# The [Official] Noctua Club



## animal0307

Welcome to the Noctua Club.
This is the spiritual successor to this *thread* (thanks Zippit for your work) but includes all of Noctua's great products. If you enjoy their heatsinks, fans or even their thermal paste feel free to join us here.

If you would like to be added to the list please post in the thread with a list of your Noctua Products. If you would please post a picture of your rig. It's not required but we all love some Noctua loving. If I manage to miss your post please pm me with a link to your post. If you are updating your current entry please state it.

Thank you,

Animal0307

*Official Website*
*OCN's Official NH-D14 Club*

Ehume's Review on the New PWM fans

The Noctua Club





</a>
*So Which Fan is Right for you?*

FANS

*NF-P14 FLX*









Size 140x140x25 mm
Bearing SSO-Bearing
Blade Geometry NF-P14 Blade Design with VCN
Rotational Speed (+/- 10%) 1200 RPM
Rotational Speed with L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 900 RPM
Rotational Speed with U.L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 750 RPM
Airflow 110,3 m³/h
Airflow with L.N.A. 83,7 m³/h
Airflow with U.L.N.A. 71,2 m³/h
Acoustical Noise 19,6 dB(A)
Acoustical Noise with L.N.A. 13,2 dB(A)
Acoustical Noise with U.L.N.A. 10,1 dB(A)
Static Pressure 1,29 mm H2O
Static Pressure with L.N.A. 0,77 mm H2O
Static Pressure with U.L.N.A. 0,53 mm H2O
Input Power 1,2 W
Input Current 0,1 A
Voltage Range 12 V
MTBF > 150.000 h

*NF-P12*








Size 120x120x25 mm
Bearing SSO-Bearing
Blade Geometry Nine Blade Design with VCN
Rotational Speed (+/- 10%) 1300 RPM
Rotational Speed with L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 1100 RPM
Rotational Speed with U.L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 900 RPM
Airflow 92,3 m³/h
Airflow with L.N.A. 78,5 m³/h
Airflow with U.L.N.A. 63,4 m³/h
Acoustical Noise 19,8 dB(A)
Acoustical Noise with L.N.A. 16,9 dB(A)
Acoustical Noise with U.L.N.A. 12,6 dB(A)
Static Pressure 1,68 mm H2O
Static Pressure with L.N.A. 1,43 mm H2O
Static Pressure with U.L.N.A. 1,21 mm H2O
Input Power 1,08 W
Input Current 0,09 A
Voltage Range 12 V
MTBF > 150.000 h

*NF-S12B FLX*








Size 120x120x25 mm
Bearing SSO-Bearing
Blade Geometry NF-S12B Blade Design with BBT
Rotational Speed (+/- 10%) 1200 RPM
Rotational Speed with L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 900 RPM
Rotational Speed with U.L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 600 RPM
Airflow 100,6 m³/h
Airflow with L.N.A. 75,8 m³/h
Airflow with U.L.N.A. 49,2 m³/h
Acoustical Noise 18,1 dB(A)
Acoustical Noise with L.N.A. 10,6 dB(A)
Acoustical Noise with U.L.N.A. 6,2* dB(A)
Static Pressure 1,31 mm H2O
Static Pressure with L.N.A. 0,76 mm H2O
Static Pressure with U.L.N.A. 0,34 mm H2O
Input Power 1,2 W
Input Current 0,1 A
Voltage Range 12 V
MTBF > 150.000 h

*NF-S12B ULN*








Size 120x120x25 mm
Bearing SSO-Bearing
Blade Geometry NF-S12B Blade Design with BBT
Rotational Speed (+/- 10%) 700 RPM
Rotational Speed with U.L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 500 RPM
Airflow 56,9 m³/h
Airflow with U.L.N.A. 38,2 m³/h
Acoustical Noise 6,8* dB(A)
Acoustical Noise with U.L.N.A. 5* dB(A)
Static Pressure 0,44 mm H2O
Static Pressure with U.L.N.A. 0,23 mm H2O
Input Power 0,6 W
Input Current 0,05 A
Voltage Range 12 V
MTBF > 150.000 h

*NF-F12 PMW*


Size 120x120x25 mm
Connector 4-pin PWM
Bearing SSO2
Blade Geometry Heptaperf™
Frame Technology Focused Flow™
Rotational Speed (+/- 10%) 1500 RPM
Rotational Speed with L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 1200 RPM
Min. Rotational Speed (PWM) 300 RPM
Airflow 93,4 m³/h
Airflow with L.N.A. 74,3 m³/h
Acoustical Noise 22,4 dB(A)
Acoustical Noise with L.N.A. 18,6 dB(A)
Static Pressure 2,61 mm H2O
Static Pressure with L.N.A. 1,83 mm H2O
Max. Input Power 0,6 W
Max. Input Current 0,05 A
Voltage 12 V
MTBF > 150.000 h
Scope of Delivery

* Low-Noise Adapter (L.N.A.)
* 4-Pin Y-Cable
* 30cm Extension Cable
* 4 Vibration-Compensators
* 4 Fan Screws

Warranty 6 years

*NF-B9*









Size 92x92x25 mm
Bearing SSO-Bearing
Blade Geometry NF-B9 Blade Design with BBT & VCN
Rotational Speed (+/- 10%) 1600 RPM
Rotational Speed with L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 1300 RPM
Rotational Speed with U.L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 1000 RPM
Airflow 64.3 m³/h
Airflow with L.N.A. 52,6 m³/h
Airflow with U.L.N.A. 41,1 m³/h
Acoustical Noise 17,6 dB(A)
Acoustical Noise with L.N.A. 13,1 dB(A)
Acoustical Noise with U.L.N.A. 7,9* dB(A)
Static Pressure 1,61 mm H2O
Static Pressure with L.N.A. 1,09 mm H2O
Static Pressure with U.L.N.A. 0,64 mm H2O
Input Power 1,32 W
Input Current 0,11 A
Voltage Range 12 V
MTBF > 150.000 h

NF-B9 PWN



Size 92x92x25 mm
Connector 4-pin PWM
Bearing SSO
Blade Geometry NF-B9 Blade Design
Rotational Speed (+/- 10%) 1600 RPM
Rotational Speed with L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 1300 RPM
Min. Rotational Speed (PWM) 300 RPM
Airflow 64.3 m³/h
Airflow with L.N.A. 52,6 m³/h
Acoustical Noise 17,6 dB(A)
Acoustical Noise with L.N.A. 13,1 dB(A)
Static Pressure 1,61 mm H2O
Static Pressure with L.N.A 1,09 mm H2O
Max. Input Power 0,96 W
Max. Input Current 0,08 A
Voltage 12 V
MTBF> 150.000 h

NF-R8 PWN



Size 80x80x25 mm
Connector 4-pin PWM
Bearing SSO
Blade Geometry Raised Blade Design
Rotational Speed (+/- 10%) 1800 RPM
Rotational Speed with L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 1300 RPM
Min. Rotational Speed (PWM) 300 RPM
Airflow 53,3 m³/h
Airflow with L.N.A. 39,4 m³/h
Acoustical Noise 17,1 dB(A)
Acoustical Noise with L.N.A.10,2 dB(A)
Static Pressure 1,41 mm H2O
Static Pressure with L.N.A. 0,74 mm H2O
Max. Input Power 0,72 W
Max. Input Current 0,06 A
Voltage 12 V
MTBF> 150.000 h

*NF-R8*









Size 80x80x25 mm
Bearing SSO-Bearing
Blade Geometry Raised-Blade-Design
Rotational Speed (+/- 10%) 1800 RPM
Rotational Speed with L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 1300 RPM
Rotational Speed with U.L.N.A. (+/- 10%) 800 RPM
Airflow 53 m³/h
Airflow with L.N.A. 39 m³/h
Airflow with U.L.N.A. 26 m³/h
Acoustical Noise 17 dB(A)
Acoustical Noise with L.N.A. 10 dB(A)
Acoustical Noise with U.L.N.A. 7* dB(A)
Input Power 1,32 W
Input Current 0,11 A
Voltage Range 4-13 V
MTBF > 150.000 h

HEATSINKS

*NH-D14*









Socket compatibility Intel LGA1366, LGA1156, LGA1155, LGA775 & AMD AM2, AM2+, AM3 (backplate required)
Height (without fan) 160 mm
Width (without fan) 140 mm
Depth (without fan) 130 mm
Height (with fan) 160 mm
Width (with fan) 140 mm
Depth (with fan) 158 mm
Weight (without fan) 900 g
Weight (with fan) 1070/1240* g
Material Copper (base and heat-pipes), aluminium (cooling fins), soldered joints & nickel plating
Fan compatibility 140x140x25 & 120x120x25mm

*NH-U12P SE2*









Socket compatibility Intel LGA1366, LGA1156, LGA1155, LGA775 & AMD AM2, AM2+, AM3 (backplate required)
Height (without fan) 158 mm
Width (without fan) 126 mm
Depth (without fan) 71 mm
Height (with fan) 158 mm
Width (with fan) 126 mm
Depth (with fan) 95/120* mm
Weight (without fan) 600 g
Weight (with fan) 770/940* g
Material Copper (base and heat-pipes), aluminium (cooling fins), soldered joints & nickel plating
Fan compatibility 120x120x25mm / 120x120x38mm

NH-L12


Socket compatibilty Intel LGA2011, LGA1366, LGA1156, LGA1155, LGA775 & AMD AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, FM1
Height (without fan) 66 mm
Width (without fan) 150 mm
Depth (without fan) 150 mm
Height (with fan) 93mm
Width (with fan) 128 mm
Depth (with fan) 150 mm
Weight (without fan) 415 g
Weight (with fan) 680 g
Material Copper (base and heat-pipes), aluminium (cooling fins), soldered joints & nickel plating
Fan compatibilty 120x120x25mm & 92x92x25mm

Inluded Items

1x NF-F12 PWM premium fan
1x NF-B9 PWM premium fan
2x Low-Noise Adaptor (L.N.A.)
Y-Split Cable
NT-H1 high-grade thermal compound
SecuFirm2™ Mounting Kit
Mini-ITX Mounting-Kit
Noctua Metal Case-Badge

*NH-C12P SE14*









Socket compatibility Intel LGA1366, LGA1156, LGA1155, LGA775 & AMD AM2, AM2+, AM3 (backplate required)
Height (without fan) 90 mm
Width (without fan) 126 mm
Depth (without fan) 152 mm
Height (with fan) 114 mm
Width (with fan) 140 mm
Depth (with fan) 152 mm
Weight (without fan) 550 g
Weight (with fan) 730 g
Material Copper (base and heat-pipes), aluminium (cooling fins), soldered joints & nickel plating
Fan compatibility 140x140x25mm / 120x120x25mm

*NH-C14*








Socket compatibility Intel LGA1366, LGA1156, LGA1155, LGA775 & AMD AM2, AM2+, AM3 (backplate required)
Height (without fan) 105 mm
Width (without fan) 140 mm
Depth (without fan) 166 mm
Height (with fan) 130 mm
Width (with fan) 140 mm
Depth (with fan) 166 mm
Weight (without fan) 700 g
Weight (with fan) 850/1000* g
Material Copper (base and heat-pipes), aluminium (cooling fins), soldered joints & nickel plating
Fan compatibility 140x140x25mm / 120x120x25mm

*NH-U9B SE2*









Socket compatibility Intel LGA1366, LGA1156, LGA1155, LGA775 & AMD AM2, AM2+, AM3 (backplate required)
Height (without fan) 125 mm
Width (without fan) 95 mm
Depth (without fan) 71 mm
Height (with fan) 125 mm
Width (with fan) 95 mm
Depth (with fan) 95/120* mm
Weight (without fan) 460 g
Weight (with fan) 550/640* g
Material Copper (base and heat-pipes), aluminium (cooling fins), soldered joints & nickel plating
Fan compatibility 2x 92x92x25mm

*Here* is Noctua's Server and Workstation heatsinks.


----------



## Tator Tot

I'm watching this thread for potential of "Official" status.

Please do remember that we are not supposed to use the "Unofficial" tag, as everything is unofficial unless stated otherwise.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;13517144*
> I'm watching this thread for potential of "Official" status.
> 
> Please do remember that we are not supposed to use the "Unofficial" tag, as everything is unofficial unless stated otherwise.


Ok sorry about that.


----------



## ydna666

Please sign me up









Love my:
NH-D14
NF-P14 FLX's (x2)
NH-C12P
NT-H1 Thermal Compund


----------



## Faraz

Add me, please: NH-U12P


----------



## Paladin Goo

Sign me up for being awesome.


----------



## nagle3092

Added


----------



## zhylun

I'm in! I love my NH-U12P.


----------



## nagle3092

Added


----------



## blackbalt89

I'd like to join too!

Noctua NH-D14.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13517164*
> Ok sorry about that.


It's alright, we normally just edit it out of the title but I have to give an official word about it so people don't think we're shadow modding or that they are insane.

Also, add up my Noctua U12P-SE2









One of the nicest coolers in my collection; if only for the fact that it works wonders for being a quiet solution (that used to be) relatively inexpensive. (Picked it up for $55 + Free shipping, now it's more around the $70 mark.)


----------



## PriestOfSin

NHC12P-SE14

I lurv it.


----------



## ikem

D14 reporting in.


----------



## nagle3092

Added








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;13517444*
> One of the nicest coolers in my collection; if only for the fact that it works wonders for being a quiet solution (that used to be) relatively inexpensive.


I have to agree with this as well, for my NH-U9B being as small as it is it works very well with my i5 at 4.7ghz. I also love the Secufirm2 mounting system, easily the best I have ever used.

Right now directron has some good prices on Noctua Products http://search.directron.com/newsearch.php?find=noctua


----------



## animal0307

This club is perfect for a couple questions I had the other day!!
C14/12p on a Rampage Formula x48

C14 in Lian Li A05

I hope to join the ranks soon!


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;13517553*
> This club is perfect for a couple questions I had the other day!!
> C14/12p on a Rampage Formula x48
> 
> C14 in Lian Li A05
> 
> I hope to join the ranks soon!


The C12P will fit just fine in the A05 not so sure about the C14. From what I read the C14 exceeds the top of the mobo by about 0.75" so if you can get some measurements that would help you alot. Also the heatsinks on that board might block the use of the bottom fan on the C14. C12P has your board on the Compatibility list if that helps.


----------



## animal0307

I figure that to bottom fan may need to be removed. Unfourtunately I don;t have the case at the moment. Its a slow upgrade process. But I can get some measurements from the board! Hold for an update.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;13517661*
> I figure that to bottom fan may need to be removed. Unfourtunately I don;t have the case at the moment. Its a slow upgrade process. But I can get some measurements from the board! Hold for an update.


You should ask someone in the A05 club to give you a measurement from the bottom of the case to the board.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13517688*
> You should ask someone in the A05 club to give you a measurement from the bottom of the case to the board.


That's a good idea good idea. I will get on it.


----------



## PyroTechNiK

Add me please


----------



## nagle3092

Added


----------



## ehume

NH-D14 (with stock P12 AND P14)
Retail NF-P14-FLX
Retail NF-P12
Retail NF-S12B-FLX
Retail NF-B9
Retail NF-R8

Check out item 4 in my sig for my adventures with my D14, like this:










and this, showing that it is compatible with Ripjaws:


----------



## cplcoke

Definitely love the effectiveness of my NH-D14. Add me please!


----------



## nagle3092

Added









Looks like you put the NH-D14 though its paces ehume, are you running the Noctua fans right now or with GT's?


----------



## j.col

i'm in. i have a NH-D14
not sure if you need proof but here is mine


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j.col;13550477*
> i'm in. i have a NH-D14
> not sure if you need proof but here is mine


Well not proof per say but just a list of your Noctua products. I'll add you to the list once I get home though.

Ok, your added


----------



## indigo995

Please add me -- D14 with stock fans. Though I'm considering switching them to Gentle Typhoons or some quieter fans, I find the middle large 140mm to be quite loud even at idle (with the ULNA it's fine).


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *indigo995;13580876*
> Please add me -- D14 with stock fans. Though I'm considering switching them to Gentle Typhoons or some quieter fans, I find the middle large 140mm to be quite loud even at idle (with the ULNA it's fine).


Ok your added, did you try it with just the LNA adapter?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13581012*
> Ok your added, did you try it with just the LNA adapter?


There is no LNA adapter - that's for the retail fans. The D14 comes with two ULNA's, one for each fan.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume;13581229*
> There is no LNA adapter - that's for the retail fans. The D14 comes with two ULNA's, one for each fan.


I didn't know that, thats weird my NH-U9B came with both.


----------



## hawkeeyee

NH-D14
NF-P14-FLX
2xNF-P12
4xNF-S12B-FLX
NF-B9
NF-R8

if I add my brother PC->
NH-D14
1xNF-S12B-FLX
1xNF-S12B-ULN


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hawkeeyee;13583205*
> NH-D14
> NF-P14-FLX
> 2xNF-P12
> 4xNF-S12B-FLX
> NF-B9
> NF-R8
> 
> if I add my brother PC->
> NH-D14
> 1xNF-S12B-FLX
> 1xNF-S12B-ULN


Ok, I added you







. If your brother makes an OCN account have him stop by here and I will add him as well.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hawkeeyee;13583205*
> NH-D14
> NF-P14-FLX
> 2xNF-P12
> 4xNF-S12B-FLX
> NF-B9
> NF-R8
> 
> if I add my brother PC->
> NH-D14
> 1xNF-S12B-FLX
> 1xNF-S12B-ULN


Just curious: what are you using those S12B's for? And the B9 and R8? Mine are all gathering dust.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume;13586417*
> Just curious: what are you using those S12B's for? And the B9 and R8? Mine are all gathering dust.


Why do you have them gathering dust? No use for them?


----------



## hawkeeyee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume;13586417*
> Just curious: what are you using those S12B's for? And the B9 and R8? Mine are all gathering dust.


I use S12-FLX as outake in raven2 evo, brother use another as outake in F02

S12-ULN as well as B9 and R8 are covering dust right now







but before that, B9 was on my brothers noctua cooler - he couldn't have P12 as intake because of high RAMs so he tried it with B9 and later he bought D14








and R8 I was using first as cooler fan for HDD in zalman gs1000 and later on VRM R4 on my 5850. S12-ULN was as outake in antec p-182


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13586460*
> Why do you have them gathering dust? No use for them?


None. Learned some lessons.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hawkeeyee;13586619*
> I use S12-FLX as outake in raven2 evo, brother use another as outake in F02
> 
> S12-ULN as well as B9 and R8 are covering dust right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but before that, B9 was on my brothers noctua cooler - he couldn't have P12 as intake because of high RAMs so he tried it with B9 and later he bought D14
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and R8 I was using first as cooler fan for HDD in zalman gs1000 and later on VRM R4 on my 5850. S12-ULN was as outake in antec p-182


Sounds like you learned some lessons as well.


----------



## hawkeeyee

well no








i still have noctua on top of my list of fans...what is their best future is that they run as new for almost 4y...i have one of the first 12cm fans on market and it's still running like new.


----------



## M.Marcelo

Hello guys I would like to join too. Using a D-14 and an NH-P12 F.L.X. on my side panel. Btw need any pictures to proove?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M.Marcelo*


Hello guys I would like to join too. Using a D-14 and an NH-P12 F.L.X. on my side panel. Btw need any pictures to proove?


Pictures are always welcome, but not needed


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M.Marcelo*


Hello guys I would like to join too. Using a D-14 and an NH-P12 F.L.X. on my side panel. Btw need any pictures to proove?


You can post pics if you would like, your added btw


----------



## M.Marcelo

Well I'm happy to share with you my pride and joy, my first build, which has some issues but I still love it. Here are my Noctua stuff (I love the outstanding brown-beige colour scheme on them







):

Excuse the lack of cable management, this is the best I can do with this case


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M.Marcelo;13629420*
> I love the outstanding brown-beige colour scheme on them


Same here








It looks good though:thumb:

Sent from my LG-VM670 using Tapatalk


----------



## Zero4549

I've got a couple of NF-P14 FLX fans in my HTPC as case fans and a NF-P12 on it's radiator. Love the color and the quality on them.


----------



## Antsu

U12P SE2, handles my OC like a beast! Im in!


----------



## M.Marcelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antsu;13629596*
> U12P SE2, handles my OC like a beast! Im in!


I am so curious about your temps


----------



## Antsu

I currently max 78C on the hottest core, but you gotta see that I have HT OFF.


----------



## M.Marcelo

Oh, that explains all. Coz I thought that 4.6 Ghz is impossible with air cooling and HT on. Well enjoy your Noctuas


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zero4549*


I've got a couple of NF-P14 FLX fans in my HTPC as case fans and a NF-P12 on it's radiator. Love the color and the quality on them.


Your added







, let me know if I got the count correct. I just took a guess at "a couple" and said 2.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Antsu*


U12P SE2, handles my OC like a beast! Im in!


Your added as well


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M.Marcelo;13629420*
> Well I'm happy to share with you my pride and joy, my first build, which has some issues but I still love it. Here are my Noctua stuff (I love the outstanding brown-beige colour scheme on them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):
> 
> Excuse the lack of cable management, this is the best I can do with this case


Nice first build. Clever method of fastening an intake fan to the side panel. (If it ever gets too noisy, go with a slow-spinning large diameter fan. You might even fit a 200mm fan on there, perhaps with Velcro.) Keep up the good work.


----------



## animal0307

Bought my NH-C14 tonight. Hope it will be in Tuesday. Need a picture? I can post a screen of my Newegg order.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *animal0307*


Bought my NH-C14 tonight. Hope it will be in Tuesday. Need a picture? I can post a screen of my Newegg order.


<---- jealous
I am currently waiting for funds to get one. I'll add you here in a bit though, I'm on my phone right now.

Edit: Your added


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13663309*
> <---- jealous
> I am currently waiting for funds to get one. I'll add you here in a bit though, I'm on my phone right now.
> 
> Edit: Your added


Haha, I know you are. I've been watching your wanted thread. I just hope it will fit on my board with my ram. If not I'll have to return it or just resell.


----------



## Ecchi-BANZAII!!!

*Ecchi-BANZAII!!!
*
Coolers:
1x NHU-12P***
1x NHU-12P SE2
1x NHD-14

Fans:
1x NF-P14 FLX
5x NF-P12*** Sold


----------



## kzone75

NH-D14 owner here.







Bought it second-hand, but crikey it's awesome! Didn't get the thermal paste with it, nor the Noctua metal badge thingy. But I bought a Storm Sniper (used) that already had the badge on it.









Got some pics over at the NH-D14-club. Will take new ones if needed.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ecchi-BANZAII!!!*


*Ecchi-BANZAII!!!
*
Coolers:
1x NHU-12P***
1x NHU-12P SE2
1x NHD-14

Fans:
1x NF-P14 FLX
5x NF-P12*** Sold


I added you and your current Noctua products









Quote:



Originally Posted by *kzone75*


NH-D14 owner here.







Bought it second-hand, but crikey it's awesome! Didn't get the thermal paste with it, nor the Noctua metal badge thingy. But I bought a Storm Sniper (used) that already had the badge on it.









Got some pics over at the NH-D14-club. Will take new ones if needed.










Pics are not needed, you can post them if you would like though. At least it worked out in the end and you got the metal badge







I got mine on my Lian Li (waiting for Lian Li purists to







).


----------



## Ecchi-BANZAII!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13673458*
> I added you and your current Noctua products


The fans are not sold, it became a line break error.
Quote:


> Fans:
> 1x NF-P14 FLX
> 5x NF-P12*** Sold


Was meant to be
Quote:


> Fans:
> 1x NF-P14 FLX
> 5x NF-P12*
> 
> ** Sold


To state that the cooler is sold.
I would never part from my P12's


----------



## mrcool63

add me in. just installed a noctua nh-u12p se2. marathon 1 hour session...hew:


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecchi-BANZAII!!!;13674181*
> The fans are not sold, it became a line break error.
> 
> Was meant to be
> 
> To state that the cooler is sold.
> I would never part from my P12's


Ok its fixed








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrcool63;13674915*
> add me in. just installed a noctua nh-u12p se2. marathon 1 hour session...hew:


Your added also









Edit: Just ordered my NH-C14:wheee:


----------



## GAMERIG

I admire the Noctua Cooler only.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG;13678580*
> I admire the Noctua Cooler only.


Is that an entry, or just saying that you like their heatsinks?


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13678602*
> Is that an entry, or *just saying that you like their heatsinks*?


see *strike text*; and *bold*..


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG;13688543*
> see *strike text*; and *bold*..


Easy enough


----------



## systemlayers

I have 4 NF-S12B ULN fans and 1 NF-P12 add me in?









Also anyone see this video from computex yet? A couple of interesting prototypes and it seems they've modified the D14 to allow high ram heatsinks. If it provides the same cooling it's sure to be real popular. The downdraft cooler looks beastly.





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ULlAPODBo4[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## Wishmaker

I got one and it sits in the box. Does that count?


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *systemlayers;13710596*
> I have 4 NF-S12B ULN fans and 1 NF-P12 add me in?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also anyone see this video from computex yet? A couple of interesting prototypes and it seems they've modified the D14 to allow high ram heatsinks. If it provides the same cooling it's sure to be real popular. The downdraft cooler looks beastly.


Nice video, I havent seen that yet all I seen was articles. I like the new fans, cant wait to get my hands on some of them. The downdraft heatsink looks promising but it looks like it would need a side panel mod to actually get fresh air back to that second fan. Of course that would depend on the width of your case as well. Overall I like the new products they showed but I'm most interested in the fans. Im gonna have to email Jakob and see when they are going to be available to retail.

Your added btw







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wishmaker;13710633*
> I got one and it sits in the box. Does that count?


Well do you like/enjoy Noctuas products? Thats all thats really required.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *systemlayers;13710596*


I want to know what that big monster looking fan was on the top left end the end of the video.


----------



## dkreventon

anyone knows how many applies of thermal paste are in the NT-H1 seringe?

anyway, I want to join this club too


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkreventon;13726296*
> anyone knows how many applies of thermal paste are in the NT-H1 seringe?
> 
> anyway, I want to join this club too


Not sure you can really but an exact number of applies on a tube of paste but I can tell you there is a decent amount of applies. I have used it twice on my cpu and re applied the tim on my gpu also and there is still paste left.

Give me a list of what you got and I will get you added.


----------



## dkreventon

I've applied it once on a napkin (first little drop), a small line on the cpu (did a mistake after that) and then a normal amount. I wish there is left for at least 3 applies.

my only noctua thing is the nh-d14

I would also like to have the signature in html version for use

also got a youtube video





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBSHsrFocQA[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## nagle3092

Ok your added.

You found it


----------



## dkreventon

it is in the very first post of the thread







)

"
The Noctua Club
"


----------



## tats

Just ordered a D14 - I have been messing with my chip and looking to go for 4.9-5.1 so I'm gonna see how it compares to my H50. I'm a bit nervous about the size, but I see other have it in a R3 and my RAM is pretty low so I should be good.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tats;13726902*
> Just ordered a D14 - I have been messing with my chip and looking to go for 4.9-5.1 so I'm gonna see how it compares to my H50. I'm a bit nervous about the size, but I see other have it in a R3 and my RAM is pretty low so I should be good.


You will probably be fine, did you check compatibility?


----------



## tats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13726937*
> You will probably be fine, did you check compatibility?


With the case? With the Ram?

I checked out the Fractal Club and saw several members with the D14 and here is my ram, and it is really low profile.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tats;13726979*
> With the case? With the Ram?
> 
> I checked out the Fractal Club and saw several members with the D14 and here is my ram, and it is really low profile.


With both, the case supports heatsinks up to 165mm and the D14 is 160mm. Also your ram is on the compatibility list (just checked).


----------



## tats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13727028*
> With both, the case supports heatsinks up to 165mm and the D14 is 160mm. Also your ram is on the compatibility list (just checked).


Nice, I like your official way of checking (basically ACTUALLY checking) where instead I creep around the internet and then pull the trigger without confirmation.


----------



## animal0307

Hey Nagle! Be jealous! My C14 showed up today!









It was a tight fit in my A05N with my Asus Rampage Formula. It covers the whole entire chipset and mosphets. I can actually fit what ever height ram I want to in the outer(white) ram slots with it installed this way. It's just a shame my OCZ Reapers make system unstable when installed with my Corsair sticks. My case makes this thing look huge and it is.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;13729296*
> Hey Nagle! Be jealous! My C14 showed up today!
> _**snip**_


I would be, but I ordered one Sunday and its arriving tomorrow.









Looks good though, cant wait to see how it fits in my A04.


----------



## animal0307

Oh very nice. It's going to be an even tighter fit for you. Isn't the A04 is even smaller?


----------



## Darkcyde

Add me please.

I have several Noctua fans

In my old P4 banger, I have:

One NF-P12 in the side panel,









and one dusty NF-B9 in front









In my sig rig I have:

Two NF-P12s on top pulling through an 240mm Black Ice radiator,









one NF-P12 at the back(exhaust)









one NF-P12 in the front 5.25 bays(intake)









and one NF-P14 FLX in the side panel









5 - NF-P12s
1 - NF-B9
1 - NF-P14 FLX

I even sent an email to Noctua to suggest they make an NF-P20 200mm fan. So far, no dice.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;13732094*
> Oh very nice. It's going to be an even tighter fit for you. Isn't the A04 is even smaller?


Yeah it is smaller, if my measurements are correct though I will be good to go.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkcyde;13732423*
> Add me please.
> 
> I have several Noctua fans
> 
> _**snip**
> _
> 5 - NF-P12s
> 1 - NF-B9
> 1 - NF-P14 FLX
> 
> I even sent an email to Noctua to suggest they make an NF-P20 200mm fan. So far, no dice.


Your added








200mm fans have a really small market, I doubt they would make anything that big. I could be wrong so you never know maybe you'll get lucky.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkcyde;13732423*
> I even sent an email to Noctua to suggest they make an NF-P20 200mm fan. So far, no dice.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13732746*
> 200mm fans have a really small market, I doubt they would make anything that big. I could be wrong so you never know maybe you'll get lucky.


I hope they make a 200mm fan. I know it's a small market but all the fans in that market are pure crap. If Noctua built a 200mm fan they would dominate that market in my option. Besides if they had a 200mm I would be popping a big ol' hole in the side on my A05N to make room for one.


----------



## Addictedtokaos

NF-P14 FLX
2xNF-S12B FLX
NH-U12P SE2


----------



## Addictedtokaos

@Darkcyde

what did you use to fill the horrible gap between the modright 140mm filter and your p14?


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addictedtokaos;13733942*
> NF-P14 FLX
> 2xNF-S12B FLX
> NH-U12P SE2


Your added:thumb:


----------



## Darkcyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Addictedtokaos;13734003*
> @Darkcyde
> 
> what did you use to fill the horrible gap between the modright 140mm filter and your p14?


My side panel is 1/2" clear acrylic and the 140mm hole has mounting holes for 120mm and 140mm fans. The only gap is the 1/2" between the filter and the fan. It works pretty well.


----------



## Addictedtokaos

Ah, because the fans are turning it looks like you used something to fill that gap. I used foil ducting tape to close all the gaps. I cant beleive ModRite sells those things.

Im sure air takes the less obstructive path... So, I really wonder how well the filter works without blocking that gap around the filter.


----------



## nagle3092

Got my NH-C14 today :whee: loving it so far. Some things to note are though the 140mm fans are definitely louder than I expected even with the L.N.A. adapters but thats ok. I will be replacing them + my intakes when the new fans launch around October. 
Mounting it was a little challenging since my case is so small I had to remove the gpu cause it was so close as you can see in the pic. 
Temps are nice, I dropped about 10c off my U9B so I think it was worth it. 
Also it was a good thing that I have the backplate for my 570 because the wire clips are touching it.
(sorry all I have atm is my phone)


----------



## animal0307

Wow. That was a tight fit. Gotta love stuffing big things into small spaces. I really haven't noticed that the fans are all that loud. But my ambient noise it really loud. And my 5770's drowns out the P14's anyways.


----------



## animal0307

Do I really need more fans? I think so. Starting to draw up plans for a 3x140 setup in the top of my A05N. All Noctua P14's of course. If you thought the C14 was a close fit wait till you get a load of this. Zero clearance all round.

*EDIT:* Just ordered *5x* P14-flx's


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *animal0307*


Do I really need more fans? I think so. Starting to draw up plans for a 3x140 setup in the top of my A05N. All Noctua P14's of course. If you thought the C14 was a close fit wait till you get a load of this. Zero clearance all round.

*EDIT:* Just ordered *5x* P14-flx's











Wow, that is gonna be a tight fit. Are you gonna add any more intakes on the bottom of it as well?


----------



## Volkz

Please sign me up love my NH-U12P SE2 and the NF-P12 fans.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Volkz*


Please sign me up love my NH-U12P SE2 and the NF-P12 fans.


I added you, but do you know you have an NH-U9B in your sig?


----------



## animal0307

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nagle3092*


Wow, that is gonna be a tight fit. Are you gonna add any more intakes on the bottom of it as well?


yupp thats why i ordered 5. but those aren'nearly as tight of a fit.


----------



## nagle3092

Thats gonna look pretty slick once your done, you'll have to throw some pics in this thread then.


----------



## smash_mouth01

I would love to join

NH-D14,NH-U12P

5x NF-P12's, 2x NF-P14 FLX


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smash_mouth01*


I would love to join

NH-D14,NH-U12P

5x NF-P12's, 2x NF-P14 FLX


Your added


----------



## smash_mouth01

Thank you very much.


----------



## Darkcyde

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Addictedtokaos*


Ah, because the fans are turning it looks like you used something to fill that gap. I used foil ducting tape to close all the gaps. I cant beleive ModRite sells those things.

Im sure air takes the less obstructive path... So, I really wonder how well the filter works without blocking that gap around the filter.


Mine fits nice and tight and works well. I have to clean it once every week.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13752109*
> Thats gonna look pretty slick once your done, you'll have to throw some pics in this thread then.


I will for sure. Also gonna post in the A05N club and I'm starting a late build log sometime here in the next weekish.


----------



## issepower

Can i join please? I have 2 NF-S12B FLX in my case


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *issepower;13772929*
> Can i join please? I have 2 NF-S12B FLX in my case


Of course you can join, your added


----------



## issepower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13772956*
> Of course you can join, your added


Thanks!


----------



## TC_Fenua

Can I join ?










_Noctua goodness !_

I love my Noctuas, and have been loving them for a pretty long time. My first Noctua product was a NH-U12F, very nice cpu cooler









Right now I have those :
_NH-D14 cpu cooler
_NF-S12B FLX x3 for the case

Take care !


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TC_Fenua;13775697*
> Can I join ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _Noctua goodness !_
> 
> I love my Noctuas, and have been loving them for a pretty long time. My first Noctua product was a NH-U12F, very nice cpu cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right now I have those :
> _NH-D14 cpu cooler
> _NF-S12B FLX x3 for the case
> 
> Take care !










That looks awesome, nice setup! Your added btw


----------



## TC_Fenua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13776543*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks awesome, nice setup! Your added btw


Thank you







You can find more about my rig here


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TC_Fenua;13776589*
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can find more about my rig here


Rep'd for fantastic pictures


----------



## Mr.Eiht

Hi there. Glad i saw this thread.
Always looked at the d14 club.
I only got a
NH-C14
but i hope this will be accepted.
Don`t look at the red marked cable in the picture of my cage








Cheers!


----------



## TC_Fenua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz;13776637*
> Rep'd for fantastic pictures


Thank you kind sir


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Eiht;13776730*
> Hi there. Glad i saw this thread.
> Always looked at the d14 club.
> I only got a
> NH-C14
> but i hope this will be accepted.
> Don`t look at the red marked cable in the picture of my cage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!


I got a C14 also







, I'll get you added here in a bit.
Where did you get that backplate for your 5850? I had 2 toxics and I couldnt find a backplate anywhere for them.
Also you might want to see if you can adjust your C14, you actually have it in an unrecommended position right now. Noctua recommends that the heatpipes be either to the left, right, or below the CPU socket.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.Eiht;13776730*
> Hi there. Glad i saw this thread.
> Always looked at the d14 club.
> I only got a
> NH-C14
> but i hope this will be accepted.
> Don`t look at the red marked cable in the picture of my cage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!


Hey bud you might want to try remounting your C14. It's not recommended that the ends for your heatpipes be facing down. But I am curious about your tempts though. Never seem one mounted that way.


----------



## Mr.Eiht

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nagle3092*


I got a C14 also







, I'll get you added here in a bit.


Thanks for both. I thought that i am the only one on this planet who has a C14.

Quote:



Where did you get that backplate for your 5850? I had 2 toxics and I couldnt find a backplate anywhere for them.


This is the 2GB version. The backplate was already mounted. I never realized that this is something special. I thought this was stock








But thanks for enlighten me!

Quote:



you actually have it in an unrecommended position right now.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *animal0307*


It's not recommended that the ends for your heatpipes be facing down. But I am curious about your tempts though. Never seem one mounted that way.


Yes, no.







Maybe (under strange circumstaces) i thought up is down.
I will think about remounting but this cage (Antec 300) is so small








It was hell of a work to put it inside!
With my [email protected],74GHz and 1,3v applied my max. temps were 61Â°C.
This was after an endless time of running IBT.
[email protected]~30-35Â°C depending on ambient temps. 
Maybe you can tell me whether these temps are good or bad - because is they are good i wouldn`t remount that thing. BTW above the heatpipes is the casefan. Maybe that was another reason why i mounted it this way.
And thanks for not nagging about my cable "management"


----------



## animal0307

Imagine that there are three in there. Major update with more pics in my build log in my sig


----------



## TG_bigboss

Sign me up please! D-14, NF-P12, NF-P14 FLX x2 =D I love Noctua, but hate the price lol. Oh well it is so worth it.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;13790850*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Imagine that there are three in there. Major update with more pics in my build log in my sig


That looks pretty cool, I was thinking you was going to have them as exhaust. You'll have to post some before and after temps once your done.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TG_bigboss;13790981*
> Sign me up please! D-14, NF-P12, NF-P14 FLX x2 =D I love Noctua, but hate the price lol. Oh well it is so worth it.


Your added


----------



## TG_bigboss

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nagle3092*


Your added










Yay! =)


----------



## animal0307

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nagle3092*


That looks pretty cool, I was thinking you was going to have them as exhaust. You'll have to post some before and after temps once your done.


I may but with my new gpu coolers my air flow is going to be fun to figure out.


----------



## GAMERIG

I really wish that noctua makes *black* fans..


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;13792001*
> I may but with my new gpu coolers my air flow is going to be fun to figure out.


Well thats gonna be tough, I would try to make the bottom 2 and back intake and the top 3 + L.N.A. adapters and front exhaust. The reason I said with L.N.A is so that hopefully it will balance the air going in and out more. Or you could try the middle and back top as intakes and the front exhaust.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG;13797706*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really wish that noctua makes *black* fans..


Added


----------



## NKrader

My Sossamans Love their 140mm Noctuas!


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NKrader;13799606*
> My Sossamans Love their 140mm Noctuas!


How many do you have?


----------



## NKrader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13799626*
> How many do you have?


hmmm. 2 sammy rigs. with corsair 400watt psu.

so. 3 noctua 140's. one for each rig and 1 in the psu


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NKrader;13799678*
> hmmm. 2 sammy rigs. with corsair 400watt psu.
> 
> so. 3 noctua 140's. one for each rig and 1 in the psu


Sounds good, got you added as well


----------



## animal0307

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nagle3092*


Well thats gonna be tough, I would try to make the bottom 2 and back intake and the top 3 + L.N.A. adapters and front exhaust. The reason I said with L.N.A is so that hopefully it will balance the air going in and out more. Or you could try the middle and back top as intakes and the front exhaust.


I had thought about that setup but I found one these and plan on getting a second.

This is what I was thinking. Only major problem with this is that my GPU will be washing my CPU in hot air. And I will have to find/make a 3x140 dust filter for the top which could ruin the clean look of the A05.









This is what you are thinking right? The big problem with this one is that my GPU coolers push air at the card. I'm not sure how well they will work if I flip the fans and use them to pull air. 









I will be giving every option a through run through though.


----------



## nagle3092

Here's some much needed updated pics of my rig after some rearranging.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Choopy!

Hey Nagle, couple questions if ya don't mind.

I was thinking about building an i5 system in the same case that you have, and was looking at that exact cooler, since apparently large 120mm towers would be way too big for the case.

1. Does the C14 block the first pcie slot? I noticed you had your video card moved down a bit, but it's hard to tell if it's actually blocking it from pics.

2. You have a nice overclock! That seems to be a nice cooler as far as performance. Do you know anything about the NH-U9B though, and if it would be sufficient to cool a 2500k @~4.0-4.4ghz?


----------



## TC_Fenua

Really nice pics Nagle ! Keep them coming


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Choopy!*


Hey Nagle, couple questions if ya don't mind.

I was thinking about building an i5 system in the same case that you have, and was looking at that exact cooler, since apparently large 120mm towers would be way too big for the case.

1. Does the C14 block the first pcie slot? I noticed you had your video card moved down a bit, but it's hard to tell if it's actually blocking it from pics.

2. You have a nice overclock! That seems to be a nice cooler as far as performance. Do you know anything about the NH-U9B though, and if it would be sufficient to cool a 2500k @~4.0-4.4ghz?


Yep it fits just fine, it (c14) doesn't block any slots. I just moved down my gpu so there would be more airflow between the CPU and CPU. Gpu temps stayed the same but my CPU dropped a little when gaming since its not pulling the heat from the card.

The U9B is plenty to cool the 2500k, I actually had one before I got my C14. I had it at 4.7ghz for some time but dropped it to 4.5 cause I wanted the fans quieter.

Either way they are both good coolers and will handle a 2500K just fine.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TC_Fenua*


Really nice pics Nagle ! Keep them coming










Thanks, I finally figured out how to take some good pics thanks to the thread in the case section. I might take some more tomorrow.


----------



## matrix2000x2

I have a Noctua NF-S12. Sign me up!


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *matrix2000x2*


I have a Noctua NF-S12. Sign me up!


Do you have the FLX or the ULN? I'll just leave it as NF-S12B for now, your added though


----------



## Choopy!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13830877*
> Yep it fits just fine, it (c14) doesn't block any slots. I just moved down my gpu so there would be more airflow between the CPU and CPU. Gpu temps stayed the same but my CPU dropped a little when gaming since its not pulling the heat from the card.
> 
> The U9B is plenty to cool the 2500k, I actually had one before I got my C14. I had it at 4.7ghz for some time but dropped it to 4.5 cause I wanted the fans quieter.
> 
> Either way they are both good coolers and will handle a 2500K just fine.
> 
> Thanks, I finally figured out how to take some good pics thanks to the thread in the case section. I might take some more tomorrow.


Thanks for the reply! It's good to know either will be sufficient. I'll probably just get the U9B since my OC will be a little more modest most likely..but the SFF prototype at computex looks great. That may be something new to try out in the future.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Choopy!*


Thanks for the reply! It's good to know either will be sufficient. I'll probably just get the U9B since my OC will be a little more modest most likely..but the SFF prototype at computex looks great. That may be something new to try out in the future.


Np, the U9B is pretty nice, I know it served me well for awhile. Its hard to tell where that prototype is going to fit though. I'm guessing its going to fall in between the NH-C12P and the NH-C14 but its hard to tell. Guess we will find out if it ever gets released. I'm mainly looking forward to the new fans, Jakob said they should be coming around October but price has not been decided yet.


----------



## smash_mouth01

Any information on the performance of these said fan's?


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smash_mouth01;13832341*
> Any information on the performance of these said fan's?


I haven't been able to get any info on them besides the proposed release date. Noctuas being pretty tight lipped about them right now.


----------



## TC_Fenua

New picture :


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TC_Fenua;13838738*
> New picture :


Looking good









Now that I know how to take good pics I kinda wanna keep doing it.


----------



## TC_Fenua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13839334*
> Looking good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I know how to take good pics I kinda wanna keep doing it.


Carefull, photography is like a drug







Sometimes I throw away what can be considered decent shots, but I'm kinda obsessed with quality, haha

Time for my pills


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TC_Fenua;13839399*
> Carefull, photography is like a drug
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes I throw away what can be considered decent shots, but I'm kinda obsessed with quality, haha
> 
> Time for my pills


That doesnt sounds reassuring, I dont need any other hobbies computers are expensive enough.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13839419*
> That doesnt sounds reassuring, I dont need any other hobbies computers are expensive enough.


If you can avoid wanting better equipment, and limiting yourself to the fanatical pursuit of great shots, photography in these days of digital images is extremely inexpensive. You no longer have to pay for film, chemicals and paper - or that enlarger (I had to give mine away). Now you can go nuts for almost nothing . . . but your time.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ehume*


If you can avoid wanting better equipment, and limiting yourself to the fanatical pursuit of great shots, photography in these days of digital images is extremely inexpensive. You no longer have to pay for film, chemicals and paper - or that enlarger (I had to give mine away). Now you can go nuts for almost nothing . . . but your time.


Thats not so bad then I suppose. I dont see myself buying a new camera anyways since all my extra money goes to my rig when I have a chance.

Heres some more photos, I didnt want to upload them here and kill the page.

http://imageshack.us/g/191/dsc05592n.jpg/


----------



## TC_Fenua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13840160*
> Heres some more photos, I didnt want to upload them here and kill the page.
> 
> http://imageshack.us/g/191/dsc05592n.jpg/


I really like the #6, #11 and #13







( especially the #6 )


----------



## nagle3092

Thanks, I was just trying to play around with different things. I really liked the idea of using the monitor as a light source, it makes everything look so much nicer than it really is lol.


----------



## ehume

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nagle3092*


. . .
Heres some more photos, I didnt want to upload them here and kill the page.

http://imageshack.us/g/191/dsc05592n.jpg/


Wise decision. When you take so many good shots of the same subject it's hard to decide which single shot to use, when all you need to have is a single shot.

They are pretty. I especially liked #9 for some odd reason.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13799580*
> Added


thanks!


----------



## animal0307

Total count is now 7x NF-P14's FLX


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *animal0307*


Total count is now 7x NF-P14's FLX











Dont worry, I had already fixed your number once you said you ordered 5 of them


----------



## MrPotato53

could you please sign me up??

I'm using NH-D14...


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPotato53;13863767*
> could you please sign me up??
> 
> I'm using NH-D14...


Np man, got you added


----------



## dkreventon

can the 2 fans (nf p12 and nf p14) fron the D14 connected into the Y cable be silenced using a fan controller or do I have to connect each one individually?

in the manual it is written not to use the included resistors for silencing the fans but I don't know about a fan controller


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkreventon;13864379*
> can the 2 fans (nf p12 and nf p14) fron the D14 connected into the Y cable be silenced using a fan controller or do I have to connect each one individually?
> 
> in the manual it is written not to use the included resistors for silencing the fans but I don't know about a fan controller


I am not sure to be honest, I think its possible but I think it depends on your fan controller and how many fans it can support on 1 channel.


----------



## dkreventon

it is the scythe kaze master pro


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13864696*
> I am not sure to be honest, I think its possible but I think it depends on your fan controller and how many fans it can support on 1 channel.


I hooked up a single resistor back when i thought that one was a LNA and one was a ULNA. But the resistor wires are both ULNA's. Thinking about it, I would recommend using the Y-cable, then connecting each fan with its own ULNA to the Y-cable.

Of course, that supposes you can vary the voltage. If not, just connect them through their ULNA's to Molex and be done with it.


----------



## animal0307

^^^^What they said. you shuld be fine. just depends on how many watts you fan controller can handle per channel.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume;13865860*
> I hooked up a single resistor back when i thought that one was a LNA and one was a ULNA. But the resistor wires are both ULNA's. Thinking about it, I would recommend using the Y-cable, then connecting each fan with its own ULNA to the Y-cable.
> 
> Of course, that supposes you can vary the voltage. If not, just connect them through their ULNA's to Molex and be done with it.


Thats actually how I have all my fans setup, fan-ULNA resistor-Ycable-Fan header.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkreventon;13865374*
> it is the scythe kaze master pro


I dont know to much about amps and what not but the spec says that it can handle 1 amp per channel and the P14 is 0.1amp and the P12 is 0.09amp so I would think it would be fine with both on 1 header.


----------



## Zero4549

Figured I'd share one of my photos from upgrading the ram in my server. I feel it shows off the beauty of the Noctuas. Just TRY to say this is ugly and doesn't fit in well.


----------



## W4rlock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zero4549*


Figured I'd share one of my photos from upgrading the ram in my server. I feel it shows off the beauty of the Noctuas. Just TRY to say this is ugly and doesn't fit in well.


----------



## ehume

+rep for the pretty pic.


----------



## nagle3092

That looks pretty awesome, I love the color of Noctuas.


----------



## animal0307

My phone takes terrible pictures but I love these so much.


----------



## nagle3092

That looks pretty sweet, can't wait to see how everything turns out once its done.


----------



## stonecold

Can i Join. I got NH-C14 CPU COOLER and 5 X NF-12BFLX


----------



## nagle3092

Nice rig!
I'll get you added here in a minute









Edit: Your added.


----------



## TC_Fenua

Sexy, Stonecold !


----------



## nagle3092

Stonecold you should take some pics with the side panel off.


----------



## coleweezy23

Hey can I be added? I've got the C14! I'll put new pics up tomorrow night.

Also, will there be a C14 club?


----------



## DEEBS808

Can I join.Here is my NH-D14 still waiting on parts.At first I didn't like the Noctua colors but I sure damn love them now.Might buy other fans for my case.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coleweezy23;14108038*
> Hey can I be added? I've got the C14! I'll put new pics up tomorrow night.
> 
> Also, will there be a C14 club?


Very nice, I love my C14. I dont think there is a need for a c14 club now that there is an all inclusive noctua club.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DEEBS808;14108307*
> Can I join.Here is my NH-D14 still waiting on parts.At first I didn't like the Noctua colors but I sure damn love them now.Might buy other fans for my case.


Of course you can join, Noctuas take a bit to grow on you but once they do you'll be buying alot of them









Both of you guys are added.


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;14108656*
> Very nice, I love my C14. I dont think there is a need for a c14 club now that there is an all inclusive noctua club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you can join, Noctuas take a bit to grow on you but once they do you'll be buying alot of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of you guys are added.


Thanks And i did grow on me.I want to see them perform but I doubt they will disappoint.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DEEBS808;14109053*
> Thanks And i did grow on me.I want to see them perform but I doubt they will disappoint.


Dont worry they dont


----------



## Fundah

I hate the color of noctua fans. I've heard good things about these fans but the color just doesn't cut it for me. If only they came in black...


----------



## makesithappen

Nice and ugly


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makesithappen;14128996*
> Nice and ugly


Beauty is in the eye of the beholder







added btw


----------



## makesithappen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nagle3092*


Beauty is in the eye of the beholder







added btw










Cheers









Considering it's a non modular power supply it's not too bad.

The ugly fans are growing on me and the brown blades kind of match the poo brown motherboard









Not sure If I should have mounted the vga holder though. Maybe I am restricting airflow?

Quick question;

The case I am using has a top exhaust, just curious if I should have moved it into the second slot for better airflow?

As in moved it to the right.

Room ambient is really cool.

Hard drives and graphics have gone up by few degrees from what I remember.

I've installed the silencer on the Noctua though and case fans are set to standard with 600 rpm low limit.


----------



## nagle3092

Your temps look good to me, you could try putting the top as intake so its feeding air directly into the heatsink.


----------



## ehume

Quote:



Originally Posted by *makesithappen*


Quick question;

The case I am using has a top exhaust, just curious if I should have moved it into the second slot for better airflow?


Here's my current airflow diagram, still a work in progress:










If I had your case, I'd do something similar, but better, since your case is a lot better than mine.


----------



## NKrader

+ nh-d14


----------



## EM2J

Sad day... Dropped my C14 on the floor and bent the crap out of the fins on one side... Straightened them out as best as I could with a tweezer but it's just not the same







Theres also a dent on the top







Only good news is those giant NF-P14s cover up the damage so it wont be seen when installed.

I'll post some pics when I get my camera back.


----------



## Steel_Rain

Can I please be added? I have the NH-U12P on my CPU.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NKrader*


+ nh-d14


Added









Quote:



Originally Posted by *EM2J*


Sad day... Dropped my C14 on the floor and bent the crap out of the fins on one side... Straightened them out as best as I could with a tweezer but it's just not the same







Theres also a dent on the top







Only good news is those giant NF-P14s cover up the damage so it wont be seen when installed.

I'll post some pics when I get my camera back.










That sucks man, hope it still works ok. Added BTW.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Steel_Rain*


Can I please be added? I have the NH-U12P on my CPU.


Of course you can, added


----------



## EM2J

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nagle3092*


Added
















That sucks man, hope it still works ok. Added BTW.

Of course you can, added










I don't think there's any serious damage so I think it'll perform the same Just kind of frustrating that it had to happen with such an expensive cooler.









and thanks for the add


----------



## Citra

When are the new products shown in the Computex 2011 video coming out?


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Citra*


When are the new products shown in the Computex 2011 video coming out?


I had emailed Jakob the PR Manager right after computex and he said around October-November for the fans. The heatsinks were all prototypes so he wouldnt give me any info as to which they are going to try to bring to the market.


----------



## Citra

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nagle3092*


I had emailed Jakob the PR Manager right after computex and he said around October-November for the fans. The heatsinks were all prototypes so he wouldnt give me any info as to which they are going to try to bring to the market.


Ok, thanks. Guess i'll just get the D14. Rep +


----------



## makesithappen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ehume*


Here's my current airflow diagram, still a work in progress:










If I had your case, I'd do something similar, but better, since your case is a lot better than mine.


I like that a lot.

See the top exhaust, should i move it over to the right?

After installing the cooler the cpu is obviously a lot cooler.

However, its fairly cold here at the moment 8-13 degrees outside not that much inside since I don't have a heater going inside the room, merely the door open and heat coming from lounge room.

My graphic cad will be around 20 degrees when i first turn the pc on, cpu about 23-26 hard drives around 18 degrees.
(Prior to installing cpu cooler graphic card would be around 22-23 even after gaming, the temp would drop quick)

Anyway cut a long story short.

After some gaming, nothing to heavy the cpu will drop to around 32 and stay there. Normally won't go over 30 if normal apps are used, chrome, msn etc.

Graphic card will go to about 50 and will take 5-10 minutes before I see a drop and will hang around 28 on idle.

Looking at your diagram appear to me that not enough heat is escaping fast enough specially since i have the vga holder installed.

Would you suggest taking of the vga holder and moving the exhaust fan to the right or just leaving as is and getting another exhaust to mount on top.

I would have to take out the whole motherboard right?

Really trying not to go that route as I hate opening the case all the time, only for dusting which isn't a huge problems considering the case has filters.

I hope my jibberish makes sense


----------



## ehume

Quote:



Originally Posted by *makesithappen*


I like that a lot.

See the top exhaust, should i move it over to the right?

After installing the cooler the cpu is obviously a lot cooler.

However, its fairly cold here at the moment 8-13 degrees outside not that much inside since I don't have a heater going inside the room, merely the door open and heat coming from lounge room.

My graphic cad will be around 20 degrees when i first turn the pc on, cpu about 23-26 hard drives around 18 degrees.
(Prior to installing cpu cooler graphic card would be around 22-23 even after gaming, the temp would drop quick)

Anyway cut a long story short.

After some gaming, nothing to heavy the cpu will drop to around 32 and stay there. Normally won't go over 30 if normal apps are used, chrome, msn etc.

Graphic card will go to about 50 and will take 5-10 minutes before I see a drop and will hang around 28 on idle.

Looking at your diagram appear to me that not enough heat is escaping fast enough specially since i have the vga holder installed.

Would you suggest taking of the vga holder and moving the exhaust fan to the right or just leaving as is and getting another exhaust to mount on top.

I would have to take out the whole motherboard right?

Really trying not to go that route as I hate opening the case all the time, only for dusting which isn't a huge problems considering the case has filters.

I hope my jibberish makes sense










I don't have a top exhaust, just top intake.

Be sure to remove your unused slot covers in the backplane. Also, if you go with a mid-case fan, make sure it is strong enough to feel air coming out the back (a problem I'm having with my current setup).

If necessary you can Velcro a fan on the outside of your case to pull more air through the backplane.

Or set your side fan to exhaust. Make sure you have a couple of bottom intakes if you do the side exhaust. Lots of possibilities. Experiment.


----------



## Tunagoblin

Hi. I just got NH-D14 4 days ago and.... I'm in love with this monster.
Got 10c drop compared to 212+ I had.
Wasn't expecting this much difference on air cooling.
I switched the 120mm fan to CM Blademaster fan.
Also used MX-4 as the TIM.

I wish the other "Noctua NH-D14" thread merges here or vice versa...
No need to have 2 different Noctua Fan clubs....


----------



## Citra

Oh yes. Add me.


----------



## nagle3092

Got both of you guys added


----------



## CodX

This is the only piece of Noctua I own, it's the CPU Heatsink/Fan as you see here, amazing for air cooling & I love it, despite the ugly fans that I plan on replacing.

Noctua NH-U12P

Noctua NH-U12P SE2 LGA1155/1156/1366 AM2/AM3 I7/I5/PHENOM Heatpipe Cooler W/ 2XNH-P12 120MM Fans


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CodX*


This is the only piece of Noctua I own, it's the CPU Heatsink/Fan as you see here, amazing for air cooling & I love it, despite the ugly fans that I plan on replacing.

Noctua NH-U12P

Noctua NH-U12P SE2 LGA1155/1156/1366 AM2/AM3 I7/I5/PHENOM Heatpipe Cooler W/ 2XNH-P12 120MM Fans


Your added


----------



## kieran13

I own a Noctua NH-U12P SE2 which is going to be mounted on my new i7 when it arrives.


----------



## nagle3092

Your added as well


----------



## ehume

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tunagoblin*


Hi. I just got NH-D14 4 days ago and.... I'm in love with this monster.
Got 10c drop compared to 212+ I had.
Wasn't expecting this much difference on air cooling.
I switched the 120mm fan to CM Blademaster fan.
Also used MX-4 as the TIM.

I wish the other "Noctua NH-D14" thread merges here or vice versa...
No need to have 2 different Noctua Fan clubs....


As you can see between your post and this one, there are more Noctua coolers than just the D14.


----------



## makesithappen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ehume*


I don't have a top exhaust, just top intake.

Be sure to remove your unused slot covers in the backplane. Also, if you go with a mid-case fan, make sure it is strong enough to feel air coming out the back (a problem I'm having with my current setup).

If necessary you can Velcro a fan on the outside of your case to pull more air through the backplane.

Or set your side fan to exhaust. Make sure you have a couple of bottom intakes if you do the side exhaust. Lots of possibilities. Experiment.


Don't want to add any extra fans then I need really. Unless needed of course.

Anyway i had a look around a bit and my top fan indeed is intake.

That explains the low low graphic card temperatures I was getting before.

Tiny intel cooler and a big fan pushing all that cold air from top and everything being exhausted out the back.

I even tried d/c the top fan but it actually increased temp further 2c.
(Now that I read it, it makes no sense to do it, but hey got to try everything to stabilise airflow)

Tried to flip the psu upside down, didn't help either.

Still haven't tried moving the top fan to the right as if that was the case i would probably just get another 1.

The more fans you add the more the airflow gets jammed I figure unless you even it out so the question is,

To go with 120 or 140 on the side panel, lower position directly opposite the graphic card, as intake or exhaust or to simply put another fan up top of the case as intake or exhaust?

Clearly the Noctua is doing a good job at pushing all that cpu heat out but now my insanely cool graphic card runs 5-6 degrees hotter dammit lol.

P.s the case is next to the window, as it is in my avatar.

Suggestions please...


----------



## ehume

Bottom intake. Then compare gpu temps between side panel intake vs side panel exhaust.


----------



## makesithappen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ehume*


Bottom intake. Then compare gpu temps between side panel intake vs side panel exhaust.


Only have 3 stock fans at the moment









Front: 140 mm intake

Rear: 120 mm exhaust

Top: 140 mm intake

120 mm and 140 mm on Noctua

So you suggest bottom 120 mm rather then side 120 mm or top 140 mm?

I have to purchase the fans and can't really experiment at this stage.

Preferably one fan only if that's enough?


----------



## makesithappen

This is the current airflow

Not 100% sure on Noctua middle fan but I'm pretty sure


----------



## smash_mouth01

Quote:



Originally Posted by *makesithappen*


This is the current airflow

Not 100% sure on Noctua middle fan but I'm pretty sure


The graphics card fans draw from floor and pop to the top. A way that I remember things.

your middle fan should draw from the front through to the back.

If your running the top as induction you should move it from the rear top to the one closest to the Optical drives, So then it dumps fresh air strait to the first 120mm fan.


----------



## makesithappen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smash_mouth01*


The graphics card fans draw from floor and pop to the top. A way that I remember things.

you middle fan should draw from the front through to the back.

If your running the top as induction you should move it from the rear top to the one closest to the Optical drives, So then it dumps fresh air strait to the first 120mm fan.


Exactly what I was looking for 









Not too sure, I just drew the arrows as I saw on graphic card, my bad on that.

Will try move the top fan see if it makes difference.


----------



## smash_mouth01

It won't make a ground breaking difference, but you will see it. But once you try for those high overclocks (which you might not) every degree counts.


----------



## animal0307

Well I might as well make my 7 fans official. Got to do some work on my case this weekend.


----------



## nagle3092

Looks pretty nice so far, how much longer till your finished?


----------



## animal0307

Hoping to be done before I back to school sometime in August. Hopefully not too long. I don't think I will get real motivated again until I get news from my friends father about powder coating.


----------



## NKrader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;14194357*
> Hoping to be done before I back to school sometime in August. Hopefully not too long. I don't think I will get real motivated again until I get news from my friends father about powder coating.


news?
even with a normal powdercoater should only cost like 50-60$

DO IT!


----------



## OCeaN

Can I join? Noctua NH-U12P SE2


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCeaN;14229637*
> Can I join? Noctua NH-U12P SE2


Sure thing man. I'll get you on the list in the morning.


----------



## Phantom_Dave

Sign me up. NH-C14.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantom_Dave;14234450*
> Sign me up. NH-C14.


Np, you and OCeaN are added


----------



## NKrader

change mine sold one and such.

2x 140mm
1x D-14 - with 140+120


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NKrader;14237072*
> change mine sold one and such.
> 
> 2x 140mm
> 1x D-14 - with 140+120


Ok your fixed, 3 140s and a 120 now.


----------



## Elektronik

I like Noctua very much. Perfect fans and coolers. Wait for their new products.
I have NF-P12 and NF-B9.
Please, add me.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elektronik;14246754*
> I like Noctua very much. Perfect fans and coolers. Wait for their new products.
> I have NF-P12 and NF-B9.
> Please, add me.


Your added


----------



## patricksiglin

I went from a Hydro H50 to a NH-C14. The C14 does a way better job at cooling and its very quiet.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patricksiglin;14253238*
> I went from a Hydro H50 to a NH-C14. The C14 does a way better job at cooling and its very quiet.


It is a very nice heatsink, love mine. Now that I am getting a bigger case though I'm tempted to try out the D14.
Got you added BTW


----------



## makesithappen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smash_mouth01;14189474*
> It won't make a ground breaking difference, but you will see it. But once you try for those high overclocks (which you might not) every degree counts.


Every degree already counts









I am a freak lol









Overclocking will be happening just not yet.

Really don't need to at the moment.

I just like to keep my parts nice and cool makes them last longer.

On topic i took off the VGA holder and my temperatures are back to normal
20 degree ambient about 24 on the card.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makesithappen;14254650*
> Every degree already counts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am a freak lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overclocking will be happening just not yet.
> 
> Really don't need to at the moment.
> 
> I just like to keep my parts nice and cool makes them last longer.
> 
> On topic i took off the VGA holder and my temperatures are back to normal
> 20 degree ambient about 24 on the card.


Wow, I wouldnt think the holder to restrict that much air. Guess my assumptions were wrong.


----------



## makesithappen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;14254976*
> Wow, I wouldnt think the holder to restrict that much air. Guess my assumptions were wrong.


