acid from the vinegar was not totally neutralized. Usually people use a base after a vinegar rinse to neutralize the acid. Just a thought, not saying this is the cause mate.


5-6 flush of hot water will remove the vinegard acid form the rad.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *testplsignore*
> 
> Got a few questions:
> 
> Is the EK pastel red coolant the same as mayhems pastel red?
> 
> Also, I know normal red dye is known for staining badly, but does the same apply to pastel?
> 
> I'll be using EK plexi blocks and Primochill Advanced LRT clear tubing, how likely are they to stain with pastel red?
> 
> Cheers


Same coolant makeup. If I remember correctly EK has slightly different colours.

Dyes stains, it's what it does. Coloured pastel is just pastel ice white with dye. Staining is vastly over exaggerated, it's a slight tint at best and that's over years. Flex tubing is the most likely to stain because it can dry out and become more rigid except it doesn't because it absorbs coolant from your loop to keep moisture. If coloured coolant is in your loop guess what coloured coolant it's absorbing.

-Z


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> 5-6 flush of hot water will remove the vinegard acid form the rad.


Just because you flush your loop with water after using vinegar doesn't actually mean you are significantly changing the acidity of your loop. You'll still need a strong base to neutralize your loop back to 7pH.

It would seem that you haven't taken the necessary precautions when cleaning your loop.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> And PS, Mayhems?:
> 
> Going to clean a 2 480mm rads soon, a UT60 and XT45. I believe both will be a little more than 1 litter and part 1 is supposed to dilute to 1 liter. I assume adding a little extra distilled should be fine? Maybe just let it sit a little longer?


So?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> So?


Should be safe. I wouldn't over-dilute it by any more than 200ml though.

-Z


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> PT Nuke (Non pHN) is copper sulphate. Copper sulphate typically doesn't work well with other coolants. I wouldn't risk it. We all get lazy time and again, but thankfully once you get X1 in there you won't have to stop being lazy for a year or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Zero need. You don't need ANYTHING else besides X1 and water.
> 
> X1 has EVERYTHING you need. PT Nuke and the like are all garbage by comparison.


Unfortunately, that's not the case. It's been less than a year with X1 and my clear primochill advanced lrt is no longer clear. It's yellowish brown.

HOWEVER, the coolant in my reservoir is clear so maybe it's just a fail on Primochill's part??


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Unfortunately, that's not the case. It's been less than a year with X1 and my clear primochill advanced lrt is no longer clear. It's yellowish brown.
> 
> HOWEVER, the coolant in my reservoir is clear so maybe it's just a fail on Primochill's part??


Yup. Primochill has a known issue with discolouring. It will develop a yellowish/brown tint over time. It's not an issue with plasticizers so don't worry about scrubbing those demons out of your loop, it's just the tubing. It shouldn't mess with your coolant, and it won't dirty up your loop.

-Z


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Just because you flush your loop with water after using vinegar doesn't actually mean you are significantly changing the acidity of your loop. You'll still need a strong base to neutralize your loop back to 7pH.
> 
> It would seem that you haven't taken the necessary precautions when cleaning your loop.


my ph water its 7 so....


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> my ph water its 7 so....


The water coming out of the rads on the final flush was? As in it was tested with a pH strip? Because that's highly unlikely as pure water has a pH of only 6.3, and you were flushing out acid. We've suggested quite a few things and you've been rather resistant to try any of them. There could be quite a few things going on, but without further info we no one can say for sure. Trying to diagnose a coolant based on a picture of the res/tubes is like trying to diagnose car troubles based on a picture of the engine: Obvious causes are easy to spot, anything else requires a bit more investigation. I'd suggest testing the pH, and leaving a sample on the window. That will tell us if its a problem with pH, and/or if its an issue with the biocides. If you just keep asking "what is this" and only give us a picture the only thing we can tell you is we need more info.

-Z


----------



## hitzestau

Mayhems Aurora with an Alphacool reservoir and a D5 pump top:


----------



## Mayhem

That looks fantastic but ill surmise you've just put it in . We normally do not recommend bay reservoirs only tubes one due to the way aurora works, How ever it will be interesting to see your long term results.

Mick


----------



## hitzestau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> That looks fantastic but ill surmise you've just put it in . We normally do not recommend bay reservoirs only tubes one due to the way aurora works, How ever it will be interesting to see your long term results.
> 
> Mick


Thanks, we built a small loop just for photography purposes, so there will be no long term results I'm afraid.

But I am a bit confused, I thought Aurora wasn't suitable for lomg term use anyway. And can you elaborate a bit on the differences between bay and tube reservoirs in regards to Aurora?


----------



## Mayhem

If you build your system around aurora keeping it very simple and using a tube reservoirs it will last upwards of a year easily. Things like cross flow rads, tube reservoirs, d5 pump set to 4 ect ect. Btw that is Aurora 2 by the looks of the particle size not aurora 1.

Mick


----------



## Turbz

2.5 Litres of Blitz Part 2 After 24 hours running in a 4 Alphacool 360 UT60 loop... looks like Blue fizzy drink. An absolute ton of crap came out of them, look at all the stuff floating in it!! These are brand new radiators and they're full of crap even after Part 1 and two previous tap flushes. I am shocked to be honest. Almost feel like I should do another 24 hour Part 2 run.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Yep - what threw me was the 25w - doh. Just ordered the other controller which does support 24V.
> Thanks to everyone who chimed in and advised etc.
> 
> Mark


Got my new controller today - yey I thought, can now run the 450S in full anger. Nope the thing is DOA. Groan








Will have to contact the supplier now for a replacement, are these things ever tested properly before leaving the factory.
Bad show Koolance.

Mark


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> That looks fantastic but ill surmise you've just put it in . We normally do not recommend bay reservoirs only tubes one due to the way aurora works, How ever it will be interesting to see your long term results.
> 
> Mick


That's why I like the Aquacomputers Aquabox pro has constant movement in the res due to the inlet's desing, but I'm sure there are dead spots for a coolant like Aurora to find lol


----------



## Mayhem

@pompss im going to bite my tongue and offer you full replacement of coolants as well as a Full mayhems blitz pro cleaning system. Pm your details and ill get it in the post monday.


----------



## Cavey00

Hence the reason the only coolants I will use are these. 2 months so far with the Sunset Yellow and zero problems, but then I didn't expect them. Mostly used parts so any stuff left in radiators from manufacturing was long gone. Hoping I don't have to use a Blitz kit when doing a color change though.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @pompss im going to bite my tongue and offer you full replacement of coolants as well as a Full mayhems blitz pro cleaning system. Pm your details and ill get it in the post monday.


Your presence here, excellent communication, and generous cs is why I would never use any other brand of coolant. Thanks for what you do.


----------



## Mayhem

Blitz iPro is only needed on new or very old rads if they are dirty and need a good clean out. Blitz basic is a general full system clean and can be used any time and it will remove dirt and particles other cleaning methods cannot remove. Its upto the end user if the wish to use it or not how ever if your system has issues then try it and see how it goes but normally for changing coolants a dammed good flush will do the job.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Your presence here, excellent communication, and generous cs is why I would never use any other brand of coolant. Thanks for what you do.


+1, could not have said it better myself - kudos to Mick and Mayhems.

Mark


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @pompss im going to bite my tongue and offer you full replacement of coolants as well as a Full mayhems blitz pro cleaning system. Pm your details and ill get it in the post monday.


£10 says he doesn't do it properly and wrecks another batch, then says your coolants are the problem again. I'm all for asking questions etc but not acting on it then resisting what's being said is pointless, I learned from that.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @pompss im going to bite my tongue and offer you full replacement of coolants as well as a Full mayhems blitz pro cleaning system. Pm your details and ill get it in the post monday.
> 
> 
> 
> £10 says he doesn't do it properly and wrecks another batch, then says your coolants are the problem again. I'm all for asking questions etc but not acting on it then resisting what's being said is pointless, I learned from that.
Click to expand...

Thats a little bit negative which we should not be. Its about helping each other as comrades in a community







always respect each other and support to the best of our ability.









Yup the more im in this business the more i learn.


----------



## Ramzinho

Hey Mick. I posted a solo question yesterday. wondering how would your Pastel Blue Berry work with the Blue Dye. i want to use pastel in my upcoming two rigs. but the blue is too bright. i want to darken it a bit more. do you recommend using white + Blue Dye or blue berry + blue dye?

also if you have ever tried it or seen people post about it.. can you show me some results?


----------



## newls1

i was told to ask this question in this thread as meyhems may be the supplier of this coolant, so here is my question....

""Could i mix this coolant with just a little distilled water if the 1000mL bottle isn't enough? I'd have to think that this fluid has got to be mixed with water to begin with but not sure so i thought i'd ask first. This is the said coolant"

> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-ekoolant-evo-liquid-coolant-uv-lime-green-premix-1-liter.html


----------



## headoncollision

+1


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Hey Mick. I posted a solo question yesterday. wondering how would your Pastel Blue Berry work with the Blue Dye. i want to use pastel in my upcoming two rigs. but the blue is too bright. i want to darken it a bit more. do you recommend using white + Blue Dye or blue berry + blue dye?
> 
> also if you have ever tried it or seen people post about it.. can you show me some results?


If you after a lighter blue its best to use pastel white + Blue dye. If you after a darker colour more blue dye to pastel blue and some people add a touch of purple to change it more.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newls1*
> 
> i was told to ask this question in this thread as meyhems may be the supplier of this coolant, so here is my question....
> 
> ""Could i mix this coolant with just a little distilled water if the 1000mL bottle isn't enough? I'd have to think that this fluid has got to be mixed with water to begin with but not sure so i thought i'd ask first. This is the said coolant"
> 
> > http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-ekoolant-evo-liquid-coolant-uv-lime-green-premix-1-liter.html


You can add a touch more water but don't add more than 50ml.


----------



## newls1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you after a lighter blue its best to use pastel white + Blue dye. If you after a darker colour more blue dye to pastel blue and some people add a touch of purple to change it more.
> You can add a touch more water but don't add more than 50ml.


Thank you for responding sir, may i ask what would happen if more then 50mL is added? would it just weaken the color?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you after a lighter blue its best to use pastel white + Blue dye. If you after a darker colour more blue dye to pastel blue and some people add a touch of purple to change it more.
> You can add a touch more water but don't add more than 50ml.


Thanks a lot mick







but i wont actually spend 45$ for two pastels + 20$ for dye







.. i will try to go with blue berry and blue dye. waiting restock on FCPU


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newls1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you after a lighter blue its best to use pastel white + Blue dye. If you after a darker colour more blue dye to pastel blue and some people add a touch of purple to change it more.
> You can add a touch more water but don't add more than 50ml.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for responding sir, may i ask what would happen if more then 50mL is added? would it just weaken the color?
Click to expand...

The nano Particals will fall out and the coolant will not be very effective.


----------



## Rahldrac

How is for example the Mayhem X1 blood red in staining? I have always red that you should never use red coolant because it stains everything and gunks up your blocks, and therefore ruining performance?


----------



## Mayhem

Red doesn't gunk up blocks but anything UV red will stain quickly and anything red will stain eventually but they never gunk. The only things that gunks up system are crap tubing, uncleaned rads or people whom don't listen to good advice by people who have been doing this for a very long time and whom have lots of experience







.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Red doesn't gunk up blocks but anything UV red will stain quickly and anything red will stain eventually but they never gunk. The only things that gunks up system are crap tuning, uncleaned rads or people whom don't listen to good advice by people who have been doing this for a very long time and whom have lots of experience
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Could you comment on people saying the dye used in coolants etc is basically food dye? Over on linus tech tips forum when ever anyone asks about moving over to coloured coolant they get told not to because it will gunk up their system so it's best to go with coloured tubing?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Could you comment on people saying the dye used in coolants etc is basically food dye? Over on linus tech tips forum when ever anyone asks about moving over to coloured coolant they get told not to because it will gunk up their system so it's best to go with coloured tubing?


I've used mayhem dyes for a long time and I can testify that they will not gunk up your system. This includes systems running the pastel product (which includes dye) for almost 2yr straight without any issues or adverse temperature effects.

Since dyes color things, they often get blamed for showing you things that are causing problems. Gunking is usually a result of improper maintained and or prepped loop. Common causes are plasticizer from tubes, rad flux or other nasties in rads, or putting chemicals together that don't go together (like CuSO4 based biocide used with ethylene glycol fluids).


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Could you comment on people saying the dye used in coolants etc is basically food dye? Over on linus tech tips forum when ever anyone asks about moving over to coloured coolant they get told not to because it will gunk up their system so it's best to go with coloured tubing?


Lol, it's not food colouring. Food colouring is usually sugar based. Adding sugar into a loop would NOT be a good idea. Algae and microbes and what not. Anyways, coolants have a bad rep on many websites. Essentially most coolants are glycol based, and even a number of ultrapures contain 2% glycol. One of the most popular additives in the market is copper sulphate. Copper sulphate mixed with glycol creates the infamous gunk. Plasticizers, flux, etc. can also get caught in the gunk and make it... thicker for lack of better words.

Basically what happened is people would add copper sulphate to their loop, which already had a coolant, and then it would gunk everything up. Then, of course, blame the coolant. That went on for a long time, and there's a lot of crap coolants on the market, so coolants have a pretty bad reputation in many circles.

I've never had any issues with Mayhems coolants, and would recommend them any time.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Sorry i have nothing to do with such forums. OCN is were we laid our hat and were we support users correctly.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sorry i have nothing to do with such forums. OCN is were we laid our hat and were we support users correctly.


I don't blame you, it's a brewing pot of fan boyism, with a dash of misinformation and bandwagon sprinkles. I think the demographic ranges from 12-16...


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I don't blame you, it's a brewing pot of fan boyism, with a dash of misinformation and bandwagon sprinkles. I think the demographic ranges from 12-16...


I don't think fanboys and fangirls are an issue, it's the blatant disrespect and, as you put it, bandwagon sprinkles that cause issue. Nothing wrong with preferring a specific brand or w/e even if it's inferior, superior, or w/e. It's when discussions get heated, and things turn uncivil that issues begin to rise. Thankfully things on OCN are generally very civil, and even heated debates tend to be free of insults and disrespect. Mods also do a good job of cleaning trash out of threads.

This is all getting a tid bit OT though.









-Z


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I don't think fanboys and fangirls are an issue, it's the blatant disrespect and, as you put it, bandwagon sprinkles that cause issue. Nothing wrong with preferring a specific brand or w/e even if it's inferior, superior, or w/e. It's when discussions get heated, and things turn uncivil that issues begin to rise. Thankfully things on OCN are generally very civil, and even heated debates tend to be free of insults and disrespect. Mods also do a good job of cleaning trash out of threads.
> 
> This is all getting a tid bit OT though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


I'd say it's still on topic as it is answering one of my queries about the products mayhems offer, none the less i've seen enough to pretty much ensure i'm a customer for life to mayhems. I'd link you to the Linus thread but theres no point, i did link sources here but i'll remove them now because it will turn into a poo flinging contest soon.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Apologies if this question has already been asked and answered, but I am curious... Can you successfully combine the Aurora Gold with Oil Black to achieve a slightly golden iridescence within the black, or is it just a pipe dream?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Apologies if this question has already been asked and answered, but I am curious... Can you successfully combine the Aurora Gold with Oil Black to achieve a slightly golden iridescence within the black, or is it just a pipe dream?


If it does work, I wish it would go through two you blocks, cou block, and tow 420 rads one thick one thin....I've wanted to use aurora for years! And that would go with my current build


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Apologies if this question has already been asked and answered, but I am curious... Can you successfully combine the Aurora Gold with Oil Black to achieve a slightly golden iridescence within the black, or is it just a pipe dream?


The short answer? Yes.

It's been done before (I think by Mick himself actually). I can't seem to find the video, but imagine this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BcGc6zM8txk

Except with gold pearls instead of silver. Use X1 with Aurora Booster Gold

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-aurora-2-booster-gold.html

All the same rules and regulations apply. Make sure your system is designed around aurora or it will fall out of suspension.

-Z


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> All the same rules and regulations apply. Make sure your system is designed around aurora or it will fall out of suspension.
> 
> -Z


I tried looking at the Aurora Wiki listed on the first page, but it's a dead link.

Basically a tubular reservoir (and the larger the better), high flow pump, and shallow bends in the tubing (i.e. less bending), right? Using fittings to make turns and rigid acrylic tubing is not a good idea?


----------



## electro2u

Black gold nanofluid:


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> All the same rules and regulations apply. Make sure your system is designed around aurora or it will fall out of suspension.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> I tried looking at the Aurora Wiki listed on the first page, but it's a dead link.
> 
> Basically a tubular reservoir (and the larger the better), high flow pump, and shallow bends in the tubing (i.e. less bending), right? Using fittings to make turns and rigid acrylic tubing is not a good idea?
Click to expand...

I've answered this question so many times I really should just make a copy/paste description for it. Read the bolded parts on this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Thanks, I have not finished yet. Most of all parts have EK logo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> radiators are 2x Alphacool xt45 480 and 1x Alphacool monsta 480, so all blocks are from EK for my parts in the thread. Pumps are DDC from Swiftech mcp 35x.
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, well the rads you have will be a problem. Not only are there a lot of them, but they're all rather thick. *Aurora works best with single row radiators. Every tube has a protrusion in the end chamber. The nano particles can get caught in these end chambers. The best way to avoid this is with high coolant velocities. Now here's where the multi row radiators cause issue. Every time you add another row to the radiator you lower the velocity. 2 row radiators (XT45) have 1/2 the coolant velocity of a single row, and twice as much areas for aurora to get caught.. A 3 row radiator will have 1/3rd the velocity, and 3x more areas for it to get caught, etc. So radiators with more rows not only make the particles more likely to get caught, but they add more places where the particles CAN get caught.*
> 
> Now the particles getting caught there shouldn't effect performance, but you'll lose the aurora effect. Sticking with single row radiators will reduce this. (e.g. HW Labs GT Stealth both original and nemesis, Alphacool ST30, etc.) With the gained space you could even throw in push/pull to get some performance boosts. The GTS Nemesis performs VERY well if you're looking for recommendations. Check out Geggeg's radiator roundup for more info on that.
> 
> *You'll also want to remove the injection plate from your CPU waterblock. This will cost you a couple degrees of core thermals but dramatically increase aurora's particle suspension life.* GPU blocks are really hard to pin for whether they work well with aurora. Literally every block out there is very different. Generally I wouldn't imagine they have many areas for aurora to get caught in, so I wouldn't worry a whole lot about them. I would, however, throw the GPU blocks in series as opposed to parallel to keep coolant velocities up.
> 
> Lastly, if you do move them to series I'd throw in a second pump. 3 Waterblocks is a bit much for a single pump. If, however, you keep em in parallel one pump should be enough. It shouldn't effect aurora's lifespan much to have em in parallel but don't quote me on that.
> [/SIZE]
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

I'll be sure to put together a universal copy/paste later, so I won't be typing out another essay each time I need to describe how to make Aurora compatible loops. Until then, I hope all that helps clear it up.

On a side note, is anyone else's multi-quote tool and reply tools (bold, underline, hyperlink, etc.) missing?

-Z


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I've answered this question so many times I really should just make a copy/paste description for it. Read the bolded parts on this
> I'll be sure to put together a universal copy/paste later, so I won't be typing out another essay each time I need to describe how to make Aurora compatible loops. Until then, I hope all that helps clear it up.
> 
> On a side note, is anyone else's multi-quote tool and reply tools (bold, underline, hyperlink, etc.) missing?
> 
> -Z


Thanks for your efforts on this thread , with all your time and great knowledge

No problem here , im not missing anything


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I've answered this question so many times I really should just make a copy/paste description for it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Read the bolded parts on this
> I'll be sure to put together a universal copy/paste later, so I won't be typing out another essay each time I need to describe how to make Aurora compatible loops. Until then, I hope all that helps clear it up.
> 
> On a side note, is anyone else's multi-quote tool and reply tools (bold, underline, hyperlink, etc.) missing?
> 
> 
> -Z


Could do an article and throw a link in your Sig. Then just refer to the link


----------



## Mayhem

Guys sorry not on much next few days im bissy filing rad grills, packing them and photoing every thing ... My head hurts lol.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Hey Mick. I posted a solo question yesterday. wondering how would your Pastel Blue Berry work with the Blue Dye. i want to use pastel in my upcoming two rigs. but the blue is too bright. i want to darken it a bit more. do you recommend using white + Blue Dye or blue berry + blue dye?
> 
> also if you have ever tried it or seen people post about it.. can you show me some results?


. I used blue pastel and some dark blue dye 4 drops. Just for an example


----------



## Rugburn

I'm using Mayhems X1 UV Clear/Blue in an all acrylic build and one of the loops is turning slighty yellowish...

The loop is about 6 months old and goes through two gpu waterblocks, and two 480 radiators... All blocks and rads are new, and were rinsed thoroughly before installation. I did notice that one loop always having moisture like condensation at the top of the res... Not sure what has caused this...


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Guys sorry not on much next few days im bissy filing rad grills, packing them and photoing every thing ... My head hurts lol.


The fourth row look awesome


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rugburn*
> 
> I'm using Mayhems X1 UV Clear/Blue in an all acrylic build and one of the loops is turning slighty yellowish...
> 
> The loop is about 6 months old and goes through two gpu waterblocks, and two 480 radiators... All blocks and rads are new, and were rinsed thoroughly before installation. I did notice that one loop always having moisture like condensation at the top of the res... Not sure what has caused this...


If I had to take a guess I'd say it's flux from the radiators. What radiators were they, did you clean em out before installation, and if so how did you clean em? Answer those and it'll tell us whether or not it's flux.

-Z


----------



## friskiest

Hey guys,

So I've got the blitz pro kit, but i have several alphacool radiators, consisting of xt45 560, xt45 480, ut60 360 and ut60 240. The solution it will make once mixed with DI is simply not enough for all of these rads.

I read that I can dilute by max 200ml, and leave the solution in the rads for longer than the stated 12 hours as per the instructions in my kit.

I've also read in this thread that the part 1 solution can be re-used - how much longer than the 12 hours should the solution be left in the rads if it were to be re-used?

Is there any truth to the blitz kit being more critical if using pastel coolant, as opposed to x1 clear?

This is all for a new system I am building - have previously used pastels exclusively, even with two non-blitzed st30 rads that have shown no ill effects after a good six month period.

Any comments would be much appreciated


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Guys sorry not on much next few days im bissy filing rad grills, packing them and photoing every thing ... My head hurts lol.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Pretty sweet


----------



## Rugburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If I had to take a guess I'd say it's flux from the radiators. What radiators were they, did you clean em out before installation, and if so how did you clean em? Answer those and it'll tell us whether or not it's flux.
> 
> -Z


Both radiators in that loop are Black Ice Nemesis GTX480.. I flushed both rads with distilled water several times.. I would do this by pouring distilled water in the rad till I saw water through the other hole.. I would cover both holes and shake vigorously, then emptied it out... I did this until I couldn't see anymore stuff come out of the rads..

Note: The other loop has the same amount and type of rads, flushed the same way, and the coolant is still clear..


----------



## Dyaems

I think the answer to my question would be a "yes", because I read it on Mayhem's website, I just want confirmation: Can I mix different colors of Mayhem's Pastel?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> I think the answer to my question would be a "yes", because I read it on Mayhem's website, I just want confirmation: Can I mix different colors of Mayhem's Pastel?


Yes


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> I think the answer to my question would be a "yes", because I read it on Mayhem's website, I just want confirmation: Can I mix different colors of Mayhem's Pastel?


You can, just make sure you keep your ratios of pastel to water correct in your mix


----------



## timepart

Looking to use some Mayhem Pastel in my current rig. I want to make a teal color, but not sure how to go about this. I am guessing to go with the pastel blueberry color and then add some green to it. Any insight on this would be helpful


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Looking to use some Mayhem Pastel in my current rig. I want to make a teal color, but not sure how to go about this. I am guessing to go with the pastel blueberry color and then add some green to it. Any insight on this would be helpful


You might find this previous discussion helpful:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *telegirl81*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *telegirl81*
> 
> Hi all - I've been lurking a lot, but time to start posting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a build going that is white, grey, and teal themed. The coolant color I'd love to have is a pastel teal - any advice on how to get this? I've experimented with the Pastel White concentrate, and then the Blue and Green dyes. However, the blue dye just seems to overpower everything, and the best I end up with is a blue coolant that has a slight greenish tint.
> 
> Thanks in advance, and happy holidays
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blue dye (Not dark blue), and probably a tad bit of yellow would be my guess. Cyphon is better with dying pastel than I am, so might want to wait for his two cents.
> 
> -Z
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Aha, I didn't think of yellow - thank you! I had read online that with paints, teal is made from blue and green, so that's where I started - but I was surprised at how dominant the blue dye was! I will give yellow a shot too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, this is the color I'm hoping to get close to:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> [...] That teal color wouldn't be hard to make as with the blue being to strong water it down before you use it. E.g 1 ml to 10ml of water then slowly add it and yes id mi it with Blue + and Mix of Blue and yellow (green). The alternative would be to use ocean blue as that is blue/green in color alone http://mayhems.co.uk/store/ocean-blue-15ml.html This is not as dark as blue.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The ocean blue will actually get close to that on its own. You could try a bit of yellow to bring out the green tones a bit more, but keep in mind that the yellow is probably one of the weaker dyes
> 
> This is someone's build using ocean blue, you can see that it has more of a green quality to it than standard blue
Click to expand...


----------



## Mayhem

More grills complete .. my fingers are bleeding haha. "no renders"


----------



## tipes

To Mayhems,

Grills looking good - no pain, no gain. Lol.

Mark


----------



## Benjiw

How much heat do your radiators put out Mr Mayhems? I might be on the market for one of your rads too soon!


----------



## daily1994

Hey Mayhem, I had a quick question!

First, I'm trying to get an affect similar to the picture. Right now I have UV green tubing and UV Laser Green Mayhem Dye. My question is what would be the best lighting method to get that affect. I've heard of the UV LEDs and the cold cathodes but don't know much about either.

Thanks!


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daily1994*
> 
> Hey Mayhem, I had a quick question!
> 
> First, I'm trying to get an affect similar to the picture. Right now I have UV green tubing and UV Laser Green Mayhem Dye. My question is what would be the best lighting method to get that affect. I've heard of the UV LEDs and the cold cathodes but don't know much about either.
> 
> Thanks!


To get that effect you just need these led strip. They are the exact led strip in that build

http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/uv-12-30cm-dimmable-pc-led-strip.html

Does mayhem have any purple UV reactive dye?


----------



## daily1994

Awesome! Thanks for your help


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> How much heat do your radiators put out Mr Mayhems? I might be on the market for one of your rads too soon!


Oh, if only there was a solid number of heat dissipation in cooling. Absolutely nothing is linear... EVER.

Check out this for info on it's performance.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1520512/the-quad-rad-roundup

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daily1994*
> 
> Hey Mayhem, I had a quick question!
> 
> First, I'm trying to get an affect similar to the picture. Right now I have UV green tubing and UV Laser Green Mayhem Dye. My question is what would be the best lighting method to get that affect. I've heard of the UV LEDs and the cold cathodes but don't know much about either.
> 
> Thanks!


Not sure what that builds but as a general rule of thumb for UV effects I always advise cold cathodes. LEDs only emit around 8% UV light. The rest is in the visible spectrum (purple, blue, etc.). UV cathodes emit MUCH less visible light, and a LOT more UV light. Just my









-Z


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I HATE cold cathodes. Nasty unreliable pieces of garbage, not to mention they need a big huge ugly inverter that puts out a LOT of heat. I had a Logisys one melt down and almost take my rig and maybe my house up in flames. They have no place in anyone's computer build imho, not even if they were free.

I've used UV LED strips from Darkside (Dazmode), IceModz, and from Oznium and they all work really well to make your UV components / coolants have that 'pop' just like you can see in that picture above.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> How much heat do your radiators put out Mr Mayhems? I might be on the market for one of your rads too soon!


That my friend is a very open ended question as there are just so many variables....
what flow rate, which fans and at what rpm, push, pull or push&pull fans, even which coolant is used









In short - there is no single answer to your question, however.......
very soon there will be some data published which details heat dissipation covering 9 variables of gpm/rpm in push/pull set-up.
Can't say more until published


----------



## Mayhem

Benjiw They remove a lot of heat now for me to state a wattage is kinda of hype as we can throw any finger at you and make them look good how ever we leave that to the reviews, what i can say is "i personally know they beat every rad on the market with the correct fans" how ever that is my bias point of view.

Cold cathodes all the way i can source some real cold cathodes and real inverters that don't explode on you how ever i don't think many would be willing to pay the price they cost. I do have some really good Led light strips from dark mods and was surprised how well they perform and are definitely much better than some of the cheaper options out there.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Oh, if only there was a solid number of heat dissipation in cooling. Absolutely nothing is linear... EVER.
> 
> Check out this for info on it's performance.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1520512/the-quad-rad-roundup
> 
> -Z
> Not sure what that builds but as a general rule of thumb for UV effects I always advise cold cathodes. LEDs only emit around 8% UV light. The rest is in the visible spectrum (purple, blue, etc.). UV cathodes emit MUCH less visible light, and a LOT more UV light. Just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


Im curious Z , have you ever used the Darkside Led UV lights , they are clearly better than any other led i have seen , i already have 2 of them not had the chance to use them yet , but if they are no good then i will get cathodes , but if the vids i have seen and that pic above are anything to go by , then their UV effect and ambient light is a nice light colour wise too


----------



## DeviousAddict

For case lighting I have just bought the NZXT Hue http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/98-hue-case-accessory.html
It comes with a 2 meter strip, the ability to have practically any colour you want and to turn it off if you want







(the stirp is extenable to)


----------



## Mayhem

Any colour except UV active ...


----------



## DeviousAddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Any colour except UV active ...


Yeah, i should've mentioned that sorry, no UV option.


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> So I've got the blitz pro kit, but i have several alphacool radiators, consisting of xt45 560, xt45 480, ut60 360 and ut60 240. The solution it will make once mixed with DI is simply not enough for all of these rads.
> 
> I read that I can dilute by max 200ml, and leave the solution in the rads for longer than the stated 12 hours as per the instructions in my kit.
> 
> I've also read in this thread that the part 1 solution can be re-used - how much longer than the 12 hours should the solution be left in the rads if it were to be re-used?
> 
> Is there any truth to the blitz kit being more critical if using pastel coolant, as opposed to x1 clear?
> 
> This is all for a new system I am building - have previously used pastels exclusively, even with two non-blitzed st30 rads that have shown no ill effects after a good six month period.
> 
> Any comments would be much appreciated


Anyone?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Anyone?


I would get 2 blitz kits or buy them from mayhems direct and see about buying a "kit" w/ just the extra solution.

If you want to reuse part 2 use the same 12 hours. Imo

Blitz part 1 is more important for the radiators but part 2 is needed to properly flush part1 and the critical thing for optimum use with certain coolants is getting the proper pH from the coolant that is coming out of your system when flushing part 2 out, as it will lower the pH of the coolant if it is still present. Likewise if using concentrate you want to be sure the di water you use to mix it with is the proper pH.


----------



## Bluemustang

After i run part 2 through my loop and rinse out a few times with distilled, should i take the bottom rad out to shake every last bit of distilled out before i fill her up with pastel ice white or is a little left in the bottom alright? My case/WC setup will be quite similar to this singularity build https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=radmkXgOhCk#t=1270 except ill have 1 480 at top and 1 at bottom and my drain valve will be in the same location as the build posted.

I'd imagine/guess after draining only a couple ounces at most should be left at the bottom.


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> After i run part 2 through my loop and rinse out a few times with distilled, should i take the bottom rad out to shake every last bit of distilled out before i fill her up with pastel ice white or is a little left in the bottom alright? My case/WC setup will be quite similar to this singularity build https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=radmkXgOhCk#t=1270 except ill have 1 480 at top and 1 at bottom and my drain valve will be in the same location as the build posted.
> 
> I'd imagine/guess after draining only a couple ounces at most should be left at the bottom.


If you tip the whole case you'll get nearly all of the distilled out. Personally I measure the liquid going in and measure it again as it's going out, so I can be sure that most, if not all, the liquid has been drained.


----------



## Barefooter

Blitz Kit Question

I'm planning a new build, and using the blitz kit. I know how to use the part 1 on the rads.

My question is, if I'm using all new components, should I use part 2 on my whole system?

Or can I just flush part 2 through the rads after part 1 and I'm good to go since all the other components will be new?

Also should I get 1 or 2 kits for one 420 rad and one 280 rad?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Blitz Kit Question
> 
> I'm planning a new build, and using the blitz kit. I know how to use the part 1 on the rads.
> 
> My question is, if I'm using all new components, should I use part 2 on my whole system?
> 
> Or can I just flush part 2 through the rads after part 1 and I'm good to go since all the other components will be new?
> 
> Also should I get 1 or 2 kits for one 420 rad and one 280 rad?


I always wash all components even new ones. I would assemble the loop and run part 2 on the whole thing. It is always good to dissemble all parts, give a wash with soap/detergent before put to use. After you can rinse it with distil to get rid of the tap water (I do it for reservoirs and blocks too). But running blitz part 2 on the loop assembled is a good strategy too and what is recommended in Mayhems instructions.


----------



## Mayhem

As said above its always best to run part 2 though the whole system to clean every thing up and leave it in pristine condition.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Anyone?


well, i am also waiting for the same answer....


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> So I've got the blitz pro kit, but i have several alphacool radiators, consisting of xt45 560, xt45 480, ut60 360 and ut60 240. The solution it will make once mixed with DI is simply not enough for all of these rads.
> 
> I read that I can dilute by max 200ml, and leave the solution in the rads for longer than the stated 12 hours as per the instructions in my kit.
> 
> I've also read in this thread that the part 1 solution can be re-used - how much longer than the 12 hours should the solution be left in the rads if it were to be re-used?
> 
> Is there any truth to the blitz kit being more critical if using pastel coolant, as opposed to x1 clear?
> 
> This is all for a new system I am building - have previously used pastels exclusively, even with two non-blitzed st30 rads that have shown no ill effects after a good six month period.
> 
> Any comments would be much appreciated


Oky to answer you questions ->

"So I've got the blitz pro kit, but i have several alphacool radiators, consisting of xt45 560, xt45 480, ut60 360 and ut60 240. The solution it will make once mixed with DI is simply not enough for all of these rads."

http://mayhems.co.uk/store/cleaning/ you can see we have a part one only kit seprate. Im sorry it will still come with goggles and gloves as it is our responsibility to make sure we provide protection and do our due diligence. If you how ever do not wish for the extras contact [email protected] and speak to them they will remove them and reduce the price but i can say it will only save you a small amount. That way you can clean you whole system with no issues.

"I read that I can dilute by max 200ml, and leave the solution in the rads for longer than the stated 12 hours as per the instructions in my kit."

The most up to date instructions come with the kit follow them and you will have no issues.

I've also read in this thread that the part 1 solution can be re-used - how much longer than the 12 hours should the solution be left in the rads if it were to be re-used?

Mayhems Blitz Part One can be reused and how long depends on how big your rads are and how much copper there is in there. There is "no" definitive answer and you will have to use your own judgment. We will not print miss information and guess work, only facts.

This is all for a new system I am building - have previously used pastels exclusively, even with two non-blitzed st30 rads that have shown no ill effects after a good six month period.

Before Blitz was created and Before a Certain Rad maker released what i can only describe and cheap unclean very dirty rads there was no issues as all other manufacturers strived to "clean" up their acts and produced factory cleaned products much better than they did in the past. A certain company then decided to simply cut corners and flood the market and in doing this it then affected "many coloured" coolants (they did not do there own due diligence nor research). literary it is akin to stepping back in the dark ages. Now if you have been water cooling many milina and remember the first rads, these all had to be hand cleaned as best as possible for many hours and basically over the years as you (the end user) have been "treated" with better cleaner products and your responsibility as a end user has diminished and many think "oh ill just stick it in and it will be fine". Well No that not correct.

Now with modern day system using small pin array or fin's in the water cooling block this "crap" that is left in the radiator is a massive issue and possibly can cause unrecoverable damage if not sorted correctly (fact). So after quite a few complaints and much research into what caused issues with Red X1, XT1, EK Red, Pastel Red, Pastel Orange and a few other companies products whom some people approached us on we found the answer and produced a fix. Now if you wish to use Blitz that is upto you how ever if you use a Rad that has the issue, use pastel and it changes colour that is not our fault, its the users for not doing the research and looking up why it happened.

Life some times users have to take responsibility for there own actions and not look for a scapegoat. Life


----------



## RpeeKooz

need some help with aurora 2 red.what colour led should my fans have to get the aurora to look its best..white or red ???


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> need some help with aurora 2 red.what colour led should my fans have to get the aurora to look its best..white or red ???


White. Whenever you are using non-UV colored coolants, white is EASILY the best color LEDs to use to show off the coolant. Really makes the pastels/aurora 'POP'. Any other color demures the hue of the pastel.

I personally refuse to use anything except white for any build anymore. Other LED colors just.....suck for basically anything you design.

Exception, like I said, being UV. Which you'd need UV emitting lights such as Darkside UV LED strips (only reason I say this is because they really do have some of the best UV LED strips out there).


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> White. Whenever you are using non-UV colored coolants, white is EASILY the best color LEDs to use to show off the coolant. Really makes the pastels/aurora 'POP'. Any other color demures the hue of the pastel.
> 
> I personally refuse to use anything except white for any build anymore. Other LED colors just.....suck for basically anything you design.
> 
> Exception, like I said, being UV. Which you'd need UV emitting lights such as Darkside UV LED strips (only reason I say this is because they really do have some of the best UV LED strips out there).


thanks mate i thought it would be better just checking before i blow 200 on fans
which fans would u pick?
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=26655&zenid=858e98b538b2156c32c33df4d0dd0b19

http://www.umart.com.au/umart1/pro/Products-details.phtml?id=10&id2=227&bid=2&sid=142681

being controlled by a aquero 6 pro


----------



## friskiest

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I would get 2 blitz kits or buy them from mayhems direct and see about buying a "kit" w/ just the extra solution.
> 
> If you want to reuse part 2 use the same 12 hours. Imo
> 
> Blitz part 1 is more important for the radiators but part 2 is needed to properly flush part1 and the critical thing for optimum use with certain coolants is getting the proper pH from the coolant that is coming out of your system when flushing part 2 out, as it will lower the pH of the coolant if it is still present. Likewise if using concentrate you want to be sure the di water you use to mix it with is the proper pH.


Thanks.

I am aware of the procedure needed to properly flush the rads - what I meant was could I use the concentrate and mix with DI to make a total of 1200ml of part 1, as it would stretch it a bit further
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky to answer you questions ->
> 
> "So I've got the blitz pro kit, but i have several alphacool radiators, consisting of xt45 560, xt45 480, ut60 360 and ut60 240. The solution it will make once mixed with DI is simply not enough for all of these rads."
> 
> http://mayhems.co.uk/store/cleaning/ you can see we have a part one only kit seprate. Im sorry it will still come with goggles and gloves as it is our responsibility to make sure we provide protection and do our due diligence. If you how ever do not wish for the extras contact [email protected] and speak to them they will remove them and reduce the price but i can say it will only save you a small amount. That way you can clean you whole system with no issues.
> 
> "I read that I can dilute by max 200ml, and leave the solution in the rads for longer than the stated 12 hours as per the instructions in my kit."
> 
> The most up to date instructions come with the kit follow them and you will have no issues.
> 
> I've also read in this thread that the part 1 solution can be re-used - how much longer than the 12 hours should the solution be left in the rads if it were to be re-used?
> 
> Mayhems Blitz Part One can be reused and how long depends on how big your rads are and how much copper there is in there. There is "no" definitive answer and you will have to use your own judgment. We will not print miss information and guess work, only facts.
> 
> This is all for a new system I am building - have previously used pastels exclusively, even with two non-blitzed st30 rads that have shown no ill effects after a good six month period.
> 
> Before Blitz was created and Before a Certain Rad maker released what i can only describe and cheap unclean very dirty rads there was no issues as all other manufacturers strived to "clean" up their acts and produced factory cleaned products much better than they did in the past. A certain company then decided to simply cut corners and flood the market and in doing this it then affected "many coloured" coolants (they did not do there own due diligence nor research). literary it is akin to stepping back in the dark ages. Now if you have been water cooling many milina and remember the first rads, these all had to be hand cleaned as best as possible for many hours and basically over the years as you (the end user) have been "treated" with better cleaner products and your responsibility as a end user has diminished and many think "oh ill just stick it in and it will be fine". Well No that not correct.
> 
> Now with modern day system using small pin array or fin's in the water cooling block this "crap" that is left in the radiator is a massive issue and possibly can cause unrecoverable damage if not sorted correctly (fact). So after quite a few complaints and much research into what caused issues with Red X1, XT1, EK Red, Pastel Red, Pastel Orange and a few other companies products whom some people approached us on we found the answer and produced a fix. Now if you wish to use Blitz that is upto you how ever if you use a Rad that has the issue, use pastel and it changes colour that is not our fault, its the users for not doing the research and looking up why it happened.
> 
> Life some times users have to take responsibility for there own actions and not look for a scapegoat. Life






Thanks for the reply Mick, it's much appreciated.

I will add a second Part 1 solution to my stash and work from there.

Thanks for the great products.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> thanks mate i thought it would be better just checking before i blow 200 on fans
> which fans would u pick?
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=26655&zenid=858e98b538b2156c32c33df4d0dd0b19
> 
> http://www.umart.com.au/umart1/pro/Products-details.phtml?id=10&id2=227&bid=2&sid=142681
> 
> being controlled by a aquero 6 pro



http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=24637
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=30489
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=26655&zenid=858e98b538b2156c32c33df4d0dd0b19

In order from best pick to worst (keep in mind all three of those fans are fantastic).

I'd personally choose the eLoop out of those if I could since it is the best performer to noise made out of the three. It is a bit pricy though. The Phobya branded eLoop is the same as the Noiseblocker branded one, except without all of the fancy accessories. The Phanteks is their 120mm version of their utterly fantastic F140SP. I haven't personally heard much about the 120mm version, but I know the 140mm version was in the top three best 140mm fans to get. The reason I put the Cougars last, is purely because they work best in vertical positions. If you mount them as a *top, case exhaust*, they tend to click loudly (and annoyingly too). But barring that, they are fantastic performers and are really silent to boot.

All three undervolt well too. So it silence is what you are aiming for, then those are three good picks.

Or you could eat the shipping and order the Gentle Typhoons from CoolerGuys over here in the states, since they technically do ship to Australia. But that will cost an arm and a leg in shipping costs.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> thanks mate i thought it would be better just checking before i blow 200 on fans
> which fans would u pick?
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=26655&zenid=858e98b538b2156c32c33df4d0dd0b19
> 
> http://www.umart.com.au/umart1/pro/Products-details.phtml?id=10&id2=227&bid=2&sid=142681
> 
> being controlled by a aquero 6 pro


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=24637
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=30489
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=26655&zenid=858e98b538b2156c32c33df4d0dd0b19
> In order from best pick to worst (keep in mind all three of those fans are fantastic).
> 
> I'd personally choose the eLoop out of those if I could since it is the best performer to noise made out of the three. It is a bit pricy though. The Phobya branded eLoop is the same as the Noiseblocker branded one, except without all of the fancy accessories. The Phanteks is their 120mm version of their utterly fantastic F140SP. I haven't personally heard much about the 120mm version, but I know the 140mm version was in the top three best 140mm fans to get. The reason I put the Cougars last, is purely because they work best in vertical positions. If you mount them as a *top, case exhaust*, they tend to click loudly (and annoyingly too). But barring that, they are fantastic performers and are really silent to boot.
> 
> All three undervolt well too. So it silence is what you are aiming for, then those are three good picks.
> 
> Or you could eat the shipping and order the Gentle Typhoons from CoolerGuys over here in the states, since they technically do ship to Australia. But that will cost an arm and a leg in shipping costs.


Another option with the white leds are:

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=14215

and the phanteks one with white leds

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9_510


----------



## Bertovzki

I cant get Blitz in New Zealand , and i doubt it can be imported , customs is over the top with what you can bring in , another OCN mate had some Fuji polly thermal pads pass through here on its way to Singapore and it was removed from his package under the grounds it could be corrosive , what a joke.

So i have 2 XSPC rads , EX 280 and RX 360 , i need to clean them, but i hear they are quite clean anyway, i have my doubts about the EX , as it was no ware near as good quality as the RX .
I have Phosphoric acid at work , is it really necessary to acid wash them , or just use the bi carb method ?

Id prefer to use a mild acid wash if i knew the ratio of acid / water , to flush any flux and nasty stuff out.

Could someone please help with this answer , the best solution , ratio of acid , we have rust removers and metal prep washes at work, the metal prep for e.g has 303 g/L Phosphoric acid , what would i dilute that too ?


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> I cant get Blitz in New Zealand , and i doubt it can be imported , customs is over the top with what you can bring in , another OCN mate had some Fuji polly thermal pads pass through here on its way to Singapore and it was removed from his package under the grounds it could be corrosive , what a joke.
> 
> So i have 2 XSPC rads , EX 280 and RX 360 , i need to clean them, but i hear they are quite clean anyway, i have my doubts about the EX , as it was no ware near as good quality as the RX .
> I have Phosphoric acid at work , is it really necessary to acid wash them , or just use the bi carb method ?
> 
> Id prefer to use a mild acid wash if i knew the ratio of acid / water , to flush any flux and nasty stuff out.
> 
> Could someone please help with this answer , the best solution , ratio of acid , we have rust removers and metal prep washes at work, the metal prep for e.g has 303 g/L Phosphoric acid , what would i dilute that too ?


The thermal pads is just a joke, I would not let that slide. Customs in some countries is truly a joke. I hope you can get your hands on the blitz kit.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> The thermal pads is just a joke, I would not let that slide. Customs in some countries is truly a joke. I hope you can get your hands on the blitz kit.


No company in New Zealand stocks it , but many stock mayhems , so i will not even try and import any , just need to make my own


----------



## cyphon

Big Mayhems shipment in today









X1 clear concentrate
Pastel Blueberry Blue
Aurora booster silver
Red dye
Blue dye

This will be for a redo on fluid in my madhouse build (doing x1 + red dye), which will be one of the last 2 final touches. the pastel, blue dye, and booster is for my newest project, polar vortex v2. Both logs in my sig


----------



## Bluemustang

Hey which of these 2 choices would be a better idea? I've got 2 480 rads, alphacool ut60 and xt45. From what ive seen thats going to take a little more than 1 liter of part 1.

So option 1 is to dilute to a little more than 1 liter and clean both rads at the same time.

Option 2 is to clean rad 1 then use a little of part 1 from rad 1 to clean rad 2 with. Then rinse rad 1 with distilled and let it sit wet for the 12 hours or so rad 2 is being cleaned for.

I'm just concerned if option 2 is both leaving dampness in the rad for half a day and worse leaving some acid in the rad that much longer (even though ill rinse with distilled to let it sit it still wont get part 2 raising the PH until rad 2 is finished).

Thoughts?


----------



## ALT F4

Question that's definitely been asked before, If I buy the Aurora 2 concentrate and apply it within my loop will the aurora effect apply to the pastel red? Takes me about 4L to fill my loop so it's not a quick flush and fix issue


----------



## Mayhem

We have exported to NZ with no issues in the past. If how ever Customers refuse we will simply refund. No problem.

ALT F4 there is only one way to find out and if you system takes 4 ltrs that just screams no dont do it at me.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Hey which of these 2 choices would be a better idea? I've got 2 480 rads, alphacool ut60 and xt45. From what ive seen thats going to take a little more than 1 liter of part 1.
> 
> So option 1 is to dilute to a little more than 1 liter and clean both rads at the same time.
> 
> Option 2 is to clean rad 1 then use a little of part 1 from rad 1 to clean rad 2 with. Then rinse rad 1 with distilled and let it sit wet for the 12 hours or so rad 2 is being cleaned for.
> 
> I'm just concerned if option 2 is both leaving dampness in the rad for half a day and worse leaving some acid in the rad that much longer (even though ill rinse with distilled to let it sit it still wont get part 2 raising the PH until rad 2 is finished).
> 
> Thoughts?


Thoughts, Mayhem? I know you don't like to give non factual info, but I won't hold it against you









I just need to know the best way to proceed (once I finally get the rest of my flipping stuff from PPCS that've already held me up for over a week, that is).


----------



## Mayhem

As a sales person id say buy 2 part ones as a water cooling enthusiasts id water it down and and leave it longer.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> As a sales person id say buy 2 part ones as a water cooling enthusiasts id water it down and and leave it longer.


So can i assume if i water it down by 20% i should leave it 20% longer? Also my instructions werent that clear on the matter. It just says to leave it for 6-12 hours, i guess 12 it is then? (also i thought i remember hearing 24 hours in a video or something)

Thanks


----------



## Mayhem

Upto 24 Hours. Never any more than that.


----------



## Charlio99

If I mix biocide+destilled water+red dye, could be corrosion problems?

Sorry for my english, I'm Spanish


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have exported to NZ with no issues in the past. If how ever Customers refuse we will simply refund. No problem.
> 
> ALT F4 there is only one way to find out and if you system takes 4 ltrs that just screams no dont do it at me.


Ok thanks Mick for heads up , i will place an order soon with your website then in that case

Thanks


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Not sure what that builds but as a general rule of thumb for UV effects I always advise cold cathodes. LEDs only emit around 8% UV light. The rest is in the visible spectrum (purple, blue, etc.). UV cathodes emit MUCH less visible light, and a LOT more UV light. Just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Im curious Z , have you ever used the Darkside Led UV lights , they are clearly better than any other led i have seen , i already have 2 of them not had the chance to use them yet , but if they are no good then i will get cathodes , but if the vids i have seen and that pic above are anything to go by , then their UV effect and ambient light is a nice light colour wise too
Click to expand...

I have not, however LEDs are LEDs. Unless they designed and assembled their own light emitting diodes in house, then used those for their LED strips it's doubtful their efficiency will be different than any of the other ones. Seeing as how that's definitely not the case, they likely buy the parts from an established manufacturer of electrical components and assemble them in their own workshop. It's not that hard, all you need is some LED bulbs, a resistor, some wire, some heatshrink, and a basic know-how of parallel circuits.

Please note I did not say they wouldn't give your parts a good UV effect, I said they emit a LOT of blue/purple light compared to their UV light. If you do not mind having a dark blue/purple glow then there isn't much of a conflict of interest there.

-Z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlio99*
> 
> If I mix biocide+destilled water+red dye, could be corrosion problems?
> 
> Sorry for my english, I'm Spanish


That's not really something that can be answered without knowing the metals you are using in the loop. A list of the components you plan on using would give us all the info we need to answer that question.

-Z


----------



## electro2u

With Darkside UV led strips:


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> With Darkside UV led strips:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [


Looks absolutely brilliant. There's still that blue/purple glow around the rig. It looks absolutely brilliant in that rig, but for some colour combinations it may throw off the... how should I say.. flow, of the aesthetics. Green/white for e.g.

-Z


----------



## Charlio99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Not sure what that builds but as a general rule of thumb for UV effects I always advise cold cathodes. LEDs only emit around 8% UV light. The rest is in the visible spectrum (purple, blue, etc.). UV cathodes emit MUCH less visible light, and a LOT more UV light. Just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Im curious Z , have you ever used the Darkside Led UV lights , they are clearly better than any other led i have seen , i already have 2 of them not had the chance to use them yet , but if they are no good then i will get cathodes , but if the vids i have seen and that pic above are anything to go by , then their UV effect and ambient light is a nice light colour wise too
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have not, however LEDs are LEDs. Unless they designed and assembled their own light emitting diodes in house, then used those for their LED strips it's doubtful their efficiency will be different than any of the other ones. Seeing as how that's definitely not the case, they likely buy the parts from an established manufacturer of electrical components and assemble them in their own workshop. It's not that hard, all you need is some LED bulbs, a resistor, some wire, some heatshrink, and a basic know-how of parallel circuits.
> 
> Please note I did not say they wouldn't give your parts a good UV effect, I said they emit a LOT of blue/purple light compared to their UV light. If you do not mind having a dark blue/purple glow then there isn't much of a conflict of interest there.
> 
> -Z
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Charlio99*
> 
> If I mix biocide+destilled water+red dye, could be corrosion problems?
> 
> Sorry for my english, I'm Spanish
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's not really something that can be answered without knowing the metals you are using in the loop. A list of the components you plan on using would give us all the info we need to answer that question.
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

I will be using the EK Supermacy EVO (Copper version, not nickel)
Alphacool 360 UT60
Alphacool 360 ST30
EKWB R9290X Copper waterblock


----------



## Mayhem

Just so people know we have such confidence in our radiators we will warranty our products as long as a real receipt is produced even to a second hand user. This means if you are not the original buyer of say a Havoc 360 and you have proof of purchase we will fulfill the warranty said item and support it. When we warranty an item its the item we warranty not the person.

Update fan grills now are the warehouse pic below of packing


----------



## DNMock

Just wanted to share this with you guys. I have two of the Phobya 1080mm rads in my loop and did the fill and shake cleaning method on them and ran pump on them for about an hour doing the bucket trick of pulling in water from the top and dumping the out into the bottom so the particles stayed on the bottom.

Well, after 4 months of running them in my loop I drained it the other day and this is what I ended up with:




Note the fluid was a dark blue/green so ignore the color of the fluid in the bucket, that's the dye, the flux, however, is obviously from the rads.

There was more that went down the drain with the fluid, but I tried to keep the junk and goop to see how much there was.

Fortunately my reservoir is quite large, is connected right after the rads, and the in/out ports are up fairly high so the majority of that junk gathered in the bottom of the reservoir without clogging everything to hell.

Am gonna run the radiator blitz on both of them before I re-assemble the loop.

Just wanted to point out that, yeah, the rads from what Mick calls "a certain company" really, really need to be cleaned out hardcore before being used.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Just wanted to share this with you guys. I have two of the Phobya 1080mm rads in my loop and did the fill and shake cleaning method on them and ran pump on them for about an hour doing the bucket trick of pulling in water from the top and dumping the out into the bottom so the particles stayed on the bottom.
> 
> Well, after 4 months of running them in my loop I drained it the other day and this is what I ended up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the fluid was a dark blue/green so ignore the color of the fluid in the bucket, that's the dye, the flux, however, is obviously from the rads.
> 
> There was more that went down the drain with the fluid, but I tried to keep the junk and goop to see how much there was.
> 
> Fortunately my reservoir is quite large, is connected right after the rads, and the in/out ports are up fairly high so the majority of that junk gathered in the bottom of the reservoir without clogging everything to hell.
> 
> Am gonna run the radiator blitz on both of them before I re-assemble the loop.
> 
> Just wanted to point out that, yeah, the rads from what Mick calls "a certain company" really, really need to be cleaned out hardcore before being used.


Dang I wonder if this is what has been coming out of my thermaltake all in one rad...


Also, not sure if it was the XT1 UV blue coolant i was using or just the combination of aluminum and copper... but my primochill tubing has a severe case of discoloration. Loop was assembled in middle of november and was disassembled last night...


----------



## emsj86

That's what soft tubing does. I ran blue pastel for two months on soft before going rigid and it stain it a blueish purple.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> That's what soft tubing does. I ran blue pastel for two months on soft before going rigid and it stain it a blueish purple.


I plan on doing a UV white with the changes to this loop with new tubing, still soft tubing though. Will white stain the same? Not worried about it in my other build as I am running clear coolant, colored tubing.


----------



## Mayhem

white will never stain.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I have not, however LEDs are LEDs. Unless they designed and assembled their own light emitting diodes in house, then used those for their LED strips it's doubtful their efficiency will be different than any of the other ones. Seeing as how that's definitely not the case, they likely buy the parts from an established manufacturer of electrical components and assemble them in their own workshop. It's not that hard, all you need is some LED bulbs, a resistor, some wire, some heatshrink, and a basic know-how of parallel circuits.
> 
> Please note I did not say they wouldn't give your parts a good UV effect, I said they emit a LOT of blue/purple light compared to their UV light. If you do not mind having a dark blue/purple glow then there isn't much of a conflict of interest there.
> 
> -Z


Thanks for feedback , i will maybe get some Cathodes too then and see what suits best , i do like some of that blue purple look for sure , but i also like to be able to control light colour


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Dang I wonder if this is what has been coming out of my thermaltake all in one rad...
> 
> 
> Also, not sure if it was the XT1 UV blue coolant i was using or just the combination of aluminum and copper... but my primochill tubing has a severe case of discoloration. Loop was assembled in middle of november and was disassembled last night...


That block looks like it's been put to use


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> That's what soft tubing does. I ran blue pastel for two months on soft before going rigid and it stain it a blueish purple.


This is my dislike of soft tubing. A few pages back there was a user with rigid tubing that suffered the yellow stains. I can't recall the issue so I will try and dig back. When I saw his post it made me pause my order for rigid fittings.


----------



## Mayhem

I have an idea for some tubing i wish to make but it would require a new type of fitting (nothing out there would cover it) and a new way of bending and making tubing. It would be nice to say my idea but it would get stolen lol.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I have an idea for some tubing i wish to make but it would require a new type of fitting (nothing out there would cover it) and a new way of bending and making tubing. It would be nice to say my idea but it would get stolen lol.


Oh a mystery! You are going to drive so many people crazy lol


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have exported to NZ with no issues in the past. If how ever Customers refuse we will simply refund. No problem.
> 
> ALT F4 there is only one way to find out and if you system takes 4 ltrs that just screams no dont do it at me.


I will find out









Will place the order soon but I want to make sure the red pastel coolant will not completely block out the aurora 2 effects. I need to wait a while before I get the rigid fittings and tubing so I'd like to see aurora 2 live in one of my loops until then


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I have an idea for some tubing i wish to make but it would require a new type of fitting (nothing out there would cover it) and a new way of bending and making tubing. It would be nice to say my idea but it would get stolen lol.


I'm still patiently waiting for the soft tubing that wont cloud.


----------



## tipes

So are we all. Lol









Mark


----------



## electro2u

Pyrex tubing--go!


----------



## gheriksen

Hey guys,

I built my first custom loop 5 months ago and so far it has all worked out very well. However there is some gunk starting to build up inside the cpu block. I can see the inner parts getting very cloudy (EK Supremacy EVO). Also my rads were just cleaned by the good old Fill-Shake-repeat procedure, so I guess it's about time to replace my cheap tubing and do a blitz.

Does anyone here know how much Part 1 I need for one 360 Alphacool UT60 and one EK XTC 280? Is the 1 litre from the pro kit enough?

Thank you


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gheriksen*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I built my first custom loop 5 months ago and so far it has all worked out very well. However there is some gunk starting to build up inside the cpu block. I can see the inner parts getting very cloudy (EK Supremacy EVO). Also my rads were just cleaned by the good old Fill-Shake-repeat procedure, so I guess it's about time to replace my cheap tubing and do a blitz.
> 
> Does anyone here know how much Part 1 I need for one 360 Alphacool UT60 and one EK XTC 280? Is the 1 litre from the pro kit enough?
> 
> Thank you


it should be enough. You can have an idea looking here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493339/the-radiator-volume-thread


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I have an idea for some tubing i wish to make but it would require a new type of fitting (nothing out there would cover it) and a new way of bending and making tubing. It would be nice to say my idea but it would get stolen lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh a mystery! You are going to drive so many people crazy lol
Click to expand...

Yeah, he's addicted to cliff hangers.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gheriksen*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I built my first custom loop 5 months ago and so far it has all worked out very well. However there is some gunk starting to build up inside the cpu block. I can see the inner parts getting very cloudy (EK Supremacy EVO). Also my rads were just cleaned by the good old Fill-Shake-repeat procedure, so I guess it's about time to replace my cheap tubing and do a blitz.
> 
> Does anyone here know how much Part 1 I need for one 360 Alphacool UT60 and one EK XTC 280? Is the 1 litre from the pro kit enough?
> 
> Thank you


What tubing were you using? If it's cloudy it may be a plasticizers issue. If it's flux (i.e. an issue with radiator contamination) the coolant itself would discolour. Still a good idea to blitz the rads since you're going to be rerouting tubing anyways. Alphacool one will probably take around 1.1liters, EK one will probably take less than that. You can just reuse the part one on both of em

-Z


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Yeah, he's addicted to cliff hangers.
> 
> Alphacool one will probably take around 1.1liters
> 
> -Z


450-500mL for a UT60 360.


----------



## gheriksen

Thanks guys. I guess 1 litre is enough then.


----------



## DeviousAddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I have an idea for some tubing i wish to make but it would require a new type of fitting (nothing out there would cover it) and a new way of bending and making tubing. It would be nice to say my idea but it would get stolen lol.


If you build it I will buy it! 1 step closer to a full mayhems build


----------



## Ksireaper

So, i noticed a bit of algae growth in my loop. I use all XSPC parts and hard acrylic tubing, distilled water with a kill coil. Is it possible to clean the loop and kill the algae with the Mayhems Blitz kit? Would really love to avoid taking it all apart due to time constraints.


----------



## Mayhem

Yes it is possible you would only need part two.

Mayhems Blitz Part two not only is it PH Neutral its also a combined Disinfectant and Detergent and is based on a QAC Biocide. Just never leave in longer than 24 hours.


----------



## Ksireaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes it is possible you would only need part two.
> 
> Mayhems Blitz Part two not only is it PH Neutral its also a combined Disinfectant and Detergent and is based on a QAC Biocide. Just never leave in longer than 24 hours.


TYVM. I will be purchasing some this week then. I'll have to clean the loop in a week or so. Appreciate the info!! How long do you recommend to run it in the loop? i have 2 x 480 rads and 3 blocks, pump and res.


----------



## Bertovzki

I just ordered the Blitz pro kit from the Mayhems website , already have my Yellow green UV from a local reseller


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ksireaper*
> 
> So, i noticed a bit of algae growth in my loop. I use all XSPC parts and hard acrylic tubing, distilled water with a kill coil. Is it possible to clean the loop and kill the algae with the Mayhems Blitz kit? Would really love to avoid taking it all apart due to time constraints.


I'd also abandon the kill coil IMHO. They aren't 100% effective, and I've seen algae continue to grow a number of times. If you're looking for a simple biocide, and don't want to use dye, then use pt nuke pHN, if you want to use dyes use X1 or XT1.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ksireaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes it is possible you would only need part two.
> 
> Mayhems Blitz Part two not only is it PH Neutral its also a combined Disinfectant and Detergent and is based on a QAC Biocide. Just never leave in longer than 24 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> TYVM. I will be purchasing some this week then. I'll have to clean the loop in a week or so. Appreciate the info!! How long do you recommend to run it in the loop? i have 2 x 480 rads and 3 blocks, pump and res.
Click to expand...

Run it for the full 24 hours and no longer. then rinse it out. If its really really bad you might need to do a second flush how ever ive not seen any ones loop that bad before. Btw kill coils are not effective if the system is in direct dun light and you don't have enough silver ions in the water.


----------



## Ksireaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Run it for the full 24 hours and no longer. then rinse it out. If its really really bad you might need to do a second flush how ever ive not seen any ones loop that bad before. Btw kill coils are not effective if the system is in direct dun light and you don't have enough silver ions in the water.


Ty for the info. I think i have a large loop and only used 1 coil, so maybe not enough. I will be using some of your Biocide this time around.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd also abandon the kill coil IMHO. They aren't 100% effective, and I've seen algae continue to grow a number of times. If you're looking for a simple biocide, and don't want to use dye, then use pt nuke pHN, if you want to use dyes use X1 or XT1.
> 
> -Z


Agree with ya, down with the kill coils....completely overrated, lol

For sake of being mayhems thread, you got biocide extreme if you want a CuSO4 biocide (also dye compatible)

Additionally, X1 and XT1 both come in clear as well


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ksireaper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Run it for the full 24 hours and no longer. then rinse it out. If its really really bad you might need to do a second flush how ever ive not seen any ones loop that bad before. Btw kill coils are not effective if the system is in direct dun light and you don't have enough silver ions in the water.
> 
> 
> 
> Ty for the info. I think i have a large loop and only used 1 coil, so maybe not enough. I will be using some of your Biocide this time around.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd also abandon the kill coil IMHO. They aren't 100% effective, and I've seen algae continue to grow a number of times. If you're looking for a simple biocide, and don't want to use dye, then use pt nuke pHN, if you want to use dyes use X1 or XT1.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Agree with ya, down with the kill coils....completely overrated, lol
> 
> For sake of being mayhems thread, you got biocide extreme if you want a CuSO4 biocide (also dye compatible)
> 
> Additionally, X1 and XT1 both come in clear as well
Click to expand...

On this note^ CuSo4 will work with dyes, but it will eat away at UV reactive dyes over time. If you want UV effects stick to X1 or XT-1.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems brushed stainless steel fan grill is to be used as a decorative item only, it will not protect you from high speed spinning fans. Please do not push objects though the grills or you may cause damaged to your self or your equipment.The stainless steel is sourced from with in the UK and Laser cut with in the UK. The Mayhems stainless steel fan grills are produced in the UK by Mayhems and uses British sourced stainless steel from local foundries

120mm x 120mm x 1.2mm Version shown Below

http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070011P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070021P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070031P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070041P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070051P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070061P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070071P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070081P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070091P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070101P1424086449291658


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems brushed stainless steel fan grill is to be used as a decorative item only, *it will not protect you from high speed spinning fans. Please do not push objects though the grills or you may cause damaged to your self or your equipment.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The stainless steel is sourced from with in the UK and Laser cut with in the UK. The Mayhems stainless steel fan grills are produced in the UK by Mayhems and uses British sourced stainless steel from local foundries
> 
> 120mm x 120mm x 1.2mm Version shown Below
> 
> http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070011P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070021P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070031P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070041P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070051P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070061P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070071P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070081P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070091P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070101P1424086449291658










I sense a story there. Are you at liberty to disclose?

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

No just covering our asses from someone / anyone who may think different.







. I don't think anyone uses metal blade fans any more except for servers .. lol


----------



## Rahldrac

So I already have a loop up and running, and have no problems with it. But i really want to try some color coolant, since the one I have now is clear.
But i am a bit confused by all this talk about blitz and dye?
If I buy two bottles of the 1L pastel red, do I need to add anything? I will of course full everything in the system with distilled water, and change tubing.
Can you add dye to pastel to change color?


----------



## Mayhem

It all depends on what Rads you have in you system and how clean they are.

Pastel can be coloured anyway you wish.

Updated 240mm Fan grill Pics (think the represent the grill better)


----------



## Rahldrac

So I already have a loop up and running, and have no problems with it. But i really want to try some color coolant, since the one I have now is clear.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It all depends on what Rads you have in you system and how clean they are.
> 
> Pastel can be coloured anyway you wish.


Sorry to bother you more, but you know so much, that I just have to try to take advantage of your knowledge! I have read a lot in this thread, but some of it is confusing.

It seems now that my reseller (aquatuning.de) is out of the red pastel premix. Am i correct in presuming that Mayhem dye (for example deep red), does not contain any corrosion inhibitors or biocides?
Is it possible (or more importantly, recommended) to add the dye to for example Aqua Computer Double Protect Ultra? I have heard that the dye might not go well with all premixes? even though they are transparent from before?

I have 3x alphacool ST30 240mm and 1x alphacool ST30 360mm, but I haven't seen any particles in my system after installing them (cleaning them first of course).

Thank you very much for your time!
And those grills looks really nice!









Edit: And if things are as i presume, that the dye does not contain any biocide or anticorrosive (would be hard to measure out I guess). I see that you have a Mayhem Biocide. But what about anti corrosive?


----------



## Mayhem

First off because you are running Alphacool's you will need to use the mayhems Blitz Pro kit to clean it before using any red coolants or colour, if not no matter what coolant you use that is red will turn purple.

Once you have Blitzed your system then yes you can add the red dye to any premixed coolants from whom ever you wish.

None of the dyes we sell on there own contain any biocide of inhibitors.


----------



## marshymellows

Should i be worried?


----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No just covering our asses from someone / anyone who may think different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I don't think anyone uses metal blade fans any more except for servers .. lol


Isn't it sad that you have to cover yourself from common sense these days.

Are the rad grills going to be available in Australia at all?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should i be worried?


Hard to see as the camera flash is right in your highlighted area.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Hard to see as the camera flash is right in your highlighted area.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Hard to see as the camera flash is right in your highlighted area.
Click to expand...

A list of your build as in water cooling components would be handy such as rad, tubing ect ect. I may as well hold up a stick and say should i be worried.

@andyv you would need to speak to you shops and see if they will be getting stock in. Its some thing i have no control over.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> A list of your build as in water cooling components would be handy such as rad, tubing ect ect. I may as well hold up a stick and say should i be worried.
> 
> @andyv you would need to speak to you shops and see if they will be getting stock in. Its some thing i have no control over.


120 PE rad and 240 PE rad, impact full cover block and a GTX 770 full cover block. when i cleaned it i went with the normal shake and rinse method also i am using hard tubing


----------



## Mayhem

ill presume PE is EK. There should be no issues how ever sometimes a rinse an clean isn't enough. Me personaly i would empty the system out and run the fluids though a filter then run Blitz Part 2 though the system and see what crap comes out.

Thats all i can suggest for now.

Mick


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> ill presume PE is EK. There should be no issues how ever sometimes a rinse an clean isn't enough. Me personaly i would empty the system out and run the fluids though a filter then run Blitz Part 2 though the system and see what crap comes out.
> 
> Thats all i can suggest for now.
> 
> Mick


Yeah thats right. you dont happen to know if there is any retalier that sells the blitz kit in sweden? cant find any :/


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> 
> Should i be worried?


You are talking about the hairline crack in your block you have circled in red are you not ? thats what it looks like to me and is fairly clear photo regardless of flash.
And yes id be worried if this is what you are talking about , and replace the block


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> You are talking about the hairline crack in your block you have circled in red are you not ? thats what it looks like to me and is fairly clear photo regardless of flash.
> And yes id be worried if this is what you are talking about , and replace the block


It's not a cracK fortunately. It's gunk building up, there should be a better pic in the post after my first one. Thanks for replying though


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Run it for the full 24 hours and no longer. then rinse it out. If its really really bad you might need to do a second flush how ever ive not seen any ones loop that bad before. Btw kill coils are not effective if the system is in direct dun light and you don't have enough silver ions in the water.


I'm in the situation where I couldn't use my pump while part 2 was in the system. Can I simply flush the system with DI several times and make a fresh batch of part 2 to clean the system afterwards?

Mainly concerned about there being a minimum time between single usages of part 2 in a system.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Anyone know if Primochill Advance LRT and Primochill Pro LRT tubing have the same reputation for no plastisizer or discoloration?
Have only used primochill Advance LRT bloodshed red and cleaer so far and looking into getting this. http://www.performance-pcs.com/primoflex-pro-lrt-white-tubing-7-16in-id-x-5-8in-od.html#Features
Good or bad idea?


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Anyone know if Primochill Advance LRT and Primochill Pro LRT tubing have the same reputation for no plastisizer or discoloration?
> Have only used primochill Advance LRT bloodshed red and cleaer so far and looking into getting this. http://www.performance-pcs.com/primoflex-pro-lrt-white-tubing-7-16in-id-x-5-8in-od.html#Features
> Good or bad idea?


The Primochill Pro version is known to have plasticizer issues, I'd stick with Advance.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> The Primochill Pro version is known to have plasticizer issues, I'd stick with Advance.


Meh, kinda not what I wanted to hear... Looking for Uv reactive and Advance is not uv reactive unfortunately. Starting to think it is just a good idea to abandon the whole UV reactive build and just stick to regular white accents.


----------



## EAnushan

Wondering if anyone can confirm before I order. I'm building a dual loop system. One of the loops will have blood red pastel. The other will have a relatively dark blue pastel.

From what I gather, I'm going to need a few litres of Pastel White concentrate (250mL makes 1L), and a bottle of 15mL Red Dye as well as a bottle of 15mL Blue Dye. Does this sound right?

I also noticed that Mayhems has Deep red dye as well. Should I be picking that up instead of the Red dye?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EAnushan*
> 
> Wondering if anyone can confirm before I order. I'm building a dual loop system. One of the loops will have blood red pastel. The other will have a relatively dark blue pastel.
> 
> From what I gather, I'm going to need a few litres of Pastel White concentrate (250mL makes 1L), and a bottle of 15mL Red Dye as well as a bottle of 15mL Blue Dye. Does this sound right?
> 
> I also noticed that Mayhems has Deep red dye as well. Should I be picking that up instead of the Red dye?


Sounds bout right. Keep in mind blood red requires some blue. You can save yourself a lot of time by starting with pastel blue and Patel red and adding red and blue dye.

Deep red is a darker red that, to me, has a touch of a blue quality to it


----------



## BECHEZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems brushed stainless steel fan grill is to be used as a decorative item only, it will not protect you from high speed spinning fans. Please do not push objects though the grills or you may cause damaged to your self or your equipment.The stainless steel is sourced from with in the UK and Laser cut with in the UK. The Mayhems stainless steel fan grills are produced in the UK by Mayhems and uses British sourced stainless steel from local foundries
> 
> 120mm x 120mm x 1.2mm Version shown Below
> 
> http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070011P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070021P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070031P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070041P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070051P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070061P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070071P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070081P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070091P1424086449291658 http://imageupper.com/i/?S0200010070101P1424086449291658


Can you put up some pics with the fan grills on EK Vardar fans at all?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Is it me or does the last grill resemble the main window of the millennium falcon from star wars lol or possibly a tie fighter


----------



## Mayhem

There is no relation to any star wars film in our designs .. not at all, nope total figment of your imagination, nope didn't happen ........... la la la im not seeing or hearing this .......









(our living room btw the lego isnt mine its all my daughters)




So as you can see nope there is no resemblance to any star wars in them grills....


----------



## Mayhem

*Mayhems Warranty from products bought from http://www.frozencpu.com or http://heatsinkfactory.com/*

Just to let you know if you bought any of our products via http://www.frozencpu.com or http://heatsinkfactory.com you warrnty lies with us and us alone via [email protected] If you have any problems contact me direct and i will sort it out. The same goes for all support for Mayhems products bought from http://www.frozencpu.com or http://heatsinkfactory.com









We made the products, we support the products .........


----------



## charliebrown

You sir are a stand up guy I will be buying more of your products sunset yellow in my 900d build next week has anyone used the UV yellow if so how does it compare to sunset doing a steelers theme build

So is heatsink affiliated with frozen they got good stuff might order from them


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> You sir are a stand up guy I will be buying more of your products sunset yellow in my 900d build next week has anyone used the UV yellow if so how does it compare to sunset doing a steelers theme build
> 
> So is heatsink affiliated with frozen they got good stuff *might order from them*


Probably not the best of ideas at the moment . . . . .









Darlene


----------



## charliebrown

Gotcha


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> You sir are a stand up guy I will be buying more of your products sunset yellow in my 900d build next week has anyone used the UV yellow if so how does it compare to sunset doing a steelers theme build
> 
> So is heatsink affiliated with frozen they got good stuff might order from them


Assuming you mean Heatsinkfactory, yeah probably not a great idea. Quite frankly I'd never ordered from them, and didn't know they were a thing until the FCPU crisis and it would brought up, but they are located at 311 East Chestnut St. FCPU is located at 311 East Chestnut St. Yeah, same building that no one's been in for the past week.

-Z


----------



## sverreb

I have a system that runs X1 red coolant currently. I am considering to switch this over to red pastel, but considering this is a big rig (TH10A) getting the system entirely drained and cleaned incurs a lot of downtime and effort I am looking to see if there are any quick-fix solutions. Considering I am not really changing the color tone, only moving it to pastel, my question is if X1 and pastel is chemically compatible and if it is OK that there is some percentage* of X1 fluid mixed with the pastel (I would be using concentrate so I can up the concentration a bit to maintain the correct nano-particle density)

*) The system takes 4l, but getting the last 0.5l out takes some heroic effort


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sverreb*
> 
> I have a system that runs X1 red coolant currently. I am considering to switch this over to red pastel, but considering this is a big rig (TH10A) getting the system entirely drained and cleaned incurs a lot of downtime and effort I am looking to see if there are any quick-fix solutions. Considering I am not really changing the color tone, only moving it to pastel, my question is if X1 and pastel is chemically compatible and if it is OK that there is some percentage* of X1 fluid mixed with the pastel (I would be using concentrate so I can up the concentration a bit to maintain the correct nano-particle density)
> 
> *) The system takes 4l, but getting the last 0.5l out takes some heroic effort


There won't be any chemical incompatibilities. It's actually possible to mix some X1 with pastel from the get go to boost its anti-corrosive. Mixing XT-1 and Pastel on the other hand would be a really bad idea so don't confuse the two. Just be sure to get the Pastel to distilled, or in this case Pastel to distilled and a bit of X1 correct.

Do be advised X1 has around a 2 year span before it needs to be changed out. If your rig has been running for a year and a half or such it may be worth it to put in the effort since you'd only get a few months out of it.
-Z


----------



## sverreb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> There won't be any chemical incompatibilities. It's actually possible to mix some X1 with pastel from the get go to boost its anti-corrosive. Mixing XT-1 and Pastel on the other hand would be a really bad idea so don't confuse the two. Just be sure to get the Pastel to distilled, or in this case Pastel to distilled and a bit of X1 correct.
> 
> Do be advised X1 has around a 2 year span before it needs to be changed out. If your rig has been running for a year and a half or such it may be worth it to put in the effort since you'd only get a few months out of it.
> -Z


I am aware XT-1 is incompatible. I am not using that, I prefer to keep the toxicity levels to a minimum. 

Thanks for your confirmation that X1 and pastel is compatible.

Regarding the lifetime question. What is the breakdown mechanism? Usually I would think that it should be OK to replace most of a degraded fluid if what you replace it with is compatible. By your last comment it seems you feel it is necessary to fully flush and clean out all traces of degraded fluid. This, to me, implies it has a breakdown mode in which it isn't just causing it to become ineffective but actively harmful to the system. Is this actually the case?

Keep in mind I am proposing to replace some 80-90% of the original fluid with fresh fluid.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> There is no relation to any star wars film in our designs .. not at all, nope total figment of your imagination, nope didn't happen ........... la la la im not seeing or hearing this .......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (our living room btw the lego isnt mine its all my daughters)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So as you can see nope there is no resemblance to any star wars in them grills....


Yeah, no way at all that star wars was an inspiration for the grills...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Assuming you mean Heatsinkfactory, yeah probably not a great idea. Quite frankly I'd never ordered from them, and didn't know they were a thing until the FCPU crisis and it would brought up, but they are located at 311 East Chestnut St. FCPU is located at 311 East Chestnut St. Yeah, same building that no one's been in for the past week.
> 
> -Z


FCPU crisis? I must have missed this... What happened?


----------



## DarthBaggins

lmao, must be seeing things again I guess. .


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sverreb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> There won't be any chemical incompatibilities. It's actually possible to mix some X1 with pastel from the get go to boost its anti-corrosive. Mixing XT-1 and Pastel on the other hand would be a really bad idea so don't confuse the two. Just be sure to get the Pastel to distilled, or in this case Pastel to distilled and a bit of X1 correct.
> 
> Do be advised X1 has around a 2 year span before it needs to be changed out. If your rig has been running for a year and a half or such it may be worth it to put in the effort since you'd only get a few months out of it.
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> I am aware XT-1 is incompatible. I am not using that, I prefer to keep the toxicity levels to a minimum.
> 
> Thanks for your confirmation that X1 and pastel is compatible.
> 
> Regarding the lifetime question. What is the breakdown mechanism? Usually I would think that it should be OK to replace most of a degraded fluid if what you replace it with is compatible. By your last comment it seems you feel it is necessary to fully flush and clean out all traces of degraded fluid. This, to me, implies it has a breakdown mode in which it isn't just causing it to become ineffective but *actively harmful to the system*. Is this actually the case?
> 
> Keep in mind I am proposing to replace some 80-90% of the original fluid with fresh fluid.
Click to expand...

That's a question for Mick. I don't know the exact chemical makeup. It almost certainly wouldn't damage your system, but it may or may not mess with Pastel. Again, I'm not a mayhems rep nor do I know the specifics of the makeup so I can't answer that for sure. I'm one of those "Better safe than sorry, uber paranoid" system maintenance types.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Assuming you mean Heatsinkfactory, yeah probably not a great idea. Quite frankly I'd never ordered from them, and didn't know they were a thing until the FCPU crisis and it would brought up, but they are located at 311 East Chestnut St. FCPU is located at 311 East Chestnut St. Yeah, same building that no one's been in for the past week.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> FCPU crisis? I must have missed this... What happened?
Click to expand...

There gone, at least for a while.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1540656/official-frozencpu-shuts-its-doors










-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> That's a question for Mick. I don't know the exact chemical makeup. It almost certainly wouldn't damage your system, but it may or may not mess with Pastel. Again, I'm not a mayhems rep nor do I know the specifics of the makeup so I can't answer that for sure. I'm one of those "Better safe than sorry, uber paranoid" system maintenance types.
> 
> -Z
> There gone, at least for a while.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1540656/official-frozencpu-shuts-its-doors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


1) that really sucks
2) ugh, why am I so unlucky...I placed an order on the 9th, which I of course have not received (at least I know why now..). Went to packing phase and never heard again...emails of course are ignored. Seems like every one was in the dark still on the 9th, so there is no way I could have known. Guess that's $200 down the drain unless other manufacturers are handling things the way Mayhem is. Anyone know if Swiftech is? The 2 motors were the bulk of the order I placed, and I can live without the rest of the stuff
3) ok, I'll stop hijacking this thread...


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 1) that really sucks
> 2) ugh, why am I so unlucky...I placed an order on the 9th, which I of course have not received (at least I know why now..). Went to packing phase and never heard again...emails of course are ignored. Seems like every one was in the dark still on the 9th, so there is no way I could have known. Guess that's $200 down the drain unless other manufacturers are handling things the way Mayhem is. Anyone know if Swiftech is? The 2 motors were the bulk of the order I placed, and I can live without the rest of the stuff
> 3) ok, I'll stop hijacking this thread...


If you have an order with frozen you should get ahold of your card company for a charge back. Nobody is filling those orders, manufacturers included. Mick is saying he will cover any warranty on his products that were previously purchased from Frozen.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> If you have an order with frozen you should get ahold of your card company for a charge back. Nobody is filling those orders, manufacturers included. Mick is saying he will cover any warranty on his products that were previously purchased from Frozen.


Hmm, happened to use a gift card on this one... May be harder to handle than a CC, lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sverreb*
> 
> I have a system that runs X1 red coolant currently. I am considering to switch this over to red pastel, but considering this is a big rig (TH10A) getting the system entirely drained and cleaned incurs a lot of downtime and effort I am looking to see if there are any quick-fix solutions. Considering I am not really changing the color tone, only moving it to pastel, my question is if X1 and pastel is chemically compatible and if it is OK that there is some percentage* of X1 fluid mixed with the pastel (I would be using concentrate so I can up the concentration a bit to maintain the correct nano-particle density)
> 
> *) The system takes 4l, but getting the last 0.5l out takes some heroic effort


you can always use something like this http://www.lowes.com/pd_138026-15649-PPDRP-1_0__?productId=1015177 (drill pump) to get the leftovers of the liquid after the drain out of the system, specially if you do no plan on re-use the liquid coming out. Just make sure you have ports open along the loop (rad and reservoir for example) and you got the in and out of the drill pump correctly.


----------



## Mayhem

@sverreb Stupid question but why not flush DI water through your system then you'll have say 5 to 10% di water left not some of left over coolant







. Its not a good idear to leave old coolant in your system..


----------



## Domiro

I'm running part 2 of the blitz kit and a lot of debris has gotten trapped in the CPU block. Will this eventually come out or is there something to "help" the process?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> I'm running part 2 of the blitz kit and a lot of debris has gotten trapped in the CPU block. Will this eventually come out or is there something to "help" the process?


Depends...Set pump power to maximum. But without a filter on the loop to get those debris they will eventually find their way back to the cpu block. You might need to drain and dismount the block to clean it. I usually use a inline filter while running blitz part 2:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build/70

if you have some sort of filter like that one perhaps this is a good time to place on the loop. If not you might try several cycles of filling and draining the blitz part 2 of your loop and passing the blitz 2 solution through a coffee paper filter in before filling it back to the loop. In that way you might get rid of most debris. hope it helps


----------



## Domiro

Sadly no filter in the system. Most of the gunk is in the res though so that helps.

I'll up the pump and clean the blocks once done.


----------



## sverreb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @sverreb Stupid question but why not flush DI water through your system then you'll have say 5 to 10% di water left not some of left over coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its not a good idear to leave old coolant in your system..


The short answer: I'm lazy  Or rather, I don't want to spend effort and expense on something which is useless.

Ideally if 10% old fluid just reduce the lifetime of new fluid by ~10%, I wouldn't bother with flushing but rather schedule the next replacement a month or two earlier. This of course makes a lot of assumptions about the break down mechanisms of the fluid which I am not prepare to just jump to, hence the questions.

Flushing with DI only really brings down the consentration by a decade pr. flush (But still requires 3-4l pr. flush, which actually means that there is some logistics involved), but that still means the concentration of old fluid only goes down from 10% to 1% by a single flush.

My understanding so far though is that there isn't anything downright incompatible in X1 or in it's breakdown products with pastel, which confirms that dilution is indeed sufficient. What I do not understand yet is what level of dilution I need to aim for. If something much less than 1% is needed my effort is better spent on pulling out the lower rads which is where the remaining fluid tends to pool and empty them fully so i have much less remaining fluid before the flush, rather than flushing several times with DI.

Again keep in mind this is in a TH10A, a case which really needs a ramp when servicing 

@Gabrielzm: I do have a mains powered eheim I can use as a drainage pump. the problem is pooling in the bottom radiators below the level of the fittings. Once the water level falls below this the pump would only draw air through the radiator, this is particularly an issue with the CPU side radiatoras I used the side holes rather than the end holes in the tanks for the fittings so this radiator is left nearly full after draining. I can reduce this by lifting the front a bit, but there will still be left 2-300ml in this radiator alone*.

*) Radiator or fittings manufacturers seriously should make a thread in tube to extend into the radiator tank to move the effective inlets/outlets to the other side of the tanks, a bit like bitspower aqua pipe II, but shorter to fit radiators. This would help bleeding and draining immensely.


----------



## Mayhem

TBH with what you said youll be fine for at least another 2 years at 10%.


----------



## IT Diva

If you use this style of aquapipe, you could cut it to just the right length, and have a nice vacuum pick-up tube . . .



http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-female-g1-4-shining-silver-aqua-pipe-ii-fitting.html

D.


----------



## sverreb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> TBH with what you said youll be fine for at least another 2 years at 10%.


Thanks, good to know.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you use this style of aquapipe, you could cut it to just the right length, and have a nice vacuum pick-up tube . . .


Yup, I was considering doing just that for the top rads, but i found that putting the outlets on the endports rather than the bottom ports resolved the bleeding. I would absolutely go for these if I had to use the bottom ports on top mounted rads.

Didn't think about the impact on draining and the bottom rads until after the system was operational unfortunately.


----------



## Mayhem

Its with grate sadness that ST aka http://www.specialtech.co.uk has closed down. As per the norm all warranties on any of our products fall with us and if you have any issues just let us know and we will sort them out. We wish Steve and Ayd and staff all the best in the future.

Mick


----------



## Rahldrac

Is there any way to get the blitz sent to Poland with less than 20 euro in shipping? I really want it, but shipping is 50% of the price extra!


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its with grate sadness that ST aka http://www.specialtech.co.uk has closed down. As per the norm all warranties on any of our products fall with us and if you have any issues just let us know and we will sort them out. We wish Steve and Ayd and staff all the best in the future.
> 
> Mick


Yet more bad news - what a shame, I have ordered from them many times over the years.

Mark


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its with grate sadness that ST aka http://www.specialtech.co.uk has closed down. As per the norm all warranties on any of our products fall with us and if you have any issues just let us know and we will sort them out. We wish Steve and Ayd and staff all the best in the future.
> 
> Mick


U.S. loses FCPU, and UK loses specialtech? This is madness!

-Z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Is there any way to get the blitz sent to Poland with less than 20 euro in shipping? I really want it, but shipping is 50% of the price extra!


Have you tried ordering from Aquatuning? They're based in Germany so shipping might be notably less due less distance and what not.

-Z


----------



## tipes

They are dropping like flies today - such a shame about both retailers. Shall miss specialtech.

Mark


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> *U.S. loses FCPU, and UK loses specialtech? This is madness!*
> 
> -Z
> Have you tried ordering from Aquatuning? They're based in Germany so shipping might be notably less due less distance and what not.
> 
> -Z


In pretty much the same week...This is pandemonium......


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> U.S. loses FCPU, and UK loses specialtech? This is madness!
> 
> -Z
> Have you tried ordering from Aquatuning? They're based in Germany so shipping might be notably less due less distance and what not.
> 
> -Z


Also docmicro and highflow are continental Europe stores I have previously bought stuff and can recomend.


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Also docmicro and highflow are continental Europe stores I have previously bought stuff and can recomend.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Have you tried ordering from Aquatuning? They're based in Germany so shipping might be notably less due less distance and what not.
> 
> -Z


Thanks, unfortunately both cost around 20 euro for shipping. Seems to be lowest cost. Luckily I go to school with several Germans, so I will try to make them my package mule during easter break


----------



## DNMock

Real quick, finishing up Part 2 on blitz. Loop's too big to fully drain, gotta flush.

It's 30 min flushing w/ tap ---> 10-15 min worth of flushing with Distilled Water ---> Drain as much as possible ----> add coolant

sound correct?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Real quick, finishing up Part 2 on blitz. Loop's too big to fully drain, gotta flush.
> 
> It's 30 min flushing w/ tap ---> 10-15 min worth of flushing with Distilled Water ---> Drain as much as possible ----> add coolant
> 
> sound correct?


pretty much what i did, only I couldn't run directly off the tap. so i flushed it about 15 minutes with tap water being poured in from a funnel, then ran the system half hour or so with DI. repeated this process until there were no more bubbles in the res.


----------



## Domiro

Ran DI 3 times for 30 after blitz 2.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Honestly, as long as the bubbles are completely gone out f the loop and you run DI water flush for 15-30 minutes before adding coolant, you should be gold.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> pretty much what i did, only I couldn't run directly off the tap. so i flushed it about 15 minutes with tap water being poured in from a funnel, then ran the system half hour or so with DI. repeated this process until there were no more bubbles in the res.


Use a drill pump and a 5 gallon bucket. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-300-GPH-Drill-Pump-Kit-PUP63-HD/204667248?N=5yc1vZbqk2

That's how I've flushed in the past and how I got all the air out of the rads in order to get enough head pressure for the pumps to start being able to do it on their own.

Anyway thanks for the info guys. Just wanted to be safe


----------



## Domiro

First flush for the system and Alphacool rads, so there was a good amount of gunk.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Use a drill pump and a 5 gallon bucket. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-300-GPH-Drill-Pump-Kit-PUP63-HD/204667248?N=5yc1vZbqk2
> 
> That's how I've flushed in the past and how I got all the air out of the rads in order to get enough head pressure for the pumps to start being able to do it on their own.
> 
> Anyway thanks for the info guys. Just wanted to be safe


My problem was there was no way to seal any tubing onto the res fill port. So I ended up electrical taping the end of the funnel to make a somewhat decent seal, then dumped in the water from a pitcher, was slow going as I had to separate a run of tubing to force the water to go one way through the majority of the loop to the drain valve. it worked fine


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> My problem was there was no way to seal any tubing onto the res fill port. So I ended up electrical taping the end of the funnel to make a somewhat decent seal, then dumped in the water from a pitcher, was slow going as I had to separate a run of tubing to force the water to go one way through the majority of the loop to the drain valve. it worked fine


tried doing that but it was just brutal so I cut a line put a couple shut off valves on both sides:



Then attached some fittings onto the drill pump:



That way I could just pump into one end until the flow started coming smoothly out the other, close the valves, put it back together and open the valves back up. Turned that epic slow beat down of bleeding all the air out bubble by bubble into a 10 minutes job.









Doing that I was able to get around 6 liters of dyed fluid out of my loop and the Blitz 2 solution into it in about 30 minutes.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> tried doing that but it was just brutal so I cut a line put a couple shut off valves on both sides:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then attached some fittings onto the drill pump:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That way I could just pump into one end until the flow started coming smoothly out the other, close the valves, put it back together and open the valves back up. Turned that epic slow beat down of bleeding all the air out bubble by bubble into a 10 minutes job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doing that I was able to get around 6 liters of dyed fluid out of my loop and the Blitz 2 solution into it in about 30 minutes.


That is brilliant. I had non of those things available. No spare WC parts what so ever other than a couple plugs which was just enough to seal off the run that goes from the drain valve to the res. But I had patience for once which helped


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Those drill pumps can come in handy for all sorts of uses, especially for the price (assuming you have a drill). They don't have a lot of power, and you wouldn't want to have to use one for a long period, but they are self-priming, meaning they are able to pull liquid through an empty hose to the pump, which is something you can't typically do with a watercooling pump.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Those drill pumps can come in handy for all sorts of uses, especially for the price (assuming you have a drill). They don't have a lot of power, and you wouldn't want to have to use one for a long period, but they are self-priming, meaning they are able to pull liquid through an empty hose to the pump, which is something you can't typically do with a watercooling pump.


That would be very handy


----------



## fast_fate

I've update the info back in post 8713 and spammed it again here to save everyone having to go back and forward.
The thermal test chamber required a complete redesign and ground up rebuild to get the accuracy and repeatability of the results that I wanted.
Sooo much more info will be available later today









Mayhems Havoc 360





As Mayhems is aware, the test sample sent to me is for inclusion in a large round up 360mm radiators.
So, I will not be posting any comparison data in here right now, nor offering any opinions or other information








Just some data.....
But once the round up is published all the comparison data will be available against at least 15 other 360mm rads, and that's just stage 1 of the round up.









The tests are fan RPM based using Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans in Push&Pull and in such is really only comparable to other testing done with the same fans.
So until the RRU'15 is published, the data posted below is really to get some thermal data available for the Havoc 360









So..... here's what I am prepared to release now,

Delta T's are a vital part of a Radiators Thermal Performance calculations, so here's the info in bar chart and plot curve formats...





And the actual Performance Measurement - presented in Watts Dissipated per 10 Delta T - W/10ΔT





Thanks to Mayhems for the sample and opportunity to put it under scrutiny.
Hope that OCN members find the info useful


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Is there any way to get the blitz sent to Poland with less than 20 euro in shipping? I really want it, but shipping is 50% of the price extra!


Send me a PM i will help you out.

Mick

@fast_fate Thank you for all you work on these rads.

MIck


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @fast_fate Thank you for all you work on these rads.
> 
> MIck


No Probs - here's a restriction plot to tide you guys over


----------



## Benjiw

So what you're saying is mayhems rads are the best choice to have right now? SOLD!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> So what you're saying is mayhems rads are the best choice to have right now? SOLD!


I'm saying to check available info and make informed decisions.
The 4 plots in the 1st post are all referencing itself at different flow rates and fan speeds.
The second post is restriction level against an average restriction cpu block to give a reference point.

None of the info posted here today compares to other radiators.
I'm certain Mayhems will post a link later today with more info to help you make you decision


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I've update the info back in post 8713 and spammed it again here to save everyone having to go back and forward.
> The thermal test chamber required a complete redesign and ground up rebuild to get the accuracy and repeatability of the results that I wanted.
> Sooo much more info will be available later today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems Havoc 360
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As Mayhems is aware, the test sample sent to me is for inclusion in a large round up 360mm radiators.
> So, I will not be posting any comparison data in here right now, nor offering any opinions or other information
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some data.....
> But once the round up is published all the comparison data will be available against at least 15 other 360mm rads, and that's just stage 1 of the round up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tests are fan RPM based using Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans in Push&Pull and in such is really only comparable to other testing done with the same fans.
> So until the RRU'15 is published, the data posted below is really to get some thermal data available for the Havoc 360
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So..... here's what I am prepared to release now,
> 
> Delta T's are a vital part of a Radiators Thermal Performance calculations, so here's the info in bar chart and plot curve formats...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the actual Performance Measurement - presented in Watts Dissipated per 10 Delta T - W/10ΔT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to Mayhems for the sample and opportunity to put it under scrutiny.
> Hope that OCN members find the info useful


awesome work as always fast







I could not help but notice that the data is quite different from the data you got out of the XSPC RX 360 mm v2 which was at the core of a long and bitter argument a couple of months ago in regard to the havoc. The data clearly show to me that the havoc is a different beast altogether.


----------



## fast_fate

You had to pull out the can opener didn't you.
I believe that publicly, the discussion is over.
The internal flow path between the 2 rads is totally different, so different results are to be expected.
I will not comment on this subject again in the thread, and tbh, neither should anybody else.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I've update the info back in post 8713 and spammed it again here to save everyone having to go back and forward.
> The thermal test chamber required a complete redesign and ground up rebuild to get the accuracy and repeatability of the results that I wanted.
> Sooo much more info will be available later today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems Havoc 360
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As Mayhems is aware, the test sample sent to me is for inclusion in a large round up 360mm radiators.
> So, I will not be posting any comparison data in here right now, nor offering any opinions or other information
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just some data.....
> But once the round up is published all the comparison data will be available against at least 15 other 360mm rads, and that's just stage 1 of the round up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tests are fan RPM based using Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans in Push&Pull and in such is really only comparable to other testing done with the same fans.
> So until the RRU'15 is published, the data posted below is really to get some thermal data available for the Havoc 360
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So..... here's what I am prepared to release now,
> 
> Delta T's are a vital part of a Radiators Thermal Performance calculations, so here's the info in bar chart and plot curve formats...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the actual Performance Measurement - presented in Watts Dissipated per 10 Delta T - W/10ΔT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to Mayhems for the sample and opportunity to put it under scrutiny.
> Hope that OCN members find the info useful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> awesome work as always fast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could not help but notice that the data is quite different from the data you got out of the XSPC RX 360 mm v2 which was at the core of a long and bitter argument a couple of months ago in regard to the havoc. The data clearly show to me that the havoc is a different beast altogether.
Click to expand...

People will always see though the BS posted by some companies







Its always best to let the results speak for them self though.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Sorry mate, I didn't follow the after come of that bitter argument and I tend to stay away from that. But I think justice and ethics are some core values in society and as soon as I saw your test I realize the rads are different so I had to comment on that. No more comments from me on the subject anymore but







to you (@fast_fate) and to @Mayhem


----------



## DarthBaggins

I think this block will look good w/ Mayhems' Pastel Mint Green going through it







just awaiting is arrival from DazMode (only company in NA that I could find that carried the 970 Strix version)


looks like I might need to be ordering a Havoc 360 to fit in the Rev ATX C70 or my newly arriving CL M8


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems has been given a "Bronze award" over at Xtreme Rigs for our Havoc Radiator not bad.

The Summer can be forund here ->: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/

Havoc Write up is here: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/14/mayhems-havoc-360mm-radiator-review/

I would like to thank fast_fate and Stern for putting all there efforts into this round up. You guys have spent a lot of time doing this and im sure every one appreciates your efforts.

Your concerns have been noted and we have changed the size (this was known but forgotten about.).


----------



## natsu2014

Need help. I want to clean this glass res and I can't open it. Any ideas? I used pastel red with it


----------



## Mayhem

Use hot soapy water and if you need to open it youll need to contact the manufacturer.


----------



## DNMock

So 24 hours of Blitz 2 and no leaks, 5 minutes of pastel and a leak pops up between the GPU and terminal. Obviously it's not the fault of the coolant or anything, I just messed up on the block and/or block terminal connection, but I'm curious if the pastel has lower viscosity than plain distilled water / part 2 blitz mix, or if the Blitz part 2 could have cleaned out some gunk that was actually plugging a small hole somewhere. Just seems strange that through 24 hours of blitz, and an hour+ of rinsing out the blitz would have no leaks and suddenly the pastel starts dripping. Obviously user error is the main cause, but either the pastel can squeeze through a hole better than water while under pressure or the Blitz removed some excess gunk plugging a small hole, or the timing was extraordinary.


----------



## electro2u

I think blitz part 2 doesn't move through tubing as easily as coolant/water?


----------



## Horsemen

Let me start by saying i have seen the videos for the pro cleaning kit, the question that i have is, can the part 1 and 2 chemicals be perched separate to go with the pro kit?
I have 4 rads to clean. 2x alphacool 480 ut60, and 2x alphacool 360 ut60.



Next question what coolant is recommended, fittings are Bitspower mat black and Monsoon, the Monsoon fittings are 1/2 black chrome, the rest are silver coated and black chrome. the water blocks are EK copper. Coolent lines are monsoon hard line and Promochill LTR. i would prefer white.

Regards Mike


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horsemen*
> 
> Let me start by saying i have seen the videos for the pro cleaning kit, the question that i have is, can the part 1 and 2 chemicals be perched separate to go with the pro kit?
> I have 4 rads to clean. 2x alphacool 480 ut60, and 2x alphacool 360 ut60.
> 
> 
> 
> Next question what coolant is recommended, fittings are Bitspower mat black and Monsoon, the Monsoon fittings are 1/2 black chrome, the rest are silver coated and black chrome. the water blocks are EK copper. Coolent lines are monsoon hard line and Promochill LTR. i would prefer white.
> 
> Regards Mike


If you want white, you want pastel ice white. It had all your anti corrosives and biocide included, just add di water. It'll be fine with your setup.


----------



## darwing

Hey Guys and @Mayhem!!

So a few weeks ago I had some issues with the pastel black and was trying my best to get it to the color of black I wanted. @Mayhem contacted me personally with my issue and offered to help as his product should not look brown or blue and respected my need for this.

as incredible as the offer was to ensure the product quality of the next shipment I am still blown away at the companies ability to support their customers and keep them happy. This week I received a new concentrate in the mail from Mayhems and cleaned out the system from the diluted water as best I could and tossed it in









I just want to say that everyone on this board and Mayhem himself, this is a company I will be supporting as long as I'm alive







they have won me over with unprecedented customer loyalty and support.

Thank you I will be posting high res pics shortly


----------



## Mayhem

@darwing Thank you for your praise how ever we are only doing our job and this is what you pay for when you buy a product from us. If we ever fall below this standard then i would be very disappointed.









@Horsemen You can buy extras direct from mayhems. http://mayhems.co.uk/store/cleaning/ Part one is all you need extra. Hope this helps.

@DNMock Part 2 of Mayhems Blitz Is more viscous than Pastel, Blitz part 2 can remove stuff that has blocked a hole but it also helps fluids you put in afterwards flow better because of a micro layer it leaves behind to make fluids flow better. There is a lot of extras in Part two that we do not let on about because we do not wish for others to copy our fluids.








Part one and Part two have been co designed with a company whom we work very close with so that its does the job intended and its not just some thrown together chemicals and then hyped up prices. Unlike some companies we actually put the effort in and don't just re sell rebranded crap.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @darwing Thank you for your praise how ever we are only doing our job and this is what you pay for when you buy a product from us. If we ever fall below this standard then i would be very disappointed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Horsemen You can buy extras direct from mayhems. http://mayhems.co.uk/store/cleaning/ Part one is all you need extra. Hope this helps.
> 
> @DNMock Part 2 of Mayhems Blitz Is more viscous than Pastel, Blitz part 2 can remove stuff that has blocked a hole but it also helps fluids you put in afterwards flow better because of a micro layer it leaves behind to make fluids flow better. There is a lot of extras in Part two that we do not let on about because we do not wish for others to copy our fluids.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Part one and Part two have been co designed with a company whom we work very close with so that its does the job intended and its not just some thrown together chemicals and then hyped up prices. Unlike some companies we actually put the effort in and don't just re sell rebranded crap.


You say you are just doing your job , but you are doing more than that Mick , you have Excellent customer support , and a passion in your products second to none , this is very hard to come by ,

I emailed a company founder recently with pictures of a very poor quality Radiator , i had to take to with a grinder because the outer housing was so far from square that my new brackets i made were way out, butt ugly , to get them to sit flat i had to grind most of the outer housing flat around the fan mount hole ,port end , on the rest of the holes , all of them , i had to squash the fan mount holes flat with a large clamp from both sides , beyond flat so they would be flat when clamp released and they had sprung back.
All these holes were so far out of square that i could not mount a single fan of the radiator.

The fins on the rad were totally loaded with crap still are job not done yet , they are loaded with particles of painted dust and who knows what ? , it will take a couple of hours to get them out , so they dont get on my GPU , Mobo.

In defense the last rad i got was very good.

I gave this dude the opportunity to just send one , did not ask , but cheekily gave my address if he decided to send a replacement , given the irrefutable clear pictures of all this.
He just replied " good luck with the RMA " lol , i do doubt you would take this approach

I have another story i will save you from , regarding Corsair Joseph and Corsairs awesome Customer service too.

This is noticed and fully appreciated , great customer service !


----------



## Deedaz

Man that Aurora looks good


----------



## Deedaz

Did I kill this thread? lol I've never seen it go this long without an update...


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Did I kill this thread? lol I've never seen it go this long without an update...


Yeah you killed it , we are speechless now you posted pics of that Aurora


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> 
> 
> Man that Aurora looks good


In a complicated loop I'd love to see how long that lasts, If it's 6-months then you need to flush it out or run Mayhems cleaning utilities.. then Id apply it to a lot more builds as a good option... but if it's 2 weeks, or like 24hrs then can't be justifiable to use.

That's the only thing holding me back from using it on some of my builds its glorious just not practice.

Let us know how long it lasted with that effect as well any "gunk" after you flushed it out


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> In a complicated loop I'd love to see how long that lasts, If it's 6-months then you need to flush it out or run Mayhems cleaning utilities.. then Id apply it to a lot more builds as a good option... but if it's 2 weeks, or like 24hrs then can't be justifiable to use.
> 
> That's the only thing holding me back from using it on some of my builds its glorious just not practice.
> 
> Let us know how long it lasted with that effect as well any "gunk" after you flushed it out


I did design the loop specifically for the aurora. no 90 degree fittings, single row rads, tube res. The first run ran well for about a month but i'm pretty sure i mixed it with too much water the first time around. Hopefully it lasts long enough for me to slowly buy up the rest of my upgrades. I'll be going with pastel/dye once the aurora wears out.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Did I kill this thread? lol I've never seen it go this long without an update...


Nope - nice build btw. Looks stunning.

Mark


----------



## wh0kn0ws

How would you guys go about darkening the coolant? It's pastel ice white that i've dyed with green and red to make it grey and now no matter how much I put in, its stays the same color. I'm thinking if I buy a bottle of pastel black concentrate and put a little bit in it, i'll get the dark grey that i'm looking for but i don't know for sure. When I filled the loop, I put some silver aurora booster in it, and it's been over a month now and its still going strong. Even with my computer being turned off for 95% of the time.

Thanks


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> How would you guys go about darkening the coolant? It's pastel ice white that i've dyed with green and red to make it grey and now no matter how much I put in, its stays the same color. I'm thinking if I buy a bottle of pastel black concentrate and put a little bit in it, i'll get the dark grey that i'm looking for but i don't know for sure. When I filled the loop, I put some silver aurora booster in it, and it's been over a month now and its still going strong. Even with my computer being turned off for 95% of the time.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


black pastel will dark that very quickly so be careful to not overshot. If you keep adding green to red in 10:1 proportion that would also darken quite a bit. Personally I think is look good as it is or just a bit darker to match your cables.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> black pastel will dark that very quickly so be careful to not overshot. If you keep adding green to red in 10:1 proportion that would also darken quite a bit. Personally I think is look good as it is or just a bit darker to match your cables.


Thanks for the response. Yeah, I'm content with how it looks right now, I was just curious on adding black pastel.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horsemen*
> 
> Let me start by saying i have seen the videos for the pro cleaning kit, the question that i have is, can the part 1 and 2 chemicals be perched separate to go with the pro kit?
> I have 4 rads to clean. 2x alphacool 480 ut60, and 2x alphacool 360 ut60.
> 
> 
> 
> Next question what coolant is recommended, fittings are Bitspower mat black and Monsoon, the Monsoon fittings are 1/2 black chrome, the rest are silver coated and black chrome. the water blocks are EK copper. Coolent lines are monsoon hard line and Promochill LTR. i would prefer white.
> 
> Regards Mike


nice Caselabs









I think the Mint Green Pre-Mix I have will look beautiful in the R.C70 and need to grab 4 360's for the newly acquired M8


----------



## DNMock

Cost me a section of carpet but I finally got the blue I was going for:


----------



## Mayhem

That reminds me i need to bottle up the stain free dye and sort that all out for sale. Save a few carpets around the world.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> How would you guys go about darkening the coolant? It's pastel ice white that i've dyed with green and red to make it grey and now no matter how much I put in, its stays the same color. I'm thinking if I buy a bottle of pastel black concentrate and put a little bit in it, i'll get the dark grey that i'm looking for but i don't know for sure. When I filled the loop, I put some silver aurora booster in it, and it's been over a month now and its still going strong. Even with my computer being turned off for 95% of the time.
> 
> Thanks


Adding black may not make it gray anymore. Could end up being more towards a purple.

Are you mixing in your system or before filling? Dying pastel in-system can sometimes be tricky to get the right color as the dye has to propagate. Ice done it before and in a day or two, it was way darker in color than I expected and it initially looked


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Hmm OK, yeah I was mixing it in the system.


----------



## concept73

Suppose i'd better join the party late than never









This is my current pc that is going to be broken this week to start a revamp/new project









Compact splash #89
I7 2600k
Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe
16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum c9 1886Mhz
Evga 780
Silverstone 450w modular SFX with all cables made/braided by me.
Samsung Evo 250GB
Ek supremacy block
Ek 780ti gpu block
Ek fittings
Ek pump/res combo
Ek PE rads
Ek tubing.
Mayhems Ultra clear H20
Win 7 Pro

Was featured in Custom pc in the "Readers drive" in August 2014


----------



## Bluemustang

Hmm, I finally finished my tubing bends and was about to blitz my rads when i noticed on the bottle it says dont leave part 1 for longer than 12 hours.

I was told on here that 24 hours max was ok, and i timed my start time for 24 hours. Now that i noticed if its 12 hours ill need to wait cause ill be asleep then.

So to sum up.....24 hours safe? Or maybe 18 hours when ill be awake?

PS: In addition id also like to ask how long is safe to leave part 2? It says run for 30 minutes but id run longer if its fine.

Thank you.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Hmm, I finally finished my tubing bends and was about to blitz my rads when i noticed on the bottle it says dont leave part 1 for longer than 12 hours.
> 
> I was told on here that 24 hours max was ok, and i timed my start time for 24 hours. Now that i noticed if its 12 hours ill need to wait cause ill be asleep then.
> 
> So to sum up.....24 hours safe? Or maybe 18 hours when ill be awake?
> 
> PS: In addition id also like to ask how long is safe to leave part 2? It says run for 30 minutes but id run longer if its fine.
> 
> Thank you.


I know Part 2 is up to 24 hours safe.
Part 1 I am unsure of as I have not used it. Sorry.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> I know Part 2 is up to 24 hours safe.
> Part 1 I am unsure of as I have not used it. Sorry.


So how long would you run part 2? It says 30 mins but i think ive heard 2 hours. That sound good?

And any answer on 24 hour safe part 1 would be awesome. Got everything spread out in my bathroom now lol.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

You should use Parts 1 and 2 for however long it says in the directions that came with your kit. The product formulation you have may not be the same as what someone else has. That may be due to changes made to the product strength/ formulation to improve it or perhaps due to regulations to ship the product to your country, or whatever. That's why whatever the instructions said that came with your kit is what you should follow.

This is what mine said, 6-12 hrs for part 1 and 24 hrs for part 2. Yours may be different.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> So how long would you run part 2? It says 30 mins but i think ive heard 2 hours. That sound good?
> 
> And any answer on 24 hour safe part 1 would be awesome. Got everything spread out in my bathroom now lol.


I used part 2 overnight. approx 14 hours on entire loop after leak testing.
made me a little nervous checking for leaks then trusting it overnight but all was well


----------



## Bluemustang

Meh guess ill wait till tonight to fill them up then so its not 3 AM when it finishes









I already rinsed the rads out a few times with tap water then distilled. Is it safe for them to sit 6 hours or so with water residue (theyre capped and i drained them but ofc theyre still wet a bit)?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Meh guess ill wait till tonight to fill them up then so its not 3 AM when it finishes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already rinsed the rads out a few times with tap water then distilled. Is it safe for them to sit 6 hours or so with water residue (theyre capped and i drained them but ofc theyre still wet a bit)?


Shouldn't harm them at all especially with caps on. Not like they will rust in a matter of 8 hours.


----------



## Rahldrac

When we are on the Topic of Part 2.
Part one is easy, just let it stay in the rads and then rinse it out afterwards.
But I wonder, if you system is not setup, so you use new tubing, but the blocks have been used before. Should you still flush the system with part two after you have completed the loop? Or is it only if you want to reuse tubes and such?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> When we are on the Topic of Part 2.
> Part one is easy, just let it stay in the rads and then rinse it out afterwards.
> But I wonder, if you system is not setup, so you use new tubing, but the blocks have been used before. Should you still flush the system with part two after you have completed the loop? Or is it only if you want to reuse tubes and such?


I flushed my system out with used blocks, new fittings, new tubing just to be on the safe side. What's it going to hurt?









EDIT: besides, if you had any crap built up the blocks would definitely be the thing to clean. Wouldn't worry about tubes so much unless you have plasticizer issues.


----------



## Bluemustang

Speaking of things clogging blocks. Something that was concerning me is even after blitzing the rads there is still going to be particulates in the rad that were dislodged by part 1. Im concerned of these particulates clogging the blocks, and especially after running part 2 picking even more crap up.

I intend to rinse the rads out by filling and shaking a few times, then i will hook it up to the faucet and run a half hour or so through the rads. Then part 2 and rinse that through the faucet as well. Then one final flush with distilled water.

Is that enough to remove much worry of particulate left over in rads after part 1?

Really isnt any more to do then that except take the system down, open the blocks and make sure they didnt get clogged during cleaning. But im not to keen on doing that after everything else (especially the gpus).


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Speaking of things clogging blocks. Something that was concerning me is even after blitzing the rads there is still going to be particulates in the rad that were dislodged by part 1. Im concerned of these particulates clogging the blocks, and especially after running part 2 picking even more crap up.
> 
> I intend to rinse the rads out by filling and shaking a few times, then i will hook it up to the faucet and run a half hour or so through the rads. Then part 2 and rinse that through the faucet as well. Then one final flush with distilled water.
> 
> Is that enough to remove much worry of particulate left over in rads after part 1?
> 
> Really isnt any more to do then that except take the system down, open the blocks and make sure they didnt get clogged during cleaning. But im not to keen on doing that after everything else (especially the gpus).


As I have not used part 1 personally, my logical thinking tells me if you flush the rad after part 1 with tap water then distilled water before installing in the system, you should be fine.


----------



## Domiro

Rinsed both my rads 3 times with DI after part 1, and rinsed the full loop 3 times again. Already spotted debris in the CPU block so I cleaned all blocks afterwards.

Some of the gunk looks downright creepy.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Speaking of things clogging blocks. Something that was concerning me is even after blitzing the rads there is still going to be particulates in the rad that were dislodged by part 1. Im concerned of these particulates clogging the blocks, and especially after running part 2 picking even more crap up.
> 
> I intend to rinse the rads out by filling and shaking a few times, then i will hook it up to the faucet and run a half hour or so through the rads. Then part 2 and rinse that through the faucet as well. Then one final flush with distilled water.
> 
> Is that enough to remove much worry of particulate left over in rads after part 1?
> 
> Really isnt any more to do then that except take the system down, open the blocks and make sure they didnt get clogged during cleaning. But im not to keen on doing that after everything else (especially the gpus).


you can always use a inline filter while running part 2. Example of what you might got is here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build/70

during the 24 h period I run part 2 I cleaned the filter 3 times. The bltiz I drain from the loop I pass it through a coffee filter before putting back on the loop to finish the 24 hours run.


----------



## vilius572

Hi there. I'm using Primochill Advanced LRT tubing which works well with Mayhems Pastel coolant as far as I know. Yesterday I re-did my loop and I didn't had enough tubing to finish whole loop so I used some kind of random tubing.behind top radiator. I don't know what kind of brand it is. Even if I had enough primochill tubing, it would be too stiff. Should I worry about plasticizer or something else?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Hi there. I'm using Primochill Advanced LRT tubing which works well with Mayhems Pastel coolant as far as I know. Yesterday I re-did my loop and I didn't had enough tubing to finish whole loop so I used some kind of random tubing.behind top radiator. I don't know what kind of brand it is. Even if I had enough primochill tubing, it would be too stiff. Should I worry about plasticizer or something else?


for this to be determined we would need to know what brand and model the tubing is. Do you need just a small portion of clear tubing of advance LRt or what?

EDIT: also is it just me or is your graphics card sagging?


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you can always use a inline filter while running part 2. Example of what you might got is here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build/70
> 
> during the 24 h period I run part 2 I cleaned the filter 3 times. The bltiz I drain from the loop I pass it through a coffee filter before putting back on the loop to finish the 24 hours run.


Which would require i put my build on hold for another 3-4 days waiting for a filter and some fittings as well as make another tubing bend just to accommodate this item. Something i wont do unless really necessary, which is why i ask.

I want to do the minimum necessary that is still safe.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> for this to be determined we would need to know what brand and model the tubing is. Do you need just a small portion of clear tubing of advance LRt or what?
> 
> EDIT: also is it just me or is your graphics card sagging?


I use primochill advanced LRT for whole loop except behind top rad because I ran out of tubing so I took that random piece of tubing I had laying around. I have no idea what kind of brand it is but it feels cheap, flimsy and not clear at all. I want to know if it will cause me any plasticizer issue. I know it's hard to tell but I'm just wondering.
Yes that gpu was sagging a lot but I fixed it already


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Speaking of things clogging blocks. Something that was concerning me is even after blitzing the rads there is still going to be particulates in the rad that were dislodged by part 1. Im concerned of these particulates clogging the blocks, and especially after running part 2 picking even more crap up.
> 
> I intend to rinse the rads out by filling and shaking a few times, then i will hook it up to the faucet and run a half hour or so through the rads. Then part 2 and rinse that through the faucet as well. Then one final flush with distilled water.
> 
> Is that enough to remove much worry of particulate left over in rads after part 1?
> 
> Really isnt any more to do then that except take the system down, open the blocks and make sure they didnt get clogged during cleaning. But im not to keen on doing that after everything else (especially the gpus).


Flush a couple of runs of water through the rads after part one, or just hook it up to a faucet and run it for a minute or so if that is an option. Small particles are not likely to get stuck in your waterblocks when running part 2 as it has an extremely potent surfactant. This essentially means it's slippery... VERY slippery. Unless the particles are physically larger than the waterblock lanes, which is unlikely, it should just slip right through them.

-Z


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Flush a couple of runs of water through the rads after part one, or just hook it up to a faucet and run it for a minute or so if that is an option. Small particles are not likely to get stuck in your waterblocks when running part 2 as it has an extremely potent surfactant. This essentially means it's slippery... VERY slippery. Unless the particles are physically larger than the waterblock lanes, which is unlikely, it should just slip right through them.
> 
> -Z


Yeah? I was thinking there very well may be particles bigger than those tiny lanes. I thought this because i pointed a flashlight in my end tanks on my alphacool rads and i could see the channels with flux on them. The channels are raised up a few mils off the channels holes. I can imagine large particles getting stuck next to those raised channels in the end tanks after shaking....even after rinsing with the faucet....no? I'd imagine you'd be aware of these raised channels when you made your statement, but just putting it out there where my thoughts were.


----------



## VSG

Well I can confirm that thanks to some probing inside (literally):


----------



## charliebrown

can anyone tell me why do pastel red turns to burgundy is it something in the radiators or is it just me


----------



## electro2u

What would having residue from blitz part 2 do to x1 coolant?

UV coolants are so bright when I first put them in but they fade very quickly. Color stays great but the UV reaction lasts a few days and then dims sharply in my system. This last time I ran x1 clear for about a day and then flushed most of it out and put in some UV Purple and UV blue premix. Got a couple days of bright UV glow from the coolant where one day it was even off. But I think there might be some blitz part 2 still left after I flushed for several hours repeatedly.


----------



## Rahldrac

In part 1 there are a lot of people saying that they run tap water through. Where I live there is a lot of calcium/chalk in the water, which I am guess is not very good to run through the radiator?


----------



## Mayhem

@charliebrown Your coolant can turn from red to burgundy if your rads are not clean that is why we produced Mayhems Blitz. Clean your rads with it and the problem should go away.

@Rahldrac Tap water will still be fine for the short period of time your using it, all you are doing is pushing the crap out of you system and then run DI water afterwards to remove the tap water.









@geggeg Yup we've seen just as much crap out of a certain brand of rad. Hence the importance of real good flush







and clean. We always blow backwards with water our CPU block to clear blockages when that happens.

Remember it is important to always clean your rads properly no matter which way you choose to clean them or who the manufacturer of the rad is.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Flush a couple of runs of water through the rads after part one, or just hook it up to a faucet and run it for a minute or so if that is an option. Small particles are not likely to get stuck in your waterblocks when running part 2 as it has an extremely potent surfactant. This essentially means it's slippery... VERY slippery. Unless the particles are physically larger than the waterblock lanes, which is unlikely, it should just slip right through them.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah? I was thinking there very well may be particles bigger than those tiny lanes. I thought this because i pointed a flashlight in my end tanks on my alphacool rads and i could see the channels with flux on them. The channels are raised up a few mils off the channels holes. I can imagine large particles getting stuck next to those raised channels in the end tanks after shaking....even after rinsing with the faucet....no? I'd imagine you'd be aware of these raised channels when you made your statement, but just putting it out there where my thoughts were.
Click to expand...

Ahhh... You're using an Alphacol, that's a bit different. I guess I should have assumed as much.







Yeah, I'd give it a good flush from the faucet after part 1 to try and get the chunks out. It's not just flux with Alphacool rads, there is literally chunks of solder that can come out due to cheap manufacturing, as geggeg had shown with those metallic chunks. Maybe shake it a little to make sure you don't hear any rattling. The flux used in radiators is /usually/ water soluble, it just takes in impractically long time to remove it in that fashion. That's where blitz is helpful. So the flux shouldn't get caught in the lanes. Debris on the other hand is another issue all together.







So yeah, give it a good water flush, and make sure there's no loose debris hanging around. Even then I can't imagine it would do any damage to waterblocks, you'd just need to disassemble them and remove em. That is, unless, the waterblocks are skivved as opposed to milled. Corsair AIO, and some oldschool Danger Den waterblocks, use a skivved block as opposed to a milled block. This gives you MUCH thinner lanes, and thinner gaps between them. Skivved waterblocks are very atypical.

To digress and summarize, the debris won't damage anything in your loop, but a good flush through your radiators prior to part 2 should remove any debris.

P.S. Sorry about the late reply, I typed most of it out then my computer died and I went to the gym.









-Z


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know I haven't really seen much for or against the use of Magicool rads, anyone know how clean they are new got a couple 360's for $45/rad


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Ahhh... You're using an Alphacol, that's a bit different. I guess I should have assumed as much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'd give it a good flush from the faucet after part 1 to try and get the chunks out. It's not just flux with Alphacool rads, there is literally chunks of solder that can come out due to cheap manufacturing, as geggeg had shown with those metallic chunks. Maybe shake it a little to make sure you don't hear any rattling. The flux used in radiators is /usually/ water soluble, it just takes in impractically long time to remove it in that fashion. That's where blitz is helpful. So the flux shouldn't get caught in the lanes. Debris on the other hand is another issue all together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah, give it a good water flush, and make sure there's no loose debris hanging around. Even then I can't imagine it would do any damage to waterblocks, you'd just need to disassemble them and remove em. That is, unless, the waterblocks are skivved as opposed to milled. Corsair AIO, and some oldschool Danger Den waterblocks, use a skivved block as opposed to a milled block. This gives you MUCH thinner lanes, and thinner gaps between them. Skivved waterblocks are very atypical.
> 
> To digress and summarize, the debris won't damage anything in your loop, but a good flush through your radiators prior to part 2 should remove any debris.
> 
> P.S. Sorry about the late reply, I typed most of it out then my computer died and I went to the gym.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


Thanks. And my blocks are EK supremacy evo CPU block and 2x EK WF3 GTX 970 GPU blocks. Though come to think of it the GPUs are first in the loop so anything that would get stuck would probably get stuck in the gpus first and not make it to the cpu, though im not sure of the channel width difference between those gpu blocks and cpu block. And being acrylic tops itll be easy to see in the channels of the gpus.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Can you add dye to an already running system? Or is it best to drain and refill?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Can you add dye to an already running system? Or is it best to drain and refill?


Check the PH of the fluid in the running system prior to adding the dye







But yes you can add dyes to an already running system


----------



## Domiro

Does this apply to a system already running X1 and with wanting to add pastel concentrate?


----------



## DarthBaggins

@Mayhem would be the best to answer that one, I think it should be ok but definitely not 100% on that.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Check the PH of the fluid in the running system prior to adding the dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yes you can add dyes to an already running system


Im running no Biocide, just distilled + coil. System has been running for about 3 weeks (it's new). I will check PH though.

Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## silentbow13

Is the any possible way to make a MAYHEMS PASTEL BLUE BERRY ?
I have in my loop now MAYHEMS PASTEL ICE WHITE. If I add drops from MAYHEMS DYE BLUE can I get MAYHEMS PASTEL BLUE BERRY?
How many drops should I add to get MAYHEMS PASTEL BLUE BERRY?
Here is a photo of my loop.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silentbow13*
> 
> Is the any possible way to make a MAYHEMS PASTEL BLUE BERRY ?
> I have in my loop now MAYHEMS PASTEL ICE WHITE. If I add drops from MAYHEMS DYE BLUE can I get MAYHEMS PASTEL BLUE BERRY?
> How many drops should I add to get MAYHEMS PASTEL BLUE BERRY?
> Here is a photo of my loop.


All that the colored pastels are, is just Mayhems Pastel white with dye chucked in to get the shade of color that is specified. I'm not so sure exactly what combination/amount of dye would get you near the blue berry look, but someone else with more dying knowledge on this forum should know.


----------



## silentbow13

So Is anyone here who knows how many drops of Mayhems Blue Dye should I add in mayhems pastel ice white to make the Mayhems Pastel blue berry ?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Does this apply to a system already running X1 and with wanting to add pastel concentrate?


Pastel is not a dye, it is a coolant concentrate. When switching out coolants it's best to drain, flush, and refill the loop.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silentbow13*
> 
> Is the any possible way to make a MAYHEMS PASTEL BLUE BERRY ?
> I have in my loop now MAYHEMS PASTEL ICE WHITE. If I add drops from MAYHEMS DYE BLUE can I get MAYHEMS PASTEL BLUE BERRY?
> How many drops should I add to get MAYHEMS PASTEL BLUE BERRY?
> Here is a photo of my loop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


As previously said, all pastel is pastel ice white with dyes. It's possible, though I'm not great with Pastel colour dying. Cyphon is our go to expert on that. He's usually around here pretty often.

-Z


----------



## Gabrielzm

Folks, I posted this on the water cooling club and I known a lot of folks here also frequent that club so apologies in advance for the re-post from there but I think is useful and interesting enough to replicate here:

_Folks, not sure this has been linked here before but I think is quite relevant for us. @fast_fate has done an incredible job of comparing current rads offers so I will leave a link to that info here for reference:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1542405/extreme-rigs-radiator-review-round-up-2015-group-a

and the original reviews with @stren comments on push/pull that hit the head of the nail:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/20/pushpull-radiator-setups-learned-stop-worry-love-fans-less-noise/

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/

edit - I already +rep him since that is just a nice way to say "thank you" for all that work that benefits all the Water cooling community._


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Im running no Biocide, just distilled + coil. System has been running for about 3 weeks (it's new). I will check PH though.
> 
> Thanks for the heads up!


PH just needs to be Neutral (7)


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Folks, I posted this on the water cooling club and I known a lot of folks here also frequent that club so apologies in advance for the re-post from there but I think is useful and interesting enough to replicate here:
> 
> _Folks, not sure this has been linked here before but I think is quite relevant for us. @fast_fate has done an incredible job of comparing current rads offers so I will leave a link to that info here for reference:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1542405/extreme-rigs-radiator-review-round-up-2015-group-a
> 
> and the original reviews with @stren comments on push/pull that hit the head of the nail:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/20/pushpull-radiator-setups-learned-stop-worry-love-fans-less-noise/
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/
> 
> edit - I already +rep him since that is just a nice way to say "thank you" for all that work that benefits all the Water cooling community._


I went through and read all the reviews yesterday. Awesome stuff for sure! Now I understand how the Mayhems quad pass radiators work.

I was thinking of posting these links here too, but was worried I might be doing something against the rules since Stren himself did not want to post them.


----------



## matreciman

I recently decided to get back into water cooling and wanted to share my experiences. Without doing much research on coolant I just ordered some of the primochill bright uv orange dye and wasn't happy with the color at all.

After reading through quite a bit of this thread I decided to switch to Mayhems pastel orange coolant and WOW it looked amazing when I first filled the loop! Matched my cougar fans perfectly and that is what my color scheme was built around, orange and black.

I have been reading about how important using the blitz kit is but figured since I rinsed my rad with tap water for about 30 minutes and have already ran one batch of coolant through the loop it should be nice and clean. I apparently was wrong! The pastel orange coolant is now slightly muddy colored and after reading through this thread I am pretty sure it is leftover flux from the radiator.

I am using the EK X360 kit and added two of the EK nickel plexi r9 290 gpu blocks. Am I correct in thinking my issue is due to leftover flux? Picture may be hard to tell much of a difference. Thanks for any help guys!


----------



## dgraham1284




----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silentbow13*
> 
> So Is anyone here who knows how many drops of Mayhems Blue Dye should I add in mayhems pastel ice white to make the Mayhems Pastel blue berry ?


Something along the lines of 1 to 2 milli liters per liter of fluid.

It doesn't take much at all, that's why the directions on the dye say to add it a drop at a time. Best bet is to mix up a batch of the ice white, add a couple drops, mix it up and see if it's dark enough for you, add more until you get the darkness you want.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Im running no Biocide, just distilled + coil. System has been running for about 3 weeks (it's new). I will check PH though.
> 
> Thanks for the heads up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PH just needs to be Neutral (7)
Click to expand...

Well... pH needs to be between 6.3 and somewhere in the mid/low 7s. Water on it's own is going to be around 6.3. Good quality coolants will be closer to 7. Saying they need "Exactly this" or "Exactly that" is rather unnecessary since most dyes can withstand a varying range of pH, but yeah. Generally you want to be around 7, give or take a few decimals.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Folks, I posted this on the water cooling club and I known a lot of folks here also frequent that club so apologies in advance for the re-post from there but I think is useful and interesting enough to replicate here:
> 
> _Folks, not sure this has been linked here before but I think is quite relevant for us. @fast_fate has done an incredible job of comparing current rads offers so I will leave a link to that info here for reference:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1542405/extreme-rigs-radiator-review-round-up-2015-group-a
> 
> and the original reviews with @stren comments on push/pull that hit the head of the nail:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/20/pushpull-radiator-setups-learned-stop-worry-love-fans-less-noise/
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/
> 
> edit - I already +rep him since that is just a nice way to say "thank you" for all that work that benefits all the Water cooling community._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went through and read all the reviews yesterday. Awesome stuff for sure! Now I understand how the Mayhems quad pass radiators work.
> 
> I was thinking of posting these links here too, but was worried I might be doing something against the rules since *Stren himself did not want to post them.*
Click to expand...

OCN ToS. Sponsored reviews get taken down in compliance with their ToS. Some reviewers are understandably bitter from that, I'd be too were I them.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matreciman*
> 
> I recently decided to get back into water cooling and wanted to share my experiences. Without doing much research on coolant I just ordered some of the primochill bright uv orange dye and wasn't happy with the color at all.
> 
> After reading through quite a bit of this thread I decided to switch to Mayhems pastel orange coolant and WOW it looked amazing when I first filled the loop! Matched my cougar fans perfectly and that is what my color scheme was built around, orange and black.
> 
> I have been reading about how important using the blitz kit is but figured since I rinsed my rad with tap water for about 30 minutes and have already ran one batch of coolant through the loop it should be nice and clean. I apparently was wrong! The pastel orange coolant is now slightly muddy colored and after reading through this thread I am pretty sure it is leftover flux from the radiator.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Other stuff
> 
> 
> 
> I am using the EK X360 kit and added two of the EK nickel plexi r9 290 gpu blocks. Am I correct in thinking my issue is due to leftover flux? Picture may be hard to tell much of a difference. Thanks for any help guys!


Did you shake the bottle like a madman before mixing?

Was the prior coolant completely removed from the loop via a flush?

Did you use any other additives?

Did you have the same exprience with Primochill as I did? (Dull colour/loss of colour, particle scaling)







[Just personal curiosity]

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

First off just so you all know pastel ice white is a slightly (well quite a bit if put through an analyzer) diffrent to coloured pastel. It will always require more dye on the pastel ice white then it would in a pastel coloured mix.

When changing from X1 to Pastel its best to check the PH of the mix and the colour. If its clear when it went in and has a slight hue of blue / green, chances are high you have an issue with your rads and they need cleaning. Best way is to empty some of the fluid into a glass and then put pure white paper behind the glass and look direct at it. It should be clear how ever if it tinted in any way other than clear you have a problem. Flush your rads any method you wish (turn on sales mode) but Mayhems Blitz Kit will do a better job than anything else on the market at the moment (turn off sales mode). OFC its upto you how you clean you rads but since Blitz is now over 1 year old (from its initial creation) we can safely say it works


----------



## electro2u

Why is concentrate x1 more than premix (at least at ppcs)? I'll try concentrate next time.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Why is concentrate x1 more than premix (at least at ppcs)? I'll try concentrate next time.


Premix is 1L and concentrate makes 2L could be why


----------



## matreciman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> -Z
> Did you shake the bottle like a madman before mixing?
> 
> Was the prior coolant completely removed from the loop via a flush?
> 
> Did you use any other additives?
> 
> Did you have the same exprience with Primochill as I did? (Dull colour/loss of colour, particle scaling)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Just personal curiosity]
> 
> -Z


I did shake the bottle very well, I was actually really excited and dancing around the room while shaking it up







lol

I had only been running the primochill coolant for about 3 weeks but I did notice a slight amount of buildup on the CPU block so I took everything apart and cleaned it rather well. I even went for a second 30 minute flush of the radiator with tap water. After the tap water I only filled the radiator once with DI water, shook and dumped it out then used an air compressor to blow dry the insides.

I did not add anything else to the coolant and used a 1L bottle of the premix.

I was unhappy with the primochill coolant simple because it looked pink in the tubing and after I discover the mayhem pastel I just had to go with that. I didn't use that dye long enough to see if I would have any issues other than it just didn't look good at all and I wasn't happy from the second I put it in the loop.

I'm just going to go ahead and order a new bottle of pastel orange and do the right thing and get a blitz pro kit with it. I want to make sure I'm not having any PH issues or any leftover flux in the radiator. I thought the EK radiators were fairly clean from the factory though.

I have been out of water cooling for about 10 years, but the options these days are amazing compared to what was offered back then.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matreciman*
> 
> I did shake the bottle very well, I was actually really excited and dancing around the room while shaking it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> I had only been running the primochill coolant for about 3 weeks but I did notice a slight amount of buildup on the CPU block so I took everything apart and cleaned it rather well. I even went for a second 30 minute flush of the radiator with tap water. After the tap water I only filled the radiator once with DI water, shook and dumped it out then used an air compressor to blow dry the insides.
> 
> I did not add anything else to the coolant and used a 1L bottle of the premix.
> 
> I was unhappy with the primochill coolant simple because it looked pink in the tubing and after I discover the mayhem pastel I just had to go with that. I didn't use that dye long enough to see if I would have any issues other than it just didn't look good at all and I wasn't happy from the second I put it in the loop.
> 
> I'm just going to go ahead and order a new bottle of pastel orange and do the right thing and get a blitz pro kit with it. I want to make sure I'm not having any PH issues or any leftover flux in the radiator. I thought the EK radiators were fairly clean from the factory though.
> 
> I have been out of water cooling for about 10 years, but the options these days are amazing compared to what was offered back then.


Yeah, sounds like contaminates, flux most likely.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> First off just so you all know pastel ice white is a slightly (well quite a bit if put through an analyzer) diffrent to coloured pastel. It will always require more dye on the pastel ice white then it would in a pastel coloured mix.
> *snip*


Is it not just a higher concentration of nano particles, or is there bigger differences?

-Z


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Premix is 1L and concentrate makes 2L could be why


The 250ml bottles of concentrate from ppcs make up to 1L and the pr3mix bottles are 1L also. Strange. The bottles are much thicker on the concentrate.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The 250ml bottles of concentrate from ppcs make up to 1L and the pr3mix bottles are 1L also. Strange. The bottles are much thicker on the concentrate.


could be incorrect on their page. X1 concentrate has always been 2L to my knowledge.

Mayhem's site
Quote:


> Makes 2 Ltrs when mixed with DI or Ultra Pure water (125 ml per 1 Ltr)


http://mayhems.co.uk/store/x1-clear-250ml.html


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> could be incorrect on their page. X1 concentrate has always been 2L to my knowledge.
> 
> Mayhem's site
> http://mayhems.co.uk/store/x1-clear-250ml.html


Whoops,
+1
I was looking at the pastel concentrates.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Whoops,
> +1
> I was looking at the pastel concentrates.


Lol no worries. Pastel concentrate is 1L yes


----------



## matreciman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Yeah, sounds like contaminates, flux most likely.
> 
> -Z


Awesome, thanks for your help! I will pick up a blitz pro kit and a new bottle of coolant. It looked absolutely perfect on day 1, wake up the next morning and knew I messed up somehow. I wish shipping wasn't the same price as the coolant though! Will have to try to find some other items to add so I don't feel so bad about the shipping, lol.


----------



## Bluemustang

Oh god.....after all this work making my build this crap bitspower reservoir leaked from the bottom. I didnt close it gently either, i tightened it pretty hard. So i took the reservoir out and tightened it with all my possible strength, destroying my hands, and it seemed to work. Didnt leak with distilled at d5 speed 5. So after running distilled for an hour at max speed i drained and filled with part 2 cleaning solution....10-15 minutes in the flippin reservoir starts leaking at the same spot again! The design is pathetic, it cant even close all the way to make proper contact with the O-Ring (which i did install btw).

So, anyway.....i am going to RMA it with PPCS and i need to ask if the system is ok to sit for a few days (possibly almost a week) damp and with a little part 2 left in the system? If not im not sure what to do, i can empty most of it but there will still be a little left. And i cant run distilled through it now to clean it out. And even if i could, would it be ok for the system to sit mostly dry but with a little distilled left?

Man.....what a headache.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Oh god.....after all this work making my build this crap bitspower reservoir leaked from the bottom. I didnt close it gently either, i tightened it pretty hard. So i took the reservoir out and tightened it with all my possible strength, destroying my hands, and it seemed to work. Didnt leak with distilled at d5 speed 5. So after running distilled for an hour at max speed i drained and filled with part 2 cleaning solution....10-15 minutes in the flippin reservoir starts leaking at the same spot again! The design is pathetic, it cant even close all the way to make proper contact with the O-Ring (which i did install btw).
> 
> So, anyway.....i am going to RMA it with PPCS and i need to ask if the system is ok to sit for a few days (possibly almost a week) damp and with a little part 2 left in the system? If not im not sure what to do, i can empty most of it but there will still be a little left. And i cant run distilled through it now to clean it out. And even if i could, would it be ok for the system to sit mostly dry but with a little distilled left?
> 
> Man.....what a headache
> 
> 
> .


Which Bitspower res? Mine has given 0 problems for the past few months using X1 blue. It's the Water Tank Z-Multi 150 (Acrylic Version).


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Which Bitspower res? Mine has given 0 problems for the past few months using X1 blue. It's the Water Tank Z-Multi 150 (Acrylic Version).


http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-250-pom.html

So, question. With yours did the cap fully screw on to the body of the reservoir? No matter how hard i turn it there is still enough room for me to fit my finger nail between the cap and body.


----------



## charliebrown

Gotcha I'll use blitz this time


----------



## M3TAl

Fingernail definitely fits in the gap. Haven't had a leak yet and don't think I tightened the hell out of it either. O-ring seems to make a nice seal.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-250-pom.html
> 
> So, question. With yours did the cap fully screw on to the body of the reservoir? No matter how hard i turn it there is still enough room for me to fit my finger nail between the cap and body.


same, small gap there at the cap:


----------



## Mayhem

Oky questions reference tubing.

The new tubing were working on it will mist over time to a slight yellowish haze how ever it doesn't produce any crap in the system, The tubing has "No" plasticisers, Silicone, cadmium and Hydrolysis resistant. No point adding more smelly BS to what it can do but under testing works @ Temperatures: -33°C to +75°C . Occasional use up to 100°C . Brittle point: -68°C

Bend radius is what i would consider good (not the best) but definitely better than some. Good resistance to UVC as well.

Works with Mayhems pastel and X1 and XT1 perfectly.

So a questions are -

What are the two most popular sizes? ((3/8 - 1/2) 13/10mm Tubing, (3/8 - 5/8) 16/10mm Tubing, (7/16 - 5/8) 16/11mm Tubing, (1/2 - 3/4) 19/13mm Tubing)
Do you prefer to buy in packs or in 1 Meter / 1 Foot Sizes?
How much are you willing to pay per meter?


----------



## DeviousAddict

At the moment I'm paying £13 for 3.3m (10ft) of tubing and I only use (1/2 - 3/4) 19/13mm Tubing. I normall only use around a meter so the pack lasts me quite a while.
I would ratherto buy it in meter lengths so i don't have so much excess laying around (i dont like clutter).

So i'd say: Sell it in meter lengths at around £4 per meter (works out about the same as what I'm paying now) and I would like to definitly see 1/2" - 3/4" tubing please


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> (i dont like clutter).


Haha me either but img is this the wrong hobby for a neat freak. I am *always* looking for stupid crap like heatshrink which won't appear until I am looking for something else I can't find. Hmm... Maybe I'm not a good neat freak.


----------



## DeviousAddict

I have a small screws/nails holder which I use to hold any small bits and bobs like cmos jumpers, wc fittings, fan cable extensions etc. It sits neatly om my windowsill and each type of thing has its own little draw in it









For the bigger stuff I have packaging boxes on the top of my wardrobe, filed by item category.

Btw im a storeman in the royal Navy. Does it show? Hahaha


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky questions reference tubing.
> 
> The new tubing were working on it will mist over time to a slight yellowish haze how ever it doesn't produce any crap in the system, The tubing has "No" plasticisers, Silicone, cadmium and Hydrolysis resistant. No point adding more smelly BS to what it can do but under testing works @ Temperatures: -33°C to +75°C . Occasional use up to 100°C . Brittle point: -68°C
> 
> Bend radius is what i would consider good (not the best) but definitely better than some. Good resistance to UVC as well.
> 
> Works with Mayhems pastel and X1 and XT1 perfectly.
> 
> So a questions are -
> 
> What are the two most popular sizes? ((3/8 - 1/2) 13/10mm Tubing, (3/8 - 5/8) 16/10mm Tubing, (7/16 - 5/8) 16/11mm Tubing, (1/2 - 3/4) 19/13mm Tubing)
> Do you prefer to buy in packs or in 1 Meter / 1 Foot Sizes?
> How much are you willing to pay per meter?


My go-tos are
3/8 5/8
1/2 3/4

Pricing I start cringing slightly when it's over $2/ft. I think the primochill advanced is $2.50/ft on ppcs


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky questions reference tubing.
> 
> The new tubing were working on it will mist over time to a slight yellowish haze how ever it doesn't produce any crap in the system, The tubing has "No" plasticisers, Silicone, cadmium and Hydrolysis resistant. No point adding more smelly BS to what it can do but under testing works @ Temperatures: -33°C to +75°C . Occasional use up to 100°C . Brittle point: -68°C
> 
> Bend radius is what i would consider good (not the best) but definitely better than some. Good resistance to UVC as well.
> 
> Works with Mayhems pastel and X1 and XT1 perfectly.
> 
> So a questions are -
> 
> What are the two most popular sizes? ((3/8 - 1/2) 13/10mm Tubing, (3/8 - 5/8) 16/10mm Tubing, (7/16 - 5/8) 16/11mm Tubing, (1/2 - 3/4) 19/13mm Tubing)
> Do you prefer to buy in packs or in 1 Meter / 1 Foot Sizes?
> How much are you willing to pay per meter?


3/8" - 1/2" and 1/2" - 3/4"

Pricing, the best tubing seems to go for about $2.50 USD per foot, while the cheaper tubing for around $.99 USD per foot.

While $2.50 per foot seems a little high, assuming it's the best tubing on the market, I wouldn't be opposed to pricing in the $10 USD per Meter. When you spend several hundreds to thousands for a quality water loop, paying an extra $5 bucks for the best tubing available would be the only logical decision to make.

Distances, I'd say just do it in meters. question is, do you even wanna mess with selling 1 or 2 ft little sections? sounds like a lot of work for little gain when compared to 1 meter sections. I prefer having excess tubing left over in case I make a mistake or change my mind after making a cut anyway.

edit: Now where are those Mayhems compression fittings and Mayhems 1/2 ton 4x4 pick-up trucks?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

3/8"-1/2" and 1/2"-3/4" should be sizes offered. And the tubing still yellows?? I thought that was the whole purpose of making this tubing was so that it WOULDNT yellow.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## VSG

Yeah exactly. What would make this a lucrative alternative to Primochill Advanced LRT?


----------



## Gabrielzm

3/8 - 5/8 is a very common size too. In any case the yellowing over time seem a lot like what happen with tygon tubes like the very flexible 1000. It is a bummer...


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky questions reference tubing.
> 
> The new tubing were working on it will mist over time to a slight yellowish haze how ever it doesn't produce any crap in the system, The tubing has "No" plasticisers, Silicone, cadmium and Hydrolysis resistant. No point adding more smelly BS to what it can do but under testing works @ Temperatures: -33°C to +75°C . Occasional use up to 100°C . Brittle point: -68°C
> 
> Bend radius is what i would consider good (not the best) but definitely better than some. Good resistance to UVC as well.
> 
> Works with Mayhems pastel and X1 and XT1 perfectly.
> 
> So a questions are -
> 
> What are the two most popular sizes? ((3/8 - 1/2) 13/10mm Tubing, (3/8 - 5/8) 16/10mm Tubing, (7/16 - 5/8) 16/11mm Tubing, (1/2 - 3/4) 19/13mm Tubing)
> Do you prefer to buy in packs or in 1 Meter / 1 Foot Sizes?
> How much are you willing to pay per meter?


IMO there are 3 most popular sizes, 3/8" x 1/2", 3/8" x 5/8", and 1/2" x 3/4"
as far as purchasing tubing goes, I like having the 10' pack for the first time build and buy it by the foot/meter as i upgrade/redo the tubing later.
For pricing, i believe the primochill goes for $2.50 a foot here so assuming its at least as good, thats not an unreasonable price.


----------



## DNMock

If you could get rid of the yellowing somehow as well as everything else you've listed I'd definitely say the $3 USD per ft. or $10 USD per meter type range would definitely be a reasonable number.


----------



## Mayhem

Well yellowing starts at 40c not 35c also it works upto 100c how ever it will cluod at 80c. Hay at least im honest ........ Im putting a hoot load of effort into testing so much so the company we work with are revising there testing techniques...... we've opened there eyes to some thing diffrent and a diffrent way of looking at things.


----------



## VSG

True, I will give you that. I think people here were the first to recognize the yellowing effect of Advanced LRT across coolant type and components so hopefully it works out.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Well yellowing starts at 40c not 35c also it works upto 100c how ever it will cluod at 80c. Hay at least im honest ........ Im putting a hoot load of effort into testing so much so the company we work with are revising there testing techniques...... we've opened there eyes to some thing diffrent and a diffrent way of looking at things.


Oh I don't think anyone is doubting you or that you are trying to put out the best quality that can be done, I was just talking from a pricing stand point, if it isn't clearly superior to the Advanced LRT and only slightly better, going much above their pricing probably wouldn't end up being worth while for some people.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I haven't had any discoloration in my tubing even with running dyes and such, but my fluid and ambients never peak over 28c (fluid tops out at 25.5c) and I'm using Primo's Advanced LRT, which reminds me I need to do a pH test so I can see if I can drain the loop to add my Mint Green


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I haven't had any discoloration in my tubing even with running dyes and such, but my fluid and ambients never peak over 28c (fluid tops out at 25.5c) and I'm using Primo's Advanced LRT


my clear primochill advance lrt tubing stained bad after running XT1 UV Blue coolant in it. course it was a high concentrate as it was an experimental loop running for about 4 months with a thermaltake all in one aluminum rad in it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

when I broke down the loop last I did have remnants of the dyes in the tubing but I could just wipe them out of the tub, so no real staining. but using a strong concentration of the dyes/fluids, yeah I can see where it would stain (I was using blue and red dyes)


----------



## ACallander

Mayhems site is down!! Noooo!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mick must have tripped over a cord or something lol. . probably doing some site maintenance


----------



## MunneY

Just wanted to show of my coolant courtesy of @Mayhem


----------



## giltyler

Very Sweet Mix


----------



## DNMock

I have had this idea for a while now, but I'm too scared to test it myself. What would happen if you took some pastel white in your loop (water based) and sylized it with some drops of motor oil? In theory it shouldn't hurt anything and would give you some cool little blobs and streaks running through that reflect all sorts of different colors.

Anyone ever tried something as crazy as that or would the oil be too clingy in the blocks and just hang out there all the time bein jerks?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I have had this idea for a while now, but I'm too scared to test it myself. What would happen if you took some pastel white in your loop (water based) and sylized it with some drops of motor oil? In theory it shouldn't hurt anything and would give you some cool little blobs and streaks running through that reflect all sorts of different colors.
> 
> Anyone ever tried something as crazy as that or would the oil be too clingy in the blocks and just hang out there all the time bein jerks?


Sounds similar to Mayhems Illusions.




If I recall correctly it's been on the backburner for a while though.

I wouldn't mess around with motor oil in pastel, but if you do I'd do it OUT of the loop. Just a mason jar, and a pump is enough to experiment with it.

-Z


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I have had this idea for a while now, but I'm too scared to test it myself. What would happen if you took some pastel white in your loop (water based) and sylized it with some drops of motor oil? In theory it shouldn't hurt anything and would give you some cool little blobs and streaks running through that reflect all sorts of different colors.
> 
> Anyone ever tried something as crazy as that or would the oil be too clingy in the blocks and just hang out there all the time bein jerks?


Try it and let us see the results!


----------



## jodybdesigns

Motor oil in water will turn white. Have you never seen a blown head gasket on a engine? It turns the oil white


----------



## matreciman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Motor oil in water will turn white. Have you never seen a blown head gasket on a engine? It turns the oil white


I believe what causes the oil to turn white is a reaction with the antifreeze in a car engine. Oil in water will separate, not turn white.


----------



## Mayhem

Site went down due to well some thing i didn't do for a change. lol should be fixed now.

Baby oil + Ultra Pure water works perfect

@MunneY add a drop of blue dye it will match you Nvida Green perfect then.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matreciman*
> 
> I believe what causes the oil to turn white is a reaction with the antifreeze in a car engine. Oil in water will separate, not turn white.


What about the white that comes out when they are mining for oil? That's water/oil mixture before you get to the good stuff. Remember, this will be in a constant flow through all components, so it will get good and mixed up

Now Baby Oil + Water could work, but it would look flunky. As when you mix cooking oil with water before you bake a cake. You would have to mess with and test several times though to get a correct mixture so it just don't look insane with blotches all in your water, instead of the "*lava lamp*" your looking for.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Motor oil in water will turn white. Have you never seen a blown head gasket on a engine? It turns the oil white


It reacts with the anti-freeze and turns into a gray sludge. in water it separates. Just had a cracked oil cooler on a tractor at work and had to drain that crap out of the radiator. When flushing pure water through it separated with the oil blobs floating on top.


----------



## Mayhem

Baby Oil + X1 does work it also works with UP but you need an additive.


----------



## DNMock

Ya know what, screw it, I have a d5 pump/res combo and an acrylic ram block just sitting in the closet right now. Plenty of distilled, and some pastel coolant (already dyed blue though) all just sitting around and I got nothing better to do since we are "iced in" today. (1/8th of an inch of sleet it "iced in" in Dallas. I know it's ******ed).

Anyone have any other random household things to randomly try and throw in for fun?

edit: I don't even want that lava lamp style look, I'm happy with what I have now, this is just one of those stupid ideas you get when you are left to your own devices for a while like on a long drive or doing some menial task that takes a long time to complete.

edit:

That didn't end too well.

Too low of a pump speed and the oil just sat on top. Cranked the pump up and it ripped the oil into such tiny blobs that it appeared to be more like foam. I think it could be done, but you need a precise flow rate and ratio that would need to be fine tuned for each system individually. Also you couldn't have any high points for the oil to build up in like a reservoir.

Here are a few pictures if you are interested:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Test set-up



Oil I used



Result after pump is turned off (oil settling at the top. Added dye to make it a little more obvious)







On a plus note, it looks like I made a ghetto version of pastel. Here is what it looks like with Distilled water, pump on full to reduce the oil to tiny particles, and a few drops of blue dye:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Ofcourse don't be silly and actually put that in your system. The oil will coat all your blocks inside and you will have to take everything apart and wash it all thoroughly with soapy water to get it off. Makes sense though, the little oil blobs are just acting like really big versions of the nano particles in the pastel, effectively making the fluid opaque and blocking reflecting the light back before it can make it through the liquid, so I guess in a sense it really is ghetto pastel.

P.S. Yeah my "lab" is in my bathroom and my "test bench" is a piece of cork board I pulled off a panel in my garage in case that's what you were wondering.


----------



## RpeeKooz

Hi guys.I'm just cleaning my rads and the ph seems to stay at 8.how can I get it to 7.or is 8 alright to add aurora 2?


----------



## matreciman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Ya know what, screw it, I have a d5 pump/res combo and an acrylic ram block just sitting in the closet right now. Plenty of distilled, and some pastel coolant (already dyed blue though) all just sitting around and I got nothing better to do since we are "iced in" today. (1/8th of an inch of sleet it "iced in" in Dallas. I know it's ******ed).
> 
> Anyone have any other random household things to randomly try and throw in for fun?
> 
> edit: I don't even want that lava lamp style look, I'm happy with what I have now, this is just one of those stupid ideas you get when you are left to your own devices for a while like on a long drive or doing some menial task that takes a long time to complete.
> 
> edit:
> 
> That didn't end too well.
> 
> Too low of a pump speed and the oil just sat on top. Cranked the pump up and it ripped the oil into such tiny blobs that it appeared to be more like foam. I think it could be done, but you need a precise flow rate and ratio that would need to be fine tuned for each system individually. Also you couldn't have any high points for the oil to build up in like a reservoir.
> 
> Here are a few pictures if you are interested:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Test set-up
> 
> 
> 
> Oil I used
> 
> 
> 
> Result after pump is turned off (oil settling at the top. Added dye to make it a little more obvious)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a plus note, it looks like I made a ghetto version of pastel. Here is what it looks like with Distilled water, pump on full to reduce the oil to tiny particles, and a few drops of blue dye:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ofcourse don't be silly and actually put that in your system. The oil will coat all your blocks inside and you will have to take everything apart and wash it all thoroughly with soapy water to get it off. Makes sense though, the little oil blobs are just acting like really big versions of the nano particles in the pastel, effectively making the fluid opaque and blocking reflecting the light back before it can make it through the liquid, so I guess in a sense it really is ghetto pastel.
> 
> P.S. Yeah my "lab" is in my bathroom and my "test bench" is a piece of cork board I pulled off a panel in my garage in case that's what you were wondering.


Thanks for taking the time to test this and share your experience. I was really curious how this would work out, but don't have the resources to test it myself.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> Hi guys.I'm just cleaning my rads and the ph seems to stay at 8.how can I get it to 7.or is 8 alright to add aurora 2?


7 is neutral and that's where you want it


----------



## guitarhero23

Ive read multiple things so i will come here to hopefully get a couple people that agree on the same answer.

Hard acrylic with some primochill advanced lrt And mayhem pastel. Silver kill coil or no coil or somethong else? Or sre the chemicals in the fluid already enough? Blocks are all nickel plexi.

Thanks


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Ive read multiple things so i will come here to hopefully get a couple people that agree on the same answer.
> 
> Hard acrylic with some primochill advanced lrt And mayhem pastel. Silver kill coil or no coil or somethong else? Or sre the chemicals in the fluid already enough? Blocks are all nickel plexi.
> 
> Thanks


Don't need the coil at all. The pastel inherit prohibitors are better than a kill coil.

Also, would not advise using silver with nickel blocks as it can cause the nickel to corrode in some cases. Doesn't happen to everyone but I've seen enough cases to want to avoid it lol


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Don't need the coil at all. The pastel inherit prohibitors are better than a kill coil.
> 
> Also, would not advise using silver with nickel blocks as it can cause the nickel to corrode in some cases. Doesn't happen to everyone but I've seen enough cases to want to avoid it lol


Good, one thing less I have to buy


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Ive read multiple things so i will come here to hopefully get a couple people that agree on the same answer.
> 
> Hard acrylic with some primochill advanced lrt And mayhem pastel. Silver kill coil or no coil or somethong else? Or sre the chemicals in the fluid already enough? Blocks are all nickel plexi.
> 
> Thanks


no kill coil. Pastel have everything you need on it.

edit - Ops. That is what I get for not reading the thread to the end before replying. cyphon already got you covered


----------



## Mayhem

Next we we are release our new none staining dyes in three colours Red/Pink , Blue and Yellow. These are very high quality none staining dyes with a hugggggge working PH range.

OFC they come with a price tag how ever you pay for what you get.

Pics and video to come when i get some time. They can be used with X1, XT1, Pastel and Aurora.

Mick


----------



## Ramzinho

I wanted to ask mick if the new pastel is coming any time soon? i've held off my purchase of blyeperry pastel when i saw the new 10nm fluid... Also i want to achieve a darker blue than the BlueBerry.. something like Navy blue... which dye should i use.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I wanted to ask mick if the new pastel is coming any time soon? i've held off my purchase of blyeperry pastel when i saw the new 10nm fluid... Also i want to achieve a darker blue than the BlueBerry.. something like Navy blue... which dye should i use.


Hmm a new pastel? The current pastel is i think 40nm, i was under the impression thats perfectly fine to not get clogged in blocks. So what does a 10nm accomplish?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Hmm a new pastel? The current pastel is i think 40nm, i was under the impression thats perfectly fine to not get clogged in blocks. So what does a 10nm accomplish?


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*


So what am i supposed to take from that video? Increased lifespan? (3-5 years)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I wanted to ask mick if the new pastel is coming any time soon? i've held off my purchase of blyeperry pastel when i saw the new 10nm fluid... Also i want to achieve a darker blue than the BlueBerry.. something like Navy blue... which dye should i use.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm a new pastel? The current pastel is i think 40nm, i was under the impression thats perfectly fine to not get clogged in blocks. So what does a 10nm accomplish?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what am i supposed to take from that video? Increased lifespan? (3-5 years)
Click to expand...

Pastel Nano Shots. Similar to Aurora Booster, except with pastel. It's just the nano particles and surfactant. Lasts considerably longer, and is MUCH lighter which means much cheaper to ship internationally. Ideally it's a good idea to pair it with XT-1, or another coolant so you still get corrosion inhibitors and what not, but not required.

-Z


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I wanted to ask mick if the new pastel is coming any time soon? i've held off my purchase of blyeperry pastel when i saw the new 10nm fluid... Also i want to achieve a darker blue than the BlueBerry.. something like Navy blue... which dye should i use.


add some purple to the blue.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/9950#post_23580217

4 to 1 ratio of blue to purple dye for that.


----------



## Bertovzki

I got my Blitz Pro today







, is this anything to worry about , this is my PH tester with what looks like leaking battery acid , both in clear liquid form and in powder , crystal.
But battery is %100 fine


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## VSG

Looks more like salt deposition from one of the buffer solutions they must have used to test out the meter beforehand.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks more like salt deposition from one of the buffer solutions they must have used to test out the meter beforehand.


right sweet i was not really concerned , but curious , yes that makes some sense , all good ill just give it a decent clean before use


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh all the meter are calibrated before we add them to the test kits. Looks like we've forgotten to wipe that one down. when you doing 500 at a time we might miss the odd wipe down









The Newer nano fluid is hold for the moment until we release it. This week were releasing the None staining dyes the new 10nm pastel is still under test and will be for a while as we need to make sure we release a working product.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> add some purple to the blue.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/9950#post_23580217
> 
> 4 to 1 ratio of blue to purple dye for that.


Thanks so much.. very much appreciated.


----------



## Anfs

Hi all
I just noticed the other day my sunset yellow pastel coolant is starting to get darker in one of my loops.
It's looking slightly orange
I have 2 separate loops one for cpu and one for gpu.
Both loops run through Alphacool rads that were properly cleaned with Mayhems blitz both part 1 and 2.
The coolant has only been in their not more than 2 months.
Could this darkening be caused by the rads?
Would it be worth it to rum blitz through them again.
I will be tearing down the system anyway changing over to a case labs th10a for which I have purchased another 480 Alphacool rad.
Thanks in advance for any advice


----------



## madmalkav

Hey @Mayhem, you don't ship to Spain currently?


----------



## Rahldrac

On the movie on how to use Blitz pro (part 1) it says that you can use 1/4 plugs to keep the the liquid in while it is working. Can I use the ones that was on my old water block? Will the "acid" not damage the rubber seal/ring on the plug?


----------



## Roxycon

which red and green 15 ml concentrates is the best to go for to mimic the grey on the ek vardar fans? im using pastel ice white as a base


----------



## Dyaems

I'm planning to create a color like the picture below using Pastel Sunset Yellow... Any ideas what dye (?) should I will be mixing with? I'm guessing red but I need more opinions. The current Pastel Sunset Yellow is too bright for my tastes.



Thanks for any input!


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Hi all
> I just noticed the other day my sunset yellow pastel coolant is starting to get darker in one of my loops.
> It's looking slightly orange
> I have 2 separate loops one for cpu and one for gpu.
> Both loops run through Alphacool rads that were properly cleaned with Mayhems blitz both part 1 and 2.
> The coolant has only been in their not more than 2 months.
> Could this darkening be caused by the rads?
> Would it be worth it to rum blitz through them again.
> I will be tearing down the system anyway changing over to a case labs th10a for which I have purchased another 480 Alphacool rad.
> Thanks in advance for any advice


Does the slightly darker one run hot sometimes, atleast hotter than the other? May just be your tubing doing a bit of yellowing.

edit: Nevermind, thought your avatar looked familiar, you did that badass looking XPower AC build and it's all acrylic tubing, isn't it.

That build is amazing, why on earth would you wanna tear it down already!


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all
> I just noticed the other day my sunset yellow pastel coolant is starting to get darker in one of my loops.
> It's looking slightly orange
> I have 2 separate loops one for cpu and one for gpu.
> Both loops run through Alphacool rads that were properly cleaned with Mayhems blitz both part 1 and 2.
> The coolant has only been in their not more than 2 months.
> Could this darkening be caused by the rads?
> Would it be worth it to rum blitz through them again.
> I will be tearing down the system anyway changing over to a case labs th10a for which I have purchased another 480 Alphacool rad.
> Thanks in advance for any advice


I love rigid acrylic , and you do indeed have one of the best rigs i have seen , well done


----------



## Anfs

Thankyou all for your kind words about my 900d build it is much appreciated.
Although I love the 900d the th10a is in a different league much more space to do what I want and the build quality is on another level but you do pay for it.
With the sunset yellow pastel can it vary at all per bottle ?
Or do people think it is the alphacool rads causing this as I said I did run mayhem blitz through them maybe I will run it through all of them again.

Cheers


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Thankyou all for your kind words about my 900d build it is much appreciated.
> Although I love the 900d the th10a is in a different league much more space to do what I want and the build quality is on another level but you do pay for it.
> With the sunset yellow pastel can it vary at all per bottle ?
> Or do people think it is the alphacool rads causing this as I said I did run mayhem blitz through them maybe I will run it through all of them again.
> 
> Cheers


I'm sure it's possible either could be the case. If you are going to go the double loop route again you could always put all your fluid together in an empty gallon jug of distilled and mixing it all together just to be safe that there isn't a slight variation from batch to batch in the color.

Outside of that, maybe the slightly darker loop didn't get rinsed out quite as well and had some residual blitz was left in it. That's the best I have and those are just guesses.

Make sure you do a lot of pictures on your next build when your new case comes in, I'm excited to see more of your work!


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Hey @Mayhem, you don't ship to Spain currently?


http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/distributors#spain
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> On the movie on how to use Blitz pro (part 1) it says that you can use 1/4 plugs to keep the the liquid in while it is working. Can I use the ones that was on my old water block? Will the "acid" not damage the rubber seal/ring on the plug?


Its always best to replace the rubber O-Ring after use so that you always get the perfect seal, O-Rings are very cheap to buy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> which red and green 15 ml concentrates is the best to go for to mimic the grey on the ek vardar fans? im using pastel ice white as a base


The best green is the Emerald Green and Red dye. This is what we use.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Thankyou all for your kind words about my 900d build it is much appreciated.
> Although I love the 900d the th10a is in a different league much more space to do what I want and the build quality is on another level but you do pay for it.
> With the sunset yellow pastel can it vary at all per bottle ?
> Or do people think it is the alphacool rads causing this as I said I did run mayhem blitz through them maybe I will run it through all of them again.
> 
> Cheers


On Sunset Yellow its always similar (depending on how hard you shake the bottle before use) any darkening is achieved via issues with in a rad normally ,how ever not all the time as a Copper block (very rare instances) can do the same thing as well. Our warranty rules are simple if you are not happy we will replace the product so ..... Please message the amount of pastel yellow you need (please provide a receipt with in the msg) and when i ship it, i will also include part one and part two (no extras included as you wont need them) of the blitz so that you can re flush that line again.


----------



## madmalkav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/distributors#spain


They have a small part of your catalog. Also, they don't sell the radiators. Also, perhaps I have reasons -like I don't like them or I hate my own own country or prefer to buy directly from the producers when possible or whatever-, so I'm still interested in getting to know if you ship to Spain. IIRC the old shop estimated shipping to Spain with no problem but the new one doesn't.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Thankyou all for your kind words about my 900d build it is much appreciated.
> Although I love the 900d the th10a is in a different league much more space to do what I want and the build quality is on another level but you do pay for it.
> With the sunset yellow pastel can it vary at all per bottle ?
> Or do people think it is the alphacool rads causing this as I said I did run mayhem blitz through them maybe I will run it through all of them again.
> 
> Cheers


I also admire your build. As a caselabs owner myself - a humble sm8, you will love the caselabs case, as they are indeed a class apart imho.
Please post pics of your new build - look forward to it.

Mark


----------



## Anfs

Thankyou Mayhem for the info
I have already purchased more of the sunset yellow pastel and the blitz part 1 so I can start off the new build with fresh coolant I will let you know how it goes once finished and up and running for a while as it took about 2-3 months for the darkening to occur.
thankyou


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/distributors#spain
> 
> 
> 
> They have a small part of your catalog. Also, they don't sell the radiators. Also, perhaps I have reasons -like I don't like them or I hate my own own country or prefer to buy directly from the producers when possible or whatever-, so I'm still interested in getting to know if you ship to Spain. IIRC the old shop estimated shipping to Spain with no problem but the new one doesn't.
Click to expand...

Oky Send a email direct to sales at mayhems.co dot uk and they can work out a shipping price for you direct (dont forget you full name, address and products you would like)







. They wont answer today as were all at a big meeting this afternoon ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Thankyou Mayhem for the info
> I have already purchased more of the sunset yellow pastel and the blitz part 1 so I can start off the new build with fresh coolant I will let you know how it goes once finished and up and running for a while as it took about 2-3 months for the darkening to occur.
> thankyou


The warranty is always open and the offer will still stand







. Please keep us all informed though.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> I'm planning to create a color like the picture below using Pastel Sunset Yellow... Any ideas what dye (?) should I will be mixing with? I'm guessing red but I need more opinions. The current Pastel Sunset Yellow is too bright for my tastes.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any input!


A small amount of red should do it


----------



## Horsemen

When are we going to see the Mayhems Super Pastel 15ml nano Fluid in the US?


----------



## andyv

Ugh, I put some orange pastel in my system last night. Turned brown quickly. I guess I didn't clean my system well enough. Still looks decent (like an orange brown, it was more fluro orange to begin with). Was completely my own fault. I thought I was good, but since I was re-using parts some of the fittings must have still had crap on them.

The other thing, is I stupidly put the fill and inlet to the res through the same port, so I am having issues filling it completely. The coolant starts to foam a bit after running. I think due to splashing.


----------



## alepolo101

Wait... I was just reading back a couple pages, you're releasing a non staining dye? That's awesome! Will it come in deep red? Also, when will it be available in Canada/US? I'm trying to get my rig done by the 27th, for a LAN party and I think this dye would be way better than the more staining X-1 Red or Deep Red Dye


----------



## Rahldrac

If anybody are planning on using the blitz part 1 on slim rads; one bottle is enough for 6!
I used one bottle for 3x360mm magiccool slim and 3x240 alphacool St30!
Now I have one blitz pro pack that I do not need


----------



## Gabrielzm

alphacool st 30 240 mm takes 130 ml to fill it up.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alepolo101*
> 
> Wait... I was just reading back a couple pages, you're releasing a non staining dye? That's awesome! Will it come in deep red? Also, when will it be available in Canada/US? I'm trying to get my rig done by the 27th, for a LAN party and I think this dye would be way better than the more staining X-1 Red or Deep Red Dye


They should be coming out soon but in limited colors the first time. Think mayhems said red, blue, yellow, and maybe green


----------



## alepolo101

Not sure if this was here before... But non-staining dyes are now on mayhem's website: https://mayhems.co.uk/store/dyes/non-staining-dyes/

There's red/pink, blue, green, and yellow.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh they are live, just taking photos this morning. The Red is More over pinkish red then red. To make it red you can water down some blue add a drop to the red and this gives a nice even blood red. Ill take photos / Video and people will see what i mean.

The blue is deep blue and very strong, the green is emerald looking and the yellow is a deeper yellow.

Dont forget though it none staining and does not mean it won't precipitate into tubing. It won't stain anything that is non porous.


----------



## Bluemustang

So non porous things that wouldnt stain would be like....acrylic? and metals of course.


----------



## Mayhem

Yes, E.g Our normal pink dye is notorious for staining anything it comes into contact with were as the New Pink / Red Dye doesn't stain and could be used as a direct replacement for the pink.

Video will follow soon.


----------



## total90

Hi

1st time with Pastel + deep red dye + Blue dye


----------



## DarthBaggins

Love the maroon/burgundy in the pastel concentrations


----------



## adog12341

Hey guys! Got some Mayhems deep red dye last November from PPCS and I've run into a problem. After a month or so the color will start to fade to a pretty dull red. Is this normal? It's getting pretty annoying to have to add more dye since my res is a pain in the ass to fill. Here's my loop components:

XSPC AX360, Raystorm, D5 photon 170

Magicool G2 240mm

EKWB Plexi-Nickel 7970 block

Mix of XSPC and Primochill LRT crystal tubing


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adog12341*
> 
> Hey guys! Got some Mayhems deep red dye last November from PPCS and I've run into a problem. After a month or so the color will start to fade to a pretty dull red. Is this normal? It's getting pretty annoying to have to add more dye since my res is a pain in the ass to fill. Here's my loop components:
> 
> XSPC AX360, Raystorm, D5 photon 170
> 
> Magicool G2 240mm
> 
> EKWB Plexi-Nickel 7970 block
> 
> Mix of XSPC and Primochill LRT crystal tubing


A quick assumption would be the XSPC tubing causing some problems as it clouds quickly and is overall not as good as the advance lrt.


----------



## VSG

At the risk of stealing some of Mick's thunder: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-desolation-ultra-clear-tubing-1-2-3-4-19-13mm-tubing.html
Quote:


> Mayhems Desolation Ultra Clear Tubing is the new standard of Ultra-Clear tubing from Mayhems. Our new flexible liquid cooling tubing surpasses all new high EU standards that are coming into effect and uses new Polymer Additives that do not leach plasticizers into the system causing fouling and blockages. Mayhems Desolation Ultra-Clear Does not use any Phthalate materials again aiding in a higher quality tubing. Mayhems has worked very closely with a leading tubing manufacture with in the UK to bring you this high grade product so you no longer have to take a chance with subpar tubing any more.
> 
> Mayhems Desolation Ultra Clear Tubing has a little secret up it arm as well, if the tubing clouds you can restore it to its Ultra Clear state (just like new / selfheal technology), more information will be forth coming on release.


----------



## adog12341

I guess I'll tack on my more LRT to my next order and see if that helps any.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes, E.g Our normal pink dye is notorious for staining anything it comes into contact with were as the New Pink / Red Dye doesn't stain and could be used as a direct replacement for the pink.
> 
> Video will follow soon.


What a dick! where were these dyes a month ago before I decided to slop all over my carpet









Not only that but the new blue is amazing looking in the pastel, way better than the baby blue the old dye made in pastel. I'm so jealous of these advancements.

P.S. I'll be moving my desk build to another room this summer to another room when I get the carpet replaced (it was crappy carpet before hand and I've been planning on tearing it out for a while now anyway so I didn't even care I was being sloppy







). I have enough left over dyed pastel left over from this last time to refill about half of the loop, will the new, non-staining dye mix in just fine with the old staining dye or is it best to keep them apart? And how about some pictures of your new non-staining dye in a loop with your new tubing!


----------



## DarthBaggins

So when will these be available at U.S. Retailers?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes, E.g Our normal pink dye is notorious for staining anything it comes into contact with were as the New Pink / Red Dye doesn't stain and could be used as a direct replacement for the pink.
> 
> Video will follow soon.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mick can you give the recipe for those last two pastel blues and first pastel pink?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Debating on pastel or x1 in JAC


----------



## Mayhem

i like being a dick







lol Sorry.

There is no recipe for the colours its simply the new none stain dye plus pastel ice white.

The tubing is going out to testers first before it will be retail, as most of you know this will take some time. More info will come forward once we've finished testing. We've also improved on flexibility to be better than PC but again more infor to come.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> i like being a dick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol Sorry.
> 
> There is no recipe for the colours its simply the new none stain dye plus pastel ice white.
> 
> The tubing is going out to testers first before it will be retail, as most of you know this will take some time. More info will come forward once we've finished testing. We've also improved on flexibility to be better than PC but again more infor to come.


lol Mick. i meant how many drops did it take u to achieve that... come on man


----------



## FrancisJF

The yellow doesn't seem change like their all same color.


----------



## ivoryg37

Do the current Emerald Green Dye + Pastel White stain?


----------



## alepolo101

Hey Mayhem... Is Blitz necessary to clean everything? It's super expensive, especially for a jobless 15 year old. I'm planning on getting non-staining red dye and X1 coolant. If I'm not doing sub-zero or anything, is XT-1 worth it? It's about the same price anyways.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alepolo101*
> 
> Hey Mayhem... Is Blitz necessary to clean everything? It's super expensive, especially for a jobless 15 year old. I'm planning on getting non-staining red dye and X1 coolant. If I'm not doing sub-zero or anything, is XT-1 worth it? It's about the same price anyways.


above all it was developed to a good measure to clean ocool and phobya rads, so far as I am aware off. It is a good cleaning product but if you have rads from other brands which usually have not so dirty rads (HWlabs for example) the good old warm water, shake, distil is all you need.


----------



## alepolo101

Well crap... I ordered an Alphacool XT45 and a Coolgate G2 due to them being the highest performing radiators in their categories (need ~60mm or less 320mm and ~45mm or less 240mm). I can still probably change my order as it hasn't shipped yet. I'm going to be using Phobya red eloops for fans on the 45mm rad and Gentle Typhoon AP-15s on the 60mm rad. Not push/pull. Any recommendations?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I've got a 560mm XT45 Alphacool rad and I like it a lot. I do recommend a cleaning and flush with mayhem's 2 part cleaning system however. I had a lot of contaminants and actual particulates come out of the rad. It's an amazing performer however, so don't let the initial lack of cleanliness deter you.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alepolo101*
> 
> Well crap... I ordered an Alphacool XT45 and a Coolgate G2 due to them being the highest performing radiators in their categories (need ~60mm or less 320mm and ~45mm or less 240mm). I can still probably change my order as it hasn't shipped yet. I'm going to be using Phobya red eloops for fans on the 45mm rad and Gentle Typhoon AP-15s on the 60mm rad. Not push/pull. Any recommendations?


as DRT commented it is a very solid performer. However it is really dirty and have a tendency to alter mayhens pastel colors (specially red, orange) very quickly if not properly cleaned. Personally if you are ordering ocool rads + blitz to clean it would not be better off buying something that is not so dirty? Kind of neglect the bang for the buck (since ocool rads usually are cheaper that other alternatives) if you need to use blitz in order to use pastel. I am just considering here not saying that you should not buy ocool or whatever brand. Just for the record I have 5 ocool rads (from 240 mm to 480 and 420) myself and they do perform quite well. But I cleaned it all of them really well and was lucky to not get one of those units with loose crap (solder balls) inside. But today I would buy other rads like ek or hwlabs which usually are a lot cleaner and better finished. just mine


----------



## alepolo101

Got any recommendations? I chose it not for the price, but because it showed the highest performance. I'll be using eloops on it so I have quite stong fans. Also, got any idea on how the inside of the g2 is going to be?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alepolo101*
> 
> Got any recommendations? I chose it not for the price, but because it showed the highest performance. I'll be using eloops on it so I have quite stong fans. Also, got any idea on how the inside of the g2 is going to be?


check @fast_fate review series of rads at extremerigs.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/

some new models are been added on a daily basis. You need to consider the space you have on your case. All rads need a flush, g2, xspc, ek, swiftech all. Even the cleanest rads I ever saw (Hwlabs) will need a good flush just to be sure. read through the extremerigs reviews of each rad. fast_fate was very through in his review. Try to form your opinion about it. And again I am not saying do not buy ocool. Just be aware that they are dirty and need more attention that all other rads specially when using pastel.


----------



## alepolo101

Heh, if you read my previous post, this was the exact review that led me to the XT45 (highest performing medium size radiator)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alepolo101*
> 
> Heh, if you read my previous post, this was the exact review that led me to the XT45 (highest performing medium size radiator)


good, I suspected so that you were already aware of extremerigs review. but performance is not all is it? fast fate made other considerations that range from finish, cleanness, performance, flow, price and so on. I already said what I personally would buy today as a rad but ultimately this is a personal choice mate.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alepolo101*
> 
> Hey Mayhem... Is Blitz necessary to clean everything? It's super expensive, especially for a jobless 15 year old. I'm planning on getting non-staining red dye and X1 coolant. If I'm not doing sub-zero or anything, is XT-1 worth it? It's about the same price anyways.


On a budget, get the Mayhems Blitz package and just run distilled until you have enough saved up to add dye and pastel or whatever else it is you are needing.

Given the choice ALWAYS go function over form if you have to pick. Mayhems cleaning solution will get rid of all that excess sauter that is gonna come out of those rads and woudl end up wedge in your block leading to even bigger issues. Also that gunk will react with your fluids and make them yucky on top of it .

The only thing designer fluids and dyes are good for (sans going sub zero cooling) is for looks.

Do you want a machine that runs prefect but doesn't have quite as many bells and whistles, or do you want a machine that might break down in 3 months but looks cool?


----------



## alepolo101

Well Hwlabs is like $40 more anyways, so I might as well just get these and some blitz anyways.


----------



## alepolo101

Okay, I'm thinking of swapping the XT45 for a HWlabs 54mm thick rad... Would it reduce performance on the 60mm thick 360mm rad if the HWlabs one was directly infront of about the first third of the first fan slot on the 360mm?


----------



## Mayhem

Get a Mayhems Havoc and just blow them all away and it comes with a free cleaning kit and free Coolant ... saves you a fortune ..







When you consider how much all the parts are individually and you also getting a good quality rad as well







... Problem solved

@Ramzinho Omp i wasn't counting tbh had my head up my ass while doing them. How ever your probably looking at from left to right 1 drop, 2 drop, 4 drops, 8 drops ect per 1 Ltr.

@FrancisJF there is a change via eye but the camera really isn't picking it up that well.

Any way I cocked up all writing on the photos with None and Non. I have adjusted all the labels and photos due to my ineptness in the spelling department.

So here they go again ....


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alepolo101*
> 
> Okay, I'm thinking of swapping the XT45 for a HWlabs 54mm thick rad... Would it reduce performance on the 60mm thick 360mm rad if the HWlabs one was directly infront of about the first third of the first fan slot on the 360mm?


First of all, there are so many factors that go into the performance of rads, it is difficult for any one type of test to show a true winner.

What type of overclocks are you planning on running? Honestly, the performance difference in similar rads (similar size and fpi) may not be super noticeable in an actual loop. From my experience, the loop flow and quality/number/speed of fans are a much bigger determining factor to your loop performance than the rad make.

I would consider the mayhem havoc rad tho. Has been getting solid marks in the testing and it comes with blitz and fluid (can't remember if it's x1 or xt1).

I haven't gotten to put in a Mayhem's rad yet, but historically, in order from most to least, I have liked HWLabs, XSPC, then alphacool for my top 3. The HWLabs and XSPC are two of the most clean rads on the market, and alphacool is the least clean on the market.


----------



## Ramzinho

You need a bit darker background for the bottle photos mick


----------



## alepolo101

How many drops is the darkest red? And I am considering a mayhem rad... But it's so dang thick and one of mine need to be a bit thinner. Unless do you think having one of my rads partially obstructed (the side of the top rad right behind the side rad). This is a good pic of my case with a 45mm and 60mm:







could I bump up the size a little bit on the top one. I think I've got fans covered, push gentle typhoons and eloops. The flow rate seems to be pretty important too, do you think the alphacool DDC310 is enough, or would I get noticeable better performance with a D5 Various or DDC 3.25 based pump?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alepolo101*
> 
> How many drops is the darkest red? And I am considering a mayhem rad... But it's so dang thick and one of mine need to be a bit thinner. Unless do you think having one of my rads partially obstructed (the side of the top rad right behind the side rad). This is a good pic of mycase with a 45mm and 60mm: could I bump up the size a little bit on the top one. I think I've got fans covered, push gentle typhoons and eloops. The flow rate seems to be pretty important too, do you think the alphacool DDC310 is enough, or would I get noticeable better performance with a D5 Various or DDC 3.25 based pump?


Don't think the pic posted


----------



## alepolo101

Fixed the pic (sorry on mobile)


----------



## RpeeKooz

Hey guys
Going to be adding my aurora 2 red coolant tonight.few questions before I do so
I have an ek tube res.it says to use the foam insert for the bottom ports.if I use the foam will the aurora particles stay together and last as long as it should or can I take the foam out with no issues?
When I drained my loop yesterday I still have about 200ml of distilled in my rads that's I can't get out.what can I do about that?.make the aurora 550ml of distilled instead of 750?
Cheers


----------



## Ramzinho

the foam insert is kinda of an anti cyclone thing. ek has a plastic logo that does that too... guess you dont need both


----------



## guitarhero23

How long are you going to keep the aurora in?


----------



## RpeeKooz

I change every 6-8 months.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> I change every 6-8 months.


Bet that saves on your weekly clothes wash?


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Bet that saves on your weekly clothes wash?


Hahaha sure does: ).do I need to foam insert or the acrylic ek sign


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Bet that saves on your weekly clothes wash?


It does , and i still feel clean from the shower i had last year









Starting my build log tonight , got the last of my parts , give rads a clean after some case mods tomorrow


----------



## tipes

Quick question for you guys. I have a UT60 480 Rad which has been used before, but stored for a few months. I decided to just put some blitz part two in it and leave for 24hrs.
Will this be ok just to give it a bit of a clean? I will flush out with tap water and hose etc and then distilled.

On another point, I recently updated my D5 pump to a 450S strong d5 pump, but only running at 12v at the moment - waiting on converter/controller. I have a problem though that is quite weird:-
When I fill the loop the pump struggles to get the fluid round the loop, and just wondering if I could have a partial blocjkage or something in the Mayhems 480 rad - I say this because it is also almost impossible to get the air out. Any ideas guys?

My loop consists of Mayhems 480Rad,Koolance pmp 450S, 80mm tube res and Koolance 450s rev2.1 pump/res base. Never had so much of a problem with the previous rad and D5 pump - not sure if I have a dodgy pump or rad or both?????

Any advice/thoughts welcome.

Mark


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Quick question for you guys. I have a UT60 480 Rad which has been used before, but stored for a few months. I decided to just put some blitz part two in it and leave for 24hrs.
> Will this be ok just to give it a bit of a clean? I will flush out with tap water and hose etc and then distilled.
> 
> On another point, I recently updated my D5 pump to a 450S strong d5 pump, but only running at 12v at the moment - waiting on converter/controller. I have a problem though that is quite weird:-
> When I fill the loop the pump struggles to get the fluid round the loop, and just wondering if I could have a partial blocjkage or something in the Mayhems 480 rad - I say this because it is also almost impossible to get the air out. Any ideas guys?
> 
> My loop consists of Mayhems 480Rad,Koolance pmp 450S, 80mm tube res and Koolance 450s rev2.1 pump/res base. Never had so much of a problem with the previous rad and D5 pump - not sure if I have a dodgy pump or rad or both?????
> 
> Any advice/thoughts welcome.
> 
> Mark


Well, blitz part 2 needs to circulate and will not do much if you just leave it still for awhile, so if this is what you've done, probably not. You probably would be OK to run part 2 thru it (and rest of system) to clean it, however.

You should check for small leaks. I've had a fitting that want quite tightened enough that has caused my pump to do that.

I highly recommend (to everyone in general) to air leak test, which could make finding the problem easier and cleaner


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Well, blitz part 2 needs to circulate and will not do much if you just leave it still for awhile, so if this is what you've done, probably not. You probably would be OK to run part 2 thru it (and rest of system) to clean it, however.
> 
> You should check for small leaks. I've had a fitting that want quite tightened enough that has caused my pump to do that.
> 
> I highly recommend (to everyone in general) to air leak test, which could make finding the problem easier and cleaner


Hi Cyphon,

Thanks for the reply - only used blitz part two standing- as the rad is not in the machine. Suppose what I should have done is rigged up a spare pump and some tubing just to the rad, would that work?

As for a leak - funny you should say that as I thought to myself a while ago that it seems to be sucking in air somewhere, but then I rationalised that if that was the case - I would have a leak, and would see it. The res fluid is not dropping, but will have to have another look somehow. Very frustrating though, and I am not sure if your idea explains the slow almost nil flow when filling the loop, and getting air out - oh I don't know, just not sure of best way to proceed here?

Thanks again for your help though - any more ideas welcome.

Mark


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Hi Cyphon,
> 
> Thanks for the reply - only used blitz part two standing- as the rad is not in the machine. Suppose what I should have done is rigged up a spare pump and some tubing just to the rad, would that work?
> 
> As for a leak - funny you should say that as I thought to myself a while ago that it seems to be sucking in air somewhere, but then I rationalised that if that was the case - I would have a leak, and would see it. The res fluid is not dropping, but will have to have another look somehow. Very frustrating though, and I am not sure if your idea explains the slow almost nil flow when filling the loop, and getting air out - oh I don't know, just not sure of best way to proceed here?
> 
> Thanks again for your help though - any more ideas welcome.
> 
> Mark


I'd just wait until you have your rad in system and run pt 2 thru the while thing. It'll be overall a good thing to do.

As a sanity check, make sure your power cable is connected to the correct voltage supply line. Also just go back over the fittings and give them a little extra turn.

Nucular option, remove pump, setup test loop, try and run it again to see if you have the same problem. It could be a broken pump


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Hi Cyphon,
> 
> Thanks for the reply - only used blitz part two standing- as the rad is not in the machine. Suppose what I should have done is rigged up a spare pump and some tubing just to the rad, would that work?
> 
> As for a leak - funny you should say that as I thought to myself a while ago that it seems to be sucking in air somewhere, but then I rationalised that if that was the case - I would have a leak, and would see it. The res fluid is not dropping, but will have to have another look somehow. Very frustrating though, and I am not sure if your idea explains the slow almost nil flow when filling the loop, and getting air out - oh I don't know, just not sure of best way to proceed here?
> 
> Thanks again for your help though - any more ideas welcome.
> 
> Mark


Air lock. I just finally filled my system up to clean it with part 2 after getting my dual pump installed and i had similar issues with almost no flow when i first started filling. I have a clear dual pump top so i can see the pumps impellers and there was indeed air in there. Almost no fluid would exit the pump and the res level wasnt dropping except for a tiny bit. I just turned the pump on and off and eventually the air lock moved through and it started sucking water through.

Strangely enough i did not have the air lock problem the second time i tried it (first i leak tested for an hour with distilled, that was when i had the air lock, then i used blitz part 2 and had no such air lock problems).


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Hey all, it's time to flush my system, liquid has been running for 1 year.

Now I'm thinking about what to get, pastel green, pastel yellow or pastel purple. My current loop is in rig picture.

Also is the Primochill advanced lrt still the best tubing?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Hey all, it's time to flush my system, liquid has been running for 1 year.
> 
> Now I'm thinking about what to get, pastel green, pastel yellow or pastel purple. My current loop is in rig picture.
> 
> Also is the Primochill advanced lrt still the best tubing?


So far as i know advance lrt is still the most recommended tubing.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well ordered some Blood Red X1 for the J.A.C. build can wait to use it and still need to drain the R,C70 to put in the Pastel Mint Green I've had for a couple months now just haven't gotten around to it with the move and all.


----------



## Mayhem

All the rads when bought from mayhems are aired and also checked for blockages and solder flux before being sold.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Hey all, it's time to flush my system, liquid has been running for 1 year.
> 
> Now I'm thinking about what to get, pastel green, pastel yellow or pastel purple. My current loop is in rig picture.
> 
> Also is the Primochill advanced lrt still the best tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> So far as i know advance lrt is still the most recommended tubing.
Click to expand...

For now !!!!!!


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> For now !!!!!!


indeed.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Air lock. I just finally filled my system up to clean it with part 2 after getting my dual pump installed and i had similar issues with almost no flow when i first started filling. I have a clear dual pump top so i can see the pumps impellers and there was indeed air in there. Almost no fluid would exit the pump and the res level wasnt dropping except for a tiny bit. I just turned the pump on and off and eventually the air lock moved through and it started sucking water through.
> 
> Strangely enough i did not have the air lock problem the second time i tried it (first i leak tested for an hour with distilled, that was when i had the air lock, then i used blitz part 2 and had no such air lock problems).


Thanks for your input on this. I hope that this is indeed the problem, as I can't see the new pump as really being the problem as they either work or don't. hopefully when I re build the loop with hardline tubing the problem will go away. May blitz the mayhems rad first just in case.

Thanks again

Mark


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'd just wait until you have your rad in system and run pt 2 thru the while thing. It'll be overall a good thing to do.
> 
> As a sanity check, make sure your power cable is connected to the correct voltage supply line. Also just go back over the fittings and give them a little extra turn.
> 
> Nucular option, remove pump, setup test loop, try and run it again to see if you have the same problem. It could be a broken pump


Many thanks - will re check, and do pt2 within the loop when I re build it soon. Hope the pump does not have a fault, but will test outside of loop if necessary with a test loop as you suggest.

Mark


----------



## Mayhem

Been asked on another forum for the mix ratio to make gigabyte orange with the new non stain dyes so ill post it here as well.

7ml of non stain Yellow
1 ml of non stain Pink / Red
Per 1 Ltr of Pastel Ice white

to make a Orange close to gigabyte's own colour. Add more pink / red for a deeper colour, more yellow for brightness. Id suggest if mixing this you self buy some 1 ml pipets or plastic syringes.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just thought since I'm going to use x1 can I add a pastel booster or a concentrate concentrate to it later, or is that not recommended. Could've sworn I had seen it mentioned previously but can't find post.

Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Tapatalk


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Been asked on another forum for the mix ratio to make gigabyte orange with the new non stain dyes so ill post it here as well.
> 
> 7ml of non stain Yellow
> 1 ml of non stain Pink / Red
> Per 1 Ltr of Pastel Ice white
> 
> to make a Orange close to gigabyte's own colour. Add more pink / red for a deeper colour, more yellow for brightness. Id suggest if mixing this you self buy some 1 ml pipets or plastic syringes.


Just out of curiosity, how many drops from the Mayhem's bottles make a mL? Is it 20?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, how many drops from the Mayhem's bottles make a mL? Is it 20?


A 'drop' isn't a standard size. Different droppers / pipettes dispense different sized drops. Use a graduated beaker / dropper / pipette with ml markings if you want precise measurements whenever adding anything more than a couple drops.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A 'drop' isn't a standard size. Different droppers / pipettes dispense different sized drops. Use a graduated beaker / dropper / pipette with ml markings if you want precise measurements whenever adding anything more than a couple drops.


Yeah, I understand the need for a precise measurement and a drop isn't that. But for any specific dropper (Mayhem's bottle for example) there should be a valid approximation for the conversion


----------



## VSG

~22-25 but it's a rough estimate


----------



## DemiseGR

Hi all,
My mayhems pastel red coolant has turned purple over the course of the last couple of weeks. Thoughts, Corrosion ?
No blue dye added, no drop in flow



sorry for the potato phone pic
thanks


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DemiseGR*
> 
> Hi all,
> My mayhems pastel red coolant has turned purple over the course of the last couple of weeks. Thoughts, Corrosion ?
> No blue dye added, no drop in flow
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for the potato phone pic
> thanks


what tubes are you using?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DemiseGR*
> 
> Hi all,
> My mayhems pastel red coolant has turned purple over the course of the last couple of weeks. Thoughts, Corrosion ?
> No blue dye added, no drop in flow
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for the potato phone pic
> thanks


Usually rad flux. How did you clean the rads before filling the loop. Also, which rads are you using

Edit: I see the alphacool rad now... That's your problem. Those suckers need thorough cleaning. It was the motivation for the blitz kits that mayhem put out


----------



## DemiseGR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> what tubes are you using?


tubing is Masterkleer Hi-Flex, i've already ordered Tygon R3603 tubing as i was going to swap some things out later this week
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Usually rad flux. How did you clean the rads before filling the loop. Also, which rads are you using
> 
> Edit: I see the alphacool rad now... That's your problem. Those suckers need thorough cleaning. It was the motivation for the blitz kits that mayhem put out


hmm i've had it fine for 6months or so, its only now the problem appears, but i do remember only giving cleaning it 3-4 times with tap water and then distiled

thx for the help guys, i'll clean the look, change the tubing this weekend. will report back. In the meantime, any other ideas, keep em coming.

Thanks


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DemiseGR*
> 
> tubing is Masterkleer Hi-Flex, i've already ordered Tygon R3603 tubing as i was going to swap some things out later this week
> hmm i've had it fine for 6months or so, its only now the problem appears, but i do remember only giving cleaning it 3-4 times with tap water and then distiled
> 
> thx for the help guys, i'll clean the look, change the tubing this weekend. will report back. In the meantime, any other ideas, keep em coming.
> 
> Thanks


Definitely not enough cleaning for alphacool. There's plenty of variables that go into the fluid changing color and how fast it happens. Look at the blitz pro kit in the future for new rads, especially alphacool


----------



## madmalkav

You can't believe how much dirt is on Alphacool / Phobya rads until you flush them with Blitz. The liquid come out blue and with a lot of small particles.


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> You can't believe how much dirt is on Alphacool / Phobya rads until you flush them with Blitz. The liquid come out blue and with a lot of small particles.


Had a new Xt45 360mm rad. I did a vinegar wash on it three times and distilled water shake quite a few times. After 3 months of use I found a ton of paint still and solder in the rad that never got out. Hopefully when I finish the build it will be clean as it can be. My Monsta 360 seems a little more difficult to clean however.


----------



## Bluemustang

Guess i got lucky. I blitzed both of my alphacools (xt45 and ut60 480mms) and both turned the fluid blue but there was hardly any bits that came out (maybe just a few specks), and i did shake them like a mad man with distilled a few times both before and after blitz part 1.

Part 2 still turned a slight blue tint as well though (which i am running right this moment actually) so hopefully thatll get all whatever that blue stuff is out after i rinse part 2 out today (guide suggests running and draining distilled twice after part 2, im gonna do it 5 times since i cant really hook up to faucet).


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Well, blitz part 2 needs to circulate and will not do much if you just leave it still for awhile, so if this is what you've done, probably not. You probably would be OK to run part 2 thru it (and rest of system) to clean it, however.
> 
> You should check for small leaks. I've had a fitting that want quite tightened enough that has caused my pump to do that.
> 
> I highly recommend (to everyone in general) to air leak test, which could make finding the problem easier and cleaner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Cyphon,
> 
> Thanks for the reply - only used blitz part two standing- as the rad is not in the machine. Suppose what I should have done is rigged up a spare pump and some tubing just to the rad, would that work?
> 
> As for a leak - funny you should say that as I thought to myself a while ago that it seems to be sucking in air somewhere, but then I rationalised that if that was the case - I would have a leak, and would see it. The res fluid is not dropping, but will have to have another look somehow. Very frustrating though, and I am not sure if your idea explains the slow almost nil flow when filling the loop, and getting air out - oh I don't know, just not sure of best way to proceed here?
> 
> Thanks again for your help though - any more ideas welcome.
> 
> Mark
Click to expand...

Probably air bubbles in the pump. Keep in mind if you're using flex tubing your res level WILL drop. Flex tubing dries out and loses flexibility, except it doesn't because it absorbs coolant to keep itself flexible. Oxygen and C02 can also dissolve into the water, and find it's way out resulting in a loss in coolant volume.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Air lock. I just finally filled my system up to clean it with part 2 after getting my dual pump installed and i had similar issues with almost no flow when i first started filling. I have a clear dual pump top so i can see the pumps impellers and there was indeed air in there. Almost no fluid would exit the pump and the res level wasnt dropping except for a tiny bit. I just turned the pump on and off and eventually the air lock moved through and it started sucking water through.
> 
> Strangely enough i did not have the air lock problem the second time i tried it (first i leak tested for an hour with distilled, that was when i had
> the air lock, then i used blitz part 2 and had no such air lock problems).


For future reference that's ill advised. The bearings in your pump require coolant for lubrication. Running it with significant air in the system can cause the bearings to wear themselves out REALLY fast. You can kill your pump that way. Best thing I can suggest is to grab a piece of tubing from the highest point in your loop, suck in it to force liquid through the pump, and prime it that way if you're having trouble with air lock bubbles in the pump. Make sure you don't get any coolant in your mouth, all mayhems coolants are non toxic but they still taste like sin. (Don't ask, okay?)

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Hey all, it's time to flush my system, liquid has been running for 1 year.
> 
> Now I'm thinking about what to get, pastel green, pastel yellow or pastel purple. My current loop is in rig picture.
> 
> Also is the Primochill advanced lrt still the best tubing?


From what I can see your rig has a white base. You can go with pretty much any colour and it'll fit. As far as flex tubing goes, primochill advance LRT is the best out there for the time being.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DemiseGR*
> 
> Hi all,
> My mayhems pastel red coolant has turned purple over the course of the last couple of weeks. Thoughts, Corrosion ?
> No blue dye added, no drop in flow
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for the potato phone pic
> thanks


Dear lord, that looks like Aurora purple. Did you just inject a syringe of flux into your rad before filling?







It's not corrosion, if it was I'd think your rig would be shooting water out of a bunch of seams with that level of discolouration. Probably flux. You didn't, by any chance, have an EG based corrosion additive did you? (TFC Corrosion Blocker, etc.) They have additives that turn blue when pH falls out of appropriate levels. I'd blitz your rads, and try again. That /should/ fix any issues.

-Z


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> For future reference that's ill advised. The bearings in your pump require coolant for lubrication. Running it with significant air in the system can cause the bearings to wear themselves out REALLY fast. You can kill your pump that way. Best thing I can suggest is to grab a piece of tubing from the highest point in your loop, suck in it to force liquid through the pump, and prime it that way if you're having trouble with air lock bubbles in the pump. Make sure you don't get any coolant in your mouth, all mayhems coolants are non toxic but they still taste like sin. (Don't ask, okay?)


The pumps were not empty of water, they were just air locked (about 1/8th or so top of pump was air) so plenty of water was still spinning around the pumps.

From what ive heard as long as there is water in the pump it is being lubricated and it is fine (think it was jayz2cents and/or singularitycomputers that said that). And there were no grinding sounds, air just wouldnt exit until i cycled the pump a dozen times or so.

Also, cant grab tubing and suck it through, its rigid tubing.


----------



## DemiseGR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Dear lord, that looks like Aurora purple. Did you just inject a syringe of flux into your rad before filling?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not corrosion, if it was I'd think your rig would be shooting water out of a bunch of seams with that level of discolouration. Probably flux. You didn't, by any chance, have an EG based corrosion additive did you? (TFC Corrosion Blocker, etc.) They have additives that turn blue when pH falls out of appropriate levels. I'd blitz your rads, and try again. That /should/ fix any issues.
> 
> -Z


It's a cool colour dont get me wrong, but it doesnt suit the red








No additives, just mayhems pastel red.
Rad Flux seems to be the prevalent cause, will clean over the weekend.

thx


----------



## MrGrievous

Are there any more white 240mm Havoc radiators being produced? I live on campus so panting is not much of a option here for me unfortunately.


----------



## Mayhem

Im afraid we wont be doing any white rads at the moment.


----------



## madmalkav

@Mayhem I sent the email as you said me, they replied with the total and asking my phone number for the courier, I sent the info and never got a reply. I'm afraid my emails can be going to spam folder, can you ask them to check it please?


----------



## M3TAl

What's next after Mayhem's non-staining dye, grills, and tubing? Mayhem's fans? Something to finally dethrone AP-15 in noise/perf?

Then again the fan market already has a ton of players in it.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What's next after Mayhem's non-staining dye, grills, and tubing? Mayhem's fans? Something to finally dethrone AP-15 in noise/perf?
> 
> Then again the fan market already has a ton of players in it.


Illusions and Chameleon are still on the backburner of the coolant side IIRC, so maybe more coolant options.

-Z


----------



## Vintage

So if I understand correctly the non staining dye is only different from pastel in that is is only the dye with no additives, right?


----------



## Bertovzki

How much coolant do you recon this loop will need if i full the 270 res up 3/4 full , or even if it as full , i have one 250ml x1 UV Yellow / green concentrate

It will be one Aquacomputer Hawaii 290 GPU block and rigid 10 /12 acrylic

One bottle enough ? 1 x XSPC 420 and 1 x XSPC 280


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> So if I understand correctly the non staining dye is only different from pastel in that is is only the dye with no additives, right?


It's just dye. Contains no biocides, no corrosion inhibitors, etc. It can be safely mixed with all mayhems coolants.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> How much coolant do you recon this loop will need if i full the 270 res up 3/4 full , or even if it as full , i have one 250ml x1 UV Yellow / green concentrate
> 
> It will be one Aquacomputer Hawaii 290 GPU block and rigid 10 /12 acrylic
> 
> One bottle enough ? 1 x XSPC 420 and 1 x XSPC 280


Concentrate of what? Pastel makes 1 liter. (Probably cutting it close), while X1 makes 1.75liters. I would imagine, assuming those are slim line radiators, 1.75l would be enough. 1 Liter is playing it a little close.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmalkav*
> 
> @Mayhem I sent the email as you said me, they replied with the total and asking my phone number for the courier, I sent the info and never got a reply. I'm afraid my emails can be going to spam folder, can you ask them to check it please?


Send everything over to me "michael at mayhems dot co dot uk" ill track it all down. We were all out of the office yesterday so may have been missed.


----------



## Mayhem

Sorry to correct the new non staining dyes contain a biocide to protect the dyes over a longer period of time and also are non staining because they coated to prevent absorption on some materials. Even though they do contain a biocide it is only enough to protect the dye not a water cooling system but the biocide is compatible with all coolants we make at the moment.

We have "not" tested the dye on any other coolant except the ones we make so all EK,Mayhems, DimasTech coolants are fine.

Rads still need cleaning though there is no avoidance of that. The due will still be precipitated into tubing again something we cannot stop.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It's just dye. Contains no biocides, no corrosion inhibitors, etc. It can be safely mixed with all mayhems coolants.
> 
> -Z
> Concentrate of what? Pastel makes 1 liter. (Probably cutting it close), while X1 makes 1.75liters. I would imagine, assuming those are slim line radiators, 1.75l would be enough. 1 Liter is playing it a little close.
> 
> -Z


It says in post X1 UV yellow / green 250ml, concentrate, thank you , you have answered my question , i may get another to be sure , but from memory it makes 2 liters not 1.75 ltrs


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> It says in post X1 UV yellow / green 250ml, concentrate, thank you , you have answered my question , i may get another to be sure , but from memory it makes 2 liters not 1.75 ltrs


So much fail... *walks away in shame* (Guess I need to stop doing CAM homework and trying to type stuff at the same time)

-Z


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> So much fail... *walks away in shame* (Guess I need to stop doing CAM homework and trying to type stuff at the same time)
> 
> -Z


You never fail Z , your help is always fully appreciated , if i had typed a big capitol " X " you would not have missed it , but i typed a punny little insignificant x that was easy to miss







, and it is confirmed it is 2 liters it makes


----------



## Mayhem

Custom Colour made up for a sponsorship request using non stain dyes and pastel.


----------



## Rahldrac

How important is it to get out EVERYTHING of the blitz part two? My system is kinda hard to drain, so I can not get it "completely dry". I have drain it (as much as I can), then added distilled. Drained again, distilled, drain distilled.
So Drain+distilled x3, I guess after a while it must become diluted enough?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> How important is it to get out EVERYTHING of the blitz part two? My system is kinda hard to drain, so I can not get it "completely dry". I have drain it (as much as I can), then added distilled. Drained again, distilled, drain distilled.
> So Drain+distilled x3, I guess after a while it must become diluted enough?


I keep diluting and checking pH until it's close to 7


----------



## EAnushan

Wondering if these dyes stain components when used with Pastel White? I believe the UV versions do, but not sure about these.

https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/15ml_mayhems_dye_blue_dark/
https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/15ml_mayhems_dye_red_deep/


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I keep diluting and checking pH until it's close to 7


Yay, my PH meter did not work. Luckily I had a second package, and the one in that one worked. Now I have an opened unused (except for a PH meter) though.

How close to 7 is close? The scale is logarithmic so 0.6? 0.2? 0.1? Thanks!


----------



## Mayhem

PH 7.2 is perfect but between 6.8 and 7.8 is fine. If you need a replacement PH meter let me know and we will ship it out to you. Im surprised it doesn't work though as i've hand tested every single meter we've sold.


----------



## Rahldrac

I settled on 7.3 good to know that it was okay








I might have broken it of course, but I only rinsed the lower part in distilled. It went from blank, to 5.3 to 12.5 rapidly. Never settles on anything.

Nah, you have been so helpful in this thread that just keep the pH meter!
I am happy with everything so far, now I just want to play some games ^^


----------



## Mayhem

Excellent well the offer is always there as we have a no quibble warranty for anything we sell. If you aint happy, were not happy







.

Glad to see you have a tight meter reading now though 7.3 is dammed near perfect







.


----------



## ozzy1925

i watched a video on youtube about the ph meter calibation, the man used 2 types of powder : mixed phosphate ph 6.86 (i have )and potassium hydrogen phosphate ph 4.0 which i couldnt see in my blitz kit .Is it necessary to get potassium hydrogen phosphate ph 4.0 for us ?


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quick question.
I added my aurora 2 red to my loop last night.the ph was 7.when I mixed it the colour was more of a blood red and not a pastel bright red.don't get me wrong it looks awesome just wanna know if I didn't shake it enough.and is there any way to brighten it up a little.dye wise?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Custom Colour made up for a sponsorship request using non stain dyes and pastel.


Barney the dinosaur, or Tinky Winky the purple Teletubby doing a build?

D.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> Quick question.
> I added my aurora 2 red to my loop last night.the ph was 7.when I mixed it the colour was more of a blood red and not a pastel bright red.don't get me wrong it looks awesome just wanna know if I didn't shake it enough.and is there any way to brighten it up a little.dye wise?


Pics would be great to help determine for sure. Some white light might brighten it up quite a bit.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Custom Colour made up for a sponsorship request using non stain dyes and pastel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Barney the dinosaur, or Tinky Winky the purple Teletubby doing a build?
> 
> D.
Click to expand...

I would pay to see that. Imagine someone in one of those costumes trying to put a motherboard in a chassis, use a screwdriver to install it, put in a CPU and seat a heatsink struggling every step of the way in that giant clunky suit.









-Z


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Pics would be great to help determine for sure. Some white light might brighten it up quite a bit.
> 
> -Z


Yeah will do when I get home from work


----------



## emsj86

I have pastel white new. What do I need to get the jersey color. Kelly green


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I have pastel white new. What do I need to get the jersey color. Kelly green


emerald green dye should pretty much do it


----------



## electro2u

ordered some stuff from the mayhems website yesterday. Felt so special I had a 1/2 price discount given to me somehow. Made it a good bit cheaper than ordering from a retailer even with shipping across the pond. Pretty cool.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> ordered some stuff from the mayhems website yesterday. Felt so special I had a 1/2 price discount given to me somehow. Made it a good bit cheaper than ordering from a retailer even with shipping across the pond. Pretty cool.


Nice. Although I am still waiting for my package posted on *Monday 2 February 2015*


----------



## electro2u

Yeah but your water drains counter clockwise so the package has to go through the center of the Earth first.


----------



## Soxism

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> PH 7.2 is perfect but between 6.8 and 7.8 is fine.


For Us Peasant whom do not know much. Can i recommend that this information be put into the Blitz Pro Packages. For me when using the Testing Kit this was the most confusing aspect of the procedure and i was unsure what to do if my water or coolant wasn't within a "Range" or had to be EXACTLY 7.2


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> emerald green dye should pretty much do it


Is that in pastel or just a dye? Nvm of course it's a dye. Think I'll go that route and change my build to black white green with silver fittings or black fittings


----------



## Mayhem

The 50% discount was a mistake, You will have been refunded the amount as it was a test i was running and it wasn't supposed to be for the public to use lol.
Any thing late in the post or missing you'll need to contact sales at mayhems dot co dot uk as they deal with all sales and shipping not me. Its itf over a certain time they will re ship the order.

Mick


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is that in pastel or just a dye? Nvm of course it's a dye. Think I'll go that route and change my build to black white green with silver fittings or black fittings


I'd consider white fittings. would look good with that color green








Not sure which case you got, but would also look good in a white case


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nice. Although I am still waiting for my package posted on *Monday 2 February 2015*


You should start looking for forward service.. Check if aramex exist in Brazil and ask if they offer shop and ship.. trust me you will never regret it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> You should start looking for forward service.. Check if aramex exist in Brazil and ask if they offer shop and ship.. trust me you will never regret it.


yep thks mate I am considering. In this case things seems to come very slow from Uk to Sao Paulo. Not sure why but when I used to shop at specialtech packages would take a month to get here but eventually would get here. But I did have tracking on those orders and for some reason there was no option to ship the order with tracking this time, only the cheapest mail service with no tracking.

On a side note this kit comes with both parts of blitz?

http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-system-clone.html


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The 50% discount was a mistake, You will have been refunded the amount as it was a test i was running and it wasn't supposed to be for the public to use lol.


K so the order was cancelled? Good to know
Edit:
Ohh... I turned sync off on my phone so I missed the cancellation notice







I'll reorder without the blitz basic kit


----------



## ivoryg37

I had green dye around and try to make pastel green but it just made it some weird color. I do like it though


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I had green dye around and try to make pastel green but it just made it some weird color. I do like it though


You just need more dye if you want it to be vibrant like the pre-dyed


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You just need more dye if you want it to be vibrant like the pre-dyed


I will try to add more later. Thanks for the advice


----------



## DarthBaggins

I dunno I personally dig that shade










Blood Red x1 arrived!


----------



## Ramzinho

ok so wife doesn't like the pastel , she wants clear, i'll be using distiled water + the new non staining due + soft tubing.. should i go biocide or silver kill coil?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> ok so wife doesn't like the pastel , she wants clear, i'll be using distiled water + the new non staining due + soft tubing.. should i go biocide or silver kill coil?


Just go with X1 clear, and it'll have everything you need already in it.

D.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> ok so wife doesn't like the pastel , she wants clear, i'll be using distiled water + the new non staining due + soft tubing.. should i go biocide or silver kill coil?
> 
> 
> 
> Just go with X1 clear, and it'll have everything you need already in it.
> 
> D.
Click to expand...

You have got it all wrong.

@Ramzinho .......... Get a new wife.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You have got it all wrong.
> 
> @Ramzinho .......... Get a new wife.


That Made My day Mich







... i laughed so hard







.. thankfully she didn't read it .. else you would be dead by now ..









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Just go with X1 clear, and it'll have everything you need already in it.
> 
> D.


I like that idea


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> ok so wife doesn't like the pastel , she wants clear, i'll be using distiled water + the new non staining due + soft tubing.. should i go biocide or silver kill coil?


X1, it's transparent like water. Biocide doesn't have any corrosion inhibitors and has been known to kill UV effects, and SOME (benzyl chloride) obliterate most any dyes. Silver kill coils aren't 100% effective against microbes.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You have got it all wrong.
> 
> @Ramzinho .......... Get a new wife.


lel. In all seriousness, I can understand her opinions. Pastel (or most opaque fluids for that matter) draws attention to the coolant. Some builds it's better to have the coolant highlight the build.. And then there's aurora, for when you REALLY want the coolant to shine. (quite literally)









-Z


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Just go with X1 clear, and it'll have everything you need already in it.
> 
> D.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> X1, it's transparent like water. Biocide doesn't have any corrosion inhibitors and has been known to kill UV effects, and SOME (benzyl chloride) obliterate most any dyes. Silver kill coils aren't 100% effective against microbes.
> 
> -Z
> lel. In all seriousness, I can understand her opinions. Pastel (or most opaque fluids for that matter) draws attention to the coolant. Some builds it's better to have the coolant highlight the build.. And then there's aurora, for when you REALLY want the coolant to shine. (quite literally)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


i can understand that. but pastel complements good builds a lot. and it's just feels like something different. i'm going pastel myself... and so yes i'll get the X1


----------



## DarthBaggins

2nd to last flush, looking very good. Allot came out of the rads overnight


----------



## Mayhem

Sample testing on tubing


----------



## Ramzinho

are the tubing meant to be red.. or is it staining from the dye?


----------



## Mayhem

Its just a pic to show some testing in house, nothing more. Cannot go into too much detail but this is some of the in house testing we do to get answers to questions that many people ask and some don't ask. It aids in our understanding of what happens when things go wrong.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its just a pic to show some testing in house, nothing more. Cannot go into too much detail but this is some of the in house testing we do to get answers to questions that many people ask and some don't ask. It aids in our understanding of what happens when things go wrong.


Oh ok.. so this is not final products yet.. i didn't understand that.. Thanks mick for sharing..









What's next BLOCKS







.... I love how fast Mayhem is growing.. Keep up the good work man.


----------



## Mayhem

BTW thats not our tubing. Thatsjust one of the tests we did on other tubing to work out what we needed to do.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> BTW thats not our tubing. Thatsjust one of the tests we did on other tubing to work out what we needed to do.


That's good to know







... thanks for sharing mick.

-Ramz


----------



## corysti

Hey guys, I have a question or need some advice. I have a new white case lab s8 coming in the first of next month. I also have the sabetooth z97 mark s (the one with white shield and pcb) so it's mainly a white build but I was wondering what off color do you think would look good for my coolant. I'm wanting to have all white except for the coolant. I can't decide between grey, black, mint green or a blue either in pastel or X1. Any help?


----------



## Ramzinho

Well Black and White builds have been so popular lately.. and i've seen a guy post a white build with green pastel.. and man this looked amazing.. i think it's on the last 4 pages of the WC gallery thread.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a question or need some advice. I have a new white case lab s8 coming in the first of next month. I also have the sabetooth z97 mark s (the one with white shield and pcb) so it's mainly a white build but I was wondering what off color do you think would look good for my coolant. I'm wanting to have all white except for the coolant. I can't decide between grey, black, mint green or a blue either in pastel or X1. Any help?


I'd do mint green pastel + green dye to make it more bold or blue pastel (perhaps add a little more blue to it as well to make it bold). Either one of those would really pop, I think


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Well Black and White builds have been so popular lately.. and i've seen a guy post a white build with green pastel.. and man this looked amazing.. i think it's on the last 4 pages of the WC gallery thread.


Search green molecule build on overclock.net to see white and green build. Well I recent one


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Since we're talking about coolant color coordination, I have a question for you guys.

Okay, so my Olympus Mk II build will be interesting in that I want to incorporate a steampunk-esque theme to it (including a recent idea of incorporating a working clock built right into the side window). I plan to ditch pretty much everything about the Air 540 except the basic internal skeleton work and rebuilding the panels using richly-stained wood, brass fixtures, and brown or black leather as well as new power buttons and such.

As far as the water loop I want to put in, I intend to use Bitspowers Bronze Age fittings to fit the theme. That or figure out how to correctly patina the True Brass fittings.

I had planned to either run copper or brass tubing for the water lines (which would eliminate the need for this question at all) or go with a rigid acrylic tubing.

My question to you guys is this: What color or combination of colors would you recommend for this particular design aesthetic?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Since we're talking about coolant color coordination, I have a question for you guys.
> 
> Okay, so my Olympus Mk II build will be interesting in that I want to incorporate a steampunk-esque theme to it (including a recent idea of incorporating a working clock built right into the side window). I plan to ditch pretty much everything about the Air 540 except the basic internal skeleton work and rebuilding the panels using richly-stained wood, brass fixtures, and brown or black leather as well as new power buttons and such.
> 
> As far as the water loop I want to put in, I intend to use Bitspowers Bronze Age fittings to fit the theme. That or figure out how to correctly patina the True Brass fittings.
> 
> I had planned to either run copper or brass tubing for the water lines (which would eliminate the need for this question at all) or go with a rigid acrylic tubing.
> 
> My question to you guys is this: What color or combination of colors would you recommend for this particular design aesthetic?


If you're willing to go the extra mile and design it for Aurora you can use Aurora gold, that would go good with that and look pretty steampunkish

http://cdn.overclock.net/3/31/31ace388_Yy2WFg5.jpeg

-Z


----------



## TheMadProfessor

The Aurora Gold by itself is a bit... pale in color. What would you recommend mixing it with to get a deeper, richer color?


----------



## Mayhem

Mix it with black.


----------



## chronokairo

hi mayhem.
i purchased the pastel green, blue dye and uv yellow/green dye.
i already finish 2 bottles of uv yellow/green dye and did not went to neon green. (did not use blue)
any suggestions to make neon green? i dont want to put uv lights on my case.








thanks


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronokairo*
> 
> hi mayhem.
> i purchased the pastel green, blue dye and uv yellow/green dye.
> i already finish 2 bottles of uv yellow/green dye and did not went to neon green. (did not use blue)
> any suggestions to make neon green? i dont want to put uv lights on my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


From what Ive used with the Yellow/Green... its needs some UV to get that glow you are looking for.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mix it with black.


Let's say I mixed Aurora Gold and Oil Black together and tossed in a drop or two of orange... Would that give it an aged and burnished brass look?


----------



## Mayhem

hmm dont know ill give it a go tomorrow and let you know.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronokairo*
> 
> hi mayhem.
> i purchased the pastel green, blue dye and uv yellow/green dye.
> i already finish 2 bottles of uv yellow/green dye and did not went to neon green. (did not use blue)
> any suggestions to make neon green? i dont want to put uv lights on my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


What are you going for? If you want it to glow, you have to use UV lights as that is what causes the reaction that makes it glow. If you just want a bright green, the pastel green with extra green dye should be good.

The blue dye will darken the shade of green.

If you post an example of what you want, it's easier for us to help. When you say neon, I think UV laser green







.. Which for that I'd do x1 clear with laser green dye and load up the uv


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> The Aurora Gold by itself is a bit... pale in color. What would you recommend mixing it with to get a deeper, richer color?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mix it with black.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Let's say I mixed Aurora Gold and Oil Black together and tossed in a drop or two of orange... Would that give it an aged and burnished brass look?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> hmm dont know ill give it a go tomorrow and let you know.


Hi Mick,

I'm interested as well with seeing the results. I'm starting another build with a mini ITX board, the ASUS Z97I-PLUS with beautiful gold
accents.
Watercooling gear in also in route!

The loop will be Aurora friendly. Two 240's, two waterblocks and a tube res/punp. PPCs was out of the Hydra Gold concentrate but think it would look amazing if it didn't suffer from the problems that I've read about.

Then I pop in here to ask you directly about the current quality just after watching the old youtube video where it didnt look so well under certian lighting conditions...

...and BAM.... you just happened to be working with @TheMadProfessor on the same coolant!









Anyway...
I'll be more than willing to test some out for you in 2~3 weeks from now when my new rig is ready for it.


----------



## Mayhem

Ill have to put it off today, walked into some massive orders to fulfill this morning. As soon as i can get around to it ill do a sample and see how i can help you all out.

Mick


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Hey no problem. Business comes first, right?


----------



## chronokairo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> What are you going for? If you want it to glow, you have to use UV lights as that is what causes the reaction that makes it glow. If you just want a bright green, the pastel green with extra green dye should be good.
> 
> The blue dye will darken the shade of green.
> 
> If you post an example of what you want, it's easier for us to help. When you say neon, I think UV laser green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. Which for that I'd do x1 clear with laser green dye and load up the uv


thanks for the reply.. i just want to to be bright green. pastel green is a bit dull for me. i just want to be something like this




thanks guys.


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronokairo*
> 
> thanks for the reply.. i just want to to be bright green. pastel green is a bit dull for me. i just want to be something like this
> 
> 
> 
> thanks guys.


What's the Powerade flavor?


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ill have to put it off today, walked into some massive orders to fulfill this morning. As soon as i can get around to it ill do a sample and see how i can help you all out.
> 
> Mick


No worries and no hurries here. Glad to hear business is good


----------



## guitarhero23

Has anyone ever put food coloring into pastel? I'm talking like 1-2 drops of blue in a 1.5 liter mixture. Would that stain literally everything? I want to make pastel blue berry a little darker but already have to buy 2 things of pastel blue berry to fill the loop which will likely be just over the 1 liter it gets in one







so now I'm already at $40+ just for the color of coolant in my build. Wouldn't wanna spend much to make it darker.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Has anyone ever put food coloring into pastel? I'm talking like 1-2 drops of blue in a 1.5 liter mixture. Would that stain literally everything? I want to make pastel blue berry a little darker but already have to buy 2 things of pastel blue berry to fill the loop which will likely be just over the 1 liter it gets in one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so now I'm already at $40+ just for the color of coolant in my build. Wouldn't wanna spend much to make it darker.


considering the overall cost of everything you may just be better off dropping the $9 for a bottle of blue dye. It took me about half the bottle mixed with 2 liters of the pastel to get this color.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> considering the overall cost of everything you may just be better off dropping the $9 for a bottle of blue dye. It took me about half the bottle mixed with 2 liters of the pastel to get this color.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yea might as well I guess, That's more of the shade I'm going for anyway. Want it to more closely match the sleeving and acrylic sheets I have.


----------



## emsj86

. White led lights help make it look darker. Plus I added 3 drops of dark blue mayhem dye to get this color


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> . White led lights help make it look darker. Plus I added 3 drops of dark blue mayhem dye to get this color


Interesting, because this one is darker than I need and at only 3 drops, but the guy above needed a ton. Hmmm. I will be putting white LEDS in my build


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Interesting, because this one is darker than I need and at only 3 drops, but the guy above needed a ton. Hmmm. I will be putting white LEDS in my build


He had the dark blue dye, from what i can tell they dont make it anymore. The only place i could even find it listed was frozen but even there it was listed as out of stock.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> He had the dark blue dye, from what i can tell they dont make it anymore. The only place i could even find it listed was frozen but even there it was listed as out of stock.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> considering the overall cost of everything you may just be better off dropping the $9 for a bottle of blue dye. It took me about half the bottle mixed with 2 liters of the pastel to get this color.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea might as well I guess, That's more of the shade I'm going for anyway. Want it to more closely match the sleeving and acrylic sheets I have.
Click to expand...

Your post/quest reminds me of joejoe69's Neptune 2.0 but iirc he just used Mayhems Blue Berry straight up to get a perfect match with his acrylic and sleeve.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1463505/finished-neptune-2-0-reverse-polarity-nzxt-switch-810-reverse-atx-dwood-pedestal-build/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joejoe69*
> 
> [snip]
> 
> [snip]


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Your post/quest reminds me of joejoe69's Neptune 2.0 but iirc he just used Mayhems Blue Berry straight up to get a perfect match with his acrylic and sleeve.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1463505/finished-neptune-2-0-reverse-polarity-nzxt-switch-810-reverse-atx-dwood-pedestal-build/


thanks for this. In his pictures it looks much darker. These damn people and their lighting and retouching tricks!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

You should watch joejoe69's 'completion' build video. Seriously doubt he's using any retouching tricks with that:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7bkSmreYtY&feature=player_detailpage#t=67


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mayhems Pastel finally made it into the R.C70


----------



## guitarhero23

The yellow tube in that 2nd picture looks like a rendered pic (Just the yellow tube part) haha. Threw me off


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Mayhems Pastel finally made it into the R.C70


Are you from the capital wasteland? Because that's some Fallout 3 level tech there.

-Z


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Looks like the rad is covered in cobwebs and some of them hit the fins.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Are you from the capital wasteland? Because that's some Fallout 3 level tech there.
> 
> -Z


Lol, I instantly thought the same thing....thought it was Fallout 3 themed


----------



## chronokairo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> What's the Powerade flavor?


haha... dun no bro,.. i just saw this pic here in this forum.
so guys, anyone knows how to achieve this color?

using pastel green, consume 2 bottle of uv yellow green dye and stil havent achieve that color.

thanks


----------



## Fyrwulf

I assume red+yellow+black+aurora gold booster would produce a pretty sick copper color, but in what proportions would it I need to mix? Unless the liquid metal line you're working on will have a copper color?


----------



## Bertovzki

Im about to order some rigid acrylic tube , i have been using EK HD 10/12 , can someone please tell me is the E22 just as good ? no difference ? , as accurate ID , OD measurements ? Im using Bitspower C47 multi link only

I want to get plenty of tube in my next order , but i see stock at PPC's has 1 x EK HD 10/12 , i want about 5 metres , so E22 really only option , im fairly sure from what i can Google up , that they are the about the same so about to pull trigger.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> Im about to order some rigid acrylic tube , i have been using EK HD 10/12 , can someone please tell me is the E22 just as good ? no difference ? , as accurate ID , OD measurements ? Im using Bitspower C47 multi link only
> 
> I want to get plenty of tube in my next order , but i see stock at PPC's has 1 x EK HD 10/12 , i want about 5 metres , so E22 really only option , im fairly sure from what i can Google up , that they are the about the same so about to pull trigger.


E22 is great acrylic tube and is perhaps the most accurate id/od hard line I've used.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> E22 is great acrylic tube and is perhaps the most accurate id/od hard line I've used.


Great thanks , i order now


----------



## d3viliz3d

Hey guys!
I just purchase a concentrate Aurora 2 Silver bottle. I should receive it today... I've been looking for some info online but the wiki page it's not available. Can anyone enlighten me? In the specific, I would need to know:
- Correct preparation method: how much concentrate for how much water?
- For how long can I leave it in my loop?
- Besides de-ionized water, can I mix it to distilled water as well?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Are you from the capital wasteland? Because that's some Fallout 3 level tech there.
> 
> -Z


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Lol, I instantly thought the same thing....thought it was Fallout 3 themed


Lol, thanks didn't even think of FO3 when I was putting it all together, if I could make a pipboy 3000 fan/pump controller it could be


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol, thanks didn't even think of FO3 when I was putting it all together, if I could make a pipboy 3000 fan/pump controller it could be


Man, that'd be sweet!


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Mayhems Pastel finally made it into the R.C70


\

What temp sensor on the front is that? I was looking at some xspc displays like that with a temp stop for my next build just for water temp purposes


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> I assume red+yellow+black+aurora gold booster would produce a pretty sick copper color, but in what proportions would it I need to mix? Unless the liquid metal line you're working on will have a copper color?


I think your idea is quite similar to mine, and Mayhem's gonna do a test mix to see how it turned out.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> \
> 
> What temp sensor on the front is that? I was looking at some xspc displays like that with a temp stop for my next build just for water temp purposes


It was a phobya dual gauge panel but the black and gray is an xspc gauge with water temp sensor


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> I think your idea is quite similar to mine, and Mayhem's gonna do a test mix to see how it turned out.


Yeah, kinda. I think, if you're willing to fall back on the original Aurora line, you can use Hydra Gold as your base and add in a 75/25 mix of Namron Yellow and Orilla Orange until you get to brass, then add in a few drops at a time of Pastel Pure Black until you get the burnished look.

On the other hand, I think what I need to do is start with Orilla Orange and add in blue dye a drop at a time (imparting a brown tinge) until I get to a copper color, then bling it out with the gold booster.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> I think your idea is quite similar to mine, and Mayhem's gonna do a test mix to see how it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, kinda. I think, if you're willing to fall back on the original Aurora line, you can use Hydra Gold as your base and add in a 75/25 mix of Namron Yellow and Orilla Orange until you get to brass, then add in a few drops at a time of Pastel Pure Black until you get the burnished look.
> 
> On the other hand, I think what I need to do is start with Orilla Orange and add in blue dye a drop at a time (imparting a brown tinge) until I get to a copper color, then bling it out with the gold booster.
Click to expand...

Of course, whether I go for a burnished brass or a copper look really all depends on what fittings I decide on.

If I go for the Bronze Age fittings, then the burnished brass would be the way to go.

However, if I go with the True Brass fittings (tarnishing them in the meantime), then copper would be the better choice for the sake of contrast.

Now here's a thought... more aesthetically related than color related. Inside the reservoir place a frosted acrylic tube, within which would be placed two strips of amber LEDs back to back. The light comes on and adds an otherworldly glow to the fluid, which will be given a nice effect due to the metallic suspension of the gold... Hmm... that could work...


----------



## Fyrwulf

It should. Certainly works in those cold cathode reservoirs.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Of course, whether I go for a burnished brass or a copper look really all depends on what fittings I decide on.
> 
> If I go for the Bronze Age fittings, then the burnished brass would be the way to go.
> 
> However, if I go with the True Brass fittings (tarnishing them in the meantime), then copper would be the better choice for the sake of contrast.
> 
> Now here's a thought... more aesthetically related than color related. Inside the reservoir place a frosted acrylic tube, within which would be placed two strips of amber LEDs back to back. The light comes on and adds an otherworldly glow to the fluid, which will be given a nice effect due to the metallic suspension of the gold... Hmm... that could work...


If you use x1 as a base, it might make a pretty cool effect. I don't think the light would come through pastel enough to be that noticeable


----------



## guitarhero23

Mayhems, if I add a couples drops of ocean blue to pastel blue berry will I get a darker shade of blue? Or something ugly?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Mayhems, if I add a couples drops of ocean blue to pastel blue berry will I get a darker shade of blue? Or something ugly?


You can and it should darken it.


----------



## MrGrievous

After using part 1 of the Blitz Pro kit on my radiators and then rinsing them out 2 times with distilled is there a time period I should be awrae of that I need to run part 2 asap or canI hold off on that and wait for the fittings I forgot to add to my original cart


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

What is an ideal ph range for use with mayhems coolants and how do you achieve it?

What, if anything, could or should be done to correct the ph of purified water (distilled or deionized) to a more neutral 7.0 from the more typical ~6.0 that it usually is?

Would it be advisable to adjust it using a drop or two of ammonia or 1/4 tsp of baking soda at a time and retest until you reach a more neutral ph?


----------



## bigporl

Hi.
Recently started building my custom loop almost finished now. I have just purchased the blitz pro kit, i know i have to clean my rads with part 1 but as the rest of the loop is new is it recomended to still use part 2 or is that just for used loops such as ones with die stains.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Hi.
> Recently started building my custom loop almost finished now. I have just purchased the blitz pro kit, i know i have to clean my rads with part 1 but as the rest of the loop is new is it recomended to still use part 2 or is that just for used loops such as ones with die stains.


Yep. Part 1 in rads only and part 2 in full system.

Part 2 is not just a cleaner, but also has a powerful surfactant which will help nano fluids especially. It'll get any particles that fell into the loop when you were putting it together, out. It also will make sure that noting in the loop will throw off the pH of the fluid


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What is an ideal ph range for use with mayhems coolants and how do you achieve it?
> 
> What, if anything, could or should be done to correct the ph of purified water (distilled or deionized) to a more neutral 7.0 from the more typical ~6.0 that it usually is?
> 
> Would it be advisable to adjust it using a drop or two of ammonia or 1/4 tsp of baking soda at a time and retest until you reach a more neutral ph?


The pH needs to be 6.8-7.2 if I remember correctly.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What is an ideal ph range for use with mayhems coolants and how do you achieve it?
> 
> What, if anything, could or should be done to correct the ph of purified water (distilled or deionized) to a more neutral 7.0 from the more typical ~6.0 that it usually is?
> 
> Would it be advisable to adjust it using a drop or two of ammonia or 1/4 tsp of baking soda at a time and retest until you reach a more neutral ph?


Purified is different from DI/RO water.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What is an ideal ph range for use with mayhems coolants and how do you achieve it?
> 
> What, if anything, could or should be done to correct the ph of purified water (distilled or deionized) to a more neutral 7.0 from the more typical ~6.0 that it usually is?
> 
> Would it be advisable to adjust it using a drop or two of ammonia or 1/4 tsp of baking soda at a time and retest until you reach a more neutral ph?
> 
> 
> 
> Purified is different from DI/RO water.
Click to expand...

I was referring to either distilled or deionized water, both of which are methods for purifying water.

Distilled is all that's available where I live and no matter what brand I buy it tests slightly acidic which is reportedly normal. For example, the EPA writes "The pH of distilled water is between 5.6 and 7."

Is distilled with a ph of ~6 to as low as 5.6 acceptable? If not, what if anything can be done about it?

FWIW I'm testing the PH of my water with both the PH tester that comes with the Blitz kit and a Hanna HI98128 both of which I keep with the electrode hydrated in a potassium chloride storage solution and calibrate prior to every use with PH4 and PH7 buffer solutions.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I was referring to either distilled or deionized water, both of which are methods for purifying water.


Well, there are purity levels to di/ro water, you want level 3. Also, there's no way real di/ro water of any purity is that far off from neutral.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

There is way because I'm seeing it with every brand of distilled. There's also ample evidence you can see by doing a simple google search from LOTS of other people besides me who likewise have noticed distilled with ph levels always slightly acidic to as much as 6 and below.

edit: I'm aware that exposure to air will make purified water (distilled or deionized or whatever process) turn slightly acidic and drop below 6.0 anyway because it will absorb CO2, but I'm finding it in bottles just opened only for a matter of seconds before testing. After discussing this via pm with another member yesterday who noticed similar I've tested bottles of distilled from my grocer, dollar general, and walmart today. They all test around 6.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There is way because I'm seeing it with every brand of distilled. There's also ample evidence you can see by doing a simple google search from LOTS of other people besides me who likewise have noticed distilled with ph levels always slightly acidic to as much as 6 and below.


Distilled means the water has been boiled and allowed to recollect as vapor in a different container. The water needn't have been run through RO or DI filters first. My guess is that whoever your water provider is does not do anything more complex than distill municipal water.

Your best source for honest DI/RO water is the pharmacy by the prescription counter. You can ph correct water, but the minerals to do so are going to be more expensive than medically pure DI/RO.


----------



## timepart

Ordered some blueberry pastel pre mix (didnt have concentrate) from ppc! Hope the new rig doesnt need to get taken apart and it can look awesome for years to come! Little worried on the acid content thought when I flush and clean everything.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Ordered some blueberry pastel pre mix (didnt have concentrate) from ppc! Hope the new rig doesnt need to get taken apart and it can look awesome for years to come! Little worried on the acid content thought when I flush and clean everything.


Ordered the same yesterday. No concentrate in stock!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I was referring to either distilled or deionized water, both of which are methods for purifying water.
> 
> Distilled is all that's available where I live and no matter what brand I buy it tests slightly acidic which is reportedly normal. For example, the EPA writes "The pH of distilled water is between 5.6 and 7."
> 
> Is distilled with a ph of ~6 to as low as 5.6 acceptable? If not, what if anything can be done about it?
> 
> FWIW I'm testing the PH of my water with both the PH tester that comes with the Blitz kit and a Hanna HI98128 both of which I keep with the electrode hydrated in a potassium chloride storage solution and calibrate prior to every use with PH4 and PH7 buffer solutions.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There is way because I'm seeing it with every brand of distilled. There's also ample evidence you can see by doing a simple google search from LOTS of other people besides me who likewise have noticed distilled with ph levels always slightly acidic to as much as 6 and below.
> 
> edit: I'm aware that exposure to air will make purified water (distilled or deionized or whatever process) turn slightly acidic and drop below 6.0 anyway because it will absorb CO2, but I'm finding it in bottles just opened only for a matter of seconds before testing. After discussing this via pm with another member yesterday who noticed similar I've tested bottles of distilled from my grocer, dollar general, and walmart today. They all test around 6.


If the water has been deionized, then it won't have a pH value, and the test strips will show you garbage data due to lack of sufficient hydrogen ions to test. Water in of itself should be around 6.3pH. If you're showing pH as low as 4 it's either deficient in hydrogen ions and thus giving you garbage data, or it's some crap quality distilled, as it probably has a ton of carbonic acid in it. Carbon acid generally doesn't like to exist in atmospheric conditions, and will evap out of the coolant eventually, meaning you're getting less water than you're paying for.

If you're using a coolant they should balance the pH themselves. I wouldn't add any contaminants to it.

-Z


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If the water has been deionized, then it won't have a pH value, and the test strips will show you garbage data due to lack of sufficient hydrogen ions to test. Water in of itself should be around 6.3pH. If you're showing pH as low as 4 it's either deficient in hydrogen ions and thus giving you garbage data, or it's some crap quality distilled, as it probably has a ton of carbonic acid in it. Carbon acid generally doesn't like to exist in atmospheric conditions, and will evap out of the coolant eventually, meaning you're getting less water than you're paying for.
> 
> If you're using a coolant they should balance the pH themselves. I wouldn't add any contaminants to it.
> 
> -Z


I've not seen any just-opened distilled with a "pH as low as 4", but a ph of 6.2 to 6.4 seems most common so far. I just went to the only pharmacy we have in town, as was suggested above, and was told they don't carry distilled water. It's a small-town pharmacy that doesn't carry a lot of anything so didn't surprise me. They looked at me funny and asked why I needed distilled? I didn't care to explain. They said for customers who need it for their C-PAP machines (?), humidifiers, and the like, they typically suggest they just pick it up at the grocery store.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If the water has been deionized, then it won't have a pH value, and the test strips will show you garbage data due to lack of sufficient hydrogen ions to test. Water in of itself should be around 6.3pH. If you're showing pH as low as 4 it's either deficient in hydrogen ions and thus giving you garbage data, or it's some crap quality distilled, as it probably has a ton of carbonic acid in it. Carbon acid generally doesn't like to exist in atmospheric conditions, and will evap out of the coolant eventually, meaning you're getting less water than you're paying for.
> 
> If you're using a coolant they should balance the pH themselves. I wouldn't add any contaminants to it.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> I've not seen any just-opened distilled with a "pH as low as 4", but a ph of 6.2 to 6.4 seems most common so far. I just went to the only pharmacy we have in town, as was suggested above, and was told they don't carry distilled water. It's a small-town pharmacy that doesn't carry a lot of anything so didn't surprise me. They looked at me funny and asked why I needed distilled? I didn't care to explain. They said for customers who need it for their C-PAP machines (?), humidifiers, and the like, they typically suggest they just pick it up at the grocery store.
Click to expand...

yeah that sounds about normal. The coolants should be the appropriate pH after they're mixed. You don't really need to be super careful about pH when using quality coolants, so long as there's no acid or super alkaline stuff in the loop the pH of the coolant should be stable.

-Z


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've not seen any just-opened distilled with a "pH as low as 4", but a ph of 6.2 to 6.4 seems most common so far. I just went to the only pharmacy we have in town, as was suggested above, and was told they don't carry distilled water. It's a small-town pharmacy that doesn't carry a lot of anything so didn't surprise me. They looked at me funny and asked why I needed distilled? I didn't care to explain. They said for customers who need it for their C-PAP machines (?), humidifiers, and the like, they typically suggest they just pick it up at the grocery store.


Ah, I didn't realize you were in a small town. Walmart, if you have one of those, supplies RO/DI water in the store brand gallon jugs with green caps. Or, you could support Mayhems and buy this: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/5-ltr-ultra-pure-h20.html


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Ah, I didn't realize you were in a small town. Walmart, if you have one of those, supplies RO/DI water in the store brand gallon jugs with green caps. Or, you could support Mayhems and buy this: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/5-ltr-ultra-pure-h20.html


Lel, Mayhems ultrapure is definitely interesting. On one hand, Mayhems himself states normal proper quality distilled/deionized water is fine, on the other hand there's this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Well things are progressing we've upgraded the new water making system even further.
> 
> New readings as of today // 7/13/13
> 
> PPM 0.00 to 0.02 (6 out of 10 test were unreadable due to them being so low our equipment could not read it)
> EC 0.01 to 0.02 (6 out of 10 test were unreadable due to them being so low our equipment could not read it)
> Ph [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]
> ORP [email protected]
> Production System 1 @ 50 Ltrs Per Hour . System 2 @ 250 Ltrs Per Hour


Talk about ultrapure









Long story short, if you have good distilled use it. If you live in an area where quality distilled isn't available, ultrapures are always available online but since they're typically much more expensive, take a while to ship, and cost $$ to ship it's preferable to use locally sourced quality distilled.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh we kind of go a little overboard on making it how ever dependent on how its stored can change the PPM / PH. Always store water at around 25c in a dark place were UV C cannot get to it.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh we kind of go a little overboard on making it how ever dependent on how its stored can change the PPM / PH. Always store water at around 25c in a dark place were UV C cannot get to it.


Would you be willing to do a test for me? Does adding blue or purple dye to Orillia Orange produce a copper color and if so how many drops are required?

Also, general product questions. Are you going to be expanding the Aurora 2 line to cover all the old colors and is the liquid metal test going to turn into a product line?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Would you be willing to do a test for me? Does adding blue or purple dye to Orillia Orange produce a copper color and if so how many drops are required?
> 
> Also, general product questions. Are you going to be expanding the Aurora 2 line to cover all the old colors and is the liquid metal test going to turn into a product line?


I will see if I have enough materials to try to run that test. I don't think I have any orange left tho, so it may be tough.

Even if they do not expand the stock colors with Aurora2, you should be able to accomplish any color by (a) dying one of the stock colors, the white being the one you can control the most or (b) using the Aurora2 Booster with your other fluid to make it have the aurora effect.

I could have missed it, but I have not seen anything on liquid metal in years. I would not expect it to be a product at this point. If you are clever with pastel and aurora booster ratios, you can probably achieve a similar look, however.


----------



## DoktorTerror

in what way can I create an Aurora 2 Orange?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> in what way can I create an Aurora 2 Orange?


You have several Options depending on how you want it to look:
1) Get a2 white and dye orange
2) get x1/xt-1 and dye to orange, add aurora booster
3) get pastel orange, add aurora booster


----------



## Mayhem

Really sorry i have orange on hand atm and wont for about 2 weeks :/. Its all down at the warehouse.

Mick


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> in what way can I create an Aurora 2 Orange?
> 
> 
> 
> You have several Options depending on how you want it to look:
> 1) Get a2 white and dye orange
> 2) get x1/xt-1 and dye to orange, add aurora booster
> 3) get pastel orange, add aurora booster
Click to expand...

Which Booster, Silver or Gold?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> Which Booster, Silver or Gold?


Up to you on which you'd prefer. It will be the color of the particles of the aurora effect.

I'd personally choose silver


----------



## DoktorTerror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DoktorTerror*
> 
> Which Booster, Silver or Gold?
> 
> 
> 
> Up to you on which you'd prefer. It will be the color of the particles of the aurora effect.
> 
> I'd personally choose silver
Click to expand...

I try them both


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Really sorry i have orange on hand atm and wont for about 2 weeks :/. Its all down at the warehouse.
> 
> Mick


Not a big deal. I'm not sure when I will start building my system, but I'll place an order for the necessary stuff if somebody can confirm my theory about orange plus blue.


----------



## titchyyyy

Hey,

I've just purchased the Mayhem Aurora 2 - Red, from what I've seen, people are saying to only use this coolant for 1-2 months as it's used for "display" purposes only and not to keep in your system for long, is this true?

I didn't see no warning about this when I purchased it and I'm not a watercooling guru.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Also, general product questions. Are you going to be expanding the Aurora 2 line to cover all the old colors and is the liquid metal test going to turn into a product line?


Aurora likely wont see any expanded colours, it's simply impractical. You can make nearly any colour with aurora Supernova, or aurora gold, simply by adding dye.

Liquid metal will likely never see the market, it's absurdly expensive. You should be able to make something similar. Mix up grey with pastel and add aurora booster.

Now Cyphon with the weather (how to make grey.)

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titchyyyy*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> I've just purchased the Mayhem Aurora 2 - Red, from what I've seen, people are saying to only use this coolant for 1-2 months as it's used for "display" purposes only and not to keep in your system for long, is this true?
> 
> I didn't see no warning about this when I purchased it and I'm not a watercooling guru.


Aurora can last anywhere from a day to a year, it depends on the hardware you have in your loop, mostly the rads.

Please post a list of all liquid cooling components in the loop (brand and model) and we can tell ya if it's good for aurora, or what you can modify or swap out to make it last longer.

-Z


----------



## d3viliz3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Aurora can last anywhere from a day to a year, it depends on the hardware you have in your loop, mostly the rads.
> 
> Please post a list of all liquid cooling components in the loop (brand and model) and we can tell ya if it's good for aurora, or what you can modify or swap out to make it last longer.
> 
> -Z


If you don't mind I'll jump into your question with my list too, since I'm interested in this as well









Pump: Swiftech MCP35X
Res: FrozenQ Fusion 250ml
Rad: XSPC 360mm
CPU block: Koolance CPU370
GPU block: EKWB FC580
Tubing: Primochill Advanced LRT
Fittings: Bitpower fittings (straight or 45° maximum)

Thanks in advance!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3viliz3d*
> 
> If you don't mind I'll jump into your question with my list too, since I'm interested in this as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump: Swiftech MCP35X
> Res: FrozenQ Fusion 250ml
> Rad: XSPC 360mm
> CPU block: Koolance CPU370
> GPU block: EKWB FC580
> Tubing: Primochill Advanced LRT
> Fittings: Bitpower fittings (straight or 45° maximum)
> 
> Thanks in advance!


What radiator specifically? Aurora functions best with single row radiators. Assuming you have a single row rad, if you rip out the injection plate on your CPU it will most likely last quite a while.

-Z


----------



## d3viliz3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> What radiator specifically? Aurora functions best with single row radiators. Assuming you have a single row rad, if you rip out the injection plate on your CPU it will most likely last quite a while.
> 
> -Z


Pardon, it's a XSPC RX360 rev 2.

I've heard about the plate removal but I'm not sure about how to proceed, or if it will have some side effects.
Can you provide me with some details?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3viliz3d*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> What radiator specifically? Aurora functions best with single row radiators. Assuming you have a single row rad, if you rip out the injection plate on your CPU it will most likely last quite a while.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Pardon, it's a XSPC RX360 rev 2.
> 
> I've heard about the plate removal but I'm not sure about how to proceed, or if it will have some side effects.
> Can you provide me with some details?
Click to expand...

RX line is dual row. If you want to go the extra mile you could replace it with a HW Labs GTS, or an ST30, but assuming you only have that one radiator you /should/ be fine. As to the injection plate: Injection plates are used to focus flow over the CPU core, thus increasing the waterblocks efficiency. Removing it will increase core temperatures by a couple degrees, but drastically increase the suspension life of Aurora. The particles like to get caught in the cracks and crevices of injection plates.

-Z


----------



## d3viliz3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> RX line is dual row. If you want to go the extra mile you could replace it with a HW Labs GTS, or an ST30, but assuming you only have that one radiator you /should/ be fine. As to the injection plate: Injection plates are used to focus flow over the CPU core, thus increasing the waterblocks efficiency. Removing it will increase core temperatures by a couple degrees, but drastically increase the suspension life of Aurora. The particles like to get caught in the cracks and crevices of injection plates.
> 
> -Z


Got it!
Yeah I don't think I want to spend any more money just to have the Aurora running, but I'll definitely remove the plate. I'm not on a heavy overclock so I can bear a little increase in the temps.
One last thing, do you think I will need to flush in how much? 6 months?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3viliz3d*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> RX line is dual row. If you want to go the extra mile you could replace it with a HW Labs GTS, or an ST30, but assuming you only have that one radiator you /should/ be fine. As to the injection plate: Injection plates are used to focus flow over the CPU core, thus increasing the waterblocks efficiency. Removing it will increase core temperatures by a couple degrees, but drastically increase the suspension life of Aurora. The particles like to get caught in the cracks and crevices of injection plates.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Got it!
> Yeah I don't think I want to spend any more money just to have the Aurora running, but I'll definitely remove the plate. I'm not on a heavy overclock so I can bear a little increase in the temps.
> One last thing, do you think I will need to flush in how much? 6 months?
Click to expand...

Depends: Do you have aurora or Aurora 2? Aurora (one) is based on the X1 coolant, so should last between one and two years before it's surfactants, biocides, etc. start to lose effect. Aurora 2 is it's own formula and lasts about a year before the surfactant begins to break down. The particles falling out of suspension won't decrease performance so you have a couple options.

1: Replace it when you lose the desired aurora effects. Could be a few weeks, could be a few months, could be 2 years.

It's really a crap shoot trying to give an actual estimate. All products on the market are different, and even if they work well with aurora they still work differently with it. Differing designs have different cracks/crevices, areas/corners with different turbulence, etc. People have had it in there for less than an hour, people have had it work for well over a year. That was back before aurora 2 hit the market, and A2 uses smaller particles and a formula that increases the particle's suspension. Best you can do is design your system around it to the best of your abilities, and understand it's not pastel, it's not going to last 3 years. As I said, you system _should_ keep it in suspension for quite some time.

OR

2: Ignore the lost aesthetics and run it until the coolant's surfactants break down, which would be 1 year or 2 years depending on whether you have aurora 2 or just aurora (one)

-Z


----------



## d3viliz3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Depends: Do you have aurora or Aurora 2? Aurora (one) is based on the X1 coolant, so should last between one and two years before it's surfactants, biocides, etc. start to lose effect. Aurora 2 is it's own formula and lasts about a year before the surfactant begins to break down. The particles falling out of suspension won't decrease performance so you have a couple options.
> 
> 1: Replace it when you lose the desired aurora effects. Could be a few weeks, could be a few months, could be 2 years.
> 
> It's really a crap shoot trying to give an actual estimate. All products on the market are different, and even if they work well with aurora they still work differently with it. Differing designs have different cracks/crevices, areas/corners with different turbulence, etc. People have had it in there for less than an hour, people have had it work for well over a year. That was back before aurora 2 hit the market, and A2 uses smaller particles and a formula that increases the particle's suspension. Best you can do is design your system around it to the best of your abilities, and understand it's not pastel, it's not going to last 3 years. As I said, you system _should_ keep it in suspension for quite some time.
> 
> OR
> 
> 2: Ignore the lost aesthetics and run it until the coolant's surfactants break down, which would be 1 year or 2 years depending on whether you have aurora 2 or just aurora (one)
> 
> -Z


Alright. I got Aurora 2, should've mention it.
I will keep it controlled, probably gonna replace it when the aesthetic effect fades since I got the Aurora just for it








My loop is pretty simple, no dead areas from what I can see, I will run it and see how it performs.

Once again, thank you!


----------



## titchyyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Aurora can last anywhere from a day to a year, it depends on the hardware you have in your loop, mostly the rads.
> 
> Please post a list of all liquid cooling components in the loop (brand and model) and we can tell ya if it's good for aurora, or what you can modify or swap out to make it last longer.
> 
> -Z


Thanks for the reply.

Rad: Magicool G2 SLIM 360mm Radiator
CPU Block: XSPC RayStorm
Pump/res: Magicool DCP450
Tubing: XSPC Clear

Budget build - I don't mind if it lasts 6~ months as I clear my system every few months or so, but it wouldn't be any good if it's going to only last 2 months


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titchyyyy*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Rad: Magicool G2 SLIM 360mm Radiator
> CPU Block: XSPC RayStorm
> Pump/res: Magicool DCP450
> Tubing: XSPC Clear
> 
> Budget build - I don't mind if it lasts 6~ months as I clear my system every few months or so, but it wouldn't be any good if it's going to only last 2 months


Regardless of how long you are running your system, i would toss that junk XSPC tubing and get some primochill advance LRT of your choice of color and size. My 2 Cents for that.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> OR
> 
> 2: Ignore the lost aesthetics and run it until the coolant's surfactants break down, which would be 1 year or 2 years depending on whether you have aurora 2 or just aurora (one)
> 
> -Z


So say I try to use Aurora Booster with some x1 uv blue with a little bit of purple dye to darken the blue and the Aurora effect fades into nothing I can leave with no adverse effect in flow or temperature performance?

Will the Aurora Booster change the color of the coolant after it falls out of suspension?

Thank you for your help.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Aurora likely wont see any expanded colours, it's simply impractical. You can make nearly any colour with aurora Supernova, or aurora gold, simply by adding dye.
> 
> Liquid metal will likely never see the market, it's absurdly expensive. You should be able to make something similar. Mix up grey with pastel and add aurora booster.
> 
> *Now Cyphon with the weather (how to make grey.)*
> 
> -Z
> Aurora can last anywhere from a day to a year, it depends on the hardware you have in your loop, mostly the rads.
> 
> Please post a list of all liquid cooling components in the loop (brand and model) and we can tell ya if it's good for aurora, or what you can modify or swap out to make it last longer.
> 
> -Z


With pastel, you do a white base and do roughly 10:1 green to red dye. Keep adding until you get the shade you want


----------



## titchyyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Regardless of how long you are running your system, i would toss that junk XSPC tubing and get some primochill advance LRT of your choice of color and size. My 2 Cents for that.


Is the XSPC tubing really bad? I've been using it for years on a 4.3-4.5ghz overclock (i5) and the temperatures have been fine at least and haven't had an issues? Would the primochill advance LRT tubing provide anything better?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titchyyyy*
> 
> Is the XSPC tubing really bad? I've been using it for years on a 4.3-4.5ghz overclock (i5) and the temperatures have been fine at least and haven't had an issues? Would the primochill advance LRT tubing provide anything better?


The XSPC tubing from my experience and what others have also said, clouds up easily and hardens after a while. The primochill maintains it's flex after months on end of use. It does stiffen a bit but the XSPC tubing is a little worse. Temps should not be effected but I guess the differences are nitpicky. Nitpicky enough for me to use primochill though.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titchyyyy*
> 
> Is the XSPC tubing really bad? I've been using it for years on a 4.3-4.5ghz overclock (i5) and the temperatures have been fine at least and haven't had an issues? Would the primochill advance LRT tubing provide anything better?


I think the XSPC tubing is basically re-branded post-mix soda tubing, which has very low temperature, chemical, and abrasion tolerances. In short, it is NOT suitable for any sort of complex watercooling loop and I would not be trusting it.


----------



## titchyyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> The XSPC tubing from my experience and what others have also said, clouds up easily and hardens after a while. The primochill maintains it's flex after months on end of use. It does stiffen a bit but the XSPC tubing is a little worse. Temps should not be effected but I guess the differences are nitpicky. Nitpicky enough for me to use primochill though.


I see what you mean. The primochill tubing does look better quality overall but for me £6 vs £12 in a "simple" watercooling loop is a big difference for me as I can spend the money on other items, etc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> I think the XSPC tubing is basically re-branded post-mix soda tubing, which has very low temperature, chemical, and abrasion tolerances. In short, it is NOT suitable for any sort of complex watercooling loop and I would not be trusting it.


Well, considering I've used 1.5m of it in a simple loop for many years and it's been very stable, it's not all too bad, it wouldn't be on the market if what you say is true?

Saying that, what is the best branded tubing on the market atm? I'm guessing Primochill but I see Masterkleer, Tygon and Primochill around the same pricing. I may send back the XSPC stuff and get the Primochill version instead.


----------



## titchyyyy

On a different subject, as I'll be sending back the Aurora v2 - what is the best version of Mayhems to buy? I'm wanting red (doesn't have to be UV). Pastel red I assume? Or is the X1 just as good?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titchyyyy*
> 
> I see what you mean. The primochill tubing does look better quality overall but for me £6 vs £12 in a "simple" watercooling loop is a big difference for me as I can spend the money on other items, etc.
> Well, considering I've used 1.5m of it in a simple loop for many years and it's been very stable, it's not all too bad, it wouldn't be on the market if what you say is true?
> 
> Saying that, what is the best branded tubing on the market atm? I'm guessing Primochill but I see Masterkleer, Tygon and Primochill around the same pricing. I may send back the XSPC stuff and get the Primochill version instead.


Please edit your posts instead of double posting.

Primochill Advance LRT is the current "go-to" tubing so to speak. Mayhems is working on tubing but not yet available. I would advise the X1 coolant.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titchyyyy*
> 
> Is the XSPC tubing really bad? I've been using it for years on a 4.3-4.5ghz overclock (i5) and the temperatures have been fine at least and haven't had an issues? Would the primochill advance LRT tubing provide anything better?


I have some that have been in use for almost 2 years straight now and it still looks fine. A lot of people have had issues with it though.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I have some that have been in use for almost 2 years straight now and it still looks fine. A lot of people have had issues with it though.


i was using it for a radiator test for a month and it clouded like crazy. Pretty much put me off of the product...


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titchyyyy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Aurora can last anywhere from a day to a year, it depends on the hardware you have in your loop, mostly the rads.
> 
> Please post a list of all liquid cooling components in the loop (brand and model) and we can tell ya if it's good for aurora, or what you can modify or swap out to make it last longer.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Rad: Magicool G2 SLIM 360mm Radiator
> CPU Block: XSPC RayStorm
> Pump/res: Magicool DCP450
> Tubing: XSPC Clear
> 
> Budget build - I don't mind if it lasts 6~ months as I clear my system every few months or so, but it wouldn't be any good if it's going to only last 2 months
Click to expand...

I'd rip the injection plate out of the CPU block, but other than that it looks good to go. If the pump is adjustable keep the flowrates upwards.

On an unrelated note I'd use a Blitz cleaning kit on that radiator, Magicools are notorious for having low quality control, which means there's probably solder chunks and flux in there.

-Z


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titchyyyy*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Rad: Magicool G2 SLIM 360mm Radiator
> CPU Block: XSPC RayStorm
> Pump/res: Magicool DCP450
> Tubing: XSPC Clear
> 
> Budget build - I don't mind if it lasts 6~ months as I clear my system every few months or so, but it wouldn't be any good if it's going to only last 2 months


You also want to avoid the 90 degree fittings, 45's are ok


----------



## chronokairo

hi mayhem/guys.
i purchased the pastel green, blue dye and uv yellow/green dye.
i already finish 2 bottles of uv yellow/green dye and did not went to neon green. (did not use blue)
any suggestions to make neon green? i dont want to put uv lights on my case.

i want it to be like this,



currently like this. but in person, its quite pale.


any suggestion for this?

thanks a lot guys.


----------



## Mayhem

Add UV laser yellow / green Dye...


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titchyyyy*
> 
> I see what you mean. The primochill tubing does look better quality overall but for me £6 vs £12 in a "simple" watercooling loop is a big difference for me as I can spend the money on other items, etc.
> Well, considering I've used 1.5m of it in a simple loop for many years and it's been very stable, it's not all too bad, it wouldn't be on the market if what you say is true?


Companies like Mayhems and CaseLab are the exception that proves that rule that most aftermarket PC companies will do whatever and say whatever to make a buck. There's nothing particularly advanced about any WC company's tubing, because the really advanced stuff goes for $10/ft or more.


----------



## marshymellows

Does anyone know what that is?, i knew i had some minor gunk but i did not think i could spread up on top of the card????? or is it corrosion? algee? Please help


----------



## DeviousAddict

looks more like the nickle is flaking off. doesn't look like gunk. but i am looking at it on my pants work monitor so can't say for definat


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Does anyone know what that is?, i knew i had some minor gunk but i did not think i could spread up on top of the card????? or is it corrosion? algee? Please help


Please list the metals you have in your loop besides nickel (or is that chrome?)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Companies like Mayhems and CaseLab are the exception that proves that rule that most aftermarket PC companies will do whatever and say whatever to make a buck. There's nothing particularly advanced about any WC company's tubing, because the really advanced stuff goes for $10/ft or more.


Not necessarily, you can get Tygon lab grade DEHP Plasticizers free tubing for $7/foot. That's hardly cheap, or even competitive compared to the competition ($70 for 10 feet vs $30), but it's 70% of the $10 mark. It's also painful inflexible... Plasticizers exist for a reason, most tubing companies just throw in the cheapest ones. I'm excited to see how Mayhems phthalate free tubing holds up to the competition, or what little competition there is anyways.

-Z


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Please list the metals you have in your loop besides nickel (or is that chrome?)


Two ek pe rads, 770 nickel block and impact full cover block nickel. Acrylic tubing and mayhem pastel green


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Not necessarily, you can get Tygon lab grade DEHP Plasticizers free tubing for $7/foot. That's hardly cheap, or even competitive compared to the competition ($70 for 10 feet vs $30), but it's 70% of the $10 mark. It's also painful inflexible... Plasticizers exist for a reason, most tubing companies just throw in the cheapest ones. I'm excited to see how Mayhems phthalate free tubing holds up to the competition, or what little competition there is anyways.
> 
> -Z


I was talking about PFA tubing which is rated for hazardous materials handling, to include nuclear waste.

EDIT: Does anybody know the particulate size of the Aurora? I have an idea to create a rain effect in a res, but I don't want the particles getting stuck.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Two ek pe rads, 770 nickel block and impact full cover block nickel. Acrylic tubing and mayhem pastel green


You might want to contact EK and ask them if they solder or brase their rads.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> You might want to contact EK and ask them if they solder or brase their rads.


Thanks for taking the time to help me, I got in contact with ek and b negative from the forum and they told me what to do









Really appreciate you taking the time to help me.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Really appreciate you taking the time to help me.


It's not a problem.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Not necessarily, you can get Tygon lab grade DEHP Plasticizers free tubing for $7/foot. That's hardly cheap, or even competitive compared to the competition ($70 for 10 feet vs $30), but it's 70% of the $10 mark. It's also painful inflexible... Plasticizers exist for a reason, most tubing companies just throw in the cheapest ones. I'm excited to see how Mayhems phthalate free tubing holds up to the competition, or what little competition there is anyways.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> I was talking about PFA tubing which is rated for hazardous materials handling, to include nuclear waste.
> 
> EDIT: Does anybody know the particulate size of the Aurora? I have an idea to create a rain effect in a res, but I don't want the particles getting stuck.
Click to expand...

Unless you intend on using lithium manganese oxide as a coolant (do not advise) I don't see why you'd need hazardous waste rated tubing.









40nm is the particle size of aurora IIRC. That's 0.00004mm, or 0.0000015748031496062994inches if you're on the imperial system.









-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Unless you intend on using lithium manganese oxide as a coolant (do not advise) I don't see why you'd need hazardous waste rated tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 40nm is the particle size of aurora IIRC. That's 0.00004mm, or 0.0000015748031496062994inches if you're on the imperial system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


Nothing better than running hazardous materials at home 8)


----------



## Devildog83

Ordered some Aurora Hydra gold today. I was using pastel white and I refilled with distilled water to clean it out and I will drain and refill with distilled 1 or 2 more times. Is there anything I should run through it to get it extremely clean or is just flushing with distilled ok?


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Unless you intend on using lithium manganese oxide as a coolant (do not advise)


PC go boom?
Quote:


> I don't see why you'd need hazardous waste rated tubing.


Eliminates tubing as a problems forever. Also possibly unstainable.
Quote:


> 40nm is the particle size of aurora IIRC. That's 0.00004mm, or 0.0000015748031496062994inches if you're on the imperial system.


Believe it or not, they do teach metric here in America.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Ordered some Aurora Hydra gold today. I was using pastel white and I refilled with distilled water to clean it out and I will drain and refill with distilled 1 or 2 more times. Is there anything I should run through it to get it extremely clean or is just flushing with distilled ok?


Have you blitzed your radiators ever? If not I'd do that. If you have, but you want to give it a really good cleaning Blitz part 2 is a really good cleaner. If you just want to clean out old coolant, a distilled flush is sufficient.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Unless you intend on using lithium manganese oxide as a coolant (do not advise)
> 
> 
> 
> PC go boom?
> 
> *Probably not, lithium magnesium oxide is used in batteries because it's safer and stable than most other lithium ion options.*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see why you'd need hazardous waste rated tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Eliminates tubing as a problems forever. Also possibly unstainable.
> 
> *Flex tubing will stain, period. Tubing dries out, except it doesn't because it absorbs water from the loop. If you have dye in your loop guess what's also being absorbed?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to get the actual absorption rating from MSDS if the tubing manu offers it.*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 40nm is the particle size of aurora IIRC. That's 0.00004mm, or 0.0000015748031496062994inches if you're on the imperial system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Believe it or not, they do teach metric here in America.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I'm from the U.S. mate, but most people still don't know the metric system even though it's been taught for well over a decade.*
Click to expand...


----------



## Mayhem

Were just waiting on the test sample tubing to arrive so we can run extras tests on it. we will have some left over we can send out to testers as well so we can get some feed back.

Mick


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Were just waiting on the test sample tubing to arrive so we can run extras tests on it. we will have some left over we can send out to testers as well so we can get some feed back.
> 
> Mick


Nice. Can you reveal what sort of specs you're using as a baseline? Operating temps, minimum bend radii, etc.


----------



## chronokairo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Add UV laser yellow / green Dye...


thanks mayhem.









i already finished 2 bottles of uv yellow/green dye.

should i get the Emerald Green Dye and another UV Yellow Green Dye?
thanks.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Does anyone know what that is?, i knew i had some minor gunk but i did not think i could spread up on top of the card????? or is it corrosion? algee? Please help


My guess is that its the nano particles slipping between the plexi and the block. My card looked similar when i had aurora running through it, haven't seen it yet with the pastel though.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> My guess is that its the nano particles slipping between the plexi and the block. My card looked similar when i had aurora running through it, haven't seen it yet with the pastel though.


Yea, it kinda sucks :/ but I'll be taking it apart this weekend to clean it


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Yea, it kinda sucks :/ but I'll be taking it apart this weekend to clean it


It definitely looks like the playing is flaking to me. I've had several blocks so it, as the EK playing is quite thin. I've also had several blocks get some water that squeezes itself into the area above the channels where you are seeing it.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It definitely looks like the playing is flaking to me. I've had several blocks so it, as the EK playing is quite thin. I've also had several blocks get some water that squeezes itself into the area above the channels where you are seeing it.


I will be sealing the small gaps with silicone lube(grease). So hopefully I will not have this problem again.


----------



## timepart

I bought 2 liters of Mayhems Pastel Blueberry coolant for my next build. I have 1 Alphacool Monsta 360, 1 Monsta 240, and 1 XT45 360. Will I need more coolant, or could I dilute the two liters a little bit depending on the volume of all of these radiators?


----------



## USMC Modder

I am trying to make a color as close to the picture below as possible with the pastel dye. Would it be better to get the blue berry and add some extra blue dye to it or to go with white and add some blue to it.


----------



## Ramzinho

this looks like Naked BluePerry blue. but if you want to achieve it. white + dye will be better

http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-none-stain-blue-dye-15ml.html


----------



## Fyrwulf

Your best bet is to get the sleeving and color match it off of that, since nobody's monitor is the same.


----------



## USMC Modder

I know I will have to add dye and match it. Just wondering if it's better to start with pastel white or pastel blue berry. Thanks again for the help with this btw.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> I know I will have to add dye and match it. Just wondering if it's better to start with pastel white or pastel blue berry. Thanks again for the help with this btw.


Well, you're better off with pastel white. If you mess up and make it too dark, you're going to have to have white anyway to lighten it. Maybe you can go to Home Depot or the like and ask the paint counter attendant to run the color match software and give you the mixing ratio. They start out with a white base as well, so it should be a faithful reproduction. If it takes buying a pint of paint, it's not a huge expense.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> I am trying to make a color as close to the picture below as possible with the pastel dye. Would it be better to get the blue berry and add some extra blue dye to it or to go with white and add some blue to it.


It's a good match for straight blue berry pastel.

Syncing up from my build log, here is a picture of the colonial blue paracord that I have, next to the RAM in using. Not the best pics as they are from my phone





I find that it looks light in shade in person than in the stock photo. The pastel blue berry is a very close match, though


----------



## krel

I've searched this thread but getting a ton of hits on "killcoil" and couldn't find the answer for my question - I'm cleaning my loop and going to use Mayhems X1 Clear Concentrate. I have a killcoil in there now, should I remove it or leave it in, along with the X1?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> I've searched this thread but getting a ton of hits on "killcoil" and couldn't find the answer for my question - I'm cleaning my loop and going to use Mayhems X1 Clear Concentrate. I have a killcoil in there now, should I remove it or leave it in, along with the X1?


There is no reason to have silver in your loop if you are running a coolant that already contains a much more effective biocide.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> I've searched this thread but getting a ton of hits on "killcoil" and couldn't find the answer for my question - I'm cleaning my loop and going to use Mayhems X1 Clear Concentrate. I have a killcoil in there now, should I remove it or leave it in, along with the X1?


Take it out. All the Mayhems fluids have sufficient biocides to keep the loop clean for the life of the loop.


----------



## electro2u

At the very least the kill coil is redundant when using biocide like that found in mayhems x1 but EK explicitly States not to mix silver and nickel in loop


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> At the very least the kill coil is redundant when using biocide like that found in mayhems x1 but EK explicitly States not to mix silver and nickel in loop


Is this true? I know EK for a while there frowned on the use of silver at least with their nickel plated blocks back when they were having a rash of issues with their old plating processes but I thought they were pretty silver-neutral these days. Koolance, on the other hand, still has a disclaimer on their product pages that says "_Do not use silver with nickel in the same system_".

In any instance, silver is not always a very effective biocide and it is a completely unnecessary dissimilar metal compared to the metals commonly found in loops (copper, brass, nickel, stainless) when you have a coolant that already has a much more effective biocide and provides corrosion protection.


----------



## electro2u

Yes maybe I'm thinking of Koolance.


----------



## krel

Thanks all, much appreciated, answers exactly what I needed to know.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Well, you're better off with pastel white. If you mess up and make it too dark, you're going to have to have white anyway to lighten it. Maybe you can go to Home Depot or the like and ask the paint counter attendant to run the color match software and give you the mixing ratio. They start out with a white base as well, so it should be a faithful reproduction. If it takes buying a pint of paint, it's not a huge expense.


Thanks, I didn't think about going to a paint place and having them do that for me.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It's a good match for straight blue berry pastel.
> 
> Syncing up from my build log, here is a picture of the colonial blue paracord that I have, next to the RAM in using. Not the best pics as they are from my phone
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find that it looks light in shade in person than in the stock photo. The pastel blue berry is a very close match, though


Thanks for taking the time to take those man.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Is this true? I know EK for a while there frowned on the use of silver at least with their nickel plated blocks back when they were having a rash of issues with their old plating processes but I thought they were pretty silver-neutral these days. Koolance, on the other hand, still has a disclaimer on their product pages that says "_Do not use silver with nickel in the same system_".
> 
> In any instance, silver is not always a very effective biocide and it is a completely unnecessary dissimilar metal compared to the metals commonly found in loops (copper, brass, nickel, stainless) when you have a coolant that already has a much more effective biocide and provides corrosion protection.


This ^

I have seen silver cause issues with nickel blocks as well. Not every time, but it for occasionally happen.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to take those man.


NP, hope it helps


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I have seen silver cause issues with nickel blocks as well. Not every time, but it for occasionally happen.


All galvanic corrosion. As a general rule I would suggest all copper everything, to include the rads, since you can't get nickel rads.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I have seen silver cause issues with nickel blocks as well. Not every time, but it for occasionally happen.
> 
> 
> 
> All galvanic corrosion. As a general rule I would suggest all copper everything, to include the rads, since you can't get nickel rads.
Click to expand...

Galvanic corrosion only occurs if two metals are in DIRECT electrical contact, and both in contact with an electrolyte. This is a galvanic cell, pretty much a battery. For instance, the solder in your rads and the copper/brass core are both in direct electrical contact, and they are both in contact with your coolant, which is an electrolyte. This is subject to galvanic corrosion. This is why rad manufacturers use solder with a similar electrode potential to the core.

The issues with silver/nickle is the exchange of ions through an electrolyte. This happens at a much MUCH slower rate, and only when metals are dissimilar. Copper and nickle are very similar from an SEP standpoint. Copper and silver are also very similar on an SEP standpoint. Silver and nickle, on the other hand, are not as similar on an SEP standpoint.

Even though this happens at a very slow rate the nickle plating on waterblocks is barely above a dozen microns thick; a nick with a razerblade could expose the undearlying copper.

This is why waterblock manus have that warranty clause, albeit the plating is so thin and porous it's just as much of an issue with the waterblock than it is with the metals.

*TL;DR Nickle and copper are fine. Copper and silver are fine. Silver and nickle are NOT fine.*

-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Galvanic corrosion only occurs if two metals are in DIRECT electrical contact, and both in contact with an electrolyte. This is a galvanic cell, pretty much a battery. For instance, the solder in your rads and the copper/brass core are both in direct electrical contact, and they are both in contact with your coolant, which is an electrolyte. This is subject to galvanic corrosion. This is why rad manufacturers use solder with a similar electrode potential to the core.
> 
> The issues with silver/nickle is the exchange of ions through an electrolyte. This happens at a much MUCH slower rate, and only when metals are dissimilar. Copper and nickle are very similar from an SEP standpoint. Copper and silver are also very similar on an SEP standpoint. Silver and nickle, on the other hand, are not as similar on an SEP standpoint.
> 
> Even though this happens at a very slow rate the nickle plating on waterblocks is barely above a dozen microns thick; a nick with a razerblade could expose the undearlying copper.
> 
> This is why waterblock manus have that warranty clause, albeit the plating is so thin and porous it's just as much of an issue with the waterblock than it is with the metals.
> 
> *TL;DR Nickle and copper are fine. Copper and silver are fine. Silver and nickle are NOT fine.*
> 
> -Z


Beat me to it, but you said it way better than I would have


----------



## TheMadProfessor

So when removing the injection plate for use with Aurora particulates, I assume that means the metal razor-blade looking thing in this image? Am I wrong?


----------



## VSG

Yeah that's the jet plate, but the insert in the Supremacy Evo may well also trap the nanoparticles. Removing both will end up having a severe effect on performance though!


----------



## TheMadProfessor

So basically I'm stuck with one of three options:

1) Get nanoparticles stuck and ruin the effect.
2) Have good effect, but poor performance.
3) Get a different waterblock.

Wonderful.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> I am trying to make a color as close to the picture below as possible with the pastel dye. Would it be better to get the blue berry and add some extra blue dye to it or to go with white and add some blue to it.


I'm going to possibly be getting colonial blue as my sleeved paracord color from Ensourced and I bought pastel blue berry and OCean blue to add to it. Not sure when you plan to order but if you want to see the results when I get to that stage my build log is fresh and in my sig. I'm hoping it achieves what you want, which is exactly what I want. I had ensourced send me a sample of all blues they have. Could post a picture of the comparison in my log if you would find it helpful.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> So basically I'm stuck with one of three options:
> 
> 1) Get nanoparticles stuck and ruin the effect.
> 2) Have good effect, but poor performance.
> 3) Get a different waterblock.
> 
> Wonderful.


I'd just got with the better performance and hope for the best. or remove the jetplate and hope the insert doesn't effect it much.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> So basically I'm stuck with one of three options:
> 
> 1) Get nanoparticles stuck and ruin the effect.
> 2) Have good effect, but poor performance.
> 3) Get a different waterblock.
> 
> Wonderful.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd just got with the better performance and hope for the best. or remove the jetplate and hope the insert doesn't effect it much.
Click to expand...

The thing is that Aurora effect is an important part of my planned build, so "hoping for the best" doesn't really sit well with me (I can't help it, I'm a perfectionist).

Anyone know how well the Heatkiller 3.0 block works with Aurora?


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I'm going to possibly be getting colonial blue as my sleeved paracord color from Ensourced and I bought pastel blue berry and OCean blue to add to it. Not sure when you plan to order but if you want to see the results when I get to that stage my build log is fresh and in my sig. I'm hoping it achieves what you want, which is exactly what I want. I had ensourced send me a sample of all blues they have. Could post a picture of the comparison in my log if you would find it helpful.


That would be awesome man. My biggest thing is matching the Corsair LPX ram as close as I possibly can. I took a look at your build and also subbed to it. I am going to be doing my loop first and then doing the custom cables after, so I have some time before I need to make a final decision on the sleeve color.


----------



## Ugooo

Hi Michael,

I already tried two times to reach to you via Mayhems Support but I had no response at all yet, so now I'm posting here ... I hope we'll be able to sort it out







.

So, I ordered a Havoc 360 on January this year (the 16th I guess). I received it three to four weeks ago but just unwrapped it for the box ... I checked it entirely to be a 100% sure everything's right and saw that two of its fins are damaged. One frankly damaged and the other one just slightly.

I took a tremendous care of it when I unwrapped and manipulated it (knowing that the fins are very fragile). So I don't think I did the damage ... I'm so scared it could leak, what should we do ?

I assume that as long as the tubes are not damaged it should work just as intended but I wanted to have your opinion ...

By the way : I started a worklog just a week ago on OCN







. I love your products and I've been a close reader of the entire Mayhems Thread there







. I love your coolants and now Rads, thanks for your work







. The havoc looks so good







. Moreover I've heard it's also one of the very best rads. So it's a win win for me







.

have a nice day,

ugo


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ugooo*
> 
> Hi Michael,
> 
> I already tried two time to reach to you via Mayhems Support but I had no response at all yet, so now I'm posting here ... I hope we'll be able to sort it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> So, I ordered a Havoc 360 on January this year (the 16th I guess). I received it three to four weeks ago but just unwrapped it for the box ... I checked it entirely to be a 100% sure everything's right and saw that two of its fins are damaged. One frankly damaged and the other one just slightly.
> 
> I took a tremendous care of it when I unwrapped and manipulated it (knowing that the fins are very fragile). So I don't think I did the damage ... I'm so scared it could leak, what should we do ?
> 
> I assume that as long as the tubes are not damaged it should work just as intended but I wanted to have your opinion ...
> 
> By the way : I started a worklog just a week ago on OCN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I love your products and I've been a close reader of the entire Mayhems Thread there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I love your coolants and now Rads, thanks for your work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The havoc looks so good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Moreover I've heard it's also one of the very best rads. So it's a win win for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> have a nice day,
> 
> ugo


If the fins are the only thing that is damaged, I don't think it will cause an issue, but if the tubes inside it are damaged, then that is a problem. Although you should still have it replaced (if it qualifies) since they are damaged while being brand spankin' new!


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> *snip*
> 
> -Z


No, I knew that. What makes me think it's galvanic corrosion is that back in the 70s and 80s navies started building warships with steel hulls and aluminum superstructures, it seemed like a good idea. Lower weight superstructures means better handling in poor seas and also less displacement. What ended up happening is that sea water spray would abrade the paint and at the join for the hull and superstructure there would be some really fast acting corrosion that would noticed during post-tour refits. Nobody could make any sense of it, because everything was found to check out from a building and maintenance perspective. Eventually, having eliminated every other possibility, the engineers started checking for galvanic corrosion. Oops.

There's no way a water cooling loop is electrically isolated and every metal in the loop is in effect in constant contact because of the water. Distilled water with additives might not be the electrolyte that sea water is, but it'll do.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> So when removing the injection plate for use with Aurora particulates, I assume that means the metal razor-blade looking thing in this image? Am I wrong?


Yup, rip the injection plate.

Can you post a pic of the underside of the top part of the waterblock?
Wondering if the construction will allow you to rip the insert aswell without huge impacts on performance.

-Z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> *snip*
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
> 
> There's no way a water cooling loop is electrically isolated and *every metal in the loop is in effect in constant contact because of the water*. Distilled water with additives might not be the electrolyte that sea water is, but it'll do.
Click to expand...

No, they're in contact with an electrolyte. The coolant is an electrolyte. For galvanic corrosion to take place it needs two criteria. It needs to be in an electrolyte, i.e. the coolant, AND in direct electrical contact. Galvanic corrosion happens when you form a galvanic cell. What's happening in a galvanic cell is you're generating a voltage while the anode corrodes, and the cathode becomes more anodic. A galvanic cell is essentially a battery. Think about a battery, if I put a hot lead on the batteries +, and the ground on something else, I get no power. So if they're both in contact with an electrolyte, i.e. the coolant, and they're not in direct electrical contact, they will produce no voltage, just as a circuit powered by a batteries + terminal and grounded to something other than the battery will produce no voltage.

-Z


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> So when removing the injection plate for use with Aurora particulates, I assume that means the metal razor-blade looking thing in this image? Am I wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, rip the injection plate.
> 
> Can you post a pic of the underside of the top part of the waterblock?
> Wondering if the construction will allow you to rip the insert aswell without huge impacts on performance.
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, no, as I am currently not at home to do so. However, I did find a review of the Supremacy EVO that offers a pretty nice look at the inner workings compared to the EK Supremacy. I've taken the liberty of providing the link to the video fast-forwarded to the appropriate part where he takes the insert out, offering a pretty good look, IMO, of the top without the insert.

https://youtu.be/juuE_yQrdPg?t=4m20s

I found a site that offers pics of a disassembled Heatkiller 3.0 as well. Can you potentially compare and contrast the two in terms of using the Aurora system?

EDIT: The link might help...

http://www.schwarz-muenchen.de/pics/Hk_3.0/


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> So when removing the injection plate for use with Aurora particulates, I assume that means the metal razor-blade looking thing in this image? Am I wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, rip the injection plate.
> 
> Can you post a pic of the underside of the top part of the waterblock?
> Wondering if the construction will allow you to rip the insert aswell without huge impacts on performance.
> 
> -Z
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Unfortunately, no, as I am currently not at home to do so. However, I did find a review of the Supremacy EVO that offers a pretty nice look at the inner workings compared to the EK Supremacy. I've taken the liberty of providing the link to the video fast-forwarded to the appropriate part where he takes the insert out, offering a pretty good look, IMO, of the top without the insert.
> 
> https://youtu.be/juuE_yQrdPg?t=4m20s
> 
> I found a site that offers pics of a disassembled Heatkiller 3.0 as well. Can you potentially compare and contrast the two in terms of using the Aurora system?
> 
> EDIT: The link might help...
> 
> http://www.schwarz-muenchen.de/pics/Hk_3.0/
Click to expand...

The heatkiller would work a LOT better. That insert on the EVO has a LOT of areas for aurora to get stuck, and it looks like if you rip it the lanes will see very little flow. If you can get your hands on the Heatkiller it would work a LOT better for aurora.

-Z


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> So when removing the injection plate for use with Aurora particulates, I assume that means the metal razor-blade looking thing in this image? Am I wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, rip the injection plate.
> 
> Can you post a pic of the underside of the top part of the waterblock?
> Wondering if the construction will allow you to rip the insert aswell without huge impacts on performance.
> 
> -Z
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Unfortunately, no, as I am currently not at home to do so. However, I did find a review of the Supremacy EVO that offers a pretty nice look at the inner workings compared to the EK Supremacy. I've taken the liberty of providing the link to the video fast-forwarded to the appropriate part where he takes the insert out, offering a pretty good look, IMO, of the top without the insert.
> 
> https://youtu.be/juuE_yQrdPg?t=4m20s
> 
> I found a site that offers pics of a disassembled Heatkiller 3.0 as well. Can you potentially compare and contrast the two in terms of using the Aurora system?
> 
> EDIT: The link might help...
> 
> http://www.schwarz-muenchen.de/pics/Hk_3.0/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The heatkiller would work a LOT better. That insert on the EVO has a LOT of areas for aurora to get stuck, and it looks like if you rip it the lanes will see very little flow. If you can get your hands on the Heatkiller it would work a LOT better for aurora.
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

Just so happens that my local Micro Center has one in stock... and now it's mine. Gonna return the EK tomorrow and pick up the Heatkiller.

As an added bonus, the Heatkiller matches the planned build much better than the EK does, and it satisfies my own personal sense of aesthetics (give me metal and wood over plastic any day of the week...).


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far pastel has been running smoothly in my aquacomputer cuplex Kryos Delrin


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> So when removing the injection plate for use with Aurora particulates, I assume that means the metal razor-blade looking thing in this image? Am I wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, rip the injection plate.
> 
> Can you post a pic of the underside of the top part of the waterblock?
> Wondering if the construction will allow you to rip the insert aswell without huge impacts on performance.
> 
> -Z
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Unfortunately, no, as I am currently not at home to do so. However, I did find a review of the Supremacy EVO that offers a pretty nice look at the inner workings compared to the EK Supremacy. I've taken the liberty of providing the link to the video fast-forwarded to the appropriate part where he takes the insert out, offering a pretty good look, IMO, of the top without the insert.
> 
> https://youtu.be/juuE_yQrdPg?t=4m20s
> 
> I found a site that offers pics of a disassembled Heatkiller 3.0 as well. Can you potentially compare and contrast the two in terms of using the Aurora system?
> 
> EDIT: The link might help...
> 
> http://www.schwarz-muenchen.de/pics/Hk_3.0/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The heatkiller would work a LOT better. That insert on the EVO has a LOT of areas for aurora to get stuck, and it looks like if you rip it the lanes will see very little flow. If you can get your hands on the Heatkiller it would work a LOT better for aurora.
> 
> -Z
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just so happens that my local Micro Center has one in stock... and now it's mine. Gonna return the EK tomorrow and pick up the Heatkiller.
> 
> As an added bonus, the Heatkiller matches the planned build much better than the EK does, and it satisfies my own personal sense of aesthetics (give me metal and wood over plastic any day of the week...).
Click to expand...

Be sure to throw up pictures of the build once you get the aurora in.









-Z


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> So when removing the injection plate for use with Aurora particulates, I assume that means the metal razor-blade looking thing in this image? Am I wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, rip the injection plate.
> 
> Can you post a pic of the underside of the top part of the waterblock?
> Wondering if the construction will allow you to rip the insert aswell without huge impacts on performance.
> 
> -Z
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Unfortunately, no, as I am currently not at home to do so. However, I did find a review of the Supremacy EVO that offers a pretty nice look at the inner workings compared to the EK Supremacy. I've taken the liberty of providing the link to the video fast-forwarded to the appropriate part where he takes the insert out, offering a pretty good look, IMO, of the top without the insert.
> 
> https://youtu.be/juuE_yQrdPg?t=4m20s
> 
> I found a site that offers pics of a disassembled Heatkiller 3.0 as well. Can you potentially compare and contrast the two in terms of using the Aurora system?
> 
> EDIT: The link might help...
> 
> http://www.schwarz-muenchen.de/pics/Hk_3.0/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The heatkiller would work a LOT better. That insert on the EVO has a LOT of areas for aurora to get stuck, and it looks like if you rip it the lanes will see very little flow. If you can get your hands on the Heatkiller it would work a LOT better for aurora.
> 
> -Z
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just so happens that my local Micro Center has one in stock... and now it's mine. Gonna return the EK tomorrow and pick up the Heatkiller.
> 
> As an added bonus, the Heatkiller matches the planned build much better than the EK does, and it satisfies my own personal sense of aesthetics (give me metal and wood over plastic any day of the week...).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Be sure to throw up pictures of the build once you get the aurora in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

Oh I plan to. Unfortunately I still have a couple of builds ahead in the queue.

I still want to do a lighted reservoir as well... give that Aurora mix I want to do the appearance of molten metal. Still haven't heard back from Mayhem about that color mix, though...


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ugooo*
> 
> Hi Michael,
> 
> I already tried two times to reach to you via Mayhems Support but I had no response at all yet, so now I'm posting here ... I hope we'll be able to sort it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> So, I ordered a Havoc 360 on January this year (the 16th I guess). I received it three to four weeks ago but just unwrapped it for the box ... I checked it entirely to be a 100% sure everything's right and saw that two of its fins are damaged. One frankly damaged and the other one just slightly.
> 
> I took a tremendous care of it when I unwrapped and manipulated it (knowing that the fins are very fragile). So I don't think I did the damage ... I'm so scared it could leak, what should we do ?
> 
> I assume that as long as the tubes are not damaged it should work just as intended but I wanted to have your opinion ...
> 
> By the way : I started a worklog just a week ago on OCN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I love your products and I've been a close reader of the entire Mayhems Thread there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I love your coolants and now Rads, thanks for your work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The havoc looks so good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Moreover I've heard it's also one of the very best rads. So it's a win win for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> have a nice day,
> 
> ugo


1) please post pics
2) I highly recommend to everyone to air-leak test instead of leak test with water. All you need is a shrader valve and a pressure gauge...they usually have 1/4" npt thread, but Koolance makes an NPT to G 1/4" adapter that works well. Then, it is simply plug the gague into one spot, valve into the other, and use a bike pump to put 8-10psi into it. This is more pressure than your loop will have, so it is stress testing it a bit. Let it sit for awhile and make sure that the air pressure doesn't go down. If it doesn't, you are good to go. If it does, then you can use soapy water and a q-tip around suspect leak areas and they will bubble if there is a leak. This is way safer and way cleaner than putting water in your system and hoping for the best







You can also test sections or individual components if you desire. For example, you can put the valve and gauge directly on the rad and make sure that it is not leaking.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Yup, rip the injection plate.
> 
> Can you post a pic of the underside of the top part of the waterblock?
> Wondering if the construction will allow you to rip the insert aswell without huge impacts on performance.
> 
> -Z
> No, they're in contact with an electrolyte. The coolant is an electrolyte. For galvanic corrosion to take place it needs two criteria. It needs to be in an electrolyte, i.e. the coolant, AND in direct electrical contact. Galvanic corrosion happens when you form a galvanic cell. What's happening in a galvanic cell is you're generating a voltage while the anode corrodes, and the cathode becomes more anodic. A galvanic cell is essentially a battery. Think about a battery, if I put a hot lead on the batteries +, and the ground on something else, I get no power. So if they're both in contact with an electrolyte, i.e. the coolant, and they're not in direct electrical contact, they will produce no voltage, just as a circuit powered by a batteries + terminal and grounded to something other than the battery will produce no voltage.
> 
> -Z


The evo block is pretty much the same as the regular supremacy. You can take a EVO top (with insert, pin, and jet plate) and put it on the old supremacy blocks as well. I do not think your cooling would do too well without the insert.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ugooo*
> 
> Hi Michael,
> 
> I already tried two times to reach to you via Mayhems Support but I had no response at all yet, so now I'm posting here ... I hope we'll be able to sort it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> So, I ordered a Havoc 360 on January this year (the 16th I guess). I received it three to four weeks ago but just unwrapped it for the box ... I checked it entirely to be a 100% sure everything's right and saw that two of its fins are damaged. One frankly damaged and the other one just slightly.
> 
> I took a tremendous care of it when I unwrapped and manipulated it (knowing that the fins are very fragile). So I don't think I did the damage ... I'm so scared it could leak, what should we do ?
> 
> I assume that as long as the tubes are not damaged it should work just as intended but I wanted to have your opinion ...
> 
> By the way : I started a worklog just a week ago on OCN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I love your products and I've been a close reader of the entire Mayhems Thread there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I love your coolants and now Rads, thanks for your work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The havoc looks so good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Moreover I've heard it's also one of the very best rads. So it's a win win for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> have a nice day,
> 
> ugo


Hi there fin bending is normal just pin them back. When i say pin them back just get a pin and move them straight







.

As for you contacting us i have checked my spam mail and there is not a single email to me from your self (as in ref bent fins). whom did you email. Also there is no pms from you either.


----------



## Ugooo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi there fin bending is normal just pin them back. When i say pin them back just get a pin and move them straight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> As for you contacting us i have checked my spam mail and there is not a single email to me from your self (as in ref bent fins). whom did you email. Also there is no pms from you either.


Hello again,

First, thanks for your quick answer.

The dress I mailed was this one : [email protected] (referred to as the Product Support address) + I received an automated message saying that someone will respond shortly.

Here are two photos I took :

https://flic.kr/p/rPbQ8o

https://flic.kr/p/rwJTF1

Thanks again







,

ugo


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ugooo*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> First, thanks for your quick answer.
> 
> The dress I mailed was this one : [email protected] (referred to as the Product Support address) + I received an automated message saying that someone will respond shortly.
> 
> Here are two photos I took :
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/rPbQ8o
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/rwJTF1
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,
> 
> ugo


Doesn't look bad. You should be fine. Like Mayhem's said, you can just bend them back into position.

This type of thing happens a lot during shipping and handling, with pretty much all makes.

I know I end up doing it myself at least 2-3 times per build by being careless and hitting it with my hand, lol


----------



## ZytheEKS

Just a PSA to everyone, remember to leak test with an external PSU jump. Just filled with 3liters of XT-1 clear, and apparently I punctured my rad installing the fans and it spilled EVERYWHERE in the chassis. Might cost you a couple dozen $ in coolant, as it cost me, but that beats a few hundred in hardware. Ripped the radiator out and refilled with some X1 Oil black I had in the closet.

On a completely unrelated note Mayhems Ultrapure tastes amazing, tastiest water I've ever drank. (Had a bit under 50ml after I finished filling and thought why not)

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ugooo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi there fin bending is normal just pin them back. When i say pin them back just get a pin and move them straight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> As for you contacting us i have checked my spam mail and there is not a single email to me from your self (as in ref bent fins). whom did you email. Also there is no pms from you either.
> 
> 
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> First, thanks for your quick answer.
> 
> The dress I mailed was this one : [email protected] (referred to as the Product Support address) + I received an automated message saying that someone will respond shortly.
> 
> Here are two photos I took :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/rPbQ8o
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/rwJTF1
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,
> 
> ugo
Click to expand...

Minor fin damage is fairly typical for radiators. Radiator fins are around 25microns thick, that's 0.025mm thick. All it takes is the fedex guy throwing it at the wrong angle to bend a fin. This also means they're extremely easy to bend back into position. I wouldn't put a second thought into throwing it in your loop. The type of defects that merit an RMA or second guessing installing it are loose fins (i.e. they are physically loose), punctured tubes, that sort of thing.









-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Just a PSA to everyone, remember to leak test with an external PSU jump. Just filled with 3liters of XT-1 clear, and apparently I punctured my rad installing the fans and it spilled EVERYWHERE in the chassis. Might cost you a couple dozen $ in coolant, as it cost me, but that beats a few hundred in hardware. Ripped the radiator out and refilled with some X1 Oil black I had in the closet.
> 
> On a completely unrelated note Mayhems Ultrapure tastes amazing, tastiest water I've ever drank. (Had a bit under 50ml after I finished filling and thought why not)
> 
> -Z
> Minor fin damage is fairly typical for radiators. Radiator fins are around 25microns thick, that's 0.025mm thick. All it takes is the fedex guy throwing it at the wrong angle to bend a fin. This also means they're extremely easy to bend back into position. I wouldn't put a second thought into throwing it in your loop. The type of defects that merit an RMA or second guessing installing it are loose fins (i.e. they are physically loose), punctured tubes, that sort of thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


Still say leak test with air first. Always fill using the backup jumped PSU tho


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ugooo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi there fin bending is normal just pin them back. When i say pin them back just get a pin and move them straight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> As for you contacting us i have checked my spam mail and there is not a single email to me from your self (as in ref bent fins). whom did you email. Also there is no pms from you either.
> 
> 
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> First, thanks for your quick answer.
> 
> The dress I mailed was this one : [email protected] (referred to as the Product Support address) + I received an automated message saying that someone will respond shortly.
> 
> Here are two photos I took :
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/rPbQ8o
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/rwJTF1
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,
> 
> ugo
Click to expand...

we don't have a [email protected] support address ... were did you get that from ? it should be [email protected]


----------



## Ugooo

It was trough your website on this exact page : http://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/support/product-support

Looks like it's not working properly ^^.


----------



## Mayhem

Looks like something has gone wrong then. Ive just tested the page and the email is not coming though :/ ... Ill get our web site guy onto it. thank you for pointing out this mistake we will sort it out, Thank you for pointing out the issue.

Mick


----------



## Gabrielzm

Hi Mick

just got the package from order 1833 we thought was lost after two months







. Since Steve already processed a refund to my card I own you guys money. Will be sending an email to you and Steve authorizing to make the same charge again to my account.

Thank you for all the help

Gabriel


----------



## bigporl

Blitz part 2 been in 21 hours now. Do i really need to do the full 24? I'm like a child and cant wait to see that pastel blueberry going round. New loop if that helps.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Blitz part 2 been in 21 hours now. Do i really need to do the full 24? I'm like a child and cant wait to see that pastel blueberry going round. New loop if that helps.


Nah, Id go ahead and start flushing now, it's gonna take a while.


----------



## bigporl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Nah, Id go ahead and start flushing now, it's gonna take a while.


Sweet. Yeah thats why im chomping at the bit as theres 2 lots of flushing to do with the dionised water then fill back up. Not long now.


----------



## Mayhem

it really up to you how ever i wrote the instruction so that it make sure you get the most from the products. Patience is a virtue


----------



## bigporl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> it really up to you how ever i wrote the instruction so that it make sure you get the most from the products. Patience is a virtue


Best to be safe than sorry i guess. Well got to the end did the two flush then added the magic.






There it is. Its a spot on match for my fans but my cables,ram and PSU have a darker shade to them. I can forgive the ram an psu but its the cables that stick out the most. Expensive option is to colour match the braided cable or as i luckily have some dark blue dye add required amount of drop then paint a set of fan rings darker.


----------



## krel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 1) please post pics
> 2) I highly recommend to everyone to air-leak test instead of leak test with water. All you need is a shrader valve and a pressure gauge...they usually have 1/4" npt thread, but Koolance makes an NPT to G 1/4" adapter that works well. Then, it is simply plug the gague into one spot, valve into the other, and use a bike pump to put 8-10psi into it. This is more pressure than your loop will have, so it is stress testing it a bit. Let it sit for awhile and make sure that the air pressure doesn't go down. If it doesn't, you are good to go. If it does, then you can use soapy water and a q-tip around suspect leak areas and they will bubble if there is a leak. This is way safer and way cleaner than putting water in your system and hoping for the best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also test sections or individual components if you desire. For example, you can put the valve and gauge directly on the rad and make sure that it is not leaking.


This is a killer idea. +rep







I bought the fittings to make a T adapter with gauge and Schrader valve tonight, I'm going to be doing a full tear down this weekend so great timing.

What PSI does the typical loop run? Just a ballpark would be nice to know.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> This is a killer idea. +rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought the fittings to make a T adapter with gauge and Schrader valve tonight, I'm going to be doing a full tear down this weekend so great timing.
> 
> What PSI does the typical loop run? Just a ballpark would be nice to know.


10 psi will be just fine. 10-12.

here we go:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101

everyone should be doing this way. The schrader valve+manometer goes for 12 bucks on amazon and other stores in US.

edit - most rads are rated at 1 bar which is nearly 14.5 psi. At 12 psi you can hear the air leaking and find it quite easily so no need to go any higher than that. Some rads (watercool) are rated at 5 bar while others can be rated at 0.8 bar (some aquacomputer). So, even if you are using a Aquacomputer one 11 psi would be fine.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> This is a killer idea. +rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought the fittings to make a T adapter with gauge and Schrader valve tonight, I'm going to be doing a full tear down this weekend so great timing.
> 
> What PSI does the typical loop run? Just a ballpark would be nice to know.


NP. Everyone should do it this way. Takes the stress and mess out of it. Really good feeling when you fill it you know there will be no issues at all.

I am working on my res fixture and testing it now


I usually do 8-10psi personally. I will put in a little more then release it to the line since I don't have a compressor and regulator and use a simple bike pump.

If you have a pressure loss, simply get a soapy water solution and some q-tips anddab some of the solution around fittings and other suspected leak places.

I found a pretty crazy leak in a GPU block once that would have been terrible if I had filled it with water.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 10 psi will be just fine. 10-12.
> 
> here we go:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101
> 
> everyone should be doing this way. The schrader valve+manometer goes for 12 bucks on amazon and other stores in US.
> 
> edit - most rads are rated at 1 bar which is nearly 14.5 psi. At 12 psi you can hear the air leaking and find it quite easily so no need to go any higher than that. Some rads (watercool) are rated at 5 bar while others can be rated at 0.8 bar (some aquacomputer). So, even if you are using a Aquacomputer one 11 psi would be fine.


This


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Just a PSA to everyone, remember to leak test with an external PSU jump. Just filled with 3liters of XT-1 clear, and apparently I punctured my rad installing the fans and it spilled EVERYWHERE in the chassis. Might cost you a couple dozen $ in coolant, as it cost me, but that beats a few hundred in hardware. Ripped the radiator out and refilled with some X1 Oil black I had in the closet.
> 
> On a completely unrelated note Mayhems Ultrapure tastes amazing, tastiest water I've ever drank. (Had a bit under 50ml after I finished filling and thought why not)
> 
> -Z
> Minor fin damage is fairly typical for radiators. Radiator fins are around 25microns thick, that's 0.025mm thick. All it takes is the fedex guy throwing it at the wrong angle to bend a fin. This also means they're extremely easy to bend back into position. I wouldn't put a second thought into throwing it in your loop. The type of defects that merit an RMA or second guessing installing it are loose fins (i.e. they are physically loose), punctured tubes, that sort of thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Still say leak test with air first. Always fill using the backup jumped PSU tho
Click to expand...

The crazy part is I DID leak test with air first. I don't know if maybe the screw was keeping the puncture airtight, and maybe the surfactant made it slide off, or maybe I bumped it and it pushed the screw away from the puncture, or what.

Someone company out there really should rig a propylene glycol atomizer into a fan, and make a PG vapor leak test machine.

-Z


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *krel*
> 
> This is a killer idea. +rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought the fittings to make a T adapter with gauge and Schrader valve tonight, I'm going to be doing a full tear down this weekend so great timing.
> 
> What PSI does the typical loop run? Just a ballpark would be nice to know.
> 
> 
> 
> NP. Everyone should do it this way. Takes the stress and mess out of it. Really good feeling when you fill it you know there will be no issues at all.
> 
> I am working on my res fixture and testing it now
> 
> 
> I usually do 8-10psi personally. I will put in a little more then release it to the line since I don't have a compressor and regulator and use a simple bike pump.
> 
> If you have a pressure loss, simply get a soapy water solution and some q-tips anddab some of the solution around fittings and other suspected leak places.
> 
> I found a pretty crazy leak in a GPU block once that would have been terrible if I had filled it with water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 10 psi will be just fine. 10-12.
> 
> here we go:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101
> 
> everyone should be doing this way. The schrader valve+manometer goes for 12 bucks on amazon and other stores in US.
> 
> edit - most rads are rated at 1 bar which is nearly 14.5 psi. At 12 psi you can hear the air leaking and find it quite easily so no need to go any higher than that. Some rads (watercool) are rated at 5 bar while others can be rated at 0.8 bar (some aquacomputer). So, even if you are using a Aquacomputer one 11 psi would be fine.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This
Click to expand...

This all day guys . . . .

The ease and cost of building a little widget for air testing, versus the cost of damaged gear, or even just the cost in time to tear down and clean up, just makes it a no brainer.

As above, when you build unique modules or sub-assemblies that integrate into a whole, it's really important to test each module, and if it passes, *then physically handle the module to simulate the effects it could receive from being installed, and then test again*.

This is especially true when you have sub assemblies that preclude being able to get to each connection for testing once assembled.

Knowing that all your sub assemblies have passed rigorous testing makes it wayyyyy easier to troubleshoot a leak once everything is assembled, as you already know where the leak probably isn't.

If you've disassembled waterblocks for cleaning or to polish the acrylic, the value of an air test is enormous, especially when there are metal cover plates with o rings underneath them.

Once you have your widget, if you use it on each stage of your build, you'll have confidence as you work on successive phases, that everything so far is already good to go.

Using my Tropical Frost build as an example, here's the heat exchangers module being tested . . . . If there had been a leak in either side, I might have had to put the whole assembly in a sink full of water to find it because of so many fittings that are virtually unreachable.

Warm side loop test:



Cold side loop test:



Mobo and GPU's assembly tested as a module:



And finally, the completed internal loop tested:



And since this is the Mayhems thread . . . X1 Oil black in the warm loop, and X1 clear in the cold loop:



When you've spent thousands of dollars on a nice rig, and hundreds to build the custom loop, . . . . .

Not spending a few dollars more to make an air test widget is just dumb.

Darlene


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This all day guys . . . .
> 
> The ease and cost of building a little widget for air testing, versus the cost of damaged gear, or even just the cost in time to tear down and clean up, just makes it a no brainer.
> 
> As above, when you build unique modules or sub-assemblies that integrate into a whole, it's really important to test each module, and if it passes, *then physically handle the module to simulate the effects it could receive from being installed, and then test again*.
> 
> This is especially true when you have sub assemblies that preclude being able to get to each connection for testing once assembled.
> 
> Knowing that all your sub assemblies have passed rigorous testing makes it wayyyyy easier to troubleshoot a leak once everything is assembled, as you already know where the leak probably isn't.
> 
> If you've disassembled waterblocks for cleaning or to polish the acrylic, the value of an air test is enormous, especially when there are metal cover plates with o rings underneath them.
> 
> Once you have your widget, if you use it on each stage of your build, you'll have confidence as you work on successive phases, that everything so far is already good to go.
> 
> Using my Tropical Frost build as an example, here's the heat exchangers module being tested . . . . If there had been a leak in either side, I might have had to put the whole assembly in a sink full of water to find it because of so many fittings that are virtually unreachable.
> 
> Warm side loop test:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cold side loop test:
> 
> 
> 
> Mobo and GPU's assembly tested as a module:
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, the completed internal loop tested:
> 
> 
> 
> And since this is the Mayhems thread . . . Oil black in the warm loop, and X1 clear in the cold loop:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you've spent thousands of dollars on a nice rig, and hundreds to build the custom loop, . . . . .
> 
> Not spending a few dollars more to make an air test widget is just dumb.
> 
> Darlene


You're bolded point regarding handling the pieces as you are testing is a good/important one









Also for those interested, here are the part numbers and suppliers I used.

At McMaster-Carr:
1/8" Shrader Valve 1/4" NPT thread: 8063K38
Pressure Guage 1/4" NPT thread: 3846K312

At PPCs:
1/4" NPT to G 1/4" adapter: ADT-G14M-N14F

Then just need a standard bike pump









EDIT: you may want to grab some plumbers tape too to help seal the NPT parts threads


----------



## Mayhem

you do know glycols cause rubber to tighten up (or shrink) ....... Its only buy a fraction but some thing always to consider.


----------



## RpeeKooz

hey guys ive been running aurora 2 red for about a month now..its turned chocolate brown..i ran a lemon juice mix threw my phobya rads 4 times and then a bi carb flush 4 times...the ph was 7 when i added my aurora and this still happens..what have i done wrong this time...thats twice its gone bad within a few months....what can i do now????i need a blitz part 1 but cant find any where in australia...can i run some kind of acid threw it before ???
i need some serious help its costing me a fortune buying new coolant every 3 months
here is a picture of the res with its chocolate brown coolant....


what it looked like 1 month ago

thanks


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> hey guys ive been running aurora 2 red for about a month now..its turned chocolate brown..i ran a lemon juice mix threw my phobya rads 4 times and then a bi carb flush 4 times...the ph was 7 when i added my aurora and this still happens..what have i done wrong this time...thats twice its gone bad within a few months....what can i do now????i need a blitz part 1 but cant find any where in australia...can i run some kind of acid threw it before ???
> i need some serious help its costing me a fortune buying new coolant every 3 months
> here is a picture of the res with its chocolate brown coolant....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what it looked like 1 month ago
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> thanks


You do realize that Aurora is a coolant for pictures or like tech shows like CES, PAX, etc right? Like it'll look cool for a short amount of time then...not so much


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> hey guys ive been running aurora 2 red for about a month now..its turned chocolate brown..i ran a lemon juice mix threw my phobya rads 4 times and then a bi carb flush 4 times...the ph was 7 when i added my aurora and this still happens..what have i done wrong this time...thats twice its gone bad within a few months....what can i do now????i need a blitz part 1 but cant find any where in australia...can i run some kind of acid threw it before ???
> i need some serious help its costing me a fortune buying new coolant every 3 months
> here is a picture of the res with its chocolate brown coolant....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what it looked like 1 month ago
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


Most likely a flux issue if the red is turning brown. Phobya rads are manufactured by Alphacool. Alphacools are known for having... lets say resilient flux. You /should/ be able to source some part 1 from Mayhems website itself. If that doesn't work hydrochloric acid should work. I don't know for sure if part 2 would work all the same with a "homemade" part one, so to speak, so it'd be best to get some clarifications from Mick (mayhems) before doing anything like that.

You can read more about it here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1495977/getting-a-copper-radiator-squeaky-clean-101-with-some-chem-101-knowledge

That thread is also almost a year old so, you know, try to avoid necro resing it and what not.









-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> You do realize that Aurora is a coolant for pictures or like tech shows like CES, PAX, etc right? Like it'll look cool for a short amount of time then...not so much


Yes and no.

The Aurora effect can last up to a year if your loop has been built with aurora in mind. The actual fluid can run for awhile even if the effect died out, though not as cool of course. It actually used to be x1 for the base.

The disclaimer that it is for shows and photo shoots, in my mind, is mainly to set expectations that the effect will die off after some time and isn't permanent.

Regardless of all of that, the color change is due to rad flux/pH problems and really has little to do with the fact that it was Aurora vs x1 vs pastel.


----------



## tipes

Hey guys,
Looking for a bit of advice. first off my spec for you:-
Asus R5E
5960X
16GB Gskill 3200 DDR4
Mayhems 480 Rad
Koolance 450PMPS D5 pump
Koolance tube res with block for PMPS pump

Just wondering how much difference air in the system can make to temps - reason I ask is when testing at 4.4Ghz my temps have risen by about 10-12 degrees
from where they were. I have recently changed to hard-line tubing, but everything else remains the same. Ambient temps about 20 deg.

Could my tim have gone off suddenly(4 months old, when I built the rig) or could my chip have degraded? I don't run 4.4 all the time - usually dial back to 4 for everyday.
I have noticed the flow seems a bit slow for a d5 especially seeing as this one runs at 5700-5800rpm. Could it be a simple airlock, or should I re do the tim? Any other ideas?

Maybe the mayhems rad is more restrictive? used to use an Alphacool ut60 480.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Mark


----------



## Dyaems

@Mayhem any plans of selling thin radiators? Just wondering...


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Looking for a bit of advice. first off my spec for you:-
> Asus R5E
> 5960X
> 16GB Gskill 3200 DDR4
> Mayhems 480 Rad
> Koolance 450PMPS D5 pump
> Koolance tube res with block for PMPS pump
> 
> Just wondering how much difference air in the system can make to temps - reason I ask is when testing at 4.4Ghz my temps have risen by about 10-12 degrees
> from where they were. I have recently changed to hard-line tubing, but everything else remains the same. Ambient temps about 20 deg.
> 
> Could my tim have gone off suddenly(4 months old, when I built the rig) or could my chip have degraded? I don't run 4.4 all the time - usually dial back to 4 for everyday.
> I have noticed the flow seems a bit slow for a d5 especially seeing as this one runs at 5700-5800rpm. Could it be a simple airlock, or should I re do the tim? Any other ideas?
> 
> Maybe the mayhems rad is more restrictive? used to use an Alphacool ut60 480.
> 
> Any advice greatly appreciated.
> 
> Mark


Air bubbles would only decrease the thermal capacity of the loop, which decrease time it takes to reach equilibrium. It would not increase temps during prolonged load. What TIM specifically did you use? I doubt it's gone bad, but it's a possibility. More than likely there's probably and airlock somewhere, in the rad, in the waterblock, in the pump, who knows. Pull it, twist it, bop it.

-Z


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Air bubbles would only decrease the thermal capacity of the loop, which decrease time it takes to reach equilibrium. It would not increase temps during prolonged load. What TIM specifically did you use? I doubt it's gone bad, but it's a possibility. More than likely there's probably and airlock somewhere, in the rad, in the waterblock, in the pump, who knows. Pull it, twist it, bop it.
> 
> -Z


Hi Zytheks,

Thanks for the reply - I use Gelid extreme tim. Could an airlock make the flow slower a than expected? The flow does seem slower to me than a
regular D5 - which is odd as it should be better!!!

Perhaps I should drain it again and re fill - being more careful in stop/starting the spare psu I use when filling. Perhaps I need to fill more slowly to expel air? My bet is that there is somehow air trapped in the pump or rad still, but if there is it is not showing or budging.Perhaps if I drain again I may as well replace the tim anyway.

Any other ideas etc

Mark


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Hi Zytheks,
> 
> Thanks for the reply - I use Gelid extreme tim. Could an airlock make the flow slower a than expected? The flow does seem slower to me than a
> regular D5 - which is odd as it should be better!!!
> 
> Perhaps I should drain it again and re fill - being more careful in stop/starting the spare psu I use when filling. Perhaps I need to fill more slowly to expel air? My bet is that there is somehow air trapped in the pump or rad still, but if there is it is not showing or budging.Perhaps if I drain again I may as well replace the tim anyway.
> 
> Any other ideas etc
> 
> Mark


Gelid extreme is good stuff. It probably didn't go bad.

Air lock can kill your flow. I'd 'Pull it, twist it, bop it' as z said







. See if it clears it out before you drain


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Air bubbles would only decrease the thermal capacity of the loop, which decrease time it takes to reach equilibrium. It would not increase temps during prolonged load. What TIM specifically did you use? I doubt it's gone bad, but it's a possibility. More than likely there's probably and airlock somewhere, in the rad, in the waterblock, in the pump, who knows. Pull it, twist it, bop it.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Zytheks,
> 
> Thanks for the reply - I use Gelid extreme tim. Could an airlock make the flow slower a than expected? The flow does seem slower to me than a
> regular D5 - which is odd as it should be better!!!
> 
> Perhaps I should drain it again and re fill - being more careful in stop/starting the spare psu I use when filling. Perhaps I need to fill more slowly to expel air? My bet is that there is somehow air trapped in the pump or rad still, but if there is it is not showing or budging.Perhaps if I drain again I may as well replace the tim anyway.
> 
> Any other ideas etc
> 
> Mark
Click to expand...

Bubbles in the pump can create an airlock and mess up flow. I would only drain it and refill as a last resort. Usually playing bop it with your chassis is enough to dislodge bubbles. You can also hook your pump up to an external PSU and start/stop it to make it span faster/slower. The change in pressure usually dislodges bubbles. Or if you have a pump controller the same can be achieved without messing around with starting/stopping it.

-Z


----------



## zmn668

Hi. Can anyone think of a scenario that using Pastel would cause a significant drop on my flow meter reading from a Koolance flow meter? I was using XSPC EC6 Blood red and was getting jst over 1 GPM through 5 blocks and 2 rads with a single D5. I drained the system flushing everything thoroughly with distilled. The only change was then to use Pastel red and my flow rate has dropped to approx .6 GPM. I mixed the pastel just as directed and my temps seem fine. Could it be the viscosity is somehow causing the meter to read inaccurately? The meter is the INS-FM17N connected via a ADT-FM03 Frequency Adapter to a Lamptron CW611 controller. Thanks!


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Gelid extreme is good stuff. It probably didn't go bad.
> 
> Air lock can kill your flow. I'd 'Pull it, twist it, bop it' as z said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . See if it clears it out before you drain


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Bubbles in the pump can create an airlock and mess up flow. I would only drain it and refill as a last resort. Usually playing bop it with your chassis is enough to dislodge bubbles. You can also hook your pump up to an external PSU and start/stop it to make it span faster/slower. The change in pressure usually dislodges bubbles. Or if you have a pump controller the same can be achieved without messing around with starting/stopping it.
> 
> -Z


Thanks guys for your valuable input, think I will hook up the spare psu and go for a large bopping session Lol. I am fairly suspicious that there is an airlock in the pump. I really don't want to drain and re fill until last resort. Will report back later.

Mark


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Would it be safe to assume that, if the jet plate were removed, the EK FC980 GPU waterblocks would allow for good flow of Aurora?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmn668*
> 
> Hi. Can anyone think of a scenario that using Pastel would cause a significant drop on my flow meter reading from a Koolance flow meter? I was using XSPC EC6 Blood red and was getting jst over 1 GPM through 5 blocks and 2 rads with a single D5. I drained the system flushing everything thoroughly with distilled. The only change was then to use Pastel red and my flow rate has dropped to approx .6 GPM. I mixed the pastel just as directed and my temps seem fine. Could it be the viscosity is somehow causing the meter to read inaccurately? The meter is the INS-FM17N connected via a ADT-FM03 Frequency Adapter to a Lamptron CW611 controller. Thanks!


I've had pastel lock those sensors up. I still have had plenty of flow and no adverse temperature effects, but get bad to no readings from the sensor


----------



## Devildog83

Filled with Aurora Gold. It looks white just like I thought it would. Really was hoping it would come out more gold. Oh well it's not horrible I guess.


----------



## Gabrielzm

A lot of people are after some tone of gold in the liquid (you, snef, the madprofessor). I am wondering mixing yellow dye in water with a tint of brown and white would not turn a gold like liquid? And if you are after a copper tonality would not adding to that a bit of red do the tricky?


----------



## Dyaems

Isn't gold is just a combination with yellow and a bit of black? I always used to do this with pen inks although maybe it is different with coolants


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Filled with Aurora Gold. It looks white just like I thought it would. Really was hoping it would come out more gold. Oh well it's not horrible I guess.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Try more/different lighting. Aurora is reflective. If it can't reflect light, it doesn't give off it's effect.

-Z


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Try more/different lighting. Aurora is reflective. If it can't reflect light, it doesn't give off it's effect.
> 
> -Z


So maybe amber lights?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Try more/different lighting. Aurora is reflective. If it can't reflect light, it doesn't give off it's effect.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> So maybe amber lights?
Click to expand...

White light ideally for aurora. Play with the lighting a bit. It might take a few attempts to get proper exposure to get the desired effect. Again, aurora works by the nano particles reflecting light. Since they're all reflecting light in every which way it gives it that pearl effect. Not enough light, not enough reflection. Way too much light and you /might/ white it out.

-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> White light ideally for aurora. Play with the lighting a bit. It might take a few attempts to get proper exposure to get the desired effect. Again, aurora works by the nano particles reflecting light. Since they're all reflecting light in every which way it gives it that pearl effect. Not enough light, not enough reflection. Way too much light and you /might/ white it out.
> 
> -Z


This ^


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> White light ideally for aurora. Play with the lighting a bit. It might take a few attempts to get proper exposure to get the desired effect. Again, aurora works by the nano particles reflecting light. Since they're all reflecting light in every which way it gives it that pearl effect. Not enough light, not enough reflection. Way too much light and you /might/ white it out.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> This ^
Click to expand...

This^

-Z


----------



## Frontside

Hey, guys. Need some help choosing right liquid color for my project.
Here's main color scheme


Pastel ice white would look extremely cool. But unfortunately it's out of stock in a "local watercooling store" and i'm not sure if it ever will be "in". Shipping it overseas just for coolant only...i guess it would a bit crazy expensive.

Liquids I can get my hands on: grape red, mint green, gigabyte orange, blue berry, sunset yellow raspberry purple, perfect pink and all sorts of Mayhems dyes.
Is there anything i can do with all that stuff to achieve some interesting results

Thanks in advance


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> Hey, guys. Need some help choosing right liquid color for my project.
> Here's main color scheme
> 
> 
> Pastel ice white would look extremely cool. But unfortunately it's out of stock in a "local watercooling store" and i'm not sure if it ever will be "in". Shipping it overseas just for coolant only...i guess it would a bit crazy expensive.
> 
> Liquids I can get my hands on: grape red, mint green, gigabyte orange, blue berry, sunset yellow raspberry purple, perfect pink and all sorts of Mayhems dyes.
> Is there anything i can do with all that stuff to achieve some interesting results
> 
> Thanks in advance


Your colors are monochromatic enough that you could do pretty much anything.

If you could do white, that's be good.
If you could get white, you could dye to gray
If you could get black, that'd look good

Orange I think would work well
Blue I think would work well
Yellow or yellow+red dye (make a more gold color) would look good

If you wanted to go Aurora, you could do something like supernova with some oil black dye to get it kind of a gray


----------



## Frontside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Your colors are monochromatic enough that you could do pretty much anything.
> 
> If you could do white, that's be good.
> If you could get white, you could dye to gray
> If you could get black, that'd look good
> 
> Orange I think would work well
> Blue I think would work well
> Yellow or yellow+red dye (make a more gold color) would look good
> 
> If you wanted to go Aurora, you could do something like supernova with some oil black dye to get it kind of a gray


Thanks, *cyphon*.
It's space ship (EVE online) themed build. Not sure about vivid colors

edit here what they got in stock
Aurora http://overhard.ru/721.html
Pastel http://overhard.ru/720.html
Dyes http://overhard.ru/722.html


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> Thanks, *cyphon*.
> It's space ship (EVE online) themed build. Not sure about vivid colors


In that case, I'd try to go with pastel or oil black or one of the gray options I listed above. My personal choice would be to match that darker gray in your cable sleeve.

I'd try to see what the shipping costs would be before ruling it out


----------



## Frontside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> In that case, I'd try to go with pastel or oil black or one of the gray options I listed above. My personal choice would be to match that darker gray in your cable sleeve.
> 
> I'd try to see what the shipping costs would be before ruling it out


You were right.
Here's the perfect color for my build
http://www.overclock.net/t/1508863/sponsored-parvum-warfare/840_20#post_23017892









The bad thing, thanks to our #[email protected][email protected] government, buying it overseas would cost me an arm and leg.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frontside*
> 
> You were right.
> Here's the perfect color for my build
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1508863/sponsored-parvum-warfare/840_20#post_23017892
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bad thing, thanks to our #[email protected][email protected] government, buying it overseas would cost me an arm and leg.


I was actually going to link you that build when I got off my mobile and into a real computer, lol

I'd contact your retailer and see if they have any shipments coming in soon or if they would put an order in for you. Doesn't hurt to ask


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> White light ideally for aurora. Play with the lighting a bit. It might take a few attempts to get proper exposure to get the desired effect. Again, aurora works by the nano particles reflecting light. Since they're all reflecting light in every which way it gives it that pearl effect. Not enough light, not enough reflection. Way too much light and you /might/ white it out.
> 
> -Z


I see the most gold with ambient lighting. Any lights on inside the case starts to white it out. I tried an amber light inside the photon tube but it doesn't even show. I would like to try the gold boost but the only place to buy in the US is out.

I may switch it up and try going grey/silver instead.


----------



## DarthBaggins

You running leds in the case? Or cfl?

Debating on switching from the blood red x1 I got for JAC to blood red pastel just due to longevity of the fluid (draining and flushing the m8 is not going to be fun)


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> You running leds in the case? Or cfl?
> 
> Debating on switching from the blood red x1 I got for JAC to blood red pastel just due to longevity of the fluid (draining and flushing the m8 is not going to be fun)


All LED's


----------



## DarthBaggins

Wonder if cfl would create the look you want


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> White light ideally for aurora. Play with the lighting a bit. It might take a few attempts to get proper exposure to get the desired effect. Again, aurora works by the nano particles reflecting light. Since they're all reflecting light in every which way it gives it that pearl effect. Not enough light, not enough reflection. Way too much light and you /might/ white it out.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> I see the most gold with ambient lighting. Any lights on inside the case starts to white it out. I tried an amber light inside the photon tube but it doesn't even show. I would like to try the gold boost but the only place to buy in the US is out.
> 
> I may switch it up and try going grey/silver instead.
Click to expand...

What lights specifically are you using? LED strips? What is their specific placement? Also, what is the lighting in the room like when you're trying it?

Try using a LED strip, or preferably a CCFL if you have one at your disposal, and place it in the chassis closest to your viewpoint, so that when it's reflecting off the aurora it's reflecting back at you. Also try to do this while there's little lighting in the room. (Assuming of course this isn't what you're already doing)

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> You running leds in the case? Or cfl?
> 
> Debating on switching from the blood red x1 I got for JAC to blood red pastel just due to longevity of the fluid (draining and flushing the m8 is not going to be fun)


2 years vs 3 years. IMHO I'd shoot for aesthetics over lifespan when they last that long.

-Z


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Hi - I'm looking for advice on how to make this color, if at all possible.



I've tried with Pastel Orange and adding more orange dye, but its not remotely close. Thought about trying the pastel chocolate brown, and adding orange or yellow but I'm purely guessing at this point.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

That looks like brown with a bit of orange and a little metal-flake (Aurora?).


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Nice thread, but with 1000+ pages a little hard to search - sorry if this was asked already.

There are two X1 concentrate bottles options:

- 100 ml - good for 1 L - $6
- 250 ml - good for 2 L - $18

What's the point of 250 ml then if it is 3 times as expensive and makes twice as much coolant as 100 ml one? Am I missing something?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Nice thread, but with 1000+ pages a little hard to search - sorry if this was asked already.
> 
> There are two X1 concentrate bottles options:
> 
> - 100 ml - good for 1 L - $6
> - 250 ml - good for 2 L - $18
> 
> What's the point of 250 ml then if it is 3 times as expensive and makes twice as much coolant as 100 ml one? Am I missing something?


One word, retailers. Mayhems ships coolants to retailers all over the globe. Shipping costs money. The lighter and smaller products are the cheaper it is for retailers to have it shipped to their facilities. Cheaper shipping means cheaper price. It really is that simple.

-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazy Kanuck*
> 
> Hi - I'm looking for advice on how to make this color, if at all possible.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried with Pastel Orange and adding more orange dye, but its not remotely close. Thought about trying the pastel chocolate brown, and adding orange or yellow but I'm purely guessing at this point.


Try adding some purple to the orange. I think I have some extra white pastel laying around, I'll try to do a sample for ya if I indeed do and give you the dye ratio









I think adding a little bit of Aurora booster gold would give it a shimmer like a metallic paint job. I wouldn't put a lot where you have a full Aurora effect, just a bit to make it shine a bit.


----------



## cyphon

Who was asking for this color the other day?



I did around 1pt emerald green, 1pt UV green, 4pt UV yellow/green. If you want it more green, add some extra emerald green. I started with pastel white.

Tried to get the shade of the car, but I couldn't quite capture it right... Turned out too brown. I didn't have enough white to work with, so the dye kind of over powered it.





To get here, it was 1pt blue, 2 pt green, 8pt red, 15pt yellow. Again, a little too brown


----------



## SteezyTN

Hey everyone. Let me first state that I'm brand new to colored coolant. I recently build a PC last year, and a few months ago I went all watercooling. But now I want to go PETG tubing and the parts are coming tomorrow and the rest of the week. For the first few weeks, I want to run the loop with just Distilled water. This is mainly for a leak test. Then I want to go with a red color from mayhems. Do you guys recommend the Red Pastel?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Hey everyone. Let me first state that I'm brand new to colored coolant. I recently build a PC last year, and a few months ago I went all watercooling. But now I want to go PETG tubing and the parts are coming tomorrow and the rest of the week. For the first few weeks, I want to run the loop with just Distilled water. This is mainly for a leak test. Then I want to go with a red color from mayhems. Do you guys recommend the Red Pastel?


Do air leak testing, way better









What shade of red do you want? I'd consider the pastel red to be a lighter shade. If you want a little deeper/bolder red, then add a little red dye to it. If you want more of a blood red, add the red and then a touch of blue too


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Do air leak testing, way better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What shade of red do you want? I'd consider the pastel red to be a lighter shade. If you want a little deeper/bolder red, then add a little red dye to it. If you want more of a blood red, add the red and then a touch of blue too


Air leak testing? Sorry for the stupid question, but I've never heard of that. How do I do that?

I'm looking for a mix of red in the middle. Not pinkish nor deep "blood" red. More of the ASUS ROG red.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Air leak testing? Sorry for the stupid question, but I've never heard of that. How do I do that?
> 
> I'm looking for a mix of red in the middle. Not pinkish nor deep "blood" red. More of the ASUS ROG red.


Get pastel red and some red dye. Just a little extra red dye into the pastel red will get you there.

Air leak testing is basically using a shrader valve and a pressure gauge and pressurizing the loop with around 10psi by filling up with a bike pump. If your pressure doesn't drop, you are leak free, if it does, you have a leak. You can put soapy water around the suspected leak areas and you'll see bubbles where the leaks are. It's also a good idea to test your loop in modules if it is larger.

B-Negative did a thread on it: http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Filled with Aurora Gold. It looks white just like I thought it would. Really was hoping it would come out more gold. Oh well it's not horrible I guess.


Your computer is looking awesome. Nice to see some Aurora, I will be ordering up some soon. Just debating whether I wait for new graphics cards or tear down the loop twice with rigid tubing


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Get pastel red and some red dye. Just a little extra red dye into the pastel red will get you there.
> 
> Air leak testing is basically using a shrader valve and a pressure gauge and pressurizing the loop with around 10psi by filling up with a bike pump. If your pressure doesn't drop, you are leak free, if it does, you have a leak. You can put soapy water around the suspected leak areas and you'll see bubbles where the leaks are. It's also a good idea to test your loop in modules if it is larger.
> 
> B-Negative did a thread on it: http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101


Wow... Thank you so much for sharing this! I will definitely hve to get parts to test that out. Doesn't look too expensive either.

But I'm thinking about doing just distilled water for the first few weeks, then getting mayhems red.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazy Kanuck*
> 
> Hi - I'm looking for advice on how to make this color, if at all possible.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried with Pastel Orange and adding more orange dye, but its not remotely close. Thought about trying the pastel chocolate brown, and adding orange or yellow but I'm purely guessing at this point.


purple and yellow; blue and orange; or red and green

There are many ways of mixing it, just make sure you only use tiny drops though.


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Tried to get the shade of the car, but I couldn't quite capture it right... Turned out too brown. I didn't have enough white to work with, so the dye kind of over powered it.
> 
> 
> 
> To get here, it was 1pt blue, 2 pt green, 8pt red, 15pt yellow. Again, a little too brown


Hmm ok at least gives me an idea of where to head, mixing dyes is a lot more complicated than I imagined, thank you so much for trying! I'm going to give it another try tonight.


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> purple and yellow; blue and orange; or red and green
> 
> There are many ways of mixing it, just make sure you only use tiny drops though.


Wow the man himself! Thanks for taking the time to reply, seems I have lots of avenues to attack this from, thanks!


----------



## Mayhem

Oky me and steve are off to the I-series tomorrow (saturday) in the Uk if anyone would like to say hello we will be around about dinner time for a few hours (not stopping for the night to much work to do).

Mick


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I think adding a little bit of Aurora booster gold would give it a shimmer like a metallic paint job. I wouldn't put a lot where you have a full Aurora effect, just a bit to make it shine a bit.


So like a lot of people I would imagine, my first thought was to make an Aurora coolant but after reading the wiki I'm positive its not for me. I'm also thinking even a small amount will get lost pretty quickly as I am building out a desk, so my flow is largely horizontal and there are lots of places for the little bits to settle out (4 rads, 4 res, lots of pipe, drains, etc). I would totally love any metallic affect, but I'm really not going to want to tear down this build more than once a year if at that.

Here's the latest diagram of my flow plan from a top down.


Now that all said, if there really is a viable way, I'm all ears!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazy Kanuck*
> 
> So like a lot of people I would imagine, my first thought was to make an Aurora coolant but after reading the wiki I'm positive its not for me. I'm also thinking even a small amount will get lost pretty quickly as I am building out a desk, so my flow is largely horizontal and there are lots of places for the little bits to settle out (4 rads, 4 res, lots of pipe, drains, etc). I would totally love any metallic affect, but I'm really not going to want to tear down this build more than once a year if at that.
> 
> Here's the latest diagram of my flow plan from a top down.
> 
> 
> Now that all said, if there really is a viable way, I'm all ears!


Yeah, the particles would likely set out in that loop fairly quickly. However, with the pastel, you can get 2-3 years out of the fluid







. Don't think the small bit of the aurora particles would cause you any harm when they set out though, so may be a fun thing to put in for photo-shoot and initial wow factor


----------



## LandonAaron

Looking for a good coolant to protect my mixed copper nickle loop from corrosion. I have red tubing so need for color. Should I get Mayhems XT or XT1. Whats the difference?


----------



## DarthBaggins

So x1 last 2 years not just 1? thought I read it was a 1yr life cycle on the coolant.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> X1 lasts about a year, XT1 about 1 year, Aurora dependant on your system and pastel upwards of 2 years + (max weve tested is 3 years)


Mick has mentioned something recently about newer coolants coming out might last much longer.


----------



## Devildog83

Just a bit of brown dye did wonders.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Looking for a good coolant to protect my mixed copper nickle loop from corrosion. I have red tubing so need for color. Should I get Mayhems XT or XT1. Whats the difference?


The main difference is that XT1 is Ethylene Glycol based. Both have corrosion inhibitors and biocides already included and last about a year in the system.

Personally, I'm not a big EG fan, so I prefer X1. You'll be golden with either one tho


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well I don't think I'll push it past a year, or I'll see how it's doing after 6mo if I don't end up swapping out components in that time which would cause a fluid change either way.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Get pastel red and some red dye. Just a little extra red dye into the pastel red will get you there.
> 
> Air leak testing is basically using a shrader valve and a pressure gauge and pressurizing the loop with around 10psi by filling up with a bike pump. If your pressure doesn't drop, you are leak free, if it does, you have a leak. You can put soapy water around the suspected leak areas and you'll see bubbles where the leaks are. It's also a good idea to test your loop in modules if it is larger.
> 
> B-Negative did a thread on it: http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101


I plan to do the same thing, I want to slightly darken the red pastel. Looking at Performance PC they show two different red dyes Model: MD-DYE-RD-15

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-dye-15ml-red.html#Specifications

Also Model: MD-DYE-R-15

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-dye-15ml-red-19661.html#Specifications

They look the same, nothing in the description shows the difference. Does anyone here know?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I plan to do the same thing, I want to slightly darken the red pastel. Looking at Performance PC they show two different red dyes Model: MD-DYE-RD-15
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-dye-15ml-red.html#Specifications
> 
> Also Model: MD-DYE-R-15
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-dye-15ml-red-19661.html#Specifications
> 
> They look the same, nothing in the description shows the difference. Does anyone here know?


the links you posted are the same red. But be aware that there is another one called deep red if I recall correctly.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the links you posted are the same red. But be aware that there is another one called deep red if I recall correctly.


Yes they looked the same to me too. I did a search and those came up.

Notice how they have different part #s though?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Yes they looked the same to me too. I did a search and those came up.
> 
> Notice how they have different part #s though?


do they? I notice the same model number on both: MD-DYE-RD-15


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> do they? I notice the same model number on both: MD-DYE-RD-15


I thought they were the same too... one is RD-15 and one is just R-15 (no D after the R)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I thought they were the same too... one is RD-15 and one is just R-15 (no D after the R)


a typo of the deep red which is DR? One of the new non staining dyes? Better ask PPC about it.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> a typo of the deep red which is DR? One of the new non staining dyes? Better ask PPC about it.


Ah, yes makes sense Deep Red. I'll shoot them an email. Thanks.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Ah, yes makes sense Deep Red. I'll shoot them an email. Thanks.


Yeah, I'd check on it, as the deep red may not be what you are wanting


----------



## hrockh

great thread! planning a build atm, I wonder how hard it'd be to get purple right.
the one sold as it is by Mayhems is, personally, a more dark blue.
what I am looking to get is something like this



vivid purple but without being too in-your-eyes bright. a soft purple. hope it makes sense xD


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> great thread! planning a build atm, I wonder how hard it'd be to get purple right.
> the one sold as it is by Mayhems is, personally, a more dark blue.
> what I am looking to get is something like this
> 
> 
> 
> vivid purple but without being too in-your-eyes bright. a soft purple. hope it makes sense xD


You could just mix in a bit of white to tone down the purple some. I would love to just have a bunch of colors you could just add a drop or 2 here and there to create the effect you are going for.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> great thread! planning a build atm, I wonder how hard it'd be to get purple right.
> the one sold as it is by Mayhems is, personally, a more dark blue.
> what I am looking to get is something like this
> 
> 
> 
> vivid purple but without being too in-your-eyes bright. a soft purple. hope it makes sense xD


Can always get pastel white and purple dye and dye to the color you want. Red and blue dyes is another option


----------



## fribe226

Heyhey








I just finished the Acrylic-tubing in my C 70 and filled it all up with some Mayhems








I used Pastel-White concentrate, watered down to 1.5Liters with 15ml of the UV Lazer-green dye and around 10 Drops of Uv Clear-Blue, I hope you like it


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fribe226*
> 
> Heyhey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just finished the Acrylic-tubing in my C 70 and filled it all up with some Mayhems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used Pastel-White concentrate, watered down to 1.5Liters with 15ml of the UV Lazer-green dye and around 10 Drops of Uv Clear-Blue, I hope you like it


Nice job, congrats it looks gr8.

Mark


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Im going to ask because Ive searched the thread unsuccessfully

Is there an issue using Alphacool radiators with the X1? I use both and Someone, over gaming chat, mentioned something about it being a treacherous combo and then hopped off the game before I could get any further answers out of him.

Any help would be appreciated. I have to know if I have to break my newly built system down. (FYI, using X1 clear)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Im going to ask because Ive searched the thread unsuccessfully
> 
> Is there an issue using Alphacool radiators with the X1? I use both and Someone, over gaming chat, mentioned something about it being a treacherous combo and then hopped off the game before I could get any further answers out of him.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated. I have to know if I have to break my newly built system down. (FYI, using X1 clear)


No, there is not an issue with them together.

Alphacool rads, in general, are just not cleaned out well. This can cause pH issues which can alter the color of coolants. Mayhems put out the Blitz Kit to help clean systems out before filling them.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> No, there is not an issue with them together.
> 
> Alphacool rads, in general, are just not cleaned out well. This can cause pH issues which can alter the color of coolants. Mayhems put out the Blitz Kit to help clean systems out before filling them.


Thanks. And extra thanks for such a fast reply. I had set up my pump, and 2 of the 3 rads in a little test loop and ran the coolant through for a little while. (basically I wanted to make sure that my pump could handle the height and length I was needing to push it). During that time I didnt notice any issues. So I broke it down later and then started the install.

I do remember that Alphacool rads used to be pretty dirty. But havent they fixed that? The first rad I got from them had junk inside of it but these last ones that I got were perfectly clean.

Glad to know that it was just a "left behind junk inside the rad" issue and not something that was troubled at its core. i.e. something in the metal and production process that conflicts with the X1 coolant.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Thanks. And extra thanks for such a fast reply. I had set up my pump, and 2 of the 3 rads in a little test loop and ran the coolant through for a little while. (basically I wanted to make sure that my pump could handle the height and length I was needing to push it). During that time I didnt notice any issues. So I broke it down later and then started the install.
> 
> I do remember that Alphacool rads used to be pretty dirty. But havent they fixed that? The first rad I got from them had junk inside of it but these last ones that I got were perfectly clean.
> 
> Glad to know that it was just a "left behind junk inside the rad" issue and not something that was troubled at its core. i.e. something in the metal and production process that conflicts with the X1 coolant.


Just to further put your mind at rest I am currently using a ut60 rad with x1 and no problems here. Just make sure the rads are properly clean and flushed well before use and you should be fine.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> Just to further put your mind at rest I am currently using a ut60 rad with x1 and no problems here. Just make sure the rads are properly clean and flushed well before use and you should be fine.


Thanks. It does help. Ive been closely monitoring the whole system since I finished the build a few weeks ago and I figured if there was a problem I wouldve noticed something by now.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Get pastel red and some red dye. Just a little extra red dye into the pastel red will get you there.


what is the difference between the 1 Liter coolant Vs the 250mL concentrate? Also, I heard that the pastel coolant will raise temps of about 5C? Is that true?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> what is the difference between the 1 Liter coolant Vs the 250mL concentrate?


The liter is a pre-mixed fluid and is good to go right away. The concentrate you add DI water to to get your coolant. The concentrate will make 1L of usable fluid as well.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The liter is a pre-mixed fluid and is good to go right away. The concentrate you add DI water to to get your coolant. The concentrate will make 1L of usable fluid as well.


Okay, makes sense. Thank you. But if that's the case, why is the concentrate like $2-3 more?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Concentrate is actually cheaper.

- 100 ml - good for 1 L - $6
- 250 ml - good for 2 L - $18
- 1 L premixed - $11.50


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Concentrate is actually cheaper.
> 
> - 100 ml - good for 1 L - $6
> - 250 ml - good for 2 L - $18
> - 1 L premixed - $11.50


Where is that pricing at? PPCS is more expensive then...
http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-pastel-coolant-1-liter-red.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-pastel-red-concentrate-250ml.html


----------



## cmpxchg8b

@SteezyTN - oh sorry that was for clear; I did not notice you meant red pastel.

I suppose you save on shipping charges then with concentrate.


----------



## fribe226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> what is the difference between the 1 Liter coolant Vs the 250mL concentrate? Also, I heard that the pastel coolant will raise temps of about 5C? Is that true?


I cannot confirm that the temperature is higher with pastel coolant, I just switched from clear to pastel 2 days ago, and the temps are exactly the same


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fribe226*
> 
> I cannot confirm that the temperature is higher with pastel coolant, I just switched from clear to pastel 2 days ago, and the temps are exactly the same


Clear? As in distilled water or coolant? I Should clarify that I've heard the pastel coolant gives 5c higher temps over distilled water.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> @SteezyTN - oh sorry that was for clear; I did not notice you meant red pastel.
> 
> I suppose you save on shipping charges then with concentrate.


This is true. Depending on where you are, the concentrate can be cheaper because it is a lot smaller and lighter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fribe226*
> 
> I cannot confirm that the temperature is higher with pastel coolant, I just switched from clear to pastel 2 days ago, and the temps are exactly the same


I rarely notice a difference with regular use. If you are hardcore benching, you might see it slightly higher than water. Then again, this will probably not cause you to get into temperature troubles


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Clear? As in distilled water or coolant? I Should clarify that I've heard the pastel coolant gives 5c higher temps over distilled water.


certainly not. I run the same system (chessboard) under the same circumstances with aurora first, then pastel and then clear distilled water and I didn't detect any differences in temps.


----------



## fribe226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Clear? As in distilled water or coolant? I Should clarify that I've heard the pastel coolant gives 5c higher temps over distilled water.


Yeah, I was talking about clear coolant, not distilled water, sorry for the misunderstanding


----------



## SteezyTN

So I've heard that Mayhems Pastel coolants don't work well with primochill tubing. Does this also apply to Primochill PETG tubing? Or is any of this true?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Im going to ask because Ive searched the thread unsuccessfully
> 
> Is there an issue using Alphacool radiators with the X1? I use both and Someone, over gaming chat, mentioned something about it being a treacherous combo and then hopped off the game before I could get any further answers out of him.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated. I have to know if I have to break my newly built system down. (FYI, using X1 clear)


X1 works fine. X1 Red (or any red coolant) will turn crap red from contamination due to the flux in the solder joints.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> No, there is not an issue with them together.
> 
> Alphacool rads, in general, are just not cleaned out well. This can cause pH issues which can alter the color of coolants. Mayhems put out the Blitz Kit to help clean systems out before filling them.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. And extra thanks for such a fast reply. I had set up my pump, and 2 of the 3 rads in a little test loop and ran the coolant through for a little while. (basically I wanted to make sure that my pump could handle the height and length I was needing to push it). During that time I didnt notice any issues. So I broke it down later and then started the install.
> 
> I do remember that Alphacool rads used to be pretty dirty. But havent they fixed that? The first rad I got from them had junk inside of it but these last ones that I got were perfectly clean.
> 
> Glad to know that it was just a "left behind junk inside the rad" issue and not something that was troubled at its core. i.e. something in the metal and production process that conflicts with the X1 coolant.
Click to expand...

Alphacool rads have never been "clean". They don't clean them from the factory at all. This means whether you have solder chunks in there or not is a huge crapshoot, but you can be 100% sure there's a ton of flux still on the surface of the solder joints. This flux is what causes issues with some coolants. It gets dissolved from the solder joints into the coolant and messes it up. I've never had flux issues with X1 clear. It might wack with UV dyes. As Cyphon said, you can blitz it to remove the flux if you want.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fribe226*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> what is the difference between the 1 Liter coolant Vs the 250mL concentrate? Also, I heard that the pastel coolant will raise temps of about 5C? Is that true?
> 
> 
> 
> I cannot confirm that the temperature is higher with pastel coolant, I just switched from clear to pastel 2 days ago, and the temps are exactly the same
Click to expand...

Pastel giving slightly higher *coolant* temperatures is a known "issue", if it can be called as such. Generally at higher loads it will have 2celcius higher *coolant* temperatures. This should have very little effect on core temperatures. I don't know where that 5c mark came from, but that's a gross exaggeration.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I've heard that Mayhems Pastel coolants don't work well with primochill tubing. Does this also apply to Primochill PETG tubing? Or is any of this true?


 First I've ever heard that. Primochill *Advanced* LRT is the present recommended tubing for mayhems coolants. PETG should work fine. Avoid Primochill Pro LRT.

-Z


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> certainly not. I run the same system (chessboard) under the same circumstances with aurora first, then pastel and then clear distilled water and I didn't detect any differences in temps.


Echo !!!


----------



## fleetfeather

As long as the seal isn't broken, what's the lifespan of a bottle of unopened X1?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> As long as the seal isn't broken, what's the lifespan of a bottle of unopened X1?


http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/products/normal-coolants/mayhems-x1
Quote:


> Can be stored for up to 3 years (in a cool dry environment)


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/products/normal-coolants/mayhems-x1


Thanks









I suppose my next question is, what was the aprox. date of manufacture for that "limited edition" (failed batch) of Mayhems X1 Emerald Green then:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> For any one interested. There was a batch of liquids ive messed up. So we have changed it to X1 + emerald green and made it UV active. Now the problem is we do not sell this product at all.. so instead of binning it as its a perfectly good fluid were giving it away.
> 
> The Fluid is X1 UV Emerald Green 250ml Concentrate
> 
> To get it, leave me a message here and ill PM the details across how to get you hands on it.
> 
> *YOU WILL HAVE TO PAY POST AND PACKING ONLY.*
> 
> The fluid, bottle, child safety cap, sticker, work done on it is all free ...
> 
> 250ml concentrate will make 3 Ltrs of X1 fluid.
> 
> If you do not like the colour you will not be refunded, you cannot swap it for another colour as you are not paying for the product, you are just paying for shipping. We will make no money by sending you this item and we are doing it at cost to mayhems as we could have just binned the whole batch instead.
> 
> this is the colour -


(I can't find a 'manufactured date' anywhere on the bottle; it may have rubbed off)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well, a short time before the 5/25/13 date of that post by Mick would be a safe bet, so nearly ~2 years now. I can't imagine there would be any need to be accurate to the exact day would there? It's time to put that fluid to use already!


----------



## P1nPo1nt

My build using Mayhems Tharsis Red Aurora 2 is complete







Built the system using RECOMMENDED config of two pass rad, high flow blocks with restriction plate in the CPU block removed

Pics:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## guitarhero23

on that build.


----------



## SteezyTN

I want to order Mayhems, but I don't feel like paying $16 in shipping PPCS! They rip people off on shipping...

Anyways, I was going to get Mayhems pastel red for my build (ROG motherboard- VI Hero, AX860 -red logo, and Corsair Memory in red), but them I realized that I purchased the anodized red revolver fittings from primochill.

Besides pastel red, what other colors would look good? Would white?


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I want to order Mayhems, but I don't feel like paying $16 in shipping PPCS! They rip people off on shipping...
> 
> Anyways, I was going to get Mayhems pastel red for my build (ROG motherboard- VI Hero, AX860 -red logo, and Corsair Memory in red), but them I realized that I purchased the anodized red revolver fittings from primochill.
> 
> Besides pastel red, what other colors would look good? Would white?


Which method of shipping is $16 ?


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I want to order Mayhems, but I don't feel like paying $16 in shipping PPCS! They rip people off on shipping...


I was about to check the shipping on Xoxide, but when I went to add something to the cart, their website is not working. PPCS REALLY needs to step up their game. They are the only big player left. This would be the time to do a serious rethink on how they do things before someone else comes along that does things better and steals their customers. They need to adjust their shipping rates, improve their website, fix their online login capabilities, BIG TIME improve their mobile browsing abilities, increase their offerings, and a host of other changes. They don't realize it yet, but they are perfectly poised to take the modding community by storm. They have the stock. They have the existing infrastructure. They have the expertise. The only thing they need now is the willingness to take what is there for them.
Quote:


> Anyways, I was going to get Mayhems pastel red for my build (ROG motherboard- VI Hero, AX860 -red logo, and Corsair Memory in red), but them I realized that I purchased the anodized red revolver fittings from primochill.
> 
> Besides pastel red, what other colors would look good? Would white?


Tharsis Red?


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> I was about to check the shipping on Xoxide, but when I went to add something to the cart, their website is not working. PPCS REALLY needs to step up their game. They are the only big player left. This would be the time to do a serious rethink on how they do things before someone else comes along that does things better and steals their customers. They need to adjust their shipping rates, improve their website, fix their online login capabilities, BIG TIME improve their mobile browsing abilities, increase their offerings, and a host of other changes. They don't realize it yet, but they are perfectly poised to take the modding community by storm. They have the stock. They have the existing infrastructure. They have the expertise. The only thing they need now is the willingness to take what is there for them.
> Tharsis Red?


Maybe business has been the same since frozencpu went under? Who knows!
Especially considering performance-pcs had better prices on most of the inventory, just my opinion.
Iirc, there were some posts in a thread where it was mentioned the owner did not want to plan any form of takeover due to what happened over at frozencpu. It was a quoted post in a main thread, but of course without a link or screenshot this info becomes sort of useless


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Tharsis Red?


there is red? Ummm I know that. That's why I said I was going to get Mayhems paste red..... BUT, because I ordered the red fittings, it would look kind of weird.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Which method of shipping is $16 ?


I should have clarified. i need to order 3 bottles worth, and it was $16 to ship all of them. That was for Fedex ground. They want $30 for USPS priority, when they can just do flat rate for $10-17. They overcharge like hell. Great company, but shipping is where they get you!


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> I was about to check the shipping on Xoxide, but when I went to add something to the cart, their website is not working. PPCS REALLY needs to step up their game. They are the only big player left. This would be the time to do a serious rethink on how they do things before someone else comes along that does things better and steals their customers. They need to adjust their shipping rates, improve their website, fix their online login capabilities, BIG TIME improve their mobile browsing abilities, increase their offerings, and a host of other changes. They don't realize it yet, but they are perfectly poised to take the modding community by storm. They have the stock. They have the existing infrastructure. They have the expertise. The only thing they need now is the willingness to take what is there for them.
> Tharsis Red?
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe business has been the same since frozencpu went under? Who knows!
> Especially considering performance-pcs had better prices on most of the inventory, just my opinion.
> Iirc, there were some posts in a thread where it was mentioned the owner did not want to plan any form of takeover due to what happened over at frozencpu. It was a quoted post in a main thread, but of course without a link or screenshot this info becomes sort of useless
Click to expand...

I think he said that he wouldn't be jacking up the prices due to being the last man standing.

In any case, there's absolutely nothing wrong with supplying what people are demanding. If you can sell someone what they want and you choose not to, you're shooting yourself in the financial foot. While there may have been some kind of "gentleman's agreement" between PPCS and FCPU to not try and out-compete each other, now that FCPU has basically tanked and is dead in the water with no realistic hope of recovery (Friga burnt too many bridges with a lot of customers and his now-former staff to the point that people are saying they wouldn't go back if he was in charge, if at all), any kind of agreement is now null and void.

Think of it this way. Let's say that Joe's Cable Company and Mark's Cable Company make a gentleman's agreement to respect each other's business and basically divide the service area between the two of them. Both are respected. Both are well known. Then Joe's Cable Company folds and shuts its doors. Do you think it's reasonable to expect Mark's Cable Company to continue to respect the agreement and leave Joe's now-former customers without service?

No, the honorable thing to do in a situation like this is to respect FrozenCPU as a company by doing right by its customers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Tharsis Red?
> 
> 
> 
> there is red? Ummm I know that. That's why I said I was going to get Mayhems paste red..... BUT, because I ordered the red fittings, it would look kind of weird.
Click to expand...

Ah... How about Aurora Silver?

EDIT: Oooh! Better idea. How about the Ice White with Aurora Silver Booster tossed in. That could be an intriguing look.


----------



## Domiro

Aquatuning carries Mayhems and has cheap shipping options.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Maybe business has been the same since frozencpu went under? Who knows!
> Especially considering performance-pcs had better prices on most of the inventory, just my opinion.
> Iirc, there were some posts in a thread where it was mentioned the owner did not want to plan any form of takeover due to what happened over at frozencpu. It was a quoted post in a main thread, but of course without a link or screenshot this info becomes sort of useless


Their shipping costs are terrible , i ordered 5 x EK HD 10/12 500mm , that is a tinny box the 500mm long by not more than 50-60 mm diameter and it cots $ 84.00 USD which is way more than the $ 49 for tube , ridiculous !!

Sorry to post off topic ... but im going to do it again ...as this is the only real water cooled thread in the net that is worth posing in , that you get an immediate answer , thanks cyphon , Z , , , Mick , Unicr0hunter , great work guys , this thread rocks ! and the dedication from all main contributors is outstanding
!

My question , just a curiosity on rigid tubing really , i posted in the watercooling thread , but that seems necro , so i post here .

i have been using EK HD 10/12 to do my bends and i find it awesome to work with , i have monsoon mandrels , but built my own jig to get tight 30mm radius bends , the EK stuff does that easily !

I then got some E22 10/12 , that stuff is simply hopeless to work with , cant get even close to as tight a bend or clean , it doesnt matter what i do i cant stop it folding on the inside when i bend , maybe im doing something wrong , have 5 M of it which is good for the bin.

Any other tubing as good as EK HD 10/12 ? and anyone else had this issue with E22.

I will be posting pic's soonish of my Mayhems Yellow / Green soon , my build is all about this Mayhems X1 and rigid tube , its coming along nicely , and i have started my build log in sig , though the log some way behind , getting populated each day.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Aquatuning carries Mayhems and has cheap shipping options.


I just looked at this website (never actually purchased from them before) but you need at least $75 to order....


----------



## SteezyTN

I have an RX240, RX360, and an EX240. Do you guys recommend the Mayhems Blitz cleaning Kit? I recently used a 1:4 ratio of white distilled vinegar (1 cup) and Distilled water (4 cups) and tried my best to get some "gunk" out. Then I flushed it multiple times with just distilled water. Is that okay, or do I need more? Is it even necessary?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have an RX240, RX360, and an EX240. Do you guys recommend the Mayhems Blitz cleaning Kit? I recently used a 1:4 ratio of white distilled vinegar (1 cup) and Distilled water (4 cups) and tried my best to get some "gunk" out. Then I flushed it multiple times with just distilled water. Is that okay, or do I need more? Is it even necessary?


no need mate. You are good to go. Those rads are usually quite clean. Normally a hot water shake method would be enough.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have an RX240, RX360, and an EX240. Do you guys recommend the Mayhems Blitz cleaning Kit? I recently used a 1:4 ratio of white distilled vinegar (1 cup) and Distilled water (4 cups) and tried my best to get some "gunk" out. Then I flushed it multiple times with just distilled water. Is that okay, or do I need more? Is it even necessary?


If its acceptable to you then go for it, the blitz kit is there for a thorough deep clean.


----------



## Mayhem

Aquatuning / Phobya/ Alphacool will soon have a rep on OCN. Spoke to them over the weekend in length and things are changing. So soon you can chat to them direct but i will pass on your concerns i read and have read in this post.


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I just looked at this website (never actually purchased from them before) but you need at least $75 to order....


Ah, no idea there was a limit for certain countries.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *Aquatuning / Phobya/ Alphacool will soon have a rep on OCN.* Spoke to them over the weekend in length and things are changing. So soon you can chat to them direct but i will pass on your concerns i read and have read in this post.


I sure wouldn't want to be him . . . . . . Hope he has a thick skin

The real question is, did they just find someone with a PhD in Spin Doctoring, just for appearances . . . . .

Or did they decide that they really need to up their game, and honestly want feedback on their issues to better their product.

Time will be the real arbiter on that question.

Darlene


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Aquatuning / Phobya/ Alphacool will soon have a rep on OCN. Spoke to them over the weekend in length and things are changing. So soon you can chat to them direct but i will pass on your concerns i read and have read in this post.


This is good to hear. It's long overdue IMO. Hopefully they are regularly active and are themselves enthusiasts.

That first couple weeks for them is going to be rough tho...


----------



## Devildog83

Maybe I am lucky but I built my system with an XT45 360mm rad and Alphacool 90 degree rotary fittings. I recently took my system apart and clean it. The only thing I found was white residue from the pastel ice white coolant and I did nothing in the beginning but run some distilled through it. No leaks, no problems.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Aquatuning / Phobya/ Alphacool will soon have a rep on OCN. Spoke to them over the weekend in length and things are changing. So soon you can chat to them direct but i will pass on your concerns i read and have read in this post.


I assume you spoke to PB? It will be an interesting time for sure, there have been Aquatuning guys here unofficially before but it would be good to have an official rep.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh we sat with PB for quite a while and had some good discussions







. cannot say much more than that.

Allso picked up Thermaltake new high static pressure fans ... we will be playing and testing then ....


----------



## VSG

Oh of course, PB seems like a nice chap too. I've had some open discussions with him over email and it does seem like they want to improve the right way so let's see.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Is it correct to assume that, once the jet plate is removed, there would be no issues with using the EK FC980 Copper Acetal waterblock?


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Maybe I am lucky but I built my system with an XT45 360mm rad and Alphacool 90 degree rotary fittings. I recently took my system apart and clean it. The only thing I found was white residue from the pastel ice white coolant and I did nothing in the beginning but run some distilled through it. No leaks, no problems.


FWIW, I ran my Alpha UT60 without cleaning it and used clear coolant. EVERYTHING was covered in a white residue left over from the Alpha. Ordered a Blitz kit the next day.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Is it correct to assume that, once the jet plate is removed, there would be no issues with using the EK FC980 Copper Acetal waterblock?


If you are referring to using Aurora coolant, then all jet plates should be removed from the loop. The loop should also be relatively simple with single row radiators, tube and not bay reservoirs, etc.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Is it correct to assume that, once the jet plate is removed, there would be no issues with using the EK FC980 Copper Acetal waterblock?
> 
> 
> 
> If you are referring to using Aurora coolant, then all jet plates should be removed from the loop. The loop should also be relatively simple with single row radiators, tube and not bay reservoirs, etc.
Click to expand...

I was actually referring to the internal layout of the block... I don't want a place for the nanoparticles to get stuck.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Is it correct to assume that, once the jet plate is removed, there would be no issues with using the EK FC980 Copper Acetal waterblock?


For aurora, it's a good idea. For any other coolant (including pastel) it's entirely unnecessary.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Maybe I am lucky but I built my system with an XT45 360mm rad and Alphacool 90 degree rotary fittings. I recently took my system apart and clean it. The only thing I found was white residue from the pastel ice white coolant and I did nothing in the beginning but run some distilled through it. No leaks, no problems.
> 
> 
> 
> FWIW, I ran my Alpha UT60 without cleaning it and used clear coolant. EVERYTHING was covered in a white residue left over from the Alpha. Ordered a Blitz kit the next day.
Click to expand...

White residue sounds like a plasticizers issue. Flux would be a bit darker.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Is it correct to assume that, once the jet plate is removed, there would be no issues with using the EK FC980 Copper Acetal waterblock?
> 
> 
> 
> If you are referring to using Aurora coolant, then all jet plates should be removed from the loop. The loop should also be relatively simple with single row radiators, tube and not bay reservoirs, etc.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was actually referring to the internal layout of the block... I don't want a place for the nanoparticles to get stuck.
Click to expand...

Oh, nanoparticles will get stuck, if no where else than in the radiator. That is a given. Just gotta get the loop in a way that it keeps enough of the particles in suspension to keep the effect. Typically lots of particles can get stuck in the Oring seal of a jetplate due to the confined space and notable pressure drop caused by the jet plate.

-Z


----------



## SteezyTN

So if I was going to use Pastel red, a 1:4 ratio of distilled white vinegar and distilled water is enough, right? I just don't want to spend $60+ on coolant, and find out that my rads have an issue, and turn the coolant brown.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> For aurora, it's a good idea. For any other coolant (including pastel) it's entirely unnecessary.
> 
> -Z
> White residue sounds like a plasticizers issue. Flux would be a bit darker.
> 
> -Z
> Oh, nanoparticles will get stuck, if no where else than in the radiator. That is a given. Just gotta get the loop in a way that it keeps enough of the particles in suspension to keep the effect. Typically lots of particles can get stuck in the Oring seal of a jetplate due to the confined space and notable pressure drop caused by the jet plate.
> 
> -Z


A plasticizer issue with acrylic tubing. Is that possible? It's just the pastel white doing it's thing. Just rinsed right out of the system.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Is it correct to assume that, once the jet plate is removed, there would be no issues with using the EK FC980 Copper Acetal waterblock?
> 
> 
> 
> For aurora, it's a good idea. For any other coolant (including pastel) it's entirely unnecessary.
> 
> -Z
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Maybe I am lucky but I built my system with an XT45 360mm rad and Alphacool 90 degree rotary fittings. I recently took my system apart and clean it. The only thing I found was white residue from the pastel ice white coolant and I did nothing in the beginning but run some distilled through it. No leaks, no problems.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> FWIW, I ran my Alpha UT60 without cleaning it and used clear coolant. EVERYTHING was covered in a white residue left over from the Alpha. Ordered a Blitz kit the next day.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> White residue sounds like a plasticizers issue. Flux would be a bit darker.
> 
> -Z
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Is it correct to assume that, once the jet plate is removed, there would be no issues with using the EK FC980 Copper Acetal waterblock?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you are referring to using Aurora coolant, then all jet plates should be removed from the loop. The loop should also be relatively simple with single row radiators, tube and not bay reservoirs, etc.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was actually referring to the internal layout of the block... I don't want a place for the nanoparticles to get stuck.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh, nanoparticles will get stuck, if no where else than in the radiator. That is a given. Just gotta get the loop in a way that it keeps enough of the particles in suspension to keep the effect. Typically lots of particles can get stuck in the Oring seal of a jetplate due to the confined space and notable pressure drop caused by the jet plate.
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

I was referring to the internal layout of the block and whether or not it would cause some unnecessary flow problems for the Aurora. Kinda like the discussion we had that led to the return of the EK block and replacement with a Heatkiller.


----------



## DaMadOne

Since this seems to be THE place for water cooling advice, and I want to use Mayhem's Pastel Yellow in my build. I would like to run the setup I have in my shopping cart on PPCs right now by you fine folk.

1x EK-Supremacy EVO cpu block (nickle/acetal)
3x EK ref. 980 water blocks (nickel/acetal)
1x EK-XRES 100 D5 PWM w/ pump
1x Alphacool XT45 full copper 240mm
1x Alphacool XT45 full copper 360mm
10x Monsoon free center compression fittings (matte black)
1x Monsoon 90° Rotary Angle Fitting (matte black)
1x Monsoon 45° Rotary Angle Fitting (matte black)
10ft PrimoChill Advanced LRT 7/16 ID 5/8 OD (Clear)
2L Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow (premix)

This will be my first custom loop so naturally I have been reading up on it a ton. With the nickle/acetal blocks and copper rads it is a mixed metal loop, but Mayhem's supposedly has you covered on that.

*MY BIGGEST CONCERN* -> I've read many great posts and reviews of Mayhem Pastel coolants and while I will probably be doing flush/coolant swap every 8-10-ish months I like the 2+ year life span of it if only for peace of mind. The only thing I have seen at a couple of places that has me hesitant is that it has separated on some people. Like the base coolant has separated from whatever else makes up the pastel coolant (nano particles?) and caused quite a mess and even blocked up one guys whole system when it happened, destroying one of those expensive, tall external rad/pump setups. What causes this? One person said it did it after his PC was off for some time. I normally suspend my PC when I goto bed and wake it up when I get home from work, so 16-ish hours a day it is "off". Is the separating of the fluid/particles something I should really be concerned about or are these weird edge cases where someone probably did something really wrong and/or dumb and caused an odd reaction? I know one of them mentioned reusing his coolant after a clean/flush.. which I wouldn't do.

I've read quite a few posts in the last dozen pages or so on this thread about the Alphacool rads coming dirty and that they should be cleaned very well before use. So... is hot water + violent shaking and then vinegar + DI enough or is something like Mayhem blitz a must? I've looked at soo many rads and keep coming back to the Alphacool Nexxxos based on specs mostly.. but the price is nice too.. Other than needing to be cleaned is there any other reason I might have missed that may make me change my mind on those rads? and/or suggestions to replacements with the same-ish FPI? I don't want to have any bad reactions with the Mayhem's Pastel. ULTRA silence is not the main goal, mostly looking for a nice balance between silence and performance which is why I like the middle of the road-ish 12FPI of the Nexxxos XT45 rads.

I know the EK-XRES 100 + D5 PWM pump is a good res and a powerful pump. Should it be enough to push 3 GPU blocks, a CPU block and the two rads? I would think so, but feedback from those with experience is certainly appreciated.

Can't say I've read anything bad about the EK blocks that is recent (after the nickel plating debacle) and many people seem to use them, they look nice and the price is ok too. They don't have reference 970 blocks, but I've seen it "confirmed" that the 980 block fits the reference Nvidia GTX 970's. From what I can tell based on PCB shots of both is that they do indeed share the same board and the actual GPU chip is the only difference.

I don't think I've read anything but good things about those Monsoon fittings so I think I am pretty firm on using those.

PriomChill Advanced LRT seems to be the most recommended tubing.

I think that is all the questions I have, hopefully everything looks good and I'm just being overly cautious as per usual. Thanks in advance!!

EDIT* anyone have any input on serial vs. parallel when it comes to SLI GPU's? It would seems to me that running in parallel would be quite a bit less restrictive but are you trading restriction for noticeably worse temps?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaMadOne*
> 
> Since this seems to be THE place for water cooling advice, and I want to use Mayhem's Pastel Yellow in my build. I would like to run the setup I have in my shopping cart on PPCs right now by you fine folk.
> 
> 1x EK-Supremacy EVO cpu block (nickle/acetal)
> 3x EK ref. 980 water blocks (nickel/acetal)
> 1x EK-XRES 100 D5 PWM w/ pump
> 1x Alphacool XT45 full copper 240mm
> 1x Alphacool XT45 full copper 360mm
> 10x Monsoon free center compression fittings (matte black)
> 1x Monsoon 90° Rotary Angle Fitting (matte black)
> 1x Monsoon 45° Rotary Angle Fitting (matte black)
> 10ft PrimoChill Advanced LRT 7/16 ID 5/8 OD (Clear)
> 2L Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow (premix)
> 
> This will be my first custom loop so naturally I have been reading up on it a ton. With the nickle/acetal blocks and copper rads it is a mixed metal loop, but Mayhem's supposedly has you covered on that.
> 
> *MY BIGGEST CONCERN* -> I've read many great posts and reviews of Mayhem Pastel coolants and while I will probably be doing flush/coolant swap every 8-10-ish months I like the 2+ year life span of it if only for peace of mind. The only thing I have seen at a couple of places that has me hesitant is that it has separated on some people. Like the base coolant has separated from whatever else makes up the pastel coolant (nano particles?) and caused quite a mess and even blocked up one guys whole system when it happened, destroying one of those expensive, tall external rad/pump setups. What causes this? One person said it did it after his PC was off for some time. I normally suspend my PC when I goto bed and wake it up when I get home from work, so 16-ish hours a day it is "off". Is the separating of the fluid/particles something I should really be concerned about or are these weird edge cases where someone probably did something really wrong and/or dumb and caused an odd reaction? I know one of them mentioned reusing his coolant after a clean/flush.. which I wouldn't do.
> 
> I've read quite a few posts in the last dozen pages or so on this thread about the Alphacool rads coming dirty and that they should be cleaned very well before use. So... is hot water + violent shaking and then vinegar + DI enough or is something like Mayhem blitz a must? I've looked at soo many rads and keep coming back to the Alphacool Nexxxos based on specs mostly.. but the price is nice too.. Other than needing to be cleaned is there any other reason I might have missed that may make me change my mind on those rads? and/or suggestions to replacements with the same-ish FPI? I don't want to have any bad reactions with the Mayhem's Pastel. ULTRA silence is not the main goal, mostly looking for a nice balance between silence and performance which is why I like the middle of the road-ish 12FPI of the Nexxxos XT45 rads.
> 
> I know the EK-XRES 100 + D5 PWM pump is a good res and a powerful pump. Should it be enough to push 3 GPU blocks, a CPU block and the two rads? I would think so, but feedback from those with experience is certainly appreciated.
> 
> Can't say I've read anything bad about the EK blocks that is recent (after the nickel plating debacle) and many people seem to use them, they look nice and the price is ok too. They don't have reference 970 blocks, but I've seen it "confirmed" that the 980 block fits the reference Nvidia GTX 970's. From what I can tell based on PCB shots of both is that they do indeed share the same board and the actual GPU chip is the only difference.
> 
> I don't think I've read anything but good things about those Monsoon fittings so I think I am pretty firm on using those.
> 
> PriomChill Advanced LRT seems to be the most recommended tubing.
> 
> I think that is all the questions I have, hopefully everything looks good and I'm just being overly cautious as per usual. Thanks in advance!!
> 
> EDIT* anyone have any input on serial vs. parallel when it comes to SLI GPU's? It would seems to me that running in parallel would be quite a bit less restrictive but are you trading restriction for noticeably worse temps?


PArallel x serial will not affect your temps. the ek 980 is a surprisingly little restrictive block but using both (just realized you will have 3) in parallel + the cpu block might improve your overall flow on the loop, specially if you are using 4 blocks. If you have room in your case and some pocket left after all this you might consider a second d5 just for redundancy (safety) and silence (since you will be able to run it at lower speeds). But alas that is not a requirement and the d5 will handle your loop specially if you put the gpu blocks in paralell. Your components choice are good ones. However, the alphacool rads are really dirty and blitz is almost a must if you want pastel to work on your loop with ocool rads. Then I ask: why spend less in a rad you need to blitz it when the price of rad+blitz would put you on a range of prices where a much cleaner and well finished rad can be brought? Just mine two cents mate. Personally I would go with EK, XSPC or HWlabs rads. I like the offer from Mayhems but I think there is room to improve on the next generation of Havoc since the quad pass is a bit restrictive. But here is a ton of info for you to digest:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/

you can even pick those rads with less restriction to help your d5 get the job done at lower speed and accordingly less noise.

About tubing not sure but Mayhems was launching a new tube which sounded good to my ears. Not sure is out yet.
All of this is just mine opinion


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Okay, so here's my list of parts so far.

The CPU block is already bought, as is the pump top and pump casing mod.

There are no fittings or tubing in the list as of yet. That's a later purchase.

Let me know if there's something that I need to change or am forgetting entirely.

CPU: Heatkiller 3.0 (already purchased)
GPU 1: EK FC980 Copper/Acetal
GPU 2: EK FC980 Copper/Acetal
Radiator 1: Black Ice Nemesis 360 GTS
Radiator 2: Black Ice Nemesis 280 GTS
Reservoir: Bitspower Z-Multi 300 Brass Edition
Pump 1: Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Control
Pump 2: Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Control
P1 Mod: Bitspower D5/MCP655 Mod Kit (already purchased)
P2 Mod: Bitspower D5/MCP655 Mod Kit (already purchased)
Pump Top: Bitspower Dual D5 Mod Top - Acetal (already purchased)
Fans: (6) Prolima Vortex 120mm fans, (4) Prolima Vortex 140mm fans

Will these parts (with the appropriate jet plates removed) be considered "Aurora Safe"?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaMadOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> Since this seems to be THE place for water cooling advice, and I want to use Mayhem's Pastel Yellow in my build. I would like to run the setup I have in my shopping cart on PPCs right now by you fine folk.
> 
> 1x EK-Supremacy EVO cpu block (nickle/acetal)
> 3x EK ref. 980 water blocks (nickel/acetal)
> 1x EK-XRES 100 D5 PWM w/ pump
> 1x Alphacool XT45 full copper 240mm
> 1x Alphacool XT45 full copper 360mm
> 10x Monsoon free center compression fittings (matte black)
> 1x Monsoon 90° Rotary Angle Fitting (matte black)
> 1x Monsoon 45° Rotary Angle Fitting (matte black)
> 10ft PrimoChill Advanced LRT 7/16 ID 5/8 OD (Clear)
> 2L Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow (premix)
> 
> This will be my first custom loop so naturally I have been reading up on it a ton. With the nickle/acetal blocks and copper rads it is a mixed metal loop, but Mayhem's supposedly has you covered on that.
> 
> *MY BIGGEST CONCERN* -> I've read many great posts and reviews of Mayhem Pastel coolants and while I will probably be doing flush/coolant swap every 8-10-ish months I like the 2+ year life span of it if only for peace of mind. The only thing I have seen at a couple of places that has me hesitant is that it has separated on some people. Like the base coolant has separated from whatever else makes up the pastel coolant (nano particles?) and caused quite a mess and even blocked up one guys whole system when it happened, destroying one of those expensive, tall external rad/pump setups. What causes this? One person said it did it after his PC was off for some time. I normally suspend my PC when I goto bed and wake it up when I get home from work, so 16-ish hours a day it is "off". Is the separating of the fluid/particles something I should really be concerned about or are these weird edge cases where someone probably did something really wrong and/or dumb and caused an odd reaction? I know one of them mentioned reusing his coolant after a clean/flush.. which I wouldn't do.
> 
> I've read quite a few posts in the last dozen pages or so on this thread about the Alphacool rads coming dirty and that they should be cleaned very well before use. So... is hot water + violent shaking and then vinegar + DI enough or is something like Mayhem blitz a must? I've looked at soo many rads and keep coming back to the Alphacool Nexxxos based on specs mostly.. but the price is nice too.. Other than needing to be cleaned is there any other reason I might have missed that may make me change my mind on those rads? and/or suggestions to replacements with the same-ish FPI? I don't want to have any bad reactions with the Mayhem's Pastel. ULTRA silence is not the main goal, mostly looking for a nice balance between silence and performance which is why I like the middle of the road-ish 12FPI of the Nexxxos XT45 rads.
> 
> I know the EK-XRES 100 + D5 PWM pump is a good res and a powerful pump. Should it be enough to push 3 GPU blocks, a CPU block and the two rads? I would think so, but feedback from those with experience is certainly appreciated.
> 
> Can't say I've read anything bad about the EK blocks that is recent (after the nickel plating debacle) and many people seem to use them, they look nice and the price is ok too. They don't have reference 970 blocks, but I've seen it "confirmed" that the 980 block fits the reference Nvidia GTX 970's. From what I can tell based on PCB shots of both is that they do indeed share the same board and the actual GPU chip is the only difference.
> 
> I don't think I've read anything but good things about those Monsoon fittings so I think I am pretty firm on using those.
> 
> PriomChill Advanced LRT seems to be the most recommended tubing.
> 
> I think that is all the questions I have, hopefully everything looks good and I'm just being overly cautious as per usual. Thanks in advance!!
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT* anyone have any input on serial vs. parallel when it comes to SLI GPU's? It would seems to me that running in parallel would be quite a bit less restrictive but are you trading restriction for noticeably worse temps?


Whether to go parallel or series is not usually a tradeoff between performance or aesthetics, it's more appropriately a choice on aesthetics alone - whichever looks better to you. Unless you have a problem with a really low flow rate to start with there shouldn't really be much if any noticeable difference in performance either way with series or parallel GPUs.

FWIW, Swiftech published a study and found the differences between running GPUs in series vs parallel is "nominal", and at least in their case they managed to get a tiny fraction of a degree benefit to running GPUs in parallel vs in series.

http://www.swiftech.com/Resources/White_papers/Actual%20influence%20of%20flow%20rate%20on%20system%20temp.pdf *(PDF)*


----------



## DaMadOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> PArallel x serial will not affect your temps. the ek 980 is a surprisingly little restrictive block but using both (just realized you will have 3) in parallel + the cpu block might improve your overall flow on the loop, specially if you are using 4 blocks. If you have room in your case and some pocket left after all this you might consider a second d5 just for redundancy (safety) and silence (since you will be able to run it at lower speeds). But alas that is not a requirement and the d5 will handle your loop specially if you put the gpu blocks in paralell. Your components choice are good ones. However, the alphacool rads are really dirty and blitz is almost a must if you want pastel to work on your loop with ocool rads. Then I ask: why spend less in a rad you need to blitz it when the price of rad+blitz would put you on a range of prices where a much cleaner and well finished rad can be brought? Just mine two cents mate. Personally I would go with EK, XSPC or HWlabs rads. I like the offer from Mayhems but I think there is room to improve on the next generation of Havoc since the quad pass is a bit restrictive. But here is a ton of info for you to digest:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/
> 
> you can even pick those rads with less restriction to help your d5 get the job done at lower speed and accordingly less noise.
> 
> About tubing not sure but Mayhems was launching a new tube which sounded good to my ears. Not sure is out yet.
> All of this is just mine opinion


Another thing that keeps point me back at those Alphacool rads (should have mentioned in previous post) is the thickness. There is not a lot of options in the 45mm thickness range. I'll be operating in confined space and while I can put up to a 60mm in the front. 45mm is about as thick as I can go up top. I don't want to cramp it anymore than I already have to so sticking with two 45mm-ish rads is my max.

I really wish the new Black Ice Nemesis L-series Xtreme's were not 54mm thick!!









My choice is really between Swiftech Extreme and Alphacool. The Swiftechs have been bashed to hell and back on new egg over the crap paint they use, so I think I'm just going to have to deal with cleaning the Alphacools out.

Still undecided on serial/parallel for the GPU's though. I've read mixed things. What I have seen said by people who are actually running them is that serial for 3 way sli is more favorable with a single pump since parallel with basically only give each GPU 1/3 the flow and does tend to produce higher temps than serial but only by a few degrees. BUT if running dual pumps with ridiculous flow to begin with parallel showed slightly better and more even temps. So maybe I should just go serial now and then when I inevitably order another d5 for redundancy down the road I'll order a parallel block and do some tests, chart some data and see how it goes.. plus I bet you guys like charts


----------



## Mayhem

The tubing landed last week and were testing it all when we find some time. Time is something we don't have much off right now so it will be a slow process.





On the left is Primochill Advance LRT
On The right is Mayhems New tubing were working on.

As you can see we've now managed to get the bend radius close to primochills.


----------



## 1Quickchic

Hy guys I just got my loop finished and we'll, from some reading on this thread I am going to end up having to flush my loop excuse I have alphacool rads, but also I wanted to try the Aurora ring tail gold/purple and we'll it's not working out because not the exact color I wanted and I probably have to much going on with my loop but that's fine I kinda read about it before so I knew what I was getting into. Now as far as a replacement Coolant I am going to replace the Aurora with pastel purple raspberry, but something I haven't found the answer to yet is. I want to make it uv reactive, and I really want to keep the purple appearance so I am wondering or asking those of experience what's my best way at going about this? My loop takes almost 2 litre to fill if that helps. Btw for the time I ran the Aurora I loved the way it moved.


----------



## DeviousAddict

@Mayhem
Your tubing looks a bit clearer than Primochill's or is that because of the blue tint (im looking on a pants work monitor so hard to tell)


----------



## Mayhem

It is clearer how ever our has a slight red / blue tint. The blue is the light catching it at the right angle.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The tubing landed last week and were testing it all when we find some time. Time is something we don't have much off right now so it will be a slow process.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the left is Primochill Advance LRT
> On The right is Mayhems New tubing were working on.
> 
> As you can see we've now managed to get the bend radius close to primochills.


progress!


----------



## Vintage

Anyone know the difference with the Black Ice L-series from the other nemesis rads? They are not even listed on HWL's website and ppc's just says they have the "same DNA."

@Damadone I think the XSPC AX series is also around the 40-45mm range IIRC. May be another option to consider but I think they are higher FPI that AC rads


----------



## 1Quickchic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vintage*
> 
> Anyone know the difference with the Black Ice L-series from the other nemesis rads? They are not even listed on HWL's website and ppc's just says they have the "same DNA."
> 
> @Damadone I think the XSPC AX series is also around the 40-45mm range IIRC. May be another option to consider but I think they are higher FPI that AC rads


I believe the difference is the fins per inch, but not 100% on that


----------



## VSG

Not sure why this is in here, but those are their Lite models for OEM and system builders. The finish is not the same as the powdercoated ones on the retail (except in Eu) and is a bit more of a budget line.

Edit: There are other differences aside from finish, the GT and GTX are still going to outperform the LS and LX rads.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Okay, so here's my list of parts so far.
> 
> The CPU block is already bought, as is the pump top and pump casing mod.
> 
> There are no fittings or tubing in the list as of yet. That's a later purchase.
> 
> Let me know if there's something that I need to change or am forgetting entirely.
> 
> CPU: Heatkiller 3.0 (already purchased)
> GPU 1: EK FC980 Copper/Acetal
> GPU 2: EK FC980 Copper/Acetal
> Radiator 1: Black Ice Nemesis 360 GTS
> Radiator 2: Black Ice Nemesis 280 GTS
> Reservoir: Bitspower Z-Multi 300 Brass Edition
> Pump 1: Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Control
> Pump 2: Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Control
> P1 Mod: Bitspower D5/MCP655 Mod Kit (already purchased)
> P2 Mod: Bitspower D5/MCP655 Mod Kit (already purchased)
> Pump Top: Bitspower Dual D5 Mod Top - Acetal (already purchased)
> Fans: (6) Prolima Vortex 120mm fans, (4) Prolima Vortex 140mm fans
> 
> Will these parts (with the appropriate jet plates removed) be considered "Aurora Safe"?


Not to push, but I kinda need an answer on this before I commit to buy today.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Not to push, but I kinda need an answer on this before I commit to buy today.


Try this -
http://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/guides/mayhems-aurora-guide


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Not to push, but I kinda need an answer on this before I commit to buy today.
> 
> 
> 
> Try this -
> http://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/guides/mayhems-aurora-guide
Click to expand...

That... is a very small testing group that completely ignores HardwareLabs and Bitspower and misses out on components made by other major manufacturers. In fact, the only thing it gives any indication on from my list are the CPU and GPU blocks. No information on my choices of radiator, reservoir, pump, or pump top.


----------



## DaMadOne

Not going to quote everyone who gave advice but thanks to all! I bit the bullet this morning and placed my order, it is already in the mail and slated to get here Friday. It is going to be a fun weekend.









I went with a triple series block for the 3 GPUs and I did go with the Alphacool rads since I have seen them in my case and know they work out well in there. I'm going to clean the rads out regardless of if it "looks" like they need it. I will collect the "flush" and post pics of what comes out! I will make it a point to collect data at times with the series sli block and then I'll buy and switch to a parallel block in 8ish months when I goto do my first flush and gather data using it to compare. Can't wait to finally join the custom loop club









*in case anyone didn't figure it out, this is all going into to my Corsair Air 540 and is the "Buzz" build from my sig.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The tubing landed last week and were testing it all when we find some time. Time is something we don't have much off right now so it will be a slow process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the left is Primochill Advance LRT
> On The right is Mayhems New tubing were working on.
> 
> As you can see we've now managed to get the bend radius close to primochills.


The color looks better. Primochills clear tubing looks kind of beige yellow, and yours looks more clear/blue. Good job.


----------



## Ramzinho

is your tube petg based mick? the blue tint makes it feels like it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Could use some of this for the pedestal on JAC


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> That... is a very small testing group that completely ignores HardwareLabs and Bitspower and misses out on components made by other major manufacturers. In fact, the only thing it gives any indication on from my list are the CPU and GPU blocks. No information on my choices of radiator, reservoir, pump, or pump top.


You're welcome.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Don't get me wrong. I'm grateful that you took the time to get me that link, but it just didn't tell me anything I didn't already know.


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Don't get me wrong. I'm grateful that you took the time to get me that link, but it just didn't tell me anything I didn't already know.


Sorry about that, it's all I could find.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Don't get me wrong. I'm grateful that you took the time to get me that link, but it just didn't tell me anything I didn't already know.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about that, it's all I could find.
Click to expand...

That's okay, man. You offered your assistance, which is commendable. It's not your fault that the information didn't help. Kudos for trying!


----------



## midicronica

I had a question, I ordered blitz pro and it'll be here in a couple days but for part 1, for my rad, I don't have anything the cover the holes when I pour in the solution. Lost the plastic caps that came with it. Is it ok to just leave it open ? Or can I do something like tape it shut ?


----------



## 1Quickchic

So no-one knows how to make the pastel purple raspberry ultraviolet purple? or is it not eve a possibility. Don't really want to go off buy 10 litres of coolant and a bunch of dyes to play around with.


----------



## DaMadOne

The color of the Mayhem tube certainly looks better. Can't wait to see the tests done with it. What is the advantage of the "new tube"?

If I have learned anything from super researching water cooling the last few months It is that Mayhem loves, believes and stands by their products even if "Mr. Mayhem" himself may not be the best at dealing with the public*.

*I'm not either.. so I get it


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Okay, so here's my list of parts so far.
> 
> The CPU block is already bought, as is the pump top and pump casing mod.
> 
> There are no fittings or tubing in the list as of yet. That's a later purchase.
> 
> Let me know if there's something that I need to change or am forgetting entirely.
> 
> CPU: Heatkiller 3.0 (already purchased)
> GPU 1: EK FC980 Copper/Acetal
> GPU 2: EK FC980 Copper/Acetal
> Radiator 1: Black Ice Nemesis 360 GTS
> Radiator 2: Black Ice Nemesis 280 GTS
> Reservoir: Bitspower Z-Multi 300 Brass Edition
> Pump 1: Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Control
> Pump 2: Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Control
> P1 Mod: Bitspower D5/MCP655 Mod Kit (already purchased)
> P2 Mod: Bitspower D5/MCP655 Mod Kit (already purchased)
> Pump Top: Bitspower Dual D5 Mod Top - Acetal (already purchased)
> Fans: (6) Prolima Vortex 120mm fans, (4) Prolima Vortex 140mm fans
> 
> Will these parts (with the appropriate jet plates removed) be considered "Aurora Safe"?


It looks good. You did your homework, all looks like it should work fine. It IS a little large, but you only have 2 single row rads, and you have lots of pump power so it should work well enough.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Quickchic*
> 
> So no-one knows how to make the pastel purple raspberry ultraviolet purple? or is it not eve a possibility. Don't really want to go off buy 10 litres of coolant and a bunch of dyes to play around with.


Not really possible. UV dyes don't mix well in terms of UV reactive colour. For instance, to get a purple you mix blue and red, so it would stand to reason that mixing UV invisible blue and UV pink (since UV red doesn't exist), but if you mixed those two you would just get UV invisible blue. They don't really mix, UV blue just overpowers the UV pink.

-Z


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Okay, so here's my list of parts so far.
> 
> The CPU block is already bought, as is the pump top and pump casing mod.
> 
> There are no fittings or tubing in the list as of yet. That's a later purchase.
> 
> Let me know if there's something that I need to change or am forgetting entirely.
> 
> CPU: Heatkiller 3.0 (already purchased)
> GPU 1: EK FC980 Copper/Acetal
> GPU 2: EK FC980 Copper/Acetal
> Radiator 1: Black Ice Nemesis 360 GTS
> Radiator 2: Black Ice Nemesis 280 GTS
> Reservoir: Bitspower Z-Multi 300 Brass Edition
> Pump 1: Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Control
> Pump 2: Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Control
> P1 Mod: Bitspower D5/MCP655 Mod Kit (already purchased)
> P2 Mod: Bitspower D5/MCP655 Mod Kit (already purchased)
> Pump Top: Bitspower Dual D5 Mod Top - Acetal (already purchased)
> Fans: (6) Prolima Vortex 120mm fans, (4) Prolima Vortex 140mm fans
> 
> Will these parts (with the appropriate jet plates removed) be considered "Aurora Safe"?
> 
> 
> 
> It looks good. You did your homework, all looks like it should work fine. It IS a little large, but you only have 2 single row rads, and you have lots of pump power so it should work well enough.
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

Other than fittings, tubing, and coolant, is there anything you think that I might be missing from this setup?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Other than fittings, tubing, and coolant, is there anything you think that I might be missing from this setup?


the only thing to consider is that might happen to have deposits of nanoparticles showing on the reservoir. Bitspower reservoir (the way the tube inserts on the ends) can show deposits even with pastel if you turn the pc off. Ek on the other hand would not show since the thread part is hidden and external to the tube. I am not saying you need to replace the bitspower tube with ek just mentioning so you be aware off and take an informed decision.









*edit - and if memory serves with the particular visual/theme you are after I am sure the bitspower brass reservoir is a much better choice visually. Not sure the same would be possible with ek...*


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Okay, so here's my list of parts so far.
> 
> The CPU block is already bought, as is the pump top and pump casing mod.
> 
> There are no fittings or tubing in the list as of yet. That's a later purchase.
> 
> Let me know if there's something that I need to change or am forgetting entirely.
> 
> CPU: Heatkiller 3.0 (already purchased)
> GPU 1: EK FC980 Copper/Acetal
> GPU 2: EK FC980 Copper/Acetal
> Radiator 1: Black Ice Nemesis 360 GTS
> Radiator 2: Black Ice Nemesis 280 GTS
> Reservoir: Bitspower Z-Multi 300 Brass Edition
> Pump 1: Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Control
> Pump 2: Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Control
> P1 Mod: Bitspower D5/MCP655 Mod Kit (already purchased)
> P2 Mod: Bitspower D5/MCP655 Mod Kit (already purchased)
> Pump Top: Bitspower Dual D5 Mod Top - Acetal (already purchased)
> Fans: (6) Prolima Vortex 120mm fans, (4) Prolima Vortex 140mm fans
> 
> Will these parts (with the appropriate jet plates removed) be considered "Aurora Safe"?
> 
> 
> 
> It looks good. You did your homework, all looks like it should work fine. It IS a little large, but you only have 2 single row rads, and you have lots of pump power so it should work well enough.
> 
> -Z
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Other than fittings, tubing, and coolant, is there anything you think that I might be missing from this setup?
Click to expand...

Well... Short of replacing the radiators with a phase change chiller you're certainly not missing epeen from that build. I don't see anything missing, looks good to me.

-Z


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Okay, so here's my list of parts so far.
> 
> The CPU block is already bought, as is the pump top and pump casing mod.
> 
> There are no fittings or tubing in the list as of yet. That's a later purchase.
> 
> Let me know if there's something that I need to change or am forgetting entirely.
> 
> CPU: Heatkiller 3.0 (already purchased)
> GPU 1: EK FC980 Copper/Acetal
> GPU 2: EK FC980 Copper/Acetal
> Radiator 1: Black Ice Nemesis 360 GTS
> Radiator 2: Black Ice Nemesis 280 GTS
> Reservoir: Bitspower Z-Multi 300 Brass Edition
> Pump 1: Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Control
> Pump 2: Swiftech MCP655 with Speed Control
> P1 Mod: Bitspower D5/MCP655 Mod Kit (already purchased)
> P2 Mod: Bitspower D5/MCP655 Mod Kit (already purchased)
> Pump Top: Bitspower Dual D5 Mod Top - Acetal (already purchased)
> Fans: (6) Prolima Vortex 120mm fans, (4) Prolima Vortex 140mm fans
> 
> Will these parts (with the appropriate jet plates removed) be considered "Aurora Safe"?
> 
> 
> 
> It looks good. You did your homework, all looks like it should work fine. It IS a little large, but you only have 2 single row rads, and you have lots of pump power so it should work well enough.
> 
> -Z
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Other than fittings, tubing, and coolant, is there anything you think that I might be missing from this setup?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well... Short of *replacing the radiators with a phase change chiller* you're certainly not missing epeen from that build. I don't see anything missing, looks good to me.
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

Sweet Jesus don't tempt me...


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Other than fittings, tubing, and coolant, is there anything you think that I might be missing from this setup?
> 
> 
> 
> the only thing to consider is that might happen to have deposits of nanoparticles showing on the reservoir. Bitspower reservoir (the way the tube inserts on the ends) can show deposits even with pastel if you turn the pc off. Ek on the other hand would not show since the thread part is hidden and external to the tube. I am not saying you need to replace the bitspower tube with ek just mentioning so you be aware off and take an informed decision.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit - and if memory serves with the particular visual/theme you are after I am sure the bitspower brass reservoir is a much better choice visually. Not sure the same would be possible with ek...*
Click to expand...

Yeah, that reservoir along with the Bitspower Bronze Age fittings (which I sadly cannot get stateside) is what set me down this particular design path.

That's also why, when ordering the rads, I specified the Primer coated ones. Now to decide if I want to paint them copper, shiny brass, or burnished brass...

Additionally, the Bitspower res seems like it would be easier to mount externally than the EK varieties.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Yeah, that reservoir along with the Bitspower Bronze Age fittings (which I sadly cannot get stateside) is what set me down this particular design path.
> 
> That's also why, when ordering the rads, I specified the Primer coated ones. Now to decide if I want to paint them copper, shiny brass, or burnished brass...
> 
> Additionally, the Bitspower res seems like it would be easier to mount externally than the EK varieties.


highflow have some:

http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/bitspower-g1-4-bronze-age-1-2-fitting-stubby-bp-bawp-c14.html?sl=EN

good shop, fast and cheap shipping and euro x dolar conversion kind off to your favor.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Yeah, that reservoir along with the Bitspower Bronze Age fittings (which I sadly cannot get stateside) is what set me down this particular design path.
> 
> That's also why, when ordering the rads, I specified the Primer coated ones. Now to decide if I want to paint them copper, shiny brass, or burnished brass...
> 
> Additionally, the Bitspower res seems like it would be easier to mount externally than the EK varieties.
> 
> 
> 
> highflow have some:
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/fittingen/bitspower/bitspower-g1-4-bronze-age-1-2-fitting-stubby-bp-bawp-c14.html?sl=EN
> 
> good shop, fast and cheap shipping and euro x dolar conversion kind off to your favor.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that.

The only potential issue is that I have no idea which ones to get (still need to plan out the actual route) or whether or not they would be suited for hard acrylic tubing.


----------



## Mayhem

over at mayhems weve modded a ThermalTake Riing 12 (120mm) into a tri colour Red, Blue, Purple. Using 2 x 3mm Red / Blue Leds


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Oooh, pretty!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> over at mayhems weve modded a ThermalTake Riing 12 (120mm) into a tri colour Red, Blue, Purple. Using 2 x 3mm Red / Blue Leds


Would look great to accent a UV build


----------



## MegaTheJohny

hey guys.. I am planing to get EK-Ekoolant Pastel RED (concentrate 250mL) - produced by Mayhems.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/water-additives-coolants/ek-ekoolant-pastel-red-concentrate-250ml.html

Is this coolant good ? Or do you suggest something else? Thanks


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Okay, let me get this straight... you come into a club dedicated to users of Mayhems coolants, where ostensibly speaking, everyone here likes it, and you ask if a Mayhems coolant is any good?

It's kinda like walking into a Genius Bar and asking if a Mac is a good computer.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Okay, let me get this straight... you come into a club dedicated to users of Mayhems coolants, where ostensibly speaking, everyone here likes it, and you ask if a Mayhems coolant is any good?
> 
> It's kinda like walking into a Genius Bar and asking if a Mac is a good computer.


hahahahaha ... i love it ..... Rep ...


----------



## MegaTheJohny

well I apologise, I am new to watrercooling and I didn't mean that way.. I knew mayham is good coolant,but I just want to get some suggestion/confirmation for this particular model


----------



## TheMadProfessor

No apology is necessary. I was just having some fun.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> well I apologise, I am new to watrercooling and I didn't mean that way.. I knew mayham is good coolant,but I just want to get some suggestion/confirmation for this particular model


To answer your question, since nobody has... yes, that coolant will work just fine. Make sure you clean out your rads properly and if you have Alphacool rads, you will need to use the Mayhems Blitz Kit on them.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## MegaTheJohny

ok thanks, I have Ek rads and I flushed them with water/destiled water.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Okay here's an oddball question... In order to prevent settling of the Aurora nanoparticles, is it feasible and/or wise to use a second, smaller PSU to power the loop and fans (and possibly the lights as well)?

If so, it would not only allow for constant Aurora circulation, but also a "showcase" mode to show off the pretties without powering up the entire system.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Does anyone have an easy way to clean GPU blocks without taking them apart? I've been running pastel and I tore down my loop to inspect every thing. I have a way to hook up my blocks and radiators to a faucet and running hot water at full blast didn't seem to remove the pastel from my GPU blocks. Here are some pretty poor pictures of the areas on both blocks..


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Does anyone have an easy way to clean GPU blocks without taking them apart? I've been running pastel and I tore down my loop to inspect every thing. I have a way to hook up my blocks and radiators to a faucet and running hot water at full blast didn't seem to remove the pastel from my GPU blocks. Here are some pretty poor pictures of the areas on both blocks..


When I cleaned my 3 radiators, I used a 1:4 ratio of white distilled vinegar(1cup) and Distilled water (4cups). Cleaned them very well. You could try that.


----------



## Jakusonfire

If you want proper results you have to do it properly. The sections inside the main oring but not part of the water channels will always trap material and flushing won't remove it.

Blocks are simple to take apart, clean and put back together and when you do they look brand new again if you do it right.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Does anyone have an easy way to clean GPU blocks without taking them apart? I've been running pastel and I tore down my loop to inspect every thing. I have a way to hook up my blocks and radiators to a faucet and running hot water at full blast didn't seem to remove the pastel from my GPU blocks. Here are some pretty poor pictures of the areas on both blocks..


be careful about running the faucet at full blast, you may damage your radiators. If the vinegar/distilled method doesnt work get a blitz kit, it will work great.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

OK, thanks. I was just curious if there was an easier way, but I'll take apart the blocks this weekend and clean them since it wouldn't take that long to do.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Does anyone have an easy way to clean GPU blocks without taking them apart? I've been running pastel and I tore down my loop to inspect every thing. I have a way to hook up my blocks and radiators to a faucet and running hot water at full blast didn't seem to remove the pastel from my GPU blocks. Here are some pretty poor pictures of the areas on both blocks..
> 
> 
> 
> When I cleaned my 3 radiators, I used a *1:4 ratio of white distilled vinegar*(1cup) and Distilled water (4cups). Cleaned them very well. You could try that.
Click to expand...

*WOULD NOT RECOMMEND.* The nickle plating on watercooling blocks is only a dozen microns thick, give or take a few. It's also VERY porous, relatively speaking of course. Acetic acid may strip the nickle plating. (Acetic acid is the acid in vinegar, and it's extremely potent.)

-Z


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> *WOULD NOT RECOMMEND.* The nickle plating on watercooling blocks is only a dozen microns thick, give or take a few. It's also VERY porous, relatively speaking of course. Acetic acid may strip the nickle plating. (Acetic acid is the acid in vinegar, and it's extremely potent.)
> 
> -Z


I don't know too much, do all blocks have nickel? When I owner GPU blocks, I had copper/acetal. It all depends on the block and material. Even if there was nickel, I don't see how a 1:4 ratio would strip it. Meaning that even 10-30 minutes of heaving shaking would be enough. When I did my rads, I only left the solution in there from an hour. Then I rinsed them multiple times with distilled water.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> *WOULD NOT RECOMMEND.* The nickle plating on watercooling blocks is only a dozen microns thick, give or take a few. It's also VERY porous, relatively speaking of course. Acetic acid may strip the nickle plating. (Acetic acid is the acid in vinegar, and it's extremely potent.)
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know too much, *do all blocks have nickel?* When I owner GPU blocks, I had copper/acetal. It all depends on the block and material. Even if there was nickel, I don't see how a 1:4 ratio would strip it. Meaning that even 10-30 minutes of heaving shaking would be enough. When I did my rads, I only left the solution in there from an hour. Then I rinsed them multiple times with distilled water.
Click to expand...

Judging from his picture that's a nickle plated block. Vinegar works fine in rads, but rads are just copper/brass and solder. You underestimate just how thin that plating is. It's around 15 microns. That's .015mm. A small scratch could expose the underlaying copper. It's also very porous. Do not use acids to clean nickle plated products. It works fine with copper products. What's actually happening when you use acids to clean is it's stripping the surface of the metal. For example, when you use acetic acid to clean a copper block, it forms Cupric acetate, which is dissolved into the water and thus leaves bare copper. Nickle will form Nickel(II) acetate. Again, it only needs to strip .015mm of nickle before the copper is exposed. Once the copper is exposed the nickle plating can/will flake off.

-Z


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Judging from his picture that's a nickle plated block. Vinegar works fine in rads, but rads are just copper/brass and solder. You underestimate just how thin that plating is. It's around 15 microns. That's .015mm. A small scratch could expose the underlaying copper. It's also very porous. Do not use acids to clean nickle plated products. It works fine with copper products. What's actually happening when you use acids to clean is it's stripping the surface of the metal. For example, when you use acetic acid to clean a copper block, it forms Cupric acetate, which is dissolved into the water and thus leaves bare copper. Nickle will form Nickel(II) acetate. Again, it only needs to strip .015mm of nickle before the copper is exposed. Once the copper is exposed the nickle plating can/will flake off.
> 
> -Z


ZytheEKS is correct. Not to mention the fact that the OP was trying to find a way without dissembling the block. Well, that means the orings and acrylic parts would be there too during this suggested vinegar diluted treatment. That is just a bad idea and bad suggestion. Open the block and cleaned properly. The same goes for the suggestion of using the Blitz. He is not talking about rads folks. Blitz part I should not be used besides on rads. And Blitz Part II would not be effective cleaning something that is out of the way of the water path.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Does anyone have an easy way to clean GPU blocks without taking them apart? I've been running pastel and I tore down my loop to inspect every thing. I have a way to hook up my blocks and radiators to a faucet and running hot water at full blast didn't seem to remove the pastel from my GPU blocks. Here are some pretty poor pictures of the areas on both blocks..


Best way is to strip and clean otherwise you risk damaging the plating with any acid type cleaner. Just cleaned all ours, all i can advise is when trying to put her back together is lube her up ... with some water based / PH stable lube .....







Makes life 1000x easier.







. You can use Blitz basic but it doesn't get into all the nooks and cranny's like a good strip down.



Some thing im working on for a mayhems Display at our local bank ->


----------



## DeviousAddict

@Mayhem Is that the Thermaltake core X9 case?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousAddict*
> 
> @Mayhem Is that the Thermaltake core X9 case?


Yes it is.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> hey guys.. I am planing to get EK-Ekoolant Pastel RED (concentrate 250mL) - produced by Mayhems.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/water-additives-coolants/ek-ekoolant-pastel-red-concentrate-250ml.html
> 
> Is this coolant good ? Or do you suggest something else? Thanks


In a big fan of it









It has all the additives you need (biocides and anti-corrosive) already in it. It has an in system life of 2-3 years, tho it is recommended to drain, filter thru coffee filter, and put back in system yearly.

One of my machines has had it running almost 2yr straight now and it looks and runs like day 1


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Okay here's an oddball question... In order to prevent settling of the Aurora nanoparticles, is it feasible and/or wise to use a second, smaller PSU to power the loop and fans (and possibly the lights as well)?
> 
> If so, it would not only allow for constant Aurora circulation, but also a "showcase" mode to show off the pretties without powering up the entire system.


Your "showcase" mode is quite easily achieved using just a SPDT relay and a toggle switch.
You can follow my development and implementation of the idea here


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Okay here's an oddball question... In order to prevent settling of the Aurora nanoparticles, is it feasible and/or wise to use a second, smaller PSU to power the loop and fans (and possibly the lights as well)?
> 
> If so, it would not only allow for constant Aurora circulation, but also a "showcase" mode to show off the pretties without powering up the entire system.


You can, but I'm doubtful it would increase the life span of Aurora. When particles "fall out of suspension" it means they are caught in an area where they can not escape, whether from confinement or low flow. Areas like O-ring seals on higher pressure areas (injection plates), but perhaps more prominently the end chambers in the radiators. The tubes in a rad do not seat flush with the end chambers, they protrude into the end chamber. These protrusions great areas of no flow where particles can get stuck. This is why it's recommended to use single row rads, they have less end chambers and due to less channels they also have higher coolant velocities through the tubes, higher velocity means higher turbulence. Turning off your rig for a few days likely isn't going to trap many particles.

Aurora after 5 weeks of the system being off:



So yeah, you /could/ do that, but it would be a vanity project and wouldn't have much of an impact on aurora lifespan.

-Z


----------



## BaDaBOOM

Anybody know what size threads are used on the *Mayhems Havoc 240 mm Radiator* ??

Cheers


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaDaBOOM*
> 
> Anybody know what size threads are used on the *Mayhems Havoc 240 mm Radiator* ??
> 
> Cheers


6/32 UNC


----------



## Detoxification

EK Supremacy EVO
Primochill Rigid Revolver Fittings
Bitspower Quick Disconnect
13mm PETG Tubing
Swiftech 240mm Rad
Mayhems Pastel UV Lime Yellow

Day 1






Day 3






Day 4





/// Follow me on your favorite Social Media \\\
Facebook = https://www.facebook.com/HardwareDomain
Twitter = https://twitter.com/Hardware_Domain
Instagram = https://instagram.com/hardware_domain/


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Best way is to strip and clean otherwise you risk damaging the plating with any acid type cleaner. Just cleaned all ours, all i can advise is when trying to put her back together is lube her up ... with some water based / PH stable lube .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes life 1000x easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . You can use Blitz basic but it doesn't get into all the nooks and cranny's like a good strip down.
> 
> 
> 
> Some thing im working on for a mayhems Display at our local bank ->


Next time you try and tell me you have no jelly, I'm coming over anyway


----------



## DaMadOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Best way is to strip and clean otherwise you risk damaging the plating with any acid type cleaner. Just cleaned all ours, all i can advise is when trying to put her back together is lube her up ... with some water based / PH stable lube .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes life 1000x easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . You can use Blitz basic but it doesn't get into all the nooks and cranny's like a good strip down.


I just got my first loop operational this morning with Pastel Sunset Yellow, I'm going to have to clean it one day so I'm just taking notes









What is the jelly for? just lubing the seals?

Also glad I caught the convo about vinegar and nickel being a NO NO seeing as all of my blocks are nickel. So what is the best way to clean them? Just water and some elbow grease with a soft toothbrush?

EDIT* Figured I should include a pic. Waiting to borrow a buddies DSLR in the next few days to do a "photo shoot". The potato phone pics I've taken hardly do it justice. I really need to invest in a decent camera.


----------



## USMC Modder

Just mixed up some pastel white with some blue dye to get the color for my loop. I'll get it filled after I'm done leak testing it. More pics in my build log if you want to check it out.

* * Build Log: Project Frostbyte - an X99 Parvum build * *


----------



## DaMadOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Just mixed up some pastel white with some blue dye to get the color for my loop. I'll get it filled after I'm done leak testing it. More pics in my build log if you want to check it out.
> 
> * * Build Log: Project Frostbyte - an X99 Parvum build * *
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it. Can't wait to see it all done up. One ? though.. why all the fittings instead of bends? Personal preference? Obviously time=$$ but still.. fittings add up quick.


----------



## USMC Modder

Personal preference. I like straight lines and fittings over bends. Though I commend anyone who can pull off bends with straight lines.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaMadOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Best way is to strip and clean otherwise you risk damaging the plating with any acid type cleaner. Just cleaned all ours, all i can advise is when trying to put her back together is lube her up ... with some water based / PH stable lube .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes life 1000x easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . You can use Blitz basic but it doesn't get into all the nooks and cranny's like a good strip down.
> 
> 
> 
> I just got my first loop operational this morning with Pastel Sunset Yellow, I'm going to have to clean it one day so I'm just taking notes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is the jelly for? just lubing the seals?
> 
> Also glad I caught the convo about vinegar and nickel being a NO NO seeing as all of my blocks are nickel. So what is the best way to clean them? Just water and some elbow grease with a soft toothbrush?
> 
> EDIT* Figured I should include a pic. Waiting to borrow a buddies DSLR in the next few days to do a "photo shoot". The potato phone pics I've taken hardly do it justice. I really need to invest in a decent camera.
Click to expand...

Jelly goes on the Oring, which typically falls off during disassembly. O rings can be a major PITA to re-align on VGA waterblocks. Best way to clean blocks is a soft bristle brush, elbow greese and dish soap if there's some grime. Ketchup is also good if there's a bit if tarnish. (yes ketchup as in the condiment)

-Z


----------



## wolsty7

Man I love pastel


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Just mixed up some pastel white with some blue dye to get the color for my loop. I'll get it filled after I'm done leak testing it. More pics in my build log if you want to check it out.
> 
> * * Build Log: Project Frostbyte - an X99 Parvum build * *


Coming along nicely. I'd recommend some backplates for the GPUs tho


----------



## pompss

Seems the primochill rigid tubing and pastel in contact we the sun light it's causing some yellowing and some black stuff which i think its mold.
I dont know for sure what its causing the yellowing but pretty much i think its some chemical reaction between the tubing , the pastel and the sun.




I bought mayhem blitz pro to clean my system and be sure the ph its correct and try again as soon mayhem sent me replacement liquid but before i need to know if somebody else have problem with primochill rigit tubing and pastel in contact with the sunlight.
I really dont want this thing happen again.


----------



## IT Diva

Might just be flux residue from the rads you haven't blitzed yet


----------



## pompss

i make the test putting mayhem red pastel in plastic bottle and direct sun light contact as suggested here in the forum.
Thats the result.



I dont know if the liquid its defective but pastel with sun light its causing this with my rigit primochill tubing and the water plastic bottle.
i cannot use any pastel in my build right now. the only solution its to replace my clear side windows with a new side panel from case labs to avoid sunlight contact with the liquid which i will not do it since its gonna cost me 100 dollars and i like the my side panel window.
As much i love pastel i dont see a solution to this problem.
Hope Mick will help me out fix this.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaMadOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Best way is to strip and clean otherwise you risk damaging the plating with any acid type cleaner. Just cleaned all ours, all i can advise is when trying to put her back together is lube her up ... with some water based / PH stable lube .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes life 1000x easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . You can use Blitz basic but it doesn't get into all the nooks and cranny's like a good strip down.
> 
> 
> 
> I just got my first loop operational this morning with Pastel Sunset Yellow, I'm going to have to clean it one day so I'm just taking notes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is the jelly for? just lubing the seals?
> 
> Also glad I caught the convo about vinegar and nickel being a NO NO seeing as all of my blocks are nickel. So what is the best way to clean them? Just water and some elbow grease with a soft toothbrush?
> 
> EDIT* Figured I should include a pic. Waiting to borrow a buddies DSLR in the next few days to do a "photo shoot". The potato phone pics I've taken hardly do it justice. I really need to invest in a decent camera.
Click to expand...

Yup the jelly is to help slip the o'rings into place with out them coming out and also helps make a good seal.


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel needs to be kept moving also you need to clean your system properly if your PH is out of wack pastel goes to **** its that simple. Always has been like from day one.


----------



## pompss

My Pastel ph was 7.0 to 7.1.It's that too high for pastel ??
Also i bought bltiz pro and i im cleaning all the rads. After i will use part 2 to clean the loop.And see if the issue happen again.

Sunlight shouldnt cause this right ? sun light can alterate the ph of the coolant ?


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Coming along nicely. I'd recommend some backplates for the GPUs tho


I have two coldzero ones on the way.


----------



## emsj86

Is it on to use use bi get and distilled. Meaning if I drain my loop and than run distilled and vinegar. Than usb several times with just distilled than add pastel. Or is it not ok to run it through the pump it will it mess up the pastel


----------



## emsj86

Slightly off topic but it's dealing with mayhems pastel blue berry. For pure looks alone for an I bridge on my build here. Should I go pushed plexi bridge between the soon to be two cards or black bridge. Thanks.


----------



## naved777

Some basic questions on Mayhems Pastel :
how many liters of water can i add in 250ml of concentrated Pastel without loosing its solid look ?
is it ok to use killcoil in pastel loop?
If not killcoil will i need to add biocides in the pastel loop or does mayhems include biocide in pastel by default ?
how many months will a pastel loop last ?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *naved777*
> 
> Some basic questions on Mayhems Pastel :
> how many liters of water can i add in 250ml of concentrated Pastel without loosing its solid look ?
> is it ok to use killcoil in pastel loop?
> If not killcoil will i need to add biocides in the pastel loop or does mayhems include biocide in pastel by default ?
> how many months will a pastel loop last ?


1: Mix pastel with water as directed. It should be on the website you buy from, and on the bottle itself. Do not overdilute it. (maybe a 50ml-100ml of dilution is okay, but follow the directions to the dot to the best of your abilities)

2: You /can/ use a kill coil, but not necessary in any way shape or form so it'll just be another metal in the loop.

3: Pastel has all the biocides, corrosion inhibitors, and surfactants you'll need.

4: Pastel can be used around two to three years before it needs to be replaced. It's advised to run it through a coffee filter every time you drain your loop, as to remove any debris/dust/contaminants that may have gotten in during the drain.

-Z


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

So I saw the new non stain dyes in the store this morning and now I'm a sad panda because I just ordered a set of dyes last week. So my I'm wondering if its worth it to spend another $40 on another set? I'm using rigid tubing (going to try my hand at copper first if not some acrylic) and pastel as a base coolant. Thoughts?


----------



## pompss

After using blitz part 1 and flushed the rads i got water coming out with a ph of 6.40 from xspc ax360 and 6.40ph with another xspc 360

Its the ph ok or i need to flush it with some bicarb to ge the ph to 7?


----------



## LandonAaron

Can you use the Blitz kit on the whole system. Blocks, pumps etc. I want to clean my loop with something, but I dont' want to have to disassemble and clean each part individually.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Can you use the Blitz kit on the whole system. Blocks, pumps etc. I want to clean my loop with something, but I dont' want to have to disassemble and clean each part individually.


Rads need to be unmounted since blitz part 1 its a strong acid and will damage you waterblocks and fittings.
The part 2 you can use for clean your loop and rads without dissamble the whole system but i dont know how effective this will clean your rads.
the best why to clean you rads its with part 1 but you have to remove the rads


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Okay here's an oddball question... In order to prevent settling of the Aurora nanoparticles, is it feasible and/or wise to use a second, smaller PSU to power the loop and fans (and possibly the lights as well)?
> 
> If so, it would not only allow for constant Aurora circulation, but also a "showcase" mode to show off the pretties without powering up the entire system.
> 
> 
> 
> Your "showcase" mode is quite easily achieved using just a SPDT relay and a toggle switch.
> You can follow my development and implementation of the idea here
Click to expand...

I hit upon an alternate solution.

I bought a 12V relay with two NO and two NC contacts.

Wire the relay coil to a 12V line on the main PSU and another 12V line to a NO contact.

Wire the aux power's (the smaller one) 12V line to the NC contact.

Make sure the aux PSU is properly jumped so it will run without being plugged into a motherboard.

Aux power is on all the time, but the activation of power of the main PSU will trip the coil, closing the NO contact and opening the NC contact, thereby cutting 12V power from the aux PSU and letting 12V power flow from the primary PSU.

No switch necessary.


----------



## naved777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 1: Mix pastel with water as directed. It should be on the website you buy from, and on the bottle itself. Do not overdilute it. (maybe a 50ml-100ml of dilution is okay, but follow the directions to the dot to the best of your abilities)
> 
> 2: You /can/ use a kill coil, but not necessary in any way shape or form so it'll just be another metal in the loop.
> 
> 3: Pastel has all the biocides, corrosion inhibitors, and surfactants you'll need.
> 
> 4: Pastel can be used around two to three years before it needs to be replaced. It's advised to run it through a coffee filter every time you drain your loop, as to remove any debris/dust/contaminants that may have gotten in during the drain.
> 
> -Z


Thank You Z


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Okay here's an oddball question... In order to prevent settling of the Aurora nanoparticles, is it feasible and/or wise to use a second, smaller PSU to power the loop and fans (and possibly the lights as well)?
> 
> If so, it would not only allow for constant Aurora circulation, but also a "showcase" mode to show off the pretties without powering up the entire system.
> 
> 
> 
> Your "showcase" mode is quite easily achieved using just a SPDT relay and a toggle switch.
> You can follow my development and implementation of the idea here
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I hit upon an alternate solution.
> 
> I bought a 12V relay with two NO and two NC contacts.
> 
> Wire the relay coil to a 12V line on the main PSU and another 12V line to a NO contact.
> 
> Wire the aux power's (the smaller one) 12V line to the NC contact.
> 
> Make sure the aux PSU is properly jumped so it will run without being plugged into a motherboard.
> 
> Aux power is on all the time, but the activation of power of the main PSU will trip the coil, closing the NO contact and opening the NC contact, thereby cutting 12V power from the aux PSU and letting 12V power flow from the primary PSU.
> 
> No switch necessary.
Click to expand...

It might be easier to just run the "jumper" leads into a switch. The switch would just allow current from the jumper line. Easy manual on/off switch without having to use all those extra parts.

-Z


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Okay here's an oddball question... In order to prevent settling of the Aurora nanoparticles, is it feasible and/or wise to use a second, smaller PSU to power the loop and fans (and possibly the lights as well)?
> 
> If so, it would not only allow for constant Aurora circulation, but also a "showcase" mode to show off the pretties without powering up the entire system.
> 
> 
> 
> Your "showcase" mode is quite easily achieved using just a SPDT relay and a toggle switch.
> You can follow my development and implementation of the idea here
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I hit upon an alternate solution.
> 
> I bought a 12V relay with two NO and two NC contacts.
> 
> Wire the relay coil to a 12V line on the main PSU and another 12V line to a NO contact.
> 
> Wire the aux power's (the smaller one) 12V line to the NC contact.
> 
> Make sure the aux PSU is properly jumped so it will run without being plugged into a motherboard.
> 
> Aux power is on all the time, but the activation of power of the main PSU will trip the coil, closing the NO contact and opening the NC contact, thereby cutting 12V power from the aux PSU and letting 12V power flow from the primary PSU.
> 
> No switch necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It might be easier to just run the "jumper" leads into a switch. The switch would just allow current from the jumper line. Easy manual on/off switch without having to use all those extra parts.
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

Well, the point is to have an interconnect so that if the Main PSU is off (like in a shut down), the Aux PSU will deliver the power. If the Main PSU comes on, power will be interrupted to the Aux PSU and the Main PSU will take over. This will basically eliminate the need for a switch at all. (Source: I work in electrical engineering as a designer)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Well, the point is to have an interconnect so that if the Main PSU is off (like in a shut down), the Aux PSU will deliver the power. If the Main PSU comes on, power will be interrupted to the Aux PSU and the Main PSU will take over. This will basically eliminate the need for a switch at all. (Source: I work in electrical engineering as a designer)


Fair enough. Either way the liquid cooling stuff will always be running. Just figured it might be an easier solution.

-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Well, the point is to have an interconnect so that if the Main PSU is off (like in a shut down), the Aux PSU will deliver the power. If the Main PSU comes on, power will be interrupted to the Aux PSU and the Main PSU will take over. This will basically eliminate the need for a switch at all. (Source: I work in electrical engineering as a designer)


I don't really understand the reason why you want to do this? Is it that bad for your loop to be off when your system is off? Why not just run the loop on the second psu and leave that on?

Unless you are using the relay to actually control the state of the other PSU, it is exactly the same number of manual switch presses to accomplish the same thing, except one way costs more and take longer to setup.

If you wanted to, you could replace the second PSU power switch and supply line with a DPST relay (I think Darlene mentioned this before).

If you are switching between supply lines, if also add in the switching if ground lines or ensuring that the grounds are the same (optoisolator) for safety in the event that the two supplies don't have the same ground levels


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Well, the point is to have an interconnect so that if the Main PSU is off (like in a shut down), the Aux PSU will deliver the power. If the Main PSU comes on, power will be interrupted to the Aux PSU and the Main PSU will take over. This will basically eliminate the need for a switch at all. (Source: I work in electrical engineering as a designer)
> 
> 
> 
> I don't really understand the reason why you want to do this? Is it that bad for your loop to be off when your system is off?
Click to expand...

No, but if I want to show the loop and lights in action, I won't have to power on the entire thing.
Quote:


> Why not just run the loop on the second psu and leave that on?


Because... Actually, I don't have a logical reason why, so I'm going to remind you that my name is THE MAD PROFESSOR.
Quote:


> Unless you are using the relay to actually control the state of the other PSU, it is exactly the same number of manual switch presses to accomplish the same thing, except one way costs more and take longer to setup.
> 
> If you wanted to, you could replace the second PSU power switch and supply line with a DPST relay (I think Darlene mentioned this before).


Actually, my way requires exactly one manual button press to make it happen. Let me quote a PM I sent someone about this very same question:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> The purpose of the auxiliary PSU will strictly be to power the water pumps and lights... basically all the snazzy pretty stuff... while the computer itself is shut down. This way I can show off all the fun and pretty things without actually turning on the computer itself. The auxiliary PSU will not be very powerful. Honestly, 150W would be too much.
> 
> The purpose of the 12V relay is because you want to send power through the system that the equipment you are powering is rated for. It was either 12V, 24V, or 120V. Considering that a PSU puts out 12V, it kind of made narrowing down the search quite easy.
> 
> The idea is that no matter what, so long as wall power is being supplied to the PSUs, the pumps, lights, and fans will always have power to them.
> 
> That is why you have the relay. You wire 12V power from the main PSU (the one that powers the motherboard) to the relay and another 12V relay to the NO (normally open) contact.
> 
> The NO contact is, under typical conditions, open. This means that power does not flow through it.
> 
> The 12V power from the Aux PSU get wired to the NC (normally closed) contact.
> 
> The NC contact is, under typical conditions, closed. This means that power will flow through it because the circuit is closed.
> 
> Now the reason why you run 12V to the coil is because the coil is what determines whether the operation is normal or tripped. If the main PSU is turned on (by pressing the computer's main power button), this will send 12V from that PSU through that coil, which will trip it, opening the NC contact and closing the NO contact. This disengages the active circuit on the NC and engages the circuit on the NO.
> 
> In laymen's terms, this will automatically interrupt the power flow from the Aux PSU and allow the main PSU to deliver power to that circuit.
> 
> When the main PSU is no longer sending power (like in a shutdown), the contacts revert back to their normal state, and power is restored from the Aux PSU.





Quote:


> If you are switching between supply lines, if also add in the switching if ground lines or ensuring that the grounds are the same (optoisolator) for safety in the event that the two supplies don't have the same ground levels


Wait... what?

The PSUs are grounded at the wall.


----------



## DNMock

Been rather busy lately and haven't been able to keep up on things. Saw that the non-staining dye is on shelves now, but what about the 10nm pastel and mayhems tubing? Will be renovating the bedroom in a month or so, which means gotta tear down the build, so might as well replace the tubing and coolant while I'm at it.


----------



## Mayhem

Tubing is being tested, 10nm white is on hold till we figure something out (wont go into detail), as said none stain dye has been released ...

Thats about it lol.


----------



## Mayhem

Been playing ThermalTake Riing 12 (120mm)


----------



## Bertovzki

@Mayhem Nice job looks great


----------



## Nornam

Very Very Nice Mick







... Some great lighting effects you've achieved right there







...

Nam...


----------



## guitarhero23

Welp, Finally got around to flushing out a rad that I bought on ebay that was "open box" but new. XSPC EX360. Used warm distilled+white viegar.

Flush 1:



Would the blue tint be caused by corrosion or because it wasn't really new and someone used blue dye in a loop before.

Flush 3: (Less residue)


Should I keep flushing it w/vinegar+distilled and shaking? Or should I blitz it? The problem is I should leak check my rig before I run a blitz (if I do) but I don't want that crap getting in my other stuff while leak testing.


----------



## emsj86

I was wondering it I'm running mayehms pastel blue and added non stain blue dye wouldn't it still stain. I'm thinking it would over time as isn't blue pastel just white pastel with blue dye added which was before non stain or am I wrong


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Welp, Finally got around to flushing out a rad that I bought on ebay that was "open box" but new. XSPC EX360. Used warm distilled+white viegar.
> 
> Flush 1:
> 
> 
> 
> Would the blue tint be caused by corrosion or because it wasn't really new and someone used blue dye in a loop before.
> 
> Flush 3: (Less residue)
> 
> 
> Should I keep flushing it w/vinegar+distilled and shaking? Or should I blitz it? The problem is I should leak check my rig before I run a blitz (if I do) but I don't want that crap getting in my other stuff while leak testing.


At this point what your doing seems to be doing it's job. I'd keep doing it until it clears up. If after a few times it does not than blitz


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> At this point what your doing seems to be doing it's job. I'd keep doing it until it clears up. If after a few times it does not than blitz


Imagine that cup scaled up to a 5 gallon bucket and that's what a couple phobya rads did to me after using blitz


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Welp, Finally got around to flushing out a rad that I bought on ebay that was "open box" but new. XSPC EX360. Used warm distilled+white viegar.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Flush 1:
> 
> 
> 
> Would the blue tint be caused by corrosion or because it wasn't really new and someone used blue dye in a loop before.
> 
> Flush 3: (Less residue)
> 
> 
> 
> Should I keep flushing it w/vinegar+distilled and shaking? Or should I blitz it? The problem is I should leak check my rig before I run a blitz (if I do) but I don't want that crap getting in my other stuff while leak testing.
> 
> 
> 
> At this point what your doing seems to be doing it's job. I'd keep doing it until it clears up. If after a few times it does not than blitz
Click to expand...

When you clean with an acid it physically strips material from the surface. It does this via chemical reactions. Vinegar is typically 90% water, 8% acetic acid, 2% fermentation byproducts. The important part there is acetic acid.

Cupric Acetate:

Look like a familiar tone of blue?

The acid strips the flux, strips any patina, strips any oxidation, and strips copper. The stripped copper reacts with the acid forming cupric acetate, and some other chemicals. (Too lazy to run the numbers to figure out what's left over after the reaction) The cupric acetate dissolves into the solution, and as such gives it that blue/green colour. XSPCs are pretty clean as it is. A lot of that black stuff might be residue from other radiators, or other components they had in the loop. That's quite a blue tone it's got so I'd bet it's done a pretty good job of cleaning up the inside of that rad judging by how much cupric acetate must be in that solution. I'd flush until it's clean, run a bicarb solution through it (1-2TB of baking soda to 1 liter of (preferably warm/hot) water. This should neutralize anything left inside. After that you're probably set.

I wouldn't recommend running an acid wash on it again after that. So long as they're done right radiators really only NEED one acid wash... ever. The acid wash strips the flux on the surface of the solder joints. The flux is what messes with coolants. After it's gone, it's gone. Any remaining flux is not going to resurface through a solid metal solder joint. Every successive acid wash is just going to strip the patina. The patina is good, it shields the underlying copper from corrosion.

P.S. Sorry for the late reply.

-Z


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Imagine that cup scaled up to a 5 gallon bucket and that's what a couple phobya rads did to me after using blitz


I could not even imagine. The alphacools I've been cleaning with blitz have been pretty clean, I'm not sure I want to encounter a dirty one either. Next round of rads for me will be mayhems anyway


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> When you clean with an acid it physically strips material from the surface. It does this via chemical reactions. Vinegar is typically 90% water, 8% acetic acid, 2% fermentation byproducts. The important part there is acetic acid.
> 
> Cupric Acetate:
> 
> Look like a familiar tone of blue?
> 
> The acid strips the flux, strips any patina, strips any oxidation, and strips copper. The stripped copper reacts with the acid forming cupric acetate, and some other chemicals. (Too lazy to run the numbers to figure out what's left over after the reaction) The cupric acetate dissolves into the solution, and as such gives it that blue/green colour. XSPCs are pretty clean as it is. A lot of that black stuff might be residue from other radiators, or other components they had in the loop. That's quite a blue tone it's got so I'd bet it's done a pretty good job of cleaning up the inside of that rad judging by how much cupric acetate must be in that solution. I'd flush until it's clean, run a bicarb solution through it (1-2TB of baking soda to 1 liter of (preferably warm/hot) water. This should neutralize anything left inside. After that you're probably set.
> 
> I wouldn't recommend running an acid wash on it again after that. So long as they're done right radiators really only NEED one acid wash... ever. The acid wash strips the flux on the surface of the solder joints. The flux is what messes with coolants. After it's gone, it's gone. Any remaining flux is not going to resurface through a solid metal solder joint. Every successive acid wash is just going to strip the patina. The patina is good, it shields the underlying copper from corrosion.
> 
> P.S. Sorry for the late reply.
> 
> -Z


very nice information
I did acetic acid and phosphoric acid bath about 4-5 times to my old xspc rad and everytime i see the water turns into blue its because of reaction or its the stain?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> When you clean with an acid it physically strips material from the surface. It does this via chemical reactions. Vinegar is typically 90% water, 8% acetic acid, 2% fermentation byproducts. The important part there is acetic acid.
> 
> Cupric Acetate:
> 
> Look like a familiar tone of blue?
> 
> The acid strips the flux, strips any patina, strips any oxidation, and strips copper. The stripped copper reacts with the acid forming cupric acetate, and some other chemicals. (Too lazy to run the numbers to figure out what's left over after the reaction) The cupric acetate dissolves into the solution, and as such gives it that blue/green colour. XSPCs are pretty clean as it is. A lot of that black stuff might be residue from other radiators, or other components they had in the loop. That's quite a blue tone it's got so I'd bet it's done a pretty good job of cleaning up the inside of that rad judging by how much cupric acetate must be in that solution. I'd flush until it's clean, run a bicarb solution through it (1-2TB of baking soda to 1 liter of (preferably warm/hot) water. This should neutralize anything left inside. After that you're probably set.
> 
> I wouldn't recommend running an acid wash on it again after that. So long as they're done right radiators really only NEED one acid wash... ever. The acid wash strips the flux on the surface of the solder joints. The flux is what messes with coolants. After it's gone, it's gone. Any remaining flux is not going to resurface through a solid metal solder joint. Every successive acid wash is just going to strip the patina. The patina is good, it shields the underlying copper from corrosion.
> 
> P.S. Sorry for the late reply.
> 
> -Z


Better late than never, I posted this after I was done working on it for the night so I did not go back a flush again. I'll avoid the vinegar from here on out, I had been doing a 1:5 with distilled.

Thanks


----------



## XKaan

Hey all! Quick question..

For my new build I was thinking fo going with the pastel blue, but I'm curious if it's easy to match tones? I'd really like to nail the shade of blue on my motherboard. (pictured below) It's more towards a pastel blue, for sure. Thoughts?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Hey all! Quick question..
> 
> For my new build I was thinking fo going with the pastel blue, but I'm curious if it's easy to match tones? I'd really like to nail the shade of blue on my motherboard. (pictured below) It's more towards a pastel blue, for sure. Thoughts?


Ask @USMC Modder how well he was able to take pastel white + dye and match.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Hey all! Quick question..
> 
> For my new build I was thinking fo going with the pastel blue, but I'm curious if it's easy to match tones? I'd really like to nail the shade of blue on my motherboard. (pictured below) It's more towards a pastel blue, for sure. Thoughts?


Pastel white + ocean blue I think will get you there. Just add dye slowly until you get there


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Hey all! Quick question..
> 
> For my new build I was thinking fo going with the pastel blue, but I'm curious if it's easy to match tones? I'd really like to nail the shade of blue on my motherboard. (pictured below) It's more towards a pastel blue, for sure. Thoughts?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Ask @USMC Modder how well he was able to take pastel white + dye and match.


Yeah, I started with the white pastel and added blue dye to match my Corsair LPX ram and colonial blue sleeving. I didn't start with the berry blue because I didn't know how dark it would be. Took me about 10 drops to get the color I wanted in my test sample.


----------



## XKaan

Thanks guys! Repped!


----------



## timepart

Any way to light up my bay res that is filled with Mayhems Pastel Blueberry. I have 2 5mm LED plugs in there and it does nothing, I am guessing this fluid is just too dense to see light through it.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Thanks guys! Repped!


Any time.


----------



## Ironsmack

What's the best way to make copper using Mayhem's pastel?


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> What's the best way to make copper using Mayhem's pastel?


Been waiting on a similar answer for some time.


----------



## Gabrielzm

When I was finishing "chessboard" I used aurora 2 for a couple of weeks and then switched to pastel. Tried to use Aurora booster on it and finally settle the liquid on just black pastel. With time small pellets of grey/silvery deposits started to show up on the block. Clean it and used blitz part 2 on the loop again. Then made an upgrade on GPUs and after just two days of use the same silvery pellets found their way to the blocks. Decided more drastic measures were necessary and took the whole loop down and flush the rads with water and shake method (they were already blitzed a couple of months ago prior to aurora). I was surprised by the amount of silvery pellets coming out. I am certain those are from the aurora. Blitzed the whole thing again and more silvery gunk coming out. Now is pristine again and I will be staying away from aurora unless the build is specifically planned for that. XSPC rads will gunk up with it. Just sharing an experience here, not complaining or anything folks.






details here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/chessboard-sma8-build/410


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> When you clean with an acid it physically strips material from the surface. It does this via chemical reactions. Vinegar is typically 90% water, 8% acetic acid, 2% fermentation byproducts. The important part there is acetic acid.
> 
> Cupric Acetate:
> 
> Look like a familiar tone of blue?
> 
> The acid strips the flux, strips any patina, strips any oxidation, and strips copper. The stripped copper reacts with the acid forming cupric acetate, and some other chemicals. (Too lazy to run the numbers to figure out what's left over after the reaction) The cupric acetate dissolves into the solution, and as such gives it that blue/green colour. XSPCs are pretty clean as it is. A lot of that black stuff might be residue from other radiators, or other components they had in the loop. That's quite a blue tone it's got so I'd bet it's done a pretty good job of cleaning up the inside of that rad judging by how much cupric acetate must be in that solution. I'd flush until it's clean, run a bicarb solution through it (1-2TB of baking soda to 1 liter of (preferably warm/hot) water. This should neutralize anything left inside. After that you're probably set.
> 
> I wouldn't recommend running an acid wash on it again after that. So long as they're done right radiators really only NEED one acid wash... ever. The acid wash strips the flux on the surface of the solder joints. The flux is what messes with coolants. After it's gone, it's gone. Any remaining flux is not going to resurface through a solid metal solder joint. Every successive acid wash is just going to strip the patina. The patina is good, it shields the underlying copper from corrosion.
> 
> P.S. Sorry for the late reply.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very nice information
> I did acetic acid and phosphoric acid bath about 4-5 times to my old xspc rad and everytime i see the water turns into blue its because of reaction or its the stain?
Click to expand...

It's likely the byproducts. (Cupric acetate and cupric phosphate). I'd imagine phosphoric acid would obliterate any dyes. Anyone want to drop a few drops of blue dye into part 1 before using it on the rad to see how quickly it loses it's colour?









-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> When you clean with an acid it physically strips material from the surface. It does this via chemical reactions. Vinegar is typically 90% water, 8% acetic acid, 2% fermentation byproducts. The important part there is acetic acid.
> 
> Cupric Acetate:
> 
> Look like a familiar tone of blue?
> 
> The acid strips the flux, strips any patina, strips any oxidation, and strips copper. The stripped copper reacts with the acid forming cupric acetate, and some other chemicals. (Too lazy to run the numbers to figure out what's left over after the reaction) The cupric acetate dissolves into the solution, and as such gives it that blue/green colour. XSPCs are pretty clean as it is. A lot of that black stuff might be residue from other radiators, or other components they had in the loop. That's quite a blue tone it's got so I'd bet it's done a pretty good job of cleaning up the inside of that rad judging by how much cupric acetate must be in that solution. I'd flush until it's clean, run a bicarb solution through it (1-2TB of baking soda to 1 liter of (preferably warm/hot) water. This should neutralize anything left inside. After that you're probably set.
> 
> I wouldn't recommend running an acid wash on it again after that. So long as they're done right radiators really only NEED one acid wash... ever. The acid wash strips the flux on the surface of the solder joints. The flux is what messes with coolants. After it's gone, it's gone. Any remaining flux is not going to resurface through a solid metal solder joint. Every successive acid wash is just going to strip the patina. The patina is good, it shields the underlying copper from corrosion.
> 
> P.S. Sorry for the late reply.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better late than never, I posted this after I was done working on it for the night so I did not go back a flush again. I'll avoid the vinegar from here on out, I had been doing a 1:5 with distilled.
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

Mayhaps I wasn't entirely clear. Acetic acid forms cupric acetate. Citric acid will form cupric citrate. Hydrochloric acid will form cupric hydrochloride. Phosphoric acid, blitz part 1's primary ingredient, will form cupric phosphate. If the acid isn't reacting with the metal it isn't doing it's job. Vinegar is fine for *non plated* products. I wouldn't rely on it for rads that are poorly cleaned from the factory though.

-Z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> What's the best way to make copper using Mayhem's pastel?
> 
> 
> 
> Been waiting on a similar answer for some time.
Click to expand...

The short answer is you can't. Copper is a metallic colour. You can't make metallic colours without a metallic coolant. (Think Aurora) You can make colours with the same colour/shade as copper, but it will look very different because it isn't metallic. It will end up as an bright orange/brown. If you want a metallic coolant you're limited to aurora, and if you are going to use aurora you'd best plan your loop around it.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

@ Gabrielzm Aurora contains No metal what so ever, that is crap from your rads







. Aurora cannot create silver pellets and if you don't wish to use a product ever again because of the crap you have in the system id suggest you change your rads then because thats your issue not the aurora.

When you try to blame a product for an issue its normally best you blame the correct products first. This is not a rant but a Get you facts correct first







.

Once again "There is "*NO*" metal in Aurora......."

So what you should now do is head over to the Rad maker and go complain to them about your issue.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @ Gabrielzm Aurora contains No metal what so ever, that is crap from your rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Aurora cannot create silver pellets and if you don't wish to use a product ever again because of the crap you have in the system id suggest you change your rads then because thats your issue not the aurora.
> 
> When you try to blame a product for an issue its normally best you blame the correct products first. This is not a rant but a Get you facts correct first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Once again "There is "*NO*" metal in Aurora......."
> 
> So what you should now do is head over to the Rad maker and go complain to them about your issue.


Let's hope he's not using Havok rads, lol . . .









Running for cover,.

darlene


----------



## Mayhem

If he was id go mad ... lol


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If he was id go mad ... lol


Excuse me... *I'M* the mad one here. It even says so in my username.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Excuse me... *I'M* the mad one here. It even says so in my username.


^ This man tells the truth


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Excuse me... *I'M* the mad one here. It even says so in my username.
> 
> 
> 
> ^ This man tells the truth
Click to expand...

Just wait until I get going on that big build of mine... actually, it's four separate builds, but whatever.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Just wait until I get going on that big build of mine... actually, it's four separate builds, but whatever.


WTH?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If he was id go mad ... lol
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse me... *I'M* the mad one here. It even says so in my username.
Click to expand...

Here's a Mad Professor I wouldn't mind taking some courses from:


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here's a Mad Professor I wouldn't mind taking some courses from:


i am an engineer and the most disturbing subject to me was mathematics.. darn it i hated differentiation and integration. was nightmare to deal with... no brainer i ended up being a construction engineer not electrical one


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Been waiting on a similar answer for some time.


Damn. I was hoping someone already figured it out.

@Mayhem - any insights on how to make copper color with your pastel/dye?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @ Gabrielzm Aurora contains No metal what so ever, that is crap from your rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Aurora cannot create silver pellets and if you don't wish to use a product ever again because of the crap you have in the system id suggest you change your rads then because thats your issue not the aurora.
> 
> When you try to blame a product for an issue its normally best you blame the correct products first. This is not a rant but a Get you facts correct first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Once again "There is "*NO*" metal in Aurora......."
> 
> So what you should now do is head over to the Rad maker and go complain to them about your issue.


Mick I was not complaining mate, just sharing my findings. It is not metal. I said (or at least I meant to) it looks like in *color* a silvery thing which to me is just like the particles in aurora booster silver I used. BTW those rads were cleaned before put to use using the full blitz treatment. The pellets don't feel like metal either they feel more like rubber and change shape if you squeeze them (*squishy* is the word here). Do you still think they are flux from rads? I might be wrong of course and I am not here to create polemics mate. I am a fan of Mayhems products was just saying will not use aurora on a system not designed for it (read what I wrote carefully).

edit - BTW I was warned by Zy that the rads could get aurora particles before I put to use since they are dual pass and it seems to me they did... So in no way I came here blaming or pointing fingers to Mayhems or demanding anything. My intention was to warn others to pay attention to the plan/choice of components compatible with aurora.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Been waiting on a similar answer for some time.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn. I was hoping someone already figured it out.
> 
> @Mayhem - any insights on how to make copper color with your pastel/dye?
Click to expand...

Well, as ZytheEKS pointed out, you can't really get a copper color out of pastels. Copper is a metallic color. Pastels are not.

Now, if you're looking for the pastel equivalent of copper without the metallic sheen, then a combination of orange with some brown and a bit of red could get you close. Of course, that's just a guess.


----------



## LandonAaron

Are the Blitz Cleaning solutions sold outside of the kits? Just the liquids themselves without the gloves, goggles, beakers and what not?

Also, are the cleaning kits good for just one use, or does it come with enough of the cleaning liquids for multiple uses? I have about a 1.5 liter loop.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Well, as ZytheEKS pointed out, you can't really get a copper color out of pastels. Copper is a metallic color. Pastels are not.
> 
> Now, if you're looking for the pastel equivalent of copper without the metallic sheen, then a combination of orange with some brown and a bit of red could get you close. Of course, that's just a guess.


Oh ok, thanks for the insights.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @ Gabrielzm Aurora contains No metal what so ever, that is crap from your rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Aurora cannot create silver pellets and if you don't wish to use a product ever again because of the crap you have in the system id suggest you change your rads then because thats your issue not the aurora.
> 
> When you try to blame a product for an issue its normally best you blame the correct products first. This is not a rant but a Get you facts correct first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Once again "There is "*NO*" metal in Aurora......."
> 
> So what you should now do is head over to the Rad maker and go complain to them about your issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Mick I was not complaining mate, just sharing my findings. It is not metal. I said (or at least I meant to) it looks like in *color* a silvery thing which to me is just like the particles in aurora booster silver I used. BTW those rads were cleaned before put to use using the full blitz treatment. The pellets don't feel like metal either they feel more like rubber and change shape if you squeeze them (*squishy* is the word here). Do you still think they are flux from rads? I might be wrong of course and I am not here to create polemics mate. I am a fan of Mayhems products was just saying will not use aurora on a system not designed for it (read what I wrote carefully).
> 
> edit - BTW I was warned by Zy that the rads could get aurora particles before I put to use since they are dual pass and it seems to me they did... So in no way I came here blaming or pointing fingers to Mayhems or demanding anything. My intention was to warn others to pay attention to the plan/choice of components compatible with aurora.
Click to expand...

Aurora's particles are, on average, 40nm. You're not going to see visible chunks of them, period. If you saw a powder absolutely coat the crevices in a waterblock, that might be aurora. (It also might be a whole host of other things, such as plasticizers.) Those aren't powders, they're chunks. I see no way they could possible fuse together to make those big chunks. Most likely scenario in my eyes is the pastel part 2 dislodged some debris in the rads.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Are the Blitz Cleaning solutions sold outside of the kits? Just the liquids themselves without the gloves, goggles, beakers and what not?
> 
> Also, are the cleaning kits good for just one use, or does it come with enough of the cleaning liquids for multiple uses? I have about a 1.5 liter loop.


Do not recommend. You're working with some pretty potent acids. Unless you already have the extras on hand, you're going to hurt yourself. Working with phosphoric acid without acid proof gloves and protective eyewear? The instructors at my Uni would have your head on a pike. XD

Anyways, you can buy Pastel part 1 from mayhems website, and the blitz basic kit can be bought in most places. As to how much it will clean, depends on how much liquid your rads/loop takes.

-Z


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Are the Blitz Cleaning solutions sold outside of the kits? Just the liquids themselves without the gloves, goggles, beakers and what not?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Aurora's particles are, on average, 40nm. You're not going to see visible chunks of them, period. If you saw a powder absolutely coat the crevices in a waterblock, that might be aurora. (It also might be a whole host of other things, such as plasticizers.) Those aren't powders, they're chunks. I see no way they could possible fuse together to make those big chunks. Most likely scenario in my eyes is the pastel part 2 dislodged some debris in the rads.
> 
> -Z
> Do not recommend. You're working with some pretty potent acids. Unless you already have the extras on hand, you're going to hurt yourself. Working with phosphoric acid without acid proof gloves and protective eyewear? The instructors at my Uni would have your head on a pike. XD
> 
> Anyways, you can buy Pastel part 1 from mayhems website, and the blitz basic kit can be bought in most places. As to how much it will clean, depends on how much liquid your rads/loop takes.
> 
> -Z


Well I was more thinking, that I would buy the kit once, and then I would have the glooves and eyewear and what not, but from then on I could re-use that stuff, so it would be nice if you could just but the liquids themselves after that.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Aurora's particles are, on average, 40nm. You're not going to see visible chunks of them, period. If you saw a powder absolutely coat the crevices in a waterblock, that might be aurora. (It also might be a whole host of other things, such as plasticizers.) Those aren't powders, they're chunks. I see no way they could possible fuse together to make those big chunks. Most likely scenario in my eyes is the pastel part 2 dislodged some debris in the rads.
> 
> -Z
> Do not recommend. You're working with some pretty potent acids. Unless you already have the extras on hand, you're going to hurt yourself. Working with phosphoric acid without acid proof gloves and protective eyewear? The instructors at my Uni would have your head on a pike. XD
> 
> Anyways, you can buy Pastel part 1 from mayhems website, and the blitz basic kit can be bought in most places. As to how much it will clean, depends on how much liquid your rads/loop takes.
> 
> -Z


Ok thanks for the input. But if it was debris from the rads those chunks would not be squishy would it? Rads were cleaned prior to use and very thoroughly. It is documented on the build log. Including hot water shake method. Filter using a pond pump and finally full blitz treatment following instructions to the minute. I always thought aurora particles could make such pellets in a system not prepared by depositing together but if that is not possible than I am at loss here. In any case I don't expect it to find anymore of those pellets but if they show up I can certainly mail to Mayhems if he wants to take a closer inspection on it.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ok thanks for the input. But if it was debris from the rads those chunks would not be squishy would it? Rads were cleaned prior to use and very thoroughly. It is documented on the build log. Including hot water shake method. Filter using a pond pump and finally full blitz treatment following instructions to the minute. I always thought aurora particles could make such pellets in a system not prepared by depositing together but if that is not possible than I am at loss here. In any case I don't expect it to find anymore of those pellets but if they show up I can certainly mail to Mayhems if he wants to take a closer inspection on it.


Have you tried cutting one in half yet? Just curious









Also, not sure how you'd get that concentration of Aurora particles to make up a sphere like that, let alone multiple. Something strange is happening.

I know you used blitz, Aurora, pastel, obviously water... Was there anything else that ever was in your system? Other additives, other fluids, a cat, anything?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Have you tried cutting one in half yet? Just curious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, not sure how you'd get that concentration of Aurora particles to make up a sphere like that, let alone multiple. Something strange is happening.
> 
> I know you used blitz, Aurora, pastel, obviously water... Was there anything else that ever was in your system? Other additives, other fluids, a cat, anything?


In between the first aurora and pastel I rinse through with water , flush until no trace of color was left on the water. I used mayhens dye on the first aurora to get a grey color. Then I switch to pastel again with some dye (mayhems) and aurora booster and in the end (also after a full rinse with water) just black pastel. Run the loop for about 2 months until some particles show up on the blocks and those pellets. You can even see the traces of the blocks fins on one of those pellets. No cat and no pet. Those pellets are very malleable and if you press them they became pancakes. But if you squeeze and apply friction to it with your fingers some just dissolve in to a smear. I found the paper towel where I put them here. If Mayhems want to inspect them I could send it over.

Ok did a little experiment here with that big one with the mark of the fin of the block (will rplace with high resolution from imgur soon and upload the video). Put on water for a minute then pressed and then smeared between the fingers. Pictures and video:






video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eqwyuWLApI&feature=youtu.be


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Have you tried cutting one in half yet? Just curious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, not sure how you'd get that concentration of Aurora particles to make up a sphere like that, let alone multiple. Something strange is happening.
> 
> I know you used blitz, Aurora, pastel, obviously water... Was there anything else that ever was in your system? Other additives, other fluids, a cat, anything?
> 
> 
> 
> In between the first aurora and pastel I rinse through with water , flush until no trace of color was left on the water. I used mayhens dye on the first aurora to get a grey color. Then I switch to pastel again with some dye (mayhems) and aurora booster and in the end (also after a full rinse with water) just black pastel. Run the loop for about 2 months until some particles show up on the blocks and those pellets. You can even see the traces of the blocks fins on one of those pellets. No cat and no pet. Those pellets are very malleable and if you press them they became pancakes. But if you squeeze and apply friction to it with your fingers some just dissolve in to a smear. I found the paper towel where I put them here. If Mayhems want to inspect them I could send it over.
> 
> Ok did a little experiment here with that big one with the mark of the fin of the block (will rplace with high resolution from imgur soon and upload the video). Put on water for a minute then pressed and then smeared between the fingers. Pictures and video:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> video:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eqwyuWLApI&feature=youtu.be
Click to expand...

Your primordial ooze has given rise to new life . . . .

That's a teeny tiny turd you got there . .

D.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> In between the first aurora and pastel I rinse through with water , flush until no trace of color was left on the water. I used mayhens dye on the first aurora to get a grey color. Then I switch to pastel again with some dye (mayhems) and aurora booster and in the end (also after a full rinse with water) just black pastel. Run the loop for about 2 months until some particles show up on the blocks and those pellets. You can even see the traces of the blocks fins on one of those pellets. No cat and no pet. Those pellets are very malleable and if you press them they became pancakes. But if you squeeze and apply friction to it with your fingers some just dissolve in to a smear. I found the paper towel where I put them here. If Mayhems want to inspect them I could send it over.
> 
> Ok did a little experiment here with that big one with the mark of the fin of the block (will rplace with high resolution from imgur soon and upload the video). Put on water for a minute then pressed and then smeared between the fingers. Pictures and video:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> video:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eqwyuWLApI&feature=youtu.be


Hmm, that is quite strange...kinda gross to be honest. Kinda looks like the gunk that forms on the inside of drains


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Hmm, that is quite strange...kinda gross to be honest. Kinda looks like the gunk that forms on the inside of drains


No smell and feel like paste on the finger, particularly sensodyne but with more consistency on it.


----------



## Mayhem

Any chance we could get a sample of the poo from you so we can send it over to be checked.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Any chance we could get a sample of the poo from you so we can send it over to be checked.


That is the most hilariously out of context statement I have ever heard.

I'm sigging this.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Any chance we could get a sample of the poo from you so we can send it over to be checked.


This post caused me much nose milk.


----------



## Ramzinho

at least mick is trying to get his hands on a flaw to avoid it in the future.


----------



## krel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Any chance we could get a sample of the poo from you so we can send it over to be checked.


I'm having a hard time deciding if today you win the Internet or if today you lose the Internet


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> That is the most hilariously out of context statement I have ever heard.
> 
> I'm sigging this.


It really is. Really glad I had been following and didn't just skip they a couple days like I often do cause, man, I'd be confused and a bit worried


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It really is. Really glad I had been following and didn't just skip they a couple days like I often do cause, man, I'd be confused and a bit worried


Lol.









Mark


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Any chance we could get a sample of the poo from you so we can send it over to be checked.


Sure thing Mick. Send me a PM with the address and I will place all the paper with the poo on it on your way.


----------



## DarthBaggins

lol you said poo


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Thread Rename Suggestion: Mayhems' Poo & Coolant Users Club


----------



## timepart

Pastel Blueberry is in and I love it! Such a dense color and bright.


