# Samsung UN49KS8000 (2160P TV) Thread/Discussion



## TheCautiousOne

I purchased the TV through Amazon but dealt with Electronics Express to get the deal on the TV.

When I first purchased the TV, I used my debit card info (And to my knowledge, Didn't know that I couldn't spend that much with it) So Amazon couldn't process my Payment. This took place Saturday. When I got the email for an alternative to process the payment, I put in my Direct Account info which worked, but was never processed (As in, The TV isn't paid for yet, or rather my bank won't show if the cash was taken out)

So I sent them an email. Fedex has the shipping info, yet hasn't shipped yet









I need this TV to leave the station.

In a response email is states:
Quote:


> Tracking may take 24-48 hours to updated after the order has shipped.


It's possible I suppose that I am just being paranoid, but would not like the ordered to be postponed more than it is already.

TCO


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## 176355

I've been researching 40+ 4k displays for about 2 weeks now and the KS8000\KS8500 keeps popping up every where as pretty much the best solution right now that doesn't cost $3500+ for a PC monitor. I'd like to get one of the curved 50in ones but I'm worried about the input lag and 60hz coming from my qnix 2710 @120hz. I feel like the picture quality and real estate will counteract any motion issues though from what I'm reading. I'm definitely excited to see what you think of it.


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## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BearonicMan*
> 
> I've been researching 40+ 4k displays for about 2 weeks now and the KS8000\KS8500 keeps popping up every where as pretty much the best solution right now that doesn't cost $3500+ for a PC monitor. I'd like to get one of the curved 50in ones but I'm worried about the input lag and 60hz coming from my qnix 2710 @120hz. I feel like the picture quality and real estate will counteract any motion issues though from what I'm reading. I'm definitely excited to see what you think of it.


Well thank you so much for saying something in the thread! I was wondering how long I would be alone at this point, though that wouldn't stop me from posting my findings.

I do plan on doccing the unboxing, boot up.... etc.

I too have a 2710 (overclocked to 100hz) and also have purchased a Crossover 324k (2160p at 60hz) and hasn't been an issue going from 100hz to 60hz at all.

TCO


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## MenacingTuba

This TV, like almost every other TV is a joke which uses LED PWM Dimming or Flicker which ruins motion clarity and makes some people suffer from health issues like headaches and/or eyestrain:

https://flic.kr/p/BNMRYUPWM Comparison by Deepinthesky Teslastorm, on Flickr

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/pulse_width_modulation.htm#side_effects

Motion Interpolation needs to be enabled (not available in the Game & PC Modes) to get rid of the double image ghosting. Only select Korean monitors/TV's, LG and Sony TV's are PWM/Flicker Free.

Samsung double image ghosting which also looks blurred to the eyes (the camera can't capture the blur since the display is rapidly flickering on and off)


Sony X800D without PWM:


LG OLED without PWM:


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## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> This TV, like almost every other TV is a joke which uses LED PWM Dimming or Flicker which ruins motion clarity and makes some people suffer from health issues like headaches and/or eyestrain:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/BNMRYUPWM Comparison by Deepinthesky Teslastorm, on Flickr
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/pulse_width_modulation.htm#side_effects
> 
> Motion Interpolation needs to be enabled (not available in the Game & PC Modes) to get rid of the double image ghosting. Only select Korean monitors/TV's, LG and Sony TV's are PWM/Flicker Free.
> 
> Samsung double image ghosting which also looks blurred to the eyes (the camera can't capture the blur since the display is rapidly flickering on and off)
> 
> 
> Sony X800D without PWM:
> 
> 
> LG OLED without PWM:


As I see your points, and understand that your knowledge of TVs/Monitors is far greater than mine, I would still have to say that I have yet to have a problem watching a TV that has PWM flicker or what have you.

A lot of people have asked the question about flicker, or interpolation in the comments, and I really have yet to read an answer that produces a negative thought from myself.

As I have said, The deal on the TV is to far gone for me to crawfish out (Not that I would anyway) and I will give you the feedback (Honest I promise as I have no reason not too) about how the tube feels.

TCO


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## TheCautiousOne

TCO


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## 176355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> This TV, like almost every other TV is a joke which uses LED PWM Dimming or Flicker which ruins motion clarity and makes some people suffer from health issues like headaches and/or eyestrain:


That's a lot of interesting information, thank you. What would your recommendation be for a large display to be used as a PC monitor? I've looked into 32\34in 4k monitors but it seems like that wouldn't be enough of an upgrade coming from 27in 1440p @120hz. I'm looking for more of an upgrade than going from 24in 1920x1200 @60hz to my current setup. I was also looking at the curved version of this the UN49KS8500.


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## TheCautiousOne

TCO


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## TheCautiousOne

TV has arrived, went and picked it up at the post office. I can't believe I got a TV shipped.... that was a 1st.

Arrived in cardboard box and you can see the actual TV box has a layer of bubble wrap around it. So that was comforting. Was shipped in a box marked as Fragile.

Bought the TV Saturday morning and it arrived before the expected first date (Sept 29th - OCT 4th)

So +++ All around experience so far.

Going to watch survivor tonight so I stashed the tube at my dad's for the moment. Will take pictures and report back as soon as I can.

TCO


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## TheCautiousOne

WELL! Ill Be! Got the TV.

Very Impressed with the Packaging, being that I purchased it online and was shipped to me. Was nervous, but the box was in great shape.

It was bubblewrapped in the main box, then the TV box you would buy at the store is inside the bubble wrap.



Perfect Shape Inside.

[IMG

Then It has on top inside the box when you first open it



And then all of the excessories, such as the remote



And the stand, with the powercable, and Uconnect (A single cable that everything plugs into: HDMI ports)






And a shot of the TV on. I will take more pictures or somehow try and explain the tv brightness, contrast, etc when I have more time. Was just happy to get it in a couple days after ordering.




Sorry if this shot was a little crooked



TCO


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## smkd13

looks good man. I am in the market for a TV soon as well ( i hate spending money most days but need to upgrade the one i have) That one looks pretty slick with good specs. looking forward to an opinion about it and experience you have with it.


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## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BearonicMan*
> 
> That's a lot of interesting information, thank you. What would your recommendation be for a large display to be used as a PC monitor? I've looked into 32\34in 4k monitors but it seems like that wouldn't be enough of an upgrade coming from 27in 1440p @120hz. I'm looking for more of an upgrade than going from 24in 1920x1200 @60hz to my current setup. I was also looking at the curved version of this the UN49KS8500.


The Sony X800D series displays (Rtings review) are the only affordable sub 50" 4K TV's which aren't PWM using faux 4K displays unlike almost everything else. The KS8500 has mediocre color presets with completely skewed gamma compared to the KS800 and Sony, and both Samsung's use motion clarity ruining PWM (example), and have slower pixel response times vs Sony. I prefer the Samsung's glossy screen over the Sony's semi-glossy coating, and both the KS800 and X800D have excellent color presets, but I won't encourage others to buy faux 4K TV's with PWM from companies like Samsung who won't spend the extra dollar on direct current back-lighting.


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## csbear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The Sony X800D series displays (Rtings review) are the only affordable sub 50" 4K TV's which aren't PWM using faux 4K displays unlike almost everything else. The KS8500 has mediocre color presets with completely skewed gamma compared to the KS800 and Sony, and both Samsung's use motion clarity ruining PWM (example), and have slower pixel response times vs Sony. I prefer the Samsung's glossy screen over the Sony's semi-glossy coating, and both the KS800 and X800D have excellent color presets, but I won't encourage others to buy faux 4K TV's with PWM from companies like Samsung who won't spend the extra dollar on direct current back-lighting.


Menacing, what is your opinion on the LG oleds (C6/B6) as a monitor? I don't play actiony games (RPGs mainly), and I'm ok with the 55" size since I will mount it. I am considering the X800D and KS8000 as alternatives, but may just fork over the cash for the LG. I do watch all my movies/TVshows on my current monitor, so the image quality of the LG is tempting. I also want a screen that is much larger than my current 27" Eizo.

I've read all the reviews and checked out Hardforum and AVSforum, but just curious of your opinion.


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## 176355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The Sony X800D series displays (Rtings review) are the only affordable sub 50" 4K TV's which aren't PWM using faux 4K displays unlike almost everything else. The KS8500 has mediocre color presets with completely skewed gamma compared to the KS800 and Sony, and both Samsung's use motion clarity ruining PWM (example), and have slower pixel response times vs Sony. I prefer the Samsung's glossy screen over the Sony's semi-glossy coating, and both the KS800 and X800D have excellent color presets, but I won't encourage others to buy faux 4K TV's with PWM from companies like Samsung who won't spend the extra dollar on direct current back-lighting.


The X800D was initially on my list because of the good reviews it had with motion clarity but a lot users(hard forum, internet, etc...) said they had ended up returning it and going with the KS8000\KS8500 because the black levels were so crap on the Sony and were really happy with the Samsung. Honestly I think I just need to see them in person at this point to make a proper decision.


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## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BearonicMan*
> 
> The X800D was initially on my list because of the good reviews it had with motion clarity but a lot users(hard forum, internet, etc...) said they had ended up returning it and going with the KS8000\KS8500 because the black levels were so crap on the Sony and were really happy with the Samsung. Honestly I think I just need to see them in person at this point to make a proper decision.


I saw the X800D and the S8000 on Display at BestBuy. I found the colours and clarity better on the 8000 + The actual design of the Tv Was significantly better. Thin casing, Very small footprint.

TCO


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## TheCautiousOne

Cable is Ordered. "Premium Certified 10ft"



TCO


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## kayan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BearonicMan*
> 
> The X800D was initially on my list because of the good reviews it had with motion clarity but a lot users(hard forum, internet, etc...) said they had ended up returning it and going with the KS8000\KS8500 because the black levels were so crap on the Sony and were really happy with the Samsung. Honestly I think I just need to see them in person at this point to make a proper decision.


We just bought our first 4k TV tonight. We were undecided between the ks8000 and x850d. They were both on display at Best Buy, and we ended up getting the x850d, as in the end it was 100 less. I have yet to game on it, but I will this weekend. We did put in a 4k bluray (Warcraft) and both of us commented on how awesome it looked. Great black levels! Absolutely no light bleed, that we noticed.


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## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csbear*
> 
> Menacing, what is your opinion on the LG oleds (C6/B6) as a monitor? I don't play actiony games (RPGs mainly), and I'm ok with the 55" size since I will mount it. I am considering the X800D and KS8000 as alternatives, but may just fork over the cash for the LG. I do watch all my movies/TVshows on my current monitor, so the image quality of the LG is tempting. I also want a screen that is much larger than my current 27" Eizo.
> 
> I've read all the reviews and checked out Hardforum and AVSforum, but just curious of your opinion.


Both LG's are PWM/Flicker Free, destroy all LCD's image quality wise and support 4:4:4, but the B6 has very high input lag (70ms which is double that of Samsung & Sony's 4:4:4 lag) and inferior HDR support. Like displays which use PWM, I would not buy the B6 on principle since it has unstable and high input lag which makes mouse use floaty and laggy feeling. The E6 also offers better HDR support than the B6

http://ca.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/e6
http://ca.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/b6
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BearonicMan*
> 
> The X800D was initially on my list because of the good reviews it had with motion clarity but a lot users(hard forum, internet, etc...) said they had ended up returning it and going with the KS8000\KS8500 because the black levels were so crap on the Sony and were really happy with the Samsung. Honestly I think I just need to see them in person at this point to make a proper decision.


Poor black depth from Sony the X800D is either from panel lottery, user error (using the wrong HDMI Black Level setting) or user stupidity (using it in the dark with the brightness cranked; no LCD has high enough static contrast to display black as black instead of greyish when outputting 300cdm/2 brightness) since the panel has >3,500:1 contrast..

Glossy screens like the KS800 look better in stores versus the X800D since it's semi-glossy coating turns reflections caused by the store lights into white haze and reduces color vibrancy. When used as intended with a biased light in an otherwise light-less room the differences become minute.

*Left Glossy vs Semi-Glossy vs Plasma Deposition Coating*: Make sure to view the full screen version (link) in another window


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



https://flic.kr/p/x8WJFgCoating Comparison 2 by Deepinthesky Teslastorm, on Flickr


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## TheCautiousOne

Little update from last night.

Watched 2 shows on the KS8000.

Used HBO Go through the PS4 to watch ROME.

Had the TV set on Game Mode: While watching Rome, I switched Game Mode off and Set HDR on and Immediately starting to see Judder.
I had to set all of the Inputs (HDMI) to have "HDMI UHD Colour" Which allows the full bandwidth of HDMI 2.0 to the TV from the Source. This is not set by default.

In the write up from Rtings.com about the KS8000 they say to remove the judder, you set AUTO MOTION to CUSTOM, then take both of the sliders down to 0. This removes the judder and won't initiate the SOE effect.

After Watching ROME on Game mode (The Episode Finished) we then watched an Episode of Walking Dead. I did the same test as turning Game Mode off and Running HDR with the show. I saw no judder nor did I change any other settings previously mentioned by RTings.

The HDR really was crystal clear, the stream I checked from Netflix was still in 1080p 60hz.

TCO


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## TheCautiousOne

10 Ft Premium Certified HDMI Cable should be here tom so I can hook up my PC to the Samsung. Will Play things in 4k and Tinker with the Tube then.

TCO


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## 176355

I'm really interested to see how well this works as a monitor.


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## mrtbahgs

Glad to hear positive first impressions with the TV.

I ordered the 65 inch 2 weeks ago from Samsung and am still waiting for it to ship out since they are on a massive back order apparently. Mine will also be hooked up to my PC to watch some shows, but I don't plan to use it for gaming or as a monitor, just as my main tv.

I too am a little scared that it is shipping via some freight company and hope there won't be any damage issues when I open the box.


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## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> ButI won't encourage others to buy faux 4K TV's with PWM from companies like Samsung who won't spend the extra dollar on direct current back-lighting.


Almost every single vendor minus LG uses RGB panels. There are no "faux 4K TV's" minus the LG ones that use WRGB panels effectively having only 3/4 of the pixels of a RGB screen due to the added white pixel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Little update from last night.
> The HDR really was crystal clear, the stream I checked from Netflix was still in 1080p 60hz.
> 
> TCO


Neither of those tv shows have HDR. If you want to try HDR on Netflix check Marco Polo and Daredevil. And on the TV's built in app since HDR is only aviable in 4K.


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## boredgunner

I have to ask, why would one buy this over an LG OLED?


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## kayan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> I have to ask, why would one buy this over an LG OLED?


Price. On sale the cheapest LG 4K OLED is 2300, whereas the Sammy is 1300 on sale. If I had an extra grand to blow I would've gotten the 4K OLED, but had to settle for the 55" x850D.


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## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayan*
> 
> Price. On sale the cheapest LG 4K OLED is 2300, whereas the Sammy is 1300 on sale. If I had an extra grand to blow I would've gotten the 4K OLED, but had to settle for the 55" x850D.


I see, thanks. That is an awesome sale price for the Samsung. Do any recent LCD TVs not use PWM dimming?


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## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BearonicMan*
> 
> I'm really interested to see how well this works as a monitor.


Wow! Well good reports were that I unhooked my Crossover and Qnix and plugged in the HDMI cord (10ft from Monoprice) and the Tv Booted up from HDMI 2 (UHD enabled on the Port ) straight to 3240 x 2160p at 60hz. No problems.

Colours were quite amazing compared to my Crossover 324k Monitor. Played FIFA and the Original Titanfall.

No Problems with Fifa but Titanfall at 4k on the 49" Sammy was a little more taxing than I thought. When the port that the HDMI is plugged in to is changed to PC, you cannot enable game mode. You have to change the port to read (Game Machine or whatnot) to enable Game mode but the colours look different, maybe was my settings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Glad to hear positive first impressions with the TV.
> 
> I ordered the 65 inch 2 weeks ago from Samsung and am still waiting for it to ship out since they are on a massive back order apparently. Mine will also be hooked up to my PC to watch some shows, but I don't plan to use it for gaming or as a monitor, just as my main tv.
> 
> I too am a little scared that it is shipping via some freight company and hope there won't be any damage issues when I open the box.


If you hook up that TV to the computer and use it to watch shows, you will be in for a treat. Gorgeous display. No Quams whatsover about the money spent.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> Almost every single vendor minus LG uses RGB panels. There are no "faux 4K TV's" minus the LG ones that use WRGB panels effectively having only 3/4 of the pixels of a RGB screen due to the added white pixel.
> *Neither of those tv shows have HDR. If you want to try HDR on Netflix check Marco Polo and Daredevil. And on the TV's built in app since HDR is only aviable in 4K*.


Didn't Realize that









We upgraded the netflix account to incoporate the UHD availability of shows, though I will be able to use the PS4 Pro for that reason in Nov









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> I have to ask, why would one buy this over an LG OLED?


Money Gunner. Money.

I picked up the 49" on sale from amazon for 996.00 USD. That saved me over 350$. Bestbuy was selling the tube for 1197 + taxes at 9.5%

TCO


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## TheCautiousOne

@GoLDii3

This is what I was seeing here: I found this on RTings.com
Quote:


> The Samsung KS8000 can only display HDR10 format. Netflix does offer both type of HDR on some content, so if you are streaming some content with both Dolby Video HDR and HDR10 metadata, the KS8000 will automatically display HDR10 data and inform you via a popup that HDR content is playing.
> The HDR+ you are referring to is a new picture mode that was added after the 1112 firmware update. *The HDR+ picture mode* will extrapolate normal content (SDR) to an "Fake HDR", which will make the color more vibrant and highlight more bright.


TCO


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## TheCautiousOne

Spoiler: KS8000 Input Specs







Sony TV Comparisons for Input lag, 4k res, HDR inputs etc. (ADDED TO OP)

*
700D*



*800D*



*850D*



*930D*



TCO


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## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> Almost every single vendor minus LG uses RGB panels. There are no "faux 4K TV's" minus the LG ones that use WRGB panels effectively having only 3/4 of the pixels of a RGB screen due to the added white pixel.


PWM back-lighting=faux 4K in my book:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


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## mrtbahgs

Hopefully you can assist me with a few questions since you have the TV in front of you.

I know the one I ordered may be different since it's a different size screen, but I have a feeling the legs will be the same.
Could you measure the gap from the table top to the bottom of the actual screen (just above the bezel) for me please?
I am thinking 3 inches or so, but ideally you can get as accurate as possible (1/8 or 1/16").

Also are there any inputs on the TV itself to not have to use the One Connect box or can the box be stored in that opening behind the tv?
I only need to connect a single HDMI cable so I was hoping to be able to avoid the One Connect box.
Then again I may want to connect an antenna as well so I would need to box for that purpose, i'd just rather avoid the extra box and cable if possible.


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## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Hopefully you can assist me with a few questions since you have the TV in front of you.
> 
> I know the one I ordered may be different since it's a different size screen, but I have a feeling the legs will be the same.
> Could you measure the gap from the table top to the bottom of the actual screen (just above the bezel) for me please?
> I am thinking 3 inches or so, but ideally you can get as accurate as possible (1/8 or 1/16").
> 
> *Also are there any inputs on the TV itself to not have to use the One Connect box or can the box be stored in that opening behind the tv?
> I only need to connect a single HDMI cable so I was hoping to be able to avoid the One Connect box.
> Then again I may want to connect an antenna as well so I would need to box for that purpose, i'd just rather avoid the extra box and cable if possible*.


Here is the Back of the TV without the One Connect.

http://i.rtings.com/images/reviews/ks8000/ks8000-inputs-side-large.jpg

So to answer your question, no, there isn't a way without the one connect box.

I will Measure the Tube for you when I get home.

TCO


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## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Here is the Back of the TV without the One Connect.
> 
> http://i.rtings.com/images/reviews/ks8000/ks8000-inputs-side-large.jpg
> 
> So to answer your question, no, there isn't a way without the one connect box.
> 
> I will Measure the Tube for you when I get home.
> 
> TCO


Thanks for the pic and explanation, I guess I overlooked that photo when I checked rtings a few weeks back.

In regards to measuring, I appreciate your willingness to, but it turns out I don't need it anymore.
I went from having no clue when my TV would ship for the past 2 weeks to receiving a shipping confirmation last night that my order was processed and now this morning I got a call saying its available for delivery. A quick change of events and a good surprise.
I was wanting the measurement to know if my center speaker is short enough to remain under the TV otherwise I would have rerouted it ahead of time.
Now I will just find out on my own by placing it there and looking lol.


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## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Thanks for the pic and explanation, I guess I overlooked that photo when I checked rtings a few weeks back.
> 
> In regards to measuring, I appreciate your willingness to, but it turns out I don't need it anymore.
> I went from having no clue when my TV would ship for the past 2 weeks to receiving a shipping confirmation last night that my order was processed and now this morning I got a call saying its available for delivery. A quick change of events and a good surprise.
> I was wanting the measurement to know if my center speaker is short enough to remain under the TV otherwise I would have rerouted it ahead of time.
> Now I will just find out on my own by placing it there and looking lol.


Great news to hear!! Sorry I didn't get back to you in time. I had to watch survivor when I got off work at dads. Got home and crashed.

TCO


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## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> PWM back-lighting=faux 4K in my book:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


LOL ok...here i was thinking resolution was about pixels and not about how the screen gets bright.

But for everyone's sake,add "in my opinion or in my book" next time though. We don't want misinformation do we?


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## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> LOL ok...here i was thinking resolution was about pixels and not about how the screen gets bright.




TCO

Tried to watch Walking Dead last night in Standard mode, but the Auto Dimming of the Leds kept lowering....









The Other Modes I do not believe do that.....

Found an article that addresses the auto dim (Energy Saving Feature)


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## ToTheSun!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> LOL ok...here i was thinking resolution was about pixels and not about how the screen gets bright.
Click to expand...

The only thing one has to deal with is the fact that NCX is one of the very few authorities on display tech on this forum.

You guys understood very well what he meant. He has standards, unlike some.

In fact, you should be pleased he's posting in your thread. His presence is much more valuable than a rare Pepe.


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## Stars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> PWM back-lighting=faux 4K in my book:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Pwm is garbage on pc monitors as well as tvs, smartphones and any other displays. I rly dont get how Sony is the single tv manufacturer that doesnt use pwm on their TVs.. I think LG Oled tvs also dont use pwm, but all the lcd ones do.

Wouldnt personally buy a tv with pwm backlight. Th rest of the specs on the Samies is good, however pwm just sucks D.


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## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stars*
> 
> Pwm is garbage on pc monitors as well as tvs, smartphones and any other displays. I rly dont get how Sony is the single tv manufacturer that doesnt use pwm on their TVs.. I think LG Oled tvs also dont use pwm, but all the lcd ones do.
> 
> Wouldnt personally buy a tv with pwm backlight. Th rest of the specs on the Samies is good, however pwm just sucks D.


If the PWM on Tvs or monitors doesn't effect the end user... then why just shut them down completely?

TCO


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## MistaSparkul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If the PWM on Tvs or monitors doesn't effect the end user... then why just shut them down completely?
> 
> TCO


I guess you have a point. Similarly IPS monitors these days are complete garbage with crap contrast ratio and glow yet so many people think its the holy grail of image quality. To each their own I suppose.


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## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MistaSparkul*
> 
> I guess you have a point. Similarly IPS monitors these days are complete garbage with crap contrast ratio and glow yet so many people think its the holy grail of image quality. To each their own I suppose.


@MenacingTuba has his ducks in a row and the knowledge of monitors, tvs far surpasses mine, but one man's word and opinion on what they like and dislike doesn't make a 300$ or 2500$ worth anything if the person buying it enjoys it, and or finds no flaws in the product.

TCO


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## Xiorath

hey man, I have a 55 inch version of this set. just got it along with a GTX 1080 the other day. Question, how did you get your picture modes and HDR+ / game mode re enabled? its grayed out for me


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## mrtbahgs

Loving my new 65KS8000 so far, but it did give me some trouble with a few initial setup things.

One that might save others some trouble down the line and perhaps you too is that I couldn't get my PC to recognize it as a 4k display, the max resolution to pick was 1920x1080 and I tried multiple things to get it to work.
Finally after watching a few shows and at least enjoying the TV itself I thought to check if it was a setting or something with my receiver that was causing a pass-through issue.
It wasn't quite what I was expecting, but sure enough it was my receiver that was causing the issue.

The HDMI cable was hooked up to the PC slot of the receiver like it has been for years and I didn't need to touch any of it to swap out from my 1080p TV (or so I thought).
I came to realize though that the PC slot on my 3.5 year old receiver is NOT 4k capable, only like 4 of the 7 HDMI ports claim to be 4k.
So once I moved the cable over to the empty Game slot which is rated for 4k, the PC allowed me to finally select the TV's native resolution and I am now good to go!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xiorath*
> 
> hey man, I have a 55 inch version of this set. just got it along with a GTX 1080 the other day. Question, how did you get your picture modes and HDR+ / game mode re enabled? its grayed out for me


HDR + is not true HDR. It mimics HDR.

A show that has HDR will have a pop up when HDR is detected. You have it on game mode, then later on if Battlefield has HDR, once you start the game to play, "HDR is Detected" etc, without having to switch anything.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Loving my new 65KS8000 so far, but it did give me some trouble with a few initial setup things.
> 
> One that might save others some trouble down the line and perhaps you too is that I couldn't get my PC to recognize it as a 4k display, the max resolution to pick was 1920x1080 and I tried multiple things to get it to work.
> Finally after watching a few shows and at least enjoying the TV itself I thought to check if it was a setting or something with my receiver that was causing a pass-through issue.
> It wasn't quite what I was expecting, but sure enough it was my receiver that was causing the issue.
> 
> The HDMI cable was hooked up to the PC slot of the receiver like it has been for years and I didn't need to touch any of it to swap out from my 1080p TV (or so I thought).
> I came to realize though that the PC slot on my 3.5 year old receiver is NOT 4k capable, only like 4 of the 7 HDMI ports claim to be 4k.
> So once I moved the cable over to the empty Game slot which is rated for 4k, the PC allowed me to finally select the TV's native resolution and I am now good to go!


Main thing is to make sure UHD HDMI is enabled on each HDMI slot of the One connect (Done Through the TV) and honestly, every HDMI on the Tube should be able to display 2160p, But you can go in the on screen menu of the TV and Change the "Type" of Component each HDMI is set at, Blu Ray Player, Game console, PC etc.

TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I had reset the picture, had to go to system/ settings/ then find the ECO solutions to turn the Auto Dimming Led feature off.

TCO


----------



## kayan

@TheCautiousOne how are you liking your display now? We ended up returning the Sony 850d that we had gotten. Considering the KS8000/8500, or an UH8500 as a replacement.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayan*
> 
> @TheCautiousOne how are you liking your display now? We ended up returning the Sony 850d that we had gotten. Considering the KS8000/8500, or an UH8500 as a replacement.


Adore it completely. My Fiance' has been loving it for her Tv Shows. I played some resident evil on it yesterday and things looked really great! I know the game isn't very taxing, but nonetheless, there would be no way I would return this Tv.

The True Test will be on the 18th, as Battlefield will Release, then the TV will get used 10hours on tuesday, then a couple hours a night after that!

Good luck finding a tube









My Brother owns the X830C and I have played quite the hours on his Tv as well, I can say that the X830C wouldn't hold a candle to the quality of the picture in the KS8000.










TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Main thing is to make sure UHD HDMI is enabled on each HDMI slot of the One connect (Done Through the TV) and honestly, every HDMI on the Tube should be able to display 2160p, But you can go in the on screen menu of the TV and Change the "Type" of Component each HDMI is set at, Blu Ray Player, Game console, PC etc.
> 
> TCO


I do have UHD HDMI turned on for slot 4 which is the only one I am using since I do everything through my receiver instead (Slot 4 is the ARC HDMI slot).
I have one question in regards to your connection to the PC though. What refresh rate are you able to set the TV at in windows and is it Win7 that you are using?
The panel is native 120Hz, but I assume you max out at a 60Hz HDMI connection? I am currently only able to set 30Hz so I need to see if its an old cable or my receiver isn't actually HDMI 2.0 and limits my options.

Thanks and glad you are enjoying your TV!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I do have UHD HDMI turned on for slot 4 which is the only one I am using since I do everything through my receiver instead (Slot 4 is the ARC HDMI slot).
> I have one question in regards to your connection to the PC though. What refresh rate are you able to set the TV at in windows and is it Win7 that you are using?
> The panel is native 120Hz, but I assume you max out at a 60Hz HDMI connection?
> 
> I am currently only able to set 30Hz so I need to see if its an old cable or my receiver isn't actually HDMI 2.0 and limits my options.
> 
> Thanks and glad you are enjoying your TV!


I should have some time tomorrow to hook up the TV to the computer again. I am running Win 7 Professional 64bit. I was on HDMI 2 and had the input set as PC while I was playing.

TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Found this too today, Not sure If I have ever linked it.

PC GAMER CHOICE





TCO

PC GAMER HDR MONITOR/TV GUIDE


----------



## mrtbahgs

I dont understand the blacks not being great thing I commonly see with LED displays.
Perhaps I need some specific image to compare or something, but if the TV is set to a full black background it looks to me as if the TV is turned off.
That in my opinion is pretty damn good and couldn't really get better.

I can see and understand the point of a black screen with some white logo and the white bleeds out a bit maybe, but the black itself is basically flawless to me.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I dont understand the blacks not being great thing I commonly see with LED displays.
> Perhaps I need some specific image to compare or something, but if the TV is set to a full black background it looks to me as if the TV is turned off.
> That in my opinion is pretty damn good and couldn't really get better.
> 
> I can see and understand the point of a black screen with some white logo and the white bleeds out a bit maybe, but the black itself is basically flawless to me.


Well, you seem to have the right idea in mind for testing. Turn off all lights in the room and display a black image and see if the screen looks turned on at all. Maybe turn the screen off then on in this scenario to see the change.

Alternatively you can measure luminance level on a black screen using a colorimeter that can measure screen luminance.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I dont understand the blacks not being great thing I commonly see with LED displays.
> Perhaps I need some specific image to compare or something, but if the TV is set to a full black background it looks to me as if the TV is turned off.
> That in my opinion is pretty damn good and couldn't really get better.
> 
> I can see and understand the point of a black screen with some white logo and the white bleeds out a bit maybe, but the black itself is basically flawless to me.


When I turn off the PS4 after I am done, the signal is gone, then the TV is completely black, but I feel that it is a transistion before the next signal, not truly a "Black" screen you know?

TCO


----------



## Sedolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Well, you seem to have the right idea in mind for testing. Turn off all lights in the room and display a black image and see if the screen looks turned on at all. Maybe turn the screen off then on in this scenario to see the change.
> 
> Alternatively you can measure luminance level on a black screen using a colorimeter that can measure screen luminance.


Some TVs always turn off the backlight when displaying a fully black screen, that's why all the tests have some sort of reticle or logo on them to bypass that.
But not even a Plasma will look turned off in a dark room displaying black, our eyes are just too sensitive. Zero blacks, or go home








Here's two of the later Plasmas next to each other (F8500 and ST60 I believe). The best VA panels nowadays are not that far behind.
https://s13.postimg.org/o123vmudh/h6nm.jpg


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedolf*
> 
> Some TVs always turn off the backlight when displaying a fully black screen, that's why all the tests have some sort of reticle or logo on them to bypass that.
> But not even a Plasma will look turned off in a dark room displaying black, our eyes are just too sensitive. Zero blacks, or go home
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's two of the later Plasmas next to each other (F8500 and ST60 I believe). The best VA panels nowadays are not that far behind.
> https://s13.postimg.org/o123vmudh/h6nm.jpg


I see, that explains a lot. Only OLED would actually look turned off on such a test. I do realize VA is catching up to Plasma black depth, but don't those two Plasma models have around 20000:1 static contrast at least when calibrated? I have very little high end plasma experience.


----------



## Sedolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> I see, that explains a lot. Only OLED would actually look turned off on such a test. I do realize VA is catching up to Plasma black depth, but don't those two Plasma models have around 20000:1 static contrast at least when calibrated? I have very little high end plasma experience.


It's a thing with Plasma contrast ratios - every site seems to get different results. Depending on who reviewed the ST60 it ranges from ~7500:1 (rtings) to >20.000:1.
But the reviews the picture is from measured 11757:1 on the ST60 and 8513:1 on the F8500 Test1 Test2

Well if an LCD has a nice, dense FALD, blacks can get a lot deeper, but except for the Vizio P-Series those kind of TVs play in the same price range as the OLEDs and it can cause issues like blooming and halos.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> When I turn off the PS4 after I am done, the signal is gone, then the TV is completely black, but I feel that it is a transistion before the next signal, not truly a "Black" screen you know?
> 
> TCO


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedolf*
> 
> Some TVs always turn off the backlight when displaying a fully black screen, that's why all the tests have some sort of reticle or logo on them to bypass that.
> But not even a Plasma will look turned off in a dark room displaying black, our eyes are just too sensitive. Zero blacks, or go home
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's two of the later Plasmas next to each other (F8500 and ST60 I believe). The best VA panels nowadays are not that far behind.
> https://s13.postimg.org/o123vmudh/h6nm.jpg


In my case I was referring to a PC extended desktop with a black wallpaper so it is possibly more trustworthy than the source transferring scenario.
I suppose it could be lowering brightness or turning off backlight if it knows the image is 100% black though.

Do you think if I just have a white mouse on the screen it would be a real test or if the background image was 99% black with some white circle I make in MS Paint to test?
Or perhaps it needs to be viewing an image from the web and not the PC's wallpaper?
I am willing to test this out and report back, I can attempt to snap photos too, but doubt it will show the differences through a photo.

Basically I am just really happy with the picture quality and want to make sure others realize it does a good job with blacks and is worth picking up this display if it fits your budget.

*Edit: I did try a custom background image and yes you can then see a bit of light of light bleeding through, but it is still pretty dark.
Looking straight on has much less noticeable light bleed than viewing from a strong angle.
This does seem to show though that a full black background turned off the edge LEDs and makes sense.
Attached is the quick photo I made if anyone wants to try it.*


4kBlackTest.png 37k .png file


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayan*
> 
> @TheCautiousOne how are you liking your display now? We ended up returning the Sony 850d that we had gotten. Considering the KS8000/8500, or an UH8500 as a replacement.


I too had an X850D for a few days. That was till I learned that BB pushes Sony TV's hard. To make an extremely long story short I returned the 850 and happily bought a 1080p LG 9100 OLED.

Once 4k products and more importantly software make their way into our world to justify itself, I'll bite into some 4k

TCO has the best bang for the buck 4k HDR solution. The KS8000 is amazing and the 49" looks better in person than all of the others in that series. Pixel density perhaps?

With all of that said, the 1080p OLED display I have looks better than the X850d.

I think OLED is incredible and hopefully the 4k solutions become more reasonable in price by this time next year.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> In my case I was referring to a PC extended desktop with a black wallpaper so it is possibly more trustworthy than the source transferring scenario.
> I suppose it could be lowering brightness or turning off backlight if it knows the image is 100% black though.
> 
> Do you think if I just have a white mouse on the screen it would be a real test or if the background image was 99% black with some white circle I make in MS Paint to test?
> Or perhaps it needs to be viewing an image from the web and not the PC's wallpaper?
> I am willing to test this out and report back, I can attempt to snap photos too, but doubt it will show the differences through a photo.
> 
> Basically I am just really happy with the picture quality and want to make sure others realize it does a good job with blacks and is worth picking up this display if it fits your budget.
> 
> *Edit: I did try a custom background image and yes you can then see a bit of light of light bleeding through, but it is still pretty dark.
> Looking straight on has much less noticeable light bleed than viewing from a strong angle.
> This does seem to show though that a full black background turned off the edge LEDs and makes sense.
> Attached is the quick photo I made if anyone wants to try it.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4kBlackTest.png 37k .png file


Excellent follow up and motive. I am awaiting my lady to go to sleep so I can post some shots about the 4:4:4 questions, and 10bit options you asked earlier.









AAAAANNDDDD + Rep









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> I too had an X850D for a few days. That was till I learned that BB pushes Sony TV's hard. To make an extremely long story short I returned the 850 and happily bought a 1080p LG 9100 OLED.
> 
> Once 4k products and more importantly software make their way into our world to justify itself, I'll bite into some 4k
> 
> *TCO has the best bang for the buck 4k HDR solution. The KS8000 is amazing and the 49" looks better in person than all of the others in that series*. Pixel density perhaps?
> 
> Perhaps... Rep??
> 
> With all of that said, the 1080p OLED display I have looks better than the X850d.
> 
> I think OLED is incredible and hopefully the 4k solutions become more reasonable in price by this time next year.


Appreciate the Confidence and reassurance of that statement.








I was very close to snagging the 55" (There was an open box return when I went for 1197 USD I think when I went to first look at the 49". At that point it was the same price as a new 49" TV for an extra 6" of TV but I wasn't going there to buy the tube just yet.

Matter of Fact, IRush warned me of the MUST BUY SONY push at Bestbuy which also led me to writing and doing an extensive test of HDMI Cables after they attempted to try and sell me one for... oh... you know..... 100 USD!!!???!!?!?!

So thank you for that Rush, for Keeping me focused on the Prize (KS8000) and honestly I called BestBuy one morning at work before I was to purchase the TV on amazon for 997 USD and tried to get them to match the price.... Best Buy was selling the Tube for 1197 USD and I tried.... I tried to keep my money local... they Didn't want to honor the price since it was not specifically Amazon, but Electronics Express ( A Sub vendor in affiliation with Amazon) so it ended up saving me over 350$ [No Taxes or Shipping]



TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I Will do a series of Test. I am running SLI 980Sc in the Rig. I have attempted to run all 3 screens at the same time. It appears I have lost my Seethrough Green on the Taskbars and whatnot, and windows has Defaulted to the thick sky blue colour instead, but here are the Results.

This is all 3 screens at their native resolution.





I have told the Sammy to Run 4:4:4
I do not have the option for 10 bit Colour.
Initiating the 444 doesn't let me change the Output dynamic Range.



This is my Clocks for the 980SC (Both) / Top Card is running at 34c (idle) and bottom card is running 32c Idle


Spoiler: GPU CLOCKS







I am going to take the 444 off and reboot without the 324k and the 2710.

TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ok Here is the TV KS8000

Took Pictures of the TV to show.

This is Choosing the Input as PC mode and the HDMI ports. You can see that I don't have options to mod the picture very much after labeling the HDMI port as "PC"
If you were to label the HDMI port as Blu Ray Player as per Rting.com then you will have more picture options.

Extremely clear picture though with PC mode and vibrant colours.







Here is the TV in Nvidia. I chose RGB and put it to Full Range. Still no option for 10bit



And Back to 444



The GPU Clock Difference.



And me hanging around on Hitman.



Tried a little Tomb Raider also. The Conclusion is that the TV is absolutely gorgeous. I found relative GPU impact and performance from the 324k Crossover and Running the 49" KS8000. Framerates stay relatively the same.

TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

Ill look back into this deeper tomorrow, heading to bed now, but thank you for testing and showing 60hz is what refresh rate it allows. I also had no idea that you need to set it to 444 chroma. Just to clarify, that would be the best choice or display its full potential, correct?

Also i will post tomorrow on the losing of Aero and going to a more classic look in windows, but it has to do with having wider than 8140 pixels or some number close to that which is a limitation of windows 7. I finally dug up this info when i was thinking mine was acting funny, but have since learned why and made an adjustment to get by.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Ill look back into this deeper tomorrow, heading to bed now, but thank you for testing and showing 60hz is what refresh rate it allows. I also had no idea that you need to set it to 444 chroma. Just to clarify, that would be the best choice or display its full potential, correct?
> 
> Also i will post tomorrow on the losing of Aero and going to a more classic look in windows, but it has to do with having wider than 8140 pixels or some number close to that which is a limitation of windows 7. I finally dug up this info when i was thinking mine was acting funny, but have since learned why and made an adjustment to get by.


444 chroma from what I hear is the optimal setting, in terms of a tv. Your reasoning of losing the aero theme makes sense.

TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

Here is my follow up on the Aero deal with Win7.

8192 is the max amount of pixels (wide or tall) that Windows 7 can run without issue so you need to adjust your display locations to fit these parameters or just have less monitors connected to avoid it. Here is a link to a short Microsoft write-up that covers this.

This is how i configured my display setup in windows to avoid the 8192 pixel limit:

It's a bit awkward to get used to, but worth it for the normal performance of Windows.


----------



## Xiorath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 444 chroma from what I hear is the optimal setting, in terms of a tv. Your reasoning of losing the aero theme makes sense.
> 
> TCO


Damn is it? I've been running Full RGB for weeks now o_o


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xiorath*
> 
> Damn is it? I've been running Full RGB for weeks now o_o


Check it out.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/1381724-official-4-4-4-chroma-subsampling-thread.html

TCO


----------



## 176355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ok Here is the TV KS8000
> 
> Tried a little Tomb Raider also. The Conclusion is that the TV is absolutely gorgeous. I found relative GPU impact and performance from the 324k Crossover and Running the 49" KS8000. Framerates stay relatively the same.
> 
> TCO


Did you notice any input lag at all playing Tomb Raider or Hitman, I think my biggest worry would be noticing the mouse lagging on the desktop or in games. Thanks!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BearonicMan*
> 
> Did you notice any input lag at all playing Tomb Raider or Hitman, I think my biggest worry would be noticing the mouse lagging on the desktop or in games. Thanks!


I played the part of tomb raider that was closer to the end of the game. And I use a 360 wired Controller. I noticed no lag whatsover. The game looked specatular also. Fluid, I was playing on High settings (Since Very High Needs more Vram) and was astounded on how good it ran..

TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

I may have to see how long my Xbox for Windows controller wire is and try a game on the TV even though it wasn't my plan for it.
I doubt it will reach my couch, but I can hopefully sit in my computer chair 6+ feet from the TV.

I'd likely due something like Grid Autosport for ease, but I also will likely have a bad first experience because I still have the TV only at 30 Hz, need to dig in and see which part is preventing me from connecting as 60Hz.

Is there a simple way in games to tell it which screen to play on when you don't want your normal main display?
I have a feeling it will be different for each game, but I'd rather just tell it to play off my 3rd screen as opposed to setting the TV as the main display and having things shift around.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I may have to see how long my Xbox for Windows controller wire is and try a game on the TV even though it wasn't my plan for it.
> I doubt it will reach my couch, but I can hopefully sit in my computer chair 6+ feet from the TV.
> 
> I'd likely due something like Grid Autosport for ease, but I also will likely have a bad first experience because I still have the TV only at 30 Hz, need to dig in and see which part is preventing me from connecting as 60Hz.
> 
> Is there a simple way in games to tell it which screen to play on when you don't want your normal main display?
> I have a feeling it will be different for each game, but I'd rather just tell it to play off my 3rd screen as opposed to setting the TV as the main display and having things shift around.


Some games have an option (in Game) to choose what screen you are playing on, not all of them have the option though.

The TV at 30hz is bothering me though, I still don't understand where something is amiss on your side??

TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Some games have an option (in Game) to choose what screen you are playing on, not all of them have the option though.
> 
> The TV at 30hz is bothering me though, I still don't understand where something is amiss on your side??
> 
> TCO


I haven't checked on things yet, but it is either one of my HDMI cables is older and NOT high speed or my receiver doesn't actually support HDMI 2.0, but instead is 1.4.
Since it has been very tough to find anything on my receivers HDMI protocol, I previously messaged Onkyo and they said it should be good for HDMI 2.0 with 4:4:4 etc, but I have since asked them to check again for me and if possible show me a source of the HDMI protocol. I haven't heard back yet, but today is only the second business day.

Pretty much i just need to take the time to connect a cable from the GPU directly to the OneConnect box to rule out the receiver and then can test various cables if I need to prove all are High Speed. I was hoping to avoid this though since it likely will mess up the way it is set up or organized and I finally have things seeming to work like I want them to.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I haven't checked on things yet, but it is either one of my HDMI cables is older and NOT high speed or my receiver doesn't actually support HDMI 2.0, but instead is 1.4.
> Since it has been very tough to find anything on my receivers HDMI protocol, I previously messaged Onkyo and they said it should be good for HDMI 2.0 with 4:4:4 etc, but I have since asked them to check again for me and if possible show me a source of the HDMI protocol. I haven't heard back yet, but today is only the second business day.
> 
> Pretty much i just need to take the time to connect a cable from the *GPU directly to the OneConnect box* to rule out the receiver and then can test various cables if I need to prove all are High Speed. I was hoping to avoid this though since it likely will mess up the way it is set up or organized and I finally have things seeming to work like I want them to.


So much This.

TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I have noticed, that when watching HBO Go I do get an Image stutter that is from HBO go, Not the TV. I switched after the show to Netflix, and absolutely no stutter. Very odd









TCO


----------



## Xiorath

i get stutters on HBO Go and FXNow as well as youtube. Netflix seems to be fine though. Is it a flash player issue?
What browser are you using?


----------



## Xiorath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I may have to see how long my Xbox for Windows controller wire is and try a game on the TV even though it wasn't my plan for it.
> I doubt it will reach my couch, but I can hopefully sit in my computer chair 6+ feet from the TV.
> 
> I'd likely due something like Grid Autosport for ease, but I also will likely have a bad first experience because I still have the TV only at 30 Hz, need to dig in and see which part is preventing me from connecting as 60Hz.
> 
> Is there a simple way in games to tell it which screen to play on when you don't want your normal main display?
> I have a feeling it will be different for each game, but I'd rather just tell it to play off my 3rd screen as opposed to setting the TV as the main display and having things shift around.


Are you using an older HDMI cable? that might be the suspect.
My problem was the video card. When I upgraded to the GTX 1080 the 30hz limit went away. From your signature specs I see that definitely isn't the issue.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xiorath*
> 
> Are you using an older HDMI cable? that might be the suspect.
> My problem was the video card. When I upgraded to the GTX 1080 the 30hz limit went away. From your signature specs I see that definitely isn't the issue.


It is either one of my HDMi cables or my receiver that is limiting me, I just haven't spent the time to figure out which one it is yet.

By the way TCO, did you mention at one point that you TV will actually say something like "HDR Content Enabled" or similar?
I purposely played a netflix HDR movie last night and I never get any type of display pop up for anything.
I dont think I even get them when switching inputs, but would have to look closer to verify that.

There isn't a "display" button or similar to use to pull up the resolution and what not on the fly is there?

So far I have ran 100% of my setups in HDR+ mode since it seems to make the most sense to use.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> It is either one of my HDMi cables or my receiver that is limiting me, I just haven't spent the time to figure out which one it is yet.
> 
> By the way TCO, did you mention at one point that you TV will actually say something like "HDR Content Enabled" or similar?
> I purposely played a netflix HDR movie last night and I never get any type of display pop up for anything.
> I dont think I even get them when switching inputs, but would have to look closer to verify that.
> 
> There isn't a "display" button or similar to use to pull up the resolution and what not on the fly is there?
> 
> So far I have ran 100% of my setups in HDR+ mode since it seems to make the most sense to use.


Rtings advises not to use hdr + as it oversaturates the picture and is not true hdr. Netflix will not notify you when true Hdr is enabled. In the op I have the link to the review by rtings.com, please go through the questions at the bottom of that review to answer more of your questions in detail. I am on mobile at the moment else I would easily paste a picture of your needed answer here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xiorath*
> 
> i get stutters on HBO Go and FXNow as well as youtube. Netflix seems to be fine though. Is it a flash player issue?
> What browser are you using?


Playing through the ps4.

TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Rtings advises not to use hdr + as it oversaturates the picture and is not true hdr. Netflix will not notify you when true Hdr is enabled. In the op I have the link to the review by rtings.com, please go through the questions at the bottom of that review to answer more of your questions in detail. I am on mobile at the moment else I would easily paste a picture of your needed answer here.
> 
> TCO


Wow there are a TON of questions at the end, i think i skipped over them when i read through their review in the past.
I skimmed them now and read ones that interested me. I did find 2 referring to HDR+, including the one where they suggest to not use it.