I didn't think so either.. but with d14 in case there's already limited space
Removing it definitively took few degrees off but just doesn't look as nice now meh

Functionality over looks ftw


----------



## Phantom_Dave

Well, I got my C14 installed and running today. I also love how it completely covers my ram to help cool it too. But I notice that it vibrates a lot at 1250 rpm (even with the optional support bracket).

What do some of you other C14 users do about this? Do you run them at 600 rpm? Does it have a big impact on cooling? Also, what kind of idle temperatures do you get on the i7 (or maybe even i5)?










I haven't gotten to the video cards yet.


----------



## Bobicon

Has anyone tried any AP-15's on the NH-C14, how is it compared to the NH-C14's stock 140mm fans?


----------



## animal0307

Mine vibrates pretty bad too. I can feel it through the entire case. I can't hear any rattling. So I think I may have a fan that's off balance.


----------



## Phantom_Dave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;14275687*
> Mine vibrates pretty bad too. I can feel it through the entire case. I can't hear any rattling. So I think I may have a fan that's off balance.


Same here. I can't hear a thing, but I can feel it when I touch my case. On a review of the C14 they had it too, but said it went away at 600 rpm vs. the normal 1250 rpm.


----------



## Bobicon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Phantom_Dave*


Same here. I can't hear a thing, but I can feel it when I touch my case. On a review of the C14 they had it too, but said it went away at 600 rpm vs. the normal 1250 rpm.


Mine goes away at 900 RPM, but I think some AP-15 would be better than a 900 RPM 140mm fan, but I don't know.


----------



## nagle3092

Do you guys have the support bar insalled?


----------



## Phantom_Dave

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nagle3092*


Do you guys have the support bar insalled?


Sure do.


----------



## Bobicon

As do I.

But it isn't the bottom fan that is the problem which the support bar is helping, it is the top fan that is causing all the vibrations.


----------



## animal0307

My support bar is installed.


----------



## nagle3092

Hmm, mine dont vibrate that bad. I can feel it if I put my hand on it thats about it though. That being said since I just got my new case today I think I might end up getting a different heatsink. I'm thinking about the HR-02 since I dont really need any fans in this thing.


----------



## Phantom_Dave

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nagle3092*


Hmm, mine dont vibrate that bad. I can feel it if I put my hand on it thats about it though. That being said since I just got my new case today I think I might end up getting a different heatsink. I'm thinking about the HR-02 since I dont really need any fans in this thing.


I was just curious what others have done and what results they got.

In that review I read, when they went from 1250 rpm to 600 rpm the vibration stopped. But they only gained 2 degrees celcius. Which doesn't sound too bad.

I'll probably try 900 rpm first though.


----------



## Bobicon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Phantom_Dave*


I was just curious what others have done and what results they got.

In that review I read, when they went from 1250 rpm to 600 rpm the vibration stopped. But they only gained 2 degrees celcius. Which doesn't sound too bad.


When I have my 900 RPM adaptor on it goes up to 37C from 35C under load, so I expect it would go up around 5C to 40C underload for me anyways.


----------



## animal0307

Mine are at full load. Never run them at anything slower so I'm not sure if mine stops or not.


----------



## Jaguarbamf

I've had my Noctua NH-D14 for about 8 months now. I traded an H70 for it + cash! =D

Same performance, no liquid in my system to worry about, less noise, and I saved some cash.

I'll post some pictures if I can find a way to get my phone to upload pictures. =P


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaguarbamf;14276012*
> I've had my Noctua NH-D14 for about 8 months now. I traded an H70 for it + cash! =D
> 
> Same performance, no liquid in my system to worry about, less noise, and I saved some cash.
> 
> I'll post some pictures if I can find a way to get my phone to upload pictures. =P


Good deal man, got you added


----------



## Jaguarbamf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;14276072*
> Good deal man, got you added


Thanks. =]

I'm looking forward to putting the NH-D14 back into my PC. I'm currently using the stock cooling to test some things out. It actually works very well, which surprised me. lol

I dislike the noise of the stock i5 2500k HSF. Even at idle, it's the loudest thing inside my system.


----------



## Eric Barney

My previous computer was water cooled. This one has a NH-U12P. No noise, no hassle, cools better. Sign me up as a very happy Noctua owner.


----------



## LA_Kings_Fan

*Can I play ? Noctua NH-U9B SE2 & fans.*


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eric Barney;14276190*
> My previous computer was water cooled. This one has a NH-U12P. No noise, no hassle, cools better. Sign me up as a very happy Noctua owner.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LA_Kings_Fan;14298237*
> *Can I play ? Noctua NH-U9B SE2 & fans.*


Got both of you guys added


----------



## Phantom_Dave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;14275687*
> Mine vibrates pretty bad too. I can feel it through the entire case. I can't hear any rattling. So I think I may have a fan that's off balance.


I contacted Noctua CS about this issue with the C14. They asked me to try putting the top fan on the bottom. So I did that and also completely removed and reinstalled the entire unit to make sure everything was as tight as I was willing to make it without risking breakage.

The vibration has dulled somewhat, but it's still there. So I emailed them back with some pics and more information. Now I'm waiting to hear back from them again. I'll post up whatever happens. I don't like this vibration.

I'm thinking worst case I'll just reduce the rpm on the top fan only. I'm also going to have a 200mm fan on the side case panel like 3/4" above the C14 blowing directly on it and my GPUs. So I can probably get away with reduced rpm on the top fan without much, if any, noticeable loss in cooling. I'll find out when I get the rest of my fans which I ordered yesterday.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantom_Dave;14300108*
> I contacted Noctua CS about this issue with the C14. They asked me to try putting the top fan on the bottom. So I did that and also completely removed and reinstalled the entire unit to make sure everything was as tight as I was willing to make it without risking breakage.
> 
> The vibration has dulled somewhat, but it's still there. So I emailed them back with some pics and more information. Now I'm waiting to hear back from them again. I'll post up whatever happens. I don't like this vibration.
> 
> I'm thinking worst case I'll just reduce the rpm on the top fan only. I'm also going to have a 200mm fan on the side case panel like 3/4" above the C14 blowing directly on it and my GPUs. So I can probably get away with reduced rpm on the top fan without much, if any, noticeable loss in cooling. I'll find out when I get the rest of my fans which I ordered yesterday.


Unless you have a really high oc you wont need the fans that high, I run mine with the 7v adapters and with my 4.5 oc I max out at 61c on prime95.


----------



## Phantom_Dave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;14300639*
> Unless you have a really high oc you wont need the fans that high, I run mine with the 7v adapters and with my 4.5 oc I max out at 61c on prime95.


That's good to know. I have no idea what temperatures I'm looking at yet since this build isn't finished. I've only seen the idle temps in the bios. Right now it idles at ~30c according to the bios. All I'm really missing is my GPUs and monitors (except for stuff already ordered which hasn't arrived yet). I'll be ordering one of each next Friday. Then I'll install the OS and actually be able to start getting into the nitty gritty.

I don't know how high I'll OC yet. But 4.5GHz is probably a maximum goal for me for 24/7 gaming operation. I'd probably even be happy at 4.2GHz.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantom_Dave;14300751*
> That's good to know. I have no idea what temperatures I'm looking at yet since this build isn't finished. I've only seen the idle temps in the bios. Right now it idles at ~30c according to the bios. All I'm really missing is my GPUs and monitors (except for stuff already ordered which hasn't arrived yet). I'll be ordering one of each next Friday. Then I'll install the OS and actually be able to start getting into the nitty gritty.
> 
> I don't know how high I'll OC yet. But 4.5GHz is probably a maximum goal for me for 24/7 gaming operation. I'd probably even be happy at 4.2GHz.


There really isnt much more of a reason to go higher than that unless your benching. Most chips I seen can do it around 1.3ish and after that there is a substantial amount of voltage needed for every multi after. I can do 4.8 at 1.4 volts but it doesnt seem worth it to me.


----------



## Anton338

I love Noctua. Its probably my favorite CPU cooling solution brand.
I've had my NH-U12P SE2 since October of 2010 and its never let me down.










Ive had my i7-860 overclocked at 3.5 in the summer and 3.8 in the winter.
I love my temperatures!! This cooler maintains an idle 36-38 and a peak of aprox 65-70.










I recently bought more RAM for my P55A-UD3 motherboard and I was really worried about clearance between my fans and the dimms.










Check out how close of a call that was!!










I've also used nothing but Noctua NT-H1 thermal compound and its extremely easy to work with and it performs great :]

THANKS NOCTUA!


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anton338;14300998*
> I love Noctua. Its probably my favorite CPU cooling solution brand.
> I've had my NH-U12P SE2 since October of 2010 and its never let me down.
> 
> Ive had my i7-860 overclocked at 3.5 in the summer and 3.8 in the winter.
> I love my temperatures!! This cooler maintains an idle 36-38 and a peak of aprox 65-70.
> 
> I recently bought more RAM for my P55A-UD3 motherboard and I was really worried about clearance between my fans and the dimms.
> 
> Check out how close of a call that was!!
> 
> I've also used nothing but Noctua NT-H1 thermal compound and its extremely easy to work with and it performs great :]
> 
> THANKS NOCTUA!


Your added


----------



## Phantom_Dave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anton338;14300998*
> I recently bought more RAM for my P55A-UD3 motherboard and I was really worried about clearance between my fans and the dimms.
> 
> Check out how close of a call that was!!


I know, right?










Probably not quite as close as you, but still had me worried. My Ripjaws are supposed to be 40mm and the clearance of the C14 is supposed to be 38mm... obviously one of the two was wrong. I have a good 5mm in there. But at least I don't have to worry about a ram cooler.









Ignore the date, that was actually taken today. Batteries have been dead in the camera for a while.










That's a temporary OLD vid card in the only PCI slot. I just needed a way to hook up a monitor to get into the bios until my GPUs get here. The only other vid card I had laying around was an AGP and there's no slot for that.


----------



## Fortunex

I've got a NF-S12B FLX, NF-P14 FLX, and NF-P12.

Haven't put the P12 on yet, just got it today. Here's a pic:


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantom_Dave;14301292*
> I know, right?
> 
> Probably not quite as close as you, but still had me worried. My Ripjaws are supposed to be 40mm and the clearance of the C14 is supposed to be 38mm... obviously one of the two was wrong. I have a good 5mm in there. But at least I don't have to worry about a ram cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore the date, that was actually taken today. Batteries have been dead in the camera for a while.
> 
> That's a temporary OLD vid card in the only PCI slot. I just needed a way to hook up a monitor to get into the bios until my GPUs get here. The only other vid card I had laying around was an AGP and there's no slot for that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fortunex;14301593*
> I've got a NF-S12B FLX, NF-P14 FLX, and NF-P12.
> 
> Haven't put the P12 on yet, just got it today. Here's a pic:


Added both of you guys


----------



## Phantom_Dave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;14301984*
> Added both of you guys


You already had me. Now you have me twice.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantom_Dave;14303981*
> You already had me. Now you have me twice.


Damn didn't see you, I'll fix it in the morning.


----------



## Phantom_Dave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantom_Dave;14300108*
> I contacted Noctua CS about this issue with the C14. They asked me to try putting the top fan on the bottom. So I did that and also completely removed and reinstalled the entire unit to make sure everything was as tight as I was willing to make it without risking breakage.
> 
> The vibration has dulled somewhat, but it's still there. So I emailed them back with some pics and more information. Now I'm waiting to hear back from them again. I'll post up whatever happens. I don't like this vibration.
> 
> I'm thinking worst case I'll just reduce the rpm on the top fan only. I'm also going to have a 200mm fan on the side case panel like 3/4" above the C14 blowing directly on it and my GPUs. So I can probably get away with reduced rpm on the top fan without much, if any, noticeable loss in cooling. I'll find out when I get the rest of my fans which I ordered yesterday.


They are shipping me a new fan. Delivery is expected within 5-10 business days. I have to wait and see if that helps or not. Otherwise I'll be dropping the rpms.


----------



## Nelson2011

My nh-d14 came in today


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nelson2011;14313467*
> My nh-d14 came in today


Your added


----------



## Dirge Tael

Loyal and overly addicted... Add me... NH-D14 + 5x NF-P12 + 2x NF-P14 FLX


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirge Tael*


Loyal and overly addicted... Add me... NH-D14 + 5x NF-P12 + 2x NF-P14 FLX


Nice, your added


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirge Tael;14314334*
> Loyal and overly addicted...


I wish to claim this title too. Noctua themed sleeving. This is just my practice piece. 12V rail on PCI E power lead. There will be more to come.


----------



## TC_Fenua

I love your new case Nagle3092







I saw the pictures in the Club thread, very nice !


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TC_Fenua*


I love your new case Nagle3092







I saw the pictures in the Club thread, very nice !


Thanks, due to the upgrade though I have 3 NF-P12s sitting in their boxes gathering dust so I'm going to put them up for sale here soon. I want to get some more pics of it but I have been lazy on getting to it.


----------



## Dirge Tael

Animal, all I can say is that is looking rather wicked.


----------



## ledzeppie

Add me please =)


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ledzeppie*


Add me please =)











Nice rig! Are those P12s or P12 FLXs?

Edit: Just seen we got *[Official]* Status!


----------



## marduke83

I'll join in. Purchased the first component of my new build today (well yesterday now as it's now 2am here in australia.. haha). A lovely NH-U12P SE2. Spent literally hours researching coolers in it's pricerange and decided the U12P was the best choice.







Hopefully should have the rig completed in the coming weeks, just waiting on my tax return to come in. Will post some pics up then.


----------



## Tator Tot

Tator Tot prowls all threads, and marks them official when they seem really beast (and also meet other criteria







)



















I still don't like Noctua fans though.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marduke83;14339465*
> I'll join in. Purchased the first component of my new build today (well yesterday now as it's now 2am here in australia.. haha). A lovely NH-U12P SE2. Spent literally hours researching coolers in it's pricerange and decided the U12P was the best choice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully should have the rig completed in the coming weeks, just waiting on my tax return to come in. Will post some pics up then.


Added you:thumb:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;14341160*
> Tator Tot prowls all threads, and marks them official when they seem really beast (and also meet other criteria
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still don't like Noctua fans though.


Haha thats ok, people have their preferences. I like them, and will continue to use them. Now that doesnt mean I wont use other products either, I got some TY-140s coming in that Im going to test on my C14. Also debating on getting an HR02. I'm waiting on the new Noctua fans coming in October (hopefully).

Thanks for the [Official] status though.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nagle3092*


Added you









Haha thats ok, people have their preferences. I like them, and will continue to use them. Now that doesnt mean I wont use other products either, I got some TY-140s coming in that Im going to test on my C14. Also debating on getting an HR02. I'm waiting on the new Noctua fans coming in October (hopefully).

Thanks for the [Official] status though.










Gentle Typhoons & Thermalright TY-140's (as well as Scythe S-Flex & Thermalright FDB's) have my heart right now.

Or Yates.

I'm eagerly awaiting the new Noctua fans though.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


Gentle Typhoons & Thermalright TY-140's (as well as Scythe S-Flex & Thermalright FDB's) have my heart right now.

Or Yates.

I'm eagerly awaiting the new Noctua fans though.


I wont buy sleeve bearing fans, so my options are limited(besides the obvious intake on my new case, trust me I dont like the thought of it). I got some GT's though I didn't care for them much. I found the 15s to be a tad loud but I do like the 92mm versions. They make for great gpu ducts when paired with a shroud.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nagle3092*


I wont buy sleeve bearing fans, so my options are limited(besides the obvious intake on my new case, trust me I dont like the thought of it). I got some GT's though I didn't care for them much. I found the 15s to be a tad loud but I do like the 92mm versions. They make for great gpu ducts when paired with a shroud.


AP-14's are my personal favorite. 21dB(A) is perfect for most applications (when you're looking for silencer.)

Though I run AP-15's on a fan controller and I have some "AP-16's" (2150 models) coming in from the group buy. Mostly just for the performance aspect. (I keep all of my fans turned down most of the time.)

And Noctua's SSO bearing is just an advanced version of the sleeve bearing. Technically it's not even a "closed oil shaft" (since it's not permanently sealed.) They put a lot of marketing behind it as well.

Personally though, I'd love to have a large test sample (50 of earch) of some ADDA FDB fans (Scythe / Thermalright), Nidec Servo GT's, Noctua's SSO Fans, Yates, (and a varriation of other bearings) 
Just so I could measure them all, and then let them run for 50,000 Hours in a 40*C environment to see how they really hold up.

Unfortunately though, by the time testing is done, a whole new wave of fans (better or with more features) will be out. 
Since 50k Hours = ~ 5 Years & 8 months.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;14342304*
> AP-14's are my personal favorite. 21dB(A) is perfect for most applications (when you're looking for silencer.)
> 
> Though I run AP-15's on a fan controller and I have some "AP-16's" (2150 models) coming in from the group buy. Mostly just for the performance aspect. (I keep all of my fans turned down most of the time.)
> 
> And Noctua's SSO bearing is just an advanced version of the sleeve bearing. Technically it's not even a "closed oil shaft" (since it's not permanently sealed.) They put a lot of marketing behind it as well.
> 
> Personally though, I'd love to have a large test sample (50 of earch) of some ADDA FDB fans (Scythe / Thermalright), Nidec Servo GT's, Noctua's SSO Fans, Yates, (and a varriation of other bearings)
> Just so I could measure them all, and then let them run for 50,000 Hours in a 40*C environment to see how they really hold up.
> 
> Unfortunately though, by the time testing is done, a whole new wave of fans (better or with more features) will be out.
> Since 50k Hours = ~ 5 Years & 8 months.


I need to get a fan controller, I always seem to buy something else though whenever I get the money to get some pc stuff. I have my eye set on a Lamptron FC5v2 at the moment. I like how it actually gives a voltage readout and looks decent.

I didnt know that about the SSO bearing, it must be good enough to stamp a 6 year warranty on it though. I cant think of any brands off the top of my head that have a similar warranty besides Noiseblocker. They also have the customer service to match an awesome warranty which is another reason I buy their products.

I'm slowly growing a nice combo of fans, its one of those things that are cheap enough to buy them whenever. You can never have to much air flow







, ok I'll stop rambling now...


----------



## Tator Tot

Oh yeah, the 6 Year warranty is definitely a moment of "







"

Noiseblocker has 6 year warranty; Arctic Cooling does as well. Though they lie about their bearing (it's a closed oil shaft rifle bearing, not a FDB bearing.)

There's 2 other companies that hold long warranties as well. I think Enermax is one... I can't remember for sure on that one though.

Most other companies just have a 1 year warranty on fans because they don't make them or design them for the most part.

Thermaltake is out of the norm and has a 3 year warranty on Coolers & Fans which is always nice.


----------



## Kyronn94

I'm Interested in getting a Noctua CPU Cooler, as I have little hope of overclocking with my current Arctic Freezer 7.
I figured this was the best place to ask some questions









I' thinking along the lines of either the NH-C14 or the NH-C12p SE14, as they'll cool other components a bit better.
Is it worth spending Â£10-15 (~$15-25) more to get the C14?

Some reviews say that the C12p SE14 can't cope with overclocks very well.








What would be the best for my Phenom II x4 955?

Thanks


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyronn94;14354728*
> I'm Interested in getting a Noctua CPU Cooler, as I have little hope of overclocking with my current Arctic Freezer 7.
> I figured this was the best place to ask some questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I' thinking along the lines of either the NH-C14 or the NH-C12p SE14, as they'll cool other components a bit better.
> Is it worth spending £10-15 (~$15-25) more to get the C14?
> 
> Some reviews say that the C12p SE14 can't cope with overclocks very well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would be the best for my Phenom II x4 955?
> 
> Thanks


Most reviews I've seen put the C12P just barely ahead of the U9B so I would suggest getting the C14. There was a 10c difference for me in load temps going from a U9B to a C14.


----------



## ehume

Newest TIM review that includes NT-H1, at Skinnee Labs.

It does pretty well . . .

. . . and there is a "curing factor." The tests ended at 10 hours, while NT-H1 was still improving. Who knows how good it will get with enough time?


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ehume*


Newest TIM review that includes NT-H1, at Skinnee Labs.

It does pretty well . . .

. . . and there is a "curing factor." The tests ended at 10 hours, while NT-H1 was still improving. Who knows how good it will get with enough time?


Nice review, good to see that NT-H1 holds up very well apparently. It didnt improve much with great contact but it seems like you can apply it almost any way you want and it will still perform decently.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;14374374*
> Nice review, good to see that NT-H1 holds up very well apparently. It didnt improve much with great contact but it seems like you can apply it almost any way you want and it will still perform decently.


I was surprised to see MX-2 hold up so well; as it's the only paste you can buy in bulk. (30G tubes)


----------



## Oniichan~

*Noctua NH-U12P SE2
*


----------



## shapiq

Me: Nhu12p-se2


----------



## Kyronn94

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nagle3092*


Most reviews I've seen put the C12P just barely ahead of the U9B so I would suggest getting the C14. There was a 10c difference for me in load temps going from a U9B to a C14.


That's quite a big difference.
Looks like I'll be going with the C14 then








Now I just need a pay day!


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Oniichan~*


*Noctua NH-U12P SE2
*












Quote:



Originally Posted by *shapiq*


Me: Nhu12p-se2


Got both of you guys added


----------



## Phantom_Dave

For anyone who has been having vibration issues with the C14; I contacted Noctua tech support about two weeks ago. After following their instructions it was determined that I had a fan with bad bearings. They sent me a new fan. I installed the new fan on the top and put the best original fan on the bottom.

Now I am running at full speed with no vibrations at all. I also noticed ~8 degree celcius drop in temperature during my Prime95 stress test @4.5 Ghz vs. running my fans at 750 rpm.

Side note: They must have cherry picked the fan they sent me because it's completely perfect in balance too. I get no heatsink movement at all even when it first starts up. But even the best of my 2 original fans caused some movement during spin up when it was on the top.


----------



## animal0307

Well then. Noctua isn't going to be happy with me. I think 2-3 of my P14's are bad.


----------



## Phantom_Dave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;14486437*
> Well then. Noctua isn't going to be happy with me. I think 2-3 of my P14's are bad.


LOL! Just be adamant. They suggested to me to use the ULNA adapter or only run the bottom fan at first. I told them that I wanted to run at full speed for OC and that if I only wanted 1 fan I'd have gotten the C-style cooler that only came with 1 fan. They replied by sending me my new fan.









I'm still supposed to take a pic of my old fan. I'm supposed to break the blade on it and take the pic instead of returning it.


----------



## animal0307

You going to do it? If you have problem in the future thy may not help you if you don't.


----------



## Phantom_Dave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;14486774*
> You going to do it? If you have problem in the future thy may not help you if you don't.


Yeah, I just haven't gotten to it yet. I wanted to be sure that the new fan wasn't worse before I broke my other fan.


----------



## animal0307

Valid point.


----------



## mironccr345

x4 NF-P12









NH-U9B SE2


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345;14490711*
> x4 NF-P12
> snip
> NH-U9B SE2
> snip


Ok your added


----------



## animal0307

More sexy Noctua theme sleeving.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:



Originally Posted by *animal0307*


More sexy Noctua theme sleeving.











Nice Job!


----------



## reddevil1111

add me please. The Noctua fans on my CPU cooler are so quiet I wondered if they were on! Very nice!


----------



## coleweezy23

hey i'm already in the club but i just wanted to post some pictures i took earlier this morning of my c14.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coleweezy23;14616591*
> hey i'm already in the club but i just wanted to post some pictures i took earlier this morning of my c14.


Nice rig! The red lights really make that noctua fan PoP!


----------



## coleweezy23

thanks a lot, i used a logisys red led stick at the bottom and three led cooler master fans, then a regular cooler master fan on the side panel.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reddevil1111;14615211*
> add me please. The Noctua fans on my CPU cooler are so quiet I wondered if they were on! Very nice!


Your added









Nice rig Coleweezy23!


----------



## SecretAgentMan

Hi guys, how you all doing? This is my first post on these forums, and I was kinda hoping someone here might be able to answer a question I have regarding clearance?

I'm teetering on the edge of buying the Noctua NH-C14 CPU heat sink, however, being the monster that Noctua heat sinks are, I'm not entirely sure whether or not it will fit within my tower. I will post my PC specs and if someone could please tell me whether or not it'll fit that would be much appreciated! =)

Computer specs:

- ASUS VENTO TA-M2 Chassis
(image link:http://www.hitechreview.com/uploads/2009/04/asus-vento-ta-m2-chassis.jpg)

- CPU QuadCore Intel Core i7-960, 3333 MHz (25 x 133) socket: LGA 1366

- Mobo Asus P6X58D Premium (2 PCI, 1 PCI-E x1, 3 PCI-E x16, 6 DDR3 DIMM, Audio, Dual Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)

- RAM x4 G Skill F3-10600CL9-2GBNT 2 GB DDR3-1333 DDR3 SDRAM (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-20 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-17 @ 457 MHz)

- Video AdapterATI Radeon HD 5800 Series (1024 MB)

* I hope I have posted all the relevant information required for you to be able to answer my query. I really appreciate the time taken to answer this, as I am pretty keen to buy this heat sink... I just wanna be sure prior to the purchase that I'll be able to use it









Cheers fellars,

SAM


----------



## nagle3092

I couldn't find anything on heatsink height but the C14 fit in my A04 and TJ08-E so I'll pretty confident that it would fit in that Asus.

Edit: And welcome to OCN!


----------



## reddevil1111

I have a d-14 and it runs sideways (fans front to back so its wider than the c-14 I belive. Overall depth from the motherboard to end of fan/heatsink is 6 and a half inches. (just in case you opt for that fan)-dan


----------



## animal0307

Have you given the compatibility list a lookiesy?


----------



## Phantom_Dave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SecretAgentMan;14621203*
> Hi guys, how you all doing? This is my first post on these forums, and I was kinda hoping someone here might be able to answer a question I have regarding clearance?
> 
> I'm teetering on the edge of buying the Noctua NH-C14 CPU heat sink, however, being the monster that Noctua heat sinks are, I'm not entirely sure whether or not it will fit within my tower. I will post my PC specs and if someone could please tell me whether or not it'll fit that would be much appreciated! =)
> 
> Computer specs:
> 
> - ASUS VENTO TA-M2 Chassis
> (image link:http://www.hitechreview.com/uploads/2009/04/asus-vento-ta-m2-chassis.jpg)
> 
> - CPU QuadCore Intel Core i7-960, 3333 MHz (25 x 133) socket: LGA 1366
> 
> - Mobo Asus P6X58D Premium (2 PCI, 1 PCI-E x1, 3 PCI-E x16, 6 DDR3 DIMM, Audio, Dual Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)
> 
> - RAM x4 G Skill F3-10600CL9-2GBNT 2 GB DDR3-1333 DDR3 SDRAM (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-20 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-17 @ 457 MHz)
> 
> - Video Adapter ATI Radeon HD 5800 Series (1024 MB)
> 
> * I hope I have posted all the relevant information required for you to be able to answer my query. I really appreciate the time taken to answer this, as I am pretty keen to buy this heat sink... I just wanna be sure prior to the purchase that I'll be able to use it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers fellars,
> 
> SAM


It will fit in your case if it's a full tower. It's not as tall as most tower coolers. It fit in my Phantom with the side panel fan installed, with a filter, and still has about 3/4" to spare. Worst case you can remove the top fan, but I seriously doubt it will be an issue.

It will also clear your G Skill RAM, but it will likely be over the top of it. That just means it will also help keep your RAM cool.


----------



## SecretAgentMan

Thanks for your responses everyone









Wow that's some serious fan cooling in the most recent images posted, that would definitely be an awesome setup to have. I'm under the impression once I get the Noctua, I'll have adequate cooling for my system? At the moment I'm just running 4 stock fans and my heat readings are concerning to say the least - hence the Noctua purchase.

Thanks again for laying my fears to rest regarding the Noctua not fitting in to my tower, and for the quick reply I'm pretty chuffed. I do have a full tower (5 front bays) so I think I should be golden. I'm finding I'm actually developing a pretty keen interest in this whole cooling system/pc maintenance thing as I research more in to it - who would have thought









If anyone has anything to add regarding additional cooling/maintenance options I'd certainly be interested to hear them.

Stay cool guys ^^

Edit: Phantom Dave - I noticed you mentioned you had a filter installed... I've yet to come across any mention of those in my online investigations... anything to minimize dust intake would be awesome. What kind of filter do you use?


----------



## Phantom_Dave

The filters came with my case. The only fans/filters that will fit my case without modification are NZXT fans since they have custom sized fans and therefore have custom spaced mounting holes. But their fans are quiet and work fine, so no complaints about that really.


----------



## Tator Tot

Only the "200mm" fans from NZXT have custom spacing. (Spacing is like 192mm IIRC)

The 120mm & 140mm fans are all just standard hole spacing.


----------



## Spicy61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;14573170*
> More sexy Noctua theme sleeving.


Very unique, nice job sir on the sleeves.


----------



## King Who Dat

nh-c14 here. triple fan stack facing downwards toward cpu. 4.8ghz 2600k max temp 64 under full load.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielwiley;14846681*
> nh-c14 here. triple fan stack facing downwards toward cpu. 4.8ghz 2600k max temp 64 under full load.


Ok, your added man


----------



## Mightylobo

Let me in








http://i.imgur.com/xSYEd.jpg

NH-D14 with two P12 and one P14


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielwiley;14846681*
> nh-c14 here. triple fan stack facing downwards toward cpu. 4.8ghz 2600k max temp 64 under full load.


i gotta see this triplestack. you got picks?


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mightylobo;14847249*
> Let me in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/xSYEd.jpg
> 
> NH-D14 with two P12 and one P14


Added








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;14847438*
> i gotta see this triplestack. you got picks?


I think it is involving the side panel fan on the case (by looking at his sig).


----------



## Kyronn94

Sign me up with my C14








Also just ordered some NF-P14 FLX's









Is it worth adding a further side panel fan with the C14?


----------



## King Who Dat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;14848266*
> Added
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is involving the side panel fan on the case (by looking at his sig).


2 x 140's on top, the 140 on bottom. Yeah there's a 200mm outside blowing on all of em as well. I wasn't talking about that though. I'll get some pics up soon.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


----------



## -Id-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mightylobo;14847249*
> Let me in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/xSYEd.jpg
> 
> NH-D14 with two P12 and one P14


Did the extra fan improve temps?


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyronn94;14900933*
> Sign me up with my C14
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also just ordered some NF-P14 FLX's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it worth adding a further side panel fan with the C14?


Your added, sorry for the delay


----------



## King Who Dat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;14847438*
> i gotta see this triplestack. you got picks?


here is my cpu cooling setup. there is an external 200mm fan on my case door that blows right on these puppies too. I've run some benches using setups similar to mine in comparison to other coolers, and it consistently beats them all. d14, silver arrow, megahalems, h80. the 3rd fan dropped me down 3/4 degrees.

I do have very low ambient temps though, to be fair. Of course I got the c14 to save space, any bigger and I may as well have gotten the d14.


----------



## animal0307

Well I'll be... That is impressive. I may have to barrow you idea for my C14.


----------



## ehume

I'll have to try stacking a p14. When I stacked other fans the throughput went down, not up.


----------



## mironccr345

@danielwiley That looks beast! Good job bro!


----------



## MarvinDessica

Are they ever planning on making a 200mm fan?


----------



## animal0307

I would love a 200mm. But I would really love to see some PWM fans. I need 2 120mm PWN fans for my Setsugen Gpu Heatsink.


----------



## animal0307

Call me crazy.... But.... I got a couple more p14's and 3x P12's. I'm gonna give Daniel's triple stack a shot. One of p12's will be exhaust in the back of my case. I think I may give the other two a shot on my H50.


----------



## corhen

add me! 









2xNF-P 12 for my radiator/HDD bay, 
2xNF-S 12B for pumping air through my case!

i know, i know, no OCN username.. but just TRY to find a white floor that dirty somewhere else!


----------



## Ironcobra

Im in the market for 5 new fans plus a cpu cooler, gonna grab the new hyper 212evo when it comes out next week, but for the rest of my setup i need 3 case fans and 2 for the evo. Now i have room for 4 140mm fans and 1 120mm, question is should i just go all 120mm are they better then the 140mm's? And what are the differences between the different models of 120 fans noctua has there is at least 3 different ones i see, 3 will be case and 2 cpu cooler, any recommendations silence is preferred but have 2 6950's and an i5 to keep cool in my lian li custom v1200. Thanks


----------



## animal0307

I got a strange request. Anyone here have a P14 replaced and not throw away the defective one? I need couple of frames for a mod I'm planning. I need to take my case to work one of these days and I don't want to risk two working fans in a metal shop. I would also feel terrible if I destroyed 2 fans that I could have easily avoided doing and then asking for replacements.


----------



## Mr.Eiht

Just I case you didn`t reead it my imy original thread:
Noctua send me an e-mail that they *will release a new cooler in Q4*.
So behold and watch out.

And as a true Noctua fanboy you should be excited


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corhen;15022756*
> add me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2xNF-P 12 for my radiator/HDD bay,
> 2xNF-S 12B for pumping air through my case!
> 
> i know, i know, no OCN username.. but just TRY to find a white floor that dirty somewhere else!


Your added:thumb: sorry for the delay, I started working graveyard so I dont spend as much time as I would like on OCN anymore.


----------



## Eric Barney

Maybe not me.... But definately keeping my computer cool, and quiet with this setup....


----------



## WolfenWind

Hey guys I have a question. I recently bought the S12Bs and have them mounted so that they sandwich a corsair H50 mounted on the rear. For both fans the arrow is pointing towards the back and their sticker sides are also pointed towards the back.

Yet somehow when I measure with my hand I feel the airflow going into my case rather than out. Help?


----------



## damxi0

count me in


----------



## eatRAMEN

Count me in too!

4 x NF-P12
2 x NF-P14

Recycled:


----------



## raspinudo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eatRAMEN;15115132*
> Count me in too!
> 
> 4 x NF-P12
> 2 x NF-P14
> 
> Recycled:


Your airflow must be stellar! Great build dude.


----------



## damxi0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eatRAMEN;15115132*
> Count me in too!
> 
> 4 x NF-P12
> 2 x NF-P14
> 
> Recycled:


we may have the same configuration of fans, the only difference is that i'm using 2 fm121 instead of 2 nf-p12 in the front (intake)


----------



## Ironcobra

Just got 5 s12b's and one of them has a light knocking sound, Is this normal will it go away? Or should i rma it?


----------



## nagle3092

Take care of the thread animal0307, I will still see you guys around ocn from time to time. Let me know if you have any issues with the spreadsheet so we can get it worked out.


----------



## animal0307

I will do my best. You will be missed. Good luck with the graveyard shift. And feel free to drop in when ever you like. Also I will update the club sometime this coming week. My internet has been on the fritz for the few days but as soon as it is back I will add everyone that has posted.


----------



## animal0307

Thread updated. If I missed you I'm sorry. Please let me know and I will fix asap. Also try to post what you have along with a pictures if you desire.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironcobra;15145328*
> Just got 5 s12b's and one of them has a light knocking sound, Is this normal will it go away? Or should i rma it?


I would contact Noctua. Shoot a short video of it and send it to them. They may just opt to send you a new fan and ask you dispose of the defective one.


----------



## greedyisgood

Hello I am planning to upgrade to C14 and replace all my case fans but I do have some questions.
1. Can I still close my side panel after installing the C14?
2. If I installed a NF-P12(top) and NF-R8(rear) fans, can the c14 still be installed?
3. Which is better as a rear fan. a) NF-R8. b) 80mm to 120mm adapter + NF-P12.

Thanks


----------



## animal0307

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...l#post13741075

The original owner of the thread has that same set up. I don't believe a 80-120mm will fit with the side panel on.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Add me, please









WhitePrQjser - NH-D14 + NF-P12


----------



## Nemesis158

Can i Join?

NH-D14 with NF-P12 and NF-P14


----------



## animal0307

Up dated. Sorry it took so long. I'm having issues at home with the ISP at the moment. I will be updating as often as possible.


----------



## 218689

I want to join









running 3 NF-P12's in my secondary pc and thinking of adding either a NF-U9B SE2 or NH-C12P SE14 to the mix as well







if someone could recomend it that is.

pics can be found in my build log(in the sig) in reply #5, if required


----------



## langer1972

Here she is in all her glory.Can I join?


----------



## piskooooo

I've got a NH-D14 and 4x NF-P12


----------



## Jon A. Silvers

Add me too. I have NH-U12P SE2


----------



## sockpirate

do "newish" top down coolers by Noctua cool better than the D14?


----------



## langer1972

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sockpirate*


do "newish" top down coolers by Noctua cool better than the D14?


I would say no.I have seen some other benchmarks with some of the other ones that they make and they are warmer by 2 to 5 degs from what I have seen.


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *langer1972*


I would say no.I have seen some other benchmarks with some of the other ones that they make and they are warmer by 2 to 5 degs from what I have seen.


Dang lol i really like the look.


----------



## langer1972

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;15535400*
> Dang lol i really like the look.


What look?


----------



## langer1972

Look at this one.

http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Hardware/Reviews/noctua_nh_u9b/5.html


----------



## animal0307

Updated.


----------



## ehume

Secrets of the D14, Chapter 5 is now up.


----------



## 218689

Add a NH-U9B on me







amazing cooler, dropped my temperatures by almost 10C


----------



## mironccr345

Check this out...

Vienna, November 9th 2011 - Noctua today introduced the new NF-F12 120mm Focused Flow™ fan. Teaming up eleven stator guide vanes with a specially conceived seven blade impeller, the NF-F12's Focused Flow™ system creates outstanding static pressure and focuses the airflow for superior performance on heatsinks and radiators. At the same time, a wide range of advanced aerodynamic design measures, second generation SSO-Bearings and Noctua's new, custom designed PWM IC for fully automatic control guarantee astounding quietness of operation.

"Our award-winning NF-P12 has become a standard choice for pressure demanding applications such as CPU coolers and radiators, but we've been striving to achieve even better performance in this domain, and this is how the NF-F12 was born", explains Mag. Roland Mossig, Noctua CEO. "Due to the stator guide vanes focussing the airflow, it can push the air through dense fin stacks more effectively. This type of design has mostly been used for noisy high speed fans so far, so our engineers have put a lot of thought into keeping the noise in check."

The NF-F12 uses a wide range of aerodynamic optimisations in order to refine the fan's acoustic qualities. For example, the NF-F12's stator guide vanes are set out in Varying Angular Distance and feature Vortex-Control Notches. Both measures help to spread the noise emission over a broader frequency spectrum and thus make the fan's sound pattern more agreeable to the human ear. Another novel measure introduced with the NF-F12 is the Stepped Inlet Design, which adds turbulence to the influx in order to facilitate the transition from laminar flow to turbulent flow. This measure reduces tonal intake noise, improves flow attachment and increases suction capacity, especially in space restricted environments.

In addition to its advanced aerodynamic features, the NF-F12 is the first fan to implement the further optimised second generation of Noctua's renowned, time-tested SSO bearing as well as the novel, custom designed NE-FD1 PWM IC for fully automatic PWM speed control. The NE-FD1 integrates Noctua's Smooth Commutation Drive (SCD) technology for quieter operation and allows for ultra-low power consumption: Drawing only 0.6W, the NF-F12 consumes more than 50% less than many fans in the same speed range. This doesn't only make it eco-friendly but also cuts down the electricity bill.

Last but not least, the NF-F12 comes with modular cabling, integrated anti-vibration pads and two speed settings for full flexibility. Its commanding performance, exhaustive set of features and Noctua's trusted premium quality make it an elite choice for use on air coolers, radiators and other pressure demanding applications.

Price and availability
The NF-F12 will be available immediately at a recommended retail price of EUR 19.90 / USD 24.90.

Links
Details: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en
Specifications: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en&set=1
Photos: http://www.noctua.at/inc/imageviewer.php?item=42&pnr=0&lng=en
Video: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productvideos&products_id=42


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Check this out...


Amazing find. Makes me want to sell my NF-P12's for these. I'm buying at least one for my GPU heatsink, maybe even 3 so I can use them on my H50 also. If anyone wants to buy 3 NF-P12's, shoot me a PM. Wonder if they will be updating the P14's?

Also list updated. Added new fan to the OP also.


----------



## Tator Tot

For those of you looking to get the Focus Flow 120mm fans, but are really concerned with Silence, I'd pass on them.

www.legitreviews.com/article/1797/1/


----------



## ChesterCat

With only having 2 hard drives.....why the heck I need 2 hard drive cages ? [housing 4 each]

Yank both of them out....and gave the 120's direct access. There's NO doubt airflow increased


----------



## animal0307

Nice clean rig. I bet you do push a ton of air.

Working on updating the thread. The new format tanked some of the links and such.


----------



## fortinbras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> For those of you looking to get the Focus Flow 120mm fans, but are really concerned with Silence, I'd pass on them.
> 
> http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1797/1/


Hey guys, first post but I've been lurking for quite some time









I bought a couple NF-F12s and replaced the P12 that was on the back of my case. Dropped my case & CPU temps a couple degrees and it is only slightly louder. With the LNA @ 1200 RPM it is silent and seems about on par with the P12, albeit with slightly higher pressure. I think I'll keep it with the LNA for a bit as all I can hear now from my case is the rush of air.

Because of it's much higher static pressure the F12 should outperform the P12 in many common applications, such as adding resistance to either side of the fan, like a filter, HD cage, radiator or what have you. Also if you have a restricted airflow setup (i.e. not enough intake or case openings to match outtake CFM) the F12 will pull more air than most 120mm fans and do it pretty quietly. In a positive airflow setup, it should also push better. To me, this is its biggest advantage along with it's PWM capability.

Yes, the F12 is louder than the P12, but only a little and you get a significant increase in static pressure performance. Even with the LNA, pressure is higher than the P12. I'd say if you're into Noctua fans, it's a worthy upgrade.


----------



## animal0307

Welcome to OCN. If you are planning on staying we'd love to see your rig And I can ad you to the list. I'm also interested in the F12s. Just gotta find a buyer for my P12s and a retailer for F12's


----------



## Pittster

Ohh can i join this club too.

I Love this cooler bloody brilliant but I'll porbably get hated on for getting the Thermalright TY-140's, got them for the PWM control and i wanted a nice side fan for my case, so I used the Noctuas for the rear and side

Original










Then put new fans on the Best cooler in history IMO


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pittster*
> 
> I get hated on for getting the Thermalright TY-140's


I'd not be too terribly concerned, bout what others might say/think...

........it's all about what makes the box and you happy


----------



## Pittster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> I'd not be too terribly concerned, bout what others might say/think...
> ........it's all about what makes the box and you happy


Well i'm very happy with those fans and they ramp down via PWM connection when not under load and i cant even here them.


----------



## animal0307

List updated. Working on getting it back on the main page.


----------



## fortinbras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Welcome to OCN. If you are planning on staying we'd love to see your rig And I can ad you to the list. I'm also interested in the F12s. Just gotta find a buyer for my P12s and a retailer for F12's


I'll get it posted sometime soon. Although it's a few years old, it still gets the job done and my overclocked 4870 is still a great performer. I asked for a Noctua CPU cooler for Xmas so I can do some overclocking in that arena as well.

The P12 is a great fan to have around as a spare. I put it in my PSU, problem solved. It moves waaay more air than the old fan over the heatsinks, makes me wonder why I didn't do it before.


----------



## animal0307

USA NCIX has NF-F12's!!!! Anyone want to buy my P12's so I can justify the upgrade?

NF-F12


----------



## dihartnell

Sign me up too please.

NT-H1 thermal compound and NH-D14 Cooler.

I dont mind that its ugly. its quiet and works super well.


----------



## animal0307

Ahh Beauty really is in the eyes of the beholder. Will get you added right away.


----------



## animal0307

Bumping for some Noctua love. Mounted my C14 to my "new" Mini ITX board. If I had shorter ram I could turn it 90degress, mount the bottom fan and it would all fit in the ITX foot print.


----------



## mironccr345

^ The cooler looks almost as big as the mobo! Looks good!


----------



## Chilly

Add me as well, NH-U12P SE2!


----------



## animal0307

It is I'm loving it. I've always wanted a Mini ITX system and now I have one. I just can't get over how small it is. I can only image how much a D14 would dwarf it.


----------



## animal0307

It just about is. I'm loving the ITX platform. I can only imagine how much the D14 would dwarf an ITX board.


----------



## animal0307

For anyone who cares Xoxide.com has NF-F12's

http://www.xoxide.com/noctua-nff12-120focused-flowcasefan.html


----------



## ehume

The Secrets of the D14, Chapter 6 is now up.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Ahh Beauty really is in the eyes of the beholder.


_
So a "Mate" walks into your home, grabs a beer and sits down to chat.

After a couple minutes, he ask, "can I take a look at the color of your fans?"

After about 2 seconds of thought......... I bytch slap him into submission._

*THE END*


----------



## billcox0625

Add me. Noctua Nh-D14


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billcox0625*
> 
> Add me. Noctua Nh-D14


Added. Mind if I why you changed your fans?


----------



## billcox0625

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Added. Mind if I why you changed your fans?


Couldn't stand the look of the Noctua fans.


----------



## mironccr345

The fan color is like an acquired taste. It took me a while to get use to the color too.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> The fan color is like an acquired taste.


seemed to me....the absolute least important feature of a cooler

Ain't seen the color of mine.....since the side panel was popped back on......sheeeeeeesh

nevermind......don't wanna git started


----------



## jaywar

Just purchased some new fans. I will admit, I did not used to like the colour, but I think it is an acquired taste.
I love myself some Noctua's.


----------



## animal0307

Nice collection you have there. How well do those F12's preform?


----------



## jaywar

Haven't tried them out yet. Waiting on a h100 I just ordered to compare against my h80. I've heard a lot of good things about the F12's though. I'll post my results with the F12's vs the stock corsair fans when I get a chance. I'm thinking push pull with four f12s on the h100, Any ideas?


----------



## animal0307

Really? The F12's are suppose to be great for rads and heatsinks due to their higher static air pressure, but it does come at a cost they a bit louder than the P12's. I just want a couple F12's so I can use the PWM on my H50 and Setsugen 2 and control them with software.


----------



## ehume

There are no F12's

P12's good for heatsinks

S12B's designed to be case fans

As for use on rads, check out Martinm210. If he covers it.


----------



## animal0307

You sure about that? Out newest Member jay even has a picture of 4. the F12 PWM and the P12 PWM are Noctuas two newest fans. The F12 is completely new fan and the P12 PWM in the P12 with PWM control.

NF-F12 PWM

NF-P12 PWM


----------



## jaywar

Yeah they should be pretty good for rads.

F12's are pretty new. You must be mistaken. Look here...

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en


----------



## Kyronn94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> There are no F12's
> 
> P12's good for heatsinks
> S12B's designed to be case fans


http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en

The NF-F12 PWM is there newest fan.

EDIT: Ninja'd

Just popping in to say I've got 2 more NF-P14's, bringing my total up to 4.
I also ordered 2 NF-F12's, but received 2 NF-P12 PWM's

I'm looking into it


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyronn94*
> 
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en
> The NF-F12 PWM is there newest fan.
> Just popping in to say I've got 2 more NF-P14's, bringing my total up to 4.
> I also ordered 2 NF-F12's, but received 2 NF-P12's...
> I'm looking into it


Updating your total. Sucks to hear about the F12 mix up.

Just curious where are you guys getting you fans from? When I was looking for then a few weeks ago they weren't at the Egg yet.


----------



## jaywar

I usually only go newegg, but had to go FrozenCPU.com for my latest additions.


----------



## animal0307

Thanks. I didn't even think to go there. Xoxide "has" them but still aren't in stock.


----------



## Kyronn94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Updating your total. Sucks to hear about the F12 mix up.
> 
> Just curious where are you guys getting you fans from? When I was looking for then a few weeks ago they weren't at the Egg yet.


Yeah, I know. They were delivered today (Saturday), which means I won't get a response until Monday









I'm in the UK, so I get mine from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NF-F12-25mm-Focused-FLow/dp/B00650P2ZC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326574827&sr=8-1


----------



## ehume

I was certainly mistaken. I read the package wrong.

Those F12's should be better for rads, since the function of stators is to increase static pressure. We'll only know when Martinm210 or someone else tests them.


----------



## Kyronn94

So I'm two fans away from 'finishing' my rig









Just a quick question, is it OK to use 2 voltage adapters on a single fan, specifically a P-14?

They're not as quiet when used as an intake through a dust filtered grill.

Thanks.


----------



## animal0307

I don't think the fan will spin if you have two of them hooked up. My 3x p14's are dead silent with the ULNA hooked up. They are pulling through a 1/4 foam filter.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Can i join?

I have an NH-U12P SE2 and 2 NF-P12's


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Can i join?


In


----------



## rievhardt

I'm currently interested for air cooling in Vulcan.

Would Noctua NH-C14 fit in it
or only Noctua NH-C12P SE14

to be placed on a z68

they will pull in air from the side panel to the proc. right?
so if I put in the side fan, it won't disrupt airflow correct?
also can I still use the side fan/top fan with Noctua NH-C12P SE14 or Noctua NH-C14 installed?

any Noctua/Vulcan users around to confirm?

any other recommendations?
+I want something quiet and performs well. like a ninja!
+should be able to use the top fans.
+likes to use the side fan but I can live without it.
+I like leds but I can also live without it.

Thanks!


----------



## mironccr345

Here's some news from Noctua.

Vienna, February 21st 2012 - Noctua today presented its new NH-L12 low-profile cooler for Small Form Factor cases and HTPC environments. The NH-L12 features a flexible NF-F12 (120mm) / NF-B9 (92mm) dual PWM fan setup that can be configured either for full performance in dual fan mode or extra-low profile (66mm) with the top fan removed.

"The industry trend towards Small Form Factor and Home Theatre PCs is well-established, but there's still a lack of suitable high-quality quiet CPU coolers", explains Mag. Roland Mossig, Noctua CEO. "Building a powerful PC always requires a capable CPU, which in return demands a competent cooling solution. But who wants his HTPC to sound like a jet engine? This is precisely where the NH-L12 steps in."

Thanks to its exquisite dual fan setup consisting of Noctua's highly optimised NF-F12 (120mm) and NF-B9 (92mm) premium fans, the NH-L12 pushes the bar in terms of low-profile quiet cooling performance. Alternatively, the NH-L12 can also be used with the NF-B9 92mm fan only in order to reduce the overall height to 66mm. This way, the cooler is suitable for many typical µATX or Mini-ITX enclosures and ideal for whisper-quiet HTPC systems.

The NH-L12's NF-F12 and NF-B9 fans support PWM for convenient automatic speed control. In addition, the maximum fan speed can be reduced to 1200/1300rpm using the supplied Low-Noise Adaptors for even quieter operation. Bundled with the award-winning NT-H1 thermal compound and Noctua's SecuFirm2™ multi-socket mounting system, the NH-L12 packs everything a premium quality quiet cooler needs into a highly compact package.

Price and Availability
The NH-L12 will be available immediately at a recommended retail price of EUR 49.90 / USD 59.90.

Links
Details: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=46&lng=en
Specifications: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=46&lng=en&set=1
Photos: http://www.noctua.at/inc/imageviewer.php?item=46&pnr=0&lng=en

Looks like a promising cooler for a computer case that can't house the bigger Noctua cpu coolers.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rievhardt*
> 
> I'm currently interested for air cooling in Vulcan.
> Would Noctua NH-C14 fit in it
> or only Noctua NH-C12P SE14
> to be placed on a z68
> they will pull in air from the side panel to the proc. right?
> so if I put in the side fan, it won't disrupt airflow correct?
> also can I still use the side fan/top fan with Noctua NH-C12P SE14 or Noctua NH-C14 installed?
> any Noctua/Vulcan users around to confirm?
> any other recommendations?
> +I want something quiet and performs well. like a ninja!
> +should be able to use the top fans.
> +likes to use the side fan but I can live without it.
> +I like leds but I can also live without it.
> Thanks!


Check the post about the new Noctua Cooler if your unsure about the other CPU coolers fitting. Im sure the NH-L12 will have no problem fitting in the Vulcan case.


----------



## rievhardt

^ thanks man! nice post and I appreciate the tip!


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rievhardt*
> 
> I'm currently interested for air cooling in Vulcan.
> Would Noctua NH-C14 fit in it
> or only Noctua NH-C12P SE14
> to be placed on a z68
> they will pull in air from the side panel to the proc. right?
> so if I put in the side fan, it won't disrupt airflow correct?
> also can I still use the side fan/top fan with Noctua NH-C12P SE14 or Noctua NH-C14 installed?
> any Noctua/Vulcan users around to confirm?
> any other recommendations?
> +I want something quiet and performs well. like a ninja!
> +should be able to use the top fans.
> +likes to use the side fan but I can live without it.
> +I like leds but I can also live without it.
> Thanks!


Page 2 of the club has a picture of the C12 installed in a Vulcan. Hard to tell if the top fans are installed but given that the fans are recessed into the top of the case it looks like it should have no problem clearing them.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1016941/the-official-noctua-club#post_13517460

According to NZXT the Vulcan has a 165mm clearance for heatsinks without the side fan. They say its a 35mm thick so that makes it close to 130mm with it. The C14 is 105mm without the top fan so it is 130mm with it. The numbers say it will could in theory work.

Here is a post where someone claimed to have a C14 installed in a Vulcan, but no pictures so take it with a grain of salt. As far as the top fans are concerned with the C14 I would imagine it depends on the orientaion of the C14 on you board.

Quote:


> MODEL Vulcan Series CASE TYPE Gaming mATX Chassis LED Color Orange Front panel connectors 1 x HD Audio/Mic, 2 x USB 2.0, 1 x eSATA FRONT PANEL MATERIAL Plastic / Steel Mesh DIMENSIONS (W x H x D) 180mm (W) x 422.5mm (H) x 406mm (D) / 7" x 16.6" x 16" Dimensions w/o Handle 180mm (W) x 380mm (H) x 406mm (D) / 7" x 14.9" x 16" VGA Clearance Maximum 350mm CPU heatsink height support 165mm (without 35mm thick side 200mm fan) COOLING SYSTEM
> 
> FRONT, 1 X 120mm (included)
> REAR, 1 X 92/80mm
> TOP, 2 x 120mm (1 x Orange LED fan included)
> SIDE, 1 x 200mm
> 
> DRIVE BAYS  6 DRIVE BAYS
> 2 EXTERNAL 5.25" DRIVE BAYS
> 2 EXTERNAL 3.5" DRIVE BAYS
> 2 INTERNAL 3.5" DRIVE BAYS
> Screwless Rail Design MATERIAL(S) Steel with powder black coating inside EXPANSION SLOTS 4 WEIGHT 5.80 kg / 12.8 lbs MOTHERBOARD SUPPORT
> 
> MICRO-ATX, ITX


Quote:


> *C-Type top-flow design*
> The NH-C14's six heatpipe c-type design allows for superb quiet cooling performance while maintaining a much lower profile than today's tower-style coolers and providing excellent airflow over RAM modules and near-socket mainboard components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Dual NF-P14 FLX fans*
> The NH-C14 comes with two of Noctua's award-winning, premium quality NF-P14 140mm fans that can be fine-tuned according to the user's needs via the supplied Low-Noise (L.N.A.) and Ultra-Low-Noise Adaptors (U.L.N.A.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Low Profile Mode*
> Run with a single NF-P14 fan underneath the fin stack and with the top fan removed, the NH-C14 measures only 105mm in height, which makes it ideal for use in smaller enclosures and HTPC applications.


Sorry about taking so long to reply.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Here's some news from Noctua.
> Vienna, February 21st 2012 - Noctua today presented its new NH-L12 low-profile cooler for Small Form Factor cases and HTPC environments. The NH-L12 features a flexible NF-F12 (120mm) / NF-B9 (92mm) dual PWM fan setup that can be configured either for full performance in dual fan mode or extra-low profile (66mm) with the top fan removed.
> "The industry trend towards Small Form Factor and Home Theatre PCs is well-established, but there's still a lack of suitable high-quality quiet CPU coolers", explains Mag. Roland Mossig, Noctua CEO. "Building a powerful PC always requires a capable CPU, which in return demands a competent cooling solution. But who wants his HTPC to sound like a jet engine? This is precisely where the NH-L12 steps in."
> Thanks to its exquisite dual fan setup consisting of Noctua's highly optimised NF-F12 (120mm) and NF-B9 (92mm) premium fans, the NH-L12 pushes the bar in terms of low-profile quiet cooling performance. Alternatively, the NH-L12 can also be used with the NF-B9 92mm fan only in order to reduce the overall height to 66mm. This way, the cooler is suitable for many typical µATX or Mini-ITX enclosures and ideal for whisper-quiet HTPC systems.
> The NH-L12's NF-F12 and NF-B9 fans support PWM for convenient automatic speed control. In addition, the maximum fan speed can be reduced to 1200/1300rpm using the supplied Low-Noise Adaptors for even quieter operation. Bundled with the award-winning NT-H1 thermal compound and Noctua's SecuFirm2™ multi-socket mounting system, the NH-L12 packs everything a premium quality quiet cooler needs into a highly compact package.
> Price and Availability
> The NH-L12 will be available immediately at a recommended retail price of EUR 49.90 / USD 59.90.
> Links
> Details: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=46&lng=en
> Specifications: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=46&lng=en&set=1
> Photos: http://www.noctua.at/inc/imageviewer.php?item=46&pnr=0&lng=en
> Looks like a promising cooler for a computer case that can't house the bigger Noctua cpu coolers.


MINI C14!!! I wonder how well it performs. If I ever need a low profile cooler I will be keeping this in mind. +1 for the post. I will add it to the main post here shortly.


----------



## mironccr345

Im curious on the performance too. The cooler comes with one NF-F12, I would think it performs really well?


----------



## Haelous

I love my new Noctua coolers. Very well made, and the accessories they come with are a nice touch. Both the fans and the heatsinks are great.

Can I join?


----------



## animal0307

Sure can, I will add you to the list after I get my nightly dose of Minecraft.


----------



## Fatalrip

I wanna join, my pics are in my sig rig. I've got 5 p12's a p14 and the two fans on my d-14 (two of the p 12s is on the side panel).


----------



## OutlawNeedsHelp

$25 for those fans on newegg... I think i'll keep my yate loons.


----------



## animal0307

For a 6 year warranty I'll pay $25. Not to mention Nocuta fans feel amazing and are superb build quality.


----------



## animal0307

Club updated, Members added and new items added. Anyone else notice Noctua seems to be overhauling their fans with PWM support? The NF-9B and NF-R8 now both have PWM variants on the Noctua product page.

Edit:








Seem to have broken the main post while updating. Any mods out there that could explain what I did if I don't find it first?


----------



## animal0307

Ehume's review of the new PWM fans is now in the OP and I have fixed the main page


----------



## Kyronn94

I think it's good that they're PWM-ing their fans, although now you can't plug them into your PSU with adapters.

How many PWM fans can you have per header until things start going wrong?

Also, does anyone know when the NH-L12 will actually be available to buy?
I want to put it in my Packard Bell









cheers.


----------



## ehume

At least five.


----------



## makokin

Hi, I would like to join - here is my NH-U12P SE2

noctua for the win


----------



## Otterclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyronn94*
> 
> Also, does anyone know when the NH-L12 will actually be available to buy?
> I want to put it in my Packard Bell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cheers.


Other Noc products tend to show up on Amazon about 3 weeks before being available. If that's any indicator. I'd say a couple weeks from now, maybe sooner.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makokin*
> 
> Hi, I would like to join - here is my NH-U12P SE2
> 
> noctua for the win


In for the win

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyronn94*
> 
> I think it's good that they're PWM-ing their fans, although now you can't plug them into your PSU with adapters.
> How many PWM fans can you have per header until things start going wrong?
> Also, does anyone know when the NH-L12 will actually be available to buy?
> I want to put it in my Packard Bell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cheers.


FrozenCPU has 9 according to their page.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15394/cpu-noc-23/Noctua_NH-L12_6-Heatpipe_Low_Profile_CPU_Heat_Sink_Sockets_LGA_2011_1366_1056_1155_775_AMD_AM2_AM2_AM3_AM3_FM1.html


----------



## UNTEngineer

I'd like to join with a Noctua NH-D14.


----------



## animal0307

You're in.


----------



## cgull

I'd like to join:

coolers
2x NH-U9B SE2

fans
4x NF-R8
2x NF-S12B FLX
2x NF-S12B ULN


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> I'd like to join:
> coolers
> 2x NH-U9B SE2
> fans
> 4x NF-R8
> 2x NF-S12B FLX
> 2x NF-S12B ULN


I will add you when I get home after work.


----------



## animal0307

updated. If I've missed you let me know.


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I wish to claim this title too. Noctua themed sleeving. This is just my practice piece. 12V rail on PCI E power lead. There will be more to come.


Love this!


----------



## golfergolfer

Add me up







NH-C14 in an SFFish build


----------



## animal0307

You will be added when I get home from work.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> Add me up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NH-C14 in an SFFish build


You're in now.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I wish to claim this title too. Noctua themed sleeving. This is just my practice piece. 12V rail on PCI E power lead. There will be more to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love this!
Click to expand...

My Sister wants to know if you'll do her hair. ??


----------



## animal0307

Sure?


----------



## ohhgourami

Add me to the club. Pic is in my rig status thing.


----------



## animal0307

Lazy but it works. Added.


----------



## ohhgourami

Ok fine so everyone can see...



Notice I'm only using the heatsink as I don't think the fans are quiet enough at idle


----------



## TheBenson

Hey guys I got a question about cooling performance.

Over the last couple weeks I have been switching in and out various motherboards for my system, having to re-install my cpu/nh-d14 multiple times and I am now seeing dramatic performance loss(as much as 8c underload). During this time I have been using a different thermal paste as well, Xigamtek PTI-3606. I did notice that my cpu has some dried up paste on the side of the thermal plate and a *very* small spec of paste on the back of the exposed pcb near the side of the thermal plate as well. I need to get some kind of tool to deal with both as paper cloth is getting at it very well. I'm just wondering just how severely can those minor bits of paste be effecting my temperatures? Is the Xigmatek paste also contributing to the worse temps? I was using a Zalman brand before. The Xigmatek I'm using was rated well in reviews, but I ordered some MX-2 just to have a comparison. One last thing, thus far I have been screwing in the NH-D14 heatsink alternating between the 2 screws until I get both about 1/2 screwed, then just finishing each screw off. Should I be alternating the whole way through to get a more even spread?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBenson*
> 
> Hey guys I got a question about cooling performance.
> 
> Over the last couple weeks I have been switching in and out various motherboards for my system, having to re-install my cpu/nh-d14 multiple times and I am now seeing dramatic performance loss(as much as 8c underload). During this time I have been using a different thermal paste as well, Xigamtek PTI-3606. I did notice that my cpu has some dried up paste on the side of the thermal plate and a *very* small spec of paste on the back of the exposed pcb near the side of the thermal plate as well. I need to get some kind of tool to deal with both as paper cloth is getting at it very well. I'm just wondering just how severely can those minor bits of paste be effecting my temperatures? Is the Xigmatek paste also contributing to the worse temps? I was using a Zalman brand before. The Xigmatek I'm using was rated well in reviews, but I ordered some MX-2 just to have a comparison. One last thing, thus far I have been screwing in the NH-D14 heatsink alternating between the 2 screws until I get both about 1/2 screwed, then just finishing each screw off. Should I be alternating the whole way through to get a more even spread?


I alternate all the way.

But I'd say your cpu's ihs and your d14 bottom plate both need a good cleaning. I use coffee filters (dustless) and 91% alcohol, then follow with the Arcticlean 2-step. (free shipping)


----------



## animal0307

I'm not sure about the paste you are using but it very possible that is has an impact on your temps. Some paste do have a curing time. Make sure you get the die and heatsink as clean as possible. I tend to just rub the used paste off with a dry cotton ball, then give it a quick pass with a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol on it. Try reseating the sink if your not sure you did it right or your temps are off. Don't use too much/little paste. Taking the time to slowly tighten the bolts is a good idea. If you lock one side down too far too fast image the surfaces acting like a tube of tooth paste being squeezed from the bottom. All the paste will squeeze to one side or out from between the two entirely.