----------



## Domiro

Your poo looks like this one time satan sneezed into my loop. Was shortly after having blitzed it.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Any chance we could get a sample of the poo from you so we can send it over to be checked.
> 
> 
> 
> Sure thing Mick. Send me a PM with the address and I will place all the paper with the poo on it on your way.
Click to expand...

On a serious note yeh send it over we will get it checked out,


----------



## Mayhem

On a side note. looking for testers for the tubing,

you must be running 13mm ID / 19mm OD soft tubing, You must be running pastel (pref white) or XT1.

And you must keep us updated oh how its going.

Max sample will be 2 meters in size.

This is limited so we will be looking for experienced users.


----------



## pompss

6 hours for blitz part 2 will be Enough ??
When i cleaned the rad with blitz part 1 Nothing major came out so xspc rads are the best. They are very clean.


----------



## SteezyTN

If I used white distiller vinegar and a distiller water solution, is it safe to run Mayhems Pastel Red? I know it says it "performs" better before using the Blitz, but is it really necessary? I'm just worried about spending $80 for about 3L of coolant, and end up having it turn brown or something.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> If I used white distiller vinegar and a distiller water solution, is it safe to run Mayhems Pastel Red? I know it says it "performs" better before using the Blitz, but is it really necessary? I'm just worried about spending $80 for about 3L of coolant, and end up having it turn brown or something.


pastel its very sensitive to ph so after you clean your loop you need to be sure that the ph its 6.8- 7.0
Also if you have alphcool radiator then mayhem blitz its a must.
With xspc rad you should be fine, they are very clean.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> pastel its very sensitive to ph so after you clean your loop you need to be sure that the ph its 6.8- 7.0
> Also if you have alphcool radiator then mayhem blitz its a must.
> With xspc rad you should be fine, they are very clean.


Okay good. I have an RX360, Rx240 and EX240. How can I check the pH?


----------



## pompss

digital ph meter


----------



## Rahldrac

I just got a new ek xtx 360. Cleaned it out with hot water now. And I have 3 magicool rads that I have already blitz. So I am a bit hesitant to open a new blitz for only one rad.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> In between the first aurora and pastel I rinse through with water , flush until no trace of color was left on the water. I used mayhens dye on the first aurora to get a grey color. Then I switch to pastel again with some dye (mayhems) and aurora booster and in the end (also after a full rinse with water) just black pastel. Run the loop for about 2 months until some particles show up on the blocks and those pellets. You can even see the traces of the blocks fins on one of those pellets. No cat and no pet. Those pellets are very malleable and if you press them they became pancakes. But if you squeeze and apply friction to it with your fingers some just dissolve in to a smear. I found the paper towel where I put them here. If Mayhems want to inspect them I could send it over.
> 
> Ok did a little experiment here with that big one with the mark of the fin of the block (will rplace with high resolution from imgur soon and upload the video). Put on water for a minute then pressed and then smeared between the fingers. Pictures and video:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> video:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eqwyuWLApI&feature=youtu.be


That looks and sounds an awful lot like JB Weld



(I don't have any on hand to test unfortunately)


----------



## masterskop

Hi,

I just wanted to know if someone could shed some light for me on Mayhem's coolant....I'm interested in Mayhem's X1 uv blue.

I have a cpu waterblock from EK (nickel / actel) and 2x 780 EK waterblocks (nickel / actel). The cpu wb is in a loop with the ram and n/s bridge wb as well. Also this loop has an xspc 480 ex rad and photon 170 res/pump combo with killcoil in the res. The mobo is an asus Rampage iv black. The 2 gpus are the 780 type with the EK nickel actel blocks. This second loop has the 2 gpus, 2x xspc ex 240s, and a photon 170 combo w/ killcoil. The tubing is primochill's petg tubing clear.

Currently I'm using killcoils and distilled water only. No additives or inhibitors for corrosion. Should I be concerned with the silver killcoils and the EK nickel actel blocks if I weren't to use any Mayhem coolants?

If there is a concern, I would like some information from anyone with a setup like mine to shed some light on Mayhem's coolants and benefits.

If I do decide to go with the uv blue and lets say I had an accident with a leak, will the uv blue coolant stain wood furniture like a wooden desk or counter?

Thanks!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> digital ph meter


Well yeah, I know that lol. How do I use it? Is it the water in the loop? Will all the water throughout the loop be the same ph?


----------



## Mayhem

@SteezyTN Take a sample of into a glass beaker and use your meter on it







.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @SteezyTN Take a sample of into a glass beaker and use your meter on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks for a response. But do you mean a sample of water that has been running through the loop? Also, do you sell the pH meter separately... And even a stupider question







; will just a cheapy pH meter work (if you don't sell it separately.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @SteezyTN Take a sample of into a glass beaker and use your meter on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for a response. But do you mean a sample of water that has been running through the loop? Also, do you sell the pH meter separately... And even a stupider question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ; will just a cheapy pH meter work (if you don't sell it separately.
Click to expand...

I prefer pH strips personally if you don't have a digital meter already. Much less room for technical error, and improper calibration. Test the pH of some water, then run it through the loop and test again. If there's anything messing up the pH it'll reflect on the comparison. It's best to take 2 or 3 samples with your pH strip, just for clarity. (pH strips a cheap). This is of course assuming you haven't filled yet. If you've filled just drain a small amount and test that. If it's in the proper pH range don't worry about it. If you're worried something might mess it up, test every week or so.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Yes you can by PH Meters from us and PH strips as well , you are correct take a sample of fluid from the system into a clean container. You can use a syringe or any thing that will suck it out of the res.

|I think our PH meters are only £5 to £8 each if i remember correctly, They are auto temperature adjustable now and self calibrating. A cheap but very good meter.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I have a pool chemical supply near my new place and I plan on investigating what goodies they hold (need better PH testers than the strips I've been using).


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes you can by PH Meters from us and PH strips as well , you are correct take a sample of fluid from the system into a clean container. You can use a syringe or any thing that will suck it out of the res.
> 
> |I think our PH meters are only £5 to £8 each if i remember correctly, They are auto temperature adjustable now and self calibrating. A cheap but very good meter.


Okay, but what I don't understand is why am I am wanting the pH of water that I'm not using long term... Meaning that I'm going to use Pastel red. Is it because the radiators and loop will change the pH, or determine why it is? I'm asking because I'm kind of confused.


----------



## Mayhem

Its a good way to see if your system is not leaching "poo" into it







. you dont have to do it, its just another way of looking after your system.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its a good way to see if your system is not leaching "poo" into it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . you dont have to do it, its just another way of looking after your system.


Okay, that makes sense. I'm going to run distilled for about one or two weeks (just distilled and NO biocides or anything), then upgrade to the pastel red. So basically, if after a week or so, the distilled has a pH of 6.8-7, then that means I'm okay?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay, that makes sense. I'm going to run distilled for about one or two weeks (just distilled and NO biocides or anything), then upgrade to the pastel red. So basically, if after a week or so, the distilled has a pH of 6.8-7, then that means I'm okay?


What is the real range for Pastel? 6.8-7 seems like a pretty tight window to operate in, especially since googling "pH of distilled water" yields "The pH of distilled water is between 5.6 and 7"


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> What is the real range for Pastel? 6.8-7 seems like a pretty tight window to operate in, especially since googling "pH of distilled water" yields "The pH of distilled water is between 5.6 and 7"


I only said that because another member said that. I don't even know what the recommended pH is.


----------



## DarthBaggins

You want between 6.8 - 7.2 (7 is perfect)


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> You want between 6.8 - 7.2 (7 is perfect)


Am I crazy for thinking thats SO tight? Or is it not as tight as I think.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> You want between 6.8 - 7.2 (7 is perfect)
> 
> 
> 
> Am I crazy for thinking thats SO tight? Or is it not as tight as I think.
Click to expand...

Pastel has pH balancers in it. It's tight because the only way it's pH will be wacked out is if a foreign substance contaminating it.

-Z


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Pastel has pH balancers in it. It's tight because the only way it's pH will be wacked out is if a foreign substance contaminating it.
> 
> -Z


That's good to know, didn't know it had balancers in it









Also didn't know if Mayhems made a case badge @Mayhem? Would like to put one in R.C70 and JAC since both are running Mayhems' fluids (or will be in the case of JAC)


----------



## pompss

I cleaned my rad and loop with blitz following the instrutions and the video and added pastel red and pastel white in my dual loop. ph was 6.8 -7.0.

Now i hope i didnt get any yellowing on the rigit tubing and any changing color of the pastel again.
if yellowing happens again then i will go with a closed loop cooling system for the cpu and air for the gpu.

Cannot change coolant every 2-3 months and unmount the loop to clean the tubing.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> I cleaned my rad and loop with blitz following the instrutions and the video and added pastel red and pastel white in my dual loop. ph was 6.8 -7.0.
> 
> Now i hope i didnt get any yellowing on the rigit tubing and any changing color of the pastel again.
> if yellowing happens again then i will go with a closed loop cooling system for the cpu and air for the gpu.
> 
> Cannot change coolant every 2-3 months and unmount the loop to clean the tubing.


Well, the tubing yellowing is hardly relevant to the coolant. Tubing discolouration just happens. It is accelerated when in direct sunlight IIRC.

-Z


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well, the tubing yellowing is hardly relevant to the coolant. Tubing discolouration just happens. It is accelerated when in direct sunlight IIRC.
> 
> -Z


Wasnt tubing Discolouration since i was able to remove it. I think was some kind for dirt or maybe alegea caused by ph alteration in contact with the sun .
As far as i know rigid acrilic tubing doesnt get so yellow after only 2 month.
Lets hope this never happen again since i bought the s5 pedestral and i move the pc under my desk to avoid sun contact.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Hey Mick, crazy idea. Quad pass single row dual purpose 240mm*240mm/200mm*200mm radiator. What are the chances?Phobya's the only ones with a 200mm rad or a 240mm*240mm out there.

-Z


----------



## SteezyTN

It's kind of ridiculous how much PPCS compared to the Mayhems website (including international shipping). I need roughly 3 liters of pastel red to fill my entire system. For the 3 250mL of coolant + shipping, its $75. I went to see how much shipping was for internationally on the Mayhems site, and the total (including the shipping) was $63 USD. Mayhems shipping international is around $12, and PPCS wants $14 to ship from Florida to Cali. What's up with this picture. Looks like I'll be ordering off the Mayhems website when I know for sure how many liters I really need.


----------



## Mayhem

PPC's has to import all the way to the USA, then they have to pay import duties (have you calculated what the import duty is from us to you). tbh your not getting ripped you getting a bargain







.

@ZytheEKS None mate i hate dealing with ********s who think they own the rad market ....


----------



## DarthBaggins

Alot
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> PPC's has to import all the way to the USA, then they have to pay import duties (have you calculated what the import duty is from us to you). tbh your not getting ripped you getting a bargain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> @ZytheEKS None mate i hate dealing with ********s who think they own the rad market ....


I thought you owned the rad market


----------



## Ramzinho

Hey mick. do we have a discount code for OCN for ordering from the UK store directly?


----------



## Mayhem

Yup its "*OCN*" without quotation marks.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Wasnt tubing Discolouration since i was able to remove it. I think was some kind for dirt or maybe alegea caused by ph alteration in contact with the sun .
> As far as i know rigid acrilic tubing doesnt get so yellow after only 2 month.
> Lets hope this never happen again since i bought the s5 pedestral and i move the pc under my desk to avoid sun contact.


I have red tubing, but when cleaning my blocks I noticed that the paper towels I was wiping with were picking up some yellow stuff. This was one week after I had stopped using silver kill coils or any biocide as I had added nickel to my loop and noticed the kill coil turning black. Anyway best guess I had for what it could be was some sort of algea growth. I was surprised at fast it could grow in just one week without any biocides. Anyway, now I am using XT1 clear concentrate. Hopefully that will stop the algea growth and protect against any corrosion from the mixed copper/nickle loop. One of the nickle blocks is used and was already fairly corroded when I got it, so hopefully this will keep it from getting it worse.


----------



## Mayhem

You can never stop corrosion only slow it down but using XT 1 at a 5 to 10% ratio will slow it down dramatically and will prolong the life of your equipment







.

This is were we do differ from companies we tell the truth







.


----------



## MocoIMO

Hey all, Would I be safe to re-use my current Pastel liquid that will be drained from my PC (only 3 months old) or should I refill it with new liquid?

I am keeping all the same hardware for now just need to reverse my PC case.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MocoIMO*
> 
> Hey all, Would I be safe to re-use my current Pastel liquid that will be drained from my PC (only 3 months old) or should I refill it with new liquid?
> 
> I am keeping all the same hardware for now just need to reverse my PC case.


you can use coffe filter and pastel can go up to 2-3 years if stays in cool and dark place


----------



## DarkIdeals

Do you guys know if it's safe to mix Mayhem's Ice White 1L pre-mixed coolant with distilled water? I only have 1 liter left and i just finished my new loop. Not really confident that i have enough to fill it up since i have a 480mm rad, a 420mm rad, a 360mm rad, two GPU water blocks, and a CPU water block.

Here's my build log

http://www.overclock.net/t/1535848/disparity-water-cooled-caselabs-sma8-gtx-titan-x-sli-rivbe-i7-build-log

Thanks


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Do you guys know if it's safe to mix Mayhem's Ice White with distilled water? I only have 1 liter left and i just finished my new loop. Not really confident that i have enough to fill it up since i have a 480mm rad, a 420mm rad, a 360mm rad, two GPU water blocks, and a CPU water block.
> 
> Here's my build log
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1535848/disparity-water-cooled-caselabs-sma8-gtx-titan-x-sli-rivbe-i7-build-log
> 
> Thanks


As long as you maintain the mixing ratio for Mayhems Pastels, you'll be fine. However, if you are talking about adding distilled water to already pre-mixed or properly mixed pastel, then no. Because you would be diluting all of the algae and corrosion inhibitors. Also you risk the pastel particles falling out of suspension. Buy another bottle of premix/concentrate if you must add more.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Do you guys know if it's safe to mix Mayhem's Ice White 1L pre-mixed coolant with distilled water? I only have 1 liter left and i just finished my new loop. Not really confident that i have enough to fill it up since i have a 480mm rad, a 420mm rad, a 360mm rad, two GPU water blocks, and a CPU water block.
> 
> Here's my build log
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1535848/disparity-water-cooled-caselabs-sma8-gtx-titan-x-sli-rivbe-i7-build-log
> 
> Thanks


You 'could' dilute it slightly, but really depends on how much you are planning on diluting it. I personally wouldn't do it, but others have. Just keep in mind that you are diluting the biocides, anti-corrosives, etc. too


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You 'could' dilute it slightly, but really depends on how much you are planning on diluting it. I personally wouldn't do it, but others have. Just keep in mind that you are diluting the biocides, anti-corrosives, etc. too


So if i added some more biocide later on would that work? I'm running low on money after spendingt so much on this build and even saving $20 would help me finish the last few things i need, so i'd like to avoid buying another bottle if possible. White is a color that doesn't really dilute too much even in a 1/1 ratio of clear to white, so i think i'd be ok even if i had to add another liter. But of course i worry about the anti-corrosive/algae properties as well. Although i do have some anti-algae additives used for swimming pools, but i'd be afraid to use any of that without professional advice on how much would be safe for such a small loop.

Perhaps i could add in a kill coil or something?


----------



## yoi

i have a question :

can i leave a system with pastel coolant and leave it there for like ... a year? whats the recommended time for a drainage ?

and whats the best way to clean a pastr-coolant-fillled loop , like the normal distiled water? . vinegar / hot water and that stuff ?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So if i added some more biocide later on would that work? I'm running low on money after spendingt so much on this build and even saving $20 would help me finish the last few things i need, so i'd like to avoid buying another bottle if possible. White is a color that doesn't really dilute too much even in a 1/1 ratio of clear to white, so i think i'd be ok even if i had to add another liter. But of course i worry about the anti-corrosive/algae properties as well. Although i do have some anti-algae additives used for swimming pools, but i'd be afraid to use any of that without professional advice on how much would be safe for such a small loop.
> 
> Perhaps i could add in a kill coil or something?


Kill coil wouldn't do really anything and don't add anything extra to pastel. Without knowing how much you are diluting, it's hard to say what your risk is.

Another liter of water is probably too much. I understand the concern for cost, but an extra $20 is probably a very small percentage of the total cost of the build. It may end up being fine, but to me, it is potentially risking hundreds of dollars in custom loop gear to save $20. Opportunity cost says $20 is no big deal.

As below, the correct pastel mix gets you multiple years of service as well

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> i have a question :
> 
> can i leave a system with pastel coolant and leave it there for like ... a year? whats the recommended time for a drainage ?
> 
> and whats the best way to clean a pastr-coolant-fillled loop , like the normal distiled water? . vinegar / hot water and that stuff ?


Pastel can live in-system for 2-3 years with no issue. It's recommended to drain yearly, run through coffee filter, then refill, with the filtered fluid, the system, however.

Best way to prep a loop for pastel is the blitz kit. It's also the best way to clean after use. Really it's the best way to clean a loop, period


----------



## yoi

thanks for answering ...

i have another question , the Orange pastel coolant , does it resembles the orange from Gigabyte? or do i have to mix other dyes to make the combination ?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> thanks for answering ...
> 
> i have another question , the Orange pastel coolant , does it resembles the orange from Gigabyte? or do i have to mix other dyes to make the combination ?


I find it to be a pretty close match. If you wanted to dye it up yourself, adding red dye to the yellow pastel would work well. Add a drop at a time until it got the right shade


----------



## MrPT

My new reservoir and red aurora2


----------



## MocoIMO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> My new reservoir and red aurora2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is gorgeous


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Kill coil wouldn't do really anything and don't add anything extra to pastel. Without knowing how much you are diluting, it's hard to say what your risk is.
> 
> Another liter of water is probably too much. I understand the concern for cost, but an extra $20 is probably a very small percentage of the total cost of the build. It may end up being fine, but to me, it is potentially risking hundreds of dollars in custom loop gear to save $20. Opportunity cost says $20 is no big deal.
> 
> As below, the correct pastel mix gets you multiple years of service as well
> Pastel can live in-system for 2-3 years with no issue. It's recommended to drain yearly, run through coffee filter, then refill, with the filtered fluid, the system, however.
> 
> Best way to prep a loop for pastel is the blitz kit. It's also the best way to clean after use. Really it's the best way to clean a loop, period


So do you think it would be ok to only use 1 liter of pastel white then? For a few weeks at least? LIke if it only filled the reservoir 30-40% full etc..? That's the thing i worry about, whether the loop would even function right with only a liter of coolant since i have three radiators that could all hold quite a bit of fluid i imagine.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> So do you think it would be ok to only use 1 liter of pastel white then? For a few weeks at least? LIke if it only filled the reservoir 30-40% full etc..? That's the thing i worry about, whether the loop would even function right with only a liter of coolant since i have three radiators that could all hold quite a bit of fluid i imagine.


Technically, a reservoir is not strictly necessary to the loop, so a half full res is no big deal to the function, just the aesthetics. They help with filling, bleeding, and they add to the aesthetic (first thing people say is, what is that thing and point to the reservoir).

What are your components in the loop?


----------



## DarthBaggins

If you notice AiO's don't have reservoirs either.


----------



## parsnip

Just wanted to say I'm impressed with Mayhems' order processing: 13 minutes after ordering I got the shipping notice!


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Technically, a reservoir is not strictly necessary to the loop, so a half full res is no big deal to the function, just the aesthetics. They help with filling, bleeding, and they add to the aesthetic (first thing people say is, what is that thing and point to the reservoir).
> 
> What are your components in the loop?


Yeah i knew it wasn't necessary but i worry about whether it will even fill up the rads and stuff

My full loop consists of two GTX TITAN X EK Waterblocks with an EK CSQ Plexi Bridge connecting them (parallel), an EK Supremacy EVO CPU Waterblock, an XSPC EX480 rad, a Black Ice GTX 360 rad, and an EK XTC 420 rad. All connected with 3/8" x 1/2" flex tubing, powered by a swiftech MCP655-B pump, using an EK X3 250mm Cylinder Reservoir.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Yeah i knew it wasn't necessary but i worry about whether it will even fill up the rads and stuff
> 
> My full loop consists of two GTX TITAN X EK Waterblocks with an EK CSQ Plexi Bridge connecting them (parallel), an EK Supremacy EVO CPU Waterblock, an XSPC EX480 rad, a Black Ice GTX 360 rad, and an EK XTC 420 rad. All connected with 3/8" x 1/2" flex tubing, powered by a swiftech MCP655-B pump, using an EK X3 250mm Cylinder Reservoir.


Yeah, you'll need at least 2-litre, if not more.

No offense dude, but, you have 2 Watercooled TitanX and are crying over $20...seems a bit ridiculous. You're probably close to $2500 in just your GPU setup...the total cost of the fluid you need is less than 2% of that cost. Taking into consideration your entire build, it is probably less than 1% of your total cost.

You can always use X1 or XT-1 which is less expensive and makes more than 1-litre per concentrate. X1 concentrate makes 2L and XT-1 depends based on your mix ratio, but is usually a couple litre. Or, you can go cheaper and just get a biocide or kill coil and some DI water for ~$10 and call it a day.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah, you'll need at least 2-litre, if not more.
> 
> No offense dude, but, you have 2 Watercooled TitanX and are crying over $20...seems a bit ridiculous. You're probably close to $2500 in just your GPU setup...the total cost of the fluid you need is less than 2% of that cost. Taking into consideration your entire build, it is probably less than 1% of your total cost.
> 
> You can always use X1 or XT-1 which is less expensive and makes more than 1-litre per concentrate. X1 concentrate makes 2L and XT-1 depends based on your mix ratio, but is usually a couple litre. Or, you can go cheaper and just get a biocide or kill coil and some DI water for ~$10 and call it a day.


Well that's the point, i spent so much on my GPU, CPU, Mobo, RAM, Caselabs case etc.. that i'm running out of money to buy the small things. I only need the last few fans (4 x 140mm and 3 x 120mm), a couple more fittings in order to connect my drain valve, and then fill the loop and i'm done, but i've already spent much more than i really should have.

I guess i could forego the fans for now and get the coolant, then get the fans in a couple weeks. I have one Noctua industrial NF-F12 2000rpm as an exhaust fan and four SP120s as rad fans hooked up now (3 on the black ice gtx 360 and 1 on the xspc 480) which should be enough to cool the system for a little while till i save up for the fans. Or go with distilled water ( i have a couple gallons) and a kill coil i suppose.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Well that's the point, i spent so much on my GPU, CPU, Mobo, RAM, Caselabs case etc.. that i'm running out of money to buy the small things. I only need the last few fans (4 x 140mm and 3 x 120mm), a couple more fittings in order to connect my drain valve, and then fill the loop and i'm done, but i've already spent much more than i really should have.
> 
> I guess i could forego the fans for now and get the coolant, then get the fans in a couple weeks. I have one Noctua industrial NF-F12 2000rpm as an exhaust fan and four SP120s as rad fans hooked up now (3 on the black ice gtx 360 and 1 on the xspc 480) which should be enough to cool the system for a little while till i save up for the fans. Or go with distilled water ( i have a couple gallons) and a kill coil i suppose.


What if instead of diluting it with just distilled water you dilute it with X1 Clear Concentrate and distilled water. The clear concentrate is only $6 a bottle. I don't if it is "okay" to mix the concentrates with the pre-mixed fluids, maybe someone else here can chime in.

Also, don't use a kill coil if you have nickle in your loop. Apparantly nickle and silver don't react well. One week after I added nickle to my loop my kill coil turned completely black and had thin layer of silky black material on it. Someone told me it was oxidation of the nickle causing it. I pulled the kill coil and haven't seen anymore black stuff.

Oh and check your PM's. I sent you something.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> My new reservoir and red aurora2


No spoiler-ing because new page but wow... that is awesome! How did you bend the middle tubes?

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## MrPT

More photos you can find on my fb page : https://www.facebook.com/pages/MrT-Design/1714777265415808?ref=bookmarks

Res is made by Skeeper and I have no idea how He bend tubes







, but You can ask him : https://www.facebook.com/pages/Skeeper/786288178115655?fref=ts


----------



## VSG

Yeah I have been a fan of Skeeper's work for a while now. Tried to contact him but no luck so far.


----------



## MrPT

The best way to reach him is send pm @ forum.benchmark.pl


----------



## LandonAaron

So I just got my blitz kit in, and reading the instructions I realized I have a bit of a problem. Part 1 only makes 1 liter of solution. I need to clean a MO-RA3 420 rad which holds 1.4L of coolant and a XSPC EX 420mm rad, and Alphacool UT45 240mm rad. I am not sure how much fluid the 420mm or 240mm rads hold, but all together I am thinking its probably around 2 liters.

The MO-RA3 is brand new and never been used before. Also it has a different sort of construction than most normal black radiators. My intuition tells me that these are probably a lot cleaner than most rads, so my current thinking is that I use all of the solution to clean it first, than drain and collect the solution and then re-use it to clean the other two rads.

The only problem with this is the MO-RA3 is 1.4L so I would have to dilute the solution to completely fill the MO-RA3, which would also mean using a diluted solution to clean the other rads as well.

The other option is to clean the other rads first with an un-diluted solution then drain, collect, and dilute it and use it on the MO-RA3, but this would mean putting in a dirty solution to the MO-RA 3 which I am hesitant to do.

Suggestions on how I should go about this?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So I just got my blitz kit in, and reading the instructions I realized I have a bit of a problem. Part 1 only makes 1 liter of solution. I need to clean a MO-RA3 420 rad which holds 1.4L of coolant and a XSPC EX 420mm rad, and Alphacool UT45 240mm rad. I am not sure how much fluid the 420mm or 240mm rads hold, but all together I am thinking its probably around 2 liters.
> 
> The MO-RA3 is brand new and never been used before. Also it has a different sort of construction than most normal black radiators. My intuition tells me that these are probably a lot cleaner than most rads, so my current thinking is that I use all of the solution to clean it first, than drain and collect the solution and then re-use it to clean the other two rads.
> 
> The only problem with this is the MO-RA3 is 1.4L so I would have to dilute the solution to completely fill the MO-RA3, which would also mean using a diluted solution to clean the other rads as well.
> 
> The other option is to clean the other rads first with an un-diluted solution then drain, collect, and dilute it and use it on the MO-RA3, but this would mean putting in a dirty solution to the MO-RA 3 which I am hesitant to do.
> 
> Suggestions on how I should go about this?


you can have an idea of rads volume from here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493339/the-radiator-volume-thread. Use the 1 liter on the ex and ut45 first it should be enough. You can always buy part 1 apart in Mayhems store. I think is around 9 GBP.

http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-system-clone.html

the description is incorrect this is 250 ml of part 1.


----------



## MegaTheJohny

hey guys, I bought 5x EK-Ekoolant Pastel RED (concentrate 250mL) - Mayhems, and I have to mix it with destilled water. So I went to store and bought destilled water for 1EUR per liter. Is there any special kind/better quality, or this cheap destilled water is ok ?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So I just got my blitz kit in, and reading the instructions I realized I have a bit of a problem. Part 1 only makes 1 liter of solution. I need to clean a MO-RA3 420 rad which holds 1.4L of coolant and a XSPC EX 420mm rad, and Alphacool UT45 240mm rad. I am not sure how much fluid the 420mm or 240mm rads hold, but all together I am thinking its probably around 2 liters.
> 
> The MO-RA3 is brand new and never been used before. Also it has a different sort of construction than most normal black radiators. My intuition tells me that these are probably a lot cleaner than most rads, so my current thinking is that I use all of the solution to clean it first, than drain and collect the solution and then re-use it to clean the other two rads.
> 
> The only problem with this is the MO-RA3 is 1.4L so I would have to dilute the solution to completely fill the MO-RA3, which would also mean using a diluted solution to clean the other rads as well.
> 
> The other option is to clean the other rads first with an un-diluted solution then drain, collect, and dilute it and use it on the MO-RA3, but this would mean putting in a dirty solution to the MO-RA 3 which I am hesitant to do.
> 
> Suggestions on how I should go about this?


Skip the Mo-Ra with the Blitz Kit, the tubes are not assembled the same manner as your other rads and are actually 4 continuous pieces in parallel turning/bending a lot of times. Do a simple hot water flush and see if you get anything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> hey guys, I bought 5x EK-Ekoolant Pastel RED (concentrate 250mL) - Mayhems, and I have to mix it with destilled water. So I went to store and bought destilled water for 1EUR per liter. Is there any special kind/better quality, or this cheap destilled water is ok ?


That is going to be fine. Most store brand distilled water are made the same way, and storage/transportation/handling are the only things that can affect it.


----------



## masterskop

hey, on the mayhems x1 concentrate ... mayhems states to change out the coolant every 9 months... at the most 1 year. How long have users here kept their coolants in loops for more than a year? Also, evaporation has to play a part in this. If distilled water evaporates so does some of the coolant. Adding distilled water only dilutes the solution just a bit, but should keeps the loop pretty much safe as to the biocide/gavantic protection, correct?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> hey guys, I bought 5x EK-Ekoolant Pastel RED (concentrate 250mL) - Mayhems, and I have to mix it with destilled water. So I went to store and bought destilled water for 1EUR per liter. Is there any special kind/better quality, or this cheap destilled water is ok ?


1 Euro per liter? That's expensive crap. It's .99 USD for a Gallon around here.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> 1 Euro per liter? That's expensive crap. It's .99 USD for a Gallon around here.


Depends on where you go. Walmart sells it for .89 but at CVS its 1.50. Its still cheap enough to not bother me.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Skip the Mo-Ra with the Blitz Kit, the tubes are not assembled the same manner as your other rads and are actually 4 continuous pieces in parallel turning/bending a lot of times. Do a simple hot water flush and see if you get anything.


Thanks, I had a feeling that the MO-RA didn't really need that stringent of a cleaning. I think what I will do is use a small amount, diluted to say 25% of normal use of Blitz part 1 on the MO-RA3. Then do the same with Blitz part 2 on it. Then clean the other radiators and and the loop per instructions using Blitz part 1 and 2, and then at the end the of the 24 hr run of blitz part 2 I will connect the MO-RA3 up to the rest of the loop with its diluted solution, and the loop with its full solutions and bringing the whole loop to about a 60% solution of Blitz part 2 and run like that for a few hours, just to make sure the acids in the MO-RA3 are good and neutralized.

One thing I don't really understand reading the instructions, is what the PH meter is for. It has instructions on how to calibrate it, but it doesn't say how or when we should use it?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> hey guys, I bought 5x EK-Ekoolant Pastel RED (concentrate 250mL) - Mayhems, and I have to mix it with destilled water. So I went to store and bought destilled water for 1EUR per liter. Is there any special kind/better quality, or this cheap destilled water is ok ?


Depends on the quality of distilled water. Proper distilled water will work just fine, but some areas have really crappy and impure distilled. This is actually why Mayhems started making ultrapure. It really isn't necessary to use some fancy brand of expensive distilled water, but if the purity of your locally sourced distilled water is crap it's really your only option.

To digress, locally sourced distilled is fine as long as it's got decent purity.

-Z


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Depends on the quality of distilled water. Proper distilled water will work just fine, but some areas have really crappy and impure distilled. This is actually why Mayhems started making ultrapure. It really isn't necessary to use some fancy brand of expensive distilled water, but if the purity of your locally sourced distilled water is crap it's really your only option.
> 
> To digress, locally sourced distilled is fine as long as it's got decent purity.
> 
> -Z


Could always go full ******* with it and distill your own if you are paranoid.


----------



## MegaTheJohny

well I just use the one I bought... and next time I will buy premix from Mayhems (1liter)


----------



## SteezyTN

Mayhems Pastel Red, or should I do Pastel Ice White?

I'm going to re-do the two top bends, and the long piece isn't final. Just temporary until i get my GPU(s)


----------



## parsnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems Pastel Red, or should I do Pastel Ice White?


Go for white, it will contrast nicely with the black case/mobo.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parsnip*
> 
> Go for white, it will contrast nicely with the black case/mobo.


I was only suggesting the white, because I have red fittings. Plus I do agree that the white would contrast the case and mono, as well as the red rings on my fans.

How do you think red would look with the red fittings though?


----------



## Mayhem

@MrPT that res is just art work. id frame it and stick it up in a gallery.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I love the Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow, there is about 0,4 liters of distilled water mixed with it though (could not empty my loop completely). My system takes pretty much exactly 3 litres of coolant, I love the color and it is matching good with my fan-rings. My brother in law said it looked like FunLight Orange (https://cdn3.cdnme.se/cdn/8-2/382376/images/2010/img_3686_70923992.jpg). It looks nice nevertheless.


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parsnip*
> 
> Go for white, it will contrast nicely with the black case/mobo.


I say white, it will make the inside tube lines pop regardless of lighting.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> I say white, it will make the inside tube lines pop regardless of lighting.


Yeah, I think I'll go with the pastel white. I think it will look good in the case and match with the motherboard and red fittings. Now that I think about it, it would look kind of weird with red fittings and red coolant.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I went to order a few fittings to make it easier than doing more bends on a single run, and PPCS was already charging $12 for the cheapest shipping. So I went ahead and ordered 2 liters of Pastel Ice White, as it was like $0.50 since more in shipping costs.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I went to order a few fittings to make it easier than doing more bends on a single run, and PPCS was already charging $12 for the cheapest shipping. So I went ahead and ordered 2 liters of Pastel Ice White, as it was like $0.50 since more in shipping costs.


In my experience PPC's shipping is close to a flat rate. I scales a little bit with what you order but not much, so I try to always get everything on one order. A few times I have remembered something else I needed the next day, placed an order for it and in the comment section, requested that the order be combined with my previous order and listed the order number. Each time they have done it and refunded me he majority of the shipping cost on the second order. Of course you have to place the second order before the first ships for them to be able to do that.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> In my experience PPC's shipping is close to a flat rate. I scales a little bit with what you order but not much, so I try to always get everything on one order. A few times I have remembered something else I needed the next day, placed an order for it and in the comment section, requested that the order be combined with my previous order and listed the order number. Each time they have done it and refunded me he majority of the shipping cost on the second order. Of course you have to place the second order before the first ships for them to be able to do that.


$13 for 7 fittings that weigh .25 ounces each...? That's ridiculous. That's why I went ahead and ordered the coolant, because I didn't need anything else. But when the new NVidia cards are releases (980ti or whatever) im going to be getting a waterblock from them. But since shipping was already do high, and the coolant was only like $0.50 since more in shipping, I could resist. I'm going to pick up a pH meter sometime next week because I would hate having $40 in white coolant turn brown haha. but im not going to use the coolant until I add the GPU to the block. When theres a bunch of 90 degree fittings and bends, its hard as hell trying to get the distilled water out haha.


----------



## 4zp1r1na

It's the Mayhems XT-1 Red suppose to become purple after 2 months of use?
At first I believe the color was due to the tubbing clouding, so I was going to blame my Primochill advance LRT, but after I teardown all my loop I see that actually the tubing was not clouded it was the coolant that change it's color from Red to purple. It's this suppose to happen? All of my blocks and WC stuff was new I even flush the rad before using it.




























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.


----------



## SteezyTN

So before I ordered the Pastel Ice White, I forgot about issues with some tubing. From what I understand, there is issues with the Primochill soft tubing, but what about the Primochill PETG?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So before I ordered the Pastel Ice White, I forgot about issues with some tubing. From what I understand, there is issues with the Primochill soft tubing, but what about the Primochill PETG?


It's the old school primochill tubing that had issues which is no longer being made. The current product, the advanced lrt, is fine and actually the current recommended soft tubing. Hard line will not have problems with fluids at all


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4zp1r1na*
> 
> It's the Mayhems XT-1 Red suppose to become purple after 2 months of use?
> At first I believe the color was due to the tubbing clouding, so I was going to blame my Primochill advance LRT, but after I teardown all my loop I see that actually the tubing was not clouded it was the coolant that change it's color from Red to purple. It's this suppose to happen? All of my blocks and WC stuff was new I even flush the rad before using it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nothing to do with the coolant, clean your rads with the Mayhems blitz kit.

Mick


----------



## SteezyTN

So I was talking with Mayhem, and I decided to purchase the Blitz Pro kit for my rads, and to get the pH up to neutral. I would hate knowing that I spent $40 on ice white coolant, and having it turn poopy haha. However, PPCS only have the concentrate of the ice white, so I just got that.

Now this is a serious question. From what I understand, all distiller water is the same, but some may have different pH's. But does it matter if I just use some cheap brand to mix the concentrate? I work at a grocery store, and they sell distilled for $0.98 USD. If not, what's the best distilled I can buy. I would buy the ultra H20 from mayhems, but I'm not spending $9 a litter if I don't need too.


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far I've always had good luck w/ Deer Park Distilled (states on the label "Safe for Small Appliances"


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I was talking with Mayhem, and I decided to purchase the Blitz Pro kit for my rads, and to get the pH up to neutral. I would hate knowing that I spent $40 on ice white coolant, and having it turn poopy haha. However, PPCS only have the concentrate of the ice white, so I just got that.
> 
> Now this is a serious question. From what I understand, all distiller water is the same, but some may have different pH's. But does it matter if I just use some cheap brand to mix the concentrate? I work at a grocery store, and they sell distilled for $0.98 USD. If not, what's the best distilled I can buy. I would buy the ultra H20 from mayhems, but I'm not spending $9 a litter if I don't need too.


Distilled water will always have a weird pH, anywhere from 6.3-7.1ish. As long as the distilled is proper quality it's fine to use. Since you're using the USD I'll assume you're located in the U.S. in which case the distilled from the store is probably fine. Pastel should get the coolant to the proper pH. What you want to worry about is if there's anything in the loop that will CHANGE the pH of the coolant. Flux, residual acids, salts, or any other types of contaminants. This is coincidentally where the Blitz kit comes in. It'll get rid of all those contaminants, and if used correctly should neutralize/remove residual acids.

-Z


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Distilled water will always have a weird pH, anywhere from 6.3-7.1ish. As long as the distilled is proper quality it's fine to use. Since you're using the USD I'll assume you're located in the U.S. in which case the distilled from the store is probably fine. Pastel should get the coolant to the proper pH. What you want to worry about is if there's anything in the loop that will CHANGE the pH of the coolant. Flux, residual acids, salts, or any other types of contaminants. This is coincidentally where the Blitz kit comes in. It'll get rid of all those contaminants, and if used correctly should neutralize/remove residual acids.
> 
> -Z


Correct, I'm in the US. I talked with Mayhem, and I decided to place the order for the Pro kit. I don't want to take any chances of wasting money on the coolant, and having it change colors. So I'll just get the $0.99 distilled from the store. Thanks a lot Z


----------



## P206GTI

Question for everyone, this is the second build that happens the same, the pastel red goes from red to very very dark red, anyone has any idea of why this is happening ? never had an issue with pastel blue berry, or pastel yellow or pastel green,








Thnx !!


----------



## MegaTheJohny

guys...My pastel RED coolant changes to pastel BROWN, after 1 day in system. What's wrong here ?
(I did clear all my rads with destilled water before installation, rads are new, so this is my first coolant). Will post pictures soon.


----------



## MegaTheJohny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P206GTI*
> 
> Question for everyone, this is the second build that happens the same, the pastel red goes from red to very very dark red, anyone has any idea of why this is happening ? never had an issue with pastel blue berry, or pastel yellow or pastel green,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thnx !!


haha same problem dude....


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> guys...My pastel RED coolant changes to pastel BROWN, after 1 day in system. What's wrong here ?
> (I did clear all my rads with destilled water before installation, rads are new, so this is my first coolant). Will post pictures soon.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P206GTI*
> 
> Question for everyone, this is the second build that happens the same, the pastel red goes from red to very very dark red, anyone has any idea of why this is happening ? never had an issue with pastel blue berry, or pastel yellow or pastel green,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thnx !!


Most likely rads are still dirty with flux. What rads do you have?


----------



## MegaTheJohny

I am using EK rads...as I sad.. I flush each rad 6-8 times before installation....shouldn't be dirty?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> I am using EK rads...as I sad.. I flush each rad 6-8 times before installation....shouldn't be dirty?


im going to be using ice white. I have xspc rad and have washed them multiple times with distilled water. You're better off getting the blitz pro kit and flushing the rad with the phosphoric acid, then neutralizing it. That's why I just placed the order for it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Did you guys heat the water to help getting out the flux during the multiple flushes?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Did you guys heat the water to help getting out the flux during the multiple flushes?


That won't work necessarily because when you have it the water being pump through the loop during regular use, will warm up by itself. I would just pay the $40 and get the blitz pro, and flush the rads


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That won't work necessarily because when you have it the water being pump through the loop during regular use, will warm up by itself. I would just pay the $40 and get the blitz pro, and flush the rads


Before the Blitz that is the way people use to do it you known? In fact a lot of people still use the old trust method (hot water-shake-flush) exactly to get rid of the flux and gunk inside the rad. Blitz was invented due to problems with OCool rads that were surprisingly resilient to this treatment and caused so much problems with fluid colors changing. Things seems to be changing on the Ocool front (which is a good thing). Personally I blitz my rads these days after the flush with hot water method but not all are willing to pay another US40 for the blitz and for most rads a well done flush is enough.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Before the Blitz that is the way people use to do it you known? In fact a lot of people still use the old trust method (hot water-shake-flush) exactly to get rid of the flux and gunk inside the rad. Blitz was invented due to problems with OCool rads that were surprisingly resilient to this treatment and caused so much problems with fluid colors changing. Things seems to be changing on the Ocool front (which is a good thing). Personally I blitz my rads these days after the flush with hot water method but not all are willing to pay another US40 for the blitz and for most rads a well done flush is enough.


I flushed mine with distilled multiple times. I wanted to try a 1:4 ratio of white distilled vinegar and distilled water. Then flushed them 2-3 times with distilled. My dads are clean as heck. I'm just buying th blitz kit because the vinegar may have brought the pH levels down. From what I understand, the mayhems coolants change due to pH not being neutral.

EDIT!! My bad. I thought you were the one saying the coolant changed. That's why I quoted it. Sorry about that. Thought you were asking if other people use hot water flush too. Lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I flushed mine with distilled multiple times. I wanted to try a 1:4 ratio of white distilled vinegar and distilled water. Then flushed them 2-3 times with distilled. My dads are clean as heck. I'm just buying th blitz kit because the vinegar may have brought the pH levels down. From what I understand, the mayhems coolants change due to pH not being neutral.


again. Only flushing with distill does not get rid of the flux and solder gunk inside the rad. You need to warm the water to accomplish that. That was my point which you seem to be missing...An btw, why would the PH change inside the rads? Have you asked yourself that?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> again. Only flushing with distill does not get rid of the flux and solder gunk inside the rad. You need to warm the water to accomplish that. That was my point which you seem to be missing...


Re-read my last post







I thought you were the one posting and asking about the warm water. Sorry.


----------



## SteezyTN

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> An btw, why would the PH change inside the rads? Have you asked yourself that?


because I ran vinegar through them.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Re-read my last post


No need to. I understood exactly what you did. I was not even talking to you in the first place. I was trying to help the two guys with pastel changing color and asked if the flush was done with hot water. Then you said that was not going to work because water will warm inside the loop







Care to explain why the most trusted and widespread method of cleaning rads would not work for me?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No need to. I understood exactly what you did. I was not even talking to you in the first place. I was trying to help the two guys with pastel changing color and asked if the flush was done with hot water. Then you said that was not going to work because water will warm inside the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Care to explain why the most trusted and widespread method of cleaning rads would not work for me?


Seriously? I said I misunderstood what you read, and I thought you were asking others if warm water will flush out flux and what not.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Seriously? I said I misunderstood what you read, and I thought you were asking others if warm water will flush out flux and what not.


go back to the last page and you will see to whom I was talking to mate. When you said you misunderstood I already have posted another reply. Let's get back to the problem at hand which is the folks with changing red pastel to brown.


----------



## USMC Modder

Here's some pics from my build Project Frostbyte. There are more posted in my build log. I used pastel white with blue dye for the color.


----------



## SteezyTN

But anyways, maybe blitz pro would be the best option as of April 2015. That's the only reason why I bought it. I would rather spend an extra $40 than to keep on spending $40 on coolant that will keep changing colors. When I talked to mayhem, he made it sound like the water can change pH's due to the radiators. I just don't want to risk it, because I ran the vinegar solution. My goal is for the white pastel to stay white for at least a year.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Depends on where you go. Walmart sells it for .89 but at CVS its 1.50. Its still cheap enough to not bother me.


Yeah i got mine at the local Harding's grocery market (a spartan subsidiary type store) in michigan and it was buy one get one free, so i got two gallons for like $1.39. Only used 2/3rds of a gallon on my entire loop with 3 rads (120.3, 120.4 and 140.3) Two GTX TITAN X EK blocks, an EK Dual Parallel Bridge, and an EK Supremacy Evo CSQ Block; even using a relatively large 250mm EK X3 Cylinder Res. And this is including the fact that i had a leak on my EK XTC 420 rad from the g1/4 plugs that blocked the extra 2 ports on the backside not having o-rings for some reason. So one gallon should be plenty for any build, unless we're talking one of the insane Caselabs TX-10 type builds that use four 480 monsta rads + a MOR A3 + 120 rads on the exhausts etc... then you might need a couple lol.


----------



## P206GTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Most likely rads are still dirty with flux. What rads do you have?


Well I flushed all radiators with same technique, about 2 hours with this method, hot water, a very heavy duty water pump, and a water filter



All were new rads, alphacool UT60 480, but in a previous rig happened the exact same thing, it is curious that only happens to just red, in my rig I have 4 loops and none of the other changed the colour ...


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Yeah i got mine at the local Harding's grocery market (a spartan subsidiary type store) in michigan and it was buy one get one free, so i got two gallons for like $1.39. Only used 2/3rds of a gallon on my entire loop with 3 rads (120.3, 120.4 and 140.3) Two GTX TITAN X EK blocks, an EK Dual Parallel Bridge, and an EK Supremacy Evo CSQ Block; even using a relatively large 250mm EK X3 Cylinder Res. And this is including the fact that i had a leak on my EK XTC 420 rad from the g1/4 plugs that blocked the extra 2 ports on the backside not having o-rings for some reason. So one gallon should be plenty for any build, unless we're talking one of the insane Caselabs TX-10 type builds that use four 480 monsta rads + a MOR A3 + 120 rads on the exhausts etc... then you might need a couple lol.


Mine's almost 2 gallons lol.

Speaking of which, wrap up the testing on that tubing and throw it on sale...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P206GTI*
> 
> Well I flushed all radiators with same technique, about 2 hours with this method, hot water, a very heavy duty water pump, and a water filter
> 
> 
> 
> All were new rads, alphacool UT60 480, but in a previous rig happened the exact same thing, it is curious that only happens to just red, in my rig I have 4 loops and none of the other changed the colour ...


That is a good way to clean the rads. But I would still mix that way with hot-shake-flush method until the water coming out of the rads is clear. Combining both (filter pond pump+shake-hot flush) is what I did in the enthoo primo build that used the red pastel and OCool rads and didn't have a problem with changing colors. Red apparently is more sensitive and change color more easily. In any case, since you are using OCool rads if you can afford the money and patience to order it I would get the blitz kit for those rads.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P206GTI*
> 
> Question for everyone, this is the second build that happens the same, the pastel red goes from red to very very dark red, anyone has any idea of why this is happening ? never had an issue with pastel blue berry, or pastel yellow or pastel green,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thnx !!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> guys...My pastel RED coolant changes to pastel BROWN, after 1 day in system. What's wrong here ?
> (I did clear all my rads with destilled water before installation, rads are new, so this is my first coolant). Will post pictures soon.


Check pH. Simple as that. Red is somewhat sensitive to pH changes. This is universal through any type of coolant. Since pastel is also relatively sensitive to pH it's exacerbated when you have red pastel. Do a proper acid flush & neutralizing flush, (blitz kit), then retry. If your pastel discolours after that I'll eat my hat.

-Z


----------



## MegaTheJohny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Check pH. Simple as that. Red is somewhat sensitive to pH changes. This is universal through any type of coolant. Since pastel is also relatively sensitive to pH it's exacerbated when you have red pastel. Do a proper acid flush & neutralizing flush, (blitz kit), then retry. If your pastel discolours after that I'll eat my hat.
> 
> -Z


Well next time I'll just buy pre-mixed coolant. Do you think that pre-mixed coolant will solve my problem?


----------



## gdubc

If your rads are still dirty its probably not going to help at all, you would just be setting yourself up for color change round 2.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> Well next time I'll just buy pre-mixed coolant. Do you think that pre-mixed coolant will solve my problem?


As of now, you should just put the $40 toward the blitz pro kit. By doing that, you'd save money, rather than having to buy new coolant because it changed colors in a matter of days/months. That's the only reason I bought it from PPCS


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Mine's almost 2 gallons lol.
> 
> Speaking of which, wrap up the testing on that tubing and throw it on sale...


Wow....that's a large build lol.

And, testing on tubing? I finished my leak testing and stuff, got my build up and running just having windows 8.1 blue screen errors. Just made a recovery drive which might help fix it.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Wow....that's a large build lol.
> 
> And, testing on tubing? I finished my leak testing and stuff, got my build up and running just having windows 8.1 blue screen errors. Just made a recovery drive which might help fix it.


haha, I was meaning Mayhems tubing. They are doing the final testing on it before releasing it.


----------



## Mayhem

We have it in several builds atm how all seem to be doing well. If all goes well you'll be looking with in the next four weeks we may place a larger order and put it up for sale. We are considering only selling it only via Mayhems to keep the cost low as possible as Primochill is selling for a ludicrous £28.00 for 3 meters wich is a pathetic rip off here in the UK. £9.30 per meter that is nearly $15.00 Pfft yeh right we need to sort that out ........









Pic of it running in my work PC ive just built. You can see its making the new pastel Pop


----------



## Mayhem

Would user prefer to purchase tubing in 1 meter, 3 meter or 5 Meter lengths.

The longer the length the cheaper we can do it... and we are going to be aggressive on pricing.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Would user prefer to purchase tubing in 1 meter, 3 meter or 5 Meter lengths.
> 
> The longer the length the cheaper we can do it... and we are going to be aggressive on pricing.


3m is what I would buy.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Would user prefer to purchase tubing in 1 meter, 3 meter or 5 Meter lengths.
> 
> The longer the length the cheaper we can do it... and we are going to be aggressive on pricing.


Depending on how much better it is I would buy either 3 or 5 metres - always good to have spare









Mark


----------



## superericla

3m seems like a pretty typical length.


----------



## VSG

I am on board the 3m lengths as well, but would like to see resellers across the world to carry this too if possible.


----------



## USMC Modder

I agree that 3 meters is a great length.


----------



## Ramzinho

Well i agree with the guys. 3m seems fine. however if 5m is cheaper to make like let's stay 3m is 20$ and 5m is 28 i think people wouldn't mind the 5m at all. in the end i don't think most of users will need more than 3m for a normal build.


----------



## Nornam

I'll be looking for some flexy tubing soon myself & 3m or 5m would be good as far s I'm concerned







, but as has been said, always best to get more than not enough








...

Nam..


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Would user prefer to purchase tubing in 1 meter, 3 meter or 5 Meter lengths.
> 
> The longer the length the cheaper we can do it... and we are going to be aggressive on pricing.


Depending on the gap in price I'd go for 5m. It's always good to have extra on hand in case you accidentally misplace a piece when disassembling/etc, or knick the end, and have to cut of a section to make a proper seat and it ends up being too short.

You could also consider sending bulk rolls to various retailers, and let users purchase by the meter, or foot if you're an imperialist swine.









-Z


----------



## FrancisJF

Will they have different sizes too? Cause I have 3/8x5/8 compression fittings.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> haha, I was meaning Mayhems tubing. They are doing the final testing on it before releasing it.


Oh, lol. I thought you were talking to me about the tubing.


----------



## Mayhem

Tubing is being finalized now and we are placing large orders this week. The turnaround time is 4 to 6 weeks. We will need a few days for QCing it all as well due to the amounts we will have to check.

Nam check PMs bud

Mick


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Tubing is being finalized now and we are placing large orders this week. The turnaround time is 4 to 6 weeks. We will need a few days for QCing it all as well due to the amounts we will have to check.
> 
> Nam check PMs bud [quote/]
> 
> Mick


Replied..... Cheers Mick









Nam...


----------



## paultoke

Hi
I have just finished a build in which i used mayhems silver Aurora 2.
I really like the look of the silver Aurora but the pipework is a little transparent if you get what I mean.
My question is this, is there a way of retaining the silver colour but make it less transparent.
I don't mind it being darker but would like the colour to be in keeping with the build i.e go with the red and black.
Is there a different colour that you think may work with this colour scheme?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Paul

Pictures of my build so you can see what i mean.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paultoke*
> 
> Hi
> I have just finished a build in which i used mayhems silver Aurora 2.
> I really like the look of the silver Aurora but the pipework is a little transparent if you get what I mean.
> My question is this, is there a way of retaining the silver colour but make it less transparent.
> I don't mind it being darker but would like the colour to be in keeping with the build i.e go with the red and black.
> Is there a different colour that you think may work with this colour scheme?
> Any help would be much appreciated.
> Thanks
> Paul
> 
> Pictures of my build so you can see what i mean.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


3 questions come to mind.

Is that picture with your system on or off?

What radiators do you have in that system?

What pump do you have, and what RPM if adjustable?

Aurora should pearlecent, not just opaque.

-Z


----------



## paultoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 3 questions come to mind.
> 
> Is that picture with your system on or off?
> 
> What radiators do you have in that system?
> 
> What pump do you have, and what RPM if adjustable?
> 
> Aurora should pearlecent, not just opaque.
> 
> -Z


The system was switched on although the led lights are a little bright.

Radiators are Magicool G2 Slim 360mm and 120mm

The pump is a EK-D5 PWM running about 50%

Picture with pump off


----------



## Mayhem

Pump needs to be full on or at least 75% and yes it looks wired. You can add red dye or any colour dye we make how ever you should have a swirling effect


----------



## paultoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pump needs to be full on or at least 75% and yes it looks wired. You can add red dye or any colour dye we make how ever you should have a swirling effect


I tried the pump and it makes only a little difference.

I was looking for something more like the fluid you did for James (Parvum Warefare).
I have all your dies and have wasted a lot of fluid already trying to make a colour I like.
As you have said yourself, it is not as easy as mixing the primary colours to make the colour you want.

I have plenty of red Aurora 2 but I think there would be too much red in the build.

Oh well it looks like more play and pray lol

Thanks

Paul


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paultoke*
> 
> I tried the pump and it makes only a little difference.
> 
> *I was looking for something more like the fluid you did for James (Parvum Warefare).*
> I have all your dies and have wasted a lot of fluid already trying to make a colour I like.
> As you have said yourself, it is not as easy as mixing the primary colours to make the colour you want.
> 
> I have plenty of red Aurora 2 but I think there would be too much red in the build.
> 
> Oh well it looks like more play and pray lol
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Paul


James mixed Aurora 2 with some dyes if I remember correctly.

Edit: He mixed it with Oil Black concentrate. Found the post.


Spoiler: Taken from James' buildlog


----------



## paultoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> James mixed Aurora 2 with some dyes if I remember correctly.
> 
> Edit: He mixed it with Oil Black concentrate. Found the post.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Taken from James' buildlog


Excellent thanks that was just what i was looking for.

Order placed


----------



## LandonAaron

So I still don't understand what the PH meter included in the blitz kit is for exactly. The instruction manual only gives details on how to calibrate it and has no mention of when in the cleaning process it should come into play.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So I still don't understand what the PH meter included in the blitz kit is for exactly. The instruction manual only gives details on how to calibrate it and has no mention of when in the cleaning process it should come into play.


Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe it is to calculate the pH of water in the radiator. Mayhem a mentioned to me before that I take a small sample from the rad to see if it's neutral. That's my only guess. I just purchased the pro kit, and the delivery is for the 5th.

For me, I ran a distiller vinegar and water solution to flush my rads, and now every time, my water taste acidy. I need to neutralize the radiators because I'm using the pastel ice white.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paultoke*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 3 questions come to mind.
> 
> Is that picture with your system on or off?
> 
> What radiators do you have in that system?
> 
> What pump do you have, and what RPM if adjustable?
> 
> Aurora should pearlecent, not just opaque.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> The system was switched on although the led lights are a little bright.
> 
> Radiators are Magicool G2 Slim 360mm and 120mm
> 
> The pump is a EK-D5 PWM running about 50%
> 
> Picture with pump off
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paultoke*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pump needs to be full on or at least 75% and yes it looks wired. You can add red dye or any colour dye we make how ever you should have a swirling effect
> 
> 
> 
> I tried the pump and it makes only a little difference.
> 
> I was looking for something more like the fluid you did for James (Parvum Warefare).
> I have all your dies and have wasted a lot of fluid already trying to make a colour I like.
> As you have said yourself, it is not as easy as mixing the primary colours to make the colour you want.
> 
> I have plenty of red Aurora 2 but I think there would be too much red in the build.
> 
> Oh well it looks like more play and pray lol
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Paul
Click to expand...

Does your waterblocks have injection plates? If so strip em. Also might want to try dual pumps.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So I still don't understand what the PH meter included in the blitz kit is for exactly. The instruction manual only gives details on how to calibrate it and has no mention of when in the cleaning process it should come into play.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So I still don't understand what the PH meter included in the blitz kit is for exactly. The instruction manual only gives details on how to calibrate it and has no mention of when in the cleaning process it should come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe it is to calculate the pH of water in the radiator. Mayhem a mentioned to me before that I take a small sample from the rad to see if it's neutral. That's my only guess. I just purchased the pro kit, and the delivery is for the 5th.
> 
> For me, I ran a distiller vinegar and water solution to flush my rads, and now every time, my water taste acidy. I need to neutralize the radiators because I'm using the pastel ice white.
Click to expand...

pretry much this ^^^

It's to make sure there's no acidic contaminants in the rads prior to filling. Also to test coolant pH, it should be around 7

-Z


----------



## akira749

I recently dismantled my Ergo Proxy rig. The coolant was a limited run of X1 UV Emerald Green that Mick offered about 2 years ago.

The coolant has been in my system from October 6th 2013 until April 19th 2015. The rig was a folder so it was running 24/7 all year long.

The coolant never lost it's color and was still UV reactive not as strong as it was in 2013 but still has a very nice glow!

Thanks again @Mayhem for that kind of quality product!

This is a picture I took on april 19th.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I recently dismantled my Ergo Proxy rig. The coolant was a limited run of X1 UV Emerald Green that Mick offered about 2 years ago.
> 
> The coolant has been in my system from October 6th 2013 until April 19th 2015. The rig was a folder so it was running 24/7 all year long.
> 
> The coolant never lost it's color and was still UV reactive not as strong as it was in 2013 but still has a very nice glow!
> 
> Thanks again @Mayhem for that kind of quality product!
> 
> This is a picture I took on april 19th.


really impressive akira.. really impressive. Thanks Mick and Mayhem for the good products.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I recently dismantled my Ergo Proxy rig. The coolant was a limited run of X1 UV Emerald Green that Mick offered about 2 years ago.
> 
> The coolant has been in my system from October 6th 2013 until April 19th 2015. The rig was a folder so it was running 24/7 all year long.
> 
> The coolant never lost it's color and was still UV reactive not as strong as it was in 2013 but still has a very nice glow!
> 
> Thanks again @Mayhem for that kind of quality product!
> 
> This is a picture I took on april 19th.


Stunning build! What are you going to refill with? Same thing, or something new?

-Z


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> really impressive akira.. really impressive. Thanks Mick and Mayhem for the good products.


Thanks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Stunning build! What are you going to refill with? Same thing, or something new?
> 
> -Z


Thanks!

It won't be refilled but dismantled and the parts sold.

Since I have an addiction with builds







, when a new build starts, an older one must go.

I try to keep the count at 5 at the same time. 1 daily/gaming, 1 htpc, 3 folding....i know i know i'm crazy but hey it's ok


----------



## corysti

Does anyone know the combination to get a neon orange In pastel?


----------



## kitg90

Might be a stupid question but for Part 1 is there like stuff we can't pour it in since it's acid. Are plastic bottles fine?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Might be a stupid question but for Part 1 is there like stuff we can't pour it in since it's acid. Are plastic bottles fine?


Haha good question. I would like to know too. My kit is coming on the 7th, and I'm going to be cleaning my rads when the semester is over.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Looks like the kit uses phosphoric acid so most likely polycarbonate/polystyrene/polypropylene bottles should do.

http://www.corning.com/lifesciences/us_canada/en/technical_resources/product_guid/bottles/selecting_material.aspx


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

For the new non-stain dyes, I saw some pictures of various concentrations like so:



Is there more data to go along with those pictures such as the mL of coolant in the bottle and how many drops were added to each bottle? I'm trying to get an idea of how much to order. Also, deep red can be accomplished using some blue drops with the red, correct?


----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Is there more data to go along with those pictures such as the mL of coolant in the bottle and how many drops were added to each bottle? I'm trying to get an idea of how much to order. Also, deep red can be accomplished using some blue drops with the red, correct?


If they are like the old dyes, it would probably be best to experiment. I used a blue dye and got a concentration similar to that of 4 from the right. I re-did my system about 5 times with the same bottle and I am pretty sure I still have heaps left.

It all depends on tubing thickness, res size, loop size that I would think measurements would be pretty useless (and could cause problems for mayhems).

I would think that one bottle would work fine for a system or more (if its similar to the old dyes) Start with a small amount in the system then add to get the concentration you wish. I usually do that while the system is running.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> It all depends on tubing thickness, res size, loop size that I would think measurements would be pretty useless (and could cause problems for mayhems).


Right, however, you can measure exactly how much fluid you've put in your loop so if you have a basis to go by such as n drops in X mL of fluid gives Y color intensity, you can calculate how many drops needed in your loop to get the desired effect. Of course, lightning, setting, and your monitor play a big role in how it looks on screen vs inside your chassis.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> For the new non-stain dyes, I saw some pictures of various concentrations like so:
> 
> 
> 
> Is there more data to go along with those pictures such as the mL of coolant in the bottle and how many drops were added to each bottle? I'm trying to get an idea of how much to order. Also, deep red can be accomplished using some blue drops with the red, correct?


i asked Mick when he released it.. Same question. is there a recipe for each of those colors. he said no it's probably iterations of 1 drop per color. the Dye is so strong. so i would suggest you go easy on it and try a drop at a time.

typically one bottle is enough though.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

I'm thinking 3 bottles of red and 1 of blue to have enough for a few drains: http://www.overclock.net/t/1282125/mayhems-dyes-colour-mixing-tips/0_20#post_17716407


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I'm thinking 3 bottles of red and 1 of blue to have enough for a few drains: http://www.overclock.net/t/1282125/mayhems-dyes-colour-mixing-tips/0_20#post_17716407


remember this wasn't the new DYE.. the new ones seem more powerful.


----------



## Mayhem

You should only need 1 bottle per loop and the blue non staye dye is ULTRA STRONG .....


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Thanks. Unfortunately there's no smaller size for the blue so I'll have tons of that leftover after I run out of the red. One entire bottle of red for a loop wouldn't be overkill?


----------



## mikeyelo

I'm thinking about joining the mayhems users club by buying some X1 blood red concentrate for my build. Will it clog my system, and mayhems website says that 250ml makes up for 2 liters. Will the color still be strong.(If the answer to my clog question is yes, than how would you make blood red with just dyes?) I have seen the video on how to make blood red but I think it's too much of a hassle to do that I would want to make by just adding dye.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeyelo*
> 
> I'm thinking about joining the mayhems users club by buying some X1 blood red concentrate for my build. Will it clog my system, and mayhems website says that 250ml makes up for 2 liters. Will the color still be strong.(If the answer to my clog question is yes, than how would you make blood red with just dyes?) I have seen the video on how to make blood red but I think it's too much of a hassle to do that I would want to make by just adding dye.


it's not a nano fluid. so no clogging to be expected.


----------



## mikeyelo

Ok thank you


----------



## mikeyelo

Does anyone happen to know how to make blood red purely out of dyes? That would save me more money then buying the concentrate


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeyelo*
> 
> Does anyone happen to know how to make blood red purely out of dyes? That would save me more money then buying the concentrate


Just buy the non stain Dyes.. blue and Red.. mick has said how it's done before.


----------



## mikeyelo

Ok got it


----------



## LandonAaron

Does X1 concentrate or coolant help to lubricate the pumps or something to keep them in good working order? Reason I ask is that I had an XSPC X20 pump that had starting making some pretty ugly loud noises while on distilled water. I switched to X1 clear concentrate at the recommended 1:9 ratio and lo and behold after a few days with that in the loop the pump went back to its normal quiet operation. I am pretty sure it wasn't air causing the noise either, as the loop had been running for several weeks on distilled water already when it started making the noise so it seems unlikely air suddenly got in there.


----------



## mikeyelo

Can someone post a link or quote how mayhems made their blood red coolant with non stain dyes?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeyelo*
> 
> Can someone post a link or quote how mayhems made their blood red coolant with non stain dyes?


With blood of course. Non staining virgins blood collected by the light of a full moon.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mikeyelo*
> 
> Can someone post a link or quote how mayhems made their blood red coolant with non stain dyes?
> 
> 
> 
> With blood of course. Non staining virgins blood collected by the light of a full moon.
Click to expand...

Well crap, . . . .

That explains why I've been so pale and feeling so anemic every month lately.









Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Well crap, . . . .
> 
> That explains why I've been so pale and feeling so anemic every month lately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Lol


----------



## mikeyelo

Can mayhems answer this question?


----------



## mikeyelo

Nvm I'll just by the x1


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeyelo*
> 
> I'm thinking about joining the mayhems users club by buying some X1 blood red concentrate for my build. Will it clog my system, and mayhems website says that 250ml makes up for 2 liters. Will the color still be strong.(If the answer to my clog question is yes, than how would you make blood red with just dyes?) I have seen the video on how to make blood red but I think it's too much of a hassle to do that I would want to make by just adding dye.


No fluid will clog your system if used properly. The only coolant I can think of that will legitimately cause a blockage is XT-1 if used incorrectly. XT-1, or any glycol based coolant, will react with CuSo4 (cupric (II) Sulphate) i.e. I&H Deadwater, Mayhems Biocide extreme, PT Nuke, etc. Color should be strong. Blood red with dyes is red with a tid bit of blue.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mikeyelo*
> 
> I'm thinking about joining the mayhems users club by buying some X1 blood red concentrate for my build. Will it clog my system, and mayhems website says that 250ml makes up for 2 liters. Will the color still be strong.(If the answer to my clog question is yes, than how would you make blood red with just dyes?) I have seen the video on how to make blood red but I think it's too much of a hassle to do that I would want to make by just adding dye.
> 
> 
> 
> it's not a nano fluid. so no clogging to be expected.
Click to expand...

Nano fluids won't clog your system. Cyphon did the math a while back but it is realistically impossible for the nanoparticles to bind together in such a way to cause a big enough blockage to clog your loop. What /can/ happen is if you have a mechanical flow meter the particles can get lodged in the bearing, and the non-moving flow meter will cause a LOT of restriction, but that's a different story all together.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeyelo*
> 
> Does anyone happen to know how to make blood red purely out of dyes? That would save me more money then buying the concentrate


Concentrate is cheaper. I've already covered how to make blood red, see my response in this direction ^^^

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Does X1 concentrate or coolant help to lubricate the pumps or something to keep them in good working order? Reason I ask is that I had an XSPC X20 pump that had starting making some pretty ugly loud noises while on distilled water. I switched to X1 clear concentrate at the recommended 1:9 ratio and lo and behold after a few days with that in the loop the pump went back to its normal quiet operation. I am pretty sure it wasn't air causing the noise either, as the loop had been running for several weeks on distilled water already when it started making the noise so it seems unlikely air suddenly got in there.


Mayhems coolants do contain surfactants, which break surface tension i.e. a lubricant, but that's unlikely to fix anything. What /may/ have happened is you may have had a piece of debris stuck in the intake/outtake and it was messing with the impeller. Just my theory.

-Z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeyelo*
> 
> Can someone post a link or quote how mayhems made their blood red coolant with non stain dyes?


Same combo, red and blue.

-Z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeyelo*
> 
> Can mayhems answer this question?


Mick's in the UK mate, it's like 4AM there.









-Z


----------



## mikeyelo

I actually think dyes will be cheaper since I don't want to buy more coolant every time I refill my loop


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeyelo*
> 
> I actually think dyes will be cheaper since I don't want to buy more coolant every time I refill my loop


Fair enough, but plan your loop accordingly. Coolant is good for up to 2 years, and can be drained/reused during that time span. It also has biocides, corrosion inhibitors, surfacants, and pH balancers. If you don't use a coolant, you need some form of biocide. Red is sensitive to pH so I'd advise against copper sulphate. Silver products are no good with nickle products. Benzyle chloride will obliterate dyes. Be sure to have some form of antimicrobial.

Cheers

-Z


----------



## mikeyelo

Oh, I never knew you can reuse the coolant


----------



## SteezyTN

So someone posted a few post back about the part 1 kit of the pro kit regarding the safety and handling of it. Even though it says it can be washed down the drain, what's the best container to mix the solution.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So someone posted a few post back about the part 1 kit of the pro kit regarding the safety and handling of it. Even though it says it can be washed down the drain, what's the best container to mix the solution.


Polyurethane, i.e. plastic, should work fine. Be sure to wear the appropriate safety materials. IMHO I'd run down to the store and grab a HEPA respirator. It /shouldn't/ be dangerous but if it's anything like hydrochloric acid once the vapor gets in your nose it'll smell like death and burning nose hairs for the better half of the rest of your day.

-Z


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Polyurethane, i.e. plastic, should work fine. Be sure to wear the appropriate safety materials. IMHO I'd run down to the store and grab a HEPA respirator. It /shouldn't/ be dangerous but if it's anything like hydrochloric acid once the vapor gets in your nose it'll smell like death and burning nose hairs for the better half of the rest of your day.
> 
> -Z


Thanks. Appreciate the help. I may just do that, or even a bandana and cover my nose area. Of course it's not needed, but you're right it talking the extra precautions. The kit is suppose to arrive till Thursday, but I'm going to assemble my loop and get the PETG in the right bends and cuts. Then I'll take the loop down and use the solution.


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*


Request tubing , I have had to compromise my loop because EK only make 500mm tube..not long enough !1m is good here in New Zealand as shipment for long lengths can be very expensive, can you arrange shipment to ur NZ suppliers please in 1 - 3 or 5m lengths , or I need to buy 1m lengths

Hope it bends as well as EK tube..I love working with stuff , for some reason no matter what I tried I could not get nice bends with E22 tube

Thanks Bert


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Polyurethane, i.e. plastic, should work fine. Be sure to wear the appropriate safety materials. IMHO I'd run down to the store and grab a HEPA respirator. It /shouldn't/ be dangerous but if it's anything like hydrochloric acid once the vapor gets in your nose it'll smell like death and burning nose hairs for the better half of the rest of your day.
> 
> -Z


Polyurethane isn't a plastic, it's an elastomer. Just get an HDPE bottle and call it a day.

"Phosphoric Acid: Compatible with HDPE and glass"
Source: http://engineering.tufts.edu/microfab/documents/chemList.pdf

"Phosphoric acid 10% LDPE / HDPE at 20C°-50C° show little or no damage after 30 days of constant exposure.
Phosphoric acid 85% LDPE / HDPE at 20C° show little or no damage after 30 days of constant exposure. LDPE at 50C° shows immediate damage and is not recommended."
Source: http://www.calpaclab.com/chemical-compatibility-charts/

Phosphoric Acid Ka = 0.0071
1. Strong acids are listed at the top left hand corner of the table and have Ka values >1
2. Acid with values less than one are considered weak.
Source: http://depts.washington.edu/eooptic/links/acidstrength.html

Check Corning's "Chemical Resistance and Thermal Durability Guide" for more options:
www.corning.com/lifesciences/us_canada/en/technical_resources/product_guid/bottles/selecting_material.aspx


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Thumbs up on quick processing and shipping btw. I ordered 3 bottles of non-stain red and 1 of non-stain blue last night and it shipped early this morning.


----------



## Mayhem

We have released pricing for the tubing i think it will make many people happy and upset many companies at the same time







. We wont post it on here but its on our facebook and twitter and any user on here can say the cost but we cannot with out braking the rules.

Feed back from users is very good so were looking forwards to seeing what others think







.


----------



## Ramzinho

7.5$ For 3m
12$ for 5m O.O

OMG this is insane.. Yes other vendors will be sad


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> 7.5$ For 3m
> 12$ for 5m O.O
> 
> OMG this is insane.. Yes other vendors will be sad


You gotta be joking. Advanced LRT 10 foot packs are ~$30 a piece. A 5m (16 foot) pack is only $12? Damn that is good pricing for flexible tubing.


----------



## The EX1

Sad to see no 7/16 ID x 5/8 OD tubing







I prefer the 7/16 ID on 1/2 fittings for a tighter seal.

The tubing looks great though!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

$12.17 for 16.40 feet so 74 cents per foot. Wonder how it holds up to Durelene.


----------



## Mayhem

We will look at other sizes later on, how ever we would like to see how this fares. We are also are going to look at coloured tubing too (colours will be diffrent). ETA is 3 weeks btw.


----------



## The EX1

Looking forward to it Mick! I really hope you offer a "true" red tubing. Primochill's red LRT is orange and not red.


----------



## M3TAl

I am also a fan of the 7/16 ID x 5/8 OD and use it. Still not disappointed, that pricing


----------



## VSG

Good stuff. Hoping other retailers carry it too, the pricing is very aggressive and in line with what I thought about tubing being overpriced all this time.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Looking forward to it Mick! I really hope you offer a "true" red tubing. Primochill's red LRT is orange and not red.




I dunno. I think its pretty red. Never the less, I am glad to see some competition. Here is hoping for 5/8 x 7/16" tubing for in the future. Too much invested in compression fittings to switch to different size.
I am also curious to see the bend radius compared to primochill's. I just got meter of PrimoChill in and it seems they improved their bend radius. It is much more flexible than my old Primochill tubing. Does tubing stiffen with age?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have released pricing for the tubing i think it will make many people happy and upset many companies at the same time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . We wont post it on here but its on our facebook and twitter and any user on here can say the cost but we cannot with out braking the rules.
> 
> Feed back from users is very good so were looking forwards to seeing what others think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Very nice pricing!!!


----------



## Ramzinho

In my Opinion with how vibrant the Mayhem colors are, and how Mick said the tubing make the Colors pop. i believe it's best to use Clear/Pastel white coolants + non stain dye.


----------



## DNMock

No "Buy Now" or "pre-order" option is a deal breaker for me. I won't be buying any of it until that issue has been fixed...


----------



## mikeyelo

Will the tubing be sold in America too?


----------



## Mayhem

10/13mm has been added to the order. Pricing will be released once we figure out the costs. As for USA thats up to PPC.


----------



## mikeyelo

Ok because if the tubing is sold in the USA too then I will save lots of money(advanced lrt is expensive)


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> As for USA thats up to PPC.


So, 1.5x the cost compared to your online store and 2x the cost for shipping? =D


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeyelo*
> 
> Ok because if the tubing is sold in the USA too then I will save lots of money(advanced lrt is expensive)


That's why I'm making the switch and trying Durelene tubing, which can be bought (1/2 3/4 size) for 80 cents a foot vs $2.75 for Advanced LRT and using Mayhem's non-stain dye to get the same effect (actually better since I like the look of colored water in clear tubing more than just having colored tubing).


----------



## mikeyelo

Well I'm using advanced lrt because I don't want any plastecizer problems


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

That's what I'm using now, the red colored version of their tubing. Since I found out Mayhems started to make non-stain dye, I'd much rather use cheaper clear tubing and dye. The colored water in clear tubing just looks WAY better especially since the reservoir water will be colored too.

Here's a pro thread I found on tubing: http://www.overclock.net/t/1380775/what-is-plasticizer/0_20


----------



## Mayhem

Spoke to hank over at PPC when we get the stock in they will be taking on a load for sale in the USA how ever it will go by sea shipment to keep costs down. So yup USA will be getting the tubing.


----------



## SteezyTN

My Pastel Ice White concentrate and Blitz Pro kit arrived last night







I'm going to assemble my loop first for the right lengths and bends in the tubing, then take it all down and start flushing that's radiators. Thanks a lot for all the help to the man himself, Mayhem/mick. Can't wait to start the process.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quick question... I just filled my radiators with part 1 of the blitz pro kit (and I must say I was very close to using all of it). The instructions say to flush it out with di or distilled water. Can I use regular tap water from the sink? I'm running low on the distilled at the moment and I need to pick some up.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quick question... I just filled my radiators with part 1 of the blitz pro kit (and I must say I was very close to using all of it). The instructions say to flush it out with di or distilled water. Can I use regular tap water from the sink? I'm running low on the distilled at the moment and I need to pick some up.


You bought the kit to remove impurities (crap and junk) from your radiators, correct? DI and distilled water is water with the impurities removed. Seems almost pointless to flush it out with tap water after cleaning it.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> You bought the kit to remove impurities (crap and junk) from your radiators, correct? DI and distilled water is water with the impurities removed. Seems almost pointless to flush it out with tap water after cleaning it.


Have you ever even used blitz? I'm asking this question because when I run part 2, it uses distilled water, which would flush out the tap.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> You bought the kit to remove impurities (crap and junk) from your radiators, correct? DI and distilled water is water with the impurities removed. Seems almost pointless to flush it out with tap water after cleaning it.


I believe blitz part 1 is for breaking up the gunk, goop, and flux left over from the manufacturing process and contains some pretty nasty chemicals and is highly acidic. Blitz 2 is for removing impurities and neutralizing the PH.

As long as you plan on using Blitz part 2 afterwards (which you probably should) Tap water to flush out the part 1 of the Blitz shouldn't be an issue.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I believe blitz part 1 is for breaking up the gunk, goop, and flux left over from the manufacturing process and contains some pretty nasty chemicals and is highly acidic. Blitz 2 is for removing impurities and neutralizing the PH.
> 
> As long as you plan on using Blitz part 2 afterwards (which you probably should) Tap water to flush out the part 1 of the Blitz shouldn't be an issue.


I bought the pro kit for that reason. Part 2 should flush out the tap, which is why I was double checking. It would seem pointless for me to purchase gallon after gallon to just throw it away.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Have you ever even used blitz? I'm asking this question because when I run part 2, it uses distilled water, which would flush out the tap.


Not that specifically but a competitor's one. I wouldn't trust part 2 to fully remove the impurities that tap water brings in but I'm sure it would get out more than 99% of them.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Not that specifically but a competitor's one. I wouldn't trust part 2 to fully remove the impurities that tap water brings in but I'm sure it would get out more than 99% of them.


This is your opinion. I was mainly referring to someone who uses THIS kit, or even Mick to respond. I'm very positive that part 2 would remove almost everything


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> This is your opinion. I was mainly referring to someone who uses THIS kit, or even Mick to respond. I'm very positive that part 2 would remove almost everything


It's up to you. Even if it removes "almost everything" (which I consider more than 99% of as I wrote before), there will be a small amount of impurities left in the loop that wouldn't have been there if you flushed it with distilled/deionized in the first place.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> It's up to you. Even if it removes "almost everything" (which I consider more than 99% of as I wrote before), there will be a small amount of impurities left in the loop that wouldn't have been there if you flushed it with distilled/deionized in the first place.


That's what part 2 is for.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

That's what I'm referring to in my post, part 2 of the kit. Honestly, I say just go with the tap water after part 1 if you really want to save the few bucks. Some people don't flush out their rads at all and some do flush them out but only use distilled water to do so (by shaking the hell out of it and emptying the rad until the water that comes out is clean). You'll be much better off than those people with the kit, even if you use tap water after part 1.


----------



## mikeyelo

Thank you mayhems, I'll be glad to get myself some once PPC starts selling it.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quick question... I just filled my radiators with part 1 of the blitz pro kit (and I must say I was very close to using all of it). The instructions say to flush it out with di or distilled water. Can I use regular tap water from the sink? I'm running low on the distilled at the moment and I need to pick some up.


Mix part 1 and part 2 with distilled/deionized water. You can flush with tap water. If you have a filtered tap, or filter on your fridge, or a britta or something like that I'd use that. Lots of calcium and calcium-carbonate in tap water. Shouldn't be an issue, part 2 has a very potent surfactant that should get anything and everything out.

-Z


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Mix part 1 and part 2 with distilled/deionized water. You can flush with tap water. If you have a filtered tap, or filter on your fridge, or a britta or something like that I'd use that. Lots of calcium and calcium-carbonate in tap water. Shouldn't be an issue, part 2 has a very potent surfactant that should get anything and everything out.
> 
> -Z


Thanks. I'm currently letting my radiators sit in the part 1 mixture that I used with distilled water. I understand that both part 1 and 2 are meant to be mixed with only di or distilled. I don't have any of that stuff, so I'll just use tap. It will be much easier as I can just hook it up to my faucet using a piece of tubing, and have it just flush through and out my radiator. Thanks


----------



## SteezyTN

I let the part 1 sit in my radiators about 7 hours. They came out pretty clean, but then again I did the 1:4 ratio of distilled white vinegar and distilled water a few weeks back.



I'm rinsing them out with tap water from the sink at the moment. When I get my loop all together, I'll start part 2.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Changed my computer around a little bit, and changed coolant. I think the pastel sunset yellow matches the MSI mpower board pretty well.


----------



## Barefooter

Are the new non-stain dyes the same as the original except they don't stain?

In other words, does the non-stain blue dye act the same, and give the same coloring as the regular dyes?


----------



## Mayhem

The None stain Dyes are a totally diffrent product than the normal dyes.. They allso look diffrent hence why we have pictures showing the diffrent colour on the web site..


----------



## mikeyelo

Umm so I looked at performance pcs pictures that show the non stain dyes. I think the red/pink ranges from light pink to deep red. I don't know if that's correct


----------



## Mayhem

yes that is correct hence its called Mayhems Non Stain Pink / Red Dye 15ml

http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-none-stain-pink-red-dye-15ml.html you can see the same pics on our site


----------



## mikeyelo

One quick question, can you make the mayhems dark blue color with just blue dye. I'm asking this because performance pcs doesn't sale mayhems dark blue dye.


----------



## Ramzinho

the non stain dye has more wide variant of cololrs. however note that when u use dye with water u will nee biocide. i would recommend going with mayhme X 1 + Mayhem blue non stain dye.


----------



## Jonas75

Hi,
Currently using Biocider Extreme and distilled water in my loop.
Last week I ordered one of your kill coils, should get here early this week.
Is one coils enough for my, smallish, loop?
Loop:
Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360
D5 vario
EK supremacy evo
Phobya Balancer 150
Primochill LRT 10/16 tubing.
All in all it fits ~600ml or so.

Will add a NexXxos XT45 240 to the loop when I upgrade GPU (and get a block for that).
I guess I should get one more till coil then?

Btw, my coolant turns blue (light) after a few days in the loop. I cleaned all parts with distilled water and vinegar(after having seen someone recommend it on YouTube), rinsed it all out with distilled water. Did this with the brand new parts before building the loop. It's been running for about 5-6 months know and I've replaced the coolant once(ran the loop with just distilled water before putting the biocider extreme+distilled water in).
Still, the water turns light blue after a short time in the loop. Any clue as to why?

Edit: corrected some autocorrect errors made by my phone.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonas75*
> 
> Hi,
> Currently using Biocider Extreme and distilled water in my loop.
> Last week I ordered one of your kill coils, should get herr early this week.
> Is one coils enough for my, smallish, loop?
> Loop:
> Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360
> D5 various
> EK supremacy evo
> Phobya Balancer 150
> Primochill LRT 10/16 tubing.
> All in all it fits ~600ml or so.
> 
> Will add a NexXxos XT45 240 to the loop when I upgrade GPU (and get a block for that).
> I guess I should get one more till coil then?
> 
> Btw, my coolant turns blue (light) after a few days in the loop. I cleaned all parts with distilled water and vinegar(after having seen someone recommend it on YouTube), rinsed it all out with distilled water. Did this whit the brand new parts before building the loop. It's been running for about 5-6 months know and I've replaced the coolant once(ran the loop with just distilled water before putting the biocider extreme+distilled water in).
> Still, the water turns light blue after a short time in the loop. Any clue as to why?


No clue on the blue. I wouldn't use a kill coil if you have nickle in your loop anywhere. The silver can react with the nickle causing corrossion.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonas75*
> 
> Hi,
> Currently using Biocider Extreme and distilled water in my loop.
> Last week I ordered one of your kill coils, should get herr early this week.
> Is one coils enough for my, smallish, loop?
> Loop:
> Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360
> D5 various
> EK supremacy evo
> Phobya Balancer 150
> Primochill LRT 10/16 tubing.
> All in all it fits ~600ml or so.
> 
> Will add a NexXxos XT45 240 to the loop when I upgrade GPU (and get a block for that).
> I guess I should get one more till coil then?
> 
> Btw, my coolant turns blue (light) after a few days in the loop. I cleaned all parts with distilled water and vinegar(after having seen someone recommend it on YouTube), rinsed it all out with distilled water. Did this whit the brand new parts before building the loop. It's been running for about 5-6 months know and I've replaced the coolant once(ran the loop with just distilled water before putting the biocider extreme+distilled water in).
> Still, the water turns light blue after a short time in the loop. Any clue as to why?


Sounds like theres some crap left in your rads, i would get a blitz kit, that should clear it up. Also, if you are already using biocide theres no need for a kill coil, just use one or the other.


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Sounds like theres some crap left in your rads, i would get a blitz kit, that should clear it up. Also, if you are already using biocide theres no need for a kill coil, just use one or the other.


Watched the how-to-use videos on these blitz kits just a few days ago, I think it was at the same time as I ordered the kill coil.
I'm kind of leaning towards your conclusion about the discolouration, but also for some reason I think it might be caused by the anti-corrosive I added (forgot to mention that)?
It's aquatuning's own brand IIRC.
Had trouble getting the PH right when I mixed the coolant last time(a bit on the high side).


----------



## Mayhem

Its the rads. Use the blitz kit and you'll be fine







.


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its the rads. Use the blitz kit and you'll be fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks mate, will do when I add a 240 to the loop as I'll have to take it apart anyway then.
And here I thought I was soo thorough clenaing before installing, had the CPU block apart for cleaning, the RES, rinsed the tubing etc etc...
Must have filled and shaked that RAD 10 times with distilled water and vinegar, then rinsed for atleast 10min with tap water and then with 1L distilled water before I was done.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonas75*
> 
> Thanks mate, will do when I add a 240 to the loop as I'll have to take it apart anyway then.
> And here I thought I was soo thorough clenaing before installing, had the CPU block apart for cleaning, the RES, rinsed the tubing etc etc...
> Must have filled and shaked that RAD 10 times with distilled water and vinegar, then rinsed for atleast 10min with tap water and then with 1L distilled water before I was done.


Just blitz it and you'll be fine.


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Just blitz it and you'll be fine.


Will do, when I add the 240 RAD to the loop.
I figured one XT45 360 and one XT45 240 will be enough to cool the 2500K and a R9 290X card.
The 2500K and 360 gives ~60c under stresstest (@ 4.4Ghz), but then my PC is on the floor about 10-15cm from a radiator(not the cooling kind lol), this is out of necessity as I live in a 1 bedroom flat with my fiance and two dobermanns.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonas75*
> 
> Hi,
> Currently using Biocider Extreme and distilled water in my loop.
> Last week I ordered one of your kill coils, should get here early this week.
> Is one coils enough for my, smallish, loop?
> Loop:
> Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360
> D5 vario
> EK supremacy evo
> Phobya Balancer 150
> Primochill LRT 10/16 tubing.
> All in all it fits ~600ml or so.
> 
> Will add a NexXxos XT45 240 to the loop when I upgrade GPU (and get a block for that).
> I guess I should get one more till coil then?
> 
> Btw, my coolant turns blue (light) after a few days in the loop. I cleaned all parts with distilled water and vinegar(after having seen someone recommend it on YouTube), rinsed it all out with distilled water. Did this with the brand new parts before building the loop. It's been running for about 5-6 months know and I've replaced the coolant once(ran the loop with just distilled water before putting the biocider extreme+distilled water in).
> Still, the water turns light blue after a short time in the loop. Any clue as to why?
> 
> Edit: corrected some autocorrect errors made by my phone.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonas75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Sounds like theres some crap left in your rads, i would get a blitz kit, that should clear it up. Also, if you are already using biocide theres no need for a kill coil, just use one or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> Watched the how-to-use videos on these blitz kits just a few days ago, I think it was at the same time as I ordered the kill coil.
> I'm kind of leaning towards your conclusion about the discolouration, but also for some reason I think it might be caused by the anti-corrosive I added (forgot to mention that)?
> It's aquatuning's own brand IIRC.
> Had trouble getting the PH right when I mixed the coolant last time(a bit on the high side).
Click to expand...

Wait, you used Aquatuning corrosion blocker AND Mayhems biocide extreme? As in THIS corrosion blocker? That's ethylene glycol! You just concocted a personal hellstorm mate. Clean that out of your loop ASAP. Ethylene glycol and copper sulphate, i.e. mayhems biocide extreme, will create the infamous gunk. Ethylene glycol on it's own is fine. Copper sulphate on it's own is fine. Mixed together they react with eachother and create a gelatinous gunk. That color may also be from the corrosion blocker. Some EG based corrosion blockers will change color if the pH is wacked out.

-Z


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Wait, you used Aquatuning corrosion blocker AND Mayhems biocide extreme? As in THIS corrosion blocker? That's ethylene glycol! You just concocted a personal hellstorm mate. Clean that out of your loop ASAP. Ethylene glycol and copper sulphate, i.e. mayhems biocide extreme, will create the infamous gunk. Ethylene glycol on it's own is fine. Copper sulphate on it's own is fine. Mixed together they react with eachother and create a gelatinous gunk. That color may also be from the corrosion blocker. Some EG based corrosion blockers will change color if the pH is wacked out.
> 
> -Z


That would be the one...
Though it says on the page you linked that it does not contain glycol, but "Hydroxyphosphoncarbonsäure", säure meaning acid.
On the PH though...had to use 2-3 drops of biocide per L to get it down...that being after adding the antiCorro.
Got to go to the Physiotherapist with our dobermann male today, but after that I might just clean out the loop.
I don't really need the anticorro I think?
The parts are:
Alphacool XT45 360 RAD
EK Supremacy EVO
Phobya Balancer RES
Alphacool VPP655 Vario with HF top
Fittings are: Monsoon, Alphacool, ModMyToys, XPSC
Primochill LRT tubing.


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Wait, you used Aquatuning corrosion blocker AND Mayhems biocide extreme? As in THIS corrosion blocker? That's ethylene glycol! You just concocted a personal hellstorm mate. Clean that out of your loop ASAP. Ethylene glycol and copper sulphate, i.e. mayhems biocide extreme, will create the infamous gunk. Ethylene glycol on it's own is fine. Copper sulphate on it's own is fine. Mixed together they react with eachother and create a gelatinous gunk. That color may also be from the corrosion blocker. Some EG based corrosion blockers will change color if the pH is wacked out.
> 
> -Z


A pic of the discolouration.
Tubing is clear, no colour added to the liquid.
http://s1260.photobucket.com/user/mayday_75/media/PC Build 2014-2015/DSC_4822.jpg.html


----------



## Mayhem

Hydroxyphosphoncarbonsäure is a mix of hydroxy-, phos- phate, carbon, acid..... (according to the german patent and from what i can translate) this is mixed in a glycol to create the biocide and inhibitor (this is breaking it down to a easy understanding). So it should never be mixed with biocide extreme.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonas75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Wait, you used Aquatuning corrosion blocker AND Mayhems biocide extreme? As in THIS corrosion blocker? That's ethylene glycol! You just concocted a personal hellstorm mate. Clean that out of your loop ASAP. Ethylene glycol and copper sulphate, i.e. mayhems biocide extreme, will create the infamous gunk. Ethylene glycol on it's own is fine. Copper sulphate on it's own is fine. Mixed together they react with eachother and create a gelatinous gunk. That color may also be from the corrosion blocker. Some EG based corrosion blockers will change color if the pH is wacked out.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> That would be the one...
> Though it says on the page you linked that it does not contain glycol, but "Hydroxyphosphoncarbonsäure", säure meaning acid.
> On the PH though...had to use 2-3 drops of biocide per L to get it down...that being after adding the antiCorro.
> Got to go to the Physiotherapist with our dobermann male today, but after that I might just clean out the loop.
> I don't really need the anticorro I think?
> The parts are:
> Alphacool XT45 360 RAD
> EK Supremacy EVO
> Phobya Balancer RES
> Alphacool VPP655 Vario with HF top
> Fittings are: Monsoon, Alphacool, ModMyToys, XPSC
> Primochill LRT tubing.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonas75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Wait, you used Aquatuning corrosion blocker AND Mayhems biocide extreme? As in THIS corrosion blocker? That's ethylene glycol! You just concocted a personal hellstorm mate. Clean that out of your loop ASAP. Ethylene glycol and copper sulphate, i.e. mayhems biocide extreme, will create the infamous gunk. Ethylene glycol on it's own is fine. Copper sulphate on it's own is fine. Mixed together they react with eachother and create a gelatinous gunk. That color may also be from the corrosion blocker. Some EG based corrosion blockers will change color if the pH is wacked out.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> A pic of the discolouration.
> Tubing is clear, no colour added to the liquid.
> http://s1260.photobucket.com/user/mayday_75/media/PC Build 2014-2015/DSC_4822.jpg.html
Click to expand...

Hmmm, I really should learn to read German...

If it's not a glycol base, which it's apparently not







you shouldn't have to worry about gunk. However, there's also this:
Quote:


> Use the extra just in "clean" systems. For example, uncleaned radiators can unwanted side effects. No remains of as may be Solder, oils, paints or dirt in the cooling system are. Clean before applying your radiator.


(Courtesy of Google Translate)

Use the Blitz cleaning system to clean out the rads. I'd also not use a liquid biocide if you are using a corrosion blocker. Generally mixing different additives can cause issues with the exception of dyes and things specifically designed to work well with eachother. Most corrosion inhibitors also act as effective biocides as well.

-Z

Edit: Mick ninjaposted me with better info. XD
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hydroxyphosphoncarbonsäure is a mix of hydroxy-, phos- phate, carbon, acid..... (according to the german patent and from what i can translate) this is mixed in a glycol to create the biocide and inhibitor (this is breaking it down to a easy understanding). So it should never be mixed with biocide extreme.


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hydroxyphosphoncarbonsäure is a mix of hydroxy-, phos- phate, carbon, acid..... (according to the german patent and from what i can translate) this is mixed in a glycol to create the biocide and inhibitor (this is breaking it down to a easy understanding). So it should never be mixed with biocide extreme.


Ahh, so I will definetly be emptying out the loop later today then.
Don't have the blitz, and can't order it until next week. Would it be safe to run the loop with just destilled water (battery water, that is actually is destilled) and Biocide until then?
Could it be the antiCorro that gives the "wonky" PH?
I should get the Mayhems Kill Coil today or tomorrow, should be safe to use with the components of my loop?


----------



## Mayhem

you can just use distilled with a couple of drops of one or the other .


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> you can just use distilled with a couple of drops of one or the other .


I'll use either the biocide or the kill coil.
I don't think there's any parts in my loop that are incompatible with it?


----------



## bkvamme

Hi,
Just ordered a Blitz Pro kit.

One question about Part 1. For starters I will be cleaning 1x 120x45mm, 1x 280x35mm, 1x 240x35mm radiators. I assume that 1 liter will be sufficiant to clean all this simultaniously? Question 2, if I run the Part 1 mixture through a series of coffee filters to remove the debris, junk, is it possible to "reuse" the solution in more radiators straight away (maybe sharing with a friend of mine)? As it is only acid, I assume that it will not lose it's effect, but it never hurts to ask.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Hi,
> Just ordered a Blitz Pro kit.
> 
> One question about Part 1. For starters I will be cleaning 1x 120x45mm, 1x 280x35mm, 1x 240x35mm radiators. I assume that 1 liter will be sufficiant to clean all this simultaniously? Question 2, if I run the Part 1 mixture through a series of coffee filters to remove the debris, junk, is it possible to "reuse" the solution in more radiators straight away (maybe sharing with a friend of mine)? As it is only acid, I assume that it will not lose it's effect, but it never hurts to ask.


There should be plenty of part 1 to clean all of your rads. You can reuse it on another set of rads, I've seen other people in these forums do it with no problems.


----------



## Mayhem

You can do how ever acid eventaly does run out as such. Its becomes spent after a few uses (or to me and you weakens to the point it can no longer do its job).


----------



## X-Nine

Gotta say I'm impressed with my Red Mayhems. Used the concentrate with distilled and I'm loving it. One thing that worried me at first was that it had turned purple. Thanks to my google-fu, turns out it was the gunk in the Alphacool rad (that had been flushed with GALLONS of water). I switched to my old EK reservoir and bickity bam! Red. I'm a fan.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Did any of you guys get a tracking number when you ordered? I'm getting antsy


----------



## Jonas75

I've emptied out the blue crap now.
Re-did the loop as I'll add a 240 rad in the bortom of the case and also a GPU block.
This is hos it looks for now...only distilled water and a mayhems kill coil.


----------



## Jonas75

P.S The "clear" fluid I drained...


----------



## mikeyelo

Do you have to use Mayhems blitz to clean rads? Is it ok just to use distilled water.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeyelo*
> 
> Do you have to use Mayhems blitz to clean rads? Is it ok just to use distilled water.


It really depends on what you plan to do with your loop and the type of rad you buy. If you are going for pastel or something that is very sensitive to PH/flux then I would definitely use a blitz kit. The acid strips away any left over flux from the manufacturing process. Personally, on my first build I just used a lot of distilled water to flush, but when i switched to pastel i did the full blitz kit to make sure there wouldn't be any issues. You only need to blitz a rad once in the entire lifetime of the rad, after that you can just use part 2 when doing maintenance/changing coolant colors/types.


----------



## mikeyelo

I'm just going to use dyes and a black ice 360mm and 240mm rad.


----------



## Jonas75

A big thank you to the guys that helped me out in this thread!
Left the cleaned out and re-done loop over night (13h) to leaktest and make sure the distilled water stayed clear, it did








ATM running only distilled water and one kill coil, loop is ~650-675ml.

Used all new tubing for the loop re-build, Primochill LRT

As I said...this WAS clear distilled water with AntiCorro and biocide...about 3months in the loop:


----------



## Jonas75

Old layout with the discoloured fluid:


New layout, pics taken with my Mate 7, the above taken with my Nikon D5200:



As seen above I did leave one old tube in there, the one to the drain.



Filling the loop and checking for leaks:


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonas75*
> 
> Old layout with the discoloured fluid:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New layout, pics taken with my Mate 7, the above taken with my Nikon D5200:
> 
> 
> 
> As seen above I did leave one old tube in there, the one to the drain.
> 
> 
> 
> Filling the loop and checking for leaks:


Well, I think you should go with some blue dye or pastel. It looked better with the discolored fluid!


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Well, I think you should go with some blue dye or pastel. It looked better with the discolored fluid!


Haha, I have some UV-blue concentrate, it's Feser though and I have not read that flattering things about it...so a bit hesitant to put in the loop. Also my case has no window.


----------



## ALT F4

After about 6months and multiple maintenance I've managed to dull down my pastel red.

Should I just use red dye to give the color some pop or would I need to use pastel red concentrate to my already pre-mix loop(it has been diluted with water) ?


----------



## Mayhem

Alt F4 post a pic will advise once seen.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Alt F4 post a pic will advise once seen.


----------



## Mayhem

hmm so its lost it vibrance. hmm thats an interesting one. What rads are you using?, are you using any none plated copper blocks?, What is you inline temperature?

Mick


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> hmm so its lost it vibrance. hmm thats an interesting one. What rads are you using? Is it a copper Block? What is you inline temperature?
> 
> Mick


All alphacool rads, 480mm, 2 xt45 and 1 monsta. Temps for water on a daily are 25C-32C, highest my loop has seen is 40C on gpu and 36C on cpu. Copper cpu block and nickel plated on the rest.

I don't expect it to look the same as when I filled it of course, I am just assuming the temperature flux from over time, loop maintenance, and me diluting the coolant resulted in the color this way.


----------



## Goofy Flow

Final pictures for PARVUM MAMBA









I used the Mayhems Dye UV Green


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> All alphacool rads, 480mm, 2 xt45 and 1 monsta. Temps for water on a daily are 25C-32C, highest my loop has seen is 40C on gpu and 36C on cpu. Copper cpu block and nickel plated on the rest.
> 
> I don't expect it to look the same as when I filled it of course, I am just assuming the temperature flux from over time, loop maintenance, and me diluting the coolant resulted in the color this way.


You're using it wrong. It's actually a free feature from Alphacool® available for all of their radiators. They include additives in them to keep pastel colors looking milky soft so when you use it on non-opaque fluids you get that effect.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> You're using it wrong. It's actually a free feature from Alphacool® available for all of their radiators. They include additives in them to keep pastel colors looking milky soft so when you use it on non-opaque fluids you get that effect.


I'm using coolant wrong? I'm not sure what you are talking about.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> I'm using coolant wrong? I'm not sure what you are talking about.


Was a joke that their rads are really dirty and discolor loops if you don't clean them


----------



## Ramzinho

i think Mick didn't want to say this







,, Yes Alphacool rads are one of the dirtiest when it comes to derbies, Flux and soldering remains inside the rad. you need to flush them with Mayhem Blitz and really clean them so so so well then make sure the Ph balance is fine so you won't get that discoloration


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

I didn't even know they were dirty until I started looking for 480s and found this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1520512/the-quad-rad-roundup/0_20

and saw this pic:



You'd think that being so famous for their Monsta rads they'd clean them after manufacturing. No surprise that the Mayhems rad doesn't have crap in it.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I didn't even know they were dirty until I started looking for 480s and found this thread:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1520512/the-quad-rad-roundup/0_20
> 
> and saw this pic:
> 
> 
> 
> You'd think that being so famous for their Monsta rads they'd clean them after manufacturing. No surprise that the Mayhems rad doesn't have crap in it.


GEGGEG


----------



## ALT F4

Yeah I used the blitz kits. Actually, I have been fortunate to get fairly clean radiators.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Yeah I used the blitz kits. Actually, I have been fortunate to get fairly clean radiators.


Do you have my luck?:

Don't clean the rad and it ends up being really dirty inside








Clean the rad which was already very clean in the first place









On a side note, my dyes came today!


----------



## VSG

Yeah newer Alphacool/Phobya rads I got were pretty clean out of the box. Hopefully this trend continues!


----------



## vettemand

Hello all,
(first post, so go easy on me...lol)
I recently decided to put my rig under water, and need advice on the last item to aquire... coolant.
I set the color scheme to black and blue, ordered parts then did research afterwards








After reading all the horrible things that colored coolant can do to your system.. I figured I must have it!
My research determined that Mayhem was the only way to go...
What I want is a black fluid with uv blue... simple enough, in and of itself, but I'm really lazy, and don't want to change coolant every 9 months, so I think the X1 is out.... but what happens at 9 months?.. drain and refill with the same fluid, and it wont stain?...that doesn't make sense. Clean the parts I don't want stained then refill? I don't get it.
So, my question is, what do I use?

I love the 3 year life of the pastel... I can never leave a pc together that long anyway. but no black..
(Mayhems Purple + Mayhems Yellow + Mayhems UV Clear Blue = UV Reactive Black)
I guess I could try to replace the clear uv blue with uv white?

I love the promise of Mayhems non staining dye. has anyone successfully mixed a black uv version of this?
(Mayhems Purple + Mayhems Yellow + Mayhems UV Clear Blue = UV Reactive Black)
Red+blue make purple + Yellow+ UV Clear Blue since uv clear blue doesn't stain would this work?

and my last question for this post is about cleaning the rads... can i buy just the acids from the Blitz kit?
I have goggles and ph testing equipment (from my saltwater fish hobby) I don't see a reason to spend an additional, what, 20$ of the kit price for items I already have... maybe offer a refill kit? ... I could try to buy the acids locally, but knowing whats in it i guess wouldnt be monetarily beneficial for Mayhems...
The rads are XSPC by the way, anyone know if I can get away with pastel in them without cleaning them with acid?

Anyway, thanks for reading my book, and any and all help you guys can give me is appreciated.


----------



## cyphon

First, after a bit of a hiatus:









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vettemand*
> 
> Hello all,
> (first post, so go easy on me...lol)
> I recently decided to put my rig under water, and need advice on the last item to aquire... coolant.
> I set the color scheme to black and blue, ordered parts then did research afterwards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading all the horrible things that colored coolant can do to your system.. I figured I must have it!
> My research determined that Mayhem was the only way to go...
> What I want is a black fluid with uv blue... simple enough, in and of itself, but I'm really lazy, and don't want to change coolant every 9 months, so I think the X1 is out.... but what happens at 9 months?.. drain and refill with the same fluid, and it wont stain?...that doesn't make sense. Clean the parts I don't want stained then refill? I don't get it.
> So, my question is, what do I use?
> 
> I love the 3 year life of the pastel... I can never leave a pc together that long anyway. but no black..
> (Mayhems Purple + Mayhems Yellow + Mayhems UV Clear Blue = UV Reactive Black)
> I guess I could try to replace the clear uv blue with uv white?
> 
> I love the promise of Mayhems non staining dye. has anyone successfully mixed a black uv version of this?
> (Mayhems Purple + Mayhems Yellow + Mayhems UV Clear Blue = UV Reactive Black)
> Red+blue make purple + Yellow+ UV Clear Blue since uv clear blue doesn't stain would this work?
> 
> and my last question for this post is about cleaning the rads... can i buy just the acids from the Blitz kit?
> I have goggles and ph testing equipment (from my saltwater fish hobby) I don't see a reason to spend an additional, what, 20$ of the kit price for items I already have... maybe offer a refill kit? ... I could try to buy the acids locally, but knowing whats in it i guess wouldnt be monetarily beneficial for Mayhems...
> The rads are XSPC by the way, anyone know if I can get away with pastel in them without cleaning them with acid?
> 
> Anyway, thanks for reading my book, and any and all help you guys can give me is appreciated.


So, mixing black is not so simple, unfortunately. There used to be a black pastel, but it was pulled for rework.

X1 life is more along the lines of 1yr or so, but it is a full replacement of fluid not a drain and reuse situation. You're still much longer life than just water









If you run part 1 of blitz you really need part 2 too. Part 2 will get any remnants of part 1 out and neutralize everything. Having a pH outside of the normal range can cause the color to change and cause issues with your blocks (especially if you use nickel plated ones)


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Do you have my luck?:
> 
> Don't clean the rad and it ends up being really dirty inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean the rad which was already very clean in the first place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note, my dyes came today!


Nice, which dyes did you order?


----------



## vettemand

Thanks for the reply.
So drain and replace.. what about that procedure would keep it from staining?
I really don't care if it stains my blocks and tubing.. i just don't want it to stain the viewing window in my koolance x2 bay res.
Is there a way to remove the staining, or is it permanently discolored?

I would of course use part two after part one, but paying $40 bucks for a few dollars worth of chemicals and throwing everything else that comes with the kit away just seems silly.
I already have 2 high end ph probes, and several different liquid ph test kits and reagents. I have a few boxes of rubber gloves, and protective eye wear.
This venture has already chewed up spit out and laughed at 2 budgets and with buying the Monsoon PETG bending supplies I'm over $700 deep so far. even a few dollars saved here would be nice.
The X1 is less sensitive to the ph than the pastels from what I've read.
and I really haven't read anything about XSPC rads being extremely dirty like some of the others. ?Maybe just skip the cleaning and go with the X1?
I guess I could contact Koolance and see if I can order a new window just in case... Their customer service has already been superb


----------



## vettemand

Does anyone have any info on the pastel black being pulled for rework?
PPCS still shows it for sale. Whats wrong with it?


----------



## DaMadOne

Welp... I guess I needed to learn the hard way!







I didn't blitz the rads (Alphacool xt45 240 & 360) I only used the "sysprep" stuff that came with my tubing. I'm using pastel yellow and I now realize it has darkened up quite a bit after looking back at some photos from right after I built it. So, I guess I'll be redoing it the right way now. Bad for my wallet, but good for Mayhems lol









So other than it starting to turn a lovely shade of brownish yellow, is there any harm in letting it go for a while longer(2-3 weeks)?Already ordered a blitz pro kit, new tubing and coolant, but I don't know if I'm really going to have the free time in the next couple of weeks to tear it all down and redo everything.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Nice, which dyes did you order?


3x non stain red, 1x non stain blue. Haven't used any yet since I'm waiting on some parts but I wanted to have enough for a few loops. The blue is to make the "blood red" color. Can't wait to try it out!

I actually didn't know they made non stain dye until Ramzy mentioned it in one of his threads. My original plan was to switch out my red PrimoFlex with slightly bigger clear Durelene and go with barbs+Koolance hose clamps over compression fittings (I just did the switch over the weekend) and just have a bad looking loop since coolant is expensive (I've drained my loop once about every 3 weeks for the past few months due to upgrades). But now, I'm going with non-stain to get the looks back









Crappy camera (Galaxy S5):


Waiting on my cable combs to get in so I can get the ATX and PCIe cables looking sharp and my 2nd Kingpin before thinking about adding the dyes.

Also got an ES CPU from China on the way for $400 that's basically a 5960X. Thinking about which board to get though.


----------



## mikeyelo

Please post a pic of the blood red color. I need to confirm what the color will look like with the non stain dyes. Oh, and can you clean your radiator with any type of vinegar?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah newer Alphacool/Phobya rads I got were pretty clean out of the box. Hopefully this trend continues!


I believe I recall Mick said Alphacool and Phobya are changing their rad manufacturing to have additional cleaning, and are getting a rep here on OCN.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vettemand*
> 
> Hello all,
> (first post, so go easy on me...lol)
> I recently decided to put my rig under water, and need advice on the last item to aquire... coolant.
> I set the color scheme to black and blue, ordered parts then did research afterwards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading all the horrible things that colored coolant can do to your system.. I figured I must have it!
> My research determined that Mayhem was the only way to go...
> What I want is a black fluid with uv blue... simple enough, in and of itself, but I'm really lazy, and don't want to change coolant every 9 months, so I think the X1 is out.... but what happens at 9 months?.. drain and refill with the same fluid, and it wont stain?...that doesn't make sense. Clean the parts I don't want stained then refill? I don't get it.
> So, my question is, what do I use?
> 
> I love the 3 year life of the pastel... I can never leave a pc together that long anyway. but no black..
> (Mayhems Purple + Mayhems Yellow + Mayhems UV Clear Blue = UV Reactive Black)
> I guess I could try to replace the clear uv blue with uv white?
> 
> I love the promise of Mayhems non staining dye. has anyone successfully mixed a black uv version of this?
> (Mayhems Purple + Mayhems Yellow + Mayhems UV Clear Blue = UV Reactive Black)
> Red+blue make purple + Yellow+ UV Clear Blue since uv clear blue doesn't stain would this work?
> 
> and my last question for this post is about cleaning the rads... can i buy just the acids from the Blitz kit?
> I have goggles and ph testing equipment (from my saltwater fish hobby) I don't see a reason to spend an additional, what, 20$ of the kit price for items I already have... maybe offer a refill kit? ... I could try to buy the acids locally, but knowing whats in it i guess wouldnt be monetarily beneficial for Mayhems...
> The rads are XSPC by the way, anyone know if I can get away with pastel in them without cleaning them with acid?
> 
> Anyway, thanks for reading my book, and any and all help you guys can give me is appreciated.


X1 Black and Pastel black are very different colours. X1 is an "oil black" I wish I still had mine in a jar but I poured it out the other day. X1 Black is, in fact, not opaque. When viewed through a reservoir it looks pretty darn black. Put it through some tubing and it's a transparent black with a very slight greenish tint. It still looks great, but it's not opaque. It also mixes very well with UV Invisible blue (clear/uv blue). Seriously, when you shine good UV light on the X1 black it goes from pitch black to bright (radioactive looking) blue. Pastel Black is opaque. There is no way around that. Because of this I would not think it would work well with an UV Invisible blue. I could imagine it wouldn't allow much UV light to be absorbed by the dye. I have not yet seen it in person or on pics so if anyone has a sample of the two, and would like to prove me wrong, I would happily be wrong on that matter.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vettemand*
> 
> Hello all,
> (first post, so go easy on me...lol)
> I recently decided to put my rig under water, and need advice on the last item to aquire... coolant.
> I set the color scheme to black and blue, ordered parts then did research afterwards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading all the horrible things that colored coolant can do to your system.. I figured I must have it!
> My research determined that Mayhem was the only way to go...
> What I want is a black fluid with uv blue... simple enough, in and of itself, but I'm really lazy, and don't want to change coolant every 9 months, so I think the X1 is out.... but what happens at 9 months?.. drain and refill with the same fluid, and it wont stain?...that doesn't make sense. Clean the parts I don't want stained then refill? I don't get it.
> So, my question is, what do I use?
> 
> I love the 3 year life of the pastel... I can never leave a pc together that long anyway. but no black..
> (Mayhems Purple + Mayhems Yellow + Mayhems UV Clear Blue = UV Reactive Black)
> I guess I could try to replace the clear uv blue with uv white?
> 
> I love the promise of Mayhems non staining dye. has anyone successfully mixed a black uv version of this?
> (Mayhems Purple + Mayhems Yellow + Mayhems UV Clear Blue = UV Reactive Black)
> Red+blue make purple + Yellow+ UV Clear Blue since uv clear blue doesn't stain would this work?
> 
> and my last question for this post is about cleaning the rads... can i buy just the acids from the Blitz kit?
> I have goggles and ph testing equipment (from my saltwater fish hobby) I don't see a reason to spend an additional, what, 20$ of the kit price for items I already have... maybe offer a refill kit? ... I could try to buy the acids locally, but knowing whats in it i guess wouldnt be monetarily beneficial for Mayhems...
> The rads are XSPC by the way, anyone know if I can get away with pastel in them without cleaning them with acid?
> 
> Anyway, thanks for reading my book, and any and all help you guys can give me is appreciated.


So, mixing black is not so simple, unfortunately. There used to be a black pastel, but it was pulled for rework.

X1 life is more along the lines of 1yr or so, but it is a full replacement of fluid not a drain and reuse situation. You're still much longer life than just water









If you run part 1 of blitz you really need part 2 too. Part 2 will get any remnants of part 1 out and neutralize everything. Having a pH outside of the normal range can cause the color to change and cause issues with your blocks (especially if you use nickel plated ones)[/quote]

Mayhems put Pastel Black back on the market mate. Since the primary issue with the coolant was flux, after the blitz kit dropped, they started selling it again. I could go track down the link where Mick said this(Here on OCN), but I'm far too lazy.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vettemand*
> 
> Does anyone have any info on the pastel black being pulled for rework?
> PPCS still shows it for sale. Whats wrong with it?


See above comment. Pastel Black will work fine if you properly clean your rads.

-Z


----------



## vettemand

Thanks guys ... sounds like I'll just order some X1
If I don't like it, I'll be changing it out after 9 months anyway.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vettemand*
> 
> Thanks guys ... sounds like I'll just order some X1
> If I don't like it, I'll be changing it out after 9 months anyway.


I used black tubing with the X1 oil black so the black looks consistent thru the loop.
(the white tubes are the chiller loop)



Darlene


----------



## mikeyelo

Do you still have to drain and refill pastel every few months?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeyelo*
> 
> Do you still have to drain and refill pastel every few months?


Not at all, you can go much longer than that. Aurora is the only one you might have to do that for.


----------



## vettemand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I used black tubing with the X1 oil black so the black looks consistent thru the loop.
> (the white tubes are the chiller loop)
> 
> Darlene[/quote
> 
> Nice looking rig!
> I've already ordered my clear PETG and it should be in today...
> Just trying to figure out my drain system, and I'll place one last order for the X1... I'll post pics once its all up and running


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I used black tubing with the X1 oil black so the black looks consistent thru the loop.
> (the white tubes are the chiller loop)


Coca Cola cooled


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Coca Cola cooled


Go to bed mate. you are drunk


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx




----------



## mikeyelo

I just read about Mayhems non stain dyes on their website. They say to keep the no staining ability you need to use it with a variety of mayhems fluids. Does this mean it will still stain with just normal DI?


----------



## ALT F4

http://www.performance-pcs.com/fluids-additives/shopby/brand--mayhems/color--red/fluid-type--dye/?

Need some opinions on non stain red/pink or the red dye. Going to be using to try and make my pastel to be a bit more red.


----------



## Ramzinho

I guess mick will reply to that soon ALT F4.. don't worry


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I guess mick will reply to that soon ALT F4.. don't worry


I know, I've already posted my pictures for Mick's recommendation, otherwise I would message him.








I'm asking for opinions from people in the thread. Need some dyes in case I want to change up the red a bit, hoping for people who have played around with pastel and dyes.


----------



## mikeyelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeyelo*
> 
> I just read about Mayhems non stain dyes on their website. They say to keep the no staining ability you need to use it with a variety of mayhems fluids. Does this mean it will still stain with just normal DI?


^can someone please help?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeyelo*
> 
> I just read about Mayhems non stain dyes on their website. They say to keep the no staining ability you need to use it with a variety of mayhems fluids. Does this mean it will still stain with just normal DI?


It better not stain with normal distilled water or deionized. Now you have me worried


----------



## mikeyelo

I'm also wondering if the biocide in the non stain dyes the website says will work with DI or not.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

testing non stain blue in test bench


----------



## bkvamme

Hi,

Started blitzing my radiators yesterday, and I have some tiny problems that was kind of annoying.

When calibrating the pH meter, you have to press the CAL button twice in order for it to calibrate for a pH of 4.0. This was not indicated in the manual of either the pH meter, or the one that was supplied by Mayhem. I spent around 15 minutes trying to calibrate it properly, as I was certain that both manuals could not be wrong, and ended up calibrating the pH meter to 6.86 for the 4.0 solution.

So, essentially:

Press CAL once for 6.86
Press CAL twice for 4.00
Press CAL thrice for 10.86 (?)

Only the first two are relevant for Blitz Pro users, as only two pH powders are provided.

Other than that, it worked perfectly.

For reference, 1000ml of blitz (full 250ml bottle) was sufficient to blitz:

1x 120x45
1x 240x30
1x 240x35
1x 280x35
1x 480x40

Simultanously, which was kind of surprising. I expected the rads to hold more fluid than that. Will be pumping water through the radiators for 30-45 minutes, which should get all the goo and acid out.


----------



## Mayhem

Hi bkvamme

Thank you for that info on the new PH meters we've introduced to the blitz pro kits, I have actually forgotten to update the info sheets with how to use them, as we have changed them from a PH meter that you had to use a screwdriver to calibrate to a meter that auto calibrates (with no increase in price). Ill update the information sheets so that no one else has that issue.

Msg me for a 10% discount off you next order (mayhems shop) for pointing out that major flaw and the Rad info







.

Mick


----------



## bkvamme

Oh, didn't expect that. Thank you very much, that will come in handy!

Overall very impressed by the kit, should clean out the rads nicely. Got to love that acid.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Oh, didn't expect that. Thank you very much, that will come in handy!
> 
> Overall very impressed by the kit, should clean out the rads nicely. Got to love that acid.


That's been always the Mayhem's way.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi bkvamme
> 
> Thank you for that info on the new PH meters we've introduced to the blitz pro kits, I have actually forgotten to update the info sheets with how to use them, as we have changed them from a PH meter that you had to use a screwdriver to calibrate to a meter that auto calibrates (with no increase in price). Ill update the information sheets so that no one else has that issue.
> 
> Msg me for a 10% discount off you next order (mayhems shop) for pointing out that major flaw and the Rad info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Mick


Can you show is what pH meter that is? I recently bought the pro kit from PPCS, and the instructions were aged a bit. They were like a year old or something.


----------



## bkvamme

The pH meter is the same used in this video

PC Water Cooling 101: How To Maintain & Clean A L&#8230;: https://youtu.be/dJldpzPtugw

Essentially a red one with a black cap. Small display with two buttons, On/Off and a Cal button.


----------



## Mayhem

The older ones looked the same but came with a small screw driver (yellow) and have a small hole in the back and you use the screwdriver to calibrate the meter. The new ones dont have the screwdriver.


----------



## Jonas75

Re-arranged a bit in the case today, discovered a discoloration in the res.
http://s1260.photobucket.com/user/mayday_75/media/PC Build 2014-2015/20150517_7.jpg.html

Figured it is either algea, ie the kill coil hasn't been in long enough, so I added a drop of Biocide extreme.

OR it's the kill coil reacting with something in the loop?


----------



## SteezyTN

Is the Mayhems store the only place where I can order blitz Part 1... Just part 1 only?

I'm planning on getting a Caselabs SMA8 and two XSPC RX480 radiators. In looking at PPCS and all I see is the full kits. The part 1 was able to fill my XSPC RX360, RX249, and EX240 with very very little left over. Now I need to purchase some more to clean the new rads.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Is the Mayhems store the only place where I can order blitz Part 1... Just part 1 only?
> 
> I'm planning on getting a Caselabs SMA8 and two XSPC RX480 radiators. In looking at PPCS and all I see is the full kits. The part 1 was able to fill my XSPC RX360, RX249, and EX240 with very very little left over. Now I need to purchase some more to clean the new rads.


I assume you live in the US.

http://www.aquatuning.us/thermal-pads-und-paste/cleaning-agent/18429/mayhems-blitz-part-1-radiator-cleaner


----------



## bkvamme

Blitzed the raditors on Friday evening, here is how we cleaned them on Saturday morning. We circulated the water for 30 minutes.

Exclude the crappy quality and commentary. We only have snapchats as documentation.

Not as nice as Mayhems video, but lacking theads on our water crane, this was the only way.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> I assume you live in the US.
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/thermal-pads-und-paste/cleaning-agent/18429/mayhems-blitz-part-1-radiator-cleaner


$40? That's as much as the entire pro kit cost... Less actually.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> $40? That's as much as the entire pro kit cost... Less actually.


Just providing options. I ordered mine directly from Mayhems.

I live in Malaysia thou.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Just providing options. I ordered mine directly from Mayhems.
> 
> I live in Malaysia thou.


I may just order through Mayhems too. Shipping is like $7 to the U.S. And it's only $16


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I may just order through Mayhems too. Shipping is like $7 to the U.S. And it's only $16


I have ordered from the Mayhems webshop.
The service is great and shipping is fast. I live in Scandinavia though.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonas75*
> 
> I have ordered from the Mayhems webshop.
> The service is great and shipping is fast. I live in Scandinavia though.


For me took about 1.5 - 2 weeks i think? UK to Malaysia.

No complaints. Haven't used the blitz kit yet thou! will do soon!


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> For me took about 1.5 - 2 weeks i think? UK to Malaysia.
> 
> No complaints. Haven't used the blitz kit yet thou! will do soon!


Less than a week for me, I live closer though.
As I said, fast shipping and great service.


----------



## Mayhem

USA can take a while due to customs (anywhere from 7 to 14 working days, sometimes longer), USA Customs are thieving twats.....


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> USA can take a while due to customs (anywhere from 7 to 14 working days, sometimes longer), USA Customs are thieving twats.....


Same for Swedish customs if ordering outside EU. Thieving pirates in uniforms....


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> USA Customs are thieving twats.....


Excuse your french


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonas75*
> 
> Same for Swedish customs if ordering outside EU. Thieving pirates in uniforms....


I know that fee. Took them mote than two weeks to send a package from Canada to Sweden...


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> I know that fee. Took them mote than two weeks to send a package from Canada to Sweden...


Bought a pair of Edcor signal transformers from the USA, shipping and customs fees was twice the price of the products....
They did however make my USB-DAC sound amazing








http://s1260.photobucket.com/user/mayday_75/media/MayDus/DSC01897.jpg.html
http://s1260.photobucket.com/user/mayday_75/media/MayDus/DSC01901.jpg.html
http://s1260.photobucket.com/user/mayday_75/media/MayDus/DSC01905.jpg.html

Sorry about going way OT


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> USA Customs are thieving twats.....
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse your french
Click to expand...

Its old English / Viking era (Old Norse) not french i believe and just means to slit (e.g customs are slitting ppl throats hence the word), Obv some people use it for other purposes but thats were diffrent countries use diffrent wording for diffrent things (in the uk it also can be taken as a rude word)







.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its old English / Viking era (Old Norse) not french i believe and just means to slit (e.g customs are slitting ppl throats hence the word), Obv some people use it for other purposes but thats were diffrent countries use diffrent wording for diffrent things (in the uk it also can be taken as a rude word


or another word would be ****s


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonas75*
> 
> Re-arranged a bit in the case today, discovered a discoloration in the res.
> 
> 
> Figured it is either algea, ie the kill coil hasn't been in long enough, so I added a drop of Biocide extreme.
> 
> OR it's the kill coil reacting with something in the loop?


Looks like one of those Alphacool reservoirs that have end pieces cast from lead.
I'ld bet any money the black nickle plating is lifting away and the lead (or whatever it is) is reacting with other metal and or coolant in your loop...
plus giving off nice flakes of the plating to deposit elsewhere in your loop.

had one of them few years ago so my








is from personal bad experience with one









Edit: resized the pic


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Looks like one of those Alphacool reservoirs that have end pieces cast from lead.
> I'ld bet any money the black nickle plating is lifting away and the lead (or whatever it is) is reacting with other metal and or coolant in your loop...
> plus giving off nice flakes of the plating to deposit elsewhere in your loop.
> 
> had one of them few years ago so my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is from personal bad experience with one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: resized the pic


It's only ~6 months old, the entire loop actually.
The RES is a Phobya balancer 150
So, get the kill coil out of there?
I have added some Biocide as I wrote earlier.


----------



## fast_fate

drain the loop and check that res for flaking nickel plating, suggest getting ready to order a different res.
doesn't matter how old a product is if it was bad to begin with


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT [quote name=[/B]
> Re-arranged a bit in the case today, discovered a discoloration in the res.
> http://s1260.photobucket.com/user/mayday_75/media/PC Build 2014-2015/20150517_7.jpg.html
> 
> Figured it is either algea, ie the kill coil hasn't been in long enough, so I added a drop of Biocide extreme.
> 
> OR it's the kill coil reacting with something in the loop?*


*

Did you blitz your rads? Looks like flux, and/or contaminants from the rad rather than algae to me. With algae you'd be more likely to see microbial cultures developing in the res rather than just a slight tint in the water. Is it just in the reservoir or is it everywhere in the loop?

-Z
Quote:



Originally Posted by Mayhem 

USA can take a while due to customs (anywhere from 7 to 14 working days, sometimes longer), USA Customs are thieving twats.....

Click to expand...

What do you expect mate? All those Chinese trying to import D-Grade cheeseburgers. Gotta have strict regulation on imports to keep our burger industry safe.
Land of the free and home of the whopper.


-Z*


----------



## Jonas75

Took some pics just now





Less light on this pic




No discolouration anywhere but the RES, and that seems to have improved since adding Biocide.

Before Biocide


So, what do you guys think?
Didn't see any signs of flakes in the res. Atleast not that I could see.
No, did not Blitz the RAD before installing it, didn't even know Blitz existed at the time.


----------



## fast_fate

I think good news about the reservoir and it's plating








I'll stop my rant now.


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I think good news about the reservoir and it's plating
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll stop my rant now.


Rant away, rant away








It's better to get one advice too much so to speak than not enough...

So probably algea or discolouration from "crap" still in the rad?
I'm guessing algea as it seems to be clearing up and I added the Biocide yesterday IIRC. My memory is short, very short, alot on my mind atm.

Edit: Made a short video as I was listening for noise (thought I had heard a strange noise earlier)
Excuse the noise of my breathing, my fiancé watching desperate housewives etc. The loud sound from the case is the 3.5" HDD, fortunatly that is only during boot.


----------



## VSG

I assume Mick can't post this here so let me:


----------



## Mayhem

lol just didnt have time to post on here were so bissy. Only time ive got to jump on here is now at 20:30 hrs when im back at home lol. thks for the post though


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Mayhem I bought two bottle of each (Follow me now) Of Pastel orange and Green pastel.



Like this.

Now I've mixed 1 bottle of each in these loops, after putting 1250 to 1500 ml of Distilled water in each.




The Orange looked great at first... .Now I doesn't look.. well... orange anymore? I've added another 2oz of the 2nd bottle of Orange Pastel to try and make it more orange but to no avail. It's almost a Rust colour?





What can I do? I am close to draining the loop and going with another colour. The Orange kinda resembles V8 tomato juice









The Cautious One (Thanks for making the pastels too!)


----------



## FrancisJF

If you choose another color, choose blue.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> If you choose another color, choose blue.


Think So?

TCO


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Think So?
> 
> TCO


Yes.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Yes.


I will consider all options... what of Yellow and Green?

TCO


----------



## Mayhem

What rads are they, yeh blue would work , white would work send me over an email and ill get some in the post to you foc.

Mick


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I will consider all options... what of Yellow and Green?
> 
> TCO


Did you make sure you really cleaned the radiators well ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> What rads are they, yeh blue would work , white would work send me over an email and ill get some in the post to you foc.
> 
> Mick


See TCO that's why i told you Mayhem is great







,, and Mick Congrats on the new product.. looks awesome man


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @Mayhem I bought two bottle of each (Follow me now) Of Pastel orange and Green pastel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> Now I've mixed 1 bottle of each in these loops, after putting 1250 to 1500 ml of Distilled water in each.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Orange looked great at first... .Now I doesn't look.. well... orange anymore? I've added another 2oz of the 2nd bottle of Orange Pastel to try and make it more orange but to no avail. It's almost a Rust colour?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What can I do? I am close to draining the loop and going with another colour. The Orange kinda resembles V8 tomato juice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious One (Thanks for making the pastels too!)


Check your pH, it's probably gone off a bit . . .

Even the EK rads should be Blitzed before using the pH sensitive pastels and reds.

D.


----------



## Mayhem

Ek Use more than one rad manufacture. So totaly agree with you Diva


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> What rads are they, yeh blue would work , white would work send me over an email and ill get some in the post to you foc.
> 
> Mick


I have pm'd you Mayhem ( and that means the world that you would consider this )









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Did you make sure you really cleaned the radiators well ?
> See TCO that's why i told you Mayhem is great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,, and Mick Congrats on the new product.. looks awesome man


You were Correct Ramz! I appreciate you asking me to reach out To Mr. Mayhem







I was just looking for an answer or advice you know?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Check your pH, it's probably gone off a bit . . .
> 
> Even the EK rads should be Blitzed before using the pH sensitive pastels and reds.
> 
> D.


Why is the Green different than the Orange and whatnot? Just the Dyes? Oh and I missed you Diva... I've been working a ton and haven't had time for my Baby (You







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *Ek Use more than one rad manufacture*. So totaly agree with you Diva


Really? I never knew that!

The Cautious ONe


----------



## gdubc

Red seems to be more sensitive. The new red pastel concentrate from the facebook video looks to be different.


----------



## marshymellows

Do you mayhem people have a tutorial on how to connect a hose to the tap then to the system?


----------



## bkvamme

You need to have a crane with a barb fitting on. Typically only found in lab/workshop enviroments unless you have installed it yourself.

What I did was to just use a pan/bucket/any type of container as a buffer, and have the crane fill the pan at the same speed as the pump is sucking it out. Just use have some tubing in the pan to suck the water out, and have the return tubing go into the sink again.

My friend shot a video illustrating the concept, it worked like a charm.


----------



## SteezyTN

Is part 2 of the blitz suppose to come out blue-ish?


----------



## Mayhem

The coolant is light blue, if its been in you system it will clean what ever is in your system out so if you had blue in you system it will bring it out.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The coolant is light blue, if its been in you system it will clean what ever is in your system out so if you had blue in you system it will bring it out.


I never used coolant before. But now that you say it, I did use the dead water biocide from FCPU. That biocide looked almost alike. Could that be what it is?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I never used coolant before. But now that you say it, I did use the dead water biocide from FCPU. That biocide looked almost alike. Could that be what it is?


That's a copper sulfate, so it's very possible that it caused the blue


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That's a copper sulfate, so it's very possible that it caused the blue


What exactly does that mean? Is my loop still clean? I'm adding Pastel Ice white in a few minutes. That's almost the color it was when I used part 1 for 8 hours.

EDIT* so instead of running tap to clean out part 2, in using Distilled. Most of its out, but it will foam a little at the top of my res. I can't determine if that's from part 2, or if it's actually bubbles. If I started to add pastel, and there was traces of part 2 still in the loop, could that affect anything. Or doesn't part 2 have to be COMPLETELY gone? Thanks


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm stupid








I went to calibrate my pH sensor, and I first filled the pH 6 buffer packet with tap water. I realized it after I already poured it in the water. Wel I went ahead and did the distilled for the pH 4 buffer. Then I went to calculate the pH of the water running in my system, and it wouldn't move or anything. It constantly stayed at 0.

At this point, I'm saying screw it. I'm putting in the Pastel right now. I tasted the water in the loop now (to my tongue), and it taste kinda neutral and a tiny tiny tiny bit bitter. It doesn't taste acidic like it used to (after I ran the distilled and vinegar solution). So I assume the pH should be good to go. Either way, I'm filling it up now


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Is part 2 of the blitz suppose to come out blue-ish?


Part 1 of Blitz it primarily phosphoric acid. When you introduce phosphoric acid to copper you created cupric phosphate.

Cupric phosphate looks like this:


Did you use part 1 before using part 2? Because if you did it's probably residual cupric phosphate that part 2 picked up, which is completely normal.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That's a copper sulfate, so it's very possible that it caused the blue
> 
> 
> 
> What exactly does that mean? Is my loop still clean? I'm adding Pastel Ice white in a few minutes. That's almost the color it was when I used part 1 for 8 hours.
> 
> EDIT* so instead of running tap to clean out part 2, in using Distilled. Most of its out, but it will foam a little at the top of my res. I can't determine if that's from part 2, or if it's actually bubbles. If I started to add pastel, and there was traces of part 2 still in the loop, could that affect anything. Or doesn't part 2 have to be COMPLETELY gone? Thanks
Click to expand...

Cupric sulphate is a water soluble salt that the water cooling industry uses as a cheap and effective biocide. (PT Nuke (non pHn), I&H Deadwater, Mayhems Biocide Extreme, etc.)

Cupric sulphate: 

If you didn't use part 1 there are three possibilities.

1: There was some residual cupric sulphate caught in the rads. (Unlikely unless you used an absurd amount of biocide extreme)
2: There was some blue dye in the loop prior. (Definitely would cause this if you had blue dye)
3: Part 2 picked up some cupric carbonate (copper patina) in the rads. (Fairly high possibility.)

Verdigris, aka Cupric carbonate (i.e. copper patina)


-Z


----------



## SteezyTN

About 1.25L of Pastel Ice White. My Titabs X's love it











Thanks Z. That makes slot of sense.

Oh. And the part about the Zinc Oxide. I mixed my two 250ml bottles of concentrate with the two 750ml of distilled. Can I pour it down the drain since it has been diluted? How do I correctly dispose of it?


----------



## bkvamme

Hi,
Is it really bad to use normal tap water for Part 2? Should I drain it and run it again with distilled water + part 2? It was running for 24h now, and I completely forgot that it i was supposed to use distilled/deionized water to mix with Part 2. Will obviously flush with distilled.

Also, after I have flushed the system with distilled water, is it best to leave distilled water in the loop, or should I drain it out? I have to wait for a male-male fitting before I can fill it up with Pastel.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Hi,
> Is it really bad to use normal tap water for Part 2? Should I drain it and run it again with distilled water + part 2? It was running for 24h now, and I completely forgot that it i was supposed to use distilled/deionized water to mix with Part 2. Will obviously flush with distilled.
> 
> Also, after I have flushed the system with distilled water, is it best to leave distilled water in the loop, or should I drain it out? I have to wait for a male-male fitting before I can fill it up with Pastel.


You're suppose to use distiller. That's the whole point of it... To clean the loop


----------



## bkvamme

Yeah, I know. Turns out that it is half and half with distilled and tap. Blah, what a mess. I think I'll just drain it and flush the system again, just for peace of mind.


----------



## Mayhem

Mahahahaha new type of hard tubing ......... Mahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

Thats all i can say ........... mahahahahahahaha "all your bases belong to us" .....


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mahahahaha new type of hard tubing ......... Mahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
> 
> Thats all i can say ........... mahahahahahahaha "all your bases belong to us" .....


Now?
Now?
Now?
OMG WHEN?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mahahahaha new type of hard tubing ......... Mahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
> 
> Thats all i can say ........... mahahahahahahaha "all your bases belong to us" .....




Is B your final answer?

-Z


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mahahahaha new type of hard tubing ......... Mahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
> 
> Thats all i can say ........... mahahahahahahaha "all your bases belong to us" .....


i was pretty sure that will happen... pretty darn sure.. GIFFFFF ME


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mahahahaha new type of hard tubing ......... Mahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
> 
> Thats all i can say ........... mahahahahahahaha "all your bases belong to us" .....


Wow - bring it on Mick, that is all I can say - will even test it for you Lol

Mark


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mahahahaha new type of hard tubing ......... Mahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
> 
> Thats all i can say ........... mahahahahahahaha "all your bases belong to us" .....


----------



## waqasr

When will the new pastel range be released? Also would you loop cleaning kit sort out an algae infested rad?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waqasr*
> 
> When will the new pastel range be released? Also would you loop cleaning kit sort out an algae infested rad?


Part 1 is primarily phosphoric acid mate. In higher concentrations phosphoric acid will burn your flesh. It'll incinerate any algae out of your rad.

-Z


----------



## waqasr

Oh ok, thats good then, ill need to get some.

When will you guys have your 1/2"id 3/4"od tubing in stock? I need to order stuff!


----------



## gdubc

Look whats up on Mayhems site: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/120mm-nidec-gentle-typhoon-performance-radiator-fan-2150rpm-68cfm-black-edition.html


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Look whats up on Mayhems site: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/120mm-nidec-gentle-typhoon-performance-radiator-fan-2150rpm-68cfm-black-edition.html


Saw that! Finally a European reseller for the GTs, and even in black! Nice work!


----------



## Mayhem

They arrived friday, got to move them down to the warehouse but i can tell you guys most of them have been pre sold allready. What we have left will be added to the site with in the next couple of days but i dont expect them to be on the site for long. we will have to order more in.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Look whats up on Mayhems site: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/120mm-nidec-gentle-typhoon-performance-radiator-fan-2150rpm-68cfm-black-edition.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> They arrived friday, got to move them down to the warehouse but i can tell you guys most of them have been pre sold allready. What we have left will be added to the site with in the next couple of days but i dont expect them to be on the site for long. we will have to order more in.


You might need to upgrade your warehouse to a bigger facility to store the amount people are going to try to order. XD I can already see the backorders piling up when the interwebs figures out the AP45s are back on the retail market. Im a fan of budget fans since noise doesn't rattle me, but gotta say the bearings on those GT fans are wicked. I've messed around with a few fan's bearings for poops and giggles and those GTs just don't stop spinning once the powers cut. Other bearings just don't compare.... Anyways, great news for everyone.

-Z


----------



## stin0

At the moment I'm using Feser UV active Red cooling liquid with Tygon R3603 tubing but I'm not really satisfied.
The liquid is not really UV active and looks more like orange to me. The Tygon tubing seems to really attract the dye and the tubes bend way too easily.

I'm thinking about switching to PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced tubing with a nice Mayhems coolant with color.

Any suggestions on awesome colors? I have a red/black/white theme going on and perhaps the non-uv X1 Blood Red is a nice option








I'm not buying Feser again because I don't like it at all.


----------



## Mayhem

Were going to invest in a Automatic induction sealing system due to requests from PPC since some delivery guys seem to like to play football with our bottles :/. Think we may need a bigger work place with the way Mayhems is expanding.....


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mick, have to hand it to ya this Blood Red X1 looks amazing in my acrylic loop (still have one run left to do eventually but no leaks and looks amazing (will be cleaning everything up and breaking out the real camera later this week, so iPotato 6+ will have to do). Also 1Litre was enough to fill my loop (Board, GPU, and 2 360 rads)


----------



## XKaan

Hey all!

So I've leak tested my loop and I'm ready to put colored coolant in. I'm doing Pastel White with Blue Dye afterwards to match my components.

Question: Is it worth draining my distilled, then mixing my 250ml pastel white with 750ml of distilled, then putting that ack in? I guess what I am asking is if it's fine to just add the 250ml of pastel white concentrate to what exists in the loop and let it mix?

Or must it be mixed first outside the loop?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Hey all!
> 
> So I've leak tested my loop and I'm ready to put colored coolant in. I'm doing Pastel White with Blue Dye afterwards to match my components.
> 
> Question: Is it worth draining my distilled, then mixing my 250ml pastel white with 750ml of distilled, then putting that ack in? I guess what I am asking is if it's fine to just add the 250ml of pastel white concentrate to what exists in the loop and let it mix?
> 
> Or must it be mixed first outside the loop?


Well you can, but you're better off mixing it outside. At least you know how much you mix in. And besides, a gallon of distilled water is cheap in NA


----------



## XKaan

Yeah, you are right - I just just feeling a tad lazy today after all the time doing bends, sleeving etc. lol

Do it right, or don't do it at all!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Question. Does the non-staining of dye only apply to blocks (i.e. metal components)? I had some non-stain blue mixed into my test bench loop to play with and took it apart after about 2 weeks and the tubing was stained slightly. Not that I really care since it's tubing but I'm just curious. Thanks!


----------



## wermad

Hi guys, I've been thinking of getting a pastel color again for an upcoming build. Some one mentioned they were able to dilute a concentrate bottle (250ml) of pastel w/ distilled beyond the 750ml instructions. I asked in the wc thread and was told its possible but may have issues w/ the suspended particles. Does anyone have experience with this? Thanks and +1


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hi guys, I've been thinking of getting a pastel color again for an upcoming build. Some one mentioned they were able to dilute a concentrate bottle (250ml) of pastel w/ distilled beyond the 750ml instructions. I asked in the wc thread and was told its possible but may have issues w/ the suspended particles. Does anyone have experience with this? Thanks and +1


Quote:


> ICE White 250ML Concentrate
> Add 750mls of Purified water to 250ml of concentrate to make 1 Ltr of liquid
> Mayhems Pastel range of coolants have been in development for over two years, with co-operation between Ice Dragon Cooling and Mayhems. This new range of liquids surpasses anything in the market place at the moment in time, with its outstanding colours and cooling power.
> Mayhems new pastel range incorporates many differing technologies into one product, from dyes to nano fluids and of course a little Mayhems magic. With a system working life of about two years, of which is due to a design that is intended for prolonged use.


It's what the instructions say. i think Mick said it's not preferable because it will separate the nano particles easier. i guess 50 ~ 100ml more will not be a problem.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Question. Does the non-staining of dye only apply to blocks (i.e. metal components)? I had some non-stain blue mixed into my test bench loop to play with and took it apart after about 2 weeks and the tubing was stained slightly. Not that I really care since it's tubing but I'm just curious. Thanks!


Its not staining the tubing it being sucked into the tubing which you cannot stop. If you drop it on your carpet you can simply dab it up or it its on you hands you can wipe off. It should not stain you block unless you blocks suck it up lol.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Would love to try the non-staining dyes next, now with the non-stain does it not require use of a Biocide along w/ it. Similar to my running X1 and Pastel in my loops (two separate loops btw)


----------



## Mayhem

best used with coolant.


----------



## SteezyTN

Need some advice. I was extremely stupid and ordered anodized red fittings from Primochill. I should've ordered all black. Anyways, would my coolant look better with another coolant? I like the Ice White (pastel), but it's beginning to look a little "blah" to me. Should I add some dye?


----------



## Mayhem

There is an old saying, "If it works leave it alone ... " Me ... id leave it as is, its working.


----------



## kitg90

colours look good i wouldn't change it


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its not staining the tubing it being sucked into the tubing which you cannot stop. If you drop it on your carpet you can simply dab it up or it its on you hands you can wipe off. It should not stain you block unless you blocks suck it up lol.


So what would the difference be between staining tubing and it leeching into the tubing? Not that I really care since it's just tubing but it makes me curious.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> There is an old saying, "If it works leave it alone ... " Me ... id leave it as is, its working.


Oh you Brits with your 'proper' idioms http://idioms.thefreedictionary.com/if+it+ain%27t+broke%2c+don%27t+fix+it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> colours look good i wouldn't change it


+1 to that. I like how the red fittings give it an accented look. If they were black it would look more dull and bland imo


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Hi guys, I've been thinking of getting a pastel color again for an upcoming build. Some one mentioned they were able to dilute a concentrate bottle (250ml) of pastel w/ distilled beyond the 750ml instructions. I asked in the wc thread and was told its possible but may have issues w/ the suspended particles. Does anyone have experience with this? Thanks and +1


The pastel is also "Blended with Non-Toxic Corrosion & Scale Inhibitors for protection of Copper, Brass, Steel, Nickel and Aluminium Proven to ASTM D3306 and BS6580 standards." You would be diluting those as well. So make sure you keep that in mind if you go that route.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Need some advice. I was extremely stupid and ordered anodized red fittings from Primochill. I should've ordered all black. Anyways, would my coolant look better with another coolant? I like the Ice White (pastel), but it's beginning to look a little "blah" to me. Should I add some dye?


Leave it and Change your Profile pic to the NEw Setup

TCO


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> The pastel is also "Blended with Non-Toxic Corrosion & Scale Inhibitors for protection of Copper, Brass, Steel, Nickel and Aluminium Proven to ASTM D3306 and BS6580 standards." You would be diluting those as well. So make sure you keep that in mind if you go that route.


I've been running plain distilled for a while now, through many different builds, including copper and nickel. Currently running three nickel blocks (koolance 380 & 2x 295x2 blocks) with distilled only for about three months now. Adding more distilled doesn't seem like a problem tbh. I'm more concern about the effect and color if they hold when you add more distilled.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've been running plain distilled for a while now, through many different builds, including copper and nickel. Currently running three nickel blocks (koolance 380 & 2x 295x2 blocks) with distilled only for about three months now. Adding more distilled doesn't seem like a problem tbh. I'm more concern about the effect and color if they hold when you add more distilled.


I always run distilled as well unless I'm doing a pastel build. I don't know at what point diluting it would effect the color or longevity of the coolant. I have never actually diluted the pastel coolant. Hopefully someone else or Mick can answer that question.


----------



## DNMock

Dammit Mick, just happened to check in and see that the tubing is finally up for sale, go to buy some and "out of stock"


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Leave it and Change your Profile pic to the NEw Setup
> 
> TCO


I need a better camera. My iPhone 6P isn't cutting it. It looks so much better in person. I'll change it in a few (profile pic)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its not staining the tubing it being sucked into the tubing which you cannot stop. If you drop it on your carpet you can simply dab it up or it its on you hands you can wipe off. It should not stain you block unless you blocks suck it up lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what would the difference be between staining tubing and it leeching into the tubing? Not that I really care since it's just tubing but it makes me curious.
> 
> *snip*
Click to expand...

Staining something is simply changing it's color. That's what the nonstain dye doesn't do, it won't stain things.

Flex tubing dries out, except it doesn't because it absorbs coolant from the loop. If the coolant happens to be dyed, then guess what colour the tubing is absorbing? The coolant can't stop the tubing from absorbing liquid.

-Z


----------



## tommi6o

Can I make the pastel mint green coolant look like the new pastel green with some dyes?


----------



## Mayhem

It will be here next week (or at least should be). its been up but not for sale so ppl can click on inform me when its up for sale.


----------



## valkyrie743

hey all.

I just rebuilt my loop the other day. only had my cpu in the loop but just bought a block for my video card. put new tubing (PrimoFlex Advanced LRT clear) and new coolant (mayhems X1 clear)
I've noticed that my res has a light blue tint to it. is that to coolant or something in the rads that's changing the color of the new coolant? I've only used X1 clear in this loop. a year ago i did use mayhems deep blue dye but since then, i've flushed the rads with distilled water (a few times with 1/4 vinigar 3/4 distilled water mix) then flushed again with plain distilled water) should i be worried?


----------



## duong01

Is the dye compatible with anti-corrosion additives like No-Rosion?


----------



## cyphon

Catching up on posts.

Did I read right that Mayhem's has a hard line on its way?!


----------



## valkyrie743

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duong01*
> 
> Is the dye compatible with anti-corrosion additives like No-Rosion?


im not using dye. when i did it was mayhems, so yeah, its probably fine.


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Catching up on posts.
> 
> Did I read right that Mayhem's has a hard line on its way?!


Sure does look like it 

Now if they only made cheap(er) and good looking fittings, we would be golden! I can understand the price of waterblocks, but paying up to €35 for a T-block is a bit steep! You might very well end up spending more on fittings than the rest of your loop!


----------



## Mayhem

Were looking into to a "type" of hard clear tubing yes.We have also got flexible tubing arriving this week and we've also upgraded to a factory induction line and capping system to help speed up production since in the last 7 days we've shipped over 4 tonnes of fluid out the door. Were releasing Pastel Extreme with in the next month or so and also we've improved Aurora yet again.

On a side note Chameleon development has stopped, It would be impossible to release a heat sensitive product to the public simply because they don't understand thermodynamics well enough to use such a coolant.This is not saying every one is the same how ever learning from the sales, email and experience from Aurora, Chameleon would be 100,000 times worse due to lack of understanding. The product is now fully working but all development has ceased we will learn from the knowledge we have attained from it and move it into another idea i have.

So a lot is going on. How ever im taking a break for the weekend and will go back to work monday.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Were looking into to a "type" of hard clear tubing yes.We have also got flexible tubing arriving this week and we've also upgraded to a factory induction line and capping system to help speed up production since in the last 7 days we've shipped over 4 tonnes of fluid out the door. Were releasing Pastel Extreme with in the next month or so and also we've improved Aurora yet again.
> 
> On a side note Chameleon development has stopped, It would be impossible to *release a heat sensitive product to the public simply because they don't understand thermodynamics well enough to use such a coolant*.This is not saying every one is the same how ever learning from the sales, email and experience from Aurora, Chameleon would be 100,000 times worse due to lack of understanding. The product is now fully working but all development has ceased we will learn from the knowledge we have attained from it and move it into another idea i have.
> 
> So a lot is going on. How ever im taking a break for the weekend and will go back to work monday.


But I'm an Engineer O.O









and go ahead man.. you deserve that vacation







..... can't wait for the hard tubing


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Were looking into to a "type" of hard clear tubing yes.We have also got flexible tubing arriving this week and we've also upgraded to a factory induction line and capping system to help speed up production since in the last 7 days we've shipped over 4 tonnes of fluid out the door. Were releasing Pastel Extreme with in the next month or so and also we've improved Aurora yet again.
> 
> On a side note Chameleon development has stopped, It would be impossible to release a heat sensitive product to the public simply because they don't understand thermodynamics well enough to use such a coolant.This is not saying every one is the same how ever learning from the sales, email and experience from Aurora, Chameleon would be 100,000 times worse due to lack of understanding. The product is now fully working but all development has ceased we will learn from the knowledge we have attained from it and move it into another idea i have.
> 
> So a lot is going on. How ever im taking a break for the weekend and will go back to work monday.


But there has to be some chameleon laying around still right? Always wanted to play with it lol

Sounds like lots of good things coming from you guys, exciting to hear. I agree with a previous poster, mayhems fittings would be sweet... Maybe something to consider at least.

Enjoy the vacation!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Were looking into to a "type" of hard clear tubing yes.We have also got flexible tubing arriving this week and we've also upgraded to a factory induction line and capping system to help speed up production since in the last 7 days we've shipped over 4 tonnes of fluid out the door. Were releasing Pastel Extreme with in the next month or so and also we've improved Aurora yet again.
> 
> On a side note Chameleon development has stopped, It would be impossible to *release a heat sensitive product to the public simply because they don't understand thermodynamics well enough to use such a coolant*.This is not saying every one is the same how ever learning from the sales, email and experience from Aurora, Chameleon would be 100,000 times worse due to lack of understanding. The product is now fully working but all development has ceased we will learn from the knowledge we have attained from it and move it into another idea i have.
> 
> So a lot is going on. How ever im taking a break for the weekend and will go back to work monday.
> 
> 
> 
> *But I'm an Engineer* O.O
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go ahead man.. you deserve that vacation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... can't wait for the hard tubing
Click to expand...

Yea . . . . But You Hated Calculus, so . . . .









Ducking for cover as bricks and construction materials are incoming

D.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yea . . . . But You Hated Calculus, so . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ducking for cover as bricks and construction materials are incoming
> 
> D.


Everyone hates calc. Even calc professors hate calc.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yea . . . . But You Hated Calculus, so . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ducking for cover as bricks and construction materials are incoming
> 
> D.


You remembered that? LOL .. but i loved physics specially thermodynamics.. I hated fluids mechanics though.. but when i was forced to take Bridges design classes it grew on me


----------



## marshymellows

Does blitz part 2 work on nickel plated copper? EK Website "When cleaning nickel plated copper it is forbidden to use any aggressive chemicals (neither vinegar) or rough materials as you may damage the plating and thus void the warranty. ".

And one more thing, is it okay to use alcohol to clean the blocks? I plan to take them apart since some stagnant water has managed to push itself between the plexiglass and nickel plating.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Does blitz part 2 work on nickel plated copper? EK Website "When cleaning nickel plated copper it is forbidden to use any aggressive chemicals (neither vinegar) or rough materials as you may damage the plating and thus void the warranty. ".
> 
> And one more thing, is it okay to use alcohol to clean the blocks? I plan to take them apart since some stagnant water has managed to push itself between the plexiglass and nickel plating.


"Don't use Vinegar or anything containing it or similarly acidic / basic on Nickel plate.

Hot Soapy water first followed by metal polish if needed. Some metal polishes are abrasive so toothpaste may be of some help.

A search of Overclock provided these as just some of the threads"
http://www.overclock.net/t/1344936/cleaning-nickel-plated-blocks
http://www.overclock.net/t/1509729/ek-fc-r9-290x-nickel-plexi-corrosion-polish-clean
http://www.overclock.net/t/1407667/cleaning-nickel-gpu-block-koolance
http://www.overclock.net/t/1391140/cleaning-nickel-plating-on-heatsink
http://www.overclock.net/t/1233299/best-way-to-clean-nickel-plated-blocks

Source: http://www.overclock.net/t/1542243/toothpaste-to-clean-nickel-plated-waterblock-and-fittings/0_20#post_23569952

Also, don't use alcohol to clean acrylic





Also, from EK's website:

http://www.ekwb.com/support/index.php?act=article&code=view&id=23


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> "Don't use Vinegar or anything containing it or similarly acidic / basic on Nickel plate.
> 
> Hot Soapy water first followed by metal polish if needed. Some metal polishes are abrasive so toothpaste may be of some help.
> 
> A search of Overclock provided these as just some of the threads"
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1344936/cleaning-nickel-plated-blocks
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1509729/ek-fc-r9-290x-nickel-plexi-corrosion-polish-clean
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1407667/cleaning-nickel-gpu-block-koolance
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1391140/cleaning-nickel-plating-on-heatsink
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1233299/best-way-to-clean-nickel-plated-blocks
> 
> Source: http://www.overclock.net/t/1542243/toothpaste-to-clean-nickel-plated-waterblock-and-fittings/0_20#post_23569952


Thank you!


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Were looking into to a "type" of hard clear tubing yes.We have also got flexible tubing arriving this week and we've also upgraded to a factory induction line and capping system to help speed up production since in the last 7 days we've shipped over 4 tonnes of fluid out the door. Were releasing Pastel Extreme with in the next month or so and also we've improved Aurora yet again.
> 
> On a side note Chameleon development has stopped, It would be impossible to release a heat sensitive product to the public simply because they don't understand thermodynamics well enough to use such a coolant.This is not saying every one is the same how ever learning from the sales, email and experience from Aurora, Chameleon would be 100,000 times worse due to lack of understanding. The product is now fully working but all development has ceased we will learn from the knowledge we have attained from it and move it into another idea i have.
> 
> So a lot is going on. How ever im taking a break for the weekend and will go back to work monday.


Tell me more of this Pastel Extreme.

Also the Chameleon product, I don't suppose you have bunch of it sitting around to maybe sell to OCN members (who I would imagine are above the every-man in knowledge of how this stuff works)? Heck limit the sales to higher rep limited folks who you know for sure are competent enough to be able to use it. Of course that's only if you have a bunch sitting around going to waste. Might as well off load it rather than dumping it down the drain.


----------



## Mayhem

Lol no we don't have loads sitting around it was all brought in house and i hand ground all the silicate / slush myself due to us needing to control the way it was made and the particle size. Im going to take what ive learnt and move it over to something a little diffrent but better and maybe more stable. Time will tell once i get time to play as im more interested in the Kinetic side of the fluid.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Lol no we don't have loads sitting around it was all brought in house and i hand ground all the silicate / slush myself due to us needing to control the way it was made and the particle size. Im going to take what ive learnt and move it over to something a little diffrent but better and maybe more stable. Time will tell once i get time to play as im more interested in the Kinetic side of the fluid.


lol fair enough, sounded like you had already done a full test run of production before deciding people were too stupid to be able to use it right instead of canning it at the end of the R&D phase. I'm not wholly interested in it, was just wanting to see some of the builds it would end up in.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Mayhem Added the Pastel Blue Berry. It's so yummy

















TCO


----------



## FrancisJF

Blue and Green goes well. I like it more than the orange color.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Blue and Green goes well. I like it more than the orange color.


You were the first one to suggest the Blue. And goodness you were right. It's a little darker in the photos than In person. I am going to try to use Dads camera to really capture the colour!

TCO


----------



## Mayhem




----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Everyone hates calc. Even calc professors hate calc.


Not my prof. That guy is mental. Fluid dynamics is crazy, and when you get in to details, it goes even crazier. Glad I am finished with it (last week!).


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












If this is 12mm i've not started building yet. i would love to try these out.


----------



## Mayhem

These are samples were playing with, we've got to get some more in to build a rig with , see how it reacts and how things go and push the system to at least 60c inline temps and see how it fairs. Basicly this is a prototype tube and yup we have several sizes







. This is "NOT" PETG or Acrylic.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> These are samples were playing with, we've got to get some more in to build a rig with , see how it reacts and how things go and push the system to at least 60c inline temps and see how it fairs. Basicly this is a prototype tube and yup we have several sizes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This is "NOT" PETG or Acrylic.


Good Luck Mick.. can't wait to see how it turns out. I guess it's a type of polycarbonate in the end. we will see. Wishing you the best Mick.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Final Shots with Nikon D5100

Blue Berry Pastel and Green Pastel.





TCO


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> This is "NOT" PETG or Acrylic.


What happens if you hit it with a hammer? Shatter? Crack? Dent? Nothing? I'm interested in seeing how easy it is to work with too.


----------



## Mayhem

I doubt you want to hit it with a hammer. Thats a test this would not survive how ever PTEG cannot survive the temps this can also PTEG has ripples in it and is not very heat friendly and also dyes leach into PTEG were as this has none of that. This product won't be for everyone but lets be honest Mayhems is not for everyone and never has been







.









@TheCautiousOne Very very nice


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I doubt you want to hit it with a hammer. Thats a test this would not survive how ever PTEG cannot survive the temps this can also PTEG has ripples in it and is not very heat friendly and also dyes leach into PTEG were as this has none of that. This product won't be for everyone but lets be honest Mayhems is not for everyone and never has been
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @TheCautiousOne Very very nice


My Pleasure Mr. Mick







Your colour options make this build Finalized. Quality pastel to compliment and finish a build









TCO


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I doubt you want to hit it with a hammer. Thats a test this would not survive how ever PTEG cannot survive the temps this can also PTEG has ripples in it and is not very heat friendly and also dyes leach into PTEG were as this has none of that. This product won't be for everyone but lets be honest Mayhems is not for everyone and never has been
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @TheCautiousOne Very very nice


I see. Never used hard tubing although I saw some YouTube videos on PETG where they hit it with a hammer and it withstood the force whereas acrylic shattered everywhere. I think it's @B NEGATIVE that posts quite often against PETG saying acrylic is absolutely fine and even better than PETG, despite it not being as "strong" yet I remember him saying that he's never known anyone that's had acrylic break in their rig. I wonder if he will do some tests against acrylic and your new hard tubing.

So what advantages does this new hard tubing offer over acrylic?


----------



## Mayhem

Its the mod zoo who posted the vid,







When you hit something with a hammer all though it will rebound what you don't see is the micro fracturing until its to late.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I doubt you want to hit it with a hammer. Thats a test this would not survive how ever PTEG cannot survive the temps this can also PTEG has ripples in it and is not very heat friendly and also dyes leach into PTEG were as this has none of that. This product won't be for everyone but lets be honest Mayhems is not for everyone and never has been
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @TheCautiousOne Very very nice


I smelly pricey .. But heck this is OCN.. for the majority "ehmm me not included" if it's not pricey .. it's not worth it


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Final Shots with Nikon D5100
> 
> Blue Berry Pastel and Green Pastel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Nice


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> These are samples were playing with, we've got to get some more in to build a rig with , see how it reacts and how things go and push the system to at least 60c inline temps and see how it fairs. Basicly this is a prototype tube and yup we have several sizes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This is "NOT" PETG or Acrylic.


Glass? Cause I've been wanting to try glass tubing


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Nice


Thanks a ton! Im glad you enjoy it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Glass? Cause I've been wanting to try glass tubing


But how would you cut it???

TCO


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Glass? Cause I've been wanting to try glass tubing


That would seem like a PITA to ship from the UK to the US.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Thanks a ton! Im glad you enjoy it!
> But how would you cut it???
> 
> TCO


Use tool? http://www.amazon.com/C-A-Scientific-Tubing-Cutter/dp/B000TVOJUM


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Use tool? http://www.amazon.com/C-A-Scientific-Tubing-Cutter/dp/B000TVOJUM










Right.... Never saw that before.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Just saw a convo between b neg and another member on that very subject of glass tubing. Of course b neg tried it but doesn't seem possible at this time. Part of it is he heat needed to bend and you need different type if fittings for glass. If anyone can do it I'd out money on a glass blower but just doesn't seem realistic at this time


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> These are samples were playing with, we've got to get some more in to build a rig with , see how it reacts and how things go and push the system to at least 60c inline temps and see how it fairs. Basicly this is a prototype tube and yup we have several sizes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This is "NOT" PETG or Acrylic.


Polycarbonate then?
-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> This is "NOT" PETG or Acrylic.
> 
> 
> 
> What happens if you hit it with a hammer? Shatter? Crack? Dent? Nothing? I'm interested in seeing how easy it is to work with too.
Click to expand...

This guy is asking the right questions. What happens if I drop my rig from a C-17 at 8,500m, will the tubing shatter and leak all over my computer debris?

-Z


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> That would seem like a PITA to ship from the UK to the US.


it's probably easier than acrylic tube aside from weight. I think it can be much sturdier
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right.... Never saw that before.
> 
> TCO


I think it can be bent the same way as the acrylic as well, except may need an open flame instead of a heat gun.


----------



## X-Nine

Um.... Glass, depending on what kind, needs 500-1,000 degrees Celsius to become malleable. How many of you here have room for/can afford a furnace just to bend a few tubes for a build?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Um.... Glass, depending on what kind, needs 500-1,000 degrees Celsius to become malleable. How many of you here have room for/can afford a furnace just to bend a few tubes for a build?


Well an acetylene torch burns at 3,500c so that could work. XD

-Z


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Um.... Glass, depending on what kind, needs 500-1,000 degrees Celsius to become malleable. How many of you here have room for/can afford a furnace just to bend a few tubes for a build?


Probably about 95% of them:



Now you head on out of here and run back to your city with it's condo's and latte's before you hurt yourself.

edit: On a serious note, a chemistry supply would be a good place to get some glass tubing on the cheap.

Something like http://www.hometrainingtools.com/tube-20-mm-glass-24-long/p/CE-TUBE20L/ could be used with some elbow fittings wouldn't be _THAT_ difficult to use and build a loop out of.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Um.... Glass, depending on what kind, needs 500-1,000 degrees Celsius to become malleable. How many of you here have room for/can afford a furnace just to bend a few tubes for a build?


Pretty sure I've seen glass tube bending with a Bunsen burner before. Probably was smaller diameters, but seen it done


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> This guy is asking the right questions. What happens if I drop my rig from a C-17 at 8,500m, will the tubing shatter and leak all over my computer debris?
> 
> -Z


Yeah of course. Acrylic tubing doubles as a self defense tool. Home invasion? No problem! Smash that acrylic in someones face and when it shatters into 20 pieces blinding them, you can take their firearm and John Rambo the rest of them down.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> This guy is asking the right questions. What happens if I drop my rig from a C-17 at 8,500m, will the tubing shatter and leak all over my computer debris?
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah of course. Acrylic tubing doubles as a self defense tool. Home invasion? No problem! Smash that acrylic in someones face and when it shatters into 20 pieces blinding them, you can take their firearm and John Rambo the rest of them down.
Click to expand...

That is highly impractical, why not shatter the end of a tube and use it as a makeshift spear? Would the Mayhems rigid tubing work better for this? These the kinds of questions we need answered Mick!!!









In all seriousness this is getting a little off topic.









-Z


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> That is highly impractical, why not shatter the end of a tube and use it as a makeshift spear? Would the Mayhems rigid tubing work better for this? These the kinds of questions we need answered Mick!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all seriousness this is getting a little off topic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


Then you lose the element of surprise by making a loud noise, alerting the invaders. Come on man, that's chapter one of the SAS urban survival handbook.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> That is highly impractical, why not shatter the end of a tube and use it as a makeshift spear? Would the Mayhems rigid tubing work better for this? These the kinds of questions we need answered Mick!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all seriousness this is getting a little off topic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Then you lose the element of surprise by making a loud noise, alerting the invaders. Come on man, that's chapter one of the SAS urban survival handbook.
Click to expand...

I'm Norwegian mate, the only element of surprise I need is the look on their face as I'm running at them shirtless yelling at the top of my lungs.









-Z


----------



## sylarspock

I'm trying to make my Mahems Pastel Blue darker.
I'm currently using 2x 250ml Concentrate with 1Litre of Distilled water.

I'm looking at this 2 options.

1) Buy More Mayhems Pastel Blue Concentrate and add to the loop

2) Buy Mayhems Blue Dye and add a drop or two

Could someone kindly advise?

Here's a pic of the my loop and wires, trying to bring the pastel blue closer to my cables.



Thanks


----------



## kizwan

More (same colour) concentrate will not make it darker. Use dye to make it darker.


----------



## Mayhem

I love all this guessing











Please remember this is all development stuff We are looking to bring down the prices of stuff that shouldn't necessary be so high in the UK.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The slim profile looks good Mick. I assume they look a bit bigger than the EK fittings because they are female threaded. Too many hardline fittings are bulky and oversize.

Edit: Or are you guys just looking at doing tubing? I just realised those might be BP fittings or another EK 16mm female


----------



## Mayhem

It looks like it will fit, BP, EK and Primochill but until we have a fully built rig we won't know. My stress testing of taking the liquids up to 100c will be the real big test.







Ive been doing my homework









Simple to cut


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylarspock*
> 
> I'm trying to make my Mahems Pastel Blue darker.
> I'm currently using 2x 250ml Concentrate with 1Litre of Distilled water.
> 
> I'm looking at this 2 options.
> 
> 1) Buy More Mayhems Pastel Blue Concentrate and add to the loop
> 
> 2) Buy Mayhems Blue Dye and add a drop or two
> 
> Could someone kindly advise?
> 
> Here's a pic of the my loop and wires, trying to bring the pastel blue closer to my cables.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Get some dye and add a couple drops at a time. Since it's in your loop already, wait a little while after adding dye for it to circulate correctly. I've had it where I've added it to what looked good at the time, but after some time it was way darker than intended.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It looks like it will fit, BP, EK and Primochill but until we have a fully built rig we won't know. My stress testing of taking the liquids up to 100c will be the real big test.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ive been doing my homework
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Simple to cut


Looks pretty sweet. Judging by the previous comment, either no one has guessed it or you're keeping it pretty tight lipped about the material...


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylarspock*
> 
> I'm trying to make my Mahems Pastel Blue darker.
> I'm currently using 2x 250ml Concentrate with 1Litre of Distilled water.
> 
> I'm looking at this 2 options.
> 
> 1) Buy More Mayhems Pastel Blue Concentrate and add to the loop
> 
> 2) Buy Mayhems Blue Dye and add a drop or two
> 
> Could someone kindly advise?
> 
> Here's a pic of the my loop and wires, trying to bring the pastel blue closer to my cables.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


use purple to darken it up.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylarspock*
> 
> I'm trying to make my Mahems Pastel Blue darker.
> I'm currently using 2x 250ml Concentrate with 1Litre of Distilled water.
> 
> I'm looking at this 2 options.
> 
> 1) Buy More Mayhems Pastel Blue Concentrate and add to the loop
> 
> 2) Buy Mayhems Blue Dye and add a drop or two
> 
> Could someone kindly advise?
> 
> Here's a pic of the my loop and wires, trying to bring the pastel blue closer to my cables.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I don't know if they sell it anymore but dark blue dye darken mine with a few drops.


----------



## Ramzinho

Mick You need to stop teasing US.. really man


----------



## bigboy678

Hey Mick, you mentioned a few threads back you improved aurora a bit. Can you elaborate on how and possibly when we might see it?


----------



## Mayhem

Its been rolled out and the name stays aurora 2 , basicly its now even smaller and now more consistent and basicly will last even longer.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Mick You need to stop teasing US.. really man


Get use to it mate, he has a habit of posting a cliff hangers and details about new products, but not actually giving out technical data until it drops. It's a good strategy, if a bit sadistic.









-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its been rolled out and the name stays aurora 2 , basicly its now even smaller and now more consistent and basicly will last even longer.


I swear I've seen you say you've improved Aurora three times since Aurora 2 has dropped. At this rate the particle suspension will outlive the coolant. XD Are the new smaller particles going to be incorporated into the Aurora Booster as well?

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh they are being moved into the booster too. It has been improved a few times. All to do with me learning more and more about mixing and the usage of the milling system we have. Also the fact we use zirconium oxide beads and found a way to filter out the 3 micron beads







. This obv still all goes on in between productions.

Also ill need some testers soon for the new "Colours (not Dyes)" we have for pastel extreme e.g Black, Red and Green. They are not dyes we are using but other compounds mixed in with Pastel extreme to a nano level. So they wont stain how ever like pastel will get into any nook and cranny they can find which should be obvious to any one who been following what we've been working on.

The new types of hard tubing we've been working on plus the new Soft tubing are all coming along fine, the soft tubing should be with us very soon and on sale very soon. Were awaiting on pricing on one type of hard tubing and were testing the second set of hard tubing (both total different products aimed at diffrent ends of the market but both inexpensive).

As for fittings i have to question why should we make fitting when the likes of BP, EK and Barrow all have what i would personally consider near perfect fittings out already (why compete with some thing that is already really good), Im personally not into copying and following trends how ever if we can help bring down the price of parts then we will look into it. Its all just a hobby at the end of the day and consumer rule our decisions.

Mick




Some are very close how ever its a Type of Product but not a normal Type







hahaha


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh they are being moved into the booster too. It has been improved a few times. All to do with me learning more and more about mixing and the usage of the milling system we have. Also the fact we use zirconium oxide beads and found a way to filter out the 3 micron beads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This obv still all goes on in between productions.
> 
> Also ill need some testers soon for the new "Colours (not Dyes)" we have for pastel extreme e.g Black, Red and Green. *They are not dyes we are using but other compounds mixed in with Pastel extreme to a nano level. So they wont stain how ever like pastel will get into any nook and cranny they can find which should be obvious to any one who been following what we've been working on.*
> 
> The new types of hard tubing we've been working on plus the new Soft tubing are all coming along fine, the soft tubing should be with us very soon and on sale very soon. Were awaiting on pricing on one type of hard tubing and were testing the second set of hard tubing (both total different products aimed at diffrent ends of the market but both inexpensive).
> 
> As for fittings i have to question why should we make fitting when the likes of BP, EK and Barrow all have what i would personally consider near perfect fittings out already (why compete with some thing that is already really good), Im personally not into copying and following trends how ever if we can help bring down the price of parts then we will look into it. Its all just a hobby at the end of the day and consumer rule our decisions.
> 
> Mick
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some are very close how ever its a Type of Product but not a normal Type
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hahaha


Finally rolling out the coloured nanoparticles? I heard you mention those way back when you first announced project decimation. Are there going to be any UV reactive nano particles with the introduction of pastel extreme? I think I recall you mentioning they can be manufactured to be UV reactive.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Yes they will be UV active (well some will).

Oky Robert guessed it on my personal Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/mlwood37) the tubing were deving is a new type of high end pryex glass. It is handmade for us here in the UK and we will be making preformed bends. The sizes will fit most fittings how ever we've decided that it will only be sold via mayhems to keep the prices low as possible. ATM we should be able to retail it about the same or lower than current plastic tubing prices.

You can easily cut it with diamond dremel parts which we are going to look into getting in the store and you can just use silicone carbide powder with water or wet and dry with water to clean the ends off. Its easier than plastic to cut and work with and lets put it this way, it doesn't stain, it doesn't crack, its harder than plastic and can take upto 1500c + worth of heat







How ever it's not for the normal user, its for the more discerning modder who doesn't want to be like anyone else .... mahahahahaha

OBV its glass so you need to be careful how you work with it .... Stuff low grade plastic this isn't glass like, it is glass. Ripple me not ......

Size wise it will be

1/2 Meter Straight
1/4 Meter Straight
1/4 Meter 90 degree Preformed bend
1/4 Meter 45 degree Preformed bend
2 to 3 diffrent sizes

We may make more custom bends to fit certain mainboards how ever we do not know yet.

Does work with Bitspower, EK, Primochill and some Monsoon fittings.

Some ppl said it cannot be done ..... bollocks OFC it can. There are no limits to liquid cooling the only limit is your imagination.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Soft tubing has landed and now on sale in store. it will be shipped out to resellers soon.

Just a word of warning we have 45000 meters of it but its going like poo off a stick ....


----------



## bkvamme

Wow. Gobsmacked. Will definitely concider that pryex when I am upgrading my loop. Any plans on making reservoirs off the same glass?


----------



## Mayhem

We have no reason to make any reservoirs or anything like that atm how ever we can make replacement Glass tubes for the current versions out there.

Here is a quick shot (not had much time to mess on)

Glass vs Primochill 1 month old tubing. (not a fair comparison but meh what's fair in this life)


Below is a pic of the new flex tubing by us which is now on sale


----------



## Jakusonfire

Will be interested to see how that goes. I prefer using straight runs of rigid tube with angled fittings anyway so that might work well for me. It always worries me when people say tubing fits metric and Imperial fittings though.


----------



## Mayhem

With hard tubing its only the OD that matters the ID doesn't matter. Using rubber 0-Rings to hold the tubing in place also gives a degree of expansion and movement with double / triple seals this helps a lot as well.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yes of course, but there is a difference in the size of metric and imperial fittings. If a tubing fits both it risks eating into any safety margin for variation in tube size.
If you have tubing that fits 5/8 fittings and use it in 16mm fittings it only needs to be slightly undersized before it becomes very risky.

I firmly believe that when it comes to rigid the tubing should be a direct match for the fittings used.

There was a guy on the forums just recently having a nightmare with leaking because he bought tubing marked as 16mm (actually 5/8 though) and used it with bitspower 16mm fittings.


----------



## Mayhem

Dont forget there are also compression o-ring fittings to and they exsert force with the o-ring so again its not so much of an issue. Been testing this out for the last few weeks







.

The only thing with glass and o-ring is use a little silicone grease on the o-ring and things go easily with that and helps create a better seal..


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Soft tubing has landed and now on sale in store. it will be shipped out to resellers soon.
> 
> Just a word of warning we have 45000 meters of it but its going like poo off a stick ....


Would you happen to know if the 1/2" 3/4" tubing is more flexible than Duerlene? Mine is about to run out and I'm interested in your tubing since you guys make really good stuff.


----------



## Mayhem

I don't have duraleen so cannot say if it is or not. Its about the same as primochill (just a little more flexible). The problem you have is if you make it to flexible it can cloud or change colour quicker depending on conditions set in place..


----------



## tommi6o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh they are being moved into the booster too. It has been improved a few times. All to do with me learning more and more about mixing and the usage of the milling system we have. Also the fact we use zirconium oxide beads and found a way to filter out the 3 micron beads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This obv still all goes on in between productions.
> 
> Also ill need some testers soon for the new "Colours (not Dyes)" we have for pastel extreme e.g Black, Red and Green. They are not dyes we are using but other compounds mixed in with Pastel extreme to a nano level. So they wont stain how ever like pastel will get into any nook and cranny they can find which should be obvious to any one who been following what we've been working on.
> 
> The new types of hard tubing we've been working on plus the new Soft tubing are all coming along fine, the soft tubing should be with us very soon and on sale very soon. Were awaiting on pricing on one type of hard tubing and were testing the second set of hard tubing (both total different products aimed at diffrent ends of the market but both inexpensive).
> 
> As for fittings i have to question why should we make fitting when the likes of BP, EK and Barrow all have what i would personally consider near perfect fittings out already (why compete with some thing that is already really good), Im personally not into copying and following trends how ever if we can help bring down the price of parts then we will look into it. Its all just a hobby at the end of the day and consumer rule our decisions.
> 
> Mick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some are very close how ever its a Type of Product but not a normal Type
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hahaha


Do you have already selected the people who will be testing the new colors?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Alright, I'll give it a shot anyway as it's about the same price. Which US resellers will be carrying it?


----------



## Mayhem

PPC. Were sorting out how much they need atm.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes they will be UV active (well some will).
> 
> Oky Robert guessed it on my personal Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/mlwood37) the tubing were deving is a new type of high end pryex glass. It is handmade for us here in the UK and we will be making preformed bends. The sizes will fit most fittings how ever we've decided that it will only be sold via mayhems to keep the prices low as possible. ATM we should be able to retail it about the same or lower than current plastic tubing prices.
> 
> You can easily cut it with diamond dremel parts which we are going to look into getting in the store and you can just use silicone carbide powder with water or wet and dry with water to clean the ends off. Its easier than plastic to cut and work with and lets put it this way, it doesn't stain, it doesn't crack, its harder than plastic and can take upto 1500c + worth of heat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How ever it's not for the normal user, its for the more discerning modder who doesn't want to be like anyone else .... mahahahahaha
> 
> OBV its glass so you need to be careful how you work with it .... Stuff low grade plastic this isn't glass like, it is glass. Ripple me not ......
> 
> Size wise it will be
> 
> 1/2 Meter Straight
> 1/4 Meter Straight
> 1/4 Meter 90 degree Preformed bend
> 1/4 Meter 45 degree Preformed bend
> 2 to 3 diffrent sizes
> 
> We may make more custom bends to fit certain mainboards how ever we do not know yet.
> 
> Does work with Bitspower, EK, Primochill and some Monsoon fittings.
> 
> Some ppl said it cannot be done ..... bollocks OFC it can. There are no limits to liquid cooling the only limit is your imagination.


I totally said glass a several posts back









All the new products coming out is pretty exciting. Can't wait to start seeing the builds using the new tubing


----------



## Mayhem

As for the flex tubing

Here is a pic of the glass Tubing Vs our new flex tubing, i think you'll be quite surprised











It would help ofc if i removed the air but i don't have time to mess on haha.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylarspock*
> 
> I'm trying to make my Mahems Pastel Blue darker.
> I'm currently using 2x 250ml Concentrate with 1Litre of Distilled water.
> 
> I'm looking at this 2 options.
> 
> 1) Buy More Mayhems Pastel Blue Concentrate and add to the loop
> 
> 2) Buy Mayhems Blue Dye and add a drop or two
> 
> Could someone kindly advise?
> 
> Here's a pic of the my loop and wires, trying to bring the pastel blue closer to my cables.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I used white pastel as a base and added blue dye to it. You can do the same with the pastel blue to make it darker.


----------



## USMC Modder

I'm really excited to see how the new pastel coolant looks and holds up. I am redoing my wife's loop in her computer and switching to green dye. Any sort of timeline when it will be hitting stores? I would also be glad to test it out if you are still looking for people.


----------



## sylarspock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> More (same colour) concentrate will not make it darker. Use dye to make it darker.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I don't know if they sell it anymore but dark blue dye darken mine with a few drops.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> use purple to darken it up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Get some dye and add a couple drops at a time. Since it's in your loop already, wait a little while after adding dye for it to circulate correctly. I've had it where I've added it to what looked good at the time, but after some time it was way darker than intended.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> More (same colour) concentrate will not make it darker. Use dye to make it darker.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> I used white pastel as a base and added blue dye to it. You can do the same with the pastel blue to make it darker.


Thanks for the pictures and suggestions guys.









Guess I'll just buy MAYHEMS NON STAIN BLUE DYE - 15ML and add it to my loop








Thanks!


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylarspock*
> 
> Thanks for the pictures and suggestions guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I'll just buy blue dye and give it a spin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Make sure that you do like Cyphon said and only add 1 drop at a time, and give it some time to mix in before adding more.


----------



## Mayhem

The new pastel is ready to go (white) Pastel extreme, just awaiting some samples of the new bottles ... they are a bit late. As for the new pastel extreme colours they will come a bit later.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I've put up a review of The pastel. Im not a crazy good reviewer but have videos if that helps









The Review

TCO


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The new pastel is ready to go (white) Pastel extreme, just awaiting some samples of the new bottles ... they are a bit late. As for the new pastel extreme colours they will come a bit later.


Differences between original pastel and pastel extreme?


----------



## tommi6o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Differences between original pastel and pastel extreme?


Correct me if I'm wrong. From one bottle of extreme (100ml instead of 250ml) you can make 2l of coolant and the colors look better in my opinion.


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel extreme

Is better at cooling and will be the same as water or just slightly better depending on your temps. Only 50ml per 950ml of water is needed. The new colours are not dyes how ever they still need more testing. Better coating and better at lubricating. More will be revealed on release.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pastel extreme
> 
> Is better at cooling and will be the same as water or just slightly better depending on your temps. Only 50ml per 950ml of water is needed. The new colours are not dyes how ever they still need more testing. Better coating and better at lubricating. More will be revealed on release.


When my ice white begins to change tints, I'm moving to extreme.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> *
> I totally said glass a several posts back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> All the new products coming out is pretty exciting. Can't wait to start seeing the builds using the new tubing


Glass is a vague term for a silica based material, silica meaning silicon dioxide. Pyrex is a borosilicate glass, meaning it has boron-oxide and a couple other bits of things.

Also, careful with that terminology Mick, Corning Incorporated owns the trademark to Pyrex glass.

-Z.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tommi6o*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Differences between original pastel and pastel extreme?
> 
> 
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong. From one bottle of extreme (100ml instead of 250ml) you can make 2l of coolant and the colors look better in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Pastel Extreme also uses coloured nano-particles as opposed to normal pastel which uses liquid dyes.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

nail on the head moment







its a type of pryex.







when we name it, it will some thing totally diffrent like "Mayhems fandabbydosey glass like not, it real glass tubing"


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pastel extreme
> 
> Is better at cooling and will be the same as water or just slightly better depending on your temps. Only 50ml per 950ml of water is needed. The new colours are not dyes how ever they still need more testing. Better coating and better at lubricating. More will be revealed on release.


Sweet, does the better lubricating translate into a superior flow rate than the other pastel or is it not enough to make a notable difference on that front. Under load I'm only running 7 degrees over ambient so the better temps aren't a big deal to me, but if I can put less stress on my pump that would translate less noise and that would be fantastic


----------



## Ramzinho

Well i figured that out the moment i saw the blow torch







.. This is a very risky move mick. it's interesting and nice. but man you are making Bitspower so happy now that they will sell tons of those angled rigid fittings









I hope you provide a cutting tool or something with a good amount of tubing. and i'm already imagining the packaging will not be cheap.

Good luck Mick. You bring the new to the market and i hope you the best mate.

Ramz


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Well i figured that out the moment i saw the blow torch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. This is a very risky move mick. it's interesting and nice. but man you are making Bitspower so happy now that *they will sell tons of those angled rigid fittings*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you provide a cutting tool or something with a good amount of tubing. and i'm already imagining the packaging will not be cheap.
> 
> Good luck Mick. You bring the new to the market and i hope you the best mate.
> 
> Ramz










Im ready.

TCO


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pastel extreme
> 
> Is better at cooling and will be the same as water or just slightly better depending on your temps. Only 50ml per 950ml of water is needed. The new colours are not dyes how ever they still need more testing. Better coating and better at lubricating. More will be revealed on release.


Sounds great, when you hoping for release, and for when we get to see.


----------



## Chiobe

It might be somewhere in here, but I didnt manage to find it with search.

I'm looking at doing a build with UV Red, but do you need constant UV light to get the color?
Also, would it stain more then normal Red?

Also, does tubing and hard tubing react to the UV?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> It might be somewhere in here, but I didnt manage to find it with search.
> 
> I'm looking at doing a build with UV Red, but do you need constant UV light to get the color?
> Also, would it stain more then normal Red?
> 
> Also, does tubing and hard tubing react to the UV?


I believe all U/V coolants are clear making the UV Red is simply the clear U/V coolant with red dye added to it. Thus, no you don't need a U/V light to make it that color, and yes it will stain like hell (unless you use the non-staining dye ofcourse)


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I believe all U/V coolants are clear making the UV Red is simply the clear U/V coolant with red dye added to it. Thus, no you don't need a U/V light to make it that color, and yes it will stain like hell (unless you use the non-staining dye ofcourse)


I want the UV effect, but will it show in normal light if the UV light is on or does it only work when its dark?

I guess staining is the price you pay for the look.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> I want the UV effect, but will it show in normal light if the UV light is on or does it only work when its dark?
> 
> I guess staining is the price you pay for the look.


the normal light won't disrupt or alter the effects of the U/V lamp on a U/V reactive substance if that's what you are asking. How visible the effect is will depend on how dim the normal lighting is. The dimmer the normal lighting the more prevalent the U/V effect will be. Gonna have to do some experimenting to get it to work right. Would probably suggest more directed lighting to highlight what you want in the normal lighting and to prevent the purplish glow put off by the U/V lights. Should give you the best bang for your buck as far as how bright the lighting can be and how visible the U/V effect is.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> It might be somewhere in here, but I didnt manage to find it with search.
> 
> I'm looking at doing a build with UV Red, but do you need constant UV light to get the color?
> Also, would it stain more then normal Red?
> 
> Also, does tubing and hard tubing react to the UV?


UV Red doesn't exist. All brands marketing with Red UV coolant is actually coolant with red dye, and UV pink dye. You need a UV light to have UV effects. If you want a UV red coolant you'll need to experiment with red dye, and UV pink dye to try and get your ideal colour with/without UV lights.

-Z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I believe all U/V coolants are clear making the UV Red is simply the clear U/V coolant with red dye added to it. Thus, no you don't need a U/V light to make it that color, and yes it will stain like hell (unless you use the non-staining dye ofcourse)


UV Clear doesn't exist. The Clear UV coolants actually have UV blue in them, and UV blue is transparent without UV lights. Adding clear uv dye (also known as invisible blue, clear / uv blue, etc.) will simply make it bright blue under UV lights.

-Z


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> UV Red doesn't exist. All brands marketing with Red UV coolant is actually coolant with red dye, and UV pink dye. You need a UV light to have UV effects. If you want a UV red coolant you'll need to experiment with red dye, and UV pink dye to try and get your ideal colour with/without UV lights.
> 
> -Z


It says UV Red: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/x1-uv-red-1ltr.html


----------



## Mayhem

UV Red is a mix or Red + UV Pink this has been explained to you allready.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> UV Red is a mix or Red + UV Pink this has been explained to you allready.


I thought he ment that I had to mix them to get the resault I was after.

Speaking of mixing, can I fill the loop with Destilled water (too leak test) and mix in coolant and dye after?


----------



## emsj86

Just a suggestions can't you use uv pastel white than add non drain red dye. That way you get the uv color underights but get a red color when the lights or u it is off. Yes you can fill with distilled only reason I say to drain than add is because depending how much coolant liters your loop takes the mix might not be right. To get there perfect mix I'd follow the instructions and mix outside. Than you can add the dye once in the loop doing one drop at a time giving hours to a day in between a couple drops as over alittle time it will mix more. For example I add blue dye all at once and after running for the night it wended up a shade slightly darker than I wanted but looked spot on at first. Just some good for thought


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Well i figured that out the moment i saw the blow torch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. This is a very risky move mick. it's interesting and nice. but man you are making Bitspower so happy now that they will sell tons of those angled rigid fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you provide a cutting tool or something with a good amount of tubing. and i'm already imagining the packaging will not be cheap.
> 
> Good luck Mick. You bring the new to the market and i hope you the best mate.
> 
> Ramz


Which is why a Mayhem's fitting line to go with it would be sweet


----------



## Mayhem

Some news ..

We've dropped all the Flex tubing 10/13 (smaller size) were not happy with it as its smoky and this is not good enough for us. The samples we were given were perfect (after a few attempts) but for some reason the smaller thinner tubing is not upto the standard we expect there for we are sending it back and will re list it once the issues are sorted. We will not sell crap simples.







So if you were going to get some from us .. sorry you'll have to wait a bit longer.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Some news ..
> 
> We've dropped all the Flex tubing 10/13 (smaller size) were not happy with it as its smoky and this is not good enough for us. The samples we were given were perfect (after a few attempts) but for some reason the smaller thinner tubing is not upto the standard we expect there for we are sending it back and will re list it once the issues are sorted. We will not sell crap simples.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if you were going to get some from us .. sorry you'll have to wait a bit longer.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Some news ..
> 
> We've dropped all the Flex tubing 10/13 (smaller size) were not happy with it as its smoky and this is not good enough for us. The samples we were given were perfect (after a few attempts) but for some reason the smaller thinner tubing is not upto the standard we expect there for we are sending it back and will re list it once the issues are sorted. We will not sell crap simples.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if you were going to get some from us .. sorry you'll have to wait a bit longer.


yay for qa


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> UV Clear doesn't exist. The Clear UV coolants actually have UV blue in them, and UV blue is transparent without UV lights. Adding clear uv dye (also known as invisible blue, clear / uv blue, etc.) will simply make it bright blue under UV lights.
> 
> -Z


Cool, thanks for correcting me on that









edit: Yay, got my tubing ordered!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> I thought he ment that I had to mix them to get the resault I was after.
> 
> Speaking of mixing, can I fill the loop with Destilled water (too leak test) and mix in coolant and dye after?


Yes. This is Distilled water being mixed with Pastel.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











TCO


----------



## kizwan

I can't do like that. Personal preference of course. I prefer mixing outside the loop. Much easier for me.


----------



## Mayhem

World first ever Pastel Extreme Non Stain UV Green Nanofluid (sample test) with the new Mayhems Flex tubing -> No dyes are used in this new fluid its totally dye free.





The new tubing is really good







well impressed tbh.

Advantages of coolant

Should Always stay the same colour
Should not lose UV reaction over time
Its not a dye
Will not Stain
Same heat removal capacity as water or better
Human Safe
Animal Safe

Disadvantages of coolant

Its a nano fluid so will fall out when left for periods of time when left standing. We cannot stop the laws of gravity only slow it down








.
Should not be used in Excessive heat systems over 60c (inlines temps taking into account ambient temps as well). This is the same as with hard Plastic based tubing and reservoirs so really should be on no issue whatsoever.


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> World first ever Pastel Extreme Non Stain UV Green Nanofluid (sample test) with the new Mayhems Flex tubing -> No dyes are used in this new fluid its totally dye free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new tubing is really good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well impressed tbh.
> 
> Advantages of coolant
> 
> Should Always stay the same colour
> Should not lose UV reaction over time
> Its not a dye
> Will not Stain
> Same heat removal capacity as water or better
> Human Safe
> Animal Safe
> 
> Disadvantages of coolant
> 
> Its a nano fluid so will fall out when left for periods of time when left standing. We cannot stop the laws of gravity only slow it down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Looking good!


----------



## Mads1

@Mayhem that is a job well done, look forward to seeing this on the shelf, What are your planned colours.


----------



## Mayhem

Colour will take time as each individual colour has to tested for tolerance as each Nano coloured coolant will be a diffrent make up unlike dyes.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Colour will take time as each individual colour has to tested for tolerance as each Nano coloured coolant will be a diffrent make up unlike dyes.


Whats your time scale for first release, and what colour you gonna launch first.







plus are you going to do any slimmer rads like 40/45mm in ( white )


----------



## SteezyTN

What pastel color would look good with the primochill anodized red revolver fittings. When I decide to order my CL SMA8, I may reuse the red fittings or I may buy different color caps from primochill. I'm currently using ice white, but will any other color look good with red fittings?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What pastel color would look good with the primochill anodized red revolver fittings. When I decide to order my CL SMA8, I may reuse the red fittings or I may buy different color caps from primochill. I'm currently using ice white, but will any other color look good with red fittings?


White, red, black.

Could do yellow or orange too. If you had the right purple or blue it'd work too


----------



## Mayhem

The Pastel Extreme Non Stain Coolants were working on are

UV Red (ill do my best to make it as UV red as possible but don't expect miracle's)
UV Orange (pain in the ass to make but does look good)
UV Yellow (this is a kick ass colour have to admit)
UV Blue (hmm yeh its blue and UV active not much more to say than that)
UV White (you've seen it before)
UV Pink (it doesn't stain Whooot)
None UV Black (sorry cannot make it UV active)


----------



## Mayhem

Why is this post STILL NOT AN OFFICIAL OWNER CLUB !!!!!!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Not sure Mick lol. But still loving the Blood Red x1 and about to tear down the R.C70 so I'll be putting the green pastel back in the bottle till the next build


----------



## DNMock

Just thought of something, since you are getting such a better yield out of the pastel extreme concentrate and it has higher heat transfer rates than the regular pastel, you are obviously getting a much higher percentage of "X"-oxide nano particles in there or using some completely different "Y"-oxides.

Any special safety precautions gonna need to be taken beyond the original pastels?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Just thought of something, since you are getting such a better yield out of the pastel extreme concentrate and it has higher heat transfer rates than the regular pastel, you are obviously getting a much higher percentage of "X"-oxide nano particles in there or using some completely different "Y"-oxides.
> 
> Any special safety precautions gonna need to be taken beyond the original pastels?


Unlikely to be using a different nano-particle for Pastel Extreme. Pastel has always been based on Ice Dragon Nano Fluid, which was designed as a performance nano-fluid. Since pastel has always used the same nano particles, likely on the only change is the inclusion of nano particles in place of the dyes. If my suspicions are correct it may be due to the shape of the particles increasing turbulence, but that is based solely on assumption so don't think I have any idea what I'm talking about on that last part.









-Z


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The Pastel Extreme Non Stain Coolants were working on are
> 
> UV Red (ill do my best to make it as UV red as possible but don't expect miracle's)
> UV Orange (pain in the ass to make but does look good)
> UV Yellow (this is a kick ass colour have to admit)
> UV Blue (hmm yeh its blue and UV active not much more to say than that)
> UV White (you've seen it before)
> UV Pink (it doesn't stain Whooot)
> None UV Black (sorry cannot make it UV active)


How long can you leave the system off before the particles fall, ie: if you go on holiday for a couple of weeks do i need to take my system with me in the suitcase.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Hey Mick, you should really consider attaching Datasheet for your products on your websites product pages. From what I've seen you pretty much list everything on this forum thread about your products which would normally be in a datasheet. Having an easily accessible datasheet for your tubing like tygon would probably save a lot of time and effort explaining the various aspects about it to everyone. Same goes for the dyes and coolants. Having all the information about functional temperature ranges, pH ranges, etc. right there on an easily accessible PDF would probably make customer service a world easier, and would help people in designing loops with Q&As that aren't typically readily available. From what I've seen you already run all those tests before you launch a product anyways.

Just a suggestion.









-Z


----------



## Mayhem

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/support/msds-sheets

There all there and have been for a while. OBV new products dont get data sheets until there released. Also in line with REACH we don't necessarily need to use data sheets on some products any more how ever we still do.

Data sheet for products ie temps, PH ranges ect ect yeh good idea how ever it all takes time which simply put i dont have atm.

Ill have to get the data sheets up for the tubing later haven't had time to do that yet.


----------



## bkvamme

Quick question.

I have cleaned my loop with Part 2, and I am now in the process of flushing it with distilled water. I am approaching the end of run two, and there is still what appears to be soap foam, and I am starting to run out of distilled water (had 4.4liter before I started flushing!). I think I have enough to flush distilled water through it one more time, but what do I do if I still have some foam? Should I take the loop apart and clean each component with distilled water manually? It almost appears that there are some small pockets where the detergent gathers...


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Quick question.
> 
> I have cleaned my loop with Part 2, and I am now in the process of flushing it with distilled water. I am approaching the end of run two, and there is still what appears to be soap foam, and I am starting to run out of distilled water (had 4.4liter before I started flushing!). I think I have enough to flush distilled water through it one more time, but what do I do if I still have some foam? Should I take the loop apart and clean each component with distilled water manually? It almost appears that there are some small pockets where the detergent gathers...


Use tap water then final flush or two with distilled.


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Use tap water then final flush or two with distilled.


Okay, thanks. My loop is pretty small, but still holds around 0.8-1.0 liters of water...


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The Pastel Extreme Non Stain Coolants were working on are
> 
> UV Red (ill do my best to make it as UV red as possible but don't expect miracle's)
> UV Orange (pain in the ass to make but does look good)
> UV Yellow (this is a kick ass colour have to admit)
> UV Blue (hmm yeh its blue and UV active not much more to say than that)
> UV White (you've seen it before)
> UV Pink (it doesn't stain Whooot)
> None UV Black (sorry cannot make it UV active)


Just UV colores?


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Okay, thanks. My loop is pretty small, but still holds around 0.8-1.0 liters of water...


No probs, just keep flushing tap water as i said.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Why is this post STILL NOT AN OFFICIAL OWNER CLUB !!!!!!!


I hope this gets sorted out!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> How long can you leave the system off before the particles fall, ie: if you go on holiday for a couple of weeks do i need to take my system with me in the suitcase.


I have a dual loop with pastel in each. After I leave the system off overnight... I see the true colours at the top of the liquid line in the reservoirs. But as soon as I turn on the system the flow mixes it all back up. I wouldn't travel with fluid in my system.

TCO


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I hope this gets sorted out!
> I have a dual loop with pastel in each. After I leave the system off overnight... I see the true colours at the top of the liquid line in the reservoirs. But as soon as I turn on the system the flow mixes it all back up. I wouldn't travel with fluid in my system.
> 
> TCO


If arura does this... Pastel is safer


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> If arura does this... Pastel is safer
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a great video. But why do you say that the Pastel is safer?

TCO


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That is a great video. But why do you say that the Pastel is safer?
> 
> TCO


Smaller particles, which means less likely to get caught in microchannels in blocks, or in nooks and crannies.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kinaesthetic*
> 
> Smaller particles, which means less likely to get caught in microchannels in blocks, or in nooks and crannies.










I've heard this before just never stuck yet! I appreciate that.

TCO


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The Pastel Extreme Non Stain Coolants were working on are
> 
> UV Red (ill do my best to make it as UV red as possible but don't expect miracle's)
> UV Orange (pain in the ass to make but does look good)
> UV Yellow (this is a kick ass colour have to admit)
> UV Blue (hmm yeh its blue and UV active not much more to say than that)
> UV White (you've seen it before)
> UV Pink (it doesn't stain Whooot)
> None UV Black (sorry cannot make it UV active)
> 
> 
> 
> How long can you leave the system off before the particles fall, ie: if you go on holiday for a couple of weeks do i need to take my system with me in the suitcase.
Click to expand...

I thought you're referring to the Pastel Extreme but since I saw TCO replying to you, I just want to add my experience with the Mayhems Pastel (regular, not the new Extreme version).

The longest my system off was one week. I actually don't remember whether I noticed the nano particles fall out of suspension before I turn on my system after a week, but I do know the particles will fall out of suspension after a while. All I know, which I did noticed, is that if I turn off the system overnight, the next day the particles doesn't fall out of suspension, at least that what I see with naked eye of course (judging by the colour at the top part of the fluid). Anyway, after a week, if the particle did fall out of suspension, when the coolant start moving again, the particle will mixing with fluid again. For a couple of weeks, it should be ok I think without draining the loop. I'm pretty sure Mayhems or other expert will correct me if I'm wrong here.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Use tap water then final flush or two with distilled.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Okay, thanks. My loop is pretty small, but still holds around 0.8-1.0 liters of water...


I wouldn't use tap. The point of part 1 and part 2 specifically is to remove impurities. That's what part 2 is for.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I wouldn't use tap. The point of part 1 and part 2 specifically is to remove impurities. That's what part 2 is for.


Once you do quick rinse of tap followed by distilled, cant see a problem unless water soaks into metal.







link how to flush system


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I thought you're referring to the Pastel Extreme but since I saw TCO replying to you, I just want to add my experience with the Mayhems Pastel (regular, not the new Extreme version).
> 
> The longest my system off was one week. I actually don't remember whether I noticed the nano particles fall out of suspension before I turn on my system after a week, but I do know the particles will fall out of suspension after a while. All I know, which I did noticed, is that if I turn off the system overnight, the next day the particles doesn't fall out of suspension, at least that what I see with naked eye of course *(judging by the colour at the top part of the fluid)*. Anyway, after a week, if the particle did fall out of suspension, when the coolant start moving again, the particle will mixing with fluid again. For a couple of weeks, it should be ok I think without draining the loop. I'm pretty sure Mayhems or other expert will correct me if I'm wrong here.


THis is the main thing. The Colour at the top of the fluid in the res after a day or (12hours) is strong like something is floating.

TCO


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> If arura does this... Pastel is safer


WOW!!!!!... Was three years ago I did these vids, Pretty much the time that Mick (Mayhems) first brought out the Arura fluids. Didn't think anyone would still be looking at the vids I did back that far







...

Thanks for bringing back happy memories







...

Nam...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Noticed my Blood Red X1 got darker. . Actually like the darker red


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> THis is the main thing. The Colour at the top of the fluid in the res after a day or (12hours) is strong like something is floating.
> 
> TCO


Yeah, you let it sit for a while it the top does look quite a bit darker.

Here is the left-over pastel w/ blue and purple dye that's been sitting around for a few months:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







kind of tough to see since it's in plastic jug that the distilled water came in, but still visible.

Was like that after about a week of sitting and when I went to top off the loop just gave it a good shaking and it was right as rain afterwards. Don't think there is any negative effects, just the dye probably being ever so slightly less dense then the pastels, having slightly too much pastel concentrate, or a hair too much dye in it. Chalking it up to user error is the most likely culprit for this happening.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I thought you're referring to the Pastel Extreme but since I saw TCO replying to you, I just want to add my experience with the Mayhems Pastel (regular, not the new Extreme version).
> 
> The longest my system off was one week. I actually don't remember whether I noticed the nano particles fall out of suspension before I turn on my system after a week, but I do know the particles will fall out of suspension after a while. All I know, which I did noticed, is that if I turn off the system overnight, the next day the particles doesn't fall out of suspension, at least that what I see with naked eye of course *(judging by the colour at the top part of the fluid)*. Anyway, after a week, if the particle did fall out of suspension, when the coolant start moving again, the particle will mixing with fluid again. For a couple of weeks, it should be ok I think without draining the loop. I'm pretty sure Mayhems or other expert will correct me if I'm wrong here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THis is the main thing. The Colour at the top of the fluid in the res after a day or (12hours) is strong like something is floating.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Something floating? Do you by any chance take a pic? Now I'm curious. I might call myself The Curious One. Mine nothing was floating though. I didn't use pastel anymore but I have left over pastel in a bottle. I can take a pic if you want.

The Curious One








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> THis is the main thing. The Colour at the top of the fluid in the res after a day or (12hours) is strong like something is floating.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, you let it sit for a while it the top does look quite a bit darker.
> 
> Here is the left-over pastel w/ blue and purple dye that's been sitting around for a few months:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kind of tough to see since it's in plastic jug that the distilled water came in, but still visible.
> 
> Was like that after about a week of sitting and when I went to top off the loop just gave it a good shaking and it was right as rain afterwards. Don't think there is any negative effects, just the dye probably being ever so slightly less dense then the pastels, having slightly too much pastel concentrate, or a hair too much dye in it. Chalking it up to user error is the most likely culprit for this happening.
Click to expand...

The colour at the top of the liquid is lighter than at the bottom with pastel when nano particles fall out of suspension.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> WOW!!!!!... Was three years ago I did these vids, Pretty much the time that Mick (Mayhems) first brought out the Arura fluids. Didn't think anyone would still be looking at the vids I did back that far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Thanks for bringing back happy memories
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Nam...


Glad i gave you that Feeling







,, and thanks for the video


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Glad i gave you that Feeling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,, and thanks for the video


----------



## Chiobe

Is there any difference between pastel and x1 in terms of cooling capacity?


----------



## tipes

Hey Mick,

Been using the pastel white and tubing - would you like me to send samples of both back to you for assessment, it has been about a month now.
Or would you like me to just drain and check tubing staining/cleaning etc, and report back?

Mark


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Is there any difference between pastel and x1 in terms of cooling capacity?


Pastel has a lower thermal capacity than water, it'll have about 2 Celsius higher coolant temps than pure distilled. That really isn't that much, but it's worth noting. X1 and XT-1 will have about the same coolant temps as distilled water as what additives they have don't seem to effect it's thermal capacity by much.

CPU temps comparison in an identical system:


-Z


----------



## bkvamme

Is it OK to use sterilized water (from the pharmacy) to flush the system, or should I try to get hold of distilled water intended to use in car batteries?


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Pastel has a lower thermal capacity than water, it'll have about 2 Celsius higher coolant temps than pure distilled. That really isn't that much, but it's worth noting. X1 and XT-1 will have about the same coolant temps as distilled water as what additives they have don't seem to effect it's thermal capacity by much.
> 
> CPU temps comparison in an identical system:
> 
> 
> -Z


Thanks. I was looking at the X1, but just wanted to check if pastel was better first.


----------



## kizwan

I have RO machine that also removed salt from the water. Anyone know whether it's good idea to use it as a substitute for distilled water?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Is it OK to use sterilized water (from the pharmacy) to flush the system, or should I try to get hold of distilled water intended to use in car batteries?


Sterilized water is basically boiled water right? I think no problem but for final flush, use distilled water.


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Sterilized water is basically boiled water right? I think no problem but for final flush, use distilled water.


Yeah, apparently it's heated in an autoclave at 160C, only question is of they use distilled water as the based, or normal water.

Will get a colleague to pick up 4L of distilled water in any case. Should suffice


----------



## Mayhem

Test bottles for Pastel extreme.




Think black tops would be better, they come with a second seal under the cap that needs to be pulled open (think of the way oil is sealed up)


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Test bottles for Pastel extreme.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think black tops would be better, they come with a second seal under the cap that needs to be pulled open (think of the way oil is sealed up)


LOVE it..


----------



## DarthBaggins

I want some! And some non stain dye to make it blood red


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Not sure Mick lol. But still loving the Blood Red x1 and about to tear down the R.C70 so I'll be putting the green pastel back in the bottle till the next build


Still enjoying my blood Red X1 also. Just wanted to chime in and say it's still looking great and running great. Though my primochill tubing does seem to have a little bit of a yellow hue to it. It's been 8 months running i'll probably tear it down and switch to acryllic once i hit the 12 month mark.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Also when I filled it an everything it looked like this:


----------



## Blackops_2

Here is when i first filled mine and got it up and running.


And the result of the tubing now. Still looks like it did day 1 in the blocks, res, and pump.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Really I do like the super dark red it's become since it holds closer to a blood red


----------



## Blackops_2

Could be a lot less light as well that first pic was taken with plenty ambient light in the kitchen. The second was upstairs where the computer is with the LED cathode up top in the case. I do like how dark it looks though, much more blood like than my first pic. Almost blackish red. Fits the build name hehe.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah I think I had my LED Drop light lighting up the 2nd photo too. . need to add my white cathodes to the case either way


----------



## Mayhem

Just posted a vid on my FB of the new induction sealing to the bottles we will be doing due to some bottles leaking in the past

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10152893538633144

If they leak now ill be surprised


----------



## Barefooter

Nice! Looks much stronger!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just posted a vid on my FB of the new induction sealing to the bottles we will be doing due to some bottles leaking in the past
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10152893538633144
> 
> If they leak now ill be surprised


Needs further testing under a pneumatic hammer IMHO.














-Z


----------



## DNMock

Ok, this is more of a chemistry question and actually related to vehicle coolant, but should be something in the wheel house of some of y'all.

Got a new dump truck. Been instructed to use a specific coolant only (happens to be expensive crap, 35-40 bucks a gallon). Checked the specs sheet on it, and the only difference between it and the cheaper 10 dollar coolants is this:

denatonium benzoate (CAS No) 3734-33-6 30 - 50 ppm

potassium p-tert-butylbenzoate (CAS No) 16518-26-6 < 3%

sodium benzoate (CAS No) 532-32-1 < 4%

rest is the basic ethyline and diethyline glycol (up to 97% on the concentrate) that is found in every basic anti-freeze.

I know the denatonium benzoate is to make it taste so horrible it discourages anything to drink it, and the other two seem to simply be preservatives of some form, is that correct or do those two chemical compounds have specific properties (to act as lubricants or something maybe?)

I have a gut feeling I was just being fed B.S. when told I had to use this very specific type of anti-freeze.

I know this is probably a question more for a truck forum, but I figured if anyone would know if those chemicals had specific properties that would be beneficial to a cooling loop of any kind, Mick would be the guy to ask.


----------



## Mayhem

If you want expensive coolant I'll give you some waterless coolant. you pay for you get some times and quality controlled chemicals are more expensive than there cheaper counter parts. The chems used in your list sound like a high anti corrosive mix and biocide.


----------



## Mayhem

Sad looks like the glass maker doesn't want to do full runs of what ive been asking for as its alot of work (lol).

Some of the prices he quoted originally were quite low enough for us to retail how ever hes now quadrupled the price due to the effort involved which is a damned shame. Ill have to hunt around and get someone who can do the same job or better arround the price point im after.

I will get this off the ground to the level and quality i want.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sad looks like the glass maker doesn't want to do full runs of what ive been asking for as its alot of work (lol).
> 
> Some of the prices he quoted originally were quite low enough for us to retail how ever hes now quadrupled the price due to the effort involved which is a damned shame. Ill have to hunt around and get someone who can do the same job or better arround the price point im after.
> 
> I will get this off the ground to the level and quality i want.


Good luck with that MICK


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you want expensive coolant I'll give you some waterless coolant. you pay for you get some times and quality controlled chemicals are more expensive than there cheaper counter parts. The chems used in your list sound like a high anti corrosive mix and biocide.


That would make sense then. Guess I just immediately think everything a car (or in this case truck) salesman says is a load of crap.

Thanks for saving the day once again, Captain Coolant!


----------



## Blackops_2

I'm debating whether or not to put the 7970 in the AMD rig this summer and when i move to water putting both my 780s in green envy. The question i have is this. I realize i'll have to clean my Nickel block for my 780 that's running Blood Red X1 right now. Will there be considerable staining on the Acrylic? Or on the nickel itself?


----------



## THERIDDLER

Been looking thru here but can't find anything. Anyone have x1 berry blue in uv clear tubing with uv light on and off?


----------



## Mayhem

New tubing photos











New - Non stain, Non fade, Nanofluids so are highly UV active inc the new red, new pink, new orange ect ect




The coolants are all WIP and are being tested, I will soon send some coloured samples out to testers to see what they think. This will be a premium priced product though....


----------



## VSG

Looks good


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks good


+1, go there, Mayhems.









Mark


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> New - Non stain, Non fade, Nanofluids so are highly UV active inc the new red, new pink, new orange ect ect
> 
> The coolants are all WIP and are being tested, I will soon send some coloured samples out to testers to see what they think. This will be a premium priced product though....


When can we expect them available for sale?
And will they perform better or worse then X1?


----------



## Mayhem

testing is on going and they out perform x1 quite well. I will be looking for testers soon.


----------



## gdubc

I'm a few days off from needing to fill a loop


----------



## bigporl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> testing is on going and they out perform x1 quite well. I will be looking for testers soon.


I'll be draining my loop when i swap my 780 to my 980Ti would need some blitz also


----------



## THERIDDLER

In North America where is the best place to order mayhem dyes and distilled water, tubing ect?


----------



## gdubc

Performance-PCs

They have been getting Mayhems stock pretty frequently. You know you're assured fresh product. Some microcenter stores carry some but they used to order from Frozencpu so most likely what they have on their shelves is already at half past shelf life, check those dates on the bottles if you buy there.


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Performance-PCs
> 
> They have been getting Mayhems stock pretty frequently. You know you're assured fresh product. Some microcenter stores carry some but they used to order from Frozencpu so most likely what they have on their shelves is already at half past shelf life, check those dates on the bottles if you buy there.


I'll check it out. Thabk you.


----------



## Chiobe

"Do not use Mayhems Pastel with Primochill tubing or Tygon tubing as Mayhems Pastel seems to react with it changing the colour of the tubing to a greenish colour. This is not the fault of Primochill, Tygon or Mayhems it is just a incompatibility issue."

Does that include Primochill's PETG as well?


----------



## wnipper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Need some advice. I was extremely stupid and ordered anodized red fittings from Primochill. I should've ordered all black. Anyways, would my coolant look better with another coolant? I like the Ice White (pastel), but it's beginning to look a little "blah" to me. Should I add some dye?


Black. All of the black. It would look awesome with those red fittings.

...And, now, I think I'm going to do white and black for my next build. Why thank you.


----------



## MrPT




----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*


Very nice. Build log ?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> "Do not use Mayhems Pastel with Primochill tubing or Tygon tubing as Mayhems Pastel seems to react with it changing the colour of the tubing to a greenish colour. This is not the fault of Primochill, Tygon or Mayhems it is just a incompatibility issue."
> 
> Does that include Primochill's PETG as well?


That warning label is outdated. Mayhems works fine with Primochill Adv LRT, Tygon 1000, and Tygon 2001. Back when Primochill Pro LRT was primochills tubing they weren't compatible. With the Adv LRT they work fine. As for tygon, they have so many different tubing types I could imagine that was just a disclaimer.

Pastel will work fine with PETG.

-Z


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> That warning label is outdated. Mayhems works fine with Primochill Adv LRT, Tygon 1000, and Tygon 2001. Back when Primochill Pro LRT was primochills tubing they weren't compatible. With the Adv LRT they work fine. As for tygon, they have so many different tubing types I could imagine that was just a disclaimer.
> 
> Pastel will work fine with PETG.
> 
> -Z


Guess it was just the shop that I'm using that haven't updated there info in a while.
No need to worry then.


----------



## szeged

can the mayhems x1 blood red concentrate lose its color if it sits for a while? i bought some 2 months ago for a build that finally just got the dye added and the color was a bright red color instead of the usual dark almost black red that i get out of the blood red concentrates.

here is the color i am going for in the reservoir. These are pics from my previous build that used mayhems blood red x1 concentrate.





instead im getting something like


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's how mine started out then turned to a dark red almost black


----------



## wnipper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> can the mayhems x1 blood red concentrate lose its color if it sits for a while? i bought some 2 months ago for a build that finally just got the dye added and the color was a bright red color instead of the usual dark almost black red that i get out of the blood red concentrates.
> 
> here is the color i am going for in the reservoir. These are pics from my previous build that used mayhems blood red x1 concentrate.


All of these ridiculously beautiful hardline builds are making me question my entire existence.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wnipper*
> 
> All of these ridiculously beautiful hardline builds are making me question my entire existence.


I wish I had the skill to do that stuff too, but unless you are pretty skilled at craftsmanship you may end up like I did, with about 20 ft of rigid tubing in the trash and a fried Motherboard. It was then I realized hard tubing wasn't for me and went back to soft.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I wish I had the skill to do that stuff too, but unless you are pretty skilled at craftsmanship you may end up like I did, with about 20 ft of rigid tubing in the trash and a fried Motherboard. It was then I realized hard tubing wasn't for me and went back to soft.


Not sure what fittings you used. But if you happen to try it again specially for fort timers. Go for petg and primochill revolver or ghost fittings. You don't have to be perfect on your cuts and don't have to bezel the edges. I bezel mine but it's not needed. But found it a lot easier than acrylic with crystal link or ek push in fittings


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Not sure what fittings you used. But if you happen to try it again specially for fort timers. Go for petg and primochill revolver or ghost fittings. You don't have to be perfect on your cuts and don't have to bezel the edges. I bezel mine but it's not needed. But found it a lot easier than acrylic with crystal link or ek push in fittings


tried using Monsoon hardline. I think the problem was trying to do a complex loop using the biggest, thickest tubing I could find.


----------



## emsj86

Yea the larger tubing looks great but harder to bend and specially if your doing hard complex bends


----------



## wnipper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yea the larger tubing looks great but harder to bend and specially if your doing hard complex bends


What size do you recommend, then? When the Broadwell-E chips come out Q1'16, I was going to upgrade MB/CPU/RAM, and then rework the kit with hardline and some Mayhem pastel. It seems like the most popular PETG tubing in the US is 1/2" (13mm)


----------



## emsj86

For your first time and this is only my opinon is 1/2 petg tubing. It's cheap easy to work with and works well. Us the primochill fittings for it work very well haven't had a leak yet.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I used Primochill's 3/8 x 1/2 hardline and thier Ghost fittings, made things easy using their fittings as there was no worry of cutting a o-ring


----------



## ozzy1925

i finished doing part1 to my alphacool rads (250ml part1+750ml deionized )and this is after 12 hours :

the water is not very blue here and not too much debris
i also see the flux still there:

do you think they were clean or something wrong?


----------



## DarthBaggins

thought you were supposed to flush the rads w/ pt. 1 for 24hrs


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> thought you were supposed to flush the rads w/ pt. 1 for 24hrs


in the manual it says dont leave inside the rads more than 12 hours.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ah, how were you flushing them? Were you running the pt. 1 through with a pump?


----------



## emsj86

Any tips switching from blue pastel to mayhems x1 blue. Any tricks of the trace to get all the pastel out. Last time I drained I flushed 3 gallons of distilled and still had a slight blue tint. Not sure if that will effect the look of x1 or not. I like the pastel but I want to try jt look of transparent fluids


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Any tips switching from blue pastel to mayhems x1 blue. Any tricks of the trace to get all the pastel out. Last time I drained I flushed 3 gallons of distilled and still had a slight blue tint. Not sure if that will effect the look of x1 or not. I like the pastel but I want to try jt look of transparent fluids


I flushed 2.5Gallons of the Pastel Orange out, And I was crystal by the time I finished. You just have to keep flushing, and or, Take the rads out and boil distilled.

TCO


----------



## wnipper

Quick comparison shot of EK UV Blood Red to Mayhem's X1 Blood Red.

I accidentally ordered the EK UV. Not sure how their standard Blood Red looks, but this is more like "Early Stages of Kidney Failure Pink". If anyone is interested, I'll have some shots of the Mayhem's in both red and clear tubing later tonight.







_Edit: this may actually be standard blood red. Maybe I just got a bad bottle? This is the exact order I placed. The only place it says "UV" on it is in the Ingredients list at the bottom right of the label: "UV water-based dye"._


----------



## akira749

Here's what the standard EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED looks like


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm debating on switching to pastel blood red from the x1, mainly due to it looking this dark (thinking something was still in the rads after their bath) or going distilled with biocide and my dyes

when light passes through it it's still a super dark red


----------



## kizwan

The tube stained probably? That's how mine (blood red dye) look like in the tube & in the reservoir. The colour of the coolant itself doesn't change.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I am about need a red coolant too, That is see through and doesn't stain. Talk to me people.

TCO


----------



## pcrevolution

My first attempt at hardline tubing. I couldn't resist not trying the mayhems pastel green.






But reading some of the post regarding staining, I suppose it's only for soft tubing? Would it stain the blocks or rads?


----------



## wnipper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> But reading some of the post regarding staining, I suppose it's only for soft tubing? Would it stain the blocks or rads?


WHO CARES?! THAT LOOKS INCREDIBLE!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> My first attempt at hardline tubing. I couldn't resist not trying the mayhems pastel green.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But reading some of the post regarding staining, I suppose it's only for soft tubing? Would it stain the blocks or rads?


Great "Attempt"









Fantastic Work.

TCO


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> My first attempt at hardline tubing. I couldn't resist not trying the mayhems pastel green.
> 
> But reading some of the post regarding staining, I suppose it's only for soft tubing? Would it stain the blocks or rads?


Nice job. Pastel will stain a little, but they are doing a new pastel non staining, the green mayhems do is a great colour.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> My first attempt at hardline tubing. I couldn't resist not trying the mayhems pastel green.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But reading some of the post regarding staining, I suppose it's only for soft tubing? Would it stain the blocks or rads?


Nice!









Pastel Blue Berry that I used doesn't stain my loop. I used soft tubing.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Ah, how were you flushing them? Were you running the pt. 1 through with a pump?


yea part1 is basically for radiators or copper heatsinks only because it has phosphoric acid inside after doing part1 you can go to part2 all parts installed and run in the system for 24 hours.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The tube stained probably? That's how mine (blood red dye) look like in the tube & in the reservoir. The colour of the coolant itself doesn't change.


not sure that's possible in my case (acrylic tubing was used in the main tower)


----------



## pcrevolution

Thanks for the kind words guys.









The AsRock Z97E-ITX definitely looks somewhat lonely inside. But things will change when Skylake is out.

So I guess when it's time to drain the loop just running tons of distilled water through it will do? Would adding some 5% acetic acid be appropriate?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Thanks for the kind words guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The AsRock Z97E-ITX definitely looks somewhat lonely inside. But things will change when Skylake is out.
> 
> So I guess when it's time to drain the loop just running tons of distilled water through it will do? Would adding some 5% acetic acid be appropriate?


Why drain it? It looks great!


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Why drain it? It looks great!


I'll most likely have to re-do the tubing from the GPU to the CPU block when I get a new mobo when Skylake is out. Hahaha.


----------



## szeged

youll want to take everything apart and give them a good scrubbing and rinsing off, running clean distilled through it is gonna take forever and a lot of water to get it clean lol.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The tube stained probably? That's how mine (blood red dye) look like in the tube
> 
> 
> 
> not sure that's possible in my case (acrylic tubing was used in the main tower)
Click to expand...

My reservoir which have acrylic window also stained. Then again mine is blood red dye. The colour of the coolant doesn't change though when I checked it.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> youll want to take everything apart and give them a good scrubbing and rinsing off, running clean distilled through it is gonna take forever and a lot of water to get it clean lol.


Well it seems.. All I can say is, it was worth it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know I took apart my Aquacomputers Aquabox prior to running the Mint Green Pastel in the R.C70 (I had previously used deep red dyes and ocean blue dyes)


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Can't wait to get my Mayhems ultra clear tubing and put even more dye in for a stronger color


----------



## DNMock

Non-stain blue worked great in Pastel actually making a blue instead of a baby blue color. Only took one 15ml bottle to turn 5 liters of pastel a nice solid blue color.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> My first attempt at hardline tubing. I couldn't resist not trying the mayhems pastel green.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But reading some of the post regarding staining, I suppose it's only for soft tubing? Would it stain the blocks or rads?


Holy crap that's gorgeous! I need to learn how to sleeve my cables


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Holy crap that's gorgeous! I need to learn how to sleeve my cables


Thanks! It means a lot for a first-timer!

There are lots of guides out there. But I feel one aspect that isn't stressed as much is the need to keep half the wires 1cm shorter than the other so that the cables can curve nicely without the need for a cable comb. Lutro0 does mention it but only briefly.


----------



## psycho84

Looks realy Nice !


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just curious why the use of an mITX board? Still looks amazing either way


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just curious why the use of an mITX board? Still looks amazing either way


Weirdly enough, actually having the mITX board in that case makes it look significantly cleaner than if there were an ATX/mATX in my opinion.


----------



## THERIDDLER

Minimalist and less clutter


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just curious why the use of an mITX board? Still looks amazing either way


I study abroad and I really prefer having a PC over a powerful notebook. So I got the AsRock Z97E-ITX and Cooler Master Elite 120 to bring it overseas with me and it's been with me since. Although I have to say the colour scheme of Asrock's Z97 series is less than ideal for my green build and the blue PCH is just so distracting.

As it's the summer holidays now I've brought just the "innards" of my system back from the UK. With the Elite 120 being left back there.









Definitely looking forward to the challenge of building a hardline loop in mITX set-up. But I just had to give the classic hardline tower builds a go first and I really liked the Fractal Design Define S. For once I can have a front radiator and pump without losing out on 3.5" storage, which is still a major compromise for many mITX cases and I do personally prefer full windows like those in the Obsidian series over the NZXT & Phanteks.

Things will change when Skylake is out.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Thanks! It means a lot for a first-timer!
> 
> There are lots of guides out there. But I feel one aspect that isn't stressed as much is the need to keep half the wires 1cm shorter than the other so that the cables can curve nicely without the need for a cable comb. Lutro0 does mention it but only briefly.


Yeaaaaaa. I'm not a good enough crafter to do that haha. I can't believe that's your first time. Just insane.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Yeaaaaaa. I'm not a good enough crafter to do that haha. I can't believe that's your first time. Just insane.


It'll be fun. I promise........ Might need a box of bandaids for your finger tips when you are done tho...


----------



## fribe226

Hello everybody
4 Months ago, I installed my first acrylic watercooling loop, and I thought that Mayhems Coolants looked quite fantastic,







so after some chatting with Michael (I think that´s his name







)
I settled on Pastel White, Watered down to 1.5L with green and blue Uv dyes. I was really happy with the results ( see photo) but when I installed 4 Cold-light Cathodes into my case 2 Weeks ago, i noticed some kind of residue in my res, which seems to stick to the walls of the res.







Now, I do not know, what that is, how to get rid of it, and what part responsible for this is.







Are the Cathodes responsible or is it the fact, that I watered the concentrate to 1.5L, and that there is a lack of Biocides? I am seriously worried guys


----------



## DarthBaggins

To drain Pastel from a loop and save it for re-use I just drain it through a coffee filter correct?


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fribe226*
> 
> Hello everybody
> 4 Months ago, I installed my first acrylic watercooling loop, and I thought that Mayhems Coolants looked quite fantastic,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so after some chatting with Michael (I think that´s his name
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> I settled on Pastel White, Watered down to 1.5L with green and blue Uv dyes. I was really happy with the results ( see photo) but when I installed 4 Cold-light Cathodes into my case 2 Weeks ago, i noticed some kind of residue in my res, which seems to stick to the walls of the res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I do not know, what that is, how to get rid of it, and what part responsible for this is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are the Cathodes responsible or is it the fact, that I watered the concentrate to 1.5L, and that there is a lack of Biocides? I am seriously worried guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


I dont know what the problem is, but pastel should have Biocides included.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well I decided to go ahead and drain the R.C70 loop that had Pastel Mint Green in it, I drained it through a coffee filter into a large pitcher so i could filter out the very few traces of junk (had 4 small pieces of crud (not bad in my book)


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fribe226*
> 
> Hello everybody
> 4 Months ago, I installed my first acrylic watercooling loop, and I thought that Mayhems Coolants looked quite fantastic,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so after some chatting with Michael (I think that´s his name
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> I settled on Pastel White, Watered down to 1.5L with green and blue Uv dyes. I was really happy with the results ( see photo) but when I installed 4 Cold-light Cathodes into my case 2 Weeks ago, i noticed some kind of residue in my res, which seems to stick to the walls of the res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I do not know, what that is, how to get rid of it, and what part responsible for this is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are the Cathodes responsible or is it the fact, that I watered the concentrate to 1.5L, and that there is a lack of Biocides? I am seriously worried guys


You should follow the instruction when mixing pastel concentrate with distilled water. 250mL pastel + 750mL distilled water to create 1L of coolant.

Pastel already contains biocides. No need to add any additives.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Well I decided to go ahead and drain the R.C70 loop that had Pastel Mint Green in it, I drained it through a coffee filter into a large pitcher so i could filter out the very few traces of junk (had 4 small pieces of crud (not bad in my book)


You can either filtered it while draining or filtered it while refilling.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> I dont know what the problem is, but pastel should have Biocides included.


I can all but guarantee yu what your problem is and was. I bet it's the rads. So e our worse tha. Over but there dirty and outside of mayhem kit to clean them it's hard to fully clean them. And the flux mixes with the pastel and either you get gunk or change of color in the coolant. By any chance did you clean the rads and how. And what brand out they?


----------



## savage1987

Are you guys aware of any clashes with certain cooling components? I mixed up a batch of Mayhems Pastel Sunset Yellow with demineralised water and added it to a well-flushed Raijintek Triton cooler.






It was beautiful for a week, then I went away for two weeks and came back to find the cooler had leaked all through the system. Removing a compression fitting resulted in one of the hoses blowing off under massive pressure. This seems like a corrosion issue / chemical reaction to me - Raijintek are refusing warranty on the grounds that I changed their coolant (they claim pastel is "too thick for the pump" which sounds like a massive cop-out to me) so I just wanted to see if this was something we should maybe be warning people about, or whether I missed something altogether and this was somehow my own fault.





Any info/suggestions/feedback appreciated!


----------



## kizwan

@savage1987, Pastel contain corrosion inhibitor. So it's unlikely corrosion that causing the leak. Did you see any sign of corrosion? Before taking apart the cooler, did you able to identify the leak point?


----------



## savage1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> @savage1987, Pastel contain corrosion inhibitor. So it's unlikely corrosion that causing the leak. Did you see any sign of corrosion? Before taking apart the cooler, did you able to identify the leak point?


Only that it was coming from under the black shroud at the bottom - presumably pressurised out past the O-ring. The pressure in the unit was huge tonight when I released that fitting, so that had to come from somewhere. The coolant has also dramatically separated which is worth noting I think. I can't see how this happened unless something weird happened in there chemically.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savage1987*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> @savage1987, Pastel contain corrosion inhibitor. So it's unlikely corrosion that causing the leak. Did you see any sign of corrosion? Before taking apart the cooler, did you able to identify the leak point?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only that it was coming from under the black shroud at the bottom - presumably pressurised out past the O-ring. The pressure in the unit was huge tonight when I released that fitting, so that had to come from somewhere. *The coolant has also dramatically separated which is worth noting I think.* I can't see how this happened unless something weird happened in there chemically.
Click to expand...

If you leave Pastel that long, the nano particles will fall out of suspension which is normal.

The high pressure you experiencing is I think abnormal. I think it leak because the high pressure alone, nothing else. Did you leave your computer running when you're not at home for two weeks?


----------



## savage1987

No, it was not running. I was away with work and the system was unplugged and covered ready for delivery. Heat, for example, was not a factor in this.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savage1987*
> 
> No, it was not running. I was away with work and the system was unplugged and covered ready for delivery. Heat, for example, was not a factor in this.


I thought it wasn't run. I just want to confirmed. No, I wasn't suspect heat.


----------



## fribe226

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You should follow the instruction when mixing pastel concentrate with distilled water. 250mL pastel + 750mL distilled water to create 1L of coolant.
> 
> Pastel already contains biocides. No need to add any additives.
> You can either filtered it while draining or filtered it while refilling.


Yeah I know, but it was Michael himself who proposed to do so, to make the UV dye stand out more








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I can all but guarantee yu what your problem is and was. I bet it's the rads. So e our worse tha. Over but there dirty and outside of mayhem kit to clean them it's hard to fully clean them. And the flux mixes with the pastel and either you get gunk or change of color in the coolant. By any chance did you clean the rads and how. And what brand out they?


Do you think? I have these rads, res, pump and blocks for a year now, changed the tubing 4 months ago... Wouldn´t it be strange if only now, gunk started coming out of the rads? When I changed the tubing, I flushed them 24hrs with distilled water







I have the Ek Coolstream 280 Xtc and a Hardwarelabs Stealth 240 Xflow


----------



## kizwan

Who is Michael?









The rads fine. It doesn't look like the problem coming from the rads.


----------



## VSG

Michael/Mick is @Mayhem


----------



## ciaran 2110

does the mayhem red stain the waterblock or does it leave a scum in the pipes and rad


----------



## kizwan

Ah! Michael = Mick/Mayhems.


----------



## Blackops_2

So was looking at my nickel 780 Classy block and to me it looks now copper. Is that just the staining or leeching of the Blood red? Or has all the nickel plate suddenly come off? Going to put the 7970 in this weekend anyway but i'm just wondering.


----------



## DeXel

It looks like nickel plating is more or less gone. Or maybe that's just acrylic that got stained. Could you remove the acrylic piece and take a look?

And that's interesting because my 780 Classy block also has some of it nickel plating gone... How long were you running that coolant?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So was looking at my nickel 780 Classy block and to me it looks now copper. Is that just the staining or leeching of the Blood red? Or has all the nickel plate suddenly come off? Going to put the 7970 in this weekend anyway but i'm just wondering.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> It looks like nickel plating is more or less gone. Or maybe that's just acrylic that got stained. Could you remove the acrylic piece and take a look?
> 
> And that's interesting because my 780 Classy block also has some of it nickel plating gone... How long were you running that coolant?


the red dyed water worked its way up under the acrylic and the nickel block in a really thin layer so it looks orange/copper instead of dark red like it should. It happens all the time, even the official ekwb photos of acrylic blocks have it happen some times, the titan x waterblock had it happen with the green filled plexi one. Nothing to worry about, you cant get it to stop without pulling the block apart and maybe putting some silicone grease in there to fill the gap.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> the red dyed water worked its way up under the acrylic and the nickel block in a really thin layer so it looks orange/copper instead of dark red like it should. It happens all the time, even the official ekwb photos of acrylic blocks have it happen some times, the titan x waterblock had it happen with the green filled plexi one. Nothing to worry about, you cant get it to stop without pulling the block apart and maybe putting some silicone grease in there to fill the gap.


Thanks it had me a tad worried not so much about the block but more about the pump/loop if nickel was flaking. That's good to know. I'll be pulling it out and cleaning it regardless when the screws for the 7970 backplate come in. I'll be taking the Classy out for green envy and putting the 7970 in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> It looks like nickel plating is more or less gone. Or maybe that's just acrylic that got stained. Could you remove the acrylic piece and take a look?
> 
> And that's interesting because my 780 Classy block also has some of it nickel plating gone... How long were you running that coolant?


I've been running X1 blood red for almost 9 months now. No buildup, no color change, no issues as far as i can see. I have bubble in the top right hand corner of my CPU block i never got out but meh. Tubing (LRT advanced) has yellowed a tad but no issues at all really. Fluid looks darker than it ever has before (which is good it looks a lot like blood) i think it's because the only light in the room where the PC is is pretty much the cathode, and surrounding lamps. The day i built it i was in the kitchen with the blinds open with lots of ambient light. Could really see the red.


----------



## Mads1

i had this with red pastel, had to take it apart to clean it out.
before

after


----------



## sgtgates

Hey guys,

Been around awhile just haven't used anything but distilled in a while...I'm looking to possible get a dark metallic silver/grey color mayhems, any combinations gonna get me there?







Thanks..


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtgates*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Been around awhile just haven't used anything but distilled in a while...I'm looking to possible get a dark metallic silver/grey color mayhems, any combinations gonna get me there?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks..


Why Not Aurora 2 ?

TCO


----------



## Mayhem

Gray pastel - pastel white + Emerald green + red dye then add aurora Booster to create a mataic gray silver colour


----------



## ozzy1925

i did mayhems part2 run for 12 hours drain the loop flush with tap water but i couldnt empty the whole tap water and there is still 150-200ml in the system if i flush di for 1-2times that will help to remove the tap water ?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i did mayhems part2 run for 12 hours drain the loop flush with tap water but i couldnt empty the whole tap water and there is still 150-200ml in the system *if i flush di for 1-2times that will help to remove the tap water ?*


I've never running tap water in the loop before but running DI or distilled water probably able to take care the leftover of tap water in the loop.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Good news! PPCs is going to be stocking the Mayhems tubing in about a week.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Good news! PPCs is going to be stocking the Mayhems tubing in about a week.


Awesome! I'll be picking some of that up on my next order.


----------



## sgtgates

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Why Not Aurora 2 ?
> 
> TCO


I was under the impression aurora wan't supposed to be used for 24/7 long term rig? Or am I being dumb?


----------



## sgtgates

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Gray pastel - pastel white + Emerald green + red dye then add aurora Booster to create a mataic gray silver colour


Any pics by chance? Love to sse it just dont wana buy it all unless its what I want


----------



## sgtgates

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtgates*
> 
> I was under the impression aurora wan't supposed to be used for 24/7 long term rig? Or am I being dumb?


Also any way to darken the aurora silver to a deep matter gray? Throw in black? can you mix that?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtgates*
> 
> Also any way to darken the aurora silver to a deep matter gray? Throw in black? can you mix that?


To darken it, you need to add more Emerald green + red dye if I remember correctly


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I've never running tap water in the loop before but running DI or distilled water probably able to take care the leftover of tap water in the loop.


but as i watched in mayhems video he flushed with tap water for 30 mins after part2


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> but as i watched in mayhems video he flushed with tap water for 30 mins after part2


Yeah, most likely to get any residuals out to avoid issues, just need to rinse with distilled afterwards and should be fine.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I've never running tap water in the loop before but running DI or distilled water probably able to take care the leftover of tap water in the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> but as i watched in mayhems video he flushed with tap water for 30 mins after part2
Click to expand...

You misunderstand. I'm just saying that I have never put tap water in the loop before, not "I will never put tap water in the loop".

I do think Mayhems way of flushing the loop with tap water after blitz-ing the loop kinda counter-productive. Need to consider the quality of the tap water in other country too. RO or straight distilled water should be preferred though.

If cleaning the parts individually, then I would use tap water, followed with distilled water.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> You misunderstand. I'm just saying that I have never put tap water in the loop before, not "I will never put tap water in the loop".
> 
> I do think Mayhems way of flushing the loop with tap water after blitz-ing the loop kinda counter-productive. Need to consider the quality of the tap water in other country too. RO or straight distilled water should be preferred though.
> 
> If cleaning the parts individually, then I would use tap water, followed with distilled water.


sorry for the misundersstanding it was a very long day yesterday and yes youare right i didnt think about the quality of the tap water in my country i think i will now flush 2-3 times with distilled to take the residue of the tap water as much as i can


----------



## SteezyTN

I used tap water to flush out after part 1. Then once I had my entire loop together, I rad part 2. I drained part 2 the best I could, then filled the loop other distilled. Ran for a few seconds, then drained. I flushed and drained for about 3-4 times. Eventually all (or most) of part 2 will come out.

I do see how you say it's not counter productive, because part 2 is to clean out the impurities and what not. So honestly, I think it's kind of "stupid" to run tap after part 2, since part 2 is used to remove the crap in it.


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I used tap water to flush out after part 1. Then once I had my entire loop together, I rad part 2. I drained part 2 the best I could, then filled the loop other distilled. Ran for a few seconds, then drained. I flushed and drained for about 3-4 times. Eventually all (or most) of part 2 will come out.
> 
> I do see how you say it's not counter productive, because part 2 is to clean out the impurities and what not. So honestly, I think it's kind of "stupid" to run tap after part 2, since part 2 is used to remove the crap in it.


Counter productive how exactly, what effect would running that tap water after part 2 for 10-20min actually do to the radiators? It's not sitting for 1-2months. Tap water isn't the plague. Depending on how dirty the rads are It's better to flush everything out for sure instead of risk otherwise to regret it later and pay the price.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Counter productive how exactly, what effect would running that tap water after part 2 for 10-20min actually do to the radiators? It's not sitting for 1-2months. Tap water isn't the plague. Depending on how dirty the rads are It's better to flush everything out for sure instead of risk otherwise to regret it later and pay the price.


That's why I flushed part 2 out with multiple flushed of distilled. From my understanding, tap water has impurities. So that's like paying the money for part 2, and contaminating it with tap. You wouldn't run tap in a loop (like you would coolant), so why take the risk and add tap?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtgates*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Why Not Aurora 2 ?
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was under the impression aurora wan't supposed to be used for 24/7 long term rig? Or am I being dumb?
Click to expand...

Saying it's not for 24/7 systems is more of a disclaimer than a product guideline. The issue is people would just throw it into any loop and expect it to work. Aurora is a nanofluid, so the nanoparticles that create the effect can drop out of suspension. The Aurora will last about a year before the coolant itself begins to break down, but the aurora particles can stay in suspension from anywhere from 1 minute to years depending on how well your system works with Aurora. Theoretically it can be used for about a year, how long the aurora will actually keep it's effect..... that depends on how well your system works with aurora. If you still want to use aurora post your parts list (Make and model), and I'll get back to you when time permits.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I've never running tap water in the loop before but running DI or distilled water probably able to take care the leftover of tap water in the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> but as i watched in mayhems video he flushed with tap water for 30 mins after part2
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You misunderstand. I'm just saying that I have never put tap water in the loop before, not "I will never put tap water in the loop".
> 
> I do think Mayhems way of flushing the loop with tap water after blitz-ing the loop kinda counter-productive. Need to consider the quality of the tap water in other country too. RO or straight distilled water should be preferred though.
> 
> If cleaning the parts individually, then I would use tap water, followed with distilled water.
Click to expand...

Tap water often has calcite, chlorine, copper, cupric carbonate, and possible some other nasties in it. Calcite is the stuff in caves to form stalagmites/stalactites, so as you can imagine that stuff will scale in your components. Chlorine obviously doesn't work well with metals for obvious reasons, but depending on your location should be in such trace amounts it won't make any impact what-so-ever. Copper and cupric carbonate won't effect anything at all, they're probably already in your liquid cooling loop anyways. Whether you should use tap water is kind of a judgement call. Do you have good purity local tap water? If so then sure, flush with that just be sure to do a final rinse with some distilled. Is your local tap quality questionable? Ehhhh, wouldn't trust it personally.

So yeah, tap CAN be okay to use, but do your homework before you trust your hardware to it.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I used tap water to flush out after part 1. Then once I had my entire loop together, I rad part 2. I drained part 2 the best I could, then filled the loop other distilled. Ran for a few seconds, then drained. I flushed and drained for about 3-4 times. Eventually all (or most) of part 2 will come out.
> 
> I do see how you say it's not counter productive, because part 2 is to clean out the impurities and what not. So honestly, I think it's kind of "stupid" to run tap after part 2, since part 2 is used to remove the crap in it.


Using water to flush rads? Are you insane! There's water restrictions in place mate.









Ah, Cali luxuries.

-Z


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's why I flushed part 2 out with multiple flushed of distilled. From my understanding, tap water has impurities. So that's like paying the money for part 2, and contaminating it with tap. You wouldn't run tap in a loop (like you would coolant), so why take the risk and add tap?


Cleaning parts and actively cooling parts are two different spectrums though. People use ketchup to clean parts, but I'm sure you wouldn't run ketchup as coolant would you?









I know there is many impurities and water is different everywhere. Part 2 is designed to clean way more than the stuff we could mention out of either our kitchen sink water, you could flush the same impurities away with distilled water after. The short time shouldn't have a negative effect or undo any of the cleaning done prior.

Have to remember Mayhems engineers and tests the products. He's doing it off knowledge and experience so he wouldn't accidentally flush with tap water on video







.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I used tap water to flush out after part 1. Then once I had my entire loop together, I rad part 2. I drained part 2 the best I could, then filled the loop other distilled. Ran for a few seconds, then drained. I flushed and drained for about 3-4 times. Eventually all (or most) of part 2 will come out.
> 
> I do see how you say it's not counter productive, because part 2 is to clean out the impurities and what not. So honestly, I think it's kind of "stupid" to run tap after part 2, since part 2 is used to remove the crap in it.
> 
> 
> 
> Counter productive how exactly, what effect would running that tap water after part 2 for 10-20min actually do to the radiators? It's not sitting for 1-2months. Tap water isn't the plague. *Depending on how dirty the rads are It's better to flush everything out for sure instead of risk otherwise to regret it later and pay the price.*
Click to expand...

You misunderstand there. No one is telling you to not flush the loop after part 2. Using distilled water also can clean/flush everything in the loop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I've never running tap water in the loop before but running DI or distilled water probably able to take care the leftover of tap water in the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> but as i watched in mayhems video he flushed with tap water for 30 mins after part2
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You misunderstand. I'm just saying that I have never put tap water in the loop before, not "I will never put tap water in the loop".
> 
> I do think Mayhems way of flushing the loop with tap water after blitz-ing the loop kinda counter-productive. Need to consider the quality of the tap water in other country too. RO or straight distilled water should be preferred though.
> 
> If cleaning the parts individually, then I would use tap water, followed with distilled water.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tap water often has calcite, chlorine, copper, cupric carbonate, and possible some other nasties in it. Calcite is the stuff in caves to form stalagmites/stalactites, so as you can imagine that stuff will scale in your components. Chlorine obviously doesn't work well with metals for obvious reasons, but depending on your location should be in such trace amounts it won't make any impact what-so-ever. Copper and cupric carbonate won't effect anything at all, they're probably already in your liquid cooling loop anyways. Whether you should use tap water is kind of a judgement call. Do you have good purity local tap water? If so then sure, flush with that just be sure to do a final rinse with some distilled. Is your local tap quality questionable? Ehhhh, wouldn't trust it personally.
> 
> So yeah, tap CAN be okay to use, but do your homework before you trust your hardware to it.
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

I would not trust my tap water running in the loop (for flushing). If it's a must, sure but must be filtered first. I have water purification machine in my home. If flushing components individually, I did use tap water, then hot water & finally distilled water. If I were to use blitz, I would use distilled after that to flush everything. Probably I'm too paranoid but that because I know there's a lot of tiny dirt in the tap water. Basically for me, when in doubt, go straight distilled.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sgtgates*
> 
> I was under the impression aurora wan't supposed to be used for 24/7 long term rig? Or am I being dumb?


Aurora 1 was the culprit ( I believe) Aurora 2 is good like Z Said for a year (Permitting the loop is good to go with it)

TCO


----------



## MrPT

Red A2


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Red A2


That's wicked

TCO


----------



## sgtgates

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> To darken it, you need to add more Emerald green + red dye if I remember correctly


So is the aurora ok overtime usage?


----------



## DarthBaggins

It's mainly a showcase coolant and you have to gear your loop around it with compatible bends and components


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> *You misunderstand there. No one is telling you to not flush the loop after part 2. Using distilled water also can clean/flush everything in the loop.*
> I would not trust my tap water running in the loop (for flushing). If it's a must, sure but must be filtered first. I have water purification machine in my home. If flushing components individually, I did use tap water, then hot water & finally distilled water. If I were to use blitz, I would use distilled after that to flush everything. Probably I'm too paranoid but that because I know there's a lot of tiny dirt in the tap water. Basically for me, when in doubt, go straight distilled.


Negative, if you read my post we are talking about flushing with tap water. My post is also quoted to someone talking about flushing with tap water.
It's quite obvious that you need to flush it out, not sure where you got confused


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> *You misunderstand there. No one is telling you to not flush the loop after part 2. Using distilled water also can clean/flush everything in the loop.*
> I would not trust my tap water running in the loop (for flushing). If it's a must, sure but must be filtered first. I have water purification machine in my home. If flushing components individually, I did use tap water, then hot water & finally distilled water. If I were to use blitz, I would use distilled after that to flush everything. Probably I'm too paranoid but that because I know there's a lot of tiny dirt in the tap water. Basically for me, when in doubt, go straight distilled.
> 
> 
> 
> Negative, if you read my post we are talking about flushing with tap water. My post is also quoted to someone talking about flushing with tap water.
> It's quite obvious that you need to flush it out, not sure where you got confused
Click to expand...

No, I'm from the beginning talking about flushing straight with distilled water instead of tap water & followed with distilled water. If you look to SteezyTN post that you quoted (first paragraph) also talking about using distilled water after part 2.


----------



## gdubc

Never mind first, what's the guys name on third?


----------



## ALT F4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> No, I'm from the beginning talking about flushing straight with distilled water instead of tap water & followed with distilled water. If you look to SteezyTN post that you quoted (first paragraph) also talking about using distilled water after part 2.


I think you are just misunderstanding my posts







they are pretty simple. Last time you confused my post as if I'm stating you don't need to clean after part 2
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> Counter productive how exactly, what effect would running that tap water after part 2 for 10-20min actually do to the radiators? It's not sitting for 1-2months. Tap water isn't the plague. *Depending on how dirty the rads are It's better to flush everything out for sure instead of risk otherwise to regret it later and pay the price*.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> *You misunderstand there. No one is telling you to not flush the loop after part 2. Using distilled water also can clean/flush everything in the loop*.


I responded to SteezyTN because he thought running tap water would be counter productive to part 2. You also did here .

Again, running distilled after part 2 is also obvious as it's part of the instructions, I'm definitely not suggesting anyone skip this step








The point is most people don't have enough distilled water to flush for 20minutes and it's okay to run tap water then a final rinse with distilled. This is why I posted depending how dirty the rads are, if you can visually see that a few gallons of distilled will flush everything out that's great. If stuff keeps coming out even after those few gallons it's safer to give it a 20 minute flush in the sink instead of having to clean it again later.


----------



## ALT F4

double post


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALT F4*
> 
> The point is most people don't have enough distilled water to flush for 20minutes


Well you didn't state this point before. Your post maybe pretty simple but too simple to deliver the actual message. Hence caused the misunderstanding.

Well, let's agree to disagree. For me, I wouldn't flush with tap water after part 2. I'll use distilled. I'm aware in some parts of the world distilled not cheap but our watercooling parts also not cheap. Interesting that the instruction at mayhems website also use DI/distilled water for all steps. I didn't check the video though.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Woot, got my Mayhems tubing from the UK pretty quickly. Surprised it went through customs as it was packaged like 3 kilos of heroin.


----------



## SteezyTN

Which brand of soft tubing is recommended for the pastel colors, preferably Ice white? I just ordered a CL SMA8, and I'm going to order the radiators now. I will be using the soft tubing in the bottom compartment and all PeTG in the top.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Which brand of soft tubing is recommended for the pastel colors, preferably Ice white? I just ordered a CL SMA8, and I'm going to order the radiators now. I will be using the soft tubing in the bottom compartment and all PeTG in the top.


I always use Primochill Advanced LRT Crystal Clear (10Ft) For 25$ on amazon.

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I always use Primochill Advanced LRT Crystal Clear (10Ft) For 25$ on amazon.
> 
> TCO


That's what I was thinking. But 10ft is a lot. Do you know if they sell it in lower lengths, besides the 1 foot?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's what I was thinking. But 10ft is a lot. Do you know if they sell it in lower lengths, besides the 1 foot?


10FT is a perfect amount. It will be fine and have extra in case you don't cut the right lenght at first.

TCO


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Which brand of soft tubing is recommended for the pastel colors, preferably Ice white? I just ordered a CL SMA8, and I'm going to order the radiators now. I will be using the soft tubing in the bottom compartment and all PeTG in the top.


Not sure if they have your size but you should try out Mayhems tubing: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/tubing/flexible-tubing/ I got ~16.4 feet (5m) for around $26.50 shipped to Boston. Going to be replacing my tubing to it over the weekend. 3m (~10 feet) should be even cheaper. Also, PPCs should have their tubing in stock soon.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Not sure if they have your size but you should try out Mayhems tubing: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/tubing/flexible-tubing/ I got ~16.4 feet (5m) for around $26.50 shipped to Boston. Going to be replacing my tubing to it over the weekend. 3m (~10 feet) should be even cheaper. Also, PPCs should have their tubing in stock soon.


I'll be using 7/16 x 5/8 because I already have the fittings for them


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'll be using 7/16 x 5/8 because I already have the fittings for them


Actual fittings or barbs?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Actual fittings or barbs?


I have the XSPC compression. They came with my kit I ordered back in October.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I have the XSPC compression. They came with my kit I ordered back in October.


Ahh I had those. Replaced them all with Bitspower barbs and would never go back.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Ahh I had those. Replaced them all with Bitspower barbs and would never go back.


They will be in the bottom compartment, so I'm not worried


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> They will be in the bottom compartment, so I'm not worried


Even better of a reason to get barbs and Koolance hose clamps







Ugly but so fast to add/remove tubing.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Even better of a reason to get barbs and Koolance hose clamps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ugly but so fast to add/remove tubing.


Why pay extra when I already have them?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Why pay extra when I already have them?


Convenience really. About $3 each so it's not wicked expensive but the hose clamps are about a buck each. The barbs do come with two plastic reusable alligator style ones though. Idk, I just found that screwing in the compression fittings was a pita vs using some pliers to enlarge the clamp and sliding it over the barb (5 seconds). And then I'd end up having the tube get twisted sometimes from the rotation of screwing in the fitting's top part. Just a hassle, would never go back to fittings... no idea how they ever became so popular.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hose clamps. . pfft screw that lol I don't use them but I'm mainly using compressions now in JAC


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Ok Mayhem folks, I have a couple questions.

1st, I'm about to expand my loop and I'm ready for new dye/coolant or something new in general. My issue is, I have red stuff.
My motherboard is red/black, I have red fans, and red cold cathodes.

The thing is, I'm a little bored with the red.

Here is my idea:
My original idea was to get the aurora 2 silver and drop some of the clear UV dye in it. I would put my red cathodes in the back and drop 2 new UV lights in the front.
I WAS, "was" being the key word here, reverse my red cathodes so that when they would sound activate, they would go off instead of on and the new UV lights would come on.
But.....I don't know how to reverse the lighting effects of that.
In fact, I'm not even sure if it's possible to do that with the Logysis cathodes.

So, now I'm back to square one.
I know I like the UV effects, I like the aurora coolant/dye (i am most definatly going with Mayhem whatever my color direction would be)
BUT, I don't want to replace my red fans.

So I'm here......what color combo, UV effects, dye, coolant, etc. would really make the system pop? Since you guys have more experience, I'm asking you guys.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Hose clamps. . pfft screw that lol I don't use them but I'm mainly using compressions now in JAC


I swear by these things, so easy to use:


----------



## DarthBaggins

I only will use hose clamps on fittings w/ a single barb, the ones I used prior to compressions had a double barb on them and never leaked when I didn't use clamps. But I'm using Bitspower compressions in the pedestal of JAC w/ no issues (twisting etc)


----------



## SteezyTN

So I have about 2 liters of ice white in my system (concentrate plus Distilled). It about two months I'll be filling an entire loop in my SMA8, which will need about 1-2 more liters. Can I add more bottles of the concentrate plus Distilled to the coolant I'm using now?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> I swear by these things, so easy to use:


You can get those super cheap at autozone:

http://www.autozone.com/gaskets-and-miscellaneous-fasteners/hose-clamp-universal-type/help-8-pcs-corbin-style-quick-connect-hose-clamp-assortment/730002_0_0/

50 cents a piece and they work great. Good enough to use on a vehicle, good enough to work on a PC.


----------



## DarthBaggins

In the auto industry, I hate those clamps always a pain to deal with lol. But in a PC I can see them being a bit easier to deal with


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> You can get those super cheap at autozone:
> 
> http://www.autozone.com/gaskets-and-miscellaneous-fasteners/hose-clamp-universal-type/help-8-pcs-corbin-style-quick-connect-hose-clamp-assortment/730002_0_0/
> 
> 50 cents a piece and they work great. Good enough to use on a vehicle, good enough to work on a PC.


Does that URL actually work? I get:

Access Denied
You don't have permission to access "http://www.autozone.com/gaskets-and-miscellaneous-fasteners/hose-clamp-universal-type/help-8-pcs-corbin-style-quick-connect-hose-clamp-assortment/730002_0_0/" on this server.

Reference #18.ed71aad1.1435267343.18a9a03

Edit: Nevermind. Had to add a quick route to bypass VPN so I could access their site.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> You can get those super cheap at autozone:
> 
> http://www.autozone.com/gaskets-and-miscellaneous-fasteners/hose-clamp-universal-type/help-8-pcs-corbin-style-quick-connect-hose-clamp-assortment/730002_0_0/
> 
> 50 cents a piece and they work great. Good enough to use on a vehicle, good enough to work on a PC.


Just be carefull with them.
A version I used, caused leaks, since they rotated the fittings when I tightened them down. Or to be more precize, they moved the fittings when I rotated the hose clamp, so I could secure them properly.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Just be carefull with them.
> A version I used, caused leaks, since they rotated the fittings when I tightened them down. Or to be more precize, they moved the fittings when I rotated the hose clamp, so I could secure them properly.


I use the compression fittings in my PC anyway (they look nicer I think), but those clamps are what I use on the tractors and trucks at work.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Even better of a reason to get barbs and Koolance hose clamps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ugly but so fast to add/remove tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> Why pay extra when I already have them?
Click to expand...

I also use XSPC compression fittings. No problem here. Using with Primochill Advanced LRT 7/16 x 5/8 tube too.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I also use XSPC compression fittings. No problem here. Using with Primochill Advanced LRT 7/16 x 5/8 tube too.


I never had any real issues with them either, they were just a pain in the ass to use since they're short


----------



## SimonOcean

Hi all,

I had a quick search on the following questions, but I am not 100% sure regarding the answers. Hopefully one of the guys at Mayhems can inform me about their product and clarify:

I've found a retailer selling "Mayhems Ice Dragon Nano Fluid" alongside a description that it is making claims about offering lower fluid temperatures compared to DI water. I can't find this product, or at least anything with the same labelling on Mayhems website. Is it an old product being sold?

I did find Pastel Ice White fluid on Mayhems website. Is this the same stuff, different bottle?

1 final question: if you use either of these products and you use Mayhems Ultra Clear tubing, over a 2 year operating cycle will it stain nickel plated block fittings or tubing?

Thanks for taking the time to look at these questions for me. - Simon.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's what I was thinking. But 10ft is a lot. Do you know if they sell it in lower lengths, besides the 1 foot?


Wait for the Mayhem soft tubing. I know Performance is getting it in a week or two according to one of their reps.

Edit: Responded before I saw you already had the fittings from XSPC. Advanced LRT is good soft tubing.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Wait for the Mayhem soft tubing. I know Performance is getting it in a week or two according to one of their reps.
> 
> Edit: Responded before I saw you already had the fittings from XSPC. Advanced LRT is good soft tubing.


Hopefully PrimoFlex will take a big hit when Mayhems start making more soft tubing sizes (7/16" and 3/8 1/2) and send them to PPCs. $2.50 a foot is just too much for tubing.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimonOcean*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I had a quick search on the following questions, but I am not 100% sure regarding the answers. Hopefully one of the guys at Mayhems can inform me about their product and clarify:
> 
> I've found a retailer selling "Mayhems Ice Dragon Nano Fluid" alongside a description that it is making claims about offering lower fluid temperatures compared to DI water. I can't find this product, or at least anything with the same labelling on Mayhems website. Is it an old product being sold?
> 
> I did fine Pastel Ice White fluid on Mayhems website. Is this the same stuff, different bottle?
> 
> 1 final question: if you use either of these products and you use Mayhems Ultra Clear tubing, over a 2 year operating cycle will it stain nickel plated block fittings or tubing?
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to look at these questions for me. - Simon.


IDC (Ice Dragon Cooling) is not a Mayhems product it is Distributed (packed and distro) by Mayhems in the EU region on behalf of Ice Dragon Cooling. Whom ever has wrote Mayhems Ice dragon coolant has got a little mixed up. We have been distro IDC now for over 5 years .... and it does what it says on the tin.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> IDC (Ice Dragon Cooling) is not a Mayhems product it is Distributed (packed and distro) by Mayhems in the EU region on behalf of Ice Dragon Cooling. Whom ever has wrote Mayhems Ice dragon coolant has got a little mixed up. We have been distro IDC now for over 5 years .... and it does what it says on the tin.


Its on ocuk as mayhems ice dragon nano cooling


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I also use XSPC compression fittings. No problem here. Using with Primochill Advanced LRT 7/16 x 5/8 tube too.


I always think I'm the only 7/16 x 5/8 tube user on this forum, but then I see the other elusive users as well







It makes me sad when I see WC part sales, but I can't buy the fittings because they're usually 1/2 x 3/4 or 1/4 x 1/2. We should have a 7/16 x 5/8 user club









And I've got XSPC + Monsoon fittings with my Primochill fittings, no problem here either!


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> Ok Mayhem folks, I have a couple questions.
> 
> 1st, I'm about to expand my loop and I'm ready for new dye/coolant or something new in general. My issue is, I have red stuff.
> My motherboard is red/black, I have red fans, and red cold cathodes.
> 
> The thing is, I'm a little bored with the red.
> 
> Here is my idea:
> My original idea was to get the aurora 2 silver and drop some of the clear UV dye in it. I would put my red cathodes in the back and drop 2 new UV lights in the front.
> I WAS, "was" being the key word here, reverse my red cathodes so that when they would sound activate, they would go off instead of on and the new UV lights would come on.
> But.....I don't know how to reverse the lighting effects of that.
> In fact, I'm not even sure if it's possible to do that with the Logysis cathodes.
> 
> So, now I'm back to square one.
> I know I like the UV effects, I like the aurora coolant/dye (i am most definatly going with Mayhem whatever my color direction would be)
> BUT, I don't want to replace my red fans.
> 
> So I'm here......what color combo, UV effects, dye, coolant, etc. would really make the system pop? Since you guys have more experience, I'm asking you guys.


Anyone?


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> Anyone?


Throw up some pictures of your system. Might help out


----------



## MrPT

One more shot of Aurora 2


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> One more shot of Aurora 2
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


+ Rep

TCO


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Wow, that is seriously awesome...


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> I always think I'm the only 7/16 x 5/8 tube user on this forum, but then I see the other elusive users as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It makes me sad when I see WC part sales, but I can't buy the fittings because they're usually 1/2 x 3/4 or 1/4 x 1/2. We should have a 7/16 x 5/8 user club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I've got XSPC + Monsoon fittings with my Primochill fittings, no problem here either!


Aye.... 7/16" x 5/8" user here as well







... Have been that size all my watercooling days right from the start (which is about 7 or 8 years now) & will definitely be getting some of Micks as soon as they have it in that size in the shop







..

Nam...


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Aye.... 7/16" x 5/8" user here as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Have been that size all my watercooling days right from the start (which is about 7 or 8 years now) & will definitely be getting some of Micks as soon as they have it in that size in the shop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> Nam...


Same! I'm moving in two months so I'll have to empty out my loop (and my loop is about a year old now so I need to clean and get new tubing anyways). Hopefully they'll get it in by then since I am really thinking about trying out a pastel!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Wait for the Mayhem soft tubing. I know Performance is getting it in a week or two according to one of their reps.
> 
> Edit: Responded before I saw you already had the fittings from XSPC. Advanced LRT is good soft tubing.


When I was looking at the mayhems website for the flexible tubing, I didn't see 7/16 x 5/8, which is what my fittings are. So I may have to go primochill


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Throw up some pictures of your system. Might help out




Thinking about ditching all of the red, going with Aurora 2, and adding UV clear blue. I'll also be adding a different res.


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking about ditching all of the red, going with Aurora 2, and adding UV clear blue. I'll also be adding a different res.


Got any shots without the lights on? It's really hard to see with that glare


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Got any shots without the lights on? It's really hard to see with that glare


Yup


----------



## DarthBaggins

lmao


----------



## USMC Modder

That's some funny **** right there.


----------



## Mayhem

We are working on diffrent sizes of tubing how ever we have a fairly high rejection rate and the company we are working with are having to redo the tubing to our standards.


----------



## SimonOcean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> IDC (Ice Dragon Cooling) is not a Mayhems product it is Distributed (packed and distro) by Mayhems in the EU region on behalf of Ice Dragon Cooling. Whom ever has wrote Mayhems Ice dragon coolant has got a little mixed up. We have been distro IDC now for over 5 years .... and it does what it says on the tin.


Ahh, okay. Thank you.


----------



## wnipper

Mayhem's blood red.


----------



## SteezyTN

Is it okay to add pastel coolant to pre-existing pastel coolant?

About a month and a half ago, I added two bottles of Pastel Ice white concentrate to my loop. However, I'm upgrading to a bigger case (CL SMA8) and I'm getting 2 more rads (480 and 560) and two large reservoirs. By the time I actually start filling, the cooler will be about 4-5 months old. I don't want to throw out $60 in coolant. I would like to just add more to it and use it all


----------



## kizwan

Should be ok. 4 to 5 months still consider new. Just make sure the water/concentrate ratio follow the correct ratio set by Mayhems.


----------



## wnipper

So here's something interesting. Mayhem's blood red yesterday afternoon:


And this morning:


More or less the same ambient light. Thoughts?


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wnipper*
> 
> So here's something interesting. Mayhem's blood red yesterday afternoon:
> 
> And this morning:
> 
> 
> More or less the same ambient light. Thoughts?


Looks more blood red now?


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wnipper*
> 
> So here's something interesting. Mayhem's blood red yesterday afternoon:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this morning:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More or less the same ambient light. Thoughts?


I know a lot of people said that the blood red did darken after it was in their loops.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yup mine darkened a bit, but to me sticks closer to being a blood red.

At install:


Now:


Personally, as I've said before, I like the looks of it due to its closer to a real dark blood red as I really wanted.


----------



## wnipper

It's not that I mind it. I liked the look of the lighter red, and I still like the look of this one--it's like effing Tru Blood at this point. I'm just curious as to why? And why it would happen so quickly? I don't even have the PC running; I've been doing a second 12-hour stress test before hooking up the electrons.


----------



## DarthBaggins

How'd you flush your components? Could've picked something up (mine probably picked something up that didn't come out in my final flushings)


----------



## wnipper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> How'd you flush your components? Could've picked something up (mine probably picked something up that didn't come out in my final flushings)


*shrug* Maybe. I was pretty anal about it, though. 24 hours with the primochill SysPrep that came with my tubing (PerformancePCs was out of the Mayhems Blitz), then 2 hours with pure distilled, then the rest of the gallon of that distilled to finish the flush.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Is it okay to add pastel coolant to pre-existing pastel coolant?
> 
> About a month and a half ago, I added two bottles of Pastel Ice white concentrate to my loop. However, I'm upgrading to a bigger case (CL SMA8) and I'm getting 2 more rads (480 and 560) and two large reservoirs. By the time I actually start filling, the cooler will be about 4-5 months old. I don't want to throw out $60 in coolant. I would like to just add more to it and use it all


While I think it would work and seeing how things been. I wouldn't cut a few corners even if they do happen to work out. The last thing you need is to shovel out all this money to either have an issue and than be smacking your head for not spending the little extra. Budgeting sucks but just my opinion when building in a case like you just bought don't compromise. You already went big follow through all the way so there is no "ragrets" not even one.


----------



## THERIDDLER

I looked through the photo gallery and maybe i passed it up, but i dont see any non uv purple dyes. Is it a thing or am I searching for nothing.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> I looked through the photo gallery and maybe i passed it up, but i dont see any non uv purple dyes. Is it a thing or am I searching for nothing.


Here you go -> none UV active http://mayhems.co.uk/store/purple-10ml.html


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Hey all, my loop has been using pastel white for 1,5 years now.

My 980ti arrives tomorrow and with it new blocks, so I need to clean my rads, I bought new tubing.

What's the best way to rinse these (I don't have Mayhems Blitz), just use hot tap water and flush few times? or add vinegar?


----------



## Mayhem

do not use vinegar on its own . Just flush with water if they have allready been used with pastel and you should be fine.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I used white vinegar diluted with Distilled (on rads only), then flushed with Distilled, (connected the rest of the loop) then flushed with distilled and 4 table spoons of baking soda, then distilled again


----------



## v1ral

Hey guys I have a question.
Are there any H220X users in this thread that use the pastel stuff in there loop.
What's the prefered soft tubing with as little leaching as possible.
It's been some time since I've been lurking this thread and I think things have changed since people experiment with different tubing and stuff.....


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Hey guys I have a question.
> Are there any H220X users in this thread that use the pastel stuff in there loop.
> What's the prefered soft tubing with as little leaching as possible.
> It's been some time since I've been lurking this thread and I think things have changed since people experiment with different tubing and stuff.....


Taken from an earlier conversation:
Quote:


> The only plasticizers free "flex" tubing on the market is Tygon 2001 Lab tubing. I emphasize the quotes around the word flex. From my experience, which is admittedly very limited as I've only ever used it in one stretch on a drain line, it is very stiff, very poor bend radius, and kinks easily. Once it kinks it also leaves visible marks on the tubing. It's also fairly expensive, ranging from $5-$7 per foot
> 
> Plasticizers free flex tubing is somewhat of an oxymoron. Plasticizers in of themselves are what make tubing flexible. When most tubing says "Plasticizers free" what it really means is diethylhexyl phthalate plasticizers free tubing, or DEHP free for short. Diethylhexyl phthalate is one of the most inexpensive, and as a result one of the most common, forms of plasticizers used in flex tubing. Since DEHP is the plasticizers that are known to cause leaching, you want to stick to DEHP plasticizers tubing.
> 
> Buying a tubing because they "look clear" is a really silly thing to do. Most all tubing is going to look clear out of the box, but some have the DEHP plasticizers in them which will leech out of the tubing over time. When this happens you end up with a white powder looking coating on the tubing. There is also the matter of dye "staining". People say "dyes stain" all the time, but in reality only a couple of dye colours are known to readily have issues with staining. What happens when a dye "stains" flex tubing is it's actually absorbing coloured coolant. Tubing will absorb coolant, some tubing more than others, and if the coolant is red, blue, orange, purple, or yellow guess what colour the tubing is absorbing? So to digress on this matter, of course you want tubing to look clear, but just because it looks clear don't assume it will stay clear.
> 
> Now down to the matter at hand. Your tubing, if you want it to last more than a month or two, needs to be DEHP plasticizers free. There are three tubings that I know of that possess this quality. Tygon 1000, Primochill Advanced LRT, and Mayhems Ultraclear Tubing.


TL;DR

Mayhems Flex Tubing, Primochill Adv LRT, Tygon 1000

-Z


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Is tygon norprene plasticizer free? I hardly ever see it recommended.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Is tygon norprene plasticizer free? I hardly ever see it recommended.


Might want to read again:
Quote:


> The only plasticizers free "flex" tubing on the market is Tygon 2001 Lab tubing. I emphasize the quotes around the word flex. From my experience, which is admittedly very limited as I've only ever used it in one stretch on a drain line, it is very stiff, very poor bend radius, and kinks easily. Once it kinks it also leaves visible marks on the tubing. It's also fairly expensive, ranging from $5-$7 per foot


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Is tygon norprene plasticizer free? I hardly ever see it recommended.


Quote:


> The specific chemical identity of the ingredients
> is considered a trade secret.


Doesn't mention anything on what plasticizers it uses, but it is a neoprene knock off, and IIRC DuPont uses Ester Phthalate plasticizers in neoprene so... I'd imagine it uses phthalate plasticizers all the same.

-Z


----------



## ALT F4

How long can I get by with 1/3 Mayhems Pastel pre-mix and 2liters distilled water?


----------



## MrPT




----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I am in Love!

TCO


----------



## tommi6o

Can I make this new green color with the current pastels and dyes?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wnipper*
> 
> *shrug* Maybe. I was pretty anal about it, though. 24 hours with the primochill SysPrep that came with my tubing (PerformancePCs was out of the Mayhems Blitz), then 2 hours with pure distilled, then the rest of the gallon of that distilled to finish the flush.


that's odd, I used that (SysPrep) in the past w/ my R.C70 build that I ran Mint Green Pastel in and never had issues. .


----------



## tommi6o

Where can I get this pastel green? I can only find pastel mint green.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That looks like the Mint to me, but not 100% on that

Here's the Mint I used:


----------



## tommi6o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That looks like the Mint to me, but not 100% on that
> 
> Here's the Mint I used:


Mayhems pastel mint green

Mayhems pastel green


----------



## DarthBaggins

Have you looked on Mayhems' site store?


----------



## tommi6o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Have you looked on Mayhems' site store?


I only saw pastel mint green on their site.


----------



## Mayhem

Its all the same were dropping some naming on them. Have done for a long time.


----------



## wnipper

How long can we run the Aurora 2 before having to do a full flush and swap? And if I decide to go to the pastel red instead, would I use this dye to darken it up a little bit?

The blood red is a TINY bit darker than I actually wanted it. I may or may not swap it out, but I'm curious about my options if I do.


----------



## Mayhem

Aurora can run upto 1 year now

Glass tube prices Approx - https://mayhems.co.uk/store/tubing/hard-tube/glass-tubing/

This is all hand made stuff and we will only recommend people who understand what they are doing use it. It's glass not plastic







. We will also stock cutting disks as well. (if we go full retail as we still do not know yet). We may not stock the 90 and 45 degree versions as they will be very hard to ship and may incur more fee's for packaging (custom boxes)


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Aurora can run upto 1 year now
> 
> Glass tube prices Approx - https://mayhems.co.uk/store/tubing/hard-tube/glass-tubing/
> 
> This is all hand made stuff and we will only recommend people who understand what they are doing use it. It's glass not plastic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . We will also stock cutting disks as well. (if we go full retail as we still do not know yet). We may not stock the 90 and 45 degree versions as they will be very hard to ship and may incur more fee's for packaging (custom boxes)


So basicly, you have to use the fittings to get bends?


----------



## tommi6o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its all the same were dropping some naming on them. Have done for a long time.


What dyes should I add to the pastel mint green to make it look more like the pastel extreme green?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Aurora can run upto 1 year now
> 
> Glass tube prices Approx - https://mayhems.co.uk/store/tubing/hard-tube/glass-tubing/
> 
> This is all hand made stuff and we will only recommend people who understand what they are doing use it. It's glass not plastic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . We will also stock cutting disks as well. (if we go full retail as we still do not know yet). We may not stock the 90 and 45 degree versions as they will be very hard to ship and may incur more fee's for packaging (custom boxes)
> 
> 
> 
> So basicly, you have to use the fittings to get bends?
Click to expand...

No, a propane or MAP//Pro torch will be more than sufficient to heat it enough to a working temperature. You can pick up a torch head with a ~14oz bottle of fuel for about $30, and a striker w/flints for about $4 if you don't already have em.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

The advise would be to use fittings to bend or buy the pre bends. if you Do decide to Use propane to bend these you will need to anneal the glass in a furnace at about 1700c to re harden it.

Once you have cut it, you can then use emery paper or silicone carbide to flatten the ends, if you use heat you again will need a furnace to anneal the glass.

We highly recommend you use gloves and goggles when working with glass (i didn't use gloves and i got shredded at one point !doh!). These will also be stocked in the shop as well as diamond cutting disks for the dremel.

OBV Mayhems is not responsable for any one cutting them self / harming them self due to the nature of glass. Basically if your a idiot dont use it .....


----------



## D0U8L3M

So probably a stupid question, but for the mayhems blue non-staining dye, can i mix it with the X1 clear/uv blue coolant? In the OP it says that the UV blue dye alone doesn't stain so I would assume that the clear/uv blue mix shouldn't either.

Also anyone know when PPCs will stock mayhems tubing? im just trying to keep my loop as clean and long lasting as can be so i figured id use all mayhems stuff since its all tested together. I ran the primochill Adv last year and it wasn't bad but i did have some residue in my CPU block when I tore it down, not sure what it was but it cleaned up pretty easy.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The advise would be to use fittings to bend or buy the pre bends. if you Do decide to Use propane to bend these you will need to anneal the glass in a furnace at about 1700c to re harden it.
> 
> Once you have cut it, you can then use emery paper or silicone carbide to flatten the ends, if you use heat you again will need a furnace to anneal the glass.
> 
> We highly recommend you use gloves and goggles when working with glass (i didn't use gloves and i got shredded at one point !doh!). These will also be stocked in the shop as well as diamond cutting disks for the dremel.
> 
> *OBV Mayhems is not responsable for any one cutting them self / harming them self due to the nature of glass.* Basically if your a idiot dont use it .....


Lol, in my various projects I've been electrocuted, grinded off flesh with a dremel sandpaper bit, lit my cloths on fire, lit my hair on fire, spilled acid on my self, and more. Some scrapes and cuts aren't too bad.

On a more serious note, are the Monsoon rigid compression fittings compatible with your hardline tubing, or will the lock collars not properly seal to the glass?

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

The tubing should be at PPC any from now to the beginning of next week.

The UV Clear blue in X1 or Pastel or on its own does not stain anything


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The tubing should be at PPC any from now to the beginning of next week.
> 
> The UV Clear blue in X1 or Pastel or on its own does not stain anything


Dope cant wait to set up my loop again, the staining from the dark blue make it look pretty bad after like 6-7 months.

Also you're about to hit 2k posts with the next one congrats


----------



## Mayhem

Wow didn't realise i had that many posts. Whoot 2,000 yay

Blue mainly stains when the liquids become acidic and the temp is high, its quite a rare event but does happen.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Wow didn't realise i had that many posts. Whoot 2,000 yay
> 
> Blue mainly stains when the liquids become acidic and the temp is high, its quite a rare event but does happen.


Well the only thing I did to prep the loop when everything was new was use the sysprep stuff that primochill gave in their tubing package, but to be honest im pretty sure that stuff didnt do a dam thing and was just a waste of time. My temps were usually around 28-30c im gonna play with the positions of things to try to optimize it some more this time around and im also getting the blitz pro cleaning kit this time to make sure everything is clean. Hopefully it will be better this time around, when i origionally set up the loop it was my first watercooling loop so I might have had some things routed poorly


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

For someone who knows relatively little about hard tubing (me), what would the differences be between the glass tubing and acrylic? I found some stuff online saying glass has the advantage of being more scratch resistant: http://www.thenakedscientists.com/forum/index.php?topic=9636.0 which I could see being useful for people that do those types of builds that focus heavily on aesthetics.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> For someone who knows relatively little about hard tubing (me), what would the differences be between the glass tubing and acrylic? I found some stuff online saying glass has the advantage of being more scratch resistant: http://www.thenakedscientists.com/forum/index.php?topic=9636.0 which I could see being useful for people that do those types of builds that focus heavily on aesthetics.


The glass is pretty much if you want it to look absolutely perfect IMO (yes ist more scratch resistant too). I think the pain it is to work with negates its usefulness though, its really only for show systems.

Also @Mayhem any update on those Pastel Extreme coolants??


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> For someone who knows relatively little about hard tubing (me), what would the differences be between the glass tubing and acrylic? I found some stuff online saying glass has the advantage of being more scratch resistant: http://www.thenakedscientists.com/forum/index.php?topic=9636.0 which I could see being useful for people that do those types of builds that focus heavily on aesthetics.


Well since acrylic isn't the only plastic rigid acrylic I'll list what I know about the various materials.

PETG
Pros:
softer and least brittle.
easiest to work with (bend)
Less expensive
can be cold bent
Cons:
Not UV resistant
relatively high absorption (absorbs coolant)

Acrylic
Pros:
stronger (By all means)
UV resistant
really low coolant absorption
Cons:
brittle
needs to be heated to bend
harder to get a good bend

Polycarbonate
Pros

Stronger than acrylic
shatter resistant

Cons:
Hard to source
expensive
hard to work with

Glass

Pros:
Scratch resistant
presumably no coolant absorption
epeen

Cons:
hard to work with
pricey

If anyone mentions anything not listed, I'll add it. These are just the pros/cons I'm aware of.

-Z


----------



## wnipper

Can I use little bit of the red dye to darken up the Aurora 2?


----------



## VSG

Looks like PPCs has the Mayhems soft tubing in stock now:

1/2" x 3/4" : http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-ultra-clear-tubing-1-2-x-3-4-13-19mm-tubing.html

3/8" x 5/8" : http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-ultra-clear-tubing-3-8-x-5-8-10-16mm-tubing.html

Very good prices these!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks like PPCs has the Mayhems soft tubing in stock now:
> 
> 1/2" x 3/4" : http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-ultra-clear-tubing-1-2-x-3-4-13-19mm-tubing.html
> 
> 3/8" x 5/8" : http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-ultra-clear-tubing-3-8-x-5-8-10-16mm-tubing.html
> 
> Very good prices these!


Finally! Just got 50 feet of 1/2 3/4 for $73.59 shipped. Much cheaper than PrimoFlex









Edit: Surprised they only got 500 feet each. I don't expect it to last very long!


----------



## VSG

50'?? What for?


----------



## JTravis1988

Hi everyone. I just starting learning about this aspect of water cooling today and am a bit confused by the whole thing. I really want to do a translucent blue color and when I looked, Mayhems was actualy the first thing I saw and I could actually make the exact color I invisioned in my head. Yay! So, I started looking more closely. PPCs seems to have either confusing information or not enough information about pretty much everything. I saw that they have the non-stain dye and though that would be awesome so I don't need to worry about my tubing changing colors (especially if I can manage to find any good tubing that's plasticizer free), but PPCs shows on their site that the non-stain blue can only be used with Mayhems distilled water or other Mayhems products to guarantee that it won't stain. I understand why this would be on there since you typically do have the highest chances of success using all materials designed to work together but I'm just really wanting to know whether or not this is really necessary.
I saw in another forum that Mayhem had mentioned adding biocides usually increase water conductivity anyway (since you're typically adding some form of acid) which got me thinking that it the quality of the distilled water should be less of an issue in the first place then, even if the store bought distilled water is less pure. Then I noticed that PPCs noted that the non-stain dyes contain biocides.

I guess the tl;dr version is this: Do I really need to use Mayhems distilled water? Distilled water here in the U.S. is pretty cheap and readily available, and I understand this isn't the case everywhere, which is why he sells it. I don't mind buying it, I just want to know whether or not it's _really_ necessary before spending the extra money on it. The second things is whether or not I'll need a biocide to use in conjunction with the non-stain dye, and if I do need one, which one should I get? My loop will most likely be mixed metals and PPCs says not to use Mayhems Bio Extreme on mixed metal systems.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 50'?? What for?


Bondage maybe hehe, i know i have rolled in the tubing with glazed eyes a few times now lol.

JTravis1988 -

You dont have to use Mayhems ultra pure, you can use any high purity water if you wish. The biocide in the none stain dye are very week and are to control the luminance of the dye so they degrade slower over time.

Personally if you want to look after your system use X1, XT-1 or Pastel







that my opinion though.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Why not? I blew through 25 feet of tubing in less than 2 months. Too many upgrades! 50 should be fine for a few years as I'm probably done with upgrades.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Why not? I blew through 25 feet of tubing in less than 2 months. Too many upgrades! 50 should be fine for a few years as I'm probably done with upgrades.


o.o I wish I had money to do that many upgrades haha.


----------



## v1ral

Alright since PPCS has the mathematical tubing I want to ask, how well would the pastel coolants work with the h220x's pump? Anyone have issues with this type of cooler?
I want to use colored coolant instead of colored tubing*colors aren't what I want*, at least we can tweak the colors.


----------



## VSG

Don't use pastel or Aurora with the MCP50X/MCP30 pumps, the latter of which is in your H220-X. It uses a different impeller design which will get the nanoparticles stuck in it.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Don't use pastel or Aurora with the MCP50X/MCP30 pumps, the latter of which is in your H220-X. It uses a different impeller design which will get the nanoparticles stuck in it.


Alright.. Thanks!!!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Don't use pastel or Aurora with the MCP50X/MCP30 pumps, the latter of which is in your H220-X. It uses a different impeller design which will get the nanoparticles stuck in it.


Was not aware of this limitation. Been wanting to go back to pastel but now that I'm running an mcp50x,







.

Any clue if the mcp50x will have this problem with the new pastel extreme (if that's what they're calling it, can't remember) coming out?


----------



## Mayhem

Were not aware of any pump not working with pastel.


----------



## VSG

It's Swiftech's own design, not a Laing pump. Impeller gets real close to the body.


----------



## Mayhem

Should not realy make any diffrance becase the impeller will not be a nano distace from the sides. Weve tested all manner of pumps and never had an issue to date with pastel. btw swiftech have tested our pastel them self and i cannot say much more than that but there is defiantly no issues







as far as were concerned.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Was not aware of this limitation. Been wanting to go back to pastel but now that I'm running an mcp50x,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Any clue if the mcp50x will have this problem with the new pastel extreme (if that's what they're calling it, can't remember) coming out?


They are referring to Aurora I believe. Not Pastel.

TCO


----------



## VSG

haven't tested this myself but Swiftech said they had and found it accumulating in the pump. No idea about their test conditions but it may be a result of a pH change in the loop also. I should ask and see.

CTO: Bryan said "nanoparticle" in general. Could be miscommunication though, all the more reason to follow up.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> haven't tested this myself but Swiftech said they had and found it accumulating in the pump. No idea about their test conditions but it may be a result of a pH change in the loop also. I should ask and see.
> 
> CTO: Bryan said "nanoparticle" in general. Could be miscommunication though, all the more reason to follow up.


I love to take chances. I am sooooooo tempted to just run Aurora In my S3 build but I do not believe I have the right Radiator ( RX 240mm XSPC) for the fluid. So I ordered pastel instead.

TCO


----------



## VSG

You are using Laing DDC pumps, those are tried and tested with pastel for sure. Aurora on the other hand...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You are using Laing DDC pumps, those are tried and tested with pastel for sure. Aurora on the other hand...


My Point exactly.

It is said that Aurora is fine with DDC pump speed over 80%.

TCO


----------



## VSG

Why is your RX 240 not suitable for Aurora? It has a dual row of tubes which in turn are the usual ~2mm in diameter so it's pretty much standard for the 50-65mm thick rads.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why is your RX 240 not suitable for Aurora? It has a dual row of tubes which in turn are the usual ~2mm in diameter so it's pretty much standard for the 50-65mm thick rads.


Aurora likes single row radiators. If that dual row rad is the only rad in the loop it /should/ work fine, but the issue with dual row rad is it's twice the area for it to get caught flowing at half the velocity. That means not only are you making it move slower meaning more likely to get caught in areas, but you're giving it twice the areas to get caught in.

-Z


----------



## VSG

Yeah but overall flow rate is lower with single row rads too. Assuming flow rate isn't an issue, is there anything else that can be an issue here?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah but overall flow rate is lower with single row rads too. Assuming flow rate isn't an issue, is there anything else that can be an issue here?


I am listening Z!

Because if I can pull off Aurora in the loop

EK Supremacy Evo, DDC at 100% , RX 240mm XSPC Rad, EK Original CSQ 780 GPU Waterblock and Ek Tube Res

Then I will Rock the ( #$%) out of Aurora at my Job (What I am building the Caselab S3 for)

The Cautious One


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah but overall flow rate is lower with single row rads too. Assuming flow rate isn't an issue, is there anything else that can be an issue here?


Yes and no, mostly no. You are vastly exaggerating the impact the increased pressure would have.

Take a look at pressure drops of various rads, graph courtesy of our lord and savoir, the all mighty Martin


As I'm sure we're already aware, more rows usually means less restriction.
I can't find the pressure curve on the GTS, but I'd imagine it'd be around 1.5PSI @ 1GPM

Yes you'll have a notable flow rate drop with single row rads due to increased restriction. That being said, higher restriction means higher turbulence. Turbulence will keep particles from settling. In order for the increased pressure to have the same effect as a dual row rad you'd essentially need to lose 50% of your flow from increased restriction, which is kind of unrealistic unless you throw 4 GTS rads in a single loop, which in that case I'd advise using aurora in general as that's a lot of rads for aurora.

So kind of yes, it will obviously reduce flowrate by a notable amount, but mostly no the flowrate drop from single row rads isn't really comparable to the reduced velocity on dual or triple row rads.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am listening Z!
> 
> Because if I can pull off Aurora in the loop
> 
> EK Supremacy Evo, DDC at 100% , RX 240mm XSPC Rad, EK Original CSQ 780 GPU Waterblock and Ek Tube Res
> 
> Then I will Rock the ( #$%) out of Aurora at my Job (What I am building the Caselab S3 for)
> 
> The Cautious One


That waterblock might a problem.


See that little doodad? Well here's a closer look


Tons of spots for aurora to get stuck in there. You can, of course, just rip that out. If you rip it out it should work fine, but that's going to mean quite a bit less cooling efficiency. If you want to use aurora what I would suggest is filling with pure water, getting a base line core temp with that thing and an injection plate on, drain the loop, rip that thing and the injection plate off, test your temps with it off, and if the increase in core temps isn't an issue for you then keep it out and use aurora.

Other than that nib-lit everything looks fine.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Aurora 2 will work on nearly everything except crap low head pressure pumps sat in a bay reservoir. We have it working in our quad pass 480 with a d5 sat on setting 4 and a humongous reservoir with no issues, even after 4 weeks of sitting there with in 3 minutes of it being turned its back in full suspension. Dont forget day in day out we are re working the fluids to make them better esp Aurora. If you compared Aurora 1 to Aruroa Rev (god knows what now) you'll find there is a vast difference in cooling performance and the way it works and looks.

Even now the particles in aurora 2 has gone from a 1 year life span up to 5 years due us changing the particles within the formula to a much better version and various other changes. So you can now store the coolant for upto 3 years and if all goes well have a working coolant upwards of 1 to 2 years giving a total life span of 5 years. Given 3 years ago you couldn't get aurora realy passed 6 months with out having a specific setup....

If anyone would like to re-test Aurora now let us know and we will sort out a sample.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Aurora 2 will work on nearly everything except crap low head pressure pumps sat in a bay reservoir. We have it working in our quad pass 480 with a d5 sat on setting 4 and a humongous reservoir with no issues, even after 4 weeks of sitting there with in 3 minutes of it being turned its back in full suspension. Dont forget day in day out we are re working the fluids to make them better esp Aurora. If you compared Aurora 1 to *Aurora Rev* (god knows what now) you'll find there is a vast difference in cooling performance and the way it works and looks.
> 
> Even now the particles in aurora 2 has gone from a 1 year life span up to 5 years due us changing the particles within the formula to a much better version and various other changes. So you can now store the coolant for upto 3 years and if all goes well have a working coolant upwards of 1 to 2 years giving a total life span of 5 years. Given 3 years ago you couldn't get aurora realy passed 6 months with out having a specific setup....
> 
> If anyone would like to re-test Aurora now let us know and we will sort out a sample.


Aurora Revolution would be a good name once you get it to a finalized revision.









Heh, in all seriousness I wasn't aware you'd made that much progress since A2, that's some wicked news Mick. Has the fluid formula changed, or are the surfactants still only expected to last about a year?Also, how's the functionallity with multi-row radiators if the particle size/formulation have been revised? I mean, the quad reflow design your rad uses uses has flow pattern that I would imagine would be more likely to disturb the deadzones located in the lip of the protrusions so I'd imagine it would be less likely to catch particles. That being said, it is also a triple row radiator, so it's kind of hard to imagine comparing aurora in that to aurora in a dual row radiator in my head. So to digress, how is aurora with dual row and triple row radiator cores?

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

In tests so far we have seen very little build up (obv this depends on the design and ability to catch particles), 95% of the time they just move straight though. This is a new formula and we are using a more concentrated version of non ionic surfactant. I simply now roll it out each improvement every batch we do.

It still settles out (cannot beat the laws of nature) how ever we can speed up the pick up process and the positive charge we offer up within the environments it resides in.


----------



## wnipper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If anyone would like to re-test Aurora now let us know and we will sort out a sample.


I'll be happy to, if you don't mind shipping to the US (I'll cover shipping cost). My setup is an EK Coolstream PE120 and a PE240, an EK Titan X block, EK Supremacy EVO, and the EK-XRES 140 DDC 3.2 PWM. I plan on switching to the red Aurora anyway and will be running for at least 12 months before my next system upgrade.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> In tests so far we have seen very little build up (obv this depends on the design and ability to catch particles), 95% of the time they just move straight though. This is a new formula and we are using a more concentrated version of non ionic surfactant. I simply now roll it out each improvement every batch we do.
> 
> It still settles out (cannot beat the laws of nature) how ever we can speed up the pick up process and the positive charge we offer up within the environments it resides in.


Thanks Z!! I + Rep for the Details and appreciate the time you took for that,

@Mayhem Now Mick. You never sent the pastel to me, or blitz, which was no problem. I got the blueberry instead....

But I will take a bottle of Aurora to do test. I already have a bottle of Red pastel on the way as a back up!

TCO

PM Me and I will be more than happy to run the Aurora 2 at work and document how long it takes.


----------



## wnipper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> PM Me and I will be more than happy to run the Aurora 2 at work and document how long it takes.


Lol. I do believe I've been trumped.

*hangs head, orders Aurora2 from Mayhems.co.uk*


----------



## JTravis1988

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> JTravis1988 -
> 
> You dont have to use Mayhems ultra pure, you can use any high purity water if you wish. The biocide in the none stain dye are very week and are to control the luminance of the dye so they degrade slower over time.
> 
> Personally if you want to look after your system use X1, XT-1 or Pastel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that my opinion though.


Thanks for the advice. Just for clarification, what would be the advantages and disadvantages of using the regular or non-stain dye in distilled water with a biocide additive versus using the X1 or XT-1 coolants? Would I still need to add a biocide even when using the coolants, and if so, are the coolants just better overall performance wise? I like the idea of the dyes because I feel like it would be much easier to more precisely control the color of the fluid (because I want a translucent blue to go with the theme of my computer) and not staining the tubes over time would be awesome so that the fluid always looks as good as it does on the first day.


----------



## sadeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JTravis1988*
> 
> Thanks for the advice. Just for clarification, what would be the advantages and disadvantages of using the regular or non-stain dye in distilled water with a biocide additive versus using the X1 or XT-1 coolants? Would I still need to add a biocide even when using the coolants, and if so, are the coolants just better overall performance wise? I like the idea of the dyes because I feel like it would be much easier to more precisely control the color of the fluid (because I want a translucent blue to go with the theme of my computer) and not staining the tubes over time would be awesome so that the fluid always looks as good as it does on the first day.


Just to clarify - as has been mentioned several times in this thread by many more knowledgeable than me, including Mayhems himself - even with a non-staining dye, soft tubing will still eventually absorb some of the coolant to keep from drying out, and it will absorb the dye in the coolant right along with it. This will eventually cause the tubing to have a tinted look after a long enough time.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sadeter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JTravis1988*
> 
> Thanks for the advice. Just for clarification, what would be the advantages and disadvantages of using the regular or non-stain dye in distilled water with a biocide additive versus using the X1 or XT-1 coolants? Would I still need to add a biocide even when using the coolants, and if so, are the coolants just better overall performance wise? I like the idea of the dyes because I feel like it would be much easier to more precisely control the color of the fluid (because I want a translucent blue to go with the theme of my computer) and not staining the tubes over time would be awesome so that the fluid always looks as good as it does on the first day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to clarify - as has been mentioned several times in this thread by many more knowledgeable than me, including Mayhems himself - even with a non-staining dye, soft tubing will still eventually absorb some of the coolant to keep from drying out, and it will absorb the dye in the coolant right along with it. This will eventually cause the tubing to have a tinted look after a long enough time.
Click to expand...

It's worth noting, however, pastel extreme will not do this. Pastel will, but pastel extreme doesn't use dyes, it uses coloured nanoparticles.

-Z


----------



## sadeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sadeter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JTravis1988*
> 
> Thanks for the advice. Just for clarification, what would be the advantages and disadvantages of using the regular or non-stain dye in distilled water with a biocide additive versus using the X1 or XT-1 coolants? Would I still need to add a biocide even when using the coolants, and if so, are the coolants just better overall performance wise? I like the idea of the dyes because I feel like it would be much easier to more precisely control the color of the fluid (because I want a translucent blue to go with the theme of my computer) and not staining the tubes over time would be awesome so that the fluid always looks as good as it does on the first day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to clarify - as has been mentioned several times in this thread by many more knowledgeable than me, including Mayhems himself - even with a non-staining dye, soft tubing will still eventually absorb some of the coolant to keep from drying out, and it will absorb the dye in the coolant right along with it. This will eventually cause the tubing to have a tinted look after a long enough time.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's worth noting, however, pastel extreme will not do this. Pastel will, but pastel extreme doesn't use dyes, it uses coloured nanoparticles.
> 
> -Z
Click to expand...

Ooh, that is an excellent point. He is looking for a translucent blue though which cannot be achieved via any pastel.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sadeter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sadeter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JTravis1988*
> 
> Thanks for the advice. Just for clarification, what would be the advantages and disadvantages of using the regular or non-stain dye in distilled water with a biocide additive versus using the X1 or XT-1 coolants? Would I still need to add a biocide even when using the coolants, and if so, are the coolants just better overall performance wise? I like the idea of the dyes because I feel like it would be much easier to more precisely control the color of the fluid (because I want a translucent blue to go with the theme of my computer) and not staining the tubes over time would be awesome so that the fluid always looks as good as it does on the first day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to clarify - as has been mentioned several times in this thread by many more knowledgeable than me, including Mayhems himself - even with a non-staining dye, soft tubing will still eventually absorb some of the coolant to keep from drying out, and it will absorb the dye in the coolant right along with it. This will eventually cause the tubing to have a tinted look after a long enough time.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's worth noting, however, pastel extreme will not do this. Pastel will, but pastel extreme doesn't use dyes, it uses coloured nanoparticles.
> 
> -Z
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ooh, that is an excellent point. He is looking for a translucent blue though which cannot be achieved via any pastel.
Click to expand...

Yep, just thought I'd point that out while we're on the topic of tubing leeching dye.

-Z


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Come ON! Who doesn't want to see some Aurora in this Res?



TCO


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Come ON! Who doesn't want to see some Aurora in this Res?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


TCO, may I know what reservoir bracket is being used in the photo?

The clips are prolly the EK 60mm ones right? What about the main body?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> TCO, may I know what reservoir bracket is being used in the photo?
> 
> The clips are prolly the EK 60mm ones right? What about the main body?


Believe it's this guy:



*Link to PPCS listing*

I got mine at my local Microcenter.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> TCO, may I know what reservoir bracket is being used in the photo?
> 
> The clips are prolly the EK 60mm ones right? What about the main body?


THe man is right, the Ek Uni 120mm Pump Holder. The Clips were sold as "EK V3 Res Holder clips" or something of that nature. I pieced together the Reservoir. 150mm Tube. V3 Ek Mutli option top and Bottom (White)

TCO


----------



## wnipper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Believe it's this guy:
> 
> 
> 
> *Link to PPCS listing*
> 
> I got mine at my local Microcenter.


I WISH WE HAD LOCAL PLACES THAT SOLD WATERCOOLING SUPPLIES!!!!!


----------



## Mayhem

The world is a smaller place everything is local if you have the internet and some money.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wnipper*
> 
> I WISH WE HAD LOCAL PLACES THAT SOLD WATERCOOLING SUPPLIES!!!!!


You might just want to shop online









I would never think a local place would have the supplies I needed. Best buy doesn't even have the GPU's I need.









TCO


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You might just want to shop online
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would never think a local place would have the supplies I needed. Best buy doesn't even have the GPU's I need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Someone is lucky enough to live next to places that sell it.
I have one 2 hours away.


----------



## JTravis1988

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It's worth noting, however, pastel extreme will not do this. Pastel will, but pastel extreme doesn't use dyes, it uses coloured nanoparticles.
> 
> -Z


Interesting. I didn't catch that when I was skimming through. My primary concern is in difference between using distilled water and dye vs using a coolant. I'm assuming they both still require the use of a biocide, so is there any real advantage to one over the other?


----------



## Chiobe

So any news on when we can buy Pastel Extreme?


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Add me to the club. X1 clear UV blue.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JTravis1988*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It's worth noting, however, pastel extreme will not do this. Pastel will, but pastel extreme doesn't use dyes, it uses coloured nanoparticles.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting. I didn't catch that when I was skimming through. My primary concern is in difference between using distilled water and dye vs using a coolant. I'm assuming they both still require the use of a biocide, so is there any real advantage to one over the other?
Click to expand...

X1, XT-1, and Pastel all have premixed biocide in them. Coolants have anti-corrosives and surfactants in them, which are better for the longevity and overall health of the loops parts and lifespan. Premixed coolants/coolant concentrates also tend to work better with dye, since they're already pH balanced and designed to work well with dye. Just a heads up, Biocide extreme, i.e. CuSo4, doesn't work too well with UV dyes. Pretty much any copper sulphate based biocide (I&H Deadwater, PT Nuke, Biocide Extreme, etc.) will eat away at coolant UV effects over time.

-Z


----------



## JTravis1988

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> X1, XT-1, and Pastel all have premixed biocide in them. Coolants have anti-corrosives and surfactants in them, which are better for the longevity and overall health of the loops parts and lifespan. Premixed coolants/coolant concentrates also tend to work better with dye, since they're already pH balanced and designed to work well with dye. Just a heads up, Biocide extreme, i.e. CuSo4, doesn't work too well with UV dyes. Pretty much any copper sulphate based biocide (I&H Deadwater, PT Nuke, Biocide Extreme, etc.) will eat away at coolant UV effects over time.
> 
> -Z


I appreciate the info. I'm just getting everything outlined for my build and I've never done a watercooling loop before so I'm a bit lost when it comes to all this. Are there coolants I can get that aren't colored that I can dye? I don't plan on using UV.


----------



## fireradeon

Ho guys. I bought mayhem pastel orange to put in my new loop. I tested the loop with distilled water and its ok. Now i wanna put the mayhem but there are residues of distilled water, for example in the CPU block (I emptied everything I could in all the loop). I can still put the liquid? (I have a liter bottle of mayhem not concentrate 250ml).


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireradeon*
> 
> Ho guys. I bought mayhem pastel orange to put in my new loop. I tested the loop with distilled water and its ok. Now i wanna put the mayhem but there are residues of distilled water, for example in the CPU block (I emptied everything I could in all the loop). I can still put the liquid? (I have a liter bottle of mayhem not concentrate 250ml).


Its fine. As long as its only a few drops, so should you not notice any difference.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireradeon*
> 
> Ho guys. I bought mayhem pastel orange to put in my new loop. I tested the loop with distilled water and its ok. Now i wanna put the mayhem but there are residues of distilled water, for example in the CPU block (I emptied everything I could in all the loop). I can still put the liquid? (I have a liter bottle of mayhem not concentrate 250ml).


I would rather pay the $40 and get the blitz pro kit, rather than losing ~$20 in coolant to changing colors. Then buying another orange, and have it change colors to.


----------



## fireradeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I would rather pay the $40 and get the blitz pro kit, rather than losing ~$20 in coolant to changing colors. Then buying another orange, and have it change colors to.


I dont understand. I have a NEW loop. All components are new, i have only used distilled water to test it. I asked only if with residues of distilled water the mayhem color can be used.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireradeon*
> 
> I dont understand. I have a NEW loop. All components are new, i have only used distilled water to test it. I asked only if with residues of distilled water the mayhem color can be used.


Premix got destilled water in it, so the only change is that it might be a bit more watered down then its suppose to, but you wont notice any difference (unless the blocks are full of destilled water).


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fireradeon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I would rather pay the $40 and get the blitz pro kit, rather than losing ~$20 in coolant to changing colors. Then buying another orange, and have it change colors to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont understand. I have a NEW loop. All components are new, i have only used distilled water to test it. I asked only if with residues of distilled water the mayhem color can be used.
Click to expand...

If you already flushing the blocks & radiators clean, then there should be no problem.


----------



## fireradeon

Ok thx


----------



## siox69

hello guys.. i just want to ask. i got an extra bottle of mayhems sunset yellow on my previous build and recently purchased 2 UV led strips and a bottle of Mayhems UV yellow green. can you help me what mixture that i can achieve to fully UV reactivate my coolant. i wish to retain the yellow color of my yellow theme. thanks in advance!

1. Mayhems Sunset yellow+ Mayhems UV yellow green
2. Mayehms X1 + Mayhems UV yellow green
3. Mayhems Pastel White + Mayhems UV yellow green


----------



## fireradeon

Ok, i did it. No problem with loop but the color is a little faded and i don't like it (it's pastel Orange Mayhem)



I would get a color like this one:



How can i obtain an orange like that? Can i add the Pastel red concentrate 250ml mayhem to brighter my color? Or i have to buy the Dyes colors?

Can you help me please? thx


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'd almost go w/ just dyes to obtain the Gigabyte orange


----------



## fireradeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I'd almost go w/ just dyes to obtain the Gigabyte orange


So you suggest to buy the orange dyies and add it, or the red one dyes?


----------



## Mayhem

Add orange dyes.


----------



## fireradeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Add orange dyes.


Ok. I see that the guy who Made the build i linked has a thread here on the forum. He used pastel orange, dye red and dye orange. So i buy the same and try to add first orange then red.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Just replaced all my tubing yesterday with Mayhems 1/2" 3/4" and it was great to work with. The tubing is so much more flexible than my previous tubing (Durelene) and it was much easier to cut and fit the pieces onto my barbs. Also added a ton of the non-stain red dye with a drop of blue and it looks pretty decent.


----------



## Nornam

Looking forward to being able to get some of Mayhems tubing if they are going to be doing a 7/16" x 5/8" version??... I Hope so cause all my fittings are 7/16" x 5/8"........ Fingers crossed







......

Nam.......


----------



## Mayhem

Hi norman gis aPM and ill sort you out.

Were just awaiting delivery of the glass (its taking ages). Once we have it im going to send some to B-Neg for his independant thoughts on it as we value you his opinion on this. If all is well we will retail the stuff after a few Pcs have been built with it and fully tested.


----------



## Mayhem

http://www.uk-cpi.com/case-studies/cpi-work-with-mayhems-on-liquid-cooling-fluid-formulations-for-computer-processing-units/

Time is moving on.

The PDF -> http://www.uk-cpi.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/CPI-work-with-Mayhems-to-develop-liquid-cooling-fluid-for-CPU.pdf Case study


----------



## wnipper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> http://www.uk-cpi.com/case-studies/cpi-work-with-mayhems-on-liquid-cooling-fluid-formulations-for-computer-processing-units/
> 
> Time is moving on.
> 
> The PDF -> http://www.uk-cpi.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/CPI-work-with-Mayhems-to-develop-liquid-cooling-fluid-for-CPU.pdf Case study


I'm pretty new around here, but I have a great love and admiration for entrepreneurial spririt. with that in mind, CONGRATULATIONS! I'm freaking excited for you!


----------



## JTravis1988

Speaking of tubing, when it comes to diameters, how does the size effect the loop's cooling efficiency? I was thinking about going 1/2" inner 3/4" outer but that seems like it would be kind of large and cumbersome to work with so I thought maybe 3/8" inner 5/8" outer. Is it just preference or is there something else to actually take into consideration?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JTravis1988*
> 
> Speaking of tubing, when it comes to diameters, how does the size effect the loop's cooling efficiency? I was thinking about going 1/2" inner 3/4" outer but that seems like it would be kind of large and cumbersome to work with so I thought maybe 3/8" inner 5/8" outer. Is it just preference or is there something else to actually take into consideration?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1562491/tubing-size-what-diameter/0_20

As far as cooling efficiency/flow rate, negligible.

The 1/2" 3/4" I got is great to work with as it's very flexible. If you have a really small chassis it might be worth going smaller.


----------



## Mayhem

Size has little effect tbh.

Dam that was a ninja and half









@wnipper thank you


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> http://www.uk-cpi.com/case-studies/cpi-work-with-mayhems-on-liquid-cooling-fluid-formulations-for-computer-processing-units/
> 
> Time is moving on.
> 
> The PDF -> http://www.uk-cpi.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/CPI-work-with-Mayhems-to-develop-liquid-cooling-fluid-for-CPU.pdf Case study


Very much CONGRATS indeed....... *Getting Bigger by being Better* seems to be the way.... This is great to see after all the hard work MAYHEMS puts in to this little hobby of ours...







.....

Nam.....


----------



## Mayhem

Would people like to see REACH compliant tubing from us in UV Pastel Red, UV Blue and UV White ?

@Nam thks bud


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JTravis1988*
> 
> Speaking of tubing, when it comes to diameters, how does the size effect the loop's cooling efficiency? I was thinking about going 1/2" inner 3/4" outer but that seems like it would be kind of large and cumbersome to work with so I thought maybe 3/8" inner 5/8" outer. Is it just preference or is there something else to actually take into consideration?


1/4" ID or smaller has a sever pressure drop with the flowrates we work with, anything larger than 1/4" ID is fine. Anything larger is also solely for aesthetics. Thicker tubing (difference between ID and OD) will have a smaller bend radius, but will be less likely to kind, while thinner tubing will have a larger bend radius but be more likely to kink.

As for performance, it's entirely negligible past 1/4"

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Would people like to see REACH compliant tubing from us in UV Pastel Red, UV Blue and UV White ?
> 
> @Nam thks bud


Tubing in Pastel red (etc) as in the tubing itself is coloured? As in semi-transparent, or completely opaque tubing? Pairing the UV Blue (assuming it's invisible UV blue) could be really interesting when paired with a red coolant, and some UV spotlights.

While we're on the subject of tubing, I don't think it was ever answered so I'll just throw it out there again. Does the glass tubing work with the Monsoon Lock Collar compression fittings, or will the polycarbonate lock collar's adhesive not adhere to the glass to form a sufficiently strong fluid tight seal?

-Z


----------



## JTravis1988

@Mayhem
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1562491/tubing-size-what-diameter/0_20
> 
> As far as cooling efficiency/flow rate, negligible.
> 
> The 1/2" 3/4" I got is great to work with as it's very flexible. If you have a really small chassis it might be worth going smaller.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 1/4" ID or smaller has a sever pressure drop with the flowrates we work with, anything larger than 1/4" ID is fine. Anything larger is also solely for aesthetics. Thicker tubing (difference between ID and OD) will have a smaller bend radius, but will be less likely to kind, while thinner tubing will have a larger bend radius but be more likely to kink.
> 
> As for performance, it's entirely negligible past 1/4"
> 
> -Z
> Tubing in Pastel red (etc) as in the tubing itself is coloured? As in semi-transparent, or completely opaque tubing? Pairing the UV Blue (assuming it's invisible UV blue) could be really interesting when paired with a red coolant, and some UV spotlights.
> 
> While we're on the subject of tubing, I don't think it was ever answered so I'll just throw it out there again. Does the glass tubing work with the Monsoon Lock Collar compression fittings, or will the polycarbonate lock collar's adhesive not adhere to the glass to form a sufficiently strong fluid tight seal?
> 
> -Z


I appreciate the info guys. Thanks a lot.
And thank you to @Mayhem too.


----------



## Mayhem

@ZytheEKS no the glass will not work with the lock collar how ever there is a fix.. Use big O-Ring, when you compress the outer threaded collar it compresses the O-ring locking the glass into place







. Not perfect but a fix. I personally recommend using ek, BP or any fitting that uses o-ring to slip over the fittings, 2 O-rings are better how ever 3 O-rings would be even better.


----------



## Brulf

Maybe someone could shed some light on this

This was day one



This was day three



Now i added more dye but the color is fading again... someone suggested there could be unmixed water sitting in the loop somewhere and it was still diluting it, but what i did notice is that i bumped the case and what looked like a "cloud" of color came through into the res is there anything that can separate the dye in the water, all i'm using is demineralised (can't get distilled) kill coil and mayhems purple?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

That's strange. I wonder if it's from radiator manufacturing residue.


----------



## Isildurrrr

I'm in the process of working on my first watercooled build. My lighting is going to be blue, and I'd like to have blue UV coolant. Can someone recommend to me what the best products are that I need to purchase for this effect? I'm just not sure exactly what I need to get this effect.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @ZytheEKS no the glass will not work with the lock collar how ever there is a fix.. Use big O-Ring, when you compress the outer threaded collar it compresses the O-ring locking the glass into place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Not perfect but a fix. I personally recommend using ek, BP or any fitting that uses o-ring to slip over the fittings, 2 O-rings are better how ever 3 O-rings would be even better.


Dang, because I have about 20 of those lock collar compression fittings. Might order some of the glass tubing, and some extra lock collars and play around with different adhesives. See if anything can bind properly.

I'll post results if/when I get around to it.

-Z


----------



## HackJoe

Hi folks,

I've just added Mayhems Pastel Orange to this build.



I bought the coolant as concentrate, added the 250ml of coolant to 750ml of DI water then filled the loop. it's bugging me a little as it doesnt look orange enough. Almost too diluted. With an LED strip under it, it looks good. but under my studio lights it's not quite right. Annoyingly it photographes a better color. I'm not sure if it's me... too many hours today on this project under these lights I'm struggling to make out shades of orange but its bothering me..



So, can I add more concentrate? I'd need to buy another bottle 1tr was plenty. If I bought a second 250ml bottle could I top up the loop without mixing first. To really inject some more color?

Thanks for the help guys.

J.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HackJoe*
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> I've just added Mayhems Pastel Orange to this build.
> 
> 
> 
> I bought the coolant as concentrate, added the 250ml of coolant to 750ml of DI water then filled the loop. it's bugging me a little as it doesnt look orange enough. Almost too diluted. With an LED strip under it, it looks good. but under my studio lights it's not quite right. Annoyingly it photographes a better color. I'm not sure if it's me... too many hours today on this project under these lights I'm struggling to make out shades of orange but its bothering me..
> 
> 
> 
> So, can I add more concentrate? I'd need to buy another bottle 1tr was plenty. If I bought a second 250ml bottle could I top up the loop without mixing first. To really inject some more color?
> 
> Thanks for the help guys.
> 
> J.


More concentrate probably won't give you the desired effect. Add some of this for a stronger orange, some yellow for a lighter orange or some red/blue for a darker orange.

I'd also double check pH. Should be around 7-8.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

@Brulf Your PH is out of wack. The give away sign is that the purple is fading, clean your rad properly.


----------



## devilhead

Checked now my PH of white pastel(now getting a bit yellow) in my build, so it is 6.2







So it looks that is time to replace liquid







and again use Blitz pro kit








Last time i have cleaned my system with blitz kit - 10 months ago and used new Pastel white. What can be wrong?


----------



## Mayhem

Did you calibrate the PH meter first also silly question what temp are you testing at. p.s you fluid doesn't look yellow to me


----------



## devilhead

hi, what do you mean "calibrate"? i have cleaned those tool nicely with distilled water. Checked with those tool distilled water it showed 7.4, and new pastel liquid 7.2








And white pastel isn't yellow, but it has really small amount of yellow, in acrylic tubing is able better to see


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Brulf Your PH is out of wack. The give away sign is that the purple is fading, clean your rad properly.


How does the pH have an effect on color intensity? Is it "eating" the dye or something?


----------



## Mayhem

Dyes are very much PH sentsative as are Coolants. Some dyes has a narrorow PH range while other such as Blue dyes have a much wider PH range.

Red, Purple, Orange, Yellow all have a narrow PH Usage range as does UV Clear Blue how ever its not a dye just to confuse you more.

Blue, Deep Rep, UV Pink, UV yellow Ornage, UV Laser Green all have a wide PH range.

This is why some people's coolants colour or fluid fails and 99.999% of the time its simply they have not cleaned there rads.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Dyes are very much PH sentsative as are Coolants. Some dyes has a narrorow PH range while other such as Blue dyes have a much wider PH range.
> 
> Red, Purple, Orange, Yellow all have a narrow PH Usage range as does UV Clear Blue how ever its not a dye just to confuse you more.
> 
> Blue, Deep Rep, UV Pink, UV yellow Ornage, UV Laser Green all have a wide PH range.
> 
> This is why some people's coolants colour or fluid fails and 99.999% of the time its simply they have not cleaned there rads.


So could you technically add some acid or base to the loop to get it back in range and would the color come back? How exactly does the pH effect it though?


----------



## Mayhem

TBH i wouldn't do that, there has to be a reason why the PH is out of whack, it always better to fix the issue than try and produce a work around. E.g cleaning the rad will normally fix the issue how ever if it didn't then a deeper inspection of why the system is doing that is needed.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> My first attempt at hardline tubing. I couldn't resist not trying the mayhems pastel green.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But reading some of the post regarding staining, I suppose it's only for soft tubing? Would it stain the blocks or rads?


Is that pastel green or mint green? I want the exact same color in the pics above.

Thank you


----------



## ali13245

What spray paint did you use on the fans if you dont mind my asking?


----------



## grandestfail9190

Just curious as I'm not sure how up to date this information is, but your website said the Pastel coolants do not work well with Tygon tubing and would stain it a greenish color. Has this issue been resolved? I was intending on using their plasticizer-free tubing to avoid and sort of issues.


----------



## Mayhem

We realy need to update our site now, Tygon is no longer the best tubing out there and yes some versions do turn greenish.


----------



## grandestfail9190

Fair enough. I also noticed at Performance PCs, they have some tubing for sale that is under your name. Is this from you guys? Also, will it tint with the pastel coolant and is it plasticizer free?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grandestfail9190*
> 
> Fair enough. I also noticed at Performance PCs, they have some tubing for sale that is under your name. Is this from you guys? Also, will it tint with the pastel coolant and is it plasticizer free?


Plasticizers Free Flex Tubing isn't a thing.

An exert from a prior conversation I had:
Quote:


> The only plasticizers free "flex" tubing on the market is Tygon 2001 Lab tubing. I emphasize the quotes around the word flex. From my experience, which is admittedly very limited as I've only ever used it in one stretch on a drain line, it is very stiff, very poor bend radius, and kinks easily. Once it kinks it also leaves visible marks on the tubing. It's also fairly expensive, ranging from $5-$7 per foot
> 
> Plasticizers free flex tubing is somewhat of an oxymoron. Plasticizers in of themselves are what make tubing flexible. When most tubing says "Plasticizers free" what it really means is diethylhexyl phthalate plasticizers free tubing, or DEHP free for short. Diethylhexyl phthalate is one of the most inexpensive, and as a result one of the most common, forms of plasticizers used in flex tubing. Since DEHP is the plasticizers that are known to cause leaching, you want to stick to non DEHP plasticizersf tubing.
> 
> Buying a tubing because they "look clear" is a really silly thing to do. Most all tubing is going to look clear out of the box, but some have the DEHP plasticizers in them which will leech out of the tubing over time. When this happens you end up with a white powder looking coating on the tubing. There is also the matter of dye "staining". People say "dyes stain" all the time, but in reality only a couple of dye colours are known to readily have issues with staining. What happens when a dye "stains" flex tubing is it's actually absorbing coloured coolant. Tubing will absorb coolant, some tubing more than others, and if the coolant is red, blue, orange, purple, or yellow guess what colour the tubing is absorbing? So to digress on this matter, of course you want tubing to look clear, but just because it looks clear don't assume it will stay clear.


Assuming you mean this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-ultra-clear-tubing-1-2-x-3-4-13-19mm-tubing.html

Then yes, it's this: http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-desolation-ultra-clear-tubing-1-2-3-4-19-13mm-tubing.html

DEHP free and phthalate free

-Z


----------



## SteezyTN

I see that PPCS sells them at one foot pieces. Does this mean if I order 10 feet, I'll get 10 pieces of 1 foot each? Or I'll receive 10 full feet? I won't be ordering now, because I need to wait for the 7/16 x 5/8 size tubing.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I see that PPCS sells them at one foot pieces. Does this mean if I order 10 feet, I'll get 10 pieces of 1 foot each? Or I'll receive 10 full feet? I won't be ordering now, because I need to wait for the 7/16 x 5/8 size tubing.


Every piece of tubing I have ordered has come in one long length. Safe to say they won't cut it into ten 1 foot segments lol. It's like sleeving. It can be sold in meter lengths and if you order 5 meters, they aren't going to send you 5 individual meter lengths of sleeve.

You're safe







I ordered some of the 3/8 5/8 and some new compression fittings the other day.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I see that PPCS sells them at one foot pieces. Does this mean if I order 10 feet, I'll get 10 pieces of 1 foot each? Or I'll receive 10 full feet? I won't be ordering now, because I need to wait for the 7/16 x 5/8 size tubing.


I'd just get this, and have a snug fit. I doubt Mayhems will be dropping more sizes anytime soon, as they have been busting out new products left and right and quite frankly I see that continuing for a while. When you get a fire lit, you keep the flames lit.

-Z


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd just get this, and have a snug fit. I doubt Mayhems will be dropping more sizes anytime soon, as they have been busting out new products left and right and quite frankly I see that continuing for a while. When you get a fire lit, you keep the flames lit.
> 
> -Z


Would 3/8 x 5/8 fit on 7/16 fittings, I would be werrie about or sing that size.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd just get this, and have a snug fit. I doubt Mayhems will be dropping more sizes anytime soon, as they have been busting out new products left and right and quite frankly I see that continuing for a while. When you get a fire lit, you keep the flames lit.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Would 3/8 x 5/8 fit on 7/16 fittings, I would be werrie about or sing that size.
Click to expand...

3/8 == 6/16 < 7/16

It's 1/16 of an inch smaller ID than your fittings, so it'll definitely be a snug fit, but the tubing should have a small amount of elasticity to stretch over it. From what I understand using 3/8 ID tubing on 7/16 barbs is a somewhat common practice, and the lip on compression fittings isn't nearly as large as the lip on barbs (assuming you have compression fittings) so you should be fine

-Z


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> X1, XT-1, and Pastel all have premixed biocide in them. Coolants have anti-corrosives and surfactants in them, which are better for the longevity and overall health of the loops parts and lifespan. Premixed coolants/coolant concentrates also tend to work better with dye, since they're already pH balanced and designed to work well with dye. Just a heads up, Biocide extreme, i.e. CuSo4, doesn't work too well with UV dyes. Pretty much any copper sulphate based biocide (I&H Deadwater, PT Nuke, Biocide Extreme, etc.) will eat away at coolant UV effects over time.
> 
> -Z


What type of biocide does X1 UV have in it. I would want to stay away from copper sulfate types as EK still lists them as problematic
From EK web site
_Refrain from using Copper (II) Sulphate (CuSO4) additive - common trade name "Nuke Cu" or "Biocide Cu" - due to it's nature to react with metals usually found in liquid cooling loop, especially radiators (Zn, Cu, Sn) as well as Aluminum (Al) thus promoting corrosion. Using CuSO4 also accellerates visually discouraging copper tarnishing phenomena.
_Thanks
Dan


----------



## fast_fate

Australian OCN'ers

30% off Mayhems Coolant / Dyes this week at PLE
Out of curiosity I tried the code on Mayhems rads also - but doesn't work.
Code does work on all coolant / additives, although there is only a limited selection in stock


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Would 3/8 x 5/8 fit on 7/16 fittings, I would be werrie about or sing that size.


I have two pieces of 3/8 durelene on 1/2 barbs. So it will fit, wasn't easy but it's doable. Also have 7/16 on 1/2 barbs.


----------



## Mayhem

@DanBr copper sulphate is a stand alone product we use diffrent biocides in the X1, XT-1 and Pastel so no need to worry.

Right im off home to celebrate my 44th with my kids have a good weekend all.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @DanBr copper sulphate is a stand alone product we use diffrent biocides in the X1, XT-1 and Pastel so no need to worry.
> 
> Right im off home to celebrate my 44th with my kids have a good weekend all.


Thanks,

Happy Birthday

I will be getting your X1-Clear uv

Dan


----------



## gdubc

Happy Birthday, Mick!


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Happy Birthday, Mick!


Happy birthday from me too:thumb:


----------



## ali13245

Does anyone if there is any difference between mayhems pastel green and "mint green"? Im trying to figure out which one I should order


----------



## Mayhem

both the same, dropped the naming convention that's all.


----------



## ali13245

Alright thanks! Is there also any difference between buying the premixed bottle or concentrate? Will they still both be the same exact color?


----------



## Mayhem

The colour will always be slightly different between batches, you can batch match by choosing the same DOM on the bottle.


----------



## ali13245

Im sorry, but what do you mean by "batch matching"? Also what is DOM?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Ive got some of the Mayhems 3/8 ID 5/8 OD tubing on way from PPC's. Thinking about running some blue dye in the system to match the sleeving and powdercoat. Looking forward to it!

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## ali13245

This is basically the color I am going for, if I buy the same bottle of pastel mint green show above, will I be able to achieve the same or somewhat near results in the photo?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Im sorry, but what do you mean by "batch matching"? Also what is DOM?


DOM is Date Of Manufacture. So you would batch match by date.


----------



## ali13245

Oh alright, thanks for clarifying that


----------



## Mayhem

WIP



Once the new glass tubing arrives we will be installing all new glass tubing.

System Specs are (so far)

Intel P G3258 OC'ed to 5.3 Ghz
HD 7979 running at 1600 Mhz Mem / 1150 Mhz Gpu
Mayhems Havoc with 4 x corsair sp 120's (push pull)
Current Mayhems Ultra Clear Tubing - Will change to real glass tubing soon

Cheap nice little system.


----------



## stanneveld

Looks like a small rad in there








(yeah yeah...made big mistake using Feser ONE and all my blocks got "TERMINATED" after 4 months, damn red gue everywhere)
Now i am the prowd user of 5 lieters of X1








(and just spend 2 days cleaning all the red gue, killed my videocard block rubber 290X CSQ they dont sell that anymore (doh) so ordered a Aquacompuuter one)


----------



## Mayhem

haha yeh get yours on push pull


----------



## HackJoe

Real glass tubing, that sounds exciting? Did I miss pictures of it further back in the thread? Adding Orange Dye to the Orange Pastel did the trick. thanks for the swift support. Great thread.

So HERE is the end result.


..

J.


----------



## Nornam

That's looking very very Nice @HackJoe, Looking real neat & well laid out, Colour looking good as well... Nice One







....

OH!!....... & HAPPY BELATED BIRTHDAY MICK!!....







...

Nam...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quick question folks. After full blitz treatment following instructions to the minute. 3 months of use of Pastel (both white and black on different separate loops). Took a sample of pastel from both loops and tested the Ph. Found both samples around 8.0 at 26 C. Is that normal? It seems a bit on the high side to me. I would expect something around 6.5-7.5 Ph. Ph meter was calibrated to 6.86 (in fact two different ones from two blitz kits) and readings seems accurate and replicable (distil around 6.6 Ph, calibration solution at 6.9 and the pastel at 8 Ph).

BTW happy belated birthday Mick







Good to see you around with what it seems more energy Nornam


----------



## stanneveld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HackJoe*
> 
> Real glass tubing, that sounds exciting? Did I miss pictures of it further back in the thread? Adding Orange Dye to the Orange Pastel did the trick. thanks for the swift support. Great thread.
> 
> So HERE is the end result.
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> J.


Nice pump in there xres 140 i think, i use the 100 version with pwm.
Did some test with flow and pressure with them pumps (pwm) they perform the same as a 3.25
the pwm got some more flow and pressure not that the pump is different but it runs at 4500 and the 3.25 i have runs 4000.
470 lieters an hour with the (pmp400) DDC3.25 normal and 560 lieters with the pwm version. (using a 240 rad no blocks)
Compaired to an EK DDC top V2 i normaly used that xres is a killer. got about 350 EK DDC top v2 vs 560 xres 100 top


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quick question folks. After full blitz treatment following instructions to the minute. 3 months of use of Pastel (both white and black on different separate loops). Took a sample of pastel from both loops and tested the Ph. Found both samples around 8.0 at 26 C. Is that normal? It seems a bit on the high side to me. I would expect something around 6.5-7.5 Ph. Ph meter was calibrated to 6.86 (in fact two different ones from two blitz kits) and readings seems accurate and replicable (distil around 6.6 Ph, calibration solution at 6.9 and the pastel at 8 Ph).
> 
> BTW happy belated birthday Mick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good to see you around with what it seems more energy Nornam


Yeh that seems with in reason, 8 is high but still with in range.


----------



## VSG

Mick/anyone else, have you noticed any issues of pastel "settling down" through a Watercool Heatkiller MORA3 420? I wonder if the new Pastel Extreme might be a better solution there, if at all viable.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mick/anyone else, have you noticed any issues of pastel "settling down" through a Watercool Heatkiller MORA3 420? I wonder if the new Pastel Extreme might be a better solution there, if at all viable.


Not through a watercool 420 to be specific. I have the White pastel and of Course the Blue Berry and Green Pastel. All purchased as 250ml Bottles.

They Settle after around 5 hours. What happens is that I have a clear blue and green fluid sitting on top of the Pastel. Once the Pump is initiated, I can physically see the fluid being mixed again in the Reservoir, and after around 1 min everything is back to normal.

TCO


----------



## VSG

Just to be sure, you are using this:



or another finish version of it, but all having the same core:



which have those 20ish turns in 4 rows.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just to be sure, you are using this:
> 
> 
> 
> or another finish version of it, but all having the same core:
> 
> 
> 
> which have those 20ish turns in 4 rows.


No Not at all. I edited the previous post. To NOT through 420. Just stating what is happening in a normal loop contained inside the case.

TCO


----------



## Apothocary

@Mayhem

You'll be pleased to know that my new build is likely to be littered with Mayhem parts. The pump, rad, coolant, tubing and more...

See my parts list here: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/rznnVn

Buying a bunch of items like this, don't suppose there are any vouchers or discount codes I can make use of are there?

Cheers!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh that seems with in reason, 8 is high but still with in range.


Thks Mick. Unfortunately the black pastel turned to a brownish color. coolant temp vary between 25 C and 30 C on this particular loop. Bottles came marked 11.06.2014 and I placed on the loop about April this year after full blitz treatment. White is solid no alteration in color but the black:


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Dear Mayhem rep....

I just purchased the Aurora 2 booster from performance PC.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-aurora-2-booster-silver.html

It says on the bottle that it isn't a long term use product.....but I was under the impression that aurora 2 was designed SPECIFICALLY to be a long term use.

I am confused here.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thks Mick. Unfortunately the black pastel turned to a brownish color. coolant temp vary between 25 C and 30 C on this particular loop. Bottles came marked 11.06.2014 and I placed on the loop about April this year after full blitz treatment. White is solid no alteration in color but the black:


Sorry to hear that. But on the bright side that looks like a nice Porter/Stout beer







.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Someone do a beer build!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Sorry to hear that. But on the bright side that looks like a nice Porter/Stout beer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


it does


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> Dear Mayhem rep....
> 
> I just purchased the Aurora 2 booster from performance PC.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-aurora-2-booster-silver.html
> 
> It says on the bottle that it isn't a long term use product.....but I was under the impression that aurora 2 was designed SPECIFICALLY to be a long term use.
> 
> I am confused here.


Hopefully its good because I put that stuff in.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> Dear Mayhem rep....
> 
> I just purchased the Aurora 2 booster from performance PC.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-aurora-2-booster-silver.html
> 
> It says on the bottle that it isn't a long term use product.....but I was under the impression that aurora 2 was designed SPECIFICALLY to be a long term use.
> 
> I am confused here.


Auroa is posted everywhere saying that it's for short term, such as a showcase or for show. But I'm pretty positive that's for the looks. After a month or two it will probably look like crap but perform the same.


----------



## Mayhem

@HexagonRabbit Aurora will always be advertised as a short term coolant to cover our ass how ever it does last much longer.

@Gabrielzm Hmmmm... a few questions we need answering if you can.

what rad is fitted?
what are you temps (in-line water temps)?
what hardware is on that loop?
what's your ambient temps?

Please Pm your full details (name, address, tel and amount of fluid bought) and we will see if we can sort this.

@Apothocary use OCN its a 5% discount code

Mick


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @HexagonRabbit Aurora will always be advertised as a short term coolant to cover our ass how ever it does last much longer.
> 
> @Gabrielzm Hmmmm... a few questions we need answering if you can.
> 
> what rad is fitted?
> what are you temps (in-line water temps)?
> what hardware is on that loop?
> what's your ambient temps?
> 
> Please Pm your full details (name, address, tel and amount of fluid bought) and we will see if we can sort this.
> 
> @Apothocary use OCN its a 5% discount code
> 
> Mick


Hey Mick.

a) rad of the white loop - HWlabs sr1 560
rads on the black loop - 240 xspc rx v3 and 480 mm xspc rx v3.
both loops tested ph around 8

b) temps in loop are usually 1-2 C above ambient at idle and max of 5 C above ambient at stress (hours of gaming). Since my ambient is around 25 C usually in line temp sensors on the black loop reach around 30-31 C no more than that.

c) black loop is made of ek acrylic 10/12 mm tubes, 2 d5 PWM on ek tops, bitspowers fittings and temp sensor caps besides the two rads and the two TXs (ek) blocks.

d) ambient usually around 25 C.

PM inbound to you and thanks for the help.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @HexagonRabbit Aurora will always be advertised as a short term coolant to cover our ass how ever it does last much longer.
> 
> @Gabrielzm Hmmmm... a few questions we need answering if you can.
> 
> what rad is fitted?
> what are you temps (in-line water temps)?
> what hardware is on that loop?
> what's your ambient temps?
> 
> Please Pm your full details (name, address, tel and amount of fluid bought) and we will see if we can sort this.
> 
> @Apothocary use OCN its a 5% discount code
> 
> Mick
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Mick.
> 
> a) rad of the white loop - HWlabs sr1 560
> rads on the black loop - 240 xspc rx v3 and 480 mm xspc rx v3.
> both loops tested ph around 8
> 
> b) temps in loop are usually 1-2 C above ambient at idle and max of 5 C above ambient at stress (hours of gaming). Since my ambient is around 25 C usually in line temp sensors on the black loop reach around 30-31 C no more than that.
> 
> c) black loop is made of ek acrylic 10/12 mm tubes, 2 d5 PWM on ek tops, bitspowers fittings and temp sensor caps besides the two rads and the two TXs (ek) blocks.
> 
> d) ambient usually around 25 C.
> 
> PM inbound to you and thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

Hmm oky we will replace every thing and chuck in a Blitz basic kit to boot and see how it goes.


----------



## SteezyTN

I use my Ice white (concentrate) and it's been good for about 2 months. I of course ran blitz pro, so hopefully it stays white for at least 2 years. When I get my new case with more rads, I'll be running blitz pro again and adding more white concentrate to my current. My temps can reach 40c at times (coolant temps).


----------



## Mayhem

you only need to run blitz pro once, guys, ladies don't waste your money running blitz pro more than once on a rad, you are throwing your money down the drain. You can use Blitz Basic / Part 2 more than once how ever part one is a one off thing.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> you only need to run blitz pro once, guys, ladies don't waste your money running blitz pro more than once on a rad, you are throwing your money down the drain. You can use Blitz Basic / Part 2 more than once how ever part one is a one off thing.


Well I ordered an additional 480 and 560 for my caselabs build and I need to use part 1 on those. Plus I needed more part 2 to flush the entire loop since it's bigger.


----------



## devilhead

So tomorrow will get my package with blitz/pastel, hope this time blitz will help, otherwise will need to use old-cheap method - vinegar+salt







)
Is not cheap to change every 9 months liquid, this time i have paid ~150$


----------



## DanBr

PH question...
Did not know I had to consider this at all
What in the fluid makes PH an issue?
What should a safe PH be?

Is there any PH issue in the Clear UV or is it only the colored fluids?
Thanks
Dan


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> So tomorrow will get my package with blitz/pastel, hope this time blitz will help, otherwise will need to use old-cheap method - vinegar+salt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Is not cheap to change every 9 months liquid, this time i have paid ~150$


Is it not once a year thats recommended?


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Is it not once a year thats recommended?


Hmm, i don't know about recommended use time, but it says more than 2 years








http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/products/normal-coolants/mayhems-oastel
will check my rads, maybe they cause my problem, will see...


----------



## Jaytie

So, I'm looking for a new coolant colour for my build. I'm thinkin about Pastel Red. But I want it darker, like blood red or however you wanna call it. Is mixing blue dye concentrat with pastel red a good way to make the red darker?

Another "question of taste" to you guys. Which colour would you choose for an ASrock X99M Fatality Board (red)?


----------



## Mayhem

Personally i wouldn't by any thing with the name Fatality written on it !!! lol


----------



## Jaytie

Yeah, I event wasn't a big fan of the red colour, but the number of choices in the X99 m-atx section isn't that big...
but thanks for your support ....









can somebody else tell me if blue dye is a good choice to make pastel red darker?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> PH question...
> Did not know I had to consider this at all
> What in the fluid makes PH an issue?
> What should a safe PH be?
> 
> Is there any PH issue in the Clear UV or is it only the colored fluids?
> Thanks
> Dan


Here's a quote from Mick from a few pages back that should help answer some of your questions, hopefully, he'll chime in with more details:

"Dyes are very much PH sensitive as are Coolants. Some dyes has a narrow PH range while other such as Blue dyes have a much wider PH range.

Red, Purple, Orange, Yellow all have a narrow PH Usage range as does UV Clear Blue how ever its not a dye just to confuse you more.

Blue, Deep Rep, UV Pink, UV yellow Orange, UV Laser Green all have a wide PH range.

This is why some people's coolants color or fluid fails and 99.999% of the time its simply they have not cleaned there rads."

Darlene


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Personally i wouldn't by any thing with the name Fatality written on it !!! lol


Would not want to tempt fatality would we, puts running shoes on. Lol


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here's a quote from Mick from a few pages back that should help answer some of your questions, hopefully, he'll chime in with more details:
> 
> "Dyes are very much PH sensitive as are Coolants. Some dyes has a narrow PH range while other such as Blue dyes have a much wider PH range.
> 
> Red, Purple, Orange, Yellow all have a narrow PH Usage range as does UV Clear Blue how ever its not a dye just to confuse you more.
> 
> Blue, Deep Rep, UV Pink, UV yellow Orange, UV Laser Green all have a wide PH range.
> 
> This is why some people's coolants color or fluid fails and 99.999% of the time its simply they have not cleaned there rads."
> 
> Darlene


Well I am confused.
Is a narrow PH range better than a wide one?
I would like the product that has the LEAST likely to fail
Perhaps just a plain product with the bio and anti- corrosion, no UV no Color
Dan


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Well I am confused.
> Is a narrow PH range better than a wide one?
> I would like the product that has the LEAST likely to fail
> Perhaps just a plain product with the bio and anti- corrosion, no UV no Color
> Dan


I think that a more narrow range means that it keeps the color better, as long as it stays in that range.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here's a quote from Mick from a few pages back that should help answer some of your questions, hopefully, he'll chime in with more details:
> 
> "Dyes are very much PH sensitive as are Coolants. Some dyes has a narrow PH range while other such as Blue dyes have a much wider PH range.
> 
> Red, Purple, Orange, Yellow all have a narrow PH Usage range as does UV Clear Blue how ever its not a dye just to confuse you more.
> 
> Blue, Deep Rep, UV Pink, UV yellow Orange, UV Laser Green all have a wide PH range.
> 
> This is why some people's coolants color or fluid fails and 99.999% of the time its simply they have not cleaned there rads."
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Well I am confused.
> Is a narrow PH range better than a wide one?
> I would like the product that has the LEAST likely to fail
> Perhaps just a plain product with the bio and anti- corrosion, no UV no Color
> Dan
Click to expand...

Some coolants / colors are just overall, notably higher maintenance, both in the initial build and ongoing, than others.

There are so many variables that can contribute to problems, and some guys are on the roadkill end of the spectrum, while others are on the Mack truck end of the spectrum.

X1 Clear is probably the most forgiving and foolproof, while having all the biocide and corrosion inhibitor your loop needs.

D.


----------



## Nornam

Just go the X1 route as Darlene says it has everything in it already, No need for any added extra's apart from some Mayhems Dye if you want, But again Mayhems dyes have been developed for use with all their fluids so going the X1 & or not Mayhems dye is the way to go in my opinion.

I've had some Mayhems X1 & Dye in a loop in my main PC for 4 years now & it's still looking pretty good, The soft tubing has obviously taken up some of the colour now after all these years but still not looking bad, all blocks are still clear & temps haven't altered over time either...

Nam....


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Some coolants / colors are just overall, notably higher maintenance, both in the initial build and ongoing, than others.
> 
> There are so many variables that can contribute to problems, and some guys are on the roadkill end of the spectrum, while others are on the Mack truck end of the spectrum.
> 
> X1 Clear is probably the most forgiving and foolproof, while having all the biocide and corrosion inhibitor your loop needs.
> 
> D.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Just go the X1 route as Darlene says it has everything in it already, No need for any added extra's apart from some Mayhems Dye if you want, But again Mayhems dyes have been developed for use with all their fluids so going the X1 & or not Mayhems dye is the way to go in my opinion.
> 
> I've had some Mayhems X1 & Dye in a loop in my main PC for 4 years now & it's still looking pretty good, The soft tubing has obviously taken up some of the colour now after all these years but still not looking bad, all blocks are still clear & temps haven't altered over time either...
> 
> Nam....


Double Thanks
Dan


----------



## stanneveld

X1 clear is magical stuff, just did another loop with it (i have to i bought 5 liters) when u sniff the stuff, u see all kinds of weird colors









Test running it now, just got my Aqua computer GPU block and back plate (after Feser ONE screwed up my EK block)
Wanted to know if i did not whammo the gpu by switching blocks, so running a test loop now.
Primochill advanced lrt, using a 2x140 rad now
But its gonna take a 2x180







and PETG tubes in the end.
And some part of the case will be... eh remodeled









Update ----

Runs just fine, vrm temps are way better then the EK block.
GPU temp after 3 hours of Unigine Heaven 41c and vrm 31c and 30c.
CPU 4.4Ghz al cores Linx 65/68c. (bit high i think but its my first 4970k might delit it when going to hard tube)
Water temp hits about 29c
Difference between water in a/out rad is about 0.6c
Flow is about 320 lieter/hour
(but my flow meter "Aquacomputer highflow" is making irritating klicking noises think it got some wear in it after 4 years)
Ordered a the newer MPS 400 flow sensor.

One weird thing is i there are bubbles in my res that dont seem to go away


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Mayhem

Got a package from the UK this morning. Some Euro Love?










TCO


----------



## cakedude501

Does anyone know if it is possible to create a gold version of the pastel using mayhems dyes and pastel coolant? I know there is the aurora hydra gold, but I would rather not try using that since I am not very sure on the compatibility requirements of it.

Edit: For some reason the g key on my laptop was not showing up for the word gold. gold, not old.


----------



## SimonOcean

@Mayhems guys:

I see that you have updated your website to include the glass tubing that you have been working on. And that you also have PETG tubing. Can you guy the OC.net community a run down of what it on offer and how to work with these materials... particularly glass. Thank you!


----------



## devilhead

So got some pictures after cleaning my build...
8 months old pastel and new:


After blitz part 2, tubing inside still left white, need to reassemble loop and clean all acrylic by hands


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd just get this, and have a snug fit. I doubt Mayhems will be dropping more sizes anytime soon, as they have been busting out new products left and right and quite frankly I see that continuing for a while. When you get a fire lit, you keep the flames lit.
> 
> -Z


So I think I'm going to get that size. I was going to get primochills version, but I'll settle for the Mayhems even if it's a tight fit.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> So got some pictures after cleaning my build...
> 8 months old pastel and new:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After blitz part 2, tubing inside still left white, need to reassemble loop and clean all acrylic by hands


That's not bad at all. Compare that to my Pastel after maybe 3-4 months. No blitz at all because it didn't exist yet and was not aware of the rad cleanliness issue at the time. Only flushed with water.


----------



## SteezyTN

I currently have 2 liters from concentrate, and I'm going to be adding new ice white to it to make 4 liters when I finish my Caselabs built. Hopefully it doesn't ruin it.


----------



## sinnedone

Quick question for anyone in the know.









I have x1 uv blue and want to make it a darker deeper blue. Should I get blue dye or maybe purple dye to achieve a darker deeper color?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Mayhem

Thanks













TCO


----------



## rabinzx

Has anyone heard anything from Mayhems about the new pastel series. Especially the sexy UV green one?
Any information on when it will be available?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Man those pics of old pastel are the only reason why I don't want to switch to a dye! It looks so cool though..


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That's not bad at all. Compare that to my Pastel after maybe 3-4 months. No blitz at all because it didn't exist yet and was not aware of the rad cleanliness issue at the time. Only flushed with water.


heh







but i have used both blitz parts, so thats why it hold 2x longer than yours


----------



## Fyrwulf

Purchased paint base today and I need to color match Mayhems to this pigment. If mixing Mayhems roughly corresponds to mixing paint, then what I need to know is how much Ocean Blue dye to add to 250ml of Pastel Orange concentrate.


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SimonOcean*
> 
> @Mayhems guys:
> 
> I see that you have updated your website to include the glass tubing that you have been working on. And that you also have PETG tubing. Can you guy the OC.net community a run down of what it on offer and how to work with these materials... particularly glass. Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> Im sorry i have just been informed by @Arizonian that i cannot post any pictures or information relating to work we are doing on our products even when they are not yet for sale. @Arizonian him self removed our posts. OCN are pretty much saying if we wish to post we must pay ... Guess whose going to lose out - it will be you lot.. I would like to apologise for OCN's short sightedness approach on this matter how ever it doesn't leave us much choice.
> 
> The OCN rules are
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ||Advertising/Promotion/Commercial Use ||
> 
> You ARE NOT allowed to use Overclock.net to:
> 
> •Advertise or promote products and/or services that you or someone you know has an "interest" in •This includes linking to a personal website
> •Display affiliate links of any kind
> •Copy content, images or any other Overclock.net assets (in part or in whole)
> •Recruit people for other websites/projects/jobs or any other reason
> •Directly or indirectly profit from your relationship with the site and the people you meet here, now or in the future
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> In theory this means :- we may not support you guys in any form really and we may not be able to supply you prizes in the future, as it can be construed as adversing. Obviously if OCN allow us to carry on we have no problem, after all we do not charge a cent, penny or franc for all the hours we have ecstatically
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> supported this forum and its users.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Hi, can you please loop me in on this communication via PM and provide a little more information about what you're trying to do? We can almost always find a middle ground which fits within our rules and allows companies to continue to contribute to the community in a mutually beneficial way. I'm afraid the @ mentions of my username in this thread were the first I'm learning about its existence or the moderator communications here, and I don't think digging through nearly 600 pages of content will be the best way for me to get up to speed on the situation quickly. Many thanks!


----------



## SimonOcean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipp*
> 
> Hi, can you please loop me in on this communication via PM and provide a little more information about what you're trying to do? We can almost always find a middle ground which fits within our rules and allows companies to continue to contribute to the community in a mutually beneficial way. I'm afraid the @ mentions of my username in this thread were the first I'm learning about its existence or the moderator communications here, and I don't think digging through nearly 600 pages of content will be the best way for me to get up to speed on the situation quickly. Many thanks!


Hi Chipp, thanks for getting in touch. I really did not want to cause any trouble.

I spoke to Michael earlier in the week on another topic (about radiator designs). He was very helpful on the topic I asked him about and while chatting he alluded to some testing being done on glass tubing. Since our conversation that glass tubing has now appeared on Mayhems website and I wanted to know how to work with it. The only reason that I posted here is that I thought my question would be of relevance and interesting to others in the OCN community. But as far as I am concerned it is just as easy to pick up the phone and speak to Michael again to ask about working with glass. Currently waiting for my CaseLabs case to arrive from the factory to where I live in Europe so I am quite a few weeks away needing the information. No rush. So no need for me to do that over the forum. I'll just speak to them.

Heck: I can even do a summary for OCN forum members if that gets round the rules after speaking with the Mayhems guys!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimonOcean*
> 
> Hi Chipp, thanks for getting in touch. I really did not want to cause any trouble.
> 
> I spoke to Michael earlier in the week on another topic (about radiator designs). He was very helpful on the topic I asked him about and while chatting he alluded to some testing being done on glass tubing. Since our conversation that glass tubing has now appeared on Mayhems website and I wanted to know how to work with it. The only reason that I posted here is that I thought my question would be of relevance and interesting to others in the OCN community. But as far as I am concerned it is just as easy to pick up the phone and speak to Michael again to ask about working with glass. Currently waiting for my CaseLabs case to arrive from the factory to where I live in Europe so I am quite a few weeks away needing the information. No rush. So no need for me to do that over the forum. I'll just speak to them.
> 
> Heck: I can even do a summary for OCN forum members if that gets round the rules after speaking with the Mayhems guys!


YOu need to Private Message Him.

TCO


----------



## SimonOcean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> YOu need to Private Message Him.
> 
> TCO


ok done.


----------



## Mayhem

ive pmed. explained our situation and we will see were it goes from here.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> ive pmed. explained our situation and we will see were it goes from here.


Hope all goes well. OCN is the only place these days I constantly visit for learning about computer hardware and cooling. Even though I'll never have the patience to make cool builds with glass/acrylic tubing and fancy coolants, I really enjoy coming to threads like this to see what new stuff is coming out. It feels like being a kid in a candy store.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Just my two cents, but I don't see how the rules apply in this case. People asking questions of Mike are already locked into buying. Dunno why anyone would buy anything else, anyway.


----------



## jlakai

Carribean Blue Pastel using white pastel, deep blue, emerald green and ocean blue dyes.


----------



## cakedude501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Carribean Blue Pastel using white pastel, deep blue, emerald green and ocean blue dyes.


I want it. Now.


----------



## savage1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> 
> 
> What spray paint did you use on the fans if you dont mind my asking?


Sorry mate just noticed this.. I used Fiddly Bits yellow







cheap as hell from Bunnings here in Australia, not sure about where you are. Here's a couple of pics of the finished product after the original cooler blew up:






www.facebook.com/OCDesktops for more info


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savage1987*
> 
> Sorry mate just noticed this.. I used Fiddly Bits yellow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cheap as hell from Bunnings here in Australia, not sure about where you are. Here's a couple of pics of the finished product after the original cooler blew up:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.facebook.com/OCDesktops for more info


Nice Camera Shots









TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Been meaning to ask this also.

To Z, Mayhem, Or whoever can answer about the Aurora.

What Do I remove out of the Supremacy Evo specifically in order to not prevent the particle flow?

TCO


----------



## Fyrwulf

Which Aurora? The new stuff apparently doesn't have that problem.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Which Aurora? The new stuff apparently doesn't have that problem.




TCO


----------



## Mayhem

you dont need to it will work fine


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> you dont need to it will work fine


Really???? I can just leave the Evo fully assembled? Epic!

TCO


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> you dont need to it will work fine


I have the older Aurora 2 (said "improved formula" or something like that in a little bubble on the bottle), does this still apply for that batch, or is that just with the newest/latest stuff?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Been meaning to ask this also.
> 
> To Z, Mayhem, Or whoever can answer about the Aurora.
> 
> What Do I remove out of the Supremacy Evo specifically in order to not prevent the particle flow?
> 
> TCO


Well, I was about to say everything, but then comes long mick with this. vvv

-Z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> you dont need to it will work fine


Has science gone too far?

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> you dont need to it will work fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the older Aurora 2 (said "improved formula" or something like that in a little bubble on the bottle), does this still apply for that batch, or is that just with the newest/latest stuff?
Click to expand...

I'd imagine only the newest stuff. There were still some people having some issues with the Evo when A2 dropped.

-Z


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> *Well, I was about to say everything, but then comes long mick* with this. vvv
> 
> -Z


So you are rolling with mick on this one?

TCO


----------



## 1911Savage

Ran into a slight problem today:



I ordered 3 bottles of Pastel UV Lime Yellow concentrate from Performance PCs. Two of them were like the one on the right, the correct color, but the one on the left seems to be Pastel Sunset Yellow or something even though it is labeled UV Lime Yellow. As it turned out I didn't need the third bottle anyway so it worked out OK:


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1911Savage*
> 
> Ran into a slight problem today:
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered 3 bottles of Pastel UV Lime Yellow concentrate from Performance PCs. Two of them were like the one on the right, the correct color, but the one on the left seems to be Pastel Sunset Yellow or something even though it is labeled UV Lime Yellow. As it turned out I didn't need the third bottle anyway so it worked out OK:


SMA8









Where is the second port for the second pump? I only see one.


----------



## 1911Savage

@SteezyTN

Both of the pump/res combos come out the front (of course) and both of them return through the back side input port.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> *Well, I was about to say everything, but then comes long mick* with this. vvv
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> So you are rolling with mick on this one?
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Well Mick _*does*_ develop and manufacture the fluid, so I'm going to safely assume he knows worlds more about the fluid than I do. I just regurgitate what information I've confirmed with some added logic about the physics behind why what happens happens. I know the A2 particles had issues with both the insert & injection plate with the Evo, but I also know they've pretty much been enhancing Aurora with almost every batch since then. Micks advice on coolants > my advice on coolants any day. Pastel and Aurora are both nanofluids, and as such will function under the exact same physics. Pastel works with the Evo, so if they can get particle size/shape, coolant viscosity, surface tension, and particle buoyancy right Aurora could work all the same. Given Micks confidence on the manner it sounds like they've done just that.

-Z


----------



## VSG

Looks like this will be the new place for Mayhems support- http://www.mayhems.net/

Edit: Thanks for proving my point by censoring this post and deleting others without letting anyone know, B&B


----------



## Mayhem

@1911Savage PM me or mail me with info on you bottle and ill replace it


----------



## THERIDDLER

Time to gwt a couple colors to test out these bad boys, and color schemes.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh it works with the evo, been refining A2 right down and switched from stringed carriers to none stringed carriers hence less issues and better flow path. we've been testing aurora out on the new Thermaltake block which has even finer channels than most and again not hand any issues. You can remove the plate if you wish and it will speed up the flow path but that's down to user taste. Any thing since 25/5/15 should be fine along the a2 line.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh it works with the evo, been refining A2 right down and switched from stringed carriers to none stringed carriers hence less issues and better flow path. we've been testing aurora out on the new Thermaltake block which has even finer channels than most and again not hand any issues. You can remove the plate if you wish and it will speed up the flow path but that's down to user taste. Any thing since 25/5/15 should be fine along the a2 line.


Thanks Mike - but how do we recognise old stock versus new stock of the pastels and auroras?

Mark


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Time to gwt a couple colors to test out these bad boys, and color schemes.


Is those both or made?


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Is those both or made?


I don't understand


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> I don't understand


Did you buy them somewhere or did you make it?


----------



## VSG

Look up Skeeper on Facebook


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Did you buy them somewhere or did you make it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Look up Skeeper on Facebook


Yes, skeeper was the one that made them for me. So far these are yet only two white ones. But, they seem to be a big hit so I can see him making more in the future


----------



## Mayhem

The date of manufacturer is right next to the bar code, if not dated then its before what i stated above.


----------



## dilster97

How orange is the pastel orange?

Is it orangery orange or like light orange?

Serious business by the way.


----------



## gdubc

Like this:












I will use mine for about 6-8 months then probably blitz 2 it and add fresh new direct from Mayhems. It was too hard to pass up at microcenter at the time and I really only planned on using it maybe a year and switching to fresh anyhow, but life problems keep me from getting anything done with it still. Cant wait to see it going...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Closest thing to Mayhems that MC carries near me is the EK Pastel coolants


----------



## Seel

How's the Mayhems Ultra Clear tubing compared to Primochill Advanced LRT? Or is it pretty much the same stuff?
Thinking about buying some.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seel*
> 
> How's the Mayhems Ultra Clear tubing compared to Primochill Advanced LRT? Or is it pretty much the same stuff?
> Thinking about buying some.


Better IMO. Very flexible, inexpensive, and easy to work with, wouldn't buy any other tubing these days.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well Mick _*does*_ develop and manufacture the fluid, so I'm going to safely assume he knows worlds more about the fluid than I do. I just regurgitate what information I've confirmed with some added logic about the physics behind why what happens happens. I know the A2 particles had issues with both the insert & injection plate with the Evo, but I also know they've pretty much been enhancing Aurora with almost every batch since then. Micks advice on coolants > my advice on coolants any day. Pastel and Aurora are both nanofluids, and as such will function under the exact same physics. Pastel works with the Evo, so if they can get particle size/shape, coolant viscosity, surface tension, and particle buoyancy right Aurora could work all the same. Given Micks confidence on the manner it sounds like they've done just that.
> 
> -Z


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh it works with the evo, been refining A2 right down and switched from stringed carriers to none stringed carriers hence less issues and better flow path. we've been testing aurora out on the new Thermaltake block which has even finer channels than most and again not hand any issues. You can remove the plate if you wish and it will speed up the flow path but that's down to user taste. Any thing since 25/5/15 should be fine along the a2 line.


+ Rep to both of you! I appreciate it Z and Mick!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> How orange is the pastel orange?
> 
> Is it orangery orange or like light orange?
> 
> Serious business by the way.


It is very orange.






TCO


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> + Rep to both of you! I appreciate it Z and Mick!
> It is very orange.
> TCO


That is very orange.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> That is very orange.


Just letting you know.



I've used Blueberry since then









Wonderfull colours.

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

I love that blueberry color, especially the semi darker shade. Too bad I don't have that color theme. I'm going to stick to my lovely Ice White


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

The orange in that video looks red. Almost like a light colored tomato soup. Pretty awful looking, especially with the green :/ The blue/green looks damn amazing, like going from 6/10 to 10/10 with the looks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> The orange in that video looks red. Almost like a light colored tomato soup. Pretty awful looking, especially with the green :/ The blue/green looks damn amazing, like going from 6/10 to 10/10 with the looks.


Now I can say that the Pastel Orange was mixing with some of the Flux ( I think) from my rads. I didn't flush them very good! No fault of Mayhems.

This is in my Brothers.




TCO


----------



## Rahldrac

I see you have tested the new Aurora on TT rads with no big issues. Which means that one might be able to use Aurora in magicool slim radiators?
I really want to use Aurora but I've hard that you are suppose to have the simplest setup possible? I guess 4 rads, 2 GPUs and cpu is a bit much?


----------



## Seel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Better IMO. Very flexible, inexpensive, and easy to work with, wouldn't buy any other tubing these days.


Sounds good.
I guess it's too early to tell if there are any plasticizer issues with this one?


----------



## bjyyyyyd

Hi guys,
I've got a problem with my pastel red turning dark red. and from what I've read earlier in this tread it is because of a reaction with copper. One of my rads was reused from an old system where i ran distilled + mayhems biocide, so i probably didn't flush it well enough. Also they are alphacool rads. So I'm obviously going to try doing a better job this time, but I'm also considering changing to an x1 blood red.

My question is, is this problem only with the pastel or can i get similar problems with the x1 for example?

Thanks


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjyyyyyd*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I've got a problem with my pastel red turning dark red. and from what I've read earlier in this tread it is because of a reaction with copper. One of my rads was reused from an old system where i ran distilled + mayhems biocide, so i probably didn't flush it well enough. Also they are alphacool rads. So I'm obviously going to try doing a better job this time, but I'm also considering changing to an x1 blood red.
> 
> My question is, is this problem only with the pastel or can i get similar problems with the x1 for example?
> 
> Thanks


did you blitz your alphacool rads http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-blitz-pro.html


----------



## emsj86

I have blue pastel now. With my new build I will need more than a liter is my guess. I have dark blue mayhems dye and white pastel concentrate. I was going to add the dye until it matches the blue pastel. Is there anything wrong with doing that or will it cause problems. I think it won't but I rather ask and be safe


----------



## Anateus

So I just want to confirm it, is Aurora 2 as stable as Pastel now? This will make an impact on the kind of tubing I will be buying, hence the question. It would be used with two small rads and two blocks.


----------



## wnipper

Anyone have any pictures of their rigs with Aurora2 Blue? Building a system for my girl and she likes it, but I'd like to see some more pictures to make sure it's what she wants.


----------



## bjyyyyyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> did you blitz your alphacool rads http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-blitz-pro.html


No, i didn't do that unfortunately. I am planning to do that now though








But my main question is if this problem is limited to the pastel coolant?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I see you have tested the new Aurora on TT rads with no big issues. Which means that one might be able to use Aurora in magicool slim radiators?
> I really want to use Aurora but I've hard that you are suppose to have the simplest setup possible? I guess 4 rads, 2 GPUs and cpu is a bit much?


4 rads may be a bit much.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Better IMO. Very flexible, inexpensive, and easy to work with, wouldn't buy any other tubing these days.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds good.
> I guess it's too early to tell if there are any plasticizer issues with this one?
Click to expand...

DEHP plasticizers are what cause issues, and Mayhems tubing is DEHP free.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjyyyyyd*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I've got a problem with my pastel red turning dark red. and from what I've read earlier in this tread it is because of a reaction with copper. One of my rads was reused from an old system where i ran distilled + mayhems biocide, so i probably didn't flush it well enough. Also they are alphacool rads. So I'm obviously going to try doing a better job this time, but I'm also considering changing to an x1 blood red.
> 
> My question is, is this problem only with the pastel or can i get similar problems with the x1 for example?
> 
> Thanks


Flux in your rads is killing the fluid. As previously stated, Blitz your radiators to strip flux from the solder joints, and prevent that from happening. X1 red will brown out all the same if you have flux in the loop.

-Z


----------



## Domler

Hey guys. I figured this would be the place to ask. What would happen if I mix aurora 2 with uv dye? And can you mix silver booster with pastel?


----------



## sinnedone

@Mayhem or anyone else in the know. (sorry yet another aurora 2 question)

This is a picture of my current system and I was thinking of going with aurora2 in the blue color. Will I have problems running it in this rig? how long will the effect last in it?



Runs are as follows. Straight from pump top into a monsoon 90 to another 90 going into a front vertically mounted monsta 280. Straight out of the monstat to a 90 degree fitting into top 30mm alphacool 280mm. 2 90 degree fittings out of the top radiator into 2 more 90 degree fittings into rear 120mm alphacool slim rad. Then its almost straight run into the motherboard block where it goes in and out of the ek supremacy using 2 90 degree fittings. Then its into both graphics card using ek blocks in serial. Out of the last graphics card is a 90 degree fitting into a bottom alphacool 45mm 140mm rad. Out the rad into a flow meter followed by 2 90 degree fittings into the return of the reservoir.

Should I even bother trying, or will I just end up having to flush it and start over if I go with the Aurora 2?

Any help from those in the know would be appreciated as well as what mayhems himself says.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Hey guys. I figured this would be the place to ask. What would happen if I mix aurora 2 with uv dye? And can you mix silver booster with pastel?


1: You'd get UV Aurora, probably. Aurora works by reflecting light, UV works by absorbing light. Mixing them together makes them fight eachother for effect. There shouldn't be any performance or reliability issues, but it's going to be a major PITA to get a proper effect with both of em. Feel free to play with it, no major dangers of it.

2: Yes you can, Mick should be able to give you the proper ratios as I don't recall them atm. It'll look something like this:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> @Mayhem or anyone else in the know. (sorry yet another aurora 2 question)
> 
> This is a picture of my current system and I was thinking of going with aurora2 in the blue color. Will I have problems running it in this rig? how long will the effect last in it?
> 
> 
> 
> Runs are as follows. Straight from pump top into a monsoon 90 to another 90 going into a front vertically mounted monsta 280. Straight out of the monstat to a 90 degree fitting into top 30mm alphacool 280mm. 2 90 degree fittings out of the top radiator into 2 more 90 degree fittings into rear 120mm alphacool slim rad. Then its almost straight run into the motherboard block where it goes in and out of the ek supremacy using 2 90 degree fittings. Then its into both graphics card using ek blocks in serial. Out of the last graphics card is a 90 degree fitting into a bottom alphacool 45mm 140mm rad. Out the rad into a flow meter followed by 2 90 degree fittings into the return of the reservoir.
> 
> Should I even bother trying, or will I just end up having to flush it and start over if I go with the Aurora 2?
> 
> Any help from those in the know would be appreciated as well as what mayhems himself says.


That's probably a bit much for Aurora.

-Z


----------



## DarthBaggins

Aurora wouldn't work too well with that loop, the mobo blocks can be restrictive last I remember


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Aurora wouldn't work too well with that loop, the mobo blocks can be restrictive last I remember


MOBO blocks are high flow low restriction there days. At least EK ones.


----------



## 7akata

Out of curiosity:

Since the Galaxy Purple A2 is now gone, for the same effect with the new and improved A2 formula, it would be Silver A2 + purple dye, correct? Thanks!

Bonus: I ran Galaxy Purple A2 on 2xEK480's w/ 2 GPU blocks, 1 full cover MB block, res and dual inline D5's with no issues. Worked out great.

Edit: What new formula combo would I use to get the old Aurora Ring Tail Gold effect?


----------



## Apothocary

@Mayhem Tried to check out a few times with "OCN" as the discount code but it says no such discount code. Any thoughts? Thanks!


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apothocary*
> 
> @Mayhem Tried to check out a few times with "OCN" as the discount code but it says no such discount code. Any thoughts? Thanks!


Given the recent dustup I think there's not much chance of Mike doing anything special for OCN.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> That's probably a bit much for Aurora.
> 
> -Z


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Aurora wouldn't work too well with that loop, the mobo blocks can be restrictive last I remember


Thank you both for your input.


----------



## Mayhem

The OCN code has been disabled there will be no more offers relating to any other site except our own from now on.

All Mayhems support will now be hosted on our own forum.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The OCN code has been disabled there will be no more offers relating to any other site except our own from now on.
> 
> All Mayhems support will now be hosted on our own forum.


So this goes from a offical group to a member group then?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The OCN code has been disabled there will be no more offers relating to any other site except our own from now on.
> 
> All Mayhems support will now be hosted on our own forum.


Aww man. There is no way to get listed here: http://www.overclock.net/f/212/hardware-vendors or here: http://www.overclock.net/f/17873/manufacturer-forums or is it really expensive?


----------



## Mayhem

Its never been official because the mods didn't allow it to be :/ Politics and greed the down fall of many.

The cost for me to have my own forum on my own server for life that we have full control over - £120 (why pay more).


----------



## szeged

I dont blame you at all.


----------



## VSG

Yeah this is not a surprise at all


----------



## szeged

honestly im surprised more people arent saying screw that to the ridiculous fees and rules.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> honestly im surprised more people arent saying screw that to the ridiculous fees and rules.


I think its just cuz the sheer mass of this site's community. Seems like the first and last place alot of people will go for computer hobbist info.
just the sheer traffic and all..

Kudos to mayhems for fighting the power though. Staying above their bullspit politics like that, fantastic!


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its never been official because the mods didn't allow it to be :/ Politics and greed the down fall of many.
> 
> The cost for me to have my own forum on my own server for life that we have full control over - £120 (why pay more).


& Don't blame you at all Mick







....... Can't believe how OCN are going about this... You being probably the most Active, Helpful Manufacturer that supported the Forum members like no other.... Sure does show some very short-sightedness on OCN's part that's for sure.....

I've joined up to your forum now & hope many many others will also







....

Nam.....


----------



## szeged

all about that $$$, they dont care if the members got helped as long as their bank accounts did.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> all about that $$$, they dont care if the members got helped as long as their bank accounts did.


true story.

I wonder if they made corsair pay to do their ddr4 Q&A? could be a precedence if they didn't

either way, it'd be great if there was a less money hungry site out there that didn't blow. I got banned from linus and overclockers because they are too big of ******ed back country poop eaters to tell the difference between a question and a troll... overclockers banned me and they are linked with linus.

xtremesystems might be good, but no clubs and I think its slowly dying cuz all the old school OCers who used to be on there have for them most part retired


----------



## szeged

i dont think theres anywhere as active as ocn right now. unfortunately we have the problems were talking about now when this is the go to place.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> & Don't blame you at all Mick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....... Can't believe how OCN are going about this... You being probably the most Active, Helpful Manufacturer that supported the Forum members like no other.... Sure does show some very short-sightedness on OCN's part that's for sure.....
> 
> I've joined up to your forum now & hope many many others will also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> Nam.....


I agree Nan. Personally I never felt like Mick was trying to sell anything here. This was a genuine support forum and a very good one, with a lot of traffic. OCN need to be more sensible to who helps build this community.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

welcome to monopoly

yeah ocn seems like corporate sludge now...

Like when people actually do informative articles and then they get axed or harrassed by mods.. In reference to z97 OCF guide with splave.. wow that was appalling...

didn't you have a fan comparison guide somewhere szeged? I mean.. come on...


----------



## Domler

@Mayhemjust tell me where to go.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @Mayhemjust tell me where to go.


http://www.mayhems.net/ucp.php?mode=register


----------



## Domler

@M3TAl
Thanks.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> http://www.mayhems.net/ucp.php?mode=register


Just signed up over there. Guess I'll be spending more time AWAY from OCN.

I've only been around here a few years, but it seems to me like this forum is going downhill fast and the people running the site really do not care!

They are running off the best reviewers, and contributors to the forum.


----------



## Domler

Ditto


----------



## SteezyTN

Is anyone having any issues with the Primochill flex tubing and mayhems pastels? I'm running Pastel Ice white, and I'm worried it was give plasticizers or such


----------



## kizwan

Primochill Advanced LRT tubing don't have plasticizer problem. Don't worry.


----------



## Anoxy

Can anyone recommend the most reasonable place to buy Mayhems X1 that will ship to Japan? Or if anyone knows of a domestic business that would also be cool.


----------



## emsj86

Question I've been wondering. Ek has pastel which is basically mayhems or it is mayhems. But is there translucent fluid mayhems x1 or no


----------



## OGBeandip

Ive got some questions about mixing a color up.

Im trying to get a color similar to the Geforce LED on the side of the Nvidia blower coolers (the Titan X one if you want to be specific).

What colors would you recommend mixing? I want to use the Pastel series of coolants.

And I need enough to fill up 2 fairly large loops, any quantity recommendations?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Question I've been wondering. Ek has pastel which is basically mayhems or it is mayhems. But is there translucent fluid mayhems x1 or no


EK Pastel line is a partnership with Mayhems but the non-pastel isn't


----------



## TheTou

Hi guys, I'm running Mayhems Pastel Ice White in my loop and my PC is located inside a cabinet. Now yesterday I forgot to open the front door and started playing. I got my aquaero configured to shutdown the computer when the water reaches 47°C but after the firmware update the settings were deleted. So after playing I noticed the water temperature climbed up to around 59°C and immediatly opened the cabinet front door. Do I have something to worry about after it reached this high temperature? Normally it gets to max. 40°C. I also immediatly updated my aquaero alarm settings after that so hopefully this can't happen again


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheTou*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm running Mayhems Pastel Ice White in my loop and my PC is located inside a cabinet. Now yesterday I forgot to open the front door and started playing. I got my aquaero configured to shutdown the computer when the water reaches 47°C but after the firmware update the settings were deleted. So after playing I noticed the water temperature climbed up to around 59°C and immediatly opened the cabinet front door. Do I have something to worry about after it reached this high temperature? Normally it gets to max. 40°C. I also immediatly updated my aquaero alarm settings after that so hopefully this can't happen again


I think some parts can have problems if the water temprature reaches 60 C, but normally that should not be a problem.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I agree Nan. Personally I never felt like Mick was trying to sell anything here. This was a genuine support forum and a very good one, with a lot of traffic. OCN need to be more sensible to who helps build this community.


This. Think about how many times on here that someone didn't clean their loop good enough or flush properly and their fluid went wacky. Mick never leaves these people on their own, he always goes the extra mile to make sure they are happy, even at his own loss if need be.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> This. Think about how many times on here that someone didn't clean their loop good enough or flush properly and their fluid went wacky. Mick never leaves these people on their own, he always goes the extra mile to make sure they are happy, even at his own loss if need be.


As someone who came into the thread late, after mick left. Going back and reading how he handled things makes me angry that the staff pushed him out. Its rare a manufacturer cares that much about the community and is that active in their support forums.


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> As someone who came into the thread late, after mick left. Going back and reading how he handled things makes me angry that the staff pushed him out. Its rare a manufacturer cares that much about the community and is that active in their support forums.


100% agree. As a long time lurker, the amount of times I've seen him jump through hoops to help people, and a lot of times ship things out internationally for free to help people, was insane. Real shame politics got in the way here. Mick was [and still is, just not on this forum] in it for the passion, not the money.

Edit: Grammar


----------



## SteezyTN

Micks an awesom guy. I've had numerous questions, and he always gives great answers. I've also seen it a dozen times where people's pH is out of wack and how their pastel or other items have changed colors, and he sends them a replacement free of charge (even imternationally). Mick has all my support. I'll continue to buy Mayhems coolant for every build I have.


----------



## Jonas75

I've gone from completely clueless on watercooling to, somwhat, good at it in less then a year.
I don't use any other addatives(spelling?) now, it's mayhem all the way.
I do use batterywater as the basis, but here the batterywater is atleast as good as regular DI, if not better.
Also found out that my res (phobya balancer 150) has some bad plating on it as it reacted with the mayhems kill coil.
Now my loop runs on Batterywater and X1 clear. Tubes and fluids are as clear as when I filled the loop.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonas75*
> 
> I've gone from completely clueless on watercooling to, somwhat, good at it in less then a year.
> I don't use any other addatives(spelling?) now, it's mayhem all the way.
> I do use batterywater as the basis, but here the batterywater is atleast as good as regular DI, if not better.
> Also found out that my res (phobya balancer 150) has some bad plating on it as it reacted with the mayhems kill coil.
> Now my loop runs on Batterywater and X1 clear. Tubes and fluids are as clear as when I filled the loop.


Same here. I got into it around January and have learned so much in 8 months. Threads like these were monumental in helping learn.


----------



## Domler

Agreeded. Just hop over to mayhems.net. Mike's new home.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Agreeded. Just hop over to mayhems.net. Mike's new home.


Already did. I usually dont like using multiple forums at once. But for Mayhem. ill do it any day.


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Agreeded. Just hop over to mayhems.net. Mike's new home.


Thanks for the link


----------



## Jonas75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Same here. I got into it around January and have learned so much in 8 months. Threads like these were monumental in helping learn.


Started collecting parts around oktober 2014 IIRC, bought the best parts I could afford over 3-4 months (alot of them on sale, saved alot by buying this way actually).
During this period I did a TON of research on parts etc. I watched endless youtube videos, read endless forumposts and so on.

And then when the loop was "done" (they are never done), I started to read up on overclocking.
Took the long way with the OC, trial and error, slowly raising voltage, multiplier etc.
It was very educational and I'm grateful that I didn't just get a bunch of settings from someone as all IC's are different and I would have learned nothing.

Same thing with my 290X that I added to the loop about 2 weeks ago, I took the long road clocking that too.
I don't use it overclocked normally as the 290X is enough for a 24" 60hz IPS panel as is.

Sorry about all the OT.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Not sure if I should even post in this wasteland but I have a color question to ask you all:

I've got a red/black enthoo primo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854013&cm_re=enthoo_primo-_-11-854-013-_-Product
and my new mobo is black/yellow: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157534&cm_re=x99_oc_formula-_-13-157-534-_-Product

should I try a pastel color out and if so, what one? red to go with the chassis? yellow to balance the colors so red isn't overpowering? maybe even orange to throw a third color into the mix?


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Not sure if I should even post in this wasteland but I have a color question to ask you all:
> 
> I've got a red/black enthoo primo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854013&cm_re=enthoo_primo-_-11-854-013-_-Product
> and my new mobo is black/yellow: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157534&cm_re=x99_oc_formula-_-13-157-534-_-Product
> 
> should I try a pastel color out and if so, what one? red to go with the chassis? yellow to balance the colors so red isn't overpowering? maybe even orange to throw a third color into the mix?


I think orange would be cool. The middle ground between red and yellow.

If you do yellow or red then i think the build would look mismatched or one color would be overpowering. Introducing a third color could balance it out.


----------



## Anoxy

Is it safe to mix X1 and pastel?


----------



## szeged

sure feels empty in here without Mick...if only ocn didnt push every good source of info away unless they pay them to post...


----------



## PerfectTekniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is it safe to mix X1 and pastel?


That's gonna cost ya....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> sure feels empty in here without Mick...if only ocn didnt push every good source of info away unless they pay them to post...


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> sure feels empty in here without Mick...if only ocn didnt push every good source of info away unless they pay them to post...


Yup

Shame such great support was pushed away.


----------



## VSG

Yup, clearly nothing has changed at all in this place!


----------



## szeged

gotta keep the bank accounts nice and fat, who cares if the forums suffer.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Even before, other users would also chime in but it seems like they've all unsubscribed from this thread or don't bother to check it


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I check it briefly.

TCO


----------



## tipes

I cant believe that ocn have been so draconian on rule enforcement that they have forced Mayhems support elsewhere - ocn's loss as I see it.
RIP mayhems as far as OCN goes.

Mark


----------



## theonedub

My first and only experience with Mick was a complete joke- everyone preaches his great support but I never saw it. I've directed everyone I know looking for coolant options to run distilled over his product. The only thing this stuff has going for it is that it looks OK, that is before it ultimately shifts colors and you have to toss it out. My rating? *0/10*.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> My first and only experience with Mick was a complete joke- everyone preaches his great support but I never saw it. I've directed everyone I know looking for coolant options to run distilled over his product. The only thing this stuff has going for it is that it looks OK, that is before it ultimately shifts colors and you have to toss it out. My rating? *0/10*.


What happened in your experience with mick?

And are you using flexible tube? Because it could be plasticizer leaking which changes the coolants color.


----------



## DarthBaggins

His bad experience was due to not fully flushing his loop properly and his pastel changed color which Mick pointed out where the info was, which I know it's stated on his site and several times in the thread of the Pastel's being ph sensitive


----------



## Anateus

Cant say anything good or bad about those guys (except for their bad english - how can you run a business and not know a difference between their/they're/there? Especially when they are from UK..).
Anyway, I will be getting some of their coolants next month. We will see.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Always recommend running their blitz kit and doing a pH test prior to using their fluids (run distilled for 24hrs +/- then test)


----------



## BrjSan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> I cant believe that ocn have been so draconian on rule enforcement that they have forced Mayhems support elsewhere - ocn's loss as I see it.
> RIP mayhems as far as OCN goes.
> 
> Mark


Did not get it, can you explain please?

Got it, just went back through the posts. Well that explains why _Mayhems_ was away, i just knew the issue







and it really makes me sad.

peace


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> His bad experience was due to not fully flushing his loop properly and his pastel changed color which Mick pointed out where the info was, which I know it's stated on his site and several times in the thread of the Pastel's being ph sensitive


I followed the directions that came with the product, actually. He linked me to all sorts of articles he pulled from a Google search about pH, but couldn't show me what step in his own instructions required me to check pH. Had the instructions said check for neutral pH, I would've done so, however the literature did not say anything other than flushing with DI or Ultra Pure- I flushed twice with DI. The website still does not mention verifying pH (I only gave it a quick look). Maybe he's updated other instructions now, but I still have the bottle of Pastels that has absolutely no mention of pH on it. So, from my perspective, I used a product and followed the included directions from the manufacturer, but was still deemed at fault when the product failed to perform and received no support. *For that I stand by my 0/10 rating.* That doesn't even get into his awful attitude and condescending demeanor- I won't miss him


----------



## stanneveld

Hmz maby its me but i think the topic is "mayhem's users club" and not "mayhem's support"
And for u @theonedub i think the guy was kinda frustrated of all this ocn stuff, and then you started complaining i think je just was already "annoyed"
Anyways i think the pastel is bio degradable so it will kill itself after a while and loose its colour, the older the bottle is you buy the faster it will go Boo Boo.
I stopped using colours in my loops and just use Clear X1 from mayhems, and coloured tubes. since i dont have to care about corrosion and biocides mixing.
And it smells and tastes great. kind alike LSD.

If you realy need a colour thats stay's for over 6 years use Feser ONE








Trust me this stuff is NOT biodegradable, but it only degrades your blocks








It smells like nothing, and it tastes TERRIBLE.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> *For that I stand by my 0/10 rating.* That doesn't even get into his awful attitude and condescending demeanor- I won't miss him


+99999 for this


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> +99999 for this


I feel this is rather harsh on Mick and Mayhems. In my experience they have always bent over backwards to help and support their customers if they have problems. As for being condescending - certainly not to my knowledge, and anyway there is a lot of stress in running a business - so surely everyone is entitled to have a bad day or two.

The experience of the poster is the exception rather than the rule imho, but in all cases you are entitled to your opinion.

Mark


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I followed the directions that came with the product, actually. He linked me to all sorts of articles he pulled from a Google search about pH, but couldn't show me what step in his own instructions required me to check pH. Had the instructions said check for neutral pH, I would've done so, however the literature did not say anything other than flushing with DI or Ultra Pure- I flushed twice with DI. The website still does not mention verifying pH (I only gave it a quick look). Maybe he's updated other instructions now, but I still have the bottle of Pastels that has absolutely no mention of pH on it. So, from my perspective, I used a product and followed the included directions from the manufacturer, but was still deemed at fault when the product failed to perform and received no support. *For that I stand by my 0/10 rating.* That doesn't even get into his awful attitude and condescending demeanor- I won't miss him


I see your point. IMO there needs to be a bit more hand-holding for noobies (like me) because if you check on the website for example, it states:

"Before Using Mayhems Pastel Range the system must be clean and have *no chemicals* of any kind left in the loop."

Now, to my understanding, the color distortion is caused by the coolant reacting with the leftover flux from the manufacturing process of radiators. I don't know a whole lot about metal and whatnot but from Wikipedia, it states that flux "is a *chemical* cleaning agent, flowing agent, or purifying agent." So in a way, it does state it indirectly but for someone new to these types of coolants, that's a BIG leap they would have to make to know this.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know because of issues of colors being sensitive to flux or other residues (especially the reds and yellows) the Pastels are extremely sensitive. I myself did extensive research even before using their dyes in a distilled loop to ensure I'd be a happy camper, which I was in the end. I've used Pastel in one loop to no issue, but I'm ultra paranoid about the chance of growth or other issues arising that I tend to over do things (I flushed my rads for 12-24hrs with a vinegar/distilled mix, then 2 hours straight distilled, then 24hrs with a baking soda/distilled mix, then another 8hours with distilled, put together the loop and ran distilled and checked pH with a set of strip I got from a pool chemical retailer near me). All the equipment to watercool is definitely not the most inexpensive stuff out there which is why I'm over-cautious on this.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know because of issues of colors being sensitive to flux or other residues (especially the reds and yellows) the Pastels are extremely sensitive. I myself did extensive research even before using their dyes in a distilled loop to ensure I'd be a happy camper, which I was in the end. I've used Pastel in one loop to no issue, but I'm ultra paranoid about the chance of growth or other issues arising that I tend to over do things (I flushed my rads for 12-24hrs with a vinegar/distilled mix, then 2 hours straight distilled, then 24hrs with a baking soda/distilled mix, then another 8hours with distilled, put together the loop and ran distilled and checked pH with a set of strip I got from a pool chemical retailer near me). All the equipment to watercool is definitely not the most inexpensive stuff out there which is why I'm over-cautious on this.


That might be a little over the top.
The worst that can happen when you use pastel, is that the colors change. Performance and such should stay the same, unless I missed something.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know its very over the top lol, but seeing issues where if people didn't take the time to ensure they wouldn't have a color change (which normally a color change is just that and performance shouldn't suffer, but that's why we get the colored fluids is to have the color last) while those of us who took the extreme route or used the full blitz kit then had a color change then we know something was wrong fluid wise vs having flux in the rads still due to just a few flushes w/ straight distilled - not all rads come off the line the same since there seems to be minimal quality control over this across the board which is why we're strongly suggested to flush thoroughly.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know its very over the top lol, but seeing issues where if people didn't take the time to ensure they wouldn't have a color change (which normally a color change is just that and performance shouldn't suffer, but that's why we get the colored fluids is to have the color last) while those of us who took the extreme route or used the full blitz kit then had a color change then we know something was wrong fluid wise vs having flux in the rads still due to just a few flushes w/ straight distilled - not all rads come off the line the same since there seems to be minimal quality control over this across the board which is why we're strongly suggested to flush thoroughly.


Was...that all one sentence..?

Anyway, I didn't flush my rads extensively before using X1...only twice with distilled water, and now my Primochill Advanced LRT is yellow/brown. It's gross. I don't really want to change the tubing, so I'm wondering if it's okay to flush my system with the blitz kit, then use some pastel coolant to sort of hide the yellowing.


----------



## 7akata

I think if the tubing is yellowed it's going to tint the pastel color when you change the coolant. Might be out of luck and in need of a tubing change now.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> I feel this is rather harsh on Mick and Mayhems. In my experience they have always bent over backwards to help and support their customers if they have problems. As for being condescending - certainly not to my knowledge, and anyway there is a lot of stress in running a business - so surely everyone is entitled to have a bad day or two.
> 
> The experience of the poster is the exception rather than the rule imho, but in all cases you are entitled to your opinion.
> 
> Mark


i dont want to talk after him but i also dont think its harsh on him or his company because you already mentioned people have rights to entitle their opinion,so it depends on my personel experience with him and his company .


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Cant say anything good or bad about those guys (except for their bad english - how can you run a business and not know a difference between their/they're/there? Especially when they are from UK..).


For a second I was like "eh, gonna give him a pass since he's a foreigner" (relative to the US) then I was like waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaait a second, they INVENTED the English language...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Was...that all one sentence..?
> 
> Anyway, I didn't flush my rads extensively before using X1...only twice with distilled water, and now my Primochill Advanced LRT is yellow/brown. It's gross. I don't really want to change the tubing, so I'm wondering if it's okay to flush my system with the blitz kit, then use some pastel coolant to sort of hide the yellowing.


Lol I think it actually was







head is somewhere else today.

How long have you run the X1?


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> For a second I was like "eh, gonna give him a pass since he's a foreigner" (relative to the US) then I was like waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaait a second, they INVENTED the English language...


Eh you Murricans


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i dont want to talk after him but i also dont think its harsh on him or his company because you already mentioned people have rights to entitle their opinion,so it depends on my personel experience with him and his company .


Fair enough - we will leave it at that.

Mark


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tipes*
> 
> I feel this is rather harsh on Mick and Mayhems. In my experience they have always bent over backwards to help and support their customers if they have problems. As for being condescending - certainly not to my knowledge, and anyway there is a lot of stress in running a business - so surely everyone is entitled to have a bad day or two.
> 
> The experience of the poster is the exception rather than the rule imho, but in all cases you are entitled to your opinion.
> 
> Mark


The challenge of any business is going to be providing a consistent experience to all their customers- this is something even Mick stresses in his claim that each person is important whether they spend $10 or $10000. However, the only way I can judge the company is through my own real personal experience, which was extremely poor. I have no doubt that running a business is hard, but no business is *entitled* to a bad day- bad days like this are a failure of an individual to maintain professionalism and, in all honesty, provides a real look at the genuine nature of that person/business.

There's no going back to change my interaction with the company and I will continue tell people to *avoid Mayhems* as a result.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol I think it actually was
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> head is somewhere else today.
> 
> How long have you run the X1?


I ran the X1 for about 8 months, then emptied my system and it has been empty for the past 3 months. Now I'm looking to fill it up again, but I don't really want to take everything apart if I don't absolutely have to.

Especially since I'm in Japan and shipping from watercooling distributors is absolutely outrageous.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> The challenge of any business is going to be providing a consistent experience to all their customers- this is something even Mick stresses in his claim that each person is important whether they spend $10 or $10000. However, the only way I can judge the company is through my own real personal experience, which was extremely poor. I have no doubt that running a business is hard, but no business is *entitled* to a bad day- bad days like this are a failure of an individual to maintain professionalism and, in all honesty, provides a real look at the genuine nature of that person/business.
> 
> There's no going back to change my interaction with the company and I will continue tell people to *avoid Mayhems* as a result.


Based on what you have linked in your sig line, I think Mick did not consider you to be a "real" customer. It sounds like you won a system? (as in no purchasing of parts or assembly of components) He probably just assumed you had done no research or planning and was just given something cool and started whining about it when it started changing color.
You mention Mayhems possibly sponsoring the coolant for the build...he already gave you free coolant once. He tells you what causes the color change and you say you did it right and that cant be the issue, which is where he starts getting annoyed. Mick has been know to be an ass, and its gotten him into trouble before in other places, but I've seen him send out cleaning kits and replacement coolant to people in similar situations before.
In the second to last post (screenshots) he says to flush and test ph and report back. Sounds to me like he was about to send you some replacements as soon as you had the system ready. Then you attacked him in your response, calling his product faulty and demanding new dye. After following this thread for the last year I'm really not surprised by the response you received.
I'm not saying he handled the situation properly by any means, but at the same time you could have gone about it differently as well. Perhaps using the PM system to try to work something out privately would have been better than posting in a public thread.
Your points are valid and I even agree with you that some kind of warning should be on the product concerning ph sensitivity. When dealing with any kind of customer service, the nicer you are to them, the more you'll get. I really think you are taking this whole thing too far and posting links to the conversation in your sig line is excessive.
Just my thoughts on the matter.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Based on what you have linked in your sig line, I think Mick did not consider you to be a "real" customer. It sounds like you won a system? (as in no purchasing of parts or assembly of components) He probably just assumed you had done no research or planning and was just given something cool and started whining about it when it started changing color.
> You mention Mayhems possibly sponsoring the coolant for the build...he already gave you free coolant once. He tells you what causes the color change and you say you did it right and that cant be the issue, which is where he starts getting annoyed. Mick has been know to be an ass, and its gotten him into trouble before in other places, but I've seen him send out cleaning kits and replacement coolant to people in similar situations before.
> In the second to last post (screenshots) he says to flush and test ph and report back. Sounds to me like he was about to send you some replacements as soon as you had the system ready. Then you attacked him in your response, calling his product faulty and demanding new dye. After following this thread for the last year I'm really not surprised by the response you received.
> I'm not saying he handled the situation properly by any means, but at the same time you could have gone about it differently as well. Perhaps using the PM system to try to work something out privately would have been better than posting in a public thread.
> Your points are valid and I even agree with you that some kind of warning should be on the product concerning ph sensitivity. When dealing with any kind of customer service, the nicer you are to them, the more you'll get. I really think you are taking this whole thing too far and posting links to the conversation in your sig line is excessive.
> Just my thoughts on the matter.


Exactly. I just read the entire posts between him and Mayhem, and Mayhem didn't do anything wrong. He even guided him on what the problem was. It just seems like dub is trying to get free stuff from him. The coolant last almost 2 years and he's complaining? I support Mayhem 200%.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Exactly. I just read the entire posts between him and Mayhem, and Mayhem didn't do anything wrong. He even guided him on what the problem was. It just seems like dub is trying to get free stuff from him. The coolant last almost 2 years and he's complaining? I support Mayhem 200%.


Just read it all as well. It seems Mick only got on his case once the guy refused to do any sort of testing/troubleshooting.

Overall it seems the guy had a poor knowledge of the watercooling system and didnt build the system himself.

Mick did get a little negative towards the end but I can understand it. This guy wasnt going to spend any money, and he wasnt going to do any troubleshooting. He was just mucking up the thread and wasting the time of Mayhems representative.

And hes complaining when the coolant lasted him 2 years? This just shows hes uneducated on it, HE KEPT THE COOLANT FOR 2 YEARS. He should have done a full system clean and fluid replacement way before it got to that point. He is right about distilled usually bringing better temps, but we already know that about distilled and its usually a pretty minor difference.

Mayhems got my business 100%


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Based on what you have linked in your sig line, I think Mick did not consider you to be a "real" customer. It sounds like you won a system? (as in no purchasing of parts or assembly of components) He probably just assumed you had done no research or planning and was just given something cool and started whining about it when it started changing color.
> You mention Mayhems possibly sponsoring the coolant for the build...he already gave you free coolant once. He tells you what causes the color change and you say you did it right and that cant be the issue, which is where he starts getting annoyed. Mick has been know to be an ass, and its gotten him into trouble before in other places, but I've seen him send out cleaning kits and replacement coolant to people in similar situations before.
> In the second to last post (screenshots) he says to flush and test ph and report back. Sounds to me like he was about to send you some replacements as soon as you had the system ready. Then you attacked him in your response, calling his product faulty and demanding new dye. After following this thread for the last year I'm really not surprised by the response you received.
> I'm not saying he handled the situation properly by any means, but at the same time you could have gone about it differently as well. Perhaps using the PM system to try to work something out privately would have been better than posting in a public thread.
> Your points are valid and I even agree with you that some kind of warning should be on the product concerning ph sensitivity. When dealing with any kind of customer service, the nicer you are to them, the more you'll get. I really think you are taking this whole thing too far and posting links to the conversation in your sig line is excessive.
> Just my thoughts on the matter.


I don't believe I attacked Mick. I simply stated the facts of my situation and, in light of the new information regarding the pH sensitivity of the product, advised that I would prefer a comparable product that did not suffer from the same issue. Regardless if I was a direct customer or indirect, I don't think that should change the support offered. A sponsor may not receive cash for the product, but they do receive publicity and advertisement- in many cases this exposure is more valuable than the product being offered (probably the case with a product like this coolant). Just because cash doesn't change hands doesn't mean support shouldn't be offered. You think the people who win cars on shows like The Price is Right are denied warranty service on their *won* automobiles or aren't considered *real* customers by the sponsor who provided them? Of course not.

Looking back at the conversation, I think its hilarious that the first 'solution' offered to me was actually a sales pitch for the Blitz product. "Product not working as expected? Well let me take this opportunity to sell you something that may fix your problem". That's not amazing customer service.

Do I believe I am taking this too far? No, not really. I've long since stopped using his product, but that interaction was so poor I have no problem continuing to post my experiences so that others need not go through the frustration I have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Exactly. I just read the entire posts between him and Mayhem, and Mayhem didn't do anything wrong. He even guided him on what the problem was. It just seems like dub is trying to get free stuff from him. The coolant last almost 2 years and he's complaining? I support Mayhem 200%.


I guess you missed the dated photos I had included in the gallery. The coolant did not last 2 years- it didn't even make it to six months. I don't know how seeking support when a product doesn't meet the expectation set by the manufacturer could be classified as seeking free stuff. *At its core, this issue was a RMA request that was denied because I didn't follow non-existent directions that were only provided after the product had failed.* Seriously think about that. That would not fly with any other product in any other industry. Say a GPU manufacturer denied RMA on your 6 month old GPU because you failed to oil the fans. You look at the instructions for installing the card and it doesn't say to oil the fans and you want your 2yr warranty upheld, but you're told you will not be getting a replacement. Are you going to just accept that? What do you say to the random forum member who then assumes that you must be looking for free stuff?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Just read it all as well. It seems Mick only got on his case once the guy refused to do any sort of testing/troubleshooting.
> 
> Overall it seems the guy had a poor knowledge of the watercooling system and didnt build the system himself.
> 
> Mick did get a little negative towards the end but I can understand it. This guy wasnt going to spend any money, and he wasnt going to do any troubleshooting. He was just mucking up the thread and wasting the time of Mayhems representative.
> 
> And hes complaining when the coolant lasted him 2 years? This just shows hes uneducated on it, HE KEPT THE COOLANT FOR 2 YEARS. He should have done a full system clean and fluid replacement way before it got to that point. He is right about distilled usually bringing better temps, but we already know that about distilled and its usually a pretty minor difference.
> 
> Mayhems got my business 100%


I don't know why the dates are so hard for everyone to read. The coolant did not last 2 years. It didn't make it to 6 months.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I don't believe I attacked Mick. I simply stated the facts of my situation and, in light of the new information regarding the pH sensitivity of the product, advised that I would prefer a comparable product that did not suffer from the same issue. Regardless if I was a direct customer or indirect, I don't think that should change the support offered. A sponsor may not receive cash for the product, but they do receive publicity and advertisement- in many cases this exposure is more valuable than the product being offered (probably the case with a product like this coolant). Just because cash doesn't change hands doesn't mean support shouldn't be offered. You think the people who win cars on shows like The Price is Right are denied warranty service on their *won* automobiles or aren't considered *real* customers by the sponsor who provided them? Of course not.
> 
> Looking back at the conversation, I think its hilarious that the first 'solution' offered to me was actually a sales pitch for the Blitz product. "Product not working as expected? Well let me take this opportunity to sell you something that may fix your problem". That's not amazing customer service.
> 
> Do I believe I am taking this too far? No, not really. I've long since stopped using his product, but that interaction was so poor I have no problem continuing to post my experiences so that others need not go through the frustration I have.
> I guess you missed the dated photos I had included in the gallery. The coolant did not last 2 years- it didn't even make it to six months. I don't know how seeking support when a product doesn't meet the expectation set by the manufacturer could be classified as seeking free stuff. *At its core, this issue was a RMA request that was denied because I didn't follow non-existent directions that were only provided after the product had failed.* Seriously think about that. That would not fly with any other product in any other industry. Say a GPU manufacturer denied RMA on your 6 month old GPU because you failed to oil the fans. You look at the instructions for installing the card and it doesn't say to oil the fans and you want your 2yr warranty upheld, but you're told you will not be getting a replacement. Are you going to just accept that? What do you say to the random forum member who then assumes that you must be looking for free stuff?


Thats not a sales pitch, thats a solution.

The PH was bad, he linked a product that fixes the PH.
It happens to be his product.

Whats the problem.

If your response is "but the system was cleaned and he couldnt know if the PH was bad" Thats because you wouldnt test it to assist in troubleshooting the problem.

This is like if you were to call up a graphics card company for support and they ask you to try and reinstall the drivers to see if that was the problem, and you just say "no, im not doing that, stop trying to get me to download your drivers"

Also realize you are attempting to RMA request a disposable and perishable item. It can only be used once, and degrades overtime.

Most watercoolers flush their system every 6-12 months. And a lot of us replace our fluid when we do that to be sure there arent any plasticizer leaks or other issues with the coolant that could cause reduced performance or color differences. And thats not just a Mayhems coolant procedure, thats something you do even with distilled if you want to play it completely safe.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Thats not a sales pitch, thats a solution.
> 
> The PH was bad, he linked a product that fixes the PH.
> It happens to be his product.
> 
> Whats the problem.
> 
> If your response is "but the system was cleaned and he couldnt know if the PH was bad" Thats because you wouldnt test it to assist in troubleshooting the problem.
> 
> This is like if you were to call up a graphics card company for support and they ask you to try and reinstall the drivers to see if that was the problem, and you just say "no, im not doing that, stop trying to get me to download your drivers"


First, thanks for realizing calling me names isn't productive and editing your post. I think I am being very civil and I would appreciate if you did the same.

The problem here is very simple: If you follow the directions for a product and it doesn't work, a solution should not involve you having to *purchase another product*.

I did not have the means to purchase a pH tester (electronic or strips), nor was I interested in continuing using a product that was going to be that sensitive to pH. I did request a comparable product that isn't as sensitive to pH as an alternative solution.

I want to add that this is not like refusing to download drivers. Downloading drivers is listed in the instructions for a GPU, and just like in this Mayhems situation, I would have followed the directions. Aside from that, draining a loop, cleaning out with acid and base, refilling and bleeding, then picking up pH testing materials (something I dont think may people have handy) is not as simple a request as downloading drivers.


----------



## SteezyTN

So are you just going to go around shouting that people shouldn't buy mayhems? That sounds productive too


----------



## Deedaz

Watercooling requires research and planning. I don't see how it's too much to ask that you maybe do a quick google search, or even search these forums on the stuff that went into YOUR computer, especially since you've been a member of this forum for the last 5 years. I spent 3 months planning and researching things (especially the fluids) before I made a single purchase. As Mick pointed out, google would have answered all your questions and would have been a good idea before filling the loop.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So are you just going to go around shouting that people shouldn't buy mayhems? That sounds productive too


I'm going to present my documented experience to them and let them make their own decision. I think that's more than reasonable. What else should I do? Roll over and do nothing? Sing his praises from the mountain top? His decision was to deny me any replacement and mine is to make sure people are aware that his service/product is not beyond reproach.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> First, thanks for realizing calling me names isn't productive and editing your post. I think I am being very civil and I would appreciate if you did the same.
> 
> The problem here is very simple: If you follow the directions for a product and it doesn't work, a solution should not involve you having to *purchase another product*.


Not a problem, Ill fess up to having a hot temper.
[EDIT]: Very hot temper

I will partially agree with you here, because you are right, generally speaking.

A product should not require the purchase of another product for you to use it.
The problem is in this hobby, that cant be applied too well. With PC watercooling things very rarely "just work", theres so many different parts and operating conditions around that no manufacturer could properly prepare their product to work with everything out of the box. This becomes especially true when talking about liquids. Liquids are extremely reactive and volatile to temperatures, PH, dirt, plasticizer leaks, and corrosion. Your issue could have been caused by any number of things. It could have been plasticizer entering the coolant from the tube and causing the color to change, it could have been the dye changing in color due to PH or temperature issues, it could have been the solution separating, the list could go on for 2 pages alone.

Now as for your comment on how the bottles label doesnt include mention of the PH testing. I come from liquids manufacturing and have a lot of experience with labeling as I work pretty often in the packaging department. Now the following is assuming Mayhem doesnt print their own labels. When you order labels for your product, you are often charged on multiple metrics.
1. size
2. complexity
3. material
4. content
The content is the one that matters here. The reason product labels, especially on bottles tend to be less in depth is that you are usually charged for how much you print onto the label. So leaving some information off of the label and leaving it on the website is a common and effective cost saving measure for manufacturers (in this case, mayhem). I will agree again though, that if all you did is read the label, you would have no idea. And I have no way of knowing if this is why it wasnt on the bottle, all that I am saying is this is very common among liquid manufacturers as a cost saving measure. Which helps us too because any extra cost for them, is translated onto the retail price for us.

That is why one of the number one things this community (OCN/general watercooling) stresses on is proper research and testing. I havent been around this community too long, but in my time Ive messed up once and took it as a lesson, do your reading. Ask forum members about products, read reviews and tests, take measurements, check manufacturer websites, ask manufacturers, do whatever it takes to get as much knowledge on the subject as possible. We can all agree this is as complicated as it is expensive, so make sure that you do the research so you dont end up pouring money down the drain. If you were to ask a member in this thread or the general OCN watercooling thread prior to installation if there was anything you should know about the coolant, im positive someone would have brought it up. Earlier today I experienced this when someone in my buildlog notified me that one of the radiators I purchased is prone to being extremely dirty out of the box. This community is usually happy to help out as long as youre willing to listen and ask the questions.

As for the Mayhems Blitz product that was recommended to you by mick. This product has become like a standard to a lot of users for cleaning their loops. This product is very thorough and makes certain your loop is spotless and PH balanced, which helps with any coolant you buy, and even distilled to some extent.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I'm going to present my documented experience to them and let them make their own decision. I think that's more than reasonable. What else should I do? Roll over and do nothing? Sing his praises from the mountain top? His decision was to deny me any replacement and mine is to make sure people are aware that his service/product is not beyond reproach.


Nobody is saying he's a saint, but he WAS willing to help you until you refused to put any effort into it. A little extra effort on your part would have likely gotten you new coolant and maybe even a blitz kit.

"The blocks and especially the radiator must be clean and have no chemicals of any kind left in the system. We recommend you flush your system with Sodium Bicarbonate followed by DI water or Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 before use."

this label from the bottle seems to indicate the coolant has a sensitivity to something. Did you flush as recommended? If not, then you really didn't "do your part" as you claim.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Not a problem, Ill fess up to having a hot temper.
> 
> I will partially agree with you here, because you are right, generally speaking.
> 
> A product should not require the purchase of another product for you to use it.
> The problem is in this hobby, that cant be applied too well. With PC watercooling things very rarely "just work", theres so many different parts and operating conditions around that no manufacturer could properly prepare their product to work with everything out of the box. This becomes especially true when talking about liquids. Liquids are extremely reactive and volatile to temperatures, PH, dirt, plasticizer leaks, and corrosion. Your issue could have been caused by any number of things. It could have been plasticizer entering the coolant from the tube and causing the color to change, it could have been the dye changing in color due to PH or temperature issues, it could have been the solution separating, the list could go on for 2 pages alone.
> 
> Now as for your comment on how the bottles label doesnt include mention of the PH testing. I come from liquids manufacturing and have a lot of experience with labeling as I work pretty often in the packaging department. Now the following is assuming Mayhem doesnt print their own labels. When you order labels for your product, you are often charged on multiple metrics.
> 1. size
> 2. complexity
> 3. material
> 4. content
> The content is the one that matters here. The reason product labels, especially on bottles tend to be less in depth is that you are usually charged for how much you print onto the label. So leaving some information off of the label and leaving it on the website is a common and effective cost saving measure for manufacturers (in this case, mayhem). I will agree again though, that if all you did is read the label, you would have no idea. And I have no way of knowing if this is why it wasnt on the bottle, all that I am saying is this is very common among liquid manufacturers as a cost saving measure. Which helps us too because any extra cost for them, is translated onto the retail price for us.
> 
> That is why one of the number one things this community (OCN/general watercooling) stresses on is proper research and testing. I havent been around this community too long, but in my time Ive messed up once and took it as a lesson, do your reading. Ask forum members about products, read reviews and tests, take measurements, check manufacturer websites, ask manufacturers, do whatever it takes to get as much knowledge on the subject as possible. We can all agree this is as complicated as it is expensive, so make sure that you do the research so you dont end up pouring money down the drain. If you were to ask a member in this thread or the general OCN watercooling thread prior to installation if there was anything you should know about the coolant, im positive someone would have brought it up. Earlier today I experienced this when someone in my buildlog notified me that one of the radiators I purchased is prone to being extremely dirty out of the box.
> 
> As for the Mayhems Blitz product that was recommended to you by mick. This product has become like a standard to a lot of users for cleaning their loops. This product is very thorough and makes certain your loop is spotless and PH balanced, which helps with any coolant you buy, and even distilled to some extent.


I can understand if there is a logistics problem to printing labels. Part of the original problem was that the online instructions didn't mention pH, either. I don't think either of us could argue that there are any logistical limitations to adding these instructions on the website, no?

I also understand that people here will preach research and testing. That is reasonable, but to what extent? Am I supposed to Google or research everything I purchase to make sure the manufacturer didn't leave something out? At what point do I have to make the decision to trust a forum member on OCN, TPU, Tom's, Anand with knowing how to use a particular product over the manufacturer themselves? What if the community collective believes in something that is not true? If I do decide to follow instructions outside of the manufacturer's suggestion, who becomes liable if something goes wrong? Tough questions. As great as the community may be, I don't think they should be relied on above the manufacturer to tell me how to reach a baseline level of performance out of a particular product. I don't think that is unreasonable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Nobody is saying he's a saint, but he WAS willing to help you until you refused to put any effort into it. A little extra effort on your part would have likely gotten you new coolant and maybe even a blitz kit.
> 
> "The blocks and especially the radiator must be clean and have no chemicals of any kind left in the system. We recommend you flush your system with Sodium Bicarbonate followed by DI water or Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 before use."
> 
> this label from the bottle seems to indicate the coolant has a sensitivity to something. Did you flush as recommended? If not, then you really didn't "do your part" as you claim.


At the time of the issue the bottle had that text *except* the part about sodium bicarbonate. In fact that was not even on the website a couple days ago when I took a quick look. I followed the directions on the bottle and flushed with DI- two times.

If you'd like to get caught up on the situation to contribute to the conversation, I literally have the entire interaction between Mick and I in the gallery posted to my signature.

This is what the Pastels page lists for me as of two minutes ago:


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I can understand if there is a logistics problem to printing labels. Part of the original problem was that the online instructions didn't mention pH, either. I don't think either of us could argue that there are any logistical limitations to adding these instructions on the website, no?
> 
> I also understand that people here will preach research and testing. That is reasonable, but to what extent? Am I supposed to Google or research everything I purchase to make sure the manufacturer didn't leave something out? At what point do I have to make the decision to trust a forum member on OCN, TPU, Tom's, Anand with knowing how to use a particular product over the manufacturer themselves? What if the community collective believes in something that is not true? If I do decide to follow instructions outside of the manufacturer's suggestion, who becomes liable if something goes wrong? Tough questions. As great as the community may be, I don't think they should be relied on above the manufacturer to tell me how to reach a baseline level of performance out of a particular product. I don't think that is unreasonable.
> At the time of the issue the bottle had that text *except* the part about sodium bicarbonate. In fact that was not even on the website a couple days ago when I took a quick look. I followed the directions on the bottle and flushed with DI- two times.
> 
> If you'd like to get caught up on the situation to contribute to the conversation, I literally have the entire interaction between Mick and I in the gallery posted to my signature.
> 
> This is what the Pastels page lists for me as of two minutes ago:


How long ago was this? The only date I see is the date you posted the screenshots (without digging through the thread). The picture I pulled that from was from ppc and they are not known for keeping their product pictures updated (monsoon fittings) so I assumed the info would have been there. I tossed my bottles after mixing so I couldn't check my own.
If the label change didn't happen until after your issue, perhaps you caused it and helped the community, so at least something good came from this.


----------



## EduardoB

*Hello everyone!*
I'm starting a new build an I'm a very beginner at watercooling world. I'll use an Asrock z97m OC Formula and the theme obviously will be yellow and black. I think Sunset Yellow will not match the motherboard color. What the better thing to do? Sunset Yellow with one or two drops of red dye or a kind of golden coolant?
P.S.: English is not my native language, sorry if I did some grotesque error
Thank you all


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EduardoB*
> 
> *Hello everyone!*
> I'm starting a new build an I'm a very beginner at watercooling world. I'll use an Asrock z97m OC Formula and the theme obviously will be yellow and black. I think Sunset Yellow will not match the motherboard color. What the better thing to do? Sunset Yellow with one or two drops of red dye or a kind of golden coolant?
> P.S.: English is not my native language, sorry if I did some grotesque error
> Thank you all


IMO create an account here if you want the best answer: http://www.mayhems.net/viewforum.php?f=4


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> IMO create an account here if you want the best answer: http://www.mayhems.net/viewforum.php?f=4


Listen to this guy. That is Mayhems official forum. Mick will answer you personally there. He helped me come up with a solution for the color I wanted. Hes abandoned the OCN forums, and with good reason.


----------



## EduardoB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> IMO create an account here if you want the best answer: http://www.mayhems.net/viewforum.php?f=4


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Listen to this guy. That is Mayhems official forum. Mick will answer you personally there. He helped me come up with a solution for the color I wanted. Hes abandoned the OCN forums, and with good reason.


Thank you so much guys for the answer!! +Rep








I'll running there right now!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EduardoB*
> 
> Thank you so much guys for the answer!! +Rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll running there right now!


Yeah, thank the O¢N admins for that :/


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Yeah, thank the O¢N admins for that :/


That was gold.

The cents symbol made my day


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

TBF the only person who forced mick to leave was mick.

Money has nothing to do with it. He is free to come back and offer support for his products without any money changing hands as he has done in the past.

There is a difference between offering support for products and advertising products.

Anyone wondering what the differences are for free and paying reps please read this article.
http://www.overclock.net/a/posting-guidelines-for-hardware-vendor-and-manufacturer-reps


----------



## Anateus

Yeah, if he really is so helpful, then he would stay here anyway.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Yeah, if he really is so helpful, then he would stay here anyway.


Condescending

TCO


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> EK Pastel line is a partnership with Mayhems but the non-pastel isn't


I can't get PPCS to carry the EK pastel concentrate line. I asked since they offer everything else EK, they said "no, why should we when we already carry the Mayhems pastels"

Well, because some of us have had a very positive experience with EK coolant and would like to maintain that experience and add some awesome color.









They didn't think my argument had any feet to stand on.









Fine, I'll open up my own store on the West Coast and make certain to carry everything EK.

Hmmm, I'll call it Pacific PCs.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I can't get PPCS to carry the EK pastel concentrate line. I asked since they offer everything else EK, they said "no, why should we when we already carry the Mayhems pastels"
> 
> Well, because some of us have had a very positive experience with EK coolant and would like to maintain that experience and add some awesome color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They didn't think my argument had any feet to stand on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fine, I'll open up my own store on the West Coast and make certain to carry everything EK.
> 
> Hmmm, I'll call it Pacific PCs.










EK's pastel concentrate *is* Mayhems... Example: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-ekoolant-pastel-white-concentrate-250ml


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK's pastel concentrate *is* Mayhems... Example: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-ekoolant-pastel-white-concentrate-250ml


But they only carry the Mayhems in the extra large containers, no concentrate and I like EK stuff.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

That is concentrate I linked


----------



## gdubc

Don't know how far you are from a microcenter, but the Denver one carries EK pastels. They also carry mayhems, the old ekoolant, ice dragon, swiftech hydrx, Thermaltakes fluid, and a couple others, maybe XSPC and AquaComputer (I can't remember for sure). I love microcenter, lol.


----------



## iBruce

Yes, but you cannot get the EK pastel concentrates at PPCS, only direct from EK, and the shipping costs are crazy from EK direct.

I realize they both contain the same Mayhems awesome dyes, but are the other corrosion resistant and antibacterial components in the coolants the exact same?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ek+coolant+concentrate

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Mayhems+pastel


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Don't know how far you are from a microcenter, but the Denver one carries EK pastels. They also carry mayhems, the old ekoolant, ice dragon, swiftech hydrx, Thermaltakes fluid, and a couple others, maybe XSPC and AquaComputer (I can't remember for sure). I love microcenter, lol.


Hah, I'm a ten minute drive from PPCS, so I rely on them for all water cooling, I'm in Florida, nearest MicroCenter is Atlanta, Georgia.









Had planned on using one of the pastel reds in this build recently but I couldn't differentiate the other components, I know the red pastel dye is Mayhems in both products.

Got the clear EK plexi top just for that purpose, went with clear EK again, boring, since I've had great luck with the EK coolant.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

That's why they said "no, why should we when we already carry the Mayhems pastels" because they're the same thing.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> That's why they said "no, why should we when we already carry the Mayhems pastels" because they're the same thing.


Same dye, maybe not the same solution.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

EK pastel is a partnership (rebrand AFAIK) with Mayhems
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Question I've been wondering. Ek has pastel which is basically mayhems or it is mayhems. But is there translucent fluid mayhems x1 or no
> 
> 
> 
> EK Pastel line is a partnership with Mayhems but the non-pastel isn't
Click to expand...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/11600_100#post_24256361


----------



## iBruce

Yep, the dye component is the same, it's Mayhems. But do we know if the other components in the Mayhems concentrate and the EK concentrate are exactly the same?

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/ek-ekoolant-pastel_red_8001_zpsn3rbpytk.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/C_Red_-_Black_zps4gtmurm2.jpg.html


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

The entire solution is produced by Mayhems as seen on the product pages.

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-ekoolant-pastel-red-concentrate-250ml

Also straight out of Mayhems mouth/fingers
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems is a separate company and EKWB have a much wider grasp of the market than us. Both brands are reaching a much wider audience than we could have on our own. They are the perfect partner for us and im personally feeling pretty proud of our partnership. What people will not know is we make fluids for a few different companies and we will keep growing and keep on expanding. We wont discuss who we make them for though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or how involved we are in the market place .


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> The entire solution is produced by Mayhems as seen on the product pages.
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-ekoolant-pastel-red-concentrate-250ml
> 
> Also straight out of Mayhems mouth/fingers


That's great news, thank you, placing an order for Mayhems pastel red concentrate right now.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Hah, I'm a ten minute drive from PPCS, so I rely on them for all water cooling, I'm in Florida, nearest MicroCenter is Atlanta, Georgia.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had planned on using one of the pastel reds in this build recently but I couldn't differentiate the other components, I know the red pastel dye is Mayhems in both products.
> 
> Got the clear EK plexi top just for that purpose, went with clear EK again, boring, since I've had great luck with the EK coolant.


And I live smack dab in the middle of both locations here in Metro Atlanta, lol


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> And I live smack dab in the middle of both locations here in Metro Atlanta, lol


You're so lucky, for me Atlanta would be a 16hour drive roundtrip all my MicroCenter CPU savings would be eaten up in gas and roadtrip food.









Luckily the good folks at PPCS are close by so that makes up for no MicroCenter.

Of course it also leads to spending way too much since it's overly convenient to drive over at a moments notice, whenever the water parts itch falls upon me.


----------



## ReHWolution

Hey guys







Sorry for bothering you (and sorry if this question was asked already, it's more than 200 pages and I can't find anything about my problem). I have an Alphacool NexXxos Cool Answer liquid system (with a GPX 290 M08 added), but instead of the CKC (the liquid bundled with the kit) I used the Pastel Red Nano Fluid, and now, after a month, the fluid got much darker. Recently, I added the GPX waterblock to the loop and when I emptied the loop I noticed the tubings got orange-ish and the fluid now is darker...are the AlphaTube HF compatible with the liquid? Will I have problems?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReHWolution*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for bothering you (and sorry if this question was asked already, it's more than 200 pages and I can't find anything about my problem). I have an Alphacool NexXxos Cool Answer liquid system (with a GPX 290 M08 added), but instead of the CKC (the liquid bundled with the kit) I used the Pastel Red Nano Fluid, and now, after a month, the fluid got much darker. Recently, I added the GPX waterblock to the loop and when I emptied the loop I noticed the tubings got orange-ish and the fluid now is darker...are the AlphaTube HF compatible with the liquid? Will I have problems?


Pastel is very sensitive to contaminants and ph levels. I would recommend getting a blitz pro kit. Use part one on just your radiator(s) and then run part two through the fully assembled loop. Alphacool rads are notorious for being dirty and needing a very thorough cleaning.


----------



## ReHWolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ReHWolution*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for bothering you (and sorry if this question was asked already, it's more than 200 pages and I can't find anything about my problem). I have an Alphacool NexXxos Cool Answer liquid system (with a GPX 290 M08 added), but instead of the CKC (the liquid bundled with the kit) I used the Pastel Red Nano Fluid, and now, after a month, the fluid got much darker. Recently, I added the GPX waterblock to the loop and when I emptied the loop I noticed the tubings got orange-ish and the fluid now is darker...are the AlphaTube HF compatible with the liquid? Will I have problems?
> 
> 
> 
> Pastel is very sensitive to contaminants and ph levels. I would recommend getting a blitz pro kit. Use part one on just your radiator(s) and then run part two through the fully assembled loop. Alphacool rads are notorious for being dirty and needing a very thorough cleaning.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick reply! Is there any way to "filter" the pastel red coolant I used? I mean, I paid 18€ for each 1 Lt bottle :\


----------



## DarthBaggins

Use coffee filters to filter the pastel into a container, then once filtered pour into bottle (if you still have them)


----------



## Deedaz

I don't think the coolant will be usable anymore. Try contacting mayhems, they may be able to work something out with you.

edit: would filtering fix the color change too?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Actually don't think it will, normally the color change is caused by a reaction with flux in the rads


----------



## Anateus

Colour change happens due to the chemical reactions afaik, so filtering shouldnt be able to bring it back.


----------



## ReHWolution

I just wrote a pm on FB to Mayhems, I hope they'll reply me. I'm in the Italian IT press, I hope it'll be helpful to my situation lol


----------



## ReHWolution

UPDATE: Michael from Mayhems replied to my pm, in few days I should receive some new pastel red bottles and a mayhem blitz cleaning kit for free, amazing support!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReHWolution*
> 
> UPDATE: Michael from Mayhems replied to my pm, in few days I should receive some new pastel red bottles and a mayhem blitz cleaning kit for free, amazing support!


Awesome news!









I'm guessing you were nice and didn't demand things from him like someone else did a few pages back lol


----------



## ReHWolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ReHWolution*
> 
> UPDATE: Michael from Mayhems replied to my pm, in few days I should receive some new pastel red bottles and a mayhem blitz cleaning kit for free, amazing support!
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome news!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing you were nice and didn't demand things from him like someone else did a few pages back lol
Click to expand...

Not at all, I just asked what to do and he said that by himself. Oh, and he replied me @ 2 AM ON SUNDAY. Incredible company, incredible workers, incredible products


----------



## SteezyTN

So I ordered 10 feet of the new Mayhems Ultra Clear Tubing for my Caselabs SMA8 build. Ill be using the Pastel Ice white. I have 7/16 XSPC fittings, so I hope I don't have any issues with the 3/8 size


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I ordered 10 feet of the new Mayhems Ultra Clear Tubing for my Caselabs SMA8 build. Ill be using the Pastel Ice white. I have 7/16 XSPC fittings, so I hope I don't have any issues with the 3/8 size


If you find it too difficult getting the tubing on the barbs try this trick. Heat some water in a container, dip the tubing in it for maybe 15-30 seconds, and stretch the ends with needle nose pliers. Makes things much easier. This allowed me to get 3/8" tubing on a 1/2" barb.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Been out of state for Nordic Fest, and stuff so... Let's do this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is it safe to mix X1 and pastel?


Yes. Just make sure not to dilute pastel. You'll get better corrosion protection from this, but lower thermal capacity. I'd advise going X1 (or XT-1) with pastel extreme before doing this.

-Z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> His bad experience was due to not fully flushing his loop properly and his pastel changed color which Mick pointed out where the info was, which I know it's stated on his site and several times in the thread of the Pastel's being ph sensitive
> 
> 
> 
> I followed the directions that came with the product, actually. He linked me to all sorts of articles he pulled from a Google search about pH, but couldn't show me what step in his own instructions required me to check pH. Had the instructions said check for neutral pH, I would've done so, however the literature did not say anything other than flushing with DI or Ultra Pure- I flushed twice with DI. The website still does not mention verifying pH (I only gave it a quick look). Maybe he's updated other instructions now, but I still have the bottle of Pastels that has absolutely no mention of pH on it. So, from my perspective, I used a product and followed the included directions from the manufacturer, but was still deemed at fault when the product failed to perform and received no support. *For that I stand by my 0/10 rating.* That doesn't even get into his awful attitude and condescending demeanor- I won't miss him
Click to expand...

That isn't an issue with the coolant, that's an issue with your radiators. Flux from the manufacturing plant reacts with the coolant lowering the pH and adversely effecting the colour. This would cause any coolant with similar dyes to discolour. (See virtually any blood red coolant on the market)

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I followed the directions that came with the product, actually. He linked me to all sorts of articles he pulled from a Google search about pH, but couldn't show me what step in his own instructions required me to check pH. Had the instructions said check for neutral pH, I would've done so, however the literature did not say anything other than flushing with DI or Ultra Pure- I flushed twice with DI. The website still does not mention verifying pH (I only gave it a quick look). Maybe he's updated other instructions now, but I still have the bottle of Pastels that has absolutely no mention of pH on it. So, from my perspective, I used a product and followed the included directions from the manufacturer, but was still deemed at fault when the product failed to perform and received no support. *For that I stand by my 0/10 rating.* That doesn't even get into his awful attitude and condescending demeanor- I won't miss him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see your point. IMO there needs to be a bit more hand-holding for noobies (like me) because if you check on the website for example, it states:
> 
> "Before Using Mayhems Pastel Range the system must be clean and have *no chemicals* of any kind left in the loop."
> 
> Now, to my understanding, the color distortion is caused by the coolant reacting with the leftover flux from the manufacturing process of radiators. *I don't know a whole lot about metal and whatnot* but from Wikipedia, it states that flux "is a *chemical* cleaning agent, flowing agent, or purifying agent." So in a way, it does state it indirectly but for someone new to these types of coolants, that's a BIG leap they would have to make to know this.
Click to expand...

Typically flux is painted on/around or is in solder surfaces to prevent oxidation. Go get two pieces of aluminum and try to solder them together. You will never be able to solder them together. When metal heats up it becomes more prone to oxidation. When you try to fuse metals and one of the metals has oxidation the other metal can't fuse. Flux around the solder joints prevents this oxidation, and allows the metals to fuse. The flux itself can take many forms, it can be around the solder, it can be in the solder, or it can be a paste that is painted around the solder joint.
-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I don't believe I attacked Mick. I simply stated the facts of my situation and, in light of the new information regarding the pH sensitivity of the product, advised that I would prefer a comparable product that did not suffer from the same issue. Regardless if I was a direct customer or indirect, I don't think that should change the support offered. A sponsor may not receive cash for the product, but they do receive publicity and advertisement- in many cases this exposure is more valuable than the product being offered (probably the case with a product like this coolant). Just because cash doesn't change hands doesn't mean support shouldn't be offered. You think the people who win cars on shows like The Price is Right are denied warranty service on their *won* automobiles or aren't considered *real* customers by the sponsor who provided them? Of course not.
> 
> Looking back at the conversation, I think its hilarious that the first 'solution' offered to me was actually a sales pitch for the Blitz product. "Product not working as expected? Well let me take this opportunity to sell you something that may fix your problem". That's not amazing customer service.
> 
> Do I believe I am taking this too far? No, not really. I've long since stopped using his product, but that interaction was so poor I have no problem continuing to post my experiences so that others need not go through the frustration I have.


"He told me contaminants from my coolants wacked out my loop and told me the solution to prevent that from happening. What terrible customer service."

It's not the coolants fault there was contaminants in your loop, and it's not Mayhems fault you didn't do your homework.
http://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/support/msds-sheets

MSDS Sheets with all information on coolants, including stable pH ranges.

-Z
[Edit] Fixed quote name [/edit]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I guess you missed the dated photos I had included in the gallery. The coolant did not last 2 years- it didn't even make it to six months. I don't know how seeking support when a product doesn't meet the expectation set by the manufacturer could be classified as seeking free stuff. At its core, this issue was a RMA request that was denied because I didn't follow non-existent directions that were only provided after the product had failed. Seriously think about that. That would not fly with any other product in any other industry. *Say a GPU manufacturer denied RMA on your 6 month old GPU because you failed to allow proper ventilation. You look at the instructions for installing the card and it doesn't say to allow proper ventilation and you want your 2yr warranty upheld, but you're told you will not be getting a replacement.* Are you going to just accept that? What do you say to the random forum member who then assumes that you must be looking for free stuff?


There, fixed that for you. Again, if you didn't do your homework that's you own issue. You obviously have a computer and internet access. You wouldn't buy a CPU heatsink without doing homework as to it's known issues or lack thereof, nor should you buy anything without doing your homework. Refusing to oblige with the recommendations of customer service is how you get refused an RMA. Lets be honest here, you were told the issue and the solution and you refused to cooperate. (Blitz your system) even if mick did send you a new bottle of pastel you had already refused to clean your system properly. The coolant would have went bad again and you'd been right back to square one of demanding another RMA.

-Z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> TBF the only person who forced mick to leave was mick.
> 
> Money has nothing to do with it. He is free to come back and offer support for his products without any money changing hands as he has done in the past.
> 
> There is a difference between offering support for products and advertising products.
> 
> Anyone wondering what the differences are for free and paying reps please read this article.
> http://www.overclock.net/a/posting-guidelines-for-hardware-vendor-and-manufacturer-reps


There's a difference between advertising and describing a product B&B. If Mick had been pushing his product, spamming how great it was, and the sort I could see that argument. All I had seen him doing (and I've watched this thread like a hawk for a while now) was answering questions regarding his product, and posting technical information on his product. If he had been going to other threads and saying "Hey, try my product instead" yeah the argument would be 110% true. He had posts taken down because it contained technical information on one of Mayhems products. The rules and regs treat this the same as advertising his product. This is the Mayhems users Club... We come here to learn about mayhems products, and/or seek support. If the rules/regs are preventing him from distributing information about Mayhems products on the Mayhems Users Club there's a problem. You'd think a forum administration would be happy a manufacturer has chosen to use their form to release details on new upcoming products, instead the OCN rules and regs treat it like advertising and the mods remove it.

It's not just Mick that has an issue with OCNs rather absurdly strict rules & regs. We've lost a lot of good community members. Third party testing roundups and reviews are a mostly a thing of the past on OCN because people can't post sponsored reviews because apparently that's just blatant advertisement. Well yeah, maybe it could be viewed as advertisement but it's not them pushing their product, nor is it damaging to the community. If anything such sponsorships help the community. Reputable OCN reviews get to conduct more testing with products, the OCN Laymen get more resources to help them decide, OCN gets more traffic because they have good testing, and the manufacturer and/or reseller gets publicity. Now, it might be just me but I don't see any loss there. Still, the rules and regs have blatantly wiped 3rd party testing with sponsorships because the regs treat it no differently than advertisement. Even when people do post testing/reviews/roundups the testing is typically removed because there was some vague form of sponsorship.

To say Mick is the only one who pushed Mick away is absurd. This issue has come up time and time again with many different users, and OCN has refused to change their policy on their rules and regs. As a result OCN is losing a lot traffic, losing a lot of potential content from reputable individuals, and losing a lot of users, that is certain.

Make no mistake, I have immense respect to the staff at OCN. They do a great job of keeping petty and uncivil behavior out of the threads, as well as keep the forums very well organized and clean. The administration of OCN needs to revise their policy or they will continue to lose support from the community, which has been happening, is happening, and will continue to happen unless these absurd cut-throat policies are revised.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> That's why they said "no, why should we when we already carry the Mayhems pastels" because they're the same thing.
> 
> 
> 
> Same dye, maybe not the same solution.
Click to expand...

Quite the opposite, same solution, slightly different dye. Pastel was originally a modified version of Ice Dragon Coolant. It's evolved far beyond it's original formula since then. EK Pastel is Mayhems OEM Pastel with slightly different colours.

-Z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I ordered 10 feet of the new Mayhems Ultra Clear Tubing for my Caselabs SMA8 build. Ill be using the Pastel Ice white. I have 7/16 XSPC fittings, so I hope I don't have any issues with the 3/8 size


Aside from it being a pita to get the tube over the fitting there shouldn't be any other issues.

-Z


----------



## SteezyTN

@ZytheEKS, you quoted the wrong person because I never wrote that where it talks about the GPU manufacture. That was the guy who is giving Mayhems the 0/10 haha.

And if it wasn't for you, I would've never boughten the 3/8 tubing







Thanks because I was so close to getting the Primoflex Advanced LRT


----------



## Mayhem

Quick post

New bottles and New labels. (this is not a sales post its a update to current products as asked by OCN's forum Members)



You ask, we listen.

The new bottles have a much wider neck for easy pour, the bottle are heat sealed with a foil none leaching liner, The bottle can hold 1150ml so have a 150ml air gap for expansion and contraction when being shifted on a plane and will not leak or fracture at the seam. The wall is thicker, the bottles are more stable, they also have a tamper evident easy to see ring (if this is broken refuse the bottle and send back).









The label has been updated with PH Stability information (Ph working range), Updated Cleaning instructions, Date of manufacturer, Date to be sold by, date to be used by.

Sorry due to the new bottle design we cannot use a Child safety cap how ever we are working and will have a mold made for us to create a CSC in the future, but this will take a long time.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> SNIP
> 
> -Z


We obviously have two very different viewpoints on what constitutes acceptable support, adequate documentation, and reasonable troubleshooting. I'm fairly certain I've already addressed the points you brought up in my other posts including why using Blitz was not acceptable, my preference for a less pH sensitive dye, why I felt the documentation was poor, and why the 'do your homework/research' POV is flawed to me. It's all there, but I don't blame you for merely giving my posts a cursory scan.

I think I've laid my position, reasoning and point of view out ad nauseam. You guys can continue to quote my replies and bring up points that I have already discussed with other members, but at this point there really is nothing left to add, no minds to be changed, no situation to be rectified, and no new evidence to evaluate.

If anything new does arise, I'll be waiting-> And look at that, new bottles with more details on proper usage including pH and cleaning. Maybe what I brought up wasn't so unreasonable after all?


----------



## stanneveld

Omg look like hip flasks
Looks good, way better then the old ones.
I love dates on them.
Think i might just try one, if you sniff that does it make you see all weird colors, and gives kind of a "happy" feeling like the X1 does ?


----------



## tipes

Snip

If anything new does arise, I'll be waiting-> And look at that, new bottles with more details on proper usage including pH and cleaning. Maybe what I brought up wasn't so unreasonable after all?[/quote]

Don't flatter yourself.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quick post
> 
> New bottles and New labels. (this is not a sales post its a update to current products as asked by OCN's forum Members)
> 
> You ask, we listen.
> 
> The new bottles have a much wider neck for easy pour, the bottle are heat sealed with a foil none leaching liner, The bottle can hold 1150ml so have a 150ml air gap for expansion and contraction when being shifted on a plane and will not leak or fracture at the seam. The wall is thicker, the bottles are more stable, they also have a tamper evident easy to see ring (if this is broken refuse the bottle and send back).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The label has been updated with PH Stability information (Ph working range), Updated Cleaning instructions, Date of manufacturer, Date to be sold by, date to be used by.
> 
> Sorry due to the new bottle design we cannot use a Child safety cap how ever we are working and will have a mold made for us to create a CSC in the future, but this will take a long time.


Fantastic, the new bottles look a lot higher quality. Always bugged me buying coolant from some manufacturers to open up a soggy cardboard box with a bunch of wet bottles. If that foil seal over the opening is any good that will resolve a lot of that, nice idea.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanneveld*
> 
> Omg look like hip flasks
> Looks good, way better then the old ones.
> I love dates on them.
> Think i might just try one, if you sniff that does it make you see all weird colors, and gives kind of a "happy" feeling like the X1 does ?


BRB buying X1


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quick post
> 
> New bottles and New labels. (this is not a sales post its a update to current products as asked by OCN's forum Members)
> 
> 
> 
> You ask, we listen.
> 
> The new bottles have a much wider neck for easy pour, the bottle are heat sealed with a foil none leaching liner, The bottle can hold 1150ml so have a 150ml air gap for expansion and contraction when being shifted on a plane and will not leak or fracture at the seam. The wall is thicker, the bottles are more stable, they also have a tamper evident easy to see ring (if this is broken refuse the bottle and send back).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The label has been updated with PH Stability information (Ph working range), Updated Cleaning instructions, Date of manufacturer, Date to be sold by, date to be used by.
> 
> Sorry due to the new bottle design we cannot use a Child safety cap how ever we are working and will have a mold made for us to create a CSC in the future, but this will take a long time.


Are those coming to EK any soon?


----------



## DanBr

Mayhems X1 Coolant question

Sizes
100 ml Concentrate. Enough to make 1 Ltrs of coolant
250 ml Concentrate. Enough to make 2 Ltrs of coolant

Do you mix with distilled water?
thanks

Why does the 100 ml make 1 liter and 250 ml only make 2 liters


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> .
> 
> There's a difference between advertising and describing a product B&B. If Mick had been pushing his product, spamming how great it was, and the sort I could see that argument. All I had seen him doing (and I've watched this thread like a hawk for a while now) was answering questions regarding his product, and posting technical information on his product. If he had been going to other threads and saying "Hey, try my product instead" yeah the argument would be 110% true. He had posts taken down because it contained technical information on one of Mayhems products. The rules and regs treat this the same as advertising his product. This is the Mayhems users Club... We come here to learn about mayhems products, and/or seek support. If the rules/regs are preventing him from distributing information about Mayhems products on the Mayhems Users Club there's a problem. You'd think a forum administration would be happy a manufacturer has chosen to use their form to release details on new upcoming products, instead the OCN rules and regs treat it like advertising and the mods remove it.
> 
> It's not just Mick that has an issue with OCNs rather absurdly strict rules & regs. We've lost a lot of good community members. Third party testing roundups and reviews are a mostly a thing of the past on OCN because people can't post sponsored reviews because apparently that's just blatant advertisement. Well yeah, maybe it could be viewed as advertisement but it's not them pushing their product, nor is it damaging to the community. If anything such sponsorships help the community. Reputable OCN reviews get to conduct more testing with products, the OCN Laymen get more resources to help them decide, OCN gets more traffic because they have good testing, and the manufacturer and/or reseller gets publicity. Now, it might be just me but I don't see any loss there. Still, the rules and regs have blatantly wiped 3rd party testing with sponsorships because the regs treat it no differently than advertisement. Even when people do post testing/reviews/roundups the testing is typically removed because there was some vague form of sponsorship.
> 
> To say Mick is the only one who pushed Mick away is absurd. This issue has come up time and time again with many different users, and OCN has refused to change their policy on their rules and regs. As a result OCN is losing a lot traffic, losing a lot of potential content from reputable individuals, and losing a lot of users, that is certain.
> 
> Make no mistake, I have immense respect to the staff at OCN. They do a great job of keeping petty and uncivil behavior out of the threads, as well as keep the forums very well organized and clean. The administration of OCN needs to revise their policy or they will continue to lose support from the community, which has been happening, is happening, and will continue to happen unless these absurd cut-throat policies are revised.
> 
> -Z


Very well said Z! I agree completely!


----------



## SteezyTN

I'm currently taking down my loop and trying to salvage the coolant. This way I don't have to spend an additional $40. I'm surprised with how dirty my loop is. I ran mayhems blitz part one and two, and I'm getting all this gunk out of the Pastel Ice White. The coolant is still a nice white. Almost as if it's brand new













Thanks Mick for telling me about the coffee filter. I didn't have one, so I used a hankerchied instead


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Yeah, if he really is so helpful, then he would stay here anyway.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Are those coming to EK any soon?


Guess your Glad he Stuck around.....









TCO

Normally Wouldn't say something like this, but that Comment pissed me off. Then, the nerve to ask him something, after belittling a business owner.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Guess your Glad he Stuck around.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> Normally Wouldn't say something like this, but that Comment pissed me off. Then, *the nerve to ask him something, after belittling a business owner.*


QFT. .


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'm currently taking down my loop and trying to salvage the coolant. This way I don't have to spend an additional $40. I'm surprised with how dirty my loop is. I ran mayhems blitz part one and two, and I'm getting all this gunk out of the Pastel Ice White. The coolant is still a nice white. Almost as if it's brand new
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Mick for telling me about the coffee filter. I didn't have one, so I used a hankerchied instead


Did you by any chance fill the rads up with distilled, shake the hell out of them, and empty? I think I gotta do that when my new rads arrive since I'm trying pastel out.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Guess your Glad he Stuck around.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> Normally Wouldn't say something like this, but that Comment pissed me off. Then, the nerve to ask him something, after belittling a business owner.


I did not try to be offensive in my previous comment - I only stated my opinion, that he could stay here. Because, well, he COULD. Nobody really forced him out because he was helping people here.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*


I'm actually waiting for Mayhems Pastel Clear to hit the market.

I like watching those bubbles.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I'm actually waiting for Mayhems Pastel Clear to hit the market.
> 
> I like watching those bubbles.


"Pastel Clear". I'm not even gonna say anything...


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I'm actually waiting for Mayhems Pastel Clear to hit the market.
> 
> I like watching those bubbles.


I just cant think of a response to this.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Did you by any chance fill the rads up with distilled, shake the hell out of them, and empty? I think I gotta do that when my new rads arrive since I'm trying pastel out.


I did multiple times AND ran blitz part 1 and 2. I was only doing this because I'm adding new coolant to it to make an additional 2 liters without wasting it. It's only 3 or 4 months old.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I did multiple times AND ran blitz part 1 and 2. I was only doing this because I'm adding new coolant to it to make an additional 2 liters without wasting it. It's only 3 or 4 months old.


Aww man, I was hoping just to run the flux killer part in my rads and call it a day :/ What rads are you using that are that dirty?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Aww man, I was hoping just to run the flux killer part in my rads and call it a day :/ What rads are you using that are that dirty?


RX360, RX240 and EX240. I'm building in a new case and I can fit an additional 480 and 560, so I bought the kit again to clean those out. I had a little extra, so I added more distilled and put that in my RX360 and RX240. Today I'm going to flush them out and start assembling it in my caselabs SMA8 that's coming today


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Aww man, I was hoping just to run the flux killer part in my rads and call it a day :/ What rads are you using that are that dirty?


Always always ALWAYS use part two if you use part 1. Part 1 has 1 job: To strip any flux and contaminants. Part 2 is a pH neutralizers and powerful surfactant. Part one will strip flux from the solder joints, but is not guaranteed to physically remove it from the rad. Part 2 being a heavy surfactant will be very near guaranteed to hold any contaminants in suspension, so when you drain it it will physically remove them from the loop. It also eliminates any pH imbalances. It only take a couple drops of Muriatic acid to bring the pH down to 2, and while part 1 definitely isn't muriatic acid it's still a powerful acid so the same concept applies. If even a small bit of diluted acid remains in the loop it could seriously wack out the pH. Part 2 is crucial if you use part one. (Part 2 can be used without part 1, but not vice versa.)

-Z


----------



## Anateus

Is blitz necessary for EK radiators, or soda/vinegar flush will be enough?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'd say blitz every rad personally


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Here is Ek's answer to using Blitz
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> All of our radiators are factory flushed prior being packed. The chemicals used in soldering process are water-soluble hence there is no need to use any acidic or basic cleaning agents.
> 
> Please refrain from using any 'blitz' with your radiator. Using pure vinegar is also not recommended.
> 
> Normally as a final precaution a final flush with distilled water by user is enough and no further steps are necessary.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Niko


http://www.overclock.net/t/1570002/cleaning-radiators/0_100#post_24310596


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Here is Ek's answer to using Blitz
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1570002/cleaning-radiators/0_100#post_24310596


Thank you. Couple of bucks saved then


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Here is Ek's answer to using Blitz
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1570002/cleaning-radiators/0_100#post_24310596


Damn. $40 wasted on Blitz Pro then :/


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Damn. $40 wasted on Blitz Pro then :/


Regardless of what people say, I'll continue to use blitz on my radiators. Why? Because Mayhems says that the Pastel colors are pH sensitive, and I'd rather spend money to avoid having to buy more coolant every dang month. It seems like people who don't blitz their rads and loops, their pastel colors change in a short amount of time. With people who blitz them, they seem to never have problems. I'll take my chances and spend $80 total to be safe, rather than lose $80 in coolant and have to buy $80 more if it changes.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Regardless of what people say, I'll continue to use blitz on my radiators. Why? Because Mayhems says that the Pastel colors are pH sensitive, and I'd rather spend money to avoid having to buy more coolant every dang month. It seems like people who don't blitz their rads and loops, their pastel colors change in a short amount of time. With people who blitz them, they seem to never have problems. I'll take my chances and spend $80 total to be safe, rather than lose $80 in coolant and have to buy $80 more if it changes.


Still haven't used blitz once on the SMA8. The Orange I had a problem with. The Blueberry pastel is keeping its color.

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Still haven't used blitz once on the SMA8. The Orange I had a problem with. The Blueberry pastel is keeping its color.
> 
> TCO


I thought Mayhems sent you some? Dang lol. Oh well. Already bought and used them haha


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I thought Mayhems sent you some? Dang lol. Oh well. Already bought and used them haha


No He didn't send me the Blitz. I ended up just flushing the system with distilled and put in the Blueberry after. He sent me Aurora 2 for the S3 in lue of the Blitz.

TCO


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No He didn't send me the Blitz. I ended up just flushing the system with distilled and put in the Blueberry after. He sent me Aurora 2 for the S3 in lue of the Blitz.
> 
> TCO


He said orange, red, and yellow are really sensitive so it makes sense blue and green aren't giving you trouble.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> He said orange, red, and yellow are really sensitive so it makes sense blue and green aren't giving you trouble.


It makes sense, that orange turned quick broski!

TCO


----------



## Mayhem

Ill just say on here guys this is important.

*DO NOT USE MAYHEMS BLITZ PRO ON ALUMINUM RADS ESPECIALLY THERMALTAKE ZINC PLATED ALUMINUM RADS. MAYHEMS BASIC (MAYHEMS BLITZ PART 2) IS FINE BUT DO NOT USE PART 1.*

The acid in part 1 will strip the zinc plating with in 30 min and ruin the rad. We have all-ways said from day one do not use on aluminum rads.


----------



## emsj86

Just flushed my ut480 and man it just keep coming. I had 20 of these bowls before it stopped. I was kinda happy to see his as I didn't flush my swiftech or xspc 360 on my current build and had some build up in the cpu channels that looked just like this. Which is good because at least I know what it is and was if that makes sense


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Just flushed my ut480 and man it just keep coming. I had 20 of these bowls before it stopped. I was kinda happy to see his as I didn't flush my swiftech or xspc 360 on my current build and had some build up in the cpu channels that looked just like this. Which is good because at least I know what it is and was if that makes sense


I ran my 3-4 month old Pastel ice white through some coffee filters because I was going to be adding more to make more for my huge loop. This is what came out...



This is also after I blitzed my rads and ran part 2.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


That's aurora? Looks more like pastel. Is it clearer in person? Mine was difficult to show on camera but I really don't see any of the swirling in your video. Sweet build either way


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> That's aurora? Looks more like pastel. Is it clearer in person? Mine was difficult to show on camera but I really don't see any of the swirling in your video. Sweet build either way


You can see it, its just not that visable thanks to low contrast in the video.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> That's aurora? Looks more like pastel. Is it clearer in person? Mine was difficult to show on camera but I really don't see any of the swirling in your video. Sweet build either way


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> You can see it, its just not that visable thanks to low contrast in the video.


I am going to have to use the PMW header of the DDC to slow the Flow down a tad. 100% is pushing the fluid to fast and was causing a froth effect.

TCO


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am going to have to use the PMW header of the DDC to slow the Flow down a tad. 100% is pushing the fluid to fast and was causing a froth effect.
> 
> TCO


Do you just build PCs all day?


----------



## PerfectTekniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Do you just build PCs all day?


The Life.


----------



## 414347

Hi guys,
Recently I was introduced to Mayhems product and for a while I've been using their Biocide Extreme and distilled water with great results







, water is crystal clear, no sign of any slime or growing microorganism.

2 weeks ago I decided to remove front 240 Radiator ( Nemesis GTX Ultra Stealth) so I thought, why not do a good clean of my whole system ( 4x 480 Nemesis GTX Ultra Stealth, CPU, Chip, VRM and 3x Titan Black Heatkiller blocks. I only mentioned to Mick at Mayhems once about possibly trying the Blitz Basic Cleaning System, Mick graciously sent me that product free of charge due to little mishap during transportation with my previous purchase, which was none of their fault, I was very happy and appreciative.

After using the Blitz Part 2 I was impressed with the final result I thought I would purchase few more of them (3-4 maybe) for myself and my wife's workstations and some for future maintenance but before I do I need some additional inquiry which I couldn't find anywhere I never got the response and I have sent Mick email inquiries on at least 3 different occasions during past week or two, Is that normal for those guys not to respond, simple answer would have been just fine, after all I want to get more of their product, but now I have doubts I am little disappointed I was under the impression that their support is exceptional.

Their products are great, but I believe support afterwards is big part of overall experience I am lost for words here, have any of you experience similar behavior









Ps. All I want it to know is how often you can and its recommend to use that cleaner part 2 if distilled water is used only before worrying about damaging any of the hardware (if there is any possible risk of damage) due to frequent usage.
Also, what's the shelf storage if kept in dark cold place, is that so much to ask


----------



## 1911Savage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Their products are great, but I believe support afterwards is big part of overall experience I am lost for words here, have any of you experience similar behavior


A month ago he was supposed to send me a bottle of pastel lime yellow concentrate (I didn't ask for it; he offered because of a mistake on their part) and I haven't got it yet. This was during the time that he left OCN and started his own forum. I guess he got busy and forgot. Oh, well.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1911Savage*
> 
> A month ago he was supposed to send me a bottle of pastel lime yellow concentrate (I didn't ask for it; he offered because of a mistake on their part) and I haven't got it yet. This was during the time that he left OCN and started his own forum. I guess he got busy and forgot. Oh, well.


He comes on here once in a while and post. Maybe shoot him a friendly reminder.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> A month ago he was supposed to send me a bottle of pastel lime yellow concentrate (I didn't ask for it; he offered because of a mistake on their part) and I haven't got it yet. This was during the time that he left OCN and started his own forum. I guess he got busy and forgot. Oh, well.


Your circumstance vary from mine. Like SteezyTN said, he might have just forgotten during busy times and quick reminder won't hurt. My situation is a bit different, it seems like he is avoiding answering simple questions and I actually reviewed and rated that product Excellent and give 5 star, beats me. I was hoping to get few more boxes but now my excitement its slowly decreasing I am old school guy, it's imperative that customer service is on par if not better than product itself.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PerfectTekniq*
> 
> The Life.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Do you just build PCs all day?


Negative You Two! I do not build them all day everyday. I just have time when I get off of work, although now since I have finished the S3 and it is at work with me I might be able to delve into some overclocking while "Working"









TCO


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Your circumstance vary from mine. Like SteezyTN said, he might have just forgotten during busy times and quick reminder won't hurt My situation is a bit different, it seems like he is avoiding answering simple questions and I actually reviewed and rated that product Excellent and give 5 star, beats me. I was hoping to get few more boxes but now my excitement its slowly decreasing I am old school guy, it's imperative that customer service is on par if not better than product itself.


If you went over to Mayhems official forum he has a post about expanding his facility, which would be pretty god reasoning behind slow response. As far as I know this is practically a one man (or less than a handful) show. My experience has been nothing but extremely prompt and helpful.

Quoted from Mayhems own post on his forum:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhems*
> We've out grown Mayhems production head quarters ..... Time to double up and upgrade ... 4 offices, 1 factory room, 2 storage areas ...... Moving with in the next 3 weeks...... Business will continue as usual ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohhhhhh Yeehhhhhh


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Negative You Two! I do not build them all day everyday. I just have time when I get off of work, although now since I have finished the S3 and it is at work with me I might be able to delve into some overclocking while "Working"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Ahh, you seem to grace us with your build videos quite often which is why I thought that. Btw, you ever going to switch up the video plot? It's always like, first 90% show off the PC, do some slow panning, etc. then next 10%, stare at the camera. Just gets repetitive ya know, like the plot to an M. Night Shamallamalon movie.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Ahh, you seem to grace us with your build videos quite often which is why I thought that. Btw, you ever going to switch up the video plot? It's always like, first 90% show off the PC, do some slow panning, etc. then next 10%, stare at the camera. Just gets repetitive ya know, like the plot to an M. Night Shamallamalon movie.












Well, I suppose I could, although I am not here to impress you, It's to show the loop in most cases, of how the fluid flows and sometimes, how fast it flows. They are meant to be informative. I show myself sometimes to remind you guys I don't look like a computer









Though if you want me to dance around I suppose I could do that once in a while









TCO


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I suppose I could, although I am not here to impress you, It's to show the loop in most cases, of how the fluid flows and sometimes, how fast it flows. They are meant to be informative. I show myself sometimes to remind you guys I don't look like a computer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though if you want me to dance around I suppose I could do that once in a while
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Just something new like, showcasing the PC when it's off and then you pressing the button to turn it on but the second before your finger hits the button it cuts off to your face for 20 seconds and then back to pressing the button and the computer turning on. That would be new and exciting.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> If you went over to Mayhems official forum he has a post about expanding his facility, which would be pretty god reasoning behind slow response. As far as I know this is practically a one man (or less than a handful) show. My experience has been nothing but extremely prompt and helpful


Yes I was aware of that, that's why when I emailed Mick and Steve the first time 2 weeks ago I wasn't on hurry to get their answer, but 2 weeks, it seems little extensive time to be totally silent, but really, it doesn't matter.

Yes I realize 1-2 man operation is difficult to juggle between all necessary tasks, that's why I'm not totally getting down on them, and with all fairness, they did send me Product free of charge which is wonderful, I don't forget things like that I guess I'm just tiny disappointed, no big deal


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Just something new like, showcasing the PC when it's off and then you pressing the button to turn it on but the second before your finger hits the button it cuts off to your face for 20 seconds and then back to pressing the button and the computer turning on. That would be new and exciting.












Someone needs to give you an Award









TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1911Savage*
> 
> A month ago he was supposed to send me a bottle of pastel lime yellow concentrate (I didn't ask for it; he offered because of a mistake on their part) and I haven't got it yet. This was during the time that he left OCN and started his own forum. I guess he got busy and forgot. Oh, well.


Same here and same time frame. He was sending replacement bottles (3) of pastel black and also mentioned was going to give a Blitz part II for me and was going to send it via PPC to speed things up for me. I already shot 3 PMs to him and to the mayhems support page and no response.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone needs to give you an Award
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


You better listen to him. That sounds hilarious.


----------



## Anateus

I want to try Mayhems non stain red and blue dyes in high concentration before I buy appropriate pastel colour. If I flush my loop thoroughly after using them, there is no need to worry about any reactions with pastels, right?


----------



## Mayhem

NewUser16 we have your 4 emails how ever for some stupid reason we cannot email Hotmail accounts and we do not know why, were trying to sort it, you'll find i responded to most using my very own privet email from yahoo, how ever now im having issues accessing that from our new home ... (nothing every goes easy), My new address doesn't have broadband and it will take me 6 weeks to get it and im connected via a 0.05mb line (yes its that dammed slow) and since we get about 50mbs worth of spam a day you can understand why our email system in the new place is having massive issues.

Please bear with us while we sort it or ask your questions in here were ppl can respond to you or just use our own forum







.

P.s we have just moved over to a new place that is 3 x larger than our old place ...

Mick


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> NewUser16 we have your 4 emails how ever for some stupid reason we cannot email Hotmail accounts and we do not know why, were trying to sort it, you'll find i responded to most using my very own privet email from yahoo, how ever now im having issues accessing that from our new home ... (nothing every goes easy), My new address doesn't have broadband and it will take me 6 weeks to get it and im connected via a 0.05mb line (yes its that dammed slow) and since we get about 50mbs worth of spam a day you can understand why our email system in the new place is having massive issues.
> 
> Please bear with us while we sort it or ask your questions in here were ppl can respond to you or just use our own forum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> P.s we have just moved over to a new place that is 3 x larger than our old place ...
> 
> Mick


You guys must be doing good then, good to hear it.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> NewUser16 we have your 4 emails how ever for some stupid reason we cannot email Hotmail accounts and we do not know why, were trying to sort it, you'll find i responded to most using my very own privet email from yahoo, how ever now im having issues accessing that from our new home ... (nothing every goes easy), My new address doesn't have broadband and it will take me 6 weeks to get it and im connected via a 0.05mb line (yes its that dammed slow) and since we get about 50mbs worth of spam a day you can understand why our email system in the new place is having massive issues.
> 
> Please bear with us while we sort it or ask your questions in here were ppl can respond to you or just use our own forum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> P.s we have just moved over to a new place that is 3 x larger than our old place ...
> 
> Mick


Uh oh. Dealing with british internet providers.. Worst experience ever


----------



## Mayhem

Lol yeh Virgin said we can have 4gb fiber (up and down) with in two weeks or normal internet 150mb in 6 weeks .. i aint paying £300+ for internet that's for sure. BT connection is 4mb ROTFLMAO and my mobile is 0.05mb


----------



## OGBeandip

And Im over here in the US with my 10mb that ends up being 8 more than half the time.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Lol yeh Virgin said we can have 4gb fiber (up and down) with in two weeks or normal internet 150mb in 6 weeks .. i aint paying £300+ for internet that's for sure. BT connection is 4mb ROTFLMAO and my mobile is 0.05mb


I like how you called 150Mb normal








Meanwhile, Im stuck with slow 60Mb till the end of the year..