I will have to play with it myself and decide what I like, but I was thinking it would be worth it since attempted or TV created HDR sounds better to me than a regular picture.
So far things look pretty good with it on. I have not played with colors, saturation, brightness, etc since I am letting it get a fair amount of hours in first, but I will eventually.
There has been a time or two where the screen went into a bright scene or mostly white screen and it made me blink as if I was looking into the sun or something.
Pretty crazy how bright it can get!

Have you decided to not use HDR+?
I recall you saying you had that picture mode turned on except for the one Game mode setting.
I am curious to hear if you have since swapped back to a custom setup and will only view HDR from legit HDR sources as opposed to the "Fake HDR" for other content.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Wow there are a TON of questions at the end, i think i skipped over them when i read through their review in the past.
> I skimmed them now and read ones that interested me. I did find 2 referring to HDR+, including the one where they suggest to not use it.
> 
> I will have to play with it myself and decide what I like, but I was thinking it would be worth it since attempted or TV created HDR sounds better to me than a regular picture.
> So far things look pretty good with it on. I have not played with colors, saturation, brightness, etc since I am letting it get a fair amount of hours in first, but I will eventually.
> There has been a time or two where the screen went into a bright scene or mostly white screen and it made me blink as if I was looking into the sun or something.
> Pretty crazy how bright it can get!
> 
> Have you decided to not use HDR+?
> I recall you saying you had that picture mode turned on except for the one Game mode setting.
> I am curious to hear if you have since swapped back to a custom setup and will only view HDR from legit HDR sources as opposed to the "Fake HDR" for other content.


The tv will get very bright, I completely agree. I do not use HDR+ anymore. I have been switching in between dynamic, standard, normal. I switched off the auto dimmer and have told the tv not to turn on my ps4 when I boot the tube up. On every tv mode setting, I have the auto motion option to custom and both sliders down to 0 for judder and I forget that other option that is in there.

I wil be getting Battlefield 1 next week on tues so I will switch to game mode and report on the responsiveness after a good 10-24 gaming beinge









TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

Im going to have to keep comparing the picture options and it likely varies by the source or show because originally i thought the hdr+ looked great and movie setting was also decent with warm2 color, but while looking at a random OTA channel i found that both of those added like a cloudiness or yellow film over everything.

I am now back to trying a standard picture and will have to test it tomorrow on netflix or hulu content. I also make sure eco is off and cant ever see a time i would actually want it, but i am also a fan of brighter screens.

I was hoping to dial in one picture setting to use for everything, but i may have to change depending on what i am watching, at least its pretty easy to do.

I preordered the standard BF1 so ill be on there on friday, but not playing on the tv.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Im going to have to keep comparing the picture options and it likely varies by the source or show because originally i thought the *hdr+* looked great and movie setting was also decent with warm2 color, but while looking at a random OTA channel i found that both of those added like a *cloudiness or yellow film* over everything.
> 
> I am now back to trying a standard picture and will have to test it tomorrow on netflix or hulu content. I also make sure eco is off and cant ever see a time i would actually want it, but i am also a fan of brighter screens.
> 
> I was hoping to dial in one picture setting to use for everything, but i may have to change depending on what i am watching, at least its pretty easy to do.
> 
> I preordered the standard BF1 so ill be on there on friday, but not playing on the tv.


I agree here.

TCO


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I agree here.
> 
> TCO


Man,it seems like one way or another,TCO, i always come across you. lol. I still am opened to purchase the crossover, but i went ahead and bought the Sony XBR43x800d and i went thru 4x of those due to horrendous black vertical banding, although the picture was great and all, but those bars were driving me insane knowing they were there!

So i been having my eyes on this one and i dont think my eyes will come off or go to another display,although i have looked into ultrawide for some reason but im leaning towards this specific one and size and its calling me. Thoughts?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Man,it seems like one way or another,TCO, i always come across you. lol. I still am opened to purchase the crossover, but i went ahead and bought the Sony XBR43x800d and i went thru 4x of those due to horrendous black vertical banding, although the picture was great and all, but those bars were driving me insane knowing they were there!
> 
> So i been having my eyes on this one and i dont think my eyes will come off or go to another display,although i have looked into ultrawide for some reason but im leaning towards this specific one and size and its calling me. *Thoughts*?


That's because I am sure you are like myself, conservative with money, but would like the most bang for your buck right?

Both display threads that you have found me in, I have purchased, and I regret nothing of either. That should tell you something.









TCO


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That's because I am sure you are like myself, conservative with money, but would like the most bang for your buck right?
> 
> Both display threads that you have found me in, I have purchased, and I regret nothing of either. That should tell you something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Precisely, i am just like that. Its scary you knew that lol. But none the less tho,this tv has caught my attention i just cant seem to find it "cheap" anywhere!! also,i was going to ak, have you noticed any banding issues? if you go on youtube and type in vertical banding test, that should help you out spotting them


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Precisely, i am just like that. Its scary you knew that lol. But none the less tho,this tv has caught my attention i just cant seem to find it "cheap" anywhere!! also,i was going to ak, have you noticed any banding issues? if you go on youtube and type in vertical banding test, that should help you out spotting them


I've not done the test, but have no reason to try it as nothing about the TV has made me wonder about the quality of the picture.

TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

Decided to take the time to hook my PC to the OneConnect Box and sure enough I get 60Hz as an option now.

I am ticked off that the Onkyo support guy likely misinformed me about my receiver supporting HDMI 2.0, 4:4:4, and 60 Hz.
I still haven't heard back since I requested a follow up from them, but just put in another reply on my thread asking for an explanation.
Best case scenario they will tell me a specific input I need to use or something to get it working and worst case is that my receiver is 1 model too old, is only HDMI 1.4, and I was fed bad information before buying this TV.

I suppose at least I know I can have it connected at 60Hz in some fashion now so it isn't a total loss, but still annoying.

*Edit: Forgot to add that I now need to see if there is a way for my TV to forget the old source connection. It still wants to display my old PC connection as an option which I have since forced the name back to "HDMI 4" so I wouldn't get the 2 PC names confused. If you know of a way to clear that up it would be appreciated, I don't see a delete and don't really want to try some full TV reset.*

**Edit2: Scratch that, I found a way through doing a new Universal Remote setup, I think all is well now for inputs.**

***Edit3: Why not go for a third edit... I will tinker with it some more later, but I am unable to set my TV into GAME Mode when it is connected to the PC. Game and HDR+ are greyed out and I can only choose to turn Sports Mode on/off. I did try this with both RGB mode and YCbCr444, but neither made a difference. Are you able to use Game Mode for the PC input?***


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Decided to take the time to hook my PC to the OneConnect Box and sure enough I get 60Hz as an option now.
> 
> I am ticked off that the Onkyo support guy likely misinformed me about my receiver supporting HDMI 2.0, 4:4:4, and 60 Hz.
> I still haven't heard back since I requested a follow up from them, but just put in another reply on my thread asking for an explanation.
> Best case scenario they will tell me a specific input I need to use or something to get it working and worst case is that my receiver is 1 model too old, is only HDMI 1.4, and I was fed bad information before buying this TV.
> 
> I suppose at least I know I can have it connected at 60Hz in some fashion now so it isn't a total loss, but still annoying.
> 
> *Edit: Forgot to add that I now need to see if there is a way for my TV to forget the old source connection. It still wants to display my old PC connection as an option which I have since forced the name back to "HDMI 4" so I wouldn't get the 2 PC names confused. If you know of a way to clear that up it would be appreciated, I don't see a delete and don't really want to try some full TV reset.*
> 
> **Edit2: Scratch that, I found a way through doing a new Universal Remote setup, I think all is well now for inputs.**
> 
> ***Edit3: Why not go for a third edit... I will tinker with it some more later, but I am unable to set my TV into GAME Mode when it is connected to the PC. Game and HDR+ are greyed out and I can only choose to turn Sports Mode on/off. I did try this with both RGB mode and YCbCr444, but neither made a difference. *Are you able to use Game Mode for the PC input?****


Glad to hear of that the possiblity of 60hz was resolved by bypassing the receiver.

In Designated PC mode Game mode is not possible, but the Lag in ms is 33 which isn't bad. You would have to switch the input (Even though you are hooked up to the pc) to another type of player. Like Blu Ray or whatnot, in which then, game mode would be available.

TCO


----------



## s1rrah

I've had a 4K Samsung JS9000 (48") for about six months and really dig it ... fits a 13'x13' room *perfect* ...

...



...

Here's my thoughts, overall:

1. With 1080p content (Blu ray/Cable content/etc.) ... it looks *really* decent. But being honest? And just regarding sharpness and clarity? I still think that native 1080p content looks better on a quality 1080p television than it does upsampled on my 4K Samsung. I knew this when I bought it, though and it still looks damn good with 1080p. That said, the JS9000's colors and saturation still PWN any 1080p TV I've seen with 1080p content. Just inky blacks and ridiculous contrast....

2. With 4K content, it's a whole other story. It's chill bump inducing in it's clarity with 4K content, especially the many Sony (and others) "demo 4K" files floating around out there. And the above mentioned color and contrast improvement goes through the roof. HDR is freakishly gorgeous. I watch Netflix 4K content all the time and it too is freakishly good, but not as good as 4K Blu Rays or the demo content files I have. I've yet to try a properly produced 4K Blu Ray (I own Revenant on 4K Blu Ray) as I don't want to drop the ridiculous coin on a Samsung 4K player, which, though prices are falling ... still runs about $300. Can't wait to see it, though as from what I've read, it's stupid good.

3. As a computer desktop monitor, in 4K resolution? It's really good but super laggy unless you enable game mode, which really kills the colors. Otherwise, it's super sharp and looks fantastic for desktop use. I just can't deal with the lag.

4. As a computer gaming monitor? Again, it looks fantastic but is just way to laggy. Even with game mode enabled, it's still far too laggy for me to enjoy (I will say that enabling "game mode" seriously improves the lag problem). But all that aside? I bought the thing for TV/Movie watching and so no big deal. My 27" Acer XB270HU 1440p G Sync IPS just DESTROYS it in regards to gaming and I couldn't game on the TV for any length of time, short of being a novelty. After playing 120+ FPS on the 1440p Acer IPS/G Sync? It's going to take something *really* good to get me away from the Acer (I happened to get a Unicorn Panel(tm) and can't imagine gaming on anything else).

5. Otherwise? Some finer points? The TV plays my MKV/MP4 movie collection flawlessly. I can send files to the TV from my computer or simply put them on a USB drive and plug it in to the "quick connect" box. This was like a *revelation* to me when I discovered it. Previously, I had all my MKV/MP4 files stored on optical media and would simply play them via VLC Player on my computer monitor. These same files (mostly ripped blu rays) look INSANELY good on the JS9K TV. Seriously, when I first discovered how "smart" the TV was and that it could play all those files natively? WellI pee'd myself just a little bit as I have a HUGE digital file collection.

The network connectivity is also rad. Having Netflix, Amazon and other video streaming service accounts that I subscribe too, all accessible via the TV's operating system/Apps ... again, a revelation.

...

I'm most likely going to buy a proper 4K blu ray player here pretty soon, just to test a few discs ... I'll most likely return it until the come down to about 150 dollars ...

But otherwise, the 4K TV has been a blast to play with ...










BTW: I have a bunch of fairly short (3 minutes to 5 minutes) 4K demo files from LG and Sony on my google drive if anybody wants to try them on their screens ... just PM me and I'll send you a download link ...


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1rrah*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I've had a 4K Samsung JS9000 (48") for about six months and really dig it ... fits a 13'x13' room *perfect* ...
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Here's my thoughts, overall:
> 
> 1. With 1080p content (Blu ray/Cable content/etc.) ... it looks *really* decent. But being honest? And just regarding sharpness and clarity? I still think that native 1080p content looks better on a quality 1080p television than it does upsampled on my 4K Samsung. I knew this when I bought it, though and it still looks damn good with 1080p. That said, the JS9000's colors and saturation still PWN any 1080p TV I've seen with 1080p content. Just inky blacks and ridiculous contrast....
> 
> 2. With 4K content, it's a whole other story. It's chill bump inducing in it's clarity with 4K content, especially the many Sony (and others) "demo 4K" files floating around out there. And the above mentioned color and contrast improvement goes through the roof. HDR is freakishly gorgeous. I watch Netflix 4K content all the time and it too is freakishly good, but not as good as 4K Blu Rays or the demo content files I have. I've yet to try a properly produced 4K Blu Ray (I own Revenant on 4K Blu Ray) as I don't want to drop the ridiculous coin on a Samsung 4K player, which, though prices are falling ... still runs about $300. Can't wait to see it, though as from what I've read, it's stupid good.
> 
> 3. As a computer desktop monitor, in 4K resolution? It's really good but super laggy unless you enable game mode, which really kills the colors. Otherwise, it's super sharp and looks fantastic for desktop use. I just can't deal with the lag.
> 
> 4. As a computer gaming monitor? Again, it looks fantastic but is just way to laggy. Even with game mode enabled, it's still far too laggy for me to enjoy (I will say that enabling "game mode" seriously improves the lag problem). But all that aside? I bought the thing for TV/Movie watching and so no big deal. My 27" Acer XB270HU 1440p G Sync IPS just DESTROYS it in regards to gaming and I couldn't game on the TV for any length of time, short of being a novelty. After playing 120+ FPS on the 1440p Acer IPS/G Sync? It's going to take something *really* good to get me away from the Acer (I happened to get a Unicorn Panel(tm) and can't imagine gaming on anything else).
> 
> 5. Otherwise? Some finer points? The TV plays my MKV/MP4 movie collection flawlessly. I can send files to the TV from my computer or simply put them on a USB drive and plug it in to the "quick connect" box. This was like a *revelation* to me when I discovered it. Previously, I had all my MKV/MP4 files stored on optical media and would simply play them via VLC Player on my computer monitor. These same files (mostly ripped blu rays) look INSANELY good on the JS9K TV. Seriously, when I first discovered how "smart" the TV was and that it could play all those files natively? WellI pee'd myself just a little bit as I have a HUGE digital file collection.
> 
> The network connectivity is also rad. Having Netflix, Amazon and other video streaming service accounts that I subscribe too, all accessible via the TV's operating system/Apps ... again, a revelation.
> 
> ...
> 
> I'm most likely going to buy a proper 4K blu ray player here pretty soon, just to test a few discs ... I'll most likely return it until the come down to about 150 dollars ...
> 
> But otherwise, the 4K TV has been a blast to play with ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW: I have a bunch of fairly short (3 minutes to 5 minutes) 4K demo files from LG and Sony on my google drive if anybody wants to try them on their screens ... just PM me and I'll send you a download link ...


Is yours a curved model or is it just the picture angle that I am seeing?

I too am not in any rush to get a true 4K blu-ray player, but honestly if you were in the market currently for one I would just look into spending the same (or less) money on an Xbox One S which supports 4K blu-rays.
I haven't read up to be sure they look just as good, but for that amount of money I'd rather also have my 4K player double as a game system even though I haven't played on a console in a long time.
Once you own the player, you then still have to dish out the $30+ for a UHD blu-ray disc unless they tend to go on sale their first week or around holidays.
Maybe Black Friday 2017 will have decent prices on a 4k blu-ray player.

Are any of your demo videos also HDR samples or just good 4K content?

I haven't jumped into searching YouTube yet, but does 4K YouTube look decent or is it still compressed a fair amount?

By the way, I left my TV on while I ran out to the store for 10 minutes tonight and happened to look towards my windows from outside and my whole room was lit up as if I had a main set of lights on!
It made me laugh on how bright this thing gets and I definitely squeezed in the largest size I could fit without wall mounting with my 65" model.


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Is yours a curved model or is it just the picture angle that I am seeing?
> 
> Are any of your demo videos also HDR samples or just good 4K content?
> 
> I haven't jumped into searching YouTube yet, but does 4K YouTube look decent or is it still compressed a fair amount?
> 
> By the way, I left my TV on while I ran out to the store for 10 minutes tonight and happened to look towards my windows from outside and my whole room was lit up as if I had a main set of lights on!
> It made me laugh on how bright this thing gets and I definitely squeezed in the largest size I could fit without wall mounting with my 65" model.


... yes, my JS9000 is a curved model. Do I think the curve enhances the viewing experience? On my 48" JS9000, .. sitting six feet away from me? No .. .not really. On my father's 65" JS9000 (in the living room) sitting six feet from me? Yes, definitely. Next time I buy a TV, though ... I won't shop for a curved TV specifically as I think both curved and flat look equally good. If your sitting close enough to a truly large, curved TV, then it genuinely does improve "immersion" ... but it's not that big of a selling point to me.

I'm not sure if the demo videos I have include HDR content or not ... there just a bunch of LG and Sony reels, the sort you see playing in stores. I will say this, though ... the demo files I have look PHENOMENALLY good ... far better than YouTube or Netflix 4K content by far; they have that "lord have mercy the detail!" sort of effect that I'm sure everyone has seen ... the demos are mostly just fly overs of cities and downtown night shots of Tokyo and that sort of thing ... also lots of landscape, nature stuff ... just visual candy ... really great way to see just how capable the 4K TV's are cause you just won't get it with 1080p content.

And yes. Youtube 4K content is super good. Far better than typical blu ray... you should definitely explore some of it. If you can hook in to YouTube directly from your TV then for sure explore the content there. Some is better than others. This one from Sony is particularly good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcJtL7QggTI

...


----------



## Xiorath

How do I know if my UN55KS8000 is picking up HDR in Battlefield 1 and Shadow Warrior 2?
Also, How come youtube and netflix TV app content look way better than using my PC? is there any fix for this? I'm running it in non PC mode(blu ray) I'm also experiencing mouse lag when I play any sort of video such as youtube








color settings are Chroma 4:4:4 in Nivida Control Settings and using Standard

Standard Mode
Backlight 20
Brightness 50
Contrast 96
Sharpness 10
Color 50
Tint G50 R50
Auto Motion Plus Blur reduction 2 Judder reduction 2 led clear motion off
Smart LED High
HDMI UHD Color On
HDMI Black Level Normal
Dynamic Contrast Medium
ColorTone Warm1
White Balance Default
Gamma 0
ColorSpace Native


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xiorath*
> 
> How do I know if my UN55KS8000 is picking up HDR in Battlefield 1 and Shadow Warrior 2?
> Also, How come youtube and netflix TV app content look way better than using my PC? is there any fix for this? I'm running it in non PC mode(blu ray) I'm also experiencing mouse lag when I play any sort of video such as youtube
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> color settings are Chroma 4:4:4 in Nivida Control Settings and using Standard
> 
> Standard Mode
> Backlight 20
> Brightness 50
> Contrast 96
> Sharpness 10
> Color 50
> Tint G50 R50
> Auto Motion Plus Blur reduction 2 Judder reduction 2 led clear motion off
> Smart LED High
> HDMI UHD Color On
> HDMI Black Level Normal
> Dynamic Contrast Medium
> ColorTone Warm1
> White Balance Default
> Gamma 0
> ColorSpace Native


Doesn't the software have to support HDR in order for the hardware to display it?


----------



## Xiorath

Shadow Warrior 2 has an option for HDR and from what I read Battlefield 1 supports HDR as well.
theyre both the first two HDR Ready games.


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xiorath*
> 
> Shadow Warrior 2 has an option for HDR and from what I read Battlefield 1 supports HDR as well.
> theyre both the first two HDR Ready games.


OMG that would be so awesome it true! As an Xbox 1 s owner I tend to keep my ears peeled regarding HDR and I didn't hear about this. Looks like I may have dropped the ball lol.


----------



## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xiorath*
> 
> Shadow Warrior 2 has an option for HDR and from what I read Battlefield 1 supports HDR as well.
> theyre both the first two HDR Ready games.


There are no games,not even media players that support HDR yet on PC. Most likely Microsoft needs to do something in the OS side to enable it.


----------



## Xiorath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> There are no games,not even media players that support HDR yet on PC. Most likely Microsoft needs to do something in the OS side to enable it.


http://techreport.com/news/30805/shadow-warrior-2-puts-multi-res-shading-and-hdr-to-good-use
https://twitter.com/shieldsjames/status/775341047635292160


----------



## TheCautiousOne

My boy at work had his 65" Ks8000 wall mounted. Will try to answer questions monday. On mobile atm.



TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xiorath*
> 
> ... How come youtube and netflix TV app content look way better than using my PC? is there any fix for this? ...


It is my understanding that the TV app is the only way to get 4k Netflix. Internet Explorer and Edge can get up to 1080p and Chrome/Firefox only get 720p.
In regards to YouTube, I am not sure if this is the same thing, but if it isn't too much trouble for you, I'd suggest to just use the native app for anything you can.


----------



## kayan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xiorath*
> 
> Shadow Warrior 2 has an option for HDR and from what I read Battlefield 1 supports HDR as well.
> theyre both the first two HDR Ready games.


I'm not sure about the PC port, but Gears 4 on Xbox one S was technically the first... However, all 3 within a few weeks of each other.


----------



## Xiorath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> It is my understanding that the TV app is the only way to get 4k Netflix. Internet Explorer and Edge can get up to 1080p and Chrome/Firefox only get 720p.
> In regards to YouTube, I am not sure if this is the same thing, but if it isn't too much trouble for you, I'd suggest to just use the native app for anything you can.


Thats a damn shame. Hopefully sometime this year or next they will implement 4k options for chrome / firefox. It's not too much of a hassle so I'll be sure to use my apps from now on.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

So! I am almost there. I will be able to play battlefield at 0200 hours Tom morning. I am trying to decide whether to stay up that long, or crash at 2000 hours tonight and wake up super early to play all day tom!

TCO


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So! I am almost there. I will be able to play battlefield at 0200 hours Tom morning. I am trying to decide whether to stay up that long, or crash at 2000 hours tonight and wake up super early to play all day tom!
> 
> TCO


Sleeping is giving in!!


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So! I am almost there. I will be able to play battlefield at 0200 hours Tom morning. I am trying to decide whether to stay up that long, or crash at 2000 hours tonight and wake up super early to play all day tom!
> 
> TCO


its that serious huh? lmao


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1rrah*
> 
> Sleeping is giving in!!


Correction:

Sleep is for the WEAK!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> its that serious huh? lmao


Yes, Yes this is a very serious matter!!









TCO


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Correction:
> 
> Sleep is for the WEAK!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, Yes this is a very serious matter!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO




LOL ..


----------



## mrtbahgs

Ran into my first little issue with the 4K upscaling last night, but got around it in a unique way.

I have the TV connected to my PC as a third monitor and until now, had no trouble streaming something via the web and full screening it on the 4K display.
Last night I wanted to watch the Dodgers/Cubs game and played it from Fox Sports Go or whatever the website is called, but when I hit maximize, it ended up not centering the video feed and was shifted maybe 6 inches to the right. This resulted in having 6 inches of black on the left and a cut off image on the right side of the TV.
I tried in both Firefox and Internet Explorer and both resulted in the same scenario.

This is likely the Fox coding or something that is causing the issue and not the TV since I have had no trouble previously with something like ESPN or other random streaming sites for a few TV shows.

The way I was able to get around this and actually watch the game was that I have a Samsung Galaxy S6 smartphone so I played the game on my phone with the Fox Sports Go app and then used the Smartview feature to let the TV display what my phone sees. This is a pretty sweet and easy to use feature by the way and worth at least testing out if you have a Samsung phone.


----------



## Xiorath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So! I am almost there. I will be able to play battlefield at 0200 hours Tom morning. I am trying to decide whether to stay up that long, or crash at 2000 hours tonight and wake up super early to play all day tom!
> 
> TCO


Battlefield 1 looks GORGEOUS on these screens. Prepare yourself.
I can't wait til they implement HDR in the upcoming updates.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xiorath*
> 
> Battlefield 1 looks GORGEOUS on these screens. Prepare yourself.
> I can't wait til they implement HDR in the upcoming updates.


DON"T TEASE ME!!! I am very excited at this point. I have been so patient all week awaiting the play time.









TCO


----------



## kayan

So the wifey and I decided that we were going to get the ks8500, 55". It's got a great picture. So much more visually pleasing than the Sony we returned (build aesthetics and picture quality), but our set has some very, very bad light bleed in the bottom left. Can see it as a diagonal shining from the bottom left corner up to where the picture starts (at the black bars when watching videos). I'm also sold in 4k media with HDR. What a difference.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> DON"T TEASE ME!!! I am very excited at this point. I have been so patient all week awaiting the play time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


keep us updated,im looking forward to your experience especially on this display! have fun but plz report back.lol


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> keep us updated,im looking forward to your experience especially on this display! have fun but plz report back.lol


Well, I woke up at 3am and started playing. Made sure I was on game mode to reduce the input lag, and have played for about 12 hours so far. The colours are just superb and have no problems with the tube so far!

TCO


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well, I woke up at 3am and started playing. Made sure I was on game mode to reduce the input lag, and have played for about 12 hours so far. The colours are just superb and have no problems with the tube so far!
> 
> TCO


Lol that's dedicated!


----------



## mrtbahgs

Game mode still looked good?
That Rtings review said it screws up the color or something, so there should be some sort of loss for the gain in reduced input lag.
If not noticable, then thats pretty sweet.


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Game mode still looked good?
> That Rtings review said it screws up the color or something, so there should be some sort of loss for the gain in reduced input lag.
> If not noticable, then thats pretty sweet.


Game mode on my Samsung JS9000 *drastically* reduces lag, but coming from a 144hz screen, it's still too bad for me. And yes, it impacts the colors noticeably, creating slightly (not dramatically) more "washed out" look with a little less saturation and what appears to be a palette reduced in certain areas of the color spectrum.

I personally don't game on mine but I did experiment a great deal when I first bought the TV and if your going to game on a TV then definitely use "Game Mode" if it has one.

I've thought about getting a console just for fun and to see if the TV performance was any better with console content than it was with my computer but have yet to do this ...


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well, I woke up at 3am and started playing. Made sure I was on game mode to reduce the input lag, and have played for about 12 hours so far. The colours are just superb and have no problems with the tube so far!
> 
> TCO


"HE'S GOING THE DISTANCE!!!"

lol ...

I might have missed this earlier in the thread but are you playing console or PC?

Otherwise, have fun!


----------



## NightAntilli

I'm interested in buying one of these... The 65" version. And of course I read through the worst reviews on Amazon to see any common issues for this TV model. The ones that seem to be re-occuring issues are;

Internal WiFi of TV not working
Judder/stuttering when watching movies/sports
Motion blur with movies/sports
Judder in game mode

Have any of you experienced this as well?


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NightAntilli*
> 
> I'm interested in buying one of these... The 65" version. And of course I read through the worst reviews on Amazon to see any common issues for this TV model. The ones that seem to be re-occuring issues are;
> 
> Internal WiFi of TV not working
> Judder/stuttering when watching movies/sports
> Motion blur with movies/sports
> Judder in game mode
> 
> Have any of you experienced this as well?


On my JS9000 48"??


Internal WiFi works great. Never a problem
I've noticed no judder with any content I view (blu rays/Netflix/Amazon/Digital Files).
I've noticed no motion blur whatsoever
No judder in game mode
....

The only real "problem" I've found with my JS9000 is slight clouding in the upper right corner. Not too bad but certainly visible if I look for it in dark scenes.

RE: TV's and computer monitors? Just ranting? I mean, how in the world, with todays level of tech, can manufacturers not guarantee a bleed free/cloud free TV and/or monitor? I mean what is really the deal there? My god, we'll probably nail dependable and regular fusion energy for crying out loud and we can't build an affordable, bleed/cloud free panel for the masses? LOL ...

Otherwise, that's the story my my JS9K


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> Lol that's dedicated!


I told yall I was going to do it!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Game mode still looked good?
> That Rtings review said it screws up the color or something, so there should be some sort of loss for the gain in reduced input lag.
> If not noticable, then thats pretty sweet.


Game Mode still Looks Good! You can see a difference in picture quality though once switching over as it isn't as "Crystal clear" as it is in a normal viewing mode. What I will do is play without the game mode on tonight to see how drastic or not drastic I observe the picture quality and lag.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1rrah*
> 
> Game mode on my Samsung JS9000 *drastically* reduces lag, but coming from a 144hz screen, it's still too bad for me. And yes, it impacts the colors noticeably, creating slightly (not dramatically) more "washed out" look with a little less saturation and what appears to be a palette reduced in certain areas of the color spectrum.
> 
> I personally don't game on mine but I did experiment a great deal when I first bought the TV and if your going to game on a TV then definitely use "Game Mode" if it has one.
> 
> I've thought about getting a console just for fun and to see if the TV performance was any better with console content than it was with my computer but have yet to do this ...


+1 on the explanation. That is better than I could have said it!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1rrah*
> 
> "HE'S GOING THE DISTANCE!!!"
> 
> lol ...
> 
> I might have missed this earlier in the thread but are you playing console or PC?
> 
> Otherwise, have fun!


This is on PS4. I am awaiting the release of the PRO so I can play in a "Higher" Resolution with HDR









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NightAntilli*
> 
> I'm interested in buying one of these... The 65" version. And of course I read through the worst reviews on Amazon to see any common issues for this TV model. The ones that seem to be re-occuring issues are;
> 
> Internal WiFi of TV not working
> Judder/stuttering when watching movies/sports
> Motion blur with movies/sports
> Judder in game mode
> 
> Have any of you experienced this as well?


No Judder in Game mode. 100% on that.
Haven't watched sports yet as I do not have cable, nor have I watched a "Disc" based movie yet, just netflix and HBO Go.

HBO Go has stutter and judder, but it is from that Source, not the TV.

Internal Wifi Is cake, not one single problem with it.

TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NightAntilli*
> 
> I'm interested in buying one of these... The 65" version. And of course I read through the worst reviews on Amazon to see any common issues for this TV model. The ones that seem to be re-occuring issues are;
> 
> Internal WiFi of TV not working
> Judder/stuttering when watching movies/sports
> Motion blur with movies/sports
> Judder in game mode
> 
> Have any of you experienced this as well?


I have the 65" and Wifi has not been an issue, but I have had a touch of trouble at times with the built in apps.
Hulu for example has frozen or just not loaded the show at times after coming off of a commercial break and you need to exit and resume the show.
This is not too often, maybe once or twice a week, and only takes a short time to get things working again.
I think Netflix has had an "error occurred" popup a couple times when I initially load it and slide down to find a show and it has to restart itself, again just a short time to get going again.
I think these are an app issue though and not a wifi connection error or something, because it works right away again every time and I've yet had like a network outage or something to make me question the Wifi.

I haven't paid a ton of attention yet, but OTA sports seem to look fine, my signal itself isn't always the greatest though so any issues I do see won't necessarily be at the fault of the TV. I have also streamed sports from my Phone and PC and they look decent as well, again no blur or judder that I personally have noticed or would think is at fault of the TV.

One thing to add though is that maybe I don't see motion issues... I have never experienced the soap opera effect to know what it truly is when people refer to it.
I have seen it briefly explained, but I'd understand it better if I saw the problem for myself.
With that said, I have all the motion stuff on Auto instead of forcing it to 0 to turn then off, so even if some day I do notice an odd SOE I can likely correct it by turning them off.


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> One thing to add though is that maybe I don't see motion issues... I have never experienced the soap opera effect to know what it truly is when people refer to it.
> I have seen it briefly explained, but I'd understand it better if I saw the problem for myself.
> With that said, I have all the motion stuff on Auto instead of forcing it to 0 to turn then off, so even if some day I do notice an odd SOE I can likely correct it by turning them off.


If you turn Motion Smoothing (or whatever it's called) to a definite "On" settting ... you will know doubt see immediately what the SOE looks like ... it's not particularly bothersome to me but with Motion Smoothing set to off, the content on screen looks much more like traditional film...

BTW: here is a SUPER good guide on how to set up the Samsung JS9000 .. and many other Samsung TV's (modern screens in general) as so many share the various settings....

This was invaluable to me when I first got my TV because out of the box it looked really bad ... all the sharpness settings were boosted, and all the other "effects" settings ... and honestly, I couldn't believe how bad the picture looked ... just like a bad photoshop filter had been applied ... regular video/movie content almost looked like smeary "oil paintings" or something ... once I carefully went through this guide, things looked 100% better ... highly recommended read. Not only does the guy recommend settings for the most natural, cinema experience but he discusses each setting in depth; I learned a lot just from reading this:

*JS Series Picture Settings (General Guide)*


----------



## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1rrah*
> 
> RE: TV's and computer monitors? Just ranting? I mean, how in the world, with todays level of tech, can manufacturers not guarantee a bleed free/cloud free TV and/or monitor? I mean what is really the deal there? My god, we'll probably nail dependable and regular fusion energy for crying out loud and we can't build an affordable, bleed/cloud free panel for the masses? LOL ...
> 
> Otherwise, that's the story my my JS9K


It has to do more with Edge lit TV's. You literally have the LED's on the edge of the screen so there will always be some degree of bleeding. You can always get a direct lit TV.


----------



## Dry Bonez

well,just orrdered the 49inch version this morning, question tho, can anyone on here let me know if this tv has screen mirroring?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> well,just orrdered the 49inch version this morning, question tho, can anyone on here let me know if this tv has screen mirroring?


http://support-us.samsung.com/spsn/detail.jsp?ctg_id=201&sub_ctg_id=&live_id=&video_id=4915903180001










EDIT: How much you get the 49" For?

TCO


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> http://support-us.samsung.com/spsn/detail.jsp?ctg_id=201&sub_ctg_id=&live_id=&video_id=4915903180001
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: How much you get the 49" For?
> 
> TCO


1081i got it online on ebay free shipping, there is no way im willing to pay 1200 plus taxes at a store.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> 1081i got it online on ebay free shipping, there is no way im willing to pay 1200 plus taxes at a store.


Did you see the link? It was an instructional video









1081 USD isn't bad. Still Beat you though









TCO


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Did you see the link? It was an instructional video
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1081 USD isn't bad. Still Beat you though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


How kuchndid you get it for then? and where? as for video,idk why it wont show on my tablet


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> How kuchndid you get it for then? and where? as for video,idk why it wont show on my tablet


Yea the video made me run a plugin on chrome, but it worked.

I paid 996 USD with no tax or shipping.

Amazon, through Electronics Express.

TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

If you want to discuss best deals:
If you had a Samsung EPP (employee purchasing portal or something close to that) account you could have gotten the 49" for 975 + tax with free shipping and then also received reward points and possibly cash back offers netting you down to like $800+tax.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> If you want to discuss best deals:
> If you had a Samsung EPP (employee purchasing portal or something close to that) account you could have gotten the 49" for 975 + tax with free shipping and then also received reward points and possibly cash back offers netting you down to like $800+tax.


elaborate! i can still cancel as they have not shipped yet. can i go that route?


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> elaborate! i can still cancel as they have not shipped yet. can i go that route?


I'll send a PM since it involves some outsite sites and info and Im not sure it falls in OCN's TOS to link outside.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Good Write up about LED/LCD vs OLED

http://www.digitaltrends.com/home-theater/oled-vs-led-which-is-the-better-tv-technology/

TCO


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Good Write up about LED/LCD vs OLED
> 
> http://www.digitaltrends.com/home-theater/oled-vs-led-which-is-the-better-tv-technology/
> 
> TCO


OLED still reigns supreme and hits home where it counts for me. It's why a returned the 4k X850d is favor of my current 1080p LG 9100 OLED. But with that said, I find the bang for the buck a clear winner for LED. The display of yours in particular is amazing for $1k.

With that said, the response time of the OLED was clearly noticable as an improvement over the LED. I was playing the Titanfall 2 Beta on both TV's and my ability to react and target enemies using the OLED was very noticeable. This was after setting both to their best "game-ready" abilities. This was amazing to me because the processor in the Sony was supposedly the cream of the crop and apparently offered the lowest latency (according to the BB employees lol)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> OLED still reigns supreme and hits home where it counts for me. It's why a returned the 4k X850d is favor of my current 1080p LG 9100 OLED. But with that said, I find the bang for the buck a clear winner for LED. The display of yours in particular is amazing for $1k.
> 
> With that said, the response time of the OLED was clearly noticable as an improvement over the LED. I was playing the Titanfall 2 Beta on both TV's and my ability to react and target enemies using the OLED was very noticeable. This was after setting both to their best "game-ready" abilities. This was amazing to me because the processor in the Sony was supposedly the cream of the crop and apparently offered the lowest latency (*according to the BB employees lol*)












Lol.

TCO


----------



## Dry Bonez

Hey everyone,i need help setting up my TV, i have my PC paired with a gtx 1080 hooked up to the one box hdmi 2 port and i cant set my Tv to game mode,it is greyed out and says eature unavailable.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Earlier in this thread, TCO said:
Quote:


> In Designated PC mode Game mode is not possible, but the Lag in ms is 33 which isn't bad. You would have to switch the input (Even though you are hooked up to the pc) to another type of player. Like Blu Ray or whatnot, in which then, game mode would be available.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Earlier in this thread, TCO said:


ok awesome! i figured this out on my own without having to see this message after..... but now i have another question, i set my HDMI input to game mode by editing it,which game mode became available, but how in the world do i turn on HDR? I have yet to see a setting to toggle it on and thats what im really interested in seeing.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> ok awesome! i figured this out on my own without having to see this message after..... but now i have another question, i set my HDMI input to game mode by editing it,which game mode became available, but how in the world do i turn on HDR? I have yet to see a setting to toggle it on and thats what im really interested in seeing.


The only other thing to be sure is on is:
Settings > Picture > Expert Settings > HDMI UHD Color
Turn ON for the correct HDMI input

If the source has HDR and everything along the line supports HDR, it should automatically display the HDR content.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Bonez,

You figure it out yet?

TCO


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Bonez,
> 
> You figure it out yet?
> 
> TCO


nope! im just gonna assume HDR activates automatically, which is a bummer because the sony tv i bought a few weekes ago,that i returned to get this one, had the option to toggle hdr on/off. But i give up trying, so i need to find something with hdr


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> nope! im just gonna assume HDR activates automatically, which is a bummer because the sony tv i bought a few weekes ago,that i returned to get this one, had the option to toggle hdr on/off. But i give up trying, so i need to find something with hdr


A source that provides HDR content (DVD, Netflix [Tv app] ) will display HDR content automatically.

Netflix at the moment, has a bug that will not tell you when HDR is being displayed, but the HDR content will change the settings for HDR in the background of the TV.

TCO


----------



## MR-e

Hey all, I'm in for this TV as well! Just placed the order and will hopefully pick up later tonight








Thanks for the thread and Settings guide. I will be storing the TV for a few weeks until we move into our new place. Will look to wall mount it then









PS - I got the 49" in Canada for $1820. Pricing here is crazy compared to USD, you got it for a great price TCO!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> Hey all, I'm in for this TV as well! Just placed the order and will hopefully pick up later tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the thread and Settings guide. I will be storing the TV for a few weeks until we move into our new place. Will look to wall mount it then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS - I got the 49" in Canada for $1820. Pricing here is crazy compared to USD, you got it for a great price TCO!


1820 Canadian Dollars? That is 1359 USD

Glad you picked up the Tube!

TCO


----------



## MR-e

Yes, it's very disappointing what we Canadian's have to pay up here for our electronics. Sometimes I want to pick up and move down South lol!

TCO - Can you please provide me with some info on the "certified" hdmi cable? I'd like to get the best out of this TV as it will need to serve me a good 5 years or more.









Edit - I hope this thing fits in the back of my trunk, don't want to pay the $25 delivery fee


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> Yes, it's very disappointing what we Canadian's have to pay up here for our electronics. Sometimes I want to pick up and move down South lol!
> 
> TCO - Can you please provide me with some info on the "certified" hdmi cable? I'd like to get the best out of this TV as it will need to serve me a good 5 years or more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit - I hope this thing fits in the back of my trunk, don't want to pay the $25 delivery fee


Link to HDMI thread is in my siggy (Because you may not need a new cable, shouldn't I should say) but I would recommend personally a 6 or 10 ft by Monoprice.

Good luck getting the TV home!









TCO


----------



## iRUSH

Just a quick thing to add regarding cables.

When I had 4k it was connected to the Xbox one S. The factory HDMI it comes with is a 2.0 cable. I figured that I would want something better so I picked up the cinnamon HDMI cable. It literally made ZERO improvement in picture quality.

I can't offer much beyond that, but based on that experience I wouldn't go too nuts on higher end cables.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> Just a quick thing to add regarding cables.
> 
> When I had 4k it was connected to the Xbox one S. The factory HDMI it comes with is a 2.0 cable. I figured that I would want something better so I picked up the cinnamon HDMI cable. It literally made ZERO improvement in picture quality.
> 
> I can't offer much beyond that, but based on that experience I wouldn't go too nuts on higher end cables.


The one I linked is 4$ and have tested it at 2160p at 60hz.

TCO


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The one I linked is 4$ and have tested it at 2160p at 60hz.
> 
> TCO


Perfect!!


----------



## MR-e

I made it home boys! I'm now in the KS8000 club









1x (UN49KS8000) Samsung 49" KS8000 Series 4K SUHD 240 Motion Rate LED Smart TV
1x (UBDK8500) Samsung 4K Ultra HD Wi-Fi Curved Blu-Ray Player
1x (HWK650) Samsung 3.1ch 340W Soundbar with Wireless Subwoofer, Wi-Fi, and Bluetooth

Pricey in CAD funds, but well worth it!


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> I made it home boys! I'm now in the KS8000 club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1x (UN49KS8000) Samsung 49" KS8000 Series 4K SUHD 240 Motion Rate LED Smart TV
> 1x (UBDK8500) Samsung 4K Ultra HD Wi-Fi Curved Blu-Ray Player
> 1x (HWK650) Samsung 3.1ch 340W Soundbar with Wireless Subwoofer, Wi-Fi, and Bluetooth
> 
> Pricey in CAD funds, but well worth it!


Congrats my friend!!! man,idk why but i get happy when people buy this tv because it truly is amazing. granted,my wallet is hurting, but it s well worth it!! I got mine on friday and i absolutely love. Though,i will say, it is MASSIVE,atleast for me. I am coming from a 27" 1440p monitor. I am glad you got your stuff,take pics IF possible.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> I made it home boys! I'm now in the KS8000 club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1x (UN49KS8000) Samsung 49" KS8000 Series 4K SUHD 240 Motion Rate LED Smart TV
> 1x (UBDK8500) Samsung 4K Ultra HD Wi-Fi Curved Blu-Ray Player
> 1x (HWK650) Samsung 3.1ch 340W Soundbar with Wireless Subwoofer, Wi-Fi, and Bluetooth
> 
> Pricey in CAD funds, but well worth it!


Congrats on the purchase! Would have loved to get the sound bar as well but I deemed it unnecessary at the time. Might pick it up at a later date.

On another note, I just realized tonight after I got done playing Battlefield that I hadnt switched on game mode in the last 20 or so hours of gameplay.


















Though being disturbed at my forgetfulness, I the difference in lag (113ms outside game mode) made me "warm up" longer and was able to still maintain a positive k/d ratio. I have been on standard mode the past two sessions.

There is most definitely a difference in response time as the gun aiming movement (zeroing an enemy in the iron sight) is the key to the lag.

I am not to big of a man to admit my faults.

TCO


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Congrats on the purchase! Would have loved to get the sound bar as well but I deemed it unnecessary at the time. Might pick it up at a later date.
> 
> On another note, I just realized tonight after I got done playing Battlefield that I hadnt switched on game mode in the last 20 or so hours of gameplay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though being disturbed at my forgetfulness, I the difference in lag (113ms outside game mode) made me "warm up" longer and was able to still maintain a positive k/d ratio. I have been on standard mode the past two sessions.
> 
> There is most definitely a difference in response time as the gun aiming movement (zeroing an enemy in the iron sight) is the key to the lag.
> 
> I am not to big of a man to admit my faults.
> 
> TCO


hey man, i been meaning to ask, i have not found a topic of this yet. But how would one go about cleaning the screen of this tv? I noticed a little dot while browsing the web and attempted to clean it to see if it was dirty or a bad pixel and indeed it was dirty,but it was a bit rough to remove so i used a soft cloth and used my mouth(lol) and now i notice a small cloud,but im sure it will come off, right?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> hey man, i been meaning to ask, i have not found a topic of this yet. But how would one go about cleaning the screen of this tv? I noticed a little dot while browsing the web and attempted to clean it to see if it was dirty or a bad pixel and indeed it was dirty,but it was a bit rough to remove so i used a soft cloth and used my mouth(lol) and now i notice a small cloud,but im sure it will come off, right?


Personally I would recommend microfiber towel and windex.

TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

My TV came with a tiny microfiber cloth I think in the parts bag, did the 49" do the same?

Personally I would avoid Windex or any chemicals if possible because it could add a coating that attracts dust or if not ammonia free may remove the anti glare coating like it does to window tint?

I would at least just initially try a microfiber cloth and breath on the area like people do to glasses and see if that's enough otherwise maybe a slightly damp piece of cloth with pure water and no chemicals. I realize some chemicals claim to be for cleaning monitors and electronics, but I always prefer to use the least possible to prevent odd looking areas on the screen.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> On another note, I just realized tonight after I got done playing Battlefield that I hadnt switched on game mode in the last 20 or so hours of gameplay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> TCO


Did you notice much difference in colors and graphics when finally swapping to game mode?
I assume you are saying the reduced lag makes up for any lesser graphics, but still curious how much is noticeable in the eye candy factor.

I still haven't tried mine yet for a game, likely keep it simple and try Grid Autosport just to see what it looks like, but with BF1 now out I don't think I will get to this any time soon lol.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> My TV came with a tiny microfiber cloth I think in the parts bag, did the 49" do the same?
> 
> Personally I would avoid Windex or any chemicals if possible because it could add a coating that attracts dust or if not ammonia free may remove the anti glare coating like it does to window tint?
> 
> I would at least just initially try a microfiber cloth and breath on the area like people do to glasses and see if that's enough otherwise maybe a slightly damp piece of cloth with pure water and no chemicals. I realize some chemicals claim to be for cleaning monitors and electronics, but I always prefer to use the least possible to prevent odd looking areas on the screen.


I am beyond pissed right now! I work at 12 and im stuck trying to clean this tv,i went and got my microfiber cloth( i bought to wash cars but they are 100% microfiber), and i put a bit of windex and i now see a like a blob and its pissing me off. Please help!!!! i bought this tv online and idk what to do!


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> I am beyond pissed right now! I work at 12 and im stuck trying to clean this tv,i went and got my microfiber cloth( i bought to wash cars but they are 100% microfiber), and i put a bit of windex and i now see a like a blob and its pissing me off. Please help!!!! i bought this tv online and idk what to do!


You can still try a touch of water, ALWAYS apply any chemical or liquid to the towel and not directly to the screen by the way.
If that doesn't work you can try something that claims to be for electronics, one I recall from the past was "Pledge Multi Surface" which shows it to be safe for screens, but again only apply a little and to the cloth itself. Others make true "screen cleaners" and wipes, but I think they are overpriced for a niche market standpoint. It's likely just some form of alcohol that evaporates quickly. I am not sure if this would be fine to use, but perhaps Isopropyl alcohol like you use to clean thermal paste from a CPU would help?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> You can still try a touch of water, ALWAYS apply any chemical or liquid to the towel and not directly to the screen by the way.
> If that doesn't work you can try something that claims to be for electronics, one I recall from the past was "Pledge Multi Surface" which shows it to be safe for screens, but again only apply a little and to the cloth itself. Others make true "screen cleaners" and wipes, but I think they are overpriced for a niche market standpoint. It's likely just some form of alcohol that evaporates quickly. I am not sure if this would be fine to use, but perhaps Isopropyl alcohol like you use to clean thermal paste from a CPU would help?


I will try water right now. i contacted the seller where i got it from to see what can be done! this is really pissing me off and im sure it is not that serious to contact the seller due to the fact it was not a defect whatsoever,it jus so happened this all started when i attempted to clean it using my saliva in sense onto a cloth due to not having anything nearby and that triggered it, then i applied windex this morning Nd it kinda spread! But this can only be seen when light in directed on the area. If water does not help, i will buy a solution that you guys recommend.