Also I assume you are benching (that being why you are swapping so often) so you are oc'ing to the same point on all the boards. Are your voltages all the same?


----------



## TheBenson

Voltages are all similar. 1.35 volts used to net 72C maybe 74 after 6+ hours, now it is low to mid 80's. I been using paper cloth and 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol.


----------



## Plenair

Just finish putting in a used NH-D14 not too long ago.



Using it without the fans for now as my motherboard's CPU Fan header does not allow voltage fan control... and I don't have any of the LNA / ULNA adapters... anyone know where I can get some here in Australia?


----------



## ehume

The Noctua fans will run at 5v, and you have that available from your psu, right on the Molex.


----------



## Plenair

Hrm ok thanks, so I need to snip some wires on the molex to fan adapter?

Still a bit reluctant to do this as that would introduce another cable from the PSU, right now only 1 Sata power and 2 PCIe cables are connected but thanks for the tip I will consider that


----------



## animal0307

Hit up Noctua. They may be willing to send you some free of charge. I assume you bought it second hand without the accessories. Explain your situation and see what happens. Worse case scenario they say no and you are back to jerry rigging some assorted to your psu.


----------



## mironccr345

^ I agree. They have very good customer support.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plenair*
> 
> Hrm ok thanks, so I need to snip some wires on the molex to fan adapter?
> 
> Still a bit reluctant to do this as that would introduce another cable from the PSU, right now only 1 Sata power and 2 PCIe cables are connected but thanks for the tip I will consider that


Actually, not so. You get a 3-pin to Molex adapter, use a Molex pin extractor tool (it's a tube that slides over a Molex pin) to pull pins out the back of a Molex plug, and move the yellow 12v wire to the position formerly inhabited by the red 5v wire. That turns your adapter to a 5v adapter. I have done it on a number of mine. It's completely reversible.


----------



## Plenair

thanks!

but by formerly, I assume that the red wire gets... removed?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plenair*
> 
> thanks!
> 
> but by formerly, I assume that the red wire gets... removed?


Nah. Just tied off, so you can plug it back in later if you really want to. I rarely cut things off . . . unless it's useless sheet metal on a case.


----------



## RanGTO

Grabbed em second hand. Can someone tell my which one is newer or what's the thing with that color difference as well as sticker/slightly different frame ?

Anyway they need some cleaning. And I don't really mind the difference since I'm planning to paint em probably like this ..


----------



## thekingbeyond

I think the p12 on the right is an older model to the one on the left, there were very slight changes to the frames and colours, not sure if the bearings or pcb were changed. I have one of the older ones and 3 newer and there doesn't appear to be any difference in speed/voltage/db ratio.


----------



## animal0307

Off the top of my head I'll agree with king. I don't remember my fans having a blue sticker. I'd had to look at them when I get home. I have also noticed color differences between the different models I own.


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RanGTO*
> 
> Grabbed em second hand. Can someone tell my which one is newer or what's the thing with that color difference as well as sticker/slightly different frame ?
> Anyway they need some cleaning. And I don't really mind the difference since I'm planning to paint em probably like this ..






Mine looks more like the ones on the right. I bought my fans last summer.

on another note. Here's what I'm working on for the Chimp Challenge next week. The Noctua fan color goes well with the 990FX Sabertooth mobo.


----------



## thekingbeyond

on the newer p12 fans the recess next to the fan mounting hole is split into 3 seperate areas, on the older fans it appears as one. There are differences from the side as well, the older fan is on the right


----------



## RanGTO

Thanks guys, I just wanted to know this. I don't really know how old they are, but they run very smooth.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekingbeyond*
> 
> I have one of the older ones and 3 newer and there doesn't appear to be any difference in speed/voltage/db ratio.


My opinion also. They seem to perform the same


----------



## RanGTO

Hm. Anyone managed to take apart the newer NF-P12 ?

The old one (braon blades) comes off pretty easy as soon as the magnet is removed. But the bordeaux won't no matter how strong I pull or push ...I think I'm realy close to sending it to snap city if I go further with the pressing ..


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RanGTO*
> 
> Hm. Anyone managed to take apart the newer NF-P12 ?
> The old one (braon blades) comes off pretty easy as soon as the magnet is removed. But the bordeaux won't no matter how strong I pull or push ...I think I'm realy close to sending it to snap city if I go further with the pressing ..






Are you going to paint your fans?


----------



## RanGTO

Painting in progess as I type. Third coat is on and I'm just waiting for it to dry so I can turn it over. I'll post pictures of it later.

I'll trade bordeaux for the older one with my friend. Looks like that newer verion one just can't be taken apart ..

P.S frame's going black, blades stay the same color.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RanGTO*
> 
> Painting in progess as I type. Third coat is on and I'm just waiting for it to dry so I can turn it over. I'll post pictures of it later.
> I'll trade bordeaux for the older one with my friend. Looks like that newer verion one just can't be taken apart ..
> P.S frame's going black, blades stay the same color.


That's going to look sick!


----------



## RanGTO

Well I finished.

*Preparation*



















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






























*Painting - 5 to 6 very thin coats*



















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!































*Done*


























*Blades back on







*


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Nice!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RanGTO*
> 
> Well I finished.
> *Preparation*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Painting - 5 to 6 very thin coats*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Done*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Blades back on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *






Nice work! Is that going on a CPU cooler or your case?


----------



## RanGTO

Thanks mate









Two of them will be top intake on my 650D


----------



## animal0307

Ok I won't give you he'll for painting them. They do look good in a black frame. You should try dying the next one.

forum.overclock3d.net/index.php?/topic/35380-guide-on-how-to-change-the-colour-of-noctua-fans/


----------



## animal0307

Ok I won't give you he'll for painting them. They do look good in a black frame. You should try dying the next one.

forum.overclock3d.net/index.php?/topic/35380-guide-on-how-to-change-the-colour-of-noctua-fans/
link in next post


----------



## mironccr345

@animal The link doesn't work.


----------



## animal0307

http://forum.overclock3d.net/index.php?/topic/35380-guide-on-how-to-change-the-colour-of-noctua-fans/T

There we go that should do. I haven't gotten the hang of linking on my ipod yet.


----------



## mironccr345

Wow, that was awesome. Thanks for the link. That's probably the better option if you wanted to change the color of the NF-P12's. +rep for the link!!!


----------



## SunBakedEmoKid

Got a D14 w/ P14 (single fan config), a P12 and 3x S12B FLX


----------



## Ragsters

Has anyone heard of a release date for the new D14 with the alternating fins?


----------



## damnwebsite

D14 here







http://cdn.overclock.net/7/7d/900x900px-LL-7d29927a_524467_3658439695031_1095797756_33315093_1692861780_n.jpeg


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damnwebsite*
> 
> D14 here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/7/7d/900x900px-LL-7d29927a_524467_3658439695031_1095797756_33315093_1692861780_n.jpeg


Hmm. Looks familiar. Wonder what that thing is? Trash compactor?


----------



## Sxcerino

Hey guys, quick question.

I bought a pair of F12's to put on my D14, all is good.

But then when I took them off, I accidentally broke off the black wire connecting to the inside circle of the fan, which looked like it was soldered on.

Could I just solder it back on? What would be the easiest/best course of action? If soldering is the solution, do I need to buy a super fine one?

Thanks


----------



## animal0307

Post a pick real fast. You can probably get away with a normal tip iron so long as it's clean and still kinda sharp. I have a super nice bench style on with interchangeable tips and I use the 1-2mm when working with electronics. But if that fails remember you have a 6 year warranty, just don't make it look like you did it, but they are going to have you snap a blade off when you get the new one.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Post a pick real fast. You can probably get away with a normal tip iron so long as it's clean and still kinda sharp. I have a super nice bench style on with interchangeable tips and I use the 1-2mm when working with electronics. But if that fails remember you have a 6 year warranty, just don't make it look like you did it, but they are going to have you snap a blade off when you get the new one.


Unfortunately I painted the fans, so I could only fix them haha

I don't have the fans on me, but it's literally just the black wire deattached from the solder bump inside the fan.

What's the black wire? GND?


----------



## animal0307

it should be ground, it's common wiring.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> it should be ground, it's common wiring.


would my fan work without it? or would it short something? i dont believe the circuit completes without gnd right


----------



## animal0307

you serious? No, it won't.


----------



## ehume

Ah. Benjamin Franklin. He discovered that electricity circulates and gave us our +/- nomenclature.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Ah. Benjamin Franklin. He discovered that electricity circulates and gave us our +/- nomenclature.


worth a shot lol


----------



## animal0307

Yup. Cross your fingers the pad didn't get ripped off and that the wire snapped.


----------



## Ragsters

Which is the Nactua version with the new fans?


----------



## Pittster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Which is the Nactua version with the new fans?


The Noctua NH-D14 SE2011 LGA2011 has the newer PMW fans

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_23_1300&products_id=18927

Noctua NH-D14 dosent have PWM

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_23_845&products_id=13232


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pittster*
> 
> The Noctua NH-D14 SE2011 LGA2011 has the newer PMW fans
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_23_1300&products_id=18927
> Noctua NH-D14 dosent have PWM
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_23_845&products_id=13232


What about the one with these fans?
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damnwebsite*
> 
> D14 here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/7/7d/900x900px-LL-7d29927a_524467_3658439695031_1095797756_33315093_1692861780_n.jpeg


You're in now.


----------



## Aleckazee

NF-P14 FLX
NF-P12 (2 if it makes a difference







)
Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Compound


----------



## Sxcerino

i'm just the best.

before fixing my F12s with the wire, i managed to snap off one of my P12's fan blade.

Going to try to pick up some super glue tomorrow


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> i'm just the best.
> before fixing my F12s with the wire, i managed to snap off one of my P12's fan blade.
> Going to try to pick up some super glue tomorrow


I would not try that if I were you. The temp changes inside a case is enough to make the glue weak. When you add the centrifugal force of the fans spinning, the blade will eventually fly off and potentially ruin another component.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleckazee*
> 
> NF-P14 FLX
> NF-P12 (2 if it makes a difference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Compound


 added


----------



## EternalRest

I got (2) NF-F12 PWM's on CPU cooler, and (2) NF-P12 as intakes. I also had the NH-U12P SE2 back in the day.


----------



## Fireflash

Just bought myself three R8's to quite my beast down. HUGE difference! Love 'em!


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EternalRest*
> 
> I got (2) NF-F12 PWM's on CPU cooler, and (2) NF-P12 as intakes. I also had the NH-U12P SE2 back in the day.


Added

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fireflash*
> 
> Just bought myself three R8's to quite my beast down. HUGE difference! Love 'em!


Added. I have an R8 too. Not exactly silent, it has that hum/whine that most 80mm fans but compared to others it might as well be silent. Lets see your system. I can't think of many cases that need 80mm fans any more let alone 3.


----------



## bortoloj

Here is my noctua NF-P12 on a Alpenfohn brocken


----------



## mironccr345

That ^^ looks really good.

Here's my folding rig.


----------



## felladium

Here's my good old NH-D14.



I've got an NF-S12B and an NF-F12 coming in today, too.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> Here is my noctua NF-P12 on a Alpenfohn brocken


That is sexy







Added

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That ^^ looks really good.
> Here's my folding rig.


Added. Looks good. Makes folding nice and quiet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felladium*
> 
> Here's my good old NH-D14.
> 
> I've got an NF-S12B and an NF-F12 coming in today, too.


Dusty but trusty







Added.


----------



## felladium

Yeah, my rig is directly under an A/C vent. That keeps things nice and cool...and accelerates dust accumulation...


----------



## mironccr345

It does the job. Once the ChimpChallenge is over, Im going to take it home and add two more NF-p12's in the front as intake.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> It does the job. Once the ChimpChallenge is over, Im going to take it home and add two more NF-p12's in the front as intake.


I approve of this. Let me know when you get them. I'll add them to your total.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I approve of this. Let me know when you get them. I'll add them to your total.


Thanks! I have a buddy who spray painted two NF-p12's black. Once I get my hands on them. Im going to figure out how to restore them back to it's original color. Any ideas?


----------



## animal0307

My GoogleFu has prevailed today. unfortunately them seem to be a UK only product. One of the videos mentioned that the US equivalent may be Pine-Sol but it hadn't been tested so proceed with cation.











Edit: Pine-Sol Test!


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> My GoogleFu has prevailed today. unfortunately them seem to be a UK only product. One of the videos mentioned that the US equivalent may be Pine-Sol but it hadn't been tested so proceed with cation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Pine-Sol Test!






Thanks, I'll have to give it a try....cautiously.







I'll post pics once I get them and attempt to restore it.


----------



## ChesterCat

Noctua developing noise-cancelling PC fan, will demo at Computex
By Sarah Silbert posted May 30th 2012 at 6:57PM



Try as we might to block it out, we just can't stand the whirring of our PC fan when it starts to act up. There may be an end to our cringing, as Austrian company Noctua is gearing up to debut a fan with integrated noise cancellation at Computex. The cooling fan to be shown in Taipei is only a prototype, but we know it's a Noctua NF-F12 model that uses noise-control technology from RotoSub. Luckily, Computex is less than a week away, so we'll soon have a better idea of whether this fan can keep our PC from sounding like a 777 ready for takeoff... we're sure our coworkers would appreciate it.

http://www.engadget.com/2012/05/30/noctua-noise-cancelling-pc-fan/

http://www.engadget.com/2012/05/30/noctua-noise-cancelling-pc-fan/


----------



## animal0307

Hmm.. It will be interesting to see what they do to the F12 to make it quieter. Make sme kinda glad I haven't jumped on the F12's yet. Nice find


----------



## jaywar

I have six NF-F12's, two NF-SB12 FLX, two NF-P12's, three NF-P14's (in the mail), and a NH-D14 SE2011. I'm not sure if thermal paste counts; I have two NT-H1's.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaywar*
> 
> I have six NF-F12's, two NF-SB12 FLX, two NF-P12's, three NF-P14's (in the mail), and a NH-D14 SE2011. I'm not sure if thermal paste counts; I have two NT-H1's.


Jeez! I think you may have the most fans in the club. I'll get you added after Work. So what are you going to be cooling with all that? And in what case?


----------



## mironccr345

That's a lot of Noctua!


----------



## jaywar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Jeez! I think you may have the most fans in the club. I'll get you added after Work. So what are you going to be cooling with all that? And in what case?


Well I had all the *NF-F12's* on my two XSPC RX 360's, But I switched to the *NH-D14* for college. I have a *Lian Li PC-V2120B*. I just bought the 3 x 140s to replace the stock Li Lian fans. I will post a picture of my case with the noctua's when I get them in. I emailed Noctua support for another fan clip for my *NH-D14*, so I should get that in soon. I swapped out the standard *NF-P12* on the *NH-D14* for a *NF-F12* and put another on my 120mm exhaust. The other ones are collecting dust on my dimastech test bench with the radiators.

Some pics before I switched to my Lian Li

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/18020#post_16586211[/URL


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaywar*


i got that many and more coming..

airdeano


----------



## mironccr345

I found some NF-F12's at amozon for $19. (the cheapest I found so far other than used) I might have to try them out?


----------



## mam72

I found this on the new noise cancelling fans:






by the looks of it, it looks like it removes annoying whining from the fan.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaywar*
> 
> I have six NF-F12's, two NF-SB12 FLX, two NF-P12's, three NF-P14's (in the mail), and a NH-D14 SE2011. I'm not sure if thermal paste counts; I have two NT-H1's.


You are now added.

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> i got that many and more coming..
> airdeano


Lets see them when you get them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mam72*
> 
> I found this on the new noise cancelling fans:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by the looks of it, it looks like it removes annoying whining from the fan.


Interesting. Hope that box is just a mock up and they have yet to shrink the circuit down. That certainly is a big difference in motor noise.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I found some NF-F12's at amozon for $19. (the cheapest I found so far other than used) I might have to try them out?


http://www.ncix.us/products/?sku=66920

$15.23. I ordered 4 a few days ago at $15.45. Free shipping on orders over $50.

I'll join the club when mine get here







(Push-pull H100)


----------



## zGunBLADEz

This is my collection so far XD


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> http://www.ncix.us/products/?sku=66920
> $15.23. I ordered 4 a few days ago at $15.45. Free shipping on orders over $50.
> I'll join the club when mine get here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Push-pull H100)


My wallet hates you... Those are so cheap and I can't really afford to spend the money but I may not be able to help it. Post up some pictures when you get them and I'll add you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zGunBLADEz*
> 
> This is my collection so far XD


Nice collection. Also welcome our 100th member. You win....



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



nothing but bragging rights.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> airdeano - Lets see them when you get them.



here is maybe half of my inventory in noctua, the c14 is coming and more p12.


just got the new packaging for the noctua f12. you have to open the flap to see the fan.
came from NCIX freshest restock.

airdeano


----------



## mironccr345

^^ I'd like to invest in some of the new NF-F12's! Nice inventory!


----------



## thekingbeyond

Can I join

Noctua NH-D14
4 x NF-P12
3 x NF-P14
3 x NF-F12 PWM


----------



## mironccr345

Holy Noctua Fans Batman! That's actually cool looking. How did you mount the fans on your cards like that? What's up with the NF-F12 stacked on top of the NF-P12 on the bottom of your case?


----------



## thekingbeyond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Holy Noctua Fans Batman! That's actually cool looking. How did you mount the fans on your cards like that? What's up with the NF-F12 stacked on top of the NF-P12 on the bottom of your case?


I took 2 pci slot covers and bent them into the shape I needed, then screwed the left fan to them, the fans are just cable tied together. The f12 is sitting on an old broken p12 that I gutted to make a fan shroud, there was some air noise from the grill below with f12 sucking the air through, the shroud reuced that noise.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekingbeyond*
> 
> I took 2 pci slot covers and bent them into the shape I needed, then screwed the left fan to them, the fans are just cable tied together. The f12 is sitting on an old broken p12 that I gutted to make a fan shroud, there was some air noise from the grill below with f12 sucking the air through, the shroud reuced that noise.


Please explain the PCI slot part, can't quite picture it. Interested in doing this for my GPUs though


----------



## thekingbeyond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Please explain the PCI slot part, can't quite picture it. Interested in doing this for my GPUs though


take 2 covers and bend them through 180 degrees at the yellow corners, when you have done that bend them at the red line through 90 degrees to the right, the red bend will vary depending on the graphics card height. Then screw the fan on the left to the slot cover. Hope that helps


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekingbeyond*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


if you put a side panel on it without vents, wont it starve? or is this an open case use?

airdeano


----------



## thekingbeyond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> if you put a side panel on it without vents, wont it starve? or is this an open case use?
> airdeano


I use a nzxt phantom case, it has a mesh grill on the side panel for a 200mm fan, but with the noctua d14 cooler it won't fit, plenty of air being pulled through the grill onto the graphics cards with the 2 x f12s.


----------



## staryoshi

This is by far the most comprehensive fan packaging I've ever seen







Premium brands entail premium packaging







The included accessories are awesome, too.



I'm running them around 1100 RPM or so and they move a good bit of air on the H100 in push/pull. I'll update with more pictures eventually.


----------



## animal0307

I agreed about the packaging. By far the most detailed I've seen. Their heatsink installation instructions are also top notch.


----------



## airdeano

noctua has always been a retailers dream in packaging, merchandising, and commercial ads.
everyone knows a noctua fan in a case no doubt.

airdeano


----------



## aln688

Does anyone here run a C14 on a 3930K? I'm trying to find some load temperatures using this combination. Thanks.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aln688*
> 
> Does anyone here run a C14 on a 3930K? I'm trying to find some load temperatures using this combination. Thanks.


good question, but noctua doen't list the C14 as applicable on its site. for mounting you might be able to
use the nh-d14 2011 mounting kit. i'd contact noctua about the concerns.
i bet the thinking is that the lower 140 will not install due to the RAM socket. and running a single 140 on
the 2011 socket is half-cooling the job. im still waiting on my second C14 to see if the f12 may strap to
the lower portion. kina like a horizontal d14 single tower.

http://www.noctua.at/pdf/manuals/noctua_nh_c14_manual_en.pdf

airdeano


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aln688*
> 
> Does anyone here run a C14 on a 3930K? I'm trying to find some load temperatures using this combination. Thanks.


I have one but only have a 2500k that I haven't installed it on for any length of time. For the moment I'm using a H50.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> good question, but noctua doen't list the C14 as applicable on its site. for mounting you might be able to
> use the nh-d14 2011 mounting kit. i'd contact noctua about the concerns.
> i bet the thinking is that the lower 140 will not install due to the RAM socket. and running a single 140 on
> the 2011 socket is half-cooling the job. im still waiting on my second C14 to see if the f12 may strap to
> the lower portion. kina like a horizontal d14 single tower.
> http://www.noctua.at/pdf/manuals/noctua_nh_c14_manual_en.pdf
> airdeano


As far as I know all of the Noctua heatsinks use the same SecuFimr2 mounting system so they are cross compatible and If you get a 2011 mount kit it should work. As far as ram height goes check the the compatibility list. My guess is that the more recently packaged heatsinks will come with the 2011 kit because Noctua is a boss like that.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> My guess is that the more recently packaged heatsinks will come with the 2011 kit because Noctua is a boss like that.


i was informed by another compatibility list http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=support_compatibility_lists&lng=en that it'll fit..

airdeano


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Someone here is willing to sell the plugs/cables that you are not using like the extension cables/Y-cable/ under volt cable..????
Let me know...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zGunBLADEz*
> 
> *Someone* here is *willing to sell* the plugs/cables that *you are not using* like the extension cables/Y-cable/ under volt cable.. Let me know...


sell???? do you mean buy????







or are we going to Babylon


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> sell???? do you mean buy????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or are we going to Babylon


Yeah sell.. as i dont need it or want it so i would sell it...


----------



## General_Chris

Noctua NH-D14
2x Noctua NF-P12

Sign me up !!


----------



## ehume

The Nexus NRC-1000 Noise/Speed Reduction cable brings the fan voltage down from 12 Volt to 10 Volt. Free shipping.

7 Watt single channel fan controller. Free shipping.

3-inch 3-pin Y-cable (no rpm line). Free shipping.

12" Black Sleeved 4-Pin PWM Fan Y-Adapter Power Cable. Free shipping. This is the one I use. My first one has had 400+ fan changes and still works great.

Nexus FSA-75 3-Pin Fan Speed Reducer Power Adapter Cable 5V/7V/12V. Free shipping.

Zalman ZM-MC1 3-Pin 5V/12V Multi-Fan Connector Power Adapter Cable. Free shipping. I find it very useful, as I get two 12v and two 5v power sources for case fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zGunBLADEz*
> 
> Yeah sell.. as i dont need it or want it so i would sell it...


Quote:


> *Someone here is* willing to sell the plugs/cables that *you are* not using like the extension cables/Y-cable/ under volt cable.. Let me know...


So if i were you typing it it should read.
Quote:


> *I am* willing to sell the plugs/cables that *I am* not using like the extension cables/Y-cable/ under volt cable.. Let me know..


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *Someone here is* willing to sell the plugs/cables that *you are* not using like the extension cables/Y-cable/ under volt cable.. Let me know...
> 
> 
> 
> So if i were you typing it it should read.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *I am* willing to sell the plugs/cables that *I am* not using like the extension cables/Y-cable/ under volt cable.. Let me know..
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Oh wait.... The power of the "?" .....

lol got it..
Quote:


> Someone here is willing to sell the plugs/cables that you are not using like the extension cables/Y-cable/ under volt cable..*?*
> 
> Let me know...


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Noctua all the way in my computer at the moment!









NH-U12P SE2
NF-S12-1200 (just looked when i bought these and they were $32!? each back in 2008)



And i've got a NF-B9 in my Teamspeak server.

Really interesting to see their active noise canceling prototype fan, would be really nice to have that in the computer.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zGunBLADEz*
> 
> Oh wait.... The power of the "?" .....
> lol got it..
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Someone here is willing to sell the plugs/cables that you are not using like the extension cables/Y-cable/ under volt cable..*?*
> Let me know...
Click to expand...









Hate to admit it, but you are a barrel of laughs.







And I mean that in a very good way.


----------



## ChrisAfric

Hello noctua guys,

any one here who has noctua fans on their sabertooth mobo? I am planning on getting these fans coz I think the color of this would match my sabertooth mobo.

I am still torn between corsair fans and noctua fans.

any recommendation guys? thanks


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisAfric*
> 
> Hello noctua guys,
> any one here who has noctua fans on their sabertooth mobo? I am planning on getting these fans coz I think the color of this would match my sabertooth mobo.
> I am still torn between corsair fans and noctua fans.
> any recommendation guys? thanks





Spoiler: The noctua fans look good on my Sabertooth 990FX


----------



## animal0307

I can't find any good pictures of my setup. Bad camera phone + poor skills = No pictures. So here is one of my memory and Sabertooth P67. You'd have to dig through my build log to find more of what you are looking for. I'm going for a black and browns theme with my case so it's heavy Noctua with a Sabertooth P67 as my board in a Lian Li case.



Club list is now up to date.


----------



## ChrisAfric

that looks awesome! now I am torn with these three fans, Corsair, Noctua, and Gentle Typhoons AP-15!









any reccommendations? I know I am here in the Noctua page but any comments will do. thanks!


----------



## animal0307

My buddy has some GT's and he brought them over one day so we could wire them up into him case and personally I didn't really like the feel of them. They are heavy and solid but kinda feel cheap. The push air and lots of it but they are too loud for my likely at ~70%. What are you planning on using your fans for? Heatsinks, case fans, WC?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> My buddy has some GT's and he brought them over one day so we could wire them up into him case and personally I didn't really like the feel of them. They are heavy and solid but kinda feel cheap. The push air and lots of it but they are too loud for my likely at ~70%. What are you planning on using your fans for? Heatsinks, case fans, WC?


Considering the heaviness of the fans, the cheapness of the plastic is how they keep the cost down. Remember that before the currency changes these fans cost less than $15US, retail.

I have some comparable San Ace Silent fans that came with zero accessories -- no adapter, no screws -- and no plug. I put the plugs on myself. I paid $22US each. They're now up to $23.59US. I'd say Nidec had to save some money somewhere to keep the price below the San Ace fans.


----------



## ChrisAfric

I am using 650D.

I will be using the fans mainly for the following:

Corsair H80 - two fans (push and pull)

intake - I need two fans to be used as intake. It will be placed at the top of my 650D.

I wanted to change the 200m fan placed at the front of my 650d but I think I can't place 120mm or even 140mm at the front.


----------



## bortoloj

I would like join the club =)

NF-P12
NF-S12B FLX
NF-P14 FLX


----------



## animal0307

You're in.


----------



## GoEz

hey guys, long time since i've been on here but i went and overclocked my system to 4.0 today and got into thinking about my cooling setup. i'm have a CM scout with stock cooling, 1x140mm red LED front, 1x140mm top, 1x120mm red LED back.

basically i was planning on getting a NH-D14 for the cpu, replacing the 140mm fans with NF-P14 or NF-F12 PWM (since its $15 on ncix), and probably leaving the red LED in the back since i enjoy the touch of red. i was also thinking if it was possible to mount another fan on the bottom to create a wind tunnel, or if i would just be better off mounting it on the side panel (which i'm currently not using). if i do go the side panel route, how is it on dust since there is no filter? anything to be done for that?

what do you guys think?


----------



## JadedPrimate

Hello guys, I have a question, and I'd be very happy if you would answer it for me. I am putting a system together with a NH-C14, but since I have an Asus sabertooth z77 which only supports PWM for the CPU fan, the stock fans would have to constantly spin at the same speed. I thought it would be a good idea to replace them with NF-P12 PWM fans since I would like my PC to be as quiet as possible, especially when idle. But... From what I have read in a review, the difference in temperature between using the two fans could be quite large at peak.

Now, I am not actually planning to overclock, so I am fine with a small difference, just not too much. Does anyone have any experience with using NF-P12's on the c14, and is it workable, or is it just a downright bad idea?


----------



## Jirne

D14 is on its way, gonna join soon!


----------



## amwayorlando

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JadedPrimate*
> 
> Hello guys, I have a question, and I'd be very happy if you would answer it for me. I am putting a system together with a NH-C14, but since I have an Asus sabertooth z77 which only supports PWM for the CPU fan, the stock fans would have to constantly spin at the same speed. I thought it would be a good idea to replace them with NF-P12 PWM fans since I would like my PC to be as quiet as possible, especially when idle. But... From what I have read in a review, the difference in temperature between using the two fans could be quite large at peak.
> Now, I am not actually planning to overclock, so I am fine with a small difference, just not too much. Does anyone have any experience with using NF-P12's on the c14, and is it workable, or is it just a downright bad idea?


I don't have a NF-P12 but the replaced the 140mm fans came with the C14 with 120mm Gentle Typhoons at 1850 RPM. The higher speed GT actually produced better cooling results compared to the original 140mm fans. On the side note, I think you can plug in the 140mm fans into the PWM socket, and your motherboard would still be able to control the fan speed through different voltage. At least, i'm able to control the speed of the 140mm fans of the C14 with my motherboard's auto fan control function. I have a ASRock P67 Extreme 4.

I've also found that it's more efficient to remove the bottom fan on the C14 to provide more clearance for hot air to be removed. But you also need to add two powerful fans on the rear and top of your case as exhaust fans to move the hot air away from the bottom of the C14 heatsink fast enough.


----------



## JadedPrimate

"On the side note, I think you can plug in the 140mm fans into the PWM socket, and your motherboard would still be able to control the fan speed through different voltage."

On some motherboards this is the case, but sadly not on the Sabertooth z77.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1235016/asus-fanxpert-2-on-z77-motherboards/60

It does support voltage control for the chassis fans, but not for the CPU fan







Someone mentioned connecting the CPU fan to a chassis header, but I have no idea how that would work out.


----------



## amwayorlando

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JadedPrimate*
> 
> "On the side note, I think you can plug in the 140mm fans into the PWM socket, and your motherboard would still be able to control the fan speed through different voltage."
> On some motherboards this is the case, but sadly not on the Sabertooth z77.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1235016/asus-fanxpert-2-on-z77-motherboards/60
> It does support voltage control for the chassis fans, but not for the CPU fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone mentioned connecting the CPU fan to a chassis header, but I have no idea how that would work out.


Using a voltage control capable chassis fan header should work just fine for your CPU fans. I connect my top exhaust fan to one of the CPU fan headers to make it sync with the speed of the CPU fan. It all depends on how you setup your chassis fan control. As long as the fan speed rises fast enough when the CPU gets hot, it should be fine. And the 140mm fans from C14 have long cables. So they should have no problem connecting to your chassis fan headers.


----------



## JadedPrimate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amwayorlando*
> 
> Using a voltage control capable chassis fan header should work just fine for your CPU fans. I connect my top exhaust fan to one of the CPU fan headers to make it sync with the speed of the CPU fan. It all depends on how you setup your chassis fan control. As long as the fan speed rises fast enough when the CPU gets hot, it should be fine. And the 140mm fans from C14 have long cables. So they should have no problem connecting to your chassis fan headers.


Hmm, I will do that then. Thanks for the quick answer!


----------



## Face76

Now if I could replace the H100's fans with Noctua...


----------



## Pittster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> Now if I could replace the H100's fans with Noctua...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


OMG cable management anyway cant see why you couldn't use noctua's but tidy those cables up


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pittster*
> 
> OMG cable management anyway cant see why you couldn't use noctua's but tidy those cables up


Corsair uses what appears to be proprietary connectors for the H100's.

And yeah, I know it's a bit of a mess. You should have seen it last week, was even worse.


----------



## Pittster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> Corsair uses what appears to be proprietary connectors for the H100's.
> And yeah, I know it's a bit of a mess. You should have seen it last week, was even worse.


You could just run the fans off a CPU header and control via software, speed fan or to a fan controller


----------



## RKTGX95

Can anyone in this thread tell me how well the NH-U12P SE2 performs in comparison to the D14 (and with different fans)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Can anyone in this thread tell me how well the NH-U12P SE2 performs in comparison to the D14 (and with different fans)


Had above with 2 TY-140 fans and custom shrouds.. improved cooling by 3c
Changed to Phanteks TC14PE for another 9c improvement.
PC14PE is same / couple degrees better than D14


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Had above with 2 TY-140 fans and custom shrouds.. improved cooling by 3c
> Changed to Phanteks TC14PE for another 9c improvement.
> PC14PE is same / couple degrees better than D14


thanks for the info. im considering to use the Corsair SP120 fans on it, any comments on the theoretical performance ? (btw, why everyone forgot this heatsink?)


----------



## Jirne

Can I join???


----------



## Leyaena

Might as well sign me up while you're at it :3


----------



## shilka

Sory for the crappy photo but this is my PC with a Noctua NH-U12P SE 2 cooer


----------



## ter1430

I <3 Noctua
My Leo-PC :
1 NF-P14 FLX
1 NH-U12P SE2 (so 2 NF-P12)


----------



## animal0307

Club list updated. I must have missed the updates. Sorry it took so long to update.


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pittster*
> 
> You could just run the fans off a CPU header and control via software, speed fan or to a fan controller


Great idea, thanks.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by Pittster View Post
> 
> You could just run the fans off a CPU header and control via software, speed fan or to a fan controller


Works great. Use Akasa or Gelid PWM splitters with molex power socket.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ter1430*
> 
> I <3 Noctua
> My Leo-PC :
> 1 NF-P14 FLX
> 1 NH-U12P SE2 (so 2 NF-P12)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hows that 140mm fan working out for you in the 5.25' bay? Also, if you want to rotate your cpu cooler, you can request it from Noctua for free.

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&setlng=en&products_id=36


----------



## aln688

Does anyone here use a D14 SE2011 with a P9X79-WS board? I'm concerned how close the graphics card would be to the clips for the cooler. Thanks.


----------



## shilka

My Noctua NH-U12P SE 2 cooler


----------



## ViTosS

Would a Noctua DH14 block the RAM slots since I'm using Corsair Vengeance that are high profile? With my Thermaltake Frio it blocks 2 slots from being used


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViTosS*
> 
> Would a Noctua DH14 block the RAM slots since I'm using Corsair Vengeance that are high profile? With my Thermaltake Frio it blocks 2 slots from being used


Remove the heatsink covers and problem solved. All they are is bling.








http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18348208


----------



## ViTosS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Remove the heatsink covers and problem solved. All they are is bling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18348208


But won't that remove the thermal paste or something like that? I got two Kingston HyperX heatsinks here from my previous RAM and they are low profile, maybe they would fit in Vengeance? And what happens if I use the Vengeance without heatsinks?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViTosS*
> 
> But won't that remove the thermal paste or something like that? I got two Kingston HyperX heatsinks here from my previous RAM and they are low profile, maybe they would fit in Vengeance? And what happens if I use the Vengeance without heatsinks?


You don't need heatsinks. They are cosmetic and not really doing much if any heat removal. Some tests have found they actually increased the heat in RAM chips.

Just be careful when removing them. You don't want to pull the memory chips of of the circuit board/stick. Google "remove vengeance heatsink" for how others have done it..


----------



## Fireflash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Added
> 
> Added. I have an R8 too. Not exactly silent, it has that hum/whine that most 80mm fans but compared to others it might as well be silent. Lets see your system. I can't think of many cases that need 80mm fans any more let alone 3.


They're quieter than what I had in there. Actually my case takes 4! It's an OOOOLD Antec case that I bought in like 2003. It's still in great shape and holds everything. Although I have been eyeballing some new cases. I decided to reuse it (again) to save a few bucks on my new rig.


----------



## ter1430

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Hows that 140mm fan working out for you in the 5.25' bay? Also, if you want to rotate your cpu cooler, you can request it from Noctua for free.
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&setlng=en&products_id=36


Thx for this news. I have ask the kit to Nuctua and I have set this one.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ter1430*
> 
> Thx for this news. I have ask the kit to Nuctua and I have set this one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Cool, looks a lot better.


----------



## ElevenEleven

I'm a fan! I have owned 3 fans so far and plan to have more in the future. My current 2 are NF-S12B FLX on the roof of my BitFenix Prodigy. I used an NF-F12 PWM on my CPU cooler in my previous computers for a long time until it was sold with my last rig







I hope to get a two-slot radiator with 2 or 4 NF-F12s on it eventually.


----------



## rievhardt

when you install the HSF... do you really have to take out the motherboard out of the case? My case is NZXT Vulcan and planning to put in a Noctua NH U12P SE2 there on a bottom intake/top exhaust orientation. and...what do you guys do to clean your heatsink? In other forum, they told me that they use running water and a dishwashing liquid. But I don't feel comfortable on that. Can I use Vacuum Cleaner? or that's a bad idea?


----------



## ElevenEleven

If you cannot access the back of your motherboard where the heatsink is attached inside the case - yes, you'll have to take out your motherboard. That's if you're replacing the whole heatsink. If you're just replacing the fan, you don't need to take out the heatsink. It might be a good idea to take it off anyway and clean it well, and reapply thermal paste freshly, if it's been a long time since you did it last.

Use something like a keyboard cleaning brush or an old toothbrush. Once you loosen all the caked in dust everywhere, use a can of compressed air to blow it off. No washing needed. Do this over a trash can, as it will be very dusty, depending on how badly your heatsink is covered.


----------



## ehume

To simply clean the fins of a heatsink, a DataVac 500 or a vacuum cleaner will do. Canned air is too weak. You can also put in a dishwasher.

Cleaning the interface between the heatsink and the cpu involves 91% rubbing alcohol, followed by Arctic Clean. Use coffee filters since they do not shed lint.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> To simply clean the fins of a heatsink, a DataVac 500
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or a vacuum cleaner will do. Canned air is too weak. You can also put in a dishwasher.
> 
> Cleaning the interface between the heatsink and the cpu involves 91% rubbing alcohol, followed by Arctic Clean. Use coffee filters since they do not shed lint.


I would advise taking the heatsink off the motherboard for any serious intervention to not damage anything with static electricity.

Canned air is not too weak once you loosen the dust with a toothbrush or similar. It's much safer and does not require a long soaking / drying period.


----------



## toyz72

heres my noctua setup. i'm really liking the silence.


----------



## ElevenEleven

What are the fan grills for over the two fans on the right side? I can't imagine they do any dust filtering.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> What are the fan grills for over the two fans on the right side? I can't imagine they do any dust filtering.


i didnt want a rogue wire to take out one of my fans. i move it around alot. there accually factory in this case.i even have one for the 140mm top fan. the filters go on the front of the 120's.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Makes sense! Now you just need to paint your case beige and brown to complete the look


----------



## toyz72

lol...noctua sent me some pretty hugh stickers. one of hem are the size of the case door. not a bad idea for power coating:thinking:


----------



## ElevenEleven

Where can I get one of them Noctua stickers!







My case needs one! A reasonably-sized one though.

Edit: found some badges. I shall get one.


----------



## toyz72

i just told them how much i like there stuff and sent them a copy of my invoices.



i already know im a fan boy,lol.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i just told them how much i like there stuff and sent them a copy of my invoices.
> 
> i already know im a fan boy,lol.


Hmm... I should send them a shot of my tower(7) fo P14's. I could use some more tool box bling.

Nice collection btw. I'll get you guys added to the list.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Hmm... I should send them a shot of my tower(7) fo P14's. I could use some more tool box bling.
> 
> Nice collection btw. I'll get you guys added to the list.


thx for adding me. i've been a big noctua fan sence my first d14. just email noctua, they will probally ask you for proof of purchase info. if your like me you can just print it off hisory on newegg or where ever you purchase your pc hardware from.

theres a company on amazon.com i use to get good deals on noctua fans(tyler direct). they run 3 pack deals alot.i got my three 120mm's and a 140mm for $84 shipped. there shipping and customer service is great. they run deals on theses every now and then. check'um out some time.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Makes sense! Now you just need to paint your case beige and brown to complete the look


I'd be even more impressed , if someone gets a huge azz'd tattoo of the Noctua logo on their chest

Be Proud and Say it LOUD


----------



## ElevenEleven

Well, I'm patiently awaiting some Noctua logo stuff in the mail and shall have a nice badge gracing my case soon!


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> I'd be even more impressed , if someone gets a huge azz'd tattoo of the Noctua logo on their chest
> Be Proud and Say it LOUD


i know your a noctua fan. i followed your build in the fractal design club. i think it was refered to as the ...noctua totum pole. are you still rockin your fd case,and noctua fans?


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Well, I'm patiently awaiting some Noctua logo stuff in the mail and shall have a nice badge gracing my case soon!


i see you emailed them?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i see you emailed them?


Indeed, I have!


----------



## animal0307

Look what's to come on the horizon.

www.techpowerup.com/mobile/167685/Noctua-Unveils-Noise-Canceling-Fan-and-More-Innovations-at-Computex.html


----------



## ElevenEleven

I can't wait! I want a 140mm fan and 4 new 120mm fans! (planning on 4 NF-F12 PWMs for push/pull, or 4 NF-P12s - not sure yet -- but the new and improved fans would be even better!)


----------



## nagle3092

About time they update their single towers. Looking forward to the 140!


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I can't wait! I want a 140mm fan and 4 new 120mm fans! (planning on 4 NF-F12 PWMs for push/pull, or 4 NF-P12s - not sure yet -- but the new and improved fans would be even better!)


Me either. I've wanted the new NF-F12's for a while now. And I may sell off my fans and upgrade to the new ones. Speaking of want P14's you want to buy 4 of mine to fund my upgrade?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> About time they update their single towers. Looking forward to the 140!


I'd love to have the new 140's. Wonder if they are going to be any more efficient and quieter? Also wonder if they still use the hybrid mounting system. It would be nice it they were standard holes with out the adapters. Or maybe have both sets of holes in the frame. The pictures in that article make it look like they aren't even square.

I got better chane to skim thet article. Does it look like there are two 140mm fans? Also is it just me or does it look like that smallest fan on the right is smaller than 80mm? I would buy one if it's 50mm just for my sabertooth even if it cost $20.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Hmm







Thanks for the offer, I'll send you a PM. I'm about to try out one of the new 140mm Phanteks today, which are supposed to be similar to Noctua's P14 FLX, which I'm only trying because they come in full white and match my mini case (with a window).


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I got better chane to skim thet article. Does it look like there are two 140mm fans? Also is it just me or does it look like that smallest fan on the right is smaller than 80mm? I would buy one if it's 50mm just for my sabertooth even if it cost $20.


Was on my Ipod with a terribly small picture. Why does the small one have to be 40mm!?







I would so buy it for my Sabertooth if it was 50mm.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Hmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the offer, I'll send you a PM. I'm about to try out one of the new 140mm Phanteks today, which are supposed to be similar to Noctua's P14 FLX, which I'm only trying because they come in full white and match my mini case (with a window).


your about to waste your money on that phantek fan. i bought one and gave it away. it seemed that all the air was pushing to the outside of the fan. let me know what you think about it?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Yeah, I'd read that, and I noticed it yesterday after the instalation as well, but it's purpose is to push air out of the case - I don't care if that air is collimated once it's out. Certainly quieter than the Spectre Pro of the same size it replaced, but not super quiet overall (silent at low RPM, but most fans are). Maybe by the time Noctua comes out with its new fans, they'll be sold for reasonable prices, and I'll get one of the new A-series 140mm ones for rear exhaust, along with new 120mm PWM NF-F12s.


----------



## doyll

When I installed my TC14 it didn't have the PWM adapter so I put my TY-140 fans on it. About a month ago I decided to try the stock fans.. temps went up a little but with summer heat and all... keep in mind running passive on prime CPU maxes at 72c







I noticed my NB was running low 50's but attributed it to summer heat as well.

Today I put my TY-140s back on... and NB temps dropped 7-8c.. CPU dropped 4-5c.... and I'm idling at 700rpm now instead of 750rpm... and it's quieter!

I have 4x TY-140 fans and 2x TY-143 fans. Need more TY-143s.. Red housing matches my red TC14 and orange looks good in my black case


----------



## toyz72

so when do you think we can expect to see theses new products? i'm really interested in the newer tower coolers.


----------



## Elohim

they said at the end of the year.


----------



## shilka

Am looking forward to the new NH-U14 or whatever they will call it


----------



## mironccr345

Just finished my server rig. I love these fans!


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Just finished my server rig. I love these fans!


looks good. what cpu cooler you have on that? a coolmaster?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> looks good. what cpu cooler you have on that? a coolmaster?


Yup, it's a CoolerMaster GeminII S524. I was going to use the Noctua NH-U9B SE2 for this rig, but decided to use the CM cooler and slap on a NF-P12. I wanted to get the NH-C12P-SE14, But I figured the CoolerMaster and the Noc fan would be ok since I already have it.


----------



## toyz72

i wanted to pick up that cooler for my build. if they would have made the outside frame removable ,i would have bought it. it would have been a much cheaper solution to. i also like fractal design cases. i have an arc mini in the closet.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i wanted to pick up that cooler for my build. if they would have made the outside frame removable ,i would have bought it. it would have been a much cheaper solution to. i also like fractal design cases. i have an arc mini in the closet.


Cool, what's it doing in your closet?







I like the the look of the down blowing fans, plus it's doubles as a mobo and ram cooler.


----------



## Badness

I was thinking of picking up a nh-c14. However, I keep changing my mind, because of such wildly varying reviews.
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Noctua-NH-C14-CPU-Cooler-Review/1210/6
http://www.techspot.com/review/475-cpu-cooler-comparison/page5.html
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/noctua-nh-c14_5.html
http://img.nyleveia.com/2011/08/tempcharts2.jpg
The xbit one has a different orientation, but the case was open in the testing. Can anyone here who owns one talk to me about it?


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badness*
> 
> I was thinking of picking up a nh-c14. However, I keep changing my mind, because of such wildly varying reviews.
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Noctua-NH-C14-CPU-Cooler-Review/1210/6
> http://www.techspot.com/review/475-cpu-cooler-comparison/page5.html
> http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/noctua-nh-c14_5.html
> http://img.nyleveia.com/2011/08/tempcharts2.jpg
> The xbit one has a different orientation, but the case was open in the testing. Can anyone here who owns one talk to me about it?


i use the nh-c12p se14,but if i could have fit the ch14 in there i would have. my case wouldn't allow it(lian li v354). i'm not an overclocker,but in my small case it keeps me in the 50c range gaming. what case are you looking to put the ch14 in?

my cpu cooler,and case fans are all noctua. i choose noctua for silence and there build quality. they also have a nice warranty.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Cool, what's it doing in your closet?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the the look of the down blowing fans, plus it's doubles as a mobo and ram cooler.


i might be moving back into my arc mini soon. i want to turn my lian li into media pc for the wife. thinking about using trinity for that build.


----------



## Badness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badness*
> 
> I was thinking of picking up a nh-c14. However, I keep changing my mind, because of such wildly varying reviews.
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Noctua-NH-C14-CPU-Cooler-Review/1210/6
> http://www.techspot.com/review/475-cpu-cooler-comparison/page5.html
> http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/noctua-nh-c14_5.html
> http://img.nyleveia.com/2011/08/tempcharts2.jpg
> The xbit one has a different orientation, but the case was open in the testing. Can anyone here who owns one talk to me about it?


Well, I go to a really "hood" college now, instead of my community college, and next time I go home I'd like to mod an HP case and put my rig into it, I essentially will hide it in plain sight. I am going to put my matx board in a matx case for the first time, and I don't have the clearance for my silver arrow anymore. Right now, my rig is at my house, 8 hours away by car.

So right now I am selling my Silver Arrow and Shaman from Thermalright because they're too big.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badness*
> 
> Well, I go to a really "hood" college now, instead of my community college, and next time I go home I'd like to mod an HP case and put my rig into it, I essentially will hide it in plain sight. I am going to put my matx board in a matx case for the first time, and I don't have the clearance for my silver arrow anymore. Right now, my rig is at my house, 8 hours away by car.
> So right now I am selling my Silver Arrow and Shaman from Thermalright because they're too big.


theses coolers are great in tight places. i also like the fact that it blows air across my heatsinks and ram. if you decide to do,put a pic up for us to see.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i might be moving back into my arc mini soon. i want to turn my lian li into media pc for the wife. thinking about using trinity for that build.


That would be a nice little pc for the wifey. I'm also thinking about down sizing my wife's NZXT rig for a SFF build. I've been looking at the BitFenix Prodigy case.


----------



## nagle3092

http://www.techpowerup.com/173060/Noctua-Introduces-40-60-and-92-mm-A-series-Fans.html

New fans released, the 92mm looks rather enticing.


----------



## Sazexa

Count me in!
I've got an NH-D14 coming in on Thursday!

Quick question though;
Is there a way to trick my CPU fan sensor?
Can I place say a fan wire extension on the CPU fan pin spot, that is not connected to an actual fan?
I'd like to put both of my fans on my NH-D14 connected to my fan controller.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/173060/Noctua-Introduces-40-60-and-92-mm-A-series-Fans.html
> New fans released, the 92mm looks rather enticing.


Holy crap! The 40mm fan costs $16us!

@Sezexa. Yes you can just use and extension for the sensor wire and plug itinto the Mobo pin and then the power into your fan controller. There are some moped to 3pm. Adapters that do this without modding your fan cable. They may have some 3pin extensions like that too but you could probably make one by pulling out the sensor wire and sticking it in a spare female plug.


----------



## mironccr345

NF-P12's are pretty cheap on Amazon. Thinking of getting a couple more.


----------



## Face76

In case anyone missed the thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1312760/newegg-20-off-all-fans/0_20


----------



## Frozenoblivion

Love to Join.
NF F12


----------



## Cyril279

join pleez.

I stuffed a NH-L12 into a HP DC7700 (minus the NF-F12-PWM)

so if anyone is looking for an NF-F12-PWM, L.N.A, y-splitter, extension cable, screws and silicone mounts -brand new and cheap, pm-me.

I'm lookin for one of the new A92-14 's to add a touch of positive pressure to an already narrow scenario.


----------



## Dynastyy

would like to join

NH-D14


----------



## animal0307

Everyone should be up to date.


----------



## jlhawn

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-Cooling-Fan/dp/B00632FL8Alook at the price of these!! I ordered 2. their 26 bucks at new egg but only 20 bucks at Amazon


----------



## Tator Tot

Platinum Micro actually has the best price on those, $18


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> Platinum Micro actually has the best price on those, $18


Rats!


----------



## animal0307

Those aren't the same guys. The amazon ones are the NF-*F*12. the Micro place are NF-*P*12


----------



## jlhawn

I hope the 2 fans i ordered are as good as they say as I have never owned any Noctua fans, i have a corsair vengance c70 case that has a front filter that is such a tight mesh that every fan i have tried struggles to pull air through them theres mounting for 2 fans up front and the pair i have now are the new corsair SP high performance they pull air through the filter kinda good but they are 35db they are hooked to my mother board and i can control them with my asus fan xpert software but at low speed they don't pull air very good and they are designed for pulling air through radiators heatsinks and filters but at max speed they are LOUD!!! anyways i read so much about the Noctua NF-F12 i think they will be the ones that work and their only 24db at full speed which i can live with.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Those aren't the same guys. The amazon ones are the NF-*F*12. the Micro place are NF-*P*12


just saw that as i looked them up so i'm good with what i ordered


----------



## Nocturin

I have one!


----------



## Cyril279

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> You can control a PWM fan by in essence interrupting the 12v current flow to the fan. There are/were some fan controllers that used this method rather than Voltage control. But not all fans take kindly to this. They have their own circuitry, after all.
> 
> The 4-wire fan that is designed for PWM control receives a 5v signal from a fan controller -- motherboard or purpose built controller (example). The 5v signal runs from 0 to 100% "duty." From that the fan's PCB tells it how fast to spin...


I understand this to mean that: 75% duty cycle of a 4000rpm max fan spins the fan at 3000rpm

Regarding noctua pwm fans, does their "low noise adapter" (LNA) simply limit the maximum speed of the fan, or does it change the entire operating range?

example: at 75% duty cycle of a 4000rpm fan using 2800rpm L.N.A., would the fan spin at 2800rpm (LNA max rpm) *or* at 2100 rpm (75% of LNA max rpm)?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyril279*
> 
> I understand this to mean that: 75% duty cycle of a 4000rpm max fan spins the fan at 3000rpm
> Regarding noctua pwm fans, does their "low noise adapter" (LNA) simply limit the maximum speed of the fan, or does it change the entire operating range?
> example: at 75% duty cycle of a 4000rpm fan using 2800rpm L.N.A., would the fan spin at 2800rpm (LNA max rpm) *or* at 2100 rpm (75% of LNA max rpm)?


The LNA / ULNA are voltage reduction cables.

They cannot be used with PWM control though. So duty cycle would not apply.


----------



## Angelus359

i totally used a lna adapter with pwm control. works fine. It lowers max speed


----------



## Tator Tot

No, it doesn't. You need the 4th wire to communicate with the PWM IC on the fan.

You can apply a PWM signal to the fan by pulsing the 12v at various intervals to the fan; but in the end, the fan is still being undervolted when using a LNA or ULNA.


----------



## Cyril279

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> No, it doesn't. You need the 4th wire to communicate with the PWM IC on the fan.
> 
> You can apply a PWM signal to the fan by pulsing the 12v at various intervals to the fan; but in the end, the fan is still being undervolted when using a LNA or ULNA.


Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but it sounds like you're saying that the fourth wire is still applying a pwm signal to an undervolted fan. Would this not result in a fan that is pwm controlled at lower speeds?

pulsing seven volts should yield a slower fan speed than pulsing twelve, but it's still controlled by the pulse, no?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyril279*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> You can control a PWM fan by in essence interrupting the 12v current flow to the fan. There are/were some fan controllers that used this method rather than Voltage control. But not all fans take kindly to this. They have their own circuitry, after all.
> 
> The 4-wire fan that is designed for PWM control receives a 5v signal from a fan controller -- motherboard or purpose built controller (example). The 5v signal runs from 0 to 100% "duty." From that the fan's PCB tells it how fast to spin...
> 
> 
> 
> I understand this to mean that: 75% duty cycle of a 4000rpm max fan spins the fan at 3000rpm
> 
> Regarding noctua pwm fans, does their "low noise adapter" (LNA) simply limit the maximum speed of the fan, or does it change the entire operating range?
> 
> example: at 75% duty cycle of a 4000rpm fan using 2800rpm L.N.A., would the fan spin at 2800rpm (LNA max rpm) *or* at 2100 rpm (75% of LNA max rpm)?
Click to expand...

Duty cycle means the percent of time the fan is receiving 5v as it switches from 0v to 5v. As for what speed it runs, that is up to the programming in the fan's PCB. Noctua PWM fans are in fact designed to run proportional to the PWM signal -- 0% duty corresponding to 0 rpm, 25% duty corresponding to 25% speed, etc. Other fans will have, say, 50% speed at 0% duty. That's actually fairly common.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyril279*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> No, it doesn't. You need the 4th wire to communicate with the PWM IC on the fan.
> 
> You can apply a PWM signal to the fan by pulsing the 12v at various intervals to the fan; but in the end, the fan is still being undervolted when using a LNA or ULNA.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but it sounds like you're saying that the fourth wire is still applying a pwm signal to an undervolted fan. Would this not result in a fan that is pwm controlled at lower speeds?
> 
> pulsing seven volts should yield a slower fan speed than pulsing twelve, but it's still controlled by the pulse, no?
Click to expand...

Scythe has some PWM fans where you can change their speed ranges with Voltage. Deepcool fans (PWM) change their speeds when you put them on the 7v adapter, yet still respond to PWM control. No reason Noctua fans shouldn't work the same.

One caveat: the main Voltage has to be high enough to make the fan go. With the Deepcool fans on 7v, for example, they will not respond to PWM signals at less than 50% duty.

HTH.


----------



## jlhawn

now i am confused, I have 2 of these fans that will be hear friday, i am going to plug each fan into it's own 3pin mother board fan header that i controll my 2 current fans with asus fan xpert. are the 2 Noctuas going to work for me in a 3pin fan header??


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> now i am confused, I have 2 of these fans that will be hear friday, i am going to plug each fan into it's own 3pin mother board fan header that i controll my 2 current fans with asus fan xpert. are the 2 Noctuas going to work for me in a 3pin fan header??


Sure they will work. But you can control fans connected by 3pin only with Voltage. You need the 4pin PWM connection to control them with PWM.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> now i am confused, I have 2 of these fans that will be hear friday, i am going to plug each fan into it's own 3pin mother board fan header that i controll my 2 current fans with asus fan xpert. are the 2 Noctuas going to work for me in a 3pin fan header??


They work just fine; but Noctua PWM fans come with a 3 pin adapter for the LNA / ULNA. The fan itself has a 4th pin for the PWM function but 3 other pins like a standard fan.

3 Pin transmits:

Voltage

RPM

Ground

The 4th pin missing from the LNA / ULNA adapters is the PWM wire that transmits the PWM signal to the fan.

It'll work just fine with the LNA / ULNA on a 3pin or 4pin header from the board; but the fan is not receiving the PWM duty cycle signal, and instead the board is pulsing 12v to the fan to reduce the fan speed based on the frequency of the pulses.


----------



## jlhawn

cool thanks everyone, I kinda figured they would work as the 2 fans i have in the 3pin headers now are 4pin, my mother board has only 2 4pin headers and 1 is for the cpu cooler fan and the other 1 is for the case exhaust fan so when case temp gets a little warm the bios will turn the exhaust fan up for me but my asus fan xpert allows me to controll all the 3 pin headers which is 4 and if i disable the 2 4pin headers in the bios i can control the 2 4pin headers and all the 3 pin headers with asus fan xpert which is a nice feature.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> now i am confused, I have 2 of these fans that will be hear friday, i am going to plug each fan into it's own 3pin mother board fan header that i controll my 2 current fans with asus fan xpert. are the 2 Noctuas going to work for me in a 3pin fan header??
> 
> 
> 
> They work just fine; but Noctua PWM fans come with a 3 pin adapter for the LNA / ULNA. The fan itself has a 4th pin for the PWM function but 3 other pins like a standard fan.
> 
> 3 Pin transmits:
> 
> Voltage
> 
> RPM
> 
> Ground
> 
> The 4th pin missing from the LNA / ULNA adapters is the PWM wire that transmits the PWM signal to the fan.
> 
> It'll work just fine with the LNA / ULNA on a 3pin or 4pin header from the board; but the fan is not receiving the PWM duty cycle signal, and instead the board is pulsing 12v to the fan to reduce the fan speed based on the frequency of the pulses.
Click to expand...

I just went downstairs and looked. I have in retail boxes the NF-F12 PWM and the NF-P12 PWM. I am also testing the NH-L12. All have 4-pin Low Noise adapters.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> I just went downstairs and looked. I have in retail boxes the NF-F12 PWM and the NF-P12 PWM. I am also testing the NH-L12. All have 4-pin Low Noise adapters.


My F12 PWM came with a 3pin LNA. Probably a packaging error.

Still, a 3pin connection wouldn't work because of the missing 4th pin. If yours has 4 pins, then it would work fine.


----------



## Cyril279

That does indeed significantly help my understanding Ehume, thanks for taking the time to lay it all out.

I certainly understand that without the fourth pin, whether at the fan or the adapter, PWM is out of the question.

Both of my LNA's have four pins.


----------



## Droviin

Here is my NH-D14 installed in my sig rig. I also have a NF-P12 and 2xNF-R8s


----------



## Dynastyy

is there a difference if i put the nh-d14 the other way cause that's were i have it


----------



## doyll

Yeah, big difference.

This way blows back and your way blows up.









Honestly, the ability to cool is the same. It's just where cooler draws air from and where it exhausts are different.

I originally ran my Phanteks exiting top because of exhaust vent sizes (120mm back and 2x 140mm top). Now I've cut out my back vent and turned it to the back. Temps are the same.


----------



## Dynastyy

yea i have a big exaust fan on the top soo


----------



## Leyaena

Would like to update my Noctua loadout!

I now have:

*Heatsink:*
- NH-D14

*Case Fans:*
- NF-S12B (x3)
- NF-P14 (x2)


----------



## animal0307

Updated. I think I got the amounts correct


----------



## Burned

Hi guys, at the moment I only have 2 NF-R8s but plan on buying the NH-L12 seeing all the great reviews. Does anyone own this, and if so what do you think of it?


----------



## Cyril279

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Burned*
> 
> Hi guys, at the moment I only have 2 NF-R8s but plan on buying the NH-L12 seeing all the great reviews. Does anyone own this, and if so what do you think of it?


I own it, and love it

it lives in a narrow htpc case, so I had to ditch the included 120 top-fan, but the remaining 92 easily cools the 65nm e6600 core2duo sufficiently.

I'm not an overclocker. I allow slightly warmer idle temps (45c) to keep the fan rpm's as low (quiet) as possible. I modded an OEM machine, so I'm forced to use SpeedFan to control the PWM curve, but it works extremely well.

Using intelburn as the stress test (set to high), the 92 alone, BELOW %100 duty cycle, can stabilize the cores around 50c.


----------



## Frozenoblivion

I have a Noctua NF F12 PWN fan.


----------



## Burned

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyril279*
> 
> I own it, and love it
> it lives in a narrow htpc case, so I had to ditch the included 120 top-fan, but the remaining 92 easily cools the 65nm e6600 core2duo sufficiently.
> I'm not an overclocker. I allow slightly warmer idle temps (45c) to keep the fan rpm's as low (quiet) as possible. I modded an OEM machine, so I'm forced to use SpeedFan to control the PWM curve, but it works extremely well.
> Using intelburn as the stress test (set to high), the 92 alone, BELOW %100 duty cycle, can stabilize the cores around 50c.


Thanks for the info, I'm probably only going to attempt mild overclocking as the case is fairly small, but hopefully both fans will fit in it (Going in the Node 605 case). Pretty impressed with the build quality so far of Noctua, worth the price.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Any recent news on how soon the updated NF-F12 will be released? I'm looking to get 2 radiator fans, and those would really be handy now! Q3/Q4 of next year is so far away


----------



## animal0307

I don't think they are updating the NF-F12 yet. I know they are updating the NF-S12 for a third time. Still not sure when though. Let me get some food and coffee in me and I'll do some digging.


----------



## Tator Tot

None of the fans are getting updated, they're putting out a new series (A Series)

http://www.techpowerup.com/167685/Noctua-Unveils-Noise-Canceling-Fan-and-More-Innovations-at-Computex.html


----------



## ElevenEleven

That's the article I'd read and noticed a mention of the new RotoSub technology for NF-F12s, coming in the future, hence the "updated NF-F12"

_The highlight at this year's line-up was the first public demonstration of a working prototype of Noctua's NF-F12 fan with integrated RotoSub Active Noise Cancellation (ANC) technology. The development goal for Noctua's recently announced partnership with RotoSub is to speed up the award-winning NF-F12 120mm fan from 1500 to 2500rpm and to achieve a broadband sound signature that sounds more agreeable to the human ear as well as a similar overall sound pressure level as the original 1500rpm NF-F12 fan, resulting in 80% more airflow and 120% higher static pressure at the same noise level. The first prototype shown at Computex 2012 represents a first proof of concept that demonstrates how tonal noise components can be reduced using RotoSub ANC. *Noctua and RotoSub aim to have first products with this technology ready for the market by Q3/Q4 2013*._

Quite far away


----------



## Tator Tot

They're also making the fan 1500-2500 RPM instead of 300-1500.

So it's not the same NF-F12, it's going to have a new model number to indicate it's noise canceling option as well as faster speed.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> They're also making the fan 1500-2500 RPM instead of 300-1500.
> 
> So it's not the same NF-F12, it's going to have a new model number to indicate it's noise canceling option as well as faster speed.


I just bought 2 NF-F12 PWM fans and the specs say min speed is 300rpm using PWM but the speed with the included resistor is 1200 rpm and without is 1500 rpm, my 2 are currently running at 1498 rpm and they are connected to 2 mother board fan headers. Noctua told me the 300 rpm in the specs means that this is the slowest the fan can run and run correctly to move air it is not it's standard low speed with a resistor rpm.