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> NewUser16 we have your 4 emails how ever for some stupid reason we cannot email Hotmail accounts and we do not know why, were trying to sort it, you'll find i responded to most using my very own privet email from yahoo, how ever now im having issues accessing that from our new home ... (nothing every goes easy), My new address doesn't have broadband and it will take me 6 weeks to get it and im connected via a 0.05mb line (yes its that dammed slow) and since we get about 50mbs worth of spam a day you can understand why our email system in the new place is having massive issues.
> 
> Please bear with us while we sort it or ask your questions in here were ppl can respond to you or just use our own forum wink.gif.
> 
> P.s we have just moved over to a new place that is 3 x larger than our old place ...
> 
> Mick


I understand, please accept my apology for pushing too hard and not been patient enough.
I wish you guys smooth transition of moving and settling with new place of business to your liking.
Thanks again


----------



## RhinoJC

Gday mayhem and other dyers.

I am not sure if this question has been answered already, but i will shoot anyway. Can a too basic solution also cause your dyes to lose color (ie pH greater than 8)?

I have made the mistake of adding too much biocide to my loop and i think the acidity had caused the dyes to fade. I plan on draining the loop and getting the ph right. In the meantime, i want to add some bicarb to the loop the way it is and do some color testing. I will probably end up adding to much bicarb.

Thanks for having a look.


----------



## Mayhem

yes all dyes have a ph range and if they fall out of that range issues can happen such as losing color. Once you lose colour there is no way to get it back apart from starting again. You can use Mayhems Blitz Basic to restore your system to full health. You can use Bicarb as well with 1 table spoon to 1 Ltr but don't forget to flush afterwards how ever bicarb wont clean you system or do the same just as blitz basic.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> *snip*
> Ps. All I want it to know is how often you can and its recommend to use that cleaner part 2 if distilled water is used only before worrying about damaging any of the hardware (if there is any possible risk of damage) due to frequent usage.
> Also, what's the shelf storage if kept in dark cold place, is that so much to ask


Part 2 is essentially dish soap on steroids. It's a super effective surfactant (i.e. it makes things slippery and picks things up) and pH neutralizer. It should be safe for repetitive use. As to shelf life, that likely depends on the individual mixture. Different countries have different rules/regs, and as such Blitz is mixed in different concentrations depending on your country. There should be a leaflet included with any information required. Beyond that, it's hard to say as it's likely different from area to area.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> If you went over to Mayhems official forum he has a post about expanding his facility, which would be pretty god reasoning behind slow response. As far as I know this is practically a one man (or less than a handful) show. My experience has been nothing but extremely prompt and helpful
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I was aware of that, that's why when I emailed Mick and Steve the first time 2 weeks ago I wasn't on hurry to get their answer, but 2 weeks, it seems little extensive time to be totally silent, but really, it doesn't matter.
> 
> Yes I realize 1-2 man operation is difficult to juggle between all necessary tasks, that's why I'm not totally getting down on them, and with all fairness, they did send me Product free of charge which is wonderful, I don't forget things like that I guess I'm just tiny disappointed, no big deal
Click to expand...

I was going to say Mayhems has had a history of their email servers not receiving emails, refusing to respond to certain IPs, email providers, etc. but it looks like Mick beat me to it.









-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> And Im over here in the US with my 10mb that ends up being 8 more than half the time.


Just go over too Google fiber's website and kiss their arse until they expand to your area. Also, we're paying for 300Mb/s down, 100Mb/s up here and only getting 60Mb/s down, and 20Mb/s on a good day (far worse on a bad day). Cable companies are the devil.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Kill me later weve just paid for and have now upgraded to exchange server (emails), this should solve all our issues ref emails, we are also moving from a 1gig dedicated line to a 10 gig dedicated line for the site again solving a lot of issues. Mayhems.net is also being upgraded at some point to host more water cooling, modding related content.

Basicly big things happening right now and more to come.


----------



## 7akata

Happy to hear it Mick. Love the products and it's my go-to coolant.


----------



## 414347

Yes, that is great news, improvements and upgrades will benefit everyone
Good luck


----------



## OGBeandip

Good to hear mayhems is expanding. Good luck with the proccess.


----------



## RhinoJC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> yes all dyes have a ph range and if they fall out of that range issues can happen such as losing color. Once you lose colour there is no way to get it back apart from starting again. You can use Mayhems Blitz Basic to restore your system to full health. You can use Bicarb as well with 1 table spoon to 1 Ltr but don't forget to flush afterwards how ever bicarb wont clean you system or do the same just as blitz basic.


Thank you for your reply. It's pretty difficult to get the cleaning kits in australia. When i was last on your website, the shipping cost for the cleaning kit was quite high from what i remember. I'll have to clean the loop without it. Is it OK and effective to fill the loop with diluted vinegar and run for 24 hours, drain then flush thoroughly?


----------



## RhinoJC

By the way, all my blocks and rads are EK, if that makes any difference.


----------



## catbuster

cant receive activation email for mayhems forums, yes i am using hotmail...


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## Anateus

Maybe its time to leave hotmail behind and embrace gmail?


----------



## catbuster

i have gmail acc and i use gmail at work, but prefer hotmail/outlook ui way more, gonna wait a day or so maybe they will fix the issue


----------



## 7akata

I didn't even know people still used hotmail!


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## Anateus

Its quite popular among the brits. No idea why. And its even more weird that Mayhems provider blocks it


----------



## OGBeandip

Whats even weirder is how common AOL still is in the USA


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## Mayhem

catbuster sorted you should now be able to use your email.


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## 414347

It's not that hotmail gets blocked or was getting blocked by Mayhems provider, even when I got responds from Mick, it was marked as spam and moved to junk and that happened few times, regardless of me marking it as NON junk.

I do a quite a bit business with Watercool Heatkiller in Germany, they had issues with receiving and sending emails via-Hotmail as well, whether was them or my provider, who knows, it seems things got sort out now as I have no longer problem with incoming and outgoing Hotmail at least from them


----------



## Mayhem

Our forum was linked to our old email system, Since we are now changing over to exchange server the forum email response and setup no longer works







. While moving over to the new exchange server all our old emails will not migrate so were having issues there. Simply put its all gone to poo lol. Were going to work on it all when i get back from insomnia.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Our forum was linked to our old email system, Since we are now changing over to exchange server the forum email response and setup no longer works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . While moving over to the new exchange server all our old emails will not migrate so were having issues there. Simply put its all gone to poo lol. Were going to work on it all when i get back from insomnia.


I've backed up/moved maybe 100GB of emails before. Wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy. Unfortunately using the easier process of Outlook to move emails to the new account was not an option.


----------



## RhinoJC

Found some blitz in australia. Have ordered it. Will clean the system and whack in some white pastel uv. If i add some deep purple dye to it, will the uv effect still be good?


----------



## Anateus

Is raspberry purple pastel less pH sensitive than others? I've ordered full EK loop, and they say just flush it with water, no need for blitz.


----------



## 7akata

I thought I read somewhere that purple was middle of the road for sensitivity. No source though. I'm running it in some XSPC rads I flushed with just RO water (and they were super clean apparently) and haven't had any color change.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is raspberry purple pastel less pH sensitive than others? I've ordered full EK loop, and they say just flush it with water, no need for blitz.


I run Raspberry Purple in my daily/gaming rig for over a year now and the color never shifted it's still like day 1.


----------



## 7akata

@akira749 Show us!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> @akira749 Show us!


I will take a current picture tonight but if you want to check the ones of Day 1, you can check my build log : Alexstrasza's Shrine


----------



## 7akata

Thanks, you don't need to take any tonight, I'm just always curious about reps' log's!


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> Thanks, you don't need to take any tonight, I'm just always curious about reps' log's!


Don't see me as a rep but as an enthusiast/builder please.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Hi guys,
> Recently I was introduced to Mayhems product and for a while I've been using their Biocide Extreme and distilled water with great results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , water is crystal clear, no sign of any slime or growing microorganism.
> 
> 2 weeks ago I decided to remove front 240 Radiator ( Nemesis GTX Ultra Stealth) so I thought, why not do a good clean of my whole system ( 4x 480 Nemesis GTX Ultra Stealth, CPU, Chip, VRM and 3x Titan Black Heatkiller blocks. I only mentioned to Mick at Mayhems once about possibly trying the Blitz Basic Cleaning System, Mick graciously sent me that product free of charge due to little mishap during transportation with my previous purchase, which was none of their fault, I was very happy and appreciative.
> 
> After using the Blitz Part 2 I was impressed with the final result I thought I would purchase few more of them (3-4 maybe) for myself and my wife's workstations and some for future maintenance but before I do I need some additional inquiry which I couldn't find anywhere I never got the response and I have sent Mick email inquiries on at least 3 different occasions during past week or two, Is that normal for those guys not to respond, simple answer would have been just fine, after all I want to get more of their product, but now I have doubts I am little disappointed I was under the impression that their support is exceptional.
> 
> Their products are great, but I believe support afterwards is big part of overall experience I am lost for words here, have any of you experience similar behavior
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ps. All I want it to know is how often you can and its recommend to use that cleaner part 2 if distilled water is used only before worrying about damaging any of the hardware (if there is any possible risk of damage) due to frequent usage.
> Also, what's the shelf storage if kept in dark cold place, is that so much to ask


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1911Savage*
> 
> A month ago he was supposed to send me a bottle of pastel lime yellow concentrate (I didn't ask for it; he offered because of a mistake on their part) and I haven't got it yet. This was during the time that he left OCN and started his own forum. I guess he got busy and forgot. Oh, well.


Considering that they have been moving premises over the past few weeks or month it might be worth going to their forum and asking for help. Mick is currently at insomnia here in the UK hence the lack of contact.


----------



## Sacahari3l

Mayhems Ice Dragon Nano Fluid anybody got experience with this?


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sacahari3l*
> 
> Mayhems Ice Dragon Nano Fluid anybody got experience with this?


Avoid it if you're using nickel blocks. I remember one guy here had serious nickel plating issues after that.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Never heard of issues using Ice Dragon with Nickle blocks, only using silver kill coils


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KarstRypke*
> 
> After one and a half years I decided to finally pull my loop apart and clean it. I've been using EK's M6I block and their 290x block (rev 1), both nickel plated. When I opened the blocks I was shocked to see some of the nickel plating had come off both of the blocks. There also was corrosion build up on both (it seemed). I cleaned the best I could with water and soap, but it didn't help much. This is what it looked like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Today I tried to polish the blocks clean with Brasso. It worked pretty well on the raised parts of the 290x block, but it's a lot of work (polishing over and over again). I also polished a small bit of the M6I block the best I could just to see what it would look like. I got some different results this time. The nickel was wiped off fairly easily
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... So basically: the nickel plating can be polished clean at areas where the coolant had been stagnant, but the nickel can be removed easily off areas in which there has been a relatively strong flow. Here's some pictures of both results so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I contacted EK support about the nickel flaking, but it looks like they won't be accepting an RMA from me (and I'm the original buyer). Basically they think the culprit is the coolant I used. I used Ice Dragon nanofluid in my loop, which apparently contains zinc nanoparticles. I've not seen anyone have serious problems with this coolant before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The chrome or nickel plated Monsoon fittings I used are in perfect shape, so I'm not sure why the EK blocks started flaking. I don't want any flaking inside my loop and I'm not sure what to do now, if EK won't accept an RMA... I was thinking about trying to remove all the nickel from the inside of the blocks but that will be one hell of a job. In the meantime I'm using the Intel stock cooler and my old 6950 in my rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please advise.
> 
> _Update: the EK representative has offered to send me replacement bases for both blocks. I'm very relieved. Thanks, EK. I will change the coolant to make sure this won't happen again._


----------



## trimak

Wow this thread is HUGE.

I am building a new rig and just just completely fell in love with Aurora green. Only to find out I basically shouldn't use it. I am in the process of buying a whole watercooling setup so can someone summarise what I should look out for?

I need a CPU block, Pump, Res, 4 x 120mm rad, tubing,

I want an acryclic block to see the fluid, was looking at EK for block and rad, like the square edges.

I can't even find Aurora green near me?? Help

Living in Berlin now. btw

Hate that you can't edit posts... So if I want green now can I buy aurora silver and just add mayhems green dye?


----------



## ShadoX

So since my D5 pump died last night (it was 8, possibly more years old swiftech branded version, i'd say its run virtually non stop for most of that time too), i'm up for a new pump (will be getting a new EK D5 with Res top).

Such a toss up whether to keep my Yellow pastel (its only been in there for about 11/12 months max) since i saved it all into a clean container, or to flush/clean and refill with White (cause the theme is black/white).

Decisions decisions, thinking might wait until i upgrade to Skylake (soon!) to fill it with white (as i'll need to rebuild the entire loop anyway).

I hate seeing my PC in bits








http://imgur.com/h1ebWoC


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*


When was this posted? I remember they had issues with the nickel a few years back, but nothing anymore.


----------



## 414347

I still think EK nickel plating has poor quality, or at least its not consistent, people saying that it has improved I truly don't think so.
My nephew had 3 of their nickel for his 780Ti, so they were produced after the nickel fiasco, all 3 had tarnished after 6 months and he used EKs coolant


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I still think EK nickel plating has poor quality, or at least its not consistent, people saying that it has improved I truly don't think so.
> My nephew had 3 of their nickel for his 780Ti, so they were produced after the nickel fiasco, all 3 had tarnished after 6 months and he used EKs coolant


Got any pics? Not checked my AMD waterblock and it's seen some serious temps. Looks like new on top.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*


Looks like the silver from his fittings was the culprit not the coolant? He has silver plated fittings and they say not to use a silver kill coil with those waterblocks.

EDIT: Nah reading on looks like it was the coolant.


----------



## OGBeandip

I started blitzing my rads today and ran out of Part 1, ended up not having enough to fully fill both rads. Is a partial fill and then rotating them so the liquid shifts around enough to clean them?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> I started blitzing my rads today and ran out of Part 1, ended up not having enough to fully fill both rads. Is a partial fill and then rotating them so the liquid shifts around enough to clean them?


Part 1 is only for 1 liter. Were you not aware of that?


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Part 1 is only for 1 liter. Were you not aware of that?


I wasnt aware what was in there only made 1 liter. Must have missed it.

I just followed a scaled down version of the mixing instructions since I didnt have a large enough container. I just kept the ratio correctly scaled down for what I was using.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Got any pics? Not checked my AMD waterblock and it's seen some serious temps. Looks like new on top.


I don't think he does, it's been months. I know he ditched the blocks and never looked back, he is in into Heatkiller now, he loves them.
He is not much into pictures. Because he had bad experience with EK I think he had opened one of his Heatkiller blocks to check the inside status, he said, it was polished like new, he is using one of the mayhems pastels I will ask if he has some picture so I can post.
I know Heatkiller Nickel is solid Ive been using them for a while, solid quality and performance.


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Mayhem rep, do you guys have a mixture ratio for a honey colored fluid?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> Mayhem rep, do you guys have a mixture ratio for a honey colored fluid?


I think @snef Used some gold type of Aurora in His Egyptian Build.

TCO


----------



## v1ral

How flexable is mayhems tubing?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> How flexable is mayhems tubing?


Very flexible. I don't have a whole lot of other tubing to compare it to but the 1/2 3/4 I have was a lot more flexible than the Durelene I have in the same size. It's also more flexible than the 7/16 5/8 Primochill Advanced LRT and XSPC tubing I've used.

I really like the tubing, ended up buying an extra 50 feet to keep as spare


----------



## latexyankee

Can someone clarify something for me? I've done research but I am getting conflicting information.

I ordered some pastel berry blue. It says that it is sensitive to PH but no information on what the PH should be?

Brand new kit, everything will be new out of the box. I plan on rinsing the rad with distilled and vinegar. I will order the blitz kit but is out of stock in US and wont arrive until next week, I want to start the build this weekend.

will some ph strips suffice to test the levels in the loop before adding the pastel? What is an acceptable ph level? I see people complaining of the pastel changing color.

Is it absolutely necessary to use the blitz kit on a brand new loop? Everything is new from tubing to fittings to rad pump res etc....

Thanks


----------



## Anateus

If you're using EK components, then you should be ok. They clean their rads after soldering, you only have to flush it with distilled. I was told that raspberry purple is not as sensitive as other pastels.


----------



## SteezyTN

So Mayhems told me to use a coffee filter to strain my Pastel Ice White because I was going to add fresher Ice white for more coolant (bigger loop). Inside the filter, there was tons of black mess and particles. I filtered it like 5 different times with brand new filters and every time the black mess would decrease until I barely saw anything left in the filter. After a few days I went back and looked at the bottom of the container that's holding my coolant (distilled 1 gallon bottle), and there was black particles all around the bottom. What is with this?


----------



## latexyankee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> If you're using EK components, then you should be ok. They clean their rads after soldering, you only have to flush it with distilled. I was told that raspberry purple is not as sensitive as other pastels.


Im using xspc but I was told they clean thyem as well, not like alphacool rads.

what about the PH levels in the loop? Is this something you tested before adding coolant?

Fill and let loop run for awhile then drain and check PH?


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> Im using xspc but I was told they clean thyem as well, not like alphacool rads.
> 
> what about the PH levels in the loop? Is this something you tested before adding coolant?
> 
> Fill and let loop run for awhile then drain and check PH?


You should always leak test with distilled prior to adding pastel. After you finish leak testing, check water's pH. The closer to 7 the better (correct me if wrong).


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> Im using xspc but I was told they clean thyem as well, not like alphacool rads.
> 
> what about the PH levels in the loop? Is this something you tested before adding coolant?
> 
> Fill and let loop run for awhile then drain and check PH?


FWIW I used two XSPC rads in my last build and they were mint. Not one piece of gunk came out when I was flushing them, and no change in my raspberry purple pastel color.

I used two EK 480 rads in mid 2014 and they looked like someone was trying to coal mine inside them while I flushed. They were filthy.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I've had good luck with Swiftech and XSPC rads, my Magicools and black ice were lightly dirty


----------



## latexyankee

So forgive me if this info is clearly stated somewhere but I cannot find it.

All I find is pastel is very sensitive to PH levels

What is the recommended PH range of the distilled water before filling with pastel? 7?

Feel free to flame me and post a link but I swear I looked for hours at "work" and could not find documentation of the acceptable range.

Also, are the ph strips accurate enough? Digital tool required?


----------



## brazilianloser

So got a random question... will two litters of Mayhem Pastel white be enough for a build like the one I will post bellow???


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> So got a random question... will two litters of Mayhem Pastel white be enough for a build like the one I will post bellow???


You'll probably be fine with one liter. I used to have about 1.5-1.75 liters in my loop that consisted of a thick 360, thick 240, and thinner 240 with a CPU and two GPU blocks. My radiators alone were like 1.15 liters.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> You'll probably be fine with one liter. I used to have about 1.5-1.75 liters in my loop that consisted of a thick 360, thick 240, and thinner 240 with a CPU and two GPU blocks. My radiators alone were like 1.15 liters.


Sounds good. Bought two concetrates and then performance-pcs run out of them... so got them two and thats it.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Sounds good. Bought two concetrates and then performance-pcs run out of them... so got them two and thats it.


Yeah you won't need more than two. I would only use one concentrate and see if that's enough first. I also ordered two more concentrates like two weeks ago because I'm upgrading my loop and case with more radiators.


----------



## brazilianloser

Another random question. I got a plug that has a piece of pure silver on it. Can I leave that in there or would be recomended to remove it due to the stuff already present in the pastel coolant?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Another random question. I got a plug that has a piece of pure silver on it. Can I leave that in there or would be recomended to remove it due to the stuff already present in the pastel coolant?


to be 100% honest, im not sure. I believe I have read the the silver will interfere with the biocide that's already in the coolant itself. I pretty sure someone else will chime in on your question. If it were me, I would remove the silver plug and use a regular one.


----------



## 414347

*brazilianloser*! nice build, clean and well balanced


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> to be 100% honest, im not sure. I believe I have read the the silver will interfere with the biocide that's already in the coolant itself. I pretty sure someone else will chime in on your question. If it were me, I would remove the silver plug and use a regular one.


Yeah might just do that. Either way I got to wait for some extra plugs to come in along with some other minor parts I am still missing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> *brazilianloser*! nice build, clean and well balanced


Thank you. My first attempt at some hard tubing. So far so good.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Another random question. I got a plug that has a piece of pure silver on it. Can I leave that in there or would be recomended to remove it due to the stuff already present in the pastel coolant?


I would say no, it just adds another metal to your loop.


----------



## trimak

Someone tell me how I get green Aurora?! They only sell blue, red and silver so do I just need to add a mayhems green dye or what??


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

You can add the booster to any coolant to make your own aurora
http://mayhems.co.uk/store/coolants/aurora-2/aurora-2-booster/


----------



## emsj86

So would aurora booster be able to be added to pastel blue if so I might just have to do that


----------



## Ovrclck

So I'm thinking of swtiching from X1 to Pastel. Other than color, cooling is pretty much the same?


----------



## Sacahari3l

Are mayhem ulta clear tubes free of DEHP and BPA?


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So would aurora booster be able to be added to pastel blue if so I might just have to do that


I believe it can be added to ANY of the coolants. Though, how prevalent it would appear in a pastel, I don't know. But i'm really curious to see.


----------



## emsj86

I think I'll try it out next time I need to order anything I'll order a silver booster and try it out


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sacahari3l*
> 
> Are mayhem ulta clear tubes free of DEHP and BPA?


Yes it is Free of all of them,

Just for a bit of a laugh ...... we know some ppl will ask so i got there before they did. There was no scratches left after this until eventually i hit it so dammed hard eventually it smashed (well cracked a little).


----------



## brazilianloser

Lol... The petg primochill tubing I used on my build scratches up really easy,i mean really easily.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes it is Free of all of them,
> 
> Just for a bit of a laugh ...... we know some ppl will ask so i got there before they did. There was no scratches left after this until eventually i hit it so dammed hard eventually it smashed (well cracked a little).


Excellent, now I know if I ever go the glass tubing route I can use a hammer to get stubborn tubing into a fitting


----------



## cyphon

must find excuse to try glass tubing...


----------



## ali13245

Any updates on Pastel Extreme?


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Any updates on Pastel Extreme?


What is pastel extreme and why do I already want it?


----------



## ali13245

Here ya go: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aGxtkCdZhQU


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Here ya go: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aGxtkCdZhQU


Ok yeah I want it


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Excellent, now I know if I ever go the glass tubing route I can use a hammer to get stubborn tubing into a fitting


Lol at the last sentence. If it doesn't work - get a bigger hammer. Lol.


----------



## latexyankee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> So forgive me if this info is clearly stated somewhere but I cannot find it.
> 
> All I find is pastel is very sensitive to PH levels
> 
> What is the recommended PH range of the distilled water before filling with pastel? 7?
> 
> Feel free to flame me and post a link but I swear I looked for hours at "work" and could not find documentation of the acceptable range.
> 
> Also, are the ph strips accurate enough? Digital tool required?


Anyone care to chime in? Am i overthinking this?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> Anyone care to chime in? Am i overthinking this?


You can purchase a ph tester from the coolant retailer themselves (hope i'm not breaking any rules here, already have infractions!)... As for the PH level, 7 is neutral so its best to aim for as close to that as possible. On the spec sheets under PH levels it says 7-8 so if you blitz your system etc and get it as close to 7 as possible I'd say it's good to go.


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Here ya go: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aGxtkCdZhQU










Here I am imagine the new Pastel Extreme Black with Aurora2 Gold and Silver subtle hints.


----------



## latexyankee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> You can purchase a ph tester from the coolant retailer themselves... As for the PH level, 7 is neutral so its best to aim for as close to that as possible. On the spec sheets under PH levels it says 7-8 so if you blitz your system etc and get it as close to 7 as possible I'd say it's good to go.


Thanks I have some strips. Do i need to check of mayhems pastel. I thought that it was ready to go when shipped with biocides included. I'm assuming they would configure the proper ph level before packaging the product.

I am going to leak test with distilled obviously then drain and test ph of that water. Just making sure I'm not missing a step.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> Thanks I have some strips. Do i need to check of mayhems pastel. I thought that it was ready to go when shipped with biocides included. I'm assuming they would configure the proper ph level before packaging the product.
> 
> I am going to leak test with distilled obviously then drain and test ph of that water. Just making sure I'm not missing a step.


The coolant itself will be at the right PH levels yes but the rest of your loop may or may not be full of contaminants which will effect the ph level of the coolant. It's recommended by *cough cough*... people.... that you blitz your rads to remove all the flux and stuffs then part 2 your system to bring it back to as close to neutral as possible.


----------



## Wolftame

Is this the correct thread for asking about advice for mixing Mayhem pastels? Ever since decided to switch from AiO cooling to a full custom loop Mayhem have been my only choice on the list. My plan was to go for the Sunset Yellow as it looks so good against a dark background. Now however I've seen the Asus Maximus VIII Extreme motherboard and that WILL be the base of my next build using the custom loop.
Now my question is, would it be possible to mix up coolant matching either the Copper tone (pref.) or the Titanium tone of the motherboard for the coolant? (I would never get it right hence why I'm looking for help and advice).
Including a picture of the board for reference.


----------



## 7akata

Might I suggest copper tubing with that board? I think it would look beautiful, maybe with a black coolant for the res? Just a thought, but that's a beautiful board.


----------



## Wolftame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> Might I suggest copper tubing with that board? I think it would look beautiful, maybe with a black coolant for the res? Just a thought, but that's a beautiful board.


Excellent idea and would likely look good, I fear it's a bit over my current skill level though, I won't even do hard tubing atm. Black coolant is an idea and would be the simplest solution, but I think I'd prefer copper:ish or at least Titanium.


----------



## 7akata

Just a suggestion; I know you say it's above your skill level, but my first ever water cooling build I went the hard tubing route, and it was easier than I thought. I think you should give it a try!









I think some guys around here had a gold-ish copper color, but it will require mixing of the colors to get what you want. Mayhems has his own forums and I suggest you ask him personally over there. He will give you the "No BS" answer to if you can do a color, and if it will even turn out well, and usually provide you with what color combo to use to achieve what you want.

I'm an Aurora 2 fanboy, and if you could get the Aurora 2 to a copper color, that would look amazing.

Link to Mayhems discussion board: http://www.mayhems.net/


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolftame*


Can you provide me a link to the board? I see the Extreme version but it's a grey and red color combo; Interested in reading more about this combo.


----------



## Ianeo5

So I plan to use Mayhems Aurora 2 Red in a new system I have a EK Supremacy MX and I removed the jet plate I also have a EK-FC970 waterblock and a Bitspower DDC Upgrade top with a Mcp355 Should I have any problems with Aurora 2?
-Ian


----------



## HexagonRabbit

I've owned a few mayhems coolant/dye products now. I like that they are constantly working on them. With that being said, I want the pastel UV white and my next build will have a honey colored fluid which I imagine is just orange and yellow.


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ianeo5*
> 
> So I plan to use Mayhems Aurora 2 Red in a new system I have a EK Supremacy MX and I removed the jet plate I also have a EK-FC970 waterblock and a Bitspower DDC Upgrade top with a Mcp355 Should I have any problems with Aurora 2?
> -Ian


I don't believe you need to remove the jet plates anymore, but not 100% sure. I never did with my Aurora 2. What is is in your loop, can you give us the full breakdown of blocks/rads?


----------



## Ianeo5

EK supremacy MX
EK EK-FC970 waterblock
Nemesis GTX 240 ultra stealth u flow radiator
Swiftech MCP355
Bitspower Upgrade top with DDC Top
Bitspower 1/2 3/4 black compression fittings in 45 90 and straight
Primochill 1/2 3/4 tubing
-Ian


----------



## latexyankee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> The coolant itself will be at the right PH levels yes but the rest of your loop may or may not be full of contaminants which will effect the ph level of the coolant. It's recommended by *cough cough*... people.... that you blitz your rads to remove all the flux and stuffs then part 2 your system to bring it back to as close to neutral as possible.


Thanks, the blitz kit is sold at all my possible retailers in the US. I am ordering one but it will ship to from the UK and I want to attempt this loop over the weekend.

All my equipment is new, xspc rads. I am going to flush them with water and maybe vinegar and see how dirty they are. I'm hoping i will be good. I will use the blitz kit for biannual cleaning and fluid changes.


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolftame*
> 
> *snip*


For the titanium question, I found the below video on how to make a grey color. You might be able to tweak this to your tastes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG6y2M6Uvss


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ianeo5*
> 
> EK supremacy MX
> EK EK-FC970 waterblock
> Nemesis GTX 240 ultra stealth u flow radiator
> Swiftech MCP355
> Bitspower Upgrade top with DDC Top
> Bitspower 1/2 3/4 black compression fittings in 45 90 and straight
> Primochill 1/2 3/4 tubing
> -Ian


Ian, I ran a more complex loop with Aurora 2 (2x480 2xGPU 1xCPU) and had zero problems with it, and it's my understanding that the formula was updated even more since I last used it. I would wager you would be ok.


----------



## Wolftame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> Can you provide me a link to the board? I see the Extreme version but it's a grey and red color combo; Interested in reading more about this combo.


This the Maximus VIII, the black and red is the Maximus VII. This is so new and just announced that's it's not even up on Asus website yet (it's not available for purchase yet either or out for review). This was just presented to the public at the IFA convention.


----------



## Wolftame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> Just a suggestion; I know you say it's above your skill level, but my first ever water cooling build I went the hard tubing route, and it was easier than I thought. I think you should give it a try!


Well, to be honest it'äs not that much about skill, I'm sure I could hack it, it's more about economy, it's not just the tubing but additional tools etc, that doesn't mean I won't do it at a later point, but at the moment I'll go for clear tubing and Mayhem coolants.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> I think some guys around here had a gold-ish copper color, but it will require mixing of the colors to get what you want. Mayhems has his own forums and I suggest you ask him personally over there. He will give you the "No BS" answer to if you can do a color, and if it will even turn out well, and usually provide you with what color combo to use to achieve what you want.


Thank you, will check it out!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> I'm an Aurora 2 fanboy, and if you could get the Aurora 2 to a copper color, that would look amazing.


Yes, Aurora looks amazing and it's pictures of that that first got me interested in mayhem coolants. From my understanding though it's only for short time use and not suitable for a "daily driver" computer where the coolant won't be changed for very long periods of time?

Link to Mayhems discussion board: http://www.mayhems.net/[/quote]
Thank you kindly!


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I will use the blitz kit for biannual cleaning and fluid changes.


This thing does exceptional cleaning of your system, you won't be disappointed.
I though my machine was clean before







until i used it, now I know its clean


----------



## Mayhem

Well im going to blow my own horn here..,

Mayhems was started just a little over 6 year ago on £5.00.. Yes that is right i started Mayhems up on £5.00 .....
today we are now hit £250,000 turn over and our year end is still 2 months out..... I am so dammed proud.

Now if you would like to buy me out i wont except offers of less than £1,000,0000 for both me and Steve each mahahahahahahahaha

So to every one whom said it would never work ......
















Yes im happy, yes im proud and yes we have a long way to go









P.s me and Paul from XSPC are sorted we have sorted our differences. Im glad and proud to say its all good.


----------



## OGBeandip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Well im going to blow my own horn here..,
> 
> Mayhems was started just a little over 6 year ago on £5.00.. Yes that is right i started Mayhems up on £5.00 .....
> today we are now hit £250,000 turn over and our year end is still 2 months out..... I am so dammed proud.
> 
> Now if you would like to buy me out i wont except offers of less than £1,000,0000 for both me and Steve each mahahahahahahahaha
> 
> So to every one whom said it would never work ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes im happy, yes im proud and yes we have a long way to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.s me and Paul from XSPC are sorted we have sorted our differences. Im glad and proud to say its all good.


Congatulations and great job on gettin to where you are


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Well im going to blow my own horn here..,
> 
> Mayhems was started just a little over 6 year ago on £5.00.. Yes that is right i started Mayhems up on £5.00 .....
> today we are now hit £250,000 turn over and our year end is still 2 months out..... I am so dammed proud.
> 
> Now if you would like to buy me out i wont except offers of less than £1,000,0000 for both me and Steve each mahahahahahahahaha
> 
> So to every one whom said it would never work ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes im happy, yes im proud and yes we have a long way to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.s me and Paul from XSPC are sorted we have sorted our differences. Im glad and proud to say its all good.


Congrats! That's all good news. Glad to see that you have worked it out with XSPC too.


----------



## trimak

Great stuff!

As a young person with a degree in entrepreneurship I look up to you.

Now go make us permanent Aurora


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> So I'm thinking of swtiching from X1 to Pastel. Other than color, cooling is pretty much the same?


Pastel is a nanofluid, so it will have a lower thermal capacity. That being said you should only notice 1-2degrees celcius max higher coolant temps. Shouldn't make a huge impact.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes it is Free of all of them,
> 
> Just for a bit of a laugh ...... we know some ppl will ask so i got there before they did. There was no scratches left after this until eventually i hit it so dammed hard eventually it smashed (well cracked a little).


Tests inconclusive, please retest with a pneumatic hammer @ 500 pounds of force.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Any updates on Pastel Extreme?
> 
> 
> 
> What is pastel extreme and why do I already want it?
Click to expand...

Essentially pastel wihtout dyes, and instead coloured nanoparticles. Other minorish changes as well.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> So forgive me if this info is clearly stated somewhere but I cannot find it.
> 
> All I find is pastel is very sensitive to PH levels
> 
> What is the recommended PH range of the distilled water before filling with pastel? 7?
> 
> Feel free to flame me and post a link but I swear I looked for hours at "work" and could not find documentation of the acceptable range.
> 
> Also, are the ph strips accurate enough? Digital tool required?
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone care to chime in? Am i overthinking this?
Click to expand...

Distilled water is distilled water, so long as it's not rubbish quality I wouldn't bother testing it. Deionized water won't even give you a proper pH rating, as pH tests hydrogen ions and deionized won't have enough ions to actually get a proper reading.

http://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/support/msds-sheets

Don't know your dyes. Find them on there to find your pH range.

Pastel should be pH balanced from the factory. Your loop, however, may have contaminants that can effect pH. Blitzing is the recommended solution to prevent contaminants from wacking out your coolant's pH.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ianeo5*
> 
> EK supremacy MX
> EK EK-FC970 waterblock
> Nemesis GTX 240 ultra stealth u flow radiator
> Swiftech MCP355
> Bitspower Upgrade top with DDC Top
> Bitspower 1/2 3/4 black compression fittings in 45 90 and straight
> Primochill 1/2 3/4 tubing
> -Ian


Should be good to go.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *snip*
> P.s me and Paul from XSPC are sorted we have sorted our differences. Im glad and proud to say its all good.


So Havoc should be coming to the U.S. then? Great to hear. *looks at bank account* Good bye savings.

-Z


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OGBeandip*
> 
> Congatulations and great job on gettin to where you are


+1, Well done Mick and Steve, credit where credit is due.

Mark


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Well im going to blow my own horn here..,
> 
> Mayhems was started just a little over 6 year ago on £5.00.. Yes that is right i started Mayhems up on £5.00 .....
> today we are now hit £250,000 turn over and our year end is still 2 months out..... I am so dammed proud.
> 
> Now if you would like to buy me out i wont except offers of less than £1,000,0000 for both me and Steve each mahahahahahahahaha
> 
> So to every one whom said it would never work ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes im happy, yes im proud and yes we have a long way to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.s me and Paul from XSPC are sorted we have sorted our differences. Im glad and proud to say its all good.


Glad to hear this great news. Hope everything keeps moving forward for you guys, you definitely deserve it.


----------



## Anateus

Is it safe to buy pastel that has been on a shelf for 25 months?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is it safe to buy pastel that has been on a shelf for 25 months?


Shake it like a Salt Shaker.

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Shake it like a paint shaker lol, screw a salt shaker

Loving the glass tubing, now I want some to play with for the Cromartie Studio & Gallery build


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Shake it like a paint shaker lol, screw a salt shaker
> 
> Loving the glass tubing, now I want some to play with for the Cromartie Studio & Gallery build


That was a reference to a song:

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aJEzl31zL-I

Damn old people, get off our Internet!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> That was a reference to a song:
> 
> http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aJEzl31zL-I
> 
> Damn old people, get off our Internet!


Lmao. Glad someone caught on









TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol oh I know it was a song reference, just saiyan


----------



## OGBeandip




----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is it safe to buy pastel that has been on a shelf for 25 months?


Wait, is it? I have some unopened, probably 3 year old pastel that I was going to toss. Wasn't sure if it was safe to use. I thought the rule of thumb was 2 years and it's expired.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Wait, is it? I have some unopened, probably 3 year old pastel that I was going to toss. Wasn't sure if it was safe to use. I thought the rule of thumb was 2 years and it's expired.


I would think if you kept it in cold dark place it would be still OK, maybe Mick would be the best person to answer that question


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Wait, is it? I have some unopened, probably 3 year old pastel that I was going to toss. Wasn't sure if it was safe to use. I thought the rule of thumb was 2 years and it's expired.


Toss it, Only AFTER you shake it like a salt shaker please









TCO


----------



## dkevox

Hi all,

I recently finished a build using the mayhems blood red x1. Thanks to this thread for the pictures and convincing me to try it out. I love it!





Well, the fluid stayed that color in those pics for 3 weeks. I was worried that it might get a lot darker like some users have reported. It was entirely new build with everything thoroughly flushed out.

However, as of a couple days ago the red turned significantly darker. I plan to drain a lot of the mixture out and dilute it to try and restore the red in the images. I bought some mayhems X1 Clear to then mix in so I have the proper ratio of X1 to fluid still. I'll post back after I do this.

But has anyone ever figured out what leads to the sudden color change??


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I recently finished a build using the mayhems blood red x1. Thanks to this thread for the pictures and convincing me to try it out. I love it!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> Well, the fluid stayed that color in those pics for 3 weeks. I was worried that it might get a lot darker like some users have reported. It was entirely new build with everything thoroughly flushed out.
> 
> However, as of a couple days ago the red turned significantly darker. I plan to drain a lot of the mixture out and dilute it to try and restore the red in the images. I bought some mayhems X1 Clear to then mix in so I have the proper ratio of X1 to fluid still. I'll post back after I do this.
> 
> But has anyone ever figured out what leads to the sudden color change??


Normally it will be the PH levels from the rads that are changing colours of fluid int he loop. You can remove the blue stickers on the EK logos too if you haven't done so already from the Original CSQ blocks.

TCO


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I recently finished a build using the mayhems blood red x1. Thanks to this thread for the pictures and convincing me to try it out. I love it!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, the fluid stayed that color in those pics for 3 weeks. I was worried that it might get a lot darker like some users have reported. It was entirely new build with everything thoroughly flushed out.
> 
> However, as of a couple days ago the red turned significantly darker. I plan to drain a lot of the mixture out and dilute it to try and restore the red in the images. I bought some mayhems X1 Clear to then mix in so I have the proper ratio of X1 to fluid still. I'll post back after I do this.
> 
> But has anyone ever figured out what leads to the sudden color change??


Did you use Blitz parts 1 and 2 to flush your system or not? All the rubbish in the new rads will ruin coolants.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol oh I know it was a song reference, just saiyan


Ahh OK. I just figured you were like 45 or something.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Normally it will be the PH levels from the rads that are changing colours of fluid int he loop. You can remove the blue stickers on the EK logos too if you haven't done so already from the Original CSQ blocks.
> 
> TCO


lol... didn't know that about the stickers, will do tonight tyvm.

And I guess that makes sense. Not having taken any chemistry in 10 years, but I can understand that. But given the color change has already happened to whatever, I assume diluting it down will help reduce some of that over-powering deep red that it has reacted into?

Or should I get something to try to re-adjust the PH level and that will change the color back?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Did you use Blitz parts 1 and 2 to flush your system or not? All the rubbish in the new rads will ruin coolants.


No clue what this is. I have a powerful garden pump I attach to the blocks/reservoir and a filter that it all runs through and I flush DI water through every piece for a long time, then rinse with fresh water before the install.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Ahh OK. I just figured you were like 45 or something.


I think you have this backwards, I think people who recognized that reference (sadly including me now) are the ones getting old. Kids who are the age I was when that song came out probably don't know what that song is :/


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> lol... didn't know that about the stickers, will do tonight tyvm.
> 
> And I guess that makes sense. Not having taken any chemistry in 10 years, but I can understand that. But given the color change has already happened to whatever, I assume diluting it down will help reduce some of that over-powering deep red that it has reacted into?
> /


I feel as though, once the PH level of the fluid is tainted, you could probably toss it. Best best is to start over. The Blitz part 1 and 2 are to clean the rads. A solution by Mayhem.

TCO

Glad I could help you with the stickers.


----------



## brazilianloser

So if you don't want to go through the trouble of running Blitz... and last time I checked here in the US everyone seemed to be out of stock on it anyways... what one could do to clean up a loop as much as possible before putting in pastel? Flushing several times with Distilled Water until no nasty stuff comes out? Opinions...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> So if you don't want to go through the trouble of running Blitz... and last time I checked here in the US everyone seemed to be out of stock on it anyways... what one could do to clean up a loop as much as possible before putting in pastel? Flushing several times with Distilled Water until no nasty stuff comes out? Opinions...


A mix of distilled and vinegar (5%) ?

I supposed if white vinegar could neutralize bleach, the rads would be fine

TCO


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> A mix of distilled and vinegar (5%) ?
> 
> I supposed if white vinegar could neutralize bleach, the rads would be fine
> 
> TCO


Sounds easy enough I hope... Front rad fittings are on the top so draining will be a headache I think... But will do that a few times. What kind of ph in the water I should be looking for once I start running just pure distilled? I think I saw a few posts back that 7 should be good...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Sounds easy enough I hope... Front rad fittings are on the top so draining will be a headache I think... But will do that a few times. What kind of ph in the water I should be looking for once I start running just pure distilled? I think I saw a few posts back that 7 should be good...


Oh yea, I am the wrong person to ask about that. I just pour stuff in and then proceed to pray.

TCO


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I feel as though, once the PH level of the fluid is tainted, you could probably toss it. Best best is to start over. The Blitz part 1 and 2 are to clean the rads. A solution by Mayhem.
> 
> TCO
> 
> Glad I could help you with the stickers.


Yup, thank you on the stickers. Didn't even notice till you pointed it out.

As for the PH level, I'm not sure I follow. If PH level is what is causing the color change, then adjusting the PH in the opposite direction should fix it.

Although, I built the setup with ridiculously easy fill and drain locations so swapping fluid is easy. I think just diluting it though should fix the problem and using x1 clear to keep the right amount of anti-corrosion/anti-mocrobial mixture will fix it (fingers crossed).


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Ahh OK. I just figured you were like 45 or something.


lmao, no just 33. Also I happen to be from the city the song originated in (Atlanta)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is it safe to buy pastel that has been on a shelf for 25 months?


Should be fine if it's been stored in a cool dark place. Just shake it vigorously. I'd advise traveling to your nearest concert and tossing it into a mosh pit. That should suffice.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I recently finished a build using the mayhems blood red x1. Thanks to this thread for the pictures and convincing me to try it out. I love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, the fluid stayed that color in those pics for 3 weeks. I was worried that it might get a lot darker like some users have reported. It was entirely new build with everything thoroughly flushed out.
> 
> However, as of a couple days ago the red turned significantly darker. I plan to drain a lot of the mixture out and dilute it to try and restore the red in the images. I bought some mayhems X1 Clear to then mix in so I have the proper ratio of X1 to fluid still. I'll post back after I do this.
> 
> But has anyone ever figured out what leads to the sudden color change??


Flux messes up the pH, and discolours almost any dye/coolant. Blood red just happens to be one of the most sensitive.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Did you use Blitz parts 1 and 2 to flush your system or not? All the rubbish in the new rads will ruin coolants.
> 
> 
> 
> No clue what this is. I have a powerful garden pump I attach to the blocks/reservoir and a filter that it all runs through and I flush DI water through every piece for a long time, then rinse with fresh water before the install.
Click to expand...

Take the filter out ASAP. Filters, when congested, create a massive pressure drop over a small area, and can be dangerous to the loop. You could blow a hose off a barb, or form a hairline leak through a fitting.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> So if you don't want to go through the trouble of running Blitz... and last time I checked here in the US everyone seemed to be out of stock on it anyways... what one could do to clean up a loop as much as possible before putting in pastel? Flushing several times with Distilled Water until no nasty stuff comes out? Opinions...


Vinegar or citric acid mixed with warm water, then flush with a bicarb mixed in hot water. That's not an assured method, so it's best to do a proper blitz if you want to fix and forget.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> So if you don't want to go through the trouble of running Blitz... and last time I checked here in the US everyone seemed to be out of stock on it anyways... what one could do to clean up a loop as much as possible before putting in pastel? Flushing several times with Distilled Water until no nasty stuff comes out? Opinions...
> 
> 
> 
> A mix of distilled and vinegar (5%) ?
> 
> *I supposed if white vinegar could neutralize bleach, the rads would be fine
> *
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

*Nope, no, nu-uh, nope. Do not mix vinegar and bleach, you'll die.
*

Vinegar shouldn't do any damage to radiators. Highly acidic vinegar (8% acetic acid) will still only be pH 2.4ish. Anywhere from 5% to 20% vinegar should be fine for radiators. Don't use it with plated products.

-Z


----------



## brazilianloser

Yeah I know not to mix those two. I think he meant to say just the mix of vinegar and water alone.

@ZytheEKS They are brand new rads... and when I flushed them before installing there was no gunk, debris or anything for that matter. I think XSPC actually does a good job when flushing their rads pre shipping. But will still run the water/vine mix a few times then a few more just water before putting in my pastel.


----------



## Mayhem

youll be fine


----------



## brazilianloser

At first when filling the pastel white looked yellow. Once in the loop it was a bit of dark white depending on the angle. Well now with all the lights/leds on the white looks like it should. Hopefully the fact that my concentrate mix was a bit more like 250/500ish instead of the recommended 250/750 mix won't cause any problems.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Sharp looking build!









I need to know what your audio setup is............







I haven't even started looking into that yet and completely lost there, been away for too many years to know what's what in computer audio right now.........


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Sharp looking build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to know what your audio setup is............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't even started looking into that yet and completely lost there, been away for too many years to know what's what in computer audio right now.........


Lol I use to work doing installs in anything from small bars to multi million dollar churches back in 05 and then spent a few years working for Guitar Center back when you could actually make a killing in commision there. But that was 7 some years ago. I can't barely play my guitars anymore. So believe me when I say I am out of shape when it comes to audio.
Those are JBL LSR305 Studio Monitors. They are crazy cheap if you looking into monitors instead of the usual crap computer speakers and they sound so darn good. I got a Schiit Modi 2 on the way but until then just playing out directly from the onboard audio and its already killing me with joy from how good they sound.

There are better out there for sure but for the price I personally think these monitors are close to impossible to beat. Just my personal opinion.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Lol I use to work doing installs in anything from small bars to multi million dollar churches back in 05 and then spent a few years working for Guitar Center back when you could actually make a killing in commision there. But that was 7 some years ago. I can't barely play my guitars anymore. So believe me when I say I am out of shape when it comes to audio.
> Those are JBL LSR305 Studio Monitors. They are crazy cheap if you looking into monitors instead of the usual crap computer speakers and they sound so darn good. I got a Schiit Modi 2 on the way but until then just playing out directly from the onboard audio and its already killing me with joy from how good they sound.
> 
> There are better out there for sure but for the price I personally think these monitors are close to impossible to beat. Just my personal opinion.


The Shiit Modi 2 is what a DAC?

And I hear you on guitar center lol. No worries I couldn't play the sax right now to save my life either......


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> The Shiit Modi 2 is what a DAC?
> 
> And I hear you on guitar center lol. No worries I couldn't play the sax right now to save my life either......


Yeap just a simple dac. From what I see and hear from people is pretty good for the barely above $100 mark. And it looks nice, small and sleek. Think will match my entire setup quite nicely.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Yeap just a simple dac. From what I see and hear from people is pretty good for the barely above $100 mark. And it looks nice, small and sleek. Think will match my entire setup quite nicely.


Awesome thanks for the info. Will look into it. All the other DAC's I see people recommending are like $400 and I dont make music for a living lol.......


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Awesome thanks for the info. Will look into it. All the other DAC's I see people recommending are like $400 and I dont make music for a living lol.......


Yeah no point unless you got a tree in ya backyard growing money. Even onboard sound is great this days for plain listening and gaming. But I prefer having an external source for my audio just out of taste really. There are tons of other options out there in the sub $200. It really goes down to what you need it to do and what inputs and outputs you looking for.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Heard those trees grow in Northern California







lol


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Heard those trees grow in Northern California
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


Your avatar makes sense now


----------



## P206GTI

where is the best place to store pastel coolant ? already mixed with deionized water of course ...
Heard many people store it in the fridge, is this nonsense ? or is it ok ?


----------



## SteezyTN

I absolutely love the flex tubing. I ordered 3/8 for my 7/16 fittings. It's hard to screw the compressions on, but I eventually did it. It's so much more flexible that the XSPC version. My ice white looks pretty dang good


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P206GTI*
> 
> where is the best place to store pastel coolant ? already mixed with deionized water of course ...
> Heard many people store it in the fridge, is this nonsense ? or is it ok ?


Would also be interested into knowing this since I had quite a bit left over after filling my loop. And since they are unavailable here in the US at the moment from what I can see It would be nice to not go to waste.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I absolutely love the flex tubing. I ordered 3/8 for my 7/16 fittings. It's hard to screw the compressions on, but I eventually did it. It's so much more flexible that the XSPC version. My ice white looks pretty dang good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good stuff man. Yeah ya white looks just a tad whiter than mine... but might be just the pictures and what not.


----------



## emsj86

Is it on to use ek blue pastel with mayhems blue pastel. I have concentrate of each and if could would like to use them together. Also is it ok to use aurora 2 booster with blue pastel because I really want to so it but not sure if I have to do anything different or if it's a no no


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> where is the best place to store pastel coolant ? already mixed with deionized water of course ...
> Heard many people store it in the fridge, is this nonsense ? or is it ok ?


That is good question I would like to know as well. During summer I keep my Mayhems product in furnace room where air is On, during winter in cold room where is darn cold close to 0 degree C, but it did crossed my mind to put in the fridge, bottom shelve


----------



## 0ldChicken

Is there any definitive info on aurora 2? I've heard is it basically the same as aurora with improved longevity (still not for complex, restrictive loops) but i can't find any info from mayhems or their reps. The aurora wiki seems to be down and outdated from what I've heard


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Yeah I know not to mix those two. I think he meant to say just the mix of vinegar and water alone.
> 
> @ZytheEKS They are brand new rads... and when I flushed them before installing there was no gunk, debris or anything for that matter. I think XSPC actually does a good job when flushing their rads pre shipping. But will still run the water/vine mix a few times then a few more just water before putting in my pastel.


Fresh from the factory is actually the best time to blitz rad. The main purpose of blitz is actually to remove flux. Flux that will be residual from the manufacturing process. Blitzing straight from the factory can remove this flux without stripping the copper patina that builds up over time, which shields the rad from corrosion.

That being said, XSPC is one of the leaders in rad quality, and that includes cleaning. The sonic cleaning process they use does a good job at stripping the flux. You should be set without a blitz.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *P206GTI*
> 
> where is the best place to store pastel coolant ? already mixed with deionized water of course ...
> Heard many people store it in the fridge, is this nonsense ? or is it ok ?
> 
> 
> 
> Would also be interested into knowing this since I had quite a bit left over after filling my loop. And since they are unavailable here in the US at the moment from what I can see It would be nice to not go to waste.
Click to expand...

Store in a cool dark place. I would imagine a fridge would work well enough, as long as it doesn't get really cold in there. (5ish celcius)

-Z


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Fresh from the factory is actually the best time to blitz rad. The main purpose of blitz is actually to remove flux. Flux that will be residual from the manufacturing process. Blitzing straight from the factory can remove this flux without stripping the copper patina that builds up over time, which shields the rad from corrosion.
> 
> That being said, XSPC is one of the leaders in rad quality, and that includes cleaning. The sonic cleaning process they use does a good job at stripping the flux. You should be set without a blitz.
> -Z


Yeah this is only my second water cooled build. But from the previous build when I got the rads in and flushed them, there was noticeable residue in it. It took me forever flushing them to get them acceptable. While this time around I must say the XSPC AX rads impressed me. Even on the very first flush there was no residue. The rad it self just feels like a whole nother level of quality compared to my old Alphacools...


----------



## 414347

I have 4 480 GTX Black Ice Nemesis, apparently, so I've heard, they are among one of the cleanest rads made.
When I flashed them and I did literally at least 10 times each, my arms where sore for days after that, that was before I discover Blitz, but each time I would empty them, there was always black and green stuff coming out of them, it took me long to clean them.
Anyways, If Hardware labs radiators supposedly are one of the cleanest once......Wow! I'm wonder what's coming out of the "not so clean rads" during their flashing time


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I have 4 480 GTX Black Ice Nemesis, apparently, so I've heard, they are among one of the cleanest rads made.
> When I flashed them and I did literally at least 10 times each, my arms where sore for days after that, that was before I discover Blitz, but each time I would empty them, there was always black and green stuff coming out of them, it took me long to clean them.
> Anyways, If Hardware labs radiators supposedly are one of the cleanest once......Wow! I'm wonder what's coming out of the "not so clean rads" during their flashing time


Like I said on the previous post though... Both my XSPC rads used on my latest build had no gunk, no debris, no nothing out of it even on the first flush. I still flushed them like a dozen times each but nothing come out. First time that has happened to me.


----------



## 414347

Ahhh, didn't truly read you above post







.
I was never into XSPC and I don't even know why, but it seems they stepping up a notch with their products


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Ahhh, didn't truly read you above post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I was never into XSPC and I don't even know why, but it seems they stepping up a notch with their products


Their AX radiators look amazing. And feel amazing at hand too. Seems very nice and strong, good quality built. At least from what my hands and eyes can tell. But then I only had Alphacool rads before if you don't count all the AIO coolers.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is it on to use ek blue pastel with mayhems blue pastel. I have concentrate of each and if could would like to use them together. Also is it ok to use aurora 2 booster with blue pastel because I really want to so it but not sure if I have to do anything different or if it's a no no


Bump


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Bump


I was under the impression that EK coolant was rebranded Mayhems, but I could be mistaken. Might I suggest you visit Mayhems' official forums to ask Mick over there.

As for the Aurora Booster, you can use it with your pastel. There's a video of someone on Youtube showing his pastel blue w/ Aurora 2 booster in it.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is it on to use ek blue pastel with mayhems blue pastel. I have concentrate of each and if could would like to use them together. Also is it ok to use aurora 2 booster with blue pastel because I really want to so it but not sure if I have to do anything different or if it's a no no
> 
> 
> 
> Bump
Click to expand...

Yes to both,

EK pastel is made by Mayhems and rebranded as EK.

Aurora booster can be used with any Mayhems coolant.


----------



## emsj86

Just saw the video oh man I want it added to my pastel now


----------



## trimak

Lol. Got my mayhems UV green dye and aurora silver booster and when I was squeezing it into the reservoir the top part of the bottle like broke off/popped out and all the dye went everywhere XD









Think i'd be out of line asking for another bottle? :/


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Lol. Got my mayhems UV green dye and aurora silver booster and when I was squeezing it into the reservoir the top part of the bottle like broke off/popped out and all the dye went everywhere XD frown.gif
> 
> Think i'd be out of line asking for another bottle? :/


Accidents happen, maybe defective bottle, Mick and Steve are pretty good at rectifying issues, maybe if you can take a picture of what happen, if you still can, that will help, but I'm only guessing.


----------



## Anateus

So, how do I obtain sapphire blue pastel? Raspberry purple looked more like deep blue on pics, but irl its too purpleish.
Or should I just go with non pastel?


----------



## Mayhem

well we can say with out namin names there are a few companies whom and now going to be OEM our tubing since its so good







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trimak*
> 
> Lol. Got my mayhems UV green dye and aurora silver booster and when I was squeezing it into the reservoir the top part of the bottle like broke off/popped out and all the dye went everywhere XD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think i'd be out of line asking for another bottle? :/


Contact steve @ mayhems . co . uk explain what happened and show a receipt and he will replace it.

Mick


----------



## chronokairo

hi guys. good day.
im new to aurora and read lots about it on this thread but im still confused.
right now, im planning to buy *"Aurora 2 Booster Silver"* and it is still not clear to me, is it ok to use it for my daily machine? something like the aurora will last for a year or so?
hope someone can help me on my dilemma.. thanks in advance.


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronokairo*
> 
> hi guys. good day.
> im new to aurora and read lots about it on this thread but im still confused.
> right now, im planning to buy *"Aurora 2 Booster Silver"* and it is still not clear to me, is it ok to use it for my daily machine? something like the aurora will last for a year or so?
> hope someone can help me on my dilemma.. thanks in advance.


It's not that it wont last, it's that sometimes it drops out of suspension. So it's still in the system, but it might just be laying in dead zones. That being said I used Aurora 2 for months before I broke down my computer and never had one issue with it.


----------



## chronokairo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> It's not that it wont last, it's that sometimes it drops out of suspension. So it's still in the system, but it might just be laying in dead zones. That being said I used Aurora 2 for months before I broke down my computer and never had one issue with it.


thanks for the reply.
so something like, if i use complicated loop, higher chance of putting the "pearl" stagnant in the deadzone?
how about high flow rate?


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronokairo*
> 
> thanks for the reply.
> so something like, if i use complicated loop, higher chance of putting the "pearl" stagnant in the deadzone?
> how about high flow rate?


Pretty much. Mick has said that maintaining a high flow rate is always the best idea for it's use. I'm sure this is in direct correlation with it droping out of suspension.

My last loop was Full cover MB monoblock, GPU, GPU, 480, 480, Res with Dual D5's inline and it worked out fine.


----------



## chronokairo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> Pretty much. Mick has said that maintaining a high flow rate is always the best idea for it's use. I'm sure this is in direct correlation with it droping out of suspension.
> 
> My last loop was Full cover MB monoblock, GPU, GPU, 480, 480, Res with Dual D5's inline and it worked out fine.


thanks for the answer bro.. it is really a great help.







cheers.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Mayhems Red that I had left over. Replaced the White Ek Pastel In my Rig after a year. And yes, the white, came out Blue.





TCO


----------



## Mayhem

How to cut mayhems glass tubing quickly.




Then sand down with Wet and Dry "Silicon Carbide" (wet) job done, We use 240Cw.


----------



## 414347

Nicely done Mick.
Is Mayhems first to come up with glass tubing, reflection of any liquid in glass tubing walls is amazing, looks like 3D.
My setup still have few tubes that are bent, but maybe once I decide to go with total straight tubing I might get some of your glass and go nuts.


----------



## cyphon

@Mayhem: how tight can you get them bends on the glass?

Side note: need to convince my gf to lemme get lemme get a torch to make the bends


----------



## Mayhem

Yes mayhems is the first to do glass and have decent sizes in stock.




We are also doing pre bends, and we also may have some other surprises with the tubing that may make some of you just go nuts


----------



## emsj86

I'm i retested to see if glass tubing becomes the standard over acrylic


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes mayhems is the first to do glass and have decent sizes in stock.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are also doing pre bends, and we also may have some other surprises with the tubing that may make some of you just go nuts


----------



## 7akata

I can't imagine it becoming a standard simply because of the bending principle. A lot of people, minus looks, bend acrylic for functionality. I don't really view acrylic as the standard either, as I would have to imagine that the vast majority of people WCing are using soft tubing because it's much easier to work with.


----------



## Mayhem

We have lots of interest from companies who wish to OEM it already and companies who want us to bend it for pre built systems, Basically once every who has seen how much better it is, loves it. You need to be careful though there is a some crap glass out there and i can defo see some unscrupulous sellers selling rubbish and trying to palm it off as good stuff, We may etch our logo into the glass on the ends as Proof its Mayhems, also you'll fine we wrap each individual peace







.


----------



## 7akata

I'm curious to see it in action on a system, and the bending process. Maybe I missed it on your page, but on the 12mm OD, what's the ID? curious if this is going to be able to mate with things like Bitspower C47 etc.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronokairo*
> 
> hi guys. good day.
> im new to aurora and read lots about it on this thread but im still confused.
> right now, im planning to buy *"Aurora 2 Booster Silver"* and it is still not clear to me, is it ok to use it for my daily machine? something like the aurora will last for a year or so?
> hope someone can help me on my dilemma.. thanks in advance.


The fluid can last a very long time, the nanoparticles can drop out of suspension in a time frame ranging from 1 hour to years.

Please list all the liquid cooling hardware and we can get back to you with whether Aurora will work well with your system.

-Z


----------



## Cavey00

I'm pretty sure it's been stated that they won't, but do those particles that fall out of suspension cause a clog anywhere when they do? Will blitz clean them out? My system is definitely not prime for Aurora but I would love to see it run through, even if only for a week. What I don't want to have to do is break it all down after, ya know?

Just because you will ask, ek CPU and Mb blocks, 2 xspc gpu blocks, 2 240 slim and a 360 for rads, a swiftech square micro res that is guaranteed to have dead spots in it, all pumped with a single d5 ;-) About as far from ideal as you can get. Pastel looks wonderful in it though!


----------



## Rahldrac

@Mayhem
I know you moved over to your new site mostly. Do you have a post there on FAQ on Aurora 2? Like how fast/powerful your pump needs to be, does it have to be on almost all the time? Best/worst radiators/blocks, any other considerations when using Aurora 2?

Thanks!


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it's been stated that they won't, but do those particles that fall out of suspension cause a clog anywhere when they do? Will blitz clean them out? My system is definitely not prime for Aurora but I would love to see it run through, even if only for a week. What I don't want to have to do is break it all down after, ya know?
> 
> Just because you will ask, ek CPU and Mb blocks, 2 xspc gpu blocks, 2 240 slim and a 360 for rads, a swiftech square micro res that is guaranteed to have dead spots in it, all pumped with a single d5 ;-) About as far from ideal as you can get. Pastel looks wonderful in it though!


So I have been using A2 for little over a month now in my test system and have had 0 fall out yet which is really nice compared to A1. I do know that cleanup will require blitz, as the pearls stick to everything when you flush out so yes blitz is a good idea. I had run a previous version of Aurora on some of my components (pump and CPU block) and I was surprised how even with thorough flushing after removing the previous batch when I ran blitz to prep the new loop how much aurora was still hanging in the system.

I screwedup my loop setup on my new loop (put the inner tube of the reservoir on the wrong port) but I have 2 extra bottles of Aurora so Im giving the current batch 3 more weeks to test longevity on the current setup and will run another test with the CPU plate on, my GPU has a jet plate and it has shown 0 buildup so far so I think it will be safe to have the CPU plate on also. I do run my D5 at max speed to keep the particles flowing.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> So I have been using A2 for little over a month now in my test system and have had 0 fall out yet which is really nice compared to A1. I do know that cleanup will require blitz, as the pearls stick to everything when you flush out so yes blitz is a good idea. I had run a previous version of Aurora on some of my components (pump and CPU block) and I was surprised how even with thorough flushing after removing the previous batch when I ran blitz to prep the new loop how much aurora was still hanging in the system.
> 
> I screwedup my loop setup on my new loop (put the inner tube of the reservoir on the wrong port) but I have 2 extra bottles of Aurora so Im giving the current batch 3 more weeks to test longevity on the current setup and will run another test with the CPU plate on, my GPU has a jet plate and it has shown 0 buildup so far so I think it will be safe to have the CPU plate on also. I do run my D5 at max speed to keep the particles flowing.


I'll keep an eye out for your results. Mick said that they keep improving A2 so I'm hoping that by the time I get around to doing a flush and refill that it will be small enough pearls for me to get away with using it for a while. I don't expect it to last a year like my pastel has. I just don't want to break it down. Just don't have the time to do that. If it would require a breakdown I would simply not even try it and stick with pastel.


----------



## nmann

Can I mix perfect pink with UV clear blue and have a pink fluid that turns blue when the UV light is on????


----------



## emsj86

Mobile upload for now.


----------



## 7akata

^ Did you end up putting Aurora 2 in the pastel? Maybe a quick vid?


----------



## 414347

Did that blue liquid went all over your bottom floor case








Man that color is beautiful, blue is my favorite, love it


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it's been stated that they won't, *but do those particles that fall out of suspension cause a clog anywhere when they do?* *Will blitz clean them out?[/I*] My system is definitely not prime for Aurora but I would love to see it run through, even if only for a week. What I don't want to have to do is break it all down after, ya know?
> 
> Just because you will ask, *ek CPU and Mb blocks, 2 xspc gpu blocks, 2 240 slim and a 360 for rads, a swiftech square micro res that is guaranteed to have dead spots in it, all pumped with a single d5* ;-) About as far from ideal as you can get. Pastel looks wonderful in it though!


*Nope. Cyphon did the math a while back, but the probability of even Aurora classic clogging even one microchannel on a waterblock is near impossible.*

*Blitz Part 2 should clean it out of components, but keep in mind if the particles get caught in tight areas such as inbetween tubing and a barb/compression fitting you won't be able to simply "flush" it out, you'll need to disassemble and scrub.*
*
Assuming that 360 is a slim, drop in a second pump, and swap the mini res out for bitspower mini tank and you should be able to get a good lifespan out of aurora.*

-Z


----------



## huhh

Got a question for the Mayhem gurus.

I have some new ek rads (xe360 and pe360) that I'm installing in my loop and I'm Going to be using some Mayhems pastel red, should I use the blitz pro kit? I know ek says their rads are clean and flushed, iI usually do a distilled water/vinegar flush on my rads even though ek says not too but would it be worth it to use the blitz pro kits to prevent any discoloration of my fluid? I'm usually a colored tubing clear fluid guy but iI wanted to do something different this time.

Probably won't be filling my loop for another week or two so now would be the time to pull the rads.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huhh*
> 
> Got a question for the Mayhem gurus.
> 
> I have some new ek rads (xe360 and pe360) that I'm installing in my loop and I'm Going to be using some Mayhems pastel red, should I use the blitz pro kit? I know ek says their rads are clean and flushed, iI usually do a distilled water/vinegar flush on my rads even though ek says not too but would it be worth it to use the blitz pro kits to prevent any discoloration of my fluid? I'm usually a colored tubing clear fluid guy but iI wanted to do something different this time.
> 
> Probably won't be filling my loop for another week or two so now would be the time to pull the rads.


Should be good with a warm distilled flush. Use the vinegar/bicarb flush if you want to be extra careful. Blitz might be overkill for an EK, but if you're like me you'll do it anyway.



Chart courtesy of Geggeg and his quad rad roundup.

-Z


----------



## huhh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Should be good with a warm distilled flush. Use the vinegar/bicarb flush if you want to be extra careful. Blitz might be overkill for an EK, but if you're like me you'll do it anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> Chart courtesy of Geggeg and his quad rad roundup.
> 
> -Z


I flushed then 5 times with boiling water/vinegar then 2 flushes with distilled. I suppose I'll be alright then. Thanks.


----------



## SteezyTN

My ice white is so beautiful













I have one concentrate left unopened because I though this was going to use more than 3 liters. So I just topped the res' off with distiller


----------



## theonedub

Time to see what happens on this go around. EK says don't use any cleaner like Blitz, so I went with a 2x bicarb flush and 4x distilled flush and tossed in premixed Ice White in my system with new PrimoChill LRT. Will the color hold for longer than 3 months? Did I waste ~$45 in coolant? Wait and see.

*Day1*


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> Time to see what happens on this go around. EK says don't use any cleaner like Blitz, so I went with a 2x bicarb flush and 4x distilled flush and tossed in premixed Ice White in my system with new PrimoChill LRT. Will the color hold for longer than 3 months? Did I waste ~$45 in coolant? Wait and see.
> 
> *Day1*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That white PSU is banging.

TCO


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> *Nope. Cyphon did the math a while back, but the probability of even Aurora classic clogging even one microchannel on a waterblock is near impossible.*
> 
> *Blitz Part 2 should clean it out of components, but keep in mind if the particles get caught in tight areas such as inbetween tubing and a barb/compression fitting you won't be able to simply "flush" it out, you'll need to disassemble and scrub.*
> *
> Assuming that 360 is a slim, drop in a second pump, and swap the mini res out for bitspower mini tank and you should be able to get a good lifespan out of aurora.*
> 
> -Z


Hmm, thanks for the reply. In that case I think it's probably safe to say that pastel particles have probably already occupied the small spaces that blitz won't flush, so what's a few more particles right? I'm more concerned with clogging than anything and that puts me at ease.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My ice white is so beautiful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have one concentrate left unopened because I though this was going to use more than 3 liters. So I just topped the res' off with distiller


You only used two bottles of concentrate to fill all that up?


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> You only used two bottles of concentrate to fill all that up?


It only took one for my loop. So its believable.


----------



## ali13245

Damn... that's crazy, I figured it would take like 4 liters to fill his loop up with the amount of hardware he has in there


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> You only used two bottles of concentrate to fill all that up?


I previously had two liters and a tiny left over from my last loop. I saved it and used coffee filters to "clean" it. Then I added one more. I could've sworn I calculated to use more than 3, but then again, I did lose a crap load while filling, as well as making mistakes and spilling some. So yeah, my loop took 3 liters


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> *Nope. Cyphon did the math a while back, but the probability of even Aurora classic clogging even one microchannel on a waterblock is near impossible.*
> 
> *Blitz Part 2 should clean it out of components, but keep in mind if the particles get caught in tight areas such as inbetween tubing and a barb/compression fitting you won't be able to simply "flush" it out, you'll need to disassemble and scrub.*
> *
> Assuming that 360 is a slim, drop in a second pump, and swap the mini res out for bitspower mini tank and you should be able to get a good lifespan out of aurora.*
> 
> -Z


Mind linking this math if it is easy to locate? If not, no worries. I wanted to know if he had considered the effect of nanoparticle agglomeration due to a pH change and drift towards the isoelectric point for the system.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mind linking this math if it is easy to locate? If not, no worries. I wanted to know if he had considered the effect of nanoparticle agglomeration due to a pH change and drift towards the isoelectric point for the system.


I love when someone makes me feel dumb.


----------



## ozzy1925

@ZytheEKS
i have been running pastel white for 2 months but i see my jet plate turned to yellowish color and see the same color inside the gpu bridges .




What could be the reason?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> @ZytheEKS
> i have been running pastel white for 2 months but i see my jet plate turned to yellowish color and see the same color inside the gpu bridges .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What could be the reason?


Two questions: What rads do you have, and did you Blitz them? Because my first instinct is that looks like flux.

-Z


----------



## RhinoJC

Hello mayhems.

I have just blitzed basic my system and am in the process of flushing with distilled. I have done the first flush and have just refilled to flush again. I still have a fair bit of foam in the top of the reservoir.

My loop only has one drain point and is reasonably complicated. It is very difficult for me to completely drain the loop. Should i keep refilling and emptying until i don't see this foam? I'm going to refill with pastel uv white afterwards. Will a bit of blitz residue (enough to cause foam) affect the fluid?

Thanks


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RhinoJC*
> 
> Hello mayhems.
> 
> I have just blitzed basic my system and am in the process of flushing with distilled. I have done the first flush and have just refilled to flush again. I still have a fair bit of foam in the top of the reservoir.
> 
> My loop only has one drain point and is reasonably complicated. It is very difficult for me to completely drain the loop. Should i keep refilling and emptying until i don't see this foam? I'm going to refill with pastel uv white afterwards. Will a bit of blitz residue (enough to cause foam) affect the fluid?
> 
> Thanks


Flush it out as best you can. A little bit of foam shouldn't be a problem as far as coolant longevity goes, but it might make it a major PITA to bleed the air out of.

-Z


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Two questions: What rads do you have, and did you Blitz them? Because my first instinct is that looks like flux.
> 
> -Z


Alphacool rads and yes i did blitz them.Weird thing is the color of the fluid looks perfect


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Alphacool rads and yes i did blitz them.Weird thing is the color of the fluid looks perfect


Looks like rad crud. Similar thing happened to me on one of my mITX build using an alphacool rad at right about the 2month mark. I did not use blitz but thoroughly flushed the rad.


----------



## Mayhem

The new alpha cool rads look impressive and really clean, had a good look at the new ones.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The new alpha cool rads look impressive and really clean, had a good look at the new ones.


What new ones?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> What new ones?


the ones with blue alphacool sticker on the rads are new


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Two questions: What rads do you have, and did you Blitz them? Because my first instinct is that looks like flux.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool rads and yes i did blitz them.Weird thing is the color of the fluid looks perfect
Click to expand...

I'd drain the coolant, run it through a coffee filter, scrub that crud out of there with a soft bristle tooth brush, put a few gallons of hot/boilingish water in a bucket, hook the bucket up to the pump, pump to radiator, and out the rad to the sink and just flush a few gallons of hot water through it. Then refill with your coolant you filtered. (Tap is fine if it's decent purity). It's probably just some debris/dust/particles or something depositing itself in certain areas if the coolant is not being wacked out.

-Z


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> the ones with blue alphacool sticker on the rads are new


you mean the ones that don't have a sticker but it's like, painted on:


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd drain the coolant, run it through a coffee filter, scrub that crud out of there with a soft bristle tooth brush, put a few gallons of hot/boilingish water in a bucket, hook the bucket up to the pump, pump to radiator, and out the rad to the sink and just flush a few gallons of hot water through it. Then refill with your coolant you filtered. (Tap is fine if it's decent purity). It's probably just some debris/dust/particles or something depositing itself in certain areas if the coolant is not being wacked out.
> 
> -Z


will it cause any damage if i leave it as is for 1-2 months more ?because it will be a real pain to do with my loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> you mean the ones that don't have a sticker but it's like, painted on:


yes


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd drain the coolant, run it through a coffee filter, scrub that crud out of there with a soft bristle tooth brush, put a few gallons of hot/boilingish water in a bucket, hook the bucket up to the pump, pump to radiator, and out the rad to the sink and just flush a few gallons of hot water through it. Then refill with your coolant you filtered. (Tap is fine if it's decent purity). It's probably just some debris/dust/particles or something depositing itself in certain areas if the coolant is not being wacked out.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> *will it cause any damage* if i leave it as is for 1-2 months more ?because it will be a real pain to do with my loop.
Click to expand...

Will it cause any damage to the components?
Almost certainly not.

Will it cause any damage to the coolant?
That would greatly depend on the contents of the contaminants, the contents of which I have absolutely no idea about. (Paint chips? Cupric phosphate? Tin Phosphate? Plastic chips? Copper particles? Who knows. It would take quite a bit of testing to determine the contents of the particle scaling) Up to you, it's really a crap-shoot AFAIK.

-Z


----------



## jlakai

So I finally tried blitz on my rads that have previously been flushed via pond pump, filter method and I am pretty impressed. A lot of stuff came out when I thought was previously already clean so pretty much makes pondpump filter method a waste of time and money. I ran blitz 2 and tested the ph and its at 6.82, flushing with water right now but I'm wondering won't the ph change after flushing ?? The distilled I have is testing 5.82 so won't the ph change to whatever the final liquid I put in ?


----------



## pompss

after 3 months my red pastel turned in purple and the white pastel start become more darker
Used blitz and ph was good but still have the same issue like before with color changing.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> So I finally tried blitz on my rads that have previously been flushed via pond pump, filter method and I am pretty impressed. A lot of stuff came out when I thought was previously already clean so pretty much makes pondpump filter method a waste of time and money. I ran blitz 2 and tested the ph and its at 6.82, flushing with water right now but *I'm wondering won't the ph change after flushing ?? The distilled I have is testing 5.82 so won't the ph change to whatever the final liquid I put in* ?


Assuming the Blitz got all the flux out of your rad it shouldn't change much or at all.

Your Distilled water /might/ be giving you a false pH reading. Pure water with no contaminants will have no, or very little, hydrogen ions. Hydrogen ions are what pH measures. Since it's trying to read what isn't there, or is in such short supply, it might be giving a false number simply due to the fact it can't accurately measure em. Once you mix with the coolant concentrate it should give you a proper reading, as the coolant itself will have stuff that brings /should/ bring it to the proper balanced pH thus modifying the hydrogen ions.

TL;DR, deionized water and ultra-high purity can't be pH tested as they don't have sufficient hydrogen ions to measure & the coolant should be proper pH once the concentrate is mixed with water.

-Z


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> after 3 months my red pastel turned in purple and the white pastel start become more darker
> Used blitz and ph was good but still have the same issue like before with color changing.


If you could post some photos of the color shift before and after, I'd appreciate it.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Assuming the Blitz got all the flux out of your rad it shouldn't change much or at all.
> 
> Your Distilled water /might/ be giving you a false pH reading. Pure water with no contaminants will have no, or very little, hydrogen ions. Hydrogen ions are what pH measures. Since it's trying to read what isn't there, or is in such short supply, it might be giving a false number simply due to the fact it can't accurately measure em. Once you mix with the coolant concentrate it should give you a proper reading, as the coolant itself will have stuff that brings /should/ bring it to the proper balanced pH thus modifying the hydrogen ions.
> 
> TL;DR, deionized water and ultra-high purity can't be pH tested as they don't have sufficient hydrogen ions to measure & the coolant should be proper pH once the concentrate is mixed with water.
> 
> -Z


He is asking about distilled, so clearly it will have some pH level.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Assuming the Blitz got all the flux out of your rad it shouldn't change much or at all.
> 
> Your Distilled water /might/ be giving you a false pH reading. Pure water with no contaminants will have no, or very little, hydrogen ions. Hydrogen ions are what pH measures. Since it's trying to read what isn't there, or is in such short supply, it might be giving a false number simply due to the fact it can't accurately measure em. Once you mix with the coolant concentrate it should give you a proper reading, as the coolant itself will have stuff that brings /should/ bring it to the proper balanced pH thus modifying the hydrogen ions.
> 
> TL;DR, deionized water and ultra-high purity can't be pH tested as they don't have sufficient hydrogen ions to measure & the coolant should be proper pH once the concentrate is mixed with water.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> He is asking about distilled, so *clearly it will have some pH leve*l.
Click to expand...

We won't be able to measure it.
http://www.vernier.com/til/1286/

It doesn't have sufficient ions to get an accurate measurement.

He is getting a reading of 5.82 pH, far below the 7.0 pH we would expect from pure water, or the 6.3 pH we should expect on the assumption it's formed carbonic acid. This leaves two possibilities.

A: He's not getting an accurate reading.

B: His water is contaminated with an acid (other than carbonic acid).

Choice B is highly improbable, and choice A is a known issue with measuring distilled deionized.

-Z


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> We won't be able to measure it.
> http://www.vernier.com/til/1286/
> 
> It doesn't have sufficient ions to get an accurate measurement.
> 
> He is getting a reading of 5.82 pH, far below the 7.0 pH we would expect from pure water, or the 6.3 pH we should expect on the assumption it's formed carbonic acid. This leaves two possibilities.
> 
> A: He's not getting an accurate reading.
> 
> B: His water is contaminated with an acid (other than carbonic acid).
> 
> Choice B is highly improbable, and choice A is a known issue with measuring distilled deionized.
> 
> -Z


Are we talkih about deionised or distilled?








Distilled has same amount of ions it had before the process, at least thats what they taught me.


----------



## emsj86

@mayhem. I have a question. I will be using aurora 2 silver booster on a just under 2 liter single loop. Blue pastel is what is running right now and I was going to add the booster. Do I need to remove the jet plate or anti cyclone fitting from the bitspower reservoir? Or any tips? Will one be enough for 1.5
Liter loop?


----------



## 7akata

Not Mick, but I didn't remove my jetplate or my anti cyclone in my Bitspower res and my Aurora 2 was fine.


----------



## emsj86

Nice I know it's asked a lot. Just didn't want to mess up and lose it on two bottles of brand new pastel


----------



## royfrosty

Hi guys,

Just bought the Mayhems UV White coolant for my PC. However I realised it isn't that reactive?



Would like to check, is it the LED that I bought, does not react with the coolant well? If so where could I get a proper UV LED to produced a more reactive glow?

Thanks in advanced!

EDIT: I did however short of coolant by a bit, roughly 150ml short? So I added a bit of distilled water with it, does it matters?


----------



## 1911Savage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royfrosty*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Just bought the Mayhems UV White coolant for my PC. However I realised it isn't that reactive?
> 
> Would like to check, is it the LED that I bought, does not react with the coolant well? If so where could I get a proper UV LED to produced a more reactive glow?
> 
> Thanks in advanced!
> 
> EDIT: I did however short of coolant by a bit, roughly 150ml short? So I added a bit of distilled water with it, does it matters?


Isn't the UV White supposed to glow blue with UV light? It looks blue to me in your picture.


----------



## royfrosty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1911Savage*
> 
> Isn't the UV White supposed to glow blue with UV light? It looks blue to me in your picture.


Yes it supposed to be glowing blue with UV Light, according to the picture, it was taken 3 days back.

Today when I started noticing that the LED starts to turn purplish colour instead of glowing blue. Here's a pic today, and I have shifted the LED nearer to the res, but its still purple lol.

http://s995.photobucket.com/user/ro...eneXis 2/20150916_235650_zpszam3pvod.jpg.html


----------



## 414347

I don't know where you got your UV reactive LEDs FYI if you shopping for good whether UV or just LED's Dazmode has unmatched lights truly the best









Is that purple led or the coolant, it does look in between purple and blue, nice, but if its not what you were going for


----------



## royfrosty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I don't know where you got your UV reactive LEDs FYI if you shopping for good whether UV or just LED's Dazmode has unmatched lights truly the best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that purple led or the coolant, it does look in between purple and blue, nice, but if its not what you were going for


Yeah thanks for your replies, I gotten it from my local hardware stores in Singapore. I think it looks completely purple to me right now,

Guess I would go for Dazmode lights then. Thank you!


----------



## 414347

Yes Dazmodes LEDs are made in Japan, I got few non UV reactive and some reactive over year ago, all working great.
He is also quick with shipping, you wont regret, they will last you lifetime
good luck

Btw. is that 400 or 300ml reservoir, looks sweet


----------



## royfrosty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Yes Dazmodes LEDs are made in Japan, I got few non UV reactive and some reactive over year ago, all working great.
> He is also quick with shipping, you wont regret, they will last you lifetime
> good luck
> 
> Btw. is that 400 or 300ml reservoir, looks sweet


Thanks!

Here's the link to the reservoir...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/reservoirs/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-400-full-clear-acrylic-version.html

Its about 400mm long.


----------



## 414347

Thanks


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Btw. is that 400 or 300ml reservoir, looks sweet


That's what I said, definitely one of the better looking ones.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> That's what I said, definitely one of the better looking ones.












I have Bitspoower 250ml and I don't see me going for anything smaller, but I do feel that 400ml would look even better in my case, just a matter of rerouting my top intake tubing


----------



## bigporl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have Bitspoower 250ml and I don't see me going for anything smaller, but I do feel that 400ml would look even better in my case, just a matter of rerouting my top intake tubing


Got the 150mm version its just right for my case (corair 600t). best looking tube res in my opinion as its a tube and doesn't stray from that like the ek variants.


----------



## ppkstat

As I am getting one of the alphacool rads does anybody knows if they need to be blitzed? Are things any better in the interior? I'll be running white pastel.


----------



## emsj86

Is he aurora booster the same as the aurora 2? As in how long it's made for a system because I ordered it from ppc and two things one bottle is clear and half empty and warning labels saying not for long use. Anyone help me out here. Did ppc mess my order up or is there no aurora 2 booster


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> As I am getting one of the alphacool rads does anybody knows if they need to be blitzed? Are things any better in the interior? I'll be running white pastel.


Some say Alfacool are full of crap. This isn't from personal experience, but tbh. if I was doing this all over again I would flash them all with blitz, it won't hurt, if anything it will clean them totally and you won't have regrets, than use Blitz part 2 afterwards once you have your system ready for final liquid.
When I was putting my rig together year ago I didn't even know about blitz


----------



## ppkstat

I am sorry I meant the NEW alphacool rads. I know the old ones were really dirty but Mike here said the new ones were 'clean'.


----------



## 414347

You know, even if they are better than the old ones I mean unless you really take someones word for it and you tight with budget I would flash it, even if they are clean, wouldn't you feel better knowing your rads are sparkle clean, but its all up to you, sorry its just my 2 cents









Pa. I'm one of those anal guys


----------



## ppkstat

You're right, blitzing the will always be safer. I am on a tight budget. However the frustration taking the whole loop apart costs more than blitz.


----------



## Alerean

Hey guys. Since I've never used any Mayhem products, I figured this would be the place to make an inquiry. What should I get to match the red accents on the MB below? Normally it wouldn't matter, but I'm planning on adding the same colour accents to my radiators so it'd be a shame if the red coolant didn't match (or even worse, was totally off). I'm leaning towards the X1 Blood Red with blue dye as an assurance, but having never seen it or the pastel red in person I can't tell if that's the one I want. Thanks!

Open the original, this is a massive image


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is he aurora booster the same as the aurora 2? As in how long it's made for a system because I ordered it from ppc and two things one bottle is clear and half empty and warning labels saying not for long use. Anyone help me out here. Did ppc mess my order up or is there no aurora 2 booster


Aurora Booster is essentially just the effect of Aurora. It needs to be mixed with Distilled, X1, XT-1 or pastel if you want to be like Cyphon. I'd avoid mixing it with just distilled, as you want surfactants and biocides. As far as longevity the particle size should be extremely similar to whatever the most recent aurora (2) revision is. The warning label is just a disclaimer to reduce liability from users who use Aurora without knowing it's limitations.

On that note, be sure your system works well with Aurora.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alerean*
> 
> Hey guys. Since I've never used any Mayhem products, I figured this would be the place to make an inquiry. What should I get to match the red accents on the MB below? Normally it wouldn't matter, but I'm planning on adding the same colour accents to my radiators so it'd be a shame if the red coolant didn't match (or even worse, was totally off). I'm leaning towards the X1 Blood Red with blue dye as an assurance, but having never seen it or the pastel red in person I can't tell if that's the one I want. Thanks!
> 
> Open the original, this is a massive image


If you're trying to match an exact colour it's best to start with clear (or white if you use pastel) and dye it accordingly. For X1 I'd start by adding some red dye, and when you get the "intensity" you want, use extremely small amounts of blue to darken it up. (if it needs to be darkened at all).

-Z


----------



## Alerean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If you're trying to match an exact colour it's best to start with clear (or white if you use pastel) and dye it accordingly. For X1 I'd start by adding some red dye, and when you get the "intensity" you want, use extremely small amounts of blue to darken it up. (if it needs to be darkened at all).
> 
> -Z


Thanks, that sounds like a pretty solid plan. I _love_ the flexibility you get with these products.

Edit: I've just stumbled on Mayhems clear tubing...That price must be a mistake, or there must be some caveat ($1.19 per foot!). Someone please tell me how this compares to PrimoFlex! I was planning to get some 7/16" ID 5/8" OD PrimoFlex but I might have to change my plans.


----------



## cookiesowns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alerean*
> 
> Thanks, that sounds like a pretty solid plan. I _love_ the flexibility you get with these products.
> 
> Edit: I've just stumbled on Mayhems clear tubing...That price must be a mistake, or there must be some caveat ($1.19 per foot!). Someone please tell me how this compares to PrimoFlex! I was planning to get some 7/16" ID 5/8" OD PrimoFlex but I might have to change my plans.


I'm not so sure the tubing is good... It's cheap sure...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1573961/distilled-for-2-weeks-mayhems-ultra-clear-residue-in-loop-help


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alerean*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If you're trying to match an exact colour it's best to start with clear (or white if you use pastel) and dye it accordingly. For X1 I'd start by adding some red dye, and when you get the "intensity" you want, use extremely small amounts of blue to darken it up. (if it needs to be darkened at all).
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, that sounds like a pretty solid plan. I _love_ the flexibility you get with these products.
> 
> Edit: I've just stumbled on Mayhems clear tubing...That price must be a mistake, or there must be some caveat ($1.19 per foot!). Someone please tell me how this compares to PrimoFlex! I was planning to get some 7/16" ID 5/8" OD PrimoFlex but I might have to change my plans.
Click to expand...

Mayhems Ultraclear Tubing contains no DEHP or Phthalate plasticizers. Basically on par or slightly better than Primochill Adv LRT, except it's mayhems so customer support and Quality Control is vastly superior than Primochill.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

We dont normally say anything is better than another product how ever we've sold over 90,000 meters in less than 2 months, local companies are even taking it in for food manufacturing and drinks dispensers too due to us passing all regulations and have full proof of what we have. Simply put its cheap because were buying it in bulk, selling it in bulk and making a small profit from it without ripping your eyeballs out. Tubing is not expensive to make and should be considered a throw away item hence should not cost you the earth. Its cheap and its better than all other water cooling brands on the market and its EU / US legal unlike some







. Basically its how should be.


----------



## catbuster

Mick do mayhems.net forums gonna work soon? Cant load site for 2 days


----------



## Mayhem

changed over to new ip address / place waiting for it , to filtrate through.


----------



## Alerean

Fair enough. I'll give it a go.









I'm sure this has been asked and answered a million times now, but is Blitz part 2 needed/useful with XSPC radiators? Specifically the EX line. From what I've read it sounds like part 2 is closer to a standard soapy wash than part 1, which is more acidic. I'd think I'll avoid part 1 if that is indeed the case.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alerean*
> 
> Thanks, that sounds like a pretty solid plan. I _love_ the flexibility you get with these products.
> 
> Edit: I've just stumbled on Mayhems clear tubing...That price must be a mistake, or there must be some caveat ($1.19 per foot!). Someone please tell me how this compares to PrimoFlex! I was planning to get some 7/16" ID 5/8" OD PrimoFlex but I might have to change my plans.


I got primoflex and the mayhems ultra clear since they were short on the one i ordered. I honestly can't tell the difference although one did have a slight blue tint to it (don't know which was which, i used blue fluid so i don't care) I'll try and figure it out and let you know. When i need more I'll be buying the mayhems for sure


----------



## Alerean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I got primoflex and the mayhems ultra clear since they were short on the one i ordered. I honestly can't tell the difference although one did have a slight blue tint to it (don't know which was which, i used blue fluid so i don't care) I'll try and figure it out and let you know. When i need more I'll be buying the mayhems for sure


That'd be much appreciated, although I'm not too worried about staining. And to be honest with it being so much cheaper it's not much of a risk even if it does stain.


----------



## SteezyTN

I absolutely love the Mayhems tubing. Super flexible and super cheap. The only thing I'm mad about is the fact that I didn't order more. I had to make some sacrifices because I didn't have enough. Next time I'll be sure to order 20 or 30 feet.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alerean*
> 
> That'd be much appreciated, although I'm not too worried about staining. And to be honest with it being so much cheaper it's not much of a risk even if it does stain.


As the man himself said:
Quote:


> Its not staining the tubing it being sucked into the tubing which you cannot stop. If you drop it on your carpet you can simply dab it up or it its on you hands you can wipe off. It should not stain you block unless you blocks suck it up lol.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/11040_20#post_23954997
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I absolutely love the Mayhems tubing. Super flexible and super cheap. The only thing I'm mad about is the fact that I didn't order more. I had to make some sacrifices because I didn't have enough. Next time I'll be sure to order 20 or 30 feet.


Haha yes, and people thought I was weird when I bought 50 feet of the stuff. So easy to cut and so insanely flexible.


----------



## Alerean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I absolutely love the Mayhems tubing. Super flexible and super cheap. The only thing I'm mad about is the fact that I didn't order more. I had to make some sacrifices because I didn't have enough. Next time I'll be sure to order 20 or 30 feet.


Damn, how big is your loop? I tend to plan for ages and make precise cuts, so I usually only end up with a few feet spare. I love that you can buy a specific amount rather than a pre-packaged length. Just that convenience is enough to make it worth it I think.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alerean*
> 
> Damn, how big is your loop? I tend to plan for ages and make precise cuts, so I usually only end up with a few feet spare. I love that you can buy a specific amount rather than a pre-packaged length. Just that convenience is enough to make it worth it I think.




Looped around the back and all the tubing in the basement.


----------



## Alerean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Looped around the back and all the tubing in the basement.


Did you paint the red on those Corsair fan rings or is that just the shade of red they come in? I used to use Noctua's so I've always had my fans hidden behind the radiators, but with sexy fans like those I might swap them around.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alerean*
> 
> Did you paint the red on those Corsair fan rings or is that just the shade of red they come in? I used to use Noctua's so I've always had my fans hidden behind the radiators, but with sexy fans like those I might swap them around.


They come with red, white, and blue. I didn't touch anything.


----------



## Alerean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> They come with red, white, and blue. I didn't touch anything.


Cool. Thanks.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alerean*
> 
> Cool. Thanks.


They aren't the best performance though. If you really want to get the best performance from the corsair fans, you'll need the High Performance edition versions with them at the highest speed. I ordered the EK vardars for the bottom rads. Those balance out the Corsair ones. I'll eventually replace all the corsair ones with the vardars


----------



## Alerean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> They aren't the best performance though. If you really want to get the best performance from the corsair fans, you'll need the High Performance edition versions with them at the highest speed. I ordered the EK vardars for the bottom rads. Those balance out the Corsair ones. I'll eventually replace all the corsair ones with the vardars


Yeah I use Vardar F4-120ER's and they are pretty amazing. They are black as well unlike their other ones.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alerean*
> 
> Yeah I use Vardar F4-120ER's and they are pretty amazing. They are black as well unlike their other ones.


I have the 120ERs and 140ERs, but I'm sending the 140s back because of the recal


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

I've used Corsair SP120s, Vardar 1850s, and Gentle Typhoon 2150s. The SP120s were terrible, just because they were average fans. The Vardars were great, a huge improvement in both noise and sound profile but I didn't like that they were PWM. I switched to GTs for the voltage control and excellence but have no idea how their sound profile will be as it's still summer and the AC is cranking. I did briefly try a few 1450 GTs back in the winter and at full speed I didn't like the way they sounded compared to 1450 on the Vardars so I hope in a few weeks it won't come back to that once the outside temps drop below 65.


----------



## ppkstat

Yes well..the GTs are at the top of absolute sound levels, but sound levels are not the whole story. Some find the GT sound unbearable. Plus many of them do not behave well when undervolting and produce resonance sound at certain rpms. I have six of them resting on a shelf in my house, I use NB-eloops now (which of course have certain problems as well). Haven't tried the Vardars yet though.
If your ok with the sound GTs produce and run them near their full power they can be the best fans by far. I myself prefer the NBs.


----------



## Alerean

The only thing I like about the SP120's are the looks. I run my fans at low RPM, so performance differences between fans are generally negligible. Between the AC in my room and three thick rads my loop maintains pretty low temps regardless of fan speed. I wish more companies did something like what Corsair does with the interchangeable/paintable rings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If you're trying to match an exact colour it's best to start with clear (or white if you use pastel) and dye it accordingly. For X1 I'd start by adding some red dye, and when you get the "intensity" you want, use extremely small amounts of blue to darken it up. (if it needs to be darkened at all).
> 
> -Z


After re-reading this post I realised that pastel white might actually look nicer than X1 Blood Red. Since I should be able to get a red with dye anyway if white doesn't look nice that seems a perfect solution. It's hard to visualise. Black case, RoG black and red MB, matte black fittings although I can always change that, black acetal blocks... I've never used white coolant, but it looks damn nice in the builds I've seen so far. I also have some soft white LED's that might work with it.


----------



## catbuster

@Mayhem

Mick any plans to make coloured tubing?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> Mick any plans to make coloured tubing?


Blasphemy!

-Z


----------



## mattxx88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Blasphemy!
> 
> -Z


+1


----------



## catbuster

I know i know i love pastel. but


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Mick do mayhems.net forums gonna work soon? Cant load site for 2 days


Now sorted , winner chosen on there, all done


----------



## Mayhem

We are considering colourd tubing yes, black, white and basic colours only with a twist.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We are considering colourd tubing yes, black, white and basic colours only with a twist.


Tie dye tubing?


----------



## Alerean

I'm a tad confused about Blitz part 1. From what I'm reading, it seems like whether it's necessary varies between manufacturers and coolant types and colours. Should I bother with Part 1 with XSPC EX radiators and Ice White pastel (with red and blue dye's)?


----------



## emsj86

Is the slight twist that the color is on an inner tube on the inside of the tube


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alerean*
> 
> I'm a tad confused about Blitz part 1. From what I'm reading, it seems like whether it's necessary varies between manufacturers and coolant types and colours. Should I bother with Part 1 with XSPC EX radiators and Ice White pastel (with red and blue dye's)?


If you already have it on hand why not. If you don't have blitz 1 XSPC uses ultrasonic cleaning to prep their rads before distribution, which (should) be the industry standard. You *should* be good without a blitz for XSPC rads.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We are considering colourd tubing yes, black, white and basic colours only with a twist.


I MIGHT know where that is going given your prior projects that were finished but never put into production.

-Z


----------



## Alerean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If you already have it on hand why not. If you don't have blitz 1 XSPC uses ultrasonic cleaning to prep their rads before distribution, which (should) be the industry standard. You *should* be good without a blitz for XSPC rads.
> 
> -Z


I figured, thanks. I don't have either Blitz right now, but I'm planning on getting part 2 since I'm very likely to have use of it over the next few months (moving to the states soon







).


----------



## emsj86

So I added mayhems aurora 2 10ml silver booster to my loop. I have one ddc pump (at 100 percent) 2 780s ek block, supremacy block, ut60 480 and ek 360 xe. Now I have a 1.76 liter unit. Says 5ml max per liter. I added the whole 10ml and still can barely see anything. All I see is a slight silver once in awhile. Here it is. Is there anything I can do. Any tips @mayhem?,


----------



## Methodical

Hey, hey I am just getting into water cooling and have narrowed down the items for my build, however, I have a question as I have decided to use clear tubing, so that I can change colors if I get bored of one. I'm thinking of using Mayhems Pastel Pure Black Concentrate with distilled water. Will there be an issue using this with clear hardline tubes?

Thanks...Al


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Hey, hey I am just getting into water cooling and have narrowed down the items for my build, however, I have a question as I have decided to use clear tubing, so that I can change colors if I get bored of one. I'm thinking of using Mayhems Pastel Pure Black Concentrate with distilled water. Will there be an issue using this with clear hardline tubes?
> 
> Thanks...Al


No issues with rigid tubing. Be sure your rads are clean, Pastel Black is the most sensitive to pH of any coolant.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So I added mayhems aurora 2 10ml silver booster to my loop. I have one ddc pump (at 100 percent) 2 780s ek block, supremacy block, ut60 480 and ek 360 xe. Now I have a 1.76 liter unit. Says 5ml max per liter. I added the whole 10ml and still can barely see anything. All I see is a slight silver once in awhile. Here it is. Is there anything I can do. Any tips @mayhem?,


Aurora booster is what it says it boosts Aurora but can be used as a product to add to other products such as X1, Xt1 and Pastel. Now Pastel is a light blocker and there blocks light and Aurora is a light reflector which means it reflects light. If you have a strong colour such as a deep blue in pastel then you have two opposing forces in action meaning it will only shimmer. You can keep adding aurora booster if you wish but this is up to you and taken at your own risk.

If you read the info for Aurora booster on our site ->

_Mayhems Aurora Booster is a "add on effect only" additive. Aurora Booster can be added to any off Mayhems coolants to give an Light reflective effect._

(in your email you said the bottle was only half full) The bottles are never filled fully as we need to leave an air gap in the bottle for air shipping purposes and pressure changes. However 2 QC checks are in place to stop under filling and over filling so if you're saying it was only half full I would need to see photos of proof of a unopened bottle and it would need to be returned to us direct to checked weight and if it's been tampered with.

The same response i gave you in your email.


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Aurora booster is what it says it boosts Aurora but can be used as a product to add to other products such as X1, Xt1 and Pastel. Now Pastel is a light blocker and there blocks light and Aurora is a light reflector which means it reflects light. If you have a strong colour such as a deep blue in pastel then you have two opposing forces in action meaning it will only shimmer. You can keep adding aurora booster if you wish but this is up to you and taken at your own risk.
> 
> If you read the info for Aurora booster on our site ->
> 
> _Mayhems Aurora Booster is a "add on effect only" additive. Aurora Booster can be added to any off Mayhems coolants to give an Light reflective effect._
> 
> (in your email you said the bottle was only half full) The bottles are never filled fully as we need to leave an air gap in the bottle for air shipping purposes and pressure changes. However 2 QC checks are in place to stop under filling and over filling so if you're saying it was only half full I would need to see photos of proof of a unopened bottle and it would need to be returned to us direct to checked weight and if it's been tampered with.
> 
> The same response i gave you in your email.


Weight in grams, weighed 3 times each.





The bottles of Dye averaged 23-24 grams from the 7 Unopened bottles I weighed.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> No issues with rigid tubing. Be sure your rads are clean, Pastel Black is the most sensitive to pH of any coolant.
> 
> -Z


Cool thanks. Cleaning with distilled water should be enough, correct?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> No issues with rigid tubing. Be sure your rads are clean, Pastel Black is the most sensitive to pH of any coolant.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Cool thanks. Cleaning with distilled water should be enough, correct?
Click to expand...

Depends on the radiator manufacturer. Some don't need to be cleaned with anything other than a warm water flush. Some need a straight up acid flush (Blitz cleaning kit) Please list rad manu, rad model, and date of purchase.

-Z


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Depends on the radiator manufacturer. Some don't need to be cleaned with anything other than a warm water flush. Some need a straight up acid flush (Blitz cleaning kit) Please list rad manu, rad model, and date of purchase.
> 
> -Z


XSPC RX360 and 120mm radiator - purchasing tomorrow

Thanks


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Depends on the radiator manufacturer. Some don't need to be cleaned with anything other than a warm water flush. Some need a straight up acid flush (Blitz cleaning kit) Please list rad manu, rad model, and date of purchase.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC RX360 and 120mm radiator - purchasing tomorrow
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

XSPCs are pretty darn clean. You should be good with a hot distilled flush.

-Z


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> XSPCs are pretty darn clean. You should be good with a hot distilled flush.
> 
> -Z


Thanks for you input. I'll be ordering the rest of my stuff today. It adds up real quick, but I am excited to start water cooling

Al


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Aurora booster is what it says it boosts Aurora but can be used as a product to add to other products such as X1, Xt1 and Pastel. Now Pastel is a light blocker and there blocks light and Aurora is a light reflector which means it reflects light. If you have a strong colour such as a deep blue in pastel then you have two opposing forces in action meaning it will only shimmer. You can keep adding aurora booster if you wish but this is up to you and taken at your own risk.
> 
> If you read the info for Aurora booster on our site ->
> 
> _Mayhems Aurora Booster is a "add on effect only" additive. Aurora Booster can be added to any off Mayhems coolants to give an Light reflective effect._
> 
> (in your email you said the bottle was only half full) The bottles are never filled fully as we need to leave an air gap in the bottle for air shipping purposes and pressure changes. However 2 QC checks are in place to stop under filling and over filling so if you're saying it was only half full I would need to see photos of proof of a unopened bottle and it would need to be returned to us direct to checked weight and if it's been tampered with.
> 
> The same response i gave you in your email.


Thanks for the fast response. I tried wish it would have have me the look I was going for but I understand now why. Oh well what can ya do. For me saying the bottle was half full I only asked. I wasn't saying it was anyone's fault. Just from what I saw on the website it wasn't a clear bottle so I was just making sure is all


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh were chainging bottles to new ones on every thing as our old supplier simply put, was crap and we had issues with leaking bottles so changed them. E.g we now have new 1 Ltr bottles that are being rolled out. My issue though is i simply do not have time to take photos of bottles as were so darn bissy.

Mick


----------



## Methodical

I guess I am the only odd ball when it comes to color around by sticking with a normal type color. I am going with pure black.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> I guess I am the only odd ball when it comes to color around by sticking with a normal type color. I am going with pure black.


Naw, I feel ya there. I like builds where the coolant/tubing are more of a compliment to the build rather than the center of attention.

-Z


----------



## Alerean

Any news on the Pastel Extreme products that were teased?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alerean*
> 
> Any news on the Pastel Extreme products that were teased?


Been wondering the same.


----------



## Alerean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Been wondering the same.


Yeah, although considering I just bought some of the current stuff I sort of hope it's not _too_ soon.


----------



## v1ral

Anyone use pastel in an H220x?
When I expand I will be using mayhems tubing and if the word is good on the pastel and my cooler, I'll be ordering some.


----------



## Mayhem

Waiting bottles that's all it is for Pastel Extreme. Nothing more the Products been ready to go for a while.

What are your thoughts on PE







.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Waiting bottles that's all it is for Pastel Extreme. Nothing more the Products been ready to go for a while.
> 
> What are your thoughts on PE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Is PE more resilient in regards to dirty rads? From memory PE is colored nanoparticles or something and there's no actual dye?


----------



## Alerean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Waiting bottles that's all it is for Pastel Extreme. Nothing more the Products been ready to go for a while.
> 
> What are your thoughts on PE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Damn, literally just bought some Pastel. Oh well, it gives me a chance to compare the two I guess.


----------



## Mayhem

Just flushing one of the test rigs with glass tubing installed.


----------



## Alerean

Bends in _glass_? How?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Anyone use pastel in an H220x?
> When I expand I will be using mayhems tubing and if the word is good on the pastel and my cooler, I'll be ordering some.


I used it on a glacier 240l which had a worse pump than the swiftech. Also I've seen other do it as well should be fine. On another note is there a video up on bending the glass very interested in what I need. I have a acetylene tourch for work but not sure if that will work.


----------



## Mayhem




----------



## M3TAl

Looks amazing.


----------



## emsj86

What exact fluid is that mayhems aurora 2 blue (any dyes added?) that's the look I'm trying to get. Or is that x1 blue with aurora booster


----------



## Mayhem




----------



## Barefooter

That Aurora is just stunning!


----------



## Mayhem

Its a 2 x bottles of Aurora booster silver + blue dye (2.5mls) and X1 concentrate in to 1.2 Ltrs of water.

The system is mayhems quad pass rad, MB block, GPU Block and CPU block in a slow pump 848 ltrs per hour ... running as seen ...


----------



## 414347

OK! I can tell the straight tubing looks like a glass, but the bend one








Aurora looks amazing but the tubing am I right about the bend one being acrylic and if I'm wrong how on earth you bend them?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> url="/


Hey sir, thanks for taking the time to help us out here! About two weeks ago I started using mayhems aurora 2 blue, from performance pcs. First off this stuff looks amazing, Incredible work! I started noticing some fading of the coloring as well as the "silver" to the point that i could see the clear flow disruptor (which was not visable for the first two weeks).

I am using Ek L120 kit r2.0 with an additional magicool slim 240mm rad and a ek vga supremacy universal gpu block. 6 straight fittings, 2 45s and 4 90s i think (photos pre-aurora in profile). I'm assuming it is my pump that is insufficient to push the aurora through with the additional rad and vga block. But if there is anything else i can do such as ph levels side i still have half a bottle of the concentrate that would be great.
Thanks much!
Sorry this post is a mess I'm on mobile


----------



## catbuster

Dat Aurora looks amazing


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> url="/
> 
> 
> 
> Hey sir, thanks for taking the time to help us out here! About two weeks ago I started using mayhems aurora 2 blue, from performance pcs. First off this stuff looks amazing, Incredible work! I started noticing some fading of the coloring as well as the "silver" to the point that i could see the clear flow disruptor (which was not visable for the first two weeks).
> 
> I am using Ek L120 kit r2.0 with an additional magicool slim 240mm rad and a ek vga supremacy universal gpu block. 6 straight fittings, 2 45s and 4 90s i think (photos pre-aurora in profile). I'm assuming it is my pump that is insufficient to push the aurora through with the additional rad and vga block. But if there is anything else i can do such as ph levels side i still have half a bottle of the concentrate that would be great.
> Thanks much!
> Sorry this post is a mess I'm on mobile
Click to expand...

Contact me direct [email protected] via email, plz inc photos and ill see how we can help you out.

Mick

@NewUser16 the glass tubes are bent. Perfect bends .......


----------



## Domler

@Mayhem Hey Mick, question about that beautiful glass. I remember earlier you said push in fittings only. I was wondering if that still holds true. Of course the day you announced that the glass is for sale, was the same day that all my bitspower 12od enhanced fitting showed up. $300 bucks worth. Wondering if I have to start over with fittings or if they are ok. Also I was wondering what the id of the 12od is. Plan on running aurora 2 red. Love the vid. It looks so amazing. Thank you for your time.


----------



## Mayhem

From the looks of the fittings they would work fine. The ones we used are the Alphacool HT 16mm HardTube compression fitting


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> From the looks of the fittings they would work fine. The ones we used are the Alphacool HT 16mm HardTube compression fitting


Mick, you are the man!!! Just ran around the house doing my happy dance. Be glad you can't see it. It's ugly. Thursday I'm placing my order and will gladly eat that shipping cost to the US now. Sir, you just made my day. Thank you.


----------



## Mayhem

PPC are getting some in so hold back and save your selfs some pennys / cents and you can by direct from them







.


----------



## 7akata

Mick, maybe I missed it, but do you have an info page on how you're bending the glass.


----------



## Mayhem

Its hand bent at 1500c (bare gas flame) and then annealed in a oven @ 1700c so its hardened again.


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its hand bent at 1500c (bare gas flame) and then annealed in a oven @ 1700c so its hardened again.


----------



## Alerean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its hand bent at 1500c (bare gas flame) and then annealed in a oven @ 1700c so its hardened again.


----------



## 414347

So this is not the same way you doing it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oE_26YP0IRM seem pretty simple, but again, sometimes it looks easier than it's done.
I am always up to new adventuresses and challenges I can hardly wait


----------



## Mayhem

You cannot fire polish this as it will weaken the glass. Your better off taking some carbon wet and dry and sanding it down with water, The fit is better than heat polishing the edges and fits better into fittings.




Excuse my ignorance while chomping down on chewing gum ....


----------



## Ramzinho

guys what's the good ph level for using pastel?


----------



## Mayhem

perfect level is 7.2


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You cannot fire polish this as it will weaken the glass. Your better off taking some carbon wet and dry and sanding it down with water, The fit is better than heat polishing the edges and fits better into fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse my ignorance while chomping down on chewing gum ....


Is that colored glass tubing or regular glass tubing with red dye? Looks amazing.


----------



## Mayhem

its just glass tube with orange dye in the background,


----------



## rolldog

I'm in the process of upgrading my watercooling system, which started by only needing waterblocks for my new GPUs. I've been looking at many different coolants on the market, and I must say, this coolant seems to produce the best looking colors I've ever seen, especially being able to darken, or change, the color with the dye.

To go along with the color scheme in my rig, I've been looking for a red coolant, which you obviously have. The question I have is although it's not necessary, I would love to have a UV reactive red. The bad thing is, just about any UV red coolant I've seen on the market produces a pink color. Some are pink to begin with and then turn red under UV and some might be red to begin with, but then turn pink under UV. Is there a good mixture of coolant and dye you would recommend, like the X1 UV red with a couple of drops of red dye or another UV coolant with some red dye applied? I didn't see a UV red concentrate in the XT-1, but I may have overlooked it. Also, I understand that the red will probably stain faster than any other color, but if used with PETG acrylic tubing does it stain this tubing any faster than it would regular acrylic tubing or flexible tubing?


----------



## Mayhem

UV Red will be soaked up by PTEG and should be better with acrylic or glass tubing. Any UV red dye uses UV pink as its UV reactive part there is no avoidance of staining or the pinkish look this im afraid to say.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> perfect level is 7.2


water coming out of two rads one is 7.6 and one is 6.8 is that fine?

Edit the used rad after multi flushes came down to 7.3.. the new rad is at 6.9 though...


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> water coming out of two rads one is 7.6 and one is 6.8 is that fine?


What are you using to measure pH? Might be within error margin.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> What are you using to measure pH? Might be within error margin.


i'm using the pH meter like the one that comes with mayhem blitz kit. i calibrated it this morning


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> water coming out of two rads one is 7.6 and one is 6.8 is that fine?
> 
> Edit the used rad after multi flushes came down to 7.3.. the new rad is at 6.9 though...


6.5 to 7.5 is likely within margin of error. I would have no issue doing a final flush and then filling it up for use.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> 6.5 to 7.5 is likely within margin of error. I would have no issue doing a final flush and then filling it up for use.


thanks xander


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Naw, I feel ya there. I like builds where the coolant/tubing are more of a compliment to the build rather than the center of attention.
> 
> -Z


Ahh cool. That's how I am, too, even in real life.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> XSPCs are pretty darn clean. You should be good with a hot distilled flush.
> 
> -Z


Another question on cleaning radiator. Do I need to let the distilled water sit in the radiator after shaking it up?

Thanks


----------



## DoktorTerror

Pastel Orange












for more pics:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1509085/sponsored-new-line-orange-update-pag-5-final-pics/80_20#post_24439254


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alerean*
> 
> That'd be much appreciated, although I'm not too worried about staining. And to be honest with it being so much cheaper it's not much of a risk even if it does stain.


so i finally took a closer look and assuming i got what perf pcs said i got (mayhems ultra clear and primoflex lrt) then i can definitely tell some differences and they both have their own strengths. I can't speak for their chemical integrity at all but it seems the mayhems is definitely more clear and easier to look at with clear fluid, it also feels thicker and a bit harder to bend. I'd definitely recommend warming the tubing with warm water before fitting them, otherwise it was a bit difficult but not bad at all. I felt like it gave a better fit in my compression fittings while warmed. The Primoflex lrt is wicked flexible! Seems to fit just fine without warming and makes just about any bend look easy. It also has a slight blue tint to it. I probably would not notice but compared to the mayhems it is noticeable at times. Overall i like the mayhems more and will buy that next time for sure. I did use the primoflex in a couple spots where the flexibility was helpful and somewhat hidden.
Hope this helps!


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Waiting bottles that's all it is for Pastel Extreme. Nothing more the Products been ready to go for a while.
> 
> What are your thoughts on PE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Will the pricing remain the same as regular pastel?


----------



## atomicus

I'm trying to find photos of any builds using Mayhems X1 UV Purple... does anyone know of any builds on here with some photos? I've had a skim through this thread and have seen a few UV colours but not the purple, but maybe I've missed some.

Also, any advice on what the best UV strip would be to use with this?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I'm trying to find photos of any builds using Mayhems X1 UV Purple... does anyone know of any builds on here with some photos? I've had a skim through this thread and have seen a few UV colours but not the purple, but maybe I've missed some.
> 
> Also, any advice on what the best UV strip would be to use with this?


This?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Mayhems X1 UV Purple


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> This?


It looks great, but is that UV? I thought UV was clear until the UV light 'activated' it?


----------



## Alerean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Also, any advice on what the best UV strip would be to use with this?


I'd get a strip of DarkSide Connect. It's insanely configurable and the quality is the best I've seen so far. I power my two strips via a 3-pin Y-splitter with a low voltage adapter, but you can power it by SATA and Molex as well. Very neat stuff.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> It looks great, but is that UV? I thought UV was clear until the UV light 'activated' it?


The coolant is colored but also UV. There's no UV lighting going on in that picture though, that's just the color of the coolant.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alerean*
> 
> I'd get a strip of DarkSide Connect. It's insanely configurable and the quality is the best I've seen so far. I power my two strips via a 3-pin Y-splitter with a low voltage adapter, but you can power it by SATA and Molex as well. Very neat stuff.


Great, thanks.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The coolant is colored but also UV. There's no UV lighting going on in that picture though, that's just the color of the coolant.


I didn't realise that, great bonus! Looks excellent.


----------



## ali13245

Hey guys I am going to be using distilled water in my loop for a while until PE comes out, and I wanted to know if I can/should use this in my loop?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-biocide-extreme.html


----------



## cookiesowns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> so i finally took a closer look and assuming i got what perf pcs said i got (mayhems ultra clear and primoflex lrt) then i can definitely tell some differences and they both have their own strengths. I can't speak for their chemical integrity at all but it seems the mayhems is definitely more clear and easier to look at with clear fluid, it also feels thicker and a bit harder to bend. I'd definitely recommend warming the tubing with warm water before fitting them, otherwise it was a bit difficult but not bad at all. I felt like it gave a better fit in my compression fittings while warmed. The Primoflex lrt is wicked flexible! Seems to fit just fine without warming and makes just about any bend look easy. It also has a slight blue tint to it. I probably would not notice but compared to the mayhems it is noticeable at times. Overall i like the mayhems more and will buy that next time for sure. I did use the primoflex in a couple spots where the flexibility was helpful and somewhat hidden.
> Hope this helps!


You sure you don't have that reversed?

Mayhems ultra clear is slightly more flexible ( better bend radius ) and has a blue tint to it. Primoflex LRT is more clear, and very slightly less flexible than the mayhems ultra clear.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookiesowns*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> so i finally took a closer look and assuming i got what perf pcs said i got (mayhems ultra clear and primoflex lrt) then i can definitely tell some differences and they both have their own strengths. I can't speak for their chemical integrity at all but it seems the mayhems is definitely more clear and easier to look at with clear fluid, it also feels thicker and a bit harder to bend. I'd definitely recommend warming the tubing with warm water before fitting them, otherwise it was a bit difficult but not bad at all. I felt like it gave a better fit in my compression fittings while warmed. The Primoflex lrt is wicked flexible! Seems to fit just fine without warming and makes just about any bend look easy. It also has a slight blue tint to it. I probably would not notice but compared to the mayhems it is noticeable at times. Overall i like the mayhems more and will buy that next time for sure. I did use the primoflex in a couple spots where the flexibility was helpful and somewhat hidden.
> Hope this helps!
> 
> 
> 
> You sure you don't have that reversed?
> 
> Mayhems ultra clear is slightly more flexible ( better bend radius ) and has a blue tint to it. Primoflex LRT is more clear, and *very slightly less flexible than the mayhems ultra clear*.
Click to expand...

Depends. My larger diameter Mayehms tubing is quite a bit more rigid out of the package than my old primoflex adv lrt of the same ID/OD. As he states, when my loop has been running for an hour or so at load, and the coolant heats up, I can notice the tubing is a lot easier to move around/more flexible. I've also noticed my Mayhems ultraclear REALLY doesn't like to kink, which is odd considering I'm using 1/2" ID 3/4" OD which has notorious for kinking in my experience.

-Z


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookiesowns*
> 
> You sure you don't have that reversed?
> 
> Mayhems ultra clear is slightly more flexible ( better bend radius ) and has a blue tint to it. Primoflex LRT is more clear, and very slightly less flexible than the mayhems ultra clear.


They did not come in factory packaging since i got a smaller amount. They were wrapped in plastic and had mayhems or primoflex written on the wrapping. I used only the one marked mayhems and then when i was redoing a few things i got into the one marked primoflex and it was quite a bit softer. Perf pcs definitely could've mixed them up though.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Hey guys I am going to be using distilled water in my loop for a while until PE comes out, and I wanted to know if I can/should use this in my loop?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-biocide-extreme.html


Biocide Extreme is absolutely great stuff, I've been using it for months with distilled water and I can tell you, I've never had water that clear, best anti-algae product.
Don't overdo it,1 drop per liter that's all it takes and add 1 drop after 3 months and so on so forth.


----------



## 414347

That is beautiful color


----------



## electro2u

Bleh I hate seeing that picture. Everything is so amateur and the only thing that looks perfect is the color of the coolant









I may go back to X1 purple because this has happened with most recent build.





As far as I can tell my BP tube reservoir is untouched, but the acrylic faceplate on my monsoon bay res has reacted strangely to Pastel Raspberry. I have no possible explanation for this other than I've polished the acrylic? I assume I can get it darker by adding some red dye? I was considering getting a new faceplate for the res since they sell them separately. Hopefully it will resist the staining, but maybe if I pull that one off there I can still use it after polishing it again--without the pastel.


----------



## Ramzinho

750Ml of distilled + 250mL for Mayhem pastel White + 14 Drops of blue non stain dye.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> 750Ml of distilled + 250mL for Mayhem pastel White + 14 Drops of blue non stain dye.


Nice. I just so happen to have some of that sitting on a shelf, just not non staining. Need to change up the sunset yellow I've been running for a year.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> 750Ml of distilled + 250mL for Mayhem pastel White + 14 Drops of blue non stain dye.


Very very nice


----------



## ali13245

Hey Mick is PE going to come out before the end of this year?


----------



## Mayhem

Bottles have landed in the UK on Sunday, They were off loaded today, were hoping to have them shipped across the country to us with in the next 5 days were it will be all hands on deck to make them, then they need shipping down to the werehouse were they will be distributed. Btw this isnt a sales post it answering a question above ....


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Very very nice


Thanks mick. wont be possible without your help man. Amazing coolant and amazing color


----------



## Mayhem

The new none stain colours really are good how ever i wish they were cheaper how ever due to the time it takes to make them it really just isn't possible.


----------



## ppkstat

Just received a NEW version of an alphacool rad and I am about to use blitz on it (both parts). Problem is that the new alphacool rads come with nickel plated plugs and thus it may be unsafe to use part 1.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Anateus

I must say I am impressed with non stain blue. Mixed with x1 clear, this thing is BEAUTIFUL in higher concentration. Cant wait to set up white LEDs and take photos.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> Just received a NEW version of an alphacool rad and I am about to use blitz on it (both parts). Problem is that the new alphacool rads come with nickel plated plugs and thus it may be unsafe to use part 1.
> 
> Any suggestions?


Afaik new alphacool rads are way cleaner than the old ones. I suggest you just flush with distilled and see how much stuff is inside before blitzing.


----------



## ppkstat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Afaik new alphacool rads are way cleaner than the old ones. I suggest you just flush with distilled and see how much stuff is inside before blitzing.


I already bought the kit so I might as well use it if possible.

Does anybody have an idea how I am going to bypass the nickel plugs problem?


----------



## Anateus

Use plugs that are not nickel (from a pump or waterblock)?


----------



## ppkstat

All the plugs I have are nickel plated! Well or just something-plated.

I have tons of EK plugs but I am pretty sure these are nickel plated as well. In fact the only copper plugs I've seen in the past are the ones from old alphacool rads.

I can get these voltstorm black ones locally that they appear to be just painted (?). I don't know if it's a good idea though.


----------



## 7akata

Did I miss something? Why are we discussing not using normal nickel plated plugs?


----------



## ppkstat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> Did I miss something? Why are we discussing not using normal nickel plated plugs?


It's me who have might have missed something. I thought part 1 and plated surfaces do not go together since part 1 is acidic. I might be wrong though.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> All the plugs I have are nickel plated! Well or just something-plated.
> 
> I have tons of EK plugs but I am pretty sure these are nickel plated as well. In fact the only copper plugs I've seen in the past are the ones from old alphacool rads.
> 
> I can get these voltstorm black ones locally that they appear to be just painted (?). I don't know if it's a good idea though.


The reason you don't use Blitz Part 1 on nickle plated products is because it can/will strip the plating. If you don't mind stripping the nickle plating on your plug just use the nickle plated ones. Or you could just toss a couple nickle plated ones in a solution of solution of hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) and hydrogen peroxide and strip the plating, and essentially make it into a copper plug. It sounds like you have more than a few spare. Or you could just buy a couple non plated ones. You can get em for a a buck or two.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> Did I miss something? Why are we discussing not using normal nickel plated plugs?


He wants to blitz his rad, but only have nickle plated plugs and you're not supposed to use blitz with nickle plated products.

-Z


----------



## 7akata

Thanks for the clear up, I thought I had made a horrible mistake!


----------



## ppkstat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> The reason you don't use Blitz Part 1 on nickle plated products is because it can/will strip the plating. If you don't mind stripping the nickle plating on your plug just use the nickle plated ones. Or you could just toss a couple nickle plated ones in a solution of solution of hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) and hydrogen peroxide and strip the plating, and essentially make it into a copper plug. It sounds like you have more than a few spare. Or you could just buy a couple non plated ones. You can get em for a a buck or two.


Thank you +rep. You're right I don't mind sacrificing a few plugs. My biggest concern is the case in which some nickel plating flakes of from the plugs and getting stuck into the radiator, if thats even possible.

Do you think the black ones I 've posted would be fine?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> The reason you don't use Blitz Part 1 on nickle plated products is because it can/will strip the plating. If you don't mind stripping the nickle plating on your plug just use the nickle plated ones. Or you could just toss a couple nickle plated ones in a solution of solution of hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) and hydrogen peroxide and strip the plating, and essentially make it into a copper plug. It sounds like you have more than a few spare. Or you could just buy a couple non plated ones. You can get em for a a buck or two.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you +rep. You're right I don't mind sacrificing a few plugs. My biggest concern is the case in which some nickel plating flakes of from the plugs and getting stuck into the radiator, if thats even possible.
> *
> Do you think the black ones I 've posted would be fine*?
Click to expand...

Probably. More than likely the black fittings are powder coated, which shouldn't react with the phosphoric acid.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Plated fitting are fine "IF" they are plated correctly and have no pin holes or flaking. If they do they will get stripped with part 1.


----------



## Dave6531

Alright mayhem2 users need some input. First I'm building my first loop and using 2 black ice radiators should I use blitz in these or just flushing using distilled would be sufficient? Also looking for a color similar to this.
Any suggestions, not sure if the blood red is close to or the uv red any other options. Looking to get a red hydraulic fluid look.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Alright mayhem2 users need some input. First I'm building my first loop and using 2 black ice radiators should I use blitz in these or just flushing using distilled would be sufficient? Also looking for a color similar to this.
> Any suggestions, not sure if the blood red is close to or the uv red any other options. Looking to get a red hydraulic fluid look.


Best bet is to start with clear base. (X1 or XT-1) and use dyes. For that colour, I'd start with red dye until you get roughly the intensity you want, then add blue dye: not ocean blue but normal blue, ocean blue will probably darken it up too much.

You might also be able to roughly match the texture of the fluid in the image if you use Mayhems Pastel with Aurora Booster.

It would look roughly like this, except with the shade of red you want to be using.



-Z


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Best bet is to start with clear base. (X1 or XT-1) and use dyes. For that colour, I'd start with red dye until you get roughly the intensity you want, then add blue dye: not ocean blue but normal blue, ocean blue will probably darken it up too much.
> 
> You might also be able to roughly match the texture of the fluid in the image if you use Mayhems Pastel with Aurora Booster.
> 
> It would look roughly like this, except with the shade of red you want to be using.
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


Thanks for the info. Now whats the difference in X1 and XT-1 I was doing some reading on their site but still not sure.

Although I think the pastel and aurora looks nice the hydraulic fluid is transparent and I heard aurora isn't great for leaving for extended periods of time.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Best bet is to start with clear base. (X1 or XT-1) and use dyes. For that colour, I'd start with red dye until you get roughly the intensity you want, then add blue dye: not ocean blue but normal blue, ocean blue will probably darken it up too much.
> 
> You might also be able to roughly match the texture of the fluid in the image if you use Mayhems Pastel with Aurora Booster.
> 
> It would look roughly like this, except with the shade of red you want to be using.
> 
> 
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. Now *whats the difference in X1 and XT-1* I was doing some reading on their site but still not sure.
> 
> Although I think the pastel and aurora looks nice the hydraulic fluid is transparent and I heard aurora isn't great for leaving for extended periods of time.
Click to expand...

Main difference is they're completely different fluids that do exactly the same thing. X1 is a vegetable extract based fluid, while XT-1 is a non-toxic ethylene glycol based coolant. XT-1 can also be used as an anti-freeze if you plan on using a chiller. X1 is (usually) a bit cheaper depending on your location. Pick whichever one is cheaper or easier to obtain. Also, don't use any additives other than dyes or effect additives confirmed to work with them. No PT Nuke PHN, no I&H deadwater, no Biocide Extreme, etc. It's good to go, and adding additional *stuff* can cause adverse reactions.

-Z


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Main difference is they're completely different fluids that do exactly the same thing. X1 is a vegetable extract based fluid, while XT-1 is a non-toxic ethylene glycol based coolant. XT-1 can also be used as an anti-freeze if you plan on using a chiller. X1 is (usually) a bit cheaper depending on your location. Pick whichever one is cheaper or easier to obtain. Also, don't use any additives other than dyes or effect additives confirmed to work with them. No PT Nuke PHN, no I&H deadwater, no Biocide Extreme, etc. It's good to go, and adding additional *stuff* can cause adverse reactions.
> 
> -Z


Gotcha thanks for clearing that up for me.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Hey, @Mayhem... did you get into the booze business?

https://imgur.com/gallery/DGYLNu6


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Hey, @Mayhem... did you get into the booze business?
> 
> https://imgur.com/gallery/DGYLNu6


wow that is disguisting, is mica powder or glycol distearate even safe to digest ??


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Hey, @Mayhem... did you get into the booze business?
> 
> https://imgur.com/gallery/DGYLNu6


Nice find... cool how they use gelatin to suspend it.


----------



## Fischje

can i use pastel with aquacomputer filters?

any kind?


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Hey, @Mayhem... did you get into the booze business?
> 
> https://imgur.com/gallery/DGYLNu6
> 
> 
> 
> wow that is disguisting, is mica powder or glycol distearate even safe to digest ??
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Hey, @Mayhem... did you get into the booze business?
> 
> https://imgur.com/gallery/DGYLNu6
> 
> 
> 
> Nice find... cool how they use gelatin to suspend it.
Click to expand...

Disgusting is right. By all accounts, it tastes horrible.


----------



## Valgaur

Hello everyone!

I have a few questions.

I want to Mayhems pastel coolant but am totally unsure what color. I will have black and white already in the build, I'm thinking either white, black, green mint green and orange.

Forgot about purple









Any thoughts on these combinations?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> I have a few questions.
> 
> I want to Mayhems pastel coolant but am totally unsure what color. I will have black and white already in the build, I'm thinking either white, black, green mint green and orange.
> 
> Forgot about purple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on these combinations?


Black, White, and *Green*

The thought makes me tingle. (in a good, sexual way)

TCO


----------



## Domler

Package should up at work today

And this is how it's packaged

After removing all the popcorn and bubble wrap we have

And now for removing all the tightly wrapped tissue paper, we have e22 ultra clear on the left and mayhems glass on the right


Sorry for the potato phone pics. First impressions. Its stiff and heavy. That was expected. E22 is really nice stuff,but the mayhems, it's hard to put into words. The light shines better. I wipped both with a micro fiber and the e22 now has small scrathes in it. The glass, well, it's glass. Very hard to scratch. And after whipping it down, it seemed to almost glow. I'm gonna hit it with some Windex and see what happens. I can not wait to put this in my build. As always, thank you Mick for again setting new standards in pc water cooling. Bravo.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> I have a few questions.
> 
> I want to Mayhems pastel coolant but am totally unsure what color. I will have black and white already in the build, I'm thinking either white, black, green mint green and orange.
> 
> Forgot about purple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on these combinations?


Picture of the build itself would be great. Assuming there's no other colours in the build, from mobo heatsinks, graphics cards, etc. black and white will go with literally any and all colours so you could put any colour in there. A pic of the build itself so we could see what all is in there would be a great way to decide on what colours might match well.

-Z


----------



## sinnedone

Mayhems non stain blue dye with distilled, no processing


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Black, White, and *Green*
> 
> The thought makes me tingle. (in a good, sexual way)
> 
> TCO


Thats my thought
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Picture of the build itself would be great. Assuming there's no other colours in the build, from mobo heatsinks, graphics cards, etc. black and white will go with literally any and all colours so you could put any colour in there. A pic of the build itself so we could see what all is in there would be a great way to decide on what colours might match well.
> 
> -Z


Here is my layout in terms of parts:
Mobo: Asus X99 Deluxe/U3.1


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






GPU's: ASUS GTX780TI-DC2OC-3GD5


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






PSU: Corsair AX1200 (will be getting cablemods cables in the color combinations
CPU: 5820K or 5930K (not sure yet, helps teh Vagur decide)

Now for watercooling:
Mobo blocks: Bitspower AIX99D Nickel Plated Full-Covered-Block (Clear)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






GPU blocks: EK-FC780 GTX Ti DCII - Nickel


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I might do ram blocks, but i don't really know how to do this with DDR4 stuff. I will also be using acrylic hard tubing, looks far better.

Here is the glorious case by the way!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Thermaltake core P5 by the way

Thoughts, bug me if i forgot things


----------



## Domler

Doin a lil mixn.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Black, White, and *Green*
> 
> The thought makes me tingle. (in a good, sexual way)
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> Thats my thought
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Picture of the build itself would be great. Assuming there's no other colours in the build, from mobo heatsinks, graphics cards, etc. black and white will go with literally any and all colours so you could put any colour in there. A pic of the build itself so we could see what all is in there would be a great way to decide on what colours might match well.
> 
> -Z
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Here is my layout in terms of parts:
> Mobo: Asus X99 Deluxe/U3.1
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPU's: ASUS GTX780TI-DC2OC-3GD5
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PSU: Corsair AX1200 (will be getting cablemods cables in the color combinations
> CPU: 5820K or 5930K (not sure yet, helps teh Vagur decide)
> 
> Now for watercooling:
> Mobo blocks: Bitspower AIX99D Nickel Plated Full-Covered-Block (Clear)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPU blocks: EK-FC780 GTX Ti DCII - Nickel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might do ram blocks, but i don't really know how to do this with DDR4 stuff. I will also be using acrylic hard tubing, looks far better.
> 
> Here is the glorious case by the way!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thermaltake core P5 by the way
> 
> Thoughts, bug me if i forgot things
Click to expand...

Yeah, you're in the clear man. Black and white won't reciprocate anything on the colour wheel, so you don't need to worry about matching it with anything. I'd say purple, but that's just my opinion. Whatever floats your boat man, you're in the clear with that setup.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Doin a lil mixn.


You need to change your profile pick to this now:



Looks brilliant

-Z


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Yeah, you're in the clear man. Black and white won't reciprocate anything on the colour wheel, so you don't need to worry about matching it with anything. I'd say purple, but that's just my opinion. Whatever floats your boat man, you're in the clear with that setup.
> 
> -Z
> You need to change your profile pick to this now:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks brilliant
> 
> -Z


Im choosing between purple and green currently, I love purple and green personally, but I think purple will look better to me. A nice dark theme would be cool. Is the purple pastel from Mayhems the raspberry purple? Thats the only one I'm finding on performance pc's, and the picture doesn't matchup at all. With the pastel colors, do you get the little bottle for the high concentrate? or do you use white then add it, or even distilled water? This will be my first wc build and have been looking into it for quite some time, the coolant and pump/res are the only things I really don't know. I'm most likely going to use a EK XE 480 rad with 8 EK vardar fans, choosing between 1450 or 1800 rpm fans.

side question, what ram can be water cooled for X99. I'm debating it.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Yeah, you're in the clear man. Black and white won't reciprocate anything on the colour wheel, so you don't need to worry about matching it with anything. I'd say purple, but that's just my opinion. Whatever floats your boat man, you're in the clear with that setup.
> 
> -Z
> You need to change your profile pick to this now:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks brilliant
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> Im choosing between purple and green currently, I love purple and green personally, but I think purple will look better to me. A nice dark theme would be cool. Is the purple pastel from Mayhems the raspberry purple? Thats the only one I'm finding on performance pc's, and the picture doesn't matchup at all. With the pastel colors, do you get the little bottle for the high concentrate? or do you use white then add it, or even distilled water? This will be my first wc build and have been looking into it for quite some time, the coolant and pump/res are the only things I really don't know. I'm most likely going to use a EK XE 480 rad with 8 EK vardar fans, choosing between 1450 or 1800 rpm fans.
> 
> side question, what ram can be water cooled for X99. I'm debating it.
Click to expand...

For the concentrate you mix pastel with water according to the instructions on the bottle. For Premix you just fill. Be sure to shake it like a madman before filling. If you want a specific colour you can always start with pastel ice white, and dye it to whatever colour you want. As to pump, go with a D5 and you're set.

-Z


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> For the concentrate you mix pastel with water according to the instructions on the bottle. For Premix you just fill. Be sure to shake it like a madman before filling. If you want a specific colour you can always start with pastel ice white, and dye it to whatever colour you want. As to pump, go with a D5 and you're set.
> 
> -Z


Perfect! I am thinking of grabbing a black dye for pastel to add to the purple to darken it if it's lighter than Im hoping it is. To pick your brain on the pump stuff, how do people get those clear tops and then slap their res right on top of it?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> I have a few questions.
> 
> I want to Mayhems pastel coolant but am totally unsure what color. I will have black and white already in the build, I'm thinking either white, black, green mint green and orange.
> 
> Forgot about purple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on these combinations?
> 
> 
> 
> Black, White, and *Green*
> 
> The thought makes me tingle. (in a good, sexual way)
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

Me Black, White and Blue.


----------



## Fischje

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fischje*
> 
> can i use pastel with aquacomputer filters?
> 
> any kind?


Anybody?


----------



## Mayhem

Weve had a few ppl contact us about the glass and some fitting sliding off or not fitting though the inner diameter hole of the fitting. The issue actually is not the glass at fault but the fittings not being quality controled (qc) correctly..

Every single peace of Mayhems glass is checked 2 times with a micrometer to make sure it is with in +/- 0.02mm of stated size there is no compromise. Every single peace of glass is checked for marks and scratches. Then every single peace is hand wrapped in tissue paper and labeled with with a sticker.

If your fitting don't fit our stated size of 12,13 or 16mm then the manufacturer of the fittings is at fault and you either need to send them back for a replacement or get a refund. We have tested over 20 different fittings and found 2 were not up to the mark.

@Fischje Yes you can, how ever we never recommend the use of filters in a water cooling system, its a bad idea.


----------



## Rahldrac

Have you made any "best practice" guides for mayhem Aurora 2?
Like does the system need to be turned on all the time?
How fast does you pump have to spin? Special thought on radiators and reservoirs?


----------



## Mayhem

If you head over to our site then goto guides then aurora guide there is a old but good peace there -> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/guides/mayhems-aurora-guide


----------



## Mayhem

Friday


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Friday


Yes!!!


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Friday
> 
> 
> 
> Yes!!!
Click to expand...


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Friday


Is that PE?


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Friday


nice







i have contacted your sales via email for 3x bottles of that good stuff








Edit: my loop is ready to replace regular pastel :


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems is progressing more and for the last few years we have been saving all our penny's and we are now ready to purchase a new peace of equipment to aid us in our progression to cheaper, better and far more superior coolants. The new system will bring all the expensive testing in house and instead of waiting a few weeks for answers we can have them with in moments. This will speed up our progression and also give us far superior results than we have had in the past. Not one single company in the industry we frequent have this technology and it will show. This is when making your own products come into play.









Feeling pretty dammed proud of what we have achieved so far and looking forward to doing more..


----------



## Domler

@MayhemCongratulations Mick!!! Keep up the good work!!!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems is progressing more and for the last few years we have been saving all our penny's and we are now ready to purchase a new peace of equipment to aid us in our progression to cheaper, better and far more superior coolants. The new system will bring all the expensive testing in house and instead of waiting a few weeks for answers we can have them with in moments. This will speed up our progression and also give us far superior results than we have had in the past. Not one single company in the industry we frequent have this technology and it will show. This is when making your own products come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feeling pretty dammed proud of what we have achieved so far and looking forward to doing more..


What you and the Mayhem's Team have accomplished is mightily impressive. Not only what has been accomplished but also the way it was accomplished. We love the way you share with us @OCN. Congrats and keep it up!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems is progressing more and for the last few years we have been saving all our penny's and we are now ready to purchase a new peace of equipment to aid us in our progression to cheaper, better and far more superior coolants. The new system will bring all the expensive testing in house and instead of waiting a few weeks for answers we can have them with in moments. This will speed up our progression and also give us far superior results than we have had in the past. Not one single company in the industry we frequent have this technology and it will show. This is when making your own products come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feeling pretty dammed proud of what we have achieved so far and looking forward to doing more..


Congrats!


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems is progressing more and for the last few years we have been saving all our penny's and we are now ready to purchase a new peace of equipment to aid us in our progression to cheaper, better and far more superior coolants. The new system will bring all the expensive testing in house and instead of waiting a few weeks for answers we can have them with in moments. This will speed up our progression and also give us far superior results than we have had in the past. Not one single company in the industry we frequent have this technology and it will show. This is when making your own products come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feeling pretty dammed proud of what we have achieved so far and looking forward to doing more..


Excellent work!!! Keep it up guys and thank you for everything you guys do.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What you and the Mayhem's Team have accomplished is mightily impressive. Not only what has been accomplished but also the way it was accomplished. We love the way you share with us @OCN. Congrats and keep it up!


+1 - well done mick and all at Mayhems. Go Mayhems Lol.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Best bet is to start with clear base. (X1 or XT-1) and use dyes. For that colour, I'd start with red dye until you get roughly the intensity you want, then add blue dye: not ocean blue but normal blue, ocean blue will probably darken it up too much.
> 
> You might also be able to roughly match the texture of the fluid in the image if you use Mayhems Pastel with Aurora Booster.
> 
> It would look roughly like this, except with the shade of red you want to be using.
> 
> 
> 
> -Z


I used this exact combo for my build. Dark blue dye blue pastel and the aurora booster. And because of the pastel light blocker I can't see the aurora unless I really really stare hard at the res


----------



## Mayhem

Well thats it, everything is moving along quickly. We are expecting delivery of a new system that can scan the size of particles down to 0.03nm up to 8 micron, It can tell use the molecular weight of each particle (from average of samples), It can also work out the zeta potential of given samples, also it does auto titration from 1ph up to 14ph at 0.1 Ph intervals so we can test all coolants at varying PH levels and also it can auto temperature the samples so we can research temperate issues and Ph levels at the same time.

To put this into more user friendly terms were heading down the rabbit hole of research into coolants and how they are affected by diffrent things. Weve done this in the past using external agencies at a cost to us of £1,000 a day and normally with a single sample we can wait upto 2 weeks for answers. By bringing this all in house we can do the work ourselves and do it quickly (with in 20 min) and have answers quickly. This means we should be able to develop my own ideas faster as well and give us quicker access to results, it also means i can test users issues in house and come back with more accurate answers using technologies that very people have access to.

personally im looking forwards to all of this and the 290 page manual is pretty daunting hahaha. All good stuff.


----------



## iBruce

What hard fittings are recommended to use with the Mayhems 16mm glass tubing?

Bitspower 16mm? Monsoon 5/8in?

Just discovered the tubing yesterday at the PPCS website, found a precision glass blower in my area that can make the sweet bends and turns for my build.

Thanks for offering this amazing product.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> What hard fittings are recommended to use with the Mayhems 16mm glass tubing?
> 
> Bitspower 16mm? Monsoon 5/8in?
> 
> Just discovered the tubing yesterday at the PPCS website, found a precision glass blower in my area that can make the sweet bends and turns for my build.
> 
> Thanks for offering this amazing product.


Be sure to ask that company if they can also reharden the glass tubing. You could bend it yourself if you have a map/pro torch, but the problem is you need to reharden it after that.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Fittings wise were using Alphacool's, Ek's, Bits power with no issues atm. W eve had some reports of some bad fittings from some companies but that can be discussed from the buyers not us. (makes me wonder if we should make some fittings tbh).


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Fittings wise were using Alphacool's, Ek's, Bits power with no issues atm. W eve had some reports of some bad fittings from some companies but that can be discussed from the buyers not us. (makes me wonder if we should make some fittings tbh).


Mayhem's fittings is a great idea, I'll buy some as soon as you send the first batch to PPCS.









Right now I have Monsoon Hardline Economy 5/8 outer diameter two nickel and two white.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-hardline-economy-compression-fittings-1-2-x-5-8-chrome.html

Should I pick up some Bitspower or EK 16mm OD hard fittings instead for the 16mm Mayhems glass tubing?

Ok, sorry for all the questions. If I go with Bitspower, I'm guessing for the 16mm Mayhem glass tubing, I should choose the Bitspower compression type hard fitting (first pic) and not the push on type (second pic) in order to sleep better at night?

Or have you had success with both?

Thank you Mayhem Sir.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/hj4Jqqxij

https://imageshack.com/i/p9QzBH3Vj

https://imageshack.com/i/p1wb6jwIj

16mm enhance fittings with 16mm glass tubing, i'm switching to 12mm though since there is a better selection.


----------



## Mayhem

weve had no issues with BP as of yet with both 12mm and 16mm. 90 degree bends landed Friday but we need to box them first.


----------



## khemist

I will probably have a few of them off you.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/hj4Jqqxij
> 
> 16mm enhance fittings with 16mm glass tubing, i'm switching to 12mm though since there is a better selection.


Thanks rep +

The white ones are $12 each, ouch.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g1-4-deluxe-white-enhance-multi-link-for-od-16mm.html


----------



## Domler

@Mayhem
Prebent 90's!!!!? I'll take 5. Any idea when they'll hit ppcs?


----------



## fast_fate

Pre-Chamfered edges are great and go into EK fittings nice and snug








Will pressure test later


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Pre-Chamfered edges are great and go into EK fittings nice and snug
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will pressure test later


Thats great for ONE end of each tube, but how do you recreate that chamfered edge? Wet or dry sand paper? Is there a how to somewhere on how to prepare the cut glass edge for sealing?

Measured my two continuous lengths at 420mm and 480mm so two 500mm x 16mm tubes will be all I need but I still need to prep the cut ends.

Also not certain how I get a glass blower person to reharden the glass bends, but I won't be using the Mayhems glass tubes until November, so plenty of time to learn what I need to know.


----------



## fast_fate

Tempering will probably require a kiln, so not in the kit of the average PC builder.

Wet and dry sandpaper should achieve good chamfers.
I'm working on something this weekend, including cuts, sanding and testing holding pressures with a few suitable fittings that I have.


----------



## iBruce

Every precision glass blower will have their own kiln, found two in my area, they can most likely form loopdeeloops with the Mayhems glass tubing, so we might get very creative with the tubing runs.


----------



## SteezyTN

I love Mayhems coolants. While I've only used Pastel Ice white, my experiences are out of this world. I was always scared to used colored coolants because of staining and what not, but I haven't had any issues whatsoever.


----------



## Mayhem

@SteezyTN the only time people have issues is when they don't clean there rads correctly, if they used what we created "the blitz system" there would never be an issue, however you cannot please all the people all the time. If you want to avoid staining on tubing all together go with our glass tubing







.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @SteezyTN the only time people have issues is when they don't clean there rads correctly, if they used what we crated the blitz system there would never be an issue, how ever you cannot please all the people all the time. If you want to avoid staining on tubing all together go with our glass tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Think I'll pick up the pro cleaning kit for the XE and CE rads, am going with the Mayhems glass tubing in the top compartment but soft tubing below, and my first three loops everytime no matter how clean my rads I get the dark gray gunk building up on the EK Supremacy EVO block, you can see it right through the plexi on the microchanels. Can see it right now on my third loop and I'm using EK clear solution only two months old.

/0/]http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-system.html#!prettyPhoto[gallery]/0/

Like to make this 4th water loop the very best, thinking of also moving from EK clear to a Mayhems clear coolant.









My office is 10mins drive from PPCS so I'll study up on what they offer from you guys.

The EK Special Edition X4 250 glass reservoir arrives in 24hours, wanna keep that baby clean and clear, so I want to make up a very special coolant from Mayhems components.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/EK X4_zpsvnjiruyx.png.html


----------



## Domler

@Mayhem
Hey Mick
Any progress on the glass res? Just wondering how it's going. If you can make that happen, my dreams will be fullfilled. ?


----------



## Mayhem

i cannot say anything atm.......... mhahahahahahaha, ive had to re do the glass cpu block top as seemingly being to accurate can be an issue haha.


----------



## IDTenT




----------



## fleetfeather

Regarding the 'use by' dates on Mayhems coolant products:

I have a bottle of X1 concentrate which has never been opened. Does the '2 year shelf life' mentioned on the bottle refer the the time period which can elapse *after* initially opening the product, or the time period which can elapse *regardless* of whether the bottle has been opened yet?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Would Mayhems tubing turn foggy after sitting in the box it was shipped in for a few months? The stuff I got from PPCs looks like this:


----------



## Valgaur

Question for you @Mayhem

I have seen a few posts on this glass tubing. How exactly does one bend this? I don't like using a lot of fittings and would prefer to have the glass as it looks amazing. How does one bend it though, I wonder?


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Question for you @Mayhem
> 
> I have seen a few posts on this glass tubing. How exactly does one bend this? I don't like using a lot of fittings and would prefer to have the glass as it looks amazing. How does one bend it though, I wonder?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its hand bent at 1500c (bare gas flame) and then annealed in a oven @ 1700c so its hardened again.


Better break out the torch!


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Would Mayhems tubing turn foggy after sitting in the box it was shipped in for a few months? The stuff I got from PPCs looks like this:


is that our tubing? Btw we don't box our tubing it comes on rolls


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Regarding the 'use by' dates on Mayhems coolant products:
> 
> I have a bottle of X1 concentrate which has never been opened. Does the '2 year shelf life' mentioned on the bottle refer the the time period which can elapse *after* initially opening the product, or the time period which can elapse *regardless* of whether the bottle has been opened yet?


If it's been opened, but stored in a cool dark place it should be safe to store it for a couple years.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Question for you @Mayhem
> 
> I have seen a few posts on this glass tubing. How exactly does one bend this? I don't like using a lot of fittings and would prefer to have the glass as it looks amazing. How does one bend it though, I wonder?


The short answer is *you* don't.

The long answer is you heat it with a Map/Pro torch and bend it, then put it in an oven at 1700c and anneal it to re-harden it. Now note how I emphasized "you" in "you don't". Since most of us don't have access to an annealing oven your best bet is to have a glass blowing shop bend it/anneal it for you. Mayhems also sells 90 degree prebent sections of tubing.

-Z


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> is that our tubing? Btw we don't box our tubing it comes on rolls


Yes. I got it from PPCs. When I say box, I mean the box they shipped it in.


----------



## Mayhem

email me direct ill sort it.


----------



## HITTI

Hi mayhem. I am kinda worried atm now that I bought X1 from performance pcs.

I was reading the label on the http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-clear-concentrate-250ml.html bottle that I have just got delivered.

On the bottle states 19.12.2014.

What is the shelf life of the x1 in the original bottle?


----------



## Mayhem

Its fine that's the date it was made. its not for your use but our records for batches made. If you that worried never by fluid for your car its normal made 8 years ago







.


----------



## Dave6531

Definitely have to mix my colors i just got in luckily going for a slightly lighter color so will be diluting a tiny bit. Aiming more for the lighter shade.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Definitely have to mix my colors i just got in luckily going for a slightly lighter color so will be diluting a tiny bit. Aiming more for the lighter shade.


If you dilute it be sure to dilute it with more X1. If you try to dilute the colour with just water you'll also dilute the corrosion inhibitors, biocides, and surfactants.

-Z


----------



## Cuchullain

How different is the Ocean blue dye from dark blue? I have an old bottle of dark blue I'm planning on using, but wanted to pick up another just in case, but it seems that it is not made anymore? Or at least not on PPC.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> If you dilute it be sure to dilute it with more X1. If you try to dilute the colour with just water you'll also dilute the corrosion inhibitors, biocides, and surfactants.
> 
> -Z


True, thanks. Planning on color similar to this red hydraulic fluid.


----------



## RpeeKooz

hey guys
had my ram block fitting leak a tiny bit and spill onto motherboard which caught on fire anyways bought a new motherboard evga ftw..and im thinking of doing a silver and black theme..ive been running red pastel and want to get away from the red...
so what is my best option for a chrome looking liquid??
my loop is quite complex i think ..it consists of 3 rads 1 gpu cpu and a ram block and all acrylic tube..
how do i get it as silver/chrome looking as i can ??
cheers


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cuchullain*
> 
> How different is the Ocean blue dye from dark blue? I have an old bottle of dark blue I'm planning on using, but wanted to pick up another just in case, but it seems that it is not made anymore? Or at least not on PPC.


I bought ocean.blue year ago for my build, never used it. It should be called green








If you want true blue, go for non stain blue.


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> hey guys
> had my ram block fitting leak a tiny bit and spill onto motherboard which caught on fire anyways bought a new motherboard evga ftw..and im thinking of doing a silver and black theme..ive been running red pastel and want to get away from the red...
> so what is my best option for a chrome looking liquid??
> my loop is quite complex i think ..it consists of 3 rads 1 gpu cpu and a ram block and all acrylic tube..
> how do i get it as silver/chrome looking as i can ??
> cheers


Have you looked into doing actual chrome plated tubing perhaps?


----------



## Cuchullain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I bought ocean.blue year ago for my build, never used it. It should be called green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want true blue, go for non stain blue.


Thanks for the advice. I'm actually planning on using the dark blue to darken the emerald green a bit. I tested a small amount and it looks really good, I was just hope I have enough dark blue for my system. I was using a ration of 5:1 green to dark blue.


----------



## devilhead

Got some milk, time to change pastel to pastel extreme







hard to make foto in led's ligt


----------



## 414347

It looks







but If you open to suggestions I have one.
I don't know if you going for looks only , performance or both, how are your temps? I've know this you have water going directly from GPU to CPU and VRMs and no cooling water in between.

I have single loop as well and going from GPU straight up to rad through the roof than from rad comeback to VRM and CPU, it will make big difference in your CPU temps, unless they are OK now and you happy, just an observation


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> 
> 
> It looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but If you open to suggestions I have one.
> I don't know if you going for looks only , performance or both, how are your temps? I've know this you have water going directly from GPU to CPU and VRMs and no cooling water in between.
> 
> I have single loop as well and going from GPU straight up to rad through the roof than from rad comeback to VRM and CPU, it will make big difference in your CPU temps, unless they are OK now and you happy, just an observation


i't doesn't make any big difference, maximum 1C







You can see in my signature i have 2x560x60mm + 2x360x60mm, all of them push pull







and 2x D5, flow meter show's now 334 L/h, so liquid moves not so slow :


----------



## 414347

No one would know temps better than you so if it works








btw. nice flow rate, are you pumps running at Max speed, what are your temps on idle and load, just curies


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> No one would know temps better than you so if it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw. nice flow rate, are you pumps running at Max speed, what are your temps on idle and load, just curies


D5's is set in aquasuite at 10v, temps cpu idle 25-30C gpu 25C. games like gta5/starwars/battlefield Cpu ~40C, gpu ~31C


----------



## 414347

Very respectable temps


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> Have you looked into doing actual chrome plated tubing perhaps?


Yeh I have thought of it.but I will still see what is in the res..plus it would be a lot cheaper to buy coolant then all new fittings and chrome tube..would a silver aurora be able to mixed with something to make it more silver if that makes sense
Cheers


----------



## devilhead

So i can confirm, that pastel extreme is a bit whiter than regular pastel, smells same and was not easy to open that bottle


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> So i can confirm, that pastel extreme is a bit whiter than regular pastel, smells same and was not easy to open that bottle


Do want! Don't think anyone answered my question earlier.

Does the extreme have more resilience in regards to dirty rads or is it same as regular pastel? Dirty AlphaCool will turn white blue/green?


----------



## ali13245

Does anyone when Pastel Extreme will be available to order from PPCs?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> So i can confirm, that pastel extreme is a bit whiter than regular pastel, smells same and was not easy to open that bottle


But how does it taste?

-Z


----------



## Flux

Probably the wrong thread but I'll ask anyways. Do you guys have any idea where I can get Mayhems coolants in NZ ? The one place I found that has mayhems coolants listed for sale is not listed as a authorized distributor so I'm a bit weary buying from them.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flux*
> 
> Probably the wrong thread but I'll ask anyways. Do you guys have any idea where I can get Mayhems coolants in NZ ? The one place I found that has mayhems coolants listed for sale is not listed as a authorized distributor so I'm a bit weary buying from them.


Here or Here

Not quite New Zealand but shipping from 'Stralia to Kiwi-land is going to be way easier than shipping from Europe or the U.S.

-Z


----------



## Flux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Here or Here
> 
> Not quite New Zealand but shipping from 'Stralia to Kiwi-land is going to be way easier than shipping from Europe or the U.S.
> 
> -Z


Sadly the kool room doesn't have Pastel Pink and Ple doesnt do international shipping







Thanks for the effort though.


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> But how does it taste?
> 
> -Z


that can say just my dog, because he licked some spills from the floor


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Pastel™ Extreme is a diffrent make up to Pastel ™ Coolants we make, They should never be mixed and it should never be mixed with any other coolant except dyes.


----------



## ali13245

I noticed on the website that it says you can make up to 3.5 liters of coolant with one bottle? Whats the the difference between making 2 liters and 3.5 liters, does it affect the coolant in any negative way if you mix over 2 liters?


----------



## devilhead

here is dog pastel tester at 3:18, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3yizWEDviQ , video made with phone and way to long








edit: and what's freezing point for pastel extreme Mick?


----------



## Alerean

Urghhh, that feeling when you've just bought a product and then a new one comes out. Wouldn't mind seeing some build pics with PE. Tripling (?) the amount of fluid the concentrate makes is a pretty insane advancement...


----------



## RpeeKooz

how long does aurora blue last in a loop?
it consists on 2x480 rads 1x240 rad 1 cpu 1 gpu 1 ram block 1 ac flow meter acrylic tube
i know its only for show systems and not for everyday but will it last a year ???and even if the effect is gone is there something i can add..and can i still use the liquid without the effect in there???
i want it to last a year.i change it every year
cheers


----------



## ckool

@Mayhem
Has any Australian retailers stock those glass tubes?


----------



## HITTI

Mayhem, may I make a suggesion? This is my fault as I am not good at math, I wasted my x1 because x1 has directions for mixing the entire 250ml with 1.8Ltr dw. I mixed the entire bottle as described. Could mayhems create a pdf download for mixing x1 250ml by quarters,halves and three quarters? I have little bit less than half gal. mixed that is waste.


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> how long does aurora blue last in a loop?
> it consists on 2x480 rads 1x240 rad 1 cpu 1 gpu 1 ram block 1 ac flow meter acrylic tube
> i know its only for show systems and not for everyday but will it last a year ???and even if the effect is gone is there something i can add..and can i still use the liquid without the effect in there???
> i want it to last a year.i change it every year
> cheers


Completely dropped out and disappeared in 2 days for me. If I'm not mistaken (someone correct me if I am wrong) but the base solution for aurora is the same or similar to X1. Should not be a problem to just keep using the fluid, you just won't have the effect anymore.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Mayhem, may I make a suggesion? This is my fault as I am not good at math, I wasted my x1 because x1 has directions for mixing the entire 250ml with 1.8Ltr dw. I mixed the entire bottle as described. Could mayhems create a pdf download for mixing x1 250ml by quarters,halves and three quarters? I have little bit less than half gal. mixed that is waste.


It's not wasted. You can store the remaining mixed coolant in a cool dark place like closet. You still can use it later. Do you know you can stored it up to 3 years?


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Completely dropped out and disappeared in 2 days for me. If I'm not mistaken (someone correct me if I am wrong) but the base solution for aurora is the same or similar to X1. Should not be a problem to just keep using the fluid, you just won't have the effect anymore.


just been looking at your build log and is the blue and purple liquids aurora>????


----------



## HITTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> It's not wasted. You can store the remaining mixed coolant in a cool dark place like closet. You still can use it later. Do you know you can stored it up to 3 years?


Nope I had no idea x1 mixed with distilled water in a jugg that might contain plasticizers maybe stored for 3 years. From what i thought, x1 mixed with dw is only good for a year. Same as it being in your watercooling system, has a year shelf life.


----------



## HITTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Nope I had no idea x1 mixed with distilled water in a jugg that might contain plasticizers maybe stored for 3 years. From what i thought, x1 mixed with dw is only good for a year. Same as it being in your watercooling system, has a year shelf life.


I think it can only be stored for one year if mixed.
Quote:


> Mayhems X1 Coolants
> Mayhems X1 Coolants are made from vegetable extract and are the safest and least toxic coolant on the market today. It comes in many colours to suit the needs of everyone. There is no messing around, you just pour the coolant into your systems and that is it. Mayhems X1 includes all the biocides and inhibitors you will need to protect your water cooling system and doesn't require the user to add anything extra. If you would like to make your own colour Mayhems X1 is fully compatible with all Mayhems Dyes. We do recommend you change your coolant out regularly as over time the coolant will become less effective. Our recommend change out period is *every 9 to 12 months*.


http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/guides/mayhems-coolant-guide


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> It's not wasted. You can store the remaining mixed coolant in a cool dark place like closet. You still can use it later. Do you know you can stored it up to 3 years?
> 
> 
> 
> Nope I had no idea x1 mixed with distilled water in a jugg that might contain plasticizers maybe stored for 3 years. From what i thought, x1 mixed with dw is only good for a year. Same as it being in your watercooling system, has a year shelf life.
Click to expand...

Unless your jug contain DEHP and also exposed to heat, there will be no plasticizer problem. It's a bit paranoid to worry about plasticizer in the jug you used to mixed the coolant. Transfer the remaining mixed coolant to a bottle, DEHP free if you must & store it in cool dark place.

X1 shelf life is actually 3 years for both concentrate & (pre-)mixed.
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/products/normal-coolants/mayhems-x1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Nope I had no idea x1 mixed with distilled water in a jugg that might contain plasticizers maybe stored for 3 years. From what i thought, x1 mixed with dw is only good for a year. Same as it being in your watercooling system, has a year shelf life.
> 
> 
> 
> I think it can only be stored for one year if mixed.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems X1 Coolants
> Mayhems X1 Coolants are made from vegetable extract and are the safest and least toxic coolant on the market today. It comes in many colours to suit the needs of everyone. There is no messing around, you just pour the coolant into your systems and that is it. Mayhems X1 includes all the biocides and inhibitors you will need to protect your water cooling system and doesn't require the user to add anything extra. If you would like to make your own colour Mayhems X1 is fully compatible with all Mayhems Dyes. We do recommend you change your coolant out regularly as over time the coolant will become less effective. Our recommend change out period is *every 9 to 12 months*.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/guides/mayhems-coolant-guide
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure that for coolant in the loop.


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> just been looking at your build log and is the blue and purple liquids aurora>????


The Navy Blue is 100ml X1 with dyes to get the color with silver aurora premix. I know its not a "Aurora Friendly" loop but it did what was supposed to. I can't imagine anyone running aurora in their loop for any long period of time without it losing the effect. It's just that in order to keep aurora suspended in your loop indefinitely it would probably require the viscosity to be too high to remain effective for watercooling.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> how long does aurora blue last in a loop?
> it consists on 2x480 rads 1x240 rad 1 cpu 1 gpu 1 ram block 1 ac flow meter acrylic tube
> i know its only for show systems and not for everyday but will it last a year ???and even if the effect is gone is there something i can add..and can i still use the liquid without the effect in there???
> i want it to last a year.i change it every year
> cheers
> 
> 
> 
> Completely dropped out and disappeared in 2 days for me. If I'm not mistaken (someone correct me if I am wrong) but *the base solution for aurora is the same or similar to X1*. Should not be a problem to just keep using the fluid, you just won't have the effect anymore.
Click to expand...

Yes and no. The solution for *Aurora* is X1, note the emphasis. The solution for Aurora 2 is one of it's own use, as in separate from X1. Aurora (classic) isn't made anymore, so unless you had an old bottle stored or got some from a reseller that had it in stock it likely isn't Aurora Classic.

-Z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Mayhem, may I make a suggesion? This is my fault as I am not good at math, I wasted my x1 because x1 has directions for mixing the entire 250ml with 1.8Ltr dw. I mixed the entire bottle as described. Could mayhems create a pdf download for mixing x1 250ml by quarters,halves and three quarters? I have little bit less than half gal. mixed that is waste.


Unless the plasticizers in the bottle are DEHP and/or pthalate based and the fluid is constantly heating/cooling you should be fine for a year of storage in a cool dark place.

As for mixing ratios:

100/(2000/250)==12.5

12.5% concentrate to 87.5% water.

-Z


----------



## BigBig5

I am planning a water cooling my computer in the future and want to use Mayhems. The color I want to achieve is MAINFrame Customs burgundy paracord. What colors would be best for mixing?


----------



## Wolftame

Does anyone know if the Mayhems produced pastels sold by EK is the same product as the pastels sold by Mayhems themselves?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolftame*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Mayhems produced pastels sold by EK is the same product as the pastels sold by Mayhems themselves?


EK pastel is just rebranded Mayhems Pastel with some slightly different colours

-Z


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBig5*
> 
> I am planning a water cooling my computer in the future and want to use Mayhems. The color I want to achieve is MAINFrame Customs burgundy paracord. What colors would be best for mixing?


Red, Purple and Green will get you the color you want.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBig5*
> 
> I am planning a water cooling my computer in the future and want to use Mayhems. The color I want to achieve is MAINFrame Customs burgundy paracord. What colors would be best for mixing?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BigBig5*
> 
> I am planning a water cooling my computer in the future and want to use Mayhems. The color I want to achieve is MAINFrame Customs burgundy paracord. What colors would be best for mixing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Red, Purple and Green will get you the color you want.
Click to expand...

I'd also suggest using pastel as a base for that colour. If you tried to get that with X1 or a transparent coolant you might end up with a red wine colour.

-Z


----------



## BigBig5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd also suggest using pastel as a base for that colour. If you tried to get that with X1 or a transparent coolant you might end up with a red wine colour.
> 
> -Z


A red wine color might look good because the color burgundy comes from a type of red wine.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Has anyone sleeved tubing before? Wonder if it would look good or crap. Probably crap if I haven't seen it before...


----------



## BigBig5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Has anyone sleeved tubing before? Wonder if it would look good or crap. Probably crap if I haven't seen it before...


This thread is for Mayhems water cooling dyes and coolants. But here s a build on MDPC that has done it.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBig5*
> 
> This thread is for Mayhems water cooling dyes and coolants. But here s a build on MDPC that has done it.


No, this is the fake one. The real one is here http://www.mayhems.net/viewforum.php?f=4


----------



## DarthBaggins

A few people have done sleeved tubing and it's turned out amazingly
Best example I have seen: http://www.overclock.net/t/1287144/100-complete-lowfats-big-lian-li-motm-jan-2015/1000_40#post_23281568


----------



## Alerean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> A few people have done sleeved tubing and it's turned out amazingly
> Best example I have seen: http://www.overclock.net/t/1287144/100-complete-lowfats-big-lian-li-motm-jan-2015/1000_40#post_23281568


Wow...that's miles better than the one linked on the last page. Being a neat freak that cable management makes me jealous.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well it did make MOtM lol but yeah lowfat did amazing work on that build


----------



## thedoo

I know that Mayhems Blitz Part 1 is only for Copper/Brass radiators, I am assuming that goes for the stop fittings also? I currently have some POM stop fittings right now, do I need to switch them out with some other ones?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> I know that Mayhems Blitz Part 1 is only for Copper/Brass radiators, I am assuming that goes for the stop fittings also? I currently have some POM stop fittings right now, do I need to switch them out with some other ones?


Plastics are fine with Part 1. (Well, they won't hurt it anyway. I wouldn't have any acrylic parts in with Part 1) You don't want to use it with nickle plated blocks, etc, because it will more than likely strip the metal plating. You could use nickle plated fittings on the rads if you wanted and Blitz part 1 would still work fine on the rad, your plugs just wouldn't be nickle plated anymore.

-Z


----------



## barsh90

Is the PrimoFlex Advanced LRT safe to use with red pastel mayhems?


----------



## Rahldrac

Couple of things:
The Aurora 2 concentrate, you only dilute in distilled water right? Since it already contains inhibitors and the likes.
How much Aurora 2 does 250ml concentrate make?
I think i read earlier this year that you no longer have to remove the jet plate in the EK EVO supremacy?

Also, tried to go to the "Aurora wiki", but it seems that it does not work anymore.

Cheers.


----------



## fast_fate

Get ready for some magic lighting effects when builds start popping up with the Glass Tubing.

My favorite pic of the day








No additional lighting - just the LEDs begind the glass tubes...
and zero image processing - I promise









This is why some folk will go the extra mile and use glass tubing.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Is that glass tubing with black coolant and a light towards the bottom?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Is that glass tubing with black coolant and a light towards the bottom?










exactly that.
You can see the short LED light bar behind fittings for the glass tubes.
Black Oil coolant, but was kinda very dark brown when I mixed


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Couple of things:
> The Aurora 2 concentrate, you only dilute in distilled water right? Since it already contains inhibitors and the likes.
> How much Aurora 2 does 250ml concentrate make?
> I think i read earlier this year that you no longer have to remove the jet plate in the EK EVO supremacy?
> 
> Also, tried to go to the "Aurora wiki", but it seems that it does not work anymore.
> 
> Cheers.


Just broke down my loop and found where all the aurora went. Inside the supremacy evo. It will get stuck in there even without the jetplate.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> exactly that.
> You can see the short LED light bar behind fittings for the glass tubes.
> Black Oil coolant, but was kinda very dark brown when I mixed


Ahh that's pretty cool. Reminds me of space:


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Just broke down my loop and found where all the aurora went. Inside the supremacy evo. It will get stuck in there even without the jetplate.


Awww, well, I am going to have one loop with just GPU, so maybe the aurora effect will stay there. (now the only question is if 480 is enough rad space for two GPU when the fans are reeeeeal slow, or if i should add 240 more).
You had Aurora 2 right?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

This is probably a question that has been answered a few times over, but as I am too lazy to look through over a thousand posts to find the answer I will just ask again.
I have Mayehms X1 clear coolant, mixed from concentrate in my system. The system was cleaned properly with the blitz kit part 2 before the gpu was added to the loop in mid march of this year.

When should I change the coolant?

I have some coolant left but not enough to re-fill the entire system so I am seeing how long I can stretch it out, because when it comes time to drain i would like to add a fill port to my dual bay res for easier filling. That said I would like to wait until i have money for the addition onto the loop that way i can bundle the coolant in with that order. thoughts?

EDIT: and yes I know I am being lazy, I work in IT and I don't always feel like coming home to work on computers some more so I am attempting to delay the maintenance as long as possible.


----------



## Evilmexicaninus

Has anyone else had problems with Mayhems tubing? This is less than 3 months of use and ordered directly from their store when it was released.
Ive been having nothing but problems with Mayhems products. First their Aurora 2 premix which only lasted literally 2 days before the pearl was gone, its supposed to last alot longer than the previous aurora. Second time I changed to mayhems uv red premix which wasnt even uv reactive no matter how many uv lights i stuck in my case. Last I tried there tubing and now its fogging. Ive wasted a bunch of $$$ on this stuff.


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> This is probably a question that has been answered a few times over, but as I am too lazy to look through over a thousand posts to find the answer I will just ask again.
> I have Mayehms X1 clear coolant, mixed from concentrate in my system. The system was cleaned properly with the blitz kit part 2 before the gpu was added to the loop in mid march of this year.
> 
> When should I change the coolant?
> 
> I have some coolant left but not enough to re-fill the entire system so I am seeing how long I can stretch it out, because when it comes time to drain i would like to add a fill port to my dual bay res for easier filling. That said I would like to wait until i have money for the addition onto the loop that way i can bundle the coolant in with that order. thoughts?
> 
> EDIT: and yes I know I am being lazy, I work in IT and I don't always feel like coming home to work on computers some more so I am attempting to delay the maintenance as long as possible.


According to their site it is a maximum of 1 year for the coolant, but recommended 9 months.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evilmexicaninus*
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had problems with Mayhems tubing? This is less than 3 months of use and ordered directly from their store when it was released.
> Ive been having nothing but problems with Mayhems products. First their Aurora 2 premix which only lasted literally 2 days before the pearl was gone, its supposed to last alot longer than the previous aurora. Second time I changed to mayhems uv red premix which wasnt even uv reactive no matter how many uv lights i stuck in my case. Last I tried there tubing and now its fogging. Ive wasted a bunch of $$$ on this stuff.


Every thought oh its my rad. The giveaway is in your picture.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Get ready for some magic lighting effects when builds start popping up with the Glass Tubing.
> 
> My favorite pic of the day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No additional lighting - just the LEDs begind the glass tubes...
> and zero image processing - I promise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is why some folk will go the extra mile and use glass tubing.


Thats the dogs bollocks. nice one

Cannot wait to get my one off not for sale real silver nanotube coolant in the glass







....


----------



## Evilmexicaninus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Every thought oh its my rad. The giveaway is in your picture.


Please explain?


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evilmexicaninus*
> 
> Please explain?


Alphacool rads are notoriously dirty.


----------



## Mayhem

Tell you what! what size rad is it you have and i will replace it with a decent Mayhems Havoc radiator and replace your tubing and fluid if you cover postage. This is a one off offer just to prove my point. Email me direct [email protected] and we will get this moving......

This is a no bs offer to prove what i say is true.

Mick


----------



## fast_fate

Can't ask for better product support than that









and how about one more pic while I'm in here


----------



## Domler

@Evilmexicaninus
I would take that offer is I was you. That's why I love you guys Mick. You stand proudly behind your products.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Can't ask for better product support than that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and how about one more pic while I'm in here


That just makes me smile.


----------



## Domler

@fast_fate
Show Mick your glass cutter. I'm still walking around in shame. You will see why. Here is mine.


----------



## Mayhem

I have several now tbh need to do a vid


----------



## fast_fate

I'll PM Mick a link to view the video I have done of it in action.
A couple more days and everybody can see it


----------



## Mayhem

watched it ... left speechless for a few seconds . this is some crazy mad inventor stuff going on there......


----------



## Domler

@Mayhem
Yeah, I thought you would be impressed. My manhood felt about as big as my cutter when I saw his.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Just broke down my loop and found where all the aurora went. Inside the supremacy evo. It will get stuck in there even without the jetplate.


that is also where mine ended up. Also in my vertical oriented radiator. I expected as much since I'm using a 6w ddc pump. Mick asked me to e mail him but i have not yet







lost my phone with all the videos and pics on it. I'll e mail him today anyways


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @Mayhem
> Yeah, I thought you would be impressed. My manhood felt about as big as my cutter when I saw his.


^Someone is beyond too hopeful







!


----------



## Mayhem

Evilmexicaninus has been sorted







.


----------



## Evilmexicaninus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Evilmexicaninus has been sorted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Wow, Id like to thank Mick and Mayhems for all their customer support. Not only were they able to help me replace my radiator, fluid and tubing but they also included shipping and prompt service.

I'm speechless right now, Mick is a real stand up guy! I will post my new results once I get my system back up and running.


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evilmexicaninus*
> 
> Wow, Id like to thank Mick and Mayhems for all their customer support. Not only were they able to help me replace my radiator, fluid and tubing but they also included shipping and prompt service.
> 
> I'm speechless right now, Mick is a real stand up guy! I will post my new results once I get my system back up and running.


It's why I love them. They rock.


----------



## ckool

Awesome customer support ??? definately going to incorporate as much mayhem products as i can in my next build,love supporting businesses like this.


----------



## DNMock

Anything new and cool popping up lately? Last time I checked in the new tubing and non-staining dye had just come out. (all of which is still very sexy).

Still waiting on Mayhems 3/4th ton 4x4 pick-ups to get out of testing and on the market btw...


----------



## Anateus

So nice that X1 didn't dry quickly and nothing was stained (non stain blue). Was able to flush everything with demineralised water and 99% IPA after few hours.
Guess it was a sign to buy that new pastel


----------



## ali13245

When will pastel extreme yellow and black be available for purchase?


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> When will pastel extreme yellow and black be available for purchase?


They just hit PPCS today... I think I'm gonna pass given the price is up in ice dragon territory.


----------



## ali13245

Yeah I know that, I was just wondering when the color versions of the coolant will be available?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> They just hit PPCS today... I think I'm gonna pass given the price is up in ice dragon territory.


Yeah I know that, I was just wondering when the color versions of the coolant will be available?


----------



## Anateus

Isnt that pastel extreme best bang per buck? Normal one is 12GBP, while extreme is 18GBP it makes 3,5l of coolant.


----------



## fisher6

Hey mayhemers, first post in this topic. Been using EK Clear coolant for a year with UV Blue tubing from Primochill. I'm thinking of changing to premixed UV Blue coolant from either EK or Mayhems. Anyone has experience with Mayhems?

I have the EK premixed but was just wondering if Mayhems would be any better. Thanks


----------



## Mayhem

Warning : Do not use pastel extreme on thermal take new aluminium zinc coated rads, Because there rads are zinc coated and PE is a super strong version with Zinc in it, they have having lots of issues and are not compatible.

We are investigating this problem and are working on a new fluid that will work with these rads.

Mick


----------



## cmpxchg8b

I wonder if some day someone will make a glass radiator. Well, I know about heat conductivity and all that stuff, but damn, would not that look super cool?


----------



## bigboy678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> I wonder if some day someone will make a glass radiator. Well, I know about heat conductivity and all that stuff, but damn, would not that look super cool?


if im not mistaken graphene is transparent and would be an amazing material fora rad. Now if only we could mass produce it very cheaply


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> I wonder if some day someone will make a glass radiator. Well, I know about heat conductivity and all that stuff, but damn, would not that look super cool?


Make your own with acrylic. Radiators aren't that complicated of a device, and acrylic is really easy to work with. Just get 12 acrylic tubes with a 1/16 wall. (5/8 ID 1/4OD), throw a small piece of silicon in there, heat them up, crush them flat(ish), and mount the 12 tubes to another flat piece of acrylic with a transparent epoxy, use a dremel to hallow out the contact areas so fluid can pass through, then close up the end chambers. There ya go, transparent rad.

Of course, this "radiator" would be purely aesthetic, as it's dissipation would be negligible.

-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigboy678*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> I wonder if some day someone will make a glass radiator. Well, I know about heat conductivity and all that stuff, but damn, would not that look super cool?
> 
> 
> 
> if im not mistaken graphene is transparent and would be an amazing material fora rad. Now if only we could mass produce it very cheaply
Click to expand...

The problem with graphene as a thermal transfer material is graphene is, by it's molecular design, a 2D material.



You can manufacture it to be infinitely on the X and Y axis, but it does not stack linearly on the Z plane. The hexagonal bonds will not stack on top of eachother, so graphenes amazing thermal conductivity is measured when the graphene is one atom thick. When the hexagonal patterns do not stack on top of eachother thermal conductivity decreases. Essentially, every time you add another one atom thick layer of graphene to the Z plane you decrease thermal conductivity. By the time you add enough layers to have a thickness plausible for a device such as a radiator the thermal conductivity will have dropped so far you essentially have a thermal insulator. What /could/ be done is create a thermally conductive resin, and use graphene nanopowder to augment the thermal conductivity, effectively creating a graphene composite. Of course at that rate the material is no longer transparent.

Graphene is weird. It is a miracle material, if you google it online you can find an infinite amount of articles describing how wonderful it is. Off the top of my head, they can use graphene to passively process hydrogen for use a fuel in a hydrogen fuel cell, they can use it for lenses and/or screens since it's hardness is on par with diamonds making it scratch resistant, using it for electronic parts as it's far more electrically conductive than copper, using graphene composites for thermally conductive materials etc. The unfortunate part is this miracle material is so finicky actually using it for these purposes requires leaping over hurdles so it can actually weird. It is, indeed, a weird material.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

It can be used in coolants as well how ever the coolant is made up of alcohol .... so no good for what we do. Also do not forget graphene is just pencil layered down to a single layer.. To much money being pumped into graphene all of projects are being squeezed because of it.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It can be used in coolants as well how ever the coolant is made up of alcohol .... so no good for what we do. Also do not forget graphene is just pencil layered down to a single layer.. To much money being pumped into graphene all of projects are being squeezed because of it.


Well, yes it's theoretically the same material, but graphite is FAR lower in quality than graphene.



Graphite typically has a high number of imperfections as opposed to properly processed graphene, as illustrated by the red bonds. This results in lower thermal conductivity. As a result simply grinding graphite into a fine nanopoweder typically doesn't result in the astronomically high thermal conductivity of properly manufactured graphene. If only it was that simple though. Graphene that could be bought for $30 per 100g as opposed to $500 for 100 grams. XD

There have been some who converted carbon dioxide from our atmosphere into graphene, though an economic feasible way to accomplish this still hasn't been put into use unfortunately.

Can you tell I'm I've been in love with this material for a while? XD

On a side note, why does the coolant need to be an alcohol? Does the graphene particles bind to eachother without a solvent or something?

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

From my understanding and from local testing they found that is can bond and flocculate were as with alcohol the ZP is much better and has less effect. There lots of research going on over at our end how ever a lot of it being kept quiet.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Hey mayhemers, first post in this topic. Been using EK Clear coolant for a year with UV Blue tubing from Primochill. I'm thinking of changing to premixed UV Blue coolant from either EK or Mayhems. Anyone has experience with Mayhems?
> 
> I have the EK premixed but was just wondering if Mayhems would be any better. Thanks


EK is just rebranded Mayhems with a few different colors.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> EK is just rebranded Mayhems with a few different colors.


The pastel is but the UV lineup doesn't seem to be: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-ekoolant-evo-uv-blue-concentrate-100ml

"EK-Ekoolant EVO is a brand new coolant, evolved from original EK-Ekoolant, designed specifically for computer liquid cooling systems with 3-year shelf life from date of bottling."


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> The pastel is but the UV lineup doesn't seem to be: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-ekoolant-evo-uv-blue-concentrate-100ml
> 
> "EK-Ekoolant EVO is a brand new coolant, evolved from original EK-Ekoolant, designed specifically for computer liquid cooling systems with 3-year shelf life from date of bottling."


Did not know that part. Thanks for clearing up my mistake on that.


----------



## Wolftame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> EK is just rebranded Mayhems with a few different colors.


EK pastels are rebranded Mayhems, afaik the premixes (not pastels, they only sell concentrates for those) are not. (could be wrong though I guess).


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> Did not know that part. Thanks for clearing up my mistake on that.


Idk, it could be Mayhems if Ek-Ekoolant was a Mayhems product but since they don't put the branding anywhere on the page (like they do on the pages for the pastels), then I'd think it's their own product.


----------



## akira749

@xxdarkreap3rxx is right









Our Pastel line is a partnership with Mayhems but the EVO line isn't


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> @xxdarkreap3rxx is right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Our Pastel line is a partnership with Mayhems but the EVO line isn't


And there is your answer. Thanks for clearing up the confusion Akira749.


----------



## fisher6

Thanks everyone for clearing things up. Think I will just stick with the EK one since this is what I have and they recommend it. Plus I won't have issues with the warranty but I really don't anticipate any issues at all.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Thanks everyone for clearing things up. Think I will just stick with the EK one since this is what I have and they recommend it. Plus I won't have issues with the warranty but I really don't anticipate any issues at all.


You wouldn't have warranty issues by using Mayhems products with our components


----------



## Evil-Mobo

What's the best every day red for ease of use and longevity?


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> You wouldn't have warranty issues by using Mayhems products with our components


Good to know. I plan to use them for my ITX build soon








I already switched over to EK UV Blue and love the results with Darkside LEDs.


----------



## Mayhem

Xt1 red ... simple , effective does the job intended.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Xt1 red ... simple , effective does the job intended.


How does the Red Pastel compare? I ended up ordering some of that.

Thanks


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> How does the Red Pastel compare? I ended up ordering some of that.
> 
> Thanks


Pastel red is super sensitive to ph levels. So if you do not clean the rads properly and your ph level is wrong, it will change a different shade of red.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Pastel red is super sensitive to ph levels. So if you do not clean the rads properly and your ph level is wrong, it will change a different shade of red.


Damn should have done more research to the pastel......... anything I can mix it with to make it better?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Pastel red is super sensitive to ph levels. So if you do not clean the rads properly and your ph level is wrong, it will change a different shade of red.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn should have done more research to the pastel......... *anything I can mix it with to make it better?*
Click to expand...

Nope. Just Blitz your radiators, and you should be fine.

-Z


----------



## Anateus

Well, technically he could add some dyes. Cant he?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Well, technically he could add some dyes. Cant he?


Adding red dye to crap will just make it redish crap. If your pH is screwed and your pastel discolours due to it sure you can add more dye but that's not going to unscrew your pastel. Blitz the rad clean, get the flux out of there, and prevent the contaminants from screwing your pastel.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel is PH sensitive and always has been from day one, From day dot of Liquid cooling and HVAC systems have always needed a good clean before you use them, some manufacturers of rads say XSPC ultra clean there rads using sonic cleaning systems and there rads are clean as any thing from the get go how ever some dont or are changing the way they clean their rads so the issue is not as prominent.

We created the Mayhems Blitz Cleaning system to combat this issue as a temporary measure to fix the PH imbalance in dirty radiators how ever it has seem to become the defacto standard in cleaning system due to how well it does the job. All mayhems bottles (square 1 Ltrs) now have a working PH on their bottles to point out this fact as well as warning reference cleaning your system.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

I heard there was a new longer lasting version of Aurora coolant out or in the works. One that can be used in a daily used rig and wont plug up blocks. Is this true? Any details?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Guessing if I were to switch from my X1 blood red to Pastel Red/Blood Red I'd need to fully blitz or would a standard flush of distilled and pt.2 work?

**edit** for some reason I feel I've asked this before too lol
Also the supposed color change with my X1 was really just due to lighting, checked and tested so my loop should still be between 6.8-7.0 ph


----------



## Fuzzywinks

Has anyone tried Aurora 2 in a Koolance RP-1000 bay pump/res? I'm aware Aurora isn't advised for bay style reservoirs and this one looks like it has a huge dead zone so I bet it wouldn't go so well, but I may give it a go and see what happens. Basically I'll be throwing together a simple home server/secondary rig using a windowed Fractal Design Define R5 and will be filling all the HDD cages so removing them for a tube style res probably won't be an option. I may just get the loop assembled and run it without components for a few weeks to see how well the coolant holds up. Maybe I'll just settle for pastel instead. Either way I'm excited to try Mayhems products


----------



## Anateus

Which blitz part is okay for full system clean? Is it okay to use it with nickle plated blocks?


----------



## mattxx88

after 1 year of pastel red, want to go back to a normal red look

what should i go for? i want a sparkling red like this:

http://imgur.com/50U5bjK

main problem of the "normal dyes" is that inside reservoir they have a nice and concentrate appearance, on the other hand fluid in tubes loose it intensity
i need a fluid that maintain it's color gradiance along whole loop


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Which blitz part is okay for full system clean? Is it okay to use it with nickle plated blocks?


Blitz basic


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattxx88*
> 
> after 1 year of pastel red, want to go back to a normal red look
> 
> what should i go for? i want a sparkling red like this:
> 
> http://imgur.com/50U5bjK
> 
> main problem of the "normal dyes" is that inside reservoir they have a nice and concentrate appearance, on the other hand fluid in tubes loose it intensity
> i need a fluid that maintain it's color gradiance along whole loop


Real off you parts list so ppl can help better, thank you

Mick


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuzzywinks*
> 
> Has anyone tried Aurora 2 in a Koolance RP-1000 bay pump/res? I'm aware Aurora isn't advised for bay style reservoirs and this one looks like it has a huge dead zone so I bet it wouldn't go so well, but I may give it a go and see what happens. Basically I'll be throwing together a simple home server/secondary rig using a windowed Fractal Design Define R5 and will be filling all the HDD cages so removing them for a tube style res probably won't be an option. I may just get the loop assembled and run it without components for a few weeks to see how well the coolant holds up. Maybe I'll just settle for pastel instead. Either way I'm excited to try Mayhems products


Do not use in that res, it will kill it :/


----------



## Mayhem

Parts list please thank you.

Mick


----------



## mattxx88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Real off you parts list so ppl can help better, thank you
> 
> Mick


ek reservoir ddc pump combo - ek supremacy plexy/nikel- gtx 780ti classi wb plexy/nikel - acrilic hard tubing


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattxx88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Real off you parts list so ppl can help better, thank you
> 
> Mick
> 
> 
> 
> ek reservoir ddc pump combo - ek supremacy plexy/nikel- gtx 780ti classi wb plexy/nikel - acrilic hard tubing
Click to expand...

Id personally Blitz Part 2 only flush through and then go pastel. Run pastel white first for a few weeks see if it turns a slight blue or not if everything is fine then add red dye.

Mick


----------



## mattxx88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Id personally Blitz Part 2 only flush through and then go pastel. Run pastel white first for a few weeks see if it turns a slight blue or not if everything is fine then add red dye.
> 
> Mick


well, as i said i want to change the pastel for a clear red dye
i need a red like the pics above

maybe X1 red? it keeps goo color grade even in tubes?


----------



## Mayhem

Yes you can use either dark red, Red or No staining red as dyes, or Xt1 red, XT-1 Red, UV red. You may need to add more red dye to them to increase there intensity.


----------



## ali13245

Hey mick will blitz part 1 nuke all the stubborn debris that wont come of my rads? I think im just going to purchase that and save myself some time as Im getting tired of flushing with distilled water and getting no where.


----------



## Mayhem

Your better off with using the blitz pro system for the rads how ever they must be dont separate out of the loop.









Rads + full system clean= Blitz Pro
Full system clean only = Blitz Basic


----------



## ali13245

Oh, I thought blitz pro was for full loop cleaning? I only want to clean out the radiators


----------



## Anateus

How sensitive is pastel extreme compared to normal pastel? I had a serious leak and lost all my previous clear x1 mixed with non stain blue, and I thought about getting pastel instead now..
Do I need to blitz it if its full EK loop that was working for a couple of days?


----------



## kizwan

This must be some kind of record - longest flushing radiator ever.


----------



## milkyjoe

Hi. In your post, a little old i know, you state that all Mayhems dyes stain but does this include the Mayhems Non stain dye Green & what is it like for breaking down after time? Thanks.


----------



## emsj86

Is there a reason dark blue dye is not sold anymore. Blue dye (non dark blue) just is not dark enough. And the dark blue can be used with so much to darken other colors


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is there a reason dark blue dye is not sold anymore. Blue dye (non dark blue) just is not dark enough. And the dark blue can be used with so much to darken other colors


Non stain blue can be quite dark if you add enough.

Can anyone tell me - will I have any problems with pastel white that are soon to be out of date? I heard that shelf life doesnt matter after you fill the loop with coolant (like, it will have loop life of 2 years).


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Id personally Blitz Part 2 only flush through and then go pastel. Run pastel white first for a few weeks see if it turns a slight blue or not if everything is fine then add red dye.
> 
> Mick


The answer I needed for me as well, But I wont worry if it starts to turn a tad red I guess since I want red/blood red either way. Also want to play with the new Pastel (now is it on the same use cycle of 3years or does it allow for longer use (not sure if mentioned or if anyone asked)


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @fast_fate
> Show Mick your glass cutter. I'm still walking around in shame. You will see why. Here is mine.


Just published the review with video of the glass cutter in action.
Because it is ER watermarked I can not link to it in here, so a photo will have to do for now


----------



## Mayhem

A thoroughly well written review http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/10/20/mayhems-borosilicate-glass-tube-review/ impressed would be the least of my words to use.







Thank you.

You need to come here though and snap a few thousand pieces of glass then you become an expert at it







... lol


----------



## Rahldrac

The new Hardware labs SR2 Multiport comes with plastic/POM plugs, I guess that these can not be used together with Blitz radiator cleaning?


----------



## Mayhem

they should be oky it doesn't melt plastic


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Damn. Dat glass tubing...









And the water-cooled cutting tool set up in order to cut it.


----------



## midnytwarrior

Just add water....



@mayhem

Just received the kits this morning from PPCs
I just want you to know that there are no problems receiving the Blitz kits here in Saudi Arabia


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnytwarrior*
> 
> Just add water....
> 
> 
> 
> @mayhem
> 
> Just received the kits this morning from PPCs
> I just want you to know that there are no problems receiving the Blitz kits here in Saudi Arabia


Just make sure you don't buy multiple kilos of silver nitrate off of Amazon.


----------



## midnytwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Just make sure you don't buy multiple kilos of silver nitrate off of Amazon.


LOLs









Just a question though. I'm not sure if it had been posted before but I'm just a bit confused.
Please see underlined items in red. Which one to follow?
TIA!


----------



## fast_fate

*The Test* has begun


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> *The Test* has begun


Of what


----------



## Anateus

What kind of monster is that?


----------



## Zen00

Just bought some of Mayhem blue dye (not the UV stuff, but might add some of it in the future), was wondering how it would look with some pastel white mixed in?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> Just bought some of Mayhem blue dye (not the UV stuff, but might add some of it in the future), was wondering how it would look with some pastel white mixed in?


Amazing. My friend @Ramzinho did the same exact thing (pastel white + nonstain blue): http://www.overclock.net/t/1553890/two-projects-beast-marshmallow-lots-of-time-to-be-consumed/320_20#post_24466291


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> *The Test* has begun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning:Spoiler!


THIS is awesome. came across it this afternoon and really cleared some things up for me


----------



## siox69

mayhems pasterl perfect pink isnt locally available here in the philippines so can anybody help me
how do i make a fuchsia pink out of X1 clear and mayhems dyes? thank you!


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> Just bought some of Mayhem blue dye (not the UV stuff, but might add some of it in the future), was wondering how it would look with some pastel white mixed in?


This was pastel white with blue dye mixed in. I wanted to match the ram heatsinks so I just added a few drops at a time until it was right. The more you add the darker it will get.


----------



## midnytwarrior

Anyone?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnytwarrior*
> 
> Just a question though. I'm not sure if it had been posted before but I'm just a bit confused.
> Please see underlined items in red. Which one to follow?
> TIA!


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnytwarrior*
> 
> Anyone?


trust bottle text







i had same question long time ago


----------



## midnytwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> trust bottle text
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i had same question long time ago


Thanks man!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> A thoroughly well written review http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/10/20/mayhems-borosilicate-glass-tube-review/ impressed would be the least of my words to use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> You need to come here though and snap a few thousand pieces of glass then you become an expert at it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... lol


I found these cutters and feel 79014 may be useful, particularly if one wanted to cut a short piece that provides small leverage at one end.
Any experience with, or knowledge of them?


----------



## RpeeKooz

hi guys my new build has been started..
its a 900d with a evga ftw z170 motherboard...
I'm going to be having twin ek x3 250 res in a single loop.and I'm unsure of what colour coolant to use so I need some info and pics
I'm thinking a dark blue or white pastel..but I'm using white led strips to show the components off.i know with the red it turns pinkish..so does anyone have pics of the blue or white pastel with led strip on..
if I want a darker blue then the normal pastel blue.how would I make it
heres a pic of something similar I want
http://ravenessences.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_50&products_id=272


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> hi guys my new build has been started..
> its a 900d with a evga ftw z170 motherboard...
> I'm going to be having twin ek x3 250 res in a single loop.and I'm unsure of what colour coolant to use so I need some info and pics
> I'm thinking a dark blue or white pastel..but I'm using white led strips to show the components off.i know with the red it turns pinkish..so does anyone have pics of the blue or white pastel with led strip on..
> if I want a darker blue then the normal pastel blue.how would I make it
> heres a pic of something similar I want
> http://ravenessences.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_50&products_id=272


Add blue dye to it, or start out with white pastel and add dye until you reach the desired color.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

So, i have something building up in my res. Not sure what it is yet. But i am running X1 in my loop. Adding GPU blocks and a 480 rad soon, so a good cleaning is coming too. So, blitz pro for sure and i am thinking of going aurora 2. All EK blocks and rads. D5 pump with tube res. Any other special care i need to take aside from the good cleaning to make sure the Aurora 2 works well?


----------



## X-Nine

Well, it could be plastic sludge from your tubing, or it could be algae. Word of caution: algae will literally eat into your reservoir and you won't be able to get it out. I tried literally everything when it happened to me a few years ago. It's nasty stuff. Better to do a drain and clean now than to wait and let it get worse.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Well, it could be plastic sludge from your tubing, or it could be algae. Word of caution: algae will literally eat into your reservoir and you won't be able to get it out. I tried literally everything when it happened to me a few years ago. It's nasty stuff. Better to do a drain and clean now than to wait and let it get worse.


i think i have the same algea stuff inside my waterblocks for 1-2 months. Is there a way to remove it without disassemble the blocks?


----------



## DarthBaggins

nope you have to dismantle the blocks, but if you're running X1/XT1 or Pastel I dont see how you could get algae


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> nope you have to dismantle the blocks, but if you're running X1/XT1 or Pastel I dont see how you could get algae


well i used pastel white and i try to figure out what its since then, but after @ZytheEKS told me it wont harm my blocks ,i decide to leave it as is.
Here i took better pictures 5 mins ago:
As you see this is brown stuff inside cpu block


And green stuff inside the gpu bridge :


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Well, it could be plastic sludge from your tubing, or it could be algae. Word of caution: algae will literally eat into your reservoir and you won't be able to get it out. I tried literally everything when it happened to me a few years ago. It's nasty stuff. Better to do a drain and clean now than to wait and let it get worse.


I used Primochill tubing. So, might be the culprat. Think i will go meyhems clear tube when i clean/rebuild the loop. It is building up in odd ways. Like around where the plastic clip that holds the res in place. No idea why since the clip is on the outside. Maybe it is some kind of alge.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks like something is being picked up out of the rads @ozzy1925 or somehow the jetplate is corroding/rusting (not sure how that could have happened with Pastel)


----------



## Prophet4NO1

This is what is in my res. The line across is where the old water level was. Been there since I made the loop. I just went ahead and added more to top it off. That is when I noticed the crud.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> 
> 
> This is what is in my res. The line across is where the old water level was. Been there since I made the loop. I just went ahead and added more to top it off. That is when I noticed the crud.


I got that too but not that bad, probably because I have bay reservoir with only small acrylic window. Yeah, it only appear on the acrylic window in my case & at the previous water line. I don't think that thing is biological though, probably just stain or chemical reaction.


----------



## TPham

Can someone please help me with this mayhem pastel color issues: http://www.overclock.net/t/1578980/mayhem-pastel-changing-color-help


----------



## fisher6

Does Mayhems UV coolants loose their glow with time like the EK ones, anyone using them?


----------



## siox69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siox69*
> 
> mayhems pasterl perfect pink isnt locally available here in the philippines so can anybody help me
> how do i make a fuchsia pink out of X1 clear and mayhems dyes? thank you!


can anyone help me?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siox69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *siox69*
> 
> mayhems pasterl perfect pink isnt locally available here in the philippines so can anybody help me
> how do i make a fuchsia pink out of X1 clear and mayhems dyes? thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can anyone help me?
Click to expand...

Why don't you start with Pastel White? Then mix with dyes to get pink?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Why don't you start with Pastel White? Then mix with dyes to get pink?


Well he did say he has no access to pastel, only X1. Not sure how well an X1 pink would work.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Why don't you start with Pastel White? Then mix with dyes to get pink?
> 
> 
> 
> Well he did say he has no access to pastel, only X1. Not sure how well an X1 pink would work.
Click to expand...

Well he actually said _"mayhems pasterl perfect pink isnt locally available"_. So in my understanding that he said Mayhems Pastel Perfect Pink is not available. He didn't said other Pastel not available too.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookiesowns*
> 
> You sure you don't have that reversed?
> 
> Mayhems ultra clear is slightly more flexible ( better bend radius ) and has a blue tint to it. Primoflex LRT is more clear, and very slightly less flexible than the mayhems ultra clear.


finally came across a tubing review that clears things up, you were right, the Mayhems is the more flexible one with the slight blue tint. I'm still using both in my system and I can definitely tell the difference just looking at them when using just distilled.
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/10/28/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/


----------



## juicebox1155

I just ordered a XSPC Raystorm pro kit with mayhems pastel ice white. I saw a comment by Mick earlier on saying that XSPC Rads come really clean. Does this mean a distilled water flush for the rad prevent the ice white from turning some other color?


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juicebox1155*
> 
> I just ordered a XSPC Raystorm pro kit with mayhems pastel ice white. I saw a comment by Mick earlier on saying that XSPC Rads come really clean. Does this mean a distilled water flush for the rad prevent the ice white from turning some other color?


I have two AX rads in my last build and all they needed was a warm distilled flush. I have not had any problems with PH so far.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> finally came across a tubing review that clears things up, you were right, the Mayhems is the more flexible one with the slight blue tint. I'm still using both in my system and I can definitely tell the difference just looking at them when using just distilled.
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/10/28/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/


Oh snap. And I thought Mayweather vs Pacquiao was gonna be the fight of the century. Can't wait to see the results.


----------



## dkevox

All,

I was advised before to use the mayhem blitz solution to clean my system. I am looking at purchasing the blitz and doing this. My question is:

Looking at the directions for "part 1" it seems this is intended to be done outside of the system on just the radiators. I hate to say this, but I just don't care enough to take all the radiators back out of the system as it would be a LOT of work.

So do I just get part 2? Or is it safe to fill the entire loop with part 1 mix and let the pump circulate it for a few hours before draining, and then move on to part 2?

Thanks!


----------



## juicebox1155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> I have two AX rads in my last build and all they needed was a warm distilled flush. I have not had any problems with PH so far.


Thanks for the info. Pretty excited to say the least.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Oh snap. And I thought Mayweather vs Pacquiao was gonna be the fight of the century. Can't wait to see the results.


right! I love mayhems for the flexibility and price but that primoflex looks so damn clear


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> All,
> 
> I was advised before to use the mayhem blitz solution to clean my system. I am looking at purchasing the blitz and doing this. My question is:
> 
> Looking at the directions for "part 1" it seems this is intended to be done outside of the system on just the radiators. I hate to say this, but I just don't care enough to take all the radiators back out of the system as it would be a LOT of work.
> 
> So do I just get part 2? Or is it safe to fill the entire loop with part 1 mix and let the pump circulate it for a few hours before draining, and then move on to part 2?
> 
> Thanks!


Better a lot of work now than a lot of work later. The most important is cleaning your radiator.


----------



## Anateus

I am currently waiting for Pastel white to come and Im running demineralised+non stain blue+ mayhems extreme (which is year old).
Do I have to get rid of everything and fill fresh water+pastel or I can remove just some of it and top up with pastel+water?


----------



## DarthBaggins

remove all is what I'd recommend


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> finally came across a tubing review that clears things up, you were right, the Mayhems is the more flexible one with the slight blue tint. I'm still using both in my system and I can definitely tell the difference just looking at them when using just distilled.
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/10/28/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/
> 
> 
> 
> Oh snap. And I thought Mayweather vs Pacquiao was gonna be the fight of the century. Can't wait to see the results.
Click to expand...



-Z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> All,
> 
> I was advised before to use the mayhem blitz solution to clean my system. I am looking at purchasing the blitz and doing this. My question is:
> 
> Looking at the directions for "part 1" it seems this is intended to be done outside of the system on just the radiators. I hate to say this, but I just don't care enough to take all the radiators back out of the system as it would be a LOT of work.
> 
> So do I just get part 2? Or is it safe to fill the entire loop with part 1 mix and let the pump circulate it for a few hours before draining, and then move on to part 2?
> 
> Thanks!


Theoretically you could run tubing ONLY between all the radiators, fill with part 1, leave it in there for the recommended time (without the pump, reservoir, blocks, or any other parts JUST THE RADIATORS), toss the tubing, redo the tubing how you want it, do the part 2 flush, then just do it like that.

This would need some confirmation though. Mick, any tubing capable of withstanding the acidity of part 1?

Anyways, part 2 will not remove pH altering contaminants found in the solder joints of radiators. That's part 1's job. So you /could/ just run part 2, but if you have a rad from a manu that doesn't clean their rads well after manufacturing you might still have issues.

-Z


----------



## Mayhem

Its really not a tubing issue with part one. It may be an issue with plated products that may have irregular pits in the plating. The Acid could get into the pits and aid in lifting the plating from the products and this is some thing you best avoid.


----------



## mattxx88

hi guys
how to bend, cut and deburr this tubes?
http://mayhems.co.uk/store/tubing/hard-tube/glass-tubing/


----------



## Mattmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> finally came across a tubing review that clears things up, you were right, the Mayhems is the more flexible one with the slight blue tint. I'm still using both in my system and I can definitely tell the difference just looking at them when using just distilled.
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/10/28/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/


Quote:


> "The Extreme Rigs Soft Tube Test":
> Mayhems Ultra Clear Tubing has a distinct blue tinge to it which becomes far more apparent when placed side by side with the PrimoFlex tube which has a distinct yellowish tinge.


to see the tube so side by side I would choice the mayhems one....









which Fittings can I use with the mayhems?


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Disregard, I had asked my question previously.

Mick, what Red would you say is the best/most durable to use fro WC? Not talking looks here, just function?

Thanks


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Better a lot of work now than a lot of work later. The most important is cleaning your radiator.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Theoretically you could run tubing ONLY between all the radiators, fill with part 1, leave it in there for the recommended time (without the pump, reservoir, blocks, or any other parts JUST THE RADIATORS), toss the tubing, redo the tubing how you want it, do the part 2 flush, then just do it like that.
> 
> This would need some confirmation though. Mick, any tubing capable of withstanding the acidity of part 1?
> 
> Anyways, part 2 will not remove pH altering contaminants found in the solder joints of radiators. That's part 1's job. So you /could/ just run part 2, but if you have a rad from a manu that doesn't clean their rads well after manufacturing you might still have issues.
> 
> -Z


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its really not a tubing issue with part one. It may be an issue with plated products that may have irregular pits in the plating. The Acid could get into the pits and aid in lifting the plating from the products and this is some thing you best avoid.


Thanks all.

Honestly been water cooling for 12 years now and it's funny that this is still an issue. Next setup I'm just not going to leave any fluid visible and call it a day.

Is there even a point to running part 2 if I'm not going to run part 1 first?

I think I'll just drain and flush the system, and then re-fill with a mixture of the x1 red and clear to keep concentration right but have the color diluted. Hopefully then if it does turn darker it'll just turn the red i want.

If the problem does persist, I actually don't care, it's not really a problem and is not really something that can lead to issues later. It's just a darker color fluid red than I had wanted. It's not impacting the performance and there is no way I'm doing 20+ hours of work just to try to fix the color of the fluid.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Better a lot of work now than a lot of work later. The most important is cleaning your radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Theoretically you could run tubing ONLY between all the radiators, fill with part 1, leave it in there for the recommended time (without the pump, reservoir, blocks, or any other parts JUST THE RADIATORS), toss the tubing, redo the tubing how you want it, do the part 2 flush, then just do it like that.
> 
> This would need some confirmation though. Mick, any tubing capable of withstanding the acidity of part 1?
> 
> Anyways, part 2 will not remove pH altering contaminants found in the solder joints of radiators. That's part 1's job. So you /could/ just run part 2, but if you have a rad from a manu that doesn't clean their rads well after manufacturing you might still have issues.
> 
> -Z
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its really not a tubing issue with part one. It may be an issue with plated products that may have irregular pits in the plating. The Acid could get into the pits and aid in lifting the plating from the products and this is some thing you best avoid.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks all.
> 
> Honestly been water cooling for 12 years now and it's funny that this is still an issue. Next setup I'm just not going to leave any fluid visible and call it a day.
> 
> Is there even a point to running part 2 if I'm not going to run part 1 first?
> 
> I think I'll just drain and flush the system, and then re-fill with a mixture of the x1 red and clear to keep concentration right but have the color diluted. Hopefully then if it does turn darker it'll just turn the red i want.
> 
> If the problem does persist, I actually don't care, it's not really a problem and is not really something that can lead to issues later. It's just a darker color fluid red than I had wanted. It's not impacting the performance and there is no way I'm doing 20+ hours of work just to try to fix the color of the fluid.
Click to expand...

I only use tap water, hot water & distilled to clean my rads. No problem. I didn't use any Mayhems Red colored coolant but I did use (non-Mayhems) blood red dye which the color didn't change even after 6 months. I remember because I usually flush my loop every 6 months. The coolant color was basically the same when compare with the extra coolant I have in the bottle that I stored. It only changed (I re-used the coolant after flushing), darken when it almost 1 year running. What I'm trying to say is you're not necessarily need to use acid to clean the radiator.

If you still want to use colored coolant, probably it's good idea to use ones that have wide pH range like deep red. I used Paste Blue Berry before & the color did not change. The wide pH range helped I think but I also like to think that I cleaned the rads properly. I used it more than a year before I changed it to distilled+dye.


----------



## dkevox

I washed/rinsed the rads thoroughly with tap water. Then rinsed with distilled. Then ran them through a loop with distilled water and a filter for 5+ hours each using a home depot bought fountain pump.

I just hadn't heard of the mayhems cleaning stuff. Would have been nice to know back then as I would have done it for sure. But I'm not ripping the system back apart, it's just not happening. I just don't care enough.

A different solution/dye mixture is a good option. Maybe just use a silver coil, distilled, and a dye. I was using the mayhems X1 to have the anti corrosive and anti fungal benefits.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> I washed/rinsed the rads thoroughly with tap water. Then rinsed with distilled. Then ran them through a loop with distilled water and a filter for 5+ hours each using a home depot bought fountain pump.
> 
> I just hadn't heard of the mayhems cleaning stuff. Would have been nice to know back then as I would have done it for sure. But I'm not ripping the system back apart, it's just not happening. I just don't care enough.
> 
> A different solution/dye mixture is a good option. Maybe just use a silver coil, distilled, and a dye. I was using the mayhems X1 to have the anti corrosive and anti fungal benefits.


How long was it take to darken? There's other guy that use Pastel Red posted here a couple days ago complaining that it turn dark just after few hours. He did use the Blitz.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> How long was it take to darken? There's other guy that use Pastel Red posted here a couple days ago complaining that it turn dark just after few hours. He did use the Blitz.


That's concerning as the Pastel Red is what I have on hand........


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattmax*
> 
> to see the tube so side by side I would choice the mayhems one....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which Fittings can I use with the mayhems?


ill definitely get it again, good stuff! you should be able to use any fitting with the same inside (and outside for compression fittings) diameter. I've used EK and phyobia fittings without problems so far. Perhaps Mick would know if someone made fittings that don't like to play nice with mayhems tubing but i doubt it. Only thing is that some of my fittings (primarily phyobia) feel like they don't bite down as hard on mayhems as they do the primoflex.


----------



## Frestoinc

guys,

so to get a clear blood red with petg tubing i just need to purchase a litre of X1 red coolant and pour it right? do i need to add any distilled /pure water with it?


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frestoinc*
> 
> guys,
> 
> so to get a clear blood red with petg tubing i just need to purchase a litre of X1 red coolant and pour it right? do i need to add any distilled /pure water with it?


Get the X1 concentrate, i think the 250ml makes 2 litres when mixed with di water ie: 1750ml of di then add the 250ml concentrate = 2 litres.


----------



## Frestoinc

thanks...

so 2l of di and 250ml x1 concentrate to go then...


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frestoinc*
> 
> thanks...
> 
> so 2l of di and 250ml x1 concentrate to go then...


Just follow the directions on your bottle. I believe that's correct, but it may vary.

To get a red/blood red you need red dye and blue dye. Add red until you get the intensity of red you want, then add blue to darken it up. I'd start with clear coolant and dye it yourself if you're trying to get a specific shade. Or if you just want a generic shade you could always just go with premixed colours.

-Z


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Just follow the directions on your bottle. I believe that's correct, but it may vary.
> 
> To get a red/blood red you need red dye and blue dye. Add red until you get the intensity of red you want, then add blue to darken it up. I'd start with clear coolant and dye it yourself if you're trying to get a specific shade. Or if you just want a generic shade you could always just go with premixed colours.
> 
> -Z


And go slowly. One drop, wait 5 minutes for it to spread. Otherwise you will end up with ugly purple.


----------



## Domler

@Frestoinc
https://youtu.be/NOiCxLmm-l8


----------



## Frestoinc

Thanks for the help guys but I'm puzzled. Aren't dyes supposedly leave more stains as compared to concentrates? Shouldn't we go for the x1 instead of dyes?


----------



## Domler

@Frestoinc
Use mayhems nonstain dye. Uv will always dye. Watch the vid. Important truck for blood red from Mick himself. Helped me.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frestoinc*
> 
> Thanks for the help guys but I'm puzzled. Aren't dyes supposedly leave more stains as compared to concentrates? Shouldn't we go for the x1 instead of dyes?


How i would do it is get X1 clear

then get Mayhems Non Stain Blue Dye 15ml

and Mayhems Non Stain Pink / Red Dye 15ml

first make up your X1 into a large container, then add your red drop by drop to the red you want, then add the blue drop by drop to how dark you want it.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> How i would do it is get X1 clear
> 
> then get Mayhems Non Stain Blue Dye 15ml
> 
> and Mayhems Non Stain Pink / Red Dye 15ml
> 
> first make up your X1 into a large container, then add your red drop by drop to the red you want, then add the blue drop by drop to how dark you want it.


Links are not working but thanks for your response as I was wondering the same thing as the person who asked.









I have 2 liters of pre mixed pastel Red but there's quite the negative feedback on it and particularly how ph sensitive it is so not sure if I should use it or not.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Mobo*
> 
> Links are not working but thanks for your response as I was wondering the same thing as the person who asked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2 liters of pre mixed pastel Red but there's quite the negative feedback on it and particularly how ph sensitive it is so not sure if I should use it or not.


Links should work soon, there doing maintenance on the site. Pastel red is quite sensitive, but aslong as you clean your system and the rads are clean you should be ok.







I would use pastel white then use non staining red dye.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> How long was it take to darken? There's other guy that use Pastel Red posted here a couple days ago complaining that it turn dark just after few hours. He did use the Blitz.


It took over 2 weeks. Which I found quite strange. Was fine for at least 2 weeks, and then suddenly noticed it had changed. (maybe it changed gradually over a couple days) But still, when I noticed it it was like "woah that's way darker!". I'm saying I didn't look at it every day. But definitely good clear red for a while, and then suddenly dark dark.

I'll try to get you a pic tonight.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> It took over 2 weeks. Which I found quite strange. Was fine for at least 2 weeks, and then suddenly noticed it had changed. (maybe it changed slowly over a couple days) But still, when I noticed it it was like "woah that's way darker).
> 
> I'll try to get you a pic tonight.


Your Pastel Red changed color? How were the rads and system cleaned?


----------



## dkevox

Sorry wasn't pastel. It was X1.

And
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> I washed/rinsed the rads thoroughly with tap water. Then rinsed with distilled. Then ran them through a loop with distilled water and a filter for 5+ hours each using a home depot bought fountain pump.
> 
> I just hadn't heard of the mayhems cleaning stuff. Would have been nice to know back then as I would have done it for sure. But I'm not ripping the system back apart, it's just not happening. I just don't care enough.
> 
> A different solution/dye mixture is a good option. Maybe just use a silver coil, distilled, and a dye. I was using the mayhems X1 to have the anti corrosive and anti fungal benefits.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkevox*
> 
> Sorry wasn't pastel. It was X1.
> 
> And


Gotcha thanks for the clarification.


----------



## brazilianloser

Been a few months since my build has been complete and my pastel white still looks like pastel white. Good stuff. Was worried I was going to have to be flushing my system all the time but by the looks of it I am good to do the usual bi-annual clean up or even annually.


----------



## RpeeKooz

hi guys my new build has been started..
its a 900d with a evga ftw z170 motherboard...
I'm going to be having twin ek x3 250 res in a single loop.
I'm thinking a dark blue
if I want a darker blue then the normal pastel blue.how would I make it
heres a pic of something similar I want
http://ravenessences.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_50&products_id=272


----------



## angel0death

Hello all, I was wondering about mixing Aurora 2 and a X1 uv together, I did a small sample and it looks awesome in theory, but in a system would it cause problems? It would be like watering down Aurora I guess, I've ran Aurora 2 for 2 months without a problem in my own personal system as a test, this is the same setups, a lot of loops (literally) so there wouldn't be dead spots, fills from top of a tube res. I guess is it possible it would work?

Edit: this is a petg system btw


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> hi guys my new build has been started..
> its a 900d with a evga ftw z170 motherboard...
> I'm going to be having twin ek x3 250 res in a single loop.
> I'm thinking a dark blue
> if I want a darker blue then the normal pastel blue.how would I make it
> heres a pic of something similar I want
> http://ravenessences.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_50&products_id=272


Prob just add some blue dye to it drop by drop to get the effect you want.


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Prob just add some blue dye to it drop by drop to get the effect you want.


do I mix it before I put it in my system in like a big jug or just add drop by drop once in my system
and does it matter if the dye is mayhems and it ek pastel ??


----------



## DNMock

Is the Pastel Extreme the 20nm pastel Micks been working on, or is it just extremely concentrated normal 40nm pastel?


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel Extreme ™ is 20nm to 40nm in size and is not the same as Pastel ™. They should never be mixed. If using normal pastel stick to normal pastel, if using pastel extreme use only pastel extreme do not mix.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Do have to say, it's been 8-9 months since my initial fill of the Blood Red X1 (did seem to get darker) and still looks good (to me)


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pastel Extreme ™ is 20nm to 40nm in size and is not the same as Pastel ™. They should never be mixed. If using normal pastel stick to normal pastel, if using pastel extreme use only pastel extreme do not mix.


Sweet, so you did have some success with the smaller particulates in the nanofluid.


----------



## Mayhem

We have had some success on a new product but with the new pastel extreme its a different kettle of fish, you'll find pastel extreme should be better at moving heat, cheaper to ship.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Just broke down my loop and found where all the aurora went. Inside the supremacy evo. It will get stuck in there even without the jetplate.


hey I've been rethinking my loop and Aurora and I was wondering how your block was oriented, just out of curiosity. I had mine "regular" (in on the left, out of the right) but I'm wondering if having the block (using same inlet/outlet ports obviously) oriented so the outlet (closest to the edge) is rotated to the bottom wouldn't help draw the pearl out of the block every time it runs since its so close to the bottom. xtremerigs.com test results for the block shows extremely close temp results for the evo when rotated, better temps on the MX than regular.


Spoiler: block orientation


----------



## ali13245

Hey mick when will I be able to purchase pastel extreme yellow?


----------



## Domler

@Mayhem
Hey Mick. Holy crap. That glass. That beautiful glass.

Gonna fix the right cpu out. Change to a 45 long. I'm thinking pastel etxtreme white. 2l dilute. What do you think?


----------



## mattxx88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @Mayhem
> Hey Mick. Holy crap. That glass. That beautiful glass.
> 
> Gonna fix the right cpu out. Change to a 45 long. I'm thinking pastel etxtreme white. 2l dilute. What do you think?


How did u managed glass tube? i mean cut and deburr
wonderful work


----------



## emsj86

White will look good. But I think with the glass tubing a transparent would look even better. Give it more sparkle I guess you could say. Either way it will look damn good


----------



## Domler

Mosaic tile cutter, 220 grit sand paper. I put acrylic in this weekend, and said let's do it. I had the glass but was afraid to mess it up. Used the acrilyc as guides on sizing. ITS GLASS, GLASS DUST CAN BE DANGEROUS, KEEP YOUR WORK SPACE CLEAN AT ALL TIMES. Sorry, felt like a point anyone useing glass should know. It's my second loop I've built. I'm kinda proud. As far as color, I was kinda thinking the same thing about the clear. I'm not hard set on any color. What do you think would be cool? Purple? Green? Any?@emsj86@mattxx88


----------



## Evil-Mobo

You have black and white so I would either try the Black Oil X1 which should look insane inside the glass, maybe a few drops of aurora silver could be dropped into the black to make it sparkle? Or the new extreme Pastel white........


----------



## mattxx88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Mosaic tile cutter, 220 grit sand paper. I put acrylic in this weekend, and said let's do it. I had the glass but was afraid to mess it up. Used the acrilyc as guides on sizing. ITS GLASS, GLASS DUST CAN BE DANGEROUS, KEEP YOUR WORK SPACE CLEAN AT ALL TIMES. Sorry, felt like a point anyone useing glass should know. It's my second loop I've built. I'm kinda proud. As far as color, I was kinda thinking the same thing about the clear. I'm not hard set on any color. What do you think would be cool? Purple? Green? Any?@emsj86@mattxx88


i'm a red-color lover








maybe an acid green would be nice


----------



## TPham

Can you mix pastel red with x1-uv red?


----------



## midnytwarrior

Hi guys!

Just need your expert opinion.
Any idea what this stain is?
The coolant I used is Mayhems XT-1 red which I had in my system since February. And since I'm switching to pastel extreme coupled by my annual loop cleaning, I disassembled my system and this is what I saw. I'm hesitating to open the blocks as it may void the warranty.


----------



## ivoryg37

Which one is better for a clear coolant? Mayhems X1 clear or Mayhem Ultra Pure H20? Trying to get the least restrictive coolant to run in my swiftech h220x


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Which one is better for a clear coolant? Mayhems X1 clear or Mayhem Ultra Pure H20? Trying to get the least restrictive coolant to run in my swiftech h220x


If I am not mistaken the Pure H20 is just their line of water and the X1 is actually a coolant.


----------



## Domler

Think of it like this. Ultra pure is water. X1 is the same water with anticorosive and antimicrobial. Run x1.


----------



## ivoryg37

Thanks for the information guys. Weird that the Pure H20 cost more than the x1 lol.


----------



## total90

hello

My loop mix coolant ( Mayhems Dye red and blue and Pastel Ice White Concentrate ) turn from From red to violet.

how can i fix it

regards


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *total90*
> 
> hello
> 
> My loop mix coolant ( Mayhems Dye red and blue and Pastel Ice White Concentrate ) turn from From red to violet.
> 
> how can i fix it
> 
> regards


http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-blitz-pro.html?sl=en


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Hi guys!
> 
> Just need your expert opinion.
> Any idea what this stain is?
> The coolant I used is Mayhems XT-1 red which I had in my system since February. And since I'm switching to pastel extreme coupled by my annual loop cleaning, I disassembled my system and this is what I saw. I'm hesitating to open the blocks as it may void the warranty.




It seems that this is just a heat discoloration, but also there seems to be some sort chunks of garbage. Honestly, if you don't want to disassemble anything, I wouldn't, get blitz basic and run through for 8 hours, it will clean your blocks nicely, not from the burned, but crap you might have.


----------



## bigboy678

Hey Mick, A while back you posted what colors you wanted to do for the pastel extreme series. Ive scoured this post and couldnt find them. could you please post which colors you want again. Thank you


----------



## yaywafflez

Hey everyone. I am looking for some input. I want to do a UV Purple water loop, and was hoping you could point me in the direction of some galleries where people have done this loop before? I was hoping for a deep purple, not pastel. All help is appreciated.

See this thread for more info about this project:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1580402/i-am-looking-for-suggestions-about-a-new-watercooled-build-with-purple-uv

Thank you in advance,

yaywafflez


----------



## Rahldrac

I ordered Aurora 2 red and blue from Morele in Poland. It seems that I have received Aurora 1 in the red colour, just want to check with you guys before I start claiming that they have done wrong.


----------



## ali13245

Hey guys does anyone know if I can use mayhems non stain dye with distilled water? Would I need to use pt nuke along with it, or does the dye take care of the issues that pt nuke is made for?


----------



## Domler

Dye does not contain any additives. Just dye.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> Dye does not contain any additives. Just dye.


So would it be safe to add pt nuke to the loop with the dye?


----------



## Domler

Yes.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I ordered Aurora 2 red and blue from Morele in Poland. It seems that I have received Aurora 1 in the red colour, just want to check with you guys before I start claiming that they have done wrong.


Sticker Transition , new bottles , all a2., we've dropped the name A2 and if you look in the top right hand corner of the bottle you'll see a version number.


----------



## Domler

@Mayhem
Hey Mick. That beautiful glasssss!!!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @Mayhem
> Hey Mick. That beautiful glasssss!!!


Gotta admit to cringing when I first saw the loops...








Not because of the runs and how you've used the tube, it all looks great








BUT the BP C48 fittings are the only fitting I could not recommend for use with Mayhems glass tubing.
3.5 PSI was about the max holding pressure, and some of your runs look they they have potential to "spread" apart with some pump power.
and such nice hardware under it all - please reconsider different fittings, please


----------



## Domler

@fast_fate
Thanks for the advice. I'm new to watercooling and I read your wonderful review. I thought the single oring bits were the unrecommended ones. Gonna flip it out this weekend. Thanks.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domler*
> 
> @fast_fate
> Thanks for the advice. I'm new to watercooling and I read your wonderful review. I thought the single oring bits were the unrecommended ones. Gonna flip it out this weekend. Thanks.


Yes you certainly don't want a tube popping out. The glass looks awesome though! Nice job so far!


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Just to verify..... the Pastel Ice white concentrate can be mixed with the different non stain dies to make your own color after you mix it with water correct?

Thanks Guys









Edit: Disregard guys found my answer thanks.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Yes you certainly don't want a tube popping out. The glass looks awesome though! Nice job so far!


Not only with glass tubing I wouldn't fill confident enough to have the mini fitting staying in place as the only thing holding tubing in place is small O-ring, where with BP-enhanced multi links adapters, the second part of the fitting as you screwing it compresses the second O-ring against the tubing making very tight fit and holds in place very securely.


----------



## Domler

They are the enhanced fittings. But I do enjoy fillping my loop out a lot. Best way to learn.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> They are the enhanced fittings. But I do enjoy fillping my loop out a lot. Best way to learn.


Yes they are enhanced fittings (low profile)  that's the one you using I gather from the picture I could be wrong thou








but I'm talking about enhanced multi-link adapter that have dual O-rings in them and one of the O-rings 
clamps around your tubing as you tighten them.
Not that there is anything wrong with your multi links, I'm sure you be just fine, but if you ever wonder if there is anything that can hold you beautiful glass tubing in place even better .....well that's the one I'm talking about


----------



## Domler

I used the enhanced link fittings.


----------



## 414347

Just curious, how does the tube fills inside fitting as far is being tight, at one point you must have try pulling the tube from the fitting gently to see if its solid grip, does it fill like its solid! I really like the glass tubing and most of my tubing its straight that would make an easier transition


----------



## traxtech

It seems i am unable to buy Mayhem X1 in my country, but would like a blood red pastel setup. I looked at the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyezjUb76lY

Is it possible to just use the premixed 1000ml UV white pastel, then add the red and blue dye to suit?? Will i see the same results? Since that is all i can seem to get in Australia.

Currently using the premixed pastel red 1000ml with red dye, and it seems to have gone a purpleish tone.. with has turned my masterkleer tubing to a brownish color(since i used tubing in the bottom instead of PETG for ease of use/access), which is kind of weird.


----------



## ali13245

Hey guys Im looking into buying some pastel extreme, but I have some questions. Since the full line up of PE isn't out yet, I was wondering If I could just get the PE white and a dye of my choosing to get the coolant that Im looking for? Is there any disadvantage to doing this or will waiting for the colors be a better solution? Also I know that it says that PE can be diluted up to 3.5 liters, but it says to keep it at 2 liters in order to get a more intense white, but seeing as I will be using a dye would It make a negative impact if I dilute it up to 3.5 liters?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hey guys Im looking into buying some pastel extreme, but I have some questions. Since the full line up of PE isn't out yet, I was wondering If I could just get the PE white and a dye of my choosing to get the coolant that Im looking for? Is there any disadvantage to doing this or will waiting for the colors be a better solution? Also I know that it says that PE can be diluted up to 3.5 liters, but it says to keep it at 2 liters in order to get a more intense white, but seeing as I will be using a dye would It make a negative impact if I dilute it up to 3.5 liters?


A lot of people do that (pastel white + dyes) and IMO, it looks much better because you can mix dyes and really fine-tune the color.


----------



## Evil-Mobo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> A lot of people do that (pastel white + dyes) and IMO, it looks much better because you can mix dyes and really fine-tune the color.


Thanks for adding that to the conversation. Whether I go pastel white or clear X1 I'm going to mx my color myself for the very reason you stated.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> A lot of people do that (pastel white + dyes) and IMO, it looks much better because you can mix dyes and really fine-tune the color.


I think I got my answer, thanks man


----------



## iBruce

Should I go with Mayhems X1 clear concentrate or Mayhems XT1 clear concentrate?

Using Mayhems glass tubing and Primochill clear LRT soft tubing, EK CE and XE rads, EK nickel plexi CPU block EK X3 reservoir Monsoon 7/16x5/8 soft fittings with silver plating, and Bitspower and EK rotary adapters.

Is the Monsoon silver plating enough bio-growth inhibitor since the Mayhems X1 contains no biocidal ingredients?

Which concentrate will appear more crystal clear running through the glass tubing?

Thank you Mayhem.


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Should I go with Mayhems X1 clear concentrate or Mayhems XT1 clear concentrate?
> 
> Using Mayhems glass tubing and Primochill clear LRT soft tubing, EK CE and XE rads, EK nickel plexi CPU block EK X3 reservoir Monsoon 7/16x5/8 soft fittings with silver plating, and Bitspower and EK rotary adapters.
> 
> Is the Monsoon silver plating enough bio-growth inhibitor since the Mayhems X1 contains no biocidal ingredients?
> 
> Which concentrate will appear more crystal clear running through the glass tubing?
> 
> Thank you Mayhem.


Mayhems X1 does contain biocides, says it right on their website. Also, according to Mayhems website, XT-1 is based on Ethylene Glycol which Primochill specifically recommends against using with their tubing.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I think I got my answer, thanks man


NP. Makes sense though, you buy colored pastel and that's what you get. Sometimes it might match well, other times it might look terrible. With whtie + dye, you can add small drops periodically to get the color perfect.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Mayhems X1 does contain biocides, says it right on their website. Also, according to Mayhems website, XT-1 is based on Ethylene Glycol which Primochill specifically recommends against using with their tubing.


Thanks +rep, I was only reading the product description at Performance PCs for the X1, which makes no mention of biocides.

I'll go with the X1 clear concentrate.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> NP. Makes sense though, you buy colored pastel and that's what you get. Sometimes it might match well, other times it might look terrible. With whtie + dye, you can add small drops periodically to get the color perfect.


Yeah I was actually thinking about that after readig your reply lol. As for diluting it to 3.5 liters, will that be okay to be used with a dye?


----------



## iBruce

Should I get the Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning kit while I'm putting together a PPCS order? It seems reasonable, and my last three loops have had that black and gray stringy bio-gunk accumulate at the EK EVO microchannels, when only flushing rads with distilled water.

The black goop is shiny and the gray goop is stringy like its migrating as bio-colonies, I can see it right now in my test bench growing again thru the plexi block. nasty.

Can this pic be avoided if I go with the Blitz Kit?

This pic was former loop disassembled after 8months in use.

From my background in Biology, it appears the gray colonies are surviving on the outskirts and feeding off the black goop.

At closer inspection to the left foreground you can see how the gray bio-strings grow and follow down within the microchannels longitudinally, it's disgusting.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3232_zps68qpamh8.png.html


----------



## Barefooter

Speaking of the Blitz Pro kit. Will one kit be enough to clean four new rads, a pair of 420s and a pair of 280s?


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Speaking of the Blitz Pro kit. Will one kit be enough to clean four new rads, a pair of 420s and a pair of 280s?


It should









7:10 min. into a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOR7SFYbcZ8


----------



## NoodleGTS

Just cleaned out my loop after a year and a half and refilled it with the fabulous Mayhems Pastel Orange!

It's so great!


----------



## Copyright

I haven't read through this whole thread but was curious if I should expect any staining with Mayhem Pastel Purple? Also, is staining an issue when the blocks are not transparent and tube is colored? I am going to use Primochill Advanced LRT white but my res will be clear so I can see the liquid in that. Also, I plan to flush the radiators but after that should I run distilled water through my loop first and drain before using Mayhems Pastel just to insure its flushed?


----------



## NoodleGTS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copyright*
> 
> I haven't read through this whole thread but was curious if I should expect any staining with Mayhem Pastel Purple? Also, is staining an issue when the blocks are not transparent and tube is colored? I am going to use Primochill Advanced LRT white but my res will be clear so I can see the liquid in that. Also, I plan to flush the radiators but after that should I run distilled water through my loop first and drain before using Mayhems Pastel just to insure its flushed?


My tubes are a bit stained from the Pastel Orange.

My reservoir and other components aren't.


----------



## 414347

If you do happen to get any stains I wouldn't worry to much about it







, the Blitz part 2 will clean it off if you ever decide to change colors, get your blocks or tubing cleaned off. I don't know what Mayhems used to make that, it seems like soap on steroids, but it does really good job


----------



## Copyright

Just got my loop up and running... strange thing i ended up with in my res.. I ran the system with the res half full while I was bleeding to make it easier to see the bubbles. I then filled it up. Upon filling it up I noticed a ring around the res where the top of hte fluid level would was when I had it half full. It's been running for hours and does not appear to be going away.. weird.. and that sucks.. it was looking so good and doesn't look bad but I would have been happier without the ring. Ignore the long tube from cpu to pump.. it's temporary until I get my GPU waterblock.. just left my self some slack to work with. I didn't take a pic after I had filled it up.. but you can see that is where the level was and where it ended up leaving a ring around my res. Rads were flushed with distilled water.

http://s14.photobucket.com/user/badlilhemi/media/20151125_143402_resized_zpsduayq7it.jpg.html

http://s14.photobucket.com/user/badlilhemi/media/20151125_145642_resized_zpsglwwdsol.jpg.html


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Ordered some Aurora 2 today. I got 1L premixed. I think that is going to be enough, but if I am short I have a bit of distilled water and XT1 mixed up. Can I add that with no worries to top it off If needed?


----------



## RpeeKooz

hi guys looking for some advice about colours..i like the aurora 2 blue but i will be using pastel blue..what colour dyes to i add and how do i go about mixing it ???
cheers


----------



## Copyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Ordered some Aurora 2 today. I got 1L premixed. I think that is going to be enough, but if I am short I have a bit of distilled water and XT1 mixed up. Can I add that with no worries to top it off If needed?


Isn't the Aurora the one that is for show only?


----------



## JbstormburstADV

Since it seems that Mick isn't being timely about activating accounts on the Mayhems forums, I feel I need to ask some questions here before the sale tomorrow. First off, what is the current expectancy for the current mixes of Aurora 2, Pastel, and the new Pastel Extreme? And second, if I decide to get Pastel Extreme, once I have it fully dissolved, how many drops of dye will it take for the full 3.5 liters to change color to match the dye? The reason I ask is that I wish to find a color close to the same red used in the ROG line of products. If anyone can help with this, it would be appreciated.


----------



## Domler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> Since it seems that Mick isn't being timely about activating accounts on the Mayhems forums, I feel I need to ask some questions here before the sale tomorrow. First off, what is the current expectancy for the current mixes of Aurora 2, Pastel, and the new Pastel Extreme? And second, if I decide to get Pastel Extreme, once I have it fully dissolved, how many drops of dye will it take for the full 3.5 liters to change color to match the dye? The reason I ask is that I wish to find a color close to the same red used in the ROG line of products. If anyone can help with this, it would be appreciated.


Last week I was messing around with pastel and dye. I can't say exactly, pastel needs a lot of dye compared to clear. If I was personally making the purchase tomarrow, diluting extreme to 3.5 ltrs, I would order three bottles red dye. Just to be same. I don't think it would take all three, but wouldn't be shocked if it Took more than too. Mick has a vid on YouTube explaining how to make pastel blood red. Might give some insight. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dyezjUb76lY


----------



## ali13245

I'm looking to do the same with the pastel extreme and dye. I just have a question, my CPU loop takes ~750ml to become full, and my GPU loop takes ~1.1 liters to become full. Can I dilute pastel extreme up to 3.5 liters, and keep the remaining fluid without having to dispose of it?


----------



## error-id10t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *traxtech*
> 
> It seems i am unable to buy Mayhem X1 in my country.


Try

http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/mayhems-x1-clear/

Currently out of stock, maybe send an email and see if they'll get some?


----------



## Domler

Should be good for two to three years. Cool dark area.


----------



## Aesthethc

Hey guys, gonna try the Aurora 2 Red coolant soon. How long does the effect last and how are current Aurora 2 users liking their dye? How much coolant would i need to order too? Cant seem to figure that out


----------



## RpeeKooz

hi guys looking for some advice about colours..i like the aurora 2 blue but i will be using pastel blue..what colour dyes to i add and how do i go about mixing it ???
cheers


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Just got my loop up and running... strange thing i ended up with in my res.. I ran the system with the res half full while I was bleeding to make it easier to see the bubbles. I then filled it up. Upon filling it up I noticed a ring around the res where the top of hte fluid level would was when I had it half full. It's been running for hours and does not appear to be going away.. weird.. and that sucks.. it was looking so good and doesn't look bad but I would have been happier without the ring. Ignore the long tube from cpu to pump.. it's temporary until I get my GPU waterblock.. just left my self some slack to work with. I didn't take a pic after I had filled it up.. but you can see that is where the level was and where it ended up leaving a ring around my res. Rads were flushed with distilled water.


Hmm...Its hard to see if there is any ring stain I even enlarge your pic, sorry, still can't see it


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Guys, I have a serious problem.
please help me in my thread. I am using mayhems X1 coolant and long story short i think i have some sort of biological build up in my dual bay res. thanks!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1582103/serious-problem-during-system-drain-and-fill/0_20


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Guys, I have a serious problem.
> please help me in my thread. I am using mayhems X1 coolant and long story short i think i have some sort of biological build up in my dual bay res. thanks!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1582103/serious-problem-during-system-drain-and-fill/0_20


O man, that looks nasty









So reading your original thread you have cleaned it up and everything is running back on! have you check how are things now.

I honestly don't think this is any living form of bacteria, its seems like plasticizer, there is really no way of stopping that from reacquiring unless you will change liquid more frequently (3-5 months max) unless you go to hard tube.

My nephew had similar looking gunk, just is bad and he was running only distilled water with silver, than he changed to Mayhems Biocide Extreme with distilled and 6 months later he reported that his tubes and everything else is sparkle clean.

Blitz part 2 does really good job of cleaning things up as well, use it annually to keep things healthy


----------



## Mayhem

Well we've been waiting for it for a while and our new Nano Particle Analyser landed on the doorstep yesterday with training to commence this week. We are also looking into a Full Spectrum Analyser were we can look at coolant and there reactions to other issues with in a loop and find out were things are going wrong our self. Simply put we will be the only company ever in the PC liquid cooling market whom are willing to really understand and take our products to the next level with the help of users. No more second guessing or spending a fortune to find an answer.

We now have the ability to do the following

Tell the molecular weight of given samples
Tell the zeta potential of given samples
Tell the Nm size of given samples
Tell the shape of given samples
Test full Ph ranges from 1 to 14
Test temp of coolants from sub zero up to 90c
Pick out what chemicals are causing issues
Physicaly brake down coolants into there individual parts
Test tubing and tell if they are leaching plasticiser and what causes the issues.

This is all to come and this will all be done in-house @ mayhems.


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Well we've been waiting for it for a while and our new Nano Particle Analyser landed on the doorstep yesterday with training to commence this week. We are also looking into a Full Spectrum Analyser were we can look at coolant and there reactions to other issues with in a loop and find out were things are going wrong our self. Simply put we will be the only company ever in the PC liquid cooling market whom are willing to really understand and take our products to the next level with the help of users. No more second guessing or spending a fortune to find an answer.
> 
> We now have the ability to do the following
> 
> Tell the molecular weight of given samples
> Tell the zeta potential of given samples
> Tell the Nm size of given samples
> Tell the shape of given samples
> Test full Ph ranges from 1 to 14
> Test temp of coolants from sub zero up to 90c
> Pick out what chemicals are causing issues
> Physicaly brake down coolants into there individual parts
> Test tubing and tell if they are leaching plasticiser and what causes the issues.
> 
> This is all to come and this will all be done in-house @ mayhems.


Sounds wicked Mick and I look forward to the progress you guys make. Bring us the coolant of the future!


----------



## ali13245

Hey guys I just received my pastel extreme and yellow dye, and was wondering if it would be okay to dilute up to 3.5 liters and add dye to it. I am looking to achieve a fairly bright yellow. I only have 1 bottle of non stain dye, will that be enough to dye 3.5 liters or should I go lower like 2.5 liters?


----------



## silent1

Can pastel pre-mixes be mixed together a form a new color?
Building my first watercooling loop, black canvas (motherboard, hardline tubing, blocks etc) and gold as the accent color. Asrock X99 OC formula as the motherboard to get an impression on color scheme, Primochill golden revolver fittings.
Now, I got my eyes set on sunset yellow pastel pre-mix, but was wondering whether adding orange booster or pre-mix for a slightly more darker shade of yellow is a no-no for long time (plan on 9 months between re-fills) operation.


----------



## Mayhem

Just add orange dye to it.


----------



## ali13245

Hey guys I finished filling my loops a couple of hours ago, and I have been letting the loops bleed since then. I'm having some issues with the pastel however. Does anyone know what is going in the photo below. Why does it look like that? It is happening in both of my loops, but this one is much more noticeable than my GPU loop. I used Mayhems pastel extreme white + Non stain yellow Dye. I mixed 100ml of PE + 2.5L of distilled along with several drops of non stain yellow dye.


----------



## cookiesowns

Looks like air bubbles. Or residue on your res. Let it settle for a few days. Did you clean your res thoroughly?


----------



## Solonowarion

wont the bubbles slowly disappear?


----------



## traxtech

Since it's way too expensive for me to make the Blood Red pastel dye (like the youtube video) because of importing costs, i've had to just go with pastel red again. Is there anyway i can make it more blood red? last time i used red dye with pastel red after awhile it decided to go purple =/


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookiesowns*
> 
> Looks like air bubbles. Or residue on your res. Let it settle for a few days. Did you clean your res thoroughly?


Yes I flushed both loops with distilled water before filling up with pastel. Will they go away on their own?


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> wont the bubbles slowly disappear?


I hope so. I would like to know if anyone else has experienced this, just to know whether or not this is normal


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I hope so. I would like to know if anyone else has experienced this, just to know whether or not this is normal


How long has it been like that. My pastel green looked a little off and I just ran prime 95 on overnight and it was gone in the morning.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> How long has it been like that. My pastel green looked a little off and I just ran prime 95 on overnight and it was gone in the morning.


It has been like that ever since I finished filling up the loops a couple of hours ago


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> It has been like that ever since I finished filling up the loops a couple of hours ago


Ahh gotcha. You'll more than likely be fine. Try turning off the fans and heating up the liquid. Not sure if thats makes it faster but it seems to work for me. Bubbles always hang around after filling.


----------



## ali13245

Yeah I'm currently running AIDA64 stress test as we speak. I'm also playing around with pump speed slowing it and then speeding it up, hopefully that will get rid of the bubbles. This did happen to me when I first filled my loops with distilled water only, and a majority of the bubbles worked themselves out within a 1 week. I was just worried because of the way looks in the photo


----------



## 414347

Sometimes will take up to 3 days for the air bubbles to completely disappear, whether you run distilled water of premixed coolants


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> wont the bubbles slowly disappear?
> 
> 
> 
> I hope so. I would like to know if anyone else has experienced this, just to know whether or not this is normal
Click to expand...

Every time I fill a loop I get microbubbles like that. They are most apparent in the res, but they are also visible in the tubing. For some reason the pastel coolant shows them more, but I think they occur with any type of coolant. They will go away in a few hours to a couple of days.


----------



## pompss

X1 - Oil Black + aurora gold booster.

Would be a problem mixing this two liquids ?

I need to see the gold nano cell moving for my new build log

http://www.overclock.net/t/1582311/build-log-project-phantom-dust-lian-li-pc-05x


----------



## Kostadinos

Here is my first loop in the graphics card ..Wait for the second loop in different color


----------



## cookiesowns

With your system off, try shaking around the res a bit. Or tap it. Also after initial bleed & fill, open the res cap to remove some of the "vacuum", and you'll find you may need to add a bit more coolant if you like to top it off.

The air bubbles will show for a week or so at least from my experience depending on your flow-rate.


----------



## 414347

That is beautiful red btw.
Anyways, what I do is I use external PSU, fill the res and let it run overnight leaving cup off, this way you don't create any pressure which speeds bleeding and bubbles will disappear much faster.
Close site panel to prevent dust from entering your res, if you live in dusty environment, small amount wont harm anything.


----------



## amoliski

Anyone have an idea for killing the bubbles building up on the surface of my reservoirs?



I've got Mayhem's Clear UV Blue dye and some Mayhem's biocide in there.

I'm really loving the effect the UV Blue has, I hope I can find a way to make it play nicely with the Aqualis waterfall effect.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amoliski*
> 
> Anyone have an idea for killing the bubbles building up on the surface of my reservoirs?
> 
> I've got Mayhem's Clear UV Blue dye and some Mayhem's biocide in there.


What speed is your pump running at? I usually get those little bubbles when the pump is running a little too fast. If that isnt it then maybe someone with the same res has a different idea.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> O man, that looks nasty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So reading your original thread you have cleaned it up and everything is running back on! have you check how are things now.
> 
> I honestly don't think this is any living form of bacteria, its seems like plasticizer, there is really no way of stopping that from reacquiring unless you will change liquid more frequently (3-5 months max) unless you go to hard tube.
> 
> My nephew had similar looking gunk, just is bad and he was running only distilled water with silver, than he changed to Mayhems Biocide Extreme with distilled and 6 months later he reported that his tubes and everything else is sparkle clean.
> 
> Blitz part 2 does really good job of cleaning things up as well, use it annually to keep things healthy


I used blitz part 2 when prepping the system. also the rest of the loop was squeaky clean judging by the fittings and gpu block i took apart. not up and running yet. waiting on 3 fittings to complete my fill tube.

I will likely tear open one of the tubes that was being used and do a comparison to a new piece to see if there's a visible difference, in hopes to determine if it was a living build up or plasticizer. i doubt it was the latter personally.


----------



## amoliski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> What speed is your pump running at? I usually get those little bubbles when the pump is running a little too fast. If that isnt it then maybe someone with the same res has a different idea.


Max speed, I'd guess. For some reason, Aquacomputer put the connections for the D5 pump on the bottom of the thing instead of the side or the back, which makes it really tough to get a cable in there. I suppose I'll have to bite the bullet and connect it up eventually.

It does make sense that slowing it down would help- the reservoir on the right is in the cpu/ram/mobo loop, while the problem one just has the two graphics cards to deal with letting it run much faster. To be quite honest, I like the bubbles it makes when it dumps back in to the reservoir, I just wish I could stop them from collecting on top.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amoliski*
> 
> Max speed, I'd guess. For some reason, Aquacomputer put the connections for the D5 pump on the bottom of the thing instead of the side or the back, which makes it really tough to get a cable in there. I suppose I'll have to bite the bullet and connect it up eventually.
> 
> It does make sense that slowing it down would help- the reservoir on the right is in the cpu/ram/mobo loop, while the problem one just has the two graphics cards to deal with letting it run much faster. To be quite honest, I like the bubbles it makes when it dumps back in to the reservoir, I just wish I could stop them from collecting on top.


Even if you slow it down you will probably still get the bubble on the top but they will stay on the top. The ones that are actually in the fluid (from my experience) come from the speed that the fluid is being pulled through the res into the pump. So the one on the left is the res/pump for the gpu's? Which pump is it and what is it hooked up to for speed control? If you cant tell, Im desperately trying to work in a plug to get an Aquareo...dont worry, I'll get the suggestion in. Wait for it...


----------



## Aesthethc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amoliski*
> 
> Max speed, I'd guess. For some reason, Aquacomputer put the connections for the D5 pump on the bottom of the thing instead of the side or the back, which makes it really tough to get a cable in there. I suppose I'll have to bite the bullet and connect it up eventually.
> 
> It does make sense that slowing it down would help- the reservoir on the right is in the cpu/ram/mobo loop, while the problem one just has the two graphics cards to deal with letting it run much faster. To be quite honest, I like the bubbles it makes when it dumps back in to the reservoir, I just wish I could stop them from collecting on top.


Slowing down will indeed help. 100% will for sure cause bubbles. I have a bunch of 90 degree fittings in my loop and four waterblocks, two radiators and my MCP35X pump is literally smooth sailing at 15%. I have a lot of tube running around my PC too. If you like the bubbles, but dont like it collecting up top, try filling the water level a little higher?


----------



## amoliski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> So the one on the left is the res/pump for the gpu's?


Yep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Which pump is it and what is it hooked up to for speed control?


It's an 'AquaComputer D5 Pump Motor w/USB and Aquabus Interface'
It's not hooked up to anything at the moment; mostly because I'm trying to figure out how to actually get it hooked up...
The reservoir is massive, so I ended up mounting it a bit too low. There's about a half inch of clearance between the bottom of the D5 and the bottom of the case, which isn't going to make sneaking a cable into it easy :/



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> If you cant tell, Im desperately trying to work in a plug to get an Aquareo... dont worry, I'll get the suggestion in. Wait for it...


I actually have an Aquareo 6:



The problem is hooking the pumps to it... and figuring out what to do with all of this stuff:



I think my choices are:

Drill a hole in the case under the pumps so I can plug the cables in. Downside: Drilling holes in this case is a hassle, and I prefer to not have to do it any more...
Disassemble half of my loop, remove the reservoirs, plug the cables in, reattach the reservoirs and have the cables pressed into the bottom of the case... which probably isn't great for them. Downside: I'm not totally certain the reservoirs will end up in the exact same place, which will be a nightmare for my hard-acrylic tubes.
Find a 90° adapter for the pins so I can plug them in properly. Downside: Does something like that even exist? Will something like this work?
Not really a fan of any of those options, so at this point I'd rather keep the pumps on full and either live with the bubble-foam on top or find some other way to clear it up.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Drill a hole in the case under the pumps so I can plug the cables in. Downside: Drilling holes in this case is a hassle, and I prefer to not have to do it any more...
> Disassemble half of my loop, remove the reservoirs, plug the cables in, reattach the reservoirs and have the cables pressed into the bottom of the case... which probably isn't great for them. Downside: I'm not totally certain the reservoirs will end up in the exact same place, which will be a nightmare for my hard-acrylic tubes.
> Find a 90° adapter for the pins so I can plug them in properly. Downside: Does something like that even exist? Will something like this work?


The bubbles will eventually disappear my friend


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I used blitz part 2 when prepping the system. also the rest of the loop was squeaky clean judging by the fittings and gpu block i took apart. not up and running yet. waiting on 3 fittings to complete my fill tube.
> 
> I will likely tear open one of the tubes that was being used and do a comparison to a new piece to see if there's a visible difference, in hopes to determine if it was a living build up or plasticizer. i doubt it was the latter personally.


I can bet it's plasticizer







and if you didn't flash enough times with distilled water after using Blitz part 2 that will promote the plasticizer to seep from tube(s) even faster. I know Mick instruction is to run 3-4 times with distilled after using Blitz but I found that not enough to totally get the blitz out of your system I usually do 6-7 times [IMG
each time 25-30 min. to ensure that blitz is totally gone


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sticker Transition , new bottles , all a2., we've dropped the name A2 and if you look in the top right hand corner of the bottle you'll see a version number.


Was about to ask the same thing. Got two bottles of red with different labels.

The freezing point on both bottles is different though. Old label says -25c, new label says -8c. Why the change?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amoliski*
> 
> It's an 'AquaComputer D5 Pump Motor w/USB and Aquabus Interface'
> It's not hooked up to anything at the moment; mostly because I'm trying to figure out how to actually get it hooked up...
> The reservoir is massive, so I ended up mounting it a bit too low. There's about a half inch of clearance between the bottom of the D5 and the bottom of the case, which isn't going to make sneaking a cable into it easy :/
> 
> I actually have an Aquareo 6:
> 
> The problem is hooking the pumps to it... and figuring out what to do with all of this stuff:


Your photo with all the cables shows something interesting: were the cables with part number 53165 provided from us directly or where did you get them? These are special converter cables that have been sent out to a handful of customers with devices that feature the mps controller board and had two plugs mounted in reverse:



In your image I can see that the flow sensor is correct. I can not tell it for the pumps but if they are also correct, then DO NOT use these cables!

The flow sensor and D5 pumps are based on the same controller board. If you want to connect all of them to the aquaero you have to connect them via aquabus to the highspeed port on the aquaero. You can use y-cables or splitter boards to do so. The important thing is that all wires must be forwarded - so for example a regular y-cable for fans would not work since it has the rpm wire cut for one connector.

Before you connect everything you have to assign different aquabus ID numbers to these devices. This can be done in the system tab of the aquasuite when the device is connected via USB. Each ID number must be unique.

If you want to use the flow sensor without the USB cable you have to use a 4-pin aquabus cables. This variant can power the sensor through the aquaero. The supplied 3-pin cable is also fine for the communication but requires the USB cable in addition because otherwise the sensor will get no power.

By the way: the factory settings for the pump is full speed. As soon as you change it the pump will continue to use your settings (also if no more USB or aquabus is connected).


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *amoliski*
> 
> It's an 'AquaComputer D5 Pump Motor w/USB and Aquabus Interface'
> It's not hooked up to anything at the moment; mostly because I'm trying to figure out how to actually get it hooked up...
> The reservoir is massive, so I ended up mounting it a bit too low. There's about a half inch of clearance between the bottom of the D5 and the bottom of the case, which isn't going to make sneaking a cable into it easy :/
> 
> I actually have an Aquareo 6:
> 
> The problem is hooking the pumps to it... and figuring out what to do with all of this stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> Your photo with all the cables shows something interesting: were the cables with part number 53165 provided from us directly or where did you get them? These are special converter cables that have been sent out to a handful of customers with devices that feature the mps controller board and had two plugs mounted in reverse:
> 
> 
> 
> In your image I can see that the flow sensor is correct. I can not tell it for the pumps but if they are also correct, then DO NOT use these cables!
> 
> The flow sensor and D5 pumps are based on the same controller board. If you want to connect all of them to the aquaero you have to connect them via aquabus to the highspeed port on the aquaero. You can use y-cables or splitter boards to do so. The important thing is that all wires must be forwarded - so for example a regular y-cable for fans would not work since it has the rpm wire cut for one connector.
> 
> Before you connect everything you have to assign different aquabus ID numbers to these devices. This can be done in the system tab of the aquasuite when the device is connected via USB. Each ID number must be unique.
> 
> If you want to use the flow sensor without the USB cable you have to use a 4-pin aquabus cables. This variant can power the sensor through the aquaero. The supplied 3-pin cable is also fine for the communication but requires the USB cable in addition because otherwise the sensor will get no power.
> 
> By the way: the factory settings for the pump is full speed. As soon as you change it the pump will continue to use your settings (also if no more USB or aquabus is connected).
Click to expand...

Perfect support


----------



## Anateus

Pastel white with non stain blue + Phalanx sapphire blue sleeving. Im in love!


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sticker Transition , new bottles , all a2., we've dropped the name A2 and if you look in the top right hand corner of the bottle you'll see a version number.
> 
> 
> 
> Was about to ask the same thing. Got two bottles of red with different labels.
> 
> The freezing point on both bottles is different though. Old label says -25c, new label says -8c. Why the change?
Click to expand...

We've changed to formula and improved the zeta potential of the products as well as various other thing to improve the coolants and the way they work. Mayhems is the proud owner of new analytical devices in our new science lab. We are only 1 of 2 companies who own such equipment in the UK to aid us in improving coolants and also to aid in finding issues. Were working on new coolants and as we improve we will simply roll them out over the top of existing stock.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Pastel white with non stain blue + Phalanx sapphire blue sleeving. Im in love!


That color is great! I'm working on a dual loop system and everything is white and that color blue. The Blueberry Pastel is a little too light, so I bought some of the Pastel White, the Pastel Extreme White, the Pastel Purple Concentrate, and some of the Blue Dye. Since one of my loops is going to actually use one of the Pastel Whites, I was going to try mixing a little bit of each until I find the right color combination. I was thinking the Pastel White with Blue Dye added might get me the color I want and the consistency I'm looking for, but I'm nowhere close to that stage yet. I've been so indecisive with this build that it seems like by the time I finish putting everything together, all my parts will be out of warranty.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We've changed to formula and improved the zeta potential of the products as well as various other thing to improve the coolants and the way they work. Mayhems is the proud owner of new analytical devices in our new science lab. We are only 1 of 2 companies who own such equipment in the UK to aid us in improving coolants and also to aid in finding issues. Were working on new coolants and as we improve we will simply roll them out over the top of existing stock.


Cool. Is it OK to mix the two? I got two 1L premixed so i would have enough for my loop. Think i am going to need most of both bottles for my new loop.


----------



## Mayhem

It should work how ever if not let me know and ill replace with bottles from the same batch


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Pastel white with non stain blue + Phalanx sapphire blue sleeving. Im in love!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What a beautiful blue!


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> It should work how ever if not let me know and ill replace with bottles from the same batch


Will do. Thank you! Waiting for a rad i ordered to gome in. Then, teardown, clean and rebuild. Looking forward to it!


----------



## b0gd4n

Hey guys.

I am preparing for my new build and got myself some Lime yellow uv coolant (2l) and some mint green concentrate (250ml) - both pastel.

I thinking of mixing the two to get the lime yellow more gree - I want a mint green uv pastel - but am wondering if this is a good idea?

I want to just add some of the concentrate over 2ltrs of the pre mixed lime yellow uv, but not sure how much to mix,or if I'd need to dilute the concentrate first.

Also, I am finding it extremely difficult to find any clear petg tubing in the UK, so I might have to go for the primochill uv green tubing.


----------



## cyphon

Been awhile since I've posted, been ridiculously busy the last few months. Really been meaning to do a proper photo shoot on my last build, but here are a couple teasers from my phone. Hopefully will have better shots soon









* bottom plate here wasn't fastened down when I took this, lol




This is pastel blue berry with a ton of blue dye and a touch of red dye as well.


----------



## traxtech

So, this is my 6 month old watercooling setup. Everything was cleaned oCD style/flushed with blitz correctly before install and the soft piping is masterkleer clear.... Yet look at the color of the tubing. I only used it on the bottom section to make it easier.

This is with Mayhem Pascal Red + a bit of red dye, which WAS a perfect red before, now look at it..





I already bought new pascal red coolant and grabbed some PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing Clear since i am not happy with the color of the coolant and the color of that tubing, but will it happen again?

Thanks..


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *traxtech*
> 
> So, this is my 6 month old watercooling setup. Everything was cleaned oCD style/flushed with blitz correctly before install and the soft piping is masterkleer clear.... Yet look at the color of the tubing. I only used it on the bottom section to make it easier.
> 
> This is with Mayhem Pascal Red + a bit of red dye, which WAS a perfect red before, now look at it..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already bought new pascal red coolant and grabbed some PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing Clear since i am not happy with the color of the coolant and the color of that tubing, but will it happen again?
> 
> Thanks..


That looks like plasticizer leaching in the tube. Masterkleer clear tubing is known to have plasticizer problem.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *traxtech*
> 
> So, this is my 6 month old watercooling setup. Everything was cleaned oCD style/flushed with blitz correctly before install and the soft piping is masterkleer clear.... Yet look at the color of the tubing. I only used it on the bottom section to make it easier.
> 
> This is with Mayhem Pascal Red + a bit of red dye, which WAS a perfect red before, now look at it..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already bought new pascal red coolant and grabbed some PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing Clear since i am not happy with the color of the coolant and the color of that tubing, but will it happen again?
> 
> Thanks..


The color change of the red is usually do to a pH imbalance, which is often from rad flux.

I have also run into something similar where I used too much red (deep red specifically) and it hadn't propagated thru my system enough at first, so it looked perfect when i had stopped adding dye, but it after some time, it was a much much darker color. This is when I learned that mixing color in-system is a bad idea and now always mix outside of the system.

The tubing issue could be plasticizer and that could effect your fluid as well


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The color change of the red is usually do to a pH imbalance, which is often from rad flux.
> 
> I have also run into something similar where I used too much red (deep red specifically) and it hadn't propagated thru my system enough at first, so it looked perfect when i had stopped adding dye, but it after some time, it was a much much darker color. This is when I learned that mixing color in-system is a bad idea and now always mix outside of the system.
> 
> The tubing issue could be plasticizer and that could effect your fluid as well


Same, red turned purple in like a week.


----------



## Rahldrac

I have run red for 8 months now with no color change really. Gonna try myself on some Aurora 2 after christmas.


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *traxtech*
> 
> So, this is my 6 month old watercooling setup. Everything was cleaned oCD style/flushed with blitz correctly before install and the soft piping is masterkleer clear.... Yet look at the color of the tubing. I only used it on the bottom section to make it easier.
> 
> This is with Mayhem Pascal Red + a bit of red dye, which WAS a perfect red before, now look at it..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already bought new pascal red coolant and grabbed some PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing Clear since i am not happy with the color of the coolant and the color of that tubing, but will it happen again?
> 
> Thanks..


you should use pastel instead of pascal














For my white color was the same, even i have flushed with both blitz parts







now using pastel extreme, will see how it goes


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> you should use pastel instead of pascal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my white color was the same, even i have flushed with both blitz parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now using pastel extreme, will see how it goes


I recently ordered some PE and Mayhems tubing. Let us know how the Extreme works out.


----------



## traxtech

Yes, I used pastel









What's the chances I have to rip open my blocks given the current
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That looks like plasticizer leaching in the tube. Masterkleer clear tubing is known to have plasticizer problem.


I thought masterkleer was given the all clear.. and that's the only reason i bought it. Or is it the colored tubings only that don't have it?


----------



## Mayhem

were working with idc on a new formula we've already got interesting results back from our in lab testing and it will aid us in creating a more PH stable formula that's not so iffy with ph imbalances don't forget we cannot fix bad rads only help clean them. Mayhems Havoc doesn't have this issue and right now its really cheap.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *traxtech*
> 
> Yes, I used pastel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's the chances I have to rip open my blocks given the current
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> That looks like plasticizer leaching in the tube. Masterkleer clear tubing is known to have plasticizer problem.
> 
> 
> 
> I thought masterkleer was given the all clear.. and that's the only reason i bought it. Or is it the colored tubings only that don't have it?
Click to expand...

Masterkleer clear do have plasticizer problem. Some people did reported everything is ok (in the watercooling tube database) but some people also reported having problem with the tube clouding, opaque like brown color substance on the inside tube wall.


----------



## traxtech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Masterkleer clear do have plasticizer problem. Some people did reported everything is ok (in the watercooling tube database) but some people also reported having problem with the tube clouding, opaque like brown color substance on the inside tube wall.


Ah okay, my plan was to just change it over when i move in a month or so.. but i should probably change it asap. Thank you.

Is it fine to just flush the system out with distilled water? i misplaced my blitz kit so i would have to buy it again.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *traxtech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Masterkleer clear do have plasticizer problem. Some people did reported everything is ok (in the watercooling tube database) but some people also reported having problem with the tube clouding, opaque like brown color substance on the inside tube wall.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah okay, my plan was to just change it over when i move in a month or so.. but i should probably change it asap. Thank you.
> 
> Is it fine to just flush the system out with distilled water? i misplaced my blitz kit so i would have to buy it again.
Click to expand...

Considering the Pastel changed color, I recommend pull down your loop & properly clean everything, especially the radiators using tap water & distilled water. For the radiators I would run tap water through it. Be careful with the water pressure, DO NOT turn the tap all the way because it may damage the small tubes on the radiator. Then I would filled the radiator with hot water (not boiled water) & shake it. Repeat a couple of times. Finally filled the radiator with distilled water & shake it. Repeat a couple of times.


----------



## traxtech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Considering the Pastel changed color, I recommend pull down your loop & properly clean everything, especially the radiators using tap water & distilled water. For the radiators I would run tap water through it. Be careful with the water pressure, DO NOT turn the tap all the way because it may damage the small tubes on the radiator. Then I would filled the radiator with hot water (not boiled water) & shake it. Repeat a couple of times. Finally filled the radiator with distilled water & shake it. Repeat a couple of times.


Was really hoping i wouldn't have to tear it down just because it's a pain in the butt haha, so basically do what i did before even installing them again -.- fun fun.

Thanks


----------



## amoliski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Your photo with all the cables shows something interesting: were the cables with part number 53165 provided from us directly or where did you get them? These are special converter cables that have been sent out to a handful of customers with devices that feature the mps controller board and had two plugs mounted in reverse


I bought all of my watercooling stuff from a coworker who bought everything for his build over a year ago, but kept putting off putting it together because measuring/bending/cutting the hard acrylic tubes was such a daunting task. Apparently the pumps have the reversed connectors (thanks for noticing that so I could ask before I found out the hard way that the pumps reversed).

I just discovered a small leak on the right-side pump (probably where the res meets the base), so it looks like pulling everything apart is unavoidable









I'll be sure to configure/plug in all of the aquacomputer stuff before I put it back together.

To apologize for off-tracking the thread a bit, here's some pictures of the insanely cool Clear UV Blue coolant, it looks far better than I could have hoped!


----------



## M3TAl

Dumb question: do pH test strips work with X1? Or are they only good for pure water that don't have say inhibitors, anti-corrosion, or dye in them?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Dumb question: do pH test strips work with X1? Or are they only good for pure water that don't have say inhibitors, anti-corrosion, or dye in them?


The dye will stain the pH strip.







You'll need one of those digital pen-like pH tester.


----------



## StuttgartRob

I have had Mayhems Pre-mixed Pastel Blueberry running for the last 8 months in my system. Will be draining system soon


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I have had Mayhems Pre-mixed Pastel Blueberry running for the last 8 months in my system. Will be draining system soon


It looks like everything is still in great shape, I love the GPU block I enlarged the picture and there is no sigh of any kind corrosion or living creatures








Just curious, do you know how hot did your liquid ever got and since initial setup did your pastel change color at all ?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Aquacomputers makes some great looking blocks


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I have had Mayhems Pre-mixed Pastel Blueberry running for the last 8 months in my system. Will be draining system soon
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like everything is still in great shape, I love the GPU block I enlarged the picture and there is no sigh of any kind corrosion or living creatures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious, do you know how hot did your liquid ever got and since initial setup did your pastel change color at all ?
Click to expand...

I can tell you my temp. My water temp can easily in 40s Celsius region when under load. Ambient in 30s Celsius. I do not turn on A/C most of the time.

May 2013


February 2014


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I can tell you my temp. My water temp can easily in 40s Celsius region when under load. Ambient in 30s Celsius. I do not turn on A/C most of the time.


Nice build. Normally I would say those temps are on high-end to my liking with single or even two GPUs. My water temperature with 3 Titans Black, Chip, VRM and very hot running 4960X CPU was recorded at the hottest point of 30-32C in extreme work load with CPU and 3x GPUs at 100% at the same time by decryption passwords, or rendering huge 3D projects but then 30C degrees its insanely hot







, so your temps are actually nice


----------



## StuttgartRob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> It looks like everything is still in great shape, I love the GPU block I enlarged the picture and there is no sigh of any kind corrosion or living creatures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious, do you know how hot did your liquid ever got and since initial setup did your pastel change color at all ?


I'm not sure if the fluid did change colors over the last 8 months. My temps have only gone to 35 degrees C when it was real hot during the summer under load (no A/C in my apartment). Any other time it doesn't get above 25 degrees C. I have two 360mm AMS rads in the pedestal and a 240mm AMS rad in the flex bay.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

How much dye donyou need to mix with aurora to change it? I have some of the dark red left and i was thinking inwanted to darken the Aurora red a bit once i put it in.


----------



## traxtech

Left is the new primochill and right is the masterkleer that was in the rig for less than you 6 months.

In other news, I had to go with pascal red again and have blue dye here. To darken it up a bit, a drop or 2 of blue dye should get it to where it needs to be, right?


----------



## cyphon

Just finished doing pictures for my HTPC build. It's a Caselabs s5, with an EVGA micro x99 board and an MSI GTX 970. Mayhems blue berry blue with blue and red dye








*Build Log*


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just finished doing pictures for my HTPC build. It's a Caselabs s5, with an EVGA micro x99 board and an MSI GTX 970. Mayhems blue berry blue with blue and red dye
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Build Log*


Lookin good Cyphon. I dig your Polar Vortex logo and color choices

Is it just me and my eyes or in the second to last pic are the reservoirs and fittings angled inwards slightly? It almost looks like the fitting on the res closest to your GPU isn't seated flush


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deehoC*
> 
> Lookin good Cyphon. I dig your Polar Vortex logo and color choices
> 
> Is it just me and my eyes or in the second to last pic are the reservoirs and fittings angled inwards slightly? It almost looks like the fitting on the res closest to your GPU isn't seated flush


I think it is a little bit of an optical illusion. The res did slide a little outward, so it is angled just a bit. The tube/fitting is solid. I leak tested extensively and I've actually been running it for 2-3 months now and haven't had any issue


----------



## deehoC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I think it is a little bit of an optical illusion. The res did slide a little outward, so it is angled just a bit. The tube/fitting is solid. I leak tested extensively and I've actually been running it for 2-3 months now and haven't had any issue


Awesome! I figured it wasn't leaking but I just thought it looked a tiny bit out of place in comparison to the rest of the cleanliness/tidiness of the build.


----------



## 0x00000000

How long do I leave mayhems blitz part one in the radiator?
I bought the blitz pro kit and it came with a piece of paper for instructions and the bottle. On the piece of paper it says to leave part 1 in the radiator for not more than 2 hours. However, there is a label on the part 1 bottle which says to leave it in the radiator for 6 to 12 hours. I use alphacool UT60 480mm radiators, which set of instructions should I use?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0x00000000*
> 
> How long do I leave mayhems blitz part one in the radiator?
> I bought the blitz pro kit and it came with a piece of paper for instructions and the bottle. On the piece of paper it says to leave part 1 in the radiator for not more than 2 hours. However, there is a label on the part 1 bottle which says to leave it in the radiator for 6 to 12 hours. I use alphacool UT60 480mm radiators, which set of instructions should I use?


Longer the better. I normally put it in in the evening and rinse them out in the morning. About 12 hours later.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just finished doing pictures for my HTPC build. It's a Caselabs s5, with an EVGA micro x99 board and an MSI GTX 970. Mayhems blue berry blue with blue and red dye
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Build Log*


That's one hell of a HTPC.


----------



## 0x00000000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Longer the better. I normally put it in in the evening and rinse them out in the morning. About 12 hours later.


Are all part 1 bottle sold by mayhems of the same concentration? I'm afraid that I mix it and it ends up with a different concentration than yours and I leave it for 12 hours...


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0x00000000*
> 
> Are all part 1 bottle sold by mayhems of the same concentration? I'm afraid that I mix it and it ends up with a different concentration than yours and I leave it for 12 hours...


Should be, but you should follow the instructions per the paperwork, per Mayhems.




It's not all that strong once mixed with water per the instructions.


----------



## InfoSeeker

I am looking at placing a liquid flowmeter in my next system, and am doing some homework.

My question is, for the device I am looking at, there are three option for o-rings: Buna-N, EPR & Viton.
Looking on the web I find the following:
Quote:


> *Nitrile (Buna-N)*
> Temperature range: Between -65 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.
> Suited for: General purpose seals, such as petroleum oils, water and some hydraulic fluids. Buna-N is also resistant against tears and abrasive treatment.
> Deficiencies: Buna-N can have problems with automotive brake fluid, ketones, phosphate ester hydraulic fluids, and nitro and halogenated hydrocarbons. While it is ozone and weather resistant, this resistance is not infallible but can be supported through compounding.
> Applications: Nitrile functions well in applications that have limited temperature and resistance requirements.
> 
> *Ethylene Propylene Rubber (EPR)*
> Temperature range: Between -65 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.
> Suited for: Skydrol, a hydraulic fluid, has a noxious smell and can irritate skin, and its corrosive properties can be damaging to equipment. EPR o-rings work well with Skydrol and other hydraulic fluids, as well as steam, water, silicone oils, brake fluids and alcohols.
> Deficiencies: Similar to nitrile, EPR is not perfect for a wide-range of applications due to wear and tear issues.
> Applications: The aerospace industry uses EPR o-rings in hydraulic pumps.
> 
> *Fluorocarbon (Viton)*
> Suited for: Fluorocarbon is an all around material that can handle a number of applications, especially diverse sealing jobs that involve movement. It is also suited for petroleum oils, silicone fluids and gases, acids and some halogenated hydrocarbons, like carbon tetrachloride.
> Deficiencies: Fluorocarbon is not recommended for Skydrol, amines, esters and ethers with low molecular weight and hot hydrofluoric acids.
> Applications: Fluorocarbon o-rings are very versatile, and features in many different automotive, appliance and chemical processing industries.


Is there any chemical makeup in Mayhems that would drive me toward, or away, from the three options?


----------



## RichardNixon

I could use some color mixing advice. I'm trying to get a deep emerald green to match the color of my MINI. I was planning on mixing a pastel green with black until it reached the desired color, but I'm not a very artistic person and I'm not sure if it will work the way I expect? Any thoughts on products and ratios to reach my goal? Looking at the RGB values I'm wondering if I should just mix green and blue at a 2:1 ratio, but I'm not sure if that's how colors work.

Here's a picture of the color and the associated color values.
Hex triplet #014225
sRGBB (r, g, b) (1, 66, 37)
CMYKH (c, m, y, k) (98, 0, 44, 74)
HSV (h, s, v) (153.2°°, 98.5%, 25.9%)


----------



## AlexHa

I have a question about the pastel coolants. I am thinking of buying the red pastel but after reading all the pages (all 1266 of them) I got worried that the pastel will stain. How much does the pastel stain, and also If the color fades our can i add mayhems red dye? thank you


----------



## Copyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hey guys I finished filling my loops a couple of hours ago, and I have been letting the loops bleed since then. I'm having some issues with the pastel however. Does anyone know what is going in the photo below. Why does it look like that? It is happening in both of my loops, but this one is much more noticeable than my GPU loop. I used Mayhems pastel extreme white + Non stain yellow Dye. I mixed 100ml of PE + 2.5L of distilled along with several drops of non stain yellow dye.


Mine did this exactly and after about a week all the bubbles were gone.


----------



## Anateus

Weird, mine had next to no air bubbles. I couldnt even see big bubbles coming when bleeding the loop.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> I could use some color mixing advice. I'm trying to get a deep emerald green to match the color of my MINI. I was planning on mixing a pastel green with black until it reached the desired color, but I'm not a very artistic person and I'm not sure if it will work the way I expect? Any thoughts on products and ratios to reach my goal? Looking at the RGB values I'm wondering if I should just mix green and blue at a 2:1 ratio, but I'm not sure if that's how colors work.
> 
> Here's a picture of the color and the associated color values.
> Hex triplet #014225
> sRGBB (r, g, b) (1, 66, 37)
> CMYKH (c, m, y, k) (98, 0, 44, 74)
> HSV (h, s, v) (153.2°°, 98.5%, 25.9%)


Use emerald green and a touch of blue.


----------



## Mayhem

@InfoSeeker Nitrile (Buna-N) are the better o-rings weve found less prone to shrinkage.


----------



## aznguyen316

mayhem's pastel question, so I needed to top off my reservoir since I removed my GPU from the loop with QDC's. Anyway, to top off the reservoir I did not have any distilled water, so I just poured in my pastel concentrated into the res. Is it fine to have a high ratio of pastel? Will this affect anything? Otherwise I could always drain some and add distilled water, but the ratio may not be accurate as it's just guesswork now.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @InfoSeeker Nitrile (Buna-N) are the better o-rings weve found less prone to shrinkage.


Thank you, greatly appreciated.


----------



## FuriousPop

wanted to aim this question at Mike if possible,

can you recommend a coolant for me to use?

Currently i have the following items:

koolance 380i (contains some nickel in it)
Xspc r9 290 razor block
xspc res 270 pump combo
xspc rx480 rads (push+pull)
Primochill advanced LRT UV Blue
Primochill Clear/UV Blue coolant

and this is what has happened to my res - looks as thought this gunk is a a build up of combination of things - air in the res and the temp reaction to high (my belief) - since the gunk has a bluish tinge to it - most likely the coolant has reached a temp it didnt like



i am looking to clean the loop out - plan to run some tap water + the blitz pro part 2 thru the loop and then run distilled water to cleanse and then fill it again with coolant.

my question is: can you recommend a "Mayhem" coolant that not only has a high temp tolerance but will/could possible avoid situations like this in future? i know i am partly to blame since it has been 1+years running without me cleaning it - lesson learnt.

any recomm would be great, thanks


----------



## JbstormburstADV

OK, so two things I need to ask at this point since I have the concentrate and dyes I bought;

a) What is the best solution for long-term storage after you mix the final coolant using the concentrate and dye? Do I want plastic (i.e.: milk carton), glass. or does it not matter? Room temperature or in the fridge if it matters? And what about Blitz Part 1 once it is in solution?

b) What is the best method to mix your concentrates (both coolant and acid) and dyes into solution? Shift the container side to side slightly? Stirring rod (glass?)? Something else I'm not considering? Leaving it be?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> OK, so two things I need to ask at this point since I have the concentrate and dyes I bought;
> 
> a) What is the best solution for long-term storage after you mix the final coolant using the concentrate and dye? Do I want plastic (i.e.: milk carton), glass. or does it not matter? Room temperature or in the fridge if it matters? And what about Blitz Part 1 once it is in solution?
> 
> b) What is the best method to mix your concentrates (both coolant and acid) and dyes into solution? Shift the container side to side slightly? Stirring rod (glass?)? Something else I'm not considering? Leaving it be?


A) put back in the mayhems bottles is best. Store in cool dark place

B)to get the dye ratio I want, I do a small bit of concentrate + water in a glass and dye to color. For final mix, I put the concentrate and water into a jug and shake to mix. Then I'll slowly add the due following my ratio to get to color, shaking after every couple drops to mix.


----------



## JbstormburstADV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> A) put back in the mayhems bottles is best. Store in cool dark place
> 
> B)to get the dye ratio I want, I do a small bit of concentrate + water in a glass and dye to color. For final mix, I put the concentrate and water into a jug and shake to mix. Then I'll slowly add the due following my ratio to get to color, shaking after every couple drops to mix.


Alright, so you mention that using the Mayhems bottles is the best storage option. How does that work if I bought concentrate and I want to store the mixture once I dilute?


----------



## kizwan

Just use any bottle that can accommodate the mixed coolant & store the bottle in cool & dark place like closet.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> Alright, so you mention that using the Mayhems bottles is the best storage option. How does that work if I bought concentrate and I want to store the mixture once I dilute?


How much extra will you have after filling your loop? I typically only have a little bit left that will easily fit in the 1-2 concentrate bottles I have used. If you need more capacity, you can use another container. you ideally don't want a container that will allow a bunch of light through, which is why the mayhems bottles are perfect.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Aurora 2, leak testing!


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Just how far can i turn my D5 down and still be ok with Aurora? Looks better the slower the pump is going. Want to go as low as i can till its to slow to keep the nanofluid suspended or temps go up. So, the lowest safe setting for the fluid?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Just how far can i turn my D5 down and still be ok with Aurora? Looks better the slower the pump is going. Want to go as low as i can till its to slow to keep the nanofluid suspended or temps go up. So, the lowest safe setting for the fluid?


Level 4 or 5 are the recommended.

Guess it'd depend on your loop config to really say though....


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Level 4 or 5 are the recommended.
> 
> Guess it'd depend on your loop config to really say though....


You can see it above. All EK blocks. GPUs in parallel and a pair of EK rads, 480 and 360. Couple 90s on the bottom rad. Those are the only tight turns.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> You can see it above. All EK blocks. GPUs in parallel and a pair of EK rads, 480 and 360. Couple 90s on the bottom rad. Those are the only tight turns.


Looks like 1 pump? I probably would go 5, honestly. If you have 2 pump, you may be able to do 4 or even 3


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looks like 1 pump? I probably would go 5, honestly. If you have 2 pump, you may be able to do 4 or even 3


Fluis seems to be hauling some tail.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

All done. Looking good so far.


----------



## 414347

You guys are killing me with colors of those fluids, what a difference in aesthetics


----------



## bigporl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> All done. Looking good so far.


Is that an EK pump top?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Is that an EK pump top?


No. Its a BP one inhave had forever. It works, so no real reason to get rid of it. I will most likely not change it till later on.


----------



## bigporl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> No. Its a BP one inhave had forever. It works, so no real reason to get rid of it. I will most likely not change it till later on.


I'm asking because it may be different for your but usually the hole in the middle is the inlet which is usually from the reservoir and the one on top the outlet.


----------



## Millerboy3

Leak Testing


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> I'm asking because it may be different for your but usually the hole in the middle is the inlet which is usually from the reservoir and the one on top the outlet.


The BP has two on the front. The one in the middle is inlet. The outlet i am using is offset. You can see the plug on the inlet hole in the pic. There are two more on the bottom side. Technically the top is upside down. It just worked better for me this way.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Millerboy3*
> 
> Leak Testing


Looking good. A red backplate on the gpu would make a great addition


----------



## Millerboy3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looking good. A red backplate on the gpu would make a great addition


'

Good idea, I think I'll give coldzero a call


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Millerboy3*
> 
> '
> 
> Good idea, I think I'll give coldzero a call


Awesome. They do excellent work


----------



## Mayhem

A glass build we've been working on.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> A glass build we've been working on.


Looking good so far. What flavor of fluid is going in?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Would a drop or two of deep red into my Aurora red enhance the contrast between the coolant and the particals? I have some left from my last toop.


----------



## Mayhem

a pure real silver nano tube fluid i've made as a one off. (not for sale).


----------



## bigporl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> The BP has two on the front. The one in the middle is inlet. The outlet i am using is offset. You can see the plug on the inlet hole in the pic. There are two more on the bottom side. Technically the top is upside down. It just worked better for me this way.


Apologies


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigporl*
> 
> Apologies


Nothing to apologize for. Was just telling you how the top works.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> were working with idc on a new formula we've already got interesting results back from our in lab testing and it will aid us in creating a more PH stable formula that's not so iffy with ph imbalances don't forget we cannot fix bad rads only help clean them. Mayhems Havoc doesn't have this issue and right now its really cheap.


i used blitz to clean my xspc rad and ph was perfect around 6.9 - 7.0 after cleaning.
After 5 month the white pastel its turning in light grey color color and red pastel turned purple .
Maybe its the white darkside led stripes that cause this.


----------



## pompss

aurora 2 its still sticking in the hard tube.?? its there any solution so far to avoid it ?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> a pure real silver nano tube fluid i've made as a one off. (not for sale).


Can't wait to see it tho


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> a pure real silver nano tube fluid i've made as a one off. (not for sale).


It's good to be the King!


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quick vid I slapped together.


----------



## DNMock

Quick question just to verify:

Forrest green would be start with green coolant then add a bit of red until the desired color is reached correct?


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Quick vid I slapped together.


Nice rig.
I try aurora and aurora 2 in my previous rigs. The coolant Looks amazing but the silver nano particells will stick soon or later .
Prepare to flush it in a 3-4 month since the nano cell will stick in the tube and make the tube yellow and you have to change it.
Maybe the only way to avoid this is to let the PC run 24/7 or let only the pump running 24/7 without stopping

Same issue with hard tubing the nano cells will stick and yellow the tubing no matter what tubing you use.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Nice rig.
> I try aurora and aurora 2 in my previous rigs. The coolant Looks amazing but the silver nano particells will stick soon or later .
> Prepare to flush it in a 3-4 month since the nano cell will stick in the tube and make the tube yellow and you have to change it.
> Maybe the only way to avoid this is to let the PC run 24/7 or let only the pump running 24/7 without stopping
> 
> Same issue with hard tubing the nano cells will stick and yellow the tubing no matter what tubing you use.


Not a big deal. Will be making upgrades in about six months anyway.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Not a big deal. Will be making upgrades in about six months anyway.


i wish i had the time








Im Doing a new Rig and i was thinking to do oil black mayhems with gold aurora booster but i will not have the time to flush and bend tubing again in 4 months.
I will go with red pastel

Here my build log Phantom Dust


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> i wish i had the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im Doing a new Rig and i was thinking to do oil black mayhems with gold aurora booster but i will not have the time to flush and bend tubing again in 4 months.
> I will go with red pastel
> 
> Here my build log Phantom Dust


Thats why i like soft tubing. A lot less time. Like inhave said before, looks cool but a pain to live with.


----------



## Nichismo

really impressed with the solid black now that Mayhems is making, great job.

oh, and once you actually use crystal link or acrylic tubing, youll never go back..


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> really impressed with the solid black now that Mayhems is making, great job.
> 
> oh, and once you actually use crystal link or acrylic tubing, youll never go back..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build! I like the green a lot


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quick question for those that are more knowledgeable on the subject. I have a monsoon res with the two silver bullet plugs in it. Will these play nice with Mayhems Pastels?


----------



## Mayhem

Yes they do. we have 2 of them never had an issue at all how ever you do not need them.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> really impressed with the solid black now that Mayhems is making, great job.
> 
> oh, and once you actually use crystal link or acrylic tubing, youll never go back..


Nice next time try glass







then you'll never need to go anywhere else ever hahaha.


----------



## MadPolygon

Just a question:

Is it safe to mix mayhems dye (like deep red) with aquacomputers double protect ultra?


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes they do. we have 2 of them never had an issue at all how ever you do not need them.


Thank you for the fast response! They're the only extra plugs I have at the moment so they'll have to do!


----------



## Mayhem

Nearly done just a few more tweaks need doing. Had to remove one of the glass bends as we found out that the CPU / GPU ports are 2mm out from each other so we had to use straight runs instead. Over all though we only used 2 peace of glass tubing. The real Silver metal Fluid look more silver in life but will have to do some better shots later on.





This is a world first ever Silver nano tube liquid cooled pc using glass tubing supported by EKWB, In-Win, Intel, MSI and Overclockers UK. Its a One off build to show we can make a real precious metal cooled PC. The fluid is not for sale.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Nearly done just a few more tweaks need doing. Had to remove one of the glass bends as we found out that the CPU / GPU ports are 2mm out from each other so we had to use straight runs instead. Over all though we only used 2 peace of glass tubing. The real Silver metal Fluid look more silver in life but will have to do some better shots later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a world first ever Silver nano tube liquid cooled pc using glass tubing supported by EKWB, In-Win, Intel, MSI and Overclockers UK. Its a One off build to show we can make a real precious metal cooled PC. The fluid is not for sale.


Looks sweet tho


----------



## silent54

I'm moving from a single loop to a dual loop running Pastel Ice White and Pastel Blue Berry. I've been gathering materials for 6-7 months now and of course over time one comes up new ideas and changes directions. I didn't plan on having any UV reactive lines but I'm considering it. I'm pretty sure this was asked already but can't find the exact page again. As I've already purchaced my coolant, is it possible to make both coolant colors UV reactive. I did see a post stating it's possible for the Ice White (a good bit of UV clear blue) but what about the Blue Berry? If so, how much and what type of UV dye are we talking per liter? Thanks


----------



## n00bz1LLa

Hi everybody! Hopefully a quick question about Mayhems XT-1(XT-1 clear concentrate in my case) that I haven't seen covered. I just received a couple bottles of Mayhems XT-1 concentrate for my new loop which I just planned to use as a biocide/corrosion inhibitor. My loop will have an acrylic bay reservoir, acetel/nickel/copper blocks, and copper rads. Since I ordered it, I've seen posts implying that ethelyn glycol is damaging to acrylics(possibly only in certain percentages/mixtures?) . My question: Does anyone have experience with acrylic and Mayhems XT-1 concentrate and should I be worried about my acrylic res deteriorating if I use it? Thanks!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silent54*
> 
> I'm moving from a single loop to a dual loop running Pastel Ice White and Pastel Blue Berry. I've been gathering materials for 6-7 months now and of course over time one comes up new ideas and changes directions. I didn't plan on having any UV reactive lines but I'm considering it. I'm pretty sure this was asked already but can't find the exact page again. As I've already purchaced my coolant, is it possible to make both coolant colors UV reactive. I did see a post stating it's possible for the Ice White (a good bit of UV clear blue) but what about the Blue Berry? If so, how much and what type of UV dye are we talking per liter? Thanks


UV clear blue will work for the blue berry as well. It'll take a decent amount of dye to get a solid blue reaction, but it'll get there. With UV, it's always a good idea to keep some extra UV dye around as the effect fades over time and you'll want to add a little bit to bring the effect back.


----------



## silent54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> UV clear blue will work for the blue berry as well. It'll take a decent amount of dye to get a solid blue reaction, but it'll get there. With UV, it's always a good idea to keep some extra UV dye around as the effect fades over time and you'll want to add a little bit to bring the effect back.


So, there's no telling how many of the 15ml clear UV blue bottles I'll need for 1lt? Also as I'm sure I know the answer, will this change the color of the coolants when not under UV light? I'm assuming not but thought I would ask. Thanks


----------



## Juggalo23451

Is there a u/v orange dye or coolant available by chance? If so this would go perfect with the X99 Soc champion I am planning to do


----------



## Mayhem

we do a UV orange how ever it cannot be mixed with dyes or pastel and its what we consider to be toxic . We personally do not recommend users use it.


----------



## Juggalo23451

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> we do a UV orange how ever it cannot be mixed with dyes or pastel and its what we consider to be toxic . We personally do not recommend users use it.


That would be fine I dont plan one mixing with any other dyes. I would just use the coolant that is u/v or the dye that is u/v with distilled water and silver coil or pt nuke.


----------



## bigboy678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> This is a world first ever Silver nano tube liquid cooled pc using glass tubing supported by EKWB, In-Win, Intel, MSI and Overclockers UK. Its a One off build to show we can make a real precious metal cooled PC. The fluid is not for sale.


I was wondering what the cooling performance of the nano silver is vs say regular distilled water


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigboy678*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> This is a world first ever Silver nano tube liquid cooled pc using glass tubing supported by EKWB, In-Win, Intel, MSI and Overclockers UK. Its a One off build to show we can make a real precious metal cooled PC. The fluid is not for sale.
> 
> 
> 
> I was wondering what the cooling performance of the nano silver is vs say regular distilled water
Click to expand...

Were being asked that by many ppl and companies how ever we will await full testing as the build isn't even complete yet







. But off the record ... well im impressed. That's all i can say.

@Juggalo23451 take it to PMs ill help you out.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looks sweet tho


Liquid Mercury would look better...


----------



## DNMock

So probably a bit late getting to the party here after reading the extreme rigs review of Mick's glass tubes.

As a recommendation, instead of getting a tool and doing the score and snap approach, borrow a wet tile saw from someone, or just go rent one from Home depot. A decent one runs about 50 bucks for a day.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> So probably a bit late getting to the party here after reading the extreme rigs review of Mick's glass tubes.
> 
> As a recommendation, instead of getting a tool and doing the score and snap approach, borrow a wet tile saw from someone, or just go rent one from Home depot. A decent one runs about 50 bucks for a day.


Good idea as we did that and also used a belt sander for chamfering the tubes. With a belt sander we made each tube ready in less then 1 min.


----------



## rsvette12

I bought UV white pastel my question is do I need uv additive or does the pastel white all ready have UV in it as the name states - I bought uv additive but just noticed this - thank you


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsvette12*
> 
> I bought UV white pastel my question is do I need uv additive or does the pastel white all ready have UV in it as the name states - I bought uv additive but just noticed this - thank you


It already will be UV reactive. However, it's a good idea to have the extra UV dye as UV effects fade over time, so you can give the effect a boost with the extra dye you have


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It already will be UV reactive. However, it's a good idea to have the extra UV dye as UV effects fade over time, so you can give the effect a boost with the extra dye you have


Thanks Brother


----------



## ivoryg37

What is in mayhem x1? Is it same to use with PETG tubing?


----------



## Mayhem

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/files/msds-sheets/X1/1ltr/X1-Clear-1-Ltr-SDS.pdf

Yes it safe with Pteg.


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/files/msds-sheets/X1/1ltr/X1-Clear-1-Ltr-SDS.pdf
> 
> Yes it safe with Pteg.


Which is what I am using


----------



## Nichismo

Not sure why, but the Green here is so darn vibrant in the pictures, its alot more subtle and a has a slight mint undertone to it, but I am just loving these colors.... Especially the black, it really just looks amazing. People always ask me where or what I do for the stunning coolant colors in my PC. Its something I always enjoy discussing, mentioning how I mixed different dyes and such and how I have these fancy concentrates that were concocted overseas and shipped to me..... always adds to the boutique and custom vibe of the machine


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Nearly done just a few more tweaks need doing. Had to remove one of the glass bends as we found out that the CPU / GPU ports are 2mm out from each other so we had to use straight runs instead. Over all though we only used 2 peace of glass tubing. The real Silver metal Fluid look more silver in life but will have to do some better shots later on.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a world first ever Silver nano tube liquid cooled pc using glass tubing supported by EKWB, In-Win, Intel, MSI and Overclockers UK. Its a One off build to show we can make a real precious metal cooled PC. The fluid is not for sale.


Wondering if Bitspower's Off-Center Block would have helped in the 2mm misalignment?
Just rotate it around the CPU port's axis until it's aligned.


----------



## Mayhem

We sponsored by EK and they are our partners so were trying to stick to Ek products how ever we have fitted alternative fittings (fittings other than Eks), Some are chinese oem, some are BP ect ect. The long glass bend peace is not perfect so were going to look at replacing that with two straights and a BP bend. The BP off center block well it looks ugly but good idea though.



Above is a bad photo but you can see were we are heading with this.


----------



## Mayhem

Nano tests complete on our new system.



Must say im feeling pretty dammed chuffed.


----------



## 7akata

Doing big things Mick! Is there any consumer side future for the new silver nano-liquid?


----------



## Mayhem

Atm not relay unless we could go into mass production. We have seen an improvement in cooling ability but it would not justify the price hike.

We do not think you could use it any thing other than a glass system as it would get stuck on plastic tubing and cause issues. This is more over a one off coolant for the moment and maybe a glimpse into the future also its good to be first there.


----------



## Mayhem

Just for the gigles Mayhems Mini lab




This is were the fun happens and the issues are sorted. No second guessing going on here.......

Cannot show much more than this as it would give away too much of the game.


----------



## 7akata

Looks like some blood testing facility!


----------



## minh2134

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Not sure why, but the Green here is so darn vibrant in the pictures, its alot more subtle and a has a slight mint undertone to it, but I am just loving these colors.... Especially the black, it really just looks amazing. People always ask me where or what I do for the stunning coolant colors in my PC. Its something I always enjoy discussing, mentioning how I mixed different dyes and such and how I have these fancy concentrates that were concocted overseas and shipped to me..... always adds to the boutique and custom vibe of the machine


That's look so darn cool Nichismo







. Did you used green pastel on that one? I wonder how it look when in the dark?


----------



## Fickle Pickle

Is xt-1 safe to use with standard tubing such as Primochill Advance LRT?

It isn't going to eat through it or anything right?


----------



## DarthBaggins

PrimoChill Advanced tubing is one of the Mayhems approved tubing companies


----------



## jodybdesigns

My White PrimoChill Advanced tubing is turning pink.

And you can see it from the outside. It is getting bad. But my water is crystal clear. Running a Mayhems silver coil and 100% distilled. Fantomex in sig rig. I don't know what is doing it but I am going to point my finger to the 90 Degree Alphacool fitting.


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fickle Pickle*
> 
> Is xt-1 safe to use with standard tubing such as Primochill Advance LRT?
> 
> It isn't going to eat through it or anything right?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> PrimoChill Advanced tubing is one of the Mayhems approved tubing companies


Note that he is planning on using XT-1 though which contains Ethylene Glycol which Primochill does not recommend to be used with their tubing and voids any warranty.


----------



## MadPolygon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPolygon*
> 
> Just a question:
> 
> Is it safe to mix mayhems dye (like deep red) with aquacomputers double protect ultra?


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPolygon*


I have run this with Mayhem blood red dye for a year and it works perfectly. I have cleaned the rads properly though.


----------



## MadPolygon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I have run this with Mayhem blood red dye for a year and it works perfectly. I have cleaned the rads properly though.


Thank you.

Well you should always clean your rads ^^

Did you use PETG or soft tubing? Because I'm wondering if DP Ultra is safe with PETG tubing.


----------



## Domiro

Using a Gigabyte Z87X OC Force board and i'd like to get orange pastel as close as possible. I've already got (Mayhems) Orange dye.

Am I better off using white pastel and then orange dye or is the orange pastel close enough to the board's orange already?


----------



## tipes

Personally I think the mayhems orange is near enough already, but you really need to see some accurate pics of it in a rig to be sure. Even if the standard orange is not quite what you desire you can always tweak it to your liking, but do so outside of the cooling system, and providing your rads etc are all clean it should be fine.


----------



## Domiro

What pictures I can take probably won't be worth much. Cameras and phones with decent cameras are the one thing I don't care for (yet).

What dye would I need beyond the orange one to tweak pastel white? I've seen yellow/red mentioned in the thread.


----------



## ivoryg37

I want to top my reservoir off but don't want to purchase a second bottle of mayhem pastel. Would the coolant still work if I top it off with more distill water? 1 liter wasn't enough for my rig and I have a little bit more needed


----------



## Deedaz

You should probably just go ahead and buy another bottle. You will need to top it off every so often anyway so you may as well do it right from the start.


----------



## Eudisld15

I love these bright vibrant colors!


----------



## cyphon

Mayhem, to match the heatsinks, you think sunset yellow with a touch of red dye will do it?


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Mayhem, to match the heatsinks, you think sunset yellow with a touch of red dye will do it?
> 
> That sound about right - nice rig you might need just a tad of blue to go with it - you will have to experiment


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I want to top my reservoir off but don't want to purchase a second bottle of mayhem pastel. Would the coolant still work if I top it off with more distill water? 1 liter wasn't enough for my rig and I have a little bit more needed


Last time I checked should be no problem. The nano particles may fall out of suspension faster. Judging by the picture, you have enough coolant for the time being. Better order another bottle & make another 1ltr of coolant. You will need the extra coolant anyway.


----------



## russ18uk

Well you're looking pretty pathetic Mayhem.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Last time I checked should be no problem. The nano particles may fall out of suspension faster. Judging by the picture, you have enough coolant for the time being. Better order another bottle & make another 1ltr of coolant. You will need the extra coolant anyway.


Anyone know what red and white pastel makes when mixed together? I have a brand new bottle of red pastel that I haven't used. Might consider topping off my system with it instead of buying more white for the time being.


----------



## Arkheios

What's with all this JayzTwoCents and OC3D drama about the miscoloration of the fluids?

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYwgjwUfRaQ
Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMeVKSrVqRQ&feature=youtu.be&t=1209

*Edit:* Might as well add that I have two ~7 months old loops with Mayhem's Pastel Ice White. The loop (CPU loop) with Alphacool UT60 480 radiator has turned very distinctly greyish.
The second loop (GPU loop) with HWLabs 480 SR1 has stayed its original color.

Both radiators have been flushed, and cleaned the exact same way. The CPU loop has a D5 pump + EK CPU block.
The GPU loop has a DDC 18w 1Plus pump and an EK Titan X block.
Both loops have the same tubing too (Primochill).


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arkheios*
> 
> What's with all this JayzTwoCents and OC3D drama about the miscoloration of the fluids?
> 
> Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYwgjwUfRaQ
> Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMeVKSrVqRQ&feature=youtu.be&t=1209
> 
> *Edit:* Might as well add that I have two ~7 months old loops with Mayhem's Pastel Ice White. The loop (CPU loop) with Alphacool UT60 480 radiator has turned very distinctly greyish.
> The second loop (GPU loop) with HWLabs 480 SR1 has stayed its original color.
> 
> Both radiators have been flushed, and cleaned the exact same way. The CPU loop has a D5 pump + EK CPU block.
> The GPU loop has a DDC 18w 1Plus pump and an EK Titan X block.
> Both loops have the same tubing too (Primochill).


Jayztwocents latest video explains it all pretty well if you ask me


----------



## StuttgartRob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arkheios*
> 
> What's with all this JayzTwoCents and OC3D drama about the miscoloration of the fluids?
> 
> Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYwgjwUfRaQ
> Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMeVKSrVqRQ&feature=youtu.be&t=1209
> 
> *Edit:* Might as well add that I have two ~7 months old loops with Mayhem's Pastel Ice White. The loop (CPU loop) with Alphacool UT60 480 radiator has turned very distinctly greyish.
> The second loop (GPU loop) with HWLabs 480 SR1 has stayed its original color.
> 
> Both radiators have been flushed, and cleaned the exact same way. The CPU loop has a D5 pump + EK CPU block.
> The GPU loop has a DDC 18w 1Plus pump and an EK Titan X block.
> Both loops have the same tubing too (Primochill).


I didn't pay any attention to his personal comments on the Coolants.

I only flushed my system a few times with Distilled and never used the Mayhems Cleaning system and have had zero problems in 8 months with my pastel.

I have started taking it apart to change fluid colors and haven't noticed any problems that he showed in that video.


----------



## Mayhem

I (Mick of Mayhems) sincerely apologise publicly to Jason Langevin (JZ2Cents), Jerry Berg for the out bust on social media. Mayhems support has always strived towards consumer’s satisfaction, however this time I have let the team down. I will relinquish PR and support to our new representative who will now deal all matters pertaining to support and social Media. All social media accounts and Mayhems forum aliases will be handled by our representative whom will introduce them self in the New Year once we have everything in place.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I (Mick of Mayhems) sincerely apologise publicly to Jay (JZ2Cents) for the out bust on social media. Mayhems support has always strived towards consumer's satisfaction, however this time I have let the team down. I will relinquish PR and support to our new representative who will now deal all matters pertaining to support and social Media. All social media accounts and Mayhems forum aliases will be handled by our representative whom will introduce them self in the New Year once we have everything in place.


Got to say Mick, I dunno if you were drinking when you put them both on blast or what but to get the community back on your side, you're going to have to change. I like Jay and I like you guys too but both of you look bad from all of this.

Completely unimpressed by both sides.


----------



## kot0005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Can it just be noted that most the time Mayhems has replaced products out of their own pockets and worked with people before to correct issues, this isn't a total representation of their customer support just one of many cases. I don't think it's fair to just use this as a prime example of their complete customer package when this isn't always the case.
> 
> Mick is a human being, not a robot.


well its their job to to fix broken stuff with their money or not sell broken products at all. Robots are better than humans because they don't tell people to die.


----------



## Oj010

If the same batch of the same coolant is used in two different loops and one changes colour, what can it be other than something in the colour changing loop, be in the blocks, pump, rads or res, tainting the colour? I'm curious to know what it could be.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kot0005*
> 
> well its their job to to fix broken stuff with their money or not sell broken products at all. Robots are better than humans because they don't tell people to die.


I'm sorry for my ignorance but I never read Mayhems telling anyone to die? There have been times where the user didn't read instructions and failed to make their system pH neutral which funked up the fluid they were using, instead of saying "user error, no warranty issued, unlucky" Mick sent out replacement coolant. Sorry but you might be mad because of a small unprofessional side of Mick but in the larger spectrum of things, Mayhems makes a good product and most of the time have a very good customer service.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kot0005*
> 
> well its their job to to fix broken stuff with their money or not sell broken products at all. Robots are better than humans because they don't tell people to die.


That's another person not related to the company at all talking on a personal Facebook profile, come on now.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kot0005*
> 
> Mayhems trash talk about Jayz and his friend, telling your customer to 'Die' and calling someone 'fat' is just pathetic form of you. Your social media talk shows that you people run this company on drugs.
> 
> Lucky your company isn't in Australia or I'd have personally filed a complaint with the consumer affairs and the police for harassment and death threats.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shame on you mayhems. Never used your products before but I will never again nor will I recommend them.


Lol, YouTube as a career takes a lot of time and effort. Jay clearly puts many hours into his videos so just because someone has a career making videos for YouTube doesn't mean it's not a real job, probably makes more than loads of people. So if I can make loads of money "Not having a job or skills" sign me up!

That being said my pastel blue has been going strong for like 8 months strong.


----------



## fisher6

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eudisld15*
> 
> I love these bright vibrant colors!






Looks amazing. What coolant/mix are you using? Any UV leds?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I (Mick of Mayhems) sincerely apologise publicly to Jay (JZ2Cents) for the out bust on social media. Mayhems support has always strived towards consumer's satisfaction, however this time I have let the team down. I will relinquish PR and support to our new representative who will now deal all matters pertaining to support and social Media. All social media accounts and Mayhems forum aliases will be handled by our representative whom will introduce them self in the New Year once we have everything in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Got to say Mick, I dunno if you were drinking when you put them both on blast or what but to get the community back on your side, you're going to have to change. I like Jay and I like you guys too but both of you look bad from all of this.
> 
> Completely unimpressed by both sides.
Click to expand...

You are not wrong and yes id had a drink but to be honest that is not the point and is no excuse what so ever. We should have got a PR person in a long time ago as my PR is not the best at times.I may be able to play with coolants and improve on them how ever my social media skills are very much out dated.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You are not wrong and yes id had a drink but to be honest that is not the point and is no excuse what so ever. We should have got a PR person in a long time ago as my PR is not the best at times.I may be able to play with coolants and improve on them how ever my social media skills are very much out dated.


Beef is beef. Handle it as such. Won't stop me from ordering pastel, I can assure you that.

TCO


----------



## Arkheios

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You are not wrong and yes id had a drink but to be honest that is not the point and is no excuse what so ever. We should have got a PR person in a long time ago as my PR is not the best at times.I may be able to play with coolants and improve on them how ever my social media skills are very much out dated.


Make sure to voice your regrets/excuses to the people with PR who will impact your sales. OC3D too, as my understanding is that team also feels let down.


----------



## M3TAl

Woah. What's going on in these parts? No idea because I don't really follow YouTubers or social media, at all.

True Mick flys off the handle sometimes but I've always accepted that as it is. Mick is a "mad scientist" not a marketing/PR person. True they should of had a PR person for some time but I still enjoy reading Mick's comments. That's because instead of "PR talk" Mick offers "real talk" and insider information/technical details. Not many other companies offer inside information like that.

I fear without Mick offering any comments/info whatsoever Mayhems will start to look just like every other company out there.


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Woah. What's going on in these parts? No idea because I don't really follow YouTubers or social media, at all.
> 
> True Mick flys off the handle sometimes but I've always accepted that as it is. Mick is a "mad scientist" not a marketing/PR person. True they should of had a PR person for some time but I still enjoy reading Mick's comments. That's because instead of "PR talk" Mick offers "real talk" and insider information/technical details. Not many other companies offer inside information like that.
> 
> I fear without Mick offering any comments/info whatsoever Mayhems will start to look just like every other company out there.


Have to agree here, sometimes people get rubbed the wrong way when they're given very direct and no BS comments. I read it all, wouldn't make me lose any sleep at night; Though I've also never had any problems with his products changing colors.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Woah. What's going on in these parts? No idea because I don't really follow YouTubers or social media, at all.
> 
> True Mick flys off the handle sometimes but I've always accepted that as it is. Mick is a "mad scientist" not a marketing/PR person. True they should of had a PR person for some time but I still enjoy reading Mick's comments. That's because instead of "PR talk" Mick offers "real talk" and insider information/technical details. Not many other companies offer inside information like that.
> 
> I fear without Mick offering any comments/info whatsoever Mayhems will start to look just like every other company out there.


Yeah. Not many places where you have the opportunity to talk to the #1 guy in charge.


----------



## emsj86

I would just like to know exactly what causes the change. There is really no one common factor but seems more random when it does. I like the pastel. But interested to see the actual problem solved. When I say problem I'm not saying the product is bad but in sure everyone would like to know as to prevent it happening


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> Have to agree here, sometimes people get rubbed the wrong way when they're given very direct and no BS comments. I read it all, wouldn't make me lose any sleep at night; Though I've also never had any problems with his products changing colors.


I have. Orange pastel, and the Green pastel in particular.

Usually do a great flush and try again. No Biggie for me.

TCO


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have. Orange pastel, and the Green pastel in particular.
> 
> Usually do a great flush and try again. No Biggie for me.
> 
> TCO


Guess I should caveat, I only use purple pastel and Aurora 2







I agree though, clean it up, reflush, re apply.


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *russ18uk*
> 
> Well you're looking pretty pathetic Mayhem.


Not sure why you would say this. There is a good possibility that this was a "Jay" problem. He has stated in the past that hes used tap water to clean radiators now hes stating he used the blitz?
Yet day after day people use pastel with no issues.

In Jay's latest video he opened up the possibility of how it could have been a number of things. A bad batch, his rad, his tubing, the cards themselves.....who knows.
This is the position he should have started this conversation with.
Although he didn't say it was Mayhem's fault in the first video, he implied it and danced around that implication.
In short, he did all but suggest it was his fault. I would say that Mayhems attempt to contact him and right this matter was pretty awesome.

Mayhem's reaction? Completely understandable. If I were a youtube personality and got called out by a company after I misused or even failed to read a label, what footing would I have to say anything?

"But....but....they were meanies". Sorry but customers are NOT ALWAYS right. This is a symptom of our current culture. I dont need smiles at the mcdonalds drive though. I don't need a walmart greeter. And I don't need a balloon at the dentist.

This whole thing has been blown completely out of proportion. What gets me is that people will blindly follow and hurt this companies sales and thats rather sad. The truth is, this is the best coolant company on the market and I will continue to use their stuff. If I mess something up, I welcome the criticism. But then again, I don't have a youtube channel that depends on me always being right.


----------



## rsvette12

Hi Guys:

Bit concerned as I have two separate EK pumps setup one for CPU and one for GPU spent a long time building this new rig and getting close to adding Pastel UV White with mostly blue dye and a tad of red - a little confused about future problems any feedback if I will be ok would be appreciated - thanks

Also I am using PETG throughout no flexible tubing


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> Not sure why you would say this. There is a good possibility that this was a "Jay" problem. He has stated in the past that hes used tap water to clean radiators now hes stating he used the blitz?
> Yet day after day people use pastel with no issues.
> 
> In Jay's latest video he opened up the possibility of how it could have been a number of things. A bad batch, his rad, his tubing, the cards themselves.....who knows.
> This is the position he should have started this conversation with.
> Although he didn't say it was Mayhem's fault in the first video, he implied it and danced around that implication.
> In short, he did all but suggest it was his fault. I would say that Mayhems attempt to contact him and right this matter was pretty awesome.
> 
> Mayhem's reaction? Completely understandable. If I were a youtube personality and got called out by a company after I misused or even failed to read a label, what footing would I have to say anything?
> 
> "But....but....they were meanies". Sorry but customers are NOT ALWAYS right. This is a symptom of our current culture. I dont need smiles at the mcdonalds drive though. I don't need a walmart greeter. And I don't need a balloon at the dentist.
> 
> This whole thing has been blown completely out of proportion. What gets me is that people will blindly follow and hurt this companies sales and thats rather sad. The truth is, this is the best coolant company on the market and I will continue to use their stuff. If I mess something up, I welcome the criticism. But then again, I don't have a youtube channel that depends on me always being right.


Hopefully you don't take this in the wrong way but your coming off on the complete other side as if only one side is right. Personally I'm nuertral and like mayhems products but I see both sides and things could have been done differently on both sides


----------



## theonedub

I thought it was strange that the Unsatisfactory Mayhems Customer Service thread I made @ TPU last year got bumped last night and now has over 20,000 views, but J2C linked it in his video as another example of the unprofessional service provided by the company.

It's about time the customer service 'experience' gets overhauled at Mayhems. The condescending, customer blaming attitude when it comes to support has been an ongoing problem and it's a shame that it took being exposed on social media by someone with ~500,000 subscribers for any change to be made.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I thought it was strange that the Unsatisfactory Mayhems Customer Service thread I made @ TPU last year got bumped last night and now has over 20,000 views, but J2C linked it in his video as another example of the unprofessional service provided by the company.
> 
> It's about time the customer service 'experience' gets overhauled at Mayhems. The condescending, customer blaming attitude when it comes to support has been an ongoing problem and it's a shame that it took being exposed on social media by someone with ~500,000 subscribers for any change to be made.


One change I'd like to see is in addition to stating this info (as they already do): "The system must be clean and have no chemicals of any kind left in the loop. There must be an absence of bleach, biocide and anti corrosive inhibitors. We recommend you flush your system with either DI water or Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 before use." adding something about how many radiators are "dirty" and must be cleaned because the flux will create a pH imbalance and change the color of the fluid. Probably most people don't even read that and if they do they figure "parts are brand new, they must be clean and free of chemicals" without understanding that chemicals (flux) are used for metal joining in a lot of radiators.


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Hopefully you don't take this in the wrong way but your coming off on the complete other side as if only one side is right. Personally I'm nuertral and like mayhems products but I see both sides and things could have been done differently on both sides


No worries at all.
I just find this very irritating. Most of us don't have sponsorships. We don't get free video cards or waterblocks. And we don't get to edit out our mistakes when we make them.
We buy this stuff out of our own pockets and when we make mistakes, we eat them, not hint that others are to blame.

Also, nobody, in any business or otherwise, is under any obligation to be nice to any of us. We feel that we are entitled to smiles and pandering. We arent.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> One change I'd like to see is in addition to stating this info (as they already do): "The system must be clean and have no chemicals of any kind left in the loop. There must be an absence of bleach, biocide and anti corrosive inhibitors. We recommend you flush your system with either DI water or Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 before use." adding something about how many radiators are "dirty" and must be cleaned because the flux will create a pH imbalance and change the color of the fluid. Probably most people don't even read that and if they do they figure "parts are brand new, they must be clean and free of chemicals" without understanding that chemicals (flux) are used for metal joining in a lot of radiators.


Exactly. I'm going to sound like a broken record, but you would think that if pH was that big an issue they would have mentioned it on the label or in the instructions.

The original Pastels label doesn't mention anything aside from what you quoted. What's odd is that the first revision to the Pastel label actually recommends using a Blitz kit. That's right, instead of educating the customer about the pH sensitivity of the coolant- they instead updated the label with a focus on pitching another one of their products at you. I don't know what the newest bottle and label says, but it's something to see them take the time to update the label to sell you another product but not inform you about the sensitivity to pH that wrecks the aesthetic appeal of the product you just paid for.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I'm going to sound like a broken record, but you would think that if pH was that big an issue they would have mentioned it on the label or in the instructions.
> 
> The original Pastels label doesn't mention anything aside from what you quoted. What's odd is that the first revision to the Pastel label actually recommends using a Blitz kit. That's right, instead of educating the customer about the pH sensitivity of the coolant- they instead updated the label with a focus on pitching another one of their products at you. I don't know what the newest bottle and label says, but it's something to see them take the time to update the label to sell you another product but not inform you about the sensitivity to pH that wrecks the aesthetic appeal of the product you just paid for.


Well, in a sense they do: "The system must be clean and have no chemicals of any kind left in the loop." Chemicals = flux which can change the pH causing the fluid to discolor. Perhaps it needs to be totally noob friendly or radiator manufacturers have to stop sucking.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Hopefully you don't take this in the wrong way but your coming off on the complete other side as if only one side is right. Personally I'm nuertral and like mayhems products but I see both sides and things could have been done differently on both sides


This is accurate, both sides look really unprofessional. Jay shouldn't have posted screenshots and links to further rally the mob, but instead taken the matter to private messages and Mick should have done the same...

All this public social media bickering is childish, uncalled for and completely unprofessional.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I thought it was strange that the Unsatisfactory Mayhems Customer Service thread I made @ TPU last year got bumped last night and now has over 20,000 views, but J2C linked it in his video as another example of the unprofessional service provided by the company.
> 
> It's about time the customer service 'experience' gets overhauled at Mayhems. The condescending, customer blaming attitude when it comes to support has been an ongoing problem and it's a shame that it took being exposed on social media by someone with ~500,000 subscribers for any change to be made.


This may also be a matter of culture. Both Mic and a programmer that does an alternative code for Corsair Link are from the UK, and both can seem a bit condescending sometimes but I doubt their intention is to make users feel like idiots. It may also be as others have stated, that these guys are scientists and not inclined to be politically correct (which personally, I think is way overrated these days). Whatever people's opinions are, my two cents is that these guys shine in terms of their technical understanding of their product and help us users in the best way they know how. I haven't had any problems with my Pastels so far but I feel confident that if I did, Mic would try to fix it as I've seen him do time and time again.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> This is accurate, both sides look really unprofessional. Jay shouldn't have posted screenshots and links to further rally the mob, but instead taken the matter to private messages and Mick should have done the same...
> 
> All this public social media bickering is childish, uncalled for and completely unprofessional.


I feel that if Mic and Jay were to have mobs standing behind them and a fight would break out, Mayhems would win.

TCO


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I feel that if Mic and Jay were to have mobs standing behind them and a fight would break out, Mayhems would win.
> 
> TCO


Go look at the reviews being left on their Facebook page, it's already happening.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Go look at the reviews being left on their Facebook page, it's already happening.


I don't need to. The Publicity off of the feud will produce sales.

TCO


----------



## 1911Savage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> "But....but....they were meanies". Sorry but customers are NOT ALWAYS right. This is a symptom of our current culture. I dont need smiles at the mcdonalds drive though. I don't need a walmart greeter. And I don't need a balloon at the dentist.


Manufacturers are not perfect either.
I posted this in July:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1911Savage*
> 
> Ran into a slight problem today:
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered 3 bottles of Pastel UV Lime Yellow concentrate from Performance PCs. Two of them were like the one on the right, the correct color, but the one on the left seems to be Pastel Sunset Yellow or something even though it is labeled UV Lime Yellow. As it turned out I didn't need the third bottle anyway so it worked out OK:


I was promised a replacement bottle by Mayhems but never received it. No big deal really and I'm certainly not going to tell people to never buy their product because of a mistake like this.

And for the record, I'm using Alphacool radiators that I cleaned only with hot tap water and rinsed with distilled water from Walmart. After I finished the loops I ran distilled through them for a few hours, drained and ran distilled again and then drained and filled with the pastel fluid. So far the pastel is holding its original color.


----------



## Copyright

Well I am about a month in with my setup and so far so good. Cleaned the rads with distilled water only and nothing else.

http://s14.photobucket.com/user/badlilhemi/media/PC Final_zpsdtsmkcxc.jpg.html


----------



## iBruce

Jay opens his hot running video cards to find a curious white powder residue.

nano-particles?

copper salts?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I want to top my reservoir off but don't want to purchase a second bottle of mayhem pastel. Would the coolant still work if I top it off with more distill water? 1 liter wasn't enough for my rig and I have a little bit more needed


I have a huge loop, and I used 3 bottles of ice white. I needed to top mine off, and make up for the few ml I spilt, but instead of opening the 4th bottle, I just topped it off with distilled. I'm not having any major problem, but ive noticed that after a few days of the PC not being turned on, the collant at the top of my two reservoirs look waterdown. I just shake the case, and its fine lol


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> *I have a huge loop*, and I used 3 bottles of ice white. I needed to top mine off, and make up for the few ml I spilt, but instead of opening the 4th bottle, I just topped it off with distilled. I'm not having any major problem, but ive noticed that after a few days of the PC not being turned on, the collant at the top of my two reservoirs look waterdown. I just shake the case, and its fine lol


I'm constructing a short loop [email protected] CPU M8E monoblock only and currently have these Mayhems items in my shopping cart at PPCS.

Keeping it functional and simple.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-system.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-ultra-pure-h2o-5ltr.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-clear-concentrate-250ml.html

...ordered. Go Mayhem.









Also asked PPCS (Hank) to send Jayztwocents (10) orange EK badges for his new Mayhems dye orange transition Skunkworks build, I'm buying.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-badge-orange-5-pcs.html

Mayhem and Jay are both amazing people, we should greatly cherish both of them send them business and not argue so much.









.


----------



## cyphon

Man I seemed to have missed a lot.....

I've had Pastel running in a system 24/7 for 2.5y straight and no issues... That build is EOL and will be torn down shortly.

Numerous other builds with Aurora, Pastel, x1, and dyes, and only 1.5 problem with color change.

The half was my fault, adding dye to a running loop and it went way darker than intended after the dye propagated after running some time...lesson learned.

The other time, i had the red Pastel go purple/brown gross color. This was the only time I've run blitz part 1 and I'm thinking I didn't rinse enough. Run just blitz part 2 other times, no issue


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1911Savage*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> "But....but....they were meanies". Sorry but customers are NOT ALWAYS right. This is a symptom of our current culture. I dont need smiles at the mcdonalds drive though. I don't need a walmart greeter. And I don't need a balloon at the dentist.
> 
> 
> 
> Manufacturers are not perfect either.
> I posted this in July:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *1911Savage*
> 
> Ran into a slight problem today:
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered 3 bottles of Pastel UV Lime Yellow concentrate from Performance PCs. Two of them were like the one on the right, the correct color, but the one on the left seems to be Pastel Sunset Yellow or something even though it is labeled UV Lime Yellow. As it turned out I didn't need the third bottle anyway so it worked out OK:
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was promised a replacement bottle by Mayhems but never received it. No big deal really and I'm certainly not going to tell people to never buy their product because of a mistake like this.
> 
> And for the record, I'm using Alphacool radiators that I cleaned only with hot tap water and rinsed with distilled water from Walmart. After I finished the loops I ran distilled through them for a few hours, drained and ran distilled again and then drained and filled with the pastel fluid. So far the pastel is holding its original color.
Click to expand...

Yeh i know about this we have had an issue with missing post how ever it will be refined soon as we have applied for some documents to be placed on parcels proving the legitimacy of our products so we don't lose as many to costume clearance. I will chase this up with you soon as this is one issue that i have forgotten about sorry, some times i forget to follow stuff up due to demands that are placed on me so apologise on this one and another reason why we need better support / PR person.

As for the banter, tonight me and Jay in Pms have had a good long chat and we are going to look at some possibility of why pastel may be chaining colour under some pretty specific circumstances. Im sending out jay some gear to play with and also some temp probes so we can see if we can find the weak point in either the coolant or the system. We have been working on a new nano coolant that we are just polishing off and looking how we can mass produce to combat some issues we our self have found how ever this is by no means an easy task and still will take some time.

As for PH issues they have and always will be an issue in liquid cooled products this has never changed and we are at the for front of this understanding and we are trying to educate users and manufacturers of this, We give more information on our bottles and in our support than any other company has ever done. This is not to bash other's but may be tip our hats in the direction of how it should be. It not for us to preach nor to teach but to try our damnedest to support as best as we can and help were we can, Liquid cooling is a very specific science with lots of cravats that need to be unfolded one page at a time. We aim to do this and we do it day in day out every day.

At the end of the day how many nano coolants are there out on the market place that have been around as long as IDC and Pastel. Only a few years ago these coolants were being bashed and named as a Snake oil by some parties yet we this not let that stop us from moving on.

I now have a lot of respect for jay after we talked tonight and am glad we got the kick up the ass we received (we as a whole needed it). As for the trolls whom are still attacking us on fb, Pms, Emails, ect ect, well that is not an issue as ive seen it all before and it will still not stop my end goal and helping were i can. I will be backing off from social media over the next few weeks and well as forums and letting my PR put my words into more respectable literature and responses. It will be me still answering the difficult questions and fixing or identifying the difficult problems but at least 90% it can be done direct from our PR guy.

My email we become de funked and every thing will go though PR very soon, so getting into direct contact with me will be literally like going though a firewall so that i can spend more time doing what i do best and that's working hard to make, improve and create new products.

When our PR guy is ready he will introduce him self and then i will be locked out of any accounts bearing the name Mayhem / Mayhems.

I feel like the black night







Cut off my arms and legs and i still will not give up my love and passion for liquid cooling pcs and servers.




Some times liquid cooling is like a whole new sketch scene and all you can do is smile. May be one day i could do a book on some of the funny stuff weve found and come across in all the years as a engineer. BTW im not a chemist as many are calling me, Im one of you. Just because i part own Mayhems doesn't make me any different. Oh im not a CEO, Im British and proud and im employed by Mayhems. "best job in the world".


----------



## kizwan

When I first time using Mayhems Pastel, I'm not aware of the pH sensitivity but I do know that I need to flush my brand new rads properly which I did using tap water, hot water & distilled water. The result? The color doesn't change, it still look like new & vibrant even after one year. Water temp from high 30s to low 40s Clesius because ambient already in the 30s Celsius anyway.


----------



## SteezyTN

The only thing that seems logical as to why Jayz colors are chaning in that one loop has to be because of the amount of heat hes dumping into the loop. I have a huge loop for my two titan X's. at the moment, I don't have the fans on 560 radiator, so my water/coolant temps are reaching 35c. I wouldn't doubt that his water/coolant temps are reaching over 60c due to those overvolted titans.Theres probably a chemical change going on with that amound of heat.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeh i know about this we have had an issue with missing post how ever it will be refined soon as we have applied for some documents to be placed on parcels proving the legitimacy of our products so we don't lose as many to costume clearance. I will chase this up with you soon as this is one issue that i have forgotten about sorry, some times i forget to follow stuff up due to demands that are placed on me so apologise on this one and another reason why we need better support / PR person.
> 
> As for the banter, tonight me and Jay in Pms have had a good long chat and we are going to look at some possibility of why pastel may be chaining colour under some pretty specific circumstances. Im sending out jay some gear to play with and also some temp probes so we can see if we can find the weak point in either the coolant or the system. We have been working on a new nano coolant that we are just polishing off and looking how we can mass produce to combat some issues we our self have found how ever this is by no means an easy task and still will take some time.
> 
> As for PH issues they have and always will be an issue in liquid cooled products this has never changed and we are at the for front of this understanding and we are trying to educate users and manufacturers of this, We give more information on our bottles and in our support than any other company has ever done. This is not to bash other's but may be tip our hats in the direction of how it should be. It not for us to preach nor to teach but to try our damnedest to support as best as we can and help were we can, Liquid cooling is a very specific science with lots of cravats that need to be unfolded one page at a time. We aim to do this and we do it day in day out every day.
> 
> At the end of the day how many nano coolants are there out on the market place that have been around as long as IDC and Pastel. Only a few years ago these coolants were being bashed and named as a Snake oil by some parties yet we this not let that stop us from moving on.
> 
> I now have a lot of respect for jay after we talked tonight and am glad we got the kick up the ass we received (we as a whole needed it). As for the trolls whom are still attacking us on fb, Pms, Emails, ect ect, well that is not an issue as ive seen it all before and it will still not stop my end goal and helping were i can. I will be backing off from social media over the next few weeks and well as forums and letting my PR put my words into more respectable literature and responses. It will be me still answering the difficult questions and fixing or identifying the difficult problems but at least 90% it can be done direct from our PR guy.
> 
> My email we become de funked and every thing will go though PR very soon, so getting into direct contact with me will be literally like going though a firewall so that i can spend more time doing what i do best and that's working hard to make, improve and create new products.
> 
> When our PR guy is ready he will introduce him self and then i will be locked out of any accounts bearing the name Mayhem / Mayhems.
> 
> 
> I feel like the black night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut off my arms and legs and i still will not give up my love and passion for liquid cooling pcs and servers.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some times liquid cooling is like a whole new sketch scene and all you can do is smile. May be one day i could do a book on some of the funny stuff weve found and come across in all the years as a engineer. BTW im not a chemist as many are calling me, Im one of you. Just because i part own Mayhems doesn't make me any different. Oh im not a CEO, Im British and proud and im employed by Mayhems. "best job in the world".


It's just a flesh wound


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> When I first time using Mayhems Pastel, I'm not aware of the pH sensitivity but I do know that I need to flush my brand new rads properly which I did using tap water, hot water & distilled water. The result? *The color doesn't change*, it still look like new & vibrant even after one year. Water temp from high 30s to low 40s Clesius because ambient already in the 30s Celsius anyway.


So both camps should have been in better communication.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> When I first time using Mayhems Pastel, I'm not aware of the pH sensitivity but I do know that I need to flush my brand new rads properly which I did using tap water, hot water & distilled water. The result? The color doesn't change, it still look like new & vibrant even after one year. Water temp from high 30s to low 40s Clesius because ambient already in the 30s Celsius anyway.


Same here. All I did with my rads were flush them out with DI water a few times to get all of the dirt and flux out, then put them in my loop. Pastel green is still unchanged and going strong for over a year at this point.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I'm constructing a short loop [email protected] CPU M8E monoblock only and currently have these Mayhems items in my shopping cart at PPCS.
> 
> Keeping it functional and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-system.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-ultra-pure-h2o-5ltr.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-x1-clear-concentrate-250ml.html
> 
> ...ordered. Go Mayhem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also asked PPCS (Hank) to send Jayztwocents (10) orange EK badges for his new Mayhems dye orange transition Skunkworks build, I'm buying.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-badge-orange-5-pcs.html
> 
> Mayhem and Jay are both amazing people, we should greatly cherish both of them send them business and not argue so much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Sort of has nothing to do with your post but FYI: seen Mayhems products on ModMyMods.com the other day. Nice to have other store options out there (never had a problem with PPCS, yet).


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Sort of has nothing to do with your post but FYI: seen Mayhems products on ModMyMods.com the other day. Nice to have other store options out there (never had a problem with PPCS, yet).


My office is a very convenient 10minute short drive from PPCS, so yea, they have everything Mayhems.

.


----------



## Eudisld15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> 
> Looks amazing. What coolant/mix are you using? Any UV leds?


Sorry for the late response. Straight MAyhem's Green pastel with distilled water. I have a uv led strip in!


----------



## marshymellows

Quick question, what is the chemical name for the acids in blitz Pro kit? Need to know if its safe to pour down the drain in my country


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Quick question, what is the chemical name for the acids in blitz Pro kit? Need to know if its safe to pour down the drain in my country


Phosphoric acid.

Dilute 10:1 and drain it,its the same acid found in coke.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Phosphoric acid.
> 
> Dilute 10:1 and drain it,its the same acid found in coke.


Is it the same acid in both bottles (part 1&2)?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Is it the same acid in both bottles (part 1&2)?


Part 2 is a neutraliser,not an acid.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Part 2 is a neutraliser,not an acid.


oh okay, do you know the name of the neutraliser and if its also safe to pour down the drain?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

ADBAC by the look of it....The full chemical name is not provided.....



ADBAC is not a neutralizer in itself tho,its a surfactant/biocide.......


----------



## Arkheios

Does anyone know if the Mayhem Pastel fluids are "compatible" with the EK PETG tubing and hardline fittings?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I (Mick of Mayhems) sincerely apologise publicly to Jason Langevin (JZ2Cents), Jerry Berg for the out bust on social media. Mayhems support has always strived towards consumer's satisfaction, however this time I have let the team down. I will relinquish PR and support to our new representative who will now deal all matters pertaining to support and social Media. All social media accounts and Mayhems forum aliases will be handled by our representative whom will introduce them self in the New Year once we have everything in place.


Good for you Mick. It takes a man to say they were wrong or out of line or whatever the case may be. Don't over react too much though.
Not everyone is a fan of YouTube egos ... In my experience they as a whole rate only slightly above reddit when it comes to enthusiast knowledge bases.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arkheios*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Mayhem Pastel fluids are "compatible" with the EK PETG tubing and hardline fittings?


EK sell pastel made by Mayhems and the petg without any warnings so it's safe to assume it's fine


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ADBAC by the look of it....The full chemical name is not provided.....
> 
> 
> Ill have to look over the list of chemicals that are not allowed to pour down the drain to see if it matches up with anything. Thanks for the help
> 
> ADBAC is not a neutralizer in itself tho,its a surfactant/biocide.......


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Good for you Mick. It takes a man to say they were wrong or out of line or whatever the case may be. Don't over react too much though.
> *Not everyone is a fan of YouTube egos ... In my experience they as a whole rate only slightly above reddit when it comes to enthusiast knowledge bases.*
> EK sell pastel made by Mayhems and the petg without any warnings so it's safe to assume it's fine












Especially when his background is Phone Reviews......


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Good for you Mick. It takes a man to say they were wrong or out of line or whatever the case may be. Don't over react too much though.
> Not everyone is a fan of YouTube egos ... In my experience they as a whole rate only slightly above reddit when it comes to enthusiast knowledge bases.


^This for sure. I've some of these YouTube guys just spouting off what you read on the manufacturer's website. Most of them don't even do real reviews of anything anymore. Just send me something so I can tell everyone that it is great and give them the specs I read from your website.


----------



## HexagonRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> ^This for sure. I've some of these YouTube guys just spouting off what you read on the manufacturer's website. Most of them don't even do real reviews of anything anymore. Just send me something so I can tell everyone that it is great and give them the specs I read from your website.


I agree completely. Some of the best reviewers don't even have youtube channels.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexagonRabbit*
> 
> I agree completely. Some of the best reviewers don't even have youtube channels.


This is true but I think a lot has to do with the "fame" that comes with it; the requirement to keep getting more and more subs.

They have to constantly pump out new content to stay relevant, that in itself is a lot of work. As a result the depth and quality of information suffers. Double edged sword it seems.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Not everyone is a fan of YouTube egos ... In my experience they as a whole rate only slightly above reddit when it comes to enthusiast knowledge bases.


Jayz lost me when he said that a PSU with an efficiency of 80% can only provide 80% of its rated output. He's also the one that said that the 980 Ti KPE is a waste of money as it doesn't overclock any better than the next 980 Ti... ON AIR.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Jayz lost me when he said that a PSU with an efficiency of 80% can only provide 80% of its rated output. *He's also the one that said that the 980 Ti KPE is a waste of money as it doesn't overclock any better than the next 980 Ti... ON AIR.*


Alot of people have said that because it's true. It still the silicon lottery after all.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Jayz lost me when he said that a PSU with an efficiency of 80% can only provide 80% of its rated output. He's also the one that said that the 980 Ti KPE is a waste of money as it doesn't overclock any better than the next 980 Ti... ON AIR.


First part is just dumb. Second part, Kingpin himself essentially said it himself:
Quote:


> Honestly speaking, I think most end users don't even realize how maxwell gpus are voltage capped at ambient type cooling. I can tell by many of the comments at OC.net, elsewhere, and also here in these card XOC bios threads. Especially compared to kepler. KP 780ti scaled great on voltage with air/water temps. Basically, more voltage = more clocks no matter what temperature.
> With 980 and later gpus including titanX, the scaling on air/water has all but almost gone. I would say about 95% of all maxwell 980,titan-X, and 980ti gpus NO MATTER what vga brand pcb it is on, DO NOT SCALE with more voltage than 1.25v-1.275v at temps warmer than 25c or so. There is no magical bios that can effectively remove this.
> 
> This is exactly why almost every moderate-good asic titanX, 980, and yes 980ti clock around 1550mhz MAX AVERAGE at say 45-60C loading temps.
> If you put 0c and colder on the card, you will see MUCH different behavior than what you see on air (green garbage all over screen when raising volts over 1.23-1.25vv or so)
> Cards with very good ASIC value (75% and up) will tend to have the most "overclocking", but just like about every other maxwell gpu, they cannot overvolt past 1.23v-1.25v.
> So highest asic cards like 80% +are almost always going to be the ones that can 1600+ on air/water, and again they do it pretty much WITHOUT overvolting over 1.23v-1.25v. Maxwell gpus with lower asic value like 65% will not be so great at air/water because these low asic gpus need voltage to scale compared to match the overclock of the high asic gpus( USING SAME USABLE VOLTAGE 1.23-1.25v)
> 
> The bios's I posted basically allow you to set a higher voltage on air/water. Some gpus can scale more, some cant, some actually will NEED more voltage than was previously needed to run same frequency. All different.
> 
> Have a better understanding now?


https://www.kingpincooling.com/forum/showpost.php?p=30273&postcount=57

and
Quote:


> The 980kp card is designed for extreme overclocking in every way, it scales great on voltage the way its supposed too without ANY limitation. 1.25v-1.68v / 30c to-130c. The scaling you are looking for (1.20v-1.3v 1575-1650) was not the target on this Ln2/extreme overclocking card. We'll try and find a nice balance for the air/water guys going forward, and keep supporting all previous Kp cards in future.
> *I have to ask, if just a little bit of mild overclocking (air-water temps with some minor voltage scaling is what you want, why by a KPE card that is designed to take the worst possible beating at 2ghz+ extreme overclocking with massive voltage? I'm happy and honored you purchased the card, but this is why evga offers many skus of each gen. They are all tailored for the end user specific needs. Sounds like just normal classified or even SC card would be equally suited in this case.* That being said, it seems like the KPE card is popular with all PC enthusiasts not just the extreme guys. That's why I'll continue to try and make the card more balanced no matter what the need for it is Lemme see what I can do on this bios, Ill keep working on it and thanx for the feedback.


https://www.kingpincooling.com/forum/showpost.php?p=30083&postcount=15

And idk if I saw it in this thread but ModMyMods now stocks Mayhems dyes! https://modmymods.com/liquid.html?manufacturer=551


----------



## Copyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Jayz lost me when he said that a PSU with an efficiency of 80% can only provide 80% of its rated output. He's also the one that said that the 980 Ti KPE is a waste of money as it doesn't overclock any better than the next 980 Ti... ON AIR.


Oh man .. do you have the video of the PSU comment? lol.. that's pretty good.


----------



## Mayhem

Guys no matter what you think we all have to start somewhere. My comments were inappropriate do not reflect at times our professionalism that they should do. Spent all day in a meeting with new PR guy (he hates the name PR and likes support guy)







.

We are setting up a new support system to better approach the market / consumer. We will also be providing information that may cause a bit of a stir how ever we think there needs to be more transparency.

We are also going to create support packs that contain mini blitz cleaning system with self address envelopes and empty sample bottles, So customers send back fluids to us to analyse for clarity of information. If we find a issues we will publish the data even it its our fault. We are aiming for a 12 to 24 hour window to get support packs out of the door with a 1 to 7 day arrival time world wide.

All sponsorship will also go though the new support system as well as all competition requests and free bee's.

There is so many more changes going on internally as well due to the size the company has grown and we need to implement the changes as soon as possible but in the right manner.

Mick


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Guys no matter what you think we all have to start somewhere.
> Mick


Have not received an answer yet - will I be ok also have uv additive also - thank you

Bit concerned as I have two separate EK pumps setup one for CPU and one for GPU spent a long time building this new rig and getting close to adding Pastel UV White with mostly blue dye and a tad of red - a little confused about future problems any feedback if I will be ok would be appreciated - thanks

Also I am using PETG throughout no flexible tubing


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Alot of people have said that because it's true. It still the silicon lottery after all.


The KPE was not engineered for air cooling. You don't review a Formula 1 car as a daily driver. You don't review a concert sound setup for your living room. You don't review an F-16 fighter jet as a commercial airliner, etc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copyright*
> 
> Oh man .. do you have the video of the PSU comment? lol.. that's pretty good.


Yes I do.


----------



## M3TAl

What exactly are you concerned about? Fluid changing color? Did you clean the rads, how were they cleaned, and what brand are they?


----------



## rsvette12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What exactly are you concerned about? Fluid changing color? Did you clean the rads, how were they cleaned, and what brand are they?


2 EK 480 PE'S - Concerned about build up in blocks - also color but not as much - have not cleaned them yet - still building rig - thanks


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Guys no matter what you think we all have to start somewhere. My comments were inappropriate do not reflect at times our professionalism that they should do. Spent all day in a meeting with new PR guy (he hates the name PR and likes support guy)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> We are setting up a new support system to better approach the market / consumer. We will also be providing information that may cause a bit of a stir how ever we think there needs to be more transparency.
> 
> We are also going to create support packs that contain mini blitz cleaning system *with self address envelopes and empty sample bottles, So customers send back fluids to us to analyse for clarity of information*. If we find a issues we will publish the data even it its our fault. We are aiming for a 12 to 24 hour window to get support packs out of the door with a 1 to 7 day arrival time world wide.
> 
> All sponsorship will also go though the new support system as well as all competition requests and free bee's.
> 
> There is so many more changes going on internally as well due to the size the company has grown and we need to implement the changes as soon as possible but in the right manner.
> 
> Mick


That's brilliant, Mick totally rocks.









I just spent $93.00 at PPCS for all Mayhem products, and still need to pick up the (2) Mayhems 500mm glass tubing runs.

Picked up the Blitz Kit for use with two EK rads.


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> The KPE was not engineered for air cooling. You don't review a Formula 1 car as a daily driver. You don't review a concert sound setup for your living room. You don't review an F-16 fighter jet as a commercial airliner, etc.
> Yes I do.


Yeesh, just read his replies to people when they point out his mistake and suggest he add annotations to correct it so people aren't misled. And he complains about Mayhems attitude...


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Looking good. A red backplate on the gpu would make a great addition


Or you could get a custom backplate, similar to these:

https://mainframecustom.com/product-category/gpu-backplates/msi-dragon-backplates/


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Or you could get a custom backplate, similar to these:
> 
> https://mainframecustom.com/product-category/gpu-backplates/msi-dragon-backplates/


Those are 100x better IMO. I almost got some for my 980 Tis. I'd stay away from them if you have a card that has VRAM on the back or toasty VRMs (like 290X) but if not (e.g. 980 Ti, 970?) they are way better and around the same price.

Edit: Actually, this is the place I was looking at:

http://www.v1tech.com/product-category/backplates/all-backplates/


----------



## electro2u

I think what Jay documented is valid. It makes me cringe sometimes the way he presents himself (talk of "client builds") but he's not stupid--the fluids were working fine for him until he added the HWLabs rads. I've had serious issues with my HWLabs rads too, both ph problems that took many many hours of flushing to get rid of (possibly made worse by leaving residue of Blitz part2 in the system) and in terms of build quality as well. Both of my nemesis GTX rads have crooked ports and I've seen several other people complain of the same.

The more diligent I get about cleaning all of the system components, the more stable the fluids get for me.

As an example: any of you guys ever polish your blocks when you disassemble them? Kinda greasy stuff, polish--hard to clean off the insides of your blocks. You can't just throw those back into the system after doing that and expect it to have no effect.

I've had some bad experiences with Mayhems coolants, and Mick has asked me to submit samples, which I never got around to, but my genuine belief is that my fluid problems have been self inflicted and learning how to properly prepare a system for nanofluids has made me a smarter person in general.


----------



## giltyler

My pastel ice white has been in for a year now and after 6 months took on a slight blue tint due to my not investing in the Blitz kit and only using vinegar and lemon juice alternately but that was an easy fix bought a bottle of Mayhems blue dye at PPCS and have a nice rich blue loop.
Live Learn Repeat

If I was a big timer like Jay that fluid would have been sent to Mick straight away so his whole audience could learn from the issue


----------



## Eudisld15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Alot of people have said that because it's true. It still the silicon lottery after all.


My reference zotac 980ti is doing 1500/8000 on water. Think I can push it more with some voltages? (110% power limit, 0vc)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Guys no matter what you think we all have to start somewhere. My comments were inappropriate do not reflect at times our professionalism that they should do. Spent all day in a meeting with new PR guy (he hates the name PR and likes support guy)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> We are setting up a new support system to better approach the market / consumer. We will also be providing information that may cause a bit of a stir how ever we think there needs to be more transparency.
> 
> We are also going to create support packs that contain mini blitz cleaning system with self address envelopes and empty sample bottles, So customers send back fluids to us to analyse for clarity of information. If we find a issues we will publish the data even it its our fault. We are aiming for a 12 to 24 hour window to get support packs out of the door with a 1 to 7 day arrival time world wide.
> 
> All sponsorship will also go though the new support system as well as all competition requests and free bee's.
> 
> There is so many more changes going on internally as well due to the size the company has grown and we need to implement the changes as soon as possible but in the right manner.
> 
> Mick


Think the sample bottle mailers for support is a great idea


----------



## alphabet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> ^This for sure. I've some of these YouTube guys just spouting off what you read on the manufacturer's website. Most of them don't even do real reviews of anything anymore. Just send me something so I can tell everyone that it is great and give them the specs I read from your website.


The thing is when youtubers quit their day job and catch an attitude.
I watched this guy at 20,000 subscribers with a day job. Then I watch him at 500,000 subscribers arguing with his community about how, why, and where he spends his money since he is entitled too.
Livestreaming is great, so is youtube, but the payments revolve around support from the community. So regardless of the time he puts in and what he does, if your community is not satisfied and does not view your videos, use referral codes, affiliate codes, and donates then you are going to make less money.

Some will not appreciate my comment for questioning what he does with his payments, as he's investing his time in providing content for people, but at the same time he is not being paid for putting a skillset to use, he is being paid by collective efforts of various people viewing and supporting him through multiple sources. Doesn't matter how fancy he edits a video or the content, if there is not people to watch it an support then you don't get paid. Also at this point the channel is growing fast enough where even if he is humble or a douche he'll have enough views from core community and random youtube redirects to continue to pay his bills and put food on his table.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Jayz lost me when he said that a PSU with an efficiency of 80% can only provide 80% of its rated output. He's also the one that said that the 980 Ti KPE is a waste of money as it doesn't overclock any better than the next 980 Ti... ON AIR.


Lost me when he drilled 4 holes in a motherboard, didn't check the back for anything and then discovered he drilled through a bunch of traces. Either it was on purpose for more views and hype or truly an idiot.

He's also made a lot more technical errors which he's corrected as well as even some he's avoided. Too much to keep track of. Can't blame the guy for capitalizing on what others already did.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> My pastel ice white has been in for a year now and after 6 months took on a slight blue tint due to my not investing in the Blitz kit and only using vinegar and lemon juice alternately but that was an easy fix bought a bottle of Mayhems blue dye at PPCS and have a nice rich blue loop.
> Live Learn Repeat
> 
> If I was a big timer like Jay that fluid would have been sent to Mick straight away so his whole audience could learn from the issue


But of course he'd rather insinuate things in video A and then in video B talk about the things he never said, but skip the most important one about not buying into that nano crap.
Video could of been avoided, but just shows you how much of a big child he can be.
He's clearly smart enough to know better, but it's so easy to play dumb when you're smart to stay in the clear.
If you aren't telling people to not buy it, but within the same sentence you say you don't believe in this crap, well obviously if your viewers trust you and don't believe they won't buy it either. Sad to see him pretend he didn't insinuate for people not to buy the product, but of course he did put focus to point out how he wasn't sponsored by mayhems.


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphabet*
> 
> Lost me when he drilled 4 holes in a motherboard, didn't check the back for anything and then discovered he drilled through a bunch of traces. Either it was on purpose for more views and hype or truly an idiot.


That was very recent, no?

Anyway, at least he's better than Tek Syndicate


----------



## Basiletech

My bottle of pastel black will arrive in two days!!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphabet*
> 
> The thing is when youtubers quit their day job and catch an attitude.
> I watched this guy at 20,000 subscribers with a day job. Then I watch him at 500,000 subscribers arguing with his community about how, why, and where he spends his money since he is entitled too.
> Livestreaming is great, so is youtube, but the payments revolve around support from the community. So regardless of the time he puts in and what he does, if your community is not satisfied and does not view your videos, use referral codes, affiliate codes, and donates then you are going to make less money.
> 
> Some will not appreciate my comment for questioning what he does with his payments, as he's investing his time in providing content for people, but at the same time he is not being paid for putting a skillset to use, he is being paid by collective efforts of various people viewing and supporting him through multiple sources. Doesn't matter how fancy he edits a video or the content, if there is not people to watch it an support then you don't get paid. Also at this point the channel is growing fast enough where even if he is humble or a douche he'll have enough views from core community and random youtube redirects to continue to pay his bills and put food on his table.
> Lost me when he drilled 4 holes in a motherboard, didn't check the back for anything and then discovered he drilled through a bunch of traces. Either it was on purpose for more views and hype or truly an idiot.
> 
> He's also made a lot more technical errors which he's corrected as well as even some he's avoided. Too much to keep track of. Can't blame the guy for capitalizing on what others already did.
> But of course he'd rather insinuate things in video A and then in video B talk about the things he never said, but skip the most important one about not buying into that nano crap.
> Video could of been avoided, but just shows you how much of a big child he can be.
> He's clearly smart enough to know better, but it's so easy to play dumb when you're smart to stay in the clear.
> If you aren't telling people to not buy it, but within the same sentence you say you don't believe in this crap, well obviously if your viewers trust you and don't believe they won't buy it either. Sad to see him pretend he didn't insinuate for people not to buy the product, but of course he did put focus to point out how he wasn't sponsored by mayhems.


Agreed, I like Jay but sometimes he needs to get his act together. Both parties look like fools from all this.


----------



## marshymellows

So im in the middle of going through blitz part 2 for the yearly serivce and i noticed some stuff.

1. Got some gunk (im thinking corrosion) colleting in the areas marked red. is there ans easy way to make them move so they get flushed out when i flush the system?

2. The whole loop has a green tint to from the green fulid i used. but the bottom of monoblock (marked blue) is not. do you guys have any idea why and if its a problem?


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> So im in the middle of going through blitz part 2 for the yearly serivce and i noticed some stuff.
> 
> 1. Got some gunk (im thinking corrosion) colleting in the areas marked red. is there ans easy way to make them move so they get flushed out when i flush the system?
> 
> 2. The whole loop has a green tint to from the green fulid i used. but the bottom of monoblock (marked blue) is not. do you guys have any idea why and if its a problem?


What coolant are you using if your using mayhems were you using a kill coil AND premixed coolant. I really don't think your supposed to mix the two it can cause a reaction. Is the green discoloring by the kill coil.
You are not supposed to have a silver kill coil with any Pastel coolants (Mayhems or EK). Those coolants have all the biocides, corrosion inhibitors, and the like already mixed into them.
You risk a reaction occurring against the biocide agent and the silver kill coil by having them in there at the same time.
Also try some distilled water to flush out your system!


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> What coolant are you using if your using mayhems were you using a kill coil AND premixed coolant. I really don't think your supposed to mix the two it can cause a reaction. Is the green discoloring by the kill coil.
> You are not supposed to have a silver kill coil with any Pastel coolants (Mayhems or EK). Those coolants have all the biocides, corrosion inhibitors, and the like already mixed into them.
> You risk a reaction occurring against the biocide agent and the silver kill coil by having them in there at the same time.
> Also try some distilled water to flush out your system!


I think you misunderstod me. the fluid that is in the system right now is the cleaning agent from mayhems blitz pro kit. The corrosion is there becuase i didnt clean it that well the first time i put it together.
But as for your question, no i did not use a kill coil with my fluid (mayhems lime green)


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> I think you misunderstod me. the fluid that is in the system right now is the cleaning agent from mayhems blitz pro kit. The corrosion is there becuase i didnt clean it that well the first time i put it together.


Ok nevermind then


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> Ok nevermind then


Its the thought that counts


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Its the thought that counts


Thanks! I just want to help im new just trying to meet some new people and solve some problems!














*EK Club*


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> Thanks! I just want to help im new just trying to meet some new people and solve some problems!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EK Club*


then you're in for treat because there is alot of awesome people here!


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> then you're in for treat because there is alot of awesome people here!


Ok I've been using mayhems for a long time for my customer builds so I decided to look at the club. Im glad to be here






















*EK Club*


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> So im in the middle of going through blitz part 2 for the yearly serivce and i noticed some stuff.
> 
> 1. Got some gunk (im thinking corrosion) colleting in the areas marked red. is there ans easy way to make them move so they get flushed out when i flush the system?
> 
> 2. The whole loop has a green tint to from the green fulid i used. but the bottom of monoblock (marked blue) is not. do you guys have any idea why and if its a problem?


Are you sure it's corrosion? It kinda looks like oxidation to me. You may want to open the block up to see for sure. What parts were you running in the loop and how long have you had it running?


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Are you sure it's corrosion? It kinda looks like oxidation to me. You may want to open the block up to see for sure. What parts were you running in the loop and how long have you had it running?


Cant say that im 100% sure. I opend all the priror to blitz part 2 and removed as much as i could. I guessing that the blitz part 2 has picked upp what i missed and it all managed to collect in the spots shown becuase i Cant find it anywhere else


----------



## 414347

I can tell you, the discoloration you see it is in fact oxidation, this is its bound to happen one way or another, just the matter of time, its unavoidable









Good thing is that oxidation will not cause any performance issue it is purely aesthetically not pleasantly looking, if you have clear blocks and run only distilled water like I do its visible, of course if you leave it in there without trying to clean some of it, it will start surface rust and eventually you might see your temps rize, but if you do yearly maintenance without even opening the block(s) but using ether vinegar or even better Blitz #2 which does really good job and it will flash the particles out, if any accumulated.

Year or maybe 10 months ago I think it was when Blitz just cam out I did some test on one of 4 of my Titan Hydro Copper blocks I was changing to Heatkiller blocks anyways so I had no issue doing that. I left my Hydro copper run for months purely on distilled water without any additives to speed it up process of oxidation and hoping to get some living bacteria in it as well, yes.

After that I opened one of my blocks and to my surprise it was absolutely clean like brand new







, the second block had some oxidation and I could see small amount of rust that was accumulated, but really, not much. I closed the block and put it on my bench and run it with Blits #2 for over 15 hours and after that I flashed with distilled more than 5-6 times, upon flashing it some particles of rust have came out, again not whole lot.

When I opened the block again it was as clean as could be, unless you polished the oxidized spot(s) with water based sand paper it was very satisfactory to me.

Bottom line is... oxidation will accrue in every block, just a matter of time but if you run e.g. diluted vinegar or Blitz part 2 which I think is really good solution, it was originally made for removing previously colored liquids (aurora and such) but it also does good job cleaning other crap out of your system without the need of opening any blocks or other internals to keep them in good shape, eventually and I'm talking years down the road if you still run the same blocks you might open them and inspect them then, but, most likely you probably won't even have them due to upgrades.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I can tell you, the discoloration you see it is in fact oxidation, this is its bound to happen one way or another, just the matter of time, its unavoidable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing is that oxidation will not cause any performance issue it is purely aesthetically not pleasantly looking, if you have clear blocks and run only distilled water like I do its visible, of course if you leave it in there without trying to clean some of it, it will start surface rust and eventually you might see your temps rize, but if you do yearly maintenance without even opening the block(s) but using ether vinegar or even better Blitz #2 which does really good job and it will flash the particles out, if any accumulated.
> 
> Year or maybe 10 months ago I think it was when Blitz just cam out I did some test on one of 4 of my Titan Hydro Copper blocks I was changing to Heatkiller blocks anyways so I had no issue doing that. I left my Hydro copper run for months purely on distilled water without any additives to speed it up process of oxidation and hoping to get some living bacteria in it as well, yes.
> 
> After that I opened one of my blocks and to my surprise it was absolutely clean like brand new
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , the second block had some oxidation and I could see small amount of rust that was accumulated, but really, not much. I closed the block and put it on my bench and run it with Blits #2 for over 15 hours and after that I flashed with distilled more than 5-6 times, upon flashing it some particles of rust have came out, again not whole lot.
> 
> When I opened the block again it was as clean as could be, unless you polished the oxidized spot(s) with water based sand paper it was very satisfactory to me.
> 
> Bottom line is... oxidation will accrue in every block, just a matter of time but if you run e.g. diluted vinegar or Blitz part 2 which I think is really good solution, it was originally made for removing previously colored liquids (aurora and such) but it also does good job cleaning other crap out of your system without the need of opening any blocks or other internals to keep them in good shape, eventually and I'm talking years down the road if you still run the same blocks you might open them and inspect them then, but, most likely you probably won't even have them due to upgrades.


I think you also missunderstod me.
As i said in the first post, i am in the process of using blitz part 2. The fluid in the pic is the chemical agent from blitz part 2 so id say oxidation is kinda out of the question unless it can happen in under 24 hours


----------



## Archea47

Are there any guidelines on ho much the Mayhem's X1 and Pastel coolants can be diluted? While still retaining their inhibiting properties and without the particulates in Pastel falling out

Did a couple builds with the X1 Blue this week, pretty cool







but I'm thinking about adding a little more distilled to lighten the blue a bit

I have a little X1 and a fair amount of Pastel laying around and am curious.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I think you also missunderstod me.
> As i said in the first post, i am in the process of using blitz part 2. The fluid in the pic is the chemical agent from blitz part 2 so id say oxidation is kinda out of the question unless it can happen in under 24 hours


I don't think I misunderstood you. What I'm trying to tell you is that oxidation rust/discoloration it's not something you can control. Blitz #2 have exposed the affected area to your eyes.

My point was that you won't keep any block with any type of plating from being attacked by rust or oxidation, if you using colored liquid you might not see anything or all of the effected spots until you flash your system/blocks and if you using Blitz, which is almost like highly concentrated shampoo on steroids/mild stripper cleaner then the spot that was already effected just got exposed


----------



## ali13245

Quick question. Can I use mayhems dye mixed with distilled water and pt nuke?


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Quick question. Can I use mayhems dye mixed with distilled water and pt nuke?


I shall reply with a lovely link >>> http://www.overclock.net/t/1177222/can-you-mix-mayhem-dye-with-distilled-water-and-pt-nuke-phn/0_100#post_15826570

But apparently, the short answer is no. And a couple of posts down from that is an explanation.

That said, Mayhems does their own biocide which IS compatible.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> I shall reply with a lovely link >>> http://www.overclock.net/t/1177222/can-you-mix-mayhem-dye-with-distilled-water-and-pt-nuke-phn/0_100#post_15826570
> 
> But apparently, the short answer is no. And a couple of posts down from that is an explanation.
> 
> That said, Mayhems does their own biocide which IS compatible.


So after reading the post, it seems that PT Nuke Cu can be used with dyes. Can anyone here confirm this?


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> So after reading the post, it seems that PT Nuke Cu can be used with dyes. Can anyone here confirm this?


I was too quick to post. I didn't realise that there are two versions of PT Nuke: PHN and Cu. Learn something everyday. Sorry.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> So after reading the post, it seems that PT Nuke Cu can be used with dyes. Can anyone here confirm this?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> I was too quick to post. I didn't realise that there are two versions of PT Nuke: PHN and Cu. Learn something everyday. Sorry.


The Cu version should be ok. Both it and Mayhems Biocide Extreme use Copper Sulphate as the active ingredient.

The PHN version I believe will destroy the dye, so stay away from it


----------



## FXformat

I used the UV clear blue additive and it worked for like 5 minutes then lost its effect. Might be switching over to pastel, does anyone know if pastel will make the pump a little quieter since it's thicker and maybe it'll drown out the humming?


----------



## Mayhem

New web support ticket system going live in a few days time.

http://support.mayhems.net/

http://support.mayhems.net/kb/index.php will be the FAQ section we are working on right now.

What has been removed is any support from me (mick), all telephone support (e.g got called 3:30 this morning from AUS asking for help and took about 1 hour to go though it all). You'll have a support team who will work Normal UK hours Monday till Friday and it will all be done via support tickets instead. My direct email will be dead in 2 days time.

We are also going to create support packs that contain mini blitz cleaning system with self address envelopes and empty sample bottles, So customers send back fluids to us to analyse for clarity of information. If we find a issues we will publish the data even it its our fault. We are aiming for a 12 to 24 hour window to get support packs out of the door with a 1 to 7 day arrival time world wide.

All sponsorship will also go though the new support system as well as all competition requests and free bee's.

That is all from me "mick" now any more interaction will be done via our support staff.

Good bye and happy new year to every one and all our real customers.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I don't think I misunderstood you. What I'm trying to tell you is that oxidation rust/discoloration it's not something you can control. Blitz #2 have exposed the affected area to your eyes.
> 
> My point was that you won't keep any block with any type of plating from being attacked by rust or oxidation, if you using colored liquid you might not see anything or all of the effected spots until you flash your system/blocks and if you using Blitz, which is almost like highly concentrated shampoo on steroids/mild stripper cleaner then the spot that was already effected just got exposed


I see, well that clears that up, Thanks for the answer you dont happen to know if its okay if a few ml of di water is left from the flush when i fill it back up with Pastel?


----------



## marshymellows

*Guys I need help asap!*

i dont know if you can see but there is a slight brownish color around the tube on the inside. cant see this color on any other component. This is just after the final flush with di water after blitz part 2.

im thinking that there is still some chemical on the tube from blitz which causes the discoloration, but my question is, is it fine to run it like this or do i need to flush the system and clean the tube?
UPDATE: filled the res to the top to see what would happen and as you can se there's a ring of gunk around the inside... Still the same question though, will this harm the fluid in the long run?


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> i dont know if you can see but there is a slight brownish color around the tube on the inside. cant see this color on any other component. This is just after the final flush with di water after blitz part 2.
> 
> im thinking that there is still some chemical on the tube from blitz which causes the discoloration, but my question is, is it fine to run it like this or do i need to flush the system and clean the tube?
> UPDATE: filled the res to the top to see what would happen and as you can se there's a ring of gunk around the inside... Still the same question though, will this harm the fluid in the long run?


Empty your system just for now, don't waste your good liquid.
I've had the same , very similar thing happening to me while ago . I will give you detail info in a bit as I am in a middle of something, in a mean time flash your system with distilled water, flash it 20-30 min each time, flash it at least 6-7 even more times, yes I know it's a lot and you probably flashed it many times already but I can guarantee you there is still Blitz in your loop.


----------



## 414347

I have STH10 2 loops and SMH10 single loop. About 3-4 months ago I have used Blitz on my SMH10 single loop with Bitspower Dual D5 Extreme top, the one with window in it. I have run Blitz for about 12-15 hours and after that I have flashed it vigorously about 6-8 times each time 20-30 min.

I use only DI with Biocide Extreme and I've know this a brown stain accumulation around the oval window of the Bitspower top.
I drained the loop, which was totally clean, nothing came out, except slight foam, which wasn't in reservoir when loop was running I removed the 250Ml Z-tube , removed the Top and oval window, cleaned it and put everything back together.

Everything seem good until next day, slowly the brown stain, looking like rust was coming back around the same area I was puzzled.

Well, the only thing came to my mind is to take everything apart, 2 of my Heatkiller GPU blocks and Heatkiller IV pro CPU block to inspect if there is anything unusual, to my surprise, everything was shiny clean.

Hm..put all blocks together refilled with DI and started flashing and I'm not kitting I flashed it at least 6-8 more times again and that was in addition to my previous flashes.
I've know this until almost the last flash, after draining the water, there was almost non of the foam or any bubbles I filled the loop and after that the brown stain never came back.

I honestly think that the Blitz is so powerful and adhesive that it needs to be flashes it more than specified in bottle direction, if it's not out of your system completely, it react to liquids that contain other additives. I don't think this brown stain is that visible if you using dark color liquids and again if it's still remain in your system, until you use something more exotic, yellow pink or even DI alone.

I think Mick should change/add to the label that the Blitz needs to be totally out of your system and amount of flashes might vary, depending on simple factors...not only complexity of the loop, but also flow rate itself.

I hope this is in some help to your and others that might be experiencing similar thing.
Keep in mind this is only my experience, this might be also coincident and its happening due to different reason but you shouldn't disregard the possibility of that being the real thing.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I have STH10 2 loops and SMH10 single loop. About 3-4 months ago I have used Blitz on my SMH10 single loop with Bitspower Dual D5 Extreme top, the one with window in it. I have run Blitz for about 12-15 hours and after that I have flashed it vigorously about 6-8 times each time 20-30 min.
> 
> I use only DI with Biocide Extreme and I've know this a brown stain accumulation around the oval window of the Bitspower top.
> I drained the loop, which was totally clean, nothing came out, except slight foam, which wasn't in reservoir when loop was running I removed the 250Ml Z-tube , removed the Top and oval window, cleaned it and put everything back together.
> 
> Everything seem good until next day, slowly the brown stain, looking like rust was coming back around the same area I was puzzled.
> 
> Well, the only thing came to my mind is to take everything apart, 2 of my Heatkiller GPU blocks and Heatkiller IV pro CPU block to inspect if there is anything unusual, to my surprise, everything was shiny clean.
> 
> Hm..put all blocks together refilled with DI and started flashing and I'm not kitting I flashed it at least 6-8 more times again and that was in addition to my previous flashes.
> I've know this until almost the last flash, after draining the water, there was almost non of the foam or any bubbles I filled the loop and after that the brown stain never came back.
> 
> I honestly think that the Blitz is so powerful and adhesive that it needs to be flashes it more than specified in bottle direction, if it's not out of your system completely, it react to liquids that contain other additives. I don't think this brown stain is that visible if you using dark color liquids and again if it's still remain in your system, until you use something more exotic, yellow pink or even DI alone.
> 
> I think Mick should change/add to the label that the Blitz needs to be totally out of your system and amount of flashes might vary, depending on simple factors...not only complexity of the loop, but also flow rate itself.
> 
> I hope this is in some help to your and others that might be experiencing similar thing.
> Keep in mind this is only my experience, this might be also coincident and its happening due to different reason but you shouldn't disregard the possibility of that being the real thing.


First of all, thanks for such a indepth answer!
what i did was remove the res and clean it with a toothbrush and some di water, loked squeeky clean but when i filled the lopp up again the same brown gunk came back, but alot less this time (an improvment i guess).
what im going to do now is to let the liquid run in the system for a day or two to see if something changes, I use acrylic blocks so i will be able to see if something builds up there. If it all goes bad i will flush the system and buy new liquid since i no longer see the my current liquid as "clean", but if nothing more happens i will use the liquid i have now and live with small, faint brown line in my res.


----------



## Basiletech

What is the best Acrylic tubing to use with pastel? I can't figure it out on mayhems website.


----------



## 414347

Sounds good. Keep in mind that rads can hold a lot of stuff in them as well, so if you keep on getting the blown stuff it might be something to do with that, that's why I mention more flashes than its suggested. I'm sure you can put up with the brown stain rings, but let's hope that this wont effect your liquid color all together.

Keep us posted

Good luck


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> What is the best Acrylic tubing to use with pastel? I can't figure it out on mayhems website.


Ek's hardline tubing or bitspower. you could also go PETG if you like it


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Sounds good. Keep in mind that rads can hold a lot of stuff in them as well, so if you keep on getting the blown stuff it might be something to do with that, that's why I mention more flashes than its suggested. I'm sure you can put up with the brown stain rings, but let's hope that this wont effect your liquid color all together.
> 
> Keep us posted
> 
> Good luck


That's what I had to do as well for a client of mine with the brown discoloration he put the same tubing with pastel and his tubing were ruined. I just told him what to do know I know a little more about the problem thanks to you!


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Sounds good. Keep in mind that rads can hold a lot of stuff in them as well, so if you keep on getting the blown stuff it might be something to do with that, that's why I mention more flashes than its suggested. I'm sure you can put up with the brown stain rings, but let's hope that this wont effect your liquid color all together.
> 
> Keep us posted
> 
> Good luck


Only time will tell if ihave to change the fluid or not. I will however post some pics of the system when i have everything done. i am currently in the procces of buying acrylic sheets to make side panels of


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Only time will tell if ihave to change the fluid or not. I will however post some pics of the system when i have everything done. i am currently in the procces of buying acrylic sheets to make side panels of


That sounds like some cool add-ons what case?


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> That sounds like some cool add-ons what case?


Im currently using bitfenix phenom mitx. i will also put in a new power button to match the green and black theme. I also have to come up with a solution to hiding the hideous colors of the noctua fans


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Im currently using bitfenix phenom mitx. i will also put in a new power button to match the green and black theme. I also have to come up with a solution to hiding the hideous colors of the noctua fans


Yea the Noctua fans are bland thats their marketing trick so that people don't copy them







Now I mainly use EK Vadar fans but sometimes Noctua nice choices!


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> Yea the Noctua fans are bland that their marketing trick so that people don't copy them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I mainly use EK Vadar fans but sometimes Noctua nice choices!


I was tempted to buy some vardar fans but when i looked at to my shelf of pc stuff and saw a total of 15 fans i was like "nah i think i have enough"


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> I was tempted to buy some vardar fans but when i looked at to my shelf of pc stuff and saw a total of 15 fans i was like "nah i think i have enough"


Don't we all you get a average of 3 case fans each build you do so hey just pile up! I did a quick 1hr budget build for family aybe 3 days ago and just used some leftover corsair AF fans


----------



## marshymellows

Yeah, i think i got like 4 or 6 of my fans from buying cpu coolers.

Thats one clean build!


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Yeah, i think i got like 4 or 6 of my fans from buying cpu coolers.
> 
> Thats one clean build!


Thanks it like my 5th budget build! I only have like 2 Noctua fans from coolers where some how the a pipe was broken and the store wouldn't take a refund


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> Thanks it like my 5th budget build! I only have like 2 Noctua fans from coolers where some how the a pipe was broken and the store wouldn't take a refund


Yeah, refunds can be a pain in the ass sometimes... I have a noctua fan just laying around becuase i bought it without checking if it was going to fit hehe


----------



## Basiletech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshymellows*
> 
> Yeah, refunds can be a pain in the ass sometimes... I have a noctua fan just laying around becuase i bought it without checking if it was going to fit hehe


Trust me your not the only one!


----------



## jodybdesigns

Been running 100% distilled with a Mayhems silver coil for 9 months 24/7. Tubes turned pink. Blocks turned brown.

There was some oxidation in the loop, which is expected, but I wasn't expecting it to be so bad.

You can see the pink showing through.


----------



## maybach123

about to be a mayhems user 2 of my upcoming builds (personal rig and project cobalt) are going to use mayhems. personal rig is using x1 clear and project cobalt is using pastel blue and yellow (going to be a blue angels inspired pc)


----------



## Recr3ational

Quick question guys,
I got some mayhems Pure? Black Pastel and wondering if I can maker it "blacker" it's abit purple-ish. Like really deep purple. Thanks


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Been running 100% distilled with a Mayhems silver coil for 9 months 24/7. Tubes turned pink. Blocks turned brown.
> 
> There was some oxidation in the loop, which is expected, but I wasn't expecting it to be so bad.
> 
> You can see the pink showing through.


In the past I have used distilled with silver coil, not Mayhems silver thou , it really doesn't matter from whom you get it as long as its 99.9 silver.

Anyways, my Koolance CPU block turned brown as well, I didn't really like the looks of it, but it didn't affect my temps at all.

For a while now, since I changed all of my blocks to Heatkiller I've been using Mayhems Biocide Extreme 1drop per liter *ONLY* with Distilled and I can tell you that all of my blocks are shiny like new and the water is crystal clear, great product, if anyone wants to know.


----------



## DNMock

Cleaning out my CPU block and I ran across this:



pretty sure it's plasticizer and if it's in the CPU block, probably gonna be in the GPU blocks as well.

Wondering if I need to open them up and clean them out as well, or when I run Blitz through the system if that will be good enough to break it all loose.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Cleaning out my CPU block and I ran across this:
> 
> 
> 
> pretty sure it's plasticizer and if it's in the CPU block, probably gonna be in the GPU blocks as well.
> 
> Wondering if I need to open them up and clean them out as well, or when I run Blitz through the system if that will be good enough to break it all loose.


Do it right, tear it down.


----------



## 414347

If you haven't clean that CPU block yet, put it back on and try Blitz, run for several hours and open that CPU block again, you might be surprise, you might not









Potentially, you can save yourself not only ton of time now but in the near future as it will happen again if you using soft tubing, also taking blocks apart, as it seem pretty straight forward and it is, human error it's not uncommon and leak can happen I always believe in factory sealed blocks to be the safest way unless you have no other alternatives, you have nothing to lose but a lot to gain.
Your call, it's just a suggestion


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> If you haven't clean that CPU block yet, put it back on and try Blitz, run for several hours and open that CPU block again, you might be surprise, you might not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Potentially, you can save yourself not only ton of time now but in the near future as it will happen again if you using soft tubing, also taking blocks apart, as it seem pretty straight forward and it is, human error it's not uncommon and leak can happen I always believe in factory sealed blocks to be the safest way unless you have no other alternatives, you have nothing to lose but a lot to gain.
> Your call, it's just a suggestion


Already cleaned out the block. It's a pain but I've torn down GPU blocks in the past just fine, so I'll just bite the bullet


----------



## pompss

ok after using blitz with my system and flush it well after 4 months im having discoloration issue with pastel red and pastel white
I would like to know if white led light can cause this and if there is a way to avoid this discoloration issue.

I dont want to dissamble my loop every 4 months.

its there a solution yet ?


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> ok after using blitz with my system and flush it well after 4 months im having discoloration issue with pastel red and pastel white
> I would like to know if white led light can cause this and if there is a way to avoid this discoloration issue.
> 
> I dont want to dissamble my loop every 4 months.
> 
> its there a solution yet ?


Post some photos, please.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> Post some photos, please.


i dont have it. i already removed and i throw the liquid away.
the red became purple and the white like grey white.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> ok after using blitz with my system and flush it well after 4 months im having discoloration issue with pastel red and pastel white
> I would like to know if white led light can cause this and if there is a way to avoid this discoloration issue.
> 
> I dont want to dissamble my loop every 4 months.
> 
> its there a solution yet ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> i dont have it. i already removed and i throw the liquid away.
> the red became purple and the white like grey white.


Hi pompss, It does sort of sound like cyclical formations or chemical changes in your loop. I think there is some good evidence for the formation of salts in some systems, which might alter or discolor the coolant. I can't speculate on exact causes but I have also experienced this, and seem to have finally gotten my loop environment stable for pastel. Previously the pigment of my pastel would separate very rapidly, just a few hours of system being off and there would be a bright film of color at the top of my reservoir and it would be less opaque below this. This does not appear to be happening since my last very very serious cleaning, where I flushed my radiators with hot tap water at high pressure from my sink faucet for an extended period of time, cleaned all blocks carefully, and ran distilled water through the reassembled system for several days, regularly draining and refilling. I had used Blitz part 2 and I suspect there was a considerable amount of residue from the Blitz 2 previous to this.


----------



## M3TAl

Does pastel have any issue with the Aquacomputer mechanical flow meters? Have some Pastel Extreme sitting here for a build I'm trying to finish hopefully this weekend. Been using one of those meters with distilled and then X1 Blue for about a year now. I know the Koolance mechanical ones had issues with pastel (getting clogged and whatnot).

Courtesy of Martin's Liquid Lab:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Edit: If anyone is curious these things work just fine hooked up directly to the motherboard, HWiNFO64 lets you do just about anything







. You can edit values (add multiplication factor, etc) to convert the output to GPM/LPM in realtime.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Hi pompss, It does sort of sound like cyclical formations or chemical changes in your loop. I think there is some good evidence for the formation of salts in some systems, which might alter or discolor the coolant. I can't speculate on exact causes but I have also experienced this, and seem to have finally gotten my loop environment stable for pastel. Previously the pigment of my pastel would separate very rapidly, just a few hours of system being off and there would be a bright film of color at the top of my reservoir and it would be less opaque below this. This does not appear to be happening since my last very very serious cleaning, where I flushed my radiators with hot tap water at high pressure from my sink faucet for an extended period of time, cleaned all blocks carefully, and ran distilled water through the reassembled system for several days, regularly draining and refilling. I had used Blitz part 2 and I suspect there was a considerable amount of residue from the Blitz 2 previous to this.


thnaks of the advise.
My loop with pastel was build with all new components .
i run blitz 1 for the rads and after blitz 2 . i flush it 20 times with distilled water and check the ph each time until i had the perfect 6.8 - 7.0 ph.

I had two loops one with white and one with red both had the same issue.

if i get it clear you used hot tap water to flush your rads but i need to know for how long you did it so i can do the same and then you run it with distilled water for some days.

After that you use blitz 2 or you just flush it and refill it ?

Thanks again


----------



## DtheM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Does pastel have any issue with the Aquacomputer mechanical flow meters? Have some Pastel Extreme sitting here for a build I'm trying to finish hopefully this weekend. Been using one of those meters with distilled and then X1 Blue for about a year now. I know the Koolance mechanical ones had issues with pastel (getting clogged and whatnot).
> 
> Courtesy of Martin's Liquid Lab:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: If anyone is curious these things work just fine hooked up directly to the motherboard, HWiNFO64 lets you do just about anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . You can edit values (add multiplication factor, etc) to convert the output to GPM/LPM in realtime.


Nope, not at all.. Mine is running with pastel for over a year now with absolutely no issues whatsoever...


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DtheM*
> 
> Nope, not at all.. Mine is running with pastel for over a year now with absolutely no issues whatsoever...


Thanks for the confirmation and real world experience.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> thnaks of the advise.
> My loop with pastel was build with all new components .
> i run blitz 1 for the rads and after blitz 2 . i flush it 20 times with distilled water and check the ph each time until i had the perfect 6.8 - 7.0 ph.
> 
> I had two loops one with white and one with red both had the same issue.
> 
> if i get it clear you used hot tap water to flush your rads but i need to know for how long you did it so i can do the same and then you run it with distilled water for some days.
> 
> After that you use blitz 2 or you just flush it and refill it ?
> 
> Thanks again


Hi! yes. me too about the pH, it was where it needed to be when I put the pastel in first time i tried it---but when you are running new fluid into the system it won't have a chance to change pH if you check it right away. It is when the fluid comes out 3 months later that you may find the pH has changed, I suspect. If there is a residue or significant deposit of some substance in a radiator somewhere it won't immediately dissolve into your coolant, it will happen gradually. At any rate, I imagine there were some large stubborn deposits of blitz part 2 getting stuck in my rads and causing chalky sort of residue. I posted a photo of my reservoir with weird white film over the acrylic in this thread but I can't find it at the moment.

I had already used Blitz 2 a while before I did the following: The tap water flushing went on for several hours of just hooking one of the threads up to my sink and letting it flow out the other port. Hot water went on only for as long as my hot water heater was able to keep up and I only did my 2 rads. After that yes literally about 2 days of regularly draining and refilling with distilled and letting it run 3-4 hours in between (using 2 d5s at full power--heavy flow). If nothing else it made me feel like I was doing everything I could.

It's not that I wouldn't ever use blitz part 2 again--it cleaned one of my nickel blocks better than I could by hand, but considering how insanely foamy it was the first time I did it (and I didn't disassemble to clean it out carefully, just flushed with distilled for 3 or 4 hours), I think it was at least partly involved in the problems I had with pastel.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Hi! yes. me too about the pH, it was where it needed to be when I put the pastel in first time i tried it---but when you are running new fluid into the system it won't have a chance to change pH if you check it right away. It is when the fluid comes out 3 months later that you may find the pH has changed, I suspect. If there is a residue or significant deposit of some substance in a radiator somewhere it won't immediately dissolve into your coolant, it will happen gradually. At any rate, I imagine there were some large stubborn deposits of blitz part 2 getting stuck in my rads and causing chalky sort of residue. I posted a photo of my reservoir with weird white film over the acrylic in this thread but I can't find it at the moment.
> 
> I had already used Blitz 2 a while before I did the following: The tap water flushing went on for several hours of just hooking one of the threads up to my sink and letting it flow out the other port. Hot water went on only for as long as my hot water heater was able to keep up and I only did my 2 rads. After that yes literally about 2 days of regularly draining and refilling with distilled and letting it run 3-4 hours in between (using 2 d5s at full power--heavy flow). If nothing else it made me feel like I was doing everything I could.
> 
> It's not that I wouldn't ever use blitz part 2 again--it cleaned one of my nickel blocks better than I could by hand, but considering how insanely foamy it was the first time I did it (and I didn't disassemble to clean it out carefully, just flushed with distilled for 3 or 4 hours), I think it was at least partly involved in the problems I had with pastel.


I think blitz 2 was the issue in our system loop bc when i flush the pastel after 4 month i saw foam at the top.
I flush my system with 30 liter of distilled water and still wasnt enough.
Mayhem should tell people after using blitz 2 to have the system run and flush for at least 3-4 days with distilled water, flush and add pastel.
They should redo the tutorial so this issue can be avoided.

I bought blitz to not have any issues and pretty much was the one causing the issue. Kind of dissapointed i have to rebuy pastel for the third time in 7 months.


----------



## M3TAl

When I dismantled my loop last week (X1 UV Blue, Advanced LRT, Alphacool rads never blitzed but cleaned extensively multiple times in the past including vinegar/bicarb flush) the tubing had a red tint which I found interesting considering there was nothing red in the system. There was also 3 pieces of Durelene tubing which turned greenish which seems normal considering it did the same with my loop 2 years ago with pastel (Durelene seems no bueno).

Any one seen that before? Not worried about it, just curious how it ended up red and only the LRT was red. The tint was not noticeable while in the system, just after draining and dismantle.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> When I dismantled my loop last week (X1 UV Blue, Advanced LRT, Alphacool rads never blitzed but cleaned extensively multiple times in the past including vinegar/bicarb flush) the tubing had a red tint which I found interesting considering there was nothing red in the system. There was also 3 pieces of Durelene tubing which turned greenish which seems normal considering it did the same with my loop 2 years ago with pastel (Durelene seems no bueno).
> 
> Any one seen that before? Not worried about it, just curious how it ended up red and only the LRT was red. The tint was not noticeable while in the system, just after draining and dismantle.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Well that looks familiar.



That's oxidation.



I bet your blocks are brown/black. Check them.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> It's not that I wouldn't ever use blitz part 2 again--it cleaned one of my nickel blocks better than I could by hand, but considering how insanely foamy it was the first time I did it (and I didn't disassemble to clean it out carefully, just flushed with distilled for 3 or 4 hours), I think it was at least partly involved in the problems I had with pastel.


If you look few posts up I have mentioned how important is to make sure that after using Blitz part2 you have to flash it very vigorously a lotttt







and not only blocks but the whole system, otherwise it might speed the color change of your pastel or other fancy liquids and also might cause the brown residue I have mentioned.

Complexity and flow rate will be a big factor whether the remaining of blitz gets cleaned out after 10 or 30 flashes and from my personal experience with my enormous flow rate It was gone after I think ..pfff 20-25 flashes, each 20-30 even 40 min.

Blitz does really good job removing even oxidation from your blocks I have personally tested but if you run distilled water as you might not see it with color liquids and you look closely on your water reservoir after all bubbles are gone, especially Z-tubes inner wall, you will know this that if Blitz is not totally gone even after very extensive time of flashes it leaves slight film of some sort of clear noticeable residue rings and when afterwords mixed with liquids that obviously have additives in them already I think that's what helps speed things up as far is color change with some specific liquid colors.

I'm wondering If Mick have tested this and can confirm this theory, that if the blitz in fact remains in the system it can cause this color change and brown residue as it has been reported earlier by other members


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Well that looks familiar.
> 
> 
> 
> That's oxidation.
> 
> 
> 
> I bet your blocks are brown/black. Check them.


GPU block is nickel plated, CPU block has a nice patina I guess you could say but not black, and couldn't really tell you what the inside of the rads look like. I just leave the copper in the CPU block that way, too much hassle cleaning it up every time to a nice new/shiny look. It already had that patina before adding the tubing. Can't see in the VRM block as it's part of the mobo heatsink and the fittings are not removable.

Is it better to go ahead and clean the CPU block back to shiny copper or leave it as is? Going Pastel Extreme and maybe non-stain blue dye.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Actually in the micro-channels of the GPU block there is that classic copper oxidation so I guess the nickel plating is defunct in that area. What's the best course of action for that? Leave it as is or clean with lemon juice or something?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> GPU block is nickel plated, CPU block has a nice patina I guess you could say but not black, and couldn't really tell you what the inside of the rads look like. I just leave the copper in the CPU block that way, too much hassle cleaning it up every time to a nice new/shiny look. It already had that patina before adding the tubing. Can't see in the VRM block as it's part of the mobo heatsink and the fittings are not removable.
> 
> Is it better to go ahead and clean the CPU block back to shiny copper or leave it as is? Going Pastel Extreme and maybe non-stain blue dye.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually in the micro-channels of the GPU block there is that classic copper oxidation so I guess the nickel plating is defunct in that area. What's the best course of action for that? Leave it as is or clean with lemon juice or something?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ouch. Patina has completely covered the center on that GPU cooler (the green color). That is not a good sign. That will look like the Statue of Liberty soon. I hope that is algae buildup and not Patina. *edit* Although if it was Patina, it would be hella waterproof lol.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I'm wondering If Mick have tested this and can confirm this theory, that if the blitz in fact remains in the system it can cause this color change and brown residue as it has been reported earlier by other members


That's the thing. I got the idea to hook my rads up to the sink from Mick.

If you watch the blitz instruction video I'm pretty sure he actually recommends this--except they actually hook the entire loop up to the main water line.

I didn't want to bother figuring out how to connect my faucet to my loop and I didn't want to tear down and reflush my rads after Blitz 2. These were *my* mistakes.

I break stuff a lot.







I've sent screws through radiator channels, I've killed pumps, Ive spilled a ton of coolant and a few extra bottles of Mayhems pastel are not going to ruin my day or my hobby. I made a really nice dark color with pastel red and purple mixed together and it has been a lot longer than my first attempt with pastel and the color is completely stable.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Ouch. Patina has completely covered the center on that GPU cooler (the green color). That is not a good sign. That will look like the Statue of Liberty soon. I hope that is algae buildup and not Patina. *edit* Although if it was Patina, it would be hella waterproof lol.


It's definitely copper oxidation and not algae. At first I thought it was leftover X1 in the micro-channels but the more I cleaned the more obvious it was dry, just some good ole patina.

Also it's interesting to note that the top of the channels are not oxidized, they're still nickel. It's actually the edges. If you look at the block from directly above you can barely tell it's there. When looking from an angle it's very noticeable.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> It's definitely copper oxidation and not algae. At first I thought it was leftover X1 in the micro-channels but the more I cleaned the more obvious it was dry, just some good ole patina.
> 
> Also it's interesting to note that the top of the channels are not oxidized, they're still nickel. It's actually the edges. If you look at the block from directly above you can barely tell it's there. When looking from an angle it's very noticeable.


Well on a positive note, if it does go Patina, you don't ever have to worry about it corroding away lol

You might be able to buff it out with a Dremel and buffer though.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I break stuff a lot. tongue.gif I've sent screws through radiator channels, I've killed pumps, Ive spilled a ton of coolant and a few extra bottles of Mayhems pastel are not going to ruin my day or my hobby. I made a really nice dark color with pastel red and purple mixed together and it has been a lot longer than my first attempt with pastel and the color is completely stable.


That is hilarious







I'm on the other hand so darn careful and that is not always a good thing, it can be pain in the bip...









With me, things need to be perfectly straight or at least the right direction, screws not too long and not to short, pathetic if you ask me, but that's just the way I am









I remember when I first build my pc and started flashing the rads, all manual shaking, even thou Hardware Labs are clean rads, I still managed to get decent amount of crap out of them and 5 x 480 Nemesis...when I was done I could do my shoe laces standing up I wish I knew Blitz than









But tbh. the direct sink idea it's not bad at all, after all, you would do the last flash with distilled but until then why not the easier way


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I feel that if Mic and Jay were to have mobs standing behind them and a fight would break out, Mayhems would win.
> 
> TCO


Well,

500k+ subscribers vs some watercoolers on a forum doesn't sound like Mayhems would win a physical fight to me haha


----------



## alphabet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Well,
> 
> 500k+ subscribers vs some watercoolers on a forum doesn't sound like Mayhems would win a physical fight to me haha


Quote:


> Overclock.net Info
> 
> Members: 452,447


I'll put my money on the forum users who are willing to research vs youtube subscribers arguing in comments section any day of the week


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphabet*
> 
> I'll put my money on the forum users who are willing to research vs youtube subscribers arguing in comments section any day of the week


Me too. Lol.


----------



## jodybdesigns

But how many of those users are "active" or have been "active" in the last 30 days? BOTH of those numbers will crumble to nothing.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphabet*
> 
> I'll put my money on the forum users who are willing to research vs youtube subscribers arguing in comments section any day of the week


I see you edited it to not sound so mean









"Sure, because jayztwocents demographic is adults with knowledge".

I mean yea some are younger but plenty I'm sure the majority of his demographics are in the 16-30 age range, it's not like he does lets play videos that sound like pewdypie, most of it is watercooling and tech related, and doesn't put much stupid humor in it. But in the end no one would have a fist fight over something so silly


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I see you edited it to not sound so mean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Sure, because jayztwocents demographic is adults with knowledge".
> 
> I mean yea some are younger but plenty I'm sure the majority of his demographics are in the 16-30 age range, it's not like he does lets play videos that sound like pewdypie, most of it is watercooling and tech related, and doesn't put much stupid humor in it. But in the end no one would have a fist fight over something so silly


I honestly don't listen to anyone anymore when it comes to hardware etc because there are simply too many people who don't know what they're doing with their comps, Jay isn't excluded as much as I like him.

The day I bought a GPU from someone on this forum for a substantial amount of money for them to not honour the extra cash I paid to ensure proper postage leading to physical damage to the card an possible ESD to boot... Taught me this.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> GPU block is nickel plated, CPU block has a nice patina I guess you could say but not black, and couldn't really tell you what the inside of the rads look like. I just leave the copper in the CPU block that way, too much hassle cleaning it up every time to a nice new/shiny look. It already had that patina before adding the tubing. Can't see in the VRM block as it's part of the mobo heatsink and the fittings are not removable.
> 
> Is it better to go ahead and clean the CPU block back to shiny copper or leave it as is? Going Pastel Extreme and maybe non-stain blue dye.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually in the micro-channels of the GPU block there is that classic copper oxidation so I guess the nickel plating is defunct in that area. What's the best course of action for that? Leave it as is or clean with lemon juice or something?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you use acidic stuff to clean your block before? Do you have silver kill coils in your loop, because they will cause this issue.


----------



## alphabet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I see you edited it to not sound so mean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Sure, because jayztwocents demographic is adults with knowledge".
> 
> I mean yea some are younger but plenty I'm sure the majority of his demographics are in the 16-30 age range, it's not like he does lets play videos that sound like pewdypie, most of it is watercooling and tech related, and doesn't put much stupid humor in it. *But in the end no one would have a fist fight over something so silly*


Can tell you haven't fought a lot if you said the bolded words, which is a good thing though









Yes I definitely edit the post so I don't seem like a condescending prick, because on the internet I am required to treat all as equal







I was also scared a Jayztwocents adult stan would crucify me for talking down about their favorite youtubers community.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> But how many of those users are "active" or have been "active" in the last 30 days? BOTH of those numbers will crumble to nothing.


Logic is not welcome


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphabet*
> 
> Logic is not welcome


Oh I forgot I'm on OCN and not Facebook


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> That's the thing. I got the idea to hook my rads up to the sink from Mick.
> 
> If you watch the blitz instruction video I'm pretty sure he actually recommends this--except they actually hook the entire loop up to the main water line.
> 
> I didn't want to bother figuring out how to connect my faucet to my loop and I didn't want to tear down and reflush my rads after Blitz 2. These were *my* mistakes.
> 
> I break stuff a lot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've sent screws through radiator channels, I've killed pumps, Ive spilled a ton of coolant and a few extra bottles of Mayhems pastel are not going to ruin my day or my hobby. I made a really nice dark color with pastel red and purple mixed together and it has been a lot longer than my first attempt with pastel and the color is completely stable.




All you need is a faucet to garden hose adapter and a worm clamp. Don't run the sink at full blast and you should be ok. I flushed the system for about 30-45 minutes then did a few flushes with distilled, haven't had any issues with the pastel in 10 months.

edit: I almost forgot you need one of these to connect the hose.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Did you use acidic stuff to clean your block before? Do you have silver kill coils in your loop, because they will cause this issue.


The block came used already installed on the card and I was too lazy to take it apart (totally should have, i know







) . I've only run X1 through it. So should the thing be cleaned out, patina completely removed? Or keep it as is?

It was almost impossible to get it put back together because the o-ring is stretched out. TOok about 2 hours of to get it put back together.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> 
> 
> All you need is a faucet to garden hose adapter and a worm clamp. Don't run the sink at full blast and you should be ok. I flushed the system for about 30-45 minutes then did a few flushes with distilled, haven't had any issues with the pastel in 10 months.
> 
> edit: I almost forgot you need one of these to connect the hose.


+1

IT_Diva and Mick did explain these things to me but... yeah. Lazy. ends up wasting a lot of time being lazy. Live, learn.


----------



## Deedaz

I think I got the info from them as well, but figured it wasn't a bad idea to put it out there again for those that weren't aware. Great community we have here, everything I know about watercooling I've learned on these forums. I've learned the hard way not to be lazy too, busted a mobo trying to squish cables in rather than tidy them up like I should have.







My next build I plan to make everything very detailed and perfect...no laziness allowed!


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> 
> 
> All you need is a faucet to garden hose adapter and a worm clamp. Don't run the sink at full blast and you should be ok. I flushed the system for about 30-45 minutes then did a few flushes with distilled, haven't had any issues with the pastel in 10 months.
> 
> edit: I almost forgot you need one of these to connect the hose.


I think i'm gonna try this next time I need to flush my system







.You only used this and distilled water afterwards? What coolant was in the system before you flushed it?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> 
> 
> All you need is a faucet to garden hose adapter and a worm clamp. Don't run the sink at full blast and you should be ok. I flushed the system for about 30-45 minutes then did a few flushes with distilled, haven't had any issues with the pastel in 10 months.
> 
> edit: I almost forgot you need one of these to connect the hose.


Holy... you're a genius. I knew about hooking blocks (and other components) up to pre-flush with tap water but never thought about doing it for the whole loop before.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I think i'm gonna try this next time I need to flush my system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .You only used this and distilled water afterwards? What coolant was in the system before you flushed it?


I had the Aurora 2 running and was switching to pastel so I needed to blitz it. I did a quick flush of the aurora with the sink before I put the blitz in so I could see how much the blitz got. That stuff really gets everything, I was surprised how much crap I could see floating around the loop with the blitz, even after the quick sink flush.
The pic was taken during the pre-flush, before I installed the other 2 rads and ran the blitz and flushed again.


----------



## eucalyptus

Hello, trying out my dyes before putting in it to the system.

I have a emerald green, super cool green forest color, but saddenly not the "right" for me this time.

I also have 2x 250ml UV green coolant, the one you mix with with water.

My calculations, 250+1750ml water= 2 ltr, so my conlcusion were 1ml coolant per 7ml water, am I right? It's embarrassing that I can't calculate that out, jeesus christ!

Ended up with 7ml coolant and 60ml water because it was to dark with 45ml water.

I am both happy and not. Without any light source directly pointed on the water (non UV) the water looks grey, old and boring. I can't even have it in my room with just the ceiling lamp. It requires a light source directly pointed on it.

But I am very happy with the UV effect, exactly what I were looking for. And no matter how much normal light I put on it, the UV effect is the same brightness and "glowing" effect in the dark as in under a normal light.

I am confusing, I know









My friends says this won't look good in my reservoirs (have 4x XSPC 170 D5 photons). They is will faint out and UV light destroys the color pigment.

What are your thoughts? What should I do? I got a recommendation to put in just a few drops of black or white pastel, don't know why though.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> SNIP


That UV green is cool! I need that for my build soon I think!


----------



## fisher6

That UV green looks great. Gonna be in my next build!


----------



## eucalyptus

Mayhem has a new Extreme white, 100ml gives 2-3.5 ltr.
http://mayhems.co.uk/store/mayhems-pastel-extreme-white-100ml.html

Any pictures or more information about it?

I am thinking of to just a few drops of it in my UV green, what do you think the "effect" would result in? I am curious.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Holy... you're a genius. I knew about hooking blocks (and other components) up to pre-flush with tap water but never thought about doing it for the whole loop before.


Just remember not to turn the faucet on full blast, or you blow out components.


----------



## Copyright

Is it possible to filter tap water and make it as pure as distilled? I love the faucet flush but was wondering if a a filter could be added before it goes into the loop to keep the water pure. How do you flush with distilled after ... without having to take apart the loop?


----------



## jodybdesigns

I bought some distilled water made for a CPAP machine. Been ran through the distill a few more times. Curious if it's safe. Oh well its been in there 2 weeks and everything is good.


----------



## ivoryg37

What is the least staining red by mayhem? Will pastel red coolant cause staining?


----------



## Copyright

I did a piss poor job on cleaning my GTX rads.. Just hot distilled water and shook them and flushed dumped for about 20 minutes. I am probably 5 or 6 weeks into use an no issues yet but after all the reading I have done I am expecting problems. I did drain the system to do upgrade and put fresh Pastel back in.. not sure if that will help any.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copyright*
> 
> Is it possible to filter tap water and make it as pure as distilled? I love the faucet flush but was wondering if a a filter could be added before it goes into the loop to keep the water pure. How do you flush with distilled after ... without having to take apart the loop?


Unless its a fairly small system and you can turn it all around to completely drain it (which is the case in the mayhems instructional blitz video) you wont be able to get all the tap water out very easily.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> What is the least staining red by mayhem? Will pastel red coolant cause staining?


There is non staining dye but are you talking about staining the carpet or ? Acrylic wont stain and blocks dont stain. Soft tubing does.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copyright*
> 
> I did a piss poor job on cleaning my GTX rads.. Just hot distilled water and shook them and flushed dumped for about 20 minutes. I am probably 5 or 6 weeks into use an no issues yet but after all the reading I have done I am expecting problems. I did drain the system to do upgrade and put fresh Pastel back in.. not sure if that will help any.


Im sure its fine. Hardcore flushing has been discussed because of the foamy / residue nature of blitz part2


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Copyright*
> 
> Is it possible to filter tap water and make it as pure as distilled? I love the faucet flush but was wondering if a a filter could be added before it goes into the loop to keep the water pure. How do you flush with distilled after ... without having to take apart the loop?


no its not possible unless you have a big distilled water tank and a pump like you would at a lab or a school. usually you need more than a filter to distill water.


----------



## eucalyptus

I can't wait to fill this badboys with Mayhem coolant









It will be a few spoons of paste ice white, to get the "frost" effect. Then all in with UV green. And if it's too dark, then I will add a few drops of lime & yellow dye


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I can't wait to fill this badboys with Mayhem coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will be a few spoons of paste ice white, to get the "frost" effect. Then all in with UV green. And if it's too dark, then I will add a few drops of lime & yellow dye


Go Sweden.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Unless its a fairly small system and you can turn it all around to completely drain it (which is the case in the mayhems instructional blitz video) you wont be able to get all the tap water out very easily.
> There is non staining dye but are you talking about staining the carpet or ? Acrylic wont stain and blocks dont stain. Soft tubing does.
> Im sure its fine. Hardcore flushing has been discussed because of the foamy / residue nature of blitz part2


Thanks for the answer, I just meant staining my acrylic reservoir, waterblock, and PETG tubing(I wonder if PETG will stain since its sorta like soft tubing in a sense)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@guitarhero23

I feel like I could take on 20 kids and 10 adults of Jay'z "Posse" before they bring me down.

And I am just 1 person.

Positive thinking will crush armies.

TCO


----------



## M3TAl

Hoping this weekend I'll have the last of the required parts to finish this desk. Hoping to finally get the Pastel Extreme in there and leak test. Should look decent but my loops are not works of art. Lots of used parts/function over form


----------



## Prophet4NO1

So, a month or so after putting Aurora in the loop it is still swirling around the res, but the only place you see it in the rest of the loop is the two tubes connecting GPU's where the flow drops off. Looking at adding some booster to it. Two questions. First what color is in the Aurora red? I am guessing silver. Second, any thing I should know about before adding the booster?


----------



## DNMock

Bottle of Pastel Extreme Concentrate (unopened) is sitting in my storage container at the moment and it dropped below freezing this weekend. Trash it or good to go still? Only got down to 27 I think, but enough to have water puddles freeze over.


----------



## Anateus

Are you going to restock GT's any time soon?


----------



## vilius572

@Mayhem Thank you for blocking me on facebook, that's very kind of you. I can always write all drama I had with you down here if I really want to. You don't really need to block me. If anybody is wondering, I had similar drama with mayhems as JayTwoCents had. Very unprofessional customer service


----------



## SteezyTN

You all know that you don't NEED to buy Mayhems. You can always buy elsewhere!


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> You all know that you don't NEED to buy Mayhems. You can always buy elsewhere!


I have nothing against his products but the way he treats his customers.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> I have nothing against his products but the way he treats his customers.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> @Mayhem Thank you for blocking me on facebook, that's very kind of you. I can always write all drama I had with you down here if I really want to. You don't really need to block me. If anybody is wondering, I had similar drama with mayhems as JayTwoCents had. Very unprofessional customer service


Why were you posting stuff on his facebook page? You know about this thread here, you know you get good answers quickly in it, so what possible reason is there to go post on facebook?

I hate facebook, and all the stupid drama associated with that dumpster fire.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Why were you posting stuff on his facebook page? You know about this thread here, you know you get good answers quickly in it, so what possible reason is there to go post on facebook?
> 
> I hate facebook, and all the stupid drama associated with that dumpster fire.


The problem is I wasn't posting ANYTHING what so ever on his facebook page.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Why were you posting stuff on his facebook page? You know about this thread here, you know you get good answers quickly in it, so what possible reason is there to go post on facebook?
> 
> I hate facebook, and all the stupid drama associated with that dumpster fire.


I was wondering the same thing in all honesty.


----------



## alphabet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> @Mayhem Thank you for blocking me on facebook, that's very kind of you. I can always write all drama I had with you down here if I really want to. You don't really need to block me. If anybody is wondering, I had similar drama with mayhems as JayTwoCents had. Very unprofessional customer service


Does your if I really want to get you anywhere though? Might as well have posted your troubles instead of posting about how you could.

In theory, Mayhems could block anyone he wants to







if he really wanted to he could post here about the people he blocks









To the point, why not send him a private message and get it resolved? It's good you mention jayztwocents because even after an "apology" he continues to rant and complain about how mayhems tried to rectify the situation. We can't do anything about peoples behavior but at the end of the day you either want a resolution or a problem and it's clear as day when people aren't looking for a resolution, like some people who make a video around what they did say and blatantly ignore their indirect subliminal that contradict the words they did say!


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphabet*
> 
> Does your if I really want to get you anywhere though? Might as well have posted your troubles instead of posting about how you could.
> 
> In theory, Mayhems could block anyone he wants to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if he really wanted to he could post here about the people he blocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To the point, why not send him a private message and get it resolved? It's good you mention jayztwocents because even after an "apology" he continues to rant and complain about how mayhems tried to rectify the situation. We can't do anything about peoples behavior but at the end of the day you either want a resolution or a problem and it's clear as day when people aren't looking for a resolution, like some people who make a video around what they did say and blatantly ignore their indirect subliminal that contradict the words they did say!


That's exactly what I did! The problem is I have contacted via facebook but he completely ignored me!! And yes, he did read all the message I sent him, I know that! I'm not trying to talk about him and I don't have anything against him but the way he treats me and some other people is unacceptable!


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> That's exactly what I did! The problem is I have contacted via facebook but he completely ignored me!! And yes, he did read all the message I sent him, I know that! I'm not trying to talk **** about him and I don't have anything against him but the way he treats me and some other people is unacceptable!


While I don't know the situation, nor the context of it, I will say this as a general rule of thumb. Running a business is stressful and who knows what all other things are going on in their personal lives at the moment that could be adding to it. ALWAYS prose any messages, questions, or concerns in as easy going and calm, friendly manner. Words like "Unacceptable" and the such, while they may be valid, can easily be enough to get blown off and completely ignored in some situations. Always prose it in a manner where you are the victim of your own human error regardless. (again I'm not saying you did this, but this info is good for everyone and always helps prevent issues in the future)

Here is a half template:
Hey Mick,
Sorry to bother you, but I have a bit of a problem [insert what your symptoms and/or problems are]. I don't know if I screwed something up, or if there may have been an issue with product X Y or z, or maybe something else entirely, I don't know. Regardless, I'm kinda stuck with this issue and have no idea how to proceed. If you have any ideas or thoughts on how to rectify it, I would really appreciate it.

Again, Sorry to bother you, I know you are busy and have a lot of stuff going on, so if you aren't sure how I can fix this mess it isn't a big deal. Your the expert on these sorts of things obviously so, obviously if anyone knows how to fix this, it would be you.

Thanks a ton. Appreciate all the hard work you do btw









~[insert your name/screen name]

Once the aggressive words and demands start rolling, the odds of getting any help go down exponentially. Probably once a month I have to deal with some jackwagon who pulls that crap (and I will know he is either mistaken or lying), and if I've been having a bad day, that person will get the pleasure of seeing just how colorful my vocabulary can be and promptly be banned. I don't have time to deal with that nonsense, and Mic is the same way I assume.

Edit: Again, I'm not saying you did any of this, I don't know the situation, nor is it any of my business to know it. This is just a friendly tip for everyone in general.


----------



## vilius572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> While I don't know the situation, nor the context of it, I will say this as a general rule of thumb. Running a business is stressful and who knows what all other things are going on in their personal lives at the moment that could be adding to it. ALWAYS prose any messages, questions, or concerns in as easy going and calm, friendly manner. Words like "Unacceptable" and the such, while they may be valid, can easily be enough to get blown off and completely ignored in some situations. Always prose it in a manner where you are the victim of your own human error regardless. (again I'm not saying you did this, but this info is good for everyone and always helps prevent issues in the future)
> 
> Here is a half template:
> Hey Mick,
> Sorry to bother you, but I have a bit of a problem [insert what your symptoms and/or problems are]. I don't know if I screwed something up, or if there may have been an issue with product X Y or z, or maybe something else entirely, I don't know. Regardless, I'm kinda stuck with this issue and have no idea how to proceed. If you have any ideas or thoughts on how to rectify it, I would really appreciate it.
> 
> Again, Sorry to bother you, I know you are busy and have a lot of stuff going on, so if you aren't sure how I can fix this mess it isn't a big deal. Your the expert on these sorts of things obviously so, obviously if anyone knows how to fix this, it would be you.
> 
> Thanks a ton. Appreciate all the hard work you do btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~[insert your name/screen name]
> 
> Once the aggressive words and demands start rolling, the odds of getting any help go down exponentially. Probably once a month I have to deal with some jackwagon who pulls that crap (and I will know he is either mistaken or lying), and if I've been having a bad day, that person will get the pleasure of seeing just how colorful my vocabulary can be and promptly be banned. I don't have time to deal with that nonsense, and Mic is the same way I assume.
> 
> Edit: Again, I'm not saying you did any of this, I don't know the situation, nor is it any of my business to know it. This is just a friendly tip for everyone in general.


Thank You! I was polite to him and all but as I said earlier he ignored me completely which pissed me off a bit. I can't really tell if that was him (I don't know exactly who runs their page on facebook). However I'm not the first person having bad experience with their customer service. Well, next time I will be buying EK Pastel coolant and not Mayhems even if it's still made by mayhems. I believe EK will treat me better as a customer.


----------



## alphabet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vilius572*
> 
> Thank You! I was polite to him and all but as I said earlier he ignored me completely which pissed me off a bit. I can't really tell if that was him (I don't know exactly who runs their page on facebook). However I'm not the first person having bad experience with their customer service. Well, next time I will be buying EK Pastel coolant and not Mayhems even if it's still made by mayhems. I believe EK will treat me better as a customer.


Or you could try support on their website and not social media.















http://www.mayhems.co.uk/mayhems/index.php/support/product-support


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Don't worry you are just one of about 5000+ people removed from his "personal" accounts.

From speaking with Mick he no longer does support for Mayhems Solutions Ltd and this has been said in this thread, If you need direct support you go through the support page over at www.mayhems.net like any normal person would and you use their new customer relations team that "Mayhems Solutions Ltd" employs.



He also goes on later to give a short but quick explanation why.



Mick also no longer runs any "Mayhems" or "Mayhem" Forum pages as these have been all handed over to his support staff to take over "if" they feel they need to.

Direct quote from chats with Mick "OCN has some of the best and most knowledgeable forum users i ever seen on the OCN Mayhems support page and do not need me." this is also shown on there page here suggesting uses, use OCN for self support http://support.mayhems.net/pages/self-support-forums

Mick has also stated he is not a CEO, he is a director of Mayhems as is Steve, he is rubbish at direct support (Mick's words not mine) and he no longer has the time to do direct support.

I can also say Mayhems Solutions Ltd since the new year has employed over 3 more new staff full time to help out there are that busy.

From what i have seen Mayhems has improved there support and taken a very professional approach with dealing with consumers. Mick in the past has hand held and personally helped thousands of users in the past and simply can no longer afford the time to take that approach any longer.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

So, I will ask again since no one answered before. What color fleck is in Aurora red? I plan to get some booster and need to know if it's gold or silver. Not really sure just looking at it. I think it's silver.


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> So, I will ask again since no one answered before. What color fleck is in Aurora red? I plan to get some booster and need to know if it's gold or silver. Not really sure just looking at it. I think it's silver.


Why do you need Aurora Booster? It's mainly for show systems and to be drained after 2-3 months.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> Why do you need Aurora Booster? It's mainly for show systems and to be drained after 2-3 months.


I am aware. I just want to see if I can extend things a bit. Worst case, I have to clean the rig out. Not a huge deal.


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> I am aware. I just want to see if I can extend things a bit. Worst case, I have to clean the rig out. Not a huge deal.


It looks dark. So maybe it has Gold in it. However, if you want to lighten it up a bit, I would use Aurora Booster 2 - Silver. FYI, I have not personally dealt with Aurora fluids.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

I have about 2/3 of a bottle left. Maybe i will just drain the res and put new stuff in. Should help i would think.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Well, I just ended up draining the res and refilling with some of the extra Aurora I had. Looks better now. And now it has me wondering. Since the particles are settling someplace where there is dead flow, you would think that if you keep topping off with fresh fluid it should level out at some point. I think I might order some more and keep topping off as the effect fades and see what happens. It will either level off at some point or the loop will get plugged up. Either way is fine since in 6 months to a year I will be tearing down for upgrades anyway. I will just open the blocks up and see what is what. The GPU's look fine. I can see in them with the plexi tops. No obvious buildup at least. Should be an interesting experiment.


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Well, I just ended up draining the res and refilling with some of the extra Aurora I had. Looks better now. And now it has me wondering. Since the particles are settling someplace where there is dead flow, you would think that if you keep topping off with fresh fluid it should level out at some point. I think I might order some more and keep topping off as the effect fades and see what happens. It will either level off at some point or the loop will get plugged up. Either way is fine since in 6 months to a year I will be tearing down for upgrades anyway. I will just open the blocks up and see what is what. The GPU's look fine. I can see in them with the plexi tops. No obvious buildup at least. Should be an interesting experiment.


What about your rads? You take them apart and inspect the insides of those. You will ruin your hardware if you continue to top off the fluids with Aurora. But what do I know??? It's not my money or problem.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

How will the hardware be ruined?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> How will the hardware be ruined?


Only way I see that is if it some how totally plugs off the water channels in a rad. But, I have a buddy with an optical scope I can use to look inside the rads. Same kind you use to look inside an engine spark plug hole.


----------



## amoliski

What's unacceptable is using someone's personal social media accounts/contact information to handle business problems. He shouldn't have to be working customer support 24/7- he, like everyone else, deserves time off. If a customer of my company tried to contact me over business-related issues on my personal accounts, I'd block them too!


----------



## emsj86

I block anyone that calls my cell for work as well. A customer should not call my personal number.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I block anyone that calls my cell for work as well. A customer should not call my personal number.


This!!
What is wrong with writing emails or using regular customer support channels to resolve customer service issues? If these channels don't function as they should, it is legitimate to post in forums and such. Contacting a vendor personally simply because you have their contact information, unless you have explicitly been invited to do so, is just stalking. What would give a customer the right to pester and bully a vendor, especially over a purchase that is worth a few dozen, or at most, a couple hundred, bucks?
Some reps, including (until recently) Mick, Geno at Monsoon, and a few others, are really open and approachable by customers, because THEY think it is in THEIR best business interests to behave that way. It's by no means their obligation or their customers' right. Abusing this attitude by acting as though they have no private lives and no right to intimacy, and constantly intruding upon their personal lives with stuff that could be handled through business mechanisms is a surefire way to ensure they will retreat behind a protective barrier like the rest of us. There is no reason short of a life and death emergency --as unlikely in my business as if one is selling, say, fittings or dye --that would lead me to put up with one of my clients getting the idea that it was ok to pester me on facebook, call my personal phone, or send messages to my personal email.
Don't stalk people. Don't bully people. Respect others. Some basic rules of social behavior that some people fail to comprehend!


----------



## emsj86

Totally agree. That and sometimes patience is needed. You have to sometimes understand your not the end all be all customer. They may be busy or your a number that there still working on to get to. It's like when you sell something on eBay.m and you wake up in the morning after it sold at 1am with 20 emails that start off nice to why aren't you answering me to just mean. When You literally just woke up and haven't even had a chance to reply.


----------



## Kostadinos

900D Full Custom Dual Αcrylic Loop

First Loop Is Almost Done,Hope you like it


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Well, I just ended up draining the res and refilling with some of the extra Aurora I had. Looks better now. And now it has me wondering. Since the particles are settling someplace where there is dead flow, you would think that if you keep topping off with fresh fluid it should level out at some point. I think I might order some more and keep topping off as the effect fades and see what happens. It will either level off at some point or the loop will get plugged up. Either way is fine since in 6 months to a year I will be tearing down for upgrades anyway. I will just open the blocks up and see what is what. The GPU's look fine. I can see in them with the plexi tops. No obvious buildup at least. Should be an interesting experiment.


I've been using aurora for a bit now and am having better luck now than I was at first. My first run I was using a underpowered ddc and it worked for about a week but then the particles completely settled in just a few days and I was left with basically a blue coolant. I disassembled my loop and found that there was a LOT built up in my EK supremacy MX block and in my front 240mm rad, some in the back 120mm.
I've since switched to a twin d5 setup (bay res







) and changed the orientation of some of my components to hopefully have gravity help me out with the drop out. What I mean by that is that I rotated my CPU block so that the outlet was closest to the bottom instead of mounting the block "right side up" so that the EK badge is oriented correctly (that put the outlet on the right, in the middle of the block). I also flipped my front 240mm rad so that the ports are on the bottom instead of the top and I ditched my rear 120mm rad for a top 280mm.

Now with the D5's on 1-2 I get a slightly better flowrate as my previous setup but I have noticed little to no dropout over the last three months. And while writing this I cranked both d5's to 5 for a bit (the first time in at least a month) and noticed little to no difference after turning them back to their normal 1-2. I was expecting the huge increase in flowrate/pressure to pick up a decent amount of settled particles after being so low for so long but I couldn't notice anything.

I'm switching to a single d5 pump/res and hardlining next week so I'll be tearing everything apart hopefully next Tuesday, I'll let you know what I find.

Oh and its totally worth the maintenance! dat $#!% is beautiful


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I've been using aurora for a bit now and am having better luck now than I was at first. My first run I was using a underpowered ddc and it worked for about a week but then the particles completely settled in just a few days and I was left with basically a blue coolant. I disassembled my loop and found that there was a LOT built up in my EK supremacy MX block and in my front 240mm rad, some in the back 120mm.
> I've since switched to a twin d5 setup (bay res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and changed the orientation of some of my components to hopefully have gravity help me out with the drop out. What I mean by that is that I rotated my CPU block so that the outlet was closest to the bottom instead of mounting the block "right side up" so that the EK badge is oriented correctly (that put the outlet on the right, in the middle of the block). I also flipped my front 240mm rad so that the ports are on the bottom instead of the top and I ditched my rear 120mm rad for a top 280mm.
> 
> Now with the D5's on 1-2 I get a slightly better flowrate as my previous setup but I have noticed little to no dropout over the last three months. And while writing this I cranked both d5's to 5 for a bit (the first time in at least a month) and noticed little to no difference after turning them back to their normal 1-2. I was expecting the huge increase in flowrate/pressure to pick up a decent amount of settled particles after being so low for so long but I couldn't notice anything.
> 
> I'm switching to a single d5 pump/res and hardlining next week so I'll be tearing everything apart hopefully next Tuesday, I'll let you know what I find.
> 
> Oh and its totally worth the maintenance! dat $#!% is beautiful


Good stuff. I am using the single D5 on 5 at all times. My bottom rad fills from the bottom and out the top. My main thought there was to make it easier to bleed since the bottom half fills first just by dumping fluid in. By the time the fluid back filled to the pump and res it filled the whole 480 rad and was already coming up the tube to the GPU's. Maybe come refill time I will add a second pump.


----------



## emsj86

Will the brass chrome 12mm bits power tubing have any concerns with using pastel with it. Really think I may take the leap and go for the chrome look


----------



## 414347

*Kostadinos*! nice and clean build and i like the background you used for your photos


----------



## eucalyptus

Okay, filled my loops and put in some Mayhem.

The first 2 pictures is with only a spoon of Pastel Ice white.

And then the difference between "frosted/frozen" water and just clear water.




Then I added Mayhem UV-green in both the frosted loop and the clear loop.

And you can clearly see the difference.





The pictures lies a lot, the one with pastel in it sucks in real life! It looks awful and I am trying to get it out now.

But pure uv-green looks amazing!


----------



## M3TAl

So you literally put in a tiny amount of pastel? Why?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> So you literally put in a tiny amount of pastel? Why?


He pretty well explained that in one sentence. Creating a frosted/frozen look.


----------



## M3TAl

Well of course it looks bad, it was never intended to be used in such a way.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well of course it looks bad, it was never intended to be used in such a way.


"Experts built the Titanic, an amateur built the Ark".


----------



## Chiobe

I'm building a loop where only the reservoir will show the liquid, what version would be best for thermals?
Original Ice Dragon, Mayhems Extreme pastel or old X1?

I know a lot of people would say straight distilled water, but I like the other stuff in premix liquid and dont want to try and figure out the right mix of additives, every single time.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> I'm building a loop where only the reservoir will show the liquid, what version would be best for thermals?
> Original Ice Dragon, Mayhems Extreme pastel or old X1?
> 
> I know a lot of people would say straight distilled water, but I like the other stuff in premix liquid and dont want to try and figure out the right mix of additives, every single time.


Well.. distilled with biocide. Other than that, use X1.


----------



## D0U8L3M

So I'm having an issue with my loop, I recently just did the whole cleaning process with the mayhems blitz pro kit and followed the instructions to a T, and verified with mayhems own video on youtube.

After the lengthy cleaning process, I then filled the system with some uv white pastel and put a few drops of the blue non-stain dye. if I let the system sit over night or for a day off you can clearly see the dye separating from the pastel in my bay res, and watch it mix in again when i power the system on. I can get pics tomorrow (since I'm running the system now) but is there any way i can prevent this? I can only imagine what kind of crap is getting gunked up in my CPU block.

I have to wait to get my PH tester replacement (i think it already arrived at my house but im at school right now) as the one that was in my kit came damaged and then ill be able to report some PH results.

Any help/ideas? Should i even be worried about it?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Was it Mayhems dye?


----------



## D0U8L3M

yup mayhems everything dye coolant and tubing with xspc rads, fittings, and raystorm block, and a frozenq bay res


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M*
> 
> yup mayhems everything dye coolant and tubing with xspc rads, fittings, and raystorm block, and a frozenq bay res


What uv white pastel from Mayhem's did you use? The following is from mayhem's own website:

Warning
To keep the nonstaining abilty it must be mixed with Ultra Pure H20, Pastel Ice White, X1 clear or XT-1 clear only. Mixing Nonstaining dyes with any premixed coloured coolants will result in a staining product.
Mayhems non stain dyes contain a biocide that is compatible with Mayhems current range of products (X1, XT1, Pastel, Aurora). They have not been tested on any other manufactured fluids.

Maybe you did not get all of the part two out of your system. Sounds like what has been going on for other users on this site.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Dam I must have read that too fast when I did, i used the UV white pastel, but from what it seems is that ill just loose the fact that its non staining, it says its compatible with the range of mayhems coolants.

I rinsed the loop 3 times and shook the crap out of the radiators with distiled water in them to try to clean them as thoroughly as possible.

Either way do you think I can run the system like this for a little while? Kinda broke since i cant work during the semester and i dont really wanna spend another 40$ on coolant haha, although i guess i could always just run straight distilled water with a silver kill coil if its a bad idea. I do have some dye left over so maybe that's an option...just sucks if i have to drain this again as the pastel looks good but what a waste of $$ =[

pretty dissapointed with mayhems so far, my first run with x1 stained the crap out of my old tubing and gunked up my cpu block, but i figured maybe the primochill cleaning crap caused the issue so i got the cleaning kit to try to follow all of mayhems instructions and reccomendations as best i could and only ran their products...not a happy customer here =/


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M*
> 
> So I'm having an issue with my loop, I recently just did the whole cleaning process with the mayhems blitz pro kit and followed the instructions to a T, and verified with mayhems own video on youtube.
> 
> After the lengthy cleaning process, I then filled the system with some uv white pastel and put a few drops of the blue non-stain dye. if I let the system sit over night or for a day off you can clearly see the dye separating from the pastel in my bay res, and watch it mix in again when i power the system on. I can get pics tomorrow (since I'm running the system now) but is there any way i can prevent this? I can only imagine what kind of crap is getting gunked up in my CPU block.
> 
> I have to wait to get my PH tester replacement (i think it already arrived at my house but im at school right now) as the one that was in my kit came damaged and then ill be able to report some PH results.
> 
> Any help/ideas? Should i even be worried about it?


Separation happens when you let the coolant sit for a while. I've used pastel white and yellow and both did it. I let my computer sit for over two weeks andy res looked like it had water that was dyed yellow. As soon as I turned my pc on, it all mixed back together and didn't cause any problems. I recently tore my loop down and there was absolutely zero pastel particals gunked up anywhere in the loop.


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> Separation happens when you let the coolant sit for a while. I've used pastel white and yellow and both did it. I let my computer sit for over two weeks andy res looked like it had water that was dyed yellow. As soon as I turned my pc on, it all mixed back together and didn't cause any problems. I recently tore my loop down and there was absolutely zero pastel particals gunked up anywhere in the loop.


I agree with this user. Just use it until you do the next system clean. I am currently using Blueberry Pastel with no separation in my reservoir. I am also going to switch to Durelene tubing since I've been reading up on Primochill's issue with plasticizer leaching out of their Advanced LRT tubing and I kind of have that issue slightly in my drain line.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M*
> 
> So I'm having an issue with my loop, I recently just did the whole cleaning process with the mayhems blitz pro kit and followed the instructions to a T, and verified with mayhems own video on youtube.
> 
> After the lengthy cleaning process, I then filled the system with some uv white pastel and put a few drops of the blue non-stain dye. if I let the system sit over night or for a day off you can clearly see the dye separating from the pastel in my bay res, and watch it mix in again when i power the system on. I can get pics tomorrow (since I'm running the system now) but is there any way i can prevent this? I can only imagine what kind of crap is getting gunked up in my CPU block.
> 
> I have to wait to get my PH tester replacement (i think it already arrived at my house but im at school right now) as the one that was in my kit came damaged and then ill be able to report some PH results.
> 
> Any help/ideas? Should i even be worried about it?


I am using pastel white with blue dye. I get a small amount of separation at the top of my res. It has to do with more of the particles falling out of suspension than anything else I believe. I haven't had any issues with it clogging my loop up and it goes away as soon as I start my PC up again. Remember that the pastel does use nanoparticles as well. I wouldn't be too worried about it unless it doesn't mix back up after turning it back on.


----------



## D0U8L3M

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> I agree with this user. Just use it until you do the next system clean. I am currently using Blueberry Pastel with no separation in my reservoir. I am also going to switch to Durelene tubing since I've been reading up on Primochill's issue with plasticizer leaching out of their Advanced LRT tubing and I kind of have that issue slightly in my drain line.


Well this is good to hear because I really didn't wanna have to deal with draining this huge PC again haha. I think ill still test the PH when I get the new tester up here just to make sure that its at normal levels, but other than that the separated color mixes right back up when I turn the PC on so I should be fine there.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> I agree with this user. Just use it until you do the next system clean. I am currently using Blueberry Pastel with no separation in my reservoir. I am also going to switch to Durelene tubing since I've been reading up on Primochill's issue with plasticizer leaching out of their Advanced LRT tubing and I kind of have that issue slightly in my drain line.


My experiences with durelene using Pastel and later X1 have been not very good. Adv LRT did a better job.

Just got a new loop with Mayhems tubing and Adv LRT with white pastel extreme up and running.


----------



## maybach123

i know the post above is just about durelene but i was wondering if anything should confilc with x1 in my build i am using alpha cool black nickel tubing ekwb waterblocks and rad and a frozen q res i dont think anything should conflict but just checking


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> My experiences with durelene using Pastel and later X1 have been not very good. Adv LRT did a better job.
> 
> Just got a new loop with Mayhems tubing and Adv LRT with white pastel extreme up and running.


How do you like Mayhem's new tubing? Better looking than Primochill's?


----------



## electro2u

double post


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maybach123*
> 
> i know the post above is just about durelene but i was wondering if anything should confilc with x1 in my build i am using alpha cool black nickel tubing ekwb waterblocks and rad and a frozen q res i dont think anything should conflict but just checking


How do you rate the mayhems tubing? I've got some ordered just waiting for it to get delivered and I'll be doing a quick and dirty pvc tubing run before getting my stuff together for my hardline tubing.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M*
> 
> Dam I must have read that too fast when I did, i used the UV white pastel, but from what it seems is that ill just loose the fact that its non staining, it says its compatible with the range of mayhems coolants.
> 
> I rinsed the loop 3 times and shook the crap out of the radiators with distiled water in them to try to clean them as thoroughly as possible.
> 
> Either way do you think I can run the system like this for a little while? Kinda broke since i cant work during the semester and i dont really wanna spend another 40$ on coolant haha, although i guess i could always just run straight distilled water with a silver kill coil if its a bad idea. I do have some dye left over so maybe that's an option...just sucks if i have to drain this again as the pastel looks good but what a waste of $$ =[
> 
> pretty dissapointed with mayhems so far, my first run with x1 stained the crap out of my old tubing and gunked up my cpu block, but i figured maybe the primochill cleaning crap caused the issue so i got the cleaning kit to try to follow all of mayhems instructions and reccomendations as best i could and only ran their products...not a happy customer here =/


I feel your pain. I've had very fast and very stark separation of pastel occur (hours) and I do believe it had a lot to do with blitz part 2. I hate to say it, but my experience with this tells me you've done maybe 5% of the total flushing of your radiators that you will want to do when you are ready to tear down--for now it's fine. Luckily all you actually need to do is set your radiator in your sink so that the tap water runs right in one of the ports at full power and is gushing out of the other port. Turn it on hot and leave it for 20-30 min for each radiator--this will allow any residue from low flow areas of the rads to be completely dissolved and expelled. Then flush each rad with distilled carefully and you can set up the system dry and add the pastel after if you like.

Another reason I think fast separation can occur is if you have had to dilute remaining pure water from your system as you are filling with pastel. If there is a lot of pure water that has been mixed in, the mixture of pastel will be too thin. If you are using premix and there is water left in your system during filling, you have to waste a bunch of the pastel as you drain and refill to correct the mixture (and it will always be a little thinner than optimal). One annoying way around this is to calculate how much coolant your system holds and then calculate how much is left in your system after draining. Using concentrate you can then overmix the ratio of pastel to h2o to compensate for the pure water left in the system.

P.S. Mayhems Non-staining dye is designed to not stain carpet, hands, hard surfaces, non-porous.
Your soft tubing will still stain in time no matter what.
Acrylic wont stain, blocks wont stain with regular dye.


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> How do you rate the mayhems tubing? I've got some ordered just waiting for it to get delivered and I'll be doing a quick and dirty pvc tubing run before getting my stuff together for my hardline tubing.


i think you quoted the wrong guy i dont use mayhems tubing just their x1 fluid


----------



## jodybdesigns

Does Mayhems tubing only come in 1/2" x 3/4"?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Does Mayhems tubing only come in 1/2" x 3/4"?


Also comes in 3/8" X 5/8" which I'm using. I like it just fine but I'm no tubing aficionado haha. It has a tiny blue tint to it. Only time will tell how it holds up.

Also ordered some Barrow fittings and I have to say they are nice! Honestly they seem to be rebranded bitspower fittings at a much less expensive price, in fact they were the least expensive compression fittings on the site.


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Also comes in 3/8" X 5/8" which I'm using. I like it just fine but I'm no tubing aficionado haha. It has a tiny blue tint to it. Only time will tell how it holds up.
> 
> Also ordered some Barrow fittings and I have to say they are nice! Honestly they seem to be rebranded bitspower fittings at a much less expensive price, in fact they were the least expensive compression fittings on the site.


What website did you use to buy Barrow Compression Fittings?


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> P.S. Mayhems Non-staining dye is designed to not stain carpet, hands, hard surfaces, non-porous.
> Your soft tubing will still stain in time no matter what.
> Acrylic wont stain, blocks wont stain with regular dye.


Not really true. It has stained some od my White desk after a leak (mixed with x1). But some of it can be cleaned.


----------



## Mattmax

is someone using Primochill Vortex with Mayhems Pastell Red?
I wanna know if you can see the Spinning wheel through the coolant or if it is impossible to see the effect of the Primochill Vortex.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> What website did you use to buy Barrow Compression Fittings?


I got the Barrow fittings as well and very happy with them. ModMyMods.com has them!


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> What website did you use to buy Barrow Compression Fittings?


You can get them even cheaper from Pccoolings on EBAY. Bought lots of stuff from them.


----------



## gdubc

Barrow, I think Purloin would have been a more fitting name for their company, lol.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Barrow, I think Purloin would have been a more fitting name for their company, lol.


Off-topic for the Mayhems but does anyone know if they are actually rebranded Bitspower fittings? The Barrow bulkhead I got seems identical in every way to the Bitspower bulkhead.

Barrow...Borrow Bitspower's fittings haha.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Off-topic for the Mayhems but does anyone know if they are actually rebranded Bitspower fittings? The Barrow bulkhead I got seems identical in every way to the Bitspower bulkhead.
> 
> Barrow...Borrow Bitspower's fittings haha.


They are not rebranded or OEM from Bitspower. They just look identical sans the Bitspower logos.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Off-topic for the Mayhems but does anyone know if they are actually rebranded Bitspower fittings? The Barrow bulkhead I got seems identical in every way to the Bitspower bulkhead.
> 
> Barrow...Borrow Bitspower's fittings haha.


They are not.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Definitely not rebranded, borrow aren't bad though (well the compressions I've used are nice)
Barrow on left and BP on right


----------



## Touge180SX

My Barrow compression fittings look great, especially for the price!


----------



## Alpina 7

Great thread. Subbed.

Planning on adding Pastel blood red to my build along clear tubing to my system. Anyone have any recommendations on getting it as RED UV REACTIVE as possible?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah I snagged a bunch at $3/fitting


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah I snagged a bunch at $3/fitting


From the Ebay seller?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Great thread. Subbed.
> 
> Planning on adding Pastel blood red to my build along clear tubing to my system. Anyone have any recommendations on getting it as RED UV REACTIVE as possible?


Use cold cathodes and add a ton of UV pink dye.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Use cold cathodes and add a ton of UV pink dye.


ok thanks for that.. got a pic of how it would look ?

thank alot.. repped


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> ok thanks for that.. got a pic of how it would look ?
> 
> thank alot.. repped


Honestly, I think you'll find that pastel and UV red are hard to pull off.

This is meant to be pink, so it's not the best example, but you can see when he adds the pastel it just about completely deadens the UV effect.



To me the most striking examples of UV red come from UV red tubing.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Use cold cathodes and add a ton of UV pink dye.


Isn't UV pink dye toxic? or is that orange, I forget. Mick said one of them is toxic so they don't sell it.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Honestly, I think you'll find that pastel and UV red are hard to pull off.
> 
> This is meant to be pink, so it's not the best example, but you can see when he adds the pastel it just about completely deadens the UV effect.
> 
> 
> 
> To me the most striking examples of UV red come from UV red tubing.


very nice... i guess ill look up more info and see what i want to do. nice pics though. do you have a thread for this?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Isn't UV pink dye toxic? or is that orange, I forget. Mick said one of them is toxic so they don't sell it.


do you know which one?


----------



## b0gd4n

hey,

I am about to start my watercoolig project and wanted some advice on one matter before going ahead:

I will be using the UV Lime Yellow Pastel mix and will be adding to this some Pastel Mint Green concentrate to get it to turn green.

I am looking to get some sort of UV light inside the case to react with the coolant. I was looking into the Phobya uv led strip, but I noticed some people complaining that it fades the UV inside some Mayhems coolants. I just wanted to check before buying the lights.

If so, can someone recommend something else? Would prefer LEDs, but can be ok with cathodes.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0gd4n*
> 
> hey,
> 
> I am about to start my watercoolig project and wanted some advice on one matter before going ahead:
> 
> I will be using the UV Lime Yellow Pastel mix and will be adding to this some Pastel Mint Green concentrate to get it to turn green.
> 
> I am looking to get some sort of UV light inside the case to react with the coolant. I was looking into the Phobya uv led strip, but I noticed some people complaining that it fades the UV inside some Mayhems coolants. I just wanted to check before buying the lights.
> 
> If so, can someone recommend something else? Would prefer LEDs, but can be ok with cathodes.


Darksides UV leds are hands down the best I think. I have them myself and never had any issues with them.


----------



## b0gd4n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Darksides UV leds are hands down the best I think. I have them myself and never had any issues with them.


have them with mayhems uv coolant?


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0gd4n*
> 
> have them with mayhems uv coolant?


Not in my current setup, I use UV tubing and Ek blue UV coolant. That said, Darkside leds are generally well regarded by people around here I think. Maybe you can wait for someone who uses them with Mayhem dyes if you have concerns.


----------



## b0gd4n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Not in my current setup, I use UV tubing and Ek blue UV coolant. That said, Darkside leds are generally well regarded by people around here I think. Maybe you can wait for someone who uses them with Mayhem dyes if you have concerns.


alright, so you use it with some sort of uv coolant, and there's no sign of fading?


----------



## electro2u

UV coolant will always fade over time. People add new UV dye to boost it back up again.

Darksides UV LEDs are great (i use them), but for that true black light effect, need cold cathodes. Any other type give a lot more color and a lot less UV.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah I snagged a bunch at $3/fitting


WHERE!?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> UV coolant will always fade over time. People add new UV dye to boost it back up again.
> 
> Darksides UV LEDs are great (i use them), but for that true black light effect, need cold cathodes. Any other type give a lot more color and a lot less UV.


I thought he meant LED fading.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> From the Ebay seller?


Yeah the guy in TX

YGPM @jodybdesigns


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Honestly, I think you'll find that pastel and UV red are hard to pull off.
> 
> This is meant to be pink, so it's not the best example, but you can see when he adds the pastel it just about completely deadens the UV effect.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To me the most striking examples of UV red come from UV red tubing.


To be honest I kinda like the way the UV pink with the pastel looks. That dead look makes it seem more, I don't know, ghostly? Looks like something out of ghost busters.

Think I might do that with my current build. Wonder how much UV dye it will take to turn red pastel UV :/


----------



## Basiletech

What is the "life Span" for the Aurora coolant? I've been told it doesn't last long


----------



## slippyturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0gd4n*
> 
> hey,
> 
> I am about to start my watercoolig project and wanted some advice on one matter before going ahead:
> 
> I will be using the UV Lime Yellow Pastel mix and will be adding to this some Pastel Mint Green concentrate to get it to turn green.
> 
> I am looking to get some sort of UV light inside the case to react with the coolant. I was looking into the Phobya uv led strip, but I noticed some people complaining that it fades the UV inside some Mayhems coolants. I just wanted to check before buying the lights.
> 
> If so, can someone recommend something else? Would prefer LEDs, but can be ok with cathodes.


Just add a few drops of Mayhem's blue dye to the the UV Lime Yellow pastel to turn it the shade of green you want. I'm using Darkside UV led strips. UV reaction is still going strong after a year of use.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah the guy in TX
> 
> YGPM @jodybdesigns


Thanks! Is this the Pccoolings guy? He's the one I know about on EBAY that supplies barrow


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> What is the "life Span" for the Aurora coolant? I've been told it doesn't last long


was wondering this myself


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> What is the "life Span" for the Aurora coolant? I've been told it doesn't last long


Mine started to settle out after about a month. Still there, but much weaker effect. Testing adding more fresh coola t to see if it plugs up or stablizes. Just curious to see what happens. Will report back as i find out.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Can't remember but is it ok to add distilled to a premixed X1, say if I had to top off a loop after a bleeding etc

Somehow I'm thinking it's ok but not recommended


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Can't remember but is it ok to add distilled to a premixed X1, say if I had to top off a loop after a bleeding etc
> 
> Somehow I'm thinking it's ok but not recommended


I've done this before with X1. As long as it's not diluted too much, how much is too much?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ok, I had to change a line out so I topped off with some distilled I had, it was that or use Mint Green Pastel lol. I am due for changing my fluid soon too which I plan on doing once I can order some Thermal Grizzly hydronaut


----------



## Alpina 7

Does anyone know if this is correct and if so if this is still the case? Reason i ask is because i was planning on getting that exact tubing when i got the rest of my stuff directly from EK...


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Does anyone know if this is correct and if so if this is still the case? Reason i ask is because i was planning on getting that exact tubing when i got the rest of my stuff directly from EK...


Since that post is from 2012 I'm guessing they are referring to PRO tubing and not the ADVANCED tubing from primochill. The pro is full of plasticizer but the advanced is fine. I'm using primochill tubing with my pastel without any issues. My next build I will be using the mayhems tubing or going with hardlines.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Since that post is from 2012 I'm guessing they are referring to PRO tubing and not the ADVANCED tubing from primochill. The pro is full of plasticizer but the advanced is fine. I'm using primochill tubing with my pastel without any issues. My next build I will be using the mayhems tubing or going with hardlines.


Yea old post, But i wanted to be sure..

is there a pro when going with mayhems tubing over primochill?


----------



## M3TAl

The price... Much more reasonable.


----------



## DarthBaggins

For the price is go with Mayhems tubing, but in my case convenience comes into play since I can go straight to MicroCenter and pick up a box of Advanced LRT and have it in the same day, now if you're just piecing things together and have time then order the Mayhems.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> For the price is go with Mayhems tubing, but in my case convenience comes into play since I can go straight to MicroCenter and pick up a box of Advanced LRT and have it in the same day, now if you're just piecing things together and have time then order the Mayhems.


ok so besides price. What about Quality. or pros and cons. is one superior to the other in any ways..


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> What is the "life Span" for the Aurora coolant? I've been told it doesn't last long


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> was wondering this myself


it depends on your system and how you run it. I've been using it for 5 months from one bottle of concentrate. The first time I was using a weak pump and a few other things that were a little less than ideal. Even when I was using 2x D5's I was still starting to drop out after a couple of months though. Last week I tore down my loop and changed to PETG. I captured all of the aurora in a clean container with a lid and made sure to shake every watercooling component before I dumped it to try and get as much of the settled particles as possible. I put the fluid back in after a couple of days and I think it looks brand new.

It does do best in a simple loop with a very high flowrate though. I believe it is also recommended to use a seperate pump w/top and a tube res if possible.


----------



## JbstormburstADV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> ok so besides price. What about Quality. or pros and cons. is one superior to the other in any ways..


If you want some really objective info regarding Mayhems vs Primochill Advanced LRT, check out this article here. The best part is that this experiment is still ongoing, so we might be able to learn more as time goes on.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> If you want some really objective info regarding Mayhems vs Primochill Advanced LRT, check out this article here. The best part is that this experiment is still ongoing, so we might be able to learn more as time goes on.


Hey thanks man. Looks like it will be a good read. Repped!!


----------



## fast_fate

The tube test with the glycol based XT-1 coolant will be ending sometime in the next week and a final update posted with the pictures.

A new test will start though








- this time with NON glycol based coolant so I can comment freely about both tube types instead of having to bite my tongue and hold back because the Advanced LRT is not recommended for use with glycol based coolant


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The tube test with the glycol based XT-1 coolant will be ending sometime in the next week and a final update posted with the pictures.
> 
> A new test will start though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - this time with NON glycol based coolant so I can comment freely about both tube types instead of having to bite my tongue and hold back because the Advanced LRT is not recommended for use with glycol based coolant


Will be interested in your findings.

I have been running a glycol mix [around 6% glycol the rest distilled] with Advanced LRT for approx 18 months now and all I have noticed is that the tubing has hazed over ever so slightly as compared to a new piece. So far it seems to have held up ok in my rig.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The tube test with the glycol based XT-1 coolant will be ending sometime in the next week and a final update posted with the pictures.
> 
> A new test will start though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - this time with NON glycol based coolant so I can comment freely about both tube types instead of having to bite my tongue and hold back because the Advanced LRT is not recommended for use with glycol based coolant


So, what exactly does glycol coolant do to the tubing? Is that the cause of the discoloration in the first test? Does it eat the tubing?

I ask because i am using it with my Aurora coolant. And i am pretty sure Aurora uses glycol.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The tube test with the glycol based XT-1 coolant will be ending sometime in the next week and a final update posted with the pictures.
> 
> A new test will start though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - this time with NON glycol based coolant so I can comment freely about both tube types instead of having to bite my tongue and hold back because the Advanced LRT is not recommended for use with glycol based coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, what exactly does glycol coolant do to the tubing? Is that the cause of the discoloration in the first test? Does it eat the tubing?
> 
> I ask because i am using it with my Aurora coolant. And i am pretty sure Aurora uses glycol.
Click to expand...

Here's an old quote from Mick on Aurora:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Do not use Aurora with EG.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aurora uses a Glycerol base with biocides and Inhibitors and mixing it with a EG based product could cause an undesirable effect.


I'm not sure if it would react any differently than EG or not, but it's not regular ol' EG that is in the Aurora.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Here's an old quote from Mick on Aurora:
> I'm not sure if it would react any differently than EG or not, but it's not regular ol' EG that is in the Aurora.


Wiuld be nice to know what the "undesirable effect" is. If it is just discoloring I am not too worried. I will just change it out later. But if it is something that can cause failure of the tubing, I would want to change things out sooner. I dont get why people are so vague about stuff like this.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The tube test with the glycol based XT-1 coolant will be ending sometime in the next week and a final update posted with the pictures.
> 
> A new test will start though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - this time with NON glycol based coolant so I can comment freely about both tube types instead of having to bite my tongue and hold back because the Advanced LRT is not recommended for use with glycol based coolant


Love the article. great read. i was going to get the primo Chill but after seeing a side by side comparison.. that yellow tint is killing it for me. ive already changed my mind. im rooting for the mayhems now.. can wait to see the outcome though!


----------



## cyphon

Not normally a UV guy, but think this is going to be happening in my current build

Using dark blue so the fluid is still blue when lighting effects are off. Then I'm using uv clear blue for the UV effect


Since I'm using metal tubing, the res is there only spot where the fluid is visible. This will allow me to accent the fluid with the UV effect and not have to make my entire case purple


----------



## amoliski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Not normally a UV guy, but think this is going to be happening in my current build
> 
> Using dark blue so the fluid is still blue when lighting effects are off. Then I'm using uv clear blue for the UV effect
> 
> 
> Since I'm using metal tubing, the res is there only spot where the fluid is visible. This will allow me to accent the fluid with the UV effect and not have to make my entire case purple


That looks awesome!


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Not normally a UV guy, but think this is going to be happening in my current build
> 
> Using dark blue so the fluid is still blue when lighting effects are off. Then I'm using uv clear blue for the UV effect
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I'm using metal tubing, the res is there only spot where the fluid is visible. This will allow me to accent the fluid with the UV effect and not have to make my entire case purple


That fluid does look great in the UV. How many drops did it take starting with the dark blue fluid?


----------



## fisher6

Is it possible to add Mayhems UV Clear Blue dye to EK UV Blue premixed? The UV effect has started to fade away.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Is it possible to add Mayhems UV Clear Blue dye to EK UV Blue premixed? The UV effect has started to fade away.


Absolutely.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Absolutely.


Awesome. Thanks. Gonna order me some then.


----------



## Benjiw

Hi guys, quick question about UV green, I have 2 projects:

Chernobyl - AMD
Kraken - Intel

For chernobyl I want very green but translucent fluid that's UV green, like nuclear waste if that makes sense.

For Kraken, I want it to be opaque but not sure on how to mix fluids to get that result.

Any suggestions for both?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Hi guys, quick question about UV green, I have 2 projects:
> 
> Chernobyl - AMD
> Kraken - Intel
> 
> For chernobyl I want very green but translucent fluid that's UV green, like nuclear waste if that makes sense.
> 
> For Kraken, I want it to be opaque but not sure on how to mix fluids to get that result.
> 
> Any suggestions for both?


The UV green, go with the laser green dye or UV green dye in something like clear x1. The laser green is more intense but lighter shades

For the opaque one, is that green too? You can get Pastel and then add UV dye to it for the effect


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Man, this thread is depressing. I remember when Mick was still welcome here and would post cool pics all the time. He's gone and now TCO or Z don't even post here anymore


----------



## gdubc

Agreed. Miss seeing Micks posts, and he is missing from Facebook now also. Shame the community has to suffer because of that stupidity.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Agreed. Miss seeing Micks posts, and he is missing from Facebook now also. Shame the community has to suffer because of that stupidity.


I miss Mick too but he shot himself in the foot with what went down. Jay is no better.


----------



## devilhead

Hi, so after using mayhems pastel extreme for 4 months is starting to get bluish again(close to 4 liters distilled and 2 bottles pastel extreme)







so much money i have wasted to blitz products...(i have already 5 glasses and 5ph meters).
Something getting wrong with latest pastel products... half year ago had same problem with pastel white(900D build). But 4 years ago used red pastel without problem for an close to 2 years without discoloration.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I miss Mick too but he shot himself in the foot with what went down. Jay is no better.


I read alot of his micks post on here seemed like a cool level headed guy.. whats the story? what happened ?


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> Hi, so after using mayhems pastel extreme for 4 months is starting to get bluish again(close to 4 liters distilled and 2 bottles pastel extreme)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so much money i have wasted to blitz products...(i have already 5 glasses and 5ph meters).
> Something getting wrong with latest pastel products... half year ago had same problem with pastel white(900D build). But 4 years ago used red pastel without problem for an close to 2 years without discoloration.


Are you using copper sulfate (Dead Water, PT Nuke) by any chance? Not sure how much it matters but I saw that when Blitzing a system that just had water + biocide, it turned the blitz into a blueish color. Probably doesn't matter but I'm not 100% sure.


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Are you using copper sulfate (Dead Water, PT Nuke) by any chance? Not sure how much it matters but I saw that when Blitzing a system that just had water + biocide, it turned the blitz into a blueish color. Probably doesn't matter but I'm not 100% sure.


Never used those stuff, and after using blitz both parts, i'm using lots of distilled water to flush my system (1 liter distilled cost here 1euro...)
So it cost money and lot's of time to flush that system..


----------



## CookieSayWhat

It seems when flushing with the blitz part two you have to do *a lot* of flushing. Some people recommend 12+ flushings of the system. A couple of pages back a couple people had similar experiences due to residue left from blitz part 2 in the system.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> It seems when flushing with the blitz part two you have to do a lot of flushing. Some people recommend 12+ flushings of the system. A couple of pages back a couple people had similar experiences due to residue left from blitz part 2 in the system.


Yes, it takes *a ton* of flashes after using Blitz#2, but once is done, and your system is clear of remains it works great, it keeps your liquid and blocks in tip top shape.
I am going to upload a pics of one of my Heatkiller GPU blocks, maybe later today.
After I took it apart and after has been running for 6 months with distilled and biocide extreme, this is the block 
it looks like brand new, not even slight burned or discoloration it still shines, but I run Blitz #2 after 6 months.

Anyhow, if you running white or exhotic coolant color and remains of Blitz are still present it will turn into darker color and trust me radiators will store a lot of liquid that will not come out, so there might be a lot of blitz there unless you physically remove the rad and flip it many times, you have to flash enormous amount of times, if that make any sense


----------



## rathar3

Got a question for this forum. I just built my first Wc loop and i am now ready to upgrade it.I bought Mayhems 1/2 x 3/4 tubing from PPCS Mayhems Ultra Clear Tubing is what i got. My question is can i use white ice pastel with this tubing?. I want to dye it blue with the new non stain blue.

I have the Mayhems blue dye right now and Mayhems extreme biocide. Also whats the best way to clean/flush the system before i use the Pastel?



This is my current system above changing to a all white sabertooth motherboard and keeping the blue fittings


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> It seems when flushing with the blitz part two you have to do *a lot* of flushing. Some people recommend 12+ flushings of the system. A couple of pages back a couple people had similar experiences due to residue left from blitz part 2 in the system.


I'm using part 2 usally 24 hours


----------



## electro2u

Flushing with tap or distilled is fine and all, but it's important it is high flow and also not just circulating the same distilled through there, you need to repeatedly drain in and refill. I much prefer to hook things up to my faucet to pressure wash them (i use slightly hot water too). And this is what Mayhem recommends on the blitz instructional videos--thats what he does with his whole system--i take mine apart to do it. THEN i wash every thing off with distilled water and put it back together all cleaned up and ready for undiluted coolant.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> Never used those stuff, and after using blitz both parts, i'm using lots of distilled water to flush my system (1 liter distilled cost here 1euro...)
> So it cost money and lot's of time to flush that system..


Are any of your blocks corroding or getting that blueish/green patina? My 290X Lightning block was/is doing that, bet it would turn pastel white that color. I actually just filled with Pastel Extreme White in my new desk/case recently. I did clean the block very heavily with salt and lemon juice to remove the patina but I'm sure over time it will turn blue/green again. Obviously I neuralized it with bicarb+distilled and flushed it heavily after the salt+lemon.

Here's the block:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








And the desk with Pastel Extreme White:


----------



## Chiobe

Is distilled water needed for flushing and using Mayhems Blits Part 2?

I have 10 liters or so of distilled, but when the loop need around 2 liters to fill (external 1080mm rad), so do I need to reserve the distilled for the last few flushes and the concentrate, so is there any problems using normal tap water up till then?


----------



## CookieSayWhat

If your tap water is decently clean, it would seem okay. Just remember to flush it with distilled at the end.

As others have said, you need pretty decent flow to get everything out of the system.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> If your tap water is decently clean, it would seem okay. Just remember to flush it with distilled at the end.
> 
> As others have said, you need pretty decent flow to get everything out of the system.


Noted. Question.. how do i power my loop without turning my PC on? noob question i know.. For me i have a Ek predator 360


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Noted. Question.. how do i power my loop without turning my PC on? noob question i know.. For me i have a Ek predator 360


Do you have an extra psu? Any will do. You can jump it with a paper clip, that's what I do. Or use your current psu but disconnect everything but the pump, still jump it with a paper clip though.


----------



## devilhead

But whats strange, mayhems pastel white extreme after discoloration pH is 7.6 and mayhems pastel white regular after discoloration pH was 6


----------



## muzammil84

Hi everyone, decided to go for a custom loop for the first time and I have a few questions. Will be using Mayhems pastel uv white with Mayhems clear flexible tubing. Is it a good choice? Am I gonna get discoloration/cloudiness on my hose any soon from using pastel white coolant?
I got some second hand EK rad which is full of some purple thick coolant leftovers



Is it possible to clean it at all? I've read about using diluted vinegar and boiled water, will it work?
Also, how do I prepare my blocks(which are brand new)? Are they supoosed to be ready to use or do I need to clean them too?
Finally, once I got it all clean should I use distilled water first for a leak test and bleeding and then, after a day change it to Mayhems pastel coolant?
Thx for help


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Hi everyone, decided to go for a custom loop for the first time and I have a few questions. Will be using Mayhems pastel uv white with Mayhems clear flexible tubing. Is it a good choice? Am I gonna get discoloration/cloudiness on my hose any soon from using pastel white coolant?
> I got some second hand EK rad which is full of some purple thick coolant leftovers
> Is it possible to clean it at all? I've read about using diluted vinegar and boiled water, will it work?
> Also, how do I prepare my blocks(which are brand new)? Are they supoosed to be ready to use or do I need to clean them too?
> Finally, once I got it all clean should I use distilled water first for a leak test and bleeding and then, after a day change it to Mayhems pastel coolant?
> Thx for help


I really liked mayhem's tubing and the pastel is beautiful! If everything is cleaned properly beforehand, and changed out at least annually, you shouldn't have any issues with discoloration. I believe it is recommended to use Mayhem's Blitz to clean your system before using it, I'm not super knowledgeable about blitz but I know there are 2 parts. I'm not sure if you should use one part or both in this case to be honest so I'd search this thread if no one else responds, because I know it's been discussed regularly. (there is a "search this thread" button up top, VERY helpful for a massive thread like this)

A dirty rad like that, I'd probably try and clean it with hot (maybe not boiling) water and then blitz it, because that looks like a mess haha

I think it helps to use colored coolant for leak testing since it makes leaks a lot more visible. I had a very, very slow weeping from one of my fittings on my rebuild last week and I didn't notice until I put my Aurora in a day later. It left about half of a drop of liquid every day for a few days until I fixed it, and I had no idea, even after 24+ hours of leak testing with distilled water. I suppose it might be a good idea to do a quick leak test with water to make sure that you've got no obvious issues though.

I hope something there is helpful!


----------



## RpeeKooz

pastel white with non stain blue


----------



## 414347

Wow! that blue looks amazing, totally black interior incorporates with that color just perfectly.
What fans are those?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Pretty good looking, but looks like there is a lot of air in the lines coming from the CPU.


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Pretty good looking, but looks like there is a lot of air in the lines coming from the CPU.


Na its just a shadow


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Wow! that blue looks amazing, totally black interior incorporates with that color just perfectly.
> What fans are those?


Cooler master jetflo 120 pwm white led


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Wiuld be nice to know what the "undesirable effect" is. If it is just discoloring I am not too worried. I will just change it out later. But if it is something that can cause failure of the tubing, I would want to change things out sooner. I dont get why people are so vague about stuff like this.