----------



## Dry Bonez

water did not help...i applied it to my microfiber cloth. The seller replied saying to give the serial number and he can send a samsung rep to check it out. what do you guuys think? again, this can only be seen while shining a light


----------



## MR-e

The chemical you used reacted to the glossy screen and now has a dull spot where you wiped.

Samsung has stated, "_Never use any type of window cleaner, soap, scouring powder, or any cleanser with solvents such as alcohol, benzene, ammonia, or paint thinner. Never use abrasive pads or paper towels. If you do, you can scratch the screen or strip the anti-glare coating off the screen and cause permanent damage_."
http://www.samsung.com/us/support/answer/ANS00040821/

Sorry bonez, hopefully they can issue a repair for you.









No pics of my setup for a few weeks. They are sitting in a spare room waiting until we move into our new place.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Did you notice much difference in colors and graphics when finally swapping to game mode?
> I assume you are saying the reduced lag makes up for any lesser graphics, but still curious how much is noticeable in the eye candy factor.
> 
> I still haven't tried mine yet for a game, likely keep it simple and try Grid Autosport just to see what it looks like, but with BF1 now out I don't think I will get to this any time soon lol.


I switched back to game mode and definitely an improvement on aiming and k/d ratio. Not really a big difference in colours as the tv looks fantastic!

Sorry to hear about the problem Bonez! Didn't realize that the screen was so sensitive, if mine had gotten dirty I would have used windex out of instinct and would be in the same position.









Hope you can clean it up. Keep us updated!

TCO


----------



## MR-e

It happened to me too, but luckily, it was a monitor I used at work many years back. I learned my lesson with Windex and LCD's the cheap way lol. Now I only use a light spray bottle of water onto the cloth first then gently wipe.


----------



## AngryLobster

The game mode is what really bothers me about this TV. Fighting games for example are unplayable unless set to game mode (KoF) but doing so really hurts image quality. I dunno how to describe it, but it just doesn't look right.

Everything else about this TV is pretty awesome. I'm not sure if it's normal for HDR content to set the back light so high that it's like staring at the sun in a dark room because if that's what HDR entails I'm gonna pass.


----------



## iRUSH

Regards to cleaning I use a microfiber cloth only. No water or chemicals.

It's all I even needed and I'm extremely picky when it comes to a clean screen.

If you're a smoker, well you should be use to a shorter lifespan on electronics. I'm not implying anyone here is.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryLobster*
> 
> ... I'm not sure if it's normal for HDR content to set the back light so high that it's like staring at the sun in a dark room because if that's what HDR entails I'm gonna pass.


I agree at times, especially a mostly white screen during a commercial, it can be pretty blindingly bright, but it also makes me laugh that it gets that bright.
This is on the 65" as well which really does light up the room at those moments.

HDR in general is supposed to widen the "range" (the R in HDR = range) or spectrum of brightness to add detail and clarity that you can't see without it.
I know stores have "sample material" that are supposed to show the difference side by side, but I feel that it is exaggerated and obviously made to their benefit to show the best case scenario, but it should still allow you to get the idea of areas, especially dark zones, that pick up additional detail.

You have various settings you can tweak to meet your own personal preferences.
Obviously the brightness itself, but there is also the amount of drastic change in brightness and maybe one other thing related to this, I don't have it in front of me to rattle off the setting names, but the description provided in the menu should do a decent job.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> water did not help...i applied it to my microfiber cloth. The seller replied saying to give the serial number and he can send a samsung rep to check it out. what do you guuys think? again, this can only be seen while shining a light


Just to give one last update, I did a quick search while waiting for my lunch and read one result that said quite a lot, but as only one source I can't say their info is 100% factual.
They were smart to mention things have changed from the days of thick CRT displays where you got away with using just about anything. Modern displays are much much thinner with varying layers and extra sensitive.

1) Don't use any chemicals at all including alcohol and especially not ammonia.
(I am not sure what is in "LCD Cleaner" if not an alcohol based liquid so now I am confused if that stuff is safe for anything)
2) To stress again, never apply any liquid directly to the screen and always ONLY use a microfiber cloth.
3) Clean when the screen is turned off and also cooled down.
4) Ideally just try a dry microfiber cloth, if that does work, try a bit of distilled water on the cloth ($1 or so at the store)
5) If you still need something stronger like if a kid gets food on the screen it mentioned 50% water and 50% white vinegar on the cloth.

At this point I would wait until the rep comes if they are willing to do so at no charge and can be semi-convenient for you.

*Edit: This also has me wondering now. For my cell phone I always just use a sunglass cleaner with a microfiber cloth to get finger prints and what not off every now and then. So either that cleaner is pretty safe to use (and maybe OK on monitors too?) or I am risking my phone's screen over time.*


----------



## AngryLobster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I agree at times, especially a mostly white screen during a commercial, it can be pretty blindingly bright, but it also makes me laugh that it gets that bright.
> This is on the 65" as well which really does light up the room at those moments.
> 
> HDR in general is supposed to widen the "range" (the R in HDR = range) or spectrum of brightness to add detail and clarity that you can't see without it.
> I know stores have "sample material" that are supposed to show the difference side by side, but I feel that it is exaggerated and obviously made to their benefit to show the best case scenario, but it should still allow you to get the idea of areas, especially dark zones, that pick up additional detail.
> 
> You have various settings you can tweak to meet your own personal preferences.
> Obviously the brightness itself, but there is also the amount of drastic change in brightness and maybe one other thing related to this, I don't have it in front of me to rattle off the setting names, but the description provided in the menu should do a decent job.


Yeah but doesn't dropping back light or brightness when the TV goes into Solar Flare mode once HDR is detected defeat the purpose of HDR? I thought the point is achieving 1000nits brightness to view real HDR but I underestimated just how uncomfortable it is.

I dunno how I feel about it right now but I'll experiment and see.


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryLobster*
> 
> Yeah but doesn't dropping back light or brightness when the TV goes into Solar Flare mode once HDR is detected defeat the purpose of HDR? I thought the point is achieving 1000nits brightness to view real HDR but I underestimated just how uncomfortable it is.
> 
> I dunno how I feel about it right now but I'll experiment and see.


I haven't really noticed the "bright like the sun" effect ... as I keep my backlight setting on something fairly appropriate for a mostly dark room ... the range on my Samsung JS9000 is 1 thru 20 on the backlight and I keep it around 14...

Otherwise, I don't think HDR content emphasizes the bright scenes inordinately ... more so I think it just dramatically improves the *range* of light to dark content ... or what I perceive as the "depth" of the contrasting colors... and you won't see true HDR capability unless you are positive your content features HDR ... I don't think that all 4K resolution content necessarily includes HDR capabilities but I'm new to all this so...

I've only really seen HDR at work when watching Netflix as I think this is one of the only decent sources for HDR content ... but watching their 4K sitcoms makes it pretty obvious ... especially the Daredevil, Jessica Jones and Luke Cage series which feature lots of super nicely lit, night time shots (where it really becomes apparent)...

Here's a brief list I found on the Intrawebz listing some of the definite HDR enabled titles on Netflix:


A Series of Unfortunate Events
Bloodline
Chef's Table
Hibana
Knights of Sidonia
Marco Polo
Marvel's Daredevil
Marvel's Iron Fist
Marvel's Jessica Jones
Marvel's Luke Cage
Marvel's The Defenders
The Do-Over
The Ridiculous Six

(BTW: Knights of Sidnoia is really good and so are all of the Marvel joints)


----------



## AngryLobster

Thanks, I'll check those out and experiment with the settings.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryLobster*
> 
> Yeah but doesn't dropping back light or brightness when the TV goes into Solar Flare mode once HDR is detected defeat the purpose of HDR? I thought the point is achieving 1000nits brightness to view real HDR but I underestimated just how uncomfortable it is.
> 
> I dunno how I feel about it right now but I'll experiment and see.


I think the higher max brightness is only one part of it.
The other thing is that instead of a scene with like a dark corner or an area that looks like a pitch black shadow with minimal to no detail, HDR will now let you see some of the things in there like maybe make out a table and chairs or something in the dark area and just heighten the overall details and extremes in brightness shifts.


----------



## FoeFiddyCuh

Rtings is a little biased towards Samsung. This set has too much motion blur. Everything else is great but for PC gaming it's not the best. Vizio P series would be my choice 10ms responce time compared to Samsungs 17ms and the ability to run games at 1080p 120fps.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoeFiddyCuh*
> 
> Rtings is a little biased towards Samsung. This set has too much motion blur. Everything else is great but for PC gaming it's not the best. Vizio P series would be my choice 10ms responce time compared to Samsungs 17ms and the ability to run games at 1080p 120fps.


Does that Vizio lineup do chroma 4:4:4?


----------



## MR-e

I read the Vizio does not do HDR gaming though if that's your thing.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Does that Vizio lineup do chroma 4:4:4?





TCO


----------



## boredgunner

Thought so, that's a shame.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Thought so, that's a shame.


Yea, but the other guy wants to get the P series instead









To each their own I suppose.

TCO


----------



## AngryLobster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FoeFiddyCuh*
> 
> Rtings is a little biased towards Samsung. This set has too much motion blur. Everything else is great but for PC gaming it's not the best. Vizio P series would be my choice 10ms responce time compared to Samsungs 17ms and the ability to run games at 1080p 120fps.


They also conveniently ignore the image quality loss in game mode and still positively score it in that category.


----------



## Foxrun

I just picked up the 49in and it's a really nice display, but I have this terrible dimming problem in game mode that I cannot get rid off. Playing bf1 and running down a shaded alley will dam near turn the screen black. Ive shut off the auto dimming settings but I still get it. However when I set the picture mode to pc it no longer auto dims, and it looks incredible. The only downside to that is the 37.8ms compared to the 21ms. Have any of you guys been able to fix the dimming problem in game mode?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foxrun*
> 
> I just picked up the 49in and it's a really nice display, but I have this terrible dimming problem in game mode that I cannot get rid off. Playing bf1 and running down a shaded alley will dam near turn the screen black. Ive shut off the auto dimming settings but I still get it. However when I set the picture mode to pc it no longer auto dims, and it looks incredible. The only downside to that is the 37.8ms compared to the 21ms. Have any of you guys been able to fix the dimming problem in game mode?


I noticed when playing in one of the city maps last night (An alley) that it was extremely dark also









I think I have the brightness all of the way up.... I will have to look at this again.

TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I noticed when playing in one of the city maps last night (An alley) that it was extremely dark also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have the brightness all of the way up.... I will have to look at this again.
> 
> TCO


I cant think of the name of the setting off the top of my head, but something with "dynamic" maybe?
At least for TV/Movies altering that can really change the degree of brightness.

I believe the options are Off/Low/Medium/High if that helps find the setting I am referring to.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I cant think of the name of the setting off the top of my head, but something with "dynamic" maybe?
> At least for TV/Movies altering that can really change the degree of brightness.
> 
> I believe the options are Off/Low/Medium/High if that helps find the setting I am referring to.


Pretty sure I have it off, might try it on low tonight.

TCO


----------



## FoeFiddyCuh

If your main concern is detailed monitor text Samsung would be the best option. If gaming is at the top of your list the P series outshines the Samsung. If you ask Rtings themselves they will recommend the Vizio over Samsung for gaming.


----------



## FoeFiddyCuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I cant think of the name of the setting off the top of my head, but something with "dynamic" maybe?
> At least for TV/Movies altering that can really change the degree of brightness.
> 
> I believe the options are Off/Low/Medium/High if that helps find the setting I am referring to.


Samsungs edge lit dynamic lighting is horrible leave it off. It will never compete with Vizios back lit LED zones. Disable all those unneeded options for gaming they will only add input lag.


----------



## Foxrun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Pretty sure I have it off, might try it on low tonight.
> 
> TCO


Yeah I've got everything off but it's still darkening, PC mode doesnt have this "dimming" though. Ill suck up the input lag for now.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

How is everyone liking the Tube?

Any New Takers or Findings?

TCO


----------



## kayan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How is everyone liking the Tube?
> 
> Any New Takers or Findings?
> 
> TCO


I grabbed a 55" ks8500. Picture is amazing for movies and other HD content. 4k source, especially with HDR, is phenomenal. So surreal and lifelike. I almost forget that I'm not seeing it in real life. However my first set had terrible light bleed, it was about a 1-inch diagonal line from the bottom left up to around where the picture started (when watching blu rays). Even when content was displayed in full screen, it was still noticeable.

We swapped it out for a replacement last weekend, and even the new one has a lot of bleed, but it isn't quite as noticeable. I'm not sure what we'll do with this one.

I love the way this TV looks aesthetically, and the one connect box will be awesome if we end up wall mounting the tv (which we will do if we keep it). I was surprised that both my wife and I love the remote. As we hated our previous Samsung tv remote. One other innovative thing about it is the feet. Why don't more manufacturers make their stands this simple?

Oh, one other thing, the TV games well with an Xbox1S. I haven't bothered with game mode yet. But I'm not a competitive pro gamer. I have yet to try hooking my PC up to it yet.


----------



## Kiros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayan*
> 
> Oh, one other thing, the TV games well with an Xbox1S. I haven't bothered with game mode yet. But I'm not a competitive pro gamer. I have yet to try hooking my PC up to it yet.


Gaming mode isn't really necessary since Input/Response time on normal is still really good when I play Red Orchestra 2/Rising Storm on PC. My friends call me nuts but I use the 55KS8500 as my main PC monitor since I got back in May


----------



## MR-e

I placed an order for 5x 3ft, 1x 6ft & 1x 10ft certified premium hdmi cables from monoprice. Thanks for the great review and tip for the cables TCO. Not sure what I'll need exactly, but thought better to have them ready than to wait once I get to mounting the TV









Just did a walkthrough of our new apartment, looking real good and ever so close to completion date. Teaser pic of where we will me mounting our set


----------



## Dry Bonez

Alright guys, so the samsung rep just came to my house to attempt to replace the screen because i saw some weird spots when i attempted to clean the screen.also,i urge everyone to NOT clean there screen,and if you do(with a liquid),shine a flash light to your TV and im certain you will notice some weird clouding. Luckily its ONLY visible with a flashlight. so anyway, he attempted to replace it but the replacement itself had some marks that would NOT come off even after using a a Samsung screen cleaner, so i ended up staying with it because in all actuality,its really a GREAT display that i absolutely love and even the guy said "really?",its a very minor issue lol. Also, i noticed 2 dead pixels that are bugging me. does anyone else have any or is it just me?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> I placed an order for 5x 3ft, 1x 6ft & 1x 10ft certified premium hdmi cables from monoprice. Thanks for the great review and tip for the cables TCO. Not sure what I'll need exactly, but thought better to have them ready than to wait once I get to mounting the TV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just did a walkthrough of our new apartment, looking real good and ever so close to completion date. Teaser pic of where we will me mounting our set
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Testing the HDMI cables was my pleasure. I like saving money









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Alright guys, so the samsung rep just came to my house to attempt to replace the screen because i saw some weird spots when i attempted to clean the screen.also,i urge everyone to NOT clean there screen,and if you do(with a liquid),shine a flash light to your TV and im certain you will notice some weird clouding. Luckily its ONLY visible with a flashlight. so anyway, he attempted to replace it but the replacement itself had some marks that would NOT come off even after using a a Samsung screen cleaner, so i ended up staying with it because in all actuality,its really a GREAT display that i absolutely love and even the guy said "really?",its a very minor issue lol. Also, i noticed 2 dead pixels that are bugging me. does anyone else have any or is it just me?


You have dead pixels and you kept the TV?









TCO


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Testing the HDMI cables was my pleasure. I like saving money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have dead pixels and you kept the TV?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


unfortunately. Yes. But i been reading samsung will not take it if it has less than 5. Also, im sure many others here have someyou just need to look for them


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> unfortunately. Yes. But i been reading samsung will not take it if it has less than 5. Also, im sure many others here have someyou just need to look for them


Well dang this thread seems dead, sooo explain this since i dont understand. Youtube just rolled out a HDR update and im trying to watch it on my PC using firefox,My tv is in game mode and i cant seem to enable HDR. help?


----------



## mrtbahgs

This thread is quiet because it is simple:

Best TV for they money = KS8000
Show some pics and link to review
/end-thread










In regards to your question, I don't believe you have to do anything extra for HDR vs non-HDR content.
If the TV senses HDR content, it will utilize the technology.

I suppose the only thing I don't know for sure is if like you mentioned you are watching YouTube via the PC and not a native app on the TV.
1) Does Firefox display 4k picture over HDMI? (Also be sure the UHD setting is on for the TV's input slot)
2) If it supports 4k, does Firefox support HDR over HDMI?

Perhaps test it with the native YouTube app and compare, although I don't know if it would need some update if you say YT just released one in general.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> This thread is quiet because it is simple:
> 
> *Best TV for they money = KS8000
> Show some pics and link to review*
> /end-thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *In regards to your question, I don't believe you have to do anything extra for HDR vs non-HDR content.*
> If the TV senses HDR content, it will utilize the technology.
> 
> I suppose the only thing I don't know for sure is if like you mentioned you are watching YouTube via the PC and not a native app on the TV.
> 1) Does Firefox display 4k picture over HDMI? (Also be sure the UHD setting is on for the TV's input slot)
> 2) If it supports 4k, does Firefox support HDR over HDMI?
> 
> Perhaps test it with the native YouTube app and compare, although I don't know if it would need some update if you say YT just released one in general.












I do believe that is correct. You shouldn't have to enable anything.

TCO


----------



## Malinkadink

Why do i keep seeing sales for all the models bigger than the 49? I wanna snag a 49" KS8000 for $700-800, they're discounting the 55" to 1k so why not do the same for the 49".


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Why do i keep seeing sales for all the models bigger than the 49? I wanna snag a 49" KS8000 for $700-800, they're discounting the 55" to 1k so why not do the same for the 49".


I agree and have thought the same. Perhaps Black Friday we will see the 49" @ $799


----------



## Foxrun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> I agree and have thought the same. Perhaps Black Friday we will see the 49" @ $799


https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN49KS8000-49-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01D98AQ30

It's 897 right now on amazon, and that's the lowest that Ive seen it at. I grabbed my 49 a few months back for close to 1200, so I think this is a pretty good deal. Then again it can always drop on black friday


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foxrun*
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN49KS8000-49-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01D98AQ30
> 
> It's 897 right now on amazon, and that's the lowest that Ive seen it at. I grabbed my 49 a few months back for close to 1200, so I think this is a pretty good deal. Then again it can always drop on black friday


Great I could have done well without seeing this!! Must...resist.....help me...


----------



## mrtbahgs

Can't guarantee it, but if your credit card has price protection you can likely buy now and if the price drops around black friday or the super bowl depending how much time you have you can submit a claim to get back the difference.

Black friday is usually the low and middle range models trying to push quantity out, I doubt too many top tier TVs will drop a ton.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Just watched The Shallows on bluray on the TV. Amazing colours and was really impressed with the quality of the picture!

TCO


----------



## Malinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just watched The Shallows on bluray on the TV. Amazing colours and was really impressed with the quality of the picture!
> 
> TCO


Lot of good Blake Lively butt shots in that one


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> Lot of good Blake Lively butt shots in that one


Couldnt have said it better myself!

TCO


----------



## MR-e

Man... I'm so tempted to return the 49" I have now to get in on the B&H 60" sale... I wonder if it'll drop lower next week for Black Friday?!


----------



## mrtbahgs

Not sure if things have changed, but the 60" is a slightly different model when I saw it.
The bezel is larger and uglier if i recall correctly and that may be the only change, but certainly could have others as well.
If the screen itself is the exact same, then that's what really matters, but at least expect a chance at a cosmetic difference.

The 55 and 65" should be the exact same as your 49" though.


----------



## MR-e

Interesting... I didn't know that. I may have to stop by one of the stores and see if they have it on display to compare.


----------



## mrtbahgs

I am like 95% sure I saw it in person in Best Buy and noticed the difference (and personally found it much uglier) so unless they miss-labeled the model that's one place to check.

Also I think Rtings had a sentence in their review of the KS8000 series that mentioned the difference.


----------



## MR-e

You are right Mr tea bags







(lol). I checked rtings for reviews again and did notice the comment about thicker bezels. Decisions decisions. I think I'll wait one more week to see how low the KS8000's will go before I pull the trigger.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Playing BF1 in 4k on here looks amazing. Using the Ps4 Pro.

TCO


----------



## Roxborough

How does the KS7000 compare to the KS8000? From what I can see from the specs & reviews, they are very similar.

This is the TV I am wanting to purchase, when it comes down in price. £799 is a little too steep. Couldn't get it approved by the Mrs.

I am looking for a TV to go with my PS4 Pro (when I get it), and to run 4:4:4 on my PC. I believe the KS7000 is the closest I can get with 10-bit HDR.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Just got me a 49KS8000 for $680 from Samsung. Figured I might as well try it out as a computer monitor. YOLO!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Just got me a 49KS8000 for $680 from Samsung. Figured I might as well try it out as a computer monitor. YOLO!


Damn!!! That's so cheap!

TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Damn!!! That's so cheap!
> 
> TCO


Yes sir! Time to go blind!


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Just got me a 49KS8000 for $680 from Samsung. Figured I might as well try it out as a computer monitor. YOLO!


Mind sharing how you scored that amazing deal?


----------



## mrtbahgs

I see they patched the loophole in a sense for the Samsung EPP pricing for friends of employees so I can no longer see the cheap prices.
EPP is how I got my 65" for $1380 and then a bunch of cash back and rewards to drop it down even further.

The $680 would be an eligible employer has a deal through Samsung directly for very good pricing.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I see they patched the loophole in a sense for the Samsung EPP pricing for friends of employees so I can no longer see the cheap prices.
> EPP is how I got my 65" for $1380 and then a bunch of cash back and rewards to drop it down even further.
> 
> The $680 would be an eligible employer has a deal through Samsung directly for very good pricing.


I have two Samsung accounts I can use and still see the sale prices. The 65KS8000 is going for $1079 at the moment which I plan on buying once I get my refund for the defective 65KS8500 I owned.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> Mind sharing how you scored that amazing deal?


Samsung employee account I scored about two months ago.


----------



## MR-e

Is there a way any of us can get in on that Samsung account via referral?


----------



## mrtbahgs

Oh dang, you are right on the Samsung account working.
I was trying to go from [email protected] and then link into Samsung and it would error saying I need to be an employee.

When i logged into Samsung itself with the same email that claims I am tied to a specific company's perks, was basically referred into it from someone legit, I can see the lower prices again.

Good to know I maybe have the option still for the future and am locked in before their fix, but I don't think I will be able to squeeze in a price match from them.
I still got it for roughly that price though after cash back and reward points, but would be even better to get a partial refund on top of this!


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Oh dang, you are right on the Samsung account working.
> I was trying to go from [email protected] and then link into Samsung and it would error saying I need to be an employee.
> 
> When i logged into Samsung itself with the same email that claims I am tied to a specific company's perks, was basically referred into it from someone legit, I can see the lower prices again.
> 
> Good to know I maybe have the option still for the future and am locked in before their fix, but I don't think I will be able to squeeze in a price match from them.
> I still got it for roughly that price though after cash back and reward points, but would be even better to get a partial refund on top of this!


There's also 4 percent cash back from ebates. I'm guessing WOW points/credit from perks at work as well


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> There's also 4 percent cash back from ebates. I'm guessing WOW points/credit from perks at work as well


Ya I think [email protected] is down to like 2x points or something small, but I wouldn't be able to get it from there if I were to buy today anyway.
It was 10x points and 10% cash back on Ebates when I ordered like 45 days ago.

Unfortunately the credit card I used for this order does not offer a price protection to try and make a claim there.
I guess that feature is independently decided by the banks or something and not just across the board for Visa Signature.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Ya I think [email protected] is down to like 2x points or something small, but I wouldn't be able to get it from there if I were to buy today anyway.
> It was 10x points and 10% cash back on Ebates when I ordered like 45 days ago.
> 
> Unfortunately the credit card I used for this order does not offer a price protection to try and make a claim there.
> I guess that feature is independently decided by the banks or something and not just across the board for Visa Signature.


You still got a good deal regardless.

I got $45 WOW points and $27 back from ebates. Hope the TV arrives soon and in perfect condition.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> You still got a good deal regardless.
> 
> I got $45 WOW points and $27 back from ebates. Hope the TV arrives soon and in perfect condition.


Let us know!

TCO


----------



## Foxrun

Anyone using the TV as their primary monitor? Ive been switching back between a 25in 1440p to the TV and can't decide which one to stick with.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foxrun*
> 
> Anyone using the TV as their primary monitor? Ive been switching back between a 25in 1440p to the TV and can't decide which one to stick with.


Mine arrives next week and plan to use it as my primary. I wouldn't go 25 inch myself...


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> I have two Samsung accounts I can use and still see the sale prices. The 65KS8000 is going for $1079 at the moment which I plan on buying once I get my refund for the defective 65KS8500 I owned.


:O do you reckon you could order me a TV to the UK?







!! I would do anything to get that kind of a deal.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> :O do you reckon you could order me a TV to the UK?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !! I would do anything to get that kind of a deal.


Doubt that's possible.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Found a picture of the Quantum Dots.





http://www.digitaltrends.com/home-theater/how-quantum-dot-lcd-tvs-work/

TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Op Updated with Pictures and Links.

TCO


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Both LG's are PWM/Flicker Free, destroy all LCD's image quality wise and support 4:4:4, but the B6 has very high input lag (70ms which is double that of Samsung & Sony's 4:4:4 lag) and inferior HDR support. Like displays which use PWM, I would not buy the B6 on principle since it has unstable and high input lag which makes mouse use floaty and laggy feeling. The E6 also offers better HDR support than the B6
> 
> http://ca.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/e6
> http://ca.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/b6
> Poor black depth from Sony the X800D is either from panel lottery, user error (using the wrong HDMI Black Level setting) or user stupidity (using it in the dark with the brightness cranked; no LCD has high enough static contrast to display black as black instead of greyish when outputting 300cdm/2 brightness) since the panel has >3,500:1 contrast..
> 
> Glossy screens like the KS800 look better in stores versus the X800D since it's semi-glossy coating turns reflections caused by the store lights into white haze and reduces color vibrancy. When used as intended with a *biased light* in an otherwise light-less room the differences become minute.
> 
> *Left Glossy vs Semi-Glossy vs Plasma Deposition Coating*: Make sure to view the full screen version (link) in another window
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/x8WJFgCoating Comparison 2 by Deepinthesky Teslastorm, on Flickr


How the hell did I know about bias light? Then I found this... and my head exploded:










Then I also found out that because I use my monitor with very low brigthness (15%) I see double or triple-stuff because of the monitor being pwm-lit, with this:

http://www.testufo.com/#test=blurtrail

You are supposed to see only one line. If you see multiple: PWM.

Problem? I was set on the 43KS7500 (European version of the KS8500 but in 43", you guys don't have it in the USA) but being pwm.... and more expensive than the Sony X800D.... crap, I was almost decided to get the Samsung.

Thank you. I learned a lot. What pisses me off is that I have literally been spending hours a day for the past 2 weeks and nobody has ever commented anything about PWM on the Samsungs. *N-o-b-o-d-y*. And though for people that don't notice it it isn't such a big deal... people should at least know about it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> If the PWM on Tvs or monitors doesn't effect the end user... then why just shut them down completely?
> 
> TCO


The problem is that it might affect you but you simply don't know. Somehow I thought my monitor was pwm-free yet I always felt that the ghosting and blurring was a bit weird, didn't know why. Guess what? A big part of the ghosting problem is caused by pwm. Note that I never had any headaches or anything...

I guess it all depends on how you use your screen. Use very high brightness? Then PWM won't ever be an issue.


----------



## DADDYDC650

I'm expecting shipment tomorrow morning. Hope it's a good one... The 65" version has an amazing picture so I'd imagine the higher PPI on the 49" will help the image even more.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> How does the KS7000 compare to the KS8000? From what I can see from the specs & reviews, they are very similar.
> 
> This is the TV I am wanting to purchase, when it comes down in price. £799 is a little too steep. Couldn't get it approved by the Mrs.
> 
> I am looking for a TV to go with my PS4 Pro (when I get it), and to run 4:4:4 on my PC. I believe the KS7000 is the closest I can get with 10-bit HDR.


bump

Does anyone have any experience with the UE55KS7000 (IPS Panel, not VA like the others)?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> bump
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with the UE55KS7000 (IPS Panel, not VA like the others)?






Review from Techradar

I think I spoke to @iARDAs about this. I believe this Tv is the Same as the KS8000 but Named Differently in the UK? I could be wrong, but pretty sure this is the exact same screen.

This is from Rtings.com



I have read all descriptions for some of the TVS that would be relative, and Rtings.com never mentions that model, which I am sure they would have if it wasn't already reviewed by them.









TCO


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Review from Techradar
> 
> I think I spoke to @iARDAs about this. I believe this Tv is the Same as the KS8000 but Named Differently in the UK? I could be wrong, but pretty sure this is the exact same screen.
> 
> This is from Rtings.com
> 
> 
> 
> I have read all descriptions for some of the TVS that would be relative, and Rtings.com never mentions that model, which I am sure they would have if it wasn't already reviewed by them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Thanks for the info. I have had an offer for a used UE55JU6800... which I can get for £450. I believe this is also an IPS panel from Samsung. I am going to check it out tonight, see if it is worth it. Considering the KS7000 is £800 refurbished.. the JU6800 could be a good deal. I'll keep you posted (if you're interested)


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I have had an offer for a used UE55JU6800... which I can get for £450. I believe this is also an IPS panel from Samsung. I am going to check it out tonight, see if it is worth it. Considering the KS7000 is £800 refurbished.. the JU6800 could be a good deal. I'll keep you posted (if you're interested)


Keep us updated. Pretty sure the JU Series have been discontinued ( I realize that it is used, but just letting you know)

TCO


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Keep us updated. Pretty sure the JU Series have been discontinued ( I realize that it is used, but just letting you know)
> 
> TCO


Yeah they have been discontinued. I just can't seem to find a happy medium between what I want: a KS7000 for £979 new, or a the low end TV's that have cheap panels with rubbish HDR.

I believe the JU6800 was £1600 new in the UK last year-ish. Exactly what would be the visible difference between the KS7000 and the JU6800... THe JU6800 has added the HDR patch from Samsung, so hopefully it won't look too different from the KS7000 for almost half the price.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Yeah they have been discontinued. I just can't seem to find a happy medium between what I want: a KS7000 for £979 new, or a the low end TV's that have cheap panels with rubbish HDR.
> 
> I believe the JU6800 was £1600 new in the UK last year-ish. Exactly what would be the visible difference between the KS7000 and the JU6800... THe JU6800 has added the HDR patch from Samsung, so hopefully it won't look too different from the KS7000 for almost half the price.


Watch carefully for the input lag.









TCO


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Watch carefully for the input lag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


From what I have seen it has very low input lag: http://www.displayspecifications.com/en/model/9db6434


----------



## mrtbahgs

Are both "Quantum Dot" displays?
I haven't followed the scene too closely, but I could see it where Quantum Dot only entered in the K series skus.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> From what I have seen it has very low input lag: http://www.displayspecifications.com/en/model/9db6434


Right, it says 25ms but It what mode? Is that 1080p 60hz with Game Mode on? Is that in 4k with Game mode ON? What about 1080p with HDR?









TCO


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> bump
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with the UE55KS7000 (IPS Panel, not VA like the others)?


That I know of, all KS models from Samsung are VA panels, not IPS.


----------



## Lass3

KS8005 in Europe (I think it's KS9000 in America?!) is 20ms in game mode in SDR and 21ms with HDR (after patch, has been out for weeks).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lass3*
> 
> KS8005 in Europe (I think it's KS9000 in America?!) is 20ms in game mode in SDR and 21ms with HDR (after patch, has been out for weeks).


We need a correllation chart to have the relative models of EURO vs American Models.

TCO


----------



## Lass3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> We need a correllation chart to have the relative models of EURO vs American Models.
> 
> TCO


It's a stupid move by Samsung. You might be able to compare here:

*American models*: http://www.flatpanelshd.com/article.php?subaction=showfull&id=1460114926
*EU models*: http://www.flatpanels.dk/artikel.php?subaction=showfull&id=1460103549

I'm not sure why Samsung decided to do this..


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lass3*
> 
> It's a stupid move by Samsung. You might be able to compare here:
> 
> *American models*: http://www.flatpanelshd.com/article.php?subaction=showfull&id=1460114926
> *EU models*: http://www.flatpanels.dk/artikel.php?subaction=showfull&id=1460103549
> 
> I'm not sure why Samsung decided to do this..


Good Find! + Rep Sir









TCO


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Right, it says 25ms but It what mode? Is that 1080p 60hz with Game Mode on? Is that in 4k with Game mode ON? What about 1080p with HDR?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


4k at 60hz, with HDR on is 37ms apparently. (I can't find the link to it, but that is what I recall seeing).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> 4k at 60hz, with HDR on is 37ms apparently. (I can't find the link to it, but that is what I recall seeing).


See if you can link us to some test on it, I am interested in that for sure. I wish Rtings.com had done a write up on this as I find their tests are extensive.

TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> See if you can link us to some test on it, I am interested in that for sure. I wish Rtings.com had done a write up on this as I find their tests are extensive.
> 
> TCO


Since you are the local expert, what picture settings do you recommend for the 49KS8000 when connected to PC? I just got mine today and it looks like a keeper. No dead pixels or apparent backlight bleeding from what I can see. Also, do the Nvidia settings look correct below?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Since you are the local expert, what picture settings do you recommend for the 49KS8000? I just got mine today and it looks like a keeper. No dead pixels or apparent backlight bleeding from what I can see. Also, do the Nvidia settings look correct below?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Follow the Guide provided by Rtings.com I have linked in the OP.

THe Nvidia settings look just fine as I have seen the same when I hooked the KS8000 to my computer.

I am no expert, just here to provide an option for a great tv at a lower costs than the OLED's that are on the market.

TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Follow the Guide provided by Rtings.com I have linked in the OP.
> 
> THe Nvidia settings look just fine as I have seen the same when I hooked the KS8000 to my computer.
> 
> I am no expert, just here to provide an option for a great tv at a lower costs than the OLED's that are on the market.
> 
> TCO


I have my PC connected to HDMI 2 and I can only select "Dynamic" and "Standard". Is this normal? The TV auto labeled the input PC as well.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> I have my PC connected to HDMI 2 and I can only select "Dynamic" and "Standard". Is this normal? The TV auto labeled the input PC as well.


If you are in PC mode then yes, the tv will rule out options for picture according to what mode you have hooked up. The Label you speak of can be changed to modify the options that the TV allows you to choose. If you were to hook up the PC but label the input as say "Blu Ray Player" then it will open up other options to choose from, but rule out the clarity of PC mode.

TCO


----------



## Foxrun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Since you are the local expert, what picture settings do you recommend for the 49KS8000 when connected to PC? I just got mine today and it looks like a keeper. No dead pixels or apparent backlight bleeding from what I can see. Also, do the Nvidia settings look correct below?


I would put in RGB and set the range to full instead of limited. Then put the tv in game mode, this tv has the roughly the same input lag as my monitor WHEN IT IS IN GAME MODE. Ill post some settings soon!


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foxrun*
> 
> I would put in RGB and set the range to full instead of limited. Then put the tv in game mode, this tv has the roughly the same input lag as my monitor WHEN IT IS IN GAME MODE. Ill post some settings soon!


I don't think the TV will run 4:4:4 with RGB though right?


----------



## Foxrun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> I don't think the TV will run 4:4:4 with RGB though right?


Eh damn probably not, but when Im in 4:4:4 I cant set the color range to full which kind of bleaches my blacks.


----------



## Foxrun

Wait maybe my blacks dont look bad... my God I havent been running true 4k this entire time!


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foxrun*
> 
> Wait maybe my blacks dont look bad... my God I havent been running true 4k this entire time!


LoL! You are right, the blacks look nice with RGB. I'll run the chroma test later tonight.

Update: Just ran the test. RGB = Chroma as well.









Bad news, I was playing some BF1 and after the round ended, the screen turned black as usual before it displayed the scoreboard and what do I see? I nice bright green stuck pixel in the middle top portion of the screen.... will be getting a replacement asap. It's not a big deal but now my eyes are always looking for it.


----------



## Foxrun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> LoL! You are right, the blacks look nice with RGB. I'll run the chroma test later tonight.
> 
> Bad news, I was playing some BF1 and after the round ended, the screen turned black as usual before it displayed the scoreboard and what do I see? I nice bright green stuck pixel in the middle top portion of the screen.... will be getting a replacement asap. It's not a big deal but now my eyes are always looking for it.


That's terrible! I made a tiny scratch on it with the mic of my headphones. I cant believe how easy it is to damage the screen. Im trying to see if I can find a difference now in black levels between the two. Any idea as to why we cant switch it from limited to full?


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foxrun*
> 
> That's terrible! I made a tiny scratch on it with the mic of my headphones. I cant believe how easy it is to damage the screen. Im trying to see if I can find a difference now in black levels between the two. Any idea as to why we cant switch it from limited to full?


RGB has better blacks sure. Going to test it out with BF1/COD soon.

The glass is very easy to scratch. It'll scratch even while using a soft cloth if you keep wiping the same spot and a piece of dust gets in there.


----------



## Foxrun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> RGB has better blacks sure. Going to test it out with BF1/COD soon.
> 
> The glass is very easy to scratch. It'll scratch even while using a soft cloth if you keep wiping the same spot and a piece of dust gets in there.


I dont see any difference in black levels now. Scenes in Skyrim and Killing Floor 2 look the same which is good!


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foxrun*
> 
> I dont see any difference in black levels now. Scenes in Skyrim and Killing Floor 2 look the same which is good!


There's a difference for sure when u switch to RGB. A little black crush perhaps.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Here's a nice bight green stuck pixel. Fail!


----------



## Roxborough

Yikes, this is putting me off purchasing! I am leaning more towards this now instead: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/philips-bdm4350uc-43-3840x2160-ips-4k-60hz-widescreen-led-monitor-black-5yr-warranty-mo-02b-ph.html#write_comment

Just wondering if I am missing out on HDR if I went the monitor route. Hmmm!!


----------



## DADDYDC650

Update! I tapped the stuck pixel about 40 times last night and when I woke up this morning, it was unstuck! WINNING!


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Yikes, this is putting me off purchasing! I am leaning more towards this now instead: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/philips-bdm4350uc-43-3840x2160-ips-4k-60hz-widescreen-led-monitor-black-5yr-warranty-mo-02b-ph.html#write_comment
> 
> Just wondering if I am missing out on HDR if I went the monitor route. Hmmm!!


Trust me, you'll want HDR as soon as games are updated to feature it.

Also, IPS panels suffer from backlight bleeding. The only IPS monitors that don't to my knowledge is the LG ultrawide 34UM88.


----------



## Lass3

We should see HDR PC monitors at CES in january I hope. We need this on PC too!!
Do NOT buy a PC monitor right now. It's going to be the next big thing on PC. But I'm not sure how they will solve the nits requirement "issue".

HDR really makes a major difference on TV (Ultra HD Premium certified ones).


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lass3*
> 
> We should see HDR PC monitors at CES in january I hope. We need this on PC too!!
> Do NOT buy a PC monitor right now. It's going to be the next big thing on PC. But I'm not sure how they will solve the nits requirement "issue".
> 
> HDR really makes a major difference on TV (Ultra HD Premium certified ones).


It'll be a long time before they are reasonably priced.

So, after a day of usage and after fixing the 1 stuck pixel, I'm in love! Colors are great, motion blur is at a minimum and very much like the Dell u2713hm I own. The input lag feels just like the Dell as well in PC mode with 4:4:4 activated. The Dell's input lag is measured at 22ms so I was pleasantly surprised I wasn't able to feel a difference in FPS. The glass panel adds to the picture and reflections are kept to a minimum. Speakers are nice for a tv but I'll be using my JBL 308 speakers. Can't wait until games are patched with HDR!


----------



## Lass3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> It'll be a long time before they are reasonably priced.
> 
> So, after a day of usage and after fixing the 1 stuck pixel, I'm in love! Colors are great, motion blur is at a minimum and very much like the Dell u2713hm I own. The input lag feels just like the Dell as well in PC mode with 4:4:4 activated. The Dell's input lag is measured at 22ms so I was pleasantly surprised I wasn't able to feel a difference in FPS. The glass panel adds to the picture and reflections are kept to a minimum. Speakers are nice for a tv but I'll be using my JBL 308 speakers. Can't wait until games are patched with HDR!


Shadow Warrior 2 has HDR support but I'm not sure what it actually does. Some "HDR" options in PC games just oversaturates colors and make them look kinda bad. Maybe we need a HDR standard on PC like HDR10 for TVs?

Does AMD and Nvidia drivers support HDR at all right now..?


----------



## Roxborough

http://www.richersounds.com/showclearanceproduct/buy/SAMS-UE55JS9000-ES/Samsung+Ue55js9000+ES.html

Should I buy it... should I not... OH MY WHAT A PRICE!!!

http://www.displayspecifications.com/en/model/e37024


----------



## Foxrun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Yikes, this is putting me off purchasing! I am leaning more towards this now instead: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/philips-bdm4350uc-43-3840x2160-ips-4k-60hz-widescreen-led-monitor-black-5yr-warranty-mo-02b-ph.html#write_comment
> 
> Just wondering if I am missing out on HDR if I went the monitor route. Hmmm!!


Get the ks8000, according to rtings there is no real difference between the 8000 and the 9000/9500 series except for price. The only cons for the ks8000 that I have after about a month of use as my primary monitor, and 71 hours in bf1, is that there is some tiny amount of blur in a dark image since it is a VA panel. However, the overshoot is 0.2ms which clears it up quickly. The image on this set is fantastic!


----------



## Lass3

Don't buy a JS model, it can't show HDR properly. Only buy Ultra HD Premium TV's. These can do HDR properly..


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lass3*
> 
> Don't buy a JS model, it can't show HDR properly. Only buy Ultra HD Premium TV.


I can't afford a KS8000. That is £1500 in the UK. The KS7000 is only £800... And I can't see a big difference, everywhere on the web says it is a 10 bit panel, but displayspecs says it is an 8bit with FCR.

I really, really want a KS8000, but I just cannot afford it.. Unless I get the 49" version.... Refurbed at £830.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I can't afford a KS8000. That is £1500 in the UK. The KS7000 is only £800... And I can't see a big difference, everywhere on the web says it is a 10 bit panel, but displayspecs says it is an 8bit with FCR.
> 
> I really, really want a KS8000, but I just cannot afford it.. Unless I get the 49" version.... Refurbed at £830.


Please Buy the KS7000 as it is relative and I have read about it in the links that were provided. Do not buy a JSModel as I agree with Lass.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foxrun*
> 
> Get the ks8000, according to rtings there is no real difference between the 8000 and the 9000/9500 series except for price. The only cons for the ks8000 that I have after about a month of use as my primary monitor, and 71 hours in bf1, is that there is some tiny amounts of blur in a dark image since it is a VA panel. However, the overshoot is 0.2ms which clears it up quickly. The image on this set is fantastic!


I love the Passion in this quote.

TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I can't afford a KS8000. That is £1500 in the UK. The KS7000 is only £800... And I can't see a big difference, everywhere on the web says it is a 10 bit panel, but displayspecs says it is an 8bit with FCR.
> 
> I really, really want a KS8000, but I just cannot afford it.. Unless I get the 49" version.... Refurbed at £830.


Pretty sure the KS7000 in Europe = KS8000 from the US.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Pretty sure the KS7000 in Europe = KS8000 from the US.


I would hope so... But why would they call the KS7000 (UK) the KS8000 (US), and also have a KS8000 in the UK too... that is what... the KS9000 in the US? Very confusing, I have seen the chart posted before though. Which still doesn't clear it up too much for me.

I do appreciate all of the assistance with this though, a TV is a huge purchase, and black friday is coming up, so I hope I can find the KS7000 55" at a good price. Otherwise, I'll have to downgrade to the 49" to stick within my budget.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I would hope so... But why would they call the KS7000 (UK) the KS8000 (US), and also have a KS8000 in the UK too... that is what... the KS9000 in the US? Very confusing, I have seen the chart posted before though. Which still doesn't clear it up too much for me.
> 
> I do appreciate all of the assistance with this though, a TV is a huge purchase, and black friday is coming up, so I hope I can find the KS7000 55" at a good price. Otherwise, I'll have to downgrade to the 49" to stick within my budget.


The 49" Isn't anything to Scoff at, as the Pixel Density is quite fantastic for picture quality.









TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I would hope so... But why would they call the KS7000 (UK) the KS8000 (US), and also have a KS8000 in the UK too... that is what... the KS9000 in the US? Very confusing, I have seen the chart posted before though. Which still doesn't clear it up too much for me.
> 
> I do appreciate all of the assistance with this though, a TV is a huge purchase, and black friday is coming up, so I hope I can find the KS7000 55" at a good price. Otherwise, I'll have to downgrade to the 49" to stick within my budget.


I'm positive the KS7000 = KS8000 according to RTNGS.com as well as AVSForums.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> I'm positive the KS7000 = KS8000 according to RTNGS.com as well as AVSForums.


I have also read through a tonne of these forums and couldn't find a definitive answer, but I am going to go with it, it will give me piece of mind anyway. So +rep to you sir!


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I have also read through a tonne of these forums and couldn't find a definitive answer, but I am going to go with it, it will give me piece of mind anyway. So +rep to you sir!


First paragraph

http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ks8000


----------



## TheCautiousOne

http://www.pocket-lint.com/news/137575-samsung-4k-hdr-tv-choices-for-2016-ks9000-ks8000-ks7500-and-ks7000-compared

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> First paragraph
> 
> http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ks8000


Quote:


> The 4k Samsung KS8000 LED is a well rounded UHD TV that delivers a great picture quality. However, its picture deteriorates at an angle. From the front, everything looks colorful and detailed. It handled motion well and input lag was especially low. The KS8000 can also get very bright and does justice to HDR content. The equivalent model in Europe is the KS7000.


Excellent Catch!

TCO


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> First paragraph
> 
> http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ks8000


I don't take anything for verbatim, but hopefully this is 100% correct. In which case, I am very excited.


----------



## Roxborough

Can any of you guys comment on the viewing angles, check these reviews here is it really as bad as it is made out to be in those reviews? :/


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Can any of you guys comment on the viewing angles, check these reviews here is it really as bad as it is made out to be in those reviews? :/


You'll lose contrast and the colors will wash out some when viewing from the sides but that's normal for a VA panel. Same goes for IPS but not as bad. You'll have to go OLED if you want near perfect viewing angles.


----------



## Foxrun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> You'll lose contrast and the colors will wash out some when viewing from the sides but that's normal for a VA panel. Same goes for IPS but not as bad. You'll have to go OLED if you want near perfect viewing angles.


Yeah I second this. It obviously becomes more dramatic depending on the angle too, but again you'll get that with every tv except for oled. In my opinion this is the best PQ you can get compared to OLED right now, and as an added bonus it has 20.9 ms response time which can be on par with a good chunk of monitors.


----------



## mrtbahgs

I'd have to look very closely I guess to see a difference, but I can see my 65" from my kitchen and that is at like an 80 degree side angle. I think it still looks great from that extreme angle and I can tell what I am looking at very easily.

Obviously people wont be viewing from those angles on a normal basis, but the fact I can see clearly for those 30 seconds keeps me impressed. I can post a photo of this if it helps.

I assume most would be watching from 0 to 30 degrees at the most?
I think you'd have to be real picky to notice the color and clarity difference at that more realistic viewing angle.

In response to an earlier comment on going down to 49" instead of 55" because of price, I suppose it is personal opinion, but I HIGHLY advise against going smaller, you will likely regret it down the road and end up wanting a replacement sooner. In my opinion I would put size at the top of my must have list and end up with a slightly lesser quality image if I have to make it fit a budget.