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en&set=1


----------



## ehume

NF-F12's are PWM fans. They run at 300 rpm when told to do so by your motherboard. Set it up to control fans with PWM and you will see that slow speed on idle.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> NF-F12's are PWM fans. They run at 300 rpm when told to do so by your motherboard. Set it up to control fans with PWM and you will see that slow speed on idle.


on my ASUS Sabertooth they only run at either 1200rpm or 1500rpm.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Are you connecting them to the PWM CPU header? Each motherboard has its own settings for each chassis fan header and software to handle them. You may need special software, like SpeedFan, to enable full control of your fans - if even possible. For example, an AM3 Gigabyte motherboard I had did not allow any chassis fan control beyond automatic and did whatever it wanted with the fans connected to those headers. I could only control the CPU fan.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Are you connecting them to the PWM CPU header? Each motherboard has its own settings for each chassis fan header and software to handle them. You may need special software, like SpeedFan, to enable full control of your fans - if even possible. For example, an AM3 Gigabyte motherboard I had did not allow any chassis fan control beyond automatic and did whatever it wanted with the fans connected to those headers. I could only control the CPU fan.


I have 3 choices in the bios for case fans which are performance, turbo, or silent, and none will crank the fans to full speed therefore I choose to disable the case fans in the bios and let them run full speed at 1500rpm as Noctua fans are so silent I check them once in awhile to make sure their running, my single cpu fan is louder then my 2 Noctua fans. I can also run all my fans with ASUS fanxpert but that program is kinda buggy as sometimes it would out of the blue turn off all my case fans and I would have to reboot to get them going again, I also have my 4 pin cpu cooler fan control disabled in the bios also and just let it run full speed of 2200rpm and I am happy with the noise it's not too bad.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Well, I'm tempted to say it's just down to how your motherboard controls fans. This is a major reason why I personally got a fan controller myself: my current ASRock Z77E-ITX is odd about fan control, even PWM, so I prefer to control my fans exactly without battling with BIOS settings and SpeedFan (which wasn't quite working for me anyway).


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> NF-F12's are PWM fans. They run at 300 rpm when told to do so by your motherboard. Set it up to control fans with PWM and you will see that slow speed on idle.
> 
> 
> 
> on my ASUS Sabertooth they only run at either 1200rpm or 1500rpm.
Click to expand...

I have an As.s board myself. I've been following As.s boards. Either you can set up fan control in your BIOS or your HiFi (or whatever they call that thing) at bootup, or you can get AI to set up a fan control profile. Just make sure you plug your fan in to one of the controllable headers. Trust me, As.s will give you a way to get your full range from a PWM fan.


----------



## jlhawn

I am happy with no fan control software and with the bios fan control disabled with all my fans running on the full 12volts and this way I have no worrys. my 2 intake fans and my 1 exhaust fan and my memory sticks fan are all plugged into mother board fan headers and run on the full 12volt, also my cpu fan is on the 4 pin cpu header running full 12volt. my 2 top exhaust fans are hooked directly to the psu so they run at full 12volt and my computer is pretty quiet so it works for me. I have a northbridge fan header but don't have a fan as the sabertooth x58 heatsink only has a single hole for a screw and besides my nb is 45c at idle and 58c while gaming so it's o.k. without a fan as intel has a x58 temp spec document on their site and I think it can go as high as 90c or more or less not sure anymore it's been awhile since I read it but I know my nb temps are good.


----------



## Cyril279

To each his own i guess, I would always prefer a software (or bios) controlled pwm setup, where even a sheisty fan curve can provide a maintance-free balance of thermal stability system, and low noise levels, at whatever load you can apply to the machine.

...my perspective is fueled by the challenge of making sure that all the machines in the house maintain a high SAF*

but again, to each his own.

(Spousal Acceptance Factor)


----------



## Pittster

I have ASUS mobo and run my CPU fans off PWM and my 5 Case fan's off the Chassis connectors and I control there speeds via the Fan xpert software under 36 Deg all fan run at 20%-40% (webbrowsing watching movies) then above 42 Deg they go 100% (gaming encoding)

I wouldn't have it any way, it's a bit strange but when your playing some of the latest games and the fans are idling at 20-40% and you can't here fan noise


----------



## doyll

All my fans are TY-14x PWM fans. All are controlled by CPU_fan PWM. 3x case fans and 2x cooler fans. Idle 660rpm @ 24c and full load is 1050rpm @ 48c. Thats running cpu at 100% for extended periods of time encoding. For all intents and purpose the system is silent in normal use. I use Gelid PWM splitters to connect fans and Gigabyte ET6 on X58A-UD5.


----------



## mironccr345

*Some news about the new 140mm NF fans.*

"Vienna, November 20th 2012 - Noctua today introduced its new NF-A14 FLX, NF-A14 ULN and NF-A15 PWM 140mm fans that complement the recently announced A-series of premium quality quiet fans. Like the previously presented NF-A4x10, NF-A6x25 and NF-A9x14, the new 140mm models feature Noctua's novel AAO frames as well as the series' signature Flow Acceleration Channels for reduced boundary layer separation and improved aerodynamic efficiency. Reference class SSO2 bearing and 6 years manufacturer's warranty make the NF-A15 and NF-A14 a stand-out choice for all noise-sensitive 140mm applications.

"Introduced in 2009, our NF-P14 has become a default-choice among PC enthusiasts looking for a premium quality, quiet 140mm fan, so we're excited to further improve its much acclaimed airflow to noise ratio with the new NF-A14 and NF-A15", says Mag. Roland Mossig, Noctua CEO. "The A14 and A15 models all sport the key features of our new A-series fans and now come in both round and square frame design."

Whereas the NF-A15's round frame features 120mm mounting holes (105mm spacing) and has been enlarged to a width of 150mm in order to provide superior performance on today's high-end CPU coolers, the NF-A14 models' square shape and 140mm mounting holes (124.5mm spacing) make them ideal for use on watercooling radiators or as an upgrade for 140mm case fans.

Tailor-made for use on CPU coolers, the NF-A15 PWM comes with Noctua's custom designed NE-FD1 PWM IC for fully automatic speed control. The NF-A14 comes in FLX and ULN versions with 1200/1050/900 and 800/650 speed settings for full flexibility in quiet to ultra-quiet case and radiator cooling.

Like all new A-series fans, the NF-A15 and NF-A14 use a novel aerodynamic design measure called Flow Acceleration Channels that allows them to significantly improve the airflow to noise performance of conventional, uniform blade shapes. By speeding up the airflow at the crucial outer blade regions, Flow Acceleration Channels reduce suction side flow separation and thus lead to better efficiency and lower vortex noise.

All three fans employ the further optimised second generation of Noctua's renowned, time-tested SSO bearing as well as Noctua's AAO (Advanced Acoustic Optimisation) frames that feature integrated anti-vibration pads as well as Noctua's proprietary Stepped Inlet Design and Inner Surface Microstructures, both of which further refine the fans' performance/noise efficiency. Like all Noctua fans, the NF-A15 and NF-A14 have an MTBF rating of more than 150.000 hours and come with a full 6 years manufacturer's warranty.

Pricing and availability
The new fans will be available immediately at recommended retail prices of EUR 21.90 / USD 24.90.

About Noctua
Designed in Austria, Noctua's premium cooling components are internationally renowned for their superb quietness, exceptional performance and thoroughgoing quality. Having received more than 1000 awards and recommendations from leading hardware websites and magazines, Noctua's fans and heatsinks are chosen by more than a hundred thousand satisfied customers around the globe."

Links
Press-Release: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=news_list&news_id=81&lng=en
Video: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productvideos&products_id=52
Photos NF-A14 FLX: http://www.noctua.at/inc/imageviewer.php?item=52
Photos NF-A14 ULN: http://www.noctua.at/inc/imageviewer.php?item=53
Photos NF-A15 PWM: http://www.noctua.at/inc/imageviewer.php?item=54
Details NF-A14 FLX: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=52
Details NF-A14 ULN: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=53
Details NF-A15 PWM: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=54


----------



## animal0307

Quote:
Originally Posted by *mironccr345* 

*Some news about the new 140mm NF fans.*




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




"Vienna, November 20th 2012 - Noctua today introduced its new NF-A14 FLX, NF-A14 ULN and NF-A15 PWM 140mm fans that complement the recently announced A-series of premium quality quiet fans. Like the previously presented NF-A4x10, NF-A6x25 and NF-A9x14, the new 140mm models feature Noctua's novel AAO frames as well as the series' signature Flow Acceleration Channels for reduced boundary layer separation and improved aerodynamic efficiency. Reference class SSO2 bearing and 6 years manufacturer's warranty make the NF-A15 and NF-A14 a stand-out choice for all noise-sensitive 140mm applications.
"Introduced in 2009, our NF-P14 has become a default-choice among PC enthusiasts looking for a premium quality, quiet 140mm fan, so we're excited to further improve its much acclaimed airflow to noise ratio with the new NF-A14 and NF-A15", says Mag. Roland Mossig, Noctua CEO. "The A14 and A15 models all sport the key features of our new A-series fans and now come in both round and square frame design."
Whereas the NF-A15's round frame features 120mm mounting holes (105mm spacing) and has been enlarged to a width of 150mm in order to provide superior performance on today's high-end CPU coolers, the NF-A14 models' square shape and 140mm mounting holes (124.5mm spacing) make them ideal for use on watercooling radiators or as an upgrade for 140mm case fans.
Tailor-made for use on CPU coolers, the NF-A15 PWM comes with Noctua's custom designed NE-FD1 PWM IC for fully automatic speed control. The NF-A14 comes in FLX and ULN versions with 1200/1050/900 and 800/650 speed settings for full flexibility in quiet to ultra-quiet case and radiator cooling.
Like all new A-series fans, the NF-A15 and NF-A14 use a novel aerodynamic design measure called Flow Acceleration Channels that allows them to significantly improve the airflow to noise performance of conventional, uniform blade shapes. By speeding up the airflow at the crucial outer blade regions, Flow Acceleration Channels reduce suction side flow separation and thus lead to better efficiency and lower vortex noise.
All three fans employ the further optimised second generation of Noctua's renowned, time-tested SSO bearing as well as Noctua's AAO (Advanced Acoustic Optimisation) frames that feature integrated anti-vibration pads as well as Noctua's proprietary Stepped Inlet Design and Inner Surface Microstructures, both of which further refine the fans' performance/noise efficiency. Like all Noctua fans, the NF-A15 and NF-A14 have an MTBF rating of more than 150.000 hours and come with a full 6 years manufacturer's warranty.
Pricing and availability
The new fans will be available immediately at recommended retail prices of EUR 21.90 / USD 24.90.
About Noctua
Designed in Austria, Noctua's premium cooling components are internationally renowned for their superb quietness, exceptional performance and thoroughgoing quality. Having received more than 1000 awards and recommendations from leading hardware websites and magazines, Noctua's fans and heatsinks are chosen by more than a hundred thousand satisfied customers around the globe."
Links
Press-Release: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=news_list&news_id=81&lng=en
Video: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productvideos&products_id=52
Photos NF-A14 FLX: http://www.noctua.at/inc/imageviewer.php?item=52
Photos NF-A14 ULN: http://www.noctua.at/inc/imageviewer.php?item=53
Photos NF-A15 PWM: http://www.noctua.at/inc/imageviewer.php?item=54
Details NF-A14 FLX: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=52
Details NF-A14 ULN: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=53
Details NF-A15 PWM: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=54





+1 for the link. Thanks for posting it. I haven't been keeping with Noctua's release schedule lately. The A14 looks to be a promising replacement for the P14. It will be inresting to see how the A15 gets implemented into the Heatsink market. It looks more specialized then the P14 was and I don't see it being usable on anything other than D14.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Thank you for the update! Looking forward to seeing these in stores!


----------



## shilka

My Noctua NH-U12P SE2


----------



## doyll

Beautiful build shilka









Now about those funky (good fans) colored fans on that on that funky (good cooler) silver cooler.







It needs a camouflage cover.... maybe black or red vinyl / tape on sides and over top??.. .. or carbon fiber look??









Seriously. Very nice!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Beautiful build shilka
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now about those funky (good fans) colored fans on that on that funky (good cooler) silver cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It needs a camouflage cover.... maybe black or red vinyl / tape on sides and over top??.. .. or carbon fiber look??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously. Very nice!


Thanks i have spent a lot of time and money putting this together its a bit dusty i know i am trying to find a way to clean it without taking it apart.
And i have been thinking about replacing the Noctua fans with 2x 120mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro fans so all the fans in the PC is the same brand and color the only problem with replacing them with Bitfenix Spectre Pro fans are that the temp will go up as they are not as good as the Noctua fans


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Thanks i have spent a lot of time and money putting this together its a bit dusty i know i am trying to find a way to clean it without taking it apart.
> And i have been thinking about replacing the Noctua fans with 2x 120mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro fans so all the fans in the PC is the same brand and color the only problem with replacing them with Bitfenix Spectre Pro fans are that the temp will go up as they are not as good as the Noctua fans


I have a small compressor I use in my joinery shop so it gets used to blow out computers. Also have filters on all intakes.

Been there done that many times. I'm using TY-140 fans so just as fuggly as Noctua. Finally couldn't take it any longer and painted the housings black. Used cheap spay can but looks much better now.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have a small compressor I use in my joinery shop so it gets used to blow out computers. Also have filters on all intakes.
> Been there done that many times. I'm using TY-140 fans so just as fuggly as Noctua. Finally couldn't take it any longer and painted the housings black. Used cheap spay can but looks much better now.


If i replace the 2 stock Noctua fans with 2 Bitfenix Spectre Pro 120mm fans how much will the temp go up? 2-5c???


----------



## doyll

I honestly don't know. I don't even know what the cfm and static pressure specification are on them. Tator Tot might be able to give you some idea:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1321074/tator-tots-big-quiet-120mm-140mm-fan-round-up
or Cyclops:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-complete-and-comprehensive-array-of-tests-and-benchmarks
Both have tested and are testing lots of fans.


----------



## shilka

On heatsinks static pressure is more important then airflow and the Noctua have more static pressure then the Bitfenix fans does


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> If i replace the 2 stock Noctua fans with 2 Bitfenix Spectre Pro 120mm fans how much will the temp go up? 2-5c???


BitFenix spectre pro fans are noisy and don't have that great airflow in my opinion. I own 2 120mm, 1 140mm, and 1 230mm spectre pro version (and also a couple 120mm regular spectres). Beyond the good looks... I'd look elsewhere for good fans.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> BitFenix spectre pro fans are noisy and don't have that great airflow in my opinion. I own 2 120mm, 1 140mm, and 1 230mm spectre pro version (and also a couple 120mm regular spectres). Beyond the good looks... I'd look elsewhere for good fans.


Think i will just keep my Noctua NF-P12´s then


----------



## ElevenEleven

I would highly recommend Scythe Gentle Typhoons. Having recently acquired 6 AP-14s, they are wonderful. Noiseblockers are also something to look into, if you want good looking fans, especially the new eLoop series. Otherwise, NF-F12 PWM was pretty good to me (though with a bit of a hum).


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I would highly recommend Scythe Gentle Typhoons. Having recently acquired 6 AP-14s, they are wonderful. Noiseblockers are also something to look into, if you want good looking fans, especially the new eLoop series. Otherwise, NF-F12 PWM was pretty good to me (though with a bit of a hum).


Noctua said they had a U14/U140 in the pipeline at some point anyone know about that???


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> On heatsinks static pressure is more important then airflow and the Noctua have more static pressure then the Bitfenix fans does


Sure would be nice if it really was that simple.

On heatsinks we need fans that will keep flowing air through the resistance of cooler... good cfm at static pressure.

Maximum static pressure is usually when fan is running maximum rpm and moving no air.







Exact opposite of what happens when you hold your hand over the end of hose on your hoover.







Then there is the pattern the air blows out of fan... from a wide spread with maximum cfm/pressure on outer part of flow.. to fans that blow in a tight cylinder like pattern with good cfm/pressure over entire front of fan... with as many differences as there are fans.

I installed TY-140 fans on my NH-U12P cooler:


I made some shrouds to fit them with and painted the fan housing black.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sure would be nice if it really was that simple.
> On heatsinks we need fans that will keep flowing air through the resistance of cooler... good cfm at static pressure.
> Maximum static pressure is usually when fan is running maximum rpm and moving no air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exact opposite of what happens when you hold your hand over the end of hose on your hoover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then there is the pattern the air blows out of fan... from a wide spread with maximum cfm/pressure on outer part of flow.. to fans that blow in a tight cylinder like pattern with good cfm/pressure over entire front of fan... with as many differences as there are fans.
> I installed TY-140 on NH-U12P cooler:


Wow did not know you could fit the TY-140 onthe NH-U12P SE2


----------



## doyll

We can do most anything. All it takes is an idea, time and money









Edit: added a second pic for you


----------



## siggie30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Noctua said they had a U14/U140 in the pipeline at some point anyone know about that???


http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=presse_archiv&step=2&news_id=77&lng=en


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=presse_archiv&step=2&news_id=77&lng=en


Yes i have seen that
I meant has there been anything newer then Computex 2012 they said at the end of the year at Computex


----------



## doyll

Actually you can use your fan clips to mount 140mm fans with 120mm mount spacing (like TY-140 fans) onto your U12P. They mount up the same as your 120mm fans.

Thermalright has TY-143 with red housing and orange fan 600-2500rpm. Also TY-145 & TY-147 with black housing and white blades. TY-140 and TY-147 are same fan different color. TY-141 & TY-145 are same but different color and bearing. TY-143 is TY-140 with different motor, bearing and color.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Actually you can use your fan clips to mount 140mm fans with 120mm mount spacing (like TY-140 fans) onto your U12P. They mount up the same as your 120mm fans.
> Thermalright has TY-143 with red housing and orange fan 600-2500rpm. Also TY-145 & TY-147 with black housing and white blades. TY-140 and TY-147 are same fan different color. TY-141 & TY-145 are same but different color and bearing. TY-143 is TY-140 with different motor, bearing and color.


The only one the site i use have on their site is this one
http://www.coolerkit.dk/shop/thermalright-ty-140-120mm-2334p.html
But i know one of the guys that run the site very well i can just call and ask them to order it home for me
So which fan would you said is best for use on a Noctua NH-U12P SE2?


----------



## siggie30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Yes i have seen that
> I meant has there been anything newer then Computex 2012 they said at the end of the year at Computex


Nope.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The only one the site i use have on their site is this one
> http://www.coolerkit.dk/shop/thermalright-ty-140-120mm-2334p.html
> But i know one of the guys that run the site very well i can just call and ask them to order it home for me
> So which fan would you said is best for use on a Noctua NH-U12P SE2?


First I'm not saying what fan you should get.









Thermalright lists these 140mm fans
http://www.thermalright.com/products.html

They also have 120mm fans


----------



## Zackotsu




----------



## ZeVo

The new 140mm fans are finally in stores!

http://www.quietpcusa.com/Noctua-NF-A14-FLX-Quiet-PC-Fan-140mm-P969.aspx

http://www.quietpcusa.com/Noctua-NF-A14-ULN-Quiet-PC-Fan-140mm-P970.aspx

http://www.quietpcusa.com/Noctua-NF-A15-PWM-Quiet-Computer-CPU-Cooling-Fan-140mm-P968.aspx

The shipping on the site is just ridiculous however..


----------



## siggie30

Ordered one this morning. The shipping is a bit much.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> Ordered one this morning. The shipping is a bit much.


Geez I know.. why in the world are you charging $13 to ship two tiny fans? I really want these as soon as possible but I might just wait to order from Newegg or NCIX. No way I'm paying that much.

Tell us how they perform when you get them. So far every review I've read has nothing but good things to say about it.


----------



## siggie30

It is the last fan I needed to complete my Node 304 project. Now I am happy that it is en route.


----------



## animal0307

Club list should be updated.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Club list should be updated.


Aren't you the updater?


----------



## animal0307

Yupp. It's a statement not an observation.


----------



## WebsterXC

I'd like to join!

Fans:

[9] NF-F12 PWM
[2] A4x10-FLX
[3] NF-P14-FLX

Heatsinks:

[2] NH-U9DX (Socket 771), Lost the picture sorry.


----------



## animal0307

I figured you would see my sig wander this way. I'll get you added later tonight.


----------



## toyz72

getting ready to order two 80mm's for the bottom now:thumb:


----------



## doyll

Good looking build.









How do you like your HAF XB?

Reason I ask is I've mixed feeling about it. Like the concept but not some of the other things... like 6x 2.5 hhd but only 2x 3.5; only 155mm cpu clearance with top fan; access to filters for cleaning; things like that.

Thanks in advance for your input.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Good looking build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you like your HAF XB?
> 
> Reason I ask is I've mixed feeling about it. Like the concept but not some of the other things... like 6x 2.5 hhd but only 2x 3.5; only 155mm cpu clearance with top fan; access to filters for cleaning; things like that.
> Thanks in advance for your input.


tell ya what i did....i removed the hot swap board on the back of the bays. now i just run the sata cables straight to my board. i really like the cooling and how easy it is just to change parts out. i was waiting a long time for a full size atx cube case to come around without a $500 price tag on it.

the cpu cooler can be 180mm/7.1 inches. cleaning is a breeze, the case breaks down really easy.


----------



## doyll

Thanks. I like the idea of a full size ATX cube too... and it's a good case. And I guess they had to build it so they could make improvements every year on it. But for lack of 15mm in height they sacrificed so many cooling options. And a 3.5" HDD cage with 2.5" mounting option would have been so nice. 2.5" drives are becoming more popular as are SSD's, but 3.5" drives are still the storage workhorses.. Oh well, maybe next year it will have the features I want.


----------



## Anu Daviau

Sign me up plz.

NH-D14 on Ivy Bridge 3770k


----------



## Badness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anu Daviau*
> 
> Sign me up plz.
> NH-D14 on Ivy Bridge 3770k


I see your board matches your Noctua fans


----------



## Anu Daviau

Color wise, it surely could have been assembled much better, but I'm happy with it.
M'board is the ASRock z77 Extreme 4, features 4x Corsair Venegance low profile RAM and there's even 8mm space between RAM and fan, and 4-5mm between RAM and heatsink.
This cooler is just WoooW


----------



## tsirk

I want to join the club too =)


----------



## Jeci

Hey guys, basic question - but how do you set the speed on these fans? Out of the box if i plug it into a mobo fan socket will it be at it's fastest setting or slowest?


----------



## Nocturin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeci*
> 
> Hey guys, basic question - but how do you set the speed on these fans? Out of the box if i plug it into a mobo fan socket will it be at it's fastest setting or slowest?


It will be at the fastest RPM if they are 3pin. You'll need to use the adapters to slow the fan speed for the 3pin. If they are 4 pin then they are PWM and the speed is controlled by the mobo, and it ramps up the RPMs based on the temps or fan mappings set in the BIOS.


----------



## shilka

Just got myself one of the new Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans as my exhaust fan


----------



## Intense

Got 4x NF-F12s and one NF-P14 FLX. Will now be using Noctua's as my favorite fans. They replaced some gentle typhoons. Pics later after I reinstall my RMA H100 and fans and then gotta cable manage.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsirk*
> 
> I want to join the club too =)


Added

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Just got myself one of the new Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans as my exhaust fan


Nice. How does it perform?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intense*
> 
> Got 4x NF-F12s and one NF-P14 FLX. Will now be using Noctua's as my favorite fans. They replaced some gentle typhoons. Pics later after I reinstall my RMA H100 and fans and then gotta cable manage.


Nice. How you gotten the chance compare the results? My roommate has a H100 some GT's and gets Jelly every time he doesn't hear my fans running. I keep telling him to replace them with NF-F12's


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Can I join?









Looks like a big fan!



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Nope Noctua NF-A4x10








Two of 'em and a NH-L9A in the LAN box.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Nice. How does it perform?


Its very good it moves about the same amount of air as my old Bitfenix Spectre Pro 140mm but the nosie level is much much lower

On low RPM you can hear the motor and it makes an annoying sound but you can only hear that if you move your ear right up to the fan

On full RPM the fan moves a good amount of air and its very quiet
So i will say its the best 140mm i had so far but that is not saying much compared to the crap 140mm fans i have had before


----------



## ZeVo

Wow. No replies in almost a month!

Vienna, February 12th 2013 - Noctua today presented the new, third generation of its signature S12 series quiet case fans, which have received more than 250 awards and recommendations from the international press. Featuring a further refined blade design with Anti-Stall Knobs that works in tandem with the new AAO (Advanced Acoustic Optimisation) frame, the NF-S12A improves the airflow/noise efficiency of its renowned predecessor by up to 8%.
Quote:


> Introduced in 2006, the original NF-S12 became a cornerstone of our reputation as one of the leading manufacturers of premium quality quiet fans. The second generation NF-S12B, introduced in 2009, continued this tradition with an even better airflow to noise ratio, making it one of our most popular models of all time", says Mag. Roland Mossig, Noctua CEO. "We've been working on the next generation for about three years and now we're thrilled to be able to present a worthy successor with the new NF-S12A: The new Anti-Stall Knobs and our AAO type frame allowed us to squeeze out another 8% in airflow to noise efficiency!


The NF-S12A's novel Anti-Stall Knobs reduce flow separation phenomena in medium to high impedance situations and thereby increase the fan's stall margin. This means that the NF-S12A is even more versatile than its renowned predecessor and can achieve better performance on heatsinks and radiators. Noctua's AAO (Advanced Acoustic Optimisation) frames feature integrated anti-vibration pads as well as Noctua's proprietary Stepped Inlet Design and Inner Surface Microstructures, both of which further refine the fan's performance/noise efficiency.

Three models will be available upon launch: While the NF-S12A FLX version provides 1200/900/700rpm speed settings via the supplied Low-Noise Adaptors in order to give you full flexibility in fine-tuning the fan for maximum ventilation performance or near-silent operation, the NF-S12A ULN version provides super-slow 800/600rpm speed settings for ultra-low-noise applications and highly noise-sensitive users. The NF-S12A PWM sports Noctua's custom designed NE-FD1 IC for fully automatic speed control via 4-pin fan headers and comes with a Low-Noise-Adaptor to reduce the maximum speed during PWM control from 1200 to 900rpm.

All three models employ the further optimised second generation of Noctua's renowned, time-tested SSO bearing and use CNC milled brass bearing shells in order to guarantee the highest possible degree of manufacturing precision, minimum tolerance and excellent long-term stability. Like all Noctua fans, the NF-S12A models have an MTBF rating of more than 150.000 hours and come with a full 6 years manufacturer's warranty.

*Pricing and availability*
The new NF-S12A fans will be available immediately at recommended retail prices of EUR 19.90 / USD 21.90.

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=news_list&news_id=83&lng=en


----------



## Yahooza

Hello everybody.
Please add me in...





My tiny rig in FD define R4 (i know Ifone photos are just crap














)

I've planned to replace my two NF-P14 non PWM by two TY-141 (gently waiting at home for 1x4-pin to 2x4-pin adapter before installation).

For those who have changed these fans by PWM fans, i really need a little to see if i'm right or not


----------



## mironccr345

Nice man! I've always wanted that cooler. But since I had the Gemini cooler and some noctua fans, decided to use it instead. Still want one though.


----------



## g00gle88

I recently bought a NH-U9B SE, there are black and blue fan connectors and there is a Y-Splitter. I have very small ITX board so I just used the Y-Splitter and plug the 2 92mm into the system fan connection on my motherboard.

Is this the way it should be done or should I use the black/blue fan connectors?

Thank you


----------



## Yahooza

The y-splitter is just in case you have two fans to connect to one fan header of your MoBo (CPU-FAN for example)
The black/blue fan connectors are the L.N.A (Low Noise Adapter) and U.L.N.A (Ultra Low Noise Adapter); they're used if you want your fans running to lower speed (9V or 7V instead of the 12V delivered by the header).


----------



## g00gle88

So does it means that if I don't use the black or the blue connector I'm using 12v on my fans? does it make it spin faster?


----------



## Yahooza

Except if your CPU-FAN header can be voltage-controlled by the BIOS rather than PWM controlled, you fans will spin at full RPM if you don't use the Low Noise Adapters.
On my Sabertooth, the two NF-P14 are running at 1250 rpm and cannot be controlled as they are plugged in CPU-FAN.


----------



## Tomus

Hello guiz


----------



## g00gle88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yahooza*
> 
> Except if your CPU-FAN header can be voltage-controlled by the BIOS rather than PWM controlled, you fans will spin at full RPM if you don't use the Low Noise Adapters.
> On my Sabertooth, the two NF-P14 are running at 1250 rpm and cannot be controlled as they are plugged in CPU-FAN.


So if the fan is running at full RPM all the time does it mean it's not good? Its currently running at 1.7K RPM why do I need to throttle it down to 1.3K (black) or 1K (blue)?? Is is just because it consumes higher power? Or is there any other reason


----------



## ladcrooks

if you look at my system - yep I love Noctua.

They take some beating, still hold their own to water cooling!


----------



## Yahooza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomus*
> 
> Hello guiz


Your GPU isn't too close to the rad ????

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *g00gle88*
> 
> So if the fan is running at full RPM all the time does it mean it's not good? Its currently running at 1.7K RPM why do I need to throttle it down to 1.3K (black) or 1K (blue)?? Is is just because it consumes higher power? Or is there any other reason


First, i would say there's no problem fan running full.
It consumes effectively more power but nothing to see compared to the GPU.
Last, just try with even one or the other LNA and just look at the temp (idle and full), then you could choose the best ratio cooling/noise depending on the use you have of your rig.

I'm gonna change my two noctua NH-P14 by two TY-141 that are PWM and put my NH-P14 on the front intake of my R4.
Gonna have two FD silent series R2 to sell next.


----------



## ladcrooks

Tomus - if you only use 1 drive, why not take out the hd caddy? Give you better airflow.

I took the hd caddy out and placed hard drive on a piece of hardened type plastic foam for vibration for better air flow. I hate cases with side vents, more noise to my way of thinking.


----------



## animal0307

Club list up to date. Hope I got everyone.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Club list up to date. Hope I got everyone.


Hey animal0307 i think you made a mistake my name is on the list twice but my NF-A14 FLX is under one name and my NH-U12P SE2 is under the other name could you please add them under one name thank you

last welcome to the lightshow


----------



## Yahooza

**** it's shinny








Kinda Xmas tree


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yahooza*
> 
> **** it's shinny


I can turn the light off if i want to sleep in the same room


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Club list up to date. Hope I got everyone.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey animal0307 i think you made a mistake my name is on the list twice but my NF-A14 FLX is under one name and my NH-U12P SE2 is under the other name could you please add them under one name thank you
> 
> last welcome to the lightshow
Click to expand...

Ha wow some how you where on there 3 times. It's fixed now.


----------



## Yahooza

Little question about the LNA on Noctua fans: is there a problem if a fan is plugged with the two adapters one after the other ? (POWER-FAN_ULNA_LNA_FAN)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Ha wow some how you where on there 3 times. It's fixed now.


FYI; I've had forum enter my post 3 times on several occasions. Usually it will immediately remove one.. No idea what is causing it but I know animal and I are not the only people who have had this problem. Not complaining. Just data that might help techs figure it all out


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Ha wow some how you where on there 3 times. It's fixed now.


Only saw 2 but anyway thanks


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yahooza*
> 
> Little question about the LNA on Noctua fans: is there a problem if a fan is plugged with the two adapters one after the other ? (POWER-FAN_ULNA_LNA_FAN)


You're adding a lot of resistance into the line and it may cause the fan not to start.

Just depends on the fan, if it can handle a low start up voltage.


----------



## Yahooza

What i have found about http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=65142


----------



## Tomus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yahooza*
> 
> Your GPU isn't too close to the rad ????


It is close but the rad has a hole so only about 2/3 of the rad's fins are close + the fan overlaps the rad so it may be somewhat beneficial for the gpu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ladcrooks*
> 
> Tomus - if you only use 1 drive, why not take out the hd caddy? Give you better airflow.
> 
> I took the hd caddy out and placed hard drive on a piece of hardened type plastic foam for vibration for better air flow.


cant be removed :/


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yahooza*
> 
> Little question about the LNA on Noctua fans: is there a problem if a fan is plugged with the two adapters one after the other ? (POWER-FAN_ULNA_LNA_FAN)


Wait why would you do that in the first place? You may not even reach the startup voltage (you'd have to do the math) on the fans and therefore the fan wouldn't spin. Just use a fan controller

Is anyone in the market for some F-12PWM fans or the 140mm flavor? Let me know...


----------



## jlhawn

I have 4 Noctua fans now, 2 NF-F12 PWM 120mm in the front and 2 NF-P14 FLX 140mm on top
here's a pic.


----------



## Yahooza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Wait why would you do that in the first place? You may not even reach the startup voltage (you'd have to do the math) on the fans and therefore the fan wouldn't spin. Just use a fan controller
> 
> Is anyone in the market for some F-12PWM fans or the 140mm flavor? Let me know...


It's just about monitoring its speed (not regulate it) because i wanna plug it on the POW-FAN on my Sabertooth and this fan will be in front of the HDD so i just need silence with this one.

Doing Math quickly (i'm not sur of that) 9V/12V=0.75 and 7V/12V=0.58333 so if i put one adapter after the other i'm gonna have 0.75x7V or 0.58333x9V that gives me a 5,25 V for the fan (enough no ?).
I repeat, really not sure about the math on this.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> I have 4 Noctua fans now, 2 NF-F12 PWM 120mm in the front and 2 NF-P14 FLX 140mm on top
> here's a pic.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good man. Why didn't you put a Noc in the rear?


----------



## Yahooza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> I have 4 Noctua fans now, 2 NF-F12 PWM 120mm in the front and 2 NF-P14 FLX 140mm on top
> here's a pic.


Hard for the upper GPU to be cooled


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yahooza*
> 
> Hard for the upper GPU to be cooled


How Are those temps on those 580's?


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yahooza*
> 
> It's just about monitoring its speed (not regulate it) because i wanna plug it on the POW-FAN on my Sabertooth and this fan will be in front of the HDD so i just need silence with this one.
> 
> Doing Math quickly (i'm not sur of that) 9V/12V=0.75 and 7V/12V=0.58333 so if i put one adapter after the other i'm gonna have 0.75x7V or 0.58333x9V that gives me a 5,25 V for the fan (enough no ?).
> I repeat, really not sure about the math on this.


Depends how Noctua has their Low Noise Adapters set up, almost sure they're using resistors. You'd have to know the resistor values to know exactly what the resultant voltage would be.

The equation for resistors in series are:

Rt = R1 + R2 + R3 + etc.... (Where R is the value of the resistance in Ohms)

You'll also need one variation of Ohms law to calculate each resistor value (unless you want to tear off the shrink and check the color codes):

V= I x R (Where V is volts in Volts (needed to drop), I is current in Amperes, and R is the resistance in Ohms).

Each fan has a different current rating at 12 volts, you'll need to look it up, or check the sticker on your fan. For instance I'll use your F-12PWM fans as an example. Using the 7V adapter:

(12V-7V) = (.05A) (R)

You would need a resistor with a value of 100Ohms to reduce the voltage to 7V. If you were to find the value of the 9V adapter:

(12V-9V)= (.05A) (R)

You would need a resistor with a value of 60 Ohms to reduce the voltage to 9V. Plugging both of your values back into the original law of series resistors:

Rt = 100+60 = 160Ohms (of total resistance).

Once again we plug that value BACK into Ohms law:

V= (.05A)(160)

V=8V (Don't forget, this is your voltage DROP. So 12V-8V would give you a resultant voltage of 4V. I don't know what the minimum startup voltage for Noctua's specifically are, but I do know that most fans have a minimum startup voltage of 7V. Higher quality fans such as Noiseblockers have a minimum startup voltage of 5V. Either way, the fan wouldn't spin even at the full 12V with BOTH low-noise-adapters plugged in.


----------



## Yahooza

Thanks for answering
I'm gonna try it by the way. I'll see if it starts. If not, i will plug it on the R4 fan controller.


----------



## WebsterXC

Sounds good, let us know how it goes. Noctua fans have different amp ratings, and I doubt the company uses different resistors for each fan so my math might not be accurate in terms of Noctua Manufacturing


----------



## Angelus359

tried out noctua nf a14 flx and they are way too damn loud even at 5v


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angelus359*
> 
> tried out noctua nf a14 flx and they are way too damn loud even at 5v


your kidding right?
the highest dp rating on that fan is 19.2 and the lowest is 13.8
I have 4 Noctua fans running at max rpm 2 120mm and 2 140mm
and my single xigmatek cpu cooler 120mm fan is the only fan I
can hear over my 4 Noctuas. my next upgrade is placing a Noctua
fan on my cpu cooler.


----------



## marc0053

Sign me up









Noctua D14


----------



## Angelus359

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> your kidding right?
> the highest dp rating on that fan is 19.2 and the lowest is 13.8
> I have 4 Noctua fans running at max rpm 2 120mm and 2 140mm
> and my single xigmatek cpu cooler 120mm fan is the only fan I
> can hear over my 4 Noctuas. my next upgrade is placing a Noctua
> fan on my cpu cooler.


I wish I was

I was getting some serious vibration noise in both of them in and out of the case.

Atleast for the 2 I had, 19.2DB is bull**** for the a14 flx

my noctua nf-f12 set for auto pwm scaling on my cpu heatsink is dead silent though

Thermalright I replaced one of them with is way quieter than the a14


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angelus359*
> 
> I was getting some serious vibration noise in both of them in and out of the case.


RMA the fans, you most likely had fans damaged in shipping some how.


----------



## doyll

Do as Mr. Tot says.









You might be able to get them to send you RMA replacements with proof of the ones you have being unusable. I know some RMA where they told customer to break a blade off and email them a picture to proof it.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angelus359*
> 
> I wish I was
> 
> I was getting some serious vibration noise in both of them in and out of the case.
> 
> Atleast for the 2 I had, 19.2DB is bull**** for the a14 flx
> 
> my noctua nf-f12 set for auto pwm scaling on my cpu heatsink is dead silent though
> 
> Thermalright I replaced one of them with is way quieter than the a14


I got the 19.2 from Noctuas spec sheet. and like i said mine are very quiet.
and yes if you e-mail them they will send you new fans without having to send those back but they will ask you to send pics
of them broken.
when i received my 2 120mm fans one of them had to be started by me pushing the blade with my finger, I e-mailed them and they shipped me
a new fan from the other side of the planet in 1 week and then i took the bad fan broke a blade off put my i.d. next to it and took a pic and e-mailed
it to them, problem solved. also they require a sig from the delivery to your home.


----------



## Angelus359

Ive had multiple bad fan lately. I wonder if its from the cold of them sitting on my porch at sub 30 degree weather


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angelus359*
> 
> Ive had multiple bad fan lately. I wonder if its from the cold of them sitting on my porch at sub 30 degree weather


That shouldn't do it.

Generally, consistent rough handling in shipping is what causes problems like that. Then again, some folks are also unlucky. I know my friend Kourtni has the worst possible luck with electronics. Which is why she doesn't buy them, she just gives me the money & I buy them for her.


----------



## Angelus359

my current computer had 4 motherboard replacements, 2 cpu replacements, 6 bad fans, one bad gpu fan, and one psu replacement, all within 30 days of purchase... so my luck is horrific


----------



## Tator Tot

4 boards & 2 CPUs?

My lord sir....


----------



## Angelus359

cpu died because of 2 of the same model board from amazon having voltage regulation issues... visible burn marks


----------



## animal0307

All up to date.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angelus359*
> 
> my current computer had 4 motherboard replacements, 2 cpu replacements, 6 bad fans, one bad gpu fan, and one psu replacement, all within 30 days of purchase... so my luck is horrific


Where do you live and why is the power source for your computer so sketchy? Only reason I can think of loosing so much hardware so fast. Or are you one of those guys that abuses their hardware while under warranty?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> Sign me up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Noctua D14


Nice! That D14 looks good in there.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> I got the 19.2 from Noctuas spec sheet. and like i said mine are very quiet.
> and yes if you e-mail them they will send you new fans without having to send those back but they will ask you to send pics
> of them broken.
> when i received my 2 120mm fans one of them had to be started by me pushing the blade with my finger, I e-mailed them and they shipped me
> a new fan from the other side of the planet in 1 week and then i took the bad fan broke a blade off put my i.d. next to it and took a pic and e-mailed
> it to them, problem solved. also they require a sig from the delivery to your home.


Please people, don't believe the manufacturer's specs. They are almost always bogus. There is no standard of measurement for dBA.. What distance is mic from fan? What resistance is fan running under? They find the best environment for the fan, which often not the environment we use fans in. A fan setting out in the open will be much quieter than a fan pulling air into a case, or push/pull on a cooler. Just putting a vent grill or cooler against the fan will increase it's noise. Personally I don't use fans out in the open on my bench so the fan noise setting on a bench means nothing.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Please people, don't believe the manufacturer's specs. They are almost always bogus. There is no standard of measurement for dBA.. What distance is mic from fan? What resistance is fan running under? They find the best environment for the fan, which often not the environment we use fans in. A fan setting out in the open will be much quieter than a fan pulling air into a case, or push/pull on a cooler. Just putting a vent grill or cooler against the fan will increase it's noise. Personally I don't use fans out in the open on my bench so the fan noise setting on a bench means nothing.


I believe the specs due too the fact that i have these fans in my case sitting less then 3 feet
away from me on top of my desk. but I guess you work for Noctua and you know their fan specs are bogus??


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> There is no standard of measurement for dBA.


Yes there is, there is an ISO defined standard.

Long story short:

>10dB(A) Environment

Open Air Environment

Distance of 1M from the source to the pickup (fan to mic)

I will agree that you shouldn't trust what most companies rate to. Noctua is generally pretty spot on with their stuff though.

EDIT: That standard is: ISO 7779.

Had to look it up, so almost a 2hr late edit here.


----------



## Screams

I too am rocking a NH-D14 =) Takes up alot of room but its worth it.


----------



## Yahooza

T'y-141 installed and pwm controlled.
Cpu temp is 5 degrees C up with fans turning at 35% instead of 100% with the noctuas.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> I believe the specs due too the fact that i have these fans in my case sitting less then 3 feet
> away from me on top of my desk. but I guess you work for Noctua and you know their fan specs are bogus??


No, I do not know Noctua are more accurately tested than any other. But I do know Tator Tot and if he says the are Noctua are pretty spoton I will believe him.

Read Tator Tot's reviews and go by what he find about fans. It is much better and more usable info than manufacturers put out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> Yes there is, there is an ISO defined standard.
> 
> Long story short:
> >10dB(A) Environment
> Open Air Environment
> Distance of 1M from the source to the pickup (fan to mic)
> 
> I will agree that you shouldn't trust what most companies rate to. Noctua is generally pretty spot on with their stuff though.
> 
> EDIT: That standard is: ISO 7779.
> Had to look it up, so almost a 2hr late edit here.


Thanks Mr. Tot.

I used to be an audiophile in a previous life so please believe me when I say the standards can be and often are manipulated.

As I previously stated open air on a bench test means almost nothing. And they still mean almost nothing because we don't use our fans in on top of benches. What they sound like intaking air into a case through a filter, exhausting through a back grill or on a cooler are what I need to know. Your testing supplies that data.


----------



## Tator Tot

While that's true, that's only because I'm taking the ISO standard, tweaking it some (raising the noise-floor to 20dB (A) since my equipment & box are not $15k advanced.) and adding in some additional subjective analysis.

Most of the time, you can at least find some form of recommended use on fans from different manufacturers. Noctua says themselves that the what type of positioning & intended use gets the optimum results out of their fans.


----------



## kesawi

The Notcua products in my main rig include 3 x NF-S12B FLX, 2 x NF-F12 PWM and 1 x NF-P14 FLX



I also have 2 x NF-S12B ULN in my HTPC.


----------



## fozzybear

Hi All,

i am running a NH-D 14 and i am wondering about the following.
My stupid board does not support DC Fans so the 3 pin connector is on a 4 pin socket, naturally loosing all the Fan regulation so they are pumping at 1300 RPM all of the time.

Now i am at the point that the CPU Fan is the noisiest part in my box, not due to the Fan noise, more because of the turbulence they produce, especially the fan between the 2 towers.

i was thinking about plugging in the low rpm cable but i am not sure how this will affect the cooling, will i loose a lot of cooling capacity (i am running a piledriver 8350 not oc'ed but it produces a lot of heat under load)

I was also thinking about a fan controller, but these are hard to find at my location. especially decent ones.

does anyone have some useful hints how i can reduce the noise produced ?

thanks and regards,

fozz


----------



## ohhgourami

Try plugging the fans into the chasis headers. Most of newer board support voltage control even though it is a 4 pin header.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Noctua NF-A15 are almost impossible to find. Are there any sites beyond NCIX, QuietPC, and Platinum Micro?


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Noctua NF-A15 are almost impossible to find. Are there any sites beyond NCIX, QuietPC, and Platinum Micro?


Amazon


----------



## Yahooza

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A15-PWM-140x150x25mm-900rpm/dp/B00AEGTZS8/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1363179303&sr=1-4&keywords=nf-a15: is it true or not ?

this is what we have in France as prices are just not so amazing

http://www.hardware.fr/prix/fiche-779173/ventilateurs/noctua-nf-a15-pwm.html


----------



## Tyreman

Going to test out a pair of NF-A15 PWM's on the DH-14 and see what develops.
Have to remove square mounting plastic tabs so can install and allow the fan clips to hold.

EDIT:

You'll get about 1-2 degrees better performance over stock DH14 fans.(not really worth the expense but I had to play)

Also PWM advantage of ramping up and down with processor load so quieter when not under load


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yahooza*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A15-PWM-140x150x25mm-900rpm/dp/B00AEGTZS8/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1363179303&sr=1-4&keywords=nf-a15: is it true or not ?
> 
> this is what we have in France as prices are just not so amazing
> 
> http://www.hardware.fr/prix/fiche-779173/ventilateurs/noctua-nf-a15-pwm.html


Yes those prices are for real. I guess we get them for really cheap then...


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyreman*
> 
> Going to test out a pair of NF-A15 PWM's on the DH-14 and see what develops.
> Have to remove square mounting plastic tabs so can install and allow the fan clips to hold.


They cool as well as the stock fans but are quieter. You can leave the rubber tabs on as they don't get in the way of anything. The fans only mount one way so check out my pic from my rig.


----------



## Tyreman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> They cool as well as the stock fans but are quieter. You can leave the rubber tabs on as they don't get in the way of anything. The fans only mount one way so check out my pic from my rig.


Thanks

Wound up trying with one of those in the center position and an NF-F12 PWM on the exterior
I have used this previous and its seems a toss up when these run on PWM as to which is better.
Though the larger frame should be quieter.
Both setups are quiet when running by PWM


----------



## Yahooza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Yes those prices are for real. I guess we get them for really cheap then...


But it's not US dollars right ?


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yahooza*
> 
> But it's not US dollars right ?


Noctua fans go for ~22USD on amazon. No joke.


----------



## toyz72

i guess youll be updating my noctua collection soon. i just picked up a NH-C14,and two more 140mm fans. i bet you'll never guess the member i picked the fans up from


----------



## nervx

Has anyone that is fan noise obsessed compared both the NF-A14 FLX and NF-A14 ULN? If so how does the FLX using the ULNA compare to the ULN fan at full speed? And if possibe how do these fans compare to the stock fractal r4 fans in terms of both motor and air movement noise(12v and 7V)?

im tempted to try the FLX model as it would be nice to turn them up when gaming on a hot day but if they're not quietier than the fractals at 7v maybe i'll stick with the ULN version or pay the premium for the silentwings....


----------



## Droviin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nervx*
> 
> Has anyone that is fan noise obsessed compared both the NF-A14 FLX and NF-A14 ULN? If so how does the FLX using the ULNA compare to the ULN fan at full speed? And if possibe how do these fans compare to the stock fractal r4 fans in terms of both motor and air movement noise(12v and 7V)?
> 
> im tempted to try the FLX model as it would be nice to turn them up when gaming on a hot day but if they're not quietier than the fractals at 7v maybe i'll stick with the ULN version or pay the premium for the silentwings....


I have the NF-A14 and they are loud near max. The Fractal fans are far, far quieter, but move what feels like less than half the air. When my computer spins the Noctuas down to around 900RPM you can still hear them. As with all Noctua fans the noise isn't annoying, but it is definitely present.


----------



## nervx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droviin*
> 
> I have the NF-A14 and they are loud near max. The Fractal fans are far, far quieter, but move what feels like less than half the air. When my computer spins the Noctuas down to around 900RPM you can still hear them. As with all Noctua fans the noise isn't annoying, but it is definitely present.


at 900rpm how do the noctua compare to the fractals at 7V?
i expected the FLX to be loud at full speed since they run faster than the fractals but at it's lowest speed its pretty close to the fractal at 7v.

interesting to hear the noctua moves more air. specs claim they're fairly even


----------



## Droviin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nervx*
> 
> at 900rpm how do the noctua compare to the fractals at 7V?
> i expected the FLX to be loud at full speed since they run faster than the fractals but at it's lowest speed its pretty close to the fractal at 7v.
> 
> interesting to hear the noctua moves more air. specs claim they're fairly even


Well, I just had the fractal's motor die on me today. I can no longer say that my experience with that fan good data.

The Noctuas are pretty quiet all things considered, but they make a wooshing noise. I haven't done much with the low speeds. When they do spin down to around 900RPM they are very quiet, I hear the Low Speed Loon that is mounted in the back of my computer cabinet over all the other fans.


----------



## Andrew A

Hey, I'm currently looking into buying a Noctua cooler for my computer. I have a Corsair Carbide 400R case, so the only restriction is whether or not it will fit. I'm really not sure which one to get but I'm currently leaning towards the Noctua NH-U12P SE2. I'm not sure which others I should be considering, though. If anybody has any suggestions that would be great.

Looking forward to joining the club. Thanks.


----------



## WebsterXC

Well if you're worried about space, try a cooler that's oriented 90 from the tower coolers! The C14 would be perfect:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12494/cpu-noc-19/Noctua_NH-C14_Dual_140mm_Fan_6-Heatpipes_CPU_Heat_Sink_Socket_LGA_775_1156_1366_AM2_AM2_AM3.html


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew A*
> 
> Hey, I'm currently looking into buying a Noctua cooler for my computer. I have a Corsair Carbide 400R case, so the only restriction is whether or not it will fit. I'm really not sure which one to get but I'm currently leaning towards the Noctua NH-U12P SE2. I'm not sure which others I should be considering, though. If anybody has any suggestions that would be great.
> 
> Looking forward to joining the club. Thanks.


NH-U12P SE2 is a good little cooler but there are many better coolers for the same or less money now. New TC12DX for example

I know some people suggest top flow coolers like the C14 but they are not designed to help keep hot exhaust air separated from cool intake air like tower coolers do.

*Top flow dumps dumps exhaust in all directions on motherboard... now do you get the hot exhaust out of case??
*Tower cooler pulls air in one side and dumps hot exhaust out the other toward the back vent.

And the better you remove the hot exhaust from your CPU cooler (and GPU cooler) the lower the temperatures in your case are.. the lower your cooling intake temperature is.. the cooler your components are.


----------



## ckWL

Im rockin the NH-D14


----------



## Yahooza

I'm with the NH-C14 equipped with 2 PWM T'Y-141 fans and my temps are fine (30 deg celsius for the CPU in a 22 deg room temp)


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Well if you're worried about space, try a cooler that's oriented 90 from the tower coolers! The C14 would be perfect:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12494/cpu-noc-19/Noctua_NH-C14_Dual_140mm_Fan_6-Heatpipes_CPU_Heat_Sink_Socket_LGA_775_1156_1366_AM2_AM2_AM3.html


just for giggles read the review under the cooler


----------



## WebsterXC

*facepalm*


----------



## ehume

I have to write up my numbers, but I recently finished a series of tests on cases using the D14 -- without fans. On a non-OC'd i7 860 system (a hot-running CPU) the D14 kept the temps in the 50's, using case airflow alone.


----------



## Angelus359

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> All up to date.
> 
> Where do you live and why is the power source for your computer so sketchy? Only reason I can think of loosing so much hardware so fast. Or are you one of those guys that abuses their hardware while under warranty?


That was at *stock* settings. I let my parts burn in for a month before I overclock.

I live in joliet, IL about 30 miles from Chicago.
I don't even have 3 prong electrical outlets. I'm grounded to the screw on the outlet with a converter (which btw when tested with a outlet tester, passes the "grounded" test)

Since I got my asus p8z77-m motherboard, I haven't had much in issues (except occasional overheating when my room goes past say, 90 degrees)

I recently got a new case to help with cooling







Fractal design r4 with 4 140mm case fans.

Loudest things in my case are my HDD and my GPU fan (which is a msi geforce 660)


----------



## Granzon

I recently ordered 2 noctua fans and had to return them because of the new color on the frame.
You can see it here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608035

If you compare the color to the noctua website you can clearly see the difference.
I hope that future noctua fans wont be changing to this color.


----------



## scubadiver59

Put me in for four...or eight...



My other two cpu's come in today and then I'll mount the other two heat sinks and fans.


----------



## WebsterXC

Oh a fellow Quad Socket user, welcome









What kind of board/CPU's?


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> Put me in for four...or eight...
> 
> 
> 
> My other two cpu's come in today and then I'll mount the other two heat sinks and fans.


Oh my. I would like to see more. I'll add you when I get hte chance.


----------



## mironccr345

Love Noctua for always thinking of the customers! For those of you guys upgrading to *Haswell*.
Quote:


> Noctua provides free mounting upgrade for upcoming Intel 'Haswell' platform
> Vienna, March 19th 2013 - Noctua today announced that it will continue its tradition of supplying customers with its premium-class SecuFirm2™ mounting kits for novel platforms free of charge. While newer Noctua heatsinks support Haswell's LGA1150 socket out of the box, older models can now be upgraded with the new NM-i115x kit at no additional cost.
> 
> "We're determined to provide the best possible support to our customers and over the years, we've sent many thousands of mounting kits free of charge to users who wanted to upgrade to new platforms", says Mag. Roland Mossig (Noctua CEO). "With Haswell just around the corner, we're pleased to announce that we'll extend this offer for LGA1150. Owners of older Noctua retail heatsinks that don't support LGA 115x out of the box will be able to upgrade to the new socket free of charge!"
> 
> Due to the spacing of the mounting holes being identical on LGA1150, LGA1155 and LGA1156, Noctua's previous SecuFirm2™ mounting systems for LGA115x also support Intel's upcoming 'Haswell' platform. The following Noctua coolers already include SecuFirm2™ mounting systems for LGA115x and can thus be used on LGA1150 mainboards without any upgrades or modifications: NH-C14, NH-D14, NH-C12P SE14, NH-L12, NH-L9i, NH-U12P SE2, NH-U9B SE2.
> 
> Users of older Noctua retail models that don't include a SecuFirm2™ mounting system for LGA115x can now obtain the new NM-i115x kit free of charge on Noctua's website in order to make their heatsinks compatible with the new socket. The NM-i115x kit has been tailor-made for LGA115x and features a new, sturdy one-piece backplate with fixed struts that has been specifically designed to facilitate installation on LGA115x sockets. Due to the fixed struts, it's now even easier to align the backplate and to attach it to the mainboard.
> 
> To order the NM-i115x kit, a proof of purchase (photo, scan or screenshot of the invoice) of both an eligible Noctua CPU cooler and either an LGA115x mainboard or LGA115x CPU are required. The NM-i115x mounting kit is compatible with most Noctua retail coolers since 2005 and will also be available in stores at a low service charge.
> 
> About Noctua
> Designed in Austria, Noctua's premium cooling components are internationally renowned for their superb quietness, exceptional performance and thoroughgoing quality. Having received more than 3000 awards and recommendations from leading hardware websites and magazines, Noctua's fans and heatsinks are chosen by more than a hundred thousand satisfied customers around the globe.


----------



## scubadiver59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Oh my. I would like to see more. I'll add you when I get the chance.


Fully loaded (though I'm picking up another 64GB RAM this weekend (dual purpose board - folding/Vmware ESXi host)


Two chips in...two to go!

E5-4650s....this is another build in progress


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> Fully loaded (though I'm picking up another 64GB RAM this weekend (dual purpose board - folding/Vmware ESXi host)
> 
> 
> Two chips in...two to go!
> 
> E5-4650s....this is another build in progress


Is that a space ship or a motherboard?


----------



## mironccr345

All those Noc coolers.


----------



## g00gle88

My NH-U9B SE2 on a tiny Bitfenix Prodigy


----------



## sham101

Hey all.

I recently finished my first build. I was using NF F12's to pull air through a H100i and it was dead silent at ~ 1050 rpm on both fans. I then added two more as push/pull still as intake. This was fine at first, however after rebooting my system the fans on the rad are now REALLY loud at the same RPM. Would anyone happen to know why.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sham101*
> 
> Hey all.
> 
> I recently finished my first build. I was using NF F12's to pull air through a H100i and it was dead silent at ~ 1050 rpm on both fans. I then added two more as push/pull still as intake. This was fine at first, however after rebooting my system the fans on the rad are now REALLY loud at the same RPM. Would anyone happen to know why.


Check to make sure your fans are actually running at those levels.

It sounds like some of the fans are not getting the proper PWM signal.


----------



## Clowerweb

I'm water cooled, but got 2 x Noctua NF-F12's in today that are going on my H220 rad


----------



## toyz72

two will only lead to four







enjoy the silence


----------



## mironccr345

^^ This. I started off with two as well, now I have four!


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ^^ This. I started off with two as well, now I have four!


im a junky,i have 11 now. i'll be tearing down my rig sunday. i'm hoping ncix gets my new fan controller here soon. i'll post my pictures of noctua super cooling soon


----------



## Clowerweb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> two will only lead to four
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> enjoy the silence


Yep. You know I'm going to want to see what 4 NF-F12s in push/pull are going to do on the H220









Don't have the budget to fill my entire case with Noctuas, but I suppose it could happen. Right now I'm rocking a case full of Aerocool Shark 140mm red LED fans. Those weren't cheap either, but for ~$16/ea., they're still at least $5 - $6 each less than the cheapest NF-F12s I could find. When your case holds 10 fans, it adds up









Probably going to throw those F12s on the rad tonight. I'll let you know how it goes


----------



## zulk

which of these are the best for radiators.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zulk*
> 
> which of these are the best for radiators.


NF-12 if you are talking 120mm NF-A14 if you are talking 140mm


----------



## WebsterXC

I ran 10 NF-F12 PWM fans push pull on both my GTX240 and GTX360 radiators back when I was using my Camo rig. They are amazing fans, really. They are quiet, but with impressive stats at the same time.


----------



## Droviin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> NF-12 if you are talking 120mm NF-A14 if you are talking 140mm


I thought the NF-A15 was the preferred 140mm fan for radiators and heatsinks.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droviin*
> 
> I thought the NF-A15 was the preferred 140mm fan for radiators and heatsinks.


Thats a 150mm fan not 140mm

If you wanted to use the NF-A15 on a 140mm/280 mm radiator it would be a stupid idea


----------



## Droviin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Thats a 150mm fan not 140mm
> 
> If you wanted to use the NF-A15 on a 140mm/280 mm radiator it would be a stupid idea


It's a 150mm x 140mm fan. It's designed specifically to mount on heatsinks and radiators that hold 140mm fans. It's wider in one direction than 140mm which can cause problems in some applications, but not all.


----------



## doyll

It has 120mm mounting holes on 105mm centers.

Basically a TY-140x copy.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droviin*
> 
> I thought the NF-A15 was the preferred 140mm fan for radiators and heatsinks.


A15's only advantage is being PWM. They're not compatible with standard 140mm housings (they're longer than 140mm fans), and don't have native 140mm mounting holes.

Thus, making them useless on a radiator.


----------



## maxedshotz

Hi, I'm not part of the club yet but I hope to be part of the club soon, I have an issue is that my local retailer only sells the se2011 edition and I'm using a 3570k. So I need a lga 1155 mounting system. Can someone hook me up I don't mind paying for it as long as it's reasonable. I can also cover shipping plz and thnx


----------



## vernaltiger

I love the nf-f12 fans and i dont mind the color.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxedshotz*
> 
> Hi, I'm not part of the club yet but I hope to be part of the club soon, I have an issue is that my local retailer only sells the se2011 edition and I'm using a 3570k. So I need a lga 1155 mounting system. Can someone hook me up I don't mind paying for it as long as it's reasonable. I can also cover shipping plz and thnx


Can't your local retailer get you the Noctua NM-I3 SecuFirm2 Mounting Kit?

Where on our big blue marble are you located? Makes it easier to give suggestions on where to get the mount.

Noctua NM-I3 SecuFirm2 Mounting Kit should cost £5-6.00 ($7-9.00) plus post.

Noctua give them free to owners of older coolers but not to se2011 owners. If you can't find one you could try begging Noctua to help you out. Explain your local dealer only has the se2011 model


----------



## maxedshotz

yes thnx for understanding that my local retailer has the se2011 model, but the retailer is canada computers in the markham area in toronto does not sell the mounting kit for the lga 1155. the reason im not getting it from ncix is because at canada computers they are having a clearance of noctua products and the nh-d14 se2011 is only 49.88. i hope you guys understand why im asking for the lga 1155 mounting kit.


----------



## doyll

listed as out of stock but says to phone for new SKU
https://www.a-power.com/product-14278

ship to Canada
http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/noctua-secufirm-2.html

ship to Canada
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9750/bra-42/Noctua_NM-I3_SecuFirm_2_LGA1156_and_LGA1366_Mounting_Bracket_Kit.html


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> im a junky,i have 11 now. i'll be tearing down my rig sunday. i'm hoping ncix gets my new fan controller here soon. i'll post my pictures of noctua super cooling soon


11!







My main rig only has one 120mm fan slot, so I'm using a BeQuite SilentWing 120mm because the Noctua doesn't match with the rest of my build. but, at one time I was using all four.


----------



## maxedshotz

obviously i would pay for $30 dollar shipping, then i wouldve picked up the nh-d14 at ncix =.=


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> 11!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My main rig only has one 120mm fan slot, so I'm using a BeQuite SilentWing 120mm because the Noctua doesn't match with the rest of my build. but, at one time I was using all four.


i dont think ugly when i see noctua fans....i see quality


----------



## Tyreman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxedshotz*
> 
> Hi, I'm not part of the club yet but I hope to be part of the club soon, I have an issue is that my local retailer only sells the se2011 edition and I'm using a 3570k. So I need a lga 1155 mounting system. Can someone hook me up I don't mind paying for it as long as it's reasonable. I can also cover shipping plz and thnx


Send Noctua an email under support with the required adapter the listed product isn't correct but explain in the bottom section where comments can be put no canauk retailer sell.

You must upload a copy of the NH D14 SE2011 cooler invoice AND a copy of 1155 cpu or motherboard purchase
you then get an auto response email about the kit coming.

You can check red flag deals about this under hot deals... comp a whole thread on it

Link:

http://forums.redflagdeals.com/cc-noctua-nh-d14-socket-lga2011-cpu-cooler-49-88-free-kit-other-sockets-1301421/


----------



## toyz72

slowly getting bigger....


----------



## animal0307

Updated. Love the new recruits.


----------



## toyz72

heres where 8 went....


----------



## twoofswords

NH-C14 in my main rig.



It's a tight fit but, it's worth it.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twoofswords*
> 
> NH-C14 in my main rig.
> 
> 
> 
> It's a tight fit but, it's worth it.


that looks like a pretty tight fit!


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Oh my. I would like to see more. I'll add you when I get the chance.
> 
> 
> 
> Fully loaded (though I'm picking up another 64GB RAM this weekend (dual purpose board - folding/Vmware ESXi host)
> 
> 
> Two chips in...two to go!
> 
> E5-4650s....this is another build in progress
Click to expand...

Please tell me you have a build log


----------



## Jordan32

Noctua NH-D14 here









Add me


----------



## scubadiver59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fir3Chi3f*
> 
> Please tell me you have a build log


Haha...hate to let you down...no.

All I did was slap in the memory, mount the coolers, and hooked up the PSU...all really mundane stuff.

Oh, I have some pics of the virgin board, the memory, partial mounting, etc. but those are so boring compared to the other full-up cases that are meticulously put together.