Auto parts guy chiming in here. Ethylene Glycol is the main component of antifreeze, as you undoubtedly know, but different formulations can be incompatible and cause severe coagulation within the radiator, effectively ruining it, which is why when I'm selling anti-freeze I ask what they already have in their car's radiator and if they don't know I sell a universal formulation that is okay to mix. So, if I had to guess, I'd say you'd be risking an unrecoverable issue.


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> pastel white with non stain blue


DAMN!!! I love that blue!!! Kinda make Mayhem's Blueberry Blue a lighter shade of blue. How many drops of the Non-staining dye did you use?


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yamaharacer19*
> 
> DAMN!!! I love that blue!!! Kinda make Mayhem's Blueberry Blue a lighter shade of blue. How many drops of the Non-staining dye did you use?


I used 2 15ml bottles in 4L of pastel white


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> What is the "life Span" for the Aurora coolant? I've been told it doesn't last long


The affect of suits will likely disappear withing a day or two or a few. The coolant will still be good to use just no more effect.


----------



## Ragsters

Does anyone know how the Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning System reacts to nickel plating? I know it cleans the heck out of copper but does it break apart the nickel plating at all?


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Does anyone know how the Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning System reacts to nickel plating? I know it cleans the heck out of copper but does it break apart the nickel plating at all?


Part 1 Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning - For internal use on Copper / Brass radiators only.

So my guess is that you will ruin the nickel plating if you use that on blocks.

The 2nd part is a full system version, so it should work fine with nickel plating.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Does anyone know how the Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning System reacts to nickel plating? I know it cleans the heck out of copper but does it break apart the nickel plating at all?


Part one will eat the plating right off. That is why it is for the rads only. Part two is for the rest of the system as a flush.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Part 1 Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning - For internal use on Copper / Brass radiators only.
> 
> So my guess is that you will ruin the nickel plating if you use that on blocks.
> 
> The 2nd part is a full system version, so it should work fine with nickel plating.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Part one will eat the plating right off. That is why it is for the rads only. Part two is for the rest of the system as a flush.


Thanks guys!


----------



## 0ldChicken

@muzammil84
Part one will eat the plating right off. That is why it is for the rads only. Part two is for the rest of the system as a flush

Part 1 Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning - For internal use on Copper / Brass radiators only.

So my guess is that you will ruin the nickel plating if you use that on blocks.

The 2nd part is a full system version, so it should work fine with nickel plating


----------



## eucalyptus

Mayhem UV green coolant.


----------



## 414347

Nice green UV, this looks like a spaceship


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Mayhem UV green coolant.


Why is it when i see this computer the theme song from close encounters of the third kind plays in my head


----------



## Revan654

Could someone explain what benefit of mayhems pastel extreme is? I'm new to water cooling allot of this is foreign to me.

Is it less maintenance or zero maintence? No need to drain the loop? Or is it something else?


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Could someone explain what benefit of mayhems pastel extreme is? I'm new to water cooling allot of this is foreign to me.
> 
> Is it less maintenance or zero maintence? No need to drain the loop? Or is it something else?


U get more coolant from concentrate









_Pastel Extreme is next evolutionary step in concentrated Nano fluids, being only 100ml in size it can be diluted up to a maximum of 3.5 Ltrs of fluid for colouring._

Normal pastel:

_Add 750mls of Purified water to 250ml of concentrate to make 1 Ltr of liquid_


----------



## Revan654

I know some say they been using it over two years? Any truth to that or would that be pushing my luck?


----------



## Barefooter

Help with dyes please.

I'm rebuilding my rig and wanted to use the Mayhems Pastel Red coolant. This is my first time using Mayhems coolant. When I mixed up the Pastel Red and put in my system, (fully cleaned with Blitz Pro kit), the coolant does not look anything like the picture, it's more of a peach or strawberry milkshake color.

I purchased the coolant around April of last year, it has a manufacture date of January 2015. So I thought maybe it was just old coolant even though it has been stored in a cool, dry and dark place all this time.

I decided to buy more of the Pastel Red, the X1 Red, and the new Pastel Extreme in White with some dyes. I received the coolants late last week, the Pastel Red was manufactured in April 2015, so the coolant I just bought is almost a year old and it looks just the same as the first batch I have.

I mixed up the X1 Red and it's too dark, so not going to use that either.

I mixed up half of the Pastel Extreme White, added 12 drops of Red dye, and just have pink fluid now. I added 12 drops of the Deep Red dye, still just have pink color. I'll dump all the dye in there if I need to, but I want a red color like it shows on the Pastel Red picture. I also have Blue dye.

Can anyone give me direction from here. I need RED!


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Help with dyes please.
> 
> I'm rebuilding my rig and wanted to use the Mayhems Pastel Red coolant. This is my first time using Mayhems coolant. When I mixed up the Pastel Red and put in my system, (fully cleaned with Blitz Pro kit), the coolant does not look anything like the picture, it's more of a peach or strawberry milkshake color.
> 
> I purchased the coolant around April of last year, it has a manufacture date of January 2015. So I thought maybe it was just old coolant even though it has been stored in a cool, dry and dark place all this time.
> 
> I decided to buy more of the Pastel Red, the X1 Red, and the new Pastel Extreme in White with some dyes. I received the coolants late last week, the Pastel Red was manufactured in April 2015, so the coolant I just bought is almost a year old and it looks just the same as the first batch I have.
> 
> I mixed up the X1 Red and it's too dark, so not going to use that either.
> 
> I mixed up half of the Pastel Extreme White, added 12 drops of Red dye, and just have pink fluid now. I added 12 drops of the Deep Red dye, still just have pink color. I'll dump all the dye in there if I need to, but I want a red color like it shows on the Pastel Red picture. I also have Blue dye.
> 
> Can anyone give me direction from here. I need RED!


Thats weird.. Do you have a picture?


----------



## duckweedpb7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Help with dyes please.
> 
> I'm rebuilding my rig and wanted to use the Mayhems Pastel Red coolant. This is my first time using Mayhems coolant. When I mixed up the Pastel Red and put in my system, (fully cleaned with Blitz Pro kit), the coolant does not look anything like the picture, it's more of a peach or strawberry milkshake color.
> 
> I purchased the coolant around April of last year, it has a manufacture date of January 2015. So I thought maybe it was just old coolant even though it has been stored in a cool, dry and dark place all this time.
> 
> I decided to buy more of the Pastel Red, the X1 Red, and the new Pastel Extreme in White with some dyes. I received the coolants late last week, the Pastel Red was manufactured in April 2015, so the coolant I just bought is almost a year old and it looks just the same as the first batch I have.
> 
> I mixed up the X1 Red and it's too dark, so not going to use that either.
> 
> I mixed up half of the Pastel Extreme White, added 12 drops of Red dye, and just have pink fluid now. I added 12 drops of the Deep Red dye, still just have pink color. I'll dump all the dye in there if I need to, but I want a red color like it shows on the Pastel Red picture. I also have Blue dye.
> 
> Can anyone give me direction from here. I need RED!


The only way I ever had success with getting pastel red to look like that photo was to purchase the premixed bottles of it. I tried pretty much everything else you did prior to that.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckweedpb7*
> 
> The only way I ever had success with getting pastel red to look like that photo was to purchase the premixed bottles of it. I tried pretty much everything else you did prior to that.


so wait the pastel red doesn't come like it does in the picture ?

pictures anyone ?


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> so wait the pastel red doesn't come like it does in the picture ?
> 
> pictures anyone ?


There's a video on the Mayhems YouTube account that shows how to get blood red like that, I think you have to use blue.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckweedpb7*
> 
> The only way I ever had success with getting pastel red to look like that photo was to purchase the premixed bottles of it. I tried pretty much everything else you did prior to that.


Thanks for your quick reply. I wish I knew that last week when I made my purchase, I would have bought the pre-mix.

I'll see if I can get a picture up later tonight when I'm home so you guys can see what I'm talking about, the concentrate version looks nothing like the picture!


----------



## duckweedpb7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Thanks for your quick reply. I wish I knew that last week when I made my purchase, I would have bought the pre-mix.
> 
> I'll see if I can get a picture up later tonight when I'm home so you guys can see what I'm talking about, the concentrate version looks nothing like the picture!


Here is what the premixed looked like. Pretty darn close to the color advertised.


----------



## Barefooter

Now that's what I'm looking for! Thank you for the pic!


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckweedpb7*
> 
> Here is what the premixed looked like. Pretty darn close to the color advertised.


where can you buy the premix?

do you mean premix as in this?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-pastel-red-concentrate-250ml


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Help with dyes please.
> 
> I'm rebuilding my rig and wanted to use the Mayhems Pastel Red coolant. This is my first time using Mayhems coolant. When I mixed up the Pastel Red and put in my system, (fully cleaned with Blitz Pro kit), the coolant does not look anything like the picture, it's more of a peach or strawberry milkshake color.
> 
> I purchased the coolant around April of last year, it has a manufacture date of January 2015. So I thought maybe it was just old coolant even though it has been stored in a cool, dry and dark place all this time.
> 
> I decided to buy more of the Pastel Red, the X1 Red, and the new Pastel Extreme in White with some dyes. I received the coolants late last week, the Pastel Red was manufactured in April 2015, so the coolant I just bought is almost a year old and it looks just the same as the first batch I have.
> 
> I mixed up the X1 Red and it's too dark, so not going to use that either.
> 
> I mixed up half of the Pastel Extreme White, added 12 drops of Red dye, and just have pink fluid now. I added 12 drops of the Deep Red dye, still just have pink color. I'll dump all the dye in there if I need to, but I want a red color like it shows on the Pastel Red picture. I also have Blue dye.
> 
> Can anyone give me direction from here. I need RED!


Blood red needs some blue dye:


----------



## duckweedpb7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> where can you buy the premix?
> 
> do you mean premix as in this?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-pastel-red-concentrate-250ml


It can also be found here:

Link


----------



## ITAngel

Is this stuff non-conductive? I have two bottles to start my setup.







If is safe to use I will start it asap.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Is this stuff non-conductive? I have two bottles to start my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If is safe to use I will start it asap.


Yes it is. But like all non conductive fluids it will come conductive over time due the minerals and metals throughout the build.


----------



## siffonen

I have been running my pastel liguid for a quite a while now and i am thinking of cleaning my system.
There was some talking in Finnish pc-forum of white residue from pastel coolants, has anyone had problems with it?
I have noticed earlier when upgrading my system that there is a little of that residue in fittings.

Any hints that how should i clean my system or is it just flushing it few times with clean distilled water?
Also i am thinking of getting a whole new coolant, perhaps X1 is my choice with some non staining blue dye,

edit. just found my old order of the pastel and it is almost 3 years old, so perhaps its time to change it.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> I have been running my pastel liguid for a quite a while now and i am thinking of cleaning my system.
> There was some talking in Finnish pc-forum of white residue from pastel coolants, has anyone had problems with it?
> I have noticed earlier when upgrading my system that there is a little of that residue in fittings.
> 
> Any hints that how should i clean my system or is it just flushing it few times with clean distilled water?
> Also i am thinking of getting a whole new coolant, perhaps X1 is my choice with some non staining blue dye,
> 
> edit. just found my old order of the pastel and it is almost 3 years old, so perhaps its time to change it.


you been running yours for 3 years?


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yes it is. But like all non conductive fluids it will come conductive over time due the minerals and metals throughout the build.


yea I know over time it builds up, I guess I shouldn't freaking out being that is my first actual WC build. I just want to be safe lol but I think I am okay though.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> you been running yours for 3 years?


Almost. I did buy a 1ltr of pastel later, but i dont remember that did i use it fully and then added the older one back.
Anyway, its time to change







Temps are still perfect so its working fine after ~3years.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Almost. I did buy a 1ltr of pastel later, but i dont remember that did i use it fully and then added the older one back.
> Anyway, its time to change
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are still perfect so its working fine after ~3years.


That is good to know. I have 2 bottles of Mayhems Pastel Coolant Red Premix so might be using that. First time for everything including products. Hahaha


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> I have been running my pastel liguid for a quite a while now and i am thinking of cleaning my system.
> There was some talking in Finnish pc-forum of white residue from pastel coolants, has anyone had problems with it?
> I have noticed earlier when upgrading my system that there is a little of that residue in fittings.


It seems that the powder is dried pastel. At least that seems to be the case, when I look at where it shows up.


----------



## ITAngel

This is what I got to work with.


----------



## siffonen

Should i get the blitz basic kit for cleaning, or just use distilled water few runs?
X1 is my choice for new coolant, any bad things about it?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> It seems that the powder is dried pastel. At least that seems to be the case, when I look at where it shows up.


I think so, never heard about big build offs.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Should i get the blitz basic kit for cleaning, or just use distilled water few runs?
> X1 is my choice for new coolant, any bad things about it?


Definitely get Blitz part 2 it will clean your system without any need of taking it apart, it does amazing job.
Distilled wont clean much, but remember after using Blitz, flash it afterwards and I mean lots of times before filling with your favorite coolant


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Definitely get Blitz part 2 it will clean your system without any need of taking it apart, it does amazing job.
> Distilled wont clean much, but remember after using Blitz, flash it afterwards and I mean lots of times before filling with your favorite coolant


Ok, basic kit includes part 2 so i`ll order that. I will run plenty of distilled water after that to make sure that there is no cleaner left


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Ok, basic kit includes part 2 so i`ll order that. I will run plenty of distilled water after that to make sure that there is no cleaner left


You won't be disappointed I did my whole dual loop months ago and I actually ordered another bottle of blitz one for next build. A lot people complaining about the pastel or other exotic liquids colors changing to darker color after using blitz, but when you tell them that radiators can trap parts of Blitz and unless you flash the whole system very vigorously you might have blitz reacting to premixed coolants that already containing ether anti biocide or other chemicals.
I think blitz part 2 should be use annually to keep your loop sparkle clean, regardless of whether you use color coolants or just distilled water


----------



## Bridgekeeper

From Mayhems

*Pre Warning :*

Mayhems Blitz pro - No longer produced (when its gone it will be gone)

It is being replaced with Mayhems Blitz Kit

Basically the PH meter is being dropped as well as the price will go down to compensate for the loss of the Meter. We will include Ph strips.

*Reason for change.
*
Suppler of PH meter has escalated the price of the PH meters and they simply will add too much onto the price of the kit that were not willing to goto.


----------



## Revan654

I know Mayhem suggest not using certain company's tubing, Anyone know if Darkside Soft tubing gets along with Mayhem Pastel?


----------



## Alpina 7

For those that care, They finished the Tubing test;

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/05/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/5/

and started a new one ;

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/07/extreme-rigs-soft-tube-test-take-2/


----------



## Bridgekeeper

http://www.swiftech.com/h220x2.aspx

Swiftech H220 X2
Quote:


> Three radiator sizes are now available for dual 120mm fans, triple 120mm fans, and dual 140mm fans. Each series is available in two versions:
> Standard, using barb fittings and Swiftech® Helix™ fans, or
> Prestige, using Swiftech® Lok Seal™ black chrome compression fittings and Noiseblocker™ NB-eLoop fans.
> 
> A fully redesigned patent-pending radiator/reservoir/pump combo featuring a large clear acrylic reservoir of tubular shape, and showing the inner workings of the system's powerful pump. The large coolant reserve prolongs operations without maintenance well beyond the 3 year product warranty. The quality of the radiator, its paint in particular , has been vastly improved.
> 
> A new CPU waterblock, the Apogee™ XL2, which now features chrome plated copper base plate and a redesigned housing with enhanced flow characteristics for better hydraulic performance. The housing is now made of clear acrylic material to visualize the coolant flow path, and to create fantastic color and light reflections. The installation hardware has been enhanced for an even easier and trouble-free installation, and it is compatible with all current desktop processors from Intel® and AMD.
> 
> *A clear departure from all other AIO's: the use of maintenance free Mayhem ultra-clear tubing, providing the overall custom looks and feel of the product: now, you can clearly see that your system is liquid cooled!*
> 
> The use of addressable RGB LED's (ALED) lighting throughout the system: on the waterblock, reservoir, and radiator accent piece; addressable LED's are the latest and greatest in the world of LED lighting, providing control over each individual LED for unparalleled possibilities in terms of lighting effects.
> 
> A new PWM splitter including the ALED lighting control button, allowing users to connect the system PWM devices (fans and pump), and to switch the LED's to 7 different colors and 3 gradually increasing intensities; the device also includes connectivity to the chassis control panel, utilizing the ubiquitous reset button for instance to switch colors of the LED's at will.
> 
> *The inclusion of red, blue and green Mayhem color dyes, so users can customize their own color experience and give their system the finishing touch of their choice.*
> 
> What has NOT changed
> 
> Copper & brass radiator with patent pending integrated high pressure pump & reservoir capable of driving multiple additional devices in the loop.
> 
> Enthusiast grade Apogee™ class waterblock.


----------



## alphabet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> For those that care, They finished the Tubing test;
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/05/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/5/
> 
> and started a new one ;
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/07/extreme-rigs-soft-tube-test-take-2/


I'm looking forward to the new test results and even more happy knowing there's an option that works for less than half the price.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> From Mayhems
> 
> Pre Warning :
> 
> Mayhems Blitz pro - No longer produced (when its gone it will be gone)
> 
> It is being replaced with Mayhems Blitz Kit
> 
> Basically the PH meter is being dropped as well as the price will go down to compensate for the loss of the Meter. We will include Ph strips.
> 
> Reason for change.
> 
> Suppler of PH meter has escalated the price of the PH meters and they simply will add too much onto the price of the kit that were not willing to goto.


Where did you get this info, must be from Mick himself I presume







nothing is mentioned on his website









Tbh. I have never used their PH meter, although I had one I preferred PH strips from aquarium store worked great and if that will lower the price, why not


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bridgekeeper*
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/h220x2.aspx
> 
> Swiftech H220 X2


Hats off to Swiftech and Mayhems for teaming up.


----------



## JbstormburstADV

Alright, so after a bunch of time gathering parts, I'm in the final stages of my build and my radiators should be done with Blitz Part 1 later tonight. My question regards what needs to be done after you run Blitz Part 2 for the full 24 hours. I know you're supposed to flush the system using "fresh" water, but does that mean you have the option of flushing with the loop closed, or is it better to continually take in new water? Also, if I decide to use a bucket to feed an open loop, is it necessary that I add a filter to the beginning or end of the loop?


----------



## 414347

Either way would be good, just fill it and run 20-30 min. each time if you go with the close loop way.
You can run continuously via- sinks faucet as long as your water where your at is decently clean and I'm sure it's not that bad to worry about any filters. Afterwards I would say last 2-3 flashes use distilled water and it should be good to go


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Either way would be good, just fill it and run 20-30 min. each time if you go with the close loop way.
> You can run continuously via- sinks faucet as long as your water where your at is decently clean and I'm sure it's not that bad to worry about any filters. Afterwards I would say last 2-3 flashes use distilled water and it should be good to go


what about running water threw a pitcher filter like Brita, then using that water? think it would make a difference?


----------



## JbstormburstADV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Either way would be good, just fill it and run 20-30 min. each time if you go with the close loop way.
> You can run continuously via- sinks faucet as long as your water where your at is decently clean and I'm sure it's not that bad to worry about any filters. Afterwards I would say last 2-3 flashes use distilled water and it should be good to go


Well then, it's a really good thing I live in NYC. There's a reason we have the best tap water. XD

In any case, though, I'm going to guess that my objective is to make it so that whatever comes out of a look is within a certain range of pH deviance from vanilla distilled water. What kind of deviance here would be acceptable? Also, if I run this through the sink, at what point should I switch to distilled.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Either way would be good, just fill it and run 20-30 min. each time if you go with the close loop way.
> You can run continuously via- sinks faucet as long as your water where your at is decently clean and I'm sure it's not that bad to worry about any filters. Afterwards I would say last 2-3 flashes use distilled water and it should be good to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well then, it's a really good thing I live in NYC. There's a reason we have the best tap water. XD
> 
> In any case, though, I'm going to guess that my objective is to make it so that whatever comes out of a look is within a certain range of pH deviance from vanilla distilled water. What kind of deviance here would be acceptable? *Also, if I run this through the sink, at what point should I switch to distilled.*
Click to expand...

15 minutes seems long enough I think. Just be careful with the water pressure. Then run the loop with distilled a couple of times.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Mine started to settle out after about a month. Still there, but much weaker effect. Testing adding more fresh coola t to see if it plugs up or stablizes. Just curious to see what happens. Will report back as i find out.


how is yours doing? I reused mine about 2 weeks ago when I rebuilt my loop and it looked as good as new after collecting anything I could from everything, but now I'm getting severe dropout again a little sooner than I anticipated.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> how is yours doing? I reused mine about 2 weeks ago when I rebuilt my loop and it looked as good as new after collecting anything I could from everything, but now I'm getting severe dropout again a little sooner than I anticipated.


Same as before. I had to refill the res again yesterday. So, almost another month. Considering the loop holds about 1.25 L getting a month out of 250ML is not too bad. The experiment or refilling continues. I grabbed a flashlight and looked at the GPU blocks before the refill. Nothing in them. So, best guess is the rads. Curious to see how this goes. Once I start having cooling issues, I will tear it all down to see exactly where the build up is at. And see if I can make a fix. Might do a second pump. It's all just a big experiment.


----------



## Sacahari3l

Wanna ask if Mayhems Blitz can be used with EK PE 360 and SE 360, since they have brass chambers i am not sure if i can use mayhemz blitz on it?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Man, this thread is depressing. I remember when Mick was still welcome here and would post cool pics all the time. He's gone and now TCO or Z don't even post here anymore


No I am still here. I apologize for my absence. Have been tied with family matters. Holding on to barely any extra cash I have for rent.

The S3 and Ped are sitting in my living room unassembled due to no parts other than the case. Trust me, the Build is coming and looking forward to dual looping in an S3. Thinking of Blueberry pastel and possibly a nice purple pastel to accent the white case.









Hang in there with me men and women.

TCO


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sacahari3l*
> 
> Wanna ask if Mayhems Blitz can be used with EK PE 360 and SE 360, since they have brass chambers i am not sure if i can use mayhemz blitz on it?


I believe the brass is just on the fitting ports because copper is too soft to thread properly, it should be just fine.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sacahari3l*
> 
> Wanna ask if Mayhems Blitz can be used with EK PE 360 and SE 360, since they have brass chambers i am not sure if i can use mayhemz blitz on it?


Part 1 - "For internal use on Copper / Brass radiators only."
So its not a problem.


----------



## Sacahari3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Part 1 - "For internal use on Copper / Brass radiators only."
> So its not a problem.


Ye i know, but i saw on one topic to this t ype of rads were damaged by using mayhems bliz, so i wansted to ask if some1 have experience with this. This rads having brass chambers and 90% copper 10% brass tubing, its a first tiime i using EK rads.


----------



## siox69

we are having our annual lan party and currently im using mayhems x1 coolant. im planning to use mayhems aurora supernova clear. i got only a bottle of it, so would it be safe to mix a small amount of diluted x1+distilled water on a aurora coolant? thank you..


----------



## siffonen

What is the pH level for new pastel coolant?
Next week i am going to flush my system, and i`m interested to see whats my pH level compared to new pastel after too long period of usage.


----------



## Trito

Guys I'm hoping some of you might be able to help me.
In the NZXT Manta video they seem to use Pastel/Aurora coolant and I was wondering how did they get it that blue navy color. Any ideas?


----------



## yamaharacer19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Guys I'm hoping some of you might be able to help me.
> In the NZXT Manta video they seem to use Pastel/Aurora coolant and I was wondering how did they get it that blue navy color. Any ideas?


It might be using EK's new pastel series liquid. Hard to tell. Here's the link to EK's Pastel Liquid.


----------



## 414347

I wouldn't touch EK pastel if they gave me for free. My nephew was running Mayhems sunset pastel yellow for almost a year without any color change, he want it to check EK







after having PC off for only 1 day that turned to some sort of clumps, when he emailed them, they blamed him, they usually tend to do "it's not them it's customer"


----------



## DtheM

You do know that EK pastel is made by Mayhems, right?


----------



## 414347

I've heard that Mayhems has partnership with EK and yes that might be true that its Mayhems pastel, but still what happen is strange, but I guess the bigger beef is with EK blaming customer rather than trying to figure out what happen.
Going from Pastel yellow and sometimes not having pc ON for days and not having any issue for year and this what happen after change, strange


----------



## DtheM

What could have happened is that he didn't flush the loop properly before switching to another pastel.. It takes an awful lot of flushing to get every last bit of pastel out. Last time I did that I ran > 15 liters of distilled through the loop before the last remnants of the old pastel have been gone. Could have done the water faucet flush thing as this would have probably been faster and required less time but I didn't want to move my machine....


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> What could have happened is that he didn't flush the loop properly before switching to another pastel.. It takes an awful lot of flushing to get every last bit of pastel out. Last time I did that I ran > 15 liters of distilled through the loop before the last remnants of the old pastel have been gone. Could have done the water faucet flush thing as this would have probably been faster and required less time but I didn't want to move my machine....


I know, you probably right, he changed to the new EK pastel after few flashes with distilled water. He went back to yellow Pastel and before that I gave him Blitz#2 that I still had and so far no problem.
Tbh. I just have big issue with EK, maybe they have changed their customer support or the way they deal with people, but from my personal experience that I encountered about 2 years ago I'm not talking about their flaking nickel plating and blaming people, Im talking about something similar with their blocks messed up thread, anyways, no point going to details but I will not get anything from them.......period, they don't have the courtesy of admitting that they could be wrong


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Same as before. I had to refill the res again yesterday. So, almost another month. Considering the loop holds about 1.25 L getting a month out of 250ML is not too bad. The experiment or refilling continues. I grabbed a flashlight and looked at the GPU blocks before the refill. Nothing in them. So, best guess is the rads. Curious to see how this goes. Once I start having cooling issues, I will tear it all down to see exactly where the build up is at. And see if I can make a fix. Might do a second pump. It's all just a big experiment.


Hmm, I am thinking my Supremacy MX block is still causing issues but I guess we'll see when I tear it down again, thinking about changing the block and going back to my twin d5 but finding a way to mount it from the top of the case perhaps
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Guys I'm hoping some of you might be able to help me.
> In the NZXT Manta video they seem to use Pastel/Aurora coolant and I was wondering how did they get it that blue navy color. Any ideas?


its probably a pastel with aurora booster mixed in. You can buy the effect seperately (near the bottom of the page) http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercooling-fluids/shopby/brand--mayhems/?

Im thinking of trying blueberry pastel and some booster or the Oil black x1 with booster


----------



## Kostadinos

Almoste done some update for my first loop


----------



## Alpina 7

How much fluid you think a 80x240 reservoir holds? A liter or less? More?

Trying to decide how much I need


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Guys I'm hoping some of you might be able to help me.
> In the NZXT Manta video they seem to use Pastel/Aurora coolant and I was wondering how did they get it that blue navy color. Any ideas?


Well, the lighting is really dark, so that's probably not the true color. That said, I'd go with Pastel Blueberry plus non-stain blue dye and silver Aurora booster.


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> How much fluid you think a 80x240 reservoir holds? A liter or less? More?
> 
> Trying to decide how much I need


Assuming 80mm is diameter it should be 1.21 liters if I remember correctly.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Well, the lighting is really dark, so that's probably not the true color. That said, I'd go with Pastel Blueberry plus non-stain blue dye and silver Aurora booster.


Found the guy who made the build. It was one white pastel + 4 Aurora silver boosters. Don't think the effect would last at all so I will try to figure out how to get oxford blue color in a different way. Blueberry + blue dye could be an option but do you think I could get the right color?


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Assuming 80mm is diameter it should be 1.21 liters if I remember correctly.


"Koolance Reservoir Body 924ml 80x240mm"
That seems to be more correct.


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> "Koolance Reservoir Body 924ml 80x240mm"
> That seems to be more correct.


Mkey. I thought the formula for cylinder was π*r2*h and got that answer however I might have confused something.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Mkey. I thought the formula for cylinder was π*r2*h and got that answer however I might have confused something.


You have to calculate it with the inner diameter, 80mm is outside diameter.


----------



## Chiobe

Does anyone know how the non stain dyes react with mayhems extreme pastel?
And how much I would need to color 1,5-2L of mixed extreme pastel?


----------



## Alpina 7

Ok thanks guys. So I guess I need to get 2 liters premixed mayhem red then.

Another question, when u bought the base for my reservoir from koolances it said nothing about the fittings size I need. Are they all the same size?

The model I got is COV-TKBTMX70

Thanks a lot. I need the 90 degree fittings


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Does anyone know how the non stain dyes react with mayhems extreme pastel?
> And how much I would need to color 1,5-2L of mixed extreme pastel?


Sorry, I don't. Have non-stain blue sitting here but haven't added it to the pastel extreme white in my build... yet.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Ok thanks guys. So I guess I need to get 2 liters premixed mayhem red then.
> 
> Another question, when u bought the base for my reservoir from koolances it said nothing about the fittings size I need. Are they all the same size?
> 
> The model I got is COV-TKBTMX70
> 
> Thanks a lot. I need the 90 degree fittings


Just get fittings that are with G1/4 Thread, which is in 99.9% of all fittings







You need to get the correct ones depending on you tubing size, but if you only need a 90 degree fittings, then your tubing size does not matter.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Assuming 80mm is diameter it should be 1.21 liters if I remember correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found the guy who made the build. It was one white pastel + 4 Aurora silver boosters. Don't think the effect would last at all so I will try to figure out how to get oxford blue color in a different way. Blueberry + blue dye could be an option but do you think I could get the right color?


I have an Excel sheet with all the Pantone formulas. When I get off work I will post it here.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> I have an Excel sheet with all the Pantone formulas. When I get off work I will post it here.


thanks you. i repped everyone for the help!


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Just get fittings that are with G1/4 Thread, which is in 99.9% of all fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You need to get the correct ones depending on you tubing size, but if you only need a 90 degree fittings, then your tubing size does not matter.


Ok thats what i figured...

so My tubing is 3/8 by 5/8 so im assuming id need these 90 degree fittings?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-black

and then these to connect to them..?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-acf-fitting-10-16mm-black-2

just making sure i got all the right parts in order before i place my order. don't want to have to wait any longer because of small mistakes.

and it sucks they are out of stock of the 90 degree ones for another month.. anyone know where i can get them in stock ?


----------



## Rayce185

I absolutely love Mayhem's Pastel Ice White! It fit's perfectly to the matte black'n'white setup in Frozen Panda









I'll make a few decent shots in a couple of days


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Ok thats what i figured...
> 
> so My tubing is 3/8 by 5/8 so im assuming id need these 90 degree fittings?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-black
> 
> and then these to connect to them..?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-acf-fitting-10-16mm-black-2
> 
> just making sure i got all the right parts in order before i place my order. don't want to have to wait any longer because of small mistakes.
> 
> and it sucks they are out of stock of the 90 degree ones for another month.. anyone know where i can get them in stock ?


Those are corrrect ones. I live in Finland so dont know where you should find them.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Alpina, are you in the UK or US?


----------



## ITAngel

Is the Mayhems Pastel Red required monthly maintenance? Will it clog water cooling systems?


----------



## DtheM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Is the Mayhems Pastel Red required monthly maintenance? Will it clog water cooling systems?


No and no..


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Alpina, are you in the UK or US?


Im in the USA


----------



## Mike H

Here is my new workstation that I just built using Mayhem Blueberry pastel in the Swiftech h320x prestige.
Case: Phanteks Entoo Evolv ATX
Processor: Core i7 5960x @4.6 Ghz - 1.3v
AOI: Swiftech H320X prestige
Graphics card: Nvidida Quadro M5000
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 3300Mhz 32gb, 1T timing
Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth X99
Hard drives: OS drive-Samsung 950pro M.2-512gb, Data drive- Samsung 950pro M.2 512gb, on a PCIe Angle bird card, Backup drive-Samsung 850pro 2tb
Power supply: Corsair HX 1000i


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike H*
> 
> Here is my new workstation that I just built using Mayhem Blueberry pastel in the Swiftech h320x prestige.
> Case: Phanteks Entoo Evolv ATX
> Processor: Core i7 5960x @4.6 Ghz - 1.3v
> AOI: Swiftech H320X prestige
> Graphics card: Nvidida Quadro M5000
> Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 3300Mhz 32gb, 1T timing
> Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth X99
> Hard drives: OS drive-Samsung 950pro M.2-512gb, Data drive- Samsung 950pro M.2 512gb, on a PCIe Angle bird card, Backup drive-Samsung 850pro 2tb
> Power supply: Corsair HX 1000i


nice, looks good!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Im in the USA


Are you dead set on EK fittings? The Barrow work just as well for a fraction of the price. Can get them at ModMyMods or possibly ebay.

Crappy phone pic (rotary 90 + 3/8" compression and a compression on outlet) :


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Im in the USA


Check out PPCS or aquatuning.us


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Are you dead set on EK fittings? The Barrow work just as well for a fraction of the price. Can get them at ModMyMods or possibly ebay.
> 
> Crappy phone pic (rotary 90 + 3/8" compression and a compression on outlet) :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


3/8 x 5/8 fittings are sold out currently. They should be back in stock in March.

I was going to go with Barrow, Couldn't find enough to complete my loop. I went with Bitspower instead (I got them discounted). I got them around the same price as some of the barrow fittings.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DtheM*
> 
> You do know that EK pastel is made by Mayhems, right?


Are you sure about that? EK and few others said it's not made by Mayhems.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Are you sure about that? EK and few others said it's not made by Mayhems.


The name image seems to be missing from the EK site: https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-launches-the-new-line-of-pastel-line-nano-coolants/
But everyone else has it listed as "Produced in United Kingdom by Mayhems"


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> The name image seems to be missing from the EK site: https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-launches-the-new-line-of-pastel-line-nano-coolants/
> But everyone else has it listed as "Produced in United Kingdom by Mayhems"


That's Mayhems for sure, Weird EK would tell me differently.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 3/8 x 5/8 fittings are sold out currently. They should be back in stock in March.
> 
> I was going to go with Barrow, Couldn't find enough to complete my loop. I went with Bitspower instead (I got them discounted). I got them around the same price as some of the barrow fittings.


performance-pcs has monsoon economy hardline fittings on clearance, 6 for 10$. They've got a few colors left in 5/8"OD. I'd post a link but I'm getting a 503 error now


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> performance-pcs has monsoon economy hardline fittings on clearance, 6 for 10$. They've got a few colors left in 5/8"OD. I'd post a link but I'm getting a 503 error now


I think the site is down. Since I can't even connect to the site.


----------



## brazilianloser

Well got my pre-mixed bottle in. But even though I am flushing the system already prior to the six month mark... I am only doing because I want to re-do some of my runs and will be changing out the cpu block and thermal paste.

My point being the pastel white has held its color and performance no problem even though I didn't really go extreme cleaning prior to putting everything together on this build.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I think the site is down. Since I can't even connect to the site.


I mustve crashed it, it happened right as i tried adding a wishlist to my cart







. 6 fittings for 10$ is ridiculous though
back on
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=desc&fitting_size=980&is_ajax=1&order=price&q=monsoon+economy+fitting
they have 1/2" too


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> performance-pcs has monsoon economy hardline fittings on clearance, 6 for 10$. They've got a few colors left in 5/8"OD. I'd post a link but I'm getting a 503 error now


I wish they had the ones I need on sale. I'm using soft tubing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Well got my pre-mixed bottle in. But even though I am flushing the system already prior to the six month mark... I am only doing because I want to re-do some of my runs and will be changing out the cpu block and thermal paste.
> 
> My point being the pastel white has held its color and performance no problem even though I didn't really go extreme cleaning prior to putting everything together on this build.


What did you do to clean yours ? I'm considering just flushing with distilled the best I can and then adding my pastel red to it. Too lazy to get into deep cleaning and to cheap to spend $40 on the cleaning system


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> I wish they had the ones I need on sale. I'm using soft tubing.


that price makes it a great time to switch. 1/2 petg is 10$ for 3m, 6m would be enough for most any loop including messups


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> I wish they had the ones I need on sale. I'm using soft tubing.
> What did you do to clean yours ? I'm considering just flushing with distilled the best I can and then adding my pastel red to it. Too lazy to get into deep cleaning and to cheap to spend $40 on the cleaning system


I'm pretty sure I read here that the white is the least sensitive and red is the most sensitive to contaminants/ph so you might just want to get that blitz kit so you don't waste the pastel.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> that price makes it a great time to switch. 1/2 petg is 10$ for 3m, 6m would be enough for most any loop including messups


Keep in mind those fittings have been discontinued so you might want to get extras if possible for any upgrades/replacements you may want to do in the future.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I read here that the white is the least sensitive and red is the most sensitive to contaminants/ph so you might just want to get that blitz kit so you don't waste the pastel.


Yea I just don't want to.. I going to run distilled water threw my system for a while. And the pastel has biocides in it already so I think I'll be okay. Worst case ill have to change it in a few months. Which I plan to anyways.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Yea I just don't want to.. I going to run distilled water threw my system for a while. And the pastel has biocides in it already so I think I'll be okay. Worst case ill have to change it in a few months. Which I plan to anyways.


The only thing that will happen, is that the pastel will lose its color, but not its effect.
As long as there is no debris of any kind in the loop.

If you can live with it, flushing with water a few times will do the trick.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> What did you do to clean yours ? I'm considering just flushing with distilled the best I can and then adding my pastel red to it. Too lazy to get into deep cleaning and to cheap to spend $40 on the cleaning system


Well on this current build "check sig for it" The only things that were used were the CPU block and pump... so I cleaned the cpu block with distilled/vinegar then several times with just distilled... everything else I just flushed with warm distilled water. The radiators had no dirt or flux after several flushes a million times better than my old Alphacools







. This time around I will just flush it again a few times with distilled since the only thing that will change is the cpu block for a brand new one instead of a used. But hey I may have gotten lucky since some folks even after the nuclear baths (JK) don't seem to get theirs clean enough to use pastel.


----------



## Fyrwulf

@Trito

Okay, this is going to get complex and you might want to put in a support ticket with Mayhems to verify. The Pantone formula for Oxford Blue (Pantone 282) is as follows:

White: 18 grams
Black: 12.5 grams
Red/Magenta: 25.5 grams
Blue: 43.5 grams

I'm not sure what the volume formulas are and you'd definitely need to submit a support ticket for that, but Mayhems is going to ask for the Pantone number.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Well on this current build "check sig for it" The only things that were used were the CPU block and pump... so I cleaned the cpu block with distilled/vinegar then several times with just distilled... everything else I just flushed with warm distilled water. The radiators had no dirt or flux after several flushes a million times better than my old Alphacools
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This time around I will just flush it again a few times with distilled since the only thing that will change is the cpu block for a brand new one instead of a used. But hey I may have gotten lucky since some folks even after the nuclear baths (JK) don't seem to get theirs clean enough to use pastel
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> @Alpina 7
> 
> Okay, this is going to get complex and you might want to put in a support ticket with Mayhems to verify. The Pantone formula for Oxford Blue (Pantone 282) is as follows:
> 
> White: 18 grams
> Black: 12.5 grams
> Red/Magenta: 25.5 grams
> Blue: 43.5 grams
> 
> I'm not sure what the volume formulas are and you'd definitely need to submit a support ticket for that, but Mayhems is going to ask for the Pantone number.
> 
> 
> 
> Im sorry im confused. whats this for ?
Click to expand...


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Im sorry im confused. whats this for ?


Sorry, I was mixed up as to who requested the formula.


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> @Trito
> 
> Okay, this is going to get complex and you might want to put in a support ticket with Mayhems to verify. The Pantone formula for Oxford Blue (Pantone 282) is as follows:
> 
> White: 18 grams
> Black: 12.5 grams
> Red/Magenta: 25.5 grams
> Blue: 43.5 grams
> 
> I'm not sure what the volume formulas are and you'd definitely need to submit a support ticket for that, but Mayhems is going to ask for the Pantone number.


Nice. Thanks. I have already opened the ticket but this will sure help!


----------



## Chiobe

The Extreme pastel looks good.
Also, only having some parts show the liquid works quite nice.


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> That's Mayhems for sure, Weird EK would tell me differently.


The Pastel from EK is not made by Mayhems. I don't remember how far back, but this has come up before. Some of the coolant from EK is made by Mayhems. The pastel is not one of them though.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMC Modder*
> 
> The Pastel from EK is not made by Mayhems. I don't remember how far back, but this has come up before. Some of the coolant from EK is made by Mayhems. The pastel is not one of them though.


Before they made the new page, so did it say on it that the pastel was made by Mayhems.
Now it only says "Produced in United Kingdom by:".


----------



## USMC Modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Before they made the new page, so did it say on it that the pastel was made by Mayhems.
> Now it only says "Produced in United Kingdom by:".


@akira749 should be able to put a definite answer on this.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

EK Pastel is definitely made by Mayhems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Question I've been wondering. Ek has pastel which is basically mayhems or it is mayhems. But is there translucent fluid mayhems x1 or no
> 
> 
> 
> EK Pastel line is a partnership with Mayhems but the non-pastel isn't
Click to expand...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/11600_100#post_24256361


----------



## USMC Modder

Thanks, guess I had that backwards.


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> The Extreme pastel looks good.
> Also, only having some parts show the liquid works quite nice.


WOW what kind of Reservoir is THAT??


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> WOW what kind of Reservoir is THAT??


Its custom made by Skeeper: https://www.facebook.com/Skeeper-786288178115655/


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Its custom made by Skeeper: https://www.facebook.com/Skeeper-786288178115655/


Awesome, thanks! I want to replace my fugly reservoir soon and that is a work of art!









I guess he's not on the forum? Where did you find him?


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Awesome, thanks! I want to replace my fugly reservoir soon and that is a work of art!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess he's not on the forum? Where did you find him?


Just contact him through facebook.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I read here that the white is the least sensitive and red is the most sensitive to contaminants/ph so you might just want to get that blitz kit so you don't waste the pastel.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea I just don't want to.. I going to run distilled water threw my system for a while. And the pastel has biocides in it already so I think I'll be okay. Worst case ill have to change it in a few months. Which I plan to anyways.
Click to expand...

I'll remember you in case you come back & blame Mayhems because your pastel change color, e.g. red to pink. lol.....j/k

Assuming this is not new loop, run distilled a couple of times & then for the last run, let it run for a day. After that drain & check pH level. If everything ok, then fill with Pastel.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I'll remember you in case you come back & blame Mayhems because your pastel change color, e.g. red to pink. lol.....j/k
> 
> Assuming this is not new loop, run distilled a couple of times & then for the last run, let it run for a day. After that drain & check pH level. If everything ok, then fill with Pastel.


lol, thanks.. ill do that.

now i just need to figure out how to run my Rad outside of the case... i have predator 360's... everyone saying to use paperclip but i guess im dumb. i dont get it


----------



## Blackseep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> lol, thanks.. ill do that.
> 
> now i just need to figure out how to run my Rad outside of the case... i have predator 360's... everyone saying to use paperclip but i guess im dumb. i dont get it


Connect a paperclip to the green and black wires on the 24-pin connector to jump start a PSU.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackseep*
> 
> Connect a paperclip to the green and black wires on the 24-pin connector to jump start a PSU.


that will keep my cpu from running?

all my wires are braided red.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I'll remember you in case you come back & blame Mayhems because your pastel change color, e.g. red to pink. lol.....j/k
> 
> Assuming this is not new loop, run distilled a couple of times & then for the last run, let it run for a day. After that drain & check pH level. If everything ok, then fill with Pastel.
> 
> 
> 
> lol, thanks.. ill do that.
> 
> now i just need to figure out how to run my Rad outside of the case... i have predator 360's... everyone saying to use paperclip but i guess im dumb. i dont get it
Click to expand...

There's a lot of tutorial on this in the internet. Just google it. It's really easy & you can not get it wrong. Do you have friend that setup their loop from XSPC kit? If yes, you can borrow the ATX PSU bridge plug from them (see below).



I already have ATX switch from my previous project years ago which turn out to be very useful to me.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> There's a lot of tutorial on this in the internet. Just google it. It's really easy & you can not get it wrong. Do you have friend that setup their loop from XSPC kit? If yes, you can borrow the ATX PSU bridge plug from them (see below).
> 
> 
> 
> I already have ATX switch from my previous project years ago which turn out to be very useful to me.


ok so that seems simple enough... just unplug everything from my power supply except my 24 pin atx... bridge it... and then what? do i plug my EK predator 360 sata power supply up or my pwm header ?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> There's a lot of tutorial on this in the internet. Just google it. It's really easy & you can not get it wrong. Do you have friend that setup their loop from XSPC kit? If yes, you can borrow the ATX PSU bridge plug from them (see below).
> 
> 
> 
> I already have ATX switch from my previous project years ago which turn out to be very useful to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ok so that seems simple enough... just unplug everything from my power supply except my 24 pin atx... bridge it... and then what? do i plug my EK predator 360 sata power supply up or my pwm header ?
Click to expand...

- Disconnect PSU from everything
- Connect Predator to PSU
- Connect the jumper to the 24-pin cable OR connect the ATX PSU bridge plug to the 24-pin cable
- Plug PSU to the wall
- Switch on the PSU

The Predator 360 come with DDC pump. So it will run at full speed right away without the PWM header. So bleeding should be no problem.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> - Disconnect PSU from everything
> - Connect Predator to PSU
> - Connect the jumper to the 24-pin cable OR connect the ATX PSU bridge plug to the 24-pin cable
> - Plug PSU to the wall
> - Switch on the PSU
> 
> The Predator 360 come with DDC pump. So it will run at full speed right away without the PWM header. So bleeding should be no problem.


ok thanks. i know its simple, but im a perfectionist and like to research everything a week before i tackle a project..

now i know!
















just out of curiosity, what exactly id connecting the 24Pin cable and bridging it doing for me?

what would happen if i just connect a sata cable and my predator to my PSU without the 24 pin cable...

just learning









Hey also, since we are on the subject.. does anything go inside of this reservoir that i ordered or does it just stay how itr looks... id imagine a tube goes on the inside or something to direct the flow ?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> just out of curiosity, what exactly id connecting the 24Pin cable and bridging it doing for me?
> 
> what would happen if i just connect a sata cable and my predator to my PSU without the 24 pin cable...
> 
> just learning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey also, since we are on the subject.. does anything go inside of this reservoir that i ordered or does it just stay how itr looks... id imagine a tube goes on the inside or something to direct the flow ?


The bridge or jumper on the 24-pin cable is to jump start the PSU. Without it, anything connected to the PSU will not get any power.

If I'm not mistaken the IN/OUT ports are at the bottom. So you don't have tube in it because at the top is fill port.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The bridge or jumper on the 24-pin cable is to jump start the PSU. Without it, anything connected to the PSU will not get any power.
> 
> If I'm not mistaken the IN/OUT ports are at the bottom. So you don't have tube in it because at the top is fill port.


Your awesome sir.

thank you

learned something new today


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> The Pastel from EK is not made by Mayhems. I don't remember how far back, but this has come up before. Some of the coolant from EK is made by Mayhems. The pastel is not one of them though.


I have mentioned earlier in this thread that my nephews Pastel that he got from EK clogged his loop. EK have not responded to date, typical for them but Mayhems did and apparently he didn't make that Pastel that he got, that would explain why when he got the sunset yellow directly from Mayhems it was running great and as soon as he got EKs pastel it developed clumps after 1 day PC not been in use.
Does EK makes their own pastel? they should leave that part to more experience and knowledgeable people.


----------



## ITAngel

Question, someone posted this and I was wondering if the Mayhems Pastel Red Pre-Mix coolant will not work with this CPU blocks from EK?

https://www.ekwb.com/blog/antimicrobial-algae-protection/


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I have mentioned earlier in this thread that my nephews Pastel that he got from EK clogged his loop. EK have not responded to date, typical for them but Mayhems did and apparently he didn't make that Pastel that he got, that would explain why when he got the sunset yellow directly from Mayhems it was running great and as soon as he got EKs pastel it developed clumps after 1 day PC not been in use.
> Does EK makes their own pastel? they should leave that part to more experience and knowledgeable people.


Look at the end of the description.....

Quote:


> Produced in United Kingdom by:


EK-Ekoolant Pastel YELLOW (concentrate 250mL)


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> Look at the end of the description.....
> EK-Ekoolant Pastel YELLOW (concentrate 250mL)


I see you finally fixed that image. It has been missing since the new page update.


----------



## 414347

Now I feel like

.. I need to have a talk with my nephew, someone is not being honest I know he doesn't like EK either.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Now I feel like
> 
> .. I need to have a talk with my nephew, someone is not being honest I know he doesn't like EK either.


Ask him how he clean/flush the loop before changing the coolant. Running distilled water a couple of times will not clean the rads, the blocks properly. He will need to disassemble his loop & flush rads, blocks individually.


----------



## 414347

That's not even what I'm wondering about, he said Maihems emailed him








Maybe he knows he haven't flashed the way he should have and hes looking for easy way to blame others and I'm referring to my nephew


----------



## shremi

Just a quick question ... Aurora is till not suitable in the long run right ??? I am making a new build and i would love to combine aurora with the oil black to give that titanium look but if i recall right aurora stained the tubing and had a very short period of life...


----------



## emsj86

Night time picture (cell phone).


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Just a quick question ... Aurora is till not suitable in the long run right ??? I am making a new build and i would love to combine aurora with the oil black to give that titanium look but if i recall right aurora stained the tubing and had a very short period of life...


I haven't had any staining occur yet but I do have issues with the effects dropping out of suspension. My loop isn't 100% ideal for aurora though so you may have better luck. I believe they recommend a single block, rad and a separate pump/res (not a pump res combo) and no bay reservoirs


----------



## kentoR32

Hey,

i use Mayhems Aurora 2 + Silvercoil in my current build with two Alphacool radiators (ST30 360mm+XT45 240mm) for cooling my hydrocopper980ti ,EK-Monarch and my 5930k/RampageV (Monoblock)
I really want to add a external Radiator because the water temperature is nearly 40°C in load (gaming) and 33°C in Idle.
Is here anyone who is using Aurora 2 with a external Radiator like a MORA3 9x120mm and can share his experience ?

At the moment i use this with my D5 Pump on Stage 3 (absolutly silent)

Wish u a nice evening.

Stefan


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I haven't had any staining occur yet but I do have issues with the effects dropping out of suspension. My loop isn't 100% ideal for aurora though so you may have better luck. I believe they recommend a single block, rad and a separate pump/res (not a pump res combo) and no bay reservoirs


That's the old stuff, the new stuff (Aurora booster added to pastel) is supposed to be a lot better in those situations


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kentoR32*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> i use Mayhems Aurora 2 + Silvercoil in my current build with two Alphacool radiators (ST30 360mm+XT45 240mm) for cooling my hydrocopper980ti ,EK-Monarch and my 5930k/RampageV (Monoblock)
> I really want to add a external Radiator because the water temperature is nearly 40°C in load (gaming) and 33°C in Idle.
> Is here anyone who is using Aurora 2 with a external Radiator like a MORA3 9x120mm and can share his experience ?
> 
> At the moment i use this with my D5 Pump on Stage 3 (absolutly silent)
> 
> Wish u a nice evening.
> 
> Stefan


You have two radiators and you're getting those temps? Your fan setup probably isn't ideal, because that sort of radiator real estate should have your temps near ambient, even at load. So, some questions.

1) Are your rads set up in push/pull? If not, they need to be.
2) Are your rads your exhaust? If not, they need to be.
3) What fans are you using for your intake and your radiators?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> That's the old stuff, the new stuff (Aurora booster added to pastel) is supposed to be a lot better in those situations


I'm using Aurora 2 which is the newest iteration. I heard it was supposed to be better too, but not in my experience and the experiences of others I've heard from


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I'm using Aurora 2 which is the newest iteration. I heard it was supposed to be better too, but not in my experience and the experiences of others I've heard from


It's better, but you still have to design the loop for it (No 90's, single pass rads, tube res etc.) and it won't last as long as the other coolants like pastel.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> You have two radiators and you're getting those temps? Your fan setup probably isn't ideal, because that sort of radiator real estate should have your temps near ambient, even at load. So, some questions.
> 
> 1) Are your rads set up in push/pull? If not, they need to be.
> 2) Are your rads your exhaust? If not, they need to be.
> 3) What fans are you using for your intake and your radiators?


I have to disagree with the rads as exhaust. In my experience running the rads as intake will generally give the best performance, but it depends on the airflow inside the case too. @kentoR32 Also, lose the silver coil, mayhems fluids have anti algae/corrosion inhibitors already added in.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I have to disagree with the rads as exhaust. In my experience running the rads as intake will generally give the best performance, but it depends on the airflow inside the case too. @kentoR32 Also, lose the silver coil, mayhems fluids have anti algae/corrosion inhibitors already added in.


Well, I have a CaseLabs Mercury S8 and haven't owned a tower since my old Alienware built in 2004 (which, while awesome looking, was a horrible case by any modern measure), and I haven't bothered to learn about any other manufacturer's cases since CL's ticked every one of my boxes. That said, if your case has drive cages or some other obstruction directly behind otherwise unencumbered fans, then intake from the rads _might_ be worth it. However, there are still problems. Since thermal energy flows from hot to cold, and if your intake is top-mounted rads, you're automatically leaving behind some efficiency in cooling. You could be running so much positive pressure that the panels are about to buckle and that would not change because physics is physics.

In closing, I will post a couple videos simulating airflow in a Corsair 600T to illustrate my point:


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> It's better, but you still have to design the loop for it (No 90's, single pass rads, tube res etc.) and it won't last as long as the other coolants like pastel.


I've tried everything except single pass rads, will that make that much of a difference? Like I said, I know my loop isn't 100% ideal, but I've tried using one block, one rad (low restriction 240mm, placed horizontally) with no 90s and a d5 (on 5) w/ EK top and an EK res (separate) and I still dropped out after about a month and a half. I've since switched to 2 rads, 2 blocks, a pump res combo (d5, tube res) and 1-90° and I got about the same result. How is yours set up?


----------



## siffonen

Started flushing my system before using Mayhems Blitz and found out that my cpu block is slightly blocked so that needs to be opened and cleaned.
Block has been in use for many years without cleaning so no wonder, and the coolant is nearly 3 years old








Going to change all my tubing to new ones because they are stained.


----------



## kentoR32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> You have two radiators and you're getting those temps? Your fan setup probably isn't ideal, because that sort of radiator real estate should have your temps near ambient, even at load. So, some questions.
> 
> 1) Are your rads set up in push/pull? If not, they need to be.
> 2) Are your rads your exhaust? If not, they need to be.
> 3) What fans are you using for your intake and your radiators?


Hey,

I use the Noiseblocker PL-2 Fans in 120mm for my Radiators.
Both Rads are in Push Configuration installed in my Corsair 540Air.
Controlled from my aquaero based on the watertemperature sensor (measured at the pump)
In the Idle mode my fans running only with 4V (500rpm)
At load the fans running with 6V (front rad) and 8V (top rad)
The main problem is the front cover from the case ... too much air flow/higher RPM concludes to a very noisy system loudness.



English is not my mother tongue; please excuse any errors on my part.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kentoR32*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> I use the Noiseblocker PL-2 Fans in 120mm for my Radiators.
> Both Rads are in Push Configuration installed in my Corsair 540Air.
> Controlled from my aquaero based on the watertemperature sensor (measured at the pump)
> In the Idle mode my fans running only with 4V (500rpm)
> At load the fans running with 6V (front rad) and 8V (top rad)
> The main problem is the front cover from the case ... too much air flow/higher RPM concludes to a very noisy system loudness.
> 
> 
> 
> English is not my mother tongue; please excuse any errors on my part.


Your English is fine. Right off the bat I can spot some issues. Your temperature probe is probably better mounted immediately after the block, because the fluid will conduct heat as it is traveling through your hoses and the water temp will equalize once the heated fluid re-enters the reservoir. Also, while the Noiseblocker is probably a fine fan, it is not optimized for use with a radiator. Ideally you want a fan that has a static pressure rating of around 3mm/H2O for use with rads, while your PL-2 is rated for 1.24 at full power; the Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition is a good example of a radiator tuned fan but there are certainly others.

As for noise level, given the ratings I'm wondering if it isn't more irritating than loud. Normal human speech is around 60dBa. Increases in decibels are logarithmic, so that every increase of 10 decibels is an order of magnitude louder. I honestly think a fan tuned for use with rads would solve that issue.


----------



## Trito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Your English is fine. Right off the bat I can spot some issues. Your temperature probe is probably better mounted immediately after the block, because the fluid will conduct heat as it is traveling through your hoses and the water temp will equalize once the heated fluid re-enters the reservoir. Also, while the Noiseblocker is probably a fine fan, it is not optimized for use with a radiator. Ideally you want a fan that has a static pressure rating of around 3mm/H2O for use with rads, while your PL-2 is rated for 1.24 at full power; the Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition is a good example of a radiator tuned fan but there are certainly others.
> 
> As for noise level, given the ratings I'm wondering if it isn't more irritating than loud. Normal human speech is around 60dBa. Increases in decibels are logarithmic, so that every increase of 10 decibels is an order of magnitude louder. I honestly think a fan tuned for use with rads would solve that issue.


You recommend SP120 Quiet Edition as a good alternative however I would like to point out that at full speed QE has 1.29mm/H20 at 23dBA so not much difference from his current fan setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kentoR32*
> 
> 
> .


Nice looking build.







What kind of fluid are you using?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I've tried everything except single pass rads, will that make that much of a difference? Like I said, I know my loop isn't 100% ideal, but I've tried using one block, one rad (low restriction 240mm, placed horizontally) with no 90s and a d5 (on 5) w/ EK top and an EK res (separate) and I still dropped out after about a month and a half. I've since switched to 2 rads, 2 blocks, a pump res combo (d5, tube res) and 1-90° and I got about the same result. How is yours set up?


The rads will make a big difference in lifespan of the aurora. Before I switched mine to pastel I was running 2 swiftech 30mm thick rads with an ek gpu block and the bitspower cpu block. I went with the bp block because it had the widest micro-channels and I wanted to make sure the nano particles wouldn't gum up inside the block.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> The rads will make a big difference in lifespan of the aurora. Before I switched mine to pastel I was running 2 swiftech 30mm thick rads with an ek gpu block and the bitspower cpu block. I went with the bp block because it had the widest micro-channels and I wanted to make sure the nano particles wouldn't gum up inside the block.


hmm, I've been thinking about switching cpu blocks from my Supremacy MX, it seems to collect a lot of particles every time I've cleaned my loop. I haven't noticed any gunking in the micro channels yet though. I'm going to start disassembling my loop tonight.

Were your swiftech rads single pass? How long did your effect last?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> hmm, I've been thinking about switching cpu blocks from my Supremacy MX, it seems to collect a lot of particles every time I've cleaned my loop. I haven't noticed any gunking in the micro channels yet though. I'm going to start disassembling my loop tonight.
> 
> Were your swiftech rads single pass? How long did your effect last?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> hmm, I've been thinking about switching cpu blocks from my Supremacy MX, it seems to collect a lot of particles every time I've cleaned my loop. I haven't noticed any gunking in the micro channels yet though. I'm going to start disassembling my loop tonight.
> 
> Were your swiftech rads single pass? How long did your effect last?


They are single pass, pretty sure most if not all the really thin rads are. The effect was still really strong after 6 months, which is when I added the second gpu, ram, and 2 more rads to the build which required some 90's and was going to be too much stuff for the aurora to handle so I switched to pastel.
I also had the best results with aurora running the return line to the top of the res.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> They are single pass, pretty sure most if not all the really thin rads are. The effect was still really strong after 6 months, which is when I added the second gpu, ram, and 2 more rads to the build which required some 90's and was going to be too much stuff for the aurora to handle so I switched to pastel.
> I also had the best results with aurora running the return line to the top of the res.


I thought that it was mostly cross-flow rads that were single pass. I was thinking that single pass was across the rad once (fittings on opposite ends) and double pass was down and then back up.

All of mine have been 2 port, down one side and back up the other.

I haven't tried running my return into the res top yet since I'd need a multiport top and I didn't see it making a big difference.

Id be happy if I could get 4 months. I'll have to do some thinking before trying again


----------



## kentoR32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> Nice looking build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of fluid are you using?


Hey,

thanks! This is only Aurora 2 Silver 1.2liter


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I thought that it was mostly cross-flow rads that were single pass. I was thinking that single pass was across the rad once (fittings on opposite ends) and double pass was down and then back up.
> 
> All of mine have been 2 port, down one side and back up the other.
> 
> I haven't tried running my return into the res top yet since I'd need a multiport top and I didn't see it making a big difference.
> 
> Id be happy if I could get 4 months. I'll have to do some thinking before trying again


After looking, mine is a dual pass so maybe it was single channel that's important...been a while since I planned an aurora loop lol. It depends on the res you use for the flow. The photon has a big anti vortex plate on either end that limits the flow inside.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito*
> 
> You recommend SP120 Quiet Edition as a good alternative however I would like to point out that at full speed QE has 1.29mm/H20 at 23dBA so not much difference from his current fan setup.


Oops, I meant the Performance Edition. That's what I get for posting when I'm tired.


----------



## siffonen

Is it safe to leave Blitz part 2 to my system overnight with pump turned off?
I cant leave my pc running overnight so thats why i am asking.
It has been running for around 8hours now.


----------



## VSG

8 hours is enough honestly, clean it off now if you have another hour or so to spare.


----------



## Kostadinos

Almost Done


----------



## siffonen

New coolant is in and love it







Gpu temps dropped a around 4c compared to ~3year old pastel.
Now running X1 with non staining blue dye.


----------



## b0gd4n

First time watercooling.

Done my loop yesterday, brand new ek blocks and rads. I flushed the rads with boiled distilled water several times (5-6) before installing them.

Have been running Mayhems part 2 for close to 18 hours now. Is this enough?

EDIT: just a few posts back. Will drain and clean it now.


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kostadinos*
> 
> Almost Done


Wow that thing I beautiful! I love the dual loop setup!


----------



## stin0

I've been using Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O liquid for a while now and was actually wondering if it already contains anti-corrsion and anti-biocide?
I never really thought about it and just use the liquid without any aditives in my loop..


----------



## DtheM

Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O is just water without any biocides, anti-corrosives or anything else for that matter..


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I've been using Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O liquid for a while now and was actually wondering if it already contains anti-corrsion and anti-biocide?
> I never really thought about it and just use the liquid without any aditives in my loop.. biggrin.gif


No, its just purified water, its just like Distilled but Mayhems brand.


----------



## stin0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> No, its just purified water, its just like Distilled but Mayhems brand.


I'll have to buy some anti corrosion additives then


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I'll have to buy some anti corrosion additives then frown.gif


If you not mixing metals, honestly you don't need any anti-corrosive agent, Copper with Nickel getting alone well, if that's what you using, the only thing to try avoiding is aluminum, which now days that is rare to see in modern loops.
I've been running Distilled + Mayhems Biocide Extreme with my Nemesis rads and Heatkiller Nickel plated GPUs and CPU blocks, they look like brand new after long time of use I think it's way over year now it might be coming on second year, although I did run Blitz #2 while ago for few hours to clean my system, it works miracle.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> If you not mixing metals, honestly you don't need any anti-corrosive agent, Copper with Nickel getting alone well, if that's what you using, the only thing to try avoiding is aluminum, which now days that is rare to see in modern loops.


You're mixing up normal corrosion cause by water and electrolytic corrosion caused by dissimilar metals exposed to each other in an aqueous solution. He absolutely does need anti-corrosion agents in his loop.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> You're mixing up normal corrosion cause by water and electrolytic corrosion caused by dissimilar metals exposed to each other in an aqueous solution. He absolutely does need anti-corrosion agents in his loop.


You going to get oxidation and corrosion don't matter what you add to your water, metals will start to tarnish and slowly rust within its right time frame and when that is? no one will, or can predict
There are people that were running all sorts of anti-corrosive agents e.g. Dazmode protector, Fezer Base Corrosion Blocker (based glycol which is antifreeze)
Most common anticorrosive add-on that you can buy today are nothing more but deluded antifreeze and those people found their blocks all rusted and were wondering how is that possible.
I've been running Distilled water and Mayhems Biocide for a long time and my blocks are literally like brand new.
Your philosophy normally would hold but it's not set rule that applies to everyone, otherwise I would have ton of corrosion in my system.
I change my water every 3 months regardless of how much I use my PC and once every 8-9 months I use Blitz, that's all.
Go to Hardforum where they talk about their copper and nickel-plated waterblocks corroded after 5-7 months of use with some anti corrosive agents, they even found algae growth in them and then see how many people have used only DI with anti biocide ad have run their system for months and after opening their blocks there were only small amounts or tarnish that you could easy clean.


----------



## devilhead

So this time i'm happy with new mayhems costumer service, got 3 3x mayhems pastel extreme bottles and mayhems pro cleaning kit for free







and one day shipping















So my system again - white and happy







Next time i will go with clear liquid, something like Ice dragon










edit: sorry for the picture quality


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> So this time i'm happy with new mayhems costumer service, got 3 3x mayhems pastel extreme bottles and mayhems pro cleaning kit for free smile.gif and one day shipping sonic.gifcheers.gif
> So my system again - white and happy smile.gif Next time i will go with clear liquid, something like Ice dragon smile.gif


Nice I really like the I believe corsair RAM coolers









Btw. I've had dealings with mayhems (Mick) on few occasions and I have nothing but positive experience with him and his product


----------



## Alpina 7

Looks like im gonna have a fun next few days!! Cant wait


----------



## brazilianloser

Anyone rocking a flow meter like http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-flow-indicator-bp-fi-clbkmbk-clear-black-matte-black.html that is running pastel of any color (preferably white) that could show me a picture...??? Wondering if you can still see the darn thing going around with pastel in the loop.

And another question for the Mayhem professionals... is it a bad idea to filter the pastel using a coffee filter??? Just bought a new bottle and there were some impurities on the loop which only showed up after a few hours of running it... had to drain it all due to motherboard failure but wasn't really looking forward to buy another bottle yet again...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Anyone rocking a flow meter like http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-flow-indicator-bp-fi-clbkmbk-clear-black-matte-black.html that is running pastel of any color (preferably white) that could show me a picture...??? Wondering if you can still see the darn thing going around with pastel in the loop.


I'm going with no:

Quote:


> And another question for the Mayhem professionals... is it a bad idea to filter the pastel using a coffee filter??? Just bought a new bottle and there were some impurities on the loop which only showed up after a few hours of running it... had to drain it all due to motherboard failure but wasn't really looking forward to buy another bottle yet again...


yes, you can do this.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1426968/can-coolant-be-reused/0_30


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I'm going with no:


Darn, thanks though. Saved me a few bucks.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Darn, thanks though. Saved me a few bucks.


More expensive but you can use this by connecting it to a motherboard fan header. http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-flow-sensor-high-flow-g1-4-for-aquaero-aquastream-xt-ultra-and-poweradjust.html


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> More expensive but you can use this by connecting it to a motherboard fan header. http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-flow-sensor-high-flow-g1-4-for-aquaero-aquastream-xt-ultra-and-poweradjust.html


Thanks but no on that front. Just wanted a simple flow indicator but I can live without one. Trying to get a proper loop this time around instead of a somewhat rushed job since I got to wait about two weeks on my motherboard RMA anyways.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Anyone rocking a flow meter like http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-flow-indicator-bp-fi-clbkmbk-clear-black-matte-black.html that is running pastel of any color (preferably white) that could show me a picture...??? Wondering if you can still see the darn thing going around with pastel in the loop.
> 
> And another question for the Mayhem professionals... is it a bad idea to filter the pastel using a coffee filter??? Just bought a new bottle and there were some impurities on the loop which only showed up after a few hours of running it... had to drain it all due to motherboard failure but wasn't really looking forward to buy another bottle yet again...


Yes, you can use coffee filter when putting the pastel back in the loop.


----------



## Alpina 7

orked on it last night for about 5 hours. My backes killing me, fingers raw and I'm tired but it's almost done. ??????
I've had it running for 12 hours now no leaks so in a few hours I'm going to drain it and fill it with pastel Fluid then I'm done. Been a hell of a night and those damn rotary compression fittings are a pain in the ass to remove. Esp without the right sized Allen key. But I got it done...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> orked on it last night for about 5 hours. My backes killing me, fingers raw and I'm tired but it's almost done. ??????
> I've had it running for 12 hours now no leaks so in a few hours I'm going to drain it and fill it with pastel Fluid then I'm done. Been a hell of a night and those damn rotary compression fittings are a pain in the ass to remove. Esp without the right sized Allen key. But I got it done...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice attempt, personally your runs are too long and over complicated.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Nice attempt, personally your runs are too long and over complicated.


Ouch.. It looks better in person. Really I don't know how I could have gotten it less complicated.. It will look better when I have my GPU block in place...I'm open to suggestions till then though


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Ouch.. It looks better in person. Really I don't know how I could have gotten it less complicated.. It will look better when I have my GPU block in place...I'm open to suggestions till then though


Alpina, it looks good. Remember, its your build so you are the only one who matters!


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Alpina, it looks good. Remember, its your build so you are the only one who matters!


Thanks man. Still kind of disappointing when you spend hundreds of dollars and someone says it looks overly complicated ?


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Thanks man. Still kind of disappointing when you spend hundreds of dollars and someone says it looks overly complicated ?


I know what you mean. The res on top will definitely make the runs longer. Have you looked at any possible way to run the tube through the top to the res instead of out of the back with some bulkhead type fittings?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Ouch.. It looks better in person. Really I don't know how I could have gotten it less complicated.. It will look better when I have my GPU block in place...I'm open to suggestions till then though


I didn't mean to offend, I said personally as in my tastes the runs are too long and over complicated, you're posting on a forum, not everyone will like what they see and comment on it similar to the outside world. Take comments like mine with a pinch of salt, use it to build a better system, anything, but don't take it to heart, that's not it's intent.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> I know what you mean. The res on top will definitely make the runs longer. Have you looked at any possible way to run the tube through the top to the res instead of out of the back with some bulkhead type fittings?


Mounting it on the front rad or even the outside on the back next to the exhaust fan would help. Rotating the top 240/280mm rad will help reduce the length of tubing too, flipping the front rad again, will help reduce the runs.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I didn't mean to offend, I said personally as in my tastes the runs are too long and over complicated, you're posting on a forum, not everyone will like what they see and comment on it similar to the outside world. Take comments like mine with a pinch of salt, use it to build a better system, anything, but don't take it to heart, that's not it's intent.
> Mounting it on the front rad or even the outside on the back next to the exhaust fan would help. Rotating the top 240/280mm rad will help reduce the length of tubing too, flipping the front rad again, will help reduce the runs.


Thanks for the input guys. I didn't take any offense I definitely posted to get some input. Thanks for the advice. I may end up going that route. I agree though it's a lot of tubing. I used 9 feet actually. I think I'll flip the top rad and front rad. Along with a GPU water block I think that will help a lot. And I'll see about putting the reservoir on the back of th case instead. Also thought about adding quick disconnects where those holes are in the back of the case... Future projects ?

For now I'm just glad with the amazing temps in getting. 58c under load for 2 hours!! 27c idle !!!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Thanks for the input guys. I didn't take any offense I definitely posted to get some input. Thanks for the advice. I may end up going that route. I agree though it's a lot of tubing. I used 9 feet actually. I think I'll flip the top rad and front rad. Along with a GPU water block I think that will help a lot. And I'll see about putting the reservoir on the back of th case instead. Also thought about adding quick disconnects where those holes are in the back of the case... Future projects ?
> 
> For now I'm just glad with the amazing temps in getting. 58c under load for 2 hours!! 27c idle !!!


Good I'm glad, my first loop was very over the top and I did laugh at myself at how overcomplicated I made such a simple CPU loop. It's all part of the learning process though and you should be proud of what you've achieved, rock your loop for a while as it is then swap it out later on, that's what I did personally and it was a great learning experience for me.


----------



## b0gd4n

build complete:




more pics here:

plAcid build


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quick question for you guys regarding mayhems pastel extreme. Next month i am going to be doing a full tear down and rebuild of my rig. At that time i'll also be changing out the fluid. I am currently using mayhems pastel ice white pre mix and will be switching to mayhems pastel white extreme.

My question is if these two fluids have any issues mixing in very small small quantities? I'll be flushing all 6 rads using the pond pump method with distilled water for an hour or so. My build is new enough(built at the end of december) that the rads should not require any cleaning beyond that but i believe it will leave small quantities of the old pastel dye behind. Similarly with the blocks i don't plan on doing much cleaning beyond breaking the blocks down and rinsing out whatever little particles are trapped in the cooling channels.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Quick question for you guys regarding mayhems pastel extreme. Next month i am going to be doing a full tear down and rebuild of my rig. At that time i'll also be changing out the fluid. I am currently using mayhems pastel ice white pre mix and will be switching to mayhems pastel white extreme.
> 
> My question is if these two fluids have any issues mixing in very small small quantities? I'll be flushing all 6 rads using the pond pump method with distilled water for an hour or so. My build is new enough(built at the end of december) that the rads should not require any cleaning beyond that but i believe it will leave small quantities of the old pastel dye behind. Similarly with the blocks i don't plan on doing much cleaning beyond breaking the blocks down and rinsing out whatever little particles are trapped in the cooling channels.


What I did, was just the old flushing method.
Fill up the loop, let it run for 30min, drain the loop.
Do that 6+ times and the old pastel is so diluted, that it should not effect the new one (if its still present at all).
Went from dual loop with Red and White to just White, with that method.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> What I did, was just the old flushing method.
> Fill up the loop, let it run for 30min, drain the loop.
> Do that 6+ times and the old pastel is so diluted, that it should not effect the new one (if its still present at all).
> Went from dual loop with Red and White to just White, with that method.


Sounds like my pond pump method will remove all of it then. Not too worried about a color change though since i'm sticking with pastel white, just using the newer concentrated version of it. Thanks.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Sounds like my pond pump method will remove all of it then. Not too worried about a color change though since i'm sticking with pastel white, just using the newer concentrated version of it. Thanks.


I forgot I used 1 round of Blitz part 2 in the system, as I was putting in some new parts.
Also the Red loop needed some cleaning.


JayzTwoCents used the direct flush method (half open drain, add distilled water till clear) when he did a test with real Milk and Juice.
Which seems to work, at least for getting rid of any liquid.


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bridgekeeper*
> 
> From Mayhems
> 
> *Pre Warning :*
> 
> Mayhems Blitz pro - No longer produced (when its gone it will be gone)
> 
> It is being replaced with Mayhems Blitz Kit
> 
> Basically the PH meter is being dropped as well as the price will go down to compensate for the loss of the Meter. We will include Ph strips.
> 
> *Reason for change.
> *
> Suppler of PH meter has escalated the price of the PH meters and they simply will add too much onto the price of the kit that were not willing to goto.


Thanks for the heads up. On the back of your post, I've knabbed one before they all disappear. Received it yesterday.


----------



## eastexas

@ b0gd4n First off nice build. I looked at your link but it does not say what fluid you are using. Can you tell me what you are running in your system?


----------



## SimeonBG

Hey guys !
What are your opinions about Mayhems non-staine dyes ?
Are they fading, clogging, non-staining ?
I am waiting (ordered from aquatuning) for red and blue to test them out, but i wanna hear what you think.

Have a good day !


----------



## b0gd4n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eastexas*
> 
> @ b0gd4n First off nice build. I looked at your link but it does not say what fluid you are using. Can you tell me what you are running in your system?


I just noticed I forgot to mention the fluid.
I used 250ml of UV pastel green concentrate and topped it with UV pastel lime green till I filled the loop. There was about 100 of distilled water in the loop left as well.


----------



## eastexas

Thanks for the reply. I thought it was pastel green but looked lighter and was uv reactive. The uv through me for a loop. Nice combination. Might have to steal it. lol


----------



## SimeonBG

Can somebody please answer my question ?


----------



## b0gd4n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eastexas*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I thought it was pastel green but looked lighter and was uv reactive. The uv through me for a loop. Nice combination. Might have to steal it. lol


Interesting thing. I ordered pastel NON uv green concentrate and uv lime green pretty mix just because the concentrate was not uv. However after adding everything to my loop, I took a another look at my bottles, and noticed that BOTH liquors were uv.


----------



## eastexas

So the regular pastel green says its uv? huh


----------



## b0gd4n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eastexas*
> 
> So the regular pastel green says its uv? huh


Yea, I got both uv versions


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimeonBG*
> 
> Can somebody please answer my question ?


Someone will come along and answer it in due time, if we don't have an answer we can't accurately answer your question.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimeonBG*
> 
> Hey guys !
> What are your opinions about Mayhems non-staine dyes ?
> Are they fading, clogging, non-staining ?
> I am waiting (ordered from aquatuning) for red and blue to test them out, but i wanna hear what you think.
> 
> Have a good day !


I think this was covered a while back in the thread, but the red will never be completely non staining. As far as clogging, that's not going to be the dye causing the clog.


----------



## Wannie

I apologize in advance for asking since my question has certainly been asked before in this thread but so far I haven't found an answer. (And it would take me ages to look through every single page of this thread)

I'm currently in the planning of my new computer build and I intend to use Mayhems Orange pastel as cooling liquid. To add a touch, I thinking of making the pastel uv reactive but I'm not quite sure yet how to achieve this.

According to my internet research I could make the orange pastel uv reactive by mixing Mayhems uv white pastel with orange dye. But as I said, since I'm not quite sure yet I thought of asking you first if my research is correct or if I would need something else to make orange pastel uv reactive?


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wannie*
> 
> According to my internet research I could make the orange pastel uv reactive by mixing Mayhems uv white pastel with orange dye. But as I said, since I'm not quite sure yet I thought of asking you first if my research is correct or if I would need something else to make orange pastel uv reactive?


Well, that would probably work, and really it's your only option unless/until they come out with other colors. I really wish they'd get as creative as the Wildfire (company that makes UV paint) guys do with their UV colors.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems has been working hard on new Coolant technologies and direct correlation between high heat systems and ability of certain inhibiters, relating to low grade copper produced products and aluminium produced products.

With our new in house analytical systems we have discovered new formulation's that can improve not only the heat transfer of the fluids but also prolong the life of low grade copper and "all aluminium" based fittings, blocks and components. It will also prolong the effective life of the new coolant based products.

The new high grade in house developed inhibitors create a more heat resilient barrier on the copper and aluminium to help protect them from degradation over a period of time and is geared towards small high heat creating systems such AIO's, micro ATX / ITX systems (using small amounts of coolant) and also duel / triple based GPU high heat load systems.

With the popularity of Small micro system utilising less fluids and also extreme high heat system out putting higher TDP / Wattage (support request driven direct from us) Mayhems is the only manufacture who create products based on what the customer needs and expects from us not what is the most profitable.

More information will be forth coming as we progress.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wannie*
> 
> I apologize in advance for asking since my question has certainly been asked before in this thread but so far I haven't found an answer. (And it would take me ages to look through every single page of this thread)
> 
> I'm currently in the planning of my new computer build and I intend to use Mayhems Orange pastel as cooling liquid. To add a touch, I thinking of making the pastel uv reactive but I'm not quite sure yet how to achieve this.
> 
> According to my internet research I could make the orange pastel uv reactive by mixing Mayhems uv white pastel with orange dye. But as I said, since I'm not quite sure yet I thought of asking you first if my research is correct or if I would need something else to make orange pastel uv reactive?


Sorry to say you cannot make Orange Pastel UV active. The chemical that is needed to do this will not blend well with pastel and is also a poison. We will not use dangerous chemicals that can cause issues to Humans or Animals alike. Sorry


----------



## Wannie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sorry to say you cannot make Orange Pastel UV active. The chemical that is needed to do this will not blend well with pastel and is also a poison. We will not use dangerous chemicals that can cause issues to Humans or Animals alike. Sorry


A well that is unfortunate to hear but thanks for the information. Then I will just go with the normal orange pastel.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sorry to say you cannot make Orange Pastel UV active. The chemical that is needed to do this will not blend well with pastel and is also a poison. We will not use dangerous chemicals that can cause issues to Humans or Animals alike. Sorry


Objection, you honor! There are all kinds of tracer dyes on the market that are biodegradable. Are you saying whatever they're using to make UV orange is toxic? I dunno how it is in Europe, but in America a product labeled as biodegradable (and thus rated for disposal in normal trash) has to also be non-toxic.


----------



## DarthBaggins

But also being biodegradable wouldn't that degrade over a short amount of time in a loop due to the increase in Temps that our loops tend to have.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimeonBG*
> 
> Hey guys !
> What are your opinions about Mayhems non-staine dyes ?
> Are they fading, clogging, non-staining ?
> I am waiting (ordered from aquatuning) for red and blue to test them out, but i wanna hear what you think.
> 
> Have a good day !


I have currently blue non staining dye, but i have only used for about two weeks so no proper test yet.
Looks fine so far.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> But also being biodegradable wouldn't that degrade over a short amount of time in a loop due to the increase in Temps that our loops tend to have.


Dunno, to be honest. I'm not real hot on the idea of using automotive products in a water cooling loop. But UV Orange doesn't necessarily mean toxic.


----------



## SimeonBG

I was hoping that Mayhem would say something about the non stain dyes too...
I mean, he is producing them without giving any information.
Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimeonBG*
> 
> I was hoping that Mayhem would say something about the non stain dyes too...
> I mean, he is producing them without giving any information.
> Thanks for the help guys.


Don't forget Mike from Mayhems is a very busy man - sure someone from Mayhems will respond to questions in due course. You could always go to their support site and check the info there or ask a question.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimeonBG*
> 
> I was hoping that Mayhem would say something about the non stain dyes too...
> I mean, he is producing them without giving any information.
> Thanks for the help guys.


I know, I wish CEO's and business owners would answer every single question thrown their way without giving the excuse that they're busy. It's mega easy and simple running a business that deals worldwide for goodness sake!

/sarcasm


----------



## emsj86

I have ran the no. Stain blue dye with pastel for months now. No issues no problems. Behaves just like the regular dye. Nothing to worry about.


----------



## ITAngel

I want to use the Mayhems Pastel Red Premix but not sure if that will stain the loop or not.







Someone was kind enough to let me know they haven not had issues with their pastel in 6 months which is a good thing.


----------



## emsj86

As for staining no it shouldn't. However it will stain flexible tubing (but that's every flexible tubing and coolant outside of plain distilled). I've seen hardline over prolonged use not stain but get a film on the tubing which can be removed.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> As for staining no it shouldn't. However it will stain flexible tubing (but that's every flexible tubing and coolant outside of plain distilled). I've seen hardline over prolonged use not stain but get a film on the tubing which can be removed.


I see, I am using Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing but I have different coolands I can use here. Currently running distilled on the system with a little bit of flush to clean it up really good. Then I may drop the PrimoChill ICE fluid clear or Mayhems Pastel Red which is what I really wanted to run in the first place. Not sure how both of those fluid will compare. Which has the best cooling capacity and long life on the loop.


----------



## emsj86

I never used that primo chill coolant. The one primochill Fluid I did use gunked up and stained everything. For performance wise distilled to pastel you won't notice a difference I think you will be very happy with the pastel and even it stains the tubing you won't notice unless you choose to change fluid colors. But by that time you probably will change the tubing and such.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I never used that primo chill coolant. The one primochill Fluid I did use gunked up and stained everything. For performance wise distilled to pastel you won't notice a difference I think you will be very happy with the pastel and even it stains the tubing you won't notice unless you choose to change fluid colors. But by that time you probably will change the tubing and such.


I see cool, I like the red I would like to run the red if possible and I don't plan to change the colors. now my only worry my valve parts to ad a draining to the loop don't get here until Tuesday. Debating if I should just hold off until I get my parts on Tuesday and do it now and add the draining valve later on.


----------



## iBruce

Got the Blitz Part One today,

now what do I do?









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5260_zpsgktaitax.jpg.html


----------



## electro2u

Theres a bunch of blitz instruction videos on youtube. That goes pretty much for doing anything in the whole world too. You mix the acid up with distilled and fill your radiators completely. Get all the air out of them and fill them to the brim and cap off. Then let them sit for 6 to 12 hours and then flush with distilled. Keep your cat out of the room.


----------



## alphabet

Is it possible to get 3/8" x 5/8" (10/16mm) mayhems tubing onto 7/16" x 5/8" compression fittings by EK, would it be difficult or worse?


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Man, I wish some cooling company or Mayhems would hire some very, very smart scientists and figure the Aurora with booster out. I KNOW it can be done, oil and water don't mix, right. So there has to be a happy medium where even if we have to run under a certain temp (NO BENCHMARKING) or we have to use certain metals only in out loops. That coolant could and would change the water cooling world forever. I KNOW rad sellers like Monsoon could do some things using that dye that would have people throwing their money at them. It's just hard in the computer industry to put a product out there because you kinda have to make it where it's unbreakable by a 13 year old. Time for that to change, mfgs need to put out a minimun spec sheet or a minimum ph level, say fill your pc with this liquid and after so many hours of your cpu/gpus running at this temps or above you ph must be withing this range or you should not use this product. Even a simple program installed to run with the pre dye test liquid to verify the hours and temps ran on your computer with video evidence of ph samples would get you a 12 month warranty on the dye added after draining the ph correct test fluid. It sort of amazes me that people build a hard pipe cooling system without and easy way to fill and drain the system. I can drain/flush/fill my system in an hour. I'm sure mayhems heat tested the dyes and heat is not the issue. I still, ever since I hear this is that it's electrolysis or the use of dissimilar metals in the loop. I'd bet if the coolant only touched ONE type of high quality metal and there was no metal to metal contact on the cpu/gpus that the dyes would last much longer. Metal to metal on the cpu/gpus............. we use a non conductive paste recommended by the mfgs right, but it's useless if you use just the pea sized method and the blocks are metal to metal all around the outside. I take a fingernail polish brush (bristles are large enough so you can see on on the cpu if one comes off) and PAINT the entire surface with a very thing coating of the non conductive paste. A tiny bit should squeeze out around the block after fully secured. If you use the "pea" method then you might as well not even use non conductive paste. They want you to use non conductive paste to help prevent electrolysis. This is only one part though, as I said before dissimilar metals will ruin any fluid. Here is a good article: http://www.galvanizeit.org/design-and-fabrication/design-considerations/dissimilar-metals-in-contact

Jays2cents video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4PRtFTEAgA

Jay touches on electrolysis "ions". I have had extensive experience with "ions" and electrolysis with boats and heavy equipment. Maybe we need a sacrificial anode in our loops????? But, I think just the computer industry pulling back the curtain and being honest and saying that if you use dissimilar metals you will have corrosion in your system. I say SOLID COPPER with rubber isolation for the rads and complete coverage of the processor surfaces of non conductive paste. I'll bet this is the reason any nice looking coolant will be killed faster or slower depending on the amount of electrolysis in your system. The PH can be perfect when you add your coolant but a week later be wayyyy acidic to electrolysis.


----------



## Fyrwulf

If you use simple distilled you shouldn't get much in the way of ion exchange. RO/DI water is another ball game.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> snip


I don't think aurora dropping out is an issue of electrolysis, I think it's an issue of gravity, flowrate and using components with too many places for the effect to settle. but I could be wrong.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Man, the more I read this is a nightmare. I think a refund for all the poor saps who got suckered into Aurora and now some of the pastels is in order. I smell a class action. I hate people who sue other people but I hate even more that a company will MASS produce products without proper R&D and even when their whole customer base speaks up against their product the OWNER, none the less, trashes them on public media. It really seems that there was clearly deception on the part of Mayhems. Refund? What do you guys think? I think a refund or compensation with an equivalent product that Mayhems is ordered to stand behind for a specific amount of time. I know someone who would take it on in a second, in a lawyers eyes it would be a no brainer with many avenues of statute.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Man, the more I read this is a nightmare. I think a refund for all the poor saps who got suckered into Aurora and now some of the pastels is in order. I smell a class action. I hate people who sue other people but I hate even more that a company will MASS produce products without proper R&D and even when their whole customer base speaks up against their product the OWNER, none the less, trashes them on public media. It really seems that there was clearly deception on the part of Mayhems. Refund? What do you guys think? I think a refund or compensation with an equivalent product that Mayhems is ordered to stand behind for a specific amount of time. I know someone who would take it on in a second, in a lawyers eyes it would be a no brainer with many avenues of statute.


What are you talking about?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Man, the more I read this is a nightmare. I think a refund for all the poor saps who got suckered into Aurora and now some of the pastels is in order. I smell a class action. I hate people who sue other people but I hate even more that a company will MASS produce products without proper R&D and even when their whole customer base speaks up against their product the OWNER, none the less, trashes them on public media. It really seems that there was clearly deception on the part of Mayhems. Refund? What do you guys think? I think a refund or compensation with an equivalent product that Mayhems is ordered to stand behind for a specific amount of time. I know someone who would take it on in a second, in a lawyers eyes it would be a no brainer with many avenues of statute.


Really......? Is this from your experience or from what you heard. I think this is taking it alittle overboard (seems to me jayztwocents makes a video now everyone coming out the wood work)


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphabet*
> 
> Is it possible to get 3/8" x 5/8" (10/16mm) mayhems tubing onto 7/16" x 5/8" compression fittings by EK, would it be difficult or worse?


I personally would not mix sizes, but that is just me. Try to keep it the same across the loop.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Man, the more I read this is a nightmare. I think a refund for all the poor saps who got suckered into Aurora and now some of the pastels is in order. I smell a class action. I hate people who sue other people but I hate even more that a company will MASS produce products without proper R&D and even when their whole customer base speaks up against their product the OWNER, none the less, trashes them on public media. It really seems that there was clearly deception on the part of Mayhems. Refund? What do you guys think? I think a refund or compensation with an equivalent product that Mayhems is ordered to stand behind for a specific amount of time. I know someone who would take it on in a second, in a lawyers eyes it would be a no brainer with many avenues of statute.


I disagree. I knew exactly what I was getting into with aurora and afaik most people that have issues with pastel are not following directions and cleaning their loop properly. Mayhems produces unique products that aren't available anywhere else, and they are constantly improving them. If we start suing companies like mayhems, then have fun using distilled water in homemade components, because no one will want to make anything that could possibly ever fail or have issues.

What about EK and the predator? Things happen and at least mayhems and EK have been there for their customers as much as possible.

Mick made the whole jayz thing right as far as I'm concerned, it was all a mess but no one was innocent there. He is no longer doing customer support and has created new avenues for support that seem quick and on point.


----------



## ITAngel

My understanding Mayhems work with their customer when they have issues and they do require for you to do a few things for them in order to determined what went wrong and for them to prevent any future issues with their product. Also I read they provide free coolant replacement to their customers and such which is good customer service.


----------



## marshymellows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Basiletech*
> 
> Trust me your not the only one!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Man, the more I read this is a nightmare. I think a refund for all the poor saps who got suckered into Aurora and now some of the pastels is in order. I smell a class action. I hate people who sue other people but I hate even more that a company will MASS produce products without proper R&D and even when their whole customer base speaks up against their product the OWNER, none the less, trashes them on public media. It really seems that there was clearly deception on the part of Mayhems. Refund? What do you guys think? I think a refund or compensation with an equivalent product that Mayhems is ordered to stand behind for a specific amount of time. I know someone who would take it on in a second, in a lawyers eyes it would be a no brainer with many avenues of statute.


What would they be sued for? All of thier products have in depth information and if you read it you know exactly what you are getting.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Man, the more I read this is a nightmare. I think a refund for all the poor saps who got suckered into Aurora and now some of the pastels is in order. I smell a class action. I hate people who sue other people but I hate even more that a company will MASS produce products without proper R&D and even when their whole customer base speaks up against their product the OWNER, none the less, trashes them on public media. It really seems that there was clearly deception on the part of Mayhems. Refund? What do you guys think? I think a refund or compensation with an equivalent product that Mayhems is ordered to stand behind for a specific amount of time. I know someone who would take it on in a second, in a lawyers eyes it would be a no brainer with many avenues of statute.


What the hell are you talking about? You clearly came here after watching jayztwocents vid where he didn't reach out to Mick when he should have to help solve his issues. Mayhems has the best customer support I've seen where in this thread I've seen Mick personally help out users having issues and replace fluids even when they messed up the entire process which wasn't the fault of Mick Or Mayhems yet they still got replacement fluid???

Deception? They have spec sheets on their website detailing exactly what you're buying. Mick bashing Jay? Jay kicked off first with his damning video then kicked off again telling people not to buy their product several times. Mick fired back at chrismas time where here in england we like to drink a lot of booze to let our hair down, even still not an excuse but stuff happens.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> What would they be sued for? All of thier products have in depth information and if you read it you know exactly what you are getting


Very true. An example, and I honestly don't remember who, maybe you guys remember or have seen it, but there was a review on YouTube of Blitz #1 the guy reviewing it said, you run through your whole system, you know what part1 is for?
Well......... few people actually did that without reading the label first, they went based on the video review, go figure







and their fittings , O-rings and blocks got stripped








The point is, so many people don't bother reading the label(s) and then, when they have problems they blame the product itself or the manufacturer, that refers to everything today not only computer related products.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Very true. An example, and I honestly don't remember who, maybe you guys remember or have seen it, but there was a review on YouTube of Blitz #1 the guy reviewing it said, you run through your whole system, you know what part1 is for?
> Well......... few people actually did that without reading the label first, they went based on the video review, go figure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and their fittings , O-rings and blocks got stripped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The point is, so many people don't bother reading the label(s) and then, when they have problems they blame the product itself or the manufacturer, that refers to everything today not only computer related products.


Which video was this? That can do even more damage in the future if not corrected.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Man, the more I read this is a nightmare. I think a refund for all the poor saps who got suckered into Aurora and now some of the pastels is in order. I smell a class action. I hate people who sue other people but I hate even more that a company will MASS produce products without proper R&D and even when their whole customer base speaks up against their product the OWNER, none the less, trashes them on public media. It really seems that there was clearly deception on the part of Mayhems. Refund? What do you guys think? I think a refund or compensation with an equivalent product that Mayhems is ordered to stand behind for a specific amount of time. I know someone who would take it on in a second, in a lawyers eyes it would be a no brainer with many avenues of statute.


I think you are shameless troll.
You should read both Mayhems marketing literature for those products you so despise and the disclaimers written on the labels, as well as the sheets included with each bottle, before making ridiculous claims about innocent consumers being deceived by an evil company.
You and your lawyer should sue any company that looks like an appetizing target, maybe you will even succeed in putting a few good enterprises out of business, but you really shouldn't come to public forums trying to rabble-rouse, cause, well, we ain't rabble.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Which video was this? That can do even more damage in the future if not corrected.


If you type Mayhems Blitz Part#1 review I think it will come up I will look later and post the link, here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJldpzPtugw its not Mayhems fault, its DD people









It's funny, some people have complained about what they did after listening his review, but some of the comments are gone now, I've seen the comment they were there after the review (2-3 days later), they took them down for some reason I haven't watched this video in months so i don know if he did the video again, it was very, very misleading to many people.

But anyways, the point was that whether its Mayhems product or others in which mayhem makes it clear what you should or should not do, and that refers not only to Blitz but his coolants and even Biocide, but for some reason people tend to ignore the importance of reading the very important part, the label and then they complaining about disasters.

With pastel or aurora, people mix them so uproportionally or mixed with otter coolants or other dumb things, then they trying to say ....Ooo my pastel lost color after month or so, but they won't mention nothing else they have or haven't done in that matter.

Another example and that was with my own nephew, he got the Biocide Extreme, its on the label 1-2 drops MAX and after 3 months if not changing DI add 1 drop.

This guy add 3 drops right from the get go and than tells me, my nickel plated block is flaking...WTH. I said, do you realize how powerful that product is? I use 1 drop per L ONLY and after 3 months add another drop *ONLY*, my water its pure crystal and blocks are like brand new, this thing works magic but follow instruction, people don't learn








Quote:


> I think you are shameless troll.
> You should read both Mayhems marketing literature for those products you so despise and the disclaimers written on the labels, as well as the sheets included with each bottle, before making ridiculous claims about innocent consumers being deceived by an evil company.
> You and your lawyer should sue any company that looks like an appetizing target, maybe you will even succeed in putting a few good enterprises out of business, but you really shouldn't come to public forums trying to rabble-rouse, cause, well, we ain't rabble.


Yes, there are so many people that have issues because of their own ignorance.


----------



## VSG

Ah I remember now, and yes he's quick at taking down comments that he doesn't like. I unsubbed long ago from his channel.


----------



## zerophase

I just received some mayhems pastel, and noticed it no longer comes with the pour spout. I've seen people using a hook shaped spout for filling their systems, not sure which brand that is or if it even fits the Mayhems 1 liter container. Does anyone know of any spouts that fit the current opening for mayhems pastel premix bottles?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphabet*
> 
> Is it possible to get 3/8" x 5/8" (10/16mm) mayhems tubing onto 7/16" x 5/8" compression fittings by EK, would it be difficult or worse?


Yes it is possible, I've even put 3/8" on 1/2". I have 3/8" tubing on 7/16" Monsoon compressions in my current loop.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Quote:


> 19DELTASNAFU
> 
> You started off well with your first post and Jay and Mayhems have been working with each other as we do with many users and companies. Your second post kind of ruined it but that is your prerogative and right to voice you personal opinion..
> 
> As for Aurora, it is being constantly improved with baby steps how ever we will always consider Aurora a specialist coolant and is sold as such with many warnings and plenty of information and advice what it is used for and how its used. Mayhems is the "only" coolant manufacturer in the water cooling community that actually makes there own fluids from the ground up, We are the only company who invest in looking into issues with other companies products in a attempt to improve our own and were the only company who works the way we do. Some times we get it wrong with support but since we've started over 7 years ago we have improved the world of liquid cooling and colour and looks 10000x fold and we intend to improve that more.
> 
> If you ever wonder why were the only company in the water cooling world that does what we do and does it the way we do it, its because it takes months to years of testing to get it right. If you don't believe this your welcome to visit our Dev center and Factory and see for your self the efforts and advancements Mayhems has made over the year here in the *UK*.
> 
> We didn't just win the Innovation award here in our region in the *UK* for just sitting on our asses
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Mayhems Support


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bridgekeeper*


----------



## tipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*


+1 from me too. Mayhems in my view is a first class company that is bringing innovative products to the market with good customer support
and liaison to improve products even further. Yes things do go wrong sometimes, but people are not always honest about their role in things going wrong.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> +1 from me too. Mayhems in my view is a first class company that is bringing innovative products to the market with good customer support
> and liaison to improve products even further. Yes things do go wrong sometimes, *but people are not always honest about their role in things going wrong*.


Sadly, In most cases they are not honest about it. It's too bad because some times things can and occasionally do go bad, we don't live in a perfect world, and when they do go bad and there is minimum to no trust at all, how can you expect the owner/company to rectify the wrong doing, it's hard.

So far, Mayhems has been good to me I have 0 complaints


----------



## zerophase

Oh yeah, that Tech of Tomorrow video almost caused me to ruin my loop. Luckily, I found the official Mayhems Blitz Pro video. Turns out I just needed part 2 for what I was doing. Tech of Tomorrow should really have their Blitz Pro video taken down. Plus, the channel isn't very professional, the Gigabyte rep looked a bit shocked with what the guy was saying during one of their mobo overviews.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Well, you know, when you use chlorinated tap water to clean out your rad in preparation for a PH sensitive product, things tend to go wrong. My other hobby is homebrewing and as soon as I found out that he'd done that, I knew immediately what had gone wrong.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Well, you know, when you use chlorinated tap water to clean out your rad in preparation for a PH sensitive product, things tend to go wrong. My other hobby is homebrewing and as soon as I found out that he'd done that, I knew immediately what had gone wrong.


Homebrewer here too!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Well, you know, when you use chlorinated tap water to clean out your rad in preparation for a PH sensitive product, things tend to go wrong. My other hobby is homebrewing and as soon as I found out that he'd done that, I knew immediately what had gone wrong.


There's nothing wrong in using tap water to clean rads because you don't let it sit in there for a long time. You just run tap water through your rads. Always use distilled water to flush the rads a couple of times for final flush.

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> There's nothing wrong in using tap water to clean rads because you don't let it sit in there for a long time. You just run tap water through your rads. Always use distilled water to flush the rads a couple of times for final flush.
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/


Who's to say Jay didn't let it sit? He wasn't exactly being truthful from the beginning. I know I wouldn't use my tap water to do any rad cleaning, it's so chlorinated that the taste still comes through in fairly strong coffee.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

I've said it once before, and I'll say it again. Been running my same Pastel Green fluid in my loop for over a year and a half now. No changes in color or suspension. And my rig performs temperature-wise the exact same as the first day I put it in.

All it takes is properly following the directions that the manufacturer provides. I'm willing to bet that a good 95% of the problems that people have with Mayhem's coolants is completely PEBKAC, and it still amazes me that Mayhem's offers such good support even for PEBKAC users.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> There's nothing wrong in using tap water to clean rads because you don't let it sit in there for a long time. You just run tap water through your rads. Always use distilled water to flush the rads a couple of times for final flush.
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/
> 
> 
> 
> Who's to say Jay didn't let it sit? He wasn't exactly being truthful from the beginning. I know I wouldn't use my tap water to do any rad cleaning, it's so chlorinated that the taste still comes through in fairly strong coffee.
Click to expand...

I don't know you're commenting about Jay but my reply purely regarding using tap water to clean the radiator. I use tap water, hot filtered water & finally distilled water, basically following the guide above. And I use Pastel over a year without any problem nor discoloration. Jay problem most likely he didn't clean the rads properly. The key here is doing it properly. I have read a couple of people using blitz or distilled only but still have problem with Pastel.


----------



## iBruce

Ok I picked up the Mayhems Bliltz Part One, should I run hot water from the bathroom faucet through the rads for 30minutes in either direction before or after the acid Blitz ?

And do I really need the Blitz One for Hardware Labs rads? Heard they are pretty clean.

Thinking I should Blitz for 6 hours then hot water both directions for 30 minutes each then some distilled rinses and shakes after that.

Also, will the Blitz diluted acid solution discolor the new radiators surface finish when pouring it out if some drips out of the ports?

These rads are very nice looking I don't want to strip the paint or anything. Kinda scared.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5304_zpsobmlggqq.jpg.html


----------



## 414347

I have the same radiators 4x 480 and they are indeed very clean, but honestly, it won't hurt to run Blitz #1, if anything it will help.
Run it for 6 hours and rinse very well with hot water several times. Afterwards, run Blitz #2 through your whole system for few hours to neutralize the acid and rinse it again several times (10-12 times) yes make sure it's all gone as it might affect your final coolant if there are some remains.
Your system will be nice and clean, blitz is really great product.


----------



## iBruce

(4) x 480 Multiports? They are so expensive.

I only have one MP 280 and one MP 240, that's all my small case will hold, and believe the two rads were close to $250 with sales tax.

How much do (4) MP 480s cost? $600?









Thank you +rep, will take your advice.

Everyone has a larger build than me. (shuffles feet and walks away)

edit: it's way over $600 and I was only guessing.









Watching a Mayhems video.

I'll be back after minor dunsetting. That's what he says in the video...


----------



## 414347

Yes you're very close it was $700 after the US exchange.
Prior to those radiators I've had hardware labs GTX 480 stealth edition they were awesome and the only reason I change them was for the multiport. I sold all four of them within a week for pretty much the same price I bought them.
This is one of my older pictures that I took with my phone 

I will upload my new photos. This workstation its fully automated now, it has a lot more to it, it has added 4x Poweradjust and farbwerk along with aquaero 6XT with AC RGBs, it has 21 silent fans, they run 600RPM when they are on, most of the time only top fans are working, top left/right, bottom left/right are for separate loops, very bottom is drainage for 2 separate loops after draining all liquid, there is almost non liquid left, except very small about at the bottom rads up to the mini valves, it was lot of work, but was all worth while.
This workstation is dead silent and frosty cold.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Yes you're very close it was $700 after the US exchange.
> pPrior to those radiators I've had hardware labs GTX 480 stealth edition they were awesome the only reason I change them for the multiport I sold all four of them within a week for pretty much the same price I bought them
> this is one of my older pictures that I took with my phone.
> I will upload my new photos this workstation has a lot more to it now and colored wires You see It was just for testing now everything is sleeved and organized


WOW, we want more photos please, post them in the CaseLabs Club, I'll be waiting for them.









Multiport is the way to go, if you ask me, I'm barely a beginner at W/C only owned one XSPC RX V3 360 rad, moved to these HWL Multiports. So many options and I needed that side port to run straight into a CaseLabs S8S side chamber, only cooling a delidded binned 4.8GHz 6700K air cooling my video card, but since it's an inaudible rig running pump and fans at extremely low rpms, so needed the extra surface area for good temps.

280+240, I hope that's enough cooling for a single 6700K OC'd at a daily 4.6GHz.

Here's the side port access I'm trying to achieve, into that rectangular cut-out.





.


----------



## 414347

Yes multiport helps and you seem to find your way to take the advantage already, it seems that what your working on will be class build.
The only beef I have with the new Multiport Rad oppose to the older GTX Stealth like this 1 was the paint job. I really liked the texture of the older rads, the paint (texture) was really durable, with the new multiport rads you have to be pretty carful, paint seems easy to scratch.
I have huge build log that I have submitted to CL along with ton of pictures, but I asked them not to post it until I will update my build log and pics as few things have changed







the total cost came to just shy of $17K


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Yes multiport helps and you seem to find your way to take the advantage already, it seems that what your working on will be class build.
> The only beef I have with the new Multiport Rad oppose to the older GTX Stealth like this 1 was the paint job. I really liked the texture of the older rads, the paint (texture) was really durable, with the new multiport rads you have to be pretty carful, paint seems easy to scratch.
> I have huge build log that I have submitted to CL along with ton of pictures, but I asked them not to post it until I will update my build log and pics as few things have changed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the total cost came to just shy of $17K


$17,000 dollars?



Just kidding. Like I said would be great to have an ocn thread detailing total costs and let everyone know what it takes to build some of these amazing rigs, good information for beginners contemplating a build, think I'm at about $5.500 right now, and my rig is small, just the way I like it.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5310_zpswicy1mk7.jpg.html


----------



## 414347

ya $17K.
Just between GPUs 3xTitan Black and CPU 4960X alone its almost $6K







, 64GB of Dominator $2000, the custom loops alone I think might be at least around $3000, at least








Put it this way, there is roughly 35-40 of this fittings , I think it's at least $450-500 just for them and this are only few among ton of other fittings and I use a lot bitspower 90 degree rotary black matte, they are almost $18 per 1 and I have ton of them, anyways done bragging, sorry I got carry away









Funny, because I'm thinking on building small unit this time..








It would be nice to move it where I want it, oppose to this 200lb workstation just sits in my office and if I want to add things and move around I have to ask my 20 year old son to help me









There is good and bad to both sizes of builds, but it all depends also of whether you want your pc to be quiet and at the same time to be as cool is possible, the only way to achieve that is more rad area...period.

Then again, to some 4960X or 5960X OC to 4.4 and up running on full load at 80C-85C its good, for me no, big no I will not allow my CPU to go any higher than 65-70 MAX

To give you an example, my ambient is usually 21-23 C degree, my delta on full load when decrypting passwords utilizing 3xGPU's at 100% and CPU 100% all at the same time, my delta is between 5-7C degree and all 21 fans are running between 700-900 RMP, you cannot achieve that with small build, or I should say you can, but you have to make your fans scream loud, which is snot crucial to many people


----------



## 414347

do you have parts list you going to use in your build i would be curious


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ya $17K.
> Just between GPUs 3xTitan Black and CPU 4960X alone its almost $6K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , 64GB of Dominator $2000, the custom loops alone I think might be at least around $3000, at least
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put it this way, there is roughly 35-40 of this fittings , I think it's at least $450-500 just for them and this are only few among ton of other fittings and I use a lot bitspower 90 degree rotary black matte, they are almost $18 per 1 and I have ton of them, anyways done bragging, sorry I got carry away
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny, because I'm thinking on building small unit this time..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would be nice to move it where I want it, oppose to this 200lb workstation just sits in my office and if I want to add things and move around I have to ask my 20 year old son to help me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is good and bad to both sizes of builds, but it all depends also of whether you want your pc to be quiet and at the same time to be as cool is possible, the only way to achieve that is more rad area...period.
> 
> Then again, to some 4960X or 5960X OC to 4.4 and up running on full load at 80C-85C its good, for me no, big no I will not allow my CPU to go any higher than 65-70 MAX
> 
> To give you an example, my ambient is usually 21-23 C degree, my delta on full load when decrypting passwords utilizing 3xGPU's at 100% and CPU 100% all at the same time, my delta is between 5-7C degree and all 21 fans are running between 700-900 RMP, you cannot achieve that with small build, or I should say you can, but you have to make your fans scream loud, which is snot crucial to many people


Wow what a machine?









yea my little rig only needs 12 flow fittings to operate and a few stop fittings. But I'm not decrypting passwords, and only one KingPin GPU and only creating good things for people.


----------



## 414347

You get to the point of your build that don't matter what else you add to it, it won't make any difference in either performance or practicality.

The moment you decide to watercool your PC and you fall in love with the toys of watercooling components the rationality of any enthusiast builder is out the window, most of us go for the most we can get, don't matter how insanely might look to others.

As a matter of fact, some of the smallest builds around M8 and M10 I have seen are so tastefully done, that there is no need for huge amount of components to make them look amazingly good and I'm sure the performance its great as well.

I've been thinking about small unit for a long time now, maybe I should go for it to get that urge out of my system


----------



## iBruce

OK, I've completed Blitz part one, and still unsure why I need to use part two in a new system with all brand new clean parts, clean res clean monoblock, clean tubing, why do I need part two?

Is there a reason?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> OK, I've completed Blitz part one, and still unsure why I need to use part two in a new system with all brand new clean parts, clean res clean monoblock, clean tubing, why do I need part two?
> 
> Is there a reason?


Well for one, part one made your radiator a low pH. You need to neutralize it if your using Pastels or something like that.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Well for one, part one made your radiator a low pH. You need to neutralize it if your using Pastels or something like that.


not using pastels, only Mayhems pure water and Mayhems X1 concentrate.

running clear fluid.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> not using pastels, only Mayhems pure water and Mayhems X1 concentrate.
> 
> running clear fluid.


I would still neutralize it using part 2. Also, I don't know if this is true or accurate, but I would neutralize it if you are using nickel plated metals, such as waterblocks.


----------



## muzammil84

Hi everyone, could you post some pics of your Mayhems pastel UV white coolant if anyone runs it? Mine seems to have turquoiseish colour under UV light. I don't mind it, in fact i quite like it but is it the colour that supposed to be? or is it my UV light source? Using some 5mm UV leds from ebay(sold separately, had to solder them and connect together, 395nm wavelength stated). Also using Mayhems clear flexible tubing


----------



## Fyrwulf

UV White anything tends to glow blue.


----------



## 414347

You should run Blitz #2 to neutralize the acid that I'm sure might be still present somewhere in your radiator, to be safe, you don't have to, but It could gives you piece of mind.
Even if you using only Distilled in your loop and non of pastel or aurora, Blitz #1 is heavily concentrated acid, so it's nice to get rid of all that. + even if your system is new and clean, it won't hurt to shampoo your blocks and tubing's.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> UV White anything tends to glow blue


I haven't seen white UV being pure white yet I don't think its possible, tbh. that tinge of tint in your white looks really nice







I'm so tempted to get white myself, it would go nicely with my build


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Hi everyone, could you post some pics of your Mayhems pastel UV white coolant if anyone runs it? Mine seems to have turquoiseish colour under UV light. I don't mind it, in fact i quite like it but is it the colour that supposed to be? or is it my UV light source? Using some 5mm UV leds from ebay(sold separately, had to solder them and connect together, 395nm wavelength stated). Also using Mayhems clear flexible tubing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> UV White anything tends to *glow blue*.












TCO


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Hi everyone, could you post some pics of your Mayhems pastel UV white coolant if anyone runs it? Mine seems to have turquoiseish colour under UV light. I don't mind it, in fact i quite like it but is it the colour that supposed to be? or is it my UV light source? Using some 5mm UV leds from ebay(sold separately, had to solder them and connect together, 395nm wavelength stated). Also using Mayhems clear flexible tubing


Not sure what it's supposed to look like, but that in your system looks nice. I'm a fan of teal. I want a flamed or quilted maple top guitar in teal, so sexy.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Well, I just ordered some Oil Black X1 and some Aurora Gold Booster... Let's see how well they mix...


----------



## FXformat

My mayhems pastel white...hmm i'm starting to notice brownish color on the flex tubing, the acrylics are still clear but the flex tubing is starting to get dirty cream color..


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> My mayhems pastel white...hmm i'm starting to notice brownish color on the flex tubing, the acrylics are still clear but the flex tubing is starting to get dirty cream color..


what tubing is that? Is it Mayhems too? how long it's been running with your pastel white?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> what tubing is that? Is it Mayhems too? how long it's been running with your pastel white?


Bitspower 16mm Acrylic tubing, not sure if Mayhems make their own rigid tubing? I've never seen it, it's been 2 weeks since the white pastel...i was running clear DI water before that.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> what tubing is that? Is it Mayhems too? how long it's been running with your pastel white?
> 
> 
> 
> Bitspower 16mm Acrylic tubing, not sure if Mayhems make their own rigid tubing? I've never seen it, it's been 2 weeks since the white pastel...i was running clear DI water before that.
Click to expand...

He is asking about the flexible tube you use in the loop.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> My mayhems pastel white...hmm i'm starting to notice brownish color on the flex tubing, the acrylics are still clear but the flex tubing is starting to get dirty cream color..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The hard-line tube going into the fitting (circled) does not look to be seated very well.
Best check it ASAP.
Maybe an illusion of the photo, but looks out of whack to me.


----------



## 414347

I'm almost sure, the brown/yellow staining on flex tubing its plasticizer, it will be more obvious when using white or lighter liquids.
I know that some configurations are complicated and harder to accomplish, but that's why I didn't use even small amount of soft tubing in my system, all hard acrylic, otherwise it will partly defeat the purpose of hard tubing (avoiding plasticizer leaks)


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The hard-line tube going into the fitting (circled) does not look to be seated very well.
> Best check it ASAP.
> Maybe an illusion of the photo, but looks out of whack to me.


You're right i was inspecting the flex tubing and i nudged that rigid tube and it was lodged like that...i pushed it back in, thanks for bringing it to my attention.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I'm almost sure, the brown/yellow staining on flex tubing its plasticizer, it will be more obvious when using white or lighter liquids.
> I know that some configurations are complicated and harder to accomplish, but that's why I didn't use even small amount of soft tubing in my system, all hard acrylic, otherwise it will partly defeat the purpose of hard tubing (avoiding plasticizer leaks)


This case is a slim case, hence the GPU mount vertically, so i do not have access to put a rigid line back there. The top port of the rad is hitting the case i have to swivel around it. The only way to put hard tubing in this case in this configuration is throw this case out the window and get a normal people's case. If there was an option i would do it. Also this pump, the ports are not squared to each other, it's at an awkward angle.


----------



## Alpina 7

Whats up guys.. For those of you interested, Ive recorded me adding 2 predator 360's to my Corsair 760T along with clear tubing and pastel red coolant. Not the best quality video but it'll have to do







i worked hard on it non the less so i Would appreciate everyone support, likes and shares. Thanks in advance.


----------



## 414347

Nice video, thanks for posting, definitely like the red coolant


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Nice video, thanks for posting, definitely like the red coolant


thanks man!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

OK!!! So I have a report back about the Aurora2 that was given to me for free by mayhems when I built and assembled the S3 (Southern Persuasion)

About a month or so after the inital application of the Aurora 2 (Red) was added, I noticed that the pump speed was decreasing in small incriments. Initially I was at 84 gal/hr.

After a month it had dropped to 75-78 Gal/hr.

Then another month went by and we had flatlined to 67 Gal/hour. After the first month the particles were completely gone. And just red fluid was cycling through.

TODAY! I was going to drain the system and replace with clear distilled. I started to drain the reservoir first. Filled it back up with distilled fluid and cycled the system once. It was still very very dark red. So I drained the res again and a tad amount of air went through the cpu block and to the gpu block. I filled the Reservoir back again with distilled and powered on. I wanted the fluid level to be slightly lower this time around from the inlet of the Res in order to grab a small amount of air on the way through the system.

Low and behold! The System is back to 78Gal/Hr and all of the particles are cycling through the system!



TCO


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> OK!!! So I have a report back about the Aurora2 that was given to me for free by mayhems when I built and assembled the S3 (Southern Persuasion)
> 
> TCO


I've also had luck "refreshing" aurora. It was a similar deal but I don't have a flowmeter so I'm not sure about my flow rates. I noticed while draining, that I was kicking up a lot of the settled particles. I completely disassembled everything and carefully drained everything into a clean, glass container. Once I refilled it looked good as new! Unfortunately it only lasted half as long as before and was dead again within a couple weeks :\ currently running distilled but I'm thinking about setting up separate loops for cpu\gpus so I can simplify each loop and maybe run a couple different colors


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Okay, quick question...

I recently ordered 2 liters of Mayhem's X1 Oil Black coolant (along with some other stuff) from Performance PCs and received the package today. When I opened the box to check my order, the bottles say X1 UV Black. Is this the same thing?


----------



## Nihaan

Hello

A few months ago i purchased 5 of X1 and 5 of XT-1 concentrate. Today i was planning to install my new cpu block and do a little maintenance to my loop and i saw that my unopened x1 and xt-1s changed color and turned to yellowish. They were unopened, i kept them in a box and i kept them in room temperature all the time. Do they have such short life time or am i facing an issue here ?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nihaan*
> 
> Hello
> 
> A few months ago i purchased 5 of X1 and 5 of XT-1 concentrate. Today i was planning to install my new cpu block and do a little maintenance to my loop and i saw that my unopened x1 and xt-1s changed color and turned to yellowish. They were unopened, i kept them in a box and i kept them in room temperature all the time. Do they have such short life time or am i facing an issue here ?


You should contact Mayhems directly explaining the situation. Probably best to provide a picture also. Nothing we can do really.


----------



## gdubc

They should have a date of manufacture printed on the bottle. All of the coolant at my local Microcenter is either a year old, or the dates are rubbed off to where you can't tell.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nihaan*
> 
> Hello
> 
> A few months ago i purchased 5 of X1 and 5 of XT-1 concentrate. Today i was planning to install my new cpu block and do a little maintenance to my loop and i saw that my unopened x1 and xt-1s changed color and turned to yellowish. They were unopened, i kept them in a box and i kept them in room temperature all the time. Do they have such short life time or am i facing an issue here ?


What was the original color? Do you have pics?


----------



## 414347

I have been told by Mick himself that most liquids have up to 3 years of shelf life, but that depends on where you keep it.
I wouldn't be surprised if the bottles you have are past its expiration date.

This is not relevant, but here is example of hilarious stupidity by some store owners.
Where I live people love sushi and seaweed and on few occasion couple guys from work brought seaweed and when they opened, the taste was worse than it is already to begin with, in my opinion, one guy looked at the expire date and the date before expiration was still 3 weeks, but when we took a closer look we could tell the label was nuked, the expiration underneath showed 2013 and this was this year, yes I'm not joking and this happened on 3 different occasions from different places, of course with different expiration dates, but what some store owners will do for few $.

One of this places got sued, so he had no choice but to close the doors.
I wouldn't put past that yours might be similar scenario I could be wrong but you never know


----------



## grassy

I have the Mayhems Pastel Red and am wondering if i have to mix it with distilled water. It does not say that it is a concentrate on the bottle.It don't even tell me the amount of liquid that is in the bottle. Come on mayhems spend a bit of money on some ink.I am assuming that concentrate would mean i would have to mix it.No mention of concentrate.Very uninformative on the use of the product.Looks good though.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassy*
> 
> I have the Mayhems Pastel Red and am wondering if i have to mix it with distilled water. It does not say that it is a concentrate on the bottle.It don't even tell me the amount of liquid that is in the bottle. Come on mayhems spend a bit of money on some ink.I am assuming that concentrate would mean i would have to mix it.No mention of concentrate.Very uninformative on the use of the product.Looks good though.


If it is the 250ml bottle, then yes it is concentrate and you have to mix it. One bottle mixes with 750ml of distilled water to make a total of 1L of coolant. Also, the concentrate ones do say concentrate right on the bottle and even have mixing instructions. Not really sure what you are looking at, do you have a picture of yours?

https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/pastel-coolants/pastel-concentrate-250ml/red-250ml/


----------



## grassy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> If it is the 250ml bottle, then yes it is concentrate and you have to mix it. One bottle mixes with 750ml of distilled water to make a total of 1L of coolant. Also, the concentrate ones do say concentrate right on the bottle and even have mixing instructions. Not really sure what you are looking at, do you have a picture of yours?
> 
> https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/pastel-coolants/pastel-concentrate-250ml/red-250ml/


Thanks Touge for the reassurance,the picture is above my post.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassy*
> 
> 
> I have the Mayhems Pastel Red and am wondering if i have to mix it with distilled water. It does not say that it is a concentrate on the bottle.It don't even tell me the amount of liquid that is in the bottle. Come on mayhems spend a bit of money on some ink.I am assuming that concentrate would mean i would have to mix it.No mention of concentrate.Very uninformative on the use of the product.Looks good though.


There are only two size of bottles for Pastel. 250ml is concentrate & 1L is pre-mix. But yeah should be at least label it as concentrate or pre-mix. If I remember correctly old bottle even have instruction to mix it with distilled.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassy*
> 
> Thanks Touge for the reassurance,the picture is above my post.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> There are only two size of bottles for Pastel. 250ml is concentrate & 1L is pre-mix. But yeah should be at least label it as concentrate or pre-mix. If I remember correctly old bottle even have instruction to mix it with distilled.


That is weird, the bottle says nothing. Maybe that's an old bottle? Like kizwan said, concentrate only came in a 250ml bottle. How big is that bottle?


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Okay, quick question...
> 
> I recently ordered 2 liters of Mayhem's X1 Oil Black coolant (along with some other stuff) from Performance PCs and received the package today. When I opened the box to check my order, the bottles say X1 UV Black. Is this the same thing?


Also, how is the Heatkiller IV Basic in terms of usage with Aurora? Are there any issues to worry about?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/heatkillerr-iv-basic-intel-processor-acryl-clean.html

Personally, I'd love to do a complete monoblock, but there are none available for the RIVBE in copper and plexi...


----------



## grassy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> That is weird, the bottle says nothing. Maybe that's an old bottle? Like kizwan said, concentrate only came in a 250ml bottle. How big is that bottle?


That's what i thought, i gather it would be 1 liter but no mention of that on the label. Even on the back it has no label.I gather it's already mixed.Fancy not putting any valuable info on the label,what are they thinking.Thanks mate i will just try and wing it.


----------



## grassy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> There are only two size of bottles for Pastel. 250ml is concentrate & 1L is pre-mix. But yeah should be at least label it as concentrate or pre-mix. If I remember correctly old bottle even have instruction to mix it with distilled.


Thanks Kizwan, i have a funny feeling it is pre mixed too. I am about to fill my loop for the very first time to check for leaks but i will use just distilled water for that then i will use the coolant after i have checked that i am good to go.Thanks mate


----------



## grassy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Also, how is the Heatkiller IV Basic in terms of usage with Aurora? Are there any issues to worry about?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/heatkillerr-iv-basic-intel-processor-acryl-clean.html
> 
> Personally, I'd love to do a complete monoblock, but there are none available for the RIVBE in copper and plexi...


Yea me too as i have the Black Edition also. I have the Heatkiller 4 pro and will be anxious to find out how it performs with the pastel red tomorrow.


----------



## iBruce

How much will my temps rise working just above idle for 10hours a day, if I go with Mayhems Ice White instead of the Mayhems X1 clear and Mayhems Pure H2O? Running a 4.6GHz oc on the 6700K.

Mixing the Ice White with the Mayhems Pure H2O would be plan B.

Just keep staring at this monoblock and cannot decide, really its just a boring work rig, reliability and thermal efficiency should be paramount over any bling the white fluid will add, but the enthusiast inside is screaming for the white fluid.

What to do?









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5327_zpsjaitta6g.jpg.html


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> How much will my temps rise working just above idle for 10hours a day, if I go with Mayhems Ice White instead of the Mayhems X1 clear and Mayhems Pure H2O? Running a 4.6GHz oc on the 6700K.
> 
> Mixing the Ice White with the Mayhems Pure H2O would be plan B.
> 
> Just keep staring at this monoblock and cannot decide, really its just a boring work rig, reliability and thermal efficiency should be paramount over any bling the white fluid will add, but the enthusiast inside is screaming for the white fluid.
> 
> What to do?


Go for Mayhems Extreme White and mix it down as far as it will go.
1x 100ml is enough for 4L.
You get colour but still keeps the solution close to pure H20.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Go for Mayhems Extreme White and mix it down as far as it will go.
> 1x 100ml is enough for 4L.
> You get colour but still keeps the solution close to pure H20.


Thanks +repps

Blitzing tomorrow, will pick up some Xtreme White on Monday. Set up a Blitz assembly consisting of lengths of soft tube about 20inches long with some throw away fittings and a funnel. So any excess will not spill onto the rad surface and will instead climb up the other tube. Also able to use both soft tubes to hot water flush (at medium or low pressure) from the copper tube coming out of the wall, 7/16ths inner diameter was an ideal fit right out of the mains.

So if the Pastel White looks like whole milk, what is the Xtreme white diluted down going to look like?









The fiancee is already making body fluid jokes about my work computer all morning long, and I'm not liking it.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Go for Mayhems Extreme White and mix it down as far as it will go.
> 1x 100ml is enough for 4L.
> You get colour but still keeps the solution close to pure H20.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks +repps
> 
> Blitzing tomorrow, will pick up some Xtreme White on Monday. Set up a Blitz assembly consisting of lengths of soft tube about 20inches long with some throw away fittings and a funnel. So any excess will not spill onto the rad surface and will instead climb up the other tube. Also able to use both soft tubes to hot water flush (at medium or low pressure) from the copper tube coming out of the wall, 7/16ths inner diameter was an ideal fit right out of the mains.
> 
> So if the Pastel White looks like whole milk, what is the Xtreme white diluted down going to look like?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fiancee is already making body fluid jokes about my work computer all morning long, and I'm not liking it.
Click to expand...

All things can be answered by His Holiness of Manliness, Ron Swanson.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> So if the Pastel White looks like whole milk, what is the Xtreme white diluted down going to look like?


Not sure, but it seems I missed a little on the numbers: Pastel Extreme is next evolutionary step in concentrated Nano fluids, being only 100ml in size it can be diluted up to a maximum of 3.5 Ltrs of fluid for colouring.
So not quite as diluted as I though.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> That is weird, the bottle says nothing. Maybe that's an old bottle? Like kizwan said, concentrate only came in a 250ml bottle. *How big is that bottle?*


8oz



Far as I can tell, Mayhems uses the same bottle for the pastel concentrates also.

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm getting bored of the white pastel. Thinking of maybe adding red dye. Why do you think?


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 8oz
> 
> 
> 
> Far as I can tell, Mayhems uses the same bottle for the pastel concentrates also.
> 
> TCO


Yep, my white pastel bottle looked identical.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm getting bored of the white pastel. Thinking of maybe adding red dye. Why do you think?


I think that might be too much red. Only way I can see it not being too much, are if you swap everything that is red with white, so its the same balance as you have now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touge180SX*
> 
> Yep, my white pastel bottle looked identical.


I will go dye the next time I drain loops.

TCO


----------



## Nihaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You should contact Mayhems directly explaining the situation. Probably best to provide a picture also. Nothing we can do really.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> What was the original color? Do you have pics?


I sent them an e-mail but i didnt receive a reply yet.

Here are the pictures of it. They are not even at equal level.... As you see color changed so badly.

I hope they can help me.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> I think that might be too much red. Only way I can see it not being too much, are if you swap everything that is red with white, so its the same balance as you have now.


I can always swap the SP120s to white, but the fittings is where I need to do something. I'm thinking about plasti-dipping them.


----------



## side37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nihaan*
> 
> I sent them an e-mail but i didnt receive a reply yet.
> 
> Here are the pictures of it. They are not even at equal level.... As you see color changed so badly.
> 
> I hope they can help me.


Both of my XT-1 clear bottles also had a yellow tinge. I had the white opaque bottles so didn't notice if the levels were different. I figured it was normal and used it, doesn't seem to be a problem once diluted.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nihaan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You should contact Mayhems directly explaining the situation. Probably best to provide a picture also. Nothing we can do really.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> What was the original color? Do you have pics?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I sent them an e-mail but i didnt receive a reply yet.
> 
> Here are the pictures of it. They are not even at equal level.... As you see color changed so badly.
> 
> I hope they can help me.
Click to expand...

These are really old bottles we haven't made these in a very long time. They will still be fine and colour change is due to age nothing more. All clear coolant concentrates go yellow over long periods of time how ever are still fine. The mix ratio for them is on the side and is a 5% to 10% ratio.

Ref fill levels on these bottles, any thing over the line is a bonus







. These were filled by hand in the past now we have filling systems that are more accurate.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm getting bored of the white pastel. Thinking of maybe adding red dye. Why do you think?


I tried that and all I got was pink. A very nice pink if you were doing a pink build.









I used about 20 drops of red dye, I don't think I would have gotten red if I dumped the entire bottle of dye in there.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

*plays the Jeopardy theme*


----------



## Nihaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> These are really old bottles we haven't made these in a very long time. They will still be fine and colour change is due to age nothing more. All clear coolant concentrates go yellow over long periods of time how ever are still fine. The mix ratio for them is on the side and is a 5% to 10% ratio.
> 
> Ref fill levels on these bottles, any thing over the line is a bonus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These were filled by hand in the past now we have filling systems that are more accurate.


Thanks for the reply.

So if i use those i won't face any issues and since i am planning to use it just together with pure water with no dye, color of it wont become yellow right ?


----------



## skygunner58203

So I purchased some new parts and coolant for my rig. I'm running a Monsoon modular reservoir, an XSPC 240 rad in push/pull, XSPC CPU block, AquaComputer KryoGraphics block on my R9 Nano, and Mayhems Pastel Orange. Its been running for a little over two weeks on the new configuration. This morning, my wife found black goo on the inside of the res after getting a temp warning of some critically high temps somewhere in the system. Here's a pic of the goo. Any ideas what to do other than cleaning it out (which I plan to do this weekend)? I don't want my system to cook itself. I rather like the Orange Pastel, but two weeks is rather quick for a coolant rated for up to 3 years to go bad


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skygunner58203*
> 
> So I purchased some new parts and coolant for my rig. I'm running a Monsoon modular reservoir, an XSPC 240 rad in push/pull, XSPC CPU block, AquaComputer KryoGraphics block on my R9 Nano, and Mayhems Pastel Orange. Its been running for a little over two weeks on the new configuration. This morning, my wife found black goo on the inside of the res after getting a temp warning of some critically high temps somewhere in the system. Here's a pic of the goo. Any ideas what to do other than cleaning it out (which I plan to do this weekend)? I don't want my system to cook itself. I rather like the Orange Pastel, but two weeks is rather quick for a coolant rated for up to 3 years to go bad


Did you clean the radiator before building your water cooling loop?


----------



## iBruce

"Soaking in the Tub"

Got the HWLs soaking for 6hours in the bathtub, found a rubber duck to hang out with them.

Had to purchase 6 chrome plated XSPC stop fittings 1) because they were cheap, only 1.49 each, 2) found out the Delrin POM extra stops that arrive with the MultiPort rads will melt or react with the Blitz solution, and 3) also found out nickel chromium plating does not react with the Blitz acid soln. but if things do go awry I should see bright chrome partials in the outgoing solution.

I hope the Blitz does not react with Primochill Advanced tubing, at least not within 6hours, I did not want to pour the acid solution anywhere near the rads or top off with a stop plug and have excess spill over and possibly discolor these beautiful new HWL rad Sooooo, added two lengths of tubing and via capillary action and an easy visual could see when the acid bath was filling up the out tubing length, easy peasy, baby...









Placed the rads on their original cardboard packaging, I'm afraid to place them even on a terrycloth towel since the towel fibers might push on those 20micron thin fins, no no no, they must remain pretty.

So far all filled up and all is dry and solution contained, no explosions as of yet.









I wore all the safety gear, took some pics, since the fiancee loves that sexy scientist in the lab what's on the slab persona, oh never had this much fun soaking radiators before.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5377_zps87geibrm.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5378_zpsdazhmxl9.jpg.html


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> "Soaking in the Tub"
> 
> Got the HWLs soaking for 6hours in the bathtub, found a rubber duck to hang out with them.
> 
> Had to purchase 6 chrome plated XSPC stop fittings 1) because they were cheap, only 1.49 each, 2) found out the Delrin POM extra stops that arrive with the MultiPort rads will melt or react with the Blitz solution, and 3) also found out nickel chromium plating does not react with the Blitz acid soln. but if things do go awry I should see bright chrome partials in the outgoing solution.
> 
> I hope the Blitz does not react with Primochill Advanced tubing, at least not within 6hours, I did not want to pour the acid solution anywhere near the rads or top off with a stop plug and have excess spill over and possibly discolor these beautiful new HWL rad Sooooo, added two lengths of tubing and via capillary action and an easy visual could see when the acid bath was filling up the out tubing length, easy peasy, baby...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Placed the rads on their original cardboard packaging, I'm afraid to place them even on a terrycloth towel since the towel fibers might push on those 20micron thin fins, no no no, they must remain pretty.
> 
> So far all filled up and all is dry and solution contained, no explosions as of yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wore all the safety gear, took some pics, since the fiancee loves that sexy scientist in the lab what's on the slab persona, oh never had this much fun soaking radiators before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5377_zps87geibrm.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5378_zpsdazhmxl9.jpg.html


nice work!


----------



## skygunner58203

Yup. I cleaned out my rad and my blocks with vinegar and distilled water. Made sure to rinse thoroughly. I plan to do it again this weekend but I'm still trying to figure out the cause. What's a good coolant to use if I don't want to use distilled water?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skygunner58203*
> 
> Yup. I cleaned out my rad and my blocks with vinegar and distilled water. Made sure to rinse thoroughly. I plan to do it again this weekend but I'm still trying to figure out the cause. What's a good coolant to use if I don't want to use distilled water?


x1 is good, comes in colors or clear.


----------



## Fyrwulf

So I had my rads powder coated and part of the treatment process to strip the original finish was an acid bath followed by a phosphate bath to neutralize the acid. Do I need to use my Blitz part 1 to clean the rads? If so, do I need to take extra precautions to protect the powder coat?


----------



## jodybdesigns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> So I had my rads powder coated and part of the treatment process to strip the original finish was an acid bath followed by a phosphate bath to neutralize the acid. Do I need to use my Blitz part 1 to clean the rads? If so, do I need to take extra precautions to protect the powder coat?


I thought powder coat was pretty tough and holds up to the elements pretty well. You should be fine in my 2 cents.


----------



## Iceman2733

Question I recently built a system and went with X1 Blood Red in 1l premix (i didn't want to mess with mixing) I am now wanting to go with a lighter shade of red and looking at X1 Clear as a base but question can I use the X1 Red Concentrate 100ml with the X1 Clear? I see the both say they can be used with dyes and DI but I wasn't sure how they would react with each other. Wanted to ask before I make the purchase, also with changing colors does running some distilled thru the system good enough?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Question I recently built a system and went with X1 Blood Red in 1l premix (i didn't want to mess with mixing) I am now wanting to go with a lighter shade of red and looking at X1 Clear as a base but question can I use the X1 Red Concentrate 100ml with the X1 Clear? I see the both say they can be used with dyes and DI but I wasn't sure how they would react with each other. Wanted to ask before I make the purchase, also with changing colors does running some distilled thru the system good enough?


Ya, that is fine to mix. Just don't mix the xt1 with the other stuff.

Wow, just seen it was 2 days 'til you got answered. Awful lonely in here without Mick....


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Ya, that is fine to mix. Just don't mix the xt1 with the other stuff.
> 
> Wow, just seen it was 2 days 'til you got answered. Awful lonely in here without Mick....


Thanks big time my friend I appreciate the answer, I was getting beginning to think this thread had died. Thought I would like Blood Red but sheesh that stuff is dark and even with twin 30cm of led lights still hard to see the color.

With flushing colors do I just need to run distilled water thru it?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Ya, that is fine to mix. Just don't mix the xt1 with the other stuff.
> 
> Wow, just seen it was 2 days 'til you got answered. Awful lonely in here without Mick....
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks big time my friend I appreciate the answer, I was getting beginning to think this thread had died. Thought I would like Blood Red but sheesh that stuff is dark and even with twin 30cm of led lights still hard to see the color.
> 
> With flushing colors do I just need to run distilled water thru it?
Click to expand...

If it wasnt long ago you would probably be fine to just drain some of the blood red premix into a container and then add the clear. That way you can add more red back if you get it too light.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Question I recently built a system and went with X1 Blood Red in 1l premix (i didn't want to mess with mixing) I am now wanting to go with a lighter shade of red and looking at X1 Clear as a base but question can I use the X1 Red Concentrate 100ml with the X1 Clear? I see the both say they can be used with dyes and DI but I wasn't sure how they would react with each other. Wanted to ask before I make the purchase, also with changing colors does running some distilled thru the system good enough?
> 
> 
> 
> Ya, that is fine to mix. Just don't mix the xt1 with the other stuff.
> 
> Wow, just seen it was 2 days 'til you got answered. Awful lonely in here without Mick....
Click to expand...

Rather than using concentrate, better use dyes to change the color.


----------



## gdubc

But op wants red to be lighter.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> But op wants red to be lighter.


OP can achieve the same thing with red dye. I don't think it's good idea to mix concentrate with premix unless you mixed the concentrate with DI/distilled water first (125ml concentrate mix with 875ml DI/distilled water for 1L coolant).


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> But op wants red to be lighter.
> 
> 
> 
> OP can achieve the same thing with red dye. I don't think it's good idea to mix concentrate with premix unless you mixed the concentrate with DI/distilled water first (125ml concentrate mix with 875ml DI/distilled water for 1L coolant).
Click to expand...

Is there a reason to this? I am not wanting to mess with dyes just in the fact I have to drain a loop and redo its fluid I would have to drain both for the colors to match perfectly. Is there any other way than dye good sir to get the red? I could get mayhams pure h2o. But will the concentrated red be enough for all the extra stuff like the bio and anti allege properties? Or will I need to run more stuff

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> But op wants red to be lighter.
> 
> 
> 
> OP can achieve the same thing with red dye. I don't think it's good idea to mix concentrate with premix unless you mixed the concentrate with DI/distilled water first (125ml concentrate mix with 875ml DI/distilled water for 1L coolant).
Click to expand...

I assumed that mixing the new clear with the proper ratio of distilled first was a known.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> But op wants red to be lighter.
> 
> 
> 
> OP can achieve the same thing with red dye. I don't think it's good idea to mix concentrate with premix unless you mixed the concentrate with DI/distilled water first (125ml concentrate mix with 875ml DI/distilled water for 1L coolant).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is there a reason to this? I am not wanting to mess with dyes just in the fact I have to drain a loop and redo its fluid I would have to drain both for the colors to match perfectly. Is there any other way than dye good sir to get the red? I could get mayhams pure h2o. But will the concentrated red be enough for all the extra stuff like the bio and anti allege properties? Or will I need to run more stuff
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

To clear up, if your old coolant is fairly new, you would have no problem draining some and adding some premixed clear (bought premixed, or mixed by you, either one) to get the color you want. You will still be covered with a proper mix of biocide, corrosion inhibitor, etc. Alternatively, you could go all new and mix up a batch of clear and add dye until you get what you want. Its not real expensive for the X1 or a bottle of dye and you'd know it's all fresh for not much more work or money.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> But op wants red to be lighter.
> 
> 
> 
> OP can achieve the same thing with red dye. I don't think it's good idea to mix concentrate with premix unless you mixed the concentrate with DI/distilled water first (125ml concentrate mix with 875ml DI/distilled water for 1L coolant).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is there a reason to this? I am not wanting to mess with dyes just in the fact I have to drain a loop and redo its fluid I would have to drain both for the colors to match perfectly. Is there any other way than dye good sir to get the red? I could get mayhams pure h2o. But will the concentrated red be enough for all the extra stuff like the bio and anti allege properties? Or will I need to run more stuff
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Let me get your situation straight first. Currently you have X1 Blood Red running in your system. So right now you want to turn it to lighter shade of red, correct? Or you want to replace it with lighter shade of red coolant?

Concentrate is concentrate. Everything about it, including the additives are in concentrated form. You will need to mix it with correct amount of DI/distilled water per instruction on the bottle/website. If you follow the instruction then the additives (bio & corrosion inhibitor) will be enough to protect your loop. The only way I can think of that can render the additives useless if you mix the concentrate with too much DI/distilled water. If the other way around, less or no DI/distilled water mix with it, I don't know what will happen to your loop with the additives in concentrated form.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> But op wants red to be lighter.
> 
> 
> 
> OP can achieve the same thing with red dye. I don't think it's good idea to mix concentrate with premix unless you mixed the concentrate with DI/distilled water first (125ml concentrate mix with 875ml DI/distilled water for 1L coolant).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is there a reason to this? I am not wanting to mess with dyes just in the fact I have to drain a loop and redo its fluid I would have to drain both for the colors to match perfectly. Is there any other way than dye good sir to get the red? I could get mayhams pure h2o. But will the concentrated red be enough for all the extra stuff like the bio and anti allege properties? Or will I need to run more stuff
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Let me get your situation straight first. Currently you have X1 Blood Red running in your system. So right now you want to turn it to lighter shade of red, correct? Or you want to replace it with lighter shade of red coolant?
> 
> Concentrate is concentrate. Everything about it, including the additives are in concentrated form. You will need to mix it with correct amount of DI/distilled water per instruction on the bottle/website. If you follow the instruction then the additives (bio & corrosion inhibitor) will be enough to protect your loop. The only way I can think of that can render the additives useless if you mix the concentrate with too much DI/distilled water. If the other way around, less or no DI/distilled water mix with it, I don't know what will happen to your loop with the additives in concentrated form.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the post right now I have X1 blood red I want to replace it with a lighter shade of red full fluid change. My main question was can I mix X1 clear with X1 concentrated red, or would it be better to mix X1 concentrated red with the pure h20 stuff they sell

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> But op wants red to be lighter.
> 
> 
> 
> OP can achieve the same thing with red dye. I don't think it's good idea to mix concentrate with premix unless you mixed the concentrate with DI/distilled water first (125ml concentrate mix with 875ml DI/distilled water for 1L coolant).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is there a reason to this? I am not wanting to mess with dyes just in the fact I have to drain a loop and redo its fluid I would have to drain both for the colors to match perfectly. Is there any other way than dye good sir to get the red? I could get mayhams pure h2o. But will the concentrated red be enough for all the extra stuff like the bio and anti allege properties? Or will I need to run more stuff
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Let me get your situation straight first. Currently you have X1 Blood Red running in your system. So right now you want to turn it to lighter shade of red, correct? Or you want to replace it with lighter shade of red coolant?
> 
> Concentrate is concentrate. Everything about it, including the additives are in concentrated form. You will need to mix it with correct amount of DI/distilled water per instruction on the bottle/website. If you follow the instruction then the additives (bio & corrosion inhibitor) will be enough to protect your loop. The only way I can think of that can render the additives useless if you mix the concentrate with too much DI/distilled water. If the other way around, less or no DI/distilled water mix with it, I don't know what will happen to your loop with the additives in concentrated form.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the post right now I have X1 blood red I want to replace it with a lighter shade of red full fluid change. My main question was can I mix X1 clear with X1 concentrated red, or would it be better to mix X1 concentrated red with the pure h20 stuff they sell
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Ok, we established you want to replace your current coolant. You can mix X1 clear *premix* (I'm assuming premix based on your first post) with X1 red concentrate *provided you first mixed the X1 red concentrate with right amount of DI/distilled water per instruction*. The pure h20 they sell is basically distilled water last time I checked.

You want lighter shade, using dye is the proper way to make it lighter.

Someone else may be able to give you better advice on how to get lighter shade of red using dye but I think all you need are X1 clear & red dye. Add one drop of the red dye at a time until you get the shade of red that you want. Just write down how many drops of red dye you need to use, so that you can make the same shade of red coolant in the future.


----------



## gdubc

You wouldn't want to mix the Pure h20 or whatever it is straight in because that would dilute your current mix as it is basically just distilled. The X1 Clear has the additives so you could dilute your current mix with the X1 Clear (properly mixed) or totally replace it all with new clear or red or whatever and add dye. All up to you. How old is the stuff that's in there? It really is probably better to just start fresh, it isn't too costly with X1.


----------



## Iceman2733

Thank you both! Both the loops only been up and running about 3 weeks fairly new and not a lot hours on it. I will be picking up the concentrated X1 Red and a gallon of distilled water locally, from what you guys saying the X1 red has the anti algae and other stuff in it that was my reason for thinking I needed X1 clear. I was just trying to stay away from dye not because of cost but mainly the hassle of trying to get the color I want exactly vs just buying it. Plus I have read about the hassle if I ever have to take one loop down having issues matching it up due to just different drop sizes and such.

I really appreciate both of your inputs I would really love to run pastel or even aurora but this system is a daily for me and I have read too many horror stories to give them a try.

With flushing the loops even tho I am going from a red to a red is there any recommended thing other than flushing with distilled water?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> With flushing the loops even tho I am going from a red to a red is there any recommended thing other than flushing with distilled water?


When getting rid dyed/colored coolant, the best way is to tear down your loop because usually we will not be able to drain all of the coolant from the loop & the remaining of the old coolant may change the color of the new coolant. I have tried myself by filling & running distilled water in the loop for a couple of times to flush the old coolant. It took hours & many times of draining/refilling the loops with distilled water, I'm still unable to get rid the old coolant completely.


----------



## gdubc

Ya, I didn't notice it was 2 loops. If you want them the same than it sounds like a tear down/cleanup is probably in order.


----------



## BrjSan

Quick question for whom ever used mayhems glass tubin, does it need to chamfer the whole rim to fit in the fitting? Is harder to deal with? Giving glass a chance of i am going for rigid.


----------



## szeged

anyone ever make a gunmetal gray with mayhems?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone ever make a gunmetal gray with mayhems?


I think you could achieve it by adding for dye in the mix until you reach the darker color shade you desire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG6y2M6Uvss


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I think you could achieve it by adding for dye in the mix until you reach the darker color shade you desire.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG6y2M6Uvss


thanks, ill have to experiment a bit i guess. If i could get my res gunmetal colored for the new build, it would match everything pretty nicely imo.


----------



## Methodical

Question everyone. I am working on a new build and I may use the Mayhem's Black fluid. What steps do I need to take to ensure that the Black is Black? I ask because I used the Black in my other machine and it turned no so Black. I assume it's a ph issue.

Thanks...Al


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Question everyone. I am working on a new build and I may use the Mayhem's Black fluid. What steps do I need to take to ensure that the Black is Black? I ask because I used the Black in my other machine and it turned no so Black. *I assume it's a ph issue*.
> 
> Thanks...Al


That is correct, one of these fine gentlemen/women in the thread will assist you with the process of Flushing the Rad out.

I for one, have never flushed a rad other than with water, but not have had very good luck with keeping the pastels perfect.

TCO


----------



## MR-e

Mayhems clear fluid question - I'm looking to blitz out my 360's + 240 rads and intend to run Mayhems premix clear with glass or acrylic tubing. I've read reports of water going yellow over time and am wondering what's the best way to preserve the clear look? Not interested in pastel or colour dyes as I only want clear fluid.

Thanks!


----------



## 15goudreau

Pm'd Mayhem haven't heard for a few days and I want to move on my purchase. Any of you guys have thoughts towards a bottle of opened pastel (not used), that has been stored in a cool dark place for 2 years? Think I can use it fresh in a loop or should I just order another bottle and deal with it?


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That is correct, one of these fine gentlemen/women in the thread will assist you with the process of Flushing the Rad out.
> 
> I for one, have never flushed a rad other than with water, but not have had very good luck with keeping the pastels perfect.
> 
> TCO


If flushing the radiator is key, then I should be good then. I already flushed the radiators with Mayhems Blitz Part 1 cleaner.

Thanks


----------



## Bridgekeeper

@15goudreau You need to go to Mayhems support over @ www.mayhems.net for any support questions directed at them.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That is correct, one of these fine gentlemen/women in the thread will assist you with the process of Flushing the Rad out.
> 
> I for one, have never flushed a rad other than with water, but not have had very good luck with keeping the pastels perfect.
> 
> TCO
> 
> 
> 
> If flushing the radiator is key, then I should be good then. I already flushed the radiators with Mayhems Blitz Part 1 cleaner.
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

You need to neutralize the acid after using part 1. I would recommend using the part 2 if you plan to use anything like pastel, better to do it right the first time then have to do it anyway and waste a bunch of expensive fluid. You can also do the baking soda flush to neutralize if you don't want to spend the extra money.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bridgekeeper*
> 
> @15goudreau You need to go to Mayhems support over @ www.mayhems.net for any support questions directed at them.


Good idea, hope to get a response there!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Pm'd Mayhem haven't heard for a few days and I want to move on my purchase. Any of you guys have thoughts towards a bottle of opened pastel (not used), that has been stored in a cool dark place for 2 years? Think I can use it fresh in a loop or should I just order another bottle and deal with it?


I would just replace it. Shelf life in cool dark place is only 2 years if I remember correctly. Also with it not being sealed, I would replace it if it was mine. The new(ish) pastel extreme has a longer shelf life and it mixes to 1-3 liters of coolant depending on personal preferences.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Okay, I have a question...

I have purchased 2 1L bottles of Oil Black (even though the bottle says UV Black, I'm assuming they're the same) and 5 small bottles of Aurora Gold Booster. Will this be enough fluid to properly fill a loop powered by two pumps and consisting of two EK FC980s, a Bitspower RIVBE Monoblock, a Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS, a Black Ice Nemesis GTS280, and two Bitspower Z-Multi 300 reservoirs?

Or do I need to order more?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Okay, I have a question...
> 
> I have purchased 2 1L bottles of Oil Black (even though the bottle says UV Black, I'm assuming they're the same) and 5 small bottles of Aurora Gold Booster. Will this be enough fluid to properly fill a loop powered by two pumps and consisting of two EK FC980s, a Bitspower RIVBE Monoblock, a Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS, a Black Ice Nemesis GTS280, and two Bitspower Z-Multi 300 reservoirs?
> 
> Or do I need to order more?


I believe the booster says not to use more than half the bottle per liter of coolant. I mixed half the bottle with a liter of x1 and it was more than enough booster. 2 liters of fluid should be plenty for your loop though.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Okay, I have a question...
> 
> I have purchased 2 1L bottles of Oil Black (even though the bottle says UV Black, I'm assuming they're the same) and 5 small bottles of Aurora Gold Booster. Will this be enough fluid to properly fill a loop powered by two pumps and consisting of two EK FC980s, a Bitspower RIVBE Monoblock, a Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS, a Black Ice Nemesis GTS280, and two Bitspower Z-Multi 300 reservoirs?
> 
> Or do I need to order more?
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the booster says not to use more than half the bottle per liter of coolant. I mixed half the bottle with a liter of x1 and it was more than enough booster. 2 liters of fluid should be plenty for your loop though.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I figured I went overboard with the booster, but it's better to have too much than not enough.

As to how much I have to use, I may wind up using more or less depending on how it interacts with the oil black.


----------



## lifeskills

Mayhems pastel raspberry purple. since then I switched to the regular pastel purple, which is much darker


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> You need to neutralize the acid after using part 1. I would recommend using the part 2 if you plan to use anything like pastel, better to do it right the first time then have to do it anyway and waste a bunch of expensive fluid. You can also do the baking soda flush to neutralize if you don't want to spend the extra money.


Deedaz, according to Mayhems video, distilled water is only needed to neutralize the acids. Perhaps, I misunderstood it.

Thanks


----------



## 15goudreau

Since I'm probably going to end up buying more coolant, I want to take your guys temperature about Aurora. I couldn't really find a definite answer on the wiki and it's been a while since I have gone through this thread. I know that aurora 2 is longer lasting. Has anyone been running it as a 24/7 system assuming the loop plays nice with the coolant (high flow rates)? Ideally I'd like to run aurora 24/7 for however long it lasts ~2 years? Thoughts?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Since I'm probably going to end up buying more coolant, I want to take your guys temperature about Aurora. I couldn't really find a definite answer on the wiki and it's been a while since I have gone through this thread. I know that aurora 2 is longer lasting. Has anyone been running it as a 24/7 system assuming the loop plays nice with the coolant (high flow rates)? Ideally I'd like to run aurora 24/7 for however long it lasts ~2 years? Thoughts?


I haven't heard of anyone making it 2 years, and I think only one claimed 1 year. I've been trying for a while to get it to last in several different set ups and haven't had the best of luck. I've only been able to make it about 2 months until it is nearly all gone. Most recently I set up 2 different loops (one for cpu, one for gpu's) to try and simplify the components and get better flowrates. I only rebuilt a few weeks ago and I can already notice my cpu loop is starting to fade







The more complex GPU loop seems to be doing fine though. Both d5's are set between 4 and 5.

Next I will run the pumps 24/7 even when the system is off, or I could just leave it on 24/7 I guess but I have not been in the past


Spoiler: first attempt









Spoiler: second attempt









Spoiler: current attempt


----------



## 15goudreau

Interesting. Thanks for the data point. I'm just going to go ahead and buy more pastel then. Not looking to be doing tons of maintenance at the moment with my rig.









+rep


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Does anyone know if Aurora has any issues with the nanoparticles getting caught inside a monoblock, specifically the Bitspower RIVBE? @Mayhem


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Since I'm probably going to end up buying more coolant, I want to take your guys temperature about Aurora. I couldn't really find a definite answer on the wiki and it's been a while since I have gone through this thread. I know that aurora 2 is longer lasting. Has anyone been running it as a 24/7 system assuming the loop plays nice with the coolant (high flow rates)? Ideally I'd like to run aurora 24/7 for however long it lasts ~2 years? Thoughts?


I've been running the aurora 2 red for about 4months? Maybe Longer? Since I built the S3.

It has become pretty dark although the particles are still in the system and moving quite well.

TCO


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Does anyone know if Aurora has any issues with the nanoparticles getting caught inside a monoblock, specifically the Bitspower RIVBE? @Mayhem


they slip right through my supremacy mx and aquacomputer kryographics without issues


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I've been running the aurora 2 red for about 4months? Maybe Longer? Since I built the S3.
> 
> It has become pretty dark although the particles are still in the system and moving quite well.
> 
> TCO


Thanks for the data point!









+rep


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Thanks for the data point!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep


No Problem.







Appreciate the Point. You keep asking and we will keep telling.

TCO


----------



## 15goudreau

I think I will try it when I finally build my server. That way it will be constantly running and it will be an extremely simple loop. Stick a D5 in it for overclock *cough kill cough* and see how long it lasts!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> You need to neutralize the acid after using part 1. I would recommend using the part 2 if you plan to use anything like pastel, better to do it right the first time then have to do it anyway and waste a bunch of expensive fluid. You can also do the baking soda flush to neutralize if you don't want to spend the extra money.
> 
> 
> 
> Deedaz, according to Mayhems video, distilled water is only needed to neutralize the acids. Perhaps, I misunderstood it.
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

Distilled will eventually neutralize it, but it will take a LOT of distilled and you really won't know if its ready without doing ph tests. IMO it's worth the extra $30 just to know it's done right, especially if it's not a brand new system.
I hooked up my old system to the faucet and ran it for half an hour before I ran the part 2 and I was shocked how much of the aurora was still left inside when I was finished with the part 2.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Distilled will eventually neutralize it, but it will take a LOT of distilled and you really won't know if its ready without doing ph tests. IMO it's worth the extra $30 just to know it's done right, especially if it's not a brand new system.
> I hooked up my old system to the faucet and ran it for half an hour before I ran the part 2 and I was shocked how much of the aurora was still left inside when I was finished with the part 2.


This is a brand new system (sorry for not mentioning before). I used part 1 only on the radiators. I ran tap water through the radiator to flush it and then used distilled to further flush it. Do I need to use Part 1 on any of the other water cooling parts, too? Do I need to use Part 2 in the radiators even though they have never been used?

Thanks


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Distilled will eventually neutralize it, but it will take a LOT of distilled and you really won't know if its ready without doing ph tests. IMO it's worth the extra $30 just to know it's done right, especially if it's not a brand new system.
> I hooked up my old system to the faucet and ran it for half an hour before I ran the part 2 and I was shocked how much of the aurora was still left inside when I was finished with the part 2.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a brand new system (sorry for not mentioning before). I used part 1 only on the radiators. I ran tap water through the radiator to flush it and then used distilled to further flush it. Do I need to use Part 1 on any of the other water cooling parts, too? Do I need to use Part 2 in the radiators even though they have never been used?
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

The part 1 is for radiators only, it will eat up your o-rings and damage tubing. Not sure what effect it has on plexi, but probably not good for that either. The part 2 is meant for a complete loop and just cleans everything as well as neutralizes the acid of part 1.
It sounds like you flushed them pretty well and should be ok without part 2, but if you end up with any color change issues you'll want to use it for sure.
The part 1 only needs to be used once in the lifetime of the radiator btw, so you won't ever have to do that again.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> The part 1 is for radiators only, it will eat up your o-rings and damage tubing. Not sure what effect it has on plexi, but probably not good for that either. The part 2 is meant for a complete loop and just cleans everything as well as neutralizes the acid of part 1.
> It sounds like you flushed them pretty well and should be ok without part 2, but if you end up with any color change issues you'll want to use it for sure.
> The part 1 only needs to be used once in the lifetime of the radiator btw, so you won't ever have to do that again.


Cool. Thanks


----------



## 15goudreau

Heard back from Mayhem's support 12 hours after I placed my order







. They said even though it was opened it should be fine! So to anyone who has my case of opening it but storing it, it should be fine up to 3 years. I'll use this bottle probably and keep the new one in storage probably.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

I've got a dilemma, need to clean my loop, I'm currently using Mayhems Pastel Yellow but I find that it has darkened, so I want to clean out my system. But should I

* New tubing + new pastel yellow fluid
* New tubing + white pastel fluid
* New tubing + black fluid

* Black tubing + clear fluid

This is my build



How is the black fluid, causing problems? I once read it might go brown.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> I've got a dilemma, need to clean my loop, I'm currently using Mayhems Pastel Yellow but I find that it has darkened, so I want to clean out my system. But should I
> 
> * New tubing + new pastel yellow fluid
> * New tubing + white pastel fluid
> * New tubing + black fluid
> 
> * Black tubing + clear fluid
> 
> This is my build
> 
> 
> 
> How is the black fluid, causing problems? I once read it might go brown.


First things first, if your current coolant changed color, you should flush the radiator(s) again.

If the tubes are stained/discolor then you may want to change them.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> First things first, if your current coolant changed color, you should flush the radiator(s) again.
> 
> If the tubes are stained/discolor then you may want to change them.


Yep I will clean the whole rig new tubing, cleaning blocks.

The yellow went from bright yellow to dark more orangy


----------



## 15goudreau

Definitely clean the system. You can look into Mayhem's Blitz or just go with the standard mild acid rinse followed up with baking soda. Hot water of course.


----------



## muzammil84

Just received my Mayhems Havoc 360. Beautiful peace of welding








really impressed with it, the thing is massive, well packed and you get Blitz part 2 and XT1 clear with it, everything for £45 shipped








for that price you can only get Magicool rads so I wonder how this beaty is gonna perform. One thing that sort of dissapointed is the amount of dirt coming out of the rad when cleaning before first use. You could drink your tea from XSPC rads comparing to this one. Extra time and patience is required when cleaning Havoc(or maybe it's just the one I got).
Will see how it performs and report back.
Gonna paint it white btw


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Just received my Mayhems Havoc 360. Beautiful peace of welding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really impressed with it, the thing is massive, well packed and you get Blitz part 2 and XT1 clear with it, everything for £45 shipped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for that price you can only get Magicool rads so I wonder how this beaty is gonna perform. One thing that sort of dissapointed is the amount of dirt coming out of the rad when cleaning before first use. You could drink your tea from XSPC rads comparing to this one. Extra time and patience is required when cleaning Havoc(or maybe it's just the one I got).
> Will see how it performs and report back.
> Gonna paint it white btw


Do they still not sale these in the states? Just got a new 480mm rad but never saw any Havoc rads, would of loved to get one. Not too disappointed as my water temps dropped about 9-10c all around. Money well spent.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Do they still not sale these in the states? Just got a new 480mm rad but never saw any Havoc rads, would of loved to get one. Not too disappointed as my water temps dropped about 9-10c all around. Money well spent.


I don't know really. I am lucky enough(at least because of this) to live in UK so can order everything from their website, like I said, for really funnny amount of £(comparing to pretty much any other brand).
On the other note, I am using clear flexible tube also by Mayhems and it has absolutely no discoloration or plasticizer(running it with Pastel Ice White UV) after about 2 months of use, it's noticeably softer than Primochill tubing and cost like 1/3 of it








So far, really impressed with Mayhems.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I don't know really. I am lucky enough(at least because of this) to live in UK so can order everything from their website, like I said, for really funnny amount of £(comparing to pretty much any other brand).
> On the other note, I am using clear flexible tube also by Mayhems and it has absolutely no discoloration or plasticizer(running it with Pastel Ice White UV) after about 2 months of use, it's noticeably softer than Primochill tubing and cost like 1/3 of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, really impressed with Mayhems.


I'm using some of the Mayhems tubing as well, good stuff and even better price!


----------



## Bridgekeeper

@muzammil84 I'll fire mick a message (to this thread) in the morning as the rad should not be dirty in anyway as they are cleaned before sale.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bridgekeeper*
> 
> @muzammil84 I'll fire mick a message (to this thread) in the morning as the rad should not be dirty in anyway as they are cleaned before sale.


I didn't take any pictures but definitely a lot of black particles and first two flushes were greenish(i guess from flux).
Not a big deal as every rad has to be cleaned before first use, just a bit suprise because Mayhems claim they flush and test their rads prior to selling. I can't imagine how their test bench blocks look like if a rad like mine was connected to it.
Maybe it's normal, I haven't got huge experience with rads, so far I've tried only XSPC and they were really clean. Either XSPC is so good and spotless, or I had a bad item from Mayhems. Someone might have skipped it when checking or cleaning, had a bad day etc. It happens. Everywhere, in every company in the world. Not a big deal. Hopefully my Havoc will be a great performer


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

I took a picture to see the difference


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I don't know really. I am lucky enough(at least because of this) to live in UK so can order everything from their website, like I said, for really funnny amount of £(comparing to pretty much any other brand).
> On the other note, I am using clear flexible tube also by Mayhems and it has absolutely no discoloration or plasticizer(running it with Pastel Ice White UV) after about 2 months of use, it's noticeably softer than Primochill tubing and cost like 1/3 of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, really impressed with Mayhems.


My only gripe with my 16/10m tubing is that its so soft I worry about the tubing coming off the compression fittings i have as I can pull the tubing off by hand and I run my tubing tight. With that said however this has never happened even while transporting systems in the boot of cars full of coolant. The tubing has stayed very clear with no issues, it's cheaper and easier to use compared to Advanced LRT I'm switching to acrylic next and then I want glass from Mayhems last of all down the line. I will use their soft tubing again in a heartbeat great stuff!

Here is some in my better half's build with Mayhems blue dye mixed with deionized water.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> My only gripe with my 16/10m tubing is that its so soft I worry about the tubing coming off the compression fittings i have as I can pull the tubing off by hand and I run my tubing tight.


it is soft but I found that as a pro rather than con. I am using Barrow compression fittings 16/10, I can't even tight it all the way down with compression nut, it's so tight. there is no way in the world tube would slip out of the fitting.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> it is soft but I found that as a pro rather than con. I am using Barrow compression fittings 16/10, I can't even tight it all the way down with compression nut, it's so tight. there is no way in the world tube would slip out of the fitting.


Like I mentioned it's with the fittings I used and that is my only gripe, I definitely prefer the mayhems tubing over everything else I've used so far.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Just received my Mayhems Havoc 360. Beautiful peace of welding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really impressed with it, the thing is massive, well packed and you get Blitz part 2 and XT1 clear with it, everything for £45 shipped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for that price you can only get Magicool rads so I wonder how this beaty is gonna perform. One thing that sort of dissapointed is the amount of dirt coming out of the rad when cleaning before first use. You could drink your tea from XSPC rads comparing to this one. Extra time and patience is required when cleaning Havoc(or maybe it's just the one I got).
> Will see how it performs and report back.
> Gonna paint it white btw


Good morning muzammil84. All the rads should have (were cleaned by my self) before being capped. The black may be paint or patina caused by the copper sitting over time in the warehouse. This is why we give you a free mini blitz kit with the system to clean it out to make sure you get the best possible experience from its usage.

How ever if i did miss one i do apologise.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Just received my Mayhems Havoc 360. Beautiful peace of welding
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really impressed with it, the thing is massive, well packed and you get Blitz part 2 and XT1 clear with it, everything for £45 shipped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for that price you can only get Magicool rads so I wonder how this beaty is gonna perform. One thing that sort of dissapointed is the amount of dirt coming out of the rad when cleaning before first use. You could drink your tea from XSPC rads comparing to this one. Extra time and patience is required when cleaning Havoc(or maybe it's just the one I got).
> Will see how it performs and report back.
> Gonna paint it white btw


I honestly would never drink tea from an XSPC rad because all of them I've used have been full of bits and dirt lol, I need some rads soon for my AMD build so I think I'm gunna buy some of the 360 rads when I order my dyes and pastel coolant.


----------



## Mayhem

*Colour change issues within a water cooling system.*
*
Advisory*

We at Mayhems has been doing some extra investigations due to our new support system. We have found issues with flux used by some radiator manufacturers that has not been fully removed pre sale of the rads. This flux can stay with in a system for a very long period of time and can be directly related to issues reference colour change of lighter colours such as Yellow, Orange and Red.

Mayhems suggest the following.

At bare minimum ALL Rads should be flushed with flowing hot tap water (40c to 60c) to help remove and loosen off the water soluble flux from the manufacturing process. For a minimum of 30 minutes.

You can Improve and speed up this process by using Part 2 of the Mayhems Blitz Kit with hot water to aid and speed up this cleaning. Flush with hot water afterwards is still required.

To avoid any favouritism this should be applied to ALL Radiator manufacturers or OEM Radiators.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *Colour change issues within a water cooling system.*
> *
> Advisory*
> 
> We at Mayhems has been doing some extra investigations due to our new support system. We have found issues with flux used by some radiator manufacturers that has not been fully removed pre sale of the rads. This flux can stay with in a system for a very long period of time and can be directly related to issues reference colour change of lighter colours such as Yellow, Orange and Red.
> 
> Mayhems suggest the following.
> 
> At bare minimum ALL Rads should be flushed with flowing hot tap water (40c to 60c) to help remove and loosen off the water soluble flux from the manufacturing process. For a minimum of 30 minutes.
> 
> You can Improve and speed up this process by using Part 2 of the Mayhems Blitz Kit with hot water to aid and speed up this cleaning. Flush with hot water afterwards is still required.
> 
> To avoid any favouritism this should be applied to ALL Radiator manufacturers or OEM Radiators.


Have you tested the use of vinegar etc on the flux? does this have any effect at all? With that said I'm going to get some blitz cleaning kit for my rads as I want them clean as a whistle plus vinegar and hot water lands me in trouble with the 2 women I live with, it smells bad apparently lol.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Good morning muzammil84. All the rads should have (were cleaned by my self) before being capped. The black may be paint or patina caused by the copper sitting over time in the warehouse. This is why we give you a free mini blitz kit with the system to clean it out to make sure you get the best possible experience from its usage.
> 
> How ever if i did miss one i do apologise.


It is not a problem at all, as I said, I clean all my rads anyway.
Including Blitz and XT1 is a very nice touch, but I thought blitz part 2 is more for cleaning the whole loop(that's what I'm gonna do after installing the rad) than for prepping a radiator. I always use dilutted vinegar, boiling water, flush it many times and run deionised water a couple of times. It works and removes all the dirt, build ups etc.
I was just a bit surprised when I saw quite a lot of black particles and green stuff coming out when flushing because all of your rest products I use are absolutely amazing quality


----------



## MR-e

Hey guys, would you blitz 3x new HWLabs rads? Or just the standard hotwater+vinegar flush? I'm looking to run clear fluid only and don't want the water to yellow over time. All parts brand new. Will be an acrylic or glass tube build so no plasticizer leech.


----------



## kizwan

I would not. I clean all my HWLABS rads using this method.

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/02/26/flushing-your-block-rads-clean/


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Hey guys, would you blitz 3x new HWLabs rads? Or just the standard hotwater+vinegar flush? I'm looking to run clear fluid only and don't want the water to yellow over time. All parts brand new. Will be an acrylic or glass tube build so no plasticizer leech.


I have 4x 480 Hardware Labs Ultra Stealth radiators and I did the old and hard way I have cleaned each of them very vigorously with hot water refilling and shaking them several times. HL are among the cleanest radiators but when I run blitz part 1 you wouldn't believe how much more stuff came out.

If I was to do it again I would skip the manual shaking with water and just get Blitz right from the get go, then run a blitz part 2 afterwards, regardless what radiators you have, than you will know you won't have to clean them like than again and you will contempt to know they are really clean


----------



## muzammil84

I am thinking of changing a colour of my coolant, right now using pastel uv ice white, can I mix it with x1 uv green concentrate?? It doesn't have to be necessarily pastel but because i've got 2 bottles of uv white left I thought i'd use it.
I think there is a uv green dye but I am affraid it will stain my loop?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I am thinking of changing a colour of my coolant, right now using pastel uv ice white, can I mix it with x1 uv green concentrate?? It doesn't have to be necessarily pastel but because i've got 2 bottles of uv white left I thought i'd use it.
> I think there is a uv green dye but I am affraid it will stain my loop?


You can use the non stain green but tbh dye is dye, it will stain eventually if you don't clean out your loop every 8-12 months. I honestly don't mind as you can usually replace acrylic tubes with replacement parts fairly cheap.


----------



## muzammil84

Havoc 360 in matt white


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*


Just a shame the fins are not white as well, as that would have looked more clean.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Just a shame the fins are not white as well, as that would have looked more clean.


well, I covered them for painting as I thought it'd lower performance?? going for push/pull with white fans anyway so black fins won't be visible.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> well, I covered them for painting as I thought it'd lower performance?? going for push/pull with white fans anyway so black fins won't be visible.


Yeah, I guess you need to get them factory white or get a version without paint on the fins.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Just a shame the fins are not white as well, as that would have looked more clean.


Quote:


> well, I covered them for painting as I thought it'd lower performance?? going for push/pull with white fans anyway so black fins won't be visible.


The two tone color look so nice , honestly, they would look plain if you would paint them white as well


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> The two tone color look so nice , honestly, they would look plain if you would paint them white as well


That depends on the color scheme you are going for.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Just a shame the fins are not white as well, as that would have looked more clean.


I disagree. I like the white on black fins. Done a couple myself.



TCO


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I disagree. I like the white on black fins. Done a couple myself.


For a white and black build, sure. Not so much if you want white and blue or something like that.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> For a white and black build, sure. Not so much if you want white and blue or something like that.


Black is Devoid of Color. It matches everything.

TCO


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Black is Devoid of Color. It matches everything.
> 
> TCO


I guess it adds a little contrast here and there, but I still think pure color builds looks better.

Just a shame that getting rid of black is so hard:


----------



## 414347

But again, it all depends on someones preference, either way would look good, enjoy your build my friend


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> But again, it all depends on someones preference, either way would look good, enjoy your build my friend


Not my build, just the best example of a build that dont uses Black, I could find.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1469789/build-log-snefs-bloody-angel


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Not my build, just the best example of a build that dont uses Black, I could find.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1469789/build-log-snefs-bloody-angel


Right, but we are talking about the Fins of a radiator. Do you think Snef painted the fins when the fans are going to Hide it?



TCO


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Right, but we are talking about the Fins of a radiator. Do you think Snef painted the fins when the fans are going to Hide it?
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


The fans wont hide it, as you can see right though them.
At least I can on mine.

Which is why I think its worth going all the way, if you first start painting things in a different color.


----------



## muzammil84

radiator fins are meant to give heat away. If you paint them, your radiator takes a performance hit.
There's few manufacturers who make white rads, none of them has white fins.
Fins are gonna be covered by fans, there's much more black to be seen in every pc than these rad fins( motherboards-even with full "armor" you can still see a lot of black pcb, grommets, screws etc).


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> radiator fins are meant to give heat away. If you paint them, your radiator takes a performance hit.
> There's few manufacturers who make white rads, none of them has white fins.
> Fins are gonna be covered by fans, there's much more black to be seen in every pc than these rad fins( motherboards-even with full "armor" you can still see a lot of black pcb, grommets, screws etc).


Its possible, if you spend enough effort.
Like the fins on the radiator, they are not original black (they are copper or aluminium after all). They are painted by the factory before shipping.
Hardware labs make factory painted white once: http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-420gts-ultra-stealth-u-flow-low-profile-radiator-white.html#Details
The motherboard can also be cleaned up, with a cover plate: http://community.coolermaster.com/index.php/topic/12381-cosmos-ii-mark-ii-by-seinron/
And everything else can ether be bough white or made white, if you want to.

So it all down to how much effort and money you want to spend on getting it the way you want it.


----------



## Alpina 7

Pretty interesting thing happened to me. im in the process of moving and my PC has been turned off for 2 days for the first time since i finished my custom loop. So i go to turn my PC on and notice that in my reservoir the RED part of my pastel red has settled and when i turn it on it starts to swirl, mix and then goes back to solid.... pretty weird. is this normal?

i have Mayhem Pastel Red.


----------



## 1911Savage

I thought it was
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Pretty interesting thing happened to me. im in the process of moving and my PC has been turned off for 2 days for the first time since i finished my custom loop. So i go to turn my PC on and notice that in my reservoir the RED part of my pastel red has settled and when i turn it on it starts to swirl, mix and then goes back to solid.... pretty weird. is this normal?
> 
> i have Mayhem Pastel Red.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've seen that happen with my lime yellow pastel. I think it's just the nano particles settling and it is no big deal.


----------



## SimeonBG

Hey guys.
I tested Mayhems *non stain* dyes- red and blue. Tygon tubing 10/16 mm.
Well, ironically they stain like the non "non stain" versions. My tubing is now purple and it's impossible to clean. Vinegar, coca cola, aclohol. Nope. They stain !
No other additives. Only destilled water and dye on a test bench. Left them running for around a week and when i was switching the colours, i wanted to clean the tubing, but it was a bit of a failiure. Also, the red dye is very weak. I had to empty almost the full tube in order to get it red not pink. System consists of a GPU and CPU block, 360x60 radiator, pump and a top mounted 150mm reservoir.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimeonBG*
> 
> Hey guys.
> I tested Mayhems *non stain* dyes- red and blue. Tygon tubing 10/16 mm.
> Well, ironically they stain like the non "non stain" versions. My tubing is now purple and it's impossible to clean. Vinegar, coca cola, aclohol. Nope. They stain !


"Mayhems non staining dyes reduce or eliminate staining on most hard surfaces, skin, fabrics and equipment that is non-porous."
So blocks are safe, tubing is not.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimeonBG*
> 
> Hey guys.
> I tested Mayhems *non stain* dyes- red and blue. Tygon tubing 10/16 mm.
> Well, ironically they stain like the non "non stain" versions. My tubing is now purple and it's impossible to clean. Vinegar, coca cola, aclohol. Nope. They stain !
> No other additives. Only destilled water and dye on a test bench. Left them running for around a week and when i was switching the colours, i wanted to clean the tubing, but it was a bit of a failiure. Also, the red dye is very weak. I had to empty almost the full tube in order to get it red not pink. System consists of a GPU and CPU block, 360x60 radiator, pump and a top mounted 150mm reservoir.


All soft tubing will stain over time.


----------



## 15goudreau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> All soft tubing will stain over time.


I just finished tearing down my loop with advanced LRT running blue pastel for ~2 years. Tubing wasn't stained, but did yellow. So I think this is either UV or temperature degradation of the tubing. However, areas of my water block that had stagnant coolant did show some light staining over the 2 years. I'm going to upload some photos of the tear apart for people to see. Interesting stuff.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimeonBG*
> 
> Hey guys.
> I tested Mayhems *non stain* dyes- red and blue. Tygon tubing 10/16 mm.
> Well, ironically they stain like the non "non stain" versions. My tubing is now purple and it's impossible to clean. Vinegar, coca cola, aclohol. Nope. They stain !
> No other additives. Only destilled water and dye on a test bench. Left them running for around a week and when i was switching the colours, i wanted to clean the tubing, but it was a bit of a failiure. Also, the red dye is very weak. I had to empty almost the full tube in order to get it red not pink. System consists of a GPU and CPU block, 360x60 radiator, pump and a top mounted 150mm reservoir.


Clear tube changed to purple & red coolant turned to pink. That pretty much evidence you'll need to disconnect the radiators & flush/clean them properly because it sound like pH issue here.

Like everyone else mentioned, the non-stain dyes can stain soft/flexi tube.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> All soft tubing will stain over time.
> 
> 
> 
> I just finished tearing down my loop with advanced LRT running blue pastel for ~2 years. Tubing wasn't stained, but did yellow. So I think this is either UV or temperature degradation of the tubing. However, areas of my water block that had stagnant coolant did show some light staining over the 2 years. I'm going to upload some photos of the tear apart for people to see. Interesting stuff.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I use blue berry pastel with Adv LRT over a year & got same thing. If I'm not mistaken some color e.g. red & pink have higher chance to stain soft tube that other colors. I could be wrong though but this was mentioned before if I remember correctly.


----------



## Notrace13

HI All,

About to embark on my first foray into the world of water cooling and I would like to find out if anyone has any suggestions on how best to achieve a silver or as close to effect with coolant?

I know from watching a Mayhem's video on YouTube, that the colour grey can be achieved by mixing green and red together roughly 11/1 ratio. If anyone has done a silver effect coolant I would appreciate if you could post your mixing recipe and any pictures to go with it.

Thanks in advance for any help provided.


----------



## ethanh100

I have the X1 Red concentrate and I want It to be a little darker. can I mix a little food coloring into it? Will this make any extra build uip in my block or mess up the concentrate at all? thanks


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ethanh100*
> 
> I have the X1 Red concentrate and I want It to be a little darker. can I mix a little food coloring into it? Will this make any extra build uip in my block or mess up the concentrate at all? thanks


Add a bit of blue or red Mayhems dye to it and it should be fine, I wouldn't mix food dye with it.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimeonBG*
> 
> Hey guys.
> I tested Mayhems *non stain* dyes- red and blue. Tygon tubing 10/16 mm.
> Well, ironically they stain like the non "non stain" versions. My tubing is now purple and it's impossible to clean. Vinegar, coca cola, aclohol. Nope. They stain !
> No other additives. Only destilled water and dye on a test bench. Left them running for around a week and when i was switching the colours, i wanted to clean the tubing, but it was a bit of a failiure. Also, the red dye is very weak. I had to empty almost the full tube in order to get it red not pink. System consists of a GPU and CPU block, 360x60 radiator, pump and a top mounted 150mm reservoir.


All flexible soft tubing including PETG (hard tube) is porous. Due to its porosity the tubing literally sucks up the fluid over time and doesn't stain but induces the colour effect on the tubing. Mayhems Non Stain dyes are just that they do not stain blocks or Non porous products. The Non Stains dyes were introduced so people whom split the fluids didn't end having a nightmare removing said stain from carpets / work tops.

As seen below from a direct quote on there site, they are completely upfront and honest about there products and there is no misleading information.
Quote:


> Mayhems non staining dyes reduce or eliminate staining on most hard surfaces, skin, fabrics and equipment that is non-porous. These new Mayhems non stain dyes have a wide pH stability scope and can be used in liquid cooled PC's and Coolants. They should keep their colour longer than any normal high quality dye.
> All Mayhems Non Stain dyes can be mixed with each other to create a much wider range of colours. Mayhems non stain dyes can be also be used with Pastel, Aurora. X1, XT1.
> 
> Mixing example:
> 
> Blue + Yellow = Green
> Yellow + Red = Orange
> Red + (every so tiny amount of) Blue = Deep Red / Blood Red
> Red + Blue = Purple
> 
> Warning
> 
> To keep the nonstaining ability it must be mixed with Ultra Pure H20, Pastel Ice White, X1 clear or XT-1 clear only. Mixing Nonstaining dyes with any premixed coloured coolants will result in a staining product.
> 
> Mayhems non stain dyes contain a biocide that is compatible with Mayhems current range of products (X1, XT1, Pastel, Aurora). They have not been tested on any other manufactured fluids.


I hope this helps you understand more about Non Stain Dyes from Mayhems.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Never mix food dyes with coolants they contain addtives that can mess up a coolant proerties.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ethanh100*
> 
> I have the X1 Red concentrate and I want It to be a little darker. can I mix a little food coloring into it? Will this make any extra build uip in my block or mess up the concentrate at all? thanks


Never mix food dyes with coolants they contain additives that can mess up a coolant properties. Some food dyes has sweeteners in them and extras that are not needed in a coolant. Coolants have preservative already embedded in them and aid in preserving the colour and making them last longer. Stick with Mayhems dyes they are not expensive and last a very long time. Also you may note you will void your warranty, Mayhems has there new support system (which is very analytical) can tell what extras have been induced into coolants and a system.


----------



## ITAngel

Question which Mayhems coolant should I get for my system the X1 or XT-1? Is there a different between concentrate and premix? Thanks!

Note: This will go on a standard loop nothing crazy like extreme cooling or sub-zero etc...


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Question which Mayhems coolant should I get for my system the X1 or XT-1? Is there a different between concentrate and premix? Thanks!
> 
> Note: This will go on a standard loop nothing crazy like extreme cooling or sub-zero etc...


x1 is a safer bet, especially if you are using petg or certain other tubing like primoflex lrt, since xt1 is glycol based. The biggest difference to me between the concentrate and pre mix, is weather or not you have to source clean distilled water or not. I like the premix so I don't have to rely on my local stores distilled water


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Question which Mayhems coolant should I get for my system the X1 or XT-1? Is there a different between concentrate and premix? Thanks!
> 
> Note: This will go on a standard loop nothing crazy like extreme cooling or sub-zero etc...


The X1 would be perfect. Get the concentrate and mix it with distilled. They have other colors or you can add dyes too if you want.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> x1 is a safer bet, especially if you are using petg or certain other tubing like primoflex lrt, since xt1 is glycol based. The biggest difference to me between the concentrate and pre mix, is weather or not you have to source clean distilled water or not. I like the premix so I don't have to rely on my local stores distilled water


Hey Thanks I was leaning toward the X1 and even though I have access to distilled water I am still debating if Premix would do me good so I don't have to worry about it mixing it myself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> The X1 would be perfect. Get the concentrate and mix it with distilled. They have other colors or you can add dyes too if you want.


That is cool Thanks, even though I have EK ZMT Tubes Matte Black I think I may just need to stick to Clear. I see some concentrated bottles on amazon that are Clear but with UV cheaper than the clear non-UV. Tempted to grab the UV version even though I am not sure if I plan to put a black light on my system.


----------



## bigboy678

I miss mick fairly regularly visiting this thread and giving us updates on their products


----------



## russ18uk

Isn't it funny how Jayz switched away from Mayhems Pastel, blaming them for colour changing? And now his loop has changed colour


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *russ18uk*
> 
> Isn't it funny how Jayz switched away from Mayhems Pastel, blaming them for colour changing? And now his loop has changed colour


IDK much about this, but my guess is the heat. He has three Titan X's overclocked to the max, and he said is water temps reach almost 60c (I think I remember him saying that).

How many people do you think has three titans maxed out in a loop with only 2 radiators. I can guarantee the heat is causing the change.


----------



## Alpina 7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *russ18uk*
> 
> Isn't it funny how Jayz switched away from Mayhems Pastel, blaming them for colour changing? And now his loop has changed colour


Actually he didn't switch because of that he switched because of the way the owner / rep of Mayhem's talked about him and treated him. it was pretty unprofessional.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> IDK much about this, but my guess is the heat. He has three Titan X's overclocked to the max, and he said is water temps reach almost 60c (I think I remember him saying that).
> 
> How many people do you think has three titans maxed out in a loop with only 2 radiators. I can guarantee the heat is causing the change.


The recommended is 120mm per unit and he has 280mm per unit, so if its the heat, people need to start re-evaluate the radiator space requirement.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *russ18uk*
> 
> Isn't it funny how Jayz switched away from Mayhems Pastel, blaming them for colour changing? And now his loop has changed colour


He used Mayhems dye with another brands liquid, so its possible that mix can still be effected by the impurity's in the copper or by flux.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> The recommended is 120mm per unit and he has 280mm per unit, so if its the heat, people need to start re-evaluate the radiator space requirement.
> He used Mayhems dye with another brands liquid, so its possible that mix can still be effected by the impurity's in the copper or by flux.


It doesn't matter how many rads he has. He's running his water temps to 60c.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> It doesn't matter how many rads he has. He's running his water temps to 60c.


More rads means more cooling, to a certain degree. Depending on fan speed and block limits (they can only move so much heat to the liquid).

Also, the water temp should not reach 60C under any circumstance, unless the cooling failed. I think it was GPU core temp.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> More rads means more cooling, to a certain degree. Depending on fan speed and block limits (they can only move so much heat to the liquid).
> 
> Also, the water temp should not reach 60C under any circumstance, unless the cooling failed. I think it was GPU core temp.


It was either 50 or 60c he said his water temps reached. I do know though that he said his hotter card reached 63c or something like that.

You don't need to keep talking about how rardiators and fans work. I understand that. I'm just going off what he said where he has high water temps.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> It was either 50 or 60c he said his water temps reached. I do know though that he said his hotter card reached 63c or something like that.
> 
> You don't need to keep talking about how rardiators and fans work. I understand that. I'm just going off what he said where he has high water temps.


Water temperature and card temperature is not the same. Its the same as running an air cooler, just because your CPU is 80C, so is not the air coming of it 80C.

It was 63C on the hottest card, at stock speed. Do to the fluids breaking down and loosing its ability to carry heat.

Also, the reason I added that info, is because not everyone knows it.


----------



## electro2u

Jays CPU loop turned. The gpu loop is fine.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Water temperature and card temperature is not the same. Its the same as running an air cooler, just because your CPU is 80C, so is not the air coming of it 80C.
> 
> It was 63C on the hottest card, at stock speed. Do to the fluids breaking down and loosing its ability to carry heat.
> 
> Also, the reason I added that info, is because not everyone knows it.


I understand the hottest car was 63c. BUT HE SAID HIS WATER TEMPS WERE AROUND THE SAME!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Jays CPU loop turned. The gpu loop is fine.


No, opposite way round mate, his gpu loop changed.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I understand the hottest car was 63c. BUT HE SAID HIS WATER TEMPS WERE AROUND THE SAME!


I have watched all his videos about it and I cant remember him saying anything like that.

Also, the if the hottest card is 63C and the coolest card 54C or so, so cant the water temp be that high.
The card temps are always water temp + a certain temp. In case of GPU blocks, so I'm guessing 10-15C over water temp.


----------



## russ18uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> No, opposite way round mate, his gpu loop changed.


He said he added the motherboard block with the CPU and now it's started changing.

The friction between Jay and Mayhem started due to the colour changing and how adamant he had done everything right.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *russ18uk*
> 
> He said he added the motherboard block with the CPU and now it's started changing.
> 
> The friction between Jay and Mayhem started due to the colour changing and how adamant he had done everything right.


Link me the vid please because there must of been a new one that I've missed.


----------



## electro2u

He talks about it about half way through last episode of tech talk. With Barnacules.

It is interesting to me. I pointed out the rads right after it went nuclear. I had similar issues as he did basically when i added hwlabs rads at right about the same time.

To me its blitz part 2 that caused my issue.



My purple coolant turned lighter and actually stained the acrylic of my bay res (came off easily with some polish) but Im still having issues with foam. Not like i was but i recently drained my loop and refilled with the same pastel id been using for 6 months thinking i had completely solved any problems with pH. When i started pouring it back in it foamed up like it had dishwashing soap in it. It settled back down after bleeding but that bothered and surprised me. It hasnt changed color though. At all.

So Jays issues probably arent due to blitz p2 (never heard him say he used it). Maybe it means the hwlabs rads have dead spots that are hard to flush.


----------



## SteezyTN

I've been using pastel ice white for almost a year now, maybe a little less (can't remember when I first put it in my loop). I originally did part 1 and then part 2. Never have I had any issue with mine changing colors. But then again, it's mainly the Reds, yellows and oranges with the changing color issue.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I've been using pastel ice white for almost a year now, maybe a little less (can't remember when I first put it in my loop). I originally did part 1 and then part 2. Never have I had any issue with mine changing colors. But then again, it's mainly the Reds, yellows and oranges with the changing color issue.


It's stable. But I'm shocked it got foamy at all when I took it out and refilled.


Thats blood red with some raspberry purple mixed in.


----------



## ITAngel

Is the X1 Concentrated Clear same as the X1 Concentrated UV? Is there a different between the two?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Is the X1 Concentrated Clear same as the X1 Concentrated UV? Is there a different between the two?


The UV will glow under a black light, clear otherwise.


----------



## Caos

hello, I want to know if the XT1 can be used in a swiftech H220-x, ?? mixed with distilled water? As it would be the proportion? thanks


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> The UV will glow under a black light, clear otherwise.


Okay cool thanks. Has anyone reported any issues with the X1 Red Concentrated UV? Even though I have black tubes would be cool to add a bit of color to the res but not sure. I read that the color still stain the res and so on. I may still stick to just clear X1 but just curious if anyone have had any issues with it. Thanks!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I forgot to toss in the redo of the Parvum. This is the Orange Premix. 2 L bottle it appeared. My Brother ordered it. I loved how light the orange was after mixing in with distilled.




TCO

Here is a shot of the Original fill with the 250ml concentrate.


Spoiler: OG Fill 17months ago


----------



## killeragosta

Guys sorry for disturbing and for my bad English (I'm Italian) but *I've a little urgency with the Biocide Extreme.*

Today i've finished my new cooling system and I've added the biocide... but i wrong because i pressed the bottle a little bit much more than i really want and...a couple of very very small drops are falls all at the same time (i don't know if this little drops is the equivalent of a "normal drop" or more).

I used PH test included in the package but i don't understand if the water is too acidic.

- This is the test after immediately removed it from the water:

http://imgbox.com/tpzDzbMN http://imgbox.com/kuPQhSu9

This is totaly dark yellow. (PH to low)

- And this is the test after a few minutes later:

http://imgbox.com/eonP6gOE http://imgbox.com/HiRnecdL

In this test i see a little green "line". (PH correct?)

What is the true?

Please guys, help me







I'm really worried that this corrode my components...

If is wrong, how can I fix it? Can i simply change with a new pure water? Thanks in advance.


----------



## 414347

Hi there,

I've been using Mayhems Biocide Extreme for a while ( about 2 years) and all I can tell you, it is wonderful product, your water will stay clear and free from living organism for months.

I have dual loop system that runs purely on distilled water with Biocide Extreme, It's very important that you *DO NOT* add more than its suggested, which is *1-2 drops per 1/L MAX* to distilled water , do not add more or its high possibility that you might cause damage to your blocks and pumps, this is very concentrated acidic stuff, it's actually better to add less than too much.

I've been adding *ONLY* *1* drop of Biocide Extreme per liter of distilled water than I change water every 3 months and my water in reservoir z-tube is crystal clear.

If you don't want to change water that often, after 3 months if your loop hold 1 liter or up to 1.5 liter of water you can add additional 1 drop of Biocide Extreme or 2 drops to loop if it holds 2 or 2.5 liters of water.

Even if you have over 2 liters of liquid in your loop, add only 2 drops and you be good again for additional 3 months, than you can either change water or add again the same amount I wouldn't go on the same water longer than 9 months and again, its better to add less than to much.

I replace water every 3 months because I have easy access to drainage, distilled water is cheap and it takes me only 15-20 minutes to change

As far is the strips goes I don't use them anymore I actually never did I found that they don't show accurate readings I tested my water with digital PH meter only the first 2 times and now I mixed Biocide with water with my eyes closed I know that 1 drops with 1 liter of distilled water, that's all it takes.

Now, when you tip the bottle to add some drops, you really shouldn't squeeze hard at all, drop is a drop, usually will come out at the same size and once bottle is tipped give a tiny squeeze, that's all.

If you feel you added more than what I mentioned, more than 2 drops per 1 liter I would drain your loopy and add only as suggested......period, only than you will be happy to know that you didn't go over the dosage.

I have tried so many different products DazMode protector ( Junk), Fezeir Base Corrosion, silver coil and nothing, absolutely nothing can beat this product, if you use it wisely, you will love it









I have actually open one of my Titan Black Hydro Copper blocks after a 15 months and It looks like brand new, not kidding, still shines like the day I got it.

Hopefully that helps.


----------



## Stickeelion

Got a Question, qill the Blood red Mayhems coolant dye just the tubing (soft plastic tubing) or will I have issues with it dying other components like my radiator blocks etc? I assume it shouldn't be as metal isn't porous. my tubing has gone slightly brown but I have no issue with dyed tubing as I'm planning to replace it anyway

Secondly, often is it advised to clean out and replace a system with X1 coolant?

edit: all blocks are nickel coated and acetal


----------



## zerophase

I just want to double check if Blitz Pro part 2 is safe to use with nickel plated blocks.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I just want to double check if Blitz Pro part 2 is safe to use with nickel plated blocks.


That's a big fat NO!

Edit* NEVER MIND! I was thinking you said part 1. Part 2 is okay for nickel. I used it for my TX blocks. Just don't use part 1 (the phosphoric acid one) for any nickel products.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's a big fat NO!
> 
> Edit* NEVER MIND! I was thinking you said part 1. Part 2 is okay for nickel. I used it for my TX blocks. Just don't use part 1 (the phosphoric acid one) for any nickel products.


Thanks, though so. That tech of tomorrow guy really needs to get his video taken down. He runs part 1 through the entire loop.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

My Aurora 2 Red, Looks like black cherry aurora.









Almost time to flush the S3.

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> My Aurora 2 Red, Looks like black cherry aurora.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost time to flush the S3.
> 
> TCO


I want to try aurora with blue so bad. If it last 4 months I'm ok with that. I do think I will switch to glass tubing though very soon. Doesn't seem very hard specially if you have your tubing runs made already with acrylic or Petg. I'm just bored and want to change it up but don't know what yet.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> My Aurora 2 Red, Looks like black cherry aurora.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Almost time to flush the S3.
> 
> TCO


you made it long enough to have it change colors? Congrats! One of my two loops is still going strong after 2 months, new record for me


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I want to try aurora with blue so bad. If it last 4 months I'm ok with that. I do think I will switch to glass tubing though very soon. Doesn't seem very hard specially if you have your tubing runs made already with acrylic or Petg. I'm just bored and want to change it up but don't know what yet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> you made it long enough to have it change colors? Congrats! One of my two loops is still going strong after 2 months, new record for me


I forgot when I built the S3. I can look back, but yea. Different color lol.

TCO


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Actually he didn't switch because of that he switched because of the way the owner / rep of Mayhem's talked about him and treated him. it was pretty unprofessional.


Yeah, well, Brits are notoriously bad with customer service. Mayhems is a shining example in comparison. Also, to be frank, Mick was right and Jayz is a moron. That he does a podcast with that coward Barnacules doesn't surprise me.


----------



## catbuster

Its just sad to see this thread lost any support when Mick stopped posting and some1 else took over being a rep


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Yeah, well, Brits are notoriously bad with customer service. Mayhems is a shining example in comparison. Also, to be frank, Mick was right and Jayz is a moron. That he does a podcast with that coward Barnacules doesn't surprise me.


Why is barn a coward? And Jay knows a few things, he doesn't know everything rightly so. Mick was out of order and so was Jay there is no innocent party in what took place.


----------



## electro2u

Yeah no ones perfect.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Why is barn a coward? And Jay knows a few things, he doesn't know everything rightly so. Mick was out of order and so was Jay there is no innocent party in what took place.


Jay is an idiot. Been saying that for a long time. Well before the mayhems fiasco with him. No idea why he is so popular. He tends to misinform and give bad advice in a lot of cases. What is worse is he will try to pretend and be a pro at things he has never really done before. And people that do not know any better follow his bad advice. And when he messes things up it's never his fault. He is just another YouTool.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Jay is an idiot. Been saying that for a long time. Well before the mayhems fiasco with him. No idea why he is so popular. He tends to misinform and give bad advice in a lot of cases. What is worse is he will try to pretend and be a pro at things he has never really done before. And people that do not know any better follow his bad advice. And when he messes things up it's never his fault. He is just another YouTool.


Not sure, I've noticed a few things that I personally wouldn't do in any of my rigs but overall he is a decent source of watercooling stuff. Agreed he's done some outright stupid stuff but I can say he's not gone wrong as much as other tubers. Regardless we need to get B NEG on youtube more for tutorials and stuff. Now there is a man full of accurate info.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Not sure, I've noticed a few things that I personally wouldn't do in any of my rigs but overall he is a decent source of watercooling stuff. Agreed he's done some outright stupid stuff but I can say he's not gone wrong as much as other tubers. Regardless we need to get B NEG on youtube more for tutorials and stuff. Now there is a man full of accurate info.


Singularity PCs is probably one of the better sources for water cooling stuff. With all the high end build logs posted.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Singularity PCs is probably one of the better sources for water cooling stuff. With all the high end build logs posted.


True his content is good but I've only seen his builds nothing in terms of reviews or tutorials?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> True his content is good but I've only seen his builds nothing in terms of reviews or tutorials?


Some of the builds have kinda like mini reviews of some parts baked in. Same with tutorials.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Regardless we need to get B NEG on youtube more for tutorials and stuff. Now there is a man full of accurate info.


As i understand it, he's got a real job


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> As i understand it, he's got a real job


I know which is great don't get me wrong, but he does know a hell of a lot and could school the noobs on youtube very well.


----------



## BrjSan

No intend on chewing on the youtube thing, but When i first wanted to start my loop, i started searching on youtube on "how to" and "details" seeing things is better ... right, and Jayz use the word *Ultimate* when he describes some of his topics, and the content in that *Ultimate* video, ends up nothing as Ultimate..... lacking a lot of details. . .. in other words lacking the *every piece of information you expect from an Ultimate video*. i wish he just remove the Ultimate thing from the description







cause they end up generic.

Honestly what was really good and gave me specific information on "how to" or "what to", are forums and small youtubers who just posted couple of videos about their builds, explaining their own real experience.

By the way i like Barn channel a lot.

Peace


----------



## Prophet4NO1

There was an old video that I can not find any more where some kid was showing how to build a loop with what at the time was pretty nice high end gear. But it was obvious from the start he had only forum experience. One of the worst parts was filling the loop. He hard all the power hooked up so, the whole system is on and the D5 pump was sucking air. He then starts to fill and lets the fluid drop to the point that again the pump is sucking air. It was so bad. Wish I could find it again.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> There was an old video that I can not find any more where some kid was showing how to build a loop with what at the time was pretty nice high end gear. But it was obvious from the start he had only forum experience. One of the worst parts was filling the loop. He hard all the power hooked up so, the whole system is on and the D5 pump was sucking air. He then starts to fill and lets the fluid drop to the point that again the pump is sucking air. It was so bad. Wish I could find it again.


I think this is the one you are referring to....

I can only find the full length version so FF to around the 9 minute mark where he starts the filling process...









Makes me cringe every time I watch it...


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> I think this is the one you are referring to....
> 
> I can only find the full length version so FF to around the 9 minute mark where he starts the filling process...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes me cringe every time I watch it...


That's it! lol


----------



## BrjSan

Poor guy.

He heard some where that the pump should be below the res and he did it literary physicaly without knowing the purpose.

Good example of misinformed , i think.

It realy makes you cringe.

Peace


----------



## electro2u

Is that Jay or Barn?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I forgot to toss in the redo of the Parvum. This is the Orange Premix. 2 L bottle it appeared. My Brother ordered it. I loved how light the orange was after mixing in with distilled.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> Here is a shot of the Original fill with the 250ml concentrate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: OG Fill 17months ago


Need to fill that res to the top, if it's clear like that I couldn't leave a big air gap.


----------



## 414347

My goodness, the guy is hilarious.
Then he will be wondering why his pump runs like jet loud or dies prematurely, to many silly things to point it out here.
Honestly, it's fun watching someone like that trying to educate others


----------



## emsj86

I don't get the jay hate. I'm not a fan boy. But you should never take one guys opinion in the first place. Always ask around to different forums and videos. I think he is somewhat entertaining and yet he does give Misinformed Info sometimes; don't we all. Very few here if any are right all the time. That being said I like singularity computers and I use the forums for my questions


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I don't get the jay hate. I'm not a fan boy. But you should never take one guys opinion in the first place. Always ask around to different forums and videos. I think he is somewhat entertaining and yet he does give Misinformed Info sometimes; don't we all. Very few here if any are right all the time. That being said I like singularity computers and I use the forums for my questions


He is comediant I actually like watching his videos a lot, good entertainment.

I have to admit, before I build my first watercooled PC I was watching Singularity Computers for probably a year before I jump the gun and I have to say SC videos are very educational, he is also nice guy, spoke with him on few different occasions.

That doesn't mean Jay is clueless, no not at all, his videos are aimed more to general reviews and some tips that you ultimately have to decide whether they are helpful or not, but they are not all useless.

I agree I feel that "hate", which I can sense here as well is way to harsh to use in describing someones way of being or way of doing things, lest just give him a break, the guy needs to make living somehow


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> He is comediant I actually like watching his videos a lot, good entertainment.
> 
> I have to admit, before I build my first watercooled PC I was watching Singularity Computers for probably a year before I jump the gun and I have to say SC videos are very educational, he is also nice guy, spoke with him on few different occasions.
> 
> That doesn't mean Jay is clueless, no not at all, his videos are aimed more to general reviews and some tips that you ultimately have to decide whether they are helpful or not, but they are not all useless.
> 
> I agree I feel that "hate", which I can sense here as well is way to harsh to use in describing someones way of being or way of doing things, lest just give him a break, the guy needs to make living somehow


I agree with you. I enjoy Jays videos and is he perfect? no, I doubt anyone is and for that matter people should take every bit of information with a grain of salt. He is funny, naturally do well behind cameras were I seen people who try it and failed really bad. I guess what I am trying to say is people should not burn him for issues that happen between him and Mayhems. It is truly that some miss communication happen which can happen to anyone in a situation with frustration. ***** I do it too. People should just let that go as he is working with Mayhems and they have come into an agreement. The guy does have to make a living and he put his time to teach us and entertain us even if people don't agree with some of the methods or information provided by him. He is still a funny guy to watch and learn from.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> I think this is the one you are referring to....
> 
> I can only find the full length version so FF to around the 9 minute mark where he starts the filling process...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes me cringe every time I watch it...


The sound of that pump makes me want to cry.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> The sound of that pump makes me want to cry.


I know, even that it's fun to watch.

You right, you need to make commonsense and use your own logic and if you just decide to take someone's word for it by either watching video or taking someone advice without further investigation or taking time to further learn, then you really can't point fingers on others.

Look at this video, this is good example how someone is so clueless, but it doesn't mean he is necessarily bad or wrong to be called whatever, as far is he things, he is doing us a favor, you take that video as you please I for once like to have a good laugh from time to time.


----------



## ragevirus

So as embarrassing as it is I have followed this and many other threads for years but have rarely if ever posted. I just finished reading the last 500 pages or so looking for something in particular. I did not find it. Although someone at about page 1300 was attempting something I would like to try but never came back to tell of his experience. This leads to my question

Anyone mixed X1 oil black with aurora 2 booster? or Pastel white with black dye and Aurora 2 booster? I am curious what it looks like. I could not find an answer or picture anywhere on the googles. I have ordered all the fluids to create some experiments but performance PC shipping is so expensive it will not be to me until late next week. It would save me $$$ if anyone has done any Aurora 2 and x1 (any color) mixes and/or pastel white and black dye and Aurora 2 and could tell me of there experiences. As i could just add a bottle or two of the one that works better and fill my loop.

If anyone has a picture or can report there experiences that would be cool. Here is the Rig I want to put it in if anyone is interested. http://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=35395


----------



## emsj86

For X1 j believe it works. But pastel it does not. I used pastel blue with booster and you could barely see it in the reservoir. I literally had to state to look for it. I think gold would work with black x1


----------



## ragevirus

Awesome thanks. So Aurora 2 booster in pastel does not work. check. Ill try the X1 oil black with the booster. I bought silver thinking it would contrast more. But i can always get a bottle of gold if it doesnt show up.

I am starting to think that the reason i cant find any pictures of black and Aurora booster is that maybe it doesnt work together.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ragevirus*
> 
> So as embarrassing as it is I have followed this and many other threads for years but have rarely if ever posted. I just finished reading the last 500 pages or so looking for something in particular. I did not find it. Although someone at about page 1300 was attempting something I would like to try but never came back to tell of his experience. This leads to my question
> 
> Anyone mixed X1 oil black with aurora 2 booster? or Pastel white with black dye and Aurora 2 booster? I am curious what it looks like. I could not find an answer or picture anywhere on the googles. I have ordered all the fluids to create some experiments but performance PC shipping is so expensive it will not be to me until late next week. It would save me $$$ if anyone has done any Aurora 2 and x1 (any color) mixes and/or pastel white and black dye and Aurora 2 and could tell me of there experiences. As i could just add a bottle or two of the one that works better and fill my loop.
> 
> If anyone has a picture or can report there experiences that would be cool. Here is the Rig I want to put it in if anyone is interested. http://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=35395


nice looking rig man! I've seen one example of x1 oil black with gold booster and it looks GREAT (all credit to Snef on LTT) I attached a picture (it is NOT mine but I included a link to the source, its the second post on the page)
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/296-the-water-cooling-gallery/?page=27


I'm currently using x1 UV green with silver booster and x1 UV blue with gold booster in seperate loops, the green loop (gpu's) has been doing great, the blue (cpu) has had some issues but I'm am pretty confident that is just an Aurora issue, not due to the x1. Also as you can tell, the UV green is significantly richer in color. This one is mine, still in progress


----------



## ragevirus

Thanks for the link. Thats exactly what I was looking for. I wonder how long it lasted him in a single loop with both the cpu and 2 gpus'. Doesnt matter though I am going to try it anyway even if it only lasts a couple days.

One more thing when it all falls out of suspension do I need to totally clean the loop or can i just drain and refill with something else? Or do I even need to drain it? id be fine if it just turned black.


----------



## ragevirus

Also, are you using the jetplate in the cpu block or have your removed it?


----------



## ivoryg37

Is there any difference between Mayhem Pastel White and the extreme white? Which one is better to get at this point?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ragevirus*
> 
> Thanks for the link. Thats exactly what I was looking for. I wonder how long it lasted him in a single loop with both the cpu and 2 gpus'. Doesnt matter though I am going to try it anyway even if it only lasts a couple days.
> 
> One more thing when it all falls out of suspension do I need to totally clean the loop or can i just drain and refill with something else? Or do I even need to drain it? id be fine if it just turned black.
> Also, are you using the jetplate in the cpu block or have your removed it?


well no matter what there are a few things that will definitely kill it quickly. low flowrates, 90° fittings, drain valves, any dead zones that particles can settle in really. something in my cpu loop that I'm not sure of has been giving me the business







I think it might be because I removed the smaller plastic insert instead of the jetplate, I'll probably try putting the plastic insert back in and removing the jetplate and see if that is my issue. I had the jetplate out before but that was with the setup below.

As far as what to do when it falls out, I've let it go for a month after completely disappearing before draining and cleaning without any noticeable increase in temperature. I don't really see why you couldn't go longer, I just can't ever wait that long.

I'm also wondering if running the pumps 24/7 would help things out a bit, I've always turned mine off which might be dumb

I had it running like this a while ago and it lasted about 3 weeks I think.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Aurora has been lasting me a bit over a month and all I do is drain the res and refill it. I am waiting to see what happens if I keep doing this. Next one will be just a full drain and refill. I want to see if it kinda fills in the dead spots like a river does and reaches a balancing point or starts to plug up. It's kinda my own little investigation. I don't leave the machine on all the time. When it is on more it lasts longer I have noticed. Right now it's just one D5 running at full speed. Only thing that will suck a lot if they plug up is the rads. Blocks I am not worried about. Easy enough to tear them down and clean them. But, as far as I can tell, no one has explored this aspect of the fluid, so I figured I would try it out. Experimentation is fun after all. Even if it's a really slow one. lol


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Aurora has been lasting me a bit over a month and all I do is drain the res and refill it. I am waiting to see what happens if I keep doing this. Next one will be just a full drain and refill. I want to see if it kinda fills in the dead spots like a river does and reaches a balancing point or starts to plug up. It's kinda my own little investigation. I don't leave the machine on all the time. When it is on more it lasts longer I have noticed. Right now it's just one D5 running at full speed. Only thing that will suck a lot if they plug up is the rads. Blocks I am not worried about. Easy enough to tear them down and clean them. But, as far as I can tell, no one has explored this aspect of the fluid, so I figured I would try it out. Experimentation is fun after all. Even if it's a really slow one. lol


ah! I did mean to say something about that. I haven't tried it with my cpu loop this time but it worked the one time I tried it. It didn't seem to last as long as it did fresh though for some reason


----------



## ragevirus

All good info. I'll try as well and report my findings and results. It's sucks something so beautiful doesn't last longer but that is life. I'll update my pics on modsrigs and post a link so anyone that wants to can see black X1 and silver booster.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Why is barn a coward?


In one of their videos Barnacules ran his mouth about how Zen probably won't be more than 5% faster than the Construction series (I assume Piledriver, as there hasn't been a pure CPU since that architecture). Since that's physically impossible on a clock for clock basis with the triple node jump, I called him out on that.The terms were that I would provide the Zen system and they the Piledriver system (they should have the hardware to slap one together), that both systems run stock clocks, that they got to choose the benchmarks, that for verification purposes the results from both parties would post their validated results on Jay's personal forums, and that the ante be a single Steam key worth no more than $70.

I didn't actually expect him to accept, but I did expect that he would at least post a mea culpa. Not even that, though. So, yeah, he's a coward.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> In one of their videos Barnacules ran his mouth about how Zen probably won't be more than 5% faster than the Construction series (I assume Piledriver, as there hasn't been a pure CPU since that architecture). Since that's physically impossible on a clock for clock basis with the triple node jump, I called him out on that.The terms were that I would provide the Zen system and they the Piledriver system (they should have the hardware to slap one together), that both systems run stock clocks, that they got to choose the benchmarks, that for verification purposes the results from both parties would post their validated results on Jay's personal forums, and that the ante be a single Steam key worth no more than $70.
> 
> I didn't actually expect him to accept, but I did expect that he would at least post a mea culpa. Not even that, though. So, yeah, he's a coward.


Don't see how he's a coward from that, I'm betting it will be hard for any youtuber to get any form of parts from people at this rate with their pro Nvidia and Intel opinions. The only difference I see between my amd rig and my intel rig is like 5fps so I just don't see why there is a massive out cry for intel built systems.

I don't have brand loyalty I just buy what is a good price for the performance with the money I have available. I'm very unimpressed with my 4670k after everyone told me it would perform a lot better then my 8350 but it simply doesn't.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Don't see how he's a coward from that, I'm betting it will be hard for any youtuber to get any form of parts from people at this rate with their pro Nvidia and Intel opinions. The only difference I see between my amd rig and my intel rig is like 5fps so I just don't see why there is a massive out cry for intel built systems.
> 
> I don't have brand loyalty I just buy what is a good price for the performance with the money I have available. I'm very unimpressed with my 4670k after everyone told me it would perform a lot better then my 8350 but it simply doesn't.


Where do Intel and nVidia enter into this?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Where do Intel and nVidia enter into this?


It's all over the youtubes and forums that they have. Pro intel this, Pro nvidia that because lined pockets this and that.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> It's all over the youtubes and forums that they have. Pro intel this, Pro nvidia that because lined pockets this and that.


Okay, but I'm talking about a pure AMD vs AMD CPU comparison. They almost certainly do have the hardware to put a Piledriver system together.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

I tried a little experiment where I dropped a watch battery in a liter of pastel red. It was black in 4 days. So a lot of leaking current on a gpu die that is not fully insulated from the waterblock by non conductive thermal paste has a drastic effect on the dye. It's not the dye's fault, it's just the nature of stray voltage. Extreme overclocks leak a whole lot more current than just a regular overclock depending on the chip. I think Mayhems should have a disclaimer about very high overclocks or even possibly do some experiments on how to prevent the high transfer of stray current when cards or cpus leak current. It's a very real think and in the end I think this will be the determining factor of how long your dye lasts. I really think it has nothing to do with heat. I cover the complete heat spreader with non conductive thermal paste, not just the pea method. This will by no means stop metal to metal contact in some areas but will drastically cut down on the amount of metal to metal and may even completely eliminate it. I'm going to do some more tests with an ohm meter, the only problem is I don't have much test material. It someone has a system that is having a problem than I suggest an ohm meter test every day do monitor the current. This should be done while running extreme stress tests on the cpu and then the gpus. I believe that all of the controversy that has been occurring is the result of something other than the use of mayhems dyes. They cannot replicate this in a lab without the actual gpus or cpu of the effected system. I'll be you a dollar to a doughnut that it's electrical current that is causing the color shift when one loop of a dual loop system is stable and the other is shifting color. Do some research on voltage leakage, it is actually what determines the quality of you cpu and gpu and how they are binned. I used to hear about "burn in" of your cpu or gpu............. recon what that was for? Recon it was for melting trace paths? Who knows. Maybe those who do a whole lot of research will find the answer. But without enough equipment to establish a baseline it would be very difficult to establish. Try a watch battery or even the lowest voltage device you can find and set up for or five test samples and see what I've seen, the more current the quicker the degradation of the pastel coolant. Hope this helps some of you. I guess the only advice I can give is to make sure you cover your complete die with "non conductive thermal paste". Check you ph level of your loop on the first fill and each week there after. I'd also test mine with an ohm meter. Just stick the probe in the top of the res if you have a hole and note the reading. You will always see a change in both PH and voltage over time while stress testing. Don't mean to ramble but "current" is the problem, radiator flux had NOTHING to do with the coolant if they're given an acid bath before use. Also, if you've done everything you can do and still haven't stopped the color shift, I would try just plain "water wetter" at the local auto parts store. It's clear, no conductive, and will drop your temps a good 2 to 3 degrees and is environmentally degradable. You can't use any type of water in a race car, you have to use water wetter and also slow the water flow down by placing a washer in the thermostat or the car will run hot. A car is dealing with much higher temps than an extremely overclocked gpu........................... or are we???? Hope someone gets something from this they can use. My sincere apologies to the grammer police.


----------



## ragevirus

Anyone know if it is ok to mix mayhems X1 and pastel together?


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ragevirus*
> 
> Anyone know if it is ok to mix mayhems X1 and pastel together?


Bump because I need to know this too. I have a bunch of X1 clear here and my friend wants colored fluid. I was thinking just adding the color to the x1. However, for some reason, I thought I read that youre NOT supposed to mix the X1 with the pastel. Its been way too long

*Side Note: Anyone know* how long I can get out of my X1 clear before it becomes conductive (or more conductive than new)? Ive gone quite a while this time without changing fluid (prob not good)


----------



## ragevirus

You can dye the X1 if you buy some of mayhems dye. Its cheap like 6 bucks. I have used every color dye they have in it at various times. I have also dyed the pastel a myriad of colors. Also the X1 says it is safe for use in system with a life of about 2 years. It doesnt say anything i could find about picking up conductivity though.

What I want to do is mix pastel white and X1 oil black. I have already mixed them together I really like the color i am just not sure if it is safe for long term use or if the two are incompatible in system. Both fluids have been in my system at seperate times for over a month with full use with no problems.

Couple pages back I asked about the Aurora. I mixed the Aurora silver with oil black X1. It looked pretty damn cool. When I put it in the rig, the drain i have and jet plate made it lose its pearly in about two days, It was nice looking and performed well too just didnt hold up in my system. Which is as designed as the instructions in the wiki say to remove the jet plate and not have drain or a bunch of nineties confirmed by the kind folks on this forum. Thanks to any who posted. Just thought i would share the results.


----------



## ragevirus

I opened a ticket with Mayhems support also. So if someone here does not know the answer hopefully we will get it from them. Ill post the reply here when i receive a response. They have been quick to respond in the past


----------



## ragevirus

Still nothing from mayhems support.
But I did mix the x1 black and pastel white and have had no issues been running for 2 days. Temps are the same as with just the X1. Ill report back if any issues crop up or i here anything offical from mayhems.


----------



## iamkraine

I purchased mayhems pastel white about 2 years ago. I only used about half of the batch. If I replace the now 2 year old fluid that in the machine with the 2 year old fluid I did not use the last time, would it be beneficial or should I purchase new pastel white?


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I purchased mayhems pastel white about 2 years ago. I only used about half of the batch. If I replace the now 2 year old fluid that in the machine with the 2 year old fluid I did not use the last time, would it be beneficial or should I purchase new pastel white?


If it's been stored in a cool dark place it's probably just fine.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> I tried a little experiment where I dropped a watch battery in a liter of pastel red. It was black in 4 days. So a lot of leaking current on a gpu die that is not fully insulated from the waterblock by non conductive thermal paste has a drastic effect on the dye. It's not the dye's fault, it's just the nature of stray voltage. Extreme overclocks leak a whole lot more current than just a regular overclock depending on the chip. I think Mayhems should have a disclaimer about very high overclocks or even possibly do some experiments on how to prevent the high transfer of stray current when cards or cpus leak current. It's a very real think and in the end I think this will be the determining factor of how long your dye lasts. I really think it has nothing to do with heat. I cover the complete heat spreader with non conductive thermal paste, not just the pea method. This will by no means stop metal to metal contact in some areas but will drastically cut down on the amount of metal to metal and may even completely eliminate it. I'm going to do some more tests with an ohm meter, the only problem is I don't have much test material. It someone has a system that is having a problem than I suggest an ohm meter test every day do monitor the current. This should be done while running extreme stress tests on the cpu and then the gpus. I believe that all of the controversy that has been occurring is the result of something other than the use of mayhems dyes. They cannot replicate this in a lab without the actual gpus or cpu of the effected system. I'll be you a dollar to a doughnut that it's electrical current that is causing the color shift when one loop of a dual loop system is stable and the other is shifting color. Do some research on voltage leakage, it is actually what determines the quality of you cpu and gpu and how they are binned. I used to hear about "burn in" of your cpu or gpu............. recon what that was for? Recon it was for melting trace paths? Who knows. Maybe those who do a whole lot of research will find the answer. But without enough equipment to establish a baseline it would be very difficult to establish. Try a watch battery or even the lowest voltage device you can find and set up for or five test samples and see what I've seen, the more current the quicker the degradation of the pastel coolant. Hope this helps some of you. I guess the only advice I can give is to make sure you cover your complete die with "non conductive thermal paste". Check you ph level of your loop on the first fill and each week there after. I'd also test mine with an ohm meter. Just stick the probe in the top of the res if you have a hole and note the reading. You will always see a change in both PH and voltage over time while stress testing. Don't mean to ramble but "current" is the problem, radiator flux had NOTHING to do with the coolant if they're given an acid bath before use. Also, if you've done everything you can do and still haven't stopped the color shift, I would try just plain "water wetter" at the local auto parts store. It's clear, no conductive, and will drop your temps a good 2 to 3 degrees and is environmentally degradable. You can't use any type of water in a race car, you have to use water wetter and also slow the water flow down by placing a washer in the thermostat or the car will run hot. A car is dealing with much higher temps than an extremely overclocked gpu........................... or are we???? Hope someone gets something from this they can use. My sincere apologies to the grammer police.


We know about positive and negative ions and electric current will effect the imbalance between this. Were working on a new mixture form the ground up were the positive and negative ions have a buffer with a larger tolerance between them to stop the transference of ions between each Ion layer with in the system. This is in a very early stage and we do not expect to see any movement from us on this for a while due to the length of time it takes to test these things. But very nice assumption and glad to see your thinking out the box.... Well done







we need to see more of this in the industry and less blaming.


----------



## ragevirus

Mayhems support has responded to my question. With an such an excellent and well informed answer about not only mixing the X1 and pastel but also how to make a better black using dye. I would like to quote there response as it may serve to answer questions in the future.

Mayhems, If any of this is out of line or this information is not for public consumption let me know and I will edit or take down this post

Thanks Ian for such an informative and friendly response.

*
Hi Jacob

There are no incompatibilites in mixing the X1 Oil Black with Pastel White,

FYI : There is no true Black in Nature, Mayhems Black it is made up:-

Mayhems Purple Dye + Mayhems Yellow Dye = Black

and with a Bright light source you will catch a hint of purple within the black if you get the right angle to look at the coolant.

If You need any further information, Please contact me.

Regards

Ian

Hi Jacob

There is one product called Mayhems Pastel Extreme:- [ Can use Dyes to colour]

https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/pastel-coolants/pastel-extreme-100ml/mayhems-pastel-extreme-white-100ml/

and this cannot be mixed with any other coolant, Biocide or inhibitor. This is a totally different product even though it has the word " Pastel " in its product name. [ In hindsight not a great decision














]

Otherwise the mixing with the X1 and the regular Mayhems Pastel is correct.

For example Pastel White is very dense, which makes it hard to colour easily, so if you add water this thins it down, but the downside is you dilute the Inhibitors and the biocide, which in the long term is not good.

So you can either:-

1) Use " X1 Clear " to thin down the Pastel White ie:- (700ml White + 300ml X1 Clear = 1ltr) and then colour using a dye.

2) Use an X1 Coloured coolant instead of " X1 clear & Dye " combination to thin down the Pastel white.

Does this make sense to you?

Regards

Ian*


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ragevirus*
> 
> Mayhems support has responded to my question. With an such an excellent and well informed answer about not only mixing the X1 and pastel but also how to make a better black using dye. I would like to quote there response as it may serve to answer questions in the future.
> 
> Mayhems, If any of this is out of line or this information is not for public consumption let me know and I will edit or take down this post
> 
> Thanks Ian for such an informative and friendly response.
> 
> *
> Hi Jacob
> 
> There are no incompatibilites in mixing the X1 Oil Black with Pastel White,
> 
> FYI : There is no true Black in Nature, Mayhems Black it is made up:-
> 
> Mayhems Purple Dye + Mayhems Yellow Dye = Black
> 
> and with a Bright light source you will catch a hint of purple within the black if you get the right angle to look at the coolant.
> 
> If You need any further information, Please contact me.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Ian
> 
> Hi Jacob
> 
> There is one product called Mayhems Pastel Extreme:- [ Can use Dyes to colour]
> 
> https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/pastel-coolants/pastel-extreme-100ml/mayhems-pastel-extreme-white-100ml/
> 
> and this cannot be mixed with any other coolant, Biocide or inhibitor. This is a totally different product even though it has the word " Pastel " in its product name. [ In hindsight not a great decision
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> Otherwise the mixing with the X1 and the regular Mayhems Pastel is correct.
> 
> For example Pastel White is very dense, which makes it hard to colour easily, so if you add water this thins it down, but the downside is you dilute the Inhibitors and the biocide, which in the long term is not good.
> 
> So you can either:-
> 
> 1) Use " X1 Clear " to thin down the Pastel White ie:- (700ml White + 300ml X1 Clear = 1ltr) and then colour using a dye.
> 
> 2) Use an X1 Coloured coolant instead of " X1 clear & Dye " combination to thin down the Pastel white.
> 
> Does this make sense to you?
> 
> Regards
> 
> Ian*


Yup hes doing a dammed fine job.


----------



## FastRedPonyCar

Rig started off last year with red pastel fluid and it turned purple on me as well as gunked up the blocks and left a purple pastel film or something on everything. My temps had been getting progressively higher and higher to the point that I knew something was up and I ended up dunking the blocks in a tupperware bowl with distilled water and used a toothbrush to clean all the goop out of the fins on the block.

I soaked all the acrylic parts in vinegar and they all cleaned up pretty easily

I've spent all weekend cleaning everything but still not entirely sure what caused it.

When I initially built the loop, I ran vinegar and distilled water through the radiators with an in-line filter to catch any debris from the radiators and I was under the impression that vinegar/water was an acceptable solution to clean/prep a loop.

Tubing is all primoflex advance LRT which the Mayhem's site says is okay to use with the pastel fluid.

Anyways, I've got 2 more quarts of the pastel fluid but I think I'm just going to run distilled water in the loop from this point on. This was a mess and I don't want to deal with it again.

I've got the system in my garage on it's final rinse. I've done 2 distilled water + vinegar rinses with a distilled water flush after each rinse and now, it's running distilled water + a bottle of primochill sys prep now. This final rinse without the vinegar is when I added the 2 blocks. EK's product info page specifically says to not run vinegar through the nickle coated blocks so I waited till this rinse to add them and check for leaks.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FastRedPonyCar*
> 
> Rig started off last year with red pastel fluid and it turned purple on me as well as gunked up the blocks and left a purple pastel film or something on everything. My temps had been getting progressively higher and higher to the point that I knew something was up and I ended up dunking the blocks in a tupperware bowl with distilled water and used a toothbrush to clean all the goop out of the fins on the block.
> 
> I soaked all the acrylic parts in vinegar and they all cleaned up pretty easily
> 
> I've spent all weekend cleaning everything but still not entirely sure what caused it.
> 
> When I initially built the loop, I ran vinegar and distilled water through the radiators with an in-line filter to catch any debris from the radiators and I was under the impression that vinegar/water was an acceptable solution to clean/prep a loop.
> 
> Tubing is all primoflex advance LRT which the Mayhem's site says is okay to use with the pastel fluid.
> 
> Anyways, I've got 2 more quarts of the pastel fluid but I think I'm just going to run distilled water in the loop from this point on. This was a mess and I don't want to deal with it again.
> 
> I've got the system in my garage on it's final rinse. I've done 2 distilled water + vinegar rinses with a distilled water flush after each rinse and now, it's running distilled water + a bottle of primochill sys prep now. This final rinse without the vinegar is when I added the 2 blocks. EK's product info page specifically says to not run vinegar through the nickle coated blocks so I waited till this rinse to add them and check for leaks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I always suggest the blitz kit when using pastel. Pastel is a very sensitive fluid and any contamination or ph issues will ruin it. I blitzed my system before running pastel and never had an issue with it.
I did the shake/drain followed by 20min faucet flush and a few final distilled flushes for my current system using x1 and its been fine so far.

If you do the blitz, make sure you get the part 2 flushed REALLY well when you're done.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> When I initially built the loop, I ran vinegar and distilled water through the radiators with an in-line filter to catch any debris from the radiators and I was under the impression that vinegar/water was an acceptable solution to clean/prep a loop.


Im sorry to say Vinegar and distilled water on it own is never an acceptable solution for cleaning a system. Its a good start but is like stripping down wood then leaving it to the natural elements that will change it over time. You need to get rid of the acid and the cheapest way to do it is to use Bicarbonate of soda.


----------



## muzammil84

on The other note.
I am looking for 480 rad for Thermaltake Core P5. I know already that Mayhems is not making Havoc 480 anymore and is not going to in the near future. The solution is 2x 240mm rads and some case modification. On Mayhems website they sell obviously Havocs(which I owed in 360mm size and I am very happy with) and some thin Darkside rads. Does anyone know which is a better performer?(especially at low speed fans).


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Im sorry to say Vinegar and distilled water on it own is never an acceptable solution for cleaning a system. Its a good start but is like stripping down wood then leaving it to the natural elements that will change it over time. You need to get rid of the acid and the cheapest way to do it is to use Bicarbonate of soda.


Ah I ran mine under the tap for a goooooooood long time and then distilled for a few days after the vinegar treatment then drained it all out but I know what you're saying. I'm planning on getting the blitz kit in september for my winter cleaning, I'll do all my rads and once they're done they're done.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> m sorry to say Vinegar and distilled water on it own is never an acceptable solution for cleaning a system. Its a good start but is like stripping down wood then leaving it to the natural elements that will change it over time. You need to get rid of the acid and the cheapest way to do it is to use Bicarbonate of soda.


I will totally agree, vinegar and water does clean, but to the point, some believe it works, some people have convinced themselves that it does.
I have tried in the past and after opening one of my blocks it really didn't clean much and actually vinegar has helped tarnished my micro chanel of my Heatkiller CPU block
I used Blitz 2 on my other machine that had exactly the same components (my sons PC) and after opening CPU block on that PC it was different story, it made my block shiny, looking like new, no way vinegar solution will clean your system, let alone neutralize any acid you might have in it.
Blitz Par2 became my annual system cleaner, it does fabulous job


----------



## Iceman2733

With people doing the Concentrated X1 did you go with DI water or did you run the Pure H2O from Mahems? I was wanting to go with Pure H20 but I am not paying the silly shipping charges for the fluid if it isn't really needed. I can pick up DI water from several local stores but I wanted to see if anyone has had issues with just DI water or any advantages going with the Pure H20. Thanks everyone


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> With people doing the Concentrated X1 did you go with DI water or did you run the Pure H2O from Mahems? I was wanting to go with Pure H20 but I am not paying the silly shipping charges for the fluid if it isn't really needed. I can pick up DI water from several local stores but I wanted to see if anyone has had issues with just DI water or any advantages going with the Pure H20. Thanks everyone


I've always used distilled water that I find locally. for x1 I'd personally definitely just use distilled (its what I'm using right now), something like pastel I might consider paying the extra to get Mayhem's along with blitz just to make sure I don't have any issues.


----------



## huckincharlie

I just bought 3 liters of black pastel







how to repair color ?


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> I just bought 3 liters of black pastel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how to repair color ?


Guess you got unlucky and got 3 different batches.
Only thing I can suggest, now that you have opened them, is to mix them together and see if that helps.


----------



## 414347

Boy o boy, they look totally like blue. I don't think mixing them will change anything, they will still stay blue, maybe different shade, but they are far from black.
My nephew got black while ago and I have to admit, the darn thing is like a oil black, really nice and I think 3 months later still looks the same.
You just got unlucky, contact Mayhems support I'm sure they will help you.


----------



## DarthBaggins

More than likely adding a drop of red (I think) would darken them towards black or green dye - I'm sure someone else here might know which dye would fix your issue 100%
This is part of the reason I never wanted to go black with my fluid colors (the other is I don't have a scheme it would go well with)


----------



## SteezyTN

Ive had my Pastel Ice white running in my system for almost a year (actually I think its been exactly one year). Well its starting to get a bluish tent. I really can't decide if I want to change it out and run only distilled with biocides, or swap it out and get more ice white. Its just such a pain to work with, and 3 liters is so expensive.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Ive had my Pastel Ice white running in my system for almost a year (actually I think its been exactly one year). Well its starting to get a bluish tent. I really can't decide if I want to change it out and run only distilled with biocides, or swap it out and get more ice white. Its just such a pain to work with, and 3 liters is so expensive.


This is most curious as the white is the natural color of the nanoparticles aggregates even to a large size, and I am wondering where the blue is coming from. You should hit up Mayhems support for sure as I think they will be curious also.

In case you haven't seen yet, Pastel Extreme is in white and can be diluted to a lot more for the same price. It is more stable in general also.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This is most curious as the white is the natural color of the nanoparticles aggregates even to a large size, and I am wondering where the blue is coming from. You should hit up Mayhems support for sure as I think they will be curious also.
> 
> In case you haven't seen yet, Pastel Extreme is in white and can be diluted to a lot more for the same price. It is more stable in general also.


All my pastel (original and extreme) has always turned a blue/green tint. In my case it's caused by the corrosion or patina in my radiators and also the Lighting block too. The nickel is gone and it has turned blue/green.

This time I'm just accepting it and added nonstain blue dye to it. I'm too lazy and too busy to deal with it.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> All my pastel (original and extreme) has always turned a blue/green tint. In my case it's caused by the corrosion or patina in my radiators and also the Lighting block too. *The nickel is gone and it has turned blue/green.*
> 
> This time I'm just accepting it and added nonstain blue dye to it. I'm too lazy and too busy to deal with it.


Well that's just not right. Did you talk to EK/Bitspower/whoever made it?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This is most curious as the white is the natural color of the nanoparticles aggregates even to a large size, and I am wondering where the blue is coming from. You should hit up Mayhems support for sure as I think they will be curious also.
> 
> In case you haven't seen yet, Pastel Extreme is in white and can be diluted to a lot more for the same price. It is more stable in general also.


What could I possibly do with mayhems support? I've seen one other person who used ice white, and it started getting a bluish tent after a year. Could this be my fault? I used the blitz pro system. Or should I just toss it all out and get some Ice White extreme (or possibly use regular distilled with biocides)?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well that's just not right. Did you talk to EK/Bitspower/whoever made it?


Got the block used with the card. I didn't open the block on the first loop (X1 blue). After draining and switching back to pastel I did finally open it and saw all the corrosion in the middle of the micro-channels.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What could I possibly do with mayhems support? I've seen one other person who used ice white, and it started getting a bluish tent after a year. Could this be my fault? I used the blitz pro system. Or should I just toss it all out and get some Ice White extreme (or possibly use regular distilled with biocides)?


Talk and see, I suppose. Nothing to lose.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Got the block used with the card. I didn't open the block on the first loop (X1 blue). After draining and switching back to pastel I did finally open it and saw all the corrosion in the middle of the micro-channels.


Sad


----------



## ToxM82

This thread is so huge, going page by page just isnt going to happen with out aging a year haha

I am looking to get a UV Blue as close to this blue here:



Preferably exact if possible, one of my biggest concerns is "messing up my loop/blocks" I don't want to deal with massive cleaning down the line if possible so from what I am reading "Distilled water is best" with Mayhems dyes and some biosides


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Talk and see, I suppose. Nothing to lose.
> Sad


We live. We learn. It still performs great so there's that.


----------



## 1911Savage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> This thread is so huge, going page by page just isnt going to happen with out aging a year haha
> 
> I am looking to get a UV Blue as close to this blue here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Preferably exact if possible, one of my biggest concerns is "messing up my loop/blocks" I don't want to deal with massive cleaning down the line if possible so from what I am reading "Distilled water is best" with Mayhems dyes and some biosides


You can probably get that shade of blue using dyes but you may have to experiment some.
You may have already seen this but if not you might get some ideas from this build (it's an 8 part build log):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7sge4ybbGo&list=PLWYPRHLWSBL4B04Ab1v3TNsj1akqyW_-E

He uses UV blue and Clear UV blue in the loops.


----------



## ToxM82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1911Savage*
> 
> You can probably get that shade of blue using dyes but you may have to experiment some.
> You may have already seen this but if not you might get some ideas from this build (it's an 8 part build log):
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7sge4ybbGo&list=PLWYPRHLWSBL4B04Ab1v3TNsj1akqyW_-E
> 
> He uses UV blue and Clear UV blue in the loops.


Nice build, not blue enough IMO. almost seems to clear still. hmmm


----------



## SteezyTN

So I've decided to keep my Pastel Ice white. Yeah it has turned slightly bluish, but it's still pretty white. What's the best way to "clean" the coolant? Is running it through coffee filters multiple times more than enough, or can I do anything else?


----------



## Zyrael

Hey all!

Working on an everyday use computer build. It's a rigid loop using PETG tubing.

First: I'd like an Aurora effect. I simply love it. But I've heard various reports that Aurora only lasts weeks, days, hours... miliseconds... and other hyperbole. Also that it gunks up and generally bricks loops.

Second: I'd like it to be a highly saturated yellow color.

Any advice on getting my vision together is greatly appreciated.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I've decided to keep my Pastel Ice white. Yeah it has turned slightly bluish, but it's still pretty white. What's the best way to "clean" the coolant? Is running it through coffee filters multiple times more than enough, or can I do anything else?


Yes, running it through a coffee filter is what Mayhems recommends.


----------



## huckincharlie

check this out! xspc put to shame mayhems


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrael*
> 
> Hey all!
> 
> Working on an everyday use computer build. It's a rigid loop using PETG tubing.
> 
> First: I'd like an Aurora effect. I simply love it. But I've heard various reports that Aurora only lasts weeks, days, hours... miliseconds... and other hyperbole. Also that it gunks up and generally bricks loops.
> 
> Second: I'd like it to be a highly saturated yellow color.
> 
> Any advice on getting my vision together is greatly appreciated.


first: yes it can definitely be a short term effect sometimes, I've heard of others having better luck with it though. My personal record is about 2 months but for a while I wasnt keeping my PC on 24/7 which wasn't helping. I've never personally experienced build up to the point of flow restriction or increased temps though, I guess it could depend on your loop. Avoiding bay-res, 90° fittings, quick disconnects and keeping a d5 or ddc at full speed 24/7 should be a good start

Second: I would think your best bet would be silver aurora and yellow dye but I'm no dye mixologist


----------



## Zyrael

Thanks for the input!

Gonna order Aurora Silver and non-staining yellow from Mayhems with a kill coil.

I tend to not run my systems 24/7. I alternate using sleep and shut downs. But that's because I pay the power bill. I also turn off lights religiously and monitor the AC, haha.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> check this out! xspc put to shame mayhems




Just to give you heads up, my nephew got the same XSPC black 2 weeks ago I don't know where he got it thou.......3 days and it turned brown/chocolate, talking quick color change


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrael*
> 
> Thanks for the input!
> 
> Gonna order Aurora Silver and non-staining yellow from Mayhems with a kill coil.
> 
> I tend to not run my systems 24/7. I alternate using sleep and shut downs. But that's because I pay the power bill. I also turn off lights religiously and monitor the AC, haha.


The killcoil won't be necessary since Aurora contains everything you need in it already. Biocide, corrosion, you're all taken care of
I also don't usually run my pc 24/7 for the same reason, but I worked it out to about 12 cents a day where I live if I leave it on overnight and while I'm at work. Small price to pay to me if it helps keep that Aurora suspended! I've also had to keep my d5 on 5 permanently to keep it going long term so try and make sure you have good pump vibration isolation or things could get noisy!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> The killcoil won't be necessary since Aurora contains everything you need in it already. Biocide, corrosion, you're all taken care of
> I also don't usually run my pc 24/7 for the same reason, but I worked it out to about 12 cents a day where I live if I leave it on overnight and while I'm at work. Small price to pay to me if it helps keep that Aurora suspended! I've also had to keep my d5 on 5 permanently to keep it going long term so try and make sure you have good pump vibration isolation or things could get noisy!


On 5 permanently? Urgh, I couldn't do that! It vibrates far too much to remain silent enough for me lol but then again it makes sense for you if you're keeping Aurora particles suspended.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> On 5 permanently? Urgh, I couldn't do that! It vibrates far too much to remain silent enough for me lol but then again it makes sense for you if you're keeping Aurora particles suspended.


that is recommended by mayhems, I believe they say 4 or 5 but I just switched mine to 4 a week or so ago, after months of being at 5 and doing great, and it's already gone now. So 5 it is for me if I choose to do aurora this time. I'm in the middle of a rebuild (log) and ill be testing out my pump mounts tomorrow I think. As well as doing your thumb screw mod









I'm not sure I'll use Aurora this time though, since the components I've chosen to use are less than ideal for it. Although I did get some just in case


----------



## Zyrael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> The killcoil won't be necessary since Aurora contains everything you need in it already. Biocide, corrosion, you're all taken care of
> I also don't usually run my pc 24/7 for the same reason, but I worked it out to about 12 cents a day where I live if I leave it on overnight and while I'm at work. Small price to pay to me if it helps keep that Aurora suspended! I've also had to keep my d5 on 5 permanently to keep it going long term so try and make sure you have good pump vibration isolation or things could get noisy!


Well I'm using the Silver concentrate... does that still have the biocide?

Does it really prolong Aurora lifespan keeping it going all the time? Because I have a 12v / molex adapter for powering the pump during testing. Could run it on that and power down the PC when I want.

using this *res/pump combo*.

thick foam pads where it secures to the case (Thermaltake Core P5) so hopefully it stays quiet.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrael*
> 
> Well I'm using the Silver concentrate... does that still have the biocide?
> 
> Does it really prolong Aurora lifespan keeping it going all the time? Because I have a 12v / molex adapter for powering the pump during testing. Could run it on that and power down the PC when I want.
> 
> using this *res/pump combo*.
> 
> thick foam pads where it secures to the case (Thermaltake Core P5) so hopefully it stays quiet.


yup! As long as your not using the booster and dye then you are good.

I believe it helps quite a bit too keep it going 24/7. I'm thinking about running a second PSU in my table for the pumps and a few slow fans since the pumps do produce some heat by themselves (especially on 5). A 12vdc to molex adapter would work fine too as long as your water isn't getting too warm when the fans are off.


----------



## Zyrael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> yup! As long as your not using the booster and dye then you are good.
> 
> I believe it helps quite a bit too keep it going 24/7. I'm thinking about running a second PSU in my table for the pumps and a few slow fans since the pumps do produce some heat by themselves (especially on 5). A 12vdc to molex adapter would work fine too as long as your water isn't getting too warm when the fans are off.


Ambient air around 70 F should handle that, no?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrael*
> 
> Ambient air around 70 F should handle that, no?


hard to say. If the rads get a little bit of airflow naturally then it'll probably be fine. The first time I leak tested a loop I didn't run any fans for 24 hours and when I got home from work to check in things the fittings were definitely warm to the touch and that was only 1 pump. I have no idea what temp the water was at but it made me cautious of it from then on


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> hard to say. If the rads get a little bit of airflow naturally then it'll probably be fine. The first time I leak tested a loop I didn't run any fans for 24 hours and when I got home from work to check in things the fittings were definitely warm to the touch and that was only 1 pump. I have no idea what temp the water was at but it made me cautious of it from then on


Honestly you're D5 won't produce enough heat to saturate a single 360mm rad, having used boiling water to clean my rads and having felt how fast the water goes from boiling to cold I would be shocked if your D5 overpowered your setup while leak testing. From personal experience leak testing a loop with a D5 on setting 5 for 12 hours or so without the fans running it wasn't warm to the touch or anything?


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This is most curious as the white is the natural color of the nanoparticles aggregates even to a large size, and I am wondering where the blue is coming from. You should hit up Mayhems support for sure as I think they will be curious also.
> 
> In case you haven't seen yet, Pastel Extreme is in white and can be diluted to a lot more for the same price. It is more stable in general also.



I've had this testube with mayhems white pastel sitting for 7 months, untouched, never been introduced to a running system. The nano-particles are white but if you take a look at the fluid that the particles separated from has a blue tinge to it. However when viewing it through light you get a whole other story.


Here it is shining a 300 lumen 5000k+ light through it.

The liquid is yellowish/champagne color which is possibly due to the carrier that helps keep the particles in suspension. It is possible the blue is the biocide which also happens to help neutralize the yellowish tinge. I'm not sure exactly which is which but either way, the blue helps keep things white. It's just like dog shampoos that are specific to dogs with white hair are a blue/purplish color or how you see toilet bowl cleaners which are colored blue. The blue helps to turn warmer white, colder.


----------



## VSG

Well that's clearly an unstable suspension. Having said that, leaving it in a test tube and untouched for months would just have aggravated the precipitation.


----------



## greg1184

I'm switching to a red build. Just ordered some Mayhems X2 blood red coolant.

Used the Mayhems X2 UV blue before. I really like the dye. Did not stain my clear tubes at all. Didn't even stain my carpet when I spilled some lol. Can't wait.


----------



## charliebrown

doing another build bought 1 bottle of green coolant but need alot more can i add water if so how much before i mess with the properties inside


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> doing another build bought 1 bottle of green coolant but need alot more can i add water if so how much before i mess with the properties inside


We need more information, what coolant is it? Also adding more water means you're going to thin it out and make the colour lighter and less opaque.


----------



## charliebrown

its mayhems green coolant


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> its mayhems green coolant


Pastel? X1? concentrate? Dye?


----------



## ToxM82

This maybe a dumb question but, How do you know how much dye to mix in your loop? Should you fill your loop first then drain it back into a bucket and mix it that way until you get the desired color? (Best way I can think of doing it, or do you actually put the dye in once the water is fully in the loop and get your desired color that way? - Curious how others are doing it.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> This maybe a dumb question but, How do you know how much dye to mix in your loop? Should you fill your loop first then drain it back into a bucket and mix it that way until you get the desired color? (Best way I can think of doing it, or do you actually put the dye in once the water is fully in the loop and get your desired color that way? - Curious how others are doing it.


If you add dye to the loop with coolant already in the loop, it takes a long time to mix together. Most people end up adding too much dye this way.

I would recommend adding the dye to the coolant and then put the coolant into your loop. If you are not sure how much coolant it requires, then yes fill system and drain, add dye and put back in system.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> This maybe a dumb question but, How do you know how much dye to mix in your loop? Should you fill your loop first then drain it back into a bucket and mix it that way until you get the desired color? (Best way I can think of doing it, or do you actually put the dye in once the water is fully in the loop and get your desired color that way? - Curious how others are doing it.


Once you've done it several times, you can work it out by looking at the parts and adding them all together. Always mix your dye and coolant first before putting it in the loop because that colour will BE that colour in your loop. You can get spec details from manufactuers sites to help narrow it down.

CPU block is about 15-20ml
GPU block varies from 30-60ml
Rads can hold about 100ml or so depending on the size
Res, 240mm res holds 500ml or so (I think)
tubing another 50ml or so

I remember thinking about it for 5mins or so when filling the gf's loop and I was spot on, the loop was full to the brim after bleeding the air out for a few mins, still full now months later.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> This maybe a dumb question but, How do you know how much dye to mix in your loop? Should you fill your loop first then drain it back into a bucket and mix it that way until you get the desired color? (Best way I can think of doing it, or do you actually put the dye in once the water is fully in the loop and get your desired color that way? - Curious how others are doing it.


I buy concentrated coolant and mix it into an empty distilled jug, then add the dye. I then move any extra into an airtight bottle after filling the loop. I like the sodastream bottles for this.

I also do this so that when I top off the system later I won't have to mess with getting the color the same as it was.


----------



## eucalyptus

What happens if I mix Phobya crystal clear blue water with a few drops of Mayhem UV green/yellow dye? Would I screw up, or could it be a nice tropical mix? I have normal UV green and emerald green to mix with too if that could be a better combination?


----------



## stanneveld

"crystal clear blue water" somehow that sounds weird.
Or its blue or clear.
And i would not mix anything from other manufactures together.


----------



## ali13245

Does anyone here have any experience with mayhems dye + distilled water?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Does anyone here have any experience with mayhems dye + distilled water?


Hi @ali13245

Might as well ask the question about which you seek answers


----------



## ali13245

I remember reading a post where mick himself said it was okay to use mayhems dye + distilled but should also add PT Nuke with it, however that post was from a couple of years ago, and I wanted to know if it still applies today?


----------



## greg1184

Got my red x2 dye mixed waiting for final shipment of parts coming Wednesday.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> I remember reading a post where mick himself said it was okay to use mayhems dye + distilled but should also add PT Nuke with it, however that post was from a couple of years ago, and I wanted to know if it still applies today?


Hi, this is a text copied from Mayhems website, it's regarding NON STAIN DYE:

"These new Mayhems non stain dyes have a wide pH stability scope and can be used in liquid cooled PC's and Coolants. They should keep their colour longer than any normal high quality dye.
Mayhems non stain dyes contain a biocide that is compatible with Mayhems current range of products (X1, XT1, Pastel, Aurora). They have not been tested on any other manufactured fluids."


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems has been working hard on the issue of colour change and fluid amalgamation and finally may have a new solution we have been working on from the ground up. This is not the perfect answer for all issues found, just some of them.

Soon a new bespoke Dye formulation will be implemented across the whole of Mayhems product ranges and OEM fluids. The new formulation isn't a simple one but not only aids in the colour change issues but also colour fastness meaning that UV light will take longer to fade out dyes.

The bespoke solutions Mayhems has come up with incorporates many differing industry wide technology's making it one of the most advanced dyes used in liquid cooling every created. All the products are created in house using the vast knowledge mick has built up over the years and from information gained from talking with many industry leaders and professionals with in the dye and colour industry.

These new dyes / products will roll out over the next few months.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems has been working hard on the issue of colour change and fluid amalgamation and finally may have a new solution we have been working on from the ground up. This is not the perfect answer for all issues found, just some of them.
> 
> Soon a new bespoke Dye formulation will be implemented across the whole of Mayhems product ranges and OEM fluids. The new formulation isn't a simple one but not only aids in the colour change issues but also colour fastness meaning that UV light will take longer to fade out dyes.
> 
> The bespoke solutions Mayhems has come up with incorporates many differing industry wide technology's making it one of the most advanced dyes used in liquid cooling every created. All the products are created in house using the vast knowledge mick has built up over the years and from information gained from talking with many industry leaders and professionals with in the dye and colour industry.
> 
> These new dyes / products will roll out over the next few months.


Looking forward to UV dye lasting longer!


----------



## JCArch

Hello Mayhems users, I'm wondering what the best way to make a pastel grey coolant is. I already have Mayhems pastel white coolant left over from a previous build, so is it as easy as mixing in some pastel black concentrate in there until I achieve the desired color?


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Hello Mayhems users, I'm wondering what the best way to make a pastel grey coolant is. I already have Mayhems pastel white coolant left over from a previous build, so is it as easy as mixing in some pastel black concentrate in there until I achieve the desired color?


There's a video on youtube about this if you do a quick search.

If I remember, you need red and green dye (+ the white pastel of course) to achieve it.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> There's a video on youtube about this if you do a quick search.
> 
> If I remember, you need red and green dye (+ the white pastel of course) to achieve it.


Got it! I'll take a look. Have a gun metal Caselabs BH2 coming next month, and am going to pack it full of EK goodies, which will all be nickel/plexi, so I'd love to show off a coolant to tie the build together









Thanks for pointing me in the right direction +rep


----------



## ToxM82

Can I mix Mayhems X1 UV Blue Concentrate with the following:

Mayhems Dye - 15ml Ocean Blue

Mayhems Dye - 15ml Clear UV Blue

and should I still use PT Nuke, if I end up mixing all three. (I am trying to get a specific color out of these that will be UV.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> Can I mix Mayhems X1 UV Blue Concentrate with the following:
> 
> Mayhems Dye - 15ml Ocean Blue
> 
> Mayhems Dye - 15ml Clear UV Blue
> 
> and should I still use PT Nuke, if I end up mixing all three. (I am trying to get a specific color out of these that will be UV.


they'll work together just fine and pt nuke won't be necessary since the x1 concentrate has biocides in it


----------



## jlakai

With dye and distilled water only, the water will evaporate rather quickly.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> With dye and distilled water only, the water will evaporate rather quickly.


Are there any downsides to runnning to distilled water + non stain dye + PT Nuke CU?


----------



## Mayhem

Quick Update. Mayhems New Gloss UV White 16mm x 10mm Tubing Food Safe & Medical Grade demo (fast Photo on phone). Coming soon. Were are the only company in the world to use this type of none PVC based tubing and formula which was developed from the ground up in house at Mayhems for liquid cooled PCs.

The new tubing adherers to the new EU REACH standards and is fully working with ethylene glycol.





These are fast phone photos better ones will come later. Will be sold in 1 Meter, 3 Meter and 30 Meter bundles.

Has been tested on and is being tested on a 50/50 ethylene glycol mix and a standard X1 mix system.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quick Update. Mayhems New Gloss UV White 16mm x 10mm Tubing Food Safe & Medical Grade demo (fast Photo on phone). Coming soon. Were are the only company in the world to use this type of none PVC based tubing and formula which was developed from the ground up in house at Mayhems for liquid cooled PCs.
> 
> The new tubing adherers to the new EU REACH standards and is fully working with ethylene glycol.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are fast phone photos better ones will come later. Will be sold in 1 Meter, 3 Meter and 30 Meter bundles.
> 
> Has been tested on and is being tested on a 50/50 ethylene glycol mix and a standard X1 mix system.


Nice work Mick, keep it up!


----------



## SteezyTN

So I swapped over to mayhems ultra clear tubing (from XSPC colored and primochill clear). When doing that, I had to buy all new fittings because I previously had 7/16". Well I'm kind of bummed with the mayhems ultra clear tubing. Took it out of my loop after about a year, and it's colored just like the primochill clear tubing was.





The top piece was used for a couple seconds to drain the loop, and the other pieces were used for that year. Is this normal for it to change to a "yucky greenish/yellow?" I used mayhems pastel Ice white.


----------



## Zorpro

Hello guys.

I was looking for perfect green like this showed previous in this threat http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c4/350x700px-LL-c47bb444_mzZJt.jpeg . I have 2 liters of Mayhem pastel UV green, blue dye, non stain green dye, emerald green dye, Its everything i can grab in green color while friend was on vacation, because i live in Serbia and you cant find any color here. If Am right I need UV Yellow/green around 20-30 drops or i can make it with dyes I already have?









Thanks and sorry for my bad English I hope you understand.

:wave:


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I swapped over to mayhems ultra clear tubing (from XSPC colored and primochill clear). When doing that, I had to buy all new fittings because I previously had 7/16". Well I'm kind of bummed with the mayhems ultra clear tubing. Took it out of my loop after about a year, and it's colored just like the primochill clear tubing was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top piece was used for a couple seconds to drain the loop, and the other pieces were used for that year. Is this normal for it to change to a "yucky greenish/yellow?" I used mayhems pastel Ice white.


Is it okay to reuse soft tubing? I will be draining out my yellow coolant, and adding in blue coolant.


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Are there any downsides to runnning to distilled water + non stain dye + PT Nuke CU?


I never used pt nuke before so I'm not really qualified to give you an accurate answer. I had test tubes filled with various mayhems coolants and the ones that only had distilled water and dye dried out.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> I never used pt nuke before so I'm not really qualified to give you an accurate answer. I had test tubes filled with various mayhems coolants and the ones that only had distilled water and dye dried out.


Besides drying out, will it clog up any of my blocks, and radiators?


----------



## Interstate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I swapped over to mayhems ultra clear tubing (from XSPC colored and primochill clear). When doing that, I had to buy all new fittings because I previously had 7/16". Well I'm kind of bummed with the mayhems ultra clear tubing. Took it out of my loop after about a year, and it's colored just like the primochill clear tubing was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top piece was used for a couple seconds to drain the loop, and the other pieces were used for that year. Is this normal for it to change to a "yucky greenish/yellow?" I used mayhems pastel Ice white.


That is exactly why I went to hard tubing. There isnt a clear soft tubing out there that wont change colors over time.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Interstate*
> 
> That is exactly why I went to hard tubing. There isnt a clear soft tubing out there that wont change colors over time.


I do have hard tubing. I just use the soft tubing in the bottom compartment of my SMA8.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I swapped over to mayhems ultra clear tubing (from XSPC colored and primochill clear). When doing that, I had to buy all new fittings because I previously had 7/16". Well I'm kind of bummed with the mayhems ultra clear tubing. Took it out of my loop after about a year, and it's colored just like the primochill clear tubing was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top piece was used for a couple seconds to drain the loop, and the other pieces were used for that year. Is this normal for it to change to a "yucky greenish/yellow?" I used mayhems pastel Ice white.


All soft tubing, no matter what make, WILL go cloudy after a length of time, the quality of the tubing determins how quickly it clouds. MasterKleer will take a few days, Mayhems a year.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Got it! I'll take a look. Have a gun metal Caselabs BH2 coming next month, and am going to pack it full of EK goodies, which will all be nickel/plexi, so I'd love to show off a coolant to tie the build together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for pointing me in the right direction +rep


Here are 2 build logs where he has two shades of gray in his loops.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1548802/build-log-grey-matter-caselabs-s5-with-a-look-of-s8/400_100

http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/build-log-chessboard-sma8/0_100

These might help.


----------



## sdrawkcab

I followed the instructions for the blitz kit but I am worried with my results. When it came to part 2 I began searching this thread.

I started by doing a closed loop flush to try and re-circulate as much of part 2 as possible while following the instructions, I ran through about 2 gallons of distilled water and stopped the closed loop flush. I ran tap water through the multiple radiators for 10-20 minutes each, with variations of switching the entry and exit port. I was sure part 2 was gone from the naked eye, I ran a final distilled flush through the radiators and let them until I had time to start working again. When I picked up on the project, everything seemed fine. After full assembly of the full loop I filled the system with about 3L of distilled water, things looked great. I am trying Mayhems X1 clear, with the pumps off I poured some of the concentrate in my reservoir to see it separate itself from the water, after turning on the pump the reservoir went from see through clear water to a cloudy water which became a tad bit foamy. It settled down and I started playing with color dyes. The particles is some of the aurora booster which I am trying out.

I have some questions regarding my situation because I am hoping the issue is not related to part 2. Is what I see in the pictures below normal? Seems over time it has settled down a bit. Is this foam related to left over residue from part2? If so, why would I not see any foam at all with pure distilled water? Would the oily concentrate mixing with the water at a high flow rate cause this initial foaming or bubbling? I did follow instructions and spent a good amount of time flushing the radiators after completing instructions so I would like to try and figure out where the issue lies, I don't think I could handle leaving the radiators for hours under running water as this seemed a bit excessive. I mixed about ~25ML of part2 to almost half a gallon of water on the initial cleaning.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## 414347

I had similar foam after using Blitz part 2 and that was after I have flashed it at least 5-6x 4L= do the math, over 20 L of DI water.

Blitz is great cleaner and now I use it annually to keep my system sparkle clean, but it needs to be totally gone out of your system and that means you need to run your pumps at full speed for at least 20-30 min each time before flashes, radiators will hold back more of the liquid than you realize and that means some of the blitz could have been still trapped there, especially because is so foamy.

I remember when blitz first came out and I used it to clean my huge single loop I had flashed it at least 6x 4 Liters of DI after blitzing, yet I still had some similar foam on the top of reservoir, but what you see should go away without harming your coolant, unless there is still good amount of Blitz in radiators.

Btw. That red is gorges.


----------



## lu270bro

Blitz Pro part 1 on a new EK Coolstream PE 360.



I am expecting my case from Parvum to ship any day now, and trying to get things ready to assemble. This being my first foray into liquid cooling, I was surprised to see the amount of particulate come out of the rad. I followed the directions exactly, so hopefully this gave it a good cleaning.

I have a question about the X1 concentrate. I grabbed some X1 Clear Concentrate and some X1 UV Green Concentrate. I also have some non-stain dye in blue, yellow, and green. I am going for a yellowish/green color, and not sure yet if I will use the clear + dye or the UV Green + dye. I'm thinking that the clear + dye will allow me to fine tune the color quite a bit easier than trying to alter the color of the UV Green. My question: Has anyone mixed the X1 Concentrate with Distilled, rather than de-ionized water? Are there any drawbacks to using distilled rather than de-ionized? Thanks for any insight folks!


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems welcome Bitspower into into our partnership along side EK and Swiftech, we seemingly are a growing force in the cooling world.


----------



## charliebrown

i like the sound of that


----------



## HackJoe

Hi guys,

I'm working on a new build, logs should kick off in a few days. I'm gonna go with a very nvidia green color of coolant, I've searched this thread and found a ltr of pastel mint green plus 25-30 drops of UV green/yellow dye do a pretty close job. But really I'm looking for an Aurora nvidia green. So, suggestions?

I'm thinking Mayhems yellow and blue dyes, Di water and some silver aurora booster?? Any thoughts? Has it been done?

J.


----------



## jimbo0270

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lu270bro*
> 
> Blitz Pro part 1 on a new EK Coolstream PE 360.
> 
> 
> 
> I am expecting my case from Parvum to ship any day now, and trying to get things ready to assemble. This being my first foray into liquid cooling, I was surprised to see the amount of particulate come out of the rad. I followed the directions exactly, so hopefully this gave it a good cleaning.
> 
> I have a question about the X1 concentrate. I grabbed some X1 Clear Concentrate and some X1 UV Green Concentrate. I also have some non-stain dye in blue, yellow, and green. I am going for a yellowish/green color, and not sure yet if I will use the clear + dye or the UV Green + dye. I'm thinking that the clear + dye will allow me to fine tune the color quite a bit easier than trying to alter the color of the UV Green. My question: Has anyone mixed the X1 Concentrate with Distilled, rather than de-ionized water? Are there any drawbacks to using distilled rather than de-ionized? Thanks for any insight folks!


No, Using DI water is OK but it offers no advantages over distilled water. I fact, de-ionized will re-ionize in your system overtime and some dyes and additives have ions in them anyway.


----------



## lu270bro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimbo0270*
> 
> No, Using DI water is OK but it offers no advantages over distilled water. I fact, de-ionized will re-ionize in your system overtime and some dyes and additives have ions in them anyway.


Thanks for the reply. I was leaning towards distilled because it's easier to get. Thanks again.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HackJoe*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm working on a new build, logs should kick off in a few days. I'm gonna go with a very nvidia green color of coolant, I've searched this thread and found a ltr of pastel mint green plus 25-30 drops of UV green/yellow dye do a pretty close job. But really I'm looking for an Aurora nvidia green. So, suggestions?
> 
> I'm thinking Mayhems yellow and blue dyes, Di water and some silver aurora booster?? Any thoughts? Has it been done?
> 
> J.


the green in my rig gallery is just mayhems x1 with aurora booster. Don't know that is what you're looking for but still


----------



## HackJoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> the green in my rig gallery is just mayhems x1 with aurora booster. Don't know that is what you're looking for but still


Where can I see your result? I've continued my search and it appears 'Mayhems Aurora - Extinction Green' was pretty close to what I'm looking for. Maybe the REP could tell me how to recreate it. I very almost bought Yellow+Blue dye & Silver Aurora booster.. I think I'll hold off until I've more information.

Thanks for the input.

J.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Sorry I would've linked it but I was on mobile at the time








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HackJoe*
> 
> Where can I see your result? I've continued my search and it appears 'Mayhems Aurora - Extinction Green' was pretty close to what I'm looking for. Maybe the REP could tell me how to recreate it. I very almost bought Yellow+Blue dye & Silver Aurora booster.. I think I'll hold off until I've more information.
> 
> Thanks for the input.
> 
> J.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems welcome Bitspower into into our partnership along side EK and Swiftech, we seemingly are a growing force in the cooling world.


Any more detail regarding it? Will their be an official announcement?


----------



## Mayhem

That is is your announcement and it official... https://www.facebook.com/Mayhems2009/


----------



## HackJoe

Any suggestion how best to recreate 'Mayhems Aurora - Extinction Green' @Mayhem? I'm just waiting for the word before placing an order direct. Many thanks.

J.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Here are 2 build logs where he has two shades of gray in his loops.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1548802/build-log-grey-matter-caselabs-s5-with-a-look-of-s8/400_100
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/build-log-chessboard-sma8/0_100
> 
> These might help.


Thanks for the links! I'll be ordering my red and green dyes soon to start my mad scientist mixing!


----------



## Nichismo

starting to wonder if I should swap out the pastels... I love UV, especially green, and I had gone almost 6 months without using my rig here and it caused some of the coolant to "Settle" a little bit, and so the green took on a slightly transparent color, which actually looked really cool....

either way, I Love Mayhems!!


----------



## Raxus

So I'm looking for a blue coolant for my loop and was considering the blue xt-1 concentrate. Using petg and copper blocks. anything I need to worry about?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raxus*
> 
> So I'm looking for a blue coolant for my loop and was considering the blue xt-1 concentrate. Using petg and copper blocks. anything I need to worry about?


Pretty sure the Concentrates all require Distilled water to make it the right mix. Other Than that, No.

TCO


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raxus*
> 
> So I'm looking for a blue coolant for my loop and was considering the blue xt-1 concentrate. Using petg and copper blocks. anything I need to worry about?


just FYI I got x1 blue concentrate and was kinda disappointed in the color. Compared to the green I also got it was very weak and lightly colored. I've got some pics in my sig but I'll link some when I'm not mobile.

Not saying it isn't great stuff! But you may want to consider adding some dye if you're going for a particular color.

And like tco said, you'll need some distilled water to mix it with but it should play nice with the petg and copper. I had mine running through petg and copper without issue (wasnt a very long time but I'm sure it's good)


----------



## orvils

Last week I upgrade my PC from soft tubing to hard PETG tubing.
While doing this I also got Mayhems X1 Red concentrate.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Everything seemed fine. I went away for 3 days so my PC was not running. When I came back I turned it on and pump was not working. I tested pump with external 12v PSU that I use for filling and it did not work either.
Next morning I took it apart, cleaned everything in it and tested - it worked fine.
I put it back in the system and filled. It worked again. At this point I setup notification in Speedfan to inform if Pump is not working and to turn off the PC if CPU or GPU overheats.
So I was playing Witcher 3 today and I got message that PC will turn off in 1min. Checked temps and GPU was at 67C. Saved game and rebooted pc.
On boot notifications that pump is not working kept spamming.
Tried to run only pump with external PSU but no luck.

Previously I ran only distilled water with kill coil.
Is there any way that Mayhems X1 could have done something to the impeller on the pump? It is DDC pump. When I took it apart it did not look clogged up.
I have another DDC pump so I will replace the pump to see if that helps.
Has anyone experienced something like this?


----------



## 414347

I had similar issue with my Watercool D5 pump and I only run distilled water. It would run 1 day, stop the next. I took it apart and nothing was noticeable all clean.
Watercool Heatkiller send me a replacement and problem is gone. It's an indication that there is internal issue, nothing to do with liquid 90% of the time, even thou your pump might be new, they do go bad more often these days.


----------



## HackJoe

Really struggling to find an answer, I'm looking for the best method to create an 'Nvidia' green aurora coolant. Mayhem used to do a green aurora called 'Extinction Green' on youtube it looks pretty close but on 'frozenCPU' it looks like sludge. I keep making baskets on the Mayhems store and OCUK then at the end of each day bail on purchase as I'm not convinced which will be the better way. So I'm putting it to you guys. Which Method do you think will net me the best result.

METHOD 1:

Aurora 2 Silver 1ltr
Dye Yellow 15ml
Dye Blue 15ml
Add equal drops of both dyes to the silver aurora until green, then add more yellow dye to bring it up to the nvidia hue.

METHOD 2:

Aurora 2 Silver 1ltr
Emerald Green 15ml
Dye Yellow 15ml

Add Emerald Green drop to Aurora silver until green, add yellow to lighten to nvidia hue.

METHOD 3:

Pastel - Mint Green Coolant 1L
2x 10ml Aurora Booster - Silver
Dye Yellow 15ml
Dye Blue 15ml
Add booster to pastel then add yellow/blue until I find correct color.

Anyone else have a suggestion? @Mayhem?

J.


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HackJoe*
> 
> Really struggling to find an answer, I'm looking for the best method to create an 'Nvidia' green aurora coolant. Mayhem used to do a green aurora called 'Extinction Green' on youtube it looks pretty close but on 'frozenCPU' it looks like sludge. I keep making baskets on the Mayhems store and OCUK then at the end of each day bail on purchase as I'm not convinced which will be the better way. So I'm putting it to you guys. Which Method do you think will net me the best result.
> 
> METHOD 1:
> 
> Aurora 2 Silver 1ltr
> Dye Yellow 15ml
> Dye Blue 15ml
> Add equal drops of both dyes to the silver aurora until green, then add more yellow dye to bring it up to the nvidia hue.
> 
> METHOD 2:
> 
> Aurora 2 Silver 1ltr
> Emerald Green 15ml
> Dye Yellow 15ml
> 
> Add Emerald Green drop to Aurora silver until green, add yellow to lighten to nvidia hue.
> 
> METHOD 3:
> 
> Pastel - Mint Green Coolant 1L
> 2x 10ml Aurora Booster - Silver
> Dye Yellow 15ml
> Dye Blue 15ml
> Add booster to pastel then add yellow/blue until I find correct color.
> 
> Anyone else have a suggestion? @Mayhem?
> 
> J.


Hey Joe,

I would go with option 3. Using the Aurora as a base, than dying it doesnt responded the same as a pastel base. Also, use the Aurora booster last.


----------



## HackJoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> Hey Joe,
> 
> I would go with option 3. Using the Aurora as a base, than dying it doesnt responded the same as a pastel base. Also, use the Aurora booster last.


Many thanks, I've followed your suggestion and placed my order with Mayhems. Hopefully it'll get sent out tomorrow and be with me Friday, in time for some mixing fun over the weekend. Fingers crossed I'll kick off the log tomorrow, it'll be in my sig soon after.

J.


----------



## sdrawkcab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I had similar foam after using Blitz part 2 and that was after I have flashed it at least 5-6x 4L= do the math, over 20 L of DI water.
> 
> Blitz is great cleaner and now I use it annually to keep my system sparkle clean, but it needs to be totally gone out of your system and that means you need to run your pumps at full speed for at least 20-30 min each time before flashes, radiators will hold back more of the liquid than you realize and that means some of the blitz could have been still trapped there, especially because is so foamy.
> 
> I remember when blitz first came out and I used it to clean my huge single loop I had flashed it at least 6x 4 Liters of DI after blitzing, yet I still had some similar foam on the top of reservoir, but what you see should go away without harming your coolant, unless there is still good amount of Blitz in radiators.
> 
> Btw. That red is gorges.


If that small amount of foam won't be an issue I will most definitely leave it alone. I was worrying that part 2 would cause a reaction somewhere. If I turn off the loop then a tiny amount floats back up to the top, it's interesting and I've thought about using a paper towel to remove the top layer of foam. I really like how blitz can clean a loop but part 2 is a nightmare to remove.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> If that small amount of foam won't be an issue I will most definitely leave it alone. I was worrying that part 2 would cause a reaction somewhere. If I turn off the loop then a tiny amount floats back up to the top, it's interesting and I've thought about using a paper towel to remove the top layer of foam. I really like how blitz can clean a loop but part 2 is a nightmare to remove.


Funny you mentioning paper towel. I did try to use it to clean some white flakes floating in my reservoir after using Dazmode Protector only to find some particles of that paper towel somehow braking apart and I had more issues removing that.

How good Blitz 2 is....very good and I wish I had prior pictures of my water with Dazmode Protect or PT nuke, it was cloudy after a month, I've been using Mayhems Biocide Extreme for a about 2 years and this water is about close to 4 months old, I'm about to change, but even on the picture it's not as clear as if you look in real time but believe me is as clear as can be, Blitz as a cleaner and Biocide combination with water is truly great, for my next build I might use black oil pastel.






e in description on the bottle


Check this block that used for about 2 years with distilled water and biocide extreme and just before taking apart I used Blitz to shampoo it, it's like brand new and this thing was working hard 24/7 for almost 2 years.
Trick is, you have to remove and that means flash it more than its recommended


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Funny you mentioning paper towel. I did try to use it to clean some white flakes floating in my reservoir after using Dazmode Protector only to find some particles of that paper towel somehow braking apart and I had more issues removing that.
> 
> How good Blitz 2 is....very good and I wish I had prior pictures of my water with Dazmode Protect or PT nuke, it was cloudy after a month, I've been using Mayhems Biocide Extreme for a about 2 years and this water is about close to 4 months old, I'm about to change, but even on the picture it's not as clear as if you look in real time but believe me is as clear as can be, Blitz as a cleaner and Biocide combination with water is truly great, for my next build I might use black oil pastel.
> 
> 
> 
> Check this block that used for about 2 years with distilled water and biocide extreme and just before taking apart I used Blitz to shampoo it, it's like brand new and this thing was working hard 24/7 for almost 2 years.
> Trick is, you have to remove and that means flash it more than its recommended


Wisdom, take notes people!!^^

Man the way those pump tanks are mounted..... pure eye candy!! Great job (a bit off topic, my apologies)


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Wisdom, take notes people!!^^
> 
> Man the way those pump tanks are mounted..... pure eye candy!! Great job (a bit off topic, my apologies)


Thank you


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ok! AURORA UPDATE!!

Aurora was put in loop on 8/20/15

I just Removed it on 6/2/16 (Just shy of a Year)

Particles were all still present, but the color (Probably from not flushing the Rad)



TCO


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ok! AURORA UPDATE!!
> 
> Aurora was put in loop on 8/20/15
> 
> I just Removed it on 6/2/16 (Just shy of a Year)
> 
> Particles were all still present, but the color (Probably from not flushing the Rad)
> 
> TCO


I'm jealous! I haven't gotten more than 4 months out of it yet. Seems like after the particles fade and I stir them back up they disappear much faster than originally.

Out of curiosity, we're you running the pump 24/7?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I'm jealous! I haven't gotten more than 4 months out of it yet. Seems like after the particles fade and I stir them back up they disappear much faster than originally.
> 
> Out of curiosity, we're you running the pump 24/7?


Computer is run just about everyday. Not 24/7 use. More like 12 hours a day for at least 5 days a week.

EDIT: Acutally I could go by my work hours. I work 220 Hours a Month.

The Trick I found in the loop was where my reservoir was. Having a 1/2" to an 1" gap from where the fluid falls in the Res, just picks up a little bit of oxygen to put in the loop (Not Exactly what you want) but moves the particles consistently for as long as you need.

Once you Have the waterline above the Tube in the Res (For your return fluid) then the particles will fall out of suspension very quickly.

TCO


----------



## HackJoe

Hey Guys,

Wanted to report back with an update to my quest for 'Nvidia Green' Aurora coolant. I placed my order for:

Code:



Code:


METHOD 3:
Pastel - Mint Green Coolant 1L
2x 10ml Aurora Booster - Silver
Dye Yellow 15ml
Dye Blue 15ml

Order took two days (as quoted) all arrived well, packed safely. The only thing that struck me was the 'Pastel Mint Green' was infact 'Pastel UV Green'.. On the website product page it's labeled 'Pastel Green' with the imaging showing the product I received, a bottle labeled 'Pastel UV Green' yet the second image showing a 'Pastel - Mint Green' bottle.

So three names for what I'm guessing is all the same? The two images being old and new packaging.. I dunno if the 'mint green' was ever UV? but really, I don't care.

I then poured approx 900ml into a clean clear 1ltr coolant bottle and begun adding drops of yellow dye. ten drops, lid on, shake, repeat... I did that up to 100 drops. Its was getting brighter, less acid, less UV'ish, more yellow green. 100 wasn't enough though, so I repeated the same process. After 200 drops and not looking much different I put the rest of the bottle of dye in (approx another 50 drops).


...

That was after the first 200 drops. Clearly the blue wasn't needed but possibly more yellow is.. (@Mayhem could I swap my unopened blue for another yellow?). Once the yellow ran out I considered the result close enough for now and went about adding the silver aurora booster, both bottles of it.. (haha, then I read on the booster label 'max 10ml per 1ltr). I'd read somewhere a user had put two bottles in his loop and for some silly reason went for it... so maybe there is far too much in the loop now (less than 1ltr total coolant) not that you'd know. silver aurora in a pastel lime yellow green is almost invisible. My flow rate is unreal and sure enough it's there swirling away but really you gotta be inches from the res.


...

I'm in two minds about it now. I'd like to add more yellow, push for a closer match but I fear the aurora effect is lost. I'd posted originally seeking how best to reach my goal. I've fallen short, but it was a good crack trying.

If anyone DOES know how a could make a 'Nvidia Green' aurora coolant I'd love to know. I can't afford another £40 experiment just now but I'm game for the future.

As always, great service buying direct. Great products, highly recommend.

J.


----------



## Deedaz

I think you may want to try X1 with dye instead, with the correct amount of the booster. Would likely be easier to get the desired color and effect. If you really want the pastel, try mixing green and yellow pastel. A whole bottle of dye is kinda excessive.


----------



## HackJoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I think you may want to try X1 with dye instead, with the correct amount of the booster. Would likely be easier to get the desired color and effect. If you really want the pastel, try mixing green and yellow pastel. A whole bottle of dye is kinda excessive.


Would I get away Di-water and Mayhems yellow and blue dyes (create the green) then add the booster then add Mayhem Biocide? It's too costly to start over...

J.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HackJoe*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> Wanted to report back with an update to my quest for 'Nvidia Green' Aurora coolant. I placed my order for:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> METHOD 3:
> Pastel - Mint Green Coolant 1L
> 2x 10ml Aurora Booster - Silver
> Dye Yellow 15ml
> Dye Blue 15ml
> 
> Order took two days (as quoted) all arrived well, packed safely. The only thing that struck me was the 'Pastel Mint Green' was infact 'Pastel UV Green'.. On the website product page it's labeled 'Pastel Green' with the imaging showing the product I received, a bottle labeled 'Pastel UV Green' yet the second image showing a 'Pastel - Mint Green' bottle.
> 
> So three names for what I'm guessing is all the same? The two images being old and new packaging.. I dunno if the 'mint green' was ever UV? but really, I don't care.
> 
> I then poured approx 900ml into a clean clear 1ltr coolant bottle and begun adding drops of yellow dye. ten drops, lid on, shake, repeat... I did that up to 100 drops. Its was getting brighter, less acid, less UV'ish, more yellow green. 100 wasn't enough though, so I repeated the same process. After 200 drops and not looking much different I put the rest of the bottle of dye in (approx another 50 drops).
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> That was after the first 200 drops. Clearly the blue wasn't needed but possibly more yellow is.. (@Mayhem could I swap my unopened blue for another yellow?). Once the yellow ran out I considered the result close enough for now and went about adding the silver aurora booster, both bottles of it.. (haha, then I read on the booster label 'max 10ml per 1ltr). I'd read somewhere a user had put two bottles in his loop and for some silly reason went for it... so maybe there is far too much in the loop now (less than 1ltr total coolant) not that you'd know. silver aurora in a pastel lime yellow green is almost invisible. My flow rate is unreal and sure enough it's there swirling away but really you gotta be inches from the res.
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> I'm in two minds about it now. I'd like to add more yellow, push for a closer match but I fear the aurora effect is lost. I'd posted originally seeking how best to reach my goal. I've fallen short, but it was a good crack trying.
> 
> If anyone DOES know how a could make a 'Nvidia Green' aurora coolant I'd love to know. I can't afford another £40 experiment just now but I'm game for the future.
> 
> As always, great service buying direct. Great products, highly recommend.
> 
> J.


Yeh you can swap it out, contact [email protected] and they will help you out. Ill let them know the email is coming.

Mick


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HackJoe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I think you may want to try X1 with dye instead, with the correct amount of the booster. Would likely be easier to get the desired color and effect. If you really want the pastel, try mixing green and yellow pastel. A whole bottle of dye is kinda excessive.
> 
> 
> 
> Would I get away Di-water and Mayhems yellow and blue dyes (create the green) then add the booster then add Mayhem Biocide? It's too costly to start over...
> 
> J.
Click to expand...

Distilled will work, but the X1 is pretty cheap and includes the biocide/corrosion inhibitor. Also, you could start with a green base and not need the green dye.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Flex UV White None Leaching tubing. Based on the same formula of our clear tubing and doesn't leave a powdery residue (known and found in other manufacturers tubing).


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems "Notorious" 360 Liquid cooling starter kit. Preview



Mayhems "Notorious" Liquid cooling starter Kits take all the best products and present them at a ultra Low starter kit price. RRP info coming soon (once we find a box big enough to fit it all in)


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Mayhems "Notorious" 360 Liquid cooling starter kit. Preview



Quote:


> Mayhems "Notorious" Liquid cooling starter Kits take all the best products and present them at a ultra Low starter kit price. RRP info coming soon (once we find a box big enough to fit it allin


Looks sweet









What is included in it, more specifically the 3 small bottles, are this dyes and Biocide?


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems "Notorious" 360 Liquid cooling starter kit. RRP £179.00 (this is the kit we will be retailing). Mayhems "Notorious" Liquid cooling starter Kits takes all the best products and present them at a ultra low starter kit price. More info coming soon (once we find a box big enough to fit it all in)

Included in the kit

1 x Mayhems Quad pass Havoc 360mm Rad (60mm thick)
1 x EK-XRES 100 SPC-60 MX PWM (pump/res)
6 x Compression fittings
2 x Meters of Mayhems Ultra Clear Tubing
3 x 120mm Nidec - Gentle Typhoon Performance Radiator Fan - 1850rpm, 58cfm
1 x Mayhems Blitz kit "Part 2" with gloves
3 x 15mls Mayhems Red, Blue and UV Laser Green dyes
1 x 1 Ltr of Mayhems X1 Clear
1 x Lian Li CPU AMD / Intel CPU block

-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Mayhems "Notorious" 240 Liquid cooling starter kit. RRP £159.00 (this is the kit we will be retailing). Mayhems "Notorious" Liquid cooling starter Kits takes all the best products and present them at a ultra low starter kit price. More info coming soon (once we find a box big enough to fit it all in)

Included in the kit

1 x Mayhems Quad pass Havoc 240mm Rad (60mm thick)
1 x EK-XRES 100 SPC-60 MX PWM (pump/res)
6 x Compression fittings
2 x Meters of Mayhems Ultra Clear Tubing
2 x 120mm Nidec - Gentle Typhoon Performance Radiator Fan - 1850rpm, 58cfm
1 x Mayhems Blitz kit "Part 2" with gloves
3 x 15ml Mayhems Red, Blue and UV Laser Green dyes
1 x 1 Ltr of Mayhems X1 Clear
1 x Lian Li CPU AMD / Intel CPU block

=-=-=-=-=-=-

The "Notorious" 240 Kit can cool a high end i7 (quad / hex) + 980 TI easily (tested) the "Notorious" 360 Kit for multiple GPU cards. Both kits out perform any thing equivalent at the price range on the market and make AIO's look pants. We will also swap out if requested the tubing and dyes for Mayhems UV White tubing.

The "Notorious" 240 Kit can cool a high end i7 (quad / hex) + 980 TI easily (tested) the "Notorious" 360 Kit for multiple GPU cards. Both kits out perform any thing equivalent at the price range on the market and make AIO's look pants. We will also swap out if requested the tubing and dyes for Mayhems UV White tubing.

Limited availability and only though Mayhems very own store. www.mayhems.co.uk, Mayhems "Notorious" kit will not be offed though retailers.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Not a bad price on that kit


----------



## viperguy212

Hey all,

I'm looking to put together my loop in a few weeks and will likely use Pastel Red or Deep Red for my fluid color.

With that being said I'm looking to clean out my radiators now (ahead of time) while I wait for some parts. I obviously found the Bltiz kit as potential effective option to clean out the two radiators but my concern is the time frame.... Could I clean out my rads using part one now and then (say in 3 weeks) run part 2 through my whole system, flush, then fill?

My procedure would be something like this:

Clean rads with part 1 (follow directions including step 7 flushing)
Wait 3 weeks for parts
Assemble brand new loop (all new parts)
Fill with destilled water to test loop for leaks (can I maybe do this with Part 2?)
(If Part 2 not used previously) Drain and fill with part 2, run for under 24hrs
Drain
Fill with pastel/dye fluids
Thanks for the clarification, its my first loop and I want to get it right from the start!


----------



## Mayhem

No its best to run part one then dilute down part two with warm water (1/2 the normal documented ratio) and nutrilze the acid afterwards. Do not do a acid flush then leave it, it may do more harm than good.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

A Little Blueberry this time around












TCO


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No its best to run part one then dilute down part two with warm water (1/2 the normal documented ratio) and nutrilze the acid afterwards. Do not do a acid flush then leave it, it may do more harm than good.


Thanks for the reply. I'll likely just clean them out with normal hot distilled water for now and when closer to the build date run parts 1 and 2.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

TCO


----------



## Raxus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> just FYI I got x1 blue concentrate and was kinda disappointed in the color. Compared to the green I also got it was very weak and lightly colored. I've got some pics in my sig but I'll link some when I'm not mobile.
> 
> Not saying it isn't great stuff! But you may want to consider adding some dye if you're going for a particular color.
> 
> And like tco said, you'll need some distilled water to mix it with but it should play nice with the petg and copper. I had mine running through petg and copper without issue (wasnt a very long time but I'm sure it's good)


I have been reading Ethylene Glycol is not a good idea with PETG, XT-1 contains Ethylene Glycol. Should I be concerned?


----------



## HackJoe

Finished this last night, in time for the GTX 1070 release. The green worked out well in the end. Took another 5-7ml of yellow dye so all in all, 900ml pastel green, 17-18ml yellow dye and two bottles of silver booster (this was a mistake... too much, not that you can see it anyway).


...

...

...

...

...

I'm gonna run it, as is, for a couple months. But I've every intention of draining, blitzing, then moving to Mayhem Yellow Green X1 with a silver Aurora.

Build log and plenty more photos HERE.

J.


----------



## Raxus

can anyone tell me what coolants are absolutely safe to use with PETG hard line tubing? I'm getting conflicting information everywhere. thanks in advance


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raxus*
> 
> I have been reading Ethylene Glycol is not a good idea with PETG, XT-1 contains Ethylene Glycol. Should I be concerned?


yes, as far as I know XT-1 will cause issues with petg, I'm not sure what will happen or when though. It could just be cloudy tubing or it could weaken it and cause major leakage problems. Mayhems X-1 is glycerin based and should be fine with no issues, I used it for a few months with my petg and had NO issues at all


----------



## Raxus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> yes, as far as I know XT-1 will cause issues with petg, I'm not sure what will happen or when though. It could just be cloudy tubing or it could weaken it and cause major leakage problems. Mayhems X-1 is glycerin based and should be fine with no issues, I used it for a few months with my petg and had NO issues at all


I only had it running in the system a week. so hopefully thats not long enough to cause any issues.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raxus*
> 
> I only had it running in the system a week. so hopefully thats not long enough to cause any issues.


I would IMAGINE that it wouldn't be a huge deal if you thoroughly rinsed everything after just a week of contact but I really can't be certain.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems "Notorious" 240 Liquid cooling starter kit. RRP £159.00, Mayhems "Notorious" Liquid cooling starter Kits takes all the best products and present them at a ultra low starter kit price. More info coming soon

Included in the kit

1 x Mayhems Quad pass Havoc 240mm Rad (60mm thick)
1 x EK-XRES 100 SPC-60 MX PWM (pump/res)
6 x Compression fittings
2 x Meters of Mayhems Ultra Clear Tubing
2 x 120mm Nidec - Gentle Typhoon Performance Radiator Fan - 1850rpm, 58cfm
1 x Mayhems Blitz kit "Part 2" with gloves
3 x 15ml Mayhems Red, Blue and UV Laser Green dyes
1 x 1 Ltr of Mayhems X1 Clear
1 x Lian Li CPU AMD / Intel CPU block

More updates and new products coming from us soon.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

So i got home earlier this week after being out of town for nearly a month. To my surprise my loop looked like this after sitting for a month.





Is this UV damage, life, or both? One side of my rig was exposed to indirect sunlight during this time after someone stopped by and decided to open up the blinds after i left. I'm using mayhems pastel extreme mixed with 2.5L of distilled water and 2 bottles of mayhems non stain blue dye. It appears to be damaged pastel that fell out of suspension during that time and was exposed to sunlight. However in the bottom left corner of the gpu block it looks like algae. Its much greener than the picture shows and it seems to be spreading. I find that a bit odd since the pastel extreme has growth inhibitors in it. The rest of the loop that was not exposed to sunlight is fine. Everything works great and cools great. Obviously i need to clean it and change the fluid, i'm just curious if that is life growing in there or not? If so, why is it there? Does UV exposure break down the growth inhibitors?

Btw, i know the block(s) needs cleaning. Those are fibers from paper towels which were used around fittings to soak up excess fluid while i was dismantling the loop a couple months ago. Those paper towels were particularly bad with shedding fibers and i didn't clean out the fittings.


----------



## Raxus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I would IMAGINE that it wouldn't be a huge deal if you thoroughly rinsed everything after just a week of contact but I really can't be certain.


I ran about 2 gallons of distilled water through the loop


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raxus*
> 
> I ran about 2 gallons of distilled water through the loop


if it were me I'd probably replace the tubing. But I've only got one bend in my petg and the rest are straight runs between fittings I still have the measurements written down so it'd literally take me an hour. If I had to rebend everything I'd probably just keep a really close eye on it but I don't have any info to base that on so I feel kinda bad even saying it


----------



## Raxus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> if it were me I'd probably replace the tubing. But I've only got one bend in my petg and the rest are straight runs between fittings I still have the measurements written down so it'd literally take me an hour. If I had to rebend everything I'd probably just keep a really close eye on it but I don't have any info to base that on so I feel kinda bad even saying it


From what I've read it depends on what company you ask. Some say don't mix petg and eg, some say it doesn't matter. I can only find one reported incident of a tube "melting" to a cpu block, but apparently his pump was also dead. I flushed it and order some mayhems x1


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ok! AURORA UPDATE!!
> 
> Aurora was put in loop on 8/20/15
> 
> I just Removed it on 6/2/16 (Just shy of a Year)
> 
> Particles were all still present, but the color (Probably from not flushing the Rad)
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I could have sworn that it was red when you put it in.


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Besides drying out, will it clog up any of my blocks, and radiators?


I'm going to go with no. From my experience its only the nano particle junk (pastel) and aurora that tends to fall out of suspension and gunk things up.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raxus*
> 
> From what I've read it depends on what company you ask. Some say don't mix petg and eg, some say it doesn't matter. I can only find one reported incident of a tube "melting" to a cpu block, but apparently his pump was also dead. I flushed it and order some mayhems x1


yeah I saw that "incident" and noticed that they lots of people tried blame it on petg... your pump wasn't working dude... I do get it though, ideally equipment would hit thermal shutdown before melting your tubing, I'm not sure if petg would or not in most cases. I do believe acrylic wouldn't deform under those circumstances though since that stuff takes heat like a champion. If I can find 14mm acrylic next time I need tubing I'll probably make the jump


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> I'm going to go with no. From my experience its only the nano particle junk (pastel) and aurora that tends to fall out of suspension and gunk things up.


Turning your pump up high an building a low restriction loop fixes this tbh.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> I could have sworn that it was red when you put it in.


Lmao, it "was" . Running just distilled now. Might go red pastel

TCO


----------



## Mayhem

2 New dyes




UV Clear Ice Blue
UV Clear Sky blue

Dev'ed formula over at Mayhems and does not fade under cheap UV leds lights and have a much wider spectrum for UV Lights.


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 2 New dyes
> 
> UV Clear Ice Blue
> UV Clear Sky blue
> 
> Dev'ed formula over at Mayhems and does not fade under cheap UV leds lights and have a much wider spectrum for UV Lights.


Any pictures of new dyes in water?


----------



## Mayhem

None Stain UV Clear Sky Blue in a glass tubing with UV black light (has a tinge of green to it)



None Stain UV Clear Ice Blue in a glass tubing with UV black light


----------



## Touge180SX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> None Stain UV Clear Sky Blue in a glass tubing with UV black light (has a tinge of green to it)


Sweet, thanks!


----------



## Mayhem

New improved Dyes now rolling out across the whole colour range. Mayhems has been working hard on our new formulas for quite some time and now we have all the final ingredients on hand and the new formula is all done and dusted. We will roll them into the new coolants and products for yet another improvement.

When you use the new dyes you find they disperse in a system much faster and easier and even some are much stronger than before.

They also fix some past issues users have picked up on


----------



## LandonAaron

How often do I need to change the fluid in my loop? I have been running Mayhem x1 Clear Concentrate + Distilled Water for about 14 months now. This weekend I was doing some work on my computer and I noticed what may be algae growth in the top portion of my reservoir where there is usually air. Also my video card has a plexi block and and it didn't look too good either. Nothing green like in the reservoir, just kind of cloudy looking like some gunk is starting to accumulate there.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Normally every 12months on x1 from what I was told


----------



## LandonAaron

Here are some pics of the reservoir.




Is that algae? It looks kinda green. But wouldn't algea be growing in the part that's underwater. I just topped of the reservoir this weekend, but up until then the reservoir was only filled up to the point where the gunk starts. That was all above water. Maybe it some sort of leeching from the tubing that just floated up to the highest point and got deposited there?


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Is that algae? It looks kinda green. But wouldn't algea be growing in the part that's underwater. I just topped of the reservoir this weekend, but up until then the reservoir was only filled up to the point where the gunk starts. That was all above water. Maybe it some sort of leeching from the tubing that just floated up to the highest point and got deposited there?


Actually, algae will grow anywhere, even above water whatever there is slight sign of moisture and it can be brown or green, it's hard to say what that is.
I've seen somewhere at overclockers.net similar type of staff and it was from the tubing (plasticizer)
Tbh. I wouldn't leave my loop running any liquid for longer than 6-8 MAX months, that is long, it's the best and healthier time frame for your system and its components.


----------



## septro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> New improved Dyes now rolling out across the whole colour range. Mayhems has been working hard on our new formulas for quite some time and now we have all the final ingredients on hand and the new formula is all done and dusted. We will roll them into the new coolants and products for yet another improvement.
> 
> When you use the new dyes you find they disperse in a system much faster and easier and even some are much stronger than before.
> 
> They also fix some past issues users have picked up on


Oh sheesh - this is great 'n all but damn I just bought 3 liters of Mayhems Pastel Red for a build next month.

#badtiming


----------



## Mayhem

Change X1 out every 9 to 12 months.
Change pastel out every 1 to 3 years ** dependent on regular maintenance.
Change XT-1 out every 9 to 12 months

regular maintenance means flush and clean your system. A water cooling system is a ecosystem and needs cleaning now and then. just because some one else runs a system for 5 years doesn't mean yours will last that long. Prevention is better than cure.
.


----------



## Raxus

So at this point i'm guess in X1 and pastel is safe to use with PETG hard tubing. Xt-1 and other alcohol based coolants arent?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raxus*
> 
> So at this point i'm guess in X1 and pastel is safe to use with PETG hard tubing. Xt-1 and other alcohol based coolants arent?


Correct.


----------



## meson1

There's no such thing as a metallic coloured fluid, is there? (Not Aurora). Something like gold or copper coloured pastel sort of thing?


----------



## sorany

anyone ever made a pastel + ocean blue mix? trying to get a feel for the color you could achieve without dropping $60 on fluids.


----------



## Interstate

Actually I have a few years ago. It's pastel white with ocean blue.


----------



## muzammil84

that was my pastel white with blue dye.


----------



## muzammil84

I'm after some nice and rich pastel purple but Mayhems pastel purple looks nothing like...purple? has any one used that fluid?how does it look in real life? is it more purpleish than on Mayhems website pics?
If I had to make my custom purple/violet what is the best way to achieve it? Pastel purple with some pink/red/orange dye? or pastel pink with some blue dye?
any pics would be highly appreciated.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Transplanted build, used EK Evo coolant and Mayhems Red dye:


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> New improved Dyes now rolling out across the whole colour range. Mayhems has been working hard on our new formulas for quite some time and now we have all the final ingredients on hand and the new formula is all done and dusted. We will roll them into the new coolants and products for yet another improvement.
> 
> When you use the new dyes you find they disperse in a system much faster and easier and even some are much stronger than before.
> 
> They also fix some past issues users have picked up on


What's unique about the new dyes?
Some of my friends who tired Mayhem's dyes are now avoiding using it due to the fact the dye is breaking up and clogging the system. That's what they say, I haven't seen it myself.
I'm actually thinking of using DW with 10% PEG car coolant, but that means I cannot really choose colours. So I'm interested to learn what's the story with the new dyes.


----------



## DarthBaggins

The dyes don't break down from my experience, more than likely they were having plasticizing issues


----------



## 414347

Dyes don't break, there isn't much to break, in fact plasticizer is the issue if you use soft tubing and even PETG has some properties that if you leave way to long will start to leach, acrylic is the only way to avoid any possible issues I know PETG is the thing today, but I will choose acrylic over PETG any time I know this wasn't asked but here is my $.5


----------



## Gil80

What about Mayhem's Pastel White Extreme?
Does this break? can this clog the loop?


----------



## 414347

I can see pastel more prompt to clog some parts of your loop components but that might, big maybe if you leave your PC off for days or even weeks otherwise the only thing I've seen its color change and that might...maybe could happen months down the road, its common thing, its unavoidable, but some getaway for months or even a year or longer.

Blitz your system before and you should be fine. My nephew is using sunset yellow if that's the appropriate name, but he's been running for about 5-7 hrs per day for almost 9 months and it looks still identical to what it looked then but he blitz rads and then the whole system prior and now he is very happy.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> *I can see pastel more prompt to clog some parts of your loop components* but that might, big maybe if you leave your PC off for days or even weeks otherwise the only thing I've seen its color change and that might...maybe could happen months down the road, its common thing, its unavoidable, but some getaway for months or even a year or longer.
> 
> Blitz your system before and you should be fine. My nephew is using sunset yellow if that's the appropriate name, but he's been running for about 5-7 hrs per day for almost 9 months and it looks still identical to what it looked then but he blitz rads and then the whole system prior and now he is very happy.


I disagree, I see no reason how pastel would clog anything. It is not clay. Just a thicker version of a dye.

TCO


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I can see pastel more prompt to clog some parts of your loop components but that might, big maybe if you leave your PC off for days or even weeks otherwise the only thing I've seen its color change and that might...maybe could happen months down the road, its common thing, its unavoidable, but some getaway for months or even a year or longer.
> 
> Blitz your system before and you should be fine. My nephew is using sunset yellow if that's the appropriate name, but he's been running for about 5-7 hrs per day for almost 9 months and it looks still identical to what it looked then but he blitz rads and then the whole system prior and now he is very happy.


I live in Australia where I cannot get hold of the pro kit of the blitz. only the basic kit. I will use it for sure to clean the system.

The other question I have is, since again, I live in Australia, I can only find Mayhem's XT-1 UV Blue 250ml bottle. Can I add Mayhem's non-stain blue dye to it?


----------



## Mayhem

Go direct to mayhems store (sorry cannot post the link my self) or PPC or any other re seller will ship world wide.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Go direct to mayhems store (sorry cannot post the link my self) or PPC or any other re seller will ship world wide.


Thanks.
If it's for the Blitz Pro, I think it's banned to be imported to Australia and that is why only the basic (non acidic) is available. I wonder if there's a substitute I can use for acidic









Either way, the shipping costs + currency exchange are too much for me to afford.
I tried to add two bottles on checkout at Mayhem's website, but I can't see how to update the quantity. Regardless, I'm afraid to see the shipping cost and exchange rate from GBP to AUD.

For the XT-1 UV Blue How exactly can I measure how much to put in 1 litre of distilled water? is it 100ml per 1L or 50ml per 1L? and can it be used with non-stain blue dye?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Thanks.
> If it's for the Blitz Pro, I think it's banned to be imported to Australia and that is why only the basic (non acidic) is available. I wonder if there's a substitute I can use for acidic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either way, the shipping costs + currency exchange are too much for me to afford.
> I tried to add two bottles on checkout at Mayhem's website, but I can't see how to update the quantity. Regardless, I'm afraid to see the shipping cost and exchange rate from GBP to AUD.
> 
> For the XT-1 UV Blue How exactly can I measure how much to put in 1 litre of distilled water? is it 100ml per 1L or 50ml per 1L? and can it be used with non-stain blue dye?


 You can used White vinegar (make sure to dilute it) to act as the acidic portion of the kit. The Basic is just that, a highly basic flush to level out the pH in the loop/rads so not discoloration or un wanted particles contaminate the loop.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I disagree, I see no reason how pastel would clog anything. It is not clay. Just a thicker version of a dye.
> 
> TCO


And you might be right







, that's why I didn't say it will or it won't.. I only made my comment in compressing to ONLY dye considering that pastel has more to it.


----------



## Kranik

Hey guys, looking for some help attaining a certain shade. I've got a bottle of Pastel Blueberry and I'm trying to get a shade of blue very similar to MDPC-X Aquamarine. It's a turquoise-ish shade and I'm not sure what to mix in to get there. Any advice? Apologies if this has been asked, this is a large thread, hahaha.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Hey guys, looking for some help attaining a certain shade. I've got a bottle of Pastel Blueberry and I'm trying to get a shade of blue very similar to MDPC-X Aquamarine. It's a turquoise-ish shade and I'm not sure what to mix in to get there. Any advice? Apologies if this has been asked, this is a large thread, hahaha.


I think emerald green with couple of drops of blue dye would be the easiest way to achieve it.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Hey guys, looking for some help attaining a certain shade. I've got a bottle of Pastel Blueberry and I'm trying to get a shade of blue very similar to MDPC-X Aquamarine. It's a turquoise-ish shade and I'm not sure what to mix in to get there. Any advice? Apologies if this has been asked, this is a large thread, hahaha.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Maybe some of the ocean blue dye?


----------



## Kranik

Ooh, that's not a bad idea. I wonder how the ocean blue will play off the blueberry shade though.


----------



## greg1184

Does the aurora silver booster last? Or is it like the other Aurora coolants. I was going to a green build and was thinking of getting the pastel green and silver booster.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> Does the aurora silver booster last? Or is it like the other Aurora coolants. I was going to a green build and was thinking of getting the pastel green and silver booster.


i don't know how it would look in pastel, im not sure if ive ever seen it. I used it with x1 blue and x1 green though and got about4 months out of the loops before i started seeing fade. I could've tried harder to keep it going but i was itching for a rebuild


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> New improved Dyes now rolling out across the whole colour range. Mayhems has been working hard on our new formulas for quite some time and now we have all the final ingredients on hand and the new formula is all done and dusted. We will roll them into the new coolants and products for yet another improvement.
> 
> When you use the new dyes you find they disperse in a system much faster and easier and even some are much stronger than before.
> 
> They also fix some past issues users have picked up on


Are we ever going to get the colored Pastel Extremes?


----------



## septro

Is there a new labeling or new product line name that will distinguish the improved dyes?


----------



## eaglesfan398

What is the process for mixing the pastel concentrate? I was under the impression just add distilled water but after reading I saw that its not the same as di water. what route should I follow to mix the concentrate successfully so it doesn't go bad after a while?


----------



## greg1184

I am in the process of changing the color scheme of my tower. Absolutely love the pastel green. My favorite color coolant by far.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglesfan398*
> 
> What is the process for mixing the pastel concentrate? I was under the impression just add distilled water but after reading I saw that its not the same as di water. what route should I follow to mix the concentrate successfully so it doesn't go bad after a while?


Some people don't have access to distilled for whatever reason so they will use deionized. For watercooling, distilled and deionized are interchangeable but use distilled if you have it.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Some people don't have access to distilled for whatever reason so they will use deionized. For watercooling, distilled and deionized are interchangeable but use distilled if you have it.


Only seems to be america where you can buy it in 5 litre bottles for like $1 here in the UK we have to specially buy it in and doesn't make any sense to do so when de-ionised water is so readily available.


----------



## Iceman2733

Anyone have any Pastel Red 3liters of it they don't need let a fellow water cooler know. I been watching PPCS for it to come back in stock but they been out of stock for awhile. I can't wait any longer lol a man must have his Pastel Red lol


----------



## rolldog

I need a little advice and a little input deciding on my lighting with the Mayhems coolant I'm going to use in my new build. Overall, my build is blue and white. I'm setting up 2 loops and all acrylic tubing (one loop I was thinking of using UV blue/clear coolant and the other loop using UV White coolant). I was thinking about lighting everything with UV lighting. I bought some of the Monsoon LED stop fittings and was going to add UV LEDs where I could to shine into the tubing. Both of my GPUs both have acrylic waterblocks with room for 2 3mm LEDs on each one. I bought some of the Darkside UV strips to help with the overall lighting, but I'd like to find some bright individual LEDs to light up the GPUs so the coolant can be seen running through. If anyone knows of the brightness individual UV LEDs, please let me know.

Another thought I had was to use white LED lighting everywhere with blue and white pastel colored coolant in each loop, but I'm not sure how much light would penetrate the pastel coolant, especially with the LED stop fittings, so they might not even be necessary. I could use white LEDs to light specific places in my case, and in the GPU waterblocks and my acrylic pump top so thee pastel coolant can be seen better. Also, all of my fans either have blue LEDs or white LEDs, but I've set them up with a switch so I can turn all the fan LEDs off while the fan continues to run.

I'm really on the fence about this. I've looked through numerous builds but still can't decide what to do. Hopefully, someone who's worked with builds with these types of lighting can chime in since I'm at a stopping point until I make a decision. This may seem anal, but after putting in a as many hours on this build that I have, I want everything to be perfect.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I need a little advice and a little input deciding on my lighting with the Mayhems coolant I'm going to use in my new build. Overall, my build is blue and white. I'm setting up 2 loops and all acrylic tubing (one loop I was thinking of using UV blue/clear coolant and the other loop using UV White coolant). I was thinking about lighting everything with UV lighting. I bought some of the Monsoon LED stop fittings and was going to add UV LEDs where I could to shine into the tubing. Both of my GPUs both have acrylic waterblocks with room for 2 3mm LEDs on each one. I bought some of the Darkside UV strips to help with the overall lighting, but I'd like to find some bright individual LEDs to light up the GPUs so the coolant can be seen running through. If anyone knows of the brightness individual UV LEDs, please let me know.
> 
> Another thought I had was to use white LED lighting everywhere with blue and white pastel colored coolant in each loop, but I'm not sure how much light would penetrate the pastel coolant, especially with the LED stop fittings, so they might not even be necessary. I could use white LEDs to light specific places in my case, and in the GPU waterblocks and my acrylic pump top so thee pastel coolant can be seen better. Also, all of my fans either have blue LEDs or white LEDs, but I've set them up with a switch so I can turn all the fan LEDs off while the fan continues to run.
> 
> I'm really on the fence about this. I've looked through numerous builds but still can't decide what to do. Hopefully, someone who's worked with builds with these types of lighting can chime in since I'm at a stopping point until I make a decision. This may seem anal, but after putting in a as many hours on this build that I have, I want everything to be perfect.


Hi, I've used single 5mm leds in few builds. I used both, uv and white. Good thing is you can point them anywhere you want and they are dirt cheap but the light beam is a bit narrow so you need few of them in your case and they need to be soldered to molex connector. Uv ones are quite nice, output light is almost invisible so they won't change the color of your case to purple but the uv effect is quite strong at the same time. I usually solder 5 of them with one molex connector, 10(2 sets) will,be plenty for standard size case.
I haven't got many good pics but hopefully this will help you deciding:








and now using 4 leds in the bottom of reservoir(d5 top), sorry only one picture:


----------



## eastexas

Nice builds


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I need a little advice and a little input deciding on my lighting with the Mayhems coolant I'm going to use in my new build. Overall, my build is blue and white. I'm setting up 2 loops and all acrylic tubing (one loop I was thinking of using UV blue/clear coolant and the other loop using UV White coolant). I was thinking about lighting everything with UV lighting. I bought some of the Monsoon LED stop fittings and was going to add UV LEDs where I could to shine into the tubing. Both of my GPUs both have acrylic waterblocks with room for 2 3mm LEDs on each one. I bought some of the Darkside UV strips to help with the overall lighting, but I'd like to find some bright individual LEDs to light up the GPUs so the coolant can be seen running through. If anyone knows of the brightness individual UV LEDs, please let me know.
> 
> Another thought I had was to use white LED lighting everywhere with blue and white pastel colored coolant in each loop, but I'm not sure how much light would penetrate the pastel coolant, especially with the LED stop fittings, so they might not even be necessary. I could use white LEDs to light specific places in my case, and in the GPU waterblocks and my acrylic pump top so thee pastel coolant can be seen better. Also, all of my fans either have blue LEDs or white LEDs, but I've set them up with a switch so I can turn all the fan LEDs off while the fan continues to run.
> 
> I'm really on the fence about this. I've looked through numerous builds but still can't decide what to do. Hopefully, someone who's worked with builds with these types of lighting can chime in since I'm at a stopping point until I make a decision. This may seem anal, but after putting in a as many hours on this build that I have, I want everything to be perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, I've used single 5mm leds in few builds. I used both, uv and white. Good thing is you can point them anywhere you want and they are dirt cheap but the light beam is a bit narrow so you need few of them in your case and they need to be soldered to molex connector. Uv ones are quite nice, output light is almost invisible so they won't change the color of your case to purple but the uv effect is quite strong at the same time. I usually solder 5 of them with one molex connector, 10(2 sets) will,be plenty for standard size case.
> I haven't got many good pics but hopefully this will help you deciding:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and now using 4 leds in the bottom of reservoir(d5 top), sorry only one picture:
Click to expand...

I'm kinda leaning towards white LEDs now, after thinking about it more, with blue pastel in one loop and white pastel in the other loop. I have everything in a Caselabs TH10A, and I just bought a new MB, an Asus X99 Deluxe II, which Las some LED lighting on it, supposedly. I'll probably not use my acrylic chipset waterblock or my VRM waterblock since it looks like some of the LEDs are in the heatsink for the chipset. I have my 2 reservoirs mounted to a sheet of fluorescent blue acrylic, and I've drilled holes into the sides to insert LEDs, which create a blue glow behind my reservoirs.

From my experience working with UV, every UV light has a slightly different Hue to it and you end up needing many more to get the effect you're looking for. I thought about using both in different places, because I've installed 2 switches in a 120mm top for my case which I've hooked up to turn all the LEDs in my fans off. So using the switches and the 2 pin PCBs with 2 pin LEDs I could create 2 different looks. Where I want the most light is in my GPU waterblocks, so you can see the coolant flowing through them.

I'm just so indecisive. I guess I should look through some build logs.

Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk


----------



## ezzdwag

Dose anyone have some photos of Mayhems X1 UV Purple in action i can't seem to find any on Google.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezzdwag*
> 
> Dose anyone have some photos of Mayhems X1 UV Purple in action i can't seem to find any on Google.


I've made my own purple by mixing pastel uv pink with few drops of blue dye. Uv effect is very weak comparing to previous pastel uv green or pastel uv white. Premixedpasteuv purple might be stronger but I wouldn't expect it to be, the color is too dark.


----------



## meson1

If I wanted to go for a copper coloured fluid, how do you think I could go about making it? (i.e. pastel style solid colour, but not Aurora).


----------



## devsfan1830

I just learned that Mayhems makes their own soft tubing. It comes out to half the cost of the Advanced LRT that I have been using for my Pastel White coolant for a couple years now. Anyone use the mayhems tubing and have any thoughts on it? I found this review (http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/05/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/5/) and actually seems to well demonstrate the yellowing my tubing gets or even inherently has and was wondering if anyone else has experienced similar results.


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> I just learned that Mayhems makes their own soft tubing. It comes out to half the cost of the Advanced LRT that I have been using for my Pastel White coolant for a couple years now. Anyone use the mayhems tubing and have any thoughts on it? I found this review (http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/05/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/5/) and actually seems to well demonstrate the yellowing my tubing gets or even inherently has and was wondering if anyone else has experienced similar results.


I did use the Mayhems 3/8"-5/8" and i'm very very happy with it! It's also easy to install on the barb and to secure the compression ring compared to the Primo


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> I did use the Mayhems 3/8"-5/8" and i'm very very happy with it! It's also easy to install on the barb and to secure the compression ring compared to the Primo


Thanks! Yeah screwing a compression fitting onto the LRT turns my fingers raw as they slip on the fitting when I'm trying to wrench it around the tubing. From what I'm reasing the Mayhems is far more pliable.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> I just learned that Mayhems makes their own soft tubing. It comes out to half the cost of the Advanced LRT that I have been using for my Pastel White coolant for a couple years now. Anyone use the mayhems tubing and have any thoughts on it? I found this review (http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/05/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/5/) and actually seems to well demonstrate the yellowing my tubing gets or even inherently has and was wondering if anyone else has experienced similar results.







used it with Mayhems pastel uv white. After few months of usi g no signs of dulling, yellowing and hardening whatsoever. Tubing is super cheap and great quality, someone actually has made over a year old testing using Primoflex and Mayhems tubing and Mayhems turned out to be much better product.
Keep in mind it has very slight bluish tint, it seems to fade out over time.


----------



## 0ldChicken

@devsfan1830 it is great stuff! Way more flexible and just generally easier to work with. I couldn't ever tell the difference between the two visually if i was using a colored fluid, and i did have to use some of each in one loop of mine.
Mayhem's clear and ek ZMT are the only soft tubing ill probably ever need


----------



## Touge180SX

I'll fourth that on the Mayhem's tubing. I am using 1/2 3/4 and love it!


----------



## Gil80

The Primo advanced LRT is crap. I used it twice and both time it gets cloudy and is leaching. This is due to my build getting to water temps of ~45c because I run two r9 290 OC and Ivy bridge @ 4.7Ghz as well and that my case is in a bit air restricted place.

marketing wise, Primoflex branded tubing doesn't say at what temps the tube will start leaching.
But I believe Mayhems tubing to be produced without the substance that causes the leaching. I'm actually rebuilding my rig with Mayhems ultra clear tubing... see how it goes


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> The Primo advanced LRT is crap. I used it twice and both time it gets cloudy and is leaching. This is due to my build getting to water temps of ~45c because I run two r9 290 OC and Ivy bridge @ 4.7Ghz as well and that my case is in a bit air restricted place.
> 
> marketing wise, Primoflex branded tubing doesn't say at what temps the tube will start leaching.
> But I believe Mayhems tubing to be produced without the substance that causes the leaching. I'm actually rebuilding my rig with Mayhems ultra clear tubing... see how it goes


Advanced LRT doesn't leech at those temps, I used it in my AMD build which was a lot hotter than that. It shouldn't leech at all, have you found it clogging the channels of your water blocks? It going cloudy isn't leeching btw, my mayhems tubing has hazed slightly but B Neg himself has said all rubber tubing will haze over time no mater who makes it, the only way to stay clear is to go PETG or Acrylic or the best, Glass.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Advanced LRT doesn't leech at those temps, I used it in my AMD build which was a lot hotter than that. It shouldn't leech at all, have you found it clogging the channels of your water blocks? It going cloudy isn't leeching btw, my mayhems tubing has hazed slightly but B Neg himself has said all rubber tubing will haze over time no mater who makes it, the only way to stay clear is to go PETG or Acrylic or the best, Glass.


What's PETG? sorry for noob questions. is it hard tubing?

It got cloudy but I also have white powdery stuff in the micro channels


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Advanced LRT doesn't leech at those temps, I used it in my AMD build which was a lot hotter than that. It shouldn't leech at all, have you found it clogging the channels of your water blocks? It going cloudy isn't leeching btw, my mayhems tubing has hazed slightly but B Neg himself has said all rubber tubing will haze over time no mater who makes it, the only way to stay clear is to go PETG or Acrylic or the best, Glass.


I switched to LRT from Tygon after that stuff leached a ton of crud into my loop. So far LRT has proven leech free but as i said it tends to start turning yellow on me. Not very noticable since my case is lit with blue leds but when i do my maintence I pop the tube off the fittings and theres a clear difference as the spot where the fitting was secure is clear but the tube turned color. That review i linked to seems to have seen the same thing. So if mayhems is the same without the yellowing, but actually far easier to work with AND half the cost of LRT then seems like switching is a no brainer. Especially if im using Mayhems coolants.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> I switched to LRT from Tygon after that stuff leached a ton of crud into my loop. So far LRT has proven leech free but as i said it tends to start turning yellow on me. Not very noticable since my case is lit with blue leds but when i do my maintence I pop the tube off the fittings and theres a clear difference as the spot where the fitting was secure is clear but the tube turned color. That review i linked to seems to have seen the same thing. So if mayhems is the same without the yellowing, but actually far easier to work with AND half the cost of LRT then seems like switching is a no brainer. Especially if im using Mayhems coolants.


Oh I always recommend both tbh but I do lean very much so towards mayhems tubing because we'll British pride more than anything.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Oh I always recommend both tbh but I do lean very much so towards mayhems tubing because we'll British pride more than anything.


Mayhems has great products, outstanding customer support and unmatched quality.
I've tried Pastel and X1 coolants, never had a smallest issue. I've tried their soft tubing, super clarity, no yellowing nor leeching. I've owned 360 Havoc, awesome rad with top performance.
I will recommend Mayhems anytime over competitors products.

At the moment I'm running rigid tubing from Primochill, radiators from HWLabs and coolant from Aquacomputer LOL


----------



## Gil80

agree about Mayhems outstanding customer support. Best I've seen so far.

I do hope Mayhems ultra clear tubing won't leach because I haven't seen a test at 45 degrees, which is usually when leaching starts to occur.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> agree about Mayhems outstanding customer support. Best I've seen so far.
> 
> I do hope Mayhems ultra clear tubing won't leach because I haven't seen a test at 45 degrees, which is usually when leaching starts to occur.


isn't 45°C too much for water? If a loop reaches 45 then cpu ang gpu must be like 70. it completely negates the idea of water cooling, one be better off using air coolers. My water temp never exceeded 33 after hours of killing it, and eveb then my cpu maxes out @ 58°C. If I saw 40ish in my loop I would switch it off immediately









back on topic; I used Mayhems clear tubing 16/10mm with Barrow fittings. Not possible to pull the tube out of the fitting, great combo.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> isn't 45°C too much for water? If a loop reaches 45 then cpu ang gpu must be like 70. it completely negates the idea of water cooling, one be better off using air coolers. My water temp never exceeded 33 after hours of killing it, and eveb then my cpu maxes out @ 58°C. If I saw 40ish in my loop I would switch it off immediately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> back on topic; I used Mayhems clear tubing 16/10mm with Barrow fittings. Not possible to pull the tube out of the fitting, great combo.


45 is only high if you take into account other variables, such as:
1. Ambient temps for a room without air conditioner and Sydney summer. The room reaches 30c~33c easily.
2. Cooling 2 x R9 290 OC edition - on air, these GPU's core reach to 90c~95c on full load (I use 3 monitors). on Water cooling, they both don't pass 67c. That's quite an improvement.
3. Cooling i7 3770K @ 4.7Ghz
4. I have restrictive air flow because my case is under my PC desk, so the heat is circulating back to the case unfortunately.
5. The 45c figure is after 2 hours of gaming.

It's not ideal at all, but on air cooling the GPU's will throttle.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> agree about Mayhems outstanding customer support. Best I've seen so far.
> 
> I do hope Mayhems ultra clear tubing won't leach because I haven't seen a test at 45 degrees, which is usually when leaching starts to occur.


I don't think you understand what you're buying there is nothing to leech from mayhems tubing and pretty sure nothing leeches from advanced LRT either unless someone can correct me. There has been several cases of people getting pro LRT by accident from distributes.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I don't think you understand what you're buying there is nothing to leech from mayhems tubing and pretty sure nothing leeches from advanced LRT either unless someone can correct me. There has been several cases of people getting pro LRT by accident from distributes.


Oh, I didn't say there is a leeching from Mayhems tubing.. not at all. I haven't tried them yet, but I did buy them and I am going to use them in my upcoming build.
I simply had the misfortune of getting twice leeching problems with EK Primochill Primoflex Advanced LRT


----------



## nyxagamemnon

I've got a question. If your currently using mayhem's X1 and want to use pastel if there is a residual amount of X1 left in the system will it interfere with pastel? Or is it safe to combine the two liquids?

Planning on paste red/white.

It's X1 CLear and UV Clear blue the current coolant.


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> I've got a question. If your currently using mayhem's X1 and want to use pastel if there is a residual amount of X1 left in the system will it interfere with pastel? Or is it safe to combine the two liquids?
> 
> Planning on paste red/white.
> 
> It's X1 CLear and UV Clear blue the current coolant.


Ideally you would do thurough clean and rinse of your loop parts. Personally I like to disassemble my blocks, scrub em with distilled water, rinse my rad, then use Mayhems cleaning products to ensure ive dissolved and flushed any residual ANYTHING before adding fresh coolant to minimize contaminants. Even since im going for pastel to fresh pastel. If you are using dyes of any kind a proper flush is very reccomended as it tends to get stuck in the rads. It took two yearly cycles of flushing and using fresh pastel before mine stopped taking on a blue tint. I previously used xt-1 concentrate and blue dye.


----------



## Fifth Horseman

Just thought I would post in my new club and share some of my thoughts. I recently did a TT Core P5 build with a 560mm Monsta rad(rad cleaned with vinegar and hot water), Raystorm Pro CPU block, Ek Supremacy GPU block, Bitspower 400ml reservoir, Durelene tubing, (as recommended by trusted people here), and lastly a EK improved D5 pump.

For this build I choose to try out the new Mayhems Aurora 2 Red, My first impressions were WOW! Truly looks incredible. Now going into this project I was well aware of that the Mayhems Aurora line was intended to be used temporarily, but the 2nd iteration of it was supposedly better with smaller particles, i.e less chance of them falling out of the solution and getting lodged somewhere in the system. I wanted to to see if i could keep the cool looks and run it permanently. I designed my loop with high flow and low restriction in mind to ensure that the particles never really get a chance to settle anywhere and even if they did the high flow and turbulence of the water would get them moving again.

Given what I got I feel things turned out perfect. In comparing my builds to others I have seen, I notice that my water seems to be much more violent and turbulent, which i would attribute to the low restriction/highflow design and having a better version of the already awesome D5 pump. Time will tell whether I am right or wrong, but I remain very confident because I put the time and thought into dealing with some of the fluids shortcomings and handicaps.

I apologize for the potato camera.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Just thought I would post in my new club and share some of my thoughts. I recently did a TT Core P5 build with a 560mm Monsta rad(rad cleaned with vinegar and hot water), Raystorm Pro CPU block, Ek Supremacy GPU block, Bitspower 400ml reservoir, Durelene tubing, (as recommended by trusted people here), and lastly a EK improved D5 pump.
> 
> For this build I choose to try out the new Mayhems Aurora 2 Red, My first impressions were WOW! Truly looks incredible. Now going into this project I was well aware of that the Mayhems Aurora line was intended to be used temporarily, but the 2nd iteration of it was supposedly better with smaller particles, i.e less chance of them falling out of the solution and getting lodged somewhere in the system. I wanted to to see if i could keep the cool looks and run it permanently. I designed my loop with high flow and low restriction in mind to ensure that the particles never really get a chance to settle anywhere and even if they did the high flow and turbulence of the water would get them moving again.
> 
> Given what I got I feel things turned out perfect. In comparing my builds to others I have seen, I notice that my water seems to be much more violent and turbulent, which i would attribute to the low restriction/highflow design and having a better version of the already awesome D5 pump. Time will tell whether I am right or wrong, but I remain very confident because I put the time and thought into dealing with some of the fluids shortcomings and handicaps.
> 
> I apologize for the potato camera.




That's exactly my reaction WoW!!
Love the auroras effect and you chose nice color I think the size of your rez makes additional reason for its total WoW look









I urge you to go hard tubing, if you ever decide to, don't go with PETG







in a long run it still absorbs liquid, do it once and forget it, go with acrylic or glass


----------



## 0ldChicken

@Fifth Horseman nice! Always glad to see another aurora build! Looks like you've make a good setup for it from what i can see. I'd love to see a little clip of it in motion! What kind of d5 are you using? D5s or something?

I've gotten away from aurora for the time being but I'll be back soon!


----------



## devsfan1830

Seems Mayhems products have evolved a bit and I've missed it. Is there a difference between the Pastel Extreme White and the Pastel White Premix aside from concentrated vs ready to use? I just use the premix for the hassle free plain white look without needing to measure water vs additive. Is the Extreme is better?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> Seems Mayhems products have evolved a bit and I've missed it. Is there a difference between the Pastel Extreme White and the Pastel White Premix aside from concentrated vs ready to use? I just use the premix for the hassle free plain white look without needing to measure water vs additive. Is the Extreme is better?


it's meant to be better and more advanced. Also it's more white(bluish tint) and you cannot mix it with dyes or other pastels.


----------



## 0ldChicken

@devsfan1830 pastel extreme can be used with dyes.

"Mayhems Pastel Extreme can only be mixed with Mayhems Non-Staining dye or Normal Dyes."
https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/pastel-coolants/pastel-extreme-100ml/mayhems-pastel-extreme-white-100ml/


----------



## Fifth Horseman

Im using the upgraded D5 Sold on EK's website. Here is a short video of it. The pictures nor the the video do it any sort of justice.




Edit:

Kind of off topic but does any1 know if someboady makes like a g1/4 led rod to go down reservoirs i think it would look alot better if i could illuminate the inner res to give it kind of a glow effect.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fifth Horseman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Im using the upgraded D5 Sold on EK's website. Here is a short video of it. The pictures nor the the video do it any sort of justice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of off topic but does any1 know if someboady makes like a g1/4 led rod to go down reservoirs i think it would look alot better if i could illuminate the inner res to give it kind of a glow effect.


Monsoon has some new light plugs that look pretty cool.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> @devsfan1830 pastel extreme can be used with dyes.
> 
> "Mayhems Pastel Extreme can only be mixed with Mayhems Non-Staining dye or Normal Dyes."
> https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/pastel-coolants/pastel-extreme-100ml/mayhems-pastel-extreme-white-100ml/


oh thx for that, sorry for misinformimg and confusing. It's the other coolants only not to be mixed with it.


----------



## Chopper1591

Received an order today which contained 4 bottles of x1 clear concentrate.

Could you people have a look at my post to see what I found:
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/99360#post_25340117


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Received an order today which contained 4 bottles of x1 clear concentrate.
> 
> Could you people have a look at my post to see what I found:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/99360#post_25340117


I would email/PM Mayhems directly with those photos but my gut says send it all back. It certainly should not be yellow like that. Product photos on Mayhems site show it to be totally colorless. Where did you order from? It looks like the bottles were poorly stored and they shipped them anyways. Id demand a refund. The X1 is made from vegetable extracts so its possible they were stored in a way that made it break down. MIGHT be useable but its gonna look ugly and possibly sludge up your loop.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> I would email/PM Mayhems directly with those photos but my gut says send it all back. It certainly should not be yellow like that. Product photos on Mayhems site show it to be totally colorless. Where did you order from? It looks like the bottles were poorly stored and they shipped them anyways. Id demand a refund. The X1 is made from vegetable extracts so its possible they were stored in a way that made it break down. MIGHT be useable but its gonna look ugly and possibly sludge up your loop.


I've had contact with the store. Just received an reply.
They are happily willing to supply an RMA for me to refund.

It's more that I find it weird.
They said that Mayhems possibly changed the formula. Hard to believe... well it could be, but they sure wouldn't change the color on a "clear" mix.


----------



## VSG

That's the vegetable extracts in the coolant just reacting to sunlight, it's possible they were stored in indirect/direct light. It should not impact performance in any way. See if it looks clear once diluted.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's the vegetable extracts in the coolant just reacting to sunlight, it's possible they were stored in indirect/direct light. It should not impact performance in any way. See if it looks clear once diluted.


Sounds about right. I'd rather not mix it. I can return it to the store for a refund.

Now I know when it is mostly stored in solid bottles instead of transparent.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Looking forward to it Mick! I really hope you offer a "true" red tubing. Primochill's red LRT is orange and not red.


I have used a lot of X1 clear the past few years. I'm not sure why some appear more clear than others. Once I dilute the concentrate with water though, the coolant looks perfectly fine to me. I actually have a 100ml bottle of clear concentrate I ordered from Performance PCs last week, and it has the yellowish tint as well. I wouldn't worry about it honestly.


----------



## atomicus

I am new to watercooling and considering using Mayhems X1 UV Purple in a PETG loop. Is this a good idea, is it a good product? Does it make a difference whether going for a premix or adding dye to something clear? I see lots of advice saying to go for plain old distilled water and leave it alone. I am willing to do this if it REALLY is the sensible thing to do. Any advice?


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I am new to watercooling and considering using Mayhems X1 UV Purple in a PETG loop. Is this a good idea, is it a good product? Does it make a difference whether going for a premix or adding dye to something clear? I see lots of advice saying to go for plain old distilled water and leave it alone. I am willing to do this if it REALLY is the sensible thing to do. Any advice?


With plain water youll need anticorrosives and algecides. With stuff like mayhems products you just mix with water (or get a premix) and go. I use mayhems pastel, have used xt-1. Both really great and really easy products. Just make sure your loop is primarily nickel and/or copper and ur good to go. Also make sure you flush the parts well before adding the coolant.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> With plain water youll need anticorrosives and algecides. With stuff like mayhems products you just mix with water (or get a premix) and go. I use mayhems pastel, have used xt-1. Both really great and really easy products. Just make sure your loop is primarily nickel and/or copper and ur good to go. Also make sure you flush the parts well before adding the coolant.


Thanks, is there no issue with longevity of the loop though? I have read with some coloured coolants you need to drain and change far more frequently than using clear.

I plan on using an EK-Supremacy EVO Nickel Plexi block for CPU and Nickel+Plexi GPU Block, and Black Ice Nemesis 360 GTS rads.

I assume reservoir choice doesn't really factor in to coolant choice?


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Thanks, is there no issue with longevity of the loop though? I have read with some coloured coolants you need to drain and change far more frequently than using clear.
> 
> I plan on using an EK-Supremacy EVO Nickel Plexi block for CPU and Nickel+Plexi GPU Block, and Black Ice Nemesis 360 GTS rads.
> 
> I assume reservoir choice doesn't really factor in to coolant choice?


Don't think the res will matter too much. I have an Acetal/Plexi one that works just fine. As for longevity I'm not sure how long you are hoping for. I used XT-1 with blue dye and needed to clean and change the coolant after about 8 months but that's because the dye gunked up the system. I switched to Pastel White and have never had an issue. I dont think its dyed white. Rather its the nano particles in it that give it the color. So there's nothing to stain. I can get a year or so out of it before a change. Could probably go longer but its what I just prefer to do. If you use plain water with UV reactive colored dye you may end up with the same gunking. You may not. I've never used any dyes other than that blue that time. Also with some dyes you may get discoloration of the tubing on some tubing. So really its not collant vs water you really need to worry about. At least not with the Mayhems products in my experience. Its the dyes you add to it. Using plain clear/white coolant is safe, in some cases could be better than plain water, and is just easier to use since you don't need to figure out how much anti-corrosive and algecide to add to the loop. The coolant mixes take care of that. That also means do NOT add any other additives or kill coils to coolant based loops unless you know for sure it already doesn't have something in it. You'll risk degradation and could actually cause growth and corrosion. The issue with longevity really comes down to the dye you use. I guess Mayhems has some non-staining dyes now. The other alternative is just to use a colored tubing.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> Don't think the res will matter too much. I have an Acetal/Plexi one that works just fine. As for longevity I'm not sure how long you are hoping for. I used XT-1 with blue dye and needed to clean and change the coolant after about 8 months but that's because the dye gunked up the system. I switched to Pastel White and have never had an issue. I dont think its dyed white. Rather its the nano particles in it that give it the color. So there's nothing to stain. I can get a year or so out of it before a change. Could probably go longer but its what I just prefer to do. If you use plain water with UV reactive colored dye you may end up with the same gunking. You may not. I've never used any dyes other than that blue that time. Also with some dyes you may get discoloration of the tubing on some tubing. So really its not collant vs water you really need to worry about. At least not with the Mayhems products in my experience. Its the dyes you add to it. Using plain clear/white coolant is safe, in some cases could be better than plain water, and is just easier to use since you don't need to figure out how much anti-corrosive and algecide to add to the loop. The coolant mixes take care of that. That also means do NOT add any other additives or kill coils to coolant based loops unless you know for sure it already doesn't have something in it. You'll risk degradation and could actually cause growth and corrosion. The issue with longevity really comes down to the dye you use. I guess Mayhems has some non-staining dyes now. The other alternative is just to use a colored tubing.


Great, thanks for that advice. So a premix may be the way to go then, just so you know you're getting something that's been done right? I have read quite a bit of advice saying don't use coolants and distilled with a kill coil is the only way to go or you're asking for trouble, but I see so many people doing otherwise, that advice doesn't really seem to make sense... otherwise no one would do it and all we'd see is plain clear custom loops all the time lol! I guess you just need to approach it with a bit of common sense and knowledge, which is what I'm trying to do.


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Great, thanks for that advice. So a premix may be the way to go then, just so you know you're getting something that's been done right? I have read quite a bit of advice saying don't use coolants and distilled with a kill coil is the only way to go or you're asking for trouble, but I see so many people doing otherwise, that advice doesn't really seem to make sense... otherwise no one would do it and all we'd see is plain clear custom loops all the time lol! I guess you just need to approach it with a bit of common sense and knowledge, which is what I'm trying to do.


I think there are people stuck in their ways and stick to water. That or they see coolant as an unnecessary waste of money because water is probably just as good. So its really cost vs hassle. There are probably some crap coolants out there too so just do your research and make a judgement call. Id say from personal experience, Mayhems is good stuff. Just use Mayhems tubing or Advanced LRT with it and you should be good to go. I used Tygon once and that stuff leeched plasticizer all over my loop. Come to think of it that's probably what caused my loop to gunk up the first time with some residual the second time. The dye still did sort of discolor my tubing and my acrylic res at the time.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> I think there are people stuck in their ways and stick to water. That or they see coolant as an unnecessary waste of money because water is probably just as good. So its really cost vs hassle. There are probably some crap coolants out there too so just do your research and make a judgement call. Id say from personal experience, Mayhems is good stuff. Just use Mayhems tubing or Advanced LRT with it and you should be good to go. I used Tygon once and that stuff leeched plasticizer all over my loop. Come to think of it that's probably what caused my loop to gunk up the first time with some residual the second time. The dye still did sort of discolor my tubing and my acrylic res at the time.


I am definitely going hard line and was going with PETG but Mayhems don't seem to do that... only the Borosilicate Glass tubing. Not that I'm against using that, but cutting it to length seems more challenging and risky than PETG.


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I am definitely going hard line and was going with PETG but Mayhems don't seem to do that... only the Borosilicate Glass tubing. Not that I'm against using that, but cutting it to length seems more challenging and risky than PETG.


Nice! Should be perfectly fine with acrylic hardline. You have more ambition than I do! Post a pic when its done!


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> Nice! Should be perfectly fine with acrylic hardline. You have more ambition than I do! Post a pic when its done!


Haha, yeah I think maybe too much... my ambition is writing cheques my ability may not be able to cash lol!


----------



## viperguy212

Hey all,

I have a quick question concerning the bltiz kit...

I'm planning to put my build together this weekend but wanted to clean out the rads today or tomorrow to save some time. Any harm in running part 1 through the rads now then completing things with part 2 this weekend (say like 3-4 days)?

Thanks!


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I have a quick question concerning the bltiz kit...
> 
> I'm planning to put my build together this weekend but wanted to clean out the rads today or tomorrow to save some time. Any harm in running part 1 through the rads now then completing things with part 2 this weekend (say like 3-4 days)?
> 
> Thanks!


Should probably be fine. Part 1 is there to dissolve oil and flux and other debris like old coolant, dye and pasticizer from the rad. Id just flush the bejeesus out of the rad with distilled water and if you are concerned about dust resettling in, cap it off with the port plugs. But part 2 will probably take care of stuff like dust.

I assume you meant use part 1 and leave it empty till the weekend. Do NOT leave part 1 in the rad longer than the instructions say to.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> Don't think the res will matter too much. I have an Acetal/Plexi one that works just fine. As for longevity I'm not sure how long you are hoping for. I used XT-1 with blue dye and needed to clean and change the coolant after about 8 months but that's because the dye gunked up the system. I switched to Pastel White and have never had an issue. I dont think its dyed white. Rather its the nano particles in it that give it the color. So there's nothing to stain. I can get a year or so out of it before a change. Could probably go longer but its what I just prefer to do. If you use plain water with UV reactive colored dye you may end up with the same gunking. You may not. I've never used any dyes other than that blue that time. Also with some dyes you may get discoloration of the tubing on some tubing. So really its not collant vs water you really need to worry about. At least not with the Mayhems products in my experience. Its the dyes you add to it. Using plain clear/white coolant is safe, in some cases could be better than plain water, and is just easier to use since you don't need to figure out how much anti-corrosive and algecide to add to the loop. The coolant mixes take care of that. That also means do NOT add any other additives or kill coils to coolant based loops unless you know for sure it already doesn't have something in it. You'll risk degradation and could actually cause growth and corrosion. The issue with longevity really comes down to the dye you use. I guess Mayhems has some non-staining dyes now. The other alternative is just to use a colored tubing.


Dyes don't cause gunk to build up in loops. Dyes get blamed because it "dyes" the contaminants that are actually causing the build up making it look like the dye is to blame. Plasticizer leaching from poor quality soft tubing is what causes the most common complaints of gunk buildup. Its the same reason why some soft tubing appears to be stained from dye. The plasticizer that begins to leech from the tube is exposed to dye and retains the color. If you are using quality tubing like Advanced LRT or Mayhems and are still seeing plasticizer, it is because your fluid temps are too high in your loop. Try to keep your fluid temps below 45C. High fluid temps accelerate the rate that plasticizer leaches and clouds tubing. Mayhems actually conducted a test to verify these things and those were his results. I'll see if I can find the thread.


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Dyes don't cause gunk to build up in loops. Dyes get blamed because it "dyes" the contaminants that are actually causing the build up making it look like the dye is to blame. Plasticizer leaching from poor quality soft tubing is what causes the most common complaints of gunk buildup. Its the same reason why some soft tubing appears to be stained from dye. The plasticizer that begins to leech from the tube is exposed to dye and retains the color. If you are using quality tubing like Advanced LRT or Mayhems and are still seeing plasticizer, it is because your fluid temps are too high in your loop. Try to keep your fluid temps below 45C. High fluid temps accelerate the rate that plasticizer leaches and clouds tubing. Mayhems actually conducted a test to verify these things and those were his results. I'll see if I can find the thread.


When I think about it you are probably right. Although it may have been junk in the rad. Dont recall ever letting coolant get that hot. But based on my PPCs invoices it turns out I may have been using advanced LRT at the time and XT-1 and Blue Dye. For whatever reason the coolant went from a really vivid blue to a murky green. Its possible I either loaded it up with far too much dye, did not flush the rad enough as this was before Blitz existed or at least I knew about it (2013), or I improperly mixed the concentrate. Whatever happened it clogged up my blocks and stained the tubes and res. I switched to Pastel White premix and Blitzing for every flush. Had not had an issue since. Sorry for the probably contradicting info but my memory of the chain of events is a bit off. All I know is it was slightly rocky from the start but it really may have been bad res prep.

Pick your dye carefully though and be prepared to stick with that color. Took two cycles of pastel before it stopped getting blue tint from what I assume was dye stuck in the rads. I think Blitz helps a ton to eliminate that but I was only running the dye for maybe a bit under 2 years.

My the LRT does not appear to leech, but after 8-12 months of use the tubing does start to shift to a yellow color. Not noticeable until I take the loop apart for cleaning. Not sure if this contributed to my initial gunk problem or not.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> When I think about it you are probably right. Although it may have been junk in the rad. Dont recall ever letting coolant get that hot. But based on my PPCs invoices it turns out I may have been using advanced LRT at the time and XT-1 and Blue Dye. For whatever reason the coolant went from a really vivid blue to a murky green. Its possible I either loaded it up with far too much dye, did not flush the rad enough as this was before Blitz existed or at least I knew about it (2013), or I improperly mixed the concentrate. Whatever happened it clogged up my blocks and stained the tubes and res. I switched to Pastel White premix and Blitzing for every flush. Had not had an issue since. Sorry for the probably contradicting info but my memory of the chain of events is a bit off. All I know is it was slightly rocky from the start but it really may have been bad res prep.
> 
> Pick your dye carefully though and be prepared to stick with that color. Took two cycles of pastel before it stopped getting blue tint from what I assume was dye stuck in the rads. I think Blitz helps a ton to eliminate that but I was only running the dye for maybe a bit under 2 years.
> 
> My the LRT does not appear to leech, but after 8-12 months of use the tubing does start to shift to a yellow color. Not noticeable until I take the loop apart for cleaning. Not sure if this contributed to my initial gunk problem or not.


quote from Mayhems website:

XT1 is a Ethylene based coolant, and is not compatible with PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Flexible Tubing"


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> quote from Mayhems website:
> 
> XT1 is a Ethylene based coolant, and is not compatible with PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Flexible Tubing"


and THAT would explain that. LOL.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Haha, yeah I think maybe too much... my ambition is writing cheques my ability may not be able to cash lol!


Just fyi, xt-1 is glycol based and shouldn't be used with petg. Is fine with acrylic/glass but not petg. X-1 and all other mayhem's coolants are fine with petg afaik.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I have a quick question concerning the bltiz kit...
> 
> I'm planning to put my build together this weekend but wanted to clean out the rads today or tomorrow to save some time. Any harm in running part 1 through the rads now then completing things with part 2 this weekend (say like 3-4 days)?
> 
> Thanks!


If i remember correctly part 2 should be done right after part 1 because it neutralizes the acids from part 1. Some one asked a similar question a few weeks ago, i put the reps response below. Only difference was he was planning on waiting weeks but still.

Post 13717 No its best to run part one then dilute down part two with warm water (1/2 the normal documented ratio) and nutrilze the acid afterwards. Do not do a acid flush then leave it, it may do more harm than good.


----------



## Anateus

So, I noticed this thing in my res after nearly 10 months use of Mayhems Pastel While mixed with Non Stan Blue.



I will be tearing down this system next month, as I cant afford it now. I thought that pastel would inhibit algae growth. I doubt its EK pump pad that got "stuck" to the plexi.


----------



## 414347

I guarantee you that what you see is not an algae, algae will not develop in that scale that fast and wouldn't be that obvious, either something was in your loop and just now got free or its plasticizer presuming you are on soft tubing, or something else


----------



## atomicus

Does anyone use the Mayhems X1 UV Clear Blue... how long does it actually last in respect to the UV effect? I have seen some reports of it fading rather quickly, but I wasn't clear if that was due to user error (not cleaning rads before use etc)?


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Is EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (concentrate 100mL) the same as any of mayhems coolants. Switching to Mayhems Red Pastel coolant in a few days after I'm sure the loop is solid.

Also, I want the blood red pastel so should I try to mix my own or can I buy it premix?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would recommend mixing yourself, since you never know how long a pre-mix ha been shelved at a retailer.


----------



## devsfan1830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Is EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (concentrate 100mL) the same as any of mayhems coolants. Switching to Mayhems Red Pastel coolant in a few days after I'm sure the loop is solid.
> 
> Also, I want the blood red pastel so should I try to mix my own or can I buy it premix?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyezjUb76lY

That's Mayhems dye mix guide for "blood red". They have a red pastel premix (sold out at PPCs) but I have no idea how dark it is.

Not sure why you are asking if EK's coolant is the same or not. Is that what you use to have in your system? If so you should be flushing the loop of old coolant before switching to another brand reguardless. They are not likely to be chemically equivalent unless Mayhems is selling their coolants to EK. Even then, a clean loop is always the best starting point.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devsfan1830*
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyezjUb76lY
> 
> That's Mayhems dye mix guide for "blood red". They have a red pastel premix (sold out at PPCs) but I have no idea how dark it is.
> 
> Not sure why you are asking if EK's coolant is the same or not. Is that what you use to have in your system? If so you should be flushing the loop of old coolant before switching to another brand reguardless. They are not likely to be chemically equivalent unless Mayhems is selling their coolants to EK. Even then, a clean loop is always the best starting point.


Brand new loop, rads cleaned and flushed, then distilled water first run with EK coolant. Just wondering if the EK is the same as the Mayhems coolant so I might not have to go through another mayhems cleaning kit......... I've heard some where the Mayhems sells EK the coolant. Anyone know if this is true and what the EK coolant might be branded as from mayhems??? The EK coolant is definitely glycol based. Feels just like the coolant for new chevys. I may be wrong.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I would recommend mixing yourself, since you never know how long a pre-mix ha been shelved at a retailer.


But Darth, wouldn't that ring true for the ingredients of the mix also?? I'm ordering my coolant from Mayhems so it should be fresh.


----------



## Fifth Horseman

Just thought i would post an update. Ive been running the mayhems 2 aurora in my loop for roughly a 1.5 weeks now. I have had 0 loss of particles and my tubing (duralene) looks just as awesome as the first day i got it. Now to reiterate my goal is to run this fluid permanently. I think I can achieve this because im running a small loop 2 blocks, 1 rad, custom high flow d5 and i am doing it all with out a drain valve so i make sure not to have any stalled fluid.


----------



## Lordevan83

Hey, I'm hoping to go with the aurora 2 also. I heard that the original aurora had problems with drain ports and "stalled" fluid pocket from that. Do the aurora 2 have the same problem?

If you can't use drain ports, what other draining options are there? Quick disconnect in a T? A capped Y splitter at the top and flip computer over to drain?


----------



## Fifth Horseman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lordevan83*
> 
> Hey, I'm hoping to go with the aurora 2 also. I heard that the original aurora had problems with drain ports and "stalled" fluid pocket from that. Do the aurora 2 have the same problem?
> 
> If you can't use drain ports, what other draining options are there? Quick disconnect in a T? A capped Y splitter at the top and flip computer over to drain?


Your going to have the same issues with the aurora 2. The particles do fall out of suspension when you turn your computer off. But here is the thing, drain ports valves are a convenience you do not need them to drain your loop you just might need a bigger bowl and might make a little more of a mess.

Edit: For me I simply just get a big bowl and I literally just cut my tubing at the bottom base and put the tubing in the bowl. the whole loop will drain out into the bowl. I am not worried about cutting the tubing, your supposed to replace it anyways when you drain your loop and undo fittings.


----------



## 414347

Boy o Boy, it has really slowed it down here at this forum


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Boy o Boy, it has really slowed it down here at this forum


As was expected.

TCO


----------



## 414347

Whats going on


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Whats going on


Nothing since the Glass tubing release and Mick Stepping down. They ( I am assuming) are trying to stay low, as to avoid the previous heat.

TCO


----------



## 414347

Ya, could be


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Nothing since the Glass tubing release and Mick Stepping down. They ( I am assuming) are trying to stay low, as to avoid the previous heat.
> 
> TCO


What previous heat?

P.S. - I love Mayhems products and wish to see more activity from Mayhems.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> What previous heat?
> 
> P.S. - I love Mayhems products and wish to see more activity from Mayhems.


Heat was on Mick. Talking smack about someone somewhere I believe.

Maybe With Jay2cents? If I recall correctly.

TCO


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> P.S. - I love Mayhems products and wish to see more activity from Mayhems.


Same here, I've been using his products for over 2 years, not a single issue and funny thing is, some people were complaining about his demeanor the way he spoke to them.... not once I had bad feedback from Mick.

I think sometimes we tend to look at others and yet we miss to look at ourselves and how we bring things up to the table than we complaining about someone's reaction, this is just my observation.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> What previous heat?
> 
> P.S. - I love Mayhems products and wish to see more activity from Mayhems.
> 
> 
> 
> Heat was on Mick. Talking smack about someone somewhere I believe.
> 
> Maybe With Jay2cents? If I recall correctly.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

I thought the issue was something about advertising his products in the thread or something which led to him pretty much abandoning OCN and use only his own site for product support. I think it all happened around the same time as the jayz2cents stuff and that was also when he decided to hire someone else to handle the CS.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> What previous heat?
> 
> P.S. - I love Mayhems products and wish to see more activity from Mayhems.


They have a dedicated forum for support btw on their site.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Heat was on Mick. Talking smack about someone somewhere I believe.
> 
> Maybe With Jay2cents? If I recall correctly.
> 
> TCO


Money for the right to post here was the issue, and it also happened to Bill Owen when he posted a link to his site when a modder asked for it.

Mick talked smack on jay because he acted a tool, PPC handled the issue poorly and Mick admitted that it was around Christmas time, booze might of been involved. Jay is still using Mayhems products btw how strange is that...


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> ... Jay is still using Mayhems products btw how strange is that...


Not strange. They talked it through and sorted things out. They came to an arrangement. Jay has been running Mayhems in Skunkworks again and letting it go discoloured again. Then he's going to break Skunkworks down and send samples of the fluid and a rad each to both Mayhems and HWLabs for analysis, so they can try to figure out what's going on. Then WE all benefit if they can find the cause of the discolouration and improve their products as a result.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> Not strange. They talked it through and sorted things out. They came to an arrangement. Jay has been running Mayhems in Skunkworks again and letting it go discoloured again. Then he's going to break Skunkworks down and send samples of the fluid and a rad each to both Mayhems and HWLabs for analysis, so they can try to figure out what's going on. Then WE all benefit if they can find the cause of the discolouration and improve their products as a result.


My my! Its as though all this should of happened prior to jay throwing his toys out of his pram, wouldn't you agree?


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> My my! Its as though all this should of happened prior to jay throwing his toys out of his pram, wouldn't you agree?


There may well be more to it that we are not privvy to. But it's all over now, so best to let it lie.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> There may well be more to it that we are not privvy to. But it's all over now, so best to let it lie.


Yes it would.


----------



## Barefooter

As a long time subscriber to this thread... it was way more fun when Mick was a regular on here!


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> As a long time subscriber to this thread... it was way more fun when Mick was a regular on here!


I totally agree


----------



## Steamroller83

One questions. Why is the die disappearing from the loop? I fixed my self a nice orange look with some green and bit more of Blood Red Mayhems die and i had to fix the color once because the water turned clear.... and now its clear again after a few weeks. The water looks like there was never any die in it.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steamroller83*
> 
> One questions. Why is the die disappearing from the loop? I fixed my self a nice orange look with some green and bit more of Blood Red Mayhems die and i had to fix the color once because the water turned clear.... and now its clear again after a few weeks. The water looks like there was never any die in it.


Pics? Did you mix the dye in a bottle or jug before filling your system or was the system full and you're putting it in your res? If the latter then what is happening is it's slowly diluting into the loop. You should mix it first then fill the loop to avoid this.


----------



## Steamroller83

9. July. I had to fix the color that day because it went super pale.



30. July, Today is totally see trough.





And yes i mixed the die straight into the reservoir... the problem with pre-mixing is that i dont know much coolant
will i need, and I might end up coming short or tossing some coolant away....


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steamroller83*
> 
> 9. July. I had to fix the color that day because it went super pale.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 30. July, Today is totally see trough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes i mixed the die straight into the reservoir... the problem with pre-mixing is that i dont know much coolant
> will i need, and I might end up coming short or tossing some coolant away....


This is why you fill the loop, then drain it into a jug so you have your amount, then you add the dye, your dye isn't disappearing, its being diluted by the coolant that is clear. Please remove the coolant, mix your desired colour into the coolant you removed and refill. Try to remove as much as possible from the loop in to the jug so it doesn't dilute when re adding.


----------



## fat4l

Ok guys.
I bought mayhems blitz pro.
If i put part 1 into my EK rads, can I use these EK plugs to plug it, for like 10 hours ? They prolly are..nickel plated ?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-plug-g1-4

Thanks!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat4l*
> 
> Ok guys.
> I bought mayhems blitz pro.
> If i put part 1 into my EK rads, can I use these EK plugs to plug it, for like 10 hours ? They prolly are..nickel plated ?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-plug-g1-4
> 
> Thanks!


I wouldn't, it's acid it will strip the plating, you can use the blue rubber bungs that came with the rad though, I believe they use them or the screw in ones in the demo video on their youtube channel.


----------



## carlouws

Is Mayhem Blitz safe to use with EKWB nickel plated blocks? If I use mayhem blitz part 1 on my radiator, flush it with distilled water and all that jazz, then assemble the loop and use part 2, will my nickel plated blocks will be damaged or will everything be okay and safe? I have searched about this but haven't found anything.


----------



## 414347

There shouldn't be nickel plating inside radiators...period, blitz# 1 will eat it out, its for copper radiators, if you referring to plugs, use the one without plating or used them then replace with new ones.
After that run Blitz# 2 to neutralize acid and clean your whole system, it's very effective product.


----------



## carlouws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> There shouldn't be nickel plating inside radiators...period, blitz# 1 will eat it out, its for copper radiators, if you referring to plugs, use the one without plating or used them then replace with new ones.
> After that run Blitz# 2 to neutralize acid and clean your whole system, it's very effective product.


I know Blitz #1 is for copper radiators only. My question is if Blitz Part #2 is safe to run with nickel plated waterblocks, specifically EKWB ones. On that same note, can you run part #1 by itself?


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlouws*
> 
> I know Blitz #1 is for copper radiators only. My question is if Blitz Part #2 is safe to run with nickel plated waterblocks, specifically EKWB ones. On that same note, can you run part #1 by itself?


Hi.

Part 2 is safe for Nickel plated blocks. I used it on both of my R9 290 EKWB nickel plated. Part 2 is just for cleaning residual crap inside your loop and neutralise the pH levels, such that anything that may contaminate your loop and affect it's pH levels is now either gone or neutralised.

Part 1 is not for running in your loop. It will ruin your loop. This is only to clean out the crap from the manufacturing process out of radiators. If I'm not mistaken, it's based on acid, therefore use with caution.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I know Blitz #1 is for copper radiators only. My question is if Blitz Part # 2 is safe to run with nickel plated waterblocks, specifically EKWB ones. On that same note, can you run part #1 by itself?


Sorry I gave you quick answer not realizing you were asking whether part# 2 can be used on nickel plated blocks....*Gil80* answered that correctly, so no reason for me to rapid that, but as far is
Quote:


> can you run part #1 by itself?


I'm not sure what you mean on itself, if you mean run part 1 on your rads and skipping part 2 afterwards, I'm only answering if that's what you referring to....yes you can, not advisable but you can, you would need to use DI and flash it few extra times to make sure that the acid solution is gone out of your rads.
If that's not what you referring to, you need to make a bit more clear on your question.

Btw. I've used blitz part 2 twice in the past 2 years on 3 of my Heatkiller nickel plated GPUs and CPU blocks and it's a brilliant cleaner.

If you want your system to run truly on its best use it annually, any gunk that might be accumulating in your system, blocks or tubing will get cleaned without any need on taking your blocks apart.

I'm using annually to keep my system it tip top shape and I ove it.


----------



## Ovrclck

Hey everyone. I've been out of the loop for a while. I'm looking to move away from X1 Oil Black and planning to go back to clear. What do you guys think, xt-1 or x1 clear? I'll be using blitz part 2 before filling up if that makes a difference.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> Hey everyone. I've been out of the loop for a while. I'm looking to move away from X1 Oil Black and planning to go back to clear. What do you guys think, xt-1 or x1 clear? I'll be using blitz part 2 before filling up if that makes a difference.


depends on what tubing you are using. xt-1 is glycol based so PETG will have issues with it. I THINK primochill advanced LRT is also not to be used with glycol but you'd have to double check that. x1 is glycerin based I believe and should be compatible with anything.
I'm going completely off memory so please check before making a decision


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> depends on what tubing you are using. xt-1 is glycol based so PETG will have issues with it. I THINK primochill advanced LRT is also not to be used with glycol but you'd have to double check that. x1 is glycerin based I believe and should be compatible with anything.
> I'm going completely off memory so please check before making a decision


Looks like I'm good either way. Acrylic with Mayhems tubing. Thanks.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Hey folks, anyone knows, what's the typical shelf life of Mayhem's X1 concentrate?

I have a bottle from around a year ago - is it still OK to use it?

Mayhem's site says "Can be stored for up to 3 years (in a cool dry environment)" - I stored it in a cabinet, where it is dark most of the time, but not always cool and dry.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Hey folks, anyone knows, what's the typical shelf life of Mayhem's X1 concentrate?
> 
> I have a bottle from around a year ago - is it still OK to use it?
> 
> Mayhem's site says "Can be stored for up to 3 years (in a cool dry environment)" - I stored it in a cabinet, where it is dark most of the time, but not always cool and dry.


Look for the Manufacturer date on the side of the bottle. Small print.




TCO


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Mayhem's site says "Can be stored for up to 3 years (in a cool dry environment)" - I stored it in a cabinet, where it is dark most of the time, but not always cool and dry.


I can confirm 3 years in cold dark place. What Mayhems means cold dark and dry is that you don't keep it in a cabinet e.g. bathroom where there is always stem from showers, but if you keep it in normal room temperature as long as I said its not wet it would be fine I was asking him directly the same question while ago.


----------



## Chiobe

Does anyone know what can make the White Extreme Pastel to turn grey?
Build has been up for about 7 months, cleaned with the basic kit before use.

Can the use of external radiator with quick disconnects be the issue? Something got in the loop through the quick disconnects when I used them?


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Look for the Manufacturer date on the side of the bottle. Small print.


It says 06.02.2015, so it is 1.5 years old which definitely is within the advertised window of 3 years shelf life. I was just wondering how safe it is to still use it after room temperature and humidity storage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I can confirm 3 years in cold dark place. What Mayhems means cold dark and dry is that you don't keep it in a cabinet e.g. bathroom where there is always stem from showers, but if you keep it in normal room temperature as long as I said its not wet it would be fine I was asking him directly the same question while ago.


OK, that's probably as definitive as it gets.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> It says 06.02.2015, so it is 1.5 years old which definitely is within the advertised window of 3 years shelf life. I was just wondering how safe it is to still use it after room temperature and humidity storage.
> OK, that's probably as definitive as it gets.


You might want to run it through a coffee filter first, just to make sure there's nothing to clog up your loop in there.


----------



## s74r1

Recently disassembled my loop and found some nasty looking green stuff on my EK-ACF nickel plated fittings. Wondering if my Mayhems XT-1 is insufficient or my mix ratio was wrong or maybe be something else.









*Loop details:*

Metals: Brass, Copper, Nickel plating, (possibly some chrome), black paint from some Bitspower/EK/Koolance fittings.
Tubing: Norprene rubber tubing (plasticizer free), pretty well rinsed in a outside loop before put into operation.
Coolant: Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O with Mayhems X-1 Clear (10% mix ratio)
Avg coolant temp: 30c-42c (usually 40 under load)
Radiators: 1x Swiftech MCR240-QP, 1x Black Ice Nemesis L-Series 280
Waterblocks: Swiftech Apogee XL (copper+delrin/pom), 1x Aquacomputer Kryographics nickel plated GPU block
Pump: Swiftech MCP655 (Laing D5) w/ "Koolance PMP-450/S - Acetal" body/top.
Reservoir: "Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 - POM" w/ red aqua pipe. (noticed some green stuff at the top where it drips down a bit into the tank)
Fittings: Mostly EK-ACF compression fittings (nickel plated), some other mixed Bitspower black, bitspower nickel or chrome.
Angled fittings: Mostly Bitspower, some EK and Koolance mixed in (all in black).
Loop duration: Approximately 8 months
*Additional info:*

The green stuff is most apparent on fittings that coolant was flowing against (intake side of tube).
Radiators were cleaned with vinegar and hot water, thoroughly rinsed, coolant was ran through it for about a week and changed again just to be sure.
Unable to fully bleed ALL the air bubbles from radiators due to their orientation but most of it was out.
The Swiftech radiator was previously run in a dirty loop with micro-organism growth and some corrosion, but was thoroughly cleaned (or so I thought?).
No visible cloudiness in reservoir or anything in the GPU block, though it's hard to see through semi-transparent GPU block acrylic. Still haven't looked inside CPU block yet but that was cleaned before loop was put into use to prevent any potential contamination.
No silver in the loop.
*Hypotheses?:*

Possibly oxidation from air pockets in brass radiators leaching into coolant?
Chipped/damaged nickel from the EK-ACF? (the hex key to screw them in scratches it a bit)
Something with the Bitspower red water pipe? The top is exposed to air at the top of the tank pushing coolant downward (but still sealed inside).
Dirty Swiftech radiator still dirty?
*Other thoughts:*

Since I'm redoing my loop I'll be replacing the red bitspower aqua pipe with the stock nickel or chromed one and replacing the Swiftech radiator, but this looks like it'll take a major cleaning.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Recently disassembled my loop and found some nasty looking green stuff on my EK-ACF nickel plated fittings. Wondering if my Mayhems XT-1 is insufficient or my mix ratio was wrong of it it might be something else.


Can you leave some of the coolant to dry? Just to see if its the coolant it self or something else.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Recently disassembled my loop and found some nasty looking green stuff on my EK-ACF nickel plated fittings. Wondering if my Mayhems XT-1 is insufficient or my mix ratio was wrong of it it might be something else.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you leave some of the coolant to dry? Just to see if its the coolant it self or something else.
Click to expand...

It's clear coolant. shouldn't be green, no? Or am i misunderstanding you.

Edit: also yes I left some in a bag without rinsing that I can check.


----------



## 414347

There is few things to consider. Any flexible tubing that is "plasticizer free" I wouldn't hold my breath, there is no such thing, any tubing that is soft requires chemical to keep the tubing from cracking and stay flexible for as long as it can so eventually it will leach gunk ......similar philosophy where comes to non conductive liquid, no such thing, it become conductive as soon as it gets in your loop.

Another thing is it could be some sort of algae developed if you have any chrome in your loop it doesn't work well with otter metals actually chrome, not to be mistaking with silver or nickle promotes algee.

You might have your XT-1 out of date when comes to biocide I usually get Mayhems Bocide Extreme and add 5 drops into 4L of Di no more than that and it works magic.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> There is few things to consider. Any flexible tubing that is "plasticizer free" I wouldn't hold my breath, there is no such thing, any tubing that is soft requires chemical to keep the tubing from cracking and stay flexible for as long as it can so eventually it will leach gunk ......similar philosophy where comes to non conductive liquid, no such thing, it become conductive as soon as it gets in your loop.
> 
> Another thing is it could be some sort of algae developed if you have any chrome in your loop it doesn't work well with otter metals actually chrome, not to be mistaking with silver or nickle promotes algee.
> 
> You might have your XT-1 out of date when comes to biocide I usually get Mayhems Bocide Extreme and add 5 drops into 4L of Di no more than that and it works magic.


I'm not a chemist so I don't know exactly what's in norprene but I do know it's a superior type of synthetic rubber compared to EPDM, and both are used in industrial applications.

RE: biocide; so you're saying Mayhems' claims of XT-1 "containing all the inhibitors and biocides you need" is wrong? or did I get a bad batch? or the mix ratio is wrong? hmm, date on bottle says 27.5.2015 and was used around december 2015. not sure if that's a manufacture date or a use-by date.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I'm not a chemist so I don't know exactly what's in norprene but I do know it's a superior type of synthetic rubber compared to EPDM, and both are used in industrial applications.
> 
> RE: biocide; so you're saying Mayhems' claims of XT-1 "containing all the inhibitors and biocides you need" is wrong? or did I get a bad batch? or the mix ratio is wrong? hmm, date on bottle says 27.5.2015 and was used around december 2015. not sure if that's a manufacture date or a use-by date.


No I'm not saying you got bad batch of XT-1, but what I'm saying is that in combination with anything in your loop e.g. it could be to do with metals or tubing , which brings me to saying again... even the highest quality soft tubing do leach gunk, you cannot get around that..........PERIOD so It could be that.

When comes to premixed liquids, occasionally they do break down prematurely so it could have went that way and that's why I said I like to make my own liquid so occasionally I can test the PH and if biocide still works and add more if needed.

Do more digging to pinpoint the issue or you could end up again with the same thing.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not a chemist so I don't know exactly what's in norprene but I do know it's a superior type of synthetic rubber compared to EPDM, and both are used in industrial applications.
> 
> RE: biocide; so you're saying Mayhems' claims of XT-1 "containing all the inhibitors and biocides you need" is wrong? or did I get a bad batch? or the mix ratio is wrong? hmm, date on bottle says 27.5.2015 and was used around december 2015. not sure if that's a manufacture date or a use-by date.
> 
> 
> 
> No I'm not saying you got bad batch of XT-1, but what I'm saying is that in combination with anything in your loop e.g. it could be to do with metals or tubing , which brings me to saying again... even the highest quality soft tubing do leach gunk, you cannot get around that..........PERIOD so It could be that.
> 
> When comes to premixed liquids, occasionally they do break down prematurely so it could have went that way and that's why I said I like to make my own liquid so occasionally I can test the PH and if biocide still works and add more if needed.
> 
> Do more digging to pinpoint the issue or you could end up again with the same thing.
Click to expand...

Hmm, thanks for the info.

RE: Tubing: I believe the tubing I'm using is Tygon R6012 Norprene (Spare norprene tubing from Swiftech from a AIO kit I no longer use.) The sizing seems to match up with the specs, but Swifteh of course wouldn't tell me their supplier. I did notice some of it had a slight scrape on the side like they removed a thin layer to get rid of any brand printed on it. If it's Tygon R6012 then it's supposed to be plasticizer free and not leach, but with Swiftech's latest track record of cutting corners I wouldn't be surprised if they used some cheaper stuff. I'm also using some older Swiftech 3/8" x 1/2" Norprene in some tight areas (this one has "Norprene" printed on it every few feet).
If tubing might be my issue (perhaps copper oxidation leaching into cheap tubing which then leaches onto fittings?) I have a roll of EK-ZMT (EPDM) tubing I could try, but it's VERY stiff and is even more difficult to screw compression cuffs on.
The only issues I'm aware of with Norprene/EPDM is the initial black debris when it's new, it must be thoroughly flushed or blocks can get clogged with black rubber particles. But not all Norprene/EPDM are made equally, of course.

RE: Coolant/liquids: I don't have a PH tester but I suppose I could get one. What PH would I be aiming for? XT-1 says it has PH balancers, but I assume that changes over time. I ran distilled and PT Nuke for awhile in a copper/brass/chrome loop but ended up with white residue on the chrome fittings. Ths time I have nickel plated stuff I need to protect and EG seemed better than PG. I think Mayhems XT-1 is pretty much the same as the X1 except the X1 is PG whereas he XT-1 is EG, but they market it for sub-zero. From experience with car antifreeze, EG based always lasts longer before breaking down but I'm not sure if Mayhems X1 has anything special added compared to the XT-1.

Anyways, update on the dirty fittings:
After cleaning/scrubbing the nickel plated EK-ACF fittings there's no longer any green residue but some signs of tarnishing (hopefully not corrosion). Reservoir has some minor amounts of white looking powder visible on the bottom POM/Delrin base. I don't think this is supposed to happen after just 7-8 months.

Not entirely sure what to try here though, I'll definitely be flushing my stuff with PT Nuke and maybe another flush of Primochill SysPrep (no idea if this even does anything to be honest), and then a few flushes with distilled or DI water before reassembling with coolant. Also will be replacing my older Swiftech radiator which could have had some microbial growth in air pockets. (It's really difficult to bleed top radiators with tight tubing runs where you can't turn the entire case upside down. Tilting and rocking can only do so much.) And I'm also considering swapping all my tubing to EK-ZMT, and maybe upping the mix ratio of XT-1 to 15%


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Hi Crew,

Can anyone confirm whether the Mayhems Blitz part 2 is ok on EK nickel blocks???

Cheers


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Hi Crew,
> 
> Can anyone confirm whether the Mayhems Blitz part 2 is ok on EK nickel blocks???
> 
> Cheers


Yes its safe with any nickel plated blocks.

Somewhere is this thread I have posted nickle plated block after has been cleaned with blitz.#2 I think this might be one of the pics:
Quote:


> http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/13690


After 2 years of 24-7 use and going through cleaning process with blitz it looks







, micro channel has tarnished slightly from the heat which is to be expected but other than that, the block looks like new again and its still in use for the next few years.


----------



## sena

How safe is aurora now, it would be great for my new build?
Here are the parts
Cpu block ek
Two ek blocks for new titanx
Four rads, one ut60, one xt45 and two st30.
Dual loop, two ek xres 140mm with two d5 pumps.
Hardline tubing.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## Gil80

How much is recommended to mix XT-1 clear with distilled water to make 1 litre cooling liquid?

Would the XT-1 really keep the loop clean for more than a year? since it have biocide and anti corrosion additives, it should be quite long, isn't it?

Did anyone use car coolant (Ethenol Glycol) mixed with distilled water and soft tubing and Acrylic reservoir/blocks?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> How safe is aurora now, it would be great for my new build?
> Here are the parts
> Cpu block ek
> Two ek blocks for new titanx
> Four rads, one ut60, one xt45 and two st30.
> Dual loop, two ek xres 140mm with two d5 pumps.
> Hardline tubing.
> Thanks in advance.


I've tried several times and only get about 4 months or so before it starts to fade. My most recent attempt sounds very similar to your setup (dual loop- 2gpu's with 2 rads and a cpu with 2 rads.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> How much is recommended to mix XT-1 clear with distilled water to make 1 litre cooling liquid?
> 
> Would the XT-1 really keep the loop clean for more than a year? since it have biocide and anti corrosion additives, it should be quite long, isn't it?
> 
> Did anyone use car coolant (Ethenol Glycol) mixed with distilled water and soft tubing and Acrylic reservoir/blocks?


Not sure on the mix ratio but I'd still do a fluid change at 1yr. It might be able to go longer but I wouldn't try it personally.


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I've tried several times and only get about 4 months or so before it starts to fade. My most recent attempt sounds very similar to your setup (dual loop- 2gpu's with 2 rads and a cpu with 2 rads.
> Not sure on the mix ratio but I'd still do a fluid change at 1yr. It might be able to go longer but I wouldn't try it personally.


Thx mate for info.
Sadly i dont have time to replace it every four months so i will stick with pastel.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Thx mate for info.
> Sadly i dont have time to replace it every four months so i will stick with pastel.


I feel you, I'm currently using distilled water since Aurora can be such a high maintenance product. I know some people here have gotten about a full year (TCO I believe?) but I'm not certain how. I know someone said to have your res's intake at the top and leave some air space so the water has to "fall" in and create turbulance to keep eveything suspended. I dunno though, its definitely not for the faint of heart, I kinda like the punishment of having to maintain every few months
edit: Pastel is BEAUTIFUL though







I need to get on some of that


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I feel you, I'm currently using distilled water since Aurora can be such a high maintenance product. I know some people here have gotten about a full year (TCO I believe?) but I'm not certain how. I know someone said to have your res's intake at the top and leave some air space so the water has to "fall" in and create turbulance to keep eveything suspended. I dunno though, its definitely not for the faint of heart, I kinda like the punishment of having to maintain every few months
> edit: Pastel is BEAUTIFUL though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to get on some of that


Do you know is pastel safe to use with petg hard tubing from bitspower?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sena*
> 
> Do you know is pastel safe to use with petg hard tubing from bitspower?


Indeed


----------



## sena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Indeed


Thx.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Hi Team,

Well I bit the bullet, ran distilled water through my new build and no leaks. Drained the loop, then mixed up the Mayhems Blitz part 2 to run through for 24 hours.

Did that, drained, rinsed, drained and rinsed again. Noticed that CPU block flow was slow and overall the system was hard to fill and bleed.

I noticed that the insert on the EK EVO CPU block had gone cloudy, just the insert. Then it hit me. My inlet and outlet was back to front









I simply installed the CPU block with the expected flow, but due to using different components and position the flow was reversed.

Worked out in the end. Amazing how much gunk and pieces came out of all NEW components, even with pre rinsed rads.

Did not get a lot of foaming though, but at that point, my Aquacomputer D5 pump was defaulting to 60%

Thank you all for replies and help. Really appreciate it.

Cheers


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Hi Team,
> 
> Well I bit the bullet, ran distilled water through my new build and no leaks. Drained the loop, then mixed up the Mayhems Blitz part 2 to run through for 24 hours.
> 
> Did that, drained, rinsed, drained and rinsed again. Noticed that CPU block flow was slow and overall the system was hard to fill and bleed.
> 
> I noticed that the insert on the EK EVO CPU block had gone cloudy, just the insert. Then it hit me. My inlet and outlet was back to front redface.gif
> 
> I simply installed the CPU block with the expected flow, but due to using different components and position the flow was reversed.
> 
> Worked out in the end. Amazing how much gunk and pieces came out of all NEW components, even with pre rinsed rads.
> 
> Did not get a lot of foaming though, but at that point, my Aquacomputer D5 pump was defaulting to 60%
> 
> Thank you all for replies and help. Really appreciate it.
> 
> Cheers


I've done my dual loop few times (2) already within 2 years and Blitz# 2 does very exceptional job of cleaning gunk and any crap you might have in your loop, honestly, using this stuff totally eliminates the need of taking any part of your loop, blocks apart for maintenance, use it anally and your loop will run as good as new.

*NOTE*: this is the part where people should pay extra attention....use max pumps speed while using Blitz# 2 to help the soap on steroids, because that's all it is, very concentrated soap to pick up whatever needs to be cleaned , otherwise a lot of that solution will get stack in your loop and that's where you will have issues bleeding and flow rate, blitz #2 foam gets stopped somewhere in your loop and prevents proper flow and bleeding of your final liquid.

I know Mick suggested to refill the loop with DI and flash it 2-3 times afterwards but unless your loop is very small ( CPU and GPU only with maybe small rad I would suggest doing at least 7-8 times each time 15-20 min to ensure that blitz is gone out of your loop totally, but after that you have well cleaned system.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> use it *anally* and your loop will run as good as new.


Could be dangerous, perhaps let the porn industry have a go at that first.


----------



## VSG

lol

Oh, Mayhems has the previously mentioned, VERY limited cooling kit out: https://mayhems.co.uk/starter-kits/mayhems-notorious-360-liquid-cooling-starter-kit/


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Could be dangerous, perhaps let the porn industry have a go at that first. lachen.gif


----------



## s74r1

Anyone know if it's safe to mix biocide such as PT Nuke with XT-1 or X1? Or will it screw up the PH and corrosion protection? XT-1 @ 10/90 ratio alone wasn't enough in my system to prevent green stuff (clear, no dyes were in use). I've also read that any air still trapped in radiators can cause gunk with certain types of coolants, but I'm not entirely clear on that. Thinking of trying the X1 instead of XT-1 in the meantime after I finish scrubbing and disinfecting all my parts.

Edit: Also, I know this is a Mayhems thread but does anyone know how EK EVO Clear compares to X1 or XT-1?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Anyone know if it's safe to mix biocide such as PT Nuke with XT-1 or X1? Or will it screw up the PH and corrosion protection? XT-1 @ 10/90 ratio alone wasn't enough in my system to prevent green stuff (clear, no dyes were in use). I've also read that any air still trapped in radiators can cause gunk with certain types of coolants, but I'm not entirely clear on that. Thinking of trying the X1 instead of XT-1 in the meantime after I finish scrubbing and disinfecting all my parts.
> 
> Edit: Also, I know this is a Mayhems thread but does anyone know how EK EVO Clear compares to X1 or XT-1?


everything is on mayhems website, just spare 3 minutes and check yourself in future.
X1 contains biocides, XT1 doesn't, at least description don't mention it.
It doesn mention that however:
Do not Mix Mayhems XT-1 with Mayhems Aurora, Pastel, X1 or Biocide Extreme.

XT1 is a Ethylene based coolant, and is not compatible with PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Flexible Tubing


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Anyone know if it's safe to mix biocide such as PT Nuke with XT-1 or X1? Or will it screw up the PH and corrosion protection? XT-1 @ 10/90 ratio alone wasn't enough in my system to prevent green stuff (clear, no dyes were in use). I've also read that any air still trapped in radiators can cause gunk with certain types of coolants, but I'm not entirely clear on that. Thinking of trying the X1 instead of XT-1 in the meantime after I finish scrubbing and disinfecting all my parts.
> 
> Edit: Also, I know this is a Mayhems thread but does anyone know how EK EVO Clear compares to X1 or XT-1?
> 
> 
> 
> everything is on mayhems website, just spare 3 minutes and check yourself in future.
> X1 contains biocides, XT1 doesn't, at least description don't mention it.
> It doesn mention that however:
> Do not Mix Mayhems XT-1 with Mayhems Aurora, Pastel, X1 or Biocide Extreme.
> 
> XT1 is a Ethylene based coolant, and is not compatible with PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Flexible Tubing
Click to expand...

I did spend more than 3 minutes on Mayhems website before posting, give me a little credit







and both do in fact mention they contain "all the biocides you'll need" which apparently isn't enough or I must have grown some super strain that is resistant. And yes I'm aware it's EG, I prefer EG over PG but the Mayhems website is rather vague about the differences other than they market XT-1 moreso for subzero stuff.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I did spend more than 3 minutes on Mayhems website before posting, give me a little credit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and both do in fact mention they contain "all the biocides you'll need" which apparently isn't enough or I must have grown some super strain that is resistant. And yes I'm aware it's EG, I prefer EG over PG but the Mayhems website is rather vague about the differences other than they market XT-1 moreso for subzero stuff.


it also mentions about XT1 to be kept in dark, maybe your pc is exposed to sun light?
what type of tubing did you use with it? Do you have any aluminium radiators in your loop or any chillers? These are the only two reasons I'd run XT1 in my loop, otherwise X1 or distilled with biocide if you want a clear coolant.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I did spend more than 3 minutes on Mayhems website before posting, give me a little credit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and both do in fact mention they contain "all the biocides you'll need" which apparently isn't enough or I must have grown some super strain that is resistant. And yes I'm aware it's EG, I prefer EG over PG but the Mayhems website is rather vague about the differences other than they market XT-1 moreso for subzero stuff.


Interesting stuff. I have two bottles of XT-1 clear and I'm about to redo my cooling loop and you got me worried there. If it says don't mix with biocide extreme but then you have algae, then what are we suppose to do?


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I did spend more than 3 minutes on Mayhems website before posting, give me a little credit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and both do in fact mention they contain "all the biocides you'll need" which apparently isn't enough or I must have grown some super strain that is resistant. And yes I'm aware it's EG, I prefer EG over PG but the Mayhems website is rather vague about the differences other than they market XT-1 moreso for subzero stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> it also mentions about XT1 to be kept in dark, maybe your pc is exposed to sun light?
> what type of tubing did you use with it? Do you have any aluminium radiators in your loop or any chillers? These are the only two reasons I'd run XT1 in my loop, otherwise X1 or distilled with biocide if you want a clear coolant.
Click to expand...

Says just to keep the bottle stored in a dark place for longevity I assume. I do have some red CFL case lighting though but biocides should prevent growth (which XT-1 says it does have biocide properties to it, but to what extent I'm unsure of).

Tubing is rubber Norprene 3/8" x 5/8", supposedly no leaching or plasticizer from Norprene and EPDM rubber. Tubing has been cleaned and re-used a lot with a lot of flushes too so I don't believe it's leaching anything but it's a possibility. No visible residue inside except where some of the barbs were.

No aluminium or chillers, but I have mixed nickel, chrome, copper, and brass in the loop I'd like to protect from corrosion. PT Nuke and distilled wasn't enough in the past, I started seeing signs of corrosion on some old Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings that I no longer use.

Reason I prefer EG based is it's less viscous than PG or VG and lasts longer before breaking down but apparently something is wrong with my loop or with the mix ratio or the XT-1 product itself since this occurred after only about 7 months. EG should technically be good for years before breaking down though but this is still short of the (probably overly cautious) recommended 9-12 month change period. The specs on paper look like it provides the same protection as X1 except that it's EG based and they market it toward sub-zero cooling but EG has been used for decades before all the "green" ROHS stuff came about.

On a side note, I noticed the green stuff mostly on EK fittings, the few chrome (or nickel?) bitspower barbs I have in the loop show no signs of it but maybe because they're smoother. My black fittings had a little bit of stuff inside but not much, mostly just the ones with bad inner paint jobs (non-bitspower ones). Copper CPU block didn't have any gunk or green stuff in it either, maybe EK-ACF fittings just have poor nickel plating (and the way you install them with a 8mm torx tends to scratch them some)

Edit: So... I'm not sure if I did something wrong or if XT-1 has some weird properties to it that doesn't protect as efficiently as EG should. EG car antifreeze has very good anti-corrosive properties, and is toxic to most biological stuff but they're all colored in some way along with a bittering agent for safety which is why I went with Mayhems for a more pure/clear EG (or so I thought). I mixed it with Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 too and did a complete coolant change/replacement after a week of running it just to be sure the coolant was clean.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Says just to keep the bottle stored in a dark place for longevity I assume. I do have some red CFL case lighting though but biocides should prevent growth (which XT-1 says it does have biocide properties to it, but to what extent I'm unsure of).
> 
> Tubing is rubber Norprene 3/8" x 5/8", supposedly no leaching or plasticizer from Norprene and EPDM rubber. Tubing has been cleaned and re-used a lot with a lot of flushes too so I don't believe it's leaching anything but it's a possibility. No visible residue inside except where some of the barbs were.
> 
> No aluminium or chillers, but I have mixed nickel, chrome, copper, and brass in the loop I'd like to protect from corrosion. PT Nuke and distilled wasn't enough in the past, I started seeing signs of corrosion on some old Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings that I no longer use.
> 
> Reason I prefer EG based is it's less viscous than PG or VG and lasts longer before breaking down but apparently something is wrong with my loop or with the mix ratio or the XT-1 product itself since this occurred after only about 7 months. EG should technically be good for years before breaking down though but this is still short of the (probably overly cautious) recommended 9-12 month change period. The specs on paper look like it provides the same protection as X1 except that it's EG based and they market it toward sub-zero cooling but EG has been used for decades before all the "green" ROHS stuff came about.
> 
> On a side note, I noticed the green stuff mostly on EK fittings, the few chrome (or nickel?) bitspower barbs I have in the loop show no signs of it but maybe because they're smoother. My black fittings had a little bit of stuff inside but not much, mostly just the ones with bad inner paint jobs (non-bitspower ones). Copper CPU block didn't have any gunk or green stuff in it either, maybe EK-ACF fittings just have poor nickel plating (and the way you install them with a 8mm torx tends to scratch them some)
> 
> Edit: So... I'm not sure if I did something wrong or if XT-1 has some weird properties to it that doesn't protect as efficiently as EG should. EG car antifreeze has very good anti-corrosive properties, and is toxic to most biological stuff but they're all colored in some way along with a bittering agent for safety which is why I went with Mayhems for a more pure/clear EG (or so I thought). I mixed it with Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 too and did a complete coolant change/replacement after a week of running it just to be sure the coolant was clean.


I've heard many bad reviews about Bitspower's and EK's nickel plating job. Just saying what heard.
Maybe it's brass that doesn't like XT1 and/or other metals? You say it's only EK fittings, I would chuck them out and replace with other brand and try X1 this time, see if that makes any difference.
Did you check Ph of your coolant before draining the loop?


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Says just to keep the bottle stored in a dark place for longevity I assume. I do have some red CFL case lighting though but biocides should prevent growth (which XT-1 says it does have biocide properties to it, but to what extent I'm unsure of).
> 
> Tubing is rubber Norprene 3/8" x 5/8", supposedly no leaching or plasticizer from Norprene and EPDM rubber. Tubing has been cleaned and re-used a lot with a lot of flushes too so I don't believe it's leaching anything but it's a possibility. No visible residue inside except where some of the barbs were.
> 
> No aluminium or chillers, but I have mixed nickel, chrome, copper, and brass in the loop I'd like to protect from corrosion. PT Nuke and distilled wasn't enough in the past, I started seeing signs of corrosion on some old Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings that I no longer use.
> 
> Reason I prefer EG based is it's less viscous than PG or VG and lasts longer before breaking down but apparently something is wrong with my loop or with the mix ratio or the XT-1 product itself since this occurred after only about 7 months. EG should technically be good for years before breaking down though but this is still short of the (probably overly cautious) recommended 9-12 month change period. The specs on paper look like it provides the same protection as X1 except that it's EG based and they market it toward sub-zero cooling but EG has been used for decades before all the "green" ROHS stuff came about.
> 
> On a side note, I noticed the green stuff mostly on EK fittings, the few chrome (or nickel?) bitspower barbs I have in the loop show no signs of it but maybe because they're smoother. My black fittings had a little bit of stuff inside but not much, mostly just the ones with bad inner paint jobs (non-bitspower ones). Copper CPU block didn't have any gunk or green stuff in it either, maybe EK-ACF fittings just have poor nickel plating (and the way you install them with a 8mm torx tends to scratch them some)
> 
> Edit: So... I'm not sure if I did something wrong or if XT-1 has some weird properties to it that doesn't protect as efficiently as EG should. EG car antifreeze has very good anti-corrosive properties, and is toxic to most biological stuff but they're all colored in some way along with a bittering agent for safety which is why I went with Mayhems for a more pure/clear EG (or so I thought). I mixed it with Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 too and did a complete coolant change/replacement after a week of running it just to be sure the coolant was clean.
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard many bad reviews about Bitspower's and EK's nickel plating job. Just saying what heard.
> Maybe it's brass that doesn't like XT1 and/or other metals? You say it's only EK fittings, I would chuck them out and replace with other brand and try X1 this time, see if that makes any difference.
> Did you check Ph of your coolant before draining the loop?
Click to expand...

*RE: Bitspower/EK nickel plating and paint:*

EK: I think EK fixed their nickel plating issue and it was mostly an issue with their blocks? You'd think a company that is in the business of making nickel plated blocks would make decent plated fittings too but I'm not so sure now. Regarding paint, the EK angled fittings' haven't fared too well on the inside. The inner paint jobs are not great even new, most of mine came with a scratch inside, likely due to the manufacturing process. They have not held up well and feel rough inside. Scrubbing the inside with rolled up coffee filters shows a lot of black on it.
Bitspower: I haven't done much research into their plating but I assumed if their paint jobs were good they wouldn't skimp on the plating. I only have a few in nickel which seem to have held up perfectly. My black ones have held up pretty well too and still smooth inside.
Regarding EK barb/comp fittings; I only have experience with their new line of EK-ACF fittings (designed for rubber tubing). I have many complaints about these. Half of the inner barb is hex shaped to tighten with a torx wrench/hex key and have sharp corners. This also narrows the flow channel a bit and creates some rough turbulent spots. Then there's their EK branded hex key which seems too large to fit and has sharp edges it's almost impossible not to scratch the plating, I can only imagine what kind of pitting must occur - I had to sand down the edges of the tip to be slightly rounded just to get it to fit without scraping the plating too badly. They really need to ship them like this, most of my torx bits have a slightly rounded tip to help ease it's way in. Then there's their compression cuffs which feel like cheep thin anodized or painted aluminum (except for their nickel versions), the color wears off a bit or gets filthy just from tightening them - and good luck trying to tighten them without sore thumbs even with their EK brand EPDM tubing. (I'm using some slightly thinner Norprene instead, which fit much easier).
As much as I love the red cuffs from the EK-ACF I think I will be replacing them. Even the smooth parts of the inner barb and the threading had some dirty gunk/green stuff on it too but it was worst around the hex shape part.

*RE: Brass:*
Almost every water cooling fitting is brass and then painted or plated. Most radiators are brass with copper fins too. Brass shouldn't be a problem since it has almost identical galvanic properties as copper. Nickel and decent chrome is somewhat close as well.

*RE: PH:*
I don't have a PH tester, but I do still have the old coolant (Didn't want to just dump EG down the sink). I'll have to buy one eventually, but XT-1 claims it has PH balancers but I assume that changes over time. I did do a 1-2 week run initially with XT-1 to hopefully absorb ions and other junk before changing coolant again to a fresh XT-1 mix, but perhaps something was skewing it over time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> I did spend more than 3 minutes on Mayhems website before posting, give me a little credit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and both do in fact mention they contain "all the biocides you'll need" which apparently isn't enough or I must have grown some super strain that is resistant. And yes I'm aware it's EG, I prefer EG over PG but the Mayhems website is rather vague about the differences other than they market XT-1 moreso for subzero stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting stuff. I have two bottles of XT-1 clear and I'm about to redo my cooling loop and you got me worried there. If it says don't mix with biocide extreme but then you have algae, then what are we suppose to do?
Click to expand...

Not entirely sure XT-1 is to blame here, but I have a feeling some of the additives they put in XT-1 to make it less toxic may affect it's anti-microbial properties though that's just my speculation. tbh XT-1 probably wasn't meant for common loops anyways and if used at sub-zero temps there's very little need for any anti-microbial stuff. X1 is for normal people







. Also, some of my loop started off a little dirty to begin with since I had a used block and radiator that previously had a bad algea issue from running just distilled for a month waiting on parts (which I thought a vinegar cleaning and a PT Nuke flush would be good enough). I was also never able to fully bleed my loop due to radiator/res orientations and tight tubing runs, so air pockets could have contributed to my issues, but it also could be the EK fittings which are hard not to scratch (which probably results in pitting and lots of metals/minerals for microbes to feed off?).

I dunno, I think I'm just gonna try X1 Clear or EK EVO Clear this time and get rid of the EK fittings. Also replacing my old dirty top rad.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> *RE: Bitspower/EK nickel plating and paint:*
> 
> EK: I think EK fixed their nickel plating issue and it was mostly an issue with their blocks? You'd think a company that is in the business of making nickel plated blocks would make decent plated fittings too but I'm not so sure now. Regarding paint, the EK angled fittings' haven't fared too well on the inside. The inner paint jobs are not great even new, most of mine came with a scratch inside, likely due to the manufacturing process. They have not held up well and feel rough inside. Scrubbing the inside with rolled up coffee filters shows a lot of black on it.
> Bitspower: I haven't done much research into their plating but I assumed if their paint jobs were good they wouldn't skimp on the plating. I only have a few in nickel which seem to have held up perfectly. My black ones have held up pretty well too and still smooth inside.
> Regarding EK barb/comp fittings; I only have experience with their new line of EK-ACF fittings (designed for rubber tubing). I have many complaints about these. Half of the inner barb is hex shaped to tighten with a torx wrench/hex key and have sharp corners. This also narrows the flow channel a bit and creates some rough turbulent spots. Then there's their EK branded hex key which seems too large to fit and has sharp edges it's almost impossible not to scratch the plating, I can only imagine what kind of pitting must occur - I had to sand down the edges of the tip to be slightly rounded just to get it to fit without scraping the plating too badly. They really need to ship them like this, most of my torx bits have a slightly rounded tip to help ease it's way in. Then there's their compression cuffs which feel like cheep thin anodized or painted aluminum (except for their nickel versions), the color wears off a bit or gets filthy just from tightening them - and good luck trying to tighten them without sore thumbs even with their EK brand EPDM tubing. (I'm using some slightly thinner Norprene instead, which fit much easier).
> As much as I love the red cuffs from the EK-ACF I think I will be replacing them. Even the smooth parts of the inner barb and the threading had some dirty gunk/green stuff on it too but it was worst around the hex shape part.
> 
> *RE: Brass:*
> Almost every water cooling fitting is brass and then painted or plated. Most radiators are brass with copper fins too. Brass shouldn't be a problem since it has almost identical galvanic properties as copper. Nickel and decent chrome is somewhat close as well.
> 
> *RE: PH:*
> I don't have a PH tester, but I do still have the old coolant (Didn't want to just dump EG down the sink). I'll have to buy one eventually, but XT-1 claims it has PH balancers but I assume that changes over time. I did do a 1-2 week run initially with XT-1 to hopefully absorb ions and other junk before changing coolant again to a fresh XT-1 mix, but perhaps something was skewing it over time.
> Not entirely sure XT-1 is to blame here, but I have a feeling some of the additives they put in XT-1 to make it less toxic may affect it's anti-microbial properties though that's just my speculation. tbh XT-1 probably wasn't meant for common loops anyways and if used at sub-zero temps there's very little need for any anti-microbial stuff. X1 is for normal people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Also, some of my loop started off a little dirty to begin with since I had a used block and radiator that previously had a bad algea issue from running just distilled for a month waiting on parts (which I thought a vinegar cleaning and a PT Nuke flush would be good enough). I was also never able to fully bleed my loop due to radiator/res orientations and tight tubing runs, so air pockets could have contributed to my issues, but it also could be the EK fittings which are hard not to scratch (which probably results in pitting and lots of metals/minerals for microbes to feed off?).
> 
> I dunno, I think I'm just gonna try X1 Clear or EK EVO Clear this time and get rid of the EK fittings. Also replacing my old dirty top rad.


personaly, never been a Ek fan, I think their products are ugly and bad quality, gpu plexi waterblocks look like dremeled in the garage.
I've used Barrow fittings before and their paint job and overall quality is sometimes better than Bitspower, and they come in every possible size and colour. If you live in UK there's wide range of Barrow products on ebay.
If you want to try xt1 again I have a bottle laying around which is never gonna be used, happy to send it to you along with couple of Ph indicators


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> personaly, never been a Ek fan, I think their products are ugly and bad quality, gpu plexi waterblocks look like dremeled in the garage.


I agree 110%


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> *RE: Bitspower/EK nickel plating and paint:*
> 
> EK: I think EK fixed their nickel plating issue and it was mostly an issue with their blocks? You'd think a company that is in the business of making nickel plated blocks would make decent plated fittings too but I'm not so sure now. Regarding paint, the EK angled fittings' haven't fared too well on the inside. The inner paint jobs are not great even new, most of mine came with a scratch inside, likely due to the manufacturing process. They have not held up well and feel rough inside. Scrubbing the inside with rolled up coffee filters shows a lot of black on it.
> Bitspower: I haven't done much research into their plating but I assumed if their paint jobs were good they wouldn't skimp on the plating. I only have a few in nickel which seem to have held up perfectly. My black ones have held up pretty well too and still smooth inside.
> Regarding EK barb/comp fittings; I only have experience with their new line of EK-ACF fittings (designed for rubber tubing). I have many complaints about these. Half of the inner barb is hex shaped to tighten with a torx wrench/hex key and have sharp corners. This also narrows the flow channel a bit and creates some rough turbulent spots. Then there's their EK branded hex key which seems too large to fit and has sharp edges it's almost impossible not to scratch the plating, I can only imagine what kind of pitting must occur - I had to sand down the edges of the tip to be slightly rounded just to get it to fit without scraping the plating too badly. They really need to ship them like this, most of my torx bits have a slightly rounded tip to help ease it's way in. Then there's their compression cuffs which feel like cheep thin anodized or painted aluminum (except for their nickel versions), the color wears off a bit or gets filthy just from tightening them - and good luck trying to tighten them without sore thumbs even with their EK brand EPDM tubing. (I'm using some slightly thinner Norprene instead, which fit much easier).
> As much as I love the red cuffs from the EK-ACF I think I will be replacing them. Even the smooth parts of the inner barb and the threading had some dirty gunk/green stuff on it too but it was worst around the hex shape part.
> 
> *RE: Brass:*
> Almost every water cooling fitting is brass and then painted or plated. Most radiators are brass with copper fins too. Brass shouldn't be a problem since it has almost identical galvanic properties as copper. Nickel and decent chrome is somewhat close as well.
> 
> *RE: PH:*
> I don't have a PH tester, but I do still have the old coolant (Didn't want to just dump EG down the sink). I'll have to buy one eventually, but XT-1 claims it has PH balancers but I assume that changes over time. I did do a 1-2 week run initially with XT-1 to hopefully absorb ions and other junk before changing coolant again to a fresh XT-1 mix, but perhaps something was skewing it over time.
> Not entirely sure XT-1 is to blame here, but I have a feeling some of the additives they put in XT-1 to make it less toxic may affect it's anti-microbial properties though that's just my speculation. tbh XT-1 probably wasn't meant for common loops anyways and if used at sub-zero temps there's very little need for any anti-microbial stuff. X1 is for normal people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Also, some of my loop started off a little dirty to begin with since I had a used block and radiator that previously had a bad algea issue from running just distilled for a month waiting on parts (which I thought a vinegar cleaning and a PT Nuke flush would be good enough). I was also never able to fully bleed my loop due to radiator/res orientations and tight tubing runs, so air pockets could have contributed to my issues, but it also could be the EK fittings which are hard not to scratch (which probably results in pitting and lots of metals/minerals for microbes to feed off?).
> 
> I dunno, I think I'm just gonna try X1 Clear or EK EVO Clear this time and get rid of the EK fittings. Also replacing my old dirty top rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> personaly, never been a Ek fan, I think their products are ugly and bad quality, gpu plexi waterblocks look like dremeled in the garage.
> I've used Barrow fittings before and their paint job and overall quality is sometimes better than Bitspower, and they come in every possible size and colour. If you live in UK there's wide range of Barrow products on ebay.
> If you want to try xt1 again I have a bottle laying around which is never gonna be used, happy to send it to you along with couple of Ph indicators
Click to expand...

*RE: EK:*
EK GPU blocks aren't _too_ bad looking IMO, the black covered ones match well but awful to have to disassemble to check for issues. EVGA uses 'em in the HydroCopper series. But most fullcover blocks are CNC'd odd looking inside anyways. They use good thermal pads at least.

My TITAN X block was a Aquacomputer Kryographics combined with their heatpipe attached backplate which looked great but corners cut everywhere. (Direct vRAM contact, needing thermal paste. covering 24 GDDR5's cost me about $30 in paste between redoing it multiple times. paste viscosity and any slight PCB bending or uneven components caused it to loose contact. thermal pads are more than sufficient for vRAM. Also they didn't have pads on the chokes like EK did, and the block amplified coil whine like crazy for some reason. Oh and the heatpipe backplate was mostly a gimmick, it barely made contact with the coolant)

This time I went with an EK for my 1080 but mostly cause it was the only one available, the Koolance one actually looks surprisingly good - something I thought I'd never say but their products seem to keep getting better.

*RE: Barrow:*
Yeah I've heard good things about them, comparable to bitspower supposedly but hard to find in the U.S., but probably worth it to buy a ton of aliexpress or something. Some of the EK angled fittings look strikingly similar I wonder who their supplier is.

I've already got way too many fittings though (mostly bitspower, some EK, some Koolance, and recently some XSPC 90° fittings which can take a LOT of abuse.

*RE: XT-1/PH strips:*
I've got about 350ml of XT-1 left but I appreciate the offer








I bought some EK EVO Clear concentrate for some reason to try, but maybe I should just get a Blitz cleaning kit and see if that solves my issues with XT-1 so I can use that again. Or maybe some Dawn dish soap in the meantime.

PH Strips I could definitely use but I should probably just buy some off Amazon or PPCs for about $10, can't find a local pet store within transportation range.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> personaly, never been a Ek fan, I think their products are ugly and bad quality, gpu plexi waterblocks look like dremeled in the garage.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree 110%
Click to expand...

What GPU blocks do you use then? Last I checked I think the EK Supremacy was top dog on CPU but I dunno now. Maybe the XSPC raystorm or something. I have an Apogee XL mainly for PPCs's beautiful Asus ROG LED plate, even though it has sucky flow restriction. It's in my avatar pic with EK-ACF red comp fittings (Tip for anyone else with this block: use red tail light fixing tape to get true red instead of orange, or some semi-transparent red modeling paint)


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> What GPU blocks do you use then? Last I checked I think the EK Supremacy was top dog on CPU but I dunno now. Maybe the XSPC raystorm or something. I have an Apogee XL mainly for PPCs's beautiful Asus ROG LED plate, even though it has sucky flow restriction. It's in my avatar pic with EK-ACF red comp fittings (Tip for anyone else with this block: use red tail light fixing tape to get true red instead of orange, or some semi-transparent red modeling paint)


I've had so many different blocks in the past 3-4 years and *ALL* top notch dogs........ CPU e.g. EK Sup.EVO, Koolance 380i, cuplex kryos XT silver edition and now HEATKILLER IV PRO Nickel.

The same when comes to GPU blocks and now I use Heatkiller black edition for my 3x Titan Black and there is no doubt about 1 thing.... Heatkiller and Aquacomputer has by far and I mean the best quality you can imagine I would not go with any other brand as far is that aspect goes.

When comes to cooling... they all seem to be in close range 1-2 C difference at MAX when comes to GPU blocks but as far is CPU block, Heatkiller is I thing the winner.

EVO supreme that I sold shortly I got it maybe 1-1.5 years ago, it was good block, running 3 C degree warmer cooling my 4960X oppose to Heatkiller, but the main reason I didn't want to keep it was the quality I will not get EK product again...Period due to their quality, it's simply not there, material they use (it's very soft easy to damage) some parts/blocks look unfinished......you would have to see and feel side by side product Heatkiller/Aquacomputer vs EK to appreciate the craftsmanship.

Example..you get EK blocks there are restrictions what liquid to use or cleaning solvents to choose and if for any reason they find out you haven't follow...warranty is voided.
Aquacomputer and Heatkiller don't mind you use liquid and cleaning solvents of your choice, they know that their nickel plating is solid that should tell you something

To add 1 more thing, reason why many people use EK is the speed of their production, they are the first to make blocks available for new GPUs/ CPUs oppose to others taking their time for testing's and make their blocks appealing and not to rushing for money, that doesn't men EK blocks are not good, no I'm not saying that at all, It's absolutely someone's personal preference and I guess depends on how meticulous yu are and care about asthenias and quality.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I've had so many different blocks in the past 3-4 years and *ALL* top notch dogs........ CPU e.g. EK Sup.EVO, Koolance 380i, cuplex kryos XT silver edition and now HEATKILLER IV PRO Nickel.
> 
> The same when comes to GPU blocks and now I use Heatkiller black edition for my 3x Titan Black and there is no doubt about 1 thing.... Heatkiller and Aquacomputer has by far and I mean the best quality you can imagine I would not go with any other brand as far is that aspect goes.
> 
> When comes to cooling... they all seem to be in close range 1-2 C difference at MAX when comes to GPU blocks but as far is CPU block, Heatkiller is I thing the winner.
> 
> EVO supreme that I sold shortly I got it maybe 1-1.5 years ago, it was good block, running 3 C degree warmer cooling my 4960X oppose to Heatkiller, but the main reason I didn't want to keep it was the quality I will not get EK product again...Period due to their quality, it's simply not there, material they use (it's very soft easy to damage) some parts/blocks look unfinished......you would have to see and feel side by side product Heatkiller/Aquacomputer vs EK to appreciate the craftsmanship.
> 
> Example..you get EK blocks there are restrictions what liquid to use or cleaning solvents to choose and if for any reason they find out you haven't follow...warranty is voided.
> Aquacomputer and Heatkiller don't mind you use liquid and cleaning solvents of your choice, they know that their nickel plating is solid that should tell you something
> 
> To add 1 more thing, reason why many people use EK is the speed of their production, they are the first to make blocks available for new GPUs/ CPUs oppose to others taking their time for testing's and make their blocks appealing and not to rushing for money, that doesn't men EK blocks are not good, no I'm not saying that at all, It's absolutely someone's personal preference and I guess depends on how meticulous yu are and care about asthenias and quality.


I agree 110%









I'm using Watercool Heatkiller IV pro clear version for my cpu and quality is top, you can see on metal and plexi that machining and finish is a different league to EK.
I'm using EK block for my gpu however. it's the only one available for my card







while temps are ok, the look of it is absolutely disgusting(I have clear version), machining marks are so bad, it looks like made with some chisel or dremeled by a kid. I'm running yellow transparent coolant which makes it look even worse(pastel coolant somehow hide these machining marks), the whole block looks and feels very cheap and chinese.
It is very easy to see why german WC products are quite expensive, Watercool and Aquacomputer use much more advanced and way more expensive tools and machines to make their products.

back on subject: I've heard EK buys coolant from Mayhems and just labels it so clear EK coolant is Mayhems in fact?
I've used many different Mayhems products(pastel, non stain dyes, biocides, x1s) and never had a single issue with it, absolutely great products. At the moment using Aquacomputer Double Protect Pro yellow(the only coolant that has a colour I was after, any other yellow coolants look like radiation fluid), it has all biocides and additives and comes in many colours(also clear).


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> [...]Heatkiller and Aquacomputer has by far and I mean the best quality you can imagine I would not go with any other brand as far is that aspect goes....[...]
> [...]you would have to see and feel side by side product Heatkiller/Aquacomputer vs EK to appreciate the craftsmanship.[...]


Interesting insight, sorry to quote a couple lines from you but I had some input on this:

I've only owned one Aquacomputer (the TITAN X Kryographics Nickel w/ Smoke Black acrylic & ACX heatpipe backplate) so maybe it's a bad example but my block came with a scratch in the nickel on top left and a dent in one of the vRAM contact points. I have watched their production videos though and it's impressive but this is bad QC. They also use the cheapest 6w/mK thermal pads on VRMs, and they claim the directly cooled vRAM is a bonus as apposed to thermal pads but again I think that's cost cutting, along with some other chokes and caps that had no contact with the waterblock. They also basically admitted the ACX heatpipe backplate was kind of a gimmick and not very functional, I offered many suggestions, all of which they rejected due to "manufacturing cost" even slight changes that would NOT increase cost -_- Also, no frills like thermal paste etc but I can accept that for a premium product but I was not impressed with their TITAN X block. I also had to add a ton of ramsinks to the top of the backplate just to keep the backplate temps down, which the heatpipe was supposed to do but barely made contact with coolant at all and might as well not have been there at all.

Edit: The Aquacomputer block IS gorgeous though I will admit, and definitely some fine engineering.

Edit2: I'll have to give Heatkiller a try next GPU upgrade. (1080Ti or 2080 maybe)


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> back on subject: I've heard EK buys coolant from Mayhems and just labels it so clear EK coolant is Mayhems in fact?


Hmm, I've heard that rumor as well, and EK recommends both EKoolant or Mayhems


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I've only owned one Aquacomputer (the TITAN X Kryographics Nickel w/ Smoke Black acrylic & ACX heatpipe backplate) so maybe it's a bad example but my block came with a scratch in the nickel on top left and a dent in one of the vRAM contact points. I have watched their production videos though and it's impressive but this is bad QC. They also use the cheapest 6w/mK thermal pads on VRMs, and they claim the directly cooled vRAM is a bonus as apposed to thermal pads but again I think that's cost cutting, along with some other chokes and caps that had no contact with the waterblock. They also basically admitted the ACX heatpipe backplate was kind of a gimmick and not very functional, I offered many suggestions, all of which they rejected due to "manufacturing cost" even slight changes that would NOT increase cost -_- Also, no frills like thermal paste etc but I can accept that for a premium product but I was not impressed with their TITAN X block. I also had to add a ton of ramsinks to the top of the backplate just to keep the backplate temps down, which the heatpipe was supposed to do but barely made contact with coolant at all and might as well not have been there at all.
> 
> Edit: The Aquacomputer block IS gorgeous though I will admit, and definitely some fine engineering.
> 
> Edit2: I'll have to give Heatkiller a try next GPU upgrade. (1080Ti or 2080 maybe)


Don't get me wrong, there are imperfections in any brand or should I say anything that is rated "high quality" product today, you might come across some really crappy batch or even product alone that wouldn't be acceptable by any means, but generally speaking there are brands that thrive on quality that is higher than standard and to me , at least in my book and that is totally personal opinion I would only chose:

#1 Heatkiller quality and performance (mostly waterbloks) that's what my system is based on.

#2 Aquacomputer quality and performance (waterbloks and their controllers e.g. Aquaero, PowerAdjust) I own several of their controllers, priceless









Just like with fittings. I use Bitspower fitting Black Matte for over 7 years and I have in my current workstation about 70-80 of them, worth probably easy about $1600-$2000 alone.....non have failed so far, it doesn't mean that they have never failed on anyone else , I'm sure some will disagree with me, they aren't perfect are.

About year ago I had mini-valve that the handle broke, Bitspower have send me brand new 1 I think that's pretty low rating of failure.

Anyways, there are brands that have prove themselves over the years to be beyond exceptional but even among those there are some defectives.

I know I went way of topic here, sorry about that but you never know, you might find this helpful the next time you choosing your parts, who knows


----------



## s74r1

Thanks for the input on blocks, will definitely take into consideration when I upgrade.

Back on topic, to hopefully prevent future algea issues and/or corrosion I'm thinking of trying the Mayhems Blitz system, unfortunately PPCs is out of stock of both the standalone part1 and also the full kit. Also they don't seem to carry the Pro kit, but they sell the digital PH meter separately (but needs calibration powder/liquid bought separately which would add to cost...). I'll maybe check some other stores. I was thinking using part1 just for my radiators and tubing (I assume part1 is unsafe for acrylic), but Is part2 alone sufficient enough to clean gunk and any residual microbial stuff? I've tried everything from hot vinegar, hot distilled, PT Nuke flushes, etc... but I still feel like my rads are dirty and possibly contributing to my issues. I'll probably try some dish soap next if I can't get my hands on some Blitz (I hear Dawn original dish soap is safe if flushed enough afterwards).

Regarding PH testing; There's also many PH meters on Amazon that look identical to Mayhems but I assume they might not be on par with Mayhems' QC. I've read some bad reviews on Amazon of some meters needing constant recalibration or being inaccurate. The cheaper option would be test strips but most PH test strip reviews I've read are awful (inaccurate, etc).

What PH should I be aiming for anyways with X1/XT-1? And what levels might cause bacteria/algae/fungi to thrive in? (I still want to test my old coolant's PH, and to ensure any future coolant is at reasonable levels).


----------



## DrFreeman35

Ok I'm looking into doing 2 separate loops, and wanted to go Extreme Pastel White + Pastel Black or some other option. Has anyone found a "Black" that actually.... Well looks black. I've read through a bunch of this thread, and other forums. Most are saying the blacks have different colors to them, green hue, or turn to a hot chocolate color. Anyone know a good dye or way to make it a deep rich black? If not I'll have to find a different color to fit into my build. Thanks

Edit: I also saw on Jaystwocents that he didn't want to use Pastels anymore, a lot of "gunk" left behind and colors changing. Is this because of heat? Or what issues should I be aware of?


----------



## Mayhem

JZ is old news and the issue have been fixed with his set up, JZ still uses Mayhems coolants. Mayhems and JZ are in constant communication ref issues and fixes which is the same with all mayhems customers..

To make Black use Purple dye + Yellow dye and adjust as necessary approx a 2 to 1 mix of Purple to Yellow dye. Add more Yellow to deepen the colour. It does take a lot of dye to mix in pastel were as clear coolant takes less dye.


----------



## 414347

You can get Blitz or anything else directly from Mayhems, thats what I do, the shipping is next to nothing but I guess thats also depends where you at, I'm in Canada and Blitz Kit and Biocide costs me $6-7, thats pretty releasable.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> JZ is old news and the issue have been fixed with his set up, JZ still uses Mayhems coolants. Mayhems and JZ are in constant communication ref issues and fixes which is the same with all mayhems customers..
> 
> To make Black use Purple dye + Yellow dye and adjust as necessary approx a 2 to 1 mix of Purple to Yellow dye. Add more Yellow to deepen the colour. It does take a lot of dye to mix in pastel were as clear coolant takes less dye.


Nice of "you" (Whoever this is now, since Mick was removed) to pop in after a week or two of Inactivity.

TCO


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> JZ is old news and the issue have been fixed with his set up, JZ still uses Mayhems coolants. Mayhems and JZ are in constant communication ref issues and fixes which is the same with all mayhems customers..
> 
> To make Black use Purple dye + Yellow dye and adjust as necessary approx a 2 to 1 mix of Purple to Yellow dye. Add more Yellow to deepen the colour. It does take a lot of dye to mix in pastel were as clear coolant takes less dye.


Thanks, and I saw the Update with J2C. Was just throwing that question out there to anyone using them recently. Much appreciate the reply.


----------



## Snaporz

I got my blitz pro system from modmymods. Was in stock 2 weeks ago when I was putting all of my stuff together.

My build is all EK stuff (360 and 480 rad, push/pull with 120mm Vardars, Res, dual d5 revo pump, fittings) and despite my inexperience it looks all top notch to me. Looking forward to getting the Titan X Pascal block next week!

Running Mayhems Extreme White Pastel in mine and loving it so far.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> JZ is old news and the issue have been fixed with his set up, JZ still uses Mayhems coolants. Mayhems and JZ are in constant communication ref issues and fixes which is the same with all mayhems customers..
> 
> To make Black use Purple dye + Yellow dye and adjust as necessary approx a 2 to 1 mix of Purple to Yellow dye. Add more Yellow to deepen the colour. It does take a lot of dye to mix in pastel were as clear coolant takes less dye.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice of "you" (Whoever this is now, since Mick was removed) to pop in after a week or two of Inactivity.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

its Mick, ive been told i wont get any more infractions for posting information now pertaining to what were up to. Before i gained to many way, way to quickly from some mods and this was the main reason i no longer posted. My team also have access to this account to post any updates that need to go up. It seem as the local mods have now backed off a little and i personally have been told via Facebook / Pm's they wont be as aggressive..

I've read though a few comments above and seen that some users seem to have some kind of build up with XT1 which normally is impossible if instructions are followed to the full extent of advise followed on the bottle. How ever if it is alga then the they must be a reason behind it.

Normally this is down to low concentrations of the mixture that is down to the user to mix (we do not make a premixed XT1). So say a user mixes XT1 at 5% then they are using less biocide and inhibitor in there system and due to the low ratios they must replenish there coolants more often. The upside of such a low ratio is a higher heat carrying capability but the down side is less protection. If the user mix to a 15 to 20% mix ratio then they can use the coolant for much longer periods how ever the heat carrying capability of the coolant is less.

How ever saying all of that i have developed and crated a new XT1 Plus coolant that uses more biocide and inhibitor in the concentrate fluid making it better for mini ITX, AIO and high heat systems (38c+). this new coolant also has many other base chemical changes for lucubration of pumps and agents to aid in discoloration of colored fluids. You'll fully understand its not a 5 minute job creating such fluids and has taken well over 6+ months to come up with the new formula and months of testing to make sure it works. There is one down side though it will cost more to make so will cost more to sell.

We have Colourd tubing coming out soon with some very nice proprieties to aid keeping a system clean but will talk about that soon once we have a release date. This will come out in UV white, UV blue, UV red but only in two of the most popular sizes as we personally are not going to waste our time and money on sizes that are not big sellers and for only one or two obscure fittings. The new Tubing is developed once again from the ground up here at Mayhems for water cooling. We do not take products and just rehash them to make a quick buck. The new tubing will be competitively priced and may raise a few more eye brows once we release it.

We have also released a small amount of Mayhems Water cooling kits for the new users out there to entice new users to our hobby. We feel that many users are scared off the hobby due to the cost and this introduction kit is to help new users get into the game at just above AIO prices but also the ability to expand there kits further with GPU blocks ect ect. The kits compris of hand picked products that "I" would consider a good base for a start up kit. The kits are very limited though and will only be released in small batches when we get time to do it. (this basically is a gift from us to new users).

On top of all of this we have re invented the wheel on our dyes and all the dye ranges and coolants are being upgraded to fix issues with colour change how ever we are limited to what we can do as we simply cannot fix issues were users do not clean there "dirty" rads. If users use our blitz kits to there full extent and follow our advise and advise by users on these forums colour change issues will lesson. There seems to be more issues as of late how ever we can easily put that down to sales ratios as our sales have more than doubled year in year out and obviously that means more users and new users using our products. How ever with the new support in place we can now easily find common denominators for issues and advise or reformulate products to fix issues as they arise.

One things we have noticed and this is common in Germany, The use of aggressive acids being used to clean rads AKA Domestic cleaning products. They then add coolants and dyes and wonder why things go wrong. We strongly suggest users do not use such products not because we want to sell you our kits but because you are ruining your own kits and the damage you can cause is long term.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I've read though a few comments above and seen that some users seem to have some kind of build up with XT1 which normally is impossible if instructions are followed to the full extent of advise followed on the bottle. How ever if it is alga then the they must be a reason behind it.
> 
> Normally this is down to low concentrations of the mixture that is down to the user to mix (we do not make a premixed XT1). So say a user mixes XT1 at 5% then they are using less biocide and inhibitor in there system and due to the low ratios they must replenish there coolants more often. The upside of such a low ratio is a higher heat carrying capability but the down side is less protection. If the user mix to a 15 to 20% mix ratio then they can use the coolant for much longer periods how ever the heat carrying capability of the coolant is less.


Hmm, so 10% isn't enough of a ratio for 7 months of usage to prevent algea? And 38c-42c might require more of a ratio? Does XT-1 break down too fast at those temps? EG based car antifreeze is subject to MUCH higher temps and lasts a long time, albeit they use much higher ratios to water and is also toxic, XT-1 claims to be non-toxic so I assume it's not a pure form of EG and the additives might affect it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> How ever saying all of that i have developed and crated a new XT1 Plus coolant that uses more biocide and inhibitor in the concentrate fluid making it better for mini ITX, AIO and high heat systems (38c+). this new coolant also has many other base chemical changes for lucubration of pumps and agents to aid in discoloration of colored fluids. You'll fully understand its not a 5 minute job creating such fluids and has taken well over 6+ months to come up with the new formula and months of testing to make sure it works. There is one down side though it will cost more to make so will cost more to sell.


Nice, any ETA on the XT1 Plus coolant? I may return my newly purchased and unused 250ml XT-1 if it's coming somewhat soon. There's not many clear/uncolored options for EG based coolants anymore. (I prefer a clean long life coolant over others that degrade too quickly or leave gunk behind, and car antifreeze is always colored along with a bittering agent for safety)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> One things we have noticed and this is common in Germany, The use of aggressive acids being used to clean rads AKA Domestic cleaning products. They then add coolants and dyes and wonder why things go wrong. We strongly suggest users do not use such products not because we want to sell you our kits but because you are ruining your own kits and the damage you can cause is long term.


Would "domestic cleaning products" include quick flushes/shaking with diluted white distilled vinegar? Or diluted Dawn original dish soap? I know vinegar can be aggressive and eat copper/brass if left in a radiator for too long, but dish soap should be relatively harmless as long as it's not an aggressive brand. Swiftech has even recommended a drop or two in their AIO's to help lubricate and get rid of bubbles (though I don't know the long term affects of keeping it in the system 24/7, I'd flush it out thoroughly if I did a soap rinse. Swiftech also uses about 20%/80% or 30%/70% PG mix ratio of some form of antifreeze in their AIOs)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *its Mick*,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ive been told i wont get any more infractions for posting information now pertaining to what were up to. Before i gained to many way, way to quickly from some mods and this was the main reason i no longer posted. My team also have access to this account to post any updates that need to go up. It seem as the local mods have now backed off a little and i personally have been told via Facebook / Pm's they wont be as aggressive..












Well Ill be Damn!! Good to have you back Mate! I used the Aurora 2 for as long as I could (8months), but I hadn't flushed the rads before the build so it was more purple than red towards the end. All of the particles were there. Just wanted to Report back. It was my first package from the UK.









TCO


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Not to somewhat derail the current topic of conversation, but is Blue Berry pastel still in production? It seems to be very hard to find this day and age. Thanks!


----------



## 414347

Nice to hear the MAN himself, thanks Mick


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Not to somewhat derail the current topic of conversation, but is Blue Berry pastel still in production? It seems to be very hard to find this day and age. Thanks!


It is.

This is the Link for PPC.

You might just have to call them to see when the next batch is coming in.

TCO


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Thanks! I hate how PPCs removes the price when it's out of stock


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Thanks! I hate how PPCs removes the price when it's out of stock


Concentrates are usually 20$ USD

TCO


----------



## Mayhem

XT1 Plus will be a few weeks before i can get around to making it in bulk, currently swiftech are using it in there Aio's how ever i have to design labels, bar codes and introduce them once i get some time free. ATM were hand making & shipping 3,000+ Ltrs of coolant a week and this is taking up a lot of time.

10% ratio should last around 9 months how ever the temps are very extreme and could possibly burn out the Biocide much quicker as it was deved for systems around -60 to 35c (ratio dependent). Car coolants are a different ball game and afraid to say we do not make car coolants atm and don't use car coolants.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Not to somewhat derail the current topic of conversation, but is Blue Berry pastel still in production? It seems to be very hard to find this day and age. Thanks!


Its still in production but now called pastel blue, weve dropped some names now to make life easier.


----------



## Barefooter

Great to have you back Mick!


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Concentrates are usually 20$ USD
> 
> TCO


Yea, thanks. Prices very by 4 or 5 dollars here and there. Shipping is what gets me lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its still in production but now called pastel blue, weve dropped some names now to make life easier.


Thanks! Now that I know it's the same stuff, it will make it easier to source


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Normally this is down to low concentrations of the mixture that is down to the user to mix (we do not make a premixed XT1). So say a user mixes XT1 at 5% then they are using less biocide and inhibitor in there system and due to the low ratios they must replenish there coolants more often. The upside of such a low ratio is a higher heat carrying capability but the down side is less protection. If the user mix to a 15 to 20% mix ratio then they can use the coolant for much longer periods how ever the heat carrying capability of the coolant is less.


My opinion only is that the heat carrying capability shouldn't be a concern for PC water cooling users, considering the amounts we are using and the total heat we are usually dealing with.
I haven't run the math but if using 10%-20% mix ration per 1 litre of water will reduce heat carrying capability by 5%~7% percent, this will in most cases translate to 0.5~1.5 degrees loss isn't such a trouble considering this liquid contributes to a lower maintenance system and better lubricant for the pump.


----------



## Mayhem

Ah you see every one is different and we found people will ether like a performance coolant over a color coolant and some do not mind, we have to cater for every one which is the hard task at times







.

Your summation though is correct it can be any ware from 0.25c to 3c difference. this is also volumetric and pressure dependent hence we cannot give an accurate answer.


----------



## s74r1

Hmm, XT1 Plus sounds intriguing but will it too have biocide that breaks down >35c? I try to stay at or below 40c but that's about the sweet spot on my fans for silence.

Currently debating whether to use 20% XT-1 Clear or 10% X1 Clear on 40c coolant temp under load. I'm thinking if XT-1 needs 20% for effective biocide then 10% X1 would be easier to pump on a D5 in my high restriction system


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Start



12Months Later



Flushed



TCO


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ah you see every one is different and we found people will ether like a performance coolant over a color coolant and some do not mind, we have to cater for every one which is the hard task at times
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Your summation though is correct it can be any ware from 0.25c to 3c difference. this is also volumetric and pressure dependent hence we cannot give an accurate answer.


Hey Mick its been a Awhile since i post here.
Im just curious to ask if you guys still panning to release some new coolant or improve the aurora 2

Thanks


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Start
> 
> 
> 12Months Later
> 
> 
> 
> Flushed
> 
> 
> TCO


(Sorry for off-topic) Curious, what fans are those and have the bearings held up well after 12 months? I've only been able to get ball bearing or Noctua fans to last over 6-10 months before developing noisy worn out bearings; especially in horizontal positions and frequent stopping/starting.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> (Sorry for off-topic) Curious, what fans are those and have the bearings held up well after 12 months? I've only been able to get ball bearing or Noctua fans to last over 6-10 months before developing noisy worn out bearings; especially in horizontal positions and frequent stopping/starting.


The early pics look like Bitfenix Spectre fans and the new pics look like NoiseBlocker eLoop fans.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ah you see every one is different and we found people will ether like a performance coolant over a color coolant and some do not mind, we have to cater for every one which is the hard task at times
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Your summation though is correct it can be any ware from 0.25c to 3c difference. this is also volumetric and pressure dependent hence we cannot give an accurate answer.


Mayhems are doing a great job trying to cater for everyone needs with reasonable costs. it's a tough gig, since there are so many variables which affect the user's experience. For the very least I always recommend using the blitz cleaning kit to get the best possible start. However, PC Case temps affects the additives in the liquid, hence people mileage will vary.
I deal with a 45~47 water temps and I require additives which won't break under these temps and sustain for a very long time. You could say I'm an extreme case user.

I also work as a test engineer so it's in my character


----------



## Mayhem

In your case the new XT1 plus will be perfect. The new biocide and additives are rated for a much higher heat loads (upwards of 90c+) and so far we haven't seen any colour change in the last few months nor brake down, this is testing at 50+ 24/7 and in front of a window direct to UV light with the new red dye.

We have also been working on a X1 Plus as well but need extra time to do this and the same goes for pastel plus. We have to be careful though as we may end up giving to many options lol.

If i get some time this week ill push to move this forwards for general release.

As for Aurora its now up to V4. Check top right of the bottle for the version numbers. V4 have new improved additives (sorry cannot go into to much detail) to improve its working behavior. Over all it stays up longer and improves stability. This has been selling for in access of 4 plus months now. The newer versions also now use the new dyes.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> In your case the new XT1 plus will be perfect. The new biocide and additives are rated for a much higher heat loads (upwards of 90c+) and so far we haven't seen any colour change in the last few months nor brake down, this is testing at 50+ 24/7 and in front of a window direct to UV light with the new red dye.
> 
> We have also been working on a X1 Plus as well but need extra time to do this and the same goes for pastel plus. We have to be careful though as we may end up giving to many options lol.
> 
> If i get some time this week ill push to move this forwards for general release.
> 
> As for Aurora its now up to V4. Check top right of the bottle for the version numbers. V4 have new improved additives (sorry cannot go into to much detail) to improve its working behavior. Over all it stays up longer and improves stability. This has been selling for in access of 4 plus months now. The newer versions also now use the new dyes.


Can't wait to get my hands on the new XT-1 and some new dye


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Start
> 
> 
> 
> 12Months Later
> 
> 
> 
> Flushed
> 
> 
> TCO


It looks like the blue has held up really really well. That is great since I am going to pick up that one (Sorry, my spoiler tags arent working for some reason)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> (Sorry for off-topic) Curious, what fans are those and have the bearings held up well after 12 months? I've only been able to get ball bearing or Noctua fans to last over 6-10 months before developing noisy worn out bearings; especially in horizontal positions and frequent stopping/starting.


Bitfenix Spectre and Spectre Pros. They held up great. Changed them out for just overall noise.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The early pics look like Bitfenix Spectre fans and the new pics look like NoiseBlocker eLoop fans.


Correct









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> It looks like the blue has held up really really well. That is great since I am going to pick up that one (Sorry, my spoiler tags arent working for some reason)


The Blue does hold up extremely well. If anything it got a little darker but the acutal colour is great either way.

TCO


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Anyone know what the blue pastel would look like with a drop of dark blue dye in it?

On a side note and just to satisfy my curiosity, could you dye the pastel with food coloring? lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

I was thinking of using the blue pastel in the Anidees AI7 build I have planned since the build is for Christine and she loves the color. But still deciding on parts for it and acquiring vendor sponsorships (where possible.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

The Gigabyte Designaire boards are RGB and come pretty neutral on components...just sayin


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Anyone know what the blue pastel would look like with a drop of dark blue dye in it?
> 
> On a side note and just to satisfy my curiosity, could you dye the pastel with food coloring? lol


Pastel will take more than a few drops to make noticeable changes. I used almost half a bottle to get this


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Anyone know what the blue pastel would look like with a drop of dark blue dye in it?
> 
> On a side note and just to satisfy my curiosity, could you dye the pastel with food coloring? lol


one stain blue will make it much darker. And no dont use food coloring we can tell







, sugar doesn't go well in a liquid cooling loop.


----------



## jdoo

Quick question, I just got some mayhems pastel sunset yellow from an online retailer and the date on the label is December 2014. Seems a little old to me but I wanted to check and see if it matters before raising a stink


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Pastel will take more than a few drops to make noticeable changes. I used almost half a bottle to get this


Oh wow. Was that in the pastel white base?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> one stain blue will make it much darker. And no dont use food coloring we can tell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , sugar doesn't go well in a liquid cooling loop.


Cool thanks!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Pastel will take more than a few drops to make noticeable changes. I used almost half a bottle to get this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh wow. Was that in the pastel white base?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> one stain blue will make it much darker. And no dont use food coloring we can tell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , sugar doesn't go well in a liquid cooling loop.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Cool thanks!
Click to expand...

I started with blue pastel and added blue dye. The dark blue dye was not available anywhere so I used regular blue dye to darken it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> The Gigabyte Designaire boards are RGB and come pretty neutral on components...just sayin


Yeah I was looking at the z170 Designare and Ultra Gaming in the newer lineup (other than the x99 side isn't very neutral)


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I started with blue pastel and added blue dye. The dark blue dye was not available anywhere so I used regular blue dye to darken it.


Thanks for letting me know! Sounds like I need to experiment


----------



## ratzofftoya

Do you guys know how the aurora gold booster works? Like what should I mix it with?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Do you guys know how the aurora gold booster works? Like what should I mix it with?


I've used it with mayhem's x1 in the past with good results. Aurora rules still apply though


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdoo*
> 
> Quick question, I just got some mayhems pastel sunset yellow from an online retailer and the date on the label is December 2014. Seems a little old to me but I wanted to check and see if it matters before raising a stink


As long as it was stored at the correct temps it should be fine. but i cannot verify that.


----------



## jdoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> As long as it was stored at the correct temps it should be fine. but i cannot verify that.


yea that's what I am worried about.

Does mayhems maintain an "authorized reseller" network where certain storage/quality is promised, or is ordering from your site the only way to ensure I get fluid which has been properly taken care of?


----------



## Mayhem

Who was the re-seller? Pm me if you could the details.

Most of out official re sellers have no problems what so ever but some re sellers are also our distributes and we don't know who they sell to.

Our official list is here -> https://mayhems.co.uk/distributors/ (just took a look my self, "wow" weve grown)

if you after the latest most up to date formula we will be ahead of the game compered to every one else and our stock rotation is one of the highest.


----------



## 0ldChicken

So I'm going to be putting silver Aurora premix in my loop soon. I know it is going to fail quickly since it is a monster of a loop but I'm wondering if I should use my blitz pt2 before i use the Aurora or after the Aurora fails and I am going to refill. I feel like the blitz might make the Aurora last a bit longer since the loop would be cleaner. Or will the blitz be of more help cleaning out the Aurora afterwards?

Can't wait to see this loop with Aurora! even if it's only for a week hahaha


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Do you clean your loop often?

TCO


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I've used it with mayhem's x1 in the past with good results. Aurora rules still apply though


Which color works best as a base for the gold booster?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Do you clean your loop often?
> 
> TCO


yes, all parts were cleaned with hot water when I initially put it together a couple months ago. I didn't open and clean out my GPU blocks though since I rebuilt and I've noticed a tiny bit of discolouration on the copper in a couple spots. Noting major but enough to make me wanna clean it up. I can post pics of it after work.

I've been running distilled with mayhem's biocide
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Which color works best as a base for the gold booster?


I liked the green the best but it is an odd combo. I can post those pics after work as well. I've only done blue and green but the blue was underwhelming tbh. That green really popped


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> yes, all parts were cleaned with hot water when I initially put it together a couple months ago. I didn't open and clean out my GPU blocks though since I rebuilt and I've noticed a tiny bit of discolouration on the copper in a couple spots. Noting major but enough to make me wanna clean it up. I can post pics of it after work.
> 
> I've been running distilled with mayhem's biocide


Hardest part of the Aurora, is the cleaning after using it. Those particles man... those particles. ....

TCO


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Hardest part of the Aurora, is the cleaning after using it. Those particles man... those particles. ....
> 
> TCO


I know it! I've still got some lingering particles from the last Aurora build i did with some of these parts, despite througouly cleaning each component by hand.
I've resigned to always having a very slight shimmer and I've actually grown to appreciate it lol.
I'm thinking I'll blitz after this Aurora and see how well it cleans up the "mess"

Thanks for your input TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I know it! I've still got some lingering particles from the last Aurora build i did with some of these parts, despite througouly cleaning each component by hand.
> I've resigned to always having a very slight shimmer and I've actually grown to appreciate it lol.
> I'm thinking I'll blitz after this Aurora and see how well it cleans up the "mess"
> 
> *Thanks for your input* TCO


I know it wasn't much, but with the experience with Aurora wasn't to bad, just the Clean up is unforgiving when reading loop for another colour









TCO


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I've used it with mayhem's x1 in the past with good results. Aurora rules still apply though
> 
> 
> 
> Which color works best as a base for the gold booster?
Click to expand...

Black (x1 black)


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Black (x1 black)


What about pastel black?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> What about pastel black?


something about Pastel being a light blocker, and the Aurora effect being a light REFLECTOR, makes them not mix too well. I know I saw one build on here with pastel green and aurora booster and he said he couldn't tell it was there and the pictures also looked that way


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> something about Pastel being a light blocker, and the Aurora effect being a light REFLECTOR, makes them not mix too well. I know I saw one build on here with pastel green and aurora booster and he said he couldn't tell it was there and the pictures also looked that way


Hm. Is there any way to have an actual gold-looking fluid, rather than, say, black flecked with gold?


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh i can make you a nano gold fluid as in real gold, Its £15,000 a Ltr minim and payment must be upfront. How ever it doesn't look gold it looks read and that using real gold. Once you grind down gold that small is turns red, silver turns mucky brown.


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Anyone know what the blue pastel would look like with a drop of dark blue dye in it?
> 
> On a side note and just to satisfy my curiosity, could you dye the pastel with food coloring? lol


i used pastel white with non stain blue dye so u can make it whatever shade of blue u wish..few drops at a time..
http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/RpKz/media/20160202_190232_zpsuca6lp84.jpg.html


----------



## OneFunGenesis

^ Thanks! I am really not sure how I want to go with the system. I am going to keep running my dyed distilled until october and then pick up some pastel after I have made a decision lol


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Anyone know what the blue pastel would look like with a drop of dark blue dye in it?
> 
> On a side note and just to satisfy my curiosity, could you dye the pastel with food coloring? lol


this is my build. Mayhems pastel blue with a few drops of dark blue dye. Takes more than a few drops at least for me to get a nice darker color.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> something about Pastel being a light blocker, and the Aurora effect being a light REFLECTOR, makes them not mix too well. I know I saw one build on here with pastel green and aurora booster and he said he couldn't tell it was there and the pictures also looked that way


Just my experience aurora booster and pastel blue I couldn't even see the aurora without smashing my face into the reservoir. But that's because it's a light blocker. Use the clear colors preferable a dark clear color


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> this is my build. Mayhems pastel blue with a few drops of dark blue dye. Takes more than a few drops at least for me to get a nice darker color.


That is pretty darn close to what I want to achieve. Thank you for this


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh i can make you a nano gold fluid as in real gold, Its £15,000 a Ltr minim and payment must be upfront. How ever it doesn't look gold it looks read and that using real gold. Once you grind down gold that small is turns red, silver turns mucky brown.


Mildly amusing, but a little strange coming from a Mayhems rep. I'm trying to get help regarding your products. You have photos on your own website showing gold-looking fluid. I want to know how to achieve that effect.


----------



## 414347

Wholly man.... green was my favorite until, then red, this blue is truly awesome







....... I'm confuse now







what I would chose


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Wholly man.... green was my favorite until, then red, this blue is truly awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....... I'm confuse now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what I would chose


Green, I've found this is the most consistent colour of the choices. Second would be blue.

TCO


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh i can make you a nano gold fluid as in real gold, Its £15,000 a Ltr minim and payment must be upfront. How ever it doesn't look gold it looks read and that using real gold. Once you grind down gold that small is turns red, silver turns mucky brown.
> 
> 
> 
> Mildly amusing, but a little strange coming from a Mayhems rep. I'm trying to get help regarding your products. You have photos on your own website showing gold-looking fluid. I want to know how to achieve that effect.
Click to expand...

White gold is a mix of Just gold aurora and X1 , Black gold ix X1 black + gold aurora. how ever we can make any thing people like if there willing to pay the dev costs.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> White gold is a mix of Just gold aurora and X1 , Black gold ix X1 black + gold aurora. how ever we can make any thing people like if there willing to pay the dev costs.


I mean what about yellow gold? Like regular gold color?


----------



## Mayhem

add yellow dye.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> add yellow dye.


So you're saying the formula is DI water + yellow dye + aurora gold booster? Why is this like pulling teeth?


----------



## Mayhem

If you asked a direct question you'll get a direct answer. If you showed a picture you would get a result, if you would like to pull your teeth out im sure i could match that color too if you provided me with a picture.

You do know there are millions of different colours of gold.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Imagine a gold crayon.


----------



## 0ldChicken

im assuming he means the pic on the right here, could be wrong though


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Imagine a gold crayon.


You realize there are multiple variations of a Gold Crayon. . picture, as mentioned, will help them give you the result you want.


----------



## Mayhem

That gold colour above was made with a tone of Aurora 1 + Yellow + Orange + Red dye It was a one off mix .


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> You realize there are multiple variations of a Gold Crayon. . picture, as mentioned, will help them give you the result you want.


There is one Crayola color called "Gold." Here it is. Something like this would be rad!


----------



## OneFunGenesis

That would look really good...


----------



## Mayhem

to get that colour use x1 black and gold aurora.. No wonder i have no hair.


----------



## Mayhem

Tonight Mick will be on YT live with the Mod Zoo about 22:00 Hrs UK time and i think its around 16:00 Hrs CST Time. There is a live chat were you can ask any questions you like and mick will answer them







.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRjnm3-XJNU Is the YT channel, Have fun every one.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Mick let me know that if he gets emails to his mayhems email, he will do videos of how to make requested colours. I requested gold on his live chat tonight


----------



## Mayhem

Once im back at work tomorrow ill grab the email and ill do a video for you.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

You're awesome Mick! I might have not got the .co.uk correct so you can PM me if nothing came through. Thanks again!


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh PM me please. seems as though i never got it, checked this morning. having a issues with Russians attack our site and my email address. seems like ive set some one else once again mahahahahahaha.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Sent a PM, thanks! And that's a bummer...those pesky russians haha


----------



## meson1

That white "rubbish" catching tubing on last night's show was mighty interesting. I'm building a PETG hardline rig. My plan was to use hardline in the back too. But given the cleaning benefits of your new tubing, I might just use that behind the scenes instead.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

I came in like 5 mins too late and caught the poop talk at the end of that conversation. Can someone give me a cliff notes version of what that tubing is and how it works?


----------



## Mayhem

you can re-watch it all









BTW the tubing lands Thursday and will be on sale by Friday. We do have pre orders for the tubing so may sell out very quickly.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Poop-tastic! I will have to make that a point


----------



## Mayhem

Ive been asked were can i get fem jell from with out going to a shop to buy it. http://www.numark-pharmacy.co.uk/numark-lubricating-jelly_p49465.aspx Enjoy ladies and gents your life will be a much happier place from now on ... Fem jell for all them sticky situations were you cannot get the fitting in right or the O-Ring to stay still when you slide the top into place. Perfect for fitting glass tubing too. Water Soluble, PH balanced, none Greasy and alcohol free. Put a smile on you partners face right now and buy them some fem jell, your liquid cooling helping hand







Works with all Mayhems coolants and products... tried and tested ....


----------



## OneFunGenesis

That link is broken for me :/. That Fem Gel convo last night was quite funny


----------



## 0ldChicken

How does Mayhem's feel about using silicone grease on o-rings? I've been using it and loving it but I'm wondering if I should make the switch fem jell! Haha


----------



## Mayhem

This is silicone based and much cheaper. Link should work now.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Link worked for me!


----------



## Revan654

Coolant: X1 - UV Blue
Tubing: Acrylic (Bitspower) / Soft PVC (PrimoChill)

I was planning on doing my Build Shortly. I'm a little confused on about the message at the bottom of the page.

"Compatible with Cold Cathode / Black Light UV Based Lamps only. Not compatible with UV LED Strip lighting"

Link: https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/x1-coolants/x1-pre-mix-1ltr/x1-uv-blue-1ltr/

Is their a reason why UV LED can't be used? I have a bunch of DarkSide UV LED strips I can re-use from an old build. Why only Cold Cathode with this type of coolant?


----------



## DarthBaggins

The UV emitted from LEDs isn't as strong nor a complete true UV light, which cathodes can emit


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> The UV emitted from LEDs isn't as strong nor a complete true UV light, which cathodes can emit


ok, Thanks for information.


----------



## Mayhem

The darkside should be fine its the cheap badly made Chinese ones that do not emit at the correct levels. The UV clear blue are the ones under the non stain section, e.g non stain sky blue.

The warnings are in place to give you the user as much information as possible to make you own decisions.


----------



## wizardbro

Are these supposed to look like this?




Four bottles, all from the same batch, still sealed.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh its X1 made with vegetable extract so the colour goes yellow over time when you it water down you wont see the difference. Dont forget these are concentrated coolants not water down colourd premixed coolant.


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh its X1 made with vegetable extract so the colour goes yellow over time when you it water down you wont see the difference. Dont forget these are concentrated coolants not water down colourd premixed coolant.


Sounds good







.
Looking forward to building soon.


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems UV White Tubing is extremely versatile with new 'Polymer Additives' that do not leach plasticizers into the system. The chemical makeup of Mayhems new coloured tubing has never been used before and is a brand new concept by Mayhems Solutions LTD and is fully REACH complaint. Mayhems Opaque Tubing has been tested in systems reaching temperatures of up to 90c and liquid heat internal temperatures of 65c+. The UV White tubing has extreme flexibility and can easily take heat loads way beyond other brands and keep its elasticity. Mayhems Opaque tubing has an excellent bend radius suited to liquid cooling systems.
> 
> ...
> 
> Mayhems Coloured tubing will also partially acts as a catcher by absorbing soluble residue stopping it reaching and fouling the system. This is a very unique feature and will aid in prolonging the liquid of the coolant within the system and also the life of the PC liquid cooling parts.
> 
> ...


I've been watching out on your website for this, but I don't see it in your shop yet.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Are these supposed to look like this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four bottles, all from the same batch, still sealed.


Wow, how did it get _that_ yellow? I have a 100 ml bottle of X1 sitting on a shelf for over a year, and the yellowishness is almost imperceptible.

Recently I ordered another 100 ml bottle from PPCs, and they sent me 250 ml one instead. (Huh? Not going to complain. Charged me for 100 ml.) So that one was a little bit yellow inside that bottle, but nothing like these pictures.

And, look at that, the date on the bottle is 18.05.2016. That's fresh!


----------



## Snaporz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Wow, how did it get _that_ yellow? I have a 100 ml bottle of X1 sitting on a shelf for over a year, and the yellowishness is almost imperceptible.
> 
> Recently I ordered another 100 ml bottle from PPCs, and they sent me 250 ml one instead. (Huh? Not going to complain. Charged me for 100 ml.) So that one was a little bit yellow inside that bottle, but nothing like these pictures.
> 
> And, look at that, the date on the bottle is 18.05.2016. That's fresh!


For how many initials come with each packing slip from PPCs, they mess up an awful lot on getting orders right. "picked by XX, checked by XX" yeah right, you both failed epicly and probably just initialed instead of actually getting my order right. It's happened multiple times =\ and to some of my buddies as well.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snaporz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> Wow, how did it get _that_ yellow? I have a 100 ml bottle of X1 sitting on a shelf for over a year, and the yellowishness is almost imperceptible.
> 
> Recently I ordered another 100 ml bottle from PPCs, and they sent me 250 ml one instead. (Huh? Not going to complain. Charged me for 100 ml.) So that one was a little bit yellow inside that bottle, but nothing like these pictures.
> 
> And, look at that, the date on the bottle is 18.05.2016. That's fresh!
> 
> 
> 
> For how many initials come with each packing slip from PPCs, they mess up an awful lot on getting orders right. "picked by XX, checked by XX" yeah right, you both failed epicly and probably just initialed instead of actually getting my order right. It's happened multiple times =\ and to some of my buddies as well.
Click to expand...

I've had quite a few mistakes by them too, but their CS is good. I think a lot of items they just split into smaller ones and relabel themselves (I've seen evidence of this in the past), this could have been a case where they mistakenly put yellow instead of clear. That would be one heck of a screwup though and I can't imagine they would store them in direct sunlight to cause that much yellowing. Their location in FL is hot and humid but they claim their warehouse has full AC.

I too once ordered a 100ml of Mayhems and received a 250ml, I doubt they even stock 100ml unless they have enough orders to split two 250ml bottles into 5 bottles maybe.


----------



## Kyouki

Mayhem pastel extreme white in my new build!


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Mayhem pastel extreme white in my new build!


Looks good man, what Ram kit did you go with? Currently looking at speeds and determining what I'll need. Did u have to mess with the timings/voltage? Sorry off topic, that white looks good


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> Looks good man, what Ram kit did you go with? Currently looking at speeds and determining what I'll need. Did u have to mess with the timings/voltage? Sorry off topic, that white looks good


Thank you, I used G.skill tridentZ 128gb cas15 3200mh. After boot I just set xmp profile and it running all 128gb at 3200 no problem. Full build at http://www.overclock.net/t/1607002/


----------



## CamB17

Mayhems pastel white and purple dye, in the new build.


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Thank you, I used G.skill tridentZ 128gb cas15 3200mh. After boot I just set xmp profile and it running all 128gb at 3200 no problem. Full build at http://www.overclock.net/t/1607002/


Wow ok thanks, I'll be looking to do the same. That's amazing they worked straight out of box with XMP


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> Wow ok thanks, I'll be looking to do the same. That's amazing they worked straight out of box with XMP


Will vary from board, to overclocks, to voltages etc... Nothing is the same in computing.

TCO


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Will vary from board, to overclocks, to voltages etc... Nothing is the same in computing.
> 
> TCO


Ya I know, that's why I was astonished. Heard so many people having issues with OC on memory. Nice to see one work right for a change.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: Is The X1 Coolant PETG safe? I know some coolants on the market doesn't get along with PETG.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Is The X1 Coolant PETG safe? I know some coolants on the market doesn't get along with PETG.


yup, x1 is good. Xt-1 doesn't play nice with Petg though.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah X1 is the main one that is safe with pretty much any tubing.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Hardest part of the Aurora, is the cleaning after using it. Those particles man... those particles. ....
> 
> TCO


I love aurora liquid .

The problem is those particles ... those particles fall after 3-4 months and stick in the tubing causing yellowing.

Now if you use flexible tubing no big deal changing it but mine are hard tubing which makes it very very difficult to clean.

i remember i had to throw half of the tubing and redo the bendings which toke me 2 days.

I Hope mayhems its working on fix the issue o bc i really love this coolant.

I still have two bottles sitting in my room for 1 year now.


----------



## testplsignore

Is Pastel Extreme Glycol based?

If so, what type of glycol?

I'm worried about pastel extreme reacting with Primochill PETG tubing...I've heard EG and PETG do not mix

Apparently Propelyne Glycol is fine though...


----------



## VSG

As per their MSDS sheets, Pastel Extreme is Ethylene Glycol based and the regular Pastel series is Glycerol based. Use the non Extreme variant to be sure.


----------



## Gdfthr248

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Are these supposed to look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Four bottles, all from the same batch, still sealed.


Just curious, did you try mixing those and if so how did they come out? I just got 3 bottles from the same batch you had and they are extremely yellow as well.


----------



## wizardbro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdfthr248*
> 
> Just curious, did you try mixing those and if so how did they come out? I just got 3 bottles from the same batch you had and they are extremely yellow as well.


Not yet, still a couple of weeks before I can start my build.


----------



## eucalyptus

The 15 ml dye bottles. How many litres of water can they color?









As the same question follows for this biocide








https://mayhems.co.uk/algaecides/biocide-extreme-10ml/

Dye + biocide = good to go, even with nickel blocks?

I have only used the X1 uv green coolant before which I mixed with water. But this time I want to do my own tropical mix between ocean blue and green


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> The 15 ml dye bottles. How many litres of water can they color?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As the same question follows for this biocide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://mayhems.co.uk/algaecides/biocide-extreme-10ml/
> 
> Dye + biocide = good to go, even with nickel blocks?
> 
> I have only used the X1 uv green coolant before which I mixed with water. But this time I want to do my own tropical mix between ocean blue and green


Just use clear x1 and add dye to it. That way you don't have to mess with biocide/anti corrosives.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Just use clear x1 and add dye to it. That way you don't have to mess with biocide/anti corrosives.


Is this the one you mean?






















https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/x1-coolants/x1-concentrate-250ml/x1-clear-250ml/

Aaa much simpler than biocide







For sure! Then I will grab a few of these







Thanks a lot man!

+ rep


----------



## Sulfatron

Just a quick question to Mayhems;

What type of UV dye goes in the Mayhems Oil Black coolant?

The UV reaction of my coolant has slightly faded after 7-8 months of use and I want to bring that UV back to life..









Thanks in advance!


----------



## s74r1

Does XT-1 contain any type of surfactant? I've had a hard time getting congealed bubbles out of the loop. (Tried 5%, 10%, and 15% mix ratios with DI water).

If not, will the new XT1 Plus contain any? And is there any ETA on a release for it?

I've heard a drop of Dawn original dish soap works wonders, but can leave behind some residue unfortunately (probably the other additives).

I'm looking for a long life coolant though and XT-1 apparently breaks down at higher temps (6mos in my last loop before algea formed @ 40c w/ about 9% mix ratio), would Mayhems Biocide Extreme be safe to use with lab grade Ethylene Glycol mixed with DI water?

I'm not really a chemist but I don't want to be using antifreeze due to dyes and other additives, and while I understand many of the regulatory laws, I'm tired of maintenance and don't really care how toxic something is if it works better. I'd assume some sort of surfactant and possibly an additional corrosion inhibitor might be needed if I decided to make my own? (Mixed metals in loop)


----------



## wuddupdoc

I was wondering, I currently have a loop with Silver Kill and Distilled water. I want to make the switch to a nice thick red, and I've stumbled upon Mayhem. Few questions.

a)I've read lot's of bad reviews about dies and such, is this still a problem?
b)What mayhem would you recommend to achieve a nice thick red?
c)Do I have to flush/clean my system that currently have silver coil and water?
d)Will new coolant be just as protective?


----------



## emsj86

Will I have he same effect as the premix (outside of color) as aurora 2 if I use clear fluid with blue dye and aurora booster ?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wuddupdoc*
> 
> I was wondering, I currently have a loop with Silver Kill and Distilled water. I want to make the switch to a nice thick red, and I've stumbled upon Mayhem. Few questions.
> 
> a)I've read lot's of bad reviews about dies and such, is this still a problem?
> b)What mayhem would you recommend to achieve a nice thick red?
> c)Do I have to flush/clean my system that currently have silver coil and water?
> d)Will new coolant be just as protective?


Dyes aren't usually the issue, its rad flux and plasticizer that gunk up the loop. You can use pastel, x1, and/or dye to get whatever red you're looking for.
It's always a good idea to flush your system between coolants and inspect for and damage or buildup. If everything looks good you shouldn't have any issues. If you see a lot of gunk in your blocks or corrosion you'll want to open the blocks and clean them thoroughly and just make sure they aren't damaged.
If you use pastel or x1, they have biocide/anti corrosion added into them so you won't need the coil.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Will I have he same effect as the premix (outside of color) as aurora 2 if I use clear fluid with blue dye and aurora booster ?


Pretty much, I did this with x1 clear for a friends build and it ended up looking like white aurora. Went really well with the RGB lighting I put in the case.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wuddupdoc*
> 
> I was wondering, I currently have a loop with Silver Kill and Distilled water. I want to make the switch to a nice thick red, and I've stumbled upon Mayhem. Few questions.
> 
> a)I've read lot's of bad reviews about dies and such, is this still a problem?
> b)What mayhem would you recommend to achieve a nice thick red?
> c)Do I have to flush/clean my system that currently have silver coil and water?
> d)Will new coolant be just as protective?


Don't run silver if you have nickel blocks, it will cause problems.

a) Bad reviews will happen with every product going, just the nature of the beast, dyes don't clog up systems, radiator flux etc does.

b) Pastel White with red and maybe a slight hint of blue.

c) You should always clean your system periodically, if you're using Pastel white with red dye then it would be a good idea to flush the rads several time before hand.

d) If you're buying premade mixes they have anti algae and anti corrosion mixed in


----------



## krutoydiesel

Question for Mayhems:

I was wondering why the 250ml X1 concentrate is for 2L when I could just buy two of the 100ml X1 concentrate for 2L at a cheaper price? Why is there an extra 50ml concentrate for two liters?


----------



## Gil80

Hi.

I read somewhere that using Silver for anti-algae purposes is just BS marketing stuff.
Silver does release ions to the water which makes the water more toxic for algae.
However, if you have copper in your loop then copper does the same thing exactly.
Adding silver just contributes more towards corrosion, even if it's a very minimal one.

The amount of ions released to the water by either silver or copper are not sufficient for algae growth. You can go away without using silver if you clean your loop very well and use high quality distilled water. Yet, this is less recommended and using biocide is the better approach.
Also, according to EK, using biocide copper sulphate (Cu) is not good for nickel plated products, but I didn't hear about anyone complaining on it.

That's what I read, and I didn't trail these things and I believe there are more experienced people here who can verify or not what I wrote.


----------



## Darkstar757

Will Pastel Green work ok in my ek petg with Accetel and Nickel blocks be ok? Will it stain?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> Will Pastel Green work ok in my ek petg with Accetel and Nickel blocks be ok? Will it stain?


Pastel Green will not stain.

TCO


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> Will Pastel Green work ok in my ek petg with Accetel and Nickel blocks be ok? Will it stain?


I used Pastel Green in my old x79 system and left it in there for close to three years with no maintenance and when I opened up the loop to tear down last month I hade no staining and very little residue around fittings. So I would say It is Good stuff and trusted in my loops.


----------



## Darkstar757

thanks guys now does anyone know where I can find this stuff in stock?


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> thanks guys now does anyone know where I can find this stuff in stock?


Maybe go for a pastel white and dye it green? I'm not seeing a Pastel green on Mayhem's site.


----------



## Darkstar757

dye will stain


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> thanks guys now does anyone know where I can find this stuff in stock?


Maybe go for a pastel white and dye it green?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> dye will stain


Hence the non-stain green dye that Mayhem's sells.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> dye will stain


Just order Pastel Concentrate

https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/pastel-coolants/pastel-concentrate-250ml/green-250ml/

TCO


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just order Pastel Concentrate
> 
> https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/pastel-coolants/pastel-concentrate-250ml/green-250ml/
> 
> TCO


I'm assuming that it doesn't matter about the UV right?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> I'm assuming that it doesn't matter about the UV right?


One Sec, I am looking on Performance PCs. I am pretty sure that is what I purchased for the SMA8 Build. And No, It doesn't matter that it's "UV"

TCO

I see the one that is Pictured on the MaYhems link is the actual green pastel, and not the UV.


----------



## Darkstar757

Id really like it to have UV.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> Id really like it to have UV.


Double and triple checked.