For my recent purchase I went from a 40" and was planning on going 60" without knowing anything on the current market. It seems that the majority of TVs today are jumping from 55" to 65" and skipping over that 60" model. I made sure to get the 65" since going up from 60" was fine, but dropping in size would have eventually been regretted.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I'd have to look very closely I guess to see a difference, but I can see my 65" from my kitchen and that is at like an 80 degree side angle. I think it still looks great from that extreme angle and I can tell what I am looking at very easily.
> 
> Obviously people wont be viewing from those angles on a normal basis, but the fact I can see clearly for those 30 seconds keeps me impressed. I can post a photo of this if it helps.
> 
> I assume most would be watching from 0 to 30 degrees at the most?
> I think you'd have to be real picky to notice the color and clarity difference at that more realistic viewing angle.
> 
> In response to an earlier comment on going down to 49" instead of 55" because of price, I suppose it is personal opinion, but I HIGHLY advise against going smaller, you will likely regret it down the road and end up wanting a replacement sooner. In my opinion I would put size at the top of my must have list and end up with a slightly lesser quality image if I have to make it fit a budget.
> 
> For my recent purchase I went from a 40" and was planning on going 60" without knowing anything on the current market. It seems that the majority of TVs today are jumping from 55" to 65" and skipping over that 60" model. I made sure to get the 65" since going up from 60" was fine, but dropping in size would have eventually been regretted.


Thanks for the long post.

I am set on the 55" KS7000, not going smaller, not going bigger, if I can find it for £800 on Black Friday, it will be mine.

A picture would be nice, just to see the viewing angles in action, I saw the video on RTINGS but it wasn't clear enough to tell.


----------



## MR-e

Sorry boys, I had to leave this KS8000 club. Took the 49" home and was impressed with with the PQ, however, it had a small 7cm strip of light bleeding from the lower left panel. That + being too small at 49" resulted in me taking the panel back. I exchanged for the 65" and found it to be the perfect size. However, the panel was separating when I took it out of the box! Google-fu identified this interesting youtube video where it shows the panel replacement. Mostly just cosmetic and in no way detrimental to the panel.





However, the 65" was also exhibiting some panel uniformity problems + 4 dead pixels which ultimately caused me to return that one too.









At this point, I just said what the hell and took home an OLED 55B6P panel. I would have went with the curved 55C6P, but they're not sold in Canada.







It was picture perfect, ran through 1 - 5% black slides with no vignetting, whites and all colors were uniform with no banding or light bleed. I am very impressed with the color and screen in general. First one was a winner with no dead/stuck pixels and perfect panel quality. I'm sold on OLED going forward. I would have loved to get the 65E6P, but that is way out of the price range. Went with the 55" with future intent to relegate that to bedroom tv once the 65" comes down in price.









Unboxed the 55B6P in my living room to do some basic calibration + firmware updates. Once satisfied, I boxed her back up for storage as we're moving next weekend.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> Sorry boys, I had to leave this KS8000 club. Took the 49" home and was impressed with with the PQ, however, it had a small 7cm strip of light bleeding from the lower left panel. That + being too small at 49" resulted in me taking the panel back. I exchanged for the 65" and found it to be the perfect size. However, the panel was separating when I took it out of the box! Google-fu identified this interesting youtube video where it shows the panel replacement. Mostly just cosmetic and in no way detrimental to the panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, the 65" was also exhibiting some panel uniformity problems + 4 dead pixels which ultimately caused me to return that one too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I just said what the hell and took home an OLED 55B6P panel. I would have went with the curved 55C6P, but they're not sold in Canada.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was picture perfect, ran through 1 - 5% black slides with no vignetting, whites and all colors were uniform with no banding or light bleed. I am very impressed with the color and screen in general. First one was a winner with no dead/stuck pixels and perfect panel quality. I'm sold on OLED going forward. I would have loved to get the 65E6P, but that is way out of the price range. Went with the 55" with future intent to relegate that to bedroom tv once the 65" comes down in price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unboxed the 55B6P in my living room to do some basic calibration + firmware updates. Once satisfied, I boxed her back up for storage as we're moving next weekend.


Jaw droppingly stunning, even a picture of it....

How is the input lag?


----------



## DADDYDC650

Input lag is pretty bad with the B series. Awesome picture though. Too bad about the price.


----------



## MR-e

Input lag can be described as terrible with the B-Series because: 1) it's very high between 50~70MS 2) because it fluctuates and isn't a constant like the C-E-G series OLEDS.

LG is aware of the problem and have stated they're working on a firmware revision regarding the input lag, due at the end of this month. I'm not a hardcore FPS gamer on the TV set, as that's what my PC is for. I just want the casual RPG experience with full hdr eye candy for use with the TV, so the input lag is a non-existent problem in my use case scenario.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Review on LG B6

http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/b6





TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

I'm honestly surprised at the low input lag of this tv even with 4:4:4 chroma enabled. Feels just like my 27" u2713hm.


----------



## 176355

Sooo, pulled the trigger on the 40in KU6290(6300 cheaper version) from BB for $315 and wow, just wow. If the 6290 is this good I can't imagine how great the 8000 must be. I just couldn't justify the cost personally. I have no problems with input lag with [email protected] with UHD Color on. No issues with smearing that I have noticed as well but only had it setup for a day now. As for the size, I'm fairly sure 49in would be too big for my setup. Text looks amazingly smooth and the colors are great compared to the Qnix2710 I was rocking previously. Also haven't noticed any issues with the PWM. I'm not sure how I'll feel in a week or two but I'll try to update.


----------



## iRUSH

I hope for small HDR panels next year. I'm talking 32" range. Interested in this for the next Xbox.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> I hope for small HDR panels next year. I'm talking 32" range. Interested in this for the next Xbox.


40" is best for 4K Windows scaling. Anything less and I'd rather have 3440x1440p.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BearonicMan*
> 
> Sooo, pulled the trigger on the 40in KU6290(6300 cheaper version) from BB for $315 and wow, just wow. If the 6290 is this good I can't imagine how great the 8000 must be. I just couldn't justify the cost personally. I have no problems with input lag with [email protected] with UHD Color on. No issues with smearing that I have noticed as well but only had it setup for a day now. As for the size, I'm fairly sure 49in would be too big for my setup. Text looks amazingly smooth and the colors are great compared to the Qnix2710 I was rocking previously. Also haven't noticed any issues with the PWM. I'm not sure how I'll feel in a week or two but I'll try to update.


Good set. I almost bought one but for a little more than $300 I landed a 49KS8000. Both are beautiful though.


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> 40" is best for 4K Windows scaling. Anything less and I'd rather have 3440x1440p.


I wonder how it works on console? This would be just for the future Xbox. Such a niche request I wonder if such a panel will exist.


----------



## Lass3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> Input lag can be described as terrible with the B-Series because: 1) it's very high between 50~70MS 2) because it fluctuates and isn't a constant like the C-E-G series OLEDS.
> 
> LG is aware of the problem and have stated they're working on a firmware revision regarding the input lag, due at the end of this month. I'm not a hardcore FPS gamer on the TV set, as that's what my PC is for. I just want the casual RPG experience with full hdr eye candy for use with the TV, so the input lag is a non-existent problem in my use case scenario.


The B series uses a weaker ARM chip, I hope this is not the bottleneck and reason for input lag.

LG "promised" a fix - But in my experience LG is very slow with fixes and often they'll never show up.
My 8 year old LG TV in the bedroom, which was high end back then, still has numerous bugs even tho newest firmware has been installed via USB. Not a single bug was fixed. I need to have a different country selected (meaning different timezone / TV showing wrong time - CAN'T BE CHANGED MANUALLY - to be able to search for channels on DVB-C, so stupid).

I just hate when companies don't fix obvious bugs.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I can't afford a KS8000. That is £1500 in the UK. The KS7000 is only £800... And I can't see a big difference, everywhere on the web says it is a 10 bit panel, but displayspecs says it is an 8bit with FCR.
> 
> I really, really want a KS8000, but I just cannot afford it.. Unless I get the 49" version.... Refurbed at £830.


KS7000 = KS8000 in US
KU6400 = KU7000 in US
KU6100 = KU6300 in US

Sony XD80xx = Sony X800D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Can any of you guys comment on the viewing angles, check these reviews here is it really as bad as it is made out to be in those reviews? :/


Viewing angels on VAs are simply horrible.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I'd have to look very closely I guess to see a difference, but I can see my 65" from my kitchen and that is at like an 80 degree side angle. I think it still looks great from that extreme angle and I can tell what I am looking at very easily.
> 
> Obviously people wont be viewing from those angles on a normal basis, but the fact I can see clearly for those 30 seconds keeps me impressed. I can post a photo of this if it helps.
> 
> I assume most would be watching from 0 to 30 degrees at the most?
> I think you'd have to be real picky to notice the color and clarity difference at that more realistic viewing angle.
> 
> In response to an earlier comment on going down to 49" instead of 55" because of price, I suppose it is personal opinion, but I HIGHLY advise against going smaller, you will likely regret it down the road and end up wanting a replacement sooner. In my opinion I would put size at the top of my must have list and end up with a slightly lesser quality image if I have to make it fit a budget.
> 
> For my recent purchase I went from a 40" and was planning on going 60" without knowing anything on the current market. It seems that the majority of TVs today are jumping from 55" to 65" and skipping over that 60" model. I made sure to get the 65" since going up from 60" was fine, but dropping in size would have eventually been regretted.


If you are watching your TV at a 80º angle and see it good then it will probably be an IPS panel.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> KS7000 = KS8000 in US
> KU6400 = KU7000 in US
> KU6100 = KU6300 in US
> 
> Sony XD80xx = Sony X800D
> Viewing angels on VAs are simply horrible.
> If you are watching your TV at a 80º angle and see it good then it will probably be an IPS panel.


I currently have a super old Samsung 40R73BD, the viewing angles are incredible. It was £1600 10 years ago. 8MS response time. Only problem is, it is 1080i. And I have to use 720p on PS4/PC or it defaults to 30hz. Which is utterly awful. I can't aim for crap in BF1. On my PC, it requires an odd resolution to to make the picture fit properly, so it is impossible to use as a day to day monitor. My idea is to replace my current Asus 144hz gsync 27" with this TV and use it as a primary screen, if the viewing angles are truly truly terrible, worse than my current Samsung... I will be pretty unhappy.


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I currently have a super old Samsung 40R73BD, the viewing angles are incredible. It was £1600 10 years ago. 8MS response time. Only problem is, it is 1080i. And I have to use 720p on PS4/PC or it defaults to 30hz. Which is utterly awful. I can't aim for crap in BF1. On my PC, it requires an odd resolution to to make the picture fit properly, so it is impossible to use as a day to day monitor. My idea is to replace my current Asus 144hz gsync 27" with this TV and use it as a primary screen, if the viewing angles are truly truly terrible, worse than my current Samsung... I will be pretty unhappy.


You want to replace your 144hz g-sync for the KS8000? Why? I'm interested in 4k too but I'm a 144hz user. Maybe you can nudge me into 4k ☺

Also the viewing angle topic in regards to gaming. What difference does it make when you're planted in front of the screen? Other than it's neat to look at a screen from a steep angle with IPS vs TN.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> You want to replace your 144hz g-sync for the KS8000? Why? I'm interested in 4k too but I'm a 144hz user. Maybe you can nudge me into 4k ☺
> 
> Also the viewing angle topic in regards to gaming. What difference does it make when you're planted in front of the screen? Other than it's neat to look at a screen from a steep angle with IPS vs TN.


Well this is for myself and my Girlfriend. It is going to be our primary TV for Netflix/PS4/General TV/Movies etc.... I do not get time to sit at my PC anymore and play games. I always end up on the couch on my PS4. Naturally I decided to get the best couch based set-up. Which is this KS7000 (UK). I have seen them demoed in the shop, but only the 49", the viewing angles seemed "okay" but until I actually get it home and run some content on it, I still have no idea what it will be like. Anyway, I will be hooking my PC up to it too, and selling my 144hz as it just does not get the use it should.

I would not try to nudge you into 4k, as personally, if I had the time to sit at my PC, PC would come first... 144hz would come first. But as my life has changed, and requirements change, I anticipate spending more and more time looking at the main TV. So it may as well be a damn good one that can do absolutely everything I want it to, and I am leaning more towards the PS4 Pro than PC gaming because all of my friends are now PS4 converts from PC. As they can't keep updating their rigs to make the new games run. So it becomes a huge hassle to get any PC gaming done with my mates.

The KS7000 (UK), fits the bill perfectly for what I need, I have done months of research, and the only singular TV that makes sense is this. Even the KS7000 is a stretch on my budget, but I know if I spent £400 on a cheapo 4k I would just not be satisfied.

There is a set-up for everyone, if you find yourself watching TV more than going on your PC, it seems a no-brainer to me, to get 4K HDR... I saw Forza Horizon 3, 4K + HDR at a friends house on an Xbox One... and that was on a cheap ass TV with basic HDR, and it looked 1000% better than on my PC... I was genuinely shocked. Which spurred me to want to get this TV.


----------



## iRUSH

^^ great answer!!

I have an X1s too and I quite like it. It's why I'm subbed to this thread because 4k has my attention.

For everyone with HDR experience, is it as great as everyone says it is?

Some have even said that HDR offers a bigger wow factor than the jump to 4k itself.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> ^^ great answer!!
> 
> I have an X1s too and I quite like it. It's why I'm subbed to this thread because 4k has my attention.
> 
> For everyone with HDR experience, is it as great as everyone says it is?
> 
> Some have even said that HDR offers a bigger wow factor than the jump to 4k itself.


Just go into your local store, and take your XB1, they will let you set it up, just take a look at HDR... in gaming... it is absolutely... breathtaking.... Better than 144hz.... better than 4k itself... it makes everything have that pop that you always try to achieve with ENB mods on games like GTA.

 bear in mind that the TV's in the shot are LG... and probably not 10 bit... So maybe just HDR + with FCR.... and it still looks astounding.

Left is no HDR, right is HDR...

You just have to see it in reality.


----------



## iRUSH

^^ Wow! Man maybe I'll bring my Xbox there and try Gears 4.

I guess I better act soon with deals that are out! I'd love a 55-60" KS8000!


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I currently have a super old Samsung 40R73BD, the viewing angles are incredible. It was £1600 10 years ago. 8MS response time. Only problem is, it is 1080i. And I have to use 720p on PS4/PC or it defaults to 30hz. Which is utterly awful. I can't aim for crap in BF1. On my PC, it requires an odd resolution to to make the picture fit properly, so it is impossible to use as a day to day monitor. My idea is to replace my current Asus 144hz gsync 27" with this TV and use it as a primary screen, if the viewing angles are truly truly terrible, worse than my current Samsung... I will be pretty unhappy.


All VA panels have ****ty viewing angles. It is what it is. The thing is that you do not require good viewing angles if you watch the TV from the front. Viewing angles would matter if we were talking, for instance, about a bar or pub in which people sit where they sit and it isn't possible to have the tv in front of everyone.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> ^^ great answer!!
> 
> I have an X1s too and I quite like it. It's why I'm subbed to this thread because 4k has my attention.
> 
> For everyone with HDR experience, is it as great as everyone says it is?
> 
> Some have even said that HDR offers a bigger wow factor than the jump to 4k itself.


Well I should have a PS4 PRO and "sort-of" HDR TV very soon. I'm saying sort of because it features wide colour gamut but not the 1000 nits required for the full HDR10 standard.


----------



## iRUSH

Is there any 4k HDR screens smaller than the KS8000 49"? I'm thinking something for my office lol


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> Is there any 4k HDR screens smaller than the KS8000 49"? I'm thinking something for my office lol


Sony X800D 43" has HDR. Not that it can make particularly good use of it; HDR would just reduce banding and probably enable more colors in HDR content due to the wider color space.


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> Is there any 4k HDR screens smaller than the KS8000 49"? I'm thinking something for my office lol


In Europe we have the 43KS7500 and the 43XD80xx and in the US you have the 43X800D. Though the Sony 43X800D isn't "true" HDR10 because it only gets to 380 nits and not the required 1000 nits that the HDR10 standard requires.

The KS7500 is true HDR10, though.


----------



## Roxborough

Just got the UE55KS7000(UK), it is absolutely amazing! Genuinely the best TV I have ever laid eyes on! I have calibrated movie mode quite well, took a few hours to get perfect. I will share my settings over the weekend to anyone interested.

I have mounted the TV to a pedestal bracket stand, it is so much sturdier than the feet, and I can swivel and tilt. It is marvellous

Gaming mode has produced a very fluid image on the PS4 (non pro, getting the pro for Christmas), I really can't see any input lag at all.

PC mode does generate some noticeable input lag, I haven't had a chance to fiddle with it, but 4k gaming on my PC even with the slight input lag is breathtaking. Leaps and bounds ahead of 1440p in my opinion.

My only singular gripe with it is the fact it keeps randomly telling me to set up my wired connection... it will spam it over and over again... for about ten minutes. Then stops. Any ideas?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Try This:

Smart hub >app settings> push notification settings> > off

TCO


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Try This:
> 
> Smart hub >app settings> push notification settings> > off
> 
> TCO


Thanks, I'll sort it tonight after work.

Any tips on PC mode?


----------



## DADDYDC650

Come to find out that RGB output color format is best for PC gaming. Use YcbCr422 10-12 bit for Ultra HD Blu-Ray movies. Also, you'll need to set sharpness to 50 when in PC mode and not 0 which is recommended for 1080p/4k content when NOT in PC mode. Perhaps this should be posted in the OP?


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Come to find out that RGB output color format is best for PC gaming. For Ultra HD Blu-Ray movies use YcbCr422 10-12 bit. Also, you'll need to set sharpness to 50 when in PC mode and not 0 which is recommended for 1080p/4k content when NOT in PC mode. Perhaps this should be posted in the OP?


I read somewhere to not plug a PC into the PC HDMI port, and use the ARC port. Then set game-mode etc...


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I read somewhere to not plug a PC into the PC HDMI port, and use the ARC port. Then set game-mode etc...


I had no idea the 49KS8000 had an HDMI port on the back. I have my video card connected to the ARC PC port.

Maybe I'm reading your post incorrectly? Why would I not connect the HDMI cable into the PC port on the ARC? Probably because I won't be able to switch to 10-12 bit is my guess. I wonder if I can run PC mode AND 10 bit RGB if I use another HDMI port....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Come to find out that RGB output color format is best for PC gaming. Use YcbCr422 10-12 bit for Ultra HD Blu-Ray movies. Also, you'll need to set sharpness to 50 when in PC mode and not 0 which is recommended for 1080p/4k content when NOT in PC mode. Perhaps this should be posted in the OP?


Source or experience?

TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Source or experience?
> 
> TCO


OP of the KS8000 thread over at AVSforums and I'm guessing RTNGS. I thought 0 was the correct sharpness setting but I knew something was off since it looked a little blurry.


----------



## Foxrun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I read somewhere to not plug a PC into the PC HDMI port, and use the ARC port. Then set game-mode etc...


Switch it to game mode when using the pc for gaming. PC mode has about an added 10ms to input lag over game mode.


----------



## Roxborough

As my PC is plugged into the PC mode HDMI, thus not enabling me to put into game mode, would I still achieve 10-bit colour if I used another HDMI port?


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> As my PC is plugged into the PC mode HDMI, thus not enabling me to put into game mode, would I still achieve 10-bit colour if I used another HDMI port?


I haven't tried it myself to know how to do it or make sure you can, but the trick was to change the settings of the device from PC to something else like a BluRay player and then the system thinks it isn't connected to a PC and allows you to use Game mode.


----------



## MR-e

Guys, I'm back in the game for this screen. The 55" OLED 55B6P was just too small







I couldn't justify the price of the 65" given how close the PQ is with the Sammy for my viewing environment. We rarely, if ever, watch tv/movies in a pure dark room and 90% of our content is from Cable.

So the OLED is kind of _wasted_, but much appreciated in our case. I went back and cherry picked a 65" KS8000 and believe this was the best compromise between budget + screen size


----------



## Foxrun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> As my PC is plugged into the PC mode HDMI, thus not enabling me to put into game mode, would I still achieve 10-bit colour if I used another HDMI port?


Ill double check mine when I get out of work, but its plugged in via HDMI in port 2 which is already labeled as pc. Then I switch the device icon from pc to game console and it changes the screen mode to game.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> Guys, I'm back in the game for this screen. The 55" OLED 55B6P was just too small
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't justify the price of the 65" given how close the PQ is with the Sammy for my viewing environment. We rarely, if ever, watch tv/movies in a pure dark room and 90% of our content is from Cable.
> 
> So the OLED is kind of _wasted_, but much appreciated in our case. I went back and cherry picked a 65" KS8000 and believe this was the best compromise between budget + screen size


Welcome Back MR-e









Just stay on the dark side this time yeah?









TCO


----------



## MR-e

I am very fickle with my electronics, one stank eye from them and they get replaced!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> I am very fickle with my electronics, *one stank eye from them and they get replaced*!












TCO


----------



## Roxborough

I still can't get that wired connection detected spam message off, I have been through every setting now -_-!

I heard it my be my router causing it. Virgin Superhub 2. I have reconfigured it several times, to no avail, TV still spams that message over and over again. It is getting really frustrating!


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I still can't get that wired connection detected spam message off, I have been through every setting now -_-!
> 
> I heard it my be my router causing it. Virgin Superhub 2. I have reconfigured it several times, to no avail, TV still spams that message over and over again. It is getting really frustrating!


I've owned two 65KS8500s and currently own a 49KS8000 and have never seen that message. You should post over in the AVSForums ks8000 thread. I'm sure they'll know what to do.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I still can't get that wired connection detected spam message off, I have been through every setting now -_-!
> 
> I heard it my be my router causing it. Virgin Superhub 2. I have reconfigured it several times, to no avail, TV still spams that message over and over again. It is getting really frustrating!


Are you actually connected via wired ethernet or have something plugged into the slot or is it just popping up even though it is empty?
Maybe a sensor is screwed up inside the slot or something because it does seem weird to have it spam you constantly.


----------



## iRUSH

My father in law took delivery of a KS8000 60" today. It was shipped to my house while his condo is nearly ready to move into.

I setup the TV per Digital Foundrys video. I've tried an UHD Blu-ray as well as some Gears 4 in HDR.

At this point without trying any other settings I can say that my LG 9100 1080p OLED panel looks better. Better color, clarity and far better clarity in motion for gaming.

I've stared at these Samsung TVs forever and have been in this tread since the beginning. I feel like I'm missing something. There's no way 1080p OLED should look better than this KS8000.

So with your help I'm hopeful that you folks can direct my sails.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> My father in law took delivery of a KS8000 60" today. It was shipped to my house while his condo is nearly ready to move into.
> 
> I setup the TV per Digital Foundrys video. I've tried an UHD Blu-ray as well as some Gears 4 in HDR.
> 
> At this point without trying any other settings I can say that my LG 9100 1080p OLED panel looks better. Better color, clarity and far better clarity in motion for gaming.
> 
> I've stared at these Samsung TVs forever and have been in this tread since the beginning. I feel like I'm missing something. There's no way 1080p OLED should look better than this KS8000.
> 
> So with your help I'm hopeful that you folks can direct my sails.


Of course the OLED has better color and motion clarity. But general picture clarity/crispness should be much better due to 4k. You tried Gears of War 4 on a PC set to 4k? Also make sure output dynamic range is set to Full, and RGB mode should be used.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> My father in law took delivery of a KS8000 60" today. It was shipped to my house while his condo is nearly ready to move into.
> 
> I setup the TV per Digital Foundrys video. I've tried an UHD Blu-ray as well as some Gears 4 in HDR.
> 
> At this point without trying any other settings I can say that my LG 9100 1080p OLED panel looks better. Better color, clarity and far better clarity in motion for gaming.
> 
> I've stared at these Samsung TVs forever and have been in this tread since the beginning. I feel like I'm missing something. There's no way 1080p OLED should look better than this KS8000.
> 
> So with your help I'm hopeful that you folks can direct my sails.


If need be I will tell you the settings I use on my own set in detail, though I own neither the game or UHD movies.









TCO


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Of course the OLED has better color and motion clarity. But general picture clarity/crispness should be much better due to 4k. You tried Gears of War 4 on a PC set to 4k? Also make sure output dynamic range is set to Full, and RGB mode should be used.


Negative on the PC but I'll try that next! That I suspect should knock my socks off.

I'll double check the other settings.


----------



## DADDYDC650

A 1080p OLED will look better in a darker room and when sitting farther away or at angles.


----------



## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> Negative on the PC but I'll try that next! That I suspect should knock my socks off.
> 
> I'll double check the other settings.


Why should it look better than a 1080p TV when the game you are playing is in fact in 1080p?

All the One S does is upscale it. That does not mean it's real 4K.


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> Why should it look better than a 1080p TV when the game you are playing is in fact in 1080p?
> 
> All the One S does is upscale it. That does not mean it's real 4K.


Because everyone rants and raves about HDR saying it steals the show. I have read numerous times that HDR provides a better wow factor than the jump to 4K itself.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> Because everyone rants and raves about HDR saying it steals the show. I have read numerous times that HDR provides a better wow factor than the jump to 4K itself.


Yeah that's a farce. I don't think one person would actually believe that when presented the difference. Also, HDR on general edge-lit displays isn't anything to fuss over. It's mostly going to result in less banding, that's about it. Local dimming will make the picture worse most likely, and even the best LCD HDR implementation is trounced by OLED in SDR all things considered.


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Yeah that's a farce. I don't think one person would actually believe that when presented the difference. Also, HDR on general edge-lit displays isn't anything to fuss over. It's mostly going to result in less banding, that's about it. Local dimming will make the picture worse most likely, and even the best LCD HDR implementation is trounced by OLED in SDR all things considered.


If it were anyone else I'd be hesitant to believe this. But you're in all of the threads that discuss best graphics so I have a hunch you know a thing or two.

I can honestly say at this point OLED is amazing. It's nice to be able to compare the two back to back.


----------



## boredgunner

Sell both and get an LG C6 or E6!


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Sell both and get an LG C6 or E6!


Lol the OLED is mine and the KS is my father in law's. I took delivery of it while his condo is getting prepped for their move in.

As good as my OLED looks I'll hold out on 4k personally till the Xbox Scorpio arrives.

Meanwhile I'm going to see what native 4k is about this evening when I connect the PC to the Samsung.


----------



## DADDYDC650

4K is nice but 4k + HDR is great.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

55" KS8000 on Samsung website for 999$

That's cheap.



TCO

EDIT: It appears bestbuy is doing the same deal as well.


----------



## s1rrah

Just a random PSA regarding some outstanding 4K streaming content I've recently discovered ... some of you might already be aware of these but thought I'd mention them because quite frankly, as many are claiming recently, it's some of the finest 4K streamed content currently streaming:

1st: Amazon Prime's "The Grand Tour" ... a show about cars.

2nd: A Netflix release called "Tales by Light" ... a show about photography and photographers.

...

If your looking for some good eye candy, whether you like cars or photographers or not, you owe it to yourself to go check these out because they are a great example of what a good 4K television can reproduce.

I've watched most of Netflix's "official" 4K content, titles such as Luke Cage and Daredevil and Jessica Jones ... and though I adore the productions themselves for their content value? I've just been a bit let down by how well that 4K content renders to my JS9000 TV. Don't get me wrong ... they look fantastic ... especially the HDR ... but there just isn't that "WHOA!" sort of sharpness to the picture that I see all the time in professional 4K demo reels from the likes of LG and Sony (think store display material; you know how amazing that looks).

But the above two mentioned titles? They get real close to the 4K demo reels quality, *scary* close ... especially "The Grand Tour" ...

So check them out if you have Netflix and Amazon Prime Video attached to your 4K TV.

You won't be sorry.

Oh yeah, here's some commentary by a *writer at Forbes* who recently watched "The Grand Tour" ... claims it is the highest quality streamed 4K content he's ever viewed:

Quote:


> "For me, though, as someone with only a passing interest in cars, it wasn't the performance of the showcase Ferrari, McLaren and Porsche 'hyper hybrids' that had my mouth hanging open in awe. Rather it was the way they looked. Or more specifically, it was the way they looked on my TV courtesy of the best 4K and high dynamic range picture quality I've ever seen from a streamed source.
> 
> I'd figured Amazon would probably have put a fair bit of effort into making one of its most high profile shows look the business. But nothing could have prepared me for the truly dazzling images The Grand Tour bombarded me with from its opening shot of a rain-soaked London right through to its closing credits.
> 
> Incredible 4K detailing in every frame joined forces with a sumptuously rich but also subtly shaded expanded colour palette, as well a much more expansive, dynamic and lifelike HDR light range. As a result the sun truly blazed in the skies above the Californian desert. The sun's reflections bounced off the cars with so much intensity you could almost feel the hot metal, fibreglass and carbon fiber running beneath your fingers. Colours radiated with enough intensity to make the cars look as hyper-real and three dimensional as if you were standing there drooling right beside them."
> 
> *SOURCE*


Enjoy and post some thoughts ...

joel


----------



## Shaded War

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 55" KS8000 on Samsung website for 999$
> 
> That's cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: It appears bestbuy is doing the same deal as well.


I'v recently been looking at buying a 4K tv in that size and price range. I can't see any of these fancy HDR / 4K / Quantum Dot displays without driving 50+ miles to Best Buy, so I need to know before hand if this is going to be "worth it" since I would order from the Samsung website without ever seeing it before hand.

My local TV provider is mostly 480p. So the only real benefit for me would be using my PC and gaming on it or streaming 4K video. Is input lag going to be an issue on this display for gaming? In the past I'v had to use PCs on cheaper TV's and the input lag was irritating, even on desktop.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> I'v recently been looking at buying a 4K tv in that size and price range. I can't see any of these fancy HDR / 4K / Quantum Dot displays without driving 50+ miles to Best Buy, so I need to know before hand if this is going to be "worth it" since I would order from the Samsung website without ever seeing it before hand.
> 
> My local TV provider is mostly 480p. So the only real benefit for me would be using my PC and gaming on it or streaming 4K video. Is input lag going to be an issue on this display for gaming? In the past I'v had to use PCs on cheaper TV's and the input lag was irritating, even on desktop.


What is irritating input lagwise?

20ms on Game mode from Console, and 37ms from PC mode is what the TV offers.

TCO


----------



## Shaded War

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> I'v recently been looking at buying a 4K tv in that size and price range. I can't see any of these fancy HDR / 4K / Quantum Dot displays without driving 50+ miles to Best Buy, so I need to know before hand if this is going to be "worth it" since I would order from the Samsung website without ever seeing it before hand.
> 
> My local TV provider is mostly 480p. So the only real benefit for me would be using my PC and gaming on it or streaming 4K video. Is input lag going to be an issue on this display for gaming? In the past I'v had to use PCs on cheaper TV's and the input lag was irritating, even on desktop.
> 
> 
> 
> What is irritating input lagwise?
> 
> 20ms on Game mode from Console, and 37ms from PC mode is what the TV offers.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

I'm not sure how much input lag there was since it was a friend's 42" Vizio with that faux 120Hz. My mouse movements felt really inaccurate like the mouse wasn't moving where my brain predicted it should. It felt unusable for me since even clicking on desktop icons was a struggle without having to correct my mouse movements that didn't go where I felt they should. My friend doesn't even notice it and is completely fine with it, so I don't really know. I just assumed it was because of input lag, since this has never been an issue when I use monitors.

I decided to go ahead and order this TV and give it a shot. My current TV is over 7 years old now and and I just want something newer with better features. Hopefully the input lag isn't noticeable so I can play some games like The Witcher, Fallout, and Skyrim in 4K and see what all the hype is about.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> I'm not sure how much input lag there was since it was a friend's 42" Vizio with that faux 120Hz. My mouse movements felt really inaccurate like the mouse wasn't moving where my brain predicted it should. It felt unusable for me since even clicking on desktop icons was a struggle without having to correct my mouse movements that didn't go where I felt they should. My friend doesn't even notice it and is completely fine with it, so I don't really know. I just assumed it was because of input lag, since this has never been an issue when I use monitors.
> 
> I decided to go ahead and order this TV and give it a shot. My current TV is over 7 years old now and and I just want something newer with better features. Hopefully the input lag isn't noticeable so I can play some games like The Witcher, Fallout, and Skyrim in 4K and see what all the hype is about.


Keep us updated and welcome to the club. I highly doubt you will be disappointed. Remember to cbeck the OP for settings and advice.

TCO


----------



## Shaded War

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Keep us updated and welcome to the club. I highly doubt you will be disappointed. Remember to cbeck the OP for settings and advice.
> 
> TCO


Thanks! I'm sure it will be great when it gets here.

I have questions about some of the newer tech features though. Does HDR work from a PC on a GTX 1080? Also, what content has support for it? Researching HDR, it all seems so confusing with conflicting standards or weather certain TVs are even truly HDR capable.

I'm also not sure what 4:4:4 is.

Lastly, does anyone know if the original glossy PS4 is able to use HDR? I saw an option for it in the new Final Fantasy but it was grayed out.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> Thanks! I'm sure it will be great when it gets here.
> 
> I have questions about some of the newer tech features though. Does HDR work from a PC on a GTX 1080? Also, what content has support for it? Researching HDR, it all seems so confusing with conflicting standards or weather certain TVs are even truly HDR capable.
> 
> I'm also not sure what 4:4:4 is.
> 
> Lastly, does anyone know if the original glossy PS4 is able to use HDR? I saw an option for it in the new Final Fantasy but it was grayed out.


I am pretty sure a 1080 will support HDR as long as the game does as well, but not sure if it has to be DX12 or what.

To view movies and tv shows in 4k with or without HDR you need to use the native apps on the TV itself though.
Streaming them from the PC's browser will only give 720p or maybe 1080p depending on the browser and steaming source.
Netflix, Hulu, and Amazon Prime would be the main streaming services and all should have an app on the TV.
I don't believe Hulu has any 4k content, but it will still upscale to 4k.
YouTube has 4k content and MAY work from the PC, but otherwise there is a YT app as well on the TV.

This TV is certainly full HDR, it allows for the full range of brightness for the standard, but not all source material has HDR.

4:4:4 is a chroma standard that I can't explain all that well, but it is basically color accuracy and 4:4:4 is the best you can get as far as I know.
The other two that I know of is 4:2:2 which is still pretty decent and then 4:2:0 is the lowest end.
I didn't watch it, but this video may explain it for you if you are interested:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JYZDnenaGc

I know nothing about the PS4, but I doubt they would be able or want to flash some update to make the old version support HDR, they would rather make you buy a new console that supports it.


----------



## Foxrun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> Thanks! I'm sure it will be great when it gets here.
> 
> I have questions about some of the newer tech features though. Does HDR work from a PC on a GTX 1080? Also, what content has support for it? Researching HDR, it all seems so confusing with conflicting standards or weather certain TVs are even truly HDR capable.
> 
> I'm also not sure what 4:4:4 is.
> 
> Lastly, does anyone know if the original glossy PS4 is able to use HDR? I saw an option for it in the new Final Fantasy but it was grayed out.


Sony has said that in a future update all ps4 models will be able to do HDR to maintain parity between them.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Are you actually connected via wired ethernet or have something plugged into the slot or is it just popping up even though it is empty?
> Maybe a sensor is screwed up inside the slot or something because it does seem weird to have it spam you constantly.


The TV's internet relies on the Ethernet, it is plugged directly into the Ethernet port on the back of the TV. Even with it plugged in, it constantly tells me "a network cable has been detected, do you want to set it up" etc... I have to spam no, or it takes me out of the content I am watching, this happens roughly once every hour. Which has lead me to believe it is my router with some kind if leasing issue, and the TV may refresh to save power (even though all eco mode stuff is off)

I have tried to contact Virgin in the UK, but I couldn't get through to speak to anyone, and when I did, the phone died... So I had to start all over again, I just gave up. I will ask them for a new router as I am running up to the end of my contract now.

Furthermore...

After having the TV for over a week now, I am starting to notice how utterly terrible a lot of content is. Through Netflix and anything built into the TV it upscales nicely and looks sharp and crisp. But anything less than 1080p on my PC, has horrendous motion blur, judder and looks like a cam video.

I tried the PC in game mode, games with deep green trees have a lot of issues (Skyrim, BF4). There is a noticeable flicker switching between greens to light colours in motion. I have tried a bunch of settings to alleviate this, but I can't seem to get rid of it. Maybe it is my PC end since the driver update for Watch Dogs 2. I don't know, will do more fiddling tonight.

If I put it back into Dynamic mode, the colours look amazing on stationary images, but when I play YouTube video's in 4K, everyone's faces are too bright, I have altered settings again to remove this, but I can't seem to find the right setting. HDR+ mode is awful too, I guess I need proper HDR content for this.

I am still yet to set this TV into 10-bit mode on my PC. In Nvidia settings, it still only allows 8-bit colour. Then it dawned on me, I hadn't actually double checked the box from Richer Sounds in the UK... My model is the KS7000U. Which I believe is Russian. I was hoping this was the same TV, but after some research, I can't find any translated Russian page that actually states this TV is a 10-bit panel. Edit: Found the TV on a Russian site it does state it as a 10-bit panel. I'm now pretty confident this is the same TV.

On a more positive note, 4K content on Netflix looks amazing, as does my PS4. My PC gaming experience hasn't been so fruitful though. Contemplating downgrading the PC, as I actually think my PS4 looks better than the PC in some games. Maybe I just have the wrong settings, but... the way the TV upscales the 1080 content (or just displays 1080) on the PS4 is so crisp and clear, and game mode looks better than it does on PC too. Obviously 4k Crysis 3 looks incredible, but it is almost unplayable on a GTX 980ti and the menu's are messed up when they are upscaled.

If I am to be brutally honest, PC's & TV's just do not mix without hours of fiddling. My Girlfriend is fed up of me changing the settings all the time depending on the content. *The TV has performed amazingly well when I get the right settings*. and it has really fit the bill as a monitor, as there is minimal input lag in game-mode, but I just cannot recommend TV's as PC monitors, because the content changes that frequently, you spend more time in menu's than watching the content. I miss being able to put a film on and not have to fiddle.







Does anyone have any ideas?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Roxborough

Here is a FAQ About settings in the AVSForum.

TCO


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @Roxborough
> 
> Here is a FAQ About settings in the AVSForum.
> 
> TCO


I have read through the entirety of these, and tried all of the settings. I think it is just the content I am watching. And something my PC end. But I definitely cannot get 10-bit mode on PC.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I have read through the entirety of these, and tried all of the settings. I think it is just the content I am watching. And something my PC end. But I definitely cannot get 10-bit mode on PC.


Don't think you can get 10 bit using PC mode. What difference would it make unless you are a graphics artist?


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Don't think you can get 10 bit using PC mode. What difference would it make unless you are a graphics artist?


I do a lot of modelling and renders in work, AutoCAD and Photoshop etc... I would like to see how things print out with the most accurate colour. Brick matching is difficult across screens etc... So it would help me those times that I work at home.

I am not using PC-Mode anymore as I don't like the input lag. I don't get why the PC-Mode has higher input lag than standard anyway.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I do a lot of modelling and renders in work, AutoCAD and Photoshop etc... I would like to see how things print out with the most accurate colour. Brick matching is difficult across screens etc... So it would help me those times that I work at home.
> 
> I am not using PC-Mode anymore as I don't like the input lag. I don't get why the PC-Mode has higher input lag than standard anyway.


You must have owned a TN panel before this because I don't notice much input lag in PC mode.

I can't seem to get 10 bit mode working as well. I wonder if it has to do with our HDMI cables. Could be that Nvidia currently does not allow it as well.\

Seems like you might need a Quadro card to enable 10 bit....


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> You must have owned a TN panel before this because I don't notice much input lag in PC mode.
> 
> I can't seem to get 10 bit mode working as well. I wonder if it has to do with our HDMI cables. Could be that Nvidia currently does not allow it as well.\
> 
> Seems like you might need a Quadro card to enable 10 bit....


Yeah, I have a g-sync monitor, that is what I am used to lol.

And this is the cable I have. It was recommended by the guys at Richer Sounds. I was dubious, but it is apparently the best you can buy!

Quote from here:

"He,

although recently there is an option to activate 10bit on windows even with gtx and not only quadro drivers (NVIDIA Control Panel->Change Resolution->Output color depth->10bpc), the real problem is this:

>Windows 8, Win 8.1, and Windows 10 do not and all MAC OSes do not; I repeat do not support 30 bit output.
>
>Windows 7 is the only OS that did and Aero needed to be disabled to do so. I believe Linux also supports 30 bit color output.
from: https://forums.adobe.com/thread/1295887?start=40&tstart=0

Sometimes when you look behind all the marketing and PR you sadly have to realise that even though spending $$$ (4K 10bit monitor on apple/win) you actually don't get what you got promised and you actually can't do anything because too many people blindly believe it without testing it themselves so companies won't fix it because people still buy anyhow...







"


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Yeah, I have a g-sync monitor, that is what I am used to lol.
> 
> And this is the cable I have. It was recommended by the guys at Richer Sounds. I was dubious, but it is apparently the best you can buy!


Change the output color format to YcbCR 422 or 420 to enable 10 bit or 12 bit color. Text will look like crap on PC though.\

BTW, you got ripped off on that cable. I'm running an Amazon Basics HDMI cable which I bought for $5.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Yeah, I have a g-sync monitor, that is what I am used to lol.
> 
> And this is the cable I have. It was recommended by the guys at Richer Sounds. I was dubious, but it is apparently the best you can buy!
> 
> Quote from here:
> 
> "He,
> 
> although recently there is an option to activate 10bit on windows even with gtx and not only quadro drivers (NVIDIA Control Panel->Change Resolution->Output color depth->10bpc), the real problem is this:
> 
> >Windows 8, Win 8.1, and Windows 10 do not and all MAC OSes do not; I repeat do not support 30 bit output.
> >
> >Windows 7 is the only OS that did and Aero needed to be disabled to do so. I believe Linux also supports 30 bit color output.
> from: https://forums.adobe.com/thread/1295887?start=40&tstart=0
> 
> Sometimes when you look behind all the marketing and PR you sadly have to realise that even though spending $$$ (4K 10bit monitor on apple/win) you actually don't get what you got promised and you actually can't do anything because too many people blindly believe it without testing it themselves so companies won't fix it because people still buy anyhow...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "


I disagree with the Cable choice as well, as I run Premium Certified Monoprice Cables. Actually did a write up on HDMI Cables, link in my siggy.

I read the same thing about Windows Aero not supporting the 10bit, but really have yet to dive in on the subject.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> *Change the output color format to YcbCR 422 or 420 to enable 10 bit or 12 bit color.* Text will look like crap on PC though.\
> 
> BTW, you got ripped off on that cable. I'm running an Amazon Basics HDMI cable which I bought for $5.


Reference to this?

TCO


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> You must have owned a TN panel before this because I don't notice much input lag in PC mode.
> 
> I can't seem to get 10 bit mode working as well. I wonder if it has to do with our HDMI cables. Could be that Nvidia currently does not allow it as well.\
> 
> Seems like you might need a Quadro card to enable 10 bit....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Change the output color format to YcbCR 422 or 420 to enable 10 bit or 12 bit color. Text will look like crap on PC though.\
> 
> BTW, you got ripped off on that cable. I'm running an Amazon Basics HDMI cable which I bought for $5.


I am well aware I got ripped off on the cable, I can't argue its quality though, it was basically free with the TV on black friday as part of a deal.

Anyway, I have changed the output format to 422/420 and it does not enable it in the dropdown still.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I am well aware I got ripped off on the cable, I can't argue its quality though, it was basically free with the TV on black friday as part of a deal.
> 
> Anyway, I have changed the output format to 422/420 and it does not enable it in the dropdown still.


Here is a discussion about 10 bit, Short but sweet

TCO


----------



## Roxborough

Have a look at this. It can't be that bad.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I am well aware I got ripped off on the cable, I can't argue its quality though, it was basically free with the TV on black friday as part of a deal.
> 
> Anyway, I have changed the output format to 422/420 and it does not enable it in the dropdown still.


Did you take it out of PC mode? Change your source to game console for example.

That "review" sounds like marketing. My $5 cable performs exactly the same if not better since I can enable 10 bit/12 bit.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Did you take it out of PC mode? Change your source to game console for example.
> 
> That "review" sounds like marketing. My $5 cable performs exactly the same if not better since I can enable 10 bit/12 bit.


Yes I have confirmed this throughout this discussion. I am currently in Blueray mode, but I have tried every combination of setting I can think of.

This cable definitely lets you do 10-bit. I am sure it is Windows 10 related.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Yes I have confirmed this throughout this discussion. I am currently in Blueray mode, but I have tried every combination of setting I can think of.
> 
> This cable definitely lets you do 10-bit. I am sure it is Windows 10 related.


Must be something on your end. I have no issues enabling 10 bit or 12 bit under Windows 10.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Anyone know what the input lag is with 4:4:4 enabled WITH GAME mode? I didn't think it was possible to enable game mode with 4:4:4 but it sure is....


----------



## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Anyone know what the input lag is with 4:4:4 enabled WITH GAME mode? I didn't think it was possible to enable game mode with 4:4:4 but it sure is....


You can't enable game mode while being in PC mode (needed for 4:4:4)


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> You can't enable game mode while being in PC mode (needed for 4:4:4)


I've got 4:4:4 enabled in game mode (not pc mode).


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> The TV's internet relies on the Ethernet, it is plugged directly into the Ethernet port on the back of the TV. Even with it plugged in, it constantly tells me "a network cable has been detected, do you want to set it up" etc... I have to spam no, or it takes me out of the content I am watching, this happens roughly once every hour. Which has lead me to believe it is my router with some kind if leasing issue, and the TV may refresh to save power (even though all eco mode stuff is off)
> 
> I have tried to contact Virgin in the UK, but I couldn't get through to speak to anyone, and when I did, the phone died... So I had to start all over again, I just gave up. I will ask them for a new router as I am running up to the end of my contract now.


I assume you cannot connect via Wifi instead then?

Have you tried contacting Samsung support to verify it isn't an issue with the TV somehow not sensing the cable for a moment and then when it does sense it again it thinks you just plugged it in?

From the US I was able to just call them up before like 6pm and I got to a person pretty quick to answer a question I had in the past.
It's worth a shot if you haven't tried it already and see what they say.


----------



## Foxrun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> I've got 4:4:4 enabled in game mode (not pc mode).


Same here without any trouble at all. I think the input lag is around 20-22ms as long as it is in game mode, but rtings doesnt have a rating for that specific scenario.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Must be something on your end. I have no issues enabling 10 bit or 12 bit under Windows 10.


I have finally solved it. I uninstalled my Nvidia drivers, completely. Reinstalled the latest drivers. Hey presto, 10-bit is now displayed under YcBCr. Initially I had just updated, but this was a full clean install. 10-bit does not display blurry text either. And when I calibrated it, the colours were pretty accurate. I am very very happy.

Thanks for all your help guys, it is much appreciated!


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I have finally solved it. I uninstalled my Nvidia drivers, completely. Reinstalled the latest drivers. Hey presto, 10-bit is now displayed under YcBCr. Initially I had just updated, but this was a full clean install. 10-bit does not display blurry text either. And when I calibrated it, the colours were pretty accurate. I am very very happy.
> 
> Thanks for all your help guys, it is much appreciated!


Glad you worked it out!

BTW, the text isn't blurry in 10 bit mode but you can tell it's not 4:4:4. I'm now running in game mode with 4:4:4 enabled/RGB/Full. Looks awesome and gameplay is very smooth with very little input lag. Feels just like my last monitor.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Glad you worked it out!
> 
> BTW, the text isn't blurry in 10 bit mode but you can tell it's not 4:4:4. I'm now running in game mode with 4:4:4 enabled/RGB/Full. Looks awesome and gameplay is very smooth with very little input lag. Feels just like my last monitor.


Yeah that is the mode I use for gaming. I just needed a mode to use for renders/AutoCAD with accurate colours.