There is no case for mine, at least not yet. The board sits on some rubber matting, which sits on a piece of 14"x34" 3/4" plywood. I do have a detailed parts list, and a price list if you are interested to see what the $3k+ folding rigs cost.

AMD Opteron 6176 CPUs ($745)
SuperMicro H8QG6-F mobo ($809)
Noctua NH-U9DO A3 CPU Heatsinks (x4 @$70/ea)
128GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical RAM (16x8GB sticks @ $1000)
Corsair AX-1200 PSU ($279)
Fan Y-splitters ($8)
Fans (around board) ($120 - need more fans!)
Motherboard Testing Kit (stalk LEDs & buttons) ($12)

That's pretty much it. About $3.3k in parts and you're ready to rock and roll.




Note: Still have to get a few more fans to cool from the sides


----------



## doyll

I'm jealous







scubadiver59
That looks fantastic.. even if it is setting on a floor mat.









I I might suggest, build a duct from from a fan on each side of mobo to duct the air between the 2 coolers on each side. The intake fan on duct needs to move twice the cfm the cooler intake fans move. This is easy to try with some cardboard and may help keep the hot exhaust air from mixing with cool intake air.

I use a simple cheap indoor/outdoor digital thermometer with wired remote sensor for a couple of dollars to monitor my cooler intake temps. You might be surprised how much warmer the air going into coolers is than ambient room.


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scubadiver59*
> 
> Haha...hate to let you down...no.
> 
> All I did was slap in the memory, mount the coolers, and hooked up the PSU...all really mundane stuff.
> 
> Oh, I have some pics of the virgin board, the memory, partial mounting, etc. but those are so boring compared to the other full-up cases that are meticulously put together.
> 
> There is no case for mine, at least not yet. The board sits on some rubber matting, which sits on a piece of 14"x34" 3/4" plywood. I do have a detailed parts list, and a price list if you are interested to see what the $3k+ folding rigs cost.
> 
> AMD Opteron 6176 CPUs ($745)
> SuperMicro H8QG6-F mobo ($809)
> Noctua NH-U9DO A3 CPU Heatsinks (x4 @$70/ea)
> 128GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical RAM (16x8GB sticks @ $1000)
> Corsair AX-1200 PSU ($279)
> Fan Y-splitters ($8)
> Fans (around board) ($120 - need more fans!)
> Motherboard Testing Kit (stalk LEDs & buttons) ($12)
> 
> That's pretty much it. About $3.3k in parts and you're ready to rock and roll.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: Still have to get a few more fans to cool from the sides





You'll be climbing the folding ranks fast with that beast!


----------



## MultiDoc

Long time Noctua fan and here's my list of Noctua parts that went to my recently finished new rig:

CPU cooler: NH-D14 modded (replaced the stock NF-P12 and NF-P14 with the newer NF-F12PWm and the NF-A15PWM)
Case fans: 2xNF-F12 (top intake), 1xNF-P12 (top intake), 1xNF-P14FLX (rear exhaust), 2xNF-A14FLX (one at PSU compartment blowing towards main compartment and the other as intake blowing at the HDD hot swap cage), 1xNF-P12 (bottom HD intake)


----------



## animal0307

List should up to date.


----------



## Noobhammer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i dont think ugly when i see noctua fans....i see quality


All of this^



Shame they aren't more visible.
My last rig only had 180mm fans so I couldn't be cool.
Now I'm reppin.


----------



## Masta Squidge

Quick and dirty. Fear my handwriting skills.

For anyone wondering, this thing does indeed fit inside an Antec 1200 V1 case. But I cannot use my side fan, at least with the Sabertooth Z77. Perhaps another board with the socket a half inch towards the top of the case would work just fine though.


----------



## NKrader

i dont have any noctua products left other than my new 3x NF-B9's


----------



## animal0307

Updating the club list tonight.

Got some new A14's and finished up my external rad.Sorry about the side ways pics.


----------



## doyll

Nice!
Gotta love the 120 to 140mm mount extensions.


----------



## Theroty

I picked up a NH-D14 today for just a bit over 37 dollars after sales tax. I'm trading my ram (Corsair Vengeance) for some Kingston with normal heat spreaders to make it fit in my Antec 1200. The cooler will be replacing my Hyper 212+ . I found at it a local Essex. Excited to be getting it in my tower. I almost passed it up because I really don't need it at the moment, but at that price I couldnt pass it up.


----------



## Dragon-Emperor

HI guys,

This is a question regarding the beaten to death topic of "dyeing your Noctua fans".
I know the P12's have been successfully dyed on overclock3d.net, largely due to being able to disassemble and reassemble the fan after the P12 parts soak in the dye/ boiling water an hour or two.

The NF-F12's have had no success stories from what I've seen, because this fan cannot be disassembled. I believe its related to a 'sealed bearing' of some short.

ANYWAYS, I was thinking, if we cannot disassemble the fan, and we just don't want water getting in the motor at the center, would it be possible to fill the narrow space with water-proof silicone, let dry, and then place the entire unit in black dye - and then peel out the silicone?
I'm not sure how well the silicone will hold, in terms of water-proofing, in the boiling water. Nor am I sure how easily the silicone will remove from the fans plastic.

Any thoughts? If it makes sense o more than just my head, I wouldn't mind being the guinea pig and trying.

Thanks for reading


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragon-Emperor*
> 
> HI guys,
> 
> This is a question regarding the beaten to death topic of "dyeing your Noctua fans".
> I know the P12's have been successfully dyed on overclock3d.net, largely due to being able to disassemble and reassemble the fan after the P12 parts soak in the dye/ boiling water an hour or two.
> 
> The NF-F12's have had no success stories from what I've seen, because this fan cannot be disassembled. I believe its related to a 'sealed bearing' of some short.
> 
> ANYWAYS, I was thinking, if we cannot disassemble the fan, and we just don't want water getting in the motor at the center, would it be possible to fill the narrow space with water-proof silicone, let dry, and then place the entire unit in black dye - and then peel out the silicone?
> I'm not sure how well the silicone will hold, in terms of water-proofing, in the boiling water. Nor am I sure how easily the silicone will remove from the fans plastic.
> 
> Any thoughts? If it makes sense o more than just my head, I wouldn't mind being the guinea pig and trying.
> 
> Thanks for reading


You're more than welcome to try, but you'll also need to pull off the sticker and fill the entire motor area with silicone as well. Even then, there are so many miniscule cracks and gaps that have to potential to cause catastrophe that I highly doubt it would work. You're more than welcome to try it though.

IMO, I wouldn't want to destroy a $25 fan with water


----------



## Dragon-Emperor

Why peel off a sticker that could already be water-tight on its own? It's a metal sticker, right?
Unless the adhesive would give from the temperature change?

If I peeled off the sticker, I would just fill the opening with silicone. Filling the entire motor with silicone doesn't sound like a good idea when it comes to clean up.


----------



## toyz72

hey guys, when do we expect to see this cooler on the market. you guys know im a super nuctua fan and really want to get my hands on this on.

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=64&lng=en

if anyone happens to come across a release date,or better yet see one up for sale....plz let me know







ill be looking to add this one to my system.















thx guys for any info


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dragon-Emperor*
> 
> HI guys,
> 
> This is a question regarding the beaten to death topic of "dyeing your Noctua fans".
> I know the P12's have been successfully dyed on overclock3d.net, largely due to being able to disassemble and reassemble the fan after the P12 parts soak in the dye/ boiling water an hour or two.
> 
> The NF-F12's have had no success stories from what I've seen, because this fan cannot be disassembled. I believe its related to a 'sealed bearing' of some short.
> 
> ANYWAYS, I was thinking, if we cannot disassemble the fan, and we just don't want water getting in the motor at the center, would it be possible to fill the narrow space with water-proof silicone, let dry, and then place the entire unit in black dye - and then peel out the silicone?
> I'm not sure how well the silicone will hold, in terms of water-proofing, in the boiling water. Nor am I sure how easily the silicone will remove from the fans plastic.
> 
> Any thoughts? If it makes sense o more than just my head, I wouldn't mind being the guinea pig and trying.
> 
> Thanks for reading
> 
> 
> 
> You're more than welcome to try, but you'll also need to pull off the sticker and fill the entire motor area with silicone as well. Even then, there are so many miniscule cracks and gaps that have to potential to cause catastrophe that I highly doubt it would work. You're more than welcome to try it though.
> 
> IMO, I wouldn't want to destroy a $25 fan with water
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragon-Emperor*
> 
> Why peel off a sticker that could already be water-tight on its own? It's a metal sticker, right?
> Unless the adhesive would give from the temperature change?
> 
> If I peeled off the sticker, I would just fill the opening with silicone. Filling the entire motor with silicone doesn't sound like a good idea when it comes to clean up.


Silicone will just destroy the fan as well as water. You will practically glue the hub to frame.

So why don't you just take a page from Noctua themselves and drop the whole thing in all at once with out taking it apart? Only problem I see is with the "extreme" temperatures.



Quote:


> The C- and L-series prototypes shown at Computex represent development projects for updating the existing NH-C14, NH-C12P SE14 and NH-L12 in 2013. In addition to the new heatsink prototypes, Noctua presented a SecuFirm2™ mounting solution for Narrow ILM Xeon E5 2600 platforms *as well as IP66 compliant dust and waterproof fans for industrial applications.*


source


----------



## WebsterXC

Wow that's really cool, I had no idea they were coming out with those fans. The reason I gave the advice I did was I guess I assumed he already owned a bunch of F-12's and was trying to avoid purchasing new fans.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> I picked up a NH-D14 today for just a bit over 37 dollars after sales tax. I'm trading my ram (Corsair Vengeance) for some Kingston with normal heat spreaders to make it fit in my Antec 1200. The cooler will be replacing my Hyper 212+ . I found at it a local Essex. Excited to be getting it in my tower. I almost passed it up because I really don't need it at the moment, but at that price I couldnt pass it up.


That's a steal! Was it BNIB? And what's an Essex? Googled it but PoRn came up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> hey guys, when do we expect to see this cooler on the market. you guys know im a super nuctua fan and really want to get my hands on this on.
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=64&lng=en
> if anyone happens to come across a release date,or better yet see one up for sale....plz let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ill be looking to add this one to my system.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thx guys for any info


Nice rig. All Noctua'd up


----------



## Dragon-Emperor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Silicone will just destroy the fan as well as water. You will practically glue the hub to frame.
> 
> So why don't you just take a page from Noctua themselves and drop the whole thing in all at once with out taking it apart? Only problem I see is with the "extreme" temperatures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> source


That's AWESOME!
I know I am taking a gamble with the water and the temperature either way, but I'll see about trying today, if my local craft store has some Rit dye.
Regardless of how it turns out, I'll post my findings


----------



## Theroty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That's a steal! Was it BNIB? And what's an Essex? Googled it but PoRn came up.
> Nice rig. All Noctua'd up


It had been opened, but everything was still in the box. The common parts, install kits for intel and amd, and as well both fans. The heatsink is in perfect condition and undamaged. From what I gather from being in there, they buy returned, damaged, or opened items and sell them wholesale. They had it listed for 48.99 and then because it had been there since Feb. it was additional 30% off.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragon-Emperor*
> 
> That's AWESOME!
> I know I am taking a gamble with the water and the temperature either way, but I'll see about trying today, if my local craft store has some Rit dye.
> Regardless of how it turns out, I'll post my findings


I used to get Rit dye in my local supermarket in the laundry supply section.

I would stuff paper towel or something to keep the dye from collecting on the electronics and motor. This way dye water has to go though this tight stuffing and the dye will hopefully be filtered out and not creat the potential problem of shorting out the electronics. Dye water does not need to boil. Just needs to be hot. And rinse it out good with distilled water immediately after dyeing. And let it dry out very well before you use it.. I don't care if they show it running in water or not.








Look forward to seeing what they look like!


----------



## Sethris225

Count me in!

5 x Noctua NF-A14 FLXs and
1 x Noctua NF-F12 PWM

But in case you didn't believe me;


Yeah, I know, you can't see the other four NF-A14s, but believe me they're on the top and bottom of the Phantom 820.
More pics in my sig.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Count me in!
> 
> 5 x Noctua NF-A14 FLXs and
> 1 x Noctua NF-F12 PWM
> 
> But in case you didn't believe me;
> 
> 
> Yeah, I know, you can't see the other four NF-A14s, but believe me they're on the top and bottom of the Phantom 820.
> More pics in my sig.


Oh my. I don't think I've ever seen a rig pull off unsleeved cables and air cooling so well (not to be sterotypical!); most people just throw it in their rig and call it good to go. That is beautiful sir


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Oh my. I don't think I've ever seen a rig pull off unsleeved cables and air cooling so well (not to be sterotypical!); most people just throw it in their rig and call it good to go. That is beautiful sir


Thanks! Planning to watercool really soon (even tore off my HDD cages + drive bays to put a modded 420mm in the front and top).

Still not sure what to do on the sleeving end; originally I was thinking I'd just buy Corsair's official (white) AX1200 individually sleeved cables off their site, but I might do my own sleeving. Still not sure.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> It had been opened, but everything was still in the box. The common parts, install kits for intel and amd, and as well both fans. The heatsink is in perfect condition and undamaged. From what I gather from being in there, they buy returned, damaged, or opened items and sell them wholesale. They had it listed for 48.99 and then because it had been there since Feb. it was additional 30% off.


Man, I need to find one of those stores! Sweet deal! I dont need one, but for that price, I'd get it too.


----------



## Sethris225

Here's some more pics, where you can actually see the remaining NF-A14s.


----------



## WebsterXC

What kind of camera are you using? Kudos to your excellent photography skills, everything is in perfect focus.

My dad got a Nikon professional a couple months back but I cannot figure it out for the life of me


----------



## shilka

Not really a Noctua update but wanted to show my PC how it looks now


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> What kind of camera are you using? Kudos to your excellent photography skills, everything is in perfect focus.
> 
> My dad got a Nikon professional a couple months back but I cannot figure it out for the life of me


It's a Canon Rebel XS; borrowed it from the school I go to.
I know some things about cameras (for example, I understand how to shoot in manual) but I wouldn't say a lot by a long shot.

Oh, and thank you, I appreciate the complement. I end up deleting a lot of stuff after I shoot, often I twitch or something (yep, no tripod) and screw up shots.


----------



## Theroty

I got my NH-d14 all set up! Everything is at top notch. I even worked on my cables while I was at it. I took a few pictures but they are pretty crappy. I will get them uploaded a bit later. Add me to the list please!


----------



## Dragon-Emperor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I used to get Rit dye in my local supermarket in the laundry supply section.
> 
> I would stuff paper towel or something to keep the dye from collecting on the electronics and motor. This way dye water has to go though this tight stuffing and the dye will hopefully be filtered out and not creat the potential problem of shorting out the electronics. Dye water does not need to boil. Just needs to be hot. And rinse it out good with distilled water immediately after dyeing. And let it dry out very well before you use it.. I don't care if they show it running in water or not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look forward to seeing what they look like!


Good call Doyll! I'll see about cutting up a cotton rag into thin ribbony strips to put in the gaps that I can. This way, when I remove them later, I wont be left with papery bits stuck inside.

I was in a big hurry to pick up the dye after the fan, since work was creeping up on me (just got home ahhh) so I picked up both black Rit dyes (liquid and powder).

From what I read now, I suppose the liquid would be the better choice (top section of image) as it says "will stain plastic". Unfortunately it says it is not recommended for rubber, so I wonder what will happen to the vibration dampeners.

The fan is really something when a person sees and feels it for the first time. Really, quality all around!


I am surprised that neither package has actual directions with them, but I suppose I will simply follow the directions in the original post, bring the water to a boil, then set it to the lowest setting, wait a while and put in the fan with the dye
I had no time to pick up distilled water for the boiling and cleaning process. I'll do that when I wake up and post the results!

One question for you guys, do you think I'll have trouble with the fan floating up in the water? I think I will since it will still be assembled once in the water.
*Any ideas on how to keep this beauty submerged for the 1-2 hours I'll be dyeing its soul black?*


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragon-Emperor*
> 
> Good call Doyll! I'll see about cutting up a cotton rag into thin ribbony strips to put in the gaps that I can. This way, when I remove them later, I wont be left with papery bits stuck inside.
> 
> I was in a big hurry to pick up the dye after the fan, since work was creeping up on me (just got home ahhh) so I picked up both black Rit dyes (liquid and powder).
> 
> From what I read now, I suppose the liquid would be the better choice (top section of image) as it says "will stain plastic". Unfortunately it says it is not recommended for rubber, so I wonder what will happen to the vibration dampeners.
> 
> The fan is really something when a person sees and feels it for the first time. Really, quality all around!
> 
> 
> I am surprised that neither package has actual directions with them, but I suppose I will simply follow the directions in the original post, bring the water to a boil, then set it to the lowest setting, wait a while and put in the fan with the dye
> I had no time to pick up distilled water for the boiling and cleaning process. I'll do that when I wake up and post the results!
> 
> One question for you guys, do you think I'll have trouble with the fan floating up in the water? I think I will since it will still be assembled once in the water.
> *Any ideas on how to keep this beauty submerged for the 1-2 hours I'll be dyeing its soul black?*


Found this for you. Lots of other info about dyeing there too.
Quote:


> This is the best technique for dyeing small or delicate items.
> 
> (Never use Rit Dye in a plastic or fiberglass sink or tub - it will stain.)
> 
> Fill sink or bucket with enough hot water for fabric to move freely. Remember: Use 1 package of Rit powder or 1/2 bottle of Rit liquid dye and 3 gallons of hot water for each pound of fabric. Pre-dissolve powder in 2 cups of hot water. Add pre-dissolved powder or liquid to dye bath. Stir to mix.
> Wet fabric in hot water. Uncrumple and add to dye bath.
> Stir constantly (back and forth, up and down) for 10 to 30 minutes.
> Rinse in warm water, then gradually cooler water until water runs clear. Wash item in warm water with mild detergent and rinse thoroughly in cool water.
> Dry item in dryer or air dry.
> 
> Clean sink or bucket immediately with chlorine bleach or scrub with chlorine-based powder, liquid, or gel cleanser.


http://www.ritdye.com/dyeing-techniques/sink-or-bucket

I prefer liquid myself

The only reason to use distilled water when rinsing after it's already running clear water is because distilled water rinses of anything that normal water left that might conduct electricity.

Put it in clear water and see if it floats. If it does try puttting mounting screws in all holes on both sides. That might be enough weight to keep it down.. and if not it gives you some place to set something on. Set a glass or similar on top of mounting screws in 2 corners to hold it down. of course glass needs to be full of water.


----------



## WebsterXC

I'd assume the rubber would just turn a lighter shade of black, probably more like a grey.

Good luck with the dying! I'm very interested to see how this turns out.


----------



## Dragon-Emperor

Currently on my tablet in front if the oven.
The first hour has begun! If its still dull after this, I'll leave for another hour. It sinks on its own just fine.

Currently its 5 cups of distilled water, half a bottle of black rit liquid dye.
Holding between 150-160f (this damn electric oven isn't very obedient!)

THE SUSPENSE.


----------



## Dragon-Emperor

An hour in, things are not looking good. Added the other half of the dye and am raising the temperature to 180f.
One more hour...


----------



## ZeVo

Sad news regarding one of my NF-A14's. It started to leak oil. I honestly thought this only happened with older models of Noctua fans.

Hopefully the RMA goes smoothly.


----------



## Dragon-Emperor

So when I saw the result at the end of hour 1, I was pretty disappointed.
For hour 2, I...
- added the remaining half of the black dye
- added quarter cup of vinegar (a Rit Dye website said adding 1/2 cup would make colors more INTENSE. So went with a 1/4 cup due to gut feeling)
- raised temperature to 180F
- Flipped the fan in the pot every 20 minutes

After the 2nd hour, things were looking good, so I kept the fan in another 20 minutes and this is what I got with my tongs:



That nasty coffee grind **** started building on the surface when I raised the temperature to 180F. Evidence of a stronger chemical reaction I suppose?

I then placed the fan in another pot, and rinsed with distilled water, and began wiping down fan blades with paper towel while sitting in the distilled water (still not sure if the temperature shock from 180F to room temp 65F did any harm). After a few paper towel, I drained the water and filled in more distilled water. Here's what it looked like:



The blades looked black while the frame looked an uneven purple.

I then cleaned out more dye residue from corners and the impeller shaft with Q-Tips.
Still not satisfied, and running low on distilled water, I added dish soap to the pot and wiped down the fan more with soapy water, rinsed with tap water, soaped it again.. rinsed with tap water.. and FINALLY rinsed really good with what I had left of distilled water. Here's what it looks like at my desk:




In the photos the frame looks purple, but it looks dark blue to me in person. Its even color aside from the corners where the ant-vibration pads go. The blades are a very solid and nice looking black.

The rubber corner vibration pads did not change color at all.

I'm anxious to plug this in but feel like I should wait...


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Sad news regarding one of my NF-A14's. It started to leak oil. I honestly thought this only happened with older models of Noctua fans.
> 
> Hopefully the RMA goes smoothly.


Oh that makes me worry about my recently bought A14's. Though i've never had issues with any of my previous Noctua fans so fingers crossed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragon-Emperor*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So when I saw the result at the end of hour 1, I was pretty disappointed.
> For hour 2, I...
> - added the remaining half of the black dye
> - added quarter cup of vinegar (a Rit Dye website said adding 1/2 cup would make colors more INTENSE. So went with a 1/4 cup due to gut feeling)
> - raised temperature to 180F
> - Flipped the fan in the pot every 20 minutes
> 
> After the 2nd hour, things were looking good, so I kept the fan in another 20 minutes and this is what I got with my tongs:
> 
> 
> 
> That nasty coffee grind **** started building on the surface when I raised the temperature to 180F. Evidence of a stronger chemical reaction I suppose?
> 
> I then placed the fan in another pot, and rinsed with distilled water, and began wiping down fan blades with paper towel while sitting in the distilled water (still not sure if the temperature shock from 180F to room temp 65F did any harm). After a few paper towel, I drained the water and filled in more distilled water. Here's what it looked like:
> 
> 
> 
> The blades looked black while the frame looked an uneven purple.
> 
> I then cleaned out more dye residue from corners and the impeller shaft with Q-Tips.
> Still not satisfied, and running low on distilled water, I added dish soap to the pot and wiped down the fan more with soapy water, rinsed with tap water, soaped it again.. rinsed with tap water.. and FINALLY rinsed really good with what I had left of distilled water. Here's what it looks like at my desk:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photos the frame looks purple, but it looks dark blue to me in person. Its even color aside from the corners where the ant-vibration pads go. The blades are a very solid and nice looking black.
> 
> The rubber corner vibration pads did not change color at all.
> 
> I'm anxious to plug this in but feel like I should wait...


That's dedication. I'm not sure I could do that to a Noctua that I know works. I'm interested to see how it all turns out though. I wonder if soaking it like you did has done and detrimental damage to the longevity of the fan/bearing.

But either way, +1 rep for going all out to find out.


----------



## RickH

Has anyone tried recoloring their fans with spray vinyl dye instead of hot soaking? I'd think it would be a lot gentler on the fan's bearing seals. Spray vinyl dye is used by a lot of case modders; I used it once to recolor an LCD monitor to match a custom PC build and it worked great, looked like a normal factory color. Generally gives really good results, and is easy to use, since the occasional drip just evaporates / soaks into the plastic. Just be sure to get actual vinyl dye (that soaks in), and not any kind of paint (that layers on top), since paint would clog up the fine airflow control features and add weight to the blades and probably imbalance them.


----------



## doyll

@Dragon-Emperor:
There is no reason to use distilled water until you have rinsed all of the dye off.

The purpose of distilled water final rinse is it has no impurities in it so will remove anything that will leave spots on finish.. and more importantly in the electronics traces where it might conduct electricity and short something out.

That's why it's used in car-washes.. but is an extra with extra cost.







FYI: the pipes and spay tips erode away quite fast because distilled water eats the trace minerals/metal to replenish itself back to normal water impurity level.









Your dye is too thick! Pot of dyeing solution should be very runny like water... not like gravey.









@RichH;
I have used leather / vinyl dye on fans. The same stuff used to refurbish upholstery and interiors in cars. You have to be careful but I think it's easier to use than paint.


----------



## VindalooJim

I apologise in advance for the poor picture quality.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VindalooJim*
> 
> I apologise in advance for the poor picture quality.


Amazing build.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragon-Emperor*


Fantastic job actually doing the work to get the fan black. It doesn't look horrible, but I can see where the dye just wouldn't soak in all the way. Interested to see how it works too.

+rep for your work!


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VindalooJim*
> 
> I apologise in advance for the poor picture quality.
> 
> -snip-
> 
> -snip-


Looks fantastic! Are those Corsair's individually sleeved (they're going directly into the power supply, after all)?
Oh and I love how the Senns match the fans, haha.


----------



## ZeVo

Update on my "RMA" process.

What I am experiencing seems normal:
Quote:


> this is most likely excess oil from the production process and it won't have any impact on the performance nor life expectancy of your fan. I would recommend you to remove these droplets using a soft tissue, because in this case no further action is required. Furthermore we would like to offer you a warranty extension from six to seven years for the affected fan.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Update on my "RMA" process.
> 
> What I am experiencing seems normal:


Just keep running it until it dies or starts making weird noises, I'm actually surprised that they offered to extend the fan warranty for a year.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VindalooJim*
> 
> I apologise in advance for the poor picture quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really clean rig.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Just keep running it until it dies or starts making weird noises, I'm actually surprised that they offered to extend the fan warranty for a year.


Them doing that just made love them even more. I probably won't extend the warranty as I'll have different fans in a couple years, but this shows how good this company is. It takes ASUS five days to reply to my messages. It took Noctua a single day.


----------



## Dragon-Emperor

So a day after I dyed the fan, I was waving it back and forth through the air (like an idiot) trying to air dry out any remaining water.
I did not have the power cable secured in its little cable nook at this time. My waving then severed the black wire from the fan. The 180F water likely made the connections brittle.

SO finally today, I bought a soldering iron (Haako FX-888D) with a 0.2mm tip small enough to get in that damn fan and reconnected the wire.

Fan sounds great at full speed in all orientations!
I'll play around with it on PWM headers next to see how it sounds at different rpms.

And if all of that works out... I have another test in mind, that will hopefully make the dyeing process more efficient for my next Noctua sacrifice.









Also, thanks for the +rep. It was my first so I was very proud of it!


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragon-Emperor*
> 
> So a day after I dyed the fan, I was waving it back and forth through the air (like an idiot) trying to air dry out any remaining water.
> I did not have the power cable secured in its little cable nook at this time. My waving then severed the black wire from the fan. The 180F water likely made the connections brittle.
> 
> SO finally today, I bought a soldering iron (Haako FX-888D) with a 0.2mm tip small enough to get in that damn fan and reconnected the wire.
> 
> Fan sounds great at full speed in all orientations!
> I'll play around with it on PWM headers next to see how it sounds at different rpms.
> 
> And if all of that works out... I have another test in mind, that will hopefully make the dyeing process more efficient for my next Noctua sacrifice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, thanks for the +rep. It was my first so I was very proud of it!


That's awesome that it worked. You should make some videos of the process for the next one.


----------



## Lisjak

Hey guys, posted this in the Air cooled gallery a while back but there isn't much going on there







Anyway bought myself a Noctua NH-C14 and I love it. It's very silent. Didn't expect it would be SO big tho. Had to move my gpu to the second pci-e slot.









 

 

It's a bit of a mess in there because the case doesn't have cable management, but oh well.


----------



## mironccr345

That's a beast of a cooler. I've always wanted one.


----------



## animal0307

I had one and in loved it. Quiet and kept my mobo cool


----------



## Lisjak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That's a beast of a cooler. I've always wanted one.


From your sig rig I can see you have what I always wanted







(watercooling)

Animal why did you swap yours? Better temps with the H50?


----------



## shilka

Lisjak that case of yours looks ancient


----------



## Lever Guy

love my NH-D14. keeps my 2500K @ 4.4Ghz (1.27v) under 50°C while encoding/gaming.
under 60°C 4xAVX prime testing.










it's quiet enough without the resistors. didn't feel the need since my case fans are just as loud.


----------



## DarkChaos205

Just got my NH-14D last night got my i-5 OC to 4.5 works amazing!!


----------



## Lisjak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Lisjak that case of yours looks ancient


That is probably because it is







I think I have it for almost 9 years now







But it's a good case still. It is all steel construction and the paint finish still looks like new







They don't make them like they used to anymore







But when I'll upgrade my pc I will probably buy a new case as well, but god knows when that's gonna happen


----------



## toyz72

well i went over to noctuas's website today. i wanted to check out the compatibility of they're new coolers. both coolers have issues with my mobo of course .it seems i have to buy the i3 kit to make them work,or buy the cooler and send them proof to get it free. why wouldn't you just include the mounting hardware to begin with?i was really looking forward to buying the newer 140mm cooler.

i know noctua's makes good mounting kits,but how good do you think the i3 mounting kit will work out? i dont want something that feels like it was just rigged to work or a super pain to reseat.i understand they leaned these toward the 2011 socket,but i think they could have had more compatibility towards 1155 socket to.

does anyone know the price of the i3 kit off hand,or where i could order one from?


----------



## Lever Guy

toyz72, this is on the msi z77 mpower? what makes it not fit?


----------



## YounGMessiah

Please add me, now a proud owner of a DH-14


----------



## doyll

Welcome YounGMessiah.

From your pics it looks like the back of your GPU is very close to cooler intake fan. If you don't have 30mm clearance I suggest changing your pull/pull intake and middle fans to push/push middle and exhaust. This will give you better and quieter cooler.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YounGMessiah*
> 
> Please add me, now a proud owner of a DH-14
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome to the club.


----------



## YounGMessiah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Welcome YounGMessiah.
> 
> From your pics it looks like the back of your GPU is very close to cooler intake fan. If you don't have 30mm clearance I suggest changing your pull/pull intake and middle fans to push/push middle and exhaust. This will give you better and quieter cooler.


Yea I have roughly over 20mm clearance its a tight squeeze, im a bit confused on your wording sorry? (But I do want to take it into consideration, what did you mean)

Reason why its that and the cpu cooler is not exhausting through the back is I didnt do my homework and didnt know I needed low profile RAM, so once I get the lower profile RAM Ill swap the cooler the other direction.

I have the Vengeance series RAM from Corsair, just a 8GB running on single channel. Soon im going to get these since they are the only low profile I could find in the 1600MHz range and compat. with my motherboard

And thanks Mironccr345 I love this cooler!!


----------



## Theroty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YounGMessiah*
> 
> Yea I have roughly over 20mm clearance its a tight squeeze, im a bit confused on your wording sorry? (But I do want to take it into consideration, what did you mean)
> 
> Reason why its that and the cpu cooler is not exhausting through the back is I didnt do my homework and didnt know I needed low profile RAM, so once I get the lower profile RAM Ill swap the cooler the other direction.
> I have the Vengeance series RAM from Corsair, just a 8GB running on single channel. Soon im going to get these since they are the only low profile I could find in the 1600MHz range and compat. with my motherboard
> 
> And thanks Mironccr345 I love this cooler!!


I think the point is that since your video card is so close it could be affecting the amount of airflow the fan that is closest to the video card is moving. That maybe if you change it from:

Heatsink
Fan
Heatsink
Fan
Video

To:
Fan
Heatsink
Fan
Heatsink
Video

Maybe that way will get better airflow and maybe it will be a bit more quiet.

I have noticed a 10-13c drop at least over my Hyper 212+ at 4.2 ghz with my FX8350. I know this thing is huge but like I said in my post a few pages back, at 37 dollars after taxes I couldn't pass it up!


----------



## doyll

What Theroty said pretty well explains it YounGMessiah:thumb:


----------



## Essenbe

Is this good enough to get me in?


----------



## FatalProximity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VindalooJim*
> 
> I apologise in advance for the poor picture quality.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Loving the matching headphones and dedication to brown haha.

I'm hoping to post some pics of my rig later tonight. Currently using the C-14 and P-12 as a rear exhaust.


----------



## Theroty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> Is this good enough to get me in?


Nice setup! I will get my pics up later today finally. Lots of nice computers in here!


----------



## YounGMessiah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> I think the point is that since your video card is so close it could be affecting the amount of airflow the fan that is closest to the video card is moving. That maybe if you change it from:
> 
> Heatsink
> Fan
> Heatsink
> Fan
> Video
> 
> To:
> Fan
> Heatsink
> Fan
> Heatsink
> Video
> 
> Maybe that way will get better airflow and maybe it will be a bit more quiet.
> 
> I have noticed a 10-13c drop at least over my Hyper 212+ at 4.2 ghz with my FX8350. I know this thing is huge but like I said in my post a few pages back, at 37 dollars after taxes I couldn't pass it up!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What Theroty said pretty well explains it YounGMessiah:thumb:


Thanks guys I will give that a go, but if I change it up to how it was said in the quote then my radiator for my GPU wont be able to fit at top I think.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YounGMessiah*
> 
> Thanks guys I will give that a go, but if I change it up to how it was said in the quote then my radiator for my GPU wont be able to fit at top I think.


Than turn you CPU cooler so it's exhausting out the back with the fans in pull/pull; or as Theroty put it cooler/fan/cooler/fan.. or is it the cooler that does not clear your RAM?


----------



## YounGMessiah

Yeah I need to get some low profile RAM =/

My RAM thats listed in my build is wrong, I have the Vengeance series RAM from Corsair. With the higher heatsink


----------



## VindalooJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> Is this good enough to get me in?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's Noctua, so yes









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatalProximity*
> 
> Loving the matching headphones and dedication to brown haha.


Haha. That was actually completely coincidentally that they matched. I didn't buy the headphones to match my Noctuas but I think it's pretty awesome that they do.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lever Guy*
> 
> toyz72, this is on the msi z77 mpower? what makes it not fit?


it says it interferes with something on the back of the mobo? so you need the i3 mount kit


----------



## YounGMessiah

Im honestly thinking of just removing the heatsink from my RAM, Ive never needed it before.. IMO its more for looks and might affect the temps (on the RAM) by 1-2 at most...


----------



## YounGMessiah

My case came with a 140mm fan on the rear; currently I have that fan exhausting out. Once I remove the heatsink from my RAM, I will then have room to put the cooler the way I want; that is having the CPU cooler exhausting to my rear instead of the top.

My question, should I keep that 140mm there to help exhaust what the cooler is pushing??


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YounGMessiah*
> 
> Im honestly thinking of just removing the heatsink from my RAM, Ive never needed it before.. IMO its more for looks and might affect the temps (on the RAM) by 1-2 at most...


I've only had to remove heat spreaders from one set of RAM but it's pretty common to do. Heating them up with a heat gun or hair dryer will make it easier. Just be careful and don't pry too hard or fast.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YounGMessiah*
> 
> My case came with a 140mm fan on the rear; currently I have that fan exhausting out. Once I remove the heatsink from my RAM, I will then have room to put the cooler the way I want; that is having the CPU cooler exhausting to my rear instead of the top.
> My question, should I keep that 140mm there to help exhaust what the cooler is pushing??


Most people use fans on front and middle of cooler as well as back vent fan. I usually remove the grill in the back vent and fabricate a duct from cooler to vent. This insures all hot cooler exhaust goes out of case and none can mix with case air and raise the temperature of air going into cooler. I often leave the bottom open to motherboard and don't use the motherboard I/O shield so airflow under cooler of motherboard heatsinks is not interrupted.

Airflow and cooling is very specific and every case, motherboard, cooler, cooler fans, case fans, cables, etc. combination create different challenges.


----------



## Theroty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YounGMessiah*
> 
> My case came with a 140mm fan on the rear; currently I have that fan exhausting out. Once I remove the heatsink from my RAM, I will then have room to put the cooler the way I want; that is having the CPU cooler exhausting to my rear instead of the top.
> My question, should I keep that 140mm there to help exhaust what the cooler is pushing??


I would keep it as exhaust. You will need something to pull that hot air hot of the case and away from the Noctua. Honestly, when I was typing my earlier response I didn't pay attention to the fact the radiator had been moved to the top..







I was in the same situation as you with the Corsair Vengeance but fortunately for me a friend of my had some Kingston Hyper X of the same speed that was low profile. We swapped and that cleared me for go on the Noctua without having to remove the heat spreaders from the Corsair Vengeance.


----------



## YounGMessiah

Well carefully removed the heatsink from my RAM, removed cooler cleaned it and the cpu, moved brackets, placed RAM back in my 2nd slot where I liked it, put thermal compound, screwed in and yup...


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Essenbe*
> 
> Is this good enough to get me in?


That's plenty to get you in. I'll update the list when I get home. I just jumped the smart phone bandwagon and I'm not sure how to edit Google docs from it yet or if its possible.


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YounGMessiah*
> 
> Well carefully removed the heatsink from my RAM, removed cooler cleaned it and the cpu, moved brackets, placed RAM back in my 2nd slot where I liked it, put thermal compound, screwed in and yup...





Love the NHD-14! Nice


----------



## Masta Squidge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YounGMessiah*
> 
> Yea I have roughly over 20mm clearance its a tight squeeze, im a bit confused on your wording sorry? (But I do want to take it into consideration, what did you mean)
> 
> Reason why its that and the cpu cooler is not exhausting through the back is I didnt do my homework and didnt know I needed low profile RAM, so once I get the lower profile RAM Ill swap the cooler the other direction.
> I have the Vengeance series RAM from Corsair, just a 8GB running on single channel. Soon im going to get these since they are the only low profile I could find in the 1600MHz range and compat. with my motherboard
> 
> And thanks Mironccr345 I love this cooler!!


Forget rearranging fans, turn it 90 degrees so the airflow is inline with the fan on the back of the case.

Whether it is an intake or exhaust, line up your cpu cooler with it. I run mine in this fashion, and at idle my 3370K sits at 20-30c. One core seems to idle way cooler than the others, but temps are even under load. I max out at 68-70c @ 4.5ghz.

EDIT: You got it. I noticed no change in temps with or without the second fan. I use mine in one of my drive bays now, You could probably get away with taking it off, and there would be all sorts of clearance.

EDIT TWO: If you took the heatsink off, you probably voided its warranty anyways. You could always cut the fins down if you wan't at least some of the spreader on your ram.


----------



## YounGMessiah

Already got my results how I want them now , thanks though.

And I dont care about voiding memory warranty lol, hell do you see my aftermarket cooler on my GPU? Just voided a 550 USD item


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've only had to remove heat spreaders from one set of RAM but it's pretty common to do. Heating them up with a heat gun or hair dryer will make it easier. Just be careful and don't pry too hard or fast.


Not necessary for Vengeance. The adhesive is so weak, you're safer just slowing peeling.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YounGMessiah*
> 
> Already got my results how I want them now , thanks though.
> 
> And I dont care about voiding memory warranty lol, hell do you see my aftermarket cooler on my GPU? Just voided a 550 USD item


----------



## YounGMessiah

The heatsinks came off easily lol


----------



## Theroty

Well, I finally got around too taking a pic. The lightning in my house is not very picture friendly at all so I sat the case in front of a window in the kitchen. Here ya go though!

http://s103.photobucket.com/user/rotyp/media/IMG_0155_zps0ce1dbd4.jpg.html


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> Well, I finally got around too taking a pic. The lightning in my house is not very picture friendly at all so I sat the case in front of a window in the kitchen. Here ya go though!
> 
> http://s103.photobucket.com/user/rotyp/media/IMG_0155_zps0ce1dbd4.jpg.html


Looks great

As a note are you aware that your PSU is very low quality?


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Looks great
> 
> As a note are you aware that your PSU is very low quality?


Are you kidding? OCZ Power Supplies are fantastic, especially their 900W+ line. Very low quality would be a random chinese PSU off of eBay. OCZ has made a name for themselves in a lot of markets, and PSU's are one of them. While it's not a Seasonic, it's not like it's going to die any time soon. I owned an OCZ for almost a year and loved it.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Are you kidding? OCZ Power Supplies are fantastic, especially their 900W+ line. Very low quality would be a random chinese PSU off of eBay. OCZ has made a name for themselves in a lot of markets, and PSU's are one of them. While it's not a Seasonic, it's not like it's going to die any time soon. I owned an OCZ for almost a year and loved it.


No its not a great PSU its crap and OCZ does not make a single one of their PSU´s

The Mod XStream is one of the most crappy PSU´s you can buy



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Build Quality

Externally the OCZ 700W ModXStream Pro is a fairly subdued semi-modular design that looks good. The unit has a nice finish, well sleeved cables, good quality modular cables, and a large overhead fan. However, once we open the unit we find that OCZ 700W ModXStream Pro looks very much like a cheap group regulated unit. This is further compounded by the fact that the unit has some questionable component selections in the mystery "Rec" capacitors. Good capacitors only add slightly to the total cost of a unit so why even something along the lines of Samxon or at the very least Teapo was excluded from this build is bewildering. Further, the unit only features a 3 year warranty and with questionable capacitors this is hardly reassuring. Also related here is the unit's "documentation." The documentation that came with the unit is simply a waste of time. This fact is punctuated by the power distribution table at the back of the manual was never actually finished by whomever was annotating it. The only upside to all of this is most of the information about the unit is printed on the packaging, but still sans a correct power distribution table as these are genuinely useful. They are especially useful when units do not follow the ATX12v specification or EPS specification for 12v power distribution such as this unit.



http://www.hardocp.com/article/2008/11/12/ocz_700w_modxstream_pro_power_supply/#.UXw9CMovhxk

And i said nothing about the OCZ was bad i said that the OCZ ModXStream is bad which is the truth


----------



## Theroty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Looks great
> 
> As a note are you aware that your PSU is very low quality?


Well, I have had for about 4 years now. It has never gave me issues except for short cables. Compared to others out there, yes it is not as good. If I were to purchase a PSU today yes I would pick a different brand but as of now I would have to say there is nothing wrong with it though and it does its job just fine.

Thanks for you input, but until it gives me trouble then I have no reason to suspect that is junk.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> Well, I have had for about 4 years now. It has never gave me issues except for short cables. Compared to others out there, yes it is not as good. If I were to purchase a PSU today yes I would pick a different brand but as of now I would have to say there is nothing wrong with it though and it does its job just fine.
> 
> Thanks for you input, but until it gives me trouble then I have no reason to suspect that is junk.


You sould never look at brands as almost every PSU is made ny someone else in fact looking at brands is one of the worst things you can do look at models and seriers

And your PSU is not 700 watts its more like 450-550 watts due to its low quality

It could very well die when you push it too far

Am not trying to insult you am trying to help and inform


----------



## Theroty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You sould never look at brands as almost every PSU is made ny someone else in fact looking at brands is one of the worst things you can do look at models and seriers
> 
> And your PSU is not 700 watts its more like 450-550 watts due to its low quality
> 
> It could very well die when you push it too far
> 
> Am not trying to insult you am trying to help and inform


I know, and I am more informed that I was 4-5 years ago. I am well aware of what to look for in a quality power supply. Like I said though, I have had it for quite some time. I have had this cpu at 100% load at 4.5 ghz for stress testing. I have never had any hiccups out of it and it has never gave me indication that is not worth keeping. Like I said before, when I get another one I will look else where. For the moment though, there is no reason at all for me to replace it.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> I know, and I am more informed that I was 4-5 years ago. I am well aware of what to look for in a quality power supply. Like I said though, I have had it for quite some time. I have had this cpu at 100% load at 4.5 ghz for stress testing. I have never had any hiccups out of it and it has never gave me indication that is not worth keeping. Like I said before, when I get another one I will look else where. For the moment though, there is no reason at all for me to replace it.


Well as long as you are aware and know it sould be replaced


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You sould never look at brands as almost every PSU is made ny someone else in fact looking at brands is one of the worst things you can do look at models and seriers
> 
> And your PSU is not 700 watts its more like 450-550 watts due to its low quality
> 
> It could very well die when you push it too far
> 
> Am not trying to insult you am trying to help and inform


You mad bro?

Not everyone wants to dump thousands into their rig. Stop being elitist and let him be. His build is fine. I pulled 550W from my 600W ModXStream Pro back in the day.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> You mad bro?
> 
> Not everyone wants to dump thousands into their rig. Stop being elitist and let him be. His build is fine. I pulled 550W from my 600W ModXStream Pro back in the day.


And not everyone want to have the risk of having a cheap ... piece of crap in their system you dont need to spend 200$ on a PSU the decent ones start at around 55$ and it goes up to 100$ where you can get something good

Never cheap out on the PSU its a stupid risk to take

Take this as an example its good and its cheap

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207013&Tpk=xfx%20550w%2080%20plus&IsVirtualParent=1


----------



## shilka

*


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> And not everyone want to have the risk of having a cheap ... piece of crap in their system you dont need to spend 200$ on a PSU the good ones start at around 80-100$
> 
> Never cheap out on the PSU its a stupid risk to take
> 
> Take this as an example its good and its cheap
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207013&Tpk=xfx%20550w%2080%20plus&IsVirtualParent=1


My opinion stands. It was very rude of you to criticize his build so harshly. I feel the same way you do, I'm obsessed with power supplies and pretty much only run Corsair or Seasonic power supplies, but everyone starts somewhere. Please use a little more respect when cretiquing a build.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> My opinion stands. It was very rude of you to criticize his build so harshly. I feel the same way you do, I'm obsessed with power supplies and pretty much only run Corsair or Seasonic power supplies, but everyone starts somewhere. Please use a little more respect when cretiquing a build.


And you guys from the US are super oversensitive no matter what i said you where going to say i was rude

I did say it was a great build other then the PSU was not great

I said the truth and i WAS being polite i could have said the PSU was trash which it is but i didn't

Sounds like you cant take any kind criticism no matter how polite i was

And Seasonic and Corsair is not the kings of PSU´s as you like to think


----------



## Sethris225

All the while on the inside I'm laughing at shilka because he has an AX1200, and all three PSUs (HX850, HX850, AX1200) I've bought from Corsair have been faulty/have broken. Sent a ticket for my AX1200 yesterday, still no response.
By the way, don't misunderstand. I love Corsair and very much support them. I'm sure I'm just unlucky. Just commenting on the (albeit indirect) irony.

Now, why don't we get back on topic? This is a thread about fans/cooling, not PSUs.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> All the while on the inside I'm laughing at shilka because he has an AX1200, and all three PSUs (HX850, HX850, AX1200) I've bought from Corsair have been faulty/have broken. Sent a ticket for my AX1200 yesterday, still no response.
> By the way, don't misunderstand. I love Corsair and very much support them. Just commenting on the (albeit indirect) irony.
> 
> Now, why don't we get back on topic? This is a thread about fans/cooling, not PSUs.


I got my PSU for half price brand new only reason i have it

And i am thinking of replacing it due to a lot of reason one being all the monkey users that keep telling me its overkill yes i know thanks

I started by saying great build to Theroty with one line about the PSU

Then WebsterXC started annoying me by saying one illinformed and ignorant thing after another which i had to respond to

And this just proves that no one here on OCN likes to hear criticism in any way and that they dont really want help

Lets get back on topic before i say something that will give me an infraction


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Now, why don't we get back on topic? This is a thread about fans/cooling, not PSUs.


Yes, yes, Noctua yeah woo!









Anybody tried out the two new coolers that Noctua released? U-12S and the U-14S?


----------



## lagittaja

So anyone here planning to get either the NH-U12S or NH-U14S? Impressive coolers.
I'm eyeing on the U14S.. I'm so glad Noctua is keeping the U line of coolers alive. I personally dislike huge twin tower coolers a LOT.
I'm a bit skeptical about the Anandtech's review but it should still be a beast of a cooler.

And might as well add myself to this club. I have a NH-U12P (in my HTPC lol)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> 
> dust galore


----------



## Tator Tot

Thread cleaned up, keep it on the topic of Noctua.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> Thread cleaned up, keep it on the topic of Noctua.


Thank you.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> Thread cleaned up, keep it on the topic of Noctua.


Much appriciated!


----------



## VindalooJim

Hello

I am thinking of getting another NF-P14 to install on my hard drive cage to help lower my GPU temps. Here is what I am proposing (sorry for the crude quality photo) but you get the idea,



I will adjust the PCIe cables if necessary.

So - Yay or nay?


----------



## JadedPrimate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VindalooJim*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I am thinking of getting another NF-P14 to install on my hard drive cage to help lower my GPU temps. Here is what I am proposing (sorry for the crude quality photo) but you get the idea,
> 
> 
> 
> I will adjust the PCIe cables if necessary.
> 
> So - Yay or nay?


I've read people here have had good results with cutting out their rear fan grill (to exhaust more air), and instead of exhausting air out of the top fans using them as intake. In your case you'd have to move the top fan to the right so that it would be above the fan of your CPU cooler, directing the cool air from above into it. The idea behind this is that this will work better than trying to get cool air all the way from the bottom intake fans.

If you want to read up on this stuff, Ehume has written a great post on it.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1041926/how-to-decide-on-a-case-for-air-cooling-warning-pics

But yeah, you weren't actually asking for advice on that.







As for cooling the GPU, I have the same case and I've had good results with installing a fan on the sidepanel. Some people claim you should not do this, since it supposedly interferes with airflow, but for me it lowered my GPU temperatures. That being said, I can't see why what you're proposing wouldn't work, it would blow cool air in between the two cards, so seems to me to be what the doctor ordered.


----------



## VindalooJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JadedPrimate*
> 
> and instead of exhausting air out of the top fans using them as intake. In your case you'd have to move the top fan to the right so that it would be above the fan of your CPU cooler, directing the cool air from above into it. The idea behind this is that this will work better than trying to get cool air all the way from the bottom intake fans.


Yeah I've heard about this before. But I have also read conflicting data (can't find the link - I belive it was anandtech) whic said it is best to leave that fan mouting empty.

I won't be cutting out the rear fan grill however lol.


----------



## JadedPrimate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VindalooJim*
> 
> I won't be cutting out the rear fan grill however lol.


I can't blame you, I haven't done it either.







Just something stopping me from cutting into my case... I guess I am not modding material.


----------



## VindalooJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JadedPrimate*
> 
> I can't blame you, I haven't done it either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just something stopping me from cutting into my case... I guess I am not modding material.


I can't say I am either


----------



## Krullmeister

Hey guys, thought I'd finally join this nifty little club!

I got myself two NF-F12's mounted on my H100i and I have a NF-S12B laying around here somewhere.



Oh and I also just made this:


----------



## JadedPrimate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krullmeister*
> 
> Oh and I also just made this:


That's pretty awesome.


----------



## VindalooJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JadedPrimate*
> 
> and instead of exhausting air out of the top fans using them as intake. In your case you'd have to move the top fan to the right so that it would be above the fan of your CPU cooler, directing the cool air from above into it. The idea behind this is that this will work better than trying to get cool air all the way from the bottom intake fans.


I may just experiment with this.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JadedPrimate*
> 
> But yeah, you weren't actually asking for advice on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for cooling the GPU, I have the same case and I've had good results with installing a fan on the sidepanel. Some people claim you should not do this, since it supposedly interferes with airflow, but for me it lowered my GPU temperatures. That being said, I can't see why what you're proposing wouldn't work, it would blow cool air in between the two cards, so seems to me to be what the doctor ordered.


I had a side pannel fan, it didn't seem to improve my tmeps much it just brought in a load more dust into my case.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> Thread cleaned up, keep it on the topic of Noctua.


Thanks.. Was getting annoying coming to see new posts but they were not even near on topic...

Now, no comments to my Q about the U12S and U14S







? I'm seriously looking at the U14S. Of course with my motherboard I would need to move my GPU to the second slot but that's not really an issue for me, especially considering what the GPU model is


----------



## justanoldman

8 Noctua fans:

Details:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Delidded 3770k, 5.0 @ 1.41v, MVF, 16 gb TridentX 2400, Switch 810
Swiftech: H220, 220 rad bottom, 320 rad top, 140 rad back

5 NF-F12 fans on top/bottom rads, one NF-A14 on 140 rad, two more NF-A14 case fans

Heatkiller hole edition full cover copper block with backplate for the GTX 690

2 Bitspower 45 degree compression fittings, the rest are Swiftech Lok-seal compression, using Swiftech black Truflex 3/8-5/8 tubing

With the rad fans at 60% (the lowest bios settings I have), case fans on the low noise adapter, and the H220 pump at 30% this setup is very quiet. With those quiet settings my Prime95 max core temps with an 8k-8k torture test with 90% ram usage for 15 minutes with the chip at 5.0, 1.41v are:
68, 71, 70, 66 in a 22.7c room

Running a benchmark Valley 1.0 run with a max gpu overclock +155, +740 my two cores are about 40c max.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krullmeister*
> 
> Hey guys, thought I'd finally join this nifty little club!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I got myself two NF-F12's mounted on my H100i and I have a NF-S12B laying around here somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and I also just made this:


I like this idea.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VindalooJim*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JadedPrimate*
> 
> and instead of exhausting air out of the top fans using them as intake. In your case you'd have to move the top fan to the right so that it would be above the fan of your CPU cooler, directing the cool air from above into it. The idea behind this is that this will work better than trying to get cool air all the way from the bottom intake fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I've heard about this before. But I have also read conflicting data (can't find the link - I belive it was anandtech) whic said it is best to leave that fan mouting empty.
> 
> I won't be cutting out the rear fan grill however lol.
Click to expand...

Actually, if all you do is take out your slot covers you will improve your results. Check out what I did with the Nanoxia Deep Silence 2, here.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krullmeister*
> 
> Hey guys, thought I'd finally join this nifty little club!
> 
> I got myself two NF-F12's mounted on my H100i and I have a NF-S12B laying around here somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and I also just made this:


Added. I have mixed feeling about the key chain. It's awesome but that poor fan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> 8 Noctua fans:
> 
> Details:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Delidded 3770k, 5.0 @ 1.41v, MVF, 16 gb TridentX 2400, Switch 810
> Swiftech: H220, 220 rad bottom, 320 rad top, 140 rad back
> 
> 5 NF-F12 fans on top/bottom rads, one NF-A14 on 140 rad, two more NF-A14 case fans
> 
> Heatkiller hole edition full cover copper block with backplate for the GTX 690
> 
> 2 Bitspower 45 degree compression fittings, the rest are Swiftech Lok-seal compression, using Swiftech black Truflex 3/8-5/8 tubing
> 
> With the rad fans at 60% (the lowest bios settings I have), case fans on the low noise adapter, and the H220 pump at 30% this setup is very quiet. With those quiet settings my Prime95 max core temps with an 8k-8k torture test with 90% ram usage for 15 minutes with the chip at 5.0, 1.41v are:
> 68, 71, 70, 66 in a 22.7c room
> 
> Running a benchmark Valley 1.0 run with a max gpu overclock +155, +740 my two cores are about 40c max.


Added. Nice collection.


----------



## YounGMessiah

The DH-14 rocks

Ive been having trouble getting my system to OC manually, but after tons of reading and trying different settings, I got a stable 4.3!

So I have 8GB RAM and used 5 (which brought it up to 7 being used total) and ran the torture test for 12 hours and no BSOD like before!

At the 1-hour mark my CPU spiked briefly to 68 celcius, but then went to 64, then to 60...

Every hour after, it would only hit 60-64 max

Woke up never went above that 68 and max I kept seeing was 60-62.

Forgot to mention the medium range which is where it sat the most, 52-58 celcius

Happy with the results, closed prime95 and let it sit for 1min and its sitting at 32


----------



## doyll

Sounds like you e good!


----------



## VindalooJim

I know the NF-P14s fit in 120mm mounting holes but is it possible to fit two NF-P14s side by side in 120mm mounting holes?


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VindalooJim*
> 
> I know the NF-P14s fit in 120mm mounting holes but is it possible to fit two NF-P14s side by side in 120mm mounting holes?


Depends on the hole spacing.

If it's a setup with 15mm hole spacing (like most radiators) then it's a no. As the fan frame at it's widest part is 140mm.


----------



## toyz72

hey guys....i just orderd the noctua NH-U14S cooler. it say's for my motherboard(mis mpower z77) i need the nm-13 mounting kit. link below...

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=30&lng=en

i own a ch-14 and cp12 cooler. this looks like the same mounting kit i already have? will i need the two parts in the kit with the spring screws? or are these for 1366 mounting?

if so, i'll go ahead and ordered it from noctua. its free anyhow







any knowledge on this would help me out. thanks

almost forgot a link to the cooler....

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=64&lng=en


----------



## JadedPrimate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> hey guys....i just orderd the noctua NH-U14S cooler. it say's for my motherboard(mis mpower z77) i need the nm-13 mounting kit. link below...
> 
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=30&lng=en
> 
> i own a ch-14 and cp12 cooler. this looks like the same mounting kit i already have? will i need the two parts in the kit with the spring screws? or are these for 1366 mounting?
> 
> if so, i'll go ahead and ordered it from noctua. its free anyhow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any knowledge on this would help me out. thanks
> 
> almost forgot a link to the cooler....
> 
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=64&lng=en


There's an installation guide for the mounting kit on the Noctua website.

http://www.noctua.at/pdf/manuals/noctua_nm_i3_kit_manual_en.pdf

It is the same mounting kit as the CH-14 but with the addition of the fastening brackets(the spring screws), and it does look to me like those fastening brackets are needed to make it work.

Edit: If you want to be absolutely sure, why not contact Noctua directly? They have great customer service.

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=kontakt&lng=en


----------



## lagittaja

Well apparently the mounting hardware that comes with the NH-U14S isn't compatible with your motherboard
"Components on the rear side prevent the installation of the supplied NM-IBP2 backplate. "
Just send an email to [email protected] and request the NM-I3 kit from them, be sure include proof that you actually own the motherboard and heatsink.
They'll send you the part quickly.
When I have requested mounting kits from Noctua in the past it has usually taken roughly a week to arrive here to Finland from Austria.

To explain it a bit further. This is the backside of your motherboard. See those two components next to the socket where your backplate goes?


This is the backplate (that black thingy on the right) that comes with NH-U14S, the new NM-IBP2, it will collide with those two parts.


Now here is the older backplate. See how it is different? This is the kit you need. The NM-I3. Like I said just a little bit above, either use the order form or just send an email to them. Either way you can get it completely free.


BUT, since you already have NH-C12P and NH-C14 you might already have this kit! NH-C14 comes with the above NM-I3 or should I say Secufirm 2. So if you already have the NH-C14 installed, just take it off and pop the NH-U14S in and you're done







(err of course use new thermal paste and put the spring screw thingies on the U14S, err refer to the manual, should have everything explained







I'm terrible at explaining stuff lol, it ends up being way too messy post)


----------



## toyz72

hey ....thanks guys. ya im hoping i have enough of the parts all ready to get it installed. i already emailed noctua's support team with a copy of my invoice from newegg. hoping to hear back from them soon so i know whats going on and how long shipping will take.

other than all of that, i'm pretty excited about trying this new cooler out. thanks again for all the help. hope to show off some pic's soon.


----------



## Sethris225

I've heard you can screw up the balance of fan blades by spraypainting them.
Is there any risk in spraypainting fans? I realize it's better to dye them, but I'd prefer not to have to do so..

Excuse my noobery.


----------



## doyll

Unless you know what you are doing you can screw up the balance spray painting.


----------



## WebsterXC

I have to disagree. I spray painted 10 Enermax Magma fans green and they still work fantastically. The weight of paint on a blade is insignificant, you run more risk of the manuacturer casting the impellers incorrectly.


----------



## Baghi

I got the NH-L12 and I'm lovin' it please add me.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> I have to disagree. I spray painted 10 Enermax Magma fans green and they still work fantastically. The weight of paint on a blade is insignificant, you run more risk of the manuacturer casting the impellers incorrectly.


As long as you know how to spray and get an even coat it's no problem. But like I said if you don't know what you are doing you can screw up the balance spray painting.


----------



## Lever Guy

just don't look at it. that's what i do.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As long as you know how to spray and get an even coat it's no problem. But like I said if you don't know what you are doing you can screw up the balance spray painting.


K. It doesn't seem like too much of an issue to evenly coat something. My brain isn't THAT incompetent. Lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lever Guy*
> 
> just don't look at it. that's what i do.


LOL!
Funniest thing I've heard all day. The kinda thing you put in a signature.

Edit: w00t, my 100th post xD


----------



## RickH

I'd use a spray plastic dye, not paint. Vinyl dye soaks into the plastic and the carrier all evaporates off so it only changes the color, it wouldn't leave a layer of stuff gunking up the blades. Actual paint could easily unbalance things enough to cause humming or buzzing noise; all it would take is a few milligrams of difference. Not to mention screwing up Noctua's subtle little airflow control notches and guides.


----------



## Lever Guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> [snip]
> Funniest thing I've heard all day. The kinda thing you put in a signature.
> [snip]


glad someone got a laugh out of it. looks don't mean a whole lot to me when it comes to my PC, but i understand others feel differently. what about a black sharpie, or one of those silver markers? i would test it on a small area first.

ok back to not looking at my brown motherboard, and brown fans.


----------



## Gangleri

i would love to join the club but first i need some help.
i live in Iceland and therefore Amazon.co.uk refuses to take my money.
i had planned to buy two 14cm intake fans, a 12cm for my cpu cooler, a 12cm in the back and a 8cm fan.

is there any place other than ebay and amazon where i can buy some noctuas (high price is ok since buying a 14cm corsair AF locally costs 34 US dollars)


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gangleri*
> 
> i would love to join the club but first i need some help.
> i live in Iceland and therefore Amazon.co.uk refuses to take my money.
> i had planned to buy two 14cm intake fans, a 12cm for my cpu cooler, a 12cm in the back and a 8cm fan.
> 
> is there any place other than ebay and amazon where i can buy some noctuas (high price is ok since buying a 14cm corsair AF locally costs 34 US dollars)


Some of the danish sites may ship to Iceland

http://www.coolerkit.dk/shop/blaesere-216s.html
http://www.komplett.dk/k/search.aspx?q=Noctua
http://www.computersalg.dk/pages/search.aspx?query=Noctua

Juste note you have to be ripped off with danish prices so it may not be worth it


----------



## doyll

Have you tried contacting Noctua support and asking them where you can buy a cooler?.. If they can't suggest where you can buy maybe they will sell you one direct.


----------



## Gangleri

thanks Shilka

coolerkit has me covered, they even ship to greenland and the Faroe Islands.

the price is steep tho and im gonna have to pay a 25% tax to get them through customs but im going for it.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gangleri*
> 
> thanks Shilka
> 
> coolerkit has me covered, they even ship to greenland and the Faroe Islands.
> 
> the price is steep tho and im gonna have to pay a 25% tax to get them through customs but im going for it.


Yes danish tax is very high

On the other hand it is the danish version of specialtech and its a very good site if something is broken they take care of it and not just ignore you


----------



## toyz72

i got my NH-U14S today


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i got my DH-U14S today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That cooler. I like it.


----------



## lagittaja

I like it as well. All these slim single tower coolers are shmexy


----------



## asimriz

Hey guys where can I get an A-14 PWM from ? Is it in stores yet ?


----------



## lagittaja

It is listed on at least in the austrian alternate and some german stores but as far as I saw all were out of stock.
On the other hand in german amazon there's this http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00COH30A4?ie=UTF8&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links

Sent from my GNote


----------



## doyll

Don't think any in stock in UK yet.


----------



## rows

I just orderd myself a NH-U14S with a second NF-A15 PWM fan. So from now on I will join the Noctua club









I come from a Scythe Mugen 2 with 1 Noiseblocker fan.


----------



## rows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i got my DH-U14S today


You mean NH-U14S??


----------



## Baghi

I'm sure he meant NH an not the DH. Probably he had "the" *D*14 in mind whilst posting it seems.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rows*
> 
> I just orderd myself a NH-U14S with a second NF-A15 PWM fan. So from now on I will join the Noctua club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I come from a Scythe Mugen 2 with 1 Noiseblocker fan.


let us know how the second fan performs. i was thinking about using two different fans myself. i use to idle at 40c.