This is the One.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/fluids-additives/mayhems-pastel-mint-concentrate-250ml.html

They Make an X1 concentrate that is more see through. Personally wouldn't get the X1. Grab the bottle on the link.

Mix with 750ml of Fluid to make 1 Liter total










TCO

Also a review I did a while back on the Concentrates

This is the code that needs to be on the bottle.

609224351457

Here is the link again to the website.


----------



## Darkstar757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Double and triple checked.
> 
> This is the One.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/fluids-additives/mayhems-pastel-mint-concentrate-250ml.html
> 
> They Make an X1 concentrate that is more see through. Personally wouldn't get the X1. Grab the bottle on the link.
> 
> Mix with 750ml of Fluid to make 1 Liter total
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> Also a review I did a while back on the Concentrates
> 
> This is the code that needs to be on the bottle.
> 
> 609224351457
> 
> Here is the link again to the website.


Thanks bro what fluid should I mix it with?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> Thanks bro what fluid should I mix it with?


Distilled water.

TCO


----------



## Darkstar757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Distilled water.
> 
> TCO


BTW your rig is a thing of beauty m8.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> BTW your rig is a thing of beauty m8.


Well thank you. After having the coolant in there for well over a year, I flushed it all out with distilled and re-did the fans. I wanted to use the NBeloops from the start, but the overall cost when I first built it was through the roof.











TCO


----------



## Darkstar757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well thank you. After having the coolant in there for well over a year, I flushed it all out with distilled and re-did the fans. I wanted to use the NBeloops from the start, but the overall cost when I first built it was through the roof.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Have you though about removing all the 90 fitting and doing smooth bends?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> Have you though about removing all the 90 fitting and doing smooth bends?


Never. Work smarter, not Harder









TCO


----------



## Darkstar757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Never. Work smarter, not Harder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


LOL I hear you. I will post you pics of my rig. I wanted to go into the SM8A but the cost of the dual titan xps and 6950x pushed me into the Fractal Design S. It looks good just not as good as the case labs. I also did bends and my god working with PETG is a fing PITA.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> LOL I hear you. I will post you pics of my rig. I wanted to go into the SM8A but the cost of the dual titan xps and 6950x pushed me into the Fractal Design S. It looks good just not as good as the case labs. I also did bends and my god working with PETG is a fing PITA.


Can't wait to see it what you do in the Define S.

I am debating to switch over to the Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered glass (anthracite grey)


----------



## Kyouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Can't wait to see it what you do in the Define S.
> 
> I am debating to switch over to the Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered glass (anthracite grey)


Just finished my build in the Evolv ATX, and I have to say it is a fun case to build in. A little challenging with space and airflow but super clean.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyouki*
> 
> Just finished my build in the Evolv ATX, and I have to say it is a fun case to build in. A little challenging with space and airflow but super clean.


Yeah, my biggest worry is the airflow. I live in California and I don't have central A/C so I need all the flow I can get.


----------



## ali13245

Hey guys I am going to be redoing my loop soon, and I was wondering If I can reuse the same PETG bend that I have in my system right now? I used mayhems pastel white extreme + yellow dye. I am going to be replacing all of that fluid with mayhems blue berry pastel. The reason I want to reuse the bend is simply because it took me a long time to bend that tube in the first place, and I don't want to go through all of that trouble again lol.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hey guys I am going to be redoing my loop soon, and I was wondering If I can reuse the same PETG bend that I have in my system right now? I used mayhems pastel white extreme + yellow dye. I am going to be replacing all of that fluid with mayhems blue berry pastel. The reason I want to reuse the bend is simply because it took me a long time to bend that tube in the first place, and I don't want to go through all of that trouble again lol.


When you take your tubing out, why don't you just make a small glass of the mix and pour it in the tube with your fingers plugging both sides to see if the tube has a cloud or stained effect.

Then you could make an accurate decision.

TCO


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Hey guys I am going to be redoing my loop soon, and I was wondering If I can reuse the same PETG bend that I have in my system right now? I used mayhems pastel white extreme + yellow dye. I am going to be replacing all of that fluid with mayhems blue berry pastel. The reason I want to reuse the bend is simply because it took me a long time to bend that tube in the first place, and I don't want to go through all of that trouble again lol.


Now that you already have a tube pre bent it should be pretty easy to replicate.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> When you take your tubing out, why don't you just make a small glass of the mix and pour it in the tube with your fingers plugging both sides to see if the tube has a cloud or stained effect.
> 
> Then you could make an accurate decision.
> 
> TCO


Good idea, I'll definitely try that out. Thanks


----------



## Darkstar757

I am definitely not good at bending petg but I did my best.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am definitely not good at bending petg but I did my best.


Did you use a former or some item to use as a bending guide for the tube?


----------



## Darkstar757

I did and I still sucked. I wasted so much tube just to get those done.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> I did and I still sucked. I wasted so much tube just to get those done.


Those multi axis bends are a beast. I feel your pain man, sometimes you have to just take a break or even quit for the day and start again the next day.

Are you heating the tube on all sides and enough of the area?


----------



## Darkstar757

Yea it took me three days to do that and I just barely got it done. Do you think it looks horrible?


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> Yea it took me three days to do that and I just barely got it done. Do you think it looks horrible?


It shouldn't matter what I think. All that matters is if you like and enjoy it. If you were to redo some bends I would definitely recommend redoing the GPU-CPU bend as well as the RAD-RAD bend. You definitely have some tough bends to make because of your loop order. I am racking my brain trying to figure out a different way to structure the order for easier bends.


----------



## Darkstar757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> It shouldn't matter what I think. All that matters is if you like and enjoy it. If you were to redo some bends I would definitely recommend redoing the GPU-CPU bend as well as the RAD-RAD bend. You definitely have some tough bends to make because of your loop order. I am racking my brain trying to figure out a different way to structure the order for easier bends.


Yea true at some point I would like to fix them. I also dont know how much the restriction is going to impact my temps as I have not finished the build and bench marked it yet.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> Yea true at some point I would like to fix them. I also dont know how much the restriction is going to impact my temps as I have not finished the build and bench marked it yet.


Have you tried turning the top RAD 180 degrees and run GPU to TOP RAD, TOP RAD to CPU, and CPU to FRONT RAD?


----------



## Darkstar757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Have you tried turning the top RAD 180 degrees and run GPU to TOP RAD, TOP RAD to CPU, and CPU to FRONT RAD?


You know I havent and perhaps that would yield easier bends. I def will consider it.


----------



## ivoryg37

is mayhem X1 Clear Coolant suppose to be yellow? I don't remember it being yellow when I bought it a year ago. Will this turn clear once diluted or should I return it?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> is mayhem X1 Clear Coolant suppose to be yellow? I don't remember it being yellow when I bought it a year ago. Will this turn clear once diluted or should I return it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It will be fine once diluted.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Never. Work smarter, not Harder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I see a lot of people saying using fittings is an easy way out. I actually found bending easier. Where fittings require more measurements Atleast my experience


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I see a lot of people saying using fittings is an easy way out. I actually found bending easier. Where fittings require more measurements Atleast my experience


As you know I have done both ways, Bending and using just fittings with straight tube, I still prefer to using fittings over bending when applicable.

TCO


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> As you know I have done both ways, Bending and using just fittings with straight tube, I still prefer to using fittings over bending when applicable.
> 
> TCO


It really all depends on the person building the PC. Some people, like myself, choose to bend in order to save on fittings, but I also enjoy the aesthetic of bends more-so than straight tubing plus fittings. To each his own.

TCO though, can make some damn good looking builds with straight tube and fittings.


----------



## DerComissar

I keep getting a "Sorry, it seems we have no shipping options for your location" message, whenever I try to purchase from Mayhems directly.

This would be shipped from Mayhems UK, to Canada.
I did contact support, but it may take a while yet for an answer.
Anyone else had this issue when trying to buy from Mayhems site?

Edit:
Nvm, I was able to find a couple posts about this issue, back in the year 2014 section of this thread, lol.

Mayhems support did contact me, only a few hours after I inquired about it, which is really good customer service, in my book.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> It really all depends on the person building the PC. Some people, like myself, choose to bend in order to save on fittings, but I also enjoy the aesthetic of bends more-so than straight tubing plus fittings. To each his own.
> 
> TCO though, can make some damn good looking builds with straight tube and fittings.


Ill Bend them too.... Really comes down to an artistic sense at some point....

Thanks for the Compliment though









TCO


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ill Bend them too.... Really comes down to an artistic sense at some point....
> 
> Thanks for the Compliment though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


What's next for you regarding builds?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> What's next for you regarding builds?


This past december in 2015, I purchased a full white windowed caselabs s3 with pedestal, before the discontinuation of them. I was able to pay only 180 for the whole thing after some monies I recieved on the house from toyota.

Dual loop and X99 was the plan, but There is only one board available to build on for that platform.

TCO


----------



## Anateus

So, I've purchased a bottle of pastel White from my local shop, and they had to order it directly from Mayhems I believe.
There is only one date on the bottle, and its 11.05.2016. Is it no longer safe to use, or do you guys use American date system?


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> So, I've purchased a bottle of pastel White from my local shop, and they had to order it directly from Mayhems I believe.
> There is only one date on the bottle, and its 11.05.2016. Is it no longer safe to use, or do you guys use American date system?


Having had a read around, that's a date of manufacture and it's in day.month.year format. It should be fine to use.


----------



## Anateus

Thanks. Another question:
Some time ago I lost 1/3 of my pastel White mixed with distilled. I will be doing maintenance soon, the loop is 1yr old. Is it okay to reuse old pastel and mix it with a new one?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Thanks. Another question:
> Some time ago I lost 1/3 of my pastel White mixed with distilled. I will be doing maintenance soon, the loop is 1yr old. Is it okay to reuse old pastel and mix it with a new one?


Afaik, it is.

I had Mayhems Pastel White in my TJ07 build, and re-used it.
I ran it through a coffee filter and it was good to go.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Afaik, it is.
> 
> I had Mayhems Pastel White in my TJ07 build, and re-used it.
> I ran it through a coffee filter and it was good to go.


I have some mayhems pastel white that I died blue probably 2-3 years ago.. I am doing a new build is it safe to reuse this or should I just rebuy?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> I have some mayhems pastel white that I died blue probably 2-3 years ago.. I am doing a new build is it safe to reuse this or should I just rebuy?


I had the same and it sat for a year. When I opened even after shaking the coolant changed. All the white nano went to the bottom. I personally wouldn't recommend it. Seeing as I belgrove the shelf life is 3 years


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Afaik, it is.
> 
> I had Mayhems Pastel White in my TJ07 build, and re-used it.
> I ran it through a coffee filter and it was good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> I have some mayhems pastel white that I died blue probably 2-3 years ago.. I am doing a new build is it safe to reuse this or should I just rebuy?
Click to expand...

Idk, that might be getting rather old, might be best to use new coolant in the new build, imo.


----------



## Anateus

Is it normal that after 2 weeks of no use my coolant... splitted? I had pastel white mixed with non stain Blue. Now I've got coolant in one tube that is way darker than the rest (tube coming from the top rad - other are light Blue, this one is Dark Blue).
Also coolant in res is sapphire Blue on top, and going to light Blue in the bottom.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Is it normal that after 2 weeks of no use my coolant... splitted? I had pastel white mixed with non stain Blue. Now I've got coolant in one tube that is way darker than the rest (tube coming from the top rad - other are light Blue, this one is Dark Blue).
> Also coolant in res is sapphire Blue on top, and going to light Blue in the bottom.


yes it is. pastel white has got nanoparticles which separate when not mixed. just run your pc normally and it'll go back to normal.


----------



## emsj86

That's one of the reasons why I don't like pastel as any deD area in your loop like on the threads of fittings will usually have white residue that's annoying to clean up


----------



## Darkstar757

Guys I currently have EK green UV coolant in my rig and I am moving to Mayhems UV concentrate with distilled water. Is there a set process I should follow for the fluid change? Will I see any coolant improvements moving to Mayhems? How many times should I flush out the loop and what should I use to do it?

Thanks,
Darkstar


----------



## OneFunGenesis

If i remember correctly, EK coolant is made by Mayhems...right?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> If i remember correctly, EK coolant is made by Mayhems...right?


Pastel yes, for now. The Ekoolant Evo is not.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Ah, thank you


----------



## ali13245

So I have been running pastel extreme + non stain yellow dye for about 10 months now, and I want to change the coolant in my loop. Looking at either using pastel white or blueberry. Is flushing the loop out loop out with distilled water good enough? I don't want to place new coolant in the loop and have it be contaminated from the the previously used coolant.


----------



## Gdfthr248

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> is mayhem X1 Clear Coolant suppose to be yellow? I don't remember it being yellow when I bought it a year ago. Will this turn clear once diluted or should I return it?


I would return it. I had the same issue and after diluting, it did not clear up. Mayhems said they would replace it so we will see if the replacements are better. For now I just went to distilled and pt nuke. Left is pure distilled, middle is the diluted solution, and the coolant is how bad mine was.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdfthr248*
> 
> I would return it. I had the same issue and after diluting, it did not clear up. Mayhems said they would replace it so we will see if the replacements are better. For now I just went to distilled and pt nuke. Left is pure distilled, middle is the diluted solution, and the coolant is how bad mine was.


Thanks for the post! Glad I saw this before I used it


----------



## emsj86

I have the same product and it looks the same. I will see if my 250ml bottle is the same as well. Either way I have distilled and or nuke if needed to use.


----------



## ivoryg37

I contacted the vendor, they said they will be sending a replacement . I guess this batch of clear x1 is bad, I thought it was weird that it was yellow. I remember it being clear when I bought a batch a year ago.

I wonder if this coolant is still good to use with some dye


----------



## Anateus

I have some pastel white mixed with distilled that accidentally sprayed in some places. Is it (pastel) going to slow down water evaporation noticeably? How can I speed up the evaporation inside my case (those are really tiny droplets of water). I have no time to tear down the rig, and wont be using my PC for at least a week.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I have some pastel white mixed with distilled that accidentally sprayed in some places. Is it (pastel) going to slow down water evaporation noticeably? How can I speed up the evaporation inside my case (those are really tiny droplets of water). I have no time to tear down the rig, and wont be using my PC for at least a week.


I've spilled pastel white many times on many things (lol). It will still leave behind a kind of white film/residue once it dries. At least on say a wooden table or inside my case that's what happened.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I contacted the vendor, they said they will be sending a replacement . I guess this batch of clear x1 is bad, I thought it was weird that it was yellow. I remember it being clear when I bought a batch a year ago.
> 
> I wonder if this coolant is still good to use with some dye


my 100ml did mix up with yellow tint. But I had a bottle of the 250ml uv blue clear and it mixes up clear than I added a few drops of blue dye last night.


----------



## 0ldChicken

@emsj86 that looks great! I rather like the color

On another note: I had a very exciting thought concerning Aurora this morning. I use quick disconnects to attach my pc to my rad table, I could temporarily reverse the flow in the pc to help kick up particles that settled down. Then I though about getting another 2 sets and I could put them on both sides of the pumps/res and reverse the entire loop in seconds. That would surely help kick up a ton of the particles!

I'm going to order more qdc's asap and try this out!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> @emsj86 that looks great! I rather like the color
> 
> On another note: I had a very exciting thought concerning Aurora this morning. I use quick disconnects to attach my pc to my rad table, I could temporarily reverse the flow in the pc to help kick up particles that settled down. Then I though about getting another 2 sets and I could put them on both sides of the pumps/res and reverse the entire loop in seconds. That would surely help kick up a ton of the particles!
> 
> I'm going to order more qdc's asap and try this out!


Only Remedy that I needed to get the particles moving again was to introduce a little air in the system. Depending on what type of reservoir you have, you could lower the waterline in there below the tube that the water routes back to the reservoir.

This would allow the surface tension of the water to be broken and in turn introduce a small amount of oxygen in the loop, that oxygen in turn would start to go places that it wasn't before: stirring up the aurora particles.

TCO


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Only Remedy that I needed to get the particles moving again was to introduce a little air in the system. Depending on what type of reservoir you have, you could lower the waterline in there below the tube that the water routes back to the reservoir.
> 
> This would allow the surface tension of the water to be broken and in turn introduce a small amount of oxygen in the loop, that oxygen in turn would start to go places that it wasn't before: stirring up the aurora particles.
> 
> TCO


Thanks tco, I'm still jealous of your 10 month run with Aurora!
I've tried to aerate it once but I only seemed to get maybe half to come back up and it seemed to die even quicker than originally (maybe I should try more air). Not to mention it's a huge pain with my current set up. I know I shouldn't be using Aurora in this loop at all, I told myself I'd let go and not fuss with it after it dropped it, but here I am haha

I'm using a bay res (I know that's not helping) and I tilt the table about 45° to let a couple short bursts of air through but then I'm bleeding my rads again which is a pita (more tilting the table around) and takes forever. I've also got to remove the pc from the loop for this process since it sits on top of the table and I'd like to reverse flow the blocks especially.

it'd be great if I could just switch the in/out for a few minutes and switch them back. If it works of course, I will report back as soon as I know.

I've got a build log in my sig if my explanation was poor, sorry I'm on mobile
Edit: aerate in reverse flow?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Thanks tco, I'm still jealous of your 10 month run with Aurora!
> I've tried to aerate it once but I only seemed to get maybe half to come back up and it seemed to die even quicker than originally (maybe I should try more air). Not to mention it's a huge pain with my current set up. I know I shouldn't be using Aurora in this loop at all, I told myself I'd let go and not fuss with it after it dropped it, but here I am haha
> 
> I'm using a bay res (I know that's not helping) and I tilt the table about 45° to let a couple short bursts of air through but then I'm bleeding my rads again which is a pita (more tilting the table around) and takes forever. I've also got to remove the pc from the loop for this process since it sits on top of the table and I'd like to reverse flow the blocks especially.
> 
> it'd be great if I could just switch the in/out for a few minutes and switch them back. If it works of course, I will report back as soon as I know.
> 
> I've got a build log in my sig if my explanation was poor, sorry I'm on mobile
> Edit: aerate in reverse flow?


Just seen your log and can see why the aurora has dropped out, way way way to much restriction me thinks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Thanks tco, I'm still jealous of your 10 month run with Aurora!
> I've tried to aerate it once but I only seemed to get maybe half to come back up and it seemed to die even quicker than originally (maybe I should try more air). Not to mention it's a huge pain with my current set up. *I know I shouldn't be using Aurora in this loop at all,* I told myself I'd let go and not fuss with it after it dropped it, but here I am haha
> 
> I'm using a bay res (I know that's not helping) and I tilt the table about 45° to let a couple short bursts of air through but then I'm bleeding my rads again which is a pita (more tilting the table around) and takes forever. I've also got to remove the pc from the loop for this process since it sits on top of the table and I'd like to reverse flow the blocks especially.
> 
> it'd be great if I could just switch the in/out for a few minutes and switch them back. If it works of course, I will report back as soon as I know.
> 
> I've got a build log in my sig if my explanation was poor, sorry I'm on mobile
> Edit: aerate in reverse flow?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Just seen your log and can see why the aurora has dropped out, way way way to much restriction me thinks.


Pretty sure He knows that already...



TCO


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Thanks tco, I'm still jealous of your 10 month run with Aurora!
> I've tried to aerate it once but I only seemed to get maybe half to come back up and it seemed to die even quicker than originally (maybe I should try more air). Not to mention it's a huge pain with my current set up. *I know I shouldn't be using Aurora in this loop at all,* I told myself I'd let go and not fuss with it after it dropped it, but here I am haha
> 
> I'm using a bay res (I know that's not helping) and I tilt the table about 45° to let a couple short bursts of air through but then I'm bleeding my rads again which is a pita (more tilting the table around) and takes forever. I've also got to remove the pc from the loop for this process since it sits on top of the table and I'd like to reverse flow the blocks especially.
> 
> it'd be great if I could just switch the in/out for a few minutes and switch them back. If it works of course, I will report back as soon as I know.
> 
> I've got a build log in my sig if my explanation was poor, sorry I'm on mobile
> Edit: aerate in reverse flow?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Just seen your log and can see why the aurora has dropped out, way way way to much restriction me thinks.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Pretty sure He knows that already...
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Just seen your log and can see why the aurora has dropped out, way way way to much restriction me thinks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Pretty sure He knows that already...
> TCO


Indeed! Restriction... Rads and 90° fittings everywhere... Bay res... Multiple tube reservoirs in the middle of the loop... Maybe I just don't know when to give up









Na! I will tame this wild beast, known as Aurora, to do my bidding


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Indeed! Restriction... Rads and 90° fittings everywhere... Bay res... Multiple tube reservoirs in the middle of the loop... Maybe I just don't know when to give up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Na! I will tame this wild beast, known as Aurora, to do my bidding


I here to see the results. Waiting patiently!

TCO


----------



## ivoryg37

I've always wanted to try aurora, I wonder how it would hold up in this loop configuration. I'm due for a coolant change so I may give it a try for fun. The only difference is I may be changing out the motherboard in this build for an impact vii with the impact block. However, the particle might get trapped in the radiator since it's upside down. Is it hard to flush the radiator of particles when draining?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I've always wanted to try aurora, I wonder how it would hold up in this loop configuration. I'm due for a coolant change so I may give it a try for fun. The only difference is I may be changing out the motherboard in this build for an impact vii with the impact block. However, the particle might get trapped in the radiator since it's upside down. Is it hard to flush the radiator of particles when draining?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


As you have a very simple loop with what looks like no dead zones (Drains, or tubes that are cut off for drains) then the aurora would continually flow.

TCO


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Indeed! Restriction... Rads and 90° fittings everywhere... Bay res... Multiple tube reservoirs in the middle of the loop... Maybe I just don't know when to give up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Na! I will tame this wild beast, known as Aurora, to do my bidding


Ah okay so basically this then.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ah okay so basically this then.


now you're getting it!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> now you're getting it!


Ah, okay not sure why but okay.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Ah, okay not sure why but okay.


really? You don't get why someone would want to figure out how to make Aurora work long term in a decently complex loop? (edit:







)


----------



## kush621

Mick,

I am looking to make a very vibrant purple. Say a purple that is as bright and vivid as your pastel pink. What dye. combination would you would work best?

a good reference would be the "Acid Purple" sleeving from Ensourced. http://www.ensourced.net/acid-purple-paracord-sleeved-extensions/


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> really? You don't get why someone would want to figure out how to make Aurora work long term in a decently complex loop?


Sure.


----------



## emsj86

Mmmmm aurora booster


----------



## SteezyTN

How often should Mayhems Pastel Ice White be changed? Ive been using it for a year and four months now, but it is so watered down. I've been stupid multiple times and forgot to close ports on rads and just spilling while filling, so I add more distilled to fill up my reservoirs.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> How often should Mayhems Pastel Ice White be changed? Ive been using it for a year and four months now, but it is so watered down. I've been stupid multiple times and forgot to close ports on rads and just spilling while filling, so I add more distilled to fill up my reservoirs.


I would change any fluid that has been running for more than 12months,.

TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I would change any fluid that has been running for more than 12months,.
> 
> TCO


Okay cool. Thanks TCO. I decided to make my loop into two loops, and so red and white.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay cool. Thanks TCO. I decided to make my loop into two loops, and so red and white.


No Problem and sounds interesting.







Keep us updated!









TCO


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No Problem and sounds interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep us updated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Thanks man. Looking really forward to it. The way I have it now is an eye sore lol.

And I also forgot to ask... does anyone know if it's safe to pour Pastel down the sink drain? I'm asking because it has the warning on the bottle, but I remember some threads where people say it's safe. I just want to double check to be sure.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Thanks man. Looking really forward to it. The way I have it now is an eye sore lol.
> 
> And I also forgot to ask... does anyone know if *it's safe to pour Pastel down the sink drain*? I'm asking because it has the warning on the bottle, but I remember some threads where people say it's safe. I just want to double check to be sure.


I have poured gallons down the drain (I have never thought it would be a problem)

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Same I pour it down the drain.


----------



## VSG

Pastel, or any nanofluid in general, is not very safe to pour directly down the drain. If you have no means to dispose otherwise, dilute it copiously at the very minimum.


----------



## eucalyptus

Hmm, I am trying to open a ticket at their support-site, but it only says this:


Tried both Chrome and Safari...


----------



## SteezyTN

So now I need some more Pastel Ice White and Pastel Red. What's the best way to go regarding the 250mL concentrate and the new 1 Liter that's already premixed. I only used the concentrate when I was using the Ice White and never had any issues

Also, what's the difference between the Extreme Pastel Ice White? Could I use that and divide it up and add red dye to one to get Pastel Red?


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So now I need some more Pastel Ice White and Pastel Red. What's the best way to go regarding the 250mL concentrate and the new 1 Liter that's already premixed. I only used the concentrate when I was using the Ice White and never had any issues
> 
> Also, what's the difference between the Extreme Pastel Ice White? Could I use that and divide it up and add red dye to one to get Pastel Red?


I used pastel extreme and mixed it with non stain yellow dye, but the yellow that I got from mixing with the dye was not the same as mayhems pastel susnet yellow.

Here is the link to mayhems website:

https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/pastel-coolants/pastel-extreme-100ml/mayhems-pastel-extreme-white-100ml/


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hmm, I am trying to open a ticket at their support-site, but it only says this:
> 
> Tried both Chrome and Safari...


Use this email and send them whatever info you wish, to:
[email protected]

It will likely be answered by Emma, a great person on their support staff.
I had to use this support email link myself, to place an order with Mayhems, for five Havoc rads recently.
Emma replied within hours, and got me the shipping info and a full quote for the order.


----------



## Gil80

hi guys.

does anyone know what's up with Mayhems support?
I contacted Mick and after few emails the correspondence stopped. I then tried to reach via their new email address, PM over PCV, PM in facebook and finally a support ticket via their website.

There's no response from them. I wonder if anyone knows what's going on.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> As you have a very simple loop with what looks like no dead zones (Drains, or tubes that are cut off for drains) then the aurora would continually flow.
> 
> TCO


I actually do have a drain at the bottom of the case connected to the Q fitting. I just chose a black dplug and drain point to hide the drain since the bottom of the acrylic is black. Anyway, I may give it a try. The only decision I have now is should I get silver or blue aurora since those are the only option I see on PPCs beside red


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Use this email and send them whatever info you wish, to:
> [email protected]
> 
> It will likely be answered by Emma, a great person on their support staff.
> I had to use this support email link myself, to place an order with Mayhems, for five Havoc rads recently.
> Emma replied within hours, and got me the shipping info and a full quote for the order.


Thanks







Appreciate your help!







Sent them an email now


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Use this email and send them whatever info you wish, to:
> [email protected]
> 
> It will likely be answered by Emma, a great person on their support staff.
> I had to use this support email link myself, to place an order with Mayhems, for five Havoc rads recently.
> Emma replied within hours, and got me the shipping info and a full quote for the order.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate your help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent them an email now
Click to expand...

Glad to help.
I last spoke to them on Sept.16th, after I received my order, and they responded right away.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So now I need some more Pastel Ice White and Pastel Red. What's the best way to go regarding the 250mL concentrate and the new 1 Liter that's already premixed. I only used the concentrate when I was using the Ice White and never had any issues
> 
> Also, what's the difference between the Extreme Pastel Ice White? Could I use that and divide it up and add red dye to one to get Pastel Red?


Get the extreme and red dye. The extreme allows to dilute up to 2 liters so boom money saved and by red dye


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Get the extreme and red dye. The extreme allows to dilute up to 2 liters so boom money saved and by red dye


I actually already decided and ordered. Decided with the regular Pastel Concentrates. Ordered 2 bottles of each. It was double the price, but I'd rather get it the right consistency, rather than trying to divide it up and and I know red can take a lot of dye to be true red. That's probably two bottles of red dye at what, $9 a pop. So overall, it was probably like $18 more by buying the concentrates.


----------



## rolldog

Since I've finished my system, I'm now working with the coolants. I've attached an MNPC mounting bracket with 2 switches on my 120mm extended top, and what I want to try and do is press one button and all the UV lights come one while all the white lights go out, and the opposite happens when you press the buttom again. I don't think I'm going to be able to accomplish what I'm trying to do, but I should be able to get close using the X1 Clear UV Blue Concentrate. I think the blue is the only color that can be also be clear. I don't think white/clear will be an option for one loop, but I can live with that.

Also, the 2 ventilation spots on the top of my case where the top rads exhaust are coming out. I'm installing windows on top, and PrimoChill is custom making the ventilated windows using their hex design. I'm just trying to decide if I should keep the top windows clear acrylic or use a flourescent blue acrylic, which I could edge light with the UV lights when I press the button. If I use edge lit flourescent acrylic, then the acrylic will glow all around the hex ventilation. Hmmmm, decisions, decisions....


----------



## krutoydiesel

Has anyone ever tried getting the pink/orange antifreeze color with Mayhem's dyes? I am trying to achieve this in my upcoming loop refresh.

The color on the left in the image below.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Glad to help.
> I last spoke to them on Sept.16th, after I received my order, and they responded right away.


It's weird. I sent them an email long ago, no answer what so ever.

Their "ticket support" still doesn't work, no matter which browser I try :/


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Glad to help.
> I last spoke to them on Sept.16th, after I received my order, and they responded right away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's weird. I sent them an email long ago, no answer what so ever.
> 
> Their "ticket support" still doesn't work, no matter which browser I try :/
Click to expand...

Yikes!
There is also this email, although you may have tried it already:

[email protected]

Another thing you could try, is to send a pm to Mick here at OCN?
His user name is Mayhem (obviously, lol.)


----------



## charliebrown

will 1 bottle of coolant be enough for 250 res 480 rad 2 gpus and a cpu


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Since I've finished my system, I'm now working with the coolants. I've attached an MNPC mounting bracket with 2 switches on my 120mm extended top, and what I want to try and do is press one button and all the UV lights come one while all the white lights go out, and the opposite happens when you press the buttom again. I don't think I'm going to be able to accomplish what I'm trying to do, but I should be able to get close using the X1 Clear UV Blue Concentrate. I think the blue is the only color that can be also be clear. I don't think white/clear will be an option for one loop, but I can live with that.
> 
> Also, the 2 ventilation spots on the top of my case where the top rads exhaust are coming out. I'm installing windows on top, and PrimoChill is custom making the ventilated windows using their hex design. I'm just trying to decide if I should keep the top windows clear acrylic or use a flourescent blue acrylic, which I could edge light with the UV lights when I press the button. If I use edge lit flourescent acrylic, then the acrylic will glow all around the hex ventilation. Hmmmm, decisions, decisions....


From a quick glance at your build I would say it could turn out looking great, or too bright, gaudy and "out of place" if the rest of the case didn't have that same edge glow but I don't have an exact mental picture of what you're intending.

Decisions are tough, regretting a decision is even worse.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Has anyone ever tried getting the pink/orange antifreeze color with Mayhem's dyes? I am trying to achieve this in my upcoming loop refresh.
> 
> The color on the left in the image below.


i know it's not very Mayhems related but Aquacomputer Double Protect Plus orange is probably the colour you're looking for, it looks very pink/redish when in bottle but once in the tubes it's got nice orange/pink colour. if you want any in loop photos send me pm, i don't want to spam in Mayhems thread


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> i know it's not very Mayhems related but Aquacomputer Double Protect Plus orange is probably the colour you're looking for, it looks very pink/redish when in bottle but once in the tubes it's got nice orange/pink colour. if you want any in loop photos send me pm, i don't want to spam in Mayhems thread


PM SENT


----------



## toggLesss

rawrrrrrrrrrr


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Glad to help.
> I last spoke to them on Sept.16th, after I received my order, and they responded right away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's weird. I sent them an email long ago, no answer what so ever.
> 
> Their "ticket support" still doesn't work, no matter which browser I try :/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yikes!
> There is also this email, although you may have tried it already:
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> Another thing you could try, is to send a pm to Mick here at OCN?
> His user name is Mayhem (obviously, lol.)
Click to expand...

PMing him here won't work as he has decided to leave again due to the fact he cannot advertise here for free.


----------



## SteezyTN

Pretty sure I ordered too much coolant







Anywhossss, what's the best way to store leftover coolant when it's already been mixed? Can I just leave it in an empty distilled water jug?


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure I ordered too much coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anywhossss, what's the best way to store leftover coolant when it's already been mixed? Can I just leave it in an empty distilled water jug?


That's what I did with my leftovers, however overtime the coolant started to thin out due to it not moving around, but I would just give it a shake from time to time to get everything back in place.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> PMing him here won't work as he has decided to leave again due to the fact he cannot advertise here for free.


Thanks for the info, Bites.

Kind of sad to hear it though, but that's his choice unfortunately.


----------



## pompss

I have aurora v4 .
My rad is nemesis 480 rad cpu block and gpu block . what you guys think will work good for at least 4 months ?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> I have aurora v4 .
> My rad is nemesis 480 rad cpu block and gpu block . what you guys think will work good for at least 4 months ?


I haven't used anything past v2 but you've got a decent chance if you use high pump speeds. Pics of the loop would help, but really just keep dead spots to a minimum (none preferably).
edit: also, where'd you get v4? and what color did you order? I might get some more if I could for sure get v4


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I haven't used anything past v2 but you've got a decent chance if you use high pump speeds. Pics of the loop would help, but really just keep dead spots to a minimum (none preferably).
> edit: also, where'd you get v4? and what color did you order? I might get some more if I could for sure get v4


modmymods have v4 at least the aurora 2 blue version.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> modmymods have v4 at least the aurora 2 blue version.


Cool, I'll order up some of their grey with the plugs I was going to order from them anyhow. Interested to see what I get


----------



## Prophet4NO1

I am about to drain my loop and refill with some fresh Aurora. Lost it's luster a few months ago. My biggest issue is the machine is not on all the time. So, everything settles. But, I plan to try this drain and fill a few times till it either starts to plug the loop, or stabilizes it's self. Kind of a long experiment that might be interesting. Worst case is I will have a big cleaning job on my hands.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> I am about to drain my loop and refill with some fresh Aurora. Lost it's luster a few months ago. My biggest issue is the machine is not on all the time. So, everything settles. But, I plan to try this drain and fill a few times till it either starts to plug the loop, or stabilizes it's self. Kind of a long experiment that might be interesting. Worst case is I will have a big cleaning job on my hands.


I'm about to order some QDC's to see if temporarily reversing the flow will help kick everything up. Took me a while to get an order together since I needed some other stuff. It'll be a few weeks but I'll post results here, and I'll be looking for yours as well.


----------



## pompss

Have question for Mayhems rep
My bltiz part two its still collection some dirt on the resorvoir ina form of foam.
The acid its running for 24 hours now so my question is should i keep it running until no drit its coming out or i have to flush it ?


----------



## SteezyTN

Waited so long to finally use this new mousepad and new mouse. Need to replace the keyboard though. Loop is all done. This loop is by far my most favorite. Won't be changing for a good while. Still deciding if it's worth it to open two new bottles of Pastel Ice White and red to top of the reservoirs.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Waited so long to finally use this new mousepad and new mouse. Need to replace the keyboard though. Loop is all done. This loop is by far my most favorite. Won't be changing for a good while. *Still deciding if it's worth it to open two new bottles of Pastel Ice White and red to top of the reservoirs*.


Just stating the obvious, my $.05 that the reason for such nice liquid and its nice btw. is the aesthetics, so make it worth to the full potential and fill it to the rim, make it look awesome


----------



## anarchoi

Any real life experience that confirms Mayhems Pastel Red can really be used for 3 years without any problem or color change, as stated by the manufacturer ? Assuming proper flushing has been done prior to filling the loop with coolant, of course


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anarchoi*
> 
> Any real life experience that confirms Mayhems Pastel Red can really be used for 3 years without any problem or color change, as stated by the manufacturer ? Assuming proper flushing has been done prior to filling the loop with coolant, of course


I believe the label says it's good for 3 years, meaning it can sit on your shelf for 3 years. If you are using it in a system the life is 9-12 months, others can confirm or deny this.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> I believe the label says it's good for 3 years, meaning it can sit on your shelf for 3 years. If you are using it in a system the life is *9-12 months*, others can confirm or deny this.


I will confirm this.

After 12months, you will want to change the fluid.

TCO


----------



## geox19

Read OP it says right there they have tested it for up to three years in a systems. Might dye your blocks so on and so on. I think anarchoi is asking if anyone has gone 3 years with out changing the pastel fluid.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Read OP it says right there they have tested it for up to three years in a systems. Might dye your blocks so on and so on. I think anarchoi is asking if anyone has gone 3 years with out changing the pastel fluid.


Yes, the manufacturer should test their products well beyond the spec that they recommend for customers. That is or should be normal process for manufacturers.

The OP is trying to bypass the work that is required for a custom loop, cleaning, flushing, and changing the coolant.

*Your coolant should be changed every 9 to 12 months*


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Yes, the manufacturer should test their products well beyond the spec that they recommend for customers. That is or should be normal process for manufacturers.
> 
> The OP is trying to bypass the work that is required for a custom loop, cleaning, flushing, and changing the coolant.
> 
> *Your coolant should be changed every 9 to 12 months*


where does it say they recommend changing pastel in 9 to 12 months? so are you saying that Mayhems pastel breaks down and should no longer be used past 9 to 12 months? Where does that information come from? Have you used it for 3 years then run tests on the fluid.


----------



## Kenjiwing

I ran pastel for 3+ years with no issues at all.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> I believe the label says it's good for 3 years, meaning it can sit on your shelf for 3 years. If you are using it in a system the life is *9-12 months*, others can confirm or deny this.
> 
> 
> 
> I will confirm this.
> 
> After 12months, you will want to change the fluid.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

I think you guys are thinking of X1. Pastel should be good for 3 years, assuming you did proper cleaning/prep on the loop. You do need to run it through a coffee filter after a year of use though.


----------



## rolldog

Since I've finished my system, I'm now working with the coolants. I've attached an MNPC mounting bracket with 2 switches on my 120mm extended top, and what I want to try and do is press one button and all the UV lights come one while all the white lights go out, and the opposite happens when you press the buttom again. I don't think I'm going to be able to accomplish what I'm trying to do, but I should be able to get close using the X1 Clear UV Blue Concentrate. I think the blue is the only color that can be also be clear. I don't think white/clear will be an option for one loop, but I can live with that.

Also, the 2 ventilation spots on the top of my case where the top rads exhaust are coming out. I'm installing windows on top, and PrimoChill is custom making the ventilated windows using their hex design. I'm just trying to decide if I should keep the top windows clear acrylic or use a flourescent blue acrylic, which I could edge light with the UV lights when I press the button. If I use edge lit flourescent acrylic, then the acrylic will glow all around the hex ventilation. Hmmmm, decisions, decisions....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Have question for Mayhems rep
> My bltiz part two its still collection some dirt on the resorvoir ina form of foam.
> The acid its running for 24 hours now so my question is should i keep it running until no drit its coming out or i have to flush it ?


It's supposed to foam. It'll foam forever depending on how your loop it hooked up. You're supposed to run that stuff for 12 hours and then flush the entire loop 3 to 4 times to get the remaining Blitz out. I poured mine down the sink, even though it said I wasn't supposed to, but when you're running distilled through your loop to flush out the Blitz, you can tell when it's out. When you empty the bowl, or whatever you have it draining into, in the sink and it doesn't create anymore bubbles, it's just about clean.


----------



## anarchoi

Quote:


> I believe the label says it's good for 3 years, meaning it can sit on your shelf for 3 years. If you are using it in a system the life is 9-12 months, others can confirm or deny this.


No, they say "in-system lifespan of 3 years"
Quote:


> Read OP it says right there they have tested it for up to three years in a systems. Might dye your blocks so on and so on. I think anarchoi is asking if anyone has gone 3 years with out changing the pastel fluid.


I have read original post and Mayhems website, i am asking for real-life experience that confirm you can really use it up to 3 years (not more) without any problem, because on this forum some members are saying it won't even last a few months. I want to know if anybody here used it for 3 years without any problem.
Quote:


> The OP is trying to bypass the work that is required for a custom loop, cleaning, flushing, and changing the coolant.
> Your coolant should be changed every 9 to 12 months


Not trying to bypass anything, just following manufacturer instructions. It's not called a bypass when the manufacturer advertise everywhere it can be done.
I've run a distilled water water cooling loop for over 6 years doing the maintenance everytime it's required and it's not a problem.
But if the product is guaranteed to work up to 3 years (that's what advertised by Mayhems) then why would i waste my time and my money just to change the coolant...
Quote:


> I ran pastel for 3+ years with no issues at all.


Interessing ! Thanks for sharing your experience. Did you monitor the pH at all ? Some guys who had problems with Mayhems Pastel were told by Mayhems that the pH got out of balance and that's what messed up the loop


----------



## rolldog

Ok, since getting my rig built enough to where I can leak test it, I've spent the last couple of weeks trying out different colors of Mayhems in each loop trying to decide what I think looks the best. Once I finally finished it, I loved the look of my rig with white lighting and clear distilled water running through my loops. Originally, I was planning to run Pastel White in one loop and Pastel Blue in the other loop, so I already had the coolant so I tried it out to see how it looked.

After a couple of days of the blue and white, I decided I still liked the clear coolant the best, so I spent about a day trying to flush all the color out of my loops. After flushing everything out, I've come up with another idea. I thought I would run both loops with the Clear Blue UV, so sometimes it runs with the clean look of having distilled in my loops, and I'm installing a switch that will turn on UV lighting when I want and have blue coolant. The Clear Blue UV still has a clean look to it even when it's blue. I guess because it doesn't look as thick as Pastel does.

However, I'm curious to know one thing about running Clear Blue UV. Does anyone know if it can be concentrated more than what the mixing directions recommend to get a darker blue when the UV lights are on? I had a bottle of the pre-mix, which I started filling my loops with. It has a blueish tint to it under UV. Then I use some of the concentrate to finish filling my loops, using the correct mixing suggestions, and after my loops were full, I put a couple drops of the Clear UV Blue Dye in each loop, which darkened it some.

I was just curious if the color gets a stronger blue color if it's concentrated more, or do you reach the wall of diminishing returns where it doesn't matter how much dye or concentrate is added, the blue will always stay that color. Then I though maybe the opposite will happen, because whenever the Clear Blue UV dye is added to clear water under a UV light, when it initially mixes with the water it's a yellowish color. It takes a little time before it turns blue. Is anyone familiar with this coolant and can answer these questions for me?

On another note, would it be safe to add some of the Clear Blue UV dye to the mix that's used in a fog machine or a bubble machine? Halloween is getting close, so my wheels are turning.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> where does it say they recommend changing pastel in 9 to 12 months? so are you saying that Mayhems pastel breaks down and should no longer be used past 9 to 12 months? Where does that information come from? Have you used it for 3 years then run tests on the fluid.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I think you guys are thinking of X1. Pastel should be good for 3 years, assuming you did proper cleaning/prep on the loop. You do need to run it through a coffee filter after a year of use though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anarchoi*
> 
> No, they say "in-system lifespan of 3 years"
> I have read original post and Mayhems website, i am asking for real-life experience that confirm you can really use it up to 3 years (not more) without any problem, because on this forum some members are saying it won't even last a few months. I want to know if anybody here used it for 3 years without any problem.
> Not trying to bypass anything, just following manufacturer instructions. It's not called a bypass when the manufacturer advertise everywhere it can be done.
> I've run a distilled water water cooling loop for over 6 years doing the maintenance everytime it's required and it's not a problem.
> But if the product is guaranteed to work up to 3 years (that's what advertised by Mayhems) then why would i waste my time and my money just to change the coolant...
> Interessing ! Thanks for sharing your experience. Did you monitor the pH at all ? Some guys who had problems with Mayhems Pastel were told by Mayhems that the pH got out of balance and that's what messed up the loop


I just checked the website and it clearly states can be stored for up to 3 years, nowhere does it state on pastel liquids that they can be used for 3 years, only shelf life of 3 years. It also clearly says system life span of up to 2 years. Now most of the water-cooling gurus on this forum will advise to change your coolant every 9-12 months


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> I just checked the website and it clearly states can be stored for up to 3 years, nowhere does it state on pastel liquids that they can be used for 3 years, only shelf life of 3 years. It also clearly says system life span of up to 2 years. Now most of the water-cooling gurus on this forum will *advise to change your coolant every 9-12 months*


There it is again... I wonder if this keeps being said because it's true?









TCO


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> There it is again... I wonder if this keeps being said because it's true?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I think the worry is that not enough people have confirmed it, a little searching will show that most of the loop lifers recommend that life span. People also keep quoting Mick's original post, which who knows when it has been updated last.(Most likely a while back since the newer auroras or the pastel extreme are not mentioned whatsoever, and the XT-1 is claimed as "new")


----------



## TheCautiousOne

What does a bottle of Pastel Concentrate Cost? 20 USD?









Just Change it after 12months.

TCO


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> I just checked the website and it clearly states can be stored for up to 3 years, nowhere does it state on pastel liquids that they can be used for 3 years, only shelf life of 3 years. It also clearly says system life span of up to 2 years. Now most of the water-cooling gurus on this forum will advise to change your coolant every 9-12 months


Lol man your research skills are lacking. You could just read the first post in this thread and see that it says used in system for three years. Mayhems also says it's one of the advantages price wise because it last so long over other coolants.

Water cooling gurus say to do this or that. lol too funny what exactly makes these guys the Know all be all?? DO you actually know whats in the pastel if you do you would have reason to believe it could last three years. I'm not saying you should't drain your fluid every year I'm saying that Mayhems pastel coolant could very well be good for three years running in a system. Why just replace it if its still good. Yeah $20.00 a bottle times 6 I think i'll monitor the ph levels and trust that my inline filters are doing there job. If it changes colors or my temps start rising then I'll replace it. Just my 2cents not Jayz2cents


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> I think the worry is that not enough people have confirmed it, a little searching will show that most of the loop lifers recommend that life span. *People also keep quoting Mick's original post, which who knows when it has been updated last.(Most likely a while back since the newer auroras or the pastel extreme are not mentioned whatsoever, and the XT-1 is claimed as "new")*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Lol man your research skills are lacking. You could just read the first post in this thread and see that it says used in system for three years. Mayhems also says it's one of the advantages price wise because it last so long over other coolants


See above in bold please.

Mick doesn't update this post very often if at all. His website @ mayhems.co.uk is the place to go.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Lol man your research skills are lacking. You could just read the first post in this thread and see that it says used in system for three years. Mayhems also says it's one of the advantages price wise because it last so long over other coolants.
> 
> *Water cooling gurus say to do this or that. lol too funny what exactly makes these guys the Know all be all*??


Here. Just take this and be satisfied.

2 years running. 3 years Stored.



Link to Pastel

TCO


----------



## geox19

Copied and pasted right from Mayhems Knowledge base on their website. I'm satisfied http://support.mayhems.net/kb/index.php
Mayhems Pastel Range of Coolants (2)
Mayhems Pastel Nano fluid is a mixed bag of tricks and has a extremely long life span. This product was developed in conjunction with "Ice Dragon Cooling" to produce pastel type colours for the PC user. Mayhems Pastel Coolants can be used **up to 3 years in a system.

** Depends on various factors such as how clean is your Loop or excessive heat load..
Can Mayhems Pastel Extreme and Mayhems Pastel be mixed ?
My Pastel Coolant has changed colour ?


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Copied and pasted right from Mayhems Knowledge base on their website. I'm satisfied http://support.mayhems.net/kb/index.php
> Mayhems Pastel Range of Coolants (2)
> Mayhems Pastel Nano fluid is a mixed bag of tricks and has a extremely long life span. This product was developed in conjunction with "Ice Dragon Cooling" to produce pastel type colours for the PC user. Mayhems Pastel Coolants can be used **up to 3 years in a system.
> 
> ** Depends on various factors such as how clean is your Loop or excessive heat load..
> Can Mayhems Pastel Extreme and Mayhems Pastel be mixed ?
> My Pastel Coolant has changed colour ?


If you have any questions you should really go to their support page on the website and open a ticket.

Mick(Mayhems himself) doesn't frequent this forum anymore.


----------



## anarchoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> I just checked the website and it clearly states can be stored for up to 3 years, nowhere does it state on pastel liquids that they can be used for 3 years, only shelf life of 3 years. It also clearly says system life span of up to 2 years. Now most of the water-cooling gurus on this forum will advise to change your coolant every 9-12 months


It's on the official website... 3 YEARS !!!

https://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems-coolant-guide/
Quote:


> Mayhems Pastel Coolants
> Mayhems Pastel Coolants are a Nano based coolant that have an outstanding reputation not only for looks but also for performance. This fluid not only stands out from all the other manufacturers of coolants but all so kicks them in the teeth with metal toe capped boots. Mayhems Pastel is a solid looking coolant that comes in many colours and once again like Mayhems other fluids can be mixed or adjusted to suit your colouring needs using Mayhems Dyes. It has all the biocides and inhibitors in the liquid and needs nothing extra adding. Mayhems Pastel is one of the longest lasting coolants out on the market to date and *will last over 3 years with no problems ever reported* and this actually makes the coolants more economically viable than any other premixed coolant on the market.


The same thing is stated on the first post of this thread


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anarchoi*
> 
> It's on the official website... 3 YEARS !!!
> 
> https://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems-coolant-guide/
> The same thing is stated on the first post of this thread


Man you just made me laugh so hard I don't even know why. Sometimes going to forums for answers is the same as reading Amazon reviews.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> If you have any questions you should really go to their support page on the website and open a ticket.
> 
> Mick(Mayhems himself) doesn't frequent this forum anymore.


Well, for me the site is broken... When I try open a ticket it only says "404 error: you don't have permission to change any php data on this site" or something similar...

Tried different browsers and different computers!


----------



## saintruski

When using mayhems blitz part 1, am i better off flushing the radiator after using a faucet? I just filled up my radiator completely about 7-8 times with distilled water and poured it out, and about 5 times between the full fills i filled it half way and gave it a bit of a shake then poured it out. (seemed like i over did it but i wanted to make sure i got it all out)


----------



## dgmul

Hey, I'm about to fill up my reservoir with XT-1. I know 5% is the minimum concentration, but is there a good reason to use more (other than frost protection, which I don't need)? The fluid that came with my cooler got an algae infection, and I'd like to avoid that if possible.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgmul*
> 
> Hey, I'm about to fill up my reservoir with XT-1. I know 5% is the minimum concentration, but is there a good reason to use more (other than frost protection, which I don't need)? The fluid that came with my cooler got an algae infection, and I'd like to avoid that if possible.


The only reason to use more is to have more of the biocide and anti corrosion additives.
I think 10% is a good starting point. Some would even use 20% and that shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## 414347

bump


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> The only reason to use more is to have more of the biocide and anti corrosion additives.
> I think 10% is a good starting point. Some would even use 20% and that shouldn't be a problem.


I agree, 10% should be minimum if you don't want to worry about micro bacteria buildup. There was a thread about someone having to use X1 and end up with algae, but it was also mentioned that the person used minimum of X1 and didn't change the liquid for over a year.

If for whatever reason you use such small amount at least change it more often before any algae development.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgmul*
> 
> Hey, I'm about to fill up my reservoir with XT-1. I know 5% is the minimum concentration, but is there a good reason to use more (other than frost protection, which I don't need)? The fluid that came with my cooler got an algae infection, and I'd like to avoid that if possible.


I had an algea infection within 6 months at about 8% mix ratio. Some pages back, Mayhems official response was that XT-1's biocide breaks down faster at higher temperatures. My coolant temp averaged 36c-41c under load. I would recommend at least 15% or wait for the supposedly new "XT1 Plus" which Mayhems claimed they've been shipping a lot of for AIO's but haven't had the time to bottle, label, and market it for retail yet (I assume Swiftech's prestige series AIOs use it, but unconfirmed.).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dgmul*
> 
> Hey, I'm about to fill up my reservoir with XT-1. I know 5% is the minimum concentration, but is there a good reason to use more (other than frost protection, which I don't need)? The fluid that came with my cooler got an algae infection, and I'd like to avoid that if possible.
> 
> 
> 
> The only reason to use more is to have more of the biocide and anti corrosion additives.
> I think 10% is a good starting point. Some would even use 20% and that shouldn't be a problem.
Click to expand...

+1 agreed here, I think 20% would actually be necessary for biocide protection of the advertised 9-12 month recommended coolant change. I guess Mayhems thought people would be mostly using it for subzero stuff so it didn't need much biocide? Or perhaps they put less biocide in it purposely due to the intended variable mix ratio for subzero (too much biocide might have been corrosive?).

But, I'm thinking 20% would negate the viscosity benefit of the EG based XT-1 coolant over using 10% of regular X1...


----------



## Killa Cam

Hey mick, any plans on making a ocean blue non stain dye?


----------



## emsj86

I see no real benefits in the non stain dye. It still will stain blocks it's more
Non staining for carpets and such


----------



## ivoryg37

I know you get problems for over diluting but will underdiluting coolant also produce problems in the loop? Less distill and more coolant


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Hey mick, any plans on making a ocean blue non stain dye?


Apparently, Mick is no longer on OCN.
I heard this from Bitemarks and bloodstains:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/14160#post_25553562

I guess he still has his Facebook page, or maybe he can be contacted through his retail site, idk.


----------



## Fyrwulf

I wouldn't bet on getting any help in that direction. I've had an open ticket since February about color matching my custom powder coated case and there's been no response since an initial exchange of e-mails.


----------



## dgmul

Thanks *Gil80*, *NewUser16*, and *s74r1*. I decided to go with a 20% dilution. Hopefully that holds for a solid 12 months.


----------



## eucalyptus

I finally got my hands on them through the ticket system... Apparently my message were to long, that's why I got the PHP error message.

Wrote my letter in Word and saved it as PDF and it worked







Sent it in on a Friday, a very kindful reply came back on Monday or Tuesday with happy news
















I met Kevin in their Support, very very nice guy indeed!


----------



## greg1184

I just got the silver in win 909 case to replace my white entroo promo. I'm debating what color scheme I should go with.

A) white / uv white
B) some type of blue
C) purple
D) orange (a 10 edition silver /black / orange) theme

What do you guys think go well with that case?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I finally got my hands on them through the ticket system... Apparently my message were to long, that's why I got the PHP error message.
> 
> Wrote my letter in Word and saved it as PDF and it worked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent it in on a Friday, a very kindful reply came back on Monday or Tuesday with happy news
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I met Kevin in their Support, very very nice guy indeed!


Glad you figured out a workaround, and managed to get through.

Their staff are really good people.


----------



## s74r1

Still no XT1 Plus. Needs warning label on XT-1 if biocide breaks down prematurely. I doubt many people maintain <35c without huge radiators or loud fans in loop. Especially those going for silent rigs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> XT1 Plus will be a few weeks before i can get around to making it in bulk, currently swiftech are using it in there Aio's how ever i have to design labels, bar codes and introduce them once i get some time free. ATM were hand making & shipping 3,000+ Ltrs of coolant a week and this is taking up a lot of time.
> 
> 10% ratio should last around 9 months how ever the temps are very extreme and could possibly burn out the Biocide much quicker as it was deved for systems around -60 to 35c (ratio dependent). Car coolants are a different ball game and afraid to say we do not make car coolants atm and don't use car coolants.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> In your case the new XT1 plus will be perfect. The new biocide and additives are rated for a much higher heat loads (upwards of 90c+) and so far we haven't seen any colour change in the last few months nor brake down, this is testing at 50+ 24/7 and in front of a window direct to UV light with the new red dye.
> 
> We have also been working on a X1 Plus as well but need extra time to do this and the same goes for pastel plus. We have to be careful though as we may end up giving to many options lol.
> 
> If i get some time this week ill push to move this forwards for general release.


Why OEM get preferential treatment? According to Mayhem ethics:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems ethics fall in this order -
> 
> Support for the Consumer and Reseller alike. No one is treated any differently. Every one is equal no matter if you spend £0 or £10,000 with us.
> Distribution - we do not sell in every shop going and we refuse to sell in a lot of shops. We will not flood the market as we feel this destroys the market place and the products.
> Products - We strive for quality and if there is a problem we will sort it out as fast as we possibly can. No company is perfect, but by working closely with our consumers and resellers we aim to come pretty dammed close
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


There's certainly a problem with XT-1 and Mayhems has not "sort[ed] it out fast". Not everyone wants a VG/PG coolant or whatever it is in X1.

(Please send all flame posts to my inbox, my intention is not to disrupt this thread. I'm just frustrated and tired of waiting. I have to either buy a Swiftech AIO for this "fixed" coolant, or find another brand which I'd rather not as I'm fond of Mayhems.)


----------



## Ovrclck

I'm due for a flush soon. How much longer do you guys think until xt-1 plus is made readily available to us? Month maybe?


----------



## 414347

I can totally confirm that XT-1 if doesn't exceed very high temp it holds biocide well. My nephew using 1 and his temps never gets beyond 29-32C and after 13 months no issue and he's been doing that for while now, but he also have 4 x480 rads that cooling the liquid very well, he also mixes about 20% with DI


----------



## Iceman2733

Question is Mayhems Pastel UV Green the replacement for Mint green or where can you find mint green like I have seen a few times in this thread? I love that color hate to order a bunch of UV green and it not be the correct color I have seen.


----------



## ToxM82

Iv got a question, I just drained my loop and did a flush, since I had to add some parts I was running distilled water with about 15 drops of UV Clear Blue, 6 drops of Deep Ocean blue, and a few drops of bio-side. all was fine minus the UV faded away in about a month, first off is that normal?

After flushing my system I did a quick vinegar wash (10-15minutes) with the loop on, to get all the small build up / blue dye out... Cleaned up well, then I ran about 2 gallons of distilled water through the system with about 10minute cycles between each fill/drain.

Once I was done with all that I filled it up with Mayhems X1 UV Clean it took 1 full bottle (Largest one forgot the size and isn't listed on it oddly) and then roughly half another bottle of X1. I then add 4 drops of Deep blue for a little color in the lines, followed by X1 UV Blue Concentrate.

The UV was crazy bright but it seriously only lasted roughly 36 hours or so, it now has ZERO UV effect, what did I mix or do wrong?


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I can totally confirm that XT-1 if doesn't exceed very high temp it holds biocide well. My nephew using 1 and his temps never gets beyond 29-32C and after 13 months no issue and he's been doing that for while now, but he also have 4 x480 rads that cooling the liquid very well, he also mixes about 20% with DI


Hmm, buy 4 x480 rads or buy a better coolant... now that's a hard decision. /sarcasm


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Hmm, buy 4 x480 rads or buy a better coolant... now that's a hard decision. /sarcasm

















....ya hard decision I didn't make a whole lot sense
















Yes, you should get yourself more radiators, even if that's not an option, ether in yours or anyone else's case









Micks comment that biocide breaks down much faster with higher temps basically I confirmed, so hopefully he's working on XT-1 that have better biocide properties and resist that premature breakdown


----------



## DarthBaggins

looking at his build he has ample rad space so temps shouldn't be an issue at all


----------



## s74r1

32℃ max coolant temp because of poor coolant biocide is just a NOPE, sorry (even if I could pull off those temps with 2x 280's & 1x 120 in a room that gets nearly that hot while trying to maintain relative silence). My sweet spot for noise to temp ratio under high loads has always been around 36℃-42℃ (higher end of that range depending on hardware, like my old bios modded TITANX running 300w+).

My beef here is nowhere on the product page or bottle does it say a temp limit for advertised biocide/corrosion protection, and I find it a little insulting that people are suggesting ridiculous amounts of radiators instead. perhaps I'm taking it too personal and out of context. The months of delays on the fixed version isn't helping either especially after reading Mayhems "ethics" on 1st post seeing as how they've been shipping 3000+ liters a month of it to OEMs already.

Apologies if i took any posts out of context, I just feel there is an issue with a product here that hasn't been addressed in a timely manner (I tried some tickets and such w/ mayhems awhile back). There needs to at least be a warning somewhere so people don't run into this issue and wonder why their parts are mysteriously growing green junk all over it. Anyways, I need to get back to scrubbing this junk out of everything...

Edit: fixed typo: 2x 280 not 2x 240


----------



## 414347

When I responded to your post (Get 4 rads) It was out of sarcasm as well I don't think you or anyone else have to get more rad space, not everyone can afford that in the first place but also not everyone has the appropriate space for it.

I'm with you on the fact that there is no warning anywhere about biocide braking down at any point of exceeding coolants temp, that's why I confirmed saying hopefully Mayhems will come up with not only biocide itself that can withstand that premature breakdown but also make premixed coolants that will have that leverage of biocide lasting longer under higher temperatures.

I have been using Biocide Extreme for over 2 years with DI and it works honestly superb my water never been that clear but first..I change my water every 3-6 months and my temps never get beyond 28-30C under heavy load with 3 Titan Black 1200MHz, 4960X-4.4GHz , VRMs and M/B yes I have different setup but that's just confirmation of biocide been fine as long as you staying with low temps which is not the case here that's why I'm hoping the new X1 will have some improvements as far is that goes so anyone with smaller systems don't have to deal with algae issues if their systems produce higher temperatures.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> 32℃ max coolant temp because of poor coolant biocide is just a NOPE, sorry (even if I could pull off those temps with 2x 240's & 1x 120 in a room that gets nearly that hot while trying to maintain relative silence). My sweet spot for noise to temp ratio under high loads has always been around 36℃-42℃ (higher end of that range depending on hardware, like my old bios modded TITANX running 300w+).


Dude, running silent with that sort of loop only works when your room is actually room temp (72F/22C). Hell, if you watched the Mod Zoo podcast, you'd know that there's color breakdown at those sort of temps with the Pastel fluids. So why would the biocide be any different? The fluid's just not meant to be run that hot, although it's being worked on.


----------



## InfoSeeker

I have been a Mayhem fanboy for a while... bought all the hype.
I am assembling my next system, blitz-1'd all the rads and have 3 liters of X1 ready to fill the loop.

But that isn't going to happen now.
This 35C kills the biocide issue is too much exposure. And it is not digital, if it is noticeable at 35C, then it is present at 30C.
Waiting for Mayhems to deliver their new formulation is not an option... I am now familiar with their modus operandi.
Deception by omission is still deception.

Now what do I do with the 3 liters of X1 I have in standby?
Thought about listing on eBay, but I cannot bring myself to dupe some unsuspecting schlub.
Guess I will pour down the drain... hopefully the biodegradable claim is not also false.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I have been a Mayhem fanboy for a while... bought all the hype.
> I am assembling my next system, blitz-1'd all the rads and have 3 liters of X1 ready to fill the loop.
> 
> But that isn't going to happen now.
> This 35C kills the biocide issue is too much exposure. And it is not digital, if it is noticeable at 35C, then it is present at 30C.
> Waiting for Mayhems to deliver their new formulation is not an option... I am now familiar with their modus operandi.
> Deception by omission is still deception.
> 
> Now what do I do with the 3 liters of X1 I have in standby?
> Thought about listing on eBay, but I cannot bring myself to dupe some unsuspecting schlub.
> Guess I will pour down the drain... hopefully the biodegradable claim is not also false.


I wouldn't worry too much, it also depends on your flow speed, loop setup and components. I have seen many people running X1 deluded with Di or dies for over several months without single issue and their temps were way beyond 35C.

If fact this is my old smaller system single loop that I still have and the components were producing heck of the heat, my X1 which I used at that time would reach 38-39C doing decrypting and code compiling for long periods of time...non issue at all.




I know many people have their system dirty to begin with, they think their components are clean but you be surprise what is in your rad or block even being brand new. I have used Blitz part 2 few times already and I tell you, you can use vinegar or other homemade solution but don't come crying (not you but people in general) when you have issues

Basically I'm saying, don't waist perfectly good coolant, just use it but instead of changing within a year, change in 6 months, you should be fine


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> 32℃ max coolant temp because of poor coolant biocide is just a NOPE, sorry (even if I could pull off those temps with 2x 240's & 1x 120 in a room that gets nearly that hot while trying to maintain relative silence). My sweet spot for noise to temp ratio under high loads has always been around 36℃-42℃ (higher end of that range depending on hardware, like my old bios modded TITANX running 300w+).
> 
> 
> 
> Dude, running silent with that sort of loop only works when your room is actually room temp (72F/22C). Hell, if you watched the Mod Zoo podcast, you'd know that there's color breakdown at those sort of temps with the Pastel fluids. So why would the biocide be any different? The fluid's just not meant to be run that hot, although it's being worked on.
Click to expand...

I don't run colored fluids, always too much maintenance in my ~10yr or so history in watercooling, but from what I understand Mayhems does produce the most reliable colored coolants.

Running silent loop with aprox 300w GPU load and 100w CPU load (gaming) does indeed work, but room does get hot which is why I prefer winter where I can crack the window. Also note I don't go for max cooling, I don't mind my CPU at or below 80c core temps. same with GPU but those usually fare much better on temps in hot conditions (around 60c in a hot loop/hot ambient).

•My silence oriented optimized fan curves with 2x 280mm w/ 2x Noctua NF-A14 PWM on each:
29c water temp = 650rpm
39c water temp = 750rpm
42c water temp = 900rpm
above that, max speed 1200rpm but it usually holds steady between 39 and 41.
(Also in the loop is a recently added 120mm slim rad I haven't done much testing with yet other than noise/airflow but it won't do much in exhaust mode.)

•Side note on Noctua 120mm fans I compared (PWM):
Comparing the P12, F12, S12B, S12A listed below; the P12 and S12A seemed best at airflow vs noise at low rpm on a thin 16fpi radiator. P12 beats the F12 at airflow vs noise at low rpm due to more blades and it also slightly less rpm. Motor noise difference is presumably due to less max rpm on the P12 vs F12 (no 1300 variant). F12 wins at high RPM. S12A needed higher RPM than both to achieve equal airflow but had some somewhat equal but noise, mostly higher air turbulence. S12B Redux had the worst turbulence noise. All Noctua had worst noise in pull only condition.

NF-P12 = pressure optimized SSO1 bearing 1300rpm 9 blades. (No redux version, oddly enough.)
NF-F12 = pressure optimized SSO2 bearing 1500rpm 7 blades. (excluding IPPC variants)
NF-S12B Redux: Airflow optimized SSO1 bearing 1200rpm 7 steeply curved blades.
NF-S12A = Airflow optimized SSO2 bearing 1200rpm 7 steeply curved blades.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I have been a Mayhem fanboy for a while... bought all the hype.
> I am assembling my next system, blitz-1'd all the rads and have 3 liters of X1 ready to fill the loop.
> 
> But that isn't going to happen now.
> This 35C kills the biocide issue is too much exposure. And it is not digital, if it is noticeable at 35C, then it is present at 30C.
> Waiting for Mayhems to deliver their new formulation is not an option... I am now familiar with their modus operandi.
> Deception by omission is still deception.
> 
> Now what do I do with the 3 liters of X1 I have in standby?
> Thought about listing on eBay, but I cannot bring myself to dupe some unsuspecting schlub.
> Guess I will pour down the drain... hopefully the biodegradable claim is not also false.


I don't think X1 (or X1 based dyed/pastel variants) have been confirmed to suffer the same breakdown at roughly 36℃ and higher like the XT-1 but I don't know for sure. (Edit: probably the dyes or color particles at least, but unsure about the biocide)

For now I'm going with Koolance LIQ-702 (clear) as I hear it has high long-term reliability. Then maybe I'll try XT1 Plus, if/when it's released to the public.

Side note: EK-EKoolant's confuse the heck out of me, their pastel is mayhems, meanwhile their other non-pastel is an EG based dyed or non-dyed coolant. Don't trust it yet. Also oddly the older non-EVO was PG based.

Edit: Fixed typos (2x 280 not 2x 240, etc) and some other grammar


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> 32℃ max coolant temp because of poor coolant biocide is just a NOPE, sorry (even if I could pull off those temps with 2x 240's & 1x 120 in a room that gets nearly that hot while trying to maintain relative silence). My sweet spot for noise to temp ratio under high loads has always been around 36℃-42℃ (higher end of that range depending on hardware, like my old bios modded TITANX running 300w+).
> 
> My beef here is nowhere on the product page or bottle does it say a temp limit for advertised biocide/corrosion protection, and I find it a little insulting that people are suggesting ridiculous amounts of radiators instead. perhaps I'm taking it too personal and out of context. The months of delays on the fixed version isn't helping either especially after reading Mayhems "ethics" on 1st post seeing as how they've been shipping 3000+ liters a month of it to OEMs already.
> 
> Apologies if i took any posts out of context, I just feel there is an issue with a product here that hasn't been addressed in a timely manner (I tried some tickets and such w/ mayhems awhile back). There needs to at least be a warning somewhere so people don't run into this issue and wonder why their parts are mysteriously growing green junk all over it. Anyways, I need to get back to scrubbing this junk out of everything...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I have been a Mayhem fanboy for a while... bought all the hype.
> I am assembling my next system, blitz-1'd all the rads and have 3 liters of X1 ready to fill the loop.
> 
> But that isn't going to happen now.
> This 35C kills the biocide issue is too much exposure. And it is not digital, if it is noticeable at 35C, then it is present at 30C.
> Waiting for Mayhems to deliver their new formulation is not an option... I am now familiar with their modus operandi.
> Deception by omission is still deception.
> 
> Now what do I do with the 3 liters of X1 I have in standby?
> Thought about listing on eBay, but I cannot bring myself to dupe some unsuspecting schlub.
> Guess I will pour down the drain... hopefully the biodegradable claim is not also false.


I feel like some of you guys are getting XT1 and X1 confused. XT1 is a completely different formula than X1. XT1 is for below freezing temps, hence why it shouldn't be used in loops that run above ambient temps.

X1 is for "normal" cooling loops. I have ran X1 for years with fluid temps between 32-40c with no issues at all.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> 32℃ max coolant temp because of poor coolant biocide is just a NOPE, sorry (even if I could pull off those temps with 2x 240's & 1x 120 in a room that gets nearly that hot while trying to maintain relative silence). My sweet spot for noise to temp ratio under high loads has always been around 36℃-42℃ (higher end of that range depending on hardware, like my old bios modded TITANX running 300w+).
> 
> My beef here is nowhere on the product page or bottle does it say a temp limit for advertised biocide/corrosion protection, and I find it a little insulting that people are suggesting ridiculous amounts of radiators instead. perhaps I'm taking it too personal and out of context. The months of delays on the fixed version isn't helping either especially after reading Mayhems "ethics" on 1st post seeing as how they've been shipping 3000+ liters a month of it to OEMs already.
> 
> Apologies if i took any posts out of context, I just feel there is an issue with a product here that hasn't been addressed in a timely manner (I tried some tickets and such w/ mayhems awhile back). There needs to at least be a warning somewhere so people don't run into this issue and wonder why their parts are mysteriously growing green junk all over it. Anyways, I need to get back to scrubbing this junk out of everything...
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I have been a Mayhem fanboy for a while... bought all the hype.
> I am assembling my next system, blitz-1'd all the rads and have 3 liters of X1 ready to fill the loop.
> 
> But that isn't going to happen now.
> This 35C kills the biocide issue is too much exposure. And it is not digital, if it is noticeable at 35C, then it is present at 30C.
> Waiting for Mayhems to deliver their new formulation is not an option... I am now familiar with their modus operandi.
> Deception by omission is still deception.
> 
> Now what do I do with the 3 liters of X1 I have in standby?
> Thought about listing on eBay, but I cannot bring myself to dupe some unsuspecting schlub.
> Guess I will pour down the drain... hopefully the biodegradable claim is not also false.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I feel like some of you guys are getting XT1 and X1 confused. XT1 is a completely different formula than X1. XT1 is for below freezing temps, hence why it shouldn't be used in loops that run above ambient temps.
> 
> X1 is for "normal" cooling loops. I have ran X1 for years with fluid temps between 32-40c with no issues at all.
Click to expand...

XT-1's description is somewhat vague, one could easily mistake it as an equal formula but with product information focused on below zero mixing ratios. I had assumed it had equal specifications of X1 with the exception of the base consisting of Ethylene Glycol instead of vegetable extract or whatever they call it. (I think it's probably similar to vegetable glycerin, though that wouldn't make much sense from a viscosity standpoint since it's thicker than PG which is thicker than EG.)

Edit: if all else was equal, I prefer EG based coolants due to the lower viscosity and slightly higher thermal performance which is why I chose XT-1 assuming it was.

Edit2: Also, my intentions of my previous posts were moreso venting some frustration (probably the wrong place to do so) but more importantly to raise awareness that XT-1 (not to be confused with X1 or pastels) is not safe to use at around 35℃ and above, which is not documented anywhere I could find. Apologies if this caused any confusion between XT-1 and X1 (which I haven't used and am not focusing any of my posts on).


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> XT-1's description is somewhat vague, one could easily mistake it as an equal formula but with product information focused on below zero mixing ratios. I had assumed it had equal specifications of X1 with the exception of the base consisting of Ethylene Glycol instead of vegetable extract or whatever they call it. (I think it's probably similar to vegetable glycerin, though that wouldn't make much sense from a viscosity standpoint since it's thicker than PG which is thicker than EG.)
> 
> Edit: if all else was equal, I prefer EG based coolants due to the lower viscosity and slightly higher thermal performance which is why I chose XT-1 assuming it was.


I wish I could find the email I got from Mick a while back. He basically stated that in their testing, the best performing coolants in terms of heat transfer went in this order.

straight distilled> X1 > Aurora > XT1 > Pastel . Aurora is X1 based so they perform almost identically. The glycol in the XT1 slightly lowers the thermal transfer, but in exchange for better corrosion protection. Pastel's nano fluid typically runs 2-3c warmer than X1.

X1 still remains as the most user friendly coolant. It works in practically every loop since it is compatible with all tubing (like PETG), and it is more tolerant of high fluid temps. X1 also is more resistant to pH imbalances that cause some people's loops to change colors.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well I am glad to say the MicroCenter in Duluth GA has a small stock of Mayhems fluids (Ultra Pure H2O and X1 Clear)


----------



## Fyrwulf

That's one of three liters. Kinda disappointed the Aurora Gold booster did basically nothing. Color still needs balancing, I think, so I'll probably get another bottle of X1 concentrate and orange dye.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> 
> 
> That's one of three liters. Kinda disappointed the Aurora Gold booster did basically nothing. Color still needs balancing, I think, so I'll probably get another bottle of X1 concentrate and orange dye.


Aurora doesn't work too well with Pastel.


----------



## eucalyptus

Received a pretty nice package from Mayhems





















<3 <3









Problem now is, I have too many different colors LOL I believe the possibilities are endless in form of different combinations.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Wow Christmas starts early for some!


----------



## 414347

Wow!! you have some serious choices here, nice


----------



## greg1184

What Uv lighting are you guys using for the coolant? I'm debating getting UV clear or UV white. If you are using the cold cathodes where are you putting those God ugly blue boxes it has to be connected to?


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> What Uv lighting are you guys using for the coolant? I'm debating getting UV clear or UV white. If you are using the cold cathodes where are you putting those God ugly blue boxes it has to be connected to?


Darkside LED's are pretty good.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Darkside LED's are pretty good.


It's my only option in my opinion.

TCO


----------



## greg1184

Thanks folks.


----------



## atomicus

Does anyone know the difference between the UV CLEAR BLUE,, SKY BLUE and ICE BLUE? I've been trying to find a visual comparison but I can't. Also, is it OK to mix them? I have a CLEAR BLUE pre-mix which is OK, but I think it's a bit weak in terms of the UV effect (I am using Darkside UV LED's), but I'm also not crazy about the shade of blue, so I was thinking to get one of the other blues in a small 15ml bottles to pump up the UV effect and see if I can get a nicer blue. Anyone tried this?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Does anyone know the difference between the UV CLEAR BLUE,, SKY BLUE and ICE BLUE? I've been trying to find a visual comparison but I can't. Also, is it OK to mix them? I have a CLEAR BLUE pre-mix which is OK, but I think it's a bit weak in terms of the UV effect (I am using Darkside UV LED's), but I'm also not crazy about the shade of blue, so I was thinking to get one of the other blues in a small 15ml bottles to pump up the UV effect and see if I can get a nicer blue. Anyone tried this?


I don't know the difference, but I will figure it out soon.

I have all 19 dyes from Mayhems and will do a REAL guide through all of them. I agree with you, there are no real pictures or videos showing all of it, so I will do natural environment-friendly-ish un-edited pictures showing the real and pure color of every dye.

If people are going to buy Mayhems they deserve to know the color of the dye and not buy with a blind eye and get a surprise later and maybe something they didn't want.

Approximately 1-4 weeks. Haven't started yet and there is A LOT of work to get it done...


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I don't know the difference, but I will figure it out soon.
> 
> I have all 19 dyes from Mayhems and will do a REAL guide through all of them. I agree with you, there are no real pictures or videos showing all of it, so I will do natural environment-friendly-ish un-edited pictures showing the real and pure color of every dye.
> 
> If people are going to buy Mayhems they deserve to know the color of the dye and not buy with a blind eye and get a surprise later and maybe something they didn't want.
> 
> Approximately 1-4 weeks. Haven't started yet and there is A LOT of work to get it done...


Sounds excellent! I look forward to seeing the results. Seems like something Mayhems should have done themselves though lol! Do you think I'd have any issue mixing... i.e adding a different blue concentrate in to the pre-mix already in my loop? It would just be another blue variant, so I hardly think it would turn green or anything funky would it?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Sounds excellent! I look forward to seeing the results. Seems like something Mayhems should have done themselves though lol! Do you think I'd have any issue mixing... i.e adding a different blue concentrate in to the pre-mix already in my loop? It would just be another blue variant, so I hardly think it would turn green or anything funky would it?


It should not be any problems mixing









All their products are compatible to mix with each other, at least the dyes







Stay away from XT-1 lol









And you can also mix "non-stain" dyes and the other dyes, only thing that it will not ben "non-stain" anymore







And what that is, I have no clue lol hahah







Good luck


----------



## Solonowarion

Yeah I've always mixed their dyes. You can get some nice colors out of pastel and normal dyes. This color stayed in the loop for about 9 months.


----------



## atomicus

I am assuming the UV Clear ICE BLUE and SKY BLUE are totally clear, and only turn blue when exposed to UV light? They both say non-stain, but the pre-mix I have called X1 UV CLEAR BLUE does not say it's non-stain, but it is clear so I don't see how it could stain? Confusing lol!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Does anyone know the difference between the UV CLEAR BLUE,, SKY BLUE and ICE BLUE? I've been trying to find a visual comparison but I can't. Also, is it OK to mix them? I have a CLEAR BLUE pre-mix which is OK, but I think it's a bit weak in terms of the UV effect (I am using Darkside UV LED's), but I'm also not crazy about the shade of blue, so I was thinking to get one of the other blues in a small 15ml bottles to pump up the UV effect and see if I can get a nicer blue. Anyone tried this?


Here's where mick talked about them, only a couple pics though. Hope that helps.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Here's where mick talked about them, only a couple pics though. Hope that helps.


Thanks, interesting. However, I'm a bit confused by his comment... "Dev'ed formula over at Mayhems and does not fade under cheap UV leds lights and have a much wider spectrum for UV Lights."

Mine (X1 UV Clear Blue) has only been in the loop 24 hours and it's already faded by at least 50%!! Unless this one has different properties somehow.


----------



## Notrace13

Hi All,

I hope some of you guys and gals will indulge me with this question.

I want to make a grey /liquid metal effect coloured coolant. I have seen on Youttube a video by Mayhems where they mixed 11pts Green dye to 1pt Red dye to achieve grey and someone else mixed Mayhems purple and yellow dyes to also archive grey and by adding the silver aurora booster, managed to get the liquid metal effect.

I wanted to know if anyone has tried either of these options? and if so do you have any pics,

Interestingly both variations used Mayhems pastel White as the suspension liquid rather than distilled water.

This may be a question for the Mayhems peeps on this thread, what is the likelyhood that I would be able to obtain a UV grey colour if I were to mix the Mayhems X1 UV purple and yellow coolants together or would i need to also include the Pastel UV white as the carrier liquid?

As before if anyone has tried either of these options? would you be good enough to replay and or post any pics of your loops please,

Thanks again for your time and eyeballs.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Notrace13*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I hope some of you guys and gals will indulge me with this question.
> 
> I want to make a grey /liquid metal effect coloured coolant. I have seen on Youttube a video by Mayhems where they mixed 11pts Green dye to 1pt Red dye to achieve grey and someone else mixed Mayhems purple and yellow dyes to also archive grey and by adding the silver aurora booster, managed to get the liquid metal effect.
> 
> I wanted to know if anyone has tried either of these options? and if so do you have any pics,
> 
> Interestingly both variations used Mayhems pastel White as the suspension liquid rather than distilled water.
> 
> This may be a question for the Mayhems peeps on this thread, what is the likelyhood that I would be able to obtain a UV grey colour if I were to mix the Mayhems X1 UV purple and yellow coolants together or would i need to also include the Pastel UV white as the carrier liquid?
> 
> As before if anyone has tried either of these options? would you be good enough to replay and or post any pics of your loops please,
> 
> Thanks again for your time and eyeballs.


@Gabrielzm Has made grey already.

Here is the Log

TCO


----------



## TGBM

I haven't tried to myself but I know @Jameswalt1 did a grey for his Parvum Warfare build here.


----------



## Fyrwulf

I'm not happy with how my coolant came out. It's my fault, but next time I'm doing it differently.


----------



## Notrace13

Thanks to TheCautiousOne and TGBM for replying and for the links, much appreciated









My concern is as someone stated on the Parvum build, the Aurora coolant is great for show builds and even on the Mayhems site it says that Aurora is more for short term builds and Events, I would like not to have to change the coolant out ever few months..?

Any takers on the UV portion of my question?


----------



## TGBM

Erm never really touched UV before but I have seen people dropping in a few UV dye drops into other coolant and it gives it a UV effect. Never seen how it looks when combined with the Auora 2 coolant.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Notrace13*
> 
> Thanks to TheCautiousOne and TGBM for replying and for the links, much appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My concern is as someone stated on the Parvum build, the Aurora coolant is great for show builds and even on the Mayhems site it says that Aurora is more for short term builds and Events, I would like not to have to change the coolant out ever few months..?
> 
> Any takers on the UV portion of my question?


I haven't tried UV with pastel and aurora, but I'm using the uv green x1 with aurora. I found that even though the coolant is UV, you have to add more UV dye to get a really good glow so I'm guessing the same would be true for pastel, but would probably require more dye.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I haven't tried UV with pastel and aurora, but I'm using the uv green x1 with aurora. I found that even though the coolant is UV, you have to add more UV dye to get a really good glow so I'm guessing the same would be true for pastel, but would probably require more dye.


Are you able to post some pictures of the aurora with UV in I'm really curious to see what it looks like and you would defiantly need to experiment with the dyes to find a sweet spot for the mixture of all three.


----------



## JasonMorris

Hi,

Mayhems Pastel - Ice White Coolant and Mayhems Pastel - Blue Berry Concentrate mix

After a year my Aquacomputer Aqualis glass reservoir with nano coating is stained quite badly by the Mayhems fluid it has been holding. All the tubing and fittings are fine.Tried fairy liquid and hot water but didn't remove it.
Any ideas to make it sparkly again without going down the blitz kit route? Should I not have mixed the two products together perhaps as I'm hoping to refill with the same as I love the colour?

Thanks


----------



## Deedaz

Here's a quick vid of it, pics don't really capture it well and the effect is not as strong as regular aurora.


----------



## TGBM

That looks really cool! How UV is it when the lights are on?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> That looks really cool! How UV is it when the lights are on?


There's 2 uv cathodes inside the res that make it glow great. I only wanted the res to glow though so theres a lot of white lighting.

heres a shot of the res without the white lights


----------



## TGBM

Do you wear a hazmat suit when near it? Love how strong the colour is!


----------



## Fyrwulf

I've always wondered, is it possible to mix UV dyes to get a different color?


----------



## kush621

I've been mixing Clear UV Blue and UV Pink dye and one just over powers the other it seems. If i add blue to an already pinkish mix it just makes it a bit more blue, and then vice versa with the pink. Never got a purple as one would think you would.


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> I've always wondered, is it possible to mix UV dyes to get a different color?


Not from my knowledge but you can add UV dye to any coolant colour and make that colour UV sensitive.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGBM*
> 
> Not from my knowledge but you can add UV dye to any coolant colour and make that colour UV sensitive.


As in, the UV glow will be in the primary color of the coolant?


----------



## Notrace13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> I've always wondered, is it possible to mix UV dyes to get a different color?


Well I plan to find out. Ordered some Mayhems X1 UV purple & UV Yellow coolant to see if I can create UV grey. I will try and remember to photo document my finding and let you all know.

Thanks for all those who have replied to my questions


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> As in, the UV glow will be in the primary color of the coolant?


I wouldn't know from testing but most UV dyes are a set colour but curious to see if you can mix them!


----------



## 7he5tig

Hello friends!

Just recently completed my first custom loop. Went with pastel blue, or "smurf juice", as I like to call it.



Album and spec list: http://imgur.com/gallery/tGKsc


----------



## DarthBaggins

Looks good


----------



## TGBM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7he5tig*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello friends!
> 
> Just recently completed my first custom loop. Went with pastel blue, or "smurf juice", as I like to call it.
> 
> 
> 
> Album and spec list: http://imgur.com/gallery/tGKsc


Love how clean the build looks really good job man!


----------



## adriankiller

Mayhems pastel white + mayhems tube




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Scottland

Quick question on Aurora booster - may have already been covered but it's a large thread!

What's the longevity, and what happens afterwards? Or in other words, would it be suitable for upto 6 months and if not what would happen if I left it in the system beyond it's lifespan?

Thanks


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottland*
> 
> Quick question on Aurora booster - may have already been covered but it's a large thread!
> 
> What's the longevity, and what happens afterwards? Or in other words, would it be suitable for upto 6 months and if not what would happen if I left it in the system beyond it's lifespan?
> 
> Thanks


longevity will depend on your loop and a few other things like pump speed and how many spots there are for the particles to settle. I usually got around 2 months, up to 4, before I saw significant dropout so the effect can barely be seen.

I've never noticed any increase in temps from the settled particles so id think it shouldn't be a huge deal to leave it in after it's faded. It MIGHT make it harder to clean the particles out when you do try to clean it though, and it's already a huge pain to get rid of entirely.

Edit: I should note that @TheCautiousOne had an Aurora loop go 10 months, still suspended. I'm trying to work on ways to prolong the effect as well


----------



## Scottland

Thanks for that, I don't want a load of aurora in there so hopefully build up won't be an issue. I'm going to put a few drops in my existing loop and see how it goes before I drain and refill in a couple of months for new hardware.


----------



## Ugooo

Hi guys!

After some kind of long time reading the whole thread here I'm finally joining the club with some lovely Green Mayhems coolant! :inlove:


Full Shot by Ugooo Mods


Close-Up 1 by Ugooo Mods

I'm reeeeealllyyyyy happy with it







(it's been running for 2 months now and the coolant's colour didn't change so far ^.^)

The whole build-log can be found just there: http://www.overclock.net/t/1543956/worklog-mod-project-o1-the-r4/0_30

Cheers!

Ugo


----------



## emsj86

Looks good. I know you read a Lot about color change here. But the vast majority don't have color change. Not to say it doesn't happen it's just you hear more when it does than when it doesn't


----------



## Ugooo

thanks!

Regarding colour change: "haha"







I know, but I'd better be informed rather than fall in disappointment later on







I took all imaginable preventive step not to have any change so, we'll see







(+ I'm fully aware that water cooling requires some maintenance ^.^)

Have a nice day


----------



## meson1

It's generally the warmer colours, reds, yellows and oranges that suffered from the colour changes. Mayhems have changed their formulations to mitigate the issues somewhat.

Those with greens and blues ought to be ok.


----------



## Ugooo

didn't know that! ^.^


----------



## xOperator

So, just got my Blitz kit in.
I read that some manuals say that Part 1 is to be left in the Rads for 2 hours, but the manual i have that came included says 6 hours.

Is 2-6 hours okay to use on new Radiators?


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xOperator*
> 
> So, just got my Blitz kit in.
> I read that some manuals say that Part 1 is to be left in the Rads for 2 hours, but the manual i have that came included says 6 hours.
> 
> Is 2-6 hours okay to use on new Radiators?


If i recall correctly from the Mayhems Blitz tutorials on Youtube, I'm sure they make a point of emphasising that it's the instructions in the manual that comes with your Blitz kit is the one you should follow.

I think they say that because if they change formulations between different versions of the kits, then they will also change the instructions that are packaged in the kits to suit. And you don't want to be using the wrong instructions with the wrong kit.


----------



## xOperator

Cool, thats what I was thinking, wanted to make sure.


----------



## atomicus

I contacted Mayhems about that when I got my Blitz kit and they told me to just follow the instructions that come with it ignore everything I read online lol!

On a separate note, has anyone used the Pastel UV White? Does it stay pure white under UV lighting? I can't seem to find any pictures or examples of it in action. They have a few pics on their website, but it doesn't seem as though that's under UV, unless they've used some kind of UV filter on the camera to block out the purple hue.


----------



## kush621

it's light blue under UV light by itself. I used it as a base in my build, then added dye.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> it's light blue under UV light by itself. I used it as a base in my build, then added dye.


Ah OK, that's a bit annoying then... they should say that on their site! Calling something white when it's actually blue... daft!


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Ah OK, that's a bit annoying then... they should say that on their site! Calling something white when it's actually blue... daft!


I am just waiting for snow here in Sweden so I can get out and take amazing pictures of all the dyes







Then Mayhems will have something to publish on their website


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I am just waiting for snow here in Sweden so I can get out and take amazing pictures of all the dyes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then Mayhems will have something to publish on their website


Excellent, look forward to seeing that!


----------



## SteezyTN

December 3rd will be two months of Pastel red in my loop. Appears to have no issues. Today I topped the res off with a brand new bottle.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> December 3rd will be two months of Pastel red in my loop. Appears to have no issues. Today I topped the res off with a brand new bottle.




Very nice, clean look and the colors you picked are


----------



## maybach123

@mayhems how long does the x1 clear concentrate last? I bought it almost a year ago and have not used it yet.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kush621*
> 
> it's light blue under UV light by itself. I used it as a base in my build, then added dye.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah OK, that's a bit annoying then... they should say that on their site! Calling something white when it's actually blue... daft!
Click to expand...

There is a picture on the site showing the UV effect - 

Also if you click on the Extras tab - Colour : White / UV Blue telling you the colour of the Dye under UV light.

@maybach123 Normaly if @ 25c in a dark place 2 to 3 years if not open.


----------



## Tomiger

I have a question regarding Blitz Part 2.

If I understand correctly, this part should be done with a fully connected/running loop. I've been working on a new build for a while now and am getting closer to putting everything together. Since this is a new build, and will be somewhat complicated as far as loop-design goes, I am unsure how easy it will be to drain and refill the loop.

I believe Part 2 calls for a couple drain/fills, so I was hoping to just set up my components outside of my case and proceed from there. But since I am be using rigid tubing, I was planning on just connecting everything with soft tubing for this process, since the way in which I need to bend and route my rigid tubing will not work well outside the case.

For the record, I plan on using pastel and all of my components are new/never been used (and I will be doing Part 1 on my radiators before hand).

My question is, will it be more beneficial to perform Part 2 with the same tubing that will ultimately be used in my build and put up with the potential headache of draining/filling a cumbersome loop? Or does Part 2 not drastically affect (in a positive way) brand new tubing enough to matter, allowing me to just put all my components together outside the case with soft tubing?

Thanks and sorry if this has been covered before!


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> I have a question regarding Blitz Part 2.
> 
> If I understand correctly, this part should be done with a fully connected/running loop. I've been working on a new build for a while now and am getting closer to putting everything together. Since this is a new build, and will be somewhat complicated as far as loop-design goes, I am unsure how easy it will be to drain and refill the loop.
> 
> I believe Part 2 calls for a couple drain/fills, so I was hoping to just set up my components outside of my case and proceed from there. But since I am be using rigid tubing, I was planning on just connecting everything with soft tubing for this process, since the way in which I need to bend and route my rigid tubing will not work well outside the case.
> 
> For the record, I plan on using pastel and all of my components are new/never been used (and I will be doing Part 1 on my radiators before hand).
> 
> My question is, will it be more beneficial to perform Part 2 with the same tubing that will ultimately be used in my build and put up with the potential headache of draining/filling a cumbersome loop? Or does Part 2 not drastically affect (in a positive way) brand new tubing enough to matter, allowing me to just put all my components together outside the case with soft tubing?
> 
> Thanks and sorry if this has been covered before!


My experience with Part 2 is that you are going to need at least 3 to 4 drain and fills to get all the part 2 out.

In your situation it sounds like you have a good plan to do it outside the case with soft tubing.

Just make sure the hard tubing is nice and clean when you go together and you should be fine.


----------



## 414347

That's where the part 2 of Blitz shines, its absolutely amazing cleaner and acid neutralizer.
I have been cleaning my whole system annually with Blitz #2 for the past 2.5 years so I don't have to take any thing apart.

Imagine me taking this apart for cleaning:

Dual loop, 3x GPU's, CPU, M/B VRMs and chip with separate blocks, 4x D5 pumps, 2x High speed AQ flow meters, 4x 480 Nemesis radiators, 6x HDD and all hard tubing.

Put your system all together and then run Blitz for several hours with pump(s) on max speed to ensure that the flow will clean whatever needs to be clean, make sure to flash it several times after all (7-8 times, 10-15min each time at least)

When you are on hard tubing, you will never have to worry about plasticizer, so there will be no reason for you to dismantle any part of your system really, unless you upgrading









Do this annually and your system will be as healthy is can be for many years to come.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Reminds me I need to pick up a BLitz kit from my work since we finally got them in at the Duluth, GA Microcenter (along w/ Pure H2O and X1 clear & UV Blue)


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> That's where the part 2 of Blitz shines, its absolutely amazing cleaner and acid neutralizer.
> I have been cleaning my whole system annually with Blitz #2 for the past 2.5 years so I don't have to take any thing apart....


I don't doubt its efficacy, but is it really necessary to use Blitz 2 annually? It's a very powerful cleaner, so what exactly is needing that thorough a clean? I can see it if you have Aurora in there perhaps, and are changing to something else, but even then, 7-8 flushes with distilled alone is going to clean that out pretty well.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Hey, Darth, I know you have to have met me.... I'm sort of hard to forget. I have a disease like Parkinsons that causes me to shake and spasm and it makes it hard for me to talk. I was in there a few weeks back and bought two MSI Z170 M7s and two I7s, ram, 1TB ssds. You have to remember me.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

I've got to drain my loop to add a different top to my res. Current config is straight in from the top with no down pipe which works ok unless you want to overclock and stress test then the 100 ml res get turbulent and the pump just sucks the system full of bubbles. Ughh, why I didn't think about this when I was assembling........ It would be a couple more years before maintenance and breakdown. I now have EK-Ekoolant EVO clear and pure water which I wanted to run first just in case. I know the EK coolant is pretty much the same as antifreeze/coolant you would use in your car.. It smells the same, feels the same and tastes the same..... yeah I know, don't smoke with antifreeze on your fingers. My dilemma is how much cleaning do I have to do since this time I'm going with Mayhems pastel blood red. Well I'm going with the white pastel base and dying it until it looks the deep red that I want. Recon I have to completely clean my system to get all the EK antifreeze out before the Mayhems? Should I just the the Mayhems soap cleaning or recon I should go ahead and break it all down and acid the reservoirs then do the mayhems soap cleaning and flushing to get the PH perfect then drain and start with the Mayhems White pastel base??? I can tell you the EK antifreeze/coolant in there now is NOT ph balanced. I'm including a pic of my drain tube which is soft tubing which is turning a weird color and it's EK own tubing. I bought the EK 360 Performance kit but only used the res/pump/radiator out of it. Hard pipe PETG everything except the drain tube where I used a short piece of soft tubing with a drain **** on the end.

I just made a video so you guys can see what I'm thinking...... maybe. The 240 is a Black Ice Nemesis by Hardware Labs. All Fans are white EK Vardars pump is an EK-DDC 3.2 PWM Elite Edition and is pretty much silent until you stress test the system than everything gets loud. Thank you for your input? Any suggestions are appreciated? What about the Monsoon res?? Worth the trouble or no? Blood red or stay clear? I tell myself the red will look better but the clear surely has it's advantages. My son has also suggested going with glass tubing and I explained to him how many fitting I'd have to buy to get all straight runs and he said he'd buy them if that was what I wanted. I think I might just get one stick for the long straight runs and just add one 90 to go back to PETG. If it was yours what would your do. I do need to get the one Vardar that is under the pump to it's own header on the motherboard so I can have it running a about 15% all the time. A fair amount of heat build up on the pump even at low volume which I presume is why the drain tube is dying and polluting the whole system. What do ya think? Red or Clear, how much cleaning if I go with red? Stick with EK res or go through the trouble to get the Monsoon in there? Glass or is it not worth the trouble? If it was yours what would you change?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtjDDbY2cKw&feature=youtu.be


----------



## DarthBaggins

I did notice in your video you didn't remove the protective adhesive cover from the EK emblem (no turbulence) in your res. Thinking that might be what could be causing an issue w/ the soft tubing and possibly reacting with other blocks. Now I don't think you dealt with me at MC in Duluth - normally my luck is I'm off/at lunch/ or just left for the day when local OCN and Southeast Gamers members stop by. I would say blitz the system w/ pt 2 and then thoroughly flush w/ some good distilled before swapping over to Pastel white (which the EK Pastel white is made by Mayhems







).


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

I dont remember there being plastic on it, but there might be. We'll see in a couple days. This is me on one of my better days. I stay in bed 80% of the time. Dam disease. Amazing how it takes losing your health to make you realize that it's the MOST important thing in your life. Without it nothing really matters. I think I remember you but if you'd helped me you'd surely remember me.. I'm either in a wheelchair or leaning heavily on a buggy to keep from face planting.

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0438_zpselgvcttr.jpg.html


----------



## DarthBaggins

here's where I noticed the film in your video (the EK Emblem is supposed to be a clear acrylic)


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Stupid EK and their stupid peel offs............

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/doh_zpsyzm61w7o.jpg.html


----------



## luukelbo

Switchen to mayhems pastel blue today
Loop has been going for about 3 hours.
On the res you can clearly see the airbubbles are they going away over time? With the clear coolant i didn't have any bubbles sticking to my res like this.

























Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6P met Tapatalk


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I don't doubt its efficacy, but is it really necessary to use Blitz 2 annually? It's a very powerful cleaner, so what exactly is needing that thorough a clean? I can see it if you have Aurora in there perhaps, and are changing to something else, but even then, 7-8 flushes with distilled alone is going to clean that out pretty well.


No one said you have to use it annually, but it will clean some of (not oxidation per-say) but particles from it that are sitting on micro channels of your blocks that distilled water alone wouldn't clean

Even if you run loop with distilled and biocide alone your water will leave stains and slime that again water alone will not clean.

And you right, Blitz #2 its strong solution, it's like shampoo on steroids, yet gentle and won't harm your O-rings or nickel plating, so doing it annually will reassure that your system is in tip top shape.

Well... no one said you have to add any fuel additives to you gas tank, but in reality, they do help and its only a option.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Nice.. Waterblock next?


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> No one said you have to use it annually, but it will clean some of (not oxidation per-say) but particles from it that are sitting on micro channels of your blocks that distilled water alone wouldn't clean
> 
> Even if you run loop with distilled and biocide alone your water will leave stains and slime that again water alone will not clean.
> 
> And you right, Blitz #2 its strong solution, it's like shampoo on steroids, yet gentle and won't harm your O-rings or nickel plating, so doing it annually will reassure that your system is in tip top shape.
> 
> Well... no one said you have to add any fuel additives to you gas tank, but in reality, they do help and its only a option.


I've already decided that if I ever have to break the seal on my loop for other than routine maintenance, it's gonna get cleaned and fresh coolant.. Might as well do it while your in there so it will reset the maint clock..


----------



## Mayhem

Update

testing completed. Long life high heat load Clear and Pastel® type coolants

Mayhems new XT1 Plus Coolant is a high heat load long life coolant utilizing a new formula of biocides and inhibitors and various other long life chemicals to create a coolant that can work up to 390c (under pressure) and last upwards of 5 years plus in a system when mixed at 10% ratio. Can be mixed up to 60% ratio and can go down to -85c for sub zero cooling. Making the perfect all rounder.

X1 plus can also last upwards of 3 years plus, up to 280c (under pressure) mix ratio 8 to 10%.

These new coolants are prefect for high heat system and AIO's.

"WIP" New high heat load long life Pastel® complete new formula with far less drop out and far better heat carrying capability 2nm SD - 16 to 18nm in size (core) / 20nm Outer with surfactant. Built from the ground up in Mayhems labs. Lots more interesting facts will be released on completion of PH checks and heat load checks (this takes time).



When more heat load is applied more heat is carried (this is a active product) and outer core size increases as the fluid become more active.



Micks mess around Pastel® has been tested up to 110c with no issues so far how ever long testing and higher heat loads and independent testing need to be carried out.

More info to come closer to release dates and as work is carried out. Aurora formula has also been worked on how ever not anywhere for release as of yet.


----------



## 414347

That is going to be a game changer for many users


----------



## DarthBaggins

Would definitely love not having to swap coolants out annually. This is huge compared to other manufacturers producing their coolants.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Would definitely love not having to swap coolants out annually. This is huge compared to other manufacturers producing their coolants.


Yap, It would make a huge difference


----------



## Leonko

can you guys specifie what yre you talking about? what product exactly? https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/x1-coolants/


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Update
> 
> testing completed. Long life high heat load Clear and Pastel® type coolants
> 
> *Mayhems new XT1 Plus Coolant is a high heat load long life coolant utilizing a new formula of biocides and inhibitors and various other long life chemicals to create a coolant that can work up to 390c (under pressure) and last upwards of 5 years* plus in a system when mixed at 10% ratio. Can be mixed up to 60% ratio and can go down to -85c for sub zero cooling. Making the perfect all rounder.
> 
> *X1 plus can also last upwards of 3 years plus,* up to 280c (under pressure) mix ratio 8 to 10%.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> These new coolants are prefect for high heat system and AIO's.
> 
> "WIP" New high heat load long life Pastel® complete new formula with far less drop out and far better heat carrying capability 2nm SD - 16 to 18nm in size (core) / 20nm Outer with surfactant. Built from the ground up in Mayhems labs. Lots more interesting facts will be released on completion of PH checks and heat load checks (this takes time).
> 
> 
> 
> When more heat load is applied more heat is carried (this is a active product) and outer core size increases as the fluid become more active.
> 
> 
> 
> Micks mess around Pastel® has been tested up to 110c with no issues so far how ever long testing and higher heat loads and independent testing need to be carried out.
> 
> More info to come closer to release dates and as work is carried out. Aurora formula has also been worked on how ever not anywhere for release as of yet.


When can we buy it?








When can we buy it?








When can we buy it?









Already have a long term experiment going on with one rig began September 2016 with Mayhems Extreme white pastel Blitz 1 and Blitz 2 and the Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O, was hoping for 18months.

Would love to start a new experiment with the new XT1 Plus and extend it out to 3years. Wooooooo.

Caution incoming pics!









http://s1266.photobucket.com/user/iBrucey/media/IMG_8280_zpszfxfdnrk.jpg.html
http://s1266.photobucket.com/user/iBrucey/media/IMG_8502_zpsgc9k0y7p.jpg.html
http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_8192_zpsqgsz9krm.jpg.html
http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_7694_zpszfzjggst.jpg.html


----------



## atomicus

Impressive... what's the catch? This will come in a variety of colours I presume?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Forgot wether XT-1 and EK ZMT were compatible. Thinking of using it if the new version will be able to used for 3yrs


----------



## Mayhem

XT1 Plus and all of the new coolants will not be compatible with older coolants due to the new formulations. We cannot guarantee any issues may crop up if you mix both.

@atomicus the catch is we need time to develop and we simply do not have much else these would be out a lot sooner. Colours will start off with popular colours then will be expanded as time goes on.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> XT1 Plus and all of the new coolants will not be compatible with older coolants due to the new formulations. We cannot guarantee any issues may crop up if you mix both.
> 
> @atomicus the catch is we need time to develop and we simply do not have much else these would be out a lot sooner. Colours will start off with popular colours then will be expanded as time goes on.


Will the new pastels be out by the end of this year? I am looking to redo my loop in a few weeks and wanted to know whether I should wait for the new pastels to drop or just stick to regular ones?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> XT1 Plus and all of the new coolants will not be compatible with older coolants due to the new formulations. We cannot guarantee any issues may crop up if you mix both.
> 
> @atomicus the catch is we need time to develop and we simply do not have much else these would be out a lot sooner. Colours will start off with popular colours then will be expanded as time goes on.


I was referring to EK's tubing not a coolant.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Forgot wether XT-1 and EK ZMT were compatible. Thinking of using it if the new version will be able to used for 3yrs


Quote:


> I was referring to EK's tubing not a coolant.

















I thought you were referring to coolant as well


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol no their coolant is called Evo - zmt is the flat black style


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ali13245*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> XT1 Plus and all of the new coolants will not be compatible with older coolants due to the new formulations. We cannot guarantee any issues may crop up if you mix both.
> 
> @atomicus the catch is we need time to develop and we simply do not have much else these would be out a lot sooner. Colours will start off with popular colours then will be expanded as time goes on.
> 
> 
> 
> Will the new pastels be out by the end of this year? I am looking to redo my loop in a few weeks and wanted to know whether I should wait for the new pastels to drop or just stick to regular ones?
Click to expand...

Pastel will take at least 4 to 6 months for testing then manufacturing. Your probs looking at 8 to 12 months before it fully run out to the public or in shops.


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pastel will take at least 4 to 6 months for testing then manufacturing. Your probs looking at 8 to 12 months before it fully run out to the public or in shops.


Thanks for clearing that up


----------



## Mayhem

Unbiased testing over at extreme rigs of Primochill and Mayhems tubing. Were very happy to see this sort of testing and glad to see web sites like these guys going that extra mile for you the users. http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/12/06/extreme-rigs-soft-tube-test-take-2/

Please hit them up and take a read. We are very happy with the out come.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Unbiased testing over at extreme rigs of Primochill and Mayhems tubing. Were very happy to see this sort of testing and glad to see web sites like these guys going that extra mile for you the users. http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/12/06/extreme-rigs-soft-tube-test-take-2/
> 
> Please hit them up and take a read. We are very happy with the out come.


This is good news, as usual, you are on track with many good things.








Rep+









Meanwhile, I am so looking forward to fitting my five Mayhems Havoc rads into my build, when life doesn't get in my damn way, lol.
They are beautiful rads, well-made, and very clean. And a damn good price!

Just a shameless plug for the best value rads I have ever seen, available from Mayhems.


----------



## aaronpiatt

Mayhems Pastel White.


----------



## 414347




----------



## 0ldChicken

some of you may remember my idea to use QDC's to reverse my loop flow to kick up aurora particles that have settled (post) Well I did get everything installed and decided to try it out since I am starting to notice that there are less particles than when I initially filled it, about 2 months ago.

The difference isn't huge, but I didn't let it fall all the way out to nothing yet. Its definitely noticeable in real life, but also definitely not as good as new. We'll see how it goes in the future!


----------



## eucalyptus

@atomicus

Now is what we have been waiting for, completed









Who wants a drink? One Ocean blue please!

Here are just a few pictures, please check my Imgure link to see all the pictures (too many to post in the thread)









http://imgur.com/a/BTgeB

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2923126/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2923127/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2923128/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2923129/


----------



## Barefooter

Great dye pics @eucalyptus

Thanks for sharing


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> @atomicus
> 
> Now is what we have been waiting for, completed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who wants a drink? One Ocean blue please!
> 
> Here are just a few pictures, please check my Imgure link to see all the pictures (too many to post in the thread)


NICE! Funny, I just clicked on the thread wondering if you'd had a chance to do this yet, and there we go! Excellent job.









Did you shine a UV light on these? The UV clear blue is definitely brighter when first added to a loop, but it fades off. Still brighter than what your pic shows though. Probably hard to truly capture the UV effect outside of a system though.

Here is what it looked like in mine just after filling... but it's subsequently dropped a good third in brightness I'd say.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Great dye pics @eucalyptus
> 
> Thanks for sharing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> NICE! Funny, I just clicked on the thread wondering if you'd had a chance to do this yet, and there we go! Excellent job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you shine a UV light on these? The UV clear blue is definitely brighter when first added to a loop, but it fades off. Still brighter than what your pic shows though. Probably hard to truly capture the UV effect outside of a system though.
> 
> Here is what it looked like in mine just after filling... but it's subsequently dropped a good third in brightness I'd say.


Thank you so much my friends!







Cheers from the North!























Your PC loos AWESOME atomicus







Really awesome! I believe blue and UV works just fine together. But I really dislike the purple uv light if you are going green for example, or any other color... That's why I never use it.

I should probably have mentioned that, I have NO UV light. Tried my little flashlight, but didn't give anything. Although, I have growing lights from Ebay coming in soon, Hydroponic lights. That's sort of UV, or it is...200 LED lights with mixed blue and red, I will try that on the UV dyes







Snow is melting today, but maybe around New Years eve







Yeah, I am going to start row some stuff. Not under the floorplanks in the basement as you could imagine







I am going to start with Bonsai trees and stuff, found some amazing unreal stuff on Ebay, for example, blue strawberries LOL.

Also, since it's outside, the light is changing every second. One second the sun have one little flare through the clouds, and then it's dark...

And especielly!!! The Snow, wow, the snow makes everything glow.

For example, the UV green looks weird imo. Nothing compared to the same dye as I use in my tristellar.

Here is a comparsion.

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2923710/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2923711/


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Your PC loos AWESOME atomicus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really awesome! I believe blue and UV works just fine together. But I really dislike the purple uv light if you are going green for example, or any other color... That's why I never use it.
> 
> I should probably have mentioned that, I have NO UV light. Tried my little flashlight, but didn't give anything. Although, I have growing lights from Ebay coming in soon, Hydroponic lights. That's sort of UV, or it is...200 LED lights with mixed blue and red, I will try that on the UV dyes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Snow is melting today, but maybe around New Years eve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I am going to start row some stuff. Not under the floorplanks in the basement as you could imagine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to start with Bonsai trees and stuff, found some amazing unreal stuff on Ebay, for example, blue strawberries LOL.
> 
> Also, since it's outside, the light is changing every second. One second the sun have one little flare through the clouds, and then it's dark...
> 
> And especielly!!! The Snow, wow, the snow makes everything glow.


Thanks!









I wonder how the snow actually affects things here. This is getting really scientific, but I wonder how the snow absorbs and reflects the UV light from the sun and if that does anything to the coolant and its appearance? I am no physicist, but could be something going on here.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder how the snow actually affects things here. This is getting really scientific, but I wonder how the snow absorbs and reflects the UV light from the sun and if that does anything to the coolant and its appearance? I am no physicist, but could be something going on here.


I agree with you on all points! It's weird indeed.

I can tell you that this was not done in direct sunlight. Sun goes up in East and I was at the time behind a big bush, and it was a gray sky, very cloudy.

Telling from the pictures the snow have some sort of impact with UV / light effect... You can clearly tell from the UV green/laser/yellow dyes, they really glow for no reason. If you look closer to uv green and laser green you can see the snow really shine like radiation









So my idea of pure natural photos might again not be 110% true. But gives you a hint at least of what EVERY color looks like









Still think it's better than a photostudio with white background and white cold light. Snow is so much cooler









I will definitely look into it more later, also going to make a small photoshoot when I get better UV light


----------



## AllGamer

Hey guys, so I've got a whole bunch of Mayhems Red Blood X1, Clear X1,
but my theme was actually Red and White

so, Clear X1 is not exactly what I want,
is there some sort of non-particle White coolant I can use from the Mayhem line up?

I'm using PETG tubes, so it needs to be safe for PETG as well, that's why I went with X1 series.


----------



## wizardbro

Anyone had experience with white pastel staining acrylic blocks and reservoirs? I'm ordering some and really concerned about that.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardbro*
> 
> Anyone had experience with white pastel staining acrylic blocks and reservoirs? I'm ordering some and really concerned about that.


As I understand and have heard, it won't stain, but the tiny nano particles will get into any little crack or crevice they can find, which can be cleaned but that takes some time.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Hey guys, so I've got a whole bunch of Mayhems Red Blood X1, Clear X1,
> but my theme was actually Red and White
> 
> so, Clear X1 is not exactly what I want,
> is there some sort of non-particle White coolant I can use from the Mayhem line up?
> 
> I'm using PETG tubes, so it needs to be safe for PETG as well, that's why I went with X1 series.




And I though I had good inventory


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @maybach123 Normaly if @ 25c in a dark place 2 to 3 years if not open.


Bought it exactly a year ago not in a dark place but the room has very rarely gone above 25 C Also never opened


----------



## emsj86

Pastel hasn't stained any of my parts or acrylic parts. You will be fine


----------



## Mayhem

*To stop confusion* :

Mayhems UV Clear Blue dye (invisible under normal light, Blue under UV light) is no longer produced because it had an issue with Cheap UV Leds. The wave length that UV Clear Blue reflected at, was to narrow for cheap UV Leds to pick up. We have replaced this product with two new variants : Mayhems Non Stain UV Sky Blue & Mayhems Non Stain UV Ice Blue (both invisible under normal light). Now Sky Blue is a light Blue under UV light and Ice Blue is Green / Blue under UV light. Both products have not only a wider UV spectrum and wave length they also last much longer and have a much wider PH range. These both can be mixed with other dyes and coolants such as Mayhems Blue dye to create a UV reactive colour.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *To stop confusion* :
> 
> Mayhems UV Clear Blue dye (invisible under normal light, Blue under UV light) is no longer produced because it had an issue with Cheap UV Leds. The wave length that UV Clear Blue reflected at, was to narrow for cheap UV Leds to pick up. We have replaced this product with two new variants : Mayhems Non Stain UV Sky Blue & Mayhems Non Stain UV Ice Blue (both invisible under normal light). Now Sky Blue is a light Blue under UV light and Ice Blue is Green / Blue under UV light. Both products have not only a wider UV spectrum and wave length they also last much longer and have a much wider PH range. These both can be mixed with other dyes and coolants such as Mayhems Blue dye to create a UV reactive colour.


Well I was very impressed with the effect of UV Clear Blue with the Darkside UV strips... BUT it did fade off pretty quickly. So if you've improved that great, although I have seen the Sky Blue and Ice Blue, and I don't like them as much as the Clear Blue... the Clear Blue really popped (initially) and had a bit of an 80's neon vibe about it (as you can see from my build pics), which I really liked, but the fact it didn't last long was a bummer.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems UV Clear Blue dye (invisible under normal light, Blue under UV light) is no longer produced because it had an issue with Cheap UV Leds. The wave length that UV Clear Blue reflected at, was to narrow for cheap UV Leds to pick up. We have replaced this product with two new variants : Mayhems Non Stain UV Sky Blue & Mayhems Non Stain UV Ice Blue (both invisible under normal light).


Can you advise what is the best clear coolant to mix the UV concentrate with? Would X1 Clear be the way to go?


----------



## AllGamer

Question:

*Is anyone here using Mayhems X1 with Nickel plating items (fittings / GPU blocks / CPU blocks) in your loop?*

Just checking to see if any of are getting flakes and oxidation issues as @wizardbro http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/18250_50#post_25715428

I want to confirm it's safe to use before I use it on my Nickel plated GPU block, certainly don't want it to get damaged by the Mayhems X1


----------



## Prophet4NO1

I was using it before putting Aurora in my loop. No issues.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> I was using it before putting Aurora in my loop. No issues.


yeah, but Aurora is another chemical mix

Aurora is closer to the Pastel type of coolant mix

and I already purchased a truck load of X1 in red / clear / and other colors, but just today I read what @wizardbro said, and I'm kind of not so sure If I want to risk my stuff with the X1

For example the XT is also supposed to be for another type, I forgot what it was, but it was for another combination of stuff.

X1 was safe for PETG, while all the other lines were for either Acrylic or for Soft tubes

I picked the X1 because I have PETG, but I didn't know about the flaking issue with Nickel plated items


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> yeah, but Aurora is another chemical mix
> 
> Aurora is closer to the Pastel type of coolant mix
> 
> and I already purchased a truck load of X1 in red / clear / and other colors, but just today I read what @wizardbro said, and I'm kind of not so sure If I want to risk my stuff with the X1
> 
> For example the XT is also supposed to be for another type, I forgot what it was, but it was for another combination of stuff.
> 
> X1 was safe for PETG, while all the other lines were for either Acrylic or for Soft tubes
> 
> I picked the X1 because I have PETG, but I didn't know about the flaking issue with Nickel plated items


I thought aurora was based on x1, pastel too iirc? if not then i misspoke in EK thread, cause I counted aurora as x1. They're both very similar on MSDS though.

Also, one loop having a block flake doesn't mean that there is a flaking issue with x1. There are many possibilities to consider, though I do understand your concern

edit: msds links http://support.mayhems.net/pages/mayhems-msds-sds-sheets

x1: http://mayhems.net/sds/x1/100ml/x1_clear_100_ml_sds.pdf
aurora: http://mayhems.net/sds/aurora/1ltr/Aurora_Silver_1_Ltr_SDS.pdf
pastel: http://mayhems.net/sds/pastel/1ltr/pastel_blue_1_ltr_sds.pdf


----------



## Prophet4NO1

I am not sure if Aurora uses X1. It would make sense since X1 is the main coolant from Mayhems. But I did not want to say for sure not knowing 100%. If it is, it's been in the loop over a year with no problems. It will be getting a tear down in the near future with some new tubing and changes to fittings. I will know more then.


----------



## AllGamer

Well I certainly hope you guys are right,

I'll give X1 a try for a few days, and hope for the best


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Question:
> 
> *Is anyone here using Mayhems X1 with Nickel plating items (fittings / GPU blocks / CPU blocks) in your loop?*
> 
> Just checking to see if any of are getting flakes and oxidation issues as @wizardbro http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/18250_50#post_25715428
> 
> I want to confirm it's safe to use before I use it on my Nickel plated GPU block, certainly don't want it to get damaged by the Mayhems X1


X1 is fine for nickel plated blocks. I've used it in several builds and had no problems. No way the fluid caused that to happen, I would guess something went wrong during manufacturing.


----------



## 0ldChicken

@Prophet4NO1a@AllGamer
here we go http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/6060_60#post_22157998
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Lol A while ago with the old Aurora you could filter it to make x1 how ever now it will pass through a coffee filter.
> Also its not longer X1 based its a new makeup that was built for Aurora not X1.


originally posted april 2014


----------



## AllGamer

Cool








just as I thought,
I only vaguely recalled some one mentioning something about it different from X1,
is good to know I was not hearing things


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> @Prophet4NO1a@AllGamer
> here we go http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/6060_60#post_22157998
> originally posted april 2014


Guess my hesitation was accurate. lol Good to know for sure.


----------



## Mayhem

Aurora is a totally new product but can be mixed with X1 as they are compatible. How ever the latest versions of Aurora have extra ingredients in them the aid in suspending the reflective bits which are now very small.

@AllGamer reference the nickle flaking if you could email mick over at [email protected] with the email you got from EK he will chase the issue up and speak to them reference them blaming Mayhems X1.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Aurora is a totally new product but can be mixed with X1 as they are compatible. How ever the latest versions of Aurora have extra ingredients in them the aid in suspending the reflective bits which are now very small.
> 
> @AllGamer reference the nickle flaking if you could email mick over at [email protected] with the email you got from EK he will chase the issue up and speak to them reference them blaming Mayhems X1.


it was @wizardbro that originally posted the issue in the EK thread. I dont think he's made over here yet.

http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/18240_60#post_25715428


----------



## Mayhem

If EK support are blaming Mayhems fluids then "all" of there own fluids are at fault !. That's all there pastel and all there clear fluids and every single Mayhems fluid which i personally doubt. The quality control that goes on here is akin to OCD and if you get it wrong here woe betide you. Mick is now aware and will be chasing this up with EK direct.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If EK support are blaming Mayhems fluids then "all" of there own fluids are at fault !. That's all there pastel and all there clear fluids and every single Mayhems fluid which i personally doubt. The quality control that goes on here is akin to OCD and if you get it wrong here woe betide you. Mick is now aware and will be chasing this up with EK direct.


that is kind of what I was thinking as well, but I'm not sure what EK fluids are just rebranded Mayhem's. Do they use Mayhem's for all of their fluids?


----------



## Mayhem

yes they do. Hence why they need informing about support tickets like this.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

They are probably told to say that any fluid that is not EK branded is the problem. And the support staff has no clue its all Mayhems with a new sticker. Thats just bad managment from support. Or just one guybthat has no clue and is pulling things from his butt.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @AllGamer reference the nickle flaking if you could email mick over at [email protected] with the email you got from EK he will chase the issue up and speak to them reference them blaming Mayhems X1.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> it was @wizardbro that originally posted the issue in the EK thread. I dont think he's made over here yet.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/993624/ek-club/18240_60#post_25715428


Yeah, it was @wizardbro that had the problem, since I also have many EK GPU / CPU blocks with Nickel plating, and a large stock of X1 fluids,
I was unsure if it was safe to use, but then @akira749 assured me it was safe to use the X1 from his personal experience.


----------



## toolmaker03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Yeah, it was @wizardbro that had the problem, since I also have many EK GPU / CPU blocks with Nickel plating, and a large stock of X1 fluids,
> I was unsure if it was safe to use, but then @akira749 assured me it was safe to use the X1 from his personal experience.


well this will be a good test ,as each of us have tried the X1, wizardbro, XalanderthegooberX, and my self with similar results, after about 6 months a goo builds in the system, and in my case started to plug up my CPU block.

with you putting the X1 in your system as well, I would like to here what the results of, having it in the system, if anything, after 6 months.

is that ok with you AlGamer?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> well this will be a good test ,as each of us have tried the X1, wizardbro, XalanderthegooberX, and my self with similar results, after about 6 months a goo builds in the system, and in my case started to plug up my CPU block.
> 
> with you putting the X1 in your system as well, I would like to here what the results of, having it in the system, if anything, after 6 months.
> 
> is that ok with you AlGamer?


of course, I'll be documenting that as part of my build.

since my system is pristine "clean" it'll be a good test.

The reminder of the CaseLab parts are supposed to arrive on Tuesday, hopefully I can get my new rig finally up and running by Xmas weekend.

I only flushed all my parts with Hot Tap Water

Before I put in the X1, I'll flush it a couple of times with plain Distilled water, drain it, and the fill the loops with the X1


----------



## shiokarai

Quick question:

Mayhems X1 Clear 100ml concentrate - mayhems says: "Makes 1 Ltrs when mixed with DI or Ultra Pure water (100 ml per 1 Ltr)"

Myhems XI Clear 250ml concentrate - mayhems says: "Makes 2 Ltrs when mixed with DI or Ultra Pure water (125 ml per 1 Ltr)"

So... which one is correct? it's 125ml or 100 ml per ltr? And does it mean "1ltr + 100/125ml" or it's "1 ltr WITH 100/125ml" (ie. 900 ml distilled water + 100 ml X1 or 1000ml distilled water + 100 ml X1)?

Also... I thought EK nickel plating flacking off was an issue long past gone? All my blocks are from EK AND nickel plated AND I use X1 (just under 1 month now) = I will have issues?

Is this:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-evo-clear-concentrate-100ml

Same as this:

https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/x1-coolants/x1-concentrate-100ml/x1-clear-100ml/

I read somewhere EK coolants contains Ethylene Glycol in them whereas Mayhems not..? (X1 vs EK-Evo Clear)


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If EK support are blaming Mayhems fluids then "all" of there own fluids are at fault !. That's all there pastel and all there clear fluids and every single Mayhems fluid which i personally doubt. The quality control that goes on here is akin to OCD and if you get it wrong here woe betide you. Mick is now aware and will be chasing this up with EK direct.


I, personally, don't think its mayhems or EK fault. We need more information about all things involved especially the water. But i will say this, I didn't flush my EK and Hardware Labs rads in my build. I used EK ecotherm or mayhems x1 and a very high quality distilled water. Checked ph during the whole process and have had no problem with electrolysis. I did though leave the white sticker on my EK anticyclone logo in my reservoir so a complete teardown is in order. Dohhhh. Just ordered mayhems part 2 and will flush and rinse and be very OCD or methodical in assuring that all the plasticizer is out of my system. Wizardbro seems very intelligent and I hope this works out for him. He has a lot invested in that build. I do think that EK as well as mayhems need to do SOME research for their customers on how to check for electrolysis while stress testing their system. That is when voltage leak is most likely to occur. There are only two places voltage can enter the loop and that's at the gpu and cpu block. The best think you can do to eliminate this is to completely cover the gpu and cpu with EK's ekotherm tim. But that is no assurance that there will not be a small spot where there is no protection. We need more research in isolating our systems for stray current and if EK is listening I'm sure there will be MANY that will pay for the products developed to minimize or eliminate this.


----------



## USMC Modder

Mayhems oil black is great!


----------



## Benjiw

Hello guys,

I have mayhems red dye in my coolant that's gone purple now, I'm guessing its to do with the rads not being clean enough?
Blocks are 980ti and cpu block which is nickle and obviously the rads.

I'm guessing that the blue from the copper and rads is what's turning my coolant from red to purple?


----------



## shiokarai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I have mayhems red dye in my coolant that's gone purple now, I'm guessing its to do with the rads not being clean enough?
> Blocks are 980ti and cpu block which is nickle and obviously the rads.
> 
> I'm guessing that the blue from the copper and rads is what's turning my coolant from red to purple?


Not necessarily, how are your water temps? afaik Mayhems dye can lose their colour if temp is too high, something like 50+ Celsius(?)


----------



## AllGamer

interesting... from red to purple









hmm... so I should keep my water below 50C to prevent color changes.
good to know


----------



## shiokarai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> interesting... from red to purple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hmm... so I should keep my water below 50C to prevent color changes.
> good to know


Well, to be precise this very well could be something entirely different in this particular case... but there was a debate not too long ago about mayhems dyes changing colours -> and high water temp was the main suspect of this (apart from the metal mixing in the loop etc.)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I don't agree with that. The PH sensitivity of certain colours, green, red, blue, orange need the PH of the loop to stay at a certain range, if this doesn't happen, then the colour will get darker, or lighter depended on how much the PH level of the Loop fluxuates.

This is my Opinion, not a fact, though I have dealt with a lot of colours from Mayhems.

TCO


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> well this will be a good test ,as each of us have tried the X1, wizardbro, XalanderthegooberX, and my self with similar results, after about 6 months a goo builds in the system, and in my case started to plug up my CPU block.
> 
> with you putting the X1 in your system as well, I would like to here what the results of, having it in the system, if anything, after 6 months.
> 
> is that ok with you AlGamer?


X1 does not gunk up systems. There is something else at play there. I have been running X1 for over 4 years in different color variations. Are all of these guys running soft tubing? Gunk buildup is almost always plasticizer build up from poor quality tubing, or fluid temps in excess of 45c.

This issue with X1 and nickel plating is also non existent. I have only seen nickel plating issues from one brand, EK. In those same 4 years I have been running X1, I have been running a nickle CPU block, multiple GPU blocks, and silver coated fittings without issue.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I have mayhems red dye in my coolant that's gone purple now, I'm guessing its to do with the rads not being clean enough?
> Blocks are 980ti and cpu block which is nickle and obviously the rads.
> 
> I'm guessing that the blue from the copper and rads is what's turning my coolant from red to purple?


Your pH is likely off. Pick up some pH test strips from a drug store and test your fluid. Red is very pH sensitive and canl turn purple or brown. Another known factor is excessive heat. What are your fluid (not component) temps?


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> X1 does not gunk up systems. There is something else at play there. I have been running X1 for over 4 years in different color variations. Are all of these guys running soft tubing? Gunk buildup is almost always plasticizer build up from poor quality tubing, or fluid temps in excess of 45c.
> 
> This issue with X1 and nickel plating is also non existent. I have only seen nickel plating issues from one brand, EK. In those same 4 years I have been running X1, I have been running a nickle CPU block, multiple GPU blocks, and silver coated fittings without issue.
> 
> Your pH is likely off. Pick up some pH test strips from a drug store and test your fluid. Red is very pH sensitive and canl turn purple or brown. Another known factor is excessive heat. What are your fluid (not component) temps?


I agree with the plasticizer issue that occurs with soft tubing... I see this a lot. It's why I NEVER use the stuff... just not worth the hassle. Hardline all the way as far as I'm concerned, and it also looks a million times better. Of course takes longer to put together if you're new to bending, but you'll spend that time cleaning out your system from all the gunk build-up you'll get with soft tubing... and that ain't much fun from what I hear!









Temps consistently in excess of 50? Surely you'd be seeing component temps getting pretty toasty if that were the case?


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I agree with the plasticizer issue that occurs with soft tubing... I see this a lot. It's why I NEVER use the stuff... just not worth the hassle. Hardline all the way as far as I'm concerned, and it also looks a million times better. Of course takes longer to put together if you're new to bending, but you'll spend that time cleaning out your system from all the gunk build-up you'll get with soft tubing... and that ain't much fun from what I hear!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps consistently in excess of 50? Surely you'd be seeing component temps getting pretty toasty if that were the case?


I would hope people would keep their fluid temps down. The max fluid temp of a D5 pump for example is 54c.

I have always had great results with my soft tubing. High fluid temps cause plastizer to leech from the tubing and that is where the issues occur. Mick @ mayhems actually did a soft tubing with high fluid temp test once before. All of them began to cloud and leech once subjected to 45c+ water temperatures. I personally keep my fluid in the 30s and adjust my fan speed and curves as needing. Too many people judge their cooling loop's performance by only component temps.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

How would I go about building a loop optimized for the Mayhems Aurora coolant.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> I would hope people would keep their fluid temps down. The max fluid temp of a D5 pump for example is 54c.
> 
> I have always had great results with my soft tubing. High fluid temps cause plastizer to leech from the tubing and that is where the issues occur. Mick @ mayhems actually did a soft tubing with high fluid temp test once before. All of them began to cloud and leech once subjected to 45c+ water temperatures. I personally keep my fluid in the 30s and adjust my fan speed and curves as needing. Too many people judge their cooling loop's performance by only component temps.


So you think someone could have fluid temps consistently above 50c, yet component temps all much lower than that? I've often used temp sensors, but always seen a fairly close correlation. Seems unlikely they would be poles apart like that. I agree always best to use a temp sensor to get an accurate reading, but I'd have thought component temps would offer a decent guide and indication if something was wrong.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> How would I go about building a loop optimized for the Mayhems Aurora coolant.


-Thin, single pass radiator(s)
-No bay reservoirs
-Pump capable of high flow rates
-No jet plate installed in the CPU block
-As few 90 degree fittings as possible
-No dead spots where particles can collect such as a drain valve
-Only as many blocks as necessary. No board or memory blocks.

Follow those and the coolant can last up to 6-8 months or as short as a few weeks.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> How would I go about building a loop optimized for the Mayhems Aurora coolant.


1st and foremost, take into account your local ambient temp at different times of the year, in special during summer time, assuming AC is Off.

then make sure you have enough Radiators to keep the temp below 50C

the rest is putting your favourite pieces together (fittings, pumps, reservoirs, fans, soft tubes / hard tubes)


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> -Thin, single pass radiator(s)
> -No bay reservoirs
> -Pump capable of high flow rates
> -No jet plate installed in the CPU block
> -As few 90 degree fittings as possible
> -No dead spots where particles can collect such as a drain valve
> -Only as many blocks as necessary. No board or memory blocks.
> 
> Follow those and the coolant can last up to 6-8 months or as short as a few weeks.


What's a jet plate?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> 1st and foremost, take into account your local ambient temp at different times of the year, in special during summer time, assuming AC is Off.
> 
> then make sure you have enough Radiators to keep the temp below 50C
> 
> the rest is putting your favourite pieces together (fittings, pumps, reservoirs, fans, soft tubes / hard tubes)


In summer the highest it will get is around 27C on the hottest days. Possibly up to 30C very late in the day since im on the west side of the house and have a massive window in my room. I dont plan on doing a hard line build because I know I would ruin something. What watercooling brands are the best, I know of EK and Bitspower.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> So you think someone could have fluid temps consistently above 50c, yet component temps all much lower than that? I've often used temp sensors, but always seen a fairly close correlation. Seems unlikely they would be poles apart like that. I agree always best to use a temp sensor to get an accurate reading, but I'd have thought component temps would offer a decent guide and indication if something was wrong.


It would depend on the each person's setup I would think. My GPUs for example also receive additional cooling from back plates with fuijipoly pads on the back of the socket, memory, and VRMs sections of the PCB. My case airflow can also drop the GPU core temps a few degrees just from passive cooling alone. Basically more things come into play when trying to relate core temp to fluid temp.

While I wrote this response, I OC'd my cards and lowered my radiator fans to 800RPM. Looping the Heaven benchmark right now and my core temps are below. I wonder how the airflow your rads are optimized for play a factor in the delta T between core and fluid temps?

CPU - 63c
GPU1 - 47c
GPU2 - 48c
GPU3 - 45c
Fluid - 51c

Fans set to 1500RPM

CPU - 59c
GPU1 - 42c
GPU2 - 42c
GPU3 - 39c
Fluid - 38c


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> What's a jet plate?


A jet plate is an insert that is sometimes used to optimize the flow of coolant in a CPU block for the chip you are using. They can collect aurora particles over time.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> A jet plate is an insert that is sometimes used to optimize the flow of coolant in a CPU block for the chip you are using. They can collect aurora particles over time.


Just to let you know. My sig rig isnt what im water cooling. Thats my temp laptop that a friend gave me. I plan on getting a 6700k and a rx 480.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> Just to let you know. My sig rig isnt what im water cooling. Thats my temp laptop that a friend gave me. I plan on getting a 6700k and a rx 480.


I didn't even look at your sig rig honestly.

EK for example includes multiple jet plates to use with their CPU blocks. If you are running Aurora, install the CPU block without one of the included jet plates (if your block comes with one).


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> I didn't even look at your sig rig honestly.
> 
> EK for example includes multiple jet plates to use with their CPU blocks. If you are running Aurora, install the CPU block without one of the included jet plates (if your block comes with one).


Ok. Thanks for the help.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> Ok. Thanks for the help.


Not a problem. Just know that Aurora is intended as a short term coolant. Good luck


----------



## AllGamer

well according to last few pages, the formula mix for the Aurora has improved, so it might stay on shiny for longer months


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> well according to last few pages, the formula mix for the Aurora has improved, so it might stay on shiny for longer months


We can hope! I used the the OG Aurora and the Aurora 2.0. The second version of Aurora lasted about a month before I noticed it wasn't as active. By month two, the effect was gone. I did leave the PC off for extended periods of time though. Maybe running the pump 24/7 will extend the life of the particles in suspension. I know some OCN members have gone 3 times that long before, but most never make it that long.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> X1 does not gunk up systems. There is something else at play there. I have been running X1 for over 4 years in different color variations. Are all of these guys running soft tubing? Gunk buildup is almost always plasticizer build up from poor quality tubing, or fluid temps in excess of 45c.
> 
> This issue with X1 and nickel plating is also non existent. I have only seen nickel plating issues from one brand, EK. In those same 4 years I have been running X1, I have been running a nickle CPU block, multiple GPU blocks, and silver coated fittings without issue.
> Your pH is likely off. Pick up some pH test strips from a drug store and test your fluid. Red is very pH sensitive and canl turn purple or brown. Another known factor is excessive heat. What are your fluid (not component) temps?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiokarai*
> 
> Well, to be precise this very well could be something entirely different in this particular case... but there was a debate not too long ago about mayhems dyes changing colours -> and high water temp was the main suspect of this (apart from the metal mixing in the loop etc.)


I couldn't say what my coolant temps are as well, I just don't have a sensor in there to keep an eye on it, I'm guessing it gets very hot as I'm cooling an i7 at 1.568v and a pair of 980ti cards with a 360mm rad and a 420mm rad. Max temp on the 980ti's is around 56c and the cpu hits 84c max if that helps but guessing not.


----------



## OrangeRaptor

I usually leave my computer on all the time anyways. And if it does "deactivate" on me then I can always just refill the loop. I wouldnt mind too much.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I couldn't say what my coolant temps are as well, I just don't have a sensor in there to keep an eye on it, I'm guessing it gets very hot as I'm cooling an i7 at 1.568v and a pair of 980ti cards with a 360mm rad and a 420mm rad. Max temp on the 980ti's is around 56c and the cpu hits 84c max if that helps but guessing not.


holy vcore Batman haha. How long have you run the chip like that?

I would assume your fluid temps are well above 50c causing your color shift. I remember when that Youtuber Jayztwocents pulled his hair out trying to figure out what was causing his Mayhems coolants to change color. They finally narrowed it down to excessive heat build up in his fluid causing it to break down.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> I would assume your fluid temps are well above 50c causing your color shift. I remember when that Youtuber Jayztwocents pulled his hair out trying to figure out what was causing his Mayhems coolants to change color. They finally narrowed it down to excessive heat build up in his fluid causing it to break down.


This sorta validates my opinion that people who are watercooling for silence are going about it wrong. Watercooling is for performance and sound should take a back seat, otherwise you're better off going with air.


----------



## FuriousPop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> This sorta validates my opinion that people who are watercooling for silence are going about it wrong. Watercooling is for performance and sound should take a back seat, otherwise you're better off going with air.


i did the opposite - performance in the back seat and sound in the front. I still have my old air system as a 2nd PC for the misses - and my new 2 yr old water cooled one is alot more silent than it, especially when both are running at the same time in the same room - even with headphones on, i can still hear that 2nd PC like a vacuum cleaner! lol

OCing something for that little bit more is just overkill since i mainly play games on my systems so not required for my needs.

each to their own i reckon...


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FuriousPop*
> 
> i did the opposite - performance in the back seat and sound in the front. I still have my old air system as a 2nd PC for the misses - and my new 2 yr old water cooled one is alot more silent than it, especially when both are running at the same time in the same room - even with headphones on, i can still hear that 2nd PC like a vacuum cleaner! lol
> 
> OCing something for that little bit more is just overkill since i mainly play games on my systems so not required for my needs.
> 
> each to their own i reckon...


There are such things as passively cooled computers. By doing what you did, you're creating sub-optimal heat dissipation, which defeats the entire purpose of water cooling in the first place.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeRaptor*
> 
> How would I go about building a loop optimized for the Mayhems Aurora coolant.


For cpu block I found the bitspower summit works really well. It has larger channels in the block that help the aurora get through with less resistance, just make sure to remove the jet plate. If you must use an angled fitting, try to make it work with a 45 degree fitting or two, the 90's kill the aurora.

edit:
Also, a tube res is best and you should have the coolant return to the top to keep the aurora particles suspended longer.


----------



## DocShay

Mayhems Pastel White concentrate, mixed 2:1 (approx) blue/green mayhems dye and a touch of yellow


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> 
> [SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!][URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2929292/width/500/height/1000]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2929292/width/500/height/1000[/URL]
> 
> Mayhems Pastel White concentrate, mixed 2:1 (approx) blue/green mayhems dye and a touch of yellow[/SPOILER]
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> Teal is a scrumptious color.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Using the blitz kit now to clean out gunk and plasticizer from my loop.

Really needed a deep clean. What is the acid used in part one? I have plenty of the alkine part 2 leftover. Just curious if I ever needed to use it again.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> Using the blitz kit now to clean out gunk and plasticizer from my loop.
> 
> Really needed a deep clean. What is the acid used in part one? I have plenty of the alkine part 2 leftover. Just curious if I ever needed to use it again.


You didn't pump the acid through the loop, did you? You are only suppose to use it in the rads.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

My loop is acidic, below 6.2. What do I ad to bring the PH up?


----------



## MoGTy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> My loop is acidic, below 6.2. What do I ad to bring the PH up?


Not sure what a safe solution would be for a watercooling loop.

But for humans, I usually add sodiumbicarbonate.


----------



## DarthBaggins

For Mayhems dyed fluids ph should be between 7.0-8.0


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

No I did not use the acid except on my copper rad. The alkaline flush is done and I'm leak testing the final loop. Everything is just as good as new if not better.

Just wanted to know if anyone knew what type of acid is used or something close besides white vinegar.


----------



## DocShay

Mayhems part 1 contains phosphoric acid at 0.1%. Not sure what/if anything else is in there aside from something to dilute it to that percentage.

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://mayhems.co.uk/files/msds-sheets/Blitz/Cleaning-1.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwiW_4mCwo3RAhVB3IMKHYeLAzwQFggcMAE&usg=AFQjCNEERG4EAPdEACXbsmJGpFnAfzr42g


----------



## DocShay

Mayhems part 1 contains phosphoric acid at 0.1%. Not sure what/if anything else is in there aside from something to dilute it to that percentage.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

The Mayhems XT-1 fixed my pH problem. I'm good for another six months. I'll gather the things I want to replace depending on how AMD's products turn out. But with extreme OCs with fans, pump and everything full speed only hitting around 58c. With no fans on and pump at 2300 rpm I'm at ambient so that's good enough for me. I'll tear it down in 6 months and do it again. Initially I was hoping that with clear coolant I could run for two or more years, now I know that is not going to happen. Price you pay for having a VERY high performance PC. Added two 960 Evos while I was in there. hehe

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0753_zpshg7goyks.jpg.html


----------



## OrangeRaptor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> The Mayhems XT-1 fixed my pH problem. I'm good for another six months. I'll gather the things I want to replace depending on how AMD's products turn out. But with extreme OCs with fans, pump and everything full speed only hitting around 58c. With no fans on and pump at 2300 rpm I'm at ambient so that's good enough for me. I'll tear it down in 6 months and do it again. Initially I was hoping that with clear coolant I could run for two or more years, now I know that is not going to happen. Price you pay for having a VERY high performance PC. Added two 960 Evos while I was in there. hehe
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0753_zpshg7goyks.jpg.html


Thats hot...


----------



## adriankiller

new loop



Spec :


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



- i7 6700K 4.8Ghz
- GiGabyte z170x SOC Force
- EvGa GTX 980TI
- Corsair 900D
- Avexir Platinium DDR4 4x4GB 2133MHZ
- BeQuiet p8 1000W
- 2x Plextor M6e BE 128GB / Segate 1TB
- AsUs StriX SoaR
- EdiFier 980T
- LG 34UM58



more photo


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ali13245

Does anyone know what the shelf life is for mayhems pastel? I ordered 3 bottles of blue pastel and only ended up needing 2 bottles.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Does anyone know what the shelf life is for mayhems pastel? I ordered 3 bottles of blue pastel and only ended up needing 2 bottles.


3 years if its not open and kept in dark cool place


----------



## devilhead

For the first time will use x1 coolant(clear), because of diacoloration pastel and pastel extreme







but saw on bottle date which states 2015.05.20, damn thats long yime ago...i hope it would hold at least 1 year


----------



## Bluemustang

Been using pastel ice white for awhile now and it's time to replace the fluid. I see that there's a new version of pastel (pastel extreme white) would this be a good replacement for my pastel ice white? Is longevity similar or better?

And would diluting to 2L give more life to the fluid via higher concentration of inhibitors?

Thanks!


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> For the first time will use x1 coolant(clear), because of diacoloration pastel and pastel extreme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but saw on bottle date which states 2015.05.20, damn thats long yime ago...i hope it would hold at least 1 year


That looks like XT-1 clear. it should still be good as long as it wasn't stored improperly. The recommended 10-12mo change period is once it's in use but be aware that XT-1 wasn't designed for coolant temps over 36c, the biocides break down prematurely (I had a bad biological growth myself after about 4 months of 38c-41c coolant temps under load which took many hours of scrubbing and cleaning to get rid of. was using about 10% mix ratio).

Edit: Also, if not using at freezing temps I would probably use a concentration between 10% to 20% if you're intending to last a year and be aware of coolant temps.

Edit2: And I'm still waiting on the "fixed" version of XT-1, supposedly dubbed XT1 Plus. Swiftech is using it in their AIOs for awhile now. Last I heard Mayhems hadn't gotten around to bottling it for retail yet and that was over 6-8 months ago IIRC. I've only managed to obtain about 50ml of it from a Swiftech RMA but my upgraded loop needs about 1500ml of coolant...


----------



## devilhead

My loop doesn't get hotter than 32-33C (usually 30C gaming, 25 idle)







maybe at summer time, it could heat up to 35C








I just mixed 3.2l distiled water with 0.5l XT-1 , made one hour benchmarks at 5C liquid, hope nothing went wrong with liquid








i would love to get those XT1 Plus









edit: so it looks that i'm getting corrosion in my brand new titan xp waterblock







it's so annoying, looks like pastel just had a discoloration, but didn't done anything wrong with corrosion







in all my watercooling history (~6 years), i didn't had any corroscion


----------



## nrpeyton

Hi lads.

Trying to buy 6 bottles of Mayhems XT-1 clear 250ml from the mayhems website but there is nowhere to enter a quantity? I cant seem to select more than one. If i try adding more to my basket i get the error: "item already in your basket".

Have I found a bug with the website?

I emailed customer service yesterday (Saturday) but I'm not sure they work weekends - as no reply.

Anyone else have this problem?

Thanks.

Nick


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Hi lads.
> 
> Trying to buy 6 bottles of Mayhems XT-1 clear 250ml from the mayhems website but there is nowhere to enter a quantity? I cant seem to select more than one. If i try adding more to my basket i get the error: "item already in your basket".
> 
> Have I found a bug with the website?
> 
> I emailed customer service yesterday (Saturday) but I'm not sure they work weekends - as no reply.
> 
> Anyone else have this problem?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Nick


For me it just shows a quantity on the product page to select how many you want. I'm in the US so it may be different by region


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Been using pastel ice white for awhile now and it's time to replace the fluid. I see that there's a new version of pastel (pastel extreme white) would this be a good replacement for my pastel ice white? Is longevity similar or better?
> 
> And would diluting to 2L give more life to the fluid via higher concentration of inhibitors?
> 
> Thanks!


Anyone?


----------



## Fyrwulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Anyone?


I used the extreme as my base in when I mixed my custom color, but I don't have a computer to put it in yet.


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> My loop doesn't get hotter than 32-33C (usually 30C gaming, 25 idle)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe at summer time, it could heat up to 35C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just mixed 3.2l distiled water with 0.5l XT-1 , made one hour benchmarks at 5C liquid, hope nothing went wrong with liquid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i would love to get those XT1 Plus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: so it looks that i'm getting corrosion in my brand new titan xp waterblock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's so annoying, looks like pastel just had a discoloration, but didn't done anything wrong with corrosion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in all my watercooling history (~6 years), i didn't had any corroscion


how many rads ?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Anyone?


I know a few who had that coolant turn yellow (It was only inside the PC for a few months).

Personally I would use Ice Dragon nano Fluid (Rev 2 - 2016) & use Mayhems non-stain dyes. I had this Coolant in my PC for over a year without any issues. The color and temps are exactly the same as they were on Day 1.


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> how many rads ?


2x 360's 60mm and 2x 560's 60mm


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> 2x 360's 60mm and 2x 560's 60mm


awesome







btw what fans and rpm's ? im planning similar ... but 2x 240 60mm instead of 2x360 60mm ... in what case do you have it ?


----------



## nrpeyton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> For me it just shows a quantity on the product page to select how many you want. I'm in the US so it may be different by region




*Trying to buy 6 bottles* of Mayhems XT-1 clear 250ml from the mayhems website, but there is nowhere to enter a quantity?

I cant seem to select more than one. If i try adding more to my basket i get the error: "item already in your basket".

Have I found a *bug* with the Mayhems website?

I emailed customer service yesterday (Saturday) but I'm not sure they work weekends - as no reply.

The website is https://mayhems.co.uk

P.S.
I've tried ordering with a different browser and even my smart-phone. Same problem.


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw what fans and rpm's ? im planning similar ... but 2x 240 60mm instead of 2x360 60mm ... in what case do you have it ?


CaseLabs STH10, and using gentle typhoon 1850 and some NB-eLoop B12-3 1900rpm


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Trying to buy 6 bottles of Mayhems XT-1 clear 250ml from the mayhems website, but there is nowhere to enter a quantity?
> 
> I cant seem to select more than one. If i try adding more to my basket i get the error: "item already in your basket".
> 
> Have I found a bug with the Mayhems website?
> 
> I emailed customer service yesterday (Saturday) but I'm not sure they work weekends - as no reply.
> 
> The website is https://mayhems.co.uk
> 
> P.S.
> I've tried ordering with a different browser and even my smart-phone. Same problem.


I've had exact same issue months ago, its their website that needs fixing, fortunately for me when I emailed Steve he, or whomever does their website fixed it I couldn't get the right quantity at first.

Although its strange they not responding to you I have emailed them few times and got response if not the same than the next day
Good luck


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> *Trying to buy 6 bottles* of Mayhems XT-1 clear 250ml from the mayhems website, but there is nowhere to enter a quantity?
> 
> I cant seem to select more than one. If i try adding more to my basket i get the error: "item already in your basket".
> 
> Have I found a *bug* with the Mayhems website?
> 
> I emailed customer service yesterday (Saturday) but I'm not sure they work weekends - as no reply.
> 
> The website is https://mayhems.co.uk
> 
> P.S.
> I've tried ordering with a different browser and even my smart-phone. Same problem.


I know the site states: Minimum quantity for "XT-1 250ml Clear Coolant" is 1. They might mean maximum you can order is one. I never ordered from their webstore due to shipping cost was to high.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: Anyone know what the Mayhems Non Stain UV Clear / Ice Blue Dye looks like. Mayhems site doesn't have any pictures for that dye.

I want to to mix clear with the dye not 100% sure whats it going to look like.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> For me it just shows a quantity on the product page to select how many you want. I'm in the US so it may be different by region
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Trying to buy 6 bottles* of Mayhems XT-1 clear 250ml from the mayhems website, but there is nowhere to enter a quantity?
> 
> I cant seem to select more than one. If i try adding more to my basket i get the error: "item already in your basket".
> 
> Have I found a *bug* with the Mayhems website?
> 
> I emailed customer service yesterday (Saturday) but I'm not sure they work weekends - as no reply.
> 
> The website is https://mayhems.co.uk
> 
> P.S.
> I've tried ordering with a different browser and even my smart-phone. Same problem.
Click to expand...

That's a lot of fluid, what are you using it for? The xt-1 can be diluted up to 5 liters per bottle.


----------



## nrpeyton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I've had exact same issue months ago, its their website that needs fixing, fortunately for me when I emailed Steve he, or whomever does their website fixed it I couldn't get the right quantity at first.
> 
> Although its strange they not responding to you I have emailed them few times and got response if not the same than the next day
> Good luck


My loop takes about 5 litres to fill.

1 bottle will only make a 5L mixture at 5%.

I need about 30% mixture volume for frost protection down to -20c

For sub-zero on my water chiller.

Frost Protection °C / *% v/v of Mayhems XT-1 in the system
- N/A - 5%
- 2.5°C - 10%
- 5 °C - 16%
- 10 °C - 22%
- 15 °C - 28%
- 20 °C - 33%
- 25 °C - 38%
- 30 °C - 42%
- 35 °C - 46%
- 40 °C - 50%
- 45 °C - 54%
- 50 °C - 58%


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> For me it just shows a quantity on the product page to select how many you want. I'm in the US so it may be different by region
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Trying to buy 6 bottles* of Mayhems XT-1 clear 250ml from the mayhems website, but there is nowhere to enter a quantity?
> 
> I cant seem to select more than one. If i try adding more to my basket i get the error: "item already in your basket".
> 
> Have I found a *bug* with the Mayhems website?
> 
> I emailed customer service yesterday (Saturday) but I'm not sure they work weekends - as no reply.
> 
> The website is https://mayhems.co.uk
> 
> P.S.
> I've tried ordering with a different browser and even my smart-phone. Same problem.
Click to expand...

As others have reported, the website ordering page is pretty screwed-up, lol.

I had the same issues as well, and then emailed customer service.
They responded promptly, and did my order manually from that point on.


----------



## nrpeyton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> As others have reported, the website ordering page is pretty screwed-up, lol.
> 
> I had the same issues as well, and then emailed customer service.
> They responded promptly, and did my order manually from that point on.


sounds good, i'll fire another email off or maybe open a ticket.

shame they haven't got anyone manning the stations over the weekend though.

thanks for the info & time to reply, regarding my issue, much appreciated 

Anyone here running the *XT-1;* is everything all good with your Nickel-plating and Acrylics (reservoir and *tops of blocks*) ?


----------



## nrpeyton

Anyone have a contact phone number for Mayhems?

I was asked to email an address they gave me with my order to be taken manually (as website isnt allowing me to enter a quantity).

Emailed twice from yesterday. And still never been contacted about how to send payment.

Anyone?? Beginning to get a little frustrated.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Sales
01924 211432
Support
01325 241938
https://mayhems.co.uk/contact-us/


----------



## nrpeyton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Sales
> 01924 211432
> Support
> 01325 241938
> https://mayhems.co.uk/contact-us/


Many thanks 

Got it sorted and my delivery is coming tomorrow 

They were just very busy ;-)


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Anyone know what the Mayhems Non Stain UV Clear / Ice Blue Dye looks like. Mayhems site doesn't have any pictures for that dye.
> 
> I want to to mix clear with the dye not 100% sure whats it going to look like.


See build in my sig, that's UV Clear Blue. Ice Blue isn't as bright, but the Clear Blue fades pretty quickly, probably by as much as 50% within a week or so. Apparently they've tweaked their formulas to last longer now, but I don't know to what extent. I understand all UV breaks down over time, that's just inherent to its properties.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Sales
> 01924 211432
> Support
> 01325 241938
> https://mayhems.co.uk/contact-us/
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> Got it sorted and my delivery is coming tomorrow
> 
> They were just very busy ;-)
Click to expand...

Your web site issue is now sorted, asses got kicked into touch over it.

XT1 plus will be out in the next 4 weeks.

Sorry were not around much on here due to work loads and being buried in development. New staff have been taken on as well and training is ongoing.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nrpeyton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Sales
> 01924 211432
> Support
> 01325 241938
> https://mayhems.co.uk/contact-us/
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> Got it sorted and my delivery is coming tomorrow
> 
> They were just very busy ;-)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Your web site issue is now sorted, asses got kicked into touch over it.
> 
> XT1 plus will be out in the next 4 weeks.
> 
> Sorry were not around much on here due to work loads and being buried in development. New staff have been taken on as well and training is ongoing.
Click to expand...

Yeah!


----------



## Blackops_2

If i was about to switch from three years of running X1 to pastel green, would blitz be required? Or a simple distilled flush?


----------



## pompss

Again white pastel turned yellow after few months.
Seems happen all the time.

Third time now different system brand new parts cleaned with blitz , ph was ok still issues and discoloration

That my third attempt.

Sad.


----------



## DarthBaggins

What company of rads?


----------



## atomicus

Anyone here used Ice Dragon Nano coolant? I see no mention on the Mayhems site of it containing biocide. Does it? I do see that it contains zinc oxide... should this be of concern under any circumstances, i.e materials you shouldn't mix with etc.?


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Again white pastel turned yellow after few months.
> Seems happen all the time.
> 
> Third time now different system brand new parts cleaned with blitz , ph was ok still issues and discoloration
> 
> That my third attempt.
> 
> Sad.


Don't know if the new pastel extreme is any different but i used the older pastel white (thought it was called pastel ice white but the old one isnt called that on PPCS right now). But anyway i used that one for about 18 months and it ran pure white. Needing to change now because over the last few months its slowly started changing ever so slightly blue tinged. Changing to the pastel extreme white so hopefully thatll work as well for me as the old did.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> If i was about to switch from three years of running X1 to pastel green, would blitz be required? Or a simple distilled flush?


It will definitely bring health back to your system, no doubt, It will clean your internal blocks and rads so you don't have to open them and wondering whats going on inside, Blitz# 2 its awesome cleaner


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Don't know if the new pastel extreme is any different but i used the older pastel white (thought it was called pastel ice white but the old one isnt called that on PPCS right now). But anyway i used that one for about 18 months and it ran pure white. Needing to change now because over the last few months its slowly started changing ever so slightly blue tinged. Changing to the pastel extreme white so hopefully thatll work as well for me as the old did.


I used pastel extreme white.after 3 months color change in light yellow.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> What company of rads?


In my builds i used xspc ,Ekwb and the last one was Hardware Labs nemesis gtx

all rads changed color after 3-4 months using mayhems cleaning kit

three different brands.

Pastel White turned yellow two times
Pastel Red turned Violet

Sorry no more of my money will go to mayhems products


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> I used pastel extreme white.after 3 months color change in light yellow.


Ok? Thats got nothing to do with my point being...dont know if it was actually the fluid that caused the color change or your loop as mine had no problems for 18 months but it was not the extreme. If there was a change in the extreme that causes that issue i hope not because i just ordered a bottle of it.

Be nice to hear comments on this from Mayhem.

PS: Will using half the bottle for 1.5 liters (just under the max recommended 3.5L dilution) last just as long anti corrosive/biocide wise as if used the whole bottle in my loop? Does less dilution just increase the whiteness or does it also help with longevity of the fluid?

Would like to know whether to throw the whole bottle in or not.


----------



## Mayhem

We have seen cleaning issues in the past with the Hardware Labs nemesis gtx, we ended up buying four of them in our selfs and testing them and it took a good few days of Blitz + hot water (blitz part 2 + Water temp at 40 to 50c) to clean out of all the flux. We spoke to Hardware Labs over this problem a good few months ago and i think they sorted it all out. So it will depend on how old you rad was when you bought them. The amount of work some rads take to clean is reminiscent of the days of old with thermochill. Its not a real issue as such, just dammed hard work cleaning.

When it comes to diluting any of our products if you dilute more than we say on the bottle then the product is less effective at protecting you equipment.


----------



## M3TAl

Had been waiting on the new XT1 Plus coolant but gave up, guess I'm ~4 weeks too early







. Just threw a loop together for the backup rig out of old watercooling parts and a chopped up Antec Kuhler 920. Ya it's ugly and tubing all over the place but I wanted the CPU block + reservoir to be removable/serviceable without draining the loop.

Went with XT1 Blue and used the entire bottle along with 10 or so drops of the non stain blue dye. It probably took about 1Ltr of coolant in total. Hopefully ~25% concentration is enough to get 1+ year out of it.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have seen cleaning issues in the past with the Hardware Labs nemesis gtx, we ended up buying four of them in our selfs and testing them and it took a good few days of Blitz + hot water (blitz part 2 + Water temp at 40 to 50c) to clean out of all the flux. We spoke to Hardware Labs over this problem a good few months ago and i think they sorted it all out. So it will depend on how old you rad was when you bought them. The amount of work some rads take to clean is reminiscent of the days of old with thermochill. Its not a real issue as such, just dammed hard work cleaning.
> 
> When it comes to diluting any of our products if you dilute more than we say on the bottle then the product is less effective at protecting you equipment.


I didnt ask whether i could dilute further than recommended. I only asked whether or not diluting to 3L versus only 1.5L (recommended 2-3.5 liters) will have any affect on the longevity and anti corrosive qualities of the fluid or if it doesnt matter and less dilution simply increases the white brilliance of the fluid as was all that was said on PPCS description.

I'd appreciate a specific answer to that.

Thank you!


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> It will definitely bring health back to your system, no doubt, It will clean your internal blocks and rads so you don't have to open them and wondering whats going on inside, Blitz# 2 its awesome cleaner


Do you think Blitz is necessary? I do have blitz but if i can i'd just rather flush with distilled, change tubing, clean the blocks, and run pastel.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have seen cleaning issues in the past with the Hardware Labs nemesis gtx, we ended up buying four of them in our selfs and testing them and it took a good few days of Blitz + hot water (blitz part 2 + Water temp at 40 to 50c) to clean out of all the flux. We spoke to Hardware Labs over this problem a good few months ago and i think they sorted it all out. So it will depend on how old you rad was when you bought them. The amount of work some rads take to clean is reminiscent of the days of old with thermochill. Its not a real issue as such, just dammed hard work cleaning.
> 
> When it comes to diluting any of our products if you dilute more than we say on the bottle then the product is less effective at protecting you equipment.


I bought hardware labs 2-3 month ago .
Anyway on the instruction and video you guys said that blitz shouldn't run for over 24 hours so now you telling me that i have to run it with hot water for few days on this rad.

Well i dont think this is professional at all nott to share or warning on the bottle that some rad requires more then 24 hours and that its safe to run blitz for more then 24 hours.

Now im not willing to spend another $70-80 to buy again blitz and two bottles of extreme white also without continuing the time i have to spent to flush , clean and replace.

How do we fix this ?


----------



## Barefooter

I used Blitz part 1 and part 2 as directed when I built my main rig over a year ago.

I just had it apart after running for over a year with X1 red and the coolant looked just as good as the day I poured it in!


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Do you think Blitz is necessary? I do have blitz but if i can i'd just rather flush with distilled, change tubing, clean the blocks, and run pastel.


No Its not necessary, but distilled water alone, and you can flush it dozen times will not clean your system the way Blitz would, that's for sure.

I used Blitz #2 in my system few times I have never took anything apart until recently to see how that Blitz actually clean things, it does absolutely amazing job.

I care about my systems longevity and overall performance, so blitzing even annually which again is not necessary but due to its low cost but very effective cleaning solution,so why not and that will flash all crap out that have accumulated over the months. Its totally personal preference.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I've stuck with the classic hot water/vinegar flush, then flush thoroughly with distilled with a couple table spoons of baking soda, then straight distilled. I've had zero issues with using my method but it does take a few days to complete


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I've stuck with the classic hot water/vinegar flush, then flush thoroughly with distilled with a couple table spoons of baking soda, then straight distilled. I've had zero issues with using my method but it does take a few days to complete


I've always done this to until the last loop I built. I cleaned them by hand and then used blitz pt 1 on rads and 2 on the whole loop. I was really very impressed at how much stuff it cleaned out. I thought I had everything pretty dang clean but I guess not lol. I'll be blitzing everything from now on, it's cheap enough.


----------



## DarthBaggins

The blitz system is a great kit for the price, especially since it can now be bought locally for me at MicroCenter
Lately I've been using EK's EVO coolant with Mayhems dyes and have zero issues


----------



## Blackops_2

I never used blitz #1 on the rads of this particular build cause i was running X1 and not pastel. I did do a hot water flush for the rads. It's been nearly 3 years lol. I think i'm going to flush with distilled just to get some of the blood red coolant out and then run blitz #2 in it for 24hrs. Then when the bitspower SLi crystal links get here this week i'll change the tubing and assemble everything, then leak test.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I never used blitz #1 on the rads of this particular build cause i was running X1 and not pastel. I did do a hot water flush for the rads. It's been nearly 3 years lol. I think i'm going to flush with distilled just to get some of the blood red coolant out and then run blitz #2 in it for 24hrs. Then when the bitspower SLi crystal links get here this week i'll change the tubing and assemble everything, then leak test.


I have never run Blitz #1 with my rads either (4x 480 Nemesis Ultra stealth) but when I got my rads I didn't know about Blitz.

But what I did I have flashed them several times (12-20 times...yes that is extreme ) I am meticulous, do it once and don't have regrets, each time shook them very vigorously for few minutes with distilled and It was a lot of dirt.

Then weeks later I found blitz and used it Part #2 for my whole system, you really don't know this whole a lot of different, but it definitely cleans nicely I have discover that later on.

I did experiment on my older Titan Hydro coppers blocks before I changed them to Heatkiller.

I had run my blocks for about 1.5 years with distilled water and Biocide Extreme only , than used Blitz #2 to flashed it and then took 1 of the block apart to see how it looked and I tell you, It looked like brand new.

My mistake was that I didn't took 1 of the blocks apart to show before and after and I sold the remaining 2 blocks so I only have the picture of block that is clean, but the point is that Blitz #2 does really nice job removing some oxidation of the micro channels and also whatever is inside your loop that have accumulated over the months or years.

I do a lot of heavy GPU and CPU intensive work, my blocks take a lot of heat beatings so I always like to make sure that they get the best treatment and annual cleaning with Blitz, it works well for me, it's not necessary, but for the price and final results it's well worth it.

Anyways, when you use Blitz #2 you don't really have to run it for 24 hours, it will pretty much clean stuff within first few 6-8 hours, but when you done using blitz, make sure to flash it with DI several times and I mean maybe dozen times to make sure that all remaining Blitz is gone, that's where the most important part is, get all out to avoid remains mixing with your final fancy liquid


----------



## Iceman2733

Blitz part 2 can it be ran with Petg tubing or should we switch to soft tubing? I want to flush my system but haven't seen anyone do the flush with hard line

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Blitz part 2 can it be ran with Petg tubing or should we switch to soft tubing? I want to flush my system but haven't seen anyone do the flush with hard line


Its safe with acrylic I use Monsoon black, that's the whole point of cleaning absolutely every part of your system, that's how I do mine , but PETG im not sure I will never use PETG so hopefully someone can give you that advise.


----------



## zumppjr96

Mayhems Pastel Blue user here. 2L Premix (Cuz I am lazy







)


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Anyways, when you use Blitz #2 you don't really have to run it for 24 hours, it will pretty much clean stuff within first few 6-8 hours, but when you done using blitz, make sure to flash it with DI several times and I mean maybe dozen times to make sure that all remaining Blitz is gone, that's where the most important part is, get all out to avoid remains mixing with your final fancy liquid


Will do thanks for the advise! I just got done tearing the loop down. Lol nothing went as expected. Somehow i manged to crack the acrylic top on my EK supremacy, so less i can find a spare top i'm about to order that upgrade kit just for the top, might contact EK see if i can just buy one from them. My interpretation of my "drain" did not work at all. It was a bloody mess. Live and learn i guess.

I've got to come up with a competent drain though.

Also i'm pretty sure this question is rhetorical but does X1 Blood red come out of clothes? I'm thinking no.


----------



## DarthBaggins

A T-Valve in the lowest is the best version of a drain, I had to add one after the fact on my 303 since was more excited on filling the loop lol. Also thinking I should swap the CPU to rad run to the top port on the rad, just trying to think how to run it other than above the fans (want to use as little tubing as possible)


----------



## Blackops_2

Here was my interpretation of one. Which just flat out didn't work. I'm thinking of putting a T-valve right off the pump and drilling a hole through the bottom of the chassis with a spade bit and running it that way.

I think i used almost an entire roll of paper towels









For those of you who switch colors do you just flush until it's pretty much gone? Does Blitz help remove some stain at all like alcohol seems to?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Blitz part 2 can it be ran with Petg tubing or should we switch to soft tubing? I want to flush my system but haven't seen anyone do the flush with hard line
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


I used it on my PETG and have had no problems since then (6 months ago I'd guess)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here was my interpretation of one. Which just flat out didn't work. I'm thinking of putting a T-valve right off the pump and drilling a hole through the bottom of the chassis with a spade bit and running it that way.
> 
> I think i used almost an entire roll of paper towels


Why didn't it work? I take it you couldn't get the liquid out of the case and it made a mess instead? could you use an extension or a fitting with some soft tubing or does it not line up like that?


----------



## Blackops_2

.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I used it on my PETG and have had no problems since then (6 months ago I'd guess)
> Why didn't it work? I take it you couldn't get the liquid out of the case and it made a mess instead? could you use an extension or a fitting with some soft tubing or does it not line up like that?


Yeah i used a compression fitting and a piece of tubing. Just didn't drain as i was expecting. I ended up pumping the majority out and then just tearing it down. Just compared to the videos i had watched it didn't seem to work that well. I'm going to attempt to move the 240 up more when i reassemble. I couldn't really reassemble the loop today anyway because i'm waiting on some SLi connections for the second 780 classy. Instead of opting for so many fittings going from the 240 to the GPUs i'm just going to run tubing. I'll zip tie it to the side of the case if it's not looking straight and bothering me. I could use all those fittings around the pump and elsewhere.

Glad to hear about Blitz #2 being fine with PETG because i plan on PETG for the Define S build next year.


----------



## Blackops_2

Fwiw here's the blood red new on the left and what I took out of the loop after 3 years. Good bit darker.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> .
> Yeah i used a compression fitting and a piece of tubing. Just didn't drain as i was expecting.


did you open another port somewhere in the loop? In my experience, it's best to also have somewhere you can vent the loop so air can easily exchange through the loop. For me it's been the difference between a drain not working at all and working perfectly


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> did you open another port somewhere in the loop? In my experience, it's best to also have somewhere you can vent the loop so air can easily exchange through the loop. For me it's been the difference between a drain not working at all and working perfectly


Come to think of it, i don't think i did lol. Might of been my problem. I'm still going to reorganize. That was a mess of fittings looking back on it. I do like the straight runs as it looks more clean to me than running tubing everywhere, but the pump-240-GPU was a mess.


----------



## pompss

Time to test primochill white true opaque after spending hundred of dollars on Mayhems

No willing to give them one penny after none of them answer my request to replace the liquid.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> I didnt ask whether i could dilute further than recommended. I only asked whether or not diluting to 3L versus only 1.5L (recommended 2-3.5 liters) will have any affect on the longevity and anti corrosive qualities of the fluid or if it doesnt matter and less dilution simply increases the white brilliance of the fluid as was all that was said on PPCS description.
> 
> I'd appreciate a specific answer to that.
> 
> Thank you!


@Mayhem Please? I really need to know which to do.


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have seen cleaning issues in the past with the _Hardware Labs Nemesis GTX_. We ended up buying four of them in ourselves and testing them and it took a good few days of _Blitz_ + hot water (_Blitz_ part 2 + Water temp at 40 to 50c) to clean out of all the flux. We spoke to _Hardware Labs_ over this problem a good few months ago and i think they sorted it all out. So it will depend on how old you rad was when you bought them. The amount of work some rads take to clean is reminiscent of the days of old with _Thermochill_. Its not a real issue as such, just damned hard work cleaning.
> 
> When it comes to diluting any of our products if you dilute more than we say on the bottle then the product is less effective at protecting you equipment.


Is this likely to affect any other _Hardware Labs_ products? I have a set of four _Black Ice SR2 MP_ rads which I bought around this time last year. So far I haven't touched them while I bought the rest of my kit, but now I'm going to have start preparing them as I'm about ready to build.

I have a _Mayhems Blitz Pro_ kit (one of the last batches with the electronic PH meters). I have two 480mm rads and two 240mm rads. So am I going to have enough _Blitz Part 1_ to clean those, especially if the SR2s are also affected by the same issue as the _Nemesis GTX_?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> The blitz system is a great kit for the price, especially since it can now be bought locally for me at MicroCenter
> Lately I've been using EK's EVO coolant with Mayhems dyes and have zero issues


Interesting combo.. are you running any other additives or just using the EK Evo for that? I'm considering using Mayhem's red dye with distilled and a kill coil but it would be simpler just using the EK and dye


----------



## Revan654

Since Mayhem is refusing to answer my question & I even open a ticket in the support center and still not answer for days. Maybe someone here could answer my two questions:

1. With the Blitz Kit (Part 1), I want to double check I'm doing everything right. I followed the instruction that were supplied to the letter. My radiator still had black particles in it(Dirt). I have Hardware Labs SR-2 radiators. Is this normal before heading into Part 2 of the Blitz kit?

2. With the premixed Coolant (X1 series). I'm trying to get a very dark blue, what items would be required to achieve this effect? I would also like it to be UV active (If Possible, but not 100% required).


----------



## DarthBaggins

@Revan654
1. Sounds like you need to flush the rad(s) further since they should have next to nothing extra left in them. I would say a hot tap flush followed by distilled should suffice since you'll be doing flush pt.2 after anyway.
2. I'd recommend Mayhems UV Blue dyes to add to the premix to achieve the shade of blue you're looking to have. Also mix the dyes in a clear container prior to adding to the loop so you know the color is correct prior to adding to the loop. This way you don't add too much or have remnants mix as things settle etc.


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> The blitz system is a great kit for the price, especially since it can now be bought locally for me at MicroCenter
> Lately I've been using EK's EVO coolant with Mayhems dyes and have zero issues


I too purchased a kit from Microcenter, but regarding the EK EKoolant Evo - be aware that it is EG based (if you're using hard tubing) the pastels are not since they're mayhems but I don't believe MC carries those.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> [...]
> 1. With the Blitz Kit (Part 1), I want to double check I'm doing everything right. I followed the instruction that were supplied to the letter. My radiator still had black particles in it(Dirt). I have Hardware Labs SR-2 radiators. Is this normal before heading into Part 2 of the Blitz kit?


It's normal to see particles come out since part1 is designed to dislodge them, but after a few rinses there shouldn't be any. I'm unfamiliar with the SR-2 but if it's a dual-core design like the HWL GTX radiators then be aware they are even more difficult to fill and flush. I would use a spare pump to flush it in a small isolated loop if you have one available. higher temperatures will also help flush the gunk out.


----------



## DarthBaggins

They do Carry the EK labeled Pastel's that are made by Mayhems as well as X1 and Ultra Pure H2O


----------



## pompss

There is people here asking help with Mayhems products and no answer from Mayhems at all.

Very professional







Keep the good Work !


----------



## VSG

Why should Mayhems be required to provide free help here when they have mentioned multiple times there is a dedicated support ticket system on their website? Come on now. This is a Mayhems users club thread, not Mayhems official support thread.


----------



## nrpeyton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> There is people here asking help with Mayhems products and no answer from Mayhems at all.
> 
> Very professional
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep the good Work !


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why should Mayhems be required to provide free help here when they have mentioned multiple times there is a dedicated support ticket system on their website? Come on now. This is a Mayhems users club thread, not Mayhems official support thread.


I agree, this thread was set up for the users.

You wouldn't expect EVGA to answer issues on the 1080 owners club.

The 1080's are also probably 75% of EVGA's business right now... so that's not a ridiculous comment I just made, either.

We are lucky for the occasions which they do, show up.

They are also very good at answering support tickets during the week (monday to Friday).

I wrote to them via email a few months ago with a *non-ordinary* request and I wasn't fogged off, they emailed back promptly saying they would contact a chemical engineer then get back to me.

*They didn't forget.* I got a follow-up email from them the follwing day (without any further prompting from me).

Whats also important to remember; is most users will only come here when they have a problem... so much of the posts are about the 1% of problems rather than the 99% of success stories.

People always remember the bad, but rarely remember the good. A poor human trait where we all aught to do better.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quick question about blitz part 2. I am changing out my soft tubing with this next cleaning...should I use blitz 2 before changing the tubing or after?

Thanks


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Quick question about blitz part 2. I am changing out my soft tubing with this next cleaning...should I use blitz 2 before changing the tubing or after?
> 
> Thanks


After


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Thanks. Repped and open and shut


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why should Mayhems be required to provide free help here when they have mentioned multiple times there is a dedicated support ticket system on their website? Come on now. This is a Mayhems users club thread, not Mayhems official support thread.


I Opened a ticket days ago and still haven't heard a word from anyone at Mayhem. Atlease here I will actually get an answer.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I Opened a ticket days ago and still haven't heard a word from anyone at Mayhem. Atlease here I will actually get an answer.


That you can/should complain about, and to them


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Another question about blitz 2 as i think more about my rig. Will the blitz 2 react with my kill coil? Should I remove the silver coil?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Another question about blitz 2 as i think more about my rig. Will the blitz 2 react with my kill coil? Should I remove the silver coil?


What coolant are you using? I would recommend going with one that has anti-microbial and anti-corrosive agents built in so there's no need for the silver coil.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Straight distilled. Going to go with Mayhems pastel in a few months after the next clean out. I need new fans too. So for this clean out its just going to be running blitz and putting distilled back in.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Straight distilled. Going to go with Mayhems pastel in a few months after the next clean out. I need new fans too. So for this clean out its just going to be running blitz and putting distilled back in.


I would recommend getting an anti-corrosive agent containing coolant. Distilled water is not going to be non-conductive for long. But if you are going to change the coolant every few months, and have all copper blocks (or similar) it should be okay.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Yea. Fluid is changed every 3 months and everything is copper. Economic reasons dictate not buying "cooling fluids". Distilled is $1. Silver coil was $4. Coolant is like $10-$20 depending on what I get. Change it every 3 to 6 months and that makes no economic sense to me

My original question still stands. Is Blitz 2 safe with a silver coil?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Yea. Fluid is changed every 3 months and everything is copper. Economic reasons dictate not buying "cooling fluids". Distilled is $1. Silver coil was $4. Coolant is like $10-$20 depending on what I get. Change it every 3 to 6 months and that makes no economic sense to me
> 
> My original question still stands. Is Blitz 2 safe with a silver coil?


Should be fine, it is just a surfactant based cleaning solution with some surface tension reducing agents added in. You can also just remove the coil and add it post cleaning, since it does not need anything more like a rinse anyway.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Thanks. I appreciate it. The silver coil is in my res and would be a PITA to remove. Just hope there isnt a chemical reaction









I got the new Mayhems UltraClear tubing to replace my current tubing. I cant wait.


----------



## TheTou

After a good 2 year of running Mayhems Pastel Ice White in my loop with acrylic tubing I flushed the loop yesterday. There was some white residue on the horizontal sections of the acrylic tubing but the CPU and GPU coolers looked very good, no residue in the fins only a small amount at the o-ring that easily came of. However I wasn't able to flush the residue out of the tubing by running tap water through it, but I'm moving to a different case anyway so I didn't bother much with it.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> Yea. Fluid is changed every 3 months and everything is copper. Economic reasons dictate not buying "cooling fluids". Distilled is $1. Silver coil was $4. Coolant is like $10-$20 depending on what I get. Change it every 3 to 6 months and that makes no economic sense to me
> 
> My original question still stands. Is Blitz 2 safe with a silver coil?


That's the thing 10-20 dollars will get you something you don't have to change every 3 months. I ran pastel over a year and only changed it because I wanted to. So 1-2 every 3 months the hassle of draining. You would be better off going pre mixed and it would be around the same with less hassle. I have Mayhems clear I got for 8.99 and I can go 1-2 years with it. And it's peace of mind


----------



## OneFunGenesis

I will go pastel soon. I dont mind the clean out that often. I planned my loop well and have an easy drain and fill port.

Not to mention I get away from the wife for an hour


----------



## Alperen62002

I mix in mx loop ocean blue and uv clear blue with mayhem x1 It looks very cool ;-D


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> I mix in mx loop ocean blue and uv clear blue with mayhem x1 It looks very cool ;-D
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is awesome! Looks great without the UV too.









By the way, I've always loved that pump setup you've got going on, didn't you have a vertical GPU last time I saw it? That color would really pop with all that extra surface


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> That is awesome! Looks great without the UV too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, I've always loved that pump setup you've got going on, didn't you have a vertical GPU last time I saw it? That color would really pop with all that extra surface


Thank you very much for the comment. I appreciate it very much
Yeah the vertical GPU would really do it but there is some issues with the riser cable that I had, I think I bend it too much after I rebuild my loop. There is not alotof place under the GPU in Mastercase. If I had a right angled Riser Cable with 20-25cm length, I wouldn't need to bend the riser cable so sharp.
Now I wait for the release of LI-Heat Right Angled Risers---
But I did it with the vertical GPU last month with only UV clear blue
It looked awesome, but have to wait for the riser cable.


----------



## Barefooter

I just did a "MAX OVER KILL RADIATOR CLEANING - FLUSHING GUIDE" over on my new build log. Check it out


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I just did a "MAX OVER KILL RADIATOR CLEANING - FLUSHING GUIDE" over on my new build log. Check it out


Awesome. A THW10 build. Nice. I'm about to do a TH10A build myself, I'm just gathering my last bits.

I've got myself a similar cheap water filter and pond pump for doing something just like that as part of my initial clean out of my brand new SR-2 MP's. For that pond pump/filter stage my initial thought was to hook up all four of my rads in series like you've done, but I changed my mind because what I don't want to do is flush the dirt out of one and into another where it could potentially get lodged again. So I was going to do one rad at a time instead, so once the dirt has been flushed out, it stays out. Maybe I'm overthinking it.

A question though, so you've got four 560s and two 280s, it seems, and it took you three bottles of Blitz part 1 slightly overdiluted.

How many bottles of Blitz Pt1 do you reckon I'll need for two 480s and two 240s? All Black Ice SR-2 MPs. I have one bottle of Pt1 already, but I'm guessing I'm going to need a second.


----------



## Roadrunners

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> Awesome. A THW10 build. Nice. I'm about to do a TH10A build myself, I'm just gathering my last bits.
> 
> I've got myself a similar cheap water filter and pond pump for doing something just like that as part of my initial clean out of my brand new SR-2 MP's. For that pond pump/filter stage my initial thought was to hook up all four of my rads in series like you've done, but I changed my mind because what I don't want to do is flush the dirt out of one and into another where it could potentially get lodged again. So I was going to do one rad at a time instead, so once the dirt has been flushed out, it stays out. Maybe I'm overthinking it.
> 
> A question though, so you've got four 560s and two 280s, it seems, and it took you three bottles of Blitz part 1 slightly overdiluted.
> 
> How many bottles of Blitz Pt1 do you reckon I'll need for two 480s and two 240s? All Black Ice SR-2 MPs. I have one bottle of Pt1 already, but I'm guessing I'm going to need a second.


You will need two bottles for that amount of rad space. One bottle is just enough for 2 x 480 radiators.


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadrunners*
> 
> You will need two bottles for that amount of rad space. One bottle is just enough for 2 x 480 radiators.


Brilliant. I'll get my order in.

UPDATE: Done


----------



## 414347

That is sweet way of cleaning








I wish I did that with mine when I was assembling my system 4x 480 I did the hard way shaking my arms off


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> I mix in mx loop ocean blue and uv clear blue with mayhem x1 It looks very cool ;-D
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


So there is no pastel in there?


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> Awesome. A THW10 build. Nice. I'm about to do a TH10A build myself, I'm just gathering my last bits.
> 
> I've got myself a similar cheap water filter and pond pump for doing something just like that as part of my initial clean out of my brand new SR-2 MP's. For that pond pump/filter stage my initial thought was to hook up all four of my rads in series like you've done, but I changed my mind because what I don't want to do is flush the dirt out of one and into another where it could potentially get lodged again. So I was going to do one rad at a time instead, so once the dirt has been flushed out, it stays out. Maybe I'm overthinking it.
> 
> A question though, so you've got four 560s and two 280s, it seems, and it took you three bottles of Blitz part 1 slightly overdiluted.
> 
> How many bottles of Blitz Pt1 do you reckon I'll need for two 480s and two 240s? All Black Ice SR-2 MPs. I have one bottle of Pt1 already, but I'm guessing I'm going to need a second.


I had the same thought about putting the radiators in series for Part 2, but they were first individually flushed with hot water for 30 minutes, then sat with the Part 1 over night, then another 5 minute hot water flush. At this point most of all the gunk and particles have been flushed out, plus I have a filter inline so I wasn't too worried about running Part 2 in series. They also got another individual hot water flush after the Part 2. It certainly won't hurt to flush all of your radiators individually for the Part 2, especially if it makes you feel better about it









Yeah you'll need at least two bottles of Part 1 for a pair of 480s and two 240s.


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I had the same thought about putting the radiators in series for Part 2, but they were first individually flushed with hot water for 30 minutes, then sat with the Part 1 over night, then another 5 minute hot water flush. At this point most of all the gunk and particles have been flushed out, plus I have a filter inline so I wasn't too worried about running Part 2 in series. They also got another individual hot water flush after the Part 2. It certainly won't hurt to flush all of your radiators individually for the Part 2, especially if it makes you feel better about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah you'll need at least two bottles of Part 1 for a pair of 480s and two 240s.


Cheers. Best of luck with your build. I have subbed to your build log and will watch with a keen interest. I posted a question for you on that thread, I don't know if you've seen it.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> Cheers. Best of luck with your build. I have subbed to your build log and will watch with a keen interest. I posted a question for you on that thread, I don't know if you've seen it.


Thank you! Yes I replied to you over there on your question.


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So there is no pastel in there?


No there is no pastel inthere.,..


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> No there is no pastel inthere.,..


Wow it looks opaque to me. Maybe it's the lighting and reflection off the tubing but i love the way it looks.


----------



## danbikes

I'm in the process of putting together a new build and was thinking about using some Mayhems pastel pink in the system. I apologise if this has already been answered here but with 1450+ pages I figured it would be easier just to ask it here instead of searching for ages.

Knowing that pink dye stains components the worst, is the same true for the pastel pink? I assume since it's made using pink dye that it will also stain my components over time, is this correct?


----------



## pompss

Ok i flush the old yellow white mayhem extreme and now running blitz part 2.
So far i dont see any dirt in the reservoir so im guessing the radiator was pretty clean.Not sure what caused the coolant to change color.

It's been two day now that i run blitz part 2 and as mayhem said that hwlabs rad need few days to clean,I will wait until monday and flush.

Will flush it with Di water then let DI water run for 30 min and flush and repeat for the second time.

Lets see if this time the coolant keeps his color.Its gonna be my last try.

If anyone have any suggestion just shot.

what should be the optimal ph coming from the loop after flush with DI water?


----------



## pompss

What is that yellow thing???look like and feel like oil.
This is the third time I clean it but it's coming all the time back . Never happen to me not sure where it's coming from . I don't see it inside the block only outside


----------



## pompss




----------



## ckool

algae?


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckool*
> 
> algae?


its some kind of oil coming from the screw








Damn you EK for real ? Unbelievable !!! will contact them tomorrow to sent me a new waterblock


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> its some kind of oil coming from the screw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn you EK for real ? Unbelievable !!! will contact them tomorrow to sent me a new waterblock


Do some research next time instead of just blaming everyone. The O-ring on any block has to keep water based coolants in place, and most are lubricated with oil to help it stick in place too. That is what you are seeing, and is completely normal.


----------



## pompss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Do some research next time instead of just blaming everyone. The O-ring on any block has to keep water based coolants in place, and most are lubricated with oil to help it stick in place too. That is what you are seeing, and is completely normal.


I never saw this in any waterblock and i dont think the screw need to have oil on it.
Maybe i never notice or they add too much oil . not sure


----------



## emsj86

He is saying the o ring


----------



## Iceman2733

Has anyone had issues with the pastel fluid building up in gpu blocks? Weird part is it isn't building in the actually part above the GPU die but in just the area that flows over the memory you can see looks like a pile of the white pastel residue that falls out of the fluid in low flow areas.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Has anyone had issues with the pastel fluid building up in gpu blocks? Weird part is it isn't building in the actually part above the GPU die but in just the area that flows over the memory you can see looks like a pile of the white pastel residue that falls out of the fluid in low flow areas.


Sounds like you are describing capillary action. Can you share a picture to confirm?


----------



## jonathan1107

Guys I'm new to mayhem coolant. I've just filled my loop respecting the 250ml/750ml rule and I find that the green color is barely concentrated. Looks diluted a lot.

What ratio do you guys use?


----------



## tbuttery

Hey Guys,

Just built a PC, with Acrylic tubing and UV Clear Blue/Sky Blue combination....and I am getting some terrible UV reactant fading. Last night it was nice and vibrant, but today after work it ad faded quite a bit. I am using Darkside UV LEDs Rev4.

I have pt in quite a few drops of both dye's to get the color I want, but it seems it keeps fading very fast.

I know Mayhems had issues with this in the past, but is it not all solved?

Thanks for the help!


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> Just built a PC, with Acrylic tubing and UV Clear Blue/Sky Blue combination....and I am getting some terrible UV reactant fading. Last night it was nice and vibrant, but today after work it ad faded quite a bit. I am using Darkside UV LEDs Rev4.
> 
> I have pt in quite a few drops of both dye's to get the color I want, but it seems it keeps fading very fast.
> 
> I know Mayhems had issues with this in the past, but is it not all solved?
> 
> Thanks for the help!


Bump! Anyone seen this? It happened again last night. I put another two drops in the system, and three hours later it had faded back to the original glow.


----------



## VSG

Contact Mayhems is all I can say, no experience with UV dyes here.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Contact Mayhems is all I can say, no experience with UV dyes here.


I messaged the Mayhems fella on here. I have a bad feeling it is the slight remains of vinegar acidity from when I cleaned my radiators. I'm going to get some PH strips this afternoon and test it when I can. Adding some baking soda in will bring it back up if it is. Then I will let that clean and then flush the system.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I just did a "MAX OVER KILL RADIATOR CLEANING - FLUSHING GUIDE" over on my new build log. Check it out


I have a similar setup, I only do one radiator at a time. I don't want the "dirt" going from one rad into another.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> I messaged the Mayhems fella on here. I have a bad feeling it is the slight remains of vinegar acidity from when I cleaned my radiators. I'm going to get some PH strips this afternoon and test it when I can. Adding some baking soda in will bring it back up if it is. Then I will let that clean and then flush the system.


Create a ticket here instead: http://support.mayhems.net/


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I have a similar setup, I only do one radiator at a time. I don't want the "dirt" going from one rad into another.


Yes I considered that, however I do 30 minute hot water flush on each radiator individually. Then soak in Part 1, another individual hot water flush before starting the Part2. Most of the big stuff is already cleaned out by then.

Using a filter with Part 2 on three radiators and then another hot water flush on individual radiators. I'm sure they are about as clean as they can get. You certainly can't go wrong doing them separately.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Create a ticket here instead: http://support.mayhems.net/


I tested my loop when I got home, and unless my eyes are failing me....my loop is right at 7 PH. I am going to take some before and after photos of the fading.


----------



## Craigk19

Does anyone know how to get a shade of green that is close to the atomic green sleeving from mdpc-x so far the best bet I have is getting some mint green and adding blue? But I can only find mint green on Newegg not on mayhems site any help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> Does anyone know how to get a shade of green that is close to the atomic green sleeving from mdpc-x so far the best bet I have is getting some mint green and adding blue? But I can only find mint green on Newegg not on mayhems site any help would be greatly appreciated


Pastel white + UV Laser Green dye + a slight drop of Blue dye. When you get close to the colour water down the blue dye a little to replicate the colour.

Some times you have to water down the blue dye say 1 drop to 5 to 10 mls of water to achieve specific colours as the blue dye is extremely strong. If using non stain blue dyes then use 20 to 30mls of water as its even stronger. If using mayhems tubing it has a slight bluish tint so use less dye dye as it will bring the blue colour ever out ever so slightly, if you glass what you see out of the system is what you get in the system and if using PTEG a little more blue is required and if using decent acrylic a little more is needed. Lights also effect the look.

If you have any direct questions for us please use our support system were we can help you better. Cannot link else ill get more warnings hence we do not use this site much any more. We do not respond to PM's on here as questions should be asked in public for all the see and help.

Thank you


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pastel white + UV Laser Green dye + a slight drop of Blue dye. When you get close to the colour water down the blue dye a little to replicate the colour.
> 
> Some times you have to water down the blue dye say 1 drop to 5 to 10 mls of water to achieve specific colours as the blue dye is extremely strong. If using non stain blue dyes then use 20 to 30mls of water as its even stronger. If using mayhems tubing it has a slight bluish tint so use less dye dye as it will bring the blue colour ever out ever so slightly, if you glass what you see out of the system is what you get in the system and if using PTEG a little more blue is required and if using decent acrylic a little more is needed. Lights also effect the look.
> 
> If you have any direct questions for us please use our support system were we can help you better. Cannot link else ill get more warnings hence we do not use this site much any more. We do not respond to PM's on here as questions should be asked in public for all the see and help.
> 
> Thank you


Hey There,

Submitted a support ticket on Mayhems.net, so we will see what you all say. But, my dye did indeed fade once again. Tonight and this weekend I am going to completely clean out the water loop, and re-do to liquid.

My PH was still at 7.5, so I am leaning towards the fact that maybe the UV LEDs are breaking down the reactive dye.....not sure.


----------



## Iceman2733

I want to double check on something Blitz part 2 is ok to use with EK plated blocks? I have seen people saying it is, but on Performance-PCS specifications it says to not use on plated blocks I am going to clean my PC Monday and want to make sure before I do it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Blitz pt 2 is safe on plated blocks, it's pt1 that would eat away the plating.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> I want to double check on something Blitz part 2 is ok to use with EK plated blocks? I have seen people saying it is, but on Performance-PCS specifications it says to not use on plated blocks I am going to clean my PC Monday and want to make sure before I do it.


Which UV Leds are you using as we have tested some cheap ass Chinese ones in the past and they are as much use a a chocolate fireguard. The best leds by far as the Darkside ones how ever for the best spread in the UV spectrum Cold Cathodes (CCFL) are the best.


----------



## mastabog

An Alphacool/Aquatuning (one and the same?) rep claims that Mayhems coolants void warranty of "a lot of brands" and "attack any kind of plastic (acetal, plexi, pvc, ...)":

http://www.overclock.net/t/1624192/alphacool-vpp755-noise/10#post_25875630

They didn't mention whether it's the color or clear coolants.

I'd be grateful if someone from Mayhems could comment. I've been using only Mayhems X1 clear and EKWB Evo clear, which I undersatnd is made by Mayhems (right?)


----------



## Blackops_2

Just got my 3770k & 780 SLi tubed up and am testing for leaks with distilled. Still some X1 blood red in there of course. Will it stain the new tubing in 24hrs? If it passes i was going to drain, hit it with Blitz part 2, then flush, and fill up with pastel before the weeks out.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastabog*
> 
> An Alphacool/Aquatuning (one and the same?) rep claims that Mayhems coolants void warranty of "a lot of brands" and "attack any kind of plastic (acetal, plexi, pvc, ...)":
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1624192/alphacool-vpp755-noise/10#post_25875630
> 
> They didn't mention whether it's the color or clear coolants.
> 
> I'd be grateful if someone from Mayhems could comment. I've been using only Mayhems X1 clear and EKWB Evo clear, which I undersatnd is made by Mayhems (right?)


Ill contact them over this as this is a *misleading* allegation. We feel our coolants are one of the best in the market place and do not compromise tubing, rubber, plastic or any seals with any liquid cooling components. We have fully tested this in lab environments and real life situations past and beyond any testing they may do (this is my assumption! not fact). We test from -60c up to 100c+ (*Mayhems Xt-1 Nuke is tested beyond 350c+) unlike many other companies. We all so check for plastic degradation and component failure and have done for many years. Unlike any other company in this market place mayhems do not use pre-bought car coolants or base coolants, they are all made in house from the ground up giving us full control over the manufacturing of the fluids.

Our testing has proven time and time again when certain companies OEM controls may be substandard and we have picked up issues in the past and contacted companies directly over any issues found due to our extensive and some times over the top testing. We do this because we care. If an AT rep is saying this then why are they selling our products on there site which they buy directly from us. !

_*XT-1 Nuke was independently tested for its limits in a pressure environment to 390c, This is way beyond any liquid cooling equipment currently on the market for consumer PC's._


----------



## mastabog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ill contact them over this as this is a *misleading* allegation. We feel our coolants are one of the best in the market place and do not compromise tubing, rubber, plastic or any seals with any liquid cooling components. We have fully tested this in lab environments and real life situations past and beyond any testing they may do (this is my assumption! not fact). We test from -60c up to 100c+ (*Mayhems Xt-1 Nuke is tested beyond 350c+) unlike many other companies. We all so check for plastic degradation and component failure and have done for many years. Unlike any other company in this market place mayhems do not use pre-bought car coolants or base coolants, they are all made in house from the ground up giving us full control over the manufacturing of the fluids.
> 
> Our testing has proven time and time again when certain companies OEM controls may be substandard and we have picked up issues in the past and contacted companies directly over any issues found due to our extensive and some times over the top testing. We do this because we care. If an AT rep is saying this then why are they selling our products on there site which they buy directly from us. !
> 
> *XT-1 Nuke was independently tested for its limits in a pressure environment to 390c, This is way beyond any liquid cooling equipment currently on the market for consumer PC's.


There is apparently a warning on the Aquatuning website regarding Mayhems products, as per this report (not sure if they took it down but it's a shame, in lack of a better word, if it was there all this time until now).

This report also states that Alphacool/Aquatuning refused warranty because he/she used Mayhems biocide.

I've always used your products with confidence given your reputation among enthusiasts, and was very intrigued by the allegations Aquatuning/Alphacool made. If they were true then there should have been a plethora of complaints so far. I also asked them which brands are those that they claim consider warranty void if Mayhems coolants are used but so far they haven't responded.


----------



## Mayhem

I have contacted AT-Edward via skype and will await a response (none as of yet), just seems to be a bit of overzealous marketing and i don't think they mean mislead from it.


----------



## mastabog

Here's what Aquatuning says on their website for all Mayhems products, e.g. the X1 premix clear (click on description):

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/water-additives/ready-to-use/9905/mayhems-pre-mix-x1-clear-1000ml

Quote:


> Warning: Following manufacturers will refuse the warranty for your products if they are beeing operated with the fluids of Mayhems: Alphacool, Koolance, Phobya and Aqua Computer.
> 
> *Technical specifications:*
> Colour: Clear (transparent)
> Content: 1000ml
> 
> *Extent of delivery:*
> 1x Mayhems Pre-Mix X1 Clear 1000ml
> 
> *Notice:*
> 
> *Attention: The manufacturer Mayhems advises that Mayhems fluids, especially the Aurora line of products, have been manufactured and distributed solely for show and modding purposes. These should not be utilized in the system for more than 14 days.*
> 
> We would also like to advise that Mayhems fluids can damage watercooling products, and using Mayhems fluids can thereby void the warranties offered by the following manufacturers: Koolance, Phobya, Alphacool, Aqua Computer, Watercool.
> 
> Damages such as: clogging, corrosion of aluminium radiators, deterioration of glued containers, etc., are a consequence of the use of Mayhems, but will not be reimbursed by Mayhems. Use is therefore at one's own risk.
> 
> https://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems-aurora-guide/
> https://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems-coolant-guide/


This is not ok ... also, they already refused warranty (see here) for someone who used Mayhems biocide (with distilled), which is *not* ok!

Also, the 2nd link from Mayhems quoted above recommends changing the X1 premix every 9-12 months, in contrast with the 14 days warning given by Aquatuning.


----------



## Leonko

i really would like to know how the hell they would know i used any of named coolant?


----------



## Blackops_2

Nvm found it.


----------



## BrjSan

Am not sure whats wrong with them .... my build will be almost 2 years old with Mayhems pastel, EK parts with primochill tubing ....

*Not a single issue or problem or any temp rise at all* including long gaming hours ....


----------



## mixsetup

Hi there have a question.
I have a EK - XRES D5/reservoir and have Mayhem's Aurora Tharsis Red in the loop.

Now it has only been in there for a day and now I have noticed some white spots in the reservoir.

Any ideas what to do?
Ditch it and drain and flush the loop?
Add more Demineralised Water?
Just replace with Demineralised Water?

Thanks


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixsetup*
> 
> Hi there have a question.
> I have a EK - XRES D5/reservoir and have Mayhem's Aurora Tharsis Red in the loop.
> 
> Now it has only been in there for a day and now I have noticed some white spots in the reservoir.
> 
> Any ideas what to do?
> Ditch it and drain and flush the loop?
> Add more Demineralised Water?
> Just replace with Demineralised Water?
> 
> Thanks


Can you post pics so we can see.?
What measures did you take to clean the system before using the coolants?


----------



## mixsetup

Hi there here is a picture and a video.
Sorry they were taken on my phone.
You can see the white spots though and they aren't grime on the outside as I tried to rub them off and yesterday before I filled the loop and just afterwards it was all clean.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3qmtuhguwzt59q7/spots2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/oqzo34amgx5ru6s/spots.mp4?dl=0


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixsetup*
> 
> Hi there here is a picture and a video.
> Sorry they were taken on my phone.
> You can see the white spots though and they aren't grime on the outside as I tried to rub them off and yesterday befor I filled the loop and just afterwards it was all clean.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/3qmtuhguwzt59q7/spots2.jpg?dl=0
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/oqzo34amgx5ru6s/spots.mp4?dl=0


Oky had a look that cannot be aurora due to the spots are very large and aurora is down to less them 0.5 micron. How did you clean the system (pre commission) before use and is the system new.


----------



## mixsetup

System is all new and I leak tested for a day with just the Demineralised Water.
Some older hardware like the pump/res as have been lazy and it has been sitting in boxes for nearly two years like the FX9590 it is cooling.


----------



## Bluemustang

Since you seem to be back for now Mayhem, i'll try once more.

Mayhems bottle of the pastel extreme states dilution levels of 2 to 3.5 liters (and says to use the lower dilution if you want brighter whites). *I'd like to know if there is any benefit in regards to longevity AND effectiveness of the fluid in areas such as corrosion resistance and anti-fungals when using lower dilution levels* (in my case i'd either use the whole bottle in 1.5 liters, or split it in half to use twice, so 3 liters dilution out of one bottle)?

This is a question i'd prefer a more direct answer from you than through customer service. Thanks.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixsetup*
> 
> System is all new and I leak tested for a day with just the Demineralised Water.
> Some older hardware like the pump/res as have been lazy and it has been sitting in boxes for nearly two years like the FX9590 it is cooling.


Fire me an email [email protected] with your full name address, telephone number + point to you post and user name and the amounts of coolants needed and ill help you out.

Mick


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Since you seem to be back for now Mayhem, i'll try once more.
> 
> Mayhems bottle of the pastel extreme states dilution levels of 2 to 3.5 liters (and says to use the lower dilution if you want brighter whites). *I'd like to know if there is any benefit in regards to longevity AND effectiveness of the fluid in areas such as corrosion resistance and anti-fungals when using lower dilution levels* (in my case i'd either use the whole bottle in 1.5 liters, or split it in half to use twice, so 3 liters dilution out of one bottle)?
> 
> This is a question i'd prefer a more direct answer from you than through customer service. Thanks.


Hello there Bluemustang, there are benefits using a lower concentration reference biocides and inhibitors. How ever the longevity of the coolants will only change if you go to a minimum mix ratio of 10% to 15% coolants to water and this will increase the coolant life by approximately 6 months to 1 year depending on conditions it is used in.

So in your case in question yes you will see an improvement over normal dilution ratios and better protection all around.

Only on here dealing with other matters, as all ways for the fastest response it best to approch my support staff who are fully trained and know there product lines over at [email protected] They are there to give you one to one support and not sell you some thing unlike some PR guys on here.


----------



## mixsetup

Will do thanks.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hello there Bluemustang, there are benefits using a lower concentration reference biocides and inhibitors. How ever the longevity of the coolants will only change if you go to a minimum mix ratio of 10% to 15% coolants to water and this will increase the coolant life by approximately 6 months to 1 year depending on conditions it is used in.
> 
> Only on here dealing with other matters, as all ways for the fastest response it best to approch my support staff who are fully trained and know there product lines over at [email protected] They are there to give you one to one support and not sell you some thing unlike some PR guys on here.


Thanks for answering.

I'm confused. The bottle of pastel extreme white i bought is 100ml that says a max dilution of 3.5L or 3500ml. That's only 2.8%. Even diluting to only 2L is only 5%.


----------



## Mayhem

Bluemustang that is correct the ratios you have said, as said above Btw just added to it as i was on the phone at the time of typing.

The most effective ratio is between 5% to 10% how ever 2.5 will give the least protection but this is why its cheaper than say normal pastel as you take a hit on how long it lasts.

If the bottle was larger we could do what we do with the XT-1 range of concentrates and the X1 range of concentrates and that is put a full ratio list on the bottle, how ever there is very little room to do this. If we decreased the size of the wording it would be near impossible for you guys to read, but ill take this into account now and adjust our website information to give a clearer idea and understanding of mix ratios on Pastel extreme and the benefits by using a higher concentration ratio (5 to 10% and above). Hope this helps answering your question and thank you for pointing out some thing we can improve upon.


----------



## Bluemustang

That does help thanks. I will just use the whole bottle in my 1.5L loop.

One additional thing this brings to mind though (that isnt stated) is longevity. The regular pastel states 2 years, will this last 2 years as well at 5% (in my case itll be about 6.6% in 1.5L loop)?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> That does help thanks. I will just use the whole bottle in my 1.5L loop.
> 
> One additional thing this brings to mind though (that isnt stated) is longevity. The regular pastel states 2 years, will this last 2 years as well at 5% (in my case itll be about 6.6% in 1.5L loop)?


The new versions of Pastel (new bottles) time has increased from 2 years to 3 years, we changed the formula on the new pastels about 9 months ago, ill check my site and see if this information has been updated. Sorry about this i seem to spend more time deving and forgetting to update the corresponding information on our site. Pastel extreme is based on a totally diffrent formulae with stronger biocides and stronger inhibitors yet not as much hence were able to do 100ml bottles of it, we cannot do the same on normal Pastel hence the minimum size is 250ml (concentrate) or 1 Ltr (pre Mixed ready to go). It may seem a little confusing when looking at all our diffrent products and choosing the best options for a build how ever we try to give as many options as possible to help diffrent people in diffrent situations.

The Pastel Extreme will be getting a kick up the ass soon once i have finished playing.

I am working on a totally new product pastel that will be cheaper to produce and make how ever this will take a long time to complete and develop and test. Were aiming to get the price of pastel down to the same price as X1 or as close to X1 price.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

You're awesome Mick. Keep doing what you do best!


----------



## Mayhem

As of the claims from Alphacooling and after talking with AT-Eduard on skype ref ->http://www.overclock.net/t/1624192/alphacool-vpp755-noise/0_50

Quote -AT-Eduard "We are selling Mayhem too" -

*In respect to the claims above we find our self's reluctantly unable to supply Aquatuning with any more products. Our Policy has always been to support our Customers, OEMs and Distributors to the utmost degree.

Mayhems Solutions Ltd pride our self's on the service we give our consumers and if our distributors cannot offer the degree of service direct though us then we are reluctant to supply them.

If any of our users have any issues we have and will always be there to help in the best way we can. We will honour any claims with our "if you are not happy we will replace" warranty no matter were in the world you live.

Your Sincerely.

Michael Wood
Director / Chemical Engineer @ Mayhems.*.


----------



## Blackops_2

So if i've had pastel green, the original sitting in the bottles for about 6 years would it still be okay to use?


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Mayhems Solutions Ltd pride our self's on the service we give our consumers and if our distributors cannot offer the degree of service direct though us then we are reluctant to supply them.


That is something other companies (small or big) should consider as well.

Not caring enough who you redistribute your product to as far is resells goes just to make a quick $ at first glance seems OK, but on the long run if you care about your product and company's reputation it's imperative to know that they will support your product as good as the manufacturer itself and if they have history of not honoring that policy..well as harsh that might sounds but it's not worth the initial quick $ and the potential headache.

Good job Mick


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So if i've had pastel green, the original sitting in the bottles for about 6 years would it still be okay to use?


I would say no, since I think the unused shelf life was 3 years


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So if i've had pastel green, the original sitting in the bottles for about 6 years would it still be okay to use?


You might be pushing your luck there, It would have had to been stored at 20 to 25c for the full time unopened and you might get lucky but if not id throw it in the bin. It would have to be in the new white bottles as well to strop UV light getting to it.


----------



## Blackops_2

I see, figured it wouldn't be good to go. Though i did run X1 forever with that AMD rig, like 4-5 years i think. I still have to run Blitz #2 and flush all week so i got some time. I guess i'll just order some concentrate or pre-mixed.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> As of the claims from Alphacooling and after talking with AT-Eduard on skype ref ->http://www.overclock.net/t/1624192/alphacool-vpp755-noise/0_50
> 
> Quote -AT-Eduard "We are selling Mayhem too" -
> 
> *In respect to the claims above we find our self's reluctantly unable to supply Aquatuning with any more products. Our Policy has always been to support our Customers, OEMs and Distributors to the utmost degree.
> 
> Mayhems Solutions Ltd pride our self's on the service we give our consumers and if our distributors cannot offer the degree of service direct though us then we are reluctant to supply them.
> 
> If any of our users have any issues we have and will always be there to help in the best way we can. We will honour any claims with our "if you are not happy we will replace" warranty no matter were in the world you live.
> 
> Your Sincerely.
> 
> Michael Wood
> Director / Chemical Engineer @ Mayhems.*.


This is an awesome response and one worthy of noting for other businesses.


----------



## DarthBaggins

AT's getting blasted by users and other manufacturers/stores on their statements against Mayhems (myself included). This is what they get for going to a cheap knock off trying to save a buck compared to the reliable VP655. Also I've only had one pump die on me while using X1 and the pump was a DDC close to 7 to 8 years old so fluid wasn't the issue, age was.


----------



## Blackops_2

Does the part 2 blitz being too foamy matter? Do i need to let it settle? Or just run it? I've got almost the entire liter in there.


----------



## charliebrown

Wow I have always used mayhem coolant and dyes recently I used thermaltake new coolant to try out that stuff broke down in 3 months of use never again used mayhem Pastel red 2 years no issues with alphacool components


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Does the part 2 blitz being too foamy matter? Do i need to let it settle? Or just run it? I've got almost the entire liter in there.


From my experience, it will be very foamy. No worries, just run it. It's a cleaner and will foam a bit.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> As of the claims from Alphacooling and after talking with AT-Eduard on skype ref ->http://www.overclock.net/t/1624192/alphacool-vpp755-noise/0_50
> 
> Quote -AT-Eduard "We are selling Mayhem too" -
> 
> *In respect to the claims above we find our self's reluctantly unable to supply Aquatuning with any more products. Our Policy has always been to support our Customers, OEMs and Distributors to the utmost degree.
> 
> Mayhems Solutions Ltd pride our self's on the service we give our consumers and if our distributors cannot offer the degree of service direct though us then we are reluctant to supply them.
> 
> If any of our users have any issues we have and will always be there to help in the best way we can. We will honour any claims with our "if you are not happy we will replace" warranty no matter were in the world you live.
> 
> Your Sincerely.
> 
> Michael Wood
> Director / Chemical Engineer @ Mayhems.*.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT-Eduard*
> 
> @ mastabog
> Aqua Computer, Watercool, Phobya and Alphacool. That are the brands you will lose your warrenty if you are using Mayhem fluid. I have no idea if they are making any differences between the liquids from mayhem. And it is not our affair to care about that point. We are selling Mayhem too. We got that info from the brands, and we wrote it in our shop. Thats all.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Mayhems coolants are the best in the industry. Not honoring the warranty because the customer used mayhems is ridiculous and tells me these companies don't stand by their products and don't support their customers. I already won't buy koolance products for this reason, guess I won't be buying anything from these companies unless they change this policy. Too bad, aqua computer and watercool have some beautiful blocks.


We feel that we are not portrayed correctly here, so we'd like to clarify:

Watercool has *no principal problem* with the use of Mayhems products. You will *not lose your warranty* when using Mayhems products appropriately. You might void your warranty by improper use. Hence, we strongly suggest to fully *read and follow Mayhems' own product guides*.

There is one exception, though: if you encountered a problem (e.g. a clogged water block, or leaking because of overpressure because of clogged block or similar) while using one of the *Mayhems Show products* (such as Aurora, but also other current or future products that contain floating particles), and this problem can be linked to the usage of this fluid, *we exclude this single scenario from our warranty*. In every other case, we fully stand behind our products and are proud to offer one of the best and most welcoming customer supports of the industry.

I hope I could clarify this issue from our viewpoint. Please feel free to ask here or contact me directly if there is something unclear.

We understand the trouble between Mayhems and Aquatuning, but we do not want any part in it.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFunGenesis*
> 
> From my experience, it will be very foamy. No worries, just run it. It's a cleaner and will foam a bit.


Ty, it eventually settled. Will be changing it out or at least draining and flushing some tonight. I wont have to refill it as i have to reload for a match this weekend, plus waiting on the Pastel to get here. How many times did you flush?


----------



## OneFunGenesis

I ran the cleaner for quite a while. I did three flushes after that running the distilled for an hour or so each. I ran distilled flushes until it stopped foaming completely. I had PH test strips but didnt really need them as the water told all


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> As of the claims from Alphacooling and after talking with AT-Eduard on skype ref ->http://www.overclock.net/t/1624192/alphacool-vpp755-noise/0_50
> 
> Quote -AT-Eduard "We are selling Mayhem too" -
> 
> *In respect to the claims above we find our self's reluctantly unable to supply Aquatuning with any more products. Our Policy has always been to support our Customers, OEMs and Distributors to the utmost degree.
> 
> Mayhems Solutions Ltd pride our self's on the service we give our consumers and if our distributors cannot offer the degree of service direct though us then we are reluctant to supply them.
> 
> If any of our users have any issues we have and will always be there to help in the best way we can. We will honour any claims with our "if you are not happy we will replace" warranty no matter were in the world you live.
> 
> Your Sincerely.
> 
> Michael Wood
> Director / Chemical Engineer @ Mayhems.*.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AT-Eduard*
> 
> @ mastabog
> Aqua Computer, Watercool, Phobya and Alphacool. That are the brands you will lose your warrenty if you are using Mayhem fluid. I have no idea if they are making any differences between the liquids from mayhem. And it is not our affair to care about that point. We are selling Mayhem too. We got that info from the brands, and we wrote it in our shop. Thats all.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Mayhems coolants are the best in the industry. Not honoring the warranty because the customer used mayhems is ridiculous and tells me these companies don't stand by their products and don't support their customers. I already won't buy koolance products for this reason, guess I won't be buying anything from these companies unless they change this policy. Too bad, aqua computer and watercool have some beautiful blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We feel that we are not portrayed correctly here, so we'd like to clarify:
> 
> Watercool has *no principal problem* with the use of Mayhems products. You will *not lose your warranty* when using Mayhems products appropriately. You might void your warranty by improper use. Hence, we strongly suggest to fully *read and follow Mayhems' own product guides*.
> 
> There is one exception, though: if you encountered a problem (e.g. a clogged water block, or leaking because of overpressure because of clogged block or similar) while using one of the *Mayhems Show products* (such as Aurora, but also other current or future products that contain floating particles), and this problem can be linked to the usage of this fluid, *we exclude this single scenario from our warranty*. In every other case, we fully stand behind our products and are proud to offer one of the best and most welcoming customer supports of the industry.
> 
> I hope I could clarify this issue from our viewpoint. Please feel free to ask here or contact me directly if there is something unclear.
> 
> We understand the trouble between Mayhems and Aquatuning, but we do not want any part in it.
Click to expand...

This is reasonable and makes sense. Thanks for the clarification.







Hopefully the rest of them will do the same.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> As of the claims from Alphacooling and after talking with AT-Eduard on skype ref ->http://www.overclock.net/t/1624192/alphacool-vpp755-noise/0_50
> 
> Quote -AT-Eduard "We are selling Mayhem too" -
> 
> *In respect to the claims above we find our self's reluctantly unable to supply Aquatuning with any more products. Our Policy has always been to support our Customers, OEMs and Distributors to the utmost degree.
> 
> Mayhems Solutions Ltd pride our self's on the service we give our consumers and if our distributors cannot offer the degree of service direct though us then we are reluctant to supply them.
> 
> If any of our users have any issues we have and will always be there to help in the best way we can. We will honour any claims with our "if you are not happy we will replace" warranty no matter were in the world you live.
> 
> Your Sincerely.
> 
> Michael Wood
> Director / Chemical Engineer @ Mayhems.*.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AT-Eduard*
> 
> @ mastabog
> Aqua Computer, Watercool, Phobya and Alphacool. That are the brands you will lose your warrenty if you are using Mayhem fluid. I have no idea if they are making any differences between the liquids from mayhem. And it is not our affair to care about that point. We are selling Mayhem too. We got that info from the brands, and we wrote it in our shop. Thats all.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Mayhems coolants are the best in the industry. Not honoring the warranty because the customer used mayhems is ridiculous and tells me these companies don't stand by their products and don't support their customers. I already won't buy koolance products for this reason, guess I won't be buying anything from these companies unless they change this policy. Too bad, aqua computer and watercool have some beautiful blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> We feel that we are not portrayed correctly here, so we'd like to clarify:
> 
> Watercool has *no principal problem* with the use of Mayhems products. You will *not lose your warranty* when using Mayhems products appropriately. You might void your warranty by improper use. Hence, we strongly suggest to fully *read and follow Mayhems' own product guides*.
> 
> There is one exception, though: if you encountered a problem (e.g. a clogged water block, or leaking because of overpressure because of clogged block or similar) while using one of the *Mayhems Show products* (such as Aurora, but also other current or future products that contain floating particles), and this problem can be linked to the usage of this fluid, *we exclude this single scenario from our warranty*. In every other case, we fully stand behind our products and are proud to offer one of the best and most welcoming customer supports of the industry.
> 
> I hope I could clarify this issue from our viewpoint. Please feel free to ask here or contact me directly if there is something unclear.
> 
> We understand the trouble between Mayhems and Aquatuning, but we do not want any part in it.
Click to expand...

Thank you for clarifying this and we appreciate your support to the users of the water cooling community as a whole.


----------



## Kriant

Quick question - I plan on using same rad rez and pumps, but different tubing and blocks - I plan on cleaning rads out with Mayhems Blitz Part 1, do I need to use Part 2 afterwards?


----------



## Mayhem

Yes you must use part 2.

Part 1 is a acid cleaner for rads.
Part 2 is a acid neutralizer and PH balance plus other things.

If you do not want to buy part two in the kit you can use bicab how ever part 2 also lifts crap out of the system.


----------



## Kriant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes you must use part 2.
> 
> Part 1 is a acid cleaner for rads.
> Part 2 is a acid neutralizer and PH balance plus other things.
> 
> If you do not want to buy part two in the kit you can use bicab how ever part 2 also lifts crap out of the system.


Thanks for your reply! I already got your advance kit







just being a bit lazy. I'll run everything properly then, per instruction.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kriant*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes you must use part 2.
> 
> Part 1 is a acid cleaner for rads.
> Part 2 is a acid neutralizer and PH balance plus other things.
> 
> If you do not want to buy part two in the kit you can use bicab how ever part 2 also lifts crap out of the system.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your reply! I already got your advance kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just being a bit lazy. I'll run everything properly then, per instruction.
Click to expand...

When it comes to the blitz kit its all ways best to follow the instructions to the letter.


----------



## Recr3ational

Guys I've used a whole dropper bottle to try and make like a royal blue, any advice or should I buy another bottle and keep adding?



Trying to reach the same colour as the bottle top


----------



## Blackops_2

Loving the new pastel UV green


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Guys I've used a whole dropper bottle to try and make like a royal blue, any advice or should I buy another bottle and keep adding?
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to reach the same colour as the bottle top


you need dark blue dye


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> you need dark blue dye


I did use dark blue dye. The whole bottle


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Guys I've used a whole dropper bottle to try and make like a royal blue, any advice or should I buy another bottle and keep adding?
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to reach the same colour as the bottle top


I needed two bottles of non stain blue to get the color in my av. This was with about 2.25 litres of fluid. I will say after one bottle my pastel mix was a lot darker than yours.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> I needed two bottles of non stain blue to get the color in my av. This was with about 2.25 litres of fluid. I will say after one bottle my pastel mix was a lot darker than yours.


Awesome, ill pick another one up
Thanks


----------



## meson1

Hi.

I see people talking about flushing rads out with a Bicarbonate of Soda mix to neutralize the acid after having used Blitz Pt1

Question: What ratio of Bicarbonate of Soda should I use please? i.e. How much bicarb should I add per litre of water?


----------



## charliebrown

jesus water cooling is so addicting


----------



## haritz85

Hi,

Below some pics of my PETG watercooled loop with Mayhems concentrate 100ml blood red.






Sorry for the quality of the pictures.

Regards.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> Hi.
> 
> I see people talking about flushing rads out with a Bicarbonate of Soda mix to neutralize the acid after having used Blitz Pt1
> 
> Question: What ratio of Bicarbonate of Soda should I use please? i.e. How much bicarb should I add per litre of water?


If you are going to use Blitz part 1, I would recommend using Blitz part 2 to finish the job properly.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> jesus water cooling is so addicting


And expensive







i eat ramen more than i care to admit lol

So for mayhems or anyone that has used pastel. I have a bit of what looks like white fluid or sediment in the run from the CPU block to res. Can't see it once the comp is on and liquid is flowing. It appears to flow once i start the loop so i don't think it's the tubing. And it's only in that particular run as far as i can tell.

I ran part 2 for 24hrs and flushed with about 3 gallons of distilled, prior to this the rads had X1 Blood Red in it for about 3 years. I flushed the loop and leak tested with distilled. Then once that was complete ran Part 2. Then flushed again for 12 hours, then several one time flushes. To which i couldn't get every last bit of distilled out, even pushing most of it with a datavac through the loop. Also notice a bit of a clearer green layer at the top of my res. Is this that bit of distilled that refuses to mix with the premix pastel? I figure i'll run it until i see a noticeable change, if there is any change at all, and then refill with pastel.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Guys I've used a whole dropper bottle to try and make like a royal blue, any advice or should I buy another bottle and keep adding?
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to reach the same colour as the bottle top
> 
> 
> 
> I needed two bottles of non stain blue to get the color in my av. This was with about 2.25 litres of fluid. I will say after one bottle my pastel mix was a lot darker than yours.
Click to expand...

Non stain blue dye would make a deep blue colour (royal blue) you are after.

Mick


----------



## Blackops_2

What i was referencing in my last post. Any idea what this is? Blurry pic i know but you can still see the white line i'm referencing.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> What i was referencing in my last post. Any idea what this is? Blurry pic i know but you can still see the white line i'm referencing.


I've heard its normal for pastel to do this, especially if it picks it up when the loop is flowing. Ive seen a couple videos of entire loops that have settled after sitting for extended periods of time and reblending in seconds once powered on


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> What i was referencing in my last post. Any idea what this is? Blurry pic i know but you can still see the white line i'm referencing.


Its normal when pastel is left a while its the nano particles doing what they do due to gravity You can exasperate this problem in several ways and thats via none cleaning of rads, to using say the blitz kits and not fully removing part 2 of the cleaner. Its fine and wont effect the fluid.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its normal when pastel is left a while its the nano particles doing what they do due to gravity You can exasperate this problem in several ways and thats via none cleaning of rads, to using say the blitz kits and not fully removing part 2 of the cleaner. Its fine and wont effect the fluid.


Gotcha thanks for the response. I turn it off when I'm done almost every day. Probably could leave it running all the time but I feel like I'd be dusting too much.

I figured if I did have any issues related to blitz part 2 still being in there or that little bit of distilled I'd just drain and refill. Over saturate it with pastel I guess.


----------



## kevindd992002

So why is it really that for the Mayhems X1 100ml concentrate needs 100ml to make 1L of liquid while the 250ml concentrate needs 125ml to make 1L of liquid?


----------



## Mayhem

On the concentrate 250ml Mayhems X1 there is a chart with ratios to adjust X1 to you very own tastes.


----------



## kevindd992002

I don't see it in the website? And still what is tge answer to my original question? Why the difference?


----------



## Kriant

So, a small update on my first time use of Mayhems Blitz Pro.

Pros: I managed to use 1 bottle to clean EX360 and Phobya Nova, with leftovers used for RX360 (not a full run, but whatever, I'll buy an extra bottle later). Keep in mind that these where used rads, which I cleaned prior. Well, poured that liquid in. Waited for roughly 10.5 hours (had to go to work, and didn't want to leave the mix in more than 12h, as per instruction). The mix came out very VERY blue. Cleaned the smaller rads with water 3 times, per instruction, Phobya got cleaned once - had to run to work, will do 2 more water runs later today, before moving to part 2.

Downside - stripped plating from my seal caps, and stripped plating from my 2 QDC's on Phobya (yes, dumb me, didn't took these off). Oh well, lesson learned.

Side note: when taking my loop apart I found some green crumby buildup on QDC's and compression fittings. The texture is kinda somewhat like rust but softer, and if I q-tip the fittings - the q-tip ends up being green. Last time I took my build apart - I a LOT of that stuff on my pumps, Back then I thought it was plastecizer - I cleaned it out and cleaned the fittings out - this time around pumps are pristine and overall there wasn't a lot of it, but I still.


----------



## 414347

Green (light green) would indicate first stage of algae, than it tends to turns towards brown, plasticizer has more of a dark green from get-go.

I didn't go back to see if you mentioned liquid you used prior, if you even posted somewhere earlier but I'm curious what have you been using









Site note. I've been using Distilled with Mayhems Biocide Extreme for probably over 2 years and I must say, I am very impressed how that anti-algae product works, my system is absolutely clean from any microorganisms


----------



## Kriant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Green (light green) would indicate first stage of algae, than it tends to turns towards brown, plasticizer has more of a dark green from get-go.
> 
> I didn't go back to see if you mentioned liquid you used prior, if you even posted somewhere earlier but I'm curious what have you been using
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Site note. I've been using Distilled with Mayhems Biocide Extreme for probably over 2 years and I must say, I am very impressed how that anti-algae product works, my system is absolutely clean from any microorganisms


I was using EK Koolant Clear. The substance itself is dark green. I am more inclined to believe that it's plasticizer mixed with oxide or smthing to that effect. Algae is usually mushy (at least in ponds/swamps/etc), this one is def. not.


----------



## kevindd992002

When "topping off" a loop with distilled water, does it not "dilute" the pre-mixed liquid coolant?


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> When "topping off" a loop with distilled water, does it not "dilute" the pre-mixed liquid coolant?


Are you asking in general...I would think there will be some dilution but depending on color and I guess liquid type in your system


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Are you asking in general...I would think there will be some dilution but depending on color and I guess liquid type in your system


In general, yes, as I'm a newbie in watercooling. If I use a clear Mayhem X1 concentrate to come up with a mixed coolant, what happens if the liquid gets more diluted after topping it off? Won't it have lesser anti-bacterial properties or won't it degrade the overall performance of the liquid or something?


----------



## Nautilus

Tomorrow I will use Mayhems Blitz Pro on my newly purchased Black Ice Nemesis GTS 420 and 280 rads.

I don't have any caps for inlets and outlets, is it OK if I leave them open somewhere safe? Is there any other reason (aside from danger of exposure to hazardous chemicals) to put caps on the rads after filling them up with part1?


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> In general, yes, as I'm a newbie in watercooling. If I use a clear Mayhem X1 concentrate to come up with a mixed coolant, what happens if the liquid gets more diluted after topping it off? Won't it have lesser anti-bacterial properties or won't it degrade the overall performance of the liquid or something?


I think if you topping of with only distilled, it will weaken some of the antibacterial properties, but by how much I'm not sure and whether will have any negative effect I think it also depends on how often you will be changing the liquid.

Tbh. If you say...using Mayhems X1 and need to top off I would try to use the same liquid to give you the peace of mind, rather than adding only distilled.


----------



## Kriant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nautilus*
> 
> Tomorrow I will use Mayhems Blitz Pro on my newly purchased Black Ice Nemesis GTS 420 and 280 rads.
> 
> I don't have any caps for inlets and outlets, is it OK if I leave them open somewhere safe? Is there any other reason (aside from danger of exposure to hazardous chemicals) to put caps on the rads after filling them up with part1?


I would think evaporation at the very least? I mean, I wouldn't want to breath acid vapors, however deluded they are.


----------



## Nautilus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kriant*
> 
> I would think evaporation at the very least? I mean, I wouldn't want to breath acid vapors, however deluded they are.


I guess I could put some balloons on there.


----------



## Kriant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nautilus*
> 
> I guess I could put some balloons on there.


Ahah, good one. Just a word of advise - if you elect to use stop plugs or seal plugs or anything to seal Rad holes - don't use plated stuff - I killed 3 plugs and 2 QDC's that way just yesterday. Part 1 is fairly potent (I could feel it through the gloves), and it strips plating like no one's business on caps. Hypothetically speaking you could seal holes with some tape, not sure if it's the worst idea I ever had today, but if it's not making contact with the Part 1 mix, I don't see why that wouldn't work for a short term 6 hour solution. (Though, I would wait for Mayhems to reply in this thread and give you an official answer =) )


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I think if you topping of with only distilled, it will weaken some of the antibacterial properties, but by how much I'm not sure and whether will have any negative effect I think it also depends on how often you will be changing the liquid.
> 
> Tbh. If you say...using Mayhems X1 and need to top off I would try to use the same liquid to give you the peace of mind, rather than adding only distilled.


Yeah, that makes sense. Thanks!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I don't see it in the website? And still what is tge answer to my original question? Why the difference?


@Mayhem

Any answers to this please?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I don't see it in the website? And still what is tge answer to my original question? Why the difference?
> 
> 
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> Any answers to this please?
Click to expand...

We give you recommend amounts on bottles for a reason, if you don't follow thouse specs and water below the amount asked for you will have issues over a period of time. Biocide only works when there is enough of it in the system and diluting a liquid beyond its recommend spec is never a good idea how ever people do it to say a few penny's / cents. You build a water cooling kits that costs hundreds of pounds / dollars yet want to save £3 / $4 dollars topping off a liquid with water above the recommend specs. The simple answer is to stick to the specs on the bottle , if you wish to top off that up to you. If you live in a hot humid county the more you top off the faster the fluid will degrade.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We give you recommend amounts on bottles for a reason, if you don't follow thouse specs and water below the amount asked for you will have issues over a period of time. Biocide only works when there is enough of it in the system and diluting a liquid beyond its recommend spec is never a good idea how ever people do it to say a few penny's / cents. You build a water cooling kits that costs hundreds of pounds / dollars yet want to save £3 / $4 dollars topping off a liquid with water above the recommend specs. The simple answer is to stick to the specs on the bottle , if you wish to top off that up to you. If you live in a hot humid county the more you top off the faster the fluid will degrade.


Thanks for the information but this is not the answer to my question. My question to you is not about topping off. Again, my question is:

Why is the recommendation of the 100ml bottle concentrate "100ml concentrate makes 1L of coolant" while the 250ml bottle concentrate says "125ml concentrate makes 1L of coolant"?

If you do simple chemistry, a 250ml bottle should make 2.5 liters liquid. But based on your recommendation, it can only make 2.

I guess my question is: is the 250ml bottle concentrate more diluted than the 100ml bottle concentrate? Do you get what I mean here?

I mean no pun/offense here. I'm just being direct to the point









I'm asking this because I want to know which between the two bottles I need to buy. If I top off with a solution instead of distilled water, of course I would want to know if one is more "concentrated" than the other. You get what I mean?


----------



## Kriant

Quick question: Is it OK to drop kill coil into Mayhems X1 Clear?

P.S. Finished using Part 2. Flushed 3 times per instruction. Checked my Ph levels - there where exactly at 7:thumb: Started filling the loop ( I have a bad cheap molex adapter which can't run pumps for more than 1h before dying on me, so I have to take it slow (yes, I am too cheap to buy a new one, heh). Filled enough to check for leaks - waiting for 20h to see if anything drips, before powering up the system.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kriant*
> 
> Quick question: Is it OK to drop kill coil into Mayhems X1 Clear?
> 
> P.S. Finished using Part 2. Flushed 3 times per instruction. Checked my Ph levels - there where exactly at 7:thumb: Started filling the loop ( I have a bad cheap molex adapter which can't run pumps for more than 1h before dying on me, so I have to take it slow (yes, I am too cheap to buy a new one, heh). Filled enough to check for leaks - waiting for 20h to see if anything drips, before powering up the system.


No need for a kill coil, X1 has biocide in it already.


----------



## Kriant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> No need for a kill coil, X1 has biocide in it already.


Well, true. But will it hurt to put it? (Because I kinda sorta already did, heh).


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Thanks for the information but this is not the answer to my question. My question to you is not about topping off. Again, my question is:
> 
> Why is the recommendation of the 100ml bottle concentrate "100ml concentrate makes 1L of coolant" while the 250ml bottle concentrate says "125ml concentrate makes 1L of coolant"?
> 
> If you do simple chemistry, a 250ml bottle should make 2.5 liters liquid. But based on your recommendation, it can only make 2.
> 
> I guess my question is: is the 250ml bottle concentrate more diluted than the 100ml bottle concentrate? Do you get what I mean here?
> 
> I mean no pun/offense here. I'm just being direct to the point wink.gif
> 
> I'm asking this because I want to know which between the two bottles I need to buy. If I top off with a solution instead of distilled water, of course I would want to know if one is more "concentrated" than the other. You get what I mean?


I can see where it can get confusing. I can only assume the theory behind here is due to different concentration strength. Some people might only need 1L some more /less but the shipping cost can increase or decrease greatly due to the size of the bottle(s)
Quote:


> Well, true. But will it hurt to put it? (Because I kinda sorta already did, heh).


I think it might be similar to the concept of adding to much of Biocide. People think more its better but in fact it's much worse than not having enough.

Kill Coil will produce ion all its existing life so overtime you might have to much in your loop that can/might cause something negative (speed it up corrosion) even if you have only copper. I don't mean to scare you but it's good to keep one or the other only.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I can see where it can get confusing. I can only assume the theory behind here is due to different concentration strength. Some people might only need 1L some more /less but the shipping cost can increase or decrease greatly due to the size of the bottle(s)


Yeah, that makes sense. Although, I'm not sure if a 100ml bottle vs. a 250ml bottle has a significant effect in shipping costs.


----------



## Kriant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I think it might be similar to the concept of adding to much of Biocide. People think more its better but in fact it's much worse than not having enough.
> 
> Kill Coil will produce ion all its existing life so overtime you might have to much in your loop that can/might cause something negative (speed it up corrosion) even if you have only copper. I don't mean to scare you but it's good to keep one or the other only.


Thanks for your input and opinion on the subject!
I understand that more doesn't equal better. It's just that last time I used EK coolant (admittedly over the period of time it was recommended to use it) I ended up having some oxidation going on, which built up on fittings.

I think since I already put it in (into the rezervoir's second chamber), I will check up on it in 6 months to a year or so, to see if I am getting any more oxidation/buildups or not.

The loop is copper/brass/nickel.

Side note: Mayhems X1 price is just unbeatable (among coolants). I was pleasantly surprised =)


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Yeah, that makes sense. Although, I'm not sure if a 100ml bottle vs. a 250ml bottle has a significant effect in shipping costs.


Considering that some people are on budget when comes to liquid







and like Mayhems mentioned "people don't mind spending hundreds of $ on their systems" but trying skimping out on liquid, it's kind of funny and I'm not taking you per say but in general.

Also there are system builders that order ton of liquid, so even thou 1-2 bottles might not make a significant difference but multiply that by say...5-10, it can cut shipping cost by a lot and shipping cost it's not only calculated by size but by its weight.
Quote:


> Thanks for your input and opinion on the subject!
> I understand that more doesn't equal better. It's just that last time I used EK coolant (admittedly over the period of time it was recommended to use it) I ended up having some oxidation going on, which built up on fittings.
> 
> I think since I already put it in (into the rezervoir's second chamber), I will check up on it in 6 months to a year or so, to see if I am getting any more oxidation/buildups or not.
> 
> The loop is copper/brass/nickel.
> 
> Side note: Mayhems X1 price is just unbeatable (among coolants). I was pleasantly surprised =)


It shouldn't damage your system, also in time X1's biocide degrades, so it should be fine. The worse scenario is that if you have poorly processed nickel plated blocks like EK had at one time, which I think is not the issue any more, but it might speed things up as far is tarnishing or perhaps piling the nickel off.

You should be OK, but sometimes it's worth going the extra mile and removing unnecessary items if can cause you grief, just keep eye on it, you should be fine.


----------



## Mayhem

*I guess my question is: is the 250ml bottle concentrate more diluted than the 100ml bottle concentrate? Do you get what I mean here?*

Yes one is more diluted to the other this was answered before in a previous post to you.







and as guessed above its all about shipping costs, to keep things as cheap as possible we try to give uses diffrent sizes to there needs and we were the first company to do this.

The New XT1- nuke for instance now comes in 250ml, 1 Ltr and 5 Ltr concentrate forms to cover all aspects and sizes of cooling we are looking at doing 100ml versions as well and maybe colours depending on how sales go. we are also looking at concentrating X1 more so that we can do a 50ml, 100ml , 250ml ect ect were less fluid is needed to create the same effect again reducing costs of shipping. After all this is were you the consumer gets hit the most. This all takes time though.


----------



## kevindd992002

Got it. Thanks for the answers guys


----------



## Craigk19

I know meyhems has a new formula for their pastel according to Jayztwocents my question is if i order for performance pc or MainFrame Customs will they have the new stuff or old stock of the old stuff? would order straight from meyhems but i live in the States


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> I know meyhems has a new formula for their pastel according to Jayztwocents my question is if i order for performance pc or MainFrame Customs will they have the new stuff or old stock of the old stuff? would order straight from meyhems but i live in the States


It might be better if you ask them directly. No one here would know.


----------



## Blackops_2

I recently ordered from Performance PCs. It's certainly in a new bottle compared to my old pastel i have sitting on the shelf, which is expired. Though i didn't ask if it was the new formula.


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> It might be better if you ask them directly. No one here would know.


that seems like a smart idea. I think at this point I've become to reliant on overclock.net haha!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> that seems like a smart idea. I think at this point I've become to reliant on overclock.net haha!


I know because I am too, lol!


----------



## Neokolzia

Anyone have any recommendation for using Extreme Pastel Concentrated Mix?

I'm not watercooling likely for another week or two at least, as I leave the Ryzen system in test mode.
Have it and some Pink UV dye for Acrylic tubed setup (from my understanding Extreme Pastel has Glycol and isn't compatible with PETG?)

~Distilled water or Deionized? Both Are easily avaliable here in Canada

~Any particular pre-wash for the loop? Or just what Dazmode recommends just blasting Rads etc with hot water (Which I've done and gotten all the crap out)

Everything is new also, no used parts or old Coolant.

Thanks!


----------



## batmanwcm

After running Pastel Blue for 3 months that I bought from Performance-PC's, there looks to be some kind of green growth forming in the tube reservoir.



I can't say that I'm happy about it. It's going to take me a while to take apart and clean this loop.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> After running Pastel Blue for 3 months that I bought from Performance-PC's, there looks to be some kind of green growth forming in the tube reservoir.



Quote:


> I can't say that I'm happy about it. It's going to take me a while to take apart and clean this loop.


First thing I though Algae, but after 3 months I really doubt, unless you had some in your loop already and it found its way to reservoir, that is possible, maybe pastel was bad batch.

You also have hard tubing, at least from what I can see so I don't think its plasticizer, that stuff can come up pretty quickly and looks so similar to what you have., that's why when you do hard tubing I do even where people can't see (basement), its for your benefit, that 1 small flex tube can leach plasticizer everywhere.

One thing come to mind is the residue that comes from O-rings. Depending on O-rings made, some of them even the same brand but from different batch they can seep stuff like that in a matter of days.

I had Bitspower dual D5 pump top and where the oval window is I would have brown/green residue within days I would take it apart and clean the Plexiglas and days later it would accumulate again.

To be on safe side so whatever that is and doesn't spread everywhere I would take apart ASAP and diligently clean it.

Let us know what that is once you figure it out.
Good luck


----------



## ali13245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> After running Pastel Blue for 3 months that I bought from Performance-PC's, there looks to be some kind of green growth forming in the tube reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say that I'm happy about it. It's going to take me a while to take apart and clean this loop.


My loop will have been running 3 months by the end of this month and this is how it currently looks using the same pastel as you, but I purchased mine from mainframecustoms.com. I am also using soft tubing in the basement of my SMA8 which has given me no issues so far.


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> After running Pastel Blue for 3 months that I bought from Performance-PC's, there looks to be some kind of green growth forming in the tube reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say that I'm happy about it. It's going to take me a while to take apart and clean this loop.


Did you use Mayhems Blitz kit prior to filling the loop?


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel has 3 forms of protection to kill and stop Algae growing.

1) UV light is needed for Algae to grow, Pastel blocks UV light stopping this from happening.
2) Pastel has an anti Bactria / Biocide additive killing Algae
3) There is a 3rd additive added to reduce oxygen in the fluid and Algae needs oxygen to grow.

We also use 3x the minimum amount of Protection needed to stop Algae growth, Basically its over kill unlike other producers..


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> After running Pastel Blue for 3 months that I bought from Performance-PC's, there looks to be some kind of green growth forming in the tube reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say that I'm happy about it. It's going to take me a while to take apart and clean this loop.


What brand of rads are you using?

Imo the green discoloration is from your rads, that is a common issue with some of them.
I had the same issue when I was running an Alphacool 480 Monsta and Pastel White in my TJ07, the green discoloration formed after about a month.
Alphacool rads can be bad for this happening, unless you really clean them out well beforehand.
So can other brands of rads, depending on their manufacture and cleaning at the factory.
This was before the Mayhems Blitz kits came out, so I had only used the old flush and shake method back then.

Perhaps when you do clean out the loop, you may want to consider using Blitz part 1 and 2 to give the rads a thorough cleaning.


----------



## emsj86

I doubt it's the fluid. I used pastel blue for over a year with no issues.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Coolants Tubing Compatibility Chart. This Chart is for users to use the correct fluids with the correct tubing.

Ops .. re uploaded










*** Updated due to spelling mistake


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Coolants Tubing Compatibility Chart. This Chart is for users to use the correct fluids with the correct tubing.
> 
> Ops .. re uploaded


very glad to see this! May i ask if you completed any testing and what you found?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Coolants Tubing Compatibility Chart. This Chart is for users to use the correct fluids with the correct tubing.
> 
> Ops .. re uploaded


What is the issue with some and PTEG?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> What is the issue with some and PTEG?


ethylene glycol i assume since those are all EG fluids (edit: not sure about biocide). I've seen lots saying its incompatible with petg but no actual testing showing what really happens. Kinda curious


----------



## kevindd992002

Are Mayhems and Swiftech partners?


----------



## Hasty

.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> What is the issue with some and PTEG?


I still think PTEG tubing its not the way to go if you planning on keeping the layout and tubing for a while, acrylic is the way to go.

I have acrylic that I have installed in my system almost 3 years ago, its perfect in every way I don't have to worry about any evaporation or problems of any kind as PTEG does absorbs some liquid.

I did my nephews acrylic tubing 2 years ago and he was happy, no issues but when he upgraded to new 10 series cards he changed to PTEG and he said " I don't even know why" and he used EK coolant I'm not sure which 1 but after while he said he had some liquid latterly sweating on the tubes, it looked like condensation, but it was obviously advert effect of the liquid.

He change it back to acrylic and he said he can sleep better now, his words "heck with PTEG"


----------



## Mayhem

Ethylene Glycol causes the tubing to shrink with time and dry out, it all so causes micro fracturing. Biocide made from Copper sulphate causes Micro fracturing, shrinkage has not been tested. These are all long term issues and will not show up in a short period of time. We have tested this over a long period of time and the above chart is our recommendations.

We have tested other manufacturers tubing and some fluids as well, how ever this is for our internal usage only and for our knowledge base. Companies should do there own R&D and base there warranties accordingly and support there users accordingly.

Its up to the end user to determine what they use and how they use it.

The chart will be added to all our cooling listings from now on, giving you the user more freedom to make there minds up.

Mick


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Are Mayhems and Swiftech partners?


Yes


----------



## Mayhem

Updated chart due to spelling mistake


----------



## Mayhem

Another update due to Pm requests


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Another update due to Pm requests
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice chart so far, many users will find this very useful









need to update again though, for spelling - XSPC PTEG


----------



## Mayhem

haha ill do that tomorrow , doing these things in the middle of the night is not the best thing to do lol.

**Updated**


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Coolants Tubing Compatibility Chart. This Chart is for users to use the correct fluids with the correct tubing.
> 
> Ops .. re uploaded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *** Updated due to spelling mistake


I'm using primochill clear PETG hard tubing and was recently using mayhems pastel ice white. In need of a fluid upgrade I recently replaced to mayhems pastel extreme white. Luckily I haven't gotten around to putting it in yet.

Why is the pastel extreme no longer compatible with PETG?


----------



## Mayhem

Tubing can fail for many reasons but failure has scored it a negative mark. Some reason for failure include, Micro fracturing, Cracking, Shrinkage, Drying out and more.


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Coolants Tubing Compatibility Chart. This Chart is for users to use the correct fluids with the correct tubing.
> 
> Ops .. re uploaded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *** Updated due to spelling mistake
> 
> 
> 
> FFS I'm using primochill clear PETG hard tubing and was recently using mayhems pastel ice white. In need of a fluid upgrade I recently replaced to mayhems pastel extreme white. Luckily I haven't gotten around to putting it in yet.
> 
> Why is the pastel extreme no longer compatible with PETG?
Click to expand...

Pastel extreme white has Glycol in it to my knowledge, no "standard" PETG passes it to my knowledge.

Just its not overly easy to obtain information that it does have Glycol =\


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Pastel extreme white has Glycol in it to my knowledge, no "standard" PETG passes it to my knowledge.
> 
> Just its not overly easy to obtain information that it does have Glycol =\


So I should swap my extreme for the old regular version?

Nice move mayhem, remove one of the main tubing from your usage.


----------



## Mayhem

Sorry our testing takes time and we try to be as informative as possible, We do not have to test "other" companies products but we do because we care. If you do not like to be informed off possible issues then we can let you waist money, spend hours testing, blow up your rig and cry about it on forums when you didn't do your own due diligence. Or we can test and test and keep testing to aid you make good decisions about what products you should use.

MSDS sheets are viable freely on our support site over at mayhems.net and you can use them and look up information as and when needed e.g http://mayhems.net/sds/pastel/extreme/pastel_extreme_100_ml_sds.pdf and as you can clearly see with in the MSDS sheet it states the main base makeup of it.










MSDS sheets are here -> http://support.mayhems.net/pages/mayhems-msds-sds-sheets


----------



## Bluemustang

Well quite frankly (and not really meant offensively) you do just about the worst job of explaining things as anyone i've ever known.

Your last response was not at all clear and so I was basing my response upon your compatibility list and then on Neokolzia's response which said to me that you chose to use Ethylene Glycol as your anti corrosion agent which was said here to crack PETG.

If it's actually the case that noone yet knows and you haven't yet done the research to find out, then disregard my statement. But if you chose something that would be incompatible with tubing many use without adding warnings to the bottle that seems like a bad business decision. Also everyone in the water cooling arena's customer service attitude leaves mountains to be desired.

PS: Isn't ethylene glycol incompatible with copper sulphate biocides? or do you use something else for biocides?


----------



## Mayhem

We do a lot of testing in house and found that ethylene glycol causes micro fractures, shrinkage and drying out of the PTEG Tubing (over time and depending on conditions and not always but enough to cause us a concern). Ref Primochill its causes the tubing to go harder and degrade over time.

You can use copper sulphate with Pure Glycols how ever some times there may be a reaction with "other" chemicals used in coolants such as biocides and inhibitors, so its not suggested to mix them both unless a company says so. We do not recommend using them together with our coolants as they may effect the biocides and surfactants in the coolants we use.

Coolants are not just a base fluid they can contain upwards of 5 to 20 chemicals and each and every one is diffrent.


----------



## Bluemustang

So based on your compatibility list i take it you dont use ethylene glycol in your old pastel formula?


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> So based on your compatibility list i take it you dont use ethylene glycol in your old pastel formula?


Mayhems isn't the only one who uses Glycol, so calm down lol. Its just poor communication across "most" liquid manifacturers that don't specify this very well.

Dazmode has it listed decently on their PETG which coolants not to use with it.

"Glycol based coolants are not recommended for PETG type of plastic, such as DazMode Protector, Feser One, Nanoxia CF1, Koolance, EK EVO, Mayhems XT.
Mayhems Pastel, EK Pastel or Ice Dragon nano-liquids are OK for PETG tube projects"

You really do have to look deep to find information about Pastel Extreme and I believe its information that should be directly avaliable on Mayhems website.


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sorry our testing takes time and we try to be as informative as possible, We do not have to test "other" companies products but we do because we care. If you do not like to be informed off possible issues then we can let you waist money, spend hours testing, blow up your rig and cry about it on forums when you didn't do your own due diligence. Or we can test and test and keep testing to aid you make good decisions about what products you should use.
> 
> MSDS sheets are viable freely on our support site over at mayhems.net and you can use them and look up information as and when needed e.g http://mayhems.net/sds/pastel/extreme/pastel_extreme_100_ml_sds.pdf and as you can clearly see with in the MSDS sheet it states the main base makeup of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MSDS sheets are here -> http://support.mayhems.net/pages/mayhems-msds-sds-sheets


Speaking of Pastel Extreme, I'm going to be putting together my loop in about a week or so, with some, and Pink UV Mayhems dye.

I unfortunately do not have Blitz kit, its going to be on a totally new fresh loop, I understand mileage will vary without using something as aggressive as Blitz, but when you say on the website, "Toughly" clean radiators and system, whats a good alternative?

Dazmode didn't have both parts of Blitz, and its prohibitively expensive from other suppliers in Canada so I just had to forgo it for now.

Is a Vinegar soak for a few hours then baking soda wash similar effect or I've heard this has fell out of style? Any recommendations?

Also with Premixing, the White Pastel, and then Dyeing it, does a intense concentrate such as 2L show off color better or a more dilute concentrate, when using UV Lights etc?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> So based on your compatibility list i take it you dont use ethylene glycol in your old pastel formula?


That is correct.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sorry our testing takes time and we try to be as informative as possible, We do not have to test "other" companies products but we do because we care. If you do not like to be informed off possible issues then we can let you waist money, spend hours testing, blow up your rig and cry about it on forums when you didn't do your own due diligence. Or we can test and test and keep testing to aid you make good decisions about what products you should use.
> 
> MSDS sheets are viable freely on our support site over at mayhems.net and you can use them and look up information as and when needed e.g http://mayhems.net/sds/pastel/extreme/pastel_extreme_100_ml_sds.pdf and as you can clearly see with in the MSDS sheet it states the main base makeup of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MSDS sheets are here -> http://support.mayhems.net/pages/mayhems-msds-sds-sheets
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of Pastel Extreme, I'm going to be putting together my loop in about a week or so, with some, and Pink UV Mayhems dye.
> 
> I unfortunately do not have Blitz kit, its going to be on a totally new fresh loop, I understand mileage will vary without using something as aggressive as Blitz, but when you say on the website, "Toughly" clean radiators and system, whats a good alternative?
> 
> Dazmode didn't have both parts of Blitz, and its prohibitively expensive from other suppliers in Canada so I just had to forgo it for now.
> 
> Is a Vinegar soak for a few hours then baking soda wash similar effect or I've heard this has fell out of style? Any recommendations?
> 
> Also with Premixing, the White Pastel, and then Dyeing it, does a intense concentrate such as 2L show off color better or a more dilute concentrate, when using UV Lights etc?
Click to expand...

Yup Vinegar soak for a few hours then baking soda wash will do the trick, Use warm water with the vinegar and leave for a good few hours, slosh it about a bit to try and clean up as much as you can.

Ive updated the site -> https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/pastel-coolants/pastel-extreme-100ml/mayhems-pastel-extreme-white-100ml/ so it now says. thank you for pointing this out.


----------



## Yukss

I really want to try pastel yellow on my loop, i currently using primochill petg tubing and all my waterblocks and radiator are coopper base, hopefully i dont get the nightmares associated with mayhem pastel products.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Another update due to Pm requests


Awesome to see EK ZMT can handle pastel/extreme with zero issues since I wanted to run a nano fluid again, just been hesitant since I was unsure if it was safe to run.

The pastel isn't recommended with PETG tubing, plus all the supposed "nightmares" happen with TTakes crappy fluids and poorly flushed radiators


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sorry our testing takes time and we try to be as informative as possible, We do not have to test "other" companies products but we do because we care. If you do not like to be informed off possible issues then we can let you waist money, spend hours testing, blow up your rig and cry about it on forums when you didn't do your own due diligence. Or we can test and test and keep testing to aid you make good decisions about what products you should use.
> 
> MSDS sheets are viable freely on our support site over at mayhems.net and you can use them and look up information as and when needed e.g http://mayhems.net/sds/pastel/extreme/pastel_extreme_100_ml_sds.pdf and as you can clearly see with in the MSDS sheet it states the main base makeup of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MSDS sheets are here -> http://support.mayhems.net/pages/mayhems-msds-sds-sheets
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of Pastel Extreme, I'm going to be putting together my loop in about a week or so, with some, and Pink UV Mayhems dye.
> 
> I unfortunately do not have Blitz kit, its going to be on a totally new fresh loop, I understand mileage will vary without using something as aggressive as Blitz, but when you say on the website, "Toughly" clean radiators and system, whats a good alternative?
> 
> Dazmode didn't have both parts of Blitz, and its prohibitively expensive from other suppliers in Canada so I just had to forgo it for now.
> 
> Is a Vinegar soak for a few hours then baking soda wash similar effect or I've heard this has fell out of style? Any recommendations?
> 
> Also with Premixing, the White Pastel, and then Dyeing it, does a intense concentrate such as 2L show off color better or a more dilute concentrate, when using UV Lights etc?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yup Vinegar soak for a few hours then baking soda wash will do the trick, Use warm water with the vinegar and leave for a good few hours, slosh it about a bit to try and clean up as much as you can.
> 
> Ive updated the site -> https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/pastel-coolants/pastel-extreme-100ml/mayhems-pastel-extreme-white-100ml/ so it now says. thank you for pointing this out.
Click to expand...

Very good advise regarding a vinegar alternative for cleaning the rads.

I wanted to point out for Neokolzia, that various Mayhems products can be quite reasonable when purchased directly from Mayhems, even when being shipped to Canada.
Have a look at purchasing the Blitz products from there as well.
https://mayhems.co.uk/cleaning/

I purchased five Mayhems Havoc rads directly from Mayhems, and their prices, as well as the shipping, was really reasonable.
The customer service from Mayhems was fantastic.


----------



## albmanzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Flex UV White None Leaching tubing. Based on the same formula of our clear tubing and doesn't leave a powdery residue (known and found in other manufacturers tubing).


Hello lads. I'm in this thread to advance a little help request.

I can't seem to find a proper UV showcase of these tubes, just pictures without UV lighting, the only one with it is the last you posted here, and that's surely not a big glow nor the best conditions to show it.

Does anyone here make these tubes glow? Would you at Mayhem be so great so show them glowing strong in pitch black darkness? Otherwise I could be tempted to infer they always glow poorly.









I can't know how well these new tubes are selling, and if you at Mayhem are satisfied with that... all I can say is that good marketing material for UV tubing should include strong "UV lighting only" pictures, don't you agree?


----------



## Mayhem

Ill get one posted Monday for you or if i can get into work tomorrow ill sort it out for you.

Mick

old photo taken on my phone



It has a very bright blue / white glow under light.

P.s It falls under our normal warranty," if your not happy we will replace or refund it" that is how confident we are you'll be happy.


----------



## albmanzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ill get one posted Monday for you or if i can get into work tomorrow ill sort it out for you.
> 
> Mick
> 
> old photo taken on my phone
> 
> 
> 
> It has a very bright blue / white glow under light.
> 
> P.s It falls under our normal warranty," if your not happy we will replace or refund it" that is how confident we are you'll be happy.


Now we´re talking! Super, thanks


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *albmanzi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ill get one posted Monday for you or if i can get into work tomorrow ill sort it out for you.
> 
> Mick
> 
> old photo taken on my phone
> 
> 
> 
> It has a very bright blue / white glow under light.
> 
> P.s It falls under our normal warranty," if your not happy we will replace or refund it" that is how confident we are you'll be happy.
> 
> 
> 
> Now we´re talking! Super, thanks
Click to expand...

Just so you know i used a CCFL when taking that photo. If you after a good glow go for CCFL or Darkside Leds as lot of cheap leds are well ...... rubbish.


----------



## albmanzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just so you know i used a CCFL when taking that photo. If you after a good glow go for CCFL or Darkside Leds as lot of cheap leds are well ...... rubbish.


are the phobya uv flex led srips rubbish?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *albmanzi*
> 
> are the phobya uv flex led srips rubbish?


I know the ones I have are total rubbish


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *albmanzi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just so you know i used a CCFL when taking that photo. If you after a good glow go for CCFL or Darkside Leds as lot of cheap leds are well ...... rubbish.
> 
> 
> 
> are the phobya uv flex led srips rubbish?
Click to expand...

They're really just purple and not true uv. They give a good glow effect, but also fill your case with purple light. Darkside leds or cathodes are the way to go.


----------



## albmanzi

Alright, Darkside it is then!


----------



## Mayhem

Phobya leds are crap simple as.


----------



## emsj86

Damn did not know about bits power petg being a no go on pastel extreme ran it a year that way and plan k. Doing it this coming build. I guess I should go acrylic or glass


----------



## DarthBaggins

Also cablemod's hybrid LED's have some great UV capabilities as well, even while using the RGB side of the strips


----------



## Mayhem

Here is a Cold Cathode Photo of the Mayhems UV White Tubing taken today with black background.



Here is a Phobya UV Led strip pretty close up and was a 1 Meter strip



Here is a Darkside Led strip (5") from 4 foot away (when we tried to move it closer it was to bright for the camera)



Please do not take these as what are going to see, the eyes does not pick up detail as much as the camera does and its all about displacement of the UV light.

This is the reason why we Recommend "*Darkside*" Led Strips compared to other brands


----------



## akira749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Here is a Cold Cathode Photo of the Mayhems UV White Tubing taken today with black background.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a Phobya UV Led strip pretty close up and was a 1 Meter strip
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a Darkside Led strip (5") from 4 foot away (when we tried to move it closer it was to bright for the camera)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please do not take these as what are going to see, the eyes does not pick up detail as much as the camera does and its all about displacement of the UV light.
> 
> This is the reason why we Recommend "*Darkside*" Led Strips compared to other brands


100% Agreed on the Darkside LED Strips!


----------



## albmanzi

Thank you very much for the detailed pictures and explanation!!









The tubing looks gorgeous with darkside led strip!!


----------



## Dazmode

Thank you for kind words guys!


----------



## BelialApollyon

Their isn't any info on pastel extreme. Does it fall in line with regular pastel? I heard that it isn't compatible with PETG. Is this true?


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelialApollyon*
> 
> Their isn't any info on pastel extreme. Does it fall in line with regular pastel? I heard that it isn't compatible with PETG. Is this true?


If you read back a page or two mayhems posted a list of compatibly with their products with different tubing.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Yukss

well i just bought the yellow pastel sunset, god please have mercy with me. i will post my results in 2 days


----------



## Neokolzia

I bought Extreme Pastel and Pink UV should have it up next week. Am using Darkside LED's as well, I don't know if the UV will be overkill I have ALOT of uv xD including 60mm ring for the Res, and 3mm's for the EK blocks.

Problem is, the pink dye glows orange to a degree? I don't know where it will balance out =x

From what I saw on another forum testing out UV dye on pastel, having a more opaque mixture works better then a super dense pastel.

Post from here:

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?s=66c4f5327df7a8b4c3588f480bee5db7&p=711573&postcount=86

But mind you this is using Pink UV in Pink Pastel. So I don't know if I'll be hooped UV color wise before I get the color I want?
I don't know if I can pickup some pink dye then add UV to flavor? Idk.

Pure UV's + dye on the left, and Pastel Pink + UV on right.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> well i just bought the yellow pastel sunset, god please have mercy with me. i will post my results in 2 days


Just make sure your pH levels are good and that you flushed your rads properly etc


----------



## 414347

What a nice colors


----------



## Yukss

Its morphing time...


----------



## Yukss

lets see how it goes..


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukss*
> 
> lets see how it goes..


Hope you cleaned that rad well.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hope you cleaned that rad well.


I did. hopefully its ok


----------



## Eco28

Its been few years since I have been successfully using Pastel and Mayhem Aurora"1/2" coolatns in my loop. It is now almost 2 years I haven't touched it since last refill and it is running flawlessly except the fact it just got darker. But now it is time to upgrade the unit which raises a question. Is there any new and hip successor for old Aurora back in the day which from my experience used to keep its "effect" for few montsh before vanishing? The Mayhem website is a bit enigmatic and I would rather rely on fellow forumers opinions. I am running soft tubing, good ol' copper alphacool nexXxos rads and nickel painted water blocks from EK. Is there also any safe bet when it comes to clear tubing? I used to have PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT which was ok'is no plasticizer problems with Mayhems. Appreciate advice and recommendations.
Mah loop:


----------



## hebrewbacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> After running Pastel Blue for 3 months that I bought from Performance-PC's, there looks to be some kind of green growth forming in the tube reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say that I'm happy about it. It's going to take me a while to take apart and clean this loop.


Sheesh, that looks bad. I've been using pastel blue as well for about a month or so with no issues as well (soft tubing). I have some PETG hard tubing on the way. Hoping mine holds up months later as well. This is the first time I've used a coolant as I've always used distilled water prior to this.


----------



## Alperen62002

Hi

Did someone here try to mix the UV Green Dye with UV Blue (Clear) Dye???

Thank you in advance


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Phobya leds are crap simple as.


Fully Agree with you
I use non-stain uv sky blue clear dye.
I just bought this phobya UV leds with high density. They wiped out the UV Effect of the dye in 2 Days.
Here is some comparison between CCFL and Phobya, Lamptron etc UV leds
PHOBYA 1ST DAY



3rd DAY










CCFL
1st DAY


over 2 Weeks


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> Fully Agree with you
> I use non-stain uv sky blue clear dye.
> I just bought this phobya UV leds with high density. They wiped out the UV Effect of the dye in 2 Days.
> Here is some comparison between CCFL and Phobya, Lamptron etc UV leds
> PHOBYA 1ST DAY
> 
> 
> 
> 3rd DAY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CCFL
> 1st DAY
> 
> 
> over 2 Weeks


----------



## The EX1

I'm happy to see that Mayhems is offering soft tubing in white. Any other colors planned? Will 7/16 x 5/8 be made in the future?


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Phobya leds are crap simple as.
> 
> 
> 
> Fully Agree with you
> I use non-stain uv sky blue clear dye.
> I just bought this phobya UV leds with high density. They wiped out the UV Effect of the dye in 2 Days.
> Here is some comparison between CCFL and Phobya, Lamptron etc UV leds
> PHOBYA 1ST DAY
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3rd DAY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CCFL
> 1st DAY
> 
> 
> over 2 Weeks
Click to expand...

wow I didn't know UV led's could murder the UV pigments like that hope Darkside UV led's don't do the same haven't experimented with it yet, or my Alphacool 60mm UV ring that would be super depressing if all the work I put in goes down the drain and UV pigment just get murdered


----------



## fast_fate

Pastel Extreme and pink Acrylic tubing.

Before Coolant added.



With coolant


----------



## DerComissar

@fast_fate:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/14680#post_26003751
Now that is a really cool effect!


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Pastel Extreme and pink Acrylic tubing.
> 
> Before Coolant added.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With coolant


Looks fantastic, I'm hoping mine pink effect at least turns out half as good using Clear acrylic and pink UV dye and UV lights and pastel extreme


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Looks fantastic, I'm hoping mine pink effect at least turns out half as good using Clear acrylic and pink UV dye and UV lights and pastel extreme


I had a laugh when I saw your post last week with the asst pinks.
I kinda knew we were after a similar effect - except you're planning on exploiting the UV effect.

Hope your result makes you as happy as I am with mine








hoping for the best of luck for you.

and DerC,








f_f


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> wow I didn't know UV led's could murder the UV pigments like that hope Darkside UV led's don't do the same haven't experimented with it yet, or my Alphacool 60mm UV ring that would be super depressing if all the work I put in goes down the drain and UV pigment just get murdered


That's my experience

I didn't know that too. But it seems that phobya leds have other UV spectrum than the other LEDs.
After a research I found this topic

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/warning-notice-from-mayhems-uv-clear-blue-dye.18408419/

I installed an alphacool uv ring too with my CCFLs. (look at the last picture) It runs since 5 days. Nothing is happened.


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> wow I didn't know UV led's could murder the UV pigments like that hope Darkside UV led's don't do the same haven't experimented with it yet, or my Alphacool 60mm UV ring that would be super depressing if all the work I put in goes down the drain and UV pigment just get murdered
> 
> 
> 
> That's my experience
> 
> I didn't know that too. But it seems that phobya leds have other UV spectrum than the other LEDs.
> After a research I found this topic
> 
> https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/warning-notice-from-mayhems-uv-clear-blue-dye.18408419/
> 
> I installed an alphacool uv ring too with my CCFLs. (look at the last picture) It runs since 5 days. Nothing is happened.
Click to expand...

Good to know, I imagine the Diode they use is more accepted then. The diode looks identical to ones in the Darkside LED's which are VERY deep purple, I've noticed some LED's are more blue? or something

Though I don't know if the 3mm LED's for GPU/CPU block are the same as the ones spectrum wise at least as the rigid UV sticks


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Coolants Tubing Compatibility Chart. This Chart is for users to use the correct fluids with the correct tubing.
> 
> Ops .. re uploaded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *** Updated due to spelling mistake


Bookmarked, very handy quick chart


----------



## AllGamer

Quick question regarding "_Expiry Date_"

So last year I purchased a big load of Mayhems X1 concentrate for use and for spare.

I just noticed they are expiring soon or expired already for some bottles.

They have been stored in a nice cool room temperature environment, not dry, unopened.

Are they still safe to use?... as in the built-in BIocide still works with distilled water?


----------



## SteezyTN

Been using Pastel Red since October 16' and I haven't had any issues so far (knock on wood







) Been this color since day 1. Ive cleaned the radiators multiple times on different occasions with Blitz Part 1 over the past 2 years, so it appears that doing it more than once can save the colors from changing.


----------



## chibi

Hi guys, does anyone have long term pictures/results for Pastel White? I usually perform maintenance once every two years and am thinking about going Pastel White with a new build. All components new and rads will be cycled through Blitz 1 + 2.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hi guys, does anyone have long term pictures/results for Pastel White? I usually perform maintenance once every two years and am thinking about going Pastel White with a new build. All components new and rads will be cycled through Blitz 1 + 2.


I had Ice White previously in my build before I changed it out for fresh white and red. I had it really watered down over time, but it stayed white for a good 1.5 years.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I had Ice White previously in my build before I changed it out for fresh white and red. I had it really watered down over time, but it stayed white for a good 1.5 years.


That helps greatly! 1.5 years I can handle... I'm more of a set it and forget it kind of guy haha.


----------



## Alperen62002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Good to know, I imagine the Diode they use is more accepted then. The diode looks identical to ones in the Darkside LED's which are VERY deep purple, I've noticed some LED's are more blue? or something
> 
> Though I don't know if the 3mm LED's for GPU/CPU block are the same as the ones spectrum wise at least as the rigid UV sticks


I used this 3mm LEDs in my GPU Block, CPU Block and RES. That don't help. The UV Light is too weak in 3mm diode.


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alperen62002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Good to know, I imagine the Diode they use is more accepted then. The diode looks identical to ones in the Darkside LED's which are VERY deep purple, I've noticed some LED's are more blue? or something
> 
> Though I don't know if the 3mm LED's for GPU/CPU block are the same as the ones spectrum wise at least as the rigid UV sticks
> 
> 
> 
> I used this 3mm LEDs in my GPU Block, CPU Block and RES. That don't help. The UV Light is too weak in 3mm diode.
Click to expand...

Very nice, adds a bit of light at least, not much but looks great:thumb:

Can't wait to get mine setup, wondering how well will go over trying to paint the pink on my sleeved cables with some UV pink dye just diluted a bit


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quick question regarding "_Expiry Date_"
> 
> So last year I purchased a big load of Mayhems X1 concentrate for use and for spare.
> 
> I just noticed they are expiring soon or expired already for some bottles.
> 
> They have been stored in a nice cool room temperature environment, not dry, unopened.
> 
> Are they still safe to use?... as in the built-in BIocide still works with distilled water?


They should be fine, if they are way past there sell by date / use date and you have a receipt you can contact me direct and ill sort them out for you. Please remember though sell by date is for the re seller not the user and is a indication of when it should be sold by not used by. Trying to get re sellers to stock rotate is a nightmare some times but they are getting there. People tend to forget coolant are a living product as such and has a shelf life, in the past certain manufacturers of coolant negated to tell users and re sellers this.


----------



## chibi

Hello Mayhems,

Quick question, am I able to mix in Pastel Extreme White with X1 Clear - Pre-Mix?

Thanks,


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hello Mayhems,
> 
> Quick question, am I able to mix in Pastel Extreme White with X1 Clear - Pre-Mix?
> 
> Thanks,


I am not Mayhems, but Pastel Extreme already has the additives, and so does the X1 pre mix. Why don't you add the Pastel Extreme to distilled water in the proper proportions as intended?


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> I am not Mayhems, but Pastel Extreme already has the additives, and so does the X1 pre mix. Why don't you add the Pastel Extreme to distilled water in the proper proportions as intended?


Thanks for your suggestion! In hindsight, I guess my question didn't have to be Mayhems specific.









Originally, I had intended to go with Clear Fluid only and already have three bottles of the X1 Pre-Mix. On a whim, I thought about trying the Pastel White Extreme, but wanted to ask the question first before spending $.

Not sure if the extra additives and whatnot from mixing both the Pastel Extreme + Pre-Mix would cause any issues.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Thanks for your suggestion! In hindsight, I guess my question didn't have to be Mayhems specific.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally, I had intended to go with Clear Fluid only and have already ordered three bottles of the X1 Pre-Mix. On a whim, I thought about trying the Pastel White Extreme, but wanted to ask the question first before spending $.


Make sure you're using Acrylic or Ek ZMT tubing if you want to use the Pastel Extreme, X1 though is safe with PETG tubing, acrylic. See below screenshot taken from Mayhems website regarding X1- Clearly says do not mix with Pastel.


----------



## chibi

Dang that stinks, guess no Pastel White for me! Would be too much of a waste not to use the X1 I already have on hand.








Thank you for the chart and assistance, krutoydiesel.


----------



## Mayhem

No you cannot mix them both (Pastel extreme and X1) you can mix pastel extreme with XT-1 how ever it will fall out much faster.


----------



## Mgrandy

this may sound totally stupid but

"This cleaning system is not safe to use around children and animals. Part 1 and Part 2 of the system uses highly effective cleaning acids down to PH 2 and you must take appropriate measures when using such products. You can dispose of the fluids down the drain once they have been diluted."

so how can this be PH neutral +/- 0.5

"· pH neutral (Ph7 -0.5 / +0.5)"

really you want to say the is PH2? right?

sorry im new to the products and from reading the first page it dont instil me with confidence, just a thought. for a start you clearly. sorry ill restart. your company dont know how to flush a rad properly and dont know what PH neutral is. i aint even continued reading the 1472 pages yet. like if it was PH neutral animals and kids would be fine as long as they didnt drink and so would copper and what ever else you suggested your products dont like


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mgrandy*
> 
> this may sound totally stupid but
> 
> "This cleaning system is not safe to use around children and animals. Part 1 and Part 2 of the system uses highly effective cleaning acids down to PH 2 and you must take appropriate measures when using such products. You can dispose of the fluids down the drain once they have been diluted."
> 
> so how can this be PH neutral +/- 0.5
> 
> "· pH neutral (Ph7 -0.5 / +0.5)"
> 
> really you want to say the is PH2? right?
> 
> sorry im new to the products and from reading the first page it dont instil me with confidence, just a thought. for a start you clearly. sorry ill restart. your company dont know how to flush a rad properly and dont know what PH neutral is. i aint even continued reading the 1472 pages yet. like if it was PH neutral animals and kids would be fine as long as they didnt drink and so would copper and what ever else you suggested your products dont like


Part 1 is the acid, part 2 the neutralizer. These are chemicals and like any other chemical in your house, keep it away from the kids/pets...


----------



## Mgrandy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Part 1 is the acid, part 2 the neutralizer. These are chemicals and like any other chemical in your house, keep it away from the kids/pets...


1= acid, 2= alkaline, if im readin this correct so still what part is PH neutral the water you use to flush after that hardly counts does it? and yes they are general household products just your company has perfected the solution amounts is this not better described. The colours look great i might add but im still bamboozled of how stupid this company thinks i am. nvm ill erm, look in to solutions more before i decide anything if this is whats to come and its clear from the charts this aint as easy as it seems i could possible get the same results from hmmm vinegar and baking soda not that i would mind u


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mgrandy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Part 1 is the acid, part 2 the neutralizer. These are chemicals and like any other chemical in your house, keep it away from the kids/pets...
> 
> 
> 
> 1= acid, 2= alkaline, if im readin this correct so still what part is PH neutral the water you use to flush after that hardly counts does it? and yes they are general household products just your company has perfected the solution amounts is this not better described. The colours look great i might add but im still bamboozled of how stupid this company thinks i am. nvm ill erm, look in to solutions more before i decide anything if this is whats to come and its clear from the charts this aint as easy as it seems
Click to expand...

I don't think you're understanding the instructions. Read them again. The blitz kit doesn't say its ph neutral, after properly using it, it will bring your system to ph neutral. There are ph strips included so you can verify this.


----------



## Mgrandy

so the 2nd solution is ph 7 then. nice free PH paper lol sorry i get it now like i said im new to coolants for Rads im a mechanic by trade thou so i have dealt with rads in the past just a few times. i just like to know what im buying and putting in my rad ive spent alot of cash etc and dont want to make a bo bo. what im chemically disposing of down the drain cough*

What can go down the drain
The only substances allowed down drains are those that meet all of the following criteria:

Nonhazardous -meh
No radioactive waste -meh
No hazardous chemical waste - who knows
No untreated biohazardous waste
Liquid - who knows
No solids, sludges, or viscous substances - meh
Will not interfere with sewage treatment operations - dont think so
No corrosive pH levels "Corrosive waste with a pH of 2.0 or lower or pH of 12.5 or higher" - yes
No grease or oil - meh
No hot (150°F or higher) temperatures in volumes of more than 10 gallons - meh

and its a wonder im stunned


----------



## Mayhem

Blitz Part 1 Is an acid how ever we state PH 2 because this is the level before it is diluted at our end and goes to 3 to 4 PH in the bottle, PH levels are dependant on how it is stored at what temp it is stored and were it is stored (all factors out of our control once it leaves us). When watered down the PH levels change once again and once used in your rad as instructed the PH change once again.

The guide is written in a way, anyone can under stand it. If we wrote it to complex people would complain. There is one thing i have thought about though we need to do the instructions in diffrent languages to cover all bases.


----------



## Mgrandy

yea thanks for clearing that up i should be good to go in-that case ive been looking at the tubing types also as per the graphs. probs consider the hard tubing unless there are any other benefits and drawbacks, obs the acrylic but going to be a nightmare to get right but if its worth doing etc may as well get it right. flex tube wouldnt look right imo. think im going to keep pump and res separate encase one or other fails and not both see how much space i got left


----------



## mixsetup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems Coolants Tubing Compatibility Chart. This Chart is for users to use the correct fluids with the correct tubing.
> 
> Ops .. re uploaded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *** Updated due to spelling mistake


Is this for all PETG tubing as I have Primochill tubing? As that's all I could find where I am at the time.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No you cannot mix them both (Pastel extreme and X1) you can mix pastel extreme with XT-1 how ever it will fall out much faster.


can regular pastel be mixed with x1? and when you say the particles will fall out faster, do you mean when the system is off and not flowing? or that the appearance will fade completely faster


----------



## Leonko

is it any difference when i use Deep Red or Non stain Dye Red with X1 ? or any reason to use other more than other?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Big difference, the standard dye/pre dyed mixes will stain blocks and of course those marker Non-Stain will not. I used Blood Red X1 w/ my RVE Monoblock and Strix 970 blocks and they were stained ( I was able to clean the gpu blocks no problem) the BitsPower mono's jet plate was made of stainless and caused a bad corrosion/reaction so I had to toss a $150+ block/floor tile (I refuse to use any more BitsPower products after this too - includes fittings)


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Big difference, the standard dye/pre dyed mixes will stain blocks and of course those marker Non-Stain will not. I used Blood Red X1 w/ my RVE Monoblock and Strix 970 blocks and they were stained ( I was able to clean the gpu blocks no problem) the BitsPower mono's jet plate was made of stainless and caused a bad corrosion/reaction so I had to toss a $150+ block/floor tile (I refuse to use any more BitsPower products after this too - includes fittings)


Wait.... wait are the EK jet plates made of? Aren't they steel as well?


----------



## Mayhem

There are many diffrent types of stainless steel some are good, some not so. Never had an issue with EK jet plates ever in any system we have had.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Bitspower used a cheap "stainless" which corroded and caused a bad reaction


----------



## Mayhem

@At above. Every one in the office is crying at that pic...... Not nice and very unusual.

on another note comparison pics of the XT-1 Nuke range (100ml concentrate)


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know it wasn't the X1 at all since ive run X1 in other loops with zero issues. Only thing that changed was my decision to try BP blocks (tubing was acrylic too)


----------



## kevindd992002

How does one put a color in their coolants when most people don't recommend dyes because they can clog up your loop? Or is everyone just brave enough to do it regardless of the risk?


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How does one put a color in their coolants when most people don't recommend dyes because they can clog up your loop? Or is everyone just brave enough to do it regardless of the risk?


Mayhems dyes won't clog anything in your loop up, the rest I can not say anything to. Mayhems products work awesome use with no fear


----------



## 414347

My nephews yellow pastel has been running for almost 2 years now and it looks the same, no color change at all, he loves it.
I use distilled with Biocide Extreme for over 2 years, awesome anti-algae product.
I truly believe if everyone would do due diligent job cleaning the whole loop from Get-go, a lot of the knowing issues that people were complaining about could have been avoided.


----------



## kevindd992002

I see. So why do people, and many renowned Youtube reviewers, tend to be against dye's?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I see. So why do people, and many renowned Youtube reviewers, tend to be against dye's?


They don't take the time to do the research. What they saw clogging their blocks was the same color as the dye so they assume its the dye. What really happened was the dye colored the stuff blocking up their loop, usually rad flux or plasticizer.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> They don't take the time to do the research. What they saw clogging their blocks was the same color as the dye so they assume its the dye. What really happened was the dye colored the stuff blocking up their loop, usually rad flux or plasticizer.


Such an eloquent way with words. My take on it? - Youtubers are idjits, most of the time. Make sure you like and subscribe, clickbait titles


----------



## kevindd992002

I see. So if I want a colored liquid, which ones do I mix? I see coolants, non-staining dyes, standard dyes, and pastel concentrates in Mayhem's website.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I see. So if I want a colored liquid, which ones do I mix? I see coolants, non-staining dyes, standard dyes, and pastel concentrates in Mayhem's website.


Any of the mayhems fluids can be mixed with their dyes. I use X1 uv green and add the laser green dye to it. You can get the coolant premixed or in concentrate that you can mix with distilled yourself.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Any of the mayhems fluids can be mixed with their dyes. I use X1 uv green and add the laser green dye to it. You can get the coolant premixed or in concentrate that you can mix with distilled yourself.


If the X1 coolant comes with colored varieties, why would you still want to dye them? Sorry for the stupid questions as I'm really new to water cooling. Originally, I wanted to get the X1 clear concentrate and mix it with distilled water myself to save on shipping costs but then I thought how cool I see colored liquids are hence the questions.

And what is the difference between a clear coolant plus dye combo and a pastel coolant?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Any of the mayhems fluids can be mixed with their dyes. I use X1 uv green and add the laser green dye to it. You can get the coolant premixed or in concentrate that you can mix with distilled yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> If the X1 coolant comes with colored varieties, why would you still want to dye them? Sorry for the stupid questions as I'm really new to water cooling. Originally, I wanted to get the X1 clear concentrate and mix it with distilled water myself to save on shipping costs but then I thought how cool I see colored liquids are hence the questions.
> 
> And what is the difference between a clear coolant plus dye combo and a pastel coolant?
Click to expand...

You would add dye to a colored fluid to get a different shade or new color that isn't already available, or even add a UV effect. Pastel is an opaque nano fluid. I used the blue pastel and added blue dye to darken it on my first build.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> You would add dye to a colored fluid to get a different shade or new color that isn't already available, or even add a UV effect. Pastel is an opaque nano fluid. I used the blue pastel and added blue dye to darken it on my first build.


I see.

So if I want an opaque color, I would buy the Pastel coolant and that already has the biocidal/anti-corrosion properties of the X1, right? Which coolant performs best?

Would adding dyes lessen the opacity of the Pastel coolant? And why would one want to go with the standard dyes when there is already a non-staining one?


----------



## kevindd992002

Do I absolutely need to purchase the Blitz Kit if I want to do Pastel?


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Do I absolutely need to purchase the Blitz Kit if I want to do Pastel?












And I was just done saying:
Quote:


> My nephews yellow pastel has been running for almost 2 years now and it looks the same, no color change at all, he loves it.
> I use distilled with Biocide Extreme for over 2 years, awesome anti-algae product.
> *I truly believe if everyone would do due diligent job cleaning the whole loop from Get-go, a lot of the knowing issues that people were complaining about could have been avoided*.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I was just done saying:


Right. But how different would it be cleaning all parts throughly with distilled water compared to using the blitz kit?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Right. But how different would it be cleaning all parts throughly with distilled water compared to using the blitz kit?


Very different. You're running a substantially higher risk of your coolant changing color quickly among other things. Better to do it right the first time than pulling your hair out wondering why everything is going wrong. Then you drain and buy new coolant and the same happens again. Just blitz it







.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Right. But how different would it be cleaning all parts throughly with distilled water compared to using the blitz kit?


If you have your parts out of your system already and you're planing on taking them apart and do manual cleaning than you be fine I guess, but radiators are the most important items to clean, that's what most of the issues cumming from.
Quote:


> Very different. You're running a substantially higher risk of your coolant changing color quickly among other things. Better to do it right the first time than pulling your hair out wondering why everything is going wrong. Then you drain and buy new coolant and the same happens again. Just blitz it


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Do I absolutely need to purchase the Blitz Kit if I want to do Pastel?


If you want it to last a long time and not change color you probably should. The good thing is you only have to run part 1 once in the lifetime of the rads. With as much as the pastel costs, its definitely worth it to invest in a blitz kit. If you don't want to mess with all of that, go with x1. You still need to do a thorough cleaning of the rads, but a full blitz kit isn't as important.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I see. So why do people, and many renowned Youtube reviewers, tend to be against dye's?


When it comes to this kind of subject youtube is kind of a bad place to go. Stick to forums, some of the youtube people make you wonder how they have subscribers. There is one i won't mention his name did a build and didn't put a drain, left out plugs which caused fluid to go everywhere, had several loose fittings. These are all things that should be double and triple checked before you even think about fluid being put in. Do leaks happen yes to everyone but leaks because you forgot a stop plug or left fittings loose as a goose should not, and def not ever NOT putting in some form of a drain for your loop. Anyways for your fluid I would go with non-staining so you don't have to worry about stains, fluids to mix with is just about all of mayhems stuff can be dyed i don't think i have ever read anything that says you can't use there own dyes.


----------



## kevindd992002

Gotcha. So when I get all my WC parts, should I clean them all with the Blitz Kit Pro or just the rads in particular? And by "long time before maintenance if you do it right the first time", how long would that be?


----------



## Mayhem

The blitz kit does some thing never thought about before in water cooling. It was a bit of a wake up call to many when we released it and did the research for it.

What the blitz kit does is

Part 1 Acid cleans you rads and makes them newer than new at times.
Part 2 clean the whole kits at the same time as neutralizing the acid in the rads ready for sensitive dyes.

There are still issues though and these lay with the manufacturers of the rads. Now companies like ThermalTake, and Alphacool do not clean there rads correctly and use low end copper. E.g ThermalTake rads are rubbish, im sorry i cannot put it any other way. Alphacool rads use low end cheap copper that is forever leaching deposits into the system. Why do they do this, well its down to whom they use to make there products. They use cheap Chinese (cheaper than normal) labour who cut corners to save money, they do it on mass and only care for the amounts they sell and not customer service. These is were your smaller companies like Aquacomputer, Watercool, and many other smaller companies have the advantage as they do not go down this route and sell a higher quality product and a real price.

Now when you talk sales Alphacool sell lots (and i do mean a lot due to there distribution around the world), so all these issues arise from there sales how ever because alphacool customer services is the worst in the world they simply put the blame on "other" companies and expect you the consumer to suck it up and be happy. That is were we come into it







, we fix there issues with the blitz Kit......

So its now down to you the user to decide if the product is right for you and how you use it.

We just lay the cards on the table for you to see how to play.


----------



## imLagging

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mas*
> 
> Ok, so normally I would drain my loop, strip down all the parts and clean them, etc, but I was thinking of trying something like this, since my current loop is brand new and I don't feel the need to actually do a clean on each individual part:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1360901/cleaning-and-flushing-radiators-with-water-filter
> 
> but for my whole loop instead of just the rads. I would be using a better filter as well, at 0.002 microns instead of 5 like the one he used.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Would filtering down to 0.002 microns remove coolant and dye (I want to change to a different colour coolant)? I've read that running gatorade through a brita filter over and over will remove the colouring and taste leaving clear liquid.
> 
> Thinking of hooking my loop up to the filter and just running the pump overnight.


Need some help with cleaning aurora booster from my system.
I did loop maintenance, new tubing and water. I cycled 3-4 gallons to get as much of the old dye and aurora out from all the radiators and deadspots. After what I thought was a good job I filled with water and a small amount of dye to only find more aurora flying around the reservoir when bleeding the loop.

I've been trying to find information about the size of nanoparticles from aurora and curious if a 0.01 micron filter like this would be enough to filter it out:
https://www.amazon.com/10-Inch-Hollow-Ultrafiltration-Membrane-Sterilization/dp/B01LKMNOMC/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LKMNOMC&pd_rd_r=HRY1RG367V61EMA57J5P&pd_rd_w=xDQdR&pd_rd_wg=J8thF&psc=1

I want to create a system like this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1360901/cleaning-and-flushing-radiators-with-water-filter , just need to figure out if the filter will work. Trying to avoid the option of running sink water through radiators for 30min - 1hour each and still having particles left. Even worse my OCD for wanting to use distilled to get any crap left from my really bad tap water







With the closed loop I woould grab a 1000-2000 lph pump and let it filter, I just really want aurora out! At this point I've even considered 3 new radiators







. Advice will be really appreciated.


----------



## Mayhem

If you use part 2 of the blitz kit (blitz basic) it should remove all Aurora from the system.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The blitz kit does some thing never thought about before in water cooling. It was a bit of a wake up call to many when we released it and did the research for it.
> 
> What the blitz kit does is
> 
> Part 1 Acid cleans you rads and makes them newer than new at times.
> Part 2 clean the whole kits at the same time as neutralizing the acid in the rads ready for sensitive dyes.
> 
> There are still issues though and these lay with the manufacturers of the rads. Now companies like ThermalTake, and Alphacool do not clean there rads correctly and use low end copper. E.g ThermalTake rads are rubbish, im sorry i cannot put it any other way. Alphacool rads use low end cheap copper that is forever leaching deposits into the system. Why do they do this, well its down to whom they use to make there products. They use cheap Chinese (cheaper than normal) labour who cut corners to save money, they do it on mass and only care for the amounts they sell and not customer service. These is were your smaller companies like Aquacomputer, Watercool, and many other smaller companies have the advantage as they do not go down this route and sell a higher quality product and a real price.
> 
> Now when you talk sales Alphacool sell lots (and i do mean a lot due to there distribution around the world), so all these issues arise from there sales how ever because alphacool customer services is the worst in the world they simply put the blame on "other" companies and expect you the consumer to suck it up and be happy. That is were we come into it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , we fix there issues with the blitz Kit......
> 
> So its now down to you the user to decide if the product is right for you and how you use it.
> 
> We just lay the cards on the table for you to see how to play.


Ok, I'm pretty much sold with the Blitz Kit Pro then, LOL. A couple of questions though:

1.) Which components do I need to clean with the kit?

2.) Is the kit usable for multiple cleaning processes?


----------



## Mayhem

The kits should clean 1 normal system. Part 1 can do upto 4 rads. These must be cleaned separate from every other components.
Part 2 is a cleaning flush for the whole system, then flush with DI water to remove any remaining Part 2 out of the system.

Full instructions are supplied with the kit and if you look on youtube for"mayhems blitz cleaning system" you will find some simple guides.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The kits should clean 1 normal system. Part 1 can do upto 4 rads. These must be cleaned separate from every other components.
> Part 2 is a cleaning flush for the whole system, then flush with DI water to remove any remaining Part 2 out of the system.
> 
> Full instructions are supplied with the kit and if you look on youtube for"mayhems blitz cleaning system" you will find some simple guides.


Ok, got it. And if done correctly, how long would a Pastel coolant last without maintenance?

Also, if, say, you change waterblocks and have to drain your system, can you re-use Pastel coolants?


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel depending on which colour you use can last from 1 year to 4 to 5 years. Yellow is the hardest to keep followed by red and orange. The most stable colours are Blue and Green (better at keeping there colours). This is all dependant on Temps, Sun light and ambient temps in your country (its like playing roulette at times). All so what rads you use can effect coolants and how long they last. There is no differentiative answers.

Its always best to clean any new equipment no matter how new or how old it is.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Ok, got it. And if done correctly, how long would a Pastel coolant last without maintenance?
> 
> Also, if, say, you change waterblocks and have to drain your system, can you re-use Pastel coolants?


My nephew's I think its sunset yellow going into 15-16 months, it looks as good as new and he used Blitz kit beforehand.

Even thou I don't use color coolants I only use DI with Biocide I use Blitz #2 about every 14-15 months to ensure cleanness of my system, it's not necessary but I know it does good job cleaning some accumulation of crap overtime, my systems temps are #1 and I took 1 of the blocks while ago to inspect the condition....Clean as new.

I made that annual maintenance of all my blocks and rest of the system e.g. tubing and such, again it's not necessary but I like my system to be in tip top condition, there is no reason taking any blocks apart ever, unless you know something big got stock in there e.g. plexi, flaking nickel plating or you got algae otherwise, Blitz does good job


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pastel depending on which colour you use can last from 1 year to 4 to 5 years. Yellow is the hardest to keep followed by red and orange. The most stable colours are Blue and Green (better at keeping there colours). This is all dependant on Temps, Sun light and ambient temps in your country (its like playing roulette at times). All so what rads you use can effect coolants and how long they last. There is no differentiative answers.
> 
> Its always best to clean any new equipment no matter how new or how old it is.


Ok. I live in a tropical country (33-35C average ambient) so that might give me less time for the Pastel to hold ita color, but yeah I understand and this is good to know.

How about white, is its color hard to keep intact? And if I use Pastel Extreme I see that it's not compatible with the Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing. What then is the best tubing that is known to be compatible with the Extreme and has good reputation of not being cloudy in the long run?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> My nephew's I think its sunset yellow going into 15-16 months, it looks as good as new and he used Blitz kit beforehand.
> 
> Even thou I don't use color coolants I only use DI with Biocide I use Blitz #2 about every 14-15 months to ensure cleanness of my system, it's not necessary but I know it does good job cleaning some accumulation of crap overtime, my systems temps are #1 and I took 1 of the blocks while ago to inspect the condition....Clean as new.
> 
> I made that annual maintenance of all my blocks and rest of the system e.g. tubing and such, again it's not necessary but I like my system to be in tip top condition, there is no reason taking any blocks apart ever, unless you know something big got stock in there e.g. plexi, flaking nickel plating or you got algae otherwise, Blitz does good job


Fair enough







You pretty made the Pastel sold to me, lol.


----------



## Mayhem

Ref tubing you will get many people with many diffrent answers.

Me in this order for XT1 Nuke or XT1

Glass easy to work with but means more fittings to get it right. (we make our own) and you have alphacool version too.
Acrylic, E22 make some good ones.
Our soft tubing / Xspc / Apparently Daz mods / Darkside tubing (but we haven't tested that as of yet, awaiting samples), EK do a good black tubing i relay like think its called some thing like ZMT but not sure (im useless at name at the best of times).

For Rads

Plenty to choose from its down to your own personal taste.. 90% are good , 5% are out standing and 5% garbage. Just avoid any thing with so called sacrificial layers at all costs.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ref tubing you will get many people with many diffrent answers.
> 
> Me in this order for XT1 Nuke or XT1
> 
> Glass easy to work with but means more fittings to get it right. (we make our own) and you have alphacool version too.
> Acrylic, E22 make some good ones.
> Our soft tubing / Xspc / Apparently Daz mods tubing (but we haven't tested that as of yet, awaiting samples), EK do a good black tubing i relay like think its called some thing like ZMT but not sure (im useless at name at the best of times).
> 
> For Rads
> 
> Plenty to choose from its down to your own personal taste.. 90% are good , 5% are out standing and 5% garbage. Just avoid any thing with so called sacrificial layers at all costs.


Ok. Can you re-use your coolants?


----------



## jura11

Hi @Mayhem

Regarding yours tubing, I'm planning to use yours UV White 13/10 soft tubing,not sure if you are not planning to do this UV tubing in other colors as I've seen them on other forums

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> My nephew's I think its sunset yellow going into 15-16 months, it looks as good as new and he used Blitz kit beforehand.
> 
> Even thou I don't use color coolants I only use DI with Biocide I use Blitz #2 about every 14-15 months to ensure cleanness of my system, it's not necessary but I know it does good job cleaning some accumulation of crap overtime, my systems temps are #1 and I took 1 of the blocks while ago to inspect the condition....Clean as new.
> 
> I made that annual maintenance of all my blocks and rest of the system e.g. tubing and such, again it's not necessary but I like my system to be in tip top condition, there is no reason taking any blocks apart ever, unless you know something big got stock in there e.g. plexi, flaking nickel plating or you got algae otherwise, Blitz does good job


15-16 months thats fair time.. well its been almost 2 months since i used sunset pastel yellow in my system and i think it looks good as day one.. i did not use blitz, what i did was flush with distilled water and vinegar (70% - 30%) for 2 hours, repeat for one hour and then rinse 3 times with just distilled water.

day one


I will post more image in a month from now..

ps. i made a "ring led light" for my reservoir and it made my sunset yellow pastel look green and i did not like it so i had to removed


----------



## 414347

Wow! that reservoir light looks pretty good, it looks as if you had UV coolant







lets just hope that the excessive light wont have any advert effect on the coolants color, otherwise looks sweet


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Wow! that reservoir light looks pretty good, it looks as if you had UV coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lets just hope that the excessive light wont have any advert effect on the coolants color, otherwise looks sweet


glad u like it here is the link if you want to look how was done http://www.overclock.net/t/1627657/homemade-reservoir-ring-led-lighting/0_40

But i had to remove the light i made because it look green.


----------



## Iceman2733

Remember Part 1 is to be used on just the radiators, put it in the radiators before the loop is assembled. Part 2 you will run through your whole loop once it is assembled. I would 100% use Part 1 vs the hot water and shake around the radiators for hours. It is painful and time costly when you can just put part 1 in the radiator and let it set overnight and it will clean them better than shaking them over and over and over. I did the shake thing and I went thru about 5 gallons of distilled water and lots of wasted time cleaning 3 radiators which are said to be some of the cleanest radiators. Do yourself a favor just do it once so you don't have to worry about it later.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> glad u like it here is the link if you want to look how was done http://www.overclock.net/t/1627657/homemade-reservoir-ring-led-lighting/0_40
> 
> But i had to remove the light i made because it look green.


Thanks for the link, nice work. I do enjoy watching people come up with new ideas and this is definitely cool









I love color coolants, one of my favorites....yellow, red, blue, black orange, purple, white...





















all of them









I use my system for very heavy work, it can heat up substantially, especially some of task that requires 24/7 so for now DI with Biocide Extreme works wonders I love Mayhems Biocide and I will continue on using it for many years to come, but maybe when I have time to build new rig for less intensive work I would go with fancy exotic color coolants for sure


----------



## mixsetup

So looking at the chart I have PETG tubing and Mayhem 1 Aurora2 and 1 red XT-1 and can not use any of it. Bit of a waste of money as neither on tubes or the bottles of coolant I have say they are not to be used with each other.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi @Mayhem
> 
> Regarding yours tubing, I'm planning to use yours UV White 13/10 soft tubing,not sure if you are not planning to do this UV tubing in other colors as I've seen them on other forums
> 
> Thanks, Jura


We do have other colours but coloured tubing is a bad seller and due to slow sales of the UV White tubing we have stopped going into other colours. we have very good samples of the UV Red and UV Blue (we allso Did UV purple, UV Pink, UV Orange and UV Green) but didn't push forwards with it, Clear tubing sales sell 50x more than coloured tubing. Mayhems only invest in products that sell well and we do not like to flood the market and re sellers with stuff they have to hold onto for long periods of time. (were not desperate for cash or sales).

The main issue for us is we have to buy in 3,000 Meter of tubing to make it at reasonable costs so that you the consumer doesn't have there eye balls ripped out and storing it in our limited warehouse is an issue especially when you have 3 colours in 3 sizes meaning we have to store 27,000 meters of tubing.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixsetup*
> 
> So looking at the chart I have PETG tubing and Mayhem 1 Aurora2 and 1 red XT-1 and can not use any of it. Bit of a waste of money as neither on tubes or the bottles of coolant I have say they are not to be used with each other.


Dunno if you reading the chart right but any thing with XT-1 in front cannot be used with PETG tubing
Any thing based on X1 can. So aurora can but XT-1 cannot .

If you do your own research and diligence you can find out why its not compatible and daze Mods has covered this in a video a while back.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5niQ0NtefM

Check the date "2015" that is 2 years ago .......


----------



## imLagging

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imLagging*
> 
> Need some help with cleaning aurora booster from my system.
> I did loop maintenance, new tubing and water. I cycled 3-4 gallons to get as much of the old dye and aurora out from all the radiators and deadspots. After what I thought was a good job I filled with water and a small amount of dye to only find more aurora flying around the reservoir when bleeding the loop.
> 
> I've been trying to find information about the size of nanoparticles from aurora and curious if a 0.01 micron filter like this would be enough to filter it out:
> https://www.amazon.com/10-Inch-Hollow-Ultrafiltration-Membrane-Sterilization/dp/B01LKMNOMC/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LKMNOMC&pd_rd_r=HRY1RG367V61EMA57J5P&pd_rd_w=xDQdR&pd_rd_wg=J8thF&psc=1
> 
> I want to create a system like this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1360901/cleaning-and-flushing-radiators-with-water-filter , just need to figure out if the filter will work. Trying to avoid the option of running sink water through radiators for 30min - 1hour each and still having particles left. Even worse my OCD for wanting to use distilled to get any crap left from my really bad tap water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the closed loop I woould grab a 1000-2000 lph pump and let it filter, I just really want aurora out! At this point I've even considered 3 new radiators
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Advice will be really appreciated.


Has anyone dealt with similar?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imLagging*
> 
> Has anyone dealt with similar?


yes but no solution. I just gave up and keep using aurora xD


----------



## mixsetup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Dunno if you reading the chart right but any thing with XT-1 in front cannot be used with PETG tubing
> Any thing based on X1 can. So aurora can but XT-1 cannot .
> 
> If you do your own research and diligence you can find out why its not compatible and daze Mods has covered this in a video a while back.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5niQ0NtefM
> 
> Check the date "2015" that is 2 years ago .......


Thanks so I'll use the Aurora till I get something else with just the X1.
Watched that video today.


----------



## 414347

I would never use PETG I would rather use flex tubing if I was going to make a choice, do it acrylic or glass once and will last you for years.
The day PETG came on the market I got 1 tube just to see how it feels in your hands .... cheep, easy to cut? yes, easier to bent? yes, but that's all, if you can cut and bet with care you do the same with acrylic and than you can use any liquid you wish


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We do have other colours but coloured tubing is a bad seller and due to slow sales of the UV White tubing we have stopped going into other colours. we have very good samples of the UV Red and UV Blue (we allso Did UV purple, UV Pink, UV Orange and UV Green) but didn't push forwards with it, Clear tubing sales sell 50x more than coloured tubing. Mayhems only invest in products that sell well and we do not like to flood the market and re sellers with stuff they have to hold onto for long periods of time. (were not desperate for cash or sales).
> 
> The main issue for us is we have to buy in 3,000 Meter of tubing to make it at reasonable costs so that you the consumer doesn't have there eye balls ripped out and storing it in our limited warehouse is an issue especially when you have 3 colours in 3 sizes meaning we have to store 27,000 meters of tubing.


Hi there

Thanks for reply

These UV tubing in other colours are available through yours website? I'm interested in UV Red there and I'm using yours Pastel red as well,but agree yours Clear tubing looks like is good one

Been using right now EK DuraClear which is starting to yellowing,that's my reason to swap,I've used like yours Mayhem Clear tubing on one part of loop and on second part loop EK,I will post pictures how they fared in my build,but looks like yours clear tubing still is clearer than EK

Thanks again for yours reply

Thanks,Jura


----------



## mixsetup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> yes but no solution. I just gave up and keep using aurora xD


Did you try the Blitz kit? just asking as that's what is running in my system at the moment and I was looking at changing it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I would never use PETG I would rather use flex tubing if I was going to make a choice, do it acrylic or glass once and will last you for years.
> The day PETG came on the market I got 1 tube just to see how it feels in your hands .... cheep, easy to cut? yes, easier to bent? yes, but that's all, if you can cut and bet with care you do the same with acrylic and than you can use any liquid you wish


Yeah think I will change the kind of tubing.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quick question. I'm about to replace my pastel ice white with more of the same and I'm curious about dilution levels.

As I recall my loop used roughly 1.5-1.8 liters so I bought 2 liters worth of concentrate.

Would it be safe or actually extra beneficial to under dilute a little? Let's say my loop is actually 1.8 liters which would be at 250ml/bottle per liter thatd be 437.5ml of concentrate added to 1362.5ml of distilled (if im math checks out).

Question is could i use that higher dilution level safely (or beneficially) if my loop is actually only 1.5 liters? Then I'd save the rest for topping off later.

Second part to the question. With the last bit i save for topping off should i store it in the bottle undiluted or is it all the same to add some distilled to the leftover for easy topping off later on? Or should I even just use the concentrate itself for topping off? 60-70ml should probably be enough for top offs.

Thanks!


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We do have other colours but coloured tubing is a bad seller and due to slow sales of the UV White tubing we have stopped going into other colours. we have very good samples of the UV Red and UV Blue (we allso Did UV purple, UV Pink, UV Orange and UV Green) but didn't push forwards with it, Clear tubing sales sell 50x more than coloured tubing. Mayhems only invest in products that sell well and we do not like to flood the market and re sellers with stuff they have to hold onto for long periods of time. (were not desperate for cash or sales).
> 
> The main issue for us is we have to buy in 3,000 Meter of tubing to make it at reasonable costs so that you the consumer doesn't have there eye balls ripped out and storing it in our limited warehouse is an issue especially when you have 3 colours in 3 sizes meaning we have to store 27,000 meters of tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi there
> 
> Thanks for reply
> 
> These UV tubing in other colours are available through yours website? I'm interested in UV Red there and I'm using yours Pastel red as well,but agree yours Clear tubing looks like is good one
> 
> Been using right now EK DuraClear which is starting to yellowing,that's my reason to swap,I've used like yours Mayhem Clear tubing on one part of loop and on second part loop EK,I will post pictures how they fared in my build,but looks like yours clear tubing still is clearer than EK
> 
> Thanks again for yours reply
> 
> Thanks,Jura
Click to expand...

I think the samples are only in one size how much do you need. I will send you some in the size we have free of charge. Send me a PM on here and ill hand over my email address.

Mick


----------



## Mayhem

If you under dilute you coolant will last longer, if you over dilute it will wont last as long. no harm in having more concentrate than needed









When storing put it under you kitchen sink and it should last a very long time. Just don't leave the cap off to long. Less air = better


----------



## Bluemustang

Thanks


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I think the samples are only in one size how much do you need. I will send you some in the size we have free of charge. Send me a PM on here and ill hand over my email address.
> 
> Mick


Hi Mick

Thank you very much and PM is on the way there:thumb:

Size if its possible in 13/10

Thanks in advance,Jura


----------



## Mayhem

jura11 check your Pms im sending you blue and red samples both UV. There inst much left as ive been using it to tie up my wife in pretty colours







she looks brill under UV tube.

You can do with it as you like , some ppl may get delirious you got some haha


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If you under dilute you coolant will last longer, if you over dilute it will wont last as long. no harm in having more concentrate than needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When storing put it under you kitchen sink and it should last a very long time. Just don't leave the cap off to long. Less air = better


Would you store it in its diluted or undiluted (concentrate) form? So it likes the moisture from the bottom of the kitchen sink?


----------



## Mayhem

Undiluted in the original bottle. The bottles dont leach so will help it last longer.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I would never use PETG I would rather use flex tubing if I was going to make a choice, do it acrylic or glass once and will last you for years.
> The day PETG came on the market I got 1 tube just to see how it feels in your hands .... cheep, easy to cut? yes, easier to bent? yes, but that's all, if you can cut and bet with care you do the same with acrylic and than you can use any liquid you wish


hi, i have different experiences, i rather use petg than acrylic, it will break easier and is hard to bend and cut. a mess


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> hi, i have different experiences, i rather use petg than acrylic, it will break easier and is hard to bend and cut. a mess


It's individuals preference and motivation. I'm no genius in tub bending nor cutting let alone dealing with acrylic and I admit I wasted few good pieces of beautiful black tubing, but once you get use to it and are aware with when you might run into difficult moments e.g. overheat of tubing and potential bubbling, tub it's not preheated enough and premature attempts of bending causing to ripple or just the complexity of your tube routing can be frustrating, but once you get the hang of it there is nothing difficult about it, but reword is great.

The fact is that acrylic will last your for years with any liquid and does not absorb any liquid, unlike PETG does and will not last that long.

As far is cracking? it does not crack, unless you drop it, oppose to PETG dries out, believe it or not and that's where the restrictions and limitations of liquid choices comes from.

I have very big 2 loop system with acrylic tubing even in the basement to keep it clean, yes it took me a while to finish it, but it's been 2-3 years now, it's perfect and again I would personally never chose PETG, but that's me.

Btw. I'm not DazMode fan, but his video regarding PETG and his research "white sheet" of compatible liquids is very informative I have to give him that, he did good job


----------



## milkguru

Can I use mayhems blitz on nickel plated blocks?

My block already has flaking occurring, and so I don't really care if the rest of the nickel is stripped. In fact I think I'd prefer stripping the rest of the nickel off, and just using it as a copper block (the inside of the block can't be seen anyway as the top isn't clear)


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Can I use mayhems blitz on nickel plated blocks?
> 
> My block already has flaking occurring, and so I don't really care if the rest of the nickel is stripped. In fact I think I'd prefer stripping the rest of the nickel off, and just using it as a copper block (the inside of the block can't be seen anyway as the top isn't clear)


I assume you mean Blitz #2

All my blocks are nickel plated (3x Titan Black, M/B, VRM, CPU) and I use Blitz #2 exclusively, every 14- 16 months cleans nicely, so you be safe, but if you have plating peeling off already I wouldn't use Blitz,#2 not yet.

I normally don't recommend taking any blocks apart, unless there is obvious issue(s) I never did, but in your case you might do all that work for nothing, some of that plating might get stock in your line, it will clog your block(s), especially CPU, than you will have to take all apart and deal with it.

I would take everything apart now, especially block that is peeling off and take all the plating off, use water base sandpaper and clean it off , put it back together and blitz your system afterwards, it will save you energy and headache and you be fine for long while again.


----------



## milkguru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I would take everything apart now, especially block that is peeling off and take all the plating off, use water base sandpaper and clean it off , put it back together and blitz your system afterwards, it will save you energy and headache and you be fine for long while again.


I'm talking about a cpu block here, there's no way I can sand in between the channels.

Last time I opened it up it had minor flaking, but that was years ago. I'd assume it'll have flaked significantly by now. Could I use an acidic solution to remove the rest of the nickel? Lemon juice, vinegar etc?


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I'm talking about a cpu block here, there's no way I can sand in between the channels.
> 
> Last time I opened it up it had minor flaking, but that was years ago. I'd assume it'll have flaked significantly by now. Could I use an acidic solution to remove the rest of the nickel? Lemon juice, vinegar etc?


I meant send it where you can and micro channels you usually clean with toot brash as much as you can to ensure there is no remaining flakes.

Wouldn't opening CPU and visual inspection make you feel better and to be sure there is none flakes in there rather than guessing after using any cleaner, even Acid?

I know Acid solution is good for rads, how that would work on your CPU...can't tell, sorry.


----------



## imLagging

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> yes but no solution. I just gave up and keep using aurora xD


Aurora looks amazing for showcase computers, it lost color in mine faster than I hoped.
I will post a ticket to support and see if they will answer the size of nanoparticles so I can find out if the filter will work. I really want to get the aurora out!
I asked the person I originally quoted for help through message but he hasn't logged in for weeks.


----------



## Mayhem

Support cannot answer your question on size of nano particles as they are diffrent sizes from 10 nm up to 500nm with some just sub Micron to aid in the effect.

*Do not use filters with Aurora.*


----------



## imLagging

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Support cannot answer your question on size of nano particles as they are diffrent sizes from 10 nm up to 500nm with some just sub Micron to aid in the effect.
> 
> *Do not use filters with Aurora.*


You just answered the question







, thanks
10nm-500nm is enough for me to try the filter loop. I won't mind a few specs of sub micron particles that I won't see.

The filter will be to remove aurora. System similar to this http://www.overclock.net/t/1360901/cleaning-and-flushing-radiators-with-water-filter but with a 0.01 micron filter. I just can't leave rads flushing for hours hoping it gets removed, would rather run a closed loop with 1000-2000lph pump to make sure I can move the particles out of radiators and trapped into the filter.


----------



## kevindd992002

If I want to go with a system that uses UV, would I just need a UV-reactive coolant? Or do I need a UV-reactive tube as well? And what UV lights do I need to get? Do all of the computer UV lights seem to be purple in color?


----------



## mixsetup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Support cannot answer your question on size of nano particles as they are diffrent sizes from 10 nm up to 500nm with some just sub Micron to aid in the effect.
> 
> *Do not use filters with Aurora.*


So is there anyway to get rid of it all? Will the Blitz kit work?


----------



## milkguru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If I want to go with a system that uses UV, would I just need a UV-reactive coolant? Or do I need a UV-reactive tube as well? And what UV lights do I need to get? Do all of the computer UV lights seem to be purple in color?


Yeah you only need UV reactive dye/coolant OR UV reactive tubing. You don't need both.

UV is ultra violet light, it's actually invisible to the human eye. however, when you buy UV lights, some of the light they emit is just below the ultra violet spectrum and is a visible violet. That's why they're all purple.

For PC, you can get either UV LED or UV cold cathode. There are a lot of reports that say the LEDs basically destroy the UV reactive properties of the dye/tubing and tend to fade things. UV cold cathode are much better in this regard, and your UV reactive components will stay UV reactive for much longer.

However, cold cathodes require a little inverter - it'll come with the cathode of course, but it just means you'll have to fit a little box somewhere in the case. Not a huge issue.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixsetup*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Support cannot answer your question on size of nano particles as they are diffrent sizes from 10 nm up to 500nm with some just sub Micron to aid in the effect.
> 
> *Do not use filters with Aurora.*
> 
> 
> 
> So is there anyway to get rid of it all? Will the Blitz kit work?
Click to expand...

Blitz kit is your best bet. I had a whole bottle of aurora booster in my loop and blitz took care of it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If I want to go with a system that uses UV, would I just need a UV-reactive coolant? Or do I need a UV-reactive tube as well? And what UV lights do I need to get? Do all of the computer UV lights seem to be purple in color?


Cathodes and Darkside LED strips work the best. The cablemods widebeam strips are pretty good as well. I'm using x1 uv green coolant and it is uv reactive, but I added a bunch of the laser green uv dye to get it to glow a lot better. The uv effect will fade over time so you may want to get a bottle of uv dye for whichever color you're going for.


----------



## imLagging

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixsetup*
> 
> So is there anyway to get rid of it all? Will the Blitz kit work?


Blitz kit works well if you can flush out radiators for long period of time like 30min-1hr++.
Getting part 2 out really requires extensive flushing to get all residue out. I have a few blitz kits left over and I can tell you that 10 galllons of DI won't remove it from multiple rads. If my tap water wasn't so garbage I would buy some fittings and create an adapter to plug into radiators. I do want the closed loop because it will work for future flushes, I also can avoid blitz part 2 hassle.


----------



## mixsetup

Thanks I will try the blitz kit. 10 gallons think that's like 37 liters wow, I'm going to need a lot of bottles of water.

A bloke on Youtube who used the Aurora said he

"Hi, yes it leaves a trace of the pearlescent in the loop on pretty much every surface. It breaks down and cleans easily with isopropanol, I use a dilution mix of about 10% for cleaning this coolant out"

That he said 10% with DI water, need to find where to buy some.

I'll give them both a go until it is gone thanks.

Maybe then buy acrylic tubes instead of PETG so I have more of a choice of what coolant I can use like the XT-1 I have sitting here.


----------



## imLagging

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixsetup*
> 
> Thanks I will try the blitz kit. 10 gallons think that's like 37 liters wow, I'm going to need a lot of bottles of water.
> 
> A bloke on Youtube who used the Aurora said he
> 
> "Hi, yes it leaves a trace of the pearlescent in the loop on pretty much every surface. It breaks down and cleans easily with isopropanol, I use a dilution mix of about 10% for cleaning this coolant out"
> 
> That he said 10% with DI water, need to find where to buy some.
> 
> I'll give them both a go until it is gone thanks.
> 
> Maybe then buy acrylic tubes instead of PETG so I have more of a choice of what coolant I can use like the XT-1 I have sitting here.


Good luck with yours! Remember flushing with a closed loop it just recirculates any remnant and residue. Also regular flushes with no pressure doesn't seem to help removing either aurora particles or blitz part2.
I believe this is why the video instructs to flush with the tap method and from personal experience I see why it's recommended. I guess difficulty varies in how easy a loop is to take apart and how many blocks or radiators are involved.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milkguru*
> 
> Yeah you only need UV reactive dye/coolant OR UV reactive tubing. You don't need both.
> 
> UV is ultra violet light, it's actually invisible to the human eye. however, when you buy UV lights, some of the light they emit is just below the ultra violet spectrum and is a visible violet. That's why they're all purple.
> 
> For PC, you can get either UV LED or UV cold cathode. There are a lot of reports that say the LEDs basically destroy the UV reactive properties of the dye/tubing and tend to fade things. UV cold cathode are much better in this regard, and your UV reactive components will stay UV reactive for much longer.
> 
> However, cold cathodes require a little inverter - it'll come with the cathode of course, but it just means you'll have to fit a little box somewhere in the case. Not a huge issue.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Blitz kit is your best bet. I had a whole bottle of aurora booster in my loop and blitz took care of it.
> Cathodes and Darkside LED strips work the best. The cablemods widebeam strips are pretty good as well. I'm using x1 uv green coolant and it is uv reactive, but I added a bunch of the laser green uv dye to get it to glow a lot better. The uv effect will fade over time so you may want to get a bottle of uv dye for whichever color you're going for.


Any particular Cold Cathode in mind? And how much do I need?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixsetup*
> 
> Thanks I will try the blitz kit. 10 gallons think that's like 37 liters wow, I'm going to need a lot of bottles of water.
> 
> A bloke on Youtube who used the Aurora said he
> 
> "Hi, yes it leaves a trace of the pearlescent in the loop on pretty much every surface. It breaks down and cleans easily with isopropanol, I use a dilution mix of about 10% for cleaning this coolant out"
> 
> That he said 10% with DI water, need to find where to buy some.
> 
> I'll give them both a go until it is gone thanks.
> 
> Maybe then buy acrylic tubes instead of PETG so I have more of a choice of what coolant I can use like the XT-1 I have sitting here.


*DO NOT USE ALCHOL ON YOUR SYSTEM EVER* Not only does it destroy rubber seals it can crack / fracture any type of plexi. Some youtube advise its just stupid with no thought about what issue they can have later on down the line.


----------



## Stealthster

Been checking the update of Aurora 3 linked here
https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/mayhems-aurora-3-pastel-2-tubing-michael-wood

Any news on the subject?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *DO NOT USE ALCHOL ON YOUR SYSTEM EVER* Not only does it destroy rubber seals it can crack / fracture any type of plexi. Some youtube advise its just stupid with no thought about what issue they can have later on down the line.


As a (previous ASE) mechanic I agree here completely (alot in water cooling a PC crosses over to autos as well)


----------



## mixsetup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> *DO NOT USE ALCHOL ON YOUR SYSTEM EVER* Not only does it destroy rubber seals it can crack / fracture any type of plexi. Some youtube advise its just stupid with no thought about what issue they can have later on down the line.


Thanks I will stay away from it and just use your Blitz kit. Thanks


----------



## mixsetup

Aurora 3
Working for 3 months. hope they get it to last a lot longer then it would be great to have in a loop.


----------



## mixsetup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imLagging*
> 
> Good luck with yours! Remember flushing with a closed loop it just recirculates any remnant and residue. Also regular flushes with no pressure doesn't seem to help removing either aurora particles or blitz part2.
> I believe this is why the video instructs to flush with the tap method and from personal experience I see why it's recommended. I guess difficulty varies in how easy a loop is to take apart and how many blocks or radiators are involved.


thanks I'll have to hook it up to a tap then.

My loop is simple just the CPU as haven't got a GPU block for my 280x.

My parts are
Aquacomputer cuplex kryos Delrin waterblock
EK - XRES 250mm DDC Reservoir
EK D5 Laing Vario Pump
EK CoolStream PE 360 Triple Radiator
PrimoChill 3/8" id 1/2" od Rigid PETG Tube
Primochill revolver rigid tube fittings.
Valve and other fittings EK

Going to replace the tubing as I started to run out of tubes as it was my first go at rigid.
So I don't have to worry about getting the tubes clean the most important will be the other parts.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixsetup*
> 
> Aurora 3
> Working for 3 months. hope they get it to last a lot longer then it would be great to have in a loop.


iirc the last Aurora version I put in was v4. It did shockingly well on my overkill loop with 5 rads, 3 blocks and 15-90° fittings, kinda want to try it in a smaller loop but I don't build small loops


----------



## mixsetup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> iirc the last Aurora version I put in was v4. It did shockingly well on my overkill loop with 5 rads, 3 blocks and 15-90° fittings, kinda want to try it in a smaller loop but I don't build small loops


So did it last long?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mixsetup*
> 
> So did it last long?


It went about 4 months before I broke the loop down for other reasons and I haven't gotten it back to a permanent state yet to get more aurora in there again. It definitely still faded out, but slowly and there are ways to kick it back up. Assuming your pc is small enough you can rotate the case and basically get a few bubbles to run the loop and agitate the settled particles. Since my rads/pumps were built in to a table I was using QDC's to reverse my loop flow and bypass various parts to get more particles in suspension. Seemed to work OK but I just wasn't happy with the loop aesthetic for other reasons
http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/14310_30#post_25705390


----------



## Stealthster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> iirc the last Aurora version I put in was v4. It did shockingly well on my overkill loop with 5 rads, 3 blocks and 15-90° fittings, kinda want to try it in a smaller loop but I don't build small loops


So Im guessing that V3 and V4 are not available to the public? Any Idea on when it will be and what the current state is?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealthster*
> 
> So Im guessing that V3 and V4 are not available to the public? Any Idea on when it will be and what the current state is?


I bought mine from performance-pcs.com. I don't have any of the bottles left otherwise I'd check to be sure

edit: pretty sure it was v4
http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/14160_30#post_25557127


----------



## Stealthster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I bought mine from performance-pcs.com. I don't have any of the bottles left otherwise I'd check to be sure
> 
> edit: pretty sure it was v4
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/14160_30#post_25557127


Looking at those the are all listed as Aurora 2. Is there a specific model number that differentiates the them that I can reference to?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealthster*
> 
> Looking at those the are all listed as Aurora 2. Is there a specific model number that differentiates the them that I can reference to?


not to my knowledge, i looked at my invoice history and the SKU was MAS250ML. They are usually very friendly and I'm sure if you call before ordering they will check to see which they have in stock for the particular one you're interested in







They are used to very picky people I think, comes with the territory


----------



## yakiddenme

Love the way pastel blue and UV sky blue (maybe ice white, cant remember what I ordered) look under the cold cathode tubes. Not finished sleeving cables yet but the loop came out well. I've had some issues lately though with what appears to be algea growing in my loop. Not sure how this is possible as i orded the pre-mix from mayhem that comes loaded with growtb inhibitors. Also had the issue of not one, but two of my 980 ti's have an r33 inductor fry on them, hopefully RMA works out. Not to mention the 6 EK Vardar fans I killed by mixing up a ppsitive and negative wire, oh well haha. Loop isnt perfect but I have new parts on the way, will try to keep everyone posted as ro how the outcome looks. Also worth mentioning is how quickly the UV dye faded out, not sure how to prolong its UV reactivity any longer than a few weeks.


----------



## Mayhem

sounds like your having issues all over the place.


----------



## yakiddenme

Yeah, hardware related is mostly sorted at this point. Valuable lesson learned, don't work when tired. Are there any recommended UV lights for use eith the X1 clear UV additive?


----------



## yakiddenme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> After running Pastel Blue for 3 months that I bought from Performance-PC's, there looks to be some kind of green growth forming in the tube reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> I can't say that I'm happy about it. It's going to take me a while to take apart and clean this loop.


I'm having the same exact issue with the same exact coolant.
https://goo.gl/photos/JNV6b3FYRCBd5WMg6
https://goo.gl/photos/dtdkFApCS31T1gk87


----------



## Mayhem

yeh that flux from the rads,


----------



## yakiddenme

Thanks, PM'd you again


----------



## Mayhem

Auora that we make atm is V4, we dropped the aurora 2 name along time ago and replaced it with V numbers in the top right hand corner of the label (on premixed versions) but the same is in the concentrate versions.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: Anyone know if the new XT-1 Nuke is safe to use with AlphaCool Satin tubing without removing the frosted color from the tubing?


----------



## Mayhem

We haven't tested it, how ever Mod my Mods is sending me some for testing and we will post results.


----------



## Alpina 7

What is up guys I hope everyone's doing OK Havnt been in this thread in a long time. So right now I have the corsair 760T and I'm trying to figure out what I need to do to upgrade to a P5 but I'm trying to figure out my water cooling situation. Right now I have 2 EK predator 360s in my case one in the top and one on the bottom and I'm wondering what will fit on the P5 I know you could put one large radiator in the front is there any room for my two predators in the back of the case I don't want to let them just sit in a closet I paid good money for them and Id like to utilize them any ideas guys? Here's a picture of my case

Or for the time being any ideas on how to shorten my runs or redo my loop to look "cleaner"


----------



## Craigk19

that's a lot of rads for just a cpu loop if you could add the gpu into the loop you could make it look a lot cleaner!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We haven't tested it, how ever Mod my Mods is sending me some for testing and we will post results.


ok, That's very nice of them. Any ETA when you can expect the results?

From what I know the frosted material is on the outside of the tubing.


----------



## cloppy007

@Mayhem I'm about to perform my yearly maintenance. Here's what I'll do:
· Drain
· Visual inspection and brush cleaning of gpu and cpu blocks
· (reassemble)
· pressure test
· run the loop with an external pump and water filter (with tap water) to clean all possible remaining particles
· Mayhems Blitz pt 2 (pt 1 was applied 1-2 years ago)

Would you alter the order?

I was going to use a bottle of EK EVO clear coolant I have around, but I see that it was manufactured almost 3 years ago... I also have Mayhems extreme biocide which I've never actually used because I have a few of those Monsoon silver plated fittings (and reading about red plague scared me off). Can I be safe-ish with one of those options? Only copper blocks here, plus alphacool rads (leper rads).


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's sounds like a good plan, personally I'd just run distilled through instead of tap water. Also running pt 2 then flush again is good too


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We haven't tested it, how ever Mod my Mods is sending me some for testing and we will post results.
> 
> 
> 
> ok, That's very nice of them. Any ETA when you can expect the results?
> 
> From what I know the frosted material is on the outside of the tubing.
Click to expand...

It takes 2 to 3 weeks for testing fully. As soon as testing is complete and a report has been written up for internal use we will add it to the list. this can be upwards of 1 month in total. Sorry testing takes time if it is to be done correctly.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cloppy007*
> 
> @Mayhem I'm about to perform my yearly maintenance. Here's what I'll do:
> · Drain
> · Visual inspection and brush cleaning of gpu and cpu blocks
> · (reassemble)
> · pressure test
> · run the loop with an external pump and water filter (with tap water) to clean all possible remaining particles
> · Mayhems Blitz pt 2 (pt 1 was applied 1-2 years ago)
> 
> Would you alter the order?
> 
> I was going to use a bottle of EK EVO clear coolant I have around, but I see that it was manufactured almost 3 years ago... I also have Mayhems extreme biocide which I've never actually used because I have a few of those Monsoon silver plated fittings (and reading about red plague scared me off). Can I be safe-ish with one of those options? Only copper blocks here, plus alphacool rads (leper rads).


Sounds good to me, tap water is fine (in the UK it is i do not know about any other country) but you must run though with good clean water once finished. If you do not your asking for issues. If the product ws made by us it will be fine, if not i cannot answer. best not to mix Biocide Extreme with monsoon silver your asking for trouble. Stick with normal coolant or pastel. Leper rads lMOA ..... Love it.


----------



## Alpina 7

Could someone show me what mayhems purple pastel actually looks like?


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Could someone show me what mayhems purple pastel actually looks like?


here are a few off google image search


----------



## cloppy007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That's sounds like a good plan, personally I'd just run distilled through instead of tap water. Also running pt 2 then flush again is good too


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That's sounds like a good plan, personally I'd just run distilled through instead of tap water. Also running pt 2 then flush again is good too


I will run DI right after tap water or perhaps just DI, and also flush again pt2, otherwise it will be soapy!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sounds good to me, tap water is fine (in the UK it is i do not know about any other country) but you must run though with good clean water once finished. If you do not your asking for issues. If the product ws made by us it will be fine, if not i cannot answer. best not to mix Biocide Extreme with monsoon silver your asking for trouble. Stick with normal coolant or pastel. Leper rads lMOA ..... Love it.


Thanks a lot! I think I'll go with the EK coolant and keep an eye on the acrylic cpu block (I always do every now and then).

And those rads... they keep on dropping debris no matter how many times you flush them (pt1, boiled distilled, tap water...) and that gets deposited in my cpu block. It doesn't have any measurable impact on performance (or so I think), but I wonder why they did not prevent this (cost cutting, sure)


----------



## Alpina 7

Hmm I was hoping for more of a Barney purple so to speak


----------



## sanick

Why did I buy 3 years supply of pastel white extreme before I saw how awesome distilled water looks in the mayhems 16mm glass tubing!? And this was before I cleaned them up!


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Hmm I was hoping for more of a Barney purple so to speak


with dyes you can get it any shade of purple you would like


----------



## Revan654

a Few questions about the XT-1 Nuke, If anyone knows the answers.

1. With the non-Stain dyes, Could it be used with XT-1 Nuke?
2. Could the dyes be used with XT-1 Nuke UV Blue to darken the blue and still keep the UV effect?
3. Would their be any kind of issue if my watercooling loop has a filter (AquaComputer)? I know Aurora line has issues due to particles.
4. I'm a little confused with the mix ratio, How much distilled water do I need to add? I'm putting this into a normal system, everything is copper based.

- Thanks


----------



## cloppy007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanick*
> 
> Why did I buy 3 years supply of pastel white extreme before I saw how awesome distilled water looks in the mayhems 16mm glass tubing!? And this was before I cleaned them up!


wow!


----------



## kevindd992002

@Mayhem

Why is the Pastel not compatible with the clear Primochill Advanced LRT tubing?


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Why did I buy 3 years supply of pastel white extreme before I saw how awesome distilled water looks in the mayhems 16mm glass tubing!? And this was before I cleaned them up!




I'm into distilled and Mayhems Biocide Extreme in my systems, my water is crystal clear for months







but this.....look sick







what a difference in clarity and the glass its giving you the illusion of magnifying the size of the tubing, it's just not fair


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> a Few questions about the XT-1 Nuke, If anyone knows the answers.
> 
> 1. With the non-Stain dyes, Could it be used with XT-1 Nuke?
> 2. Could the dyes be used with XT-1 Nuke UV Blue to darken the blue and still keep the UV effect?
> 3. Would their be any kind of issue if my watercooling loop has a filter (AquaComputer)? I know Aurora line has issues due to particles.
> 4. I'm a little confused with the mix ratio, How much distilled water do I need to add? I'm putting this into a normal system, everything is copper based.
> 
> - Thanks


1) Yes, in fact some of the premixed 100ml colours use non stain dyes.
2) yes but the more dye you add the less UV effect you get. This is Why UV red is never very UV active.
3) Im 100 against use any kind of filter in any system. 1 blockage and your FUBAR. I have never used a filter in 18+ years of water cooling.
4) mix ratio of XT-1 Nuke is 1 to 9, so 100ml of XT-1 Nuke to 900ml of pure water. If you whish to go sub zero increase the ammount of XT-1 Nuke varying from 10% up to a maximum of 60%.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> Why is the Pastel not compatible with the clear Primochill Advanced LRT tubing?


Pastel Extreme is ethylene glycol based, Normal Pastel is not so Pastel Extreme as advised by primochill should not be used and you should use Pastel.


----------



## Mayhem

Some thing ive been playing with. Lots of ppl all ways ask is there a real Pastel UV Orange .. Well i think ive cracked it for a true UV reactive Orange in a very new version of pastel


----------



## milkguru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alpina 7*
> 
> Hmm I was hoping for more of a Barney purple so to speak


if you buys some blue and red dye, you may be able to achieve a purple closer to what you want. there needs to be more red in the purple for your shade.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> here are a few off google image search
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3020989/width/350/height/700
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3020991/width/350/height/700


those two colours are different.... i don't think the top one is mayhems purple. it's different to all the other images on google too


this seems to be what the colour actually looks like


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pastel Extreme is ethylene glycol based, Normal Pastel is not so Pastel Extreme as advised by primochill should not be used and you should use Pastel.


Thanks.

So if I want to have UV effect, only the Pastel UV Green and Pastel UV Lime Yellow can be used? What happens if I use Pastel Blue with UV lights?

And I know this is a silly thing to ask, but which is better between Mayhems Ultra Clear tubing and Primoflex Advanced LRT clear?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> So if I want to have UV effect, only the Pastel UV Green and Pastel UV Lime Yellow can be used? What happens if I use Pastel Blue with UV lights?
> 
> And I know this is a silly thing to ask, but which is better between Mayhems Ultra Clear tubing and Primoflex Advanced LRT clear?


I prefer mayhem's, LRT is too stiff for me and way more expensive last i checked


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I prefer mayhem's, LRT is too stiff for me and way more expensive last i checked


I see. Isn't more stiff better to avoid kinks?


----------



## kevindd992002

@Mayhem

And does the Pastel work with anti-cylone sponges in the reservoirs? AFAIK, those also act like filters, right?


----------



## Craigk19

Mayhem's strongly advise against any filters with their fluid, as long as you use the blitz kit and properly flush out the rads, and loop there is no reason to even need filters!


----------



## cloppy007

Those coarse PU sponges are no filter, there will be no blockage using them. I think they are only intended to remove big bubbles and vortices in cylindrical reservoirs.


----------



## Craigk19

just time alone will get the bubbles out too, as long as you get the bigger ones out of the loop the small ones will over time disappear as well


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cloppy007*
> 
> Those coarse PU sponges are no filter, there will be no blockage using them. I think they are only intended to remove big bubbles and vortices in cylindrical reservoirs.


Correct. I don't think these are filters in theirselves. They're anti-cyclone sponges. But I still want to confirm.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> I see. Isn't more stiff better to avoid kinks?


i never had an issue with it kinking but I was never doing any crazy bends either.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 1) Yes, in fact some of the premixed 100ml colours use non stain dyes.
> 2) yes but the more dye you add the less UV effect you get. This is Why UV red is never very UV active.
> 3) Im 100 against use any kind of filter in any system. 1 blockage and your FUBAR. I have never used a filter in 18+ years of water cooling.
> 4) mix ratio of XT-1 Nuke is 1 to 9, so 100ml of XT-1 Nuke to 900ml of pure water. If you whish to go sub zero increase the ammount of XT-1 Nuke varying from 10% up to a maximum of 60%.


Thank you for the quick reply.

I have the filter, I would just hate for it to go to waste. It's been nothing but a pain to to get into my system & have integrated into my loop.


----------



## sanick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm into distilled and Mayhems Biocide Extreme in my systems, my water is crystal clear for months
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but this.....look sick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what a difference in clarity and the glass its giving you the illusion of magnifying the size of the tubing, it's just not fair


Hmm... I think I'll go with the pastel I have for now. That means in the future I can make some changes and change the theme a bit to be even stealthier. Get a non transparent GPU block and a custom glass tube made for my MMRS res. Swap around my fan mounts or even dye them grey since noctua don't offer that.

... Maybe in a couple years


----------



## DarthBaggins

Hoping to order 5ft of Maybe Ultraclear tubing and Pastel Extreme to run in my loop. Just need to flush the EK EVO fluid out once I'm ready to swap over. Would love to not have to change my fluid for 3 years etc.


----------



## sanick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Hoping to order 5ft of Maybe Ultraclear tubing and Pastel Extreme to run in my loop. Just need to flush the EK EVO fluid out once I'm ready to swap over. Would love to not have to change my fluid for 3 years etc.


I swear I read something a while back about in increasing the concentration of pastel extreme and being able to leave it for years. On the bottle it recommends 50ml per litre, a 5% mix, but bumping it up to 15% could get you up to 3 years of use.

I'm pretty sure I read it in this thread and that it was posted by someone working at Mayhems, but I can't seem to find it now. Anyone know is this is true?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanick*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Hoping to order 5ft of Maybe Ultraclear tubing and Pastel Extreme to run in my loop. Just need to flush the EK EVO fluid out once I'm ready to swap over. Would love to not have to change my fluid for 3 years etc.
> 
> 
> 
> I swear I read something a while back about in increasing the concentration of pastel extreme and being able to leave it for years. On the bottle it recommends 50ml per litre, a 5% mix, but bumping it up to 15% could get you up to 3 years of use.
> 
> I'm pretty sure I read it in this thread and that it was posted by someone working at Mayhems, but I can't seem to find it now. Anyone know is this is true?
Click to expand...

15% would give you longer use that is correct.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> And does the Pastel work with anti-cylone sponges in the reservoirs? AFAIK, those also act like filters, right?


@Mayhem

Follow up on this?


----------



## Mayhem

there fine but keep an eye on them.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> there fine but keep an eye on them.


Ok. How does the Mayhems clear tubing compare with the PrimoFlex clear tubing in terms of clouding issues?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> Mayhem's strongly advise against any filters with their fluid, as long as you use the blitz kit and properly flush out the rads, and loop there is no reason to even need filters!


Like I said I would hate it to go to waste. Also their some acrylic dust left over in the middle of the tubing. Since the tubing is already installed, It would be some what difficult getting the tubing out again.

I already ran blitz kits (Part 1 & Part 2) through my rads. I also have my own custom standalone flush system I used to clean out as much as possible from the radiators.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. How does the Mayhems clear tubing compare with the PrimoFlex clear tubing in terms of clouding issues?


Just as good or better in my experience. I'm never buying Adv LRT again as long as Mayhems tubing is available, the price is lovely. Mod My Mods seems to have slightly better prices on Mayhems products in general too, picked up some tubing and XT-1 from there a few months ago.


----------



## cloppy007

I've flushed my 2 rads one by one and then the whole loop with the bucket, pump and filter method. I can't almost believe how much crap was inside, even after 3 years and all the times I've cleaned these parts.

@Mayhem I'm now running part 2 through the loop, but I don't see bubbles inside. I did while mixing with deionised water and filling, but I recall that it used to produce lots of bubbles.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok. How does the Mayhems clear tubing compare with the PrimoFlex clear tubing in terms of clouding issues?


Hi there

I've only know my friend who run Advanced LRT on his build but he got lots of issues with leaching and yellowing, I've run on my loop EK DuraClear which started to yellowing after 5-6 months and due this I went with Mayhem UV White and on friend loop we are trying Mayhem Ultra Clear, with both loops we are running Mayhem Pastel,personally running Red and friend running Pastel Extreme White

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Just as good or better in my experience. I'm never buying Adv LRT again as long as Mayhems tubing is available, the price is lovely. Mod My Mods seems to have slightly better prices on Mayhems products in general too, picked up some tubing and XT-1 from there a few months ago.


Thanks for the tip. Are there any other WC stuff that modmymods generally sell cheaper than PPCS? I'll be needing to buy stuff for a whole build so it wouldbe great if I knew where to buy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> I've only know my friend who run Advanced LRT on his build but he got lots of issues with leaching and yellowing, I've run on my loop EK DuraClear which started to yellowing after 5-6 months and due this I went with Mayhem UV White and on friend loop we are trying Mayhem Ultra Clear, with both loops we are running Mayhem Pastel,personally running Red and friend running Pastel Extreme White
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Great! Let me know by if you encounter any issues in the long run. Thanks.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks for the tip. Are there any other WC stuff that modmymods generally sell cheaper than PPCS? I'll be needing to buy stuff for a whole build so it wouldbe great if I knew where to buy.
> Great! Let me know by if you encounter any issues in the long run. Thanks.


Hi there

I would agree with the price of the Mayhem tubing price,I paid for 5m of UV White £15 and Ultra Clear I think is cheaper 1m cost around £1.69

I have used only Ultra Clear on one part of my previous loop and definitely there hasn't been any sign of the yellowing after 5-6 months and tubing has looked good

Just I would add there,if you are looking to do tight bends it will kinks maybe more than with other tubing,have used few tubings but still is manageable to do tighter bends with UV White or Ultra Clear 13/10

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Thanks for the tip. Are there any other WC stuff that modmymods generally sell cheaper than PPCS? I'll be needing to buy stuff for a whole build so it wouldbe great if I knew where to buy.
> Great! Let me know by if you encounter any issues in the long run. Thanks.


The Barrow fittings at MMM are really nice for the price.


----------



## Mayhem

Our tubing now and then, does cloud slightly depending on conditions, it takes time but hi heat load system you will see this happen. For a comparisons of primochill Vs mayhems = http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/05/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/all/1/

We consider Tubing a throw away item hence the price reflects this.


----------



## Wally West

I have water discoloration after three weeks using mayhem red pastel. It was turning brownish. I cleaned everything with around 2L of vinegar and rinse everything with 4L of hot distilled water. I cleaned all the waterblocks with a toothbrush. took my almost a day to be certain everything was cleaned.

Yesterday the water was looking like this, which is kind of stupid after 3 weeks.


----------



## TheGin

Recently just finished my build with pastel white.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGin*
> 
> Recently just finished my build with pastel white.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The blue EK stickers. They are still there. You did not remove them.








OK that's just my pet peeve but I thought I'd mention that in case you missed them.


----------



## Revan654

- My first four bottles of XT-1 Nuke UV Blue, I still have one more bottle coming in shortly.


----------



## Mayhem

The Uv is very active in them bottles you wont need a dye.

Welcome to the nuke generation, next is Oblivion.









Mick


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The Uv is very active in them bottles you wont need a dye.
> 
> Welcome to the nuke generation, next is Oblivion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mick


I got the dye mainly if the blue is not dark enough.


----------



## TheGin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmpxchg8b*
> 
> The blue EK stickers. They are still there. You did not remove them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK that's just my pet peeve but I thought I'd mention that in case you missed them.


haha ya I actually keep telling myself I would remove them the next time I take the side panel off. I still haven't done it yet and I added the sleeved 24pin a few days before that picture


----------



## milkguru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The Uv is very active in them bottles you wont need a dye.
> 
> Welcome to the nuke generation, next is Oblivion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mick


How long do they stay UV reactive for?

Cause I've heard people say after a few weeks, the UV reactivity of their dye is basically gone.


----------



## Mayhem

The old dyes we used to use a few years back didn't last long, as long as your PH is stable it will last a while, We have also increased the amount used.


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Like I said I would hate it to go to waste. Also their some acrylic dust left over in the middle of the tubing. Since the tubing is already installed, It would be some what difficult getting the tubing out again.
> 
> I already ran blitz kits (Part 1 & Part 2) through my rads. I also have my own custom standalone flush system I used to clean out as much as possible from the radiators.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cloppy007*
> 
> I've flushed my 2 rads one by one and then the whole loop with the bucket, pump and filter method. I can't almost believe how much crap was inside, even after 3 years and all the times I've cleaned these parts.
> 
> @Mayhem I'm now running part 2 through the loop, but I don't see bubbles inside. I did while mixing with deionised water and filling, but I recall that it used to produce lots of bubbles.


I put together a very similar setup to prepare my four new HWLabs SR2 multiports.

Filled with 80C hot water and did radiator dance.
Blitz Part A for 12 hours followed by flushing through with mains water to neutralise the acid. Used one of these pressure reducer doohickeys to avoid the mains pressure blowing out the rads:


Then I followed up with a DI water flush using a bucket, water filter and cheap pond pump setup, similar to you guys. Ran each rad for 8 hours. The amount of crap caught by the filter was amazing. The filter was white, now it's yellow. And I can see loads of macro sized particulates in the filter too.

Next step is to throw some more DI water into those rads, remove it again and check the PH levels.


----------



## Andrew LB

Is anyone in the US selling XT-1 Nuke (UV Blue) other than ModMyMods? I was hoping Performance-PCs would stock it since I use prime shipping through their amazon store.

I've been using Mayhem's X1 for about 5 months and have seen a reduction in coolant flow rate from 0.92 gpm to 0.73 gpm which is due to crap in my loop from my two XSPC radiators even though i did clean them with hot water and vinegar when they were brand new. Probably should have done a much more thorough cleaning because I can see some stuff in the micro-fins of my Aquacomputer Kryographics block which is already a pretty restrictive block as it is. So i'm planning on taking things apart, doing some serious cleaning of my rads with phosphoric acid, and replacing my old X1 with the new XT-1 Nuke. I'd prefer to stay with UV reactive coolants since any leak is immediately visible thanks to my 4x 12" UV cold cathodes.


----------



## Yukss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> I have water discoloration after three weeks using mayhem red pastel. It was turning brownish. I cleaned everything with around 2L of vinegar and rinse everything with 4L of hot distilled water. I cleaned all the waterblocks with a toothbrush. took my almost a day to be certain everything was cleaned.
> 
> Yesterday the water was looking like this, which is kind of stupid after 3 weeks.


thats sad dude, im so worry to this happen to me, its been almost 3 months since i have been using mayhem sunset yellow pastel


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The old dyes we used to use a few years back didn't last long, as long as your PH is stable it will last a while, We have also increased the amount used.


While PH is a factor, wouldn't you agree that light, particularly longer wavelengths of UV and the visible light spectrum do far more to degrade (wash out) pigments, particularly red ones, than pretty much any other contributing factor? I ask this because at first glance, the color change in Wally West's coolant appears quite similar to changes I've seen in high light environments in my field of work (firearm and antique restoration) where I work with a variety of dyes and pigments ranging from aniline to highly UV resistant metal-complexed powdered dyes soluble in organic solvents or alcohols, and some organic dyes such as those derived from Alizarin. From my experience ALL red dyes\pigments experience an initial drop off much more so than any other color and continue to wash out at a rate higher than other colors. If i come across any dyes that run counter to this, ill make sure to let you guys at Mayhem's know.


----------



## sanick

Got the white extreme in!


----------



## kevindd992002

Any pics of a system with the UV green Pastel here?

And how much Pastel should I be getting for a loop with a res (375ml capacity), pump, 1 x GTS 280mm rad, 1 x GTS 360mm rad, a GPU waterblock, and a CPU waterblock? Also, can 10 ft. of Ultra Clear tubing give me "extra room" in case I'm hit with noob stupidity while I'm assembling the loop?


----------



## milkguru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Any pics of a system with the UV green Pastel here?
> 
> And how much Pastel should I be getting for a loop with a res (375ml capacity), pump, 1 x GTS 280mm rad, 1 x GTS 360mm rad, a GPU waterblock, and a CPU waterblock? Also, can 10 ft. of Ultra Clear tubing give me "extra room" in case I'm hit with noob stupidity while I'm assembling the loop?


10ft of tubing is enough for most builds, with a good bit left over. as far as coolant capacity, it would depend on how much tubing you've used but I'd say anywhere between 1-2L.


----------



## jura11

Here is my,Mayhems Pastel Red and Mayhems UV White 13/10 tubing and bottom radiator is as well Mayhems Havoc 240nm 60mm thick radiator




























Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Here is my,Mayhems Pastel Red and Mayhems UV White 13/10 tubing and bottom radiator is as well Mayhems Havoc 240nm 60mm thick radiator
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Gorgeous build!

It's nice to see someone using a Havoc rad, I've got a few to put into my build once I finally get the damn thing done, lol.

Nice case that Phanteks, plenty of room for push-pull fans!


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Gorgeous build!
> 
> It's nice to see someone using a Havoc rad, I've got a few to put into my build once I finally get the damn thing done, lol.
> 
> Nice case that Phanteks, plenty of room for push-pull fans!thumb.gif


That red its absolutely amazing and yes that Havoc looks Bad A----s


----------



## jura11

Thank you guys for kind comments

@DerComissar

Yes,there is enough space for push pull like on top and bottom at exhaust side there will be tight squeeze but is doable but not sure if its worth on 30mm radiator to use push pull

I planned to spray Havoc radiator on red, but I leaved rather black, looks good like is it

Thanks, Jura

@NewUser16

When I first time bought that case I didn't liked red and black scheme, but later down the line I started love it more and more

And again thank you there

Thanks, Jura


----------



## kevindd992002

Where in the US can you buy a Blitz Kit? It's OOS in PPCS and Modmymods.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The old dyes we used to use a few years back didn't last long, as long as your PH is stable it will last a while, We have also increased the amount used.
> 
> 
> 
> While PH is a factor, wouldn't you agree that light, particularly longer wavelengths of UV and the visible light spectrum do far more to degrade (wash out) pigments, particularly red ones, than pretty much any other contributing factor? I ask this because at first glance, the color change in Wally West's coolant appears quite similar to changes I've seen in high light environments in my field of work (firearm and antique restoration) where I work with a variety of dyes and pigments ranging from aniline to highly UV resistant metal-complexed powdered dyes soluble in organic solvents or alcohols, and some organic dyes such as those derived from Alizarin. From my experience ALL red dyes\pigments experience an initial drop off much more so than any other color and continue to wash out at a rate higher than other colors. If i come across any dyes that run counter to this, ill make sure to let you guys at Mayhem's know.
Click to expand...

You are 10000% correct UV C can degrade wash out Red rapidly and its always been a pain of our lifes. We do have pigments that are UV C tolerant how ever pigments (such as colours) are bad in a system as they can clog it up quickly. Dyes on the other hand are better but trust me its some thing ive been looking into for a while and never found a solution as of yet.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Where in the US can you buy a Blitz Kit? It's OOS in PPCS and Modmymods.


Shipments have gone out to both companies.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You are 10000% correct UV C can degrade wash out Red rapidly and its always been a pain of our lifes. We do have pigments that are UV C tolerant how ever pigments (such as colours) are bad in a system as they can clog it up quickly. Dyes on the other hand are better but trust me its some thing ive been looking into for a while and never found a solution as of yet.


Which Pastel color has the "longest" track in keeping its color intact?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Shipments have gone out to both companies.


How long does it generally take to arrive to them?


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel Blue
about 4 to 5 days depends how long it takes to get though customs. We can normally ship next day but USA customs is simply a pain in the ass.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pastel Blue
> about 4 to 5 days depends how long it takes to get though customs. We can normally ship next day but USA customs is simply a pain in the ass.


Ok. Any general comments on the Pastel UV Green? Does it have any drawbacks that I should be aware of?

Ok, good to know. Thanks.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How long does it generally take to arrive to them?


Takes about 3 to 5 days arrive in the US. Based on past experience it takes another 4 to 7 days to pass through customs. They usually have to Tell me there a hold up at customs when something has to be special orders directly from the company. There's always some kind of hold up at customs when I place orders from over seas.

Also make sure you exactly how much liquid your radiator can hold or you will be placing multiple orders for extra bottles. I thought my one radiator would hold about 600ml to 700ml (Company didn't publish how much each of there rads would hold). I had to use data based off of other rads of them same size. Instead it swallowed an entire liter like it was nothing.

It's one reason why I had to buy five cans of XT-1 Nuke + five bottles of Pure H2O (I could gotten away with less, I just want to be on the safe side of things).


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Takes about 3 to 5 days arrive in the US. Based on past experience it takes another 4 to 7 days to pass through customs. They usually have to Tell me there a hold up at customs when something has to be special orders directly from the company. There's always some kind of hold up at customs when I place orders from over seas.
> 
> Also make sure you exactly how much liquid your radiator can hold or you will be placing multiple orders for extra bottles. I thought my one radiator would hold about 600ml to 700ml (Company didn't publish how much each of there rads would hold). I had to use data based off of other rads of them same size. Instead it swallowed an entire liter like it was nothing.
> 
> It's one reason why I had to buy five cans of XT-1 Nuke + five bottles of Pure H2O (I could gotten away with less, I just want to be on the safe side of things).


Oh ok. I would have one gts 280mm xflow and one gts 360mm uflow. I waa under the impression that a blitz kit (part one and two) would be more than enough for my setup though?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Takes about 3 to 5 days arrive in the US. Based on past experience it takes another 4 to 7 days to pass through customs. They usually have to Tell me there a hold up at customs when something has to be special orders directly from the company. There's always some kind of hold up at customs when I place orders from over seas.
> 
> Also make sure you exactly how much liquid your radiator can hold or you will be placing multiple orders for extra bottles. I thought my one radiator would hold about 600ml to 700ml (Company didn't publish how much each of there rads would hold). I had to use data based off of other rads of them same size. Instead it swallowed an entire liter like it was nothing.
> 
> It's one reason why I had to buy five cans of XT-1 Nuke + five bottles of Pure H2O (I could gotten away with less, I just want to be on the safe side of things).
> 
> 
> 
> Oh ok. I would have one gts 280mm xflow and one gts 360mm uflow. I waa under the impression that a blitz kit (part one and two) would be more than enough for my setup though?
Click to expand...

The blitz kit will have enough. The part 1 mixes to 1 ltr and part 2 mixes to 4 ltrs. I believe he's referring to the coolant. 2 ltrs of coolant should be enough for your system, but I would suggest a third so you have some extra in case of accidents and for future top offs.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> The blitz kit will have enough. The part 1 mixes to 1 ltr and part 2 mixes to 4 ltrs. I believe he's referring to the coolant. 2 ltrs of coolant should be enough for your system, but I would suggest a third so you have some extra in case of accidents and for future top offs.


I re-read his reply again and you're right. I just woke up so my I was still having brain farts 

How long can you store a Pastel coolant if I make it as a "reserve" though?


----------



## meson1

Regarding the use of Blitz Part 1. What I did was to perform a 'dry' run before using Blitz Part 1 using just water. That way I worked out any issues with filling, handling and emptying the rads before I did it with the dangerous acid solution. That way I could work out ways to avoid overfilling, prevent splashing, leaks and even simple things like trying to screw the plugs into the radiator port while wearing the gloves.

I also filled my rads with water and emptied them out into a measuring jug in order to find out how much solution I need to mix. I did this to avoid overfilling. That and using a torch to shine into the other port while filling to see when it got full before it overflowed.

I hope this proves useful for someone..


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh ok. I would have one gts 280mm xflow and one gts 360mm uflow. I waa under the impression that a blitz kit (part one and two) would be more than enough for my setup though?


It should be enough for that Since their Slim rad. Part 2 is more then enough(Since it make like 4 liters). I had two 560 rads at 60mm thick. It swallowed Part 1 like it was nothing. Plus I had two 420 rads.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Pastel Blue
> 
> about 4 to 5 days depends how long it takes to get though customs. We can normally ship next day but USA customs is simply a pain in the ass.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok. Any general comments on the Pastel UV Green? Does it have any drawbacks that I should be aware of?
> 
> Ok, good to know. Thanks.
Click to expand...

None that i am aware off.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> Regarding the use of Blitz Part 1. What I did was to perform a 'dry' run before using Blitz Part 1 using just water. That way I worked out any issues with filling, handling and emptying the rads before I did it with the dangerous acid solution. That way I could work out ways to avoid overfilling, prevent splashing, leaks and even simple things like trying to screw the plugs into the radiator port while wearing the gloves.
> 
> I also filled my rads with water and emptied them out into a measuring jug in order to find out how much solution I need to mix. I did this to avoid overfilling. That and using a torch to shine into the other port while filling to see when it got full before it overflowed.
> 
> I hope this proves useful for someone..


Very good technique, and advise.
Reperoonie+


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> None that i am aware off.


Got it. How does a Pastel coolant look like with the fountain effect on an Aqualis XT reservoir?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Got it. How does a Pastel coolant look like with the fountain effect on an Aqualis XT reservoir?


It's ok, Personally I never really cared for the whole fountain effect. It something you forget about after awhile.


----------



## Mayhem

If users could post there rad and amount of fluids it takes in ml's we will make a chart for how much fluid is needed for each rad.This will help users figure out how much they need across the board.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If users could post there rad and amount of fluids it takes in ml's we will make a chart for how much fluid is needed for each rad.This will help users figure out how much they need across the board.


I'll gladly fill up my spare rads and see what they all take (5 different rads) and a few more when I break my system down. Also wondering if there is any difference between the 100ml x1 concentrate and the 250ml x1. I'm looking at the same color description, but the 250ml comes out to be more expensive per ml everywhere I look. 2x100ml makes the same amount as a 250ml (according to the description on your site) just wondering if the 250ml has an improved formula or just a better bottle for long term storage


----------



## Mayhem

Its basically the bottle is more expensive on the 250ml to stop UV entering it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its basically the bottle is more expensive on the 250ml to stop UV entering it.


What do you mean? So the 250mL is a more concentrated liquid for the reason of protection against UV?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Blitz kit is your best bet. I had a whole bottle of aurora booster in my loop and blitz took care of it.
> Cathodes and Darkside LED strips work the best. The cablemods widebeam strips are pretty good as well. I'm using x1 uv green coolant and it is uv reactive, but I added a bunch of the laser green uv dye to get it to glow a lot better. The uv effect will fade over time so you may want to get a bottle of uv dye for whichever color you're going for.


How long does the UV effect generally last? If I use the Pastel UV Green coolant, how much UV dye should I buy?

I also noticed that the UV Laser Green Dye is a "standard dye" (as opposed to non-staining dyes). Does that mean it will "stain" my loop over time if I use it? Why can't all the dyes be non-staining?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its basically the bottle is more expensive on the 250ml to stop UV entering it.


cool, thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What do you mean? So the 250mL is a more concentrated liquid for the reason of protection against UV?


the bottle it comes in is better and protects against uv damage which is good. The last 100ml bottles i bought went bad within a year or so which was probably my fault. The green had turned a poopy brown. Blue was still good though.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Every bottle I've bought has been opaque plus I always store my fluids under the sink or in a cabinet to prevent any UV issues


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What do you mean? So the 250mL is a more concentrated liquid for the reason of protection against UV?
> 
> How long does the UV effect generally last? If I use the Pastel UV Green coolant, how much UV dye should I buy?
> 
> I also noticed that the UV Laser Green Dye is a "standard dye" (as opposed to non-staining dyes). Does that mean it will "stain" my loop over time if I use it? Why can't all the dyes be non-staining?


My One PC is still creating UV effect after about 6 months (It's not Mayhem coolant). I suspect it would be the same or better with Mayhem. You can always add a booster or add quick UV dye to loop if it starts to lose it's effect.

From What I recall reading, Some colors & UV effects are harder to create in non-stain dyes due to the chemical makeup that's needed to create a certain color with UV effect. No, it will not stain your parts or tubing (Atlease from my experience). Dyes have come a very long way.

Here is some photos of me draining my one PC, Once you run water through the tubing. It looks brand new. Using Blue dye & Pastel white.

Link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1605749/build-log-project-ice-dragon-caselabs-sm8-z170-watercooled-i7-6700k-gtx-1080-4k-gaming/10#post_25766897


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If users could post there rad and amount of fluids it takes in ml's we will make a chart for how much fluid is needed for each rad.This will help users figure out how much they need across the board.


I have a chart for some of the Hardware Lab rads. If I can find it I will post it in here. I know I posted it somewhere in my build Log, since that build Log is over 60 pages long it might take some time for me to find it.


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If users could post there rad and amount of fluids it takes in ml's we will make a chart for how much fluid is needed for each rad.This will help users figure out how much they need across the board.


Hw Labs Black Ice SR2 240 MP - 400ml
Hw Labs Black Ice SR2 480 MP - 600ml


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> the bottle it comes in is better and protects against uv damage which is good. The last 100ml bottles i bought went bad within a year or so which was probably my fault. The green had turned a poopy brown. Blue was still good though.


Is this true for the UV Green Pastel as well?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> My One PC is still creating UV effect after about 6 months (It's not Mayhem coolant). I suspect it would be the same or better with Mayhem. You can always add a booster or add quick UV dye to loop if it starts to lose it's effect.
> 
> From What I recall reading, Some colors & UV effects are harder to create in non-stain dyes due to the chemical makeup that's needed to create a certain color with UV effect. No, it will not stain your parts or tubing (Atlease from my experience). Dyes have come a very long way.
> 
> Here is some photos of me draining my one PC, Once you run water through the tubing. It looks brand new. Using Blue dye & Pastel white.
> 
> Link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1605749/build-log-project-ice-dragon-caselabs-sm8-z170-watercooled-i7-6700k-gtx-1080-4k-gaming/10#post_25766897


Ok. How would the non-stain dyes be different than the standard then? Will one bottle of dye be enough for a UV Green Pastel to act as a "boosting" liquid?

@Mayhem

Also, can you confirm that the color of the UV Green Dye has the same color as the UV Green Pastel? If so, what happens to the color if I combine the UV Laser Green to the UV Green Pastel?


----------



## Deedaz

The laser green dye is more of a yellow-green. It's lighter than the green X1, but gives a really strong uv effect. I haven't used the uv green pastel so I can't really tell you how it would work in that. When I used the blue pastel it took a lot of dye to get any significant color change so I would guess you would need to add a bunch of dye to it. One bottle of dye will go a long way though.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> Is this true for the UV Green Pastel as well?
> 
> Ok. How would the non-stain dyes be different than the standard then? Will one bottle of dye be enough for a UV Green Pastel to act as a "boosting" liquid?
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> Also, can you confirm that the color of the UV Green Dye has the same color as the UV Green Pastel? If so, what happens to the color if I combine the UV Laser Green to the UV Green Pastel?


The non-Stain are will not stain no matter what. The other dyes there always a chance. Plus Non-stain does not stain other item like the floor. Where normal dyes will stain the floor (I have two blue dots on my one floor).

Yes, your only putting a few drops in per litter.


----------



## Kostadinos

Just finished my loop . This is not the final product i am waiting 1070 and his block to do the final steps to my loop


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kostadinos*
> 
> Just finished my loop . This is not the final product i am waiting 1070 and his block to do the final steps to my loop


Is that fluid black or a purple? Looks great either way, nice work


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> If users could post there rad and amount of fluids it takes in ml's we will make a chart for how much fluid is needed for each rad.This will help users figure out how much they need across the board.


got my spare rads measured, should have a couple different HWlabs 360mm's to measure when I break down my system in the next week or two

XSPC-EX 280mm-225ml
XSPC-AX 240mm-175ml

Alphacool UT30 120mm-100ml
Alphacool UT60 120mm-250ml

EKWB XTX 240mm-375ml


----------



## lever2stacks

I am super confused on how to mix the XT-1 nuke coolant can anyone help me out?


----------



## lever2stacks

nevermind I figured it out.


----------



## kevindd992002

How would mixing RGB and UV LEDs react with Pastel UV Green?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How would mixing RGB and UV LEDs react with Pastel UV Green?


If you want the UV effect, use only UV lighting. Anything else will completely kill the UV. I had a few green led fans in the front of my X9 build and the little bit of green light coming off those killed the UV effect in the front half of my case.


----------



## Mayhem

@Mayhem

Also, can you confirm that the color of the UV Green Dye has the same color as the UV Green Pastel? If so, what happens to the color if I combine the UV Laser Green to the UV Green Pastel?

-=-=-=-=-

They are slightly diffrent make up.

UV Green in all cases is a mix of one of the following

UV Laser Green + Blue dye
UV Laser Green + Deep Blue dye
UV Laser Green + Non Stain Blue dye
UV Yellow / Green + Blue dye

Ect ect

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
*Warning -*

UV Orange staining is HIGH.

I cannot say any thing else as it will be misconstrued as advertising


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> If you want the UV effect, use only UV lighting. Anything else will completely kill the UV. I had a few green led fans in the front of my X9 build and the little bit of green light coming off those killed the UV effect in the front half of my case.


Thanks for the tip. Did it kill the UV completely? Or will it just dim the UV glow on the tube/res?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> Also, can you confirm that the color of the UV Green Dye has the same color as the UV Green Pastel? If so, what happens to the color if I combine the UV Laser Green to the UV Green Pastel?
> 
> -=-=-=-=-
> 
> They are slightly diffrent make up.
> 
> UV Green in all cases is a mix of one of the following
> 
> UV Laser Green + Blue dye
> UV Laser Green + Deep Blue dye
> UV Laser Green + Non Stain Blue dye
> UV Yellow / Green + Blue dye
> 
> Ect ect
> 
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
> *Warning -*
> 
> UV Orange staining is HIGH.
> 
> I cannot say any thing else as it will be misconstrued as advertising


Ok. So if I put UV Green Dye in the UV Green Pastel, it will definitely change the green-ness of the liquid? How long will the UV effect last in the UV Green Pastel anyway? I just figured that I buy a UV Green Dye as a backup in case the UV effect of the UV Green Pastel deteriorates over time.

The UV Green you're referring to above that are made up of one of those mixtures, is that the UV Green Dye you're talking about?


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh that is correct. The UV Green dye is a Mix of UV Laser Green + Blue dye.

You can tweak the mixture how you like though,

As for how long it lasts we cannot summarise on this because its down to more than light, you have to work out temps, ambient temps, sea level, pressure, coolant ratio, refraction and light so its near impossible to give a time frame. How ever normally you can get any ware from 1 year to 3 years.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh that is correct. The UV Green dye is a Mix of UV Laser Green + Blue dye.
> 
> You can tweak the mixture how you like though,
> 
> As for how long it lasts we cannot summarise on this because its down to more than light, you have to work out temps, ambient temps, sea level, pressure, coolant ratio, refraction and light so its near impossible to give a time frame. How ever normally you can get any ware from 1 year to 3 years.


Ok. In that amount of time, would it be wiser to change the coolant altogether or just use UV Green Dye to bring back the UV effect?


----------



## Mayhem

I would change the coolant. adding more dye will add to more issues later on down the line. Maintenance of a system is important for it to have a long life







.

Every year on my own build i pull the fluid out, run it though a coffee filter and check the PH. If PH is abnormal then the fluid goes in the bin and i replace, if not i reuse (may sound daft from a guy who own's a coolant company but i like to save pennies like every one else








)


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I would change the coolant. adding more dye will add to more issues later on down the line. Maintenance of a system is important for it to have a long life
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Every year on my own build i pull the fluid out, run it though a coffee filter and check the PH. If PH is abnormal then the fluid goes in the bin and i replace, if not i reuse (may sound daft from a guy who own's a coolant company but i like to save pennies like every one else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


That makes total sense  I'll be doing that instead of buying a UV Green Dye as a backup.


----------



## Mayhem

Tubing testing underway

MNPCTECH PETG, Alphaool hard and soft, Dazmods hard and soft (some coloured)

It will take about 3 weeks for each tube to be tested so full testing will complete in 3 months approximately :/, all tubing will be added to our current charts.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> If you want the UV effect, use only UV lighting. Anything else will completely kill the UV. I had a few green led fans in the front of my X9 build and the little bit of green light coming off those killed the UV effect in the front half of my case.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip. Did it kill the UV completely? Or will it just dim the UV glow on the tube/res?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> Also, can you confirm that the color of the UV Green Dye has the same color as the UV Green Pastel? If so, what happens to the color if I combine the UV Laser Green to the UV Green Pastel?
> 
> -=-=-=-=-
> 
> They are slightly diffrent make up.
> 
> UV Green in all cases is a mix of one of the following
> 
> UV Laser Green + Blue dye
> 
> UV Laser Green + Deep Blue dye
> 
> UV Laser Green + Non Stain Blue dye
> 
> UV Yellow / Green + Blue dye
> 
> Ect ect
> 
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
> *Warning -*
> 
> UV Orange staining is HIGH.
> 
> I cannot say any thing else as it will be misconstrued as advertising
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok. So if I put UV Green Dye in the UV Green Pastel, it will definitely change the green-ness of the liquid? How long will the UV effect last in the UV Green Pastel anyway? I just figured that I buy a UV Green Dye as a backup in case the UV effect of the UV Green Pastel deteriorates over time.
> 
> The UV Green you're referring to above that are made up of one of those mixtures, is that the UV Green Dye you're talking about?
Click to expand...

It pretty much killed about 90% of the UV. I was really surprised how much different it was when I swapped those fans out.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> If you want the UV effect, use only UV lighting. Anything else will completely kill the UV. I had a few green led fans in the front of my X9 build and the little bit of green light coming off those killed the UV effect in the front half of my case.


It wouldn't kill UV effect completely. I have RGB + UV The UV effect is still very present. You also have to make sure your using a good brand of UV LED.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Tubing testing underway
> 
> MNPCTECH PETG, Alphaool hard and soft, Dazmods hard and soft (some coloured)
> 
> It will take about 3 weeks for each tube to be tested so full testing will complete in 3 months approximately :/, all tubing will be added to our current charts.


Any chance the AlphaCool tubing that being tested is Satin tubing for Hard?

Dazmode (aka Darkside) has bad plasticizer with there soft tubing. It's one reason I went with Hard tubing when I rebuilt that PC.


----------



## Mayhem

I cannot comment until ive tested. When we do any testing its unbiased and we dont read any review. How ever if there are any issues it will show up rapidly with the way we test.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know their Satin Tubing is Plexi based, would love to know how well it does w/ Mayhems' Pastel/Extreme


----------



## DRKreiger

Who has experience with the Aurora coolant here?

Was running it for about 3 months, and has all but completely disappeared.

Would the Silver Supernova additive add any affect to a Pastel coolant?


----------



## DarthBaggins

The Nanoparticles have come out of suspension, probably found a dead spot or jet plate to collect in.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know their Satin Tubing is Plexi based, would love to know how well it does w/ Mayhems' Pastel/Extreme


Pastel should be 100% fine. Not sure on the extreme coolant. I know someone said there testing with XT-1 with Satin showed zero issues. I would wait until get results from Mayhem. If you can wait 3 months.

Personally I don't see any issues with the tubing. Also ModMyMods also said there shouldn't be any issues. I know they sent some of the satin tubing to Mayhem for them to test. Not sure if they got it yet or not.


----------



## Andrew LB

So I finally got around to tearing my loop apart for a thorough cleaning and i'm kicking myself for not taking photos. I'm not sure if it were due to the X1's Blue pigments falling out of solution or residual flux from the manufacturing of my rads, but both my Aquacomputer Kryographics copper GPU block and XSPC Raystrorm V3 had serious buildup of blue/green material in the microfins. Flushing the system with hot water wasn't enough, so i had to completely disassemble the blocks and after two 10 minute runs in my ultrasonic cleaner using a solution of water and a cleaner made for copper which IIRC had acetic acid in it. Both radiators were also also thoroughly cleaned using the solution and using an old pump to circulate the fluid through them for a half hour. Everything was then flushed with distilled, all tubing replaced with new Mayhems UltraClear, and reassembled.

This time around I went with Mayhems new XT-1 Nuke Clear coolant with a few drops of Mayhems Non-Staining UV Clear Ice Blue dye. After a short leak test (probably should have done a longer one), I got the PC running and its runnning better than ever!


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> So I finally got around to tearing my loop apart for a thorough cleaning and i'm kicking myself for not taking photos. I'm not sure if it were due to the X1's Blue pigments falling out of solution or residual flux from the manufacturing of my rads, but both my Aquacomputer Kryographics copper GPU block and XSPC Raystrorm V3 had serious buildup of blue/green material in the microfins. Flushing the system with hot water wasn't enough, so i had to completely disassemble the blocks and after two 10 minute runs in my ultrasonic cleaner using a solution of water and a cleaner made for copper which IIRC had acetic acid in it. Both radiators were also also thoroughly cleaned using the solution and using an old pump to circulate the fluid through them for a half hour. Everything was then flushed with distilled, all tubing replaced with new Mayhems UltraClear, and reassembled.
> 
> This time around I went with Mayhems new XT-1 Nuke Clear coolant with a few drops of Mayhems Non-Staining UV Clear Ice Blue dye. After a short leak test (probably should have done a longer one), I got the PC running and its runnning better than ever!


Just so you know we do not use pigments we use dyes. Dyes don't actually fall out there has to be some sort of chemical reaction for them to fade or disappear.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Pastel should be 100% fine. Not sure on the extreme coolant. I know someone said there testing with XT-1 with Satin showed zero issues. I would wait until get results from Mayhem. If you can wait 3 months.
> 
> Personally I don't see any issues with the tubing. Also ModMyMods also said there shouldn't be any issues. I know they sent some of the satin tubing to Mayhem for them to test. Not sure if they got it yet or not.


Seems Pastel Extreme has a different effect on tubing than standard Pastel, would be nice to know from Mayhems directly. I would love to use the Satin hardline, but I'm not a fan of Alphacool (and even bigger anti-fan of Bitspower)


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Seems Pastel Extreme has a different effect on tubing than standard Pastel, would be nice to know from Mayhems directly. I would love to use the Satin hardline, but I'm not a fan of Alphacool (and even bigger anti-fan of Bitspower)


I just ordered some from Barrow if that would disgust you less








http://www.ebay.com/itm/192154689022?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=492068364628&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## DarthBaggins

I do actually like Barrow, but I've never used their tubing


----------



## Chaoz

Been using the Pastel Extreme White since beginning of this year in my new build.
Around March I added UV Sky Blue dye to it to make it pop more.
I Don't have anything bad to say about Mayhem's coolant, love it and looks great aswell.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just so you know we do not use pigments we use dyes. Dyes don't actually fall out there has to be some sort of chemical reaction for them to fade or disappear.


Sorry, i meant to say dyes falling out of solution, likely due to the flux and other residual crap i didn't properly remove from my radiators when they were new. The buildup on the microfins was bright blue much like the color of your dye. A hot distilled and vinegar flush clearly wasn't enough back when i built this loop. I am in no way implicating your products as being the cause of my issue. It was clearly unclean XSPC radiators combined with me not using a strong enough cleaning solution when they were new.

Btw... the XT-1 Nuke in clear with added Non-stain Ice Blue UV dye is outstanding. Better temps and flow rate than i had with X1 even back when it was flowing properly. Cold cathode UV tubes really make that dye pop well.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Just so you know we do not use pigments we use dyes. Dyes don't actually fall out there has to be some sort of chemical reaction for them to fade or disappear.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, i meant to say dyes falling out of solution, likely due to the flux and other residual crap i didn't properly remove from my radiators when they were new. The buildup on the microfins was bright blue much like the color of your dye. A hot distilled and vinegar flush clearly wasn't enough back when i built this loop. I am in no way implicating your products as being the cause of my issue. It was clearly unclean XSPC radiators combined with me not using a strong enough cleaning solution when they were new.
> 
> Btw... the XT-1 Nuke in clear with added Non-stain Ice Blue UV dye is outstanding. Better temps and flow rate than i had with X1 even back when it was flowing properly. Cold cathode UV tubes really make that dye pop well.
Click to expand...

Yeh XT-1 Nuke we actually stated working on it about 2 years ago how ever finished working on it last year but held back releasing it to the public (we like to surprise our competition the day they release a "new" product), XT-1 Nuke is based around performance and not just looks how ever we were after a mix of ease of use, How long it lasted and performance.We have other fluids on the side lines how ever we have not found a reason to release them just yet because nothing out there can compete or come even close to what we have currently out there There is the old saying i love, "if it works leave it alone"







..

Ref the Alphacool Hard tubing that has frost as they like to call it is one of the products we have and will go into testing soon.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Seems Pastel Extreme has a different effect on tubing than standard Pastel, would be nice to know from Mayhems directly. I would love to use the Satin hardline, but I'm not a fan of Alphacool (and even bigger anti-fan of Bitspower)


What the problem with these companies?

AlphaCool I know there was some small issues with there new pump & customer support takes awhile to get back. Other than that I'm not sure what the issue is. I never had any problems with any AlphaCool products.

Bitspower, I know there items carry a premium. Going in you should know that. There few companies who fittings will rarely leaked compared other companies who make fittings. Plus they make a fitting in almost every size & shape.

Barrow does make "Satin" tubing as well. If you don't want to support AlphaCool there is Barrow. I never used Barrow tubing so I can't really comment on how good or bad there tubing is. There fittings are very good. There my second choice after Bitspower.


----------



## DarthBaggins

It's their quality control, Bitspower's blocks are horrid and then you have Alphacool's dirty sub par rads. So far I've stuck with EK, PrimoChill, and Barrow for fittings and tubing (using EK's ZMT and love it).


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It's their quality control, Bitspower's blocks are horrid and then you have Alphacool's dirty sub par rads. So far I've stuck with EK, PrimoChill, and Barrow for fittings and tubing (using EK's ZMT and love it).


I can't comment on those parts. Since I use EK, Aqua-Computer & Watercool for my waterblocks. I use Hardware-Labs for my rads. The parts I have used from those companies have been very good.

I know AlphaCool rads had allot of dirt in them, Allot of that is when there being made & can't really be helped. They could revamp how there rads are made, Not sure if that would be worth it. If you properly clean your rads dirt shouldn't really an issue.

I can't really comment on there performance since I never used any of there rads before.

I can say AlphaCool tubing is very easy to work with, zero issue with them.

Here is the link for Barrow Frosted tubing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Barrow-Rigid-Acrylic-Tubing-Froste-White-500mm-For-Liquid-Cooling-ID-OD-Optional-/192154689022?var=&hash=item2cbd4fddfe:m:m8hLYOQTnoOGv1wFkI-oZiQ

AlphaCool gives you more tubing with there "Satin" Tubing.

Personally if I had a way to bend glass tubing, I would use Glass tubing only.


----------



## cloppy007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> So I finally got around to tearing my loop apart for a thorough cleaning and i'm kicking myself for not taking photos. I'm not sure if it were due to the X1's Blue pigments falling out of solution or residual flux from the manufacturing of my rads, but both my Aquacomputer Kryographics copper GPU block and XSPC Raystrorm V3 had serious buildup of blue/green material in the microfins. Flushing the system with hot water wasn't enough, so i had to completely disassemble the blocks and after two 10 minute runs in my ultrasonic cleaner using a solution of water and a cleaner made for copper which IIRC had acetic acid in it. Both radiators were also also thoroughly cleaned using the solution and using an old pump to circulate the fluid through them for a half hour. Everything was then flushed with distilled, all tubing replaced with new Mayhems UltraClear, and reassembled.
> 
> This time around I went with Mayhems new XT-1 Nuke Clear coolant with a few drops of Mayhems Non-Staining UV Clear Ice Blue dye. After a short leak test (probably should have done a longer one), I got the PC running and its runnning better than ever!


If it's like this, I think it might be radiator flux. I had a lot in my rads, even after years. The microfins of my cpu blocks *loves* to collect that stuff.


----------



## 0ldChicken

@MayhemI said I'd have a couple more rads for you.

HWLabs gtx 360mm-275ml
HWLabs gtx 360mm X-flow-175ml

Both are the older, gloss finished rads


----------



## 414347

Few years ago I posted result after using Mayhems Biocide Extreme with Distilled water after use of about 1 year on one of my EVGA Hydro Coppers, the results were great.

Now! it's been almost 2 years since I've used Biocide Extreme with 3 of my Watercool Heatkiller GPU blocks on my Titan Blacks and today while I was switching to x99 platform I decided to change thermal pads and paste on all of my GPUs. I also decided to take one of the blocks apart and to see how it looked after 2 years of pretty much 24/7 computing heavy work load I want to see how well the Biocide actually works, well its been 2 years I guess I should expect some tarnishing and some sign of degradation of the block....lets take a look.

What I did during the 2 years was I initially used 1 drop of Biocide per 1 L of distilled water, than every 3 months after that I added 1 additional drop of Biocide into each loop, each of my loops is approximately 1.5 liter than roughly at 10 month I changed to new fresh distilled water.

Also, every 12 months I used Blitz#2 to flash the system from any garbage might have accumulated over time I use Blitz#2 exclusively to keep my system in best possible condition and I belief that Blitz#2 does great job.

The results are absolutely phenomenal, the block looks like new, there is no sign of any tarnishing. I know that Heatkiller have one of the best nickel plating, but even than I should see some oxidation and discoloration on micro channel of the block, but as you can see....nothing.








Also for your pleasure here are few pics of my new systems hardware that I'm switching, hopefully tomorrow tomorrow


----------



## Chalupa

Does Mayhems shop deliver to the US? Looking to buy a Blitz kit and some Coolant. Most of the US sites have ridiculous shipping rates and delivery time isn't an issue so I'd rather save a few bucks and order it directly from Mayhems.


----------



## 414347

Yes it does delivery to US. I order my stuff directly from Mayhems and shipping its pretty reasonable as well.


----------



## Chalupa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Yes it does delivery to US. I order my stuff directly from Mayhems and shipping its pretty reasonable as well.


Thanks.

I noticed they had US in the pull down but just wanted to make sure. The shipping and coolant is cheaper directly from Mayhems so I'm definitely go to order it tonight.


----------



## Mayhem

update on tubing list soon. MNPCTECH PETG has passed every thing with flying colours.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> Few years ago I posted result after using Mayhems Biocide Extreme with Distilled water after use of about 1 year on one of my EVGA Hydro Coppers, the results were great.
> 
> Now! it's been almost 2 years since I've used Biocide Extreme with 3 of my Watercool Heatkiller GPU blocks on my Titan Blacks and today while I was switching to x99 platform I decided to change thermal pads and paste on all of my GPUs. I also decided to take one of the blocks apart and to see how it looked after 2 years of pretty much 24/7 computing heavy work load I want to see how well the Biocide actually works, well its been 2 years I guess I should expect some tarnishing and some sign of degradation of the block....lets take a look.
> 
> What I did during the 2 years was I initially used 1 drop of Biocide per 1 L of distilled water, than every 3 months after that I added 1 additional drop of Biocide into each loop, each of my loops is approximately 1.5 liter than roughly at 10 month I changed to new fresh distilled water.
> 
> Also, every 12 months I used Blitz#2 to flash the system from any garbage might have accumulated over time I use Blitz#2 exclusively to keep my system in best possible condition and I belief that Blitz#2 does great job.
> 
> The results are absolutely phenomenal, the block looks like new, there is no sign of any tarnishing. I know that Heatkiller have one of the best nickel plating, but even than I should see some oxidation and discoloration on micro channel of the block, but as you can see....nothing.
> 
> Also for your pleasure here are few pics of my new systems hardware that I'm switching, hopefully tomorrow tomorrow


Nice to see how clean it stayed! Thanks for sharing


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Nice to see how clean it stayed! Thanks for sharing


You welcome


----------



## kevindd992002

So I ordered three Pastel UV Green concentrate bottles from PPCS and I got these:



They seem to be the same but why the difference im bottles? Are these exactly the same?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So I ordered three Pastel UV Green concentrate bottles from PPCS and I got these:
> 
> 
> 
> They seem to be the same but why the difference im bottles? Are these exactly the same?


They are the same, the old bottles we couldn't hermetically seal so changed to new the square / round style, also we found they block UV light better and prolong the life of the fluid even longer when left in storage. Colours will always vary from product to product (abit like wall paper) but they all can be mixed with no issues. We are always (daily) updating mixes for improvements.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> They are the same, the old bottles we couldn't hermetically seal so changed to new the square / round style, also we found they block UV light better and prolong the life of the fluid even longer when left in storage. Colours will always vary from product to product (abit like wall paper) but they all can be mixed with no issues. We are always (daily) updating mixes for improvements.


Oh wait, so are you saying these are all the new bottles?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Oh wait, so are you saying these are all the new bottles?


The date of production is written on the label if you ever question how old it is.

TCO


----------



## Kostadinos

Μayhems Orange Pastel !!!!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kostadinos*
> 
> Μayhems Orange Pastel !!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Super clean build so far!


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The date of production is written on the label if you ever question how old it is.
> 
> TCO


I checked and the two bottles with the white top says 21.01.2016 and 08.08.2016. The black one says 02.02.2017 which clearly is from a newer batch.

@Mayhems

Does that mean the two bottles I have aren't hermetically sealed? Do you know why I got very old stocks from PPCS?


----------



## Mayhem

Stock rotation is down to individual companies, we have told several companies about this in the past as we consider Liquid coolants a "live" product and it must be treated as you would treat "food" and stock rotation is a must. We cannot relay say much more than that. The newer bottles are hermetically sealed the one with the black tops.

*** Tubing Update DarkSide Hard tubing passed tests .... as has Alphacool Misted hard tubing ***

Need to update the chart showing this info. One thing it does show not all PETG is equal.


----------



## Aggrotech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Been using the Pastel Extreme White since beginning of this year in my new build.
> Around March I added UV Sky Blue dye to it to make it pop more.
> I Don't have anything bad to say about Mayhem's coolant, love it and looks great aswell.]


do you have a yt vid or buidlog of this system?

btw what kinda led setup are you running? just a UV strip? regular purple strip? nzxt hue+? gonna build my first WC system relatively soon in the phanteks evolv shift x case and im trying to get a nice folder of pics for inspiration/ideas.

**edit** Also for anyone else....is there a nice compilation somewhere of all the major WC manufacturer coolants/dyes? I figured mayhem would have a nice gallery of all their coolants/dyes or a user submitted section ect but the site seems pretty bland. Maybe im using the wrong key words entirely? idk like i mentioned im fairly new to the WC world. Just trying to get a nice idea of whats out there. Nothing is set in stone yet so im still window shoppin


----------



## Mayhem

Unlike many companies we are a simple yet effective brand that let the consumers do the talking while we work on improving our products. If you look though this section you'll find lots of photos of people builds of just google Mayhems + coolant brand / colour..

How ever our new site that is being made will be more interactive.


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> How ever our new site that is being made will be more interactive.


This is exciting can't wait to see it!!!


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggrotech*
> 
> do you have a yt vid or buidlog of this system?
> 
> btw what kinda led setup are you running? just a UV strip? regular purple strip? nzxt hue+? gonna build my first WC system relatively soon in the phanteks evolv shift x case and im trying to get a nice folder of pics for inspiration/ideas.
> 
> **edit** Also for anyone else....is there a nice compilation somewhere of all the major WC manufacturer coolants/dyes? I figured mayhem would have a nice gallery of all their coolants/dyes or a user submitted section ect but the site seems pretty bland. Maybe im using the wrong key words entirely? idk like i mentioned im fairly new to the WC world. Just trying to get a nice idea of whats out there. Nothing is set in stone yet so im still window shoppin


user @eucalyptus did a great comparison of all the dye colors here
Edit: @Mayhem maybe link to that somewhere in the OP so new folks can find it?
Edit 2: just saw the grey aurora 4 video on yt! Looks great! I should have a new system using Aurora Silver up and running in a week or two hopefully (time for a new avatar!!)


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Stock rotation is down to individual companies, we have told several companies about this in the past as we consider Liquid coolants a "live" product and it must be treated as you would treat "food" and stock rotation is a must. We cannot relay say much more than that. The newer bottles are hermetically sealed the one with the black tops.
> 
> *** Tubing Update DarkSide Hard tubing passed tests .... as has Alphacool Misted hard tubing ***
> 
> Need to update the chart showing this info. One thing it does show not all PETG is equal.


Does that mean I have the right for a replacement from PPCS?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Stock rotation is down to individual companies, we have told several companies about this in the past as we consider Liquid coolants a "live" product and it must be treated as you would treat "food" and stock rotation is a must. We cannot relay say much more than that. The newer bottles are hermetically sealed the one with the black tops.
> 
> *** Tubing Update DarkSide Hard tubing passed tests .... as has Alphacool Misted hard tubing ***
> 
> Need to update the chart showing this info. One thing it does show not all PETG is equal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does that mean I have the right for a replacement from PPCS?
Click to expand...

Not rely as the products are still in date. They have a rather long life span, more so than lesser brands. How ever this is were i can help. If you would like replacement because "you are not happy". I will replace them as that is part of our warranty e.g if you are not happy we will replace or refund. We do not expect our re sellers to do this.

I will need a receipt from PPC from you, your full name, address (inc county as well please) and telephone number (Pm me this info).

Mick


----------



## Mayhem

We currently have a promo code **OCN2017** specifically for our OCN Customers, this will allow you 15% off the price of our store Items.

The code will go live on the 7th June 2017 00:00Hrs UK time.

The code is for OCN users only and is a way for us to say thank you to OCN and the OCN community,

The code does not include shipping only Items. If you find you cannot order (normally due to weight issues with shipping) please contact our sales at mayhems dot co dot uk, direct stating the code with your order and full details, the sales team will work out the best shipping price for you. If you would like an order tracking this always costs more.

*OCN2017* 15% Discount over at our Store.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Not rely as the products are still in date. They have a rather long life span, more so than lesser brands. How ever this is were i can help. If you would like replacement because "you are not happy". I will replace them as that is part of our warranty e.g if you are not happy we will replace or refund. We do not expect our re sellers to do this.
> 
> I will need a receipt from PPC from you, your full name, address (inc county as well please) and telephone number (Pm me this info).
> 
> Mick


YGPM


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aggrotech*
> 
> do you have a yt vid or buidlog of this system?
> 
> btw what kinda led setup are you running? just a UV strip? regular purple strip? nzxt hue+? gonna build my first WC system relatively soon in the phanteks evolv shift x case and im trying to get a nice folder of pics for inspiration/ideas.
> 
> **edit** Also for anyone else....is there a nice compilation somewhere of all the major WC manufacturer coolants/dyes? I figured mayhem would have a nice gallery of all their coolants/dyes or a user submitted section ect but the site seems pretty bland. Maybe im using the wrong key words entirely? idk like i mentioned im fairly new to the WC world. Just trying to get a nice idea of whats out there. Nothing is set in stone yet so im still window shoppin


No sorry, didn't do a build log. As my project was on hold for a few weeks, with a number of setbacks and never got around to do it. As I was too lazy to do a buildlog and even bend the tubes







.

The LEDstrips are Cablemod Hybrid RGB/UV strips.
Can be bought here: https://cablemod.com/product-category/led-strips/hybrid/?filter_color=uv

I'm using 1x 60cm kit with remote and such and 3 60cm strips in total. 2 strips in the front and 2 strips behind the rads.

Could give you a complete partslist and some pics from when I was building it, if you want?


----------



## Craigk19

Can someone explain to me why i can order directly from Mayhems to the Unite States and its only going to cost me $48 after shipping exact same items at Performance PC that is located in the US is going to cost $60. i want to make the order but i wont be any where close to putting my custom loop together until at the earliest February of 2018 very tempted to order the stuff now...


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> Can someone explain to me why i can order directly from Mayhems to the Unite States and its only going to cost me $48 after shipping exact same items at Performance PC that is located in the US is going to cost $60. i want to make the order but i wont be any where close to putting my custom loop together until at the earliest February of 2018 very tempted to order the stuff now...


sometimes it works out that way and sometimes it doesn't. I haven't seen that big of a difference though, only a few bucks but I'm sure it depends on what you're ordering. I'd avoid buying coolants at least until closer to build time but IMO it's probably a good idea to wait in general because things can change


----------



## SolarNova

Greetings.

So my next adventure in custom PC builds is a sub zero Chiller bassed system.

Will be liquid cooled, but sub zero. Possibly down to the -20's.

That being said i fully intend for it to 'look' like any other high end custom water loop, i wont go into details but i'v already designed in features to account for all the quirks of sub zero cooling such as condensation and frost/ice.

My question for here is.

What happens if one mixes XT-1 or XT-1 Nuke with Aurora ?

I know it says do not do it, but why ?

I would very much like to run Auroa, but im gunna need to use a coolant that can handle sub zero temperatures.

Cheers


----------



## Ugooo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> So my next adventure in custom PC builds is a sub zero Chiller bassed system.
> 
> Will be liquid cooled, but sub zero. Possibly down to the -20's.
> 
> That being said i fully intend for it to 'look' like any other high end custom water loop, i wont go into details but i'v already designed in features to account for all the quirks of sub zero cooling such as condensation and frost/ice.


sounds amazing!









Will look out for that thread


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Here is some blood red dye from mayhem in my finished build!


I know this is very old post but isn't that Deep Red Dye, not Red Dye? I am looking for same color for my lopp. Thanks!


----------



## DisposableHero7

Hey everyone,

i've just come back to custom watercooling loops a week ago (see the build-log in my sig) and have been browsing this site and the rest of the internet for whats cool and new in the world of watercooling.

So i found several vids on youtube about Mayhems Aurora 2 fluids making your tubes and reservoires look like some kind of freakish plasma was twirling around in it an i REALY like the visual effect. However, as Mayhem states on their website, Aurora 2 is a pure demonstration / fair / show-off product meant for a few days of use only and and NOT to be used for regular use in your 24/7 home/game/work PC. But then i heared (or read?) somewhere that Mayhems was working on an improoved Aurora 3 that might diminish the downsides of Aurora 2's short time usage.

Is that still a thing, are you guys at Mayhems still working on it (didn't see Aurora 3 in your shop)? Or are all hopes of getting something that's looking as cool as Aurora 2 is for prolonged or even 24/7 use in vain? Because, damn that twirling stuff looks so damn cool ... but i would hate having to flush, rinse, clean and refil my loop every other week.

Thanks for any infos on this


----------



## Benny89

So I have ordered 1000 ml Premix Pastel Red Mayhem but I heard a lot bad things (sorry Mayhem, not judging yet, just sharing my concerns) about Mayhem pastel dyes changing color/tint over time, dirting your rads and fittins and leaving strange sort of stains due to nano particles.

This will be my first water build ever so I am very caution about all parts. Got all EK fittings, EK pump and res, EK soft tubing and Hardware Lab GTS 360 rads.

Now I really really like pastel look. But I also saw JayZTwoCents video and saw many users reporting problems with pastel premix coolants so please kindly tell me why they are chaing colors/tint and do other stuff like that? How to prevent it?

Thanks for all answers.


----------



## DocShay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> So I have ordered 1000 ml Premix Pastel Red Mayhem but I heard a lot bad things (sorry Mayhem, not judging yet, just sharing my concerns) about Mayhem pastel dyes changing color/tint over time, dirting your rads and fittins and leaving strange sort of stains due to nano particles.
> 
> This will be my first water build ever so I am very caution about all parts. Got all EK fittings, EK pump and res, EK soft tubing and Hardware Lab GTS 360 rads.
> 
> Now I really really like pastel look. But I also saw JayZTwoCents video and saw many users reporting problems with pastel premix coolants so please kindly tell me why they are chaing colors/tint and do other stuff like that? How to prevent it?
> 
> Thanks for all answers.


From my understanding people who have had issues with color change in the past, did not follow the directions on prepping their system properly before using. If you have not already, buy the mayhems Blitz Kit. You NEED to make sure that radiator is spotless inside with Part 1 - Then use Part 2 on your full loop.

Running the same Mayhems pastel white + mayhems dyes (To make a custom tint) for 8 months without issue.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> From my understanding people who have had issues with color change in the past, did not follow the directions on prepping their system properly before using. If you have not already, buy the mayhems Blitz Kit. You NEED to make sure that radiator is spotless inside with Part 1 - Then use Part 2 on your full loop.
> 
> Running the same Mayhems pastel white + mayhems dyes (To make a custom tint) for 8 months without issue.


Thing is, I have read about it and many people claimed (like JayZ) they cleaned their system up to 3-5 times and it was still happening. Frankly, it seems to be most related to SLI and triple SLI set ups. I think the temperature may be a problem here.

Again, don't hate on me, just sharing my concers which you can read about across internet.

I already ordered blirz, vinegr and speciall copper acid for my rads cleaning so I will give it a shot. I have only one card so temps should not be that hight there.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Thing is, I have read about it and many people claimed (like JayZ) they cleaned their system up to 3-5 times and it was still happening. Frankly, it seems to be most related to SLI and triple SLI set ups. I think the temperature may be a problem here.
> 
> Again, don't hate on me, just sharing my concers which you can read about across internet.
> 
> I already ordered blirz, vinegr and speciall copper acid for my rads cleaning so I will give it a shot. I have only one card so temps should not be that hight there.


yet the issues with Jayz have been narrowed down by Mayhems with them working together. Certain colors are more sensitive than others.


----------



## Kriant

Noticed this today in my loop (which was assembled after rads where cleaned with blitz part 1 and then loop washed with blitz part 2. Liquid is Mayhems Clear X1). Never had any growth in my loops ever before, but does this look like algae to anyone?


----------



## SolarNova

I have another question along with my other one.

Would XT nuke have an issuse with the materials used in igloo drinks dispenser or ice boxes ?

I wish to go sub zero and these two items seem like a good choice for a large res, just need to ensure the materials wont react badly with the coolant.

Cheers


----------



## Mayhem

excuse non or slow response from Mick at mayhems atm, hes burnt his hands catching a soldering iron (reflex reaction) and soon as he can, he will catch up.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> excuse non response from Mick at mayhems atm, hes burnt his hands catching a soldering iron (reflex reaction) and soon as he can, he will catch up.


Ohhh









Thats sounds horribly painfull. I wish him a speedy recovery, even though we haven't met yet!


----------



## Kriant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> excuse non or slow response from Mick at mayhems atm, hes burnt his hands catching a soldering iron (reflex reaction) and soon as he can, he will catch up.


Been there, done that, awfully painful and bubbling skin is awful. Hope his hands get better soon!


----------



## SolarNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> excuse non or slow response from Mick at mayhems atm, hes burnt his hands catching a soldering iron (reflex reaction) and soon as he can, he will catch up.


Ouch !
Yep done that b4, its no fun.

No rush, im not likely to start my Build for a little while, just getting the plan all straightend out.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> From my understanding people who have had issues with color change in the past, did not follow the directions on prepping their system properly before using. If you have not already, buy the mayhems Blitz Kit. You NEED to make sure that radiator is spotless inside with Part 1 - Then use Part 2 on your full loop.
> 
> Running the same Mayhems pastel white + mayhems dyes (To make a custom tint) for 8 months without issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Thing is, I have read about it and many people claimed (like JayZ) they cleaned their system up to 3-5 times and it was still happening. Frankly, it seems to be most related to SLI and triple SLI set ups. I think the temperature may be a problem here.
> 
> Again, don't hate on me, just sharing my concers which you can read about across internet.
> 
> I already ordered blirz, vinegr and speciall copper acid for my rads cleaning so I will give it a shot. I have only one card so temps should not be that hight there.
Click to expand...

You have a great prep procedure in place for your rads then.









The problem is that some rads are just prone to leeching garbage, due to the way they are manufactured, as well as inferior materials used, (eg. low-grade "copper") such as with Alphacool rads.
I learned that first hand with an Alphacool 480 Monsta, before the Blitz kits were available.

It is not to be blamed on Mayhems coolants, it's the rads themselves.
Imo you can only do so much to clean poor quality rads, even with using Blitz, or diluted vinegar, and flushing them well.
Those rads may still continue to puke in your coolant regardless.

Fortunately some rads are better than others, and don't have these issues to such an extent.


----------



## SolarNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> You have a great prep procedure in place for your rads then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is that some rads are just prone to leeching garbage, due to the way they are manufactured, as well as inferior materials used, (eg. low-grade "copper") such as with Alphacool rads.
> I learned that first hand with an Alphacool 480 Monsta, before the Blitz kits were available.
> 
> It is not to be blamed on Mayhems coolants, it's the rads themselves.
> Imo you can only do so much to clean poor quality rads, even with using Blitz, or diluted vinegar, and flushing them well.
> Those rads may still continue to puke in your coolant regardless.
> 
> Fortunately some rads are better than others, and don't have these issues to such an extent.


I use a AlphaCool 240 Monsta, along with 2 240 XSPC rads. I've never had issue with my coolant, though to be fair i dont use dye or pigment, just Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 + Biocide.
I havnt replaced the coolant (or added more biocide) since i made the loop about 3 years ago, no algae, corroson, leaching etc. Liquid is just as clean as the day i put it in.

What i done to clean the rad was real simple. tap water (which in my area of the UK is very hard water, alot of lime), boil it, put it straight into the rad, shake well, empty into a white container so you can see any particulate in the liquid. I done that about 5 times untill the water was coming out clean. Then i filled it with Distilled water, shake, and empty. Done.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> I use a AlphaCool 240 Monsta, along with 2 240 XSPC rads. I've never had issue with my coolant, though to be fair i dont use dye or pigment, just Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 + Biocide.
> I havnt replaced the coolant (or added more biocide) since i made the loop about 3 years ago, no algae, corroson, leaching etc. Liquid is just as clean as the day i put it in.
> 
> What i done to clean the rad was real simple. tap water (which in my area of the UK is very hard water, alot of lime), boil it, put it straight into the rad, shake well, empty into a white container so you can see any particulate in the liquid. I done that about 5 times untill the water was coming out clean. Then i filled it with Distilled water, shake, and empty. Done.


That's a good cleaning procedure, similar to what I've done in the past.

Good to see you had great results with no issues. Many others are reporting the same, so certainly not all rads are bad!

As far as the Alphacool 480 Monsta that I used in my TJ07 build, dirty though it was, the cooling performance of that rad was excellent.
I also was using an XSPC RX240 v.2 rad, which stayed very clean, with Mayhems Pastel White coolant.

I really believe in Mayhems products, imo they are the best bar none.
I have some Mayhems Havoc rads, and XT-1 clear coolant for my current loop upgrade, whenever I finally get the damn thing done, lol.
They look to be very clean and well-made, so my cleaning procedure will be similar again, although I may use the Blitz Part 2, just for kicks.


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> You have a great prep procedure in place for your rads then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is that some rads are just prone to leeching garbage, due to the way they are manufactured, as well as inferior materials used, (eg. low-grade "copper") such as with Alphacool rads.
> I learned that first hand with an Alphacool 480 Monsta, before the Blitz kits were available.
> 
> It is not to be blamed on Mayhems coolants, it's the rads themselves.
> Imo you can only do so much to clean poor quality rads, even with using Blitz, or diluted vinegar, and flushing them well.
> Those rads may still continue to puke in your coolant regardless.
> 
> Fortunately some rads are better than others, and don't have these issues to such an extent.


My understanding of JayzTwoCent's' issue is that it turned out to be a combination of the quality of copper used for the HWLabs rads in _Skunkworks_ and the colour change issue affecting some of Mayhem's warm coloured dyes (Reds, Oranges & Yellows). This included some of the products from the _Pastel_ line, because they use the same dyes.

HWLabs and Mayhems have both made changes to their products. HWLabs are now keeping a tighter control on the copper they source. Mayhems have changed the formulations of _Pastel_ and their dyes to much reduce the colour change issues.


----------



## Juris

Hi guys just looking for some advice and hopefully the all clear on filling my 1st WC build. I was looking at Mayhems Pastel White but was wondering is it the brightest white they have or should I go with something else. Its going into an Inwin 909 case which has very dark tempered glass panels so trying to compensate for the effect. Will the Mayhems pastel be ok with my components?

EK Supremacy EVO full nickel waterblock
EK PE-360
EK PE-240
Singularity Protium res with VPP-755 V2 D5
Monsoon Acrylic Hardline Tubing
Monsoon Chrome fittings
Still trying to find a gpu water block but will likely be an EK nickel

Hoping not to run into any colour change issues or worse so thought I'd ask 1st. Cheers.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Hi guys just looking for some advice and hopefully the all clear on filling my 1st WC build. I was looking at Mayhems Pastel White but was wondering is it the brightest white they have or should I go with something else. Its going into an Inwin 909 case which has very dark tempered glass panels so trying to compensate for the effect. Will the Mayhems pastel be ok with my components?
> 
> EK Supremacy EVO full nickel waterblock
> EK PE-360
> EK PE-240
> Singularity Protium res with VPP-755 V2 D5
> Monsoon Acrylic Hardline Tubing
> Monsoon Chrome fittings
> Still trying to find a gpu water block but will likely be an EK nickel
> 
> Hoping not to run into any colour change issues or worse so thought I'd ask 1st. Cheers.


I'm using Mayhem's Pastel Extreme White. As I find the regular white, not that white. Plus the pastel Extreme can be diluted up to 3l. I just added all of it to my loop, which holds around 1,5-2l of fluid.

The Pastel Extreme doesn't have UV effect, tho. So I added UV Clear Sky Blue additive to it to make it pop even more.


----------



## war4peace

Hi all,

I am planning on expanding and buffing my watercooling very soon (it's a matter of days until last components arrive).
Right now I am using Mayhems Pastel Black in my loop, which works fine, however I plan on changing the liquid to Mayhems Pastel White. Bought 1L of Pastel White, will need to get 1L more, because my extended loop will eat more than 1L.
Anyway, my question is about properly flushing existing watercooling components to get rid of all the black dye in there. Soft tubing will be replaced so no issues there, but there are components which obviously will be reused. Those are:
- GPU waterblock;
- CPU waterblock;
- Fittings;
- 360mm radiator (X360, 60mm thick, from EKWB);
- 140mm radiator (30mm thickness from XSPC);
- Reservoir (EK 150 v3)

Would it be enough if I just flush them with tap water, as in "connect to faucet, let water run through it in massive quantities"? I'm not particularly worried about color purity afterwards, and because I am using the system all the time I can't really afford waiting a couple days to clean up the components using Mayhems flushing formulas (I forgot how those are called).

So... would tap water suffice, as long as the components are well drained afterwards? I could also buy a couple gallons of distilled water and use that if need be.


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> ... /snip ...
> 
> So... would tap water suffice, as long as the components are well drained afterwards? I could also buy a couple gallons of distilled water and use that if need be.


It depends exactly how good your water quality is where you live.

Water quality here in the UK is quite good. I'm in a hard water area, but I had no qualms about flushing my rads with tap water after using Mayhems' _Blitz_ Part 1. But I then followed that up with a deionized water flush.

That said my di water flush used a bucket, cheap pond pump, and a 5 micron inline water filter left running for several hours.

I say that if you do use tap water, you should follow up with a flush using di or distilled at a minimum.


----------



## war4peace

Water quality is excellent, I will do that at work, where water goes from the mains through a plethora of filters before it reaches the faucet.
I'll buy some distilled and do a final flush with it.

One more question: if I add 200-300 mL of distilled water to 1L Mayhems Pastel White, would that negatively affect the liquid? Again, not talking about the color itself, but the properties of the liquid itself.


----------



## Mayhem

It will a small amount but not by much . do not go over 100mls though. 200/300ml is to much


----------



## war4peace

Ok, I will buy another 1L of Pastel White then. Better safe than sorry


----------



## zeroibis

I was looking at getting the XT-1 Nuke and just wanted to ensure compatibility. Coolant Lifetime is important to me so I assume I should mix at a 60% ratio to get this. Or does the coolant lifetime top out at a lower concentration?

Anyways my build uses the following items:
Aquastream Ultimate AQ-41108
Aquainlet PRO 100 ml AQ-34062
3/4" x 1/2" EK-TUBE-ZMT-BK-1234-RET (10ft)
EK-RAD-PE-360
EK-RAD-CE-280
1070 SEA HAWK EK X (EK-FC1070 GTX - Nickel)

Not sure the cpu block yet because I do not know what chipset I am going to do with this build yet.

I believe that the XT-1 Nuke should not have any issues with the parts listed but I wanted to check to be sure.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> [...]
> 
> Right now I am using Mayhems Pastel Black in my loop, which works fine, ....
> 
> [...]


Hey,
i saw Mayhems pastel and pure black in a webshop this week and was very interested. However, i found (only very few) user-reports about it, but they seemed to agree that it is not realy black, but rather a very, very dark blue and would tend to turn into brown over time. Are there any pics or even vids of your loop? How long have you used the black and how does it look for you?

I'd appreciate any hands-on experience people have made with the black colors.


----------



## AlbertoBarbosa

Hey,

I'm kinda new to watercooling, and i can't understand the difference between the Pastel, Pastel Extreme, XT-1 and Ice Dragon.

Also, what's the difference between getting the Pastel concetrated and pre-mix?

Thank you,


----------



## Mayhem

There all different formulars. Are you after performance or looks or a bit of both.

Pastel = looks
Pastel Ex = looks + performance boost
XT1 = Performance

Premixes = just pour and go
Concentrate = need to add water


----------



## AlbertoBarbosa

Well, that made it much easier, thank you.

I'm after performance above all, i don't really care about UV and stuff like that, i just want a color, and that can easily be achieved with a dye...

I thought that the Pastel was the better coolant due to the nanoparticles and stuff, i also forgot to mention the XT1 Nuke, but i should assume that it is better than the XT1 right? So it should be between the Pastel Extreme, the XT1 and the XT1 Nuke.

It's just kinda sad that they're all incompatible with most tubing...

Thanks,


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> I'm using Mayhem's Pastel Extreme White. As I find the regular white, not that white. Plus the pastel Extreme can be diluted up to 3l. I just added all of it to my loop, which holds around 1,5-2l of fluid.
> 
> The Pastel Extreme doesn't have UV effect, tho. So I added UV Clear Sky Blue additive to it to make it pop even more.


Thanks for the reply and info and sorry for the late reply. I was a little worried about going with the Pastel Extreme as I didn't have a gpu waterblock to do my final loop configuration limiting me to using PETG for my starter WC build but I've just managed to score a brand new EK block for my 295x2 so I can finally use my acrylic tubing. Happy days. I'm ok with no UV so the Pastel Extreme sounds like the perfect option.

Nice rig btw. Cheers.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Thanks for the reply and info and sorry for the late reply. I was a little worried about going with the Pastel Extreme as I didn't have a gpu waterblock to do my final loop configuration limiting me to using PETG for my starter WC build but I've just managed to score a brand new EK block for my 295x2 so I can finally use my acrylic tubing. Happy days. I'm ok with no UV so the Pastel Extreme sounds like the perfect option.
> 
> Nice rig btw. Cheers.


Np and thanks,







. I had the same worries in the beginning. I searched review after review before settling with the Pastel Extreme. Still have quite a bit of EK coolants when I get tired of seeing the Pastel Extreme, which I probably would never get tired of







.

The 295x2 really needs a nice waterblock, good luck with the rig


----------



## Daggi

Hi all. After using EK Ekoolant EVO Clear for a year, I decided to start using Mayhems X1 clear coolant again. Should I use Blitz Part 2 or is it enough to use tap water to flush the system?


----------



## kevindd992002

Why is there only white color for the Pastel Extreme?


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hey,
> i saw Mayhems pastel and pure black in a webshop this week and was very interested. However, i found (only very few) user-reports about it, but they seemed to agree that it is not realy black, but rather a very, very dark blue and would tend to turn into brown over time. Are there any pics or even vids of your loop? How long have you used the black and how does it look for you?
> 
> I'd appreciate any hands-on experience people have made with the black colors.


There's a picture from when I just installed the loop in my machine.


As you can see, the looks are not great. This is because the tubing is not perfectly transparent. The liquid looks very black if you pour it in a glass, or look inside its own container, but in the loop it's blue-ish.
As for color change over time, I don't know







- because my current case doesn't have a window (Fractal Design Define S windowless)

Soon I will expand the loop and move everything into a Thermaltake Core X5, also replace the Pastel Black with Pastel White, hopefully it will look better









Sorry for not posting earlier, Real Life got in the way.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> There's a picture from when I just installed the loop in my machine.
> 
> 
> As you can see, the looks are not great. This is because the tubing is not perfectly transparent. The liquid looks very black if you pour it in a glass, or look inside its own container, but in the loop it's blue-ish.
> As for color change over time, I don't know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - because my current case doesn't have a window (Fractal Design Define S windowless)
> 
> Soon I will expand the loop and move everything into a Thermaltake Core X5, also replace the Pastel Black with Pastel White, hopefully it will look better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for not posting earlier, Real Life got in the way.


Thanks alot mate!
Yeah, thats what i read before, and makes kinda sense, most of the soft tubing has a faint blue tint, just like PETG hard tubing. I didn't think it would be SOO visible though.

@Mayhems:
If i get it right, "Pastel Extreme", "XT-1" and "XT1-Nuke" are all incompatible with PETG hardtubes, right? Does it interfere with the softener or sometthing? I am asking because i want to change to hard tubing in the next month', but since i rather often move my case arround (weekend LAN-parties etc.), i will refrain from glas and acrylic - both too brittle for my taste. So that leaves me with PETG as the only real choice for hard tubing....


----------



## war4peace

Now, I'll be considered pedantic but if you want to go hard tubing, there are other choices out there, but more expensive and not transparent, such as copper tubing or even stainless steel.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Yeah,

i actually thought about full metal tubing, but i guess i am a sucker for at least a bit of bling, so i'll stick to transparent tubing. I just love to play arround with fluids, changing colors or other effects ... so unless Kirk, Spock and Scotty land and sell us the formula for transparent metal (not aluminum please!), i'll pass on metal tubing.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Now, I'll be considered pedantic but if you want to go hard tubing, there are other choices out there, but more expensive and not transparent, such as copper tubing or even stainless steel.


Good point.

I love seeing a well-made copper or SS tubing loop.

The problem is that if you want to see the coolant in the tubing, you won't with copper or SS.


----------



## SolarNova

Maybe you should consider Glass tubing.

Ill be using it in my future build, its got a price premium assosiated with it in the form of additional fittings as you cant exactly bend glass tubing easily.

You can buy pre 90 degree bends if u like and ull likely get some usable straight bits out of it, but its still 1 bend per peace. So you choice is to spend loads on glass tubing, or not so much on glass tubing and loads on fittings for each bend.

~£7.50 per 50cm Glass Tube
~£9.50 per 50cm Glass tube with 90 degree bend.
~£10 per Fitting.

But, its glass, so no issues with coolant, and it wont degrade like soft tubing does. Looks very good aswell.


----------



## AlbertoBarbosa

Acrylic doesn't have any issues with coolant's also.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Why is there only white color for the Pastel Extreme?


Because that all we can fit in the bottle (100ml). if we used dyes we would lose the biocide protection it has., Basically its as concentrated as we could get it whilst keeping the protection in place.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> @Mayhems:
> If i get it right, "Pastel Extreme", "XT-1" and "XT1-Nuke" are all incompatible with PETG hardtubes, right? Does it interfere with the softener or sometthing? I am asking because i want to change to hard tubing in the next month', but since i rather often move my case arround (weekend LAN-parties etc.), i will refrain from glas and acrylic - both too brittle for my taste. So that leaves me with PETG as the only real choice for hard tubing....


Not all PETG tubing is the same. Ill re-post updated tubing compatibility guide Monday. Good PETG Tubing works fine just some cheap stuff doesn't..


----------



## AlbertoBarbosa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertoBarbosa*
> 
> Well, that made it much easier, thank you.
> 
> I'm after performance above all, i don't really care about UV and stuff like that, i just want a color, and that can easily be achieved with a dye...
> 
> I thought that the Pastel was the better coolant due to the nanoparticles and stuff, i also forgot to mention the XT1 Nuke, but i should assume that it is better than the XT1 right? So it should be between the Pastel Extreme, the XT1 and the XT1 Nuke.
> 
> Thanks,


@Mayhem Can i get an answer on this? I would like to know what differenciates the Pastel Extreme, the XT1 and XT1 Nuke.

Thank you,


----------



## Mayhem

XT-1 nuke is a new version of XT-1 and has stronger biocides and inhibitors. Pastel extreme is a pastel nano coolant based on XT1.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Not all PETG tubing is the same. Ill re-post updated tubing compatibility guide Monday. Good PETG Tubing works fine just some cheap stuff doesn't..


Oh thats cool!
I'll wait for the updated compatibility list then. I realy like PETG for its better toughness over glass and acrylic, as i said i move my case kinda often...


----------



## DarthBaggins

IE ThermalFake's PETG is crap

Every time Mayhems updates the chart I save it/ print it out so I know what is compatible across the board, which is why I'm running EK's ZMT


----------



## jarble

Is there a way to get the same look as the old Aurora galaxy purple with products from the current lineup? I tried to recreate it myself and made the error of selecting the pastel purple as the base and that did not work well







.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Is there a way to get the same look as the old Aurora galaxy purple with products from the current lineup? I tried to recreate it myself and made the error of selecting the pastel purple as the base and that did not work well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Mix Aurora with X1 plus purple dye only. You can need to add a booster but to get the same effect as the old stuff we would need to crate a larger particle to reflect more colours.

Mick


----------



## Mayhem

Tubing guide Update as you can see were being via unbiased here. Im going to re order in failed tubing and re test it with the new testing methodology to see if we had old samples or if any thing has changed.

Seems as said before not all PETG or tubing is the same.


----------



## Mayhem

Some thing to be aware of.

*WARNING*

*X1 UV Orange*. This Is a wired one.

When use CCFL it looks Orange under UV light, when taking a photo's it looks green,
When using Darkside LEDs it looks green under UV light and also camera.

I will update our site with this information as its some thing we cannot fix due to the makeup of UV Orange and the way it is made.






Explanation of why this is happening :

UV Light / Black light is purple to the eye, Purple + Orange = a greenish look at times


----------



## AlbertoBarbosa

Any chance you could test the monsoon's acrylic tubing? As well as primochill acrylic.

Thanks


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertoBarbosa*
> 
> Any chance you could test the monsoon's acrylic tubing? As well as primochill acrylic.
> 
> Thanks


All acrylic is fine, its PEGT that's not created equal. If you look at the chart 2 post up it says Acrylic Hard Tubing is all green lights that's for all acrylic tubing regardless of manufacturer.


----------



## AlbertoBarbosa

But is there any difference, as minor as it may be, between acrylic tubing of different manufacturer's?

If all acrylic if fine, why did they test EK's and Darkside?


----------



## Mayhem

I can only test what im sent, sorry, Ive given up buying every product on the market the cost alone is a killer.

We have never heard 1 complaint about acrylic very much the same as glass. PETG on the other hand seems to be like rolling the dice. Im not against any product as its each to there own.

I do how ever need to re test XSPC and TT - PETG as im not happy and would like confirmation results, another 4 weeks of re testing.


----------



## AlbertoBarbosa

I totally understand that, maybe i'll contact them to see if they can send you, if they send to youtubers, why not send for testing?


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems is proud to announce a new partnership with CPI UK (centre for process and innovation) in relation to producing one of the most advance Nano Graphene based non conductive coolant ever seen to date. Up ?to 20% more thermally conductive than water alone from 20c upto 90c also its one of the most chemically stable coolants compered to any other the market brands with less additives. Best of all non toxic! once again only from Mayhems fully IP protected.

Every thing is going though Development atm so it will take some time before every thing is ready. We will be keeping an eye out for possible testers once were ready.


----------



## war4peace

Shut up and take my money. Also, would like to expose my all-too-expensive watercooling setup for testing the new liquid.


----------



## Craigk19

wow i would love to see what kind of temps this stuff would achieve! and what the performance difference between it and your already great line of products


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems is proud to announce a new partnership with CPI UK (centre for process and innovation) in relation to producing one of the most advance Nano Graphene based non conductive coolant ever seen to date. Up ?to 20% more thermally conductive than water alone from 20c upto 90c also its one of the most chemically stable coolants compered to any other the market brands with less additives. Best of all non toxic! once again only from Mayhems fully IP protected.
> 
> Every thing is going though Development atm so it will take some time before every thing is ready. We will be keeping an eye out for possible testers once were ready.


I'd be happy to be a guinea pig, definitely want something that will last a few years vs changing fluids every 6 months to annually along with having a higher performance cooling wise


----------



## 0ldChicken

Id also be interested in testing


----------



## Kriant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems is proud to announce a new partnership with CPI UK (centre for process and innovation) in relation to producing one of the most advance Nano Graphene based non conductive coolant ever seen to date. Up ?to 20% more thermally conductive than water alone from 20c upto 90c also its one of the most chemically stable coolants compered to any other the market brands with less additives. Best of all non toxic! once again only from Mayhems fully IP protected.
> 
> Every thing is going though Development atm so it will take some time before every thing is ready. We will be keeping an eye out for possible testers once were ready.


TAKE THEM!!! TAKE MY MONEY!!! TAKE THEM ALL!!!!

Srsly, that sounds exciting.


----------



## Mayhem

Oh gward foot in mouth moment, it will be approx 3 months before we need testers (providing every thing goes fine). I will shout out though and ill be looking for members with in this community whom have at least 40 plus rep and have been chatting and helping in mayhems post for a while. NDA's will have to be singed but testers will be compensated for helping out.


----------



## Kriant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kriant*
> 
> 
> 
> Noticed this today in my loop (which was assembled after rads where cleaned with blitz part 1 and then loop washed with blitz part 2. Liquid is Mayhems Clear X1). Never had any growth in my loops ever before, but does this look like algae to anyone?


I have to re-quote myself to see if I can get some extra input.

I plan on taking my loop apart within the next month (once I get more time off work) and cleaning whatever this is, but I just want to check whether it looks like algae and thus whether I need to buy another cleaning kit in advance.

Thanks for your prospective replies.

P.S. Just to clarify - I am talking about that yellow-brownish debris of sorts next to the seal plug.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kriant*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kriant*
> 
> 
> 
> Noticed this today in my loop (which was assembled after rads where cleaned with blitz part 1 and then loop washed with blitz part 2. Liquid is Mayhems Clear X1). Never had any growth in my loops ever before, but does this look like algae to anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> I have to re-quote myself to see if I can get some extra input.
> 
> I plan on taking my loop apart within the next month (once I get more time off work) and cleaning whatever this is, but I just want to check whether it looks like algae and thus whether I need to buy another cleaning kit in advance.
> 
> Thanks for your prospective replies.
Click to expand...

Look's like stuff that has been caught up in your rads. We have seen this before. You wont need to re clean just flush that crap out of there.


----------



## Kriant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Look like stuff that has been caught up in your rads. We have seen this before. You wont need to re clean just flush that crap out of there.


Much appreciated!

Thanks!


----------



## SolarNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> Greetings.
> 
> So my next adventure in custom PC builds is a sub zero Chiller bassed system.
> 
> Will be liquid cooled, but sub zero. Possibly down to the -20's.
> 
> That being said i fully intend for it to 'look' like any other high end custom water loop, i wont go into details but i'v already designed in features to account for all the quirks of sub zero cooling such as condensation and frost/ice.
> 
> My question for here is.
> 
> What happens if one mixes XT-1 or XT-1 Nuke with Aurora ?
> 
> I know it says do not do it, but why ?
> 
> I would very much like to run Auroa, but im gunna need to use a coolant that can handle sub zero temperatures.
> 
> Cheers


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> I have another question along with my other one.
> 
> Would XT nuke have an issuse with the materials used in igloo drinks dispenser or ice boxes ?
> 
> I wish to go sub zero and these two items seem like a good choice for a large res, just need to ensure the materials wont react badly with the coolant.
> 
> Cheers


----------



## Mayhem

Don't mix aurora and XT-1 they are not compatible and will cause clogging issues.

Havent got a clue about what you said as we have never tired it sorry.


----------



## SolarNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Don't mix aurora and XT-1 they are not compatible and will cause clogging issues.
> 
> Havent got a clue about what you said as we have never tired it sorry.


Ok cheers


----------



## DisposableHero7

I heared (or read?) on either some forum OR in YT-video that Mayhems was working on an improoved Aurora 3 that might diminish the downsides of Aurora 2's short time usage.

Is that still a thing, are you guys at Mayhems still working on it (didn't see Aurora 3 in your shop)? Or are all hopes of getting something that looks as cool as Aurora 2, but is for prolonged or even 24/7 use in vain? Because, damn that twirling stuff looks so damn cool ... but i would hate having to flush, rinse, clean and refil my loop every other week.

Thanks for any infos on this


----------



## SolarNova

IIRC from an earlier post, they are actualy on somthing like Mk4 of Aurora, they just call it Aurora now though.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all









I will say that I have not read through all 15K posts, but I have a question.

Will the Aurora Booster work in conjunction with EK's Cryofuel, and what is the lifespan of Aurora, could I use it as a permanent solution ? (can list my loop parts if needed)


----------



## Mayhem

Sorry we have never tested.


----------



## emsj86

IS that a silver kill you areusing if so remove it


----------



## Stickeelion

Hey guys! I've been using Mayhems coolant since 2013, I've generally had a very good experience with it, not much buildup, and I find that it lasts a long time before having to flush and refill. My tubing (clear Rrimochill Advance LRT 3/8" ID 5/8"OD) however after 2 years or so it consistently discolored, becoming more yellow, It was generally tolerable as I had red coolant and that hid it to a degree, however even with white pastel X1 coolant I'm still getting the discoloration to a degree though not as bad with the red coolant, I think dye getting absorbed into the tubing may have played a part. I'm not sure whether its due to the coolant, metals in the loop (only copper radiators and all nickel blocks and fittings) or the temperature or even the case lights (white LED's I doubt its possible though).

Anyway, people waxed lyrical about the Advance LRT, I wouldn't say it was excellent but it got the job done. I'm basically looking at replacing my tubing again and thinking about going Primochill Advance LRT again or to try the new clear Mayhems tubing, I only just saw Mayhems now makes flexible tubing and I'm wondering how it will fare, the thick stuff, 3/8"-5/8", particularly with the white pastel mayhems X1. How long is it expected to last before discoloring? and how close is it to being crystal clear to accurately represent the pure white of the coolant? (I'm aware all clear tubing will have a slight tint to it compared to hard tubing) and how resistant to leeching have you guys found it?

EDIT: sorry, I mean Mayhems pastel Ice white concentrate not white pastel X1. the X1 was the red coolant I used.

EDIT2: also just to be certain I've been running my coolant right, you don't need to add anything the pastel ice white, it has all the biocides and anti-corrosives in it already right?


----------



## Mayhem

A review for you that is totally independent.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/05/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/

Here at Mayhems we consider tubing a throw away item.

you don't need to add any thing to pastel ice white it works out of the bottle.


----------



## war4peace

Tubing IS a throw-away item. Whenever you change your liquid, replace tubing. It's cheap and takes 30 minutes max.


----------



## DarthBaggins

On soft I will always use new, acrylic or glass I would try to reuse the runs that I can.


----------



## Stickeelion

I'm aware tubing is throwaway
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> A review for you that is totally independent.
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/05/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/
> 
> Here at Mayhems we consider tubing a throw away item.
> 
> you don't need to add any thing to pastel ice white it works out of the bottle.


I'm aware of that, I normally replace tubing but I'm looking for something that will show the coolant true color for as long as possible. Thanks for that review, that yellow discoloration is exactly what I saw, since I'm using white coolant I think the Mayhems tubing will be better as it clouds white instead of yellow , just wondering is the X1 glycol based like the XT-1?


----------



## toggLesss

Looking for a Pastel Teal color similar to this:



any help/advice is much appreciated.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> Looking for a Pastel Teal color similar to this:
> 
> 
> 
> any help/advice is much appreciated.


teal is more of a greenish colour, that looks like regular blue, I'd personally get white pastel and add blue dye until its the vibrancy you want it, otherwise, for teal you use mostly light blue with some small amount of yellow or green. like 5:1 to 9:1 blue:yellow/green. I haven't done it myself with mayhem dyes so don't take my work but that's how you get it with paint.

EDIT: another question of my own is there a difference between distilled and demineralised water? is one better than the other? I find demineralised readily but not many places stock distilled.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> I'm aware tubing is throwaway
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> A review for you that is totally independent.
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/05/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/
> 
> Here at Mayhems we consider tubing a throw away item.
> 
> you don't need to add any thing to pastel ice white it works out of the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm aware of that, I normally replace tubing but I'm looking for something that will show the coolant true color for as long as possible. Thanks for that review, that yellow discoloration is exactly what I saw, since I'm using white coolant I think the Mayhems tubing will be better as it clouds white instead of yellow , just wondering is the X1 glycol based like the XT-1?
Click to expand...

X1 and XT1 total different products, X1 is better with tubing. For best colour Rep use glass.


----------



## Mayhem

Looking for testers for a new Hyper coolant. NDA will have to be issued.

You will need to have the following to apply

1) Excellent standing member of OCN community. 200+ posts
2) No ties with any other manufacturer.
3) Duel, triple or quad GPUs.
4) Ability to understand and sign a NDA's (only 21 years of over will be accepted). Any breach of NDA will be followed up.
5) Ability to test water in your system for a few weeks recording temps at least 4 times a day (inline) and ambient temps.
6) Then to test New coolant in your system for a few weeks following the same routeen.
2) Have built at least 2 systems.

You will be rewarded with a £100 gift voucher from Mayhems shop.

PM me if your interested. do not be offended if you are rejected.


----------



## AllGamer

Is there any problem if I use *X1* with PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT soft tubes?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Is there any problem if I use *X1* with PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT soft tubes?


No


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No


Thanks!

Just ruling things out..

I'm still trying to figure out what's causing this abnormal behaviour in here http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/10100_50#post_26185749

I still think it's just a software glitch.

otherwise it doesn't make sense


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Just ruling things out..
> 
> I'm still trying to figure out what's causing this abnormal behaviour in here http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/10100_50#post_26185749
> 
> I still think it's just a software glitch.
> 
> otherwise it doesn't make sense
Click to expand...

if running pastel some times flow sensors can be an issue with any type of fluid containing nano partials. How ever the new version were working on fixes this big time due to the way we are bonding Hydrogen atoms to the Nano particles. Were taking cooling to a new level never seen before ever and bringing new tech to the scene like we did years ago.


----------



## Hayashi

I'm quite new to Mayhem, for my loop I want Lime Green pastel, any advice of which dyes are the best to get the closest to it?
Rather much like the lime in this photo.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hayashi*
> 
> I'm quite new to Mayhem, for my loop I want Lime Green pastel, any advice of which dyes are the best to get the closest to it?
> Rather much like the lime in this photo.


Well the default "yellow" looks quite lime greenish already.

but if you want it to be more green, then maybe just mix yellow + green

or just get the Clear ones, and buy the color ink droplets to mix your own color


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mint green would fit


----------



## Craigk19

Mint green is no more


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well damn


----------



## Chiobe

I have been running Mayhems Pastel Extreme in my system for almost a year now. I noticed today that the color had disappeared, leaving almost clear water behind (I would say the change happened almost over night, at most a few days).
Now the question is, does lost color means the nano particles have disappeared as well?

I'm using EK ZMT (Zero Maintainance Tubing), so that might have something to do with it, but its strange that it have taken almost a year for the effect to show.

For the time so have I added more of the pastel in, just in case.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nope ZMT and all Mayhems fluids are compatible, I would say the particles have dropped out of suspension in a dead spot


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Nope ZMT and all Mayhems fluids are compatible, I would say the particles have dropped out of suspension in a dead spot


Maybe, but its strange that it happen almost a year after the system had been put together.
I cant believe a dead spot would just form it self, after a period of time.
Also, most of the color left while the system was running.


----------



## Mayhem

Has there been any changes to the system such as adding some thing new to the loop or any thing like that. We have never seen Any pastel fluids suddenly go clea unless its a chemical reaction some ware.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Has there been any changes to the system such as adding some thing new to the loop or any thing like that. We have never seen Any pastel fluids suddenly go clea unless its a chemical reaction some ware.


Nope. Only thing I can think of, is that the hot weather made the reaction happen. But since my PC often runs 12 hours renders and temps are not higher then normal on the components, so cant it be many celsius difference in liquid temps. Average room temp is 20c, this week it has been as high as 30c.


----------



## DarthBaggins

is there any direct or indirect sunlight coming in on the case


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> is there any direct or indirect sunlight coming in on the case


The case got the backside toward windows, that got curtains and blenders on it. So it should not be an UV reaction.
Also, that dont explain why it took almost a year before the effect happened.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: Anyone know of any place that is currently selling 90° 16mm (OD) x 500mm Borosilicate Glass Tube? It seems Mayhems webstore is sold out currently. I can't seem to find any store that carries the tubing & also ships to the US at a decent price.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Anyone know of any place that is currently selling 90° 16mm (OD) x 500mm Borosilicate Glass Tube? It seems Mayhems webstore is sold out currently. I can't seem to find any store that carries the tubing & also ships to the US at a decent price.


PPCS has them in stock


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> PPCS has them in stock


The only ones I see listed are the straight versions. I need pre-made curve version.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> The case got the backside toward windows, that got curtains and blenders on it. So it should not be an UV reaction.
> Also, that dont explain why it took almost a year before the effect happened.


Temperature increase and UV direct/indirect can cause some odd reactions over time. How's the flow rate in the loop since this happened?


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Temperature increase and UV direct/indirect can cause some odd reactions over time. How's the flow rate in the loop since this happened?


Same flow rate as always and the blocks where clear, when I checked. So that leaves the tubes and radiator, as that much particles would have been noticeable if it ended up in the pump.

Guess its the temps, but strange that the minimum temp increase would cause a reaction, as the max component temps didnt change (45C-50C on both GPUs and 60C-70C on CPU). Maybe the increased room temp, was enough to increase the liquid temp to a level where the reaction could happen?


----------



## hwellen

There is a significant difference between Distilled and Demineralized water. Deionized has been boiled and the steam condensed back to liquid which removes almost all the minerals. Demineralized/Purified/Deionized water has had the hardness ions Calcium and Magnesium removed but they have been replaced by Sodium ions (Salt). Demineralized water is much more conductive than Distilled water.

I don't know about Australia, but here in Texas we can usually find distilled water in gallon plastic jugs at a foodstore/supermarket or at a drugstore.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Same flow rate as always and the blocks where clear, when I checked. So that leaves the tubes and radiator, as that much particles would have been noticeable if it ended up in the pump.
> 
> Guess its the temps, but strange that the minimum temp increase would cause a reaction, as the max component temps didnt change (45C-50C on both GPUs and 60C-70C on CPU). Maybe the increased room temp, was enough to increase the liquid temp to a level where the reaction could happen?


Also fluid temps would be a factor, but yes if the particles ended up in the pump you should notice a drop in your flow-rate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hwellen*
> 
> There is a significant difference between Distilled and Demineralized water. Deionized has been boiled and the steam condensed back to liquid which removes almost all the minerals. Demineralized/Purified/Deionized water has had the hardness ions Calcium and Magnesium removed but they have been replaced by Sodium ions (Salt). Demineralized water is much more conductive than Distilled water.
> 
> I don't know about Australia, but here in Texas we can usually find distilled water in gallon plastic jugs at a foodstore/supermarket or at a drugstore.


Not sure who your response was to?


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> The only ones I see listed are the straight versions. I need pre-made curve version.


They have 90 degree glass but it's not mayhems....just do a search for glass tube...they have alphacool in stock


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Also fluid temps would be a factor, but yes if the particles ended up in the pump you should notice a drop in your flow-rate


Guess I will just need to keep an eye on it. Since the heat will continue, so will I quickly see if that makes the extra pastel I added, reacts as well.
If it dont, then its an age thing.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> They have 90 degree glass but it's not mayhems....just do a search for glass tube...they have alphacool in stock


I'm not going to use AlphaCool Glass tubing. AlphaCool is known to have issues with there tubing, I'm not going to take a chance with there glass tubing. Plus I want Mayhems tubing since it slightly larger.


----------



## hwellen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *toggLesss*
> 
> Looking for a Pastel Teal color similar to this:
> 
> 
> 
> any help/advice is much appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> teal is more of a greenish colour, that looks like regular blue, I'd personally get white pastel and add blue dye until its the vibrancy you want it, otherwise, for teal you use mostly light blue with some small amount of yellow or green. like 5:1 to 9:1 blue:yellow/green. I haven't done it myself with mayhem dyes so don't take my work but that's how you get it with paint.
> 
> EDIT: another question of my own is there a difference between distilled and demineralised water? is one better than the other? I find demineralised readily but not many places stock distilled.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Same flow rate as always and the blocks where clear, when I checked. So that leaves the tubes and radiator, as that much particles would have been noticeable if it ended up in the pump.
> 
> Guess its the temps, but strange that the minimum temp increase would cause a reaction, as the max component temps didnt change (45C-50C on both GPUs and 60C-70C on CPU). Maybe the increased room temp, was enough to increase the liquid temp to a level where the reaction could happen?
> 
> 
> 
> Also fluid temps would be a factor, but yes if the particles ended up in the pump you should notice a drop in your flow-rate
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hwellen*
> 
> There is a significant difference between Distilled and Demineralized water. Deionized has been boiled and the steam condensed back to liquid which removes almost all the minerals. Demineralized/Purified/Deionized water has had the hardness ions Calcium and Magnesium removed but they have been replaced by Sodium ions (Salt). Demineralized water is much more conductive than Distilled water.
> 
> I don't know about Australia, but here in Texas we can usually find distilled water in gallon plastic jugs at a foodstore/supermarket or at a drugstore.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure who your response was to?
Click to expand...

Sorry, this was in reply to a question from Stickeelion on 6/26/17.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hwellen*
> 
> Sorry, this was in reply to a question from Stickeelion on 6/26/17.


oh thanks! I must have missed the initial response
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> They have 90 degree glass but it's not mayhems....just do a search for glass tube...they have alphacool in stock
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not going to use AlphaCool Glass tubing. AlphaCool is known to have issues with there tubing, I'm not going to take a chance with there glass tubing. Plus I want Mayhems tubing since it slightly larger.
Click to expand...

You can't really go wrong with glass, its all non-porous and chemically resistant (except soda lime glass with some chemicals), most glass you'll find is borosilicate and wherever you get it from it generally going to have similar characteristics unlike plastic tubing


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hwellen*
> 
> Sorry, this was in reply to a question from Stickeelion on 6/26/17.
> 
> 
> 
> oh thanks! I must have missed the initial response
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> They have 90 degree glass but it's not mayhems....just do a search for glass tube...they have alphacool in stock
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm not going to use AlphaCool Glass tubing. AlphaCool is known to have issues with there tubing, I'm not going to take a chance with there glass tubing. Plus I want Mayhems tubing since it slightly larger.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You can't really go wrong with glass, its all non-porous and chemically resistant (except soda lime glass with some chemicals), most glass you'll find is borosilicate and wherever you get it from it generally going to have similar characteristics unlike plastic tubing
Click to expand...

There are other reasons not to buy from alphacool.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> oh thanks! I must have missed the initial response
> You can't really go wrong with glass, its all non-porous and chemically resistant (except soda lime glass with some chemicals), most glass you'll find is borosilicate and wherever you get it from it generally going to have similar characteristics unlike plastic tubing


Based on some threads that have popped up here. AlphaCool glass tubing is much harder to get into the fitting compared to Mayhems which is allot easier. Not to mention there famous for incorrectly producing wrong sizes for there tubing.


----------



## shimeng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> There are other reasons not to buy from alphacool.


I offer another. I've had six alphacool UT60 radiators, four 480s and two 240s. They are each and every one of them, filthy and laden with a mystery powder (flux?) that never washes out during prep but only after your builds are completed. I will never buy their products again.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hwellen*
> 
> Sorry, this was in reply to a question from Stickeelion on 6/26/17.
> 
> 
> 
> oh thanks! I must have missed the initial response
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> They have 90 degree glass but it's not mayhems....just do a search for glass tube...they have alphacool in stock
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm not going to use AlphaCool Glass tubing. AlphaCool is known to have issues with there tubing, I'm not going to take a chance with there glass tubing. Plus I want Mayhems tubing since it slightly larger.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You can't really go wrong with glass, its all non-porous and chemically resistant (except soda lime glass with some chemicals), most glass you'll find is borosilicate and wherever you get it from it generally going to have similar characteristics unlike plastic tubing
Click to expand...

Actualy you can get bad glass tubing, we have had reports direct from consumers and have verified ! some other glass tubing (which is not German and is imported by Germans) is not what they state it is and the OD is not accurate and some fits and some times does not fit. That is bad QC controls for you. we spend a lot of time checking ours to make sure it is with in spec. In the few thousand pieces we have sold only 1 batch (25 peaces) was rejected due to it being out of spec and was replaced before it even hits the consumers hands. There is a very old saying and this is true most of the time, You get what you pay for.

As for stock we buy it in and it sell so dammed fast. we only do short runs because we have to spend time QC'ing and wrapping it all for very little to now profit at all. All the pre bent peaces have to be checked for accuracy and this takes a lot of time.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shimeng*
> 
> I offer another. I've had six alphacool UT60 radiators, four 480s and two 240s. They are each and every one of them, filthy and laden with a mystery powder (flux?) that never washes out during prep but only after your builds are completed. I will never buy their products again.


I heard horror stories about there rads. It's one reason why I only use Hardware Labs. I know they make high quality rads that are very clean.

I'll add another reason not to trust AlphaCool. There Silicon bending tool would not fit properly inside the tubing I got from AlphaCool. AlphcaCool basically told me it's suppose to be lose inside the tubing, even though every time I created a bend the tubing started to cave in.

Hopefully Mayhem Web Store or some Store in the US will stock the 90 degree bends from Mayhem soon.


----------



## Stickeelion

Ah I didn't think about tube diameter, was only thinking about chemical composition


----------



## kevindd992002

@Mayhem

Where is the best place to store coolants again? In a humid environment in the area below sinks?


----------



## hebrewbacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shimeng*
> 
> I offer another. I've had six alphacool UT60 radiators, four 480s and two 240s. They are each and every one of them, filthy and laden with a mystery powder (flux?) that never washes out during prep but only after your builds are completed. I will never buy their products again.


I've had a 360 UT60 I got a few years ago that was fairly clean but I recently got a 480 and 560 monsta for my upcoming build and this scares me a little. I ordered the Mayhems blitz pro pt1 which hopefully should clean it (I hope







)


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> Where is the best place to store coolants again? In a humid environment in the area below sinks?


Perfect would be dark cool place 25c max for the long term, So under the sink is a good start. Any thing below 15c or above 25c will reduce life span.


----------



## DocShay

@Mayhem

Did anything ever come of making a grey coolant? I recall a post from a few years ago you were looking to make some. Side note: If I mixed a small amount of Pastel black with pastel white - would this achieve pastel grey? Or would it turn "Pastel purple mess"?


----------



## YVWM-47

If you want grey mix emerald green with red dye using a pastel white as the base. This is what i did for my loop.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh we make gray pastel , cannot link it in but if you look on our site or some USA retailers you will find it.

ISBN code : 0744368363376 Dark
ISBN code : 0744368363369 Light

btw the name i called it is Gray as im a silly dyslexic bugger and didn't know there was a difference between the name gray and the colour grey and was only told after id knocked every thing up.


----------



## zeroibis

Is there anything to do when mixing XT-1 Nuke and water other than just pour them into the same container and then pour that into the system?

For example do I need to stir the mixture for any length of time?

Also I use a funnel to fill my loop with is sort of a soft rubber material, is this safe to use with the coolant for filling the system? -http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-flexible-thread-funnel-black-g-1-4.html#Details


----------



## Mayhem

Nope just mix and go. That is it, Always pre clean system though is new or used.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> Where is the best place to store coolants again? In a humid environment in the area below sinks?


Mine is stored behind my door on a table(No UV contact from the SUN). Since I will be using them shortly. a Basement or dark area that is semi cool is the best place.


----------



## Mayhem

Geno has sent us the samples we asked for (monsoon) hard tubing. He also included the test reports for each peace which is fantastic as this saves a lot of time in testing.

We have both PETG and Acrylic so will crack on with the testing.

Mick


----------



## war4peace

Quick question: I previously have read that EK coolants were rebranded Mayhems. Today I found out that Ek stopped collaborating with Mayhems and produces its coolants from somwehere else. Wondering what the truth is...


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Quick question: I previously have read that EK coolants were rebranded Mayhems. Today I found out that Ek stopped collaborating with Mayhems and produces its coolants from somwehere else. Wondering what the truth is...


You want the truth?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mayhem

Im not under NDA so can say we have stopped making all EK coolants now.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Im not under NDA so can say we have stopped making all EK coolants now.


What happened between your partnership?


----------



## Mayhem

I have to be honest, i do not know. I knew they were dropping us before they even contacted me. With the way of this business and the way larger companies work i've given up caring about there ethics any more. We are more consumer focused and are happy to do what we do. One thing it has allowed us to do though is drop our prices and we have seen a increase in sales.

B-neg might now more about it than i do.


----------



## Kriant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Im not under NDA so can say we have stopped making all EK coolants now.


That moment when you realize that all the time you spent on looking for EK clear coolant it was right here under my nose as Mayhems clear coolant


----------



## war4peace

Yesterday I rebuilt my system in a new case. I bled the Mayhems Pastel Black coolant which I had been using for 4 months with 24/7 uptime.
The liquid looked pristine. No discoloration. No change of color. No deposits of Nanoparticles in waterblocks.

Now the machine is filled with Pastel White but it has a tiny, tiny shade of Grey because despite my best efforts there was a little bit of black coolant stuck inside one of the radiators. My question is... if I buy and pour some Mayhems white dye in the reservoir, would that help?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Yesterday I rebuilt my system in a new case. I bled the Mayhems Pastel Black coolant which I had been using for 4 months with 24/7 uptime.
> The liquid looked pristine. No discoloration. No change of color. No deposits of Nanoparticles in waterblocks.
> 
> Now the machine is filled with Pastel White but it has a tiny, tiny shade of Grey because despite my best efforts there was a little bit of black coolant stuck inside one of the radiators. My question is... if I buy and pour some Mayhems white dye in the reservoir, would that help?


sorry it won't help. Black needs removing before new coolant added.









Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


----------



## war4peace

What I mean is I removed most of it, the white right now is really good but there's just a tiny bit of off-color in it. If you weren't there when I saw the few drops of black mixing in you couldn't tell.
That's why I was wondering...

But no worries, I wanted to praise the excellent quality of Pastel Black, some people were saying the nanoparticles had a tendency to settle in hard-to-reach areas, I haven't seen this except for those few drops somewhere in the radiator, but that might just as well be because of the radiator itself.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> What I mean is I removed most of it, the white right now is really good but there's just a tiny bit of off-color in it. If you weren't there when I saw the few drops of black mixing in you couldn't tell.
> That's why I was wondering...
> 
> But no worries, I wanted to praise the excellent quality of Pastel Black, some people were saying the nanoparticles had a tendency to settle in hard-to-reach areas, I haven't seen this except for those few drops somewhere in the radiator, but that might just as well be because of the radiator itself.


Do you have any photos of the Pastel Black? I've been trying to decide on which color to go with next and I've been thinking about Pastel Black


----------



## war4peace

Yes, as a matter of fact I do.
The "My Main Rig" image in my signature has the loop filled with Pastel black.

Here's a picture of the Pastel Black freshly bled from my loop yesterday.
Here is a picture of the same Pastel Black in the same bottle snapped from the bottle mouth.

Bonus: this is how organized I am when doing a new build


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's the downside to colored fluids, the flushing them out entirely. I know I still plan on using P.Extreme if and when I do my rebuild/case bi-annual case move.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Yes, as a matter of fact I do.
> The "My Main Rig" image in my signature has the loop filled with Pastel black.
> 
> Here's a picture of the Pastel Black freshly bled from my loop yesterday.
> Here is a picture of the same Pastel Black in the same bottle snapped from the bottle mouth.
> 
> Bonus: this is how organized I am when doing a new build


Amazing!

That is well organized.

And great photos.
Reperoonie+


----------



## DarthBaggins

A photo of my workspace when building or working on a vehicle would make some people's OCD go nuts.


----------



## Mayhem

Looks like aquatuning are playing dirty right now Got this in a Support request
Quote:


> Hello Mick,
> 
> I talked to Aquatuning and told me that your support in the project goes against their policies so, in my regret, I have to refuse.
> Surely there will be future projects where we could work together.
> Thank you for your positive opinion on the project.
> Soon with new projects.
> 
> All the best !
> ********** ( *********) )


The user asked for sponsorship and we said we would help him out after seeing his work. Seemingly Aquatuneing / Phobya / Alphacool are doing there best to try and put users off our products with not only lies but now they are playing unfair.

If you read this Aquatuneing / Phobya / Alphacool .... If your that desperate to buy me out and feel burnt by just offering me £10,000 for my company you need to think again. *WE / I* will not bow down to you, *WE / I* will not kiss you ass and we will not play your games. We will keep giving good / excellent customer support and better products than you can ever create. Unlike you ! we do not control our reviews nor our users and we will never decline a users request for help or support no matter whos products they use with ours. Your a disgrace to the community and to the water cooling industry and your tactics will only allow you to ruin your own business.


----------



## DocShay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Looks like aquatuning are playing dirty right now Got this in a Support request
> The user asked for sponsorship and we said we would help him out after seeing his work. Seemingly Aquatuneing / Phobya / Alphacool are doing there best to try and put users off our products with not only lies but now they are playing unfair.
> 
> If you read this Aquatuneing / Phobya / Alphacool .... If your that desperate to buy me out and feel burnt by just offering me £10,000 for my company you need to think again. *WE / I* will not bow down to you, *WE / I* will not kiss you ass and we will not play your games. We will keep giving good / excellent customer support and better products than you can ever create. Unlike you ! we do not control our reviews nor our users and we will never decline a users request for help or support no matter whos products they use with ours. Your a disgrace to the community and to the water cooling industry and your tactics will only allow you to ruin your own business.


That's greasy as hell. I already disliked those companies enough for refusing warranty if Mayhems products were used - dispite that evidence was shown that Alphacool's ****ty quality products were causing the issues. This just gives me more reason to continue to spread the word on how poorly these companies are run.

This infuriates me. Such an immature thing to do as a company. This reminds me of a child screaming and crying they don't want to play the game anymore because so and so is playing the game. Grow up, fix your crappy product control and try and rebuild your deteriorating name as a company.


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Well spoken Mick!


----------



## VSG

Eh, that's not really new or exclusive to Alphacool. Most companies have a policy wherein they would provide everything to a build first and only work with part-sponsoring depending on the modder and level of interaction.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Eh, that's not really new or exclusive to Alphacool. Most companies have a policy wherein they would provide everything to a build first and only work with part-sponsoring depending on the modder and level of interaction.


I was going to say I thought that would be common as well. Doesn't seem that far fetched to want to be the only sponsor.

That said AT is scummy, anyone remember when they tried to patent all the WC company names so no one else could sell anything in Germany?


----------



## Kriant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Looks like aquatuning are playing dirty right now Got this in a Support request
> The user asked for sponsorship and we said we would help him out after seeing his work. Seemingly Aquatuneing / Phobya / Alphacool are doing there best to try and put users off our products with not only lies but now they are playing unfair.
> 
> If you read this Aquatuneing / Phobya / Alphacool .... If your that desperate to buy me out and feel burnt by just offering me £10,000 for my company you need to think again. *WE / I* will not bow down to you, *WE / I* will not kiss you ass and we will not play your games. We will keep giving good / excellent customer support and better products than you can ever create. Unlike you ! we do not control our reviews nor our users and we will never decline a users request for help or support no matter whos products they use with ours. Your a disgrace to the community and to the water cooling industry and your tactics will only allow you to ruin your own business.


And WE / I (users) will support your company by buying your product.









Also, that is a hell of a low offer, good god.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Seemingly Aquatuneing / Phobya / Alphacool are doing there best to try and put users off our products with not only lies but now they are playing unfair.


You know what products they say wont work with your products?
I have planned my new build around LED/RGB fittings and they are one of few that has them. But I'm not sure its worth buying that many expensive fittings without support, since LEDs cant be replaced.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Looks like aquatuning are playing dirty right now Got this in a Support request
> The user asked for sponsorship and we said we would help him out after seeing his work. Seemingly Aquatuneing / Phobya / Alphacool are doing there best to try and put users off our products with not only lies but now they are playing unfair.
> 
> If you read this Aquatuneing / Phobya / Alphacool .... If your that desperate to buy me out and feel burnt by just offering me £10,000 for my company you need to think again. *WE / I* will not bow down to you, *WE / I* will not kiss you ass and we will not play your games. We will keep giving good / excellent customer support and better products than you can ever create. Unlike you ! we do not control our reviews nor our users and we will never decline a users request for help or support no matter whos products they use with ours. Your a disgrace to the community and to the water cooling industry and your tactics will only allow you to ruin your own business.


AlphaCool has been getting more and more shady recently. I asked a simple question about there bending tool not fitting there tubing correctly. They told me it's suppose to do that even when the walls constantly collapsing on it self.

Not even a month later they did a stealth release of a new bending tool which had a wider OD.

AlphaCool new Cable Sleeving products(Which is Paracord). It's more expensive then MDPC-X (Which is PET). I think AlphaCool has just developed a giant ego and they need to get knocked down to learn from there mistakes(Similar to what happened to Microsoft with the Xbox One).

I never trusted Phobya from the very beginning. There products just seem to be budget items.

I completely stopped building my loop due to the fact AlphaCool tubing was a mess(It was there Satin tubing, Which if you ask me they overcharge for some simple color change). Now I'm just waiting on Performance-pcs or Mayhem Webstore to get more tubing in for there 16mm glass tubing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Alphastool.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Yesterday I rebuilt my system in a new case. I bled the Mayhems Pastel Black coolant which I had been using for 4 months with 24/7 uptime.
> The liquid looked pristine. No discoloration. No change of color. No deposits of Nanoparticles in waterblocks.
> 
> Now the machine is filled with Pastel White but it has a tiny, tiny shade of Grey because despite my best efforts there was a little bit of black coolant stuck inside one of the radiators. My question is... if I buy and pour some Mayhems white dye in the reservoir, would that help?
> 
> 
> 
> sorry it won't help. Black needs removing before new coolant added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I have the same problem removing old colours and changing to new ones, it always seems to be the radiator because you cant open it up to clean it out properly, even flushing it out and shaking it around 10+ times with water doesn't seem to work, does anyone have any better technique for cleaning out radiators as well as possible?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Looks like aquatuning are playing dirty right now Got this in a Support request
> The user asked for sponsorship and we said we would help him out after seeing his work. Seemingly Aquatuneing / Phobya / Alphacool are doing there best to try and put users off our products with not only lies but now they are playing unfair.
> 
> If you read this Aquatuneing / Phobya / Alphacool .... If your that desperate to buy me out and feel burnt by just offering me £10,000 for my company you need to think again. *WE / I* will not bow down to you, *WE / I* will not kiss you ass and we will not play your games. We will keep giving good / excellent customer support and better products than you can ever create. Unlike you ! we do not control our reviews nor our users and we will never decline a users request for help or support no matter whos products they use with ours. Your a disgrace to the community and to the water cooling industry and your tactics will only allow you to ruin your own business.
> 
> 
> 
> AlphaCool has been getting more and more shady recently.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I asked a simple question about there bending tool not fitting there tubing correctly. They told me it's suppose to do that even when the walls constantly collapsing on it self.
> 
> Not even a month later they did a stealth release of a new bending tool which had a wider OD.
> 
> AlphaCool new Cable Sleeving products(Which is Paracord). It's more expensive then MDPC-X (Which is PET). I think AlphaCool has just developed a giant ego and they need to get knocked down to learn from there mistakes(Similar to what happened to Microsoft with the Xbox One).
> 
> I never trusted Phobya from the very beginning. There products just seem to be budget items.
> 
> I completely stopped building my loop due to the fact AlphaCool tubing was a mess(It was there Satin tubing, Which if you ask me they overcharge for some simple color change). Now I'm just waiting on Performance-pcs or Mayhem Webstore to get more tubing in for there 16mm glass tubing.
Click to expand...

someone linked this to me and this seems to cement the issue even further in that its not a good idea to buy from alphacool http://www.overclock.net/t/1624192/alphacool-pump-vpp755-review-of-noise-issues-and-problems


----------



## Mayhem

If you use part 2 of the Mayhems blitz kit with warm water it will remove all colours from the system. But as said above you need to be like a mad man and get the cleaner in all the corners of the rad.


----------



## Mayhem

We have had quite a few questions ref EK new Full aluminium Kit. We will be buying there new Kit and running full tests and Mix ratio's on X1, XT-1, Pastel (all versions and as many diffrent colours as we can) and just biocide on its own. This will take time testing but hopefully we will be in a much better position to answer all your questions to the best of our knowledge on this product ...... (head in hands moment) ....


----------



## Kriant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have had quite a few questions ref EK new Full aluminium Kit. We will be buying there new Kit and running full tests and Mix ratio's on X1, XT-1, Pastel (all versions and as many diffrent colours as we can) and just biocide on its own. This will take time testing but hopefully we will be in a much better position to answer all your questions to the best of our knowledge on this product ...... (head in hands moment) ....


Why would anyone want to by
Quote:


> Full *aluminium* Kit


, it's like a death sentence to your watercooling expansion down the line, unless you plan on running aluminum only loop. We all know that once you have the first taste of Watercooling is hard to go back, very hard. In fact it took a tremendous amount of self-discipline not to by blocks for my cards this time around. And I'm not sure there are a lot of *aluminum* gpu blocks out there.


----------



## Mayhem

Im not going to comment on performance or any thing like that just do our due diligence so we can better inform you lot with what we or i think is best foot forwards.. How ever i fully underd Why EK have done it but if i can produce a Cooling kit for in copper / brass for less than £150 then why can we not see more like that instead. I think the final testing we may mix it up with copper and see what happens.


----------



## hadesfactor

from my understanding they plan on releasing add-ons for their kits as time goes on


----------



## Cyber Locc

Mayhems Pastel Extreme, white to black, possible?


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Mayhems Pastel Extreme, white to black, possible?