I set the sharpness to 100 in Game-Mode (even though a lot of people's settings use 0, I think it looks better), contrast to 100. Backlight to 20, and brightness to 55, looks pretty damn good. What do you use?


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Yeah that is the mode I use for gaming. I just needed a mode to use for renders/AutoCAD with accurate colours.
> 
> I set the sharpness to 100 in Game-Mode (even though a lot of people's settings use 0, I think it looks better), contrast to 100. Backlight to 20, and brightness to 55, looks pretty damn good. What do you use?


I use my 49KS8000 as my primary monitor so I keep the backlight between 1-4 depending on lighting, contrast at 95, sharpness at 0, color tone at warm 1 and everything else off. I like my accuracy.


----------



## Stige

I just got the 55KS7005 (EU version of KS8000) and I find the colors... disappointing to say atleast. My IPS Panel QNIX QX2710 has very good colors compared to this, it's all so washed out and blacks are clearly gray, especially if there is other color than black on screen for some reason.

Tried so many settings and adjustments but so hard to get them to even resemble black where as my PC Monitor actually looks like black even though it's old and IPS.

I just came from my moms house and I gave her my old 42" Panasonic and I would even dare to say the colors on that were better than on this KS8000...


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I just got the 55KS7005 (EU version of KS8000) and I find the colors... disappointing to say atleast. My IPS Panel QNIX QX2710 has very good colors compared to this, it's all so washed out and blacks are clearly gray, especially if there is other color than black on screen for some reason.
> 
> Tried so many settings and adjustments but so hard to get them to even resemble black where as my PC Monitor actually looks like black even though it's old and IPS.
> 
> I just came from my moms house and I gave her my old 42" Panasonic and I would even dare to say the colors on that were better than on this KS8000...


That is very odd, my blacks are very good, sometimes they are so black, I think the TV is actually off lol, I have the KS7000U. Much better than my ROG Swift, and my old LG IPS even. Do you have auto-dimming or eco modes on? Share your full settings, and maybe we can solve it between us all.


----------



## 176355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I just got the 55KS7005 (EU version of KS8000) and I find the colors... disappointing to say atleast. My IPS Panel QNIX QX2710 has very good colors compared to this, it's all so washed out and blacks are clearly gray, especially if there is other color than black on screen for some reason.
> 
> Tried so many settings and adjustments but so hard to get them to even resemble black where as my PC Monitor actually looks like black even though it's old and IPS.


I'm also coming from a QNIX 2710 and was honestly blown away by the KU6290(not even a KS8000) in just overall image quality comparatively. It's a bit strange to hear your issues with a higher end panel.


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I just got the 55KS7005 (EU version of KS8000) and I find the colors... disappointing to say atleast. My IPS Panel QNIX QX2710 has very good colors compared to this, it's all so washed out and blacks are clearly gray, especially if there is other color than black on screen for some reason.
> 
> Tried so many settings and adjustments but so hard to get them to even resemble black where as my PC Monitor actually looks like black even though it's old and IPS.
> 
> I just came from my moms house and I gave her my old 42" Panasonic and I would even dare to say the colors on that were better than on this KS8000...


I'm right there with you. I have a KS8000 60" for the next few weeks. I either can't seem to get the settings right or my 1080p OLED screen just shows how much better OLED technology is.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> I'm right there with you. I have a KS8000 60" for the next few weeks. I either can't seem to get the settings right or my 1080p OLED screen just shows how much better OLED technology is.


You can't compare OLED's contrast and colors with LED... You've been told this already. Only way the KS8000 would beat your OLED is if you are sitting a couple of feet away, center view and watched proper HDR content.

As for a QNIX beating out this TV, sure..... Maybe if you are watching the TV at pretty wide angle.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Only way the KS8000 would beat your OLED is if you are sitting a couple of feet away, center view and watched proper HDR content.


And the KS8000 would still lose except for resolution clarity, unless he's in a very bright room.


----------



## 176355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> As for a QNIX beating out this TV, sure..... Maybe if you are watching the TV at pretty wide angle.


I must have had a crap Qnix or some crazy use case then because I spent hours trying to get a good picture out of it; different ICC profiles, back light levels, and any other setting you can think of through windows\nVidia control panel. The Samsung seems a lot better to me so far. I'm sitting about ~3 feet from the 40in, was probably 6-10in closer to the Qnix if I had to guess.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> And the KS8000 would still lose except for resolution clarity, unless he's in a very bright room.


It wouldn't lose if he sat close enough like I mentioned and watched proper HDR content in a well lit room which you stated. Point is, OLED is better PICTURE WISE which anyone should know by now. As for a regular 1440p, IPS panel beating out the latest VA with quantum tech and 4k res, no.

Honestly, nobody here would settle for an IPS or VA panel if it wasn't for OLED"s very high prices and crap input lag.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> It wouldn't lose if he sat close enough like I mentioned and watched proper HDR content in a well lit room which you stated. Point is, OLED is better PICTURE WISE which anyone should know by now. As for a regular 1440p, IPS panel beating out the latest VA with quantum tech and 4k res, no.
> 
> Honestly, nobody here would settle for an IPS or VA panel if it wasn't for OLED"s very high prices and crap input lag.


Input lag has nothing to do with panel type. LG's latest firmware update now results in 34ms input lag with or without HDR, in game mode (with chroma 4:4:4 too). That's as low as any TV. It's really just price and maybe brightness for some people that are deterrents.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Input lag has nothing to do with panel type. LG's latest firmware update now results in 34ms input lag with or without HDR, in game mode (with chroma 4:4:4 too). That's as low as any TV. It's really just price and maybe brightness for some people that are deterrents.


I know input lag has nothing to do with panel type. Just so happens that LG OLED's suffer from bad input lag. Even with the latest firmware it fluctuates between 34-50 from what I've read. The KS8000 has an input lag of 21ms which is pretty amazing for a TV. Plus you can't really use OLED as a primary monitor since they suffer from image retention and they also cost an arm and a leg.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> I know input lag has nothing to do with panel type. Just so happens that LG OLED's suffer from bad input lag. Even with the latest firmware it fluctuates between 34-50 from what I've read. The KS8000 has an input lag of 21ms which is pretty amazing for a TV. Plus you can't really use OLED as a primary monitor since they suffer from image retention and they also cost an arm and a leg.


You can use 2016 LG OLED TVs as a monitor, their anti-retention methods are extremely effective. I only know one person with a 2016 model OLED, he uses it primarily has a monitor and has had zero retention. Only had it for about a week so far but I'll keep bugging him about it.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> That is very odd, my blacks are very good, sometimes they are so black, I think the TV is actually off lol, I have the KS7000U. Much better than my ROG Swift, and my old LG IPS even. Do you have auto-dimming or eco modes on? Share your full settings, and maybe we can solve it between us all.


Yeah obvious stuff but I do have everything eco related etc off.

I have tried Smart LED on like every setting, dynamic contrast off, googled a few different settings but still not satisfied with it, looking at my desktop on both TV and QNIX make me cry








It really is just that much better on my QNIX, for now atleast. Not washed out at all like the TV feels like.

I'll post my current settings tomorrow or something, see if we can work them out somehow to actually get some blacks on it, or something that resembles black atleast cause it's no OLED yeah but I think it shouldn't lose to my Korean IPS monitor in colors either.

Also need to have a look at Lagom tomorrow on my TV, see what it looks like cause my monitor is like spot on there.


----------



## Foxrun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Input lag has nothing to do with panel type. LG's latest firmware update now results in 34ms input lag with or without HDR, in game mode (with chroma 4:4:4 too). That's as low as any TV. It's really just price and maybe brightness for some people that are deterrents.


34ms is still too high for anything above casual gaming. OLED pictures look very nice but the input lag is too high to make it a dedicated gaming tv. Maybe my eyes are bad, but you'll be hard pressed in seeing a substantial difference between the KS8000 and OLED. There is no reason to get an OLED over the VA LED when the price difference is as big as it is. My opinion is purely from a gaming perspective.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foxrun*
> 
> 34ms is still too high for anything above casual gaming. OLED pictures look very nice but the input lag is too high to make it a dedicated gaming tv. Maybe my eyes are bad, but you'll be hard pressed in seeing a substantial difference between the KS8000 and OLED. There is no reason to get an OLED over the VA LED when the price difference is as big as it is. My opinion is purely from a gaming perspective.


Your opinion is from a _competitive_ gaming perspective. I notice most PC gamers when talking about displays can only see that perspective, and not the immersive gaming perspective I speak from. If we want to take the competitive gaming angle further, some can say any TV is unsuitable for competitive gaming, and VA is unsuitable. People say that a lot actually.

I can handle 34ms and I'm the opposite of a casual gamer, but I don't play any competitive FPS. The image quality difference is huge, practically everyone sees it. The motion clarity difference is huge too; shame on me for becoming anal about motion clarity since a year ago I wasn't at all. These two things, especially the picture quality superiority, make OLED a massive benefit for my gaming experience.

But then there's the price, and also the size. For these reasons (especially size) all OLEDs aren't feasible for me anyway.


----------



## Shaded War

Been waiting all day for delivery of the 55" KS8000 I ordered from the Samsung website, and now FedEx changed delivery to Pending with no delivery date. I'v never ordered a TV and had it shipped, so now all I'm thinking about is the TV got smashed or something and they don't want to deliver it. Going by the FedEx shipping size dimensions, Samsung shipped the TV in the plain box without any extra outer box with more padding.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> Been waiting all day for delivery of the 55" KS8000 I ordered from the Samsung website, and now FedEx changed delivery to Pending with no delivery date. I'v never ordered a TV and had it shipped, so now all I'm thinking about is the TV got smashed or something and they don't want to deliver it. Going by the FedEx shipping size dimensions, Samsung shipped the TV in the plain box without any extra outer box with more padding.


I believe the normal way to ship is to have the manufacturer's box strapped to a pallet or secured tightly against the wall of the truck.
I know my 65" was not double boxed.

Not to alarm you, but yes I have seen a few people have the unfortunate experience of receiving a cracked screen.
The best thing you can do is have the delivery guy wait 5 minutes while you safely remove the TV for an inspection of the screen. That way, if cracked, you can just refuse delivery.
Even though the box may look to be in perfect condition, it does not mean the screen is perfect. They are very thin and have multiple layers so they are sensitive.

Was there an update stating it was in your city and out for delivery today? Perhaps it was just delayed in general.
If you haven't already, try contacting them via phone or online chat if they have one and see if there is any other info on their end.

I agree that after making a big purchase, the wait can really suck and i do hope that nothing is wrong with your set, but this TV is also worth the wait.


----------



## Foxrun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredgunner*
> 
> Your opinion is from a _competitive_ gaming perspective. I notice most PC gamers when talking about displays can only see that perspective, and not the immersive gaming perspective I speak from. If we want to take the competitive gaming angle further, some can say any TV is unsuitable for competitive gaming, and VA is unsuitable. People say that a lot actually.
> 
> I can handle 34ms and I'm the opposite of a casual gamer, but I don't play any competitive FPS. The image quality difference is huge, practically everyone sees it. The motion clarity difference is huge too; shame on me for becoming anal about motion clarity since a year ago I wasn't at all. These two things, especially the picture quality superiority, make OLED a massive benefit for my gaming experience.
> 
> But then there's the price, and also the size. For these reasons (especially size) all OLEDs aren't feasible for me anyway.


To each his own. I agree that the picture quality is better but not that much better than some high end LED panels. Motion handling without a doubt is incredible on an OLED, and as soon as they start making OLED monitors Ill be all over it. A high input lag breaks the immersion for me. Im not a big competitive gamer but when I am playing Skyrim, Witcher, Tomb Raider etc and my aiming or camera panning feels off then the enjoyable experience becomes frustrating because that delay is all I focus on. If OLED had lower input lag then I would bought one of those sets, but these high end Samsung's definitely can compete with an OLED display.


----------



## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> I've got 4:4:4 enabled in game mode (not pc mode).


You should check reviews,the only way to get proper 4:4:4 on Samsung TV's is with PC mode.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> You should check reviews,the only way to get proper 4:4:4 on Samsung TV's is with PC mode.


My experience sais otherwise.Text looks exactly the same in game mode with 4:4:4 and PC mode with 4:4:4. I can tell immediately when 4:4:4 isn't enabled because text looks like crap.


----------



## Stige

I guess Lagom is useless, the browser doesnt seem affected by any picture settings at all?

Picture Mode Movie
Backlight 15
Brightness 40
Contrast 100
Sharpness 0
Colour 50
Digital clean view Off
Motion Plus Off
Smart LED Low
Film mode Off
Color Tone Warm2
Dynamic Contrast Off
Gamma 0
RGB Only Off
Color Space Auto

These are the settings I use.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I guess Lagom is useless, the browser doesnt seem affected by any picture settings at all?
> 
> Picture Mode Movie
> Backlight 15
> Brightness 40
> Contrast 100
> Sharpness 0
> Colour 50
> Digital clean view Off
> Motion Plus Off
> Smart LED Low
> Film mode Off
> Color Tone Warm2
> Dynamic Contrast Off
> Gamma 0
> RGB Only Off
> Color Space Auto
> 
> These are the settings I use.


I dont have all of my settings memorized, but I know that movie mode added like a yellow film over the screen that did not appeal to me.
I believe Warm 2 also does the same.

I should add, I use my TV for TV/movies and not gaming so that may be a difference on preferences maybe.
I have streamed things from my PC to the TV, but again it would be TV/Movies and not gaming in front of it.

I am pretty sure I have settled on Standard mode (the 2nd of the 4 options iirc) and warm 1.
Then the other options I can look into later, but I am thinking some are Smart LED High and Dynamic Contract High or On.
To me this makes the picture look great and the whites actually look white. I don't recall ever have an issue with blacks, but they should certainly be fine with these for me too.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Went back to PC mode. Picture looks the best to me and input lag is perfectly fine. Feels like my Dell U2713HM IPS monitor.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I dont have all of my settings memorized, but I know that movie mode added like a yellow film over the screen that did not appeal to me.
> I believe Warm 2 also does the same.
> 
> I should add, I use my TV for TV/movies and not gaming so that may be a difference on preferences maybe.
> I have streamed things from my PC to the TV, but again it would be TV/Movies and not gaming in front of it.
> 
> I am pretty sure I have settled on Standard mode (the 2nd of the 4 options iirc) and warm 1.
> Then the other options I can look into later, but I am thinking some are Smart LED High and Dynamic Contract High or On.
> To me this makes the picture look great and the whites actually look white. I don't recall ever have an issue with blacks, but they should certainly be fine with these for me too.


It feels like anything but Warm2 is like blue, bluer, bluest lol, its the only one that doesnt feel like it has a blue tint on it.
And wasnt Dynamic Contrast in the past like the worst thing ever? I do think with Smat LED High and Dynamic Contrast High it makes movies look a lot more vivid instead of so bland.

Also I think my biggest mistake so far has been watching Luke Cage which is apparently reaöly bad looking for everyone else too.


----------



## 176355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Also I think my biggest mistake so far has been watching Luke Cage which is apparently reaöly bad looking for everyone else too.


I watched The Neon Demon on Amazon prime this weekend on my new TV and it was pretty spectacular.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Factory Reset Option for reference.

http://www.samsung.com/au/support/skp/faq/1116455



On the above picture, where it says Dynamic, Tv Speaker out put, etc, my TV doesn't display those options anymore, they are all blank, I will attempt a Factory Reset tonight or later on to see if I can get them to come back.

TCO


----------



## Shaded War

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I believe the normal way to ship is to have the manufacturer's box strapped to a pallet or secured tightly against the wall of the truck.
> I know my 65" was not double boxed.
> 
> Not to alarm you, but yes I have seen a few people have the unfortunate experience of receiving a cracked screen.
> The best thing you can do is have the delivery guy wait 5 minutes while you safely remove the TV for an inspection of the screen. That way, if cracked, you can just refuse delivery.
> Even though the box may look to be in perfect condition, it does not mean the screen is perfect. They are very thin and have multiple layers so they are sensitive.
> 
> Was there an update stating it was in your city and out for delivery today? Perhaps it was just delayed in general.
> If you haven't already, try contacting them via phone or online chat if they have one and see if there is any other info on their end.
> 
> I agree that after making a big purchase, the wait can really suck and i do hope that nothing is wrong with your set, but this TV is also worth the wait.


Apparently it's delayed because of the snow we recently got. But I just looked and UPS is making deliveries and was delayed for less than 12 hours. FedEx is pretty pathetic if some snow is going to cause them to shut down for days.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> Apparently it's delayed because of the snow we recently got. But I just looked and UPS is making deliveries and was delayed for less than 12 hours. FedEx is pretty pathetic if some snow is going to cause them to shut down for days.


Id rather them not drive in the snow, and instead keep the truck upright, as it flipping while driving in snow could result in the TV going topside and cracking.

TCO


----------



## Shaded War

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> Apparently it's delayed because of the snow we recently got. But I just looked and UPS is making deliveries and was delayed for less than 12 hours. FedEx is pretty pathetic if some snow is going to cause them to shut down for days.
> 
> 
> 
> Id rather them not drive in the snow, and instead keep the truck upright, as it flipping while driving in snow could result in the TV going topside and cracking.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

I get that, but we have snow all winter. Why delay for it? My package still shows it's in Pennsylvania and nowhere near Minnesota yet. -Rant over

At least UPS will be delivering my Touch VR controllers today so I have something to play with as I wait.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> I get that, but we have snow all winter. Why delay for it? My package still shows it's in Pennsylvania and nowhere near Minnesota yet. -Rant over
> 
> At least UPS will be delivering my Touch VR controllers today so I have something to play with as I wait.


There you go, just find the bright side.

TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> It feels like anything but Warm2 is like blue, bluer, bluest lol, its the only one that doesnt feel like it has a blue tint on it.
> And wasnt Dynamic Contrast in the past like the worst thing ever? I do think with Smat LED High and Dynamic Contrast High it makes movies look a lot more vivid instead of so bland.
> 
> Also I think my biggest mistake so far has been watching Luke Cage which is apparently reaöly bad looking for everyone else too.


Maybe try Standard mode with Warm 2 then?
I know originally I went with movie mode as well since reviews said it was a good starting point and I thought things looked good until I swapped to standard and thought the clarity and actual whites instead of yellowish whites was a big benefit.

I haven't watched it myself, but Marco Polo is supposed to be a good show to see 4k and HDR i believe.
Just to be sure, you are watching Netflix through the built in app correct? If coming through from the PC it won't be 4k.

This reminds me, I am currently on a trial of Amazon Prime so I need to see if they have any decent 4k and HDR movies to watch before the trial ends.
Any recommendations?


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Factory Reset Option for reference.
> 
> http://www.samsung.com/au/support/skp/faq/1116455
> 
> 
> 
> On the above picture, where it says Dynamic, Tv Speaker out put, etc, my TV doesn't display those options anymore, they are all blank, I will attempt a Factory Reset tonight or later on to see if I can get them to come back.
> 
> TCO


One thing to try first if you haven't already is unplug the TV from the wall for a minute and plug it back in.
I had some issue after connected my phone via SmartView once where after disconnecting it no apps would work, the screen just stayed black and wouldn't do anything. TV tuner and the settings menu worked fine so I was able to take photos of my settings in case I needed to reset it all.

Turning the TV off and on did nothing, but unplugging it did get it working again and kept my settings.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> One thing to try first if you haven't already is unplug the TV from the wall for a minute and plug it back in.
> I had some issue after connected my phone via SmartView once where after disconnecting it no apps would work, the screen just stayed black and wouldn't do anything. TV tuner and the settings menu worked fine so I was able to take photos of my settings in case I needed to reset it all.
> 
> Turning the TV off and on did nothing, but unplugging it did get it working again and kept my settings.


I will try this.

TCO


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Maybe try Standard mode with Warm 2 then?
> I know originally I went with movie mode as well since reviews said it was a good starting point and I thought things looked good until I swapped to standard and thought the clarity and actual whites instead of yellowish whites was a big benefit.
> 
> I haven't watched it myself, but Marco Polo is supposed to be a good show to see 4k and HDR i believe.
> Just to be sure, you are watching Netflix through the built in app correct? If coming through from the PC it won't be 4k.
> 
> This reminds me, I am currently on a trial of Amazon Prime so I need to see if they have any decent 4k and HDR movies to watch before the trial ends.
> Any recommendations?


Need to give Marco Polo a try, obviously watching through the Telly, don't even have my PC directly connected to the TV.

I'll check if Standard gives whites instead of blue tint or something.


----------



## Crizume

Been lurking in this thread for a while. Have a 65 in i got through the EPP loop for $1079. Absolutely love it for the price. Picture quality is fantastic. Can't comment on input lag as I haven't played any FPS on it yet from computer just casual PS4 stuff.

I remember reading somewhere in the thread someone had a link to a google drive with 4k HDR footage. Anyway you can whisper if you are still around. Want to try a direct source video since I hear its even better than streaming from apps.


----------



## MR-e

^ download 4K/HDR demo's from this link and stick them on a USB. Plug it in and watch in awe









http://demo-uhd3d.com/categorie.php?tag=hdr


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@mrtbahgs

Unplugging and plugging the tv back in worked









TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @mrtbahgs
> 
> Unplugging and plugging the tv back in worked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Great!

Maybe add that to the OP, if you have any kind of major issue or bug, before doing a factory reset try unplugging it for a minute and then plug it back in.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Playing Watch Dogs 2 on the 49KS8000 is a treat and since I'm from the Bay Area, I'm loving the visuals. Here's a pic I took of the game running at 1440p since 4k is too demanding for my GPU. Might be a little compressed after uploading. Click on the image and choose original for better detail.


----------



## Roxborough

Quick question:

I have had a google around, looking for a way to display 4 outputs akin to PIP at once splitting the screen space into 4. Or potentially, just 2 outputs. The reason I ask is, I would like to display both of my PS4's on the screen at once to play games with the Mrs. Now I know there are converter boxes out there that can split outputs but I was just wondering if there are any apps or anything I can install on the KS8000 that will do the same thing? Or if anyone has successfully achieved anything similar?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Great!
> 
> Maybe add that to the OP, if you have any kind of major issue or bug, before doing a factory reset try unplugging it for a minute and then plug it back in.


I am adding this to the Op right now.

TCO


----------



## Shaded War

I just found my new 55" sitting vertical and propped up against a snow bank at my back door. I took it in and unboxed it and everything seems fine so far. No visible cracks on the screen or any noticeable defects.

Now I'm just waiting for it to warm up before plugging it in since it started gathering condensation on the outside of the screen.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> I just found my new 55" sitting vertical and propped up against a snow bank at my back door. I took it in and unboxed it and everything seems fine so far. No visible cracks on the screen or any noticeable defects.
> 
> Now I'm just waiting for it to warm up before plugging it in since it started gathering condensation on the outside of the screen.


There you go, If you decide to want to wipe it, make sure it is microfiber.

TCO


----------



## Shaded War

I got everything set up, and so far the TV looks pretty good. The only issue is I found a dead pixel. Is there any way to fix it?

EDIT: Not sure if it's "dead" or "stuck". After looking very closely, a small portion of the pixel area is green and the bottom possibly a dark blue. It's like the pixel is split into 4 areas in a tiny square and the right side of it looks lit in those colors.

EDIT 2: I just pressed on the pixel with my finger using light pressure until it messed with the colors, and it lit up normal now and everything looks perfectly fine


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> I got everything set up, and so far the TV looks pretty good. The only issue is I found a dead pixel. Is there any way to fix it?
> 
> EDIT: Not sure if it's "dead" or "stuck". After looking very closely, a small portion of the pixel area is green and the bottom possibly a dark blue. It's like the pixel is split into 4 areas in a tiny square and the right side of it looks lit in those colors.
> 
> *EDIT 2:* I just pressed on the pixel with my finger using light pressure until it messed with the colors, and it lit up normal now and everything looks perfectly fine










Interesting!

TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

Yup that is one method I read about, but never got to work on my old monitor that had 1 stuck green pixel.
Use like a pencil eraser or something to apply pressure to the pixel and maybe tap a bit.

The other thing that I am unsure if it works is to play those videos that change between the 5 colors or whatever really fast for like 5 to 10 minutes.

Glad it shipped undamaged and you got everything working well!


----------



## Shaded War

I'm having issues plugging my TV into my PC (sig rig). When I plug the HDMI cable into my GTX1080, my PC becomes very unresponsive and the background and task bar starts glitching allot and the TV says no Input. I can see the TV in the Nvidia Control Panel and try to set the resolution and refresh rate, but it doesn't fix anything.

Restarting the PC without my monitors plugged in allows me to see the BIOS and Windows loading screen on the TV, but anything past that loses signal.

Do I need a new HDMI cable? I was under the impression they are all the same. I have a generic 25' one that I used previously for my old 1080p TV.


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> I'm having issues plugging my TV into my PC (sig rig). When I plug the HDMI cable into my GTX1080, my PC becomes very unresponsive and the background and task bar starts glitching allot and the TV says no Input. I can see the TV in the Nvidia Control Panel and try to set the resolution and refresh rate, but it doesn't fix anything.
> 
> Restarting the PC without my monitors plugged in allows me to see the BIOS and Windows loading screen on the TV, but anything past that loses signal.
> 
> Do I need a new HDMI cable? I was under the impression they are all the same. I have a generic 25' one that I used previously for my old 1080p TV.


Yes you need a high speed HDMI 2.0 cable. Similar thing happened to me with an Xbox One S and a 4k TV. I used my HDMI cable and not the high speed solution provided with my Xbox. The TV freaked out and appeared broken. Switched to the correct cable and everything worked.

Unnecessary to spend tons of money on a cable either. Just use the correct one.


----------



## Shaded War

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> Yes you need a high speed HDMI 2.0 cable. Similar thing happened to me with an Xbox One S and a 4k TV. I used my HDMI cable and not the high speed solution provided with my Xbox. The TV freaked out and appeared broken. Switched to the correct cable and everything worked.
> 
> Unnecessary to spend tons of money on a cable either. Just use the correct one.


I just tried it with my PS4 HDMI cable and it works fine now. But I need a longer cable arrounf 20-25 feet long to reach my TV from my PC without moving it.

Would this one work? LINK


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> I just tried it with my PS4 HDMI cable and it works fine now. But I need a longer cable arrounf 20-25 feet long to reach my TV from my PC without moving it.
> 
> Would this one work? LINK


I have 3 of that exact cable. All caused a delay in audio mainly in movies.


----------



## Shaded War

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> I have 3 of that exact cable. All caused a delay in audio mainly in movies.


Do you have any recommendations for cable in that length? I can't go shorter without running a cord directly across my doorway from my PC to my TV and blocking the walkway.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> Do you have any recommendations for cable in that length? I can't go shorter without running a cord directly across my doorway from my PC to my TV and blocking the walkway.


Cable of that length shouldn't have any issues because of the length yet I think. Maybe they are just mediocre quality?


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> Do you have any recommendations for cable in that length? I can't go shorter without running a cord directly across my doorway from my PC to my TV and blocking the walkway.


Wait they might actually be ok! I remember why I needed them and actually ran two with a capture card in between. So that means fifty feet across to the signal with a device in between is probably what caused the audio delay.


----------



## Shaded War

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> [
> 
> Wait they might actually be ok! I remember why I needed them and actually ran two with a capture card in between. So that means fifty feet across to the signal with a device in between is probably what caused the audio delay.


I looked at some reviews on amazon, and some people said it won't work.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> 4K 60hz 4:4:4: Fail (Video corruption or "No Signal")
> 4K 60hz 4:2:2: Fail
> 4K 60hz 4:2:0: Success
> 4K 59hz 4:4:4: Fail
> 4K 50hz 4:4:4: Fail
> 4K 30hz 4:4:4: Success
> 
> Source






I asked CallsignVega, and he suggested I go with one that costed $135 for what I need. I know Vega knows his stuff about displays, but this seems a bit overkill.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> I looked at some reviews on amazon, and some people said it won't work.
> 
> I asked CallsignVega, and he suggested I go with one that costed $135 for what I need. I know Vega knows his stuff about displays, but this seems a bit overkill.


If you buy somewhere that has free returns with no shipping or stocking fee then it can't hurt to try for yourself.
Do you think it isn't working because of the distance or it isn't high speed rated?

You need a high speed HDMI with or without ethernet.
When it comes to length I am not experienced to know if signal can degrade that much over 25ft and you need a super premium version or extra shielding etc.

I would look into a mono-price premium cable or something along those lines where it would be closer to $30 for 25ft as I really don't think you need a $100+ cable.
Again the key here would be to see if it can be returned at no additional cost if they don't state its specifications.
If they claim it is usable, but turns out not, then you should get a free refund for false advertising even if they normally charge.


----------



## Shaded War

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> If you buy somewhere that has free returns with no shipping or stocking fee then it can't hurt to try for yourself.
> Do you think it isn't working because of the distance or it isn't high speed rated?
> 
> You need a high speed HDMI with or without ethernet.
> When it comes to length I am not experienced to know if signal can degrade that much over 25ft and you need a super premium version or extra shielding etc.
> 
> I would look into a mono-price premium cable or something along those lines where it would be closer to $30 for 25ft as I really don't think you need a $100+ cable.
> Again the key here would be to see if it can be returned at no additional cost if they don't state its specifications.
> If they claim it is usable, but turns out not, then you should get a free refund for false advertising even if they normally charge.


I'm going to give the Monoprice Certified Premium High Speed HDMI a try. Looking at reviews, someone confirmed they got [email protected] 4:4:4 working on the 20' version. The only negative reviews for it was the cable gage was way too thick for their liking and isn't very flexible, which sounds like a good thing to me. I just hope 20' is enough.

My old 25' was the problem with it not working, as my 6' Sony cable that came with my PS4 worked fine in [email protected] 4:4:4.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Go with Monoprice. Did a couple reviews on the cables, not a 50ft one though.

Hdmi link in the siggy.

TCO


----------



## Shaded War

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Go with Monoprice. Did a couple reviews on the cables, not a 50ft one though.
> 
> Hdmi link in the siggy.
> 
> TCO


I got the Monoprice 20' Certified Premium cable in today, and it works in RGB Full or 4:4:4 at 4K60Hz. The cord is very thick, more than my PSU power cord. It looks a bit ridiculous running up my wall so I should have bought the white one.

I'm still trying to decide which color output format to use with this TV.

RGB Full makes blacks so dark, I lost the grey colors below #20 on this test. This would likely cause allot of dark scenes to lose detail, so I don't like it.
RGB Limited and 4:4:4 are very close, and I'm having a hard time deciding which is better. I think 444 might look a tad bit better with a little more color depth in darker areas than RGB limited.

Thoughts?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> I got the Monoprice 20' Certified Premium cable in today, and it works in RGB Full or 4:4:4 at 4K60Hz. The cord is very thick, more than my PSU power cord. It looks a bit ridiculous running up my wall so I should have bought the white one.
> 
> I'm still trying to decide which color output format to use with this TV.
> 
> RGB Full makes blacks so dark, I lost the grey colors below #20 on this test. This would likely cause allot of dark scenes to lose detail, so I don't like it.
> RGB Limited and 4:4:4 are very close, and I'm having a hard time deciding which is better*. I think 444 might look a tad bit better with a little more color depth* in darker areas than RGB limited.
> 
> Thoughts?


Pretty sure you have answered your own question, as this is your Tv, and you need to have it the way You want it.









I run 444 if I have it connected to my TV.



RGB Limited VS Full Also 4:2:2 4:4:4
Quote:


> RGB Full and RGB Limited are a different story. The names are confusing, as you would assume you always want the full information. Why would someone ever choose to have something limited? Well it comes down to TVs vs. PCs and how they handle a video signal.
> 
> TVs use a video range from 16-235. It considers levels below 16 to be black, and information above 235 is white. A calibrated TV will never display anything below 16 as anything other than black. Most will also treat everything over 235 as white since it should not exist in video content.
> 
> PCs are different and use a range from 0-255. There is no data below 0 or above 255 with an 8-bit video signal as there are only 256 possible values. In short, this is much simpler to understand as the TV concepts of Blacker-than-Black and Whiter-than-White do not exist.
> 
> RGB Full and RGB Limited exist because of this difference. TV programs and movies use the 16-235 range of values. Video games and PCs use the 0-255 range of values. Since TVs and PC Monitors use different scales, there has to be a way to convert between the two. Setting this RGB Full and Limited setting does that.
> 
> With a TV you should always use the RGB Limited setting. Limited refers to the values being limited to 16-235 and not the Full 0-255 scale. With TV and Movies, it leaves them untouched because they are already in the 16-235 range. When you play a video game, it will convert the 0-255 range to the 16-235 range. If it did not do this, shadow and highlights would be pure black or pure white, and the image will look off. You aren't losing anything by using RGB Limited, but if you use RGB Full with a TV you are losing details. You'll want to make sure you have Brightness and Contrast set correctly by using a Calibration Disc like Spears & Munsil.


Going to keep looking around a tad









TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Pcmonitors article.


Very good Article.

Setting 4:4:4 Ensures that it is a Full Range from 0-255
Quote:


> Third solution: using the YCbCr444 colour signal
> 
> It is very easy to get rid of that 'washed out' look and the problematic gamma by setting the graphics card to use the YCbCr444 colour format. Simply open the Nvidia Control Panel and navigate to 'Display' - 'Adjust desktop color settings'. Select 'YCbCr444' from the 'Digital color format' dropdown as shown below. The 'Black Level' option on the monitor, if there is one, should be greyed out after selecting this colour signal type.


Quote:


> This will switch the colour signal the graphics card sends out from RGB ('Limited Range RGB 16-235' by default) to an alternative which provides a very similar image to 'Full Range RGB 0-255' on most monitors. The measured gamma, white point and contrast are very similar indeed and the image looks very much comparable to a 'Full Range RGB' signal on most monitors. Some colour values are changed very slightly, with certain shades displayed more accurately and some less accurately. The images below compare the colour accuracy of the AOC i2473Pwy across a broad range of shades using both 'Full Range RGB (0-255)', shown on the left and 'YCbCr444', shown on the right. These tests were repeated several times and the slight differences were consistent for one signal type vs. the other - so it isn't just the colorimeter being weird. Different monitors will of course show different deviations in accuracy, but both colour signals should generally be just as close to each other as in this example. On a minority of monitors the changes can be more pronounced, for example the clarity of text can be affected with a blurred or 'fringed' look in places. If you notice such undesirable consequences on your monitor we'd advise using one of the other methods to correct the signal.


TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

My latest picture settings can be found on page 46.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> The article also mentions that setting nvidia control panel to 4:4:4 might slightly skew some colors. I think RGB limited is the safer bet.
> 
> I've got my computer connected via HDMI 3 which the TV will think is a game console. I simply changed the input name to PC and then enabled game mode. Under picture size I have 16:9 and fit to screen enabled. Under expert settings I have backlight at whatever I'm comfortable with which is usually 4 because my room is dark, brightness at 44, contrast at 95, sharpness at 0 and color at 50. HDMI black level on auto, Dynamic contrast off as well as Smart LED, color tone Warm1, Gamma at 0 and Color Space at Native.


And are you satisifed?

TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> And are you satisifed?
> 
> TCO


Of course! Try the settings out for yourself.









Only other way to improve the picture is to calibrate it with a tool.


----------



## DADDYDC650

I wish I could measure the input lag with this tv in game mode AND 4:4:4 chroma enabled. I see no mention @ rtngs.com. I'm pretty sure it feels smoother to me but who knows. Games look great with the settings I posted. Just like a monitor but obviously better since monitors feature inferior panels and overpriced for the most part.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Check out my corny Knight Rider setup featuring the 49KS9000 and new Creative BlasterX Katana,


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Thats Crazy lmao.

TCO


----------



## GoLDii3

Hey would anyone be kind enough to test something? If you have a PS4 Pro could you try a game with HDR like Ratchet and Clank and bring up the PS menu? Try this with HDR enabled and HDR disabled.

I want to know if the PS Menu changing colors is normal. For example a theme that changes the system color to red,it kinda looks like brown with HDR enabled.


----------



## Stige

I have this really weird navigation bar on top when I open some movie files on my TV, what is this? They supposedly have HDR and everything too but I think because of this weird nav bar, the TV doesn't recognize the HDR either.

Anyone else had similiar issues with files? Playing them over W10 DLNA server. And I cannot actually do anything on that navigation bar, it always opens up the TVs own bar if I press anything.


EDIT: It seems to be the menu of K8500 BD Player or something.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Has anyone tried running their PC with Game Mode enabled as well as 4:4:4 chroma @4K 60p? Can you notice a difference in input lag?

I've come to the conclusion that Game mode runs at 4:2:2 and NOT 4:4:4. Text is still clear and sharp though.


----------



## mrtbahgs

I'm not sure how many of you use this TV to watch the built in Hulu app, but if so, do you get it to basically freeze at random times during an ad break?
I usually have to back out and then resume the show which results in rewatching a few minutes of ads all over again.
It doesn't happen every time, but certainly a lot more than I'd like.

Also, I haven't spent any time searching for this answer myself, but figured I'd throw it out there.
Does anyone have a source that informs us of what the updates to the TV actually include?
It'd be interesting to see what they are fixing or adding.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I'm not sure how many of you use this TV to watch the built in Hulu app, but if so, do you get it to basically freeze at random times during an ad break?
> I usually have to back out and then resume the show which results in rewatching a few minutes of ads all over again.
> It doesn't happen every time, but certainly a lot more than I'd like.
> 
> Also, I haven't spent any time searching for this answer myself, but figured I'd throw it out there.
> Does anyone have a source that informs us of what the updates to the TV actually include?
> It'd be interesting to see what they are fixing or adding.


Watched Sense 8 last night (Season 2: Episode 1) in 2160p last night. Wowza. That was gorgeous! Very impressed with the TV (even after owning it for months now)

I see the questions about the 444 options and etc, but don't have mine hooked up to the pc at the moment.

TCO


----------



## Shaded War

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I'm not sure how many of you use this TV to watch the built in Hulu app, but if so, do you get it to basically freeze at random times during an ad break?
> I usually have to back out and then resume the show which results in rewatching a few minutes of ads all over again.
> It doesn't happen every time, but certainly a lot more than I'd like.
> 
> Also, I haven't spent any time searching for this answer myself, but figured I'd throw it out there.
> Does anyone have a source that informs us of what the updates to the TV actually include?
> It'd be interesting to see what they are fixing or adding.


I'v been having issues with Hulu as well. Sometimes after the ad breaks are over, it will error so you click retry and it forces more ads on the screen. It also happens when first selecting a show and failing to start. One time it completely froze my TV and I had to pull the plug.

Once my free trial of Hulu runs out, I'll be going with the ad free option to see if the problem goes away. If it continues, I'll try the PS4 / Xbox One Hulu app instead of the TV app.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> I'v been having issues with Hulu as well. Sometimes after the ad breaks are over, it will error so you click retry and it forces more ads on the screen. It also happens when first selecting a show and failing to start. One time it completely froze my TV and I had to pull the plug.
> 
> Once my free trial of Hulu runs out, I'll be going with the ad free option to see if the problem goes away. If it continues, I'll try the PS4 / Xbox One Hulu app instead of the TV app.


Ya I have had that pop up error before as well after the ads are over, but less often than the ads freezing.
I suppose I could try the ad free version, but didn't think it was worth the extra money, maybe if I call them they will let me try it out with a reimbursement for the difference in cost.

I suppose since Hulu doesn't do 4k I could just run it through my PC and avoid the ad issue as well, but the TV interface is pretty simple and quick to use so I like it.


----------



## Stige

Anyone else got issues with Media Streaming? It used to work fine but now I get random disconnects in the middle of movies/shows randomly streaming from my PC.

Tried multiple DLNA servers already so that isn't the issue and the log files seem to indicate that it is the TV that is doing the disconnecting for some reason.
Have tried assigning static IP for the TV etc, Wired or Wireless connection doesn't seem to make a difference either.

*EDIT:* Factory Reset seems to have fixed this issue for me, atleast one movie ran without issues now.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Anyone else got issues with Media Streaming? It used to work fine but now I get random disconnects in the middle of movies/shows randomly streaming from my PC.
> 
> Tried multiple DLNA servers already so that isn't the issue and the log files seem to indicate that it is the TV that is doing the disconnecting for some reason.
> Have tried assigning static IP for the TV etc, Wired or Wireless connection doesn't seem to make a difference either.
> 
> *EDIT:* Factory Reset seems to have fixed this issue for me, atleast one movie ran without issues now.


I have had the exact same issue. Factory Reset seems to be the fix for everything on this TV lol!

I still get annoying messages about the network being discovered, and asking me if I would like to set it up, OVER and OVER again. I got a new router to fix it... Didn't do anything. I rang Samsung tech support, they said it was something my end. I have tried new cables, I have tried using a static IP, wired/wireless, no change. It is completely random too. Sometimes I won't get the message for days, then all of a sudden, it will be all throughout an entire day, incessant.

As much as I love this TV, I can tell there appears to be some smart function issues relating to network connectivity. I am wondering what it could be. A real head scratcher!


----------



## DADDYDC650

New 49KS8000 setup. Need a new desk.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> New 49KS8000 setup. Need a new desk.


DUDE









I am adding that to the OP









That looks amazing bubba!

TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> DUDE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am adding that to the OP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks amazing bubba!
> 
> TCO


Thanks! Appreciate it! Glad I could take a decent pic with my iPhone 7+.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> New 49KS8000 setup. Need a new desk.


Nice







Looks like you have the same idea as me...use it kinda like 4x24" 1080P monitors with no bezel for lots of workspace; although I don't have one yet. I'm waiting for tax season. How do you like it so far?


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you have the same idea as me...use it kinda like 4x24" 1080P monitors with no bezel for lots of workspace; although I don't have one yet. I'm waiting for tax season. How do you like it so far?


It's amazing. Immersion is great and image is crystal clear. It's not perfect but what monitor is? Got it on sale to hold me over until I can afford a 32-40" with 120Hz+, HDR + Gsync.


----------



## Dry Bonez

as much as i love this tv,i have to say..... eff this tv at the same time. i cant seem to clean it without it having some side effect and it has some weird marks on it even after buffing off


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> as much as i love this tv,i have to say..... eff this tv at the same time. i cant seem to clean it without it having some side effect and it has some weird marks on it even after buffing off


What are you using to clean it and what kind of "side efect"?


----------



## mrtbahgs

Like dusting it or do you have a kid that smears his fingers over it a lot or things extreme like that?
The only thing I've done so far is a gentle dusting of the screen face.

Do you actually notice the side effect (I assume a haze or blotchy patch) when watching the TV or just when it is off?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Anyone wiping it down with just a microfiber and no solvent? I need to clean mine too.

TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Anyone wiping it down with just a microfiber and no solvent? I need to clean mine too.
> 
> TCO


If you wipe it down, make sure the display itself is dust free and use a soft, clean, lint free, dry cloth. You'll end up w:thumb:ith micro scratches on the glass if a piece of lint/particle is between the glass and cloth. Also, wipe gently and in one direction at a time.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> as much as i love this tv,i have to say..... eff this tv at the same time. i cant seem to clean it without it having some side effect and it has some weird marks on it even after buffing off


Multiple people on finnish IT forum have confirmed that there is dust or something stuck in between the panel/glass whatever is in front of the panel, I think you are not any different?

I haven't checked mine yet as I don't wanna be bugged out by it as you don't notice any from distance.


----------



## MR-e

I had some amazon gcards so I used them and picked up a Monster Screen Clean 2.0 combo with both blue and black bottles. They work perfectly but I'm not sure I would buy the kit if it wasn't for the gcards. Kind of pricey imo.


----------



## DADDYDC650

*Game Mode for PC Gaming with clear text:*

Change the input to Game Console by editing the input and change the label to something other than PC Next, go to your graphics card control panel and change the Output color format to RGB & Output dynamic range to Full. Change Special Viewing Mode under your TV's picture settings to Game Mode. With these settings you'll get practically the same image as PC Mode/4:4;4 as well as only 20ms input lag instead of 35ms. If you want colors to be a little more vibrant, adjust Digital Vibrance to your liking. This can be found in the Nvidia Control Panel under Adjust desktop color settings. With AMD GPU's, it should be under Display Color, Saturation.

Enable HDMI UHD Color on every input. Under Picture Size I have 16:9 and Fit to Screen enabled. Under Expert Settings choose backlight @ whatever you're comfy with, Brightness @ 43, contrast @ 95, sharpness @ 0 and color at 50. HDMI black level @Normal, Dynamic Contrast @Off (Medium/High if you prefer), Smart LED @High, color tone Warm1 (or 2, whatever you prefer), Gamma at 0 and Color Space @ Auto.

*PC Mode with 4:4:4 enabled:*

Make sure the HDMI input is labeled PC. This will enable true 4:4:4. Next, go to your graphics card control panel and change the Output color format to RGB & Output dynamic range to Full. This should be default when using Nvidia GPU's.

Make sure HDMI UHD is enabled on every input. Under Picture Mode, choose Standard and then disable every option under ECO Solution. Under expert settings choose backlight @ whatever you're comfy with, brightness @ 43, contrast @ 95, sharpness @ 0 and color at 50, Smart LED @High, HDMI black level @Normal and color tone @ Warm1 (or 2, whatever you prefer).

*PC Gaming with HDR Enabled:*

For optimum results, switch to Game Mode and use the picture settings posted above for Game Mode. You will also need to change Output Color Format to YCbCr420 and Output color depth to 12 bpc. These two settings can usually be found in your graphics card control panel. If you do not use these settings, HDR will not work correctly in PC games.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Figured out how to get clear/sharp text in Game Mode while having the same image as PC Mode with 4:4:4. Connect your PC to any input other than the one labeled PC. Change the input to Game Console by editing the input. Change the name to computer or something other than PC. Next, go to your graphics card control panel and change the output color format to YCbCr444. Last of all, change, "Speical Viewing Mode' under your TV's picture settings to "Game Mode. With these settings you'll get the same image as PC Mode/4:4;4 as well as only 20ms input lag instead of 35ms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture settings:
> 
> Under picture size I have 16:9 and fit to screen enabled. Under expert settings I have backlight at whatever I'm comfortable with which is usually 4-6 because my room is dark, brightness at 43, contrast at 95, sharpness at 0 and color at 50. HDMI black level on auto, Dynamic contrast off, Smart LED @High/Low, color tone Warm1 (or 2, whatever you prefer), Gamma at 0 and Color Space @ Auto.


Adding to OP









TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Also, Hitman is getting HDR by the end of the Month for those that own it on PC, would be a good test for The KS8000!

http://www.digitaltrends.com/gaming/hitman-hdr-support/



TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Also, Hitman is getting HDR by the end of the Month for those that own it on PC, would be a good test for The KS8000!
> 
> http://www.digitaltrends.com/gaming/hitman-hdr-support/
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


I'll buy the full experience version next month for $20 or less then. Thanks for the heads up!

Question, why did you return your KS8000?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> I'll buy the full experience version next month for $20 or less then. Thanks for the heads up!
> 
> Question, *why did you return your KS8000*?


Did What??? No, I would never return the KS8000. Where did you get that idea?

TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Did What??? No, I would never return the KS8000. Where did you get that idea?
> 
> TCO


Which size do you own? Just going by your sig is all.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Which size do you own? Just going by your sig is all.


Oh! Lmao. I don't use the KS8000 as my Monitor, I bought it for the PS4 PRO.

I bought the 49"







You and I have the same KS8000.









TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Oh! Lmao. I don't use the KS8000 as my Monitor, I bought it for the PS4 PRO.
> 
> I bought the 49"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You and I have the same KS8000.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Don't use it as your monitor? Why use anything inferior?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Don't use it as your monitor? Why use anything inferior?












I have asked myself the same question multiple times. I bought the KS8000 as a replacement for my Living room TV after the last flood in Louisiana. The Previous 50" Inferior Insignia just wasn't cutting it anymore.

I had received a 32" Crossover 324k from Ebay for free after miscommunication with the seller, so that is what I use ATM.









TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have asked myself the same question multiple times. I bought the KS8000 as a replacement for my Living room TV after the last flood in Louisiana. The Previous 50" Inferior Insignia just wasn't cutting it anymore.
> 
> I had received a 32" Crossover 324k from Ebay for free after miscommunication with the seller, so that is what I use ATM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Can't beat free.... Very nice!


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Figured out how to get clear/sharp text in Game Mode while having the same image as PC Mode with 4:4:4. Connect your PC to any input other than the one labeled PC. Change the input to Game Console by editing the input. Change the name to computer or something other than PC. Next, go to your graphics card control panel and change the output color format to YCbCr444. Last of all, change, "Speical Viewing Mode' under your TV's picture settings to "Game Mode. With these settings you'll get the same image as PC Mode/4:4;4 as well as only 20ms input lag instead of 35ms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture settings:
> 
> Under picture size I have 16:9 and fit to screen enabled. Under expert settings I have backlight at whatever I'm comfortable with which is usually 4-6 because my room is dark, brightness at 43, contrast at 95, sharpness at 0 and color at 50. HDMI black level on auto, Dynamic contrast off, Smart LED @High/Low, color tone Warm1 (or 2, whatever you prefer), Gamma at 0 and Color Space @ Auto.


For some obscure reason my YCbCr444 doesn't give 10 or 12 bpc colour depth, only get 8, is it the same for you?


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> For some obscure reason my YCbCr444 doesn't give 10 or 12 bpc colour depth, only get 8, is it the same for you?


Yup. You'll need to choose 4:2:2 or 4:2:0. HDMI 2.1 does not have enough bandwidth. Same reason why all 4K monitors/TV's only do 60Hz @4K.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Adding to OP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Updated the post with my settings. Can you please update OP?

BTW, HDR can be enabled when using PC Mode with 4:4:4 enabled. Some folks over at AVSForums claimed it wasn't possible but thankfully they were wrong.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> *Updated the post with my settings. Can you please update OP?
> *
> BTW, HDR can be enabled when using PC Mode with 4:4:4 enabled. Some folks over at AVSForums claimed it wasn't possible but thankfully they were wrong.


Done









TCO


----------



## Ragsters

Thinking of picking up the 65" from Costco tomorrow. Also thinking of picking up the UBD K8500 4k player with it as well. Can someone help me figure out how to connect everything up? I currently have a Sony STR-DH 550 reciever.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Perhaps look at the model number, I thought i recall reading that Sams Club/Costco have a slightly different version of the TV or all their TVs in general.
Maybe nothing is different, but it is worth taking a moment to be sure.

In regards to hooking it all up, a quick glance makes it seem like that is just a basic receiver so I doubt it would support true 4k pass-through and maybe not even an HDMI input with ARC.
Worst case, you just connect the blu-ray player to the TV's OneConnect box for video and then run an optical cable to the receiver for passing the sound (also from the OneConnect box).
If the receiver supports ARC you can HDMI the TV and receiver so it passes the audio onto your external speakers that way.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Perhaps look at the model number, I thought i recall reading that Sams Club/Costco have a slightly different version of the TV or all their TVs in general.
> Maybe nothing is different, but it is worth taking a moment to be sure.
> 
> In regards to hooking it all up, a quick glance makes it seem like that is just a basic receiver so I doubt it would support true 4k pass-through and maybe not even an HDMI input with ARC.
> Worst case, you just connect the blu-ray player to the TV's OneConnect box for video and then run an optical cable to the receiver for passing the sound (also from the OneConnect box).
> If the receiver supports ARC you can HDMI the TV and receiver so it passes the audio onto your external speakers that way.


Thanks for the response. First, yes the Costco brand tvs have a different model number but are exactly the same tv. They do this for price matching reasons. Also, my receiver has 4k pass through but I'm not sure the quality. I don't even know what ARC is. If I use the optical cable are all the high end audio features still supported? I thought things like DTS-HD is only supported through HDMI.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thanks for the response. First, yes the Costco brand tvs have a different model number but are exactly the same tv. They do this for price matching reasons. Also, my receiver has 4k pass through but I'm not sure the quality. I don't even know what ARC is. If I use the optical cable are all the high end audio features still supported? I thought things like DTS-HD is only supported through HDMI.


I am not sure what exactly to look for as it has been awhile now, but true 4k pass-through will support 4:4:4 chroma, 60hz, and all that good stuff.
I remember standards like HDCP 2.2 and other latest standards need to also be support for everything to work together properly.
The TV and 4k blu-ray player will have everything, the receiver may not depending on its age and features offered.
My rather expensive receiver from (2013?) was one year too old to support the lastest everything and just does the initial basic 4k pass-through so I run 4k things through the OneConnect box instead.

ARC is Audio Return Channel, basically it allows for a 2 way street of audio info as opposed to one way so you can have the TV send the sound back to the receiver to play through external speakers.
Again depending on the receiver, none, some, or possibly all of your HDMI connections will support ARC and it is usually somewhat clearly marked on the back right near the connections or should be in your manual.
If you don't have ARC on the receiver, then you just use the optical connection, and I guess if you don't have optical then you use old RCA red and white cables, but those are no longer a digital connection.

If the receiver is 5 or less years old I would think it would support either ARC or Optical no matter what model level it is.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I am not sure what exactly to look for as it has been awhile now, but true 4k pass-through will support 4:4:4 chroma, 60hz, and all that good stuff.
> I remember standards like HDCP 2.2 and other latest standards need to also be support for everything to work together properly.
> The TV and 4k blu-ray player will have everything, the receiver may not depending on its age and features offered.
> My rather expensive receiver from (2013?) was one year too old to support the lastest everything and just does the initial basic 4k pass-through so I run 4k things through the OneConnect box instead.
> 
> ARC is Audio Return Channel, basically it allows for a 2 way street of audio info as opposed to one way so you can have the TV send the sound back to the receiver to play through external speakers.
> Again depending on the receiver, none, some, or possibly all of your HDMI connections will support ARC and it is usually somewhat clearly marked on the back right near the connections or should be in your manual.
> If you don't have ARC on the receiver, then you just use the optical connection, and I guess if you don't have optical then you use old RCA red and white cables, but those are no longer a digital connection.
> 
> If the receiver is 5 or less years old I would think it would support either ARC or Optical no matter what model level it is.


The reciever is fairly new. I linked it in the previous post.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> The reciever is fairly new. I linked it in the previous post.


Yea i looked over that earlier, but was unimpressed with the lack of information that they provided so closed it quickly.
After looking closer I now see the full specs are hidden and it is just an absolutely horrid website design by Sony.
After finally finding and clicking the button to be redirected to another page I can see it seems to have everything you should need including ARC.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Yea i looked over that earlier, but was unimpressed with the lack of information that they provided so closed it quickly.
> After looking closer I now see the full specs are hidden and it is just an absolutely horrid website design by Sony.
> After finally finding and clicking the button to be redirected to another page I can see it seems to have everything you should need including ARC.


Cool! Are you saying I can use my receiver as the HDMI switcher or do you still recommend me use the TV? Thanks for all your help! +rep:thumb:


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Cool! Are you saying I can use my receiver as the HDMI switcher or do you still recommend me use the TV? Thanks for all your help! +rep:thumb:


I think it is worth trying through the receiver first and likely will be able to do it for you, but you still have plan B with the OneConnect box.

Then again, I don't know if you were also connecting a PC to it or not.
In my case I do have my PC connected for certain things and wish my receiver could be the main hub since I occasionally have issues with it tied to the TV.
If you are only connecting things like a blu-ray player, game console, etc then there may not be much difference in how it is wired and just go with what feels natural to you for remote use and maybe the cleanest routing of cables.
Do be sure to report back if it worked though and what way you ended up going with.

The 65" is quite the beast and I have enjoyed mine very much.
I forget my distance away from the screen, but it is like 13 to 15 feet so the size is spot on for me.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I think it is worth trying through the receiver first and likely will be able to do it for you, but you still have plan B with the OneConnect box.
> 
> Then again, I don't know if you were also connecting a PC to it or not.
> In my case I do have my PC connected for certain things and wish my receiver could be the main hub since I occasionally have issues with it tied to the TV.
> If you are only connecting things like a blu-ray player, game console, etc then there may not be much difference in how it is wired and just go with what feels natural to you for remote use and maybe the cleanest routing of cables.
> Do be sure to report back if it worked though and what way you ended up going with.
> 
> The 65" is quite the beast and I have enjoyed mine very much.
> I forget my distance away from the screen, but it is like 13 to 15 feet so the size is spot on for me.


I looked at rting.com and they said the optimum distance is like 8' for 65". Am I reading that right? Im going to be around 11' from my TV.


----------



## mrtbahgs

They are probably referring to the optimal distance to view 4k resolution and actually see a difference from 1080p.
If all things in a TV were equal (and they never are) other than resolution, then there are certain distances where you should view a 720p, 1080p, and 4k screen to actually take advantage of the pixels.
Sites will have their own version of a "view distance calculator" to help you pick the right size screen or distance away from it based on what the human eye is supposed to be able to distinguish.
Here is an image version that sums it up and I assume is using the same distance/calculation as the ones where you type info in:


When it comes to 4k, the distances are insanely close, to the point of probably feeling awkward or uncomfortable.
In today's market though you can't really find a high quality 1080p TV or at least not for a noticeable reduction in price to make it worth considering.
Plus depending on your room layout, it will likely look strange having your couch in the middle of the room 5 to 8 ft away from the TV and then have like 4 feet of space behind it before you get to the wall.
You can always test it out with a chair 5 feet from the screen to see what it feels like, but I have a feeling it won't be something you would prefer on a regular basis or you will at least be turning the brightness way down before you dry your eyes out and burn them lol.

I think 11' will be perfect for you.
I went from a 40" to this 65" so it was a huge difference sitting 11 or 12 feet away.

If anything, you could reconsider buying a 4k blu-ray player and the 4k blu-rays that need to go with it as you may not really see a huge difference from upscaled 1080p blu-ray at 11'.
I'm not sure what current prices are, but that Samsung player was like $350 last i noticed and then the movies were like $30 each.
If you have the money, then go for it I guess, but it is still in the early adopter price range.
It might actually be better money spent on a 4k Xbox One S to use as the 4k blu-ray player and then have a game console on the side.


----------



## Stige

Yeah I will also be getting the One S at some point, I hate consoles so much but it is by far the cheapest solution for 4K Blu-Ray I think, in Finland atleast.
And can maybe play a game or two on it if I ever feel like buying those overpriced things... Paying 60€ for a game is just stupid.

Cheapest One S is 250€ here with a bundled Fifa (lol crap) and 4K Blu-rays are like 25€, 10€ on sale.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> They are probably referring to the optimal distance to view 4k resolution and actually see a difference from 1080p.
> If all things in a TV were equal (and they never are) other than resolution, then there are certain distances where you should view a 720p, 1080p, and 4k screen to actually take advantage of the pixels.
> Sites will have their own version of a "view distance calculator" to help you pick the right size screen or distance away from it based on what the human eye is supposed to be able to distinguish.
> Here is an image version that sums it up and I assume is using the same distance/calculation as the ones where you type info in:
> 
> 
> When it comes to 4k, the distances are insanely close, to the point of probably feeling awkward or uncomfortable.
> In today's market though you can't really find a high quality 1080p TV or at least not for a noticeable reduction in price to make it worth considering.
> Plus depending on your room layout, it will likely look strange having your couch in the middle of the room 5 to 8 ft away from the TV and then have like 4 feet of space behind it before you get to the wall.
> You can always test it out with a chair 5 feet from the screen to see what it feels like, but I have a feeling it won't be something you would prefer on a regular basis or you will at least be turning the brightness way down before you dry your eyes out and burn them lol.
> 
> I think 11' will be perfect for you.
> I went from a 40" to this 65" so it was a huge difference sitting 11 or 12 feet away.
> 
> If anything, you could reconsider buying a 4k blu-ray player and the 4k blu-rays that need to go with it as you may not really see a huge difference from upscaled 1080p blu-ray at 11'.
> I'm not sure what current prices are, but that Samsung player was like $350 last i noticed and then the movies were like $30 each.
> If you have the money, then go for it I guess, but it is still in the early adopter price range.
> It might actually be better money spent on a 4k Xbox One S to use as the 4k blu-ray player and then have a game console on the side.


I was thinking of the One S. I will see how much Costco sells the Samsung 4k player. If it is equal to or less than the Xbox one S then I will go with the Samsung player.


----------



## Ragsters

I just came back from Costco and just my luck they sold out of the 65" Samsung.







I also checked out the price of the Samsung Bluray player and its being sold for $259.99.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I just came back from Costco and just my luck they sold out of the 65" Samsung.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also checked out the price of the Samsung Bluray player and its being sold for $259.99.


Here you go buddy. Visit the thread linked below and ask for an EPP invite. 65KS8000 for $1079.

https://slickdeals.net/f/9697484-samsung-epp-is-back-super-bowl-deals-start-today-ks8000-1079-for-65-729-for-55-best-buy-has-55-for-999?src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBarV2Algo1


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Here you go buddy. Visit the thread linked below and ask for an EPP invite. 65KS8000 for $1079.
> 
> https://slickdeals.net/f/9697484-samsung-epp-is-back-super-bowl-deals-start-today-ks8000-1079-for-65-729-for-55-best-buy-has-55-for-999?src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBarV2Algo1


Hmm I thought they fixed the friend invite loophole getting full access to the pricing, but if not then that is indeed a great way to go.
I got my 65" in October from EPP, but at a higher price then, but it also came with a few rebate site credits to bring it down near that price in the end.

Ragsters, If you do go this route I can send you an invite to the rebate site (not the EPP pricing) to get a few % cash back and I get a bit of credit too.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Here you go buddy. Visit the thread linked below and ask for an EPP invite. 65KS8000 for $1079.
> 
> https://slickdeals.net/f/9697484-samsung-epp-is-back-super-bowl-deals-start-today-ks8000-1079-for-65-729-for-55-best-buy-has-55-for-999?src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBarV2Algo1


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Hmm I thought they fixed the friend invite loophole getting full access to the pricing, but if not then that is indeed a great way to go.
> I got my 65" in October from EPP, but at a higher price then, but it also came with a few rebate site credits to bring it down near that price in the end.
> 
> Ragsters, If you do go this route I can send you an invite to the rebate site (not the EPP pricing) to get a few % cash back and I get a bit of credit too.


I heard a lot of horror stories about buying things from Samsung. I personally already had a bad experience with Samsung when I tried getting my S7 edge fixed after having it for 20 days.. I rather get the TV from Costco and take advantage of the 4 years (Costco 2 + Citi Card 2) of warranty. I also love there 90 days return policy.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I heard a lot of horror stories about buying things from Samsung. I personally already had a bad experience with Samsung when I tried getting my S7 edge fixed after having it for 20 days.. I rather get the TV from Costco and take advantage of the 4 years (Costco 2 + Citi Card 2) of warranty. I also love there 90 days return policy.


You can save hundreds by going the EPP route and then purchase a 4 year squaretrade warranty at Costco for around $80.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Hmm I thought they fixed the friend invite loophole getting full access to the pricing, but if not then that is indeed a great way to go.
> I got my 65" in October from EPP, but at a higher price then, but it also came with a few rebate site credits to bring it down near that price in the end.
> 
> Ragsters, If you do go this route I can send you an invite to the rebate site (not the EPP pricing) to get a few % cash back and I get a bit of credit too.


how can i get the 65 inch for that price you mentioned? i would purchase right now and you can have all the credit you want,i just want it for that price.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I heard a lot of horror stories about buying things from Samsung. I personally already had a bad experience with Samsung when I tried getting my S7 edge fixed after having it for 20 days.. I rather get the TV from Costco and take advantage of the 4 years (Costco 2 + Citi Card 2) of warranty. I also love there 90 days return policy.


If you are comfortable with that route and price then yes I would go for it.
I have heard a few stories of the TV arriving with a cracked screen or other issue in transit and Samsung only offers refunds and you have to purchase all over again, they do not do an exchange or honor the price you paid at a certain moment in time. So picking one up in person at Costco and being careful when delivering is probably worth a few bucks more than the chance at a hassle of returning.

Mine was lucky enough to arrive unharmed, but it was during a period of mega back-order so it took a few weeks to ship out and others after me waited MANY weeks.
This was back around October/November though and when they first went on sale so I would think they caught up now and it wouldn't be too crazy long of a wait.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Here you go buddy. Visit the thread linked below and ask for an EPP invite. 65KS8000 for $1079.
> 
> https://slickdeals.net/f/9697484-samsung-epp-is-back-super-bowl-deals-start-today-ks8000-1079-for-65-729-for-55-best-buy-has-55-for-999?src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBarV2Algo1


how can i get this tv for that price? i would buy right now


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> how can i get the 65 inch for that price you mentioned? i would purchase right now and you can have all the credit you want,i just want it for that price.


I think I tried helping you a few months back, but we couldn't get an EPP invite and I had no more available.
Slickdeals is where to try and get invited, but I can't guarantee it works anymore since I thought Samsung closed the loophole of tons of random invites.
I'm not sure how they are doing it currently, but at one point people were trying to get a $5 or so amazon giftcard for inviting you to the EPP.
When I got invited it was during a period of people offering invites for free and then hoped you returned the favor and invited your 5 max people back, which I did and now have no more invites. I guess others got greedy and wanted to make a few bucks off the 30 second invite process.

My big thing though is that I don't know if they made it so new people can order at the EPP price or not now, I don't see why it would be opened up again.
You'd have to read through the Slickdeals thread and see if everyone is saying they were able to order and then ask for an invite.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> how can i get this tv for that price? i would buy right now


Read the second post of the linked thread.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I think I tried helping you a few months back, but we couldn't get an EPP invite and I had no more available.
> Slickdeals is where to try and get invited, but I can't guarantee it works anymore since I thought Samsung closed the loophole of tons of random invites.
> I'm not sure how they are doing it currently, but at one point people were trying to get a $5 or so amazon giftcard for inviting you to the EPP.
> When I got invited it was during a period of people offering invites for free and then hoped you returned the favor and invited your 5 max people back, which I did and now have no more invites. I guess others got greedy and wanted to make a few bucks off the 30 second invite process.
> 
> My big thing though is that I don't know if they made it so new people can order at the EPP price or not now, I don't see why it would be opened up again.
> You'd have to read through the Slickdeals thread and see if everyone is saying they were able to order and then ask for an invite.


yes and at that time i had already ordered the 49 inch, which i am in the process of getting fixed tomorrow.So apparantly, when you clean the screen,i noticed it leaves some extremely horrendous cloud looking spots,only noticeable in a dark screen or tv shut off and it will NOT go away. I have only used a microfiber cloth and a samsung tv cleaner. But i also want another tv like this because i am crazy like that lol. but idk if i should get the 65 or wait for the new replacements that got announced at CES 2017


----------



## Ragsters

Just got the 65" last night. Can someone help me with the set up? My question is if I should use the HDMI ARC input to my reciever or use optical cable and free up an hdmi port? Is optical sound inferior to HDMI? Can I connect any component to the ARC input?


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Just got the 65" last night. Can someone help me with the set up? My question is if I should use the HDMI ARC input to my reciever or use optical cable and free up an hdmi port? Is optical sound inferior to HDMI? Can I connect any component to the ARC input?


Optical and HDMI with ARC are both digital signals which is the best you can get (as far as I know).
I believe they are the same or unnoticeable in quality, but HDMI with ARC would be the one to edge things out if it had to, it may just be more for the convenience though for people who are already running HDMI and wont need a second cable to pass sound as well.
If you are limited in HDMI slots then optical should be just fine.

The ARC capable HDMI port will still work like any other HDMI port even if you don't plan to pass the sound so anything can be hooked up.
In a sense I guess it would be considered backwards compatible with original HDMI.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Optical and HDMI with ARC are both digital signals which is the best you can get (as far as I know).
> I believe they are the same or unnoticeable in quality, but HDMI with ARC would be the one to edge things out if it had to, it may just be more for the convenience though for people who are already running HDMI and wont need a second cable to pass sound as well.
> If you are limited in HDMI slots then optical should be just fine.
> 
> The ARC capable HDMI port will still work like any other HDMI port even if you don't plan to pass the sound so anything can be hooked up.
> In a sense I guess it would be considered backwards compatible with original HDMI.


Thanks again for the help!


----------



## Ragsters

Now I have a problem. Last night I was testing the TV and streaming Mozart in the Jungle and HDR was working great. Well today HDR refuses to enable. I dont even think its 4k. What could be going on? The only thing I can think is that im using an old HDMI cable until my new ones come in on Wednesday.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Now I have a problem. Last night I was testing the TV and streaming Mozart in the Jungle and HDR was working great. Well today HDR refuses to enable. I dont even think its 4k. What could be going on? The only thing I can think is that im using an old HDMI cable until my new ones come in on Wednesday.


If you want faster responses and possibly more accurate answers, head on over to the KS8000 thread over at AVSFORUMS.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Thanks again for the help!


No problem.
By the way i was feeling less confident in my optical vs hdmi answer and after searching for a minute i see that hdmi does allow a few higher end sound codecs through that optical does not. This is blu-ray level sound so it might not be a huge difference, but if you can connect via hdmi it would definitely be the way to go. I dont think 4k movies have yet another higher tier audio, but it would have blu-ray level.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Seems like Shadow Warrior 2 and Resident Evil - Biohazard support HDR on PC. Next up is Hitman and Mass Effect Andromeda. I have discovered the correct settings in order to get HDR working correctly. Unfortunately, PC Mode does NOT support 10 bpc which is a requirement for HDR so games appear washed out. Below are my latest updated and finalized picture settings.

*Game Mode for PC Gaming with clear text:*

Change the input to Game Console by editing the input and change the label to something other than PC Next, go to your graphics card control panel and change the Output color format to RGB & Output dynamic range to Full. Change Special Viewing Mode under your TV's picture settings to Game Mode. With these settings you'll get practically the same image as PC Mode/4:4;4 as well as only 20ms input lag instead of 35ms. If you want colors to be a little more vibrant, adjust Digital Vibrance to your liking. This can be found in the Nvidia Control Panel under Adjust desktop color settings. With AMD GPU's, it should be under Display Color, Saturation.

Enable HDMI UHD Color on every input. Under Picture Size I have 16:9 and Fit to Screen enabled. Under Expert Settings choose backlight @ whatever you're comfy with, Brightness @ 43, contrast @ 95, sharpness @ 0 and color at 50, Dynamic Contrast @ Off (Medium/High if you prefer), Smart LED @ High, color tone Warm1 (or 2, whatever you prefer), Gamma at 0 and Color Space @ Auto.

*PC Mode with 4:4:4 enabled:*

Make sure the HDMI input is labeled PC. This will enable true 4:4:4. Next, go to your graphics card control panel and change the Output color format to RGB & Output dynamic range to Full. This should be default when using Nvidia GPU's.

Make sure HDMI UHD is enabled on every input. Under Picture Mode, choose Standard and then disable every option under ECO Solution. Under expert settings choose backlight @ whatever you're comfy with, brightness @ 43, contrast @ 95, sharpness @ 0 and color at 50, Smart LED @ High, HDMI black level @ Normal and color tone @ Warm1 (or 2, whatever you prefer).

*PC Gaming with HDR Enabled:*

For optimum results, switch to Game Mode and use the picture settings posted above for Game Mode. You will also need to change Output Color Format to YCbCr420 and Output color depth to 12 bpc. These two settings can usually be found in your graphics card control panel.


----------



## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Seems like Shadow Warrior 2 and Resident Evil - Biohazard support HDR on PC. Next up is Hitman and Mass Effect Andromeda.


Obduction is another, and it is also the most beautiful game with HDR support. I'd like to see how it looks on a TV with a worthwhile HDR implementation.


----------



## Mattchion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Seems like Shadow Warrior 2 and Resident Evil - Biohazard support HDR on PC. Next up is Hitman and Mass Effect Andromeda. I have discovered the correct settings in order to get HDR working correctly. Unfortunately, PC Mode does NOT support 10 bpc which is a requirement for HDR so games appear washed out. Below are my latest updated and finalized picture settings.
> 
> *Game Mode for PC Gaming with clear text:*
> 
> Change the input to Game Console by editing the input and change the label to something other than PC Next, go to your graphics card control panel and change the Output color format to RGB & Output dynamic range to Full. Change Special Viewing Mode under your TV's picture settings to Game Mode. With these settings you'll get practically the same image as PC Mode/4:4;4 as well as only 20ms input lag instead of 35ms. If you want colors to be a little more vibrant, adjust Digital Vibrance to your liking. This can be found in the Nvidia Control Panel under Adjust desktop color settings. With AMD GPU's, it should be under Display Color, Saturation.
> 
> Enable HDMI UHD Color on every input. Under Picture Size I have 16:9 and Fit to Screen enabled. Under Expert Settings choose backlight @ whatever you're comfy with, Brightness @ 43, contrast @ 95, sharpness @ 0 and color at 50, Dynamic Contrast @ Off (Medium/High if you prefer), Smart LED @ High, color tone Warm1 (or 2, whatever you prefer), Gamma at 0 and Color Space @ Auto.
> 
> *PC Mode with 4:4:4 enabled:*
> 
> Make sure the HDMI input is labeled PC. This will enable true 4:4:4. Next, go to your graphics card control panel and change the Output color format to RGB & Output dynamic range to Full. This should be default when using Nvidia GPU's.
> 
> Make sure HDMI UHD is enabled on every input. Under Picture Mode, choose Standard and then disable every option under ECO Solution. Under expert settings choose backlight @ whatever you're comfy with, brightness @ 43, contrast @ 95, sharpness @ 0 and color at 50, Smart LED @ High, HDMI black level @ Normal and color tone @ Warm1 (or 2, whatever you prefer).
> 
> *PC Gaming with HDR Enabled:*
> 
> For optimum results, switch to Game Mode and use the picture settings posted above for Game Mode. You will also need to change Output Color Format to YCbCr420 and Output color depth to 12 bpc. These two settings can usually be found in your graphics card control panel.


Good to know all that. I just got this tv last week and I've been fiddling around with it. Maybe my eyes and reflexes just suck, but Doom 2016 seems fine so far in pc mode at 1080p. I am playing on a laptop with just a gtx980m, so I can exactly test 4k yet. But I wanted a nice, flexible tv that upscales really well in addition to displaying native resolution content well. On rtings.com they seem to have managed pc mode with hdr, but maybe a recent firmware screwed that up. You probably know better than me, honestly. What I really made an account here for though, is to ask someone with a laptop or desktop with an hdmi 2.0 port if they've managed to force 120 hz at 1080p on recent firmware updates. Or if someone who has that 75 british pound input lag tester everyone seems to consider the gold standard could check with recent firmware updates and see if Samsung has responded to the challenge LG OLED and Vizio P series tv's pose on the input lag front with their own huge improvements via firmware update. Back in November when I first started tracking the KS8000 it seemed to be the king of 4k gaming tv's, but now, when the Black Friday prices have come back again, it seems this isn't as clearly the case anymore. I've heard rumor they'll add hdmi 2.1 support via firmware, and if they can manage a big change like that I'm holding out hope they'll recognize that with a few tweaks they could really set these SUHD line tv's up as being about as good as it can get for a tv's as pc monitors. I doubt I'd hit 120 hz with good details in recent games of course, but it would be nice if I could adjust things up to, say, 72 hz, and see how I like it.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattchion*
> 
> Good to know all that. I just got this tv last week and I've been fiddling around with it. Maybe my eyes and reflexes just suck, but Doom 2016 seems fine so far in pc mode at 1080p. I am playing on a laptop with just a gtx980m, so I can exactly test 4k yet. But I wanted a nice, flexible tv that upscales really well in addition to displaying native resolution content well. On rtings.com they seem to have managed pc mode with hdr, but maybe a recent firmware screwed that up. You probably know better than me, honestly. What I really made an account here for though, is to ask someone with a laptop or desktop with an hdmi 2.0 port if they've managed to force 120 hz at 1080p on recent firmware updates. Or if someone who has that 75 british pound input lag tester everyone seems to consider the gold standard could check with recent firmware updates and see if Samsung has responded to the challenge LG OLED and Vizio P series tv's pose on the input lag front with their own huge improvements via firmware update. Back in November when I first started tracking the KS8000 it seemed to be the king of 4k gaming tv's, but now, when the Black Friday prices have come back again, it seems this isn't as clearly the case anymore. I've heard rumor they'll add hdmi 2.1 support via firmware, and if they can manage a big change like that I'm holding out hope they'll recognize that with a few tweaks they could really set these SUHD line tv's up as being about as good as it can get for a tv's as pc monitors. I doubt I'd hit 120 hz with good details in recent games of course, but it would be nice if I could adjust things up to, say, 72 hz, and see how I like it.


1. PC Mode + HDR is possible but the display won't output HDR correctly. The image will be washed out.

2. 1080p + 120Hz is not possible on this display.

3. Nobody knows if HDMI 2.1 is a software or hardware update.


----------



## Mattchion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> 1. PC Mode + HDR is possible but the display won't output HDR correctly. The image will be washed out.
> 
> 2. 1080p + 120Hz is not possible on this display.
> 
> 3. Nobody knows if HDMI 2.1 is a software or hardware update.


Alright, thanks. It does seem really iffy on whether any of the new hdmi features are one or the other. Game vrr would be great to have on this (if it inherently unlocks the tv's full potential frame rate wise).


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Now I have a problem. Last night I was testing the TV and streaming Mozart in the Jungle and HDR was working great. Well today HDR refuses to enable. I dont even think its 4k. What could be going on? The only thing I can think is that im using an old HDMI cable until my new ones come in on Wednesday.


I just wanted to quote myself and update this post. I tried again the following day and all is well. I'm pretty sure it was an Amazon streaming issue not my TV.


----------



## Shaded War

I just started playing Resident evil 7 on PC and calibrated HDR settings for my 55" KS8000.

It's hard for my phone's camera to focus on HDR and pick up darker areas, but the effect is massive when viewed in person. I can't wait to see more games and monitors support this in the future.









HDR OFF

HDR ON


HDR OFF

HDR ON


----------



## TheCautiousOne

The Detail is very different!

TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> The Detail is very different!
> 
> TCO


Can you please update the OP?

Seems like Shadow Warrior 2 and Resident Evil - Biohazard support HDR on PC. Next up is Hitman and Mass Effect Andromeda. I have discovered the correct settings in order to get HDR working correctly. Unfortunately, PC Mode does NOT support 10 bpc which is a requirement for HDR so games appear washed out. Below are my latest updated and finalized picture settings.

*Game Mode for PC Gaming with clear text:*

Change the input to Game Console by editing the input and change the label to something other than PC Next, go to your graphics card control panel and change the Output color format to RGB & Output dynamic range to Full. Change Special Viewing Mode under your TV's picture settings to Game Mode. With these settings you'll get practically the same image as PC Mode/4:4;4 as well as only 20ms input lag instead of 35ms. If you want colors to be a little more vibrant, adjust Digital Vibrance to your liking. This can be found in the Nvidia Control Panel under Adjust desktop color settings. With AMD GPU's, it should be under Display Color, Saturation.

Enable HDMI UHD Color on every input. Under Picture Size I have 16:9 and Fit to Screen enabled. Under Expert Settings choose backlight @ whatever you're comfy with, Brightness @ 43, contrast @ 95, sharpness @ 0 and color at 50, Dynamic Contrast @ Off (Medium/High if you prefer), Smart LED @ High, color tone Warm1 (or 2, whatever you prefer), Gamma at 0 and Color Space @ Auto.

*PC Mode with 4:4:4 enabled:*

Make sure the HDMI input is labeled PC. This will enable true 4:4:4. Next, go to your graphics card control panel and change the Output color format to RGB & Output dynamic range to Full. This should be default when using Nvidia GPU's.

Make sure HDMI UHD is enabled on every input. Under Picture Mode, choose Standard and then disable every option under ECO Solution. Under expert settings choose backlight @ whatever you're comfy with, brightness @ 43, contrast @ 95, sharpness @ 0 and color at 50, Smart LED @ High, HDMI black level @ Normal and color tone @ Warm1 (or 2, whatever you prefer).

*PC Gaming with HDR Enabled:*

For optimum results, switch to Game Mode and use the picture settings posted above for Game Mode. You will also need to change Output Color Format to YCbCr420 and Output color depth to 12 bpc. These two settings can usually be found in your graphics card control panel.


----------



## Shaded War

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Can you please update the OP?
> 
> Seems like Shadow Warrior 2 and Resident Evil - Biohazard support HDR on PC. Next up is Hitman and Mass Effect Andromeda. I have discovered the correct settings in order to get HDR working correctly. Unfortunately, PC Mode does NOT support 10 bpc which is a requirement for HDR so games appear washed out. Below are my latest updated and finalized picture settings.
> 
> *Game Mode for PC Gaming with clear text:*
> 
> Change the input to Game Console by editing the input and change the label to something other than PC Next, go to your graphics card control panel and change the Output color format to RGB & Output dynamic range to Full. Change Special Viewing Mode under your TV's picture settings to Game Mode. With these settings you'll get practically the same image as PC Mode/4:4;4 as well as only 20ms input lag instead of 35ms. If you want colors to be a little more vibrant, adjust Digital Vibrance to your liking. This can be found in the Nvidia Control Panel under Adjust desktop color settings. With AMD GPU's, it should be under Display Color, Saturation.
> 
> Enable HDMI UHD Color on every input. Under Picture Size I have 16:9 and Fit to Screen enabled. Under Expert Settings choose backlight @ whatever you're comfy with, Brightness @ 43, contrast @ 95, sharpness @ 0 and color at 50, Dynamic Contrast @ Off (Medium/High if you prefer), Smart LED @ High, color tone Warm1 (or 2, whatever you prefer), Gamma at 0 and Color Space @ Auto.
> 
> *PC Mode with 4:4:4 enabled:*
> 
> Make sure the HDMI input is labeled PC. This will enable true 4:4:4. Next, go to your graphics card control panel and change the Output color format to RGB & Output dynamic range to Full. This should be default when using Nvidia GPU's.
> 
> Make sure HDMI UHD is enabled on every input. Under Picture Mode, choose Standard and then disable every option under ECO Solution. Under expert settings choose backlight @ whatever you're comfy with, brightness @ 43, contrast @ 95, sharpness @ 0 and color at 50, Smart LED @ High, HDMI black level @ Normal and color tone @ Warm1 (or 2, whatever you prefer).
> 
> *PC Gaming with HDR Enabled:*
> 
> For optimum results, switch to Game Mode and use the picture settings posted above for Game Mode. You will also need to change Output Color Format to YCbCr420 and Output color depth to 12 bpc. These two settings can usually be found in your graphics card control panel.


I set the input as game console and enabled pc mode on the TV. No eco options enabled, backlight at 8.

I cannot enable anything above 8bpc in Nvidia control panel under any combination settings. The only mode that lets me switch the dynamic range is RGB mode, all YCbCr types gray out the box to switch it to full.

Enabling RGB Full makes my screen lose almost all shades of black on this test. basically anything above the bottom row all look pure black.


I'v been running at 4:4:4 8bpc limited, because thats the best it will let me go in control panel. When I enable HDR in RE7, the TV shows HDR video is playing and everything looks like it's working, as can be seen in my pictures I posted.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> I set the input as game console and enabled pc mode on the TV. No eco options enabled, backlight at 8.
> 
> I cannot enable anything above 8bpc in Nvidia control panel under any combination settings. The only mode that lets me switch the dynamic range is RGB mode, all YCbCr types gray out the box to switch it to full.
> 
> Enabling RGB Full makes my screen lose almost all shades of black on this test. basically anything above the bottom row all look pure black.
> 
> 
> I'v been running at 4:4:4 8bpc limited, because thats the best it will let me go in control panel. When I enable HDR in RE7, the TV shows HDR video is playing and everything looks like it's working, as can be seen in my pictures I posted.


You can't enable Game Mode with PC Mode. It's one or the other. When you enable RGB Full, make sure you set HDMI black level @ Normal in your TV's picture settings.

For HDR, you need to choose 4:2:0 with 12 bpc in Game Mode.


----------



## Shaded War

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> You can't enable Game Mode with PC Mode. It's one or the other. When you enable RGB Full, make sure you set HDMI black level @ Normal in your TV's picture settings.
> 
> For HDR, you need to choose 4:2:0 with 12 bpc in Game Mode.


I set the input as game console in the TV options, not PC. I wantedd to take advantage of the game mode, so I did that.

Do I have to set the TV back to PC mode for higher than 8bpc? I'm not sure what you are trying to get at, because I'v never seen 10 or 12bpc options available before. I literally cannot select them, they are not even listed as an option.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> I set the input as game console in the TV options, not PC. I wantedd to take advantage of the game mode, so I did that.
> 
> Do I have to set the TV back to PC mode for higher than 8bpc? I'm not sure what you are trying to get at, because I'v never seen 10 or 12bpc options available before. I literally cannot select them, they are not even listed as an option.


Pay attention to my listed settings posted above. In order to get fully working HDR in games, you will need to set it to 4:2:0 and 12 bpc. With 4:4:4/RGB, the TV will not properly display HDR since 10+ bpc is needed.


----------



## Shaded War

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> I set the input as game console in the TV options, not PC. I wantedd to take advantage of the game mode, so I did that.
> 
> Do I have to set the TV back to PC mode for higher than 8bpc? I'm not sure what you are trying to get at, because I'v never seen 10 or 12bpc options available before. I literally cannot select them, they are not even listed as an option.
> 
> 
> 
> Pay attention to my listed settings posted above. In order to get fully working HDR in games, you will need to set it to 4:2:0 and 12 bpc. With 4:4:4/RGB, the TV will not properly display HDR since 10+ bpc is needed.
Click to expand...

I don't have 10 or 12bpc as an option. Doesn't matter if i set the tv to game console with game mode, or pc mode. This is my options


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shaded War*
> 
> I don't have 10 or 12bpc as an option. Doesn't matter if i set the tv to game console with game mode, or pc mode. This is my options


Did you enable/apply 4:2:0 before trying to change bpc?


----------



## Shaded War

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Did you enable/apply 4:2:0 before trying to change bpc?


Ok, this is something I overlooked. After applying 4:2:0 then going back to control panel, it lets me pick from 8 and 12bpc.

I also made the small tweaks you made in TV settings to try out. Going to load up RE7 and try it again.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@DADDYDC650

OP Updated









TCO


----------



## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Pay attention to my listed settings posted above. In order to get fully working HDR in games, you will need to set it to 4:2:0 and 12 bpc. With 4:4:4/RGB, the TV will not properly display HDR since 10+ bpc is needed.


It's not yet established. I don't know why Samsung TV's show 12 bpc,but they can't show 36 bits of color. It most likely is the FRC buffer or something,in order to reach true 10 bit. You should use 4:2:2 wich has minimal effect on picture quality and 10 bit.

For knowledge,PS4 outputs HDR at 4:2:2 10 bit,but some games go up to 12 bit,causing banding issues because the TV's can't display 36 bit of color,hence only 10 bit should be used.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> It's not yet established. I don't know why Samsung TV's show 12 bpc,but they can't show 36 bits of color. It most likely is the FRC buffer or something,in order to reach true 10 bit. You should use 4:2:2 wich has minimal effect on picture quality and 10 bit.
> 
> For knowledge,PS4 outputs HDR at 4:2:2 10 bit,but some games go up to 12 bit,causing banding issues because the TV's can't display 36 bit of color,hence only 10 bit should be used.


PS4 PRO

4K 4:2:0 for HDR and 4K RGB for TV's without HDR.


----------



## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> PS4 PRO
> 
> 4K 4:2:0 for HDR and 4K RGB for TV's without HDR.


If you leave it in automatic,the way it's supposed to be,it will switch to 4:2:2 10 bit for HDR and RGB for SDR.

4:20 is there to help with TV's that have HDMI 1.4


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> If you leave it in automatic,the way it's supposed to be,it will switch to 4:2:2 10 bit for HDR and RGB for SDR.
> 
> 4:20 is there to help with TV's that have HDMI 1.4


Not according to Digital Foundry.


----------



## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Not according to Digital Foundry.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Tb7i6uVWIo


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Tb7i6uVWIo


This has nothing to do with the KS8000/PC gaming. The KS8000 won't output HDR properly with 4:2:2 10 bpc. I've done extensive testing and you are free to try for yourself. 4:2:0 12 bpc for HDR works perfectly.

BTW, that video makes no mention of 4:2:2 10 bpc working best for PS4 games. All it mentions is to leave settings on auto.


----------



## Mattchion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> 1. PC Mode + HDR is possible but the display won't output HDR correctly. The image will be washed out.
> 
> 2. 1080p + 120Hz is not possible on this display.
> 
> 3. Nobody knows if HDMI 2.1 is a software or hardware update.


I have an optimus equipped laptop: GTX980m chained to an Intel HD 4600 on the 4710mq cpu. I've been trying to trip deep color in both gpu's for output so I can check the gradient .tiff file RTINGS.com uses against my panel's performance. My best lead was using MPC HC with Madvr as the renderer to make a robust media player use a full screen mode that draws on Directx 11, thus allowing the gpu's to output 10 bit color to my tv, in theory. What's really weird is, when I enable LAV Video Decoder with RGB48, the banding on the gradient becomes more pronounced, whereas with it disabled and thus the decoding or whatever that thing is doing is done in 8 bit according the live madvr debug stats, but being output in 10 bit by madvr still with d3d 11, 10 bit support set in the options, the gradient gets really smooth except in the grey top bar, and the darker green bar. Both of those are kinda choppy on the left half still. In either test, dithering is disabled in madvr. In the gpu settings i have no access thanks to intel hiding a lot of the bit depth stuff and nividia not even bothering to let me see their settings in optimus mode.

I dunno. I have a feeling the hours I wasted on this today and yesterday were not well spent, but having spent quite a bit on this tv, even at the sale price of 900 or so (I don't have EPP access and didn't even know about it until a couple days ago, but I did get it for about 860 total through a different discount and I bought from walmart.com, guaranteeing a smoother return process via in store return if I find any defects within the 90 day return period), I would like to test it thoroughly to make sure I got a good panel. I love a lot of things about this tv, even if I wish they'd unlock 120 fps 1080p with a firmware update, and knowing that in pc mode hdr is messed is a bit of a let down.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattchion*
> 
> I have an optimus equipped laptop: GTX980m chained to an Intel HD 4600 on the 4710mq cpu. I've been trying to trip deep color in both gpu's for output so I can check the gradient .tiff file RTINGS.com uses against my panel's performance. My best lead was using MPC HC with Madvr as the renderer to make a robust media player use a full screen mode that draws on Directx 11, thus allowing the gpu's to output 10 bit color to my tv, in theory. What's really weird is, when I enable LAV Video Decoder with RGB48, the banding on the gradient becomes more pronounced, whereas with it disabled and thus the decoding or whatever that thing is doing is done in 8 bit according the live madvr debug stats, but being output in 10 bit by madvr still with d3d 11, 10 bit support set in the options, the gradient gets really smooth except in the grey top bar, and the darker green bar. Both of those are kinda choppy on the left half still. In either test, dithering is disabled in madvr. In the gpu settings i have no access thanks to intel hiding a lot of the bit depth stuff and nividia not even bothering to let me see their settings in optimus mode.
> 
> I dunno. I have a feeling the hours I wasted on this today and yesterday were not well spent, but having spent quite a bit on this tv, even at the sale price of 900 or so (I don't have EPP access and didn't even know about it until a couple days ago, but I did get it for about 860 total through a different discount and I bought from walmart.com, guaranteeing a smoother return process via in store return if I find any defects within the 90 day return period), I would like to test it thoroughly to make sure I got a good panel. I love a lot of things about this tv, even if I wish they'd unlock 120 fps 1080p with a firmware update, and knowing that in pc mode hdr is messed is a bit of a let down.


1. Most of the stuff you are saying is above my pay grade. Not sure why you wouldn't have the same panel as the rest of us. I'd worry about a decent amount of BLB/flash lighting.
2. 1080p 120Hz, why? A big display running @1080p looks like crap although I guess it would be a decent option to have
3. HDMI 2.0 is to blame for not having HDR 10 bpc in PC Mode 4:4:4.


----------



## Mattchion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> 1. Most of the stuff you are saying is above my pay grade. Not sure why you wouldn't have the same panel as the rest of us. I'd worry about a decent amount of BLB/flash lighting.
> 2. 1080p 120Hz, why? A big display running @1080p looks like crap although I guess it would be a decent option to have
> 3. HDMI 2.0 is to blame for not having HDR 10 bpc in PC Mode 4:4:4.


1. Understood, I wasn't sure if you'd know anything about what I've been getting into here or not. It's just becoming clear to me that a few things shoved in with hdr10 in mind on this tv have benefits elsewhere if they can be tapped. It's possible hdmi is blocking 10 bit color in full screen applications but it's also possible something about my attempted test setup is, and I just need to get a game with a good 10 bit option that's immediately apparent in its effect somewhere versus the standard 8 bit color depth.
2. Because even my card could render many recent games at high settings at rates up to at least 75 hz and they should run smoother for it. 60 hz has been nice on my laptop here and on the tv so far, but it would be nice if that 120 hz panel could be fully used for more than interpolating 60hz content. I haven't looked closely at game mode but I watch a lot in 1080p and this tv is good at making that look pretty good to me. I also have the 49 inch, so it's not crazy huge really. Part of what spurred me into trying mid to high end 4k tv's is that they are generally good at upscaling hd content, at least certain models anyways.
3. I forgot that, sorry. I've looked at the hdmi specs a lot recently I should have remembered that the bandwidth actually can't do 4k at 60hz with hdr and 4:4:4 at the same time. I was more focused on finding wiggle room for 1080p over 60hz until I was certain that the tv was quite adamantly opposed to that. It's still nice to know how to make proper custom resolutions on my laptop though.


----------



## Mattchion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Seems like Shadow Warrior 2 and Resident Evil - Biohazard support HDR on PC. Next up is Hitman and Mass Effect Andromeda. I have discovered the correct settings in order to get HDR working correctly. Unfortunately, PC Mode does NOT support 10 bpc which is a requirement for HDR so games appear washed out. Below are my latest updated and finalized picture settings.
> 
> *Game Mode for PC Gaming with clear text:*
> 
> Change the input to Game Console by editing the input and change the label to something other than PC Next, go to your graphics card control panel and change the Output color format to RGB & Output dynamic range to Full. Change Special Viewing Mode under your TV's picture settings to Game Mode. With these settings you'll get practically the same image as PC Mode/4:4;4 as well as only 20ms input lag instead of 35ms. If you want colors to be a little more vibrant, adjust Digital Vibrance to your liking. This can be found in the Nvidia Control Panel under Adjust desktop color settings. With AMD GPU's, it should be under Display Color, Saturation.
> 
> Enable HDMI UHD Color on every input. Under Picture Size I have 16:9 and Fit to Screen enabled. Under Expert Settings choose backlight @ whatever you're comfy with, Brightness @ 43, contrast @ 95, sharpness @ 0 and color at 50, Dynamic Contrast @ Off (Medium/High if you prefer), Smart LED @ High, color tone Warm1 (or 2, whatever you prefer), Gamma at 0 and Color Space @ Auto.
> 
> *PC Mode with 4:4:4 enabled:*
> 
> Make sure the HDMI input is labeled PC. This will enable true 4:4:4. Next, go to your graphics card control panel and change the Output color format to RGB & Output dynamic range to Full. This should be default when using Nvidia GPU's.
> 
> Make sure HDMI UHD is enabled on every input. Under Picture Mode, choose Standard and then disable every option under ECO Solution. Under expert settings choose backlight @ whatever you're comfy with, brightness @ 43, contrast @ 95, sharpness @ 0 and color at 50, Smart LED @ High, HDMI black level @ Normal and color tone @ Warm1 (or 2, whatever you prefer).
> 
> *PC Gaming with HDR Enabled:*
> 
> For optimum results, switch to Game Mode and use the picture settings posted above for Game Mode. You will also need to change Output Color Format to YCbCr420 and Output color depth to 12 bpc. These two settings can usually be found in your graphics card control panel.