----------



## lagittaja

Here's a finnish short test of the NH-U12S and NH-U14S by the user Teekoonääs
http://murobbs.plaza.fi/kayttajien-tuotetestit/1006625-noctua-nf-a15-nh-u12s-ja-nh-u14s.html

Loosely translated his summary
Quote:


> Noctua's new products are really powerful.
> A15 beats the P14 and the 140mm fans Phanteks makes.
> U12S and U14S are confusingly great at cooling. Smaller than their predecessors but more powerful. And this isn't even because of the new fan. These new S models are powerful with any fan. U12S and a Gentle Typhoon is a good combo.
> If you already own a Noctua cooler, then the NF-A15 is a good upgrade to replace the old fan. For D14 you might wanna upgrade the 120mm fan with NF-A15.


I would've liked to see his 920 clocked higher to see how U14S fares then against the D14 when the voltage is pumped up.
Also the U12S doesn't seem to benefit much when running P/P, although that test was done using the test setup #2 with the 860.
Btw, testikokoonpano=test setup (MB/CPU/RAM/etc)


----------



## rows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> let us know how the second fan performs. i was thinking about using two different fans myself. i use to idle at 40c.


Thanks you, I shall post my findings here.


----------



## Norse

Will be the owner of two of the NH-U12DO A3 beauties once i get my hands on the Mobo and CPU's


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rows*
> 
> Thanks you, I shall post my findings here.


we'll be looking forward to it


----------



## Sethris225

Agh.
I really would like to go with 3 NF-F12s for this next build but those browns just plain won't match the scheme.
Looked at Silent Wings 2, Shadow Wings, Silent R2s, and AP123s, but most of them aren't that well rad optimized, and even if they are they probably perform worse than NF-F12s...

I might have to look into some spray dye (if anyone wants to recommend me something). Another issue that remains is taking apart the NF-F12s without destroying them.
I am planning the crap out of this upcoming build, haha.

Edit: if anyone knows of any rad benchmarks for these it'd be appreciated. Sorry for lack of Noctua-ness. To be fair my preferred option IS NF-F12s painted.


----------



## emlamme

Hi all,

Take a look at my Noctua collection.

1x NH-U9B SE2 Heatsink
4x NF-B9
1x NF-B9 PWM (PSU)
1x NF-R8 (IcyDock)
1x NF-A4x10 FLX
1x NF-F12

http://s303.photobucket.com/user/EricLamme/media/20130423_140130_zps1ce7f8fd.jpg.html
_HP Z400 Workstation_

http://s303.photobucket.com/user/EricLamme/media/20130328_201447_zps4f90655a.jpg.html

I am sorry for the bad cable management, it is still on the to-do-list.


----------



## mironccr345

^ I have that same cooler.







Nice collection.


----------



## emlamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ^ I have that same cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice collection.


Thanks!


----------



## lagittaja

I have NH-U9B as well. Well I _had_ it but put it in my friends mATX build since I didn't need it at the time. Great little cooler! Technically I still have it since he didn't buy it from me, I'll reclaim it when/if he decides to get a bigger case and bigger cooler.


----------



## mironccr345

^^Nice of you to let him rock it for a while. Did you get the 90* bracket?


----------



## lagittaja

Yeah I do have it, right now my NH-U12P is in my HTPC and the A90 kit is in use of course. Friends rig is socket 1155, i3-2100/8gb/HD7850 etcetera so he of course didn't need it.

P.S. NM-i115x mounting kit arrived today.
Nicely packaged eh

Intel DH77EB arrived as well.

Installed the CPU, Kingston 1.35v 1600/CL9 ram and the NM-i115x.

Colors aren't exactly matched but boy do those heatspreaders have beautiful color or what








And also, good job Noctua at making the Secufirm even better! I like this newest 115x only version a lot.

But anyway, I'll be installing these HTPC upgrade parts tomorrow. Can't today since the HTPC of course is in use until like midnight and prefer not to start replacing parts and installing Windows in the middle of the night









E: damn, those didn't resize automagically..


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Yeah I do have it, right now my NH-U12P is in my HTPC and the A90 kit is in use of course. Friends rig is socket 1155, i3-2100/8gb/HD7850 etcetera so he of course didn't need it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. NM-i115x mounting kit arrived today.
> Nicely packaged eh
> 
> Intel DH77EB arrived as well.
> 
> Installed the CPU, Kingston 1.35v 1600/CL9 ram and the NM-i115x.
> 
> Colors aren't exactly matched but boy do those heatspreaders have beautiful color or what
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also, good job Noctua at making the Secufirm even better! I like this newest 115x only version a lot.
> 
> But anyway, I'll be installing these HTPC upgrade parts tomorrow. Can't today since the HTPC of course is in use until like midnight and prefer not to start replacing parts and installing Windows in the middle of the night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E: damn, those didn't resize automagically..


Noctua is great about packaging. They gave me a sheet of stickers other goodies just for getting their Free 90* mounting bracket. Nice upgrades, enjoy the new toys.


----------



## YounGMessiah

I wish they used the 2011 NH-D14 packaging for the others! That was a sweet box! lol and yes I just have this sitting here....


----------



## Nous

Found a new review for Noctua NH-U14S

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/noctua_nh_u14s_review,1.html

I am so tempted to replace my hyper 212 plus with this.


----------



## Nous

Another review on Noctua NH-U14S

http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5434/noctua-nh-u14s-cpu-cooler-review/index8.html

The result from this one looks a lot better.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nous*
> 
> Found a new review for Noctua NH-U14S
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/noctua_nh_u14s_review,1.html
> 
> I am so tempted to replace my hyper 212 plus with this.


it's a lot bigger in person, i think it weights like 1.7lb. i had to order the i3 mounting kit for my motherboard. you got to love noctua's website. they supply all the info you need and free mounting kits to go with it









i'm still waiting on another member to post his results with the second fan. hoping to put mine to the test this weekend.


----------



## ozzy1925

anybody know where can i find nf a 14 pwm ?


----------



## lagittaja

http://www.overclock.net/t/1016941/the-official-noctua-club/960_20#post_19959020

At least from there.


----------



## Masta Squidge

Its so big xD


----------



## Norse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masta Squidge*
> 
> Its so big xD


Thats what she said!

Also damn that looks VERY close to your gfx you might want to put some Electrical tape on the heatsink so its metal cannot touch the gfx under any circumstances


----------



## Masta Squidge

There is more than enough room. And keep in mind I have a back plate.


----------



## doyll

Don't think it's that close but if it is a piece of thin cardboard or similar is good.


----------



## Masta Squidge

Even if it touches, the back plate isolates it anyways


----------



## doyll

was so busy looking to see how close it was didn't even notice the backing plate


----------



## Masta Squidge

Its so purdy too. Wish I had the scratch to buy a set of 5 noctua fans, so I can shut off all the light when I wish.


----------



## Baghi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nous*
> 
> Found a new review for Noctua NH-U14S
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/noctua_nh_u14s_review,1.html
> 
> I am so tempted to replace my hyper 212 plus with this.


Damn! If I upgrade to Haswell, this cooler will be on top of my priority list.







I wish it was not rounded like my current NH-L12.


----------



## lagittaja

Well here's my HTPC with it's new parts, been up and running now since friday. Got everything sorted properly


----------



## mironccr345

My motherboard returned from RMA. Gave me a chance to check out the cpu cooler with my Noc fan. Should get a NH-C12P??


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> My motherboard returned from RMA. Gave me a chance to check out the cpu cooler with my Noc fan. Should get a NH-C12P??


the c12p cooler works really well,but its pretty much the same design as the cooler your using. you could always replace the fan with the noctua 140 flx fan,or even one of there newer 140 fans that have a pwn connector.

if you really want to replace the cooler.....i would look at the u12s or u14s. there pretty much around the same price and come with the newer pwn fans. the u12s will do a much better job and will not get in the way of your ram.


----------



## Norse

Are Noctua's Good? i think so yes









20c on a 16 Core CPU


----------



## toyz72

Heck Yeah


----------



## Masta Squidge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> My motherboard returned from RMA. Gave me a chance to check out the cpu cooler with my Noc fan. Should get a NH-C12P??


Dose red gskill heatspreaders....

I have identical ones on my old rig, except blue.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> the c12p cooler works really well,but its pretty much the same design as the cooler your using. you could always replace the fan with the noctua 140 flx fan,or even one of there newer 140 fans that have a pwn connector.
> if you really want to replace the cooler.....i would look at the u12s or u14s. there pretty much around the same price and come with the newer pwn fans. the u12s will do a much better job and will not get in the way of your ram.


Thinking I'll get the u14. Maybe get a used one on Amazon? I really dont need a massive cooler because it's my server/bedroom htpc. But I have that itch to buy a new cpu cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masta Squidge*
> 
> Dose red gskill heatspreaders....
> I have identical ones on my old rig, except blue.


They are DDR2 4GB (2x4). Still running strong since 2009.


----------



## toyz72

great chioce! i wasn't sure if you where worried about height or temp's.

make sure you check noctua's website to make sure it will fit. i had to get the i3 mounting kit for my setup. let us know how you make out


----------



## Lisjak

This is a temperature comparison of a stock intel cooler vs. the noctua nh-c14. But in the intel cooler's defence the thermal paste was bone dry.



Stock idle vs noctua idle
 

Stock under load vs noctua under load


----------



## WebsterXC

Where did you get that desktop background? Do want.


----------



## Lisjak

I think I got it from wallbase.cc but if you want I can send it to you.


----------



## WebsterXC

Yes please! If you can track it down, please PM me









Nevermind I found it. Thanks!


----------



## Wumbologist

Hi,

I recently bought the NH C14 (which is great BTW), however I've had to take off the top fan so that it could fit in my case. I'm planning to replace the stock case fans with some Noctuas although I'm unsure which would be better in this circumstance- the F12 or P12.

Here's a picture of my case to make it clearer



As you can see the side fans sit pretty much on top of the GPU and CPU so I figured the F12s would be better, is this the right choice?

Many thanks


----------



## desmopilot

Does anyone have experience with the Noctua NH-L9i on LGA775? Have inherited a Q8200 along with a nice mATX board I'm planning on building an HTPC/mini gaming rig around (Sure the Q8200 isn't an ideal HTPC CPU, but can't argue with free!). Noctua's spec sheet states 1150, 1155 and 1156 compatibility, but IIRC coolers that worked with 1156 also worked with 775.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desmopilot*
> 
> Does anyone have experience with the Noctua NH-L9i on LGA775? Have inherited a Q8200 along with a nice mATX board I'm planning on building an HTPC/mini gaming rig around (Sure the Q8200 isn't an ideal HTPC CPU, but can't argue with free!). Noctua's spec sheet states 1150, 1155 and 1156 compatibility, but IIRC coolers that worked with 1156 also worked with 775.


Socket 775: 72mm x 72mm
Socket 1156: 75mm x 75mm
Socket 1366: 80mm x 80mm

Socket 1150, 1155 & 1156 are same.


----------



## lagittaja

I don't think that would even be wise, even if you could use it. The NH-L9i isn't exactly that powerful cooler so keeping a 775 quad cool enough would be tough. Although you can always undervolt and or underclock.
Also desmopilot, there are some asrock motherboards that feature 775 and 1150/1155/1156 mounting holes. So that could perhaps be the source for that 'info'.


----------



## BrettJSr72

I'd love to join this Club! I currently have 3x NF-F12 PWM, 1x NF-S12A PWM, 1x NF-A15 PWM, and 1x NF-A14 PWM. Will be adding more once my new case arrives, a Cosmos II. YEAH BABY!!!


----------



## Norse

My two Noctua's cooling my dual 16 core AMD's

am waiting for PSU Extensions hence messy cables


----------



## shilka

HOLY crap Noctua has listened and they have showed a 200mm prototype fan as well as black fans




Star of the show is that new monster D14 with two A15 fans its huuuuuge


----------



## FazzoMetal

Really good news from Noctua!
However, I've bought a Noctua U14S since 3 weeks.
Some pics and results.


----------



## Silvaire

Hey guys, I have a compatibility question someone might be able to help with. I tried Noctua but they weren't confident enough to give me a green light:

I'm interested in the 14S and just want to know if it'll work with my config:

Asus P8P67 Pro
g.Skill Ripjaws X with height of 44m populating ALL FOUR SLOTS

I am trying to figure out if the 14S will block the first RAM slot. It is hard for me to get in there to measure that space because this is a planned upgrade. For reference, I am currently using a 212+ and it fits fine.

I also understand I might need another bracket for this motherboard, but that if I contact Noctua they will supply it.

Thanks.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvaire*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a compatibility question someone might be able to help with. I tried Noctua but they weren't confident enough to give me a green light:
> 
> I'm interested in the 14S and just want to know if it'll work with my config:
> 
> Asus P8P67 Pro
> g.Skill Ripjaws X with height of 44m populating ALL FOUR SLOTS
> 
> I am trying to figure out if the 14S will block the first RAM slot. It is hard for me to get in there to measure that space because this is a planned upgrade. For reference, I am currently using a 212+ and it fits fine.
> 
> I also understand I might need another bracket for this motherboard, but that if I contact Noctua they will supply it.
> 
> Thanks.


Noctua NH-U14S is 52mm so 26mm from center of cpu to edge of cooler without fan; 52mm from center of cooler to front of fan. I suggest you measure your motherboard and see what your clearances are.


----------



## FazzoMetal

Another pic


----------



## ozzy1925

i received 2 of my noctuas today.


----------



## YounGMessiah

Hey all,

I have a Storm Stryker and plan on upgrading my case fans, currently I have a top 200mm, 2 120mms and a 140mm.

To start off I want to replace the top 200mm with 2 120mms and replace the 2 120mms with better ones.

I am wondering should I get the P12s or F12s?


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YounGMessiah*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I have a Storm Stryker and plan on upgrading my case fans, currently I have a top 200mm, 2 120mms and a 140mm.
> 
> To start off I want to replace the top 200mm with 2 120mms and replace the 2 120mms with better ones.
> 
> I am wondering should I get the P12s or F12s?


Neither. Get S12A's


----------



## YounGMessiah

Those are pretty sexy and a few bucks cheaper than the two I listed.

Thank you


----------



## YounGMessiah

Any other suggestions? I am ordering on Friday


----------



## animal0307

Ok so after way too long I finally updated the club list. I'm pretty sure I've missed at least one person (its 11pm give me a break) so if you would take a look at the list and please let me know if I have missed you or missed you fan/cooler


----------



## Wumbologist

Me pls


----------



## CM Aztec

my friends fathers build


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Aztec*
> 
> my friends fathers build


Oh my goodness... being a Noctua fanboy, my jaw just dropped. Just had a huge nerdgasm lol.

Very well done with the sleeving and paint


----------



## Sazexa

Does anyone have a NH-L9i?

I'm considering getting it for my i5 4670S 65-watt processor. I can't seem to dig up much information on the cooler.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Does anyone have a NH-L9i?
> 
> I'm considering getting it for my i5 4670S 65-watt processor. I can't seem to dig up much information on the cooler.


I do. I just got it last Friday. Great cooler for a SFF build. The packaging was top notch, as it usually is when it comes to Noctua. I've seen some vids that Noctua is coming out with a thicker version of the NH-L9i. But I don't know about a release date. Now for some pics.







(sorry for the crappy phone pics)










Edit: Here are some pics of the Prototype. (thicker heatsink)

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=news_list&news_id=90


----------



## Sazexa

Thanks!

I'm glad to hear some has had a good experience with it. My cooler-clearance is 64mm high, so a taller heat sink might not exactly fit right. I believe Noctua has another 92mm fan that is 25mm thick instead of 10 like on the NH-L9i. I think I'm going to buy the cooler and thicker fan. I won't be overclocking, but I'd like to try and keep the temps relatively low and fan speed/noise level down. I'll probably be purchasing this cooler within the next week or so.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I'm glad to hear some has had a good experience with it. My cooler-clearance is 64mm high, so a taller heat sink might not exactly fit right. I believe Noctua has another 92mm fan that is 25mm thick instead of 10 like on the NH-L9i. I think I'm going to buy the cooler and thicker fan. I won't be overclocking, but I'd like to try and keep the temps relatively low and fan speed/noise level down. I'll probably be purchasing this cooler within the next week or so.


Sorry to put the Thermalright name on Noctua forum but their AXP-100 is a very nice thin cooler. 58mm.

I've found reversing the fan so it pull from cooler gave lower temps on most all downflow cooler setups. Reasons being down flow pushes hot air into mobo, against, RAM, GPU, etc., hot air comes back along sides of cooler and is sucked back into fan. Pulling air out of cooler brings cool air in over mobo and hot air can be pulled aw.ay from cool by exhaust fans easier.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1347211/thermalright-axp-100-showed-up-today/0_20


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*


At 7:45 the Noctua man says something interesting:

Quote:


> _... *most of the fan vibrations* (unless the fan is broken) *comes from the blades passing over the struts* ..._


The struts are an (aerodynamically) neglected part in many PC fans: Square-section, often oversized and restrictive.

Admittedly there is very little depth to play with the struts, but when allowing for some extra depth (at the expense of prop blade depth, unfortunately) like in the NF-F12, strut aerodynamics can be much improved:



















Nice cambered wing profile at a particular angle of attack, vortex notches and even a bit of washout







.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I'm glad to hear some has had a good experience with it. My cooler-clearance is 64mm high, so a taller heat sink might not exactly fit right. I believe Noctua has another 92mm fan that is 25mm thick instead of 10 like on the NH-L9i. I think I'm going to buy the cooler and thicker fan. I won't be overclocking, but I'd like to try and keep the temps relatively low and fan speed/noise level down. I'll probably be purchasing this cooler within the next week or so.


No problem. I have two NF-B9 Fan's and they are nice 92mm fans. They would work good on that heatsink. Post those pics when you get it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry to put the Thermalright name on Noctua forum but their AXP-100 is a very nice thin cooler. 58mm.
> I've found reversing the fan so it pull from cooler gave lower temps on most all downflow cooler setups. Reasons being down flow pushes hot air into mobo, against, RAM, GPU, etc., hot air comes back along sides of cooler and is sucked back into fan. Pulling air out of cooler brings cool air in over mobo and hot air can be pulled aw.ay from cool by exhaust fans easier.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1347211/thermalright-axp-100-showed-up-today/0_20


That's a nice little cooler. Really beefy looking.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry to put the Thermalright name on Noctua forum but their AXP-100 is a very nice thin cooler. 58mm.
> 
> I've found reversing the fan so it pull from cooler gave lower temps on most all downflow cooler setups. Reasons being down flow pushes hot air into mobo, against, RAM, GPU, etc., hot air comes back along sides of cooler and is sucked back into fan. Pulling air out of cooler brings cool air in over mobo and hot air can be pulled aw.ay from cool by exhaust fans easier.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1347211/thermalright-axp-100-showed-up-today/0_20


Oh wow. That looks really beefy. And it will allow me to use regular size fans. I actually found a picture on the product page's site of my exact case with the cooler in it. It makes me laugh a bit.


Maybe I'll get that cooler instead and throw a Noctua fan on it. ;]

EDIT: I realize now (after purchasing the Thermalright AXP-100) that it's height clearance is 58 CM. It uses a 14mm thick 120mm fan, so if I were to put my NF-P12 on there, it would be too-tall for my 64mm height clearance. Guess I won't be using my spare Noctua fans! But, from my understanding, this is an extremely quiet fan on the Thermalright anyways, and cools very well. So thanks for the suggestions on the cooler.

I'll probably try to sell these fans on eBay or something. I kept them from my old NH-D14, but used different fans on it so I never used these. Maybe I'll keep them and try to find a use for them. ;]


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Aztec*
> 
> my friends fathers build


Absolutely freaking beautiful. I've never seen Noctuas better utilized.

Like, with a bit more work I would say that deserves to be on Million dollar PC.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Oh wow. That looks really beefy. And it will allow me to use regular size fans. I actually found a picture on the product page's site of my exact case with the cooler in it. It makes me laugh a bit.
> 
> 
> Maybe I'll get that cooler instead and throw a Noctua fan on it. ;]
> 
> EDIT: I realize now (after purchasing the Thermalright AXP-100) that it's height clearance is 58 CM. It uses a 14mm thick 120mm fan, so if I were to put my NF-P12 on there, it would be too-tall for my 64mm height clearance. Guess I won't be using my spare Noctua fans! But, from my understanding, this is an extremely quiet fan on the Thermalright anyways, and cools very well. So thanks for the suggestions on the cooler.
> 
> I'll probably try to sell these fans on eBay or something. I kept them from my old NH-D14, but used different fans on it so I never used these. Maybe I'll keep them and try to find a use for them. ;]


TY-100 is a very nice 100mm fan. And if you keep it at 1500rpm the temps are about 11c hotter than at 2300rpm.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> At 7:45 the Noctua man says something interesting:
> The struts are an (aerodynamically) neglected part in many PC fans: Square-section, often oversized and restrictive.
> 
> Admittedly there is very little depth to play with the struts, but when allowing for some extra depth (at the expense of prop blade depth, unfortunately) like in the NF-F12, strut aerodynamics can be much improved:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice cambered wing profile at a particular angle of attack, vortex notches and even a bit of washout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I noticed he mentioned the new NH-D14 replacement sacrifices cooling for ram compatibility. Also a bit surprised by the relatively low height of it too. I still hope it performs better so I can upgrade.

I seriously hate manufacturers making ridiculously high ram.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> TY-100 is a very nice 100mm fan. And if you keep it at 1500rpm the temps are about 11c hotter than at 2300rpm.


Well, I'm using a 65-watt i5, so it shouldn't be too hot anyways. I'd sacrifice far less noise for 11C, especially because I'm not over clocking. The fan included is a 100mm, 14mm thick fan. But it fan fit/mount 120mm's on it. So I might try to find a 15mm thick 120mm fan. I'd be able to fit a 19-20mm thick fan at most. If only my beloved Noctua made thinner 120's<|3


----------



## doyll

I think you will be happy with the TY-100 on the AXP-100. Mine cools 130w i7 920 @ 69-70-70-69c 1500rpm and 62-62-63-61c 2450rpm; ambient 22c with the TY-100 pull air out of AXP-100.. so it set to run 1500rpm @ 70c.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think you will be happy with the TY-100 on the AXP-100. Mine cools 130w i7 920 @ 69-70-70-69c 1500rpm and 62-62-63-61c 2450rpm; ambient 22c with the TY-100 pull air out of AXP-100.. so it set to run 1500rpm @ 70c.


That's not bad at all. Again, thanks for introducing me to it!


----------



## zergling

Me = Unintentional Noctua Fanboy LOL!

1x NH-D14
2x Noctua NF-A14 FLX
2x Noctua NF-A15 PWM


----------



## shilka

Is there anyone here that has heard anything new about the Noctua 200mm fans


----------



## CM Aztec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Absolutely freaking beautiful. I've never seen Noctuas better utilized.
> 
> Like, with a bit more work I would say that deserves to be on Million dollar PC.


im trying to learn sleeving from my friends father to make a similar build, if i even get to do it i will post here


----------



## nagle3092

Updated my info, really enjoying the U12S.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zergling*
> 
> Me = Unintentional Noctua Fanboy LOL!
> 
> 1x NH-D14
> 2x Noctua NF-A14 FLX
> 2x Noctua NF-A15 PWM
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


like it!


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zergling*
> 
> Me = Unintentional Noctua Fanboy LOL!
> 
> 1x NH-D14
> 2x Noctua NF-A14 FLX
> 2x Noctua NF-A15 PWM
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build. Fractal, Noctua, BeQuiet!, basically the three best computer hardware brands followed by Silverstone and Corsair.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Aztec*
> 
> im trying to learn sleeving from my friends father to make a similar build, if i even get to do it i will post here


Will follow the log if it happens! If you don't make a log post everything here.
Sleeving is so annoying, honestly. It's so hard to make sure the sleeve is melted over the pin when you're doing shrinkless and it's under the temp shrink.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Updated my info, really enjoying the U12S.


Really jealous. I want one. I would get the U14S but that blocks off the first PCIe slot on most motherboards and the U12S performs just as well.

Waiting for Noctua's new fans (the black industrial ones are the ones I'm eyeing, IIRC).


----------



## mlibby1980

does anyone know if there are any Noctua's reps on here?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mlibby1980*
> 
> does anyone know if there are any Noctua's reps on here?


Not that I know of. But you can send them an email. I recently sent them an email asking about one of the prototypes featured at Comptuex and got a reply in about an hour.


----------



## ehume

I have had the opportunity to compare the NH-L12 to the NH-D14, here.

And you can see the performance of the Noctua A series of fans here.


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> I have had the opportunity to compare the NH-L12 to the NH-D14, here.
> 
> And you can see the performance of the Noctua A series of fans here.


Awesome, some nice/helpful info there.


----------



## nagle3092

Pretty happy with the U12S at the moment, after delidding my 4770K its handling the heat pretty well.


----------



## Lukas026

hey there

I need your help guys. I own FD Define R4 and I bought some Noctua NF-A 14 FLX. Case has fan controller for 3 fans and can be set to 3 speed settings by voltage: 12v / 7V and 5v. I tried them all and when I set 5V, fans wont start at all becouse minimum voltage to start the fan is at like 6.5V. Now to my question:

Can I plug the fan WITH U.L.N.A. adapter to the fan controller from the case and than set the fan controller to run at 7V ?

Understand this. I somewhere read that the adapter make the same thing (reduces from 12v to 7V) so I am not sure what comes from it and I dont want to damage my fans









thanks ahead


----------



## animal0307

Try it and see. Worst case scenario the voltage is too low also.


----------



## JKin08

Im looking for good air flow fans for my case. Since overclocking my cpu and gpu its caused quite the increase of heat on the inside...Im looking at getting two NF-S12A FLX 120mm fans. Are these the ideal Noctuas for case airflow?


----------



## xNovax

Add me to the list, I got a NH-D14. It is amazing, I got 5 ghz on air with it this past weekend.


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukas026*
> 
> ... Can I plug the fan WITH U.L.N.A. adapter to the fan controller from the case and than set the fan controller to run at 7V ? ...


Check the LNAs resistance with a multimeter (both the NA-RC10 and NA-RC11), post it here, and I'll tell you the resultant voltage.


----------



## Lukas026

will do when I have the chance. dont have mm at home atm


----------



## TELVM

Just in case: For the LNAs that come with the A14 FLX you'll need to poke at the central pin of the three, both ends.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKin08*
> 
> Im looking for good air flow fans for my case. Since overclocking my cpu and gpu its caused quite the increase of heat on the inside...Im looking at getting two NF-S12A FLX 120mm fans. Are these the ideal Noctuas for case airflow?


Yes, best case fans, but don't work as well in front of the case as there are usually restrictive grills and filters.


----------



## JKin08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Yes, best case fans, but don't work as well in front of the case as there are usually restrictive grills and filters.


Do the work well as exhaust or just pushing or through? Or does it matter?


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKin08*
> 
> Do the work well as exhaust or just pushing or through? Or does it matter?


Exhaust should be fine as long as it's not pushing through anything very restrictive. I'm using a pair to cool my GPU heatsink and works well.


----------



## JKin08

Hey all, what are your thoughts on the NF-A14 FLX? As a case fan should I go with those or the NF-S12A FLX? (Yes I realize one is 140mm and the other is 120mm-my case can fit either)


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKin08*
> 
> Hey all, what are your thoughts on the NF-A14 FLX? As a case fan should I go with those or the NF-S12A FLX? (Yes I realize one is 140mm and the other is 120mm-my case can fit either)


I have one and despite its not really meant as an airflow fan i still use it as my exhaust fan


----------



## JKin08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I have one and despite its not really meant as an airflow fan i still use it as my exhaust fan


How are your temps? Im looking for the one that would have the largest amount of airflow. One would be used for exhaust and the other would be off of my HDD bays.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKin08*
> 
> How are your temps? Im looking for the one that would have the largest amount of airflow. One would be used for exhaust and the other would be off of my HDD bays.


What do you mean temps like in case temps or CPU temps?


----------



## JKin08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> What do you mean temps like in case temps or CPU temps?


Yes, case, you said you had one as an exhaust. Is that the only one you're using?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKin08*
> 
> Yes, case, you said you had one as an exhaust. Is that the only one you're using?


Yes i have a NF-A14 FLX as exhaust and right now my HAF X case is 32-33c with the room temp being around 18-20c i think?

This is with every fan in the case at full blast as its so damm hot today

And i have 4 other fans as well but not Noctua fans


----------



## JKin08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Yes i have a NF-A14 FLX as exhaust and right now my HAF X case is 32-33c with the room temp being around 18-20c i think?
> 
> This is with every fan in the case at full blast as its so damm hot today
> 
> And i have 4 other fans as well but not Noctua fans


Is it worth replacing my stock exhaust? I have the Corsair 500r so its just the stock-low-end version of the sp120's. Like I said before I'd like one as exhaust and one on the HDD bays, is it really going to change temps alot? My idle case temp is about 25 C and underload is 29 C-30C


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKin08*
> 
> Is it worth replacing my stock exhaust? I have the Corsair 500r so its just the stock-low-end version of the sp120's. Like I said before I'd like one as exhaust and one on the HDD bays, is it really going to change temps alot? My idle case temp is about 25 C and underload is 29 C-30C


For the front i would get a NF-A14 FLX yes for the back i would get a air flow 120mm or 140mm fan instead

Something like the older NF-P14 could be an option

I got the NF-A14 FLX as the NF-P14 was out of stock


----------



## JKin08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> For the front i would get a NF-A14 FLX yes for the back i would get a air flow 120mm or 140mm fan instead
> 
> Something like the older NF-P14 could be an option
> 
> I got the NF-A14 FLX as the NF-P14 was out of stock


I checked and newegg has the NF-P14's in stock, should I just get two of those or do as you said with one and one


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKin08*
> 
> I checked and newegg has the NF-P14's in stock, should I just get two of those or do as you said with one and one


I think a NF-A14 in the front to push air in and a NF-P14 to blow air out would be the best option


----------



## JKin08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I think a NF-A14 in the front to push air in and a NF-P14 to blow air out would be the best option


Ok sweet! To Newegg I go!


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKin08*
> 
> Ok sweet! To Newegg I go!


Don't even bother getting a rear exhaust fan. Just have no fan. That rear fan gives you 1C better temps and actually increases your temps in some situations. Many times, that rear is hindering airflow if you have enough intake fans.

Gut the grills and remove the PCI covers. Case temps will go down with that as the hotter air would automatically escape anyway if you give it exits.


----------



## JKin08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Don't even bother getting a rear exhaust fan. Just have no fan. That rear fan gives you 1C better temps and actually increases your temps in some situations. Many times, that rear is hindering airflow if you have enough intake fans.
> 
> Gut the grills and remove the PCI covers. Case temps will go down with that as the hotter air would automatically escape anyway if you give it exits.


Will do!


----------



## majorpaule

Here is my Noctua setup. I love the CM Cosmos 1000. But it has poor cable management and unefficient airflow.
I installed 5 Noctua F12 PWM in the case to improve the airflow for my HD7970 Antec 620 Mod.

Temps @ idle:

CPU: 28C
GPU: 36C

Temps @ full load:

CPU: 50C
GPU: 55C

And now its even quiet while gaming












After I came back from the gym i had some new results for the idle temps. All Fans are running @40%


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majorpaule*
> 
> Here is my Noctua setup. I love the CM Cosmos 1000. But it has poor cable management and unefficient airflow.
> I installed 5 Noctua F12 PWM in the case to improve the airflow for my HD7970 Antec 620 Mod.
> 
> Temps @ idle:
> 
> CPU: 28C
> GPU: 36C
> 
> Temps @ full load:
> 
> CPU: 50C
> GPU: 55C
> 
> And now its even quiet while gaming


Wow those are great temps. I wonder how much lower they'd be if you had good cable management!

Great job.


----------



## doyll

It might not be fancy and pretty but my guess is it's very functional. The air channel to and from fans has little obstruction.


----------



## majorpaule

I am thinking about buying a Corsair case. The Air 540 seems to be very interesting for airflow.


----------



## Novver

For the best possible cooling performance, NH-D14 or NH-U12P SE2? Money is no problem right now







And they are almost the same price here in Hungary.

It would go into a CM Storm Stryker case onto a MSI 990FXA-GD80 motherboard with a Phenom II X6 1100T BE , with 16 GB Corsair Vengeance Low Profile RAM's. As by the measurements, in theory it would fit nicely.

Any advice with this?

Also, i am retiring my Zalman CNPS10X Extreme









Any suggestion is much appreciated! Cheers!


----------



## Sriracha

NH-U12P SE2.


----------



## Emu105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sriracha*
> 
> 
> 
> NH-U12P SE2.


I love how those damn Nvidia cards look, so damn sexy .... but so expensive got my 7970 for 300 but damn i wish they had some sexy cards!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Novver*
> 
> For the best possible cooling performance, NH-D14 or NH-U12P SE2? Money is no problem right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And they are almost the same price here in Hungary.
> 
> It would go into a CM Storm Stryker case onto a MSI 990FXA-GD80 motherboard with a Phenom II X6 1100T BE , with 16 GB Corsair Vengeance Low Profile RAM's. As by the measurements, in theory it would fit nicely.
> 
> Any advice with this?
> 
> Also, i am retiring my Zalman CNPS10X Extreme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestion is much appreciated! Cheers!


I know some reviews show them cooling about the same with NH-D14 better cooling than NH-U12P SE2. My experience is NH-U12P is not near as good. I have not compared the two but had NH-U12P SE2 on my i7 920 before I used Phanteks PH-TC14PE, Thermalright Macho HR-02, Silver Arrow, Ultra 120A and Silver Arrow SB-E. All are 7-10c better than NH-U12P SE2 except Ultra 120A which is 4c better. NH-D14 is in same league of coolers as TC14PE, Silver Arrow and Silver Arrow SB-E. All are within a few degrees of each other and NH-D14 is only about 2c cooler than the best. NH-U12P SE isn't even close.


----------



## dihartnell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I know some reviews show them cooling about the same with NH-D14 better cooling than NH-U12P SE2. My experience is NH-U12P is not near as good. I have not compared the two but had NH-U12P SE2 on my i7 920 before I used Phanteks PH-TC14PE, Thermalright Macho HR-02, Silver Arrow, Ultra 120A and Silver Arrow SB-E. All are 7-10c better than NH-U12P SE2 except Ultra 120A which is 4c better. NH-D14 is in same league of coolers as TC14PE, Silver Arrow and Silver Arrow SB-E. All are within a few degrees of each other and NH-D14 is only about 2c cooler than the best. NH-U12P SE isn't even close.


+1 neither the u12 or u14 is as good as the d14. Silver arrow or d14 if you want top aircooling otherwise water cooling if you want anything significantly better.


----------



## doyll

NH-U12S is new 5x 6mm pipes with a better fan and is a much better cooler than old NH-U12P with 4x 6mm pipes.
NH-U14S is only a few months old and performs very similar to NH-D14.

Yes, custom water to be significantly better. Many CLC water are not as good as air, few are as good and very little if any better but lack the dependability of air.


----------



## davcc22

add me N-12P got it for free with out the fans has a tri cool on it now


----------



## Novver

Thanks, im off to get the NH-D14 then


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Novver*
> 
> Thanks, im off to get the NH-D14 then


Please let us know what you think of it when you get it installed.


----------



## Novver

Got it, but it is too late to install it, and i have to go to work tomorrow.

However, im a bit confused, you can help me out for sure.

I only worked with 1 fan CPU coolers so far.

It is clear that one fan will connect to the mobo's CPU fan connector, but which one should i put there and where should i connect the other fan?







Should i just connect it on a SYS_FAN connector ?
I have no idea.

I just realised this... Today was not my sharpest









PS: Noctua's Manual download site is down ATM
http://www.noctua.at/pdf/manuals/noctua_nh_d14_manual_en.pdf


----------



## doyll

There should be a 'Y' splitter that you can plug both fans into the 'Y's and the other end into CPU fan socket on motherboard.

MSI motherboard may have voltage control on the CPU fan socket. If it doesn't you can use the supplied Ultra Low Noise Adapters (U.L.N.A.) to lower fan speed. There should be 2. One for each fan.


----------



## Novver

Oh, that splitter sounds handy!

And i will look into that Voltage Control and ULNA tomorrow. Thanks !


----------



## K3nshiro

Add me to the list please








Proud owner of Noctua NH-U9B SE2.
Miraculously embedded into my lian-li pc-c50b. One mm distance between heatsink and HDD cage (2nd pic), fits like a glove into my beloved gaming htpc.





Cheers,
Ken


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K3nshiro*
> 
> Add me to the list please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Proud owner of Noctua NH-U9B SE2.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Miraculously embedded into my lian-li pc-c50b. One mm distance between heatsink and HDD cage (2nd pic), fits like a glove into my beloved gaming htpc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Ken


I have the same cooler. I recently installed my NH-U9B SE2 back in my garage rig. I tried to fit it in my Lascala LC13S-E case, but it was too tall. Pics of the garage rig later tonight.


----------



## Novver

Heyo, i just installed my Noctua NH-D14 yesterday. But i had to come to work after and i am just able to reply right now.

And im kinda afraid. Is that normal that the 2 screws which are holding the CPU together with the previously installed new socket, can be screwed in uneven-ly?

So i was able to screw one screw in totally to the max, and the second, only to like half-way, because it gets really tight and hard to screw more.

I screwed in wit the method "one little screw here-one little screw there" but i failed midway there.

However, the cooler seems to be totally leveled, and not bending to either side, and the manual says "Caution: Tighten the screws until they stop."

And by my interpretation, i did exactly that. I screwed in until they stopped.

Also, in bios, the temps are a bit higher than with my Zalman CNPS10X Extreme, however they are also 27-32 C in Win7 measured with Core Temp and HWMonitor.

Should i worry that i did not mount the cooler properly?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Novver*
> 
> Heyo, i just installed my Noctua NH-D14 yesterday. But i had to come to work after and i am just able to reply right now.
> 
> And im kinda afraid. Is that normal that the 2 screws which are holding the CPU together with the previously installed new socket, can be screwed in uneven-ly?
> 
> So i was able to screw one screw in totally to the max, and the second, only to like half-way, because it gets really tight and hard to screw more.
> 
> I screwed in wit the method "one little screw here-one little screw there" but i failed midway there.
> 
> However, the cooler seems to be totally leveled, and not bending to either side, and the manual says "Caution: Tighten the screws until they stop."
> 
> And by my interpretation, i did exactly that. I screwed in until they stopped.
> 
> Also, in bios, the temps are a bit higher than with my Zalman CNPS10X Extreme, however they are also 27-32 C in Win7 measured with Core Temp and HWMonitor.
> 
> Should i worry that i did not mount the cooler properly?


Don't worry about idle temps, run P95 or any other stress test and see what your load temps are. I would go back though and make sure both screws are tightened down all the way. If not, just check again to make sure. I had trouble with the screws themselves too at first but lining them up got easier as I remove my D14 and put it back frequently.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Novver*
> 
> Heyo, i just installed my Noctua NH-D14 yesterday. But i had to come to work after and i am just able to reply right now.
> 
> And im kinda afraid. Is that normal that the 2 screws which are holding the CPU together with the previously installed new socket, can be screwed in uneven-ly?
> 
> So i was able to screw one screw in totally to the max, and the second, only to like half-way, because it gets really tight and hard to screw more.
> 
> I screwed in wit the method "one little screw here-one little screw there" but i failed midway there.
> 
> However, the cooler seems to be totally leveled, and not bending to either side, and the manual says "Caution: Tighten the screws until they stop."
> 
> And by my interpretation, i did exactly that. I screwed in until they stopped.
> 
> Also, in bios, the temps are a bit higher than with my Zalman CNPS10X Extreme, however they are also 27-32 C in Win7 measured with Core Temp and HWMonitor.
> 
> Should i worry that i did not mount the cooler properly?


Make sure you put very little paste. About half the size of a BB would be enough.


----------



## Novver

Thanks for both replies. I checked again, the paste is about half a pea and i am unable to screw in more.
I have no idea why, but it feels very stable and tight. I guess this is just how far i can screw it in.

Thanks !


----------



## NKrader

2x NF-A14 FLX
1x NF-S12A FLX
3x NF-B9
4x NF-A6x25 FLX


----------



## amd655

Hi guys, am i allowed in with my Noctua fans on my GTX 480?

They are Noctua NF-B9 PWM 92mm fans


----------



## ZeVo

I think you can.









That looks awesome though. What temps you seeing with it on load?


----------



## amd655

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I think you can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks awesome though. What temps you seeing with it on load?


75c max when gaming under heavy load, this is with a 150mhz+OC and a substantial voltage increase









Very quiet too, almost inaudible.


----------



## plumberFranc

Hello

Today I wanted to join the Noctua Club, so throw some of my photos


----------



## dihartnell

Nice!! That would look even better if those Black Noctua fans ever materialise.


----------



## Norse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dihartnell*
> 
> Nice!! That would look even better if those Black Noctua fans ever materialise.


Spray em?


----------



## toyz72

plumberFranc....great looking setup!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plumberFranc*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Today I wanted to join the Noctua Club, so throw some of my photos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like them just the way they are. Clean looking build.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plumberFranc*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Today I wanted to join the Noctua Club, so throw some of my photos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your airflow can be greatly improved. Like the top fan in the forward position should be flipped around as an intake instead. Your GPU _might_ run cooler if your side fans were exhaust. That bottom fan should definitely be an intake.


----------



## plumberFranc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> plumberFranc....great looking setup!


thanks


----------



## K3nshiro

Holy Mackerel plumberFranc!
I've never seen so many Noctuas in a build...awesome !

Hopefully it's as silent as its latin name suggests










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## plumberFranc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K3nshiro*
> 
> Holy Mackerel plumberFranc!
> I've never seen so many Noctuas in a build...awesome !
> 
> Hopefully it's as silent as its latin name suggests
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


is very quiet
serious


----------



## YounGMessiah

Ordering 4 S12As  to replace 2 of my 120s and my 1 200


----------



## Sethris225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Your airflow can be greatly improved. Like the top fan in the forward position should be flipped around as an intake instead. Your GPU _might_ run cooler if your side fans were exhaust. That bottom fan should definitely be an intake.


Both the bottoms fans *are* intakes... The side fans I dunno (if you have a point), only way to determine what setup is better is to test it, and I have no idea what fan you're talking about in the second sentence. If you mean the one facing the camera, it is an intake.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Both the bottoms fans *are* intakes... The side fans I dunno (if you have a point), only way to determine what setup is better is to test it, and I have no idea what fan you're talking about in the second sentence. If you mean the one facing the camera, it is an intake.


I stand corrected (took too quick of a glance). But as of the side fans, they do need to be tested which is why I stressed the "maybe" part. The top-front can is the fan directly above the CPU cooler in the forward position. That definitely needs to be an intake as it's stealing air away from the CPU cooler.


----------



## VisceralSound

Just placed my order for 2 NF-F12's and 2 NF-P14's for my Corsair 350D, Amazon Prime gives a decent price about the price of the Corsair AF and SP fans so I opted for the Noctuas!


----------



## YounGMessiah

A bit confused here, im thinking of getting the FLX version of the S12As. Insights anyone?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YounGMessiah*
> 
> A bit confused here, im thinking of getting the FLX version of the S12As. Insights anyone?


I did a review here. The S12A's are marvelous fans, but they have limited static pressure. For my own rig, I used two NF-P12's for my front fans rather than NF-S12A's because they are pulling air through filters.

Both NF-P12's and NF-S12A's come as PWM as well as FLX. In my rig, the mid-case fan is an NF-S12A PWM -- it is not pulling through a filter, and what I want there is pure CFM. It blows on my chipset, and the PWM signal at that header responds to chipset temps.

My top intake is a TY-140, which is a PWM fan. It is on the same signal as my NF-A15 HSF, using the included Noctua Y-cable. That fan revs up when the load on the CPU increases, and more cooling is needed. It's fun to hear the system rev up.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I did a review here. The S12A's are marvelous fans, but they have limited static pressure. For my own rig, I used two NF-P12's for my front fans rather than NF-S12A's because they are pulling air through filters.
> 
> Both NF-P12's and NF-S12A's come as PWM as well as FLX. In my rig, the mid-case fan is an NF-S12A PWM -- it is not pulling through a filter, and what I want there is pure CFM. It blows on my chipset, and the PWM signal at that header responds to chipset temps.
> 
> My top intake is a TY-140, which is a PWM fan. It is on the same signal as my NF-A15 HSF, using the included Noctua Y-cable. That fan revs up when the load on the CPU increases, and more cooling is needed. It's fun to hear the system rev up.


Good Review.


----------



## YounGMessiah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> I did a review here. The S12A's are marvelous fans, but they have limited static pressure. For my own rig, I used two NF-P12's for my front fans rather than NF-S12A's because they are pulling air through filters.
> 
> Both NF-P12's and NF-S12A's come as PWM as well as FLX. In my rig, the mid-case fan is an NF-S12A PWM -- it is not pulling through a filter, and what I want there is pure CFM. It blows on my chipset, and the PWM signal at that header responds to chipset temps.
> 
> My top intake is a TY-140, which is a PWM fan. It is on the same signal as my NF-A15 HSF, using the included Noctua Y-cable. That fan revs up when the load on the CPU increases, and more cooling is needed. It's fun to hear the system rev up.


Wow cool thanks here is my setup, but do know that my EVGA GTX 680 with the custom cooling will be removed.. I ordered an EVGA GTX 780  to replace it and imma leave their shroud and what not on there..

My question is what is your suggestion on how to setup my fans? I want to replace the top 200 with 2 120s and the 2 120s, replace with better ones.. Im going to most likely put my other HDD cage up, so I can have the fan you see on the bottom on the cage


----------



## YounGMessiah

Well I decided im going to order 4 P12s for now and see how that goes


----------



## ehume

You have a high-ceiling case. In such cases prior users have found that either you should leave it as an exhaust, or set two fans on top, both to intake. Of course, if you do that you must remove the exhaust fan and exhaust grill, leaving air to get out through the large opening left when the grill is gone.

I'd leave it as it is, or remove the back grill, etc.


----------



## NKrader

Say goodbye to 2u server fan noise


----------



## jlhawn

my fantastic Noctuas.
the cpu cooler is the Noctua NH-C12P SE14 140mm SSO


----------



## mironccr345

^ Noc's every where.


----------



## toyz72

i'm waiting on 5 of these to arrive tuesday







i picked up fractal design midi r2 off newegg for $69. they should be a nice compliment for my u14s cooler. i'll get some pic's up with them installed.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608034


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i'm waiting on 5 of these to arrive tuesday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i picked up fractal design midi r2 off newegg for $69. they should be a nice compliment for my u14s cooler. i'll get some pic's up with them installed.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608034


your gunna like em.

have fun.


----------



## NKrader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> your gunna like em.
> 
> have fun.


i do agree, my two are awesome and super silent even with my ear 6 inches away, just moves ton of air


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i'm waiting on 5 of these to arrive tuesday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i picked up fractal design midi r2 off newegg for $69. they should be a nice compliment for my u14s cooler. i'll get some pic's up with them installed.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608034


Just for completeness sake: the NF-A14 is available PWM as well.


----------



## fredgagne79

Just got My two NF-A14 PWM and installed them yesterday as front intake for my Corsair Obsidian 350d; it made a huge difference on the airflow!










I also replace the noisy Corsair H100i fan with two NF-P12, what a difference it made on the sound level!

Noctua fan are great; the only fan I now got that ain't a noctua is the exaust fan, but I might replace it as well

Here's some pics of my system with the noctua fans:







(My video card is installed at the bottom of the case beacue i've juste order my second GTX 600 for SLI setup)


----------



## toyz72

better order that back fan and make it complete


----------



## CHRISOD

Hey guys, i'm switching over to a Corsair Air 540 and trying to make it as quiet as possible but also move some air too. Was gonna use two NF-F12's for my h100i. Probably a NF-A14 for exhaust. Then 3 120's at the front but not sure whether to go for three NF-S12B's or three NF-P12's. Which ones do you think would be the better choice ? Will be using with a fan controller if that helps at all.


----------



## doyll

Check out SupahSpankeh's 540. Just use Noctua PWM fans.








http://www.overclock.net/t/1411425/help-me-cool-my-corsair-540/20_20#post_20570297


----------



## Norse

Might be purchasing two more NH-U12DO A3 if i get this other ASUS KGPE-D16







another dual CPU Opteron build woooooooo


----------



## YounGMessiah

Got my 4 P12s


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Just for completeness sake: the NF-A14 is available PWM as well.


i decided to go with the higher rpm due to the thick fan filters in the midi r2. hope i didn't make a mistake on that? i'll also be hooking these to my adjust 108 fan controller.

http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=80


----------



## animal0307

Love all the Noc love. I'll try to remember to update the club list tonight


----------



## rickyman0319

what does F-12 good for?

is it good for Rad like mcr or rx series rad?


----------



## animal0307

It is designed for rads


----------



## rickyman0319

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> It is designed for rads


what kind of rad? is it for H80,H100 or mcr series or for rx series rad. or for all of the above.


----------



## animal0307

I'm pretty sure its for all rads though they perform differently on deffernt rads.


----------



## rickyman0319

do u advise that it can do P/P on any rad? cause I heard that when F-12 do P/P , pull fan has some noise.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Just for completeness sake: the NF-A14 is available PWM as well.
> 
> 
> 
> i decided to go with the higher rpm due to the thick fan filters in the midi r2. hope i didn't make a mistake on that? i'll also be hooking these to my adjust 108 fan controller.
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=80
Click to expand...

A14's are designed to have good static pressure. See my review. They look like TY-140's.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> A14's are designed to have good static pressure. See my review. They look like TY-140's.


after reading your review, i feel very good about my purchase. i've always picked noctua over other brands just because of there silence and build quality.

in the past,it seemed like you had to sacrifice cfm for silence. it seems like noctua's new fans bring silence with good cfm to boot. with all that said, i'm pretty dang excited to get my fan's.

thanks for posting your review for me


----------



## YounGMessiah

Finally got all my fans put in on how I like  I love it

Booted up and these fans are epic lol my CM default fans are louder than those Noctua.


----------



## toyz72

looking good man. i jealous waiting on mine to get here.


----------



## YounGMessiah

I love these fans, they are truly unique.. Thanks


----------



## dihartnell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> It is designed for rads


Good for front intake as well where you have restriction like drive cages.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dihartnell*
> 
> Good for front intake as well where you have restriction like drive cages.


yep I use the noctua SP fans for intake as my case has filters, other fans made to much noise
as they had to work to hard to push air through the filter.


----------



## toyz72

well i received 3 out of 5 of my noctua 140 flx fans to day.....other 2 wont come in till wedsday. i'm going to go ahead and do a test fit in my new midi r2 and see how well they do against the thick filters.

some say there ugly brown...i say there beautiful


----------



## MrSharkington

Hey everyone







My noctua NF-F12 fans came today for my h100i, and they are amazing! I'd love to be added to the club. Also, I was thinking of upgrading my exhaust fan to a noctua, though I'm not too sure which. Does anyone know what noctua fan would be best? Thanks!


----------



## Tator Tot

S12A's for exhaust.


----------



## leyzar

Hello guys,

Can i join the club ? i own the Noctua NH-D14, funny story about it actually. I ordered the normal version and i received the 2011 version







with all the adaptors and documentation from the normal version aswell as from the 2011 version. On the box there was this sticker from noctua saying they have a bottleneck issue with supply and that's why they are sending the 2011 version but with all the trimmings of the normal version in addition to the 2011 version. So basicaly i got the best of both products







the 2011 PWM fans and the heatsink has mounted on it those little silicon things that the coolers stand on to reduce vibration aswell as all the mounting sets i could possibly need







That made me really happy after a short rage when i saw 2011 written on the box








Anyway ... i have it mounted on a 4670k with is OCd at 4.2 @ 1.200 v , Temps are spiky .. i understand that's how haswell works ? or did i do something wrong in the installation ? i did have to hold it down to fit those 2 spring loaded screws ... is that normal ? ... Anyway .. temps spike from 58 to 75 (full load) Aida 64 says the average on the most hottest core is 63.2 c (after 3h of aida 64).

So .. i am using a HF XM as a case... and i want to trick it out with noctua fans! I want the best results as possible...
These are the specs of the case http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/case/mid-tower/haf-xm.html
What would you recommend ? what fans should i buy and mount them where ? and why ? i must admit i dono much about fans and i would like to learn! Like... what is the static pressure ? what is the spec that refers to it ? How important is CFM ?

Cheers All


----------



## fredgagne79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My noctua NF-F12 fans came today for my h100i, and they are amazing! I'd love to be added to the club. Also, I was thinking of upgrading my exhaust fan to a noctua, though I'm not too sure which. Does anyone know what noctua fan would be best? Thanks!


NF-S12 series


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredgagne79*
> 
> NF-S12 series


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*
> 
> S12A's for exhaust.


Thanks to both of you


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YounGMessiah*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got all my fans put in on how I like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love it
> Booted up and these fans are epic lol my CM default fans are louder than those Noctua.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My noctua NF-F12 fans came today for my h100i, and they are amazing! I'd love to be added to the club. Also, I was thinking of upgrading my exhaust fan to a noctua, though I'm not too sure which. Does anyone know what noctua fan would be best? Thanks!


Nice rig guys.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leyzar*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> Can i join the club ? i own the Noctua NH-D14, funny story about it actually. I ordered the normal version and i received the 2011 version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with all the adaptors and documentation from the normal version aswell as from the 2011 version. On the box there was this sticker from noctua saying they have a bottleneck issue with supply and that's why they are sending the 2011 version but with all the trimmings of the normal version in addition to the 2011 version. So basicaly i got the best of both products
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the 2011 PWM fans and the heatsink has mounted on it those little silicon things that the coolers stand on to reduce vibration aswell as all the mounting sets i could possibly need
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That made me really happy after a short rage when i saw 2011 written on the box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway ... i have it mounted on a 4670k with is OCd at 4.2 @ 1.200 v , Temps are spiky .. i understand that's how haswell works ? or did i do something wrong in the installation ? i did have to hold it down to fit those 2 spring loaded screws ... is that normal ? ... Anyway .. temps spike from 58 to 75 (full load) Aida 64 says the average on the most hottest core is 63.2 c (after 3h of aida 64).
> 
> So .. i am using a HF XM as a case... and i want to trick it out with noctua fans! I want the best results as possible...
> These are the specs of the case http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/case/mid-tower/haf-xm.html
> What would you recommend ? what fans should i buy and mount them where ? and why ? i must admit i dono much about fans and i would like to learn! Like... what is the static pressure ? what is the spec that refers to it ? How important is CFM ?
> 
> Cheers All


Congratulations on getting all those goodies.

The Haswell chip has TIM between the CPU and the IHS, not solder. This means that when it makes more heat than the TIM can transmit, it gets hot in a hurry. It acts like a thermos bottle.

The key is to run it at an OC your system can handle. Since the highest heat comes from AVX2, and few pieces of software use AVX or AVX2, you will see spikes -- increases in temperature that move too quickly for and cooler to head off.

The solution is to download Linpack 11 (here) and turn off HT in BIOS, since HT slows Linpack down. Then you adapt your lininput_xeon64 file to run only the 25000 problem size. I set it to run 20 times. Then run that and check the core temps. I accept as good temps anything under 90c.

So, I run my 4770k at 4.3GHz, even though it is stable at 4.7GHz. I can run the old LinX with Linpack 9 at 4.7GHz, but LinX with Linpack 10, or LinX with Linpack 11 make it throttle -- temps spiking to 100c. So I am temp-limited, not stability-limited.

For true OC I think we will have to look at 3930k, which is soldered. You are OK for that because you have a 2011 NH-D14. If the 4930k is soldered (a preliminary look says it will be), then we will have an Ivy Bridge 2011 that will properly OC. I am holding out for the Haswell 6-core 2011 (5930k?) next year because I will have a purpose for it.

As I said, for 1150 or 2011, you will be set.


----------



## Lukas026

found some pics of my system so I will share. they are bad quality (from some crappy phone) though









back side (yeah its messy):



front view (I know my cable managment sucks







):



now my ASUS GTX 690 arrives on Friday and than I will make some good photos !


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukas026*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> found some pics of my system so I will share. they are bad quality (from some crappy phone) though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> back side (yeah its messy):
> 
> 
> 
> front view (I know my cable managment sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now my ASUS GTX 690 arrives on Friday and than I will make some good photos !


Well done. Really clean looking.


----------



## YounGMessiah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leyzar*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> Can i join the club ? i own the Noctua NH-D14, funny story about it actually. I ordered the normal version and i received the 2011 version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with all the adaptors and documentation from the normal version aswell as from the 2011 version. On the box there was this sticker from noctua saying they have a bottleneck issue with supply and that's why they are sending the 2011 version but with all the trimmings of the normal version in addition to the 2011 version. So basicaly i got the best of both products
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the 2011 PWM fans and the heatsink has mounted on it those little silicon things that the coolers stand on to reduce vibration aswell as all the mounting sets i could possibly need
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That made me really happy after a short rage when i saw 2011 written on the box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway ... i have it mounted on a 4670k with is OCd at 4.2 @ 1.200 v , Temps are spiky .. i understand that's how haswell works ? or did i do something wrong in the installation ? i did have to hold it down to fit those 2 spring loaded screws ... is that normal ? ... Anyway .. temps spike from 58 to 75 (full load) Aida 64 says the average on the most hottest core is 63.2 c (after 3h of aida 64).
> 
> So .. i am using a HF XM as a case... and i want to trick it out with noctua fans! I want the best results as possible...
> These are the specs of the case http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/case/mid-tower/haf-xm.html
> What would you recommend ? what fans should i buy and mount them where ? and why ? i must admit i dono much about fans and i would like to learn! Like... what is the static pressure ? what is the spec that refers to it ? How important is CFM ?
> 
> Cheers All


Funny you say that because I ordered the NH-D14 and they sent me the socket 2011 by mistake, but told me I could keep it while they send the 1155 socket.. So now I have a brand new NH-D14 for socket 2011 sitting around, but you reminded me I have two more Noctua fans in there


----------



## Svarog

I'm aware of the CPU Cooler orientation, but it's the only way i can mount it on my board or wont be able to fit the videocard in the PCI-E 16x Slot. Still getting great results tho









The Fan Controller is a Scythe Kaze Master Pro, i hope it lasts for a long time.


----------



## toyz72

man...some really nice noctua setups rolling in lately. great looking rig's guys


----------



## YounGMessiah

People starting to know they are awesome


----------



## YounGMessiah

Adding another P12 and P14, bringing my Noctua count up to.. 8 fans!

2 p14s, 6 p12s


----------



## Lukas026

pics please !









BTW gz on purchase


----------



## Lisjak

Hey guys, just bought a new case and wanted to show it off a little







But also if anyone has problems fitting the GPU into the first PCI slot with a Noctua nh-c 14 installed, I recently found you can turn the cooler heat pipes down and that will give some more room for the gpu


----------



## doyll

Looks nice Lisjak.


----------



## YounGMessiah

I will get better photos later, as im inside and the light source isnt the greatest topped off with my lower quality phone...

Anyways you can see 6 Noctuas just in this photo , yes I have (right to left) a P12, P14, P12, P14, 2 P12s on top and 2 P12s in the front. Bottom of case I have the 2 LED 120s that came with the CM Storm Stryker and the 140mm on top of my PSU for ****s and giggles..


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lisjak*
> 
> Hey guys, just bought a new case and wanted to show it off a little
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But also if anyone has problems fitting the GPU into the first PCI slot with a Noctua nh-c 14 installed, I recently found you can turn the cooler heat pipes down and that will give some more room for the gpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build! Probably my fav. noctua cpu cooler.


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lisjak*
> 
> ... turn the cooler heat pipes down ...


I hate to burst your bubble but you need to read *this*.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> I hate to burst your bubble but you need to read *this*.


I think he has the curved part of the heat pipes down which is ok.
at least the pic looks like they are.


----------



## jameyscott

So, I just joined the club. I can't wait until next year when they come in black to actually match my case, but I digress. I caved and went ahead and bought 3 Noctua A14s. Two for my H110 and one for my back exhaust that I'm turning into a intake with a fan grill.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> So, I just joined the club. I can't wait until next year when they come in black to actually match my case, but I digress. I caved and went ahead and bought 3 Noctua A14s. Two for my H110 and one for my back exhaust that I'm turning into a intake with a fan grill.


I like the Noctua color. I wouldn't want them black.


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> I hate to burst your bubble but you need to read *this*.
> 
> 
> 
> I think he has the curved part of the heat pipes down which is ok.
> at least the pic looks like they are.
Click to expand...

Oops you're right, my mistake.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> I like the Noctua color. I wouldn't want them black.


To each his own. I'd prefer black just because of my overall set up, however if I had a board that was also brown, like some ASUS boards are, I wouldn't mind it. It's just with everything else in my case black or red, I really only can stand to have those colors in it.

These are the exception because of the performance that they offer. I couldn't pass up on them.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> To each his own. I'd prefer black just because of my overall set up, however if I had a board that was also brown, like some ASUS boards are, I wouldn't mind it. It's just with everything else in my case black or red, I really only can stand to have those colors in it.
> 
> These are the exception because of the performance that they offer. I couldn't pass up on them.


yep, everyone has their own style and I am not knocking yours.
I have the military green case and my asus board has the green heatsinks so it goes well with mine,
I think anyway. and with black and red like yours those brown and tan fans would kinda jump out ay ya.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> yep, everyone has their own style and I am not knocking yours.
> I have the military green case and my asus board has the green heatsinks so it goes well with mine,
> I think anyway. and with black and red like yours those brown and tan fans would kinda jump out ay ya.


Yeah, I love a green and black design with an army green case. It's pretty. I didn't even really want to do red with black. It kinda just happened. I found this mobo and fell in love with it. So, everything ended up matching it.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> I hate to burst your bubble but you need to read *this*.
> 
> 
> 
> I think he has the curved part of the heat pipes down which is ok.
> at least the pic looks like they are.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oops you're right, my mistake.
Click to expand...

BTW -- I did a review of that heatsink here. You may wish to experiment with the orientation of your heatsink. It may make a difference.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> BTW -- I did a review of that heatsink here. You may wish to experiment with the orientation of your heatsink. It may make a difference.


thanks I will read that as the cooler is close to my NH-C12P SE14 140mm heatsink, except mine only has 1 fan as it's not a flat heatsink so you can't put another fan under it.
I have this one.

http://www.noctua.at/images/products/fullsize/noctua_nh_c12p_se14_1.jpg


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> BTW -- I did a review of that heatsink here. You may wish to experiment with the orientation of your heatsink. It may make a difference.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks I will read that as the cooler is close to my NH-C12P SE14 140mm heatsink, except mine only has 1 fan as it's not a flat heatsink so you can't put another fan under it.
> I have this one.
> 
> http://www.noctua.at/images/products/fullsize/noctua_nh_c12p_se14_1.jpg
Click to expand...

Ah. But do check the flatness of your contact plate and your IHS. The orientation may make a difference.


----------



## ozlay

I got a nh-d14 with just stock fans

some old pics


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Ah. But do check the flatness of your contact plate and your IHS. The orientation may make a difference.


my idle temps right now are 24c 24c 17c 28c 22c 25c and when folding the max temp for a core is 72c
I do have a cold home office though with a/c to keep things cool.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> I got a nh-d14 with just stock fans
> 
> some old pics


I would assume you have cleaned that heatsink since you took those pics


----------



## ozlay

well it sucks in all the dust in my house so i dont have to dust my house but yeah i have to dust him out weekly








meh 300th post


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> well it sucks in all the dust in my house so i dont have to dust my house but yeah i have to dust him out weekly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> meh 300th post


now that's funny, don't have to dust your house.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> well it sucks in all the dust in my house so i dont have to dust my house but yeah i have to dust him out weekly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> meh 300th post


Do you have a positive or negative pressure case?

sent from a small tablet aka N2


----------



## Lisjak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice build! Probably my fav. noctua cpu cooler.


Thank you! I am getting pretty great temps also. Under load it never goes over 50°c. Although I have yet to overclock my cpu.


----------



## ozlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Do you have a positive or negative pressure case?
> 
> sent from a small tablet aka N2


what?


----------



## GingertronMk1

Do you have more air going in or coming out of your case?