All Mayhem Pastel is made with Ice Dragon Nanofluid, which is white. Unless they have changed there formula.
So making it black, is possible, but cant remember which dyes you combine to get it.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> All Mayhem Pastel is made with Ice Dragon Nanofluid, which is white. Unless they have changed there formula.
> So making it black, is possible, but cant remember which dyes you combine to get it.


Ya I know it only comes in white. The dyes was the question, just use Oil Black and call it a day?


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh it is you need purple and yellow to make black.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yeh it is you need purple and yellow to make black.


Thank you very much







.


----------



## Dyekid217

I'm in the middle of a case move/makeover of my build and wanted some input from you guys. I've been using Mayhems pastel white for the past two years without ever draining and refilling my loop. It turned quite green but surprisingly didn't leave too much gunk behind. There was a bit of algae buildup but I didn't have my loop configured in the most optimal way so it is understandable. The res/pump was on its side and the tubing was a bit kinked. Part of the reason for me not cleaning it out sooner was the lack of a drain valve.







Overall very pleased with the coolant performance and clean up. I will be taking much better care of my loop this go around and want to know if I should stick with pastel or switch to XT-1 for a translucent look. I'm on the fence of keeping it ice white since I painted my parts but I think a blood red in pastel or XT-1 could look just as good if not better. What do you guys think? And the main differences between pastel/XT-1?


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> I'm in the middle of a case move/makeover of my build and wanted some input from you guys. I've been using Mayhems pastel white for the past two years without ever draining and refilling my loop. It turned quite green but surprisingly didn't leave too much gunk behind. There was a bit of algae buildup but I didn't have my loop configured in the most optimal way so it is understandable. The res/pump was on its side and the tubing was a bit kinked. Part of the reason for me not cleaning it out sooner was the lack of a drain valve.
> 
> Overall very pleased with the coolant performance and clean up. I will be taking much better care of my loop this go around and want to know if I should stick with pastel or switch to XT-1 for a translucent look. I'm on the fence of keeping it ice white since I painted my parts but I think a blood red in pastel or XT-1 could look just as good if not better. What do you guys think? And the main differences between pastel/XT-1?


This is question that will give you multiple answers and all of them could be correct as it's a subjective one. Me personally I like pastels. Others will swear by just water with nuke, and others XT. Really it's all about what you like and want. As far as the algae build up, I would def flush everything with either distilled vinegar/distilled water or Mayhems blitz. My guess is that your issue has a lot to do with the ph and temp of your loop. What have been your temps idle and load?


----------



## Dyekid217

Hey! Thanks for the response, I actually did flush with distilled vinegar/distilled water and will also run a loop of the mix to leak test and further flush the system. Once that is done and drained I will run/flush it again with straight distilled water. Every part was disassembled and thoroughly cleaned so far so I am not too concerned now with buildup as it was quick and easy.

My temp idle was 30C and my load temp around 45C. They were better when the loop was originally installed.

I was mainly asking what the main difference in performance is between XT-1 and pastel. I see that the life span of xt-1 is much shorter.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> Hey! Thanks for the response, I actually did flush with distilled vinegar/distilled water and will also run a loop of the mix to leak test and further flush the system. Once that is done and drained I will run/flush it again with straight distilled water. Every part was disassembled and thoroughly cleaned so far so I am not too concerned now with buildup as it was quick and easy.
> 
> My temp idle was 30C and my load temp around 45C. They were better when the loop was originally installed.
> 
> I was mainly asking what the main difference in performance is between XT-1 and pastel. I see that the life span of xt-1 is much shorter.


Its still gonna be up to personal preference....I like to clean my loop regardless every year primarily cause I live in Arizona and our outside temps this time of the year are 105+ ....me personal I like Pastels a lot and have always had really good performance with them. I haven't used XT because prior I just used distilled water. If I remember correctly I think Mayhems is coming out with another line but I can't remember is its another pastel line or what. Just keep in mind, XT-1 doesn't work well with primoflex LRT or PETG tubing as it's Ethylene glycol based....most people I know that use it, use it for sub-temps


----------



## Dyekid217

Ok great thanks for all the help. I can assume that the algae buildup was due to the way my res was sitting. The algae was building up at the bottom of the tube while the inlet/outlet were facing up. I assume that due to this not being an optimal flow there was some stagnation going on within the res.

One last question.. if I were to do a blood red pastel do I need to follow the instructions in this video? Using half of the ice white concentrate and 100ML of the x-1 clear?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyezjUb76lY

Wouldn't it create the same effect just by using your normal ice white pastel and red/blue dyes?


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> Ok great thanks for all the help. I can assume that the algae buildup was due to the way my res was sitting. The algae was building up at the bottom of the tube while the inlet/outlet were facing up. I assume that due to this not being an optimal flow there was some stagnation going on within the res.
> 
> One last question.. if I were to do a blood red pastel do I need to follow the instructions in this video? Using half of the ice white concentrate and 100ML of the x-1 clear?
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyezjUb76lY
> 
> Wouldn't it create the same effect just by using your normal ice white pastel and red/blue dyes?


If your res wasn't fully circulating all of the water then you have a flow issue as you mentioned tech the way your res is facing shouldn't be a problem it really matter how the pump is facing but as long as the pump is being fed by water you're good you might have to ramp up your pumps speed a little...optimally you want at the min 1 gpm 1.5 gpm seems to be the best imo. As far as the blood red Im not too sure but the do make a red pastel and deep red dye so I'm guessing you can just add more dye to the red to achieve your color but someone could answer this better then I.


----------



## Dyekid217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> If your res wasn't fully circulating all of the water then you have a flow issue as you mentioned tech the way your res is facing shouldn't be a problem it really matter how the pump is facing but as long as the pump is being fed by water you're good you might have to ramp up your pumps speed a little...optimally you want at the min 1 gpm 1.5 gpm seems to be the best imo. As far as the blood red Im not too sure but the do make a red pastel and deep red dye so I'm guessing you can just add more dye to the red to achieve your color but someone could answer this better then I.


My new case will allow me to mount the res properly and I will also turn up the pump speed. I have a d5 photon 170 by XSPC which was set to a speed of 3.. I will bump it up some to see if that helps.

Thanks again for the help! I'll wait to see if others know an answer to my blood red question.


----------



## Revan654

Got first shipment of Glass tubing. Now just waiting on any webstore to get some of the 90 degree curves(Hopefully Mayhems Webstore or store in US).



+

Making sure I have all proper safety gear, Since glass dust can be very dangerous if inhaled

I still have a bunch of Safety Goggles from Blitz Kits. Hopefully those are acceptable for this.

+




Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009POHH94/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think this filter should work for the glass dust.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Got first shipment of Glass tubing. Now just waiting on any webstore to get some of the 90 degree curves(Hopefully Mayhems Webstore or store in US).
> 
> 
> 
> +
> 
> Making sure I have all proper safety gear, Since glass dust can be very dangerous if inhaled
> 
> I still have a bunch of Safety Goggles from Blitz Kits. Hopefully those are acceptable for this.
> 
> +
> 
> I think this filter should work for the glass dust.


Cant wait to see the final result!....also as long as the mask can filter dust period you will be fine. Glass dust isn't microscopic especially the way you will be cutting and snapping honestly you prob won't even need one but better be safe then sorry, so you should be good with those. Honestly I never even go that far just the standard thro away ones


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Cant wait to see the final result!....also as long as the mask can filter dust period you will be fine. Glass dust isn't microscopic especially the way you will be cutting and snapping honestly you prob won't even need one but better be safe then sorry, so you should be good with those. Honestly I never even go that far just the standard thro away ones


Thanks. Some safety gear is when I solder. I'm just carrying it over to this.

Saw this on another thread, One webstore has this on there site.

Mayhems fluids void the warranties offered by the following manufacturers:
Koolance, Phobya, Alphacool, Aqua Computer, Watercool.
Use is therefore at one's own risk.
More info about Mayhems liquid can be found here:
https://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems-coolant-guide

It's from this Thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1624192/alphacool-pump-vpp755-review-of-noise-issues-and-problems

AlphaCool just doesn't give up do they? What did Mayhem ever do to AlphaCool to cause this? Did they kick there puppy or something?


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Thanks. Some safety gear is when I solder. I'm just carrying it over to this.
> 
> Saw this on another thread, One webstore has this on there site.
> 
> Mayhems fluids void the warranties offered by the following manufacturers:
> Koolance, Phobya, Alphacool, Aqua Computer, Watercool.
> Use is therefore at one's own risk.
> More info about Mayhems liquid can be found here:
> https://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems-coolant-guide
> 
> It's from this Thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1624192/alphacool-pump-vpp755-review-of-noise-issues-and-problems
> 
> AlphaCool just doesn't give up do they? What did Mayhem ever do to AlphaCool to cause this? Did they kick there puppy or something?


LOL yeah its just a way not honor anything since the majority of people use Mayhems....oh our stuff screwed up...you used mayhems mustve been them and not us HA!


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> I'm in the middle of a case move/makeover of my build and wanted some input from you guys. I've been using Mayhems pastel white for the past two years without ever draining and refilling my loop. It turned quite green but surprisingly didn't leave too much gunk behind. There was a bit of algae buildup but I didn't have my loop configured in the most optimal way so it is understandable. The res/pump was on its side and the tubing was a bit kinked. Part of the reason for me not cleaning it out sooner was the lack of a drain valve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall very pleased with the coolant performance and clean up. I will be taking much better care of my loop this go around and want to know if I should stick with pastel or switch to XT-1 for a translucent look. I'm on the fence of keeping it ice white since I painted my parts but I think a blood red in pastel or XT-1 could look just as good if not better. What do you guys think? And the main differences between pastel/XT-1?


The green on the block is from your tube not alga build up. This is common with some types of rubber tubing. The coolant has lifted it and it has got caught in your fins. The Coolants doing what it should do and lift the crap and suspending it, how ever your fins act as a filter and catch all the crap in there. This is why maintenance yearly is a good thing. You will be able to reuse your coolant if you send it though a couple of coffee filters







.

Jobs a good one


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Saw this on another thread, One webstore has this on there site.
> 
> Mayhems fluids void the warranties offered by the following manufacturers:
> Koolance, Phobya, Alphacool, Aqua Computer, Watercool.
> Use is therefore at one's own risk.
> More info about Mayhems liquid can be found here:
> https://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems-coolant-guide


Still finds this weird, as there products is not that different when it comes to materials, from EK and Bitspower. So why does it remove warranty with 1 kind of product, but not on the "identical" one from another brand?

I use EK and Bitspower as an example, as it seems those are the 2, most big companies (like Asus) went to when they wanted custom blocks for there products, these last few years. Heck, EK sold rebranded Mayhems liquid till recently.


----------



## Mayhem

Oky testing is nearly complete on Monsoons hard tube and i'm elated to say! so far this has to be the best Hard tubing all round. The PETG tubing has had the least amount of movement and what was surprising to me was all the information and documentation Monsoon provided with the samples was exemplary. They acrylic tubing all so pasted with flying colour which was expected as we haven't seen any manufacturers of this type of product fail on any testing.

I will update the Tubing guide next week once i get some time.


----------



## Leonko

is there any difference among PETG tube types regarding purity ? is other more "clear" then another?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky testing is nearly complete on Monsoons hard tube and i'm elated to say! so far this has to be the best Hard tubing all round. The PETG tubing has had the least amount of movement and what was surprising to me was all the information and documentation Monsoon provided with the samples was exemplary. They acrylic tubing all so pasted with flying colour which was expected as we haven't seen any manufacturers of this type of product fail on any testing.
> 
> I will update the Tubing guide next week once i get some time.


Being such a small company, MonSoon does produces some nice products & most of the time there of great quality. Also should note MonSoon uses imperial system for most of there items, there is one set of fittings that uses the metric system(I believe). I think there tubing is also imperial, If you want to mix BitsPower & MonSoon it may not work together.

I know it's taboo around here but AlphaCool & MonSoon definitely doesn't work together (I have tested it my self).


----------



## Mayhem

Removed due to us now speaking with AT and getting issues sorted.


----------



## Dyekid217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The green on the block is from your tube not alga build up. This is common with some types of rubber tubing. The coolant has lifted it and it has got caught in your fins. The Coolants doing what it should do and lift the crap and suspending it, how ever your fins act as a filter and catch all the crap in there. This is why maintenance yearly is a good thing. You will be able to reuse your coolant if you send it though a couple of coffee filters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Jobs a good one


Great to know!! Quick question for you can I create a blood red using the deep red dye and a normal mixture of ice white pastel? I saw that the video recommended half X1 clear and half of the concentrate. Wondering if I just add deep red or red/blue will end up more like pink.


----------



## Mayhem

When making Blood Red use a tiny tiny amount of Blue. Best way to do this is to water down the blue dye before adding it. Say 1 drop of water down blue to 5ml of water then and tint the red with the dye.


----------



## Dyekid217

Ok great. Do you recommend using the Red/pink or the deep red? Not sure what the actual difference is.


----------



## Mayhem

Id recommend using Red dye not the non stain. non stain is fine as long as you do not use a lot. But it looks pink unless you use tonnes. The main issue using non stain its meant to just tint fluids, if you use a lot it contains a spherical coating that hard tubing or PETG will use it capillary action to suck up the dye and will look like staining when its actually not, its just the way tubing like that reacts.


----------



## Leonko

so basically non stain stain tubes and classic dont


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh non stain doesn't stain hands, wood, carpet ect ect, but because of capillary action in certain types of tubing it is sucked up easier.. Kind of mental i know.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Nothing is taboo When it comes to telling the truth.
> 
> 
> 
> Think B Neg has the best name for them though. Just my feelings right now.


I just call them AlphaCrap. I have shown them proof of issue I was having with there item all they told me was "It's fine" & never heard back from them again.


----------



## war4peace

I was wondering about something...
With my first loop I never cared about liquid temperature, never had a sensor anyway, and left the loop heat up quite a lot, had my fans only turn on when the CPU idle temperature went above 50 degrees Celsius (and I assume the liquid temperature was more or less the same). The loop ran for months like this, 24/7, first with EK's clear liquid then with Mayhems Pastel Black. After bleeding my loop for rebuilding and expanding purposes, I have noticed no liquid discoloration or any observable change.

So the question is: what's the recommended maximum liquid temperature and what can go wrong if the liquid stays at relatively high temperatures (40-45-50 degrees Celsius)?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I was wondering about something...
> With my first loop I never cared about liquid temperature, never had a sensor anyway, and left the loop heat up quite a lot, had my fans only turn on when the CPU idle temperature went above 50 degrees Celsius (and I assume the liquid temperature was more or less the same). The loop ran for months like this, 24/7, first with EK's clear liquid then with Mayhems Pastel Black. After bleeding my loop for rebuilding and expanding purposes, I have noticed no liquid discoloration or any observable change.
> 
> So the question is: what's the recommended maximum liquid temperature and what can go wrong if the liquid stays at relatively high temperatures (40-45-50 degrees Celsius)?


Can't give a clear cut answer since allot of the data will be based of your room temp, CFM of the fans, Radiators, etc.... Mine usually stay at 30 at idle. Certain tubing will warn you stating do not exceed 60C. 40C is fine, If you want lower temps, It might be a good idea to add another radiator or start to tweak fan speeds to get better cooling for your rads.


----------



## war4peace

Right now my room temperature is 23 degrees celsius, fans are at 1000 RPM or slower, water temperature is at 31.7 degrees Celsius. I got plenty of cooling surface with 2x XE360 radiators, was even pondering to get an extra 280 but scrapped that idea as "too much".
I was just wondering... because I could set a set point controller to aim at 40 degrees with a hysteresis of 2-3 degrees Celsius and enjoy silent computing.
Thanks for the answer!


----------



## orbitalwalsh

thought id drop these here- been lucky enough to receive some kit off Mayhems and seeking peoples view on if I should stick to my default plan of Blue Pastel colour or mix it up to grey ??

Build is a sponsored build which acts as a point of sale rather then a mod.

Tubing will be a mixture of Glass supplied from Mayhems and Satin/Frosted tubing from Alphacool to match the custom Parvum Systems case



*GPU test loop* - yes it works!




as you can see case if Clear and Frosted Clear Acrylic with Gigabytes Silver z270 board.
Really wanted to strip to coating off the Alphacool GPX block and the Aorus backplate but must keep it stock looking for the time being =(

just wanted to see peoples view on sticking with a Baby Blue colour or going off white-grey to match the case?
LED will be blue and only LED colour will be provided by the mobo and gpu- as you can see the case amplifies the lighting!

Have been watching videos seeing how users add didn't colours to change the system on the fly but issue is to get the bright baby blue/light blue as to be done off the bat with white base. guessing I can change to Grey from it but don't think I could go back?

***
also peoples thoughts on using Mayhems Pastel with Aurora Booster? - might not be for permanent usage but for photoshoot?

will use the test loop to see but wanted to hear users thoughts











and once again, thanks Mayhems


----------



## Stickeelion

Personally I'd go UV clear or UV pastel white with that build


----------



## Mayhem

I think a light Pastel blue would look very appealing.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Managed to get some time on a lunch break to add some blue











but forgot to take a snap when the case and board were lit up, might need some more blue to darken it a bit


----------



## Mayhem

See its brakes up the contrast a little. very nice







Now glass that baby.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> See its brakes up the contrast a little. very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now glass that baby.


Just need to de-lid the CPU and prey it works . Then to get wet ...

And blitz the 360 rad first !

Would of loved to add some aurora booster but GPU is restrictive bottleneck :/


----------



## Mayhem

I can help there but advise not to tbh.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


----------



## Iceman2733

What would be the closest color to anti-freeze? Didn't know if a UV green would or do I need to go to yellow color for it? Sorry having to order online and hate to order wrong stuff. Even tho having too much Mayhems is never really a bad thing


----------



## 414347

That baby blue looks so nice


----------



## kevindd992002

@Mayhem

If I were to do maintenance on a loop (IIRC you do it once a year or once every 6 months? Please confirm) like you do, how many UV Green Pastel concentrate bottles do you think I should keep to avoid having even one being expired through time? I hope that makes sense. My loop would have one gpu block, one gpu block, one 360mm rad, 1 280mm rad, 1 450ml aqualis xt pro res, and 1 ek d5 pump.


----------



## Stickeelion

They officially say they can be stored up to 3 years. I don't know if that is just advised or a hard deadline you shouldn't exceed. I've used stuff that had a 3 year expiry but sat for 4-5 years and it's been fine, YMMV.

For the amount you need, fill your look with water, drain it into a large bottle and use that to measure how many liters look at how many liters the bottle will make up when mixed (some make 1 some make 2) and then multiply that by 6 if you want to refill every 6 months or by 3 refilling for every year to get how much you'll want


----------



## hadesfactor

Just for you ref...i have 2 loops...each one has 150mm res,alphacool nexxxos xt45 cpu has 3 blocks..2 ram 1 mono and my 2md loop has the gpu....they both take a 1000ml each which is 1 bottle of pastel concentrate...keep in mind i have a big case 900d pumps in the bottom amd drain tubes and my res are filled to the brim lol each loop took 1 bottle


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @Mayhem
> 
> If I were to do maintenance on a loop (IIRC you do it once a year or once every 6 months? Please confirm) like you do, how many UV Green Pastel concentrate bottles do you think I should keep to avoid having even one being expired through time? I hope that makes sense. My loop would have one gpu block, one gpu block, one 360mm rad, 1 280mm rad, 1


Do it once a year, but you should be able to use fluid again if you put though coffee filter. Once open and if you keep it out of direct sun light it will last and still keep working for years.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I can help there but advise not to tbh.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


No worries, trying to think if I can recreate baby blue in Aurora 2 formula for photos and if I can get it to Insomnia on time .

Also, any colour advice to make the baby blue a bit brighter ? Wasn't sure if adding a drop of another colour would bring it out a bit more, add any more blue and will be to dark and seems the white was quite strong so had to add more blue then intended .
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> That baby blue looks so nice


Thanks









Will de-lid tonight and may stick the CPU on soft tubing to do a bit of iverclocking before hardloop


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> They officially say they can be stored up to 3 years. I don't know if that is just advised or a hard deadline you shouldn't exceed. I've used stuff that had a 3 year expiry but sat for 4-5 years and it's been fine, YMMV.
> 
> For the amount you need, fill your look with water, drain it into a large bottle and use that to measure how many liters look at how many liters the bottle will make up when mixed (some make 1 some make 2) and then multiply that by 6 if you want to refill every 6 months or by 3 refilling for every year to get how much you'll want


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Just for you ref...i have 2 loops...each one has 150mm res,alphacool nexxxos xt45 cpu has 3 blocks..2 ram 1 mono and my 2md loop has the gpu....they both take a 1000ml each which is 1 bottle of pastel concentrate...keep in mind i have a big case 900d pumps in the bottom amd drain tubes and my res are filled to the brim lol each loop took 1 bottle


Thank you both for the suggestions.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Do it once a year, but you should be able to use fluid again if you put though coffee filter. Once open and if you keep it out of direct sun light it will last and still keep working for years.


And if I want to create just around 500ml of mixed coolant, I would just use half a bottle of the concentrate, right? How about when you mix it into a solution already, how long does the mixture last if kept from direct sunlight and put under the sink?


----------



## phatkat

apologies for interjecting I figured this would be best place to ask:
are there any plans for mayhem to make booster dye in different color?


----------



## Mayhem

You mean for aurora?

We could do in the future if there is calls for it, but time wont allow it for the moment.


----------



## Revan654

The rest of my glass tubing has arrived. All 90 degree bends direct from the UK(It was only shipped less then 12 hours ago too).



I can start to build the loop once again after cables are finished.


----------



## mixsetup

Hi I had some Mayhems Aurora 2 tharsis Red Concentrate in my loop and as I had problems Mayhems sent me a bottle which has Aurora Red concentrate on the label is this the same thing?


----------



## Mayhem

Yes. We dropped the number


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> The rest of my glass tubing has arrived. All 90 degree bends direct from the UK(It was only shipped less then 12 hours ago too).
> 
> 
> 
> I can start to build the loop once again after cables are finished.


Ar so that is who bought it all....... OCUK


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> And if I want to create just around 500ml of mixed coolant, I would just use half a bottle of the concentrate, right? How about when you mix it into a solution already, how long does the mixture last if kept from direct sunlight and put under the sink?


@Mayhem

Just a follow-up on this question.


----------



## Mayhem

Personally i would just mix what you need (500ml in your case), seal it back up and then there good for a few more years.


----------



## Radmanhs

Anyone try the silver aurora booster with pastel blue? Seems like it would look pretty sweet if it shows up


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Anyone try the silver aurora booster with pastel blue? Seems like it would look pretty sweet if it shows up


I asked, is do-able but not recommended as I believe the Pastel fluid is naturally denser already the aurora fluid but I could be wrong

Had baby blue myself and would of loved a bit of silver sparkle but using Alphacool blocks which are very restrictive


----------



## phatkat

this is actually what I was getting at too with my previous questions, though I thought this was doable but can definitely be mistaken about that

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> I asked, is do-able but not recommended as I believe the Pastel fluid is naturally denser already the aurora fluid but I could be wrong
> 
> Had baby blue myself and would of loved a bit of silver sparkle but using Alphacool blocks which are very restrictive


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phatkat*
> 
> this is actually what I was getting at too with my previous questions, though I thought this was doable but can definitely be mistaken about that


worst case- build a test system. cpu and pump/res and having it running when your pc is- not connected to anything . Should see after a good amount of turning on and off your pc for different amount of times is you get any build up, pressure drops , suspension drop out .

If all good- then plumb and mix away


----------



## maybach123

does mayhems still make gold fluid? I cant find it on their website.


----------



## Mayhem

We make a Gold booster, We stopped making just the gold premixed as it was a slow seller. You can use the booster with any X1 or XT-1 mix to make your very own Aurora or boost other colours.


----------



## Mayhem

We have received many support calls (i do mean a lot) ref the new aluminium kit released by EK. Now being who we are! We do not just say it doesn't work or it does, we actually buy it in (off the shelf products) and we will test it to the best of our ability and let you know the facts. Extreme unbiased mode going to action ... !!!!! Shame i'm not a reviewer because i'm sure my personal thoughts on this would be interesting... On with the job of testing !!!!!



I also need to update our Tubing chart as i have a few to add.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have received many support calls (i do mean a lot) ref the new aluminium kit released by EK. Now being who we are! We do not just say it doesn't work or it does, we actually buy it in (off the shelf products) and we will test it to the best of our ability and let you know the facts. Extreme unbiased mode going to action ... !!!!! Shame i'm not a reviewer because i'm sure my personal thoughts on this would be interesting... On with the job of testing !!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> I also need to update our Tubing chart as i have a few to add.


Good Luck. Hopefully it's just tweaking one of two things throughout the line to get the best out of it or to be 100% compatible

finally got the baby blue mix just right







now just to wait for Parvum to get the remade panel to me, Hard tube and Blitz it all out !


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








wondering if I've got the balls to drop in some Silver booster - Not to stir up all the Alpha Vs mayhem Blah Blah that has happened but knowing that There would be low head pressure in the D5 will the about of bends and the two Restrictive Blocks - and the most important factor- my person use maybe 2 hours a week.
Main reason for wanting to try is with the Res tube- a taller one will be used- the motion looks flat- there is obviously flow movement but with the Pastel fluid it looks solid/flat - if that makes sense. Would be nice just to simulate the movement that is happening


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have received many support calls (i do mean a lot) ref the new aluminium kit released by EK. Now being who we are! We do not just say it doesn't work or it does, we actually buy it in (off the shelf products) and we will test it to the best of our ability and let you know the facts. Extreme unbiased mode going to action ... !!!!! Shame i'm not a reviewer because i'm sure my personal thoughts on this would be interesting... On with the job of testing !!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> I also need to update our Tubing chart as i have a few to add.
> 
> 
> 
> Good Luck. Hopefully it's just tweaking one of two things throughout the line to get the best out of it or to be 100% compatible
> 
> finally got the baby blue mix just right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now just to wait for Parvum to get the remade panel to me, Hard tube and Blitz it all out !
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wondering if I've got the balls to drop in some Silver booster - Not to stir up all the Alpha Vs mayhem Blah Blah that has happened but knowing that There would be low head pressure in the D5 will the about of bends and the two Restrictive Blocks - and the most important factor- my person use maybe 2 hours a week.
> Main reason for wanting to try is with the Res tube- a taller one will be used- the motion looks flat- there is obviously flow movement but with the Pastel fluid it looks solid/flat - if that makes sense. Would be nice just to simulate the movement that is happening
Click to expand...

I would not. !!!!! In fact i implore you not to. !!! Save your self a strip down later on that a lovely looking rig. Old saying if its working leave it alone







.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> I would not. !!!!! In fact i implore you not to. !!! Save your self a strip down later on that a lovely looking rig. Old saying if its working leave it alone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


To be honest its tempting because it needs to be striped down for all the hard tubing and the 2nd rad to be Blitzed and fitted .
Seen a few people ask here and other forums about mixing the two - even if its just a short run of a day it would be a fun experiment


----------



## kevindd992002

@Mayhem

Is it necessary to worry about the storage of the Blitz Kit Pro also? Is it also advisable to store it under the sink?


----------



## Mayhem

As with all chemicals they do have a storage life time. The blitz kit has about a 2 year life span in total how ever acid is acid and will all ways need to be stored in a safe out of the way environment.


----------



## Mayhem

You can mix and that how i can create a Silvery metallic looking fluid.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Anyone try the silver aurora booster with pastel blue? Seems like it would look pretty sweet if it shows up


yes and don't do it. The pastel blocks it. Only able to see it in the reservoir and had to put my face to see it. That being said aurora with light blue transparent fluid actually makes it look kinda solid and somewhat close to pastel. I tried aurora twice with pastel and I couldn't see it without putting my face in the case. I also used it with X1 and it worked well for a few months.


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We make a Gold booster, We stopped making just the gold premixed as it was a slow seller. You can use the booster with any X1 or XT-1 mix to make your very own Aurora or boost other colours.


does the aurora still cause the issues it used to or could i run it in my loop for more than a few days?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> As with all chemicals they do have a storage life time. The blitz kit has about a 2 year life span in total how ever acid is acid and will all ways need to be stored in a safe out of the way environment.


Ok. So I take it there's no problem storing the whole box under the sink then? Or just the liquids themselves?


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh i see no issue with it, As long as it doesn't get wet under there







.


----------



## DeadpoolUK

OK, so i figure i should share this experience since that's how people research products online and take peoples experiences into consideration, i've just had to shoot off a message to the mayhems customer support team on their site,

i was using mayhems pastel white in my system and after only a couple of days temps were rising significantly compared to the distilled water i was using before in the same loop, after a week roughly it became so bad that my stock clocked i76700K was hitting 70 degrees at 20% load and 50 degrees just browsing the web or idle, so i drained the system and the inside of my res and the helix inside that res are COVERED in a red/brown gunk that's actually stained them, i spent nearly an hour on each trying to clean them tonight and both the walls of the res and the helix are stained, that's £60 of res/pump combo damaged. then i fitted my old cpu block thinking maybe that gunk has blocked up my cpu block (Heatkiller IV) and filled the rest of the system with the gpu still attached (Aorus GTX1080ti extreme with EKWB full cover block and backplate, the temps didn't go ridiculous on the gpu with the pastel so i left it in, maybe it has wider channels?) using just distilled water again after a flush to clean out any pastel fluid left in it, fired it all up and its perfect again, even when benchmarking under synthetic load the fans didn't even have to move from their idle speeds of 300rpm.

I cant open the heatkiller cpu block because 1) i don't know how and 2) it will void any warranty on it which i'm not willing to do on a £60 cpu block since its not my fault its no longer working, Also the system was running perfectly for ages before the pastel fluid went in and the distilled water i drained before filling with pastel was immaculate, no bits at all, i did a LOT of flushing before i installed any of the components originally, and all the components in the loop were ordered only after checking that they didn't conflict with the pastel fluid at all since i was always planning on using pastel from before i started the water cooling build.

I cant see any reasons at all for it to have done this but for some reason it has and its left me with a £60 pump/res combo that's stained and ill need to replace now, a £60 CPU block that no longer work and will need replacing, and another 1.5 litres of pastel white that i cant use because i don't want it to ruin anything else that i put it in, i ordered 2 litres to be sure i could regularly clean it out since there were a lot of horror stories online about it but to last a week before completely ruining a loop has to be some kind of record for it surely.

now i have to wait to hear back and see who is paying for the parts and fluid, i need the fluid refunded since it wont be going back into my system again and the parts that are now stained or ruined to be replaced or refunded too, and i don't know if mayhems are responsible being the makers of the fluid or scan.co.uk who i bought the fluid from myself. if anyone can let me know about that i would really appreciate that too by the way.

p.s. i forgot to mention that it started being just 2 cores that were getting hot then 3 then all 4, i was convinced i had moved the block slightly when changing the fluid so i changed the thermal paste twice thinking it was just bad spread but turns out it wasnt that at all.


----------



## hadesfactor

@DeadPoolUK Honestly this sounds like you have an issue with your block or other restriction not the fluid. If it was the fluid it would be replicating across both loops. You said you flushed your system when you 1st set it up but you didn not flush it when you drained the loop? That is one of the whole purposes of draining the loop is to open everything up and clean/flush all of the components. Blocks will sometimes leach oils from their gaskets etc and the micro fins will catch all the particles. Pastel will not stain anything...this is my 2nd build Im using it in with no issues. What you have to remember is that 2/3 of that is distilled water so no matter what it will remove heat if nothing is wrong with your loop. Honestly, not being able to open your block is pretty dumb as how are you expected to clean the plates and fins? The horror stories are 90% attributed to certain colors like yellows and reds not the white and for the most part that has been attributed to a combo of PH and contaminants from not flushing properly etc. When you used distilled what did you put in the distilled for an additive? Pastel isnt that think that it will cause restrictions on its own but if your pumps is only putting out .5gpm to begin with it is a little "thicker" than reg distilled so it is possible that a combo of your pump not having enough pressure and adding a liquid that is thicker then distilled? Can you post a pic of your loop so we can get a better idea of all of the components plus a pic of the gunk etc.

No matter what you have an issue I just don't think it was caused by the white pastel but maybe exasperated an existing issue.

Also as far as your cores go....the fluid has absolutely nothing to do with certain cores getting hotter then the others that COULD be because of incorrect use of TIM and not seating properly/flush....if it not cooling it would be all cores all the time unless those cores aren't being used by your processes.

What is your ambient temp and water temp (if you have water temp sensors)

I'm very curious to the cause of this myself lol sorry its the engineer in me


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## DeadpoolUK

Ok so i didnt explain clearly, i did flush the loop between the change of fluids, i didnt just dump the distilled i was using and run pastel, and you said about only 1 loop being affected but im only running one loop so i dont know what you mean by that, the gpu block has channels that are visible and you can see the fluid going through because they arent as small as the cpu channels, the cpu block you cant see fluid passing through them, so whatever the fluid did to gunk up the res and cpu block wasnt thick enough to block the gpu block, the thermal paste isnt the issue at all, that wasnt changed or moved at all when switching from distilled to pastel and it was perfect before the pastel went in and ran cool, as soon as the pastel went in the temps started rising and suddenly certain cores started getting hotter than others, i tried changing the paste because like you i thought it cant be the block and must be the paste but that did nothing to help on the 3 attempts i made, im running a d5 vario on speed 3 which is i think around 3000rpm, the fluid was running perfectly when i first put it in and i could see it running in the res, once again ive put distilled back into it and its all running perfectly again now and a lot cooler than it was, i dont have a water temp sensor on my loop and i dont have any readings from it i just remember checking it and it was sitting at 40-45 degrees when gaming on the 1st day of pastel and it was hitting 70 degrees last night after ive even had to drop the setting the medium for everything cpu bound hoping for cooler temps and the cpu load itself was tiny. and as for pastel not staining anything it clearly does because these parts are DEFINITELY stained and they werent stained when i was running distilled water for weeks before it.

At the end of the day i changed nothing in my loop but the fluid and suddenly got a load of problems and damage, whats happening to cause it i dont know because im not a scientist or engineer but as far as im concerned if putting the fluid into the loop is the only change i made and then i get these problems thats the fluids fault and i expect something done about it whether its from mayhems or from scan.co.uk where i bought it from in the 1st place.

You don't buy the oil for your car, then not expect anything done about it when it for some reason destroys your oil pump and overheats your engine do you?


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## DeadpoolUK

the pictures of the staining on the helix and res tube dont show very well but its very noticeable in person and the black mark that looks like a reflection at the rear of the helix is also a stain its not just the little black stain on the left.


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## jura11

@DeadpoolUK

If reservoir is stained by red/brown colour then I would think off you didn't cleaned loop properly as white pastel can't leave red/brown stains or gunk,this can has happen only if loop or radiators hasn't been cleaned properly which is normal and can happen

Or block has have growth inside which is normal if you are run only distilled water which offers no protection against biological growth or corrosion

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


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## DeadpoolUK

But again. I've flushed everything. A lot of times and very well. I've spend so many hours flushing the system and so long flushing parts before I assembled it at all that I am sure it was clean. If the distilled water I flushed it with repeatedly didn't move it and the distilled water I had running that I had running in it perfectly for weeks didn't move the gunk to my res why would the pastel suddenly pick it up and take it there to stain things? I could understand if it started to lose its cooling capacity when the distilled was in it because it was building up or something but it wasn't, it cooled just as well the day I removed the water as the day I put it in. And the pastel cooled terribly within just 24-48 hours of being in the system then got even worse. There is something to do with putting that pastel fluid in there that has resulted in my components getting stained and my cpu block not working anymore. If it was the water that was the cause then it would have happened when I was using the water and it would still be happening now I've put distilled water back in but that's not the case.


----------



## hadesfactor

@DeadpoolUK again Im asking what you used in with your distilled water and what you did to flush the system. Believe it or not it matter. Water wont react with things but custom fluid can definitely react if there are contaminants in the loop. Just like Jura said, white pastel cannot stain but it can react. I never just flush with distilled I always use vinegar then distilled at the end and I always test the distilled with a litmus to make sure I got all the acid out. That's why if you read the label on Mayhems or their website it sayd to flush with some like their blitz. That looks more like rust then anything the pastel will not just do that. Even if you read the so called horror stories its all been about color changing etc and certain colors the one thing everyone agrees on is tha the white pastel won't give you any of those issues. We aren't saying that the addition of mayhems didn't cause some reaction because it definitely looked like it did what we are saying is something mustve reacted with it to do that.


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## hadesfactor

No if you put distilled water it wouldn't be happening because there is nothing in there that would react but if you only flushed with distilled water like you say you did that doesnt flush the system. You dont wash your dishes with just water you use soap to clean it same thing in the loop you dont just flush with distilled water you use some sort of agent in my case vinegar, or blitz, there are things you DONT see with distilled water like what your PH is or anything else that could accumulate over the 2 years you ran the loop.


----------



## jura11

Hi there

Assume are you used concentrate or 1L pre mix bottle of Pastel White or did you went with Pastel Extreme White?

I've run on my build Pastel Red for many months and temperatures in my case has been lot better than with current EK CryoFuel Blood Red which I will dump in coming weeks and go back to Mayhems X1 or Pastel

Friend wanted to know my view on the EK CryoFuel Blood Red and after running and testing for about 2-3 weeks I think I will go back to Mayhems Pastel but that's my view

I would check Heatkiller CPU block and radiator and GPU block too if there is not visible growth or corrosion etc

You should be able open the blocks for maintenance or cleaning,if you ask EK or Watercool they should confirm that

I never seen block which cannot be opened

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


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## 414347

I think you are out of luck here, when you get into water cooling even thou you said you didn't have problems before until....well...that could be very well coincident.

Why would white pastel give you color stains, unless there was reaction to something else that might have been in the loop. I don't doubt that you have flashed your system well, but what did you use to flash it, distilled water alone will do nothing at some point and in your case there is so many variables of potential problems cause by so many things

I have honestly never heard anyone get blocks clogged by pastel, maybe aurora yes due to the particles and even then, if your pump speed is OK and your system doesn't sit off for to long, but Pastel









Btw. My system is based on Heatkiller blocks: 3x Black edition for Titan Black, although I have 3 spare brand new in addition to that I also have Heatkiller IV Pro Copper NI,
Opening any of their blocks does not void warranty, I have spoke with Rico (Heatkiller owner) about that in fact they sell O-Rings for their blocks if you desire to clean them.


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## DocShay

https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/pastel-coolants/pastel-pre-mix-1ltr/white-1ltr/
Quote:


> Mayhems Website (On Pastel page)
> 
> *Before Using Mayhems Pastel range*
> *The system must be clean* and have no chemicals of any kind left in the loop. There must be an absence of bleach, biocide and anti-corrosive inhibitors. *We recommend you flush your system with Mayhems Blitz kit before use.* Mayhems Pastel has biocides and inhibitors included within the mixture.


As others have mentioned - Pastel can react with components inside your loop and must be *properly* cleaned before use. Distilled water alone does not cause these reactions - which is why I believe you did not have this issue with only distilled water.
Cleaning/Flushing with distilled water alone will not clean the system to the level it needs to be before use - Which is why things like the Blitz Kit exist. It's a 2 part system cleaner - Part 1 is a strong acid to use solely on your radiator to clean the hell out of the inside of any flux or other contaminants that _may_ react with pastel. Part 2 is a less strong mixture designed for your entire loop to clean out anything that _may_ be present in your blocks/pump that could cause a reaction. The kit also includes PH testing strips to test on the distilled water you flush through your system after using the cleaning kit - To determine if the PH level is within an acceptable level BEFORE putting pastel fluid in.

If people followed the directions of these "exotic" fluids, there would be a lot less heart-ache. Sorry this has been a hard lesson for you.

Edit: One last thing to mention, don't take this as an guarantee, I may be wrong - but I believe i've seen Mick post before that he will refund anyone who is displeased with Mayhems coolants they have ordered before.


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## orbitalwalsh

I have slight dis-colour/top layer of separate liquid in my res Due to MY OWN FAULT- rad was flushed with Blitz stage 1 but Alphacool GPX wasn't along with Reusing Clear tubing that had a Black UV de in before hand which was briefly rinsed off with tape water .

Was only a test loop so wasn't to bothered but as the Post above along with Mayhems office line- get your system cleaned with the blitz kit , and use pure distilled water !

Amazing how much **** is picked up when products were made a packed - pre-cleaned some of my glass and frosted tubing and can see the difference or what gets left in the cleaning solution .


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## hadesfactor

Oh yeah definitely my current build i went with the alphacool nexxxos and i had to flush it 3 times with vinegar/distilled and 3 flushes with distilled just to get it clean and u almost wouldnt see the stuff coming out at the final couple of rinses if u didnt look closely lol. Manufacturing proccessses are dirty in general judt the nature of thr machining proccess its gonna happen but the proccess works my pastel is clean and in my last build i had it running a little over 2 yrs and besides the normal issues with soft tubing im general it wasnt gunked or disgusting.


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## Chiobe

I assume XT-1 Nuke is the best choice, if I think the liquid will run hot? Workstation with 7 GPUs.

Also, the site only list frost protection, so I assume you get 60 Celsius + with the standard 10% mix? If liquid goes above 60C, so will the acrylic start to be effected (based on what sites says in the info tab).


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## Blackops_2

Question i'm about to refill my H220 i have some mayhems X1 can i just dump the fluid in the h220 rinse thoroughly and fill with X1? Or does it need a thorough cleaning?


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## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Question i'm about to refill my H220 i have some mayhems X1 can i just dump the fluid in the h220 rinse thoroughly and fill with X1? Or does it need a thorough cleaning?


Always clean , just got practice


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## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Always clean , just got practice


So hot distilled flushes wont cut it? I need to run blitz?


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## DarthBaggins

I've had no issues w/ distilled flushed w/ a dash of white vinegar, but I also only run XSPC/Swiftech/HWL Rads (used Magicool once and they were very clean surprisingly). But Blitz is a convenient kit in most cases.


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## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So hot distilled flushes wont cut it? I need to run blitz?


You don't NEED blitz but just distilled wont really do anything except run clean water through your parts. like Darth mentioned I use distilled vinegar/hot distilled water to flush my stuff. Some people use like a 1/10 I use for my 1st flush 3/10 then flush a few times with distilled and tend to chk with litmus paper (like $3 at amazon for 500 sheets) just to make sure my final water flush is neutral. Blitz is just more convenient and maybe a little more effective in certain cases. I always use the dumb saying of your never wash your dishes with just water...and also you'll notice some companies have rads that tend to need more flushing then others. My EK rads I bought a few years back were pretty clean, HWLabs are pretty good but some companies are wildly known to have dirty rads i.e Alphacool...but I like their rads lol...and always do a real clean when swapping fluid and take a look at your blocks to see if theres build up in the fins/plates


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## DeadpoolUK

sorry for the delay in replying, 1st chance ive had to get on here, hadesfactor i use a very light mix of vinegar in the rad and blocks to clean them and then run through a lot of distilled water before filling with coolant, i didnt use additives in the distilled water when it was in the loop because i was only going to be using it for such a short time before putting in pastel that it wasnt needed, i havent checked the PH because i dont have litmus paper and nowhere near me sells it, i wont be able to order anything online for about a month because of problems with my bank but when i can ill get some in to check from now on, but i dont know why you think i was running it for 2 years prior to pastel going in, it was closer to 3-5 weeks running distilled before using pastel.

I know theres something reacting to cause the problems, what im trying to get across is that i did everything i have to do as a customer using the product and it still reacted despite me not using anything that they warn you to avoid, had i been told before using it that it will react with things to ruin my components and stop my cpu block working, even when using all the products that are compatible and flushing/cleaning all the the components before putting it in, then i probably wouldnt have used it in the 1st place and just stuck to distilled water with additives for long term use.

also now that the paper has dried with the gunk on it, its actually more black than red/brown, if anything it has an extremely dark blue tint to it but it looks completely black to me now.

@jura11 i used pre-mix 1l bottles of pastel UV White, not concentrate or extreme, and the block actually has a warranty sticker on it that voids warranty when broken, ill happily open it up and check the insides if mayhems will then replace the warranty on it but im not going to lose my warranty to check the insides of it when ive done my part to make sure there wasnt a problem and prevent it but the coolant has still caused faults.

i apologise if i sound like im being snappy or short, im not and id love to figure out what exactly caused this so i can then prevent it from happening again and go back to using the pastel white, i miss how amazing the pc looked for the week it was in there, but unless i can be told 100% whats reacting with it and i can remove that without it costing me for new components then i wont risk ruining any other components or overheating and destroying my whole computer at worst.


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## hadesfactor

@DeadpoolUK The problem is when you dont put additive in your distilled even for a couple of days you get growth. Even just leaving a glass of water for a few days you get growth, might not be able to see it with your eyes yet but it happens. Never mind 3 weeks plus the fact you have the water heated from the loop I would bet my paycheck that there was growth because of it and it affected it. There is a reason why EVERYONE will tell you to add at the VERY least a kill coil but even that has died in favor of at least Nuke or another additive....

No need to apologize about being snippy...not to me at least I get you're upset and we aren't trying to tell you to praise mayhems cause they are the best what we are trying to explain on why or how it happened cause their pastel white is about the least reactive stuff they have as far as pastel go.

I agree I wouldn't put anything in there until your prob is fixed. The fact it was reddish/brown turned to black makes me think its some sort of corrosion from the rads or maybe something gave in your pump. Something went wrong here but I've just never heard of this happening and I actually searched for this same problem last night relating to the same fluid....I am running the same fluid btw just the concentrate not pre-mixed. Also, are you using distilled water or deionised water.. you mentioned it being difficult for you to get certain things this is why I asked. I know in some parts of the world only deionized is the only water you can get. The reason I ask is there is a major difference between the 2. The 1st major is deionized is reactive...it comes close to 7ph but as soon as it is exposed to air it drop to around 5 which is more acidic. Add that to not using an additive and you will get more growth and a more reactive environment.


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## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I've had no issues w/ distilled flushed w/ a dash of white vinegar, but I also only run XSPC/Swiftech/HWL Rads (used Magicool once and they were very clean surprisingly). But Blitz is a convenient kit in most cases.


I mean traditionally i would go with blitz parts 1 & 2 the works. But it's just an AIO going from a swiftech premix to a mayhems premix. Black tubing, nothing else in the loop. I figured a thorough distilled flush and vinegar would do the trick, without having to bring out blitz for one 240mm AIO unit.

It's mom's 1600x ITX build that she wants me to build. So far all intensive purposes the family PC. Don't get me wrong i'd love to try and convince her to spend a little more and let me do a complete loop. I have everything but a res and fittings. Everything else i have from what was originally intended to be my sig.

Here's the specs, i'm actually quite excited. Part of me wants to buy another rad and put the 7970 under water and push the hell out of it. I ran 1125/1575 on air last when i used it. With liquid i think i could do 1200/1700.

1600x
Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming-ITX\
16 GB of GSkill Flare X 3200
Samsung 850 EVO 250gb
WD Black 1TB
Diamond reference 7970
Fractal Design Define S nano
Corsair TX750


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> @DeadpoolUK The problem is when you dont put additive in your distilled even for a couple of days you get growth. Even just leaving a glass of water for a few days you get growth, might not be able to see it with your eyes yet but it happens. Never mind 3 weeks plus the fact you have the water heated from the loop I would bet my paycheck that there was growth because of it and it affected it. There is a reason why EVERYONE will tell you to add at the VERY least a kill coil but even that has died in favor of at least Nuke or another additive....


I was having some issues with Nickel getting eaten away in my loop. The next time I cleaned the loop, I left the silver coil out to see if that had any impact. The only impact I had was the large green bloom I had in my loop 3-4 months later. You need something in there to inhibit growth.

I had plenty of green/black goo to flush out of the loop. I took that opportunity to redo my loop inside a better case.

I've used the Mayhems pastel in the loop (about 8 months). I was replacing a pump for further testing and flushed and redid my fluid. All parts looked good.

I've had growth twice when using distilled with no biocide or silver. With the right light it looked green. Coming out it looked black.

Edit: I use either Blitz 2 or a citic acid solution when cleaning my loop. Each has worked fine for me. There is a thread about cleaning with citric acid around here somewhere.


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## DocShay

Deadpool, it sounds like the black/reddish/brown gunk is flux/residue from a reaction between your radiator and pastel. What radiator are you using?

Also keep in mind Blitz 1 (for use on radiator only) has phosphoric acid in it - Which is why it cleans the hell out of even the dirtiest rads and cannot be used on the full loops. They also provide you with gloves and goggles with the kit. This ain't no white vinegar solution.

It says right on their pastel page they recommend using Blitz Kit prior to using pastel.


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## Mayhem

I have just flown back from Germany after being invited over to Alphacool and Aquatuning and meeting the whole team. I will post some thing after i have had time to make a statement about this whole situation and mess. But just to get some straight and to the point.

Mayhems PASTEL should not be used with Alphacool VPP755 Pump and it HAS caused issues. This IS NOT the pumps fault nor is it the fluids fault but simply put is an incompatibility issue that WE (as in Mayhems) need to work out.

I need to go away and work on some thing more solid and explain what is going to happen. Also Alphacool / Aquatuneing did the right thing by not responding on here and to be pretty upfront about this! a lot of us (including my self) have acted like a pack of wolfs when not all the facts has been put forwards and jumped on the bandwagon. No i have not been brainwashed if any thing i have had my eyes open'd and i was given free reign in the company, i was shown the issues and many other things.

We have all got Alphacool / Aquatuning wrong and i personally do not care if i get trolled for this. I will post more later on as i need to have a good think how to type this all up.


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## orbitalwalsh

@Mayhem

Awesome to see a clear cut view -

If you are able to make a killer fluid for their pump which I believe is the quietest D5 on the market, that would be killer combo - much like getting a kit for EKWB aluminium kit .

Matt and Eddy are sound people, although never got to meet in person









Have the standard version D5 and DDC with pump/Res combo Nd having no issues


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

I'd love to be able to recreate this color:


According to the build page its a custom color provided by Mayhems, whatever that means. Any able to provide me some suggestions to try? I need to produce about 6 liters to fill my system.

Thanks!


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## Mayhem

very rarely now a days we do custom 1 off colours for users for build logs how ever my time table is full up so i cannot do it much longer. How ever the colour is a mix of red and blue dye with pastel.

Mick


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## Krazy Kanuck

Thanks for the reply, I was just looking for some sort of mix ratio I guess. I'll keep trying with the dyes, most of my attempts just don't pop like the pictured color. Perhaps it has a UV element?


----------



## DocShay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> a lot of us (including my self) have acted like a pack of wolfs when not all the facts has been put forwards and jumped on the bandwagon.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have all got Alphacool / Aquatuning wrong and i personally do not care if i get trolled for this. I will post more later on as i need to have a good think how to type this all up.


I'm interested in seeing the reply. I trust your judgement, but for example if I flush/blitz an Alphacool rad and a large amount of flux comes out - And do the same with (for example) a Hardware Labs rad and it's pretty well spotless from the production line - How can we call them "equal" or not call one "sub-par"? Also the fiasco with how they denied warranty claims for using Mayhems products (Despite NOTHING being written on their website currently stating this), or how their latest pump has caused a lot of problems with very little support from them to fix the problem?

I'm not trying to start a witch hunt here - I'm genuinely curious how despite the things I mentioned - We somehow got them wrong. I can understand product incompatibilities, I can understand void warranties if there is a disclaimer - What I can't understand is the total lack of clear communication and poor customer support I have witnessed by them. I look forward to this revelation.


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## orbitalwalsh

I think with Alphacool rads, since they produce the most pc hardware related rads in the world as well as other rads for heavy industry I'm guessing flushing time is cut to get production at full swing . Unlike others they have s large stake or actually own the production factory in China . Must admit my Eisbrecher rad is spotless to their standard rads... I still blitz it though !


----------



## Mayhem

The fiasco of Mayhems and Alphacool and issues with warnings on Alphacool / Aquatuning web site and the usage of Mayhems coolants. There is no fixes in this post and no answers to questions! That will come later.

Here on OCN there has been a raging debate were users have had issues with Alphacool pumps. Alphacool did get a low amount of RMA's and each and every RMA showed that the user was using Mayhems Coolants at the time of the issue. This left Alphacool to surmise that there was a fault with Mayhems coolants. There were other issues as well such as the dismantle of pumps for one reason or another, how ever this is beyond the bounds of this post and the issues between Mayhems and Alphacool.

*What went wrong between Mayhems and Alphacool?*

This is a quite a simple one. No communication. Mayhems did try to contact Alphacool (after the fact) how ever because of the raging debate on OCN and the aggressive nature of the posts Alphacool decided it wasn't in there best interest to carry on communicating with any one involved and this included Mayhems. This was an error on there part and they have admitted to making this mistake. This only compounded the issue and didn't elevate the problem if any thing it escalated it. Obversely this all got out of hand. From Alphacools point of view the debate had turned into a mass hysteria (my words not there's) event which was quickly getting out of control. If Alphacool tried to re enter the affray with the amount of aggressive posts it would have been very difficult to fix any issues found and they would have just been directly targeted. I fully understand this now.

Now on one post I said I would go visit Alphacool / Aquatuning to sort this whole mess out. This wasn't to fix issues but to solve the issues between Mayhems and Alphacool / Aquatuning as it became evident that it was some thing that now needed to be sorted via direct contact. Alphacool and Aquatuning took Mayhems up on this offer and paid for all flights and hotels and invited me directly over so we could solve this problem.

*Aquatuneing Visit.*

On Thursday I landed in Germany and was picked up by Eduard who I had contacted via skype and had previous discussions with which didn't work out very well. I (mick) was welcomed with open arms and we drove for a good few hours in the car chatting about the industry and various other issues. I was firstly shown Aquatuneing's extensive warehouse and working areas which was amazing to see. There work ethics and the way they treat there staff is some thing a lot of companies should go and see as they were exemplary. They have cooking areas for staff to make meals, a child play room for parents kids to play in, adult play areas which football tables, and trampolines and various related rest rooms. They are all so in the middle of expanding the company to accommodate more stock and be more productive. It was a very inspiring visit as Mayhems is nothing like this and it opened my eyes up beyond comprehension. One thing i noticed was all the internal work going on to expand and grow the compnay and this has effected some of the working innards of Aquatuning and why some things have gone wrong which they are in the process of improving (this is my opinion). This all takes time but if you don't under stand this, it makes it harder to see why some issues have arisen such as support and RMA's. I was shown quite a bit and allowed access to many areas of the company and saw some 3d renderings of products in development as well (not some thing I will go into as its not for me to talk about). Once the visit was over we moved to Alphacool.

*Alphacool Visit*

Now once we got to Alphacool once again I was greeted with open arms and I again I was shown around there work place and once again I was amazed at how well organised and open they were. I was invited to see some of there new development products and asked what I thought of them!. They listened intently about what I thought and how I would improve or change some things. Again I was amazed at all of there staff and there work ethics. They are family orientated and each and ever person is valued in such a way they literary are part of the whole Alphacool family and you can see every one is proud of what they have achieved. Then we came to the issue of the Pumps&#8230;..

From what I have been shown so far all there RMA's have come down to what looks like to be issues with our coolants. The RMA's users have sent back to them all seem to have been used with Mayhems fluids (glycerine based fluids). This was a bit of an eye opener and helped me to understand why they took the action on there site's about the possibility of it voiding some of there product lines. Now this is some thing we as Mayhems needs to look into our selfs and we will need to get various pumps from them and test them our self's to confirm every thing and do our due diligence as well. We need to test water on its own and also go though all our products to see what effect it has on there products. Its not a fix but a fault finding mission. This obversely will take time and it time ill have to find. This is not an answer to all the questions people have and is in no way a fix. How ever they have been working on it but with out people sending back the pumps its hard to find a fix. (i cannot say much more on this subject as i have no answers yet).

We then met up for meal and a get together and I was open with them all. When they asked whom was typing on the net I told them straight it was me. They were amazed I didn't try to hide it or blame some one else and that I took full responsibility for my actions. I explained that Mayhems is part of me and how I feel about the industry as a whole. They explained that they felt i was leading some kind of revolt or some kind of personal vendetta which is not what i was after and i could easily see how they thought this.. I explained how I hate the backstabbing, the closed door approach and some of the underhanded dealings and the way some companies like ours are treated and how bigger companies have treated us (i personally felt a lot of companies out there see us as a threat). They explained they feel the same yet dealing with a group of users who are just attacking and not listening is very hard to deal with at times. We all so chatted about how open we have been and how we have been used by other companies yet I still have no regret about it and just called it a hard lesson learnt. A lot of issues were discussed and ive taken these issues back with and will look into how I can help fix some of them.. all though im definably no expert.

*Round up !!!!!*

I could go into depth about a lot of things we talked about how ever i'm not going to. To say the least I have a new found love for the way Aquatuneing and Alphacool are, there work ethics and they way they are working with you the customer. Yes nothing is perfect and it would be nice to see it perfect but when you have a hardcore set of consumers to please! it is not the easiest thing in the world. Mistakes have been made! The aggressive nature of some of our users if a difficult one to deal with at times but we as a community should be more open to listening instead of attacking, I think more could be achieved and better goals could be set in place. The vast array of knowledge with in our hobby is amazing and for us to grow and prosper as a company we need to be more relaxed in the way we deal with consumers and companies alike. If we talk and not attack we can achieve so much more and this will help every one get better products in our hands in the long run.

I think above all some thing i've learnt from this visit is communication is a must.. and some thing we have been lacking in!. Now i need to go away and do what im good at and that is to test the hell out of every thing and see how we can improve our products even more. !!!!!


----------



## Leonko

which coolants of yours contains glycerine?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> which coolants of yours contains glycerine?


All the XT1/Extreme lines, that includes Pastel Extreme, XT1, Extreme Biocide, Extreme Nuke, ect.

EDIT: Sorry had a long day and brainfarted, I got that backwards, X1, Normal Pastel, and Auruoa have Glycerine as mick said below, the rest have Ethylene Glycol.


----------



## Mayhem

Nope incorrect

glycerine is in

X1 and Pastel and aurora.

It is not in any thing else we make.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Nope incorrect
> 
> glycerine is in
> 
> X1 and Pastel and aurora.
> 
> It is not in any thing else we make.


And this problem is just in Alphacool and Aquatuning products, right? If I use other brands, nothing will break when used with Pastel as long as I run it through the Blitz kit?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Nope incorrect
> 
> glycerine is in
> 
> X1 and Pastel and aurora.
> 
> It is not in any thing else we make.


Yep, sorry I got them backwards, had a brain fart lol.

Glycol is in the XT1 and Pastel Extremes ect. I will edit that to make it clear.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> And this problem is just in Alphacool and Aquatuning products, right? If I use other brands, nothing will break when used with Pastel as long as I run it through the Blitz kit?


If you do everything correctly and completely flush the system after Blitzing. The Blitz Kit Acids can cause a chemical reaction with the Pastel fluid and cause a creation of a sand like substance, that may get warranty not honored. It is just the nature of the beasts of the way those things had to be made, not much Mayhems can do about it, its fine, if flushed fully.


----------



## kevindd992002

Ok, thanks.

I have most of the parts for my new and first watercooling build except for the cpu, motherboard, and monitor. While waiting for everything to arrive, what can I do with my other parts to start the ball rolling (so to speak)? Can I already use the Blitz kit part 1 and 2 where they are applicable even without them inatalled in a loop yet?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ok, thanks.
> 
> I have most of the parts for my new and first watercooling build except for the cpu, motherboard, and monitor. While waiting for everything to arrive, what can I do with my other parts to start the ball rolling (so to speak)? Can I already use the Blitz kit part 1 and 2 where they are applicable even without them inatalled in a loop yet?


The first one the chemicals are just sitting inside the radiator. They have to be outside the loop for that. The second part can be installed outside or inside the loop, it doesn't really matter. As long as you have a way to move the fluid through the radiators at a safe pressure.

This is my custom radiator flushing system I built for my radiators. It's a three part process.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I use a fresh step litter bucket for my flush setup lol and just use GE push fit inline filters


----------



## Stickeelion

How I clean my radiators

1) take them out and flush them with water in the tap (using tubing attached to the tap)
2) put 50/50 water vinegar in it and let them sit for 20-30 min and then flush it out with water from the tap
3) repeat #2 a second time
4) hook it up to a bucket of tap water and pump and let it run for about 20 minutes replacing the water in the bucket every 5 minutes or so
5) flush with diatilled water

For the blocks I use q-tips and microfiber cloths with tap water (if you have copper you can use vinegar, don't with nickel)

Also make sure to get a microfiber cloth or qtips into the fittings to clean them out and rinse in distilled water., dye can build up there

Then I put everything back together and run the loop with distilled water for 10 min, drain that do it again (checking for and fixing any leaks at this stage) and then drain it and fill with coolant, run it for 5 minutes and then wait a day before powering up the motherboard just to let any water that may have spilled evaporate

@Mayhems what PH should I make sure the system is before I put in the pastel coolant?

Also another thing I've been wondering about the expiry date of unopened bottles of x1 and pastel coolant the ~3 years with regards to chemical breakdown and degradation of the coolant effectiveness is it likely to be severe/unstable chemicals or minimal/stable when stored for 4 or 5 years? Or is it that 3years just the longest
you have been able to test coolant storage?

Asking because visually they seemed ok when used but I'm not a chemist.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> How I clean my radiators
> 
> 1) take them out and flush them with water in the tap (using tubing attached to the tap)
> 2) put 50/50 water vinegar in it and let them sit for 20-30 min and then flush it out with water from the tap
> 3) repeat #2 a second time
> 4) hook it up to a bucket of tap water and pump and let it run for about 20 minutes replacing the water in the bucket every 5 minutes or so
> 5) flush with diatilled water
> 
> For the blocks I use q-tips and microfiber cloths with tap water (if you have copper you can use vinegar, don't with nickel)
> 
> Also make sure to get a microfiber cloth or qtips into the fittings to clean them out and rinse in distilled water., dye can build up there
> 
> Then I put everything back together and run the loop with distilled water for 10 min, drain that do it again (checking for and fixing any leaks at this stage) and then drain it and fill with coolant, run it for 5 minutes and then wait a day before powering up the motherboard just to let any water that may have spilled evaporate
> 
> @Mayhems what PH should I make sure the system is before I put in the pastel coolant?
> 
> Also another thing I've been wondering about the expiry date of unopened bottles of x1 and pastel coolant the ~3 years with regards to chemical breakdown and degradation of the coolant effectiveness is it likely to be severe/unstable chemicals or minimal/stable when stored for 4 or 5 years? Or is it that 3years just the longest
> you have been able to test coolant storage?
> 
> Asking because visually they seemed ok when used but I'm not a chemist.


Just a small thing about flushing with tap....if you live in a place like I do with extremely hard water I suggest not using tap. In Arizona our water is VERY hard and just by running tap they leave mineral deposits, if you have a inline filter in your home and softener then it isn't as big as an issue but not everyone can use tap water.

Im sure mayhems will have a much better answer on PH but I try to have it as close to neutral on the basic side as I can right around 7.5


----------



## cloppy007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> This is my custom radiator flushing system I built for my radiators. It's a three part process.


What's that blue liquid? Is water+radiator flux?


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cloppy007*
> 
> What's that blue liquid? Is water+radiator flux?


I get that blue as well on my intial flush with vinegar/distilled water.....Im taking my best guess that its from the copper not the flux as flux is generally clearish (think Vaseline) but copper oxidation is greenish blue

Nice set-up btw







I've seen a few others doing that think I might set something up like your flushing system


----------



## Mayhem

Best Ph is between 6.5 to 8 - Perfect is 7.

After flush with either Blitz Basic will bring it to around 7.2 bi carb can be between the limits ive said above.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Best Ph is between 6.5 to 8 - Perfect is 7.
> 
> After flush with either Blitz Basic will bring it to around 7.2 bi carb can be between the limits ive said above.


Cheers, are you able to answer my question about expiry and degradation of stored coolants?


----------



## Mayhem

If you can store the coolants unopened (none breaking of seal), @25c perfect it permanently you may be able to push to 4 years, we have never got past 3 on X1 our self's. Pastel we have tested has no degradation after 6 years of being stored ... And its still going strong to this date. How ever you must shake like mad after 2 years to suspend the nano particles. We have never tested colours this long though just white.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cloppy007*
> 
> What's that blue liquid? Is water+radiator flux?


It was Blitz Part 2.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Just a small thing about flushing with tap....if you live in a place like I do with extremely hard water I suggest not using tap. In Arizona our water is VERY hard and just by running tap they leave mineral deposits, if you have a inline filter in your home and softener then it isn't as big as an issue but not everyone can use tap water.
> 
> Im sure mayhems will have a much better answer on PH but I try to have it as close to neutral on the basic side as I can right around 7.5


I second this, My tap water you can sometimes taste the chemicals they pour in the water. Distilled water is only about dollar or two for gallon. I gave up on shake my radiator a long time ago with only distilled water. I only do whats required for Blitz kit to work & one or two right before installing the rads inside my PC.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I second this, My tap water you can sometimes taste the chemicals they pour in the water. Distilled water is only about dollar or two for gallon. I gave up on shake my radiator a long time ago with only distilled water. I only do whats required for Blitz kit to work & one or two right before installing the rads inside my PC.


Yeah out here its like $1.50 a gal compared to our crappy tap water its a no brainer lol. I Don't go blitz unless I really have a dirty set up but it is a great product.

@Mayhems I've never used blitz in a running system but I have seen plenty of videos where people flush their system with blitz but have seen others post not to run it through your blocks etc....what is the correct answer


----------



## DarthBaggins

Part 1 is not safe for blocks etc, Part 2 is the one that can be run through the entire loop


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Part 1 is not safe for blocks etc, Part 2 is the one that can be run through the entire loop


Thanks







I think ill use that as my flush down the road


----------



## yobigdaddycool

I couldn't find the answer anywhere. Has anyone tried Mayhem Aurora 2 with Ek Supermacy evo with jet plate installed? I am planning to run this setup for 2 months and hoping all goes well. Let me know if you got experience in it


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yobigdaddycool*
> 
> I couldn't find the answer anywhere. Has anyone tried Mayhem Aurora 2 with Ek Supermacy evo with jet plate installed? I am planning to run this setup for 2 months and hoping all goes well. Let me know if you got experience in it


@TheCautiousOne can answer that from personal tests and experience


----------



## emsj86

I have. And it worked fine for a few months. Mind you I had a lot of blocks in my loop with one DDC pump. Really didn't seem to change with or without the jet plate for me


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yobigdaddycool*
> 
> I couldn't find the answer anywhere. Has anyone tried Mayhem Aurora 2 with Ek Supermacy evo with jet plate installed? I am planning to run this setup for 2 months and hoping all goes well. Let me know if you got experience in it
> 
> 
> 
> @TheCautiousOne can answer that from personal tests and experience
Click to expand...

Just working this out from inference have never used aurora myself so take it with a grain of salt, but based on the information that mayhems gives that blocks and reservoirs with low restriction work better and the supremacy block has quite low restriction even with jet plates installed I think you should be ok. might be a bad idea to use the inserts though as they are full of baffles


----------



## KCDC

Hey there everyone. Planning a teardown this weekend, I have some Mayhems pastel white with their clear UV dye flowing through my loop currently. Has been in the loop for about 2 months or so. Is it safe to reuse after the rebuild or do I have to use new fluid? Thanks for any help.


----------



## war4peace

I'd say it's safe to reuse it, however try filtering it first.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Hey there everyone. Planning a teardown this weekend, I have some Mayhems pastel white with their clear UV dye flowing through my loop currently. Has been in the loop for about 2 months or so. Is it safe to reuse after the rebuild or do I have to use new fluid? Thanks for any help.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I'd say it's safe to reuse it, however try filtering it first.


A coffee filter works great for this


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> A coffee filter works great for this


Thanks to both. I have an inline filter I can use on the drain port


----------



## war4peace

I've heard that too.
Kind of related: if I want to get rid of some little things that got stuck into my GPU waterblock, would it help to run the flow the other way while cleaning it? Same question for CPU waterblock, where IN nd OUT are clearly labeled.


----------



## Radmanhs

I'm kinda in a similar situation. I'm about to drain my loop to move and have some coolant that i never touched sitting in a jug. I have fresh concentrate, but I was wondering if I could just add to the coolant in the jug, or dump that and only use the fresh stuff. It's about about 4 months


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I've heard that too.
> Kind of related: if I want to get rid of some little things that got stuck into my GPU waterblock, would it help to run the flow the other way while cleaning it? Same question for CPU waterblock, where IN nd OUT are clearly labeled.


I've never tried back flushing the opposite direction before. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to try. If your blocks are gunked up you'll probably have to take them apart to clean them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I'm kinda in a similar situation. I'm about to drain my loop to move and have some coolant that i never touched sitting in a jug. I have fresh concentrate, but I was wondering if I could just add to the coolant in the jug, or dump that and only use the fresh stuff. It's about about 4 months


If it's only four months old and it's been stored well it should be fine to mix it.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I've never tried back flushing the opposite direction before. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to try. If your blocks are gunked up you'll probably have to take them apart to clean them.


They're not gunked up, they work perfectly, it's just that there were some very small impurities from the radiator which got lodged into a couple channels in my GPU waterblock, since it's the first waterblock in the loop after my radiator. I'd like to get rid of them for aesthetic purpose during the next maintenance / loop expansion session, but taking the GPU waterblock apart is a PITA especially for EVGA GTX 1080 FTW card - there are like 30 screws only to remove the waterblock from the board itself.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yobigdaddycool*
> 
> I couldn't find the answer anywhere. Has anyone tried Mayhem Aurora 2 with Ek Supermacy evo with jet plate installed? I am planning to run this setup for 2 months and hoping all goes well. Let me know if you got experience in it


I've tried with and without the jet plate, couldn't tell a difference in time at all. It seems that the plastic inserts are worse offenders than the jet plate. Best solution i came up with was a system of QDCs that i could use to temporarily reverse the flow of the system to agitate particles. Didn't work as well as i hoped but definitely helped.


----------



## Ascendic

I posted these over in the heatkiller thread but thought I should post them here too. The originals somehow got corrupted on my phone and all I was able to recover were these low quality thumbnails









Mayhems Aurora 2 blue build







Ps I'm looking to do a nice violet pastel in a future build (like the primo chill violet opaque colour). Anyone from mayhems lurking that can tell me how much of each dye with Pastel white to get the same colour?


----------



## Ascendic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yobigdaddycool*
> 
> I couldn't find the answer anywhere. Has anyone tried Mayhem Aurora 2 with Ek Supermacy evo with jet plate installed? I am planning to run this setup for 2 months and hoping all goes well. Let me know if you got experience in it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> I've tried with and without the jet plate, couldn't tell a difference in time at all. It seems that the plastic inserts are worse offenders than the jet plate. Best solution i came up with was a system of QDCs that i could use to temporarily reverse the flow of the system to agitate particles. Didn't work as well as i hoped but definitely helped.


I had an older ek supremacy block in my build above for LGA1155 and after pulling apart the blocks to clean and replace with different fluid I found the jet plate completely clogged from Aurora 2.

I'll be switching to pastel, I read all the warnings and knew there was no guarantee the aurora would work but it is just so damn sexy I had to try it. I await with great anticipation the day a long term aurora is developed without these issues. Best looking fluid on the market period.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascendic*
> 
> I had an older ek block in my build above I don't recall the model but was for LGA1155 and after pulling apart the blocks to clean and replace with different fluid I found the jet plate completely clogged from Aurora 2.
> 
> I'll be switching to pastel, I read all the warnings and knew there was no guarantee the aurora would work but it is just so damn sexy I had to try it. I await with great anticipation the day a long term aurora is developed without these issues. Best looking fluid on the market period.


I completely agree (hence the avatar lol). Very soon after I got into watercooling I became slightly obsessed with Aurora and have probably run it in 4-5 different systems with varying levels of success. Basic loops failing in a week and a large complex loop lasting 4 months. I think I'll run some other fluids for a few months and then see how it goes again


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Where's the best place to get Mayhems coolant nowadays? I've been running the same XT-1 Red coolant since 2013 and have realized I'm going to have to do a full loop tear down and rebuild with new coolant. Thanks.


----------



## Mayhem

We have a new way of making aurora work how ever i need access to some equipment at CPI to try some atom replacing. If we can crack it i think we can make a permanent Aurora with larger flecks. How ever CPI are dragging there heals atm on another project were working with them on.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have a new way of making aurora work how ever i need access to some equipment at CPI to try some atom replacing. If we can crack it i think we can make a permanent Aurora with larger flecks. How ever CPI are dragging there heals atm on another project were working with them on.


Baby blue Aurora please! Would love to Run it on mine- even for the test shoot- just the blue or silver version but would mean taking apart the CPU and GPX block then putting it all back together







not your fault or alphas as the GPX is so restrictive yet does the job.

did you get to see the Corsair products (Heatkiller) on your tour? would be good to see how Corsair will handle fluids that aren't their own - and im guessing they'll do their own to match Thermaltake


----------



## Rainmaker91

Hi guys, looking around for some new fluid additives for my loop upgrade. I have had some issues with corrosion in my current set-up, and want something that prohibits this and algae growth in my updated loop. I have been looking at the Nanoxia Coolforce CF1 Base Corrosion Blocker, and EKWB Cryofuel Concentrate, though I am mostly considering one of Mayhems products. Which one would be best for mixing with de-mineralized water? Would the ethylene glycol affect the acrylic in my loop?

I'd appreciate some input on this from you guys since I assume you use Mayhems fluids here in the Mayhems user club









The materials in my loop: Paint (acrylic based paint), Copper, brass, nickel, silver (supposedly the Monsoon fittings are silver plated) and of-course Acrylic reservoir and faceplate on my GPU block.


----------



## Mayhem

Alphacool / Aquatuneing have sent over enough pumps to us for testing. Now the hard work begins.


----------



## Craigk19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool / Aquatuneing have sent over enough pumps to us for testing. Now the hard work begins.


And here i am saving up for 1 haha!!


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool / Aquatuneing have sent over enough pumps to us for testing. Now the hard work begins.


Did they ship the Eisbecher res to you ? not sure if their Bubble breaker design will effect in anyway ?

Guessing this would be more directed to Aurora then pastel fluids


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Hi guys, looking around for some new fluid additives for my loop upgrade. I have had some issues with corrosion in my current set-up, and want something that prohibits this and algae growth in my updated loop. I have been looking at the Nanoxia Coolforce CF1 Base Corrosion Blocker, and EKWB Cryofuel Concentrate, though I am mostly considering one of Mayhems products. Which one would be best for mixing with de-mineralized water? Would the ethylene glycol affect the acrylic in my loop?
> 
> I'd appreciate some input on this from you guys since I assume you use Mayhems fluids here in the Mayhems user club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The materials in my loop: Paint (acrylic based paint), Copper, brass, nickel, silver (supposedly the Monsoon fittings are silver plated) and of-course Acrylic reservoir and faceplate on my GPU block.


What components are you getting the corrosion on and which areas? could be galvanic corrosion from direct contact between dissimilar metals where you'll just see corrosion where the metals are touching, or it may be galvanic via the coolant.

Nickel and copper together shouldnt be an issue, they have a slight anodic difference but its very small so corrosion will be minimal enough to never cause problems for most people. Silver has a slightly higher anodic index so corrosion may be more likely, its not that common but it can cause the corrosion. Personally I would avoid using silver just to be on the sure side. nickel brass and copper should be fine, no idea what paint is doing on the inside of your loop though

I always prefer to use distilled water over demineralised, has more impurities removed including algae, salts and heavy metals, also not to mention it is suggested to use distilled water with mayhems coolants, others report no issues but distilled would be what mayhems have tested it with and can ensure it will work best.

mayhems coolants don't have a problem with acrylic, there was a table posted a while ago about different tubes PETG/Acrylic/soft tubing and which manufacturers ones were good or not, XT-1 coolant is the one with ethylene glycol, I forgot what the others were based on, ethylene glycol looks to be fine on acrylic


every single one of their coolants premix or concetrate coolants have everything you need, biocides, corrosion inhibitors just add distilled water, not sure about aurora but that's just for show. If you follow instructions and make sure Ph is neutral it is very unlikely you'll have an issue.

I've only ever used mayhems and never had anything more than very small spots of slight tarnishing on the nickel blocks. this is just anecdotal though, this is what i had after 5 years of no cleaning:

not fully clean, only wiped it with a damp qtip


yeah I was lazy and never got around to redoing my loop when I should have but it makes me just all the more impressed with their coolants. I can't make any personal comparisons with any other coolants as I haven't used anything else sorry.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> What components are you getting the corrosion on and which areas? could be galvanic corrosion from direct contact between dissimilar metals where you'll just see corrosion where the metals are touching, or it may be galvanic via the coolant.
> 
> Nickel and copper together shouldnt be an issue, they have a slight anodic difference but its very small so corrosion will be minimal enough to never cause problems for most people. Silver has a slightly higher anodic index so corrosion may be more likely, its not that common but it can cause the corrosion. Personally I would avoid using silver just to be on the sure side.
> 
> I always prefer to use distilled water over demineralised, has more impurities removed including algae, salts and heavy metals, also not to mention it is suggested to use distilled water with mayhems coolants, others report no issues but distilled would be what mayhems have tested it with and can ensure it will work best.
> 
> mayhems coolants don't have a problem with acrylic, there was a table posted a while ago about different tubes PETG/Acrylic/soft tubing and which manufacturers ones were good or not, XT-1 coolant is the one with ethylene glycol, I forgot what the others were based on
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> every single one of their coolants premix or concetrate coolants have everything you need, biocides, corrosion inhibitors just add distilled water, not sure about aurora but that's just for show. If you follow instructions and make sure Ph is neutral it is very unlikely you'll have an issue.
> 
> I've only ever used mayhems and never had anything more than very small spots of slight tarnishing on the nickel blocks. this is just anecdotal though, this is what i had after 5 years of no cleaning:
> 
> not fully clean, only wiped it with a damp qtip
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah I was lazy and never got around to redoing my loop when I should have but it makes me just all the more impressed with their coolants. I can't make any personal comparisons with any other coolants as I haven't used anything else sorry.


I'm swapping out my blocks with all copper ones, but it's in the current nickel/copper blocks that I have had corrosion so far (as well as inside the nickel plated fittings). The silver fittings are not yet in use, but since I'm switching to copper pipes instead of soft tubing I was recommended the Monsoon EV2 fittings which supposedly has silver plating (though I'm hoping it's nickel to be honest). They are already bought and I will be using them so I'll just have to take every measure to stop any issues from that. That particular coolants I'm looking at would be the XT-1 and the XT-1 nuke, as I do want the protection to be as good as possible, the reason it's combined with de-mineralized water instead of distilled is simply availability and price. I can always order concentrates from out of country, but having massive amounts of distilled water shipped is out of the question (same reason why I'm not doing premixed) sourcing distilled water locally is also quite difficult as de-mineralized "battery water" is good enough for most applications.

As for what corrosion I have in my current loop (currently disassembled for maintenance and upgrades), here is a few pictures of the blocks:


Spoiler: Images:





And this is what I used in the loop:





So I just want to be sure to get something that works well this time, rather than relying on some stuff that I haven't really seen a lot of people use.


----------



## Stickeelion

EK had a year or so where thier nickel plating was really subpar and would corrode, forgot to mention it could be that? it was around 2011 they had the issues http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info and seemed to have been resolved by 2013

is that bare copper in between the fins? I cant tell, the flat section of the base is fine, thats just tarnish, around the edge where the oring was is possibly corrosion, id wipe as much off and then use some mild polish like Autosol or MAAS with a microfiber cloth to see if it will clean off, I had a bunch of gunk on my drain port that looked like corrosion but polished off well. I would give that a try before getting all new blocks.

Its probably not a good idea to mix mayhems coolants except for dyes. probably best to use either XT-1 or XT-1 nuke not both. Mayhems himself will know much more about this than I do. I don't think there is any benefit for XT-1 over X1 except for use in subzero cooling systems.

I see your in Norway, that's unfortunate about distilled, its not exactly easy to get it where I am either, but a few places stocked it. Mayhems is based in UK and sell distilled water so I don't think it will be much of an issue shipping a bottle of water from UK to Norway as its not far.

Performance PC's states those monsoon fittings are indeed silver plated.

Also I hope you didn't run sys prep in your system long term, its a cleaner for flushing your system which you drain out before putting coolant in. I personally never use these cleaning chemicals, I just use water for nickel, (sometimes polish) and 50/50 vinegar/water for copper components (dont use vinegar on nickel) and then flush with copious amounts of tap water and then finally flush at least 3x with distilled water.

edit: to clarify that cleaning is done wile the loop is disassembled, once all that is done, I assemble it and run distilled water in it for about an hour then drain and put my coolant in.


----------



## war4peace

You should be able to find distilled water at any gas station, pretty much all cars have a use for it.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> EK had a year or so where thier nickel plating was really subpar and would corrode, forgot to mention it could be that? it was around 2011 they had the issues http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info and seemed to have been resolved by 2013
> 
> is that bare copper in between the fins? I cant tell, the flat section of the base is fine, thats just tarnish, around the edge where the oring was is possibly corrosion, id wipe as much off and then use some mild polish like Autosol or MAAS with a microfiber cloth to see if it will clean off, I had a bunch of gunk on my drain port that looked like corrosion but polished off well. I would give that a try before getting all new blocks.
> 
> Its probably not a good idea to mix mayhems coolants except for dyes. probably best to use either XT-1 or XT-1 nuke not both. Mayhems himself will know much more about this than I do. I don't think there is any benefit for XT-1 over X1 except for use in subzero cooling systems.
> 
> I see your in Norway, that's unfortunate about distilled, its not exactly easy to get it where I am either, but a few places stocked it. Mayhems is based in UK and sell distilled water so I don't think it will be much of an issue shipping a bottle of water from UK to Norway as its not far.
> 
> Performance PC's states those monsoon fittings are indeed silver plated.
> 
> Also I hope you didn't run sys prep in your system long term, its a cleaner for flushing your system which you drain out before putting coolant in. I personally never use these cleaning chemicals, I just use water for nickel, (sometimes polish) and 50/50 vinegar/water for copper components (dont use vinegar on nickel) and then flush with copious amounts of tap water and then finally flush at least 3x with distilled water.
> 
> edit: to clarify that cleaning is done wile the loop is disassembled, once all that is done, I assemble it and run distilled water in it for about an hour then drain and put my coolant in.


I didn't plan on mixing them, but was considering the one or the other. I have also looked at X1, but I'm unsure which one performs best. As for getting new blocks, I'm swapping them out for aesthetic reasons anyway, but I'll clean off the EK ones before selling them or using them in another build. The nickel plating is indeed chipping off, and considering I bought the CPU block used it may very well be from the plating issue as it is a non Evo Supremacy. Still there was some corrosion in the GPU block as well, with some actual rust marks on the jet-plate (stainless not holding so well it seems). As for how I originally cleaned my loop. The radiators were cleaned with hot tap water running though them, then I used a mix of tap water and vinegar and let it stay in the rads for a bit before cleaning them out with tap water and subsequently using de-mineralized water to clean out any residual fluid/deposits. When the loop was assembled, I ran sysprep (came with my Advanced LRT tubing) for about 24 hours while leak testing. I then drained that and filled it with pure de-mineralized water and the additive that I posted a picture of. In hindsight I should have probably flushed the system a second time after using sysprep, but there is nothing to do about that now. Later on I drained the system again (after about 6 months of use) when I was switching to Ryzen, this is when I first saw the corrosion in the CPU block, but I rinsed it off and assembled it again. Then a week or so ago I dissasemble it all again and moved they hardware over in another case while I'm modifying my main one, this is when I took the pictures that I posted here.

The block may be an issue, but considering the effects on the fittings and the jet-plate I assume there was a severe ph imbalance in the loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> You should be able to find distilled water at any gas station, pretty much all cars have a use for it.


Mostly cars use de-mineralized water, and not distilled. This is how I can easily get de-mineralized, but distilled water is more difficult to source (at least at a decent price). It should be perfectly fine though, but the fluid isn't as pure as with distilled.


----------



## war4peace

That's weird, here in Romania all I find in gas stations is distilled water (not demineralized, the label is clear). It's about 1.5 EUR for 2L.
I assumed it would be the same in Norway, apparently I'm mistaken, sorry about that.


----------



## RX7-2nr

You could make distilled water pretty easily. A pot with a snug fitting lid, drill a half inch hole in the lid, attach a coil of half inch tubing and suspend it above the pot. Run the other end of the tubing into a collection pot. Boil water in the large pot and retrieve distilled water from the other.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> That's weird, here in Romania all I find in gas stations is distilled water (not demineralized, the label is clear). It's about 1.5 EUR for 2L.
> I assumed it would be the same in Norway, apparently I'm mistaken, sorry about that.


Depends on the usage area, as we need other additives for cars due to the cold here (in the northern most parts we get -50*c sometimes which means we can't exactly joke around with what is used, same reason diesel is "watered" out with kerosene in the winter). So it could be that the base fluid doesn't need to be as pure.


----------



## Stickeelion

its not always that easy, the water for car batteries can be distilled or demineralised, most mechanic workshops have demineralised. Deionised is extremely common in australia as well, at every grocery store, however distilled was quite hard to source. It differs in each country, such as I hear deionised is hard to get in canada but distilled is everywhere there


----------



## hadesfactor

There are other reason why not to use de-mineralized/deionized water...one major reason is the demineralization/deionization process doe not remove organic particles that are no charged but distillation does this (also other purification methods) as well as water that is just labeled as deionized (although used interchangeably tech isn't the same) also becomes reactive when exposed to air dropping the PH from neutral to acidic.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have a new way of making aurora work how ever i need access to some equipment at CPI to try some atom replacing. If we can crack it i think we can make a permanent Aurora with larger flecks. How ever CPI are dragging there heals atm on another project were working with them on.


whaaa? That's really amazing to hear! Ill watercool everything I own if aurora actually becomes a viable long term coolant


----------



## cloppy007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I didn't plan on mixing them, but was considering the one or the other. I have also looked at X1, but I'm unsure which one performs best. As for getting new blocks, I'm swapping them out for aesthetic reasons anyway, but I'll clean off the EK ones before selling them or using them in another build. The nickel plating is indeed chipping off, and considering I bought the CPU block used it may very well be from the plating issue as it is a non Evo Supremacy. Still there was some corrosion in the GPU block as well, with some actual rust marks on the jet-plate (stainless not holding so well it seems). As for how I originally cleaned my loop. The radiators were cleaned with hot tap water running though them, then I used a mix of tap water and vinegar and let it stay in the rads for a bit before cleaning them out with tap water and subsequently using de-mineralized water to clean out any residual fluid/deposits. When the loop was assembled, I ran sysprep (came with my Advanced LRT tubing) for about 24 hours while leak testing. I then drained that and filled it with pure de-mineralized water and the additive that I posted a picture of. In hindsight I should have probably flushed the system a second time after using sysprep, but there is nothing to do about that now. Later on I drained the system again (after about 6 months of use) when I was switching to Ryzen, this is when I first saw the corrosion in the CPU block, but I rinsed it off and assembled it again. Then a week or so ago I dissasemble it all again and moved they hardware over in another case while I'm modifying my main one, this is when I took the pictures that I posted here.
> 
> The block may be an issue, but considering the effects on the fittings and the jet-plate I assume there was a severe ph imbalance in the loop.
> Mostly cars use de-mineralized water, and not distilled. This is how I can easily get de-mineralized, but distilled water is more difficult to source (at least at a decent price). It should be perfectly fine though, but the fluid isn't as pure as with distilled.


Regarding Monsoon silver plated fittings, I can confirm they are silver, and that's the reason I replaced EK nickel plugs (reservoir) by their acrylic counterparts. The rest of my loop is copper, brass and steel (pump).

As for the non-evo block, those are already using the EN plating. In fact, I think the former EK flagship block was already plated using that process (at least after the controversy) and they advertised it with this label.


I don't know what might have caused that corrosion. You've used PHN instead of PT Nuke (which would have been a problem) and there's no silver (yet) in your loop.

For your information, I'm running copper blocks (EK Supremacy and EK Supreme VGA HF), copper rads (Alphacool XT45s), normal monsoon fittings and silver plated monsoon fittings. No corrosion so far with Mayhems X1 and EK eKoolant EVO (which might have been manufactured by Mayhems). I did had issues with a bad EK fluid a couple of years ago, some growth but no corrosion.


----------



## Blackops_2

So PPCs is out of or only has 1 foot of LRT advanced left. I want to use my Glacer 240L and 7970 block and put the 1600x system of my families on water. Just so it isn't so damn loud. Will any clear tubing work for X1? If you couldn't get LRT what would be your second choice?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mayhems' tubing and EK's work great. Personally a big fan of EK's ZMT (I keep stocking up on it in case EK decides to do away with it)

Can't wait to get back to GA so I can change my fluid from EK's EVO Coolant to Pastel Extreme or XT1 Nuke (debating on investing in a chiller for my [email protected] rig)


----------



## jura11

Hi there

As above Mayhems clear tubing or UV White works with EK fittings or Barrow etc,few days back I've build for friend custom water loop and have used Barrow fittings and EK fittings as well and Mayhems UV White tubing

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So PPCs is out of or only has 1 foot of LRT advanced left. I want to use my Glacer 240L and 7970 block and put the 1600x system of my families on water. Just so it isn't so damn loud. Will any clear tubing work for X1? If you couldn't get LRT what would be your second choice?


As the other two mentioned, EKWB ZMT and Mayhems Ultra clear tubing will be great choices. Honestly, I wouldn't want to touch Advanced LRT again after all the plasticiser issues that it has (I read about them but still decided to buy some, and to no surprise at all it turned "foggy" after about 1 year of usage). I'd add Tygon Norprene to that list as well, though you only get ZMT and Norprene with "thick" walls, meaning if you have anything like 10mm/13mm (3/8"/1/2") compression fittings then you can't use them. ZMT and Norprene are likely the best choices for flexible tubing as long as you don't mind the flat black look.

I'm going for Mayhems Ultraclear for the part of my loop that uses soft tubing, but that is only because I don't really want to buy all new fittings for something that is going to stay hidden (I already have a lot of 10mm/13mm fittings).


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Mayhems' tubing and EK's work great. Personally a big fan of EK's ZMT (I keep stocking up on it in case EK decides to do away with it)
> 
> Can't wait to get back to GA so I can change my fluid from EK's EVO Coolant to Pastel Extreme or XT1 Nuke (debating on investing in a chiller for my [email protected] rig)


I didn't even think of Mayhems own tubing. Facepalming right now..Thanks Darth.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> As the other two mentioned, EKWB ZMT and Mayhems Ultra clear tubing will be great choices. Honestly, I wouldn't want to touch Advanced LRT again after all the plasticiser issues that it has (I read about them but still decided to buy some, and to no surprise at all it turned "foggy" after about 1 year of usage). I'd add Tygon Norprene to that list as well, though you only get ZMT and Norprene with "thick" walls, meaning if you have anything like 10mm/13mm (3/8"/1/2") compression fittings then you can't use them. ZMT and Norprene are likely the best choices for flexible tubing as long as you don't mind the flat black look.
> 
> I'm going for Mayhems Ultraclear for the part of my loop that uses soft tubing, but that is only because I don't really want to buy all new fittings for something that is going to stay hidden (I already have a lot of 10mm/13mm fittings).


I might have gotten lucky with Advanced LRT, ran X1 blood red for almost 2 years with no maintenance and had no issues. Used the same batch for my sig rig right now since march and haven't had any issues. So i was looking to go LRT again. Had forgotten Mayhems started making tubing. Which will be my go to for soft tubing builds. This is basically just a quick fix to the blower on my 7970. I have the parts, so might as well put it in the loop and run it to 1200/1700. It's still actually quite viable at 1080p, right there with a 1050Ti depending on the game. With the OC even more so.

My personal builds from here on out will be PETG or Acrylic though. Had planned on a SLi/CFX Define S build but now that SLI/CFX is sort of fading to the wayside i think i'm going Mini-ITX myself from here on. Grab another Define S Nano, an X370 board, decent GPU, an 1600x, and put it under.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I might have gotten lucky with Advanced LRT, ran X1 blood red for almost 2 years with no maintenance and had no issues. Used the same batch for my sig rig right now since march and haven't had any issues. So i was looking to go LRT again. Had forgotten Mayhems started making tubing. Which will be my go to for soft tubing builds. This is basically just a quick fix to the blower on my 7970. I have the parts, so might as well put it in the loop and run it to 1200/1700. It's still actually quite viable at 1080p, right there with a 1050Ti depending on the game. With the OC even more so.


Yeah the 7970 is still a beastly card, I find it's actually closer to the GTX1060 3gb/RX 570 4gb than the GTX 1050ti when overclocked. Though my 7950 obviously performs a bit shy of the full fledged Tahiti die card it's still surprisingly viable for 1080 gaming (still hitting high settings in a lot of games).


----------



## mixsetup

Hi there I have PETG tubing in my loop. Now I didn't know until I had bought it that its not compatible but I have some Mayhems XT-1 Red. How much damage will it cause to the PETG tubing if I used it?


----------



## Mayhem

*Warning.*

X1 Concentrate 250ml

There is a printing mistake on the X1 concentrate 250ml bottle. It says 250ml to 750ml water this is incorrect. It is 125ml to 875ml of water. 1 x 250ml bottle concentrate will make 2 ltrs. This is now being corrected but will take a while to filter though the Distro chain.

Sorry .... My Mess up for not QCing the labels correctly.


----------



## war4peace

What is the negative effect in case of double concentration?


----------



## Mayhem

none relay you will lose about 1c in thermal pick up but gain in length of time it can be used and how long it will last in a system also it will be able to go down to -c temps.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> none relay you will lose about 1c in thermal pick up but gain in length of time it can be used and how long it will last in a system also it will be able to go down to -c temps.


Nothing wrong with the Pastel labels, right?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Nothing wrong with the Pastel labels, right?


Just use Mayhems website, It usually has the most up to date directions. If I recall there is nothing wrong with the labels for Pastel.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Just use Mayhems website, It usually has the most up to date directions. If I recall there is nothing wrong with the labels for Pastel.


Yup. I was not worried about the instructions. I was simply asking if the Pastel labels weren't affectes by the same error that was just announced.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Yeah the 7970 is still a beastly card, I find it's actually closer to the GTX1060 3gb/RX 570 4gb than the GTX 1050ti when overclocked. Though my 7950 obviously performs a bit shy of the full fledged Tahiti die card it's still surprisingly viable for 1080 gaming (still hitting high settings in a lot of games).


I'm excited to see how it handles some newer games with the clocks i'm hoping to push. Thought i was going to run the 1600x and 7970 on one 240mm but just couldn't do that. Added a GTS Nemesis 240mm for the front. Should give me some overhead for both the CPU and GPU.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> none relay you will lose about 1c in thermal pick up but gain in length of time it can be used and how long it will last in a system also it will be able to go down to -c temps.
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing wrong with the Pastel labels, right?
Click to expand...

Pastel are fine just last batch of labels i messed up on the X1 square bottles and some older round bottles. It only came to my attention today.









The newest bottles look like this how ever they are only just rolling out ->



This is only the concentrate range though.


----------



## Blackops_2

Anyone one have any pics of X1 UV purple both under the light and out? Been searching google but not having any luck.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> none relay you will lose about 1c in thermal pick up but gain in length of time it can be used and how long it will last in a system also it will be able to go down to -c temps.


damn I swear these coolants are just sounding better, can deal fine with wrong concentrations and everything.


----------



## Rainmaker91

The store I'm ordering parts from only has XT-1 Nuke in larger bottles, is there anything wrong in running this in a regular open loop? I know I might as well just buy X1, but the XT-1 Nuke is cheaper due to me being able to buy bigger bottles.

Any parts that I shouldn't introduce in the loop other than the obvious PETG hard line and Primochill Advanced LRT?

Edit: ended up ordering from another store, and I'll just order the fluid directly from Mayhems or a local store. Still though, are there any negative effects of using XT1 or XT1-Nuke over the regular X1? I only have acrylic in my loop to be concerned about, but I'm still curious


----------



## Wally West

Hey, I'm trying to do an Aurora Purple like this (except a little bit darker). Can the Mayhem Purple and Pink UV reproduce this? If not, what do you recommend?


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Anyone one have any pics of X1 UV purple both under the light and out? Been searching google but not having any luck.


Here is a few pics of mine without UV light, I had picked up an incandescent black light but the results were very poor, hoping my UV LEDs provide better results. I mixed one bottle per liter.



There are also these pics from this thread.


----------



## mixsetup

Asked this before but what damage would the Mayhems XT-1 do to PETG tubing?

I ask as I have a bottle here as I bought it before I saw the compatibility list.
i also have Aurora but just cleaned that out of the loop so didn't want to use it.

So I have demineralized water in it at the moment only been in for a day and I would like to know if I should not use the Mayhems XT-1 which then I would just use Mayhems Biocide I have with the water or if it will be okay for a while.

Thanks


----------



## skygunner58203

So I have a system filled with mayhems pastel orange. When I drained the system, I noticed all of the plastic and acrylic were stained orange. I never see this on other builds so I'm wondering if this is a common occurrence?


----------



## Mayhem

What plastic ... e.g PETG tubing will stain over time.


----------



## AT-Eduard

You will have that issue with every kind of colored water after a certain time, that is normal. Tubes faster than PETG and PETG faster than Acryl. Only glass or brass tubes will not have any isues like that.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*


Just wondering - another idea that I wouldn't be able to use - but would you be making different coloured Aurora Boosters?

Just thinking, using X1 Clear with different coloured Flakes could mean that I'd have Rainbow dash Running through a loop



RGB meets watercooling - I ask this as I've dropped some skittles in my cup of water at work and started to swirl it around thinking they could of been Aurora flakes....

water glitter...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








***
forgot to add, will you be testing with Alphacools Eisbaer AIO units? or has then been fine with the Pastel liquids? seen a few using them


----------



## mixsetup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> What plastic ... e.g PETG tubing will stain over time.


Great I will use the XT-1 and just replace my tubes with acrylic next time I change it.
Thanks


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering - another idea that I wouldn't be able to use - but would you be making different coloured Aurora Boosters?
> 
> Just thinking, using X1 Clear with different coloured Flakes could mean that I'd have Rainbow dash Running through a loop
> 
> 
> 
> RGB meets watercooling - I ask this as I've dropped some skittles in my cup of water at work and started to swirl it around thinking they could of been Aurora flakes....
> 
> water glitter...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ***
> 
> forgot to add, will you be testing with Alphacools Eisbaer AIO units? or has then been fine with the Pastel liquids? seen a few using them
Click to expand...

Yes it is some thing we have done in the past how ever sales wise it wasnt a worth while investment. but we could look at a rainbow effect aurora coolant.

Ref AIO and aurora or pastel , this is some thing we have not tested as of yet.


----------



## mixsetup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Just wondering - another idea that I wouldn't be able to use - but would you be making different coloured Aurora Boosters?
> 
> Just thinking, using X1 Clear with different coloured Flakes could mean that I'd have Rainbow dash Running through a loop
> 
> 
> 
> RGB meets watercooling - I ask this as I've dropped some skittles in my cup of water at work and started to swirl it around thinking they could of been Aurora flakes....
> 
> water glitter...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ***
> forgot to add, will you be testing with Alphacools Eisbaer AIO units? or has then been fine with the Pastel liquids? seen a few using them


Ha that's something my daughter would be in to. A My little pony water coolant. LOL


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes it is some thing we have done in the past how ever sales wise it wasnt a worth while investment. but we could look at a rainbow effect aurora coolant.
> 
> Ref AIO and aurora or pastel , this is some thing we have not tested as of yet.


slap a limited edition on it


----------



## wizardbro

I've been using my x1 clear for 8 months. Should I change the water now?


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Hey, I'm trying to do an Aurora Purple like this (except a little bit darker). Can the Mayhem Purple and Pink reproduce this? If not, what do you recommend?


Anyone?


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Anyone?


This actually looks like colored tubing and white pastel by looking at where the compression fittings are. I could be wrong and it could just be the way the pic looks to me.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Anyone?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> This actually looks like colored tubing and white pastel by looking at where the compression fittings are. I could be wrong and it could just be the way the pic looks to me.


I also see some UV/purple lighting going on if you look closer that's probably giving it that "pop"


----------



## Wally West

So, how can I achieve a magenta color? (like the color in the middle)


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> So, how can I achieve a magenta color? (like the color in the middle)


The best way is to experiment in small batches. Red+Blue=Magenta (light purpleish) so maybe be heavier on the blue or if they have a magenta dye add blue to that.....Im not an expert in mixing colors but if you google mixing colors or even mixing mayhems dye you might come up with something. Just be sure to use the pastel white as your base as thats what you are looking to do.


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> The best way is to experiment in small batches. Red+Blue=Magenta (light purpleish) so maybe be heavier on the blue or if they have a magenta dye add blue to that.....Im not an expert in mixing colors but if you google mixing colors or even mixing mayhems dye you might come up with something. Just be sure to use the pastel white as your base as thats what you are looking to do.


Thanks, I'll use the Aurora silver as base color.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> The best way is to experiment in small batches. Red+Blue=Magenta (light purpleish) so maybe be heavier on the blue or if they have a magenta dye add blue to that.....Im not an expert in mixing colors but if you google mixing colors or even mixing mayhems dye you might come up with something. Just be sure to use the pastel white as your base as thats what you are looking to do.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'll use the Aurora silver as base color.
Click to expand...

the lighter the base colour the easier it is to work with, you can make the colours darker easier but not lighter

white pastel + red+blue dyes + aurora booster

Mayhems already has some certain colours that are not prime colours, like purple and UV pink, and often times you can get the same results but using these different dyes in other combinations you would likely want some UV pink in there to make it pop somewhat like that pic.

Also keep in mind people sometimes edit thier pics to make them look good, or even change the hue in photoshop

before having to ask (especially for relitavely simple colours) how to make a colour try looking up paint or food dye mixing guides, they are vastly similar, they are especially handy for basic colours, though the can at times be a bit misleading when trying to make specific colours from a fair amount of dyes. Obviously testing and experience will be the best way to learn, there are possibly even colours the mayhems Reps haven't made


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Also keep in mind people sometimes edit thier pics to make them look good, or even change the hue in photoshop


Some much truth in one line of text


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Some nice EK + Mayhems action going on in this photo:



-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Some nice EK + Mayhems action going on in this photo:
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


I'm guessing the PSU being on front side of the chassis in display like that is intentional? I get it, it would just drive me insane lol


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Some nice EK + Mayhems action going on in this photo:
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


how are temps for the motherboard? probably get barely any airflow when its stuffed full like that.

EDIT: though its kind of a cool look


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> how are temps for the motherboard? probably get barely any airflow when its stuffed full like that.
> 
> EDIT: though its kind of a cool look


The fan of the PSU is placed directly over the IO part of the motherboard so that should actually get a fair amount of air flow, I have no idea about the rest of it though.


----------



## Revan654

For those who use UV lighting in there builds with UV Coolant. How dark does the room have to be for UV to be effective? I just got new lighting in my room (it's a bit bright, 40W x 4 LED)


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> For those who use UV lighting in there builds with UV Coolant. How dark does the room have to be for UV to be effective? I just got new lighting in my room (it's a bit bright, 40W x 4 LED)


Depends on the wave length of the leds but UV Laser green will stand out the most, UV clear blue, UV blue is very much a light colour and UV pink just is mental. How ever some Leds give off more purple than UV light hence why we say cold cathodes are better.


----------



## silent54

My current build with Mayhem's Pastel Blue and White.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> For those who use UV lighting in there builds with UV Coolant. How dark does the room have to be for UV to be effective? I just got new lighting in my room (it's a bit bright, 40W x 4 LED)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Depends on the wave length of the leds but UV Laser green will stand out the most, UV clear blue, UV blue is very much a light colour and UV pink just is mental. How ever some Leds give off more purple than UV light hence why we say cold cathodes are better.


The ice blue shows at most lower levels of ambient light, not in bright ambient light, but I want to say that I switched from cold cathodes to LED and will never go back to those damn things. They're supposed to give off the most even light, but they're not bright and takes way too many of them for it to light up properly, not to mention the install process. The UV leds i'm using are way better. I'm using mayhems ice blue UV with their white pastel. Looks awesome!


----------



## Ascendic

I agree regarding cathodes. I've tried several different brands and none of them were very bright and a pain to install due to the inverter. I will never use cold cathodes again. My uv leds from darkside are bright as hell and easy to install.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Some nice EK + Mayhems action going on in this photo:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing the PSU being on front side of the chassis in display like that is intentional? I get it, it would just drive me insane lol
Click to expand...

No other place to put it lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Some nice EK + Mayhems action going on in this photo:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> how are temps for the motherboard? probably get barely any airflow when its stuffed full like that.
> 
> EDIT: though its kind of a cool look
Click to expand...

Not sure since the current CPU doesn't play nicely with the motherboard. It's an early Xenon ES. However, it's the exact same setup as my Compact Splash and temps are great.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> how are temps for the motherboard? probably get barely any airflow when its stuffed full like that.
> 
> EDIT: though its kind of a cool look
> 
> 
> 
> The fan of the PSU is placed directly over the IO part of the motherboard so that should actually get a fair amount of air flow, I have no idea about the rest of it though.
Click to expand...

All of the fans are intake and the PSU exhausts them out. Works well.

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> For those who use UV lighting in there builds with UV Coolant. How dark does the room have to be for UV to be effective? I just got new lighting in my room (it's a bit bright, 40W x 4 LED)
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Depends on the wave length of the leds but UV Laser green will stand out the most, UV clear blue, UV blue is very much a light colour and UV pink just is mental. How ever some Leds give off more purple than UV light hence why we say cold cathodes are better.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The ice blue shows at most lower levels of ambient light, not in bright ambient light, but I want to say that I switched from cold cathodes to LED and will never go back to those damn things. They're supposed to give off the most even light, but they're not bright and takes way too many of them for it to light up properly, not to mention the install process. The UV leds i'm using are way better. I'm using mayhems ice blue UV with their white pastel. Looks awesome!
Click to expand...

Sort of agree. Yes CCFL can be a pain to place at times how ever i use reflective plastic to transmit the back end of the CFFL back into a case (mount them at angles). Darkside Leds work best for us and after testing many of the cheaper bands of leds we found these to be the over all best at doing a very good job also they have a wider spectrum of UV light were as cheaper brands have a much lower spectrum. Saying that we have not tested every brand out there. Some thing to watch out for leds that have a plastic coating around them can burn the plastic that covers them which is annoying, try to go for ones that are not waterproof.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sort of agree. Yes CCFL can be a pain to place at times how ever i use reflective plastic to transmit the back end of the CFFL back into a case (mount them at angles). Darkside Leds work best for us and after testing many of the cheaper bands of leds we found these to be the over all best at doing a very good job also they have a wider spectrum of UV light were as cheaper brands have a much lower spectrum. Saying that we have not tested every brand out there. Some thing to watch out for leds that have a plastic coating around them can burn the plastic that covers them which is annoying, try to go for ones that are not waterproof.


Currently I'm using cablemod's hybrid UV/RGB strips. They do let out some purple over the UV, but I am pleased with it's output. I'll have to try the darkside UVs at some point to gauge the difference.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Sort of agree. Yes CCFL can be a pain to place at times how ever i use reflective plastic to transmit the back end of the CFFL back into a case (mount them at angles). Darkside Leds work best for us and after testing many of the cheaper bands of leds we found these to be the over all best at doing a very good job also they have a wider spectrum of UV light were as cheaper brands have a much lower spectrum. Saying that we have not tested every brand out there. Some thing to watch out for leds that have a plastic coating around them can burn the plastic that covers them which is annoying, try to go for ones that are not waterproof.
> 
> 
> 
> Currently I'm using cablemod's hybrid UV/RGB strips. They do let out some purple over the UV, but I am pleased with it's output. I'll have to try the darkside UVs at some point to gauge the difference.
Click to expand...

A lot of people like cablemods leds but i have never tested or played with them, but they do get good rep. Might have to get some in at some point.


----------



## emsj86

For anyone interested purple dye in white pastel. I will be draining and trying other colors since I picked up different dyes.


----------



## Ascendic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> For anyone interested purple dye in white pastel. I will be draining and trying other colors since I picked up different dyes.


Let me know if you come up with a nice purple. I tried my hand at some purple and it always looked a little gray or muddy. I was trying to get a nice bright purple like the primochill violet opaque or maybe magenta?

Regarding your pic, what are the fittings attached to at the bottom of the case? Is it just a female female g1/4" adapter?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Currently I'm using cablemod's hybrid UV/RGB strips. They do let out some purple over the UV, but I am pleased with it's output. I'll have to try the darkside UVs at some point to gauge the difference.


DarkSide is True UV, CableMod is semi UV with a mix of Purple. DarkSide are still the best LED at a reasonable price.

I know some people are against CCFL, I found MonSoon CCFL to be very good & very good quality compared to others I have seen.

----

Right now I'm on the fence on what type of lighting to use. UV or some Lite RGB in my case.

I also thought about running light through the tubes (Similar to those LED fittings). My runs are not massive or have many bends (Since I'm using Glass) the lighting should be fine getting from Point A to Point B without any degradation in the light.

Again It was color to run through the tubes UV or Blue.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> DarkSide is True UV, CableMod is semi UV with a mix of Purple. DarkSide are still the best LED at a reasonable price.
> 
> I know some people are against CCFL, I found MonSoon CCFL to be very good & very good quality compared to others I have seen.
> 
> ----
> 
> Right now I'm on the fence on what type of lighting to use. UV or some Lite RGB in my case.
> 
> I also thought about running light through the tubes (Similar to those LED fittings). My runs are not massive or have many bends (Since I'm using Glass) the lighting should be fine getting from Point A to Point B without any degradation in the light.
> 
> Again It was color to run through the tubes UV or Blue.


I have the monsoon CCFL's as well but the light output on them aren't as great as the Darkside LED's although the LED's are more expensive but the cost ends up equaling out if you include the inverter and switch. The Monsoon CCFLS's are higher quality then others I have used but the size and output is just a little lacking IMO....I do like having them on the back of my res with the mounts though, looks pretty sharp


----------



## jura11

In middle of building of loop for my friend

Mayhems Pastel Red and Mayhems UV White 13/10 tubing with Barrow fittings



Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> I have the monsoon CCFL's as well but the light output on them aren't as great as the Darkside LED's although the LED's are more expensive but the cost ends up equaling out if you include the inverter and switch. The Monsoon CCFLS's are higher quality then others I have used but the size and output is just a little lacking IMO....I do like having them on the back of my res with the mounts though, looks pretty sharp


I'm not going to complain since I got most of my MMRS gear for free.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I'm not going to complain since I got most of my MMRS gear for free.


HA! I wouldn't either







wish I could say the same but not really complaining since I really like the MMRS stuff definitely quality IMO and love the aesthetics


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascendic*
> 
> Let me know if you come up with a nice purple. I tried my hand at some purple and it always looked a little gray or muddy. I was trying to get a nice bright purple like the primochill violet opaque or maybe magenta?
> 
> Regarding your pic, what are the fittings attached to at the bottom of the case? Is it just a female female g1/4" adapter?


Just ek female to female bulk pass through fittings going through 1/4 acrylic


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems new coolant lands tomorrow for testing ->

Warning this is not a product for sale as of yet! It is a R&D project into new graphene type coolant

From conception to reality, Sci fi has been brought to life. The world's first ever PC liquid coolant based on a Graphite type 2d structure. Chemically inert and PH stable with no use of surfactants what so ever. Each and every particle is atom manipulated so that it doesn't bond and stays afloat for extremely long periods of time. This none conductive coolant has been along time in the making and is a 100% British made and will be a world first. Not only will it increase the life expectancy of pumps it may all so out last the life of a PC. Due to the nature of the hexagonal structure the thermal efficacy will be beyond what water on its own can deliver. The Coolant has a very low dielectric constant and high temperature stability as well as extremely high thermal conductivity. The future lands in our hands tomorrow ready for initial testing&#8230; If this works all your bases will belong to us ..

We will keep you updated how things work out. Here's looking to the future.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems new coolant lands tomorrow for testing ->
> 
> Warning this is not a product for sale as of yet! It is a R&D project into new graphene type coolant
> 
> From conception to reality, Sci fi has been brought to life. The world's first ever PC liquid coolant based on a Graphite type 2d structure. Chemically inert and PH stable with no use of surfactants what so ever. Each and every particle is atom manipulated so that it doesn't bond and stays afloat for extremely long periods of time. This none conductive coolant has been along time in the making and is a 100% British made and will be a world first. Not only will it increase the life expectancy of pumps it may all so out last the life of a PC. Due to the nature of the hexagonal structure the thermal efficacy will be beyond what water on its own can deliver. The Coolant has a very low dielectric constant and high temperature stability as well as extremely high thermal conductivity. The future lands in our hands tomorrow ready for initial testing&#8230; If this works all your bases will belong to us ..
> 
> We will keep you updated how things work out. Here's looking to the future.


Sounds amazing, I really hope this pans out!


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems new coolant lands tomorrow for testing ->
> 
> Warning this is not a product for sale as of yet! It is a R&D project into new graphene type coolant
> 
> From conception to reality, Sci fi has been brought to life. The world's first ever PC liquid coolant based on a Graphite type 2d structure. Chemically inert and PH stable with no use of surfactants what so ever. Each and every particle is atom manipulated so that it doesn't bond and stays afloat for extremely long periods of time. This none conductive coolant has been along time in the making and is a 100% British made and will be a world first. Not only will it increase the life expectancy of pumps it may all so out last the life of a PC. Due to the nature of the hexagonal structure the thermal efficacy will be beyond what water on its own can deliver. The Coolant has a very low dielectric constant and high temperature stability as well as extremely high thermal conductivity. The future lands in our hands tomorrow ready for initial testing&#8230; If this works all your bases will belong to us ..
> 
> We will keep you updated how things work out. Here's looking to the future.


Sounds expensive!


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Sounds expensive!


HA! I was thinking the same thing....a coolant the never NEEDS changing lol I could imagine the cost being that of 5 yrs worth of pastel lol.....still very cool indeed


----------



## Stickeelion

Damn sounds insane.

wonder what it looks like.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems new coolant lands tomorrow for testing ->
> 
> Warning this is not a product for sale as of yet! It is a R&D project into new graphene type coolant
> 
> From conception to reality, Sci fi has been brought to life. The world's first ever PC liquid coolant based on a Graphite type 2d structure. Chemically inert and PH stable with no use of surfactants what so ever. Each and every particle is atom manipulated so that it doesn't bond and stays afloat for extremely long periods of time. This none conductive coolant has been along time in the making and is a 100% British made and will be a world first. Not only will it increase the life expectancy of pumps it may all so out last the life of a PC. Due to the nature of the hexagonal structure the thermal efficacy will be beyond what water on its own can deliver. The Coolant has a very low dielectric constant and high temperature stability as well as extremely high thermal conductivity. The future lands in our hands tomorrow ready for initial testing&#8230; If this works all your bases will belong to us ..
> 
> We will keep you updated how things work out. Here's looking to the future.


I'll take 2 Ltrs please









lots of companies starting prep work for Z370 systems for launch date - might want to drop that bad boy liquid in a few builds lol


----------



## Mayhem

The more we use the whiter it looks but atm its a ghost white. The problem is to make it to strong price will rocket.

We just did a 0.05 ratio mix and allready the VPP755 is running faster than normal when directly compared to water. Its hard to take reading though because under water the VPP was up and down a yoyo and the same is happening but faster with the new fluid.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The more we use the whiter it looks but atm its a ghost white. The problem is to make it to strong price will rocket.


Any indication as to if it will take to dyes well? If the molecules are 100% stable, I could see it being a problem.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Might have to use coloured Boosters , be white but with sparkles


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The more we use the whiter it looks but atm its a ghost white. The problem is to make it to strong price will rocket.
> 
> 
> 
> Any indication as to if it will take to dyes well? If the molecules are 100% stable, I could see it being a problem.
Click to expand...

We do not know yet.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We do not know yet.


Ok, I'll keep a close eye on the results here then







Still I had no idea graphite could be used for this to start with


----------



## Mayhem

Ah its a graphine type 2d product, cannot go into detail just yet to many eyes are watching taking notes and hoping they will be able to copy .....


----------



## docsys

That sounds VERY exciting!








Can you even tell how long the testing will go until availability in your shop (if all goes well)?


----------



## Mayhem

We will be sending out to testers once were ready, we need to make sure it works perfect and then we will revise if needs be and tweak. We may allso release as a Adative so users can decide how they would like to use it. e.g in a coolant to colour and improve it ect ect.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ah its a graphine type 2d product, cannot go into detail just yet to many eyes are watching taking notes and hoping they will be able to copy .....


Gotcha









If it really performs as hoped then it could very well be revolutionary in terms of industrial applications and not to mention the longevity of things like CLCs. Hope it lives up to the expectations


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We will be sending out to testers once were ready, we need to make sure it works perfect and then we will revise if needs be and tweak. We may allso release as a Adative so users can decide how they would like to use it. e.g in a coolant to colour and improve it ect ect.


Least you have a lot of Alphacool Pumps, and sure they would be happy to send more for a new product - so everything plays nicely and avoid any of histories past mistakes








Guessing other brands would be sending too near the end of testing ?


----------



## Mayhem

TBH we very rarely get help, 98% of the testing hardware is shop bought. When you get help there are all ways strings attached and this is not good when deving a new products (i hate rules and being told what i can do and what i cannot do)..... How ever Alphacool and have not added any strings on our internal testing of there pumps but we have indeed found the viscosity of our fluid is a little more than there own and slows the the pump by about 2% how ever the new fluid speeds up a hell of a lot.


----------



## devilhead

Hello, is it just for me hard to order to other countrys mayhems products from https://mayhems.co.uk/ ? First got answer from Mick : contact lady called - Emma (because of shipping to norway), Emma send me email off guy called Michael, which don't give any answer already second day...


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> Hello, is it just for me hard to order to other countrys mayhems products from https://mayhems.co.uk/ ? First got answer from Mick : contact lady called - Emma (because of shipping to norway), Emma send me email off guy called Michael, which don't give any answer already second day...


I just assumed they wouldn't ship at all, so I ordered from Techbay.no instead. Significantly more limited selection, but it is what it is.


----------



## devilhead

yes,i know, but this time i want XT-1 Nuke liquid







i will flush my system and will install my titan Xp in loop, so want to have new liquid


----------



## Squashie

Supporting techbay.no is always a good thing


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> TBH we very rarely get help, 98% of the testing hardware is shop bought. When you get help there are all ways strings attached and this is not good when deving a new products (i hate rules and being told what i can do and what i cannot do)..... How ever Alphacool and have not added any strings on our internal testing of there pumps but we have indeed found the viscosity of our fluid is a little more than there own and slows the the pump by about 2% how ever the new fluid speeds up a hell of a lot.


I think that AlphaCool wants to find out as much as you do what is causing issues when using your fluids (that a majority of the community prefers to use). Plus it looks like they are moving in the right direction with working together with your company and even inviting you out to show you their inner workings is a huge step to improvement. The stigma they have been given throughout the community is why I haven't used many of their products, other than the VPP655 D5 I've been running alongside a EK D5 (non revo). I would like to use their rads due to their cost to performance ratio when compared to others. Lately I've been rocking XSPC, MagiCool and Hardware Labs rads with zero issues with Mayhems fluids. The last incident I had w/ a BloodRed X1 was due to BitsPower cutting corners on coatings and their jetplates in their monoblock (floor tile) which has pushed me to avoid using their products (even though I do like their copper/brass tubing and fittings). Can't wait to see the results on what you guys come up w/ and glad to see they're willing to go the extra step and work with you guys instead of condemning use of your products.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *devilhead*
> 
> Hello, is it just for me hard to order to other countrys mayhems products from https://mayhems.co.uk/ ? First got answer from Mick : contact lady called - Emma (because of shipping to norway), Emma send me email off guy called Michael, which don't give any answer already second day...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just assumed they wouldn't ship at all, so I ordered from Techbay.no instead. Significantly more limited selection, but it is what it is.
Click to expand...

Tech is me (mick) i sent you to Emma for a price then Emma sent you back to me (mick)







... ill phone Emma in the morning and get this sorted. PM what you need , full name and address and telephone number. If the email came this afternoon i was in the tech labs all afternoon working on the new fluids, hence you would have not got an answer from me. It will be sorted though.

The reason why some products wont ship from Mayhems is all about weight. When shipping to some countries its dammed expensive and we do not like to rip people off and i refuse to quote prices we have got for heavy weights because even i wont pay that much. Its normaly best to go to [email protected] (emma) direct and get her to find a price for you that is cheaper than our normal routes.

Like i say PM me what ive asked and ill sort it ....


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Tech is me (mick) i sent you to Emma for a price then Emma sent you back to me (mick)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... ill phone Emma in the morning and get this sorted. PM what you need , full name and address and telephone number. If the email came this afternoon i was in the tech labs all afternoon working on the new fluids, hence you would have not got an answer from me. It will be sorted though.
> 
> The reason why some products wont ship from Mayhems is all about weight. When shipping to some countries its dammed expensive and we do not like to rip people off and i refuse to quote prices we have got for heavy weights because even i wont pay that much. Its normaly best to go to [email protected] (emma) direct and get her to find a price for you that is cheaper than our normal routes.
> 
> Like i say PM me what ive asked and ill sort it ....


I'm going to assume that you were supposed to quote @devilhead there so I'll just mention him. I already got my parts sorted after all , though it's good to know that I can go through different channels for shipping in the future


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Tech is me (mick) i sent you to Emma for a price then Emma sent you back to me (mick)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... ill phone Emma in the morning and get this sorted. PM what you need , full name and address and telephone number. If the email came this afternoon i was in the tech labs all afternoon working on the new fluids, hence you would have not got an answer from me. It will be sorted though.
> 
> The reason why some products wont ship from Mayhems is all about weight. When shipping to some countries its dammed expensive and we do not like to rip people off and i refuse to quote prices we have got for heavy weights because even i wont pay that much. Its normaly best to go to [email protected] (emma) direct and get her to find a price for you that is cheaper than our normal routes.
> 
> Like i say PM me what ive asked and ill sort it ....
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to assume that you were supposed to quote @devilhead there so I'll just mention him. I already got my parts sorted after all , though it's good to know that I can go through different channels for shipping in the future
Click to expand...

yup my fault all sorted now ..


----------



## devilhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Tech is me (mick) i sent you to Emma for a price then Emma sent you back to me (mick)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... ill phone Emma in the morning and get this sorted. PM what you need , full name and address and telephone number. If the email came this afternoon i was in the tech labs all afternoon working on the new fluids, hence you would have not got an answer from me. It will be sorted though.
> 
> The reason why some products wont ship from Mayhems is all about weight. When shipping to some countries its dammed expensive and we do not like to rip people off and i refuse to quote prices we have got for heavy weights because even i wont pay that much. Its normaly best to go to [email protected] (emma) direct and get her to find a price for you that is cheaper than our normal routes.
> 
> Like i say PM me what ive asked and ill sort it ....


All things sorted out, will get my fluids for free, including and shipping





















Thank you Mick


----------



## DarthBaggins

This is why I prefer to use mayhems products when I can


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> This is why I prefer to use mayhems products when I can


Ditto! The support is top notch


----------



## Neokolzia

So.. my UV dye is standing up, but unbenounced to me after leaving system going for last month+ without opening it up to inspect it. The tubes and Res were not.
I had assumed the LED's on my Res were just dimming, they weren't they were burning into the Acrylic res. Now I'm concerned how bad its going to get moving forward since the watercooling in this system is only about 3.5-4 months tops old

How it was looking originally when finished




Spoiler: Photo's inside of Damage close-up









How it looks now, with UV on its generally more so 1 color, so it looks alright but my concern is the progression of the burn on the tubes. Not much I can do about the res anymore. I've seen alot of UV builds but never these kinda burns.

Acrylic res and Acrylic tubes are used



Need I start applying daily sunscreen? lol..?


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I think that AlphaCool wants to find out as much as you do what is causing issues when using your fluids (that a majority of the community prefers to use). Plus it looks like they are moving in the right direction with working together with your company and even inviting you out to show you their inner workings is a huge step to improvement. The stigma they have been given throughout the community is why I haven't used many of their products, other than the VPP655 D5 I've been running alongside a EK D5 (non revo). I would like to use their rads due to their cost to performance ratio when compared to others. Lately I've been rocking XSPC, MagiCool and Hardware Labs rads with zero issues with Mayhems fluids. The last incident I had w/ a BloodRed X1 was due to BitsPower cutting corners on coatings and their jetplates in their monoblock (floor tile) which has pushed me to avoid using their products (even though I do like their copper/brass tubing and fittings). Can't wait to see the results on what you guys come up w/ and glad to see they're willing to go the extra step and work with you guys instead of condemning use of your products.


For me being an alpha fans for a while and now using Mayhem's fluid , I would personally love to see a collaboration on their Eisbaer AIO units.

Picturing clear tubing filled with white pastel and kit being shipped with 3 primary dyes to allow users to have any colour they want.
Not other AIO kit would offer performance, Custom kit in AIO nor best Fluid used in the community in one package .


----------



## Mayhem

Got to say Some thing here kind of got people messed up a bit the new fluid we are working on is of 2d structure and is a Graphane "*type*" material ... My wording may have confused a lot of people but that is me all over ... If you hit up https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2D_Materials it will help you understand more about our product with out giving away to many secrets.The reason why i say "type" is the structure of the compounds we are working on are stripped to a single layer very much like Graphane is hence the wording Graphane Type. More will be revealed the closer we are to a released product.

Under testing there is a brilliant side effect and that is the looks. If you imagine a Non reflective cloudy type Aurora this is what you are going to get. Its extremely hard to photograph though.


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Got to say Some thing here kind of got people messed up a bit the new fluid we are working on is of 2d structure and is a Graphane "*type*" material ... My wording may have confused a lot of people but that is me all over ... If you hit up https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2D_Materials it will help you understand more about our product with out giving away to many secrets.The reason why i say "type" is the structure of the compounds we are working on are stripped to a single layer very much like Graphane is hence the wording Graphane Type. More will be revealed the closer we are to a released product.
> 
> Under testing there is a brilliant side effect and that is the looks. If you imagine a Non reflective cloudy type Aurora this is what you are going to get. Its extremely hard to photograph though.


Speaking of fluids do you have any experience with seeing similar UV burnage issues with Pastel Extreme + UV Pink dye? Or any combination of fluids? Trying to isolate the cause of my issue above, and realized that the pastel nature of my fluid might be a issue with the effectiveness at the tube surface?

I thought for the most part Acrylic is very UV stable


----------



## Stickeelion

I just gotta say, I love having a rep on here who is a chemist not just a PR specialist, it really shows (and helps) with the really detailed answers you give.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> So.. my UV dye is standing up, but unbenounced to me after leaving system going for last month+ without opening it up to inspect it. The tubes and Res were not.
> I had assumed the LED's on my Res were just dimming, they weren't they were burning into the Acrylic res. Now I'm concerned how bad its going to get moving forward since the watercooling in this system is only about 3.5-4 months tops old
> 
> How it was looking originally when finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Photo's inside of Damage close-up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How it looks now, with UV on its generally more so 1 color, so it looks alright but my concern is the progression of the burn on the tubes. Not much I can do about the res anymore. I've seen alot of UV builds but never these kinda burns.
> 
> Acrylic res and Acrylic tubes are used
> 
> 
> 
> Need I start applying daily sunscreen? lol..?


TBH thats likely nothing to do with the coolant lmao.

in any case, if you were using LED's marketed to go around your res like you had (i can see the alpahcool logo on what looks like the band that holds the leds?) you can probably get a refund/replacement.

To stop it happening again you could either get a glass reservoir https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x4-250-r2 or put the LEDs on your case to the left the reservoir so theres a half inch gap or so where it wont be directly on the res. You could also get some low power LED's that aren't as hot

I had actually thought about putting a white LED strip right behind my reservoir but decided against it due to the fact i only had a 2-3mm gap and i was concerned about the exact same thing that happened to you. Strips can get really hot, my white one had a layer of flexible clear rubber or some type of plastic moulded to the front and after about 6 months my beautiful white LED's were yellow! I was initially going to throw it out until I gave them a scrape and managed to get all the moulded rubber off and have my light white again


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> I just gotta say, I love having a rep on here who is a chemist not just a PR specialist, it really shows (and helps) with the really detailed answers you give.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> So.. my UV dye is standing up, but unbenounced to me after leaving system going for last month+ without opening it up to inspect it. The tubes and Res were not.
> I had assumed the LED's on my Res were just dimming, they weren't they were burning into the Acrylic res. Now I'm concerned how bad its going to get moving forward since the watercooling in this system is only about 3.5-4 months tops old
> 
> How it was looking originally when finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Photo's inside of Damage close-up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How it looks now, with UV on its generally more so 1 color, so it looks alright but my concern is the progression of the burn on the tubes. Not much I can do about the res anymore. I've seen alot of UV builds but never these kinda burns.
> 
> Acrylic res and Acrylic tubes are used
> 
> 
> 
> Need I start applying daily sunscreen? lol..?
> 
> 
> 
> TBH thats likely nothing to do with the coolant lmao.
> 
> in any case, if you were using LED's marketed to go around your res like you had (i can see the alpahcool logo on what looks like the band that holds the leds?) you can probably get a refund/replacement.
> 
> To stop it happening again you could either get a glass reservoir https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x4-250-r2 or put the LEDs on your case to the left the reservoir so theres a half inch gap or so where it wont be directly on the res. You could also get some low power LED's that aren't as hot
> 
> I had actually thought about putting a white LED strip right behind my reservoir but decided against it due to the fact i only had a 2-3mm gap and i was concerned about the exact same thing that happened to you. Strips can get really hot, my white one had a layer of flexible clear rubber or some type of plastic moulded to the front and after about 6 months my beautiful white LED's were yellow! I was initially going to throw it out until I gave them a scrape and managed to get all the moulded rubber off and have my light white again
Click to expand...

Yes but its not a isolated issue with the res, thats just where its been effected the worse. There is discoloration where its bleached the acrylic tubes where the UV lights are shining even 1ft+ away

In the photo's it shows the tubes with a Dark pink hue, thats not because of case lighting thats literally what color the tube is now in plain light

The heat of the LED's on the res and the UV compounded to create that issue I agree and its a write off thats fine. But my concern is the darkening where the tubes aren't directly beside the UV light and how to prevent that.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Got to say Some thing here kind of got people messed up a bit the new fluid we are working on is of 2d structure and is a Graphane "*type*" material ... My wording may have confused a lot of people but that is me all over ... If you hit up https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2D_Materials it will help you understand more about our product with out giving away to many secrets.The reason why i say "type" is the structure of the compounds we are working on are stripped to a single layer very much like Graphane is hence the wording Graphane Type. More will be revealed the closer we are to a released product.
> 
> Under testing there is a brilliant side effect and that is the looks. If you imagine a Non reflective cloudy type Aurora this is what you are going to get. Its extremely hard to photograph though.
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of fluids do you have any experience with seeing similar UV burnage issues with Pastel Extreme + UV Pink dye? Or any combination of fluids? Trying to isolate the cause of my issue above, and realized that the pastel nature of my fluid might be a issue with the effectiveness at the tube surface?
> 
> I thought for the most part Acrylic is very UV stable
Click to expand...

We have never heard of it with pink but have seen it with UV yellow and some leds. We do not know why or how its happening and have never been able to replicate it here in the office, Its one of them UFO mystery's. Look though my database in the last 3 years its been reported to us 2x. Just checked again and one was using flexible tube (cheap Chinese stuff) and another was using PETG, so even there is nothing is pointing to a single source of the problem. How ever both were leds not CCFL. If we add your into the mix all 3 seems to be LED related but as to what is causing it we simply do not know.

I could surmise pastel blocks UV light, now we do now very rare cases of some UV leds will let off a tiny amount of UV that can cause tubing / plastic to disintegrate quicker, This was tested with some brands of leds and a sun uv reader. This is why its important for tubing / plastic to have UV blockers in there but that is down to each and every manufacturer. If the products are made in china well there goes the QC controls.

I wish i had a better answer but we have not got enough data to be able to solve the problem, im sorry.

P.s Im not a Chemist , Im modder / liquid cooler with a strong passion for my hobby and a willingness to learn every thing i can about what i do.


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Got to say Some thing here kind of got people messed up a bit the new fluid we are working on is of 2d structure and is a Graphane "*type*" material ... My wording may have confused a lot of people but that is me all over ... If you hit up https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2D_Materials it will help you understand more about our product with out giving away to many secrets.The reason why i say "type" is the structure of the compounds we are working on are stripped to a single layer very much like Graphane is hence the wording Graphane Type. More will be revealed the closer we are to a released product.
> 
> Under testing there is a brilliant side effect and that is the looks. If you imagine a Non reflective cloudy type Aurora this is what you are going to get. Its extremely hard to photograph though.
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of fluids do you have any experience with seeing similar UV burnage issues with Pastel Extreme + UV Pink dye? Or any combination of fluids? Trying to isolate the cause of my issue above, and realized that the pastel nature of my fluid might be a issue with the effectiveness at the tube surface?
> 
> I thought for the most part Acrylic is very UV stable
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> We have never heard of it with pink but have seen it with UV yellow and some leds. We do not know why or how its happening and have never been able to replicate it here in the office, Its one of them UFO mystery's. Look though my database in the last 3 years its been reported to us 2x. Just checked again and one was using flexible tube (cheap Chinese stuff) and another was using PETG, so even there is nothing is pointing to a single source of the problem. How ever both were leds not CCFL. If we add your into the mix all 3 seems to be LED related but as to what is causing it we simply do not know.
> 
> I could surmise pastel blocks UV light, now we do now very rare cases of some UV leds will let off a tiny amount of UV that can cause tubing / plastic to disintegrate quicker, This was tested with some brands of leds and a sun uv reader. This is why its important for tubing / plastic to have UV blockers in there but that is down to each and every manufacturer. If the products are made in china well there goes the QC controls.
> 
> I wish i had a better answer but we have not got enough data to be able to solve the problem, im sorry.
> 
> P.s Im not a Chemist , Im modder / liquid cooler with a strong passion for my hobby and a willingness to learn every thing i can about what i do.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, just figured since you deal with metric tonne of watercooling data, and my understanding that acrylic is meant to be stable with UV light. So I'm calling the quality of the acrylic into question then. I might run a test with some other LED's and possibly another brand of Acrylic tubing, to try and replicate and isolate the issue.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Got to say Some thing here kind of got people messed up a bit the new fluid we are working on is of 2d structure and is a Graphane "*type*" material ... My wording may have confused a lot of people but that is me all over ... If you hit up https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2D_Materials it will help you understand more about our product with out giving away to many secrets.The reason why i say "type" is the structure of the compounds we are working on are stripped to a single layer very much like Graphane is hence the wording Graphane Type. More will be revealed the closer we are to a released product.
> 
> Under testing there is a brilliant side effect and that is the looks. If you imagine a Non reflective cloudy type Aurora this is what you are going to get. Its extremely hard to photograph though.
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of fluids do you have any experience with seeing similar UV burnage issues with Pastel Extreme + UV Pink dye? Or any combination of fluids? Trying to isolate the cause of my issue above, and realized that the pastel nature of my fluid might be a issue with the effectiveness at the tube surface?
> 
> I thought for the most part Acrylic is very UV stable
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> We have never heard of it with pink but have seen it with UV yellow and some leds. We do not know why or how its happening and have never been able to replicate it here in the office, Its one of them UFO mystery's. Look though my database in the last 3 years its been reported to us 2x. Just checked again and one was using flexible tube (cheap Chinese stuff) and another was using PETG, so even there is nothing is pointing to a single source of the problem. How ever both were leds not CCFL. If we add your into the mix all 3 seems to be LED related but as to what is causing it we simply do not know.
> 
> I could surmise pastel blocks UV light, now we do now very rare cases of some UV leds will let off a tiny amount of UV that can cause tubing / plastic to disintegrate quicker, This was tested with some brands of leds and a sun uv reader. This is why its important for tubing / plastic to have UV blockers in there but that is down to each and every manufacturer. If the products are made in china well there goes the QC controls.
> 
> I wish i had a better answer but we have not got enough data to be able to solve the problem, im sorry.
> 
> P.s Im not a Chemist , Im modder / liquid cooler with a strong passion for my hobby and a willingness to learn every thing i can about what i do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the reply, just figured since you deal with metric tonne of watercooling data, and my understanding that acrylic is meant to be stable with UV light. So I'm calling the quality of the acrylic into question then. I might run a test with some other LED's and possibly another brand of Acrylic tubing, to try and replicate and isolate the issue.
Click to expand...

Please keep us up to date with any data because it is some thing i would love to find out my self. It would be good for any future reference and understanding.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Got to say Some thing here kind of got people messed up a bit the new fluid we are working on is of 2d structure and is a Graphane "*type*" material ... My wording may have confused a lot of people but that is me all over ... If you hit up https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2D_Materials it will help you understand more about our product with out giving away to many secrets.The reason why i say "type" is the structure of the compounds we are working on are stripped to a single layer very much like Graphane is hence the wording Graphane Type. More will be revealed the closer we are to a released product.
> 
> Under testing there is a brilliant side effect and that is the looks. If you imagine a Non reflective cloudy type Aurora this is what you are going to get. Its extremely hard to photograph though.


glass tubing and Res then for best visuals . Wonder how this would look if you got a tube and grooved it like a Gun barrel . so the whole fluid is in a same rotation spin ! guessing that would look insane !

would be a vortex effect in a tube length


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Yes but its not a isolated issue with the res, thats just where its been effected the worse. There is discoloration where its bleached the acrylic tubes where the UV lights are shining even 1ft+ away
> 
> In the photo's it shows the tubes with a Dark pink hue, thats not because of case lighting thats literally what color the tube is now in plain light
> 
> The heat of the LED's on the res and the UV compounded to create that issue I agree and its a write off thats fine. But my concern is the darkening where the tubes aren't directly beside the UV light and how to prevent that.


Wow I'm glad you brought this to light so I can keep an eye on my build. My new build is about a month old and I'm using the Alphacool Aurora Rings for tubing with pastel UV-White and added UV blue....wonder if encounter this but now I know what to keep an eye on


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Got to say Some thing here kind of got people messed up a bit the new fluid we are working on is of 2d structure and is a Graphane "*type*" material ... My wording may have confused a lot of people but that is me all over ... If you hit up https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2D_Materials it will help you understand more about our product with out giving away to many secrets.The reason why i say "type" is the structure of the compounds we are working on are stripped to a single layer very much like Graphane is hence the wording Graphane Type. More will be revealed the closer we are to a released product.
> 
> Under testing there is a brilliant side effect and that is the looks. If you imagine a Non reflective cloudy type Aurora this is what you are going to get. Its extremely hard to photograph though.
> 
> 
> 
> glass tubing and Res then for best visuals . Wonder how this would look if you got a tube and grooved it like a Gun barrel . so the whole fluid is in a same rotation spin ! guessing that would look insane !
> 
> would be a vortex effect in a tube length
Click to expand...

You know we actually thought about that at one, till we got the cost back ...


----------



## Mayhem

We have been testing the EK water cooling aluminium kits, we threw there tubing in the bin and replaced it with our own







and tested X1 and XT-1 Nuke and Pastel. No issues have been found what so ever. We feel the pump is a little on the weak side but should not effect performance over all. We haven't got a clue on how long it will all last until we get some data back on how much aluminium was picked up by the coolant, but as soon as we find out we will let you know.

Testers are being contacted about the new nano coolant for testing. We have chosen a small team for testing to start with and are people we have worked with in the past. We will keep you all updated.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Can't wait to see the new nano fluid in action


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Yes but its not a isolated issue with the res, thats just where its been effected the worse. There is discoloration where its bleached the acrylic tubes where the UV lights are shining even 1ft+ away
> 
> In the photo's it shows the tubes with a Dark pink hue, thats not because of case lighting thats literally what color the tube is now in plain light
> 
> The heat of the LED's on the res and the UV compounded to create that issue I agree and its a write off thats fine. But my concern is the darkening where the tubes aren't directly beside the UV light and how to prevent that.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow I'm glad you brought this to light so I can keep an eye on my build. My new build is about a month old and I'm using the Alphacool Aurora Rings for tubing with pastel UV-White and added UV blue....wonder if encounter this but now I know what to keep an eye on
Click to expand...

Out of curiosity what specific brand and type of tubing? (material etc) But since the LED will be inside tubing I suspect if it does any burn it won't be visible but may cause a dulling effect over time similar to what happened to my res, specially if the LED"s end up burning in as bad, at first they were fine but once it started to cloud up they basically seemed to slowly get hotter and hotter until it was causing that black ring.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Out of curiosity what specific brand and type of tubing? (material etc) But since the LED will be inside tubing I suspect if it does any burn it won't be visible but may cause a dulling effect over time similar to what happened to my res, specially if the LED"s end up burning in as bad, at first they were fine but once it started to cloud up they basically seemed to slowly get hotter and hotter until it was causing that black ring.


Im using Monsoon Acrylic....and the LED's are on the outside...the Aurora rings slide on the tubes themselves....just like their ring for the Res


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Out of curiosity what specific brand and type of tubing? (material etc) But since the LED will be inside tubing I suspect if it does any burn it won't be visible but may cause a dulling effect over time similar to what happened to my res, specially if the LED"s end up burning in as bad, at first they were fine but once it started to cloud up they basically seemed to slowly get hotter and hotter until it was causing that black ring.
> 
> 
> 
> Im using Monsoon Acrylic....and the LED's are on the outside...the Aurora rings slide on the tubes themselves....just like their ring for the Res
Click to expand...

Like I said in my previous posts I'm blaming bitspower acrylic blend for the burn in, because my understanding that acrylic is meant to be stable. That or combination of the reflection from Pastel Extreme and UV dye causing the burn in my case? I don't know yet.

I'm going to order some EVGA Acrylic next month and take out one of the LED's I know caused burn in and put it with some of my scrap Bitspower acrylic in a test enviroment behind my PC for awhile and see if I can replicate the clouding w/o fluid


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> We have never heard of it with pink but have seen it with UV yellow and some leds. We do not know why or how its happening and have never been able to replicate it here in the office, Its one of them UFO mystery's. Look though my database in the last 3 years its been reported to us 2x. Just checked again and one was using flexible tube (cheap Chinese stuff) and another was using PETG, so even there is nothing is pointing to a single source of the problem. How ever both were leds not CCFL. If we add your into the mix all 3 seems to be LED related but as to what is causing it we simply do not know.
> 
> I could surmise pastel blocks UV light, now we do now very rare cases of some UV leds will let off a tiny amount of UV that can cause tubing / plastic to disintegrate quicker, This was tested with some brands of leds and a sun uv reader. This is why its important for tubing / plastic to have UV blockers in there but that is down to each and every manufacturer. If the products are made in china well there goes the QC controls.
> 
> I wish i had a better answer but we have not got enough data to be able to solve the problem, im sorry.
> 
> P.s Im not a Chemist , Im modder / liquid cooler with a strong passion for my hobby and a willingness to learn every thing i can about what i do.


And Mayhem clear tubing has UV blockers, right?


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh it does have UVA and some UVB blockers. We only allow certain light spectrum's though to activate UV coolant.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Like I said in my previous posts I'm blaming bitspower acrylic blend for the burn in, because my understanding that acrylic is meant to be stable. That or combination of the reflection from Pastel Extreme and UV dye causing the burn in my case? I don't know yet.


Add another reason why I went with glass tubing.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Add another reason why I went with glass tubing.


I'm looking forward to working with glass tubing as well. What ID/OD did you go with? Seems like 10/13 is the easiest to cut?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> I'm looking forward to working with glass tubing as well. What ID/OD did you go with? Seems like 10/13 is the easiest to cut?


16 OD, All are easy to cut through with a Dremel. Just make sure you always using water & mask.


----------



## Mayhem

Oky i do not know if this is braking the rules. This is not an avert, not a sales pitch! its what we have been working on for a few years and is still in testing but we now have a name for it thks to the guys on our facebook group. It actually gives you an idea of what we have been up to, were we are heading and well lets just say it doesn't give that much away just yet.

Mayhems Lemniscate coolant is a culmination of understanding and working with nano coolants for over 8 years. Our new Lemniscate coolant is a 2-dimensional planar nanomaterial-based fluid. Our Crystalline 2D Nanosheet particles are atom manipulated via quantum chemistry so that it can be suspended without any use of chemicals and directly in water. The bonding process and manipulation of atoms is done in the UK using the latest technological advancements in research and development which Mayhems has direct access unlike any other PC liquid cooling company. This allows Mayhems to keep the quality high and allow for us to change the formula on demand depending on the needed application and frequency or strength needed with in the coolant.

Mayhems Lemniscate Coolant is PH stable and is not susceptible chemical reactions with in a closed liquid cooling system. The Crystalline 2-dimensional planar nanomaterial-based structure's have a thermal conductivity range of 150 to 270 W/mK (dependant on %wat) heat due to the use of decreased photon scattering and all so have an extreme thermal stability which is more than any known liquid coolant formula to date. Mayhems Lemniscate coolant has a natural super lubricant meaning we do not need to use more chemicals than necessary to achieve goals way beyond any thing that has graced the liquid cooling scene to date and can increase your pump life and equipment way beyond what normal coolants can do.

So what does this all mean to you the end user. Well Mayhems has created from the ground up a technology advanced liquid coolant that no other company has ever done before. Our understanding and learnt knowledge though out the years has grown and our link's with in the scientific community has helped us better understand what needs to be done and what goals needed to be achieved to create such advanced coolants.

*Possible advantages over other coolants!*

A first of its kind 2d Nano coolant.
Made solely by Mayhems Solutions Ltd
Better thermal effeminacy than any other known coolant
Fully tested beyond ability's of a PC liquid cooling system.
Extends the life of pumps and liquid cooling equipment.
Natural biocide with no added extras.
PH stable.
Chemical stable.
Can be seen flowing in a system.
More information to be released soon. Time to change the liquid cooling world once again ..
*What next !*

Well we got the samples back the other day and after a few days worth of testing we didn't believe the results we were getting back and what we were seeing!. Yes that is right some times you doubt your very own eyes and work..... It is effectively beyond what we expected. This has caused us to order in 3 new water cooling systems to test direct against Water, Pastel and Lemniscate. We are not using the older systems we have on (6 to 7 years old) hand, as we wish to have each and every coolant base tested in a virgin Liquid Cooled PC from the ground up. We will report on our findings and were we go from there afterwards. I'm excited to say the least .......

If you have any questions fire away !!!! Ill answer the best i can, but cannot tell you what were using, how were using it and details of how were making it!


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Oky i do not know if this is braking the rules. This is not an avert, not a sales pitch! its what we have been working on for a few years and is still in testing but we now have a name for it thks to the guys on our facebook group. It actually gives you an idea of what we have been up to, were we are heading and well lets just say it doesn't give that much away just yet.
> 
> Mayhems Lemniscate coolant is a culmination of understanding and working with nano coolants for over 8 years. Our new Lemniscate coolant is a 2-dimensional planar nanomaterial-based fluid. Our Crystalline 2D Nanosheet particles are atom manipulated via quantum chemistry so that it can be suspended without any use of chemicals and directly in water. The bonding process and manipulation of atoms is done in the UK using the latest technological advancements in research and development which Mayhems has direct access unlike any other PC liquid cooling company. This allows Mayhems to keep the quality high and allow for us to change the formula on demand depending on the needed application and frequency or strength needed with in the coolant.
> 
> Mayhems Lemniscate Coolant is PH stable and is not susceptible chemical reactions with in a closed liquid cooling system. The Crystalline 2-dimensional planar nanomaterial-based structure's have a thermal conductivity range of 150 to 270 W/mK (dependant on %wat) heat due to the use of decreased photon scattering and all so have an extreme thermal stability which is more than any known liquid coolant formula to date. Mayhems Lemniscate coolant has a natural super lubricant meaning we do not need to use more chemicals than necessary to achieve goals way beyond any thing that has graced the liquid cooling scene to date and can increase your pump life and equipment way beyond what normal coolants can do.
> 
> So what does this all mean to you the end user. Well Mayhems has created from the ground up a technology advanced liquid coolant that no other company has ever done before. Our understanding and learnt knowledge though out the years has grown and our link's with in the scientific community has helped us better understand what needs to be done and what goals needed to be achieved to create such advanced coolants.
> 
> *Possible advantages over other coolants!*
> 
> A first of its kind 2d Nano coolant.
> Made solely by Mayhems Solutions Ltd
> Better thermal effeminacy than any other known coolant
> Fully tested beyond ability's of a PC liquid cooling system.
> Extends the life of pumps and liquid cooling equipment.
> Natural biocide with no added extras.
> PH stable.
> Chemical stable.
> Can be seen flowing in a system.
> More information to be released soon. Time to change the liquid cooling world once again ..
> *What next !*
> 
> Well we got the samples back the other day and after a few days worth of testing we didn't believe the results we were getting back and what we were seeing!. Yes that is right some times you doubt your very own eyes and work..... It is effectively beyond what we expected. This has caused us to order in 3 new water cooling systems to test direct against Water, Pastel and Lemniscate. We are not using the older systems we have on (6 to 7 years old) hand, as we wish to have each and every coolant base tested in a virgin Liquid Cooled PC from the ground up. We will report on our findings and were we go from there afterwards. I'm excited to say the least .......
> 
> If you have any questions fire away !!!! Ill answer the best i can, but cannot tell you what were using, how were using it and details of how were making it!


You sound quite excited. Makes me excited as well. Is this an additive to distilled water or its own complete solution without adding water? Since my system would need about 1.6 liters, could get pricey.. but if it's actually transferring heat better than our current solutions, could be promising! Changes everything, really. If it works.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Oky i do not know if this is braking the rules. This is not an avert, not a sales pitch! its what we have been working on for a few years and is still in testing but we now have a name for it thks to the guys on our facebook group. It actually gives you an idea of what we have been up to, were we are heading and well lets just say it doesn't give that much away just yet.
> 
> Mayhems Lemniscate coolant is a culmination of understanding and working with nano coolants for over 8 years. Our new Lemniscate coolant is a 2-dimensional planar nanomaterial-based fluid. Our Crystalline 2D Nanosheet particles are atom manipulated via quantum chemistry so that it can be suspended without any use of chemicals and directly in water. The bonding process and manipulation of atoms is done in the UK using the latest technological advancements in research and development which Mayhems has direct access unlike any other PC liquid cooling company. This allows Mayhems to keep the quality high and allow for us to change the formula on demand depending on the needed application and frequency or strength needed with in the coolant.
> 
> Mayhems Lemniscate Coolant is PH stable and is not susceptible chemical reactions with in a closed liquid cooling system. The Crystalline 2-dimensional planar nanomaterial-based structure's have a thermal conductivity range of 150 to 270 W/mK (dependant on %wat) heat due to the use of decreased photon scattering and all so have an extreme thermal stability which is more than any known liquid coolant formula to date. Mayhems Lemniscate coolant has a natural super lubricant meaning we do not need to use more chemicals than necessary to achieve goals way beyond any thing that has graced the liquid cooling scene to date and can increase your pump life and equipment way beyond what normal coolants can do.
> 
> So what does this all mean to you the end user. Well Mayhems has created from the ground up a technology advanced liquid coolant that no other company has ever done before. Our understanding and learnt knowledge though out the years has grown and our link's with in the scientific community has helped us better understand what needs to be done and what goals needed to be achieved to create such advanced coolants.
> 
> *Possible advantages over other coolants!*
> 
> A first of its kind 2d Nano coolant.
> Made solely by Mayhems Solutions Ltd
> Better thermal effeminacy than any other known coolant
> Fully tested beyond ability's of a PC liquid cooling system.
> Extends the life of pumps and liquid cooling equipment.
> Natural biocide with no added extras.
> PH stable.
> Chemical stable.
> Can be seen flowing in a system.
> More information to be released soon. Time to change the liquid cooling world once again ..
> *What next !*
> 
> Well we got the samples back the other day and after a few days worth of testing we didn't believe the results we were getting back and what we were seeing!. Yes that is right some times you doubt your very own eyes and work..... It is effectively beyond what we expected. This has caused us to order in 3 new water cooling systems to test direct against Water, Pastel and Lemniscate. We are not using the older systems we have on (6 to 7 years old) hand, as we wish to have each and every coolant base tested in a virgin Liquid Cooled PC from the ground up. We will report on our findings and were we go from there afterwards. I'm excited to say the least .......
> 
> If you have any questions fire away !!!! Ill answer the best i can, but cannot tell you what were using, how were using it and details of how were making it!


Bravo!

I have a simple question, is it non-toxic?


----------



## Chaoz

Can we expect the same look as the Aurora but with the possibility of running it in a non-showcase PC for a longer period without any build up in the loop?

Is it going to be available in different colours? Will it be Opaque or transparant?

I'm really interested in this. Sounds promising. Can't wait to give it a go and replace my Pastel Extreme for some Lemniscate.

I'm going to need quite a bit aswell as my loop holds 1.8-2l of coolant. So hopefully the price won't be too high.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> You sound quite excited. Makes me excited as well. Is this an additive to distilled water or its own complete solution without adding water? Since my system would need about 1.6 liters, could get pricey.. but if it's actually transferring heat better than our current solutions, could be promising! Changes everything, really. If it works.
> 
> 
> 
> It can be made into an additive later on but were concentrating on making a full stable coolant for now. It should work with all coolants and help to increase there heat loading capability and viscosity.
Click to expand...


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chaoz*
> 
> Can we expect the same look as the Aurora but with the possibility of running it in a non-showcase PC for a longer period without any build up in the loop?
> 
> Is it going to be available in different colours? Will it be Opaque or transparant?
> 
> I'm really interested in this. Sounds promising. Can't wait to give it a go and replace my Pastel Extreme for some Lemniscate.
> 
> I'm going to need quite a bit aswell as my loop holds 1.8-2l of coolant. So hopefully the price won't be too high.


1) It will look like aurora without the reflective effects and its small in size. How ever when we have seen close up to the tube you can see it passing though the tubes. We think with light behind it its brilliant. All so it doesn't fall out.

2) We are testing it in red due to us dumping it a system that contained red dye before and us not cleaning it out to the best we could off. So instead we added more red dye just for the giggles and it didn't effect it performance. How ever the same Pre cleaning rules would have to be done as per other coolants.

3) Price is undermined at the moment as I haven't actually worked out how much this has all cost us. That is the least of my problems and i leave the money side up to steve to work out. I do not expect to be as cheap as our past coolant but price will come down over time and the more we produce. If we took into account all the hours spent and years working on it we would not be able to make a marketable coolant.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Oky i do not know if this is braking the rules. This is not an avert, not a sales pitch! its what we have been working on for a few years and is still in testing but we now have a name for it thks to the guys on our facebook group. It actually gives you an idea of what we have been up to, were we are heading and well lets just say it doesn't give that much away just yet.
> 
> Mayhems Lemniscate coolant is a culmination of understanding and working with nano coolants for over 8 years. Our new Lemniscate coolant is a 2-dimensional planar nanomaterial-based fluid. Our Crystalline 2D Nanosheet particles are atom manipulated via quantum chemistry so that it can be suspended without any use of chemicals and directly in water. The bonding process and manipulation of atoms is done in the UK using the latest technological advancements in research and development which Mayhems has direct access unlike any other PC liquid cooling company. This allows Mayhems to keep the quality high and allow for us to change the formula on demand depending on the needed application and frequency or strength needed with in the coolant.
> 
> Mayhems Lemniscate Coolant is PH stable and is not susceptible chemical reactions with in a closed liquid cooling system. The Crystalline 2-dimensional planar nanomaterial-based structure's have a thermal conductivity range of 150 to 270 W/mK (dependant on %wat) heat due to the use of decreased photon scattering and all so have an extreme thermal stability which is more than any known liquid coolant formula to date. Mayhems Lemniscate coolant has a natural super lubricant meaning we do not need to use more chemicals than necessary to achieve goals way beyond any thing that has graced the liquid cooling scene to date and can increase your pump life and equipment way beyond what normal coolants can do.
> 
> So what does this all mean to you the end user. Well Mayhems has created from the ground up a technology advanced liquid coolant that no other company has ever done before. Our understanding and learnt knowledge though out the years has grown and our link's with in the scientific community has helped us better understand what needs to be done and what goals needed to be achieved to create such advanced coolants.
> 
> *Possible advantages over other coolants!*
> 
> A first of its kind 2d Nano coolant.
> Made solely by Mayhems Solutions Ltd
> Better thermal effeminacy than any other known coolant
> Fully tested beyond ability's of a PC liquid cooling system.
> Extends the life of pumps and liquid cooling equipment.
> Natural biocide with no added extras.
> PH stable.
> Chemical stable.
> Can be seen flowing in a system.
> More information to be released soon. Time to change the liquid cooling world once again ..
> *What next !*
> 
> Well we got the samples back the other day and after a few days worth of testing we didn't believe the results we were getting back and what we were seeing!. Yes that is right some times you doubt your very own eyes and work..... It is effectively beyond what we expected. This has caused us to order in 3 new water cooling systems to test direct against Water, Pastel and Lemniscate. We are not using the older systems we have on (6 to 7 years old) hand, as we wish to have each and every coolant base tested in a virgin Liquid Cooled PC from the ground up. We will report on our findings and were we go from there afterwards. I'm excited to say the least .......
> 
> If you have any questions fire away !!!! Ill answer the best i can, but cannot tell you what were using, how were using it and details of how were making it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bravo!
> 
> I have a simple question, is it non-toxic?
Click to expand...

Yes so far we have managed to keep it non-toxic. We are not using any sort of glycol in it what so ever. The formulation is totaly bespoke.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes so far we have managed to keep it non-toxic. We are not using any sort of glycol in it what so ever. The formulation is totaly bespoke.


Mayhems seems to be the only company looking to change things and challenge the current competition, at least in the consumer market. Looking forward to see what happens with this.


----------



## catbuster

Can we get any pictures of new coolant?







I think many will be excited


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Can we get any pictures of new coolant?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think many will be excited


Not until we take some, no photos as of yet! That will come later when we have some decent shots.


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> You sound quite excited. Makes me excited as well. Is this an additive to distilled water or its own complete solution without adding water? Since my system would need about 1.6 liters, could get pricey.. but if it's actually transferring heat better than our current solutions, could be promising! Changes everything, really. If it works.


He's so excited, he's working and posting about it at 4am on a Monday morning UK time.

I bet you haven't been to bed yet from Sunday, have you, Mick?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> You sound quite excited. Makes me excited as well. Is this an additive to distilled water or its own complete solution without adding water? Since my system would need about 1.6 liters, could get pricey.. but if it's actually transferring heat better than our current solutions, could be promising! Changes everything, really. If it works.
> 
> 
> 
> He's so excited, he's working and posting about it at 4am on a Monday morning UK time.
> 
> I bet you haven't been to bed yet from Sunday, have you, Mick?
Click to expand...

lol yeh it was a bit early in the morning. We never sleep

Just a quick show, this is by no means the end product, we still have a lot of work to do on it but it will give you an idear how well its doing. Its a 7970 Asus matrix platinum and i forgotten what CPU ...

Its running Phobya restrictive cpu block, motherboard block and gpu block, fans are at 1/2 speed ..




it wont mean much to many until we have the new systems us and running for direct testing and comparison results. We still have a lot of work to do on it though.

P.S the name is just temporary to many people cannot say it never mind know what it means lol





Part of the parts for the new test system arrived , mostly built with in 15 min ... dam i hate waiting for parts .....


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Bravo!
> I have a simple question, is it non-toxic?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes so far we have managed to keep it non-toxic. We are not using any sort of glycol in it what so ever. The formulation is totaly bespoke.


That's good to know, thank-you.









It's reassuring when you have pets, my cat likes to get into everything.............


----------



## yobigdaddycool

I have a question, hopefully someone can answer. Can I use mayhem aurora silver booster with Mayhem UV White? If yes, how much can I use it with 1l of water?


----------



## AllGamer

@Mayhem or anyone that knows.

*Is there any adverse effect if I used a 250ml mix with 1 liter of water?*

I know the instructions says 250ml in 2 Liters of water, but I was aiming for a Darker shade of Blue.

The rig is running great, the fluid is flowing fast, no noticeable problem, everything sounds fine, best of all no trapped bubbles.

*Might the stronger formula concentration damage the tubes / pump over time ?*

(PrimoChill PRIMOFLEX Advanced LRT Crystal Clear / EK D5 PWM)


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know it won't have any effect on the pump, tubing I would think the same but Primoflex can be touchy. You could also add more blue dye to achieve the tone you're looking for.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Had testing been done on Bitspower's tubing?


----------



## Mayhem

Yes we have tested bits Power with no issues found other them me messing up cutting it and creating a few air line cracks (my fault for rushing).

I real;y need some time to update the charts.


----------



## Mads1

Loving the subtle colour of the uv clear ice blue.


----------



## hitzestau

Some Pastel Red, it is so dense, that you do not see the LED attached to the reservoir through the liquid


----------



## AllGamer

Nice very shiny red


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Yes we have tested bits Power with no issues found other them me messing up cutting it and creating a few air line cracks (my fault for rushing).
> 
> I real;y need some time to update the charts.


Are you talking abvout bitspower petg with pastel extreme?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Awesome good to know, I've had to give in on not using Bitspower products, still will not use their blocks.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Awesome good to know, I've had to give in on not using Bitspower products, still will not use their blocks.


Are yes referring to bitspower petg tubing being ok with the new coolants


----------



## DarthBaggins

No their acrylic, I know their brass/copper should be fine. I stay away from PETG tubing


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hitzestau*
> 
> Some Pastel Red, it is so dense, that you do not see the LED attached to the reservoir through the liquid


I wish I could get red pastel that looked like that!

Here's what mine looks like. The far right glass is Mayhems pastel red. Looks more like a strawberry daiquiri to me.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @Mayhem or anyone that knows.
> 
> *Is there any adverse effect if I used a 250ml mix with 1 liter of water?*
> 
> I know the instructions says 250ml in 2 Liters of water, but I was aiming for a Darker shade of Blue.


If you want darker blue use the dyes they sell to darken the Coolant. Some of the Product Photos are not 1:1. I know Coolant I have is darker then what product page shows.

btw, Did you axe your one build? It seem there been zero progress for months.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I wish I could get red pastel that looked like that!
> 
> Here's what mine looks like. The far right glass is Mayhems pastel red. Looks more like a strawberry daiquiri to me.


Hi there

That's strange there, have used on two builds Mayhems Pastel Red and both looked exactly same and both have been red



Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> That's strange there, have used on two builds Mayhems Pastel Red and both looked exactly same and both have been red
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


I have ordered three separate times from three different vendors, concentrate and full strength... all three looked the same... pink


----------



## Wally West

Are you using pre-mix? mine is concentrated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I have ordered three separate times from three different vendors, concentrate and full strength... all three looked the same... pink


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKHPuRDn6JI


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I wish I could get red pastel that looked like that!
> 
> Here's what mine looks like. The far right glass is Mayhems pastel red. Looks more like a strawberry daiquiri to me.


White + Dyes. Atlease for I had better results with creating the color I want with dyes.


----------



## Ironsmack

Anyone else ordered from Mayhem recently that are not from the US?

Trying to order a few things online, and gives me problems getting a shipping quote.

Had this same problem a year or so ago and I had to contact support to get a shipping quote. Can't believe they still have this issue when it comes to shipping to Canada ?.


----------



## Mayhem

Its not an issue. It comes down to we will not ship heavy items that cost a fortune via normal services due to the costs involved. We would rather you contacts [email protected] and ask for a quote that will save you money. Emma will do a physical search for a better quote for you that will be cheaper than normal and we will also subsidise the quote so that you save a few pounds as well. If you do not like this then you can always hit up Daz Mods who can ship to you direct.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems will be show casing our new 2D Nano coolants we have been working in cooperation between us and CPI, at the CPI open day - https://www.uk-cpi.com/events/graphene-application-centre-open-day. We will have a stall set up showing the thermal efficacy of the new beta 2D Nano coolants and the effects it can have in real time environments and probable applications.

What the event is for -

1) Growing the market for graphene application.
2) What graphene could mean to the future of aerospace.
3) What's needed to capitalise on the UK's position in graphene.
4) CPI's Graphene Application Centre.
5) Case studies.

A case study for our past projects are here -> https://www.uk-cpi.com/case-studies/mayhems-cpi-nano-coolant-formulation.

Yes more and more coolants are hitting the market but none are any ware close to what we have been working on. Looks are one thing! thermal efficacy is another.


----------



## war4peace

Water has a thermal conductivity of 0.6 W/m K at 20 degrees Celsius. Could you share the thermal conductivity of the 2D Nano Coolant?


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Please keep us up to date with any data because it is some thing i would love to find out my self. It would be good for any future reference and understanding.


So just to give an update, its been about a month I decided to keep the UV lights off besides the little 3mm ones that don't respond to the voltage being tweaked down, though with the development I might unplug those soon, just they aren't causing an issue yet due to low intensity I believe.

Basically here is an album covering the before and afters.
https://imgur.com/a/eYNYf

There has been Massive improvement comparatively over the last 25 days, I was skeptical myself but had wondered if it was nano-particles baked into the side of the acrylic or something like that, or something to do with the dye etc, specially due to the dark color/tone of the burned sections.

But its seeming likely that its the Pastel Extreme or Pink UV Dye to blame for this issue, and not the bitspower tubing as its "apparently" self healing, which is not a property of acrylic obviously.
Perhaps this might be something that might need more testing/investigation on your side? I had no idea that Pastel Extreme white would have compatibility issues with UV light, but far as I can tell is exactly what has happened

There's no visible debris in the loop that I can tell also.

EDIT: Also upon further inspection there is some form of corrosion forming on what I can at least visible see on the GPU block, where its in direct contact with the fluid (no o'ring)

https://imgur.com/a/ZjNtR

Any idea's what might be causing this, the nickle plating coming off?

The loop is made up of:
x2 Magicool Brass/Copper Rads (420mm)
Darkside Brass fittings
EK D5 Pump
Nickle/Acetal EK Blocks


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Its not an issue. It comes down to we will not ship heavy items that cost a fortune via normal services due to the costs involved. We would rather you contacts [email protected] and ask for a quote that will save you money. Emma will do a physical search for a better quote for you that will be cheaper than normal and we will also subsidise the quote so that you save a few pounds as well. If you do not like this then you can always hit up Daz Mods who can ship to you direct.


Fair enough.

However, how about a little note on the website for people ordering items that are past the shipping weight threshold? Rather than just give us an error (to a user, we see that as a technical issue), just put it on the checkout basket - _your order is above XX weight threshold, please contact support for shipping quote_? Or something along those lines?


----------



## Mayhem

The new web site goes live in a few weeks time and we can do more with that, hopefully once were up and running we can sort every thing out.

I thought there was a screen that showed a statement saying please contact sales (i did ask them) ... dam web devs ....


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Please keep us up to date with any data because it is some thing i would love to find out my self. It would be good for any future reference and understanding.
> 
> 
> 
> So just to give an update, its been about a month I decided to keep the UV lights off besides the little 3mm ones that don't respond to the voltage being tweaked down, though with the development I might unplug those soon, just they aren't causing an issue yet due to low intensity I believe.
> 
> Basically here is an album covering the before and afters.
> https://imgur.com/a/eYNYf
> 
> There has been Massive improvement comparatively over the last 25 days, I was skeptical myself but had wondered if it was nano-particles baked into the side of the acrylic or something like that, or something to do with the dye etc, specially due to the dark color/tone of the burned sections.
> 
> But its seeming likely that its the Pastel Extreme or Pink UV Dye to blame for this issue, and not the bitspower tubing as its "apparently" self healing, which is not a property of acrylic obviously.
> Perhaps this might be something that might need more testing/investigation on your side? I had no idea that Pastel Extreme white would have compatibility issues with UV light, but far as I can tell is exactly what has happened
> 
> There's no visible debris in the loop that I can tell also.
> 
> EDIT: Also upon further inspection there is some form of corrosion forming on what I can at least visible see on the GPU block, where its in direct contact with the fluid (no o'ring)
> 
> https://imgur.com/a/ZjNtR
> 
> Any idea's what might be causing this, the nickle plating coming off?
> 
> The loop is made up of:
> x2 Magicool Brass/Copper Rads (420mm)
> Darkside Brass fittings
> EK D5 Pump
> Nickle/Acetal EK Blocks
Click to expand...

Ref above

Im going to have to investigate this and get some of there tubing in for testing. Leave this with me ill get some in.

Ref the flake / pealing ... again that is defo not normal. Problem is with blocks they do discolour once you apply heat but i relay would not like to say. Id ask EK and ask them why its happening.


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Ref above
> 
> Im going to have to investigate this and get some of there tubing in for testing. Leave this with me ill get some in.
> 
> Ref the flake / pealing ... again that is defo not normal. Problem is with blocks they do discolour once you apply heat but i relay would not like to say. Id ask EK and ask them why its happening.


Alright thanks!

Specifically I used approximately 50ml of Pastel Extreme with 1800ml of distilled water, which is within your guidelines on the product page. Used with number of drops of Mayhems Pink UV dye.
Again with Bitspower tubing/res showing the only affection, there was no build up under the acetal blocks.

As for the Discolored metal, the GPU has been running 24/7 every day but only at a mere 40c at the core, so I doubt it would cause any undo harm to the block.
I have asked within the EK thread but I will bring it up directly with them.


----------



## Mayhem

Update 2d coolant -

Just a Test screen gab of the data were collecting on the new 2D nano Coolant. - Test system 1 = water - Test system 2 = IDC- Test system 3 = 2D - All 3 systems are calibrated and only running on 240mm rads with 1800 RPM fans.
???


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Alright thanks!
> 
> Specifically I used approximately 50ml of Pastel Extreme with 1800ml of distilled water, which is within your guidelines on the product page. Used with number of drops of Mayhems Pink UV dye.
> Again with Bitspower tubing/res showing the only affection, there was no build up under the acetal blocks.
> 
> As for the Discolored metal, the GPU has been running 24/7 every day but only at a mere 40c at the core, so I doubt it would cause any undo harm to the block.
> I have asked within the EK thread but I will bring it up directly with them.


Please update this thread for any updates on your issue. I'm really interested with this. Thanks!r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Update 2d coolant -
> 
> Just a Test screen gab of the data were collecting on the new 2D nano Coolant. - Test system 1 = water - Test system 2 = IDC- Test system 3 = 2D - All 3 systems are calibrated and only running on 240mm rads with 1800 RPM fans.
> ???


I'm confused. Which fields do we need to check to compare the improvement of the 2D coolant?


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Update 2d coolant -
> 
> Just a Test screen gab of the data were collecting on the new 2D nano Coolant. - Test system 1 = water - Test system 2 = IDC- Test system 3 = 2D - All 3 systems are calibrated and only running on 240mm rads with 1800 RPM fans.
> ???


I'm sorry but the data set doesn't tell me anything, the three systems have different data points and the only two data points that are the same are liquid flow (pretty similar) and _maybe_ power consumption (if it measures the same thing).


----------



## Mayhem

All the data sets are showing there all the same, apart from the wattage of the coolant removal though the rad as all the systems are running the same, e.g same speed pump, same fans, same CPUs and GPUs, ect ect. IDC is removing 92 w, Water 141 w, 2d 209 w. So far the 2d coolant is performing better than expected how ever These are long term tests. The 2d coolant is also less viscus than water which is helping it move more heat quicker. We still have lots of tests to do with varying fan speeds, varying flow rates ect ect. Also i think we can improve the 2d coolant even more. The cpu's use and gpu are running cooler with the new 2d coolant how ever we are taking that with a pinch of salt for now.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> All the data sets are showing there all the same, apart from the wattage of the coolant removal though the rad as all the systems are running the same, e.g same speed pump, same fans, same CPUs and GPUs, ect ect. IDC is removing 92 w, Water 141 w, 2d 209 w. So far the 2d coolant is performing better than expected how ever These are long term tests. The 2d coolant is also less viscus than water which is helping it move more heat quicker. We still have lots of tests to do with varying fan speeds, varying flow rates ect ect. Also i think we can improve the 2d coolant even more. The cpu's use and gpu are running cooler with the new 2d coolant how ever we are taking that with a pinch of salt for now.


That sounds really great, tbh.
Can't wait to give it a try when it's out.

Although I love my Pastel Extreme White aswell. Been running strong since beginning of this year.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> All the data sets are showing there all the same, apart from the wattage of the coolant removal though the rad as all the systems are running the same, e.g same speed pump, same fans, same CPUs and GPUs, ect ect. IDC is removing 92 w, Water 141 w, 2d 209 w. So far the 2d coolant is performing better than expected how ever These are long term tests. The 2d coolant is also less viscus than water which is helping it move more heat quicker. We still have lots of tests to do with varying fan speeds, varying flow rates ect ect. Also i think we can improve the 2d coolant even more. The cpu's use and gpu are running cooler with the new 2d coolant how ever we are taking that with a pinch of salt for now.


How big of an improvements in temps?


----------



## Mayhem

That is a good question! how ever not actually relevant as of yet. Sounds a bit crazy to say that but simply resetting a cpu block can improve or increase temps. But measuring the wattage across diffrent Rads and diffrent set ups shows us better information and more relevant information to our needs. We are after real life tests as we know simulated test show it does work but from years of experience i know this never translates across to reality. Posting temps do not count as ive tried to explain for years to users, when you take into account sea level, pressure difference, ambient, pumps and fan differences with out baselines to work from nothing should be trusted when comparing temps alone.









What im after with all of this is the ability to say, yes if you add this it will improve your temps over all by and estimated % amount. When comparing costs it has to be better than say, upgrading a cpu block and spending hundreds of £ or $ but until im 100% satisfied i wont say that.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> That is a good question! how ever not actually relevant as of yet. Sounds a bit crazy to say that but simply resetting a cpu block can improve or increase temps. But measuring the wattage across diffrent Rads and diffrent set ups shows us better information and more relevant information to our needs. We are after real life tests as we know simulated test show it does work but from years of experience i know this never translates across to reality. Posting temps do not count as ive tried to explain for years to users, when you take into account sea level, pressure difference, ambient, pumps and fan differences with out baselines to work from nothing should be trusted when comparing temps alone.


Fair enough


----------



## Mayhem

What i can say though, The PH makes no difference to this liquid and we use the least amount of chemicals to make this product. There will be no frost protection (yet) so no -c protection. We will test that at a later date.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> How big of an improvements in temps?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> What im after with all of this is the ability to say, yes if you add this it will improve your temps over all by and estimated % amount.


I guess that's exactly what Kevin asked









Right now I use Mayhems Pastel White which I think is the best white coolant so far. I have no less than 4L of Pastel White sitting on a shelf waiting to be poured into my next build. I'd switch to the new coolant in a sec if if would come in white and improve the heat transfer even by 10%.


----------



## Mayhem

10% is a miracle ask... how ever ive 10% is less than what id expect right now!!!!! but lower temps is not impossible. To many companies fighting for what id consider the tit bits and not looking at the larger bigger picture. !!! Look past what people are seeing and support what maybe coming ..... !!!!


----------



## latexyankee

quick question:

About to drain Mayhems pastel for the first time in 2 years. Is the blitz cleaning kit worth it?


----------



## war4peace

Yes, totally worth it, however you should follow the instructions by the letter.


----------



## latexyankee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Yes, totally worth it, however you should follow the instructions by the letter.


Alllllrighty. looks like I'll place an order along with some new pastel.

thanks


----------



## springs113

I've been a pastel user for years, but I want to try something else(x1).

What are the differences between the 2, other than the milky look of the pastel?
Do they both have the same/similar life span in a loop?


----------



## pompss

..


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems was at the CPI Open today yesterday were we show cased a beta 2D nano Coolant we have been working on in connection with the CPI. We showed the difference between Water cooling, Ice Dragon Cooling and the new 2D Coolant live what we are working on. We Spoke to Jaguar, BA systems and many other blue chip Companies and SME's, all of whom were impressed with what we had achieved and where we were talking the new technology. https://www.uk-cpi.com/ ,The live demo showed the drastic improvement between all 3 systems and the heat capacity removal in a live environment of the new 2D coolant which literally blew away all other forms of coolants out there on the market.



Its about time all the water cooling companies started thinking out the box and start to help move innovation forwards. Look to new tech, new tech ideas and investing in what could possibly change our world for the better instead of looking at now and the past. I feel at these events we are being ambassadors for our community and represent the wider audience what we have to offer as a community not a single company.


----------



## hitzestau

Here are some images with Blue Aurora:


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hitzestau*
> 
> Here are some images with Blue Aurora:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lovely!


----------



## Erik Barone

Hey, have anyone ever tried using mayhem glass tube? I ve been scrolling through the forum looking for a build that uses glass tube but found none so I was wondering why noone uses it. Ive done some research and found that glass has good chemical resistence, scratch resistence, and bendable and yet its weird that noone builds with it yet


----------



## shiokarai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> That looks like XT-1 clear. it should still be good as long as it wasn't stored improperly. The recommended 10-12mo change period is once it's in use but be aware that XT-1 wasn't designed for coolant temps over 36c, the biocides break down prematurely (I had a bad biological growth myself after about 4 months of 38c-41c coolant temps under load which took many hours of scrubbing and cleaning to get rid of. was using about 10% mix ratio).
> 
> Edit: Also, if not using at freezing temps I would probably use a concentration between 10% to 20% if you're intending to last a year and be aware of coolant temps.
> 
> Edit2: And I'm still waiting on the "fixed" version of XT-1, supposedly dubbed XT1 Plus. Swiftech is using it in their AIOs for awhile now. Last I heard Mayhems hadn't gotten around to bottling it for retail yet and that was over 6-8 months ago IIRC. I've only managed to obtain about 50ml of it from a Swiftech RMA but my upgraded loop needs about 1500ml of coolant...


By "fixed" do you mean XT-1 nuke? https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/xt-1-coolant/xt-1-nuke/xt-1-nuke-clear-concentrate-coolant-100ml/

From the description it seems now it does support high loop temps etc.?


----------



## shiokarai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hitzestau*
> 
> Here are some images with Blue Aurora:


soooooooo cool!























too bad it's only a showoff coolant, not your daily driver


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems was at the CPI Open today yesterday were we show cased a beta 2D nano Coolant we have been working on in connection with the CPI. We showed the difference between Water cooling, Ice Dragon Cooling and the new 2D Coolant live what we are working on. We Spoke to Jaguar, BA systems and many other blue chip Companies and SME's, all of whom were impressed with what we had achieved and where we were talking the new technology. https://www.uk-cpi.com/ ,The live demo showed the drastic improvement between all 3 systems and the heat capacity removal in a live environment of the new 2D coolant which literally blew away all other forms of coolants out there on the market.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its about time all the water cooling companies started thinking out the box and start to help move innovation forwards. Look to new tech, new tech ideas and investing in what could possibly change our world for the better instead of looking at now and the past. I feel at these events we are being ambassadors for our community and represent the wider audience what we have to offer as a community not a single company.


That is awesome!!! Really excited to give it a try when out, so far I am on number 5 of different color/fluid from you guys all have performed and worked awesome.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hitzestau*
> 
> Here are some images with Blue Aurora:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



















That stuff is beyond sexy


----------



## shiokarai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erik Barone*
> 
> Hey, have anyone ever tried using mayhem glass tube? I ve been scrolling through the forum looking for a build that uses glass tube but found none so I was wondering why noone uses it. Ive done some research and found that glass has good chemical resistence, scratch resistence, and bendable and yet its weird that noone builds with it yet


I've got a build with mayhems glass tubing (16mm OD). Glass needs A LOT of work to get it right. To cut and chamfer the edges a Dremel + Diamond Plate is a must. Safety glasses + mask also is needed (glass dust is hazardous). What I did is first I did my loop with PETG tubing and then I cut glass according to the PETG pieces. Of course glass is really hard but also breaks really easy, so many destroyed pieces is common and infuriating thing to happen







You can't bend glass with your ordinary home means, you need way too high temperature and skill to do this etc. I've just used straight pieces + a lot of 90 deg. fittings. It looks amazing and it's really worth it! But if you need to change anything in the loop - it's a major PITA and a high risk of damaging a tube (you can't just wiggle it off out of fitting, it will break). Bitspower Enhance Multi-LInk 16mm fittings are perfect fit for Mayhems 16mm glass tubing.

Some pics:


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiokarai*
> 
> I've got a build with mayhems glass tubing (16mm OD). Glass needs A LOT of work to get it right. To cut and chamfer the edges a Dremel + Diamond Plate is a must. Safety glasses + mask also is needed (glass dust is hazardous). What I did is first I did my loop with PETG tubing and then I cut glass according to the PETG pieces. Of course glass is really hard but also breaks really easy, so many destroyed pieces is common and infuriating thing to happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can't bend glass with your ordinary home means, you need way too high temperature and skill to do this etc. I've just used straight pieces + a lot of 90 deg. fittings. It looks amazing and it's really worth it! But if you need to change anything in the loop - it's a major PITA and a high risk of damaging a tube (you can't just wiggle it off out of fitting, it will break). Bitspower Enhance Multi-LInk 16mm fittings are perfect fit for Mayhems 16mm glass tubing.


I will add

Also always keep the tubing constantly wet when cutting or snapping. I wouldn't say Dremel is a must, There are other ways to chamfer glass edges. You can also use a Propane torch to melt the sharp edges. Also don't need to shape the edges for the fitting & o-ring, It will just slip in without cutting the o-ring.

Like these:




You can not approach glass like PETG or acrylic. Any kind of force will start to crack the glass, need to plan how you going to connect both sides. tricks that work for Acrylic will not always work for glass.

----

You can bend glass with a Propane torch & can make simple 90 degree bends by hand. The more complex bends will require a blowpipe.




You can also buy pre-bent 90 degree tubing from Mayhem.

I mainly used this tool for cutting my glass (allot faster & easier then dremel).


----------



## shiokarai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I will add
> 
> Also always keep the tubing constantly wet when cutting or snapping.
> 
> Any kind of force will start to crack the glass, need to plan how you going to connect both sides. t
> 
> I mainly used this tool for cutting my glass (allot faster & easier then dremel).


Good points here. Always keep a piece you're working on wet. Also applying a few drops of distilled water on the orings really helps with fittings (I just put fittings into DI then take them out for mounting). Don't use much lateral force - glass doesn't like it much







I will still say dremel is sooooo much better tool to work with glass, with diamond plate cutting and chamfering the glass is really easy. I did start with score + snap technique but it wasn't as predictable as just cutting the glass with a dremel, too many cracked pieces to my liking. What is this tool you've used? Did you bend the glass yourself? It's impressive to bend the glass yourself!







I went with just straight lines, I don't like bends.

Also it's great to use eg. blue pastel then another coolant and get perfectly clear tubes everytime - glass is practically 100% stain-resistant.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiokarai*
> 
> Good points here. Always keep a piece you're working on wet. Also applying a few drops of distilled water on the orings really helps with fittings (I just put fittings into DI then take them out for mounting). Don't use much lateral force - glass doesn't like it much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will still say dremel is sooooo much better tool to work with glass, with diamond plate cutting and chamfering the glass is really easy. I did start with score + snap technique but it wasn't as predictable as just cutting the glass with a dremel, too many cracked pieces to my liking. What is this tool you've used? Did you bend the glass yourself? It's impressive to bend the glass yourself!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with just straight lines, I don't like bends.
> 
> Also it's great to use eg. blue pastel then another coolant and get perfectly clear tubes everytime - glass is practically 100% stain-resistant.


You most likely had a junk glass cutting tool, Make sure the tubing is wet before you do the snap or it can create cracks or small imprints on the glass. I'm guessing you used Something like this:



^ That tool is horrible & doesn't even cut right.

It's just called Small Jaw Cutting Tool, I got it from a glass store.

I could have bent my own (Since I know how to do it). I just had someone else do it to save me some time. With a basic 90 degree bend, When other bends are needed I will bend it my self.


----------



## shiokarai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> You most likely had a junk glass cutting tool, Make sure the tubing is wet before you do the snap or it can create cracks or small imprints on the glass. I'm guessing you used Something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ^ That tool is horrible & doesn't even cut right.


Well, that's exactly it - I've used something like this. So it's a junk tool? Good to know. Good point about shopping in the glass store, thanks!


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erik Barone*
> 
> Hey, have anyone ever tried using mayhem glass tube? I ve been scrolling through the forum looking for a build that uses glass tube but found none so I was wondering why noone uses it. Ive done some research and found that glass has good chemical resistence, scratch resistence, and bendable and yet its weird that noone builds with it yet


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erik Barone*
> 
> Hey, have anyone ever tried using mayhem glass tube? I ve been scrolling through the forum looking for a build that uses glass tube but found none so I was wondering why noone uses it. Ive done some research and found that glass has good chemical resistence, scratch resistence, and bendable and yet its weird that noone builds with it yet


I've done a guide last year how to cut glass tubing









Although, I used Alphacool 16mm, very similar. I've used Mayhems as well.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1614167/how-to-cut-real-borosilicate-glass-tubing/0_40

I would also suggest staying away from 90 degree's. I had a mix of maybe 14 different 90 degree tubes from Mayhems and Alphacool. NONE of them were identical to the others. Some were like crazy different.
Depends on how pity you are with symmetry, mine are next to each other, so I can tell they are different very quickly.

But can higly recommend borosilicate glass! So shiny and beautiful. Gives a feeling of extreme luxury and high quality.

Very easily scratched with metal and one drop it's in 1000 pieces.


----------



## Mayhem

Our 90g Should be near perfect unless some one at QC messed up. If they did ill kick there asses !!!!!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would do glass, but my rig gets moved at least once a month for events and the Bi-annual 1300mile move from Atlanta, GA to Nantucket, MA. So far EK's ZMT has been awesome for this, but I miss the look of Hardline runs


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Our 90g Should be near perfect unless some one at QC messed up. If they did ill kick there asses !!!!!!


LOL! That's the way a enthusiast seller speaks.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Our 90g Should be near perfect unless some one at QC messed up. If they did ill kick there asses !!!!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I've done a guide last year how to cut glass tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although, I used Alphacool 16mm, very similar. I've used Mayhems as well.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1614167/how-to-cut-real-borosilicate-glass-tubing/0_40
> 
> I would also suggest staying away from 90 degree's. I had a mix of maybe 14 different 90 degree tubes from Mayhems and Alphacool. NONE of them were identical to the others. Some were like crazy different.
> Depends on how pity you are with symmetry, mine are next to each other, so I can tell they are different very quickly.
> 
> But can higly recommend borosilicate glass! So shiny and beautiful. Gives a feeling of extreme luxury and high quality.
> 
> Very easily scratched with metal and one drop it's in 1000 pieces.


I have bends from from hand made to mayhems own 90 degree bends. both are 100% the same.

---

That all depends on the type of glass your using, there is scratch resistance glass. So far all my mayhem glass I have gotten I have not scratched at all. I have dropped a few pieces on metal & others have rolled off my case onto bottom part of my case.

PETG & acrylic can also easily to scratch.


----------



## Mayhem

Update 2D Nano coolant.

Last Thursday Mayhems show cased our beta New 2D Atomic level nano Coolant to many blue chip companies including Jaguar, BAE to name but a few. We were asked to show case the fluids we have been working on with CPI (uk - https://twitter.com/ukcpi?lang=en) and took 3 live systems running Water, IDC and Mayhems new 2D nano coolant. All the systems were calibrated to the same level with pumps, fans and CPUs and GPUs all running as close as we could get (with in a 5% margin of error). The new 2D nano coolant under live testing obliterated water and IDC in live testing for thermal efficacy and wowed a lot of industry blue chip companies. So much so that we are now starting to move further forwards to our aims of not just staying in the PC liquid cooling market. Our R&D work is far beyond any thing any one has ever attempted with water based liquid coolants. 'Im glad to say we "think" we are the first ever company to attempt this level of cooling with a 2D Graphene type Atomic manipulated liquid cooling.

We have been invited to several Uni's now to go see how we can move forwards and what areas we may be able to move into with there help. They are all so looking to do some White paper research on our work. A new era of cooling is on its way ......

What i would like to say is a *Big Thank You!* to all our supporters, users and buyers. With out you guys and girls investing your hard earned money in us we would have never been able to do this. With your help we are going to try and push the boundaries even further like never before. These are truly exciting times for us all here at Mayhems. I am totally proud of the liquid cooling community and support we have been afford from you all.

For those wondering how cutting edge this is - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Two-dimensional_materials


----------



## spyui

hello Mayhem community !! This is my first time posting here and I have a few questions to ask if you guys don't mind. My first question is why is mayhem blitz pro sold out everywhere in the US ? Is it necessary to clean the system with mayhem blitz before using mayhem pastel ? While the mayhem blitz is sold out , what is other alternative way to prep my system before put in the pastel. I don't want the coolant to change color after several months due to unclean system. My system have been running with distill water + PT nuke .


----------



## DarthBaggins

It's highly recommended, or to flush in a similar manner as the Blitz kits recommend


----------



## spyui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It's highly recommended, or to flush in a similar manner as the Blitz kits recommend


Thank for your swiftly response but mayhem blitz pro is sold out everywhere in the US and i don't know when it will be back in stock ,mean while I have to complete my loop this weekend. What is the other way to prep my system without Mayhem blitz ?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know alot of MicroCenter locations carry them too. I used a white vinegar (2 capfuls)+ warm distilled in my initial rad flushes then used blitz basic.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyui*
> 
> hello Mayhem community !! This is my first time posting here and I have a few questions to ask if you guys don't mind. My first question is why is mayhem blitz pro sold out everywhere in the US ? Is it necessary to clean the system with mayhem blitz before using mayhem pastel ? While the mayhem blitz is sold out , what is other alternative way to prep my system before put in the pastel. I don't want the coolant to change color after several months due to unclean system. My system have been running with distill water + PT nuke .


It's not, There plenty of places that have them instock.

Full Kit: https://modmymods.com/mayhems-blitz-pro-cleaning-system.html
Basic Kit: https://modmymods.com/mayhems-blitz-basic-cleaning-system.html


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyui*
> 
> Thank for your swiftly response but mayhem blitz pro is sold out everywhere in the US and i don't know when it will be back in stock ,mean while I have to complete my loop this weekend. What is the other way to prep my system without Mayhem blitz ?


PPCS has it in stock also
http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-blitz-part-one-only.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-blitz-part-two-only.html


----------



## latexyankee

Wanted to redo my loop this weekend but theres a catch.

I have 1 liter worth of EK pastel concentrate and half a bottle of Mayhems pastel concentrate. I would need to mix these together to provide enough coolant for my loop.

I've been told EK is rebranded Mayhems...would this be ok to mix?


----------



## emsj86

Yes it would


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> Wanted to redo my loop this weekend but theres a catch.
> 
> I have 1 liter worth of EK pastel concentrate and half a bottle of Mayhems pastel concentrate. I would need to mix these together to provide enough coolant for my loop.
> 
> I've been told EK is rebranded Mayhems...would this be ok to mix?


Only EK's Evo series is re-branded, I'm not sure if EK had Mayhem add any other chemicals to the mix or if it's straight up 1:1 copy of there coolants. Might want to send them an E-mail to see if you can mix the two.


----------



## Craigk19

@mayhem are y'all worried about the new Primochill Vue fluid that jayztwocents is showing off right now? From a pure aesthetic view point it has my interest and I was 100% going mayhems green pastel for my build. Still leaning mayhems but the Vue looks pretty awesome and no fallout.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigk19*
> 
> @mayhem are y'all worried about the new Primochill Vue fluid that jayztwocents is showing off right now? From a pure aesthetic view point it has my interest and I was 100% going mayhems green pastel for my build. Still leaning mayhems but the Vue looks pretty awesome and no fallout.


The big problem with Vue is it isn't out yet last time I checked.


----------



## Mayhem

Why would we be worried, that is a very stupid statement! Mayhems loves there idea of improving and wishes them all the best, Only an idiot would think there is an issue especially some one with nothing better to do.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> @mayhem are y'all worried about the new Primochill Vue fluid that jayztwocents is showing off right now? From a pure aesthetic view point it has my interest and I was 100% going mayhems green pastel for my build. Still leaning mayhems but the Vue looks pretty awesome and no fallout.


Let's just say, instead of looking at newcomers with new product as a potential competition, look at this from positive view of business.

If that new product fails or doesn't deliver what is suppose to, there will be more fall back and more appraise to someone like Mayhems and if he's working hard and delivers what people want than there is nothing to worry about.

From what I see a ton of people love Mayhems product myself included


----------



## VSG

Until I see an MSDS of a new coolant, I won't use or recommend it. That's basically my stance.


----------



## Shoggoth

Question for Mayhems:

I'm planning to build my first custom loop, in fact my first water cooling set-up ever, and I thought I'd use Norprene tubing and XT-1 Nuke concentrate. I sent a mail a while back asking if XT-1 Nuke is compatible with Norprene, but I never got an answer, so I thought I'd try here. So, any problems with that combo? I assume there's none, since ZMT is listed as compatible and Norprene is just a higher specced version of EPDM rubber, but I thought it best to ask.

Secondly: given that Norprene is extremely non-reactive to anything involved in water cooling and the description of XT-1 Nuke states a 5 year system life, would I be justified in leaving the loop in situ for a few years without worrying? Unless it starts acting up of course. Generally all my rigs have run 24/7/365 from build to scrap heap, with the exception of shut-downs for GPU and drive swaps, and I'd really like to think the same thing might be possible with a water loop too if I go with Norprene and XT-1 Nuke.

In case it makes a difference I will be running Blitz Basic for 24h before sticking the loop in the case, both to clean it and to be sure there are no leaks.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Go with EK ZMT for your tubing.


----------



## Ascendic

Finally finished stripping and rebuilding my rig after Aurora fail.



Spoiler: More sexyness


----------



## Craigk19

Didn't mean to offend anyone if I did. I still fully plan on using mayhems personally for my build, pastel uv green. They have a long history of nothing but good things. And according to up coming products only looks to continue getting better and beating the competition! This is just the first product I've seen that I would slightly consider other than mayhems. I just wanted to see what mayhems thought about it was all, as well as a few others thoughts. The no fall out is the very eye catching because I've been mesmerized by aurora since the first time I ever saw it.


----------



## Paopawdecarabao

Hi, almost done with my build. Currently I've used the XT1 UV green concentrate. The Color is a bit yellow and doesn't react with uv light. Why so?

I am planning to add a UV laser green dye to it. Would it work? ty


----------



## Shoggoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Go with EK ZMT for your tubing.


How is it superior to Norprene?


----------



## DarthBaggins

It's completely compatible with Mayhems fluids


----------



## Shoggoth

That I knew, but when ZMT and Norprene are both the same kind of EPDM rubber except for Norprene being higher specced, why should I go with ZMT?


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Why would we be worried, that is a very stupid statement! Mayhems loves there idea of improving and wishes them all the best, Only an idiot would think there is an issue especially some one with nothing better to do.


Really harsh reply to a customer that was only asking your thoughts on a competitor's product. No need to insult them and then call their question stupid.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Really harsh reply to a customer that was only asking your thoughts on a competitor's product. No need to insult them and then call their question stupid.


I'm guessing he didn't meant it that way and just takes great proud on his products. I attribute this to wrong sentence construction, more than anything else.


----------



## war4peace

Alcohol too, I'd wager, especially when saying "Only an idiot would...".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggoth*
> 
> That I knew, but when ZMT and Norprene are both the same kind of EPDM rubber except for Norprene being higher specced, why should I go with ZMT?


Because ZMT is tested and confirmed, Norprene isn't. But don't let that stop you, feel free to experiment - we just recommend what we know for sure works.


----------



## Shoggoth

Roger that, and I do appreciate it. I was hoping for an official yes, no or no idea from Mayhems though, since I can't seem to get an answer to emails.


----------



## ashwinp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascendic*
> 
> Finally finished stripping and rebuilding my rig after Aurora fail.


What happened. Did you use it long ?


----------



## Ascendic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ashwinp*
> 
> What happened. Did you use it long ?


Coolant ran clear after a few weeks, particles settled and clogged up the cpu jet plate and pretty much any hole or crack they could find including behind o-rings. I read all the warnings and knew fully that there was a good chance it wouldn't work. Was worth a shot anyway...stuff looks amazing but I wasn't counting on it being such a nightmare to clean out. I had to dismantle all the blocks and clean them by hand and it was even stuck to the acrylic tube walls.


----------



## ashwinp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascendic*
> 
> Coolant ran clear after a few weeks, particles settled and clogged up the cpu jet plate and pretty much any hole or crack they could find including behind o-rings. I read all the warnings and knew fully that there was a good chance it wouldn't work. Was worth a shot anyway...stuff looks amazing but I wasn't counting on it being such a nightmare to clean out. I had to dismantle all the blocks and clean them by hand and it was even stuck to the acrylic tube walls.


Yeah i remember when i first saw it i thought it was amazing and then i read it is only meant as a show not to be used long term and i felt sad.

Anyways i think Primochill VUE Coolant might be the real deal that we could use long term as a daily driver. Waiting for people to long term that and give their inputs. I know JAyz2cents has done it on his channel but id love to hear from other normal users.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems site will be down from Thursday for a few days for maintenance and upgrades. Our support site www.mayhems.net will not longer be available, the new site will be diffrent. We will "not" be moving accounts over to new site as we are starting afresh.


----------



## 414347

*This is for future reference to anyone who is curious about Mayhems Biocide Extreme and its effectiveness. Sometime you might be curious and search net for that info and reference to it and really, there is no info, so hopefully this will become in some of help.*

I've been using Mayhems Biocide for a few years now and I think this is by far the best anti-algae product there is.

Normally I would change Distilled water every 3-6 months but overtime I've seen how effective this product is so I decided to change the liquid every 12 months, especially with this size of the loops, it takes ages to bleed, so by 6 month there is no bubbles in my loops and system is dead silent.

This is 11th month of distilled with Biocide. Initially I mix 1 drop of Biocide per 1L of distilled water and then I add single drop of Biocide to each (approximately each loop 1.5L) every 2 months to make sure that Biocide keeps on working.




Water looks crystal clear, there is dust on reservoir and everywhere else, but trust me its pure clear, the Biocide does phenomenal job.

In fact, there are some photos in earlier thread where I took my waterblocks apart to see how well the Biocide held and I believe after a year of constant 24/7 hard work as I don't baby my system, it's pure workstation that works around the clock the blocks and the whole system was as clean is the day I filled.

I used nuke way back, it was OK but after while you could see the blue and yellowish tint of the water, Mayhems Biocide keeps water absolutely crystal clear.

Thanks Mayhems


----------



## Barefooter

^ Nice report @NewUser16! Good to see it's working well.

Those big reservoirs look awesome too


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> ^ Nice report @NewUser16! Good to see it's working well.
> 
> Those big reservoirs look awesome too thumb.gif


Thanks I appreciate that


----------



## Mayhem

Hi all, exciting news, Our new website will be going live in the next 48 hours.Please note that due to propagation the site will be down for this period, all sales and general enquiries, please email sales
at mayhems dot co dot uk


----------



## Mayhem

Excuse Any emails you may have gotten from mayhems shop in the next 24 hours we have a glitch were its sending out emails that should not be going out from past orders.

Mick is currently on the floor having a hart attack as 7,000 emails have just shot out.

this is due to the migration Wizard messing up.


----------



## djnsmith7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Excuse Any emails you may have gotten from mayhems shop in the next 24 hours we have a glitch were its sending out emails that should not be going out from past orders.
> 
> Mick is currently on the floor having a hart attack as 7,000 emails have just shot out.


Thanks for pointing out the glitch. I thought that might have been what happened, but I sent off an email and PM just in case.


----------



## 414347

That is coincident. I just got an email from Mayhems website purchasing something I have never seen I guess that would explain


----------



## 414347

just got another one but this time it was something I was looking at the other day I hope this wasn't sent to me I actually didn't make the purchase


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh dont worry nothing has been purchased ... the shop isnt even live.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Excuse Any emails you may have gotten from mayhems shop in the next 24 hours we have a glitch were its sending out emails that should not be going out from past orders.
> 
> Mick is currently on the floor having a hart attack as 7,000 emails have just shot out.
> 
> this is due to the migration Wizard messing up.


Ok, I was about to come in here & ask about an E-mail I just got. If you did send it out you don't have my any of billing info. I would have gotten some free items


----------



## Mayhem

Im currently on there support line who are all in bed ..... even though its 24/7 support


----------



## 3m3k

Thank God!! i Almost got a heart attack as well. Thought i got h4cked again. Got the order emails but the shipping details were not mine...
I'm in Ireland but got someones full details on the mail - full name and shipping address in Maple Ridge BC v4r 2w7, Canada
Got 2 mails in total with the same shipping details - 2 different order numbers


----------



## war4peace

You really got someone else's data in your e-mail? Holy... that's a serious issue.


----------



## 3m3k

Yep...i guess db migration is not going well...just hope that no one will get mine...


----------



## 414347

I didn't think at first but just like I got someones full name and their complete address someone will get mine...that's not good, not good at all








darn it


----------



## war4peace

Yes that is a big security issue.


----------



## Arkheios

Received like 5x "_Your order has been completed. Thank you for choosing us._" mails from Mayhem within the last 6 hours.
The last time I purchased anything from Mayhem was January last year. The mails all contain my information.

I hope my information hasn't been sent to others


----------



## Mayhem

What happen'd was a few years ago some one messed up our data base and removed a line of code, all address were moved up one space (3 years ago). It was supposed to have be sorted how ever when we migrated this little mistake reared its ugly head and messed up all the data.

Secondly the sales staff had been processing orders, when they did they they only clicked on a "sent / posted" button, they never closed the sale off or for filled it. When we migrated across to the new system it thought all the orders had not been for filled and sent out emails to every one (little did we know at the time).

Its been a big head ace but now all sorted.

Once the new system goes live ill advise every one to jump on, update there address and change passwords (just in case).

Some people thought we had been hacked! it was simply a migration error and these things happen.


----------



## jstr

If I do a leak test of a new system with distilled water, is it fine to just add Pastel White Concentrate to the reservoir and let the system do the mixing job, or should I empty the loop and mix outside? The mixing ration is not an issue, as I can note, how much distilled water I put in for the leak test...


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> What happen'd was a few years ago some one messed up our data base and removed a line of code, all address were moved up one space (3 years ago). It was supposed to have be sorted how ever when we migrated this little mistake reared its ugly head and messed up all the data.
> 
> Secondly the sales staff had been processing orders, when they did they they only clicked on a "sent / posted" button, they never closed the sale off or for filled it. When we migrated across to the new system it thought all the orders had not been for filled and sent out emails to every one (little did we know at the time).
> 
> Its been a big head ace but now all sorted.
> 
> Once the new system goes live ill advise every one to jump on, update there address and change passwords (just in case).
> 
> Some people thought we had been hacked! it was simply a migration error and these things happen.


I would understand these errors, I really do but I can't help but think about the information security issue that got out. That is pretty serious like what others pointed out.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> I would understand these errors, I really do but I can't help but think about the information security issue that got out. That is pretty serious like what others pointed out.


Honestly! this will be hard for me to digest. My system, at least I'm trying to keep it as protected and safe as can be knowing today's words corrupted minds and dirty intentions.

I run hardware and software firewall and everything runs through sandbox that gets deleted each time I close either my browser or system so when this happens that breaches a lot of security

I'm disappointed, even mad a bit, but lets hope that this will go away and our info didn't end up in someone's hands who has evil mind, there are just bad fox out there unfortunately


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arkheios*
> 
> Received like 5x "_Your order has been completed. Thank you for choosing us._" mails from Mayhem within the last 6 hours.
> The last time I purchased anything from Mayhem was January last year. The mails all contain my information.
> 
> I hope my information hasn't been sent to others


This also just happened to me over an order I placed last april.


----------



## Mayhem

The new system is now all sorted. I've spent the last 72 hours up and going though every thing manually one by one. We have new security in place and a better more secure shop.

Once we have gone live we are offering up a 20% discount on "all" products using code : W058BM9X3VPR Once per customer.

If you cannot order for shipping reasons, use our contact sales and we will manual for fill the order and update shipping options (this will take time as we all learn the new systems and security measurements that are now in place).

Again accept our sincerest apologies on this matter. We have been straight up front with you all as always and will keep you updated with any new information. We have 2 IT database pros looking before we set off and no one saw this coming and it didn't happen on the test runs.


----------



## ckoons1

LINK?


----------



## Mayhem

Sorry i cannot post links, its against the rules.


----------



## Shoggoth

Google has no suggestions other than the old address. A link to the new site from the old one, rather than just "Closed" sign, would have been a good idea I think.


----------



## Eagle2508

The new coolant sounds very interesting! Do you have an approximate release date for your new coolant? Will it be in 2017....


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Store is now live over at www.mayhems.net till mayhems.co.uk is working again (were having issues moving the site over).

Use Discount code *W058BM9X3VPR* for a 20% discount as a way of us saying sorry for the mistakes over the last few days. It will be active till DEC 1st (00:00 UK Time)
You can only use the code once and it will discount the entire order.

If this is against the rules please remove.

Mick


----------



## 414347

What happen to the shipping prices? I want to get Blitz Basic and some Biocide Extreme and the shipping comes to 25 Euros, that's more than double what I normally would pay.

I get the same thing every few months and the shipping would come to between 8-9, that's not good, especially fro a small parcel like that, actually shipping is more than my items


----------



## Mayhem

please contact [email protected], were working on shipping slowly, we have a lot to go though. we lost all shipping when we moved across :/. Please dont forget though we always subsidise shipping prices, you paid less than it actually cost us.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> please contact [email protected], were working on shipping slowly, we have a lot to go though. we lost all shipping when we moved across :/. Please dont forget though we always subsidise shipping prices, you paid less than it actually cost us.


I did send them email earlier today.

Thank you


----------



## 414347

Thanks Mick for fixing it


----------



## Eusbwoa18

toolmaker03 in the forum post linked below seems to indicate that all UV coolants in his experience cause issues. I'm interested in the experiences that others have had as I am building a new system and had planned to use some X1 UV reactive fluid.

The results in the link are indicative of some fairly severe corrosion so I have a hard time believing that it's just the X1 that caused it but then again I have no experience with the UV reactive fluids.

Mick I know you are probably slammed right now but I would appreciate your input when you get a chance.

Thanks in advance!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1641192/mayhems-x1/10


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> toolmaker03 in the forum post linked below seems to indicate that all UV coolants in his experience cause issues. I'm interested in the experiences that others have had as I am building a new system and had planned to use some X1 UV reactive fluid.
> 
> The results in the link are indicative of some fairly severe corrosion so I have a hard time believing that it's just the X1 that caused it but then again I have no experience with the UV reactive fluids.
> 
> Mick I know you are probably slammed right now but I would appreciate your input when you get a chance.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1641192/mayhems-x1/10


Isn't that the same person who ranted for months on the Supremacy EVO block having a "design flaw"? And he wouldn't listen to anyone else trying to point out errors or trying to help (even those with years of testing/reviewing experience). No thanks.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> toolmaker03 in the forum post linked below seems to indicate that all UV coolants in his experience cause issues. I'm interested in the experiences that others have had as I am building a new system and had planned to use some X1 UV reactive fluid.
> 
> The results in the link are indicative of some fairly severe corrosion so I have a hard time believing that it's just the X1 that caused it but then again I have no experience with the UV reactive fluids.
> 
> Mick I know you are probably slammed right now but I would appreciate your input when you get a chance.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1641192/mayhems-x1/10


It doesn't in my experience, I'm still using UV Blue coolant and havn't run into any kind of issues. My new build will be using XT-1 Nuke UV Blue.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> toolmaker03


Just don't listen to him. He has lots of money to spend on watercooling parts but not backed up by a leveled head or good knowledge.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> toolmaker03 in the forum post linked below seems to indicate that all UV coolants in his experience cause issues. I'm interested in the experiences that others have had as I am building a new system and had planned to use some X1 UV reactive fluid.
> 
> The results in the link are indicative of some fairly severe corrosion so I have a hard time believing that it's just the X1 that caused it but then again I have no experience with the UV reactive fluids.
> 
> Mick I know you are probably slammed right now but I would appreciate your input when you get a chance.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1641192/mayhems-x1/10


I've had Mayhems Pastel Extreme White with Mayhems UV Clear Blue dye added to it and it's been running fine for over 10 months now without any flushes and adding new coolant. I do add UV Clear Blue dye every so often when it fades after a couple of months.

I drained my coolant a while back to add in my new GPU, but filled it back with the same coolant.

No issues at all. No staining, no blockage, nothing.

Couple of my mates use X1 and haven't had any issues at all. So I doubt you should take him serious, imho.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Can't wait to get my goodies from you guys @Mayhem
Also realized I forgot to use the coupon code lol


----------



## Mayhem

Nooooooooooooooo. Did you use paypal or create a shop account. PM me and ill see what i can do.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> toolmaker03 in the forum post linked below seems to indicate that all UV coolants in his experience cause issues. I'm interested in the experiences that others have had as I am building a new system and had planned to use some X1 UV reactive fluid.
> 
> The results in the link are indicative of some fairly severe corrosion so I have a hard time believing that it's just the X1 that caused it but then again I have no experience with the UV reactive fluids.
> 
> Mick I know you are probably slammed right now but I would appreciate your input when you get a chance.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1641192/mayhems-x1/10


All questions are good questions.

UV Dye will never effect you coolant when they are added to a coolant as ours are PH balanced, Some companies claim they use fluid dyes, which means they know nothing about dyes what so ever. Simple fact is all dyes are made from powders that are either man made or are natural. They may buy the dye pre done for them as a liquid but the base was still a powder base they were created from. The main advantage with our dyes is we adjust them and coat them to be more PH stable then and this is because we fully understand the issues you all come across. We know from the past and from some of the stuff that is being spouted off by up and coming companies they think diffrent but yet again its simply because they do not understand or know and they buy direct from companies who do not tell them (trade secrets ect ect).

Dyes do not effect hardware but other chemicals in the system can depending on what they are. Our X1 range and Pastel Range are the most PH stable products on the market and one of the least damaging fluids. our XT-1 range is strong but again has the ability to with stand a larger range of PH then X1 does. What always must be remembered is we have no control what so ever over bad qc from other companies.


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Thanks for all of the responses. I always prefer to ask questions to dismiss F.U.D. rather than make assumptions.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Nooooooooooooooo. Did you use paypal or create a shop account. PM me and ill see what i can do.


Not worried about it (just means make another order lol), Goodies arrived this morning (Go FedEx on speed) and looks like I got a extra goodie of Blitz pt.2 & XT1 Clear concentrate

Also can't wait to paint the Havoc 240mm, beast of a rad


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Also can't wait to paint the Havoc 240mm, beast of a rad


Yap, my nephew got 2 of the Havoc and 1 of Darkside, he said the Havoc is like an army tank very solid and good performing rad, unfortunately the darkside he said is much cheaper build, looks cheep, he sold it for half price to his friend who doesn't like it either


----------



## DarthBaggins

The Darkside rads are actually very good performing rads. Wish the 360 Havoc rads were an option


----------



## Mayhem

Wait for the future ppl, wait for the future as you may never know what it may hold.


----------



## XandrTV

Do the Blitz Kits have a shelf life or can they be stored for any amount of time before being used?

I bought mine about a year ago and due to life getting in the way, I haven't actually done my water cooling build yet. Things are looking much better now and I want to make sure the stuff hasn't gone bad when I start my build later this month.


----------



## Eagle2508

Any further details on your new coolant? Will it be this year or more likely next year before it’s available to buy?


----------



## Mayhem

were going to patent it first.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XandrTV*
> 
> Do the Blitz Kits have a shelf life or can they be stored for any amount of time before being used?
> 
> I bought mine about a year ago and due to life getting in the way, I haven't actually done my water cooling build yet. Things are looking much better now and I want to make sure the stuff hasn't gone bad when I start my build later this month.


There is no shelf life with them.


----------



## Eagle2508

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> were going to patent it first.


So definitely 2018 before its released for consumers?


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems is going though some massive changes and we will announce news if they happen. Atm the new coolant is working well. We have a few small issues i need to iron out. However all this has taken a back seat while i work on some internal stuff that needs doing first. (old issue of one pair of hands how ever if this all goes well mayhems will be for the better for it).


----------



## IVLIANVS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle2508*
> 
> So definitely 2018 before its released for consumers?


I think someone is giving the gov a lot of undue credit in that statement.









I don't know the details of the law, but doesn't a "patent pending" statement protect you during the application process and allow you to begin getting a return on the R&D investment costs?


----------



## pmarascal

So my Mayhems Red pastel is starting to turn a darker blood red eventually will brown I assume. It's only been about 2 weeks in my system, each part was taken apart and clean, rads were flushed many times, and I ran a pre-treatment for 8 hours.

What should be my action plan here? Will I need to totally disassemble and clean/flush again? Or should I drain, flush out with distilled, and then perhaps leave distilled until I can get another blitz kit ordered and delivered?

Is it worth it to contact Mayhems about if I possibly got one of these 'old troubled batches' or should I leave it be and assume I missed something during my initial rad washes? That damn hardwarelabs radiator came out blue when I flushed with vinegar twice, it was very dirty with particles but I flushed/shook around it 10+ times.

I don't have water temp sensors, but my overall temps remained below 65/60 during 12 hour stress tests/mining runs, so I feel like it wasn't due to hot fluid (have 2x360 rads in a simple 1700/1070 loop).

I was literally just telling people not to worry about using Pastel if they flush correctly... Derp


----------



## 414347

Hardware Labs rads are among the cleanest rads, yes you will still have some dirt coming out of them but "Vinegar"







man when ppl will learn, vinegar is very acidy and even thou you will flash it ton of times, you might still have some left and if that gets mixed in your loop..well.

Honestly you be better of just use hot water and shake the heck of the rad dozen times, that's what I did before knowing that blitz was available


----------



## Mayhem

I cannot go into to much detail yet as were in talks and there are a lot of changes going on and some of them very big changes. I'm very much stuck in limbo for the moment in answering some questions, real sorry.

Mick


----------



## pmarascal

So whats to blame aside, what should be my course of action for my fluid thats changing color? It's turning from red to purple, so not really a brown algae like I thought. Should I flush it with distilled and leave distilled in until I can blitz, or has stuff likely settled into my blocks already (~1.5 weeks) and it'll need a full tear-down already?

On a side note, I am super intrigued by the new 'Vue' coolant. But a lot of warnings about 'results may vary' will make me wait awhile to see how it holds up to the general population, and I'm also thinking that the look might get 'old' fast.. I've been waiting for Vue forever, but there's something about a nice simple beautiful pastel that just looks great IMO.


----------



## 414347

It's hard to tell what would cause the discoloration really, but I know year or so ago my nephew had yellow pastel and he had no issue for months while others were complaining.

One thing those guys who had issues shared in common, they used either vinegar or just hot water to clean their radiators








If you run only DI in your loop you can get away with stuff like that, but exotic colors that are sensitive to PH and temps are need to be prepped carefully.

What I would suggest is to get Blitz 1 & 2 and follow the instructions and from my personal experience, blitz is wonderful product, but you need to flush it afterwards several times to make sure nothing of the Blitz is left than fill the loop with your coolant and see how that works than


----------



## pmarascal

I'm gonna see if I have any PH Tests around for shhs and giggles, Mayhems I can PM you what I find if you guys are looking for that info. I'm assuming it's gonna be a bit high/low from spec which caused the changes. Should the ideal PH inside the loop be exactly neutral or...?

Just wanted to restate that I'm not going anywhere - I've always used Mayhem Pastels and this is the first 'problem' I've had. Nothing replicates the clean beautiful look of a pastel, and I wouldn't WC if not to get the exact 'look' I want. There's a bunch of things I'll redo more carefully, most likely it'll be on my end anyways. I guess I got careless after the first few worked so effortlessly.

After leaving for another few days while out of town, it's actually a decent grape purple color.. which if not for the red sleeving I would enjoy haha! Just hoping I don't end up wasting 2 or 3 bottles of red concentrate before I figure out the problem.


----------



## ckoons1

going to use mayhems blitz # 1 on my radiators. wondering if i need to do mayhems blitz 2 if my blocks are new

or should I just do the entire loop to make sure part 1 is completely gone?


----------



## Eagle2508

I really wouldn’t use Part 1 in anywhere but your radiators..... don’t let it go near your pump or blocks


----------



## ckoons1

oh no wasn't planning on doing part 1 on entire loop.just the radiators but the blocks are new do i need to do part two if the blocks are new?


----------



## Eagle2508

It would do no harm, it’ll just make sure they are squeaky clean


----------



## ckoons1

works for me

thank you


----------



## 414347

Run pat#1 in Radiators for # of hours flash it very well. Put your system together than run Part#2 through the whole thing for 12 hours than flash it several times and your loop will be very well prepared


----------



## ckoons1

am I correct in thinking it is ok to re use my old tubing after using the mayhems blitz part 2 ?

thank you

p.s i know this is a stupid question but I would rather be safe the sorry. THX


----------



## 414347

No questions are stupid









There is nothing wrong with reusing old tubes, but make sure they are in OK shape e.g. inspect for any sign of cracks, some flex tubing might not be tolerable to stronger solvents and Mayhems Blitz#2 it's like shampoo on steroids.

If they were already in stage of releasing plasticizer I would change them, you will know this cloudy discoloration, at that point nothing will bring the clarity of them .

Tbh. If you on budget than that's OK to reuse them but If you can spare few $ for new tubing it would be preferable to change them after all blitz is gone through them.

I run hard tubing so there is no side effect on any part of the system, but how flex tubing will react to Blitz#2 after all I can't tell, it might speed up leaching of plasticizer later on, shoot Mayhems PM he will have better idea.


----------



## ckoons1

THANK YOU


----------



## 414347

Any time


----------



## ckoons1

one final question pleas

can mayhems blitz part 1 be reused on a second radiator ? i have two 480s

maybe 8 hours for the first one and 12 for the 2nd ?

thx

question answered . thank you


----------



## Mayhem

Some news for you all.

Mayhems is now fully owned by Mick (me) as Steve has retired from the company, with the new responsibility i've taken on ill no longer have much time to carry on posting on here. It will be very few and far between times when i do. Our new site is being built up slowly (not only with new content but new products) and will answer most of your questions there. You'll see i've had the "Company Rep" bit removed from my nick on here for this reason (i'm not a rep i own the whole company i feel there is a massive difference and i like to be honest.).

If you need my direct help or my support staffs help please hit up our site or Facebook group and we will do our best to help you from there. I wouldn't bother sending me any PMs on here as i simply do not have the time at the moment to view them (sorry).

I would like to say and big thank you to every one here and i mean every one, You are a great bunch of people and its good to see people with in this thread being reasonable and responsable and not trolling users who are leaning the hobby. Keep up the good work as you guys are all the future of water cooling and with out you companies like mine would not be around. Best of all its good to see changes were companies are not being trashed for mistakes but being helped to solve issues and advance this hobby.

See you all around some time.

Michael Wood
Director / Not a chemical Engineer, Bloody good tea boy still.

P.S Black Friday is coming, keep you eye out for sales from us... you'll be surprised at the discount we will be offering.


----------



## 414347

To bad Steve is no longer working with you. I personally and I'm sure many people relay a lot on forum as I don't and never will use Facebook or any social media.

Good luck with being sole owner of Mayhems and hopefully this change of not having the extra help wont effect your business in any negative way.
Good Luck


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Keep it rolling Mick!!

TCO


----------



## DarthBaggins

Congrats on having full ownership status of your company, means alot to clients/customers to get real attention and help from the owner himself. Keep making a good product and we'll keep using it


----------



## Barefooter

Congrats Mick! I thought you were the owner anyway









Looking forward to seeing some new coolants. A nice clear red please


----------



## pmarascal

Congrats, it's exciting for you! I know there has been some odd 'discussions' around over the last years about troubleshooting problems with certain dyes. Just wanted to say Mayhems is still held as _the_ go-to for watercooling coolant and dyes, looking forward to whatever comes in the future!

On a side note; Is Mayhems a small company? Info is hard to come across in the US, so a nice website reboot will be appreciated!


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems is tiny in comparison to every one else. Considering our size since birth it started with two directors me and steve with my partner in crime helping me all the way and sticking with me though thick and thin. We the only company how has made 95% of our own products not relying on OEMs to make them for us. All fluids made by Mayhems and our dyes are hand made by my self (yes every single one of them). We have stayed small and unique for over 9 years now how ever if you check out the new site you'll see we have grown quite a bit, the site is still under construction but is growing. We soon will be offering a wider range of products on our site as we gear up to take on more water cooling stock by other companies. This all will be stock we have on hand not drop shipped. We will only sell products i would use my self. I am now looking to take on staff locally so that we can handle the massive works loads me and my partner have endured for quite a while and share the load a little more.

Were still working on the new 2d Nano Coolant and we have also improved the Aurora formulae how ever news on that will come soon. Were just holding back a bit to see how the market changes over the next few months. We are all so looking prices on some products to mix up the pot little more.







i love stirring things up a little.

So keep an eye out and as said wtch for the black friday deals, even PPC's is going stir up the pot a little for us with some thing no one else can or will offer.


----------



## Eagle2508

Is there any other info that you can give us on the new Aurora please.... how are you improving it, life span? All I've used so far is Mayhems coolants, I would love to keep it that way


----------



## DarthBaggins

The new Aurora is supposed to be a longer use vs show use only.


----------



## Mayhem

We have used the same tech were using on the new nano fluid to improve the positive layers around the particles so they lift and stay up longer. All so we have stripped some of the layers down and are close to a 2d nano particle but cannot go to far as you lose its reflective behaviour, we would rather keep it also in a micron range in length not width but close to 2d on depth. The reason they are on hold is were working with CPI on a patent to stop others trying to copy the process we will be using as it will all so done to the new aurora.


----------



## Rainmaker91

So I have a quick question. I just bought some Mayhems UV White Tubing from PPCs, and seeing as they messed up my first order (not really and issue, as I got 10ft of some kind of clear tubing which hopefully is the ultra clear) I'm still not sure if what I got is the correct. The pictures I have seen of these show them having what I assume is a black coating on the inside of the tubing, but seeing as the new tubing I got doesn't have this I'm questioning if it really is Mayhems white tubing. I'm willing to give PPCs the benefit of the doubt here, as I could very well be seeing things that are not there.

Anyone have any input?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> So I have a quick question. I just bought some Mayhems UV White Tubing from PPCs, and seeing as they messed up my first order (not really and issue, as I got 10ft of some kind of clear tubing which hopefully is the ultra clear) I'm still not sure if what I got is the correct. The pictures I have seen of these show them having what I assume is a black coating on the inside of the tubing, but seeing as the new tubing I got doesn't have this I'm questioning if it really is Mayhems white tubing. I'm willing to give PPCs the benefit of the doubt here, as I could very well be seeing things that are not there.
> 
> Anyone have any input?


The tubing should be white inside and out.


----------



## pompss

Any suggestion on a strong blue UV coolant?? I tried pastel white uv and i add dye uv but the uv died after one day and now day light instead white the pastel look yellowish.
Considering removing the coolant , washing with blitz and replacing it with clear uv blue. Any suggestion on a strong uv coolant?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> The tubing should be white inside and out.


Great, then I'm sure they got the correct one. Given that the first one was wrong I just wanted to make sure I wasn't stuck with something like Advanced LRT.


----------



## 1911Savage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Any suggestion on a strong blue UV coolant?? I tried pastel white uv and i add dye uv but the uv died after one day and now day light instead white the pastel look yellowish.
> Considering removing the coolant , washing with blitz and replacing it with clear uv blue. Any suggestion on a strong uv coolant?


The only luck I've had with UV fluids is with green. But I like blue so I've used UV blue & UV clear blue and they always lose their UV reaction after only a day or two.

I've about decided to give up on UV and just go with whatever color I want and some good lighting.

I don't want to dump on Mayhems but I may try a different brand of UV fluids before I completely give up.


----------



## Revan654

Question One:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pompss*
> 
> Any suggestion on a strong blue UV coolant?? I tried pastel white uv and i add dye uv but the uv died after one day and now day light instead white the pastel look yellowish.
> Considering removing the coolant , washing with blitz and replacing it with clear uv blue. Any suggestion on a strong uv coolant?


Make sure your using a proper UV lighting first of all. I personal favor UVA with wavelength in 395 to 405nm.



My UV Lighting which is UVA and Blacklight enabled. I had to do my own soldering, Sleeving & Crimping.



I suggest using X1 or XT-1 Nuke, This bottles is years old from X1 series and it still holds a good UV Effect. I'm currently using XT-1 Nuke.


----------



## Sjonnieh

hey guys,

dont know if this is the right thread for it but hey, im running into a problem which is anoying me.
i got mayhem pastel sunset yellow but after less then 1 month i got this, now is the question how to solve and or does it need solving, else i will just change the fluid again.
thanks in advance. (look at pictures)


----------



## war4peace

It's normal, if the liquid at the top of the reservoir isn't moving. Note: you can have static fluid at the top of the reservoir if the pump isn't strong enough to move liquid through the whole reservoir, e.g. if you have both the intake and output at the bottom of the reservoir.
The nanoparticles will settle if the liquid isn't moving.


----------



## Sjonnieh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> It's normal, if the liquid at the top of the reservoir isn't moving. Note: you can have static fluid at the top of the reservoir if the pump isn't strong enough to move liquid through the whole reservoir, e.g. if you have both the intake and output at the bottom of the reservoir.
> The nanoparticles will settle if the liquid isn't moving.


hey thanks for the fast response, yes i got both in and out at the bottom of my d5 pump, guess i got to live with it for now


----------



## war4peace

No worries man, just don't worry about it, I won't suggest kicking the PC however one solution is to mount an internal tube into your reservoir which helps push the liquid up more. EK and Alphacool reservoirs allow for that, not sure about others though.


----------



## Sjonnieh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> No worries man, just don't worry about it, I won't suggest kicking the PC however one solution is to mount an internal tube into your reservoir which helps push the liquid up more. EK and Alphacool reservoirs allow for that, not sure about others though.


i will check that out my whole computer is build on ekwb so that wont be much of a problem.


----------



## war4peace

Here's where the internal tubes are.


----------



## ckoons1

is it possible to buy just a bottle of blitz part one only since i already have the goggles , gloves and part two ?

thx


----------



## 414347

You can get part#1 alone, but not without gloves and googles its only $15 at either PPC or Mayhems


----------



## ckoons1

how many goggles does a person need LOL...

I understand. mayhems has to protect themselves.

thank you


----------



## 414347




----------



## ckoons1

LOL...


----------



## iCrap

Anyone know how long the new Aurora fluid lasts? I tried the orange one maybe a year or two ago and within only like a week or two the effect was gone. I want to get some blue if the effect is long lasting


----------



## war4peace

Aurora is not for long term use.


----------



## pompss

after using mayhem white uv pastel +clear dye uv and the liquid getting a bit yellow should i use blitz part 2 to clean it or i can refill directly ( after a distilled water flush) with xt-1 nuke uv?
Thanks


----------



## pompss

ideal ph for xt-1 nuke? and happy Thanksgiving to all


----------



## 414347

Its always good idea to run blitz #2 through your loop when either changing colors or you suspecting that your loop might need cleaning it will never hurts, but will always help to keep your system in good shape.

It will not only clean your loop, but will neutralize unbalanced PH that might went out of wack, which should be no higher than 6-8 MAX I would try to aim for 7, its the best middle ground.
Happy holidays to you as swell


----------



## ckoons1

Is it ok to use mayhems biocide extreme on nickel water block?
Thank you


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Is it ok to use mayhems biocide extreme on nickel water block?
> Thank you


That's what Ive been using for the past 3 years, all of my blocks are nickle plated.

1 drop per 1L don't over do it, than add 1 drop per 1-15L every 2 months you can go up to a 1 year at most best is every 6 months and than you should change your water


----------



## ckoons1

Excellent Thank you


----------



## ckoons1

Do I need to flush the remains of mayhems x1 clear with distilled water first before using the biocide extreme?
I'm updating a couple components.
Thank you


----------



## 414347

If you going to use distilled water with Biocide only, no, the small amount that might remain in your system won't hurt anything, anything beyond just distilled you probably should as the X1 is premixed and already have some goodies in it.


----------



## ckoons1

Thank you ?


----------



## Andrew LB

So here's the deal. I have been wanting to upgrade to rigid tubing for a while now and just pulled the trigger on twelve 14mm rigid compression fittings from Barrow and had planned on using PETG and for coolant I have a brand new bottle of Mayhem's XT-1 Nuke Clear (and UV blue dye). Then just prior to ordering the tubing, i discovered that XT-1 Nuke is incompatible with PETG tubing even though there is no mention of this incompatibility on Mayhem's product page for the coolant. What do you guys recommend? It looks like my only real options are to go with acrylic tubing (which is brittle) or change coolant to one that does not contain ethylene glycerol. I did look at some chemical compatibility tables on various sites and to my surprise, PETG seems to have major compatibility issues with a lot of chemicals, cleaners, and coolant types.

I really would like to stick with a clear coolant with UV reactive dye since not only does it look great, but due to my CCFL UV lights, any leak is immediately visible which has saved my rig already once in the past.


----------



## war4peace

Acrylic tubing is not brittle. All those videos where they take a hammer to it are true, but you don't usually take a hammer to your PC, do you?
Use cast acrylic, not extruded and it's going to be fine as long as you don't overtighten the fittings on it.
Question is: have you seen 14mm OD tubing? All I've found is 12mm or 16mm, and Barrow 14mm is smack in the middle.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> So here's the deal. I have been wanting to upgrade to rigid tubing for a while now and just pulled the trigger on twelve 14mm rigid compression fittings from Barrow and had planned on using PETG and for coolant I have a brand new bottle of Mayhem's XT-1 Nuke Clear (and UV blue dye). Then just prior to ordering the tubing, i discovered that XT-1 Nuke is incompatible with PETG tubing even though there is no mention of this incompatibility on Mayhem's product page for the coolant. What do you guys recommend? It looks like my only real options are to go with acrylic tubing (which is brittle) or change coolant to one that does not contain ethylene glycerol. I did look at some chemical compatibility tables on various sites and to my surprise, PETG seems to have major compatibility issues with a lot of chemicals, cleaners, and coolant types.
> 
> I really would like to stick with a clear coolant with UV reactive dye since not only does it look great, but due to my CCFL UV lights, any leak is immediately visible which has saved my rig already once in the past.


Acrylic isn't brittle at all. Just a bit more difficult to bend and takes more time to bend it properly.
I went with Acrylic because of that same reason, Mayhems Pastel Extreme White also isn't compatible with PETG. Plus I find acrylic to look better.

I didn't bend my tubing so it was easier to work with.

Here's an overview of what coolant are/aren't compatible with which tubing.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> So here's the deal. I have been wanting to upgrade to rigid tubing for a while now and just pulled the trigger on twelve 14mm rigid compression fittings from Barrow and had planned on using PETG and for coolant I have a brand new bottle of Mayhem's XT-1 Nuke Clear (and UV blue dye). Then just prior to ordering the tubing, i discovered that XT-1 Nuke is incompatible with PETG tubing even though there is no mention of this incompatibility on Mayhem's product page for the coolant. What do you guys recommend? It looks like my only real options are to go with acrylic tubing (which is brittle) or change coolant to one that does not contain ethylene glycerol. I did look at some chemical compatibility tables on various sites and to my surprise, PETG seems to have major compatibility issues with a lot of chemicals, cleaners, and coolant types.
> 
> I really would like to stick with a clear coolant with UV reactive dye since not only does it look great, but due to my CCFL UV lights, any leak is immediately visible which has saved my rig already once in the past.


You could use the X1 clear with uv dye, unless you specifically needed XT-1 for some reason.


----------



## 414347

I've been watercooling for about 6 years now and right from get-Go I went with Monsoon rigid acrylic black tubing. Originally I was debating between flex tubing, or acrylic and I've been convinced by one of the guys here to go with acrylic, he said "it might be harder at first as far is bending but ultimately I would be much happier with results".

I did acrylic about 5-6 years ago and I have never changed any tubing, except 1 of them when I was upgrading CPU block, but among all my tubing non ever cracked or deform or leached any liquid, they last pretty much for ever and that brings me to a comment about PETG.

I have 2 identical systems in my home, one is remote data collection server that runs 24/7 and the other is my workstation that runs pretty much 24/7 as well.

When PETG first came out I didn't jump the gun, but about 1.5 years ago I upgraded one of the system with PETG and I run only DI with Biocide, my observation is, PETG is not very long lasting material, its not horrible, but it does absorbs some liquid and you will see some liquid lose because of that and that is not a good thing








After seen that I removed all PETG from that system and did exactly what I have in my other workstation...Monsoon acrylic









Its not as bad is flex tubing where it leaches plasticizer, but it does leach some chemical into your liquid and that is not a good thing.

Do it once and do it right way Acrylic Tubing is the only way to assure longevity of your coolant and tubing's themselves, the only benefit and to PETG is easier bending, but even that, bending is not difficult and is worth every mistake and effort at the end , it's my $0.5


----------



## DarthBaggins

Also EK's ZMT is amazing if you want to go with a soft tubing that doesn't leach and is great to work with. Acrylic tubing is great to work with and really not that difficult either, just take your time on your runs


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Acrylic tubing is not brittle. All those videos where they take a hammer to it are true, but you don't usually take a hammer to your PC, do you?
> Use cast acrylic, not extruded and it's going to be fine as long as you don't overtighten the fittings on it.
> Question is: have you seen 14mm OD tubing? All I've found is 12mm or 16mm, and Barrow 14mm is smack in the middle.


I completely understand that those videos are BS, in fact I never took them seriously at all. My concern is the tendency for acrylic to fracture. This is well documented and was the reason why quite a few acrylic pump tops including many dual Ddc tops became EOL so fast, and some Acrylic reservoirs that are also prone to fractures (like my alpha cool cape corp), and how when I recently purchased a Watercool Dual-DDC top I was not just told by people here, but I received a little note with the pump top talking about how you really need to be cautious about tightening the screws down. If you'd like I'll take some pics of my acrylic reservoir once I finish leak testing my PC. (Finally got around to installing the dual DDC pumps today)


----------



## war4peace

What you said reinforces what I said








"it's going to be fine as long as you don't overtighten the fittings on it".

That's not a "tendency to fracture", it's how the material works, apply too much pressure and it cracks. key word being "too much".
Too much pressure is bad for anything.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems is now an official Partner of #Alpacool, We going to be selling there products via our shop for UK users and as a gesture of good will to all UK goers if you spend £100.00 or Over you will now get free shipping in the UK. This is a permanent offer from Mayhems in the UK.

We have been asked all so if we will pre-clean Alphacool radiators with the Mayhems Blitz Cleaning system, we are talking with Alphacool to see if this will void any warranties, if not we will consider doing this at extra cost on limited runs. Or we can offer a mini Blitz cleaning system "free of charge" with any Alphacool Radiator bought from our store (this is a world wide offer not for just the UK).

Mayhems is growing at a rapid rate and we will introduce more products to the UK market soon.

On wards and upwards.

As a side note on the VPP 755 Pumps we are now in our 3rd month (i think, had them going that long i forgot to mark down the start date) and we have tested Mayhems Pastel and XT-1 Nuke, X1 and have come across no issues what so ever. We have noted with just water its best to turn the pump speed down and not to run it at full speed. We do not recommend you use any SFX coolants what so ever with this pump.


----------



## Leonko

what about VP755 problem? you just put it all under carpet and its done? still no news


----------



## war4peace

Dunno mate, I might be sinning with this but my impression is that Alphacool had offered a large enough sum or bought part of Mayhems business. With the management changes and 180 degrees turn on previous Alphacool stance it certainly can be perceived that way.


----------



## pompss

Primochill just released Vue coolant that look the same as aurora also UV and seems to clean your system from older coolant residue that was orange pastel .
4-6 months the life span by primochill. Maybe worth a try.

Here the video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMV6XsUsZb8


----------



## Kamrooz

Just took the plunge and invested about a grand to go full custom for the first time ever. I normally end up going with sealed coolers from Corsair and NZXT, but decided otherwise this time. Ordered the Pastel White as well as the Blitz Pro Kit.

Any advice on how to prep my radiator? I noticed on the video from mayhem he flushes after the part 1 with tap water. Although he is in Australia, which apparently the tap differs from the states? Is that safe to do so? Or should I flush it with distilled. Just curious how I can flush it thoroughly with enough distilled liquid, considering just putting a hose on it with tap would definitely move enough liquid through it for a rinse, although it would be tap.

Would it be a bad idea to flush with tap after part 1, follow up with a short distilled flush, then follow up with a loop run with part 2 of blitz, then mayhem white? Any advice would be appreciate, just curious what all you guys do for yours. The thought of running tap though through my rad makes me a bit squirmy.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Just took the plunge and invested about a grand to go full custom for the first time ever. I normally end up going with sealed coolers from Corsair and NZXT, but decided otherwise this time. Ordered the Pastel White as well as the Blitz Pro Kit.
> 
> Any advice on how to prep my radiator? I noticed on the video from mayhem he flushes after the part 1 with tap water. Although he is in Australia, which apparently the tap differs from the states? Is that safe to do so? Or should I flush it with distilled. Just curious how I can flush it thoroughly with enough distilled liquid, considering just putting a hose on it with tap would definitely move enough liquid through it for a rinse, although it would be tap.
> 
> Would it be a bad idea to flush with tap after part 1, follow up with a short distilled flush, then follow up with a loop run with part 2 of blitz, then mayhem white? Any advice would be appreciate, just curious what all you guys do for yours. The thought of running tap though through my rad makes me a bit squirmy.
> Edited by Kamrooz - Today at 8:20 am


That's the way to go, custom is the best in every way you look.
I can give you small advice so you can either really enjoy custom loop, or you might hate it if things go wrong.

Take your time building, rushing is something that can cause problem(s) and opps..







, use good fittings, don't skimp on them, they will keep your loop sealed well, or again opps...and you have a leak

As far is preparation of your components.. Use Blitz #1 for rads, you can flash it afterwards with tap water, no problem there, flash it few times, maybe 3-4 times (15-20min each time) but don't overwhelm yourself, at later time you going to use Blitz #2

Once you done your rads put your system together, from now on run distilled through your loop to check for leaks, if there is no leaks mix Blitz #2 and run that through your system for 12 hours, no need to run it longer, at this point blitz #2 will clean all your parts and fix any PH unbalance, make sure to use only distilled or DI to flush the blitz #2 several times so it's totally out of your system.

After that filled your loop with your coolant and you should be OK.

Good luck


----------



## wailife

arora supernova with thermaltake rgb fitting
for the zotac lanparty 3day , the effect it gone ......but still nice foe showcase


----------



## 414347

The colors are definitely eye catcher, very nice, but 3 days for aurora...by far not acceptable in my book


----------



## wailife

If the price going cheap should be OK, for 3day effect usd 5 I think it will be best for all the user ?


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Dunno mate, I might be sinning with this but my impression is that Alphacool had offered a large enough sum or bought part of Mayhems business. With the management changes and 180 degrees turn on previous Alphacool stance it certainly can be perceived that way.


*What has happen'd at Mayhems ?*

Well Steve my bunsiess partner for 6 years has retired and i bought his shares out and now own 100% of the company. All so i spoke with many re sellers in the past and decided to expand our store by starting off with Alphacool products. I am the only owner / investor in Mayhems.. No other company owns or invests in us and i personally put my hand in my pocket and splashed out on Alphacool products my self (let put it this way the offered credit i refused it). I have no credit with any company and Mayhems only sells what we have in stock. We have no debt what so ever.

I was offer'd a Job with Alphacool and to be part of there team and after seeing the way the company works and how friendly they are i nearly accepted, How ever i decided i would like to try and expand and push my limits even harder and further and progress on my own (i just love a challenge). There is no under the table dealings and no backhander's what so ever (i cannot be bought by any one). Mayhems has all ways been honest with every one and it will stay that way. My morals come before my pockets and my customer come before pockets as well. I've changed the water cooling world a few times! now to change the shopping side and CS again here in the UK. I may be small but ive allready shown small can have a wide spread impact .....

I love my hobby and have more passion than most for it! and its still only a hobby to me.


----------



## Leonko

we didnt ask who owns who or what comes first for you. I think that EVERYONE would like to now, FINALLY, how it is with VPP755 and your coolants. Since Alphacool accused you (your company) that your liquids are damaging their hardware. You alone should want to investigate it, caase your company name is at risk. I dont know why we cant get straight answer almost YEAR AFTER affair. So my question is againg.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> what about VP755 problem? you just put it all under carpet and its done? still no news


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Mayhems is now an official Partner of #Alpacool, We going to be selling there products via our shop for UK users and as a gesture of good will to all UK goers if you spend £100.00 or Over you will now get free shipping in the UK. This is a permanent offer from Mayhems in the UK.
> 
> We have been asked all so if we will pre-clean Alphacool radiators with the Mayhems Blitz Cleaning system, we are talking with Alphacool to see if this will void any warranties, if not we will consider doing this at extra cost on limited runs. Or we can offer a mini Blitz cleaning system "free of charge" with any Alphacool Radiator bought from our store (this is a world wide offer not for just the UK).
> 
> Mayhems is growing at a rapid rate and we will introduce more products to the UK market soon.
> 
> On wards and upwards.
> 
> *As a side note on the VPP 755 Pumps we are now in our 3rd month (i think, had them going that long i forgot to mark down the start date) and we have tested Mayhems Pastel and XT-1 Nuke, X1 and have come across no issues what so ever. We have noted with just water its best to turn the pump speed down and not to run it at full speed. We do not recommend you use any SFX coolants what so ever with this pump.*


May be you missed that bit.....


----------



## Leonko

thanks for answer,... then im going to ask alphacool in their thread if they still stand for their statement about your coolants.


----------



## war4peace

Thank you for your answer. I am going to continue using Mayhems Pastel White, I have 6L stashed in my storage room, ready for my extreme radiator build.
I'm very happy with Pastel White.


----------



## Mayhem

You may find it still stands, we have no control over there warranty, how ever in our testing we have found no issues for "us" to worry about when using our coolant except for SFX coolants (no matter what any company says running a SFX coolant for long periods of time can have issues). The only advise i can say from our testing is if running just water + dye or Water + Additive such as a Biocide, turn the pump speed down to 3 or 4. That pump has some serious speed and on most systems it is not necessary to run at full speed.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know with my dual D5’s they only run at 2.5 to 3 max, anything higher doesn’t help things at all plus I don’t need that much of a flow rate.


----------



## Mayhem

IMPORTANT - Product Issue >

"Mayhems X1 UV Clear Blue 1 Ltr" -

Bar Code "609224351105"

Dated - Sell by -18.5.2021, Used by 18.05.2024.

If your fluid comes out cloudy please contact us directly ([email protected]) with a photo and we will replace it free of charge with a free gift for you inconvence. Some bottles have had what seems to be a powdery layer inside (not all just a few we have found) them that we have not seen before and this has made the clear fluid turn whitish. We will replace these Free of Charge.

You will need to include "Full name, Address, Telephone number" and a photo of the offending bottle (we need to see the date code) and fluid. Please all so include a receipt so we can speak to whom ever sold you it. We do apologise if this has caused you any inconvenience.


----------



## SteezyTN

I’ve been using Pastel Ice White and Pastel Red in my build since October 2016 (so 1 year and 2 months). I was running dual loops, but I’m swapping to single and I combined the two colors... I’m cheap. The liquid looks perfectly fine, and was wondering if it’s fine to continue using it. I’m asking because my computer wasn’t on for long periods. Been busy with school, so during that last year, there’s probably only like 100 hours of use.


----------



## Kamrooz

Performance PC's finally got the ekwb rgb pump/res in stock. Placed my order along with the mayhem blitz kit, and a few other needed pieces to complete my new rig.

But I have a couple specific questions regarding the Mayhem blitz kit. I live in an apartment, with no personal garage or anything to have a workable area. If I was to go through doing it on my kitchen counter, would it be a good idea to use some mixed water and baking soda in case of a blitz part 1 spill? I know the percentage is incredibly low for the phosphoric acid in the blitz kit. But considering I'm going to be doing it where we normally make food, want to make sure I take precautions in quickly neutralizing any spills. Would this be a good idea? never worked with phosphoric acid before.

I've also noticed it states to not spill on paintwork. Was planning to sand down and paint my radiator. So I assume it would be better to do this after the part 1. At the end of the instructions for part 1, it states to refit it to loop and run part 2. But is it alright to leave it out for a few days before doing so? considering I am going to be prepping and painting the rad? Not sure if the part 2 was used as a means of neutralizing the left over part 1 or not, but it would be a few days of getting the radiator painted before it ends up in my loop with part 2.

Appreciate any advice. Want to make sure I get this nailed down correctly.


----------



## war4peace

Coca cola also contains phosphoric acid


----------



## dwolvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I've been using Pastel Ice White and Pastel Red in my build since October 2016 (so 1 year and 2 months). I was running dual loops, but I'm swapping to single and I combined the two colors... I'm cheap. The liquid looks perfectly fine, and was wondering if it's fine to continue using it. I'm asking because my computer wasn't on for long periods. Been busy with school, so during that last year, there's probably only like 100 hours of use.


If you don't mind the frankencolor and it's not dirty it should be fine... But I have to ask; is it Pepto Pink?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> If you don't mind the frankencolor and it's not dirty it should be fine... But I have to ask; is it Pepto Pink?


I honestly can't tell yet. It's still in the distilled water container, and it's hard to tell when in there. Definitely will post a pic when it's in the loop.


----------



## madbrayniak

All, I am using Mayhems XT-1 clear with EK XE360 and copper Supremecy EVO. The coolant turned blue on me. Any idea why? I rinsed everything and made sure to mix the right amount of distilled water.


----------



## madbrayniak

P.s. This mix is only a couple weeks old and it turned in about 24hrs.


----------



## KCDC

Hey there everyone and those at Mayhems,

Have a question for yall.

I'm planning to get mayhems' borosilicate glass tubing 13mm OD.

I want to make sure I get the right fittings for this build. Both regular and 90 degree.. I've heard reports that not all fittings fit the same with rigid tubing, which worries me. If anyone can confirm what brands works best with this glass tubing, I would be most thankful.


----------



## Mayhem

Thermal Take, Alphacool, EK, and monsoon all good brands that work. Had issues in the past with primochill and a few others due to bad QC controls and the OD basically being out of wack were one second one fitting will fit and then another wont because they are out by as much as 0.5mm. How ever other users may have had different experiences., I was surprised with the TT ones and thought they were gonna be bad but i was totally incorrect.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Thermal Take, Alphacool, EK, and monsoon all good brands that work. Had issues in the past with primochill and a few others due to bad QC controls and the OD basically being out of wack were one second one fitting will fit and then another wont because they are out by as much as 0.5mm. How ever other users may have had different experiences., I was surprised with the TT ones and thought they were gonna be bad but i was totally incorrect.


Thanks so much! I was hoping the Monsoon fittings would work.

Any chance you've tested the Phanteks fittings? I am a fan of their look.


----------



## Mayhem

No we have had a Phanteks blocks and was impressed with the QC on them.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Hey there everyone and those at Mayhems,
> 
> Have a question for yall.
> 
> I'm planning to get mayhems' borosilicate glass tubing 13mm OD.
> 
> I want to make sure I get the right fittings for this build. Both regular and 90 degree.. I've heard reports that not all fittings fit the same with rigid tubing, which worries me. If anyone can confirm what brands works best with this glass tubing, I would be most thankful.


Barrow, Bitspower, EK, AlphaCool will all work. AlphaCool was tight fit for some reason compared to Bitspower & Barrow. I would suggest using Barrow or Bitspower Since I have fully tested those fittings and they work perfectly. They hold the glass tight, I have two fittings stuck on some glass tubing and I can't get them off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Thermal Take, Alphacool, EK, and monsoon all good brands that work. Had issues in the past with primochill and a few others due to bad QC controls and the OD basically being out of wack were one second one fitting will fit and then another wont because they are out by as much as 0.5mm. How ever other users may have had different experiences., I was surprised with the TT ones and thought they were gonna be bad but i was totally incorrect.


TT are ok based on my past experience with the company & there products. I just find there choices a bit strange when it comes to watercooling. They sell Aluminum radiators but all there blocks and fittings are copper. Maybe someone should tell them you shouldn't be mixing metals.

I would not 100% I would trust TT since I been burned by them before and they will not take any responsible for the problems(Even when showed proof). Add on top of that there Support/Contact refuses to ever reply back to you. I sent them them four E-mails using different E-mails I found on TT site and using different E-mails (Thinking my one E-mail address was being flagged as spam) and it's been around two months with zero replies back.

The only fittings I would actually consider buying from TT is there RGB fittings.

PrimoChill uses Imperial system, I wouldn't use those fittings on metric tubing. Same goes for MonSoon. Not sure how well MonSoon Free Center fittings will hold with glass. Since it's designed for Acrylic tubing and you have to UV Curl it with there glue.


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Barrow, Bitspower, EK, AlphaCool will all work. AlphaCool was tight fit for some reason compared to Bitspower & Barrow. I would suggest using Barrow or Bitspower Since I have fully tested those fittings and they work perfectly. They hold the glass tight, I have two fittings stuck on some glass tubing and I can't get them off.
> TT are ok based on my past experience with the company & there products. I just find there choices a bit strange when it comes to watercooling. They sell Aluminum radiators but all there blocks and fittings are copper. Maybe someone should tell them you shouldn't be mixing metals.
> 
> I would not 100% I would trust TT since I been burned by them before and they will not take any responsible for the problems(Even when showed proof). Add on top of that there Support/Contact refuses to ever reply back to you. I sent them them four E-mails using different E-mails I found on TT site and using different E-mails (Thinking my one E-mail address was being flagged as spam) and it's been around two months with zero replies back.
> 
> The only fittings I would actually consider buying from TT is there RGB fittings.
> 
> PrimoChill uses Imperial system, I wouldn't use those fittings on metric tubing. Same goes for MonSoon. Not sure how well MonSoon Free Center fittings will hold with glass. Since it's designed for Acrylic tubing and you have to UV Curl it with there glue.


Appreciate the info! BP it is. I may test out a couple phanteks fittings as well just to see how well they fit.


----------



## Mayhem

Our last shipment date is the 18 Dec 2017. After this date no orders will ship till the 3rd Jan 2018. Happy Christmas and a Happy new year to all our customers. There will also be no support during this time.

I need a brake


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Our last shipment date is the 18 Dec 2017. After this date no orders will ship till the 3rd Jan 2018. Happy Christmas and a Happy new year to all our customers. There will also be no support during this time.
> 
> I need a brake


Enjoy your time off. You deserve it!


----------



## Mayhem

No we do not rest -

*PETG Research* -

We have found a possible reason why some fluids don't play well with PETG Tubing and its quite an in depth one. We trying to contact manufacturers to find some answers. Its all to do with certain Type of Light , dye, coolant and PETG Tubing under very specific conditions. Its so specific it may have created a totally new type of Pigment never seen before and has some of my scientist friends rather excited but worryingly its not some thing that is good for our industry.... Ill keep you updated and it will also explain why TT has having issues they may not even know about and why some users experience problems with coolants, and also will effect coolants using pigments such as mica and PETG tubing. I have reached out to a couple of companies with no answers as of yet but if it comes down to it we may pay for analysis of all PETG tubing on the market to get the answers we need. Its all to do with what ingredients are used when making PETG as we noted in the past "Not all PETG" is the same, now we have a good idea why and what the possible issues are later on down the line. These are things ill guarantee you no other company has even thought about ever.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Appreciate the info! BP it is. I may test out a couple phanteks fittings as well just to see how well they fit.


Phanteks fittings are a bit fatter then most of the other fittings, Bitspower is still the best even though it's more expensive then others at times (If there to expensive, Barrow is always my second choice).


----------



## Undesirable

I had little bits floating around in my loop after using XT-1 UV Green @ 1:10 ratio for several months. It appeared to be plasticiser, although I used Mayhems flexible tubing in the build. The inside of the tubing was cloudy and looked like it was being broken down.

I used Mayhems tubing 16 / 10 flexible, AquaComputer Kryographics 1080 (Nickel / Plexi) GPU waterblock, AquaComputer Cuplex Kryos Next (Nickel / Nickel) CPU waterblock, AquaComputer Aquastream XT pump / Aquainlet Res combo (there's a stainless steel tube in the res), Hardware Labs SR-1 360 radiator and Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings.

I have a new build coming for Threadripper and I'll use an XSPC Photon reservoir instead of the AquaComputer one and try again with the Mayhems XT-1 fluid. I'll also flush my radiator out for longer.


----------



## Mayhem

The Hardware Labs SR-1 360 radiator is the issue, how was this cleaned before use. We have seen this before with the Hardware Labs SR-1 range of rads.


----------



## Undesirable

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> The Hardware Labs SR-1 360 radiator is the issue, how was this cleaned before use. We have seen this before with the Hardware Labs SR-1 range of rads.


Originally before I started using it, the SR1 was flushed with hot kettle water 2-3 times then ultra pure 2-3 times. It has also been in 2 previous builds and flushed with ultra pure 2-3 times each time before I switched to the XT-1 build. In my upcoming Threadripper build I have a new HW Labs Nemesis GTS rad. I thought HW Labs were some of the cleanest rads off the factory line?

What do you guys use to attach the rad G1/4 port to the hot tap in order to flush?


----------



## 414347

Hardware Labs are among the cleanest rads on the market and there is no dispute about that I have at least dozen of 480's throughout my home systems and they are always super clean.

I love them because they are optimized for low RPM fans so you can use case fans rather than radiator fans for silence, yet, get good cooling.

But.....they are also the most restrictive radiation and if you don't use something with high pressure they can literately hold water and garbage if it gets there for the next several flashes so you might be dragging stuff from one build to the next without even knowing it, even after you clean them with hot water.


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> But.....they are also the most restrictive radiation and if you don't use something with high pressure they can literately hold water and garbage if it gets there for the next several flashes so you might be dragging stuff from one build to the next without even knowing it, even after you clean them with hot water.


In other words, its recommend to use some sort of system cleaner, like the blitz kit, when changing liquid/making new build with Hardware Labs rads?


----------



## d3t0n8

If your Black Ice SR1 was in two previous loops with no issues, that would pretty much isolate it from the root cause.

There is nothing left in there to cause any problems given how rigorous your rinsing has been.

Any residual flux would turn your coolant opaque with a "milky" white color, leeched plasticizers would simply turn it murky. When running a screw driver tip through the inner lining of your tubing reveals streaks, there's a good chance that the tubing is incompatible with the coolant chemistry.

The tubing you should use must use non-pthalate based plasticizers for it to be resistant to glycol.

Troubleshooting requires a bit more nuance, otherwise it would be rinse-repeat. Pun unintended.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> In other words, its recommend to use some sort of system cleaner, like the blitz kit, when changing liquid/making new build with Hardware Labs rads?


If you run only Distilled with Biocide, its not necessary to use Blitz, it would definitely not hurt if you use it, it would clean your system. I use Distilled with Biocide, yet I use Blitz #2 annually to clean my whole workstatio's internals and I never have taking my system apart, that's how confident I am with that cleaner.

If you using color liquid, yes its advisable to use Blitz.

What I do is I use my external 2x D5 pumps that I connect to my system line and I use them to run at MAX speed to flash my whole system (high Flow) my system is big so I need 2 pumps at least.

This way I know that whatever was sitting in my line will get clean by Blitz and flashed completely


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> If your Black Ice SR1 was in two previous loops with no issues, that would pretty much isolate it from the root cause.


I wouldn't be so sure about that. Once I had loop with Black Ice nemesis that was running color pastel in my nephews rig I moved that Rad from one system to the next and I have flashed it with hot water and very generously.

When I decided to use that rad afterwords and I used Blitz#2 with high pressure flow ( 2G/L a gunk have came out, it was like a slime you see on TV kids make, obviously that was from previous liquid and that rad was flashed few time before that.

Hardware Labs are great as far is being clean right from the factory and they are good performers but they are so restrictive that if you have something in there, its tricky to remove it, I have 4x D5 pumps and it takes me good 1-2 months to fully bleed my system.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I wouldn't be so sure about that. Once I had loop with Black Ice nemesis that was running color pastel in my nephews rig I moved that Rad from one system to the next and I have flashed it with hot water and very generously.
> 
> When I decided to use that rad afterwords and I used Blitz#2 with high pressure flow ( 2G/L a gunk have came out, it was like a slime you see on TV kids make, obviously that was from previous liquid and that rad was flashed few time before that.
> 
> Hardware Labs are great as far is being clean right from the factory and they are good performers but they are so restrictive that if you have something in there, its tricky to remove it, I have 4x D5 pumps and it takes me good 1-2 months to fully bleed my system.


FYI, you replied to the owner of Hardware Labs









Their SR series of rads aren't any more restrictive to coolant flow as others, and the SR2 is actually the least restrictive radiator I have tested. It's their Nemesis line with the thin tubes that has the higher than average coolant pressure drop.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> FYI, you replied to the owner of Hardware Labs biggrin.gif
> 
> Their SR series of rads aren't any more restrictive to coolant flow as others, and the SR2 is actually the least restrictive radiator I have tested. It's their Nemesis line with the thin tubes that has the higher than average coolant pressure drop.


OK








'
I'm still saying what Ive personally seen happening and my experience and how I deal with it


----------



## d3t0n8

If you're going to use a cleaning solution, normally a light acid mix, then just let it sit inside the radiator for a while before flushing.

Post-op maintenance cleaning would likely have particles from poor quality tubing and dye residue than any process chemicals from manufacturing.

The cleaning process for our radiators are very robust. In situations where discoloration happens, the likely suspects are plating solution residue and/or gasket solvents.

As far as flow restriction is concerned, the typical water block is by far the most constricted part of one's loop.


----------



## Mayhem

Agree with the restriction the water block can also act as a filter capturing larger particles (one reason why you some times need to push liquid though backwards). The cup test is a nice test how ever you need to apply heat to the fluid as this is also a catalyst.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

*hello everyone,

im new to forum. i have few questions about Mayhems x1 blood red and my watercooling setup (sorry if that is a bit off topic in this thread). i read on few places from users saying, this type of luube clodge things after a while in gpu blocks and in radiators, can anyone here tell me from his own experience how is this particular luube acting in ur system? im intrested about maintence also, how long or do i have at all to drain luube and add new, etc. my first time i do water cooling so yeah.

i expect getting 1x 360mm and 1x 420mm radiators with system, it should be single luube setup for my 8700k and 2x 1080ti asus strix cards.

i dont have intension of overclocking anything (8700k comes overclocked to 4,8ghz out of box). im mainly intrested at cool temps, under 50c (under load) if that is possible to expect with this type of setup, my tower will be thermaltake x71.*


----------



## DarthBaggins

X1 Runs great in loops, I've run the Blood Red (normal run-time for me is a year for coolants). Make sure you flush out your rads really well prior to using any colored fluid and make sure the pH level of the loop is around 7 to ensure no reactions w/ the color of the fluid.


----------



## paskowitz

Question about Mayhems X1 UV Green (w/distilled). So I did a build for a client (first client custom loop) and it appears the UV effect fades rather substantially after about 60 days.

Before:


After:


Tubing is Primochill PETG. I did their SysPrep and a ~20/80 vinegar/distilled rinse on the rads before filling.

1. Is this normal?
2. Potential causes?
3. Fix? (obviously adding more dye)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Did you do a basic flush (a couple tsp/tbsp of baking soda) to equalize the components? (Pretty much what Blitz pt2 does)


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Did you do a basic flush (a couple tsp/tbsp of baking soda) to equalize the components? (Pretty much what Blitz pt2 does)


No. I've never heard of that, but I'll give it a try.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> No. I've never heard of that, but I'll give it a try.


Do that portion with distilled, and then flush with straight distilled and check the pH of the fluid


----------



## Mayhem

TBH Blitz Part 2 does a lot more than that but it yes you are correct it also balances the PH levels.


PH 7 Neutral Cleaner
Neutralisation of bacteria & algae
Removes slime, silt & detritus
Lifts and suspends particulates for easy removal
Is hard water tolerant
Uses Non-Ionic Surfactants
Prepares a new or used system ready for new coolant
Over 1/2 million units sold and used and is the no 1 Cleaning method for liquid cooled loops.


----------



## 414347

Blitz #2 is my #1 annual system cleaner I never took my system apart in over 3 years and recently I checked some of my blocks on test setup (over 3 years running) amazing results as clean as the day 1 the blocks have been installed


----------



## Sjonnieh

Hey guys,

If i mix this Mayhems Pastel - Ice White with Mayhems Dye Dark Blue 15ml and then add this Mayhems Non Stain UV Clear / Sky Blue Dye, do i need to add Mayhems Biocide Extreme 15ml.

thx in advance


----------



## Mayhem

No need for a biocide with any concentrate or premixed coolant.


----------



## Sjonnieh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No need for a biocide with any concentrate or premixed coolant.


Thanks for the info, i got another question though,
1: If i mix Mayhems Pastel - Ice White with this, Mayhems Dye Dark Blue will it stain in my blocks.(i use ekwb for everything)
2: And also is this Mayhems Non Stain UV Clear / Sky Blue Dye, clear liquid which gives a blue tint when you use a uv light?
The reason why i ask is if i want to go green can i also make that uv active with this Non Stain UV Clear / Sky Blue Dye.
3: And does this Non Stain UV Clear / Sky Blue Dye make the complete liquid non stain.
4: And last but not least should i just have bought Mayhems Non Stain dye's.


----------



## Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sjonnieh*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> No need for a biocide with any concentrate or premixed coolant.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info, i got another question though,
> 1: If i mix Mayhems Pastel - Ice White with this, Mayhems Dye Dark Blue will it stain in my blocks.(i use ekwb for everything)
> 2: And also is this Mayhems Non Stain UV Clear / Sky Blue Dye, clear liquid which gives a blue tint when you use a uv light?
> The reason why i ask is if i want to go green can i also make that uv active with this Non Stain UV Clear / Sky Blue Dye.
> 3: And does this Non Stain UV Clear / Sky Blue Dye make the complete liquid non stain.
> 4: And last but not least should i just have bought Mayhems Non Stain dye's.
Click to expand...

Hi again

1) Mixing colour will be fine and should not stain blocks how ever depending on tubing used and temps hit you can get what is known as capillary action. This is most prominent in Petg tubing.
2) Yes UV clear Additives are light blue under UV light, they are not relay a dye. Green dye (uv type and normal) can mask out the very light blue hue you get.
3) No, if you add normal dye it becomes a stain dye how ever again its all dependent on temps and amounts used.
4) No, non stain dyes are only non stain with light usage, if you use lots and say Petg tubing again you can get capillary action.

non stains stop staining when spilt onto carpets and the like, its formulated stop it enter the carpet stands and some plastics.


----------



## Sjonnieh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> Hi again
> 
> 1) Mixing colour will be fine and should not stain blocks how ever depending on tubing used and temps hit you can get what is known as capillary action. This is most prominent in Petg tubing.
> 2) Yes UV clear Additives are light blue under UV light, they are not relay a dye. Green dye (uv type and normal) can mask out the very light blue hue you get.
> 3) No, if you add normal dye it becomes a stain dye how ever again its all dependent on temps and amounts used.
> 4) No, non stain dyes are only non stain with light usage, if you use lots and say Petg tubing again you can get capillary action.
> 
> non stains stop staining when spilt onto carpets and the like, its formulated stop it enter the carpet stands and some plastics.


Thank you for making everything clear to me, i was a bit confused with the dye things.
I am using ekwb's petg but i don't mind replacing tubes every time i change the liquid, i don't like to changing blocks though.


----------



## Mayhem

Blocks are very resistant against dyes as long as you do not use alot. The worst colours are reds and pinks. The best colours are greens and blues.


----------



## fx3861

Can the mayhem red dye be mixed with liquid utopia from primochill? Since i already ordered the sysprep from primochill, will i be able to use it or i need buy the blitz kit as well?


----------



## kevindd992002

@Mayhem

I have some questions regarding the Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning System:

1) For part 1, it specifically says in your webshop this:

* 250ml Mayhems Blitz Part 1, 250ml (will dilute to 1 Ltrs of fluid)

To my understanding, you mix 250ml concentrate with 1L of distilled water and that makes a total of 1250mL of solution. In your video guide though, it says mix the 250mL concentrate with 750mL of water to make 1L of solution. So which is which?

2) If I have only 1 x 360mm HWLabs GTS uFlow and 1 x 280mm HWLabs GTS xFlow rads, how much concentrate should I use to create a cleaning solution? I would want to save the concentrate (unmixed) for future use if possible.

3) In the same video guide, it says to make sure that there is no air in the radiator. How do I do that? Does that mean I should fill the radiator until the solution overflows out of the ports?

4) When the radiators are filled, how many minutes do I need to shake them for before leaving them for 12 hours? How much force should I use to shake them?


----------



## fx3861

Need help, does the 5 litre bottle of Mayhems X1 Clear needs to be diluted or it can be used straight from the container since there's not mentioning of the mixing ratio?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Need help, does the 5 litre bottle of Mayhems X1 Clear needs to be diluted or it can be used straight from the container since there's not mentioning of the mixing ratio?


Hi there

If you are bought 5L container of the X1 Clear then you shouldn't dilute this as is already mixed and can be used straight from container

If you are bought 250ml version of the X1 then you should dilute this with distilled or deionized water(750ml), which in yours case this doesn't apply and you can use X1 straight from container

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## ckoons1

I got some new rads and did mayhem blitz 1 on the rads and am now doing mayhems blitz 2 on the entire loop and notice it isn't foaming very much.
Is that ok?
Thank you


----------



## Eagle2508

I used Pt2 recently and I had the same, it foamed a small amount but not too much...


----------



## ckoons1

Pt2 ?

Did it work ?


----------



## Eagle2508

I think so... lol hard to know


----------



## ckoons1

Any other opinions gang ?

Thank you

Is it working if it isn't foaming ?


----------



## 414347

.


----------



## ckoons1

well after 15 hours I started to drain and re place the fluid then it started foaming.

mmm.. interesting. Oh well I'll let it run some more now that we have foaming lol..


----------



## 414347

.


----------



## TradeCraft

New to the Forum.

Few Quick Questions:
Building a dual loop Tower 900 build and want to do a Ying Yang themed build

One loop White & One loop Black

Looking at EK Acrylic piping and pumps with Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper X-Flow 360mm Radiators.

What fluids would you recommend for best Black and White loops

Any advice is appreciated.

Thank you


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Mayhems pastel white is my vote. No exp with black.

TCO


----------



## TradeCraft

Thank you


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TradeCraft*
> 
> Thank you


Good luck with the black. I would try distilled water with a dye maybe?

TCO


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TradeCraft*
> 
> New to the Forum.
> 
> Few Quick Questions:
> Building a dual loop Tower 900 build and want to do a Ying Yang themed build
> 
> One loop White & One loop Black
> 
> Looking at EK Acrylic piping and pumps with Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper X-Flow 360mm Radiators.
> 
> What fluids would you recommend for best Black and White loops
> 
> Any advice is appreciated.
> 
> Thank you


I would go pastel white like tco said but as for black dont go pastel go x1 black. It basically looks solid like the pastel. I don't recommend black pastel it's rare to get and hold a good black pastel


----------



## TradeCraft

That is
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I would go pastel white like tco said but as for black dont go pastel go x1 black. It basically looks solid like the pastel. I don't recommend black pastel it's rare to get and hold a good black pastel


That is what i have been reading and why i asked.

Want to try and get as true and deep white and black as i can.

Each loop will be offset with opposite color fittings. White Fill with Black EK HDC and Black fill with White EK HDC


----------



## Importz2k1

Hello everyone. New to the forum and also to water cooling. I have an odd question. I have a huge rap around porch, and for some reason Fed Ex decided to leave my fluids around back. I'm in PA, so when my package was finally discovered, everything is frozen solid...... Is it safe to use once it thaws?


----------



## TradeCraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I would go pastel white like tco said but as for black dont go pastel go x1 black.


Would i need to add any anit fungal additive (PT NUKE) or silver to either of these?


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckoons1*
> 
> well after 15 hours I started to drain and re place the fluid then it started foaming.
> 
> mmm.. interesting. Oh well I'll let it run some more now that we have foaming lol..


It's not going to foam a whole lot if it's not getting air pumped into it. So, when your loop is running, you're not constantly introducing air into the system, but when you drain it, you are, hence the foaming.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TradeCraft*
> 
> Would i need to add any anit fungal additive (PT NUKE) or silver to either of these?


Pastel and x1 both have everything in them that you need nothing else needed. (And hat goes for both concentrate and pre mixed. ). I prefer concentrate as I usually do alittle more concentrate than they recommend ( they say 750 ml distilled to 250 concentrate but I usually do 500 distilled than add distilled until I feel needed. Mainly to keep the color nice and dark or white )depending the color) edit: if you are using pets or soft tubing remember to get regular pastel not extreme pastel and x1
And not xt1. If you are using glass or acrylic it doesn't matter but pets and soft tubing depending on the brand will degrade the tubing over the time whe. Used wtb extreme pastel or xt1


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Importz2k1*
> 
> Hello everyone. New to the forum and also to water cooling. I have an odd question. I have a huge rap around porch, and for some reason Fed Ex decided to leave my fluids around back. I'm in PA, so when my package was finally discovered, everything is frozen solid...... Is it safe to use once it thaws?


I don't see why not.

TCO


----------



## TradeCraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Pastel and x1 both have everything in them that you need nothing else needed. (And hat goes for both concentrate and pre mixed. ). I prefer concentrate as I usually do alittle more concentrate than they recommend ( they say 750 ml distilled to 250 concentrate but I usually do 500 distilled than add distilled until I feel needed. Mainly to keep the color nice and dark or white )depending the color) edit: if you are using pets or soft tubing remember to get regular pastel not extreme pastel and x1
> And not xt1. If you are using glass or acrylic it doesn't matter but pets and soft tubing depending on the brand will degrade the tubing over the time whe. Used wtb extreme pastel or xt1


Thank you again for the help


----------



## KCDC

Guess their site is down?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCDC*
> 
> Guess their site is down?


No their website or site is OK there and working

https://www.mayhems.net

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## KCDC

awesome, thank you, google was pointing me to the co.uk version.


----------



## KCDC

So I'm about to order a bunch of the glass tubing directly from mayhems since no one in the states has the 90 degree bends in 12mm. Any promo codes active right now? Shipping is quite a bit!


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> Originally Posted by emsj86 View Post
> 
> Pastel and x1 both have everything in them that you need nothing else needed. (And hat goes for both concentrate and pre mixed. ). I prefer concentrate as I usually do alittle more concentrate than they recommend ( they say 750 ml distilled to 250 concentrate but I usually do 500 distilled than add distilled until I feel needed. Mainly to keep the color nice and dark or white )depending the color) edit: if you are using pets or soft tubing remember to get regular pastel not extreme pastel and x1
> And not xt1. If you are using glass or acrylic it doesn't matter but pets and soft tubing depending on the brand will degrade the tubing over the time whe. Used wtb extreme pastel or xt1


Quote:


> I don't see why not.


I wouldn't be 100% sure, some of the ingredients that are been used to make the formulas can be negatively effected e.g. lose their originally chemical properties and might be useless I would ask Mayhems directly, he would /should know that.

Its like frozen meat, once thaw you shouldn't freeze it again as its losses absolutely all valuable nutrients


----------



## Importz2k1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewUser16*
> 
> I wouldn't be 100% sure, some of the ingredients that are been used to make the formulas can be negatively effected e.g. lose their originally chemical properties and might be useless I would ask Mayhems directly, he would /should know that.
> 
> Its like frozen meat, once thaw you shouldn't freeze it again as its losses absolutely all valuable nutrients


Ok will do, thanks.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TradeCraft*
> 
> New to the Forum.
> 
> Few Quick Questions:
> Building a dual loop Tower 900 build and want to do a Ying Yang themed build
> 
> One loop White & One loop Black
> 
> Looking at EK Acrylic piping and pumps with Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper X-Flow 360mm Radiators.
> 
> What fluids would you recommend for best Black and White loops
> 
> Any advice is appreciated.
> 
> Thank you


I have used Pastel Black with soft tubing and it didn't look good. Switched to Pastel White which looks awesome.
I too recommend Pastel White for (doh!) white but Pastel Black is not recommended by me.


----------



## Taylorious

Is there an updated compatibility chart for Mayhem's coolants? Did the monsoon PETG that was tested last year end up being stable with XT-1 Nuke? I know the MNPCTECH stuff was compatible on the chart released previously, but I am finding it hard to find that tubing. I obviously could just use acrylic but I am curious as to results-- Fluid temp will be < 30 C.


----------



## ckoons1

if my ph is good do I still need to add biocide extreme or will it lower it too much?

thank you.

greatly appreciate your help


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylorious*
> 
> Is there an updated compatibility chart for Mayhem's coolants? Did the monsoon PETG that was tested last year end up being stable with XT-1 Nuke? I know the MNPCTECH stuff was compatible on the chart released previously, but I am finding it hard to find that tubing. I obviously could just use acrylic but I am curious as to results-- Fluid temp will be < 30 C.


Welcome to OCN!

This is the most recent chart that I'm aware of http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club/14630#post_25969014


----------



## Taylorious

There is a more recent chart on page 1503 of this thread, as well as a few comments by Mayhem's implying the Monsoon PEGT may have past testing for use with xt-1 nuke. I may try it and just suffer the consequences if it doesnt work out. I have some MNPCTECH petg, but possibly not enough to do the build I am working on. The only reason I wanted to use the Monsoon is becuase I have it. A poor reason perhaps, but Mayhem's seemed to imply the results of the testing were positive in post on page 1515 from back in july.


----------



## 414347

Quote:


> if my ph is good do I still need to add biocide extreme or will it lower it too much?
> 
> thank you.
> 
> greatly appreciate your help


PH has very little to do with what Biocide is meant for.. . I believe PH is measured to help minimized chemical reaction with other metals on the other had, Biocide making your liquid Acidic which prevents any micro bacteria from growing.

So, if your water is 7PH slightly more or less, you still add 1 drop of Biocide per 1L ONLY no more than that, if your water is 8PH I would add 1 drop per 1L and test it and if its close to 7.5 slightly more or less I would leave it at that and just add another single drop of Biocide per 1L of your liquid in your loop(s) after 2 months no earlier than that, regardless of your PH level to make sure Biocide is still active.

You can go on that way up to a year without changing water by just adding single drop of Biocide to your loop(s) every 2 months, than replace your liquid.

Remember!!! its better to have less of Biocide than to much, single drop is very powerful, single drop *ONLY* per 1L


----------



## ckoons1

thank you


----------



## HeyThereGuy

Any experience with the Mayhem's Pastel Dark Grey? Does it hold color well? Thanks!


----------



## Craigk19

pulled the trigger last night and bought blitz pro kit and 1 liter of uv green pastel! hoping the green is close enough to my atomic green sleeving and fan colors so i dont have to buy some dyes to get it closer to color! wont be using any black lights so uv isnt that big of deal at the moment


----------



## DarthBaggins

Can't wait to get my tubing run so I can prep Project Gray Scale for the Light Gray Pastel:


----------



## KCDC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Can't wait to get my tubing run so I can prep Project Gray Scale for the Light Gray Pastel:


For a second there, I thought your EK 1080ti front fascia had the LEDs everyone's been waiting on! Then realized it was just a reflection. It's a reflection right??


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yes that's just a reflection lol
But it would be nice to have that part lit up


----------



## TradeCraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Pastel and x1 both have everything in them that you need nothing else needed. (And hat goes for both concentrate and pre mixed. ). I prefer concentrate as I usually do alittle more concentrate than they recommend ( they say 750 ml distilled to 250 concentrate but I usually do 500 distilled than add distilled until I feel needed. Mainly to keep the color nice and dark or white )depending the color) edit: if you are using pets or soft tubing remember to get regular pastel not extreme pastel and x1
> And not xt1. If you are using glass or acrylic it doesn't matter but pets and soft tubing depending on the brand will degrade the tubing over the time whe. Used wtb extreme pastel or xt1


So no issue if i was using normal Pastel and X1, if wanted to run EK soft tubing in the back of the case for ease?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TradeCraft*
> 
> So no issue if i was using normal Pastel and X1, if wanted to run EK soft tubing in the back of the case for ease?


Nope good to go


----------



## Eatdamuffin

Hey so I'm about to build my first custom loop. I've bought Mayhems Pastel Red. I have an EK-Supremacy MX CPU Waterblock Plexi Hardware Labs 360GTS rad, Heatkiller 150mm Res, Swiftech Pump with Bitspower pump cover/modkit, using Barrow 16mm OD PETG tubing, and Barrow Fittings (Man typing that all out I really hit every company)... Anyways ideally I'd like to keep the fluid in for a year unless I need to change it because of an issue. 

My plan to clean the loop is the following...

1. Use distilled white vinegar on the rad, pour it in, shake it about a ton. Drain it, fill it back up. Seal it off with my stop fittings and let it sit for 12-14 hours overnight.

2. Shake it again, then drain the white vinegar. Hook it up to my bathroom tap, run lukewarm tap water on a "lower flow not full power" through it for an hour.

3. Rinse and shake several times with distilled water, use paper towels to check if there's any visible particulates as I drain it.

4. Install the rad, build my loop which is only a CPU loop. 

5. Leak test and clean out everything else in the loop with Blitz Kit Part 2 for a full 24 hours. Bought the Basic Blitz Kit which I think is only Part 2 correct?

6. Drain it from my loop with from my drain section.

7. Fill it up with Mayhems Pastel Red, going to do another brief leak test with the final fluid in then just observe for a few weeks to see if anything changes, leaks etc.

Is that a good plan to ensure everything in my loop is clean and to ensure viability of my fluid? Anything else I should do or add? Any other tips?


----------



## crappy

Would you recommend putting some blitz pt2 through brand new blocks? Blocks in question are a heatkiller IV full copper block and an aquaero block. I've got blitz running through my loop now before putting in some new orange pastel, possibly with some aurora silver booster.


----------



## KCDC

crappy said:


> Would you recommend putting some blitz pt2 through brand new blocks? Blocks in question are a heatkiller IV full copper block and an aquaero block. I've got blitz running through my loop now before putting in some new orange pastel, possibly with some aurora silver booster.


Just want to make sure, you're not running blitz part 1 through your entire loop are you? That's just meant for your radiators. Could do damage to loop components.


----------



## crappy

KCDC said:


> Just want to make sure, you're not running blitz part 1 through your entire loop are you? That's just meant for your radiators. Could do damage to loop components.


No just part 2. Just finished draining before filling back up with some deionised water for a rinse (or 3). Thanks for checking though.


----------



## kevindd992002

So when you pour the Blitz Part 1 inside the rads, how do you "vent any trapped air by tilting" (as per instructions)? Do you pour and then tilt and then pour again and tilt? Wouldn't that spill the liquid? 

Or pour until full and then the cap woth stop fittings and then tilt?

And can any stop fittings that you use still be useable for the entire loop? Or should I set aside only for cleaning because it was already subjected to dangerous chemicals?


----------



## 414347

With blitz #1 you don't need to worry about the air, just fill it and if you have old plug, you can close it and give a little shake, than open and let it sit for few hours.

The only time that you might want to think about the air is when you using part #2.

Tilt your system 1 way or the other but honestly I don't even do that, and I've used Blitz #2 for few years with super good results. When you flashing the whole system with part #2 and you will leave it run it long enough (12-24hours) air will escape.

You can reuse the same plugs that were used with part#2, if you are using part #1, the acid it will strip nickel or tarnish your copper enough that I wouldn't use it afterwards.


----------



## kevindd992002

NewUser16 said:


> With blitz #1 you don't need to worry about the air, just fill it and if you have old plug, you can close it and give a little shake, than open and let it sit for few hours.
> 
> The only time that you might want to think about the air is when you using part #2.
> 
> Tilt your system 1 way or the other but honestly I don't even do that, and I've used Blitz #2 for few years with super good results. When you flashing the whole system with part #2 and you will leave it run it long enough (12-24hours) air will escape.
> 
> You can reuse the same plugs that were used with part#2, if you are using part #1, the acid it will strip nickel or tarnish your copper enough that I wouldn't use it afterwards.


Thanks.

1. Why does the manual for part 1 recommend to get rid of the air though?
2. I don't have any old plugs because this is my first watercooling build. Are there cheap plugs that I can buy just for the sake of using them for cleaning? The stop fittings are too expensive if they will just be used for cleaning anyway.
3. What do you mean "You can reuse the same plugs that were used with part#2, if you are using part #1"? Do you mean you CAN'T?
4. Is it of paramount importance to not spill any of the part 1 acid on the outside of the rad when using filling it?
5. When do I stop filling the rad with part 1, once it overflows or what?


----------



## 414347

As effective is Mayhems products are and they are great, he really should be more specific on his brochures/manual. 

1. You can close the radiator with any plug and shake if you feel better to ensure that every square" of inner rad is covered with part#1, but in reality, if you have a small bubble somewhere along the way it's not going to make a big difference in Blitz#1 effectiveness, it will eat the remains of any flux or lose particles that needs to be cleaned. He should just add that it's advisable to get all air out, but it's not absolutely necessary.

e.g. in manual when using part #2 it tells you to flush it few times (3-4 times) but truthfully, that is inadequate amount of times if you are going to use fancy pastel or other exotic colors, it should be at least 5-6 times min. I believe, that if any amount of part#2 will remain behind, it might have negative effect (premature color change) if you into Distilled only, it's no big deal, he should add that to his manual as well.

2. Part#1 is a strong acid, it will eat nickel and anything on its way I wouldn't use this plugs again. It's OK to have the same plugs reused in your system if you use them only with Part#2, its cleaning "shampoo" it will not harm nickel or other metals. I use part#2 annually to clean my system with all the same plugs intact, they need cleaning as well. 

In 3 years I believe I never took any of my components apart, just used Blitz#2 annually and after that time I took 2 of my GPU blocks apart to see the results, whether the part#2 works or not .............blocks looked like brand, this stuff works magic.

3. Its answered 

4. Its acid, it will harm your rads paint, whatever is used on the exterior.

5. Just like with the air scenario, once you fill your rad it will do its job, unless the air bubble is so big that it takes half the rads inner space then you will see it dropping down substantially, other than that leave it for several hours and its good enough.


----------



## Deedaz

kevindd992002 said:


> Thanks.
> 
> 1. Why does the manual for part 1 recommend to get rid of the air though?
> 2. I don't have any old plugs because this is my first watercooling build. Are there cheap plugs that I can buy just for the sake of using them for cleaning? The stop fittings are too expensive if they will just be used for cleaning anyway.
> 3. What do you mean "You can reuse the same plugs that were used with part#2, if you are using part #1"? Do you mean you CAN'T?
> 4. Is it of paramount importance to not spill any of the part 1 acid on the outside of the rad when using filling it?
> 5. When do I stop filling the rad with part 1, once it overflows or what?


As far as spilling the acid on the outside, just keep a wet cloth/papertowel next to you and wipe up any spills immediately. It's not strong enough to cause instant damage, but get it cleaned up quick. I usually give mine a quck rinse under the faucet too, then dry them off.


----------



## kevindd992002

Deedaz said:


> As far as spilling the acid on the outside, just keep a wet cloth/papertowel next to you and wipe up any spills immediately. It's not strong enough to cause instant damage, but get it cleaned up quick. I usually give mine a quck rinse under the faucet too, then dry them off.


Quick rinse after the whole cleaning process? I can't do that here in our country because tap water here is not as clean as what people have in the US. Tap water is not potable so I'm left to using distilled water for every watercooling job.


----------



## Craigk19

Could some one confirm for me that mayhem has two different greens? i ordered a premixed 1lt of uv green from mayhem directly and then after getting it realized i needed about 1500ml total so i put in an overnight order to performance-pc.com for a concentrate of uv green once it came in it just said pastel green and i i thought maybe after i mixed it would match well not the case at all can someone confirm? when i reached out to performance pc they said that mayhem changes their names a lot and that i could possibly be uv green. i sent them pictures as well and they are reaching out to mayhem directly and will refund me if mayhem confirms that it was not uv green.


----------



## 414347

kevindd992002 said:


> Quick rinse after the whole cleaning process? I can't do that here in our country because tap water here is not as clean as what people have in the US. Tap water is not potable so I'm left to using distilled water for every watercooling job.


Just don't worry about going right to the rim and you shouldn't have any issues and like the poster above Deedaz said, wipe it off with wet towel if rinsing is not possible, its not like is going to eat your rads surface instantly, just don't leave it sitting for to long.


----------



## Kamrooz

Holy Bountiful Bubbles Batman......Every rinse, More bubbles after part 2. I'm on like, my 8th flush. Still bubbles. It doesn't look like there's any, but if I shake the bucket and let the water impact around the sides, after two seconds I see, and hear the snap crackle of bubbles coating more than half of the top of the water. How many flushes does it take?! =O.


----------



## 414347

Kamrooz said:


> Holy Bountiful Bubbles Batman......Every rinse, More bubbles after part 2. I'm on like, my 8th flush. Still bubbles. It doesn't look like there's any, but if I shake the bucket and let the water impact around the sides, after two seconds I see, and hear the snap crackle of bubbles coating more than half of the top of the water. How many flushes does it take?! =O.


Yes, part#2 needs to be flashed more than manual tells you to, I normally flash it between 7-10 times, each time 20 min and its all good. At some point you will still see bubbles but those aren't from Blitz, they are from turbulence and you can ignore them, they will go away.

However you go about your flushes, rest assure that if you flash it between the amounts I stated above there will be no remains of the blitz behind , your system will be sparkle clean and you can fill your loop with your favorite liquid


----------



## Kamrooz

NewUser16 said:


> Yes, part#2 needs to be flashed more than manual tells you to, I normally flash it between 7-10 times, each time 20 min and its all good. At some point you will still see bubbles but those aren't from Blitz, they are from turbulence and you can ignore them, they will go away.
> 
> However you go about your flushes, rest assure that if you flash it between the amounts I stated above there will be no remains of the blitz behind , your system will be sparkle clean and you can fill your loop with your favorite liquid


Good to know. I doubt it's just from turbulence though. As just pouring distilled water into the bucket and doing the same barely has any popping sounds or bubbles. Whereas the water from the loop definitely has the sound and visual representation of a left over soap. Going to keep flushing. =P


----------



## 414347

Kamrooz said:


> Good to know. I doubt it's just from turbulence though. As just pouring distilled water into the bucket and doing the same barely has any popping sounds or bubbles. Whereas the water from the loop definitely has the sound and visual representation of a left over soap. Going to keep flushing. =P


This is my 3 or 4-th year of using Blitz#2. I use it annually and I have tested this product for its effectiveness since it first came out which I think was 4 years ago. I have very big and complex system, all hard tubing, even in the basement and behind scenes where you can't see it, why having soft tubing and allow any even possibility of plasticizer buildup, or have limitation to what liquid you can use because of the flex tubing somewhere in the line, hard acrylic or glass is the only way to go.

Anyways, my system runs 24/7 /360 days a rear, the few days is for maintenance and that includes Blitz #2 and check for any issues. Blitz #2 is so effective that you can avoid disassembly of any of your components and unlike some ppl will annually take their system apart to clean it, I have evaluated this product and its effectiveness for the past few years and after running my system 3 years straight and after that time taking 2 of my blocks apart, they were looking like brand new, that's why I can say blitz #2 is awesome" but!!!

There is one thing that I never kook foreword and that is the flashing, but you only doing this once per year, at least that's what I do.

The flashing takes a long time and by now I can distinguish bubbles created by Blitz or simply tiny air bubbles that will hang for a while, whether they are made by turbulent or just trapped air, it doesn't matter, but they will go away.

I've seen complex systems e.g. dual loops 3-4 GPU blocks 2 CPU's, ton of tubing...Mine is one of those systems that have a little bit more than that, it takes about 1-2 months to fully bleed with all 4 D5 Pumps ruining at 4200RPM, so and when I'm flashing my system after using blitz #2, I'm using only 2 pumps, takes about 7-10 times of flashes and Blitz is 99% gone.

If you using only Distilled or dies than you don't need to worry about getting every bit of the Blitz #2 out, but if you using pastel than its very good idea to get all out and like I said, if your loop is not that complex 6-7 times each 15-20 min. and you are good.


----------



## Goofy Flow

My build just finished, if you guys are interested let me know in my log thread:

http://www.overclock.net/forum/26709233-post113.html

Here just a couple of Pics...


----------



## 414347

I am not a small form factor fan but this build is done so tastefully, It's gorges. The layout of the components is so proportional and the color scheme its just spot on.

I give my big Thumbs Up.


----------



## KCDC

Goofy Flow said:


> My build just finished, if you guys are interested let me know in my log thread:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/26709233-post113.html
> 
> Here just a couple of Pics...
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Awesome build! Love the custom case work.


----------



## KCDC

My first rigid tube build using Mayhems glass tubing. Out of the seven 90 degree pieces purchased, one was slightly over 12mm that it wouldn't fit in the fittings, kinda sucks since it cost so much to have them shipped here. Used Phanteks fittings. Fit perfectly! My new favorite fittings. Last step..haha, right.. is to get other custom cables, the cablemods came bent as you can see in the gpu cables, just enough that it really bugs me. Can't decide on color combos yet. Also waiting on Mod One to get the full coverage cable combs back in stock.


----------



## kevindd992002

NewUser16 said:


> As effective is Mayhems products are and they are great, he really should be more specific on his brochures/manual.
> 
> 1. You can close the radiator with any plug and shake if you feel better to ensure that every square" of inner rad is covered with part#1, but in reality, if you have a small bubble somewhere along the way it's not going to make a big difference in Blitz#1 effectiveness, it will eat the remains of any flux or lose particles that needs to be cleaned. He should just add that it's advisable to get all air out, but it's not absolutely necessary.
> 
> e.g. in manual when using part #2 it tells you to flush it few times (3-4 times) but truthfully, that is inadequate amount of times if you are going to use fancy pastel or other exotic colors, it should be at least 5-6 times min. I believe, that if any amount of part#2 will remain behind, it might have negative effect (premature color change) if you into Distilled only, it's no big deal, he should add that to his manual as well.
> 
> 2. Part#1 is a strong acid, it will eat nickel and anything on its way I wouldn't use this plugs again. It's OK to have the same plugs reused in your system if you use them only with Part#2, its cleaning "shampoo" it will not harm nickel or other metals. I use part#2 annually to clean my system with all the same plugs intact, they need cleaning as well.
> 
> In 3 years I believe I never took any of my components apart, just used Blitz#2 annually and after that time I took 2 of my GPU blocks apart to see the results, whether the part#2 works or not .............blocks looked like brand, this stuff works magic.
> 
> 3. Its answered
> 
> 4. Its acid, it will harm your rads paint, whatever is used on the exterior.
> 
> 5. Just like with the air scenario, once you fill your rad it will do its job, unless the air bubble is so big that it takes half the rads inner space then you will see it dropping down substantially, other than that leave it for several hours and its good enough.


Sorry, I missed your post. Thanks for the help.

Do you need to fill the rad with part 1 until it touches the threads of the ports or just before the liquid touches so that you still have room to close them with stop fittings?

Also, as per the instructions you should leave the stop fittings installed when you leave the liquid inside the rad for the couple of hours. In your post here: http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1286896-mayhems-users-club-1573.html#post26683633 you said to open the ports after shaking and leave the rad for a few hours. Which is more correct and why?


----------



## 414347

kevindd992002 said:


> Sorry, I missed your post. Thanks for the help.
> 
> Do you need to fill the rad with part 1 until it touches the threads of the ports or just before the liquid touches so that you still have room to close them with stop fittings?
> 
> Also, as per the instructions you should leave the stop fittings installed when you leave the liquid inside the rad for the couple of hours. In your post here: http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1286896-mayhems-users-club-1573.html#post26683633 you said to open the ports after shaking and leave the rad for a few hours. Which is more correct and why?


Either way will be fine, leave it open or keep it closed it really doesn't matter. I think keeping it closed its just a precaution so you don't bum pit and spill it or to avoid smelling the acid while might be evaporating, but honestly, it doesn't really matter which way you decide to do it, It will do its job whether you fill it right to the rim or not.


----------



## Craigk19

Just about done wrapping up my build using Mayhem's Pastel UV Green get the uv lights in tomorrow but looking good already!


----------



## bern43

Just mixed and put some x1 clear into my loop. The concentrate was yellowish, not clear. I assumed that the yellow would go away once mixed and in the system. But it hasn't. Sent a message to pppcs, which is where I ordered it from. Anyone else have this issue? I'm assuming I'm going to have to completely flush the yellowish coolant out and replace with new.

Also, mixed the concentrate per the instructions on the bottle 250 ml of the concentrate and 750 ml of distilled for 1 ltr. But the instructions on Mayhems state that it should make 2 ltrs? Which is correct? So far, not incredibly happy.


----------



## Craigk19

And finally with the UV lights on it turned out way better than i thought it woulld woot woot!


----------



## 414347

Craigk19 said:


> And finally with the UV lights on it turned out way better than i thought it woulld woot woot!


Wow! that looks amazing, nicely done.


----------



## Goofy Flow

Craigk19 said:


> And finally with the UV lights on it turned out way better than i thought it woulld woot woot!



Love that glow!


----------



## Craigk19

Thank you guys very much! i honestly have never been a fan of the uv lights and glow effects of builds only reason i did add the uv into my build was the case was way to dark to admire the build. While looking for rgb lights that wouldn't over illuminate the case i found cablemods wide-beam hybrid kits. and thought why not i can just turn off the rgb if it becomes to much. Came in messing around only had the uv on and thought okay that looks way cool in person and now i cant stop looking at it didnt realize the paint i used on the screws and fans along with the mdpc sleeving was uv reactive and i LOVE IT now!


----------



## war4peace

I'm not able to see the image, I see a transparent rectangle with a forbidden gray sign on it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Same here, just thought it was something with my AV/network security


----------



## kevindd992002

@NewUser16

For the radiators, here's what I did yesterday:

1. Got the Black Ice Nemesis GTS 280mm Xflow and GTS 360mm Uflow brand new out of the box.
2. Flushed each of them (filled and shaked the hell out of them) with distilled water for around two times.
3. Used Blitz Part 1
4. Rinse with distilled water for 4 times each.

Are they squeaky clean now?


----------



## fx3861

kevindd992002 said:


> @NewUser16
> 
> For the radiators, here's what I did yesterday:
> 
> 1. Got the Black Ice Nemesis GTS 280mm Xflow and GTS 360mm Uflow brand new out of the box.
> 2. Flushed each of them (filled and shaked the hell out of them) with distilled water for around two times.
> 3. Used Blitz Part 1
> 4. Rinse with distilled water for 4 times each.
> 
> Are they squeaky clean now?


Considering you got it frm hardware labs, they got the most cleanest rads out from the box. Most would say so. Yup its squeky clean now. Just need a run for blitz 2.


----------



## kevindd992002

fx3861 said:


> Considering you got it frm hardware labs, they got the most cleanest rads out from the box. Most would say so. Yup its squeky clean now. Just need a run for blitz 2.


Yes, that's what I heard too. Right, I'll try and finish my loop ASAP and do a Blitz 2 run after.


----------



## kevindd992002

Sorry for the double post.

By the way, is it normal for the Blitz Part 1 solution to initially have a little bit of bubbles? When I opened the Blitz 1 bottle, it also had bubbles in it so I thought mixing it with the water naturally will also have bubbles in it. Here's a reference pic:


----------



## jvillaveces

kevindd992002 said:


> Sorry for the double post.
> 
> By the way, is it normal for the Blitz Part 1 solution to initially have a little bit of bubbles? When I opened the Blitz 1 bottle, it also had bubbles in it so I thought mixing it with the water naturally will also have bubbles in it. Here's a reference pic:


Yes, it’s entirely normal, don’t worry about it. Part 2 is also pretty foamy. After you flush it from your rad when it has done its job it won’t matter.


----------



## kevindd992002

jvillaveces said:


> Yes, it’s entirely normal, don’t worry about it. Part 2 is also pretty foamy. After you flush it from your rad when it has done its job it won’t matter.


Great, thanks! I just didn't know if I had to worry because the tutorial video posted in Mayhems video for the part 1 did not show any bubbles at all.


----------



## fx3861

Roughly what pump speed does aurora work best with? and yes i know it not for long term usage but i guess i love the looks of it swirling around and at least its not picky as vue+..???


----------



## Juris

Sorry to ask a question which has probably been asked 100 times before but the search function isn't working for me (just responding 'phrase1') but can I just add Mayhems Pastel Extreme pastel white to my loop already filled with new distilled water instead of having to drain and mix it outside the system. To me it sounds like it shouldn't make a difference but wanted to check first. Cheers.


----------



## MNMadman

Juris said:


> Sorry to ask a question which has probably been asked 100 times before but the search function isn't working for me (just responding 'phrase1') but can I just add Mayhems Pastel Extreme pastel white to my loop already filled with new distilled water instead of having to drain and mix it outside the system. To me it sounds like it shouldn't make a difference but wanted to check first. Cheers.


I'm guessing it would be better to mix outside to get the right concentration but you can probably give it a go, assuming you know approximately how much water your loop holds. You'll need to drain some water out so the concentrate can take its place.


----------



## Deedaz

fx3861 said:


> Roughly what pump speed does aurora work best with? and yes i know it not for long term usage but i guess i love the looks of it swirling around and at least its not picky as vue+..???


I always ran higher speeds with mine, 4-5 on a vario. You also want to take out any jetplates in your block, avoid 90 degree fittings, and if possible, have the fluid return at the top of the res.

In some ways its less picky than vue, but does have more limitations imo. With aurora you kind of have to design the loop to work with the fluid, with vue you have to do some extreme cleaning and limited use. If done right, both products work well.


----------



## fx3861

Juris said:


> Sorry to ask a question which has probably been asked 100 times before but the search function isn't working for me (just responding 'phrase1') but can I just add Mayhems Pastel Extreme pastel white to my loop already filled with new distilled water instead of having to drain and mix it outside the system. To me it sounds like it shouldn't make a difference but wanted to check first. Cheers.


Unless its just a dye then yes yer can do so but since its a pastel, best to drain and mix accordance to its instructions.


----------



## fx3861

Deedaz said:


> I always ran higher speeds with mine, 4-5 on a vario. You also want to take out any jetplates in your block, avoid 90 degree fittings, and if possible, have the fluid return at the top of the res.
> 
> In some ways its less picky than vue, but does have more limitations imo. With aurora you kind of have to design the loop to work with the fluid, with vue you have to do some extreme cleaning and limited use. If done right, both products work well.


Thanks for the info, was thinking of geting some mica powder as a subtitute. Roughly 50-100 micron size possible to flow through the fins?


----------



## Juris

Thanks MNMadman and fx3861 for the help. Bit confused now with the conflicting opinions. I know my In Win 909 build takes around 1.1L so that should be about 55ml of Pastel to get the job done. Draining it has proved to be complete pita (even with a drain valve at the lowest loop point) and I was thinking since I've already made sure there is no air left in the system adding the Pastel straight in now would be the better idea.


----------



## KCDC

Juris said:


> Thanks MNMadman and fx3861 for the help. Bit confused now with the conflicting opinions. I know my In Win 909 build takes around 1.1L so that should be about 55ml of Pastel to get the job done. Draining it has proved to be complete pita (even with a drain valve at the lowest loop point) and I was thinking since I've already made sure there is no air left in the system adding the Pastel straight in now would be the better idea.



You can always get a cheap vac/blower and blow the rest of the fluid out from a point in your loop. Works for me!


----------



## zerophase

Does anyone know the shelf life of Mayhems Blitz Pro part 2? I've had an open bottle of it sitting in my cabinet for the past 2 years. About to use it to clean the system, but just want to make sure it's still effective.


----------



## crappy

I've got some aurora booster to add to some pastel orange. It says to add one drop at a time, no more than 5ml to 1litre of coolant. Anyone any idea how many drops is 5 ml?

Edit: never mind, you can see the level of the liquid when holding the bottle up to the light, so will just go till halfway down.


----------



## Revan654

Anyone know what the proper ratio mixing for XT-1 Nuke (100ml Version)?


----------



## Neokolzia

Mayhem said:


> Quote:Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*
> 
> Quote:Originally Posted by *Mayhem*
> 
> 
> Please keep us up to date with any data because it is some thing i would love to find out my self. It would be good for any future reference and understanding.
> 
> 
> So just to give an update, its been about a month I decided to keep the UV lights off besides the little 3mm ones that don't respond to the voltage being tweaked down, though with the development I might unplug those soon, just they aren't causing an issue yet due to low intensity I believe.
> 
> Basically here is an album covering the before and afters.
> https://imgur.com/a/eYNYf
> 
> There has been Massive improvement comparatively over the last 25 days, I was skeptical myself but had wondered if it was nano-particles baked into the side of the acrylic or something like that, or something to do with the dye etc, specially due to the dark color/tone of the burned sections.
> 
> But its seeming likely that its the Pastel Extreme or Pink UV Dye to blame for this issue, and not the bitspower tubing as its "apparently" self healing, which is not a property of acrylic obviously.
> Perhaps this might be something that might need more testing/investigation on your side? I had no idea that Pastel Extreme white would have compatibility issues with UV light, but far as I can tell is exactly what has happened
> 
> There's no visible debris in the loop that I can tell also.
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also upon further inspection there is some form of corrosion forming on what I can at least visible see on the GPU block, where its in direct contact with the fluid (no o'ring)
> 
> https://imgur.com/a/ZjNtR
> 
> Any idea's what might be causing this, the nickle plating coming off?
> 
> The loop is made up of:
> x2 Magicool Brass/Copper Rads (420mm)
> Darkside Brass fittings
> EK D5 Pump
> Nickle/Acetal EK Blocks
> 
> 
> Ref above
> 
> Im going to have to investigate this and get some of there tubing in for testing. Leave this with me ill get some in.
> 
> Ref the flake / pealing ... again that is defo not normal. Problem is with blocks they do discolour once you apply heat but i relay would not like to say. Id ask EK and ask them why its happening.


So a quick update, its been approximately 10 months of Liquid in use since Last May, the Extreme Pastel has now gone semi-translucent, an old image is linked as well for reference of stock color.
The nano-particles seem to have seperated from the solution and are sticking to bends and low flow areas. As visible with the pump showing nearly clear liquid, There has been no change in temps, but I know I need to change the liquid now just "concerned" how much disassembly and cleaning is going to be required to get these pieces back to normal with this sort of issue.

I'm confident Pastel Extreme is to blame for the UV issues, with the particles reacting and separating to the lighting causing the burned look, which might have accelerated the fall out effect. 
I would advise doing your own testing with a Strong UV light (I used Darkside LED's from Canada) and see if get similar results.

Overall I'm definitely a bit disappointed with my choice going with Pastel Extreme, and looking forward for options, as well as cleaning options. My loops design isn't great for running blitz through it as fully emptying/filling it is difficult.


----------



## SteezyTN

Is there a huge difference between concentrated Pastel ice white vs the premix pastel ice white? I’ve been using the concentrate for well over 3 years, and have never had any issues with color changes or changes in the solution. The longest I used it in a continuous time was 1.5 years, maybe 2, and never had any issues. Same with the Concentrate Pastel Red (about a year). I must say though that I’ve done like 2 rinses over the years with the Blitz cleaner, so maybe that may be why the concentrate is doing so well. PPCS is out of the concentrate, and was thinking about the premix... but I hear there are issues with the premix in terms of the consistency of the solution and dissolving, etc. I don’t need the coolant now, but if there isn’t any issues with the premix, I may just get that and change it up a bit.


----------



## 414347

SteezyTN said:


> Is there a huge difference between concentrated Pastel ice white vs the premix pastel ice white? I’ve been using the concentrate for well over 3 years, and have never had any issues with color changes or changes in the solution. The longest I used it in a continuous time was 1.5 years, maybe 2, and never had any issues. Same with the Concentrate Pastel Red (about a year). I must say though that I’ve done like 2 rinses over the years with the Blitz cleaner, so maybe that may be why the concentrate is doing so well. PPCS is out of the concentrate, and was thinking about the premix... but I hear there are issues with the premix in terms of the consistency of the solution and dissolving, etc. I don’t need the coolant now, but if there isn’t any issues with the premix, I may just get that and change it up a bit.


Yes Mayhems Blitz #2 makes a difference in how your coolant reacts to either heat and prolong usage. My nephew under my recommendation used Mayhems Blitz #2 in his system few times and he uses pastel either yellow and now he uses white, this will be his 13 month of pretty heavy use and the while is still pure white, the same thing was with yellow sunset, after I think 2 years it looked the same, while others were complaining about their colors changing within 3-5 months 

I use only distilled with Biocide extreme so I shouldn't care about Blitz, but I use it annually and it keeps my system absolutely sparkles clean


----------



## Neokolzia

@Mayhems

I've now ordered Regular White Pastel, and Blitz, on Bottom of Page 1577 I have a post regarding my experience with Pastel Extreme, albiet that it was poor.

Besides just using the Blitz given the issues that have occurred, and I don't see or wasn't able to find anything about how incompatible extreme and regular pastel are with one another, so I'm wondering if Blitz will be enough or disassembling each rad and cleaning them separately and all the tubing etc.


----------



## kevindd992002

Neokolzia said:


> @Mayhems
> 
> I've now ordered Regular White Pastel, and Blitz, on Bottom of Page 1577 I have a post regarding my experience with Pastel Extreme, albiet that it was poor.
> 
> Besides just using the Blitz given the issues that have occurred, and I don't see or wasn't able to find anything about how incompatible extreme and regular pastel are with one another, so I'm wondering if Blitz will be enough or disassembling each rad and cleaning them separately and all the tubing etc.


File a support ticket in their website to get proper support and please report back 🙂 @Mayhems is no longer as active here as before.


----------



## Neokolzia

kevindd992002 said:


> File a support ticket in their website to get proper support and please report back 🙂 @Mayhems is no longer as active here as before.



Ah they use to be, will do that then, because I still have concerns with what happened with my Pastel Extreme, and they had said they planned to do testing on it.


----------



## kevindd992002

Neokolzia said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> File a support ticket in their website to get proper support and please report back 🙂 @Mayhems is no longer as active here as before.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah they use to be, will do that then, because I still have concerns with what happened with my Pastel Extreme, and they had said they planned to do testing on it.
Click to expand...

Yes, Mick was active here a few months until an internal reorganization in their company took effect. He did say his sort of "goodbyes" here and mentioned that a ticket should he filed if support is needed.


----------



## SteezyTN

Is there a reason why Pastel Extreme won’t work with PETG tubing?


----------



## Neokolzia

SteezyTN said:


> Is there a reason why Pastel Extreme won’t work with PETG tubing?


Pastel Extreme uses Glycol, so it can react with PETG tubing, and shouldn't be used, it will cause softening etc.

Same respect why it can't be used with aluminum components.


----------



## SteezyTN

Does anyone know the difference between the 100ml and 250ml X1 concentrates? I see they are different bottles. Is it the exact same thing, just how much each one can yield total when mixed with water; ie 1L vs 2L?


----------



## kevindd992002

This is my first time building a watercooling loop. So after putting all my brand new parts together (all rads were treated with Part 1), I decided to do a test fill with distilled water just so I know what to expect in filling a loop. I have a drain valve on the bottom of my loop so I easily drained my system but was not able to fill it to 100% without water as it was very hard to get all water out. Here's a pic of my system:

https://i.imgur.com/ElQF5MY.jpg

Since my GPU is vertical, it was very hard to get the water out of there during draining. But I did the best I could.

And so now I'm running Blitz Part 2 in the system and is currently at its 10th hour. I plan on doing the full 24 hours before draining and flushing it again with distilled water. My question is, could've the leftover water inside the loop (before I filled the system with Part 2) dilute the Part 2 mixture rendering it less effective? I'm pretty sure it's just a little bit of water because I already tried tilting my case in every way during the draining process.

Or do you recommend I create another Part 2 solution and do the process all over again? I have a MetroVac Datavac Electric Duster that I can use to probably to completely drain the loop next time but I won't have access to it until tomorrow. I just want to know if you recommend doing this whole Part 2 process all over again or if I'm good not doing it anymore?

I want to get everything right before I pour it with Pastel.

EDIT: I'm hoping you guys can help me out with my problem here too: http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/993624-ek-club-2145.html#post27063665

Thanks!


----------



## azcrazy

What would be the best way to get my loop ready for white pastel after using silver VUE?

take loop a part and rinse with hot water,run vinegar for few hours or there is some I can just drop in the loop that will remove all the ***** vue left behind?


----------



## jvillaveces

azcrazy said:


> What would be the best way to get my loop ready for white pastel after using silver VUE?
> 
> take loop a part and rinse with hot water,run vinegar for few hours or there is some I can just drop in the loop that will remove all the ***** vue left behind?


Use Primochill sysprep, flush with distilled water a couple of times (in my system it took 5 flushes to see clear water), and then use Blitz Part 2.


----------



## jvillaveces

kevindd992002 said:


> This is my first time building a watercooling loop. So after putting all my brand new parts together (all rads were treated with Part 1), I decided to do a test fill with distilled water just so I know what to expect in filling a loop. I have a drain valve on the bottom of my loop so I easily drained my system but was not able to fill it to 100% without water as it was very hard to get all water out. Here's a pic of my system:
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/ElQF5MY.jpg
> 
> Since my GPU is vertical, it was very hard to get the water out of there during draining. But I did the best I could.
> 
> And so now I'm running Blitz Part 2 in the system and is currently at its 10th hour. I plan on doing the full 24 hours before draining and flushing it again with distilled water. My question is, could've the leftover water inside the loop (before I filled the system with Part 2) dilute the Part 2 mixture rendering it less effective? I'm pretty sure it's just a little bit of water because I already tried tilting my case in every way during the draining process.
> 
> Or do you recommend I create another Part 2 solution and do the process all over again? I have a MetroVac Datavac Electric Duster that I can use to probably to completely drain the loop next time but I won't have access to it until tomorrow. I just want to know if you recommend doing this whole Part 2 process all over again or if I'm good not doing it anymore?
> 
> I want to get everything right before I pour it with Pastel.
> 
> EDIT: I'm hoping you guys can help me out with my problem here too: http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/993624-ek-club-2145.html#post27063665
> 
> Thanks!


 I think your situation, where water remains in the system before using Blitz, is pretty common and shouldn't be a concern. Once the Blitz is finished, make sure to flush your loop thoroughly, until absolutely no foam remains, before using your permanent coolant. That will remove any contaminants from the water path and give you the best shot at enjoying your pastel fluid.


----------



## kevindd992002

jvillaveces said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time building a watercooling loop. So after putting all my brand new parts together (all rads were treated with Part 1), I decided to do a test fill with distilled water just so I know what to expect in filling a loop. I have a drain valve on the bottom of my loop so I easily drained my system but was not able to fill it to 100% without water as it was very hard to get all water out. Here's a pic of my system:
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/ElQF5MY.jpg
> 
> Since my GPU is vertical, it was very hard to get the water out of there during draining. But I did the best I could.
> 
> And so now I'm running Blitz Part 2 in the system and is currently at its 10th hour. I plan on doing the full 24 hours before draining and flushing it again with distilled water. My question is, could've the leftover water inside the loop (before I filled the system with Part 2) dilute the Part 2 mixture rendering it less effective? I'm pretty sure it's just a little bit of water because I already tried tilting my case in every way during the draining process.
> 
> Or do you recommend I create another Part 2 solution and do the process all over again? I have a MetroVac Datavac Electric Duster that I can use to probably to completely drain the loop next time but I won't have access to it until tomorrow. I just want to know if you recommend doing this whole Part 2 process all over again or if I'm good not doing it anymore?
> 
> I want to get everything right before I pour it with Pastel.
> 
> EDIT: I'm hoping you guys can help me out with my problem here too: http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/993624-ek-club-2145.html#post27063665
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> I think your situation, where water remains in the system before using Blitz, is pretty common and shouldn't be a concern. Once the Blitz is finished, make sure to flush your loop thoroughly, until absolutely no foam remains, before using your permanent coolant. That will remove any contaminants from the water path and give you the best shot at enjoying your pastel fluid.
Click to expand...

That's what I thought. What's the best way to make sure the loop is completely drained anyway? Is it ok to use a MetroVac Electric Duster to force all the liquid out of the system? It shouldn't build unnecessary pressure inside the system because the loop is not closed while draining. Or am I missing something?

Also, what is your comment regarding my issue here? http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/993624-ek-club-2145.html#post27063665


----------



## azcrazy

jvillaveces said:


> Use Primochill sysprep, flush with distilled water a couple of times (in my system it took 5 flushes to see clear water), and then use Blitz Part 2.


Ordered syprep and system reboot since no one seem to have blitz part 2 or any blitz for that matter


----------



## SteezyTN

azcrazy said:


> jvillaveces said:
> 
> 
> 
> Use Primochill sysprep, flush with distilled water a couple of times (in my system it took 5 flushes to see clear water), and then use Blitz Part 2.
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered syprep and system reboot since no one seem to have blitz part 2 or any blitz for that matter
Click to expand...

I noticed that as well. Wanted some part 2 to change my coolant from pastel to X1, and no one has it. I’ve been looking at Reboot, but it doesn’t have many reviews on it.


----------



## Deedaz

SteezyTN said:


> I noticed that as well. Wanted some part 2 to change my coolant from pastel to X1, and no one has it. I’ve been looking at Reboot, but it doesn’t have many reviews on it.


The reboot actually did a better job at getting dye out of my system. I did a full blitz kit before using it and it got quite a bit. I still think blitz is a better overall cleaner, but I'll probably use both in the future when changing colors since the reboot is pretty cheap.


----------



## jvillaveces

kevindd992002 said:


> That's what I thought. What's the best way to make sure the loop is completely drained anyway? Is it ok to use a MetroVac Electric Duster to force all the liquid out of the system? It shouldn't build unnecessary pressure inside the system because the loop is not closed while draining. Or am I missing something?
> 
> Also, what is your comment regarding my issue here? http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/993624-ek-club-2145.html#post27063665


It should be OK to use a datavac or something like it, but I think it's overkill. I've used pastel successfully several times, and never thought of draining the last bit of water, but never experienced adverse results. Pastel is not Vue, it's a well engineered coolant.

As to disassembling the blocks, I would only do it if you see debris in the waterpath. As long as the block seals properly (PLEASE verify the system is airtight before filling), I would leave it alone. If your OCD gets the best of you and you feel you have to open them even if they're working OK, be very gentle with the o-ring and take your time reassembling.


----------



## kevindd992002

jvillaveces said:


> It should be OK to use a datavac or something like it, but I think it's overkill. I've used pastel successfully several times, and never thought of draining the last bit of water, but never experienced adverse results. Pastel is not Vue, it's a well engineered coolant.
> 
> As to disassembling the blocks, I would only do it if you see debris in the waterpath. As long as the block seals properly (PLEASE verify the system is airtight before filling), I would leave it alone. If your OCD gets the best of you and you feel you have to open them even if they're working OK, be very gentle with the o-ring and take your time reassembling.


Yeah but I already have a Datavac so might as well use it  Are you sure that the quick pressure it creates in the loop won't damage anything? Won't the pump motor spin too fast with the risk of running it dry?

They are airtight (I already tested with Dr. Drop) and I think is really just a cosmetic issue. But algae is algae. I'm OCD, yes, but I don't want anything growing inside any component even before I fill them with Pastel. Disassembling the EK block won't void the warranty, it will just void the "leak-free guarantee" as stated in their website. As for the Cryos Kuplex CPU block, I have to consult Aquacomputer about it before doing anything.


----------



## 414347

kevindd992002 said:


> Yeah but I already have a Datavac so might as well use it  Are you sure that the quick pressure it creates in the loop won't damage anything? Won't the pump motor spin too fast with the risk of running it dry?
> 
> They are airtight (I already tested with Dr. Drop) and I think is really just a cosmetic issue. But algae is algae. I'm OCD, yes, but I don't want anything growing inside any component even before I fill them with Pastel. Disassembling the EK block won't void the warranty, it will just void the "leak-free guarantee" as stated in their website. As for the Cryos Kuplex CPU block, I have to consult Aquacomputer about it before doing anything.


You are absolutely right and that's how I slowly damaged 2 of my pumps. Because of the air your blowing into the pump(s) not only the impeller but also the plastic or whatever that is made of on the main moving part that sits on impeller gets damaged. It wont kill it right away, but the symptoms are that the pump will slow down slowly due to more friction and the RPM will drop significantly.

Keep in mind that if you run your pump on high all the time and in smaller loop, that might not effect your flow or pumps ability to work as normally, but If you have big loop and run your pump on lower RPM to keep it silent, that's when you will kill the pumps ability to start on lower speeds and keep them consistent.

Best way to drain, clean and maintenance your loop is to give an extra flash/rinse and whatever is at the bottom will come out and if some left of Distilled water or DI gets left at the bottom, trust me, it wont have any negative effect on your pastel or other colors, unless your loop design is so unpractical that half of the liquid stay inside while you draining.

I would not recommend using DataVac (that's what I have) or any other high power air blowers for pushing left over of anything from your loop, I used that few times before realizing that my new D5 pumps crapping out one by one


----------



## kevindd992002

NewUser16 said:


> You are absolutely right and that's how I slowly damaged 2 of my pumps. Because of the air your blowing into the pump(s) not only the impeller but also the plastic or whatever that is made of on the main moving part that sits on impeller gets damaged. It wont kill it right away, but the symptoms are that the pump will slow down slowly due to more friction and the RPM will drop significantly.
> 
> I would not recommend using DataVac (that's what I have) or any other high power air blowers for pushing left over of anything from your loop, I used that few times before realizing that my new D5 pumps crapping out one by one


Ok! Now, I'm very glad that I didn't do anything stupid and had the patience for wait for your reply here to confirm my thoughts about using DataVac. I guess not running the pump dry is the most important rule in pc watercooling. And come to think of it, the Dr. Drop pressure test has the same concept of introducing air to the loop to confirm if there are any leaks. Am I correct in assuming that because the air pressure is just small (0.5 bar recommended with a warning of not exceeding a max of 0.6 bar) then it really won't harm anything in the pump?

Also, I did try blowing with my mouth a couple of times yesterday trying to drain the loop completely out of water. I didn't know what to do so I had to try that  Maybe I did it 3 to 5 times and it really didn't take any effect in the draining process. But did that potentially damage the pump or is it considered a low pressure blow that has really no negative effect?

I also read about using ABN Syphon (https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Siphon-S...596973&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=abn+syphon&psc=1) to syphon/suck the liquid out of the loop. What do you think of this method?



NewUser16 said:


> Keep in mind that if you run your pump on high all the time and in smaller loop, that might not effect your flow or pumps ability to work as normally, but If you have big loop and run your pump on lower RPM to keep it silent, that's when you will kill the pumps ability to start on lower speeds and keep them consistent.


Can you explain why is this so? Are you saying that for small loops (which I think mine is), I can run the loop to whichever speed I like (low or high RPM) and not damage the pump or anything? And with complex big loops, you will need to run the pump with a higher RPM so that it won't get damaged?



NewUser16 said:


> Best way to drain, clean and maintenance your loop is to give an extra flash/rinse and whatever is at the bottom will come out and if some left of Distilled water or DI gets left at the bottom, trust me, it wont have any negative effect on your pastel or other colors, unless your loop design is so unpractical that half of the liquid stay inside while you draining.


Yes, actually I'm not worried of the leftover distilled water before I put in the Pastel coolant. My worry is before using the Blitz Part 2. Like I said, the first time I put liquid into my system was yesterday with distilled water and couldn't get everything out. I'm sure I got most of it out as the water was continuously flowing until it stopped at one point. Here's a reference pic (I encircled the areas with leftover distilled water in the system):











My drain is in the lowest part of the loop (between the front rad and the pump outlet port) and looks like this:










Since there is leftover distilled water in there, I'm worried that the when I ran Blitz Part 2 yesterday it got "more diluted" than it's supposed to be and rendered it less effective. What do you think? What's your comment on the drain design of my loop? I'd say it's a pretty typical design, nothing fancy and nothing really wrong with it but you guys are more experienced than I am.


----------



## jvillaveces

kevindd992002 said:


> Yeah but I already have a Datavac so might as well use it  Are you sure that the quick pressure it creates in the loop won't damage anything? Won't the pump motor spin too fast with the risk of running it dry?
> 
> They are airtight (I already tested with Dr. Drop) and I think is really just a cosmetic issue. But algae is algae. I'm OCD, yes, but I don't want anything growing inside any component even before I fill them with Pastel. Disassembling the EK block won't void the warranty, it will just void the "leak-free guarantee" as stated in their website. As for the Cryos Kuplex CPU block, I have to consult Aquacomputer about it before doing anything.


I didn't realize you intended to datavac-blow a full loop. That would probably be a horrible idea, because watercooling parts are specced to withstand 10 psi, and your datavac can create pressure peaks much higher than that, With the system drained, it's not such a problem because air, unlike water, is compressible so your pressures would not rise so much. As to the effect on the pumps, I have no experience of it, but I don't "see" where it might be a problem: the fluid air will push through the pump is not that fast or under enough pressure to create damaging motion, at most a few revolutions. Running a pump dry at 2k - 4.5k rpm is very different than making it spin a few times at a much slower speed.

Anyway, the discussion is probably moot, because in order to clean your blocks the way you want you need to disassemble them, right? So you can datavac each block outside the system, and blow on the rads and res in the system to get rid of any remaining water (although I don't see the point in doing so).


----------



## kevindd992002

jvillaveces said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah but I already have a Datavac so might as well use it /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif Are you sure that the quick pressure it creates in the loop won't damage anything? Won't the pump motor spin too fast with the risk of running it dry?
> 
> They are airtight (I already tested with Dr. Drop) and I think is really just a cosmetic issue. But algae is algae. I'm OCD, yes, but I don't want anything growing inside any component even before I fill them with Pastel. Disassembling the EK block won't void the warranty, it will just void the "leak-free guarantee" as stated in their website. As for the Cryos Kuplex CPU block, I have to consult Aquacomputer about it before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize you intended to datavac-blow a full loop. That would probably be a horrible idea, because watercooling parts are specced to withstand 10 psi, and your datavac can create pressure peaks much higher than that, With the system drained, it's not such a problem because air, unlike water, is compressible so your pressures would not rise so much. As to the effect on the pumps, I have no experience of it, but I don't "see" where it might be a problem: the fluid air will push through the pump is not that fast or under enough pressure to create damaging motion, at most a few revolutions. Running a pump dry at 2k - 4.5k rpm is very different than making it spin a few times at a much slower speed.
> 
> Anyway, the discussion is probably moot, because in order to clean your blocks the way you want you need to disassemble them, right? So you can datavac each block outside the system, and blow on the rads and res in the system to get rid of any remaining water (although I don't see the point in doing so).
Click to expand...

Ok, I kinda want to really understand the technicalities of what you're saying as I want to learn how everything in watercooling works but you kinda lost me there. What's the difference in running a DataVac in a full loop vs. running it in separate loops?

And if air is compressible and water is not, what happens to the pressure inside the loop when air and water is combined?

Also, I will be cleaning my blocks, yes, but won't I need to completely drain the loop before I can take them out of it?


----------



## jvillaveces

kevindd992002 said:


> Ok, I kinda want to really understand the technicalities of what you're saying as I want to learn how everything in watercooling works but you kinda lost me there. What's the difference in running a DataVac in a full loop vs. running it in separate loops?
> 
> And if air is compressible and water is not, what happens to the pressure inside the loop when air and water is combined?


I don't t know about separate loops. I posted about full and empty loops, or blocks. The point I was making is that water is incompressible, so any pressure you introduce to the loop will propagate without loss throughout the entire loop. If that pressure exceeds the tolerance of one or more component, it will break them. Air, on the other hand, is compressible, so extra pressure you introduce to the same loop when it's not filled with coolant will mostly be absorbed by the adjacent mass of air, and the pressure reaching the rest of the components will be significantly lower, and hence, less dangerous, or even safe. I never pressurize my components or loops with more than 5 psi, which is enough to detect any leak but still well within the tolerance of all non-faulty components. In summary, pressurize with air, not fluid; if some fluid is present it's no big deal, but the majority of the loop (or component) volume should be occupied by air, not fluid.

Yes, you should drain your blocks before diassembling them. Of course, you would remove them from your loop before doing so!

Water is moved around inside the system by air, it does not compress. So at the other end of the water mass, you get the same pressure as you exerted on it, said mass remain at the same volume it had before you applied pressure; that's how the brakes in your car work -- the pedal pressurizes fluid in the line, which can't compress, so it displaces a piston at the other end of the line. When you apply pressure to a confined air mass, it will decrease in volume before transmitting the pressure; in a closed loop, the pressure will eventually stabilize as the denser air becomes harder to compress; that's how the tires in your car work.


----------



## 414347

kevindd992002 said:


> Ok! Now, I'm very glad that I didn't do anything stupid and had the patience for wait for your reply here to confirm my thoughts about using DataVac. I guess not running the pump dry is the most important rule in pc watercooling. And come to think of it, the Dr. Drop pressure test has the same concept of introducing air to the loop to confirm if there are any leaks. Am I correct in assuming that because the air pressure is just small (0.5 bar recommended with a warning of not exceeding a max of 0.6 bar) then it really won't harm anything in the pump?
> 
> Also, I did try blowing with my mouth a couple of times yesterday trying to drain the loop completely out of water. I didn't know what to do so I had to try that  Maybe I did it 3 to 5 times and it really didn't take any effect in the draining process. But did that potentially damage the pump or is it considered a low pressure blow that has really no negative effect?
> 
> I also read about using ABN Syphon (https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Siphon-S...596973&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=abn+syphon&psc=1) to syphon/suck the liquid out of the loop. What do you think of this method?
> 
> 
> 
> Can you explain why is this so? Are you saying that for small loops (which I think mine is), I can run the loop to whichever speed I like (low or high RPM) and not damage the pump or anything? And with complex big loops, you will need to run the pump with a higher RPM so that it won't get damaged?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, actually I'm not worried of the leftover distilled water before I put in the Pastel coolant. My worry is before using the Blitz Part 2. Like I said, the first time I put liquid into my system was yesterday with distilled water and couldn't get everything out. I'm sure I got most of it out as the water was continuously flowing until it stopped at one point. Here's a reference pic (I encircled the areas with leftover distilled water in the system):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My drain is in the lowest part of the loop (between the front rad and the pump outlet port) and looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since there is leftover distilled water in there, I'm worried that the when I ran Blitz Part 2 yesterday it got "more diluted" than it's supposed to be and rendered it less effective. What do you think? What's your comment on the drain design of my loop? I'd say it's a pretty typical design, nothing fancy and nothing really wrong with it but you guys are more experienced than I am.


Propeller and the seeding on the main moving part plays the main role of whether your pump runs quiet and smooth
Even thou, normally, pumps need 8V to start, on average D5 can start as low as 7.2v-7.5v and continuously run that without issues

1. Small loops usually don't require pump to put out much voltage to start and run, but if you aiming for silence than obviously you want to run your pumps on low side of the speed, so the problem is that if your impeller and moving part seeding is worn out it will have negative effect on pumps performance as far is silence and than that pump won't start unless you up the voltage


2. Big loop obviously require higher voltage to start the pump, but if you're using something like Aquaero or PA2/3 that uses start boost, it can start with 8v or higher and drop the voltage as soon as the pump runs keeping it silent, but if the propeller or the moving part is worn out and even thou the pump will start, it would have to either stay at higher RPM or will stop as soon as the voltage drops.
In my case, several of my pumps got damaged because I would use DataVac to push the remaining liquid out of the loops not realizing that the huge amount of air will spin the pump dry at some point and those 2 parts would run pretty much dry and that would make them both lose their smoothness, the pumps would still run, but not unless I would pump them with 8-8.4 v and got worse as time went on.

FYI. Dr.Drop is actually really good tool to test your preassembled loop or parts and that will not damage anything at all, you only pump small amount of air that does not move.
So that's why I said if you run your pump(s) at higher RPM all the time than your fine with blowing some air through your pump once or twice, but I would not recommend it making it a habit.


----------



## kevindd992002

jvillaveces said:


> I don't t know about separate loops. I posted about full and empty loops, or blocks. The point I was making is that water is incompressible, so any pressure you introduce to the loop will propagate without loss throughout the entire loop. If that pressure exceeds the tolerance of one or more component, it will break them. Air, on the other hand, is compressible, so extra pressure you introduce to the same loop when it's not filled with coolant will mostly be absorbed by the adjacent mass of air, and the pressure reaching the rest of the components will be significantly lower, and hence, less dangerous, or even safe. I never pressurize my components or loops with more than 5 psi, which is enough to detect any leak but still well within the tolerance of all non-faulty components. In summary, pressurize with air, not fluid; if some fluid is present it's no big deal, but the majority of the loop (or component) volume should be occupied by air, not fluid.
> 
> Yes, you should drain your blocks before diassembling them. Of course, you would remove them from your loop before doing so!
> 
> Water is moved around inside the system by air, it does not compress. So at the other end of the water mass, you get the same pressure as you exerted on it, said mass remain at the same volume it had before you applied pressure; that's how the brakes in your car work -- the pedal pressurizes fluid in the line, which can't compress, so it displaces a piston at the other end of the line. When you apply pressure to a confined air mass, it will decrease in volume before transmitting the pressure; in a closed loop, the pressure will eventually stabilize as the denser air becomes harder to compress; that's how the tires in your car work.


Ok, I see what you mean by air being compressible and water being incompressible now. However, I wasn't actually intending to use a DataVac to drain a full loop (sorry for the confusion). My goal is to remove the "remaining/leftover" liquid out of the whole loop with the help of air. Are you saying that in this situation using a DataVac will really not affect any component negatively and that it will only spin the pump at a very safe/low RPM level? Would introducing this high of an air pressure in a loop with leftover liquid "push" that same liquid and increase the pressure to a very high amount? What's your comment on @NewUser16 's case wherein his pumps got damaged because of using a DataVac?

No, no, my point in my question regarding removing the blocks from the loop is that I should completely drain the loop before removing any of the components from it. I would understand that it's really not required to drain completely when just replacing coolants as long as you make sure you flush thoroughly, but it's a different case when you're disassembling the loop, isn't?



NewUser16 said:


> Propeller and the seeding on the main moving part plays the main role of whether your pump runs quiet and smooth
> Even thou, normally, pumps need 8V to start, on average D5 can start as low as 7.2v-7.5v and continuously run that without issues
> 
> 1. Small loops usually don't require pump to put out much voltage to start and run, but if you aiming for silence than obviously you want to run your pumps on low side of the speed, so the problem is that if your impeller and moving part seeding is worn out it will have negative effect on pumps performance as far is silence and than that pump won't start unless you up the voltage
> 
> 
> 2. Big loop obviously require higher voltage to start the pump, but if you're using something like Aquaero or PA2/3 that uses start boost, it can start with 8v or higher and drop the voltage as soon as the pump runs keeping it silent, but if the propeller or the moving part is worn out and even thou the pump will start, it would have to either stay at higher RPM or will stop as soon as the voltage drops.
> In my case, several of my pumps got damaged because I would use DataVac to push the remaining liquid out of the loops not realizing that the huge amount of air will spin the pump dry at some point and those 2 parts would run pretty much dry and that would make them both lose their smoothness, the pumps would still run, but not unless I would pump them with 8-8.4 v and got worse as time went on.
> 
> FYI. Dr.Drop is actually really good tool to test your preassembled loop or parts and that will not damage anything at all, you only pump small amount of air that does not move.
> So that's why I said if you run your pump(s) at higher RPM all the time than your fine with blowing some air through your pump once or twice, but I would not recommend it making it a habit.


Ahh, so you're saying that the pump gets affected/worn out by using the DataVac and it affected how you run it with voltage either with small or big loops, gotcha!

Although this shouldn't affect PWM pumps at all, would it? PWM pumps always run at 12V and it's just the PWM signal that varies the RPM.


----------



## Barefooter

kevindd992002 said:


> Yeah but I already have a Datavac so might as well use it  Are you sure that the quick pressure it creates in the loop won't damage anything? Won't the pump motor spin too fast with the risk of running it dry?
> 
> They are airtight (I already tested with Dr. Drop) and I think is really just a cosmetic issue. But algae is algae. I'm OCD, yes, but I don't want anything growing inside any component even before I fill them with Pastel. Disassembling the EK block won't void the warranty, it will just void the "leak-free guarantee" as stated in their website. As for the Cryos Kuplex CPU block, I have to consult Aquacomputer about it before doing anything.


I would not blow any compressed air into the system unless you have a way to limit the pressure to 10 psi or less, which would rule out a Datavac. An air compressor with a regulator that you could turn down to less than 10 psi would be ok.


----------



## KCDC

@*Mayhem* what ever happened to that "nano" "super" fluid you guys were teasing/developing a few months back that was giving superior cooling results?

Also wanted to mention that I've used a DataVac blower to help drain out fluid on my system at least 5 times by now with zero issues. Definitely helps getting the last bits out of my rads for Vue prep. Not sure if it's really doing any damage to my pump, Can;t really tell if it's spinning that much if at all, but using the datavac makes things much easier for my setup, hasn't caused any leaks. I'm not condoning the use of it since I have zero scientific proof to back this up, but I've yet to have an issue. The one thing I did notice was that it will accelerate plasticizer leeching in soft tubing, I think maybe because the air gets pretty hot pretty quickly, so it will render soft tubes pretty much useless if you don't want them cloudy.


----------



## kevindd992002

Barefooter said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah but I already have a Datavac so might as well use it /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif Are you sure that the quick pressure it creates in the loop won't damage anything? Won't the pump motor spin too fast with the risk of running it dry?
> 
> They are airtight (I already tested with Dr. Drop) and I think is really just a cosmetic issue. But algae is algae. I'm OCD, yes, but I don't want anything growing inside any component even before I fill them with Pastel. Disassembling the EK block won't void the warranty, it will just void the "leak-free guarantee" as stated in their website. As for the Cryos Kuplex CPU block, I have to consult Aquacomputer about it before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> I would not blow any compressed air into the system unless you have a way to limit the pressure to 10 psi or less, which would rule out a Datavac. An air compressor with a regulator that you could turn down to less than 10 psi would be ok.
Click to expand...

Yes, I figured. What do you think about the ABN Syphon Kit?


----------



## Barefooter

kevindd992002 said:


> Yes, I figured. What do you think about the ABN Syphon Kit?


I've never used one, but I don't see how that could hurt your system.


----------



## Spin Cykle

*Mayhems users club*

Quick question for everyone. 

I just finished my new loop and I’m running X1 clear + 20 drops of blue dye. I recently read a thread about Mayhem’s dye staining clear acrylic blocks/reservoirs and I’m starting to get very nervous. I’ve had the fluid in my loop for about 7 days. Do you think staining will already have occurred? I can see some “build up/ staining” at the top of my reservoir already. 

I’m going to drain/flush the loop and run blitz part 2 per the directions on the box as soon as it arrives (3-4 days). Than replace it with a white pastel mixed with a new bottle of non-stain blue dye. 

I really hope I haven’t ruined my clear acrylic block/pump/res.....


----------



## kevindd992002

It sucks that Mick doesn't reply to the support ticket I filed in their website. For my past tickets he replies pretty fast. My current ticket doesn't have even a single reply for one whole week now.


----------



## 414347

Spin Cykle said:


> Quick question for everyone.
> 
> I just finished my new loop and I’m running X1 clear + 20 drops of blue dye. I recently read a thread about Mayhem’s dye staining clear acrylic blocks/reservoirs and I’m starting to get very nervous. I’ve had the fluid in my loop for about 7 days. Do you think staining will already have occurred? I can see some “build up/ staining” at the top of my reservoir already.
> 
> I’m going to drain/flush the loop and run blitz part 2 per the directions on the box as soon as it arrives (3-4 days). Than replace it with a white pastel mixed with a new bottle of non-stain blue dye.
> 
> I really hope I haven’t ruined my clear acrylic block/pump/res.....


Nice clean build, I like Singularity's reservoir combo 

The discoloration you see on top of your Z-Tube its normal, its condensation. I use clear Distilled with Biocide Extreme and I get the fog/condensation, I wouldn't worry about it, eventually if you use Blitz#2 it will clear your blocks just nicely


----------



## fx3861

advice needed, which would be better x1 clear or liquid utopia frm primochill. As i be mixing it with some mica powder, it would be best if either contains some surfactant as the finer mica powder i'm using tends to sticks to the petg tubing and acrylic covers of my blocks


----------



## kevindd992002

This EK block for my EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 is starting to give me headaches. These are the series of events:

NOTE: The only type of liquids that ever circulated around my loop are distilled water and Mayhems Blitz Part 2 solution. I never turned this whole system on yet (except for testing it when I bought the parts new, of course) and distilled water is only used for flushing the system (it was never used as a coolant) at about 1 hour interval each.

1) Last week I posted this: http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/993624-ek-club-2145.html#post27063665 and I solved the problem by disassembling the block and cleaning the insides with a micro-fiber cloth and distilled water.
2) Yesterday, I assembled my loop again and did another run of Blitz Part 2 and subsequently flushing multiple times with distilled water.
3) While flushing with distilled water and with normal lighting conditions in my room, everything seems to be fine like so:










4) But when you direct a flashlight to the block, you see this some kind of brown discoloration of some sort!










What is this? I'm new to watercooling and I made sure everything was clean before I set this whole thing up. I used Mayhems Blitz Part 1 to clean my two HWLabs GTS rads thoroughly (with four times flushing with distilled water afterwards) and, like I said above, used Blitz Part 2 to clean my whole loop after disassembling it. I haven't put a coolant in this system yet because I'm making sure everything is clean first. But as you see, I'm already having loads of problems that I didn't anticipate.

What do you guys think?


----------



## jura11

kevindd992002 said:


> This EK block for my EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 is starting to give me headaches. These are the series of events:
> 
> NOTE: The only type of liquids that ever circulated around my loop are distilled water and Mayhems Blitz Part 2 solution. I never turned this whole system on yet (except for testing it when I bought the parts new, of course) and distilled water is only used for flushing the system (it was never used as a coolant) at about 1 hour interval each.
> 
> 1) Last week I posted this: http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/993624-ek-club-2145.html#post27063665 and I solved the problem by disassembling the block and cleaning the insides with a micro-fiber cloth and distilled water.
> 2) Yesterday, I assembled my loop again and did another run of Blitz Part 2 and subsequently flushing multiple times with distilled water.
> 3) While flushing with distilled water and with normal lighting conditions in my room, everything seems to be fine like so:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4) But when you direct a flashlight to the block, you see this some kind of brown discoloration of some sort!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is this? I'm new to watercooling and I made sure everything was clean before I set this whole thing up. I used Mayhems Blitz Part 1 to clean my two HWLabs GTS rads thoroughly (with four times flushing with distilled water afterwards) and, like I said above, used Blitz Part 2 to clean my whole loop after disassembling it. I haven't put a coolant in this system yet because I'm making sure everything is clean first. But as you see, I'm already having loads of problems that I didn't anticipate.
> 
> What do you guys think?


Hi there 

You probably mean this discolouration 

This is pretty much normal with EK Nickel plated blocks, have used 3 EK GPU nickel water blocks and all been same like yours after while, my GTX1080 block is same maybe bit worse after 6 months of constant use

Not sure if its down to EK Nickel plating,this I never saw on Phanteks blocks, maybe other will have different opinions on this 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## 414347

kevindd992002 said:


> This EK block for my EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 is starting to give me headaches. These are the series of events:
> 
> NOTE: The only type of liquids that ever circulated around my loop are distilled water and Mayhems Blitz Part 2 solution. I never turned this whole system on yet (except for testing it when I bought the parts new, of course) and distilled water is only used for flushing the system (it was never used as a coolant) at about 1 hour interval each.
> 
> 1) Last week I posted this: http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/993624-ek-club-2145.html#post27063665 and I solved the problem by disassembling the block and cleaning the insides with a micro-fiber cloth and distilled water.
> 2) Yesterday, I assembled my loop again and did another run of Blitz Part 2 and subsequently flushing multiple times with distilled water.
> 3) While flushing with distilled water and with normal lighting conditions in my room, everything seems to be fine like so:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4) But when you direct a flashlight to the block, you see this some kind of brown discoloration of some sort!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is this? I'm new to watercooling and I made sure everything was clean before I set this whole thing up. I used Mayhems Blitz Part 1 to clean my two HWLabs GTS rads thoroughly (with four times flushing with distilled water afterwards) and, like I said above, used Blitz Part 2 to clean my whole loop after disassembling it. I haven't put a coolant in this system yet because I'm making sure everything is clean first. But as you see, I'm already having loads of problems that I didn't anticipate.
> 
> What do you guys think?


I can confirm 2 things for you.

1. EK nickle plating is lower quality and there is no doubt about that. I wont say don't use their blocks because with them is hit and miss, you might get lucky and get block one better from the either, but generally if you want quality either Watrecool Heatkiller or Aquacomputer, their nickle plating and overall quality is superior.

If you look somewhere in this forum, whey back, maybe year or so I conducted experiment with Heatkiller GPU blocks, my separate system was running I believe 2.5 years with distilled and biocide extreme and changing water every 12 months. After almost i think close to 3 years I took 2 of the blocks apart and both of them looked like literately brand new, look somewhere in Mayhems forum, you will see what I mean by quality, the blocks were shiny like they have never been in contact with water and that system was running 24/7 for almost 2.5 years

2. whether you use clear distilled water with some additive, premix or other liquids, the minute water touches metal and O-rings it will create brown residue that will look like plasticizer or some sort of brown stain, and that is more so with EK blocks, but that is nothing to worry about, as soon is you wipe it off and its very easy to come off, pretty much the next time water flows through that block, I'm pretty sure it will happen again, maybe in different spot, but it will happen.

One thing though about that is that it doesn't get any bigger, what you see withing a few days of using your system, usually will stay the same size, don't worry about that, its really harmless, next time you buying blocks try either Heatkiller or Aquacomputer, I have try Heatkiller once and now nothing else get even close as far is quality.


----------



## kevindd992002

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> You probably mean this discolouration
> 
> This is pretty much normal with EK Nickel plated blocks, have used 3 EK GPU nickel water blocks and all been same like yours after while, my GTX1080 block is same maybe bit worse after 6 months of constant use
> 
> Not sure if its down to EK Nickel plating,this I never saw on Phanteks blocks, maybe other will have different opinions on this
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura





NewUser16 said:


> I can confirm 2 things for you.
> 
> 1. EK nickle plating is lower quality and there is no doubt about that. I wont say don't use their blocks because with them is hit and miss, you might get lucky and get block one better from the either, but generally if you want quality either Watrecool Heatkiller or Aquacomputer, their nickle plating and overall quality is superior.
> 
> If you look somewhere in this forum, whey back, maybe year or so I conducted experiment with Heatkiller GPU blocks, my separate system was running I believe 2.5 years with distilled and biocide extreme and changing water every 12 months. After almost i think close to 3 years I took 2 of the blocks apart and both of them looked like literately brand new, look somewhere in Mayhems forum, you will see what I mean by quality, the blocks were shiny like they have never been in contact with water and that system was running 24/7 for almost 2.5 years
> 
> 2. whether you use clear distilled water with some additive, premix or other liquids, the minute water touches metal and O-rings it will create brown residue that will look like plasticizer or some sort of brown stain, and that is more so with EK blocks, but that is nothing to worry about, as soon is you wipe it off and its very easy to come off, pretty much the next time water flows through that block, I'm pretty sure it will happen again, maybe in different spot, but it will happen.
> 
> One thing though about that is that it doesn't get any bigger, what you see withing a few days of using your system, usually will stay the same size, don't worry about that, its really harmless, next time you buying blocks try either Heatkiller or Aquacomputer, I have try Heatkiller once and now nothing else get even close as far is quality.


Believe me, I would've gone with Aquacomputer if they had a block for the EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3  Fair point though, I didn't know that EK had less quality than its competitors until a few days ago when I read about it in another OCN thread. I would've gone with Bitspower had I known this beforehand. My reservoir is an Aquacomputer Aqualis, rads are HWLabs GTS Black Ice's, and CPU block is an Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos. It's only the pump and GPU block that are EK in my build. The pump, I think, is fine because a D5 pump is a D5 pump regardless of the brand anyway.

Regarding the "oil" in EK's O-rings, is that oil present inside the O-rings themselves? Or is something that can be wiped off? When I dismantled this GPU block, I wiped the O-ring with distilled water so I thought that oil was wiped off too.

Is it worth to disassemble this block again just to wipe off that brown stain? And is this grounds for RMA with EK?


----------



## jura11

kevindd992002 said:


> Believe me, I would've gone with Aquacomputer if they had a block for the EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3  Fair point though, I didn't know that EK had less quality than its competitors until a few days ago when I read about it in another OCN thread. I would've gone with Bitspower had I known this beforehand. My reservoir is an Aquacomputer Aqualis, rads are HWLabs GTS Black Ice's, and CPU block is an Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos. It's only the pump and GPU block that are EK in my build. The pump, I think, is fine because a D5 pump is a D5 pump regardless of the brand anyway.
> 
> Regarding the "oil" in EK's O-rings, is that oil present inside the O-rings themselves? Or is something that can be wiped off? When I dismantled this GPU block, I wiped the O-ring with distilled water so I thought that oil was wiped off too.
> 
> Is it worth to disassemble this block again just to wipe off that brown stain? And is this grounds for RMA with EK?


Hi there 

I recently used Bykski WB on friend FTW3 and been surprised by quality of this block, his temperatures are in 36-38°C under heavy load, I have EK blocks in my build, but I will be replacing these blocks for Phanteks or Heatkiller blocks or Aquacomputer blocks it will depends on more factors, personally I don't like Nickel plated blocks but after I used like Heatkiller or Bykski and Phanteks blocks I will go with Nickel plated blocks from above companies 

Pump is pump and there shouldn't be issue

If its worth to disassemble block, its up to you, you will be using clear fluid/coolant or are you looking at run colored coolant/fluid 

In my case when I cleaned my Nickel plated GTX1080 block I have used Autosol metal polish for Nickel WB, clean water wouldn't clean that

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## 414347

kevindd992002 said:


> Believe me, I would've gone with Aquacomputer if they had a block for the EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3  Fair point though, I didn't know that EK had less quality than its competitors until a few days ago when I read about it in another OCN thread. I would've gone with Bitspower had I known this beforehand. My reservoir is an Aquacomputer Aqualis, rads are HWLabs GTS Black Ice's, and CPU block is an Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos. It's only the pump and GPU block that are EK in my build. The pump, I think, is fine because a D5 pump is a D5 pump regardless of the brand anyway.
> 
> Regarding the "oil" in EK's O-rings, is that oil present inside the O-rings themselves? Or is something that can be wiped off? When I dismantled this GPU block, I wiped the O-ring with distilled water so I thought that oil was wiped off too.
> 
> Is it worth to disassemble this block again just to wipe off that brown stain? And is this grounds for RMA with EK?


No this isn't RMA issue. Let me clarify this. its the nature of O-ring its made out of rubber and if in contact with water and other metals it will seep that brown stain but its harmless I wouldn't worry about it, its not like plasticizer or algae that spreads, this will stay as is and you can wipe but high possibility that will come back the next time you fill with water.

A lot of people don't see that because they use color liquids but its there, just ignore it.

Btw. You have superior GPU and nice looking system

If you want to keep this system sparcle clean, use Blitz #2 every 12-15 months and you will have long lasting high-end system.

Enjoy it, don't worry about that discoloration, it comes off with wipe of your finger, it doesn't stick permanently and it doesn't effect performance at all


----------



## kevindd992002

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> I recently used Bykski WB on friend FTW3 and been surprised by quality of this block, his temperatures are in 36-38°C under heavy load, I have EK blocks in my build, but I will be replacing these blocks for Phanteks or Heatkiller blocks or Aquacomputer blocks it will depends on more factors, personally I don't like Nickel plated blocks but after I used like Heatkiller or Bykski and Phanteks blocks I will go with Nickel plated blocks from above companies
> 
> Pump is pump and there shouldn't be issue
> 
> If its worth to disassemble block, its up to you, you will be using clear fluid/coolant or are you looking at run colored coolant/fluid
> 
> In my case when I cleaned my Nickel plated GTX1080 block I have used Autosol metal polish for Nickel WB, clean water wouldn't clean that
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


I never knew the brand Bykski until you said it now. Chinese brands are starting to dominate the watercooling industry  But I'm still all for German engineering!



NewUser16 said:


> No this isn't RMA issue. Let me clarify this. its the nature of O-ring its made out of rubber and if in contact with water and other metals it will seep that brown stain but its harmless I wouldn't worry about it, its not like plasticizer or algae that spreads, this will stay as is and you can wipe but high possibility that will come back the next time you fill with water.
> 
> A lot of people don't see that because they use color liquids but its there, just ignore it.
> 
> Btw. You have superior GPU and nice looking system
> 
> If you want to keep this system sparcle clean, use Blitz #2 every 12-15 months and you will have long lasting high-end system.
> 
> Enjoy it, don't worry about that discoloration, it comes off with wipe of your finger, it doesn't stick permanently and it doesn't effect performance at all


I see. Yeah, I just filled my loop with Mayhems Pastel UV Green and the discoloration is much more subtle now even when light is directed towards the affected areas, so I think I'm good.

Thanks for the tip! I alredy used Blitz Part 2 twice in my system now before even filling it up with the proper coolant. I hope it's squeaky clean and I won't have any issues along the road.


----------



## 414347

kevindd992002 said:


> I never knew the brand Bykski until you said it now. Chinese brands are starting to dominate the watercooling industry  But I'm still all for German engineering!
> 
> 
> 
> I see. Yeah, I just filled my loop with Mayhems Pastel UV Green and the discoloration is much more subtle now even when light is directed towards the affected areas, so I think I'm good.
> 
> Thanks for the tip! I alredy used Blitz Part 2 twice in my system now before even filling it up with the proper coolant. I hope it's squeaky clean and I won't have any issues along the road.



No problem. 

Don't get me wrong, EK makes some nice blocks and PC water cooling components and what you expiring with this discoloration isn't unique, it does happens across all different brands as well, its normal chemical reaction, but like I said with them (EK) its hit and miss and this might appear more or less severe, still no big deal really and you are actually lucky, its nothing alarming. 

Aquacomputer or Heatkiller they aren't flawless, they also make some components that needs a bit of improvements, but so far what I got from them and there is a ton of stuff and I mean a lot, I haven't had any complaints and their nickel is pretty much non restrictive that means you can use any liquid you want without worrying about side effects.


----------



## 414347

kevindd992002 said:


> It sucks that Mick doesn't reply to the support ticket I filed in their website. For my past tickets he replies pretty fast. My current ticket doesn't have even a single reply for one whole week now.



Don't quote me on that, maybe its just a rumor I have only heard from other users on hmmm............. I think was aquacomputer or ....darn I go to someone forums I will look and post the link if I can remember i could be wrong i don't remember exactly as it was while ago but someone have emailed Mayhems several times with no response and they heard is due to that Mayhems might be closing down his business, if that is true it would be really, really sad because he makes the best Biocide extreme and other liquids I've ever used.

Again, please don't quote me I have heard time believing it so now I'm curious.


----------



## Neokolzia

my last ticket was weeks ago and gotten no reply


----------



## DarthBaggins

He's not closing down, don't know where you've been given that mis-information. If it was true why would they be updating their site and the store with-in it


----------



## kevindd992002

Yeah, he's not closing down. I thought of emailing him directly and he said sorry because they were on "factory leave" for 1 week because he went to Germany and his back was aching or something.


----------



## 414347

DarthBaggins said:


> He's not closing down, don't know where you've been given that mis-information. If it was true why would they be updating their site and the store with-in it


That's why I said take it with grain of salt, it might be rumor. Someone who apparently send Mayhems several emails never got any response and maybe assumed the worst. This was said so briefly and I remember, there was no response from any user so the thread became forgotten, that's why I can't even recall if it was at aquacomputer or maybe caselabs I shouldn't even say anything, I just unintentionally promoted a rumor I guess, my back, sorry.


----------



## Neokolzia

NewUser16 said:


> That's why I said take it with grain of salt, it might be rumor. Someone who apparently send Mayhems several emails never got any response and maybe assumed the worst. This was said so briefly and I remember, there was no response from any user so the thread became forgotten, that's why I can't even recall if it was at aquacomputer or maybe caselabs I shouldn't even say anything, I just unintentionally promoted a rumor I guess, my back, sorry.


Well its been nearly 3 weeks for myself since I submitted a ticket. Gotten 0 response.

It use to be a fairly straight forward thing poking the account on here


----------



## 414347

Neokolzia said:


> Well its been nearly 3 weeks for myself since I submitted a ticket. Gotten 0 response.
> 
> It use to be a fairly straight forward thing poking the account on here


Well, that's not good. Word spreads quickly and unfortunately bad rep even quicker so hopefully there will be some movement to see that Mayhems is still alive and doing well or some people will move to other places to get their goods.

I personally had alsways good experience with Mayhems, but again, its been months since my last purchase and email communication.


----------



## kevindd992002

NewUser16 said:


> That's why I said take it with grain of salt, it might be rumor. Someone who apparently send Mayhems several emails never got any response and maybe assumed the worst. This was said so briefly and I remember, there was no response from any user so the thread became forgotten, that's why I can't even recall if it was at aquacomputer or maybe caselabs I shouldn't even say anything, I just unintentionally promoted a rumor I guess, my back, sorry.


No worries.



Neokolzia said:


> Well its been nearly 3 weeks for myself since I submitted a ticket. Gotten 0 response.
> 
> It use to be a fairly straight forward thing poking the account on here


You can email him directly at [email protected] and inform him that a lot of people are already worried. I'm sure he'll be alarmed.


----------



## kevindd992002

@NewUser16 and @jvillaveces

I asked Sven from Aquacomputer ( @Shoggy ) about using a bicycle pump to slowly push any leftover liquid from the loop when draining and here's his response:

"in theory this will work but I doubt that the outcome will be what you expect. I think that even if you pump like a maniac you won't be able to apply enough constant air flow to move a noteworthy amount of water. If you really want to try that I would use larger floor pump to get enough air flow.

If we want to empty a loop or component we use compressed air and still have to let it run for a while. The amount of air that you could move with a normal pump will be only a fraction of this."

I'm asking him if this is dangerous for the D5 pump in my loop and I'm still waiting for his reply today. Any comments?


----------



## jvillaveces

kevindd992002 said:


> @NewUser16 and @jvillaveces
> 
> I asked Sven from Aquacomputer ( @Shoggy ) about using a bicycle pump to slowly push any leftover liquid from the loop when draining and here's his response:
> 
> "in theory this will work but I doubt that the outcome will be what you expect. I think that even if you pump like a maniac you won't be able to apply enough constant air flow to move a noteworthy amount of water. If you really want to try that I would use larger floor pump to get enough air flow.
> 
> If we want to empty a loop or component we use compressed air and still have to let it run for a while. The amount of air that you could move with a normal pump will be only a fraction of this."
> 
> I'm asking him if this is dangerous for the D5 pump in my loop and I'm still waiting for his reply today. Any comments?


I'm interested in his response!


----------



## fx3861

As for me, think it would be as dangerous as runnin your pump dry. As the air pressure will spin the propeller inside the pump. Same concept if blowing a flow meter.


----------



## kevindd992002

fx3861 said:


> As for me, think it would be as dangerous as runnin your pump dry. As the air pressure will spin the propeller inside the pump. Same concept if blowing a flow meter.


That's what I think too but let's wait for his response.


----------



## kevindd992002

Here's Sven's reply just now:

"Im quite sure you must attached it in a secure way because otherwise you will lose too much air flow if the connection is not tight.

I don't know why you thing that this would be dangerours for the pump. I doubt that you will be able to move its impeller with the pump. Even with constant compressed air you have to apply a higher pressure to make it move."

So I'm kinda lost now. How will an air pump not move the impeller when you introduce air in the loop?


----------



## 414347

kevindd992002 said:


> Here's Sven's reply just now:
> 
> "Im quite sure you must attached it in a secure way because otherwise you will lose too much air flow if the connection is not tight.
> 
> I don't know why you thing that this would be dangerours for the pump. I doubt that you will be able to move its impeller with the pump. Even with constant compressed air you have to apply a higher pressure to make it move."
> 
> So I'm kinda lost now. How will an air pump not move the impeller when you introduce air in the loop?


Not only the housing of the pump but mostly the ceramic can get easily damaged if the impeller runs dry. The impeller has a channels for the water to move while pump is running.
If you blow high pressure air, I can assure you there is enough force for the impeller to spin and unless you testing the pump dry with a dub of oil and that can only be done for short while, you can and you will damage not only the ceramic but the wall of the pumps housing and theer is no argument there.


----------



## kevindd992002

NewUser16 said:


> Not only the housing of the pump but mostly the ceramic can get easily damaged if the impeller runs dry. The impeller has a channels for the water to move while pump is running.
> If you blow high pressure air, I can assure you there is enough force for the impeller to spin and unless you testing the pump dry with a dub of oil and that can only be done for short while, you can and you will damage not only the ceramic but the wall of the pumps housing and theer is no argument there.


Yeah, I don't know what to say. I'm interested in what Sven has to say about this. He usually replies all my yesterday queries on the current day.

On another note, I consulted Mick from Mayhems regarding the green buildup I had previously and here was his response:

"Yeh we have seen many reports now of the black Ice rads, I have had about 7 in the last month alone. We’re awaiting delivery of two of them se we can look into the issue. 

All I can suggest is a Good Blitz Part one for longer than 12 hours. We making a new concentrated version of this to combat this issue but wont be ready for a few days."

So he's saying that they've been receiving reports about the same issue from HWLabs Black Ice users. I thought that these were one of the cleanest rads in history but apparently not. They are waiting for their sample Black Ice rads to arrive and will start their investigation on this.


----------



## kevindd992002

Sven's reply again:

"The friction between the axis and bearing is quite high and some air will not move it at all. If you ever had a naked D5 pump in your hand and tried to move the impeller you will understand what I mean.

I can not tell the electric duster would be suitable since I have no idea how much pressure it generates. Since it is a quite simple part I don't think it can generate a high pressure but who knows. A too high presse can damage the components even if the loop has an open end."

Comments?


----------



## 414347

kevindd992002 said:


> Sven's reply again:
> 
> "The friction between the axis and bearing is quite high and some air will not move it at all. If you ever had a naked D5 pump in your hand and tried to move the impeller you will understand what I mean.
> 
> I can not tell the electric duster would be suitable since I have no idea how much pressure it generates. Since it is a quite simple part I don't think it can generate a high pressure but who knows. A too high presse can damage the components even if the loop has an open end."
> 
> Comments?



I can tell you one thing for sure and its not my opinion or guess, its a fact as I have tested # of times. New pump and the impeller when you try to move /spin with your fingers, it turns very smoothly, the ceramic and impellers inner part where impeller itself making direct contact it has minimum to no friction so there is not much of a resistance and that's what makes the pump start and run on lower speeds making quiet and if you have bigger loop(s) your pump doesn't have to struggle.

E.g. DataVac that I use produces a lot of pressure and I have the smaller model ED500, there is more powerful model also, anyways, that duster will spin even older D5 pumps impeller, even in big loops.

About a years ago in one of my systems I was using Bitspowers clear D5 dual pump MOD and I was curious about this whole process of blowing air into loop line as 2 of my pumps got weird after while so when I used my DataVac and using longer nuzzle of DataVac which helps to bring the air pressure down a bit, when used that I could see both of the pumps impellers spinning freely every time I tiger the duster and there was no fuss at all, the impellers were spinning pretty fast.

Impeller have a channels that pushing the water foreword to the loop so high pressure air and it doesn't have to be even extreme pressure but will move easily the impeller and because of the air you blowing on the pump(s) not only that the impeller spins but also you blowing the remaining moisture out from the pump making run totally dry and that will damage your pump sooner or later.

This isn't argument I want to force on anyone I'm just helping you and others who I'm sure either thought or are using high pressure air to get rid of remaining liquid from their loops without realizing that on long run you will cause some damage to the pump.


Sven is smart guy no doubt and I'm glad he left the room of uncertainty when he stated "Since it is a quite simple part I don't think it can generate a high pressure but who knows. A too high presse can damage the components even if the loop has an open end."


----------



## Juris

After using Blitz Part 1 on my previous rig I had maybe half a litre of the acid water mix left over so I put it in a glass bottle. That was about 7 months ago. Anyone know if its ok to use this for another set of radiators on my new build. Cheers.


----------



## 414347

Juris said:


> After using Blitz Part 1 on my previous rig I had maybe half a litre of the acid water mix left over so I put it in a glass bottle. That was about 7 months ago. Anyone know if its ok to use this for another set of radiators on my new build. Cheers.



If it wasn't sitting in direct light all this time you should be fine, acid stays active for a very long time before loses its properties


----------



## Juris

NewUser16 said:


> If it wasn't sitting in direct light all this time you should be fine, acid stays active for a very long time before loses its properties


Thanks NewUser16. Going to drop a few old copper coins into it for today and see if it brings them back nice and shiny to test it out. Cheers.


----------



## 414347

Juris said:


> Thanks NewUser16. Going to drop a few old copper coins into it for today and see if it brings them back nice and shiny to test it out. Cheers.


Its actually good idea


----------



## emsj86

NewUser16 said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sven's reply again:
> 
> "The friction between the axis and bearing is quite high and some air will not move it at all. If you ever had a naked D5 pump in your hand and tried to move the impeller you will understand what I mean. The real problem is the motor running dry not the impellers. I’ve used compressed air and even a data vac numerous times and never had an issue. I’m sure like anything if enough people do it there will be a failure. But for me I use compressed air and it works good. Sometimes we over think things. And if that’s the case of being worried we’ll than don’t do it. Because there is always a chance of something not working out
> 
> I can not tell the electric duster would be suitable since I have no idea how much pressure it generates. Since it is a quite simple part I don't think it can generate a high pressure but who knows. A too high presse can damage the components even if the loop has an open end."
> 
> Comments?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can tell you one thing for sure and its not my opinion or guess, its a fact as I have tested # of times. New pump and the impeller when you try to move /spin with your fingers, it turns very smoothly, the ceramic and impellers inner part where impeller itself making direct contact it has minimum to no friction so there is not much of a resistance and that's what makes the pump start and run on lower speeds making quiet and if you have bigger loop(s) your pump doesn't have to struggle.
> 
> E.g. DataVac that I use produces a lot of pressure and I have the smaller model ED500, there is more powerful model also, anyways, that duster will spin even older D5 pumps impeller, even in big loops.
> 
> About a years ago in one of my systems I was using Bitspowers clear D5 dual pump MOD and I was curious about this whole process of blowing air into loop line as 2 of my pumps got weird after while so when I used my DataVac and using longer nuzzle of DataVac which helps to bring the air pressure down a bit, when used that I could see both of the pumps impellers spinning freely every time I tiger the duster and there was no fuss at all, the impellers were spinning pretty fast.
> 
> Impeller have a channels that pushing the water foreword to the loop so high pressure air and it doesn't have to be even extreme pressure but will move easily the impeller and because of the air you blowing on the pump(s) not only that the impeller spins but also you blowing the remaining moisture out from the pump making run totally dry and that will damage your pump sooner or later.
> 
> This isn't argument I want to force on anyone I'm just helping you and others who I'm sure either thought or are using high pressure air to get rid of remaining liquid from their loops without realizing that on long run you will cause some damage to the pump.
> 
> 
> Sven is smart guy no doubt and I'm glad he left the room of uncertainty when he stated "Since it is a quite simple part I don't think it can generate a high pressure but who knows. A too high presse can damage the components even if the loop has an open end."
Click to expand...

 fjrjf


----------



## kevindd992002

emsj86 said:


> fjrjf


What's this?


----------



## BrjSan

Quick question guys, can i top up with only distilled water, current loop (250 ml Mayhem Pastel Concentrate + 750 ml Distilled water) , coolant level dropped in the Res.


----------



## Juris

BrjSan said:


> Quick question guys, can i top up with only distilled water, current loop (250 ml Mayhem Pastel Concentrate + 750 ml Distilled water) , coolant level dropped in the Res.


That shouldn't be an issue but of course the extra distilled will dilute the Pastel Concentrate so depending on the amount you need to top up colour could appear different. Did it drop significantly or just a tiny bit?


----------



## Juris

Has anyone had any issues with Mayhems Blitz Part 1 acid leaking from its own bottle. Just finished off the half litre mix from my last batch then opened the new Blitz kit I received 2 days ago with an order from OCUK.

The caps plastic ring seal/teeth appears intact and there was no damage to the Blitz box or the box the OCUK order came in but the acid has leaked all over the outside of the bottle into the covering lock bag. This bottle is a squarer shape than the round one I got several months ago.

Edit: Mystery solved. Opened/broke the cap seal and there was a small tear at the side of the plastic film covering the bottle mouth.


----------



## 414347

Juris said:


> Has anyone had any issues with Mayhems Blitz Part 1 acid leaking from its own bottle. Just finished off the half litre mix from my last batch then opened the new Blitz kit I received 2 days ago with an order from OCUK.
> 
> The caps plastic ring seal/teeth appears intact and there was no damage to the Blitz box or the box the OCUK order came in but the acid has leaked all over the outside of the bottle into the covering lock bag. This bottle is a squarer shape than the round one I got several months ago.
> 
> Edit: Mystery solved. Opened/broke the cap seal and there was a small tear at the side of the plastic film covering the bottle mouth.


Good you got that solved but this should not leak regardless. Would be good idea if you shoot Mayhems email so he's aware of that and might always improve the packaging to prevent any type of liquid leakage in the future


----------



## Juris

NewUser16 said:


> Good you got that solved but this should not leak regardless. Would be good idea if you shoot Mayhems email so he's aware of that and might always improve the packaging to prevent any type of liquid leakage in the future


I gave OCUK a call and they said they'd contact the supplier. I'm old enough to know how to deal with chemicals I shouldn't drink. I'm Irish so our livers are immune to most poisonous liquids but its good to know these things . It never left the outer bag and its good to know Mayhems put that extra layer of protection in the box just in case.


----------



## kevindd992002

Which "plastic film" are you referring to? Can you please post a pic of the bottle damage?


----------



## Juris

kevindd992002 said:


> Which "plastic film" are you referring to? Can you please post a pic of the bottle damage?


Its the same kind of layer you get on a ketchup bottle that you have to pierce or peel off before you can get to the sauce. When you take the top off you still have that protective plastic seal on the mouth of the bottle. Can't show you the original as I've just used the Blitz on my EK XE360. Posted a pic below of the remains of the film on the rim and one from Alibaba of what it looks like new. A little breach caused it to leak.


----------



## Bluebell

Just checked mine which I plan on using tonight - same problem.


----------



## Juris

Bluebell said:


> Just checked mine which I plan on using tonight - same problem.


Thats weird. Maybe its a batch. When did you get yours and where from?


----------



## Bluebell

Juris said:


> Thats weird. Maybe its a batch. When did you get yours and where from?


2 weeks ago from Overclockers. Been waiting for the other bits to arrive so this has been kept in its original packaging since then.


----------



## Juris

Bluebell said:


> 2 weeks ago from Overclockers. Been waiting for the other bits to arrive so this has been kept in its original packaging since then.


OCUK here as well. The rest of the kit was fine. No signs of any liquid or condensation etc on the box, goggles, gloves, Part 2, the manual or the ph card. When you get around to using it just have a check on the seal. Its not exactly a strong acid though so not something I'd be too worried about. As acids go its pretty weak stuff. Just don't drink it obviously.


----------



## 414347

This should not be happening....period. The purpose of the seal is self explanatory and also, we talking acid here.

I always get stuff directly from Mayhems, never had issues. Maybe this was an old batch I know he was improving packaging while ago, there was demonstration video that you could literally jump over his new improved sealed bottles full of liquid without damaging them and its content.


----------



## Juris

NewUser16 said:


> This should not be happening....period. The purpose of the seal is self explanatory.
> 
> I always get stuff directly from Mayhems, never had issues with any of his stuff. Maybe this was an old batch I know he was improving packaging while ago, you could literally jump over his new improved sealed bottles full of liquid without damaging them and its content.


Lol. This I want to see tested. No slippers allowed. Only clogs or doc martins. We should get Steve from GN to do it just for the spectacle of seeing Jesus beating the living crap out of it.

Didn't know Mick was upgrading his packaging. You know yourself whenever you're switching over packaging or a component there can be snags. Unless there are loads of reports I'm not too worried. As long as it clears out my XE360 I'm happy and I'm sure it'll do the trick again. I always get my Mayhems stuff from OCUK simply because I'm usually ordering a load of other stuff and shipping works out much cheaper. Never had an issue with OCUK or Mayhems before (save or the VPP755 debacle but who to point fingers at there I've given up trying to find out) so I'll put it down to a glitch in the matrix.


----------



## kevindd992002

That plastic seal was what I was expecting but like @NewUser16 mentioned this shouldn't be happening. I have the Blitz 1 with the round bottle packaging. I stored it back in the box right after using it and it never leaked out on me. So the plastic seal isn't the issue here. It's the black seal cap that's causing the leak. If you shoot Mick directly an email at [email protected] , he will probably get to the bottom of this.


----------



## KCDC

Maybe what they're getting are the older model bottles?


----------



## 414347

Ahhh...yes those are the older bottles, new bottles are round with tight caps


----------



## KCDC

That store should definitely be notified about that, since it's most likely all of their older bottles will do this.


----------



## kevindd992002

Ok, this is just weird though. For the Pastel concentrate bottles, their new ones (the hermetically sealed ones) are the black square tops. The old ones were the one with white round tops. See my posts about this here:

http://www.overclock.net/forum/26133252-post14955.html
http://www.overclock.net/forum/26141048-post14961.html
http://www.overclock.net/forum/26141811-post14962.html

So how come it's the other way around for the Blitz Part 1? It doesn't make sense.


----------



## BrjSan

Juris said:


> That shouldn't be an issue but of course the extra distilled will dilute the Pastel Concentrate so depending on the amount you need to top up colour could appear different. Did it drop significantly or just a tiny bit?


Thanks Juris.

I cant recall which (Bitspower) Res i have , the loop is rocking its third year now (excellent performance). By eyeballing the res , mmmmm ..... it is "Noticeably seen" . 

The CPU loop is Mayhem Green, ... i will see what will happen, hopefully will not alter/reduce the color .

I will keep in mind to drop an update after topping it up this weekend.


----------



## Bluebell

kevindd992002 said:


> That plastic seal was what I was expecting but like @*NewUser16* mentioned this shouldn't be happening. I have the Blitz 1 with the round bottle packaging. I stored it back in the box right after using it and it never leaked out on me. So the plastic seal isn't the issue here. It's the black seal cap that's causing the leak. If you shoot Mick directly an email at [email protected] , he will probably get to the bottom of this.


The "plastic seal" is made of cardboard and it looks as if the fluid has passed straight through.


----------



## kevindd992002

Bluebell said:


> Just checked mine which I plan on using tonight - same problem.





Bluebell said:


> The "plastic seal" is made of cardboard and it looks as if the fluid has passed straight through.


Regardless of that, the black cap should've stopped the liquid from leaking from the bottle.


----------



## 414347

Even thou, this shouldn't be happening, sometimes things just arise unexpectedly, even to the most reputable brands and that is with everything in life.

The good thing with Mayhems is that if things are not right by customer (but keep in mind, some customers aren't easy to please don't matter what you do or say) but he will try to rectify the issue if not directly with you, than indirectly by fixing the issue with the next product, that's the only way you can build healthy and trusty relationship that is so important.


----------



## kevindd992002

NewUser16 said:


> Even thou, this shouldn't be happening, sometimes things just arise unexpectedly, even to the most reputable brands and that is with everything in life.
> 
> The good thing with Mayhems is that if things are not right by customer (but keep in mind, some customers aren't easy to please don't matter what you do or say) but he will try to rectify the issue if not directly with you, than indirectly by fixing the issue with the next product, that's the only way you can build healthy and trusty relationship that is so important.


Couldn't agree more! Mick's a very reasonable guy.


----------



## BrjSan

BrjSan said:


> Thanks Juris.
> 
> I cant recall which (Bitspower) Res i have , the loop is rocking its third year now (excellent performance). By eyeballing the res , mmmmm ..... it is "Noticeably seen" .
> 
> The CPU loop is Mayhem Green, ... i will see what will happen, hopefully will not alter/reduce the color .
> 
> I will keep in mind to drop an update after topping it up this weekend.



Loop topped, no change in color, green still vibrant


----------



## ttnuagmada

So I did some loop maintenance and switched to Mayhems X1 UV Blue. This is my first Mayhems product. 

I would just like to say that my initial impressions are that this stuff smells EXACTLY like Southern Comfort.


----------



## MNMadman

ttnuagmada said:


> I would just like to say that my initial impressions are that this stuff smells EXACTLY like Southern Comfort.


Better than my Mayhems Pastel yellow, which smells like paint to me.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
EK fluids don't smell much like anything :/


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Anyone use XT-1 with Bitspower PETG?


----------



## Jaytie

I just filled my completely cleaned loop (also ran the loop for 2 days with distilled water) with Mayhems X1 Clear. After less than 24h the water became cloudy (not green, maybe a little blueish tint). I can see very tiny particles in it. Is the coolant somehow reacting with something? (I'm using norprene tubing). Some advice would be awesome!


----------



## Deedaz

Jaytie said:


> I just filled my completely cleaned loop (also ran the loop for 2 days with distilled water) with Mayhems X1 Clear. After less than 24h the water became cloudy (not green, maybe a little blueish tint). I can see very tiny particles in it. Is the coolant somehow reacting with something? (I'm jusing norprene tubing). Some advice would be awesome!


What all do you have in your loop and how did you clean it?


----------



## Jaytie

The loop contains of two Alphacool rads, a EKWB fullnickel GPU block and an AquaComputer CPU Block. Radiators where first flushed with normal water, then cleaned with Cilit Bang followed by a good flush with distilled water. GPU and CPU blocks have been opened and cleaned with warm water. 

Normal distilled water seems to stay clear ... 

I drained the loop with Mayhems X1 for now, to prevent it from clogging and refilled it with distilled water. No clouding so far. Strange...


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm going to say there might still be some shtuff in those rads.


----------



## Jaytie

DarthBaggins said:


> I'm going to say there might still be some shtuff in those rads.


I don't really think so. I gave them a good flush, as always. Normal distilled water seems to stay clear. The fresh filled loop (with distilled water) is clear for almost 24h now. At this point the X1 was cloudy already. 

I just realized, that die X1 has these small white lints, that where in my loop (and my coolers) in the fresh coolant straight from the bottle, too! This isn't normal, is it?


----------



## 414347

No offense to anyone who uses Alphacool rads but they are the worst of all rads made as far is being dirty. How bad they are? you can run your loop for months and their crap will stick to the walls like a freaking frog and will be released slowly into your loop causing all sorts of issues.

So! you are asking for help and when someone trying to give you at least an idea what might be the issue and you answering "I don't really think so. I gave them a good flush, as always. Normal distilled water seems to stay clear. The fresh filled loop (with distilled water) is clear for almost 24h now. At this point the X1 was cloudy already" why asking.

Distilled water alone will do squad with Alphacool, ive used Alphacool once and never again


----------



## Jaytie

I'm sorry, what do you mean with "will do squad with Alphacool"? Do you mean, X1 may flush out stuff from the rads, that normal dist. water won't? 

What is the problem in saying that I think that I flushed the radiators quiet well? I connected the radiators to the watertap and let hot water flow trough them for 2-3 minutes, followed by Cilit Bang, followed by another flush with watertap and a last one with dist. water. If you think, thats not enough even for Alphacool radiators, ok, but what else can I do, to flush them even more? No offense ether, but all I'm saying is, that the radiators have seen a lot of clean water, before being reinstalled 

I agree that the radiators are the most plausible cause of the clouding, but I can't explain this to myself...


----------



## 414347

Jaytie said:


> I'm sorry, what do you mean with "will do squad with Alphacool"? Do you mean, X1 may flush out stuff from the rads, that normal dist. water won't?
> 
> What is the problem in saying that I think that I flushed the radiators quiet well? I connected the radiators to the watertap and let hot water flow trough them for 2-3 minutes, followed by Cilit Bang, followed by another flush with watertap and a last one with dist. water. If you think, thats not enough even for Alphacool radiators, ok, but what else can I do, to flush them even more? No offense ether, but all I'm saying is, that the radiators have seen a lot of clean water, before being reinstalled
> 
> I agree that the radiators are the most plausible cause of the clouding, but I can't explain this to myself...


Even boiling water which I have done to my Alphacool rad once won't get rid the slime out of them. Tbh. I don't know what they use but it's almost like very sticky glue in hard form that is just braking down piece by piece and that's why when you flush it with water, you really not even doing whole lot, they are absolutely impassible to clean unless you use Acid to break down the particles and than flush it several times with water.
Look into Blitz, it works miracles or get Hardware Labs rads ....just kidding about the rads, but try the Blitz once and all done


----------



## KCDC

Perhaps an overnight soak in isoprobyl alcohol will help? Be sure it's completely drained from your rads, can't let it touch acrylic, as iso will break down plexi/acrylic before your very eyes.

I only do it when my rads are completely removed from my system and a situation calls for it.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

What is the best hardline tubing to use with the pastels and xt1 nuke?

I want it to look ultra clear i am polishing all my blocks.


And what fittings would be good with said tubing
Is the bitspower noncampher stuff with the allen key good
Or should i go with the monsoon and freecenter fittings?

Whats up with that alphacoool boroglass?


----------



## MNMadman

tatmMRKIV said:


> What is the best hardline tubing to use with the pastels and xt1 nuke?
> 
> I want it to look ultra clear i am polishing all my blocks.
> 
> 
> And what fittings would be good with said tubing
> Is the bitspower noncampher stuff with the allen key good
> Or should i go with the monsoon and freecenter fittings?
> 
> Whats up with that alphacoool boroglass?


If you want ultra clear, then glass tubing is the way to go. Other hard tubing will get scuffs and scratches.

Can't give specifics as I've never used hard tubing ... and likely never will. This is just based off TechTubers and other users' experiences here.


----------



## 414347

My nephew using Monsoon acrylic and Bitspower fittings with pastel, excellent combination, they work very nicely together. The tubing is resistant to scratches and any type of deterioration, he used the same ones for over 2 years and no issues.

I use Monsoon and Bitspower as well, but with distilled water and they work great


----------



## fx3861

NewUser16 said:


> My nephew using Monsoon acrylic and Bitspower fittings with pastel, excellent combination, they work very nicely together. The tubing is resistant to scratches and any type of deterioration, he used the same ones for over 2 years and no issues.
> 
> I use Monsoon and Bitspower as well, but with distilled water and they work great


Well acrylic is known to be more scratch resistant than petg, although i never work with acrylic tubing b4. Might want to use it on the next change cycle.


----------



## cram501

tatmMRKIV said:


> What is the best hardline tubing to use with the pastels and xt1 nuke?
> 
> I want it to look ultra clear i am polishing all my blocks.
> 
> 
> And what fittings would be good with said tubing
> Is the bitspower noncampher stuff with the allen key good
> Or should i go with the monsoon and freecenter fittings?
> 
> Whats up with that alphacoool boroglass?


Personally I would focus on the fittings and get the corresponding tubing with that manufacturer. I wouldn't mix and match manufacturers tubing and fittings although others may chime in here if they've had luck. I've used both Monsoon freecenter and Primochill rigid revolver fittings with good results. Monsoons support on these boards is excellent. I don't believe you want to use Petg with fluids that contain ethylene glycol so you may want to use acrylic tubing.

There are a number of threads you may want to read through if this is your first hard line tubing build and will probably answer your questions.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

tatmMRKIV said:


> What is the best hardline tubing to use with the pastels and xt1 nuke?
> 
> I want it to look ultra clear i am polishing all my blocks.
> 
> 
> And what fittings would be good with said tubing
> Is the bitspower noncampher stuff with the allen key good
> Or should i go with the monsoon and freecenter fittings?
> 
> Whats up with that alphacoool boroglass?


XT1 is incompatible with a lot of PETG. Get acrylic or glass.


----------



## Jaytie

NewUser16 said:


> Even boiling water which I have done to my Alphacool rad once won't get rid the slime out of them. Tbh. I don't know what they use but it's almost like very sticky glue in hard form that is just braking down piece by piece and that's why when you flush it with water, you really not even doing whole lot, they are absolutely impassible to clean unless you use Acid to break down the particles and than flush it several times with water.
> Look into Blitz, it works miracles or get Hardware Labs rads ....just kidding about the rads, but try the Blitz once and all done


Thanks for telling me your experience. Maybe I disassemble my system again and flush the radiators with something else. But since I wanted to buy HW Labs radiators in the first place when I built the system some years ago, I might swap them completely. But for now the system has to run like it is, since I don't have that much time... running it only with dist. water isn't the best way to go, right?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Distilled and a Biocide would be the best option, since just straight distilled you run the risk of growth


----------



## KCDC

tatmMRKIV said:


> What is the best hardline tubing to use with the pastels and xt1 nuke?
> 
> I want it to look ultra clear i am polishing all my blocks.
> 
> 
> And what fittings would be good with said tubing
> Is the bitspower noncampher stuff with the allen key good
> Or should i go with the monsoon and freecenter fittings?
> 
> Whats up with that alphacoool boroglass?



I did glass on my first rigid build. As long as you're ok with just straight and 90 degree runs, it's not that hard to work with if you use the right tools -- rotating vice, dremel, diamond cutting wheel and patience. The score and snap method was just too dirty and I wasted a lot of glass that way.

I love how mine looks. Used mayhems 12mm boro and phanteks 12mm fittings. It's harder to get the tubing in since there's no flex, I did break one trying to get it in a tough spot, so there is that issue. A little silicone lube on the orings helped a ton. Measuring a bit longer, testing, then grinding was the best method. Most important is proper eye and mouth protection, you do not want to breathe that dust in. Should probably do it outside away from people and animals.


----------



## war4peace

DarthBaggins said:


> Distilled and a Biocide would be the best option, since just straight distilled you run the risk of growth


I am preparing to perform a fan roundup review involving all of Noctua's new 120mm fan line (all 7 of them plus the adaptors). I plan on using pure distilled water for the loop, because this would eliminate inconsistencies for later reviewes due to the coolant having changed properties or no longer being available. Couple things to mention:

- the test machine would run for 3-4 hours every day;
- The whole testing phase would take between a week and two;
- At the end of the period the loop will be drained and left to dry out.
- All loop components (pump+res combo, CPU waterblock, radiators) are brand new and never have been used before.

Should I worry about growth for such short usage time?

Alternatively I could buy 10L of Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 and have them available for years, not sure if that's really needed though. So... any advice?


----------



## dwolvin

If you have a gallon jug you could just blend the same amount of biocide per batch, but really straight distilled should be fine for less than a week. Or; you could mix a batch of coolant normally and just not change it while swapping fans- it will not change in a month or two.


----------



## war4peace

dwolvin said:


> If you have a gallon jug you could just blend the same amount of biocide per batch, but really straight distilled should be fine for less than a week. Or; you could mix a batch of coolant normally and just not change it while swapping fans- it will not change in a month or two.


We're starting our fan reviews in direct relation with watercooling, and the same setup will be used for the next 3 years at least. So clearly it's not a matter of it remaining unchanged for a couple months, but for years to come. That's why I'd rather go for the simplest liquid possible - which is distilled water. Biocide formula might change in the future, or it might become unavailable, or whatever.


----------



## ryan92084

war4peace said:


> We're starting our fan reviews in direct relation with watercooling, and the same setup will be used for the next 3 years at least. So clearly it's not a matter of it remaining unchanged for a couple months, but for years to come. That's why I'd rather go for the simplest liquid possible - which is distilled water. Biocide formula might change in the future, or it might become unavailable, or whatever.


Something like pt-nuke which has been around for a decade and is used in extremely low concentrations might suit your purpose. Distilled water itself has variance between brands and likely even bottles so if you want to get down to that level of minutia it might make some sense to just pre treat several gallons up front. I personally stored the same treated gallon for 5+ years and had no noticeable ill effects.


----------



## Jaytie

DarthBaggins said:


> Distilled and a Biocide would be the best option, since just straight distilled you run the risk of growth


Ok, thanks!


----------



## war4peace

ryan92084 said:


> Something like pt-nuke which has been around for a decade and is used in extremely low concentrations might suit your purpose. Distilled water itself has variance between brands and likely even bottles so if you want to get down to that level of minutia it might make some sense to just pre treat several gallons up front. I personally stored the same treated gallon for 5+ years and had no noticeable ill effects.


I'm not worried about conductivity, rather thermal capacity, in order to be able to measure and compare power dissipation throughout the review.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mayhems Biocide Extreme works really well in comparison to other biocides. Also is extremely inexpensive.


----------



## 414347

DarthBaggins said:


> Mayhems Biocide Extreme works really well in comparison to other biocides. Also is extremely inexpensive.


I completely agree, I've use Mayhems Extreme for almost 2.5 years and there is nothing even close to be as good as this product. In fact I just got Mayhems new Biocide+ & Inhibitor+ this combination powerful and superior to any brand out there.
Thank you Mick


----------



## Undesirable

Anyone know if it's safe to use Mayhems Oneshot with nickel + plexi blocks?


----------



## Andrew LB

tatmMRKIV said:


> What is the best hardline tubing to use with the pastels and xt1 nuke?
> 
> I want it to look ultra clear i am polishing all my blocks.
> 
> 
> And what fittings would be good with said tubing
> Is the bitspower noncampher stuff with the allen key good
> Or should i go with the monsoon and freecenter fittings?
> 
> Whats up with that alphacoool boroglass?



I recently did my first hard tubing setup and ended up going with 14mm Barrow v4 compression fittings and 14mm Bitspower Crystal-link Acrylic tubing. Acrylic can be used with pretty much every type of coolant, is more clear than PETG, and more resistant to deformation if your pump fails and the coolant gets super hot. The downside of Acrylic is it's a bit harder to work with than PETG, though i didn't have any issues. Just make sure you get a few extra meters of the tubing because it does take a bit of practice to get the bends right. Once you make a bend, acrylic doesn't like being heated a second time to make an adjustment. I found that you gotta nail it on the first try.


----------



## Barefooter

Andrew LB said:


> I recently did my first hard tubing setup and ended up going with 14mm Barrow v4 compression fittings and 14mm Bitspower Crystal-link Acrylic tubing. Acrylic can be used with pretty much every type of coolant, is more clear than PETG, and more resistant to deformation if your pump fails and the coolant gets super hot. The downside of Acrylic is it's a bit harder to work with than PETG, though i didn't have any issues. Just make sure you get a few extra meters of the tubing because it does take a bit of practice to get the bends right. Once you make a bend, *acrylic doesn't like being heated a second time* to make an adjustment. I found that you gotta nail it on the first try.


Just curious, what happens when you heat it again? I've had some acrylic tubes get a little cloudy after heating more than once.


----------



## KCDC

war4peace said:


> I am preparing to perform a fan roundup review involving all of Noctua's new 120mm fan line (all 7 of them plus the adaptors). I plan on using pure distilled water for the loop, because this would eliminate inconsistencies for later reviewes due to the coolant having changed properties or no longer being available. Couple things to mention:
> 
> - the test machine would run for 3-4 hours every day;
> - The whole testing phase would take between a week and two;
> - At the end of the period the loop will be drained and left to dry out.
> - All loop components (pump+res combo, CPU waterblock, radiators) are brand new and never have been used before.
> 
> Should I worry about growth for such short usage time?
> 
> Alternatively I could buy 10L of Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 and have them available for years, not sure if that's really needed though. So... any advice?



Off Topic, but I'm guessing this roundup includes that new Noctua NF-A12x25 sterrox-based fan? Quite curious about that one due to the hype.


----------



## Andrew LB

Barefooter said:


> Just curious, what happens when you heat it again? I've had some acrylic tubes get a little cloudy after heating more than once.



Every time i tried to heat acrylic a second time it became cloudy. With acrylic it's all about taking your time and slowly applying even heat to the entire bend area. Heating too fast will result in the outside of the tube being too hot and the inside not hot enough. Or you just end up bubbling the crap out of it, resulting in a few expletives and flying pieces of ruined acrylic. lol.


edit/ i just realized i need to update my pic. that one is from when i had soft tubing.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

So i should get a heat gun with temp controller? What should i set it to?


----------



## war4peace

KCDC said:


> Off Topic, but I'm guessing this roundup includes that new Noctua NF-A12x25 sterrox-based fan? Quite curious about that one due to the hype.


All these:

NF-A12x25 PWM
NF-A12x25 FLX
NF-A12x25 ULN
NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM
NF-P12 redux-1300 PWM
NF-P12 redux-1300
NF-P12 redux-900

And the 140-to-120 adapter:

NA-SFMA1


----------



## kevindd992002

So I'll be disassembling my loop again and already drained the Mayhems UV Green Pastel that's in it. Mick (from Mayhems) told me that they received 3 or 4 reports already about HWLabs rads retaining flux even after running them through Blitz Part 1. I was surprised by that because I had thought that HWLabs rads are the cleanest rads you can buy. Regardless, he sent me a new concentrate (more strong) formula of Part 1 and told me that this will be the new formula moving forward. When I receive the product and is time for me to clean my rads again, do you recommend hot distilled water instead of normal temp distilled to mix with the concentrate and use in cleaning the rads?

Also, can I use tap water first (for all the components) to get rid of all the Mayhems Pastel inside and then just do Blitz Part 1 (for rads only) and 2 to clean everything and then flush with distilled water? Tap water in our country is not potable and is not known to be very clean so I'm wondering if this is ok to do?


----------



## war4peace

If tap water is a bit dirty, I'd use an Aquacomputer filter.


----------



## kevindd992002

That works but a bit too much for me. Would purified water work instead?

And do you go hot for all components?


----------



## fx3861

kevindd992002 said:


> That works but a bit too much for me. Would purified water work instead?
> 
> And do you go hot for all components?


Its all boils down on how deep your pocket goes. Usually i just flush with tap water & finish it off with DI. In your case, i would suggest boil the tap water first, let it cools down & use that for just flushing purposes.


----------



## kevindd992002

fx3861 said:


> Its all boils down on how deep your pocket goes. Usually i just flush with tap water & finish it off with DI. In your case, i would suggest boil the tap water first, let it cools down & use that for just flushing purposes.


Ok. Where do I use boiling water? Only on rads?


----------



## fx3861

kevindd992002 said:


> Ok. Where do I use boiling water? Only on rads?


Not boiling water, i mean boiled water. Pumps can can only withstand up to 60deg. Any higher might cause an issue. Can be used for flushing on any parts of the loop. Just be sure to rinse it well with DI afterwards. If i recall correctly the blitz package is hard water tolerance meaning it can be used with tap water. Boiled water is just a precaution depending on location. For my country, tap water is drinkable straight from the tap.


----------



## kevindd992002

fx3861 said:


> Not boiling water, i mean boiled water. Pumps can can only withstand up to 60deg. Any higher might cause an issue. Can be used for flushing on any parts of the loop. Just be sure to rinse it well with DI afterwards. If i recall correctly the blitz package is hard water tolerance meaning it can be used with tap water. Boiled water is just a precaution depending on location. For my country, tap water is drinkable straight from the tap.


Right, yeah I knew what you mean. But I read that sometimes it is better to run warm/boiling water in the rads to really clean it. I guess I have to ask Mick about that.


----------



## war4peace

TBH I never bothered pre-cleaning my radiators. I used EK, Watercool and XSPC radiators so far, none had any meaningful dirt in them, not even the mighty MoRa 420 (all three of them).
The filter caught black paint flakes from some stupid Alphacool fittings and only one of these flakes escaped somehow and got lodged in one of the GPU waterblocks, it was a 4mm long paint ribbon. I sold that GPU a couple months ago and told the buyer about this, he didn't care.


----------



## Andrew LB

Jaytie said:


> I'm sorry, what do you mean with "will do squad with Alphacool"? Do you mean, X1 may flush out stuff from the rads, that normal dist. water won't?
> 
> What is the problem in saying that I think that I flushed the radiators quiet well? I connected the radiators to the watertap and let hot water flow trough them for 2-3 minutes, followed by Cilit Bang, followed by another flush with watertap and a last one with dist. water. If you think, thats not enough even for Alphacool radiators, ok, but what else can I do, to flush them even more? No offense ether, but all I'm saying is, that the radiators have seen a lot of clean water, before being reinstalled
> 
> I agree that the radiators are the most plausible cause of the clouding, but I can't explain this to myself...



warm/hot water is definitely not going to remove all the residual flux from your radiators. I have two XSPC radiators and they're known for being cleaner than most (hardware labs being the best iirc) and after filling with hot water a half dozen times followed by shaking the crap out of them... i still ended up with gunk buildup in my blocks and a thin haze in all my tubing. 



I couldn't find anyone with Blitz in stock at the time so I mixed up a fairly strong solution of warm Citric Acid since its stronger than vinegar, leaves little to no residue, and smells a heck of a lot better. It's also a lot safer to use and easier to get than using Phosphoric Acid, which is the main ingredient in Blitz. I basically just filled up the rads with the solution being careful to get all air out and let them sit for 20 minutes. Poured a little out, shook them like crazy, and they were good to go. If the Citric Acid solution isn't slightly blue when you pour it out of the rads, its probably not strong enough. Rinse the rads with distilled then do it again but add some baking soda (make sure to thoroughly dissolve it) to the distilled in order to neutralize any residual acid in the radiator. One last flush and you're done. If you want to double check things, you can check the PH of the distilled before and after the final flush to make sure its as close to 7 as possible. I bought one of those $15 digital testers off amazon and it works great.


----------



## kevindd992002

Andrew LB said:


> Jaytie said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, what do you mean with "will do squad with Alphacool"? Do you mean, X1 may flush out stuff from the rads, that normal dist. water won't?
> 
> What is the problem in saying that I think that I flushed the radiators quiet well? I connected the radiators to the watertap and let hot water flow trough them for 2-3 minutes, followed by Cilit Bang, followed by another flush with watertap and a last one with dist. water. If you think, thats not enough even for Alphacool radiators, ok, but what else can I do, to flush them even more? No offense ether, but all I'm saying is, that the radiators have seen a lot of clean water, before being reinstalled /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> 
> I agree that the radiators are the most plausible cause of the clouding, but I can't explain this to myself...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> warm/hot water is definitely not going to remove all the residual flux from your radiators. I have two XSPC radiators and they're known for being cleaner than most (hardware labs being the best iirc) and after filling with hot water a half dozen times followed by shaking the crap out of them... i still ended up with gunk buildup in my blocks and a thin haze in all my tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't find anyone with Blitz in stock at the time so I mixed up a fairly strong solution of warm Citric Acid since its stronger than vinegar, leaves little to no residue, and smells a heck of a lot better. It's also a lot safer to use and easier to get than using Phosphoric Acid, which is the main ingredient in Blitz. I basically just filled up the rads with the solution being careful to get all air out and let them sit for 20 minutes. Poured a little out, shook them like crazy, and they were good to go. If the Citric Acid solution isn't slightly blue when you pour it out of the rads, its probably not strong enough. Rinse the rads with distilled then do it again but add some baking soda (make sure to thoroughly dissolve it) to the distilled in order to neutralize any residual acid in the radiator. One last flush and you're done. If you want to double check things, you can check the PH of the distilled before and after the final flush to make sure its as close to 7 as possible. I bought one of those $15 digital testers off amazon and it works great.
Click to expand...

I didn't mean warm distilled water alone. I have the Blitz Kit and was wondering if it would be better to use warm water when mixing it with Blitz 1 and using that solution for the rads? Or would ambient distilled water mixed with Blitz 1 just fine?

Same question when you use the Blitz 2, will warm water be better than using just ambient water in mixing it to come up with a solution and running it through the whole loop?


----------



## fx3861

kevindd992002 said:


> I didn't mean warm distilled water alone. I have the Blitz Kit and was wondering if it would be better to use warm water when mixing it with Blitz 1 and using that solution for the rads? Or would ambient distilled water mixed with Blitz 1 just fine?
> 
> Same question when you use the Blitz 2, will warm water be better than using just ambient water in mixing it to come up with a solution and running it through the whole loop?


Warm water + Blitz 2 will be slightly faster to clean the system, in my opinion. Same effect as dissolving warm water with sugar/salt vs ambient water with sugar/salt. But i may be wrong also if theres not much of a significant impact.


----------



## kevindd992002

How warm are we talking about?


----------



## kevindd992002

kevindd992002 said:


> How warm are we talking about?


Anyone?


----------



## Deedaz

kevindd992002 said:


> Anyone?


You're overthinking this. Blitz runs for 12+ hours, any heat from the water will dissipate over time and its the chemicals/acids that do the work anyway.


----------



## kevindd992002

Deedaz said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> You're overthinking this. Blitz runs for 12+ hours, any heat from the water will dissipate over time and its the chemicals/acids that do the work anyway.
Click to expand...

I know. But as discussed, if it's initially warm/hot then it will remove all stains better, won't it?


----------



## Deedaz

kevindd992002 said:


> I know. But as discussed, if it's initially warm/hot then it will remove all stains better, won't it?


You'd have to get it really hot, and by then you're more likely to damage something and it could affect the way the chemicals work. For example, the sanitizer we use at work breaks down if you use water that's too hot. If you're trying to get dye out, I would recommend trying the primochill reboot in addition to the blitz. It does a really good job of getting dye out and picked up a bunch even after I blitzed my system.


----------



## kevindd992002

Deedaz said:


> You'd have to get it really hot, and by then you're more likely to damage something and it could affect the way the chemicals work. For example, the sanitizer we use at work breaks down if you use water that's too hot. If you're trying to get dye out, I would recommend trying the primochill reboot in addition to the blitz. It does a really good job of getting dye out and picked up a bunch even after I blitzed my system.


I see, so I take it that you recommend just using normal ambient distilled water with Blitz 2. The Pastel has been running on the loop for just 2 weeks with a total of around 5 weeks (my computer was off for the remaining 3 weeks). So I don't feel that it's really hard to get the Pastel out.

I have the loop disassembled from the case now. Even with individual components, are you saying that I should just use normal ambient distilled water to clean everything out?


----------



## KnyghtFall

It's perfectly fine. As was stated, you're way overthinking it.


----------



## kevindd992002

KnyghtFall said:


> It's perfectly fine. As was stated, you're way overthinking it.


What's perfectly fine?


----------



## KnyghtFall

kevindd992002 said:


> What's perfectly fine?


Using room-temperature water...


----------



## Bluebell

Blitz 1 for the rads.


Blitz 2 for the loop and 24 hour leak test.


XT1-nuke blue for the coolant.


Mayhems ultra clear tubing.


----------



## kevindd992002

When I left the Blitz 1 solution in one of my radiators (I have two) for a few hours yesterday, I'm sure that there are still air bubbles inside but I just noticed/heard it only around the 6-hours mark because when I flip it 180 degrees vertically I hear a “swushing” sound and feel the liquid rushing down for a second. But during the 12 hours I left the liquid, I made sure to shake the hell out of it every hour or so, so the liquid touches every single angle of the radiator. Does this air pocket matter in the cleaning process and should I repeat the process again making sure that there is no more air bubbles the next time around?


----------



## KnyghtFall

kevindd992002 said:


> When I left the Blitz 1 solution in one of my radiators (I have two) for a few hours yesterday, I'm sure that there are still air bubbles inside but I just noticed/heard it only around the 6-hours mark because when I flip it 180 degrees vertically I hear a “swushing” sound and feel the liquid rushing down for a second. But during the 12 hours I left the liquid, I made sure to shake the hell out of it every hour or so, so the liquid touches every single angle of the radiator. Does this air pocket matter in the cleaning process and should I repeat the process again making sure that there is no more air bubbles the next time around?


The only way not to have air in there is if you fill it completely with the cleaning fluid, and if you do that you won’t be able to shake it like like you’re supposed to. You’re fine. Build your loop.


----------



## kevindd992002

KnyghtFall said:


> The only way not to have air in there is if you fill it completely with the cleaning fluid, and if you do that you won’t be able to shake it like like you’re supposed to. You’re fine. Build your loop.


Yeah. What worries me is because when I was already flushing it with distilled water, I wasn't hearing those swushing sounds anymore which means that I had a better job of removing as much air as I can when I was flushing compared to when I actually cleaned it with the acid. The whole purpose of shaking the cleaning liquid inside the radiator is to get it in all areas where there is air left, right?


----------



## chibi

Hey there, I have a few bottles of XT-1 Nuke Purple and was wondering about dilution ratios. I know it makes 1 Litre/100ml bottle. But if I wanted to get a deeper colour, can I do 200ml/1Litre? Will this mess with the PH levels and go bad?


----------



## BradleyW

I ordered X1 Clear Concentrate. Website suggests 250ml makes 2Lt coolant. Bottle suggests 250ml makes 1Lt coolant. I purchased the item based on the online information. Which do I go with?


----------



## KnyghtFall

Add Mayhem's dye.


----------



## KnyghtFall

BradleyW said:


> I ordered X1 Clear Concentrate. Website suggests 250ml makes 2Lt coolant. Bottle suggests 250ml makes 1Lt coolant. I purchased the item based on the online information. Which do I go with?


Everything I see on the website and have read elsewhere says 100mL coolant into 900mL water, so go with that ratio.


----------



## Deedaz

BradleyW said:


> I ordered X1 Clear Concentrate. Website suggests 250ml makes 2Lt coolant. Bottle suggests 250ml makes 1Lt coolant. I purchased the item based on the online information. Which do I go with?


Always go with what your packaging says. They make changes/updates to the formulas over time so instructions will change. You may have just gotten an older bottle.


----------



## BradleyW

I've checked a few websites. All state 250ml makes 2lt. Product image shows a bottle which states 250ml makes 1lt in it's description.
X1 clear pre-mix 1lt is £7. Concentrate .25lt is £9.50. Can't see why anyone would buy concentrate for the same amount of coolant once mixed, so it must be .25lt = 2lt.


----------



## M3TAl

Is the minimum 10% mix ratio for XT-1 Nuke sufficient for ambient cooling if you truly want to get the ~5 years in system life out of it? Or is a higher ratio needed?


----------



## jhaze84

BradleyW said:


> I've checked a few websites. All state 250ml makes 2lt. Product image shows a bottle which states 250ml makes 1lt in it's description.
> X1 clear pre-mix 1lt is £7. Concentrate .25lt is £9.50. Can't see why anyone would buy concentrate for the same amount of coolant once mixed, so it must be .25lt = 2lt.


I noticed the same issue as you. The bottle says it makes 1 liter (as well as the picture of the bottle on the website), but the website description says it makes 2 liters. I'm going with 2 liters and will see how it goes.


----------



## Deedaz

Guys, the products change over time. What you got is old stock. Always follow the directions on the product in your hand. :doh:


----------



## jhaze84

Deedaz said:


> Guys, the products change over time. What you got is old stock. Always follow the directions on the product in your hand. :doh:


Disappointing if its old stock. It was advertised as making 2 liters. The bottle has a sell-by date of December 2022. Seems consistent with the advertised 3 year shelf life. Maybe new product in old packaging?

Either way, if its diluted a bit more than intended it shouldn't be that big a deal... I'll keep an eye on it.


----------



## Semitangible

Question for anyone using UV Laser Green...

I've been looking at several builds, videos, and images of this fluid, and there's variation in what I see of the actual color it makes.

I'm going for a glowing cyan color (re: Mako from Final Fantasy VII). It looks like this fluid makes this color in some images, and in others it seems like it's more green. The variation might be where it's just not as illuminated/close to the UV, or color errors in the video or photography, etc.

Can someone confirm that this will make a glowing cyan color? I'm planning on using two 30cm Nanoxia UV LED strips to illuminate it in an ATX case.


----------



## atomicus

Semitangible said:


> Question for anyone using UV Laser Green...
> 
> I've been looking at several builds, videos, and images of this fluid, and there's variation in what I see of the actual color it makes.
> 
> I'm going for a glowing cyan color (re: Mako from Final Fantasy VII). It looks like this fluid makes this color in some images, and in others it seems like it's more green. The variation might be where it's just not as illuminated/close to the UV, or color errors in the video or photography, etc.
> 
> Can someone confirm that this will make a glowing cyan color? I'm planning on using two 30cm Nanoxia UV LED strips to illuminate it in an ATX case.



UV can be a tricky thing to photograph accurately, so I am quite sure if you're seeing Laser Green show as a cyan colour in a photo it will be as a result of colour error. In the flesh it will appear green unless you add something else to it. If you want cyan, you might have to experiment with a mixture, I'm sure it's possible. 

Keep in mind though, in my experience with UV, the 'wow' effect you get from it wears off fairly quickly as a result of the UV component breaking down. Within a matter of weeks you see a noticeable drop off in the vibrancy, although it shouldn't go away altogether, not for quite some time anyway. I'm sure all dyes vary to some degree or another though, so your mileage may vary.


----------



## Leonko

btw does anyone know how it is going with new mayhem nano coolant? been a whlie since any update. Mayhem is also offline for 8 months


----------



## kevindd992002

So I just finished refilling my system with the same Mayhems Pastel coolant and before I did that I made sure to clean everything with Mayhems Blitz Part 2 and flushed with distilled water 4 times afterwards. I have an issue with my Aquacomputer reservoir as shown in this pic:










You see how there seems to be a line that is vacant of the coolant? I just don't understand how this would happen. The reservoir is glass and is very clean before I filled the system with the coolant. Any thoughts?


----------



## 414347

That is strange but I've seen before with other glass reservoirs. It could be few things, the reservoir could have internally defective glass where there will be no residue but its as if there is a grease line, its like line of wax that can't be cleaned, is that new reservoir?

I always wash my new reservoirs with hot water and Windex after all.

BTW. love the green


----------



## kevindd992002

NewUser16 said:


> That is strange but I've seen before with other glass reservoirs. It could be few things, the reservoir could have internally defective glass where there will be no residue but its as if there is a grease line, its like line of wax that can't be cleaned, is that new reservoir?
> 
> I always wash my new reservoirs with hot water and Windex after all.
> 
> BTW. love the green


Could it be dirt? I don't think it is defective as I cleaned this with dishwashing liquid before installing it into the system and even used Blitz Part 2 to thoroughly clean the whole loop. This is definitely a new reservoir that has been operational with coolant for maybe a total of a few weeks. Everything is cleaned thoroughly but if I really look closely it does resemble like dirt but I'm not a 100% sure.

Thanks! Here's the whole loop:










I have yet to install the Darkside RGB/UV strips that I have


----------



## 414347

kevindd992002 said:


> Could it be dirt? I don't think it is defective as I cleaned this with dishwashing liquid before installing it into the system and even used Blitz Part 2 to thoroughly clean the whole loop. This is definitely a new reservoir that has been operational with coolant for maybe a total of a few weeks. Everything is cleaned thoroughly but if I really look closely it does resemble like dirt but I'm not a 100% sure.
> 
> Thanks! Here's the whole loop:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have yet to install the Darkside RGB/UV strips that I have


Very nice system, clean.

It could be dirt, just let it run for a while maybe it disappear on its own.

Talking about dirt. I will share something that will or should I say should open some fox eyes when they dealing with custom loops especially radiators. I build my latest system about 2 years ago, its huge dual loop with 4x 480 Nemesis Ultra stealth rads for quiet operation so fans can run at min. speed. Keep in mind Hardware Labs are among the cleanest of all brands. When I got them I used tab water ( warm to rinse them of manufacturers crap, I shook them until my arms were sore, repeated at least 10 times each rad until there was nothing coming out of them, it was a lot of work.

I had my system running for 2 years and annually I would use blitz#2 to flash any crap and refill with distilled and mayhems Biocide Extreme, super product. Anyways, I upgraded my gpus so I took everything apart and afterwards I know this my CPU block was a bit dirty, I took it apart and inside there were black and little green stuff, not algae, not anything from liquid but looked like a fluke from rads that got sucked in there over time

Pure curiosity, I took one of the rads that was already cleaned extremely well 2 years ago when I purchased it, I boiled water which i never did before, the water was so hot that I had to use towel to hold the rad I shook it several times and empty into clear glass container......holy crap..more flukes than I ever seen and I mean so much that I was shocked and this was in them for 2 years, it was pretty much glued the walls of the rads. I did that with all 4 of them, every one of them had the same thing I couldn't believe that for over 2 years I thought I had clean rads and they were so filthy. It took me 2 hours to clean them with boiling water I didn't have Blitz#1 and I couldn't wait, now I know they are super clean.

NOTE: This is for anyone who thinks their rads are clean, unless you use Blitz#1 or totally boiling water

The point is when you have radiator and you think by flashing them even 100 times with even warm water will clean them...not even close, you need either totally boiling water or Blitz#1 otherwise the factory fluke is like glue it will be there and slowly contaminate your liquid and clog your blocks.

I will post some pictures of how it looks with boiling water and how much crap was there even thou I had this rads cleaned very well (so I thought) and running in system for 2 years.

This is for people who need to realize that cleaning rads especially none Hardware Labs required extreme cleaning, otherwise they will not be cleaned, don't be delusional thinking you shook it enough, its like having a grease on your hands and trying to wash that with cold water and soap.

But as for your reservoir , it might be some residue got stock on the wall, it might go away once liquid gets warmer.

I'm only posting this because I was actually really surprised, I really thought my system was very clean and this crap (totally manufacturers welding flukes was still in there


----------



## war4peace

That is not from dirty radiators, that is most likely black paint flaking off from components (fittings, etc) and ending up in the radiator because the radiator inside is most likely to capture those flakes.
So far I never cleaned any radiators I used. That includes EKWB, Alphacool, XSPC, Raijintek, Watercool brands. I just let the aquacomputer filter capture the dirt, so far there was very little of it being caught.


----------



## 414347

war4peace said:


> That is not from dirty radiators, that is most likely black paint flaking off from components (fittings, etc) and ending up in the radiator because the radiator inside is most likely to capture those flakes.
> So far I never cleaned any radiators I used. That includes EKWB, Alphacool, XSPC, Raijintek, Watercool brands. I just let the aquacomputer filter capture the dirt, so far there was very little of it being caught.



I don't post unless I'm absolutely sure what information I'm spreading and sharing with others. I wish that originally I made a big and clear enough picture of what the black and green and actually yellow particles were, but I can absolutely assure you, its not from fittings or blocks or other components, its from radiators that will still contain sticky residue that they use to soldered them 


I should have made something clear..there is 1 brand new radiator, same Nemesis but brand new. On top of the fact that I had some stuff in my CPU I also want to clean that rad like I did with the others 2 years ago. 

You see 2 containers with crap in it, they both have exactly the same flux (lots of it) and 1 is from brand new (never used radiator) the other from my previous rad that have been "so called clean" the content of both is identical and its not a any sort of paint or plastic.

There is a reason I got brand new radiator but instead of me trying to make this a lengthily legitimate explanation, trust me when I tell you, I don't say things unless I'm sure of it, so my advice to all... 

Clean your radiators the proper way if you want your system to be healthy and your liquids and components to last a long, long time


----------



## MNMadman

Yeah, I've gotten crap like that out of brand new EK rads that haven't been connected to anything. Took me four flushes before the water came out clean on one of them, and two flushes on the other. And that was with boiling water. I've never used anything other than boiling water to flush rads out, and I've never flushed any other components out.


----------



## 414347

MNMadman said:


> Yeah, I've gotten crap like that out of brand new EK rads that haven't been connected to anything. Took me four flushes before the water came out clean on one of them, and two flushes on the other. And that was with boiling water. I've never used anything other than boiling water to flush rads out, and I've never flushed any other components out.


Yap..that's the only way, really boiling water or acid solution that can actually loosen up the crap that is close to inner fins channels and outlets, even warm water wont do it.

My nephew got 2x brand new Hardware Labs radiator about 3 weeks ago but because hes waiting for Caslabs case he cleaned the rads the way I did 2 years ago, so after so many flashes and shakes with warm water, that was before my discovery he said initially he had quite a bit of crap but afterwords they were clean.

The other day I showed him what came out of mine after using boiling hot water with radiators that were cleaned already months ago but with cold water, he went home and used boiling water on the 2 rads that he just did and he called me up saying that there was actually more flux came out of them the the first time he rinse them only with warm water.

You might not be newbie to watercooling, but you always learn something new that can and usually will help later on.


----------



## kevindd992002

NewUser16 said:


> Very nice system, clean.
> 
> It could be dirt, just let it run for a while maybe it disappear on its own.
> 
> Talking about dirt. I will share something that will or should I say should open some fox eyes when they dealing with custom loops especially radiators. I build my latest system about 2 years ago, its huge dual loop with 4x 480 Nemesis Ultra stealth rads for quiet operation so fans can run at min. speed. Keep in mind Hardware Labs are among the cleanest of all brands. When I got them I used tab water ( warm to rinse them of manufacturers crap, I shook them until my arms were sore, repeated at least 10 times each rad until there was nothing coming out of them, it was a lot of work.
> 
> I had my system running for 2 years and annually I would use blitz#2 to flash any crap and refill with distilled and mayhems Biocide Extreme, super product. Anyways, I upgraded my gpus so I took everything apart and afterwards I know this my CPU block was a bit dirty, I took it apart and inside there were black and little green stuff, not algae, not anything from liquid but looked like a fluke from rads that got sucked in there over time
> 
> Pure curiosity, I took one of the rads that was already cleaned extremely well 2 years ago when I purchased it, I boiled water which i never did before, the water was so hot that I had to use towel to hold the rad I shook it several times and empty into clear glass container......holy crap..more flukes than I ever seen and I mean so much that I was shocked and this was in them for 2 years, it was pretty much glued the walls of the rads. I did that with all 4 of them, every one of them had the same thing I couldn't believe that for over 2 years I thought I had clean rads and they were so filthy. It took me 2 hours to clean them with boiling water I didn't have Blitz#1 and I couldn't wait, now I know they are super clean.
> 
> NOTE: This is for anyone who thinks their rads are clean, unless you use Blitz#1 or totally boiling water
> 
> The point is when you have radiator and you think by flashing them even 100 times with even warm water will clean them...not even close, you need either totally boiling water or Blitz#1 otherwise the factory fluke is like glue it will be there and slowly contaminate your liquid and clog your blocks.
> 
> I will post some pictures of how it looks with boiling water and how much crap was there even thou I had this rads cleaned very well (so I thought) and running in system for 2 years.
> 
> This is for people who need to realize that cleaning rads especially none Hardware Labs required extreme cleaning, otherwise they will not be cleaned, don't be delusional thinking you shook it enough, its like having a grease on your hands and trying to wash that with cold water and soap.
> 
> But as for your reservoir , it might be some residue got stock on the wall, it might go away once liquid gets warmer.
> 
> I'm only posting this because I was actually really surprised, I really thought my system was very clean and this crap (totally manufacturers welding flukes was still in there


Thanks.

I surely hope that it will go away in its own. I'm tired disassembling/assembling this system multiple times now and I cleaned the hell out of it from the very start. There's just really so much you can do because it is not a controlled/sterile environment.

That's why I cleaned my HWLabs rads multiple times (over the course of the disassembly/assembly processes) with Blitz #1. Mayhems even sent me a new solution of their Blitz #1 which is what I used in my last rad cleaning.



war4peace said:


> That is not from dirty radiators, that is most likely black paint flaking off from components (fittings, etc) and ending up in the radiator because the radiator inside is most likely to capture those flakes.
> So far I never cleaned any radiators I used. That includes EKWB, Alphacool, XSPC, Raijintek, Watercool brands. I just let the aquacomputer filter capture the dirt, so far there was very little of it being caught.


What do you think of the dirt in my reservoir?


----------



## 414347

kevindd992002 said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I surely hope that it will go away in its own. I'm tired disassembling/assembling this system multiple times now and I cleaned the hell out of it from the very start. There's just really so much you can do because it is not a controlled/sterile environment.
> 
> That's why I cleaned my HWLabs rads multiple times (over the course of the disassembly/assembly processes) with Blitz #1. Mayhems even sent me a new solution of their Blitz #1 which is what I used in my last rad cleaning.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think of the dirt in my reservoir?


I know you not asking me but personalty I think its some sort of liquid suspension, its like a thin gel, it will almost act like a wax that you smear onto glass and everything else its just slights off it. Might have been some reaction to something, but that's my guess..

You don't need to take anything apart but open the top lid and its easy in your case due to flex tubing and stick something e.g. straw and slight on it to see if it traces of straw takes that off, if it does than something got into a liquid or that reservoirs.


----------



## kevindd992002

NewUser16 said:


> I know you not asking me but personalty I think its some sort of liquid suspension, its like a thin gel, it will almost act like a wax that you smear onto glass and everything else its just slights off it. Might have been some reaction to something, but that's my guess..
> 
> You don't need to take anything apart but open the top lid and its easy in your case due to flex tubing and stick something e.g. straw and slight on it to see if it traces of straw takes that off, if it does than something got into a liquid or that reservoirs.


That seems like a good idea. If it does slide off the glass, I guess it's fine to have that "dirt" mix with the liquid, yes?


----------



## broodro0ster

kevindd992002 said:


> What do you think of the dirt in my reservoir?


I'm not sure why it is there, but here's how you can clean it without draining the loop. The only thing you need is an empty fill bottle.

Open the reservoir, squeeze you fill bottle and put the straw into the water. It will suck all the water out of your res and you can clean it now. You can even remove the glass from the base if you want to.

This is how I changed from a 13cm reservoir to 20cm reservoir tube without draining my loop. It worked perfectly without spilling 1 drop.


----------



## kevindd992002

broodro0ster said:


> I'm sure why it is there, but here's how you can clean it without draining the loop. The only thing you need is an empty fill bottle.
> 
> Open the reservoir, squeeze you fill bottle and put the straw into the water. It will suck all the water out of your res and you can clean it now. You can even remove the glass from the base if you want to.
> 
> This is how I changed from a 13cm reservoir to 20cm reservoir tube without draining my loop. It worked perfectly without spilling 1 drop.


You're sure or not sure why it is there? 

Your method makes sense but it won't be applicable in my reservoir. The top cover is held by this mount: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2918 . Also, to remove the top cover you would have to twist the glass and the cover in opposite directions and the bottom cover will also loosen at the same time. It's not like acrylic reservoirs where it is very easy to remove the top cover.

So all I can do is to open one of the G4 holes on top and suck a little bit of coolant using my fill bottle (with the method you suggested) because the res is filled to the brim. And then I use some kind of straw or stick to get rid of that rid. Or do you have any better ideas?


----------



## broodro0ster

kevindd992002 said:


> You're sure or not sure why it is there?
> 
> Your method makes sense but it won't be applicable in my reservoir. The top cover is held by this mount: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2918 . Also, to remove the top cover you would have to twist the glass and the cover in opposite directions and the bottom cover will also loosen at the same time. It's not like acrylic reservoirs where it is very easy to remove the top cover.
> 
> So all I can do is to open one of the G4 holes on top and suck a little bit of coolant using my fill bottle (with the method you suggested) because the res is filled to the brim. And then I use some kind of straw or stick to get rid of that rid. Or do you have any better ideas?


Sorry, I mean't not sure. I've editted my post.

I didn't see the bracket in your picture and I didn't know a glass reservoir top is harder to open. I have only worked with acrylic tubes so far.
What you suggest is something worth trying. Maybe with a Q-tip


----------



## war4peace

NewUser16 said:


> I don't post unless I'm absolutely sure what information I'm spreading and sharing with others. I wish that originally I made a big and clear enough picture of what the black and green and actually yellow particles were, but I can absolutely assure you, its not from fittings or blocks or other components, its from radiators that will still contain sticky residue that they use to soldered them


Well you just posted incomplete information, and I used that incomplete information to match it with something I've seen myself. Sorry if I let you down  but really, it's not my fault your pictures didn't tell the whole story.
Good luck with solving the problem.


----------



## kevindd992002

broodro0ster said:


> Sorry, I mean't not sure. I've editted my post.
> 
> I didn't see the bracket in your picture and I didn't know a glass reservoir top is harder to open. I have only worked with acrylic tubes so far.
> What you suggest is something worth trying. Maybe with a Q-tip


No worries.

Yeah, I'll see what I can do. It's very tiring to have to fill and refill this whole system for more than I can count now


----------



## 414347

war4peace said:


> Well you just posted incomplete information, and I used that incomplete information to match it with something I've seen myself. Sorry if I let you down  but really, it's not my fault your pictures didn't tell the whole story.
> Good luck with solving the problem.


Yes, sorry my fault. You gave your opinion based on the info I provided and you right that info was insufficient. We here to help if we can


----------



## war4peace

No worries mate, it happens. Best of luck with cleaning your loop!


----------



## 414347

God bless Caselabs family


----------



## BucketInABucket

What's the difference between X-1 and XT-1 Nuke? I can find next to no comparative information on the net...


----------



## Bluebell

BucketInABucket said:


> What's the difference between X-1 and XT-1 Nuke? I can find next to no comparative information on the net...



The nuke is newer and UV.


----------



## DarthBaggins

x1 and XT1 are very different overall. Here's a breakdown of the coolants: Which coolant is right for me?

Basically XT-1 is Ethylene Glycol based and X1 is made from vegetable extract. In the future just go to Mayhems' site for a breakdown of their fluids/coolants. Their support page has all the info and so does their store since their make-up and use is listed in the product's description.


----------



## gamefoo21

I also believe that there is a difference in lifespan.

Nuke XT-1 is 7 years in the bottle, and up to 5 years in the loop.

X-1 is 3 years in the bottle, and up to 1-3 years in the loop. Though finding hard information about it's rated life span is difficult, and I'm going off what I've read and heard.


----------



## BucketInABucket

Is there a difference in performance between the two? That's probably what's most important to me honestly.


----------



## Eni-AU

Hi,

I'm building my first custom watercooling loop and today I received my shipment with Mayhems X1 clear 250ml concentrates. However I found a discrepancy in mixing ratio information.
On Mayhems website I can see that 250ml clear X1 concentrate makes 2l coolant (125ml per liter). On the actual bottle it says that I should mix 250ml with 750ml DI.
See photos. https://imgur.com/a/hsGgSfU

Can someone please clarify? Mayhems is now closed for factory holiday till 28 Aug and the do not reply to emails and I'd like to finish my build and fill the loop next weekend 

Thanks!


----------



## Deedaz

Eni-AU said:


> Hi,
> 
> I'm building my first custom watercooling loop and today I received my shipment with Mayhems X1 clear 250ml concentrates. However I found a discrepancy in mixing ratio information.
> On Mayhems website I can see that 250ml clear X1 concentrate makes 2l coolant (125ml per liter). On the actual bottle it says that I should mix 250ml with 750ml DI.
> See photos. https://imgur.com/a/hsGgSfU
> 
> Can someone please clarify? Mayhems is now closed for factory holiday till 28 Aug and the do not reply to emails and I'd like to finish my build and fill the loop next weekend
> 
> Thanks!


Always go with the instructions on the bottle. The website reflects the newest formula, you probably got the older version.


----------



## Eni-AU

Deedaz said:


> Always go with the instructions on the bottle. The website reflects the newest formula, you probably got the older version.


I have ordered it from this same website (it is their main global store), and at the time of buying it also stated 250ml bottle = 2l coolant. So why would I receive something different to what I had ordered? Now I would need twice as much.


----------



## kevindd992002

Can anyone confirm if Mayhems' support is still active? Mick stopped replying to me for no apparent reason. I may have asked too many questions but they all make sense and all of their customers deserve proper support. I hate that they don't reply at all now and I followed up countless times already.


----------



## war4peace

I don't want to sound like an ominous raven, but with all the inconsistencies as of late and Mayhems going AWOL for an extended period of time, I'm starting to feel a bit wary of the company and its future. Might be just my paranoia, but I had seen these symptoms many times before elsewhere.


----------



## kevindd992002

war4peace said:


> I don't want to sound like an ominous raven, but with all the inconsistencies as of late and Mayhems going AWOL for an extended period of time, I'm starting to feel a bit wary of the company and its future. Might be just my paranoia, but I had seen these symptoms many times before elsewhere.


AWOL here you mean? In their defense, Mick did a proper goodbye to these forums a few months back IIRC.


----------



## Mayhem

Hmm Yup extremely bizzy working. Support can be got though our site and there is plenty of knowledge and talent on this forum for people to help you. You guys do not need me to hold your hand.


----------



## kevindd992002

broodro0ster said:


> Sorry, I mean't not sure. I've editted my post.
> 
> I didn't see the bracket in your picture and I didn't know a glass reservoir top is harder to open. I have only worked with acrylic tubes so far.
> What you suggest is something worth trying. Maybe with a Q-tip





Mayhem said:


> Hmm Yup extremely bizzy working. Support can be got though our site and there is plenty of knowledge and talent on this forum for people to help you. You guys do not need me to hold your hand.


Mick, I did go through your support site but nobody's replying. Are you a one-man team when it comes to support? If you're busy, isn't there anyone that can assist us? As you know, after-sales support is very very important and can sometimes be the basis for how a company is good or bad.


----------



## Leonko

yeah i would also very like to ask when deep red will be back in stock?  its sold out for a very long time

https://www.mayhems.net/collections/standard-dyes/products/deep-red-15ml?variant=3752114454558


----------



## DarthBaggins

BucketInABucket said:


> Is there a difference in performance between the two? That's probably what's most important to me honestly.


XT-1 is primarily designed for Sub zero cooling. Personally I would just go with X1 as it performs well and is easier to use in the long run. Also X1 has little to no component compatibility issues.


----------



## Mayhem

kevindd992002 said:


> Mick, I did go through your support site but nobody's replying. Are you a one-man team when it comes to support? If you're busy, isn't there anyone that can assist us? As you know, after-sales support is very very important and can sometimes be the basis for how a company is good or bad.


Yes im the only one who does support when we get time. Mayhems is just 3 staff and one is part time. My self and my partner (lass) do every thing pertaining to Mayhems and as you can expect its non stop day in day out. I try to get back to support once a day but right as of now were on holiday and taking a well deserved week off rest.

Deep red is out of stock because the last batch of dye i got was not up to standard and i refused it. Im awaiting a new batch but it takes time as they said they would need to wait till its made. I've been tightening and improving our qc.

Things may be changing in the future to grow Mayhems bigger and better hopefully. Since I have taken over Mayhems we have done a lot of streamlining and simplifying processes that were just crazy and needless but it all takes time.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Guessing you're doing more with AlphaCool now too? Any other companies we might look forward to seeing you working along with?


----------



## Mayhem

Actually no were not doing any thing with Alphacool. They do there own thing. I am in talks with Heatkiller over a project and various other companies about other things but these will all take time.


----------



## BucketInABucket

DarthBaggins said:


> XT-1 is primarily designed for Sub zero cooling. Personally I would just go with X1 as it performs well and is easier to use in the long run. Also X1 has little to no component compatibility issues.


Gotcha, thank you!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mayhem said:


> Actually no were not doing any thing with Alphacool. They do there own thing. I am in talks with Heatkiller over a project and various other companies about other things but these will all take time.


Oh ok, can't wait to see what you and HeatKiller produce (if it comes to market). :specool:


----------



## 414347

DarthBaggins said:


> Oh ok, can't wait to see what you and HeatKiller produce (if it comes to market). :specool:


I have been using Heatkiller for years, its absolutely top notch quality. I have also a ton of Aquacomputer products and I mean a lot (3 Aquaeros XT, maybe 7-8 PA3 Ultra, 2 cuplex kryos silver and some GPU blocs and their quality is outstanding as well but tbh. If I would have to chose one.......I think Heatkiller wins for me.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

my x1 blood red is like on first day, had doubts about it. 9th month now


----------



## Mayhem

NewUser16 said:


> I have been using Heatkiller for years, its absolutely top notch quality. I have also a ton of Aquacomputer products and I mean a lot (3 Aquaeros XT, maybe 7-8 PA3 Ultra, 2 cuplex kryos silver and some GPU blocs and their quality is outstanding as well but tbh. If I would have to chose one.......I think Heatkiller wins for me.


All of my home gear contains every thing Heatkiller and Aqua computer except the fittings. I like alpha cool and thermal take new pro fittings and various other brands. coolant wise at home i just use water, biocide+ and inhibitor+. I used to use dyes then realised i have no friends to show off too .


----------



## 414347

Mayhem said:


> All of my home gear contains every thing Heatkiller and Aqua computer except the fittings. I like alpha cool and thermal take new pro fittings and various other brands. coolant wise at home i just use water, biocide+ and inhibitor+. I used to use dyes then realised i have no friends to show off too .


I love both Heatkiller and Aquacomputer because of the quality but also their support which is outstanding. I have been using DI with Mayhems Biocide Extreme for the past 2-3 years....outstanding results. Few months ago I took 2 of my spare Heatkiller GPU blocks after 2 years of testing with Biocide Extreme I have posted the results in here somewhere, the block looked like brand new, absolutely astonished.

Few months ago I have received the new product "Mayhems Biocide + & Inhibitor+” It’s been running in my huge dual loop system pretty much 24/7 for the past 7-8 months. I am very excited about these 2 products because even thou I have pretty much all copper and nickel plated blocks and radiators, some of the Aquacomputer small items e.g. inline temperature sensors are stainless steel. I don't know if that have any negative effect if any in combination with rest of the components, but having Mayhems Inhibitor + and knowing that it does protect my MIX components its very comforting.

So far I am very impressed with Mayhems new products, very effective and knowing that they have been in testing for a while before throwing into a public its huge +.

In few months I will be taking apart my GPU and CPU block to inspect how well Biocide+ & Inhibitor+ works I will post full results with pictures, but from the view now and knowing how well Biocide Extreme worked I can see no other results but only the best.

First I blitz the system, even thou I really didn't need it, Blitz#2 became my annual cleaning solution, them I recited new Mayhems goodies...Biocide+ & Inhibitor+.

I filled my loops with DI and new Mayhems Biocide+ & Inhibitor+ (4 drops =1ml of each per 1L), you can still see the micro bobbles. than the last pic is after I believe close to 8 months if not longer, it’s been a while, it looks so darn clear, it’s unbelievable, keep in mind I run this system 24/7 pretty much never shots down.

In few months I will be taking everything apart for some upgrades so I will open the blocks and post very detail info...Stay tune.


----------



## Eni-AU

Eni-AU said:


> Hi,
> 
> I'm building my first custom watercooling loop and today I received my shipment with Mayhems X1 clear 250ml concentrates. However I found a discrepancy in mixing ratio information.
> On Mayhems website I can see that 250ml clear X1 concentrate makes 2l coolant (125ml per liter). On the actual bottle it says that I should mix 250ml with 750ml DI.
> See photos. https://imgur.com/a/hsGgSfU
> 
> Can someone please clarify? Mayhems is now closed for factory holiday till 28 Aug and the do not reply to emails and I'd like to finish my build and fill the loop next weekend
> 
> Thanks!


UPDATE
I received an e-mail from Mayhems clarifying that there was a mistake on the labels. The website tells the correct ratio of mixing.
Thank you. My first wc system is up and running on X1 Clear with red non-stain dye


----------



## Mayhem

Eni-AU said:


> UPDATE
> I received an e-mail from Mayhems clarifying that there was a mistake on the labels. The website tells the correct ratio of mixing.
> Thank you. My first wc system is up and running on X1 Clear with red non-stain dye


yeh we messed up (i messed) up a bit ago on some labels and didn't realise the mistakes till to late. Always keep an eye on our site as it has the latest info all the time.

Also keep an eye on out FB and FB groups we keep ppl updated all the time there as well.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mayhem said:


> All of my home gear contains every thing Heatkiller and Aqua computer except the fittings. I like alpha cool and thermal take new pro fittings and various other brands. coolant wise at home i just use water, biocide+ and inhibitor+. I used to use dyes then realised i have no friends to show off too .


I'm planning on swapping out all my EK goodies for HeatKiller, and i have a big love for AquaComputers gear too (still have my Kuplex Cryos Delrin stored away for now):thumb:


----------



## 414347

DarthBaggins said:


> I'm planning on swapping out all my EK goodies for HeatKiller, and i have a big love for AquaComputers gear too (still have my Kuplex Cryos Delrin stored away for now):thumb:


Yap! sometimes change is good


----------



## Leonko

any news about that nano fluid ? enough time has passed, since you said you have done some testing (maybe a year +-) and no news since then


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'd say they are still testing with it, but I would also love to hear an update on the new fluid.


----------



## Mayhem

Its worked real well up to a level. Then failed like a avalanche and collapsed spectacularly . Were re working the formula and changing over some of the finer details. Also doesn't help we cannot produce on mass .... atm its all quiet on the western front and i need more time to investigate and look at other options.


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

This might be a dumb question but is the Pastel Gray premix a combination of Pastel Black and Pastel White? I want to try something new since I've been using pastel white for years and the Light Grey caught my eye.


----------



## Mayhem

FaLLeNAn9eL said:


> This might be a dumb question but is the Pastel Gray premix a combination of Pastel Black and Pastel White? I want to try something new since I've been using pastel white for years and the Light Grey caught my eye.


No Pastel Gray is not black and white its two to three very diffrent colours.


----------



## war4peace

...or do as I did... use Pastel black, switch to white and not clean your radiator thoroughly enough


----------



## Mayhem

war4peace said:


> ...or do as I did... use Pastel black, switch to white and not clean your radiator thoroughly enough


Lol.... Yeh black is made up of 4 colours so can do it but on mass it doesn't work as well.


----------



## Vlada011

I have Mayhems Ultra Clear tubes 13/10mm and Mayhem X1 UV Red Coolant wait to remove components in case.
Only I could say on first look are much more clear than any transparent tubes I saw.

For now I use only destilled water 6-7 days.
Than I will share experience with you about Mayhem X1 and Ultra Clear.
I'm very angry because legs and HDD/SSD kit should arrive before few days, but looks like in Monday.
I would install everything in case now, but I don't know how to install legs on case later with custom loop inside case.


----------



## crafty615

Was there a change in the UV green formula? My first bottle from ~3 years ago was an dark green in normal light and a nice bright glowing lighter green under UV. My latest bottle from earlier this year was yellow under normal light but maintained the same bright glowing lighter green under UV. I had to resort to mixing what I had left of my old UV green concentrate into the new to maintain the green color when not under UV light.


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi all,

I am planning a new build with custom loop as follows:

- CPU block: Heatkiller IV Pro Intel
- VGA block: Heatkiller IV GTX 1080 Ti Nikel + Acrylic
- Radiators: 2 x Hardware Labs Black Ice GTS 360
- Pump: Singularity Computers Protium D5 or EKWB D5 
- Pump Cover: Singularity Computers Acrylic
- Reservoir: Singularity Computers 200mm
- Fittings: Bitspower EML16 for PETG tube and rotatory fittings all of them black sparkle
- Tube: Bitspower None Chanfer PETG link tube 16mm OD
- Aquacomputer inline sensor temp


As fluid I am going to use the Mayhem X1 Clear concentrate + distilled water. I have serious concerns about all the posts I am reading on the net about Mayhems X1 and some deteriorations on the loop after months of use. Why this issues happen? 

To avoid that I am planning to follow these steps:

1. Flush only the radiators with boiled distilled water first and then with Mayhems Blitz Kit and leave the Part 1 fluid 12 hours inside the rads
2. Rinse the radiators with boiled distilled water
3. Mount all the loop
4. Flush, while leak testing, all the loop with Mayhems Blitz Kit part 2 and leave it there at max pump speed during the next 24 hours
5. Rinse with distilled water at least 2 times
6. Fill with 100 ml of Mayhems X1 clear concentrate and 900 ml of distilled water
7. Maintenance every 6 months (drain the loop, clean with Mayhems Blitz kit part 2 around 24 hours, rinse at leat 2 times with distilled water and fill again with 100 ml of Mayhems X1 Clear concentrated and 900ml of distilled water).

If I follow these steps, do you think I will have problems with my loop? I want to avoid garbage in blocks and on tubes and deposit walls.

And finally, does any bottle of distilled water (i.e. the bottles you can buy in supermarkets) serve or it has to be specific distilled water (i.e. Mayhems H2O Pure water)?

Apologies in advance if these are obvious questions but after the efforts that this involves (money + time), I don't want to make mistakes and maintain my parts and components as safe as I can.

Many thanks!


----------



## war4peace

Why distilled? Premixes are cheap enough.
No, I don't want to start another debate of which is better, just wondering about your particular reason.
Note: I wouldn't recommend any beginner to start off with distilled water.


----------



## MoDeNa

war4peace said:


> Why distilled? Premixes are cheap enough.
> No, I don't want to start another debate of which is better, just wondering about your particular reason.
> Note: I wouldn't recommend any beginner to start off with distilled water.


Hi! Thanks for your comment but I don't want to start debate either. I'm just asking if that choice works fine for my purpose. 

Any reason in particular. In the past I used premixes and want to change.


----------



## crafty615

MoDeNa said:


> Hi all,
> ...
> 
> If I follow these steps, do you think I will have problems with my loop? I want to avoid garbage in blocks and on tubes and deposit walls.
> 
> And finally, does any bottle of distilled water (i.e. the bottles you can buy in supermarkets) serve or it has to be specific distilled water (i.e. Mayhems H2O Pure water)?
> 
> Apologies in advance if these are obvious questions but after the efforts that this involves (money + time), I don't want to make mistakes and maintain my parts and components as safe as I can.
> 
> Many thanks!


If you do all that you will be fine. I used X1 UV Green concentrate for 3.5 years and swapped out the liquid once around the 2 year mark. I had some brown sediment in my rad but that was from not cleaning them out good enough when I got them. I since got the blitz pro kit and have used that and it's all good now. 

As for distilled. any distilled from the market will work.


----------



## war4peace

MoDeNa said:


> Any reason in particular. In the past I used premixes and want to change.


Fair enough, no quarrel with that 
Feel free to experiment.

i myself do have a test system filled with only distilled water, after sitting idle for a couple months and having been used for another couple months it works perfectly and there's no growth or anything weird in it.


----------



## MoDeNa

war4peace said:


> Fair enough, no quarrel with that
> Feel free to experiment.
> 
> i myself do have a test system filled with only distilled water, after sitting idle for a couple months and having been used for another couple months it works perfectly and there's no growth or anything weird in it.


I thought biocides and inhibitors had to be mixed without any kind of doubt with distilled water. Anyway, always is interesting to test new things.

Thanks for sharing your results


----------



## war4peace

MoDeNa said:


> I thought biocides and inhibitors had to be mixed without any kind of doubt with distilled water. Anyway, always is interesting to test new things.
> 
> Thanks for sharing your results


No worries man.
That test bench build was consciously neglected, it contains a Raijintek complete loop with CPU waterblock, pump/reservoir combo and radiator, was filled with distilled water immediately after being unpacked and mounted and the loop was never opened again. Ran for about two months testing the loop and other components, then I moved to a new house and didn't have time for it anymore. During the last month it sat in an annex, where temperature varies between 10 and 15 degrees Celsius, fully built but never powered (there's no power yet in the annex), I can see no growth, no color change, nothing out of the ordinary. I will drag a power cable to the annex tomorrow and power it up just to check it out, but I foresee no surprise.

Maybe if I open the loop and top up with more water (the reservoir is only 60% full) i might need to use some biocide but then again, maybe I should just top up and see what happens. No problem if there's growth, I have more than enough parts to replace it. Yes, I will do just that.


----------



## Benjiw

war4peace said:


> Why distilled? Premixes are cheap enough.
> No, I don't want to start another debate of which is better, just wondering about your particular reason.
> Note: I wouldn't recommend any beginner to start off with distilled water.


Distilled is pretty much the base of any premix, and if pre mixes are cheap enough, mind if I send you the bill for my next order? No? Didn't think so. Telling anyone not to use distilled or de-ionized water is pretty daft.

On a side note, I'm here to ask why my mayhems red dye in de-ionized water is turning purple especially after using the blitz kit as per instructions to the last letter. PH is bang on, tubing new, rads clean, all blocks cleaned etc etc.


----------



## Penryn

Lets stay on topic and away from poking others directly.

Thanks!


----------



## Benjiw

I've noticed i still have some flecks of blitz part 2 in my loop, i've drained and filled the loop several times, has anyone else this issue? my coolant also went from red to purple, i followed the directions on the instructions to the letter, not sure if i should email mick or not to ask for help on the subject, wish he was still in here.... would make life easier but oh well...


----------



## 414347

Benjiw said:


> I've noticed i still have some flecks of blitz part 2 in my loop, i've drained and filled the loop several times, has anyone else this issue? my coolant also went from red to purple, i followed the directions on the instructions to the letter, not sure if i should email mick or not to ask for help on the subject, wish he was still in here.... would make life easier but oh well...


Blitz#2 is absolutely superb cleaner but you need to literally flash it at least 6-8 times (15 min each time) I know it’s more than info tells you to but that's the only way is to ensure no remaining blitz is in the system. I use Blitz #2 annually and I haven't took my huge dual loop system in about 5 years now I use Distilled and I have been using Mayhems extreme for the past 3 years and just year ago I started using Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ and my system is absolutely ***** and spen all I do is use Blitz# 2 annually and change Distilled every 8-10 months. Why I'm saying this is because I know what it takes to remove all Blitz #2 from the system but is absolutely miracle cleaner.


----------



## MoDeNa

I received yesterday my Mayhems Blitz kit and I have some doubts I want to share with you:

1. The Part 1 bottle says in caps and red that the product should not be more than 6 hours inside the radiator but the same bottle, some lines above, as well as the paper instructions , both say that it has to be between 6-12 hours. How much time should the part 1 be working inside the radiators? 

2. The guy in the Mayhems Blitz video instructions uses plastic stop fittings to do the process to clean the radiators with Part1. I did not find that kind of stop fittings. I have the EKWB nickel fittings. Is something wrong if I use them? 

Many thanks in advance


EDIT: Regarding point 2 I've just found EKWB Plexi fittings to clean the radiators. I will use them


----------



## Deedaz

MoDeNa said:


> I received yesterday my Mayhems Blitz kit and I have some doubts I want to share with you:
> 
> 1. The Part 1 bottle says in caps and red that the product should not be more than 6 hours inside the radiator but the same bottle, some lines above, as well as the paper instructions , both say that it has to be between 6-12 hours. How much time should the part 1 be working inside the radiators?
> 
> 2. The guy in the Mayhems Blitz video instructions uses plastic stop fittings to do the process to clean the radiators with Part1. I did not find that kind of stop fittings. I have the EKWB nickel fittings. Is something wrong if I use them?
> 
> Many thanks in advance
> 
> 
> EDIT: Regarding point 2 I've just found EKWB Plexi fittings to clean the radiators. I will use them


If it's a new rad I would go closer to the 6 hour mark, longer if its used. I have a ton of extra EK stop fittings I use just for blitzing. The nickel finish comes off of them but that's the only thing I use them for.


----------



## ryan92084

MoDeNa said:


> I received yesterday my Mayhems Blitz kit and I have some doubts I want to share with you:
> 
> 1. The Part 1 bottle says in caps and red that the product should not be more than 6 hours inside the radiator but the same bottle, some lines above, as well as the paper instructions , both say that it has to be between 6-12 hours. How much time should the part 1 be working inside the radiators?
> 
> 2. The guy in the Mayhems Blitz video instructions uses plastic stop fittings to do the process to clean the radiators with Part1. I did not find that kind of stop fittings. I have the EKWB nickel fittings. Is something wrong if I use them?
> 
> Many thanks in advance
> 
> 
> EDIT: Regarding point 2 I've just found EKWB Plexi fittings to clean the radiators. I will use them


Generally the website has the most up to date/correct instructions https://www.mayhems.net/collections/cleaning/products/mayhems-blitz-kit

I wouldn't use any plated fittings with part 1.


----------



## MoDeNa

It is confusing because on the web site indicates that the mix ratio is 250ml of Part1 with 750 ml of distilled water. The paper instructions and bottle both indicate a mix ratio of 50 ml of Part 1 with 950ml of distilled water. It is a huge difference. Some of those two has to be clearly wrong.

And it is even more confusing when the Part1 bottle is 100ml in total.

I will go with 50ml of part1 and 950ml of distilled water.

In my opinion it is not serious to find this kind of contradictions for the same product. 

Thanks for the answers.


----------



## catbuster

Always use instructions u see on label.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Product replacement / recall.

Mayhems Aurora Silver Concentrate 250ml - Used by 24/10/21,Used by 24/10/2020. The bottles were X1 clear and Not Aurora Silver, they have been sticker'd up incorrectly. If you have these please contact us directly [email protected] clearly showing a photo of the bottle date and you invoice and we will re ship you new versions free of charge. No need to send the old bottles back to us, you can keep them as they are X1 clear concentrate.

Only this date above has the issue.


----------



## Vlada011

Myahem saved me, really.
Can you imagine when you enter first time in watercooling world and met tubes very hard to bend, not clear, need to be put in really hot water to be installed on fitting and you ask Is it something wrong with me? Maybe this is not for me? And than you decide to order different tubes Mayhem Ultra Clear and you feel completely different, soft, easy for installation, clear, and figure out how that's easy only some ******* make everything harder.
Because of that I stay on old safe side Mayhem Ultra Clear and old X1 Coolant.


How much is important to use Blitz kit for Black Ice Nemesis radaitors.
Once someone write how they need to be clean more than others, later I hear that was for older series, not Black Ice Nemesis?
Could they be cleaned without Blitz, with destiled water only?
Anyway I plan to set two Bitspower filters on block and than fittings only I afraid how they influence on flow.


----------



## Mayhem

Hi Vlada011

All the black ice rads we have tested (and we may have been unlucky, i do not know (p.s there was a nemesis in them)!), we have had to use the blitz part one on them. How ever i have been informed by quite a few uses that the latest rads by them are clean but i still recommend a part 1 clean! Unless some one can prove any diffrent. The only rads i would say that do not need cleaning are the new (here i cringe) copper Thermaltake rads. How ever over time they will tarnish and probably will need a slight clean.


----------



## Vlada011

You recommend Blitz kit for Black Ice Nemesis GTX.
Even better if Koolance filter is installed on CPU block and pump Inlet.

I'm curious, is it Blitz kit capable to clean radiator from Mayhem UV Red Coolant if someone want to use Mayhem Clear coolant later.


----------



## Mayhem

I say i would use the blitz kit on them but that mho.

Blitz kit part 2 is powerful and if used with warm water its even better. Be warned though it cannot stop dye staining and red / pink is the worst for this.


----------



## Vlada011

I'm now not sure what to do, I could sell easy Mayhem X1 UV Red here in my country.
Is it better maybe to order Clear. I wished to have something different, at least Red Color, but not blood red.
But if that could be problem to wash later... I'm not sure.

Second bad thing with Mayhem is because no 11/8 or 10/8 Ultra Clear Tubes.
I saw beautiful and cheap Bitspower fittings, 10 pieaces only 44 euro, that's extremely cheap for their fittings.
But I'm not happy to experiment with other tubes, Tygon, Masterkleer and no name tubes.


----------



## Mayhem

If you ask me a question you will get an honest answer even it costs me a sale. When i'm here! (which is not often), I'm here to support you to the best of my ability not sell you some thing.


----------



## 414347

Mayhem said:


> If you ask me a question you will get an honest answer even it costs me a sale. When i'm here! (which is not often), I'm here to support you to the best of my ability not sell you some thing.


That's Mick....you got to love him, unless you don't like honesty  I just purchased ton of Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ from PPC, this product truly rocks


----------



## ckoons1

Hi guys I just bought my 3rd blitz kit and part 1 in this box is 100 ml bottle instead of a 250ml bottle like the first two I bought a while back. Instructions say to add 50 ml instead 250ml to the mix before putting into the radiator. Any ideas why one kit comes with a 100 ml bottle and the prior came with 250ml? 
Different formula? A mistake perhaps ?
???


----------



## Mayhem

You Got old stock. The formula / bottles change so you must check the instructions inside and follow them. We are always improving the products we work on.


----------



## ckoons1

Will the old stock still get the job done as well?

Thank you


----------



## Mayhem

Yes


----------



## ckoons1

thank you


----------



## crafty615

crafty615 said:


> Was there a change in the UV green formula? My first bottle from ~3 years ago was an dark green in normal light and a nice bright glowing lighter green under UV. My latest bottle from earlier this year was yellow under normal light but maintained the same bright glowing lighter green under UV. I had to resort to mixing what I had left of my old UV green concentrate into the new to maintain the green color when not under UV light.


Any idea what the current iteration of UV Green looks like? I loved the original I had that was like an emerald green in daylight and bright UV green color under UV lights. Don't want to end up buying some and it being that yellow color in daylight.


----------



## Bratislav

Mayhem said:


> Be warned though it cannot stop dye staining and red / pink is the worst for this.


What about X1 Clear + non stain Pink/Red dye or Pastel Ice White + non stain Pink/Red dye?


----------



## Leonko

Bratislav said:


> What about X1 Clear + non stain Pink/Red dye or Pastel Ice White + non stain Pink/Red dye?


i remember that Mayhem said to me, that normal Red coolant stains tubes, blocks etc much less than nonstain


----------



## broodro0ster

Is there anyone that has experience with pastel blue? I’d like to switch to hardline tubing and fill my loop with pastel blue, but I want a reliable colour.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Blue is normally very reliable and not as pH sensitive compared to the warmer colors (Red & yellow). I would just make sure to flush properly and test the pH prior to filling


----------



## broodro0ster

DarthBaggins said:


> Blue is normally very reliable and not as pH sensitive compared to the warmer colors (Red & yellow). I would just make sure to flush properly and test the pH prior to filling


Thanks! Since I need to rebuild everything with hardline, I will take all the components out and clean them first with the blitz kit.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Solutions Ltd has sent out to over 40 testers a new fluid that literally is a game changer (i hope) and will shake the foundations of the liquid cooling scene if all goes well. This new product is based on a few years of research all done in house over at Mayhems Solutions Ltd and could spawn a raft of new product lines. Consider this a teaser. All the testers has been told "See if you can destroy it!" and give feed back. We have asked a few "not to clean there systems and just run it", some have been asked just to play, others been asked to do diffrent things.

We await there feed back.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I need something to clean out all of ek kryocrap coolant maybe this new concentrate is it lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

cant wait to see more on the new fluids


----------



## Barefooter

Looking forward to the results on the new fluids. Any idea of a rough time frame when we might see the results?


----------



## broodro0ster

Mayhem said:


> Mayhems Solutions Ltd has sent out to over 40 testers a new fluid that literally is a game changer (i hope) and will shake the foundations of the liquid cooling scene if all goes well. This new product is based on a few years of research all done in house over at Mayhems Solutions Ltd and could spawn a raft of new product lines. Consider this a teaser. All the testers has been told "See if you can destroy it!" and give feed back. We have asked a few "not to clean there systems and just run it", some have been asked just to play, others been asked to do diffrent things.
> 
> We await there feed back.


Cool! I'm really looking forward to this.
Just another question about the Pastel concentrate. Can you mix this with demineralised water? Or does it need to be distilled? It's very hard to fine distilled over here, but demineralised water is sold in every supermarket.


----------



## Mayhem

Release date will depending on feed back from testers. How ever if all goes well maybe Jan / Feb next year. if not then may take a little longer.

We have to get though FDA / and EU testing and REACH compliance first.

Docs have to be written up.


----------



## 414347

Mayhem said:


> Mayhems Solutions Ltd has sent out to over 40 testers a new fluid that literally is a game changer (i hope) and will shake the foundations of the liquid cooling scene if all goes well. This new product is based on a few years of research all done in house over at Mayhems Solutions Ltd and could spawn a raft of new product lines. Consider this a teaser. All the testers has been told "See if you can destroy it!" and give feed back. We have asked a few "not to clean there systems and just run it", some have been asked just to play, others been asked to do diffrent things.
> 
> We await there feed back.


More details Mick, give some idea what is this fluid about... come on man now!!!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

is it based off of the 2D fluid you were working with a while back (year or so ago)?


----------



## Mayhem

All will be reviled with time.

Spoiler Alert -

* Wider PH range then ever before.
* Highly concentrated (i relay mean highly not just a little).
* Can be dyed (Due to the strength of this product you may require a little more dye than normal) ......
* Very very cheap to ship and will cut you cost of shipping by quite a lot.
* Can be used with Petg Tubing

Think that will do for now, i'm quite excited by this *new* to the market product.


----------



## DarthBaggins

sounds like a fluid I want, lol :thumb:


----------



## DarthBaggins

Does someone still have the Coolant tubing compatibility chart, I lost my copy of it


----------



## broodro0ster

Mayhem said:


> All will be reviled with time.
> 
> Spoiler Alert -
> 
> * Wider PH range then ever before.
> * Highly concentrated (i relay mean highly not just a little).
> * Can be dyed (Due to the strength of this product you may require a little more dye than normal) ......
> * Very very cheap to ship and will cut you cost of shipping by quite a lot.
> * Can be used with Petg Tubing
> 
> Think that will do for now, i'm quite excited by this *new* to the market product.


Hi Mick,

Just a question about the Pastel concentrate (250ml version). Can you mix this with demineralised water? Or does it need to be distilled? It's very hard to fine distilled over here, but demineralised water is sold in every supermarket.