Something new and strange is going on for me. I have hdmi black set to normal, full rgb output to my tv set on my laptop, and I'm trying to game at 1080p, because my gpu can easily get 60 hz steady on most games at high and ultra settings at that resolution. With input from the laptop set to pc, when I open a full screen game, the tv switches picture mode to game mode (showing the classic ps face buttons if you look at it in the quick settings shown on the smart hub bar), and input somehow leaps to 4096 by 2160 resolution. I don't know what's going on. Tonight I'll try and see if I can get back to desktop with a game running and open the graphics control panel while the resolution is still at max (according to the tv. I believe it because the program I use to watch my cpu and gpu temps and usage and framerates shows that I'm locked at 30 hz, the max my hdmi 1.4 port on my laptop can output; which at that resolution on my gtx980m runs and looks unexpectedly quite good to me, as someone who grew up on consoles, but this still not the behavior I want, nor behavior I have any obvious control of, since once the game closes it's right back to 1080p (and standard pc mode).

The pc auto game mode is a peculiar feature to hide on this tv (at least with the firmware I have it's something that's there...somehow), and I'd approve of it, except clearly something on my pc is detecting it as a new monitor or something and defaulting to max resolution. Even when I'm cloning the display (laptop is 1080p), it somehow is sending something different to the tv, or the tv is forcing it's own max resolution, which makes no sense, but all I can do is openly speculate at this point.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattchion*
> 
> Something new and strange is going on for me. I have hdmi black set to normal, full rgb output to my tv set on my laptop, and I'm trying to game at 1080p, because my gpu can easily get 60 hz steady on most games at high and ultra settings at that resolution. With input from the laptop set to pc, when I open a full screen game, the tv switches picture mode to game mode (showing the classic ps face buttons if you look at it in the quick settings shown on the smart hub bar), and input somehow leaps to 4096 by 2160 resolution. I don't know what's going on. Tonight I'll try and see if I can get back to desktop with a game running and open the graphics control panel while the resolution is still at max (according to the tv. I believe it because the program I use to watch my cpu and gpu temps and usage and framerates shows that I'm locked at 30 hz, the max my hdmi 1.4 port on my laptop can output; which at that resolution on my gtx980m runs and looks unexpectedly quite good to me, as someone who grew up on consoles, but this still not the behavior I want, nor behavior I have any obvious control of, since once the game closes it's right back to 1080p (and standard pc mode).
> 
> The pc auto game mode is a peculiar feature to hide on this tv (at least with the firmware I have it's something that's there...somehow), and I'd approve of it, except clearly something on my pc is detecting it as a new monitor or something and defaulting to max resolution. Even when I'm cloning the display (laptop is 1080p), it somehow is sending something different to the tv, or the tv is forcing it's own max resolution, which makes no sense, but all I can do is openly speculate at this point.


If your display info is reporting 4K it's because it upscales to 4K no matter what res you have selected. If a game is set to run at 1080p then that's what it's running at.

As for your display switching to game mode, does it switch back to PC mode when you exit out of the game?


----------



## Mattchion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> If your display info is reporting 4K it's because it upscales to 4K no matter what res you have selected. If a game is set to run at 1080p then that's what it's running at.
> 
> As for your display switching to game mode, does it switch back to PC mode when you exit out of the game?


Yes. And I go to the 123 button on the remote and scroll over to the I to get it to pull up the info on what it's being fed, I know what you mean though, of course it scales to its resolution (except in the case of 4096, I have to go into it's own settings and manually change display scale to get it to show that with fit to screen); but in info it always just shows what it's being fed, in the case of smarter devices like consoles and pc's anyways. I have no idea what it does with basic dvd players, for example.

I managed to set up an extended desktop and watched the resolution settings in the Intel Graphics properties as shown on the secondary monitor (my laptop) as I started a fullscreen game. Normally my tv is configured in those propertines to maintain display scaling. This was set by default and I saw no reason to change it. But when a game opens now, it switches to Scale Full Screen, and the only way to stop that is to make a macro that controls display scaling by toggle even while a game is fullscreen, if that's even possible. I have no way to see what the hell resolution the games are actually playing in, but the tv says it's getting 4k input. Obviously the tv cannot force the pc to give it a resolution. I know it's not just the tv glitching in this hidden automatic game mode, unless it's hijacking vsync to demand only 30hz while upscaling too far (4096 by 2160 doesn't fit quite right without changing the display settings) and reporting that as what the input is giving it (a very unlikely behavior unless the firmware is ****ed, because if I disable game mode the resolution coming is still stuck at 4k). Assuming this is unlikely, the pc is halving framerates to suit the bandwidth of my hdmi 1.4 port while it pushes out the max resolution the ks8000 can accept, when running full screen applications, yet the Intel graphics settings are not changing other than the display scaling setting, unless the gui isn't updating properly.


----------



## Mattchion

If I set a game to windowed mode, the resolution stays at 1080p. But the tv doesn't activate the hidden game mode. Though, I'd be willing to try 4k at 30 hz. But I'd rather it be at the tv's native resolution. Anyways, perhaps the tv is having a hand in this. Though how or why, I don't know.


----------



## GoLDii3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> This has nothing to do with the KS8000/PC gaming. The KS8000 won't output HDR properly with 4:2:2 10 bpc. I've done extensive testing and you are free to try for yourself. 4:2:0 12 bpc for HDR works perfectly.
> 
> BTW, that video makes no mention of 4:2:2 10 bpc working best for PS4 games. All it mentions is to leave settings on auto.


Yeah,and auto outputs 4:2:2 at 10 bit.

Chroma subsampling has nothing to do with HDR. HDR can work with whatever subsampling you want it. The limiting factor will be bandwith,one day games are going to run in HDR 4:4:4 at 10 bit.

In fact you can already do that if you play at 1080p.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> Yeah,and auto outputs 4:2:2 at 10 bit.
> 
> Chroma subsampling has nothing to do with HDR. HDR can work with whatever subsampling you want it. The limiting factor will be bandwith,one day games are going to run in HDR 4:4:4 at 10 bit.
> 
> In fact you can already do that if you play at 1080p.


I tried playing Shadow Warrior 2 using HDR, 4:2:2/10 bpc and it did not display properly. Colors were all wrong and the image was darker. 4:2:0/12 bpc displayed the image properly. I don't know about the PS4 Pro since I don't own one and my settings were for PC.


----------



## Roxborough

Hey guys,

Just got a new laptop to replace my sig rig:

Eurocom Clevo P377SM-A 980m SLI, 16gb RAM, i7 4710mq

And I cannot output to this TV, it is recognised in Nvidia control panel. But it just will not output at all. I read a topic stating it might be HDCP, but it says it is compatible....

I have spent the last 3 hours wrecking my brains trying to connect to this TV.

The laptop HDMI port works, I have tested it on my Toshiba 32" 1080p TV in the bedroom.

I have a Dell Docking Station D3100, I have tried to output through that to no avail.

I have connected directly to the TV via HDMI, tried all of the ports, ARC, and PC port... Every setting. Removed Game Mode...

Tried my BIOS in the laptop, has some strange thunderbolt display settings from intel. At first I couldn't connect wirelessly but after messing with the BIOS I managed to get it working ( I will edit a picture in after posting as it is on my mobile).

Does ANYONE have ANY experience with not getting output from a laptop to this TV?

Someone recommended using a 4K HDMI switcher that will bypass HDCP. If that is the case, I will get one and try it out.

I am at my wits end, I can't figure out a way of connecting this laptop to the TV, any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Just got a new laptop to replace my sig rig:
> 
> Eurocom Clevo P377SM-A 980m SLI, 16gb RAM, i7 4710mq
> 
> And I cannot output to this TV, it is recognised in Nvidia control panel. But it just will not output at all. I read a topic stating it might be HDCP, but it says it is compatible....
> 
> I have spent the last 3 hours wrecking my brains trying to connect to this TV.
> 
> The laptop HDMI port works, I have tested it on my Toshiba 32" 1080p TV in the bedroom.
> 
> I have a Dell Docking Station D3100, I have tried to output through that to no avail.
> 
> I have connected directly to the TV via HDMI, tried all of the ports, ARC, and PC port... Every setting. Removed Game Mode...
> 
> Tried my BIOS in the laptop, has some strange thunderbolt display settings from intel. At first I couldn't connect wirelessly but after messing with the BIOS I managed to get it working ( I will edit a picture in after posting as it is on my mobile).
> 
> Does ANYONE have ANY experience with not getting output from a laptop to this TV?
> 
> Someone recommended using a 4K HDMI switcher that will bypass HDCP. If that is the case, I will get one and try it out.
> 
> I am at my wits end, I can't figure out a way of connecting this laptop to the TV, any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.


If I am understanding you correctly, you can see the TV being recognized on the laptop, but can't get an image to actually display on the TV, correct?
If that is the case, it sounds to me like an outdated HDMI cable. You don't need a $50+ cable, but you do need a high-speed HDMI cable.
Get something like a budget mono-price cable or similar that is still quoted as high-speed and try that.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> If I am understanding you correctly, you can see the TV being recognized on the laptop, but can't get an image to actually display on the TV, correct?
> If that is the case, it sounds to me like an outdated HDMI cable. You don't need a $50+ cable, but you do need a high-speed HDMI cable.
> Get something like a budget mono-price cable or similar that is still quoted as high-speed and try that.


I have tried several HDMI cables. In all different ports. And you are correct in assuming it is detected but no output yes.

Thank you so much your input!


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I have tried several HDMI cables. In all different ports. And you are correct in assuming it is detected but no output yes.
> 
> Thank you so much your input!


I'm guessing you have already ran DDR and then installed the latest drivers?


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I have tried several HDMI cables. In all different ports. And you are correct in assuming it is detected but no output yes.
> 
> Thank you so much your input!


Good to try others, but do you know if any where high-speed?
I think most will have it printed on the cable and high-speed cables have been out for a few years at least so i do think at least one of yours would be unless they are all like 5 years old.

Driver update was also a good suggestion.


----------



## Roxborough

I have a billion HDMI cables, all high speed, there is one of my previous posts in this thread of the fancy expensive cable I have. I also bought a few more Amazon high speeds ones. It is definitely not the cables.

I have tried several graphics drivers, I am currently on the latest but I tried the one that came with the laptop and a few I found on forums.

I have tried all kinds of nvidia settings and BIOS settings, I have never come across an issue like this that I cannot solve. =/

Even in work we have a Samsung TV so I will see if it works on that. I bet it is just Samsung. The guy I bought the laptop off said his ku6000 was flickering to black and never displayed a lot of his other laptops.

I am going to go with the idea that this is an HDCP issue. Or possibly my windows 10 isn't activated because I only had a one time key and used it, planning on getting one today =( I could try my genuine Windows 7.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> I have a billion HDMI cables, all high speed, there is one of my previous posts in this thread of the fancy expensive cable I have. I also bought a few more Amazon high speeds ones. It is definitely not the cables.
> 
> I have tried several graphics drivers, I am currently on the latest but I tried the one that came with the laptop and a few I found on forums.
> 
> I have tried all kinds of nvidia settings and BIOS settings, I have never come across an issue like this that I cannot solve. =/
> 
> Even in work we have a Samsung TV so I will see if it works on that. I bet it is just Samsung. The guy I bought the laptop off said his ku6000 was flickering to black and never displayed a lot of his other laptops.
> 
> I am going to go with the idea that this is an HDCP issue. Or possibly my windows 10 isn't activated because I only had a one time key and used it, planning on getting one today =( I could try my genuine Windows 7.


Have you ran DDU before installing the latest Nvidia driver?


----------



## Roxborough

Yep and removed registries in regedit. =/


----------



## Inelastic

I decided to get the curved, KS8500, version. Since I'm using it as a monitor, having it curved makes a big difference for me.


----------



## Foxrun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> I decided to get the curved, KS8500, version. Since I'm using it as a monitor, having it curved makes a big difference for me.


Awesome setup! I like the stein in the corner.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> I decided to get the curved, KS8500, version. Since I'm using it as a monitor, having it curved makes a big difference for me.


Nice setup!

I was thinking of the curve but it was about $100 more and the curve is way too small too make a difference in my book. Wish it had a curve like the newest Ultrawide monitors.


----------



## Mattchion

nice. what size is that? I imagine it's at least the 55 inch, because I can't see my keyboard and mouse fitting quite so comfortably between the stands of my 49 inch model. XD


----------



## Mattchion

And I fixed my last issue! Finally found an article worth a damn on fullscreen gaming issues with windows 10. I had a custom display scaling factor set, but once I disabled that and set scaling to 100 percent, all was well. Still...I know the tv at least tries to enter game mode sometimes while opening a game in pc mode. Only briefly before reverting, but still. And I'll have to try again later, but messing with the scaling factor in windows 10 may actually somehow allow it to stick, albeit by forcing your resolution to 4096 by 2160. I wasn't sure this is safe for the tv and I definitely don't have the hdmi port nor gpu to actually game at 4k and 60 hz right now. But my card does do a buttery smooth 30 hz, from what I saw.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foxrun*
> 
> Awesome setup! I like the stein in the corner.


Thanks. My brother got it for me when he was in Belgium on his honeymoon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Nice setup!
> 
> I was thinking of the curve but it was about $100 more and the curve is way too small too make a difference in my book. Wish it had a curve like the newest Ultrawide monitors.


Thanks. The curved and non-curved models are the same price right now at Best Buy so it wasn't a monetary decision for me







. Have you seen one of those curved monitors in person? I haven't. I'm wondering how they look when watching a movie from like 9 or 10 feet away.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattchion*
> 
> nice. what size is that? I imagine it's at least the 55 inch, because I can't see my keyboard and mouse fitting quite so comfortably between the stands of my 49 inch model. XD


It's the 49" model.

This is my first 4k really nice tv so I decided I wanted to do something fancy for the background. I use a program called Wallpaper Engine that allows me to use videos as the background. What I did was to take some nice 4K footage in The Witcher 3 for 1 minute at every hour in-game. Then, I put them into a playlist that cycles them every hour. So, I wind up with a background that changes the in-game time depending on my time. So at 4pm my screen looks like:


and at 1am it will look like:


----------



## Roxborough

Hi Guys,

Just a quick update on my issue connecting the laptop to the TV. I am now 99% sure it is an HDCP issue. I am not searching for a 4K HDMI splitter/stripper that will bypass the HDCP. Do you guys have any recommendations? Or is there any software I can use? I am also thinking it could be caused by the custom BIOS from PremaMod on the laptop. In which case... I want to flash my BIOS back to factory. However, Clevo don't make their BIOS versions available online so I am now struggling to find a BIOS for my P377SM-A. If anyone knows of any repository that has my specific BIOS that would be great. I have googled for hours and can't find anything







.


----------



## Mattchion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Just a quick update on my issue connecting the laptop to the TV. I am now 99% sure it is an HDCP issue. I am not searching for a 4K HDMI splitter/stripper that will bypass the HDCP. Do you guys have any recommendations? Or is there any software I can use? I am also thinking it could be caused by the custom BIOS from PremaMod on the laptop. In which case... I want to flash my BIOS back to factory. However, Clevo don't make their BIOS versions available online so I am now struggling to find a BIOS for my P377SM-A. If anyone knows of any repository that has my specific BIOS that would be great. I have googled for hours and can't find anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I really doubt it's your bios, see if you can get in contact with the guy who made it and ask if it's possible just to be sure. I dunno about adapters.


----------



## Mattchion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Just a quick update on my issue connecting the laptop to the TV. I am now 99% sure it is an HDCP issue. I am not searching for a 4K HDMI splitter/stripper that will bypass the HDCP. Do you guys have any recommendations? Or is there any software I can use? I am also thinking it could be caused by the custom BIOS from PremaMod on the laptop. In which case... I want to flash my BIOS back to factory. However, Clevo don't make their BIOS versions available online so I am now struggling to find a BIOS for my P377SM-A. If anyone knows of any repository that has my specific BIOS that would be great. I have googled for hours and can't find anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Wait...did you enable HDMI UHD color on all ports of the tv? You have to do that to unlock proper hdmi 2.0 functionality.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattchion*
> 
> Wait...did you enable HDMI UHD color on all ports of the tv? You have to do that to unlock proper hdmi 2.0 functionality.


Check here for BIOS issue.

And yeah, I have enabled and disabled UHD colour. Good thought though.Believe me, I have tried everything haha. Check here for my thread, that no-one has responded to. I help out a lot of people on OCN, but when I have an issue... it is usually unsolvable because I am the one usually helping haha.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> I tried playing Shadow Warrior 2 using HDR, 4:2:2/10 bpc and it did not display properly. Colors were all wrong and the image was darker. 4:2:0/12 bpc displayed the image properly. I don't know about the PS4 Pro since I don't own one and my settings were for PC.


I have the same issue in Obduction with 4:2:2. The moon texture is blocked by a massive glow. The redish rocks are speckeled with brightly glowing red blocks, and not the red/orangish color in the game actual red. The blue night sky is totally black.

I lowered the refresh rate of my screen to 30Hz and was able to choose 4:4:4/12bpc at 4K. I have noticed a large difference in the coloring between this and 4:2:0/12bpc at 60Hz. The first picture is from 4:4:4

This one is from 4:2:0


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> I have the same issue in Obduction with 4:2:2. The moon texture is blocked by a massive glow. The redish rocks are speckeled with brightly glowing red blocks, and not the red/orangish color in the game actual red. The blue night sky is totally black.
> 
> I lowered the refresh rate of my screen to 30Hz and was able to choose 4:4:4/12bpc at 4K. I have noticed a large difference in the coloring between this and 4:2:0/12bpc at 60Hz. The first picture is from 4:4:4
> 
> This one is from 4:2:0


Seems to me that 4:2:0 4k/60hz 12bpc displays HDR properly.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Seems to me that 4:2:0 4k/60hz 12bpc displays HDR properly.


Yea, you're right. In PC Mode, the colors in 4:4:4 look correct, just not in Game Mode.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Yea, you're right. In PC Mode, the colors in 4:4:4 look correct, just not in Game Mode.


If we could only run 4:4:4 4k/60hz with 10 bpc. Really hoping for that miracle HDMI 2.1 firmware update. Not holding my breath though.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> If we could only run 4:4:4 4k/60hz with 10 bpc. Really hoping for that miracle HDMI 2.1 firmware update. Not holding my breath though.


Yea, that would be nice.


----------



## mrtbahgs

I might need to call in a Samsung tech to visit me for this problem...

Today in the middle of a show via the Hulu app I lost my wireless connection and couldn't get it to reconnect. It is claiming it can't connect to my router.
I have tried turning the TV off and on as well as completely killing the power and restoring it which used to be my typical last resort fix.
I have also turned my modem and router off and back on even though my phone connects to the same WiFi network without trouble.
I tried to connect to another of my 4 networks on my router and it didn't change anything.

I finally dug out my old 50' ethernet cable to hardwire the TV and it connected instantly.
With the ethernet cable connected I forced the TV back to wireless mode and it once again said it couldn't connect.
I am not currently using the TV with the wired connection, but certainly don't want that to be my permanent solution.

Other than a true complete factory reset of the TV which I am trying to avoid and doubt will make much difference over the unplugged power cycle that I tried, is there anything else you can think of doing before I consider this to be a failed wireless card or something on the TV?


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I might need to call in a Samsung tech to visit me for this problem...
> 
> Today in the middle of a show via the Hulu app I lost my wireless connection and couldn't get it to reconnect. It is claiming it can't connect to my router.
> I have tried turning the TV off and on as well as completely killing the power and restoring it which used to be my typical last resort fix.
> I have also turned my modem and router off and back on even though my phone connects to the same WiFi network without trouble.
> I tried to connect to another of my 4 networks on my router and it didn't change anything.
> 
> I finally dug out my old 50' ethernet cable to hardwire the TV and it connected instantly.
> With the ethernet cable connected I forced the TV back to wireless mode and it once again said it couldn't connect.
> I am not currently using the TV with the wired connection, but certainly don't want that to be my permanent solution.
> 
> Other than a true complete factory reset of the TV which I am trying to avoid and doubt will make much difference over the unplugged power cycle that I tried, is there anything else you can think of doing before I consider this to be a failed wireless card or something on the TV?


I would say to try a full rest of the tv. The other option would be to try a different router. I once had the exact same issue with my printer. It just decided that it no longer wanted anything to do with wireless and I had to use an ethernet cable. I stopped short of resetting the router since I didn't care enough to try. Last week I decided to try to use the printer on the wireless again and it worked. I didn't change or do anything different, it just started working again.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I might need to call in a Samsung tech to visit me for this problem...
> 
> Today in the middle of a show via the Hulu app I lost my wireless connection and couldn't get it to reconnect. It is claiming it can't connect to my router.
> I have tried turning the TV off and on as well as completely killing the power and restoring it which used to be my typical last resort fix.
> I have also turned my modem and router off and back on even though my phone connects to the same WiFi network without trouble.
> I tried to connect to another of my 4 networks on my router and it didn't change anything.
> 
> I finally dug out my old 50' ethernet cable to hardwire the TV and it connected instantly.
> With the ethernet cable connected I forced the TV back to wireless mode and it once again said it couldn't connect.
> I am not currently using the TV with the wired connection, but certainly don't want that to be my permanent solution.
> 
> Other than a true complete factory reset of the TV which I am trying to avoid and doubt will make much difference over the unplugged power cycle that I tried, is there anything else you can think of doing before I consider this to be a failed wireless card or something on the TV?


Have you tried posting over at the KS8000 thread @AVSFORUMS? Way more helpful folks there.


----------



## Superplush

Hello!

Just poking my head in since TCO pointed my in this direction.

I've had my KS7500 for some time now and I was curious if there were any owners around and he/she suggested here seems it's a 7 series and there isn't too much difference between the two. Wealth of information in this thread though!

I will ask, for starters, if anyone has had any problems with the connections not finding PCs ?

We had this to start with, leaving VLC media player running in fullscreen overnight with the monitor turned off lead to the morning's switch on to constantly not detect the PC signal. Sometimes even switching the monitor off, unplugging it and swapping HDMI ports didn't work; factory reset always did though. Our solution is just to minimise VLC to a window before the TV is turned off and we've never had the problem.

http://www.samsung.com/uk/tv/KS7500/

Unfortunatly I can't find my KS7500 or the KS7000 on the Rtings site.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Superplush*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> Just poking my head in since TCO pointed my in this direction.
> 
> I've had my KS7500 for some time now and I was curious if there were any owners around and he/she suggested here seems it's a 7 series and there isn't too much difference between the two. Wealth of information in this thread though!
> 
> I will ask, for starters, if anyone has had any problems with the connections not finding PCs ?
> 
> We had this to start with, leaving VLC media player running in fullscreen overnight with the monitor turned off lead to the morning's switch on to constantly not detect the PC signal. Sometimes even switching the monitor off, unplugging it and swapping HDMI ports didn't work; factory reset always did though. Our solution is just to minimise VLC to a window before the TV is turned off and we've never had the problem.
> 
> http://www.samsung.com/uk/tv/KS7500/
> 
> Unfortunatly I can't find my KS7500 or the KS7000 on the Rtings site.


In EU, or atleast Northen Europe, we have KS7005 which is the same thing as US KS8000. The model numbers can sometimes be really confusing between regions... Yours is probably the US KS8000 aswell I think cause you are in UK? Or some KS8xxx model anyway.


----------



## Superplush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> In EU, or atleast Northen Europe, we have KS7005 which is the same thing as US KS8000. The model numbers can sometimes be really confusing between regions... Yours is probably the US KS8000 aswell I think cause you are in UK? Or some KS8xxx model anyway.


My model number is : UE43KS7500

From my understanding..
U : LED TV
E : Europe
43 : Size in inches Diagonally
KS : Model year ( 2016 SUHD )
7 : Model series
500 : Curved screen

I think as well the Round number series go from 49", 55", 60", 65" but the odd numbered "500"'s go from 43", 49", 55", 65" although I can't seem to find any curved 8 series, at least in the UK. I wonder if curved screens have different timings, they seem to have different screen sizes for them.









My GF will kill me for sticking this on here with her in


----------



## TheCautiousOne

The EU monitor that is equivalent to the KS8000 (NA) is the KS7000 (IN EU).

Since the KS8500 is the Curved version of the KS8000, then the KS7500 would be the Equivalent of (NA's) 8500.

Review of the KS8500

Inputs and timings for the KS8500.



TCO


----------



## Mattchion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> If we could only run 4:4:4 4k/60hz with 10 bpc. Really hoping for that miracle HDMI 2.1 firmware update. Not holding my breath though.


Me too. Would be positively thrilled to find out that my new tv will get Game VRR in addition to better hdr 4k color support, making a future desktop build that much nicer to hook up.

Really I'd think Nvidia and AMD would be breathing down the HDMI group's backs about this being a firmware update too. AMD has enough to worry about trying to make some big new chip architecture moves and Nvidia would probably rather not have put in full hdmi 2.0a and hdr support in the 10xx series just to have hdmi 2.1 make the cards feel a tad obsolete not even a year after their release. I can't imagine Intel wants hordes of people whining at them in confusion over why they can't do certain things with their Optimus/6th and 7th gen intel core i laptops either over the next couple years.

Whatever happens though, this new HDMI spec looks incredible. Very much the future proofing update the interface desperately needed. It seems the HDMI group actually listened to the incessant complaints over the bandwidth in the 2.0 spec, and the comparisons to Displayport 1.3 and 1.4. But some of the other new parts are also very pleasant developments.

For now though, I am considering getting this so I can do normal browsing and so on in 4k at 60hz: http://www.club-3d.com/index.php/products/reader.en/product/displayport-12-cable-to-hdmi-20-active-adapter-.html


----------



## Roxborough

Hey guys,

Update on my 980m SLI laptop to Samsung UE55KS7000. Managed to get an output... Wondering if anyone can explain this or come up with a solution. Initially I couldn't get my laptop to output at all to the TV, so I ordered a XA-HDCP device which changes the EDID etc... I decided for £130 it was a little too pricey to do such a basic task. I had a fiddle with the nvidia control panel for the 1,000th time.

I tried 1080p at 50hz with audio disabled... and hey presto, the laptop output to the TV, it takes roughly 3 minutes of a solid black screen to finally make a handshake which is why I never assumed it would ever actually work. It greyed out the colour options and only showing 420. So, I had fixed it, finally, I was connected to the TV on my laptop. I then set the resolution back to 4k, 60hz and it managed it still at 420 though. Great, I thought...

Until I started gaming on it, and realised my 980m SLI cards just do not cut it, so I thought I would try 1440p. No option available for that resolution, everything was completely locked, couldn't set a custom resolution, couldn't do anything. So I thought, I know, I'll set it to 1080 in my games... And no matter what I do... it will not autofit into the screenspace, it is either a box in the corner, or a super-zoomed in image.

I got fed up of changing the settings and I have now come to the conclusion I may need another device that can sort this out. But I don't want to spend loads of money just to get an output.

I was wondering if anyone knows of a software application that can manage the input/output of the laptop to the TV, that will automatically attempt the signal I want, which is ideally 4k RGB (but this is always greyed out), however it did randomly work for about 2 minutes once. It just really struggles with the signal, it is like the laptop is telling the TV multiple things at the same time so it doesn't know what to do.

I wonder if the onboard graphics are interfering, so I disabled them in the BIOS. Made no difference. I tried the other way, disabling the GPU's and only having on-board... still no joy.

I am at my wits end with this issue. So far, this laptop has been an absolute nightmare. I HATE IT. I want my desktop back







but it has already gone.









As always any input is greatly appreciated


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Update on my 980m SLI laptop to Samsung UE55KS7000. Managed to get an output... Wondering if anyone can explain this or come up with a solution. Initially I couldn't get my laptop to output at all to the TV, so I ordered a XA-HDCP device which changes the EDID etc... I decided for £130 it was a little too pricey to do such a basic task. I had a fiddle with the nvidia control panel for the 1,000th time.
> 
> I tried 1080p at 50hz with audio disabled... and hey presto, the laptop output to the TV, it takes roughly 3 minutes of a solid black screen to finally make a handshake which is why I never assumed it would ever actually work. It greyed out the colour options and only showing 420. So, I had fixed it, finally, I was connected to the TV on my laptop. I then set the resolution back to 4k, 60hz and it managed it still at 420 though. Great, I thought...
> 
> Until I started gaming on it, and realised my 980m SLI cards just do not cut it, so I thought I would try 1440p. No option available for that resolution, everything was completely locked, couldn't set a custom resolution, couldn't do anything. So I thought, I know, I'll set it to 1080 in my games... And no matter what I do... it will not autofit into the screenspace, it is either a box in the corner, or a super-zoomed in image.
> 
> I got fed up of changing the settings and I have now come to the conclusion I may need another device that can sort this out. But I don't want to spend loads of money just to get an output.
> 
> I was wondering if anyone knows of a software application that can manage the input/output of the laptop to the TV, that will automatically attempt the signal I want, which is ideally 4k RGB (but this is always greyed out), however it did randomly work for about 2 minutes once. It just really struggles with the signal, it is like the laptop is telling the TV multiple things at the same time so it doesn't know what to do.
> 
> I wonder if the onboard graphics are interfering, so I disabled them in the BIOS. Made no difference. I tried the other way, disabling the GPU's and only having on-board... still no joy.
> 
> I am at my wits end with this issue. So far, this laptop has been an absolute nightmare. I HATE IT. I want my desktop back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but it has already gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always any input is greatly appreciated


You are better off posting in the KS8000 thread over at AVSFORUMS.

BTW, that laptop is nothing but trouble!


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> You are better off posting in the KS8000 thread over at AVSFORUMS.
> 
> *BTW, that laptop is nothing but trouble![*/quote]
> 
> Due to SLI, or the chassis P377SM-A? So far, I am not impressed with the performance, a single 970m in my GF's Alienware handles games with ease, mine just chokes. Thermal throttles and causes numerous issues.


----------



## Mattchion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> You are better off posting in the KS8000 thread over at AVSFORUMS.
> 
> *BTW, that laptop is nothing but trouble![*/quote]
> 
> Due to SLI, or the chassis P377SM-A? So far, I am not impressed with the performance, a single 970m in my GF's Alienware handles games with ease, mine just chokes. Thermal throttles and causes numerous issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you hit fn and 1 at the same time to enable constant max fans while gaming? When did you last take the bay cover off, unscrew the fans, and blow some air in the both sides of the vents/clean out the dust bunnies? Clevo chassis tend to be pretty decent, but the thermal paste does dry out and dust accumulates in the air vents like any other pc. Unlike asus or alienware though, you can easily and quickly dust and repaste as you would in a desktop. Another issue is sli. Disable it and try using just one card. It should outperform a 970m by at least 20 to 33 percent. Sli is not well supported in a lot of games and graphics intensive apps, last I gathered. Did you try using DDU to clean install your nvidia and intel hd (if applicable) drivers?
Click to expand...


----------



## Dry Bonez

Alrighty then, i am back people! So after about 3 months of fighting with Samsung to repair my freaking screen, its FINALLY been repaired! So the issue that i was having and i am sure noone here will believe me, but i can assure you it was very real! So apparantly, these screens are EXTREMELY sensitive. i had cloud looking forms on my screen and are only vivible in a dark screen or when powered off. And yes, i have tried cleaning with a little bit of water and even a lcd tv cleaner with a microfiber to no avail. How did this happen? Well, ANY given time i would "try" to even do anything to it,it would leave permanent marks on the screen. this is one example, if someone cares to test what i am saying then be my guest. So take you preferred solution to clean the screen, clean a small area, and once done, take a flashlight and shine it to the screen an you will see some weird marks on the screen, and in return, it will stay there permanently and if you look at it using peripheral view, then you will notice the clouding i am referring to.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Dry Bonez I believe you. Glad you got it sorted out.

How is the new screen?

TCO


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @Dry Bonez I believe you. Glad you got it sorted out.
> 
> How is the new screen?
> 
> TCO


thanks man, yeah it was a nightmare. But lets talk about this because i dont wanna go thru this again nor do i want anyone else either. So for these screens, whats the safest 100% way of cleaning it? Lets say you see a spot and want to clean it off, how would you approach it? I for one am scared to touch my screen tbh, i am literally horrified and paranoid because of what i went thru


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> 
> Alrighty then, i am back people! So after about 3 months of fighting with Samsung to repair my freaking screen, its FINALLY been repaired! So the issue that i was having and i am sure noone here will believe me, but i can assure you it was very real! So apparantly, these screens are EXTREMELY sensitive. i had cloud looking forms on my screen and are only vivible in a dark screen or when powered off. And yes, i have tried cleaning with a little bit of water and even a lcd tv cleaner with a microfiber to no avail. How did this happen? Well, ANY given time i would "try" to even do anything to it,it would leave permanent marks on the screen. this is one example, if someone cares to test what i am saying then be my guest. So take you preferred solution to clean the screen, clean a small area, and once done, take a flashlight and shine it to the screen an you will see some weird marks on the screen, and in return, it will stay there permanently and if you look at it using peripheral view, then you will notice the clouding i am referring to.


I ran into this same issue on a 65KS8500. Crap was all over the screen. This is why I'm afraid to even clean my 49KS8000. Not only does the glass scratch easily but I might end up with clouding.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> thanks man, yeah it was a nightmare. But lets talk about this because i dont wanna go thru this again nor do i want anyone else either. *So for these screens, whats the safest 100% way of cleaning it? Lets say you see a spot and want to clean it off, how would you approach it?* I for one am scared to touch my screen tbh, i am literally horrified and paranoid because of what i went thru


I would use no solvent (According to your findings) and have a brand new microfiber or very very soft type of towel.

TCO

EDIT: I found some I had purchased at autozone that is super soft.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> @Dry Bonez I believe you. Glad you got it sorted out.
> 
> How is the new screen?
> 
> TCO


The new screen is AMAZING! i will not lie, my other screen had 4 dead pixels near the center of the screen and the ******ed clouding issue i was having. But this new screen is wow, i fell in love with this tv all over again, and crazy thing is i was gonna buy this tv AGAIN even if i had issues with it lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> I ran into this same issue on a 65KS8500. Crap was all over the screen. This is why I'm afraid to even clean my 49KS8000. Not only does the glass scratch easily but I might end up with clouding.


Bro, i am with you on that! i am paranoid to clean it. I hiiiiighly doubt anyone here who has attempted to clean it doesnt have the clouding im talking about. the best way to check is to use a flash light on the area they cleaned(especially with a solution)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I would use no solvent (According to your findings) and have a brand new microfiber or very very soft type of towel.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: I found some I had purchased at autozone that is super soft.


this will sound stupid of me, but what does solvent mean? is that a liquid? also, those microfiber cloths are for cars, is that fine for a tv screen?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> This will sound stupid of me, but what does solvent mean? is that a liquid? also, those microfiber cloths are for cars, is that fine for a tv screen?


Solvent is referring to liquid, yes. The microfiber towels can be used for anything. The fact that they are branded for vehicles means little to nothing. I have shown these towels due to the type of cloth they are, as there really isn't anything coarse about the actual fiber.

Most microfiber are as such. The grain is coarse.



Some microfiber are very very soft, as such. Similar to what some blankets are made out of. That is what I was looking for to use on the tv screen.



TCO


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I would use no solvent (According to your findings) and have a brand new microfiber or very very soft type of towel.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: I found some I had purchased at autozone that is super soft.
> ose


If the screens are that sensitive, I'd be worried about any excess chemicals or dyes that are in those when they are manufactured. I'd also be worried about how those types can easily pickup and hold dirt/tiny particles that can scratch, especially if you don't constantly wash them. I have some of those types and one of them I just had to throw away since it had some metal bits in it that were permanent fixtures after I used it on something I used my Dremel on. I wouldn't have used it on a screen of course, but that's just to give an idea on how well those hold onto things you don't want touching your screen.

For dust, just use a can duster. For smudges, use something like what Samsung packaged with it. Those are microfiber cloths that are designed with things like screen in mind.


----------



## mrtbahgs

I haven't tried to get much further with my broken WiFi issue since I just plugged it in via ethernet and have been using that as a temporary solution until I have some free time to call Samsung.

I definitely need the WiFi to work though as I believe without it you cannot do the casting thing from your phone to the TV so they may have to come replace the board or whatever electrical component controls the WiFi as my likely worst case scenario.

To add to the microfiber discussion, I have read and personally follow the rule to NEVER use fabric softener or detergent with fabric softener in it when washing the towels as it fills the pours. I actually don't even wash it in the washing machine, I just use some Dawn soap in the sink with semi-hot water (you don't want too hot) and then wring it out a bit and let it air dry.

Unless smaller screens didn't include this in their box of accessories, my TV came with a small cloth from Samsung that I assume they have tested to give best results, just dont go adding in Windex or other cleaners. Dry is ideal and also with a screen that has been turned off for awhile, but the next step in my opinion is to breathe on the towel or maybe the screen like you may do to sunglasses and then wipe with the towel. If you end up having some smear peanut butter or something on the screen beyond just a finger print, then you are likely in trouble in terms of keeping it looking flawless.


----------



## Mattchion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> 
> Alrighty then, i am back people! So after about 3 months of fighting with Samsung to repair my freaking screen, its FINALLY been repaired! So the issue that i was having and i am sure noone here will believe me, but i can assure you it was very real! So apparantly, these screens are EXTREMELY sensitive. i had cloud looking forms on my screen and are only vivible in a dark screen or when powered off. And yes, i have tried cleaning with a little bit of water and even a lcd tv cleaner with a microfiber to no avail. How did this happen? Well, ANY given time i would "try" to even do anything to it,it would leave permanent marks on the screen. this is one example, if someone cares to test what i am saying then be my guest. So take you preferred solution to clean the screen, clean a small area, and once done, take a flashlight and shine it to the screen an you will see some weird marks on the screen, and in return, it will stay there permanently and if you look at it using peripheral view, then you will notice the clouding i am referring to.


Yikes. I may need to check mine. But I read the manual. It demands a microfiber cloth with a bit of water sprayed on the cloth if needed as the only option. Maybe a little lcd cleaner if there's something really stubborn. I have well water, but fortunately it's both softened and then for the drinking water portion it's run though a filtration system, so it's about as close to distilled water as you can probably get. I will check for clouding, but i did notice some sloppy streaks like something had flung drops of who knows what on the screen that then nearly streaked all the way to the bottom, when I examined it with a flashlight. I certainly didn't and the tv was in full factory packaging, so I dunno when that happened, but a damp microfiber cloth worked. small streaks of water left from the cloth on each pass dried/evaporated in moments as expected and the screen looks clean and has no new scratches or spots I can see. I was really scared doing it though. as if just holding the cloth to the screen might shatter it.


----------



## Mattchion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I haven't tried to get much further with my broken WiFi issue since I just plugged it in via ethernet and have been using that as a temporary solution until I have some free time to call Samsung.
> 
> I definitely need the WiFi to work though as I believe without it you cannot do the casting thing from your phone to the TV so they may have to come replace the board or whatever electrical component controls the WiFi as my likely worst case scenario.
> 
> To add to the microfiber discussion, I have read and personally follow the rule to NEVER use fabric softener or detergent with fabric softener in it when washing the towels as it fills the pours. I actually don't even wash it in the washing machine, I just use some Dawn soap in the sink with semi-hot water (you don't want too hot) and then wring it out a bit and let it air dry.
> 
> Unless smaller screens didn't include this in their box of accessories, my TV came with a small cloth from Samsung that I assume they have tested to give best results, just dont go adding in Windex or other cleaners. Dry is ideal and also with a screen that has been turned off for awhile, but the next step in my opinion is to breathe on the towel or maybe the screen like you may do to sunglasses and then wipe with the towel. If you end up having some smear peanut butter or something on the screen beyond just a finger print, then you are likely in trouble in terms of keeping it looking flawless.


Manual calls for water sprayed on the microfiber cloth as the only extra if needed. and a tiny bit of screen cleaner for stubborn spots. Breathing on the cloth or screen is likely to introduce stuff that won't come off like streaks of water trailing behind a slightly damp cloth will. And on the wifi, are you kinda far from your router? Because I struggled for weeks with the wifi on my un50ku6300. Anything else on the outer wall of my room still had reception just fine, and it would connect, but couldn't do anything. Turned out it was just too far away for its liking, or so it seems from testing closer to the router before I returned it. Wifi direct should still work with it hooked up to ethernet. If it all goes to the same router casting youtube videos from your phone when it's connected to the wlan from the same router should work too. To test the casting, get the smart screen app, make sure you're on the same network as the tv, and then try connecting to it. If you have a samsung phone there's an icon in the area with the quick buttons for wifi and sound and all the other gadgets, no need to install the app, I think. I installed it anyways later to be safe and just to see if it was different. There's also another easy shortcut to turn your phone into a basic remote for the tv, at least there is for sure if it's a samsung galaxy s6, in my case.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattchion*
> 
> Manual calls for water sprayed on the microfiber cloth as the only extra if needed. and a tiny bit of screen cleaner for stubborn spots. Breathing on the cloth or screen is likely to introduce stuff that won't come off like streaks of water trailing behind a slightly damp cloth will. And on the wifi, are you kinda far from your router? Because I struggled for weeks with the wifi on my un50ku6300. Anything else on the outer wall of my room still had reception just fine, and it would connect, but couldn't do anything. Turned out it was just too far away for its liking, or so it seems from testing closer to the router before I returned it. Wifi direct should still work with it hooked up to ethernet. If it all goes to the same router casting youtube videos from your phone when it's connected to the wlan from the same router should work too. To test the casting, get the smart screen app, make sure you're on the same network as the tv, and then try connecting to it. If you have a samsung phone there's an icon in the area with the quick buttons for wifi and sound and all the other gadgets, no need to install the app, I think. I installed it anyways later to be safe and just to see if it was different. There's also another easy shortcut to turn your phone into a basic remote for the tv, at least there is for sure if it's a samsung galaxy s6, in my case.


Ya my TV is like 10 feet to the right of my router on the same wall.
I had WiFi working fine for like 4 months, but the other week it just up and died.
I have an S6 as well and use the built in cast button, but I am pretty sure it didn't connect the one time I tried since connecting via ethernet.
I'll play around a bit this weekend.


----------



## Mattchion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Ya my TV is like 10 feet to the right of my router on the same wall.
> I had WiFi working fine for like 4 months, but the other week it just up and died.
> I have an S6 as well and use the built in cast button, but I am pretty sure it didn't connect the one time I tried since connecting via ethernet.
> I'll play around a bit this weekend.


Alright. I dunno what to say on the wifi issue. But if it's hooked up to the same router your wifi network is broadcast from, try casting a few more times. It can take a couple tries for me sometimes.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattchion*
> 
> Alright. I dunno what to say on the wifi issue. But if it's hooked up to the same router your wifi network is broadcast from, try casting a few more times. It can take a couple tries for me sometimes.


Well it's good to know that the casting is supposed to still work even if the TV is on a wired connection to the router. If I cannot seem to connect even after a few tries, then it likely is another thing pointing to an electrical problem on the TV.

It is the same router (my only one), I assume it doesn't matter which band or sub-network I am connected to on my phone if the TV is wired, but when it was on WiFi i made sure to use the same network name and it worked fine.

This weekend I will try some things out and possibly make the full jump to a factory reset after writing down all my current settings.
I will likely also do an earlier suggested idea of asking this at the AVS forum.


----------



## Foxrun

Are you guys primarily using the TV as your monitor? Or do you still use a monitor as the primary?


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foxrun*
> 
> Are you guys primarily using the TV as your monitor? Or do you still use a monitor as the primary?


I'm using my tv as my only monitor. I've already sold one and I've put my other one in storage for those "just in case" moments.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Ok,so i have this 49 ks8000 Tv and i love it! I have my PC connected to it using a GTX 1080 EVGA SC, and i noticed when i was playing the ghost recon beta, m tv wasnt outputting HDR and i heard that game(beta), supported HDR, and my TV will not display HDR using my pc. I then connected my ps4 and played the last of us and i saw the icon up top stating hdr is activated. What am i doing wrong here?

for those wondering, i have my Tv connected via Hdmi to the gpu hdmi, and it is connected to the one connect box in port 4!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I played the Beta for Wildlands on PS4 Pro and It automatically switched the HDR Function on. Didn't try it on pc though.

TCO


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I played the Beta for Wildlands on PS4 Pro and It automatically switched the HDR Function on. Didn't try it on pc though.
> 
> TCO


Thats what my settings look like, do i need to tinker with that "ycbr) or whatever its called, and what is 422,444? maybe it has to do with that


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats what my settings look like, do i need to tinker with that "ycbr) or whatever its called, and what is 422,444? maybe it has to do with that


@DADDYDC650 Could probably answer that better than I. Did you read the updated OP yet?

TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

I don't think I update you guys yet, but I tried my wireless connection after a week or so of having it wired due to failure and it just all of a sudden worked again...
That is certainly good news, but I also hope it doesn't mean it may go out again in a few months and if there is a true hardware issue it won't show up just outside the warranty period.

The other thing I wanted to ask is for those that use Netflix, I sometimes forget this bug, but if I click anything besides the main Netflix app icon it doesn't work right. I am saying if I click a user profile name or continue watching a recent show which are sub-menus just above the main Netflix app icon either it will freeze or I lose all control in a show (no pause, rewind, menu, etc). Turning the TV off doesn't help and neither does force closing the app by holding the back button for a few seconds. I think my only solution to this has always been a true power off by unplugging it (or flipping the switch to the surge protector) and then back on which is usually my hard fix for anything.

Obviously the simple solution is to just try and always remember to only click the main app icon, but if this is a widespread bug for others as well, I am wondering why it hasn't been addressed yet. Have any of you had this problem as well?


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I don't think I update you guys yet, but I tried my wireless connection after a week or so of having it wired due to failure and it just all of a sudden worked again...
> That is certainly good news, but I also hope it doesn't mean it may go out again in a few months and if there is a true hardware issue it won't show up just outside the warranty period.
> 
> The other thing I wanted to ask is for those that use Netflix, I sometimes forget this bug, but if I click anything besides the main Netflix app icon it doesn't work right. I am saying if I click a user profile name or continue watching a recent show which are sub-menus just above the main Netflix app icon either it will freeze or I lose all control in a show (no pause, rewind, menu, etc). Turning the TV off doesn't help and neither does force closing the app by holding the back button for a few seconds. I think my only solution to this has always been a true power off by unplugging it (or flipping the switch to the surge protector) and then back on which is usually my hard fix for anything.
> 
> Obviously the simple solution is to just try and always remember to only click the main app icon, but if this is a widespread bug for others as well, I am wondering why it hasn't been addressed yet. Have any of you had this problem as well?


I have that problem too. You can also fix it by turning the tv off by holding the power button down for 5 seconds. That will soft reset the tv and close all the apps. It won't reset any settings. I think closing the app also prevents the bug from happening, there is a menu if you keep hitting the back button that will have a close app option.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> I have that problem too. You can also fix it by turning the tv off by holding the power button down for 5 seconds. That will soft reset the tv and close all the apps. It won't reset any settings. I think closing the app also prevents the bug from happening, there is a menu if you keep hitting the back button that will have a close app option.


Oh yes, thank you, +1 for the great tips there, it prevents me from having to crawl on the floor and try and reach my surge protector switch!
I figured holding the back button did a force close and just didn't help, but haven't tried spamming the back button instead.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> I have that problem too. You can also fix it by *turning the tv off by holding the power button down for 5 seconds. That will soft reset the tv and close all the apps. It won't reset any settings. I think closing the app also prevents the bug from happening, there is a menu if you keep hitting the back button that will have a close app option.*


Added to the OP.










TCO


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Oh yes, thank you, +1 for the great tips there, it prevents me from having to crawl on the floor and try and reach my surge protector switch!
> I figured holding the back button did a force close and just didn't help, but haven't tried spamming the back button instead.