----------



## ozlay

I have 3 in 3 out so more out then probably


----------



## GingertronMk1

If you've got more out than in, dust will get sucked in through all the little crevices in the case, causing it to build up. If you were to flip one of your exhaust fans around or remove one, the air will be pushing out of the little crevices, meaning you don't have to clean up once a week.


----------



## ozlay

my front 3 fans have filters and that mostly where the dust is that i need to clean out every week i normally spray it with a water free air compressor once every 3 months or so


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> I have 3 in 3 out so more out then probably


It's not so much the amount of fans, but the amount of air actually going through the case. For instance, I have three Scythe GT AP-15s in the front of my case which pull about 60CFM into the case. I have 3 stock 140MM fans in the back and top pulling air out.

Sounds like a negative pressure case, right? Well, not exactly. I have a Radiator on the top with the two of the three 140MM fans, so they aren't pulling out as much air as they could. The back one is unblocked, so it is pulling out what it is rated at. (These are stock case fans, they don't do much to begin with)

For sake of arguement let's say that they pull out 70CFM. That's more than the Scythe's right? Well, yes, but there is a radiator on two of the fans. They probably pull out less than half of that 70, and then there is still one that is unblocked. So, total, there is 35+35+70 pulling out of the case which is 140 versus the 60+60+60 pulling into the case. which is 180. So, positive pressure.

If you know a little about air and how it works, it wants to normalize pressure. Air expands to its container. Well, with more air coming in, than out, that air still has to go somewhere, right? It wants to equalize. There are a ton of vents on my case. The unused pci slots, above the 140MM exhaust fan, etc. That's where the air is escaping out, and not in.

With the air pushing out, dust can't get in and settle through those areas.

With a negative pressure case, however. The air still wants to equalize, so it is pulling air in through the same vents. Thus pulling in more dusty air.

When you install intake fans, always put a dust cover to keep your case clean, and make it easier to clean.

Positive pressure, negative pressure, no matter what you have, You'll have a dusty case if you have a dusty room. Keep that in mind also.


----------



## doyll

That is assuming all your intake fans have filters and filters are kept clean.


----------



## ozlay

well i really want to get a new case soon im actually saving up for a case for my next build which will use the noctua i dont really need any more space but i want a cheap case that will have lots of room around the motherboard for better cableing and such theres not much i can do with the case i have to make it better the air flow it has is good its just not what i want what i really want is a rosewell blackhawk ultra but dont have the moneys at the moment for any upgrades but yeah i dont think i will bother messing around with the fans in the case planing on switching too a new board soon anyways


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> well i really want to get a new case soon im actually saving up for a case for my next build which will use the noctua i dont really need any more space but i want a cheap case that will have lots of room around the motherboard for better cableing and such theres not much i can do with the case i have to make it better the air flow it has is good its just not what i want what i really want is a rosewell blackhawk ultra but dont have the moneys at the moment for any upgrades but yeah i dont think i will bother messing around with the fans in the case planing on switching too a new board soon anyways


How much are you looking to spend? I could really recommend my case. A ton of room for it's size, and it keeps all the crap that doesn't need to be cooled out of the way.


----------



## ozlay

nothing at the moment like i said i dont really have the cash but i wouldnt pay more then $200 for a case if i had the cash lol im unemployed so no cash really coming in at this time


----------



## jameyscott

My case is 140ish, so it's within your budget. I'm sure you could spend a little more and get something better. I just love the sexiness of my case though. Tons of airflow through it. TONS!


----------



## TenshiPL

My new Noctua, NH-U12S


----------



## toyz72

so pretty when there new







put it to work!


----------



## n3ts3c

NH-U9B SE2 in my new rig. I thought Noctua were too expensive previously, but I got a great deal on this one and it seemed the only tower air solution that would clear under the PSU (around 130mm).

Really impressed with it so far; sat on an 3570k still @ 3.4 for now, if I remember right it averaged 65°C on 20 IBT runs.


----------



## Norse

These are now my 3rd and 4th NH-U12-DO A3



i now REALLY dislike these little screws


----------



## Milestailsprowe

Noctua NF-F12 PWM http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608026

VS

Noctua NF-S12A FLX 120mm http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608037

Ok so I replaced my NHL9I for the NHL12 for better cooling and it lets me use Amd if I so choose in the future. Due to the fact I have a SG05 Case I could not use the Upper fan whish was the NF-12 fan and I already had gotten the NF-S12A FLX fan for my case.

The Websites all say the S12A has better airflow but the NF-F12 has better static pressure. I'm lost on what to do.

Which fan should I use.

Here is what I'm working with. 
I'm using the fan from the NH-9I for extra cooling but Now I have a heatsink with no use for it


----------



## doyll

* CFM is fan rating with no restriction... setting clean bench top.
* Static pressure / mm H2O rating is the point water is at in tube when air stops flowing... Static is still, stopped, no movement.
* CFM decreases as static pressure/resistance increases.
A fan with high CFM but low H2O will stop flowing air at a lower mm H2O / resistance than a fan with lower CFM but higher mm H2O rating.

For example a 60cfm & 3mm H2O rated will most likely flow more air than a 80cfm & 0.7mm H2O rated fan through a vent grill and other resistance... just like it will through a cooler or radiator... As mm H2O / resistance rises to 0.7mm H2O the 60cfm fan doesn't loose much airflow, but the 80cfm fan has reached it's limit and is flowing no air.

Even an exhaust fan has the exhaust grill resisting airflow. That is why I say use fans with decent static pressure.


----------



## Milestailsprowe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> * CFM is fan rating with no restriction... setting clean bench top.
> * Static pressure / mm H2O rating is the point water is at in tube when air stops flowing... Static is still, stopped, no movement.
> * CFM decreases as static pressure/resistance increases.
> A fan with high CFM but low H2O will stop flowing air at a lower mm H2O / resistance than a fan with lower CFM but higher mm H2O rating.
> 
> For example a 60cfm & 3mm H2O rated will most likely flow more air than a 80cfm & 0.7mm H2O rated fan through a vent grill and other resistance... just like it will through a cooler or radiator... As mm H2O / resistance rises to 0.7mm H2O the 60cfm fan doesn't loose much airflow, but the 80cfm fan has reached it's limit and is flowing no air.
> 
> Even an exhaust fan has the exhaust grill resisting airflow. That is why I say use fans with decent static pressure.


So use the F12 fan?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milestailsprowe*
> 
> So use the F12 fan?


I would. F12 is only 13% less airflow at 0.00mm H2O but has 219% more mm H2O. At a guess that meas at about 0.5mm H2O F12 will most likely be pushing at least as much air a S12... and any aditional resistance only makes it better than S12.

It's really hard to say how well a fan will perform without have a graph like this.

Even though Cougar spec is 70cfm and AP-15 is 58cfm the Cougar flows about [email protected] while AP-15 flows about 43cfm. Problem is most fans don't give us pressure flow charts.

Martin has some good info.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/02/18/why-static-pressure-max-flow-specs-are-poor-measures-of-fan-performance/


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*


^ Superb graph







.


----------



## Milestailsprowe

I tested both fans with a feel test and even made a game out of it by seeing which one would blow down a peice of paper further and the Noctua NF-S12A FLX won.

Now I have a extra fan and heat sink looking for a new owner

Might use this 120mm to 92mm on a friends future build
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811996022


----------



## jeffrey1027

How does one mount Corsair Sp120 fans onto the NH-D14??


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffrey1027*
> 
> How does one mount Corsair Sp120 fans onto the NH-D14??


you should be able to use the factory fan clips.....the ones it came with. they should line right up with 120mm fan holes?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jeffrey1027*
> 
> How does one mount Corsair Sp120 fans onto the NH-D14??
> 
> 
> 
> you should be able to use the factory fan clips.....the ones it came with. they should line right up with 120mm fan holes?
Click to expand...

Ah, but the old fan clips go into pushpins that are too short for most fan frames, which use thicker plastic than other fans.

If you have the older clips (they require mounting to the flange closer to the fin stack they clip onto), write to Noctua to get the newer clips. The newer clips clip onto the outside of the flange further from the finstack. They can be used on any fan.

But really, unless you've damaged your fan an NF-P12 is probably the optimal fan for t\a D14's push fan. And for the middle fan you're better off with a 140mm fan. Look at all seven chapters in item 4 in my sig.


----------



## toyz72

i still got some work to do, but its up and running.


----------



## dihartnell

Nice!!. very tidy. Do you also have a side fan? One extra intake fan will give you a bit more positive pressure.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dihartnell*
> 
> Nice!!. very tidy. Do you also have a side fan? One extra intake fan will give you a bit more positive pressure.


no... the egg had the r2 with the window on sale for $69. i have all the fans set to about 40% and it seems to be doing very well. noctua's logo should say ......silence is golden!

the wife's arc mini is up next. this way all the pc's in our computer room will be next to silent. she mostly use's here pc for school,bills,surfing and very light gaming. here's the spec' and what i'll be adding...

amd 555x2
gigabyte 880ggma-ud2h
8 gigs crucial tracer
1tb wd black hdd
asus 5770
550x antec tp
arc mini case

i'm replacing all the fans and cpu cooler....
2 front fan's.....nf-p12's
back fan.....nf-p12
top fan......nf-p14
cpu cooler....nh-c12p

i'll post some pic's when i get it done


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*


That P12 is not doing much behind the HDDs, I'd lay it down on the floor as intake.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i still got some work to do, but its up and running.


I'd flip the top fan in the forward position to be an intake instead. Exhaust would be working against the heatsink fan.


----------



## toyz72

you all act like im having a cooling issue...i'm not ,lol. maybe later i'll try different set up's later, but right now i'm not seeing a problem


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> you all act like im having a cooling issue...i'm not ,lol. maybe later i'll try different set up's later, but right now i'm not seeing a problem


Probably don't but it could be better


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Probably don't but it could be better


i hear ya there. if i did change anything, it would be the front top fan. its not the easiest fan to change either...see what you did


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i hear ya there. if i did change anything, it would be the front top fan. its not the easiest fan to change either...see what you did


That fan will be hard to change. I was putting together a R4 build with a phanteks dual tower and I needed a third hand to do the cables.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> you all act like im having a cooling issue...i'm not ,lol. maybe later i'll try different set up's later, but right now i'm not seeing a problem


You may not have a cooling issue but you do have airblow fustercluck because of your fan placement... lots of fans with some of them not needed, making more noise, and some actually reducing the performance of the others.









But it's your fans and your case so don't let logic, common sense and facts cloud your mind.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You may not have a cooling issue but you do have airblow fustercluck because of your fan placement... lots of fans with some of them not needed, making more noise, and some actually reducing the performance of the others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's your fans and your case so don't let logic, common sense and facts cloud your mind.


maybe be more informative?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> maybe be more informative?


Suggestions were already made.


----------



## toyz72

what i thought







one fan up,one fan down


----------



## doyll

Check the one blowing in does not suck the heated air from the one blowing out.

I would test to see if the top exhaust fan is even needed by checking temps with it running and with it unplugged.

Here's a basic tutorial about airflow and cooling:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



There is much more to cooling than good cases and good CPU / GPU coolers. Modern GPU's make more heat than CPU... and getting that heat out of the case can be a challenge.

Setting up the case to cool properly is the hardest and most time consuming part of a build... And the most neglected by most builders.

Cases, especially those with filters, usually benefit from fans with higher static pressure ratings than stock fans... "cooler" fans instead of "case" fans.
Intakes are typically more restricted than exhaust; air filter, more restrictive grill, HDD cage, etc.
I prefer more intake than exhaust. And don't confuse number of fans with amount of airflow... or air*flow* with air*blow*

air*flow* is flowing cool air from intake to component and flowing hot air from component out of case without the hot air mixing with the cool air.

air*blow* is lots of fans blowing air with some of hot air from components mixing with cool air making it warmer resulting in warm air not cooling components as well as the cool air will.

Putting fans in case as intake and/or exhaust is only the first step. These fans only move air in and out of case.

This does not mean heated air is not mixing with cool air.

Nor does it mean cool air is going to where it is needed.

Getting the air to flow inside of case properly is even more important. We still need to manage where the air flows inside the case. We can do this several ways; deflectors, cooler intake fans, exhaust fans, removing vent grills, using fans with higher pressure/airflow, building ducts to or from CPU/GPU cooler, etc.

Using a remote temperature sensor to monitor what air temps are is the key to finding out where the cool air is flowing and knowing heated air is not mixing into it. By monitoring this we can than make changes to get airflow the way we want it.

I monitor the temps with a cheap indoor/outdoor wired remote or terrarium digital thermometer. Twist a piece of stiff insulated wire into the last 8" of sensor lead so you can bend it to position sensor where you want it... like 40mm in front of your GPU cooler/radiator intake.. to see what the air temp going into CPU / GPU cooler is compared to room temp. The closer it is to room temp the better.. Shouldn't be more 5c maximum, 2-3c is what I usually end up with after 30 minutes full load on both CPU and GPU.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## toyz72

that was my biggest concern with flipping the top front fan. the top fans are on two different channels on my fan controller,so it shouldn't be to hard to check.

right now all my fans are set to 50%. under prime95 the cpu see's around 58c. running 3dmark is about the same,but my gpu hits around 75c.

so i do have some numbers i can compare to while testing different fan set ups.right now i'm finding the top filter to be the most restrictive.


----------



## CZECHYa

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/iduv.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/mswk.jpg/

Cool and quiet. Noctua <3

Specs:

Fractal Design Define R4 Titanium
MSI Z77A-GD65
Core i7-2600K 4,5 / 1.30V 30 idle / 64 load
Noctua NH-U14S
MSI GTX 770 Gaming 1320/8010 75 full load
Seasonic X-660
Samsung 840 Pro 120GB, WD Caviar Black 500GB, WD Caviar Green 2TB
Asus Xonar Essence STX


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CZECHYa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/iduv.jpg/
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/mswk.jpg/
> 
> Cool and quiet. Noctua <3
> 
> Specs:
> 
> Fractal Design Define R4 Titanium
> MSI Z77A-GD65
> Core i7-2600K 4,5 / 1.30V 30 idle / 64 load
> Noctua NH-U14S
> MSI GTX 770 Gaming 1320/8010 75 full load
> Seasonic X-660
> Samsung 840 Pro 120GB, WD Caviar Black 500GB, WD Caviar Green 2TB
> Asus Xonar Essence STX


Clean build.


----------



## ozlay

do these temps look ok thinking about getting some better fans


edit: ops wrong tread


----------



## senna89

I fit noctua U14s, ugly but super performance !
-20° than Corsair H60


----------



## Milestailsprowe

So I put this together for a friend since I had the NHl9i cooler sitting around when I replaced it with the NHL12 and a extra fan

Now looking at it I kinda wish I did this in the first place instead of get the NHL12


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milestailsprowe*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I put this together for a friend since I had the NHl9i cooler sitting around when I replaced it with the NHL12 and a extra fan
> 
> Now looking at it I kinda wish I did this in the first place instead of get the NHL12


How are the temps?


----------



## Milestailsprowe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> How are the temps?


Great honestly. The sink maybe smaller but it Seems on par my NHL12. Sadly I can't do a real test because the cooler blocks the express slot on my board.


----------



## majorpaule

So here is my new Noctua setup









hope you like it, pls give me some feedback!


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majorpaule*
> 
> So here is my new Noctua setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope you like it, pls give me some feedback!


Thanks for showing us how AIO's fit in that case. Nice looking rig. +rep


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majorpaule*
> 
> So here is my new Noctua setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope you like it, pls give me some feedback!


Looks great although, I have some suggestions to make it look a little neater. Move the GPU pins off to the side and under the rad, and if possible, keep the tubes for the GPU rad under the card. I think it would look a littler neater.

Question: Why did you cool the bottom one and not the top one? The top one is going to be hotter. Just curious!

Great build though! Gotta love that Corsair 540.


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majorpaule*


First clever & brave 540 owner I've seen laying intake fans on the floor, congrats!









Now think about throwing that HDD into the backroom and laying another F12 on the floor







.


----------



## majorpaule

Thank you ehume!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Looks great although, I have some suggestions to make it look a little neater. Move the GPU pins off to the side and under the rad, and if possible, keep the tubes for the GPU rad under the card. I think it would look a littler neater.
> 
> Question: Why did you cool the bottom one and not the top one? The top one is going to be hotter. Just curious!
> 
> Great build though! Gotta love that Corsair 540.


Thank you for your suggestions. Good idea with the tubes and the pins! I will try it.

The top one will get its own aio antec 620. it is just a workaround until all parts are here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> First clever & brave 540 owner I've seen laying intake fans on the floor, congrats!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now think about throwing that HDD into the backroom and laying another F12 on the floor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Will think about that


----------



## pepi93

Just got a NH-D14

It was between that and the Thermalright SB-E Silver Arrow but when it came down to price/availability it was a no brainer.

In any case I'm very happy with the Noctua and their customer support is also quite good.

Thermal Paste is great too.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pepi93*
> 
> Just got a NH-D14
> 
> It was between that and the Thermalright SB-E Silver Arrow but when it came down to price/availability it was a no brainer.
> 
> In any case I'm very happy with the Noctua and their customer support is also quite good.
> 
> Thermal Paste is great too.


What case is this?


----------



## pepi93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> What case is this?


Lian Li 7HX and it looks and feels 10x better than any picture can show

I actually broke my head over a new case for a week, taking apart dozens of cases at a local shop...was never satisfied with any...I had a Lian Li PC-60B+II till I bought this one and realized...once you go Lian Li, you can't go back



Those LED fans are BitFenix PRO 140's and 120's though...no brainer when I got them on clearance for 1/3 the price $8.88 each, just because they were white lol...


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majorpaule*
> 
> So here is my new Noctua setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope you like it, pls give me some feedback!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1638586/width/500/height/1000
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1638587/width/500/height/1000
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1638588/width/500/height/1000


I would think about getting an aftermarket cooler for your GPU, the XFX HD7900 series is notoriously hot/loud


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> I would think about getting an aftermarket cooler for your GPU, the XFX HD7900 series is notoriously hot/loud


Its loud and its hot as all hell had a XFX DD myself


----------



## EarlZ

I see that in some reviews the U12/14 is as good as the D14 and in some cases it out performs the D14, how is that possible when the D14 is pretty massive?

I am actually thinking of going back to air cooling as the pump on my H220 is making a very audible clicking noise for the second time around and it is a waste of time and money to keep sending this back and I am considering the U12/14 if thats going to be the case..


----------



## Nowyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I see that in some reviews the U12/14 is as good as the D14 and in some cases it out performs the D14, how is that possible when the D14 is pretty massive?
> 
> I am actually thinking of going back to air cooling as the pump on my H220 is making a very audible clicking noise for the second time around and it is a waste of time and money to keep sending this back and I am considering the U12/14 if thats going to be the case..


It all depend on maximum heat dissipation needed. With lower TDP cpu sure they can show same results, but as the heat buildup increases D14 would still win cause it has more are and thus can dissipate more heat.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nowyn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I see that in some reviews the U12/14 is as good as the D14 and in some cases it out performs the D14, how is that possible when the D14 is pretty massive?
> 
> I am actually thinking of going back to air cooling as the pump on my H220 is making a very audible clicking noise for the second time around and it is a waste of time and money to keep sending this back and I am considering the U12/14 if thats going to be the case..
> 
> 
> 
> It all depend on maximum heat dissipation needed. With lower TDP cpu sure they can show same results, but as the heat buildup increases D14 would still win cause it has more are and thus can dissipate more heat.
Click to expand...

I guess thats a D14 for the Haswell chips then but I think I cannot fit the D14 into my setup as I am using VERY tall rams.


----------



## doyll

At 345.1w heat the NH-U14S is
3.6c cooler than NH-D14
http://www.microsofttranslator.com/bv.aspx?from=&to=en&a=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thelab.gr%2Fheatsinks-coolers-watercooling-reviews%2Fcpu-cooler-review-database-89014.html


----------



## EarlZ

I wonder if the u14s can fit on my rig


----------



## doyll

Here's NH-U14S measurements:


Top of CPU is 8mm above motherboard surface.


----------



## EarlZ

With a vertical mount I 99.999% certain it will fit with out hitting the RAM modules but I've read that having a horizontal install is better as more heatpipes are actually in contact with the die area
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> At 345.1w heat the NH-U14S is
> 3.6c cooler than NH-D14
> http://www.microsofttranslator.com/bv.aspx?from=&to=en&a=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thelab.gr%2Fheatsinks-coolers-watercooling-reviews%2Fcpu-cooler-review-database-89014.html


So that means the U14S is still better than the D14 with Haswell? I think these chips throw around 250W of heat or so ?
I am also wondering if I get 83c temps on my H220 with GT-AP15 I wonder if the U14S can be on the same temp range.


----------



## Dragon-Emperor

Hi guys,

I just purchased a new case yesterday (Corsair Carbide 540) and after all is setup... DAMN it's loud. Yes, those stock, moaning, brittle plastic abominations possessed by grinding hurricanes full of warming, clicking cockroach wings need to GO (the stock fans).
http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/4751/jlac.jpg

The question, that surely has been asked already:
3 * NF-F12 as intake
or
2 * NF-A15 as intake

and what would you recommend for the rear exhaust? I can only afford 3-4 Noctuas tomorrow max, so the top will have to come in a few weeks.

Thanks in advance!
(and yes, I plan to stick with air cooling. No water for me)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> So that means the U14S is still better than the D14 with Haswell? I think these chips throw around 250W of heat or so ?
> I am also wondering if I get 83c temps on my H220 with GT-AP15 I wonder if the U14S can be on the same temp range.


U14S, D14, 14TC, Silver Arrow SB-E are all about the same.
Can't help with H220 vs U14S.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragon-Emperor*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I just purchased a new case yesterday (Corsair Carbide 540) and after all is setup... DAMN it's loud. Yes, those stock, moaning, brittle plastic abominations possessed by grinding hurricanes full of warming, clicking cockroach wings need to GO (the stock fans).
> http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/4751/jlac.jpg
> 
> The question, that surely has been asked already:
> 3 * NF-F12 as intake
> or
> 2 * NF-A15 as intake
> 
> and what would you recommend for the rear exhaust? I can only afford 3-4 Noctuas tomorrow max, so the top will have to come in a few weeks.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> (and yes, I plan to stick with air cooling. No water for me)


If you have room for a 140 mm fan, use one.

Do not neglect thinking about the NF-A14 PWM as well as the NF-A15 PWM. They have identical blades and are excellent fans.

Comparable: the TY-140.

For intake, if you are constrained to use a 120 mm fan, use the NF-P12 PWM, not the NF-F12 PWM.

I say PWM because you can link them to PWM headers and have your motherboard control them.

As for exhaust, remove your rear fan and let the air find its own way out, silently. After all, your case already comes without the perforated sheet metal that manufacturers call a "grill."


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragon-Emperor*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I just purchased a new case yesterday (Corsair Carbide 540) and after all is setup... DAMN it's loud. Yes, those stock, moaning, brittle plastic abominations possessed by grinding hurricanes full of warming, clicking cockroach wings need to GO (the stock fans).
> http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/4751/jlac.jpg
> 
> The question, that surely has been asked already:
> 3 * NF-F12 as intake
> or
> 2 * NF-A15 as intake
> 
> and what would you recommend for the rear exhaust? I can only afford 3-4 Noctuas tomorrow max, so the top will have to come in a few weeks.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> (and yes, I plan to stick with air cooling. No water for me)


do some shopping online as I found Noctua fans for good prices, I did buy from 3 different companies but I saved lots of money as different companies have different prices for the fan size sometimes. I have a Corsair C70 with 2 120mm noctuas front, 1 120mm noctua rear, 2 140mm noctua top exhaust, and of course a noctua cpu heatsink, my system is quiet and cool.


----------



## Dragon-Emperor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> do some shopping online as I found Noctua fans for good prices, I did buy from 3 different companies but I saved lots of money as different companies have different prices for the fan size sometimes. I have a Corsair C70 with 2 120mm noctuas front, 1 120mm noctua rear, 2 140mm noctua top exhaust, and of course a noctua cpu heatsink, my system is quiet and cool.


That's true. there's lots of variation in prices on cooling components online it seems. I'll be sure to hunt for the best deal available in Canada!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> If you have room for a 140 mm fan, use one.
> 
> Do not neglect thinking about the NF-A14 PWM as well as the NF-A15 PWM. They have identical blades and are excellent fans.
> 
> Comparable: the TY-140.
> 
> For intake, if you are constrained to use a 120 mm fan, use the NF-P12 PWM, not the NF-F12 PWM.
> 
> I say PWM because you can link them to PWM headers and have your motherboard control them.
> 
> As for exhaust, remove your rear fan and let the air find its own way out, silently. After all, your case already comes without the perforated sheet metal that manufacturers call a "grill."


Thank you for the reply,

So, if I can fit the two 14's, that's the way to go over a three 12's each time? And I wont be losing out on some amazing airflow or something? If that's the case then it saves my wallet another $ 25









Wow, I didn't even know that NF-A14 had a PWM variation, that's awesome! Must be quite new, as I cannot find them listed at newegg.ca, and they are out of stock at ncix.ca. They look to have even higher specs than the NF-A15 too, so that's great.

Looks like I shall wait for the NF-A15s to come into stock and then purchase 2 for front intake. Should I purchase another 1 or 2 for intakes on top as well?
Leaving the rear exhaust uncovered for the air to find its way out is a cool idea too. I'll do just that









I was considering Corsair SP120's, but somehow the Noctuas just feel more right... Ah clean white noise silence.


----------



## jlhawn

I tried 2 Corsair SP120's before I bought my Noctuas and the SP fans had a high picthed noise that drove me crazy, I sold them to someone that doesn't care about noise, also they didn't even come close in performance to the 2 Noctuas I have in front of my case for intake.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragon-Emperor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> do some shopping online as I found Noctua fans for good prices, I did buy from 3 different companies but I saved lots of money as different companies have different prices for the fan size sometimes. I have a Corsair C70 with 2 120mm noctuas front, 1 120mm noctua rear, 2 140mm noctua top exhaust, and of course a noctua cpu heatsink, my system is quiet and cool.
> 
> 
> 
> That's true. there's lots of variation in prices on cooling components online it seems. I'll be sure to hunt for the best deal available in Canada!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> If you have room for a 140 mm fan, use one.
> 
> Do not neglect thinking about the NF-A14 PWM as well as the NF-A15 PWM. They have identical blades and are excellent fans.
> 
> Comparable: the TY-140.
> 
> For intake, if you are constrained to use a 120 mm fan, use the NF-P12 PWM, not the NF-F12 PWM.
> 
> I say PWM because you can link them to PWM headers and have your motherboard control them.
> 
> As for exhaust, remove your rear fan and let the air find its own way out, silently. After all, your case already comes without the perforated sheet metal that manufacturers call a "grill."
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you for the reply,
> 
> So, if I can fit the two 14's, that's the way to go over a three 12's each time? And I wont be losing out on some amazing airflow or something? If that's the case then it saves my wallet another $ 25
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, I didn't even know that NF-A14 had a PWM variation, that's awesome! Must be quite new, as I cannot find them listed at newegg.ca, and they are out of stock at ncix.ca. They look to have even higher specs than the NF-A15 too, so that's great.
> 
> Looks like I shall wait for the NF-A15s to come into stock and then purchase 2 for front intake. Should I purchase another 1 or 2 for intakes on top as well?
> Leaving the rear exhaust uncovered for the air to find its way out is a cool idea too. I'll do just that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was considering Corsair SP120's, but somehow the Noctuas just feel more right... Ah clean white noise silence.
Click to expand...

Make sure you have room for those A15's. They are 151mm wide, after all.

Two 140's vs three 120's. Hmm. I hadn't thought of that. You will have to add up your CFM's, and then consider the noise. Air coming from the 120 mm fan is generally faster, but there is less of it. So the 140 is generally quieter. But three vs two. I don't know.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragon-Emperor*
> 
> Wow, I didn't even know that NF-A14 had a PWM variation, that's awesome! Must be quite new, as I cannot find them listed at newegg.ca, and they are out of stock at ncix.ca. They look to have even higher specs than the NF-A15 too, so that's great.


They are fairly simlar fans, they difer on the rpm range and in the frame, here the curve of both fans,


----------



## doyll

The 3x 120mm vs 2x 140mm is a tough one.
I use 140mm whenever possible.. and so far my preferred fans are TY-14x series fans. When I can get TY-147 for £5.75, TY-140 for £7.04 and TY-143 for £6.95 it's hard not to love them.









I wish Phanteks' new fans were not in the £15-16.00 range.


----------



## lifeskills

just picked up 4x 140mm NF-A14 FLX for my case fans(2 up front, 2 top exhaust) and 2x 120mm NF-S12A FLX for my H70 rad, along with a Nzxt sentry mix controller. Pretty excited because I heard these fans are awesome.

Did I choose good fans for air cooling? wasn't sure what to make of all the different models, so I just picked the highest airflow ones

Case is a Fractal midi R2, forgot to update sig


----------



## Beemo

I just got my 4 Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans installed. Man these things are quality, plus all the goodies you get. Those little rubber holders are pretty cool as well, I now understand why they are so pricey. Oh yeah they are quiet too!

Pictures:
http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Tarant/media/20130914_191632_zps66f58824.jpg.html

http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Tarant/media/20130914_191645_zps1ec1dc90.jpg.html


----------



## Dragon-Emperor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beemo*
> 
> I just got my 4 Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans installed. Man these things are quality, plus all the goodies you get. Those little rubber holders are pretty cool as well, I now understand why they are so pricey. Oh yeah they are quiet too!
> 
> Pictures:
> http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Tarant/media/20130914_191632_zps66f58824.jpg.html
> 
> http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Tarant/media/20130914_191645_zps1ec1dc90.jpg.html


That looks fantastic Beemo!


----------



## Dragon-Emperor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> For intake, if you are constrained to use a 120 mm fan, use the NF-P12 PWM, not the NF-F12 PWM.


I should have asked this earlier, but for the 120mm intake fan choice, would the NF-F12 not make more sense for its high static pressure to get past the front filter+grill (of the Corsair Carbide 540), more so than the NF-P12 (that is, to my knowledge intended as a case fan that would excel with less restriction)?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragon-Emperor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> For intake, if you are constrained to use a 120 mm fan, use the NF-P12 PWM, not the NF-F12 PWM.
> 
> 
> 
> I should have asked this earlier, but for the 120mm intake fan choice, would the NF-F12 not make more sense for its high static pressure to get past the front filter+grill (of the Corsair Carbide 540), more so than the NF-P12 (that is, to my knowledge intended as a case fan that would excel with less restriction)?
Click to expand...

I find the F12's a little noisier than the P12's. They both have pretty good static pressure.

With a choice of both I went with the P12's rather than the F12's. I suppose later I will test them with filters.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> They are fairly simlar fans, they difer on the rpm range and in the frame, here the curve of both fans,
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1656448/width/500/height/1000
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1656447/width/500/height/1000


Keep in mind the NF-A14 PWM is supposed to spin up 1500RPM while the NF-A15 spins up to 1200RPM.

If you put the included NF-A14 PWM LNA adapter it turns into a NF-A14 FLX with PWM (1200RPM max)

Hope that helps!


----------



## lifeskills

Well, they're here! But I'm of to go camping so the install will have to wait until Friday

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## rixar

hello to everyone! my first post in this thread. I´m using a NH U12P SE2 to cool an FX8320 i bought 2 weeks ago.

i think i have some temps issues. I don´t know if it is because a bad thermal compound application or a bad distribution of my case fans.

This is what i can tell you:

Pics from the compound i applied (maybe too much?) and from the inside of my rig:

 

The rear nidec is exhausting heat as the two top nidecs do (the left one is almost invisible because of the noctua.)

There's also a nidec in the low front of the case, intake mode.

So these are some examples of my temps:

all fans at full speed Vcore:1.3V CPU clk: 4.2GHZ Memory: 1600 [email protected]

Ambiental temp: 26ºC

After 1h6min of prime95 large fft with no errors or warnings:

(LLC ultra high) FULL LOAD socket: 70ºC / core: 54.5ºC / Motherboard: 31ºC Idle: 35ºC / 18ºC / 31ºC

(LLC High) FULL LOAD socket: 65ºC / core: 49.8ºC / Motherboard: 32ºC Idle: 35ºC / 18ºC / 31ºC

So... what do you think?

Thank you! (and add me to the club







)


----------



## toyz72

try cutting your tim to about half of that. to much tim can cause high temps.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rixar*
> 
> hello to everyone! my first post in this thread. I´m using a NH U12P SE2 to cool an FX8320 i bought 2 weeks ago.
> 
> i think i have some temps issues. I don´t know if it is because a bad thermal compound application or a bad distribution of my case fans.
> 
> This is what i can tell you:
> 
> Pics from the compound i applied (maybe too much?) and from the inside of my rig:
> 
> 
> 
> The rear nidec is exhausting heat as the two top nidecs do (the left one is almost invisible because of the noctua.)
> 
> There's also a nidec in the low front of the case, intake mode.
> 
> So these are some examples of my temps:
> 
> all fans at full speed Vcore:1.3V CPU clk: 4.2GHZ Memory: 1600 [email protected]
> 
> Ambiental temp: 26ºC
> 
> After 1h6min of prime95 large fft with no errors or warnings:
> 
> (LLC ultra high) FULL LOAD socket: 70ºC / core: 54.5ºC / Motherboard: 31ºC Idle: 35ºC / 18ºC / 31ºC
> 
> (LLC High) FULL LOAD socket: 65ºC / core: 49.8ºC / Motherboard: 32ºC Idle: 35ºC / 18ºC / 31ºC
> 
> So... what do you think?
> 
> Thank you! (and add me to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Definitely too much. Try a pea sized dot. You want as thin as a layer as possible.


----------



## rixar

i was afraid of that too









it seems i will have to change de tim. And i hate uninstalling and installing the massive noctua heatsink. I always did it taking the motherboard out of the case (CM 690 II) because of the fan install process.

so you think that with the half of the quantity in the pic, will i be ok?

by the way, i don´t spread the tim, i use the process of installing the heatsink to spread it by natural pressure. is that ok? or should i spread it with a plastic card o plastified finger?









thanks a lot for your help and your time.


----------



## toyz72

the dot method is fine. just cut the amount down to a little less than half of that


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rixar*
> 
> i was afraid of that too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it seems i will have to change de tim. And i hate uninstalling and installing the massive noctua heatsink. I always did it taking the motherboard out of the case (CM 690 II) because of the fan install process.
> 
> so you think that with the half of the quantity in the pic, will i be ok?
> 
> by the way, i don´t spread the tim, i use the process of installing the heatsink to spread it by natural pressure. is that ok? or should i spread it with a plastic card o plastified finger?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks a lot for your help and your time.


I personally prefer an even coating before putting pressure on. I haven't done any testing on whether that is better or worse. It is just my personal preference.


----------



## ohhgourami

Modded my case over the week. Now you can see my Noctua fans much better


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Modded my case over the week. Now you can see my Noctua fans much better


aw man...sweet looking gpu cooler. your setup looks great


----------



## Milestailsprowe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Modded my case over the week. Now you can see my Noctua fans much better


Does that take up 3 slots or so?


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milestailsprowe*
> 
> Does that take up 3 slots or so?


4 slots


----------



## Milestailsprowe

Damn I looked it up. That thing is HUGE. Kinda wanted one but thats not fitting in a ITX case


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milestailsprowe*
> 
> Damn I looked it up. That thing is HUGE. Kinda wanted one but thats not fitting in a ITX case


Before building this setup, I wanted an ITX rig. I like SFF so I could stack my PC on top of my audio gear. Problem was it couldn't find any cases that would fit both my MK-26 and NH-D14 with a good airflow layout. Then I realized no ITX or mATX board even allows both those coolers as the spacing are off by like 5mm. That test bench allowed full ATX to be very small too. Best part is that airflow is completely unrestricted which means it's perfect.


----------



## KipH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rixar*
> 
> hello...
> 
> Pics from the compound i applied (maybe too much?) and from the inside of my rig:
> 
> So... what do you think?
> 
> Thank you! (and add me to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Hi. I read the other replies. While they are not wrong per say, the 2011 is a larger chip and needs a bit more TIM. While you need rice grain normally, or 1/2 a pea, LGA 2011 needs a full pea, or 2 rice grains









Never spread it, unless you have a direct touch cooler, they are different.
So yes, you used a bit much, but does not look as bad as they make it out.
Still, try it again with less.
Then make sure you tighten down the 4 screws fully before you put the fans back on. Even is the key.

As for fans, hard to say. Do you have the back fan on a slow speed? Try taking it out and putting it on the front. That is a Fractal case right? Which one? I just got the Arc XL, and the air flow is great! Lowered my temps from my old Antec by a lot.


----------



## rixar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> I personally prefer an even coating before putting pressure on. I haven't done any testing on whether that is better or worse. It is just my personal preference.


thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Modded my case over the week. Now you can see my Noctua fans much better


omg! is huge! and aweeeeesome!!! love it!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rixar*
> 
> hello to everyone! my first post in this thread. I´m using a NH U12P SE2 to cool an FX8320 i bought 2 weeks ago.
> 
> i think i have some temps issues. I don´t know if it is because a bad thermal compound application or a bad distribution of my case fans.
> 
> This is what i can tell you:
> 
> Pics from the compound i applied (maybe too much?) and from the inside of my rig:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rear nidec is exhausting heat as the two top nidecs do (the left one is almost invisible because of the noctua.)
> 
> There's also a nidec in the low front of the case, intake mode.
> 
> So these are some examples of my temps:
> 
> all fans at full speed Vcore:1.3V CPU clk: 4.2GHZ Memory: 1600 [email protected]
> 
> Ambiental temp: 26ºC
> 
> After 1h6min of prime95 large fft with no errors or warnings:
> 
> (LLC ultra high) FULL LOAD socket: 70ºC / core: 54.5ºC / Motherboard: 31ºC Idle: 35ºC / 18ºC / 31ºC
> 
> (LLC High) FULL LOAD socket: 65ºC / core: 49.8ºC / Motherboard: 32ºC Idle: 35ºC / 18ºC / 31ºC
> 
> 
> 
> So... what do you think?
> 
> Thank you! (and add me to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Maybe a little too much TIM but that's not what is causing your heating problem.

Looks to me like you need cooler air going to U12P.. maybe try turning your front top fan to intake so it's pushing cool air down in front of U12P intake? Or better yet put that fan in the lower 3x 5.25" optical bays inflowing cool intake air straight to U12P intake fan. You can wedge it in with foam, cardboard, whatever to see if it helps cooling.

NH-U12P is a good mid-range cooler but will be about 6c warmer than the bigger coolers.. and 26c ambient is quite warm.

You might find this helpful. I post this basic but by no means complete tutorial often. It's a work in progress :


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



There is much more to cooling than good cases and good CPU / GPU coolers. Modern GPU's make more heat than CPU... and getting that heat out of the case can be a challenge.

Setting up the case to cool properly is the hardest and most time consuming part of a build... And the most neglected by most builders.

We need at least as much volume of air flowing through the case as the total of CPU and GPU fans flow through their coolers. If we do not have as much air coming into and going out of case as CPU and GPU coolers are passing through and heating up than some of that heated cooler exhaust has to be re-circulated through the coolers. This means the cooler run hotter because the air going through them is hotter.

Cases, especially those with filters, usually benefit from fans with higher static pressure ratings than stock fans... "cooler" fans instead of "case" fans.
Intakes are typically more restricted than exhaust; air filter, more restrictive grill, HDD cage, etc.
I prefer more intake than exhaust. And don't confuse number of fans with amount of airflow... or air*flow* with air*blow*

air*flow* is flowing cool air from intake to component and flowing hot air from component out of case without the hot air mixing with the cool air.

air*blow* is lots of fans blowing air with some of hot air from components mixing with cool air making it warmer resulting in warm air not cooling components as well as the cool air will.

Putting fans in case as intake and/or exhaust is only the first step. These fans only move air in and out of case.

This does not mean heated air is not mixing with cool air.

Nor does it mean cool air is going to where it is needed.

Getting the air to flow inside of case properly is even more important. We still need to manage where the air flows inside the case. We can do this several ways; deflectors, cooler intake fans, exhaust fans, removing vent grills, using fans with higher pressure/airflow, building ducts to or from CPU/GPU cooler, etc.

Using a remote temperature sensor to monitor what air temps are is the key to finding out where the cool air is flowing and knowing heated air is not mixing into it. By monitoring this we can than make changes to get airflow the way we want it.

I monitor the temps with a cheap indoor/outdoor wired remote or terrarium digital thermometer. Twist a piece of stiff insulated wire into the last 8" of sensor lead so you can bend it to position sensor where you want it... like 40mm in front of your GPU cooler/radiator intake.. to see what the air temp going into CPU / GPU cooler is compared to room temp. The closer it is to room temp the better.. Shouldn't be more 5c maximum, 2-3c is what I usually end up with after 30 minutes full load on both CPU and GPU.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Modded my case over the week. Now you can see my Noctua fans much better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [


Looks much nicer than stock with the top cut down.








I assume that's what you did, cut sides even with motherboard tray and move motherboard tray forward for better balance?


----------



## rixar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Maybe a little too much TIM but that's not what is causing your heating problem.
> 
> Looks to me like you need cooler air going to U12P.. maybe try turning your front top fan to intake so it's pushing cool air down in front of U12P intake? Or better yet put that fan in the lower 3x 5.25" optical bays inflowing cool intake air straight to U12P intake fan. You can wedge it in with foam, cardboard, whatever to see if it helps cooling.
> 
> NH-U12P is a good mid-range cooler but will be about 6c warmer than the bigger coolers.. and 26c ambient is quite warm.
> 
> You might find this helpful. I post this basic but by no means complete tutorial often. It's a work in progress :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> There is much more to cooling than good cases and good CPU / GPU coolers. Modern GPU's make more heat than CPU... and getting that heat out of the case can be a challenge.
> 
> Setting up the case to cool properly is the hardest and most time consuming part of a build... And the most neglected by most builders.
> 
> We need at least as much volume of air flowing through the case as the total of CPU and GPU fans flow through their coolers. If we do not have as much air coming into and going out of case as CPU and GPU coolers are passing through and heating up than some of that heated cooler exhaust has to be re-circulated through the coolers. This means the cooler run hotter because the air going through them is hotter.
> 
> Cases, especially those with filters, usually benefit from fans with higher static pressure ratings than stock fans... "cooler" fans instead of "case" fans.
> Intakes are typically more restricted than exhaust; air filter, more restrictive grill, HDD cage, etc.
> I prefer more intake than exhaust. And don't confuse number of fans with amount of airflow... or air*flow* with air*blow*
> 
> air*flow* is flowing cool air from intake to component and flowing hot air from component out of case without the hot air mixing with the cool air.
> 
> air*blow* is lots of fans blowing air with some of hot air from components mixing with cool air making it warmer resulting in warm air not cooling components as well as the cool air will.
> 
> Putting fans in case as intake and/or exhaust is only the first step. These fans only move air in and out of case.
> 
> This does not mean heated air is not mixing with cool air.
> 
> Nor does it mean cool air is going to where it is needed.
> 
> Getting the air to flow inside of case properly is even more important. We still need to manage where the air flows inside the case. We can do this several ways; deflectors, cooler intake fans, exhaust fans, removing vent grills, using fans with higher pressure/airflow, building ducts to or from CPU/GPU cooler, etc.
> 
> Using a remote temperature sensor to monitor what air temps are is the key to finding out where the cool air is flowing and knowing heated air is not mixing into it. By monitoring this we can than make changes to get airflow the way we want it.
> 
> I monitor the temps with a cheap indoor/outdoor wired remote or terrarium digital thermometer. Twist a piece of stiff insulated wire into the last 8" of sensor lead so you can bend it to position sensor where you want it... like 40mm in front of your GPU cooler/radiator intake.. to see what the air temp going into CPU / GPU cooler is compared to room temp. The closer it is to room temp the better.. Shouldn't be more 5c maximum, 2-3c is what I usually end up with after 30 minutes full load on both CPU and GPU.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


woa! thank you for your contribution to solve my problem!









is it possible that the intake noctua fan is blowing warm air to the heatsink? the idea of turning the first top nidec down seduces me.

one of my doubts with this motherboard is the VRM zone. Could be that the extra degrees are coming from there? i think a i have a issue more with the socket temp than with de core temp.

what do you think about this?

(now i'm going to test 4.3 ghz 1.3 Vcore on prime95 large fft







)

cheers!


----------



## ehume




----------



## KipH

I wonder if Pea is good Tim. I know someone tested peanut butter, and mayonnaise (and other stuff). 1/2 a literal pea may work


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rixar*
> 
> woa! thank you for your contribution to solve my problem!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it possible that the intake noctua fan is blowing warm air to the heatsink? the idea of turning the first top nidec down seduces me.
> 
> one of my doubts with this motherboard is the VRM zone. Could be that the extra degrees are coming from there? i think a i have a issue more with the socket temp than with de core temp.
> 
> what do you think about this?
> 
> (now i'm going to test 4.3 ghz 1.3 Vcore on prime95 large fft
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> cheers!


I think your 7950 is about 200w TDP while your CPU is 125w TDP. That means when gaming your GPU is dumping more heat (hot air) into case than CPU is. The U12P is pulling air in from front and pushing heated air out it's back.. where rear exhaust fan and back top fan suck it out of case.

But the 3x 80mm fans on GPU are down below pushing air into it's cooler which hits the PCB (fins on cooler up/down so blows mostly toward mobo and side cover).. and spreads out in all directions.. Most of which has no direct way out of case, so mixes with the cool air coming into case around it that is moving toward the 2x top rear corner exhaust fans (which is also where CPU / VRM zone are). All this air is is several degrees warmer than your room becaust of GPU heat. and that increases your CPU / VRM by the same number of degrees..









I often remove unused PCI slot covers because they can function as an exhaust vent. Sometime cut the strips out and mount an exhaust / intake fan... Side cover fan may be intake or exhaust too... all depends on what cools best.. Like in basic tutorial.









If our GPU is running cooler than it needs to maybe use the side and PCI slot area fans as an exhaust. Very possible the will drop more than GPU increases.


----------



## rixar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think your 7950 is about 200w TDP while your CPU is 125w TDP. That means when gaming your GPU is dumping more heat (hot air) into case than CPU is. The U12P is pulling air in from front and pushing heated air out it's back.. where rear exhaust fan and back top fan suck it out of case.
> 
> But the 3x 80mm fans on GPU are down below pushing air into it's cooler which hits the PCB (fins on cooler up/down so blows mostly toward mobo and side cover).. and spreads out in all directions.. Most of which has no direct way out of case, so mixes with the cool air coming into case around it that is moving toward the 2x top rear corner exhaust fans (which is also where CPU / VRM zone are). All this air is is several degrees warmer than your room becaust of GPU heat. and that increases your CPU / VRM by the same number of degrees..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I often remove unused PCI slot covers because they can function as an exhaust vent. Sometime cut the strips out and mount an exhaust / intake fan... Side cover fan may be intake or exhaust too... all depends on what cools best.. Like in basic tutorial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If our GPU is running cooler than it needs to maybe use the side and PCI slot area fans as an exhaust. Very possible the will drop more than GPU increases.


very useful what you said here, tomorrow i'll try to change the first top nidec to intake position and test. Then i will instal a side fan in both configurations and test too. All the test i've done so far are prime95 based, the gpu stays at 34ºC as top. So i think the side fan effect will be more noticeable playing crysis 3.

Still, i think i should replace the tim and apply half the quantity i put first. But this will be the last i will try.

I'm having a lot of fun.









Thank you!


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks much nicer than stock with the top cut down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I assume that's what you did, cut sides even with motherboard tray and move motherboard tray forward for better balance?


Yup! I don't think I moved the tray too forward as mine came with a rear crutch to help with the balance.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*


it's about time someone showed what a pea size is, thank you.
I always say a drop the size of a grain of rice or less,
but I always read post where others say the paste should be
the size of a pea. Not even!!


----------



## rixar

i didn´t put the size of a pea, and i think that it was so much







, i think that the rice grain size should be better.

by the way, turning back to my temps issues and cooler positions:



i´m going to follow doyll's advice of turning the first top nidec to intake position.

adding to that, what do you think about these two configurations?

1. The *rear* nidec pushing inside the case. The pulling noctua fan as is. The other top nidec exhausting the opposing airflows of these two. Could be a problem the rear nidec at 1800 rpm and the noctua at 1200 rpm? Should be they set to the same/approximate speed?

2. The *rear* nidec pushing inside the case. The pulling noctua is OFF(and i think that i should block/remove it). The other top nidec exhausting the airflow of the nidec and warm air pushed by the noctua fan into the noctua heatsink.

thanks!


----------



## Abula

Anyone have tested the NF-A14 PWM horizontal blowing down? i just tested mulitple and there is like bug noise out of them, that if you place it blowing up it goes away, not sure maybe the bearings dont like that position.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> Anyone have tested the NF-A14 PWM horizontal blowing down? i just tested mulitple and there is like bug noise out of them, that if you place it blowing up it goes away, not sure maybe the bearings dont like that position.


Yes mine is blowing down, it gets noisy at 1200+RPM though

When I tried it without the mesh grille on my case it had no such problem even at 1500RPM.

This suggests that it is noisy at higher RPM due to the grille

I've reason here by others that when they use the NF-F12 /NF-A14 FLX in pull on a filter it has that problem


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Yes mine is blowing down, it gets noisy at 1200+RPM though
> 
> When I tried it without the mesh grille on my case it had no such problem even at 1500RPM.
> 
> This suggests that it is noisy at higher RPM due to the grille
> 
> I've reason here by others that when they use the NF-F12 /NF-A14 FLX in pull on a filter it has that problem


THanks for answering. My case was on the top Fractal Define Arc Midi R2, and yes it has a grill from where they are pulling (i didnt put the top cover), but the thre fans did the same noise and its swurl like a bug niose, but on the front even with fan filters or the bottom that has mesh and fan filter (but fan blowing up), no issues, i tested 7 fans, all of them did the noise blowing down, but not up. Either way, rebuilded on a Define since i coudlnt do what i wanted on Arc Midi wiht the extra fans. Out what i experience not going to use NF-A14 PWM blowing down behind a grill.


----------



## Beemo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragon-Emperor*
> 
> That looks fantastic Beemo!


Thank you very much.
I am planning for at least one more Noctua but depending on what option I go for in the CPU cooling department I may be adding two more.

After a week of use I am still amazed by these fans, yes its true I don't have a lot of fan experience but I don't care these things rock. Its like having a caramel filled case


----------



## M00NIE

Hi sorry if this has been asked but its a huge thread hope you don't mind.

The rubber corner pieces of most of Noctua fans, has anyone tried dyeing them? having no experience with Noctua yet I'm planning to buy some of the black versions when they are released, and possible dye these corner grommets to match a themed build.


----------



## Beemo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> Hi sorry if this has been asked but its a huge thread hope you don't mind.
> 
> The rubber corner pieces of most of Noctua fans, has anyone tried dyeing them? having no experience with Noctua yet I'm planning to buy some of the black versions when they are released, and possible dye these corner grommets to match a themed build.


I seriously doubt it, pretty sure the rubber corner pieces are silicone and once silicone is set/cured it cannot take dye. Silicon is a non absorbent material so dye would just sit on the surface and not penetrate.


----------



## doyll

A quick search of this thread for "dye" found this:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1016941/the-official-noctua-club/860_20#post_19779993


----------



## M00NIE

Thanks, i wonder if something more simple like a sharpie would work. Guess ill do a test run see how it looks.


----------



## Beemo

Sorry but no, I just tried it for you and other then looking bad it rubs off very easy.

http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Tarant/media/20130927_172250_zps63c123d9.jpg.html

http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Tarant/media/20130927_172325_zps2e251e15.jpg.html

edit: I was looking around a little bit and some people have had luck using an alkyd oil primer over silicone caulking. But I don't know how well it works or if the Noctua pieces will hold up to that kind of primer. Latex paint might be another idea but I am not sure how well it would stick in the long run.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> Thanks, i wonder if something more simple like a sharpie would work. Guess ill do a test run see how it looks.


You could always paint them. It make not be permanent, but it'd look a lot better.


----------



## MrSharkington

Does anyone here own a Noctua l9i? would it be a viable cooling option for a 3570k? I'm looking to go ultra SFF with silence particularly in mind. Stock settings to a very mild overclock (4ghz) would be wait I am aiming for.


----------



## M00NIE

I appreciate the time it took to try that out thanks. I guess i can always remove the grommets and use rubber fan mounts for the case fans. The ones mounted to my h220 will be between the case and the rad so can get away with that.

It would look better if i could get the grommets to match, but better to go without then with some cheap matching fan. My build is a z77 mpower, 780 lightning, and some yellow accent in my sleeving. Don't want some cheap fan just because it is has yellow on it.


----------



## equinoxe3d

Nice, did not know there was a Noctua Club here









Here's my rig if you still take entries in the club :

NH-C12P heatsink w/ NF-A15 PWM fan
3x NF-P12


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *equinoxe3d*
> 
> Nice, did not know there was a Noctua Club here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my rig if you still take entries in the club :
> 
> NH-C12P heatsink w/ NF-A15 PWM fan
> 3x NF-P12


alright, that's the same cooler I have, along side my 5 noctua case fans.


----------



## EarlZ

Just ordered the U14S, while I am waiting for my H220 pump RMA to be processed. If the temperature difference between the H220 and U14S is minimal then I will keep the U14S and just sell/return the H220 this is the 3rd time it is having issues.


----------



## jlhawn

I gave up liquid cooling in 2009


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> I gave up liquid cooling in 2009


Hopefully I dont have too, their CS is very great though even if I am not a US/Canada customer they take great lengths to make sure my issues are taken care off.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Hopefully I dont have too, their CS is very great though even if I am not a US/Canada customer they take great lengths to make sure my issues are taken care off.


don't get me wrong, when I had liquid cooling it worked good for me it's just now there are air coolers that perform just as good for me but with less maintenance.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Hopefully I dont have too, their CS is very great though even if I am not a US/Canada customer they take great lengths to make sure my issues are taken care off.
> 
> 
> 
> don't get me wrong, when I had liquid cooling it worked good for me it's just now there are air coolers that perform just as good for me but with less maintenance.
Click to expand...

True, thats what I've read about. I'll see how good the temps on the U14S is with GT-AP15's in push and pull.


----------



## feartheturtle

If anyone is interested in a gently used Noctua NH-U14S w/Extra NF-A15 PWM fan for push/pull configuration, please PM me. I accept PayPal and can ship to anywhere (must be PayPal Verified) in the Continental US (48 States). Will include original box and accessories. Price is $75 shipped.


----------



## EarlZ

Its actually surprising that the U14S only losses to about 4-6c difference from a H220.


----------



## bbond007

I have 2 Noctua NF-F12 PWM on a cooler master seidon 120xl closed-loop cooler. You can only see one in the pic as one is obscured by the case









The seidon 120xl was an incredible price after rebate, so even after adding the fans the total price is still around what I would have spent for something like the Noctua NH-D14 which I was also considering.

I was trying to reuse this old case that has been sitting in storage for over 10 years(Coolermaster ACT 210). I really like the looks of the case, but I guess at the time 2 x 80mm fans was all you needed, but that was way before multi-core CPUs. I have it blowing the heat up and out of the case and it works great.

I regret not being able to mount the larger vent 120mm fan exactly centered but other factors such as the wires for the PS, and the position of the original 80mm vent determined its location.


----------



## rievhardt

Noctua NH-U12S on i5-2400 (stock)

Old temp (stock fan) 42-44C IDLE / 68C LOADED BF3/BF4

are temps ok? it's my first time installing an HSF. that screw with the spring is quite a pain...took me 3 tries...

Pics later


----------



## bandots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rievhardt*
> 
> 
> 
> Noctua NH-U12S on i5-2400 (stock)
> 
> Old temp (stock fan) 42-44C IDLE / 68C LOADED BF3/BF4
> 
> are temps ok? it's my first time installing an HSF. that screw with the spring is quite a pain...took me 3 tries...
> 
> Pics later


horizontal fan position , make bearing easily dusty change the position to vertical , horizon hsf not only make easily dust also the pressure of fan more weak


----------



## rievhardt

^ my case is an nzxt vulcan. it has a bulged mesh but the heatpipes are hitting where the mesh is attached that's why vertical mount isn't possible...thanks for the tip though


----------



## protzman

not sure how in the loop anyone is but would anyone happen to know when the nh-14d update is coming out revealed @ computex this june?


----------



## happy hopping

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sethris225*
> 
> Count me in!
> 
> 5 x Noctua NF-A14 FLXs and
> 1 x Noctua NF-F12 PWM
> 
> But in case you didn't believe me;
> 
> 
> Yeah, I know, you can't see the other four NF-A14s, but believe me they're on the top and bottom of the Phantom 820.
> More pics in my sig.


On your phantom 820, what's the CPU cooler you use? are you using DH-14, if so, can you close the case w/ the side 200mm fan being there?


----------



## Jubijub

New rig, new Noctua gear :



http://imgur.com/md9H8kt



CPU cooler : Noctua NH-U12P SE2
Case coolers :
- Rear : 1x Noctua NF-A14 PWM - extraction
- Top : 2x Noctua NF-A14 PWM - intake
- front : 3x Noctua NF-S12B ULN - intake


----------



## mironccr345

Looking good. What case are you rocking?


----------



## Jubijub

Corsair Carbide 540 Air : very roomy


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Corsair Carbide 540 Air : very roomy


Such a wonderful case! Great airflow for aircooling and still a ton of support for watercooling, too!


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> New rig, new Noctua gear :
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/md9H8kt
> 
> 
> 
> CPU cooler : Noctua NH-U12P SE2
> Case coolers :
> - Rear : 1x Noctua NF-A14 PWM - extraction
> - Top : 2x Noctua NF-A14 PWM - intake
> - front : 3x Noctua NF-S12B ULN - intake


Looks great i just picked up a bunch of fans too








How come u didnt use all of the rubber grommets on the top fan!?


----------



## Jubijub

Well I didn't use them for the following reasons :
- my understanding is that they help reduce vibrations when the fan is screwed against something hard (the case, a big radiator, etc...), which is not the case for the part facing downward
- they are not so well attached to the fan, I was afraid they would CPU rad/fans below...and I don't think they bring a huge cosmetic value









But I used them to damp vibration for the 3 140mm fans, and the fans themselves are tied using the rubber thingy, not the screws (except the 3 120mm for which it's impossible to pull the rubber thingy on the side near the case "wall", so I had to use screws at these points.


----------



## protzman

Dang if you live in the US lower 48 would you mind mailing me one and i could send you a buck or 2 via paypal? I mean if ya popped it in an envelope it would be less thatn 50 cents







I lost one of mine and I have OCD so its killing me lol! ( well that is if it were for a 120mm)

let me know i live in Virginia!


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Dang if you live in the US lower 48 would you mind mailing me one and i could send you a buck or 2 via paypal? I mean if ya popped it in an envelope it would be less thatn 50 cents
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I lost one of mine and I have OCD so its killing me lol! ( well that is if it were for a 120mm)
> 
> let me know i live in Virginia!


so your looking for the rubber corner pads for the Noctua fans yes??
if so I have 8 of them from a warranty from Noctua as they had me break a fan blade off
a defective fan and send them a pic instead of shipping the bad fan all the way to them,
so before I tossed the bad fan I took the rubber pads off.
mine are off the noctua 120mm fan.


----------



## protzman

hey pm responded! Thanks alot for that +1 rep!


----------



## Dragon-Emperor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> New rig, new Noctua gear :
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/md9H8kt
> 
> 
> 
> CPU cooler : Noctua NH-U12P SE2
> Case coolers :
> - Rear : 1x Noctua NF-A14 PWM - extraction
> - Top : 2x Noctua NF-A14 PWM - intake
> - front : 3x Noctua NF-S12B ULN - intake


Very cool! (pun intended)

I also have a Carbide 540 and was intending to do the same as you, A14 PWMs in the back and on the top, however I am stuck between 2x A14 PWMs in front, or 3xF12 PWMs in front,
My understanding is that while the s-series is intended as a case fan due to high airflow, the grill+filter in the front of the Carbide 540 would breathe better with higher static pressure fans (like the A14 or F12).
I could well be wrong though.
I'm leaning towards 2xA14s to save money though hahaha.
Great to see how the case looks full of Noctuas though:thumb:


----------



## Jubijub

I wouldn't know... I took 3x120 to have even cooling on all components, as I plan to add a second 780 and possibly OC mildly the whole thing


----------



## WeiZhong

Hey guys, guess this is the best place to post this. I only have 150mm clearance for my case. So that means either the u9b or the l12. Which do you guys think is better?


----------



## FazzoMetal

Here a first wallpaper about my U14S









Preview


Full Size

Noctua Wallpaper.JPG 2170k .JPG file


----------



## animal0307

Finally after way too long I have gotten around to updating the Club list. I would like to please remind everyone to make sure they post a list of there fans/coolers along with your pictures.

Also if you get the chance please your entry in the list for accuracy.


----------



## jlhawn

well I can't find my name on the list so here it is again.

NF-P14 FLX 140mm X2
NF-B9 -1600 92mm x1
NF-F12 PWM 120mm x2
NF-P12 PWM 120mm x1
NH-C12P SE14 140mm CPU Cooler.


----------



## animal0307

You were in there twice, but now consolidated and up to date.


----------



## jameyscott

Well, I switched to full water cooling and am using AP-15s now. However, for the wifey's rig, I'll be back here because she's taking over my Corsair H110 with Noctua A14 PWMs.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> You were in there twice, but now consolidated and up to date.


oops. thank you.


----------



## protzman

here are some upsidedown pics of mine







idk why my camera does this
I have 7 NF-S12A FLX's


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> here are some upsidedown pics of mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> idk why my camera does this
> I have 7 NF-S12A FLX's
> 
> quote]
> 
> looks good but the upside down pics are screwing with me eyeballs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> don't know why my reply is in the gray quote box.


----------



## fredgagne79

i'm finaly all Noctua with my PC; just receive & install the last fan missing (NF-S12A WPM)!









here's the list:

2x NF-F12 PWM on my Corsair H100i
2x NF-A14 PWM as intake
1x NF-S12A PWM as outake

and here's somme pics:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## bandots

noctua is not only the best cooler in the world for quietness but also had the BEST tech support in the world


----------



## Dragon-Emperor

Hi guys, I'm about to pull the rigger on some fans tonight.

I'm thinking... 4x NF-A14 PWM for front and top, and 1x NF-S12A PWM for the rear exhaust.
Does that sound good?

Also, which of these 2 configurations would you do? 2 exhaust, or 1 exhaust?




SEIG NOCTUA!


----------



## jameyscott

Bottom pic for sure. You don't want the exhausting heat from the heatsink being interfered with the airflow coming down on it.


----------



## QuietGamer

Hi Everyone,

Please add me









My Noctua Build. I named it WOODY

Full Specs can be found here:

http://pcpartpicker.com/b/GtB


----------



## Dragon-Emperor

Lookin good, Silentgamer!

Here's my new loot in my Corsair Carbide 540~



Here's mine:
4x NF-A14's
1x NF-F12's









So quiet with them all hooked up to a single 8way PWM splitter connecting to CPU_OPT


----------



## QuietGamer

Thanks Bro... I really like those 540's your build is in.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dragon-Emperor*
> 
> Lookin good, Silentgamer!
> 
> Here's my new loot in my Corsair Carbide 540~
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's mine:
> 4x NF-A14's
> 1x NF-F12's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So quiet with them all hooked up to a single 8way PWM splitter connecting to CPU_OPT*


PWM case fan control is the way forward.


----------



## Oubadah

..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oubadah*
> 
> Somebody recommend a good splitter.


Assuming you are referring to PWM splitter with PSU power connection than Swiftech 8-way hub
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html

and Gelid PWM splitter. 1x Gelid = 4x fans, 2x splitters = 7x fans, & 3x splitter = 10x fans.
http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=11&id=63


----------



## ohhgourami

That Swifttech one is nice...