----------



## Mayhem

broodro0ster said:


> Hi Mick,
> 
> Just a question about the Pastel concentrate (250ml version). Can you mix this with demineralised water? Or does it need to be distilled? It's very hard to fine distilled over here, but demineralised water is sold in every supermarket.


demineralised will do fine, doesn't have to be distilled as long as its below 0.4ppm your good to go.


----------



## Barefooter

DarthBaggins said:


> Does someone still have the Coolant tubing compatibility chart, I lost my copy of it


It's sad that the "Search this Thread" feature is pretty much worthless these days 

I found it for you though.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah that's why I asked, lol. Also needed it so I can make sure I stay w/in compatibility for my use of tubing :thumb:


----------



## Mayhem

I can confirm we have created a new Version of XT-1 with a Blocker for the Petg that fixes the issues with long term use of Petg. Its been under test in one of our system running at +30c constant for the last 6 to 8 Months (for got to right start date on system) and no issues have been found. Under accelerated testing again no issues have been found. This will probably get rolled out next year.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Awesome, I was double checking for my Light Gray Pastel since I have both PETG and Acrylic tubing I can use other than my ZMT. :thumb:


----------



## 414347

No doubt... Mayhems is the King of the heels in WC liquid industry


----------



## Vlada011

These two bottles of X1 Clear coolant are different batches and package of same coolant.
Second is newer or not.


Is it completely clear... like Aqua Computer.


----------



## Mayhem

X1 clear is a nightmare to make. Because it uses reconstituted products one moment it can look Clear, next it can look straw yellow and bad batches have known to go dark yellow. We keep an eye on it before using and if it goes the opposite end of good we bin it before using. There is no way to say which way it goes. But this were my eye and expertise now comes into play (if you can call it that) and i can normally tell when things need changing. How ever some times i do get it wrong.


----------



## captminer

hi guys, newbie here as a registered user but have been lurking around for years & probably i have forgotten my old username & password hence the new account.

i have my new desk pc build in progress (pic below) & i'm really keen on getting some mayhems liquid.

may i know what's the best to use for the best "worry free" liquid ? 

have seen many had too many issues & taking apart the entire system will be a nightmare.

i'm looking at X1 pre-mixed.

@Mayhem, do you ship overseas ? i will be buying some extras & save on shipping.


----------



## 414347

captminer said:


> hi guys, newbie here as a registered user but have been lurking around for years & probably i have forgotten my old username & password hence the new account.
> 
> i have my new desk pc build in progress (pic below) & i'm really keen on getting some mayhems liquid.
> 
> may i know what's the best to use for the best "worry free" liquid ?
> 
> have seen many had too many issues & taking apart the entire system will be a nightmare.
> 
> i'm looking at X1 pre-mixed.
> 
> @Mayhem, do you ship overseas ? i will be buying some extras & save on shipping.


If you want the best liquid that will you last 8-12 months without worry about either clogging or messing your system in any negative way I would strongly suggest using Distilled or DI with Inhibitor & Biocide+ these 2 products combine together are phenomenal.

I've been using it for over a year now (I have been long time Biocide Extreme user before that) and trust when I tell you, its the best thing ever made and 2 small bottles will last you 2-3 years easy. 

If you want to keep all your gear absolutely clean and never worry about dissembling single part use that and use Blitz #2 every year or so ( you don't have to) but it does help clean accumulation of slime or crap you might have in line, its magic.


----------



## Vlada011

Answer of Mayhem about X1 Clear worry me.
I plan to buy one bottle but now I'm not sure...
Maybe Aqua Computer Clear???

How many radiators you could clean with 1 Blitz Kit Mayhem.


----------



## Mayhem

@Vlada011 Why is a night mare, We sell it and have sold it now for over 10 years ? no issues, works as its supposed to and never had any complaints about it. Its does what it say on the tin. If you want a car salesmen you come to the wrong company, we only tell the truth here and sell working products.


----------



## Zammin

Vlada011 said:


> Answer of Mayhem about X1 Clear worry me.
> I plan to buy one bottle but now I'm not sure...
> Maybe Aqua Computer Clear???
> 
> How many radiators you could clean with 1 Blitz Kit Mayhem.


I'm not sure what there is to worry about with X1. To my knowledge clear (including transparent colored coolants) are usually the safest type. If you're worried about the clarity of it, I can say that other brands of clear coolant sometimes aren't as clear as water (EK Cryofuel has a slight yellow tinge to it) but once it's in the system you'd be hard pressed to really notice it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Zammin said:


> I'm not sure what there is to worry about with X1. To my knowledge clear (including transparent colored coolants) are usually the safest type. If you're worried about the clarity of it, I can say that other brands of clear coolant sometimes aren't as clear as water (EK Cryofuel has a slight yellow tinge to it) but once it's in the system you'd be hard pressed to really notice it.


Yeah Cryofuel does have that tinge until it's put into a loop, X1 clear is the same way sometimes and last as long if not longer. I know I ran my X1 Blood red for 2 years with zero issues (until the cheap Bitspower mono block started flaking and exposed aluminum/steel into the loop)


----------



## captminer

@Mayhem

i got this during checkout "There are no shipping methods available for your cart or destination"

do you guys ship internationally ?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know they ship to the US, as that's how I got my 240 Rad, 2L of Pastel L.Gray, and Biocide Extreme


----------



## broodro0ster

I'm about to order some Mayhems Pastel Blue premix and I'm going to rebuild my loop with hardline (PETG) tubing. Currently running EK Cryofuel clear and ZMT tubing.
I'm going to open up my blocks and clean them, blitz part 1 my radiators and then blitz part 2 the complete loop.

Is there anything else I should do to prepare my loop? I want to make sure to do it right so I don't run into troubles with gunk buildup in my blocks.


----------



## Mayhem

captminer said:


> @Mayhem
> 
> i got this during checkout "There are no shipping methods available for your cart or destination"
> 
> do you guys ship internationally ?


It depends on were you live in the world, due to fraud in certain countries. We have stopped shipping to thouse countries with high fraud rates. You will need to use a re sellers who can off set this fraud, we are to small to be able to off set it.


----------



## captminer

Mayhem said:


> It depends on were you live in the world, due to fraud in certain countries. We have stopped shipping to thouse countries with high fraud rates. You will need to use a re sellers who can off set this fraud, we are to small to be able to off set it.


sent you a pm


----------



## Mayhem

captminer said:


> sent you a pm


responded


----------



## crafty615

@Mayhem Do you know the current state of X1 UV Green? I have gotten it a few times and the first time was around 4 years ago and it was a nice emerald green in daylight and a bright uv green under uv light. The other times I've bought it, last being around a year and a half ago, it was a clear yellow during daylight. Do you know if it is still yellow or is it the emerald green? Just wondering because I plan on doing a new build in the future that requires a liquid that is always green and I love UV coolants to need it to be UV reactive.

Edit: Sorry for asking so many times. Just can't find anywhere with updated pictures of the coolant. Everywhere has the same pictures of it as when I bought it 4 years ago and most of them do not show what it looks like in both normal light and under UV light.


----------



## Mayhem

The issue with X1 is the base colour changes from a clear to a sometimes to a straw yellow colour this effects the over all colour of green from a Nice bright UV green to a darker green (diffcult to tell when and why it does this but we think its to do with heat in storage + UV C). 

How ever we are working on a new ultra clear range of coolants what will not be able to go sub zero but will be the same colour all the time. The new coolant has been on test now for over 2 years and people have allready been using the base of it in Mayhems Biocide + and Mayhems Inhibitor +. Release will be in 2019 once we get past FDA and REACH compliance. Also im just refining it a little more. It will contain No Glycols, no vegetable extract or any thing like that so will not change colour while being stored.. 

Were also releasing a new Nano product that again is a totally new product that will be coming out around 1st 1/4 of 2019. again this is a hyper strong coolant that has had over 3 years of R&D put into it, using no glycols or Veg extract and is a bit of a ground braking product.

So ive listened to every ones concerns and fully understand the issues some of you get. How ever it has taken time and testing to resolve these issues and the new products we will release will change every thing. It has taken longer than expected though due to time constants (if i was locked in a room on my own and have gotten there a lot faster).

2019 you will see the market change .............. and im going to change it.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Is pastel white available anywhere? I can't seem to find it in stock in the US.


----------



## Mayhem

SOCOM_HERO said:


> Is pastel white available anywhere? I can't seem to find it in stock in the US.


PPC or MOD MY MODS

A new sea shipment is on its way to USA next week and Air ship just went out. I know mod my mods just landed this week and PPC should have there soon or they may have it.

Black Friday wiped us out and were re manufacturing right now, our place is nearly empty due to sales of the products.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Or you could order straight from Mick himself  lol :cheers:


----------



## crafty615

Mayhem said:


> The issue with X1 is the base colour changes from a clear to a sometimes to a straw yellow colour this effects the over all colour of green from a Nice bright UV green to a darker green (diffcult to tell when and why it does this but we think its to do with heat in storage + UV C).
> 
> How ever we are working on a new ultra clear range of coolants what will not be able to go sub zero but will be the same colour all the time. The new coolant has been on test now for over 2 years and people have allready been using the base of it in Mayhems Biocide + and Mayhems Inhibitor +. Release will be in 2019 once we get past FDA and REACH compliance. Also im just refining it a little more. It will contain No Glycols, no vegetable extract or any thing like that so will not change colour while being stored..
> 
> Were also releasing a new Nano product that again is a totally new product that will be coming out around 1st 1/4 of 2019. again this is a hyper strong coolant that has had over 3 years of R&D put into it, using no glycols or Veg extract and is a bit of a ground braking product.
> 
> So ive listened to every ones concerns and fully understand the issues some of you get. How ever it has taken time and testing to resolve these issues and the new products we will release will change every thing. It has taken longer than expected though due to time constants (if i was locked in a room on my own and have gotten there a lot faster).
> 
> 2019 you will see the market change .............. and im going to change it.


Awesome. This is exactly what I wanted to hear. I will be patiently waiting to start my new build until this new product comes. Can't wait!


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Mayhem said:


> PPC or MOD MY MODS
> 
> A new sea shipment is on its way to USA next week and Air ship just went out. I know mod my mods just landed this week and PPC should have there soon or they may have it.
> 
> Black Friday wiped us out and were re manufacturing right now, our place is nearly empty due to sales of the products.


That's not a bad thing...

I'll keep checking. I'm coming up on one year of it in a CPU loop, seems very stable, but I'm overly cautious with coolant after my last loop had leaching (not using your stuff).


----------



## Mayhem

SOCOM_HERO said:


> That's not a bad thing...
> 
> I'll keep checking. I'm coming up on one year of it in a CPU loop, seems very stable, but I'm overly cautious with coolant after my last loop had leaching (not using your stuff).


What Coolant ?

If pastel you can run for 3 years +. 

Take the pastel out, run it though a coffee filter, flush the system with DI water, re fill with coolant. (no need to re buy pastel if its running well enough in the system.)

X1 and XT1 are the only once that need changing yearly.


----------



## crafty615

Mayhem said:


> What Coolant ?
> 
> If pastel you can run for 3 years +.
> 
> Take the pastel out, run it though a coffee filter, flush the system with DI water, re fill with coolant. (no need to re buy pastel if its running well enough in the system.)
> 
> X1 and XT1 are the only once that need changing yearly.


My first batch of X1 lasted me over 2 years until some brown sediment started forming (though I think it was from the radiator since I hadn't used anything to clean them when I first built). I would take the coolant out of the loop after a year then flush and put it back in.


----------



## DarthBaggins

the 3 year run time is why I want to switch out from the Cryofuel Clear I'm running right now, and to get the other half off my back on why i still have it lol


----------



## gotic

Hi Guys,

I am new here. 

I have been a PC enthusiast since I am a kid.

Now, I wanna step up my game and do some serious water cooling hard tubing. 

I was looking at Primochill Vue for few days but after all the negative feedback I decided to let it go and go with Mayhem Pastel.

The question is if I can use Mayhem Pastel with Bitspower PETG tube.
The website from where I purchase (canada) says the following:

"*Attention*: Glycol based coolants are not recommended for PETG type of plastic, such as DazMode Protector, Feser One, Nanoxia CF1, Koolance, EK EVO, Mayhems XT. Mayhems Pastel, EK Pastel or Ice Dragon nano-liquids are OK for PETG tube projects, but if you wish to use non-recommended coolants, you’d betetr switch to Acrylic tubing."

I am kinda confused.

In addition, they don't sell the Mayhem Pastel yellow normal one but another called Mayhems Pastel – Sunset Yellow Concentrate. I am wondering if it is the same formula as the Pastel Yellow currently sold in Mayhem website (ignore color difference)


I have already bought all the parts except fittings/tube.

This is what I got so far for water cooling

EK-Supremacy EVO RGB - Nickel
EK-CoolStream PE 360
EK-FC GeForce GTX FE RGB - Nickel
Mayhems Blitz Kit
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM with EK-RES X3 - TUBE 250 & EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP Upgrade

I am thinking to go Bitspower fittings.


----------



## broodro0ster

gotic said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I am new here.
> 
> I have been a PC enthusiast since I am a kid.
> 
> Now, I wanna step up my game and do some serious water cooling hard tubing.
> 
> I was looking at Primochill Vue for few days but after all the negative feedback I decided to let it go and go with Mayhem Pastel.
> 
> The question is if I can use Mayhem Pastel with Bitspower PETG tube.
> The website from where I purchase (canada) says the following:
> 
> "*Attention*: Glycol based coolants are not recommended for PETG type of plastic, such as DazMode Protector, Feser One, Nanoxia CF1, Koolance, EK EVO, Mayhems XT. Mayhems Pastel, EK Pastel or Ice Dragon nano-liquids are OK for PETG tube projects, but if you wish to use non-recommended coolants, you’d betetr switch to Acrylic tubing."
> 
> I am kinda confused.
> 
> In addition, they don't sell the Mayhem Pastel yellow normal one but another called Mayhems Pastel – Sunset Yellow Concentrate. I am wondering if it is the same formula as the Pastel Yellow currently sold in Mayhem website (ignore color difference)
> 
> 
> I have already bought all the parts except fittings/tube.
> 
> This is what I got so far for water cooling
> 
> EK-Supremacy EVO RGB - Nickel
> EK-CoolStream PE 360
> EK-FC GeForce GTX FE RGB - Nickel
> Mayhems Blitz Kit
> EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM with EK-RES X3 - TUBE 250 & EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP Upgrade
> 
> I am thinking to go Bitspower fittings.


Only pastel Extreme (100ml concentrate) isn't compatible with PETG tubing. The normal pastel bottles (250ml concentrate or 1000ml premix) is fine with PETG.


----------



## Leonko

Mayhem said:


> * Can be dyed (Due to the strength of this product you may require a little more dye than normal) ......


this is what i wanted to ak when you posted a teaser image. I know you had some difficulties to make it dye. Good to know it is solved 

edit : 
now im reading this.


Mayhem said:


> Were also releasing a new Nano product that again is a totally new product


so that teased coolant is not that nano fluid, but completely different, new?


----------



## gotic

Thanks for the help!

I will open a new thread soon showing my PC water cooling progress


----------



## Andrew LB

broodro0ster said:


> Only pastel Extreme (100ml concentrate) isn't compatible with PETG tubing. The normal pastel bottles (250ml concentrate or 1000ml premix) is fine with PETG.


----------



## broodro0ster

Andrew LB said:


>


I was only talking about the pastel variants since the question was only about the pastel line up.
But thanks for posting the table so it's clear for anyone


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Mayhem said:


> What Coolant ?
> 
> If pastel you can run for 3 years +.
> 
> Take the pastel out, run it though a coffee filter, flush the system with DI water, re fill with coolant. (no need to re buy pastel if its running well enough in the system.)
> 
> X1 and XT1 are the only once that need changing yearly.


It is your pastel white 1000ml. Perhaps I'll give it a drain and refill with DI to flush, and refill with the same if I cannot find new stock before xmas when I have the time off to do this job.


----------



## SHNS0

Hi, is there a page, post or FAQ that has a good explanation of what to do to keep Pastel in good conditions long term?

I used it once last year for a customer but it hasn't been a great experience, it started sedimenting like crazy after just a couple days of not using the PC, with sediments going all arount the visible o-rings and making everything look quite bad and dirty.

Seeing how Mayhems claims 3 years of usage, and a good amount of people had great experiences with it, I'd like to figure out if I did something wrong and how to prevent it.


----------



## Mayhem

For those interested on our Facebook group we have posted the new 15ml coolant we have been working on.

I cannot direct link in but all info will be released on our group from now on. Keeps it nice and easy to control  

SHNS0 you need to post more info e.g how was the system cleaned and what were the specs of the cooling system, with out this you'll be running around in circles. If you need direct help hit up our direct support on our site.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mayhem said:


> For those interested on our Facebook group we have posted the new 15ml coolant we have been working on.
> 
> I cannot direct link in but all info will be released on our group from now on. Keeps it nice and easy to control
> 
> SHNS0 you need to post more info e.g how was the system cleaned and what were the specs of the cooling system, with out this you'll be running around in circles. If you need direct help hit up our direct support on our site.


wow, I want some now lol (looked at the post on FB)


----------



## Mayhem

Time for the market to change. Welcome to next gen.


----------



## jvillaveces

DarthBaggins said:


> wow, I want some now lol (looked at the post on FB)



The last post I see on fb is about Black Friday. Is there another page/group I should be looking at?


----------



## Jspinks020

Some red dye. but nope same stuff old water and a little Glychol.


----------



## Leonko

https://www.overclock.net/forum/27746746-post16069.html
can you answer this please?


----------



## Mayhem

The There all new products weve been working on.

The 2D nano coolant is pictured above. Were also working on a Nano Dot version that is a clear nano dot that acts like Pastel in the sense it blocks UV light totally and doesn't allow any thing to grow, Again using no glycols or any thing like that and will have a life span of more than a good few years.

Since ive taken on new staff i now have more time to dev and i have also ordered in more equipment so that i can get down and dirty more. Its not a cheap hobby thats all i can say lol.


----------



## DaLiu

I am new to watercooling, I am trying to read as much as possible before I am starting with my first loop, I found out that distilled water + biocide + inhibitor should be the best thing for your loop, anyway, I am wondering if I buy Biocide + and Inhibitor +, how much of them I need to use for ... let's say 2 liters of distilled water, according to the instruction you can make 30 liters of liquid from the 15ml of Inhibitor+ and Biocide+, I want to make only 2 liters, how do I measure how much Biocide and Inhibitor I am supposed to add?


----------



## broodro0ster

DaLiu said:


> I am new to watercooling, I am trying to read as much as possible before I am starting with my first loop, I found out that distilled water + biocide + inhibitor should be the best thing for your loop, anyway, I am wondering if I buy Biocide + and Inhibitor +, how much of them I need to use for ... let's say 2 liters of distilled water, according to the instruction you can make 30 liters of liquid from the 15ml of Inhibitor+ and Biocide+, I want to make only 2 liters, how do I measure how much Biocide and Inhibitor I am supposed to add?


0.5ml per liter. That's about 1-2 drops per liter.


----------



## DaLiu

broodro0ster said:


> 0.5ml per liter. That's about 1-2 drops per liter.


1-2 drops for Biocide and 1-2 drops for Inhibitor in a 1 liter of water, right?


----------



## broodro0ster

DaLiu said:


> 1-2 drops for Biocide and 1-2 drops for Inhibitor in a 1 liter of water, right?




Correct! And you can add a drop of each product per litre every 2-3 months to keep it active for a very long time.


----------



## Kokin

SHNS0 said:


> Hi, is there a page, post or FAQ that has a good explanation of what to do to keep Pastel in good conditions long term?
> 
> I used it once last year for a customer but it hasn't been a great experience, it started sedimenting like crazy after just a couple days of not using the PC, with sediments going all arount the visible o-rings and making everything look quite bad and dirty.
> 
> Seeing how Mayhems claims 3 years of usage, and a good amount of people had great experiences with it, I'd like to figure out if I did something wrong and how to prevent it.


I used Pastel Ice White (250ml concentrate) with Mayhem's Blue dye for 3+ years before going back to Ice White earlier this year. After 3 years, the o-rings did have this white transparent film that could be rubbed off, but I only found that on the o-rings while the blocks' fin channels stayed clean. The coolant nano particles do settle after a few days of no usage, but even after a 2+ week vacation to Japan, the coolant went back to normal and none of my blocks or tubing had any clogging.

The best thing to do is to make sure the loop is prepped and cleaned prior to using Pastel. Flush all components including tubing with hot tap water and flush with distilled water 5-10 times. After that, I used Primochill sysprep and did a few more rounds of distilled water flushing, although you can also use Mayhem's Blitz.


----------



## 414347

broodro0ster said:


> 0.5ml per liter. That's about 1-2 drops per litre.



4 drops = 0.5ml and that is a minimum depending on your system and its condition. If you let your GPU(s) and CPU get really hot by pushing it to its MAX limits use 8 drops per 1L of each.

What I do is I use 6 drops per 1L of each Biocide and Inhibitor+ this way you have an excellent protection and its on the borderline of not being to much...Yet enough to keep your components very happy, these 2 products are amazing


----------



## 414347

broodro0ster said:


> Correct! And you can add a drop of each product per litre every 2-3 months to keep it active for a very long time.


You also don't need to add anything for about 12 months, that's the beauty of Biocide & Inhibitor+. This product is much stronger it does not break down or crystallize like Biocide Extreme that’s why it was recommend to change water every 6-12 months but you had to keep adding drop or two every 1-3 months to make sure it keeps working. Biocide Extreme is great I used it for 3 years but I had only copper and I would change water every 8-10 months. 

With these 2 new products you can add few drops of each after 12 months and it will work great I’m sure but tbh. I would advice to just replace water every 12 months to ensure you have always clean system with fresh protection.


----------



## ckoons1

i have already cleaned my loop with mayhems blitz 1 for the rads and mayhems blitz 2 for entire system then i got a great deal on a third radiator and am wanting to know if i can use blitz 2 after blitz one on the new radiator only
as i just got the bubbles out of my loop and really don´t want to have to blitz 2 the entire system again. can i just put blitz 2 in the radiator and shake the rad many multiple times?

thank you


----------



## 414347

ckoons1 said:


> i have already cleaned my loop with mayhems blitz 1 for the rads and mayhems blitz 2 for entire system then i got a great deal on a third radiator and am wanting to know if i can use blitz 2 after blitz one on the new radiator only
> as i just got the bubbles out of my loop and really don´t want to have to blitz 2 the entire system again. can i just put blitz 2 in the radiator and shake the rad many multiple times?
> 
> thank you


I don't see any problem doing it, just rinse several times with top water than do the same after using Blitz 2 but this time try to use distilled water to rinse and you should be good to go


----------



## ckoons1

how many times with the distilled water blitz 2 combo do you think would be sufficient?

perhaps just make a batch and use the whole thing?

thank you


----------



## 414347

ckoons1 said:


> how many times with the distilled water blitz 2 combo do you think would be sufficient?
> 
> perhaps just make a batch and use the whole thing?
> 
> thank you


Its entirely up to U. Blitz is cheep to get anyways, but if you on budget just do more/less ratio of any of them of small amount and mix with Distilled water accordingly, if you slightly off with mixing its no big deal.


----------



## ckoons1

THANK YOU


----------



## ckoons1

well went ahead and rinsed it out 6 x with hot tap water then 4 times using a liter of blitz 2/distilled water combo then rinsed it out with 3 liters of distilled water. did the ph test and got rating of 7 so I assume i should be good to go


----------



## 414347

ckoons1 said:


> well went ahead and rinsed it out 6 x with hot tap water then 4 times using a liter of blitz 2/distilled water combo then rinsed it out with 3 liters of distilled water. did the ph test and got rating of 7 so I assume i should be good to go


7 its perfect. 

Good luck and enjoy U system


----------



## ckoons1

Thank you very much. Greatly appreciate you.


----------



## svntwoo

Mayhems X1 blood red? good stuff? how long does it last before needing to be changed in a typical dual 360 rad setup?


----------



## Barefooter

svntwoo said:


> Mayhems X1 blood red? good stuff? how long does it last before needing to be changed in a typical dual 360 rad setup?


The X1 blood red is a good coolant! I've ran it for over a year before changing it out. It was still in great shape and could have kept using it, but I was making a hardware change anyway. 

Just be sure to clean your system and radiators really good first :thumb:


----------



## gotic

I have a water softener at home + an OSMO filter in the kitchen which is fed from the central water softener. My water hardness at home is almost zero.

Could I use that water instead of Distilled water to mix in too mayhem products (Blitz/Pastel etc.)


----------



## Blackops_2

Anyone know what this stuff is? I tore the loop down when i saw it the other day and flushed with distilled then retubed, added a 780, then reassembled, and low and behold it's back. Should i drain and hit it with blitz? I assume it's from the rad, i've never had any issue with growth with pastel.


----------



## broodro0ster

Blackops_2 said:


> Anyone know what this stuff is? I tore the loop down when i saw it the other day and flushed with distilled then retubed, added a 780, then reassembled, and low and behold it's back. Should i drain and hit it with blitz? I assume it's from the rad, i've never had any issue with growth with pastel.


Did you use the Blitz kit? Looks like particles from the radiators.


----------



## Blackops_2

broodro0ster said:


> Did you use the Blitz kit? Looks like particles from the radiators.


I didn't, admittedly i don't even remember cleaning it with hot distilled like i usually do. I figured that's what it was. I'm going to drain and run blitz through it this weekend.


----------



## DaLiu

NewUser16 said:


> You also don't need to add anything for about 12 months, that's the beauty of Biocide & Inhibitor+. This product is much stronger it does not break down or crystallize like Biocide Extreme that’s why it was recommend to change water every 6-12 months but you had to keep adding drop or two every 1-3 months to make sure it keeps working. Biocide Extreme is great I used it for 3 years but I had only copper and I would change water every 8-10 months.
> 
> With these 2 new products you can add few drops of each after 12 months and it will work great I’m sure but tbh. I would advice to just replace water every 12 months to ensure you have always clean system with fresh protection.


Do you also clean the components when you change the water every 12 months?

6 drops of Biocide & Inhibitor+ per 1 liter and change it every 12 months, in these 12 months do I need to add a drop every 3 months or this is if you keep the water more than 12 months?


----------



## 414347

DaLiu said:


> Do you also clean the components when you change the water every 12 months?
> 
> 6 drops of Biocide & Inhibitor+ per 1 liter and change it every 12 months, in these 12 months do I need to add a drop every 3 months or this is if you keep the water more than 12 months?


Yes, 6 drops of each per 1L and NO I don't take anything apart...ever, unless you need to for wherever reason. If you use Distilled only with these 2 incredible products I can assure you , you will have very clean system for many years to come but the secret is to clean your radiators properly right from the Get-Go and use Blitz #2 occasionally e.g. every 12-18 months (you don't need to but it does clean internals nicely)

Once you make your mixture with Biocide+ & Inhibitor+ fill your loop(s) and you don't need to worry about adding any drops for 12 months, only after that you can add few drops depending on how much liquid your system holds and you only add few drops of each, but tbh. changing liquid every 12 months I found to be the best, your system will be as clean as can be and that's when you never have to worry about taking anything apart, unless you upgrading or changing something


----------



## DaLiu

NewUser16 said:


> Yes, 6 drops of each per 1L and NO I don't take anything apart...ever, unless you need to for wherever reason. If you use Distilled only with these 2 incredible products I can assure you , you will have very clean system for many years to come but the secret is to clean your radiators properly right from the Get-Go and use Blitz #2 occasionally e.g. every 12-18 months (you don't need to but it does clean internals nicely)
> 
> Once you make your mixture with Biocide+ & Inhibitor+ fill your loop(s) and you don't need to worry about adding any drops for 12 months, only after that you can add few drops depending on how much liquid your system holds and you only add few drops of each, but tbh. changing liquid every 12 months I found to be the best, your system will be as clean as can be and that's when you never have to worry about taking anything apart, unless you upgrading or changing something


Do you use some branded distilled water?


----------



## 414347

Any Distilled-Ozonated is the same


----------



## DaLiu

NewUser16 said:


> Any Distilled-Ozonated is the same


So if I buy this, should be ok? 

https://www.dm.de/denkmit-destilliertes-wasser-p4010355021540.html


----------



## 414347

DaLiu said:


> So if I buy this, should be ok?
> 
> https://www.dm.de/denkmit-destilliertes-wasser-p4010355021540.html


Absolutely.....any distilled or DI is good especially if your using Mayhems Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ these 2 combine will make the best liquid you can get.

This system never used anything but Distilled water with Mayhems Extreme for the last 3 years and now Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ for the past 12-14 months and I have never disassembled this workstation and its as clean as brand new. I have similar system maybe not to this extend but system that I test my new blocs and performance against new liquids and I do take that systems apart, including blocks to see the changes of internals (nickle plating, micro channels condition) after liquid has been going through them 24/7 for several months and that's were my certainty of opinion coming from I don't just use new liquid for few days and say...works great


----------



## DaLiu

NewUser16 said:


> Absolutely.....any distilled or DI is good especially if your using Mayhems Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ these 2 combine will make the best liquid you can get.
> 
> This system never used anything but Distilled water with Mayhems Extreme for the last 3 years and now Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ for the past 12-14 months and I have never disassembled this workstation and its as clean as brand new. I have similar system maybe not to this extend but system that I test my new blocs and performance against new liquids and I do take that systems apart, including blocks to see the changes of internals (nickle plating, micro channels condition) after liquid has been going through them 24/7 for several months and that's were my certainty of opinion coming from I don't just use new liquid for few days and say...works great


Last question, adding Mayhems Non Stain Blue Dye 15ml in this mix (distilled water + Biocide + Inhibitor) will affect the water in any negative way?


----------



## 414347

I have never used dye's so I cannot answer that1


----------



## DaLiu

Thanks a lot for all the info.


----------



## gotic

I just finished washing my 2 new radiators soaking for 11hours (EK XE360 and BP Leviathan Slim 360) with Blitz kit part1... Something weird happened, the BP caps turned black on the bottom and on the XE, the caps had like a grey residue that has the feeling of sand.. Is this normal?
Should I wash both radiators again for 12hours.


----------



## 414347

Are you referring to (BP) Bitspower fitting if yes then there is nothing weird about that, acid will eat any finish that is on metal that's the purpose of Blitz#1 it will clean everything that its left from manufacturing, don't use the same plug fittings for anything else.

No!!! don't soak rads again that's enough.


----------



## DarthBaggins

no the dye will have no effect on the mix.


----------



## emsj86

I thought they recalled the aurora silver fluid. I just ordered a week ago and both were uv clear not aurora silver. Upset because I needed this pc up for christmas as I have a lan Im going to. Ordered from PPCS


----------



## SHNS0

Mayhem said:


> SHNS0 you need to post more info e.g how was the system cleaned and what were the specs of the cooling system, with out this you'll be running around in circles. If you need direct help hit up our direct support on our site.


System was half new as I was revamping it: phobya radiator, bykski waterblock, bitspower gpu block, barrow fittings, and mayhems clear soft tubing.
The customer's original loop was a clusterf*** so i cleaned by hand whatever I could, rad was cleaned with blitz 1 and then whole assembled system with blitz 2.
I wonder if Pastel is very sensitive to quality of metals or if there's other variables i didn't consider. I'm pretty sure I flushed the system according to the manual.

The sedimentation started after just a few days and was quite thick after a week, took a couple days of running to mostly clear it out.
No clogging or performance issues, it just looked pretty bad.

My personal system for which I'd consider to try Pastel again is overall higher quality with EPDM tubing, Watercool blocks and tank, and still with Barrow fittings.
Currently running X1 clear which is working very well although with the good old yellowish tint


----------



## skupples

5 year old x1 clear + US distilled. All I did was water flush radiators with a sump pump loop.

I even drained it into a dirty protein powder tub, that I don’t think was rinsed & it’s still that clear! 

I’ll post EK full copper supremacy insides later.


----------



## gotic

NewUser16 said:


> Are you referring to (BP) Bitspower fitting if yes then there is nothing weird about that, acid will eat any finish that is on metal that's the purpose of Blitz#1 it will clean everything that its left from manufacturing, don't use the same plug fittings for anything else.
> 
> No!!! don't soak rads again that's enough.


Thanks but what do you mean to not use the same plug fittings for anything else? I cant use it on my loop?
I dont feel like throwing bitspower fittings in the garbage lol it is expensive!!!


----------



## 414347

gotic said:


> Thanks but what do you mean to not use the same plug fittings for anything else? I cant use it on my loop?
> I dont feel like throwing bitspower fittings in the garbage lol it is expensive!!!


Technically you can reused them in the loop, no problem there the coating is already stripped anyways so there will be no harm there. I am very meticulous and I wouldn't use them in my system even thou they wouldn't cause issues. 

BP fittings are copper and have very tight fit tolerance that's why they so expensive. In one of my systems fittings alone costs close to $1500 so trust me when I tell you I know they aren't cheep but they are worth every penny. 

TO ANYONE who is wondering about BP vs Barrow fittings as it seem to be controversy among people who thinks Barrow are re branded and made fittings by BP.....

My nephew was building big system last years and he got cheep and got some Barrow fittings thinking they are similar to BP....Barrow and BP are not the same fittings, they are not even in the same scope of product when comes to overall quality, Barrow are cheep manufacturer and my Nephew learn that the hard way

Anyways you can reused the plugs if you wish, it was my personal preference I imposed on you that's all it was


----------



## skupples

I’ve had good luck with Enzo (If they still exist) they aren’t really any cheeper tho. They just do some things a little differently. 


5 years of dust. Sry.


----------



## DaLiu

NewUser16 said:


> TO ANYONE who is wondering about BP vs Barrow fittings as it seem to be controversy among people who thinks Barrow are re branded and made fittings by BP.....
> 
> My nephew was building big system last years and he got cheep and got some Barrow fittings thinking they are similar to BP....Barrow and BP are not the same fittings, they are not even in the same scope of product when comes to overall quality, Barrow are cheep manufacturer and my Nephew learn that the hard way


Can you give more details about the issue, I bought a lot of Bykski fittings (really similar to Barrow) which they look really good quality and I am going to build the system around them.


----------



## 414347

DaLiu said:


> Can you give more details about the issue, I bought a lot of Bykski fittings (really similar to Barrow) which they look really good quality and I am going to build the system around them.


Quite a bit of people think that Barrow fittings are made by Bitspower just without the logo but that is far from the true. BP doesn't have copyright on their products so not much they can do. From lengthily conversations I had with BP, they don't seem to really care . Barrow is thief of copy Bitspower product but the quality and material they use is cheap and users purchasing Barrow products sooner or later can discover that for themselves. 

You can copy all you want and on the surface might look quite good to an average person until you start using them. Barrow uses brass which is copper and zinc rather than pure copper, they use O-rings that are made out of cheep rubber, I'm not sure what is made of but they tear very easy and when you tighten them in your system, you have to go all the way until you cannot go any further otherwise most likely they will leak down the road like they did for my Nephew despite they were very tight fit.

Also, if you get something like Black Matte or dark finish it comes off like crazy, maybe not at first and that is strange but giving a bit time their coating comes off very easy.

I won’t mention name, but another company who is, actually was selling Barrow fittings in Germany just dropped them due to several issues with many people that are complaining about leaks and none consistent tolerance in fit, some are way small some bigger.
People who appreciate quality knows the difference between org. and fraudulent copy products and when you hear or see something that might be to good to be true....well most of the times is bad


----------



## DaLiu

I know Bykski and Barrow are the main producers of fittings for Asian market, many builders place them above EK or other well known brands which are more expensive, I see a lot of professional builders from Australia using most of the time Barrow and Bykski, none of them complained about the quality, actually they recommend them. 

I ordered only silver fittings from Bykski and I really love the quality, can't say much about the materials used but I will let you know about the quality in the future once I will have my first watercooled build.


----------



## 414347

You might be very happy with your purchase. Don't get me wrong I'm not implying you shouldn't get what is good in your opinion and most of all what fits your budget what I stated was only my opinion and preference.

Good luck with U new build


----------



## DaLiu

NewUser16 said:


> You might be very happy with your purchase. Don't get me wrong I'm not implying you shouldn't get what is good in your opinion and most of all what fits your budget what I stated was only my opinion and preference.
> 
> Good luck with U new build


I will let you know, cheers!


----------



## svntwoo

Mayhem said:


> There all new products we've been working on.


Can you elaborate on the X1 coolant temp ranges? 

"Mayhems X1 has slightly better heat transfer and flow characteristics than propylene glycol for systems operating between + 50°C to - 8°C" 

Loop temp maxes around 34-37°C, CPU block sees temps around 65°C. Is that considered within spec of the X1 or would that be out of spec?

I have a Bits Power PETG setup and was about to order some X1 Blood Red, just wanting to make sure that will work.


----------



## captminer

looking fwd for mayhems to get back to me with their recommendation, can't wait to complete this build & fill it up !

Regarding fittings, i'm using byski so far so good, but barrow is very poor quality, i got them locally & ain't gonna use it for this build, will go for byski or other brands & of course bitspower is top notch (i might upgrade all fittings in the future)

Build not completed yet & will be changing from time to time such as the layout, changing fittings, adding or removing gpus, so on & so forth but the pic with the green background is pretty much it for now while i work on the next layout/upgrades to the desk.

Tubers are acrylic, my 1st hard pipe build & 1st time building on a desk. Might go for PETG next time, let's see.


----------



## 414347

captminer said:


> looking fwd for mayhems to get back to me with their recommendation, can't wait to complete this build & fill it up !
> 
> Regarding fittings, i'm using byski so far so good, but barrow is very poor quality, i got them locally & ain't gonna use it for this build, will go for byski or other brands & of course bitspower is top notch (i might upgrade all fittings in the future)
> 
> Build not completed yet & will be changing from time to time such as the layout, changing fittings, adding or removing gpus, so on & so forth but the pic with the green background is pretty much it for now while i work on the next layout/upgrades to the desk.
> 
> Tubers are acrylic, my 1st hard pipe build & 1st time building on a desk. Might go for PETG next time, let's see.


This seem like its going to be a fancy build..Nice. I agree Barrow are cheaply made, maybe you won’t see things at first but sooner or later people can see the cheep material they use. I always said, when dealing with water and electronics, there is no compromising and fittings need to be as good as you can get.

I know Bitspower are the most expensive, but they are really good quality and you also buy them once and they last pretty much lifetime, you can go from build to build I have some that are almost 10 years old and look like new.

Btw. Post you whole build once you done


----------



## captminer

you dont have to quote the attached pix too lol.

it's not a"fancy" (well it might later down the road) build it's something i need to use & it's a big upgrade for me & hoping it will last me for couple of years down the road.

so far bykski is good no issues at all with their WB's & fittings but as for barrow, stay away with the poor QC.

here comes the fancy part in the near future when i finalize the layout, i might have to run a dual system & yeah maybe some BitsPower.

yeps, i might open up my own thread later on when at least this build is completed before the next plan/layout/addition to the build in the future. it surely does takes lots of planning & lots of hardwork, always ez to see, dream & talk but actually doing it is another story but no doubt i'm learning alot along the way & enjoying it.

Since it may end up as a dual system, that's the reason why i ordered quite a large amount variety of coolants from mayhems but i think just this pictured build alone it will need about 1.2-1.5 litres to fill it up just on a single 200mm res, must be the dual 60x360mm rads, it takes abt 550ml to fill up 1 rad.


----------



## DarthBaggins

PETG is easy to work with but carries issues w/ fluid compatibility and that's where the benefit of Acrylic or Glass come in. I know I can use my standard Pastel from Mayhems with the PETG but I can't use the Pastel Extreme - but I have 2L of pre-mix Pastel Light Gray that needs to be used and plan on using it in the rebuild when I move to the beQuiet SB 801 from my 303 (which the 303 is going to be used in a client's build to cut down on costs for them and it's a family friend I'm building a rig for their 11yr old son)


----------



## MikkoM

First time using colored fluid, mayhems deep red dye. Maybe after year using can see does is discolour blocks, if doing some maintenance. 240mm radiator and fittings are from barrow, rest are from ek.


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## Jspinks020

I want a white case.

I like the oils concoction's looks like Ghost and like someone said Ice Dragon. The New Hose was a hairrr smaller on the size and tolerance for 1/2" fit pretty tight on those fittings.


----------



## skupples

That seems reasonable. Pretty sure they’re even caution of this. The darkest dye i use is clear blue.


----------



## 414347

captminer said:


> you dont have to quote the attached pix too lol.
> 
> it's not a"fancy" (well it might later down the road) build it's something i need to use & it's a big upgrade for me & hoping it will last me for couple of years down the road.
> 
> so far bykski is good no issues at all with their WB's & fittings but as for barrow, stay away with the poor QC.
> 
> here comes the fancy part in the near future when i finalize the layout, i might have to run a dual system & yeah maybe some BitsPower.
> 
> yeps, i might open up my own thread later on when at least this build is completed before the next plan/layout/addition to the build in the future. it surely does takes lots of planning & lots of hardwork, always ez to see, dream & talk but actually doing it is another story but no doubt i'm learning alot along the way & enjoying it.
> 
> Since it may end up as a dual system, that's the reason why i ordered quite a large amount variety of coolants from mayhems but i think just this pictured build alone it will need about 1.2-1.5 litres to fill it up just on a single 200mm res, must be the dual 60x360mm rads, it takes abt 550ml to fill up 1 rad.


You right, I didn't have to quote your pics, there was a reason I did but you obviously missed the point and...

You right again, it’s not a fancy, but once again, you missed the reason I said that 

Average person (at least humbled person) would know how to respond  

You welcome and good luck with your build


----------



## Jspinks020

NewUser16 said:


> You right, I didn't have to quote your pics, there was a reason I did but you obviously missed the point and...
> 
> You right again, it’s not a fancy, but once again, you missed the reason I said that
> 
> Average person (at least humbled person) would know how to respond
> 
> You welcome and good luck with your build


No nothing Fancy at all but yeah the Byski Block Performs well. It's like stuff Barrow started doing...They started slinging out all kinda Nickel Blocks. and yeah that is like a real 1/2" none clamped on the GPU fittings. really gotta shove that hose on there lol

Old and know a good block when I see one. It looked like a good one and it is has some Mass for it's size.


----------



## captminer

NewUser16 said:


> You right, I didn't have to quote your pics, there was a reason I did but you obviously missed the point and...
> 
> You right again, it’s not a fancy, but once again, you missed the reason I said that
> 
> Average person (at least humbled person) would know how to respond
> 
> You welcome and good luck with your build



Best is stick to topic & no need to see one using some "wise" words & wasn't really replying to you. You have answered yourself on your 2nd statement.

Apologies to OP (if my posts were out of topic) & back to topic & thread, waiting for Mayhems to reply (pls chk pm) & hope to ship out after their holidays. 

Should be just nice as i'm waiting on couple of other parts too.


----------



## Andrew LB

NewUser16 said:


> Quite a bit of people think that Barrow fittings are made by Bitspower just without the logo but that is far from the true. BP doesn't have copyright on their products so not much they can do. From lengthily conversations I had with BP, they don't seem to really care . Barrow is thief of copy Bitspower product but the quality and material they use is cheap and users purchasing Barrow products sooner or later can discover that for themselves.



This is absolute horses**t. While barrow fittings were similar to bitspower initially, they are clearly different product today. I have fittings from both brands and Barrow in many ways makes a superior product. Barrow uses additional o-rings in their hardline compression fittings and the tubes seat deeper, giving it a more secure connection.




> You can copy all you want and on the surface might look quite good to an average person until you start using them. Barrow uses brass which is copper and zinc rather than pure copper, they use O-rings that are made out of cheep rubber, I'm not sure what is made of but they tear very easy and when you tighten them in your system, you have to go all the way until you cannot go any further otherwise most likely they will leak down the road like they did for my Nephew despite they were very tight fit.


Umm... Bitspower fittings are brass. Clearly you don't know what you're talking about. 






> Also, if you get something like Black Matte or dark finish it comes off like crazy, maybe not at first and that is strange but giving a bit time their coating comes off very easy.


1.5 years for mine and zero issues other than where to spend the money i saved. 






> I won’t mention name, but another company who is, actually was selling Barrow fittings in Germany just dropped them due to several issues with many people that are complaining about leaks and none consistent tolerance in fit, some are way small some bigger.
> People who appreciate quality knows the difference between org. and fraudulent copy products and when you hear or see something that might be to good to be true....well most of the times is bad


Strange, care to provide a source? As of right now, Watercool.de is still selling barrow fittings.


----------



## skupples

i looked at Bitspower like this - you'll only have to buy them once. 

I've used the same set in 4 different builds now, any other fitting that wasn't BP or EnzoTech has had to go into the trash long ago. Most were either failed rotary o-rings, or corrosion that would only set into the cheap metal products.

Hell, I'm just now replacing all the O-rings on them. (such a pain in the ass job)


----------



## 414347

Andrew LB said:


> This is absolute horses**t. While barrow fittings were similar to bitspower initially, they are clearly different product today. I have fittings from both brands and Barrow in many ways makes a superior product. Barrow uses additional o-rings in their hardline compression fittings and the tubes seat deeper, giving it a more secure connection.
> 
> 
> 
> Umm... Bitspower fittings are brass. Clearly you don't know what you're talking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.5 years for mine and zero issues other than where to spend the money i saved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange, care to provide a source? As of right now, Watercool.de is still selling barrow fittings.


Barrow just started using 2 inner O-rings and 1 compression O-ring = 3 O-rings because they had a lot of leaks with traditional dual Enhanced multi link fittings, my nephew was one of them. Barrow cannot produce fittings, especially for hard tubing even close enough to Bitspower fit tolerance fittings...why do you think they went with the extra O-ring "tube goes deeper" heheh, no kidding, it doesn't make it better I can assure you heheh.

Most Barrow fittings bras/ nickel plated or cheep mixed copper that turn green within hours.

Watercool it’s not the only German company who sells Barrow fittings but since you mentioned!! they got rid of some of Barrow fittings month or so ago due to extremely poor quality, watch them ditching some of the Barrow fittings soon as well. 

I understand that many people are on budget and there is nothing wrong with getting budget parts, I'm just saying you cannot compare Barrow or EK to Bitspower, these are not even in the same chart of quality components that's why some people after years drop water cooling all together because they have leaks all of the suddenly and they don't realize the fittings is one of the things you cannot be cheep, you can either have enjoyable and long great experience or you can hate it. Things might look OK at first but cheep quality especially fittings don't last long and sooner or later they can cause problems and I know many people who have learn that the hard way, it can be fun right or miserable disaster. 

I wish you all the best of luck and I truly hope you don't have to be left out with bad taste in your mouth.

Good luck


----------



## Jspinks020

NewUser16 said:


> Barrow just started using 2 inner O-rings and 1 compressing O-ring = 3 O-rings because they had major recalls of leaks with traditional dual Enhanced multi link fittings. Barrow cannot reproduce fittings with even close enough fit tolerance that Bitspower does that's why they went with the extra O-ring "tube goes deeper" heheh, no kidding, it doesn't make it better I can assure you heheh.
> 
> Most Barrow fittings bras/ nickel plated or cheep mixed copper that turn green within hours.
> 
> Watercool it’s not the only German company ho sells Barrow fittings but since you mentioned Watercool got rid of some of Barrow fittings month or so ago due to extremely poor quality and watch them ditching Barrow soon as well.
> 
> I understand that many people are on budget and there is nothing wrong with getting budget parts, I'm just saying you cannot compare Barrow or EK to Bitspower these are not even in the same chart of quality components that's why some people after years drop water cooling because they have leaks all of the suddenly and they don't realize things at firs might look OK but cheep quality especially fittings don't last long and sooner or later causing problems and I know many people who learn the hard way and then they say " It was fun right but I'm done with water cooling"
> 
> I wish you all the best of luck and I truly hope you don't have to be left out with bad taste in your mouth.
> 
> Good luck


Barrow did make some good deeper fittings. I don't know I had just bought a couple cheap big fittings whats on that gpu..and they didn't even send the right Clamps....but yeah that's brass too.

Just get some adjustable clamps or find 1/2" that's right or just buy 5/8" because they make everything small again lol

9/16" was hard lol


----------



## 414347

skupples said:


> i looked at Bitspower like this - you'll only have to buy them once.
> 
> I've used the same set in 4 different builds now, any other fitting that wasn't BP or EnzoTech has had to go into the trash long ago. Most were either failed rotary o-rings, or corrosion that would only set into the cheap metal products.
> 
> Hell, I'm just now replacing all the O-rings on them. (such a pain in the ass job)


Yes Bitspower fittings can last very long time if not life time if you use proper liquid and don't abuse them during install. People don't realize that there is more to quality then just copy something to make it look similar to well knowing superior brand(s) 

90% of these fittings are 10 years old and older but they look like the day I got them and they have been in so many different builds..Yet!! they are still very tight on rotary and fit wise, what can I say Singularity Computers "Daniel" inspired me to use Bitspower 

And once again, there are people on budget so thee is nothing wrong with getting Barrow or other brands but I only raise my opinion when someone trying to compare apples to rotten bananas


----------



## skupples

Damage done from garbage stuff is a dangerous curve. I got lucky when some of my bobo fittings leaked, as it dropped right into a seen & out the case. Most people end up with fried $1000 cards and $400 GPUs. 

Permanently clogged blocks from nasty coolant. 

It’s all the same. 

Cheep Chinese main seal, now your clutch, tranny, and engine leak! (Or two of those theee I forget now. That was my one time being cheep without needing to be, & it cost me an additional $3k and a lawsuit)


----------



## jura11

NewUser16 said:


> Barrow just started using 2 inner O-rings and 1 compression O-ring = 3 O-rings because they had a lot of leaks with traditional dual Enhanced multi link fittings, my nephew was one of them. Barrow cannot produce fittings, especially for hard tubing even close enough to Bitspower fit tolerance fittings...why do you think they went with the extra O-ring "tube goes deeper" heheh, no kidding, it doesn't make it better I can assure you heheh.
> 
> Most Barrow fittings bras/ nickel plated or cheep mixed copper that turn green within hours.
> 
> Watercool it’s not the only German company who sells Barrow fittings but since you mentioned!! they got rid of some of Barrow fittings month or so ago due to extremely poor quality, watch them ditching some of the Barrow fittings soon as well.
> 
> I understand that many people are on budget and there is nothing wrong with getting budget parts, I'm just saying you cannot compare Barrow or EK to Bitspower, these are not even in the same chart of quality components that's why some people after years drop water cooling all together because they have leaks all of the suddenly and they don't realize the fittings is one of the things you cannot be cheep, you can either have enjoyable and long great experience or you can hate it. Things might look OK at first but cheep quality especially fittings don't last long and sooner or later they can cause problems and I know many people who have learn that the hard way, it can be fun right or miserable disaster.
> 
> I wish you all the best of luck and I truly hope you don't have to be left out with bad taste in your mouth.
> 
> Good luck



Hi there 

If you have personal vendetta against the Barrow, if yes please start own thread 

I have only best experience with Barrow or Bykski fittings, use them on several builds, my own build is running 24/7 only Barrow fittings plus their Barrow DDC pump,my Barrow fittings are at least 2 year old and never have any issues with fittings, trust me I check every fitting after I do teardown every 6 months, there is no discolouration on any fitting, every fitting have same colour like they're come, which I can't say about few other makers of fittings which I have used on few builds like is EK

My own loop went through the few tubings like EK DuraClear, Mayhems clear and then UV White tubing and now I'm on EK ZMT and Tygon A-60-G tubing which is in basement or in pedestal 

On my build I went via few coolants as well, started with Mayhems Pastel, then EK CryoFuel Blood Red for test, Mayhems X1 Blood red and clear and stayed with X1 until now

I used their(Barrow) pumps, reservoir etc on my brother build amd still no issues,there I use their chrome plated copper tubing and their V4 fittings, my brother is now close to 1 year on his build 

Regarding the other fittings, I have own issues with big makers like Koolance and their poor quality of the QDC and then Alphacool 45° or 90° fittings which has leaked straight away 

Switched from Koolance QD3 to Barrow QDC fittings and now I'm with these fittings at 5 month and no issues, with Koolance I have already issue with stuck open QD3 

I don't use Enhanced multi link fitting,due this I can't comment if they're good or not, but have used Barrow V3 or V4 fittings and never run to issues, I use on my build only soft tubing and Barrow fittings, only these and Bykski are compatible with EK ZMT 

I would compare these fittings to any of makers, EK is overrated, you know that, everybody knows that, Bitspower is nice but expensive over here in UK or EU, good luck with good price on these fittings and try RMA anything from Bitspower, friend went via few issues with their WB and been burned badly with RMA and they just didn't wanted to admit fault at all 

Regarding the leaks,what caused in my case leaks has been Alphacool fittings, EK XE360 radiator which has leaked and caused small havoc in my case then Koolance QD3 black ones and EK ball valve which wouldn't seal anything, with handle closed its still will leak

I would assume you are never used Barrow fittings and due this you are so suspicious about them and regarding yours nephew hard to say

Most of here guys don't have issues, but you always find someone who have issues with one maker or other maker

Have look Barrow is no longer cheap like has been previously, their fittings or parts are now sometimes comparable to other makers, but I still use them as I trust them more than EK or Alphacool 

And we shouldn't polute this thread about the fittings etc and personal vendetta , when this thread is about the coolants and Mayhems 

If you have issues post own thread etc, there is Barrow thread as well and post there own comments or view on this

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Jspinks020

I don't know dude..it's cheap china..dollar or two fittings...but the big ones are Barrow like and deeper. And EK's just ok fittings. It will work. but those are nice too the smaller shorter Collar.
Paranoid no clamp on there..but it's tight as **** anyways.


----------



## 414347

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> If you have personal vendetta against the Barrow, if yes please start own thread
> 
> I have only best experience with Barrow or Bykski fittings, use them on several builds, my own build is running 24/7 only Barrow fittings plus their Barrow DDC pump,my Barrow fittings are at least 2 year old and never have any issues with fittings, trust me I check every fitting after I do teardown every 6 months, there is no discolouration on any fitting, every fitting have same colour like they're come, which I can't say about few other makers of fittings which I have used on few builds like is EK
> 
> My own loop went through the few tubings like EK DuraClear, Mayhems clear and then UV White tubing and now I'm on EK ZMT and Tygon A-60-G tubing which is in basement or in pedestal
> 
> On my build I went via few coolants as well, started with Mayhems Pastel, then EK CryoFuel Blood Red for test, Mayhems X1 Blood red and clear and stayed with X1 until now
> 
> I used their(Barrow) pumps, reservoir etc on my brother build amd still no issues,there I use their chrome plated copper tubing and their V4 fittings, my brother is now close to 1 year on his build
> 
> Regarding the other fittings, I have own issues with big makers like Koolance and their poor quality of the QDC and then Alphacool 45° or 90° fittings which has leaked straight away
> 
> Switched from Koolance QD3 to Barrow QDC fittings and now I'm with these fittings at 5 month and no issues, with Koolance I have already issue with stuck open QD3
> 
> I don't use Enhanced multi link fitting,due this I can't comment if they're good or not, but have used Barrow V3 or V4 fittings and never run to issues, I use on my build only soft tubing and Barrow fittings, only these and Bykski are compatible with EK ZMT
> 
> I would compare these fittings to any of makers, EK is overrated, you know that, everybody knows that, Bitspower is nice but expensive over here in UK or EU, good luck with good price on these fittings and try RMA anything from Bitspower, friend went via few issues with their WB and been burned badly with RMA and they just didn't wanted to admit fault at all
> 
> Regarding the leaks,what caused in my case leaks has been Alphacool fittings, EK XE360 radiator which has leaked and caused small havoc in my case then Koolance QD3 black ones and EK ball valve which wouldn't seal anything, with handle closed its still will leak
> 
> I would assume you are never used Barrow fittings and due this you are so suspicious about them and regarding yours nephew hard to say
> 
> Most of here guys don't have issues, but you always find someone who have issues with one maker or other maker
> 
> Have look Barrow is no longer cheap like has been previously, their fittings or parts are now sometimes comparable to other makers, but I still use them as I trust them more than EK or Alphacool
> 
> And we shouldn't polute this thread about the fittings etc and personal vendetta , when this thread is about the coolants and Mayhems
> 
> If you have issues post own thread etc, there is Barrow thread as well and post there own comments or view on this
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Hi there,

No there is absolutely no vendetta, I can assure you its totally from a person with unbiased stand point. I wouldn't have a reason and like I said before I was even considering Barrow but after hearing from others and seen some in person of their so call "good fittings for hard tube" + my nephews disaster....BIG NO NO for me, let’s face it, Barrow uses cheaper material to cut cost and there is no denying that. 

As for other brands and their issues!! Koolance for example it’s not the highest quality product as well, they make OK products and there is nothing wrong buying them, although now after having some in the past I wouldn't considered and I had their 380i for a while before discovering quite a few of their own imperfections.

Why I like Bitspower? and don't get me wrong, they have their own issues and I for one was about to ditch them 2-3 months ago, not for the reason we speak of, but they aren't perfect either as far is other aspects of their product but when comes to quality of their fittings, let’s be honest, there is no competition, its only "on budget" users opinion between what they can afford to spare and I am 100% sure if users who would have the means to choose between brands e.g. Barrow, Koolants, Alphacool Byski, Dazmode or Bitspower...I can assure you, it would be very easy for them to decide and I'm sure you going to say otherwise


----------



## war4peace

Anecdotal evidence does not make a rule. I know people who love EK and people who hate EK. Same with Barrow, Bitspower, Mayhems, Koolance, Alphacool, Aquacomputer, you name it and I know people who like them and people who hate them. In the end it's all about personal experience, and that's it. Nobody should generalize with a sample size of one or a few. Bring evidence from hundreds or thousands of people and that would be statistically significant.


----------



## 414347

war4peace said:


> Anecdotal evidence does not make a rule. I know people who love EK and people who hate EK. Same with Barrow, Bitspower, Mayhems, Koolance, Alphacool, Aquacomputer, you name it and I know people who like them and people who hate them. In the end it's all about personal experience, and that's it. Nobody should generalize with a sample size of one or a few. Bring evidence from hundreds or thousands of people and that would be statistically significant.


Like I said way earlier, there is nothing wrong with liking one brand over the other, compering products not only in PC world have been always controversial, its strictly user personal preference and reasons for their "right" choice


----------



## skupples

idk know if I'd agree to strictly, but many many things come down to the user properly doing everything, which is a bit overwhelming your first or second time, so much so you may actually put your own foot in your arse.

i'm still confused as to why someone thinks mick is lying about his own product turning or not.


----------



## 414347

skupples said:


> idk know if I'd agree to strictly, but many many things come down to the user properly doing everything, which is a bit overwhelming your first or second time, so much so you may actually put your own foot in your arse.
> 
> i'm still confused as to why someone thinks mick is lying about his own product turning or not.


Sorry, I'm not sure about "why someone thinks mick is lying about his own product turning or not" I'm sure I'm missing something here


----------



## skupples

NewUser16 said:


> Sorry, I'm not sure about "why someone thinks mick is lying about his own product turning or not" I'm sure I'm missing something here


the guy that keeps buying bunk coolants online, instead of taking everyone's original two points of advice (biocide & inhibitor, or X1)


----------



## 414347

skupples said:


> the guy that keeps buying bunk coolants online, instead of taking everyone's original two points of advice (biocide & inhibitor, or X1)


Ahh..Yes i get you. There are some just don't like to take others word as an advice than creating their own issues that could potentially be avoided


----------



## brazilianloser

That moment when you are forced to buy the UV version of the pastel white because the regular one is never available...


----------



## iamjanco

So, quick question... I'll probably be needing 5-10 liters (if not more) of coolant in the next few weeks (I'm working on multiple, large builds at the same time). I've got ZMT, acrylic tubes, nickel plated brass tubing and fittings, nickel plated copper blocks, and copper tubed rads. I'm thinking of going with distilled and a 5 liter bottle of clear XT-1 Nuke concentrate, but would I be better off with X1? 

I'm not committed here yet of course, well at least not in the literal sense. --TIA!


----------



## skupples

iamjanco said:


> So, quick question... I'll probably be needing 5-10 liters (if not more) of coolant in the next few weeks (I'm working on multiple, large builds at the same time). I've got ZMT, acrylic tubes, nickel plated brass tubing and fittings, nickel plated copper blocks, and copper tubed rads. I'm thinking of going with distilled and a 5 liter bottle of clear XT-1 Nuke concentrate, but would I be better off with X1?
> 
> I'm not committed here yet of course, well at least not in the literal sense. --TIA!


I would stick to X1 for now. We KNOW it works. 

I just ran x1 in a totally nasty loop as far as mixing goes for 5 years, and the results are astounding.


 I'm mixing X1 and x1 clear uv blue this time cuz I could only find one bottle of x1.


----------



## SHNS0

NewUser16 said:


> Quite a bit of people think that Barrow fittings are made by Bitspower just without the logo but that is far from the true. BP doesn't have copyright on their products so not much they can do. From lengthily conversations I had with BP, they don't seem to really care . Barrow is thief of copy Bitspower product but the quality and material they use is cheap and users purchasing Barrow products sooner or later can discover that for themselves.
> 
> You can copy all you want and on the surface might look quite good to an average person until you start using them. Barrow uses brass which is copper and zinc rather than pure copper, they use O-rings that are made out of cheep rubber, I'm not sure what is made of but they tear very easy and when you tighten them in your system, you have to go all the way until you cannot go any further otherwise most likely they will leak down the road like they did for my Nephew despite they were very tight fit.
> 
> Also, if you get something like Black Matte or dark finish it comes off like crazy, maybe not at first and that is strange but giving a bit time their coating comes off very easy.
> 
> I won’t mention name, but another company who is, actually was selling Barrow fittings in Germany just dropped them due to several issues with many people that are complaining about leaks and none consistent tolerance in fit, some are way small some bigger.
> People who appreciate quality knows the difference between org. and fraudulent copy products and when you hear or see something that might be to good to be true....well most of the times is bad



Just to clear out some points as I have a good amount of experience with these products:

I've been using Barrow fittings (and a lot of other products from them) for the past 3 years and I've never experienced any issues. I've also never seen any damage, and definitely not something that looks like what was posted by Captminer.

A lot of what you see currently sold in US or Europe is very old designs or old stock. The Bitspower lookalike designs were old even when I started with them.
If you bought locally or on Aliexpress and had quality issues, it is possible that you actually got rejects or knockoffs (yes, they exist). There is only ONE place where to buy Barrow officially, and it's 100% in chinese - very few people buy there retail.
Very big WC shops will be importing directly from them, so you can trust the source.
But BEWARE of any small shop or local seller, and any Aliexpress seller. You never know what you are getting when dealing with a middleman on Aliexpress, or a small local seller that is maybe just buying off an Aliexpress middleman himself. Keep this always in mind before passing judgement.


Now Barrow isn't perfect - but Bitspower fittings are made of brass, just like Barrow. I've used Bitspower for 2 years before, and the o-rings feel the same to me.
I'm literally now dismantling a 1yo loop with only Barrow fittings - and the only defects I see are the ones I created myself by scratching and manhandling like an idiot. Which, by the way, happens also with Bitspower - their coatings are mediocre, thin and anything but scratch resistant in the same way.
If anything, one thing I really like about Barrow is that they often include extra o-rings and nice individual packaging. With Bitspower, last time I bought them I payed 3x-4x and got no extras in cheap zip baggies.


As previously said the "Bitspower lookalike" designs are super old and they've been making, selling and designing 100% their own original products ever since I started with them.
Actually, a good amount of their products especially in the past year have been extremely original and if anything I'd recognize them today as trend makers.
Some of their ideas and designs got copied by bigger companies - Bitspower included (the O11 waterboard and the premium master fittings).

This is true in general with a lot of what goes on in the chinese market.
A lot of stuff often starts there first, gets tried and tested, and then global companies bring their own implementations into the western market calling them "innovations".


I appreciate quality a lot, and neither Barrow nor Bitspower fittings are *TRUE* high quality. I'm still waiting for someone to bring out stainless steel for that.
And as for the brands, there are 2 major differences in my opinion:
- Barrow knows how to do serious premium when they want - and other times they do cheaper stuff. But the price they ask always reflects what you get. If you want to see how they do things when they get serious, check out their Barrowch product lineup like the waterblock, the Boxfish reservoir, etc.
- Bitspower charges ridiculous prices on anything they sell, and they can't do premium at all. Their idea of a fancy waterblock is cheap acrylic, with mediocre machining, and a stupid flaccid black plastic cover on top with ugly screws - for 150€. Yeah, right.


I also don't know which "German company" dropped them, but Watercool is still reselling them. And in terms of delivering only high quality, I think that there's very few companies in this market that understand it more than Watercool.


----------



## iamjanco

skupples said:


> I would stick to X1 for now. We KNOW it works.
> 
> I just ran x1 in a totally nasty loop as far as mixing goes for 5 years, and the results are astounding.
> 
> I'm mixing X1 and x1 clear uv blue this time cuz I could only find one bottle of x1.


Yeah, I followed your experience in the thread, thanks. I'm not fully up to speed on the XT-1 though. Do we have any indicators that it doesn't work (other than not to use it with PETG and various plasticized flex)?


----------



## skupples

not at all, the only thing I've ever heard about it is this one guy here, who doesn't know if its legit or not due to a scare with EK coolant, thus is awaiting a word from Mayhems. I mean, the stuff is called nuke, & the stuff looks like nuclear reactor fuel, so...


----------



## iamjanco

skupples said:


> not at all, the only thing I've ever heard about it is this one guy here, who doesn't know if its legit or not due to a scare with EK coolant, thus is awaiting a word from Mayhems. I mean, the stuff is called nuke, & the stuff looks like nuclear reactor fuel, so...


Ah, okay then. It's either going to be distilled and clear XT-1, or Koolance's clear 702 (bought in bulk). Either way, I've got half a dozen Blitz kits here ready for prep. 

Lol... just checked Amazon for pH meters and came up with *this*.


----------



## skupples

I’m jelly. I keep missing the restock on blitz kits. Just gonna do it the old fashion way. Acid bath, basic bath, rinse rinse rinse in a closed loop with filter.


----------



## war4peace

brazilianloser said:


> That moment when you are forced to buy the UV version of the pastel white because the regular one is never available...


I am now happy I stocked up with Pastel White. About 3 liters left


----------



## Mayhem

Small Update (actually its pretty much a mile stone but meh lets understate it)

MAYHEMS XT-1 NUKE & PETG

As of End of Nov 2018 / Dec 2018 

XT-1 Nuke has been redesigned from the ground up and now is fully compatible with Petg. Testing has been going on for quite some time and in our saturated testing is showing to work perfectly dammed fine. We cannot go into detail on how were doing this as it is a trade secret to Mayhems, It will not show on any SDS / MSDS sheet (due to it being a tiny amount of product we add to the base fluid). Its works by negating the long term effect ethylene glycol has with Petg. It has no long term issues and no long term effect on the PETG tubing. Its not a miracle cure or snake oil to fix Petg tubing its just a fix for our coolant and Petg tubing. 

This product will roll only as old stock it used up.

https://mayhems-tec.com/fireleap.mp3 

It has been tested on Thermal Take, XSPC, Alphacool and various Other PETG brands.


----------



## skupples

(Waits for dude to use this as a reason to say his coolant is bunk)


----------



## 66racer

Well, I thought I would do a quick post in here since I saw the thread. I have Mayhems pastel red in my 2700k loop. Has NOT been flushed in over 3yrs. The loop is mostly distilled water with just enough pastel red to get hue that I wanted. It is mostly transparent. Only thing in the loop is a silver kill coil otherwise. Using a Swiftech H220 pump, magicool 180mm rad and thats about it. The unit was in storage for about 10 months recently as I moved. Overall all looks well. No temp issues. This system is a backup test bench system so light duty but honestly I am surprised nothing is visibly growing inside the loop. Especially with that long of a time with no liquid movement.

Overall I am pleased. Color is what I remember it to be. This was kind of an experiment for me as when it was my main system I used to change fluid about once or twice a year. The H220 is fused onto the CPU thanks to some sort of a reaction with liquidpro but hey at least the H220 pump already failed once and got the revised pump lol 

(please not the specs in the image is dust on the glass window)


----------



## skupples

i had the same reaction after my STH10 sat in my storage unit for over a year. 

brought it home, turned it on, temps fine, ran it for 2 more years until break down - sparking clean.

n guess what?!?!? I didn't even blitz.


----------



## 414347

NewUser16 said:


> Yes, 6 drops of each per 1L and NO I don't take anything apart...ever, unless you need to for wherever reason. If you use Distilled only with these 2 incredible products I can assure you , you will have very clean system for many years to come but the secret is to clean your radiators properly right from the Get-Go and use Blitz #2 occasionally e.g. every 12-18 months (you don't need to but it does clean internals nicely)
> 
> Once you make your mixture with Biocide+ & Inhibitor+ fill your loop(s) and you don't need to worry about adding any drops for 12 months, only after that you can add few drops depending on how much liquid your system holds and you only add few drops of each, but tbh. changing liquid every 12 months I found to be the best, your system will be as clean as can be and that's when you never have to worry about taking anything apart, unless you upgrading or changing something


Sorry I have to apologies for giving the wrong info. Initially when you make mixture of each Biocide Plus & Inhibitor Plus you add 2 drops of each per 1L of distilled water, this stuff its powerful, then after that you add single drop of each every 3 months. 

There are certain circumstance where you can add up to 4 drops of each per 1L but that depends of few things, I think 2 drops are just the right amount to keep your system nice and healthy, this is really effective product


----------



## Zammin

Hey everyone

Just got my first Mayhems Blitz kit (pro kit) from Singularity Computers here in Aus. My understanding is that the mixture of part 1 can be reused more than once, I have a number of radiators to clean so I will try to reuse the same mixture where I can to be as efficient as possible. My question is, what kind of container is safe to store the used mixture in between uses? Obviously when it's mixed with water it won't fit back into the small bottle it came in. Would perhaps a glass jar be safe? Or an old PC coolant bottle? I have some empty bottles leftover from some old EK Cryofuel that I won't ever be using again.

Any advice is appreciated.


----------



## Mayhem

*Mayhems Biocide and Inhibitor + is gathering pace as more and more people are starting to see how good this product really is and how far superior it is to any other coolant or premixed fluid on the market. How ever there is one problem ....... !!!!!!!! People are adding to much of it to there systems. 2 drops of each Biocide + and inhibitor + to 1 Ltr of fluid is more than enough. 4 Drops is taking the piss and any thing more is just plain mental. So please please please if you are using our new Biocide + and inhibitor plus Don't add more than 2 drops of each per 1 Ltr ..... MORE IS NOT BETTER !!! this stuff is Super strong out of the bottle. You don't need it.

Were still even learning how strong we made this stuff ....  (i think i may have gone a bit overboard).*


----------



## Mayhem

Zammin said:


> Hey everyone
> 
> Just got my first Mayhems Blitz kit (pro kit) from Singularity Computers here in Aus. My understanding is that the mixture of part 1 can be reused more than once, I have a number of radiators to clean so I will try to reuse the same mixture where I can to be as efficient as possible. My question is, what kind of container is safe to store the used mixture in between uses? Obviously when it's mixed with water it won't fit back into the small bottle it came in. Would perhaps a glass jar be safe? Or an old PC coolant bottle? I have some empty bottles leftover from some old EK Cryofuel that I won't ever be using again.
> 
> Any advice is appreciated.


Old PC Coolant bottle will do or any HDPE / PETG bottle is fine.


----------



## Zammin

Mayhem said:


> Mayhems Biocide and Inhibitor + is gathering pace as more and more people are starting to see how good this product really is and how far superior it is to any other coolant or premixed fluid on the market. How ever there is one problem ....... !!!!!!!! People are adding to much of it to there systems. 2 drops of each Biocide + and inhibitor + to 1 Ltr of fluid is more than enough. 4 Drops is taking the piss and any thing more is just plain mental. So please please please if you are using our new Biocide + and inhibitor plus Don't add more than 2 drops of each per 1 Ltr ..... MORE IS NOT BETTER !!! this stuff is Super strong out of the bottle. You don't need it.
> 
> Were still even learning how strong we made this stuff ....


Hey Michael,

Thanks for clarifying. I remember you telling me 2 drops per litre back when I first purchased the stuff so I was a little bit confused about the whole 4-6 drops thing. Haven't had a chance to use the stuff yet but I have no doubt it's very good.

EDIT: thanks for answering my question about Blitz


----------



## Mayhem

read above


----------



## Zammin

Mayhem said:


> read above


Got it, cheers mate. We must've posted at the same time haha.


----------



## 414347

This combination of both Biocide & Inhibitor Plus is absolute killer. I could either brag or put down other brands but that wouldn't be fair, they all have their purpose and fanboys, but one thing I can say...after 14 months of using these two, Biocide & Inhibitor Plus and after seen the temps of my GPU's and CPU under full load and the way my blocks look after running pretty much 24/7 in my opinion...these are the best liquid for high performance systems you can get. 

I don't know what Mayhems puts in there but darnnn, he's good at what he does 

This is after almost 15 months of heavy use with Biocide & Inhibitor Plus, these 2 products are something else ( 3x Titans and 6950X crunching #ers 24/7 Its darn as clear as can be and blocks looked just as new, its amazon


----------



## Zammin

Alright I'm cleaning my first radiator (HWL 360GTS) with Blitz part 1. This is my first time using it. I didn't need a whole litre for one radiator so I made a quarter sized mixture of 250ml (containing 12.5ml part 1 as it takes 50ml per litre). I've got the radiator filled and capped off with the same white plastic caps used in the instruction video. I noticed that there is conflicting information between what's on the bottle and the instruction sheet that came with the kit. The instructions say leave for 6-12 hours but on the bottle it says do not leave for more than 6 hours? For now I'm going to aim for 6 hours to be safe but if anyone can clarify this for me in the mean time please let me know.


----------



## iamjanco

Mayhem said:


> *Mayhems Biocide and Inhibitor +* is gathering pace as more and more people are starting to see how good this product really is and how far superior it is to any other coolant or premixed fluid on the market. How ever there is one problem ....... !!!!!!!! People are adding to much of it to there systems. 2 drops of each Biocide + and inhibitor + to 1 Ltr of fluid is more than enough. 4 Drops is taking the piss and any thing more is just plain mental. So please please please if you are using our new Biocide + and inhibitor plus Don't add more than 2 drops of each per 1 Ltr ..... MORE IS NOT BETTER !!! this stuff is Super strong out of the bottle. You don't need it.
> 
> Were still even learning how strong we made this stuff ....  (i think i may have gone a bit overboard).


Thanks for that. Question: when you say "Mayhems Biocide and Inhibitor +" does that include a combination of Biocide Extreme and Inhibitor+, or just the Biocide+ and Inhibitor+? (e.g., can Biocide Extreme be used with Inhibitor+)?


----------



## 414347

iamjanco said:


> Thanks for that. Question: when you say "Mayhems Biocide and Inhibitor +" does that include a combination of Biocide Extreme and Inhibitor+, or just the Biocide+ and Inhibitor+? (e.g., can Biocide Extreme be used with Inhibitor+)?


I think Biocide Extreme is different formulation, it might work with Inhibitor+ although I'm not sure how well, but surely, you wont be able to use with dyes.

Although I think I know the answer but lets see what Mick will say, now I'm curious


----------



## broodro0ster

Zammin said:


> Alright I'm cleaning my first radiator (HWL 360GTS) with Blitz part 1. This is my first time using it. I didn't need a whole litre for one radiator so I made a quarter sized mixture of 250ml (containing 12.5ml part 1 as it takes 50ml per litre). I've got the radiator filled and capped off with the same white plastic caps used in the instruction video. I noticed that there is conflicting information between what's on the bottle and the instruction sheet that came with the kit. The instructions say leave for 6-12 hours but on the bottle it says do not leave for more than 6 hours? For now I'm going to aim for 6 hours to be safe but if anyone can clarify this for me in the mean time please let me know.


I read somewhere that the sticker on the bottle counts. Some regions receive a stronger product because the law allows it. 
I bought my kit in the beginning of December straight from Mayhems and there was 6-12h on the bottle. I left it in my rads for 10-11 hours. (overnight and go up after 6 hours to flip the rad upside down, because I couldn't get all the air out)

Then I flushed each rad 4 times with distilled until the fluid from flushing was PH neutral. And then Blitz part 2 in the finished loop for 24h.


iamjanco said:


> Thanks for that. Question: when you say "Mayhems Biocide and Inhibitor +" does that include a combination of Biocide Extreme and Inhibitor+, or just the Biocide+ and Inhibitor+? (e.g., can Biocide Extreme be used with Inhibitor+)?


I don't think Biocide Exterme shouldn't be used. It's not safe for nickel and I haven't heard of the combo with inhibitor+ and biocide extreme. Just get biocide+ and inhibitor+. They are supposed to work together and can be dyed.


----------



## Zammin

broodro0ster said:


> I read somewhere that the sticker on the bottle counts. Some regions receive a stronger product because the law allows it.
> I bought my kit in the beginning of December straight from Mayhems and there was 6-12h on the bottle. I left it in my rads for 10-11 hours. (overnight and go up after 6 hours to flip the rad upside down, because I couldn't get all the air out)
> 
> Then I flushed each rad 4 times with distilled until the fluid from flushing was PH neutral. And then Blitz part 2 in the finished loop for 24h.


Cheers. Yeah you might be right about it being different, The mayhems website actually says to mix 250ml of part 1 with 750ml distilled water, but my bottle of part 1 and the instructions say only 50ml of part 1 per 950ml distilled water. The stuff I got must be highly concentrated, which is good since I'll get more out of it that way.


----------



## Zammin

Zammin said:


> Alright I'm cleaning my first radiator (HWL 360GTS) with Blitz part 1. This is my first time using it. I didn't need a whole litre for one radiator so I made a quarter sized mixture of 250ml (containing 12.5ml part 1 as it takes 50ml per litre). I've got the radiator filled and capped off with the same white plastic caps used in the instruction video. I noticed that there is conflicting information between what's on the bottle and the instruction sheet that came with the kit. The instructions say leave for 6-12 hours but on the bottle it says do not leave for more than 6 hours? For now I'm going to aim for 6 hours to be safe but if anyone can clarify this for me in the mean time please let me know.


Ah I think I have misunderstood what's on the bottle. It does say "DO NOT LEAVE FOR MORE THAN 6 HOURS" but it's mentioned after the draining step, so I think it refers to not leaving the radiator for more than 6 hours without rinsing with water after draining, because it does say further up the bottle to leave for 6-12 hours just as it does in the instructions. It just wasn't fully clear to me at first what the bold red text was referring to but I think I understand now. So the only difference must be that this stuff is highly concentrated at 50ml/litre as opposed to 250ml/litre.


----------



## iamjanco

broodro0ster said:


> I don't think Biocide Exterme *shouldn't* be used. It's not safe for nickel and I haven't heard of the combo with inhibitor+ and biocide extreme. Just get biocide+ and inhibitor+. They are supposed to work together and can be dyed.


You probably meant "should" instead of "shouldn't," but what you said about nickel makes sense (thanks).


----------



## broodro0ster

iamjanco said:


> You probably meant "should" instead of "shouldn't," but what you said about nickel makes sense (thanks).


Sorry, I messed up with the double negotiation. But I think you understand. Use Biocide+ to mix with inhibitor+


----------



## Leonko

Mayhem said:


> *Mayhems Biocide and Inhibitor + is gathering pace as more and more people are starting to see how good this product really is and how far superior it is to any other coolant or premixed fluid on the market. How ever there is one problem ....... !!!!!!!! People are adding to much of it to there systems. 2 drops of each Biocide + and inhibitor + to 1 Ltr of fluid is more than enough. 4 Drops is taking the piss and any thing more is just plain mental. So please please please if you are using our new Biocide + and inhibitor plus Don't add more than 2 drops of each per 1 Ltr ..... MORE IS NOT BETTER !!! this stuff is Super strong out of the bottle. You don't need it.
> 
> Were still even learning how strong we made this stuff ....  (i think i may have gone a bit overboard).*


if i want to use Biocide and inhibitor, do i need to use it with water/distilled water only? what if i want to dye my system with nonstain red dye? or can i use it with X1 premix clear?


----------



## 414347

Leonko said:


> if i want to use Biocide and inhibitor, do i need to use it with water/distilled water only? what if i want to dye my system with nonstain red dye? or can i use it with X1 premix clear?


That's another benefit of the new Biocide Plus and Inhibitor Plus. Aside from the fact that can be used with mixed metals, it can also be used with dyes, oppose to Biocide Extreme you couldn't.

As far is adding anything else to already premixed X1!!.. X1 already have all the additives you will need but if you have a reason, I'm sure you could add very small drop of each but that would be overkill and once again "More doesn't mean its better"


----------



## skupples

x1 & distilled is all you need. Other people just like to go way above and beyond... anything from mayhem is already in that category.


----------



## Leonko

Thanks for asnwer. Is it the same for XT-1 Nuke ? according to this : https://www.overclock.net/forum/27786200-post16161.html it should be harmless to PETG.

I would like to finish my watercooling build, but i would rather wait for new coolants to arrive and then decide, cause it looks like they are coming soon.

What coolant are you mixing it with ?


----------



## skupples

Leonko said:


> Thanks for asnwer. Is it the same for XT-1 Nuke ? according to this : https://www.overclock.net/forum/27786200-post16161.html it should be harmless to PETG.
> 
> I would like to finish my watercooling build, but i would rather wait for new coolants to arrive and then decide, cause it looks like they are coming soon.
> 
> What coolant are you mixing it with ?


please note - They clearly stated the NEW nuke is PETG safe, and that the new nuke will only go out once current supplies are depleted.

IE : if you buy a bottle today from PPC (or whoever else is still in business) you've gotta 99.99% chance of getting the old stuff that isn't PETG safe.

On a side note - I've noticed a trend of first time (or new) watercooling enthusiasts to get overly caught up on dyes & coolants. Here's my advice. Spend more time obsessing over a properly clean loop, blocks, radiators, & fittings & you'll have a much better success rate, no matter what product you use. 

I'd stick to classic (and works stupidly well) X1 until the new Nuke comes out if you're using PETG. or the biocide/inibitor +. One, or the other, not both. X1, or the drops, & you'll be golden. 

I wouldn't recommend dyes for a first time user though based on how many horror stories end up being end user related. Learn how to properly clean your goods, & use the super effective & safe coolants / additives while you do so, then look into dyes next time around.


----------



## war4peace

broodro0ster said:


> Sorry, I messed up with the double *negotiation*. But I think you understand. Use Biocide+ to mix with inhibitor+


Never negotiate with more than one person at the time. You will be ripped off!


----------



## Gofspar

How does Pastel Extreme white concentrate differ from normal Pastel concentrates?


----------



## DaLiu

Mayhem said:


> 2 drops of each Biocide + and inhibitor + to 1 Ltr of fluid is more than enough. 4 Drops is taking the piss and any thing more is just plain mental. So please please please if you are using our new Biocide + and inhibitor plus Don't add more than 2 drops of each per 1 Ltr ..... MORE IS NOT BETTER !!! this stuff is Super strong out of the bottle. You don't need it.


I'm confused now, NewUser16 you confirmed to use 6 drops/litre of each Biocide and Inhibitor not long ago and now I see the post from Mayhem....


----------



## skupples

like he said, it's even more potent than they realized.


----------



## 414347

DaLiu said:


> I'm confused now, NewUser16 you confirmed to use 6 drops/litre of each Biocide and Inhibitor not long ago and now I see the post from Mayhem....


I I've been testing these 2 products for 14 months with a truly amazon results. Initially I have mixed 6 or 7 drops of each per 1L of Distilled water as I'm running my system under very heavy load none stop with multiple GPUs and overclocked 6950X and although if you have already mixed the ratio 6 drops of each per 1L like I suggested, you will be perfectly fine and it will not harm your system in any negative way whatsoever but there might be a small and more of a aesthetic issue to certain brands of acrylic water tanks and O-rings which btw. again aren’t effected other then aesthetically.

Due to high concentration of Biocide Plus & Inhibitor Plus you only need 2 drops of each and add single drop of each every 3 months and this ratio is very effective. You can still have up to 4 drops of each and even 6-7 without harming absolutely anything in your system and its been tested but that is overkill and here is what happens. 

If you add more than 4 drops like I did... 7 drops of each 14 months ago and you have reservoir thank .e.g. Bitspower, which have their threads on the inside oppose to many other brands e.g. EK have their threads outside, once that strong of a mixture gets between thread and I can assure you it will due to the res design, it pretty much sits there with no water movement and the O-ring that is between the bottom acrylic tube and D5 Mod Top adapter it’s just right there and not to mistake with other O-rings throughout the system. O-rings that are either in fittings or other parts of components that are more of a barrier between 2 parts have no issue with even very, very slow water flow, so in place like the bottom of reservoir threads you might see brown discoloration and its only small amount,it’s from Z-Tube O-ring ( happens ONLY if using anything beyond 4 drops of each Per 1L) 

That brown stain once gets there it’s not progressing, it stays that way for months and it just looks unpleasing and to some people especially newbie’s might be alert that something is wrong but the O-ring and acrylic is not effected at all. 

In fact, after 14 months I took the system apart and the O-ring does not loses either its elasticity, nor shape, its not effected in slightest and the brown stain that is ONLY visible on the acrylic thread comes off with single wipe of your finger, so it’s only small residue that its harmless. As far is watreblocks and nickle plating..I took the GPU's (3) and CPU block apart and it looked pretty much brand new, this product its very, very effective but again, more doesn’t mean better.

I have several systems that I use for testing and while the ratio amount of Biocide + & Inhibitor+ it’s important because this stuff its very powerful, If you already added more than 4 drops and you don't feel like changing water again, I can assure you, it won’t hurt anything, it’s just way overkill and btw. you might never see anything like I did and like I said earlier under certain circumstances you can use more than 2 drops but its not needed. 


FYI. I have been also in talks with Bitspower and they are working on redesigning their new Z-tube reservoirs with thread being on outside. I don't know if something similar was reported before or perhaps, maybe it was just timing and they want something new, different. 

Sorry for giving you wrong info earlier


----------



## DaLiu

No, i didn't started my build, and for me with one CPU and one GPU probably 2 drops of each will be more than enough. Thanks for the update!


----------



## Mayhem

iamjanco said:


> Thanks for that. Question: when you say "Mayhems Biocide and Inhibitor +" does that include a combination of Biocide Extreme and Inhibitor+, or just the Biocide+ and Inhibitor+? (e.g., can Biocide Extreme be used with Inhibitor+)?


*Biocide +* (not CU based and is Complete ground braking formulation made in house, No one in the world will know or knows how to make this and we are the "only" company in the world that makes it).

*Inhibitor +* (same as above)

*Nano-Dot + * Info TBA, Its a clear solution to be used with the above product that make Biocide + and Inhibitor + usable up to 5 years +, It does this by blocking invisible and visible light spectrum in a clear fluid. In other words try putting a laser light though it and be stopped dead. Any level of light will not pass though and its clear to the eye. It has its own inbuilt biocide that is never ending and is not liquid chem based, It also is not hydroscopic and also is self lubricating, meaning it will make your pumps run faster, better and last longer. It is also self positively charged and regulating and is also self PH balanced.This is still work in progress and we can only make small batches of it in house due to our limitations. This will not be cheap. Again this is a ground braking product. As my lab grows so we our releases.

*Biocide Extreme* is CU based with a PH balance included and some other chems, unlike other copying companies out there we do not just use cheap CU we actually use and add additives that helped it work. How ever this method is Old School and way out of date. It cannot be used in alu systems.

All new formulations made by Mayhems are now going to be using Mayhems "Biocide +" and "Inhibitor +" as there base products except the new Nano dot coolant we are working on and new pastel coolants we are working on.

We are also working on New CO2, 3D Printer and solar Power coolants again based on our new formulations.

I do not aim to stop inventing and creating.

X1 is being revamp'd to now Use these new formulations.

XT-1 Is now PETG Safe (it has some thing we do to it, but will not say how it works or how we do it) How ever it stops PETG from degrading, were as any other Ethereline Glycol based product will damage your PETG tubing over time. Mayhems is the first and only company who will admit to issues and who actually will fix them. (this will be rolled out once our stock of Current XT-Nuke is gone.)

We do not copy, We do not fill you fill of BS Marketing. We simply do what we need to be the best .... "full stop".

I do not aim to be NO:1 .... There simply is no competition! end off.

Expect some new Coolants to be released from companies in the USA and Germany to be using these new formulas as we are going to be OEM'ing these products out.

Now you can see why i'm not around much . Im to busy doing my job.


----------



## skupples

OEM'ing coolants? awesome. Props Mayhem's. It's been fun watching you grow.


----------



## iamjanco

Thanks for the info. I went ahead and ordered two one liter bottles of clear XT-1 Nuke from PPCS (enough for eight liters of coolant). If it's been on their shelves for a while, it'll still work for my use case, as I don't have a need for colored coolant, nor do I use PETG, and the only flex tubing I use is ZMT.


----------



## Mayhem

I know some XT-1 Nuke that was sent over to PPC some user have been complaining about it being very yellow, which is normal but its more yellow then normal. We will be rectifying this. Its not an issue just is yellow in concentrate for.


----------



## DaLiu

Anybody can explain the benefits of using XT-1 Nuke Clear vs pure distilled water + Biocide+ and Inhibitor+? I would like to know the difference, why would you go on XT-1 Nuke Clear instead of pure distilled water (with Biocide and Inhibitor)?


----------



## crafty615

Mayhem said:


> X1 is being revamp'd to now Use these new formulations.
> 
> XT-1 Is now PETG Safe (it has some thing we do to it, but will not say how it works or how we do it) How ever it stops PETG from degrading, were as any other Ethereline Glycol based product will damage your PETG tubing over time. Mayhems is the first and only company who will admit to issues and who actually will fix them. (this will be rolled out once our stock of Current XT-Nuke is gone.)


So is the only difference between the current XT-1 Nuke and the new one that it is PETG safe? I use acrylic and just bought some XT-1 Nuke UV Blue a couple months ago that I will be using soon and would like to know if upgrading to the new stuff when it comes out is worth it. The price of the coolant is not very high (these were like $5 a bottle) so that's not an issue but if it's basically the same stuff then I won't bother.


----------



## captminer

@Mayhem please check pm , awaiting reply

TIA


----------



## Mayhem

Got sick of people copying my work so this was designed by myself a long time back and was supposed to be working with a company who simply have messed me around and taken my ideas so here you go anyway.











I have working proto types the rad is 60mm wide inc fans and side panels easily come off. It takes 4 screws to fit on any system any size 240, 360, 480 ect ect. Side panels ive been working on can use a LCD screen, RGB screen Is wifi and blue tooth and can incorporate a digital sensor into the design. Its a stand alone system and run of a 5v USB line to run all the wifi, bluetooth and LCD / RGB and would be fully controllable though its own web interface.

Im not going to show my proto type as they have changed a bit, i cannot afford to make them on mass and yes when i was chatting before about making a 3d printed working rad .... Know you know why! .. and yes it does work for proto typing only. I 3d Printed around the 2 x 20mm thick cores and created a fully function rads. They do need more work but i simply do not have the time any more.


----------



## skupples

slick idea, i'm curious to see who ripped it off.


----------



## Mayhem

I had this idea over 8 years ago + and only had time to play over the last 2 years and only last year started to work on it by my self. Paul from XSPC knows about this as do many other poeple in this industry , I registered the copy right in the UK for the 2d and 3d design allready and have files with my solicitor for it as well. All thks goes to XSPC for this  our little mishap in the past taught me a lot.

P.s Im not saying any ones directly copied my work, Im now just posting this so you know if any one does copy  well **** happens.


----------



## skupples

Can't lie, as a non-invested not-partner, it's been inspirational & enthralling to watch your company grow over the last... decade now?!


----------



## Mayhem

A little update had to pull all the XT-1 Nuke 250ml "Clear" versions that have the Petg blocker in them. The fluid colour has turned a little orange in concentrated colour but obv this is not what you expect from our products. So were revamping it a little more, all the colours and variants are perfectly fine but would love clear to be as near to clear as possible. If any one has this issue please contact me via support and we will replace the fluid free of charge as per the norm. As said there its just a colour shift not a actual problem and it works as expected and it may be down to us making it very very strong  haha need to stop doing that.


----------



## iamjanco

Mayhem said:


> A little update had to pull all the XT-1 Nuke 250ml "Clear" versions that have the Petg blocker in them. The fluid colour has turned a little orange in concentrated colour but obv this is not what you expect from our products. So were revamping it a little more, all the colours and variants are perfectly fine but would love clear to be as near to clear as possible. If any one has this issue please contact me via support and we will replace the fluid free of charge as per the norm. As said there its just a colour shift not a actual problem and it works as expected and it may be down to us making it very very strong  haha need to stop doing that.


Thanks for the notice. Does this also affect the larger size bottles? Either way, I'll let you know when I'm ready to use the two one liter bottles I just received from PPCS.


----------



## Mayhem

No just the 250ml as we only made them the other week.


----------



## skupples

yay, we can all sing kumbaya.


----------



## dwolvin

Very cool Mayhem! What sizes are you thinking, and will the fans be swappable / replaceable?


----------



## Zammin

Can anyone confirm that there is supposed to be multiple variants of Blitz Part 1? Most places selling it, including the place I purchased from say that the 250ml dilutes into 1L of fluid and to leave for 6-12 hours, however my kit says 50ml dilutes to 1L of fluid and leave for 6-12 hours, I also found this scan of an instruction sheet online that says 50ml dilutes to 1L of fluid and to shake the radiator every 10 mins for 2 hours and then drain: https://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/pdf/CS1.pdf

I find it strange that there are at least 3 different sets of instructions and at least 2 mix ratios out there.

I have finished using Blitz Part 1 on four of my radiators (all brand new and from 3 different manufacturers) following the instructions that came with my kit and while the fluid that came out after 12 hours was blue-ish I didn't get any visible debris. I'm hoping it's just a matter of the radiators not being that dirty.


----------



## iamjanco

Zammin said:


> Can anyone confirm that there is supposed to be multiple variants of Blitz Part 1? Most places selling it, including the place I purchased from say that the 250ml dilutes into 1L of fluid and to leave for 6-12 hours, however my kit says 50ml dilutes to 1L of fluid and leave for 6-12 hours, I also found this scan of an instruction sheet online that says 50ml dilutes to 1L of fluid and to shake the radiator every 10 mins for 2 hours and then drain: https://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/pdf/CS1.pdf
> 
> I find it strange that there are at least 3 different sets of instructions and at least 2 mix ratios out there.
> 
> I have finished using Blitz Part 1 on four of my radiators (all brand new and from 3 different manufacturers) following the instructions that came with my kit and while the fluid that came out after 12 hours was blue-ish I didn't get any visible debris. I'm hoping it's just a matter of the radiators not being that dirty.


My instructions say 250ml dilutes into one liter also. Who did you get the kit from? I'd wait on Mayhems to chime in to see if they ever shipped kits with instructions that match those you received.

That said, the instructions you linked to at fcpu were made in 2014. Could be those are outdated as well since kits currently ship with litmus test strips:









That's from the properties for that document. The printed instructions I received with my kits are dated Jan 2016.


----------



## skupples

haven't they redone the stuff & it's now much more potent than it use to be?

is frozencpu done with their whole dysfunction episode?

PPC takes the take for me due to all ground shipping being overnight due to being in the same state, but FCPU always had a much more professional website. PPC's now not so new site still runs like arse.


----------



## iamjanco

skupples said:


> haven't they redone the stuff & it's now much more potent than it use to be?
> 
> is frozencpu done with their whole dysfunction episode?
> 
> PPC takes the take for me due to all ground shipping being overnight due to being in the same state, but FCPU always had a much more professional website. PPC's now not so new site still runs like arse.


Maybe the better question to ask is how many different versions of the kit might still be sitting on some vendor's shelves (I imagine Mayhem's might chime in about that as well)? I could see that being a possibility with a vendor like FCPU, given its history. 

As for FCPU itself, it's supposed to be under new management, but bad feelings about what happened a few years back might still linger here and there. I haven't ordered anything from them since about 2004, so I couldn't say for sure myself. As a web developer though, I will say both they and PPCS do need to revamp their storefronts if they want to remain viable online shopping choices into the future.


----------



## skupples

very true - I know this much, PPC was sold out around christmas time. 

I only ever ordered from FCPU when PPC didn't have it, as their shipping takes a week, and starts at 2-3x the price - 

i keep putting off my rebuild simply because I don't wanna setup an external loop to figure out which one of the pumps in my MCP35x2 died.


----------



## Zammin

iamjanco said:


> My instructions say 250ml dilutes into one liter also. Who did you get the kit from? I'd wait on Mayhems to chime in to see if they ever shipped kits with instructions that match those you received.
> 
> That said, the instructions you linked to at fcpu were made in 2014. Could be those are outdated as well since kits currently ship with litmus test strips:
> 
> View attachment 246104
> 
> 
> That's from the properties for that document. The printed instructions I received with my kits are dated Jan 2016.


I purchased from Singularity Computers here in Australia, they are the primary reseller of Mayhems products here and the only crowd that stocks the full Blitz Kits in Aus.

Yeah the scan on Frozen CPU is old, I just thought it was worth linking. If it is in fact more potent now then that's great. I did post about it a few pages back and there were some guesses about it being stronger now but not 100% sure.

I've already flushed my rads with Part 1 but I followed the instructions that came with my kit properly so I should be okay, I just thought it was odd that all the info I could find online (save for that Frozen CPU link) including the seller I purchased from and the Mayhems website have "250ml dilutes to 1L" in the description and I couldn't find any examples of my instructions anywhere. I'm not sure if I got new, more potent stuff (probably the most likely) or some older version. Also not sure whether to be glad or concerned that I didn't get any visible debris out of the Part 1 when I drained it.

Hoping Michael sees this and can clarify. Cheers.


----------



## 414347

iamjanco said:


> Maybe the better question to ask is how many different versions of the kit might still be sitting on some vendor's shelves (I imagine Mayhem's might chime in about that as well)? I could see that being a possibility with a vendor like FCPU, given its history.
> 
> As for FCPU itself, it's supposed to be under new management, but bad feelings about what happened a few years back might still linger here and there. I haven't ordered anything from them since about 2004, so I couldn't say for sure myself. As a web developer though, I will say both they and PPCS do need to revamp their storefronts if they want to remain viable online shopping choices into the future.


Just my input...

For the past several years I’ve been getting stuff from PPCS and never had any issues but recently, about 4 weeks ago I needed something that no one else had, not even manufacturer except FrozenCPU, these items were worth around $700US.

I was pleasantly surprised, not only with their quick email responses to my inquiries but after placing the order it took only 1.5 days for the delivery to arrived to my door steps and keep in mind, I'm in Canada Ontario. 

I guess they are trying to get back on their feet and do the right thing, this was good experience for me and I thing they deserve second chance, especially if the business is under new management.


----------



## iamjanco

NewUser16 said:


> Just my input...
> 
> For the past several years I’ve been getting stuff from PPCS and never had any issues but recently, about 4 weeks ago I needed something that no one else had, not even manufacturer except FrozenCPU, these items were worth around $700US.
> 
> I was pleasantly surprised, not only with their quick email responses to my inquiries but after placing the order it took only 1.5 days for the delivery to arrived to my door steps and keep in mind, I'm in Canada Ontario.
> 
> I guess they are trying to get back on their feet and do the right thing, this was good experience for me and I thing they deserve second chance, especially if the business is under new management.


Yeah, I wouldn't argue that point myself, and would order from them if I needed something they had or offered the best price for (including shipping). They're pretty much in my neighborhood so-to-speak, as is ModMyMods. I simply don't order from them much because of the same reasons I don't order much from B&H. I live in NY.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

iamjanco said:


> NewUser16 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just my input...
> 
> For the past several years I’ve been getting stuff from PPCS and never had any issues but recently, about 4 weeks ago I needed something that no one else had, not even manufacturer except FrozenCPU, these items were worth around $700US.
> 
> I was pleasantly surprised, not only with their quick email responses to my inquiries but after placing the order it took only 1.5 days for the delivery to arrived to my door steps and keep in mind, I'm in Canada Ontario.
> 
> I guess they are trying to get back on their feet and do the right thing, this was good experience for me and I thing they deserve second chance, especially if the business is under new management.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I wouldn't argue that point myself, and would order from them if I needed something they had or offered the best price for (including shipping). They're pretty much in my neighborhood so-to-speak, as is ModMyMods. I simply don't order from them much because of the same reasons I don't order much from B&H. I live in NY.
Click to expand...

EDIT: NEVER MIND FOR SOME REASON MY BRAIN THOUGH OF ANOTHER ETAILER (beginning with "F" who shall not be named)


----------



## skupples

I believe this has been summed up pretty well over on youtube, just look for a video that is newer than 2015, cuz it kept going from what I understand.


----------



## OutlawII

We need more watercooling parts stores. Iam currently waiting on some HW labs white rads to come back in stock last things i need for my build. PPCS is the only store that i can find them at


----------



## skupples

I always assumed it as more like a supply issue than a distribution issue. I think PPC even told me that during an in store pickup. 

- what’s coming outta my raps on a SysPrep flush. Remember - 5 years zero coolant swaps.


----------



## 414347

skupples said:


> I always assumed it as more like a supply issue than a distribution issue. I think PPC even told me that during an in store pickup.
> 
> - what’s coming outta my raps on a SysPrep flush. Remember - 5 years zero coolant swaps.


Hmmm,,what is that, is that a bad or good thing happening in that reservoir 


Ooooo just got it (I guess I had brain freeze)


----------



## skupples

Bad if it wasn’t intentional.


----------



## ckoons1

*Mayhems blitz 2*

Can mayhems blitz 2 clean this ?


----------



## skupples

Is blitz acrylic safe? If no, then no. 

Do not quote me - but I thought the main focus of blitz is cleaning radiators. 

IF I remember correctly - you could break down the block & inspect it for any needed cleaning. Blocks are usually pretty damn clean. I always just flush them with distilled. 

If it’s used - inspect the fins. See if they’re clogged. If so, get a brush and use a little blitz.


----------



## KCDC

ckoons1 said:


> Can mayhems blitz 2 clean this ?





skupples said:


> Is blitz acrylic safe? If no, then no.
> 
> Do not quote me - but I thought the main focus of blitz is cleaning radiators.
> 
> IF I remember correctly - you could break down the block & inspect it for any needed cleaning. Blocks are usually pretty damn clean. I always just flush them with distilled.
> 
> If it’s used - inspect the fins. See if they’re clogged. If so, get a brush and use a little blitz.





Blitz 1 is just for rads,


Blitz 2 I've used more than once on existing loops with acrylic blocks, it's safe for that.


----------



## ckoons1

So blitz 2 can get this clean ?


----------



## KCDC

ckoons1 said:


> So blitz 2 can get this clean ?



Blitz 2 yes.


----------



## ckoons1

Cool thank you


----------



## skupples

I guess I’m the only one that takes using abrasives conservatively.


----------



## OutlawII

Any wisdom on using Mayhems pastel?


----------



## KCDC

skupples said:


> I guess I’m the only one that takes using abrasives conservatively.



Blitz 2 is a strong detergent that doesn't have any abrasives or acids and is safe for using in an existing loop. 



Blitz 1 is made up of acids that over time breaks down whatever crap is in your rads and is meant only for copper and brass rads. I've used it a few times and did a decent job on getting out leftover dye, but not all of it. It's a good starting point, but I still use further steps after that.


----------



## broodro0ster

OutlawII said:


> Any wisdom on using Mayhems pastel?


I've running it for almost 1 month right now and so far so good. 
I've done a lot of research before I used it and it's best to clean the radiators with Blitz part 1 first and then do the whole loop with Blitz part 2. You want your loop as clean as possible before using this stuff. And if you do it right, you shouldn't have any problems to run this fluid for 2 years.


----------



## war4peace

I can't find Mayhems Pastel red anymore, is it retired? I am thinking of using Mayhems X1 Blood Red instead.


----------



## broodro0ster

war4peace said:


> I can't find Mayhems Pastel red anymore, is it retired? I am thinking of using Mayhems X1 Blood Red instead.


Mayhem is still selling it: https://www.mayhems.net/collections/pastel-concentrate-250ml/products/pastel-red-250ml


----------



## war4peace

Sorry, forgot to mention I would rather have the 1000ml bottles, pre-made, rather than the concentrate.


----------



## broodro0ster

war4peace said:


> Sorry, forgot to mention I would rather have the 1000ml bottles, pre-made, rather than the concentrate.


https://www.mayhems.net/collections/pastel-pre-mix-1ltr/products/pastel-red-1ltr


----------



## war4peace

I am stoopid, I swear I hadn't seen it.
I'll ask my local shop to order it for me.


----------



## 414347

The other day I was talking to my son on my cell and while I was talking I was looking for my cell all over my place....now.. that's DDDDD couldn't stop laughing


----------



## devilhead

hi, it was some discount code (mayhems store) here, anyone remember? ✌
tested - May25, no go


----------



## 414347

devilhead said:


> hi, it was some discount code (mayhems store) here, anyone remember? ✌
> tested - May25, no go


The 15% discount is gone since 2 days ago


----------



## skupples

I totally forgot that you need like 4x bottles of x1 per gallon, also

I just came into a giant puddle on the floor - guess it's time to switch over to the new drops since 90% of my coolant was lost. 

Glad I didn't trust my leak testing on this old radiator too, as I could'a nuked my whole system if it would'a ended up in the top, instead of the bottom.

Weird thing is, it seems one of the channels busted deep inside the radiator.  I think it's the same radiator that caused the weird 300mm of water gulp. 

-theory, due to my system only running on one of two pumps for a year, with ancient coolant, one of the channels sprang a small leak, then clogged? idk... := I just remember this weird gooey rust oozing out of the fins during original breakdown.


----------



## BradleyW

Perhaps not specifically the correct place to ask this, but is it normal for the air to be cold as it comes out of my radiators? I use a 360 + 420 Rad setup for the 9900K. It is a hot running chip as I'm sure you're all aware. The Rad's do use a low FPI design so perhaps I'm shifting heat before it has time to settle.


----------



## skupples

it's a dense chip, but maybe you've just got enough redundancy. I've only got my 9700k under water right now, & my radiator air is cool tool.

specially compared how it was last - cpu, mem, chip, vrm, 3x titans, 3930k. XD

we're just producing way less heat than we used to. Even if it is a "dense chip that's hard to cool" or whatever people say.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
It's usually only 2-3c difference from ambient 
Most the heat comes off the gpu's/ mother board/ hard drives....
That's why I always make rads intake better 2-3c that a lot more 
Cases are open in the back for a good reason.


----------



## 414347

BradleyW said:


> Perhaps not specifically the correct place to ask this, but is it normal for the air to be cold as it comes out of my radiators? I use a 360 + 420 Rad setup for the 9900K. It is a hot running chip as I'm sure you're all aware. The Rad's do use a low FPI design so perhaps I'm shifting heat before it has time to settle.


If you cooling only that CPU with these 2 rads.. that's pretty much passive cooling, so even on full load you might not feel warm air, which is a good thing 
Not to brag but I have 2x 480 cooling 6950X OC to 4.5, I know its overkill just for single CPU but my temps are absolutely awesome and its pretty much passive cooling as well, I love silence and when fans do come on the air feels pretty much cold.


----------



## BradleyW

Despite the cool air, I still hit 90c under AVX small FFT @ 5GHz HT 1.35v. There's no air in the loop and the block has been installed correctly. 

However in games I can run fans ultra low on only 1 radiator. For instance AC: Odyssey uses AVX and the CPU runs between 45 to 55c with a peak of 60c.

I use the EK Supremacy CPU block and I've had this years for my old 3930K.
I installed the water jet plate for socket 1150.


----------



## Zammin

BradleyW said:


> Despite the cool air, I still hit 90c under AVX small FFT @ 5GHz HT 1.35v. There's no air in the loop and the block has been installed correctly.
> 
> However in games I can run fans ultra low on only 1 radiator. For instance AC: Odyssey uses AVX and the CPU runs between 45 to 55c with a peak of 60c.
> 
> I use the EK Supremacy CPU block and I've had this years for my old 3930K.
> I installed the water jet plate for socket 1150.


What's your water temp after say 1 hour of AVX stressing? Have you tried other stress tests like RealBench or AIDA64?

I might be wrong but from my understanding Prime95 AVX will really punish a 9900k, I recall a post on the ROG forum where [email protected] said in his testing it's not uncommon for 9900k's to hit 100C core temp in Prime95 AVX small fft even when stock without custom watercooling loops. If that's true then 90C on custom water @ 5Ghz and 1.35V might be about right for that test.

I have a big air cooler on mine (BeQuiet Dark Rock 4 Pro) temporarily until I get it under water and it hits 100C for a moment when starting AIDA64s stress test, it's not overclocked either. I'm not keen to try P95 AVX small fft after seeing that lol.


----------



## war4peace

BradleyW said:


> Despite the cool air, I still hit 90c under AVX small FFT @ 5GHz HT 1.35v. There's no air in the loop and the block has been installed correctly.
> 
> However in games I can run fans ultra low on only 1 radiator. For instance AC: Odyssey uses AVX and the CPU runs between 45 to 55c with a peak of 60c.
> 
> I use the EK Supremacy CPU block and I've had this years for my old 3930K.
> I installed the water jet plate for socket 1150.


It's expected.
When testing waterblocks, the most important metric is the delta T between the liquid temperature and the CPU temperature. In my case, when benchmarking under AVX small FFT @ 4.25 GHz (it's a Broadwell 6800K), the Delta T is 45.5 degrees Celsius, che CPU reaching 70 Degrees Celsius under an ambient of 25 degrees Celsius, with a MoRa 420 installed outside the case. It's just a matter of small die giving up a lot of heat.


----------



## Rainmaker91

I'm at a fork in the road with my builds, and figured I would ask this good community what you all would do in my place.

I'm about to clean out a few radiators (I have 2 builds going at the same time) using Blitz part 1. A couple of them needs to be stripped and repainted, but freshly painted radiators can be fairly fragile. Would you guys use Blitz part 1 after stripping them (before painting) or do it after painting them to avaoid paint particulate in the chambers?

Also, can I mix different batches of Blitz 1 with each other or do I need to keep them seperate? I had to order another kit due to the sheer volume of fluid involved in this, so it would be nice to know considering the message early on at least was to always use the mixing procedure emntioned in the instructions in each kit (and it may vary between batches).

Can't wait to get these things up and running again.


----------



## 414347

Rainmaker91 said:


> I'm at a fork in the road with my builds, and figured I would ask this good community what you all would do in my place.
> 
> I'm about to clean out a few radiators (I have 2 builds going at the same time) using Blitz part 1. A couple of them needs to be stripped and repainted, but freshly painted radiators can be fairly fragile. Would you guys use Blitz part 1 after stripping them (before painting) or do it after painting them to avaoid paint particulate in the chambers?
> 
> Also, can I mix different batches of Blitz 1 with each other or do I need to keep them seperate? I had to order another kit due to the sheer volume of fluid involved in this, so it would be nice to know considering the message early on at least was to always use the mixing procedure emntioned in the instructions in each kit (and it may vary between batches).
> 
> Can't wait to get these things up and running again.


I would run Blitz first if you want to avoid any spills, even if you careful, its easy a make a mess out of single drop with this stuff, especially on fresh paint and there is a reason you painting right 

Blitz #1 its strong acid solution, it really doesn't degrade that quickly unless it has been open for a long time and I mean year or 2 and was exposed to direct light I don't see why you can't mix them together.


----------



## OutlawII

Just wanted to give a shout to the Mayhems boys got my pastel green put in my new loop last weekend and it looks sick!! Thanks for making such great products


----------



## 414347

OutlawII said:


> Just wanted to give a shout to the Mayhems boys got my pastel green put in my new loop last weekend and it looks sick!! Thanks for making such great products


You can't just not show off, take few pics


----------



## OutlawII

NewUser16 said:


> You can't just not show off, take few pics



Im at work bro check out my avatar thats it.


----------



## 414347

OutlawII said:


> Im at work bro check out my avatar thats it.


avatar shows nothing. Green can have different shades and reflections that's why there is a green and then there is a true green that will make you go Wow!! but that's OK no big deal


----------



## Rainmaker91

NewUser16 said:


> I would run Blitz first if you want to avoid any spills, even if you careful, its easy a make a mess out of single drop with this stuff, especially on fresh paint and there is a reason you painting right
> 
> Blitz #1 its strong acid solution, it really doesn't degrade that quickly unless it has been open for a long time and I mean year or 2 and was exposed to direct light I don't see why you can't mix them together.


See, that was what I was thinking of doing. I have seen radiators with factory powder coating get stripped due to impropper handling of Blitz 1, so knowing how harsh it can be and how easy it is to spill a tiny bit I figured it would do the cleaning before painting it.


----------



## Zammin

As long as you wipe it up straight away Blitz Part 1 shouldn't hurt your radiator's paint. I spilled a bit on almost all my rads when filling, and I just wiped it away with a damp cloth each time and the paint is totally fine.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Zammin said:


> As long as you wipe it up straight away Blitz Part 1 shouldn't hurt your radiator's paint. I spilled a bit on almost all my rads when filling, and I just wiped it away with a damp cloth each time and the paint is totally fine.


Fair enough, but we are talking about non cured rattlecan paint here. Not whatever factory paint that radiators come with. I am not overly concerned for the rads that I have that will not be repainted, but for the ones that will be stripped down and painted anyways I don't really want to take the chance to strip it all off with the first cleaning. The reason why I was asking however was because I know there is a marginal risk that some paint may enter the chambers of the radiator in the painting process so with that in mind cleaning them afterwards would be safer as long as the paint can actually handle the acid.


----------



## Zammin

Rainmaker91 said:


> Fair enough, but we are talking about non cured rattlecan paint here. Not whatever factory paint that radiators come with. I am not overly concerned for the rads that I have that will not be repainted, but for the ones that will be stripped down and painted anyways I don't really want to take the chance to strip it all off with the first cleaning. The reason why I was asking however was because I know there is a marginal risk that some paint may enter the chambers of the radiator in the painting process so with that in mind cleaning them afterwards would be safer as long as the paint can actually handle the acid.


Oh right, fair enough yeah I wouldn't take the risk on non-cured spray paint either.


----------



## war4peace

Rainmaker91 said:


> I know there is a marginal risk that some paint may enter the chambers of the radiator in the painting process


I don't see how, as long as you use G1/4 plugs.
Related: will you also paint the radiator fins? I am going to leave them as they are, because there's a risk for the paint to clog the spaces between fins.


----------



## skupples

painting the fins seems like a bad idea without clogging the way through, just from a dissipation standpoint.


----------



## Rainmaker91

war4peace said:


> I don't see how, as long as you use G1/4 plugs.
> Related: will you also paint the radiator fins? I am going to leave them as they are, because there's a risk for the paint to clog the spaces between fins.


I will probably use those blue rubber caps that come with radiators these days as using g1/4" blind plugs never really lead to a good result (the paint sticks to the fittings and you are left with a patchy paint job when they come off).



skupples said:


> painting the fins seems like a bad idea without clogging the way through, just from a dissipation standpoint.


As for the fins, I will probably leave them as they are, though a short thin burst of paint over them doesn't really hurt all that much and clogging is a non issue if you know what you are doing. These rads have been though a lot of "makeovers" over the years, some before I bought them and some of them were me trying to fix the previous owners botched jobs and some were me trying to fix my own botched makeover of them. They are entirely watertight and cool really well though so I want to give them the appearance thy deserve rather than just leaving them as they are now.


----------



## broodro0ster

Don't paint the fins since it limits heat transfers. Just put some paper over fins and plug the threads.


----------



## Barefooter

Rainmaker91 said:


> I will probably use those blue rubber caps that come with radiators these days as using g1/4" blind plugs never really lead to a good result (the paint sticks to the fittings and you are left with a patchy paint job when they come off).
> 
> 
> 
> As for the fins, I will probably leave them as they are, though a short thin burst of paint over them doesn't really hurt all that much and clogging is a non issue if you know what you are doing. These rads have been though a lot of "makeovers" over the years, some before I bought them and some of them were me trying to fix the previous owners botched jobs and some were me trying to fix my own botched makeover of them. They are entirely watertight and cool really well though so I want to give them the appearance thy deserve rather than just leaving them as they are now.


I would use the Blitz Part 1 before painting the radiators. The Blitz Part 1 can be wiped off with a damp cloth, but can still leave a slight stain, so best to paint them afterwards. For sure you should have plugs in all the ports.

Also painting the fins won't really make any difference in the cooling ability unless you go crazy and it's dripping with paint. I saw a review BundyMan did several years back when he was testing the XSPC AX360 radiators. XSPC used to sell a silver version not sure if they still do, but it was basically the aluminum shell with an unpainted core.

He tested the radiator stock, then painted then entire radiator including the fins, and then retested... it made zero difference. I looked for that post a while back but was not able to find it, so not going to try again today. Just keep the fin painting light.


----------



## BradleyW

broodro0ster said:


> Don't paint the fins since it limits heat transfers. Just put some paper over fins and plug the threads.


A very light misting of paint on the fins won't reduce the thermal transfer rate so it is an option, but personally I'd also cover the fins with paper prior to spraying.


----------



## Zammin

Well it seems my suspicions may have been right. I thought it didn't seem right that the Mayhems Part 1 I was using wasn't getting any debris out of my radiators. The fluid just came out a little blue. It was mixed to the correct ratio, left in the radiator for 12 hours, drained and flushed/rinsed very thoroughly. All by the instructions.

I built my loop, ran distilled water in the system for 8 hours and checked the PH level, it was right on 7 (instructions say the ideal range is between 6 and 8). I added my Pastel UV Green to the system and it all looked great... For about 2-3 hours. I come back a couple hours later to find little bits of black (presumably paint) fibers stuck in my GPU block.. I guess my radiators weren't entirely clean even after using Blitz Part 1. This is very annoying after spending all this time trying to do everything right and by the book. The only choices I have now are to just live with it or drain the system, disassemble the blocks and clean them again and buy more concentrate and try again. The latter will cost me another $42 and won't guarantee that the problem won't repeat itself..

I was a bit suspicious about my Blitz Kit's effectiveness after almost nothing came out of the 5 radiators I cleaned with it, I sent an email to Mayhems support a week ago to ask about it but Michael must be away right now or something because I didn't get a reply and I don't think he's been on here lately.

For the record the Blitz Kit I received was the version that mixes 50ml of Part 1 with 950ml of fluid, which is not listed online as far as I can see.

I am hoping that the debris will break down after some time and dislodge itself but that is very wishful thinking..


----------



## 414347

Zammin said:


> Well it seems my suspicions may have been right. I thought it didn't seem right that the Mayhems Part 1 I was using wasn't getting any debris out of my radiators. The fluid just came out a little blue. It was mixed to the correct ratio, left in the radiator for 12 hours, drained and flushed/rinsed very thoroughly. All by the instructions.
> 
> I built my loop, ran distilled water in the system for 8 hours and checked the PH level, it was right on 7 (instructions say the ideal range is between 6 and 8). I added my Pastel UV Green to the system and it all looked great... For about 2-3 hours. I come back a couple hours later to find little bits of black (presumably paint) fibers stuck in my GPU block.. I guess my radiators weren't entirely clean even after using Blitz Part 1. This is very annoying after spending all this time trying to do everything right and by the book. The only choices I have now are to just live with it or drain the system, disassemble the blocks and clean them again and buy more concentrate and try again. The latter will cost me another $42..
> 
> I was a bit suspicious about my Blitz Kit after almost nothing came out of the 5 radiators I cleaned with it, I sent an email to Mayhems support a week ago to ask about it but Michael must be away or something because I didn't get a reply and I don't think he's been on here lately.
> 
> For the record the Blitz Kit I received was the version that mixes 50ml of Part 1 with 950ml of fluid, which is not listed online as far as I can see.


When you empty blitz #1 and you filled with Distill did you give a good shake a real good shake every time you changed Distilled. Anything that was left in there will get trapped and it won’t find easy way out the ports, Blitz will loosen all up but I know from my own experience I had to shake my rads several times and each time I had black crap in them and I have Hardware labs, one of the cleanest rads so I can imagine other brands.


----------



## Zammin

NewUser16 said:


> When you empty blitz #1 and you filled with Distill did you give a good shake a real good shake every time you changed Distilled. Anything that was left in there will get trapped and it won’t find easy way out the ports, Blitz will loosen all up but I know from my own experience I had to shake my rads several times and each time I had black crap in them and I have Hardware labs, one of the cleanest rads so I can imagine other brands.


Yep did this many, many times on each radiator. When I used to clean my rads with distilled white vinegar I would get debris out of them but I didn't really get anything out with blitz. I thought maybe they weren't that dirty but it seems that I may have been wrong.


----------



## 414347

Zammin said:


> Yep did this many, many times on each radiator. When I used to clean my rads with distilled white vinegar I would get debris out of them but I didn't really get anything out with blitz. I thought maybe they weren't that dirty but it seems that I may have been wrong.


Yes that doesn't sound like everything was out of your system. I presume your blocks were clean and you are positive nothing was in them prior to your putting things together. Maybe something with Blitz..But that’s acid it doesn’t go bad, hard to tell. 

Blitz is acid solution and it helps to remove any crap that is stuck to your inner rad after manufacturing that water or soap would loosen up, it sounds like it didn't degreased all of it, or like I said if your blocks weren't new perhaps maybe something was in them to begin with. 

You're not mentioning if the color has shifted or there is only issue with the flake particles in your GPU block. Also, could be flake of paint from either fitting or other component in your loop that just got lose and have been recirculated in the loop


----------



## broodro0ster

Zammin said:


> Well it seems my suspicions may have been right. I thought it didn't seem right that the Mayhems Part 1 I was using wasn't getting any debris out of my radiators. The fluid just came out a little blue. It was mixed to the correct ratio, left in the radiator for 12 hours, drained and flushed/rinsed very thoroughly. All by the instructions.
> 
> I built my loop, ran distilled water in the system for 8 hours and checked the PH level, it was right on 7 (instructions say the ideal range is between 6 and 8). I added my Pastel UV Green to the system and it all looked great... For about 2-3 hours. I come back a couple hours later to find little bits of black (presumably paint) fibers stuck in my GPU block.. I guess my radiators weren't entirely clean even after using Blitz Part 1. This is very annoying after spending all this time trying to do everything right and by the book. The only choices I have now are to just live with it or drain the system, disassemble the blocks and clean them again and buy more concentrate and try again. The latter will cost me another $42 and won't guarantee that the problem won't repeat itself..
> 
> I was a bit suspicious about my Blitz Kit's effectiveness after almost nothing came out of the 5 radiators I cleaned with it, I sent an email to Mayhems support a week ago to ask about it but Michael must be away right now or something because I didn't get a reply and I don't think he's been on here lately.
> 
> For the record the Blitz Kit I received was the version that mixes 50ml of Part 1 with 950ml of fluid, which is not listed online as far as I can see.
> 
> I am hoping that the debris will break down after some time and dislodge itself but that is very wishful thinking..


Did you run Blitz part 2 (preferably with a filter before the first block in the loop) in the loop after doing the rads with part 1?
I rebuild my system with hardline and pastel 5 weeks ago and yesterday I drained my loop to add my new GPU to the loop and everything was spotless.

And there no need to buy new fluid. Just drain it in a container and run it through a coffee filter. Then reuse it


----------



## skupples

NewUser16 said:


> Yes that doesn't sound like everything was out of your system. I presume your blocks were clean and you are positive nothing was in them prior to your putting things together. Maybe something with Blitz..But that’s acid it doesn’t go bad, hard to tell.
> 
> Blitz is acid solution and it helps to remove any crap that is stuck to your inner rad after manufacturing that water or soap would loosen up, it sounds like it didn't degreased all of it, or like I said if your blocks weren't new perhaps maybe something was in them to begin with.
> 
> You're not mentioning if the color has shifted or there is only issue with the flake particles in your GPU block. Also, could be flake of paint from either fitting or other component in your loop that just got lose and have been recirculated in the loop


this is why I have Alphacool's in-res bubble buster thingy - it catches those flakes that could possibly get caught in the block. The whole Aquacomputer in-line filter thing is just too much for me. It's never been necessary for me, however I don't run colors & I understand the extreme's y'all gotta go thru to prevent colorshift.


----------



## Zammin

NewUser16 said:


> Yes that doesn't sound like everything was out of your system. I presume your blocks were clean and you are positive nothing was in them prior to your putting things together. Maybe something with Blitz..But that’s acid it doesn’t go bad, hard to tell.
> 
> Blitz is acid solution and it helps to remove any crap that is stuck to your inner rad after manufacturing that water or soap would loosen up, it sounds like it didn't degreased all of it, or like I said if your blocks weren't new perhaps maybe something was in them to begin with.
> 
> You're not mentioning if the color has shifted or there is only issue with the flake particles in your GPU block. Also, could be flake of paint from either fitting or other component in your loop that just got lose and have been recirculated in the loop


I guarantee you that my blocks were clean. My GPU block was spotless and I took apart my CPU block before assembling the loop and cleaned it. Both are nickel plated with Plexi tops. There has been no change in colour yet. I can't prove that it isn't from the fittings, but to me it looks like paint fibers from the radiator/S.



broodro0ster said:


> Did you run Blitz part 2 (preferably with a filter before the first block in the loop) in the loop after doing the rads with part 1?
> I rebuild my system with hardline and pastel 5 weeks ago and yesterday I drained my loop to add my new GPU to the loop and everything was spotless.
> 
> And there no need to buy new fluid. Just drain it in a container and run it through a coffee filter. Then reuse it


I did run part 2 through the loop outside of the case before assembly, however I don't have a filter. I will invest in one next time. It's strange though because the debris didn't appear during the 8 hours I ran pure distilled water through the system, it only appeared around 2 hours after adding the coolant concentrate.


----------



## Zammin

I bought an XSPC inline filter (literally the only watercooling filter sold in Aus) for next time.. For now all I can do is leave it and see if the debris dislodges or breaks down. It would be wise to leave it for a while anyway so that if any more debris comes out it will happen before I drain the system to clean it. It's just annoying because I went to pretty extensive lengths to make sure everything was right and this just had to happen after I added the coolant. :/


----------



## Rainmaker91

Hmm... I just noticed that there is a new mixture rate between the blitz part 1 that I have and the other kit I just got in the mail. is it still ok to mix them together? I mean the first one says 250ml to 750ml and the second kit says 50ml to 950ml mixing ratio (like Zammin's kit). Is the new one just more concentrated or is it a new formula altogether?

Oh, and sorry for being a pain in the butt about this. I just figured I didn't have enough for even my 2 rads for my main system with 1 of the old kit (they each can hold about 700ml so yeah...).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

skupples said:


> I totally forgot that you need like 4x bottles of x1 per gallon, also
> 
> I just came into a giant puddle on the floor - guess it's time to switch over to the new drops since 90% of my coolant was lost.
> 
> Glad I didn't trust my leak testing on this old radiator too, as I could'a nuked my whole system if it would'a ended up in the top, instead of the bottom.
> 
> Weird thing is, it seems one of the channels busted deep inside the radiator.  I think it's the same radiator that caused the weird 300mm of water gulp.
> 
> -theory, due to my system only running on one of two pumps for a year, with ancient coolant, one of the channels sprang a small leak, then clogged? idk... := I just remember this weird gooey rust oozing out of the fins during original breakdown.


Probably stored with coolant still inside. They tend to rot from the inside if left wet, the stagnated coolant becomes 'acidic' and the lack of airflow inside doesnt dry it out.


----------



## OutlawII

Zammin said:


> I bought an XSPC inline filter (literally the only watercooling filter sold in Aus) for next time.. For now all I can do is leave it and see if the debris dislodges or breaks down. It would be wise to leave it for a while anyway so that if any more debris comes out it will happen before I drain the system to clean it. It's just annoying because I went to pretty extensive lengths to make sure everything was right and this just had to happen after I added the coolant. :/


Dont feel to bad dude,got my system all setup and i see some fine black stuff in my gpu block !!!!!!!!!!!!!! No big deal im just gonna run it for awhile and ill clean it all out again.


----------



## Zammin

OutlawII said:


> Dont feel to bad dude,got my system all setup and i see some fine black stuff in my gpu block !!!!!!!!!!!!!! No big deal im just gonna run it for awhile and ill clean it all out again.


Thanks man. In the same boat as me huh? I know it's not a huge deal, it's just such a bummer after over a weeks worth of effort and a number of preventative measures and it's right there staring me in the face when I look at my new system. At least I know for next time to run the components for at least 24 hours through a filter before final assembly. The filter cost me another $25 but I'm sure I'll use it more than once going forward.


----------



## OutlawII

Zammin said:


> Thanks man. In the same boat as me huh? I know it's not a huge deal, it's just such a bummer after over a weeks worth of effort and a number of preventative measures and it's right there staring me in the face when I look at my new system. At least I know for next time to run the components for at least 24 hours through a filter before final assembly. The filter cost me $25 but I'm sure I'll use it more than once going forward.



Yep it is what it is dude. Make a fresh pot of coffee and get busy thats what im gonna do,but im going to enjoy the new setup for awhile first i need to get back in some games.


----------



## Zammin

OutlawII said:


> Yep it is what it is dude. Make a fresh pot of coffee and get busy thats what im gonna do,but im going to enjoy the new setup for awhile first i need to get back in some games.


Yeah I won't be tearing down this system any time soon either. I've got another one to assemble so I need this one running while I do that. I'll make use of the filter for this next one to make sure I catch any particles in the first day or two before final assembly...


----------



## ThrashZone

Zammin said:


> Thanks man. In the same boat as me huh? I know it's not a huge deal, it's just such a bummer after over a weeks worth of effort and a number of preventative measures and it's right there staring me in the face when I look at my new system. At least I know for next time to run the components for at least 24 hours through a filter before final assembly. *The filter cost me another $25 but I'm sure I'll use it more than once going forward*.


Hi,
Well worth it to add one


----------



## OutlawII

What did i do wrong looks like its seperating in the bottom of res,but when i shut the pump off it looks normal?


----------



## skupples

have you purged all the air from the sytem? That can take quite some time.


----------



## OutlawII

skupples said:


> have you purged all the air from the sytem? That can take quite some time.



I thought i did but maybe not idk


----------



## 414347

There are some persistent air bubbles that can take literately week or weeks to get rid of , until then you might see that , I've seen similar sort of separation before due to air packets. 
With my system and pumps pushing over 1.3 Gallons/min it takes about 3 weeks to completely bleed. 

Btw. nice green


----------



## OutlawII

NewUser16 said:


> There are some persistent air bubbles that can take literately week or weeks to get rid of , until then you might see that , I've seen similar sort of separation before due to air packets.
> With my system and pumps pushing over 1.3 Gallons/min it takes about 3 weeks to completely bleed.
> 
> Btw. nice green


Ok thanks for the info i wont panic yet, and thanks i like the green too


----------



## AlphaC

https://thinkcomputers.org/legal-battle-brewing-between-mayhems-thermaltake/




https://www.facebook.com/mlwood37/posts/10155989205703144 said:


> With out Prejudice
> ThermalTake has decided to use our our "UK trademark" Name (Pastel) with out our permission and are refusing to remove the name off there infringing products.
> I have tried my best and politest way to mediate with them (spelling mistakes galore) with out success and basically they have threatened to have our trademarked removed from us. We are considering taking them to the UK Courts (consulting legal advise now).
> I do not care how big a company is ,"I WILL DEFEND AND FIGHT" this if i can!. We may be a tiny company against a Goliath in this industry!. But it will cost them more than it will me. I'm fighting for all us small guys and companies. We will not let a Mega company like that walk all over us. I HAVE NOTHING TO LOSE.
> Pastel is my trade mark i don't care if you like it or Not, Aurora is our trade mark if you like it or not. Mayhems logos are also protected again if you like it or not. Mayhems is "My hard work", "My coolants are my hard work". Its that simple. I have not worked my ass off for 10 years to have some one take it away from me.
> I gave Thermaltake a chance !!!!
> They will not shut me up like they did others and i will not apologise. I'm not soft and they don't scare me. Mayhems can easily close up and open under any name and carry on doing what we do. I create not steal, I invent not copy, I work hard as do my staff and we all feel the same.



Mayhems, we support you: don't let Thermalfake shut you down like they did to Caselabs.


----------



## iamjanco

AlphaC said:


> https://thinkcomputers.org/legal-battle-brewing-between-mayhems-thermaltake/
> 
> Mayhems, we support you: don't let Thermalfake shut you down like they did to Caselabs.


I'll second that (I also confirmed Aurora, both of which were trademarked in 2015):









The only thing I've got from TT is their PSU tester, which is rather cheap in build quality, but works. That said, TT's marketing techniques leave a lot to be desired. For instance, if you perform a search for caselabs on Amazon, guess whose cases are listed in the returns? Click on one of those search returns and view the source for the page and you'll find:



Code:


<meta name="keywords" content="caselabs" />

As a web dev myself, I can safely say that's highly unethical.


----------



## skupples

NewUser16 said:


> There are some persistent air bubbles that can take literately week or weeks to get rid of , until then you might see that , I've seen similar sort of separation before due to air packets.
> With my system and pumps pushing over 1.3 Gallons/min it takes about 3 weeks to completely bleed.
> 
> Btw. nice green


definitely. I do a shake or two a day after the first full day of shaking, filling, leak testing, etc

I just shook now, n dropped my res by half an inch.



iamjanco said:


> I'll second that (I also confirmed Aurora, both of which were trademarked in 2015):
> 
> View attachment 250474
> 
> 
> The only thing I've got from TT is their PSU tester, which is rather cheap in build quality, but works. That said, TT's marketing techniques leave a lot to be desired. For instance, if you perform a search for caselabs on Amazon, guess whose cases are listed in the returns? Click on one of those search returns and view the source for the page and you'll find:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> <meta name="keywords" content="caselabs" />
> 
> As a web dev myself, I can safely say that's highly unethical.


extremely.

good luck mayhems!


----------



## 414347

I said that before and I say it again...Thermaltake is not only a thief, but it’s also a company that makes extremely cheap products (crap) they have no regards for anyone, they like to use others ideas and pretend to be innovative. I have lost total respect for them long time ago. 

I hate to see people spending so much time away from their families and putting so much energy and effort creating something new just to be stolen by lazy losers. This might sound a bit to harsh, but I personalty hope TT will go down heal and get every bit of what they deserve


----------



## KCDC

Sometimes adding a drop or a few of plain dish soap can help get rid of bubbles. Not sure about air-lock though. Normally, I'd have to bleed the system to get rid of that. Can be annoying especially with rigid tubing from my experience.


----------



## skupples

I try to to get rads with end caps so I can manually fill the radiators, & carefully burp large pockets that can form in vertically mounted rads. 

still, air is weird...


----------



## broodro0ster

I just lay my case down 85° to either side for 30 seconds and I do this 5-6 times. After that, I'm fully bleeded.


----------



## Mayhem

Thank you for your support guys

We are trying our best and hope to resolve this peacefully, how ever I WILL STAND MY GROUND NO MATTER THE COST.

I have passed my emails back and forth to the media and have let the know every thing, we have nothing to hide. I do not have the money they do but i am an English man defending my castle ....






Non Shall Pass .........


----------



## Barefooter

NewUser16 said:


> I said that before and I say it again...Thermaltake is not only a thief, but it’s also a company that makes extremely cheap products (crap) they have no regards for anyone, they like to use others ideas and pretend to be innovative. I have lost total respect for them long time ago.
> 
> I hate to see people spending so much time away from their families and putting so much energy and effort creating something new just to be stolen by lazy losers. This might sound a bit to harsh, but I personalty hope TT will go down heal and get every bit of what they deserve


I feel the same way... a bunch of dirt bags!





Mayhem said:


> Thank you for your support guys
> 
> We are trying our best and hope to resolve this peacefully, how ever I WILL STAND MY GROUND NO MATTER THE COST.
> 
> I have passed my emails back and forth to the media and have let the know every thing, we have nothing to hide. I do not have the money they do but i am an English man defending my castle ....
> 
> https://youtu.be/ZmInkxbvlCs
> 
> Non Shall Pass .........


That video is such a classic :thumb:

I'll bet some of the younger members here have never seen that.


----------



## DarthBaggins

We've got your back Mick :thumb: Thermaltake has been doing these shady practices for years now, one of the many reasons why I will never buy their products.


----------



## Rainmaker91

NewUser16 said:


> I said that before and I say it again...Thermaltake is not only a thief, but it’s also a company that makes extremely cheap products (crap) they have no regards for anyone, they like to use others ideas and pretend to be innovative. I have lost total respect for them long time ago.
> 
> I hate to see people spending so much time away from their families and putting so much energy and effort creating something new just to be stolen by lazy losers. This might sound a bit to harsh, but I personalty hope TT will go down heal and get every bit of what they deserve


To be fair they did use to innovate and did actually manufacture some good products, though I have seen less and less of that the last 5-10 years. As for the thieving part, I couldn't agree more.

Oh, and best of luck to you @Mayhem, it's good to see the little guy stand up to these large corporations.



On a different note...
I finally got the courage to fill my rads with Blitz part 1. There is 4 rads (2 monsta 480, 1 60mm 360 and 1 30m 360), but I was still surprised by the sheer volume of fluid these things could swallow (3-4l, or about a gallon). Guess I really did need the two blitz kits after all


----------



## 414347

Mayhem said:


> Thank you for your support guys
> 
> We are trying our best and hope to resolve this peacefully, how ever I WILL STAND MY GROUND NO MATTER THE COST.
> 
> I have passed my emails back and forth to the media and have let the know every thing, we have nothing to hide. I do not have the money they do but i am an English man defending my castle ....
> 
> https://youtu.be/ZmInkxbvlCs
> 
> Non Shall Pass .........


Man... I’m keep replaying this clip, it’s hilarious.

Sooner or later TT will fall into their own grave that they keep on digging under everyone else, just give them enough rope to hang themselves when they least expecting.


----------



## Mayhem

Rainmaker91 said:


> To be fair they did use to innovate and did actually manufacture some good products, though I have seen less and less of that the last 5-10 years. As for the thieving part, I couldn't agree more.
> 
> Oh, and best of luck to you @Mayhem, it's good to see the little guy stand up to these large corporations.
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note...
> I finally got the courage to fill my rads with Blitz part 1. There is 4 rads (2 monsta 480, 1 60mm 360 and 1 30m 360), but I was still surprised by the sheer volume of fluid these things could swallow (3-4l, or about a gallon). Guess I really did need the two blitz kits after all


What the hell you cooling, the whole of NASA !!!!


----------



## iamjanco

Mayhem said:


> What the hell you cooling, the whole of NASA !!!!



Lol, *2.8 ltrs just for the rads themselves* 

Never underestimate the whims (nor foolishness) of an enthusiast


----------



## Fissa

Omegalul copyrighting a widely used english word to describe a color. You're just mad you ain't getting paid ez money.

If they stole your formula it would be a different story but this is just silly. Let me copyright UV.


----------



## 414347

iamjanco said:


> Lol, *2.8 ltrs just for the rads themselves*
> 
> Never underestimate the whims (nor foolishness) of an enthusiast


----------



## 414347

Fissa said:


> Omegalul copyrighting a widely used english word to describe a color. You're just mad you ain't getting paid ez money.
> 
> If they stole your formula it would be a different story but this is just silly. Let me copyright UV.


Are you TT fan Boy, if you are, you're definitely in the wrong forum. Go give Thermalfake more encouragement to still


----------



## Barefooter

iamjanco said:


> Never underestimate the whims (nor foolishness) of an enthusiast


I'll have to agree with you here iamjanco 

Here's 4 x 560s, plus 2 x 280s soaking with Blitz Part 1.










As first mounted into my THW10 case :thumb:


----------



## 414347

Barefooter said:


> I'll have to agree with you here iamjanco
> 
> Here's 4 x 560s, plus 2 x 280s soaking with Blitz Part 1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As first mounted into my THW10 case :thumb:


Gorges rads. I have 4x 480 Nemesis Ultra Stealth just single port and I love them but my next purchase is the HL multi port.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Mayhem said:


> What the hell you cooling, the whole of NASA !!!!


Nothing as extreme as the other examples just posted, but I do have 2 separate builds going on at the same time with one being a watercooled "retro" PC with 2 360 rads (Be Quiet! Silent Base 801, in reverse so I can have one case on each side of the desk) and the other being my main rig with two 480 rads (Phanteks Enthoo Primo).

Oh, and I did miscalculate a bit. It's "only" 2-3l and not 3-4l. Still, a lot of fluid though and the blitz transformed into that nice turquoise colour that we all love so much after sitting in them for about 8 hours.


----------



## iamjanco

Barefooter said:


> I'll have to agree with you here iamjanco
> 
> Here's 4 x 560s, plus 2 x 280s soaking with Blitz Part 1.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As first mounted into my THW10 case :thumb:


I'll capitulate for the time being (you've definitely got me beat there), but I had been pondering adding QDs to the build I'll be sticking in my SMA8, which would allow me to either add in the MO-RAs, or a chiller. As "needed," of course.

Your build did come out great and is a reflection of the time and effort you put into it :thumb:


----------



## skupples

I just installed QD4s and they’re HUGE inside my STH10. Make sure you get their total size and account for it as I’m gonna have to move to up from board pass thru 5 inches closer to the front of my case. 

Super useful tho. Wish o woulda added them years ago. I’m just not an acrylic fan. Looks great, but I change stuff too often.


----------



## Mayhem

Fissa said:


> Omegalul copyrighting a widely used english word to describe a color. You're just mad you ain't getting paid ez money.
> 
> If they stole your formula it would be a different story but this is just silly. Let me copyright UV.


I think you need to understand the trademark system. We have only trademarked pastel in the context of coolants. Why because we were the first (ill rephrase that) i was the first. I gave it the name, i did all the hard work, i promoted the product. What have they done....

You obv don't understand as well, I've asked them for no money at all. I do not want or wish for there money. I work hard for my money and don't skimp off others. in fact i ask'd they give £100 to a charity ASD a year to use MY trademark, I have honour, integrity and a willingness to stand up to them.


----------



## Mayhem

NewUser16 said:


>


MOTHER OF >........... Speechless......


----------



## AlphaC

Fissa said:


> Omegalul copyrighting a widely used english word to describe a color. You're just mad you ain't getting paid ez money.
> 
> If they stole your formula it would be a different story but this is just silly. Let me copyright UV.


 That's not how trademarks work.


Also I think most people are annoyed with Thermaltake copying things and selling them as if they made it.


Most reputable watercooling companies have worked with Mayhems with respect to the Pastel moniker such as EKWB, Swiftech, and Alphacool. In fact Swiftech's liquid is now "made by Mayhems".


https://www.swiftech.com/Hydrx-NF-PM.aspx 

"The new Swiftech HydrX-NF is a pre-mixed non-toxic formulation, custom made by Mayhem exclusively for Swiftech."


Instead of doing that, Thermaltake is threatening litigation.


----------



## skupples

just put caselabs in on amazon, see another great reason why enthusiast folks dislike TT.

It's a hard pill to swallow now that CL is gone.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh we been making swiftech coolant for about 3 years now (i think, time flys when your having fun). The new white fluid we make for them is a new release just for them. We also do some stuff for bitspower and we may have a bigger feather in our cap soon. Some companies we cannot go into detail about but our fingers are in a canny few pies.


----------



## Fissa

Omegalul we have trademarking experts in here. You think Thermaltake didn't run it through their legal team before using the word "pastel" ? 

Some people are calling them thieves for copying designs, yet in a world where everyone sues eachother for the luls Thermaltake seems to get away unscathed.

I can use the word Pastel in my own line aswell without your blessings and call it Fissa Pastel for coolants  Because it's not confusing for consumers to make a distinction between Mayhems Pastel and Fisa Pastel. There is 0% chance of you winning any lawsuit based on this.

You'll end up like Caselabs.


----------



## OutlawII

Can one of the Mayhems guys chime in on this,ordering some pastel from ppcs but worried its gonna freeze before it gets here i live in Minnesota so -20f is common. So will that damge it or cause issues?


----------



## 414347

Fissa said:


> Omegalul we have trademarking experts in here. You think Thermaltake didn't run it through their legal team before using the word "pastel" ?
> 
> Some people are calling them thieves for copying designs, yet in a world where everyone sues eachother for the luls Thermaltake seems to get away unscathed.
> 
> I can use the word Pastel in my own line aswell without your blessings and call it Fissa Pastel for coolants  Because it's not confusing for consumers to make a distinction between Mayhems Pastel and Fisa Pastel. There is 0% chance of you winning any lawsuit based on this.
> 
> You'll end up like Caselabs.



Are you trying to convince us or yourself of the nonsense you're speaking of.

I should post the link that I came across yesterday, in fact the comic picture below its from that forum but you can simply do some research and see how by now, faster than before so many Thermalfake users themselves are disgusted with the unethical way TT conducting their business..It's just a matter of time, and as I said that earlier, they are walking slippery slope. 

Why TT gets away with this..

While other companies emphasize and uses most of their resources on innovating new products and as we all know that can get expensive, Thermalfake leaches of that and simply stills without having even slightest regard to absolutely no one, to them it's a quick and free profit without putting absolutely no effort and money and that's why they probably have the capital to fall back on if anyone tries to go after them.

At the same time I'm sure by now other companies realize that if anyone is going to pay for TT garbage that was originated e.g. by Caselabs or other brands..well... go ahead and soon you find out that you pay for what you getting and I'm not speaking out of anger I am unbiased but I work with ton of people who had the chance to try TT products and 100% of them saying that TT its simply not even worthy to consider and word now its spreading quicker than before, it take long to make a name for yourself and it doesn't take long to go down the drain. 

Speaking of Caselab. You have no idea of the deeper dynamics that lead Caselabs to their closure and again I won't get into it but TT did in fact stole their design and that is no secret and the only reason Caselabs backed away because they were already facing internal personal crises and they had no energy or capital of fighting with total idiots.

Once again, if you are here on behalf of Thermalfake, you are not doing either yourself or them any favor by justifying the damage they have done over the years, sooner or later it will catch up with them, unfortunately might be too late to do any damage control.


----------



## Mayhem

OutlawII said:


> Can one of the Mayhems guys chime in on this,ordering some pastel from ppcs but worried its gonna freeze before it gets here i live in Minnesota so -20f is common. So will that damge it or cause issues?


-20 It will freeze over as its only rated for -10c How ever should be fine as long as you let it naturally thaw out and give it a good shake. if it does not work Fire me and email and we will solve the issue for you.



Fissa said:


> Omegalul we have trademarking experts in here. You think Thermaltake didn't run it through their legal team before using the word "pastel" ?
> 
> Some people are calling them thieves for copying designs, yet in a world where everyone sues eachother for the luls Thermaltake seems to get away unscathed.
> 
> I can use the word Pastel in my own line aswell without your blessings and call it Fissa Pastel for coolants  Because it's not confusing for consumers to make a distinction between Mayhems Pastel and Fisa Pastel. There is 0% chance of you winning any lawsuit based on this.
> 
> You'll end up like Caselabs.


Actually they didn't, ive been in touch with there legal team.


----------



## OutlawII

Mayhem said:


> -20 It will freeze over as its only rated for -10c How ever should be fine as long as you let it naturally thaw out and give it a good shake. if it does not work Fire me and email and we will solve the issue for you.


You guys are awesome! Thanks for the response


----------



## iSpark

18022012 Unopened bottle of Mayhem X1 - UV Green 250ml concentrate

Still good?


----------



## skupples

X1 lasts forever in my experience, though it may suffer some minor color shift that SHOULD vanish after dilution.


----------



## iSpark

skupples said:


> X1 lasts forever in my experience, though it may suffer some minor color shift that SHOULD vanish after dilution.



Aye...thanks

Wish Mayhems made a pastel gold color.


----------



## Zammin

Mayhem said:


> -20 It will freeze over as its only rated for -10c How ever should be fine as long as you let it naturally thaw out and give it a good shake. if it does not work Fire me and email and we will solve the issue for you.


Hi Michael

I sent you an email a few weeks ago via the Mayhems website asking some questions about my Blitz kit and the results I got with it, I also posted here a couple of times but didn't get a response to either. I understand you've been busy dealing with Thermalfake and I completely understand, but if you do find the time to reply I would greatly appreciate it.

In case the email is lost or didn't make it, essentially what I was asking about was why my Blitz Kit has a different mix ratio to what is listed on the Mayhems website as well as the website of the vendor I purchased from (Singularity Computers). The ratio on the bottle and in the instructions for Part 1 is 50ml per 1L of fluid, but everywhere else says 250ml per 1L of fluid. Some of us here have speculated that it may be a newer, stronger version but I don't think that's been confirmed.

I used it on 5 radiators, 3 of which were brand new and I didn't really get anything out of them except some blue-ish fluid. I flushed all the rads very thoroughly with distilled water after draining Part 1. Each radiator was left with Part 1 for 10-12 hours.

In the past using distilled white vinegar I got a lot of visible debris out of 2 radiators, much like what is seen in your instructional video, but with Part 1 I didn't notice any debris.

When I put the system together (with 2 of the radiators) after using Blitz Part 1 and 2 I let it run on distilled water for 8 hours, checked the PH level and it was right on "7" using the litmus strips that came with the kit, which is perfectly within the ideal range. I then added Mayhems Pastel UV Green in the correct mix ratio and just 1 hour later I found bits of black radiator paint lodged in my GPU block.

Next time I will run the system with an inline filter for 24-48 hours to ensure this doesn't happen again but my concern is with how effective the kit I received was and why the mix ratio was different to what is listed everywhere.

Looking forward to hearing your opinions and best of luck in your case with TT. I sincerely hope they get what's coming to them.


----------



## Mayhem

iSpark said:


> 18022012 Unopened bottle of Mayhem X1 - UV Green 250ml concentrate
> 
> Still good?


If stored at 25c it may be possible its still working. How ever if stored higher or lower it may only last a few months. It is out of its recommend usage though. Personally i would only dilute it to 1/2 its recommended size on the bottle just to be sure.


----------



## Mayhem

Zammin said:


> Hi Michael
> 
> I sent you an email a few weeks ago via the Mayhems website asking some questions about my Blitz kit and the results I got with it, I also posted here a couple of times but didn't get a response to either. I understand you've been busy dealing with Thermalfake and I completely understand, but if you do find the time to reply I would greatly appreciate it.
> 
> In case the email is lost or didn't make it, essentially what I was asking about was why my Blitz Kit has a different mix ratio to what is listed on the Mayhems website as well as the website of the vendor I purchased from (Singularity Computers). The ratio on the bottle and in the instructions for Part 1 is 50ml per 1L of fluid, but everywhere else says 250ml per 1L of fluid. Some of us here have speculated that it may be a newer, stronger version but I don't think that's been confirmed.
> 
> I used it on 5 radiators, 3 of which were brand new and I didn't really get anything out of them except some blue-ish fluid. I flushed all the rads very thoroughly with distilled water after draining Part 1. Each radiator was left with Part 1 for 10-12 hours.
> 
> In the past using distilled white vinegar I got a lot of visible debris out of 2 radiators, much like what is seen in your instructional video, but with Part 1 I didn't notice any debris.
> 
> When I put the system together (with 2 of the radiators) after using Blitz Part 1 and 2 I let it run on distilled water for 8 hours, checked the PH level and it was right on "7" using the litmus strips that came with the kit, which is perfectly within the ideal range. I then added Mayhems Pastel UV Green in the correct mix ratio and just 1 hour later I found bits of black radiator paint lodged in my GPU block.
> 
> Next time I will run the system with an inline filter for 24-48 hours to ensure this doesn't happen again but my concern is with how effective the kit I received was and why the mix ratio was different to what is listed everywhere.
> 
> Looking forward to hearing your opinions and best of luck in your case with TT. I sincerely hope they get what's coming to them.


Hi There

Depending on were you live int he world you get diffrent versions as we have to get it though customs and each and every country has diffrent regulations. Also we have been improving the mix ratios and try to up date the site as much as possible which can be hard to keep up on. The instructions in the box all ways have the most up to date information we have on the products.

Yes we have a new stronger version.

Ref flushing , some times if you don't get into all the corners you will have flakes coming out as Blitz takes time to work. Only a good flush getting into all the crevices and air gaps will aid in removing all the bits. Also barbs can dislodge paint on the side.

Hope this helps


----------



## iSpark

Mayhem said:


> If stored at 25c it may be possible its still working. How ever if stored higher or lower it may only last a few months. It is out of its recommend usage though. Personally i would only dilute it to 1/2 its recommended size on the bottle just to be sure.


Thanks for the reply!
I won this bottle in a giveaway back in 2012 and green just isn't my thing, however, I may try it and grab some pics of my loop/setup in green.


----------



## Zammin

Mayhem said:


> Hi There
> 
> Depending on were you live int he world you get diffrent versions as we have to get it though customs and each and every country has diffrent regulations. Also we have been improving the mix ratios and try to up date the site as much as possible which can be hard to keep up on. The instructions in the box all ways have the most up to date information we have on the products.
> 
> Yes we have a new stronger version.
> 
> Ref flushing , some times if you don't get into all the corners you will have flakes coming out as Blitz takes time to work. Only a good flush getting into all the crevices and air gaps will aid in removing all the bits. Also barbs can dislodge paint on the side.
> 
> Hope this helps


Hey thanks for the clarification.

When I flushed the rads after using blitz part 1, I plumbed the radiator into the mains and let it run for 5 minutes, then flushed it with distilled water many times by filling the radiator and shaking it vigorously each time. It's just kinda odd that I didn't see any debris come out during that process. When I used distilled white vinegar in the past I could see the debris come out immediately when I poured out the mixture. The Blitz Part 1 was blue-ish though so it must have taken some corrosion or oxidization with out it. 

True, there is a possibility that the black paint fibers could have come from the fittings, I can't prove that its not that. I did think that looked like debris from the radiator/s though, hard to be sure. It is very odd that it didn't show up during the 8 hours I ran the loop with pure distilled and only appeared within an hour after adding the coolant concentrate to the mix.

I bought an XSPC inline filter so what I will do next time is follow the same procedure but I will run the loop with the inline filter fitted to catch any debris for the first 24-48 hours so it doesn't get lodged in the blocks again.


----------



## 414347

Zammin said:


> Hey thanks for the clarification.
> 
> When I flushed the rads after using blitz part 1, I plumbed the radiator into the mains and let it run for 5 minutes, then flushed it with distilled water many times by filling the radiator and shaking it vigorously each time. It's just kinda odd that I didn't see any debris come out during that process. When I used distilled white vinegar in the past I could see the debris come out immediately when I poured out the mixture. The Blitz Part 1 was blue-ish though so it must have taken some corrosion or oxidization with out it.
> 
> True, there is a possibility that the black paint fibers could have come from the fittings, I can't prove that its not that. I did think that looked like debris from the radiator/s though, hard to be sure. It is very odd that it didn't show up during the 8 hours I ran the loop with pure distilled and only appeared within an hour after adding the coolant concentrate to the mix.
> 
> I bought an XSPC inline filter so what I will do next time is follow the same procedure but I will run the loop with the inline filter fitted to catch any debris for the first 24-48 hours so it doesn't get lodged in the blocks again.


What you experiencing could be a matter of timing and coincident. 

I don't think you can predict, neither prevent from anything at anytime ending up in the loop(s) We all trying to go the extra step of cleaning our radiators before hand to make sure that they are as clean as possible, its one way of preventing from possible issues down the road, but again, if a fakes of paint or small particle from one of the fittings threads themselves or even debris from radiator that decided to be stubborn even after using acid solution, despite of that, you might still end up with piece of wherever in your system.

In Theory, so I'm not saying you should go ahead and do that, but if you decide to empty the loop(s) and flush your system few times again getting that persistent particle out, and then refilling it again, the chance of you getting anything similar back in the loop would be very slim, but there is still that small possibility that something become lose and flow.


----------



## Zammin

NewUser16 said:


> What you experiencing could be a matter of timing and coincident.
> 
> I don't think you can predict, neither prevent from anything at anytime ending up in the loop(s) We all trying to go the extra step of cleaning our radiators before hand to make sure that they are as clean as possible, its one way of preventing from possible issues down the road, but again, if a fakes of paint or small particle from one of the fittings threads themselves or even debris from radiator that decided to be stubborn even after using acid solution, despite of that, you might still end up with piece of wherever in your system.
> 
> In Theory, so I'm not saying you should go ahead and do that, but if you decide to empty the loop(s) and flush your system few times again getting that persistent particle out, and then refilling it again, the chance of you getting anything similar back in the loop would be very slim, but there is still that small possibility that something become lose and flow.


Yes I agree those are certainly possibilities. I don't have the capacity to drain it and pull the block apart to clean it right now since it's my only working computer (I'm building another loop for my main system atm) but next time I change the fluid or something I'll do it then. At least if I leave it for a while it will get any other debris out first before I drain it. I haven't seen any additional debris appear over the last week or two though, just the initial bits of crap that ended up in the GPU block.

My main concern was not seeing any debris come out with Blitz Part 1 across 5 radiators, I expected to see some dirt or debris come out but I didn't notice anything. Just blue tinted water. There is a small chance that I just got really lucky with the rads and they weren't dirty at all, and the debris came from the fittings, but I have no way of knowing for sure.


----------



## 414347

Zammin said:


> Yes I agree those are certainly possibilities. I don't have the capacity to drain it and pull the block apart to clean it right now since it's my only working computer (I'm building another loop for my main system atm) but next time I change the fluid or something I'll do it then. At least if I leave it for a while it will get any other debris out first before I drain it. I haven't seen any additional debris appear over the last week or two though, just the initial bits of crap that ended up in the GPU block.
> 
> My main concern was not seeing any debris come out with Blitz Part 1 across 5 radiators, I expected to see some dirt or debris come out but I didn't notice anything. Just blue tinted water. There is a small chance that I just got really lucky with the rads and they weren't dirty at all, and the debris came from the fittings, but I have no way of knowing for sure.


This is one of those things where you might never get to the bottom of it because of so many different possibilities. Maybe your rads were very clean to begin with and this could very well be one logical explanation why you didn't see anything while you were draining Blitz#1 

Letting it run until next liquid change, sound like a good idea. If perhaps anything else decides to flake off or uprear out of somewhere, you will get the chance to flash that out and if nothing else will show up, your all good


----------



## DarthBaggins

So what's this I see on IG about Aurora S? :ninja:


----------



## Mayhem

IG ????

https://www.facebook.com/mlwood37/videos/10156011029858144/
https://www.facebook.com/mlwood37/videos/10156010857168144/

WIP (P.s you may need the loo after the second video)



BTW -> https://www.techpowerup.com/252352/thermaltake-and-mayhems-fighting-over-pastel-trademark-in-the-uk


----------



## OutlawII

Mayhem said:


> IG ????
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/mlwood37/videos/10156011029858144/
> https://www.facebook.com/mlwood37/videos/10156010857168144/
> 
> WIP (P.s you may need the loo after the second video)
> 
> 
> 
> BTW -> https://www.techpowerup.com/252352/thermaltake-and-mayhems-fighting-over-pastel-trademark-in-the-uk



The best line of the article 


> Mayhems told us that the last offer they sent to Thermaltake was with the intention to put this in the past. They wanted Thermaltake to make a £100 donation to a charity in exchange for permission to use the registered trademark


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mayhem said:


> IG ????
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/mlwood37/videos/10156011029858144/
> https://www.facebook.com/mlwood37/videos/10156010857168144/
> 
> WIP (P.s you may need the loo after the second video)
> 
> 
> 
> BTW -> https://www.techpowerup.com/252352/thermaltake-and-mayhems-fighting-over-pastel-trademark-in-the-uk


IG = Instagram


----------



## Leonko

Mayhem said:


> IG ????
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/mlwood37/videos/10156011029858144/
> https://www.facebook.com/mlwood37/videos/10156010857168144/
> 
> WIP (P.s you may need the loo after the second video)


looks awesome !  will this be avaiable for long term use like X1 etc ? and not only for presentations like aurora ?


----------



## Mayhem

Did not know it had cross-posted, I keep forgetting about IG. 

It was a quick test of something I haven't had much time to play with. We went back to it today and its still holding up. I am leaving it a month or so to see how it goes then if all goes well we will put it in a restrictive system. As my lass says though, if it does work we may have issues doing it in bulk because of the process I had to go through to make this sample. We have no clue as of yet how long it would last but I suspect if we were to sell it I would keep it under the SFX umbrella and say short term use. This protects you guys as well as us due to the clemency of everyone when using SFX coolants (if that is the right word to use).


----------



## devilhead

hi, so i have ordered the XT-1 Nuke Clear (5ltr) from the mayhems store, because in norway they has just regular x1 clear, so got package with x1 clear. 
It could be mistake or xt-1 nuke in that bottle  (contacted mayhems sale on thursday, waiting on response)


----------



## skupples

i'd lean towards mistake.


----------



## MURDoctrine

If I want to switch over to Mayhems products from pure distilled do I need to grab the inhibitor and biocide as well or does it come premixed? Also is there any difference in the premix and concentrate other than having to measure/mix it out yourself?


----------



## ezveedub

MURDoctrine said:


> If I want to switch over to Mayhems products from pure distilled do I need to grab the inhibitor and biocide as well or does it come premixed? Also is there any difference in the premix and concentrate other than having to measure/mix it out yourself?


No need for inhibitor or biocide when running coolant, just change it out when due over time. 

Your idea on premix/concentrate is exact also.


----------



## MURDoctrine

Okay one last question. Is it better to get a pre-dyed version and then tweak it or go white and just make your own color of pastel?


----------



## Shawnb99

Does the blitz kit have a shelf life? Ordered one maybe 6 month ago and never used it, am wondering if it’s safe to use now.

Plus is it safe to use on HWL rads?


----------



## Fyrwulf

I would ask how the hell you get the mica to suspend like that when pearlescent auto paint doesn't suspend that well, but I think that's probably a secret.


----------



## 414347

Shawnb99 said:


> Does the blitz kit have a shelf life? Ordered one maybe 6 month ago and never used it, am wondering if it’s safe to use now.
> 
> Plus is it safe to use on HWL rads?


If you haven't opened it will last for years before any degradation, once opened, shelf life its around 1 year 
Yes Hardware Labs are copper its perfectly safe to use it.


----------



## Shawnb99

NewUser16 said:


> If you haven't opened it will last for years before any degradation, once opened, shelf life its around 1 year
> 
> Yes Hardware Labs are copper its perfectly safe to use it.




K thanks.

Never opened it, was scared to use it after reading the instructions, plus I had EK rads and read somewhere it would causes issues.
Glad I can still use it as I just got a great deal on 5l of X1 fluid


----------



## Mayhem

devilhead said:


> hi, so i have ordered the XT-1 Nuke Clear (5ltr) from the mayhems store, because in norway they has just regular x1 clear, so got package with x1 clear.
> It could be mistake or xt-1 nuke in that bottle  (contacted mayhems sale on thursday, waiting on response)


Can you email me direct [email protected] - i will get this sorted

Please fire me you Order number as well. we have new staff being trained and they messed up sent you the wrong product.


----------



## Mayhem

Shawnb99 said:


> Does the blitz kit have a shelf life? Ordered one maybe 6 month ago and never used it, am wondering if it’s safe to use now.
> 
> Plus is it safe to use on HWL rads?


Nope! if it's in the bottle it will last beyond any time you'll remember why you bought it in the first place.


----------



## Mayhem

Update 

Mayhems In Development Nano Dot Coolant. Project name: *Iris* Greek goddess for "rainbow".






So been Working on any spare time to make my Nano Dot fluid, however, time is short. But today we had success and proof of the pudding is in the eating as the saying goes. So got a new laser pen and we tested my theory for the work I have been doing on the new Nano Dot coolant. There are several aims for this project. 1) STOP light passing through completely. 2) Stop Colour change by making a super inhibitor that blocks copper from leaching into the system, 3) Do not use Biocides that deteriorate over a long period of time and use a natural biocide that doesn't stop working..... All 3 have been achieved. An extra bit of info for Overclock.net users this is a never change coolant. Meaning once it's in! you do not need to change your fluid ever again unless you like to change colour. 

Again this is Work in progress. Its taken a lot of work to get here and we haven't got a clue how we can mass produce such a product, how we will market it and if it truly works (we have not produced enough yet for a cooling system yet)... What we have made has never been done before.

Explanation of the video.

1) laser light does not pass through the coolant at all, it blocks all light, nothing will grow in the coolant.
2) Second clear glass (on the right), you can see water on top and the coolant on the base, it's blue in colour and we've managed to infuse dye into the coolant so it will never come out of the coolant. Therefore will not stain or dye a system. Because of the way it is made and the way it works. Basically, the colour will never change (in theory).

I cannot go into too much info but if we can get this to work all other products as in liquid coolants will become void.


----------



## Shawnb99

I like the idea of never change coolant.

Will this work with all tubing types?

I’ll be ordering some of this when you do start to sell it.

Very nice, keep up the good work!!


----------



## Mayhem

Its contains No glycol, no inhibitor, no biocide, nothing but the nano mix. In theory, should work with anything and everything. However, only testing will tell us that.

This is an early show peace of what I am working on and its taken a long time to get this far.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

Awesome progress. I will love this when it comes out!


----------



## Barefooter

That Nano Dot Coolant would be incredible especially if they color really does hold.

Never changing your coolant would be a major selling point as well :specool:


----------



## DarthBaggins

That is insane to see it actually blocking light from passing through, can't wait to see this go further.


----------



## Zammin

Has anyone else experienced loss of UV reaction in their Mayhems Pastel coolant?

I thought I was just imagining it at first, but now I'm very sure my Mayhems Pastel UV Green has significantly lost it's glow over the space of a few weeks. When I put it in my system a few weeks ago it was reacting very nicely to the UV LEDs in my case, but recently I started noticing it was glowing less and less. Now even with just the UV lights on it's barely glowing, where as before I could see it even with the rest of the LED lighting in the case turned on.

When I first assembled the system a few weeks ago I made certain that the PH level in the water was in the acceptable range. It was in line with 7 on the litmus paper chart, and the ideal range is 6-8. So there isn't any issues there. It just seems to have lost at least 50% (maybe 75%) of it's UV reaction for some reason.


----------



## Mayhem

Zammin said:


> Has anyone else experienced loss of UV reaction in their Mayhems Pastel coolant?
> 
> I thought I was just imagining it at first, but now I'm very sure my Mayhems Pastel UV Green has significantly lost it's glow over the space of a few weeks. When I put it in my system a few weeks ago it was reacting very nicely to the UV LEDs in my case, but recently I started noticing it was glowing less and less. Now even with just the UV lights on it's barely glowing, where as before I could see it even with the rest of the LED lighting in the case turned on.
> 
> When I first assembled the system a few weeks ago I made certain that the PH level in the water was in the acceptable range. It was in line with 7 on the litmus paper chart, and the ideal range is 6-8. So there isn't any issues there. It just seems to have lost at least 50% (maybe 75%) of it's UV reaction for some reason.


This may sound a bit daft but this is what happens.

Mayhems pastel is a light blocker and over time if the system is dirty only the water in the pastel can change colour. Now the water is dyed and if any dirt gets in the system by any means yes the colour UV effect is the first thing to fade. Normally this takes around 2 years to happen. However, I have had 2 other reports of Pastel UV White doing this. When we got samples back we found the PH to be out of place and this was the cause of it (we issued free blitz kits and replacement fluid to the users and this fixed the issue). I have never seen UV green change colour or lose its effect (as in UV effect) in any Pastel, X1 or X-1 line so now I'm intrigued, to say the least. Is there any chance we could get from you a small sample of the original fluid (or at least the date code) plus a sample of the fluid from within your system so we can analyse it and find an answer for you? 

You can contact me directly via "tech @ mayhems .co . uk". Please don't use this forum to PM, I don't have time to keep up to date on it and I do not wish to disappoint you. 

Thank you

Mick


----------



## Zammin

Mayhem said:


> This may sound a bit daft but this is what happens.
> 
> Mayhems pastel is a light blocker and over time if the system is dirty only the water in the pastel can change colour. Now the water is dyed and if any dirt gets in the system by any means yes the colour UV effect is the first thing to fade. Normally this takes around 2 years to happen. However, I have had 2 other reports of Pastel UV White doing this. When we got samples back we found the PH to be out of place and this was the cause of it (we issued free blitz kits and replacement fluid to the users and this fixed the issue). I have never seen UV green change colour or lose its effect (as in UV effect) in any Pastel, X1 or X-1 line so now I'm intrigued, to say the least. Is there any chance we could get from you a small sample of the original fluid (or at least the date code) plus a sample of the fluid from within your system so we can analyse it and find an answer for you?
> 
> You can contact me directly via "tech @ mayhems .co . uk". Please don't use this forum to PM, I don't have time to keep up to date on it and I do not wish to disappoint you.
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Mick


Sure, I'll send you an email. Last time I sent one to that address though I never got a response which is why I've been chatting here on the forum instead.

The UV effect isn't completely gone it's just very dim now. The colour of the fluid hasn't changed. The systems PH was fine when i checked it after running distilled water in it for 8 hours right before adding the concentrate, should I check the PH again now with the coolant in the system?

I can probably send you a sample of the unused concentrate I have left as well as extract a small amount from my system, but I live in Australia so I don't know what the costs and regulations involved with sending chemicals overseas to the UK are. If you could provide any instructions on how to get it to you (or ideally a shipping label of some sort) in reply to my email that would be great.


----------



## Mayhem

Got your Email. You can update people if you wish there are no clauses in our support .


----------



## skupples

and that's why your customer retention would break records if metered.


----------



## Mayhem

@devilhead Your coolant was sent out today, will be with you soon.

P.s Nice Avatar you "Hero" - Midnight meat train aka Clive Barker. my personal hero.


----------



## iamjanco

Mayhem said:


> @devilhead Your coolant was sent out today, will be with you soon.
> 
> P.s Nice Avatar you "Hero" - *Midnight meat train* aka Clive Barker. my personal hero.


Now there's a classic


----------



## skupples

MURDoctrine said:


> If I want to switch over to Mayhems products from pure distilled do I need to grab the inhibitor and biocide as well or does it come premixed? Also is there any difference in the premix and concentrate other than having to measure/mix it out yourself?


the only difference would be Mick using his own super duper 1337 pure water. (and user error)

my personal recommendation at this point would be to invest in his biocide + inhibitor drops, unless you wanna go into the pastels, UVs, etc.


----------



## Mayhem

As above, if you are after performance then keep your water and just add biocide+ and inhibitor +. You will not regret it.


----------



## Mayhem

For those who live in the USA, Next time you see a Caterpillar Train pass by, you can think to your self. Mayhems is on that train. We now supply Caterpillar our coolants for trains in the USA . Who would have thought!


----------



## skupples

Mayhem said:


> For those who live in the USA, Next time you see a Caterpillar Train pass by, you can think to your self. Mayhems is on that train. We now supply Caterpillar our coolants for trains in the USA . Who would have thought!


That's awesome! 

Congratulations!


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's awesome news about Caterpillar!! Makes me even like them more knowing they went with you guys for their cooling needs :thumb:


----------



## MURDoctrine

So how long will an unopened bottle of mayhems pastel hold up?


----------



## Mayhem

if stored at 25c a canny few years. But shake well before using.


----------



## skupples

I wonder if Killdozer woulda made it a little further if it woulda been running Mayhems.

In fact... you should start labeling the US commercial cat stuff with a kill dozer stencil 🙂


----------



## Mayhem

Well, some news. We've taken on more OEMs over the months and also taken on more work and we have more in the pipeline. This has put us under pressure to create more. For the last 10 years, Mayhems have hand made every single product you all get your hands on and this has been a strain, to say the least. This month I have got 1/2 a factory line on order that I paid for and today we've just struck a deal to double the size of mayhems and capacity. This will benefit everyone from resellers to OEM's to you the customer. As with time, we will be able to bulk order more baselines (bottles, labels ect ect), this will bring down our cost and in turn, we will pass these costs back on to everyone else and we will see prices drop across the board. I'm going to try my best to make sure we make our products even better but at what I consider a reasonable price for everyone. Roll on the next few years ... This is going to be fun.


----------



## Limitlesspace

Really positive news! Good luck with your future projects!
Edit: I had a question, but figure it out myself already. It was about renewing the uv effect of white pastel coolant. So, another quick question: there is sky blue and ice blue dye. It shouldn't matter which one to use, right? And the amount of one bottle will be enough for several renewals?


----------



## dwolvin

Awesome! And this might have been covered but is there a timeline on the solid color metallic stuff?


----------



## Mayhem

Limitlesspace said:


> Really positive news! Good luck with your future projects!
> Edit: I had a question, but figure it out myself already. It was about renewing the uv effect of white pastel coolant. So, another quick question: there is sky blue and ice blue dye. It shouldn't matter which one to use, right? And the amount of one bottle will be enough for several renewals?


Yes you cannot boost UV Pastel, Sky blue and Ice Blue cannot be mixed they will interact differently.



dwolvin said:


> Awesome! And this might have been covered but is there a timeline on the solid color metallic stuff?


Ref R&D work! we cannot do a timeline or ETA's as 98% of our R&D work fails once we take it to a live environment. A lot of Stuff never gets released to the public due to many different factors however, the knowledge gained from the experience and understanding is normally moved over to newer or improving other products.


----------



## Limitlesspace

Mayhem said:


> Yes you cannot boost UV Pastel, Sky blue and Ice Blue cannot be mixed they will interact differently.


I meant to use these dies to renew the uv effect in pastel white. So, it will not work? There is no way to restore the uv in pastel white?


----------



## ciarlatano

Limitlesspace said:


> I meant to use these dies to renew the uv effect in pastel white. So, it will not work? There is no way to restore the uv in pastel white?


Is doing a fluid change too obvious of an answer? Or is there some other circumstance you aren't mentioning here, like the fluid only being in the loop for two weeks?


----------



## Limitlesspace

ciarlatano said:


> Is doing a fluid change too obvious of an answer? Or is there some other circumstance you aren't mentioning here, like the fluid only being in the loop for two weeks?


I haven't filled it yet, just asking. If, for some reason, the effect will wear off in 1-2 month after, it wouldn't be economically rational for me to just refill with a new bottle of coolant.
I've been using other uv coolants and it takes at the most 2 months for effect to disappear.


----------



## ezveedub

skupples said:


> I wonder if Killdozer woulda made it a little further if it woulda been running Mayhems.


ROFL...we'll never know, lol


----------



## Mayhem

Limitlesspace said:


> I meant to use these dies to renew the uv effect in pastel white. So, it will not work? There is no way to restore the uv in pastel white?


yes you can add only to pastel white, but only use 1 colour, not both. We have a new UV blue I've been working on however it's extremely expensive. It's from a new plant that was discovered and has a much brighter UV Blue and is more PH resilient, if we can get it in bulk to the UK we may be able to swap everything over to it.


----------



## Limitlesspace

Mayhem said:


> yes you can add only to pastel white, but only use 1 colour, not both. We have a new UV blue I've been working on however it's extremely expensive. It's from a new plant that was discovered and has a much brighter UV Blue and is more PH resilient, if we can get it in bulk to the UK we may be able to swap everything over to it.


Ok, so either sky or ocean uv will work. Cool! Thanks! Looking forward to see if it gets through.


----------



## war4peace

@Mayhem I know this is not much but it's all I can do as an individual to support you and your fight with TT: click me.


----------



## Mayhem

war4peace said:


> @Mayhem I know this is not much but it's all I can do as an individual to support you and your fight with TT: click me.


Please do not that, I have deep respect still even though they have made mistakes. This happens and is "business" at the end of the day. When a larger firm such as TT make mistakes like this we hope we can rectify it without any loss to both parties and we can talk about it. However, TT has not responded to any emails we have sent and we cannot do anything till they try and sell their products here in the UK. We also have other things ongoing which I cannot talk about in public.


----------



## OneFunGenesis

^ While I am sure we all respect your business practices and wishes, I believe the formal protest of TT comes from their repeated and frequent unethical business practices with multiple different parties. The intimate deatils of which I am ignorant of so that is all I will say.


----------



## ryan92084

Mayhem said:


> Update
> 
> Mayhems In Development Nano Dot Coolant. Project name: *Iris* Greek goddess for "rainbow".
> 
> ...


Just out of curiosity is this another evolution of your partnership with ice dragon (also putting out something new "soon") or an entirely separate venture?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

@Mayhem

I wanted to post in here a couple of weeks ago but I kind of forgot to do so. In any case, I just wanted to say how much I appreciate the customer service and quality control you people do. I have been using Mayhems Pastel fluids for the past 6-7 years and the quality has always been excellent. Last January I finally drained the this system (which you helped me set up to get the right color free of charge at the time ):

https://www.overclock.net/forum/180...rnod-dual-xeon-e5-ws-update-08-01-2013-a.html

After 5.5 years without any form of maintenance I only had some minor (red) tube staining on some Tygon R3603 tubing. All other parts were as new after flushing the parts with water (d5, nickel plated EK blocks and radiators). I also still have some Mayhems Pastel Ice White circulating in the loop of my other system, that has been going strong for more than 5 years now (temps are still good). I stocked up on some more 1L pre-mixed Pastel bottles for more years of usage, good stuff :thumb:


----------



## iSpark

Thinking I need some Mayhem red.


----------



## war4peace

Mayhem said:


> Please do not that, I have deep respect still even though they have made mistakes. This happens and is "business" at the end of the day. When a larger firm such as TT make mistakes like this we hope we can rectify it without any loss to both parties and we can talk about it. However, TT has not responded to any emails we have sent and we cannot do anything till they try and sell their products here in the UK. We also have other things ongoing which I cannot talk about in public.


Let's just say this last occurrence is the one that filled he proverbial glass for me.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

I'm after as solid of a white as possible. Would I be best off with Extreme White and mix it with like 1.5-1.7L (is that safe to do?) or would buying the premixed normal Pastel White be better?


----------



## TheBlademaster01

FWIW, the pre-mixed Ice White Pastel looks pretty much identical to milk. Don't know if that is solid enough for you


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

yeah it looks like it but I've noticed the name on mayhem's site isn't Ice White anymore it's just Pastel White which I'm assuming is the same thing?


----------



## ryan92084

H4rd5tyl3 said:


> I'm after as solid of a white as possible. Would I be best off with Extreme White and mix it with like 1.5-1.7L (is that safe to do?) or would buying the premixed normal Pastel White be better?


You could do the ice dragon which is somewhere around 1% milk. Just ignore the performance gain claims since they never panned out in custom loops.


----------



## NewType88

@Mayhem I bought the 250ml of mayhem x1 clear concentrate and on the bottle it’s says mix 250ml with 750ml DW to make 1 liter. However, on mayhems site and performance pc website it says 250ml will make 2 liters....does anyone know which is accurate ?


----------



## war4peace

H4rd5tyl3 said:


> yeah it looks like it but I've noticed the name on mayhem's site isn't Ice White anymore it's just Pastel White which I'm assuming is the same thing?


I own Pastel White which is really white and I love it. I chose it because it takes the color of my LEDs, so if I want a red interior I switch the RGB to red and there you go, looks red.


----------



## Mayhem

ryan92084 said:


> Just out of curiosity is this another evolution of your partnership with ice dragon (also putting out something new "soon") or an entirely separate venture?


This is Complete work from Mayhems. All done in house. The formula is a million miles away from IDC work. This week we managed to make it completely invisible to the eye and again when a laser is shone through it blocks it completely.


----------



## Mayhem

TheBlademaster01 said:


> @Mayhem
> 
> I wanted to post in here a couple of weeks ago but I kind of forgot to do so. In any case, I just wanted to say how much I appreciate the customer service and quality control you people do. I have been using Mayhems Pastel fluids for the past 6-7 years and the quality has always been excellent. Last January I finally drained the this system (which you helped me set up to get the right color free of charge at the time ):
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/180...rnod-dual-xeon-e5-ws-update-08-01-2013-a.html
> 
> After 5.5 years without any form of maintenance I only had some minor (red) tube staining on some Tygon R3603 tubing. All other parts were as new after flushing the parts with water (d5, nickel plated EK blocks and radiators). I also still have some Mayhems Pastel Ice White circulating in the loop of my other system, that has been going strong for more than 5 years now (temps are still good). I stocked up on some more 1L pre-mixed Pastel bottles for more years of usage, good stuff :thumb:


Thank you for that, 5 years is about the limit we've tested to our selves, We haven't really gone past that  good to hear we're not the only ones. It's hilarious once we started making pastel we got called snake oil .


----------



## skupples

Got my Biocide+ Inhibitor+ in.  

I kept having issues, leading to coolant waste, so I'm using the drops until everything is 100%, then hop on the micro-dots when they release. I've always loved micro-dots 


Mayhem said:


> Thank you for that, 5 years is about the limit we've tested to our selves, We haven't really gone past that  good to hear we're not the only ones. It's hilarious once we started making pastel we got called snake oil .



luckily, you proved us all wrong


----------



## ryan92084

Mayhem said:


> ryan92084 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity is this another evolution of your partnership with ice dragon (also putting out something new "soon") or an entirely separate venture?
> 
> 
> 
> This is Complete work from Mayhems. All done in house. The formula is a million miles away from IDC work. This week we managed to make it completely invisible to the eye and again when a laser is shone through it blocks it completely.
Click to expand...

Sounds pretty neat. Definitely looking forward to the long term results.


----------



## Mayhem

NewType88 said:


> @Mayhem I bought the 250ml of mayhem x1 clear concentrate and on the bottle it’s says mix 250ml with 750ml DW to make 1 liter. However, on mayhems site and performance pc website it says 250ml will make 2 liters....does anyone know which is accurate ?


It makes two ltrs, it was an error on the bottle's label. I think we need to make a New Thread with advising and sticky notes about things like this as this thread its hard to find info where we said there was a mistake on the labels.

Might have to fire a message to the amdin and have a locked out thread with updates and info that people cannot respond to.


----------



## skupples

That’s a good idea. 

Also - well organized OP. 

I haven’t looked into it in a long time, but they used to have vendor accounts that gave some minor special access to stuffs. 

I just suffered from that. I remember mixing it... thinking “did they water this down? Smells the same...”


----------



## NewType88

Mayhem said:


> It makes two ltrs, it was an error on the bottle's label. I think we need to make a New Thread with advising and sticky notes about things like this as this thread its hard to find info where we said there was a mistake on the labels.
> 
> Might have to fire a message to the amdin and have a locked out thread with updates and info that people cannot respond to.


Alright thanks. When I read the bottle I questioned my reading and comprehension skills, lol.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

@Mayhem Could you explain to me the difference between the Pastel White and Pastel White Extreme products? Which is more of a solid white?


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel white is more solid and is based off X1 pastel extreme is for sub zero cooling and is based off XT-1 Nuke and is less opaque.


----------



## Shawnb99

I have some X1 clear UV blue coming is it an absolute must that do part 1 of the blitz kit or can I get away with just part 2? 
Already flushed the rads with 50 degree water for half an hr. Will be cleaning 4 HWL rads


----------



## Mayhem

We recommend the full blitz kit on new or second hand bought systems, once that is done you only need to do part 2 after that.


----------



## skupples

I wouldn't skip it, n that water treatment probably did little to remove the stuck on nasties that cause many people issues.

Just went thru this with a buddy of mine over in One million post thread, he thought rinsing out his radiators with hot water a few times was good enough... he learned otherwise. 

X1 is an amazing product, but that doesn't mean you should skip out on properly cleaning & balancing your radiators.


----------



## ezveedub

What exactly is X1 UV Yellow Green mixed with? Can it be mixed from clear X1 coolant and dyes in the regular Mayhems lineup...and if so, what dyes are needed? Local shop is out of X1 UV yellow green concentrate....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> We recommend the full blitz kit on new or second hand bought systems, once that is done you only need to do part 2 after that.




K thanks.

Looks like I’ll be doing some cleaning this weekend.


----------



## Mayhem

New labelling system and logos have been created by toby for us.


----------



## Shawnb99

How many kits would you recommend to clean 4 rads? 2 HWL 360 GRS’s and 2 GTR’s


----------



## skupples

As stated many times in the thread, the same kit can be used many many times before the acid loses its funk.


----------



## Shawnb99

*Mayhems users club*

Thanks just wanted to make sure.


----------



## Mayhem

Its a big thread.


----------



## Fortr4n

Hi there, I wanted to double check about the compatibility of the Mayhem Blitz kit and Cryofuel coolant from EK. Their page states that it is incompatible but also suggests you should not use "harsh" chemicals in cleaning your new radiators before using their coolant. So I am not sure what to make of this especially considering that I would think it is safe to use what ever coolant if after preparing the loop you ran distilled or DI water sevral times through to rinse properly. So by any chance you have any knowledge of what to do in this situation ?


----------



## Mayhem

We sell the Blitz Kit all over the world and if used correctly you will have no issues. No Rad on the market is perfect by any means and the Blitz kit does what it says on the tin. Even the best manufacturer of rads AKA Hardware Labs even agrees that the blitz kit is the best way to clean your rads. We cannot comment on EK's Policy as this is there choice! However, when you put as much into R&D as I do, you will fully understand that the Mayhems Blitz Kit is simply the best on the market bar none at doing what it says on the tin. 40,000 customers cannot be wrong  (that's more or less how many Blitz Kits have been sold since we invented them).


----------



## ciarlatano

Fortr4n said:


> Hi there, I wanted to double check about the compatibility of the Mayhem Blitz kit and Cryofuel coolant from EK. Their page states that it is incompatible but also suggests you should not use "harsh" chemicals in cleaning your new radiators before using their coolant. So I am not sure what to make of this especially considering that I would think it is safe to use what ever coolant if after preparing the loop you ran distilled or DI water sevral times through to rinse properly. So by any chance you have any knowledge of what to do in this situation ?


The best thing to do in this situation is obviously and simply not to use Cryofuel. The fact that EK (who needs to rebrand as "CYA WB") needs to perpetually make excuses for the stuff and it still has issues (as clearly seen on this board) should tell you all you need to know.


----------



## Fortr4n

Thanks for the replies. Yes I could not exactly understand why using the kit and then flushing the system after that could still affect anything used after that. And of issues reported already on this board then i have to admit that i did not go through the 1641 pages 
As far as I understand the XT-1 Nuke is the most recently developed coolant from Mayhems. I guess in the past year and half since it came out all the kinks have been worked out? What I wanted to know is if it is ok to use it even if you do not intend to couple your loop with a chiller and run on sub ambient temperatures? I don't care much for dyes and plan on running clear liquid so should I go with that or instead stick to DI water with something like the Biocide Extreme? Essentially what i am asking is: if I am going with clear coolant what are the best options available to me ?


----------



## Shawnb99

Fortr4n said:


> Thanks for the replies. Yes I could not exactly understand why using the kit and then flushing the system after that could still affect anything used after that. And of issues reported already on this board then i have to admit that i did not go through the 1641 pages
> As far as I understand the XT-1 Nuke is the most recently developed coolant from Mayhems. I guess in the past year and half since it came out all the kinks have been worked out? What I wanted to know is if it is ok to use it even if you do not intend to couple your loop with a chiller and run on sub ambient temperatures? I don't care much for dyes and plan on running clear liquid so should I go with that or instead stick to DI water with something like the Biocide Extreme? Essentially what i am asking is: if I am going with clear coolant what are the best options available to me ?




Go X1 clear. No need to add anything else. Don’t think XT-1 Nuke gives better temps so it’s easier to just use X1 Clear.


----------



## crappy

So I just noticed that the impellers on my pumps are now brown, when just a year ago during the last upgrade the were still bright blue.



















It had had mayhems pastel red and then white in it, before using pastel orange for the last year (with some added silver Aurora concentrate). Before using a new coolant I've cleaned the loops thoroughly with blitz part 2. When emptying the loop of the Orange pastel there did seem to be an oily looking orange residue left behind in the pipes, but assume that's just the die? the fluid looked fine when it was draining and the tubes don't look too bad apart from some orange staining, which is to be expected









This was after the first rinse. Cpu loop on the left still has a fair bit of the pastel left in there, I've used deionised water for rinsing.

What do you recon what it could be or what might have caused it? I was using Mayhems ultra clear 13/10 tubing, all the blocks are copper, (cpu is heatkiller iv pure copper, gpu is alphacool nexos NVXP GTX760 Full Cover Copper, alphacool heatmaster 2 block and aquero block), as are the alphacool rads.


----------



## ciarlatano

crappy said:


> So I just noticed that the impellers on my pumps are now brown, when just a year ago during the last upgrade the were still bright blue.
> 
> It had had mayhems pastel red and then white in it, before using pastel orange for the last year _*(with some added silver Aurora concentrate)*_. Before using a new coolant I've cleaned the loops thoroughly with blitz part 2. When emptying the loop of the Orange pastel there did seem to be an oily looking orange residue left behind in the pipes, but assume that's just the die? the fluid looked fine when it was draining and the tubes don't look too bad apart from some orange staining, which is to be expected
> 
> 
> What do you recon what it could be or what might have caused it?


I would wager that the answer lies within your question......


----------



## skupples

ciarlatano said:


> I would wager that the answer lies within your question......


I thought all of those were stain free these days?

either way - they aren't damaged. They've just been dyed. The question is how. Ph issues? too much mixing of stuff without proper cleaning? You can't just drain & refill w/ a different color & expect good results.


----------



## crappy

ciarlatano said:


> I would wager that the answer lies within your question......


I suspect that may be it, I can see the aurora in the loop at the minute while i'm running blitz part 2 through it, even though I'd rinsed the loop a couple of times to get all the coolant out before doing so. I had asked here if it would be ok and been advised it would be, although you couldn't even tell in the end. lol



skupples said:


> I thought all of those were stain free these days?
> 
> either way - they aren't damaged. They've just been dyed. The question is how. Ph issues? too much mixing of stuff without proper cleaning? You can't just drain & refill w/ a different color & expect good results.


I didn't just drain and refill it, I clearly said that I've used blitz part 2 when changing the fluid and I used new tubing. I also stated it looked fine when draining so I did indeed have good results. "The question is how?" yes, that's my question entirely. try reading, might help.


----------



## skupples

multitask fail.


Did you test ph?


----------



## crappy

skupples said:


> multitask fail.
> 
> 
> Did you test ph?


No worries. Sorry for my short response, just on a tight timescale (for me anyway) to get it all done for thursday and definitely can't afford new pumps, so I'm a bit "arggh".

I haven't checked the pH currently, I only realised last night once the foam from the blitz had died down. I thought it looked odd and had to check back on old pictures to make sure it should be blue as I couldn’t remember. lol

I should have the pH tester in my toolbox, so I'll check the fluid that's in there now after a day and see what the old fluid is like too.


----------



## skupples

maybe the blitz pulled the color out leaving it looking "brown"? 

idk, my color perception is terrible, it almost looks like a recycled plastic color to me now.


----------



## crappy

skupples said:


> maybe the blitz pulled the color out leaving it looking "brown"?
> 
> idk, my color perception is terrible, it almost looks like a recycled plastic color to me now.


I would describe it as 'poo brown' ha ha


----------



## 414347

Fortr4n said:


> Thanks for the replies. Yes I could not exactly understand why using the kit and then flushing the system after that could still affect anything used after that. And of issues reported already on this board then i have to admit that i did not go through the 1641 pages
> As far as I understand the XT-1 Nuke is the most recently developed coolant from Mayhems. I guess in the past year and half since it came out all the kinks have been worked out? What I wanted to know is if it is ok to use it even if you do not intend to couple your loop with a chiller and run on sub ambient temperatures? I don't care much for dyes and plan on running clear liquid so should I go with that or instead stick to DI water with something like the Biocide Extreme? Essentially what i am asking is: if I am going with clear coolant what are the best options available to me ?


If you going to run Distilled Water only I would go with Mayhems new Biocide+ and Inhibitor+. It's truly amazing product that I have been using for almost 2 years now. Prior to that I have been using Biocide Extreme for many years and although all components in my loops were similar metals working nicely together e.g. radiators, blocks and fittings and I have never had issues with galvanic corrosion or slightest issues what's so ever I have always hoped that Mayhems would come up with similar product but with some anti-corrosive Inhibitor so you would be content knowing that don't matter what your precious components are in good hands. 

Also, If you would to add something new into your loop line that might not be exactly compatible with other metals you would have that comfort of knowing that you be OK.

So when Mayhems came up with this new product that in fact was in works for several months prior to release I was so exited and I was the first to try and trust me ..Its working extremely well and at least for me there is no other coolant on the market that can be a s good and effective as this one 

Keep in mind Biocide+ & Inhibitor+ it's not compatible with PETG


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> I thought all of those were stain free these days?
> 
> either way - they aren't damaged. They've just been dyed. The question is how. Ph issues? too much mixing of stuff without proper cleaning? You can't just drain & refill w/ a different color & expect good results.


Aurora is definitely not stain free, one of the reasons it is not recommended for regular usage. Even a little as a mix in can wreak havoc if left in for a while.


----------



## crappy

ciarlatano said:


> Aurora is definitely not stain free, one of the reasons it is not recommended for regular usage. Even a little as a mix in can wreak havoc if left in for a while.


Right, so general consensus seems to be: you put Aurora in and ran it for a year, you’re an eejit. lol

Ph results are in for post 24hrs of blitz. Bear in mind that it's been a fair while since it was properly calibrated, so these readings are based on me putting it I deionised water for 10 mins then setting it to 7. Gpu loop 8.4, CPU loop (which seemed to have the most coolant left in) 10. Fairly alkaline, but can't remember if that's normal? Don't want to risk testing the old coolant with the pH meter while I need it to finish the cleaning.


----------



## skupples

there ya go, aurora is the one that stains like a mofo.

only aesthetically damaged.


----------



## crappy

It's brasso. I used it to polish up my copper fittings and some other bits, mustn't have cleaned it all off properly. There was white goop in some threads, but considerably more where brasso had been used. Considering that it's amazing how well the pastel held up. Had a peek in the cpu block and the fins look fine.


----------



## skupples

In Caterpillar news - KillDozer is getting its own movie.


----------



## ezveedub

skupples said:


> In Caterpillar news - KillDozer is getting its own movie.




I saw that too, lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## ivoryg37

I wanted to make 100% sure but is Biocide+ compatible with Nickel blocks?


----------



## skupples

Yes. I believe biocide+ & inhibitor+ are compatible with pretty much everything. Unlike a couple Mayhem's products.


----------



## 414347

ivoryg37 said:


> I wanted to make 100% sure but is Biocide+ compatible with Nickel blocks?


It is 100% compatible.


----------



## Mayhem

NewUser16 said:


> If you going to run Distilled Water only I would go with Mayhems new Biocide+ and Inhibitor+. It's truly amazing product that I have been using for almost 2 years now. Prior to that I have been using Biocide Extreme for many years and although all components in my loops were similar metals working nicely together e.g. radiators, blocks and fittings and I have never had issues with galvanic corrosion or slightest issues what's so ever I have always hoped that Mayhems would come up with similar product but with some anti-corrosive Inhibitor so you would be content knowing that don't matter what your precious components are in good hands.
> 
> Also, If you would to add something new into your loop line that might not be exactly compatible with other metals you would have that comfort of knowing that you be OK.
> 
> So when Mayhems came up with this new product that in fact was in works for several months prior to release I was so exited and I was the first to try and trust me ..Its working extremely well and at least for me there is no other coolant on the market that can be a s good and effective as this one
> 
> Keep in mind Biocide+ & Inhibitor+ it's not compatible with PETG


All new version of Bio + and inhib + are PetG compatible now. I reformulated it. We use a very special additive that blocks it from entering the Plastic. The same now goes for XT1- Nuke.


----------



## Mayhem

All Mayhems coolant (premade ones at the moment) Concentrate and Premixed use our version of normal dyes. However, I've been thinking of releasing non-stain versions. The colour will be lighter than normal but we can never stop it going into Pet-G tubing only slow it down. Petg-G tubing sucks up fluid no matter what. However, we have developed a new formula currently used in XT1-Nuke, Bio + and Inhib + that prevents issues occurring and these we will look into adding into a new formulation using non-stain dyes as well.

P.s Im on a short break for a few days till the middle of next week.


----------



## ivoryg37

skupples said:


> Yes. I believe biocide+ & inhibitor+ are compatible with pretty much everything. Unlike a couple Mayhem's products.





NewUser16 said:


> It is 100% compatible.


Thanks for the information! I just wanted to be 100% sure before I add it to my loop.


----------



## 414347

Mayhem said:


> All new version of Bio + and inhib + are PetG compatible now. I reformulated it. We use a very special additive that blocks it from entering the Plastic. The same now goes for XT1- Nuke.


Yah I got the info from the compatibility sheet but that was while ago.


----------



## 414347

ivoryg37 said:


> Thanks for the information! I just wanted to be 100% sure before I add it to my loop.


You won't regret it, it's truly the best thing there is


----------



## Leonko

Mayhem said:


> All new version of Bio + and inhib + are PetG compatible now. I reformulated it. We use a very special additive that blocks it from entering the Plastic. The same now goes for XT1- Nuke.


How can I/We identify it is a new version of Nuke and bio+inhi ? i know you said they will release only when old stock run out, but how do i know it is new already?  different label ?


----------



## Leonko

also is there any problem with Mayhem X1 and dyes in Europe ? im waiting almost 3 months for Deep Red dye and X1 Clear from my supplier. and today they extended it for another month.


----------



## war4peace

European here, I ordered 3L of Mayhems Pastel Red a couple weeks ago and they delivered it to me last Wednesday. All went well.


----------



## Leonko

i know, im asking specifically about X1 and deep red. They are out of stock really like months.


----------



## Kriant

Any idea what this residue may be? Using Mayhem's Clear X1. (oxidized copper residue?)


----------



## war4peace

Is that a silver coil? Take my words with a grain of salt but AFAIK silver coils with Mayhems liquids don't go well.


----------



## skupples

there is ZERO need for a kill coil, especially when you're mixing it with coolant. It's an ancient tactic that should be killed off. I'm honestly surprised Mayhem's still sells them 

remove ASAP, & clean the living hell outta your system before it gets even weirder. 

silver coils are beyond useless, they're bad.

to what the residue actually is though, no clue. However, it shouldn't be there if you properly mixed your X1. 

I've been 100% anti-silver coils since I had a similar thing happen, except it was before jumping on the Mayhems train. X1 clear has been all my stuff has needed ever since... I just transissioned to the Biocide+inhibitor+ drops, as I was burning through TONS of coolant with the current rebuild.


----------



## 414347

war4peace said:


> Is that a silver coil? Take my words with a grain of salt but AFAIK silver coils with Mayhems liquids don't go well.


I agree. Remove that silver coil and clean your system and don't use with Mayhems premixed fluids, unless you're using only Distilled water and all copper blocks you will have issues. Silver coil works only to kill micro bacteria...still will not save you from galvanic corrosion.


----------



## 414347

skupples said:


> there is ZERO need for a kill coil, especially when you're mixing it with coolant. It's an ancient tactic that should be killed off. I'm honestly surprised Mayhem's still sells them
> 
> remove ASAP, & clean the living hell outta your system before it gets even weirder.
> 
> silver coils are beyond useless, they're bad.
> 
> to what the residue actually is though, no clue. However, it shouldn't be there if you properly mixed your X1.
> 
> I've been 100% anti-silver coils since I had a similar thing happen, except it was before jumping on the Mayhems train. X1 clear has been all my stuff has needed ever since... I just transissioned to the Biocide+inhibitor+ drops, as I was burning through TONS of coolant with the current rebuild.


I don't think he's selling it any more, it has been out of stock for months


----------



## skupples

NewUser16 said:


> I don't think hes selling it any more, it has been out of stock for months


that's good. He should even remove the listing  

silver is bad.

I don't like censorship, but we've all seen those ancient guides that recommend home made coolant, kill coils, and other insane ideas that've all proven to be a crap shoot. It's actually sad to see people still being mislead.

whoever advised "yes, mayhems + silver = good" should be banned from giving advice.


----------



## 414347

skupples said:


> I just transissioned to the Biocide+inhibitor+ drops, as I was burning through TONS of coolant with the current rebuild.



Good move I love that stuff, it works very well 

Not the best picture but this was taking after 17 months of use with Biocide+ and Inhibitor+. Water was still absolutely crystal clear and when I took one of the GPU blocks apart I was shocked to see totally clean, also thermals where unchanged from the day I filled the loops, supper good stuff.

BTW. this time I'm leaving my water in freshly refilled loops for 24 months, it seems that this will be no problem


----------



## skupples

NewUser16 said:


> Good move I love that stuff, it works very well


so incredibly cost effective, and actually works unlike most everyone else's.


----------



## 414347

skupples said:


> so incredibly cost effective, and actually works unlike most everyone else's.


Absolutely. I've used Biocide Extreme in the past and although it was great and I have never had single issue but using Biocidde+ with Inhibitor+ gives you piece of mind knowing that not only you get protection from microorganism but also protection from corrosion, can't ask for better coolant then that


----------



## skupples

the longest I went was 5 years on X1 clear, which became more and more diluted over time as I topped off the res. Still no issues.


----------



## 414347

5 years, that is insanely long but also impressive. I think the longest I will go between changes will be 24 months. Reason I changed it after 17 months because this was the first time I've used this product and I want to see how well it worked and since I know it works very well the next liquid change will be in 2022


----------



## skupples

I'm aiming for the same time line this time.

I'm not changing a damn thing until the GPU release after the new consoles come.


----------



## 414347

From talking to Mick and the description of the Biocide+ & Inhibitor+ it sounds that you can go as far is 5 years before liquid changes, just keep on adding single drop or 2 drops every 3 months depending on the amount of liquid your loop(s) holds. What I do is, my each loop hold 1.6L so I add 2 drops of each every 3 months, if your loop(s) holds 1L or less, single drop is enough every 3 months.


----------



## skupples

I'm around 3 liters - she holds almost a gallon.


----------



## war4peace

Same here but using Mayhems Pastel White. I bled my machine quite a few times and poured the liquid into a clean bottle, then refilled using the same liquid, topping up if needed. Liquid looks awesome and no performance issues seen so far, going almost 2 years.
That's not because I'm cheap or anything, I just didn't want to throw away perfectly good liquid for no reason.


----------



## skupples

definitely isn't cheep.

I switched to the drops after blowing through $100 worth of X1.

First, because I wasn't aware of the incorrect labeling telling you to use 2x the normal amount, n second because I made that mistake twice after waking up to all my water on the floor. 

so no more X1 for me until these little droppers are gone, which should be about a decade. That mislabeling still rubs me the wrong way, tbh.... stuff happens i suppose.


----------



## 414347

skupples said:


> I'm around 3 liters - she holds almost a gallon.


That's a quite a bit as well, more reason for us to use Biocide+ & Inhibitor+. If for any reason you need to drain the liquid, no worries about refilling with new one


----------



## skupples

yep, and no more cheep booze smell 

the secret of X1? It's just moonshine!


----------



## 414347

skupples said:


> yep, and no more cheep booze smell
> 
> the secret of X1? It's just moonshine!


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> yep, and no more cheep booze smell
> 
> 
> 
> the secret of X1? It's just moonshine!




So that’s what that smell is. I’ve always hated that smell after filling my loop, takes weeks to fully go away.


----------



## pompss

Quick Question For Mick.
Can i leave blitz part 2 with the pump off (water not running ) in the system for like 4 days?
i'm waiting for some parts and I cant flush it with DI water bc of the algae issue and i cant fill with new coolant yet.


----------



## annul

Sorry if that has already been asked, but where are you all ordering Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ from? I'm located in the US and I see that Performance PCs stocks Inhibitor+ but not Biocide+.

EDIT: I guess I didn't look closely enough, since PPCS does have it in stock.


----------



## 414347

annul said:


> Sorry if that has already been asked, but where are you all ordering Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ from? I'm located in the US and I see that Performance PCs stocks Inhibitor+ but not Biocide+.
> 
> EDIT: I guess I didn't look closely enough, since PPCS does have it in stock.


I get mine directly from Mayhems, Its fairly inexpensive shipping and it takes a week, maybe 8-9 days to get right to my house door steps.


----------



## SolarNova

NewUser16 said:


> Good move I love that stuff, it works very well
> 
> Not the best picture but this was taking after 17 months of use with Biocide+ and Inhibitor+. Water was still absolutely crystal clear and when I took one of the GPU blocks apart I was shocked to see totally clean, also thermals where unchanged from the day I filled the loops, supper good stuff.
> 
> BTW. this time I'm leaving my water in freshly refilled loops for 24 months, it seems that this will be no problem


I just pulled out my 780classi from my loop to replace it with a 1080ti.

I have not flushed my loop for about 4 years. Using Mayhems Distilled + Biocide.

Now i do use Monsoon fittings, which iirc may be silver plated, cant recall tbh. And i did not use any corrosion inhibitor.

That said my water is still crystal clear, but the old block was corroded. Surface corrosion, the nickel plating will likely be gone underneath it if i clean it up. but nothing bad, no particles, no fin blockages , nothing. The white residue is likely a slight leaching effect from my white soft tubing, after 4 years im not surprised tbh, but it comes of rather easily. Just 'looks' bad.

If ur using clear blocks, i would keep an eye on it, maybe every 6 months to see if any corrosion starts appearing, it they are opaque like mine then yea 2 years should be fine.


----------



## 414347

SolarNova said:


> I just pulled out my 780classi from my loop to replace it with a 1080ti.
> 
> I have not flushed my loop for about 4 years. Using Mayhems Distilled + Biocide.
> 
> Now i do use Monsoon fittings, which iirc may be silver plated, cant recall tbh. And i did not use any corrosion inhibitor.
> 
> That said my water is still crystal clear, but the old block was corroded. Surface corrosion, the nickel plating will likely be gone underneath it if i clean it up. but nothing bad, no particles, no fin blockages , nothing. The white residue is likely a slight leaching effect from my white soft tubing, after 4 years im not surprised tbh, but it comes of rather easily. Just 'looks' bad.
> 
> If ur using clear blocks, i would keep an eye on it, maybe every 6 months to see if any corrosion starts appearing, it they are opaque like mine then yea 2 years should be fine.


I wouldn't run Distilled with Mayhems Biocide for straight 2 years, Mayhems Extreme have no inhibitors whatsoever and even thou you might have similar metals and they would work together nicely, Mayhems Extreme has acidic solution to keep micro bacteria away and while it works well, overtime creates white residue that if you don't flush it out it crystallizes and that with soft tubing can be a problem.

When using Biocide Extreme its recommended to change water every 12 months to avoid this. 

Your blocks micro channel looks clogged, that is probably some from plasticizer, some from crystallization and I think there is some galvanic corrosion, although it's not that horrible really...4 years!!! that's darn long timer and tbh. could be much, much worse. 

I don't know if you have seen that, but check it out: https://www.overclock.net/forum/26123805-post14948.html

About 2 years ago I posted my results after using Mayhems Biocide Extreme with distilled water and Heatkiller waterblocks. I have run that for 2 years but not straight, although 24/7 straight for a 1 year then I did quick flash with Blitz#2, refill and run full year again hashing and crunching code 24/7

As you can see, the block looked like brand new, in facts I'm using the same block today with Mayhems new Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ on my test bench and this is the block that was running for 17 months straight 24/7 without changing the water in between and about months or so ago when I took that block apart to see the results It looked exactly the same as on that picture I was absolutely impressed, not only with Heatkillers Nickel Plating but with Mayhems Biocide+ & Inhibitor+. If you want to run liquids for much longer you need metal inhibitors, there is no way getting around that...... 

I'm confident that this time I can keep the same distilled water with Mayhems Biocide + & Inhibitor + ruining straight for 24 months. It will be a long while (24 months), but this time once I dismantle my system and GPU blocks I will post the results.


----------



## ciarlatano

With all of the talk of Inhibitor+ plus Biocide+ here, I'm curious. I'm about due for a liquid change, so what does this combo get me over my usual routine? Typically, I use X1 Clear, and change out every 12-18 months with a Blitz 2 treatment done at the time of refill. All of my blocks are clear, so I can see if I need to clean them (only happened once when I tried a different fluid and got growth in a couple of months). For three years plus, this routine has been great for me, as well as in a dozen or so builds I have done for others. So, what advantage would I see, if any?

@Mayhem - could you provide some insight?


----------



## SolarNova

NewUser16 said:


> Your blocks micro channel looks clogged, that is probably some from plasticizer, some from crystallization a
> I


As i mentioned, the fins are clear obstruction I assure you. I made sure to check.


----------



## 414347

ciarlatano said:


> With all of the talk of Inhibitor+ plus Biocide+ here, I'm curious. I'm about due for a liquid change, so what does this combo get me over my usual routine? Typically, I use X1 Clear, and change out every 12-18 months with a Blitz 2 treatment done at the time of refill. All of my blocks are clear, so I can see if I need to clean them (only happened once when I tried a different fluid and got growth in a couple of months). For three years plus, this routine has been great for me, as well as in a dozen or so builds I have done for others. So, what advantage would I see, if any?
> 
> @Mayhem - could you provide some insight?


Use what works for you. I have used ton of different products in the past and I am very picky when comes to clarity of "Clear liquids" e.g. Long time ago I have used Dazmode protector (ethanol glycol mixture} ..It creates small while flakes of clumps and the water is not always totally clear. I have used X1 once or twice and although it works well, on occasions it tends to shift the color to yellowish, no big deal to most people, but to me its deal breaker, also it has smell to it, not anything intrusive. One last thing which is no big deal, If I'm not mistaking its recommended to change X1 between 9-12 months ,which is not a bad thing, I've seen some people running it for much longer without any issues. I have also used primochill and few other brands some were OK but I wasn't to impressed. 

I'm using Biocide + & Inhibitor + for few reasons..It's totally clear (love that part) its absolutely odourless and you can keep on adding it to your water without changing liquid for 2-3-4 even 5 years depending on few condition: If your system is exposed to direct sunlight, if it was fairly clean prior to you using Biocide+ & Inhibitor+

One other benefit, If you follow instructions, these 2 small 15 ml bottles will last you 2-4 years , its very effective and easy on your packet solution. 

Again, this is only my personal preference, use what works for you. I have been using Mayhems concentrated drops for may years and that have worked great for me.

Believe it, but I'm still using blocks in my older system that have been used for 6-7 years and they look freakishly new and all thanks to Mayhems drops in combinations with Blitz#2 as a occasional cleaner even thou you don't really needed with clean liquids



SolarNova said:


> As i mentioned, the fins are clear obstruction I assure you. I made sure to check.



I wasn't disagreeing with you, I was saying, your block doesn't look bad considering you kept the same liquid for 4 years with Biocide only and not having any metal Inhibitors!! its asking for trouble. Copper sulfide needs to be flashed out while is still in liquid form, otherwise the blue residue is most likely the side effect.

I was responding to this "If ur using clear blocks, i would keep an eye on it, maybe every 6 months to see if any corrosion starts appearing, it they are opaque like mine then yea 2 years should be fine" 

I was only giving you my experience with Biocide Extreme back the days I was using it. 

I already tested my blocks with this new Mayhems Biocide+ & Inhibitor+ for 17 months straight. I was saying that from my testing this time I know I can keep this liquid solution in my system for at least 24 months, I don't like to go longer than that but now with the addition of inhibitor+ who knows I might go longer.

Btw. I forgot to ask just for my curiosity, before you changed this block did you know this any flow rate or temps degradation or did you discover that only due to you upgrading your GPU, otherwise would you know this accumulation in your block.


----------



## skupples

seems someone missed the class on needing anti-corrosion properties as well.


----------



## ryan92084

SolarNova said:


> I just pulled out my 780classi from my loop to replace it with a 1080ti.
> 
> I have not flushed my loop for about 4 years. Using Mayhems Distilled + Biocide.
> 
> Now i do use Monsoon fittings, which iirc may be silver plated, cant recall tbh. And i did not use any corrosion inhibitor.
> 
> That said my water is still crystal clear, but the old block was corroded. Surface corrosion, the nickel plating will likely be gone underneath it if i clean it up. but nothing bad, no particles, no fin blockages , nothing. The white residue is likely a slight leaching effect from my white soft tubing, after 4 years im not surprised tbh, but it comes of rather easily. Just 'looks' bad.
> 
> If ur using clear blocks, i would keep an eye on it, maybe every 6 months to see if any corrosion starts appearing, it they are opaque like mine then yea 2 years should be fine.


Looks pretty good considering the age. My second hand ek block lost way more plating than that after just going a round with blitz pt.2. The powdery white is what I associate with tubing subject to platicizer leach. The turquoise is odd unless you ran some sort of dye previously. If you decide to clean it I'd be curious to see the results.


----------



## skupples

ryan92084 said:


> Looks pretty good considering the age. My second hand ek block lost way more plating than that after just going a round with blitz pt.2. The powdery white is what I associate with tubing subject to platicizer leach. The turquoise is odd unless you ran some sort of dye previously. If you decide to clean it I'd be curious to see the results.


I just drained 6 years of X1, and had zero of the white stuff, which I'm pretty sure is actually from corrosion. Not plasticizer. Surprisingly enough, somehow i had next to zero leaching from my white ADV LRT. My CPU block was nearly sparkling clean minus a mild patina & some fuzz.

plated blocks need anti-corrosion even more than non-plated blocks. I learned this back in the day w/ during the original nickle flaking scandals. back when people still debated the need for anti-corrosion


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> I just drained 6 years of X1, and had zero of the white stuff, which I'm pretty sure is actually from corrosion. Not plasticizer. Surprisingly enough, somehow i had next to zero leaching from my white ADV LRT. My CPU block was nearly sparkling clean minus a mild patina & some fuzz.
> 
> plated blocks need anti-corrosion even more than non-plated blocks. I learned this back in the day w/ during the original nickle flaking scandals. back when people still debated the need for anti-corrosion


This is the same result I am getting with X1. My blocks all look close to brand new after several years. I'm using Tygon A-60-G, so no plasticizer issues to worry about.


----------



## skupples

yeah, that block would'a still been sparkling if he would'a added anti-corrosion something or other.


----------



## ryan92084

skupples said:


> I just drained 6 years of X1, and had zero of the white stuff, which I'm pretty sure is actually from corrosion. Not plasticizer. Surprisingly enough, somehow i had next to zero leaching from my white ADV LRT. My CPU block was nearly sparkling clean minus a mild patina & some fuzz.
> 
> plated blocks need anti-corrosion even more than non-plated blocks. I learned this back in the day w/ during the original nickle flaking scandals. back when people still debated the need for anti-corrosion


White powdery residue is generally from the tubes or rad crud depending on the makeup. I'd wager that if they split open one of the old tubes there would be the same residue coating the insides.


----------



## SolarNova

ryan92084 said:


> Looks pretty good considering the age. My second hand ek block lost way more plating than that after just going a round with blitz pt.2. The powdery white is what I associate with tubing subject to platicizer leach. The turquoise is odd unless you ran some sort of dye previously. If you decide to clean it I'd be curious to see the results.


I think the turquoise is copper corrosion, whats likely happened is the nickel has come of slightly the copper underneath has started to corrode.
Never used any dye and there is no residue other than the thin layer of white, which what ever the source, isn't dense enough to cause any clogging.

I likely wont bother cleaning it, i don't plan to use it again and don't intend on trying to sell it, would not be worth it to be honest.


When i rebuild my system this week (changing cases) ill add some corrosion inhibitor, ill be pulling my CPU block apart as well, that likely wont be much better , it being and EK block as well (Supremacy Evo), ill likely give my rads a flush with a vinegar solution as well..maybe.


----------



## ryan92084

SolarNova said:


> I think the turquoise is copper corrosion, whats likely happened is the nickel has come of slightly the copper underneath has started to corrode.
> Never used any dye and there is no residue other than the thin layer of white, which what ever the source, isn't dense enough to cause any clogging.
> 
> I likely wont bother cleaning it, i don't plan to use it again and don't intend on trying to sell it, would not be worth it to be honest.
> 
> 
> When i rebuild my system this week (changing cases) ill add some corrosion inhibitor, ill be pulling my CPU block apart as well, that likely wont be much better , it being and EK block as well (Supremacy Evo), ill likely give my rads a flush with a vinegar solution as well..maybe.


Ah it didn't look that substantial, always hard to tell with pictures. Fairly odd to see verdigris/copper carbonate form in an active loop generally we see the blackened copper oxide.


----------



## skupples

hm, i guess I've just gotten lucky with my LRT over the years. I've never had anything ever look remotely close to that, even before I started acid bathing radiators... However, I've never dared to run without proper additives for more than a couple days, due to the crazy stuff we saw in shop during two years @ tech school. I always just applied the principles of a car cooling system to my PC  

we'll know more if we get to see a post scrub down shot. most plasticizer should clean off, whereas heavy corrosion, or depositing actually damages the surface of the metal, leaving clear abrasions after cleaning. The fact zero anti-corrosion was present for so many years means his water essentially turned into acid. Which probably doesn't help with plasticizer leaching either. 

A properly maintained block should wipe down to a nice layer of patina. I definitely see some corrosion, and as dude stated. weird things happen when the plating starts to come off.


----------



## SolarNova

A done a very quick scrub with a toothbrush and toothpaste.

As you can see it was indeed copper verdigris, anywhere there is the "turquoise" discoloring there is bare copper underneath.

Could still probably bring it up to a good finish with a dremill polishing tool, but like i said, i am not using it so just gunna leave it.


----------



## skupples

thanks for that. 

it happens, nickel plating is delicate. You've really gotta have a super stupid clean system for it to age well. I stopped giving a damn what I put in my system, as long as it works. I've got two different 1080ti generation blocks on atm, RGB & original 1080TI block. 

I'm hoping the issues i'm having aren't water damage, but just trying to use a 16x x16 & 16x x4 slot for two cards like a total nub.


----------



## 414347

SolarNova said:


> As i mentioned, the fins are clear obstruction I assure you. I made sure to check.


I don't know what on earth I was thinking, honestly I think I'm overworked and under slept I have totally misunderstood you. I'm looking at your org. pic. and how on earth I so the fins being clogged when they are obviously not, for some absurd reason I was staring at the top part of the block as if the other piece wasn't there.

4 years on the same Distilled with Biocide Only!!! that block still looks freakishly good. I could see where you can pull that off with X1 or other premixed fluids that already have all necessary additives but on Biocide only


----------



## ryan92084

SolarNova said:


> A done a very quick scrub with a toothbrush and toothpaste.
> 
> As you can see it was indeed copper verdigris, anywhere there is the "turquoise" discoloring there is bare copper underneath.
> 
> Could still probably bring it up to a good finish with a dremill polishing tool, but like i said, i am not using it so just gunna leave it.


I appreciate the follow up and I'm still surprised by the verdigris. Do you tend to rinse your parts with vinegar? If so I wonder if it could have gone copper acetate.

Regardless thanks for the sample.


----------



## SolarNova

ryan92084 said:


> I appreciate the follow up and I'm still surprised by the verdigris. Do you tend to rinse your parts with vinegar? If so I wonder if it could have gone copper acetate.
> 
> Regardless thanks for the sample.


Funny u mention vinegar, no i dont. The rads were bought new then thoroughly flushed will boiled water many times, then distilled, proir to final assembly. 

Now sinse this dissasembly i have soaked and flush the rads with vinegar. It came out dark green so...yea. Anyway they were then flushed with a sodium solution (baking powder) to neutralize, then flush again with water. Once the waterloop is back together ill do a run with distilled, then empty, then refill finaly with more distiled.
I have biocide AND inhibitor this time and can test ph to ensure its correct.

Rebuild on pause atm as i have had to order a vertical gpu mount as it turned out the photon res/pump was to close to the gpu fitting to work in standard orientation...plus gpu will look better vertical.

I also have pic of cpu block, cant post yet, it wasnt as bad as gpu but the surface the o-ring sits on is rough and the nickel is pealing, i may need to sand the surface down to copper if the o-ring does not seal, will find out when i leak test.


----------



## SolarNova

Here is the pic of my CPU block.

Much more 'gunked' up than the GPU, but cleaned up better, forgot to take an after pic but it turned out ok, the worst area was where the o-ring sat, the nickel plating was flaking of leaving an rough surface, did think i might need to sand it down, but leak testing turned out fine.

System is together now. See pic.
Was a bloody nightmare, took well over a week mainly due to waiting on things to arrive. (GPU mount, then i ended up needing more distilled)

Me wanting the Res at the rear meant I ended up needing to get a vertical GPU mount as the res fitting and GPU fitting were to close, ofc i couldnt just get a 'normal' mount as i needed space for my sound card, ended up getting the Kaislin mount as it had much more adjustability than others available. Then i found out i had a similar spacing problem with the GPU to CPU fittings, this time the angle the tubing needed to bend, thankfully using my 2 90 fittings allowed for a straight run, though they look rather odd imo.

Despite having 5 more fans than my old system, its just as quiet, though the pump is a tad noisier now as it isn't as isolated from the case as in my last build. Previously it was attached via some foam padding to a L bracket, which was attached via foam padding to a wood block/spacer which was attached via foam padding to the bottom of my case. Now its just got 1 thin layer of foam ~1mm thick, between the stock bracket and the back of my case. 
That said , its not an annoying sound, a low hum barely audible over ambient noises, and this is at its max setting of 5. All the fans are running roughly 900-1000 RPM.


For those interested, Mayhems distilled seems to be slightly acidic, using their own litmus test it turns out a solid yellow ~ph4, their biocide is heavily acidic ~ph 1-2. So i was running an overly acidic liquid all this time. Now thanks to the Mayhems inhibitor, which is heavily Alkali at ~ ph9-10, i was able to bring the ph to around 5-6, still not ideal (6-8) but better than it was, i didn't want to add loads of inhibitor as its meant to only need 1-2 drop per liter, and i ended up using quite a bit more than that to get the PH i higher.


----------



## BradleyW

Mayhems pure h2O is acidic? Oh no, i use it with my car coolant. I just thought it was regular distilled. Can someone from Mayhems chip in?


----------



## Mordorr

I use car product + distilled for more 10 years and no problems....
My old Apogge GT and Inovatek Rev 3 inside look like new.....


----------



## Zfast4y0u

hello, i would like to ask whats the difference between mayhems x1 concentrate blood red https://www.caseking.de/mayhems-x1-konzentrat-blood-red-250ml-wazu-469.html

and mayhems x1 blood red https://www.caseking.de/mayhems-x1-blood-red-1000ml-wazu-280.html

i imagine the first one is mixed with distilled water and what you get is this mayhems x1 blood red?

mayhems x1 blood red( second link i put ) is already pre mixed and all you need to do is put it in system, correct?


----------



## Shawnb99

Zfast4y0u said:


> hello, i would like to ask whats the difference between mayhems x1 concentrate blood red https://www.caseking.de/mayhems-x1-konzentrat-blood-red-250ml-wazu-469.html
> 
> and mayhems x1 blood red https://www.caseking.de/mayhems-x1-blood-red-1000ml-wazu-280.html
> 
> i imagine the first one is mixed with distilled water and what you get is this mayhems x1 blood red?
> 
> mayhems x1 blood red( second link i put ) is already pre mixed and all you need to do is put it in system, correct?


Correct


----------



## SolarNova

BradleyW said:


> Mayhems pure h2O is acidic? Oh no, i use it with my car coolant. I just thought it was regular distilled. Can someone from Mayhems chip in?


Its advertised as neutral (7), when i tested it with litmus, (mayhems own litmus i may add) it was yellow (4). I was surprised, i expected green (6-7) so i tested again .. and again. I tested my old batch of Pure H20 from mayhems, and a brand new 5 liter direct form mayhems, both the same.

Its possible my litmus , being old, is off but i find it unlikely as it correctly indicated both the Biocide as acidic, and Inhibitor as Alkali.


I just suggest people get into the habit of Ph testing their liquids.


----------



## skupples

how old are the test strips? They don't age well. I learned this first hand when I switched from a liquid pool test kit, to test strips. They still work, but accuracy diminishes. Straight from the horses mouth @ the pool store when I was confused by their test results, vs. my strip.


----------



## SolarNova

skupples said:


> how old are the test strips? They don't age well. I learned this first hand when I switched from a liquid pool test kit, to test strips. They still work, but accuracy diminishes. Straight from the horses mouth @ the pool store when I was confused by their test results, vs. my strip.


A good 4 years old iirc.

I know they can become inaccurate over time, but wouldn't have thought they would be THAT inaccurate. Especially considering they accurately measured the Mayhems Biocide at 1-2 which makes sense since its a Citric Acid base.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems ultra pure straight out of the bottle will be slightly acidic until air gets to it, remember everything is removed from the water so it will need to pull some of that back in. Once air hits it, it will stabilise. Your PH strips are no good with ultrapure water as they will read wrong. Add in the coolant (or inhibitor) and you'll see it goes back to normal PH limits. It just takes time.


----------



## skupples

and this is why even though I could cut automotive coolant 20/80, i still stick to mayhem's


----------



## BradleyW

I'm glad about the Mayhems Pure H2O being neutral/safe. I use it in my car, mixed with OAT Red coolant. Thought I'd change the coolant anyway seen as I replaced the entire thermostat housing.


----------



## 414347

skupples said:


> and this is why even though I could cut automotive coolant 20/80, i still stick to mayhem's


Yap


----------



## Mayhem

Well i run pastel in my car coolant and have been for 6 years now. But I could never sell it as a car coolant because I just simply would not expect others to take such risks. However, i do not care . The new 2d nano coolant we have made only a few weeks ago went into our home cooling and our home heats up fast as hell but also cools down just as fast. I only do it out of "what if" type synaro ... its all fun to me and well also interesting.


----------



## ezveedub

Pure water with 0 TDS always tends to read lower than 7 and more acidic until it mixed with something or has additives added. I’ve noticed that years ago when having salt water tanks fish tanks needing RO/DI water for mixing salt water. Anyway, this was some X1 coolant that was mixed with steam distilled water I recently drained from a PC after about 2 weeks to add a GPU in the loop. If you’re using an electronic PH meter, make sure you calibrate them, as my old PH meter was way off initially before calibration. It read 5.6 PH before calibrating it. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## BradleyW

Is there any advantage of using XT-1 over X1?


----------



## skupples

BradleyW said:


> Is there any advantage of using XT-1 over X1?


well... are you trying to cool heavy science machinery such as lasers? 

if no, I'd honestly just go with the drops at this point, much more cost effective.

 however, I love the added benefit of UV's built in leak awareness.



Mayhem said:


> Well i run pastel in my car coolant and have been for 6 years now. But I could never sell it as a car coolant because I just simply would not expect others to take such risks. However, i do not care . The new 2d nano coolant we have made only a few weeks ago went into our home cooling and our home heats up fast as hell but also cools down just as fast. I only do it out of "what if" type synaro ... its all fun to me and well also interesting.




I lost you at home heating & cooling... do you have a solar panel water system or something?


----------



## Mayhem

skupples said:


> well... are you trying to cool heavy science machinery such as lasers?
> 
> if no, I'd honestly just go with the drops at this point, much more cost effective.
> 
> however, I love the added benefit of UV's built in leak awareness.
> 
> 
> I lost you at home heating & cooling... do you have a solar panel water system or something?


We run a loop for the central heating and we added the new pastel to it (inline) and drained out the old water. Our home is much better for it, but i do not advise anyone to follow suit. We do not know the long term issues or benefits of it, it's just a fun experiment nothing more for the moment. Also, It's an R&D thing.


----------



## firewrath9

2 things:
1, How long would Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O last, in storage, as the 5l bottle is only 3 times more expensive, thus better value, and I'll use it to rinse the loop.
2: If I'm going to use Mayhems Pastel White (for a new loop), should I rinse the loop with Ultra Pure H2O, or is just tap water fine?


----------



## skupples

i believe they typically recommend using blitz to clean your system before using any of the dyes. 

the dyes are sensitive, Ph, n other things can cause color shift, n other wacky things.


----------



## firewrath9

its for a new loop, should I still use blitz?


----------



## Shawnb99

firewrath9 said:


> its for a new loop, should I still use blitz?




Brand new Radiators then yeah run blitz 1 and 2. If they aren’t new you can get away with a flush of water and vinegar then running part 2.


----------



## firewrath9

So Blitz Pro + Distilled water? (Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O)?


----------



## Shawnb99

Then yeah I’d recommend running the Blitz pro and flushing with distilled or Pure H20 whatever’s cheaper.
Just make sure you fully flush out part 2 before you add your pastel


----------



## skupples

distilled is usually a dollar or less a gallon, specially in the 6 packs. 

I love Mayhem's but if you live somewhere with decent infrastructure, the store-bought distilled should be cheep & fine.

example - my local store sells Distilled and de-ionized water, in the same bottle! ( I live in florida, old people use lots of fancy water in their devices)


----------



## firewrath9

k, thats what I'll be doing.
as for the store distilled water, I'd rather spend 15$ for 5l and be safe, then 5$ for 5l, and sorry.
Also, I'm supporting Mayhem, as apparently they make the fluid in their lab, in the UK.


----------



## skupples

yep, mick's legit.

+1


----------



## BradleyW

Got my Mayhems UV blue in the loop. First time using coloured coolant (in a PC any way).


----------



## Mayhem

Its been a While Just some updates for you all.

1) Mayhems has expanded and we now have a second place and rebuilt the lab from the ground up.
2) We have 1/2 the new factory in place. I say half we have a new Boxing system, capping system, labelling and marking system just awaiting the new bottling system to come.

There will be supply issues for a small amount of time while we re-gear up.

We are going to stop making 100ml versions of stuff and concentrate on 250ml, 1 Ltr and 5 Ltr. We Are also looking at releasing some new products.


----------



## war4peace

Any news on the Thermaltake Aurora copyright issue? I have stopped using any Thermaltake products since I heard of it, so I am curious what's the status with that one.


----------



## 414347

Congrats Mick, nice to see you doing well  




war4peace said:


> Any news on the Thermaltake Aurora copyright issue? I have stopped using any Thermaltake products since I heard of it, so I am curious what's the status with that one.




Yap..I have stopped using TT way before that and wherever I can I try to advise ppl not to get any of TT products, they are shameless company and I will not support that and never will , they are none existent to me


----------



## skupples

indeed, if you want CL clones, go with lian li.


----------



## Vlada011

I use Mayhem Ultra Clear Tubing and Mayhem X1 Coolant, now I see they make and Borosilicate Glass Tubes.
Is it every hard fitting model compatible with glass tubes if diameter match or people use some special for Glass tubes?

I think to order this Mayhem Blitz Kit from Caseking before they sold everything.
If I saw good on video clips one bottle is for radiator and one for cleaning loop/system.
And looks like have to clean 3-4 radiators and 2-3 times to clean whole systems, correct?


----------



## Mayhem

Vlada011 said:


> I use Mayhem Ultra Clear Tubing and Mayhem X1 Coolant, now I see they make and Borosilicate Glass Tubes.
> Is it every hard fitting model compatible with glass tubes if diameter match or people use some special for Glass tubes?
> 
> I think to order this Mayhem Blitz Kit from Caseking before they sold everything.
> If I saw good on video clips one bottle is for radiator and one for cleaning loop/system.
> And looks like have to clean 3-4 radiators and 2-3 times to clean whole systems, correct?


Yes, you can clean several rads all in one go.


----------



## Mayhem

Just a couple of Pic's of what weve installed so far. More to come.


----------



## dwolvin

New logo?


----------



## skupples

newest logo.

Some spots are still pushing out inventory from before the change.


----------



## Mayhem

The logo is a second Logo created for us by Toby Kirby a while back and it's been used on our rads in the past.

No bottles or products have gone out to resellers and this is just a refresh, were still WIP and are awaiting everything coming altogether. Its been a lot of hard work at this end and I still have weeks of work left.

To puit it simple rebooting is not easy when you have to do it all by your self.


----------



## Mayhem

Update ->

Hi Sorry I have not been around for such a long time.

Mayhems has been going so massive changes and upgrades as of late. Over the last 10 years of Mayhems, we have always done all coolants by hand, Yes I mean everything from the mixing to bottling, labelling and everything. Over the last few months, I have invested heavily in upgrading Mayhems to a new factory automation line. We are about halfway through the upgrade process and still have a little more to do.

     

Due to the new factory line, some other major changes are going to happen.

We will no longer be making 100ml bottles.
We will only be making 150ml, 250ml, 1000ml and 5000ml
All 100ml Coolants once sold off will no longer be made (get them while you can) they are all EOL.
Mayhems Pastel Extreme is now EOL
Dyes will still be hand made for now until we can afford a new system to do them.
New bottles, New stickers, New dating system is being introduced.
New Barcodes are being introduced slowly.
New boxes, new logos and new designs are rolling out across the line.
New colours are being introduced.
New QC controls are being introduced.
ISO 9001 Standards are being implemented and worked towards.
The new testing regime is being implemented.
Photos of the new testing, QC control, Dev Room.

  

It will take time for us to get everything sorted out so you may find some resellers will be out of stock of some item as we work to get back up to normal. Please be patient as we are trying our best to keep up.

We also have been hosting visitors from some rather large Bluechip companies the last few weeks, whom have complimented us on our R&D Work and have said via there own testing our R&D and Products simply are the best on the market. These companies are not new to the game and are now partnering up with us and helping us expand into new liquid cooling areas of the market.

I would personally Like to thank everyone for there support over the years and all of this is possible because of you Guys and Girls and companies like Overclockers and all their staff who have stood by us and helped us over the years. I would also Like to Thank My partner Sylvia who unbeknown to many is a pillar of Mayhems and one of the hardest and most forgiving people I know and the rest of my staff who all have worked tirelessly and hard to help move things forward.

Onwards and upwards! I love my hobby (yes I still consider my job my hobby).

Mick

Aka Michael Wood, Director, Owner of Mayhems Solutions Ltd UK


----------



## skupples

a vacuum oven (autoclave) would sure make my hobby easier too


----------



## Mayhem

Nothing like drying, out wet parts


----------



## skupples

indeed, and SOO GOOD at forcing liquid form gasses to evaporate.


----------



## ciarlatano

Just drained my loop and checked my blocks after 18 months since last fill with X1 Clear - so now about three years of X1 in this loop. Everything still looks like the day it came out of the box, and this is after the loop got totally gunked up right after being built from algae while using a different coolant. After using so many other coolants and having some kind of issue with every one, it's so good to have a product out there that does what it is supposed to every time. I'm never straying from Mayhems again.


----------



## 414347

ciarlatano said:


> Just drained my loop and checked my blocks after 18 months since last fill with X1 Clear - so now about three years of X1 in this loop. Everything still looks like the day it came out of the box, and this is after the loop got totally gunked up right after being built from algae while using a different coolant. After using so many other coolants and having some kind of issue with every one, it's so good to have a product out there that does what it is supposed to every time. I'm never straying from Mayhems again.


Nice. 
I use only Mayhems and all of my blocks always look like new


----------



## Leonko

guys i have a big dilema 

bits silver shinning + x1 clear and red light
bits deep blood red + x1 clear + deep red dye and white light


----------



## Deedaz

Leonko said:


> guys i have a big dilema
> 
> bits silver shinning + x1 clear and red light
> bits deep blood red + x1 clear + deep red dye and white light


I would go with white lighting either way to show off the hardware better.


----------



## skupples

speaking of white lighting - 

there was a lighted sign box in the dumpster @ work the other day, but someone had already grabbed it by the time I was omw out  

I asked the guy in charge of the re-construction & he informed me there's a nearly 3'x4' still sitting in storage, likely to be never used again. 

It would be a ton of work, but an epic project for an on-wall build.


----------



## Mayhem

Cats out the bag, As stated on kitguru Mayhems is working with Corsair and supplied all their fluids for there new Hydro X series. Now you know why I have been so bizzy. https://www.kitguru.net/components/...liquid-cooling-range-has-officially-launched/ ....


----------



## Leonko

awesome news !  thats very gerat accomplishment. good for you


----------



## skupples

damn Mick, extremely happy for you! That's amazing.

Their AIO consumers need to be incredibly happy that you don't hold many grudges


----------



## ciarlatano

Mayhem said:


> Cats out the bag, As stated on kitguru Mayhems is working with Corsair and supplied all their fluids for there new Hydro X series. Now you know why I have been so bizzy. https://www.kitguru.net/components/...liquid-cooling-range-has-officially-launched/ ....


Congrats!


----------



## Mayhem

skupples said:


> damn Mick, extremely happy for you! That's amazing.
> 
> Their AIO consumers need to be incredibly happy that you don't hold many grudges


PMSL

Well there is a lot of work going on and a lot of rebranding, remixing, new formulas ect ect. There isn't be much stock of mayhems soon due to updates and upgrades and also were moving again as our factory is not big enough to accommodate us any more. We now have new factory lines, new forklifts, pallet wrappers the list goes on but you'll see it all changing soon.


----------



## vicyo

Does anyone knows if the swiftech Clear HydrX XT1 that comes with the DYI Drive X3 is the same thing as the Mayhems XT1 or XT1-Nuke?


----------



## Zammin

Mayhem said:


> Cats out the bag, As stated on kitguru Mayhems is working with Corsair and supplied all their fluids for there new Hydro X series. Now you know why I have been so bizzy. https://www.kitguru.net/components/...liquid-cooling-range-has-officially-launched/ ....


Congrats, yeah many of us noticed they are using mostly other manufacturers stuff for their custom cooling line (Bitspower fittings, HW labs rads, also some EK made parts according to some of the youtube vids). 

Are you able to say if the Corsair coolants are just rebranded Mayhems X1? Or is it a different formula?


----------



## rolandos582

Any Mayhems X1 - Black / Red users in here? How is it looking real life and how does it look after 6 to 12 months? I'm switching from EK pastel and wanna compare the both.

And how does Mayhems X1 compare to pastel?


----------



## Mayhem

Zammin said:


> Congrats, yeah many of us noticed they are using mostly other manufacturers stuff for their custom cooling line (Bitspower fittings, HW labs rads, also some EK made parts according to some of the youtube vids).
> 
> Are you able to say if the Corsair coolants are just rebranded Mayhems X1? Or is it a different formula?


Formulas for each company is NDA sorry guys.


----------



## Zammin

Mayhem said:


> Formulas for each company is NDA sorry guys.


Understood, no worries.


----------



## Mayhem

Well I got bored and needed a break from making fluids and factory upgrades. So I've been playing.

I've never coded before in my life and though ill try and put my 3D printer to some us other than making Toys and rubbish for others.

I came up with an idea and spent the last few days leaning coding and web page HTML and Bluetooth inner workings, I came up with something that may be of use and could possibly be turned into a fully working consumer product. At the moment though I am just playing.

Introducing a "Mayhem" (me) Prototype.

Mayhems Optical Spectrum Analyzer for Liquid Coolants

I designed (WIP) a simple slide on a product that takes the values and readings then converts them into user-friendly data. E.G it reads all the data and advises what coolant you are running and if there are any issues. So say you run "Red" and it starts to go darker it will pick this up and advise you of the issues and how to fix it. I'm only working on Mayhems Coolant products but in the future, it could go further. The idea has come from me wanting to have better QC controls in Mayhems esp with colour and working on better products. The wholw system is really low cost as in we are talking I have spent no more than £25.00 to make it all.

It simply slips over any hard tubing and plugs into your USB and runs. If you would like web data you put in your WIFI details and that's it. Same for Bluetooth. It also outputs the data via serial and you can create graphs of the data. It needs more work but I'm learning everything from the ground up and never done anything like this before.


----------



## war4peace

OMG shut up and take my money!

...I had a question though... I wanted to calculate my power dissipation for my radiator as closely as possible. Currently I am using the default water value of Water thermal capacity of 4187 Ws/(kg * K). If it's not a trade secret, could you please tell me what the thermal capacity of Mayhems Pastel line is? I have White, Red and Black.


----------



## Mayhem

I cannot and there are many good reasons for this. Test data in our labs show 1 reading, test data from my home PC show another, Test data from plastic tubing shows different readings. However, to make it as simple as possible it's just the same as water. Also forgot to add altitude also makes a difference. We gave up long ago spewing off facts and figures and finding they change every day.


----------



## war4peace

If it's in the same ballpark as water, then it's okay. I don't need an exact value, just wanted to make sure it's not wildly off (as in 30% difference) from water.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Is Pastel Orange still breaking down over time or is there a new formulation that is stable now?


----------



## Mayhem

well the move is nearly completed

A quick view of the factory line nearly completed.->


----------



## Barefooter

Mayhem said:


> well the move is nearly completed
> 
> A quick view of the factory line nearly completed.->
> 
> https://youtu.be/FfQTjUrLA88



It looks like you are "big time" now :thumb:

Congrats Mick!


----------



## skupples

He’s a true global power house now. He IS the PC watercooling coolant industry.


----------



## war4peace

...and 90% of that goes to Corsair


----------



## Mayhem

Were awaiting the install of racking and more but can only spend what money we have. Ref corsair I cannot say what we send them but your numbers are way out  and they are not our only customers.

However, as of late, we have fallen behind on production and this morning i was rushed into (drove myself) hospital due "not looking after myself and overworking". However, this stuff doesn't make itself and if I want to suceeed then I have to put all my effort in no matter what!. The factory line I have fully set up my self with no help and learnt quite a bit about robotics. Still more to do, still more to learn and still more mountains to conquer. The list goes on.

Also to add, I'm not big-time, I'm small fry with a large appetite and this is still my hobby, I just have a few extra toys.

When we've finished installing and getting mayhems up and running again, ill post a better video.


----------



## war4peace

Sorry about my earlier comment, I just fear that there won't be enough liquid for individual customers. I only use Mayhems liquids in all my builds, and lack of availability would not be good for me at all.


----------



## Mayhem

war4peace said:


> Sorry about my earlier comment, I just fear that there won't be enough liquid for individual customers. I only use Mayhems liquids in all my builds, and lack of availability would not be good for me at all.


The move has caused us to stop production while we sort everything out but it will all be up and running soon.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Mayhem said:


> The move has caused us to stop production while we sort everything out but it will all be up and running soon.


By chance does this relate to the Ice Dragon restocking delays?


----------



## Mayhem

LiquidHaus said:


> By chance does this relate to the Ice Dragon restocking delays?


You will need to approach IDC directly for that answer.


----------



## DarthBaggins

is Pastel Gray (Light & Dark) coming back once you guys get everything settled in the new place?


----------



## rolandos582

My pastel black is more like dark blue. Anyone got a tip to make it nice and black?

Using mayhems ultra pure h20 with Mayhems X1 - Black 250ml Concentrated


----------



## dansi

Hey mayhems, im lttp but how is your fluid case against alphacool? I see they are still selling your fluids on aquatuning. Do watercool and aquacomputer blocks void warranty?


----------



## Mayhem

UK North East and proud manufacturer Of PC Liquid Cooling..







Mayhems Manufacturing of Corsair coolants (bottling side). As of today it's now fully working after weeks of putting it all together. !!!!! Wait till you see what we're doing next ...... We Also now accept all OEM manufacturing as well and can do from 10ml right up to 1,000 Ltrs and ship worldwide. Our daily output is up to 8,000 Ltrs a day but this is going to double soon. Thank you to everyone who has worked with us over the last 10 years this is where all your money is going and im going to make it bigger.

ref above we have nothing to do with what some companies post about illegal warranties. Mayhems Does not void any warranties esp in the EU region and anyone claiming such warranties need to check the Laws.


----------



## NewType88

I'm using mayhem x1 with distilled water in my loop, but I'm paranoid. Can I also use the biocide+ and inhibitor+ as well ?


----------



## DarthBaggins

X1 already has those agents in it


@Mayhem - any answer to my above post about Pastel Gray (Light & Dark)?


----------



## Leonko

Mayhem said:


> UK North East and proud manufacturer Of PC Liquid Cooling..
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4E1gHwKvJg
> 
> 
> Mayhems Manufacturing of Corsair coolants (bottling side). As of today it's now fully working after weeks of putting it all together. !!!!! Wait till you see what we're doing next ...... We Also now accept all OEM manufacturing as well and can do from 10ml right up to 1,000 Ltrs and ship worldwide. Our daily output is up to 8,000 Ltrs a day but this is going to double soon. Thank you to everyone who has worked with us over the last 10 years this is where all your money is going and im going to make it bigger.
> 
> ref above we have nothing to do with what some companies post about illegal warranties. Mayhems Does not void any warranties esp in the EU region and anyone claiming such warranties need to check the Laws.


why did you pull of video ?


----------



## NewType88

DarthBaggins said:


> X1 already has those agents in it
> 
> 
> @Mayhem - any answer to my above post about Pastel Gray (Light & Dark)?


 @Mayhem

Well the X1 states to renew itself every 9-12 months, but the biocide+ and inhibitor+ is supposed to be added every three months.....so if its the same, then why the difference in topping off or exchanging the fluid ?


----------



## rolandos582

rolandos582 said:


> My pastel black is more like dark blue. Anyone got a tip to make it nice and black?
> 
> Using mayhems ultra pure h20 with Mayhems X1 - Black 250ml Concentrated


Anyone got a good tip?


----------



## war4peace

Do you have soft tubing or hard tubing? I gave up using Pastel Black with soft tubing because it looked bluish, but that was the tube's fault. It's slightly better with PETG, even better with Acrylic and looks amazing with glass.


----------



## rolandos582

war4peace said:


> Do you have soft tubing or hard tubing? I gave up using Pastel Black with soft tubing because it looked bluish, but that was the tube's fault. It's slightly better with PETG, even better with Acrylic and looks amazing with glass.


Running acrylic tubing. In daylight I can clearly see it's dark blue, in nighttime with my case lights on it looks decent. I'll try and see if I can make some pictures.


----------



## Leonko

yeah, please post some


----------



## rolandos582

Right here you can clearly see it's dark blue

On this picture at night with the lights on, it's less visible but still not dark.

What happened here? To much water? I think I even added a little bit extra dye to create an extra dark effect.


----------



## war4peace

That might be the problem, I always used premixed liquids, straight from Mayhems. I don't trust myself enough to mix them personally


----------



## rolandos582

war4peace said:


> That might be the problem, I always used premixed liquids, straight from Mayhems. I don't trust myself enough to mix them personally /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


Well yeah, but when ur working with big loops. It adds up. I still dont get how black dye can turn dark blue. The red dye came out gorgious.


----------



## war4peace

rolandos582 said:


> Well yeah, but when ur working with big loops. It adds up.


My main PC loop guzzles 3 liters of liquid, so believe me, I know. With that being said, I have been using the same Pastel White liquid in my PC for about two years now, with no changes in color or behavior. That's the beauty of Mayhems liquids


----------



## skupples

rolandos582 said:


> Well yeah, but when ur working with big loops. It adds up. I still dont get how black dye can turn dark blue. The red dye came out gorgious.


so much this, and also why i switched to the drop series. I too hold just under a gallon, typically more but I'm down two 480s at the moment.


----------



## Moose-Tech

war4peace said:


> That might be the problem, I always used premixed liquids, straight from Mayhems. I don't trust myself enough to mix them personally


Its very easy to work with concentrates, especially 250ml to 1000ml concentrates.

Buy a 1000ml Fill Bottle. Phobya makes a good one (soft and easy to squeeze).

Use a measuring cup to add 1000ml of tap water to fill bottle. Use perma-marker to mark level.
Empty bottle.

Flush with DS/DI water.

Add concentrate. 
If 250ml makes 1000ml then add DS/DI water or Mayhems Pure Water to the fill line. 25ml in either direction won't make a difference.
I save a lot of money by having Mayhems concentrates shipped to the US.

By the way I like Mayhems Pastels also. I just changed to clear but was running pastel before that. It cleaned right out of my loop with a good flush.


----------



## undeadpolice

*Mayhems “blitz OneShot” bottle bloated.*

Hi Mayhems,

I’ve ordered “blitz OneShot” for mayhem’s site.
I noticed that the bottle has a bulge at the bottom.
It is still save to use?

I have created ticket (#2577) but no reposes


----------



## war4peace

Moose-Tech said:


> Its very easy to work with concentrates, especially 250ml to 1000ml concentrates.


TBH I fear mislabels more than actually mixing it. Had friends who were hit by the 250ml/100ml mislabel confusion and their colors were way off. Had acquaintances who respected the steps exactly and their colors were ranging from slightly off to waaaay off (e.g. greenish instead of yellow and brick red instead of red).
In the end, I would rather pay extra and be absolutely sure my build looks the way i like it. The risk of having off colors and spending many, many hours pulling the loop apart, flushing and doing it all over again greatly outweigh the monetary loss. Maybe I value my own time differently. In the end, it's a matter of preference


----------



## rolandos582

Right, I have no more problems with concentrates. I also hold between 3 and 4 liters in my loop. The red one came out beautiful but the black one is dark blue. Does anyone know what to do to make it more black? Add more water? More concentrate?

I'm gonna switch to https://www.mayhems.net/collections/pastel-concentrate-250ml/products/pastel-pure-black-250ml for sure. The X1 isn't bad, but it looks more waterly. The pastel is more like paint and more solid.


----------



## skupples

this is why no on ever uses black. Did you test PH? That can cause color shift too. nothing in that bottle should be any color but black, unless some other chemical reaction is forcing it to change? 

X1 vs. pastel.

water vs. paint, perfect comparison. X1 also runs flawlessly for 5+ years at a time, not sure pastel ever made it that far in functionality.


----------



## Moose-Tech

war4peace said:


> TBH I fear mislabels more than actually mixing it. Had friends who were hit by the 250ml/100ml mislabel confusion and their colors were way off. Had acquaintances who respected the steps exactly and their colors were ranging from slightly off to waaaay off (e.g. greenish instead of yellow and brick red instead of red).
> In the end, I would rather pay extra and be absolutely sure my build looks the way i like it. The risk of having off colors and spending many, many hours pulling the loop apart, flushing and doing it all over again greatly outweigh the monetary loss. Maybe I value my own time differently. In the end, it's a matter of preference


I can see why you prefer to use the pre-mixes. I guess I have been lucky so far.

But I did use the Mayhems UV White Pastel concentrate and had excellent results with it. 
I used the Non-staining Blue dye on it and added a little UV Sky Blue to get the UV to pop a little better.
I loved the way it looked and had no problems with the colors changing.


----------



## Mayhem

undeadpolice said:


> Hi Mayhems,
> 
> I’ve ordered “blitz OneShot” for mayhem’s site.
> I noticed that the bottle has a bulge at the bottom.
> It is still save to use?
> 
> I have created ticket (#2577) but no reposes


Got back to you, this happens when temps hit over 25 to 28c. Its highly concentrated and must be kept at these temps and some times exporting it can cause it (in a plane).


----------



## NewType88

@Mayhem Can I add inhibitors+ and biocide+ to X1 clear ?


----------



## skupples

NewType88 said:


> @Mayhem Can I add inhibitors+ and biocide+ to X1 clear ?


not an official answer in any capacity - 

not sure why you'd want to, it contains both biocide and inhibitors as is. I've ran X1 clear for 5 years at a time, and had blocks come out looking brand new.

I did recently switch to the drops though, simply due to the fact that I keep having to rebuild this stupid 9700k system.


----------



## NewType88

skupples said:


> NewType88 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Mayhem Can I add inhibitors+ and biocide+ to X1 clear ?
> 
> 
> 
> not an official answer in any capacity -
> 
> not sure why you'd want to, it contains both biocide and inhibitors as is. I've ran X1 clear for 5 years at a time, and had blocks come out looking brand new.
> 
> I did recently switch to the drops though, simply due to the fact that I keep having to rebuild this stupid 9700k system.
Click to expand...

Ya, I’m sure it’s fine, but would like official confirmation.

If it’s the same stuff why do they suggest to change the x1 every 9-12 months, but the biocide and inhibitors should be topped off every 3 months ?


----------



## Mayhem

NewType88 said:


> @Mayhem Can I add inhibitors+ and biocide+ to X1 clear ?


No. they are stand-alone products. Use together but not with any coolants.


----------



## Mayhem

All now aviable

Newly updated bottles all made on the new factory line. 
New formula (well updated)

All coolants we will be updating, We are dropping all 100ml lines, Pastel extreme is EOL too.

All new formulas are PETG safe, We are the only company who has made Ethylene Glycol (our new XT-1 range) PETG safe (in house formula) and its something we have been working on for a very long time. We are the only company out there who has even bothered to look into the issue and research the issue fully..


----------



## Leonko

still available only after old stock sold out?


----------



## Mayhem

The new stock of X1 is in our store. Other retails may have to sell their stock first. Old stock of other products will have to sell before we replace with current products. It's a time-consuming thing to replace all stock all at one go.

Concentrates also will take longer to make as the factory line will need recalibrating per switch.


----------



## M3TAl

Why is it every time I order new coolant something new drops right after? Few years back ordered X1, XT1-Nuke drops about a week later. Ordered some more XT1-Nuke last week, now we have all these new updated coolants released.


----------



## skupples

how is it i still run into folks that don't understand that silver isn't all you need in your loop. 

to quote someone that questioned me for saying "please don't run pure distilled for long periods of time" & bashing solutions that don't address anything but organic growth. 



> Hi, thanks for the advice.
> 
> 
> FYI, it was my understanding that silver in a loop acts as a biocide (numerous papers on the Internet support this).
> 
> 
> So the devil was in the detail when I wrote you
> 
> 
> "with a very small amount of silver (which is not continuously in contact with the water, I think this is very important)."
> 
> 
> Not being continually in the water, means the chance of reaction with impurity the different metals are greatly reduced.
> 
> 
> That being said, im in agreement that as there are now viable options for providing this protection (Mayhems) that its up to the user to decide if they want to handle the ins and outs of doing this, or manually maintaining a fine balance of silver content in the loop.


at least this fellow mentions the light @ the end of the convo.


----------



## war4peace

skupples said:


> saying "please don't run pure distilled for long periods of time"


I have tested this on a bench build. It was filled with demineralized water and nothing else over one year agoIt still runs well and without a problem. There is no growth, no change of color, transparency or anything. In all fairness, all the components were brand new and the bottle was sealed before filling.
With that being said, I don't recommend using pure distilled either, only because it's not worth the increased risk, What I did was a test, out of curiosity, it happened to have great results, but it's not a rule.


----------



## Mayhem

If you run pure distilled water the PC must not be in direct sunlight and if you have copper CPU or GPU block or copper piping (not plated) this will create its own biocide. The only thing missing is inhibitor but regular maintenance will also be good for the system.


----------



## skupples

I rather not tempt fate & just do it right the first time. My first few loops were with the classics (utopia, dead water, etc) n it just must be too warm down here in florida for them to work properly.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh as said it can be done but it can all mess up easily. . Just being honest.


----------



## merlin__36

Just got the pro kit yesterday and i was wondering about the instructions that came with the cleaning kit say 50 ml of #1 and 950 distilled water the bottle label says 250ml #1 and 750ml distilled water.

I am trying to get this waterblock cleaned.


----------



## skupples

Not a rep, but i'd go with the bottle labeling. 

everything else is added after the fact, but that label goes on via a computer driven filling/sealing/labeling system. 

they did change the ratios at some point, not too long ago. It doesn't surprise me that things would get mixed up somewhere along the way, between his shop in Europe, & whatever vendor you picked it up from.


----------



## merlin__36

skupples said:


> Not a rep, but i'd go with the bottle labeling.
> 
> everything else is added after the fact, but that label goes on via a computer driven filling/sealing/labeling system.
> 
> they did change the ratios at some point, not too long ago. It doesn't surprise me that things would get mixed up somewhere along the way, between his shop in Europe, & whatever vendor you picked it up from.



Yeah thats what i did followed the bottle took the entire bottle to clean 3 radiators.


I ordered mine from a store in Florida but i like 3,000 miles away from hahaha


----------



## Shawnb99

merlin__36 said:


> Yeah thats what i did followed the bottle took the entire bottle to clean 3 radiators.
> 
> 
> I ordered mine from a store in Florida but i like 3,000 miles away from hahaha


You can also keep the fluid and reuse it again, multiple times in fact.


----------



## ThrashZone

merlin__36 said:


> Just got the pro kit yesterday and i was wondering about the instructions that came with the cleaning kit say 50 ml of #1 and 950 distilled water the bottle label says 250ml #1 and 750ml distilled water.
> 
> I am trying to get this waterblock cleaned.


Hi,
Yep quite a misprint there.


----------



## skupples

merlin__36 said:


> Yeah thats what i did followed the bottle took the entire bottle to clean 3 radiators.
> 
> 
> I ordered mine from a store in Florida but i like 3,000 miles away from hahaha


As someone that's been to the Performnace-PC "store" (warehouse) it doesn't surprise me something got mixed up. 

or - they had damaged product, n combined the two.


----------



## Mayhem

Were changing the bottle stickers soon for the Blitz Kit to simplify things. (some times the old stickers keep getting thrown into the mix).

Just follow the sheet and all will be good.


----------



## Ramzinho

3 years ago i moved to Australia and i left my loop intact just for giggles, i had Pastel Blue in it sitting for three years after almost 2 years of use. recently i went back home and i found out that that the Blue color didn't change, i turned on the loop to get it a bit warm and then i dismantled it. after i took it apart i found there was a little to no residue in gpu or cpu blocks. however, after rinsing it with warm water and letting it sit for a couple of days some blue flakes dropped off the CPU block when i was taking it apart for cleaning. i'm yet to take apart the GPU blocks for closer inspection but i'll give you updated pics later on. I'd also like to add that the PETG tubes did take a very faded tint of blue, like i really need sunlight to see it, but overall it didn't penetrate into the tube too much. i think my circumstances made up for a cool experiment. 



























As far as i remember i spent some time during the initial loop set up to clean my rads thoroughly, adjust the PH of the loop and i think the results were not disappointing. now i'm not sure if it's only the blue that can hold its characteristics for long or is it the whole pastel line up. anyways my upcoming rig i'll be using mayhems again.


----------



## war4peace

Pastel White, almost two years with computer running 24/7, no change in color or features.


----------



## undeadpolice

Mayhem said:


> Got back to you, this happens when temps hit over 25 to 28c. Its highly concentrated and must be kept at these temps and some times exporting it can cause it (in a plane).



Thanks for the rely, the one shot did a good job flushing and picking up white stuff as it stick on the reservoir wall which plain distilled water can’t. Soo cleaning would be easy.(which is strange because It was using TX-1 UV blue previously)

Currently I’m facing another issue, after flushing the system and filling it with pastel white UV-blue concentrated. it turned greenish & yellowish within 4 days. (50/50 mixed with mayhems pure h20)
I never had the same issue with my older system for 4 year (pastel white non-uv), as it only has hardly noticeable blue-tint caused by picking up copper. (Also 50/50 mixed)

What could be cause?

I brought it for from local store in singapore,
(I can provide the store details if you want)
I’ve also notice that pastel UV has a weird smell when I opened the bottle (smells like OX brandy).
Could it be because it has gone bad? According to the shop seller it has been in stock for a year.


----------



## skupples

smelling like booze is to be expected.


----------



## undeadpolice

skupples said:


> smelling like booze is to be expected.


Are You sure?
The pastel white non-uv doesn’t anything smell booze .


----------



## skupples

all my X1/X1 UVs have always shown up smelling like booze, so I just assumed it was standard across the whole brand.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> all my X1/X1 UVs have always shown up smelling like booze, so I just assumed it was standard across the whole brand.


Hi,
Probably your breath throwing you off :thinking:


----------



## skupples

LOL!

oi, i have a weak tummy. I rarely have more than a high % brew or two. I prefer my ganja.


----------



## merlin__36

*Up and running again! Thank you for the help.*

Mayhem UV Blue.


----------



## Moose-Tech

Shiikamaru said:


> Got a question. I have a Mayhem X1 blue uv dye coming in. Gonna mix it with distilled water. Do I still need a biocide?


No, The X1 already contains a Biocide (assuming you are mixing the CONCENTRATE with the distilled water).


----------



## Mayhem

undeadpolice said:


> Thanks for the rely, the one shot did a good job flushing and picking up white stuff as it stick on the reservoir wall which plain distilled water can’t. Soo cleaning would be easy.(which is strange because It was using TX-1 UV blue previously)
> 
> Currently I’m facing another issue, after flushing the system and filling it with pastel white UV-blue concentrated. it turned greenish & yellowish within 4 days. (50/50 mixed with mayhems pure h20)
> I never had the same issue with my older system for 4 year (pastel white non-uv), as it only has hardly noticeable blue-tint caused by picking up copper. (Also 50/50 mixed)
> 
> What could be cause?
> 
> I brought it for from local store in singapore,
> (I can provide the store details if you want)
> I’ve also notice that pastel UV has a weird smell when I opened the bottle (smells like OX brandy).
> Could it be because it has gone bad? According to the shop seller it has been in stock for a year.


Our products do smell like they are alcohol this is normal. It also explains why I wobble around work a lot .

When using One shot you must remove all of it after using it, that stuff is so strong and it needs good flushing afterwards. We are re-looking into the one-shot as it a bit mad and we are having an issue were to be a simple as possible, its way too strong! and when it goes over 28 to 30 the bottle can expand beyond a worrying point.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Not something I relate to alcohol to be 
Maybe we are very different drinkers lol sure no where near 80% vodka or even tequila 

I did finally broke down both my systems didn't use part 1 though just ran hot water both directions in rads for a couple hours each way 
Part 2 yes 
Added X1 clear premix looking good so far hope it stays that way.


----------



## skupples

it smells somewhere between bottom shelf liquor, and hand sanitizing solution.

I had some spill in my car once, while transporting an STH10 IN THE TRUNK OF A CIVIC  it'll fit in the back seat, but is a two person job. 
the next occupant asked if I had been drinking.


----------



## undeadpolice

Mayhem said:


> Our products do smell like they are alcohol this is normal. It also explains why I wobble around work a lot .
> 
> When using One shot you must remove all of it after using it, that stuff is so strong and it needs good flushing afterwards. We are re-looking into the one-shot as it a bit mad and we are having an issue were to be a simple as possible, its way too strong! and when it goes over 28 to 30 the bottle can expand beyond a worrying point.


Ohhh...no means I have flush my system soon before it ruins my waterblock and radiators.


May I have favor from you? Pretty please.
I wouldn’t mind buying pastel white uv-blue again.
But shipping from mayhems to Singapore is extremely expensive. Could you lighten my burden when comes to shipping cost? Pretty please

Singapore local store are kinda expensive as well and also I would prefer fresh bottles out of mayhems.


----------



## 414347

I thought I post some incredible results on my Heatkiller IV CPU block and Mayhems Inhibitor + & Biocide+. This is from my bench after use of almost 11 months.

I didn't blow the remaining water of the micro channel so the tiny droppings looking like small dots are water and so is the stain on the block, its still wet slowly drying from water ...not bad


----------



## skupples

like i've been saying for years.

use Mayhems properly n your stuff comes out looking brand new. 

Love how often people say no, but hey look! picture proof.

do it right, n stuff comes out like new. "right" can be had in many ways, but most often what we see is lots of user error in multiple levels.


----------



## 414347

skupples said:


> like i've been saying for years.
> 
> use Mayhems properly n your stuff comes out looking brand new.
> 
> Love how often people say no, but hey look! picture proof.
> 
> do it right, n stuff comes out like new. "right" can be had in many ways, but most often what we see is lots of user error in multiple levels.


Yap I agree. 

That CPU was working hard, very hard for pretty much 11 months without much of a brake and all I did add 2 drops of both every 3 months, 2 drops because my single loop holds more than 1.5 L but not seen even burning discoloration around micro channels ... that is amazing.


----------



## Mayhem

Our product works if ppl do what we suggest. I'm working on an even better standalone biocide and inhibitor atm cannot say much but if it works as expected will be moved across our whole range of products. We are looking at doing it as a fully mixed 1 drop solution. We have to water it down 1000x (yes that's no joke) due to how strong it is, But so far not 1 colour change on any dyes or products we've tested so far and we've (I say "we've" as this is not a 1 person project its work between me and a massive company who are helping me out) added in our PETG safe (blocker).


----------



## broodro0ster

Mayhem said:


> Our product works if ppl do what we suggest. I'm working on an even better standalone biocide and inhibitor atm cannot say much but if it works as expected will be moved across our whole range of products. We are looking at doing it as a fully mixed 1 drop solution. We have to water it down 1000x (yes that's no joke) due to how strong it is, But so far not 1 colour change on any dyes or products we've tested so far and we've (I say "we've" as this is not a 1 person project its work between me and a massive company who are helping me out) added in our PETG safe (blocker).


So the best will getter better then ;-)
Thank you for all the hard work you're going! I'm still using the V1 blue pastel fluid and I love it.


----------



## Ramzinho

Hey @Mayhem, I've had amazing success with the pastel Blue, i Pmed you about it as well. however i've seen some posts about the discoloration that the orange color get which i want to do for my next build. How resilient is orange compared to the blue pastel to temperature and color change? do i need to change it once every 6 months or a year?


----------



## Mayhem

Ramzinho said:


> Hey @Mayhem, I've had amazing success with the pastel Blue, i Pmed you about it as well. however i've seen some posts about the discoloration that the orange color get which i want to do for my next build. How resilient is orange compared to the blue pastel to temperature and color change? do i need to change it once every 6 months or a year?


Orange changes colour over time and there isn't much we can do about it, once the rad heats up blue/green from the copper is released into the fluid (this is normal) and Orange then goes brown.


----------



## ThrashZone

Mayhem said:


> Orange changes colour over time and there isn't much we can do about it, once the rad heats up blue/green from the copper is released into the fluid (this is normal) and Orange then goes brown.


Hi,
Man don't tell me after all this and using x1 clear premix it's going to change to blue/ green again :buttkick:


----------



## Mayhem

undeadpolice said:


> Ohhh...no means I have flush my system soon before it ruins my waterblock and radiators.
> 
> 
> May I have favor from you? Pretty please.
> I wouldn’t mind buying pastel white uv-blue again.
> But shipping from mayhems to Singapore is extremely expensive. Could you lighten my burden when comes to shipping cost? Pretty please
> 
> Singapore local store are kinda expensive as well and also I would prefer fresh bottles out of mayhems.


We just managed to get a discounted rate from DHL. These have now been implemented in the shop and is fully automated from DHL giving you the best prices we can get. Hope this helps.


----------



## Mayhem

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Man don't tell me after all this and using x1 clear premix it's going to change to blue/ green again :buttkick:


Clear should be fine unless that rad was not cleaned.


----------



## hahler2

Hey Mayhem! Doing the planning for my first build. Already decided that I’m going to use your fluid and soft tubing. Wondering what you would recommend for fluid. X1 clear or plain distilled with inhibitor + and biocide +? Keep up the great work!


----------



## skupples

i'd 100% go drops for a first build, it'll allow you to drain & refill as many times as you want without cost or re-order being an issue.


----------



## Mayhem

Its all down to personal p[refrnace. Me personally i like our biocide+ and inhib+ however for an all in one solution X1 clear.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Mayhem said:


> Its all down to personal p[refrnace. Me personally i like our biocide+ and inhib+ however for an all in one solution X1 clear.


hello mayhems! i bought inhibitor+ and biocide+ can/should it be mixed with a coolant or destillated water?

Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## Ramzinho

Mayhem said:


> Orange changes colour over time and there isn't much we can do about it, once the rad heats up blue/green from the copper is released into the fluid (this is normal) and Orange then goes brown.


Thanks Mick, i guess i'll go clear then. and that makes sense why the blue wasn't affected much then.


----------



## Mayhem

Update

**New** Biocide Extreme (IS). 

1 ml makes 15 Ltrs of coolant
1 x 15 ml makes 225 Ltrs of Coolant (yes this is not a joke)

Top up 1 drop per 1 Ltr after 6 to 9 months. After that 1 drop Per 1 Ltr every 12 Months.

Complete new formula built from the ground up. 
Petg Complaint, 
Dye complaint (will not change the colour of dye)
PH Balanced 7.2 (do not use in a system above PH9 due to hydrolysis)
6 Year shelf life.
Prevents bio-film Build up.
Tested to Reduce 99.9% growth of microbes within the maximum contact time of 1 hour, totally dead within 3 hours.
Non-foaming & non-ionic
Tested up to 75c
Protects Copper, stainless steel, brass and plating.
Bio-Degradable (fully brakes down into the environment)
Greywater waste complaint.
Confirms to all new REACH regulations in the EU
Non-toxic to Pets and animals (when watered down to recommend amounts.)
Cab be used with Mayhems inhibitor + for full system protection.

DOES NOT CONTAIN COPPER SULFATE, DOES NOT CONTAIN ACIDS.

Made and developed from the ground up only from Mayhems.


----------



## hahler2

Thanks guys! Think I’ll go distilled plus biocide and inhibitor then!


----------



## Mayhem

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> hello mayhems! i bought inhibitor+ and biocide+ can/should it be mixed with a coolant or destillated water?
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


just mix with di or distilled water nothing more.


----------



## skupples

Mayhem said:


> Update
> 
> **New** Biocide Extreme (IS).
> 
> 1 ml makes 15 Ltrs of coolant
> 1 x 15 ml makes 225 Ltrs of Coolant (yes this is not a joke)
> 
> Top up 1 drop per 1 Ltr after 6 to 9 months. After that 1 drop Per 1 Ltr every 12 Months.
> 
> Complete new formula built from the ground up.
> Petg Complaint,
> Dye complaint (will not change the colour of dye)
> PH Balanced 7.2 (do not use in a system above PH9 due to hydrolysis)
> 6 Year shelf life.
> Prevents bio-film Build up.
> Tested to Reduce 99.9% growth of microbes within the maximum contact time of 1 hour, totally dead within 3 hours.
> Non-foaming & non-ionic
> Tested up to 75c
> Protects Copper, stainless steel, brass and plating.
> Bio-Degradable (fully brakes down into the environment)
> Greywater waste complaint.
> Confirms to all new REACH regulations in the EU
> Non-toxic to Pets and animals (when watered down to recommend amounts.)
> Cab be used with Mayhems inhibitor + for full system protection.
> 
> DOES NOT CONTAIN COPPER SULFATE, DOES NOT CONTAIN ACIDS.
> 
> Made and developed from the ground up only from Mayhems.


"does not use acids" 

that's in contrast to one of the ingredients in bio/in+, right? Thought I read somewhere you were utilizing some sort of citric.

also, congrats! this seems like a big deal. Meeting all those standards. Makes me wonder if this is similar to what will be going into the AIOs?


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Mayhem said:


> just mix with di or distilled water nothing more.


thank you very much! 

Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## Mayhem

We used to use citric in the old biocide extreme. This is a complete built from the ground-up formula.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

DI water is purified water ,right?

can it be used with nickel played blocks?

btw anyone here know what ph the coolant should have in general to protect Metals and pumps? 

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## Shawnb99

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> DI water is purified water ,right?
> 
> can it be used with nickel played blocks?
> 
> btw anyone here know what ph the coolant should have in general to protect Metals and pumps?
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk




DI water is deionized water. Should still need to run some sort of biocide and inhibitor.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Shawnb99 said:


> DI water is deionized water. Should still need to run some sort of biocide and inhibitor.


thanks Shawnb99

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## Mayhem

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> thanks Shawnb99
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk



Perfect PH is 7.2

6.8 to 7.8 is fine


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Mayhem said:


> Perfect PH is 7.2
> 
> 
> 
> 6.8 to 7.8 is fine


awesome thank you very much !

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## jamsomito

Hi all. Recently built out my loop for a 3900x system and a 1080ti with water block. Decided to go with the black and yellow theme this time. I spray painted the fan rings and got mayhems pastel yellow, but the two don't match. The pastel yellow coolant is a bit "brighter", kind of a cooler shade of yellow than the fan rings, and I want it darker and warmer to match my paint color.

I ordered a bottle of mayhems orange dye and was planning on adding a few drops for the desired effect. Am I on the right track? How much do you think I will need?


----------



## Mayhem

jamsomito said:


> Hi all. Recently built out my loop for a 3900x system and a 1080ti with water block. Decided to go with the black and yellow theme this time. I spray painted the fan rings and got mayhems pastel yellow, but the two don't match. The pastel yellow coolant is a bit "brighter", kind of a cooler shade of yellow than the fan rings, and I want it darker and warmer to match my paint color.
> 
> I ordered a bottle of mayhems orange dye and was planning on adding a few drops for the desired effect. Am I on the right track? How much do you think I will need?


Just overclock your system it won't take long to change lol.

Seriously let it settle and give it a few days, you will find it will darken down on its own accord. I wouldn't mix with orange as orange is a nightmare in its own right.


----------



## jamsomito

Mayhem said:


> Just overclock your system it won't take long to change lol.
> 
> Seriously let it settle and give it a few days, you will find it will darken down on its own accord. I wouldn't mix with orange as orange is a nightmare in its own right.


Ah, interesting. I have seen reports of color changing but it seems very hit-or-miss. Is your concern with orange just color steadfastness, or other issues?

I've gotten it up to temp a few times and haven't seen any change yet, but I'll be patient.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Mayhem said:


> Perfect PH is 7.2
> 
> 
> 
> 6.8 to 7.8 is fine


Hello again! i got a fresh aquacomputer double protect 5ltr canister which has a ph 5.8...should i use it?PH 5.8 is slightly acidic. 









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## skupples

wait wait... i'm tired one sec... this'll do

https://sciencing.com/ph-distilled-water-4623914.html

"The pH of distilled water immediately after distillation is 7, but within hours after distillation, it has absorbed carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and become acidic with a pH of 5.8."

it should stabilize after mixing.


----------



## Mayhem

jamsomito said:


> Ah, interesting. I have seen reports of color changing but it seems very hit-or-miss. Is your concern with orange just color steadfastness, or other issues?
> 
> I've gotten it up to temp a few times and haven't seen any change yet, but I'll be patient.


Its to do with the rads nothing more imparticular HWlabs rads. This is not saying they are bad, it's just for some reason they leach Blue / Green colour into the system and change orange and yellow colours quicker than any other rad out there.

We've tried fixing the issue to no avail.


----------



## Mayhem

skupples said:


> wait wait... i'm tired one sec... this'll do
> 
> https://sciencing.com/ph-distilled-water-4623914.html
> 
> "The pH of distilled water immediately after distillation is 7, but within hours after distillation, it has absorbed carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and become acidic with a pH of 5.8."
> 
> it should stabilize after mixing.


YAY .. DI water will always be this level until mixed.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

skupples said:


> wait wait... i'm tired one sec... this'll do
> 
> 
> 
> https://sciencing.com/ph-distilled-water-4623914.html
> 
> 
> 
> "The pH of distilled water immediately after distillation is 7, but within hours after distillation, it has absorbed carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and become acidic with a pH of 5.8."
> 
> 
> 
> it should stabilize after mixing.


Nice finding since i never was good in school when it comes to physics or chemicals. 

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## zanOdin

Hello, I am using XT-1 mixed with distilled water, I understand that with 250ml 5 liters fit, my circuit will fit 1.5 liters, then it would be 125ml. I think have an excess of XT-1 because my deposit has filled with foam and the water has become transparent white. My question is, is the excess XT1 mixture bad? I need help please :sad-smile
I add some photos.... I need help, please


----------



## Mayhem

XT1 should be mixed between 5 and 10% any more is for going sub-zero.


----------



## zanOdin

then, slightly empty the tank and add more distilled water?

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## skupples

lol... rtfm... rtfm... 

they usually don't recommend in-system mixing, but since you're diluting... I don't see the harm. It looks like you could easily dump out half. you aren't cooling a nuclear reactor or anything.


----------



## NewType88

I’m using x1 clear concentrate and I wanna switch to the drops when it comes time to renew my coolant.do I have to run part 2 flush before I add the fresh distilled water and drops or can I just drain and renew ?


----------



## skupples

you don't need to, but if you've never done a "proper" flush (acid/basic) it won't hurt. 

i'd say base it off of the condition of the cpu block. If its pretty clean, no need.


----------



## zanOdin

skupples said:


> lol... rtfm... rtfm...
> 
> 
> 
> they usually don't recommend in-system mixing, but since you're diluting... I don't see the harm. It looks like you could easily dump out half. you aren't cooling a nuclear reactor or anything.


empty two deposits and clarity.
sorry for huge photo, guilty Tapatalk  improved...









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## skupples

good! 

I thought that gray color looked pretty good though


----------



## hahler2

One other question. Was planning on using Mayhems 10/13 mm soft tubing. It is cheap and has really good reviews. And since I’m using biocide+ and inhibitor+ thought it would be good to use tubing from same manufacturer. However it is out of stock everywhere and I’m getting tired of waiting for it to come back in. Any recommendations on other tubing?


----------



## zanOdin

skupples said:


> good!
> 
> 
> 
> I thought that gray color looked pretty good though


Thank you, I hope that over time it takes a little more clarity 

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## ryan92084

hahler2 said:


> One other question. Was planning on using Mayhems 10/13 mm soft tubing. It is cheap and has really good reviews. And since I’m using biocide+ and inhibitor+ thought it would be good to use tubing from same manufacturer. However it is out of stock everywhere and I’m getting tired of waiting for it to come back in. Any recommendations on other tubing?


Mayhems is the best of the clear tubings imo. Runner up would be primoflex advanced LRT. Alternative would be norprene/epdm tubing like Tygon R6012/ek zmt.


----------



## hahler2

ryan92084 said:


> Mayhems is the best of the clear tubings imo. Runner up would be primoflex advanced LRT. Alternative would be norprene/epdm tubing like Tygon R6012/ek zmt.


Thank you! Maybe I'll just keep waiting. Hopefully the Mayhems comes back in stock soon.


----------



## skupples

folks have lots of fogging issues with adv lrt clear, and some don't. 

just ask alex123. He resourced the tubes from different sellers, & recleaned his loop like 3-4 times before saying fuggit.


----------



## Wreckedge

*I need to know*



Mayhem said:


> Small Update (actually its pretty much a mile stone but meh lets understate it)
> 
> MAYHEMS XT-1 NUKE & PETG
> 
> As of End of Nov 2018 / Dec 2018
> 
> XT-1 Nuke has been redesigned from the ground up and now is fully compatible with Petg. Testing has been going on for quite some time and in our saturated testing is showing to work perfectly dammed fine. We cannot go into detail on how were doing this as it is a trade secret to Mayhems, It will not show on any SDS / MSDS sheet (due to it being a tiny amount of product we add to the base fluid). Its works by negating the long term effect ethylene glycol has with Petg. It has no long term issues and no long term effect on the PETG tubing. Its not a miracle cure or snake oil to fix Petg tubing its just a fix for our coolant and Petg tubing.
> 
> This product will roll only as old stock it used up.
> 
> https://mayhems-tec.com/fireleap.mp3
> 
> It has been tested on Thermal Take, XSPC, Alphacool and various Other PETG brands.


Dear Mayhems,

I have almost all tubes from acrylic but 1 PETG from Alphacool. 
I have bought 8 Concentrates XT-1 Nuke like 1 week ago for 6L of pure distilled water. 

Can I use it with Alphacool PETG Hard Tubes?
How much should I add?


----------



## Mayhem

hahler2 said:


> One other question. Was planning on using Mayhems 10/13 mm soft tubing. It is cheap and has really good reviews. And since I’m using biocide+ and inhibitor+ thought it would be good to use tubing from same manufacturer. However it is out of stock everywhere and I’m getting tired of waiting for it to come back in. Any recommendations on other tubing?


We have stock. but when we do get it in it sells like hotcakes. Once were stable again (after all the flooding we had and losing so much stock) we will get more of it in.


----------



## Mayhem

Wreckedge said:


> Dear Mayhems,
> 
> I have almost all tubes from acrylic but 1 PETG from Alphacool.
> I have bought 8 Concentrates XT-1 Nuke like 1 week ago for 6L of pure distilled water.
> 
> Can I use it with Alphacool PETG Hard Tubes?
> How much should I add?


1) All though we do work on fixes for PETG ... I hate the stuff.
2) I personally would not mix PETG with Acrylic. We've never tested mixing both so, in all honesty, cannot comment on this situation.
3) XT-1 Nuke Works with PETG no problems now and acrylic but mixing both is out of my hands and again sorry cannot give a realistic comment on it (wish i could).


----------



## mega_option101

[Official] status added as of now. Please update the OP accordingly to reflect this.


----------



## Wreckedge

Mayhem said:


> 1) All though we do work on fixes for PETG ... I hate the stuff.
> 2) I personally would not mix PETG with Acrylic. We've never tested mixing both so, in all honesty, cannot comment on this situation.
> 3) XT-1 Nuke Works with PETG no problems now and acrylic but mixing both is out of my hands and again sorry cannot give a realistic comment on it (wish i could).


Hey Mayhems, 

Thanks for a reply. 

From info that gathered :
https://www.researchgate.net/profil...download/Chemical-Resistance-Chart-Detail.pdf

If You state that PETG is not reactive with XT-1 Nuke, the Ethylene glycol in small doses is not reactive with PMMA - acrylic glass.

This would make me think there should be no problem to use XT-1 Nuke with my Universal Liquid Cooling System For Testing.
I will probably add 4 at the beginning and will observe the results. If there will be a problem I will drain all out and exchange this one to acrylic glass or soft tubing. 
My XT-1 are manufactured 8-11.1.2019 - in the time of posting a statement about XT-1 Nuke - PETG compatibility. 

But: Is there anything other from your products which would be in your opinion better for me?

I'm holding yet for a moment, until you answer. 

Cheers.


----------



## Mayhem

PMMA is currently under testing. We have several parts and are running testing on this as i speak (its been going on for a few months)
XT-1 imho is the best coolant we make
Biocide +, inhibtor+ and Biocide extreme (IS) are the best additives on the market bar non and have been made spcialcy made for liquid-cooled PCS.


----------



## Mayhem

mega_option101 said:


> [Official] status added as of now. Please update the OP accordingly to reflect this.


HERO


----------



## skupples

LOL! I reported your post asking wth


----------



## poah

new graphics card (5700 xt red devil), new case (phanteks P600S) and new fluid Mayhems pastel white.


----------



## Mayhem

Pre Warning

Mayhems will be closed for 2 weeks beginning of 10/19. There will be No support email what so ever and no response from myself. 

I'm getting married (27th 09) after being with my lass for 24 years and we are on our honeymoon. There will be a skeleton staff running the place so smaller orders will be going out but that will be about it.


----------



## ryan92084

Mayhem said:


> Pre Warning
> 
> Mayhems will be closed for 2 weeks beginning of 10/19. There will be No support email what so ever and no response from myself.
> 
> I'm getting married (27th 09) after being with my lass for 24 years and we are on our honeymoon. There will be a skeleton staff running the place so smaller orders will be going out but that will be about it.


Congrats man, busy year for you.


----------



## 414347

WoW Mick!!!! Congrats and happy honeymoon


----------



## war4peace

Congrats man, please do NOT watercool the wedding cake


----------



## napych

Congratulations, Mick!
I’m happy to see how your life and business go.
We’ll survive those hard two weeks without you


----------



## ciarlatano

Mayhem said:


> Pre Warning
> 
> Mayhems will be closed for 2 weeks beginning of 10/19. There will be No support email what so ever and no response from myself.
> 
> I'm getting married (27th 09) after being with my lass for 24 years and we are on our honeymoon. There will be a skeleton staff running the place so smaller orders will be going out but that will be about it.


Congrats! All the best to both of you!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Wow 20 years well better later than never congrats


----------



## skupples

Mayhem said:


> Pre Warning
> 
> Mayhems will be closed for 2 weeks beginning of 10/19. There will be No support email what so ever and no response from myself.
> 
> I'm getting married (27th 09) after being with my lass for 24 years and we are on our honeymoon. There will be a skeleton staff running the place so smaller orders will be going out but that will be about it.


well deserved mate, go have some fun. 

Can you share some of the ignorant hate mail you received while AFK, upon your return?


----------



## Mayhem

Me get hate mail ... never ... its normally the other way around .

Were working on a new product and dev has now completed. When i get back off my honeymoon (and thank you every one for the best wishes) we will release more info over it

How ever

Mayhems C-O-W-A 400ml 

Mayhems C-O-W-A (CAN OF WHOOP ASS) Is an Ground built up aerosol based lube for tube bending, O-Rings and Seals (this is not a re brand).
It contains Biocide and inhibitor so can be used on you 0-Rings, Seals and also fittings to help it all fit correctly. 
Its non Toxic and has just been confirmed for REACH compliance in the EU.
Its non tacky, clean and residue free
Will not mess up coolants.
Lots more info when i get back.

My facebook has a mini vid (if you can find me).
100% Made in UK locally to us to my specs. 

RRP Will be £3.50 per can ....... Yeh were not gonna rip your eye balls out and shove them were the sun doesn't shine.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
400ml can ?
Weird size seeing a typical water loops is 1000ml and even that might not be quite enough for one of my loops to have a little spare for top off.


----------



## Mayhem

lol..... This is fine spray lube not coolant. For bending tubes and 0-rings ect ect


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Oops color me red


----------



## Mayhem

Why are we limited to only coolants in the public perception ...... "im so much more!".


----------



## skupples

i don't think anyone would complain about more parts and products that're filtered through your personal standards. Which I believe you've said are coming in a few forms.


----------



## napych

We need a new type of tubing. Mayhems Ultraclear leeches plasticizer ((


----------



## Moose-Tech

hahler2 said:


> One other question. Was planning on using Mayhems 10/13 mm soft tubing. It is cheap and has really good reviews. And since I’m using biocide+ and inhibitor+ thought it would be good to use tubing from same manufacturer. However it is out of stock everywhere and I’m getting tired of waiting for it to come back in. Any recommendations on other tubing?


i use the 13/19 and can find good prices one ebay.

I use the 10/13 soft tubing on my loop and it works grate. I also run distilled with Mayhems Biocide+ and Inhibitor+. Greta stuff. Blitz part 2 does a great job of clearing out your loop before a refill, especially if changing coolants.


----------



## Moose-Tech

Congratulations on you upcoming wedding. Have a great time.


----------



## Mayhem

napych said:


> We need a new type of tubing. Mayhems Ultraclear leeches plasticizer ((


Since when! Mayhems does not leach any plastics.


----------



## skupples

better send a sample of your tube n coolant


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

napych said:


> We need a new type of tubing. Mayhems Ultraclear leeches plasticizer ((


Hello ,

i ditched my masterkleer 13/10 tubing .
I wasn't aware of the softener issue since 2013 

I recently bought 4m tygon norprene. 
Didnt used it atm my new stuff would cost me ~750euros.Mostly watercool components. 
Also planning to buy&test Watercool's EPDM tubing and maybe also a tygon 3400 tube. 

Also ordered a few coolants from mayhems, will report back after my tests but could be a longer wait till then.

Testbuild for watercooling:









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----------



## napych

I guess I should try Mayhems tubing once more. Used it with XT-1 and something in my blocks looks like plasticizer after 1 year of very moderate temperatures under 40C.
Maybe I’m just wrong.


----------



## napych

skupples said:


> better send a sample of your tube n coolant



Good idea!


----------



## skupples

can you send pics of your block gunk? did you test your fluid PH before getting rid of it all?

I've never personally used mayhem's branded tube, as I use clear coolant. however, I've yet to ever get serious plasticizer build up in any of my systems, using Adv. LRT.

IDR anymore, but I'm wondering if pH imbalance could increase/cause tubes to leach stuff.


----------



## ThrashZone

napych said:


> I guess I should try Mayhems tubing once more. Used it with XT-1 and something in my blocks looks like plasticizer after 1 year of very moderate temperatures under 40C.
> Maybe I’m just wrong.


Hi,
I just got some mayhems 3/8-5/8" soft tubing from modmymods seems okay only in for a week so far about to do my x99 rig with might do it today 
0.59 cents a foot hope it's not defective 
https://modmymods.com/mayhems-3-8-5-8-10-16mm-ultra-clear-tubing-mct10-16-30.html


----------



## ryan92084

napych said:


> I guess I should try Mayhems tubing once more. Used it with XT-1 and something in my blocks looks like plasticizer after 1 year of very moderate temperatures under 40C.
> Maybe I’m just wrong.


A lot of buildup gets mislabeled as plasticizer. Most obvious tell is a whitish dust like substance that coats just about everything but in particular the tubing interior where it can be rubbed off quite easily when dry. https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...hill-vs-masterkleer-tubing-4months-usage.html








Only after mixing with dyes etc does it get gunky.


----------



## napych

I can’t test PH right now because colored coolant and drop test do not work together.
It’s not dust-like, it’s jelly-like.
I’ll gather more info, try to repeat the situation, and e-mail Mayhems directly.


----------



## ThrashZone

Mayhem said:


> Its all down to personal p[refrnace. Me personally i like our biocide+ and inhib+ however for an all in one solution X1 clear.


Hi,
X1 clear premix turned greenish pretty quickly 1-2 days hardware labs rads on x99 system
Drained and just added distilled water and mayhems biocide and inhibitor and it's clear still one week 
Did not use blitz again 1 or 2.

x299 system still clear on X1 clear premix from day one going on a few weeks now.


----------



## ciarlatano

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> X1 clear premix turned greenish pretty quickly 1-2 days hardware labs rads on x99 system
> Drained and just added distilled water and mayhems biocide and inhibitor and it's clear still one week
> Did not use blitz again 1 or 2.
> 
> x299 system still clear on X1 clear premix from day one going on a few weeks now.


I've used X1 clear (concentrate) about a dozen times. Never had an issue with color change.


----------



## ThrashZone

ciarlatano said:


> I've used X1 clear (concentrate) about a dozen times. Never had an issue with color change.


Hi,
Premix I batting .500 
x299 x1 still clear 
x99 biocide inhibitor still clear

No telling why I don't mind using dw and biocide inhibitor 

Sort of surprised the biocide and inhibitor didn't come with the measuring tip but few drops of each what ever.


----------



## Mayhem

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Premix I batting .500
> x299 x1 still clear
> x99 biocide inhibitor still clear
> 
> No telling why I don't mind using dw and biocide inhibitor
> 
> Sort of surprised the biocide and inhibitor didn't come with the measuring tip but few drops of each what ever.


Do you think we should sell them as parts of a kit or Set?

This is a good question because we sell 3x more Biocides then we do inhibitors. If we add more such as a box, syringe, instruction sheet, design, barcodes, language conversions and worker time to put it all together this adds more cost to the base value. I feel this makes it look better but adds unnecessary cost to the product.


----------



## ThrashZone

Mayhem said:


> Do you think we should sell them as parts of a kit or Set?
> 
> This is a good question because we sell 3x more Biocides then we do inhibitors. If we add more such as a box, syringe, instruction sheet, design, barcodes, language conversions and worker time to put it all together this adds more cost to the base value. I feel this makes it look better but adds unnecessary cost to the product.


Hi,
I believe a little over thinking above although a kit would be great for newbies to water cooling and coolant options so biocide/ inhibitor kit would save looking for each item and yes eye dropper built into the caps would be ideal with 15ml marked.

You recommend 15ml of each per 1 liter yet no way to accurately measure that amount in either 250ml bottle.
Simple marked eye dropper at 15ml would suffice
At 12.50us I doubt the cost of a eye dropper is going to elevate the price all that much documentation is already on the bottle just no way to measure the amount.

Think at this point the items are poorly packaged as is.

Might as well just say add three drops per 1 liter lol would at least make more sense than 15ml with no way to measure that.


----------



## Mayhem

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I believe a little over thinking above although a kit would be great for newbies to water cooling and coolant options so biocide/ inhibitor kit would save looking for each item and yes eye dropper built into the caps would be ideal with 15ml marked.
> 
> You recommend 15ml of each per 1 liter yet no way to accurately measure that amount in either 250ml bottle.
> Simple marked eye dropper at 15ml would suffice
> At 12.50us I doubt the cost of a eye dropper is going to elevate the price all that much documentation is already on the bottle just no way to measure the amount.
> 
> Think at this point the items are poorly packaged as is.
> 
> Might as well just say add three drops per 1 liter lol would at least make more sense than 15ml with no way to measure that.


Well no other thinking there i do this for a living and know the hidden costs and know how to work it all out. Its ultra Strong and just water it down its that simple.


----------



## ThrashZone

Mayhem said:


> Well no o*v*er thinking there i do this for a living and know the hidden costs and know how to work it all out. Its ultra Strong and just water it down its that simple.


Hi,
Well all I did was post an observation and one from someone who has never used your products

You give me hidden costs as a reason there is no accurate measuring device built into the cap
And even with the existing bottle tip not a crud way to measure 15ml by drop method.

So with that I shall not bother ever making any observations of your products to you.

3 drops of each per 1 liter and one should get ph 7.
That is pretty though.


----------



## skupples

i guess I never even thought about it, being a life long pool operator. test. drip. test. repeat.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
It's just lazy instructions for the bottle biocide and inhibitor comes in.

I guess we should be thankful blitz 1 & 2 kit comes with a measuring cup which also give conflicting instructions go by the paper not the bottle :doh:


----------



## 414347

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> It's just lazy instructions for the bottle biocide and inhibitor comes in.
> 
> I guess we should be thankful blitz 1 & 2 kit comes with a measuring cup which also give conflicting instructions go by the paper not the bottle :doh:


I have to agree on that part. Although I use Mayhems drops and they are very effective, the instruction is very vague and to someone new can be difficult to figure out how to use it e.g. 0.5ml or 1.0ml per 1L doesn't really explain the amount of drop(s) then add amount (?) every so often and so on so forth.

I have never complain about Mayhems products because they are #1 in my book, but the instructions are the weakest link and can be very confusing and in some instances labels on both paper and bottle contradicting themselves, Instructions need much improvement to make people feel confident and comfortable on what they're doing.


----------



## ThrashZone

NewUser16 said:


> I have to agree on that part. Although I use Mayhems drops and they are very effective, the instruction is very vague and to someone new can be difficult to figure out how to use it e.g. 0.5ml or 1.0ml per 1L doesn't really explain the amount of drop(s) then add amount (?) every so often and so on so forth.
> 
> I have never complain about Mayhems products because they are #1 in my book, but the instructions are the weakest link and can be very confusing and in some instances labels on both paper and bottle contradicting themselves, Instructions need much improvement to make people feel confident and comfortable on what they're doing.


Hi,
Bingo 
Maintaining ph6-8 is another end of it where there is a gaping hole

I've read you say couple drops of each every couple months 

But really which is more needed see Mayhem himself said they sell more biocide than inhibitor should just biocide be added :/
Inquiring minds would like better documentation no doubt 

And no please do not suggest premix it's only 50-50% chance of staying clear.
Even mayhem said hardware labs rads they have issues with making fluid turn green/ blue and i can confirm the green bit.


----------



## war4peace

NewUser16 said:


> e.g. 0.5ml or 1.0ml per 1L doesn't really explain the amount of drop(s) then add amount (?) every so often and so on so forth.


How much does a syringe cost?


----------



## ciarlatano

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Bingo
> Maintaining ph6-8 is another end of it where there is a gaping hole
> 
> I've read you say couple drops of each every couple months
> 
> But really which is more needed see Mayhem himself _*said they sell more biocide than inhibitor*_ should just biocide be added :/
> Inquiring minds would like better documentation no doubt
> 
> And no please do not suggest premix it's only 50-50% chance of staying clear.
> Even mayhem said hardware labs rads they have issues with making fluid turn green/ blue and i can confirm the green bit.
> 
> Looking at it again 15ml is 1.01442 tablespoons
> So three drops of each isn't anywhere near enough but still gives ph7


You have been around OCN long enough to know that there is a plethora (if not outright majority) of fools who run only biocides with no thought to inhibitors in their loops. Think of how many times you have read "I run distilled with PT Nuke!" (nevermind the fact that they can't tell you which PT Nuke.....). With that, of course Biocide+ will outsell Inhibitor+.

But...yeah....having full instructions without conflicting instructions would be nice.


----------



## ThrashZone

ciarlatano said:


> *You have been around OCN long enough to know that there is a plethora (if not outright majority) of fools who run only biocides with no thought to inhibitors in their loops.* Think of how many times you have read "I run distilled with PT Nuke!" (nevermind the fact that they can't tell you which PT Nuke.....). With that, of course Biocide+ will outsell Inhibitor+.
> 
> But...yeah....having full instructions without conflicting instructions would be nice.


Hi,
Yep didn't think about that :doh:

Also made a gig booboo on the 15ml thing it's really 0.5ml per 1 liter 
Indeed bottles show nothing but a nice story of protection either provide and no measurements for application at all that stuff was just on PPC website :/


----------



## 414347

war4peace said:


> How much does a syringe cost?


You talking 0.5-1.0ml  Yap like I haven't thought of that. Try using syringe to measure that amount, It might work if you use a real medical syringe with needle where it can hold amounts of 0.xxml, but for an average person... Yap  

I have been testing the amounts of drops more then you can count, but we talking about confusion that the amount converts to drops and It's not very clear in some instances, especially to new users who want to get into using drops.


----------



## skupples

yeah I just realized i could use my blunt tip syringe kits. It was like $20 for a life time kit of blunt tips and syringes of all sizes.


----------



## Mayhem

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Bingo
> Maintaining ph6-8 is another end of it where there is a gaping hole
> 
> I've read you say couple drops of each every couple months
> 
> But really which is more needed see Mayhem himself said they sell more biocide than inhibitor should just biocide be added :/
> Inquiring minds would like better documentation no doubt
> 
> And no please do not suggest premix it's only 50-50% chance of staying clear.
> Even mayhem said hardware labs rads they have issues with making fluid turn green/ blue and i can confirm the green bit.


When i get back off my honeymoon ill do this for you all. Now i get were you coming from.

Ref blitz kits and miss labeling, its some thing im working on.


----------



## ThrashZone

Mayhem said:


> When i get back off my honeymoon ill do this for you all. Now i get were you coming from.
> 
> Ref blitz kits and miss labeling, its some thing im working on.


Hi,
Thank you 
Something like this wouldn't seem all that costly to add to the new bottles with 0.5 marking on it for one liter fluid.


----------



## war4peace

NewUser16 said:


> You talking 0.5-1.0ml  Yap like I haven't thought of that. Try using syringe to measure that amount, It might work if you use a real medical syringe with needle where it can hold amounts of 0.xxml, but for an average person... Yap


It's not rocket science, get an insulin syringe, holds 1ml and has gradations for 0.01ml minimum. I mean how hard could it be?


----------



## ThrashZone

war4peace said:


> It's not rocket science, get an insulin syringe, holds 1ml and has gradations for 0.01ml minimum. I mean how hard could it be?


Hi,
Plenty laying around California/... of course they use it for other stuff


----------



## ciarlatano

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Plenty laying around California/... of course they use it for other stuff


Or just start dumpster diving at hardcore gyms. Roidheads just love insulin syringes.


----------



## skupples

war4peace said:


> It's not rocket science, get an insulin syringe, holds 1ml and has gradations for 0.01ml minimum. I mean how hard could it be?


well, you see... they're actually illegal for non prescription distribution in most places. It's mediated by county, and some counties think restricting needle access helps reduce drug usage.

when in fact all it does is increase disease spread risk, abscess risk, and all sorts of nasty. 

your run of the mill physically addicted opiate addict is gonna use that rusty spike as many times as he can, even if he's not sure if it was someone elses, and even if its gonna give him an abscess per poke.


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> well, you see... they're actually illegal for non prescription distribution in most places. It's mediated by county, and some counties think restricting needle access helps reduce drug usage.
> 
> when in fact all it does is increase disease spread risk, abscess risk, and all sorts of nasty.
> 
> your run of the mill physically addicted opiate addict is gonna use that rusty spike as many times as he can, even if he's not sure if it was someone elses, and even if its gonna give him an abscess per poke.


But lab/industrial syringes with no needle are made for this type of usage and are not a controlled purchase. Perfectly legal anywhere. Just an example - https://www.amazon.com/DEKPRO-Resistant-Borosilicate-Dispensing-Applicator/dp/B07H7CVB4P/


----------



## skupples

right, like I said... My kit from amazon with a bag of 100 blunt tips was like $20 and came with a dozen different sizes. 

He asked why folks wouldn't just use insulin needles, and the answer would mostly be that you can't get them as easily as folks think from out west. Which sucks for junkies, but does nothing but make their junkyisms worse.


----------



## 414347

war4peace said:


> It's not rocket science, get an insulin syringe, holds 1ml and has gradations for 0.01ml minimum. I mean how hard could it be?


----------



## war4peace

I apologize, I didn't take this into account... countries which ban syringes because reasons  (while buying guns from stores is OK, at the same time)
Here where I live I just go to the nearest pharmacy and buy them. I have 5ml, 2.5ml and 1ml syringes, great for oiling very small motors for example.


----------



## skupples

I agree. It's a silly thing to prevent distribution on. It's even been studied, seems like all it does it help junkies kill themselves. So i guess its working as intended.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
If they give them away they all end up on the streets.

Bottom line if mayhem wants to keep the biocide and inhibitor bottle as is just alter the label 
Remove the pretty story of how good it is and put on there how many *drops* is needed for a 1 liter mixture of distilled water = easy.

Any of this info would be nice on the page 1 original post so it's easy for newbies to find and not have ask or search every page of a now 1672 page thread and frankly the only usage info is on PPC not on the bottle


----------



## skupples

who said give? they're about $2 a bag of 10.

The states that do give them away do it for disease prevention... unfortunately, the junkies don't realize this n end up rolling around in em.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> *who said give*? they're about $2 a bag of 10.
> 
> The states that do give them away do it for disease prevention... unfortunately, the junkies don't realize this n end up rolling around in em.


Hi,
Cough cough I did 

But in all seriousness this could all be fixed with a better label that describes a dosage for the bottle tip it has 
Not for measurement it doesn't have or nothing at all which is the way it is now.


----------



## Mayhem

Arrrr im nervous as it is tonight (wedding tomorrow) but when i get back "i will sort" ....... as per the norm. this is why i asked in the first place .


----------



## ThrashZone

Mayhem said:


> Arrrr im nervous as it is tonight (wedding tomorrow) but when i get back "i will sort" ....... as per the norm. this is why i asked in the first place .


Hi,
You should only be nervous if the bachelors party tonight has prettier girls than you're marring and if it does don't get too drunk


----------



## skupples

I used to joke that my buddies were too cheap for that to ever happen.

unfortunately though, its the lower earners that work harder for tips... i found out. luckily it wasn't my wedding though. That's not coming until my 40s at this point. I mean, if the kid and the HS Sweetheart didn't work out, then its time to just stack cash and relax for a decade.


----------



## Mayhem

Me and my lass have been together for 25 years so it all went well  next our honeymoon


----------



## ThrashZone

Mayhem said:


> Me and my lass have been together for 25 years so it all went well  next our honeymoon


Hi,
You'll have to shake and bake a little differently then


----------



## annul

Hello all, I'm currently seeing some build-up in my GPU block as shown in the following thread: https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1734124-brown-powdery-build-up-gpu-block.html

It was recommended in that thread that I post here as well. I'm using Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ with about 1L of distilled water for coolant. I added 2 drops each to the loop, as recommended by Mayhems in the comments section on one of their youtube videos: 




However, 2 drops seems a lot smaller than the recommended 0.5-1mL per liter of coolant. According to Google, a "drop" is 0.05mL, which is a whole order of magnitude smaller.

On a side note, I read the earlier discussion in this thread about unclear instructions and have to agree. If the correct measure is 2 drops of each per 1L of distilled water, it'd be great if that was included in the official instructions. I'd appreciate some guidance as to how I can figure out if I have the right amounts of Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ in my loop.


Thanks!


----------



## skupples

i'd recommend getting a ml spoon/blunt syringe from somewhere, and Ph strips


----------



## annul

skupples said:


> i'd recommend getting a ml spoon/blunt syringe from somewhere, and Ph strips


Here's what I posted in the other thread:



annul said:


> So a short update to this: I tested the pH level of the liquid and it looks like it's about 6-7 and a little bit on the greenish side. This seems normal to me, keeping in mind that I only added 2 drops each of Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ for approximately 1L of distilled water in my loop.
> 
> I'm beginning to doubt that this has anything to do with Mayhems and that it's most likely something from my radiator or something that's leaching.


I did end up buying some flat-tip 1 mL syringes from Amazon so I at least have the ability to dose correctly now.  

I'd still like to know if I need to add more/less depending on the pH level since I can't find any instructions for that. I'm pretty sure I have less than the recommended 0.5mL per liter.


----------



## skupples

I 100% agree that its not Mayhem's stuff. It's just that the dude that stated as such in your thread was SO CERTAIN, that calling him on it would'a probably caused e-fud. 

honestly, you should be good. I see stuff like that often after swapping new parts, and it typically fades with time. 

i miss the days of windowless GPU blocks


----------



## 414347

skupples said:


> i miss the days of windowless GPU blocks


That is exactly why I always had solid blocks


----------



## skupples

luckily I was smart enough to not part with my all copper supremacy. Some day I'll use it in a copper bend build  

some day = easily 2-3 years from now. those hours & dollars are much better spent elsewhere atm.


----------



## 414347

skupples said:


> luckily I was smart enough to not part with my all copper supremacy. Some day I'll use it in a copper bend build
> 
> some day = easily 2-3 years from now. those hours & dollars are much better spent elsewhere atm.


Yap


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Plexi top rules
Makes it easy to see if the block has junk in it blocking cooling fins without disassembling 

Three drops of each gave 7 for me

X1 clear turned green pretty quickly 
Since switching to distilled/ biocide and inhibitor all still clear.

x299 still clear with X1 clear so go figure about to tear down though to add watercool copper/ plexi vrm water block.


----------



## war4peace

skupples said:


> i miss the days of windowless GPU blocks


There's plenty of them still being produced.
I use Mayhems Pastel White in my main build, holds very well and takes whichever color I light my build with, great choice of liquid.
On my girlfriend's build I will be using Mayhems Pastel Red and there's another upcoming build (Steampunk Style, maybe autumn next year) which will use Mayhems Pastel Black.


----------



## skupples

good luck with the black.


----------



## war4peace

I had Pastel Black before but it was in soft tubing and didn't look good. I have tested it inside hard tubing and it looks good, but the Steampunk mod will feature copper tubing anyway, and the only places where the liquid will be visible are going to be the waterblocks and reservoir.


----------



## skupples

though it probably sounded snobish in your mind, I truly mean it. It sounds epic, I look forward to it.


----------



## war4peace

Thank you, I am aiming for a „Steampunk Oil Rig” style. I have an interesting idea on how to mask out wiring, but I need to get my paws on a good 3D printer before I start.


----------



## Undesirable

How come XT-1 Nuke is EOL and they only have V2 in clear and blue?


----------



## skupples

who knows, stuff is not worth it either way. yes, you can use it in your PC but its meant for sub-zero.


----------



## Undesirable

skupples said:


> who knows, stuff is not worth it either way. yes, you can use it in your PC but its meant for sub-zero.


It's worth it if you don't have to change coolant nearly as often and it has more tolerance to contamination in the loop.

Anyway, I think the new version has an improved formula to make it compatible with all tubing.


----------



## skupples

i suppose, mayhem's already lasts a stupid long time as is, 5 years is the longest I've run a single batch of X1 and everything came out looking spanking new, zero temp shift. etc

and yes, pretty sure he's in the process of making everything universal. there's also a combined bio+inhibitor coming soon as well .


----------



## Barefooter

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> *Plexi top rules
> Makes it easy to see if the block has junk in it blocking cooling fins without disassembling *
> 
> snip


This! I like to be able to see if there's any "junk" in there too.




war4peace said:


> There's plenty of them still being produced.
> I use Mayhems Pastel White in my main build, holds very well and takes whichever color I light my build with, great choice of liquid.
> On my girlfriend's build I will be using *Mayhems Pastel Red* and there's another upcoming build (Steampunk Style, maybe autumn next year) which will use Mayhems Pastel Black.


I was very disappointed with the actually color of the Pastel Red. If you don't already have some on hand, I would recommend buying a bottle to make sure you like the color in person. It actually looks more like pink to me.

Mayhems X1 Red on the left, EK CryoFuel Blood Red in the center, and the Mayhems Pastel Red on the right.


----------



## Undesirable

skupples said:


> i suppose, mayhem's already lasts a stupid long time as is, 5 years is the longest I've run a single batch of X1 and everything came out looking spanking new, zero temp shift. etc
> 
> and yes, pretty sure he's in the process of making everything universal. there's also a combined bio+inhibitor coming soon as well .


Nice one, I could only get a year at a time out of my X1 Yellow / Green before it became discoloured and browned up the tubing.


----------



## skupples

ahh, yeah. I don't do colors. They simply don't last, and I'm pretty lazy soo we don't mix well.

n as to red pastel... i mean, it is pastel  remember the oil crayons and miami?!


----------



## war4peace

Barefooter said:


> I was very disappointed with the actually color of the Pastel Red. If you don't already have some on hand, I would recommend buying a bottle to make sure you like the color in person. It actually looks more like pink to me


I have three liters of Pastel Red I have bought over six months ago, I have verified and what you showed in the picture doesn't match what I have, at all. It's not deep red, that's for sure, but it's not pinkish at all. As for the comparison with other liquids, I prefer opaque liquids. The others are semi-transparent, so no go for me.



skupples said:


> ahh, yeah. I don't do colors. They simply don't last, and I'm pretty lazy soo we don't mix well.


I don't know, my Pastel White remains white almost two years after filling the loop.


----------



## Barefooter

war4peace said:


> I have three liters of Pastel Red I have bought over six months ago, I have verified and what you showed in the picture doesn't match what I have, at all. It's not deep red, that's for sure, but* it's not pinkish at all*. As for the comparison with other liquids, I prefer opaque liquids. The others are semi-transparent, so no go for me.


I've seen pictures of it where it looks red and very nice. I thought maybe I got a bad batch, so I purchased from four different vendors over a 12 month period, ordering both pre-mixed and concentrate, and every batch I got looked the same pink and not red, so I just gave up on it.

Looking forward to seeing it in your build though.


----------



## Undesirable

There's nothing to stop you adding more dye into the mix though, is there?


----------



## war4peace

Undesirable said:


> There's nothing to stop you adding more die into the mix though, is there?


There's a risk of getting some really weird colors in your loop and then you are screwed. I mean, you would have to dump all the liquid from the loop, clean everything again, maybe replace tubing if you're unlucky.


----------



## skupples

Undesirable said:


> There's nothing to stop you adding more dye into the mix though, is there?


black is one of the more temperamental dyes, which suffer from shift if the littlest thing is off.


----------



## Mayhem

Oky were going to start releasing some of the real work behind the scenes on certain products. We will start with the Aurora range and some of the advanced work we have been doing on it. This was proof concept however resulted in what we consider failed work in this region and shows the steps we are taking in making more advanced fluids. unlike any other water cooling manufacturers we actually do create reports of which many we will never release. Some of this work fails and some doesn't. Enjoy reading and take notes in the process we do and this will give you a better understanding in the steps Mayhems has done and is working on to improve the efficiency and products designs in liquid cooling. Far from the kitchen we started up in . 

This was a failed attempt utilising Hydrogen and Plasma Treatment and advanced silicon wafer analysis. Yes what we do at Mayhems is way beyond what any one else even considers in the water cooling world for PCs. This report i now over 3 years old ........ hence the first to be released.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wc3jzi87w...ibility of mica in “Aurora” coolants.pdf?dl=0

We have now even more advanced methods that we have been working on but we have a lot more fails then we do good results but this is were our investments mainly go. We do not just talk the talk !!!!!!

If you have any questions just ask below and when i get time ill answer what i can. Most of the answers are in the docs and some things have been omitted due to ongoing R&D.


----------



## Mayhem

End of Line products

Mayhems Aurora 250ml / 1 Ltr
Mayhems Booster 15ml

These products are no longer Sold by Mayhems any more.


----------



## DaftConspiracy

Has anyone had issues with the UV reactivity with Mayhems X1 fluids? I just picked some up and I’m not getting any reaction whatsoever with my UV LEDs. The LEDs had some reactivity with my EK cryofuel (it was dim but it glowed) so I’m not sure if the X1 just needs a wider UV wavelength to react. These LEDs are rated for 385-400nm.


----------



## AlexSancheyko

*Mayhem* Hello! Immediately please forgive Google translation.
Have a question about MAYHEMS PASTEL BLUE 250ML


Spoiler















What’s in the photo after this text is the remnants of a liquid that wasn’t even poured into the water cooling system. She had no contact with anything except the bottle and the distillate, and air =)


Spoiler






















if the PC night stands, then a white precipitate can be seen at the bottom of the tubes = (

She gave such a result after 2-3 days as I mixed it with distilled water.

why could this happen?
1. poor distilled water?
2. did I buy a fake?
3. ???

It can be filtered through a filter and used further. Or is it just a replacement for a new one?
I really liked the blue pastel. She looks good. but now I'm afraid to take the concentrate. Suddenly something goes wrong again.
I will search in my country for ready-made pastel liquids in 1 liter bottles.



Spoiler


----------



## skupples

does it mix back in after turning the system back on?


----------



## chas1723

DaftConspiracy said:


> Has anyone had issues with the UV reactivity with Mayhems X1 fluids? I just picked some up and I’m not getting any reaction whatsoever with my UV LEDs. The LEDs had some reactivity with my EK cryofuel (it was dim but it glowed) so I’m not sure if the X1 just needs a wider UV wavelength to react. These LEDs are rated for 385-400nm.


I dont think LEDs are true UV so I would bet that is the problem. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## AlexSancheyko

skupples said:


> does it mix back in after turning the system back on?


thanks for asking!
Yes. If I turn on the PC, all the "particles" dissolve. After switching off the PC "particles" again settle on the bottom of the hose. 
I'll try to take a photo at lunch. Still don't know. Replace the liquid, or it can be cleaned through a filter, and pour again.


----------



## war4peace

The Pastel series liquids contain nanoparticles which settle if the system is turned off, however they shouldn't settle that quickly... unless you have very low liquid flow rate.


----------



## skupples

or maybe internal conditions affected the particles causing them to separate out faster? 

I didn't wanna come directly out & say what War4 said, as I couldn't clearly remember.


----------



## AlexSancheyko

war4peace said:


> The Pastel series liquids contain nanoparticles which settle if the system is turned off, however they shouldn't settle that quickly... unless you have very low liquid flow rate.


Thanks for the answer!
Is that really true? The label didn't say anything about the particles. I'm glad it's not a problem. I'll keep an eye on the system and the temperatures.
Fluid flow rate of about ~100-120 liters per hour.



skupples said:


> or maybe internal conditions affected the particles causing them to separate out faster?
> 
> I didn't wanna come directly out & say what War4 said, as I couldn't clearly remember.


I mixed it in a plastic bottle: 
UV blue x1 toxic coolant concentrate 250ml
+
750ml distilled water

I did not do this in the PC water cooling system. 
In the bottle there was a liquid that remained after pouring it into the water cooling system. It wasn't in contact with the pump or the water blocks or the radiators. But he appeared in it, too.

Гарно дякую панове!
(Thank you all for the answers!)


----------



## skupples

how did you prep your system, and how's flow?


----------



## AlexSancheyko

skupples said:


> how did you prep your system, and how's flow?


Are you talking about flushing the system? Yes I did. Washed with ordinary warm water for a very long time, then washed with distilled water. And after that already collected all components. 
The flow seems to be fine. My water cooling system is very cheap. The pump at the request of the manufacturer at 500 l / h. in fact will be in operation, taking into account the water blocks, radiators, it produces about 100 l / h at 2400 rpm

water cooling system:


Spoiler



- Full Cover Nikel Acetal EK-FC R9-290X
- Freezemod CPU waterblock Acetal 115x
- Syscooling pump SC-P67F DC12v 0.5A
- Barrow tank YK 180-50 v2
- Radiator Magicool 360 Slim G2 27mm
- x3 Scythe GentleTyphoon (D1225C12B4AP-14)
- BLACK ICE NEMESIS 280GTS-XFlow radiator
- x2 Corsair 140mm (A1425L12S-2)
- MAYHEMS PASTEL BLUE 250ML UV Blue x1 Toxic Coolant concentrate


----------



## skupples

i'd be willing to bet you didn't properly purge the loop for such temperamental things like pastel, which has caused the coolant to shift a bit, doing weird stuff.

everyone here will likely tell you - BLITZ KIT, BOTH PARTS! (or a home made solution of acid bath, then basic bath)


----------



## broodro0ster

Yea, I can only recommend the Blitz kit. I've used it before switching to pastel and I have zero issues. Temps and flow are still like day 1 and it's been a year since I filled my system with pastel.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

skupples said:


> (or a home made solution of acid bath, then basic bath)


 @skupples 

Hello,do you mean citric acid and natron for a basic ? 

Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## AlexSancheyko

skupples said:


> i'd be willing to bet you didn't properly purge the loop for such temperamental things like pastel, which has caused the coolant to shift a bit, doing weird stuff.
> everyone here will likely tell you - BLITZ KIT, BOTH PARTS! (or a home made solution of acid bath, then basic bath)





broodro0ster said:


> Yea, I can only recommend the Blitz kit. I've used it before switching to pastel and I have zero issues. Temps and flow are still like day 1 and it's been a year since I filled my system with pastel.


But how to explain the appearance of particles in a bottle?
This fluid has never been in a PC.


----------



## skupples

pastel settles. the thing that makes your eye love the way it looks are those nano particles.


----------



## Mayhem

Pastel as above is made up of Light blocking nano particle that are heavier than water and air. They use a positive "ion" charge that keep them Floating.

They will all ways fall out but when mixed using the force of water will re float.


----------



## DaftConspiracy

chas1723 said:


> I dont think LEDs are true UV so I would bet that is the problem.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I bought some new Darkside UV LEDs per Michael Wood's reccomendation and still no luck. I also noticed the coolant smells sweet and sort of like lemon juice. Is that normal? I'd expect it to smell more like glycol.


----------



## skupples

the smell is normal. sweet cheep boozy smell


----------



## DaftConspiracy

skupples said:


> the smell is normal. sweet cheep boozy smell


Good to know, I was wondering if maybe the bottle was mislabeled. Seems like an issue with the dye that was used in it. Anyone have any recommendations for a good UV yellow or green dye? I'd like to try adding some to my coolant, but this is the second "UV" dye/coolant that I've tried that doesn't react with UV light (the first was PrimoChill's Electric "UV" Blue dye). I'd like to buy something that has already been confirmed by users since it seems manufacturers are allowed to put whatever they want on labels regardless these days regardless of if it's true or not (seems to be the case with almost all computer component manufacturers right now).


----------



## skupples

it's because you're using UV LEDs. Get a cathode. Even the smallest ones will provide plenty of UV to make any dye glow.


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> it's because you're using UV LEDs. Get a cathode. Even the smallest ones will provide plenty of UV to make any dye glow.


This. I will be the third person in the thread to say the same.


----------



## skupples

i know i know, but some randoms on youtube and reddit said otherwise. Clearly mayhem's is the problem here  

there's a reason why many of us never moved into that format. Reddit and youtube are not built around accuracy of information. They're built around popularity, and we all know how that went back in primary school. The dumbest kids were always the coolest.


----------



## Mayhem

There could be an issue with his dye, which is entirely possible. We have had some issues with UV Green / UV Yellow green which was down to chemical incompatibility.


----------



## springs113

If the following has been asked before, my apologies... how is the pastel black? Is it oily black or does it have a purplish tint to it?


----------



## war4peace

springs113 said:


> If the following has been asked before, my apologies... how is the pastel black? Is it oily black or does it have a purplish tint to it?


Mine is oily black. If you want I could pour some in a bit of hard tubing and take a couple pictures, but mind you, I am not good at taking pictures


----------



## springs113

war4peace said:


> springs113 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If the following has been asked before, my apologies... how is the pastel black? Is it oily black or does it have a purplish tint to it?
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is oily black. If you want I could pour some in a bit of hard tubing and take a couple pictures, but mind you, I am not good at taking pictures /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

 that would b great thanks.


----------



## war4peace

Coming right up!
Since I currently have Mayhems Pastel Black, Red and White in my stash, I decided to take pictures of all three. The foam you see is from the shaking of the bottle, since they had been sitting on a shelf for some time.










https://i.imgur.com/***Rhxx.jpg



























































































Let me know if you need more pictures, or have questions.


----------



## springs113

war4peace said:


> Coming right up!
> Since I currently have Mayhems Pastel Black, Red and White in my stash, I decided to take pictures of all three. The foam you see is from the shaking of the bottle, since they had been sitting on a shelf for some time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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That's great, thanks a lot. It seems I may be able to make it work. I was going to use black tubing but black fluid may work.


----------



## Hequaqua

I don't see the info I need listed in the OP....and there are 1678 pages of info here.....

I have just a couple of simple questions really:

What are the ratios for mixing the Biocide and the Inhibitor? Would prefer drops/ml per gallon if possible.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah he was going to work out something to measure the stuff 
Three drops per liter of each gives ph7 for me that is 4 liters = 1.056688 gallons.

1 Gallon I'd guess 12 drops of each would be on the plus side 11 is likely on the negative.

Use 11 and test with ph strips you can always add a little more biocide/ inhibitor
Otherwise you'd be diluting with more distilled water.



> Mayhems Inhibitor+ & Biocide+ Comes in *15ml bottle and has a mix ration of 0.5%* (so 15mls is enough to make 30 Ltrs of Coolant).


----------



## Hequaqua

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah he was going to work out something to measure the stuff
> Three drops per liter of each gives ph7 for me that is 4 liters = 1.056688 gallons.
> 
> 1 Gallon I'd guess 12 drops of each would be on the plus side 11 is likely on the negative.
> 
> Use 11 and test with ph strips you can always add a little more biocide/ inhibitor
> Otherwise you'd be diluting with more distilled water.


I can do liters....just easier to get a gallon of distilled water....lol I wish the US would move to metric, it's so much easier...and I'm a old guy...lmao

THX :thumb:

Would these test strips work? Sorry....so noob here. 

https://www.amazon.com/Litmus-Strips-Universal-Application-Packs/dp/B00S730YWG

Guessing I would shoot for 7(Pure Water) correct?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yes ph strips look fine nice color gauge.. my blitz part 1 & 2 kit came with some ph strips

PH 7 is in the middle ph between 6 and 8 I settle for 7 and check it every month see if it changes.

Not sure I know what pure water is.


----------



## Hequaqua

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yes ph strips look fine nice color gauge.. my blitz part 1 & 2 kit came with some ph strips
> 
> PH 7 is in the middle ph between 6 and 8 I settle for 7 and check it every month see if it changes.
> 
> Not sure I know what pure water is.


Cool...there is a chart on that link showing the pH of different things:



Spoiler


----------



## broodro0ster

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah he was going to work out something to measure the stuff
> Three drops per liter of each gives ph7 for me that is 4 liters = 1.056688 gallons.
> 
> 1 Gallon I'd guess 12 drops of each would be on the plus side 11 is likely on the negative.
> 
> Use 11 and test with ph strips you can always add a little more biocide/ inhibitor
> Otherwise you'd be diluting with more distilled water.


That's waaaay too much. Michael said 1 drop of each for about 1-1.5L of water. The stuff is very potent.


----------



## skupples

Didn’t the potency change at some point?


----------



## Hequaqua

skupples said:


> Didn’t the potency change at some point?


IDK, but I saw a video from them...don't remember the date on it saying that it was more potent now....

I figure I'll add the Inhibitor and Biocide to my water and try to hit like 7.5 on the pH. That's what their coolant reads I believe with the additives in there already.


----------



## Mayhem

1 drop to 1 / 1.5 Ltrs = Biocide + and Inhibitor +

Biocide extreme is diffrent.


----------



## Hequaqua

Mayhem said:


> 1 drop to 1 / 1.5 Ltrs = Biocide + and Inhibitor +
> 
> Biocide extreme is diffrent.


Thanks for the heads up! :thumb:


----------



## ThrashZone

broodro0ster said:


> That's waaaay too much. Michael said 1 drop of each for about 1-1.5L of water. The stuff is very potent.


Hi,
I used 3 drops per one liter got PH7 so what ever.

How nice it would be to have accurate direction on a bottle bloody english :buttkick:


----------



## skupples

different hands, shaky, big, strong, weak... different drops I suppose.

I balanced a gallon, and no clue how much I used. a good squirt or two of both. so how many drops in a squirt?


----------



## Hequaqua

skupples said:


> different hands, shaky, big, strong, weak... different drops I suppose.
> 
> I balanced a gallon, and no clue how much I used. a good squirt or two of both. so how many drops in a squirt?


I didn't pay attention either really....I did a 2ltr bottle....just added equal parts till the pH paper was between 7 and 8....figured that was good. I'll probably check it with the pH paper once a week for a while and see how it goes.


----------



## skupples

yep, that's what we're aiming for, since we have no known way to check the balance of the anti-corrosion bit.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Mayhem said:


> 1 drop to 1 / 1.5 Ltrs = Biocide + and Inhibitor +
> 
> 
> 
> Biocide extreme is diffrent.


Many thanks!

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----------



## GAN77

Mayhems Inhibitor+ Comes in 15ml bottle and has a mix ratio of 0.05% (so 15mls is enough to make 30 Ltrs of Coolant).

Therefore 0.5 ml per 1 liter. For an accurate dosage, you can use a medical syringe.


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## skupples

true, though I think i'll stick to basing off of pH


----------



## GAN77

skupples said:


> true, though I think i'll stick to basing off of pH


What affects pH? Igibitor or biocide?


----------



## Justinator

I just bought a Swiftech X3 H360 that came prefilled with Mayhem Pastel White along with a set of dyes. After adding a dye, do I do anything (like shaking the unit or letting it sit) to make the dye mix with the coolant as you guys intend? Looking forward to finally using one of your products!


----------



## war4peace

Just turn it on, the dye will mix with the liquid.


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## Justinator

war4peace said:


> Just turn it on, the dye will mix with the liquid.


Awesome, thanks


----------



## Mayhem

The problem with us creating a chart (ive been working on this), we found the more copper in your system, E.g a 60mm rad to a 30mm rad changes (1,2,3,4,6 rads) the PH and changes how much you need. Its very difficult for me to post without some person complaining it didnt work in there system ( i hate the way the americans think they can sue every one because they do not do due diligence and trust me i've told a few were to go).

Ph checking is a good way to go and i'm glad people are using that method for checking there system, Its taken years of "Check the PH" (saying it over and over again) for people to start to understand! So PH balancing and checking =good.


----------



## ThrashZone

Mayhem said:


> The problem with us creating a chart (ive been working on this), we found the more copper in your system, E.g a 60mm rad to a 30mm rad changes (1,2,3,4,6 rads) the PH and changes how much you need. Its very difficult for me to post without some person complaining it didnt work in there system (* i hate the way the americans think they can sue every one because they do not do due diligence* and trust me i've told a few were to go).
> 
> Ph checking is a good way to go and i'm glad people are using that method for checking there system, Its taken years of "Check the PH" (saying it over and over again) for people to start to understand! So PH balancing and checking =good.


Hi,
Seems more like a EU thing to me they seem to sue google/ apple/... just for fun 

Taking some UK company to small claims court might seem fun but it's not likely going to happen dill hole.


----------



## skupples

I didn't think about that. That perfectly explains my situation then. I don't balance a jug, I balance the entire system. call it a bad american pool keeping habit. Why dilute in a bucket? THE WHOLE POOL IS A GIANT BUCKET! 

bwahahaha, threatening to sue instead of admitting you spent zero time RTFM. I love you, fellow Americans, and by love i mean loathe, and by loathe I mean, god gave you two ears, two eyes, and one mouth for a reason. RTFM.



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Seems more like a EU thing to me they seem to sue google/ apple/... just for fun


we gotta admit to the classic mantra of sue crazy america. As an American though, you typically think of CA and NY as the sue capitols of the world. Like, it was a genuine family fear when we moved from Florida to California. So was flying an American flag though, which we learned wasn't allowed, even all the way back then. They'd go missing after 2-3 days, EVERY time. old man started buying them by the 10 pack. He's not a vet, or a zealot. He just loves his country. Which you can do, no matter the state of government. luckily they're not one in the same.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Read on watercool website they say don't use mayhems fluids on their water blocks...


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Read on watercool website they say don't use mayhems fluids on their water blocks...


wouldn't be the first time he's had beef with manufacturers. They usually end up losing though.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
So it's a conspiracy of lazy brit company :doh:


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## iamjanco

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Read on watercool website they say don't use mayhems fluids on their water blocks...



Where? Only asking *because...*


----------



## skupples

I see Jakob endorsing X1 on their forum, and others endorsing inhibitor. 

I wonder if you stumbled across some old website entry from when everyone hated Mayhems, and thought pastel,etc were system killing snake oils.


----------



## ThrashZone

iamjanco said:


> Where? Only asking *because...*





skupples said:


> I see Jakob endorsing X1 on their forum, and others endorsing inhibitor.
> 
> I wonder if you stumbled across some old website entry from when everyone hated Mayhems, and thought pastel,etc were system killing snake oils.


Hi,
My bad someone posted to a alphacool kit on aqua tuning site 
https://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-...izzard-copper-45-3x120mm-complete-kit?c=23067

Mayhems does sell alphacool parts like fittings so looks like maybe aqua tuning site needs some updating or clarification they mean only Aurora fluids void warranties not other products like X1/... or biocide/ inhibitor solutions.

Although they do point out Aurora line they don't say it's the only line up that voids warranties that I can tell.


> Notice:
> 
> Attention: The manufacturer Mayhems advises that Mayhems fluids,* especially the Aurora line of products,* have been manufactured and distributed solely for show and modding purposes. These should not be utilized in the system for more than 14 days.
> 
> We would also like to advise that Mayhems fluids can damage water cooling products, *and using Mayhems fluids can thereby void the warranties offered by the following manufacturers: Koolance, Phobya, Alphacool, Aqua Computer, Watercool.*
> 
> Damages such as: clogging, corrosion of aluminium radiators, deterioration of glued containers, etc., are a consequence of the use of Mayhems, but will not be reimbursed by Mayhems. Use is therefore at one’s own risk.


----------



## Mayhem

Spoke with Aquata Tuning over this many times and gave up trying. Somethings are worth pursuing and somethings are not. Our products speak for themselves 

Ref suing im in court next year which is going to be funny as hell, cannot say much on here just yet (do not want to spoil the surprise as some one's hard invested money they threw at the case disappears down the drain fast). but this one will be funny.


----------



## skupples

they're just clinging on to the nonsense of literally a decade ago at this point. -.-

oooooh yummy! I love when big corporations get the shaft in cases they initiated.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Seeing they list other manufactures including watercool you'd think they would ask to be removed if it were outdated and or untrue..

For mayhem himself you do seem a little full of yourself.


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Seeing they list other manufactures including watercool you'd think they would ask to be removed if it were outdated and or untrue..
> 
> For mayhem himself you do seem a little full of yourself.


and now you know how he's rubbed all these different orgs the wrong way


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## ThrashZone

Hi,
Last few replies from mayhem have really been reveling to his demeanor 

Yeah stick with the pretty little storing on the labels it's way more useful than actual application 
Not even child consumption warnings either hope it comes up in court that might knock that smirk off your face :thumb:


----------



## skupples

that's because its all organic. you might even catch a buzz of x1


----------



## Mayhem

welcome to Mayhems.

The labels are getting updated but this takes time to filtrate though the system.


----------



## Shawnb99

Is Blitz kit Part 1 and 2 safe to use with Aluminum loops?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
ph test strips and test meters are also as frustrating to find meters calibration bs 
Mayhems test strips must be like all reviews of others I've read all of them show ph7 no matter what type of water is used :doh:


----------



## skupples

really? 

i'd recommend going to the pool store, and getting an actual fresh sealed bottle. They lose accuracy over time, and the kits @ home depot/amazon could be ancient, tbf.


----------



## bkrownd

Hi - my name is bkrownd, and I'm a n00b. (who's shopping for coolant and additives) The internet tells me this stuff will melt my CPU and possibly result in a Spontaneous Black Hole. What's the 411 on all this kerfuffle, please?


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## war4peace

Not sure if trolling...


----------



## bkrownd

war4peace said:


> Not sure if trolling...



Nope, I've read multiple strange warnings/complaints about this stuff elsewhere, but on here people are recommending it, so I'm confused.


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## ciarlatano

bkrownd said:


> Nope, I've read multiple strange warnings/complaints about this stuff elsewhere, but on here people are recommending it, so I'm confused.


it's the internet. How are you confused? People randomly blame any issues on whatever is most convenient. EK has a huge run of bad nickel plating? Must be the fluid they are using since EK is the most besterer in the world. Don't bother to read the instructions and warnings on Aurora and use it 24/7 for a year and have it turn to gunk? No problem, just say it's a bad product that ruins loops and make sure you use a blanket statement of all Mayhems products.

In short, I have never seen a legit issue with Mayhems that wasn't entirely user error excepting the issue with the single batch of clear blue that was pulled from the shelves.


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## ThrashZone

bkrownd said:


> Hi - my name is bkrownd, and I'm a n00b. (who's shopping for coolant and additives) The internet tells me this stuff will melt my CPU and possibly result in a Spontaneous Black Hole. What's the 411 on all this kerfuffle, please?


Hi,
lol 
Well x1 clear could turn greenish 
Had one build do that just flushed it out and used mayhems biocide+ and inhibitor+ and it's stayed clear.

One rig still has x1 clear in it and doing fine both have hardware labs radiators in them which has been said to be why the x1 clear may turn greenish.


----------



## Shawnb99

bkrownd said:


> Nope, I've read multiple strange warnings/complaints about this stuff elsewhere, but on here people are recommending it, so I'm confused.


What strange warnings/complaints have you heard?


----------



## skupples

bkrownd said:


> war4peace said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if trolling...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, I've read multiple strange warnings/complaints about this stuff elsewhere, but on here people are recommending it, so I'm confused.
Click to expand...

This thread is plenty proof of what’s good.

Depending on what you wanna do, it’ll be the best coolant choice you’ve ever made. Just realize not RTFM = stuff goes wrong. 

I’ve been recommending X1 and the + series for as long as I’ve been using them. I’ve yet to have a single person come at me that I was wrong. 

Folks that Kurfürstendamm things up typically skip steps, mainly getting your loop properly clean before using dye, pastels, etc. luckily mayhems now sells a cleaning kit. Big surprise here, the number of complaints in this thread have gone down to near zero since folks have started using Blitz before the fancy stuff.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Blitz part 1 is the harshest product
Flushing it out of radiators is a chore in it's self and even ek states it's not compatible with their fluids.


----------



## skupples

Yeah I wouldn’t use it with anything but Micks stuff. Part 2 is pretty good all around tho.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> Yeah I wouldn’t use it with anything but Micks stuff. Part 2 is pretty good all around tho.


Hi,
Makes you wonder a little 
Seeing the instructions on the blitz part 1's bottle and white paper are light years different on potency on just how harsh part 1 can be so if someone followed the bottle and ran it through an entire system instead of just the rads what would happen = meltdown ...


----------



## war4peace

I never cleaned my radiators. Ever. Except for running automotive distilled water through them, but that was primarily for leak testing TBH. Never had a problem either, but that doesn't mean nobody would have a problem. Just saying there was no need in my case to use Blitz, even when reusing radiators.


----------



## bkrownd

Shawnb99 said:


> What strange warnings/complaints have you heard?



Well some web sites have worrying disclaimers about using Mayhems product. I suspect they're referring to the pearlescent "aurora" stuff, but they don't specify. Several user reviews on amazon saying "killed my system" etc. 



(Reading all the stuff about several companies' colored fluids just make me want to stick to clear in general.)







ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> lol
> Well x1 clear could turn greenish



from interaction with copper?


----------



## skupples

yeah, that's not surprising. Aurora is incredibly tempermental, and amazon users likely did nothing but just dump it into their system. The amount of prep work required for it to not shift is pretty hefty, same for trying to use black dyes. 

aside from that - as far as additives go. X1 or Biocide+ inhibitor+ are phenomenal products. I used x1 in a soft tube sytsem i didn't properly clean, and ignored it for 5 years. Only took 5 minutes to clean the blocks back to new (minus some copper patina)



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Makes you wonder a little
> Seeing the instructions on the blitz part 1's bottle and white paper are light years different on potency on just how harsh part 1 can be so if someone followed the bottle and ran it through an entire system instead of just the rads what would happen = meltdown ...


for sure, mick assumes his users do their due dilligence, and they don't. the amazon reviews are pretty funny. too bad they didn't stumble on this little thread first. I wonder if we show up on the 1st page when googling mayhems? I can't really test it, my results would be tainted.

imagine running that body dissolving grade acid straight, then filling w. coolant, turning on your dual pump at full blast... your radiators would turn into sprinklers.

as stated, step 1 is overkill for most folks, unless they're trying to build a top tier beast with funky coolant, and then continue to run said funky coolant as a daily driver.

you can easily recreate this at home with less caustic stuff, and a simple baking soda wash.

orrrr, just do it the old school way (lots of hot water), and use normal coolant = 99% of problems solved.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Hi all ,

yesterday i was disassembling my Loop and noticed that the filter was nearly...closed with a brown buildup.
The Loop is used since 3 weeks.

So i put out all the DP Ultra and filtered for later re-use and have found this browny powdery substance. 

I cleaned the rad which is a mora 420 pro with citric acid and cillit bang orange(5min) and afterwards cillit bang green(5min) .
Rad was unused and closed for nearly 2 years .I didnt mix them i starte with citric acid ,then flushed, used cb stuff then flushed .The water that was coming out was clean after flushing and using distilled water afterwards. So i moved in assembling and now this...so i have done something wrong i think...

And after assembling and refilling i noticed another browny soup in the Reservoir. 

New components i added to this Loop : Bykski Ft3tnv2 fittings, watercool epdm tube,and a HK IV Acetal Block .
My guess is the rad but i cleaned it for a few hours before i used it and after flushing i used distilled water...what do you guys think?

What should i do next? 
Clean rad and also the other stuff tube and HK Block,fittings?

I also own now a Blitz Kit part 1 +2.
Also @home citric acid, baking Soda, descaling solution and Apple vinegar.

So many options i dunno where to start FIRST...cause this time i wanna make it the right way









Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


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## ryan92084

Always hard to diagnose these things via pictures but my first guess would be organic. Does the res interior under the water line feel slimy/slick to the touch at all?


----------



## skupples

so you cleaned it out, but used only distilled water on the fill? most likely organic. 

sooooooo many people like to claim pure distilled just works, but it never has for more than month or two for me.

advice run part 2, and get X1 or Biocide+ and Inhibitor+


----------



## GAN77

Mayhems Blitz One Shot - Is this a new cleanser?
https://www.mayhems.net/collections/cleaning/products/mayhems-blitz-one-shot


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

skupples said:


> so you cleaned it out, but used only distilled water on the fill? most likely organic.
> 
> 
> 
> sooooooo many people like to claim pure distilled just works, but it never has for more than month or two for me.
> 
> 
> 
> advice run part 2, and get X1 or Biocide+ and Inhibitor+


I used the distilled water after flushing and then filled up with AC DP Ultra Clear.

I also own biocide+ and inhibitor + and the x1 uv clear concentrate .
So part2 is the stuff you run in a Loop for cleaning?

Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


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## skupples

correct, part 2 is for cleaning the whole loop. it's what you'd use after acid washing with a diluted part 1, just RTFM, then use the X1 to follow up. everything should be smooth sailing after.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

thx for the advice will do it this way!

Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## Mayhem

We've had to stop selling "One sho"t due to bottle expanding on planes (due to pressure) and blowing. Were working on a solution for this ..... Basically making it create less gas when under pressure. Its some thing we never even thought about until one company told us what had happened.

Id in doubt though use the blitz kit, its defo the no1 world wide seller, and we know as we've been shifting thousands of these each month (my staff do not like making them haha).


----------



## bkrownd

Is X1 V2 "eco" an alternate product from X1, or does it replace the original?


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## skupples

its a replacement. he's revamped the entire series, n said the new stuff would slowly trickle in. best I know, you're the first person to even ask


----------



## drifter93

Hi there! If I would like to use some propylene glycol (Pharmeceutical Grade, same as the one used in vaping, purity > 99.5%) would that work with any combination of metals? Especially with EK's stuff which are super sensitive. For example I read that the lowest advisable percentage is 33% of Propylene Glycol, so would that recipe (for 1lt) work using Mayhem's new products?

350ml Propylene Glycol 
650ml Water For Injection (double distilled and sterile hospital water) 
2 drops of Mayhem Biocide+
2 drops of Mayhem Inhibitor+

Thank's a lot guys


----------



## war4peace

Is there a reason you want to use PG for your loop?


----------



## drifter93

All of commercial fluids use either ethyl glycol or propylene glycol for higher anti corrosive properties. It creates a film and protects the metal parts. But it has to be 33% or higher. Ethyl glycol is hard to find and somewhat but a little better because it degrades slower. Propylene Glycol is very easy to find, is cheap and if changed one per year is perfectly fine


----------



## Mayhem

drifter93 said:


> All of commercial fluids use either ethyl glycol or propylene glycol for higher anti corrosive properties. It creates a film and protects the metal parts. But it has to be 33% or higher. Ethyl glycol is hard to find and somewhat but a little better because it degrades slower. Propylene Glycol is very easy to find, is cheap and if changed one per year is perfectly fine


X1 is neither, XT1 is Ethylene Glycol (non Toxic)


----------



## skupples

drifter93 said:


> Hi there! If I would like to use some propylene glycol (Pharmeceutical Grade, same as the one used in vaping, purity > 99.5%) would that work with any combination of metals? Especially with EK's stuff which are super sensitive. For example I read that the lowest advisable percentage is 33% of Propylene Glycol, so would that recipe (for 1lt) work using Mayhem's new products?
> 
> 350ml Propylene Glycol
> 650ml Water For Injection (double distilled and sterile hospital water)
> 2 drops of Mayhem Biocide+
> 2 drops of Mayhem Inhibitor+
> 
> Thank's a lot guys


not sure why you'd want to play mad scientist if you've already decided to use mayhem's products? If you want sub-zero, use XT1. If not, use X1. He's worked the glycol outta anything not meant for cooling sub-zero.

or just stick with the drops, they're more than enough. No need to add stuff on top of them. Glycol reduces total cooling potential, if I remember correctly. You're mostly shooting yourself in the theoretical foot.


----------



## Mayhem

*Mayhems Pastel XTR*
"The coolant that can outlast your PC"

Mayhems new range of Pastel XTR is a totally new product range made from the ground up in the UK utilising some of the most creative and experimental technology we have in the UK right at this time. Mayhems teamed is with several Nano Development labs in the UK with the idea of improving the Pastel line of Nano coolants. It has taken 2 years of R&D to push the boundaries of what we can achieve.

The new line of Mayhems Pastel XTR (short for extreme) has taken over 2 years of devolvement and get to a level that we can now manufacture on mass. One of the primary goals was to be able to create a better suspended nanoparticle that would have a much better drop out value than in the past and we have managed to achieve this. We have also been working on its longevity without compromising the integrity of the liquid cooling system. Another goal was the purifying of the individual particles to a level never seen before with in our industry and once again we have managed to achieve this.

With our new factory line and new Nano testing equipment we can keep the QC high and produce on mass like never seen before. We also have direct excess to new technologies that we have never had in the past which enable to push our R&D even further and beyond the scope never seen before. 

There will be two versions available. One being a consumer product and one being a professional product. The consumer level system will be available first. The pro product incorporates extra technologies to clean the partials down to a nonconductive coolant ready for direct die and direct contact application.

*Pointers of “Mayhems Pastel XTR”*

• 20 to 40nm in size
• 5 to 10 year in system life (regular maintenance will be needed)
• Up to 10 years shelf life
• 100% UV A,B,C blocking (nothing will grow in your system as light cannot pass).
• Biocide long term protection
• Long-life anti corrosive protection.
• Extreme QC controls in house

For the Tek's out there -> 

• Zeta Potential <-30 mV -39.8
• PH 7.27 stable (more testing is needed for "full" PH ranges.)
• ORP to be confirmed.
• Conductivity : pro 0.0001 μS and Consumer 0.05 μS +/- 0.1% / Pro tested indpendantly due to nature of the product. 
• Watt 7.5 to 10% (tested drop out of 0.01% over 20 days) Instant pick up with a nominal flow.
• Each batch certificate will be held on records and Independently verified. 

*Still to do.* 

* This is for ambient cooling only atm, were working on sub zero versions to go down to -65c.
* Storage temp 15c to 30c, max working temp 99c (under pressure) before loss of -mV value, long term testing and more work needed in this area.
* PH lower and higher testing still needed (were saving up for the equipment for this)
* External Factors like uncleaned rads still needs more testing.


One of the goals of this new Nano coolant was to cut the cost of ownership of this product, because it has such a long life span the total value of ownership will much cheaper than in the past especially since its life cycle goes way past any thing on the market at this present moment in time. 

All R&D is a product of the profit from Mayhems sales and us directly injecting the profit back into Mayhems to improve liquid cooling. This is where your money goes!

ETA : 2020.... Keep an eye on our website. This is still WIP.


----------



## war4peace

skupples said:


> Glycol reduces total cooling potential, if I remember correctly. You're mostly shooting yourself in the theoretical foot.


Yes, they do.
I usually refer to this table when checking Thermal Conductivity. According tho it, people generally should go for water unless they want to use Hydrofluoric acid or Mercury in their builds 
The problem is that both are extremely toxic and dangerous. So yeah, better just use water, or a premix, or drops.


----------



## skupples

we've come a long way from pigeon poop


----------



## BradleyW

skupples said:


> yeah, that's not surprising. Aurora is incredibly tempermental, and amazon users likely did nothing but just dump it into their system. The amount of prep work required for it to not shift is pretty hefty, same for trying to use black dyes.
> 
> aside from that - as far as additives go. X1 or Biocide+ inhibitor+ are phenomenal products. I used x1 in a soft tube sytsem i didn't properly clean, and ignored it for 5 years. Only took 5 minutes to clean the blocks back to new (minus some copper patina)
> 
> 
> 
> ThrashZone said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Makes you wonder a little
> Seeing the instructions on the blitz part 1's bottle and white paper are light years different on potency on just how harsh part 1 can be so if someone followed the bottle and ran it through an entire system instead of just the rads what would happen = meltdown ... /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> 
> 
> for sure, mick assumes his users do their due dilligence, and they don't. the amazon reviews are pretty funny. too bad they didn't stumble on this little thread first. I wonder if we show up on the 1st page when googling mayhems? I can't really test it, my results would be tainted.
> 
> imagine running that body dissolving grade acid straight, then filling w. coolant, turning on your dual pump at full blast... your radiators would turn into sprinklers.
> 
> as stated, step 1 is overkill for most folks, unless they're trying to build a top tier beast with funky coolant, and then continue to run said funky coolant as a daily driver.
> 
> you can easily recreate this at home with less caustic stuff, and a simple baking soda wash.
> 
> orrrr, just do it the old school way (lots of hot water), and use normal coolant = 99% of problems solved.
Click to expand...

X1 is brilliant. A must have. A wonder product. Works brilliantly at an affordable price and can last a long while over its service lift of 9-12 months. Not recommended of course.


----------



## bkrownd

war4peace said:


> people generally should go for water unless they want to use Hydrofluoric acid or Mercury in their builds



Mercury cooling? Now THAT is metal AF! :guitar:


----------



## skupples

but how would you cool it?


----------



## war4peace

That's a tricky feat. 1L of Mercury weighs 13.53 kg, so you will need a very strong pump. Also, mercury amalgamates with most other metals, however you could platinum-coat your waterblocks (instead of nickel-coating them). Not sure what you could do about the radiators, I guess you could make them of iron, which doesn't form an amalgam with mercury. Don't use steel, though, because mercury corrodes it.
Due to its extreme weight per volume, you would need thick glass tubing, although I suspect 16/10 tubing would suffice.

Looking at the above, I guess it's not worth it


----------



## skupples

yeah it would be quite the cluster lol

i mean, even CLU eats away at your blocks and that has minute mercury & galium.


----------



## war4peace

Truth be told, it _had_ been one of my "what if...?" things related to watercooling, until I researched it and realized it's next to impossible. It would definitely not help GPU waterblocks but would very likely drop CPU temperatures because it would soak away heat much more rapidly.


----------



## Shawnb99

Why is my tubing all going cloudy? I thought mayhems tubing was plasticizer free


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Looks exactly what i had a 2 years ago but with masterkleer tube. 
Horribile [emoji33]

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----------



## Shawnb99

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> Looks exactly what i had a 2 years ago but with masterkleer tube.
> Horribile [emoji33]
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk




That’s less then 6 months of use. Very disappointed on Mayhems tubing if it’s doing this.


----------



## skupples

that's what clear tubing does... specially if water isn't well balanced, & its warm in your office.

Alex over in OMPT just got done going to battle with clear tubing, they all shifted dramatically rather quickly.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I didn't see any issues with the tygon laboratory stuff it just wasn't very stiff at 10-13mm is all 
Now I'm on 10-16mm fitting if the mayhem tubing goes bad I'll just switch back to thicker tygon. 
Only other thing I didn't like on tygon is the printing on it.


----------



## dwolvin

honestly, I've used a few clear tubes and as long as the distilled (plus whatever) going in is clean they seem to stand up just fine.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah my PH was off for the last month or so. Hopefully i can keep the next batch of tubing clearer


----------



## ryan92084

Pretty sure mine doesn't look nearly that bad after a year. Basically as soon as its wet it stops being as "crystal clear" as it was as I found out when i swapped a piece of tubing a month or so in. It'll also pick up any little bits of particulate matter in the loop more than other tubes I've used. But yes not all clouding is plasticizer just take a swipe of the interior of the tube to see.

Still looks better than yellowing primochill imo.




skupples said:


> ...snip
> Alex over in OMPT just got done going to battle with clear tubing, they all shifted dramatically rather quickly.


Mind sharing? My Google Fu is failing me.


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah my PH was off for the last month or so. Hopefully i can keep the next batch of tubing clearer


Hi,
Another hardware lab rad victim
What did the fluid look like.


----------



## skupples

ryan92084 said:


> Pretty sure mine doesn't look nearly that bad after a year. Basically as soon as its wet it stops being as "crystal clear" as it was as I found out when i swapped a piece of tubing a month or so in. It'll also pick up any little bits of particulate matter in the loop more than other tubes I've used. But yes not all clouding is plasticizer just take a swipe of the interior of the tube to see.
> 
> Still looks better than yellowing primochill imo.
> 
> 
> 
> Mind sharing? My Google Fu is failing me.


eh, not all that exciting. OMPT - our one million post thread, and it was maybe 2 months ago.

he ran thru multiple adv LRT, and others before throwing in the towel. His was an extreme example, shifting within days.

I still use adv lrt white/black, i've been using it forever, next run will be EK's norpene thoug.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Ek has norprene? Maybe you meant zmt(epdm) ,cant find it...

btw what is that ompt you Talk about ?

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----------



## skupples

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> Ek has norprene? Maybe you meant zmt(epdm).
> 
> btw what is that ompt you Talk about ?
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


ah, ok, thanks. what's why its more flexible then normal norprene  
One Million Post thread club, here on OCN, in off topic.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

skupples said:


> ah, ok, thanks. what's why its more flexible then normal norprene
> 
> One Million Post thread club, here on OCN, in off topic.


Fine !

Thanks man

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----------



## DarthBaggins

Clear tubing (Soft) is why I've stuck with EK's ZMT tubing (10/16mm), been running my fluid for nearly two years w/ no discoloration to my blocks (EK acrylic/Nickel) nor fluid has changed at all (Fluid is EK's clear from when Mayhems made it for them)


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Another hardware lab rad victim
> 
> What did the fluid look like.




Was perfectly clear


----------



## ezveedub

Mayhems tubing is cheap enough to be replaced yearly if need be. Mayhems even says so. Clear tubing is always have some clouding, but look fine with coolant in it. If you want perfectly clear tubing over time, use acrylic or glass tubing. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah I’ll just learn to live with cloudy tubing.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I am planning on moving back to PETG or Acrylic in my build so I can finally use the Pastel L. Gray I have had for the past year and a half. I do miss the look of having Pastel in my loops.
Also is the new Corsair coolant compatible w/ current Mayhems coolants, if its been asked or not I haven't seen anything on it's compatibility with X1 etc, if it is.


----------



## skupples

i wouldn't mix coolants, period. 

unless you know the exact makeup of each one


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mayhems is the OEM for the Corsair coolants from what I remember them saying, so didn't know if it was a variant of X1 etc


----------



## skupples

I remember Mick saying he'd be making coolant for some big boys soon, just don't remember which ones.


----------



## ciarlatano

DarthBaggins said:


> Mayhems is the OEM for the Corsair coolants from what I remember them saying, so didn't know if it was a variant of X1 etc





skupples said:


> I remember Mick saying he'd be making coolant for some big boys soon, just don't remember which ones.


Corsair was the one Mick identified positively. That said, he would not answer the question as to whether the Corsair fluid would just be rebranded X1 or a variant. It's Corsair, so they probably have him filling bottles with colored wastewater from his facility that they can charge top dollar for it (look at that 50%+ upcharge on the HWL L Series rads). In other words.....just buy the Mayhems branded fluid, why take a chance on and overpay for Corsair shenanigans.


----------



## ThrashZone

ciarlatano said:


> Corsair was the one Mick identified positively. That said, he would not answer the question as to whether the Corsair fluid would just be rebranded X1 or a variant.* It's Corsair, so they probably have him filling bottles with colored wastewater from his facility that they can charge top dollar for it (look at that 50%+ upcharge on the HWL L Series rads).* In other words.....just buy the Mayhems branded fluid, why take a chance on and overpay for Corsair shenanigans.


Hi,
Oops someone let the cat out of the bag


----------



## DarthBaggins

I have stuck w/ EK/Mayhems for hardware and fluids since I have had zero issues w/ them. Just have been tempted with some of Corsair's new cooling hardware, but due to a previous issue I had w/ Bitspower's blocks I refuse to buy into that (which means I will more than likely not buy Corsair's since BP's the OEM for them). I would love to change out my blocks to HeatKiller but tracking down a 1080ti block has become a pain.


----------



## skupples

or using the old pigeon poop formula


----------



## ciarlatano

DarthBaggins said:


> I have stuck w/ EK/Mayhems for hardware and fluids since I have had zero issues w/ them. Just have been tempted with some of Corsair's new cooling hardware, but due to a previous issue I had w/ Bitspower's blocks I refuse to buy into that (which means I will more than likely not buy Corsair's since BP's the OEM for them). I would love to change out my blocks to HeatKiller but tracking down a 1080ti block has become a pain.


Why would you buy into _*any*_ of the Corsair BS? Why would you spend the same amount for an L Series rad as you would a GTS? Just because it has a little sailboat on it? And if one wants BP blocks.....just buy BP blocks for less.

And....I hope you find that Heatkiller. It's a beautiful block.


----------



## skupples

all of Corsair's stuff is rebranded from what I understand. Silly waste, just like with power supplies. Always better to order from the manufacturer, or genuine resellers. NOT including amazon  defund bezos, we've given him plenty of loot already.


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> all of Corsair's stuff is rebranded from what I understand. Silly waste, just like with power supplies. Always better to order from the manufacturer, or genuine resellers. NOT including amazon  defund bezos, we've given him plenty of loot already.


Hey! Watch it there. I have a chunk of AMZN stock in my portfolio.


----------



## skupples

ciarlatano said:


> Hey! Watch it there. I have a chunk of AMZN stock in my portfolio.


the best place for anything amazon, is in your portfolio. that's for damn sure. 300,000,000% over IPO or whatever (maybe just 300,000)

I really need to get to work on a portfolio. I keep calling things, seeing them become billionaires years later, and being like "darn, there goes another one!"


----------



## Trestles126

Been using mayhems white opaque for 2 years in my caselabs duel loop. The cpu/ram loop lost its pastel color Maybe 2 months ago happened pretty abruptly. I don’t use the computer much lately and noticed my res was clear with some slight white sludge build up in the top corner. My loop is highly custom. The loop that lost the color has the Rads down in the pedestal. I took all components apart block wise and everything was completely clean. Only place I can think of that the opaque particles are are in the 2 Rads below.

I just re blitzed it with part two and ordered another full kit to do a run of it thru it. Did get some color out of the discharge. Any other suggestions before I pull the entire ped apart to take Rads out. I was very suprised all my blocks were clean as could be. 

I bought two new quarts of mayhem white but thinking about going clear after having the opaque disappear on me.


----------



## skupples

A.) pastel settles, nano particles n all.
B.) definitely isn't made to last years on end.
C.) lots of flushing, then blitz #2


----------



## m4fox90

OK So i've picked up Mayhems Blitz 1 & 2 and despite the directions being pretty clear, I'm just confused on one thing...

Is it okay to run Part 1 through the system with the pump? Or do we really need to take out rads from loop and leave them to sit in it?


----------



## jvillaveces

m4fox90 said:


> OK So i've picked up Mayhems Blitz 1 & 2 and despite the directions being pretty clear, I'm just confused on one thing...
> 
> Is it okay to run Part 1 through the system with the pump? Or do we really need to take out rads from loop and leave them to sit in it?


It's a very bad idea to run Blitz Part 1 through any plastic parts (blocks, tubing, pump) or any plating (blocks, fittings). Part I is strictly for radiators, to be used outside of the loop. It is meant to get flux residue and other manufacturing debris out of the radiators so it doesn't contaminate your loop. Part 2 can be used through the entire loop, to get rid of any sediment or debris that may have accumulated in it, like plasticizer from soft tubing, coolant residue, external contaminants, etc.


----------



## Barefooter

m4fox90 said:


> OK So i've picked up Mayhems Blitz 1 & 2 and despite the directions being pretty clear, I'm just confused on one thing...
> 
> *Is it okay to run Part 1 through the system with the pump*? Or do we really need to take out rads from loop and leave them to sit in it?


NO! Part 1 is only for radiators! Part 2 you can run through the whole system no problem.


----------



## skupples

bro, blitz 1 is extremely caustic. I take it you haven't cracked the bottles yet. 

smell = brain says "hmm that'll eat thru stuff, better glove up and water down"


----------



## m4fox90

jvillaveces said:


> It's a very bad idea to run Blitz Part 1 through any plastic parts (blocks, tubing, pump) or any plating (blocks, fittings). Part I is strictly for radiators, to be used outside of the loop. It is meant to get flux residue and other manufacturing debris out of the radiators so it doesn't contaminate your loop. Part 2 can be used through the entire loop, to get rid of any sediment or debris that may have accumulated in it, like plasticizer from soft tubing, coolant residue, external contaminants, etc.





Barefooter said:


> NO! Part 1 is only for radiators! Part 2 you can run through the whole system no problem.


Excellent, thanks for the clarification! I assume it's worth the work and time to run both?


----------



## m4fox90

skupples said:


> bro, blitz 1 is extremely caustic. I take it you haven't cracked the bottles yet.
> 
> smell = brain says "hmm that'll eat thru stuff, better glove up and water down"


Lol no not yet. I don't want to open stuff and start the whole process until I have the time to devote to everything.


----------



## skupples

:thumb:


----------



## jvillaveces

m4fox90 said:


> Excellent, thanks for the clarification! I assume it's worth the work and time to run both?


It ends up being less work and more convenient than dismantling your loop in a few weeks, cleaning out the blocks, etc. Do it right the first time instead of half-assing it now and having a bigger task on your hands later


----------



## m4fox90

jvillaveces said:


> It ends up being less work and more convenient than dismantling your loop in a few weeks, cleaning out the blocks, etc. Do it right the first time instead of half-assing it now and having a bigger task on your hands later


I figured. Clean system is a good Xmas present to me from me!


----------



## Shawnb99

m4fox90 said:


> Lol no not yet. I don't want to open stuff and start the whole process until I have the time to devote to everything.




Don’t forget you can reuse the blitz part 1 multiple times.


----------



## Shawnb99

When using X1 fluid it’s ok if I have left over distilled water in the loop as long as it’s PH 7 or should I try and get all the water out?


----------



## skupples

i doubt it matters much, but for nitpick... do you dilute your fluid first? if so, then just short that a little.

or did you get the jug of premix? if so, just add it. yolo


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> i doubt it matters much, but for nitpick... do you dilute your fluid first? if so, then just short that a little.
> 
> 
> 
> or did you get the jug of premix? if so, just add it. yolo




Thanks kinda figured it should be ok. 
Have about 5 litres left over so figured I’d use it


----------



## Shawnb99

Just added my XI fluid, The smell is making me want to get drunk now.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Smells like Mr. Booze. 




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----------



## hahler2

Will there be a big temperature difference between going with X1 premix vs distilled water with biocide+ and inhibitor+? I was wanting to go the distilled water route as I heard that it has better thermal conductivity than coolant does, but the biocide and inhibitor are out of stock everywhere.


----------



## ciarlatano

hahler2 said:


> Will there be a big temperature difference between going with X1 premix vs distilled water with biocide+ and inhibitor+? I was wanting to go the distilled water route as I heard that it has better thermal conductivity than coolant does, but the biocide and inhibitor are out of stock everywhere.


No. The difference in thermal conductivity would add up to an immeasurable temperature difference in components in this application. Essentially something like your component being something like 25.9999C on water vs 26C on X1.


----------



## hahler2

ciarlatano said:


> No. The difference in thermal conductivity would add up to an immeasurable temperature difference in components in this application. Essentially something like your component being something like 25.9999C on water vs 26C on X1.


Good to know! Thank you


----------



## bern43

Does X1 Clear have a shelf life? I've got some that is around 2 years old, but never opened. Not sure if I can use it. Need to do some maintenance on my loop and would like to avoid a re-order.


----------



## Mordorr

I have almost the same question:

Bought 5 litres X1 Clear. How can i store then properly? Fresh dark place? Or not?
Also, how much time i can use on WC? 1 year?

Thank you?

P.S. - Confirming: Doesn`t stain, correct? Sorry the newbies questions...


----------



## skupples

X1 clear does not stain, and I typically run it for 2 years at a time, but have also left it for 5 years, with little issue. 

storage? cool & dark I'd suppose.

folks have reported it patinas with age, when stored for long periods of time... not sure if this was ever confirmed as a bad batch, or fact.


----------



## Paul17041993

Has the 2016 UV clear blue dye been known to corrode copper radiators when mixed with distilled water?


----------



## skupples

Paul17041993 said:


> Has the 2016 UV clear blue dye been known to corrode copper radiators when mixed with distilled water?


what? no... that would be the opposite of its functionality, and it must be mixed with distilled/de water. 

and in radiators of all places! You'd have to cut one open to be sure of what's going on aside from the fact they show up nasty.


----------



## Mordorr

skupples said:


> X1 clear does not stain, and I typically run it for 2 years at a time, but have also left it for 5 years, with little issue.
> 
> storage? cool & dark I'd suppose.
> 
> folks have reported it patinas with age, when stored for long periods of time... not sure if this was ever confirmed as a bad batch, or fact.



Thank you, again for your patient:thumb:

Maybe i should store it in bottle of glass, that way it won`t interact with plastic....maybe a crazy idea here.

Happy cooling!


----------



## vagrant

I’m going to be trying the v2 Pastel blue next week. Wish me luck.

I have a pretty good drain setup and I’m pretty good about regularly flushing and replacing liquid so I’m hoping I won’t have any major gunking issues. Never used opaque before.


----------



## skupples

Mordorr said:


> Thank you, again for your patient:thumb:
> 
> Maybe i should store it in bottle of glass, that way it won`t interact with plastic....maybe a crazy idea here.
> 
> Happy cooling!


defintely can't go wrong, assuming they're properly sterile, and the lids are brand new/have vacuum seal tips. 

( i try to use plastic as little as possible, for as many things as possible)


----------



## Mordorr

We`re tuned.
At moment i just can remember a bottle of wine or whisky, or something like that, white glass, and one litre.
More easy to clean and disinfect on hot water...

Old bottles of plastic i have, i notice even other products beyond water deteriorate with the plastic...


----------



## crappy

Building a loop for someone, we're going with pastel white initially but if they want to add colour later on, can we just had dye to it? Or do the coloured pastels have different coloured particles in them so won't look as good?


----------



## Mordorr

You can buy X1 clear, and then add later your colour.


----------



## DarthBaggins

crappy said:


> Building a loop for someone, we're going with pastel white initially but if they want to add colour later on, can we just had dye to it? Or do the coloured pastels have different coloured particles in them so won't look as good?


You can add Mayhems dyes to it - I would only recommend using their dyes too as alot of other companies seem to have issues (PrimoChills have issues and have had them for a long time).


----------



## ciarlatano

DarthBaggins said:


> You can add Mayhems dyes to it - I would only recommend using their dyes too as alot of other companies seem to have issues (PrimoChills have issues and have had them for a long time).


You just made me think of VUE. Thanks for the morning chuckle.


----------



## skupples

i wouldn't run pastel in a customer build, personally. colored X1, for sure. I know they say Pastel lasts longer now, but nothing lasts as long as X1. It just works, and keeps working. No suspended particles mixing with plastizer, forming goo monsters.


----------



## DarthBaggins

in the end there is higher maintenance and prep involved in using Pastel's compared to X1 (No opaque coolants). I'll still run them in my own rigs just because I know what all it entails.


----------



## Ovrclck

Any soft tubing recommendations with X1?


----------



## ThrashZone

Ovrclck said:


> Any soft tubing recommendations with X1?


10-16mm fittings 
Great price per foot for mayhems clear tubing on modmymods

https://modmymods.com/mayhems-3-8-5-8-10-16mm-ultra-clear-tubing-muct10-16-30.html


----------



## Ovrclck

ThrashZone said:


> 10-16mm fittings
> Great price per foot for mayhems clear tubing on modmymods
> 
> https://modmymods.com/mayhems-3-8-5-8-10-16mm-ultra-clear-tubing-muct10-16-30.html


Nice! I was looking at this or ZMT at 10/16mm


----------



## Moose-Tech

Ovrclck said:


> Nice! I was looking at this or ZMT at 10/16mm



I recently purchased this: Mayhems 3/8" ID - 5/8" OD (10-16mm) Tubing : UV White by the Meter
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mayhems-3-8-ID-5-8-OD-10-16mm-Tubing-UV-White-1-Metre/401427387182

I wanted UV on the inside of the case and I was not happy with the UV dyes. The Mayhem's seemed to fade after a while.

I bought the Mayhem's UV tubing because the white matched my case, and I got a much better price than what it's going for now.
The UV effect on it is bangin' and evenly distributed (based on lighting).

I also use the ZMT on the external connections, to my external radiator.
My whole rig is set up with soft tubing. I ran pastel through clear tubing for a while but got tired of it and switched to distilled water (w/ Mayhem's Inhibitor+ and Biocide+) and Mayhem's dyes.

The Pastel cleaned right out of my system with Blitz part 2. I flushed it with Part 2 twice though, with thorough rinsing in between.


----------



## ciarlatano

Ovrclck said:


> Nice! I was looking at this or ZMT at 10/16mm


If you want to go with the black long lasting tubing, use Tygon A-60-G (https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=33112&catid=864). It is made to much tighter tolerances than ZMT, and doesn't have issues with compression fittings due to the OD being out of spec like ZMT.


----------



## vagrant

How long would it be considered safe to run just distilled water with no biocides?

My Mayhems got delivered today and I need to run something to test my new pump and gpu but I’m just going to have to drain it again this next week. So I’d rather just not waste any of my liquids.


----------



## skupples

vagrant said:


> How long would it be considered safe to run just distilled water with no biocides?
> 
> My Mayhems got delivered today and I need to run something to test my new pump and gpu but I’m just going to have to drain it again this next week. So I’d rather just not waste any of my liquids.


get Ph strips, test daily, find out. (make sure its a sealed bottle, n check exp date. get @ pool store, if you live somewhere those exist)


----------



## DarthBaggins

^I second the use of a pH Strips or a pH meter to ensure your loop is neutral (a pH of 7 is ideal for Mayhems fluids last I remember).


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Between 7 & 8.


----------



## vagrant

Thanks guys. Managed to get some from my dad who was a water quality specialist for the DNR.


----------



## Ovrclck

ciarlatano said:


> If you want to go with the black long lasting tubing, use Tygon A-60-G (https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=33112&catid=864). It is made to much tighter tolerances than ZMT, and doesn't have issues with compression fittings due to the OD being out of spec like ZMT.


Awesome! Thank you very much! +rep


----------



## Paul17041993

skupples said:


> what? no... that would be the opposite of its functionality, and it must be mixed with distilled/de water.
> 
> and in radiators of all places! You'd have to cut one open to be sure of what's going on aside from the fact they show up nasty.


That's the thing, I used it with distilled and some silver for about a year, cleaned the loop and used EK's blue cryofuel for another year, cleaned and shelved. The nickel fittings that were used in the loop are spotless, the blocks had nickel plating defects though, but no sign of actual corrosion, just various apparent points of plating failure. Pump and res were moderately stained but easily cleaned, the radiator on the other hand had massive chunks of coolant stain around the solder, of which was flushed with water and dish detergent, with the solder joint leaks discovered after being unshelved.

They wanted to blame 'user error' on mixing the two... but with the nickel fittings being completely unaffected... and no adverse reaction found in the old cryofuel... that was basically dismissed almost immediately.

It's an alphacool 420 monsta btw.


----------



## Mordorr

So, in order to stock my precious X1 Clear, i buy 2 of those bottles, of glass:
























The closer is made of some kins rubber. I just pretend put X1 inside, and store quietly until i need it.
My mother talk about on bottle of glass, with diferent closer....have to check.

NOw i need clean and disinfect inside.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Not a bad idea for storing X1, I know I have some XT1 Clear concentrate I have debated on using for another build - whenever I can get a good deal on a chiller :ninja:


----------



## Mordorr

Maybe im paranoid, but even plastic of original bottle with time can interact with XI or whatever liquids.

One is already stored, on dark, for the next years.

It will be my "special reserve" of "wine"


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Mordorr said:


> So, in order to stock my precious X1 Clear, i buy 2 of those bottles, of glass:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The closer is made of some kins rubber. I just pretend put X1 inside, and store quietly until i need it.
> My mother talk about on bottle of glass, with diferent closer....have to check.
> 
> NOw i need clean and disinfect inside.


Maybe this could also work for guys like me living in the EU. 

https://www.ikea.com/at/de/p/korken...|a6:share|a7:ikeaglobal|cc:216&query=30213552

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## ntuason

Moose-Tech said:


> Hey folks,
> 
> I have switched over to solid tubing and distilled water now. However, I have two of these that I will not be using, but I thought some other members might.
> Mayhems Pastel UV White Concentrate - 250ml
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...el-uv-white-concentrate-250ml-mpuvw250ml.html
> 
> It's still in the original packaging that I got it from Newegg..
> It's free to anyone who wants to set up shipping for it.
> PM me and let me know and I will get you a size and weight on the package.
> If you can send me the labels I can send it via USPS, UPS and FED-EX.
> First come first served.
> Thanks.


I’d love this! I’m actually looking for white coolant. You’re somewhere in the USA aren’t you?


----------



## Mordorr

Wuest3nFuchs: 



Its perfect!


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Mordorr said:


> Wuest3nFuchs:
> 
> 
> 
> Its perfect!


Thx mate!

btw does anyone know if there are resellers of mayhems products in middle europe like germany or switzerland ?
i'm specially searchin for x1 v2 clear concentrate and xt1 nuke v2 clear concentrate. 

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## Moose-Tech

ntuason said:


> I’d love this! I’m actually looking for white coolant. You’re somewhere in the USA aren’t you?


Yes I am.


----------



## ntuason

Moose-Tech said:


> Yes I am.


Damnit. Do you know how much it would be to ship to Canada? If your even willing to...


----------



## Moose-Tech

ntuason said:


> Damnit. Do you know how much it would be to ship to Canada? If your even willing to...


I sent you a PM with additional info. 
You arrange the shipping and I send you free Mayhems Pastel.
I just hate to see the stuff go to waste.


----------



## Mordorr

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> Thx mate!
> 
> btw does anyone know if there are resellers of mayhems products in middle europe like germany or switzerland ?
> i'm specially searchin for x1 v2 clear concentrate and xt1 nuke v2 clear concentrate.
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


I did buy my X1 Clear on Amazon, spain, if not wrong....maybe it helps.
The price was much better than buy directly to seller due to transport draconian prices


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Mordorr said:


> I did buy my X1 Clear on Amazon, spain, if not wrong....maybe it helps.
> The price was much better than buy directly to seller due to transport draconian prices


yep shipping with mayhems is so overpriced i mean its unnecessary to put in a one day delivery(DHL express) which cost a few Dollars more than shipping from the usa ,which is more far away than uk. 
Normal shipping would be acceptable for me but hey we all have a donkey of gold at home 

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## war4peace

I'm lucky from this point of view, there is a specialized local store which I order from and they sell me most of the watercooling stuff at prices matching the ones on the makers' websites. The downside is that it sometimes takes a while for the products to arrive, but I am not in a rush, I usually order 3-5L of liquid and order again when stash goes low.


----------



## Shawnb99

Just saw this and I want it! When is this expected to be out?

Mayhems Bubble A-Way

https://www.mayhems.net/collections...hems-bubble-a-way-15ml?variant=31125274820702


----------



## skupples

mayhem's rebranding clear dawn now?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Blitz part 2 does remind me of dawn ultra diluted


----------



## md021383

I recently, well about 10 months ago, did a build, and used distilled water and some Mayhems UV green dye to the loop, maybe added like 20 drops. Did my first fluid change this past weekend, and it left a nice hazey, gunky look in my loop. I have PETG tubing, but thought this stuff was stain free.


----------



## Mordorr

Oh my god!
Does the product have any protection or biocide?


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

got the bottles and i heard you guys like colours...but those are for walls 









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## ThrashZone

Hi,
Looks chilled you put that stuff in a wine cooler


----------



## skupples

dude with green loop -

invest in mayhems blitz kit, read directions, run to a T
invest in X1 or Biocide+ Inhibitor+ bottles
then add dye maybe. 

otherwise, you're hosed.

yes, you're gonna have to take everything apart, and clean everything. part 1 is acid, part 2 is systems prep.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah that don't look like the nonstaining stuff does it 

You'll have fun scrubbing all the parts down not even blitz part 2 will take all that crap off
Blitz part 1 is only for radiators.


----------



## dwolvin

Really I don't think cleanup will be all that bad. Blitz 1 & 2 the rads, scrub the blocks pump, new hose. Shouldn't take more than a day (but it will suck, get a cheap sonic toothbrush).


----------



## war4peace

dwolvin said:


> get a cheap sonic toothbrush.


That's an excellent idea.
I have a Proxxon IBS/E and use a set of felt polishers for cleaning. They work wonders.
For whoever's interested, the suitable Proxxon accesories are 28 297, 28 298 and 28 299.


----------



## crappy

skupples said:


> i wouldn't run pastel in a customer build, personally. colored X1, for sure. I know they say Pastel lasts longer now, but nothing lasts as long as X1. It just works, and keeps working. No suspended particles mixing with plastizer, forming goo monsters.





DarthBaggins said:


> in the end there is higher maintenance and prep involved in using Pastel's compared to X1 (No opaque coolants). I'll still run them in my own rigs just because I know what all it entails.


I've run pastel for years with no problems, you just need to prep your loop properly. I had pastel red for 18months with no problems, drained cleaned and ran pastel white in a system for 3 years from 2015 to 2018 and had no problems, drained cleaned and ran pastel orange for a year and was as bold and bright as when it went in.

Only issue i've ever has was when i tried being a clevver bugger and added aurora concentrate to the orange. Looked cool for about a week then fell out, stuck to the impellers of my pumps and got deep in the nooks of fittings. There are so many warnings about aurora being temporary and not for prolonged use, but we all think we know better. lol The fact that the orange pastel held up so well despite my meddling shows how robust it is.



Wuest3nFuchs said:


> got the bottles and i heard you guys like colours...but those are for walls
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


I hope you're keeping that somewhere dark, you want to keep UV away from it. Maybe wrap it in foil?


----------



## Mordorr

Yep....didnt take photos but i went IKEA and did buy 2 bottles and store 2L of X1 for the next century...ehehehe


----------



## Zfast4y0u

mayhems blitz part 2, does it remove corrosion as well?


----------



## Shawnb99

Mordorr said:


> Yep....didnt take photos but i went IKEA and did buy 2 bottles and store 2L of X1 for the next century...ehehehe




It only has like a 2 year shelf life


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

crappy said:


> I've run pastel for years with no problems, you just need to prep your loop properly. I had pastel red for 18months with no problems, drained cleaned and ran pastel white in a system for 3 years from 2015 to 2018 and had no problems, drained cleaned and ran pastel orange for a year and was as bold and bright as when it went in.
> 
> 
> 
> Only issue i've ever has was when i tried being a clevver bugger and added aurora concentrate to the orange. Looked cool for about a week then fell out, stuck to the impellers of my pumps and got deep in the nooks of fittings. There are so many warnings about aurora being temporary and not for prolonged use, but we all think we know better. lol The fact that the orange pastel held up so well despite my meddling shows how robust it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you're keeping that somewhere dark, you want to keep UV away from it. Maybe wrap it in foil?


stored in dark place, the tinfoil is a good tip also. thx

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## Mordorr

Shawnb99 said:


> It only has like a 2 year shelf life


If i buy 5L, and the producer advice to change every 9/12months, and my syetem uses almost 1L, does it mean my 5 liters only have 2 years warranty?

Also its stored on a dark coo, place.

Don`t care. I will use it has it is.

If it fails, i will came were to cry, even im alone on my own pain...


----------



## skupples

crappy said:


> I've run pastel for years with no problems, you just need to prep your loop properly. I had pastel red for 18months with no problems, drained cleaned and ran pastel white in a system for 3 years from 2015 to 2018 and had no problems, drained cleaned and ran pastel orange for a year and was as bold and bright as when it went in.
> 
> Only issue i've ever has was when i tried being a clevver bugger and added aurora concentrate to the orange. Looked cool for about a week then fell out, stuck to the impellers of my pumps and got deep in the nooks of fittings. There are so many warnings about aurora being temporary and not for prolonged use, but we all think we know better. lol The fact that the orange pastel held up so well despite my meddling shows how robust it is.
> 
> 
> I hope you're keeping that somewhere dark, you want to keep UV away from it. Maybe wrap it in foil?


that's fine and dandy. I still wouldn't put it into a customer build/charge more because i know i'll be getting a complaint eventually.

suppose it depends on the end user.


----------



## bkrownd

Shawnb99 said:


> It only has like a 2 year shelf life



Should stored coolant/additives be refrigerated?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
X1 on the rocks or frozen margaritas :thumb:


----------



## skupples

bkrownd said:


> Should stored coolant/additives be refrigerated?


i doubt it would hurt. just make sure no one mistakes it for cheap booze. some think it smells like bottom shelf.


----------



## crappy

skupples said:


> that's fine and dandy. I still wouldn't put it into a customer build/charge more because i know i'll be getting a complaint eventually.
> 
> suppose it depends on the end user.


It was for my brother, for free, so he can't complain. lol

2020-02-08_05-53-37 by The_Crapman, on Flickr


----------



## Shawnb99

Mordorr said:


> If i buy 5L, and the producer advice to change every 9/12months, and my syetem uses almost 1L, does it mean my 5 liters only have 2 years warranty?
> 
> Also its stored on a dark coo, place.
> 
> Don`t care. I will use it has it is.
> 
> If it fails, i will came were to cry, even im alone on my own pain...


I thought I read that somewhere but I can't find where. I may have mixed it up with EK's crappy fuel. 
If people have used it for up to 5 years in their system it would make sense it should last that long if not not longer sealed. I still have 2L sealed as well going on 2 years now.


----------



## Leonko

Hey Mick. Is Deep Red dye EOL ? I can only see Red dye for sale on website or other resselers. It looked more crystal clear then Red dye.

Deep Red
https://i.imgur.com/FLdwv7E.jpg

Red
https://i.imgur.com/yh8QgsX.jpg


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## Shawnb99

Via the website XI premix Can be stored for up to 2 years (in a cool dry environment @25c).
XT-Nuke up to 5 Year Shelf Life


----------



## Mordorr

Damm.....need make more nasty replacement X1 liquid.........lol


----------



## Barefooter

If anyone here is running the new Mayhems Pastel V2 Pre-Mixed Coolant in the Deep Blue color in their system please post a picture or two.

I want to see how it looks in a completed system :h34r-smi

This is one I'm referring to https://modmymods.com/mayhems-pastel-v2-pre-mixed-coolant-deep-blue-1000ml-mpdb1ltr.html

.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Good morning,

Would you guys buy a reverse osmosis filtration system with deionization(which should be Ultra Pure H2O afterwards) for ~300€ and use/mix it in your Loop together with the biocide+ and inhibitor+ or even x1 ?

I just found such a device that does eliminate all that bad stuff in water. 

http://growmaxwater.com/reverse-osmosis-filters-reduces-ec/15-maxquarium-000-ppm.html

greetings

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## dwolvin

Nah, drugstore distilled is fine (to me).


----------



## iamjanco

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> Good morning,
> 
> Would you guys buy a reverse osmosis filtration system with deionization(which should be Ultra Pure H2O afterwards) for ~300€ and use/mix it in your Loop together with the biocide+ and inhibitor+ or even x1 ?
> 
> I just found such a device that does eliminate all that bad stuff in water.
> 
> http://growmaxwater.com/reverse-osmosis-filters-reduces-ec/15-maxquarium-000-ppm.html
> 
> greetings
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


Depends: I *might* buy a *good* reverse osmosis filtration system if I didn't have ready access to bottled distilled or ionized water. A quality setup can produce very pure water (I used one for a few years producing water for a saltwater coral/fish tank). I said depends because I might also just opt for something like Ultra Pure H2O instead, depending on its availability and/or shipping/total cost to my location. 

As for mixing ro water with Mayhems or anyone else's products, I don't see why you couldn't.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

iamjanco said:


> Depends: I *might* buy a *good* reverse osmosis filtration system if I didn't have ready access to bottled distilled or ionized water. A quality setup can produce very pure water (I used one for a few years producing water for a saltwater coral/fish tank). I said depends because I might also just opt for something like Ultra Pure H2O instead, depending on its availability and/or shipping/total cost to my location.
> 
> 
> 
> As for mixing ro water with Mayhems or anyone else's products, I don't see why you couldn't.


thank you for your contribution on this matter.That helps me alot .
The Ultra Pure H2O wouldnt be only for myself, my brother would need it too cause he also has a watercooled pc and a little aquarium.


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----------



## bkrownd

Shawnb99 said:


> Via the website XI premix Can be stored for up to 2 years (in a cool dry environment @25c).
> XT-Nuke up to 5 Year Shelf Life



Here in the tropics the only "cool dry environment" available is in the fridge, LOL


----------



## iamjanco

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> thank you for your contribution on this matter.That helps me alot .
> The Ultra Pure H2O wouldnt be only for myself, my brother would need it too cause he also has a watercooled pc and a little aquarium.



Again, depends. Can you actually make effective use of the quantity of the RO you could be generating using the €300 setup you mentioned? How many liters is your brother's aquarium? €300 could purchase a large quantity of Pure H2O and then some; even more distilled water, if you went that route if it's available at a reasonable cost to you.

As an example, my RO was always hooked up and running, and I kept a 33 gallon pail (roughly 125 liters) full of RO. Granted, I had a 125 gallon saltwater tank, sump, refuge, etc., and had no trouble going through that amount of water on a regular basis, which more or less made the operation cost effective and did away with the various aspects of procuring such water otherwise; the only real drawback being the need to have a dedicated space and mains source of water to run the RO and store its output.

Weigh the pros and cons against you and your brothers needs, then go from there.


----------



## skupples

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> Good morning,
> 
> Would you guys buy a reverse osmosis filtration system with deionization(which should be Ultra Pure H2O afterwards) for ~300€ and use/mix it in your Loop together with the biocide+ and inhibitor+ or even x1 ?
> 
> I just found such a device that does eliminate all that bad stuff in water.
> 
> http://growmaxwater.com/reverse-osmosis-filters-reduces-ec/15-maxquarium-000-ppm.html
> 
> greetings
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


we have one on the entire house. Had it installed after seeing how well the ones @ work, work.

idk about using it in my PC, but its sure yummy everywhere else.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

iamjanco said:


> Again, depends. Can you actually make effective use of the quantity of the RO you could be generating using the €300 setup you mentioned? How many liters is your brother's aquarium? €300 could purchase a large quantity of Pure H2O and then some; even more distilled water, if you went that route if it's available at a reasonable cost to you.
> 
> 
> 
> As an example, my RO was always hooked up and running, and I kept a 33 gallon pail (roughly 125 liters) full of RO. Granted, I had a 125 gallon saltwater tank, sump, refuge, etc., and had no trouble going through that amount of water on a regular basis, which more or less made the operation cost effective and did away with the various aspects of procuring such water otherwise; the only real drawback being the need to have a dedicated space and mains source of water to run the RO and store its output.
> 
> 
> 
> Weigh the pros and cons against you and your brothers needs, then go from there.


he has a 250ltr aquarium and he hates that distilled plastic bottles ,me too.
So i think we go that route. 



skupples said:


> we have one on the entire house. Had it installed after seeing how well the ones @ work, work.
> 
> 
> 
> idk about using it in my PC, but its sure yummy everywhere else.


I'll let you guys know when i have it,and tried it in my Loop.
But i'll guess that takes a bit of time to own this device, cause i cant find a seller in my country(yet).



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----------



## diggiddi

is this normal for coolant to look like this after a year, using mayhems xt-1 old formula?
Also is it ok to flush with hot water, then distilled then run distilled + vinegar before final flushing with distilled, plus cleaning plate with vinegar and distilled water


----------



## skupples

do you have a less opaque object and a more steady hand? 

coolant picks up stuff over a year even if the system was stupid tier cleaned first.


----------



## iamjanco

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> he has a 250ltr aquarium and he hates that distilled plastic bottles ,me too.
> So i think we go that route.
> 
> I'll let you guys know when i have it,and tried it in my Loop.
> But i'll guess that takes a bit of time to own this device, cause i cant find a seller in my country(yet).


That's the way you should go then. Though the *RO/DI *water should be fine in your PC (and your brother's aquarium) if you manage it properly, you might also want to get a TDS meter of some sort to make sure that what you'll be using is being processed properly. You'll likely want to get an RO setup that includes DI filtering as well. 

In any event, your brother may already have what you need to test the water you process if he's been checking the water he uses in his aquarium himself. Even the best filtration systems will need occasional testing as the filters used in them eventually will need to be changed:

*Using Reverse Osmosis Water in Saltwater Aquariums*

Full Google search: *testing RO DI water used in saltwater aquariums*


----------



## diggiddi

skupples said:


> do you have a less opaque object and a more steady hand?
> 
> coolant picks up stuff over a year even if the system was stupid tier cleaned first.


It looks like copper sulfate solution from rads and block, not sure I understood your statement though


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

iamjanco said:


> That's the way you should go then. Though the *RO/DI *water should be fine in your PC (and your brother's aquarium) if you manage it properly, you might also want to get a TDS meter of some sort to make sure that what you'll be using is being processed properly. You'll likely want to get an RO setup that includes DI filtering as well.
> 
> 
> 
> In any event, your brother may already have what you need to test the water you process if he's been checking the water he uses in his aquarium himself. Even the best filtration systems will need occasional testing as the filters used in them eventually will need to be changed:
> 
> 
> 
> *Using Reverse Osmosis Water in Saltwater Aquariums*
> 
> 
> 
> Full Google search: *testing RO DI water used in saltwater aquariums*


Nice read, thanks alot!
A tds meter measures ppm/ec? 
If it's that we have such a device. 

if i couldnt find a seller for this growmax ro/di whatelse can i and my brother use from a different maker?

Also thanks for the links [emoji106][emoji106]

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----------



## iamjanco

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> Nice read, thanks alot!
> A tds meter measures ppm/ec?
> If it's that we have such a device.
> 
> if i couldnt find a seller for this growmax ro/di whatelse can i and my brother use from a different maker?
> 
> Also thanks for the links [emoji106][emoji106]
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


You're welcome 

I've been out of the reef hobby for years, so I couldn't really give you sound recommendations about the different brands available today, especially in your part of the world. But if your brother is a member of a relatively local reef club, you or he might start by inquiring there. If you're near enough to Innsbrook, there might be a club there.

You might also try inquiring at public aquariums in Innsbruck for recommendations, perhaps check with the staff there. It looks like there might also be a an aquarium specialist shop or two in the Innsbrook area where you might try your inquiries; though I'd think other hobbyists in your area would be the best bet for recommendations. 

You're also not extremely far from larger cities like München, where answers might be found easier. In any event, good luck, and let us know what you eventually come up with


----------



## skupples

oy vey.

I spent a year taking care of my dad's failed attempt at a home reef.

my take away is this - if you don't wanna setup a proper quarantine tank rotation, stick to just coral. otherwise, you'll be fighting disease forever. there's no such thing as a disease free fish from the local fish store. at least, not at the tier of local store we were shopping at.

growing coral is definitely on my list of things to do again. coral & crustaceans. I'm good on the salt fish bit, at least until I have a large enough place to setup all the extra tanks needed to keep everyone happy & healthy.


----------



## iamjanco

I enjoyed it myself; though like a lot of hobbies, it can be a money pit.

Crustaceans, eh? If you want to go fishless, you might try one of these. Heck, sometimes they even come free in the live rock you get:






Otoh, if you don't want to go fishless and end up with one or more of those in the live rock you get, sooner or later you might be fishless


----------



## skupples

always gotta have a clean up crew, though not one so savage that it eata EVERYTHING else in the tank 


and yes, most definitely one of the more expensive "adult hobbies" though, at least in Florida, there's no shortage of used tanks on the low low.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

thank you guys for the little inside of aquariumstuff. Also the video is very interesting.looking forward thx

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----------



## Moose-Tech

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> Good morning,
> 
> Would you guys buy a reverse osmosis filtration system with deionization(which should be Ultra Pure H2O afterwards) for ~300€ and use/mix it in your Loop together with the biocide+ and inhibitor+ or even x1 ?
> 
> I just found such a device that does eliminate all that bad stuff in water.
> 
> http://growmaxwater.com/reverse-osmosis-filters-reduces-ec/15-maxquarium-000-ppm.html
> 
> greetings
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


I buy distilled 4 gallons at a time at $1.08 (USD) each which is enough to flush and refill my loop. 
I couldn't justify the cost, unless I had difficulty getting true distilled water and had to travel and hour in either direction.


----------



## hahler2

So my first time using distilled water in a loop. Had always used coolants before. I filled with distilled, and then added a few drops of Inhibitor+ and Biocide+ to the res. Ran the loop for a couple of days and then used my pH kit to test it. Long as I'm reading it correctly, I believe I've got my pH at almost exactly 7. do I need to just automatically add a few drops of Inhibitor and Biocide every few months, or should I test my water first, and only add more drops when the pH starts to get off?


----------



## skupples

bottle says to add a few drops every so often. always good to aim for 7, ofc. it's the only metric of stability we really have. no one's taken the time to figure any others out


----------



## hahler2

Thank you


----------



## Zfast4y0u

just ordered mayhems x1 clear, but not from them directly cause of insane shipping prices. got one question about x1 clear. im not sure how am i supposed to mix this thing correctly with distilled water. according to their instructions i should do this: For "Normal Ambient Cooling" - Mix 125 ml of coolant with 850 ml of water. (makes 2 Ltrs in total).

https://www.mayhems.net/products/x1-clear-250ml?_pos=2&_sid=a903bc7be&_ss=r

so i guess, its 125ml of x1 + 850ml of water = 1l of coolant. where i ordered it, it say mix 250ml of x1 + 750ml of water for 1l of coolant, so which one is it? xD


----------



## Shawnb99

Zfast4y0u said:


> just ordered mayhems x1 clear, but not from them directly cause of insane shipping prices. got one question about x1 clear. im not sure how am i supposed to mix this thing correctly with distilled water. according to their instructions i should do this: For "Normal Ambient Cooling" - Mix 125 ml of coolant with 850 ml of water. (makes 2 Ltrs in total).
> 
> https://www.mayhems.net/products/x1-clear-250ml?_pos=2&_sid=a903bc7be&_ss=r
> 
> so i guess, its 125ml of x1 + 850ml of water = 1l of coolant. where i ordered it, it say mix 250ml of x1 + 750ml of water for 1l of coolant, so which one is it? xD


It means Mix 125 ml of coolant with 850 ml of water for 1l of coolant, yes I'm aware that's only 975ml but I guess 25ml doesn't mattet. The whole bottle makes enough for 2l. If you need more then that you need more bottles. If less then use math to figure out the smaller amounts, IE 75ml and 425 of water for 1/2l of coolant and so on.

The other measurement is if you're going sub-ambient water temps.


----------



## Mordorr

Wait....wait.....

I did buy 5L of X1 Clear....and didn`t mix with nothing...
You guys are telling that it must be mixed with water???

P.S Never mind.....you guys talk about concentrated....


----------



## M3TAl

Any projected date for the new Pastel XTR to hit retail in the states? Putting together new Ryzen build but might try to wait until Pastel XTR is out because once the loop is done I'm not draining and cleaning just to swap fluids. I really am that lazy haha. Watercooling a desk is actually kind of a pain and maintenance stinks too. Prefer to get it right the first time then let it be for a long time.


----------



## skupples

Mordorr said:


> Wait....wait.....
> 
> I did buy 5L of X1 Clear....and didn`t mix with nothing...
> You guys are telling that it must be mixed with water???
> 
> P.S Never mind.....you guys talk about concentrated....


almost positive the 5L is a pre-mix. it would say as such on the bottle.
concentrate, or premix...


----------



## Mordorr

Premix....lot of them to have fun!


----------



## skupples

if you wanna pinch all the pennies, I use the droppers until I know i'm gonna be keeping her full for awhile, then fill with X1. (i'm too lazy to capture & filter existing coolant)


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

i thought you guys may like the filters (the plexifilter is from aquatuning,the other one from a motorbike)i built in my Loop. The handpump (cars) does also magic in terms of emptying it.
From 30-45 min to 5-10min by nesrly 2.25ltr x1 clear Fluid. 


Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## Astral85

Mayhem said:


> 4) mix ratio of XT-1 Nuke is 1 to 9, so 100ml of XT-1 Nuke to 900ml of pure water. If you whish to go sub zero increase the ammount of XT-1 Nuke varying from 10% up to a maximum of 60%.


Hi, so for normal ambient cooling 1-9 is the correct ratio? I am kind of confused because the chart on the bottle of XT-1 Nuke I have only mentions the sub zero % ratios...


----------



## skupples

1to9, add more for subzero.


----------



## Mordorr

After about 2/3 months using X1 clear pré-mixed, my D5 Heatkiller reservator , were before, the nickel was shining, now looks
weird, no more shining, like foggy and more like aluminium (sorry English is not my native language).

Should i be worry?

Before, i did use car product + distillate water and apart plasticising, no problems.


----------



## skupples

you'd need to drain, clean, inspect for damage. 

how much X1 did you use, and how did you clean your radiators before filling for good?


----------



## Astral85

skupples said:


> 1to9, add more for subzero.


Thanks but where is it stated for standard cooling the ratio is 1-9? Can you explain the mixing ratios? When it says 10% does that mean 10% of a 250ml bottle??

https://www.mayhems.net/collections/xt-1-nuke/products/mayhems-xt-1-nuke-v2-clear-concentrate-250ml


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Seems pretty clear


> 250ml of Mayhems XT-1 Nuke will make 2500ml or 2.5 Ltrs of coolant (1/10 mix ratio).


----------



## skupples

i poor out enough room in a gallon to poor in a bottle. close enough i think. pretty sure I mathed that out long ago.


----------



## Astral85

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Seems pretty clear


Whoops missed that, was more focused on the mixing ratios further down the page. What is another 10% on top 100ml if you were to add more for sub zero?


----------



## skupples

maybe i'm still asleep.

10% of 100 = 10? 

are you going sub zero? if not, you may affect your water's cooling potential by using too much NUKE


----------



## Mordorr

skupples said:


> you'd need to drain, clean, inspect for damage.
> 
> how much X1 did you use, and how did you clean your radiators before filling for good?



I clean with many liters of destillated water.

How much X1 did i use? All.

Its already pré-mixed (from 5L bottle).


----------



## skupples

=\ shaking room temp distilled doesn't always do the job.

blitz kits ftw.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Blitz is preferred for sure, but even Mayhem has mentioned alternatives to it before. I do agree though, just trusting room temperature distilled water to do it for you is a bit to naive. Boiling distilled water is better and will at the very least remove the flux and most of the debris from the radiator. To remove any paint residue and corrosion you will have to use stronger chemicals.

It's not going to be as good as Blitz, but you could try it the way Mayhem shows it @17min in this video:


----------



## Mordorr

Nice.
But one year using car liquid didnt`t do that to my Heatkiiler D5 suport....


Not impressed.


----------



## skupples

A.) should've stuck with what was working
B.) who knows what weird stuff is going on now in the loop if you had auto coolant going before, & didn't clean properly. 
you need to do a genuine flush. not just fill & drain.


----------



## Mordorr

ok, ok.
I get the message. But i did remove all coolant....quiete sure about it.

Have to turn off the dam pc, dismantle everything.....arghh.....

Any chance to recovery the niquel mirror effect?

Thanks for the video few posts above...learn a lot!


----------



## skupples

you should be able to rub off whatever that is.

do not use any compounds or solvents on the nickel itself. 

radiators are traps. they're the main thing you wanna acid bath, then basic bath.


----------



## Rainmaker91

skupples said:


> you should be able to rub off whatever that is.
> 
> do not use any compounds or solvents on the nickel itself.
> 
> radiators are traps. they're the main thing you wanna acid bath, then basic bath.


Should be fine just running massive amounts of water through it to. I have for example just straight up hooked my radiator to the sink and let it run for an hour, flusehed out the acid/base quite well. Though you should obviously do a PH check afterwards and then rinse out with a less agressive cleaner (Like Sysprep, Blitz part2 or any otehr prep fluid really).


----------



## Mordorr

I know....i did it many years ago....

Im also from old school.....whiskey, cola, wash solvents....all that stuff...eheheh

Gonna try vinagar + Soda and also sink, before.


----------



## skupples

I had to lol.

really though.. yeah, I have a rigged up hose in my kit for this purpose. I then turned a sump pump, water filter, & home depot bucket into a filter station so I could use distilled, & not be wasteful. also, the sump pump eventually super heats the water


----------



## Rainmaker91

skupples said:


> I had to lol.
> 
> really though.. yeah, I have a rigged up hose in my kit for this purpose. I then turned a sump pump, water filter, & home depot bucket into a filter station so I could use distilled, & not be wasteful. also, the sump pump eventually super heats the water


Well to be fair; I live in a city where it rains about 250-300 days a year, we also don't use the city provided water but rather we drilled about 100m down in the mountain and get it from there. In essence the only wasteful thing here is really the miniscule amount of power that the pump and filter system uses, but then again in Norway we are self sufficient on power from hydro electric dams so that isn't really such an issue either.

Doing what I do in for example California though... Yeah that would be quite wasteful, but it's not exactly like I could send the water that I save here to somewhere that needs it more either.

Good one though. :specool:


----------



## skupples

oh, that's cool! 

yeah, well... California is typically the best example for the worst way to handle things from a governance and infrastructure level. 

tampa's working on finally stopping ALL bay waste water dumping. Seems crazy right? one of the best fishing spots in America, & you don't even know how many plants/factories/facilities pump in waste water from miles n miles away.


----------



## Mordorr

Well after maybe 3 month with X2 clear and new tygan tubes, today i decide to clean, disinfect, clean, flush...whatever the circuit.

My system is Alfacool and black Ice extreme radiator.

Again, still plasticize, but what's more strange is that the new transparent Tygan tubes and the liquid, became pink.


Thats right, Pink.

Is this normal?

Also, the dam plasticize continues infectin the system...i need dismantle all thing and nuke with products...arghh..


----------



## skupples

is it clear tubing?

here's the deal.

tube is actually a sponge. so clear tubing is basically a fools errand as its only a matter of time before SOMETHING gets absorbed from one side or the other.


----------



## Mordorr

Yes its clear, but slight pink...i start think i have (again) to choose that black tube industrial and period...

I connect my PC to the sink kitchen....about 10 minutes...one side tube....another...hot water...cool water..

Then flush vinegar for +- 15 minutes (my wife want to cook, and warm something about divorce),.

Flush again with water from kitchen...specially hot another good 10 minutes at high pressure.

Then, 3 doses of distillate water, with progressively more X2...

Finally X2 only.

Even so, i notice with my lantern, small particles like fog, fluctuating on the Heatkiller D5 reservator....even at naked eye looks crystal clear...

But the pink colour before...weird...

Thanks!


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> is it clear tubing?
> 
> here's the deal.
> 
> tube is actually a sponge. so clear tubing is basically a fools errand as its only a matter of time before SOMETHING gets absorbed from one side or the other.


Hi,
Kind of why I'm giving this modmymods pvc clear soft tubing a try and their clear premix too 
Leaving hardware labs rad in too so if it turns green quickly like x1 clear did on my x99 and or clouds the pvc tubing I'll just go from there.

But as said same x99 system that x1 clear went badly now has same setup just different soft tube and different premix.
If all goes well I'll just kiss x1 clear good bye which is in my x299 system and switch to mods clear premix cheaper 10.00 per liter local US tubing too


----------



## Astral85

If you guys are throwing different fluids in on top of X1 that's been in the system that may be your problem with weird things happening. Mayhems has told me X1 leaves an oil that needs a strong detergent like their Blitz kit to fully clean the oils from rads.


----------



## Mordorr

I can have things.....but oil is not one of them....

Today at lunch i inspect everything, for leaks. Even the "fog" i refer before disappear, so i presume it was microbubbles...

I know perfectly well i do not have the most clean setup, with high standards, but i must say im not very impressed with this X1 Clear.

Pink?
W.T.F??


----------



## Shawnb99

Astral85 said:


> If you guys are throwing different fluids in on top of X1 that's been in the system that may be your problem with weird things happening. Mayhems has told me X1 leaves an oil that needs a strong detergent like their Blitz kit to fully clean the oils from rads.



Part 1 and 2 or just 2?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Mordorr said:


> I can have things.....but oil is not one of them....
> 
> Today at lunch i inspect everything, for leaks. Even the "fog" i refer before disappear, so i presume it was microbubbles...
> 
> I know perfectly well i do not have the most clean setup, with high standards, but i must say im not very impressed with this X1 Clear.
> 
> Pink?
> W.T.F??


As the plasticiser gets removed from the clear tubing it will show more and more of the tint that the plastic tubing actually has, if it's PVC tubing that will be green and I am sure other materials have their own tint as well. There is no material in existence that is truly clear, everything has a small tint of some colour so just be aware of that. Now as to what tubing to use... The worst examples I have seen of plasticizer is from Primochill Advanced LRT, which was a really popular choice back when clear tubing was the go to choice for water coolers. I think the best tubing I have used so far is the one made by mayhems, and some PVC tubing without a name that I sourced locally (it's a b***h to work with though, but nearly no plasticizer).

As for cleaning a loop before and after use, I struggle to find anything that is as good as the Mayhems Blitz kit. So before reassembling your loop, do a proper cleaning of your radiators with blitz part 1, and then a full loop clean with part 2 before going to whatever coolant you want to use in your loop permanently.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Oil does explain why it's clouding soft tubing 
No other wild theories needed it's the freaking oil in x1 

Guess this oil is also clashing with hardware labs radiators too turning fluid green.

Mayhems well it's an accurate name for what it causes.
Thought ek fluid was bad.


----------



## Rainmaker91

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Oil does explain why it's clouding soft tubing
> No other wild theories needed it's the freaking oil in x1
> 
> Guess this oil is also clashing with hardware labs radiators too turning fluid green.
> 
> Mayhems well it's an accurate name for what it causes.
> Thought ek fluid was bad.


The thing is that there is never only 1 cause for something, and blaming it all on the coolant is counter productive. Does it contribute to the whole? ofcourse it does, but you also need to consider all the other factors at play to.

I could have easily blamed my issues with corrosion in my last loop on the coolant (PTnuke and DI water), but the reality was that there are always multiple things working against you at the same time. In my case it was an issue of the alloy in some of the fittings, the EKWB nickel issue and the coolant. So don't just blame 1 thing, if you do then you will get the same issue again at some point.


----------



## skupples

maybe that's why he's working on a new unified coolant that'll be the base of everything.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I haven't used clear soft tubing in years due to the issues it can cause, for soft I only use EK ZMT - nothing but praises for this tubing. Only clear tubing I'll use is primarily hardline based tubing, and even then I check multiple times for fluid compatibility.


----------



## Mordorr

What it is, is done.

Question:

Can i dilute a little of distillate water to X1?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
You can feel the oil if you just put a little on your fingers and rub together so of course it's the fluid 
How bad the clouding gets is all that is unknown not if it clouds that is 100% for sure going to happen.
Same deal for it turning green only 50-50% there just from my two rigs one green one not same HW labs rads cleaned the same way blitz 1 & 2 mayhems tubing.

All this should be on the sells pages people do not like surprises unless it's box full of money 

I know what mayhems will probably say same thing he said about mixture of biocide+.. WE THE USER HAVE TO DO OUR DUE DILIGENCE RESEARCH lol right not the freaking manufacture being open about KNOWN ISSUES.

They are not a new company thus the response Astral85 got after the fact although his issue was a little different confirms x1 has in it = oil.

How clean the system is irrelevant x1 fluids oil will cloud clear soft tubing period.


----------



## skupples

Mordorr said:


> What it is, is done.
> 
> Question:
> 
> Can i dilute a little of distillate water to X1?


x1 comes as a concentrate, or pre-diluted.

i'd assume that "oil" is the surfactant.


----------



## Mordorr

skupples said:


> x1 comes as a concentrate, or pre-diluted.
> 
> i'd assume that "oil" is the surfactant.




5L, i presume, pre-diluted.

Can i add even so water? My system uses +- 1L...


----------



## skupples

sure.


----------



## Astral85

skupples said:


> x1 comes as a concentrate, or pre-diluted.
> 
> i'd assume that "oil" is the surfactant.


The vegetable extract glycol in X1 is oil based. XT1 is ethylene glycol based. Mayhems have said the oil in the X1 is difficult to remove (especially from the rads) with distilled water alone and recommends the Blitz kit (part 2) to properly remove it. I'm just thinking that if anyone here has put a new fluid into their system after using X1 and not properly cleaned the oils out they might be facing the same reaction of fluids as I have. 

I have only ever used X1 in my system, I originally only shake cleaned my rads with distilled water and didn't use Blitz part 1 but even still I have never seen any build up or any strange colors in my parts from X1, in fact my fittings are squeaky clean.


----------



## Mayhem

Oil ?????? In X1 ??????

Since when have you been told this !!!!! And by whom, can i see the evidence, please ...

There is no oil in it. (so either someone messed up in support hence I need to see the email / Support ticket info).

Its made from vegetable extract not oil, its quite different lol. Its very close to glycol or even in some cases is a type of glycol "Not oil".


----------



## Astral85

Mayhem said:


> Oil ?????? In X1 ??????
> 
> Since when have you been told this !!!!! And by whom, can i see the evidence, please ...
> 
> There is no oil in it. (so either someone messed up in support hence I need to see the email / Support ticket info).
> 
> Its made from vegetable extract not oil, its quite different lol. Its very close to glycol or even in some cases is a type of glycol "Not oil".


Yes one of your support staff told me Mayhems X1 is "glycol oil based". They also said Mayhems X1 and XT1 Nuke should never be mixed together. I'll PM you more details. Perhaps you could tell me then what has happened to my EK duraclear tubing. I have only ever used X1 in my loop. I recently replaced my Primochill LRT tubing with EK Duraclear. Not knowing that X1 and XT1 "should never be mixed" I decided to use the XT1 Nuke I had. I will be honest that I did not flush the loop very thoroughly before using the XT1 Nuke. Anyway this is the result after just one week (pic below). A stubborn white coating on the inner tube walls. I would like to avoid this happening again at all costs after I have replaced the tubes...


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Slippery to the touch might as well be oil because it does indeed cloud soft tubing even your own.


----------



## BugFreak

> I recently replaced my Primochill LRT tubing with EK Duraclear


Going by the history of ek products I would say that is your problem. That's just my opinion and I expect any ek product to fail.


----------



## Astral85

BugFreak said:


> Going by the history of ek products I would say that is your problem. That's just my opinion and I expect any ek product to fail.



Well I have an off cut piece of the EK Duraclear tube filled with coolant and it's been clear for days. It just won't turn the thick cloudy white (like in the pic above) so I'm not closer to understanding what's happened...


----------



## Astral85

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Slippery to the touch might as well be oil because it does indeed cloud soft tubing even your own.


Any idea why the off cut tube I filled with coolant is not turning this cloudy white? It's been clear for days...


----------



## Rainmaker91

Astral85 said:


> Mayhem said:
> 
> 
> 
> Oil ?????? In X1 ??????
> 
> Since when have you been told this !!!!! And by whom, can i see the evidence, please ...
> 
> There is no oil in it. (so either someone messed up in support hence I need to see the email / Support ticket info).
> 
> Its made from vegetable extract not oil, its quite different lol. Its very close to glycol or even in some cases is a type of glycol "Not oil".
> 
> 
> 
> Yes one of your support staff told me Mayhems X1 is "glycol oil based". They also said Mayhems X1 and XT1 Nuke should never be mixed together. I'll PM you more details. Perhaps you could tell me then what has happened to my EK duraclear tubing. I have only ever used X1 in my loop. I recently replaced my Primochill LRT tubing with EK Duraclear. Not knowing that X1 and XT1 "should never be mixed" I decided to use the XT1 Nuke I had. I will be honest that I did not flush the loop very thoroughly before using the XT1 Nuke. Anyway this is the result after just one week (pic below). A stubborn white coating on the inner tube walls. I would like to avoid this happening again at all costs after I have replaced the tubes...
Click to expand...

That is just as likely to be residue left by the LRT tubing as to be the coolant. In fact it looks exactly like every single piece of LRT tubing I have seen used for even remotely long period of time. Not saying it has to be that, but given all the variables that you have here (tubing, not cleaning out old fluid, mixing fluids... Etc) it would be best not to draw any conclusion on any of them until you are able to test them in a closed environment. For what I know it could very well be the coolant, but again I see some similarities between that photo and every LRT photo ever.


----------



## ThrashZone

Astral85 said:


> Any idea why the off cut tube I filled with coolant is not turning this cloudy white? It's been clear for days...


Hi,
Need to heat it up do some benchmarks.
Usually takes a week or two to cloud but will eventually.

Only thing that does not cloud is distilled water and inhibitor+ & biocide+ that goes for any clear tubing even mayhems.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Someone posted this took a little while to find the post 

https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/205160252-What-is-plasticizer-


----------



## Mordorr

Im more original: pink.


----------



## Mayhem

Astral85 said:


> Yes one of your support staff told me Mayhems X1 is "glycol oil based". They also said Mayhems X1 and XT1 Nuke should never be mixed together. I'll PM you more details. Perhaps you could tell me then what has happened to my EK duraclear tubing. I have only ever used X1 in my loop. I recently replaced my Primochill LRT tubing with EK Duraclear. Not knowing that X1 and XT1 "should never be mixed" I decided to use the XT1 Nuke I had. I will be honest that I did not flush the loop very thoroughly before using the XT1 Nuke. Anyway this is the result after just one week (pic below). A stubborn white coating on the inner tube walls. I would like to avoid this happening again at all costs after I have replaced the tubes...


Hmm ill have a word with Ian, He's taken over my support as I simply not had time to do it, I've got all staff locked up in their homes and I'm the only one working so haven't had time to do support. But no X1 is not oil-based.

Ref EKWB, no offence to EK but there tubing is lets say not as good as ours (cheaper made and more expensive retail). Our tubing is cheap, works and does what it supposed to. However, i consider it a throwable item hence why its cheap.


----------



## Astral85

Mayhem said:


> Hmm ill have a word with Ian, He's taken over my support as I simply not had time to do it, I've got all staff locked up in their homes and I'm the only one working so haven't had time to do support. But no X1 is not oil-based.
> 
> Ref EKWB, no offence to EK but there tubing is lets say not as good as ours (cheaper made and more expensive retail). Our tubing is cheap, works and does what it supposed to. However, i consider it a throwable item hence why its cheap.


Thanks. I would love to use Mayhems tubing but I need to get things up and running and the EK Duraclear is just what I have right now. Following Ian's advice I'll be running Blitz pt 2 through the loop. Will the system be sufficiently cleaned with the Blitz to not have this issue with the EK Duraclear again?


----------



## Mayhem

No .. Dura clear is rubbish, its that simple. If you check around and read forums you'll see lots and lots of people with the same issue. Do not use dura clear anything but. Tubing is not expensive ...


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Depends where you buy mayhems soft tubing 
Modmymods had good deal on it per foot at 0.59 cents which they are sold out
Other places are far more expensive nearly 20.us for a 10 foot box amazon... gougers 

So USA it's best to just get modmymods flexible pvc at just under 1.us per foot and be done with it with 20 foot same cost as amazon gougers price but twice as much product.


----------



## Astral85

Mayhem said:


> No .. Dura clear is rubbish, its that simple. If you check around and read forums you'll see lots and lots of people with the same issue. Do not use dura clear anything but. Tubing is not expensive ...


It's all that's available for watercooling tube in NZ right now so I have no choice if I want to get this thing rebuilt. I can order another tube from overseas later. 

I don't really believe the Duraclear tubing itself is can be responsible for all of this mess. Are you sure improper rinsing of previous coolants/tube residues has not played a part?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
NZ what is that new zealand ?


----------



## Astral85

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> NZ what is that new zealand ?


Yes.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
You should fill in your region on forums makes it easier to suggest or not to suggest companies lol


----------



## Astral85

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You should fill in your region on forums makes it easier to suggest or not to suggest companies lol


Your right, missed that. Sorry.


----------



## ThrashZone

Astral85 said:


> Your right, missed that. Sorry.


Hi,
Everything is over seas ordering for you isn't it


----------



## Mayhem

What size tubing do you use ?


----------



## ThrashZone

10-16mm or 3/8-5/8" from memory.


----------



## Astral85

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Everything is over seas ordering for you isn't it


For water cooling we don't have a lot of options so yes and no. One store does all the EK stuff because they're popular. They have Primo LRT but only in white and green :/ There's some Bitspower, Thermaltake. There is just one guy here who sells Mayhems coolants and used to sell old skool stuff like Alphacool. I've brought a lot of his Mayhems clear stock. He also has quite a bit of XSPC stuff. But yeah the retailers here forget we need tube too. :/


----------



## Astral85

Mayhem said:


> What size tubing do you use ?


Yes 10/16mm. Since this loop was built I've only used black Primochill LRT 10/16mm with Mayhems X1 clear. No other coolants have been used in this loop until I swapped the LRT out for the Duraclear 10/16 recently and decided to use the Mayhems XT1 Nuke I had brought. I did not rinse the new tubing and loop and proceeded straight to adding the XT1 Nuke. Almost immediately the tubes looked dirty and would not clear up. After 1 week there is a white powder on the tube walls, inside fittings and the reservoir glass. I've starting taking it apart and as per Ian's advice will run Blitz through the rads/system when I have replaced the tubing....


----------



## raggazam

I recently purchased the Mayhems Blitz kit with the 2 components.
My question is if part 2 does not cause deterioration in my ek petg tubes and oring


----------



## Shawnb99

raggazam said:


> I recently purchased the Mayhems Blitz kit with the 2 components.
> My question is if part 2 does not cause deterioration in my ek petg tubes and oring



It shouldn’t


----------



## Rainmaker91

Astral85 said:


> For water cooling we don't have a lot of options so yes and no. One store does all the EK stuff because they're popular. They have Primo LRT but only in white and green :/ There's some Bitspower, Thermaltake. There is just one guy here who sells Mayhems coolants and used to sell old skool stuff like Alphacool. I've brought a lot of his Mayhems clear stock. He also has quite a bit of XSPC stuff. But yeah the retailers here forget we need tube too. :/


You might want to take a look at local hardware stores, plumbing stores and car part stores. While it won't be the same as mayhems tubing, I have had more success with non brand PVC tubing than I have had with both Duraclear and Advanced LRT. There is also fuel lines which essentially is the same stuff as EKWB ZMT and Tygon Norprene. You might also be able to import stuff from Australia (If I remember correctly Singularity Computers is based there, among others), though I must confess that I don't know how the restrictions are when importing stuff across the Tasmanian Sea.


----------



## skupples

raggazam said:


> I recently purchased the Mayhems Blitz kit with the 2 components.
> My question is if part 2 does not cause deterioration in my ek petg tubes and oring


PETG degrades enough on its own as is


----------



## broodro0ster

raggazam said:


> I recently purchased the Mayhems Blitz kit with the 2 components.
> My question is if part 2 does not cause deterioration in my ek petg tubes and oring


Nope. I have EK PETG, Bitspower PETG and Barrow PETG in my loop and they are still good after 1.5 years of the initial Blitz part 2 flush


----------



## Shawnb99

raggazam said:


> I recently purchased the Mayhems Blitz kit with the 2 components.
> My question is if part 2 does not cause deterioration in my ek petg tubes and oring


Part 2 is designed to be used when your loop is assembled so it shouldn't have any inverse effect on anything, Even crappy EK products


----------



## ciarlatano

Shawnb99 said:


> Part 2 is designed to be used when your loop is assembled so it shouldn't have any inverse effect on anything, Even crappy EK products


I don't know about that......_everything_ seems to cause an adverse reaction on EK products. Even other EK products. Then. EK blames you for using the other product and voids your warranty.


----------



## Rainmaker91

ciarlatano said:


> I don't know about that......_everything_ seems to cause an adverse reaction on EK products. Even other EK products. Then. EK blames you for using the other product and voids your warranty.


It depends a lot on which one of their products you look at, and even then there are massive variances within single product stacks to (Meaning one Supremacy block might be fine, but the next one might be junk). So EK products are a mixed bag to say the least, they do have a lot of different options for stuff though and it's not always easy to find alternatives to their blocks.


----------



## skupples

ek voids warranty over kill coils. they've openly stated on reddit & here that mayhems coolant is not a warranty voider.


----------



## Rainmaker91

skupples said:


> ek voids warranty over kill coils. they've openly stated on reddit & here that mayhems coolant is not a warranty voider.


And rightly so, combining silver and nickel is a bad idea (as in nearly as bad as combining copper and aluminium). Kill coil/silver and copper is perfectly fine though.


----------



## skupples

and yet people still get all sorts of butt hurt when this is pointed out, WITH sources that explain why. 

would <3 if I hadn't lost my old chrome bookmarks stash.


----------



## CrazyDiamond

I’m sure this has been answered here before, but navigating on my phone is terrible.

How much Inhibitor+ and Biocide+ to use in a system?

My system holds ~1.25L. I see they recommend 0.5ml per L (0.05%) but the bottles come in dropper style with no measurement for drop size. The biocide+ did say 1drop per 1.5L on the bottle, but there’s no way you’re getting a 0.75ml drop out of that. So what gives? Besides inserting a needle style syringe, how do I dose this? What’s the approximate drop measurement from the bottle?

Based on other similar sized eye droppers I have, I would assume 0.75ml is like 10 drops. But that doesn’t line up with what I would expect.


----------



## skupples

CrazyDiamond said:


> I’m sure this has been answered here before, but navigating on my phone is terrible.
> 
> How much Inhibitor+ and Biocide+ to use in a system?
> 
> My system holds ~1.25L. I see they recommend 0.5ml per L (0.05%) but the bottles come in dropper style with no measurement for drop size. The biocide+ did say 1drop per 1.5L on the bottle, but there’s no way you’re getting a 0.75ml drop out of that. So what gives? Besides inserting a needle style syringe, how do I dose this? What’s the approximate drop measurement from the bottle?
> 
> Based on other similar sized eye droppers I have, I would assume 0.75ml is like 10 drops. But that doesn’t line up with what I would expect.


you hit the needle on the plunger. 

if you want accuracy, you need to measure.

I usually put a 3-5 drops from each bottle into my squeeze filler.


----------



## Mayhem

Rainmaker91 said:


> You might want to take a look at local hardware stores, plumbing stores and car part stores. While it won't be the same as mayhems tubing, I have had more success with non brand PVC tubing than I have had with both Duraclear and Advanced LRT. There is also fuel lines which essentially is the same stuff as EKWB ZMT and Tygon Norprene. You might also be able to import stuff from Australia (If I remember correctly Singularity Computers is based there, among others), though I must confess that I don't know how the restrictions are when importing stuff across the Tasmanian Sea.


This

I was going to send you until I got the shipping price and then pooed my self. Sorry. Shipping prices are mental atm.


----------



## Astral85

Seems like EK Duraclear don't like Mayhems X1: https://linustechtips.com/main/topi...f-like-residue-and-greasy-coating-inside-res/

Think I'm going to try Biocide+ (with the Duraclear) and hope for the best.


----------



## ciarlatano

Astral85 said:


> Seems like EK Duraclear don't like Mayhems X1: https://linustechtips.com/main/topi...f-like-residue-and-greasy-coating-inside-res/
> 
> Think I'm going to try Biocide+ (with the Duraclear) and hope for the best.


Hi, I have a newsflash for you - Duraclear doesn't like _anything_ very much. How many people need to tell you this before you stop living in denial?

It's
Not
Good
Tubing......
Period.


----------



## Avacado

ciarlatano said:


> Hi, I have a newsflash for you - Duraclear doesn't like _anything_ very much. How many people need to tell you this before you stop living in denial?
> 
> It's
> Not
> Good
> Tubing......
> Period.


Agree. All tubing is porous to a degree, soft tubing more so. You don't want seepage? Switch to hard line tubing.


----------



## Astral85

ciarlatano said:


> Hi, I have a newsflash for you - Duraclear doesn't like _anything_ very much. How many people need to tell you this before you stop living in denial?
> 
> It's
> Not
> Good
> Tubing......
> Period.


EK would have to be stupid to sell something they have not tried and tested... Maybe it's not the best tube out there but there but I believe what has happened to my tubes is not the effect of the tubing itself.

There a few posts out there by Mayhems himself saying that various Mayhems coolants had checked out with Duraclear. Instead of all the EK tube bashing perhaps a little help for someone who at the moment only has this tube to work with would be appreciated.


----------



## BugFreak

Astral85 said:


> EK would have to be stupid to sell something they have not tried and tested... Maybe it's not the best tube out there but there but I believe what has happened to my tubes is not the effect of the tubing itself.


Just do a search for ek problems in this section alone and you will see this is exactly what they do, then blame the consumer when something goes wrong. Google will show you many more results. There is good reason many of us swore off ek products and are better off for it. Poor tubing is just the start. Nickel plating that comes off, crap tubing, fluids that break down, etc...

Check the big thread about the nickel coming off a few posts down. Find the posts by the ek rep where he blames everything he can except for their product. All it really boils down to is poor QC and testing just to get the product out fast.


----------



## ciarlatano

Astral85 said:


> EK would have to be stupid to sell something they have not tried and tested... Maybe it's not the best tube out there but there but I believe what has happened to my tubes is not the effect of the tubing itself.
> 
> There a few posts out there by Mayhems himself saying that various Mayhems coolants had checked out with Duraclear. Instead of all the EK tube bashing perhaps a little help for someone who at the moment only has this tube to work with would be appreciated.


Numerous people here have tried to help you, but instead of listening you simply go into denial (see your first sentence above). You either need to change your tubing or your expectations. Denial is not going to make Duraclear better quality. If it's what you have, and what you need to use for the moment, you need to live with the results until you can get something else. All the denial in the world won't change the results.


----------



## skupples

EK has become the bottom barrel not big box company in the industry. one step below EK is Corsair products. 

expecting quality, when all they care about is penny pinch, is funny.


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> EK has become the bottom barrel not big box company in the industry. one step below EK is Corsair products.
> 
> expecting quality, when all they care about is penny pinch, is funny.


The funny part about that is that EK went from being a top notch company, to doing everything they could exactly emulate Corsair - lower the quality on the core products without dropping the price, and marketing subpar products in every sub genre possible at a ridiculously high price for maximum profits. And just like Corsair.....the kids fell for it....hook, line and sinker.


----------



## skupples

yep. they all wanna get their hands on the apple mind share. 

i have some OG EK equipment. n its good stuff... that stopped shortly after Sandy/Ivy, but i'd guess most of these customers aren't old enough to really even remember that far back. 

I still have 2 1st gen EK radiators in my system to this day. the other 2 sprung leaks though.


----------



## Shawnb99

EK does still make a good dual top for the D5’s.
That’s about all the good I can say about them.


----------



## Avacado

Astral85 said:


> EK would have to be stupid to sell something they have not tried and tested... Maybe it's not the best tube out there but there but I believe what has happened to my tubes is not the effect of the tubing itself.
> 
> There a few posts out there by Mayhems himself saying that various Mayhems coolants had checked out with Duraclear. Instead of all the EK tube bashing perhaps a little help for someone who at the moment only has this tube to work with would be appreciated.


I have about 700$ worth of EK product in my rig. It really does boil down to what I wrote earlier.


Avacado said:


> Agree. All tubing is porous to a degree, soft tubing more so. You don't want seepage? Switch to hard line tubing.


----------



## ThrashZone

Astral85 said:


> Seems like EK Duraclear don't like Mayhems X1: https://linustechtips.com/main/topi...f-like-residue-and-greasy-coating-inside-res/
> 
> Think I'm going to try Biocide+ (with the Duraclear) and hope for the best.


Hi,
Yep if that's the only option 
Distilled and inhibitor+ & biocide+ is all the will stay clear 

Not sure people realize even mayhems soft tube clouds with x1 clear so this is not just a ek tubing issue.
I would however believe that mixing the two mayhems premixes probably helped the extreme clouding Astral85 saw on his ek tubing.

Mayhems soft tubing 
One with distilled water and ++ products top one
One with x1 clear bottom
Not terribly clouded my system might of been cleaner but none the less x1 did cloud and ++ products not really at all I just remove the ++ tubing 7 days ago or so 
x1 has been off for 2 weeks.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Shawnb99 said:


> EK does still make a good dual top for the D5’s.
> That’s about all the good I can say about them.


To be fair, it does take a lot to mess up delrin/acrylic. Now as for the rest of EKs products... They work fine as long as you know exactly what to expect and treat them with silk gloves. Their nickel plating is junk, but as long as you can keep your loop relatively clean that isn't going to be an issue (was for me, but I am certain that I could have fixedit by using different products).


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep if that's the only option
> Distilled and inhibitor+ & biocide+ is all the will stay clear
> 
> Not sure people realize even mayhems soft tube clouds with x1 clear so this is not just a ek tubing issue.
> I would however believe that mixing the two mayhems premixes probably helped the extreme clouding Astral85 saw on his ek tubing.
> 
> Mayhems soft tubing
> One with distilled water and ++ products top one
> One with x1 clear bottom
> Not terribly clouded my system might of been cleaner but none the less x1 did cloud and ++ products not really at all I just remove the ++ tubing 7 days ago or so
> x1 has been off for 2 weeks.


My mayhems tubing clouded up with distilled and biocide and inhibitor, though I likely had the ratio off as I never PH tested it. That was after less then 6 months of use.


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> My mayhems tubing clouded up with distilled and biocide and inhibitor, though I likely had the ratio off as I never PH tested it. That was after less then 6 months of use.


Hi,
Not sure how long that distilled water and ++ were in 

Switched to DW++ after x1 clear turned green on that system using two hardware lab radiators 

Other system is and was using two hardware labs rads too but didn't turn green so yeah weird stuff going on with x1 clear period too much trial and error as well.


----------



## war4peace

And here I am, using EK soft tubing for the last three years with Mayhems Pastel White and Red with no issues, except slight tube yellowing after about 18 months. I changed the tube then, will change it again soon but not because it doesn't work anymore. Just part of regular maintenance.


----------



## Rainmaker91

war4peace said:


> And here I am, using EK soft tubing for the last three years with Mayhems Pastel White and Red with no issues, except slight tube yellowing after about 18 months. I changed the tube then, will change it again soon but not because it doesn't work anymore. Just part of regular maintenance.


I have a sneaking suspicion that most people with massive issues in their loops honestly just didn't clean them properly. I could be wrong of course, but a perfectly clean and PH stable environment is way better to make sure that you don't get issues with anything from corrosion and algae buildup to something like tube clouding/discolouring. Over time all clear tubing will become throwaway in either case, but doing things properly actually means a lot.


----------



## war4peace

Agreed. My watercooling components were always brand new and clean, and I even used distilled water without additives in one of my builds, which then sat untouched for 6 months with no growth or tube discoloration (EK clear tubing as well). 
Yes, soft tubings age in time and it's recommended to replace them yearly (I have 18 months cycles just because I am a lazy bum). But other than that, no issues whatsoever.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Only thing I've noticed there's no such thing as a perfect product 
All have flaws even mayhems it's just all trial and error even though these are not new products.

When ever there is an issue they all point away from themselves as to why the issue happened.


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> EK does still make a good dual top for the D5’s.
> That’s about all the good I can say about them.


so people keep saying. but does it come with laing pumps? or someone else's clone?


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> so people keep saying. but does it come with laing pumps? or someone else's clone?


EK rebrands Xylems out of the EU factory. So....Laing.


----------



## Astral85

New tubes are in (same reel of Duraclear). Running Blitz part 2 and the tube transparency is perfect. I'm wondering if the XT1 Nuke I last put in was expired or a bad batch. It was not plasticizer leeching because it occurred in less than 24 hours. Had to be a reaction between the tube and Mayhems XT1 Nuke.... This looks promising.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah that corsair radiator is made by hardware labs too 
x1 clear has a 50% chance of turning green 
I had one system do that and one that didn't both using hardware labs rads.

Best to use distilled and inhibitor+ & biocide+ and just test the water for ph7 every month.
Add a little more inhibitor+ it ph drops.


----------



## Astral85

Here's the horror picture of the first tubes. Snow white.


----------



## Astral85

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah that corsair radiator is made by hardware labs too
> x1 clear has a 50% chance of turning green
> I had one system do that and one that didn't both using hardware labs rads.
> 
> Best to use distilled and inhibitor+ & biocide+ and just test the water for ph7 every month.
> Add a little more inhibitor+ it ph drops.


Yep know the Corsair rads are HW Labs. The quality looks high. Did the green show up in your reservoir? I've used X1 for over a year with Primoflex LRT and had no issues in this system, not until I used the XT1 Nuke recently...

I managed to order Biocide+ and Inhibitor+, have it ready to go. Hopefully no more strange reactions!!


----------



## ThrashZone

Astral85 said:


> Yep know the Corsair rads are HW Labs. The quality looks high. Did the green show up in your reservoir? I've used X1 for over a year with Primoflex LRT and had no issues in this system, not until I used the XT1 Nuke recently...
> 
> I managed to order Biocide+ and Inhibitor+, have it ready to go. Hopefully no more strange reactions!!


Hi,
Yeah it turned one system green pretty quickly stained the tubing too within one week before I noticed it.
Always learning through hard knocks it's really sad actually these are not new products or new events mayhems knows about this problem yet no known issues on sellers page.


----------



## Astral85

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah it turned one system green pretty quickly stained the tubing too within one week before I noticed it.
> Always learning through hard knocks it's really sad actually these are not new products or new events mayhems knows about this problem yet no known issues on sellers page.


Maybe a bad batch? Could have been a reaction with the tube you used like what I've experienced. Mayhems says that the Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ is their best coolant yet so may be a better choice over X1 in the future...


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Only difference in tubing some plaster and some don't
Turned green with mayhems tubing so go figure.


----------



## Astral85

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Only difference in tubing some plaster and some don't
> Turned green with mayhems tubing so go figure.


There is some trial and error as you say but if that happened with X1 and Mayhems tubing it sounds like a bad batch or maybe you needed to Blitz the system first like I am..


----------



## ThrashZone

Astral85 said:


> There is some trial and error as you say but if that happened with X1 and Mayhems tubing it sounds like a bad batch or maybe you needed to Blitz the system first like I am..


Hi,
Read back x1 clear turning green is a known issue.


----------



## Avacado

Astral85 said:


> There is some trial and error as you say but if that happened with X1 and Mayhems tubing it sounds like a bad batch or maybe you needed to Blitz the system first like I am..


Did you just switch from complaining about your Duraclear staining to admitting there are "Bad batches" and now telling someone that if they would have used a blitz kit like you, they would not have had an issue with staining?


----------



## Mordorr

Pink......Pink......


----------



## ciarlatano

Avacado said:


> Did you just switch from complaining about your Duraclear staining to admitting there are "Bad batches" and now telling someone that if they would have used a blitz kit like you, they would not have had an issue with staining?


LOL....yup....


----------



## skupples

that... explains a lot.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep blitz part 1 on rads only and part 2 after, done and dusted.
Sometimes you do everything right and things still go wrong lol :buttkick:


----------



## Rainmaker91

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep blitz part 1 on rads only and part 2 after, done and dusted.
> Sometimes you do everything right and things still go wrong lol :buttkick:


Indeed it does. The problem is that there are always so many variables in our loops so it's nearly impossible to pinpoint the actual cause. Sometimes it's even multiple faults at the same time, either of which would be fine by their own but the combination means you're F***ed.


----------



## Mayhem

Wow reading though the last few posts on here its like war and peace in 1 page.

Best tubing by far = Glass - its as simple as that.

This picture is a glass system Filled with Mayhems XTR. The glass took 1/2 Hour to fit 16mm.

The tube res pics are XTR With ARGB using "Nerd Does" Controller Though XTR

Testing is still ongoing with XTR. One of the tests is 3 PCs not being cleaned and use a mix of old and new parts. This conversely is not advised but we are looking for what happens. The coolant still works perfect but corsair, HWlabs and EKWB rads instantly turn the coolant a blueish-green (as pictured in the system) within hours and you get floaty black pits from paintwork and various other crap from within the system. Again leaving old dyed coolant changes the colour but the coolant still works. Plastic tubing will cloud with XTR due to it being 6nm and is infused into the tubing. The coolant itself is thicker than normal coolant but more thermally efficient so must be run with a D5 pump minimum.


----------



## DeadCard

Hi Mayhem
Enjoying your X1 so far. Switched from Cryofuel and very happy with decision. 
It seems thick, should I be using low pump speed with D5? Or recommend metal filter with X1?

Keep making awesome coolant


----------



## XtachiX

Guess i'm joining this club. I'll be posting pictures later on.


----------



## DeadCard

ciarlatano said:


> The funny part about that is that EK went from being a top notch company, to doing everything they could exactly emulate Corsair - lower the quality on the core products without dropping the price, and marketing subpar products in every sub genre possible at a ridiculously high price for maximum profits. And just like Corsair.....the kids fell for it....hook, line and sinker.


General water cooling adventure-

1) Watch JayzShillCents. Find out it's not too difficult, looks cool
2) Think EK is best because $300 blocks and brand is everywhere
3) Buy EK, find out its worse quality than Chinese brands with more $$$ premium
4) Buy other **** to replace at lower price or same price with better quality. Have less issues

EKWB is "Supreme" brand for water cooling world  Glue EK logo on and its worth 5x more for hypebeasts.
At least Corsair is based in my country and use Mayhems coolant. If I need something fast I can buy Corsair from Amazon or Microcenter. Amazon has Corsair coolant for 1/2 price of EK Crapfuel too. 

Sorry to join bashing EK in thread. Mayhems is passionate company with cool ****, take my moneys :specool:


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Another line of fluids that turns a different color than it started out as clear simply using hardware lab/ corsair which is the same as HWL and ek rads which uses H90 copper what ever that is 
Seems odd to test with used stuff instead of new cleaned with your own blitz products unless you did clean them and also use new or mayhems shop sample rads too.

Not sure I'd ever use glass tubing.


----------



## Avacado

Using Pastel White, no complaints here.


----------



## Astral85

Tubes clouded again. Happened as soon as I added the Biocide and Inhibitor+. Question is will the clouding have any adverse effect on the water quality/safety? Hoping I can recover from two whole rebuilds in four weeks and let this sit for a bit... Flame me for the EK tube again if you want but Duraclear is on the Mayhems compatibility charts so...


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
How much did you put in the distilled water only 3-4 drops per liter and shake it up.
Fill loop. 
Mix another liter if you need more top it off.


----------



## Avacado

Astral85 said:


> Tubes clouded again. Happened as soon as I added the Biocide and Inhibitor+. Question is will the clouding have any adverse effect on the water quality/safety? Hoping I can recover from two whole rebuilds in four weeks and let this sit for a bit... Flame me for the EK tube again if you want but Duraclear is on the Mayhems compatibility charts so...


Quite possible like Thrash suggested, that you are adding too much of something that is staining the tubing.


----------



## Shawnb99

Check the PH balance if that’s off it can lead to staining of the tubes


----------



## Astral85

I put 10 drops of Biocide and Inhibitor in, might of got that wrong... Anyway the staining is not actually staining and not as stubborn as I first thought. I cut a piece of the old tube open and it's just a thin white residue on the walls. I could wipe it with my finger and the tube returned to near it's original transparency. I think I will run Blitz cleaner again. Hopefully that will shift the white residue out and next fill will use less Biocide drops...


----------



## skupples

the clouding has no affect


----------



## Astral85

skupples said:


> the clouding has no affect


OK thanks. What are your thoughts on the clouding/white residue? Has the updates given any more clues? It could be too much chemicals as Thrash as noted. Heck I wonder if the distilled water I'm using even plays a part in what's going on?


----------



## Astral85

I might be seeing better heat transfer with the Mayhems Biocide+ compared to X1. Currently have a 2.5C idle coolant delta over ambient compared to a normal 4-5C delta.


----------



## skupples

have you done any ph testing? 

yeah, i would buy that its the chemicals, since people doing crystal clear soft tube pc pr0n do it with pure water.


----------



## Astral85

skupples said:


> have you done any ph testing?
> 
> yeah, i would buy that its the chemicals, since people doing crystal clear soft tube pc pr0n do it with pure water.


I haven't got any litmus paper. Not aware of another way.. The distilled water I have says it is ph neutral. Could the ph have shifted this quickly? Can too much chemicals shift the ph? Thrash said 3-4 drops of the biocide/inhibitor and I did ten which may be my problem. I'm gonna run Blitz again and see what happens.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Astral85 said:


> I haven't got any litmus paper. Not aware of another way.. The distilled water I have says it is ph neutral. Could the ph have shifted this quickly? Can too much chemicals shift the ph? Thrash said 3-4 drops of the biocide/inhibitor and I did ten which may be my problem. I'm gonna run Blitz again and see what happens.


Any if the concentrate is measured by the amount of water you actually use. So the best way to actually prepare it is to measure up a liter of water outside of the loop and then add the concentrate there. Then you add the complete mix to your loop and it should be up to spec. You can always eyeball things, but the risk of getting the ratio wrong increases exponentially with that method.

Litraly all the concentrate I have bought for watercooling has had instructions on the bottle or packaging, follow that and you should be fine most of the time.

Oh and as far as the distilled water being an issue... it might be, though I can not say for certain. I can however say that the de ionized battery water that I got at the local hardware store works perfectly fine in my builds. Still, that doesn't mean that every other manufacturer will have as pure water as that so since you have issues with coolant then you should probably check it (It's probably fine though).


----------



## Astral85

Rainmaker91 said:


> Any if the concentrate is measured by the amount of water you actually use. So the best way to actually prepare it is to measure up a liter of water outside of the loop and then add the concentrate there. Then you add the complete mix to your loop and it should be up to spec. You can always eyeball things, but the risk of getting the ratio wrong increases exponentially with that method.
> 
> Litraly all the concentrate I have bought for watercooling has had instructions on the bottle or packaging, follow that and you should be fine most of the time.
> 
> Oh and as far as the distilled water being an issue... it might be, though I can not say for certain. I can however say that the de ionized battery water that I got at the local hardware store works perfectly fine in my builds. Still, that doesn't mean that every other manufacturer will have as pure water as that so since you have issues with coolant then you should probably check it (It's probably fine though).


I did measure 1 litre up in my filling bottle external to the loop. I think I might have just miscalculated the 0.5ml of concentrate with 10 drops. The other tricky part is trying to compensate for any fluid left in the loop... I can never get it all out. Not without disconnecting tubes and making a mess... The distilled water I have says it's pure distilled water, but I think as you say distilling methods could vary. Does the expiry date on distilled water just mean it's ph level will change at that date?


----------



## war4peace

DeadCard said:


> General water cooling adventure-
> 
> 1) Watch JayzShillCents. Find out it's not too difficult, looks cool
> 2) Think EK is best because $300 blocks and brand is everywhere
> 3) Buy EK, find out its worse quality than Chinese brands with more $$$ premium
> 4) Buy other **** to replace at lower price or same price with better quality. Have less issues
> 
> EKWB is "Supreme" brand for water cooling world  Glue EK logo on and its worth 5x more for hypebeasts.
> At least Corsair is based in my country and use Mayhems coolant. If I need something fast I can buy Corsair from Amazon or Microcenter. Amazon has Corsair coolant for 1/2 price of EK Crapfuel too.
> 
> Sorry to join bashing EK in thread. Mayhems is passionate company with cool ****, take my moneys :specool:


Um... you might not have known this but here goes.
Corsair hired top people formerly from EKWB. The Corsair waterblocks are no different from EKWB, except from some design changes that don't change performance. Corsair fittings are Bitspower rebrands (and there's been suspicions for years that Bitspower are rebranded Barrow fittings). Corsair radiators are Hardware Labs rebrands IIRC (Might not be HWLabs but they are rebrands anyway). Their pump/reservoir combos use polished Nylon which should be cheaper to make but not reflected in their price... but I digress. Their pumps are Xylem D5, same as most D5 retailers.

To summarize: In the custom watercooling world, Corsair is EKWB with a drop of lemon.

Now, I am not defending EKWB (although I am yet to experience anything defective from what I bought from them), I just wanted to show facts.
I didn't like their liquid, I am using Mayhems everywhere, however there was no tube clouding (with EKWB rads, then Watercool rads), only slight yellowing after over a year of 24/7 usage. There was no nickel plating flaking on any of their blocks. There was no issue with their fittings. There was no issue with their pumps (DDC or D5). 

Bashing EKWB might be a trend nowadays, but I personally can't fault them for anything other than liquids (which I didn't like).


----------



## ThrashZone

Astral85 said:


> I put 10 drops of Biocide and Inhibitor in, might of got that wrong... Anyway the staining is not actually staining and not as stubborn as I first thought. I cut a piece of the old tube open and it's just a thin white residue on the walls. I could wipe it with my finger and the tube returned to near it's original transparency. I think I will run Blitz cleaner again. Hopefully that will shift the white residue out and next fill will use less Biocide drops...


Hi,
Dang that's enough product for 2.5 liters at the least 

Put as much of the over mixed fluid back in a liter bottle as you can turn the case upside down to get it out of the rad.
Then see how much come out 
Add more distilled water to it at least one more liter shake it up.
Clean the tubing if you have a gun/ rifle cleaning kit use it rod/ small rag soap water and push it through.


----------



## Astral85

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Dang that's enough product for 2.5 liters at the least
> 
> Put as much of the over mixed fluid back in a liter bottle as you can turn the case upside down to get it out of the rad.
> Then see how much come out
> Add more distilled water to it at least one more liter shake it up.
> Clean the tubing if you have a gun/ rifle cleaning kit use it rod/ small rag soap water and push it through.


Yeah don't know how I got that wrong! The front rad has the U bend at the top and the ports facing downwards so shouldn't need to be tipped upside down but for some reason water is still get stuck in there. I'm not very keen on undoing all of the tubing and manually cleaning the insides, I'm hoping that another Blitz clean will flush it out...


----------



## ThrashZone

Astral85 said:


> Yeah don't know how I got that wrong! The front rad has the U bend at the top and the ports facing downwards so shouldn't need to be tipped upside down but for some reason water is still get stuck in there. I'm not very keen on undoing all of the tubing and manually cleaning the insides, I'm hoping that another Blitz clean will flush it out...


Hi,
Blitz part 2 probably won't.
It's not much tubing do it manually it will be faster than waiting for blitz to not work lol 

All of it doesn't have to come out just most.
Then just add more distilled and drain it again that will delude what was left in it.
Then don't worry about what's left in there just get out as much as you can.
Run blitz 2 after if you wish too.


----------



## Astral85

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Blitz part 2 probably won't.
> It's not much tubing do it manually it will be faster than waiting for blitz to not work lol
> 
> All of it doesn't have to come out just most.
> Then just add more distilled and drain it again that will delude what was left in it.
> Then don't worry about what's left in there just get out as much as you can.
> Run blitz 2 after if you wish too.


One tube runs down behind the pump/res and the only way to access it is by removing the GPU/water block and dismounting the whole pump/res. It's a lot of work... The other tubes are easy to access and I could poke something down to clean them. We'll see. Two whole rebuilds in 4 weeks and I'm pretty exhausted from it. At least the performance isn't as bad as the tubes look. GPU's running at 40-44C under load, coolant max 30-32.8C.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Well do how ever you want to then


----------



## Astral85

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Well do how ever you want to then


I'll get it sorted, just a bit worn out.


----------



## ThrashZone

Astral85 said:


> I'll get it sorted, just a bit worn out.


Hi,
Yeah seems we just need to lower our expectations using clear tubing of any brand.
But distilled and mayhems ..+ ..+ products does stay clear if done correctly. 
I'll have to look back to see when I switched to it 
It was right after one system turned green might of been 6 months ago and it still looked good when I just switched to modmymods premix at 10.us per liter last week.


----------



## Avacado

Have you considered that it could possibly be the Blitz Part 2 residue remaining on your tubing, I know mine gets soapy? Could you say run a few fill/drain cycles of distilled, and then clean your tubing with a paper towel?


----------



## Hequaqua

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah seems we just need to lower our expectations using clear tubing of any brand.
> But distilled and mayhems ..+ ..+ products does stay clear if done correctly.
> I'll have to look back to see when I switched to it
> It was right after one system turned green might of been 6 months ago and it still looked good when I just switched to modmymods premix at 10.us per liter last week.


Do you like the fluid from ModMyMods?

I bought two bottles...had it buy one get one.....haven't swapped out yet though. Waiting on my new pump(just like the current one, only black). I messed up the connector on my current one....and it's been a PIA from time to time.

EDIT: Also waiting on the new CPU block.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hequaqua said:


> Do you like the fluid from ModMyMods?
> 
> I bought two bottles...had it buy one get one.....haven't swapped out yet though. Waiting on my new pump(just like the current one, only black). I messed up the connector on my current one....and it's been a PIA from time to time.
> 
> EDIT: Also waiting on the new CPU block.


Hi,
Yeah it's good cheaper 10.00/ closer if in the USA and like you said buy 2 one is free 
It hasn't turned green yet so already better than x1 clear :thumb:


----------



## Hequaqua

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah it's good cheaper 10.00/ closer if in the USA and like you said buy 2 one is free
> It hasn't turned green yet so already better than x1 clear :thumb:


Good to know. :thumb:

I've been using distilled water and Mayhem's(both Biocide and Inhibitor). I've also used some ThermalTake pre-mix that I got for free. I've also tried the PrimoChill Utopia. I haven't had any issues other than the ThermalTake staining(it was orange). Oh...I also used the Mayhem's Pastel(White) that I got from another user here on OCN. He sent me two bottles of the concentrate and some red dye. All I paid was the shipping on it.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I'm looking for a universal fluid so I can switch mora 360 between systems and maybe even add another mora soon and x1 failed that when it turned green on my x99 system
So modmymods stuff is looking good for this now but still early only one week so far.

Another week and I'll switch water blocks or clean filter and see what the modmymods pvc flexible hosing looks like.
Got all my quick disconnects on so block removal/ filter is easier without completely draining either system


----------



## war4peace

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I'm looking for a universal fluid so I can switch mora 360 between systems and maybe even add another mora soon and x1 failed that when it turned green on my x99 system


I have an X99 system with a MoRa 420 and been using Mayhems Pastel White since I bought it. When I was refilling my loop, for whatever reason (hardware changes, tubing change), I used a couple QDCs to isolate the radiator with its liquid and only drain what was in the PC itself. After refilling, I reconnected the MoRa to the QDCs and this worked perfectly. And still does.
The reason I chose Pastel White was that it takes the color of the LEDs, so if I want a red theme in my PC, I turn the LEDs red and voila! Red liquid


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Point of using clear fluid and tubing is well obvious 
Clouding I might as well use white at least it would well be white so clouding wouldn't be noticed.


----------



## Hequaqua

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Point of using clear fluid and tubing is well obvious
> Clouding I might as well use white at least it would well be white so clouding wouldn't be noticed.


Yep...I'm using the Mayhem's white tubing...love it. :thumb:


----------



## broodro0ster

Astral85 said:


> I haven't got any litmus paper. Not aware of another way.. The distilled water I have says it is ph neutral. Could the ph have shifted this quickly? Can too much chemicals shift the ph? Thrash said 3-4 drops of the biocide/inhibitor and I did ten which may be my problem. I'm gonna run Blitz again and see what happens.


Michael (the owner of Mayhems) wrote somewhere to use only 1-2 drops per liter of coolant. 1 drop was actually more than enough. So 10 drops won't help anything.


----------



## skupples

you're using way too much. 

do the bottles no longer provide directions? i know i know, drops are innacurate. so go buy a baby medicine doser from the pharmacy. or a tipless syringe from the counter.


----------



## Astral85

When I showed EK what happened to my tubes they offered a replacement roll of Duraclear. It's shipping now. I might as well just put the new tubing in rather than try to clean this up. Not gonna bother with the tube in behind the pump/res though, too much work to get to that.


----------



## BugFreak

True but expect the same results out of the same crap tubing. At least they replaced it, generally they blame the user and deny any claims.


----------



## Astral85

BugFreak said:


> True but expect the same results out of the same crap tubing. At least they replaced it, generally they blame the user and deny any claims.


The ultimate test would be Duraclear with EK's own Cryofuel which they claim will look transparent but I don't think I will bother. I will probably order some Mayhems tube or possibly the modmymod tubing thrashzone is testing. As long as I have something working in the mean time that's OK.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah just to strong
Cut it with more distilled.


----------



## CrazyDiamond

From my understanding, you can go very strong with the inhibitor without it really being an issue. Might just suspend more crap in your system if it's dirty. But the biocide may be another story.


----------



## skupples

biocide+ is what you use to balance pH during system maintenance, so yeah.


----------



## Bartdude

Can someone from Mayhems answer a question? I live in the UK and I brought a Mayhems Blitz part 1 from Overclockers so I could clean and install a new rad this w/e so image my disappointment after opening the box to find this....is that the correct packaging for part 1? or did Overclockers just totally send me the wrong package? I checked my order and I definitely ordered part 1


----------



## Avacado

Part 2 coming in the "Basic Kit" is correct. You would need the pro kit with both or specifically Blitz for part 1. Maybe they shipped the wrong one by mistake.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Where ever you asked they didn't know what came in the basic kit.
Part 2 is for after 
Part 1 is for rads only as you intended to buy but you do need both part 1 & 2 though.


----------



## Bartdude

Avacado said:


> Part 2 coming in the "Basic Kit" is correct. You would need the pro kit with both or specifically Blitz for part 1. Maybe they shipped the wrong one by mistake.


I specifically ordered part 1, even says that on the order form from Overclockers! @ThrashZone I already own some part 2 hence the reason for just buying part 1

EDIT: Well Overclcockers are sending me part 1 FOC and told me to keep the part 2  Just have to wait till next w/e


----------



## ThrashZone

Bartdude said:


> I specifically ordered part 1, even says that on the order form from Overclockers! @ThrashZone I already own some part 2 hence the reason for just buying part 1
> 
> EDIT: Well Overclcockers are sending me part 1 FOC and told me to keep the part 2  Just have to wait till next w/e


Hi,
So contact this "overclockers" place and say they made a mistake this package does not contain part 1.


----------



## Shawnb99

Bartdude said:


> I specifically ordered part 1, even says that on the order form from Overclockers! @ThrashZone I already own some part 2 hence the reason for just buying part 1
> 
> EDIT: Well Overclcockers are sending me part 1 FOC and told me to keep the part 2  Just have to wait till next w/e


Yeah likely just a mistake when making up your order. Glad you got it sorted out and now you get an extra Part 2.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Blitz Part 1 only 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SQ3TV2F?tag=duckduckgo-ffab-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1

Pro kit in the UK why not go directly to mayhems site sure they have part 1 only too
https://www.mayhems.net/products/mayhems-blitz-kit

Yep
https://www.mayhems.net/collections/cleaning/products/mayhems-blitz-part-one-only


----------



## Astral85

Does anyone know how often you can use Blitz pt 2? As I went overboard with the Biocide and Inhibitor+ I'm wondering if I should run another Blitz before I do tube replacement #3 and refill. Just to get rid of excess chemicals... Or would a plain distilled water rinse do the job?


----------



## Avacado

Astral85 said:


> Does anyone know how often you can use Blitz pt 2? As I went overboard with the Biocide and Inhibitor+ I'm wondering if I should run another Blitz before I do tube replacement #3 and refill. Just to get rid of excess chemicals... Or would a plain distilled water rinse do the job?


To my understanding, you can run Part #2 to your hearts desire and as much as you can afford. Though, you would probably be fine with a distilled rinse or 2. Not like the biocide or inhibitor just hang out on your components.