Np. I don't think that holding down the back button actually closes the app. The Netflix app should show its logo when first opening and when using that method it doesn't. I think that just forces you out of the program (like a minimize feature or something).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> [/B]
> 
> Added to the OP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Np. I don't think that holding down the back button actually closes the app. The Netflix app should show its logo when first opening and when using that method it doesn't. I think that just forces you out of the program (like a minimize feature or something).


Take the power cable out and everything closes, fixes almost every annoying bug that exists randomly on this TV.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> [/B]
> 
> Added to the OP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


bro can you help me? i JUST tried an HDR game for the 1st time,i bought RE7 off Steam just to test it and i will refund it afterwards before the 2 hour period. But i notice that on HDR mode my screen goes extremely dim. I then tested this on a ps4 (non pro) with the last of us and same thing happens. My settings are UHD color - On, on all inputs.. Smart LED set to High and colo space set to native..... and on my pc i set my GTX 1080 to RGB with full,8bpc( no other option available for me).

What am i doing wrong? can someone please check with there TV any HDR game and tell me if there screen goes really dim?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> bro can you help me? i JUST tried an HDR game for the 1st time,i bought RE7 off Steam just to test it and i will refund it afterwards before the 2 hour period. But i notice that on HDR mode my screen goes extremely dim. I then tested this on a ps4 (non pro) with the last of us and same thing happens. My settings are UHD color - On, on all inputs.. Smart LED set to High and colo space set to native..... and on my pc i set my GTX 1080 to RGB with full,8bpc( no other option available for me).
> 
> What am i doing wrong? can someone please check with there TV any HDR game and tell me if there screen goes really dim?


It's not that it is DIM, it is that HDR is a true mode for colours. The settings are changed automatically to accomidate the HDR setting when the TV starts getting the HDR signal.

TCO

EDIT:
Quote:


> It can be solved by using Dynamic Contrast - set it to Medium or High according to taste and it brightens the whole image considerably. It seems to work different for SDR and HDR so I set it off when watching normal content and on when watching HDR. Now everything looks great.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Haven't tried an HDR game, but dimming sounds like eco mode is enabled for at least that particular set up. Id check it to be sure it's off.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It's not that it is DIM, it is that HDR is a true mode for colours. The settings are changed automatically to accomidate the HDR setting when the TV starts getting the HDR signal.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT:


I can assure you that i tried this because i was over at a different forum and i saw this same "solution" and it does not work for everyone even with latest firmware updates. I tried this with no success! I even tried to reset to default settings to no avail. The last attempt that i hear was unplugging the power cord completely and still dims the piicture.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Haven't tried an HDR game, but dimming sounds like eco mode is enabled for at least that particular set up. Id check it to be sure it's off.


I tried disabling that already and it STILL dims! I really dont know what to do. Is this a defect that i may need to call samsung about??


----------



## YVWM-47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> I can assure you that i tried this because i was over at a different forum and i saw this same "solution" and it does not work for everyone even with latest firmware updates. I tried this with no success! I even tried to reset to default settings to no avail. The last attempt that i hear was unplugging the power cord completely and still dims the piicture.
> I tried disabling that already and it STILL dims! I really dont know what to do. Is this a defect that i may need to call samsung about??


Is your backlight at 20? im pretty sure backlight needs to be at 20 for HDR to properly work on this TV in game mode, what mode are you in game or movie?


----------



## DADDYDC650

Mass Effect: Andromeda looks great in 4k/HDR. Not sure why this game is being crucified. Sure some of the facial animations could be better but it's very similar to the ME 3 and I was fine with that. A game like Zelda runs at 20/30 fps, has almost no vocal dialogue and crap lip syncing but everyone gives it a perfect score.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Mass Effect: Andromeda looks great in 4k/HDR. Not sure why this game is being crucified. Sure some of the facial animations could be better but it's very similar to the ME 3 and I was fine with that. A game like Zelda runs at 20/30 fps, has almost no vocal dialogue and crap lip syncing but everyone gives it a perfect score.


That's because any type of scoring system for video games is biased (and stupid). The base score of a Zelda game is 9/10 just because it's Zelda. You can't really compare a score from one game to another because they hold different games to different standards. It would be better if they just gave it a buy/don't buy rating.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YVWM-47*
> 
> Is your backlight at 20? im pretty sure backlight needs to be at 20 for HDR to properly work on this TV in game mode, what mode are you in game or movie?


my settings are just as yours and everyone elses.. My backlight is 20, uhd color on for all inputs, color space auto,smart ledbset on high and im in game mode of course, eco sensor is off as well........with thosebsettings its still darkbas heck. Although messingbwithba setting i noticed it gets brighter image if i set dynamic contrast to high


----------



## YVWM-47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> my settings are just as yours and everyone elses.. My backlight is 20, uhd color on for all inputs, color space auto,smart ledbset on high and im in game mode of course, eco sensor is off as well........with thosebsettings its still darkbas heck. Although messingbwithba setting i noticed it gets brighter image if i set dynamic contrast to high


If your settings are the same as in the first post you should be not be having a problem note HDR dimms the screen some on mine but its still plenty bright make sure your ingame HDR slider is all the way up.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> my settings are just as yours and everyone elses.. My backlight is 20, uhd color on for all inputs, color space auto,smart ledbset on high and im in game mode of course, eco sensor is off as well........with thosebsettings its still darkbas heck. Although messingbwithba setting i noticed it gets brighter image if i set dynamic contrast to high


Hmm, I haven't seen any dimming on mine. I use the game mode settings described in the first post. I've toggled back and forth between HDR and no HDR many times while playing "Obduction" and there was no dimming. There was, however, a wider contrast between light and dark. The things that were shaded were darker, but the sun was still the same brightness as it was without HDR. To me, it looked like the the colors were washed out when HDR was turned off.


----------



## Roxborough

Has anyone tried this yet:

https://www.blurbusters.com/overclock/120hz-pc-to-tv/

I am going to attempt it tonight. Hopefully will not run into any issues.


----------



## mrtbahgs

I dont remember if I have asked this before, but it popped in my head randomly.

Does your TV work fine regarding the time setting and having Auto daylight savings time?

I know mine doesn't work right even though it is set to CST which I am in and I find it odd that it could be just me with the problem. It maybe worked for a bit, but eventually I had to force it to say whether it was in effect or not so that my TV guide is running for the correct time.

I suppose the one slight difference here is that I am running OTA TV so maybe some of you with a cable box or dish has some signal that updates the time and my issue needs to be apples to apples with other OTA viewers.


----------



## Lao Tzu

Hi, i have a UN49KS8500, someone use the 1168v frimware?, im on the 1167v just fine 0 problems.


----------



## YVWM-47

Hey does anyone know how to turn off the stupid samsung "extra" popup that appears in the upper right corner of the display? usually appears while watching cable TV.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lao Tzu*
> 
> Hi, i have a UN49KS8500, someone use the 1168v frimware?, im on the 1167v just fine 0 problems.


No problems with 1168.

On a side note, I now run 4k/60Hz, YCbCr420 with 12 bpc. TV stays in Game Mode so no issues with HDR titles like Mass Effect Andromeda. Text looks fine when browsing the net after zooming in to about 120 percent and higher.


----------



## Superplush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> No problems with 1168.
> 
> On a side note, I now run 4k/60Hz, YCbCr420 with 12 bpc. TV stays in Game Mode so no issues with HDR titles like Mass Effect Andromeda. Text looks fine when browsing the net after zooming in to about 120 percent and higher.


Nicely done!
Running the 42" here on a single RX480, everytime I take screenshots of ME:A they look so washed out. I guess this is the price we pay for all the tech on the monitor side ?


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Superplush*
> 
> Nicely done!
> Running the 42" here on a single RX480, everytime I take screenshots of ME:A they look so washed out. I guess this is the price we pay for all the tech on the monitor side ?


Why is your image washed out?


----------



## Superplush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Why is your image washed out?


I always thought it was because the screenshot displayed the input from the PC to the monitor, if the monitor has all the newfangled HDR and brightness settings then the screenshot wouldn't show any of the settings? Probably me getting it wrong. Here is a screeny .. I'll try to get better ones in afew hours but I can say that my Andromeda, on the actual screen, doesn't look anywhere near this colour:



and yeah, they still have wheelie bins in the 29th century !









One thing that does sadden me, the new Radeon control centre doesn't appear to have the saturation to add vibrancy to scenes. Looking around the 'net I think they took it out a release or two ago.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Superplush*
> 
> I always thought it was because the screenshot displayed the input from the PC to the monitor, if the monitor has all the newfangled HDR and brightness settings then the screenshot wouldn't show any of the settings? Probably me getting it wrong. Here is a screeny .. I'll try to get better ones in afew hours but I can say that my Andromeda, on the actual screen, doesn't look anywhere near this colour:
> 
> 
> 
> and yeah, they still have wheelie bins in the 29th century !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing that does sadden me, the new Radeon control centre doesn't appear to have the saturation to add vibrancy to scenes. Looking around the 'net I think they took it out a release or two ago.


What phone are you using to take pics with or are you prnt screening? Here are some of mine using an iPhone 7+.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> What phone are you using to take pics with or are you prnt screening? Here are some of mine using an iPhone 7+.


Is that the Switch or CEMU PC version of Zelda?

How're you liking it?

I had a quick go of my friends switch, and I could not stand the controller. Felt horrible. Zelda looked incredible though, I really wanted to bury myself in the world, but as it wasn't mine I felt like I couldn't enjoy it as much; as such it did not make a good first impression I must admit, I didn't feel like running out and buying one like I thought I would. It looked amazing on my TV though and seem to run really really smoothly, the only visual aspect that seemed to let it down was the lack of AA. Jaggies everywhere!


----------



## Superplush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> What phone are you using to take pics with or are you prnt screening? Here are some of mine using an iPhone 7+.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's me using MSI Afterburner to take screenshots, film looks the same way.

Got two for your now:

MSI Afterburner, Screenshot:



Galaxy S7Edge, Camera Picture:



Btw I'm using a UE43KS7500 screen.

As you can see, screenshots ( and video ) look all washed out but the screen looks really vibrant.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Is that the Switch or CEMU PC version of Zelda?
> 
> How're you liking it?
> 
> I had a quick go of my friends switch, and I could not stand the controller. Felt horrible. Zelda looked incredible though, I really wanted to bury myself in the world, but as it wasn't mine I felt like I couldn't enjoy it as much; as such it did not make a good first impression I must admit, I didn't feel like running out and buying one like I thought I would. It looked amazing on my TV though and seem to run really really smoothly, the only visual aspect that seemed to let it down was the lack of AA. Jaggies everywhere!


That's why I like PC gaming. Usually when I play a game in 4k resolution the first thing that goes is AA. Consoles on the other hand can't handle AA that well but can't have resolutions high enough to not need it


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Is that the Switch or CEMU PC version of Zelda?
> 
> How're you liking it?
> 
> I had a quick go of my friends switch, and I could not stand the controller. Felt horrible. Zelda looked incredible though, I really wanted to bury myself in the world, but as it wasn't mine I felt like I couldn't enjoy it as much; as such it did not make a good first impression I must admit, I didn't feel like running out and buying one like I thought I would. It looked amazing on my TV though and seem to run really really smoothly, the only visual aspect that seemed to let it down was the lack of AA. Jaggies everywhere!


It's the Cemu version running at 4K. Using an Xbox One controller. Game is amazing. Image isn't as sharp in these pictures because of compression and the device used to take the pics.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Superplush*
> 
> That's me using MSI Afterburner to take screenshots, film looks the same way.
> 
> Got two for your now:
> 
> MSI Afterburner, Screenshot:
> 
> 
> 
> Galaxy S7Edge, Camera Picture:
> 
> 
> 
> Btw I'm using a UE43KS7500 screen.
> 
> As you can see, screenshots ( and video ) look all washed out but the screen looks really vibrant.
> That's why I like PC gaming. Usually when I play a game in 4k resolution the first thing that goes is AA. Consoles on the other hand can't handle AA that well but can't have resolutions high enough to not need it


Try taking screenshots using print screen or Origin.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> It's the Cemu version running at 4K. Using an Xbox One controller. Game is amazing. Image isn't as sharp in these pictures because of compression and the device used to take the pics.


How are the bugs within Cemu? I wanted to try it this evening.

Do you have version 1.7.3? I heard 1.7.4 was out and solved a lot of the performance issues.

I have found the download for BotW, but not sure which is the best version, can you advise?


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> How are the bugs within Cemu? I wanted to try it this evening.
> 
> Do you have version 1.7.3? I heard 1.7.4 was out and solved a lot of the performance issues.
> 
> I have found the download for BotW, but not sure which is the best version, can you advise?


I'm running Zelda version 1.11 and Cemu version 1.74c. Game runs pretty much like the Switch version with a few hitches here and there after applying the 4K graphics patch and some recommended fixes. Looks way better that's for sure. 900p resolution is garbage! Switch might eventually have great games but the hardware is cheap crap.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> I'm running Zelda version 1.11 and Cemu version 1.74c. Game runs pretty much like the Switch version with a few hitches here and there after applying the 4K graphics patch and some recommended fixes. Looks way better that's for sure. 900p resolution is garbage! Switch might eventually have great games but the hardware is cheap crap.


Where did you get 1.74c from, I can't find it? If you could PM me some links... that would be greatly appreciated! Maybe the 4k graphics patch too 0.o


----------



## Roxborough

I have BoTW V 1.1.0, it doesn't run very well on CEMU 1.74c... well it doesn't run AT ALL! Just crashes instantly. Where the heck did you get V 1.11 from?


----------



## shhek0

Guys, is there any 40" or 43" alternative to this TV in the Samsung lineup? Or at least what comes the closest.


----------



## Jedi Mind Trick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shhek0*
> 
> Guys, is there any 40" or 43" alternative to this TV in the Samsung lineup? Or at least what comes the closest.


I know the mu series isn't much better (actually pretty sure it's slightly worse), but I believe there should be reviews for some 40/43" screens. Iirc their starting price is ~$550 for the mu6300 and $700 for the mu7000 [both of which are replacements for the ku63/7000 series, neither of which came close to the ks8000].

Seems like the sony x800d is still the best small 4k tv to get (though it is lacking brightness and local dimming), assuming that the mu6300/7000 still have judder with 24p content. The 800e seems lackluster due to Sony using an IPS panel this time around.


----------



## DADDYDC650

Guess I don't have to worry about the 2017 version of my KS8000 being better. I'll be looking to upgrade in 2018/2019.

*Samsung MU8000 LED TV vs Samsung KS8000 LED TV*

The 2016 KS8000 performs better than the MU8000 overall.

The KS8000 has a higher native contrast ratio for dark scenes
The KS8000 gets significantly brighter for HDR and SDR
The KS8000 has a wider color gamut, and can display a larger color volume
The KS8000 is better at handling reflections
The MU8000 has better motion handling due to the faster response time

If you can find it, the KS8000 performs better and is available at a lower price.


----------



## shhek0

I have exactly 109cm of space for the TV. The KS8000 is rated at 109,4cm. Okay with a little maybe it would be just fine. Now however the TV is not existing in my country.. I dont want to go Sony and Android but maybe I would be forced. Now all the drama with the different model number(US-> UE -> Easter Europe then







etc.)

My 1080p TV died and it is not worth the repair. I really wanted that KS8000 and to pair it later on with a Scorpio with some couch gaming from time to time. I should have pulled the trigger on the that deal lol

Thanks guys!

Edit: God damn this naming scheme. Found UE-49KS8002, should be the same thing.


----------



## manight

Hallo, I'm considering buying the UNKS8000 (EUKS7000 here in Europe) since I found it at a very reasonable price. I need some advice from current owner since my primary (99%) use will be as a computer monitor 49" for programming, as audio workstation, video editing and a bit of gaming and I'm a bit concerned mostly about the pwm flicker "issue" I read in some reviews and the associated motion blur, considering in game and pc mode filters cannot be enabled. Alternative would be Sony XE900 which is available at almost twice the price.... so it's not an easy choice.

Thanks in advance for your help.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manight*
> 
> Hallo, I'm considering buying the UNKS8000 (EUKS7000 here in Europe) since I found it at a very reasonable price. I need some advice from current owner since my primary (99%) use will be as a computer monitor 49" for programming, as audio workstation, video editing and a bit of gaming and I'm a bit concerned mostly about the pwm flicker "issue" I read in some reviews and the associated motion blur, considering in game and pc mode filters cannot be enabled. Alternative would be Sony XE900 which is available at almost twice the price.... so it's not an easy choice.
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help.


I've seen no reports of flicker here, and there are quite a few owners of the 49" that use it as a monitor.









TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manight*
> 
> Hallo, I'm considering buying the UNKS8000 (EUKS7000 here in Europe) since I found it at a very reasonable price. I need some advice from current owner since my primary (99%) use will be as a computer monitor 49" for programming, as audio workstation, video editing and a bit of gaming and I'm a bit concerned mostly about the pwm flicker "issue" I read in some reviews and the associated motion blur, considering in game and pc mode filters cannot be enabled. Alternative would be Sony XE900 which is available at almost twice the price.... so it's not an easy choice.
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help.


Not sure about the flicker since I don't have any issues with it. I guess some people are more sensitive to it? As for motion blur, it's a 60Hz VA panel so there's some blur with fast motion gaming but I rarely notice it these days.


----------



## shhek0

@manight, I just want to say Thank you! Indeed the KS7000 is like the KS8000 in US, which explains why I was not fond of the price of the KS8000 in Europe(which would be the 9 Series). You saved me some money


----------



## Roxborough

Greetings all, again,

I've recently down-graded my rig because I do not spend enough time on it to warrant having a £2k rig.

Went from an i7 7700k + 1080ti etc... down to my sig rig.

Now, I've just replaced the GTX 680 4gb with an MSI R9 390X I found very cheap on gumtree for £120.

My main gripe with this card is it doesn't support 4k 60hz through the HDMI. Only 30hz. I'm not exactly banking on being able to get above 30fps in games at 4k with this card (unless I drop the settings a whole bunch), but I would like a 60hz desktop experience, to which, it is awful at 30hz. I'm limited to 1080p @60hz.

Does anyone know of a cost effective way to achieve 60hz on this card/UE55KS7000 combo without an expensive adapter from DP to HDMI?

As always any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## Jedi Mind Trick

Pretty sure the $20/30 (USD, based on Amazon) adapters are your only option to get 4k60 from a 390x on an HDMI display.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedi Mind Trick*
> 
> Pretty sure the $20/30 (USD, based on Amazon) adapters are your only option to get 4k60 from a 390x on an HDMI display.


Yeah there's an adapter for £25 on Scan.co.uk. Which I am visiting this weekend. But I tried to do this PC on a budget, and adding another £25 plus about £10 in petrol to get there and back lol ... So this is kind of a big deal as I chose the R9 390X for £120 over a GTX 980 for £170, and at this rate, I'll be at £156, and it is just creeping up to that price anyway. Was just wondering if anyone figured out another way of doing it on the cheap...

I might consider selling the R9 390X as they have shot up in price since the mining boom. I would consider a GTX 980ti if I sold it for the right price.

Thoughts?


----------



## shhek0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Yeah there's an adapter for £25 on Scan.co.uk. Which I am visiting this weekend. But I tried to do this PC on a budget, and adding another £25 plus about £10 in petrol to get there and back lol ... So this is kind of a big deal as I chose the R9 390X for £120 over a GTX 980 for £170, and at this rate, I'll be at £156, and it is just creeping up to that price anyway. Was just wondering if anyone figured out another way of doing it on the cheap...
> 
> I might consider selling the R9 390X as they have shot up in price since the mining boom. I would consider a GTX 980ti if I sold it for the right price.
> 
> Thoughts?


I was going to propose the same thing. If you can get a good price for the card I think it is worth it more than adapter. In my country such adapter is even more expensive and I am just going to sell the 770 and with lesser than the adopter I would upgrade to 970 with the current prices. Ridiculous.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shhek0*
> 
> I was going to propose the same thing. If you can get a good price for the card I think it is worth it more than adapter. In my country such adapter is even more expensive and I am just going to sell the 770 and with lesser than the adopter I would upgrade to 970 with the current prices. Ridiculous.


I guess I covered all my own bases. Thanks for the input, at least I know I was onto something haha!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Just wanted to update you guys on cleaning the TV.

I actually hadn't cleaned it since I purchased the TV especially after all of the discussions we had about solvents used on screens and whatnot. So the other night while watching some shows with the woman I noticed a couple spots that weren't allowing light to be shown correctly and got closer to the screen. Realizing how dirty it was, I told myself "If I have a new microfiber cloth, I will try to clean the screen dry" and sure enough, found one in the truck.

I just used the microfiber and my hand and was able to dust the entire screen, and just used the cloth to remove some dirty things that were on the screen without solvent, being careful not to apply to much pressure also.

Came out great. Screen looks like it did on Day 1.









I was very pleased.

TCO

EDIT: Just like I had posted before, I used these.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just wanted to update you guys on cleaning the TV.
> 
> I actually hadn't cleaned it since I purchased the TV especially after all of the discussions we had about solvents used on screens and whatnot. So the other night while watching some shows with the woman I noticed a couple spots that weren't allowing light to be shown correctly and got closer to the screen. Realizing how dirty it was, I told myself "If I have a new microfiber cloth, I will try to clean the screen dry" and sure enough, found one in the truck.
> 
> I just used the microfiber and my hand and was able to dust the entire screen, and just used the cloth to remove some dirty things that were on the screen without solvent, being careful not to apply to much pressure also.
> 
> Came out great. Screen looks like it did on Day 1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was very pleased.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Just like I had posted before, I used these.


Thanks for the update TCO.

No matter what I do, I cannot get my Cat-Paw prints off this screen fully. I've only ever used microfiber cloths, no solvent. Just won't shift. The residue leftover from their paws must be so fine it has filled the microgaps on the surface.

One day, just out of pure habit, I touched a brand new microfiber cloth with a small amount of saliva and applied it to the paw marks... it made them 10x worse. DO NOT DO THIS. Word of warning lol.

Tempted to try this after a few hours of research on chemicals and the materials on the KS7000 screen. Turns out this stuff fits the bill.

I have another update of my own too.

After just over 8 months use now. The speakers on this TV have started to buzz at high volume. I'm quite annoyed at this as the main reason I replaced my older Samsung TV was due to the Speakers buzzing... and it is happening again.

-_-!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Thanks for the update TCO.
> 
> No matter what I do, I cannot get my Cat-Paw prints off this screen fully. I've only ever used microfiber cloths, no solvent. Just won't shift. The residue leftover from their paws must be so fine it has filled the microgaps on the surface.
> 
> One day, just out of pure habit, I touched a brand new microfiber cloth with a small amount of saliva and applied it to the paw marks... it made them 10x worse. DO NOT DO THIS. Word of warning lol.
> 
> Tempted to try this after a few hours of research on chemicals and the materials on the KS7000 screen. Turns out this stuff fits the bill.
> 
> I have another update of my own too.
> 
> After just over 8 months use now. The speakers on this TV have started to buzz at high volume. I'm quite annoyed at this as the main reason I replaced my older Samsung TV was due to the Speakers buzzing... and it is happening again.
> 
> -_-!


I think @Dry Bonez Was able to get their screen redone after marks and things happened to it. If you make a warranty claim through Samsung (Which you still should be under full warranty) then they could replace the speakers and or unit you own?

TCO


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I think @Dry Bonez Was able to get their screen redone after marks and things happened to it. If you make a warranty claim through Samsung (Which you still should be under full warranty) then they could replace the speakers and or unit you own?
> 
> TCO


Well at the moment, the buzzing issues appears to be intermittent. It depends on the content I think. If I run a flak file high quality sound through my PC on the TV... it buzzes. So at least I can recreate it for proof.

I have 6 years warranty through a company called Richer Sounds in the UK, they are pretty decent when it comes to returning/warranty based things. They'll just replace mine for a new one and deal with the warranty for me.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxborough*
> 
> Well at the moment, the buzzing issues appears to be intermittent. It depends on the content I think. If I run a flak file high quality sound through my PC on the TV... it buzzes. So at least I can recreate it for proof.
> 
> I have 6 years warranty through a company called Richer Sounds in the UK, they are pretty decent when it comes to returning/warranty based things. They'll just replace mine for a new one and deal with the warranty for me.


If this was mine, it would have already been sent off.

TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

Anyone have issues with their remote not working, like the red light doesn't even light up when pressing a button?
I've had it maybe... 8 times now since I bought the TV and every time it is a super simple fix of just pulling one battery out and putting it back in, but I still wonder if I should be asking Samsung about it and get a replacement remote before the warranty expires in case a year or two down the road it quits for good.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Anyone have issues with their remote not working, like the red light doesn't even light up when pressing a button?
> I've had it maybe... 8 times now since I bought the TV and every time it is a super simple fix of just pulling one battery out and putting it back in, but I still wonder if I should be asking Samsung about it and get a replacement remote before the warranty expires in case a year or two down the road it quits for good.


Never had any probs with the remote.

TCO


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Just wanted to update you guys on cleaning the TV.
> 
> I actually hadn't cleaned it since I purchased the TV especially after all of the discussions we had about solvents used on screens and whatnot. So the other night while watching some shows with the woman I noticed a couple spots that weren't allowing light to be shown correctly and got closer to the screen. Realizing how dirty it was, I told myself "If I have a new microfiber cloth, I will try to clean the screen dry" and sure enough, found one in the truck.
> 
> I just used the microfiber and my hand and was able to dust the entire screen, and just used the cloth to remove some dirty things that were on the screen without solvent, being careful not to apply to much pressure also.
> 
> Came out great. Screen looks like it did on Day 1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was very pleased.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: Just like I had posted before, I used these.


Just make sure to wash them regularly. That type of microfiber cloths is great at grabbing into dirt/dust particles and holding onto it. You don't want to accidently put scratches on your screen. Usually, you'd want to use the fine microfiber cloths. I got a pack of these from Amazon.


----------



## mrtbahgs

Since you brought up washing, I will add:

Do not use fabric softener
Do not use detergent with fabric softener or additives
Do not wash with high heat
Do not dry with high heat. (Ideally maybe a short low dry then set out to air dry)
Additives and fabric softener will fill in and make the "hooks" in the fibers less powerful.
High heat also messes with things.

I only have a few that I use for the car and I actually just wash by hand in the sink with basic Dawn dish washing liquid and let air dry on the shower curtain rod.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> Anyone have issues with their remote not working, like the red light doesn't even light up when pressing a button?
> I've had it maybe... 8 times now since I bought the TV and every time it is a super simple fix of just pulling one battery out and putting it back in, but I still wonder if I should be asking Samsung about it and get a replacement remote before the warranty expires in case a year or two down the road it quits for good.


I've had this exact issue. Only happened once though. Taking the batteries out and putting them back in the other way around fixed it. I presumed it was just battery placement. If the remote gets dropped the impact probably causes the contact of the battery to short; the PCB in the remote might have something akin to an RCD so when it notices odd patterns of voltage/miliamp spike like a battery rubbing against the contacts at a certain frequency, it shuts off to protect the remote and needs a hard reset.


----------



## carsar1

has anybody noticed the strange lag measurements in this review http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ks8500 ?
ks8500 420 4K 60hz =19ms
ks8500 444 4K 60hz =33.5ms lag.

is this misprint(39 instead 33) or ks8500 really has got better 4k 444 lag than KS8000?


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carsar1*
> 
> has anybody noticed the strange lag measurements in this review http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ks8500 ?
> ks8500 420 4K 60hz =19ms
> ks8500 444 4K 60hz =33.5ms lag.
> 
> is this misprint(39 instead 33) or ks8500 really has got better 4k 444 lag than KS8000?


Probably a misprint. Displaylag.com has the KS8000 at about 20ms as well.

https://displaylag.com/best-low-input-lag-tvs-gaming-by-gamers/


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Probably a misprint. Displaylag.com has the KS8000 at about 20ms as well.
> 
> https://displaylag.com/best-low-input-lag-tvs-gaming-by-gamers/


Nice catch

TCO


----------



## Inelastic

Has anyone tried Destiny 2? It's in open beta and has HDR. It works great in 1080p and 4k, but HDR doesn't stream at 1440p, the tv doesn't show HDR and the colors are wrong. I can run it at 4kn on my setup and it looks amazing with HDR.


----------



## Roxborough

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Has anyone tried Destiny 2? It's in open beta and has HDR. It works great in 1080p and 4k, but HDR doesn't stream at 1440p, the tv doesn't show HDR and the colors are wrong. I can run it at 4kn on my setup and it looks amazing with HDR.


No but now that you mention it I am seriously tempted.

Got a bogus 980ti used, DOA.







Got to wait for a replacement. OH THE PAIN.


----------



## Ragsters

Yesterday I noticed that my 65" KS8000 has Steam Link software. Has anyone used it yet? How does it compare to buying the hardware?


----------



## carsar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Probably a misprint. Displaylag.com has the KS8000 at about 20ms as well.
> 
> https://displaylag.com/best-low-input-lag-tvs-gaming-by-gamers/


so i have connected to rtings via email and their position is "non a misprint. ks8500 has lowest 444 4k lag(33ms)"
if that is true -ks8500 is a realy nice choice for monitor usage. no need to swith game mode/pc mode except online gaming


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carsar1*
> 
> so i have connected to rtings via email and their position is "non a misprint. ks8500 has lowest 444 4k lag(33ms)"
> if that is true -ks8500 is a realy nice choice for monitor usage. no need to swith game mode/pc mode except online gaming


There is little to no difference between the 8000 and 8500 other than one is curved and one is not.


----------



## carsar1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> There is little to no difference between the 8000 and 8500 other than one is curved and one is not.


Nope. tthere are some difference in response time(18 vs 16), lag(37 vs 33) between ks8000 and 8500
that's not my opinion. just rtings reviews. you can check it youself and find other differences,
For me the 33 lag was important , cuz i chose 20 ms lag instead 37ms, but i can be tolerant with 33ms lag)


----------



## DADDYDC650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carsar1*
> 
> Nope. tthere are some difference in response time(18 vs 16), lag(37 vs 33) between ks8000 and 8500
> that's not my opinion. just rtings reviews. you can check it youself and find other differences,
> For me the 33 lag was important , cuz i chose 20 ms lag instead 37ms, but i can be tolerant with 33ms lag)


Like I said, the displays are pretty much identical. You are talking about a 2-3ms difference at most. If there really is a difference at all.....


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carsar1*
> 
> Nope. tthere are some difference in response time(18 vs 16), lag(37 vs 33) between ks8000 and 8500
> that's not my opinion. just rtings reviews. you can check it youself and find other differences,
> For me the 33 lag was important , cuz i chose 20 ms lag instead 37ms, but i can be tolerant with 33ms lag)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> Like I said, the displays are pretty much identical. You are talking about a 2-3ms difference at most. If there really is a difference at all.....


Here they are side by Side. KS8000 is on the Left.



The Differences are minimal, yes, but there is a difference.

Price difference is about 100-200 more for a "Used" 55" KS8500

TCO


----------



## DADDYDC650

A 2-3ms difference according to the models they used. Nobody would be able to tell the difference. You would basically pay $200+ for a slightly curved display.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> A 2-3ms difference according to the models they used. Nobody would be able to tell the difference. You would basically pay $200+ for a slightly curved display.


I agree. If it was 10-15 then I would entertain the thought.

TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Little Readout for the MU8000 Model of the new Sammy.



Review of the newer Tv HERE

TCO


----------



## mrtbahgs

I haven't looked into the 2017 or upcoming 2018 models at all, but I can say that the invisible connection cord is a pretty sweat idea that I wish we could get on our KS8000s.
I saw it in a commercial or something so that's the gist of my new product knowledge.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Hey everyone. its been a wile since ive been here but i jut wanna say my 49in is still going strong,i love it! I have not cleaned my screen ever since i had that issue where it would leave permanent marks on the screen. I am still on firmware 1168 and honestly, i have no issues. Whats everyone input on the latest 1203? I heard its good but i dislike how they removed the notification of HDR is now playing. Which brings me to HDR, HDR is awesome but for the love of money, HDR on PC is absolute utter TRASH!!!! I have a ps4 and its sooooo easy to setup in the settings and it enables automatically when detected. Thats not the case on PC, i have a GTX 1080ti and i dont understand 1 single bit of this RGB full or limited or the YGBR or whatever its called. Thats just straight up bogus and i hate configuring HDR on pc.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey everyone. its been a wile since ive been here but i jut wanna say my 49in is still going strong,i love it! I have not cleaned my screen ever since i had that issue where it would leave permanent marks on the screen. I am still on firmware 1168 and honestly, i have no issues. Whats everyone input on the latest 1203? I heard its good but i dislike how they removed the notification of HDR is now playing. Which brings me to HDR, HDR is awesome but for the love of money, HDR on PC is absolute utter TRASH!!!! I have a ps4 and its sooooo easy to setup in the settings and it enables automatically when detected. Thats not the case on PC, i have a GTX 1080ti and i dont understand 1 single bit of this RGB full or limited or the YGBR or whatever its called. Thats just straight up bogus and i hate configuring HDR on pc.


Microsoft is trying to standardize it. There's now a HDR button to use to switch it on so you don't have to fiddle with anything , which uses the 4:2:2 scheme. There are issues with it, but the next update coming in October is suppose to fix it, maybe we'll be able to leave it on all the time? The problem is that older HDR games that haven't been updated will still have issues. Destiny 2 works well and looks amazing. Just toggle the HDR button and turn HDR on in game and it works. I assume the ps4 uses a single setting and locks it so you don't have to deal with it.

I clean my screen dry usually to get the dust off. I used to use a second cloth with a dab of water to clean stuck on things, but I got those discolorations last time I did it. It never happened before. I'm wondering if it was because I didn't let the tv cool down and just did it right after I turned it off. I'm too nervous to test that theory lol.

I'm on the latest firmware and have no issues other than Hulu being garbage.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Microsoft is trying to standardize it. There's now a HDR button to use to switch it on so you don't have to fiddle with anything , which uses the 4:2:2 scheme. There are issues with it, but the next update coming in October is suppose to fix it, maybe we'll be able to leave it on all the time? The problem is that older HDR games that haven't been updated will still have issues. Destiny 2 works well and looks amazing. *Just toggle the HDR button and turn HDR on in game and it works*. I assume the ps4 uses a single setting and locks it so you don't have to deal with it.
> 
> I clean my screen dry usually to get the dust off. I used to use a second cloth with a dab of water to clean stuck on things, but I got those discolorations last time I did it. It never happened before. I'm wondering if it was because I didn't let the tv cool down and just did it right after I turned it off. I'm too nervous to test that theory lol.
> 
> I'm on the latest firmware and have no issues other than Hulu being garbage.












Are you referring to HDR Mode? That is Faux HDR, not true HDR.

The Tv will notify you when an HDR Signal is detected for example, Starting the Netflix app (From the PS4 Pro anyway) makes the tv drop down the HDR notification.

TCO

EDIT: And I have been playing Destiny 2 for the past couple weeks, there is no indication that is in true HDR.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you referring to HDR Mode? That is Faux HDR, not true HDR.
> 
> The Tv will notify you when an HDR Signal is detected for example, Starting the Netflix app (From the PS4 Pro anyway) makes the tv drop down the HDR notification.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: And I have been playing Destiny 2 for the past couple weeks, there is no indication that is in true HDR.


You mean like this?


Are you on the latest firmware? The tv no longer notifies you of HDR. You have to bring up the upper info bar to see. Destiny 2 is in HDR.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> You mean like this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you on the latest firmware? The tv no longer notifies you of HDR. You have to bring up the upper info bar to see. *Destiny 2 is in HDR*.


That's quite interesting. I don't have my tv connected to the internet via cable nor wifi since I have everything running off of the ps4. I haven't updated to the latest yet. Good call as I still have the old firmware that notifies me.

What version do you feel is better?

TCO

EDIT: And I still disagree with that statement about Destiny having HDR. It was due post launch. I have yet to see an update about HDR support.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That's quite interesting. I don't have my tv connected to the internet via cable nor wifi since I have everything running off of the ps4. I haven't updated to the latest yet. Good call as I still have the old firmware that notifies me.
> 
> What version do you feel is better?
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: And I still disagree with that statement about Destiny having HDR. It was due post launch. I have yet to see an update about HDR support.


I'm talking PC.

https://www.gamespot.com/articles/destiny-2-on-pc-supports-multi-gpu-setups-and-hdr-/1100-6452718/

It was defiantly outputting HDR when I was playing the beta.

I think this firmware is good. I haven't noticed any issues at all. But, then again I'm not one to go fiddling with the settings. Most of the time I'm just using it as a monitor and doing research or watching stuff. But, from what I've seen on the Internet, people really like this version.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> I'm talking PC.
> 
> https://www.gamespot.com/articles/destiny-2-on-pc-supports-multi-gpu-setups-and-hdr-/1100-6452718/
> 
> It was defiantly outputting HDR when I was playing the beta.
> 
> I think this firmware is good. I haven't noticed any issues at all. But, then again I'm not one to go fiddling with the settings. Most of the time I'm just using it as a monitor and doing research or watching stuff. But, from what I've seen on the Internet, people really like this version.


Yea PC will have it. Now we are on the same page. I have in on PS4.

TCO


----------



## TheCautiousOne

So my brother asked me to help him look for a 4k Monitor for the new house. He was currently using a Sony X830C Bravia for his Tv and Computer Monitor in the old house.

Here is a quick snap of the Input lag on the 830C



I suggested for the price of a 32" 4k Monitor, that he could either wait for the new 4k Monitors to come out with 120hz refresh rate, and or get a nice 4k Tv for a great price with HDR etc.

My Suggestion was the Sammy MU8000. I saw a deal or two on amazon for the MU8000 reboxed for 697.00 for a 49".

Here is a quick snap of the MU8000 Input lag specs.



His reply was "If I am going to get a 4k Tv in lue of a monitor, I want the lowest input lag for gaming" . I said no problem. I own the KS8000 and I think the newer model from Samsung is the MU8000 which should have fantastic numbers for gaming at 4k, either from a playstation or when you Play in 4:4:4 at 4k 60hz from a computer.

Told him about Rtings.com and suggested he check around to see what he likes and or what Tv he was thinking of.

So. He calls me last night and said he purchased the Sony X900E









Quick snap of the Input Lag.












Said he bought it because it was "Best in Class for HDR"

Yall have a good Day









TCO


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## Jedi Mind Trick

Aside from OLEDs, the X900E (and the X930E) are possibly some of the best 4K TVs overall (especially for HDR content). Sure the input lag is worse, but 35ms really isn't that bad (compared to ~20ms). The one to get really should have been the TLC P607 if gaming was all that mattered.

I personally think he made the correct choice, and if the input lag really bothers him he can enable 1080p120hz for 17ms input lag.


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## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedi Mind Trick*
> 
> Aside from OLEDs, the X900E (and the X930E) are possibly some of the best 4K TVs overall (especially for HDR content). Sure the input lag is worse, but 35ms really isn't that bad (compared to ~20ms). The one to get really should have been the TLC P607 if gaming was all that mattered.
> 
> I personally think he made the correct choice, and if the input lag really bothers him he can enable 1080p120hz for 17ms input lag.


These are good outlooks. The TLC has exceptional input lag. Didn't realize it was at



TCO


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## GoLDii3

This TV is such a damn mess,i regret buying it so much. Panel died just three months after i purchased it,great,they changed it too bad they did not fix another big issue,the blackscreen problems. It's mind boggling,i just had to change my graphics card,tried to plug it in and nothing but black screens after black screens,yet it worked fine with the old GPU.

I have two Samsung 4K TV's and both of them do the same crap. It's clear it's some kind of issue on their side because the GPU works just fine over HDMI and DP on my monitor. Oh and lets not forget how it also works fine with the iGPU. The web is full of people having black screens with stuff like PS4 Pro's,i don't know what they screwed so hard. Never buying Samsung again.


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## mrtbahgs

I assume it started since the last update, but does anyone else have issues with the Hulu app no longer popping up with new episodes for shows you watch?

I think they are all added to my watch list or at least I know 100% that they used to show up on that section of the home page. Typically every time a new episode is available it would say like "1 New Episode" or whatever the normal text is and once watched I forget if it either disappears until next week or minimally the text goes away and it stays on the long scrolled list.

Now my shows aren't showing up or returning to that watch list and I have to search them by name in the box, enter the show page, and scroll to the end to find that there is indeed a new episode I haven't seen yet.
This has happened to 4 or so shows this past week.

My watch list from the home page does still show a few shows, including a few I have like 18 episodes to watch since it's multiple seasons, but the most important ones being the current live seasons that I want to keep up with are not as easy to watch since I have to remember to search for them and see what day the episode is available.

Again, anyone else experiencing the same?


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## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtbahgs*
> 
> I assume it started since the last update, but does anyone else have issues with the Hulu app no longer popping up with new episodes for shows you watch?
> 
> I think they are all added to my watch list or at least I know 100% that they used to show up on that section of the home page. Typically every time a new episode is available it would say like "1 New Episode" or whatever the normal text is and once watched I forget if it either disappears until next week or minimally the text goes away and it stays on the long scrolled list.
> 
> Now my shows aren't showing up or returning to that watch list and I have to search them by name in the box, enter the show page, and scroll to the end to find that there is indeed a new episode I haven't seen yet.
> This has happened to 4 or so shows this past week.
> 
> My watch list from the home page does still show a few shows, including a few I have like 18 episodes to watch since it's multiple seasons, but the most important ones being the current live seasons that I want to keep up with are not as easy to watch since I have to remember to search for them and see what day the episode is available.
> 
> Again, anyone else experiencing the same?


I wish I used Hulu. I am not familiar.

TCO


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## mrtbahgs

Hopefully it was a one week fluke or i fixed it by searching and watching the missed shows manually, but last night a whole bunch popped back up there like they should be.


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## Lao Tzu

There is a new firmware v1208.0 for un49ks8500, someone´s try it=?


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## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lao Tzu*
> 
> There is a new firmware v1208.0 for un49ks8500, someone´s try it=?


When was it released?

TCO


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## dainfamous

Do any owner's experience issues with hdmi arc on your tv sets?

I have ks8500 and it has issues connecting with a vizio soundbar via hdmi arc.

It works after resetting the soundbar sometimes but turning off the tv for a half day or so and coming back it stops working.


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## Lao Tzu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> When was it released?
> 
> TCO


in us OCT 16,2017 | ver 1206.1 for KS8 Series
in Korea 09.11.2017 | ver 1208.0 for UN49KS8500FXKR


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## mrtbahgs

I just tried a forced update on my 65" 8000 and it says my 1207 firmware is up to date.
Not sure why the 8500 would have something newer and not the 8000 or perhaps the 1208 firmware isnt out to everyone yet?

Im set to auto updates and i feel like i recall the 1207 firmware just recently being installed, like within 3 weeks.


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## Shaded War

Seems like my TV back lighting is going bad on my 55" KS8000. A few weeks ago, it developed vertical dark areas. I didn't have problems before and it just randomly went to crap.


Most of them stop within a few inches from the bottom, but there is one in the middle that goes all the way to the top.

On brighter scenes, it's so distracting I can't stand it. When there is a scene that goes across the screen, my eye constantly stops on the dark spot in the middle and is driving me nuts. If I open a solid gray or white screen, it looks horrible. Like smokey-brown areas that start at the bottom and go straight up.

Factory reset didn't fix anything. 


Unfortunately, this happens 3 months after the 1 year warranty ended. That is a very poor warranty time for $1000+ TV.

Is there anything I can try at home to fix this? Otherwise, I'v sent in a repair request to Samsung. But when filling out the request, it says I may have to pay for all the repair services.


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## TheCautiousOne

I couldn't even imagine how to repair that at home. I am now wondering how long i've had my tv. 

TCO

EDIT: I purchased it on 9/28/16


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## mrtbahgs

Shaded War said:


> ...
> 
> Unfortunately, this happens 3 months after the 1 year warranty ended. That is a very poor warranty time for $1000+ TV.
> ...


Did you buy with a credit card?

Most cards that I know of have an extended warranty benefit where you typically gain 1 additional year of warranty as long as the original warranty is under 5 years. If you bought partially with gift cards or other odd pieces then it unfortunately isn't fully covered.

I've never gone through the process, but I believe you end up having the credit card company decide how the warranty work will go down and they pay for it etc.


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## TheCautiousOne

Just popping in to let yall know my TV is still rocking!! Love it with God of War. 

TCO


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## Inelastic

TheCautiousOne said:


> Just popping in to let yall know my TV is still rocking!! Love it with God of War.
> 
> TCO


Same with mine. FFXV looks amazing in 4K HDR.


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## mrtbahgs

Still don’t think I’ve tried a pc game on mine yet. Was going to try GRID Autosport with an Xbox controller at some point... 

As a reminder, I have the 65” as my main tv so I use it daily for that, but wanted to still hang out here with you crazy 49” pc monitor users.


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## TheCautiousOne

mrtbahgs said:


> Still don’t think I’ve tried a pc game on mine yet. Was going to try GRID Autosport with an Xbox controller at some point...
> 
> As a reminder, I have the 65” as my main tv so I use it daily for that, but wanted to still hang out here with you crazy 49” pc monitor users.


I've really never used it with my computer (Just to try out the 444 setting in windows) but really purchased the tube to use with the PS4 Pro. Great investments in my opinion. 

TCO


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## Bahlzeron

Have had my 49ks8500 for a bit over a year now, great colors, and good response time. I use it as both my PC monitor, and tv. Really wish it would remember my settings. The bottom left of the screen has recently started getting light bleed, it's slowly getting worse and spreading to the right (super pissed, a screen of this price range shouldn't be developing issues like this). I absolutely HATE the effin remote, is it possible to get a FULL FUNCTION universal to replace this zero function works when it feels like it P.O.S.? Ya know so I can actually use the tv without taking til the second coming of christ taking off the cover spin the batteries, try again.. nope, take out batteries switch positions, try again... nope, throw remote at floor in frustration... now it effin works for a few minutes.. yes even with fresh batteries it does the crap). Cant stress enough how much of a steaming pile of manure this remote is (roomates have a 6 series with similar remote, vol and ch are black in place of the chrome on mine, and have the exact same problems with it both physical not working problems and hate navigating the damned menus) My experience with this Samsung is not so great.. the Toshiba this replaced had it's minor annoyances, but at least it came with a usable remote, and remembered each inputs' settings.... and from 2008 to 2017 never developed a single screen flaw (not even 1 dead pixel) ONLY reason I replaced it, started to die.

In short... good panel, build quality seems slightly lacking for the price point, piss poor clicker design.


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## mrtbahgs

Not a fan of the updated Hulu app, seems less user friendly and more work to continue your common shows.


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## Inelastic

Just popping in to say I got rid of my tv. It started to develop some pretty bad led bleed at the bottom of the screen. There are 3 patches so far. It's hard to see in the photo, but the taskbar is also stuck on the screen. I'm not sure if that's temporary or permanent. I never bothered to try to remove it since my Best Buy protection plan was still good so I had them replace it with the Sony X900F.


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## Roxborough

Inelastic said:


> Just popping in to say I got rid of my tv. It started to develop some pretty bad led bleed at the bottom of the screen. There are 3 patches so far. It's hard to see in the photo, but the taskbar is also stuck on the screen. I'm not sure if that's temporary or permanent. I never bothered to try to remove it since my Best Buy protection plan was still good so I had them replace it with the Sony X900F.



I am having the same LED bleed at the bottom of the screen. Good job I got 6 years warranty. Just going to get it replaced when it gets too bad.


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## TheCautiousOne

Just realized I've had this tube for 2 years almost exactly. Good Stuff!

TCO


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## Roxborough

TheCautiousOne said:


> Just realized I've had this tube for 2 years almost exactly. Good Stuff!
> 
> TCO


How is your light bleed? If any?


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## TheCautiousOne

Roxborough said:


> How is your light bleed? If any?


For what I have been noticing, nothing in particular. If there was some when I bought it, then it is the same now. The hardest part with the tube that I get since I purchased it was when a Single white emblem is pictured on screen, it has a ton of I guess "bleed" into the blackness that is around it. Like an aura? 

TCO


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