----------



## skupples

Astral85 said:


> Does anyone know how often you can use Blitz pt 2? As I went overboard with the Biocide and Inhibitor+ I'm wondering if I should run another Blitz before I do tube replacement #3 and refill. Just to get rid of excess chemicals... Or would a plain distilled water rinse do the job?


not necessary. just flush with water. you're really over complicating things for yourself


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> not necessary. just flush with water. you're really over complicating things for yourself


"Again". You forgot "again".


----------



## skupples

still.


----------



## Leonko

hey guys. im going with acrylic tubing for my watercooling build. What coolant should use? XT-1 or X1 ? I know there has been some modification with XT-1 that it is now PETG safe, but it is still the best for acrylic tubing? or it doesnt matter?


----------



## ciarlatano

Leonko said:


> hey guys. im going with acrylic tubing for my watercooling build. What coolant should use? XT-1 or X1 ? I know there has been some modification with XT-1 that it is now PETG safe, but it is still the best for acrylic tubing? or it doesnt matter?


X1. XT-1 is aimed at sub ambient usage.


----------



## Astral85

Has anyone used Primoflex LRT clear tube with Mayhems clear fluids or any other fluids?


----------



## ciarlatano

Astral85 said:


> Has anyone used Primoflex LRT clear tube with Mayhems clear fluids or any other fluids?


Yes, many people have.


----------



## BugFreak

Astral85 said:


> Has anyone used Primoflex LRT clear tube with Mayhems clear fluids or any other fluids?


Using it right now with no problems so far.


----------



## Astral85

BugFreak said:


> Using it right now with no problems so far.


With what fluid? How does it look?


----------



## Astral85

Is the per foot stuff at PPCS legit? 

https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...in-id-x-5-8in-od-crystal-clear-pflexa-58.html


----------



## Astral85

This is exactly what I've experienced with EK Duraclear and Mayhems coolants, post #29: http://forums.pureoverclock.com/primochill/19127-new-primoflex-advanced-lrt-tubing-2.html

It would be helpful to hear from other Primoflex LRT clear users, what coolants they're using and their experience.


----------



## skupples

Astral85 said:


> Has anyone used Primoflex LRT clear tube with Mayhems clear fluids or any other fluids?


yes, for years and years on end.

clear tube always clouds. its just a matter of how quickly. hours, days, or weeks. there's a reason why you're having so much trouble getting straight forward information on clear tube staying clear. ONLY the manufacturers claim its possible. Anyone else that's messed with it will tell you their tubing has shifted, it was just a matter of time. 

this is why I usually just use black or white. LRT supposedly leaches a bit more plasticizer than other newer brands but I've never had any issues really. I just try to keep my water ph balanced.


----------



## ThrashZone

Astral85 said:


> Is the per foot stuff at PPCS legit?
> 
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...in-id-x-5-8in-od-crystal-clear-pflexa-58.html


Hi,
2.50 per foot is stupid expensive.

If shipping isn't an issue just get the just under 1.00 per foot modmymods stuff 

If you want to pay a lot just go get some tygon little bit of a gold tint to it and some typing down it 

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=91121&catid=864


https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=75640&catid=864


----------



## BugFreak

Astral85 said:


> With what fluid? How does it look?


Using X-1 clear with it for about a month now and so far so good. For me this was more a test of the premix not the tubing because it is my first build using premix.

To give a comparison of the tubing vs perfectly clear look at the XSPC glass res. Please excuse the coloring on the bottom of the pic. It is not the tubing but poor lighting quality and a cell phone taking the pic. That tubing is the same color as the top tubing.

Basically I look at it like this...To expect clear tubing to stay perfectly clear is just silly so as long as it stays anything but yellow or some crazy color I'm good with it. This is the second time I've used this tubing and both times I've had no problems. The first time was not a premix and it still stayed clear. Over the years I've used Clearflex, Tygon and just about every other tubing worth a damn and I like the bends this offers and the color it retains more than others so I'm happy to pay the price. Seriously, it will be in the pc for a year or more for what $26US? I pay more on a monthly basis for things far less useful than this tubing so I can handle the price.

In case you were wondering, I used Blitz 1 on the rads and Blitz 2 on the whole loop prior to filling. The front rad and pump were used (by me) while the top rad, res, and block were new.


----------



## latexyankee

Geez this thread is old, I remember loking through it 4 years ago.

So Ive been us mayhems pastel for the last 4 years, I think Im over it for now. Going to switch to XT most likely. How does this UV coolant look with just RGB fans and strips? I dont think im going to invest to uv lighting, Id rather just use my rgb. I see pics of builds all the time where the coolant is colored, maybe a little translucent but it still sort of glows in the case lighting. Can anyone share or link me to some pics? Id rather use mayhems than another brand but i want to be I know what Im getting. 

Thanks


----------



## Astral85

I decided on Mayhems Ultra Clear instead of Primo LRT. Price + shipping was better. Hoping to have much better results with the Mayhems than the EK duraclear! Something that may be of interest - the EK tubing I pulled that was all heavily clouded has dried to almost it's original clearness. Must be something to do with the tube being in constant contact with the fluid.


----------



## skupples

Astral85 said:


> I decided on Mayhems Ultra Clear instead of Primo LRT. Price + shipping was better. Hoping to have much better results with the Mayhems than the EK duraclear! Something that may be of interest - the EK tubing I pulled that was all heavily clouded has dried to almost it's original clearness. Must be something to do with the tube being in constant contact with the fluid.


as many have previously stated.

tubes are porous. they suck up fluid, retain, & evaporate it.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
10 drops of each chemical shock


----------



## farpetrad

I just blitzed 2 new radiators and am wondering if I should just setup a loop outside the case with the two new radiators, new res and block instead of installing it all in the case to run part 2. Anyone have a preference?


----------



## ThrashZone

farpetrad said:


> I just blitzed 2 new radiators and am wondering if I should just setup a loop outside the case with the two new radiators, new res and block instead of installing it all in the case to run part 2. Anyone have a preference?


Hi,
Yeah I do a temporary loop for part 2 on the rads after part 1.
Don't want any of part 1 in the system.


----------



## farpetrad

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah I do a temporary loop for part 2 on the rads after part 1.
> Don't want any of part 1 in the system.


Sweet thats pretty much what I was thinking when I dumped the part 1 down the sink this morning, even though I flushed them out with distilled after I didn't want any chance of any being left making it into the current loop. Off to set this up and get these cleaned so I can do my gpu loop tomorrow and swap out my heatkiller for optimus block.


----------



## ThrashZone

farpetrad said:


> Sweet thats pretty much what I was thinking when I dumped the part 1 down the sink this morning, even though I flushed them out with distilled after I didn't want any chance of any being left making it into the current loop. Off to set this up and get these cleaned so I can do my gpu loop tomorrow and swap out my heatkiller for optimus block.


Hi,
A lot easier too you can shake/ flip... the rads while running so they do get cleaner difficult to shake a case ...


----------



## Shawnb99

farpetrad said:


> Sweet thats pretty much what I was thinking when I dumped the part 1 down the sink this morning, even though I flushed them out with distilled after I didn't want any chance of any being left making it into the current loop. Off to set this up and get these cleaned so I can do my gpu loop tomorrow and swap out my heatkiller for optimus block.


You can resuse Blitz part 1 multiple times. Next time don't be so quick to throw it out as it's still good to clean at least 3-4 more times.


----------



## farpetrad

Shawnb99 said:


> You can resuse Blitz part 1 multiple times. Next time don't be so quick to throw it out as it's still good to clean at least 3-4 more times.


Doh! Guess I should keep some of those gallon bottles from the distilled. So dissapointed I was 1 fitting short so could only hook up the reservoir and 2 radiators and had to leave the block out of the cleaning loop but didn't want to make another run to microcenter. Also was in such a rush didn't hook up a drain so will be draining from the reservoir tomorrow (facepalm).

Also the optimus reservoir is so sweet, love the little tornado it produces.


----------



## Mayhem

Coming Soon

Mayhems Glass Scoring Kit and Jigs for 12,13 and 16mm Glass tubing.

The kit comes with jigs for all 3 sizes of glass tubing we make, Also included is an accurate Ruler and End caps to aid in spinning the glass.

Very simple to use, No faffing about!!!

1) Fit the correct size Jogs either 12,13 or 16mm
2) Measure the glass you would like to cut,
3) Adjust The to the correct size using the ruler at the base.
4) Put the glass tube into the jig
5) Add a little oil (comes in the kit) to the cutting Wheel
6) Push down lightly on the tube and roll towards the wheels 360 degrees.
7) Take tube off and dip in cold water.
8) Snap glass at the score point facing away from you.
9) Job Done.

WHats in the Kit (being updated so not end product yet)

> Full set of fittings
> Back Plate
> 12,13 and 16mm Soft glass holder for the back
> 12,13 and 16mm Middle and front Jigs
> Glass Scorer
> Glass Oil
> Anti-Slip feet
> Measuring Ruler
> Instructions

(may Include PPE depending on stocks (covoid is causing this to be a nightmare atm).


----------



## Avacado

Fantastic!


----------



## war4peace

That's awesome!


----------



## iamjanco

I'll third that, I like it :thumb:

When will that kit be available?


----------



## Mayhem

Were just waiting for some extra Parts to arrive once here we are ready to go.

Also, I need to do the instructions.

Were also Opening up the "Mayhems Special ProjeX" and working closely with other members of the community to bring their ideas forwards such as Nerd Does. The Glass Cutting system is part of this Project as is his ARGB Controller. More info to come.

Mayhems Special ProjeX is simply where we work with other Modders via different methods such as in house development and Manufacturing or non-profit cash injection, though to helping hit resellers worldwide and through our partners. We have been doing this for a while in the past including introduction and helping different people, even helping to get people into the industry with advice and the best way to go about things. www.mspx.dev coming soon. Why let other companies take your ideas and profit from them when we can take them to the forefront of the industry.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Just noticed you guys only make one 140mm x3 rad HTF4 and it's not really in the shop either 

https://watercool.de/en/node/397

So can I assume there is no 140x2 or 280 in this.

Oops this was supposed to be in the watercool thread that reservoir cutter threw me off lol


----------



## skupples

what did we call PPE before covid? i'm guessing that was the actual medical term for it, n we all adopted it thanks to the media (monkey see monkey do is much realer than the narrative!)


----------



## dwolvin

Huh, I never thought of that. I thought PPE was the military term.


----------



## ciarlatano

Mayhem said:


> Coming Soon
> 
> Mayhems Glass Scoring Kit and Jigs for 12,13 and 16mm Glass tubing.


Not my thing, but this is a really nice kit. Really well thought out.


----------



## skupples

dwolvin said:


> Huh, I never thought of that. I thought PPE was the military term.


that's what I mean... it was strictly a medical/military term until COVID & the media using it to discuss shortage of said stuff.

idk random thought.


----------



## Mayhem

< Ex Military (always called PPE (protective personal equipment). lol Just everyone knows what it is now might as well use the terminology were it's applicable.

Pic below more designs for the glass kit.

Kits are ready except were awaiting 1 part to arrive before we can start shipping, Due to global shipping taking an age we don't know when they will arrive. So were working on extras for the kit while we wait.

Pic Below is simple. Simply place the rulers between the fittings, With the back hold fitted (1 closed, 1 open) you can then mark the glass where you would like to cut. You can also do the glass on angles. There will be different side rulers for different lengths of glass all included in the kit. The back holder has a little flex to allow for different angles of glass. There will be different sizes of the back holder for 12,13 and 16mm glass.

We aim to have a kit that comprises of everything eventually needed for glass bending and manipulating.


----------



## Avacado

skupples said:


> that's what I mean... it was strictly a medical/military term until COVID & the media using it to discuss shortage of said stuff.
> 
> idk random thought.


PPE is a medical term that is used within the military but predominantly by medical personnel. I have been in medicine for 20 years and it has always had that acronym. There usually isn't any middle ground and most would only have NBC gear for protection.


----------



## Avacado

Hi @Mayhem, your coolant and cleaning solutions are much appreciated.


----------



## Mayhem

The question, Would people like the rulers and measuring kit (pictured above) in stainless steel 3mm or Acrylic 3mm?

These are some renders of it with a stainless steel ruler in the base.

As seen there are 3 sets of jigs for 12,13 and 16mm Glass (with 3 size end stops). The back spacers we are working on will be 20mm and 40mm. So the minimum size you can score will be either 30mm to 50mm and the longest 250mm (this is the halfway point of our 500mm glass). So if you wish to score at 300mm you simply score at the opposite end at 200mm, leaving 300mm left over.

Pre-bent 90 Degree Glass can also be scored, just simply use the jig over the end of a table. 

All this is designed and made in the UK in our factory (by yours truly).


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> The question, Would people like the rulers and measuring kit (pictured above) in stainless steel 3mm or Acrylic 3mm?
> 
> These are some renders of it with a stainless steel ruler in the base.
> 
> As seen there are 3 sets of jigs for 12,13 and 16mm Glass (with 3 size end stops). The back spacers we are working on will be 20mm and 40mm. So the minimum size you can score will be either 30mm to 50mm and the longest 250mm (this is the halfway point of our 500mm glass). So if you wish to score at 300mm you simply score at the opposite end at 200mm, leaving 300mm left over.
> 
> Pre-bent 90 Degree Glass can also be scored, just simply use the jig over the end of a table.
> 
> All this is designed and made in the UK in our factory (by yours truly).


How significant is the price difference between SS and Acrylic? Assuming they accomplish the same task. Thank you in advance for your correspondence in development of future products.


----------



## Bartdude

So l8 reply (work laptop took a nose dive  ) but I contacted Overclockers and they kindly sent me out a full kit (part 1 & 2) and told me to keep the part 2 they sent by mistake , new rad went in yesterday (Sunday) pissed tho, had a leek I didn't see at the bottom of case (HL tube not in correctly bottom rad) now awaiting some more coolant! I'll post some pics of what came out of the rad after part 1 in the other thread.


----------



## Mayhem

Bartdude said:


> So l8 reply (work laptop took a nose dive  ) but I contacted Overclockers and they kindly sent me out a full kit (part 1 & 2) and told me to keep the part 2 they sent by mistake , new rad went in yesterday (Sunday) pissed tho, had a leek I didn't see at the bottom of case (HL tube not in correctly bottom rad) now awaiting some more coolant! I'll post some pics of what came out of the rad after part 1 in the other thread.


Now that explains the question they asked me the other day ... haha

@Avacado I don't know atm but it would not be much. Probably an extra £1 to £2 at most.


----------



## skupples

metal over plastic?

yes.


----------



## kacsa

Im about to pick my first custom loop color theme.
I would like to know which mayhem (preferable a long lasting and UV) dye is the best?

Worst case i will just go with x1 clear.


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> Now that explains the question they asked me the other day ... haha
> 
> @Avacado I don't know atm but it would not be much. Probably an extra £1 to £2 at most.


I'm with Skupps. The feel of SS for an extra quid or two is worth it. It looks like a sufficient enough design to give me enough confidence to try more complex tubing.


----------



## skupples

the whole thing will "feel" much more rigid i'm sure.


kacsa said:


> Im about to pick my first custom loop color theme.
> I would like to know which mayhem (preferable a long lasting and UV) dye is the best?
> 
> Worst case i will just go with x1 clear.


the UVs all use the same ingredient to react. so whatever you fancy I suppose.

X1 Clear UV blue is my <3


----------



## Avacado

P.S. @Mayhem. After a 12 hour shift at the hospital, your pastel white is setting the ******* mood right now. Thought I would share some of the joy your product brings me every night.


----------



## kacsa

skupples said:


> the whole thing will "feel" much more rigid i'm sure.
> 
> 
> the UVs all use the same ingredient to react. so whatever you fancy I suppose.
> 
> X1 Clear UV blue is my <3


How long the UV part last though?
Couldnt find any reliable information other than people saying 1-2 days(uv clear blue) while some reported the pastel uv green still reacting nicely after 6month.


----------



## skupples

it depends on how well you pre-clean your system.

if you follow ALL the steps to a T, you should get at least a year out of the UV effect.

not sure we've had many people come in here saying their UV dropped its shine in 2 days. usually its people coming in to state how mayhem's saved their watercooling lives.


----------



## kacsa

skupples said:


> it depends on how well you pre-clean your system.
> 
> if you follow ALL the steps to a T, you should get at least a year out of the UV effect.
> 
> not sure we've had many people come in here saying their UV dropped its shine in 2 days. usually its people coming in to state how mayhem's saved their watercooling lives.



Thats reassuring. Do you mind taking a picture(at night) how it looks like?


----------



## skupples

oh, i'm currently running just bio/inhib+ at the moment. I'm being extra cheep until my 4900+3080ti rebuild where I'll be replacing the last of my nearly decade old EK radiators.

its not joke that mayhems makes the best stuff. I don't really shill for anyone else... but mick? all day. even if he used to be a bit of a dick to the dumber end users  i totally get the energy


----------



## latexyankee

So the blitz kit is sold out in the US. Does anyone know where i can grab the full kit? I cant just wait, gotta get this system up. If not i may use the EK rad cleaner. Is that stuff at least safe?


----------



## skupples

you could always get your own acid(muriatic is usually easy to get), & water it down. 

as for replacing part 2... hmmm that one's debatable.


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> you could always get your own acid(muriatic is usually easy to get), & water it down.
> 
> as for replacing part 2... hmmm that one's debatable.


Or citric acid and clean the rads a few times with it. Neither are as easy and effective as Blitz, but they can do a decent job with a bit of work.

Part 2 is harder to replace. Maybe a few drops of Dawn and flush really well?


----------



## Shawnb99

ciarlatano said:


> Or citric acid and clean the rads a few times with it. Neither are as easy and effective as Blitz, but they can do a decent job with a bit of work.
> 
> Part 2 is harder to replace. Maybe a few drops of Dawn and flush really well?



Also add in a little baking soda or something to counteract the acid.


----------



## skupples

soda, ajax, lots of rinses.


----------



## Mayhem

Weve been updating the scoring system, now has adjustable scoring and a few extra features. The ruler not pictured is also much better.


----------



## Astral85

@Mayhem Is there any special prep needed for your Ultra clear tubing or can it simply be rinsed with distilled water before using coolant with it?


----------



## Mayhem

Astral85 said:


> @Mayhem Is there any special prep needed for your Ultra clear tubing or can it simply be rinsed with distilled water before using coolant with it?


Just rrince with water and use. No SP needed.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems Glass Scoring system completed

Changes are the cutting wheel is adjustable, ruler better and more stable, cutting wheels adjustments, and a few other things.

Anyware from 40mm to 250mm glass length can be scored.
Easy and simple to use
Comes with jigs for 12,13 and 16mm round glass tubes (only mayhems glass tubing tested and tolerances are all within range).
16mm Back cup with a 5mm depth (this is marked on the ruler).

All acrylic and 3d printed parts are made at Mayhems. All bars are cut to size and tapered at Mayhems.


----------



## Astral85

It looks good. Can you give any more details on how the actual cutting works?


----------



## ciarlatano

Astral85 said:


> It looks good. Can you give any more details on how the actual cutting works?


https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...ial-mayhems-users-club-1720.html#post28454214


----------



## Mayhem

Instructions on it and a video coming soon. or might just send out a few free to ppl and let them do the videos since I'm so bad at it.


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> Instructions on it and a video coming soon. or might just send out a few free to ppl and let them do the videos since I'm so bad at it.


Awesome! I would love that, but sadly I would be too nervous to produce a good product (Video) lol. Waaay too much pressure. Very cool of you to offer.


----------



## Mayhem

demo Pics of the instructions


----------



## Astral85

@Mayhem

Your ultra clear tubing is bloody awesome! Installed this weekend. It's so shiny and transparent. You can just see the difference in quality compared to EK's duraclear. Well done, happy customer. Tubes been in 24 hours and still looks great. Very promising.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah looks good at first don't be surprised in a couple weeks.. it clouds a bit 
Lower expectations lol x1 clouds soft tubing period


----------



## Astral85

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah looks good at first don't be surprised in a couple weeks.. it clouds a bit
> Lower expectations lol x1 clouds soft tubing period


Usually the EK tubes look like sewage by now so this is very promising... Using two drops Biocide/Inhibitor+ distilled water.


----------



## Moose-Tech

latexyankee said:


> So the blitz kit is sold out in the US. Does anyone know where i can grab the full kit? I cant just wait, gotta get this system up. If not i may use the EK rad cleaner. Is that stuff at least safe?


PPCS has the Mayhems Blitz Part 2. However, it is called the Mayhems Basic Blitz Kit.

https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...ayhems-blitz-basic-cleaning-system-mbbk1.html

72 in stock. Recently ordered some for myself.


----------



## Mordorr

This time i keep my D5 working 24/7.....hope now X1 Clear keeps clear more time, and not.....pink!


----------



## ThrashZone

Astral85 said:


> Usually the EK tubes look like sewage by now so this is very promising... Using two drops Biocide/Inhibitor+ distilled water.


Hi,
Okay good you should be fine then inhibitor+ & biocide+ do stay clear just don't over do them ph7 test every month :thumb:


----------



## Avacado

Moose-Tech said:


> PPCS has the Mayhems Blitz Part 2. However, it is called the Mayhems Basic Blitz Kit.
> 
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...ayhems-blitz-basic-cleaning-system-mbbk1.html
> 
> 72 in stock. Recently ordered some for myself.


I had to buy part 1 and 2 individually from PPCS.


----------



## Astral85

With the Ph paper strips is it a quick dip in the water and out or does it need to soak a bit?


----------



## Avacado

Quick dip is all you need. You will also know when there is no more blue tint to the liquid.


----------



## Astral85

What is the expiry of Mayhems Biocide+ and Inhibitor+? I've just noticed the manufacture date on my Inhibitor+ is 12/04/18. Biocide+ is 20/03/19. Are these too old?


----------



## Astral85

Avacado said:


> Quick dip is all you need. You will also know when there is no more blue tint to the liquid.


Where is the correct place to take the reading? the wet side/end or where it drys in the center next to the dry part of the paper? I can see it's slightly darker in the center next to the dried paper. What does this look like? A Ph 7-8 or 9? Does it look more basic than neutral? Have I overdone the Biocide/Inhibitor again? Did two drops of each. Strip is way more dried out in second pic, just forgot to include the chart.

Edit: forgot to ask what do you mean about the blue tint?


----------



## Mayhem

43 seconds of your life taken -#>


----------



## Shawnb99

Electrical PH reader and you never have to wonder about strips again. Just a pain to calibrate sometimes but still no strips


----------



## skupples

strips become less accurate over time as well, unless you're keeping them in an air tight container.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
You sure don't go by went it's dried out 
So yeah dip until it changes color and that's the ph color.
Looks like you need another drop of each let it run for a day or two retest.

Sad mayhem didn't even comment.


----------



## Mordorr

Well, one month after clean and disinfect my system, and use X1 Clear + D5 24/7, i can start see on Heatkiller D5 reservator
some particles dancing on the top......plasticizer i suspect.

Liquid: X1 Clear
Tube: Tygan E 3603

Lets hope for the best and maybe are some leftovers from previous system...:Snorkle:


----------



## broodro0ster

I wouldn't add any more drops. 1 drop of each is enough for 1l of fluid. The strip should be wet when comparing. It looks darker in the first pic than the second and that close to PH7, so that's good.

Just add 1 drop of each product after 1 year if you don't want to refresh the fluid.


----------



## broodro0ster

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You sure don't go by went it's dried out
> So yeah dip until it changes color and that's the ph color.
> Looks like you need another drop of each let it run for a day or two retest.
> 
> Sad mayhem didn't even comment.


Adding a drop of both products won't do a lot expect increasing the overal concentration, but it won't change the PH balance a lot.
If you add Biocide+, it's become more acidic (lower PH), if you add inhibitor it will become more basic (higher PH).


----------



## ThrashZone

broodro0ster said:


> Adding a drop of both products won't do a lot expect increasing the overal concentration, but it won't change the PH balance a lot.
> If you add Biocide+, it's become more acidic (lower PH), if you add inhibitor it will become more basic (higher PH).


Hi,
As far as I've noticed he's only got two drops of each now.

But as far as your other comment about being good for a year with one drop is just wrong lol


----------



## skupples

broodro0ster said:


> I wouldn't add any more drops. 1 drop of each is enough for 1l of fluid. The strip should be wet when comparing. It looks darker in the first pic than the second and that close to PH7, so that's good.
> 
> Just add 1 drop of each product after 1 year if you don't want to refresh the fluid.


i confirm my Ph & add a drop of inhibitor whenever topping off my reservoir, and that's way more often than once a year. 

~ every 3-4 months. 

i highly recommend a probe.


----------



## farpetrad

In my first liter of distilled I put maybe 3 drips of each and after testing the ph had gone from a 7.1 to 7.13. I use https://www.amazon.com/Accuracy-Measurement-Household-Drinking-Aquarium/dp/B08197LX6H. In the 2nd liter I put 2 drops each and was 7.11. Loop took just less than the 2 liters. I was under the impression as long as you keep the ph as close to 7 your ok.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Above 6 and below 8.


----------



## skupples

farpetrad said:


> In my first liter of distilled I put maybe 3 drips of each and after testing the ph had gone from a 7.1 to 7.13. I use https://www.amazon.com/Accuracy-Measurement-Household-Drinking-Aquarium/dp/B08197LX6H. In the 2nd liter I put 2 drops each and was 7.11. Loop took just less than the 2 liters. I was under the impression as long as you keep the ph as close to 7 your ok.


correct. ~7


----------



## Astral85

Astral85 said:


> What is the expiry of Mayhems Biocide+ and Inhibitor+? I've just noticed the manufacture date on my Inhibitor+ is 12/04/18. Biocide+ is 20/03/19. Are these too old?



@Mayhem Is there any reason tech support are closing off tickets before I've even responded? I got a response to the above question which was the official shelf life is 3 year so I GUESS my bottles are OK. I was going to reply but... I guess Ian decided the question was answered?


----------



## Astral85

broodro0ster said:


> I wouldn't add any more drops. 1 drop of each is enough for 1l of fluid. The strip should be wet when comparing. It looks darker in the first pic than the second and that close to PH7, so that's good.
> 
> Just add 1 drop of each product after 1 year if you don't want to refresh the fluid.


Have you measured 1 drop to be the recommended 0.5ml?


----------



## Astral85

broodro0ster said:


> Adding a drop of both products won't do a lot expect increasing the overal concentration, but it won't change the PH balance a lot.
> If you add Biocide+, it's become more acidic (lower PH), if you add inhibitor it will become more basic (higher PH).





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> As far as I've noticed he's only got two drops of each now.
> 
> But as far as your other comment about being good for a year with one drop is just wrong lol


Seems like debate... What causes the Ph to shift in a water cooling loop anyway? @thrash are you suggesting the Biocide/Inhibitor diminishes over time? The official product page doesn't mention topping up and states a mix can last up to five years...


----------



## Avacado

@Astral85. Brother, I know you have a lot of questions, a lot of them valid, you are in danger of becoming a spaz.


----------



## Astral85

Avacado said:


> @Astral85. Brother, I know you have a lot of questions, a lot of them valid, you are in danger of becoming a spaz.


Spaz? I don't understand what's wrong, I just quoted a couple of replies from yesterday...


----------



## Shawnb99

Link from Reddit 


https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooli...urce=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

Mayhems has discontinued it Pastel coolants due to an issue.


----------



## Avacado

Shawnb99 said:


> Link from Reddit
> 
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooli...urce=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
> 
> Mayhems has discontinued it Pastel coolants due to an issue.


Good to know, Oof. I know my luck, i'll be one of those with "The issue" whatever it may be.


----------



## ThrashZone

Astral85 said:


> Seems like debate... What causes the Ph to shift in a water cooling loop anyway? @thrash are you suggesting the Biocide/Inhibitor diminishes over time? The official product page doesn't mention topping up and states a mix can last up to five years...


Hi,
Not really I'm saying you should check the ph every month or two or when you need to add more mixture to top off as skupples said.

No good comes from using colored coolant


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> Link from Reddit
> 
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooli...urce=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
> 
> Mayhems has discontinued it Pastel coolants due to an issue.


Also mentioned five hours ago in the *Facebook Mayhems' Users Group*.

*Question for @Mayhem :* what about stock sitting on the shelves of distributors like PPCS, Titan Rig, etc.? It's still showing up as available/for sale at PPCS (don't know about the others).


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> Also mentioned five hours ago in the *Facebook Mayhems' Users Group*.
> 
> *Question for @Mayhem :* what about stock sitting on the shelves of distributors like PPCS, Titan Rig, etc.? It's still showing up as available/for sale at PPCS (don't know about the others).


Ah Thanks. I don't have FB so never knew.


----------



## iamjanco

^NP, I had to look myself. I don't normally hang out on Facebook and only use it for work related reasons.


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> ^NP, I had to look myself. I don't normally hang out on Facebook and only use it for work related reasons.


Sure ya don't. I believe you... Really I do 
@Mayhem has been too absent from us since he got married.


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> Sure ya don't. I believe you... Really I do
> 
> @Mayhem has been too absent from us since he got married.


Nope, no friends to speak of (I'm really a Facebook _abuser_); and marriage can do that to a person...

:::: holds up a silver cross ::::


----------



## skupples

i mean, you COULD ignore your coolant for 5 years... or you could just grow a brain, and practice standard maintenance procedures that you'd see anywhere else in the world where closed loops are involved. 

what your loop is made of, how well you cleaned it, how hot it gets, how much light it gets, how much dust you let in by leaving the cap off... all of this, and more, dictates the effectiveness and lifespan of your coolant.

you could lie to yourself and pretend you've mastered the art of cleaning your loop, I wouldn't recommend it though. better off to just check your Ph whenever topping off your reservoir.

the longest I've ignored a loop is 4 years, running X1, and while the blocks came out clean enough to re-use, they were no where as clean as blocks in loops I run maintenance on multiple times a year. 

you owe it to yourself to be extra cautious if you're running nickel. otherwise, it's nowhere as much of a big deal. hard to see a few micron missing from copper.


----------



## Avacado

I mean I really hope people have enough common sense to vigorously shake the pastels to ensure proper mixing before blindly adding it too their loop and wondering why it separated.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> how much light it gets


People always overlook how much light can affect their loop. Growths need light to grow.


----------



## skupples

Avacado said:


> I mean I really hope people have enough common sense to vigorously shake the pastels to ensure proper mixing before blindly adding it too their loop and wondering why it separated.


yeah, it kinda reads to me that Mick just got tired of dealing with the issues.

people's reaction to coolant in this hobby is weird, on all sides. The unwillingness to spend a few extra dollars to protect the thousands of dollars you put into your loop. 

OR - using super complex additives without reading directions/doing proper cleaning first, etc. 

personally, I've never once used dyes/nano-particles, as I don't build show-rigs, and want my stuff to last as long as humanly possible in the closest state to new as possible, with as little impact on cooling potential as possible, while still keeping everything abundantly protected from corrosion, acid, bio, etc.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
No pain no gain 

Known issues list would help others understand mayhems products are not perfect as the nice pretty stories on bottles suggest.


----------



## Mayhem

Astral85 said:


> @Mayhem Is there any reason tech support are closing off tickets before I've even responded? I got a response to the above question which was the official shelf life is 3 year so I GUESS my bottles are OK. I was going to reply but... I guess Ian decided the question was answered?


Not that I'm aware, tech is run out of house atm by ian, he's normally spot on. Due to coivd I'm the only one in work.

If he answers a question he may close it off afterwards.


----------



## Mayhem

iamjanco said:


> Also mentioned five hours ago in the *Facebook Mayhems' Users Group*.
> 
> *Question for @Mayhem :* what about stock sitting on the shelves of distributors like PPCS, Titan Rig, etc.? It's still showing up as available/for sale at PPCS (don't know about the others).


lol 1 person working in mayhems me ... trying to resolve the issues and find the problem while doing everything else isn't easy. trying to track down whats caused it, who may have it, what beaches have it ect ect. Atm its a random issue but enough for me to pull it from our stocks (not going to mess around). So far it just seems to be the last batches.

Once i know more ill post but its all up on my FB page. For now, i have EOL pastel until its resolved.

Also doesn't help I got taken out by 1.2 tonnes of coolant that fell on me yesterday (pallet collapsed). ...


----------



## Astral85

Mayhem said:


> Not that I'm aware, tech is run out of house atm by ian, he's normally spot on. Due to coivd I'm the only one in work.
> 
> If he answers a question he may close it off afterwards.


Fair enough.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> Also doesn't help I got taken out by 1.2 tonnes of coolant that fell on me yesterday (pallet collapsed). ...



I guess that’s one way to take a shower at work lol


----------



## Astral85

We're all screwed if the main worker gets taken out. Sounds like Mayhem should bring in a hand.


----------



## iamjanco

Mayhem said:


> lol 1 person working in mayhems me ... trying to resolve the issues and find the problem while doing everything else isn't easy. trying to track down whats caused it, who may have it, what beaches have it ect ect. Atm its a random issue but enough for me to pull it from our stocks (not going to mess around). So far it just seems to be the last batches.
> 
> Once i know more ill post but its all up on my FB page. For now, i have EOL pastel until its resolved.
> 
> Also doesn't help I got taken out by 1.2 tonnes of coolant that fell on me yesterday (pallet collapsed). ...


ah, gotcha. Just figured I'd ask for the benefit of the others. I only use the clear stuff myself.

Stay dry


----------



## kevindd992002

Shawnb99 said:


> People always overlook how much light can affect their loop. Growths need light to grow.


Does UV light strips also promote growth?



Mayhem said:


> lol 1 person working in mayhems me ... trying to resolve the issues and find the problem while doing everything else isn't easy. trying to track down whats caused it, who may have it, what beaches have it ect ect. Atm its a random issue but enough for me to pull it from our stocks (not going to mess around). So far it just seems to be the last batches.
> 
> Once i know more ill post but its all up on my FB page. For now, i have EOL pastel until its resolved.
> 
> Also doesn't help I got taken out by 1.2 tonnes of coolant that fell on me yesterday (pallet collapsed). ...


Any clues as to what the issue really is? I've been planning to change the Pastel coolant on my system with coolant from bottles that I have from a year ago and I was hoping those are not affected.


----------



## Shawnb99

kevindd992002 said:


> Does UV light strips also promote growth?



It should actually kill it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Shawnb99 said:


> kevindd992002 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does UV light strips also promote growth?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should actually kill it.
Click to expand...

Eh....maybe. it's UV-C that is actually antibacterial/antiviral. And that also happens to be very dangerous to your eyes and skin, so these UV LEDs are not operating in that range of UV.


----------



## Shawnb99

ciarlatano said:


> Eh....maybe. it's UV-C that is actually antibacterial/antiviral. And that also happens to be very dangerous to your eyes and skin, so these UV LEDs are not operating in that range of UV.



My bad then. I just google lead me wrong [emoji3525]


----------



## kevindd992002

ciarlatano said:


> Eh....maybe. it's UV-C that is actually antibacterial/antiviral. And that also happens to be very dangerous to your eyes and skin, so these UV LEDs are not operating in that range of UV.


I see. It won't kill bacteria/virus but will it promote growth? Or is it just neutral and do nothing except for potentially "burning" plastic tubing?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Mayhem

kevindd992002 said:


> Does UV light strips also promote growth?
> 
> 
> 
> Any clues as to what the issue really is? I've been planning to change the Pastel coolant on my system with coolant from bottles that I have from a year ago and I was hoping those are not affected.


Nothing atm. trying to forfill other orders for larger companies and not had time to look into it fully. ATM as said staff are furlong this has left me with no time whats so ever. Plus right at this moment in time in a canny bit of pain down my right-hand side. (p.s this is not an excuse just how things stand right at this moment in time and id rather be honest with everyone).


----------



## ciarlatano

kevindd992002 said:


> I see. It won't kill bacteria/virus but will it promote growth? Or is it just neutral and do nothing except for potentially "burning" plastic tubing?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


No idea. On one hand it's light, so one would assume yes. On the other hand it is supposedly UV....but who knows at what part of the spectrum?


----------



## Shawnb99

kevindd992002 said:


> I see. It won't kill bacteria/virus but will it promote growth? Or is it just neutral and do nothing except for potentially "burning" plastic tubing?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


 @Mayhem should be able to educate us on this. I would assume they know everything there is to know about fluids and what causes growth or not. 

That is a good question though. Wonder if other RGB or LED's cause cause growth. Most info I can find just mentions sunlight and not what part of the spectrum.


----------



## ciarlatano

Shawnb99 said:


> @Mayhem should be able to educate us on this. I would assume they know everything there is to know about fluids and what causes growth or not.
> 
> That is a good question though. Wonder if other RGB or LED's cause cause growth. Most info I can find just mentions sunlight and not what part of the spectrum.


https://www.hortidaily.com/article/9164971/a-guide-to-grow-light-spectrum/

The problem is.....what are these cheap purple lights putting out?


----------



## skupples

UV would kill bio, not promote it. (if your UV cathodes are even strong enough to do anything at all) 

not to mention, most of us are using LEDs n such now, no the old school cathode UV tube.


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> UV would kill bio, not promote it. (if your UV cathodes are even strong enough to do anything at all)
> 
> not to mention, most of us are using LEDs n such now, no the old school cathode UV tube.


The thing is, many of these LEDs are nothing more than purple lights, and don't have any appreciable UV output. At that point, it's not UV, it's just a purple colored light.

So, the problem with the question is you need to know what light specifically is being referenced, and what the actual output of that light is.

And I feel like it's 2010 all over again talking about UV.....


----------



## skupples

thanks for further iterating on that 


you would probably just wanna buy an actual HVAC UV bulb, if you really wanted to go for the effect.

and i'm gonna guess those are about as expensive as they've ever been, right now. This very instant. COVID19 has been a boon for any HVAC company with an existing bulb hustle game going. (i'd assume that's most of them these days, and yes they do actually work, if you get enough of them going. You're better off doing it yourself if you have some general know how. We did the before & after tests in our last house & it's legit.)


----------



## Mayhem

ciarlatano said:


> https://www.hortidaily.com/article/9164971/a-guide-to-grow-light-spectrum/
> 
> The problem is.....what are these cheap purple lights putting out?


There is UV A,B and C

UV A = Sun light = promotes growth in a system. = Bad (some UV cheap Chinese leds do give off a tiny , tiny amount of UV-A light (i cannot go into to much detail but i have tested the spectral wave length of many UV Leds and yes some are not good). All i can say is just because some thing is expensive buy a big name maker doesn't make it good.

UV-B = Its not to bad and doesn't promote growth 

UV-C = Germicide Kills off alga by imploding the alga at a Cell level, this is dangerous. Also can damage Plastic, Coolants and many other things. Don't mess with this type of UV and is part of our system for water cleansing. DO NOT LOOK AT UV-C IT CAN BLIND YOU.

UV-C LEDs are rated as 275 nm (270 - 280 nm) 

When dealing with leds all i can say its a rabbit hole.


----------



## skupples

^^ the better HVAC bulb kits come with chinese raybans


----------



## Mayhem

skupples said:


> ^^ the better HVAC bulb kits come with chinese raybans


oh if I could swear on here I would do lol.


----------



## ezveedub

I have a UV-C sterilizer for aquatic use and this is the UV that gets rid and stops biological growth. As Mayhems stated, you don't want exposure to this type. The unit I have is a black sealed container with the bulb inserted inside a spiral clear tube for water to double pass around it and just has a tiny glow lens so you can see the bulb is operational.


----------



## Shawnb99

ezveedub said:


> I have a UV-C sterilizer for aquatic use and this is the UV that gets rid and stops biological growth. As Mayhems stated, you don't want exposure to this type. The unit I have is a black sealed container with the bulb inserted inside a spiral clear tube for water to double pass around it and just has a tiny glow lens so you can see the bulb is operational.


Wonder why no one has converted one of those for WC use. Hmmm something like this could work

https://www.amazon.ca/HQUA-OWS-6-Ul...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Might have to look into this more.

At least till @Mayhem comes out with the premix that lasts a lifetime


----------



## Squashie

Planning to build a "showcase" system with big wow-factor, is Aurora still a thing?


----------



## Mordorr

Just to confirm:

X1 Clear is out of equation problem, yes?

Using it plus 2 strips of Phantek`s Aura leds...(at blue due X1 be clear).


----------



## skupples

Mordorr said:


> Just to confirm:
> 
> X1 Clear is out of equation problem, yes?
> 
> Using it plus 2 strips of Phantek`s Aura leds...(at blue due X1 be clear).


only problem with X1 is it can sometimes color shift, and too much makes clear soft tube turn cloudy faster.


----------



## Mayhem

Shawnb99 said:


> Wonder why no one has converted one of those for WC use. Hmmm something like this could work
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/HQUA-OWS-6-Ul...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
> 
> Might have to look into this more.
> 
> At least till @Mayhem comes out with the premix that lasts a lifetime


Because it also destroys plastic as well. We have looked at having in our system however they also generate a lot of heat and in an enclosed system and i really do mean create a lot of heat. They also kill off inhibitor so pretty much counterproductive.

XTR is on hold due to coivd. The r&d place we work with making it has dedicated themself to a project working with the government. Same with fixing pastel issues we've seen, again we cannot get access to the equipment we need to check it and see what happening hence the reason we've stopped selling it for now. It could possibly be the end of the line for all of this stuff for now. All except XT-1 and X1.


----------



## Mordorr

skupples said:


> only problem with X1 is it can sometimes color shift, and too much makes clear soft tube turn cloudy faster.





IN my case became pink maybe some rests of previous G12....even so, i should know that before buy it......when finish all 5L, i will return to my old good G12 car liquid.:Snorkle:


----------



## kevindd992002

@Mayhem

For the Pastel issue, why would you consider a certain product in its EOL stage and then after you solve the issue you bring it back? I reckon that's not how EOL works. You should probably change that term to avoid sending the wrong message. Or do you really mean that the Pastel lines will never come back?


----------



## Avacado

kevindd992002 said:


> @Mayhem
> 
> For the Pastel issue, why would you consider a certain product in its EOL stage and then after you solve the issue you bring it back? I reckon that's not how EOL works. You should probably change that term to avoid sending the wrong message. Or do you really mean that the Pastel lines will never come back?


Good point, my take was THAT particular blend was EOL, not the entire line.


----------



## war4peace

I will be blunt with this one: The only thing I am using literally everywhere is Mayhems Pastel. White, red and Black. If it goes EOL, I will be left with no option, and I am not interested in XT-1 or X1.
Luckily I have enough stash to last me a few more years, but after that... I don't know.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Recall.


----------



## skupples

war4peace said:


> I will be blunt with this one: The only thing I am using literally everywhere is Mayhems Pastel. White, red and Black. If it goes EOL, I will be left with no option, and I am not interested in XT-1 or X1.
> Luckily I have enough stash to last me a few more years, but after that... I don't know.


sounds hopefully temporary. putting a halt on it until they can get back to the lab & figure out ***ark is going on.


----------



## Mayhem

https://www.instagram.com/p/CA3rReXgtYx/?igshid=pv19tbcys9nr

Just a update video.


----------



## Mayhem

Joe from Gadget joe got our glass scoring system and these are his thoughts and usage. 

https://youtu.be/emeZwmEfoI0


----------



## Astral85

Mayhems ultra clear tubing looking good. I installed one of EK's new Kinetic pumps this past weekend. Very happy with how things look.


----------



## Avacado

Astral85 said:


> Mayhems ultra clear tubing looking good. I installed one of EK's new Kinetic pumps this past weekend. Very happy with how things look.


Looks great man, I still think you should add an extender off that front rad to clean up the return to res tube run. There is a 30mm EK variant but I cant find it, similar to these https://www.amazon.com/Touchaqua-Fe...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=


----------



## skupples

looks good.


----------



## Astral85

Avacado said:


> Looks great man, I still think you should add an extender off that front rad to clean up the return to res tube run. There is a 30mm EK variant but I cant find it, similar to these https://www.amazon.com/Touchaqua-Fe...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=


The front rad proved to be really challenging because I wanted the ports facing down for it to drain better and it also needed to include the drain valve being the lowest point in the loop. The problem I encountered was with the pump bracket obstructing the rad ports. The photo best demonstrates how I had to kind of tee out to work around the bracket... I've been thinking of alternative ways to do do my loop but am struggling. Mostly I think because of the limited space around the pump/res and it's IN/OUT ports.


----------



## Undesirable

Astral85 said:


> The front rad proved to be really challenging because I wanted the ports facing down for it to drain better and it also needed to include the drain valve being the lowest point in the loop. The problem I encountered was with the pump bracket obstructing the rad ports. The photo best demonstrates how I had to kind of tee out to work around the bracket... I've been thinking of alternative ways to do do my loop but am struggling. Mostly I think because of the limited space around the pump/res and it's IN/OUT ports.


You can still drain pretty easily if the rad is the other way round, just cap things off that gravity can't empty out with G1/4 plugs, pull the tubing out of ports that are partially drained, point the tubing into a container, tilt the case around... don't have more than one port open at a time though . Connect a ball valve to one of the ports of the front radiator, plug the other one off, turn the case upside down without any other ports open and turn the valve. Or just cap off the entire front rad once you've emptied both tubes leading to it, pull it out of the case and empty. Just some ideas there.

If you can't empty a certain section out, just hold a (large enough) container under your GPU waterblock port or whichever is lowest in the loop and slowly unscrew the plug or fitting. Not as clean as a ball valve but erm... well actually, you can fit a ball valve to the underside of your GPU block if you use a 45° or 90° fitting followed by an extender then the ball valve as long as there's a free port under there.


----------



## kevindd992002

It's been a while since I first filled my firsr watercooling loop (used Blitz parts 1 and 2 back then) and now it's time to refill it with a fresh Pastel coolant from the old bottles that I have. Can you guys remind me the whole process again? So is it just as simple as draining the loop of the old coolant, rinsing it with distilled water, rinsing it with Blitz part 2 solution for 24 hours, and then rinsing again with distilled water, and finally filling back with the new coolant?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawnb99

kevindd992002 said:


> It's been a while since I first filled my firsr watercooling loop (used Blitz parts 1 and 2 back then) and now it's time to refill it with a fresh Pastel coolant from the old bottles that I have. Can you guys remind me the whole process again? So is it just as simple as draining the loop of the old coolant, rinsing it with distilled water, rinsing it with Blitz part 2 solution for 24 hours, and then rinsing again with distilled water, and finally filling back with the new coolant?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk



Yep that’s about it. Check the PH balance after the final rinsing


----------



## Astral85

Three half hour rinse and drains with distilled water after the 18-24 hours Blitz part 1. I thought Blitz part 1 was one off solution for cleaning new rads though? Is it useful for cleaning an old system?


----------



## Shawnb99

Astral85 said:


> Three half hour rinse and drains with distilled water after the 18-24 hours Blitz part 1. I thought Blitz part 1 was one off solution for cleaning new rads though? Is it useful for cleaning an old system?



Part 1 is just for the radiators. You shouldn’t have to clean them more then once. 
Part 2 is for the whole system


----------



## kevindd992002

Shawnb99 said:


> Yep that’s about it. Check the PH balance after the final rinsing


I see. After the final rinse, if the PH is still not neutral, would it need another rinse? Would half hour distilled water rinses be just fine?

And are the litmus test papers included in the cleaning kit still accurate even after around 1.5 yrs?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Avacado

kevindd992002 said:


> I see. After the final rinse, if the PH is still not neutral, would it need another rinse? Would half hour distilled water rinses be just fine?
> 
> And are the litmus test papers included in the cleaning kit still accurate even after around 1.5 yrs?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


As long as they are dry, they will still function as intended. Usually about 1 hour on each distilled run is recommended.


----------



## Shawnb99

kevindd992002 said:


> I see. After the final rinse, if the PH is still not neutral, would it need another rinse? Would half hour distilled water rinses be just fine?
> 
> And are the litmus test papers included in the cleaning kit still accurate even after around 1.5 yrs?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


Get a digital one and never worry again


----------



## kevindd992002

Avacado said:


> As long as they are dry, they will still function as intended. Usually about 1 hour on each distilled run is recommended.


How many distilled runs before and after the blitz part 2 in general? I hate myself for forgetting how I did it last year.


Shawnb99 said:


> Get a digital one and never worry again


That's what I thought. Are they hard to calibrate though?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawnb99

kevindd992002 said:


> How many distilled runs before and after the blitz part 2 in general? I hate myself for forgetting how I did it last year.That's what I thought. Are they hard to calibrate though?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


Nah should be easy. The come with everything needed to calibrate.


----------



## skupples

needs more cowbell.


----------



## Avacado

kevindd992002 said:


> How many distilled runs before and after the blitz part 2 in general? I hate myself for forgetting how I did it last year.That's what I thought. Are they hard to calibrate though?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


In the manual that comes with part 2 it specifies 3 x distilled 1 hour rinses after the part 2. So 4 fills and drains, then add your coolant of choice.


----------



## Avacado

skupples said:


> needs more cowbell.


----------



## iamjanco

Justin Beaver? I think I just threw up a little bit in my mouth.


----------



## skupples

needs less cowbell.


----------



## kevindd992002

In general, do you guys throw away leftover mixed part1/part2 solutions? I don't think they will still be usable if left in a mineral watter bottle for a few years, do they? 

As for the concentrates that are left in their hermetically-sealed bottles under the sink, how long do those last for?


----------



## farpetrad

I threw away my part 1 and then was told it could be used again a few times, part 2 I wouldn't keep but I will let others chime in on that.


----------



## kevindd992002

farpetrad said:


> I threw away my part 1 and then was told it could be used again a few times, part 2 I wouldn't keep but I will let others chime in on that.


I read somewhere that both can be used again as long as they are stored properly. I remember @Mayhem telling me that keeping them under the sink (which I did way back 2018) was fine to preserve their life.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## kevindd992002

@Mayhem

So I decided to go overboard a bit and made sure I flush my loop until the distilled water is clear BEFORE I clean it with part 2. And surprisingly, my Mayhems Ultra Clear tubing were greenish cloudy as you can see in the pic attached (see the distilled water in the reservoir is clear already).

Is this plasticizer or really expected because of how Pastel works? And will the part 2 make the tubings clear again? I remember you telling everyone that the Ultra Clear tubing material that you have is plasticizer-free as you use a different material that no one uses.


----------



## Avacado

kevindd992002 said:


> @Mayhem
> 
> So I decided to go overboard a bit and made sure I flush my loop until the distilled water is clear BEFORE I clean it with part 2. And surprisingly, my Mayhems Ultra Clear tubing were greenish cloudy as you can see in the pic attached (see the distilled water in the reservoir is clear already).
> 
> Is this plasticizer or really expected because of how Pastel works? And will the part 2 make the tubings clear again? I remember you telling everyone that the Ultra Clear tubing material that you have is plasticizer-free as you use a different material that no one uses.


Usually green is not a plasticizer color. Soft tubing, no matter how highly it comes rated is always porous. Algae, plasticizer, oxidation, you name it. It's just luck of the draw. Honestly, I would just run new tubing, you have the measurements and soft tubing is still dirt cheap.


----------



## war4peace

kevindd992002 said:


> @Mayhem
> Is this plasticizer or really expected because of how Pastel works?


It's not how Pastel works. I've had White Pastel in my main PC for ages, and soft tubing turned a bit yellowish, but you can only see it when placed next to new tube. After over one year of usage 24/7.


----------



## kevindd992002

Avacado said:


> Usually green is not a plasticizer color. Soft tubing, no matter how highly it comes rated is always porous. Algae, plasticizer, oxidation, you name it. It's just luck of the draw. Honestly, I would just run new tubing, you have the measurements and soft tubing is still dirt cheap.


Right. That's what I thought. I mean, I have extra ultra clear tubing here but I still went ahead with the part 2 just a few minutes ago to see if it does something.

Would replacing with a new tubing have any advantages though? In terms of performance and aesthetics, that is. I mean, the coolant that I'll be using will be the same green color anyway.


war4peace said:


> It's not how Pastel works. I've had White Pastel in my main PC for ages, and soft tubing turned a bit yellowish, but you can only see it when placed next to new tube. After over one year of usage 24/7.


Is yours anything near the color in my pic though? Another thing is that I use UV lights. Could these cloudy tubings be an effect of that too?

Is this a good reason to switch over to rigid tubing? This is my first watercooling loop and I' not confident with bending hard tubing and all but if it'a inevitable then I might consider it.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Avacado

kevindd992002 said:


> Right. That's what I thought. I mean, I have extra ultra clear tubing here but I still went ahead with the part 2 just a few minutes ago to see if it does something.
> 
> Would replacing with a new tubing have any advantages though? In terms of performance and aesthetics, that is. I mean, the coolant that I'll be using will be the same green color anyway.Is yours anything near the color in my pic though? Another thing is that I use UV lights. Could these cloudy tubings be an effect of that too?
> 
> Is this a good reason to switch over to rigid tubing? This is my first watercooling loop and I' not confident with bending hard tubing and all but if it'a inevitable then I might consider it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


The advantages would be two fold as you stated, obviously looks, knowing it is fresh and more importantly, you can't know what residue is entirely collected on the inside of your tubing, what if some of it WERE algae? Why risk it if you have the tube? Seems to me that you are willing to do 5 rounds of fill/drain to be efficient, but somehow changing the tubing was not deemed efficient or needed, just interesting to me.

Hard line is easy if you have OCD and are moderately patient. We can help you through that too. Luckily for you PETG/Acrylic are cheap as well, you can buy an enormous amount to practice with and not break the bank. The bending kit is a bit pricey, but you wont regret it. I honestly use tube cutters now and you could buy single Mandrels if money was an issue. 

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-...thermaltake+bending+kit&qid=1592062196&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-U...1&keywords=tube+cutter&qid=1592062211&sr=8-32


----------



## kevindd992002

Avacado said:


> The advantages would be two fold as you stated, obviously looks, knowing it is fresh and more importantly, you can't know what residue is entirely collected on the inside of your tubing, what if some of it WERE algae? Why risk it if you have the tube? Seems to me that you are willing to do 5 rounds of fill/drain to be efficient, but somehow changing the tubing was not deemed efficient or needed, just interesting to me.
> 
> Hard line is easy if you have OCD and are moderately patient. We can help you through that too. Luckily for you PETG/Acrylic are cheap as well, you can buy an enormous amount to practice with and not break the bank. The bending kit is a bit pricey, but you wont regret it. I honestly use tube cutters now and you could buy single Mandrels if money was an issue.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-...thermaltake+bending+kit&qid=1592062196&sr=8-2
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-U...1&keywords=tube+cutter&qid=1592062211&sr=8-32


Ok, that makes sense. I wasn't really against replacing the tubes. It's just that when you posted about it it was right after I put the part 2 in the loop and thought I should've held off until I knew more about what I was going into. But oh well, I guess I'll have to finish this part 2 run and change the tubings afterwards.

Yes, I definitely have OCD and can exert moderate patient. I just think it's inevitable for me to transition to hard line and I'm starting to read upon it. For beginners though, would you recommend PETG as it's easier to handle and all? And if I understand it correctly, it's better to buy straight tubes as opposed to pre-bent ones, right?

I use something similar to that PrimoChill Universal Tube Cutter (but this one: https://modmymods.com/barrow-pvc-tubing-rubber-pipe-cutter-prg-v1.html). Are you saying what I have would work with PETG too? What do single Mandrels have compared to that off the ones you get from the kit you've linked?


----------



## Avacado

kevindd992002 said:


> Ok, that makes sense. I wasn't really against replacing the tubes. It's just that when you posted about it it was right after I put the part 2 in the loop and thought I should've held off until I knew more about what I was going into. But oh well, I guess I'll have to finish this part 2 run and change the tubings afterwards.
> 
> Yes, I definitely have OCD and can exert moderate patient. I just think it's inevitable for me to transition to hard line and I'm starting to read upon it. For beginners though, would you recommend PETG as it's easier to handle and all? And if I understand it correctly, it's better to buy straight tubes as opposed to pre-bent ones, right?
> 
> I use something similar to that PrimoChill Universal Tube Cutter (but this one: https://modmymods.com/barrow-pvc-tubing-rubber-pipe-cutter-prg-v1.html). Are you saying what I have would work with PETG too? What do single Mandrels have compared to that off the ones you get from the kit you've linked?


Personally, yes PETG is the easiest to work with, it has a slightly less heat up time and is more forgiving with cuts. You can usually buy the PETG in either 1000mm or 500mm, It depends on how long the tube runs will be in your rig. Doing a 90 degree bend with a mandrel is pretty much as easy as it gets. Practice, find the points when the tubing become pliable and noodle like and then you are good to bend. If your like me, after starting and learning it, you will kick yourself in the ass for not doing it sooner. It isn't that hard.


----------



## kevindd992002

Avacado said:


> Personally, yes PETG is the easiest to work with, it has a slightly less heat up time and is more forgiving with cuts. You can usually buy the PETG in either 1000mm or 500mm, It depends on how long the tube runs will be in your rig. Doing a 90 degree bend with a mandrel is pretty much as easy as it gets. Practice, find the points when the tubing become pliable and noodle like and then you are good to bend. If your like me, after starting and learning it, you will kick yourself in the ass for not doing it sooner. It isn't that hard.


Interesting and exciting. Are Barrow tubings and hardline fittings fine? I use all Barrow for my current compression fittings and never had leaks so I do trust the brand but am not sure how it'a applicable to hardlines.

Also, if I wanted to go clear liquid this time, would it be the XT1 or the X1?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Avacado

kevindd992002 said:


> Interesting and exciting. Are Barrow tubings and hardline fittings fine? I use all Barrow for my current compression fittings and never had leaks so I do trust the brand but am not sure how it'a applicable to hardlines.
> 
> Also, if I wanted to go clear liquid this time, would it be the XT1 or the X1?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


Do me a favor, create a separate thread for this moving forward so we stop pirating the Mayhems thread and tag me, I'll help you with all that.


----------



## kevindd992002

Avacado said:


> Do me a favor, create a separate thread for this moving forward so we stop pirating the Mayhems thread and tag me, I'll help you with all that.


Yeah, I was getting to that. Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## ciarlatano

Avacado said:


> Do me a favor, create a separate thread for this moving forward so we stop pirating the Mayhems thread and tag me, I'll help you with all that.


Thank you....thank you.....thank you.......


----------



## war4peace

kevindd992002 said:


> Is yours anything near the color in my pic though? Another thing is that I use UV lights. Could these cloudy tubings be an effect of that too?
> Is this a good reason to switch over to rigid tubing? This is my first watercooling loop and I' not confident with bending hard tubing and all but if it'a inevitable then I might consider it.


1. No, nowhere near that color. I use Pastel White in one build and Pastel red in another, also used Pastel Black in the past but only for a couple months, didn't like its tints in soft tubing. Pastel white build, going strong with over 2 years under its belt, had its tubing changed over a year ago (actually it was in November 2018 so 19 months ago). Before that it had been running for almost a year in the same build. When i changed tubing, the tubes had a slightly yellowish tint on them, but the liquid itself was pristine so i just dumped it back into the build and topped off what was lost through bleeding the loop and whatnot.
2. No UV lights, never liked them, but I have Addressable RGB using Aquacomputer ecosystem. Generally running red and white illumination. I have tested rainbow and yellow briefly but went back to white/red effects.
3. Hard tubing is easy, look up Mayhems glass cutting device and it's even easier with that one. He really made glass tubing available for the masses.


----------



## kevindd992002

Before Part 2 cleaning:










After Part 2 cleaning:










Not much of a change really.


----------



## skupples

looks good!


----------



## kevindd992002

skupples said:


> looks good!


What do you mean? Those tubes look horribly cloudy considering that there's no liquid in them in the after pic.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawnb99

kevindd992002 said:


> What do you mean? Those tubes look horribly cloudy considering that there's no liquid in them in the after pic.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


Welcome to "clear" tubing. Though they shouldn't be that bad. Run some Blitz part 2 through your loop that should clean most of that out

The never ending cloudyness is making me want to go hard tubing as well or least back to colored


----------



## kevindd992002

Shawnb99 said:


> Welcome to "clear" tubing. Though they shouldn't be that bad. Run some Blitz part 2 through your loop that should clean most of that out


If you read my post with the pics again, the bottom pic is the "after part 2 cleaning". So I'm not sure why these are this bad. I disassembled my loop anyway and tried to see what nasty substance is there on those soft tubings. I used q-tips and nothing is sticking to them. It's as if the color degradation is too "fused" to the tubes themselves.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Avacado

kevindd992002 said:


> If you read my post with the pics again, the bottom pic is the "after part 2 cleaning". So I'm not sure why these are this bad. I disassembled my loop anyway and tried to see what nasty substance is there on those soft tubings. I used q-tips and nothing is sticking to them. It's as if the color degradation is too "fused" to the tubes themselves.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


What did you expect? This is why we did the alternate thread to address this going forward. I stated that soft tubing is very porous and this is common staining. You don't want it, then you need to go hard tubing. You mentioned that you were going to go with PETG and I support that, You won't regret it and you won't have to worry about that staining anymore.


----------



## skupples

i kno this isn't the place, but this EX XRES 140 pump/res combo is bunk due to the cap not having a proper thread, leading to being unable to use a dip tip (prevents back flow) 

this loop is yuge, no back flow stopper + small res = no thanks. large tubes aren't just for a e s t h e t i c. it drastically improves QOL when filling & purging.


----------



## kevindd992002

Avacado said:


> What did you expect? This is why we did the alternate thread to address this going forward. I stated that soft tubing is very porous and this is common staining. You don't want it, then you need to go hard tubing. You mentioned that you were going to go with PETG and I support that, You won't regret it and you won't have to worry about that staining anymore.


Right. I wasn't really expecting anything. At the time we talked about switching to hard tubing, I had the part 2 running in the system already so I just thought posting the results after the 24 hours run is warranted in this thread.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Avacado

kevindd992002 said:


> Right. I wasn't really expecting anything. At the time we talked about switching to hard tubing, I had the part 2 running in the system already so I just thought posting the results after the 24 hours run is warranted in this thread.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


Fair enough. Take the leap, you won't regret it.


----------



## jura11

@kevindd992002

If you don't want to switch to acrylic or PETG tubing then I would recommend use Tygon A-60-G or EK ZMT or Watercool EPDM tubing

I'm using that on my build and no issues, friend who is living in Spain as well running or using EK ZMT tubing and no issues

Yours current Barrow 16/10mm I have used on several occasions and loops like with EPDM or EK ZMT tubing and no issues, yes they can be hard to close but they will not leak or they will not be pushed out of barb or fitting

EPDM or Tygon A-60-G or EK ZMT can be much cheaper option than going full with hardline tubing and new fittings etc plus I prefer look of the this tubing 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## skupples

what happened to that "PETG doesn't age well" testing people did? I can't seem to find it. did I dream it? 

thought i remembered JayZTwoShills specifically going over how his very first PETG system did some weird stuff after awhile.


----------



## kevindd992002

jura11 said:


> @kevindd992002
> 
> If you don't want to switch to acrylic or PETG tubing then I would recommend use Tygon A-60-G or EK ZMT or Watercool EPDM tubing
> 
> I'm using that on my build and no issues, friend who is living in Spain as well running or using EK ZMT tubing and no issues
> 
> Yours current Barrow 16/10mm I have used on several occasions and loops like with EPDM or EK ZMT tubing and no issues, yes they can be hard to close but they will not leak or they will not be pushed out of barb or fitting
> 
> EPDM or Tygon A-60-G or EK ZMT can be much cheaper option than going full with hardline tubing and new fittings etc plus I prefer look of the this tubing
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


I do want to switch to hard tubing, badly. I just need to research more as I did when I first got into soft tubing watercooling.


----------



## broodro0ster

skupples said:


> what happened to that "PETG doesn't age well" testing people did? I can't seem to find it. did I dream it?
> 
> thought i remembered JayZTwoShills specifically going over how his very first PETG system did some weird stuff after awhile.


I'm running the same PETG tubing now for about 20 months now and no issues with it. I'm running Mayhems Pastel Blue in it since day 1.
I dissassembled my loop during the quarantine to add a different reservoir and nothing was stained or bad. I had to 2 new bends for the new res and you can't tell the difference between the new tubing and the old tubing that was in my loop.

So I don't experience any issues with PETG. My loop temps are usually 32-35°C.


----------



## war4peace

You might want to go glass directly, especially with Mayhems glass cutting gizmo which is awesome.


----------



## Avacado

war4peace said:


> You might want to go glass directly, especially with Mayhems glass cutting gizmo which is awesome.


Why would you recommend that for a hardline beginner? Thats like saying a 15 year old should get a Maclaren for his first car, the difficulty and margin of error would be extremely high and could discourage him for achieving a successful build the first try.

Unless you have experience with a glass hardline run and are able to guide him through it, you shouldn't advise a more complicated setup to a beginner.


----------



## skupples

hmm...

serious question - 

would tubing that's been used for 2+ years excrete less plastic than brand new identical tubing? (LRTADV)


----------



## Avacado

skupples said:


> hmm...
> 
> serious question -
> 
> would tubing that's been used for 2+ years excrete less plastic than brand new identical tubing? (LRTADV)


Don't know Skupps, all I could find was this: "PETG's damage resistance is far higher than that of acrylic, to the point that it rivals the impact resistance of polycarbonate. However, PETG fabricates easily, making it an easy material for both practitioners and professional fabricators."

I could only assume that to mean it probably wouldn't leach that much.

Source:https://www.acmeplastics.com/what-is-petg


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Glass or what ever if you use fitting for turns it doesn't really matter what tubing is used because there isn't any bending involved.


----------



## Avacado

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Glass or what ever if you use fitting for turns it doesn't really matter what tubing is used because there isn't any bending involved.


Sure, point being why recommend a setup that you yourself haven't tried. What about practice in proper measurements? The pressure placed against a run of glass being pressed on by a 1mm too long of a run? Would it shatter? Should it fit snugly on the fitting hole itself? Would that lead to breaking? How is he going to actually cut the tubing? The Mayhems glass cutter is a design, I haven't seen the release yet.

I myself could not recommend trying something that I have no experience in, reason being I would have no way to help someone with recommendations if they get stuck in said project.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Get some experience same deal starting with any product just a different search term


----------



## Avacado

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Get some experience same deal starting with any product just a different search term


Oh Thrash c'mon. Is that why there are so many glass hardline build logs here? It's not the same and you know it.


----------



## ThrashZone

Avacado said:


> Oh Thrash c'mon. Is that why there are so many glass hardline build logs here? It's not the same and you know it.


Hi,
lol yeah I'm just waiting for my new z490 apex to show up today :wheee:


----------



## war4peace

Avacado said:


> Why would you recommend that for a hardline beginner? Thats like saying a 15 year old should get a Maclaren for his first car, the difficulty and margin of error would be extremely high and could discourage him for achieving a successful build the first try.
> 
> Unless you have experience with a glass hardline run and are able to guide him through it, you shouldn't advise a more complicated setup to a beginner.





Avacado said:


> Sure, point being why recommend a setup that you yourself haven't tried. What about practice in proper measurements? The pressure placed against a run of glass being pressed on by a 1mm too long of a run? Would it shatter? Should it fit snugly on the fitting hole itself? Would that lead to breaking? How is he going to actually cut the tubing? The Mayhems glass cutter is a design, I haven't seen the release yet.
> 
> I myself could not recommend trying something that I have no experience in, reason being I would have no way to help someone with recommendations if they get stuck in said project.


Whoa there, hold yer horses, take a chill pill.
Have you even seen Mayhems Glass cutting kit? It's for sale. 
Here's a video review:






It makes glass cutting _easier_ than PETG. Mayhems also sells bent and straight glass tube as well. If you know how to measure length, the rest is easy. With that kit, glass tubing is pushed to #2 easiest watercooling tubing implementation, after soft tubing, and above PETG, especially if you want bends as well. I found it more difficult to heat and bend PETG at exactly 90 degrees than cutting glass using Mayhems kit. As a matter of fact I have ordered the kit and an assortment of tubing from them, waiting for delivery. A local shop has the kit already for demo purposes and I played with it for half an hour, it's really easy to measure and snap. 

Maybe others are more reluctant to try something new, I for one welcome this solution and can only recommend it.


----------



## Avacado

war4peace said:


> Whoa there, hold yer horses, take a chill pill.
> Have you even seen Mayhems Glass cutting kit? It's for sale.
> Here's a video review:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emeZwmEfoI0
> 
> It makes glass cutting _easier_ than PETG. Mayhems also sells bent and straight glass tube as well. If you know how to measure length, the rest is easy. With that kit, glass tubing is pushed to #2 easiest watercooling tubing implementation, after soft tubing, and above PETG, especially if you want bends as well. I found it more difficult to heat and bend PETG at exactly 90 degrees than cutting glass using Mayhems kit. As a matter of fact I have ordered the kit and an assortment of tubing from them, waiting for delivery. A local shop has the kit already for demo purposes and I played with it for half an hour, it's really easy to measure and snap.
> 
> Maybe others are more reluctant to try something new, I for one welcome this solution and can only recommend it.


Thank you for the link to his glass cutter, he had not posted it here that it was officially for sale yet, or at least I didn't see it. If you took the time to read this post a few pages back, you would see that I was commenting on his design when he was asking for opinions about it. I am well aware of what the tool is used for and how it is supposed to make things easier when using it for glass applications. I still don't recommend anyone "Try" something that is not already their own desire purely because I might think it would be cool without first having experience in it myself. I am glad you ordered the tool, I am glad it is easy for you and I will keep you name down for anyone having questions about glass runs in the future. Frankly you missed the point, the member who's question all this stemmed from never even hinted he was interested in a glass run, yet it keeps being suggested as "What he should consider" with no one able to show him a picture of a successful build and advice moving forward. If you want to coach him, please do so, a few pages back, I asked him to start a new thread for his build ideas and he did.


----------



## kevindd992002

war4peace said:


> Whoa there, hold yer horses, take a chill pill.
> Have you even seen Mayhems Glass cutting kit? It's for sale.
> Here's a video review:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emeZwmEfoI0
> 
> It makes glass cutting _easier_ than PETG. Mayhems also sells bent and straight glass tube as well. If you know how to measure length, the rest is easy. With that kit, glass tubing is pushed to #2 easiest watercooling tubing implementation, after soft tubing, and above PETG, especially if you want bends as well. I found it more difficult to heat and bend PETG at exactly 90 degrees than cutting glass using Mayhems kit. As a matter of fact I have ordered the kit and an assortment of tubing from them, waiting for delivery. A local shop has the kit already for demo purposes and I played with it for half an hour, it's really easy to measure and snap.
> 
> Maybe others are more reluctant to try something new, I for one welcome this solution and can only recommend it.


I did watch that video when it came out and it does look to be easy to use. Do you still need chamfering and deburring with glass tubes? Also, can one get away building a whole loop and never trying to bend the glass tubes yourself (buy a mix of bent and straight tubes)?


----------



## Avacado

kevindd992002 said:


> I did watch that video when it came out and it does look to be easy to use. Do you still need chamfering and deburring with glass tubes? Also, can one get away building a whole loop and never trying to bend the glass tubes yourself (buy a mix of bent and straight tubes)?


Maybe @war4peace can follow you to the thread you created so he can help you with your glass run questions so we can once again give this thread back to Mayhem.


----------



## iamjanco

I've never done glass tubing before, but I have to admit I've been keeping my eyes on Mayhem's new cutting jig. Thinking about using it when I get to the CaseLabs part of my overall build.


----------



## iamjanco

@Mayhem could you tell me what options you offer to ship to the US? My delivery address will differ depending on whether you use the Post or one of the shipping services live DHL, UPS, or FEDEX.


----------



## TK421

blitz pro don't have electronic tester anymore?


----------



## TK421

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> lol yeah I'm just waiting for my new z490 apex to show up today :wheee:


Where did you manage to find an Apex in stock?


----------



## skupples

jeesh, we're finally into the new mayhems @ PPC. (new ECO branded labels)

we're also finally receiving Aquacomputer's new branding too! I guess PPC's finally cleared out the backlog.


----------



## mikegold10

Does Mayhem produce an additive that won't leave a horrid cyan residue all over the loop?


----------



## skupples

mikegold10 said:


> Does Mayhem produce an additive that won't leave a horrid cyan residue all over the loop?


which one did that? people never wanna listen. just stick to X1Clear(not nuke) and all is well. or aquacomputer clear. 

biocide+ and inhibitor+ aren't gonna stain.


note - the bottles I got the other day are mislabeled as well... someone used white out to cover up the "blue" on the ECO series clear bottles 

imagine mick sitting there with a white out pen like "frick frick frick, that's $5K worth of mislabeled product!"


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> which one did that? people never wanna listen. just stick to X1Clear(not nuke) and all is well. or aquacomputer clear.
> 
> biocide+ and inhibitor+ aren't gonna stain.
> 
> 
> note - the bottles I got the other day are mislabeled as well... someone used white out to cover up the "blue" on the ECO series clear bottles
> 
> imagine mick sitting there with a white out pen like "frick frick frick, that's $5K worth of mislabeled product!"


My Clear bottle had "UV" blacked out with a marker......


----------



## skupples

oh wait... you're correct.


X1 (UV) CLEAR

how does UV glow without a color? !


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> oh wait... you're correct.
> 
> 
> X1 (UV) CLEAR
> 
> how does UV glow without a color? !


It must have been a product made for Corsair. I could totally see them marketing UV Clear....and their users swearing it was the greatest thing ever and the UV dropped their liquid temps eleventeen degrees!


----------



## garyd9

skupples said:


> oh wait... you're correct.
> 
> 
> X1 (UV) CLEAR


They didn't bother crossing off the "UV" on my bottle of "X1 UV Clear" Maybe it's clearly UV? I still think it was just lazy typesetter using cut/paste. I also noticed there wasn't any type of date code or expiration date on my bottle, but I'm assuming that the new "eco" packaging indicates it was made in the past year, so I doubt it's expired.

I wonder what "eco" is supposed to indicate. I suspect "ecology friendly", but many people might assume it means "this is the cheaper stuff."


----------



## skupples

its an in-house error, that's for sure. They do all their own labeling in house now.

either way, it still smells like X1.


----------



## mikegold10

skupples said:


> which one did that? people never wanna listen. just stick to X1Clear(not nuke) and all is well. or aquacomputer clear.
> 
> biocide+ and inhibitor+ aren't gonna stain.
> 
> 
> note - the bottles I got the other day are mislabeled as well... someone used white out to cover up the "blue" on the ECO series clear bottles
> 
> imagine mick sitting there with a white out pen like "frick frick frick, that's $5K worth of mislabeled product!"


All I see is X1 Eco Clear and X1 V2 Clear, which of those is the right one?


Mayhems X1 Eco Coolant Concentrate, 250mL, Clear
Mayhems X1 V2 - Clear 250ml Concentrated


----------



## garyd9

mikegold10 said:


> All I see is X1 Eco Clear and X1 V2 Clear, which of those is the right one?
> 
> 
> Mayhems X1 Eco Coolant Concentrate, 250mL, Clear
> Mayhems X1 V2 - Clear 250ml Concentrated


yes.

From a different thread, I was told that they are the same thing. The "v2" isn't labeled on the bottle as v2, but labeled as Eco. (I think Mayhems has a branding/marketing issue. ) If you go on the mayhems website and look at the product page for "x1", you'll see that they all have a "v2" title, but the bottle is "eco."


----------



## skupples

the bottles we're getting in the states are months older than what're going out in europe (home of mayhems)

order V2, whatever shows up is fine. I've used X1 non-eco or V2 or Boogaloo for almost a decade now.


----------



## garyd9

skupples said:


> I've used X1 non-eco or V2 or Boogaloo for almost a decade now.


How is that Boogaloo working out for you? Must be pretty good stuff to be working for a decade without issues. Any idea if they still sell it?


----------



## skupples

oh they still sell it.


----------



## Eulerian

I have a question about Blitz Pt 1.

The newest instructions (via the manual) are a little inconsistent with the video online. The manual says to tilt the radiator to help release any trapped air, and then after filling, slosh it around a bit, then let it sit for 6-12 hours. In other words, the manual says: fill, tilt, cap, slosh, wait - and that's it.

The video, on the other hand, says to always follow the manual since it will be the most up to date and possibly render the video obsolete, sure. That said, it mentions that being able to slosh it around is a bad sign (in that you can still fill it) so after sloshing, you should keep adding liquid. It also mentions shaking once in a while over the waiting period. In other words, the video says: (fill, cap, slosh) a few times until no noise, then wait (shaking occasionally over the duration).

I figured the newest manual omitted all of this description in case it was a new mixture / possibly more foaming or something, that would let it expand into all the crevices without as much manual intervention, but it's unclear.

Right now I have the liquids in the radiators overnight (10 hours now) and I can still slosh it around. But now I am concerned: Is the manual wrong? Should I have been filling until I can't hear any more sloshing? Should I have been shaking every couple of hours?

Do I need to empty the rads and do it again "properly"? If so, is it unsafe to be using Blitz twice in a row like this?

Thanks.


----------



## skupples

there's no foaming involved, you're essentially diluting pool acid n letting it slowly bubble away. at least, unless you're rehabbing a radiator that was previously doubling as a culture. 


at this point, you're fine. time to drain, fill, empty, rinse, etc then assemble & onto part 2.


----------



## kevindd992002

This has always been the problem with Mick. I mean he's great together with his products and all but he is lacking attention to detail like these little things. As an obsessive compulsive person myself, I find these tiny errors potentially turning into something big if you take them very literally. No offense meant Mick, I know you're just one person behind all these but I just wanted to point out my observation.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## kevindd992002

Where does it say in PPCS that the X1's are either v2 or eco? I can't seem tof ind that reference anywhere.


----------



## garyd9

kevindd992002 said:


> Where does it say in PPCS that the X1's are either v2 or eco? I can't seem tof ind that reference anywhere.


It doesn't. Don't go by the picture either.


----------



## kevindd992002

garyd9 said:


> It doesn't. Don't go by the picture either.


So are they v2 or not?


----------



## ciarlatano

kevindd992002 said:


> So are they v2 or not?


ECO is the latest product. I ordered X1 Clear from PPC last week and received ECO.


----------



## kevindd992002

ciarlatano said:


> ECO is the latest product. I ordered X1 Clear from PPC last week and received ECO.


Ok, great. That is good to know. I had to make sure because when I ordered Pastel from them last 2017, they gave me bottles from a year ago's batch and Mick had to send me new ones.


----------



## garyd9

duplicate - please delete


----------



## garyd9

kevindd992002 said:


> So are they v2 or not?


If you get a bottle that says "Eco", then yes. Otherwise not. Your best bet would be to use PPCS chat and ask them what they are shipping for the color/type you want. For clear concentrate, I got a V2/Eco bottle. I'd hope that they would have moved out their older non-v2/eco stock by now.


----------



## skupples

PPC is vending current stock, as previously stated multiple times now.


check mayhem's site. ECO is current stock, and PPC is sending ECO.


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> PPC is vending current stock, as previously stated multiple times now.
> 
> 
> check mayhem's site. ECO is current stock, and PPC is sending ECO.


The fact that they haven't updated all of the pics on the site probably is a big part of the wondering.


----------



## skupples

ciarlatano said:


> The fact that they haven't updated all of the pics on the site probably is a big part of the wondering.


yep, i completely get that. 



honestly though, that's like 4 labels and bottles ago now


----------



## garyd9

ciarlatano said:


> The fact that they haven't updated all of the pics on the site probably is a big part of the wondering.


Oh, they did. I think they changed it about a month ago, but due to the incredible slowness of the new site, it's still being uploaded. (obvious sarcasm..)


----------



## kevindd992002

Bummer! As I was about to checkout just 1 X1 clear, they are sold out now 

Other than PPCS and MMM, where else can I buy the X1 clear?


----------



## kevindd992002

According to Duke from PPCS, "no one is selling the v2's other than Mayhems themselves". So I'm really confused as to what to believe here. They say their new v2 stocks will arrive in 1 to 2 months' time and that their current stock are the non-v2's.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

there's some sort of naming confusion, still.


here's my guess - 



PPC just ran out of "V1" ECO, if a V1 ECO even existed outside of standard X1 Clear (non NUKE non XT). There's no marking on the bottle either way to denote this (I have two in front of my from PPC). The only place you can currently find any reference of "V2" branding is in the typed description of ECO on Mayhem's website. So, this means whatever PPC gets next will be the currently listed ECO V2 on Mick's website. 





I'd recommend trying to source Aquacomputer's Clear, or Mayhems' Biocide+ Inhibitor+ dropper bottles. I can't recommend ModMyMod's/ModMyToys clear, as I haven't personally tested it yet, and even then I'd have to get back to you in a year.


----------



## kevindd992002

skupples said:


> there's some sort of naming confusion, still.
> 
> 
> here's my guess -
> 
> 
> 
> PPC just ran out of "V1" ECO, if a V1 ECO even existed outside of standard X1 Clear (non NUKE non XT). There's no marking on the bottle either way to denote this (I have two in front of my from PPC). The only place you can currently find any reference of "V2" branding is in the typed description of ECO on Mayhem's website. So, this means whatever PPC gets next will be the currently listed ECO V2 on Mick's website.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd recommend trying to source Aquacomputer's Clear, or Mayhems' Biocide+ Inhibitor+ dropper bottles. I can't recommend ModMyMod's/ModMyToys clear, as I haven't personally tested it yet, and even then I'd have to get back to you in a year.


Ohh so there's a v1 eco? I thought all the eco bottles are v2? This is really getting confusing.

ModMyMods sells the v2 eco bottles. They both have the v2 in the product name and the eco label on the bottles in their product pics.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

kevindd992002 said:


> Ohh so there's a v1 eco? I thought all the eco bottles are v2? This is really getting confusing.
> 
> ModMyMods sells the v2 eco bottles. They both have the v2 in the product name and the eco label on the bottles in their product pics.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


then get that? 




The stock PPC just ran out of is labeled ECO, and looks identical to what is on mayhem's site as "Mayhems X1 V2 - Clear 250ml Concentrated" their site just isn't up to date with naming or product image, and Mick is MIA to sort out the general confusion. 


I'm not really sure what the confusion is except that we keep calling the same thing slightly different things due to typical Mick stuff. 



I'd assume all ECO is the same, until otherwise stated by Mick himself. The only real issue here is PPC has an old picture up on their site. However, mayhem's bottles have randomly changed a few times over the years. likely an availability/pricing thing. The only thing that's actually changed is the naming convention from X1 to X1 ECO(V2) 



XD


----------



## kevindd992002

skupples said:


> ok, that's kind of my point.
> 
> 
> one more time...
> 
> 
> 
> The stock PPC just ran out of is labeled ECO, and looks identical to what is on mayhem's site as "Mayhems X1 V2 - Clear 250ml Concentrated"
> 
> 
> I'm not really sure what the confusion is except that we keep calling the same thing slightly different things due to typical Mick stuff. X1 is the good stuff, whatever bottle it comes in.
> 
> 
> 
> i just realized I can run the barcode on this bottle... 1 sec. barcode only reports numbers, and no QR Code.
> 
> 
> I'd assume all ECO is the same, until otherwise stated by Mick himself. The only real issue here is PPC has an old picture up on their site. However, mayhem's bottles have randomly changed a few times over the years. likely an availability/pricing thing. The only thing that's actually changed is the naming convention from X1 to X1 ECO


Ok so if I understand what you're saying, as long as the bottle is labeled ECO (or looks like the ones posted in Mayhems' website) then that is already the latest version, correct?

And regardless of what bottle it comes in, the X1 properties are exactly the same. The only change to the supposedly "v2" of the product is the bottle. 

Do these seem accurate so far?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

thats the gist, yeah.


ECO is V2, AKA the modern replacement for original X1(V1) 



that's my take away until mick says i'm wrong.


----------



## kevindd992002

skupples said:


> thats the gist, yeah.
> 
> 
> ECO is V2, AKA the modern replacement for original X1(V1)
> 
> 
> 
> that's my take away until mick says i'm wrong.


Ok. When will Mick ever reply back here. 

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

who knows. hope he's alright.


----------



## kevindd992002

In case you want to follow the discussion here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/mayhemssolutions/permalink/660391941238502/

In summary:
- all ECO bottles are v2
- all old square bottles are v1
- v2 has slight difference in mixture (has newer biocides and inhibitors, but base formula the same) compared to v1 but still there is a difference

To top that off, here's a chat reply from PPCS about their stocks:

"OK. So after looking and asking, we have some V2, but not a lot, we are trying to sell out of the V1 before selling the v2. I will go ahead and swap out the bottles.. You will get the X1 UV Clear Blue in the Eco bottle."


----------



## war4peace

skupples said:


> who knows. hope he's alright.


He's very much all right, but found new toys to play with and posting about them on FB all day (laser cutters, etc). In the meantime my orders for Mayhems stuff are not coming an the local shop I ordered from on June 17th, they say they can't get the order through to Mayhems because there is no response, they assume it's lack of stock because of Covid.
I ordered an assortment of glass tubing and their glass cutting kit, I am a bit disappointed with the delay, was planning on reviewing it and build two PCs using glass tubing. I can't wait ref. one of the builds, but will wait about the other (my main PC).

Now, I understand the joy and obsession over a new, expensive toy (most men do), but when it starts affecting your regular business processes it's a problem.


----------



## skupples

yeah who knows. everyone's a little crazy right now, n those that spend a ton of time social media are A LOT crazy right now.


there's basically no way to avoid the algorithmic onslaught except to tune out, turn off, and step up. Sad really, to see how corrupted, exploited, and hijacked the message has become all these years later.


----------



## Mordorr

Can someone resume this story about V1 or V2 and all about the fussy here?

I did buy 5L of X1 Clear....should i look for something strange?


----------



## skupples

there is no story


the original X1 formula can be referred to as V1, and is end of life. 



ECO IS V2 and is in circluation. 








as for individual vendor availability. no clue.


----------



## ThrashZone

Mordorr said:


> Can someone resume this story about V1 or V2 and all about the fussy here?
> 
> I did buy 5L of X1 Clear....should i look for something strange?


Hi,
Story is mayhems doesn't recall eol products so there may still be some people selling the old stuff.
So if you get some old stuff it won't have the eco label.


----------



## Mayhem

All round bottles for the last year are all V2. 
End of line Square bottles were also V2, V1 hasn't been made in about 1 1/2 years. No one will notice any difference.

Basically they have been selling for about 1 1/2 years now and there is little difference between old Version and new just updated Biocides and inhibitors.

Delivery is out of our hands and this has to do with coivd. Every thing is shipped (next working day) if we have stock. If not we normally will email a customer or phone them if they are local and explain when things will be back in stock and either offer refunds or replacements if they want items fast.

My daughter and wife are running 80% of Mayhem's Ian runs the support, i have stepped back and bury my head in dev. (new products are being worked on and still all done in house). Yes i have new toys and there being learnt so that we can make more stuff.

Covid has had a massive impact on a lot of the work we had done before and put the brakes on, we now do not have access to some of the hardware we did in the past due to them dedicating there equipment to the fight against covid. There is not much we can do about it.

Also sales have rocketed and at one point literately got wiped out at one point, getting hold of simple things like bottles and caps turned into a nightmare, getting goggles for the blitz kit is near impossible ect ect. How ever my staff are still working as am i.


----------



## Mayhem

Yes our label maker messed up and gave us 2,000 Labels of X1 Clear (250ml concentrate) (named X1 UV clear) and yes we had to sit there and hand mark out all the labels. :/ All 2,000 + of them. It took us 5 days

As for my health ... Pffft im getting old that is all i can say .

Glass cutting system is on sale and doing well, Lots and lots of positive feed back on it. 

As for my laser cutting and Fibre engraving .... (only had the fibre engraver about 4 days and learning on it what it can do....)

We now have 

- 200 watt laser cutter oxygen assisted for cutting metals (1300 x 900) 
- 50 watt Fibre laser engraver / cutter (300 x 300) A very complex system but below are some pics.


----------



## war4peace

Mayhem said:


> Glass cutting system is on sale and doing well, Lots and lots of positive feed back on it.


I ordered one glass cutting system and an assortment of glass tubing through a local shop which sells Maymens products as well, that was mid-June, a few days ago i called them and they said they can't get the order through to Mayhems because of Covid, and that Mayhems has no stock. Just wondering if they fed me BS or the situation is indeed as they say.
Should I order directly? I live in the EU.


----------



## Mordorr

Gonna later at home check the bottle, if i dint`trow it to trash, and put here some photo.

Thank you guys.

Be strong on these crazy days.:thumb:


----------



## skupples

thanks for the update, Mick. 



party on.


----------



## dwolvin

Thanks for the update- Stay strong!

And I love the modern-Da Vinci fan grill etching!


----------



## Mordorr

IS this version ok?


----------



## skupples

is it less than two years of age and has it been stored in a cool and dark place? 



if so, it's fine. as he said, V2 has been in circulation for 18+ months... even before the branding change and label mishap


----------



## Mayhem

war4peace said:


> I ordered one glass cutting system and an assortment of glass tubing through a local shop which sells Maymens products as well, that was mid-June, a few days ago i called them and they said they can't get the order through to Mayhems because of Covid, and that Mayhems has no stock. Just wondering if they fed me BS or the situation is indeed as they say.
> Should I order directly? I live in the EU.


No Not BS some stock is out, Even a ahem big company e.g we ordered 15,000 bottles 2 months ago and they still have not arrived, again totally out of our hands. Glass cutter we have stock. So the company isn't lying to you there telling the truth. For caps i ended up asking competitors were they get there's and two helped me find stock so we could get some work done (that was Watercooling UK and Alphacool So a massive thank you goes out to them. So those who support us and bash alpha cool you need to be nice to them we would have not survived if they didn't help as did Watercool UK.
I have worked all the way though coivd non stop and one a time i was in work alone for 4 weeks dealing with every thing (its not been easy).

Bottle above is V2.

Pastel is also EOL .. A company who supply one of the base component's has basically sold us the worst "s**t" in the world and let us down big time. It has caused massive drop out on pastel and nothing but a head ace. There come back was "it works if you shake it" *** ...... .... Trust me i would like to go on a rampage because of this but im not going to, I have pulled all stock of pastel, some of it got into the market place but because of the quick actions of some users in informing us of problems we have managed to not let to many into the market place (we are dealing with this though support and replacement products). We will no longer be selling Pastel in its present form. We have had to bin about £20,000 worth of pastel stock. This is another reason why ive been so busy. I have been asked can i fix it, and to be honest no i cannot esp when the base component is a shoddy work of complete and utter cow poo and i will not sell some thing to the public that is so bad even i would not use it. We are very lucky because of this, we nearly lost mayhems due to the amount of financial loss, but we have fought though and are still fighting to keep us up and running come hell or high water. Talk about stressful... 

Ill not go on to much but yes, we are still here, Yes covid has had a massive impact, yes im half dead on my feet and getting no younger ... and yes im a little stressed out so trying not to spend to much time on the net ...

Last but not least thank you for all your good wishes it does help, thank you for your understanding it does help, thank you for your support again it does help. Mayhems is only around because of you lot and our customers.


----------



## war4peace

Thank you for your response, I will patiently wait, no rush


----------



## Mordorr

skupples said:


> is it less than two years of age and has it been stored in a cool and dark place?
> 
> 
> 
> if so, it's fine. as he said, V2 has been in circulation for 18+ months... even before the branding change and label mishap


Was bought about 5/8 months, and its been stored in glass, in a dark and cool place.

Dont know about it before....

Bought on a store in U.K.


----------



## skupples

its most likely V2, and definitely fine either way.


there ya go, mick said it himself. it's V2.


----------



## broodro0ster

Pastel EOL? Damn 
I started using it 1.5 years ago and it became my favorite coolant. I'll have to get 3 years out of my current coolant and use the closed bottle I still have. And I hope by then you've something something that's as awesome as pastel.


----------



## Avacado

broodro0ster said:


> Pastel EOL? Damn
> I started using it 1.5 years ago and it became my favorite coolant. I'll have to get 3 years out of my current coolant and use the closed bottle I still have. And I hope by then you've something something that's as awesome as pastel.


I feel ya. I stocked up, bought 8 bottles of the White.


----------



## garyd9

Mayhem said:


> A company who supply one of the base component's has basically sold us the worst "s**t" in the world and let us down big time.


Was that supplier named "EK" by any chance? 



Mayhem said:


> Yes our label maker messed up and gave us 2,000 Labels of X1 Clear (250ml concentrate) (named X1 UV clear) and yes we had to sit there and hand mark out all the labels. :/ All 2,000 + of them. It took us 5 days


You missed at least one.  Does this mean I have a rare collectors item? I wonder if I'll be able to resell the (empty) bottle in a few years for a hefty profit. This bottle just might become the "Inverted Jenny" of the water cooling world!


----------



## skupples

no way man! the ones with the marking are the limited editions, n i've got 4!!!!


----------



## garyd9

skupples said:


> no way man! the ones with the marking are the limited editions, n i've got 4!!!!


The other thing that most people miss on the label of the clear X1: "Advanced Pastel Nano Coolant." 

How is it both "clear" and "pastel"? I realize that I'm American and I only speak a bastardized version of English, so perhaps this is beyond my understanding. Mayhem is from the UK (England, I presume, the home of Queen's English.) So, can someone who speaks The Queen's English please explain how something clear can be pastel?


----------



## ciarlatano

garyd9 said:


> The other thing that most people miss on the label of the clear X1: "Advanced Pastel Nano Coolant."
> 
> How is it both "clear" and "pastel"? I realize that I'm American and I only speak a bastardized version of English, so perhaps this is beyond my understanding. Mayhem is from the UK (England, I presume, the home of Queen's English.) So, can someone who speaks The Queen's English please explain how something clear can be pastel?


It's much like a clear Easter Bonnet, now isn't it?


----------



## Mayhem

Wow even i missed that. (what noob i am). mind you being dyslexic doesn't help. Ill sort that out on the next batch.


----------



## garyd9

Mayhem said:


> Wow even i missed that. (what noob i am). mind you being dyslexic doesn't help. Ill sort that out on the next batch.


Clear Pastel UV coolant! Tastes Great, and less filling!

(Please don't actually put that on the label.)


----------



## ciarlatano

garyd9 said:


> Clear Pastel UV coolant! Tastes Great, and less filling!
> 
> (Please don't actually put that on the label.)


The Emperor's New Pastel?

There is not a shred of doubt in my mind that if you had Jay/Linus/GamerJesus do a video talking about how amazing it is, and talking up the color of the (obviously clear) liquid, you would have every teenage gamer on OCN/Reddit/etc buying it and swearing they can see the effect.


----------



## ThrashZone

garyd9 said:


> The other thing that most people miss on the label of the clear X1: "Advanced Pastel Nano Coolant."
> 
> How is it both "clear" and "pastel"? I realize that I'm American and I only speak a bastardized version of English, so perhaps this is beyond my understanding. Mayhem is from the UK (England, I presume, the home of Queen's English.) So, can someone who speaks The Queen's English please explain how something clear can be pastel?


Hi,
You ever hear off color drop 
One day white, week later clear guess they are covering their bums


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You ever hear off color drop
> One day white, week later clear guess they are covering their bums


oof


----------



## vicyo

this might be a dumb question, but is this the manufacturing date or the expiration date? Its a 150ml bottle of XT-1 Nuke clear that i dont remember when i bought


----------



## kevindd992002

vicyo said:


> this might be a dumb question, but is this the manufacturing date or the expiration date? Its a 150ml bottle of XT-1 Nuke clear that i dont remember when i bought


If I remember correctly, that is the manufacturing date. There are no actual expiration dates for Mayhems liquids.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Moose-Tech

Mayhem said:


> No Not BS some stock is out, Even a ahem big company e.g we ordered 15,000 bottles 2 months ago and they still have not arrived, again totally out of our hands. Glass cutter we have stock. So the company isn't lying to you there telling the truth. For caps i ended up asking competitors were they get there's and two helped me find stock so we could get some work done (that was Watercooling UK and Alphacool So a massive thank you goes out to them. So those who support us and bash alpha cool you need to be nice to them we would have not survived if they didn't help as did Watercool UK.
> I have worked all the way though coivd non stop and one a time i was in work alone for 4 weeks dealing with every thing (its not been easy).
> 
> Bottle above is V2.
> 
> Pastel is also EOL .. A company who supply one of the base component's has basically sold us the worst "s**t" in the world and let us down big time. It has caused massive drop out on pastel and nothing but a head ace. There come back was "it works if you shake it" *** ...... .... Trust me i would like to go on a rampage because of this but im not going to, I have pulled all stock of pastel, some of it got into the market place but because of the quick actions of some users in informing us of problems we have managed to not let to many into the market place (we are dealing with this though support and replacement products). We will no longer be selling Pastel in its present form. We have had to bin about £20,000 worth of pastel stock. This is another reason why ive been so busy. I have been asked can i fix it, and to be honest no i cannot esp when the base component is a shoddy work of complete and utter cow poo and i will not sell some thing to the public that is so bad even i would not use it. We are very lucky because of this, we nearly lost mayhems due to the amount of financial loss, but we have fought though and are still fighting to keep us up and running come hell or high water. Talk about stressful...
> 
> Ill not go on to much but yes, we are still here, Yes covid has had a massive impact, yes im half dead on my feet and getting no younger ... and yes im a little stressed out so trying not to spend to much time on the net ...
> 
> Last but not least thank you for all your good wishes it does help, thank you for your understanding it does help, thank you for your support again it does help. Mayhems is only around because of you lot and our customers.


I used the Mayhems UV Pastel White concentrate (with Mayhems non-staining blue dye) for about 5 months before switching to distilled. It did settle out over 12 hours, but would instantly integrate when the system turned on. However, based on some horror stories I picked up on other posts/forums, I really had no issues with the Mayhems Pastel UV white concentrate. It never blocked or settled in either of my water blocks and always looked great when the system was running. It never changed colors other than a little fading of the UV dye (which is normal for all manufacturers). I was able to remove about 97% or the blue dye and pastel using a 10% vinegar solution (cutting out the nickel water block) and then running Blitz Part 2 through the whole loop. When I rebuilt the system a few months later, only the O-rings contained traces of both the pastel and dye.
Once I went to distilled I had two containers of Mayhems UV Pastel White concentrate left over. Since I no longer needed it, I wound up giving it away to another OCN'er that needed some (he paid shipping). 

My entire system is cleaned with both Blitz Part 1 and Part 2. (FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS!)
I previously used the Mayhems Clear tubing and currently use the Mayhems Solid White UV tubing. Like all soft tubing, the Clear did discolor slightly over time, but was still flexible and viable for additional use. It really was a good product and I am still saving some for a future build. The Mayhens UV white solid tubing is amazing though. I don't need UV dye to get that cool UV glow. Bonus, it does not fade over time, which even the White UV pastel did over time (but could be spruced up with Sky Blue UV dye).

I am currently running distilled and Mayhems Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ (old stock) with Mayhems Solid White UV tubing and could not be happier. Mayhems makes quality products and I am glad I did the research to verify this before filling my loop. It is really great that you stay in touch with the water cooling community and answer all their questions. I think everybody in this forum really appreciates the effort you and your family and staff put into your products. My thanks to you and your company.

When my future Son-in-Law finally commits to a custom loop, I will get him started with Mayhems products.


----------



## cram501

I've been using the same Mayhems UV Lime/Yellow Pastel for about 3.5 years now. I rechecked the solution this weekend to make sure it was clear and the PH was good. Everything still looks pristine. I'm using acrylic hard lines for the build and I'm happy with the results so far with the Pastel. It will be interesting to see how long it lasts.

I've been really happy with the performance of the pastel so I'm sorry to see it discontinued.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Times change so do products two steps forward can turn into three steps back pretty easily
That mayhems quote was from nearly two weeks ago so yeah new product.


----------



## SteezyTN

Which Mayhems coolants are compatible with PETG Tubing? I'm currently using Pastel Ice White, and want to go with the more translucent red colors, such as X1 or nuke. Im just unsure as to which are compatible with PETG. The Mayhems website is kind of confusing in which is and isn't compatible.


----------



## Avacado

SteezyTN said:


> Which Mayhems coolants are compatible with PETG Tubing? I'm currently using Pastel Ice White, and want to go with the more translucent red colors, such as X1 or nuke. Im just unsure as to which are compatible with PETG. The Mayhems website is kind of confusing in which is and isn't compatible.


You'll find everything you need here https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1751662-ek-cryofuel-mayhem-blitz-question.html


----------



## SteezyTN

Avacado said:


> SteezyTN said:
> 
> 
> 
> Which Mayhems coolants are compatible with PETG Tubing? I'm currently using Pastel Ice White, and want to go with the more translucent red colors, such as X1 or nuke. Im just unsure as to which are compatible with PETG. The Mayhems website is kind of confusing in which is and isn't compatible.
> 
> 
> 
> You'll find everything you need here https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1751662-ek-cryofuel-mayhem-blitz-question.html
Click to expand...

Ummm that’s literally my post asking the same thing.


----------



## Avacado

SteezyTN said:


> Ummm that’s literally my post asking the same thing.


Exactly.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
lol yeah maybe he's looking for an official response from mayhems seeing documentation is off.


----------



## SteezyTN

Documentation is definitely off. It’s concerning for me because I’ve been away from Watercooling for 2 years now. I’d rather be safe that sorry. I was getting mixed responses on my thread, and I was trying to reach out to Mayhems. That chart seems to be based off the older varieties. And the new varieties aren’t even in stock at PPCs.


----------



## skupples

PPC ran out of stock of the "new" stuff, and its been all new stuff in circulation for nearly 2 years now, even before the bottles changed (as mick covered earlier in thread while breaking away from his new tools) 



idk about X1, but XT1 is most definitely PETG stafe.


----------



## SteezyTN

skupples said:


> PPC ran out of stock of the "new" stuff, and its been all new stuff in circulation for nearly 2 years now, even before the bottles changed (as mick covered earlier in thread while breaking away from his new tools)
> 
> 
> 
> idk about X1, but XT1 is most definitely PETG stafe.


 that’s good to know. Cause all the nuke versions on PPCs showed the older style bottles.


----------



## skupples

SteezyTN said:


> that’s good to know. Cause all the nuke versions on PPCs showed the older style bottles.





Mayhem said:


> All round bottles for the last year are all V2.
> End of line Square bottles were also V2, V1 hasn't been made in about 1 1/2 years. No one will notice any difference.
> 
> Basically they have been selling for about 1 1/2 years now and there is little difference between old Version and new just updated Biocides and inhibitors.
> 
> Delivery is out of our hands and this has to do with coivd. Every thing is shipped (next working day) if we have stock. If not we normally will email a customer or phone them if they are local and explain when things will be back in stock and either offer refunds or replacements if they want items fast.
> 
> My daughter and wife are running 80% of Mayhem's Ian runs the support, i have stepped back and bury my head in dev. (new products are being worked on and still all done in house). Yes i have new toys and there being learnt so that we can make more stuff.
> 
> Covid has had a massive impact on a lot of the work we had done before and put the brakes on, we now do not have access to some of the hardware we did in the past due to them dedicating there equipment to the fight against covid. There is not much we can do about it.
> 
> Also sales have rocketed and at one point literately got wiped out at one point, getting hold of simple things like bottles and caps turned into a nightmare, getting goggles for the blitz kit is near impossible ect ect. How ever my staff are still working as am i.


 What i'm quoting.


however, I agree the information is murky at best, and i completely get questioning what PPC has in stock, specially since they haven't updated their own stock photos in like 5 years.


----------



## kevindd992002

What? I was expecting X1 to be safe for PETG. I can't see any reference that it's not safe for PETG.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

i did not confirm or deny what X1 is good for. only that XT1 is PETG safe based on mick's product page.




Code:


The new “Non Toxic” high end Ethylene Glycol coolant containing a patented DeTox™ and PETG Safe additives.
 
[LIST]
[*]up to 5 Year Shelf Life
[*]5 Year System Life
[*]Non Toxic Ethylene Glycol (Patented Mix)
[*]Pet and Human Safe
[*]Biocide + (new formula for extreme cooling)
[*]Corrosion + Protection
[*]Protects all metals used in current cooling systems
[*]PETG Safe will not micro fracture your PETG Tubing, unlike other brands.
[/LIST]

 pretty sure X1 is fine for PETG too. we'd see issues around here if not  since we all shill for X1 so hard.


i'm also pretty sure he's said the two products are essentially sums of the same base ingredients, XT1 is just more potent? don't quote me on that one though.


----------



## kevindd992002

Right. So this chart is no longer updated?

https://www.performance-pcs.com/media/wysiwyg/mayhems sheet.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

it would seem that chart has not been updated to reflect the reformulation of XT1 that made it PETG safe, correct.


Like, we know the ladies are running the site & store for mick while he's innovating, but maybe they could benefit from a fresh pair of eyes? I'm more than sure someone around here would be more than willing to vet his manuals n stuff for extreme OCD tier clarity.


----------



## kevindd992002

Yeah. I hope that Mick hires more people for this QA type of stuff. These nitty gritty details can turn into something catastrophic if left uncorrected. It's just sad.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

I doubt hiring is happening any time in the future, but that doesn't rule out the ability to dial in his documentation during the downtime/downturn/ww3. 



luckily, there's really nothing for it to mess up anymore except for him making the sale, now that the entire product stack is PETG safe. 





X1 or XT1... either one is going to do the job you're assigning it with ease.


----------



## garyd9

kevindd992002 said:


> Right. So this chart is no longer updated?
> 
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/media/wysiwyg/mayhems sheet.jpg


You expect anything on the incredibly slow PPCS website to be updated? This is a website that uses pictures of PC's with FLOPPY DRIVES to advertise.


----------



## Avacado

Steezy, do you see what you've done? You have got Kevin going on this wabbit hole.


----------



## kevindd992002

Lol, yeah. Paranoia kicking in.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawnb99

garyd9 said:


> You expect anything on the incredibly slow PPCS website to be updated? This is a website that uses pictures of PC's with FLOPPY DRIVES to advertise.



They really need to update and show PC’s with Zip drives. Floppy’s are so last gen, Zip drives are the future of storage


----------



## iamjanco

Floppy vs. hard drive, do they swap out easy? There's supposed to be a pill for that, but I haven't had a need for it myself.


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> I doubt hiring is happening any time in the future, but that doesn't rule out the ability to dial in his documentation during the downtime/downturn/ww3.
> 
> 
> 
> luckily, there's really nothing for it to mess up anymore except for him making the sale, now that the entire product stack is PETG safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> X1 or XT1... either one is going to do the job you're assigning it with ease.


Oh.....no, no, no, no, no.....no.......NO. XT-1 is (really "was" since it is EOL) NOT safe for PETG. XT-1 Nuke V2 is safe for PETG (supposedly). X1 has always been PETG friendly.



Avacado said:


> Steezy, do you see what you've done? You have got Kevin going on this wabbit hole.


And @skupples is sending Steezy back down his wabbit hole...... :doh:
And @ThrashZone is confusing Steezy's thread even more randomly talking about the confusing Blitz documents.


----------



## Avacado

Shawnb99 said:


> They really need to update and show PC’s with Zip drives. Floppy’s are so last gen, Zip drives are the future of storage


I still have quite a few important documents on Floppy and Zip drives. Good luck burglar getting that info easy. Besides, would they even know about the physical lock on the disk? (Yes, I know it was write protection only.)


----------



## ThrashZone

ciarlatano said:


> And @ThrashZone is confusing Steezy's thread even more randomly talking about the confusing Blitz documents.


Hi,
I referred to blitz 1 & 2 because the Steezy's was likely going to use it it is referred to in the title of his thread lol 
Bottle instructions are wrong always has been and never corrected and to top it off mayhems had to sharpy out incorrect x1 labels on a 2k bottles 

Paper instructions are correct but these would be best on the bottles too especially part 1
Who would know that unless they read this bloated thread frankly dude just wants an official response and I don't blame him it's terrible documentation is so poor and out of date which is the only thing that is confusing Steezy's


----------



## SteezyTN

Is the issue still true regarding the use of Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT and Mayhems XT-1 Nuke V2... with plasticizer and gunk?

I normally go with Mayhems Ultra Clear, but everything is out of stock.


----------



## ciarlatano

SteezyTN said:


> Is the issue still true regarding the use of Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT and Mayhems XT-1 Nuke V2... with plasticizer and gunk?
> 
> I normally go with Mayhems Ultra Clear, but everything is out of stock.


What happened to the PETG? Didn't we just go through a long, painful thread on that?


----------



## SteezyTN

ciarlatano said:


> SteezyTN said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is the issue still true regarding the use of Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT and Mayhems XT-1 Nuke V2... with plasticizer and gunk?
> 
> I normally go with Mayhems Ultra Clear, but everything is out of stock.
> 
> 
> 
> What happened to the PETG? Didn't we just go through a long, painful thread on that?
Click to expand...

i don’t know what your problem is, but I’m here asking questions... which is why this thread is here.

I have a caselabs SMA8 and use both hardline and soft tubing.


----------



## ThrashZone

SteezyTN said:


> Is the issue still true regarding the use of Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT and Mayhems XT-1 Nuke V2... with plasticizer and gunk?
> 
> I normally go with *Mayhems Ultra Clear, but everything is out of stock*.


Hi,
Modmymods sell it by the foot cheap too.


----------



## SteezyTN

ThrashZone said:


> SteezyTN said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is the issue still true regarding the use of Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT and Mayhems XT-1 Nuke V2... with plasticizer and gunk?
> 
> I normally go with *Mayhems Ultra Clear, but everything is out of stock*.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Modmymods sell it by the foot cheap too.
Click to expand...

I found that after I was looking. It just sucks cause for $6 (10ft) of tubing, it’s $13 to ship.


----------



## garyd9

SteezyTN said:


> I normally go with Mayhems Ultra Clear, but everything is out of stock.


Did you search for "Mayhems ultra clear UV Pastel"? (Just in case it's mislabeled.)


----------



## ciarlatano

garyd9 said:


> Did you search for "Mayhems ultra clear UV Pastel"? (Just in case it's mislabeled.)


How are you making out with yours? Mine glows during daylight hours in Easter Egg patterns.


----------



## ThrashZone

SteezyTN said:


> I found that after I was looking. It just sucks cause for $6 (10ft) of tubing, it’s $13 to ship.


Hi,
If you get your fluid there too how much is it all 
They also have blitz 1 & 2 kit.


----------



## SteezyTN

Deleted


----------



## Mayhem

Evening

XTR 6nm has gone out to testers. We tested its light blocking ability and thermal conductivity using a 6 KW and 100 Watt fibre lasers. It blocked and absorbed all the heat instantly allowing no light what so ever to pass. So far users have been saying any thing for -7 to -9c reduction in there head loads on there cpu / gpu blocks but this is initial testing so lets hold out a while longer. We have seen from any thing from -3c to -10c knocked off temps depending on the cooling system employed. On XTR 1nm its much higher but this is a industrial variation of XTR. It can be dyed but our issue is, doing this effects it cooling ability and its not easy dying it.

One question we keep getting asked is XTR a replacement for pastel!!!!!. Short answer is unequivocally "NO". Mayhems Pastel was a mix of two different technology employed to make a coolant. Mayhems XTR is a 100% man made product and is grown and developed from the ground up here in the UK... its taken well over 8 years of R&D and a hell of a lot of hart ache and time.

More to come soon about it but lets say i'm excited.

(today i even poured it into my car) ... that is how much faith i have.


----------



## kevindd992002

@Mayhem Do you have an updated liquid to tubing type compatibility chart?


----------



## war4peace

Mayhem said:


> One question we keep getting asked is XTR a replacement for pastel!!!!!. Short answer is unequivocally "NO". Mayhems Pastel was a mix of two different technology employed to make a coolant. Mayhems XTR is a 100% man made product and is grown and developed from the ground up here in the UK... its taken well over 8 years of R&D and a hell of a lot of hart ache and time.


I'm confused. The answer doesn't say it's not a replacement for Pastel. It says it's a different research path and technology, but doesn't specify why can't I drain my loop of Pastel and put XTR instead.


----------



## Mayhem

war4peace said:


> I'm confused. The answer doesn't say it's not a replacement for Pastel. It says it's a different research path and technology, but doesn't specify why can't I drain my loop of Pastel and put XTR instead.


You can if you wish, All testers have only been asked to rinse there systems with water and nothing more then re test. XTR due to its formulation should need no cleaning except for a rinse and has a very large PH stability range.


----------



## skupples

no need for dye in mine. just vroom vroom.


----------



## ppkstat

I sent this to support but unfortunately got no reply. I am planning on using a mo-ra 3 for my next build and just purchased some xt1 nuke V2 and blitz part 2. I'll be using ek zmt for tubing. Does anybody know if part 2 alone is sufficient for cleaning a new mora? The mo-ra apparently has round tubes that are soldered from the outside so there's no flux inside. They're supposedly very clean so I was planning to skip part 1 and just run part 2 with an inline 5 micron water filter to catch any residue. Is that ok?


----------



## war4peace

Mayhem said:


> You can if you wish, All testers have only been asked to rinse there systems with water and nothing more then re test. XTR due to its formulation should need no cleaning except for a rinse and has a very large PH stability range.


That is great news! Thank you!


----------



## Mayhem

ppkstat said:


> I sent this to support but unfortunately got no reply. I am planning on using a mo-ra 3 for my next build and just purchased some xt1 nuke V2 and blitz part 2. I'll be using ek zmt for tubing. Does anybody know if part 2 alone is sufficient for cleaning a new mora? The mo-ra apparently has round tubes that are soldered from the outside so there's no flux inside. They're supposedly very clean so I was planning to skip part 1 and just run part 2 with an inline 5 micron water filter to catch any residue. Is that ok?


Support wont have a clue what a mo-ra is lol ... to answer your question yes it will be fine.


----------



## ppkstat

Mayhem said:


> Support wont have a clue what a mo-ra is lol ... to answer your question yes it will be fine.


Thanks Mike!


----------



## kevindd992002

@Mayhem are all XT coolants fine with PETG?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## war4peace

ppkstat said:


> I sent this to support but unfortunately got no reply. I am planning on using a mo-ra 3 for my next build and just purchased some xt1 nuke V2 and blitz part 2. I'll be using ek zmt for tubing. Does anybody know if part 2 alone is sufficient for cleaning a new mora? The mo-ra apparently has round tubes that are soldered from the outside so there's no flux inside. They're supposedly very clean so I was planning to skip part 1 and just run part 2 with an inline 5 micron water filter to catch any residue. Is that ok?


I have a MoRa 420 and haven't prepared it prior to using. No problem whatsoever.


----------



## Mayhem

Yes all XT-1 Now is now PETG Safe. We added a Blocker into the mix to stop it penetrating and drying out Petg tubing.


----------



## Mayhem

war4peace said:


> I have a MoRa 420 and haven't prepared it prior to using. No problem whatsoever.


Ive personally tested it with the new XTR and had no issues the rads are remarkably clean, however, I expect no less from watercool.de (heat killer) top-notch gear  and my goto brand for a lot of parts. But part 2 will do it no harm either.


----------



## Shawnb99

Any ETA on when we can expect the new XTR fluid for sale?


----------



## Mayhem

Not atm, quite a few ppl testing, need feedback first.


----------



## kevindd992002

Mayhem said:


> Yes all XT-1 Now is now PETG Safe. We added a Blocker into the mix to stop it penetrating and drying out Petg tubing.


I was actually asking about XT (not XT-1)?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## ciarlatano

kevindd992002 said:


> I was actually asking about XT (not XT-1)?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


There is no current "XT" coolant.


----------



## kevindd992002

ciarlatano said:


> There is no current "XT" coolant.


Argh, I feel so stupid. Sorry about that, I meant the X1.


----------



## ciarlatano

kevindd992002 said:


> Argh, I feel so stupid. Sorry about that, I meant the X1.


X1 has always been PETG compatible.


----------



## Mayhem

Above. X-1 has always been compatible, Originally XT-1 had issues over a long period of time (caused micro fractures and this is the same for all Ethylene glycol based coolants), I did a lot of R&D into it and i managed to find a blocker that stopped it happening. This is a custom mixture that we are the only company in the world who knows how to do it. There are several companies who we supply who also have this mixture incorporated into theirs. How ever we still move with the times and try and advance our products were we can.


----------



## SteezyTN

Mayhem said:


> Above. X-1 has always been compatible, Originally XT-1 had issues over a long period of time (caused micro fractures and this is the same for all Ethylene glycol based coolants), I did a lot of R&D into it and i managed to find a blocker that stopped it happening. This is a custom mixture that we are the only company in the world who knows how to do it. There are several companies who we supply who also have this mixture incorporated into theirs. How ever we still move with the times and try and advance our products were we can.


This is the official results I was looking for the past 2 weeks regarding PETG. I already went ahead and ordered the Nuke V2, so pretty bummed about that. Now im worried about the ethylene gycol.


----------



## Mayhem

Just to clarify 

All Mayhems coolants are Petg safe.


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> Just to clarify
> 
> All Mayhems coolants are Petg safe.


BAM! Now the thread can go back to normal.


----------



## Mayhem

Oky stage 3 of testing Mayhems XTR - 

Weve had plenty of users test XTR in private im not going to say there results that is up to them. We have a limited supply of XTR at the moment but who would like to test it and show there results..... 
!!!!!


----------



## ciarlatano

Mayhem said:


> Oky stage 3 of testing Mayhems XTR -
> 
> Weve had plenty of users test XTR in private im not going to say there results that is up to them. We have a limited supply of XTR at the moment but who would like to test it and show there results.....
> !!!!!


I would be more than happy to be a beta tester on this.


----------



## Mayhem

ciarlatano said:


> I would be more than happy to be a beta tester on this.



Might have to try and stick to eu for the moment, Were going though SDS sheets and getting all the data together, we have so many unknowns its not a easy one to get the docs right for with out giving up information vital to the way its made or made up off. This is one product we do not want any one to copy due to how well it works.


----------



## ciarlatano

Mayhem said:


> Might have to try and stick to eu for the moment, Were going though SDS sheets and getting all the data together, we have so many unknowns its not a easy one to get the docs right for with out giving up information vital to the way its made or made up off. This is one product we do not want any one to copy due to how well it works.


Understood. Keep me posted if US winds up a possibility.


----------



## Mayhem

Will do. We may be able to ship it via one of our resellers but as said we have a very limited amount atm.


----------



## dwolvin

I have been a distilled + biocide and corrosion inhibitor (currently XT-1 of some sort), but this new stuff has my curiosity piqued. Will it be available in colors, or is it a single color? I did read it's not translucent, but didn't notice an y color discussion.


----------



## Mayhem

Hello dwolvin

Its can be coloured but initially,we will not be colouring it as the colouring effects its performance. You can add dye though using any of Mayhems dyes. XTR is mainly been worked on around performance and looks is a secondary issue.


----------



## dwolvin

Fair enough! Is the base Grey / black?


----------



## skupples

Mayhem said:


> Hello dwolvin
> 
> Its can be coloured but initially,we will not be colouring it as the colouring effects its performance. You can add dye though using any of Mayhems dyes. XTR is mainly been worked on around performance and looks is a secondary issue.


 yes please.


----------



## ryan92084

I'd also be in for guinea pig duty if you decide to to USA folks. High life span and low maintenance are right up my alley.


----------



## Mayhem

It is a slight off white colour (a lot of ppl have said sperm looking). We are also testing the 1nm version however this is an industrial coolant. I'm not going to post full test results of what we have found so far, to be as blunt as possible no one would believe us. We will roll out the 6nm first after testing is completed and then send out test samples of the 1nm for testers.

I do not want XTR branded as snake oil hence our approach is fully open ref people just saying as they see it.


----------



## skupples

Mayhem said:


> Its a slight off white colour (a lot of ppl have said sperm looking).



so it'll blend in perfectly with my white STH10, white keyboard, & white mouse. 

mayhem's super cooling semen solution.


----------



## Mayhem

skupples, were in the world are you?


----------



## Hequaqua

skupples said:


> so it'll blend in perfectly with my white STH10, white keyboard, & white mouse.
> 
> mayhem's super cooling semen solution.


Mayhem's CMen Coolant :thumb:

500ml will fill my loop.....

EDIT: Or Mayhem's CMN(Coolant Mayhem Nano)....lmao


----------



## Mayhem

hand made .....


----------



## skupples

Mayhem said:


> skupples, were in the world are you?



Florida.




Mayhem said:


> hand made .....



watch out for chafing.


----------



## Shawnb99

That sperm color will stand out in my black TH10. I'm going to have a "hard" time not calling it Mayhem's semen fluid, or XTR Semen I haven't decided yet what sounds better.


----------



## dwolvin

I'm interested no matter the color!


----------



## Shawnb99

So if I spill it does it leave a big sticky mess?


----------



## ciarlatano

Mayhem said:


> It is a slight off white colour (a lot of ppl have said sperm looking).


Ah, perfect. My build is all black and white. Will look great in my MMRS that has white D5 cover, white fittings and white tension rods.....
@Shawnb99 - I believe the big sticky mess is over in that thread where they deny flow rate having affect on temps.....


----------



## skupples

ciarlatano said:


> Ah, perfect. My build is all black and white. Will look great in my MMRS that has white D5 cover, white fittings and white tension rods.....
> 
> @Shawnb99 - I believe the big sticky mess is over in that thread where they deny flow rate having affect on temps.....


we're still doing that on OCN? What happened to critical thinking? I guess critical thinking and contrarian iconoclasm simply can't exist at the same time? 
please show me where... I have proof they're wrong from this awesome thing called a flow meter, temp sensor, & aquaSWEET


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> we're still doing that on OCN? What happened to critical thinking? I guess critical thinking and contrarian iconoclasm simply can't exist at the same time?
> please show me where... I have proof they're wrong from this awesome thing called a flow meter, temp sensor, & aquaSWEET


Oh....that proof has been put out there by many, including @Shawnb99, but it falls on deaf ears. All the big CLC trolls are in this one,you can start around here - https://www.overclock.net/forum/246...lers-better-than-aio-clc-47.html#post28560656


----------



## Mayhem

Shawnb99 said:


> So if I spill it does it leave a big sticky mess?


actually your not far off.


----------



## war4peace

I am interested in testing it out on my beefy machine.
Using dual-pump, dual-GPU (1080 Ti), X99 monoblock with a overclocked 6800K underneath, flow meter, Aquaero and a MoRa 420.
Right now the fluid is Pastel White, and I have bought copper tubing which will replace all my soft tubing that I currently have on my machine.
I also plan on replacing the dual-D5 pumps with a more powerful Eheim 1262 pump (I will order it tomorrow).

So if you want to know how does the XTR behave in a PC which consumes 900W of power at maximum, let me know. The color is awesome because I like white and won't mind the color at all.
FWIW I have Addressable RGB lighting in my box, powered by Farbwerk 360, so I will be able to test how light works with this fluid.

I live in the EU.


----------



## skupples

ciarlatano said:


> Oh....that proof has been put out there by many, including @*Shawnb99* , but it falls on deaf ears. All the big CLC trolls are in this one,you can start around here - https://www.overclock.net/forum/246...lers-better-than-aio-clc-47.html#post28560656



i don't even care that i was slightly off-topic and mildly hyperbolic. the people I called out know who they are  

funny how they've boiled it down to "we meant flow only doesn't matter when discussing AIOs!"


----------



## pilotter

I am currently building a new system.

A waterloop has been build in the case, radiators and Fans are in, all controllable via Aquasuite ( on seperate laptop

Radiators have been flushed with Blitz 1 according instructions
loop has been flushed with Blitz part 2. according instructions.

curently loop is running on destilled water and a filter. 

What do I need to do before I leave?

drain the sytem?
Leave destilled water in?
or fill with mayhems X1 Clear ( but that means I have to buy new again when I install the main blocks and components.


----------



## Avacado

pilotter said:


> I am currently building a new system.
> 
> A waterloop has been build in the case, radiators and Fans are in, all controllable via Aquasuite ( on seperate laptop
> 
> Radiators have been flushed with Blitz 1 according instructions
> loop has been flushed with Blitz part 2. according instructions.
> 
> curently loop is running on destilled water and a filter.
> 
> What do I need to do before I leave?
> 
> drain the sytem?
> Leave destilled water in?
> or fill with mayhems X1 Clear ( but that means I have to buy new again when I install the main blocks and components.


What exactly are you waiting on to arrive and how long would you be leaving the distilled in the loop before you can add X1?

I can understand running Part 1 in the rads and draining, but I don't understand why you would run part 2 without having all the components to complete your loop. You want part 2 to run WITH all of your components added, not just the rads.


----------



## pilotter

*[email protected]*



Avacado said:


> What exactly are you waiting on to arrive and how long would you be leaving the distilled in the loop before you can add X1?
> 
> I can understand running Part 1 in the rads and draining, but I don't understand why you would run part 2 without having all the components to complete your loop. You want part 2 to run WITH all of your components added, not just the rads.


this is a slow build preparing for new Gpu Cards and new system. All is custom sleeving etc. it was just for testing and cleaning the hoses and resevoir.


----------



## Avacado

pilotter said:


> this is a slow build preparing for new Gpu Cards and new system. All is custom sleeving etc. it was just for testing and cleaning the hoses and resevoir.


Without knowing how long you are going to leave distilled in your loop by itself, I can not recommend doing so. I would drain the loop and let it dry as best as I could to avoid any growth.

What case is that, looks sick. Are those 200mm intake fans in the front?


----------



## pilotter

that's the Thermal Take view 51. It has an option for 2 200 mm fans in front and top. I have them only in front. Noctua's chromax, been searching like creazy for them.

all is running by Aquasuite.

I will drain and add Mayhem X1 eco for the time.


----------



## Avacado

pilotter said:


> that's the Thermal Take view 51. It has an option for 2 200 mm fans in front and top. I have them only in front. Noctua's chromax, been searching like creazy for them.
> 
> all is running by Aquasuite.
> 
> I will drain and add Mayhem X1 eco for the time.


Might consider buying one, always wanted to do 200/400mm rads


----------



## pilotter

in the view 51 there is no space for a 400mm rad ( maybe after modding )< I have them for air intake.

in the side there is a 360 and on top also.


----------



## Mayhem

Avacado said:


> Without knowing how long you are going to leave distilled in your loop by itself, I can not recommend doing so. I would drain the loop and let it dry as best as I could to avoid any growth.


What Avacardo has said, drain and air dry and dont let it sit.


----------



## Zyther

Seeing as I cant get Mayhems X1 here locally and shipping is triple the price of the product .

How close is Corsairs XL5 to X1? https://www.corsair.com/ww/en//Cate...oling/Coolant/hydro-x-coolant/p/CX-9060001-WW

Anyone know if the Mayhems non stain dye is safe to use with it?
https://www.mayhems.net/collections/non-staining-dyes/products/mayhems-non-stain-blue-dye-15ml


----------



## XtachiX

I'm using Meyhems Pastel UV Green


----------



## JasonMorris

Anybody know when Mayhems Bubble A-Way 10ml will be available?
cheers.


----------



## ThrashZone

JasonMorris said:


> Anybody know when Mayhems Bubble A-Way 10ml will be available?
> cheers.


Hi,
Drop or two of dish soap will do the same thing.


----------



## skupples

^^ that. it saves animals, AND purges your system in minutes, that's right! one drop of Dawn does it all. (if real dawn, use tiny drop.)



been doing that for AGES.


nukes purging time by 90%, easily.


----------



## ppkstat

I ve never used dish soap in the past for this purpose. Are they all safe to use? Dawn is not available here. Is there anything to watch on the ingredients?

Perhaps a drop or two of blitz part 2 would be a better alternative?


----------



## dwolvin

Really any soap will do for surfactant duty, the less perfume and color the better but really that's just personal opinion.


----------



## skupples

^^


buy a $1 bottle of dyeless & scentless. no need for the extra stuff. N you're legitimately only using a speck. You'll notice the difference immediately if you've ever purged a system before. 



i've used a grain of AJAX in the past as well.


----------



## ppkstat

skupples said:


> ^^
> 
> 
> buy a $1 bottle of dyeless & scentless. no need for the extra stuff.


Very hard to find something like that locally at the moment. Perhaps a drop or 2 of undiluted blitz part 2 will do?


----------



## dwolvin

I'd stick to dish soap, but I have to admit it's just because I've never used blitz...


----------



## skupples

what? no. don't use blitz as a bubble purger. 



don't worry about it if you can't get ajax powder/liquid dish soap. it just to speed up the purging process.


----------



## ThrashZone

ppkstat said:


> Very hard to find something like that locally at the moment. Perhaps a drop or 2 of undiluted blitz part 2 will do?


Hi,
Any grease cutting dish soap.


----------



## Mayhem

Lol bubble away isn't a surfactent lol. We cannot mass make it, To be as simple as possible its to dammed hard to get into a 15ml bottle. The product is extremely thick and takes way to long to get in a bottle. You only need a tiny tiny drop in a system for it to work but as said its near impossible to get in a dropper bottle. This is why we haven't released also its dammed expensive to make.


----------



## SteezyTN

How long is it okay to leave just plain distilled water in the loop while running... in terms of bacteria? I’m waiting on a few things to complete my build, then will run Blitz part 2 and add Nuke V2. I just ran the system for a week, and just now emptied it.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> Lol bubble away isn't a surfactent lol. We cannot mass make it, To be as simple as possible its to dammed hard to get into a 15ml bottle. The product is extremely thick and takes way to long to get in a bottle. You only need a tiny tiny drop in a system for it to work but as said its near impossible to get in a dropper bottle. This is why we haven't released also its dammed expensive to make.



How about selling it in say a 1L bottle or something bigger then the 15ml ones if size is an issue?
I’d be interested in buying a litre or it, as it long it doesn’t go bad i could use it for as long as it’s good for.


----------



## Madmaxneo

If you guys are still looking for testers for your new coolant I might be interested. I am in the US though. Let me know!


----------



## war4peace

@Mayhem I am closing in to redoing my entire PC, I need to know if you'd like me to test the new coolant or not.
Old School Eheim 1262 pump, copper tubing, MoRa 420, dual-GPU, motherboard Monoblock, the build can push 900W of power at full load.
I live in the EU.


----------



## dwolvin

SteezyTN said:


> How long is it okay to leave just plain distilled water in the loop while running... in terms of bacteria? I’m waiting on a few things to complete my build, then will run Blitz part 2 and add Nuke V2. I just ran the system for a week, and just now emptied it.


YMMV of course, but if the system was clean, and the distilled fresh you should be good to go for a week or two. I've run a month...


----------



## war4peace

I had a throwavay loop (a precursor of the Raijintek PHORCYS), which I tested, and poured distilled water in it. Used it to test stuff for a couple months, then left it as it was for almost a year, with water in it, untouched.
There was no growth, no color change, no performance degradation.
Could be I was extremely lucky... but all I can say it there was no problem with it.


----------



## SteezyTN

Question for @Mayhem

I'm currently waiting on some fittings (the company I bought them from sent them the slowest way possible with no tracking, and I have already been waiting two weeks for them), and was wondering if it is okay to run Blitz part two with some "filler" fittings while I wait. If I were to run part 2, and then put the new fittings in the rig, would this cause any issues? Im just so anxious to get my build up and running. Ill be adding Nuke V2.


----------



## Avacado

SteezyTN said:


> Question for @Mayhem
> 
> I'm currently waiting on some fittings (the company I bought them from sent them the slowest way possible with no tracking, and I have already been waiting two weeks for them), and was wondering if it is okay to run Blitz part two with some "filler" fittings while I wait. If I were to run part 2, and then put the new fittings in the rig, would this cause any issues? Im just so anxious to get my build up and running. Ill be adding Nuke V2.


I know you are wanting an official response from Mick, but cleaning out fittings is usually of secondary importance to the main blocks/rads for part 2. HIGHLY unlikely not cleaning the fittings with part 2 would be an issue. You could always put all of the fittings in a bucket with a bit of part 2 and slosh em around when they do arrive.


----------



## Mayhem

Shawnb99 said:


> How about selling it in say a 1L bottle or something bigger then the 15ml ones if size is an issue?
> I’d be interested in buying a litre or it, as it long it doesn’t go bad i could use it for as long as it’s good for.


The stuff is £4,800 + VAT for just 25 Ltrs, and only a drop is needed in 50 Ltrs of fluid. So 1 Ltr as you can imagine would be pretty expensive.


----------



## Mayhem

SteezyTN said:


> Question for @Mayhem
> 
> I'm currently waiting on some fittings (the company I bought them from sent them the slowest way possible with no tracking, and I have already been waiting two weeks for them), and was wondering if it is okay to run Blitz part two with some "filler" fittings while I wait. If I were to run part 2, and then put the new fittings in the rig, would this cause any issues? Im just so anxious to get my build up and running. Ill be adding Nuke V2.


Its a bit pointless. If you waiting for stuff to come the best possible thing to do its clean, flush and dry out and wait for every thing to arrive. Do not let water stand in any product ever this causes issues. Even if it has biocide or inhibitor in it as these need movement to be productive. Standing fluid is always bad over a length of time. In a sealed system with little air this is a little different.


----------



## Mayhem

Guys and girls Ref full water cooling yes i have been doing it for far to long and i know "a bit" but there are people out there who know more than me and can also give better advise then me. I'm no expert and i will never claim to be, i do not test every piece of equipment on the market (all though i do test / play with a lot). The best advise i can ever give people is read lots of forum posts and make up your own mind, use your common sense as this is 90% of all that is needed in water cooling. Yes enjoy watching you tube videos but never take them as the 100% answer to every thing. Ref reviews they do not do long term testing (only about 3 people who i know do) they are not 100% perfect and there views are if at best a minimal response to some thing they have tested. Simply put do what you think is best.


----------



## SteezyTN

Avacado said:


> SteezyTN said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question for @Mayhem
> 
> I'm currently waiting on some fittings (the company I bought them from sent them the slowest way possible with no tracking, and I have already been waiting two weeks for them), and was wondering if it is okay to run Blitz part two with some "filler" fittings while I wait. If I were to run part 2, and then put the new fittings in the rig, would this cause any issues? Im just so anxious to get my build up and running. Ill be adding Nuke V2.
> 
> 
> 
> I know you are wanting an official response from Mick, but cleaning out fittings is usually of secondary importance to the main blocks/rads for part 2. HIGHLY unlikely not cleaning the fittings with part 2 would be an issue. You could always put all of the fittings in a bucket with a bit of part 2 and slosh em around when they do arrive.
Click to expand...

It’s just four male to male rotaries that I’ll be using for valves to drain my loop. I’m slightly annoyed that it’s been two weeks as Spartan decided to ship it the slowest way possible with no tracking. Hard to tell when they will arrive. I was honestly thinking about this idea, and I may just as well do this.


----------



## SteezyTN

Questions about XT-1 Nuke V2. I just put two bottles of concentrate in my loop after running blitz part 2. I did a concentration of 500ml coolant and 2000ml distilled. But my temps are definitely higher than just regular distilled water. Why is this? The water temps are idling almost 4c higher.


----------



## ciarlatano

SteezyTN said:


> Questions about XT-1 Nuke V2. I just put two bottles of concentrate in my loop after running blitz part 2. I did a concentration of 500ml coolant and 2000ml distilled. But my temps are definitely higher than just regular distilled water. Why is this? The water temps are idling almost 4c higher.


Did you try the 1:10 mix recommended for computer systems, rather than the 1:4 mix you currently have that is recommended to provide frost protection for sub-zero applications? Or are you using a chiller?

You are going to be very hard pressed to find any liquid that has better cooling properties than straight distilled, and even harder pressed to find one with anti-corrosives and algae inhibitors. So, it comes down to, do you want a loop at 26 degrees that doesn't corrode or grow things, or one at 25 degrees that needs to have parts replaced and be cleaned constantly because it is full of bacteria and algae?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah coolants are just like plug and play premix or concentrates once mixed

Distilled water you could use mayhems inhibitor+ and biocide+ drops to maintain ph7 but it's just more maintenance to test ph every month... but will cool best and frankly won't cloud clear soft tubing either.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Mayhem is is possible to get longer lengths of your glass tubing? Looking for something like 750mm in length. Same for longer sizes in the bent tubing


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> @Mayhem is is possible to get longer lengths of your glass tubing? Looking for something like 750mm in length. Same for longer sizes in the bent tubing


Would like to know the answers to these questions as well.


----------



## dotXeno

Quick question, it may have been asked before but can't see it. What is the difference between Mayhems X1 V2 vs Mayhems XT-1 V2.


----------



## Stephen.

Shawnb99 said:


> @Mayhem is is possible to get longer lengths of your glass tubing? Looking for something like 750mm in length. Same for longer sizes in the bent tubing


I don't recall where I read it, but I definitely saw a post somewhere ( not on here ) where Mayhem was saying you could pretty much fabricate a length or a specific bend or bends you need, say out of PETG, ship it to them, and the company that does their glass tubing can bend it to the specs you provide. Probably pretty expensive, but worth it, if you're willing to go through the steps. I love borosilicate as well, and yes the Mayhems pre-bent length usually come up short for a specific bend length you need. That's why I stick to the fittings, plus I like the look of it.


----------



## Shawnb99

Stephen. said:


> I don't recall where I read it, but I definitely saw a post somewhere ( not on here ) where Mayhem was saying you could pretty much fabricate a length or a specific bend or bends you need, say out of PETG, ship it to them, and the company that does their glass tubing can bend it to the specs you provide. Probably pretty expensive, but worth it, if you're willing to go through the steps. I love borosilicate as well, and yes the Mayhems pre-bent length usually come up short for a specific bend length you need. That's why I stick to the fittings, plus I like the look of it.



Hmm Thanks. That may be an option.


----------



## Stephen.

Shawnb99 said:


> Hmm Thanks. That may be an option.


See what Mayhem says, if they'll do it. Or if you come across a glass blower who can do it locally. I'm actually going to buy a bunch of 16mm OD x 2.5mm Simax tubing, and just practice until I get it. Still trying to figure out a good heat setup for it. I think my acetylene torch would be a little too hot for the process. Gotta invest in a good Bunsen burner. But for now it's straight cuts in the jig, chamfer, and glass polish the ends with a bernzomatic torch. 😎


----------



## Mortix

after 2 years of using mayhems white pastel(with sys prep part 1 + 2), the loop is in bad condition


----------



## dwolvin

Eewww. But hopefully you can clean the loop / tubes and just move to something clear?


----------



## garyd9

Mortix said:


> after 2 years of using mayhems white pastel(with sys prep part 1 + 2), the loop is in bad condition


Is it only the outlet on that one CPU that has all that crud in the tubing? That seems kind of unusual - I wonder what's going on inside that block.

How often over the 2 years have you drained/flushed the loop?


----------



## Mortix

garyd9 said:


> Is it only the outlet on that one CPU that has all that crud in the tubing? That seems kind of unusual - I wonder what's going on inside that block.
> 
> How often over the 2 years have you drained/flushed the loop?


----------



## Stephen.

I like their Blitz products, but this is the reason why I stick with clear coolants. I use either Aquacomputers DP Ultra or Koolance 705. Two years is a bit of a stretch, my OCD I strip it down every 6 months, even if its clean just to check everything. That Cuplex Kryos needs a lemon juice bath badly.


----------



## dwolvin

Mostly agreed, I keep my cleaning simple, don't touch anything during reassembly, and just use distilled and enough concentrate to keep the bugs away. EK to start, now using Mayhems. I think the Mayhem's might cause less evaporation, but it could be I figured out which barb needed an extra 1/8 turn last time I put it together. coolant doesn't need to be as rocket science as it's made out to be- rinse thoroughly after cleaning, don't blow in / touch anything (internal) during assembly, steal underpants Profit! I like there to be a little color so I can see the level in the res / overflow, and for leak checks...


----------



## Mayhem

Long time coming, lots of work and we're getting close with XTR
We've been testing colour and can do any colour ... Just a few quick play sessions

I don't know yet what release colour will be if and when we get around to it, but as of the end of this month pastel will no longer be supported (we stopped making it in Feb/March).


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> Long time coming, lots of work and we're getting close with XTR
> We've been testing colour and can do any colour ... Just a few quick play sessions
> 
> I don't know yet what release colour will be if and when we get around to it, but as of the end of this month pastel will no longer be supported (we stopped making it in Feb/March).
> 
> View attachment 2462758
> 
> View attachment 2462759
> 
> View attachment 2462760





Mayhem said:


> Long time coming, lots of work and we're getting close with XTR
> We've been testing colour and can do any colour ... Just a few quick play sessions
> 
> I don't know yet what release colour will be if and when we get around to it, but as of the end of this month pastel will no longer be supported (we stopped making it in Feb/March).
> 
> View attachment 2462758
> 
> View attachment 2462759
> 
> View attachment 2462760


Dibs on the white. Where can I forward my money for the pre-order?


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> Long time coming, lots of work and we're getting close with XTR
> We've been testing colour and can do any colour ... Just a few quick play sessions
> 
> I don't know yet what release colour will be if and when we get around to it, but as of the end of this month pastel will no longer be supported (we stopped making it in Feb/March).
> 
> View attachment 2462758
> 
> View attachment 2462759
> 
> View attachment 2462760



Sweet. I'm so ordering 5L when I can.


----------



## broodro0ster

Mayhem said:


> Long time coming, lots of work and we're getting close with XTR
> We've been testing colour and can do any colour ... Just a few quick play sessions
> 
> I don't know yet what release colour will be if and when we get around to it, but as of the end of this month pastel will no longer be supported (we stopped making it in Feb/March).
> 
> View attachment 2462758
> 
> View attachment 2462759
> 
> View attachment 2462760


That's great to see! I was so sad to see that pastel went away, but if we get XTR with colors, them it's very close to pastel in terms of looks with better performance. 
I'm really happy to read this. If you're still looking for people to (colored) XTR, let me know


----------



## Mayhem

Id love to give some amazing results to show you about the thermal efficacy ... under testing different users have reported different thermal loads, some better than standard liquid cooling some the same (no difference). So over all its subjective and we cannot make any claims that are not 10000000% true. I can just say XTR is like nothing released before, Its a brand new concept, brand new way of doing it, utilising all home grown products (uk) ect ect. it is a 100% mayhem's product. I can also say that a full world wide patent is going in but details about all of this will be released at a later date. We are still testing and new version will soon being going out to users.

Once were ready we will update pricing and info on our site and go from there. Reseller wise we will only be shipping to a few companies to start with as manufacturing this is not easy (far from it). and i have no doubt once ready it will be a good seller. But people will probably find bugs in the ointment and we will keep pushing to improve it. This product is been worked from the ground up with no expense speared and has taken many years to be able to get this far.

When covid is over i hopefully will post a video log or pictures of the manufacturing process we are using and how some of it is done. Many of you will be surprised on how far mayhems has progressed now and were all you hard earned money has gone when buying our products. Its definitely not into my pocket.

As for pastel, that was my baby and years of work went into making it work, i wish the company who supplied us the base product didn't do what they did how ever that is out of our hands alas that is life and we must move on. We lost a lot of money, a lot of work and a lot of faith when that went to poo.


----------



## dwolvin

I really feel this has been mentioned, so please forgive if so...

This is going to be ready-made only (no concentrate)?


----------



## Mayhem

It will be ready-made for starters, the concentrate is not so easy to create as everything is done inline and the processes to make the product requires extreme heat and atmospheric pressures. However, it is something we are working on.....


----------



## dwolvin

Good to know, thank you!


----------



## Barefooter

That dark blue color looks like it will work perfect in my next build


----------



## Mayhem

We are pushing for the stuff to be out before Xmass, however, getting the final detail and price down is not easy. The problem with XTR is the manufacturing of it is extremely complex and costly. Ill keep you all updated but with all the new work weve been doing its not leaving much time :/.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> We are pushing for the stuff to be out before Xmass, however, getting the final detail and price down is not easy. The problem with XTR is the manufacturing of it is extremely complex and costly. Ill keep you all updated but with all the new work weve been doing its not leaving much time :/.


By Xmas works out near perfect for me. Let me know as soon as your taking orders.


----------



## Mayhem

*Shawnb99 *Ref longer lengths of glass, We can do it but you'll have a heart attack at the shipping prices and chances are high it will get damaged. We test shipped some 1m lengths to 1 user and out of the 10 pieces sent only 4 survived.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> *Shawnb99 *Ref longer lengths of glass, We can do it but you'll have a heart attack at the shipping prices and chances are high it will get damaged. We test shipped some 1m lengths to 1 user and out of the 10 pieces sent only 4 survived.


Thanks. Yeah I didn't even think of shipping damage. No worries I went Acrylic anyways


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
lol yeah dsl/ fedex/ ups/ usps all suck.


----------



## Sir Beregond

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> lol yeah dsl/ fedex/ ups/ usps all suck.


The worst is OnTrac.


----------



## Mayhem

"My Hermes" in the UK is the worst. They actually "Steal" your parcels then sell them on at a auction. In all the years of shipping weve been doing DHL for us have been the best so far with minimal loss and no qualms refunds to us.


----------



## Mayhem

Bad news Good news.

Bad news Pastel Support has ended.
Good News Mayhems XTR will is going to production status.


----------



## dwolvin

Nice!

Side question since I'm about to re-tube my system; Does XT-1 have any preferred soft tube? Any I should stay away from?


----------



## Mayhem

Primochill suggest not to use it with there tubing.


----------



## ThrashZone

dwolvin said:


> Nice!
> 
> Side question since I'm about to re-tube my system; Does XT-1 have any preferred soft tube? Any I should stay away from?


Hi,
I'm using modmymods.com water it's XT-1 and I use their clear PVC soft tubing seems great 
ModMyMods ModWater PC Coolant- Clear – 1 Liter (MOD-0275) - Clear Liquid - Liquid ModMyMods.com - PC Watercooling Parts and Accessories


ModMyMods 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD Flexible PVC Tubing - Crystal Clear (MOD-0003) - 3/8” ID x 5/8” OD Soft Tubing - Tubing ModMyMods.com - PC Watercooling Parts and Accessories


----------



## dwolvin

Fair enough, I actually found Mayhem's clear tube for a reasonable price, so that will show up in a week or so.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> Bad news Good news.
> 
> Bad news Pastel Support has ended.
> Good News Mayhems XTR will is going to production status.


When can I make my first order?


----------



## ThrashZone

dwolvin said:


> Fair enough, I actually found Mayhem's clear tube for a reasonable price, so that will show up in a week or so.


Hi,
I've used mayhems tubing hope you're using color fluids because the tubing clouds.
Mods doesn't.
Modmymods has mayhems tubing too usually half the cost of anywhere else.


----------



## Mayhem

Shawnb99 said:


> When can I make my first order?


Were working with the manufacturing plant on some things. Its going to be a few weeks and also having to work on labels. + the normal mayhem's stuff.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> Were working with the manufacturing plant on some things. Its going to be a few weeks and also having to work on labels. + the normal mayhem's stuff.


Am eagerly awaiting that. I'm down for 5-10L. Might try going colored but hardest part will be deciding on just one or two.


----------



## Mayhem

Might want to reiterate as this product is not cheap to make or manufacture, this is one of the issues were trying to resolve. Trying to get such a high tech product to such a niche market is not easy. If we can increase volumetric sales we can get the price down but that will take time.

I've updated my linked in account with a little more info ->









Bad news for some, Good news for others.


Bad news good news time. Bad news! Pastel is now obsolete and is no longer supported as of the 30/10/2020 Good news.




www.linkedin.com


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> Might want to reiterate as this product is not cheap to make or manufacture, this is one of the issues were trying to resolve. Trying to get such a high tech product to such a niche market is not easy. If we can increase volumetric sales we can get the price down but that will take time.
> 
> I've updated my linked in account with a little more info ->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad news for some, Good news for others.
> 
> 
> Bad news good news time. Bad news! Pastel is now obsolete and is no longer supported as of the 30/10/2020 Good news.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.linkedin.com


Around how much would we be looking at per litre or say for 5? I still want at least 5L of the white. I’m more concerned with shipping costs


----------



## Iceman2733

Mayhem said:


> Might want to reiterate as this product is not cheap to make or manufacture, this is one of the issues were trying to resolve. Trying to get such a high tech product to such a niche market is not easy. If we can increase volumetric sales we can get the price down but that will take time.
> 
> I've updated my linked in account with a little more info ->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad news for some, Good news for others.
> 
> 
> Bad news good news time. Bad news! Pastel is now obsolete and is no longer supported as of the 30/10/2020 Good news.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.linkedin.com



Well this is good to know, i literally just drained my Pastel UV green loops and was having trouble finding the replacement. My pastel green has been in my PC over a year with NO issues, your stuff is top notch no dang way I would run anything else other than Mayhems. 

You guys still looking at a before December launch?


----------



## ciarlatano

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I'm using modmymods.com water it's XT-1 and I use their clear PVC soft tubing seems great
> ModMyMods ModWater PC Coolant- Clear – 1 Liter (MOD-0275) - Clear Liquid - Liquid ModMyMods.com - PC Watercooling Parts and Accessories
> 
> 
> ModMyMods 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD Flexible PVC Tubing - Crystal Clear (MOD-0003) - 3/8” ID x 5/8” OD Soft Tubing - Tubing ModMyMods.com - PC Watercooling Parts and Accessories


Has there ever been documentation that it actually is XT-1? All I have ever seen is heresay, and not even directly from ModMyMods.


----------



## Avacado

ciarlatano said:


> Has there ever been documentation that it actually is XT-1? All I have ever seen is heresay, and not even directly from ModMyMods.


----------



## Mayhem

ciarlatano said:


> Has there ever been documentation that it actually is XT-1? All I have ever seen is heresay, and not even directly from ModMyMods.


Due to a gentleman's agreement, i won't say who we make for unless they say it first. which they have done in the past and yes we are part of the process.


----------



## Mayhem

Iceman2733 said:


> Well this is good to know, i literally just drained my Pastel UV green loops and was having trouble finding the replacement. My pastel green has been in my PC over a year with NO issues, your stuff is top notch no dang way I would run anything else other than Mayhems.
> 
> You guys still looking at a before December launch?


yes before December is my goal


----------



## Mayhem

Shawnb99 said:


> Around how much would we be looking at per litre or say for 5? I still want at least 5L of the white. I’m more concerned with shipping costs


I haven't got a clue XTR is a lot heavier than pastel.


----------



## dwolvin

Oh- is it much denser than water? Is the viscosity different?


----------



## ciarlatano

Mayhem said:


> Due to a gentleman's agreement, i won't say who we make for unless they say it first. which they have done in the past and yes we are part of the process.


Thanks for confirming! I can add that to the recommended coolants list....well..."list" being "use Mayhems".


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> I haven't got a clue XTR is a lot heavier than pastel.


No problem. Please let me know when it’s ready for sale.


----------



## ThrashZone

ciarlatano said:


> Has there ever been documentation that it actually is XT-1? All I have ever seen is heresay, and not even directly from ModMyMods.


Hi,
I added all mayhems responses here even the T-shirt offer 








ModMyMods.com premix Fluids is made from Mayhems...


Hi, Modmymods has clear coolant and a discount code for one free using coolant at checkout add 2 to cart one is free Turns out modmymods uses x1 clear concentrate and local distilled water It's only 8.99 per liter saving 5.00 at the least ! plus one for free is a great deal...




www.overclock.net


----------



## ciarlatano

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I added all mayhems responses here even the T-shirt offer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ModMyMods.com premix Fluids is made from Mayhems...
> 
> 
> Hi, Modmymods has clear coolant and a discount code for one free using coolant at checkout add 2 to cart one is free Turns out modmymods uses x1 clear concentrate and local distilled water It's only 8.99 per liter saving 5.00 at the least ! plus one for free is a great deal...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net


Thanks!

Now I want that hoodie.....


----------



## ThrashZone

ciarlatano said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Now I want that hoodie.....


Hi,
lol yeah hoodies too


----------



## Mayhem

With mod my mods what has happen is, i taught them how to produce the water and sent them most of the equipment to get them going so they can produce it locally (this has cut the manufacturing costs for them greatly), I also supply them the base mixes and colours and they then replicate my work here in the UK (to my standards). This saves a fortune on shipping and allows them to produce there own branded product which is equally as good as mayhems. They did suggest that i fly over to the USA to do some of this but for me it wasn't needed and i do not like to see companies and people waste money. XT-1 is a massive seller and a good product and im proud to see Mod my mods re sell our work over in the USA. The aim of Mayhems is not to rip the eyes out of our users but to provide you with a product that is the best at a price we can all afford, ill never get rich from it but i do not care. We have other companies in other parts of the world also interested in what we have done with mod my mods who wish to have there own branded coolants made locally to them.... Greed is not in my vocabulary.


----------



## Mayhem

Pre warning UK may (will be) going into forced lockdown, this could cause a delay in XTR as seen in the past when this happened. Its all to do with infrastructure, panic buying ect ect.


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> Pre warning UK may (will be) going into forced lockdown, this could cause a delay in XTR as seen in the past when this happened. Its all to do with infrastructure, panic buying ect ect.


To be expected. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## Happy Trails

Mayhem said:


> Pre warning UK may (will be) going into forced lockdown


 very sad news


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
yeah wild 4 weeks 
Hope Binen don't win we'll be the same shoes and likely longer dems taste power and they get drunk on it.


----------



## Mayhem

Oh im glad i do'nt live in the USA... Thats all i can say.


----------



## DarthBaggins

^LMAO.. 
Nice to know that info on Mod my Mods, good group running that company.


----------



## ThrashZone

DarthBaggins said:


> ^LMAO..
> Nice to know that info on Mod my Mods, good group running that company.


Hi,
Yeah shipping is a little high but they do pack stuff well.
Fluids they put in zip lock bags.


----------



## Mayhem

We may have gone into lock down But !!!!!!!

*XTR has just gone into full production*.

We will be making just "white" to start with (might be able to do a few base colours depending on time) and rolling out colours along the way. 250ml version need more testing as we have a few things to iron out. When we make the coolants they are pushed though a "high heat" and "high pressure" system and fused so trying to make a concentrate will be a little harder and we need a little more testing to move forwards before we release.

As per normal we fully recommend a "Mayhems Blitz" of the system New or old before using XTR. If you used Part one (acid clean) in the past you'll only need to do the Basic (part two) clean. And sorry to say yes even EK kits need cleaning there not gods at removal of debris from there rads no matter what they say and hot water does jack on its own.

next up designing the stickers / labels.

We have put a lot of effort into the new coolants but we are not 100% perfect and expect some users could find issues we haven't managed to track down. The best way forwards is for people to contact us directly with any issues they fined, we will need full specs of the system and hardware used. We will also need samples back for analysis (we will cover all shipping costs) so we can find issues fast and fix them. With all the hardware we have on hand and the team we are working we we should be able to quickly fix any issues found and resolve them as fast as humanly possible. Remember Mayhems XTR is a Fully synthetic product designed from the ground up.

Welcome to the next step in liquid cooling.

Innovation is not easy copying is.

p.s once were happy we will start looking into Aurora again ... We have learnt so much from the production of XTR we think we may be able to create a fully synthetic version Aurora that is 24/7/360 ... how ever that will take time.


----------



## mattxx88

Mayhem said:


> . Remember Mayhems XTR is a Fully synthetic product


can i use it on the engine of my car? 
just joking , glad to hear that


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> We may have gone into lock down But !!!!!!!
> 
> *XTR has just gone into full production*.
> 
> We will be making just "white" to start with (might be able to do a few base colours depending on time) and rolling out colours along the way. 250ml version need more testing as we have a few things to iron out. When we make the coolants they are pushed though a "high heat" and "high pressure" system and fused so trying to make a concentrate will be a little harder and we need a little more testing to move forwards before we release.
> 
> As per normal we fully recommend a "Mayhems Blitz" of the system New or old before using XTR. If you used Part one (acid clean) in the past you'll only need to do the Basic (part two) clean. And sorry to say yes even EK kits need cleaning there not gods at removal of debris from there rads no matter what they say and hot water does jack on its own.
> 
> next up designing the stickers / labels.
> 
> We have put a lot of effort into the new coolants but we are not 100% perfect and expect some users could find issues we haven't managed to track down. The best way forwards is for people to contact us directly with any issues they fined, we will need full specs of the system and hardware used. We will also need samples back for analysis (we will cover all shipping costs) so we can find issues fast and fix them. With all the hardware we have on hand and the team we are working we we should be able to quickly fix any issues found and resolve them as fast as humanly possible. Remember Mayhems XTR is a Fully synthetic product designed from the ground up.
> 
> Welcome to the next step in liquid cooling.
> 
> Innovation is not easy copying is.
> 
> p.s once were happy we will start looking into Aurora again ... We have learnt so much from the production of XTR we think we may be able to create a fully synthetic version Aurora that is 24/7/360 ... how ever that will take time.


Awesome! Distro ETA? Usual merchant suspects?


----------



## Happy Trails

mattxx88 said:


> can i use it on the engine of my car?
> just joking , glad to hear that


I accidentally gargled it this morning brushing the teeth. Its a little strong but ok. 

Very happy with blitz 1 & 2. Using biocide and inhibitors just clear mix very awesome for my loop. Must admit the stuff with colors iis intrigueing.


----------



## ciarlatano

Mayhem said:


> And sorry to say yes even EK kits need cleaning there not gods at removal of debris from there rads no matter what they say and hot water does jack on its own.


But...but....the unicorns come and clean EK products with faerie dust! When things go bad, it's the other companies' fault!!!

I've always wondered who they blame when they get the "the CryoFuel in my all EK loop is completely gunked up in my blocks". Do they blame the case mfg? 

Big congrats on getting this into production! Looking forward to changing over on my next refill!


----------



## Shawnb99

Ill ta


ciarlatano said:


> I've always wondered who they blame when they get the "the CryoFuel in my all EK loop is completely gunked up in my blocks". Do they blame the case mfg?


They lie and claim it was just one bad batch, won’t happen again until it does then they blame everything else.


----------



## Happy Trails

ciarlatano said:


> ....the unicorns come and clean EK products with faerie dust!


its amazing to behold 🦄🦄🦄


----------



## Barefooter

Exciting news on the coolant front!

There's a nice article on this coolant in the last edition of Maximum PC magazine too.


----------



## Mayhem

mattxx88 said:


> can i use it on the engine of my car?
> just joking , glad to hear that


 Its in my GT86 .


----------



## Mayhem

Barefooter said:


> Exciting news on the coolant front!
> 
> There's a nice article on this coolant in the last edition of Maximum PC magazine too.


 is there, got a scan for me to read  pleaseeeeeeeee.


----------



## Mayhem

Just got a Copy.... They tested v3, were onto V4 now which is much stronger and even whiter, and the colours pop more. We have reduced its cooling capability for the moment and concentrated on just getting it into a fully working product. We listened to our testers and did some changes as per there requests (yes b-neg im looking at you  ) ..... So what maximum PC tested was V3 were now on V4. They will get V4 once we are ready. p.s Why is maximum PC so dammed good.. in the UK its nothing like the detail that maximum have gone into (100% impressed and 100000% proud).


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> Just got a Copy.... They tested v3, were onto V4 now which is much stronger and even whiter, and the colours pop more. We have reduced its cooling capability for the moment and concentrated on just getting it into a fully working product. We listened to our testers and did some changes as per there requests (yes b-neg im looking at you  ) ..... So what maximum PC tested was V3 were now on V4. They will get V4 once we are ready. p.s Why is maximum PC so dammed good.. in the UK its nothing like the detail that maximum have gone into (100% impressed and 100000% proud).


Quite frankly were all very happy for you. Was just talking to my wife about how great it is to have a rapport with the creator of products that we all use daily. This is the kind of thing that makes customers for life.


----------



## Mayhem

Thank you Avacado, just remember i'm no different than any of you, Water cooling is my hobby and my passion and like every one else i learn every day. Just some times my passion get the better of me  hahaha


----------



## Shawnb99

Avacado said:


> Quite frankly were all very happy for you. Was just talking to my wife about how great it is to have a rapport with the creator of products that we all use daily. This is the kind of thing that makes customers for life.



Yep it’s for this reason alone Mayhems is my only fluid choice and always will be and whenever anyone asks for fluids it’s always Mayhem, Mayhem, Mayhem. Nothing else comes close.

Speaking of colours when can we expect say black or gold?


----------



## Barefooter

Mayhem said:


> is there, got a scan for me to read  pleaseeeeeeeee.


Was going to scan it for you, but no need now since you have a copy.

Maximum PC didn't even flush all the old coolant out either!

Was a fun read though since I'm a big Mayhem product fan.


----------



## ciarlatano

Avacado said:


> Quite frankly were all very happy for you. Was just talking to my wife about how great it is to have a rapport with the creator of products that we all use daily. This is the kind of thing that makes customers for life.





Mayhem said:


> Thank you Avacado, just remember i'm no different than any of you, Water cooling is my hobby and my passion and like every one else i learn every day. Just some times my passion get the better of me  hahaha


@Mayhem - In all honesty, you could be completely nameless and faceless, and I would still be using nothing but your products simply because they are the best available. The fact that you are in touch with your community of users and responsive to them is an added bonus that puts you over the top. You do it right.


----------



## Mayhem

Thast when i can get time to chat which has not been often lately, hopefully i can keep it up.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Is that what she said 🤐


----------



## Avacado

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Is that what she said 🤐


----------



## Mayhem

I personally Michael L Wood owner of Mayhems Solutions Ltd, would like to officially introduce Anna Wood as co-director of Mayhems. My daughter is now officially and legally a director and soon to be part owner of Mayhems Solutions Ltd. At the tender age of 19 years old shes learnt a lot over the years and can now nearly full run mayhem's on her own. https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.u... (she may be the youngest ever water cooling company director)... Signed one very proud father.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> I personally Michael L Wood owner of Mayhems Solutions Ltd, would like to officially introduce Anna Wood as co-director of Mayhems. My daughter is now officially and legally a director and soon to be part owner of Mayhems Solutions Ltd. At the tender age of 19 years old shes learnt a lot over the years and can now nearly full run mayhem's on her own. https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.u... (she may be the youngest ever water cooling company director)... Signed one very proud father.
> 
> 
> View attachment 2466859


I would like to be the to personally congratulate her. So how soon till you retire?


----------



## Mayhem

When i get the time i just would like to move to dev side only and let her do the rest. In the next few months, I've got a rather big op that needs doing on me that will put me personally out of action for at least 3 months.


----------



## ciarlatano

Mayhem said:


> When i get the time i just would like to move to dev side only and let her do the rest. In the next few months, I've got a rather big op that needs doing on me that will put me personally out of action for at least 3 months.


Best wishes on all of this. I hope all goes smoothly.


----------



## ThrashZone

^^^^^^
Hi,
Ditto above and welcome to the new generation


----------



## Happy Trails

The best wishes and contiuned successes!!


----------



## BradleyW

I'd love to give the XTR a go, but I've just purchased some XT-1 Nuke V2.


----------



## Mayhem

XTR Going though QC controls. Will be out with in the next 14 to 20 days.


----------



## Happy Trails

So used Blitz part 2 in system when first built pc. Coming up on time to do a maintenance flush so I have the question on how to use this properly. Does this work best when you put this in your system and just run it for 12-24hrs play the games or watch videos then drain and flush a few times?


----------



## ciarlatano

Happy Trails said:


> So used Blitz part 2 in system when first built pc. Coming up on time to do a maintenance flush so I have the question on how to use this properly. Does this work best when you put this in your system and just run it for 12-24hrs play the games or watch videos then drain and flush a few times?


Yes, that really is all there is to it.


----------



## Happy Trails

Thanks!!


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> XTR Going though QC controls. Will be out with in the next 14 to 20 days.


When can I start throwing my money at the screen?


----------



## Mayhem

12 to 14 days. Mayhems own shop is closing soon and being re diverted to a company who can do a better job than us. How ever they will be the first to get all the new products before any one else and they can do faster and better shipping methods than us. me and my daughter think we need to concentrate on supply / demand and start trying to keep up as this year our sales have simply been to much for us to handle on our own.


----------



## Shawnb99

Can you share with us the company that will be taking over? Want to see if I contact them abd arrange to order and ship some as soon as they get it in. Will they be taking over all sales like the blitz kits?


----------



## Mayhem

liquidgaming.co.uk (mayhems site will be named different) we have been working with them now for over 5 years and in the UK they are our biggest reseller in the UK. They order 5x more than any one else regular and also sell via amazon and Ebay and do there own support which has impressed us for a long time. They are a Family / friend run business and have a desire to grow larger.

They are taking over all Home user sales, we will see how that goes as they may end up taking over reseller sales at a later date but we will see.


----------



## Shawnb99

Thanks, sent them a message


----------



## Mayhem

www.mayhems.store is now live. All support will also be taken over on www.mayhems.store.


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> www.mayhems.store is now live. All support will also be taken over on www.mayhems.store.


Nice, sidenote, what is this? Never remember XTR being referred to as the liquid metal series. 

*XTR 6nm (Liquid Metal Series)*


----------



## Mayhem

Erm hahaha, ill get them to adjust, they have access to some of the new stuff were working on and have gotten mixed up. Will get them to remove that bit. (that's a bit embarrassing).


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> Erm hahaha, ill get them to adjust, they have access to some of the new stuff were working on and have gotten mixed up. Will get them to remove that bit. (that's a bit embarrassing).


I think i'm entitled to first dibs (Ah Hem) for pointing it out.

Is the SFX series new as well?


----------



## ezveedub

Did I miss something or was this always the case where a 250ML of X1 concentrate makes 1 liter of coolant? I thought it was 2 liters of coolant made from 250ML concentrate. That’s what it shows on PerfPCs site also. I know I’ve seen that on the older round bottles, but with the newer flat bottles its a different mixing ratio.

















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## ezveedub

I think I have other issues...this ain’t UV Yellow/Green









I hope these other concentrates look like this.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## ezveedub

All 3 concentrates are orange...not Yellow/Green UV. Gonna have to contact retailer on these. Now have system down until this gets sorted out :-/

For reference, the container on the left is the new coolant mixed 125ML to 875ML to make 1L...bottle on right is old UV Green/Yellow that’s tainted with old red dye from older system. The newer coolant is darker.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Mayhem

Who did you buy them from they are out of date! We haven't used square bottles in over 2 years. Ah PPC have contacted me, that stock should have been removed from sales a while ago. please contact PPc about this which I think you may have done already.


----------



## ezveedub

Mayhem said:


> Who did you buy them from they are out of date! We haven't used square bottles in over 2 years. Ah PPC have contacted me, that stock should have been removed from sales a while ago. please contact PPc about this which I think you may have done already.


Yes, it was PPCs. I went by yesterday to pick up UV Green instead and had to get premixed in the newer bottles. All the older square bottle concentrate inventory was caca, except one premix yellow green and one concentrate.


----------



## Avacado

Anyone have a few bottles of X1-Clear they can part with?


----------



## ezveedub

Avacado said:


> Anyone have a few bottles of X1-Clear they can part with?


Check ModMyMods website


----------



## Avacado

ezveedub said:


> Check ModMyMods website


I called Josh, they only have 1 in stock, not paying shipping on 1 bottle.


----------



## ciarlatano

Avacado said:


> I called Josh, they only have 1 in stock, not paying shipping on 1 bottle.


I have about 150ml in a bottle I opened a couple of months ago. Yours free! Just pay $39.99 S&H!


----------



## Shawnb99

I have a pair of bottles of UV Clear blue, it’s next to clear. Not sure how old they are, would be close to the 2 year mark if not over.


----------



## Happy Trails

It look delicious flavor


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah I've got some x1 clear not using
Some used and some new think 3-1/2 liters total after I went to mods water.
2 tall bottles and two short fat ones.

XT-1 is better or mods water


----------



## Mayhem

Merry Christmas from every one at mayhems to you all.


----------



## ciarlatano

Mayhem said:


> Merry Christmas from every one at mayhems to you all.


Same to you! Looking forward to a better 2021!


----------



## Avacado

Would be a better Xmas if I could get my hands on some XTR...


----------



## dwolvin

Silly question, but is XTR more or less likely to work it's way out through hose/barb junctures? IE: What's the viscosity compared to water?


----------



## hisXLNC

ootl, was xtr released any where or was it delayed because of covid and lockdowns?


----------



## Shawnb99

hisXLNC said:


> ootl, was xtr released any where or was it delayed because of covid and lockdowns?


Not released yet.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Not released yet.


Going to hold my up last order for this item lol.


----------



## Astral85

Question for @Mayhem 

I've had Mayhem ultra clear tubing running with Biocide/Inhibitor+ for around 7-8 months. I've had no issues with it and my loop however recently I've noticed some kind of flaky spots in the CPU out to top rad tube. It appears to be mainly be in that tube, the other tubes look pretty clear as well as the reservoir. Any idea what this is?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Almost appears to be air bubbles, but wonder if it's sediment from one of the rads or even plating or something that came loose. but that is curious.


----------



## dwolvin

Tube is fairly cheap- I'd flush in place a couple of times (just distilled), and then swap to new tube and refill with good coolant.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Mayhem any update on the release of the new fluids?


----------



## godboy

Is distilled with biocide+ / inhibitor+ safe with all tube types? I'd like to use it in 2 upcoming builds. 1 is EK ZMT black the other is EK duraclear.


----------



## Astral85

godboy said:


> Is distilled with biocide+ / inhibitor+ safe with all tube types? I'd like to use it in 2 upcoming builds. 1 is EK ZMT black the other is EK duraclear.


Do not use EK Duraclear with Bio/Inhibitor+ you will have trouble. Can't say with EK ZMT sorry. For transparent tube I recommend Mayhem's own ultraclear tubing.


----------



## godboy

Astral85 said:


> Do not use EK Duraclear with Bio/Inhibitor+ you will have trouble. Can't say with EK ZMT sorry. For transparent tube I recommend Mayhem's own ultraclear tubing.


Does it contain Ethylene Glycol?

Otherwise, X1 would be good in all tubing I presume? I know cases of plasticizer are scattered about but I'm curious if X1 renders it from any flexible clear tubing that anyone knows of?


----------



## ciarlatano

godboy said:


> Does it contain Ethylene Glycol?
> 
> Otherwise, X1 would be good in all tubing I presume? I know cases of plasticizer are scattered about but I'm curious if X1 renders it from any flexible clear tubing that anyone knows of?


The issue is really a Duraclear thing rather than a Mayhems issue. Duraclear isn't great tubing, and has a tendency to cloud and/or have plasticizer issues regardless of what coolant you are running.


----------



## godboy

ciarlatano said:


> The issue is really a Duraclear thing rather than a Mayhems issue. Duraclear isn't great tubing, and has a tendency to cloud and/or have plasticizer issues regardless of what coolant you are running.


Appreciate the help. Will go X1 in the ZMT and reckon I'll start looking into Tygon clear options. Mayhems/Primochill both look good, but I may prefer experimenting with a more industrial option.


----------



## frosty415

Any ETA on the new fluid? Need new coolant for my rig pretty soon.


----------



## kacsa

check mayhems.co.uk on facebook
They updating it more frequently


----------



## Shawnb99

liquidgaming.co.uk has also been silent when asked for an ETA


----------



## ezveedub

Astral85 said:


> Question for @Mayhem
> 
> I've had Mayhem ultra clear tubing running with Biocide/Inhibitor+ for around 7-8 months. I've had no issues with it and my loop however recently I've noticed some kind of flaky spots in the CPU out to top rad tube. It appears to be mainly be in that tube, the other tubes look pretty clear as well as the reservoir. Any idea what this is?
> 
> View attachment 2473052
> View attachment 2473053


Remove the tube and clean the inside with a bristle brush and soapy water. I do this with all the clear Mayhems tubing to get any film or spots off and then rinse in distilled and reinstall.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I can say ZMT is a safe bet, one of the few tubing on the market that is safe for all fluids (last I checked).


----------



## Happy Trails

Mayhems tubing seems nice and price was good also. Bought some for the draining of the loop with a fitting.


----------



## Shawnb99

Happy Trails said:


> Mayhems tubing seems nice and price was good also. Bought some for the draining of the loop with a fitting.



It’s great tubing but be aware as with all clear tubing it’ll end up cloudy in time. Very bendy so works so much easier then ZMT.


----------



## ciarlatano

Shawnb99 said:


> It’s great tubing but be aware as with all clear tubing it’ll end up cloudy in time. Very bendy so works so much easier then ZMT.


Not to mention the fact that the sizing is actually to spec, whereas ZMT is not, makes it much easier. Tygon A-60-G for block tubing every time. ZMT was yet another EK failure.


----------



## Section31

I have an situation and wondering if normal. I recently added in some mayhem xt1 clear into my loop and according to next flow/temp meter, water conductivity jumped from 0.2ucm to 0.8ucm. Before it was just pure distilled water


----------



## Mayhem

Due to issues way out of our control your looking beginning / Mid Feb for XTR.

Covid & brit exit has slowed down every thing in the UK. Bottles, boxs, chems ect ect are on back order awaiting delivery this is for every thing mayhems makes.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> Due to issues way out of our control your looking begging / Mid Feb for XTR.
> 
> Covid & brit exit has slowed down every thing in the UK. Bottles, boxs, chems ect ect are on back order awaiting delivery this is for every thing mayhems makes.


Thanks for the update. I’ll bug you again on valentines


----------



## Mayhem

*Section31*

your flow meter isn't calibrated and there is always a difference between water and coolant.

Also ucm is diffrent measurement from mcm and many others. So that meter is as much use as chocolate fireguard when you have no base to work from and its not calibrated. Taking conductivity reading is a fine art and not some thing you can just throw at a wim. What you can do is use it as a base to see when you need to change your coolant!. However with out knowing the measurement from that meter for the coolant used the statement stands at its as much use as a chocolate fireguard.


----------



## ratzofftoya

So excited--just ordered my first set of glass tubes and a Mayhems glass cutting tool to go along with it--HighFlow still had the 90 degree 16mm tubes left! What should I know as far as fittings go? Which ones work and which don't?


----------



## Section31

Mayhem said:


> *Section31*
> 
> your flow meter isn't calibrated and there is always a difference between water and coolant.
> 
> Also ucm is diffrent measurement from mcm and many others. So that meter is as much use as chocolate fireguard when you have no base to work from and its not calibrated. Taking conductivity reading is a fine art and not some thing you can just throw at a wim. What you can do is use it as a base to see when you need to change your coolant!. However with out knowing the measurement from that meter for the coolant used the statement stands at its as much use as a chocolate fireguard.


Thanks. Got to play with the new aquacomputer unit more to figure out.


----------



## Mayhem

Section31 said:


> Thanks. Got to play with the new aquacomputer unit more to figure out.


yeh i do love the tech and the idea but with out a firm base to start from you kind of weeing in the wind with it all.


----------



## Avacado

Section31 said:


> Thanks. Got to play with the new aquacomputer unit more to figure out.


Just received my Next flow meter too from MMM.


----------



## sok0

Just curious, I just filled my new loop up with Mayhems X1 Eco Clear Concentrate + distilled and my coolant looks like mystic fog almost.. Using red Primochill LRT tubing (not sure if its not compatible). Doesnt really bother me but didnt know if it is an issue and I should drain it out... 

I cleaned my 10 year old thermochill radiators with primochill Rad clean and the water was dark grey/green , and flushed 5 times with distilled. Everything else was new.


----------



## Avacado

sok0 said:


> Just curious, I just filled my new loop up with Mayhems X1 Eco Clear Concentrate + distilled and my coolant looks like mystic fog almost.. Using red Primochill LRT tubing (not sure if its not compatible). Doesnt really bother me but didnt know if it is an issue and I should drain it out...
> 
> I cleaned my 10 year old thermochill radiators with primochill Rad clean and the water was dark grey/green , and flushed 5 times with distilled. Everything else was new.


Sounds like residual from the rads of whatever junk was previously in there. That can happen, even with multiple flushes.


----------



## DarthBaggins

seems like there were still remnants in the rads that might have not been fully flushed out. LRT normally is compatible with X1, last I remember.

^someone beat me to it.


----------



## sok0

The radiators drained crystal clear distilled prior to me cleaning them after running for 3 years. This is what came out after using Primochill Rad Clean (couldnt find any mayhems blitz for months).


----------



## Avacado

sok0 said:


> The radiators drained crystal clear distilled prior to me cleaning them after running for 3 years. This is what came out after using Primochill Rad Clean (couldnt find any mayhems blitz for months).
> 
> 
> View attachment 2475782


Just from that picture, I would assume that residual would appear like "Mystic Fog" diluted. It is more expensive, but you can find Part 1 and 2 separate.


----------



## ezveedub

sok0 said:


> The radiators drained crystal clear distilled prior to me cleaning them after running for 3 years. This is what came out after using Primochill Rad Clean (couldnt find any mayhems blitz for months).
> 
> 
> View attachment 2475782


Imagine if you used this stuff....in just 5 minutes, lol

















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Mayhem

Pre warning removing all the patina from a rad is bad. This is why Blitz is not so strong and doesnt ruin the patina layer and then PH balances when finished. Patina protects the rad and stops issues later on down the line.


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems XTR "White" will be out Monday, available direct from Mayhems - Homepage - B2C - UK & https://liquidgaming.co.uk. These will be the only resellers for the first few weeks while we build up stock. Only white is available at the moment. The reason for this is pre-production runs were at 6nm when we have scaled up and gone into mass manufacture the equipment has done a better job and taken it down to 4nm, the problem with this is because the particles are smaller it affects the light dispersion even more than expected and all the dyed formulas need changing to compensate for this. This will take time and extra testing.


----------



## Avacado

Fantastic!!!! Can you do us yanks a solid and let us know when they are enroute to NA distributers?

Looks like the XTR white is already available to add to cart in the latter link.


----------



## Avacado

That 44 quid shipping for 4 bottles hurts.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> Mayhems XTR "White" will be out Monday, available direct from Mayhems - Homepage - B2C - UK & https://liquidgaming.co.uk. These will be the only resellers for the first few weeks while we build up stock. Only white is available at the moment. The reason for this is pre-production runs were at 6nm when we have scaled up and gone into mass manufacture the equipment has done a better job and taken it down to 4nm, the problem with this is because the particles are smaller it affects the light dispersion even more than expected and all the dyed formulas need changing to compensate for this. This will take time and extra testing.


Also will there be a black option?
Saw the link now. £50 isn’t that bad I guess


----------



## Mayhem

Shawnb99 said:


> Can I get a shipping quote for 5L to Canada, V5L5C5. Would it be possible to do a group order as well?


I no longer have a shop and do not sell directly to the public any more, the above two stores are the outlets and if you contact them they can help you. Sorry ... I had to relieve some of the pressure and handed over public sales to the above companies so we could concentrate on manufacturing.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> I no longer have a shop and do not sell directly to the public any more, the above two stores are the outlets and if you contact them they can help you. Sorry ... I had to relieve some of the pressure and handed over public sales to the above companies so we could concentrate on manufacturing.


No worries. I’ll order from Liquid gaming


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> I no longer have a shop and do not sell directly to the public any more, the above two stores are the outlets and if you contact them they can help you. Sorry ... I had to relieve some of the pressure and handed over public sales to the above companies so we could concentrate on manufacturing.


No worries, I will buy it for what it's worth when it gets to US distributors. I support what you are doing, but damn I need that free fedex shipping from PPCS.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Mayhem What more info can you give us on the fluid. At £24.15 a Litre I’m interested in hearing what improvements it has


----------



## dwolvin

Same- less evaporation?


----------



## Mayhem

Mayhems XTR is a 4nm Premixed nanofluid (there will not be a concentrate for a very long time) has quite a few new technologies incorporated into it. It contains No glycols what so ever, no active live biocide and no active live inhibitor. The technologies we have created are natural inhibitors and natural biocides that never need replacing; therefore, they never need topping up and will keep working as long as the fluid is in the system. The liquid's natural light-blocking ability also stops any growth within the system by denial of any UV Light entering the fluid. (just keep topping up with water and water only when it evaporates).

There are two types of nanomaterial: spiky and the other is hex-shaped.

The spiky particle layers itself over every component in the system and creates more surface area for the heat to escape through the so-called membrane it makes, which is 0.4nm thick.

The hex particles encapsulate the heat and move it around the system faster. Because there is more surface area due to the membrane created and the Hex particles heat is picked up and extracted through the entire system is much faster than average. You will see that the system will hit equilibrium a lot faster than usual.

There is more involved in it but we cannot go into to much detail.

There is one cravat: that is if you spill it! wipe it up immediacy and do not let it dry out. If you have had it in your system and are going to rip it apart, you must remove it (flush though with lots of water) and do not allow it to dry up inside. if you do when the liquid evaporates you will be left with a layer that is difficult to remove.

Every one to two years remove the coolant from the system and put it through a coffee filter and you can then reuse it.

The system must be fully cleaned before usage. £25.00 for this nano coolant at 4nm is cheap esp with all the dev and R&D gone into it.


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> Mean XTR is a 4nm nanofluid and has quite a few new technologies incorporated into it. It contains No glycols what so ever, no active live biocide and no active live inhibitor. The technologies we have created are natural inhibitors and natural biocides that never need replacing; therefore, they never need topping up and will keep working as long as the fluid is in the system. The liquid's natural light-blocking ability also stops any growth within the system by denial of any UV Light entering the fluid.
> 
> There are two types of nanomaterial: spiky and the other is hex-shaped.
> 
> The spiky particle layers itself over every component in the system and creates more surface area for the heat to escape through the so-called membrane it makes, which is 0.4nm thick.
> 
> The hex particles encapsulate the heat and move it around the system faster. Because there is more surface area due to the membrane created and the Hex particles heat is picked up and extracted through the entire system is much faster than average. You will see that the system will hit equilibrium a lot faster than usual.


Does this mean that there is a money back guarantee? I'm all about paying a premium for a product that "never needs replacing".


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> Mayhems XTR is a 4nm Premixed nanofluid (there will not be a concentrate for a very long time) has quite a few new technologies incorporated into it. It contains No glycols what so ever, no active live biocide and no active live inhibitor. The technologies we have created are natural inhibitors and natural biocides that never need replacing; therefore, they never need topping up and will keep working as long as the fluid is in the system. The liquid's natural light-blocking ability also stops any growth within the system by denial of any UV Light entering the fluid. (just keep topping up with water and water only when it evaporates).
> 
> There are two types of nanomaterial: spiky and the other is hex-shaped.
> 
> The spiky particle layers itself over every component in the system and creates more surface area for the heat to escape through the so-called membrane it makes, which is 0.4nm thick.
> 
> The hex particles encapsulate the heat and move it around the system faster. Because there is more surface area due to the membrane created and the Hex particles heat is picked up and extracted through the entire system is much faster than average. You will see that the system will hit equilibrium a lot faster than usual.
> 
> There is more involved in it but we cannot go into to much detail.
> 
> There is one cravat: that is if you spill it! wipe it up immediacy and do not let it dry out. If you have had it in your system and are going to rip it apart, you must remove it (flush though with lots of water) and do not allow it to dry up inside. if you do when the liquid evaporates you will be left with a layer that is difficult to remove.
> 
> Every one to two years remove the coolant from the system and put it through a coffee filter and you can then reuse it.
> 
> The system must be fully cleaned before usage. £25.00 for this nano coolant at 4nm is cheap esp with all the dev and R&D gone into it.



Very interesting. Tap water or Distilled? If we can top it up with water how diluted can it get before we need more XTR?


----------



## Mayhem

Distilled or Purified e.g Mayhems ultra-pure will do (no more than TDS 0.05 PPM). You cannot add to it only replace what evaporated. If you water it down it will lose its charge on the nanomaterial and will fall out. The fluid is very carefully balanced hence why it also can not be made into a concentrate just yet.


----------



## Mayhem

Avacado said:


> Does this mean that there is a money back guarantee? I'm all about paying a premium for a product that "never needs replacing".


All though I would love to be able to offer that, there will be someone, somewhere who does something we haven't thought off . There will also be people who try it on by not cleaning their system, we will check their fluids as we have in the past and then call them out on it when we get the results back.


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> All though I would love to be able to offer that, there will be someone, somewhere who does something we haven't thought off . There will also be people who try it on by not cleaning their system, we will check their fluids as we have in the past and then call them out on it when we get the results back.


Understood. I don't want you to think we don't support you, we do. We don't even mind the price tag, just that damn shipping. We are all very proud of you here. Grats.


----------



## Shawnb99

I’ll wait for PPC’s to get it in stock. Would love to have it now but $91 CDN shipping is a bit much. Damn COVID

Just move to Canada all our problems would be solved 😁


----------



## Mayhem

Oh shipping right now is nuts, It scares me the way its all heading tbh.


----------



## Barefooter

I can't wait to see the Blue fluid!


----------



## Shawnb99

I can’t wait to see black, with the light blocking properties it must be nice and dark.


----------



## Mayhem

haha i doubt there will be a black as of yet, the white is too strong a colour.


----------



## Mayhem

Electron microscope Pictures of Mayhems XTR (these photos belong to Mayhems Solutions Ltd and cannot be distributed without our express permission).

This is to show the distribution of particles and also we used them to aid in sizing them. We have an even closer photo but these are not for public release.
Pic 1 - 100nm photo








Picture 2 - 20nm photo








Picture 3 - 10 nm photo









To give you an idea how much we have progressed Mayhems pastel was 60 to 100nm.








You can carefully see the hex-shaped particles in the mixture

*Mayhems XTR 1 Ltr White Premixed Coolant*

Mayhems XTR has been developed from the ground up over several years in conjunction with UK universities and Nanomaterial scaleup manufacturers in the UK. Its is a cumulation of new high-end nanomaterial advancement and manufacturing and has taken years of work to get to a where it is now. Unlike any other coolant in our industry, it contains no Glycols and no living Biocide or Inhibitor.

The Nanomaterial that has been developed to utilise very specific products that naturally create an inhibition effect and biocide without ever needing to keep infusing it with extras to make it work. This along with its natural light-blocking ability make the coolant perfect for long term usage.

The mean Nano size at mass-scale production level is 4nm (nanometre) making it one the smallest mass-produced coolants ever created and is a truly ground-breaking product.

The formulation can be adjusted in house to accumulated sub-zero cooling and various other forms of cooling and is scalable beyond anything we have done in the past.

*4nm multi nanomaterial.

*No glycols used in its production.

*contains no liquid biocide or inhibitor.

*100% light blocking characteristics.

*Long term, long-lasting coolant.

*Adjustable inhouse to accommodate different abilities.

*100% UK Made and produced.

*Before Usage.*

The system must be fully cleaned using the Mayhems blitz cleaning system. There must be no other coolants left in the system.

*Warnings*

If you spill Mayhems XTR clean it up immediately with a damp cloth and then dry surrounding area with dry cloth. Never leave the fluid to dry out in a system, it will harden and be extremely difficult to remove.

Contains “Zinc Oxide” Toxic to aquatic life with long-lasting effects. See SDS for more information.

*Care and Maintenance.*

*Every 1 to 2 years empty the coolant out of the system and pour through a paper coffee filter to remove any debris. Flush the system through with ultra-Pure H20 and empty out. Re-add Mayhems XTR Premixed topping up with extra Mayhems XTR if needs be.

*If the level of your coolant decreases due to precipitation just add Mayhems Ultra-pure water to bring it back up the level it was in the first place, Do not add more than what you had in the first place, doing so will create an in balance.

*There may be some fall out of the coolant this should pick back up when the system is turned on.


----------



## Hawkjoss

Mayhem said:


> Mayhems XTR is a 4nm Premixed nanofluid (there will not be a concentrate for a very long time) has quite a few new technologies incorporated into it. It contains No glycols what so ever, no active live biocide and no active live inhibitor. The technologies we have created are natural inhibitors and natural biocides that never need replacing; therefore, they never need topping up and will keep working as long as the fluid is in the system. The liquid's natural light-blocking ability also stops any growth within the system by denial of any UV Light entering the fluid. (just keep topping up with water and water only when it evaporates).
> 
> There are two types of nanomaterial: spiky and the other is hex-shaped.
> 
> The spiky particle layers itself over every component in the system and creates more surface area for the heat to escape through the so-called membrane it makes, which is 0.4nm thick.
> 
> The hex particles encapsulate the heat and move it around the system faster. Because there is more surface area due to the membrane created and the Hex particles heat is picked up and extracted through the entire system is much faster than average. You will see that the system will hit equilibrium a lot faster than usual.
> 
> There is more involved in it but we cannot go into to much detail.
> 
> There is one cravat: that is if you spill it! wipe it up immediacy and do not let it dry out. If you have had it in your system and are going to rip it apart, you must remove it (flush though with lots of water) and do not allow it to dry up inside. if you do when the liquid evaporates you will be left with a layer that is difficult to remove.
> 
> Every one to two years remove the coolant from the system and put it through a coffee filter and you can then reuse it.
> 
> The system must be fully cleaned before usage. £25.00 for this nano coolant at 4nm is cheap esp with all the dev and R&D gone into it.


Thank you for detailed info!
Was waiting on xtr to be out to finally do the maintenance on my loop. 
is this liquid soft tubing friendly?


----------



## Shawnb99

@Mayhem what is the shelf life? IE how long can we keep opened or unopened bottles before they go bad?


----------



## Mayhem

*Hawkjoss - No issues so far*
[B]Shawnb99[/B]* - unknown total life but we expected it to be the same as pastel was*


----------



## Avacado

Shawnb99 said:


> @Mayhem what is the shelf life? IE how long can we keep opened or unopened bottles before they go bad?


That is a question I was wondering as well, but from his comments it seems like it never expires.


----------



## Section31

Waiting for concentrate versions to try.


----------



## Mayhem

QC run on the fluid showed some thing we didn't expect.


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> QC run on the fluid showed some thing we didn't expect.
> View attachment 2477904


Chart looks way above my knowledge. Take away is 100% light dispersion @2.8nm particle size?


----------



## dwolvin

I read it as being slightly thinner than water...


----------



## Mayhem

*Section31 * There will not be a concentrate for a very long time.
*Avacado : *Yeh 2.8nm highest, 2 mean and lower is unknown. Retested 15 times, (took me all day) 12 gave the same results, 3 failed reading (to be expected).
*dwolvin : * iI would ignore that bit, to get the reading we have to dilute 1000/1 So we could get the laser to pass through the coolant. Our System is based on DLS (dynamic light scattering) -> Link to my "toy" - Detail


----------



## Sir Beregond

This fluid sounds great. Looking forward to giving that white a try when I can secure a GPU for the new build and start getting parts to do some hard-line.

Very interested in the line about not needing to ever replace it. Color me a bit skeptical, but very intriguing.


----------



## Mayhem

Its a long term fluid. This doesn't mean it will never need replacing, it's all down to the system, the colour, what's in your system. It's near impossible to give a time frame on usage as we found with pastel. XTR is meant as a long term fluid. This fluid also needs a bed in time to allow it to work more efficiently.

E.g
1) We have pastel that is now 9 years old still working the same as day one.
2) We have had the same pastel fall over after 2 years in a different system.

White, UV Green, UV Blue, UV Pink will last the longest
UV Purple (unsure)
Red, Orange, Yellow may not last as long due to the way copper works and colour change will be dependent on the equipment, the way its been cleaned and so many other variables.


----------



## dwolvin

Can't wait to see the colors! (well, can and will)


----------



## sok0

Performance-PCS finally has blitz kits, inhibitor+ and biocide+ in stock... Been trying to get that for months now. FYI


----------



## Sir Beregond

sok0 said:


> Performance-PCS finally has blitz kits, inhibitor+ and biocide+ in stock... Been trying to get that for months now. FYI


Thanks, ordered for my upcoming build.


----------



## Mayhem

First set of colour will be pictured below, red is a hard one as it looks pink so will not a release colour until we have done more testing.


----------



## Shawnb99

Any chance of black? Yeah that’s a very pinkish red. That green looks amazing though


----------



## broodro0ster

Actually, the "failed" red looks like a very nice pink to me.


----------



## Mayhem

No the failed red isn't posted its UV pink posted. Failed red looks like pinkish rose . Black is impossible atm.


----------



## broodro0ster

Ah ok, well that color looks good to me


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> No the failed red isn't posted its UV pink posted. Failed red looks like pinkish rose . Black is impossible atm.


atm meaning it might be possible in the future? I’ll keep the dream alive then.


----------



## Mayhem

Shawnb99 said:


> atm meaning it might be possible in the future? I’ll keep the dream alive then.


Honesty atm not possible, i may review (when i find some time), but will mean a reformulation of the base product.


----------



## dwolvin

White enough base that you can't get a satisfactory dark color, I get it. Love the colors you have shown, and guesstimate on the timeline? I'm not in a rush- I haven't even started buying part yet...


----------



## Mayhem

This is the purple in the block. Time line will be with in the next two weeks for colour versions. Were currently for filling orders and are about 2 weeks behind on them so playing catch up.


----------



## Shawnb99

That looks so nice. When can we expect it stateside?


----------



## Exilon

Is the Corsair XL5 using Mayhems X1, XT-1, or something else?


----------



## hisXLNC

does the white give an effect similar to the ek mystic fog or is it more like the white pastel?


----------



## Section31

Thanks. I might take an gamble on it when it hits stateside too. Lets buy together shawnb99


----------



## Mayhem

Exilon said:


> Is the Corsair XL5 using Mayhems X1, XT-1, or something else?


An adjust version of X1, so really not X1 as it formulated for there needs but based off that product line.


----------



## Mayhem

hisXLNC said:


> does the white give an effect similar to the ek mystic fog or is it more like the white pastel?


if you want mystic fog just water down there normal line.


----------



## Shawnb99

Can we see some pictures of the white in use? Want to see how seameny it looks


----------



## Mayhem

from when i was testing before Gen 1 Tr 16 core (32 threads), 32gb ram, AMD Vega 64. Fans at 1/2 speed gentle typhoon. rad 30mm. Beading in test run. Ambient temp was 18c then rose as the room warmed up. ran for 7 days like this.


----------



## hisXLNC

Will there be a clear version?


----------



## Mayhem

no not for public usage


----------



## Hawkjoss

Mayhem said:


> View attachment 2478030
> 
> 
> This is the purple in the block. Time line will be with in the next two weeks for colour versions. Were currently for filling orders and are about 2 weeks behind on them so playing catch up.


WOW! that's what I've been waiting for! was about to shill out for shipping of the white XTR, but will wait on Purple. Looks sick! great job!


----------



## Sir Beregond

Managed to snag a 3070 tonight. Looks like blocks aren't quite out for it yet, so maybe when they are the white will be over here in the states. Planning a black/white/gold theme.


----------



## Shawnb99

Sir Beregond said:


> Managed to snag a 3070 tonight. Looks like blocks aren't quite out for it yet, so maybe when they are the white will be over here in the states. Planning a black/white/gold theme.


Gold is my second choice for colors. If they can't do black I hope they can pull off a decent gold.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Shawnb99 said:


> Gold is my second choice for colors. If they can't do black I hope they can pull off a decent gold.


Big fan of gold done right.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Mayhem

no gold im sorry to say no in XTR anyway, we are working on some thing else but that wont be out for a while until XTR is fully out and im happy then its on with another project....


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> no gold im sorry to say no in XTR anyway, we are working on some thing else but that wont be out for a while until XTR is fully out and im happy then its on with another project....


@Shawnb99 Said he would go ahead and be the poison control for the XTR series. When 2% milk won't cut it, there is XTR White.


----------



## Shawnb99

Avacado said:


> @Shawnb99 Said he would go ahead and be the poison control for the XTR series. When 2% milk won't cut it, there is XTR White.


It does a body good. Chalky goodness!!


----------



## Hawkjoss

Sir Beregond said:


> Managed to snag a 3070 tonight. Looks like blocks aren't quite out for it yet, so maybe when they are the white will be over here in the states. Planning a black/white/gold theme.


Congrats!
If you got FE, you can order a block from EKWB ( i ordered mine a month ago or so, for current orders ETA is end of February)


----------



## ciarlatano

No clear XTR.....may have to bite the bullet and do white. Or just wait until I am out of X1 clear.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> no gold im sorry to say no in XTR anyway, we are working on some thing else but that wont be out for a while until XTR is fully out and im happy then its on with another project....


What colours can we expect? Will there be additives that let us change or brighten/darken colours? Any UV colours?


----------



## Sir Beregond

Hawkjoss said:


> Congrats!
> If you got FE, you can order a block from EKWB ( i ordered mine a month ago or so, for current orders ETA is end of February)


No luck with the Best Buy drop, so its just a Zotac. Not my first choice, but it will do.

Looks like Alphacool and Bykski are making blocks for it, but not out yet from what I can tell. EK made a block but it is...and get this...aluminum. 😂 After my last build, so done with EK blocks and their crappy plating.


----------



## Mayhem

better imaging of XTR


----------



## Mayhem

More imaging of the 2nd part of Mayhems XTR


----------



## ryan92084

Glad to see the xtr is out after the long developement. As soon as it hits stateside I'll be ordering.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Same. Decided to do a black/white/gold theme. I have a black case and cables/components, thinking gold fittings, and clear hardline with this white XTR.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Are variations of Gray going to be available? Do love my grays. .


----------



## Mayhem

Were hitting the market with what I call stable colours for the moment, Due to the issues with getting plastic and card (world wide issue) we have to be careful what we sell and make what sells the most. I'm working on a lot of testing at this moment in time and documenting everything as the companies we work with need white papers submitting for the R&D side. We are also working on "other" products that we have not spoken to often about using what we have learnt from the R&D on XTR. When we release new colours we will keep people updated.


----------



## Barefooter

So what are the colors for the first batch of stable colors if you can tell us?


----------



## Mayhem

White to start with then pictured below other colours so white, blue, pink, purple and green.


----------



## dwolvin

I'm normally a blue person, but that green it amazing! Is it that vibrant in person?


----------



## Sir Beregond

So I've seen this chart posted around for compatibility. Based on what you posted about XTR, I am guessing it is compatible with everything?


----------



## Mayhem

That Chart is well out of date there has been so many changes since that was made.

Yes green is kick you in the face bright.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Mayhem said:


> That Chart is well out of date there has been so many changes since that was made.


OK, got anything newer?

I'm a distilled guy just getting into these coolants so any info like that would be helpful. Like if I decide to try my hand at hard line, is that new XTR compatible?


----------



## Mayhem

I am working on building a new site from the ground up with lots of data going into it, it will take time to build. Once its up and running for users it will be posted on our web page.


----------



## Mayhem

MakerProductColourAmountPriceGlycol readingEC/PPMPHTest tempAmbient tempDelta tempThermal ConductivityCurrentAVG DriftDocumentThermaltakeP1000White990ml29.99​?????????PDFXSPCEC6Clear1000ml8.99​?????????PDFXSPCEC6White1000ml12.98​?????????PDFAlphacoolClearClear1000ml11.51​?????????PDFEKCyro FuelClear1000ml8.59​?????????PDFEKCyro FuelWhite1000ml15.47​?????????PDFLiquid.CoolCFXClear1000ml4.79​?????????PDFLiquid.CoolCFXWhite1000ml9.99​?????????PDFDIMASTECHX-FluidClear1000ml9.59​?????????PDFMayhemsX1Clear1000ml5.00​?????????PDFMayhemsXT-1 NukeClear1000ml4.50​?????????PDFMayhemsPastelWhite1000ml9.99​?????????PDFMayhemsAuroraSilver1000ml9.99​?????????PDFMayhemsXTRWhite1000ml29.99​?????????PDFMayhemsXTR - AuroraSilver1000ml29.99​?????????PDFMayhemsUlta Pure H20Clear1000ml5.00​?????????PDFMayhemsBiocide + inhibitor + H20Clear1000ml7.00​?????????PDFRAIJINTEKRAIAQUA-T1Clear1000ml14.06​?????????PDFCorsairXL5Clear1000ml15.99​?????????PDF

All fluids are on order, TLS awaiting delivery and other testing systems are ready to go. This is our start for testing , each test takes 100 readings (10 readings at a time with a 10min rest between each reading). We will publish all details. All tests will be done to ASTM D7896-19 Standards and will be verified..


----------



## Shawnb99

XTR Aurora Silver? Lets see some pics of that!!


----------



## Barefooter

Looking forward to those test results!

Can you add Aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra coolant as well?


----------



## Mayhem

I can only get what we can get in the UK. If people are willing to supply us samples we will do them, all the above coolants were paid for and ordered tonight by myself.


----------



## Section31

Very interested in the results. Looking for replacement that will resolve the high conductivity reported by aquacomputer next flow sensor


----------



## Mayhem

The issue with PC internal liquid cooling sensors is actually calibration, My bet is 99.99% of people that use them have never calibrated them! 

E.g thermal sensors if not calibrated they can be out by a huge amount, it looks good yes, but the information given isn't right. Conductivity sensor are the same they have to be calibrated before usage with a control solution and I bet when you bought the product no control solution was shipped with it. There for the sensor is just a gimmick nothing more.

There is a secondary issue with using a conductivity meter in a closed loop design is that coolants pick up metals and debris and move it around the system, also Air is in the system and this changes the value and the value will always increase. If you do not have the information from a coolant manufacture of when the coolant needs changing (e.g the EU value at the start and the EC value of when to swap it out) then what use is the meter. There is no point what so ever a Manufacture giving you these reading as they change from the date of manufacture due to many factors and these can be how the coolant was stored, what temp it was stored at, the sea level the coolant is stored at and being used ect ect.

This is a good example for you. We make a coolant here in the UK for a company, We have QC control sheets. many reading of each batch of coolant is done and checked with many different tools, all calibrated every time we do the tests. Now The other company has the same tools, the same calibration fluids ect ect however when we ship the product to them the reading are never the same. There is always a difference because they are in a humid environment and there sea levels are different.

Now the THW (transient hot wire) reading we will be doing will all be done in the same place, using the same tools and calibrated each and every time we take a reading. So when we do the tests it will be relevant for each and every sample. How ever there is a as much as a 5% of error but a 2% repeatability, this may sound a lot but its the nature of the beast. This is also why we will have 10 batches of 10 tests (100 tests and readings) so we can work an average from it. There is some info on Wikipedia -> Transient hot wire method - Wikipedia and it says "The *transient hot wire method* (THW) is a very popular, accurate and precise technique to measure the thermal conductivity of gases, liquids " Well it is not accurate and precise because there is an error factor to take into account but its the best method for doing it.

Now if we follow the method for testing car coolants -> Standard Test Method for Thermal Conductivity, Thermal Diffusivity, and Volumetric Heat Capacity of Engine Coolants and Related Fluids by Transient Hot Wire Liquid Thermal Conductivity Method this can give us a base line to work from and a guide to any future improvements we can make.


----------



## biopunk

Is Pastel V2 Blue going to be restocked any time soon? Would prefer premix but the concentrate is fine too.

Eagerly awaiting those test results as either CryoFuel Solid or EC6 Opaque would be my second choice after Pastel V2.


----------



## Mayhem

biopunk said:


> Is Pastel V2 Blue going to be restocked any time soon? Would prefer premix but the concentrate is fine too.
> 
> Eagerly awaiting those test results as either CryoFuel Solid or EC6 Opaque would be my second choice after Pastel V2.


We stopped making pastel last year and will not be returning back to it.

For those interested in real unbiased data logging of the Transient Hot-Wire Thermal Conductivity Testing for Coolants for Liquid-cooled PC I have started the work today. I have only managed to get 1 test done today as I need to get some cleaning solution home (off work ill atm) plus I had to calibrate the system. You'll see on the page an Excel File with full data of the test with charts and full info and a Simplified PDF version. There will be no commenting on what is best as we build up more information as that is not the aim of this project. However, users can take the data and make their own conclusions from the paperwork I produce. A temporary web page is being built over at www.x-drip.com that will eventually become Mayhems new site. Hit up -> https://x-drip.com/?page_id=389 to see the data being worked on. If anyone wishes to donate 50mls of coolant we don't have just fire me a PM, We will only be working on clear and White versions of any coolant for the moment and may progress to colored versions as well. There is no fee for this testing. We would like to say a Big thank you to those who donated to help us start putting this information together. Hopefully, it will all serve you well. Ill Upload more tests as we go through them as this is not a quick process.


----------



## dwolvin

Very cool of you to share your raw data, I'd offer up anything I had, but it's just yours these days.


----------



## Mayhem

Managed to Get 3 coolants done today updated the site top is Ultra-Pure H20 baseline testing and then scroll down and you'll see EKWB and TT coolants I have listed and tested so far. All the raw data is in the excel file and quick data in the PDF with any notes. Mayhems THW testing


----------



## raynzo

I have a pre-built system with a coolant loop since 2018.
It contains Mayhems Pastel Blue and I have about 100ml left in the bottle to top it up with and it's hard to find some more.
I understand I should flush out the system before switching to another coolant, but is there a recommended guide for how to do this?


----------



## Mayhem

raynzo said:


> I have a pre-built system with a coolant loop since 2018.
> It contains Mayhems Pastel Blue and I have about 100ml left in the bottle to top it up with and it's hard to find some more.
> I understand I should flush out the system before switching to another coolant, but is there a recommended guide for how to do this?


you can simply put the fluid into another bottle, Put it through a coffee filter, rise your system out with DI water or any high-grade water, then reuse and top up with what's left in the older bottle.

If you are wishing to go with a new fluid then use Blitz kit part 2 (basic) to help clean the system for any new fluid you choose.


----------



## Shawnb99

Did we get a shelf life for the fluids? IE If I buy 10L and only use 5 how long are unopened bottles for and how long would an previously opened bottle last?

Also I have a new project for you @Mayhem we need a combined part 1 and 2 blitz kit so you don't have to take apart the whole system to clean the radiators. I'm sure I'm asking the impossible and it's really only a pain for those like me with too many radiators but still would be nice not to take it apart.


----------



## dwolvin

Apologies if this got answered and I missed it, what's the thermal expansion rate? Does it expand less than straight distilled water?


----------



## Mayhem

Shawnb99 said:


> Did we get a shelf life for the fluids? IE If I buy 10L and only use 5 how long are unopened bottles for and how long would an previously opened bottle last?
> 
> Also I have a new project for you @Mayhem we need a combined part 1 and 2 blitz kit so you don't have to take apart the whole system to clean the radiators. I'm sure I'm asking the impossible and it's really only a pain for those like me with too many radiators but still would be nice not to take it apart.


ATM not possible as if you mix p1 and p2 you're lowering the PH value and the fluid is not as effective, We did try another way with "one-shot" but had issues of gas expansion and it causing issues when shipping (bottles exploding on a plane lol). It is something we have worked on but atm I have a lot on my plate and obv just a single guy doing all this dev isn't easy.


----------



## Mayhem

dwolvin said:


> Apologies if this got answered and I missed it, what's the thermal expansion rate? Does it expand less than straight distilled water?


Nope, its the same as water old pastel.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> ATM not possible as if you mix p1 and p2 you're lowering the PH value and the fluid is not as effective, We did try another way with "one-shot" but had issues of gas expansion and it causing issues when shipping (bottles exploding on a plane lol). It is something we have worked on but atm I have a lot on my plate and obv just a single guy doing all this dev isn't easy.


Good to know it's at least theoretically possible. I'm sure you'll figure it out at some point. Exploding bottles on planes is not good. Likely isn't practical since everything is nickel plated and they love to blame part 1 when it flakes so I can see that being an issue as well. I assume the acid levels needed to clean the radiators would be to harsh for most of the other components.
Easier would be the manufactures making clean radiators but that'll never happen.


----------



## dwolvin

OK, thanks! My hope for a no expansion tank loop goes on...


----------



## Mayhem

Shawnb99 said:


> Good to know it's at least theoretically possible. I'm sure you'll figure it out at some point. Exploding bottles on planes is not good. Likely isn't practical since everything is nickel plated and they love to blame part 1 when it flakes so I can see that being an issue as well. I assume the acid levels needed to clean the radiators would be to harsh for most of the other components.
> Easier would be the manufactures making clean radiators but that'll never happen.


yes the acid is needed to clean however if manufacturers pulled their fingers out their butts and "sonic" cleaned their rads at a manufacturing stage (or dip acid bath) this would solve a lot of issues however Patina will still do its job after that and a clean would still be needed but would not need to be as agressive.


----------



## Hawkjoss

Mayhem said:


> View attachment 2478030
> 
> 
> This is the purple in the block. Time line will be with in the next two weeks for colour versions. Were currently for filling orders and are about 2 weeks behind on them so playing catch up.


Thanks for the updates!
I just want to make sure I understand correctly - we will have an opportunity to order color versions (purple FE) in about two weeks?


----------



## Mayhem

Currently of work ill atm, so maybe a bit longer.


----------



## Hawkjoss

Mayhem said:


> Currently of work ill atm, so maybe a bit longer.


got it. get better soon!


----------



## Badgerslayer7

Loving the xtr green. Will definitely be ordering some of that. Is it uv reactive?


----------



## ciarlatano

Mayhem said:


> First set of colour will be pictured below, red is a hard one as it looks pink so will not a release colour until we have done more testing.
> 
> View attachment 2477997
> View attachment 2477998





Badgerslayer7 said:


> Loving the xtr green. Will definitely be ordering some of that. Is it uv reactive?


I'm going to go with "yes".


----------



## Badgerslayer7

ciarlatano said:


> I'm going to go with "yes".


I reckon so too but I just wanted clarification.


----------



## Mayhem

yes


----------



## Badgerslayer7

Mayhem said:


> yes


Ok that’s great. When will it be available to order? I only ask as I need to drain my loop and if it’s imminently I will wait till this is released. Thanks


----------



## Mayhem

When I'm back at work, I've been off ill for two weeks, got loads to catch up on. Plus we have issues getting bottles and box's due to Covid, demand and Brit exit.


----------



## Badgerslayer7

Mayhem said:


> When I'm back at work, I've been off ill for two weeks, got loads to catch up on. Plus we have issues getting bottles and box's due to Covid, demand and Brit exit.


Ok thanks for the reply. I will keep my eye on the store.


----------



## Mordorr

Yesterday, i had to change Orings from my old Tank-O-Matik from Inovatek...

Infortunaly, i didn`t have enough XT1 Clear, so i did mix distilled water, about 10/15%...

Is this very bad?


----------



## Mayhem

Should be oky .

XTR Colours out on mayhems shop next few hours.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Mayhem said:


> Should be oky .
> 
> XTR Colours out on mayhems shop next few hours.


Is that the best way to get it for now (including white)? Haven't seen XTR at PPC's or otherwise here in the US yet.


----------



## Badgerslayer7

Mayhem said:


> Should be oky .
> 
> XTR Colours out on mayhems shop next few hours.


Are they out yet? Can’t find them. The website doesn’t seem to be working properly either. It’s not sold out already has it? Also is it ek hd Petg safe? I presume it is as it has no inhibitors in it


----------



## Hawkjoss

yup, the site is working a bit slow. but i was able to order 2x purple XTRs just now.
Shipping cost to US - PAINFUL!


----------



## Hawkjoss

actually, I made a mistake and ordered 2x pink . will try to cancel that one.
I was able to place 2x Purple few minutes ago .


----------



## Badgerslayer7

I’ve ordered 3 uv green. Had to ring them to tell them that the site wasn’t working properly. I wasn’t able to add anything to the shopping basket no matter what I added. Anyway all sorted now.


----------



## Mayhem

Yeh guys sorry we don't run the shop but if you contact them they should sort it. 

Red atm, I keep getting asked, to be as blunt as possible "looks awful", I'm working on finding a new replacement dye to create it or an alternative way of making it.

Pre warning about using UV with UV active XTR. "*Huston we have a problem*" ... XTR reflects light back in the direction it came, this seems to be an issue when using strong UV LEDs as they light is causing the tubing to miss colour if the light is too strong and close to the tube. Due to the way XTR works it intensifies the light and concentrates it more, this can have the effect of messing up the tubing. So if you going to run UV lights run them at low voltages and as far away from tubing and reses as possible. It's something I'm working on.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Question @Mayhem 

The XTR mentions that the nano material creates natural biocide and inhibitors. How is that tested for long-term usage?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Badgerslayer7

Mayhem said:


> Yeh guys sorry we don't run the shop but if you contact them they should sort it.
> 
> Red atm, I keep getting asked, to be as blunt as possible "looks awful", I'm working on finding a new replacement dye to create it or an alternative way of making it.
> 
> Pre warning about using UV with UV active XTR. "*Huston we have a problem*" ... XTR reflects light back in the direction it came, this seems to be an issue when using strong UV LEDs as they light is causing the tubing to miss colour if the light is too strong and close to the tube. Due to the way XTR works it intensifies the light and concentrates it more, this can have the effect of messing up the tubing. So if you going to run UV lights run them at low voltages and as far away from tubing and reses as possible. It's something I'm working on.


I take it 12v uv led strips should be ok? That’s disappointing news. How long would it take the tubing to go discoulored? Don’t want to be doing my loop again in a couple of months, thanks.


----------



## mongoled

Hawkjoss said:


> yup, the site is working a bit slow. but i was able to order 2x purple XTRs just now.
> Shipping cost to US - PAINFUL!


Not just to US, to Europe also!

Cheapest shipping for the Mayhem Blitz kit V2 and two bottles of inhibitor and biocide is almost £30.00 GBP.

** shrugs **

On top of that, am unsure whats going on with the VAT and have dropped them an email as the prices on the website include VAT, but when a shipment is made from UK to another European country then VAT will be charged again, this should not be happening and just makes it less likely that purchases will be made as all the costs add up .....

Article talking about it here


----------



## Van Diemen

Filling a couple of loops with XTR white. I've fallen short by a small amount. Is it okay to top up with Mayhems Ultra Pure?


----------



## Mordorr

Brexit...
Lovely...


----------



## Mayhem

I like brit exit however i do not like how the french are ****ing up the system and being twats. excuse my french and English ....


----------



## Hawkjoss

woohoo! waiting for the fittings and blitz kit for maintenance. Hopefully will get those by the end of this week and will post the look in the rig


----------



## Van Diemen

Van Diemen said:


> Filling a couple of loops with XTR white. I've fallen short by a small amount. Is it okay to top up with Mayhems Ultra Pure?


@*Mayhem*

Would it be okay to mix XTR with a little Mayhems Ultra Pure?


----------



## Sir Beregond

Mayhem said:


> *Care and Maintenance.*
> 
> *Every 1 to 2 years empty the coolant out of the system and pour through a paper coffee filter to remove any debris. Flush the system through with ultra-Pure H20 and empty out. Re-add Mayhems XTR Premixed topping up with extra Mayhems XTR if needs be.
> 
> *If the level of your coolant decreases due to precipitation just add Mayhems Ultra-pure water to bring it back up the level it was in the first place, Do not add more than what you had in the first place, doing so will create an in balance.
> 
> *There may be some fall out of the coolant this should pick back up when the system is turned on.


Sounds like you might imbalance the coolant doing that if I read this correctly.


----------



## dwolvin

Van Diemen said:


> @*Mayhem*
> 
> Would it be okay to mix XTR with a little Mayhems Ultra Pure?


That was asked a couple of pages back- Ultra Pure is the base of XTR, so it shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## Sir Beregond

I guess the question though is how much is "a little"?


----------



## ciarlatano

dwolvin said:


> That was asked a couple of pages back- Ultra Pure is the base of XTR, so it shouldn't be a problem.





Sir Beregond said:


> I guess the question though is how much is "a little"?


Are you guys referring to this - [Official] Mayhems users club
Because that is about XT-*1. *I didn't see that question asked anywhere about XTR.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, I mistranslated that one in my head...


----------



## Mayhem

Van Diemen said:


> @*Mayhem*
> 
> Would it be okay to mix XTR with a little Mayhems Ultra Pure?


No you cannot mix. If there is a tiny amount of UP in the system try to blow out as much as you can.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Mayhem said:


> No you cannot mix. If there is a tiny amount of UP in the system try to blow out as much as you can.


Oh. Does it absolutely need to be dry then in the system after doing a Blitz part 2 and thorough flushing?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Sir Beregond

Oops, phone doubleposted.


----------



## Van Diemen

Mayhem said:


> No you cannot mix. If there is a tiny amount of UP in the system try to blow out as much as you can.


Thank you for confirming. I've ordered some more XTR


----------



## Owtlaw333

@Mayhem I bought X1 instead of the Pastel (because the X1 says pastel and I assumed it was opaque, like the Pastel.....) and currently have the X1 in my system. I'll be replacing the X1 with the Pastel but was wondering if it's safe to do a light rinse of the system, or should I be doing a proper blitz clean-out? Color will be similar, so I'm not worried about that... just chemical incompatibility. Thank you!


----------



## Badgerslayer7

Xtr uv green in the loop. 😀


----------



## Mayhem

Sir Beregond said:


> Oh. Does it absolutely need to be dry then in the system after doing a Blitz part 2 and thorough flushing?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Not perfectly dry just try your hardest to get out as much as possible.


----------



## Mayhem

Owtlaw333 said:


> @Mayhem I bought X1 instead of the Pastel (because the X1 says pastel and I assumed it was opaque, like the Pastel.....) and currently have the X1 in my system. I'll be replacing the X1 with the Pastel but was wondering if it's safe to do a light rinse of the system, or should I be doing a proper blitz clean-out? Color will be similar, so I'm not worried about that... just chemical incompatibility. Thank you!


We no longer sell pastel im afraid to say. But if Using X1 and switching coolant (clear) then a simple water wash out is fine. If using with colour then you may need to run part 2.


----------



## Mayhem

Badgerslayer7 said:


> Xtr uv green in the loop. 😀
> View attachment 2482072


Don't forget to not run your UV lights on to high, you run them low so the fluid glows.


----------



## frosty415

Yeah, iono if I can bite the bullet on the cost of shipping to the U.S. 2 bottles of this stuff comes out more than $100 usd atm. Need to replace my fluid... might have to switch to another brand.


----------



## Mayhem

Mod my mods have a shipment on XTR on its way to them! however, if you going to use another brand please do not use Thermaltake its rubbish stuff (really really bad product). If using EKWB flush the system with water and make sure you get all of the pastel out of the system before using EKWB products. Good luck and enjoy your adventures.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> Mod my mods have a shipment on XTR on its way to them! however, if you going to use another brand please do not use Thermaltake its rubbish stuff (really really bad product). If using EKWB flush the system with water and make sure you get all of the pastel out of the system before using EKWB products. Good luck and enjoy your adventures.


Sweet!! Going to email them when I get off work. Hopefully I can secure myself 10 or so litres


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> Mod my mods have a shipment on XTR on its way to them! however, if you going to use another brand please do not use Thermaltake its rubbish stuff (really really bad product). If using EKWB flush the system with water and make sure you get all of the pastel out of the system before using EKWB products. Good luck and enjoy your adventures.


Very excited about this. I have emailed them as well.


----------



## Shawnb99

Avacado said:


> Very excited about this. I have emailed them as well.


HEY! I called dibs first!!


----------



## Avacado

Shawnb99 said:


> HEY! I called dibs first!!


I doubt you'll be buying the ENTIRE shipment!


----------



## Shawnb99

Avacado said:


> I doubt you'll be buying the ENTIRE shipment!


Knowing me I wouldn’t be surprised if I did lol


----------



## Avacado

Shawnb99 said:


> Knowing me I wouldn’t be surprised if I did lol


You better portion me out some. Let me know if they respond to you and I'll do the same.


----------



## Shawnb99

Avacado said:


> You better portion me out some. Let me know if they respond to you and I'll do the same.


I was JK about buying it all. At most I’ll grab 10L or so. Doubt I’ll even need that much.


----------



## broodro0ster

Badgerslayer7 said:


> Xtr uv green in the loop. 😀


Nice! Do you see any improvements in temps with XTR?


----------



## Sir Beregond

Hey I want at least 2 bottles of the white XTR!


----------



## Shawnb99

So does the "white" still look like semen?


----------



## Avacado

NVM, I think im priced out. He said the cost is going to be 50$ PER bottle. HAHA they lost their minds. and it looks like they are only getting 12 bottles of each color to start white, blue, pink, green, purple. So only 60 Bottles total. Would be cheaper at this point to order directly from the UK.

5 bottles shipped from the UK, express would be 200$. MMM would want 250$??? HELL NO.


----------



## Shawnb99

Avacado said:


> NVM, I think im priced out. He said the cost is going to be 50$ PER bottle. HAHA they lost their minds. and it looks like they are only getting 12 bottles of each color to start white, blue, pink, green, purple. So only 60 Bottles total. Would be cheaper at this point to order directly from the UK.
> 
> 5 bottles shipped from the UK, express would be 200$. MMM would want 250$??? HELL NO.


Yeah same. From the UK worked out to like $40 CDN a bottle, not $50 US. That's a bit much, plus could only pre-order a few liters. I'll just order direct.


----------



## Avacado

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah same. From the UK worked out to like $40 CDN a bottle, not $50 US. That's a bit much, plus could only pre-order a few liters. I'll just order direct.


Sorry @Mayhem, I am one of your biggest supporters and at 30$ a bottle, i'm your man, I just can't justify the cost, even if it is liquid gold. I will wait until the market gets saturated and see then.


----------



## Sir Beregond

$50 a bottle? Yikes.


----------



## Mayhem

@*Avacado*

£30.00 for 8 years worth of dev, 1/4 Million spend on manufacturing costs, Years of trying to get someone to be able to help mass manufacture, Eventually hitting a sub 6nm particle size @ £30.00 a bottle(1 Ltr) is not expensive trust me. I have had to fight for months to get the price down as much as I could and tbh real honest I am very very proud I even got the cost down that far. However yes it is not for everyone and for the cost to come down even further which if you know me you'll know we will eventually be able to do but we have to be purchasing 5,000 Ltrs minimum at a time, but these are early days. Look at the products you can buy right now for £30.00 "Thermaltake" and many others. I have no real need to defend what I have done but if you can buy 1 Ltr of sub 6nm (4nm mean) liquid anywhere on the market point me to them and ill gladly work with them to get my product prices down. Yes XTR is not for everyone but everything I do is niche and is worked from the ground up. Ref others and what they charge, I have no control of that side of the market. I do not set RRP.


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> @*Avacado*
> 
> £30.00 for 8 years worth of dev, 1/4 Million spend on manufacturing costs, Years of trying to get someone to be able to help mass manufacture, Eventually hitting a sub 4nm particle size @ £30.00 a bottle(1 Ltr) is not expensive trust me. I have had to fight for months to get the price down as much as I could and tbh real honest I am very very proud I even got the cost down that far. However yes it is not for everyone and for the cost to come down even further which if you know me you'll know we will eventually be able to do but we have to be purchasing 5,000 Ltrs minimum at a time, but these are early days. Look at the products you can buy right now for £30.00 "Thermaltake" and many others. I have no real need to defend what I have done but if you can buy 1 Ltr of sub 6nm liquid anywhere on the market point me to them and ill gladly work with them to get my product prices down.


I really don't know why you typed all that when I said was a buyer at 30, not 50. Again, I said I was one of your biggest supporters. I shouldn't have to be reminded of how much work you have put into it Mi ck, I've been following since you started development.

Again, I spoke with Josh at MMM, they want 50 dollars a bottle.


----------



## Mayhem

Avacado said:


> I really don't know why you typed all that when I said was a buyer at 30, not 50. Again, I said I was one of your biggest supporters. I shouldn't have to be reminded of how much work you have put into it Mi ck, I've been following since you started development.
> 
> Again, I spoke with Josh at MMM, they want 50 dollars a bottle.


Just contacted Joe at MMM they are going to re-look at the price in the morning for you guys. Even I was shocked. Check your pms


----------



## Sir Beregond

How many bottles are they getting? I need some white, but not at $50 a bottle.


----------



## Badgerslayer7

broodro0ster said:


> Nice! Do you see any improvements in temps with XTR?


I’m not seeing much of a difference in temperatures. Maybe 1 degree less but loop water temp doesn’t get above 31c at the moment anyway.


----------



## ryan92084

Mayhem said:


> Just contacted Joe at MMM they are going to re-look at the price in the morning for you guys. Even I was shocked. Check your pms


Thanks, sounds promising. Hoping for some blitz in that shipment as well so I can knock out everything in one go.


----------



## Mayhem

XTR has changed from original formula and really comes into its own at higher temps. People were more interested in it being white than performance hence the change in its make up. Slimmer rads it gets a little more heat though them when using larger rads and massive air flows you probably not getting any ware near thermal loads.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> People were more interested in it being white than performance


Performance should be the only thing that matters


----------



## Sir Beregond

Shawnb99 said:


> Performance should be the only thing that matters


At the end of the day, concur.


----------



## Mayhem

We just look over the feed back when testing and work our way though it. Hence the change.


----------



## Shawnb99

What's the shelf life of an opened and unopened bottle? Can I keep them for life as well? IE same method with fluid, filter through coffee filter and good for life?


----------



## Sir Beregond

Just got an email back from Mod My Mods. They confirm only getting few bottles of each color and are saying pricing of around $35/bottle.


----------



## Shawnb99

Sir Beregond said:


> Just got an email back from Mod My Mods. They confirm only getting few bottles of each color and are saying pricing of around $35/bottle.


Thanks. That’s not so bad a price considering it’s lifetime. I’ll have to wait till they get more in.


----------



## ryan92084

I can swing 35 and luckily only need 1 to get things going.


----------



## |-Goku-|

Will the XTR work with Primochill LRT tubing? I know the XT1 wouldn't work properly. I used to use the Mayhem Pastels exclusively, and need to find a replacement and would like to get the XTR if it works with the tubing I use.


----------



## Ironcobra

Hey guys new to water and need a little help with coolant for my new build, soft tube build (tygan black tubes) all aquacomputer for everything else. Looking for clear what should I get for first fill and do I need to flush first then fill. Rads are hwl gtx 360s


----------



## Shawnb99

Ironcobra said:


> Hey guys new to water and need a little help with coolant for my new build, soft tube build (tygan black tubes) all aquacomputer for everything else. Looking for clear what should I get for first fill and do I need to flush first then fill. Rads are hwl gtx 360s


Clear would be XT1 and yes it's recommended to do a full blitz kit cleaning. Part 1 for the radiators, part 2 for the rest of the system. One thing is make sure you flush and flush some more. Or just go with distilled and inhibitor and biocide.


----------



## Astral85

Has anyone used EK ZMT with Mayhems biocide/inhibitor+?


----------



## Shawnb99

Astral85 said:


> Has anyone used EK ZMT with Mayhems biocide/inhibitor+?


Hope to this weekend. Don’t expect any issues


----------



## Iceman2733

Sir Beregond said:


> Just got an email back from Mod My Mods. They confirm only getting few bottles of each color and are saying pricing of around $35/bottle.


Is the XTR fluid on there website? I keep looking for it and can't seem to find it, unless I am passing right by it.


----------



## ciarlatano

Astral85 said:


> Has anyone used EK ZMT with Mayhems biocide/inhibitor+?


Yes. Many people have.

If you are going to use ZMT, make sure you clean it thoroughly. There is always mfg debris inside of the tubing, sometimes it's inconsequential, but sometimes will cloud your liquid or leave deposits in blocks.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Iceman2733 said:


> Is the XTR fluid on there website? I keep looking for it and can't seem to find it, unless I am passing right by it.


They haven't gotten it in yet and they said they are not sure when exactly they'll get it.


----------



## Shawnb99

Any word on the shelf life? I don't want to order 10L and have to throw it out in 2 years if I don't use it all.


----------



## Avacado

Shawnb99 said:


> Any word on the shelf life? I don't want to order 10L and have to throw it out in 2 years if I don't use it all.


He made it seem like it was good for a lifetime. I remember something like "With proper maintenance, it can last indefinitely".


----------



## Sir Beregond

Avacado said:


> He made it seem like it was good for a lifetime. I remember something like "With proper maintenance, it can last indefinitely".


He said that for use in the system but I thought he said like 2 year shelf life. I'll have to go back a few pages.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Mayhem said:


> *Hawkjoss - No issues so far*
> [B]Shawnb99[/B]* - unknown total life but we expected it to be the same as pastel was*


Here's where I saw it. What was Pastel's shelf life?


----------



## Shawnb99

Interesting how it'll last a lifetime in use but has a shelf life if not used


----------



## Astral85

ciarlatano said:


> Yes. Many people have.
> 
> If you are going to use ZMT, make sure you clean it thoroughly. There is always mfg debris inside of the tubing, sometimes it's inconsequential, but sometimes will cloud your liquid or leave deposits in blocks.


Clean before or after installed in the loop? What's the best way to clean it? Distilled water rinse? Warm distilled? Something more, soapy?


----------



## ciarlatano

Astral85 said:


> Clean before or after installed in the loop? What's the best way to clean it? Distilled water rinse? Warm distilled? Something more, soapy?


The most effective method is to buy Tygon A-60-G or Aquacomputer EPDM instead. You'll still need to rinse it, but it won't be as dirty and it won't be sized out of spec like ZMT.

If you must use ZMT, cut your lengths, then distilled rinse and clean the internals with a brush while soaking.








BasicForm Nylon Cleaning Brush Set of 10 for Bottle, Tube, Jar and Most Narrow Containers (3 Straw Cleaning Brushes Bonus): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


BasicForm Nylon Cleaning Brush Set of 10 for Bottle, Tube, Jar and Most Narrow Containers (3 Straw Cleaning Brushes Bonus): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.com


----------



## Shawnb99

One drawback of Tygon A-60-G is you can't show off the fancy new XTR colors


----------



## ciarlatano

Shawnb99 said:


> One drawback of Tygon A-60-G is you can't show off the fancy new XTR colors


Or, if you are like me, you find it a benefit hiding the color you didn't want in the first place.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Shawnb99 said:


> Interesting how it'll last a lifetime in use but has a shelf life if not used


Yeah I thought that was a bit odd too. Perhaps these aren't all figured out yet seeing how new the product is.


----------



## mongoled

mongoled said:


> Not just to US, to Europe also!
> 
> Cheapest shipping for the Mayhem Blitz kit V2 and two bottles of inhibitor and biocide is almost £30.00 GBP.
> 
> ** shrugs **
> 
> On top of that, am unsure whats going on with the VAT and have dropped them an email as the prices on the website include VAT, but when a shipment is made from UK to another European country then VAT will be charged again, this should not be happening and just makes it less likely that purchases will be made as all the costs add up .....
> 
> Article talking about it here


I never received an answer to the question I asked via the webform on the mayhems website.....


----------



## Astral85

Why does EK ZMT have a track record of being unproblematic and maintenance free?


----------



## Shawnb99

Astral85 said:


> Why does EK ZMT have a track record of being unproblematic and maintenance free?


That's a lie. I just bought some and have had nothing but problems with it. Stuff is filthy and needs to be cleaned before use, is an utter pain trying to fit onto fittings. Nothing EK is every unproblematic. The shills just drown us the true experience. Even here where we know how crap EK is, this comment will get the EK fan boys riled up


----------



## ciarlatano

Astral85 said:


> Why does EK ZMT have a track record of being unproblematic and maintenance free?


Oh, I don't know.....probably for the same reason that certain users say that EK SE rads aren't awful....  

ZMT is manufactured out of spec, hence all the problems using it with any fittings but EK, and needs much more cleaning than any other tubing out there prior to use. Get a dirty batch and it looks like someone emptied their ashtray into your res, which is the definition of problematic. Granted, if you clean it really well and use EK fittings, its fine. But tubing shouldn't need qualifiers to work.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Astral85 said:


> Why does EK ZMT have a track record of being unproblematic and maintenance free?


Where did you hear that?


----------



## XKomodo

Mayhem said:


> XTR has changed from original formula and really comes into its own at higher temps. People were more interested in it being white than performance hence the change in its make up. Slimmer rads it gets a little more heat though them when using larger rads and massive air flows you probably not getting any ware near thermal loads.


So according to a review I've seen by by craig from ppc on a couple of places this coolant reduces temps by up to 10c. Are we being told that magnitude of a drop in temps was sacrificed to make it possible for the coolant to be white ? o.o 
If so, why not make a performance version and one for those who want aesthetics. I'm certain performance would outsell a color quirk.


----------



## Shawnb99

XKomodo said:


> So according to a review I've seen by by craig from ppc on a couple of places this coolant reduces temps by up to 10c. Are we being told that magnitude of a drop in temps was sacrificed to make it possible for the coolant to be white ? o.o
> If so, why not make a performance version and one for those who want aesthetics. I'm certain performance would outsell a color quirk.


Color is not worth 10c


----------



## dwolvin

Coolant change improving temps by 10 degrees isn't going to happen. It's just like the people that saw the same about high end blocks, a change that large is more likely a bad mount or other error. (imho / ymmv)


----------



## Sir Beregond

Shawnb99 said:


> Color is not worth 10c


Hmm, think I might hold off on any XTR purchase until more info is available on this.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Astral85

Shawnb99 said:


> That's a lie. I just bought some and have had nothing but problems with it. Stuff is filthy and needs to be cleaned before use, is an utter pain trying to fit onto fittings. Nothing EK is every unproblematic. The shills just drown us the true experience. Even here where we know how crap EK is, this comment will get the EK fan boys riled up


So are you not recommending it? I would like an aesthetic change from the Mayhems ultraclear tubing I've been using for when I install my new Z590 motherboard and CPU. I've always liked the look of ZMT. However Mayhems ultraclear has been a dream and I would hate to put something in that will give problems. I thought I had heard positive things about ZMT around the net and on the forum here at oc.net. EK claims ZMT does not leech plasticizer. What are the problems you have? I have EK fittings so fitment shouldn't be an issue.


----------



## Shawnb99

Astral85 said:


> So are you not recommending it? I would like an aesthetic change from the Mayhems ultraclear tubing I've been using for when I install my new Z590 motherboard and CPU. I've always liked the look of ZMT. However Mayhems ultraclear has been a dream and I would hate to put something in that will give problems. I thought I had heard positive things about ZMT around the net and on the forum here at oc.net. EK claims ZMT does not leech plasticizer. What are the problems you have? I have EK fittings so fitment shouldn't be an issue.


If you can find other tubing I’d suggest using it. I for one am switching toTygon A-60-G Norprene and ripping out the EK crap. It’s just filthy, already stained the silicone ribber on my D5 nexts that I’ll have to bleach in the hopes of removing the stain.
I don’t know about leeching or not, I won’t be using the stuff I have now


----------



## Astral85

Shawnb99 said:


> If you can find other tubing I’d suggest using it. I for one am switching toTygon A-60-G Norprene and ripping out the EK crap. It’s just filthy, already stained the silicone ribber on my D5 nexts that I’ll have to bleach in the hopes of removing the stain.
> I don’t know about leeching or not, I won’t be using the stuff I have now


"EK crap" Sounds like a not recommended. 

AFL00012 | Saint Gobain Fluid Transfer Tygon A-60-G Opaque Black Process Tubing, 4.8mm Bore Size , 15m Long , No | RS Components This the stuff?


----------



## Astral85

@Shawnb99 This is the closet I can find to 10/16mm. What do you think?





__





AFL00029 | Saint Gobain Fluid Transfer Opaque Black Hose Pipe, 9.5mm ID, Tygon A-60-G, 0.90 bar Max working Pressure, 15m | RS







nz.rs-online.com


----------



## Shawnb99

Astral85 said:


> @Shawnb99 This is the closet I can find to 10/16mm. What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AFL00029 | Saint Gobain Fluid Transfer Opaque Black Hose Pipe, 9.5mm ID, Tygon A-60-G, 0.90 bar Max working Pressure, 15m | RS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nz.rs-online.com


Yeah that looks to be the closest to 3/8” 5/8”. 
This is a harder tubing to find.


----------



## ciarlatano

Astral85 said:


> @Shawnb99 This is the closet I can find to 10/16mm. What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AFL00029 | Saint Gobain Fluid Transfer Opaque Black Hose Pipe, 9.5mm ID, Tygon A-60-G, 0.90 bar Max working Pressure, 15m | RS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nz.rs-online.com


That is 3/8x5/8". I've used it on 10/16mm fittings many times.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Astral85 said:


> I thought I had heard positive things about ZMT around the net and on the forum here at oc.net. EK claims ZMT does not leech plasticizer.


There are even recent threads here of people having issues with this tubing. It is absolutely filthy tubing that unless you really take your time to effectively clean, will gunk up your loop and especially your blocks.


----------



## mattxx88

Badgerslayer7 said:


> Xtr uv green in the loop. 😀
> View attachment 2482072


hi, i'm working on a new loop, can you take a picture of your sistem with uv off and day light on?
would appreciate a lot  tks


@Mayhem possible to send from UK to Italy marked "as sample"?


----------



## dwolvin

He's not doing direct sales (not running a shop), so you are probably out of luck. Nice looking build!


----------



## mattxx88

dwolvin said:


> He's not doing direct sales (not running a shop), so you are probably out of luck. Nice looking build!


i see the shop available from the site ?.? https://mayhems.store/may_b2c/
i read the VAT rulez, seems that under 134£ it's not required extra surcharge


----------



## dwolvin

Oh, I might have misheard then.


----------



## mongoled

Well no answer from the rep here at OC.net and no reply to the email I sent a couple of weeks ago.

Also the Google map on the contact us page is "broken"

Not a good look to not respond to prospective customers asking valid question via the website...

Also store was on mayhems.net now thats changed ...

Also there is a Mayhems Solutions Ltd | Join the liquid cooling community website.

Now I am begining to understand why they dont answer emails delivered via the webform.

Seem they dont have a professional handling their IT infrastructure.

Their twitter page has a link that goes to http://www.mayhems.co.uk that does not resolve properly, reverts to https:// but there is no www. designation available...

And was hoping for them to clarify what they are doing with VAT and double charging .....


----------



## M3TAl

The only rep for Mayhems on OCN is the owner himself who we can assume is very busy. He likely only checks this thread when time allows or to give info on products in the works. 

Your email should of been answered though. They've been known to have email issues in the past with their hosting provider.


----------



## ryan92084

The store is managed by a third party so if your questions are about the store you should probably be directing them there and not here, their main site, or social media.



Mayhem said:


> 12 to 14 days. Mayhems own shop is closing soon and being re diverted to a company who can do a better job than us. How ever they will be the first to get all the new products before any one else and they can do faster and better shipping methods than us. me and my daughter think we need to concentrate on supply / demand and start trying to keep up as this year our sales have simply been to much for us to handle on our own.





Mayhem said:


> www.mayhems.store is now live. All support will also be taken over on www.mayhems.store.





Mayhem said:


> Yeh guys sorry we don't run the shop but if you contact them they should sort it.
> ...


----------



## mongoled

ryan92084 said:


> The store is managed by a third party so if your questions are about the store you should probably be directing them there and not here, their main site, or social media.


Thanks for that info, makes sense why things come across as being a mess with regard to distribution and answering question regarding this.

Hopefully someone who is affiliated with Mayhems can clarify what is the currect status with regards to VAT and double taxation....


----------



## Mayhem

dwolvin said:


> Coolant change improving temps by 10 degrees isn't going to happen. It's just like the people that saw the same about high end blocks, a change that large is more likely a bad mount or other error. (imho / ymmv)


No in testing earlier version depending on set up the most we ever saw was -10c (no changing in blocks or any thing and no bad mounting, blocks were left in place and never moved, we have no reason to lie to any one, but formula has changed and a lot of other things have changed due to issues we came across and consumer feed back). I can go on and on why things have changed but that is life and trying to please all the people all the time is not easy.


----------



## Mayhem

mongoled said:


> Thanks for that info, makes sense why things come across as being a mess with regard to distribution and answering question regarding this.
> 
> Hopefully someone who is affiliated with Mayhems can clarify what is the currect status with regards to VAT and double taxation....


You need to contact www.mayhems.store or https://liquidgaming.co.uk/ directly as this has nothing to do with us. We have no control of the site or how it works.


----------



## Hawkjoss

Had a pretty productive few days:
1. did Mayhem Blitz pt2 for 24hrs
2. Complete system disassembly and cleaning
3. Sanded the CPU die with 1000 grit
4. Cleaned all rads and block ( couldn't do the distro)
5. swapped the direction of the fans on the bottom rad ( now both rads are working as exhaust)
5. Installed RTX 3070 waterblock
6. Changed all tubing
7. Of course, filled up the system with Purple XTR

Have only a few pics from the evening and the lighting is not great, will post more tomorrow.

PS: it is my first water block install so I have a question - can the GPU WB reduce the flowrate 2x? Before the WB on the GPU my max flowrate was almost 8LPM, now it is 4,5 LPM (both cases pump is at 100% duty)


----------



## dwolvin

I'm surprised the flow hit is that big, but barring issues in pump / block assembly oops, I guess so!


----------



## Hawkjoss

dwolvin said:


> I'm surprised the flow hit is that big, but barring issues in pump / block assembly oops, I guess so!


Seems like still have lots of air in the system, will take few weeks to let it all out.
today max flow raised to 5.1LPM, but i do not expect more. Still, pretty significant flowrate drop


----------



## Avacado

Hawkjoss said:


> Had a pretty productive few days:
> 1. did Mayhem Blitz pt2 for 24hrs
> 2. Complete system disassembly and cleaning
> 3. Sanded the CPU die with 1000 grit
> 4. Cleaned all rads and block ( couldn't do the distro)
> 5. swapped the direction of the fans on the bottom rad ( now both rads are working as exhaust)
> 5. Installed RTX 3070 waterblock
> 6. Changed all tubing
> 7. Of course, filled up the system with Purple XTR
> 
> Have only a few pics from the evening and the lighting is not great, will post more tomorrow.
> 
> PS: it is my first water block install so I have a question - can the GPU WB reduce the flowrate 2x? Before the WB on the GPU my max flowrate was almost 8LPM, now it is 4,5 LPM (both cases pump is at 100% duty)


Thats about right. My office rig runs at 4.7 L/PM with CPU, 2xGPU and 2 rads. With just 1 pump, you shouldn't expect the flow you had before. I don't =/


----------



## Hawkjoss

Hawkjoss said:


> Had a pretty productive few days:
> 1. did Mayhem Blitz pt2 for 24hrs
> 2. Complete system disassembly and cleaning
> 3. Sanded the CPU die with 1000 grit
> 4. Cleaned all rads and block ( couldn't do the distro)
> 5. swapped the direction of the fans on the bottom rad ( now both rads are working as exhaust)
> 5. Installed RTX 3070 waterblock
> 6. Changed all tubing
> 7. Of course, filled up the system with Purple XTR
> 
> Have only a few pics from the evening and the lighting is not great, will post more tomorrow.
> 
> PS: it is my first water block install so I have a question - can the GPU WB reduce the flowrate 2x? Before the WB on the GPU my max flowrate was almost 8LPM, now it is 4,5 LPM (both cases pump is at 100% duty)


Running Mayhems part2. Before this, I completely drained both rads and remove 99% of liquid from the system. The pic below is after about 15hrs of blitz running - you can see a purple tint to the liquid - apparently removing stains from rads/distro 

















while this was running, I installed the GPU block


















and also sanded the die. I used 1000 grit paper with water. Mistakes were made - you can see I scuffed a bit of PCB on the right corners of the CPU . Lesson learned - need to tape everything around the chip before doing that. Spoiler - chip is alive and healthy, ran 1 hr of OCCT (small FFT/AVX) and CB 2.54 - no issues. result of this: no temperature drops were observed, actually, the temps are 3-4C higher than before during the stress tests - I believe it is because of GPU water block install and reduced flow rate as a result. temps are still within acceptable - 65C on CB R20, 9900k 5.0 4.7 cache AVX 0. The pro was that LM was extremely easy to apply on the chip after sanding









After draining Blitz part 2 and 4 refills with distilled water, I disassembled the loop one more time and ran distilled water through the rads and distro multiple times to remove whatever was left there.
The final result is below: 


































Pretty happy with the result. 15 minutes of RB 2.54 - max GPU temp is 44C, CPU 77C, Water 34C, ambient 24.5C










spoiler - this is how Ek tubing looks after 3 months running with EK Cryoduel...


----------



## Hawkjoss

Avacado said:


> Thats about right. My office rig runs at 4.7 L/PM with CPU, 2xGPU and 2 rads. With just 1 pump, you shouldn't expect the flow you had before. I don't =/


is it D5 or DDC pump you have?
I have DDC 3.2 PWM


----------



## Avacado

Hawkjoss said:


> is it D5 or DDC pump you have?
> I have DDC 3.2 PWM


It's a D5, Keep in mind that flow meter you have actually reports higher than your real flow. As long as you are happy with the temps I wouldnt freak out.


----------



## Hawkjoss

One user on this forum pointed out that i installed the thermal pad incorrectly ( on caps instead of mosfets😤)
First try waterblock install, mistakes were made.
But - yet another time i am happy I didn’t go for rigid tubing - i was able to correct the mistake without disassembling and draining the entire loop. All it took was mobo box, my son’s books and 15 minutes of spare time. Took an opportunity and swapped the tim that came in EK box to cryonaut.









ran timespy extreme to see the results:
Gpu max t: 40c
Water t: 30c
Ambient: 25c

will keep testing

PS: another thing wanted to mention but forgot to incude in previous post. Mayhems tubing is way better then EKs - it is softer and easier to install on the fittings. It was a breeze to change the tubing this time. Will see how it will hold up in terms of leeching and staining.


----------



## Section31

Hawkjoss said:


> One user on this forum pointed out that i installed the thermal pad incorrectly ( on caps instead of mosfets😤)
> First try waterblock install, mistakes were made.
> But - yet another time i am happy I didn’t go for rigid tubing - i was able to correct the mistake without disassembling and draining the entire loop. All it took was mobo box, my son’s books and 15 minutes of spare time. Took an opportunity and swapped the tim that came in EK box to cryonaut.
> View attachment 2483856
> 
> 
> ran timespy extreme to see the results:
> Gpu max t: 40c
> Water t: 30c
> Ambient: 25c
> 
> will keep testing
> 
> PS: another thing wanted to mention but forgot to incude in previous post. Mayhems tubing is way better then EKs - it is softer and easier to install on the fittings. It was a breeze to change the tubing this time. Will see how it will hold up in terms of leeching and staining.


Second that. It still doesn’t stay clear though fyi


----------



## Sir Beregond

Hawkjoss said:


> One user on this forum pointed out that i installed the thermal pad incorrectly ( on caps instead of mosfets😤)
> First try waterblock install, mistakes were made.
> But - yet another time i am happy I didn’t go for rigid tubing - i was able to correct the mistake without disassembling and draining the entire loop. All it took was mobo box, my son’s books and 15 minutes of spare time. Took an opportunity and swapped the tim that came in EK box to cryonaut.
> View attachment 2483856
> 
> 
> ran timespy extreme to see the results:
> Gpu max t: 40c
> Water t: 30c
> Ambient: 25c
> 
> will keep testing
> 
> PS: another thing wanted to mention but forgot to incude in previous post. Mayhems tubing is way better then EKs - it is softer and easier to install on the fittings. It was a breeze to change the tubing this time. Will see how it will hold up in terms of leeching and staining.


You are not wrong about that. Flex tubing does make swap out and repasting things easier. Downside is that the clear tube never stays clear. Its why I usually just go with colored tubing, but then I've had to deal with plasticizer. Eh, it all has its pros and cons.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

So hows the Mayhems X1 V2 pre mix? Planning on not draining the loop till I rebuild in 2 - 3 years so need something to last.

Was planning on going EK stuff but after seeing that it can bubble, foam or go like sludge I'm staying away from that crap. I also cant be bothered making my own stuff (yes I know it's easy, I'm lazy).


----------



## Sir Beregond

Aussiejuggalo said:


> So hows the Mayhems X1 V2 pre mix? Planning on not draining the loop till I rebuild in 2 - 3 years so need something to last.
> 
> Was planning on going EK stuff but after seeing that it can bubble, foam or go like sludge I'm staying away from that crap. I also cant be bothered making my own stuff (yes I know it's easy, I'm lazy).


If I recall, X1 should be changed every year. Might have been the colored or dyed ones. Might be more like 2 years if you go with the clear.

Otherwise its been great for me, using the clear X1 currently, put in in September.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Sir Beregond said:


> If I recall, X1 should be changed every year. Might have been the colored or dyed ones. Might be more like 2 years if you go with the clear.
> 
> Otherwise its been great for me, using the clear X1 currently, put in in September.


Yeah I know most coolant is meant to be changed every 6 - 12 months but I'm lazy. Last loop I did with distilled and liquid utopia lasted 3 years, it was the crap EK nickle plating that caused problems in the end.

I planned on going clear, no need for colour, to much chance of it gunking up.


----------



## ciarlatano

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Yeah I know most coolant is meant to be changed every 6 - 12 months but I'm lazy. Last loop I did with distilled and liquid utopia lasted 3 years, it was the crap EK nickle plating that caused problems in the end.
> 
> I planned on going clear, no need for colour, to much chance of it gunking up.


If that's the case, go with Inhibitor+ and Biocide+. You should get three years just topping off the chemicals every six months. I've seen X1 go three years without issue, but it will be entirely dependent on conditions, just like any other fluid.

But, frankly, if changing fluid is that big a deal, you should be addressing your loop layout. With a drain port properly located a drain and fill should be a 15 minute project at maximum.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

ciarlatano said:


> If that's the case, go with Inhibitor+ and Biocide+. You should get three years just topping off the chemicals every six months. I've seen X1 go three years without issue, but it will be entirely dependent on conditions, just like any other fluid.
> 
> But, frankly, if changing fluid is that big a deal, you should be addressing your loop layout. With a drain port properly located a drain and fill should be a 15 minute project at maximum.


Isn't X1 mostly glycol anyway with some inhibitors and biocides. Or just glycol and distilled. I've thought about just going inhibitor and biocide, my loops will only be nickle, copper and norprene, trying to minimize the amount of crap in them.

I'm building AIOs, cant be stuffed with a full loop, shaking the case etc. Been there done that, it was a hassle. Draining them shouldn't be to hard but it's the pulling them out that's annoying. Same with a full loop, having to stuff around getting set up to drain then refill, I cant be bothered.


----------



## Mayhem

X1 can last between 1 year and 2 years, some have had 3 years out of it. For long term usage Biocide + and inhibitor + is better.


----------



## CaliLife17

Just ordered some XTR White for Statside (sadly no clear version) for my setup, and ouch that shipping  . I have done Blitz Part 1 and distilled water wash for all my rads when I tore down the loop, but my Tubing (ZMT), CPU and GPU Blocks, Pumps and pump top, and fittings are all new. Do I need to do anymore prep to the system before I can use XTR, or should it be good to go once put together? 

Do I need to do an


----------



## ciarlatano

CaliLife17 said:


> Just ordered some XTR White for Statside (sadly no clear version) for my setup, and ouch that shipping  . I have done Blitz Part 1 and distilled water wash for all my rads when I tore down the loop, but my Tubing (ZMT), CPU and GPU Blocks, Pumps and pump top, and fittings are all new. Do I need to do anymore prep to the system before I can use XTR, or should it be good to go once put together?
> 
> Do I need to do an


Clean the heck out of that ZMT before use. It's not always dirty, but when it is, it will cause a disaster. I have always done my cuts, then soaked in distilled and cleaned the inside with a bottle brush. If you get a dirty run, you'll be amazed at what comes out of there.

I stopped using ZMT due to this and the fact that it is always out of spec on the OD. Went to Tygon A-60-G and never looked back.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Mayhem said:


> X1 can last between 1 year and 2 years, some have had 3 years out of it. For long term usage Biocide + and inhibitor + is better.


Yeah suppose I'll do that, for the price I'll get much more liquid as well and I can't see a used by date or shelf life anywhere on the biocide or inhibitor unlike the coolants.

Is that radiator wash kit thing worth it?


----------



## Hawkjoss

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Is that radiator wash kit thing worth it?


Definitely. The last thing you want is when the loop finally assembled you have the flowrate issue because your CPU block was immediately stuffed with the gunk from rads/tubing/blocks. Been there, felt the pain.


----------



## CaliLife17

ciarlatano said:


> Clean the heck out of that ZMT before use. It's not always dirty, but when it is, it will cause a disaster. I have always done my cuts, then soaked in distilled and cleaned the inside with a bottle brush. If you get a dirty run, you'll be amazed at what comes out of there.
> 
> I stopped using ZMT due to this and the fact that it is always out of spec on the OD. Went to Tygon A-60-G and never looked back.


Well good to know, guess I will go ahead and soak my cuts then.

Where do you order you Tygon A-60-G? I would need to get some in 12/16mm (7/16'' - 5/8'') for my build. Do you clean the Tygon as well prior to use? How does it compare to ZMT?


----------



## ciarlatano

CaliLife17 said:


> Well good to know, guess I will go ahead and soak my cuts then.
> 
> Where do you order you Tygon A-60-G? I would need to get some in 2/16mm (7/16'' - 5/8'') for my build. Do you clean the Tygon as well prior to use? How does it compare to ZMT?







__





3/8" ID x 5/8" OD x 1/8" Wall Tygon® A-60-G Industrial Grade Tubing | U.S. Plastic Corp.


This tubing outperforms neoprene, EPDM, and other general-purpose tubing. It has a wide range of applications such as gaskets, abrasion-r...




www.usplastic.com





It's cleaner than ZMT, it's sized correctly (which ZMT is not), is nonreactive, no plasticizer and lasts essentially a lifetime. It does say Tygon on it in white speckle paint.

And are you sure you need 7/16 and not 3/8? That would be odd. Are you using XSPC fittings from a kit? ZMT is 3/8 x (something randomly larger than) 5/8, and is a royal pain to use with anything other than EK fittings.


----------



## CaliLife17

ciarlatano said:


> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD x 1/8" Wall Tygon® A-60-G Industrial Grade Tubing | U.S. Plastic Corp.
> 
> 
> This tubing outperforms neoprene, EPDM, and other general-purpose tubing. It has a wide range of applications such as gaskets, abrasion-r...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.usplastic.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's cleaner than ZMT, it's sized correctly (which ZMT is not), is nonreactive, no plasticizer and lasts essentially a lifetime. It does say Tygon on it in white speckle paint.
> 
> And are you sure you need 7/16 and not 3/8? That would be odd. Are you using XSPC fittings from a kit? ZMT is 3/8 x (something randomly larger than) 5/8, and is a royal pain to use with anything other than EK fittings.


Well you have convinced to get some Tygon before I put this build together. I can just turn the tubing around so you don't see the Tygon watermark, or just cut around it LOL.

I am using EK's fittings, and yes its 12mm/16mm STC fittings.

EDIT: Looks like dreams dashed. It seems they do not make a 7/16 ID x 5/8 OD in Tygon Tubing (outside some specific medical stuff).


----------



## Mayhem

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Yeah suppose I'll do that, for the price I'll get much more liquid as well and I can't see a used by date or shelf life anywhere on the biocide or inhibitor unlike the coolants.
> 
> Is that radiator wash kit thing worth it?


Yeh it doesn't need a used by date, We only make small runs of it so when we ship it it's never old. 

The Blitz Kit is the best rad cleaning solution on the market bar none.


----------



## M3TAl

CaliLife17 said:


> Just ordered some XTR White for Statside (sadly no clear version) for my setup, and ouch that shipping  . I have done Blitz Part 1 and distilled water wash for all my rads when I tore down the loop, but my Tubing (ZMT), CPU and GPU Blocks, Pumps and pump top, and fittings are all new. Do I need to do anymore prep to the system before I can use XTR, or should it be good to go once put together?
> 
> Do I need to do an


Am I reading right that you did part 1 (acid) and only rinsed it out with water? If so wouldn't it still be acidic and require part 2 to get things back to normal?


----------



## CaliLife17

M3TAl said:


> Am I reading right that you did part 1 (acid) and only rinsed it out with water? If so wouldn't it still be acidic and require part 2 to get things back to normal?


Correct, I did the Rads (outside the loop) with Part 1, let them sit/soak for the time on the instructions, drained, then did 5 fill, slosh around, and rinse with distilled water. I did not do part 2 in the Rads or any of my components (all components besides Rads are new).


----------



## Sir Beregond

CaliLife17 said:


> Correct, I did the Rads (outside the loop) with Part 1, let them sit/soak for the time on the instructions, drained, then did 5 fill, slosh around, and rinse with distilled water. I did not do part 2 in the Rads or any of my components (all components besides Rads are new).


Part 2 counteracts the acid. Should have run a Part 2 after.


----------



## CaliLife17

Sir Beregond said:


> Part 2 counteracts the acid. Should have run a Part 2 after.


Well given I don't have my rig put together yet, there was no way of "running" part 2 since I don't actually have the loop built yet. I can still do part 2 once everything is put together if needed, but I didn't think I would need it on a new loop.


----------



## CaliLife17

@Mayhem what is your opinion on Part 2 in new loop? Referencing above, I ran part 1 on my rads once pc was torn down. did 5 full distilled water fill, shake and flushes on rad after Part 1. 

Rest of my new rig is brand new, only thing I am keeping are my Rads. Do you still need to run Part 2 in the new loop once I put it together to prep for XTR?


----------



## M3TAl

Just water won't counteract the acid enough. Def run the part 2.


----------



## Barefooter

CaliLife17 said:


> Well given I don't have my rig put together yet, there was no way of "running" part 2 since I don't actually have the loop built yet. I can still do part 2 once everything is put together if needed, but I didn't think I would need it on a new loop.


You should for sure run part 2 once the system is all together. Then multiple flushes with distilled water before you add your coolant. It is way worth the effort!


----------



## CaliLife17

M3TAl said:


> Just water won't counteract the acid enough. Def run the part 2.





Barefooter said:


> You should for sure run part 2 once the system is all together. Then multiple flushes with distilled water before you add your coolant. It is way worth the effort!


Good to know, thanks for the advice. I will then plan on running part 2 once I get the loop together. Right now I am busy making my ZMT tubing cuts and cleaning the tubes before I install them.


----------



## Sir Beregond

CaliLife17 said:


> Well given I don't have my rig put together yet, there was no way of "running" part 2 since I don't actually have the loop built yet. I can still do part 2 once everything is put together if needed, but I didn't think I would need it on a new loop.


Sorry didn't realize loop was not together yet.

But even with new parts should definitely run Part 2 to finish cleaning following Part 1 in the radiators. Also new parts are not really clean when it comes to most tubing and some blocks so a cleaning is definitely warranted.

Sounds like you have a good plan.


----------



## CaliLife17

Sir Beregond said:


> Sorry didn't realize loop was not together yet.
> 
> But even with new parts should definitely run Part 2 to finish cleaning following Part 1 in the radiators. Also new parts are not really clean when it comes to most tubing and some blocks so a cleaning is definitely warranted.
> 
> Sounds like you have a good plan.


Hey no worries. 

Also @M3TAl sorry if my reply seemed little negative or attitude. Rereading what I wrote, didn't mean it to come off that way, so my bad. All good 🍻

I am having faith an hoping that Optimus CPU and GPU block are pretty clean from them, but my Alphacool Brass Dual D5 top is most likely not as clean. I remember their Rads use to be not super clean from factory.

Sadly I wish draining my loop was easier, but with 5 rads and an 850ml res, even with a drain port...... not the easiest of tasks. But will make sure I do indeed do part 2


----------



## M3TAl

When I ran part 2 it was on a table with parts from two different pc/loops. Wasn't the easiest thing but I made it work. Had a filter in-line, picked up quite a bit of gunk.


----------



## CaliLife17

M3TAl said:


> When I ran part 2 it was on a table with parts from two different pc/loops. Wasn't the easiest thing but I made it work. Had a filter in-line, picked up quite a bit of gunk.


Ya I do wish I could do that before putting it all together, but sadly I just have to many parts. 5x Rads, 2gpu blocks, 1 CPU block, 850ml Res, Dual D5 pump top, etc. So I think putting it all back in its case will be easier for me.

Though I do really wish I could do it before hand... Maybe one day when I size down this rig.... Just can't let go of my CaseLabs case though LOL


----------



## Sir Beregond

M3TAl said:


> When I ran part 2 it was on a table with parts from two different pc/loops. Wasn't the easiest thing but I made it work. Had a filter in-line, picked up quite a bit of gunk.


Yep, I intend to run an inline filter as well for that reason.


----------



## CaliLife17

M3TAl said:


> When I ran part 2 it was on a table with parts from two different pc/loops. Wasn't the easiest thing but I made it work. Had a filter in-line, picked up quite a bit of gunk.





Sir Beregond said:


> Yep, I intend to run an inline filter as well for that reason.


Ya that is a good idea. I have an Aquacomputer Inline Filter I never used in previous loop since I didn't want to add the restriction. I will install it through before I run part 2 to catch anything during that cleaning. Good Idea!

Cleaning some ZMT now, is just pouring some Distilled water through it, wire brushing it, then pouring Distilled water through it again enough you think?


----------



## Sir Beregond

CaliLife17 said:


> Ya that is a good idea. I have an Aquacomputer Inline Filter I never used in previous loop since I didn't want to add the restriction. I will install it through before I run part 2 to catch anything during that cleaning. Good Idea!
> 
> Cleaning some ZMT now, is just pouring some Distilled water through it, wire brushing it, then pouring Distilled water through it again enough you think?


Yeah that's a good idea and then with a filter and running Part 2, should be golden.


----------



## CaliLife17

Sir Beregond said:


> Yeah that's a good idea and then with a filter and running Part 2, should be golden.


Thanks! I think I will remove the inline filter though after I run part 2, and just keep it again for later use. Appreciate all the help everyone!


----------



## DarthBaggins

I wouldn't recommend an in-line filter if you are running any of the opaque fluids, the suspended particles will cause issues w/ the filter. Only time I use an in-line filter is with flushing my loop, which I do outside of the case (made a setup using a pond pump and a bucket).


----------



## CaliLife17

DarthBaggins said:


> I wouldn't recommend an in-line filter if you are running any of the opaque fluids, the suspended particles will cause issues w/ the filter. Only time I use an in-line filter is with flushing my loop, which I do outside of the case (made a setup using a pond pump and a bucket).


Ya I only plan on doing the inline during the Blitz step 2 and flush part. Will remove before I put in XTR. 

On a side note, should I do a leak test before I do Part 2? or can I use part 2 as a leak test as well?


----------



## Shawnb99

CaliLife17 said:


> Ya I only plan on doing the inline during the Blitz step 2 and flush part. Will remove before I put in XTR.
> 
> On a side note, should I do a leak test before I do Part 2? or can I use part 2 as a leak test as well?


It's highly recommended to do the full blitz kit before going XTR. Both 1 & 2.

As for the leak test I always test with air before filling with anything. Otherwise if you normally leak test by filling your loop then yeah no reason why you can't use part 2 to leak test at the same time.


----------



## ezveedub

I've have always just rinsed and flushed radiators after running acidic cleaner in them, then soapy water and then distilled water. Get a pH meter and you can check the rinsed out distilled water to make sure it's not acidic. You can also use some baking soda in water to rinse also to neutralize any acid. Since I have coolant laying around, I rinse them with that as well before installing them. I don't like leaving cleaned radiators sitting exposed to air, as it start to patina the surface when then are freshly cleaned and exposed to air. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## ciarlatano

CaliLife17 said:


> Ya I only plan on doing the inline during the Blitz step 2 and flush part. Will remove before I put in XTR.
> 
> On a side note, should I do a leak test before I do Part 2? or can I use part 2 as a leak test as well?


I always use Part 2 for my leak test. It makes perfect sense - Part 2 runs 24 hours, 24 hour leak test.


----------



## mattxx88

any advice to have this green more "green"?
its a x1, i used almost the full bottle concentrate and loop takes less than 1 ltr


----------



## CaliLife17

Hey all random question. Was trying to look back through the thread to see if it was mentioned, but wasn't able to find an answer (or missed it). Is the reason for Mayhem XTR not having a clear no color option on purpose, or is it not possible with how the new formula is put together? I am just curious, as I just ordered white XTR since they didn't have clear and that got me thinking.

Can't wait to test it the XTR. Have been a big X1 user for along time, so expecting great things!


----------



## M3TAl

Don't think it's possible as XTR is nano particles. Many, many nano particles that block light.


----------



## ciarlatano

M3TAl said:


> Don't think it's possible as XTR is nano particles. Many, many nano particles that block light.


Clear and light blocking typically don't work very well together. 🤣

I was disappointed by clear not being a possibility, but that's the nature of the formula. Going to live with white when I change over. Or....maybe black.....


----------



## Hawkjoss

Mayhems XTR UV purple with Darkside UV SE. Trying to figure how to light up the other side of Pc


----------



## CaliLife17

M3TAl said:


> Don't think it's possible as XTR is nano particles. Many, many nano particles that block light.





ciarlatano said:


> Clear and light blocking typically don't work very well together. 🤣
> 
> I was disappointed by clear not being a possibility, but that's the nature of the formula. Going to live with white when I change over. Or....maybe black.....


Ya good point, don't know why I didn't put it together myself in regards to the nano particles and them being light blocking. Makes sense, will be interesting to see what other colors Mayhems can eventually come up with in the Lab.


----------



## Shawnb99

When can we expect more XTR in stock?


ciarlatano said:


> Clear and light blocking typically don't work very well together. 🤣
> 
> I was disappointed by clear not being a possibility, but that's the nature of the formula. Going to live with white when I change over. Or....maybe black.....


I'm pushing for black as well though apparently it's not easy to do. White will have to do for now, if I can find any in stock


----------



## Hawkjoss

Adding an evening shot


----------



## Sir Beregond

CaliLife17 said:


> Hey all random question. Was trying to look back through the thread to see if it was mentioned, but wasn't able to find an answer (or missed it). Is the reason for Mayhem XTR not having a clear no color option on purpose, or is it not possible with how the new formula is put together? I am just curious, as I just ordered white XTR since they didn't have clear and that got me thinking.
> 
> Can't wait to test it the XTR. Have been a big X1 user for along time, so expecting great things!


It's a replacement of the Pastel line with nano particles so I'd say no.


----------



## biopunk

-


----------



## Hequaqua

First time using the Blitz kit.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Just noticed how "Radiator" is spelled wrong on that bottle. Whoops. 

Still need to figure out radiators to get (and find them in-stock), but got my Blitz kit ready to go.


----------



## ciarlatano

Hequaqua said:


> First time using the Blitz kit.


Excellent rad choice. I'm always surprised we don't see more RX rads in the forums here.


----------



## Avacado

ciarlatano said:


> Excellent rad choice. I'm always surprised we don't see more RX rads in the forums here.


Just to spite you. He has the V3's too. I mean, now you've seen 2 more, so you aren't surprised. See, I helped you. +rep


----------



## ciarlatano

Avacado said:


> Just to spite you. He has the V3's too. I mean, now you've seen 2 more, so you aren't surprised. See, I helped you. +rep


Thanks! It's really just that I want to see pictures of them. This was a big boost to my daily intake of pics of RX boxes. Can I give you ++rep++ somehow?


----------



## Avacado

ciarlatano said:


> Thanks! It's really just that I want to see pictures of them. This was a big boost to my daily intake of pics of RX boxes. Can I give you ++rep++ somehow?


HAHA!


----------



## Hequaqua

Too funny....just got this in the mail today....woot!


----------



## Sir Beregond

Hequaqua said:


> Too funny....just got this in the mail today....woot!
> 
> View attachment 2487760


Heck yes. I want to see this in the system!


----------



## Avacado

Hequaqua said:


> Too funny....just got this in the mail today....woot!
> 
> View attachment 2487760


Don't use it, it costs a s much as gold flakes! Seriously, never flush it, milk that **** like its a 2nd brew on coffee.


----------



## Hequaqua

It's just money....lmao

From what I've read...seems that it should hold very well...provided I don't pull parts out for replacement. We'll see I guess.

UPDATE: Let Part 1 do it's thing for around 10hrs. I sloshed it around every couple of hours while it worked its magic. Flushed it about 5-6 time with distilled and capped it. I will flush it again before mounting then run Part 2.

I'm impressed with the "cleanliness" of this rad. I didn't get a single speck of anything out of it.


----------



## Avacado

Hequaqua said:


> It's just money....lmao
> 
> From what I've read...seems that it should hold very well...provided I don't pull parts out for replacement. We'll see I guess.
> 
> UPDATE: Let Part 1 do it's thing for around 10hrs. I sloshed it around every couple of hours while it worked its magic. Flushed it about 5-6 time with distilled and capped it. I will flush it again before mounting then run Part 2.
> 
> I'm impressed with the "cleanliness" of this rad. I didn't get a single speck of anything out of it.
> 
> View attachment 2487800


Yea, I have never had much crap in any XSPC rads. Looking good.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Avacado said:


> Yea, I have never had much crap in any XSPC rads. Looking good.


Concur, my XSPC rads have been pretty clean.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ciarlatano

Avacado said:


> Yea, I have never had much crap in any XSPC rads. Looking good.





Sir Beregond said:


> Concur, my XSPC rads have been pretty clean.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


My XSPC rads were probably the cleanest rads out of the box I ever received. It was one of the reasons I jumped from Alphacool rads to them back in the day when HWL was only making high fpi.

@Hequaqua - looking good!


----------



## Hequaqua

I have two other HWL rads....didn't get a lot out of either, but more than this one. Even the rad I have from FormulaMod was decent out of the box.

I was gonna tear down today, but just not up to it. I need to clean the back-up rig's OS/Files/etc so I can jump on it while Part 2 and the many rinses the main will need is out-of-service. Not in a big rush, just need to find the energy to start....lol


----------



## Sir Beregond

ciarlatano said:


> My XSPC rads were probably the cleanest rads out of the box I ever received. It was one of the reasons I jumped from Alphacool rads to them back in the day when HWL was only making high fpi.
> 
> @Hequaqua - looking good!


Yeah I think an RX360 and then a thin rad for the bottom of my case is in my future. Not sure what to get for the thin rad yet.


----------



## Hequaqua

I just took two thin ones out(360/240 HWL).....we'll see how temps go from here. They we good before, I guess.

I got it all back together(loop anyway). Got Part 2 running now....no leaks, nor a lot of foaming. My lpm increased by taking the two rads out, from around 3 to 5lpm.

So, 24hrs of cleaning, then drain, rinse, drain, rinse, drain rinse, drain, actual fluid....lol

Edit: A few pics. Cleaner is crystal clear...woot!


----------



## Avacado

Hequaqua said:


> I just took two thin ones out(360/240 HWL).....we'll see how temps go from here. They we good before, I guess.
> 
> I got it all back together(loop anyway). Got Part 2 running now....no leaks, nor a lot of foaming. My lpm increased by taking the two rads out, from around 3 to 5lpm.
> 
> So, 24hrs of cleaning, then drain, rinse, drain, rinse, drain rinse, drain, actual fluid....lol
> 
> Edit: A few pics. Cleaner is crystal clear...woot!
> 
> View attachment 2487945
> View attachment 2487946
> View attachment 2487947


Make sure you have at least one fan on. The D5 can heat up a loop to unsafe temps if left passive over night.


----------



## Hequaqua

Thanks! I didn't think about that. I had to dig out a sata header...threw a GT on there. I'll check the water temp in a bit and see if it drops. Yea, the pump hooked via molex runs full throttle, which is about 4800rpm or so I think.

+rep

UPDATE: Up and Running
































Temps are a couple degrees higher, but expected since I removed a 360 and 240 rad. I may add one back later. The 1ltr was just enough to fill the loop. Think the XTR for me will be just this once. I'll stick with the ModWater from ModMyMods after this.


----------



## M3TAl

Moved my system to a new case and new reservoirs(those alphacool waterfall effect ones) and seems I never got all the part 2 out from the cleaning that was done some 8 months ago. Now with the waterfall effect it can foam a bit on higher pump speeds.

Is there anything that can be added to counteract the foaming that won't destroy the fluid?


----------



## Avacado

M3TAl said:


> Moved my system to a new case and new reservoirs(those alphacool waterfall effect ones) and seems I never got all the part 2 out from the cleaning that was done some 8 months ago. Now with the waterfall effect it can foam a bit on higher pump speeds.
> 
> Is there anything that can be added to counteract the foaming that won't destroy the fluid?


If you truly suspect that to be the case, why wouldn't you just drain, flush and refill? That seems to be the only logical choice.



Hequaqua said:


> Thanks! I didn't think about that. I had to dig out a sata header...threw a GT on there. I'll check the water temp in a bit and see if it drops. Yea, the pump hooked via molex runs full throttle, which is about 4800rpm or so I think.
> 
> +rep
> 
> UPDATE: Up and Running
> 
> View attachment 2488104
> View attachment 2488105
> 
> View attachment 2488106
> View attachment 2488107
> 
> 
> Temps are a couple degrees higher, but expected since I removed a 360 and 240 rad. I may add one back later. The 1ltr was just enough to fill the loop. Think the XTR for me will be just this once. I'll stick with the ModWater from ModMyMods after this.


Looking good. I have a few MMM coolant bottles and use them often. It is just rebranded Mayhems anyway.


----------



## M3TAl

Work 50hr a week... Took long enough just to get this swap finished.


----------



## dwolvin

I'm in that comment and I don't like it...

(looks at recently rebuilt P3 loop that had no back panel)


----------



## Sir Beregond

Hequaqua said:


> Think the XTR for me will be just this once. I'll stick with the ModWater from ModMyMods after this.


Mod Water is good stuff, but curious why you are one and done with XTR? I'm still deciding if I want to go the XTR route or not.


----------



## Hequaqua

Sir Beregond said:


> Mod Water is good stuff, but curious why you are one and done with XTR? I'm still deciding if I want to go the XTR route or not.


Cost mainly. Without having the same exact hardware(rads) I'm unable to tell if there is a actual temp difference. If I had left the just one of the other rads in, then I would have needed to get at least 2lts of coolant. 

I'm not saying it's a bad product....just not cost efficient if you plan on adding/removing hardware(blocks/rad/etc). 

I'm gonna let the system run for a while with the XTR in there. It's not like my temps are that much worse going from a 360 and 240(HWL) to the single 360(RX360).


----------



## ppkstat

I am a bit puzzled about what’s happening with my new loop. It is designed to be low maintance and comprises of a MO-RA radiator, two watercool blocks and ZMT along with Tygon A-60 for tubing. It’s a plasticizer-free loop and all parts are brand new. I flushed everything with distilled water and I even blitzed (part 2) the MORA despite the fact that it was very clean to begin with (I flushed several times afterwards with distilled). For coolant I am using Mayhems XT1 nuke v2 in a 1:10 ratio. This is the definition of a problem free loop in my mind.


However, after running it for about a month I noticed some white strands floating in my res like a nylon bag does in the wind. You can see it in the picture, but it’s very thin so it’s hard to miss.









I then looked at the surface of the water in the res and there are several white particles flowing.





What the heck are these things? Performance is still stellar and the same as day 0 but I wasn’t planning to take the loop apart for a long time.


----------



## dwolvin

You've got ghosts.




But seriously, no idea.


----------



## Shawnb99

Could be leftover parts of Blitz part 2 that didn't fully flush out. I've found I had to flush my loop 3-4 times to completely remove it all but then again I have a complicated loop.

I'd leave it but keep an eye on it and see if it solidifies.


----------



## ppkstat

Shawnb99 said:


> Could be leftover parts of Blitz part 2 that didn't fully flush out. I've found I had to flush my loop 3-4 times to completely remove it all but then again I have a complicated loop.


This is certainly the most possible explanation and it has crossed my mind. However, I was very meticulous with my rinsing and these things appeared after a month. It seems somehow impossible that it took them a month to move.


----------



## Section31

Anyone try out mayhem new xtr 4nm and what were there results?


----------



## Avacado

Section31 said:


> Anyone try out mayhem new xtr 4nm and what were there results?


Someone about 10 posts back posted an XTR White shot, don't know if he's used it yet.


----------



## Hequaqua

Section31 said:


> Anyone try out mayhem new xtr 4nm and what were there results?





Avacado said:


> Someone about 10 posts back posted an XTR White shot, don't know if he's used it yet.


That would be me!....lol

So far, so good. I changed out rads, so I can't really do a direct comparison. When ambient temp is about the same, temps are fine. I moved from a couple of HWL's(360/240) to the XSPC RX360.

I am thinking about throwing the 240 back in though. If I do, I won't have enough XTR to top off the loop. So, I may just run this way for a while over the summer. We have AC so I should be able to keep ambient temps about the same. 

If you aren't going to be swapping out parts I think the XTR is fine. Personally, I probably won't use it again, not that the performance is not there, just due to the cost.


----------



## Section31

Hequaqua said:


> That would be me!....lol
> 
> So far, so good. I changed out rads, so I can't really do a direct comparison. When ambient temp is about the same, temps are fine. I moved from a couple of HWL's(360/240) to the XSPC RX360.
> 
> I am thinking about throwing the 240 back in though. If I do, I won't have enough XTR to top off the loop. So, I may just run this way for a while over the summer. We have AC so I should be able to keep ambient temps about the same.
> 
> If you aren't going to be swapping out parts I think the XTR is fine. Personally, I probably won't use it again, not that the performance is not there, just due to the cost.


i have 6l worth of it waiting for final parts before i use. Its whenever aquacomputer gets in more next flow meter (i need replacement) Curious about its performance


----------



## Shawnb99

I'm too lazy to remove all my radiators for cleaning so I'm just going to use Nuke UV black for now.


----------



## Hequaqua

Cool.....I do love the look of it for sure. As I said, even though I went to just one thick rad, temps are pretty much the same as before. Ambient plays just a big role in temps....have to keep them in check really.


----------



## jura11

Section31 said:


> i have 6l worth of it waiting for final parts before i use. Its whenever aquacomputer gets in more next flow meter (i need replacement) Curious about its performance


I have run previously Mayhems Pastel red with MPS400 and this sensor seems I killed by running Pastel coolant or fluid 

Not sure if Next Flow using similar or same sensor if yes then please confirm it with Aquacomputer if its okay to run or use Pastel coolants

That's why I switched from Mayhems Pastel to X1 for now 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Hawkjoss

Section31 said:


> Anyone try out mayhem new xtr 4nm and what were there results?


I am using Mayhems UV Purple for over a month now - no issues. I have soft tubing- no discoloration so far, looks like new ( with EK tubing and cryofuel i had before tubes turned cloudy in matter of days)


----------



## Mayhem

With Immediate effect* Mayhems Biocide +* and *Mayhems Biocide Extreme* is being renamed to *Mayhems Hades +* and *Mayhems Hades Extreme*. Barcodes and every thing will stay the same, MSDS sheets will be updated. This is due to a Single company playing games around the world..... You will find all companies with in the PC Watercooling industry will be removing the word Biocide from there product and product listings and may change wording to* Additive*.


----------



## dwolvin

Well that's annoying (for the industry)!


----------



## Mayhem

we will overcome it, . Many companies in the industry do not need to resort to below the belt tactics. Were above that .


----------



## Azone42

Question - I ordered a liter of Mayhems X1 V2 Orange, but it looks like I got the UV Orange version. Are there any differences in the color when not in UV light? I need a second bottle, and I'm past my return period, so I'll probably need to explicitly order the UV version.


----------



## Raul-7

For Mayhems XTR White, can I add non-stain blue dye to achieve the shade of blue I want?


----------



## HITTI

I use inhibitor and biocide. Also using blitz part 1 &2.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Mayhem said:


> With Immediate effect* Mayhems Biocide +* and *Mayhems Biocide Extreme* is being renamed to *Mayhems Hades +* and *Mayhems Hades Extreme*. Barcodes and every thing will stay the same, MSDS sheets will be updated. This is due to a Single company playing games around the world..... You will find all companies with in the PC Watercooling industry will be removing the word Biocide from there product and product listings and may change wording to* Additive*.


Looking to buy Mayhems Biocide but can't seem to find an online store in the US. If you can kindly provide a link preferable Performance PC. Thank you


----------



## dwolvin

ModMyMods is where I would look- they are an authorized reseller / US manufacturer. But I use XT-1 V2, it has the biocide and corrosion protection and is safe for PETG rigid (but I've never).


----------



## WiLd FyeR

For measurement for Hades (biocide) and Inhibitor. Is it 2 drops each per Liter? Or should I measure with a medicine dropper?

For Mayhems XT-1 Nuke V2, do you need to add distilled water or is it ready to use?


----------



## dwolvin

You can buy it either way, but I get the concentrate and add it to distilled locally. Less to ship.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

dwolvin said:


> You can buy it either way, but I get the concentrate and add it to distilled locally. Less to ship.


If you don't mind, what are the measurements for a liter of distilled water when using the Mayhems XT-1 Nuke V2 concentrate.

What's the difference from using Biocide/Inhibitor vs Mayhems XT-1 Nuke V2?


----------



## dwolvin

Hopefully someone will correct me if wrong, but XT-1 is Biocide, Inhibiter, and a few buffering agents or whatever Mayhem deemed important.

And I just use a fresh bottle of distilled from the local grocer.


----------



## DeXel

Just ordered XTR from Performance-PCs. What is the recommended thing do for a loop that's been using Pastel for the past 4 years (it was Blitzed before)? Just flush it out with distilled?


----------



## dwolvin

If you have blitz it wouldn't be bad, but flushing with distilled a couple of times might be fine if it's the same color.


----------



## Altimax98

Just a heads up that PPCs got a big shipment of Mayhems stuff, might be a good time to order


----------



## ppkstat

Well I am in need of help. This was the situation 3 months ago:



ppkstat said:


> I am a bit puzzled about what’s happening with my new loop. It is designed to be low maintance and comprises of a MO-RA radiator, two watercool blocks and ZMT along with Tygon A-60 for tubing. It’s a plasticizer-free loop and all parts are brand new. I flushed everything with distilled water and I even blitzed (part 2) the MORA despite the fact that it was very clean to begin with (I flushed several times afterwards with distilled). For coolant I am using Mayhems XT1 nuke v2 in a 1:10 ratio. This is the definition of a problem free loop in my mind.
> 
> 
> However, after running it for about a month I noticed some white strands floating in my res like a nylon bag does in the wind. You can see it in the picture, but it’s very thin so it’s hard to miss.
> View attachment 2489246
> 
> 
> I then looked at the surface of the water in the res and there are several white particles flowing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What the heck are these things? Performance is still stellar and the same as day 0 but I wasn’t planning to take the loop apart for a long time.


3 months later these things increased in size considerably (something like 300%). Today I decided to dislodge this formation from the bottom of the res by using some sterilized wire. It came off very easily and seems to be very frail/light. 

I then decided to have a look on the acrylic gpu block. I managed to get some photographs from beneath using my cell's macro function. Here's one. 










I ve doing this for 10 years now and I still don't know what's happening here. This was supposed to be a low maintance loop. Mayhems xt-1, Norprene tubing and heatkiller blocks. I was very meticulous with my Initial cleaning and I even Blitzed 2 the MORA which was not needed. 

I was not planning to take apart the loop for at least the next 3 years. Performance is still amazing and I don't plan to do so until I see a noticeable decrease in performance. 

Can anyone tell what's happening? Is it possible I got a bad batch of XT-1 nuke or something? This is the first time I am using the coolant (I was using pastel before for years and never had any problems).


----------



## M3TAl

My guess is left over Blitz Part 2. The stuff is a pain to completely remove. I've got leftover in my XT-1 system still. By the looks of it way, way more than you lol. Don't have the time to dismantle. Everything still working fine though. 

Pumps turned up 100% it foams up and kind of looks like Aurora in the blocks lol. At regular speeds there's white specks moving around.


----------



## ppkstat

I spoke with Mike and he thinks it's unlikely that's blitz leftover. He told me that the most probable scenario is that's a very fine layer of plastic.

He'll be sending be inhibitors+biocide to top up my loop, new XT-1 as well. I am probably trying the inhibitors+biocide first to see how it behaves and move on from there.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

inhibitors+ and biocide, need confirmation if its 2 drops per 1 liter.


----------



## Mayhem

As of the end of Next Month, September I (mick) am stepping down as Director and Owner of Mayhems Solutions Ltd. Liquid Gaming UK (https://liquidgaming.co.uk) is taking up the reins of the company and will be heavily investing in growing Mayhems Solutions Ltd. I myself am staying on as Development (I suppose you could call me a manager, but I don’t know my official title as of yet) and also training new staff members within Mayhems Solutions Ltd, however, will not be dealing with the day to day running of Mayhems any more. I Am very proud of what I have achieved in the 13/14 years of running and owning Mayhems (don't forget I started up on £5.00 and we have just last year turned over £400,000 with just a staff of 4) and I am very proud of all the companies I have worked with in the past, I am proud of the barriers we have broken through. I love the community and all the companies I have had the pleasure to meet but alas it is time to hand the reins over to the next generation and do what I do best and that is invest my time and effort into development. So from me "Mick of Mayhems" ….. Don’t phone me at 3 in the morning anymore asking how to use blitz … LOL Take care all and see you on the other side. Onwards and upwards !!!!!


----------



## dwolvin

Congrats! "Fair winds and following seas"


----------



## Mayhem

1 coolant, Any colour you wish at the flick of a switch (not RGB leds), can even program multi colour ... impossible you say .......

Below is me slapping in my mayhems logo (yes it not perfect but fluid moves what do you expect lol) and below that same product diffrent colours ......

This is what ill have more time to work on when i have time to dev.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> 1 coolant, Any colour you wish at the flick of a switch (not RGB leds), can even program multi colour ... impossible you say .......
> 
> Below is me slapping in my mayhems logo and below that same product diffrent colours ......
> 
> This is what ill have more time to work on when i have time to dev.
> 
> View attachment 2520545
> View attachment 2520546


*** witchcraft is this? When did you become a magician? 
Is this with XTR or a new fluid? How is this even possible?


----------



## Mayhem

Its all based on my XTR work and improvements.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> View attachment 2520547
> View attachment 2520548
> 
> 
> Its all based on my XTR work and improvements.


Looks amazing!


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Quick question, can the Blitz kit part 1 be used with Aquacomputer rads, specifically the airplex modularity system (with the integrated pump)?

Planning on distilled, biocide and inhibitor, figured if I could I'd use the Blitz kit because why not.

Edit, after some hunting it looks like the Aquacomputer rads are all solderless and given the size of the water tubes I suppose they should be easy to clean with a small brush or something. I'll just get part 2 of the Blitz kit.


----------



## cptclutch

So I noticed my XTR white has been slowly turning blue. I drained my loop today and found some strange clumps in the drain bottle. I’m flushing with distilled now and will be using my fresh bottle of XTR for the refill, but I’m a bit nervous. Did all the prep by the book with blitz. My blocks look okay from the outside and my temps were fine. Only thing I can think of was my pressure relief valve having some sort of reaction? Looks like there is some whitish blue gunk in the valve itself. 

Hoping that the distilled flush and some fresh XTR without the valve fixes it, but any advice would be greatly appreciated as I'm a bit nervous. My goal with XTR was to not deal with any real maintenance or issues.


----------



## turok_t

Hi everyone, I managed to get a hold of Mayhem’s Inhibitor + and Hades + for my loop. On the bottle it says. On the bottle, the instructions are “Mix 1 drop to 1 Ltr then add 1 drop every 2 to 3 months as a top up.” However, on the website, the instructions are “Mix at a Ratio 0.05% e.g 0.5ml per 1Ltr, 15ml bottle will treat 30 ltrs of coolant.”

So on one hand, it says to use 1 drop/liter, but on the website, it says to use 0.5ml/liter. I can assure you that 1 drop from the bottle (the size of 2 rice grain) is NOT 0.5ml. I have a syringe that can clearly measure 0.5ml. If I was to estimate, 15 drops looks to equate to 0.5ml. Which one is most people following? 1 drop/liter or 0.5mL/liter?

Note: If I was to use the same instructions as Mayhems older/previous product “Biocide Extreme”, even though I know its not the same/equivalent product as the Inhibitor +/Hades +, it states 1 drop/liter and that the pH should be between 6.5/8.5. I can simply put a few drops of Mayhems new inhibitor/hades + until the pH is around the range above. But I wanted to know what concentration people are using for inhibitor+/hades+ based on the instructions above.


----------



## dwolvin

cptclutch said:


> So I noticed my XTR white has been slowly turning blue. I drained my loop today and found some strange clumps in the drain bottle. I’m flushing with distilled now and will be using my fresh bottle of XTR for the refill, but I’m a bit nervous. Did all the prep by the book with blitz. My blocks look okay from the outside and my temps were fine. Only thing I can think of was my pressure relief valve having some sort of reaction? Looks like there is some whitish blue gunk in the valve itself.


Whoa, that's crazy, and I have not idea at all. Troubleshooting fluids going crazy is never easy, but I'd just start with a distilled rinse and run straight distilled a day or two to see what happens.




turok_t said:


> Hi everyone, I managed to get a hold of Mayhem’s Inhibitor + and Hades + for my loop. On the bottle it says. On the bottle, the instructions are “Mix 1 drop to 1 Ltr then add 1 drop every 2 to 3 months as a top up.” However, on the website, the instructions are “Mix at a Ratio 0.05% e.g 0.5ml per 1Ltr, 15ml bottle will treat 30 ltrs of coolant.”
> So on one hand, it says to use 1 drop/liter, but on the website, it says to use 0.5ml/liter. I can assure you that 1 drop from the bottle (the size of 2 rice grain) is NOT 0.5ml. I have a syringe that can clearly measure 0.5ml. If I was to estimate, 15 drops looks to equate to 0.5ml. Which one is most people following? 1 drop/liter or 0.5mL/liter?


Hopefully someone with real knowledge will pop up, but I have always erred toward the smaller dose if I was fairly sure of the cleanliness of the distilled water.


----------



## turok_t

dwolvin said:


> Whoa, that's crazy, and I have not idea at all. Troubleshooting fluids going crazy is never easy, but I'd just start with a distilled rinse and run straight distilled a day or two to see what happens.
> 
> Hopefully someone with real knowledge will pop up, but I have always erred toward the smaller dose if I was fairly sure of the cleanliness of the distilled water.


I was uncertain as well. If the dose was too low, i was worried that it would not be effective which would result in algae/fungi growth. If the dose was too high, it would be a waste of both additives and im not certain if there are adverse effects of overconcentration of these additives. Either way, I want to get it right to maintain my system properly


----------



## dwolvin

I shouldn't mention that I didn't measure my current loop at all, just put XT-1 (UV blue) in until there is a blue tint. Honestly, if you are using clean distilled you don't need much. If you are concerned, go for the heavier amount but it's not that big of a deal. You cleaned everything before assembly? I give everything a good rinse with warm water and then a finish with distilled, and then assemble. I've never had an issue that wasn't directly caused by me (lapse of judgement and blew out a block with my breath, and only ran distilled for a week). At some point you need to say 'damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!' and just go for it.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Blue gunk always comes out of my rads when I clean them new. Wonder if they still had gunk after the Blitz?


----------



## Shawnb99

dwolvin said:


> Whoa, that's crazy, and I have not idea at all. Troubleshooting fluids going crazy is never easy, but I'd just start with a distilled rinse and run straight distilled a day or two to see what happens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully someone with real knowledge will pop up, but I have always erred toward the smaller dose if I was fairly sure of the cleanliness of the distilled water.


Yeah i'd trust the dose on the site over the bottle since that does seem like a lot. I suggest emailing Mayhems directly and seeing what response you get. Should be good as long as you get a PH level of 7 I think


----------



## dwolvin

Sir Beregond said:


> Blue gunk always comes out of my rads when I clean them new. Wonder if they still had gunk after the Blitz?


 Blue gunk after XTR, or a different coolant?


----------



## Sir Beregond

dwolvin said:


> Blue gunk after XTR, or a different coolant?


No...when cleaning, and not necessarily gunk. More so whatever solution used to clean the rads comes out blue.


----------



## turok_t

dwolvin said:


> I shouldn't mention that I didn't measure my current loop at all, just put XT-1 (UV blue) in until there is a blue tint. Honestly, if you are using clean distilled you don't need much. If you are concerned, go for the heavier amount but it's not that big of a deal. You cleaned everything before assembly? I give everything a good rinse with warm water and then a finish with distilled, and then assemble. I've never had an issue that wasn't directly caused by me (lapse of judgement and blew out a block with my breath, and only ran distilled for a week). At some point you need to say 'damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!' and just go for it.


I pretty much dismantled every component in my loop. Cleaned every fitting, every o-ring, every piece of tube, opened and cleaned every water block and used distilled water to rinse and air dry. After the cleaning, I covered everything to avoid any dust when these parts were drying. I flushed my radiator initially with high pressure warm tap water and then I flushed it in an external loop/pump with distilled water (using a filter) for 8 hours. I let the water drain as much as I can to prevent any corrosion from remaining water and air dried my radiators.

When it was time to assemble everything again, I wore gloves to prevent any bacteria from my hands, and rinsed the parts again with distilled water in case of any dust/lint. 

This is what I did to prevent any contamination or dirt in entering my loop. I'm using the following parts:

Hardware Labs Black Ice Extreme Radiators x2
Singularity Computer Proton reservoir/pump top
Alphacool D5 Pump
EK 1080 ti block
Optimus AM4 CPU block
Barrow Fittings

I put in 16 drops of Mayhems Inhibitor+ and Mayhems Hades +, I still get a pH of around 6. Either my testing strips are inaccurate or the liquid is reacting with some metal in my loop lowering the pH. However, I'm afraid to more drops in my system since I put a lot already.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, I've never measured PH at all, and that amount of cleaning / care during assembly really should do you well for the current fluid (imho/ymmv). Also- great looking rig, are the tubes acrylic or (whatever the softer one is)?


----------



## turok_t

dwolvin said:


> Yeah, I've never measured PH at all, and that amount of cleaning / care during assembly really should do you well for the current fluid (imho/ymmv). Also- great looking rig, are the tubes acrylic or (whatever the softer one is)?


Thanks man, I know even if try my best and do my due diligence, crap will always build up overtime, it is inevitable. Even after all that cleaning and effort, i can see a small strand of acetal that is lodged in one of the fins in my CPU waterblock. It came off of the acetal threads of my GPU block or flow meter. The water flow dislodged this debris and i can see it in my CPU water block fins. it's kind of annoying me and I want to take it out so bad! (if anyone has any good ideas to remove it without having to dismantle everything, let me know). Currently, I'm using all acrylic tubing.


----------



## dwolvin

Depending on the layout, you might be able to drain and just backflow the block to dislodge...


----------



## turok_t

dwolvin said:


> Depending on the layout, you might be able to drain and just backflow the block to dislodge...


How do i backflow it? Remove a section and blow air in it to reverse the flow of the water to catch the debris?


----------



## dwolvin

Just open the inlet and outlet and flow some distilled against the listed flow (in through the out door).


----------



## Mayhem

At the end of this month if all goes ahead I will no longer own Mayhems and will be dev only after teaching all the new staff how to make everything "Mayhems". However, i'll still support ppl who contact me firstly but the gloves will be off. I have sold Mayhems to Liquid Gaming UK who did not give me the best offer but offered the best proposition (money means nothing to me) for Mayhems to grow and carry on what I believe is the correct way to proceed which is not through greed but through advancement! which is the best way forward for the company. Unlike a lot of the big names in this industry, Mayhems has always been for the advancement of the community and our hobby and as such has always to me been treated simply as an overgrown out of control hobby and nothing more, but for it to advance it needs new blood, not some 50-year-old old fart (me, mick) to run it any longer. I have had so many ideas that I have never had time to invest in due to the fact I have had to run Mayhems and well now I have the time and I intend to now help "Mayhems Solutions Ltd" push these new inventive ideas and help improve our industry, I expect as usual "other companies" to copy our work like they always have done because they are about as creative as a chocolate fireguard but hey that's life. Unlike most youtube reviews will not be paid off and bow down to their demands just to make money. Welcome to the next era, welcome to the next level, welcome to the next-gen ...... Mayhems is not just a name it's PC liquid cooling future. 

I have to add thank you to all the haters .. I love you, all you did was make me stronger!. To all my supporters once again thank you I actually love you all, to all the companies who are greedy!!!! I hope I hurt your profit margins it was funny taking huge profits from your pockets and removing the blindfolds from consumers. I started on a £5.00 note and turned it into my own house, my own car and jobs for others (yeh it took 15 years)... I'm proud I have done that and I intend to keep on doing it but this time from the sidelines. And this is for my family .......... I may be the black sheep but I'm 1 in a billion without you, without your help and on my own, I'm not the disgrace (you all are) I'm the one who broke away from you, made a life for myself and did myself proudly. 

Good night and take care all and see you on the other side !!!!!!


----------



## Stephen.

turok_t said:


> I pretty much dismantled every component in my loop. Cleaned every fitting, every o-ring, every piece of tube, opened and cleaned every water block and used distilled water to rinse and air dry. After the cleaning, I covered everything to avoid any dust when these parts were drying. I flushed my radiator initially with high pressure warm tap water and then I flushed it in an external loop/pump with distilled water (using a filter) for 8 hours. I let the water drain as much as I can to prevent any corrosion from remaining water and air dried my radiators.
> 
> When it was time to assemble everything again, I wore gloves to prevent any bacteria from my hands, and rinsed the parts again with distilled water in case of any dust/lint.
> 
> This is what I did to prevent any contamination or dirt in entering my loop. I'm using the following parts:
> 
> Hardware Labs Black Ice Extreme Radiators x2
> Singularity Computer Proton reservoir/pump top
> Alphacool D5 Pump
> EK 1080 ti block
> Optimus AM4 CPU block
> Barrow Fittings
> 
> I put in 16 drops of Mayhems Inhibitor+ and Mayhems Hades +, I still get a pH of around 6. Either my testing strips are inaccurate or the liquid is reacting with some metal in my loop lowering the pH. However, I'm afraid to more drops in my system since I put a lot already.


I could definitely see the OCD here, and can appreciate it too at the same time, I'm very thorough as well when it comes to cleaning.

But to add to it, instead of letting it air dry, to speed things up if you have a data vac blower, it'll quicken the dry time, nice warm filtered air to dry out everything before reassembly, especially good for the radiators, dry out those copper lines quick.

Unless you're cleaning everything in a truly static environment, it's almost impossible to keep everything out. Just wanna really keep the green stuff out of the water.


----------



## Avacado

Mayhem said:


> At the end of this month if all goes ahead I will no longer own Mayhems and will be dev only after teaching all the new staff how to make everything "Mayhems". However, i'll still support ppl who contact me firstly but the gloves will be off. I have sold Mayhems to Liquid Gaming UK who did not give me the best offer but offered the best proposition (money means nothing to me) for Mayhems to grow and carry on what I believe is the correct way to proceed which is not through greed but through advancement! which is the best way forward for the company. Unlike a lot of the big names in this industry, Mayhems has always been for the advancement of the community and our hobby and as such has always to me been treated simply as an overgrown out of control hobby and nothing more, but for it to advance it needs new blood, not some 50-year-old old fart (me, mick) to run it any longer. I have had so many ideas that I have never had time to invest in due to the fact I have had to run Mayhems and well now I have the time and I intend to now help "Mayhems Solutions Ltd" push these new inventive ideas and help improve our industry, I expect as usual "other companies" to copy our work like they always have done because they are about as creative as a chocolate fireguard but hey that's life. Unlike most youtube reviews will not be paid off and bow down to their demands just to make money. Welcome to the next era, welcome to the next level, welcome to the next-gen ...... Mayhems is not just a name it's PC liquid cooling future.
> 
> I have to add thank you to all the haters .. I love you, all you did was make me stronger!. To all my supporters once again thank you I actually love you all, to all the companies who are greedy!!!! I hope I hurt your profit margins it was funny taking huge profits from your pockets and removing the blindfolds from consumers. I started on a £5.00 note and turned it into my own house, my own car and jobs for others (yeh it took 15 years)... I'm proud I have done that and I intend to keep on doing it but this time from the sidelines. And this is for my family .......... I may be the black sheep but I'm 1 in a billion without you, without your help and on my own, I'm not the disgrace (you all are) I'm the one who broke away from you, made a life for myself and did myself proudly.
> 
> Good night and take care all and see you on the other side !!!!!!


So long Mick, thank you for all that you have done. I have always loved being able to correspond with you directly and see concerns/suggestions implemented in products I use daily. You will be truly missed, enjoy retirement and don't forget to stop in from time to time.

This shot is for you, taken today. Much love.


----------



## Barefooter

Mayhem said:


> At the end of this month if all goes ahead I will no longer own Mayhems and will be dev only after teaching all the new staff how to make everything "Mayhems". However, i'll still support ppl who contact me firstly but the gloves will be off. I have sold Mayhems to Liquid Gaming UK who did not give me the best offer but offered the best proposition (money means nothing to me) for Mayhems to grow and carry on what I believe is the correct way to proceed which is not through greed but through advancement! which is the best way forward for the company. Unlike a lot of the big names in this industry, Mayhems has always been for the advancement of the community and our hobby and as such has always to me been treated simply as an overgrown out of control hobby and nothing more, but for it to advance it needs new blood, not some 50-year-old old fart (me, mick) to run it any longer. I have had so many ideas that I have never had time to invest in due to the fact I have had to run Mayhems and well now I have the time and I intend to now help "Mayhems Solutions Ltd" push these new inventive ideas and help improve our industry, I expect as usual "other companies" to copy our work like they always have done because they are about as creative as a chocolate fireguard but hey that's life. Unlike most youtube reviews will not be paid off and bow down to their demands just to make money. Welcome to the next era, welcome to the next level, welcome to the next-gen ...... Mayhems is not just a name it's PC liquid cooling future.
> 
> I have to add thank you to all the haters .. I love you, all you did was make me stronger!. To all my supporters once again thank you I actually love you all, to all the companies who are greedy!!!! I hope I hurt your profit margins it was funny taking huge profits from your pockets and removing the blindfolds from consumers. I started on a £5.00 note and turned it into my own house, my own car and jobs for others (yeh it took 15 years)... I'm proud I have done that and I intend to keep on doing it but this time from the sidelines. And this is for my family .......... I may be the black sheep but I'm 1 in a billion without you, without your help and on my own, I'm not the disgrace (you all are) I'm the one who broke away from you, made a life for myself and did myself proudly.
> 
> Good night and take care all and see you on the other side !!!!!!


Congrats Mick! Now you can focus on innovating and not have to worry about the day to day business issues.

Best of luck and looking forward to what you create next!


----------



## Mayhem

Well a few new products to come from me yet.

A quick vid of the two tone colour change nano fluid from white to purple.





Video


----------



## dwolvin

Whoa! are all the colors going to be white/XTR and a color?


----------



## Mayhem

dwolvin said:


> Whoa! are all the colors going to be white/XTR and a color?


Yes we are working on diffrent versions, diffrent colours and also better led strips that allow all of this to happen.


----------



## dwolvin

Very interesting! Thanks for the info, that might make me most to some nice hardline...


----------



## gdawg3410

Mayhem said:


> Well a few new products to come from me yet.
> 
> A quick vid of the two tone colour change nano fluid from white to purple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Video


Do you know if I can use Mayhems XTR with aquacomputer d5 next pump or cpu blocks with microfins? Pump's manual says that I should not use with coolants that have micro particles or any pastel coolants. I thought that XTR was considered a clear coolant even though it blocks light. Thank you in advance!


----------



## Avacado

gdawg3410 said:


> Do you know if I can use Mayhems XTR with aquacomputer d5 next pump or cpu blocks with microfins? Pump's manual says that I should not use with coolants that have micro particles or any pastel coolants. I thought that XTR was considered a clear coolant even though it blocks light. Thank you in advance!


It's 4nm, it's not going to clog your microfins. Even the Pastel line, which has since been discontinued was fine in modern setups.


----------



## ToUtSi

I want to replace my coolant,
I used the X1 ECO series and the colour was too dark for me, I am thinking of buying the XTR Nano UV Purple but I have some questions:
-Do I have to flush loop with Blitz Kit ?
-Will I have any issue with XTR coolant due to my loop components? (LIST BELOW)
*CPU: *EKWB Velocity Copper+Plexi
*GPU: *HEATKILLER IV
*RADS: *XSPC RX360 V3 & AlphaCool Crossflow Ex240
*PUMP+RES: *AquaComputer Ultitibe D5 200 Pro 
*FITTINGS: *Rigid Tubing - Triple Seal (Chrome) LINK


----------



## Shawnb99

It’s recommended to flush with blitz kit before using XTR. Components shouldn’t matter


----------



## Avacado

ToUtSi said:


> I want to replace my coolant,
> I used the X1 ECO series and the colour was too dark for me, I am thinking of buying the XTR Nano UV Purple but I have some questions:
> -Do I have to flush loop with Blitz Kit ?
> -Will I have any issue with XTR coolant due to my loop components? (LIST BELOW)
> *CPU: *EKWB Velocity Copper+Plexi
> *GPU: *HEATKILLER IV
> *RADS: *XSPC RX360 V3 & AlphaCool Crossflow Ex240
> *PUMP+RES: *AquaComputer Ultitibe D5 200 Pro
> *FITTINGS: *Rigid Tubing - Triple Seal (Chrome) LINK
> 
> View attachment 2528476


Should you flush your loop with part #2, yes, yes you should. Do this after every coolant exchange, especially when using color. It's not 100% required, but I always do that.

No, you should not have any issues with any of the components you've listed.


----------



## Kamrooz

Thanks for everything Mick. I pretty much stick to mayhem for my liquid, still plan to do so.

Quick question if anyone knows the answer. I noticed that there is Heatkiller Clear Tubing, that states it was created in collaboration with Mayhems. Anyone know what the difference is between this product and the Mayhem Ultra Clear tubing? Need to place an order for some tubing, but performance-pcs is out of stock, and shipping from the UK is very pricey...lol.


----------



## LZRD15

Just saw this XTR update on Reddit:


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/pyv5cd

***?!? I have two bottles of XTR White 4nm that I really wanted to use… but now…

Would encourage everyone to read that post and look at those pictures before proceeding with XTR… definitely would like to know Mick’s thoughts concerning this.


----------



## Shawnb99

Interesting as I have 5 bottles still waiting to be opened


----------



## Sir Beregond

Interesting. Sounds like if you have areas of low flow or dead zones, it might lead to settling. But yeah, that 2nd pic looked bad. Chunks.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, it will be interesting to see when Shawnb99 opens bottles that have sat around for a long time...


----------



## cwills75

LZRD15 said:


> Just saw this XTR update on Reddit:
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/pyv5cd
> 
> ***?!? I have two bottles of XTR White 4nm that I really wanted to use… but now…
> 
> Would encourage everyone to read that post and look at those pictures before proceeding with XTR… definitely would like to know Mick’s thoughts concerning this.


The OP said his PC sleeps from time to time, and that distro plate definitely has a large dead zone with no flow, and he also mentions he has two fairly long drain lines where the chunks settled. Sounds like some worst-case scenarios for wanting to run an opaque fluid IMO. If running a large res/distro plate, a better solution might be using the top fill port as the return instead of a bottom one to help with flow.


----------



## Sir Beregond

cwills75 said:


> The OP said his PC sleeps from time to time, and that distro plate definitely has a large dead zone with no flow, and he also mentions he has two fairly long drain lines where the chunks settled. Sounds like some worst-case scenarios for wanting to run an opaque fluid IMO. If running a large res/distro plate, a better solution might be using the top fill port as the return instead of a bottom one to help with flow.


Yeah I've been thinking about this more and I am inclined to agree. I turn my PC off every night and often times when not in use, so was concerned. But I am using a tube res/pump so I am thinking if I get this it should be ok. 

I don't know, or maybe stick to soft tube and tried and true clear X1.

Decisions, decisions.


----------



## LZRD15

10 days and counting… no response from Mick or the new owner(s) of Mayhems… and don‘t tell me they don’t read these forums (they absolutely do!) - Use at your own risk, people. Me? I’m pissed I spent WAY too much importing two bottles of XTR White to Chicago - no way this crap goes in my system now. As Sir Beregond said: “Chunks.”

All those supposed beta testers over the last year? How about a follow-up from them? Remember that splashy Maximum PC magazine article on XTR last year? They said they’d do a follow-up article… and silence. Would love to hear from some actual long-term users of XTR… but looks like that’s not happening… and now Mick’s sold the company and retired… that’s convenient…


----------



## dwolvin

I get the anger, and would say don't use it for now. But if you have been reading this thread he retired and may not be hitting the forum so much any more (at least retired form 'Mayhems'). He's just in the lab messing around for fun at this point.


----------



## Section31

I am due for partial draining in 1-2 weeks for alderlake install. So can take an look. Probably similar to that guy where system stays off most of the time.

Still likely to continue using mayhem xtr as well. No real other alternative out there in white atm.


----------



## LZRD15

Would very much like to hear your observations Section31 after your partial draining. Thank you.


----------



## Section31

Took apart partial components and mayhem seems pretty ok. Didn’t see any white particles in the blocks. No staining either in the blocks.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Took apart partial components and mayhem seems pretty ok. Didn’t see any white particles in the blocks. No staining either in the blocks.


Good news. How long was the XTR in use?


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Good news. How long was the XTR in use?


About 3months. My machine is similar usage to reddit guy but probably even less. Usage of 3-6hours per week, sometimes zero hours.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> About 3months. My machine is similar usage to reddit guy but probably even less. Usage of 3-6hours per week, sometimes zero hours.


Yeah that's a lot of time for it to sit, settle, and clump. I think with anything, there are bound to be bad batches or a particular setup that just doesn't work well for the product. If yours did fine, then well...

Thanks, you're scenario helps put me at ease for mine when I eventually get to it.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Hi Guys, Sorry yes I no longer own Mayhems but am working on the dev side only. The last few months I've been teaching / training new staff. As for do they watch the forums? "nope they don't!" well not yet anyway. I'm slowly handing over everything to them and training them about social media and contact etc etc. But for now ill keep you all updated on what's going on. For support and direct contact with me fire me an email to [email protected] for the ATT of Michael (in the header) and I will get to grab the email.

Ref the issue with XTR , this is something we picked up on when we first made XTR in bulk and fixed and replaced all the coolants with the newer version. If you have any issues just contact me via email and ill get replacements sent out to you (please give me as many details and photos if you can so i can add them to our new database). No point PMing me on here as I haven't had time to view the net much, I do a daily round trip of 160 miles back and forth from the new company owners and to be as straight as possible as soon as I walk through the door down there its none stop (start from home at 06:00 Hrs get home at 19:30 Hrs) this is not an excuse just explaining where I've been and what is going on. I work Monday to Thursday only and it will be like this for the next 6 months.

Ill try and keep you all updated as and when I can but understand some times even my email will be slower at responding due to workloads.

In 6 months time, my role in Mayhems is development and sideline support meaning I will be supporting all the new team at Mayhems that have I have trained. We have lots of new products we are going to be working on and also some other stuff we wish to bring back but better. Cannot say too much but it is looking exciting and once I have the time ill be able to push harder and do more R&D.


Mick


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Another Update. 23/03/2023

I've been working closely with the team who now run Mayhems for about 6 months and all the staff have been fully trained up. The main guy who is mixing and making all the fluids is called Daniel and he has done an amazing job. He has re developed Mayhems X1 and XT1-Nuke concentrates to more match the premixed colours at the stated ratios. I can easily say with hand on hart hes done a better job then me . Mayhems are re working other products as well and re looking at what we sell.

Mayhems have also developed a new set of tubing which is much bluer and cleaner looking and this is now released over on the Mayhems store and liquid gaming store. It is also going into OEM production as a few companies like it so much they are replacing there own brands with it. The new tubing has higher tolerances than before and also has a much cleaner look to it and is more tolerant to harsh chemicals.

As for myself (mick) i have retired from training and working on Mayhems products directly and am now employed as a consultant and advisor for Mayhems (self employed). I will also be working on support in my spare time, meaning i can answer your questions on here more regularly and quicker (within reasonable time frames) how ever i may need to discuss with the Mayhems team before i can answer some questions, I will also start looking more at how Mayhems can support the community and modders. The team who now work on development have been well trained and i am very proud of the way they are progressing and also there ideas they have come up with. I am looking forwards to were the take Mayhems.


----------



## dwolvin

Nice! As much as a like many hardline builds, there is something good (to me) about soft tube (unless you mean hardline  )


----------



## Hawkjoss

my 2c here
I am using Mayhems XTR ( Purple ) for *one year* now - I have a post created on Mar 25th in the Pic gallery thread.

I was replacing thermal pads on my GPU yesterday, didn't drain the loop - just made the inspection - everything looks the same as a year ago. Even soft tubing is still clear almost like brand new. And I am using an o11 xl side distro plate filled up to the top - the liquid is uniform across whole reservoir

GPU/CPU temps are the same they were a year ago, so I don't think there is any fallout stuck in the fins. I will be making complete loop maintenance in about a month - I will report here my findings in terms of the blocks/ rads/fittings' cleanliness.

PS: worth mentioning - I used the full Mayhems blitz kit before I changed the liquid to XTR, so the loop was prepared very well.


----------



## Mayhem

dwolvin said:


> Nice! As much as a like many hardline builds, there is something good (to me) about soft tube (unless you mean hardline  )


 Yeh, its soft tube, Hard line is a smaller proportion of the market and the majority is still soft tubing.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Ok, is that why it seemed like Mayhems products were disappearing and not restocking (specifically stuff like X1 and XT-1 clear) from a lot of the normal US shops like MMM, PPCs, etc.? You were reformulating it...well maybe that is the wrong word, but sounds like mixing differently?


----------



## Mayhem

Sir Beregond said:


> Ok, is that why it seemed like Mayhems products were disappearing and not restocking (specifically stuff like X1 and XT-1 clear) from a lot of the normal US shops like MMM, PPCs, etc.? You were reformulating it...well maybe that is the wrong word, but sounds like mixing differently?


Yes it has been getting improved which has taken time, but also shipping prices have increased as well as normal costs. This will also affect restocking. You can always order direct from Mayhems and liquid gaming in the UK and they deliver quick and as cheap as they can.


----------



## dwolvin

Mayhem said:


> Yes it has been getting improved which has taken time, but also shipping prices have increased as well as normal costs. This will also affect restocking. You can always order direct from Mayhems and liquid gaming in the UK and they deliver quick and as cheap as they can.


So, @Mayhem ,
Is this the new company rep talking? Your sig line states the account is dormant... But Welcome! (and if it's Mick, pick one, man!)

But looking forward to the upcoming news either way!


----------



## Lobstar

I have like 4 liters of XT1 Nuke concentrate that has a 'use by' date of 05/02/2021. Other than being a slight yellow color, is it ok to use?


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Its mick at the moment on both profiles, while i train up new staff. Eventually ill hand over the reps to the normal mayhems account and keep bridge keeper as mine. p.s When at work its the mayhems one when at home its the bridge keeper one lol.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Lobstar said:


> I have like 4 liters of XT1 Nuke concentrate that has a 'use by' date of 05/02/2021. Other than being a slight yellow color, is it ok to use?


Yes if its kept at 25 to 28c it can last for years, but lower than that or over that then it starts to degrade.


----------



## Lobstar

Bridgekeeper said:


> Yes if its kept at 25 to 28c it can last for years, but lower than that or over that then it starts to degrade.


Figured as much but I failed chemistry so figured I'd ask those smarter than myself. Thank you!


----------



## AchromiK

Hi all, I purchased some Mayhem X1 clear premix and I flushed my loop with distilled water before filling, but there is just a bit of distilled water left in the loop that I can't seem to get out.

Is it okay to fill with X1 premix with just a little bit of distilled leftover or do I need to really try to get that last bit out?


----------



## Sir Beregond

AchromiK said:


> Hi all, I purchased some Mayhem X1 clear premix and I flushed my loop with distilled water before filling, but there is just a bit of distilled water left in the loop that I can't seem to get out.
> 
> Is it okay to fill with X1 premix with just a little bit of distilled leftover or do I need to really try to get that last bit out?


How much is left? If its just a tiny bit, I don't think it should hurt anything.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah- premix is about 90% distilled anyway, you will not be changing the percentages enough to matter if you get most of the distilled out.


----------



## KillerBee33

Hey guys, EK's fanboys just pissed me off so I decided to give it a rest 😅
Got a CPU-GPU loop with soft Mayhelms Ultra Clear tubes. Had nanoxia CF1 UV Green coolant for over 4 years without a single flash and no issues, recently decided to go with EK's Cryofuel Acid Green and ended with so many stains and buildups. Can you suggest a better option for UV Green Premix? Thanx.


----------



## Sir Beregond

KillerBee33 said:


> Hey guys, EK's fanboys just pissed me off so I decided to give it a rest
> Got a CPU-GPU loop with soft Mayhelms Ultra Clear tubes. Had nanoxia CF1 UV Green coolant for over 4 years without a single flash and no issues, recently decided to go with EK's Cryofuel Acid Green and ended with so many stains and buildups. Can you suggest a better option for UV Green Premix? Thanx.











ModMyMods ModWater PC Coolant- Green UV – 1 Liter (MOD-0278)


With ModWater Premium PC Coolant, you can be sure that your PC will stay cool and look good doing it. The long-awaited release of ModWater is exactly what its name suggests: A PC Coolant specifically designed f




modmymods.com





This is basically XT-1 made in the US.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


----------



## KillerBee33

Sir Beregond said:


> ModMyMods ModWater PC Coolant- Green UV – 1 Liter (MOD-0278)
> 
> 
> With ModWater Premium PC Coolant, you can be sure that your PC will stay cool and look good doing it. The long-awaited release of ModWater is exactly what its name suggests: A PC Coolant specifically designed f
> 
> 
> 
> 
> modmymods.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is basically XT-1 made in the US.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


Thanx, but it looks a bit cheap for a Premium product. Have you used this yourself?


----------



## Sir Beregond

KillerBee33 said:


> Thanx, but it looks a bit cheap for a Premium product. Have you used this yourself?


It's quality. Mayhem's showed MMM how to make it and Mick confirmed it is essentially a formulation of Mayhems XT-1.

I have 3 bottles of the clear myself.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


----------



## KillerBee33

Sir Beregond said:


> It's quality. Mayhem's showed MMM how to make it and Mick confirmed it is essentially a formulation of Mayhems XT-1.
> 
> I have 3 bottles of the clear myself.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


Thanx again, I'll give it a shot. About to add new GPU and another 360 to the loop so decided to ask. 🤟
Edit: Is this Blitz Pt2 safe?


----------



## dwolvin

Just make sure you follow the Blitz instructions for final rinse, it's (basically) from the same company.


----------



## KillerBee33

dwolvin said:


> Just make sure you follow the Blitz instructions for final rinse, it's (basically) from the same company.


Did 30H and 12H distilled last time. Seemed to work out well.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Yep just do the Blitz part 2 properly and should be good.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


----------



## acoustic

Sir Beregond said:


> It's quality. Mayhem's showed MMM how to make it and Mick confirmed it is essentially a formulation of Mayhems XT-1.
> 
> I have 3 bottles of the clear myself.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


I had no idea that's true. Oh FUUUUUCK yeah. I stocked up on XT-1 Nuke Clear Concentrate when I heard Mayhem's got sold.. I have about 3 1/2 bottles left. I'll be good for a bit, but at least I know I can always change it up now without worrying.

edit: having read through this thread, sounds like Mick left the company in good hands. That's great to see.


----------



## KillerBee33

Question: Adding a brand new 360 rad. and a new GPU with a block, the 360 and a CPU block have EK Cryofuel running now (wont be deep cleaning those). Should I run Blitz before filling it with a new coolant?>


----------



## acoustic

Doesn't necessarily need to be Blitz, but I would definitely flush the rads with some distilled water and/or hot tap water. If you do the tap water, just make sure to flush it clean with some distilled or some of the coolant before running it in the loop.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Mick's confirmation MMM is a formulation of XT-1.



Mayhem said:


> MMM is based off XT-1 tweaked for them.
> Corsair is based off X1 tweaked to there specs.
> 
> Hope this helps.


EDIT: Note, this was posted 2 years ago and the Corsair OEM has changed as has their product name. XL5 was the Mayhems X1. XL8 is not Mayhems and Corsair has called it incompatible with XL5.


----------



## D-EJ915

I have modwater uv green in my newest build and it's pretty bright green, not used it with UV so can't comment there. excuse the crap cable management and such lol, this is with the RGB set to white and mayhems clear tubing.


----------



## KillerBee33

D-EJ915 said:


> I have modwater uv green in my newest build and it's pretty bright green, not used it with UV so can't comment there. excuse the crap cable management and such lol, this is with the RGB set to white and mayhems clear tubing.


Was gonna ask someone with UV on. This is Cryofuel with UV. Ordered Modwater UV Green last night, might put everything together with in the next few weeks and I'll make sure to post it here.


----------



## acoustic

Sir Beregond said:


> Mick's confirmation MMM is a formulation of XT-1.


So even XL8 is still a Mayhem formula. That's good to know.


----------



## ciarlatano

acoustic said:


> So even XL8 is still a Mayhem formula. That's good to know.


In no way, shape or form does it say that. That was posted almost two years prior to the existence of XL8, and it has been stated elsewhere that XL8 is not Mayhems formula, and Corsair themselves has stated that XL8 is a different formula and OEM, and is incompatible with XL5.


----------



## acoustic

ciarlatano said:


> In no way, shape or form does it say that. That was posted almost two years prior to the existence of XL8, and it has been stated elsewhere that XL8 is not Mayhems formula, and Corsair themselves has stated that XL8 is a different formula and OEM, and is incompatible with XL5.


Oh. Nevermind then. I didn't look at the link, only the quoted snippet.

Oof.


----------



## Sir Beregond

acoustic said:


> So even XL8 is still a Mayhem formula. That's good to know.


No. That was posted when it was XL5.

Will edit that post to clarify.


----------



## KillerBee33

It's not all done yet, but DAYYMM this thing is bright. So glad I asked and again, thank you Sir Beregond. My phone can't even handle the color and brightness of this .


----------



## Sir Beregond

KillerBee33 said:


> It's not all done yet, but DAYYMM this thing is bright. So glad I asked and again, thank you Sir Beregond
> View attachment 2557344
> 
> View attachment 2557388
> 
> My phone can't even handle the color and brightness of this .


Very nice! ModWater lookin' good!

Just finished cleaning my new Alphacool GPU block for my 3080 Ti FE that came in last week with a Blitz Part 2 run and subsequent flushes. Hope to get started on the loop this weekend.


----------



## KillerBee33

Sir Beregond said:


> Very nice! ModWater lookin' good!
> 
> Just finished cleaning my new Alphacool GPU block for my 3080 Ti FE that came in last week with a Blitz Part 2 run and subsequent flushes. Hope to get started on the loop this weekend.


Yeah, I did Pt2 all Tuesday but yesterday decided to take everything apart and wash it in the sink 😅. Small issue, ran out of Thermal Grizzly Extreme and not very happy with Alphacool paste. But I'm surprised how Modwater just settled in under 8 hours, not a micro bubble in sight.


----------



## Sir Beregond

KillerBee33 said:


> Yeah, I did Pt2 all Tuesday but yesterday decided to take everything apart and wash it in the sink 😅. Small issue, ran out of Thermal Grizzly Extreme and not very happy with Alphacool paste. But I'm surprised how Modwater just settled in under 8 hours, not a micro bubble in sight.


Nice! I love it when an air bleed goes easy. 

I'm giving MX-5 a try for mine. The old Kryonaut just didn't last very long although I was very happy with its performance for the first 6ish months of use after application. How has the Extreme been?


----------



## KillerBee33

Sir Beregond said:


> Nice! I love it when an air bleed goes easy.
> 
> I'm giving MX-5 a try for mine. The old Kryonaut just didn't last very long although I was very happy with its performance for the first 6ish months of use after application. How has the Extreme been?


Still have the same bubble I can't seem to get rid of in my cpu block, not sure how I feel about it. Has nothing to do with the coolant, it's just physics with my setup.







TGExtreme is on the the expensive side but it did wonders when I had it. (sold) TitanXp seen 60's with any other paste but with TGE never even hit 55, 10900K used to dip into 80's and with TGE 76 was it's peak.
Last drop went to my CPU before I decided to take everything apart yesterday. Sat @ 24 (idle) in 75 room and with Alphacool it's 26 in 75. Not much but it is a difference.


----------



## acoustic

I swear by KingpinX thermal paste. Have it on my GPU, and on my CPU. Works phenomenal.. GPU paste is a little over a year old and no regression


----------



## |-Goku-|

Hawkjoss said:


> my 2c here
> I am using Mayhems XTR ( Purple ) for *one year* now - I have a post created on Mar 25th in the Pic gallery thread.
> 
> I was replacing thermal pads on my GPU yesterday, didn't drain the loop - just made the inspection - everything looks the same as a year ago. Even soft tubing is still clear almost like brand new. And I am using an o11 xl side distro plate filled up to the top - the liquid is uniform across whole reservoir
> 
> GPU/CPU temps are the same they were a year ago, so I don't think there is any fallout stuck in the fins. I will be making complete loop maintenance in about a month - I will report here my findings in terms of the blocks/ rads/fittings' cleanliness.
> 
> PS: worth mentioning - I used the full Mayhems blitz kit before I changed the liquid to XTR, so the loop was prepared very well.


Can I ask what tubing you are using? I am swapping out my tubing when I get my XTR.


----------



## KillerBee33

I need a suggestion from a Physics point. What would be the best place to add a drain or a quick disconnect in this setup? Had this (and most likely keep this) setup for a while, decided to finally have a quicker option to clean or change things. This might be off topic here and if you can point me to the right thread it would be great.


----------



## dwolvin

You could make a thread, but here is probably fine... Basically you want the drain to be easily dumpable. Bottom of the loop, preferably after the pump if you can (because the pump can help empty). I've always just used low point and gravity- if you open the high point of the loop after getting ready to dump it usually empties 90% of the loop in seconds.


----------



## KillerBee33

dwolvin said:


> You could make a thread, but here is probably fine... Basically you want the drain to be easily dumpable. Bottom of the loop, preferably after the pump if you can (because the pump can help empty). I've always just used low point and gravity- if you open the high point of the loop after getting ready to dump it usually empties 90% of the loop in seconds.


In my case it's the IN or the Out on the GPU I guess. I can probably do something with that.


----------



## dwolvin

Honestly, I think I might put a T on the rad output and drain the case sitting on it's back...


----------



## KillerBee33

dwolvin said:


> Honestly, I think I might put a T on the rad output and drain the case sitting on it's back...


You mean top rad. left-front?
Edit: Then I guess the front has to be laying flat off a side of a table.
Did you mean something like this attached to the top rad outport?


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## ArchStanton

@KillerBee33 will you have access to a small air compressor when you perform your next maintenance?


----------



## KillerBee33

ArchStanton said:


> @KillerBee33 will you have access to a small air compressor when you perform your next maintenance?


Do you mean something like EK's Leak Tester? No, I don't have one.


----------



## dwolvin

KillerBee33 said:


> You mean top rad. left-front?
> Edit: Then I guess the front has to be laying flat off a side of a table.
> Did you mean something like this attached to the top rad outport?
> View attachment 2558208


Yep- that's pretty much exactly what I was thinking.


----------



## KillerBee33

dwolvin said:


> Yep- that's pretty much exactly what I was thinking.


HEHE, looked in to this and this is what I'm gonna need ...30mm male to male extender (rotary at one end)+ 3 way splitter (all female)+ drain valve+ cap+ 3/8-5/8 rotary. I've got little less than 2 inches between the front glass and top radiator outlet so the splitter with drain valve has to be able to rotate. Reason for at least 30mm extender is my Arctic Bionix fans are 30mm thick.
Edit: I doubt I'll find those exact things so there will be two more rotary extenders involved around the splitter. Just ordered Thermal Grizzly Extreme, I'm gonna try to wrap all around the front of the gpu and pop the tube out of the gpu outlet.


----------



## ArchStanton

KillerBee33 said:


> Do you mean something like EK's Leak Tester? No, I don't have one.


No, I meant just a run of the mill air compressor. The reason I asked is that I have seen quite a few "pro" users indicate that they now "blow" the coolant out of their rigs rather than drain it out. It is supposed to be much faster and more thorough. I plan to attempt it at my next loop maintenance. I think using compressed air would allow one to put the "drain" port anywhere one would like (presumably a port one can install an additional length of tubing in to transport the coolant away from the system as it is blown out).


----------



## KillerBee33

ArchStanton said:


> No, I meant just a run of the mill air compressor. The reason I asked is that I have seen quite a few "pro" users indicate that they now "blow" the coolant out of their rigs rather than drain it out. It is supposed to be much faster and more thorough. I plan to attempt it at my next loop maintenance. I think using compressed air would allow one to put the "drain" port anywhere one would like (presumably a port one can install an additional length of tubing in to transport the coolant away from the system as it is blown out).


Do you have a link to this product in mind?


----------



## Avacado

ArchStanton said:


> No, I meant just a run of the mill air compressor. The reason I asked is that I have seen quite a few "pro" users indicate that they now "blow" the coolant out of their rigs rather than drain it out. It is supposed to be much faster and more thorough. I plan to attempt it at my next loop maintenance. I think using compressed air would allow one to put the "drain" port anywhere one would like (presumably a port one can install an additional length of tubing in to transport the coolant away from the system as it is blown out).


Gawd. Putting your bacteria breath into a loop is just idiotic. We've been using datavacs for years to remove excess coolant from loops. I imagine an air compressor could do it more efficiently, but I would worry about putting excess pressure on fittings (I know I would use too much PSI). Even with vacuum/pressure, having the fluid exit the lowest possible point in a loop is much easier than overcoming gravity. Not that it can't be done.


----------



## KillerBee33

Avacado said:


> Gawd. Putting your bacteria breath into a loop is just idiotic. We've been using datavacs for years to remove excess coolant from loops. I imagine an air compressor could do it more efficiently, but I would worry about putting excess pressure on fittings (I know I would use too much PSI). Even with vacuum/pressure, having the fluid exit the lowest possible point in a loop is much easier than overcoming gravity. Not that it can't be done.


Humm, I got one of those but it's to powerful with only 2 settings







.


----------



## Avacado

KillerBee33 said:


> Humm, I got one of those but it's to powerful with only 2 settings
> View attachment 2558278
> 
> .


You would think so, but it's not. Should work just fine.


----------



## ArchStanton

Avacado said:


> I would worry about putting excess pressure on fittings


Same here, I plan to start with something in the 10-15 psi range (compressor has an adjustable pressure regulator like most).


----------



## KillerBee33

Avacado said:


> You would think so, but it's not. Should work just fine.


Hehe, useless in my situation. I only have one point open for fill/drain.


----------



## ciarlatano

dwolvin said:


> Honestly, I think I might put a T on the rad output and drain the case sitting on it's back...


This. I was about to suggest exactly the same thing.


----------



## KillerBee33

Deleted


----------



## Shawnb99

ArchStanton said:


> No, I meant just a run of the mill air compressor. The reason I asked is that I have seen quite a few "pro" users indicate that they now "blow" the coolant out of their rigs rather than drain it out. It is supposed to be much faster and more thorough. I plan to attempt it at my next loop maintenance. I think using compressed air would allow one to put the "drain" port anywhere one would like (presumably a port one can install an additional length of tubing in to transport the coolant away from the system as it is blown out).


Most tend to use a Datavac. It can drain my 5L system in under 10 seconds. Helps if you use a deeper bucket as there can be spray back. Although "anywhere" can work be aware where in your loop your drain is compared to where your blowing, depending on how complicated your setup is that is. 










DataVac® Electric Duster® ED-500


DataVac® Electric Duster® is modeled to blast dust, dirt, and debris off of your expensive tech equipment. Buy your easy-to-use power blower today!



metrovac.com


----------



## Avacado

Shawnb99 said:


> Most tend to use a Datavac. It can drain my 5L system in under 10 seconds. Helps if you use a deeper bucket as there can be spray back. Although "anywhere" can work be aware where in your loop your drain is compared to where your blowing, depending on how complicated your setup is that is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DataVac® Electric Duster® ED-500
> 
> 
> DataVac® Electric Duster® is modeled to blast dust, dirt, and debris off of your expensive tech equipment. Buy your easy-to-use power blower today!
> 
> 
> 
> metrovac.com


Wel, well, well. Look who's back.


----------



## Shawnb99

Avacado said:


> Wel, well, well. Look who's back.


I snuck back in while they were sleeping....


----------



## Sir Beregond

dwolvin said:


> Honestly, I think I might put a T on the rad output and drain the case sitting on it's back...


Yes. I put a t-fitting on my low mounted radiator and put a ball valve fitting on it. When it comes time to drain, will just need to tip the case.


----------



## Turgin

So I'm in the middle loop maintenance and saw these posts about using a datavac to assist with draining. Now, I plan my loops from the very beginning with maintenance in mind so mine drains pretty well already. This just took it up another level to get even more out. Awesome tip!


----------



## KillerBee33

dwolvin said:


> Honestly, I think I might put a T on the rad output and drain the case sitting on it's back...


I think I got it ...


----------



## dwolvin

I feel you mean drain on the middle of the 'T', extension and long side of the 'T' inline, but where is the 45deg bend going?


----------



## KillerBee33

dwolvin said:


> I feel you mean drain on the middle of the 'T', extension and long side of the 'T' inline, but where is the 45deg bend going?


1 into the rad, 2 into 1, 3 into 2 and 4 into 2. The whole constructed piece is the Out of the top rad. and into gpu. Gonna have a small tube from 45deg into the GPU.
T-Piece with Valve will be able to rotate, basically laying it flat front side down, open the valve and let it drain.







Edit: I also got an XPOWER Blower so I can try and use that from the fill side on the Swiftech Unit


----------



## dwolvin

Gotcha!


----------



## KillerBee33

dwolvin said:


> Gotcha!


Yeah, right now I only have one opening for draining and filling. Filling this is easy but draining is a nightmare. Hopefully this monstrosity I'm building will help 😅


----------



## KillerBee33

dwolvin said:


> Gotcha!


This is what I got...I may have to rethink the 45deg. piece, couldn't find a straight 3/8-5/8 rotary.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Who would like to see a new version (original formula but better) of pastel re-released ?????? Yes, the one that has lasted over 14 years in a system but this time better !!!!!!!


----------



## acoustic

Bridgekeeper said:


> Who would like to see a new version (original formula but better) of pastel re-released ?????? Yes, the one that has lasted over 14 years in a system but this time better !!!!!!!


Anything you're involved in, send it!


----------



## Bridgekeeper

acoustic said:


> Anything you're involved in, send it!


In the past, i would be able to claim all of it however this time I have a team who are just as passionate as me (if not more so) but younger and they are the ones to hold the chalice, I'm just the one who is giving my input and advice and maybe a little nudge in the right direction now and then. On Friday I pulled out my tools with a gob wide open by the end of the day and excitement in my heart. Next week I'm taking more tools and more equipment and if all goes well we will move on to the next stage. Their response was!!!!! You just dipped your finger in, smelled it, tasted it and looked at it and smiled are you mad. Then i pulled out the Zeta potential and nano analytical results and smiled. Next week will be the thermal tests and then we move to full-scale testing .... I can honestly say i am proud of "Daniel", "Lee" and everyone involved in Mayhems and what they are doing !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## acoustic

So glad to know that you're satisfied with the direction the company is going. Props to you for not taking the money and letting the brand you built go to ****.

Makes me confident to continue using Mayhem products and recommending to others.

Keep crushing it brother


----------



## Bridgekeeper

acoustic said:


> So glad to know that you're satisfied with the direction the company is going. Props to you for not taking the money and letting the brand you built go to ****.
> 
> Makes me confident to continue using Mayhem products and recommending to others.
> 
> Keep crushing it brother


I didn't take the best offer, I took the least offer for Mayhems but with good reason. Too many companies wanted to buy me out and take it to china or bring down Mayhems. That for me was a big no-no. I needed to see enthusiasm and passion and that to me was the point of selling. I had to see what I have done for 14 years with a proviso of don't be me! be better. Every time I go visit now i am proud of what they are doing, proud of what they would like to see happen and proud of their work ethics. I could have never asked for more. I just hope our community sticks with them!!!!


----------



## acoustic

Bridgekeeper said:


> Mate sorry I've had a drink. I didn't take the best offer, I took the least offer for Mayhems but with good reason. Too many companies wanted to buy me out and take it to china or bring down Mayhems. That for me was a big no-no. I needed to see enthusiasm and passion and that to me was the point of selling. I had to see what I have done for 14 years with a proviso of don't be me! be better. Every time I go visit now i am proud of what they are doing, proud of what they would like to see happen and proud of their work ethics. I could have never asked for more. I just hope our community sticks with them!!!!


I hope it does too! I'm with ya!


----------



## Avacado

Bridgekeeper said:


> I didn't take the best offer, I took the least offer for Mayhems but with good reason. Too many companies wanted to buy me out and take it to china or bring down Mayhems. That for me was a big no-no. I needed to see enthusiasm and passion and that to me was the point of selling. I had to see what I have done for 14 years with a proviso of don't be me! be better. Every time I go visit now i am proud of what they are doing, proud of what they would like to see happen and proud of their work ethics. I could have never asked for more. I just hope our community sticks with them!!!!


We support them as we have supported you. Next time you link up with them, you should encourage them to have a presence here.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

I have spoken to them about it and I'm hoping Daniel will take over my older account (mayhems). The problem they have is they are overloaded with work and support and not enough time for everything else. Daniel and Lee have learnt a lot over the last few months and are doing really well and i don't want to push too hard and would rather let them go at their own pace.


----------



## Avacado

Bridgekeeper said:


> I have spoken to them about it and I'm hoping Daniel will take over my older account (mayhems). The problem they have is they are overloaded with work and support and not enough time for everything else. Daniel and Lee have learnt a lot over the last few months and are doing really well and i don't want to push too hard and would rather let them go at their own pace.


You da bomb Mick.


----------



## dr/owned

If I want to switch over from X1 to XT for longer system-life (years), do I need to flush the whole deal out with water or can I do a basic drain of the X1 and then fill with XT where a few drops of X1 isn't a big deal?


----------



## ciarlatano

dr/owned said:


> If I want to switch over from X1 to XT for longer system-life (years), do I need to flush the whole deal out with water or can I do a basic drain of the X1 and then fill with XT where a few drops of X1 isn't a big deal?


A loop cleaning is always advised when changing from one fluid to another. Blitz Pt 2 works very well for this.


----------



## dr/owned

Times goes faster than I thought. Turns out these 2 bottles of XT-1 Clear that I have are almost 10 years old (maybe even that old depending on when FrozenCPU took delivery vs. production). If you had asked me I would have sworn these were like 2016.



















Any interest @Bridgekeeper in taking it back for testing on long term shelf life. Storage was about as proper as anyone can get: dark, temperature controlled, sealed baggie.


----------



## paradoxum

I am still using the single bottle of Biocide I bought about 12 years ago. It has kept my loop perfectly clean the entire time. Great stuff.


----------



## Blackops_2

So is pastel not a thing anymore? Looking to switch from purple to blue and move to hard tubing on one of my builds.


----------



## dwolvin

You can still buy it (I am pretty sure), but most people got tired of it and switched to colored tubing or EPDM (solid black).


----------



## ciarlatano

Blackops_2 said:


> So is pastel not a thing anymore? Looking to switch from purple to blue and move to hard tubing on one of my builds.





Bridgekeeper said:


> Who would like to see a new version (original formula but better) of pastel re-released ?????? Yes, the one that has lasted over 14 years in a system but this time better !!!!!!!


----------



## mokrunka

Hey folks, working on picking out my coolant for the rebuild. Currently have EK Cryofuel clear, which I'm actually not unhappy with - 2 years in with clear primochill tubing and no issues. But reading around it seems maybe I got lucky, so I'd like to try Mayhems coolant. 

At any rate, I read that the mayhems XT-1 is not suitable for the primochill advanced LRT tubing (which I'll be using), so I'm assuming that this means MMM modwater (which seems to be confirmed in this thread as identical to XT-1) should also not be used. Does that mean my best option is for the X1V2 clear stuff (i want clear), and that it'll be ok to use with my LRT tubing?


----------



## dwolvin

I can't say with certainty, but I have used X1v2 in a random selection of clear tube (including aLRT) and never had a problem. It seems to be really friendly. I'm using clear UV blue because I want to be able to see leaks (and it was on sale).


----------



## KillerBee33

mokrunka said:


> Hey folks, working on picking out my coolant for the rebuild. Currently have EK Cryofuel clear, which I'm actually not unhappy with - 2 years in with clear primochill tubing and no issues. But reading around it seems maybe I got lucky, so I'd like to try Mayhems coolant.
> 
> At any rate, I read that the mayhems XT-1 is not suitable for the primochill advanced LRT tubing (which I'll be using), so I'm assuming that this means MMM modwater (which seems to be confirmed in this thread as identical to XT-1) should also not be used. Does that mean my best option is for the X1V2 clear stuff (i want clear), and that it'll be ok to use with my LRT tubing?


Also had Cryofuel UV green and it was a disaster after 3 months. Went with ModWater UV Green and quite pleased with it. Using Mayhems Ultra Clear.


----------



## mokrunka

Thanks for the feedback everyone. Went ahead and changed course and bought some of the EPDM Alphacool tubing and the XT-1 from MMM. btw, their customer service was extremely helpful.


----------



## vf-

mokrunka said:


> Hey folks, working on picking out my coolant for the rebuild. Currently have EK Cryofuel clear, which I'm actually not unhappy with - 2 years in with clear primochill tubing and no issues. But reading around it seems maybe I got lucky, so I'd like to try Mayhems coolant.
> 
> At any rate, I read that the mayhems XT-1 is not suitable for the primochill advanced LRT tubing (which I'll be using), so I'm assuming that this means MMM modwater (which seems to be confirmed in this thread as identical to XT-1) should also not be used. Does that mean my best option is for the X1V2 clear stuff (i want clear), and that it'll be ok to use with my LRT tubing?


I'd love to know how and what the secret is to Cryofuel out of sheer curiosity. There seems to be rare good batches going about.

All I can say is XT-1 V2 clear still looks gorgeous in my resorvoir. I think the coolants I'll be sticking with is Mayhem's and would like to try at some point AquaComputer's DP Ultra. Though, it's £30 - £35 a bottle versus Mayhem's XT-1 V2 clear at £10 - £11.


----------



## Sir Beregond

So I have a question. I had an opened bottle of clear XT-1 Nuke. What's filled up in the system is absolutely fine, however, I just happened to pull the open bottle out of my parts closet and the thing was all gunked up. It looks gunked up the same way my defective bottles of MMM ModWater from January looked when I opened them. Is this expected behavior for an open bottle with only a little coolant left in it? Probably less than 100ml.

I have a second bottle right next to it that looks prestine, but it is unopened.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


----------



## acoustic

Tried shaking it?


----------



## mokrunka

vf- said:


> I'd love to know how and what the secret is to Cryofuel out of sheer curiosity. There seems to be rare good batches going about.
> 
> All I can say is XT-1 V2 clear still looks gorgeous in my resorvoir. I think the coolants I'll be sticking with is Mayhem's and would like to try at some point AquaComputer's DP Ultra. Though, it's £30 - £35 a bottle versus Mayhem's XT-1 V2 clear at £10 - £11.


Yep, agree on the topic of Cryofuel. I am going to just try something different this time, and go with alphacool alphatube epdm, and modmymods clear coolant, which I gather is the same forumulation as the XT-1 from mayhems (according to the forums and the MMM support guy). We'll see how it goes.

Honestly, in my 15 years of WC, I've always used clear coolant, in the early days it was silver kill coil + PT Nuke + distilled, and more recently either cryofuel clear, or straight distilled + biocide. I've never had an issue with buildup, plasticizer leaching (in all but one case, I was using clear primochill tubing though), nickel plating flaking, etc. Maybe I got lucky, maybe not, but I don't normally clean my loop but every 2-3 years, generally when I upgrade, unless I just have some extra free time and want a weekend project.


----------



## KillerBee33

mokrunka said:


> Yep, agree on the topic of Cryofuel. I am going to just try something different this time, and go with alphacool alphatube epdm, and modmymods clear coolant, which I gather is the same forumulation as the XT-1 from mayhems (according to the forums and the MMM support guy). We'll see how it goes.
> 
> Honestly, in my 15 years of WC, I've always used clear coolant, in the early days it was silver kill coil + PT Nuke + distilled, and more recently either cryofuel clear, or straight distilled + biocide. I've never had an issue with buildup, plasticizer leaching (in all but one case, I was using clear primochill tubing though), nickel plating flaking, etc. Maybe I got lucky, maybe not, but I don't normally clean my loop but every 2-3 years, generally when I upgrade, unless I just have some extra free time and want a weekend project.


Personal experience with few Pre Mixes. Nanoxia CF1 UV Green 4 years-first Flush...EDIT: not a Flush, just drained.







First attempt with EK Cryofuel UV Green about 3 months in







Second attemp with EK Cryofuel UV Green about 3 months in







ModWater UV Green 3 months in. No color change, no build ups, not even a micro bubble.


----------



## ciarlatano

mokrunka said:


> Yep, agree on the topic of Cryofuel. I am going to just try something different this time, and go with alphacool alphatube epdm, and modmymods clear coolant, which I gather is the same forumulation as the XT-1 from mayhems (according to the forums and the MMM support guy). We'll see how it goes.
> 
> Honestly, in my 15 years of WC, I've always used clear coolant, in the early days it was silver kill coil + PT Nuke + distilled, and more recently either cryofuel clear, or straight distilled + biocide. I've never had an issue with buildup, plasticizer leaching (in all but one case, I was using clear primochill tubing though), nickel plating flaking, etc. Maybe I got lucky, maybe not, but I don't normally clean my loop but every 2-3 years, generally when I upgrade, unless I just have some extra free time and want a weekend project.


I'm about 15 years in, as well. Started on distilled with a kill coil which tarnished my nickel blocks, moved to Switch fluids which were fine, got a bottle of the counterfeit XSPC that were floating around and had an algae nightmare after two months, then switched to X1 and never had any sort of issues. I bought into the hype and tried Advanced LRT....big mistake. Kinked much easier than the PPC in house brand and had plasticizer just a few months in. ZMT was a complete disaster with the dirt and being out of spec. Tygon A-60-G all the way now and never an issue.


----------



## Sir Beregond

acoustic said:


> Tried shaking it?


Quite vigorously for a bit. Didn't do much.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


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## CaliLife17

So it seems from last time I ordered my Mayhem XTR - White, Mr Mayhem retired, and I can now no longer find any in stock around the world. 

I am moving out of my CaseLabs into a small case + Mo-Ra3 420 and need more coolant. Seems like I will now need to move over to something else for coolant. What is best way to clean blocks and the 1 or so radiator I am going to re-use in new case? Just a blitzs cleaning kit? Using EK ZMT so hoping that wash cleans pretty easily.


----------



## dwolvin

Personally, a soak of the rad and run the block parts through a jewelry cleaner. I try not to recycle tubes, but a flush with vinegar water and a look with a good light should tell you if they are still good to go. At least you should be able to see if the tubes are cleaned out with opaque white...


----------



## Shawnb99

CaliLife17 said:


> So it seems from last time I ordered my Mayhem XTR - White, Mr Mayhem retired, and I can now no longer find any in stock around the world.
> 
> I am moving out of my CaseLabs into a small case + Mo-Ra3 420 and need more coolant. Seems like I will now need to move over to something else for coolant. What is best way to clean blocks and the 1 or so radiator I am going to re-use in new case? Just a blitzs cleaning kit? Using EK ZMT so hoping that wash cleans pretty easily.


You can reuse the XTR, just needs to be filtered through a coffee filter. Otherwise flush the radiators and everything with distilled water right away. Letting XTR dry will result in a coating that’s a pain to remove. 
I’d suggest a flush of blitz part 2 as well just to be safe.
I’m hoping to keep my XTR in use for as long as I can for the same reasons. It was very disappointing to waste all this money on the fluid. Never again.


----------



## CaliLife17

dwolvin said:


> Personally, a soak of the rad and run the block parts through a jewelry cleaner. I try not to recycle tubes, but a flush with vinegar water and a look with a good light should tell you if they are still good to go. At least you should be able to see if the tubes are cleaned out with opaque white...


I don't have a jewerly cleaner so might have to go the ole toothbrush method. Ya I might just buy new tubing to remove any doubt. For the fittings, wash with distilled water good? 



Shawnb99 said:


> You can reuse the XTR, just needs to be filtered through a coffee filter. Otherwise flush the radiators and everything with distilled water right away. Letting XTR dry will result in a coating that’s a pain to remove.
> I’d suggest a flush of blitz part 2 as well just to be safe.
> I’m hoping to keep my XTR in use for as long as I can for the same reasons. It was very disappointing to waste all this money on the fluid. Never again.


I was thinking about re-using XTR, but I would still need to buy more is the problem since Mo-Ra3 takes almost 3 liters itself. So I think I am just going to move away from XTR and go to like clear XT-1, something much easier to find now and in the future. If mr Mayhem was still working and XTR was easy find I might stay with it, but that's not the case. 

For the fittings do you think distilled water rinse is good enough?


----------



## dwolvin

Honestly, I can't say. But if they look clean, should be fine. Q-tip/bottle brush/whatever if not. I reuse fittings as long as they are not corroded.


----------



## Shawnb99

CaliLife17 said:


> I don't have a jewerly cleaner so might have to go the ole toothbrush method. Ya I might just buy new tubing to remove any doubt. For the fittings, wash with distilled water good?
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about re-using XTR, but I would still need to buy more is the problem since Mo-Ra3 takes almost 3 liters itself. So I think I am just going to move away from XTR and go to like clear XT-1, something much easier to find now and in the future. If mr Mayhem was still working and XTR was easy find I might stay with it, but that's not the case.
> 
> For the fittings do you think distilled water rinse is good enough?


Yeah distilled should be good enough. It’s just a pain to clean if it dries since it leaves a coating.


----------



## acoustic

"Mr. Mayhem" is still with the company and is directing the training of the new employees dealing with formulation of the product. He's posted multiple times in this thread saying such..

Really not fair to keep repeating that "Mr. Mayhem" is no longer with the company when that's not the case. From what he's said himself, he's still involved.


----------



## CaliLife17

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah distilled should be good enough. It’s just a pain to clean if it dries since it leaves a coating.


Ya everything I have read says to not let it dry as it like hardens and is game over LOL. I think for AC High Flow Next sensor, I am just going to run a bunch of distilled water through it to try and flush it all out. Same with the D5 next pumps. No other way to really "clean" those.



acoustic said:


> "Mr. Mayhem" is still with the company and is directing the training of the new employees dealing with formulation of the product. He's posted multiple times in this thread saying such..
> 
> Really not fair to keep repeating that "Mr. Mayhem" is no longer with the company when that's not the case. From what he's said himself, he's still involved.


Fair point. I will revise my statement to he no longer be the lead of the product. Between that change and not being able to find XTR white in stock anywhere around the world, it doesn't make sense for me to continue to use XTR at this time.


----------



## Shawnb99

acoustic said:


> "Mr. Mayhem" is still with the company and is directing the training of the new employees dealing with formulation of the product. He's posted multiple times in this thread saying such..
> 
> Really not fair to keep repeating that "Mr. Mayhem" is no longer with the company when that's not the case. From what he's said himself, he's still involved.


He's sold the company but still works for the new owners. It's easy to get misconceptions when one sells their company.




CaliLife17 said:


> Fair point. I will revise my statement to he no longer be the lead of the product. Between that change and not being able to find XTR white in stock anywhere around the world, it doesn't make sense for me to continue to use XTR at this time.


XTR has been an utter disappointment. Not sure if I've seen any gain but from it gunking up in the bottle to the issues involved in dealing with to the insane price, I won't be buying it ever again. I do plan to make what I have last as long as I can but seeing as that's about 5 liters I'm sure I'll be looking to switching in the future.


----------



## CaliLife17

Shawnb99 said:


> He's sold the company but still works for the new owners. It's easy to get misconceptions when one sells their company.
> ---------
> XTR has been an utter disappointment. Not sure if I've seen any gain but from it gunking up in the bottle to the issues involved in dealing with to the insane price, I won't be buying it ever again. I do plan to make what I have last as long as I can but seeing as that's about 5 liters I'm sure I'll be looking to switching in the future.


Ya, I do sadly agree that XTR really dropped the ball and did not live up to what I think a lot of us hoped it would. For me going forward, I will just stick with XT-1 clear for future. But hey lesson learned, and won't use XTR in the future.


----------



## Shawnb99

CaliLife17 said:


> Ya, I do sadly agree that XTR really dropped the ball and did not live up to what I think a lot of us hoped it would. For me going forward, I will just stick with XT-1 clear for future. But hey lesson learned, and won't use XTR in the future.


The fact I paid $44 a bottle for 5 liters is the only thing keeping me using it. Though next tear down, if there is one, I'll be going back to XT-1 as well.


----------



## Sir Beregond

I'm glad I opted not to get XTR. Honestly that pricing was atrocious for a product that hadn't proved itself in the market yet. So far happy with my XT-1, problem with my opened bottle of it gunking up aside.


----------



## spin5000

I'm new to non-AIO watercooling. I'm trying to figure out all the parts I need to get. Reliability & longevity are, by far, the most important factors for me in my watercooling build, let's say their importance is a 10/10. Performance not far behind at 8/10. Every thing else including looks, noise, "convenience", etc. is at a 0/10 or 1/10 - I don't care about that stuff. Seriously, if parts with the best reliability and longevity only came in the colour hot-pink for some reason, I'd still buy it.

- With all that in mind, I was advised to go with Tygon Norprene Industrial tubing: 3/8 x 5/8 Tygon A-60-G . I was also recommended to go with Mayhems coolant mix. Do I go with X1 Eco or XT-1 Nuke v2. Also, is X1 Eco as good as original X1 and same with XT-1 Nuke v2 VS original XT-1? If not, should I try and find some of the original formulations somewhere?

- On top of the X1 or XT-1, should I add Water Cooling Systems Inhibitor and/or Water Cooling Systems Hades / Hades Extreme?

- What about the cleaning kit, there's the normal VS the Pro kit. I read the normal kit is good for all materials but you need to watch out with the Pro kit, is that true?

- Are the cleaning kits overkill for a brand new, never before used watercooling system (no algea, no plasticizer wearing off, etc.) or should they also be used for a brand-new, never-used system?

If it matters, I'll most likely be using a Barrow pump / res / block combo - later moving to the EK pump / block / res combo when it comes out (Dec 22 - Feb 23) and if it offers any improvements over the Barrow - along with a HWLabs Nemisis GTR 360 and the 3/8 x 5/8 Tygon A-60-G tubing. I have no idea what materials all the connectors, fittings, etc. will be (whatever has the best reliability & longevity, I don't care about looks nor price).

P.S. I still have the original style Swiftech H320 AIO from around 8 or 9 years ago. I don't think I ever changed the fluid. I did add 1-2 drops of dish soap in it (as instructed by Swiftech) to make the water more surfactant to help get rid of some air bubbles. When I drained the entire unit a couple weeks ago, the water looked perfectly clear like water!!! No residues! No visible signs of biological growth! No flakes! Nothing! I called Swiftech and was told Mayhems was most likely the concentrate used in the unit. I couldn't believe how perfect the coolant looked (and seemed to perform) after being pretty-much neglected for 8-9 years!!!


----------



## vf-

Sir Beregond said:


> I'm glad I opted not to get XTR. Honestly that pricing was atrocious for a product that hadn't proved itself in the market yet. So far happy with my XT-1, problem with my opened bottle of it gunking up aside.


I'm really loving XT-1. I assume that is the same one we're using? XT-1 Nuke V2. On the bottle it says XT-1 Nuke but on the store it says XT-1 Nuke V2.

I took a little sample out of my loop today to see what the quality of the water was like in a white ceramic bowl as well as for any odours.

It's crystal clear in the bowl like a fresh bottle of distilled. Only smell is the inhibiters/biocide. Only a month in so far. Coolant was put in on June 15th. With Cryofuel I would start seeing a faint gold/copper tint. This was what always caught my eye when it was in the distro plate. Like a diluted beer colour.


----------



## Sir Beregond

vf- said:


> I'm really loving XT-1. I assume that is the same one we're using? XT-1 Nuke V2. On the bottle it says XT-1 Nuke but on the store it says XT-1 Nuke V2.
> 
> I took a little sample out of my loop today to see what the quality of the water was like in a white ceramic bowl as well as for any odours.
> 
> It's crystal clear in the bowl like a fresh bottle of distilled. Only smell is the inhibiters/biocide. Only a month in so far. Coolant was put in on June 15th. With Cryofuel I would start seeing a faint gold/copper tint. This was what always caught my eye when it was in the distro plate. Like a diluted beer colour.


Yep, bottle says XT-1 Nuke. Looks pristine in my system, I looked at it this past weekend, or maybe that was last weekend. I had about 100ml of it left in the opened bottle, and that gunked up sitting in my parts closet next to an unopened bottle of XT-1 Nuke that looks pristine as well, no gunk. So not sure, guess you can't store open bottles.

Found the PPCs link where I bought, does not say V2 for the clear as far as I can see.









Mayhems XT-1 Nuke Coolant Premix - 1L


Mayhems XT1 Nuke is a new formulation of Non Toxic Ethylene Glycol that can be used in pressurised environments up to 390°C and down to –50 °C / -58 °F. The formulation will last over twice as long as our existing XT1 and has much more resilient inhibitors. This makes it more suitable to small...




www.performance-pcs.com


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## dwolvin

Thirded for XT-1 (mine just says XT-1 UV Blue), it's run for years in multiple setups with zero issues. I don't blitz rads, just a little bit of vinegar and hot water, shake and thorough rinse. Leak check with plain distilled, drain and fill with 95% distilled and enough XT-1 to tint the fluid so I can see levels / leaks. About zero science, about zero problems (other than idiot stuff).


----------



## Avacado

dwolvin said:


> (other than idiot stuff).


We like that here.


----------



## M3TAl

Sir Beregond said:


> Yep, bottle says XT-1 Nuke. Looks pristine in my system, I looked at it this past weekend, or maybe that was last weekend. I had about 100ml of it left in the opened bottle, and that gunked up sitting in my parts closet next to an unopened bottle of XT-1 Nuke that looks pristine as well, no gunk. So not sure, guess you can't store open bottles.


I've had 1 big XT1 UV Blue bottle and smaller XT1 Clear open for year+. Maybe even 2 years. No issue with them. Don't know what happened with yours.


----------



## Sir Beregond

M3TAl said:


> I've had 1 big XT1 UV Blue bottle and smaller XT1 Clear open for year+. Maybe even 2 years. No issue with them. Don't know what happened with yours.


Hmm...really making me wonder then.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Hey @Mayhem or @Bridgekeeper - is Hades+ copper sulfate based? Came up in a thread, now I am curious.


----------



## Suteyaten

Sir Beregond said:


> Hey @Mayhem or @Bridgekeeper - is Hades+ copper sulfate based? Came up in a thread, now I am curious.


They claim on their website it's based on isothiazolone (antimicrobial organic compound). https://mayhems.store/may_b2c/mayhems-water-cooling-systems-hades-15ml.html

Here's some science on isothiazolone and isothiazolinone-based (compounds with similar structure to isothiazolone) biocides for those interested: Isothiazolinone Biocides: Chemistry, Biological, and Toxicity Profiles , https://onepetro.org/NACECORR/proceedings-abstract/CORR06/All-CORR06/NACE-06090/118097


----------



## HITTI

im using biocide and inhibitor, i blitzd the rads, then blitzd the entire system.

I'm using a ratio someone gave for biocide, inhibitor, and distilled water.

I drop a few drops of each once in a while.

last time i topped off the res n added b and i, i noticed a film line where the fluid evaporates a little after a while inside the res clear piece.

next time it evaporates a little i'll take a pic.

editthink i use to use x1 or something clear and distilled and never had a problem.


----------



## Bravo Six

What is the best way to source Mayhems biocide and inhibitor on the continent (Europe)? Ordering direct from the UK seems outrageously expensive with over £20 quoted for DHL (for a £16 purchase). I'll have to wait to be back in the UK if I can't find a cheaper source.


----------



## vf-

HITTI said:


> im using biocide and inhibitor,* i blitzd the rads, then blitzd the entire system.*
> 
> I'm using a ratio someone gave for biocide, inhibitor, and distilled water.
> 
> I drop a few drops of each once in a while.
> 
> last time i topped off the res n added b and i, i noticed a film line where the fluid evaporates a little after a while inside the res clear piece.
> 
> next time it evaporates a little i'll take a pic.
> 
> editthink i use to use x1 or something clear and distilled and never had a problem.


This was after a full tear down?


----------



## HITTI

vf- said:


> This was after a full tear down?


basically new kit added with an extra rad i had.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Hi all. Sorry been away a while. Im still working for the company but now only as advice and help ( i dont deal with any one other than direct with mayhems staff). All the staff have been trained up and doing a fine job. Daniel has been given acess to the main account on here and will be posting soon. 

Mick


----------



## dwolvin

Nice!


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Just an update to help ppl understand what happened with "XTR" its a complex one but ill be very brief in as far as I can in what happened. I may be asked to remove this but hopefully not.

XTR was in Dev for at least 2 years and the beta products were all made and all worked (well they did when we had finished). They were made small-scale on extremely complex systems.
After testing was all completed results were complied and extra testing was pursued. We tested on users (beta tester systems) external from us and with non-bias users and awaited results. Out of all the users, some had issues and we managed to resolve these.

We took all the data back to our manufacturers who then started to scale up (so we thought) !!!!!!

I invested approx £18,000 and had 2,000 Lts manufactured.

The cost was extremely high but I was willing to take the risk. 

After a few months, we started noticing something was not right and proceeded to try and work it all out but by this time we had shipped XTR out "thinking everything was ready to go". It started to go wrong and not as expected and as promised. I tried chasing up the manufacturer about the issues but to no avail. i tried my hardest and never got the answers I needed.

Jump to a few weeks back. The new owners of Mayhems finally got some info back from the manufacturer (we're talking more than 12 months down the line) who bulk made the product for us and who were the only people in the world who I could get to do what I had asked for. To my surprise, the new owners of Mayhems were told: "*while upscaling and manufacturing XTR" .... They lost the formula and decided to make something else and sold me what they had made........*" basically I was lied to and deceived and didn't know anything about it. I was only told this a few weeks back and trust me, I was extremely "P*ssed off". I had put years of work into something and god knows how many hours of work into it and once again was let down big time and not because of anything I had done. Without going further this cost me dearly in a lot of ways. 

However, i know no longer own mayhems and have to let it go as there is nothing I can do. But trust me when I say.... this industry seems to have a lot of companies who pull this poo off. You just have to live and learn and take it on the chin as an exercise in life and move on. 

Mick


----------



## cram501

Bridgekeeper said:


> To my surprise, the new owners of Mayhems were told: "*while upscaling and manufacturing XTR" .... They lost the formula and decided to make something else and sold me what they had made........*" basically I was lied to and deceived and didn't know anything about it. I was only told this a few weeks back and trust me, I was extremely "P*ssed off". I had put years of work into something and god knows how many hours of work into it and once again was let down big time and not because of anything I had done. Without going further this cost me dearly in a lot of ways.


Mick,

I've had XTR running for about a year in my loop. I don't have the Delta T that I had with the pastel (which ran great for about 5 years). I had to do some moving around so emptied my loop for a few months and replaced the pastel with XTR since that is what was available.

This indicates I should drain my loop and maybe replace the fluid with something else? (I still have a liter of XTR sitting in the closet.). I'll at least need to drain it and take a closer look.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Wow, sorry to hear about that Mick. Does Mayhems ever get periodic samples from your manufacturers to just test and see what they are putting out?

Have you had any other issues? I only ask since I had a recent purchase of XT-1 Nuke in clear gunk up on me. Granted the bottle was opened and there was only about 100ml left in it, but is that normal for that to gunk up? For context, was kept in a cool, dry closet next to a still sealed bottle of XT-1 Nuke clear that looked fine.


----------



## Shawnb99

Bridgekeeper said:


> Just an update to help ppl understand what happened with "XTR" its a complex one but ill be very brief in as far as I can in what happened. I may be asked to remove this but hopefully not.
> 
> XTR was in Dev for at least 2 years and the beta products were all made and all worked (well they did when we had finished). They were made small-scale on extremely complex systems.
> After testing was all completed results were complied and extra testing was pursued. We tested on users (beta tester systems) external from us and with non-bias users and awaited results. Out of all the users, some had issues and we managed to resolve these.
> 
> We took all the data back to our manufacturers who then started to scale up (so we thought) !!!!!!
> 
> I invested approx £18,000 and had 2,000 Lts manufactured.
> 
> The cost was extremely high but I was willing to take the risk.
> 
> After a few months, we started noticing something was not right and proceeded to try and work it all out but by this time we had shipped XTR out "thinking everything was ready to go". It started to go wrong and not as expected and as promised. I tried chasing up the manufacturer about the issues but to no avail. i tried my hardest and never got the answers I needed.
> 
> Jump to a few weeks back. The new owners of Mayhems finally got some info back from the manufacturer (we're talking more than 12 months down the line) who bulk made the product for us and who were the only people in the world who I could get to do what I had asked for. To my surprise, the new owners of Mayhems were told: "*while upscaling and manufacturing XTR" .... They lost the formula and decided to make something else and sold me what they had made........*" basically I was lied to and deceived and didn't know anything about it. I was only told this a few weeks back and trust me, I was extremely "P*ssed off". I had put years of work into something and god knows how many hours of work into it and once again was let down big time and not because of anything I had done. Without going further this cost me dearly in a lot of ways.
> 
> However, i know no longer own mayhems and have to let it go as there is nothing I can do. But trust me when I say.... this industry seems to have a lot of companies who pull this poo off. You just have to live and learn and take it on the chin as an exercise in life and move on.
> 
> Mick



Damn . That's extrmeley dissipointing. Guess I'll be draining and trying clean it all out of my system soon.

So what are so suggestions to clean this crap out of my system. As my loop is so massive and complex, it'll take me days to get access to take it all apart so some items will have fluid partially filled for days before I can access them, all will be air tight and plugged up but I still worry about it sitting idle.

As I don't nearly have enough Part 2 to clean everything, what else can I use to clean the residue left over from this XTR crap.

Also how do we safely dispose of this toxic crap?


----------



## dwolvin

I'f you are not having actual problems I'd think a drain, fill with distilled and Pt 2, flush a few hours, rinse w/ distilled, drain & refill with new coolant should be fine. (last rinse until it runs clear).


----------



## Shawnb99

dwolvin said:


> I'f you are not having actual problems I'd think a drain, fill with distilled and Pt 2, flush a few hours, rinse w/ distilled, drain & refill with new coolant should be fine. (last rinse until it runs clear).


Yeah I'll likely do that, take it apart in sections. I figure I'd need a few flushes. One of the pains of a badly designed, overly complex loop.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

XT1 i have never seen gunk up tbh. Xtr for cleaning id run blitz part 2 for 1 to 2 hours then give it a damed good rinse. P.s XTR isnt toxic so get rid of as you would any coolant for your local area.

As for sample form manufatuers yes we tested but between going small scale to mass production this ia when then screwed me over. The new owners of mayhems have learnt from my lessions and arw doing a good job but not rushing any thing. There also open to new idears and more and they have some of there own to inc new tubing.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Bridgekeeper said:


> XT1 i have never seen gunk up tbh. Xtr for cleaning id run blitz part 2 for 1 to 2 hours then give it a damed good rinse. P.s XTR isnt toxic so get rid of as you would any coolant for your local area.
> 
> As for sample form manufatuers yes we tested but between going small scale to mass production this ia when then screwed me over. The new owners of mayhems have learnt from my lessions and arw doing a good job but not rushing any thing. There also open to new idears and more and they have some of there own to inc new tubing.


Yeah was more wondering if that was expected behavior for an opened bottle that still had coolant in it. The sealed bottle still looks immaculate.


----------



## Shawnb99

Bridgekeeper said:


> XT1 i have never seen gunk up tbh. Xtr for cleaning id run blitz part 2 for 1 to 2 hours then give it a damed good rinse. P.s XTR isnt toxic so get rid of as you would any coolant for your local area.
> 
> As for sample form manufatuers yes we tested but between going small scale to mass production this ia when then screwed me over. The new owners of mayhems have learnt from my lessions and arw doing a good job but not rushing any thing. There also open to new idears and more and they have some of there own to inc new tubing.



Ah thanks. The environmental warning on the bottle gave me pause. I'll use it to "water" the neighbors rose bushes


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Yeh when i ran the compnay i would allways over-warn to cover our asses.


----------



## cram501

Bridgekeeper said:


> XT1 i have never seen gunk up tbh. Xtr for cleaning id run blitz part 2 for 1 to 2 hours then give it a damed good rinse. P.s XTR isnt toxic so get rid of as you would any coolant for your local area.


Does that mean we can dump XTR (drain for example) or do we need to still treat XTR as hazardous waste?


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Use local regulations for car coolant as your guide.


----------



## Section31

Bridgekeeper said:


> Use local regulations for car coolant as your guide.


Thanks for coming out with this. We appreciate the work in your products. Got to restock on mayhem xt-1 concentrate when clear restocks. Not only you wasted money but we sure wasted a lot of money on it.


----------



## M3TAl

What kind of company loses the "formula" then proceeds to continue forward with a "home brew" formula? Like... I don't know maybe ask for the original formula first? Or just cancel the order, reassess, and evaluate from their? 

Honestly that company should be taken to court. They lied not producing what was agreed upon and I assume it was under contract.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

M3TAl said:


> What kind of company loses the "formula" then proceeds to continue forward with a "home brew" formula? Like... I don't know maybe ask for the original formula first? Or just cancel the order, reassess, and evaluate from their?
> 
> Honestly that company should be taken to court. They lied not producing what was agreed upon and I assume it was under contract.


The problem is I've sold the company and the agreement was between me and them also because of the nature of the product and the unknowns at the time it was pretty much a development product. As said live and learn.


----------



## Section31

Bridgekeeper said:


> The problem is I've sold the company and the agreement was between me and them also because of the nature of the product and the unknowns at the time it was pretty much a development product. As said live and learn.


Hope whatever replaces xtr 4nm is much more worthy successor. For what its worth, it seems to be pretty good performer from my experience.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Honestly I am still just very skeptical of opaque fluids being good longterm use fluids in general still. I opted for XT-1 Nuke in clear. I guess I dodged a bullet not going with XTR in white and instead getting XT-1 clear and white colored acrylic tubing.


----------



## M3TAl

XT-1 is good stuff. Been using it maybe 4 years now.


----------



## ezveedub

OK, anyone running into issues with Mayhems X1 and color going dark? I mean total turning brown on new sealed concentrate bottles. This happened 2 years ago with the "old" bottle formulas, now the current version has done the same thing. Sitting on 5 bottles of bad coolant now and not getting anywhere with retailer......looks like I'm moving off Mayhems for now it seems, as can't wait almost 3 weeks with no resolve and money wasted now it seems.


----------



## dwolvin

That sounds like they were stored in sunlight / heat...


----------



## ezveedub

dwolvin said:


> That sounds like they were stored in sunlight / heat...


Nope. All my coolant is in boxes in AC in a closet. I have been using Mayhems since 2015 and the issue popped up in 2020 with UV Yellow /Green in 3 loops I had running and new coolant in bottles at the same time and now again in 2022. Two bottles of concentrate were purchased in February and other three in ended of 2020. All five bottles of UV green concentrate have turned dark mud color right out the sealed bottle, yet the premix I have is still close to the UV green color. Mick knew about the issue in 2020 and it seems it popped up again with current new bottle batches.

What the new premix should look like...








Versus what new concentrate in the same room looks like right out of sealed bottles....








You can see the old coolant drain is lighter in color in the 5L jug versus new concentrate. 









And you check Amazon, there reviews saying the same thing from 2-3 months ago as well. Retailer said Mayhems has still not replied back to them and it's past two weeks going on three. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Xt1 or x1 only changes colour in direct sunlight or stored over 25c esp concentrate. Who did you get them from?

Uv green is ph sensative and once the colour change starts you cannot stop it. 

Mayhems are looking into this as the issue seems to be happening in usa.


----------



## ezveedub

Bridgekeeper said:


> Xt1 or x1 only changes colour in direct sunlight or stored over 25c esp concentrate. Who did you get them from?
> 
> Uv green is ph sensative and once the colour change starts you cannot stop it.
> 
> Mayhems are looking into this as the issue seems to be happening in usa.


My older X1 UV/Green went orangish in my daughters PC 2-3 years ago and she has sunlight in that room often. But this UV green has been OK since in 4 pc loops I run. Had premix in one liter, 5 liter & concentrate and only the later purchased concentrate has gone to a dark color right out the bottles and I have used this new bottle version since the last issue in 2020. All these coolants are purchased from Performance PCs in FL. If concentrate has issues being stored at temps above 25C, then there's going to be issues in FL for sure, lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Bridgekeeper

Mayhems have no contoll how users or stores store there coolant. Dont forget coolants is pritty much a active product. This goes for all coolants.


----------



## dwolvin

Might be getting stored in heat during shipping, doesn't even have to be end user...


----------



## Sir Beregond

Bridgekeeper said:


> Xt1 or x1 only changes colour in direct sunlight or stored over 25c esp concentrate. Who did you get them from?
> 
> Uv green is ph sensative and once the colour change starts you cannot stop it.
> 
> Mayhems are looking into this as the issue seems to be happening in usa.


After you sold Mayhems, did they change a bunch of suppliers? I know ModMyMods had a brief stint of bad additive packs for their Mod Water for a bit during that transition after you sold. And I know Mod Water is based on XT-1. Just an example.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Nah they didnt but prices have risen 10 fold and its harder getting hold of certain items in the uk. not sure what happend to mod my mods as im out the loop on that now how ever i know they should be kept right as mayhems still has the same ethos if not better.


----------



## Mayhem

Ladies and Gentlemen,

I suspect it's probably time for me to post something on here as it is now approximately 10 months since we bought Mayhems off of Michael. What to say though? Let me start by saying that I realise I'm now the new boy here, and many of you have been building relationships with both Michael and each other for over 18000 comments across over 900 pages of discussion at this point! That said, I hope I can help take this forwards and continue what Michael started here so many years ago, and with a little luck, you'll get to know me as you've gotten to know him and you'll stick with us and give me your honest feedback on our ideas and plans for the future as and when we go public with them.

A little about me (so you can have at least a bit of an idea about me having never met or interacted with me before) Our original company is www.liquidgaming.co.uk which we founded over 8 years ago now, in running LG we found we didn't especially like how several of the other big players operate within the industry and set about trying to do things a little differently. Instead of being a faceless company we wanted to build relationships with people. To that end, even though Michael always said he would get the products shipped to us whenever we placed an order with Mayhems, Freddy (my brother - founder and co-owner of Liquid Gaming) would jump in his van and drive up the country to collect the order in person. This resulted in a friendship and partnership ultimately growing between Mayhems and Liquid Gaming, which in turn grew into us running the Mayhems B2C site, and eventually last year, buying Mayhems outright. Since then I've been working tirelessly behind the scenes to learn all that I need to know to do everything from running Mayhems day-to-day operations, to development of new products, increasing the amount and level of QC, to name but a few things. To put it simply... It has been tough... but more on that later.

I believe in complete, open honesty and transparency, a position which more often than not lands me in some suspiciously hot water, but at least have a clear conscience at the end of it! To that end, I know it's safe to say that Mayhems wasn't where either Michael or I thought it was when we bought the company. I don't want to say too much as it's up to Michael what he shares with you guys, but it's safe to say that during the last year of Michael running the business, he wasn't getting the support, effort and commitment that he needed from his family and those around him, and standards suffered as a result, in short, it had all gotten too much. As a result a good amount the stock we inherited when we bought the company either needed a great deal of work to correct, or was beyond saving and needed to be binned. I subscribe to the Gordon Ramsay mentality that "you don't let your mistakes leave the kitchen" and also that I'm not happy sending anything out of the door that I wouldn't be confident putting in my own system. It's for that reason that I made the call to dispose of thousands of bottles of coolant at great financial cost to the company (including our entire XTR stock), but in my opinion it was the right thing to do (much as it pained me and Michael - sorry again Michael for the stress and tears I caused you at that time 😅).

I think (touch wood), after 10 months of 12 hour days and working weekends we're just about finally getting to a place where the majority of the issues are either solved, or being solved (I say that but there's always at least one new fire that we discover every day that needs to be urgently extinguished). We're getting there and I hope I can count on you guys to support us as we keep trying to build Mayhems and improve on all the work Michael has put in since starting Mayhems in 2009.

That's all I've got this evening ladies and gents, any questions let me know and I'll do my best, and thank you again for your continued and loyal support of the brand.

Dan.


----------



## Mayhem

Sir Beregond said:


> After you sold Mayhems, did they change a bunch of suppliers? I know ModMyMods had a brief stint of bad additive packs for their Mod Water for a bit during that transition after you sold. And I know Mod Water is based on XT-1. Just an example.


I worked with [email protected] directly to solve this issue. The problem actually arose from a shipment they received in mid 2021 which was before we bought Mayhems which made it difficult to find the source of the issue, but we worked together and as we couldn't work out what had happened, we split the cost of getting it all sorted.

With regards to our suppliers, we haven't changed any suppliers since taking over Mayhems, but Michael is correct, the cost for some of the ingredients has gone up almost 100% which is less than ideal.


----------



## Mayhem

ezveedub said:


> My older X1 UV/Green went orangish in my daughters PC 2-3 years ago and she has sunlight in that room often. But this UV green has been OK since in 4 pc loops I run. Had premix in one liter, 5 liter & concentrate and only the later purchased concentrate has gone to a dark color right out the bottles and I have used this new bottle version since the last issue in 2020. All these coolants are purchased from Performance PCs in FL. If concentrate has issues being stored at temps above 25C, then there's going to be issues in FL for sure, lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Ezveedub, please accept my apologies for this as the delay you are experiencing is entirely my fault. PPC have contacted me about your issue and I haven't been able to sort the issue yet (we've had some really big fires to put out this month). The issue with the green concentrate is one which I thought we had rectified (and we may well have done with the new stock that I made a couple of months ago) but until that stock starts feeding through our resellers we won't know for sure. My advice would be to use XT-1 Nuke instead of X1 as it will offer greater stability in the FL climate. The green dye is a particularly difficult one to work with as such we have only seen this issue with the UV Green and the UV Yellow Green (no other colours) and specifically in the X1 range - primarily in the concentrate form. I will keep working to find solutions to increase stability of this but it will be a long process.


----------



## dwolvin

Welcome Dan! 
Gland to hear progress is being made, I eagerly await the future.

Also- don't forget to change your sig (dormant  )


----------



## Mayhem

Bridgekeeper said:


> Just an update to help ppl understand what happened with "XTR" its a complex one but ill be very brief in as far as I can in what happened. I may be asked to remove this but hopefully not.
> 
> XTR was in Dev for at least 2 years and the beta products were all made and all worked (well they did when we had finished). They were made small-scale on extremely complex systems.
> After testing was all completed results were complied and extra testing was pursued. We tested on users (beta tester systems) external from us and with non-bias users and awaited results. Out of all the users, some had issues and we managed to resolve these.
> 
> We took all the data back to our manufacturers who then started to scale up (so we thought) !!!!!!
> 
> I invested approx £18,000 and had 2,000 Lts manufactured.
> 
> The cost was extremely high but I was willing to take the risk.
> 
> After a few months, we started noticing something was not right and proceeded to try and work it all out but by this time we had shipped XTR out "thinking everything was ready to go". It started to go wrong and not as expected and as promised. I tried chasing up the manufacturer about the issues but to no avail. i tried my hardest and never got the answers I needed.
> 
> Jump to a few weeks back. The new owners of Mayhems finally got some info back from the manufacturer (we're talking more than 12 months down the line) who bulk made the product for us and who were the only people in the world who I could get to do what I had asked for. To my surprise, the new owners of Mayhems were told: "*while upscaling and manufacturing XTR" .... They lost the formula and decided to make something else and sold me what they had made........*" basically I was lied to and deceived and didn't know anything about it. I was only told this a few weeks back and trust me, I was extremely "P*ssed off". I had put years of work into something and god knows how many hours of work into it and once again was let down big time and not because of anything I had done. Without going further this cost me dearly in a lot of ways.
> 
> However, i know no longer own mayhems and have to let it go as there is nothing I can do. But trust me when I say.... this industry seems to have a lot of companies who pull this poo off. You just have to live and learn and take it on the chin as an exercise in life and move on.
> 
> Mick


To clarify on this, I will never tell Bridgekeeper what he can and can't post owing to 1. My respect for him, and 2. My firm belief in the principle of free speech (yes I am very jealous of your first amendment and I only wish we had one of those over here). That said I may from time to time need to correct him when he says something wrong! 😆 What we were told happened with the XTR was that manufacturer had sensors to detect the presence of things which shouldn't be there during the manufacturing process, but they unfortunately didn't have any mechanism to detect if one of the aforementioned sensors had failed. As a result the 2000L were manufactured with an undetected faulty sensor and as such even they couldn't tell us what we ultimately received! And in that respect it wasn't the formula that we ordered... The bit about Bridgekeeper being extremely annoyed is most definitely true, I can attest to that...


----------



## Mayhem

dwolvin said:


> Welcome Dan!
> Gland to hear progress is being made, I eagerly await the future.
> 
> Also- don't forget to change your sig (dormant  )


I would love to, but I am very new to this platform and have no idea how to do anything! 😆


----------



## Sir Beregond

Mayhem said:


> I worked with [email protected] directly to solve this issue. The problem actually arose from a shipment they received in mid 2021 which was before we bought Mayhems which made it difficult to find the source of the issue, but we worked together and as we couldn't work out what had happened, we split the cost of getting it all sorted.
> 
> With regards to our suppliers, we haven't changed any suppliers since taking over Mayhems, but Michael is correct, the cost for some of the ingredients has gone up almost 100% which is less than ideal.


Welcome to the forum Dan! Look forward to continued posts.

Yeah MMM provided great support and replaced the bottles I bought that were faulty. Thanks for the context around the issue.


----------



## acoustic

Awesome to see your presence here! Best of luck, and glad things have smoothed out since the transfer of power.


----------



## ezveedub

Mayhem said:


> Ezveedub, please accept my apologies for this as the delay you are experiencing is entirely my fault. PPC have contacted me about your issue and I haven't been able to sort the issue yet (we've had some really big fires to put out this month). The issue with the green concentrate is one which I thought we had rectified (and we may well have done with the new stock that I made a couple of months ago) but until that stock starts feeding through our resellers we won't know for sure. My advice would be to use XT-1 Nuke instead of X1 as it will offer greater stability in the FL climate. The green dye is a particularly difficult one to work with as such we have only seen this issue with the UV Green and the UV Yellow Green (no other colours) and specifically in the X1 range - primarily in the concentrate form. I will keep working to find solutions to increase stability of this but it will be a long process.


Hi Dan, thanks for the response on the X1 coolant. I mainly use X1 instead of XT-1 since it's soft tubing loops. Is there any feedback to PPCS on the coolant I purchased, as I still need to get coolant from them. Last time they issued me credit, but they haven't this time since they haven't gotten word back from Mayhems as per Lucas M in their RMA dept. As for storage of the coolant by the way, I pick up coolant directly from them here in FL at their location, so I'm sure they're inventory of concentrate must be having the same issue as well since there is no exposure to heat from shipping and handling when I get it from them and drive home in AC.


----------



## d0mmie

Hey there.

I bought some X1 Eco clear coolant from Watercool a few months ago and I just noticed there aren't any production dates printed on the bottles. Is this normal? What's the expected shelf life for this coolant?


----------



## dwolvin

I just disposed of some concentrate that I found in the back of my watercooling drawer (almost empty) and it looked fine. I'd say store it in a cool dark place and it should keep for a long time (my bottle was 6 years old).


----------



## vf-

dwolvin said:


> I just disposed of some concentrate that I found in the back of my watercooling drawer (almost empty) and it looked fine. I'd say store it in a cool dark place and it should keep for a long time (my bottle was 6 years old).


Do you have a basement? I assume American's basements are cool since they have no windows?


----------



## dwolvin

They are, but I'm in California and they are fairly rare here. My drawer is just a spare drawer in the bathroom.


----------



## Sir Beregond

vf- said:


> Do you have a basement? I assume American's basements are cool since they have no windows?


You can have windows in an American basement.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> What we were told happened with the XTR was that manufacturer had sensors to detect the presence of things which shouldn't be there during the manufacturing process, but they unfortunately didn't have any mechanism to detect if one of the aforementioned sensors had failed. As a result the 2000L were manufactured with an undetected faulty sensor and as such even they couldn't tell us what we ultimately received! And in that respect it wasn't the formula that we ordered...


So what does this mean for those of us running XTR in our systems? Is it still safe to use or should we be draining it as soon as we can?


----------



## d0mmie

dwolvin said:


> I just disposed of some concentrate that I found in the back of my watercooling drawer (almost empty) and it looked fine. I'd say store it in a cool dark place and it should keep for a long time (my bottle was 6 years old).


That's what I do. I have a basement where there's about 17C degrees, with no sun light coming in.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know I still have a couple Pre-mix bottles of my Light Gray Pastel sitting at my desk that I haven't used yet (almost 4yrs old now) - might try to use for a photo op and test to see if it's still good (was kept in a cool area out of direct sunlight at my desk)


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Well now Dan has jumped on here "YAY" just need him to get the rest of social media under his wing hahahaha. This is ware I lay my hat and carry on with my mid life crisis  (GT86 turbo'd on a track, jumping out of air craft and learning to drive artic lorries). You will rarely hear or see from now on as the reins have been handed over (hopefully with out my so called bad attitude, which i never felt it was, i was just passionate and some ppl do not like that esp youtubers and crappy reviewer who aint got a clue what they are talking about, P.s not all just the odd few who have an ego bigger than there brains), Thank you for the god and the bad time its been fun ........

Thank you to all water coolers and hobbyist new, old and future. I leave you with this little music video...... Good bye !!!!!!!!


----------



## Sir Beregond

Bridgekeeper said:


> Well now Dan has jumped on here "YAY" just need him to get the rest of social media under his wing hahahaha. This is ware I lay my hat and carry on with my mid life crisis  (GT86 turbo'd on a track, jumping out of air craft and learning to drive artic lorries). You will rarely hear or see from now on as the reins have been handed over (hopefully with out my so called bad attitude, which i never felt it was, i was just passionate and some ppl do not like that esp youtubers and crappy reviewer who aint got a clue what they are talking about, P.s not all just the odd few who have an ego bigger than there brains), Thank you for the god and the bad time its been fun ........
> 
> Thank you to all water coolers and hobbyist new, old and future. I leave you with this little music video...... Good bye !!!!!!!!


Maybe that's a mid-life crisis, others might say that is enjoying life and the fruits of your labors. Thanks for all you have done for the watercooling market! Have fun, Mick!


----------



## CaliLife17

Hi all, Going to drain my loop running XTR and swap parts / sell parts. I am not going to keep using XTR since no longer in stock anywhere now or anytime soon. 

What is the proper way to dispose of XTR? I know with the X1 Eco you can just flush down the drain. I can't really find best/proper way to dispose of XTR. Anyone know? Don't want to put it down the drain and then find out its like toxic or bad for the house pipes. 

Thanks!


----------



## ciarlatano

CaliLife17 said:


> Hi all, Going to drain my loop running XTR and swap parts / sell parts. I am not going to keep using XTR since no longer in stock anywhere now or anytime soon.
> 
> What is the proper way to dispose of XTR? I know with the X1 Eco you can just flush down the drain. I can't really find best/proper way to dispose of XTR. Anyone know? Don't want to put it down the drain and then find out its like toxic or bad for the house pipes.
> 
> Thanks!


Just a few posts back Mayhems said to treat it the same way you would vehicle antifreeze, and to follow local regulations for that.


----------



## HITTI

is there an expiration date for part 1 and part 2?

also, i moved in the winter and blitz 1 and 2 were in the moving truck at freezing temps, think its still good or buy the set again?

buying it is no biggie but if its still good, thats good.


----------



## HITTI

HITTI said:


> is there an expiration date for part 1 and part 2?
> 
> also, i moved in the winter and blitz 1 and 2 were in the moving truck at freezing temps, think its still good or buy the set again?
> 
> buying it is no biggie but if its still good, thats good.


this is why I am asking cuz I used biocide inhibitor n distilled.

and see.

I'm thinking about going back to X1.


----------



## RiffageGalore

Mayhem said:


> PMMA is currently under testing. We have several parts and are running testing on this as i speak (its been going on for a few months)
> XT-1 imho is the best coolant we make
> Biocide +, inhibtor+ and Biocide extreme (IS) are the best additives on the market bar non and have been made spcialcy made for liquid-cooled PCS.


I know this was a while ago but I have to ask -- have you ever heard of issues with the Mayhems additives combined with EPDM tubing and copper radiators?

I _exclusively_ use distilled water and your hades+ and inhibitor+ drops. I use it because its the best as you say, and reduces issues with coolant. However, recently I added EPDM tubing to my loop (I used Mayhems clear usually) for a MO-RA3 that I introduced to my loop and got some pretty bad yellowing water that leaves an oily film and yellow/golden small sediment. I thought this was due to the MO-RA not being cleaned at the factory as they say they are, but then I performed a side-test.

I used an aquarium pump and a large glass jar, distilled water and Mayhems drops, and just flushed water through the EPDM tubes and back into the jar. After a couple of days, NOTHING changes, so I decided to add in another variable to replicate the original problem -- a copper radiator from alphacool that I have used in the past. Very soon after adding this to the existing aquarium pump testing setup, the water started to turn yellow in the jar. So this occurred only after adding in the copper.

Im currently running the same thing but without any Mayhems additives--just distilled water. I will let you know what the results are when finished, but wanted to ask and see if you've ever heard of Mayhems fortified distilled water turning yellow when mixed with EPDM and copper radiators. 

This is actually driving me pretty nuts, and I refuse to reconnect my MO-RA3 to my loop (I have since cleaned everything thoroughly and had to strip my entire loop down and clean all blocks and pumps, was coated with the yellow/golden film from the water) until I figure out what the cause is. I suspect it HAS to do something with the EPDM I have and copper. I used your additives in my copper radiators for long periods of time, but never with EPDM.


----------



## dwolvin

That's weird- is it McMaster-Carr's tube or EK? I'm no chemist but neither copper nor EPMD should be able to produce any oily residue.


----------



## RiffageGalore

dwolvin said:


> That's weird- is it McMaster-Carr's tube or EK? I'm no chemist but neither copper nor EPMD should be able to produce any oily residue.


It's Watercool EPDM actually.

It seems like it must be related to these variables - Mayhems additives, Copper inside a MO-RA3 (or alphacool), Watercool EPDM. I only rinsed the MO-RA3 with water, not hot water or vinegar. After the contamination, I definitely gave it a vinegar soak and flushed at the sink with an aquarium pump. Vinegar came out blue. 

But now reading through this thread, I'm seeing all kinds of conflicting information about how much of the hades+ and inhibitor+ should be used. Directions say 0.5ml per L, which is 10 drops or so. But now I see Mayhem posting 1 drop per L, and someone else saying only do 3-4 drops. So I don't know if the presence of these chemicals contributed to the problem or not. I contacted watercool and they said their MO-RA3s come pretty clean from the factory, only a rinse would be necessary at most. When I rinsed with just distilled, nothing came out at first. 

I have a new order of Watercool EPDM on the way, as the original 24ft of the stuff I had before is too dirty/contaminated. Qtip swabs on the inside come out brown after the whole ordeal. I got everything else crystal clear clean and now have the MORA running as a standalone loop. I'm cautiously going to run the new EPDM in a separate loop with an aquarium pump, with Mayhems drops and distilled, a small alphacool 120mm radiator, and some clear tubing of the same sort i have in my main rig. If there's no change to the color of the distilled water after a couple of days, I will use it on the MORA and connect it to my loop again.

If at that point my water turns yellow and filmy, I will be quitting watercooling forever. And I will never let my children or their descendants pursue it either, or they'll be cut out from my will and wont inherit the $500 treasury bond I own and plan to leave to my next of kin. lol.

Here's a link to the original ordeal that has me doing all these nutty tests:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/wli7fz


----------



## RiffageGalore

Can someone provide a straight answer on the correct ratio of distilled water to additive drops, for Maynems Hades+ and Inhibitor+? Says 0.5ml per L, which is about 10 drops. So I've been doing 10 drops of each for every L of distilled water I use.


----------



## dwolvin

RiffageGalore said:


> It's Watercool EPDM actually.
> 
> It seems like it must be related to these variables - Mayhems additives, Copper inside a MO-RA3 (or alphacool), Watercool EPDM. I only rinsed the MO-RA3 with water, not hot water or vinegar. After the contamination, I definitely gave it a vinegar soak and flushed at the sink with an aquarium pump. Vinegar came out blue.
> 
> But now reading through this thread, I'm seeing all kinds of conflicting information about how much of the hades+ and inhibitor+ should be used. Directions say 0.5ml per L, which is 10 drops or so. But now I see Mayhem posting 1 drop per L, and someone else saying only do 3-4 drops. So I don't know if the presence of these chemicals contributed to the problem or not. I contacted watercool and they said their MO-RA3s come pretty clean from the factory, only a rinse would be necessary at most. When I rinsed with just distilled, nothing came out at first.
> 
> I have a new order of Watercool EPDM on the way, as the original 24ft of the stuff I had before is too dirty/contaminated. Qtip swabs on the inside come out brown after the whole ordeal. I got everything else crystal clear clean and now have the MORA running as a standalone loop. I'm cautiously going to run the new EPDM in a separate loop with an aquarium pump, with Mayhems drops and distilled, a small alphacool 120mm radiator, and some clear tubing of the same sort i have in my main rig. If there's no change to the color of the distilled water after a couple of days, I will use it on the MORA and connect it to my loop again.
> 
> If at that point my water turns yellow and filmy, I will be quitting watercooling forever. And I will never let my children or their descendants pursue it either, or they'll be cut out from my will and wont inherit the $500 treasury bond I own and plan to leave to my next of kin. lol.
> 
> Here's a link to the original ordeal that has me doing all these nutty tests:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/wli7fz


Huh- seeing the pic on your reddit I agree it's flux colored if nothing else. The whole point of EPMD is that it's non-reactive (but sometimes comes dirty).



RiffageGalore said:


> Can someone provide a straight answer on the correct ratio of distilled water to additive drops, for Maynems Hades+ and Inhibitor+? Says 0.5ml per L, which is about 10 drops. So I've been doing 10 drops of each for every L of distilled water I use.


I can't give an exact answer, but there is more room for error than people think. 10 drops sounds good to me, if your PC isn't getting direct light on clear tube/res. If it's as exposed as mine is (P3 in direct line of from a window) you might want a couple extra drops. If you flushed it well when putting it together / leak testing, just keep an eye on it for a week or two. If you see anything in the water, put in a few more drops.


----------



## Bravo Six

This kind of stories kind of make me think that coolants or even just additives create a host of problems in general. I personally have been running pure distilled (no additives) in my current build for a couple of month now without adverse effects. I guess there is the possibility of corrosion if there is aluminum in your loop (not in mine), or biological growth, but I have personally never seen the latter.


----------



## RiffageGalore

dwolvin said:


> Huh- seeing the pic on your reddit I agree it's flux colored if nothing else. The whole point of EPMD is that it's non-reactive (but sometimes comes dirty).


Color, yes. Watercool told me they do use flux but only a very small amount. For kicks, I took some actual rosin flux and swirled it around in some hot water in a mason jar. It didn't really turn into what my loop turned into....



> I can't give an exact answer, but there is more room for error than people think. 10 drops sounds good to me, if your PC isn't getting direct light on clear tube/res. If it's as exposed as mine is (P3 in direct line of from a window) you might want a couple extra drops. If you flushed it well when putting it together / leak testing, just keep an eye on it for a week or two. If you see anything in the water, put in a few more drops.


Mine isn't near anything like that and 10 drops has worked in the past just fine. I do however wonder if the inhibitor drops are prone to loosening anything inside radiators -- seems to be what it hints at on the Mayhems website but it only references this for a radiator that is "dirty", but there's a lot of interpretation there. Even copper oxide could be considered something that makes a radiator "dirty" when I believe its just a natural reaction to air.


----------



## RiffageGalore

Bravo Six said:


> This kind of stories kind of make me think that coolants or even just additives create a host of problems in general. I personally have been running pure distilled (no additives) in my current build for a couple of month now without adverse effects. I guess there is the possibility of corrosion if there is aluminum in your loop (not in mine), or biological growth, but I have personally never seen the latter.


Well I agree, which is why Ive never used pre-mixed coolants and only these additive drops by Mayhems with distilled water. I would run straight distilled and I have for months with no visible issues, but I don't want to push my luck so I use the Mayhem's additives. I haven't found anything else that's as simple/basic of a concoction as distilled plus these drops.


----------



## Bravo Six

RiffageGalore said:


> Well I agree, which is why Ive never used pre-mixed coolants and only these additive drops by Mayhems with distilled water. I would run straight distilled and I have for months with no visible issues, but I don't want to push my luck so I use the Mayhem's additives. I haven't found anything else that's as simple/basic of a concoction as distilled plus these drops.


I usually drain and refill, whether I use distilled only or a coolant every 6 months or so, at which point I also dust off the inside of the case. Very quick with a drain valve. So I guess for people who plan to leave the coolant unchanged for years there may be concerns, but realistically watercooling is an enthusiast's hobby and it is very likely anyway that one will take the loop apart to swap out the GPU or CPU.


----------



## RiffageGalore

Bravo Six said:


> I usually drain and refill, whether I use distilled only or a coolant every 6 months or so, at which point I also dust off the inside of the case. Very quick with a drain valve. So I guess for people who plan to leave the coolant unchanged for years there may be concerns, but realistically watercooling is an enthusiast's hobby and it is very likely anyway that one will take the loop apart to swap out the GPU or CPU.


Ha, even with the intention of leaving my coolant in for a year I end up having to drain and refill every 4-6 months due to a tinkering/mod or something. In the next few weeks, I am to be done with all that for this rig and just be on cruise control for 12 months.


----------



## dwolvin

Heh, let us know how that works out...

But I hear you, I hope that I'm done after putting a 3080 in my machine. But the new AMDs are about to hit...


----------



## RiffageGalore

dwolvin said:


> Heh, let us know how that works out...
> 
> But I hear you, I hope that I'm done after putting a 3080 in my machine. But the new AMDs are about to hit...


Did you get 12GB or 10GB version?

Yeah, I'm so tempted to upgrade now that GPU prices have dropped. It's just the psychology of seeing prices drop so dramatically though, I have a 2080 ti so I don't really need anything in the 30xx series.

I'm strongly considering the 40xx series as an upgrade, along with 13th gen intel since I'm on a 10900k. Figured I'd skip 12th, even though it appears to be an actually upgrade-worthy generation.

Standing pat with my 10900k and 2080 Ti for at least a year! Gonna try, anyway lol.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, if I wasn't coming from a 10xx I would have held off, but EVGA + waterblock for MSRP was too much. And even then I debated for a while...


----------



## RiffageGalore

dwolvin said:


> Yeah, if I wasn't coming from a 10xx I would have held off, but EVGA + waterblock for MSRP was too much. And even then I debated for a while...


Well those 12GB 3080s seem to perform better than the 3080 Ti, so you should be good for a darn good while. I heard to 40xx series is getting nerfed power limits now...those original leaks saying 450w to 600w power draw and 2500mhz speeds are now back down to 30xx levels of like 350w. Which also means clock speeds will be lower than originally leaked as well.


----------



## Chuckclc

RiffageGalore said:


> Well those 12GB 3080s seem to perform better than the 3080 Ti, so you should be good for a darn good while. I heard to 40xx series is getting nerfed power limits now...those original leaks saying 450w to 600w power draw and 2500mhz speeds are now back down to 30xx levels of like 350w. Which also means clock speeds will be lower than originally leaked as well.


My RTX 3080 XC3 Hybrid 12GB isnt as good as the 10GB EVGA FTW 3080 10gb I had almost 2 years ago. Accept for temps. But it does OC very well.


----------



## RiffageGalore

Chuckclc said:


> My RTX 3080 XC3 Hybrid 12GB isnt as good as the 10GB EVGA FTW 3080 10gb I had almost 2 years ago. Accept for temps. But it does OC very well.


Interesting....I'm just going by benchmarks Ive seen on the Tom's GPU hierarchy. Seems factory overclocked 12GB 3080 equal the 3080 Ti in 1440p gaming I believe, but of course that depends on some other factors.


----------



## dwolvin

There is also the difference between XC3 and FTW- FTW has one of the highest factory overclocks and is one of EVGA's better cards of whatever level it's at.


----------



## HITTI

HITTI said:


> this is why I am asking cuz I used biocide inhibitor n distilled.
> 
> and see.
> 
> I'm thinking about going back to X1.
> 
> View attachment 2569514


I didn't know it was so long last time I changed my fluid it's been a year, that's why there's scum. 🤦‍♂️.


----------



## RiffageGalore

HITTI said:


> I didn't know it was so long last time I changed my fluid it's been a year, that's why there's scum. 🤦‍♂️.


I had the same thing in my res using distilled and inhibitor/hades but it was only about 4 or 5 months into it. When I cleaned my res I just wiped it out, but it smeared/smudged on the glass tube of the res, leaving a residue that was hard to see unless in good lighting. Put it back together and saw the smudging was enhanced by the res LED.


----------



## Blackops_2

Dan, Is pastel going to make a comeback?


----------



## HITTI

RiffageGalore said:


> I had the same thing in my res using distilled and inhibitor/hades but it was only about 4 or 5 months into it. When I cleaned my res I just wiped it out, but it smeared/smudged on the glass tube of the res, leaving a residue that was hard to see unless in good lighting. Put it back together and saw the smudging was enhanced by the res LED.


yeah the last time it happened with the inhibitors and biocide I had to take every connector off and scrub it with vinegar.

new tubing.

mayhem splits complete cleaning system.

I remember my fluid of the original X1 lasted a year because I went to jail for 5 months and etc and the pc just sat but it was fine nothing wrong so I'm going back to the blitz cleaning complete system and X1 Eco I hope it's as same as the original X1.


----------



## RiffageGalore

HITTI said:


> yeah the last time it happened with the inhibitors and biocide I had to take every connector off and scrub it with vinegar.
> 
> new tubing.
> 
> mayhem splits complete cleaning system.
> 
> I remember my fluid of the original X1 lasted a year because I went to jail for 5 months and etc and the pc just sat but it was fine nothing wrong so I'm going back to the blitz cleaning complete system and X1 Eco I hope it's as same as the original X1.


I can't figure it out. I just tore my whole system down and cleaned every last thing...ran vinegar through my MO-RA3 and blitz in my system. Refilled with distilled and the Mayhems additives and the smudgy film near the waterlines in my reservoirs are back in action. Not sure what it is because I cleaned this thing super well before refilling. It looks like it is a residue, but no clue what it is or why it happens. 

Everyone I ask defaults to the "did you clean your rads" response. Yes....yes I cleaned my rads.


----------



## dwolvin

Weird. Try distilled only next time you clean- no problem sunning for a few days like the IMHO. If it comes back then you know it's coming from a seal/fitting/o-ring...


----------



## Section31

CaliLife17 said:


> Hi all, Going to drain my loop running XTR and swap parts / sell parts. I am not going to keep using XTR since no longer in stock anywhere now or anytime soon.
> 
> What is the proper way to dispose of XTR? I know with the X1 Eco you can just flush down the drain. I can't really find best/proper way to dispose of XTR. Anyone know? Don't want to put it down the drain and then find out its like toxic or bad for the house pipes.
> 
> Thanks!


I have six bottles that need to be disposed of myself.


----------



## Section31

Anyone word on what existing owners of mayhem xtr 4nm in there system should do.


----------



## dwolvin

I'd guess if it's not separating, ignore it until you want to clean or change fluid.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> I'd guess if it's not separating, ignore it until you want to clean or change fluid.


I actually did start the process but it lead to lot more work. As usual, ocd comes into effect and i go start cleaning and doing minor changes lol. It was clunking at some part of my loop. 

Also makes me want to get 4080 so i can get rid of optimus block and not have to clean the coldplate every time .


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> I actually did start the process but it lead to lot more work. As usual, ocd comes into effect and i go start cleaning and doing minor changes lol. It was clunking at some part of my loop.
> 
> Also makes me want to get 4080 so i can get rid of optimus block and not have to clean the coldplate every time .
> 
> View attachment 2571201


What the hell happened to your coldplate? Looks like an Optimus?


----------



## Bridgekeeper

wow, looks like sand paper decided to play on your CP.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> What the hell happened to your coldplate? Looks like an Optimus?


Ongoing issue with some component (mo-ra3 maybe) corrosion and sending copper throughout portion of the loop. Optimus just easily picks up the stuff that's all.


----------



## Section31

Bridgekeeper said:


> wow, looks like sand paper decided to play on your CP.


Cleaning out the mayhem XTr 4nm was fun. Even for an system like mine where complete draining isn't difficult. Unfortunate 600Cad plus investment into it gone down the drain.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Ongoing issue with some component (mo-ra3 maybe) corrosion and sending copper throughout portion of the loop. Optimus just easily picks up the stuff that's all.


Oh...strange. Only been using mine since May, but so far still looks pristine.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Oh...strange. Only been using mine since May, but so far still looks pristine.


I want to replace the mo-ra3 but nothing suitable yet out to replace it. I figured just let it get dirty, clean when can and replace it as things come out.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Looks like something else is playing hell with your system tbh. Wish I could help work it out but alas I no longer can do that. I hope you get it sorted.


----------



## RiffageGalore

Section31 said:


> Ongoing issue with some component (mo-ra3 maybe) corrosion and sending copper throughout portion of the loop. Optimus just easily picks up the stuff that's all.


What makes you think the mo-ra3 is responsible?


----------



## HITTI

x1 vs x1 eco?


----------



## Bridgekeeper

XT-1 is probably the best product Mayhems makes. yet it is also the least known about imho.


----------



## Section31

RiffageGalore said:


> What makes you think the mo-ra3 is responsible?


Its the last component from the old rig. Everything else has been replaced. Whatever happened to cause it is also unknown. Watercool makes good quality stuff. So all can do is schedule it for replacement next upgrade round.


----------



## Section31

Bridgekeeper said:


> XT-1 is probably the best product Mayhems makes. yet it is also the least known about imho.


Hope they make clear again. Getting rid of mayhem xtr 4nm is a pain. I still have some stuck somewhere in my mo-ra3 lol. That thing pain to clean


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Hope they make clear again. Getting rid of mayhem xtr 4nm is a pain. I still have some stuck somewhere in my mo-ra3 lol. That thing pain to clean


What do you mean you hope they make it again? You can buy it right now (depending on where you buy from), and I am using clear XT-1 right now. They make it lol.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> What do you mean you hope they make it again? You can buy it right now (depending on where you buy from), and I am using clear XT-1 right now. They make it lol.


Im waiting for us side to restock. Haven’t checked though in 2months. Mayhem UK shipping is not worth it.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Im waiting for us side to restock. Haven’t checked though in 2months. Mayhem UK shipping is not worth it.


Well does look to be out of stock again, I'll grant, but I don't know why you've kept insinuating they don't make it anymore. I bought some from PPCs in May.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Well does look to be out of stock again, I'll grant, but I don't know why you've kept insinuating they don't make it anymore. I bought some from PPCs in May.


I guess i wasn't paying enough attention lately. Whenever i go looking for it, its out of stock so wrong assumption made.


----------



## Mayhem

Shawnb99 said:


> So what does this mean for those of us running XTR in our systems? Is it still safe to use or should we be draining it as soon as we can?


We don't fully know is the most honest answer I can give. Some customers running XTR have experienced problems with conglomeration in their rigs. All customers who have got in touch with me to report an issue have been offered free replacement fluid from either the X1 or XT1 ranges in the colour of their choice (enough to fill their rig), and a complimentary Blitz Kit to assist in the cleaning process. If you're asking me, I'd say to be on the safe side you would be best off draining your system, cleaning thoroughly and replacing the coolant, as there doesn't seem to be any pattern to when/if conglomeration occurs, and the unpredictability is an issue for me - hence why I destroyed all of the stock we had here and discontinued the product. If I can't safely guarantee it, I'm not sending it out to you guys.


----------



## Mayhem

DarthBaggins said:


> I know I still have a couple Pre-mix bottles of my Light Gray Pastel sitting at my desk that I haven't used yet (almost 4yrs old now) - might try to use for a photo op and test to see if it's still good (was kept in a cool area out of direct sunlight at my desk)


I wish you the best of luck... Let me know how it turns out... 😆


----------



## acoustic

Any new products in the pipe-line that you might be willing to give us a early peek into?


----------



## Mayhem

HITTI said:


> is there an expiration date for part 1 and part 2?
> 
> also, i moved in the winter and blitz 1 and 2 were in the moving truck at freezing temps, think its still good or buy the set again?
> 
> buying it is no biggie but if its still good, thats good.


Part 1 and Part 2 will be fine after exposure to sub zero temps.
Inhibitor + should also be fine.
Biocide + performance will be damaged/destroyed by exposure to sub zero temps due to being an 'active' ingredient.


----------



## Mayhem

RiffageGalore said:


> It's Watercool EPDM actually.
> 
> It seems like it must be related to these variables - Mayhems additives, Copper inside a MO-RA3 (or alphacool), Watercool EPDM. I only rinsed the MO-RA3 with water, not hot water or vinegar. After the contamination, I definitely gave it a vinegar soak and flushed at the sink with an aquarium pump. Vinegar came out blue.
> 
> But now reading through this thread, I'm seeing all kinds of conflicting information about how much of the hades+ and inhibitor+ should be used. Directions say 0.5ml per L, which is 10 drops or so. But now I see Mayhem posting 1 drop per L, and someone else saying only do 3-4 drops. So I don't know if the presence of these chemicals contributed to the problem or not. I contacted watercool and they said their MO-RA3s come pretty clean from the factory, only a rinse would be necessary at most. When I rinsed with just distilled, nothing came out at first.
> 
> I have a new order of Watercool EPDM on the way, as the original 24ft of the stuff I had before is too dirty/contaminated. Qtip swabs on the inside come out brown after the whole ordeal. I got everything else crystal clear clean and now have the MORA running as a standalone loop. I'm cautiously going to run the new EPDM in a separate loop with an aquarium pump, with Mayhems drops and distilled, a small alphacool 120mm radiator, and some clear tubing of the same sort i have in my main rig. If there's no change to the color of the distilled water after a couple of days, I will use it on the MORA and connect it to my loop again.
> 
> If at that point my water turns yellow and filmy, I will be quitting watercooling forever. And I will never let my children or their descendants pursue it either, or they'll be cut out from my will and wont inherit the $500 treasury bond I own and plan to leave to my next of kin. lol.
> 
> Here's a link to the original ordeal that has me doing all these nutty tests:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/wli7fz


I'll be honest (as per) there are too many variables here for me to give a definitive answer. What I will say is, the fact that the Mayhems additives have worked perfectly with clear tubing etc (until the addition of the EPDM tubing) would suggest to me that the cause lies with the EPDM rubber tubing (possible some leaching out of the rubber).

More importantly I have to say I feel a deep sadness and loss for the watercooling community and your children that they will never get to experience the overwhelming frustration arising from unforeseen consequences at the end of an otherwise perfect build! 😆


----------



## Hequaqua

@Mayhem 

I had some of the XTR that was bad....I finally emptied my loop and purchased something else. How would I go about getting that replaced? 

Yes, It congealed in the fins on my CPU block, as well in the bottom of the bottle.


----------



## Mayhem

Blackops_2 said:


> Dan, Is pastel going to make a comeback?


Hi bud, we are hoping to have a working product to replace Pastel at some point in 2023. A breakdown in the original supply chain resulted in the king of opaque coolants (Pastel) to meet his untimely end. We are working hard testing and refining to find a replacement, but we're taking our time so that once we send it out to you all I can guarantee that it's a product I'd be 100% confident putting in my own rig.


----------



## Mayhem

Section31 said:


> Anyone word on what existing owners of mayhem xtr 4nm in there system should do.


As I've said on a couple of other posts, I've been offering anyone who has had problems with XTR free replacement fluid (colour of their choice) from either the XT1 or X1 ranges and a Blitz Kit to assist with the cleaning of their rig. The issues with XTR were set in motion long before we purchased Mayhems so there was nothing we could do to stop this from becoming an issue, but in spite of that if we can help clean up the mess then we believe that's the right thing to do.

The best way to reach me is through the contact page on the Mayhems website. Hope to hear from you soon.
Dan.


----------



## Mayhem

Hequaqua said:


> @Mayhem
> 
> I had some of the XTR that was bad....I finally emptied my loop and purchased something else. How would I go about getting that replaced?
> 
> Yes, It congealed in the fins on my CPU block, as well in the bottom of the bottle.


Get in touch via the Contact page on the Mayhems website. I won't be able to replace it with XTR as I've destroyed the stock and discontinued the product, but I can provide replacement coolant for your rig from either the X1 or XT1 ranges (colour of your choice)


----------



## Mayhem

HITTI said:


> x1 vs x1 eco?


These are the same product. Someone probably just forgot to put the 'Eco' bit on their website...


----------



## Mayhem

Section31 said:


> Hope they make clear again. Getting rid of mayhem xtr 4nm is a pain. I still have some stuck somewhere in my mo-ra3 lol. That thing pain to clean


This is me right now, I promise, we still make XT1 Clear (in both Premix and Concentrate form), in fact, I have a production run of it scheduled in tomorrow!😆


----------



## HITTI

Mayhem said:


> Part 1 and Part 2 will be fine after exposure to sub zero temps.
> Inhibitor + should also be fine.
> Biocide + performance will be damaged/destroyed by exposure to sub zero temps due to being an 'active' ingredient.


that is awesome to know. thank you! now i have to see how much is left of part 1 & 2.

inhibitor and biocide was in the car with me when the move happened in 15degree temps "suv was warm".

time to get to it.


----------



## HITTI

HITTI said:


> that is awesome to know. thank you! now i have to see how much is left of part 1 & 2.
> 
> inhibitor and biocide was in the car with me when the move happened in 15degree temps "suv was warm".
> 
> time to get to it.


Yup part1and2 are nearly full, I only used it once. 🤘


----------



## Mayhem

acoustic said:


> Any new products in the pipe-line that you might be willing to give us a early peek into?


When it's ready, stay tuned brother...


----------



## Mayhem

Section31 said:


> Im waiting for us side to restock. Haven’t checked though in 2months. Mayhem UK shipping is not worth it.


11 boxes of XT1 Nuke Clear 1L Premix are landing with Performance PCs in the next week. I'm sure they'll have their stock updated and them listed not long after the end of next week bud!


----------



## Section31

Mayhem said:


> When it's ready, stay tuned brother...


That will be good. I am looking at concentrate products myself. No more premix stuff. Up to Mayhem XTR 4nm, i only bought Mayhem concentrate solution as its more economical.


----------



## KillerBee33

I honestly liked Pt2, did very well in my loop twice already. I still have most of that bottle since my Res. is tiny 70ml. Is there an expiration on it? I didn't read into it much other than making sure I mix it right.


----------



## technotic

Bridgekeeper said:


> XT1 i have never seen gunk up tbh. Xtr for cleaning id run blitz part 2 for 1 to 2 hours then give it a damed good rinse. P.s XTR isnt toxic so get rid of as you would any coolant for your local area. As for sample form manufatuers yes we tested but between going small scale to mass production this ia when then screwed me over. The new owners of mayhems have learnt from my lessions and arw doing a good job but not rushing any thing. There also open to new idears and more and they have some of there own to inc new tubing.


 Wow... Sorry to hear that. I ran a couple different coolants during a few months period while I was still building then upgrading then upgrading again on my loop. I had used 2 different pastels and ekwb toxicjizz or whatever that one is they designed for enhancing RGB. Mystic fog. There we go. Anyway, I ended up settling on XTR White, it's been in my loop for over a year now and not a single issue. But I was looking to buy more and got curious why it was so out of stock everywhere and then I saw the reddit post linking to this post. I really loved mayhems coolant, as a new comer. Not sure what to go for now. Maybe mystic jizz again. But this is just a sad disheartening post all the way around  best of luck to you in the future... Hope karma comes back around to you in a good way.


----------



## technotic

Mayhem said:


> 11 boxes of XT1 Nuke Clear 1L Premix are landing with Performance PCs in the next week. I'm sure they'll have their stock updated and them listed not long after the end of next week bud!


I suppose its going to take a bit of blitz 2 to get all the nano white out if I planned to run clear, eh? I've ordered from PPCs a few times (also titan rig) so I guess I will go with that. FYI PPC still has the Green XTR listed for sale, and frozencpu has pink and green for sale. I would have been clueless if not for trying to find more xtr to buy and accidentally finding a reddit post linking to this thread. Might be good to have stores pull it or keep it listed as out of stock and update the description. Otherwise there's a lot of people who might never know. I'll update you with more links of active sales if I can find them.

Can I suggest that you update the mayhems store page so searching for XTR on the official store gives a search result explaining about XTR and why it's not manufactured anymore and why to not keep looking? Right now a search simply comes back with No Results Found

Edit: here's links to the store pages for you:
FrozenCPUs XTR Nano Pink
FrozenCPUs XTR Nano Green
Performance PCs XTR Nano Green


----------



## ezveedub

Well, after 2 months of waiting to see what would happen with the new X1 coolant that had the color shift dark new out of the bottle like the batches in 2020, I've decided to move on from Mayhems to a different brand. Not going to support any company that won't replace the bad product fully and I take a loss over again. Being this issue has happened before and not some one off makes the issue worse for me and losing the supply I had for maintenance for rigs and being offered only small partial replacement is not worth my time anymore between Mayhems and the retailer I had to constantly contact for updates. With that said, hopefully you guys have no issues with your rigs/coolant and good luck.


----------



## obotNapalm

HITTI said:


> x1 vs x1 eco?





Mayhem said:


> These are the same product. Someone probably just forgot to put the 'Eco' bit on their website...


It might be the same question I have - I was looking purchasing the 5L of clear premix vs individual 1L's but noticed the 5L is listed as just "X1", the 1L as "X1 V2 ECO".

Is there anything listing the major differences and incompatibilities? The "X1" is listed as -15C freezing point vs -8C for the "X1 V2 ECO".


----------



## RiffageGalore

Mayhem said:


> I'll be honest (as per) there are too many variables here for me to give a definitive answer. What I will say is, the fact that the Mayhems additives have worked perfectly with clear tubing etc (until the addition of the EPDM tubing) would suggest to me that the cause lies with the EPDM rubber tubing (possible some leaching out of the rubber).
> 
> More importantly I have to say I feel a deep sadness and loss for the watercooling community and your children that they will never get to experience the overwhelming frustration arising from unforeseen consequences at the end of an otherwise perfect build! 😆


I appreciate the response. I went ahead and conducted many separate tests with spare rads, clear tubing, EPDM tubing, Mayhem's additives, and an aquarium pump with a bucket. I ran a bunch of them, subsequently changing the combination by removing one of the variables each time to see if there's a difference. Pretty much inconclusive, but I still need to run a couple final ones.

I will say that when I ran the test without using Mayhem's additives, the clear tubing still began to yellow after only several hours, albeit not as much as when I ran the test with the additives. I used two types of tubing in the tests (1 of them was Mayhem's UltraClear). This leads to me believe the additives are not the basic cause.

Before each test, I was letting the alphacool radiators I used air dry and had a fan blowing across the ports. I noticed that it seems like the coloring problem would be worse if I used a radiator that had been sitting out to dry longer than the others. I know copper reacts with air and will oxidize over time, so I wonder if this might be the culprit.

I have seen on the Mayhem's website that if you use the inhibitor with a radiator that isn't clean, the inhibitor can release whatever it is in the radiators and cause the water to get dirty. Is this something you can elaborate on without "giving away" the secret sauce of your inhibitor product? Since this is a disclaimer put out by Mayhems, can you provide any further information on why it happens, or what type of "dirty" are we talking about? Would oxidation be considered "dirty" here?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Mayhem said:


> I wish you the best of luck... Let me know how it turns out... 😆


I will give it a try, but again not for a long duration due to it's age etc lol
Also reminds me I still have a Mayhems 240mm Rad in storage too, just needs some color added (primed version).


----------



## pompss

@maybemick @Mayhem 
i was able to find some aurora booster bottles. in order to recreate the aurora coolant effect its possible to mix it with mayhems pastel ? 
Also do you think i can mix it with the xrt nano fluid ? i still have a bottle


----------



## ciarlatano

pompss said:


> @maybemick @Mayhem
> i was able to find some aurora booster bottles. in order to recreate the aurora coolant effect its possible to mix it with mayhems pastel ?
> Also do you think i can mix it with the xrt nano fluid ? i still have a bottle


Mick has already answered this question a number of times (despite the fact that I find it hard to believe a number of people have asked it after reading Aurora's product info....which you read, of course). It's a big no on all counts.


----------



## pompss

I got some discoloration with x1 green uv that turned yellow after 4 weeks. Not sure what the problem is but the loop was cleaned with part2 and flush it extensively before adding the new x1 coolant.
I think the problem are those brass tubing i have . brass tube , nickel for the waterblock and cooper in the radiator from hwlabs. Can this 3 metal when mix cause any issues?


----------



## Bridgekeeper

*as ciarlatano has stated no! it's not a good idea. If you have any aroura left bin it. (this is old mick )*


----------



## Zfast4y0u

well this sucks, i loved mayhem products, however you guys are never in stock, and i aint ordering from UK... you might wanna restock caseking once in a while.. just sayin!

one question, will there be ''clear'' concentrate in offer without UV in it?? just anti rust and anti algae.


----------



## d0mmie

Zfast4y0u said:


> well this sucks, i loved mayhem products, however you guys are never in stock, and i aint ordering from UK... you might wanna restock caseking once in a while.. just sayin!
> 
> one question, will there be ''clear'' concentrate in offer without UV in it?? just anti rust and anti algae.


Watercool seems to have good stock of X1 and Blitz.





__





Fluids


Fluids: Filling bottle 1000ml - Mayhems Blitz Complete Radiator and System Cleaning Kit - Mayhems X1 Clear 1 Ltr Premixed V2 - Mayhems X1 UV Green 1 Ltr Pre




shop.watercool.de


----------



## Bilco

So I am going to be doing a flush with the blitz part 2 here soon. If all my loop currently has in it is distilled water and a few drops of pt nuke is it still necessary to do an initial flush/refill of brand new distilled water or can I just add the appropriate amount of blitz pt 2 to it?


----------



## ciarlatano

Bilco said:


> So I am going to be doing a flush with the blitz part 2 here soon. If all my loop currently has in it is distilled water and a few drops of pt nuke is it still necessary to do an initial flush/refill of brand new distilled water or can I just add the appropriate amount of blitz pt 2 to it?


I wouldn't add Blitz to existing coolant/water, especially not with the PT Nuke in there. Use fresh distilled with the Blitz.


----------



## Hawkjoss

I've had Mayhems XTR for almost 2 years in the system now. I plan to do loop maintenance in the next few days and I will report my findings here ( from outside the loop looks pristine, temps/performance didn't change since use of XTR )


----------



## Shawnb99

Hawkjoss said:


> I've had Mayhems XTR for almost 2 years in the system now. I plan to do loop maintenance in the next few days and I will report my findings here ( from outside the loop looks pristine, temps/performance didn't change since use of XTR )



Just don’t let it sit idle for very long or it’ll gunk up
The tubes are what I pushed out of my fittings


----------



## Hawkjoss

Shawnb99 said:


> Just don’t let it sit idle for very long or it’ll gunk up
> The tubes are what I pushed out of my fittings
> View attachment 2583385


 - that is crazy!
I didn't turn on the PC for a few months during the summer but used it quite a lot recently.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Shawnb99 said:


> Just don’t let it sit idle for very long or it’ll gunk up
> The tubes are what I pushed out of my fittings
> View attachment 2583385


I'm so glad I dodged a bullet with this stuff and just went with my gut and bought clear XT-1. 

That said, sorry for your misfortune.


----------



## Shawnb99

Hawkjoss said:


> - that is crazy!
> I didn't turn on the PC for a few months during the summer but used it quite a lot recently.


It sat idle for least a year. I set up a drain line off a T fitting between two radiators so that section saw no flow. Now that I think about it, was stupid on my part and I assume would likely happen with any fluid.



Sir Beregond said:


> I'm so glad I dodged a bullet with this stuff and just went with my gut and bought clear XT-1.
> 
> That said, sorry for your misfortune.


$44 a bottle bullet. **** still can't get over that price.


----------



## Hawkjoss

As i will need t choose another liquid rather then XTR ( I have 1 bottle still sitting in the closet ), I wonder if X1 Eco is a solid choice. Any recent experience?


----------



## Sir Beregond

Hawkjoss said:


> As i will need t choose another liquid rather then XTR ( I have 1 bottle still sitting in the closet ), I wonder if X1 Eco is a solid choice. Any recent experience?


Good coolant. Used it in my last rig, albeit, I used it a little too long before draining and the inhibitors/biocides had been used up by that point, but we're talking like 18 months of use (longer than I intended). I'd say replace it every 12, though your conditions might be different than mine were.


----------



## ciarlatano

Hawkjoss said:


> As i will need t choose another liquid rather then XTR ( I have 1 bottle still sitting in the closet ), I wonder if X1 Eco is a solid choice. Any recent experience?


I've been using X1 ECO since it was released. First fill was ~14 months of use and stayed crystal clear. About 4 months into my current fill and it's also perfect.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Shawnb99 said:


> Just don’t let it sit idle for very long or it’ll gunk up
> The tubes are what I pushed out of my fittings
> View attachment 2583385



YIKES, LEL!!!!!


----------



## Shawnb99

More XTR nastiness


----------



## Lolek74

I'm one of the lucky ones. Had XTR Green for over a year in my system. No issues. PC was used 2-3 times a week for a light gaming. Since there is no stock available for the next maintenance I'm planning to add GPU to the loop and will be using another coolant. It is a shame it did such a good job.


----------



## DeXel

I have been using XTR since sometime in summer. So far no issues that I can detect visually (flow and temps are within norm), but I'll be switching to X1 in the new build once V3000+ start to ship out.

However, now that I think of it, when I poured XTR initially there was some gunk in it (like less than 5% of the bottle), so I expect to find some nightmare when draining this in a few weeks. At the time, I just though those were settled particles similar to Pastel, but I guess not.

Hopefully, Mayhems gets production back for opaque coolants (Pastel or XTR) as I really like them both for looks and low maintenance (until this fiasco). I had never had any issues with Pastel in 5 years I've used it (thanks to Blitz?). I did not notice the temperature benefits of XTR that were advertised over Pastel, and I guess this issue might be one of the reasons.

I still have an unused bottle of XTR, so I guess I'll be reaching out for that X1 replacement.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

DeXel said:


> I have been using XTR since sometime in summer. So far no issues that I can detect visually (flow and temps are within norm), but I'll be switching to X1 in the new build once V3000+ start to ship out.
> 
> However, now that I think of it, when I poured XTR initially there was some gunk in it (like less than 5% of the bottle), so I expect to find some nightmare when draining this in a few weeks. At the time, I just though those were settled particles similar to Pastel, but I guess not.
> 
> Hopefully, Mayhems gets production back for opaque coolants (Pastel or XTR) as I really like them both for looks and low maintenance (until this fiasco). I had never had any issues with Pastel in 5 years I've used it (thanks to Blitz?). I did not notice the temperature benefits of XTR that were advertised over Pastel, and I guess this issue might be one of the reasons.
> 
> I still have an unused bottle of XTR, so I guess I'll be reaching out for that X1 replacement.


Mayhems is working on a "new" Opaque / Pastel (Tm) product but testing is going to take a long time, they are trying to cover any and all eventualities and this takes a lot of work and a lot of time (testing a product to be perfect is not a 5 min job). They "could" re-produce old Mayhems Pastel as in the original but the cost is mental and not worth it. The base product needed is more than 100x the cost it used to be making reproduction nearly impossible right now.


----------



## vf-

What is that white stuff that looks like what dentists use except dry round cotton wool shapes of sort. It looks almost spongy parts that formed inside his tubing? I assume this was in soft tubing? Or it is hard tibing?

I assume it had quite an odour?


----------



## Hawkjoss

So I drained the loop in the morning today (I had XTR there for almost 1.5? years now ) - well, it is nasty. All tubing is covered in some white film, with many purple stains(XTR color) visible on the blocks and fittings. I filled the loop with Blitz p2 while away from PC and will be disassembling/cleaning everything in the evening (I will do some photos to post here. 

I will take this as an opportunity to throw one more 360 radiator, D5 FLT 120, High flow next into the build to see if it sticks ;-)


----------



## dwolvin

Nice! I am lazy and try to keep everything relatively sterile so I can then ignore it for a year or two, but I feel it's about time to do a teardown and inspect soon.


----------



## Hawkjoss

First “discoveries” after came back from work: 
When i filled the system with blitz 2, i set the pump to 100% and the flow meter was showing around 4.7lpm; when i got back home it was 0.8 lpm - white film accumulated in cpu/gpu block which reduced the flowrate. Tearing everything apart but fitting does not look good:


----------



## dwolvin

Oof. I guess pop everything apart and manually clean...


----------



## Hawkjoss

Update - Cleaning up XTR was not fun at all. Took me 2 days to clean everything properly. Blocks:

























Distroplate was not even worth cleaning, acryl turned cloudy and even toothpaste/brush didn’t help.

So distro is gone, new d5, 360 st30 rad and high flow next added and here are the results:


----------



## RichKnecht

Hawkjoss said:


> Update - Cleaning up XTR was not fun at all. Took me 2 days to clean everything properly. Blocks:
> View attachment 2589259
> 
> View attachment 2589254
> 
> View attachment 2589255
> 
> 
> Distroplate was not even worth cleaning, acryl turned cloudy and even toothpaste/brush didn’t help.
> 
> So distro is gone, new d5, 360 st30 rad and high flow next added and here are the results:
> View attachment 2589256
> 
> View attachment 2589257


Is that a rad on the side too? I‘m surprised you fit a push/pull 360 on the bottom.


----------



## Hawkjoss

RichKnecht said:


> Is that a rad on the side too? I‘m surprised you fit a push/pull 360 on the bottom.


Yup, another rad on the side (alphacool ST360 x-flow). 
i am thinking to swap arctic push pull to phanteks t30s in push pull - there’s plenty of space








PS: added a gasket on too of the fans to create better seal between fans and rear case cover preventing air recirculation.


----------



## RiffageGalore

Hey folks -- any idea what this could be? I am using Mayhems Hades+ and Inhibitor+, and distilled water from the supermarket. Here is a post with all the info:

Yesterday I cleaned my system - 12 hours of Blitz Pt 2, flushed thoroughly after (also used another pump to push about 1 gallon of distilled through to flush). Put in a nice NEW glass tube, and wiped that thing clean with a soft microfiber cloth so that I couldn't see any smudges or prints at all even in the most revealing lighting.

So I fill er up, and a few hours later I'm getting this film on the sides of the glass near the top of the water level.

Here it is under white RGB

This has happened before, pretty much every time I do a cleaning, and its pissing me off.

I only used distilled water and Mayhems Hades+ and inhibitor+.

What is this? Its frustrating that it happens only a few hours after cleaning and filling my loop. Other info: 


Components of loop (internal):
- Corsair radiators (XR5, 420 and 360)
-Heatkiller Tube 100, Watercool D5 pump
-Heatkiller D5 Pump top, Watercool D5 pump
-Heatkiller IV PRO CPU block, acetal clean
-Aquacomputer HighFlow LT sensor
-Heatkiller V 3080 FTW3 GPU block
-Heatkiller EPDM tubing, some Mayhem's Ultraclear tubing
-Barrow and Alphacool nickel-plated brass fittings

Components of external loop:
-MO-RA3 420
-Dual D5 Pump module
-Tube 150
-2x D5 Vario from Watercool
-EPDM tubing
-Barrow fittings


----------



## acoustic

Flush the loop a few more times; fill to full, drain, re-fill a few times. I have a somewhat similar thing happen when I use the Keurig Descaler in my loop for cleaning. I'll get a foam/film at the top of the reservoir, and it'll take 3-4 full flushes before I get it "clean" again. I just keep filling, draining, filling, over and over until it's all gone.


----------



## RiffageGalore

acoustic said:


> Flush the loop a few more times; fill to full, drain, re-fill a few times. I have a somewhat similar thing happen when I use the Keurig Descaler in my loop for cleaning. I'll get a foam/film at the top of the reservoir, and it'll take 3-4 full flushes before I get it "clean" again. I just keep filling, draining, filling, over and over until it's all gone.


Ok, my rig is tough to fully drain, to flush it I got a bucket, a strong aquarium pump, a couple gallons of distilled, and just pumped water all the way through the loop and out the other end. There may have been a couple spots that didn't get hit, because I can't bleed it while I'm trying to pump water from the bucket through it. I will need to drain it to clean that damn glass again, which also means I have to take the top of the case off (with the rad partially attached), so I will try to fill, bleed, flush a few times before anything sticks to the glass again? Or should I do the multiple flushes now/first, and then clean that glass....


----------



## acoustic

RiffageGalore said:


> Ok, my rig is tough to fully drain, to flush it I got a bucket, a strong aquarium pump, a couple gallons of distilled, and just pumped water all the way through the loop and out the other end. There may have been a couple spots that didn't get hit, because I can't bleed it while I'm trying to pump water from the bucket through it. I will need to drain it to clean that damn glass again, which also means I have to take the top of the case off (with the rad partially attached), so I will try to fill, bleed, flush a few times before anything sticks to the glass again? Or should I do the multiple flushes now/first, and then clean that glass....


Maybe try wiping the glass now and pushing it into the fluid so it leaves when you drain? Sounds like a complex loop and a PITA to drain  I’m sorry


----------



## RiffageGalore

acoustic said:


> Maybe try wiping the glass now and pushing it into the fluid so it leaves when you drain? Sounds like a complex loop and a PITA to drain  I’m sorry


Yeah I have to open up the res to wipe the glass, so might as well just clean it off with a cloth. It doesn't dissolve back into the fluid, I think it collects in the reservoir so its actually now in the best place it could be.

I ordered some DP Ultra so I will be cleaning, flushing, checking for any of this crap and if I'm in the clear I will fill it with the DP Ultra clear coolant.


----------



## RiffageGalore

Hawkjoss said:


> Yup, another rad on the side (alphacool ST360 x-flow).
> i am thinking to swap arctic push pull to phanteks t30s in push pull - there’s plenty of space
> View attachment 2589264
> 
> PS: added a gasket on too of the fans to create better seal between fans and rear case cover preventing air recirculation.


While T30s are prob the best fans out there, they aren't that much more effective than those P14s. Not sure you will really see a noticeable difference in your coolant temps by switching. Unless something else about the P14s is bothering you (noise at certain RPM), then I'd stick with them. Best bang for your buck out there.


----------



## Hawkjoss

RiffageGalore said:


> While T30s are prob the best fans out there, they aren't that much more effective than those P14s. Not sure you will really see a noticeable difference in your coolant temps by switching. Unless something else about the P14s is bothering you (noise at certain RPM), then I'd stick with them. Best bang for your buck out there.


Yup, the whining noise at 1k rpm is my primary concern.
I’ve set up the fans curve based on water T, and the sweetspot of 5c delta falls exactly at 980-1020 rpms.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

RiffageGalore said:


> Hey folks -- any idea what this could be? I am using Mayhems Hades+ and Inhibitor+, and distilled water from the supermarket. Here is a post with all the info:
> 
> Yesterday I cleaned my system - 12 hours of Blitz Pt 2, flushed thoroughly after (also used another pump to push about 1 gallon of distilled through to flush). Put in a nice NEW glass tube, and wiped that thing clean with a soft microfiber cloth so that I couldn't see any smudges or prints at all even in the most revealing lighting.
> 
> So I fill er up, and a few hours later I'm getting this film on the sides of the glass near the top of the water level.
> 
> Here it is under white RGB
> 
> This has happened before, pretty much every time I do a cleaning, and its pissing me off.
> 
> I only used distilled water and Mayhems Hades+ and inhibitor+.
> 
> What is this? Its frustrating that it happens only a few hours after cleaning and filling my loop. Other info:
> 
> 
> Components of loop (internal):
> - Corsair radiators (XR5, 420 and 360)
> -Heatkiller Tube 100, Watercool D5 pump
> -Heatkiller D5 Pump top, Watercool D5 pump
> -Heatkiller IV PRO CPU block, acetal clean
> -Aquacomputer HighFlow LT sensor
> -Heatkiller V 3080 FTW3 GPU block
> -Heatkiller EPDM tubing, some Mayhem's Ultraclear tubing
> -Barrow and Alphacool nickel-plated brass fittings
> 
> Components of external loop:
> -MO-RA3 420
> -Dual D5 Pump module
> -Tube 150
> -2x D5 Vario from Watercool
> -EPDM tubing
> -Barrow fittings


The Corsair radiators are made by Hardware labs and are naturally "dirty unclean" rads on delviery from new if i stood for a long time. This does not mean they are bad rads just need a "real" deep clean before useage. Part 2 is not good enough you need to part 1 the rads.

EPDM tubing has a white powder residue that needs cleaning off internally and soak cleaning before use as well with warm water.


----------



## ciarlatano

Bridgekeeper said:


> The Corsair radiators are made by Hardware labs and are naturally "dirty unclean" rads on delviery from new if i stood for a long time. This does not mean they are bad rads just need a "real" deep clean before useage. Part 2 is not good enough you need to part 1 the rads.
> 
> EPDM tubing has a white powder residue that needs cleaning off internally and soak cleaning before use as well with warm water.


I really prefer to say "HWL's basic series rad with a little sailboat sticker on it atnd marking it up to twice the price of the HWL branded" rather than "made by HWL". Simply saying they are made by HWL leaves out a big part of that and almost makes Corsair look like they are doing something right.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

gladly I'm not under any "mick keep your mouth shut!" Dilemmas anymore so yes I can agree .... ROTFLMAO, But i will still try and be polite .... Emphasis on being polite (it's not easy!!!! I can tell you that for sure). Being a contractor who is there to support and help someone allows me the cutesy of also saying what I like when I like with some respect.


> p.s HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!!


----------



## Sir Beregond

Bridgekeeper said:


> gladly I'm not under any "mick keep your mouth shut!" Dilemmas anymore so yes I can agree .... ROTFLMAO, But i will still try and be polite .... Emphasis on being polite (it's not easy!!!! I can tell you that for sure). Being a contractor who is there to support and help someone allows me the cutesy of also saying what I like when I like with some respect.


So who did Corsair ditch X1 for in their new XL8 stuff?


----------



## Artjsalina5

Bridgekeeper said:


> gladly I'm not under any "mick keep your mouth shut!" Dilemmas anymore so yes I can agree .... ROTFLMAO, But i will still try and be polite .... Emphasis on being polite (it's not easy!!!! I can tell you that for sure). Being a contractor who is there to support and help someone allows me the cutesy of also saying what I like when I like with some respect.


Did 10 drops of hades+ and 10 drops of inhibitor per liter in a gallon of distilled water, which came out to 38 drops of each. This sound right to you?


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Sir Beregond said:


> So who did Corsair ditch X1 for in their new XL8 stuff?


I would suspect costs. Shipping such heavy items is expensive and they probably wanted to reduce costs and make more money for them selfs.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

Artjsalina5 said:


> Did 10 drops of hades+ and 10 drops of inhibitor per liter in a gallon of distilled water, which came out to 38 drops of each. This sound right to you?


 Sorry, Mayhems deals in ltrs not US gallons (they are a UK company), the instructions should be on the bottle.


----------



## ciarlatano

Bridgekeeper said:


> I would suspect costs. Shipping such heavy items is expensive and they probably wanted to reduce costs and make more money for them selfs.


He was actually asking if you know who makes the XL8 (or if you have any insight on it), not why they switched. It's Corsair, there is no mystery as to why they switched.


----------



## Bridgekeeper

ciarlatano said:


> He was actually asking if you know who makes the XL8 (or if you have any insight on it), not why they switched. It's Corsair, there is no mystery as to why they switched.


No i didn't get involved in it as it has nothing to do with me anymore.


----------



## DeXel

Flushed XTR out of my loop. Not as bad as some other people experienced here. Some block staining, channel blockage, and mostly this gunk on the monoblock.









Thanks Daniel for providing X1 free of charge!


----------



## RiffageGalore

Artjsalina5 said:


> Did 10 drops of hades+ and 10 drops of inhibitor per liter in a gallon of distilled water, which came out to 38 drops of each. This sound right to you?


The math is correct if you're going by 10 drops per liter (1 gallon is about 3.8 liters). 

But whether or not 10 drops per liter is actually the correct amount is something I have yet to see a clear answer on. I see folks, even the proprietors, saying that "1 or 2 drops is good enough", which totally ignores the bottles recommended amount of 0.5ml per liter of distilled/DI water.

I stopped using those additives because I could never get a clear answer and I was having issues with tarnishing on my nickel blocks. The difference between 1 drop per liter and 10 drops per liter is pretty significant, but no one gives a clear answer as to whether or not 1 is enough or 10 is too much, or 1 is too little and 10 is just right -- or what situations would warrant 10 drops and which would warrant 1. Even with multiple mixing ratios available, we at least need some guidance as to WHEN using 10 drops is appropriate over using 1 drop.


----------



## Artjsalina5

RiffageGalore said:


> The math is correct if you're going by 10 drops per liter (1 gallon is about 3.8 liters).
> 
> But whether or not 10 drops per liter is actually the correct amount is something I have yet to see a clear answer on. I see folks, even the proprietors, saying that "1 or 2 drops is good enough", which totally ignores the bottles recommended amount of 0.5ml per liter of distilled/DI water.
> 
> I stopped using those additives because I could never get a clear answer and I was having issues with tarnishing on my nickel blocks. The difference between 1 drop per liter and 10 drops per liter is pretty significant, but no one gives a clear answer as to whether or not 1 is enough or 10 is too much, or 1 is too little and 10 is just right -- or what situations would warrant 10 drops and which would warrant 1. Even with multiple mixing ratios available, we at least need some guidance as to WHEN using 10 drops is appropriate over using 1 drop.


Yeah, bought some DP Ultra at this point... There should be a clear answer.


----------



## BlueBase

How does one perform loop maintenance with Mayhems XT-1 Nuke?

Drain then Check Blocks (blocks are nickel plated copper)?

If no gunk, just flush with distilled water and refill with Mayhems XT-1 Nuke?

If with gunk
1) brush the reservoir,
2) rinse blocks with water, wipe with non-abrasive cloth, follow with non-abrasive metal polish, wash with dish soap water to remove residue, then rinse with distilled water.
3) then use Mayhems Blitz Part 1 and 2,
4) finally then refill with Mayhems XT-1 Nuke?

also, would it be better to use some other detergent rather than dish soap? or use a drop of blitz part 2 diluted in water?


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## pompss

Hi guys , I cleaned my rad from hwlabs with part 1 followed all the instructions then after i installed the rad i run part 2 for like 23-24 hours and flush it like 3-4 times following the instructions.
After adding X1 uv green and installing uv light from darkside the uv complety faded in 9 hours.Anyone Knows what might be the problem here?
I have specte 3 case with distro, rad from hwlabs and one cpu waterblock magnitude from ekwb @Mayhem


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## pompss

i hear there are issue with hwlabs radiator and mayhems liquid. i have two PrimoChill 360mm EximoSX Ultra Radiator on my ohter loop and the uv its still good after 2 years


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## ciarlatano

BlueBase said:


> How does one perform loop maintenance with Mayhems XT-1 Nuke?
> 
> Drain then Check Blocks (blocks are nickel plated copper)?
> 
> If no gunk, just flush with distilled water and refill with Mayhems XT-1 Nuke?
> 
> If with gunk
> 1) brush the reservoir,
> 2) rinse blocks with water, wipe with non-abrasive cloth, follow with non-abrasive metal polish, wash with soapy water to remove residue, then rinse with distilled water.
> 3) then use Mayhems Blitz Part 1 and 2,
> 4) finally then refill with Mayhems XT-1 Nuke?
> 
> also, would it be better to use detergent rather than soap?


If no gunk, flush with distilled and refill and refill. I usually run Pt 2 once every two years just to keep things pristine.

If you have gunk.....well, your first step is finding out what caused it and solving that issue. Everything beyond that will be dictated by that. BUT, Pt 1 is a pre-assembly cleaner for rads only, mainly focused on removing manufacturing residue. It does NOT get used on the entire loop.


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## ciarlatano

pompss said:


> i hear there are issue with hwlabs radiator and mayhems liquid. i have two PrimoChill 360mm EximoSX Ultra Radiator on my ohter loop and the uv its still good after 2 years


And I hear the moon is made of cheese. The issue you refer to is with *UV *liquids, not specifically Mayhems liquids. Clean the rads as recommended and it is not a prevalent issue.

BTW, not giving you a hard time. Pointing out that the way things snowball on internet forums is nuts.


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## pompss

ciarlatano said:


> And I hear the moon is made of cheese. The issue you refer to is with *UV *liquids, not specifically Mayhems liquids. Clean the rads as recommended and it is not a prevalent issue.
> 
> BTW, not giving you a hard time. Pointing out that the way things snowball on internet forums is nuts.


 yeah my x1 its uv so i guess there is a issue with uv liquids and hwlabs radiator. i Clean it twice with part 1 and flushing 10 time and the same thing with part 2. I guess there is some corrosion inside the radiator that change the color. ph was 6-7


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## BlueBase

ciarlatano said:


> If no gunk, flush with distilled and refill and refill. I usually run Pt 2 once every two years just to keep things pristine.
> 
> If you have gunk.....well, your first step is finding out what caused it and solving that issue. Everything beyond that will be dictated by that. BUT, Pt 1 is a pre-assembly cleaner for rads only, mainly focused on removing manufacturing residue. It does NOT get used on the entire loop.


If no gunk and not flushing with part 2, how many times flush with distilled water?


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## dwolvin

I always go with three rinses.


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## pompss

the x1 eco its defect or some manufacturer issue
i pour what was left of 125 ml concetrate x1 green uv on glass and with uv lights there is no uv effect .
I added some clear uv on the mix and its glowing . I added some in loop and after 30 minutes its start fading again . So beside the issue with mayhems x1 that is no uv even if the label say so the rad for hwlabs are not compatible with uv coolant from Mayhems.
I order two new radiator from primochill and also new x1 uv 1 liter bottle and i also order some primochill green uv coolant .
I will do some test


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## BlueBase

Can I use Distilled drinking water for Mayhems Blitz Part 1 and 2?
Or does it have to be the industrial type of stuff at the batteries section in the grocery store?


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## ciarlatano

BlueBase said:


> Can I use Distilled drinking water for Mayhems Blitz Part 1 and 2?
> Or does it have to be the industrial type of stuff at the batteries section in the grocery store?


Distilled drinking water is fine.


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## BlueBase

ciarlatano said:


> Distilled drinking water is fine.


$2.34 per gallon for distilled drinking water from grocery store
$14.60 per gallon for distilled battery water from automotive shop
$7.85 per gallon for multi-purpose deionized water from soap shop

in which order would you prefer?
i get the feeling any distilled water is better than deionized water?
also, for mixing with mayhems blitz part 1 and 2, distilled water is distilled water, doesnt matter if its for drinking or car batteries? or is the one for car batteries preferred?


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## Avacado

BlueBase said:


> $2.34 per gallon for distilled drinking water from grocery store
> $14.60 per gallon for distilled battery water from automotive shop
> $7.85 per gallon for multi-purpose deionized water from soap shop
> 
> in which order would you prefer?


Distilled from the grocery, no question.


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## acoustic

I get distilled at Target. It’s fancy


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## dwolvin

Seconded on cheap distilled- it's all I've ever used with some concentrate...


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## Sir Beregond

I don't know why but grocery stores around here are still almost always out of distilled water. Get lucky here and there at a particular store.

But yes, cheap distilled water from the store is all you need for this.


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## ciarlatano

acoustic said:


> I get distilled at Target. It’s fancy


And even has a snappy carry handle on the bottle! 

I actually typically use this, as well.



Sir Beregond said:


> I don't know why but grocery stores around here are still almost always out of distilled water. Get lucky here and there at a particular store.
> 
> But yes, cheap distilled water from the store is all you need for this.


And....THIS is the reason I started getting it at Target. Seems they always have it in good supply on the shelf.


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## DeXel

Sir Beregond said:


> I don't know why but grocery stores around here are still almost always out of distilled water. Get lucky here and there at a particular store.


I noticed this for the first time this year in 9 years I've been watercooling here in SoCal. I had to get one of those dispenser bottles with a faucet to flush our XTR as that's the only thing was in stock. And I really hate pocking holes into that thing.



acoustic said:


> I get distilled at Target. It’s fancy


It does look fancy lol. I'll check Target along with Vons/Ralphs for distilled from now on.


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## Sir Beregond

ciarlatano said:


> And....THIS is the reason I started getting it at Target. Seems they always have it in good supply on the shelf.


Not here they don't. Usually only one particular Safeway I can find some, but even they were out last time I looked a week ago.


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## ciarlatano

Sir Beregond said:


> Not here they don't. Usually only one particular Safeway I can find some, but even they were out last time I looked a week ago.


Just checked all the Targets by me, and they are all out, as well. The Walmarts in the area all show in stock in the store. Crazy times.....


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## BlueBase

Sir Beregond said:


> I don't know why but grocery stores around here are still almost always out of distilled water. Get lucky here and there at a particular store.
> 
> But yes, cheap distilled water from the store is all you need for this.


even if its for drinking distilled water?

basically, i should pick up the cheapest distilled water i can find?


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## Sir Beregond

BlueBase said:


> even if its for drinking distilled water?
> 
> basically, i should pick up the cheapest distilled water i can find?


What do you mean "drinking"?


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## BlueBase

Sir Beregond said:


> What do you mean "drinking"?


Distilled water that was made for drinking or human consumption (distilled drinking water).
Just making sure this cheap stuff is alright. Image below.


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## DeXel

BlueBase said:


> Distilled water that was made for drinking or human consumption (distilled drinking water). Image below.


I've never seen that in the USA. You're not really suppose to drink distilled water as it is stripped of all the minerals. It won't really harm you, but it won't give you any benefits either.


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## BlueBase

DeXel said:


> I've never seen that in the USA. You're not really suppose to drink distilled water as it is stripped of all the minerals. It won't really harm you, but it won't give you any benefits either.


Ah, I am thinking about using for Mayhemz Blitz Part 1 and 2. Also for flushing. It is really cheap, about $2 per gallon.
Just being careful though. I hope its compatible with the cleaners and parts.
Watercooling parts are expensive


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## ciarlatano

BlueBase said:


> Ah, I am thinking about using for Mayhemz Blitz Part 1 and 2. Also for flushing. It is really cheap, about $2 per gallon.
> Just being careful though. I hope its compatible with the cleaners and parts.
> Watercooling parts are expensive


You want the distilled drinking water - Deionized Water Vs Distilled Water - Knowing The Difference


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## BlueBase

ciarlatano said:


> You want the distilled drinking water


Thank You, Then I will be using this "Absolute" Brand of distilled drinking water on my first water cooling build as well as maintenance.


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## pompss

The hw labs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTX gave me problems of fading uv coolant since i purchased them 2 years ago. The flow its really restrictive and i notice the other day when i clean them. To remove the water inside i have to shake it and move it many time. Dont get me wrong i think they were the best rad out there bc of performance and quality and they may still are for most people.
The primochill rad are much less restrictive and when i install them almost all air trapped in the rad was out in a few shakes. the hw labs even when they were new was a damn pain in the ass to remove all the air.I have to try in the future different hwlabs raditors with less restrictive flow but as i understand by reading some new and old reviews this is the only major problems of most hwlabs radiator have.Pretty much i think this was the problem of the fading uv. Nano coolant from Mayhems especially uv are not good for Black ice Nemesis 360gtx bc of the restrictive flow.


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## ciarlatano

pompss said:


> The hw labs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTX gave me problems of fading uv coolant since i purchased them 2 years ago. The flow its really restrictive and i notice the other day when i clean them. To remove the water inside i have to shake it and move it many time. Dont get me wrong i think they were the best rad out there bc of performance and quality and they may still are for most people.
> The primochill rad are much less restrictive and when i install them almost all air trapped in the rad was out in a few shakes. the hw labs even when they were new was a damn pain in the ass to remove all the air.I have to try in the future different hwlabs raditors with less restrictive flow but as i understand by reading some new and old reviews this is the only major problems of most hwlabs radiator have.Pretty much i think this was the problem of the fading uv. Nano coolant from Mayhems especially uv are not good for Black ice Nemesis 360gtx bc of the restrictive flow.


The Nemesis GTX is absolutely middle of the pack average in terms of restriction. How much you need to shake and move the rad to get liquid out has to do with tube and endcap placement, not flow restriction.









And as much as you are set on trying to blame the HWL rad for the UV failing, a quick Google search brings up the issue with numerous brands of rads - Google Is Your Friend


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## pompss

ciarlatano said:


> The Nemesis GTX is absolutely middle of the pack average in terms of restriction. How much you need to shake and move the rad to get liquid out has to do with tube and endcap placement, not flow restriction.
> View attachment 2593490
> 
> 
> And as much as you are set on trying to blame the HWL rad for the UV failing, a quick Google search brings up the issue with numerous brands of rads - Google Is Your Friend


Its very restrictive i notice when i was cleaning them with part 1. Also with the same tubing and same loop system i just swap the radiator and the flow rate was much much better on the primochill and the air trapped was gone way faster then the hwlabs
I'm not a newbie This is my 20rd watercooling system with hard tubing and i always used Hwlabs. I cant speak of other people or review bc i dont know how the clean they system. I'm really picky when i clean my loop.This is based on my Findings and my experience with hwlabs rads . i still have to test the primochill with mayhems x1 uv and see if its start fading but so far my conclusions remain the same. Fact is the the gtx 360 its one of the best radiator out there for performance but its way to restrictive for nano coolant and uv. Again this is based on my findings.


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