----------



## MrSharkington

Hi guys, Christmas is almost only a month a way and I have been considering the NH-L9i cooler for my 3570k. I have been wanting something small and quiet as the L9i ticks all those boxes. I'm going to be leaving my CPU at stock with it and I was just curious if the temperatures are reasonable? I'm not expecting anything like an NH-D14's performance, but will it be able to handle my i5? cheers.


----------



## jameyscott

It'll handle your i5 at stock just fine. You should even be able to get a mild overclock with it.


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> It'll handle your i5 at stock just fine. You should even be able to get a mild overclock with it.


Oh fantastic! I look forward to posting pics when I get it


----------



## Jflisk

Can you add me to the club to Thanks.


----------



## eBombzor

F12 vs P12 for the front fan on the R4 (cooling HDD and SSD)?

I wish I could use a 140mm fan but the R4 has a peg-mounting mechanism for 140mm fans on the front.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> F12 vs P12 for the front fan on the R4 (cooling HDD and SSD)?
> 
> I wish I could use a 140mm fan but the R4 has a peg-mounting mechanism for 140mm fans on the front.


F12, it'll be highly choked up there.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> F12 vs P12 for the front fan on the R4 (cooling HDD and SSD)?
> 
> I wish I could use a 140mm fan but the R4 has a peg-mounting mechanism for 140mm fans on the front.


Why can't you use a 140mm fan? Like the NF-A14 PWM, NF-A14 FLX or NF-A14 ULN. Many Fractal Design Define R4 owners have done it. Forum users Abula, Sp33d Junki3, Beemo, etc. are using them. I suggest the PWM varients on a good PWM splitter with PSU power like Swiftech 8-way or Gelid 4-way and use CPU fan header PWM signal to control them the same as your cooler fans.
=838683&advanced=1]http://www.overclock.net/newsearch/?search=nf-a14+pwm&resultSortingPreference=recency&byuser=&output=posts&sdate=0&newer=1&type=all&containingthread[0]=838683&advanced=1


----------



## ThumperSD

does the NH-D14 ever go on sale?


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*
> 
> does the NH-D14 ever go on sale?


Yes, I've seen it drop to ~$60.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Why can't you use a 140mm fan? Like the NF-A14 PWM, NF-A14 FLX or NF-A14 ULN. Many Fractal Design Define R4 owners have done it. Forum users Abula, Sp33d Junki3, Beemo, etc. are using them. I suggest the PWM varients on a good PWM splitter with PSU power like Swiftech 8-way or Gelid 4-way and use CPU fan header PWM signal to control them the same as your cooler fans.
> =838683&advanced=1]http://www.overclock.net/newsearch/?search=nf-a14+pwm&resultSortingPreference=recency&byuser=&output=posts&sdate=0&newer=1&type=all&containingthread[0]=838683&advanced=1


Ok, how do you mount 140mm fans on the front?


----------



## greatlifeyoo

that right,that we are not supposed to use the "Unofficial" tag, as everything is unofficial unless stated otherwise.thanks


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Ok, how do you mount 140mm fans on the front?


The same way the stock 140mm fans are mounted.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Ok, how do you mount 140mm fans on the front?


Just as the stock fractal 140 come from factory, just push them until the clip engages, here is a pic of twin NF-A14 PWM (should be the same for the FLX/ULN) installed on the front of my Define R4.


----------



## asxx

Cant wait for it









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## happy hopping

do they support SE 2011 configuration? And if your motherboard has 2 x LGA 2011 (2 x CPU) is there actual space to squeeze 2 side by side?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asxx*
> 
> Cant wait for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Cooler Master just made something like it and it's . . .meh.


----------



## protzman

thats why. its coolermaster...


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> thats why. its coolermaster...


Hey now! The Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO is an amazing cooler for the price. That's all I'd buy from them in the way of Heatsinks, though. Obviously for budget builds or something that is just going to stay at stock.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Hey now! The Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO is an amazing cooler for the price. That's all I'd buy from them in the way of Heatsinks, though. Obviously for budget builds or something that is just going to stay at stock.


No. Hyper 212 Evo is an okay cooler for a fairly low price. It's not bad, but it certainly isn't amazing.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No. Hyper 212 Evo is an okay cooler for a fairly low price. It's not bad, but it certainly isn't amazing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Hey now! The Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO is an *amazing cooler for the price*. That's all I'd buy from them in the way of Heatsinks, though. Obviously for budget builds or something that is just going to stay at stock.


For a 30 buck investment, depending on the CPU you can go over 500Mhz over. That's a nice bump to performance depending on the application. It's an amazing cooler for the price. There's a very good reason it is considered one of the best budget coolers.

EDIT: verb tense


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> For a 30 buck investment, depending on the CPU you can go over 500Mhz over. That's a nice bump to performance depending on the application. It's an amazing cooler for the price. There's a very good reason it is *considered one of the best budget coolers*.
> 
> EDIT: verb tense


Key words are "one of " and "budget coolers". There are several just as good and just as cheap. And that is my point. So if it's "amazing buget cooler" than so are lots of others just as "amazing" Noctua is much better quality and better performance.. better warranty, better mount, lifetime mount upgrades free. To me that's worth the difference.

You are in Noctua country here. If you want to talk up 212's go over to their thread.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Key words are "one of " and "budget coolers". There are several just as good and just as cheap. And that is my point. So if it's "amazing buget cooler" than so are lots of others just as "amazing" Noctua is much better quality and better performance.. better warranty, better mount, lifetime mount upgrades free. To me that's worth the difference.
> 
> You are in Noctua country here. If you want to talk up 212's go over to their thread.


I didn't mean to stir anything up. I'm just saying it isn't a bad cooler and someone saying that because "It's coolermaster" gives an impression that all their stuff is crap. Which, all of their "higher end" air cooling is really crap and can't hold a candle to anything Noctua offers. If I were to go air cooling on a build and wanted performance and quietness, I'd have a Noctua D14 delivered to my door step. I actually convinced a friend to get a D14 because of how awesome it is and he never plans on upgrading to a custom loop.
My next build I'll be using my Corsair H110 with Noctua A14 PWMs. Thankfully Noctua came to the rescue with those fans. Finding a 140mm fan for a radiator is like finding the holy grail. So, I guess the A14 PWMs are the holy grail?


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Yes, I've seen it drop to ~$60.


Do you know when and where can I get it for sale?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*
> 
> Do you know when and where can I get it for sale?


I got my D14 for $39.99 at NCIX last Black Friday (it's been a year already, wow.) It was $59.99 but I used a $20 off coupon so yeah, I got a great deal. It will go on sale on Black Friday (if you are in the US of course.)


----------



## ThumperSD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I got my D14 for $39.99 at NCIX last Black Friday (it's been a year already, wow.) It was $59.99 but I used a $20 off coupon so yeah, I got a great deal. It will go on sale on Black Friday (if you are in the US of course.)


Thanks, I hope it goes on sale for Black Friday


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*
> 
> Thanks, I hope it goes on sale for Black Friday


Anytime. I'd keep an eye on NCIX as they do have deals on Noctua items a lot. Maybe they'll even do the $20 refer a friend again. I love this cooler so much though haha. When I finally go watercoolong I'll make sure it gets a nice home to live in (probably just give it to my dad..







)


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*
> 
> Do you know when and where can I get it for sale?


Do _you_ know when and where?


----------



## GeneO

Say, add me, just got 2 x NF-F12 PWM.


----------



## ThumperSD

Got my NH-D14 for $60 + shipping. Wished it was a little cheaper, considering the H110 is on sale today for the same price with shipping. I heard the H110 was hard to fit into a Fractal R4 though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*
> 
> Got my NH-D14 for $60 + shipping. Wished it was a little cheaper, considering the H110 is on sale today for the same price with shipping. I heard the H110 was hard to fit into a Fractal R4 though.


NH-D14 will last at least twice as long as H110.. and than only need new fans.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*
> 
> Got my NH-D14 for $60 + shipping. Wished it was a little cheaper, considering the H110 is on sale today for the same price with shipping. I heard the H110 was hard to fit into a Fractal R4 though.


Nice! Where'd you buy it from?


----------



## eBombzor

Hey guys I need help deciding which Noctua fan to buy.

I can get a AF15 twin pack for $37 or two separate AF14 ULN for $36 on Amazon.

But here's the thing, I only want to buy one pack or the other because buying two different fans separately is way more expensive.

I can get the AF15s for the bottom intake and the rear exhaust while my 2 stock Fractal fans are in the front

or

I can use one of the AF14s on the bottom intake and another on one of the front fans (in front of the HDD) while one of my stock fans fills the other placement on the front and the other for the rear exhaust.

Which configuration will yield the best cooling performance in general? Also, does the AF14 ULN fan push a lot of air even though it's ULN?

Noise isn't THAT much of a concern but I have it in mind.

Thanks.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Hey guys I need help deciding which Noctua fan to buy.
> 
> I can get a AF15 twin pack for $37 or two separate AF14 ULN for $36 on Amazon.
> 
> But here's the thing, I only want to buy one pack or the other because buying two different fans separately is way more expensive.
> 
> I can get the AF15s for the bottom intake and the rear exhaust while my 2 stock Fractal fans are in the front
> 
> or
> 
> I can use one of the AF14s on the bottom intake and another on one of the front fans (in front of the HDD) while one of my stock fans fills the other placement on the front and the other for the rear exhaust.
> 
> Which configuration will yield the best cooling performance in general? Also, does the AF14 ULN fan push a lot of air even though it's ULN?
> 
> Noise isn't THAT much of a concern but I have it in mind.
> 
> Thanks.


Can you get PWM ones instead and use mobo headers to control the speed?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Hey guys I need help deciding which Noctua fan to buy.
> 
> I can get a AF15 twin pack for $37 or two separate AF14 ULN for $36 on Amazon.
> 
> But here's the thing, I only want to buy one pack or the other because buying two different fans separately is way more expensive.
> 
> I can get the AF15s for the bottom intake and the rear exhaust while my 2 stock Fractal fans are in the front
> 
> or
> 
> I can use one of the AF14s on the bottom intake and another on one of the front fans (in front of the HDD) while one of my stock fans fills the other placement on the front and the other for the rear exhaust.
> 
> Which configuration will yield the best cooling performance in general? Also, does the AF14 ULN fan push a lot of air even though it's ULN?
> 
> Noise isn't THAT much of a concern but I have it in mind.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you get PWM ones instead and use mobo headers to control the speed?
Click to expand...

Indeed
I suggest SP140 PWM (or get a better fan for less money) and use PWM control with PWM splitter using CPU fan header PWM signal and PSU power. Front will have much better airflow with cooler fans instead of case fans.


----------



## QuietGamer

For even better airflow and lower noise May I suggest this Mod.

Cutting the supports with a Dremel opens up the fan blade area significantly.

Why spend the money and still have turbulence noise and possibly reduced airflow.

.

My2 cents. YMMV


----------



## doyll

Define R4 has no grill behind fan.. only a thin filter on front of mount, grille in front behind case door with vents on sides adn bottom.


Removing HDD cages greatly improves airflow.


----------



## QuietGamer

Oh, Gottcha

You may have said that was the case you are using in a earlier post.

I have to stop trying to think while still on my 1'st cup of coffee.







.


----------



## doyll

Better have another cup on me.... Because it's eBombzor who posted about the Define R4, not me.
















My Define R2 has CPU PWM signal controlled TY-140 intake fans (2x front &1x bottom); w/ 2x bottom & back vent grilles removed;. & castor base 2/ 45mm clearance for better airflow. Could open front door & grilles for too if needed.. but it's not









Will be SWMBO's case soon as I move into my Phanteks Enthoo Primo.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Hey guys I need help deciding which Noctua fan to buy.
> 
> I can get a AF15 twin pack for $37 or two separate AF14 ULN for $36 on Amazon.
> 
> But here's the thing, I only want to buy one pack or the other because buying two different fans separately is way more expensive.
> 
> I can get the AF15s for the bottom intake and the rear exhaust while my 2 stock Fractal fans are in the front
> 
> or
> 
> I can use one of the AF14s on the bottom intake and another on one of the front fans (in front of the HDD) while one of my stock fans fills the other placement on the front and the other for the rear exhaust.
> 
> Which configuration will yield the best cooling performance in general? Also, does the AF14 ULN fan push a lot of air even though it's ULN?
> 
> Noise isn't THAT much of a concern but I have it in mind.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you get PWM ones instead and use mobo headers to control the speed?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Indeed
> I suggest SP140 PWM (or get a better fan for less money) and use PWM control with PWM splitter using CPU fan header PWM signal and PSU power. Front will have much better airflow with cooler fans instead of case fans.
Click to expand...

SP140 PWM? What fan is that?

Two NF-A15's for $36-37? A bargain. If you go that route, I would recommend the standard over the ULN. I reviewed the A-series here. PWM if you can get them.

Where are A15's available 2 for $36?


----------



## ehume

I found a NF-A15 PWM 2-pack for $37.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> SP140 PWM? What fan is that?










Water on the brain.







There is no SP140 PWM, but it would be a Corsair fan... one they don't even make and even if they did I probably wouldn't recommend anyway.









But there will be XF140 and XT140 by CRYORIG soon on their new R1 cooler.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water on the brain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no SP140 PWM, but it would be a Corsair fan... one they don't even make and even if they did I probably wouldn't recommend anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But there will be XF140 and XT140 by CRYORIG soon on their new R1 cooler.


Dat A14 PWM doh.


----------



## doyll

Indeed
NF-A14 PWM fit nicely in R4


----------



## jameyscott

Pretty much the best 140MM fan you can buy for a rad, too. I absolutely loved them on my H110. Can't wait to get that matx LAN build going I can put those fans to some use!


----------



## caenlen

i have 2 noctua 140mm fans in push/pull on nh-d14 - worth it to add another?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> SP140 PWM? What fan is that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water on the brain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no SP140 PWM, but it would be a Corsair fan... one they don't even make and even if they did I probably wouldn't recommend anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But there will be XF140 and XT140 by CRYORIG soon on their new R1 cooler.
Click to expand...

Just to be clear, what fan were you recommending? Please say the manufacturer so we can be . . . clear.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> i have 2 noctua 140mm fans in push/pull on nh-d14 - worth it to add another?


No. Look at item 4 in my sig. One of the chapters cover 2 vs 3 fans. 3 fans only really help when you are using low output fans. Think Noctua ULN fans using their ULNA's. That will get you a few degrees, depending on how low the output is.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed
> I suggest SP140 PWM (or get a better fan for less money) and use PWM control with PWM splitter using CPU fan header PWM signal and PSU power. Front will have much better airflow with cooler fans instead of case fans.


Yea I was planning to buy one of those Swiftech PWM splitters and do exactly that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuietGamer*
> 
> For even better airflow and lower noise May I suggest this Mod.
> 
> Cutting the supports with a Dremel opens up the fan blade area significantly.
> 
> Why spend the money and still have turbulence noise and possibly reduced airflow.
> 
> .
> 
> My2 cents. YMMV


I would love to do that but unfortunately my modding tools are currently unavailable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> SP140 PWM? What fan is that?
> 
> Two NF-A15's for $36-37? A bargain. If you go that route, I would recommend the standard over the ULN. I reviewed the A-series here. PWM if you can get them.
> 
> Where are A15's available 2 for $36?


Here ya go.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AED7X6W/ref=pd_aw_sbs_4?pi=SY115

Will the ULN fans still provide adequate airflow? 800 RPM is pretty slow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> SP140 PWM? What fan is that?


what fan were you recommending? Please say the manufacturer so we can be . . . clear.
[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed
> NF-A14 PWM fit nicely in R4


I believe the colors make it obvious.. if not google "nf-a14 pwm"


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Just to be clear, what fan were you recommending? Please say the manufacturer so we can be . . . clear.
> 
> No. Look at item 4 in my sig. One of the chapters cover 2 vs 3 fas. # fans only really help when you are using low output fans. Think Noctua ULN fans using their ULNA's. That will get you a few degrees, depending on how low the output is.


ty ehume


----------



## MrSharkington

Hey guys, would running two NF-F12's with low noise adapters on a single fan header with the splitter that came with the fan be okay? My motherboard is a P8Z77-I deluxe.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Hey guys, would running two NF-F12's with low noise adapters on a single fan header with the splitter that came with the fan be okay? My motherboard is a P8Z77-I deluxe.


Yup, just fine. Ran two A14 PWMs on a single fan header no LNA.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Hey guys, would running two NF-F12's with low noise adapters on a single fan header with the splitter that came with the fan be okay? My motherboard is a P8Z77-I deluxe.


Yup. I am running 2 F12s of a single header. These fans require very low power compared to other fans so it is OK.


----------



## eBombzor

Can a AF15 mount onto the rear exhaust of the R4?


----------



## ehume

800 RPM is indeed slow. That's why I recommend the PWM version, when you can get it.

Here's a link to an NF-A15 PWM 2-pack for $37.


----------



## ehume

double post


----------



## Milestailsprowe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> 800 RPM is indeed slow. That's why I recommend the PWM version, when you can get it.
> 
> Here's a link to an NF-A15 PWM 2-pack for $37.


Thanks. I needed two of them.


----------



## eBombzor

Look what I just found:

http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=64540&vpn=NH-D14%20SE2011&manufacture=Noctua&promoid=1029


----------



## MrSharkington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> Yup. I am running 2 F12s of a single header. These fans require very low power compared to other fans so it is OK.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Yup, just fine. Ran two A14 PWMs on a single fan header no LNA.


Thanks guys!


----------



## Theroty

I am replacing my Nh-d14 with a Swiftech H220. I will no longer have use for it when it arrives. I have a CM 212+ for backup if something happens.

I decided to do this because the NH-d14 leaves me no room at all in my case. This wasn't a problem with my Antec 1200 but has became more of an issue with the Storm Scout 2. The Noctua performs wonderfully!


----------



## MrSharkington

Updating my entry to the members list







I just installed a noctua nh - l9i and I'm loving it so far!


----------



## eBombzor

Aw yea look what arrived today


----------



## Haelous

Currently have a NH-D14 and am going to be moving my systems into Corsair 750Ds.

Twin NF-A14 in the front seems good, but I'm unsure about top/rear/cooler. Maybe single NF-A15 on the cooler, NF-A15 exhaust, and then a single NF-A14/15 in the center top to get PWM everywhere? Otherwise, maybe I'll leave the cooler stock and just stick an NF-A14 in the rear.

Slightly concerned about whether a NF-A15 will mount in the rear 140mm fan placement due to the extra 10mm.

Zero 3.5" in the system with GPUs, and 6 in the system without GPUs.


----------



## happy hopping

I bought 4 x 140 mm chasis fan and 2 x LGA 2011 CPU cooler. I just have 2 quick questions:

1) Right now, the 4 screws are mounted on all 4 corner of ea. chassis fan. If I replace those 4 screws w/ the 4 rubber mount, what do I gain? As the 4 corner holes are already rubber inside, so there shouldn't be any vibration noise at all

2) In the CPU cooler, where do you put that metal sticker of noctua?


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haelous*
> 
> Currently have a NH-D14 and am going to be moving my systems into Corsair 750Ds.
> 
> Twin NF-A14 in the front seems good, but I'm unsure about top/rear/cooler. Maybe single NF-A15 on the cooler, NF-A15 exhaust, and then a single NF-A14/15 in the center top to get PWM everywhere? Otherwise, maybe I'll leave the cooler stock and just stick an NF-A14 in the rear.
> 
> Slightly concerned about whether a NF-A15 will mount in the rear 140mm fan placement due to the extra 10mm.
> 
> Zero 3.5" in the system with GPUs, and 6 in the system without GPUs.


Two NF-A14 in front is a good option, NF-A15 as exhaust probably isn't as good as NF-A15 on CPU cooler. The 750D case fits 140mm fans , it comes with the AF140L or some AF140 lookalike.

The top fan is a odd bit, you need to make sure that if you use it as a top intake that the cold air blows in front of the intake for the CPU cooler. Otherwise you're better off with a top rear fan as exhaust, especially since the dust filter out of the box is more like a screen. I've found the NF-A14 to be a bit noisy at 1200+RPM as top intake on hex mesh.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happy hopping*
> 
> I bought 4 x 140 mm chasis fan and 2 x LGA 2011 CPU cooler. I just have 2 quick questions:
> 
> 1) Right now, the 4 screws are mounted on all 4 corner of ea. chassis fan. If I replace those 4 screws w/ the 4 rubber mount, what do I gain? As the 4 corner holes are already rubber inside, so there shouldn't be any vibration noise at all
> 
> 2) In the CPU cooler, where do you put that metal sticker of noctua?


The rubber screws are so that the case doesn't absorb any vibrations from the screws.

The metal sticker / badge is for your case not the CPU cooler : see "Noctua Metal Case-Badge" (http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=41&lng=en&set=1)


----------



## happy hopping

For the 4 x NLF 140 mm sys. fan that I have, as we all know, they are 3 pin. My motherboard c/w 4 fan plug in, 2 front, and 2 back. But they are 4 pin, in which I assume the 4th pin is PWM. So can we connect our Noctua 3 pin fans to the motherboard's 4 pin connectors?

Has any1 done it?


----------



## jameyscott

Yes, you can connect any 3 pin fan to a 4 pin connection. All of those besides the cpu and cpu opt aren't pwm anyway.


----------



## defaulticus

hello guys. I bought 4 piece of nf-f12 fans for my h100i cooler. I used them like 1 month. After that when i change thermal compound, i realized some yellow stain around fans. I have those stains in all 4 fans and it is so certain that it comes from the center of fans. However, i use them with no issue. Is that something that i need to rma all the fans?. Because of horizontal position of fans it happens like this?. 3 nf-a14 that are in vertical position have no issue like that yellow stain. Any opinion guys?

simillar issue at below however mine is more spreaded
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/troubleshooting/57027-odd-yellow-blobs-noctua-nh-d14-fans.html


----------



## doyll

Send Noctua a pic of the spots with explanation and see what they say. It is oil leaking out of the bearing. Maybe there was a little to much put in originally and now it will stop making spots.
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=kontakt&lng=en


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defaulticus*
> 
> hello guys. I bought 4 piece of nf-f12 fans for my h100i cooler. I used them like 1 month. After that when i change thermal compound, i realized some yellow stain around fans. I have those stains in all 4 fans and it is so certain that it comes from the center of fans. However, i use them with no issue. Is that something that i need to rma all the fans?. Because of horizontal position of fans it happens like this?. 3 nf-a14 that are in vertical position have no issue like that yellow stain. Any opinion guys?
> 
> simillar issue at below however mine is more spreaded
> http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/troubleshooting/57027-odd-yellow-blobs-noctua-nh-d14-fans.html


Just wipe it off and after awhile they will not show up anymore, Noctua had a incident where too much oil was in the fan bearing in a batch of fans.
2 of my 7 Noctua fans had this and Noctua told me what happened and said it will go away but if not they would send me new fans. it was only on a batch of 120mm fans.
the oil on mine did not show up anymore after I cleaned them and it has been about 8 months now.


----------



## defaulticus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> Just wipe it off and after awhile they will not show up anymore, Noctua had a incident where too much oil was in the fan bearing in a batch of fans.
> 2 of my 7 Noctua fans had this and Noctua told me what happened and said it will go away but if not they would send me new fans. it was only on a batch of 120mm fans.
> the oil on mine did not show up anymore after I cleaned them and it has been about 8 months now.


thank you for the info. I will check it whether it shows up or not. It is good to hear that i dont need to rma all the fans


----------



## mistercoffee1

Add me to the Noctua club:
NH-U14S, 2 x NF-P12 Intake, NF-A14 exhaust.


----------



## Dyaems

Hey guys,

I am planning to buy a Noctua C14 and just want to ask if anyone know if a C14 wont have pcie issues on a gigabyte B75N ITX motherboard with a graphics card without backplate installed? I feel like replacing my HR02 macho for the looks.

I cant seem to find the dimensions between the cpu base plate (not sure what its called) and the tip of the heatpipe since the gigabyte B75N ITX only has 23.5mm of clearance.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## cypto

Can anyone tell me if the fan blades on the PWM NF-A14 are easily removable by removing the magnet out the back or is it a glued/sealed unit?

Looking to dye the out casing of the fans to match my rig. Cheers.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cypto*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if the fan blades on the PWM NF-A14 are easily removable by removing the magnet out the back or is it a glued/sealed unit?
> 
> Looking to dye the out casing of the fans to match my rig. Cheers.


I would not try it.

People have had issues with NF-F12 and this uses the "metal bearing shell" and "SSO2" bearing as well

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=nf_f12_metal_bearing_shell


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cypto*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if the fan blades on the PWM NF-A14 are easily removable by removing the magnet out the back or is it a glued/sealed unit?
> 
> Looking to dye the out casing of the fans to match my rig. Cheers.


I wouldnt do it either, if you dont like the colors of noctua, check Phanteks 140mm Case/Radiator Cooling Fan (PH-F140XP_BK), the fan itself is pretty good, i would say its even made in a ver similar facility than noctuas, the sleeving is identicial, and the included accesories are practically the same. The fan has higher min rpms than NF-A14 PWM (around 200rpm) the Phantek is around 600rpm on pwm, on the top rpms the phantek is around 1200rpm while the noctua is 1500rpms, but overall the quality of the fan is very similar, and defently looks much better for some.


----------



## cypto

Thanks for the input guys, think I will avoid it. Already ordered the noctua's on the great performance and sound levels.

Mostly just curious if it was possible.

If it was a case of removing the sticker, to remove the blades I would consider it however knowing it isn't possible I am willing to live with the colors.

The Phanteks have flew under my radar tho, so useful to know of other great performing fans with a workable color scheme.


----------



## taem

I love my D14 but I'm thinking of switching to a U14S for the smaller size. Some questions, does the U14s benefit from a second fan, and where can I buy the higher rpm A15 that comes with the cooler? Also, can I fit TY 14x fans on the U14S, and if so will the prolimatech clips work? Actually I don't even know what kind of clips come with the U14s, iirc the pix I've seen show different clips than the D14.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haelous*
> 
> Slightly concerned about whether a NF-A15 will mount in the rear 140mm fan placement due to the extra 10mm.


Fits fine, you just have to turn it so long axis is vertical. Fits on top too, if you use the 140mm->120mm metal tab converters that come with the NF-P14 retail boxes. I posted a pic of it in the Fractal Design case board. I notice no difference whatsoever between the A15 and the A14 or P14 as an exhaust fan though. And maybe it's just the units I have, but the A15 seems to make a clicking noise in voltage regulation mode. I happen to prefer DC fans on their own headers rather than the pwm splitter method, for one thing, I know when a fan fails. I also prefer the extra control of separate curves, for example I like to run the front intakes at higher rpm, side fan at low fixed rpm, etc.


----------



## boy005

I have one big question - will Corsair Vengeance Pro memory fit under Noctua l12? On noctua page of this cooler, it has green mark, but how accurate is that table...?

Mbo is asrock b85m-itx...

sorry for my bad english


----------



## mwayne5

Would like to join please. NH-U9B SE2 tucked away nicely inside of my Ncase M1.


----------



## Andorski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwayne5*
> 
> Would like to join please. NH-U9B SE2 tucked away nicely inside of my Ncase M1.


Hows the NH-U9B SE2 in the M1? I'm using the NH-C12P and I'm getting somewhat decent cooling. Running Prime95 and Furmark my CPU temps hit 75C within 15 minutes.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andorski*
> 
> Hows the NH-U9B SE2 in the M1? I'm using the NH-C12P and I'm getting somewhat decent cooling. Running Prime95 and Furmark my CPU temps hit 75C within 15 minutes.


what are your system specs and ghz of your cpu? I run the same cooler on my 6 core and I stay at 68c with prime 95.
I have never seen temps over 71c on any core.


----------



## Andorski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> what are your system specs and ghz of your cpu? I run the same cooler on my 6 core and I stay at 68c with prime 95.
> I have never seen temps over 71c on any core.


i7-4770k (4.2GHz OC), reference GTX 780, ROG Impact. My high temps are due to me using the NCASE M1, which is a very small ITX case. There's not much space to put in fans to allow for good air flow. Most people with the case went the watercooling route. Those that went aircooling seem to have varying degrees of success.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andorski*
> 
> i7-4770k (4.2GHz OC), reference GTX 780, ROG Impact. My high temps are due to me using the NCASE M1, which is a very small ITX case. There's not much space to put in fans to allow for good air flow. Most people with the case went the watercooling route. Those that went aircooling seem to have varying degrees of success.


yeah I looked up the case on google, not much room in there. though even at 75c I think your cpu temp is fine.


----------



## 331149

Bought 1 NH-D14, loving it.
Bought 2 NF-P12's as intake fans, big mistake. Noisy and vibrating like crazy compared to stock fans. I think I bought the wrong ones.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBDK*
> 
> Bought 1 NH-D14, loving it.
> Bought 2 NF-P12's as intake fans, big mistake. Noisy and vibrating like crazy compared to stock fans. I think I bought the wrong ones.


I am using two NF-P12's as front intake fans for my case. I have them on ULNA's, so they spin about 900 RPM. Excellent fans. If they truly vibrate like crazy, you may have fans that have been damaged. A discussion with Noctua is in order.

There is a PWM version of the NF-P12 as well. It comes on an NH-D14 SE2011. You might be able to buy them separately.


----------



## mwayne5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andorski*
> 
> Hows the NH-U9B SE2 in the M1? I'm using the NH-C12P and I'm getting somewhat decent cooling. Running Prime95 and Furmark my CPU temps hit 75C within 15 minutes.


Running Furmark and Prime 95 on my 4770K and R7950 I bounce around 68 and 69C. I may see a flash of 70, but it usually doesn't stay there.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBDK*
> 
> Bought 1 NH-D14, loving it.
> Bought 2 NF-P12's as intake fans, big mistake. Noisy and vibrating like crazy compared to stock fans. I think I bought the wrong ones.


I'm not currently using my P12s but I did not have a vibration problem with them. And I don't find them noisy per se; they are noticeable past 900-1000rpms but I wouldn't say noisy. I think something is wrong with your fans, or your fan mount is warped, or the screws aren't tightened, something. But this in my experience is not a design defect with the P12s.


----------



## 331149

Yeah I'm not sure what's going on. At half throttle they start to vibrate, if I turn up the voltage a notch the vibration stops. Then if I go full throttle they start to vibrate again, this is with the anti vibration gasket installed as well. I honestly expected a little more due to the fact that they cost 3 times as much as the standard CM Storm Trooper fans. They push a little more air for sure, but I went with Noctua because I expected them to be quiet(er) even on full throttle. I think they rely way too much on the rubber mounts that come with the fan, which I'm unable to use. Oh well, at least the NH-D14 is performing like it should, I'm really happy about that one.

Pic


Recording, not sure if you can hear the vibration due to my awful mic
Beep = Me upping the voltage.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_DiTZFt_h35RjNBMURLTE5zeE0/edit?usp=sharing


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andorski*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mwayne5*
> 
> Would like to join please. NH-U9B SE2 tucked away nicely inside of my Ncase M1.
> 
> 
> 
> Hows the NH-U9B SE2 in the M1? I'm using the NH-C12P and I'm getting somewhat decent cooling. Running Prime95 and Furmark my CPU temps hit 75C within 15 minutes.
Click to expand...

What is your fan configuration? I've often seen pancake cooler perform better with fan pulling air out of cooler instead of pushing air in.

Reason is pushing in through cooler hot air turns out on motherboard, turns up at GPU, RAM I/O housings, etc., and as it goes by the fan gets sucked back in.

With fan pulling out of cooler air flows over motherboard, up into cooler, fan and out side vents.

Even on open bench testing just turning the fan often lowers mobo and CPU temps by 5-8c


----------



## 2slick4u

I have Noctua NH-U14S with 2 NF-A15's and 6 Noctua NF-F12's as intake and exhaust


----------



## prgsdw

I have a Noctua NH-U12S and 2 NF-A14 FLX fans.


----------



## kyosak

I'm trying to decide between NF-A14 FLX and NF-P14 FLX for case fans
I understand the A14 is the newer model but I can buy the P14's for cheaper
Is it worth it to pay the extra for NF-A14 FLX?


----------



## daffy.duck

Pic of my NH-U12P SE2
Great cooler.
Stock cooling and prime 95 gave me over 95°C, before I decided that was too high, but with the Noctua I get a max of 75°C.
Not the best temps but you have to consider my ambient, which is high because I live in a hot climate.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyosak*
> 
> I'm trying to decide between NF-A14 FLX and NF-P14 FLX for case fans
> I understand the A14 is the newer model but I can buy the P14's for cheaper
> Is it worth it to pay the extra for NF-A14 FLX?


If you have positions for 140mm fans, get A14's -- definitely a little bit better. If, OTOH, you have positions for fans with 120mm screw holes, use NF-A15's on NF-P14's.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daffy.duck*
> 
> 
> Pic of my NH-U12P SE2
> Great cooler.
> Stock cooling and prime 95 gave me over 95°C, before I decided that was too high, but with the Noctua I get a max of 75°C.
> Not the best temps but you have to consider my ambient, which is high because I live in a hot climate.


Gut the rear of the case (where the rear exhaust fan goes) for direct exhaust. Increases cooling and lowers noise.


----------



## 331149

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBDK*
> 
> Bought 1 NH-D14, loving it.
> Bought 2 NF-P12's as intake fans, big mistake. Noisy and vibrating like crazy compared to stock fans. I think I bought the wrong ones.


Noctua will send me some new replacement fans, just got the mail today. That's some top quality customer service right there







Hopefully these will work properly.


----------



## noth1NG

Hello guys new to the forum here looking for some information about the Noctua NH-C14 Silent Heatpipe cpu cooler, my motherboard currently is a MAXIMUS V GENE mATX.
I was wondering if il have clearance problems with the Corsair Vengeance Ram that i have they are pretty high profiles.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noth1NG*
> 
> Hello guys new to the forum here looking for some information about the Noctua NH-C14 Silent Heatpipe cpu cooler, my motherboard currently is a MAXIMUS V GENE mATX.
> I was wondering if il have clearance problems with the Corsair Vengeance Ram that i have they are pretty high profiles.


yes you will have clearance issue's.
here is a link to the one that will clear the memory, I use it in my system.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608019
and here is a pic of it in my system.



here is a better pic



and yes it cools very good, my i7 970 6 core never gets over 68c under full load.


----------



## noth1NG

Damn Thanks for the information would getting a low profile ram solve the issue do you know if it would have enough space?


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noth1NG*
> 
> Damn Thanks for the information would getting a low profile ram solve the issue do you know if it would have enough space?


yes it will fit with low profile memory sticks.
memory really doesn't need heatsinks or a dedicated fan, those heatsinks are kinda for show.
most of the time your case fans flow the air good enough to cool the ram.
also the noctua cpu cooler you are thinking of getting will move air across your ram, as mine does it also.


----------



## noth1NG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> yes it will fit with low profile memory sticks.
> memory really doesn't need heatsinks or a dedicated fan, those heatsinks are kinda for show.
> most of the time your case fans flow the air good enough to cool the ram.
> also the noctua cpu cooler you are thinking of getting will move air across your ram, as mine does it also.


Alright great thanks again


----------



## equinoxe3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noth1NG*
> 
> Hello guys new to the forum here looking for some information about the Noctua NH-C14 Silent Heatpipe cpu cooler, my motherboard currently is a MAXIMUS V GENE mATX.
> I was wondering if il have clearance problems with the Corsair Vengeance Ram that i have they are pretty high profiles.


You probably won't have issues if you only use the top fan with the C14 and orient the heatpipes towards the back I/O. However, dual fan mode will not be possible.


----------



## stebbiro

Greetings all, I just got my Noctua NF-F12 PWM fans yesterday. I'm still collecting parts for my first watercool build, and I love the Noctua fans.


----------



## Capt

^mother of god...those are a lot of noctua fans.


----------



## Wihglah

How am I only now finding out about this thread?



http://s295.photobucket.com/user/wihglah/media/Mobile Uploads/20140211_183824_zpsf8421d32.jpg.html






Currently have 3 NF-F12s in Push on a RX360 V3. Soon to be 6 on an identical radiator, then 12 in Push / Pull!

All running from one PWM Fan Header.


----------



## stebbiro

Great pics and video








I was wondering just how quiet they were going to be.


----------



## Notmare

Hey guys, installed an NF-F12 on my Hyper 212 evo last night and took some pics so I thought I would share.





Antec Solo II with 2 NF-S12A PWMs up front. NF-F12 on the Hyper 212 evo. Had I known I would want to replace the fan on the 212 I would have just bought a Notcua heatsink to begin with.

I'm pretty impressed with the F12, temps only rose about 2c over the stock evo fan, peaking 72c with Prime95 and ~22.5c ambient; 3770k @ 3.9. I've noticed the F12 doesn't cram air out of the back of the case as well as the evo fan, so I may play with adding an exhaust fan to the back again to see if that improves temps further, or test out the F12 in pull rather than push.

Arctic S1 Plus for the OEM GTX660 is next, and I'll buy another fan for that as well, may try out the P12 as the F12 may be too focused for the larger heatsink.


----------



## stebbiro

I did a few mods to my case, then painted the interior and radiators. The Military Desert Sand Color I chose doesn't match the color of the fans. So.... What do you all think? Should I try to match the colors and if so, Does anyone know of a spray paint that matches the Noctua color?


----------



## mironccr345

I like it. The color combo goes well together imo.


----------



## stebbiro

Much thanks. I plan on copper tubing for some bling and thought the colors would frame everything well.


----------



## 331149

I like it as well, I dont think painting a case Noctua beige is going to look very good







Thats my opinion of course, yours might be different.


----------



## orlfman

I'm looking at replacing the fans that came with my nh-d14. I was bummed out that noctua never updated it to include pwm fans. So I'm currently looking at cooler master blade master 120 fans to replace the fans that came with my d14. Anyone know if its a worth while upgrade over it? Any recommendations other than other noctua fans?

edit:
is it even worth it?


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlfman*
> 
> I'm looking at replacing the fans that came with my nh-d14. I was bummed out that noctua never updated it to include pwm fans. So I'm currently looking at cooler master blade master 120 fans to replace the fans that came with my d14. Anyone know if its a worth while upgrade over it? Any recommendations other than other noctua fans?
> 
> edit:
> is it even worth it?


If you replace them, replace them with something good. Noctua NF-A15's or Thermalright TY-140.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stebbiro*
> 
> Much thanks. I plan on copper tubing for some bling and thought the colors would frame everything well.


Copper tubes or piping? Either way, it'll look good. Start a build log.


----------



## doyll

What ohhgourami said








I would use TY-147. Same fan as Ty-140 but black housing with white fan. For maximum cooling the TY-143 is 130cfm @ 2500rpm but still as quiet as stock fans at 1200-1300rpm. Keep in mind the draw 0.6 amp so need a PWM splitter with PSU power. You can use fan clips instead of rubber bands. This pic is testing cooler and fans.

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=269339

TY-143 at 1200rpm is very close to what stock NH-D14 fan are full speed. Notice TY-143 at 2500rpm is 8.25c cooler than at 1200rpm. (click on image to enlarge)

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=269339


----------



## orlfman

TY-143 looks nice but kinda pricy. I'm really interested in the blade masters 120 since they're decently priced and pwm, high static pressure, and has a 20% off coupon on newegg. Would two of them in push / pull be a decent drop in temps over the stock 120 and 140?

Is there any particular reason to use a 140mm in the center?

Any other pwm fans that would be decent and better than the blade masters within the same price range?


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlfman*
> 
> TY-143 looks nice but kinda pricy. I'm really interested in the blade masters 120 since they're decently priced and pwm, high static pressure, and has a 20% off coupon on newegg. Would two of them in push / pull be a decent drop in temps over the stock 120 and 140?
> 
> Is there any particular reason to use a 140mm in the center?
> 
> Any other pwm fans that would be decent and better than the blade masters within the same price range?


Try 140mm Cougars then. They regularly go on sale to be <$10 each. NH-D14 doesn't need very high static pressure just good overall airflow.

I cringe at the idea of blade masters as they seem to be very loud.


----------



## orlfman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Try 140mm Cougars then. They regularly go on sale to be <$10 each. NH-D14 doesn't need very high static pressure just good overall airflow.
> 
> I cringe at the idea of blade masters as they seem to be very loud.


Is there any reason why the recommendation of 140mm fans over higher rpm 120mm fans with a nh-d14? Noise isn't much of a concern to me. As long as they're decently quiet at idle and only ramp up during load I'm happy. Does it matter if there is a 140 or 120 in the middle when used in a push / pull configuration?


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlfman*
> 
> Is there any reason why the recommendation of 140mm fans over higher rpm 120mm fans with a nh-d14? Noise isn't much of a concern to me. As long as they're decently quiet at idle and only ramp up during load I'm happy. Does it matter if there is a 140 or 120 in the middle when used in a push / pull configuration?


A quality 140mm fan tends to produce more airflow for the same amount of noise. I'd try to have 2x 140mm to push air through the entire surface area of the heatsink.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *orlfman*
> 
> I'm looking at replacing the fans that came with my nh-d14. I was bummed out that noctua never updated it to include pwm fans. So I'm currently looking at cooler master blade master 120 fans to replace the fans that came with my d14. Anyone know if its a worth while upgrade over it? Any recommendations other than other noctua fans?
> 
> edit:
> is it even worth it?
> 
> 
> 
> If you replace them, replace them with something good. Noctua NF-A15's or Thermalright TY-140.
Click to expand...

This. Definitely this. See item 4 in my sig, chapter 7 or so. And for your front fan, you won't do better than the stock NF-P12, unless it's a NF-P12 PWM or one of the above-mentioned 140mm fans (along with ultra-low profile memory).


----------



## orlfman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> This. Definitely this. See item 4 in my sig, chapter 7 or so. And for your front fan, you won't do better than the stock NF-P12, unless it's a NF-P12 PWM or one of the above-mentioned 140mm fans (along with ultra-low profile memory).


Do you have to use a 140mm in the center? What about if you want to use a 120mm in the center / 2x 120 in push / pull?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlfman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> This. Definitely this. See item 4 in my sig, chapter 7 or so. And for your front fan, you won't do better than the stock NF-P12, unless it's a NF-P12 PWM or one of the above-mentioned 140mm fans (along with ultra-low profile memory).
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have to use a 140mm in the center? What about if you want to use a 120mm in the center / 2x 120 in push / pull?
Click to expand...

Of course you could use a 120mm fan in the center. Just understand. though, that it will be louder at the same airflow, or produce less airflow for the same noise.


----------



## orlfman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Of course you could use a 120mm fan in the center. Just understand. though, that it will be louder at the same airflow, or produce less airflow for the same noise.


Oooo, ok. Thanks ehume!


----------



## Mampus

Hey, i have Noctua U9B SE2. My 2500k @ stock is 102 F (39 C) at idle and 132 F (56 C) at load. Is this normal? My ambient temp is around 79 F (26 C) though









I use pea method btw, or i should use different method?

Thx


----------



## Snuckie7

Is there an ETA for the different colored consumer fans yet?


----------



## NKrader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> Is there an ETA for the different colored consumer fans yet?


hopefully never, the second they start making black fans is when i stop buying them and just get a differant black fan.


----------



## mironccr345

Check this out.


----------



## KipH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Check this out.


I love the black and brown:
Quote:


> Vienna, May 13th 2014 - Noctua today expanded its product portfolio with two new fan product lines and a wide range of accessory kits. Whereas the redux line addresses price-conscious users by reissuing some of Noctua's most popular, award-winning models and presenting them in streamlined, more affordable packages, the industrialPPC (Protected Performance Cooling) line is conceived for industrial heavy duty applications that require enhanced cooling performance and advanced ingress protection.
> 
> "Our new product lines allow us to address audiences we have not been able to reach in the past", explains Mag. Roland Mossig (Noctua CEO), "Coming at about 3/4 of the price of our standard models, the redux line is ideal for all those looking for a more affordable entry into the world of premium quality quiet cooling. The industrialPPC fans fulfil our industry client's requests for high speed models that are suitable for use in challenging environments. However, I think they will also appeal to PC enthusiasts striving for extreme performance. Last but not least, the introduction of the two new product lines allows us to respond to the recurring demands for Noctua fans in different colors."
> 
> Whereas the redux fans feature an attractive light/dark grey colour scheme that is reminiscent of the two shades of brown used Noctua's standard line-up, the industrialPPC models come in an all black design.
> 
> The redux edition comprises both 4-pin PWM and 3-pin versions of NF-P14, NF-S12B, NF-B9 and NF-R8, all of which are proven, time-tested models that have convinced thousands of customers and helped to found Noctua's reputation as a first-tier supplier of premium grade low noise cooling equipment. Altogether, there will be 13 redux models with speeds ranging from 700 to 1700rpm.
> 
> The industrialPPC line features ruggedised 2000 and 3000rpm versions of the award-winning NF-F12 and NF-A14 fans. Thanks to the outstanding aerodynamic efficiency of these designs and the use of a novel three-phase motor, the industrialPPC versions provide superior airflow and pressure capacity while keeping noise levels and power consumption moderate as against comparable high-speed fans. Their fibre-glass reinforced polyamide construction and certified water and dust protection (up to IP67) make the industrialPPC fans an ideal choice for highly demanding applications that require superior flow rates and ultimate dependability.
> 
> In addition to the new fan product lines, Noctua also introduced a wide range of accessory sets to complement these fans. For example, customers can upgrade their redux or industrialPPC fans with anti-vibration mounts (NA-SAV2), Low-Noise Adaptors (NA-SRC7 & NA-SRC10), extension cables (NA-SEC1 & NA-SEC2) or y-cables (NA-SYC1 & NA-SYC2).
> 
> Prices and availability
> All redux and industrialPPC models are currently shipping and will be available shortly. The manufacturer suggested retail prices are as follows:
> redux 140mm: EUR 15.90 / USD 19.90
> redux 120mm: EUR 13.90 / USD 17.90
> redux 92mm: EUR 11.90 / USD 15.90
> redux 80mm: EUR 10.90 / USD 14.90
> industrialPPC 140mm IP52: EUR 26.90 / USD 29.90
> industrialPPC 140mm IP67: EUR 29.90 / USD 34.90
> industrialPPC 120mm IP52: EUR 24.90 / USD 26.90
> industrialPPC 120mm IP67: EUR 29.90 / USD 34.9
> Accessory sets: EUR 5.90 / USD 7.90
> 
> About Noctua
> Designed in Austria, Noctua's premium cooling components are internationally renowned for their superb quietness, exceptional performance and thoroughgoing quality. Having received more than 3000 awards and recommendations from leading hardware websites and magazines, Noctua's fans and heatsinks are chosen by more than a hundred thousand satisfied customers around the globe.
> 
> Links
> Press-Release: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=news_list&news_id=93
> redux: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=redux
> industrialPPC: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=industrialppc
> Accessories: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=produkte#accessories
> Overview Noctua product lines: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=noctua_product_lines
> Photos: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=presse_bilder


----------



## Matt-Matt

I got a Noctua NH-12P for cheap used a while back, unfortunately it didn't come with the stock fan. I got a 1155 kit for it and it's now my spare if my water cooling goes down.









Does this mean I can join this club? haha









I must say that the install on it is so simple and so effective too! If i ever go air again it's gonna be a Noctua methinks.


----------



## Tyler Dalton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Check this out.


But! I wanted a black P12









Those 2000rpm models of the F12 and A14 are probably going to sell like hotcakes though.


----------



## Capt

I want to replace all of the fans in my case with those 3000 rpm models.


----------



## BrettJSr72

I WILL be replacing my fans. Gonna cost me a pretty shiny penny but, I WANT WHAT I WANT AND USUALLY GET IT!!!


----------



## Mampus

So Gentle Typhoon get a new challenger then


----------



## Lever Guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NKrader*
> 
> hopefully never, the second they start making black fans is when i stop buying them and just get a differant black fan.


your joking right?


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NKrader*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Snuckie7*
> 
> Is there an ETA for the different colored consumer fans yet?
> 
> 
> 
> hopefully never, the second they start making black fans is when i stop buying them and just get a differant black fan.
Click to expand...

I second this, with the exception that I'd probably still buy them in black but they would be stuffed in the back of cases where they can't be seem because I'd rather fly the original colors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Check this out.


Now of only they made those 3000 rpm models in normal noctua colors my bank account would be in serious trouble.

I will try to update the club member list over the next week or so. College course are over and now I have more time to dedicate to the forum.


----------



## NKrader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I second this, with the exception that I'd probably still buy them in black but they would be stuffed in the back of cases where they can't be seem because I'd rather fly the original colors.
> *Now of only they made those 3000 rpm models in normal noctua colors* my bank account would be in serious trouble.
> 
> I will try to update the club member list over the next week or so. College course are over and now I have more time to dedicate to the forum.


Yep


----------



## BrettJSr72

I can understand the attachment to the uniqueness of the color scheme but, the industrial black fans with brown silencers is pretty good looking!


----------



## NKrader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> I can understand the attachment to the uniqueness of the color scheme but, the *industrial black fans* with brown silencers is pretty good looking!


can already get 98% of that with any run of the mill fan manufactures, noiseblockers, yates, scythe...

there are tons of black fans on the market that are almost exactly as silent at matching speeds.. noctua was about the "elitist" colors and doing their own thing. personally i think this is a huge step backwards for their fans.


----------



## AMW1011

I'm very much looking forward to seeing how their industrial line compares to some of the better fans like Jetflos. Doubt they will come close to anything from the likes of Delta though, but we shall see. I might finally buy some Noctua fans now they have a product that isn't anemic.


----------



## DrockinWV

Have 2 Noctua NF-A14 PWMs up front for sucking air in and 2 Noctua NF-F12 PWMs up top on my Corsair H100i blowing air out! Soon be ordering 2 more F12s for a push/pull on my H100i and 2 more A14s bottom intake and rear exhaust! Love these fans, and their colors!!


----------



## BrettJSr72

Just RMA'd one of my NF-F12's. Process couldn't have been simpler. I'm sure there are other manufacturers that stand behind their product just as well but I'd rather not find out. Still waiting on the industrials so I can compare to the retail first hand.


----------



## happy hopping

what is the cause of failure for your fan?


----------



## BrettJSr72

It began to leak oil. Noticed small droplets on it when I took it out to put in a NF-S12A


----------



## Jeffredo

Please add me to the club. I just just purchased an NH-U12P SE2 for a pretty good price. I'm waiting on Noctua to send me the free AMD bracket that will allow me to oriented it to exhaust out the back of my case (you just have to send them an email requesting it with screenshots of your receipt for the cooler and AM3 CPU or Mobo receipt). I know its an older model, but I think for the price vs. quality its the best I can do for a case that cant hold anything taller than a 120mm cooler.

http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=42819&vpn=NH-U12P%20SE2&manufacture=Noctua&promoid=1114

This will be a "spare parts" build using an X4 980 BE @ 4.1 Ghz. I'll report back with the temperature once the bracket arrives and I get it installed. This will be my first Noctua product.


----------



## Wihglah

I just caught the SP specs on the new PPC variant of the NF-A14s:

2000rpm = 4.18mm/H20
3000rpm = 10.52mm/H20


----------



## BrettJSr72

Some serious pressure there! I was informed by Noctua that they should begin to get to retailers in about three weeks.


----------



## M00NIE

Is there a good way to change the colour on the corner pieces?

Planning to buy some of the new Industrial serise once they are available. Would be great for my rad and case fans if i could just change the isolators to yellow http://i.imgur.com/uc3CS5G.jpg


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Some serious pressure there! I was informed by Noctua that they should begin to get to retailers in about three weeks.


That will tie in quite nicely with my timing. Are we assuming that they will be equally noiseless as the regular variant at low rpms?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M00NIE*
> 
> Is there a good way to change the colour on the corner pieces?
> 
> Planning to buy some of the new Industrial serise once they are available. Would be great for my rad and case fans if i could just change the isolators to yellow http://i.imgur.com/uc3CS5G.jpg


Cool rig.

Yellow could be a challenge.

I would take a wild guess at bleach them white, then die them yellow with Rit.

(goes of to try the bleach thing.)


----------



## M00NIE

Noctua would make a killing if they made some different colour isolators. Sell directly off there site, cheap to make and ship. Id pay any premium just for a different coloured piece of rubber


----------



## Wihglah

OK - About 20 minutes in bleach and my existing isolators have not changed at all.


----------



## M00NIE

I had a feeling this wasn't going to be simple

Thanks for trying tho, i really appreciate it.


----------



## M00NIE

"thank you for contacting Noctua.

We're considering to make anti-vibration pads in different colors as well, but unfortunately there are no details available yet."

Maybe one day


----------



## Wihglah

Rit dye has no effect either.


----------



## Sayson

Hello people.
Any thoughts on Noctua NF-S12B redux 1200rpm?
I am looking for a very quiet rear fan (and cheap) to pull hot air from my case.


----------



## Wihglah

PPCs are in stock.


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> PPCs are in stock.


Where did you find them?


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Where did you find them?


http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-026-NC&groupid=701&catid=2331


----------



## Ght10

Can I join the club









Noctua NF-S12A ULN Case Fan 120 mm x 2
Noctua NH-L9i CPU Cooler
NF-A15 PWM


----------



## stebbiro

Welcome Aboard! Looks good.


----------



## Mampus

Any idea what are the ideal idle temp for stock-clocked 2500k? Mine using U9B SE2, and it's actually hit 39C (102F) right now. My case is Antec 900 with 2 intake fan (GT AP-15) and 1 exhaust (PWM Artic Cooling)









Help


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ght10*
> 
> Can I join the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Noctua NF-S12A ULN Case Fan 120 mm x 2
> Noctua NH-L9i CPU Cooler
> NF-A15 PWM
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clean build.


----------



## Sazexa

Those redux ones are incredibly beautiful; I wish I had seen them before ordering the other fans/components to my case!

Maybe I'll order the anyways; and order a different/matching power supply. These are gorgeous. I can only imagine how an NH-L9i would look with one of those Redux B9's.


----------



## Wihglah

Damn, my credit card clicks over and everywhere is sold out of 2000rpm A-14s


----------



## stebbiro

Try here New Egg


----------



## BrettJSr72

Check out the link below. Beginning at 4:20 he speaks of the upcoming 200mm (no longer in yellow) getting closer to release!

https://teksyndicate.com/videos/getting-nerdy-noctua-computex-2014


----------



## KipH

They are great, black is beautiful. Don't ask how much they are. They are out now in Europe.
In the beginning of that video, do you see a funny looking fellow walking past? Guess who that it


----------



## EarlZ

How good is tha u12s compared to the h100i or h105 assumed all coolers use 2x gt ap15's


----------



## DrockinWV

Not sure about the U12 but I had a U14 and it was about the same as the H100i. If you go the H100i route though make sure to pick up some F12s!


----------



## Capt

The NH-U14S performs just as good as the H100i if not better. Go look at some reviews of the NH-U14S and you will be impressed by its awesome performance.


----------



## fateswarm

It appears it got improved heatpipe/condenser technology that the D15 inherited. I expect the latter to be very impressive compared to aio water coolers. Though I may have to point it towards the window in the summer


----------



## Sazexa

So, I'd like some input if anyone can help.

I really want the NH-L9i cooler for it's aesthetic, and by that I mean the heatsink. I plan on also replacing the fan on the heatsink with one that has slightly higher CFM.

Noctua recommends that you use Haswell CPU's of the S (65W) series, or only recommends the 84W ones if the turbo boost technology is off.

I was considering maybe buying that new i7 4.0 GHz Devil's Canyon CPU. I wouldn't be overclocking, I just want that base stock speed. Considering the TIM is better on DC CPU's, I'm not over clocking, and that I'll maybe turn off the turbo boost... The NH-L9i should handle it well right? I mean it performs better than the stock heatsink/fan anyways.


----------



## Vaux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> It appears it got improved heatpipe/condenser technology that the D15 inherited. I expect the latter to be very impressive compared to aio water coolers. Though I may have to point it towards the window in the summer


He especially have improved fan, imo it's the biggest difference with the d14

Talking of improved fan, no-one know when a-series 92*25 gonna be out?


----------



## EarlZ

I cannot use the 14S because i have an matx chasis and board with sli.


----------



## Ght10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So, I'd like some input if anyone can help.
> 
> I really want the NH-L9i cooler for it's aesthetic, and by that I mean the heatsink. I plan on also replacing the fan on the heatsink with one that has slightly higher CFM.
> 
> Noctua recommends that you use Haswell CPU's of the S (65W) series, or only recommends the 84W ones if the turbo boost technology is off.
> 
> I was considering maybe buying that new i7 4.0 GHz Devil's Canyon CPU. I wouldn't be overclocking, I just want that base stock speed. Considering the TIM is better on DC CPU's, I'm not over clocking, and that I'll maybe turn off the turbo boost... The NH-L9i should handle it well right? I mean it performs better than the stock heatsink/fan anyways.


I'm using the NH-L9i with i5 4670k with a small o/c 4.2ghz. I've swapped the fan for the Noctua NF-B9-PWM 92mm Fan, but you could use any 92mm fan! My temps are 80c whilst prime95 and 54c gaming







I'm also thinking of getting a DC but a 4790K. It's a great little cooler, I think it will have no problems with the new DC's


----------



## deninho

Hello people,

I'm interested in buying the Noctua U14S, for my rig, but I'm worried about compatibility issues.

According to Noctua, the U14S on my M/B (Asus Gryphon z87) would interfere with the first pci express slot, so they suggest either use the second slot, or rotate the heatsink 90°. In that case, wouldn't the cooler extend over the memory slots? If so, I guess I would have problem with high profile memory such as the hyperx beasts i have, right?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ght10*
> 
> I'm using the NH-L9i with i5 4670k with a small o/c 4.2ghz. I've swapped the fan for the Noctua NF-B9-PWM 92mm Fan, but you could use any 92mm fan! My temps are 80c whilst prime95 and 54c gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also thinking of getting a DC but a 4790K. It's a great little cooler, I think it will have no problems with the new DC's


Thanks! I was relatively positive it could handle it, but seeing that you have a modest little OC I'm positive.









I like your little build there, too! Very cool.

Now all I need to do is figure out how/if I can update my boards BIOS without a CPU, so I can actually use the 4790k


----------



## macoi251

anyone tried installing nf-f12 on u14s?


----------



## Vaux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macoi251*
> 
> anyone tried installing nf-f12 on u14s?


Why you would do that? nf-a15 is far better than an nf-f12

And the nf-a15 use 120mm mount, so you don't gonna have any problem using a 120mm fan


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vaux*
> 
> Why you would do that? nf-a15 is far better than an nf-f12
> 
> And the nf-a15 use 120mm mount, so you don't gonna have any problem using a 120mm fan


Actually, I've always wondered if some / most / all of the benefit of the A15 is lost because of the big gap on at the top that allows the air to bypass the heatsink.

NF-F12s would force all their air through the fins. Also being SP fans, wouldn't they be better at forcing air through the fins?

I'd like to see it tried......


----------



## Vaux

The gap is not that big, they still have thing to cool on the top of the cooler and with an 120mm fan some heatpipe wouldn't be directly cooled anymore.

For air pressure, the f12 doesn't really have more air pressure than other high-end fan, don't let you abuse by marketing, if their "focused flow" really works they would put it on all their fan, not only on f12


----------



## Notmare

Hey guys, what's the preferred fan for intakes with dust filters, P12 or F12? My current case has all obstructions behind the fans removed, no drives or anything in the way if that helps. Thanks!


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Notmare*
> 
> Hey guys, what's the preferred fan for intakes with dust filters, P12 or F12? My current case has all obstructions behind the fans removed, no drives or anything in the way if that helps. Thanks!


F12's.


----------



## fateswarm

The flow is almost identical. The f12 pressure is higher but with no obstructions it doesn't matter. f12 has pwm.


----------



## Vaux

Actually the air pressure is almost the same, the P12 have a better ratio CFM/noise but the F12 have higher RPM (and P12 exist in PWM too)


----------



## fateswarm

Yep, P12 seems better for cases (than F12). Not designed for cases apparently. Interesting.


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Yep, P12 seems better for cases (than F12). Not designed for cases apparently. Interesting.


If you have dust filter (which he does) , the F12 will be better.


----------



## DrockinWV

F12s are designed for Rads, with their Focused Flow System


----------



## Vaux

Their focused flow system is just marketing

Here a test with F12 and P12: http://www.hardware.fr/articles/867-15/noctua-nf-f12-nf-p12-pwm-test.html (sorry in french, but you can still understand graphics and table)
The only advantage of the F12 is to going higher in the RPM, the lose of CFM on radiator is almost the same


----------



## fateswarm

Why is RPM in isolation an advantage?


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Why is RPM in isolation an advantage?


In of itself, it isn't, but the F12 pulls more static pressure than the P12.

With no obstructions, the P12 would probably be better, but with the dust filters, the F12's static pressure is an advantage. Even if you have no filters, but still run positive pressure the f12 will win.


----------



## Vaux

Higher RPM mean higher CFM at maximum speed so if you need more airflow it's an advantage, and that's the only point where the F12 really do better than the P12
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> In of itself, it isn't, but the F12 pulls more static pressure than the P12.
> 
> With no obstructions, the P12 would probably be better, but with the dust filters, the F12's static pressure is an advantage. Even if you have no filters, but still run positive pressure the f12 will win.


look the test i put, at same speed the p12 is better on air and on radiator (and with less noise), and you have the same loss of CFM when you pass to radiator from air so no more air pressure


----------



## fateswarm

I meant we have the official specs on highest rpm, highest flow, highest pressure, so talking about rpm separately seemed unnecessary.


----------



## DrockinWV

Its hard to believe anything has less noise than the F12s, I have 2 of them running at 100% next to me and cannot hear anything but airflow...


----------



## Vaux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Its hard to believe anything has less noise than the F12s, I have 2 of them running at 100% next to me and cannot hear anything but airflow...


In fact the noise of the airflow came form the aerodynamic of the fan


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vaux*
> 
> In fact the noise of the airflow came form the aerodynamic of the fan


Regardless which of these two are better, the F12s mounted to my H100i are waaaaay more quiet than the stock Corsair fans


----------



## Wihglah

Woohoo!

Just found some NF-A14 PPCs in stock in the UK.

Needless to say, I have ordered one.


----------



## doyll

Would someone who speaks French please tell us what, if any, resistance there is to the airflow?

If there is no resistance to the airflow the graphs have little meaning. Because in real life use we use our fans with at least the resistance of a grill.. often a grill and filter, or a cooler, or a radiator. Which is the reason I always use fans at least capable of being used on coolers for case fans.


----------



## Vaux

Flux d'air a vide = airflow at void (no resistance)
Flux d'air sur radiateur = airflow on a radiator

So you have both (also the resistance of a grill is really minor), unfortunately they don't put the noise on radiator


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Notmare*
> 
> Hey guys, what's the preferred fan for intakes with dust filters, P12 or F12? My current case has all obstructions behind the fans removed, no drives or anything in the way if that helps. Thanks!


I have NF-F12's, but I use NF-P12's behind filters in my case.

In a while I will have exact data on airflow behind filters.


----------



## Notmare

You guys rock! I love a good discussion, and ehume your objective data would be extremely welcome. Long story short I was a silly man and bought some S12a's as intakes only to find they don't work great behind filters. So now I'm in the market for a new pair of Noctua's and it sounds like I can't go wrong with either, but I may get the P12's if they're more quiet when moving the same amount of air through filters.


----------



## equinoxe3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Notmare*
> 
> You guys rock! I love a good discussion, and ehume your objective data would be extremely welcome. Long story short I was a silly man and bought some S12a's as intakes only to find they don't work great behind filters. So now I'm in the market for a new pair of Noctua's and it sounds like I can't go wrong with either, but I may get the P12's if they're more quiet when moving the same amount of air through filters.


I thought the same thing when I chose my case fans. The S12 would have probably been fine for the exhaust with only the grille in the way, but for the intake with the door of the Define Mini and the mesh filter I went with P12s everywhere. The F12 wasn't out then, but I bought one later to try on my heatsink and found the acoustics not too great (as the hardware.fr review mentioned earlier). I don't know how F vs P would fare for case use so I wait for ehume's data as well


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *equinoxe3d*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Notmare*
> 
> You guys rock! I love a good discussion, and ehume your objective data would be extremely welcome. Long story short I was a silly man and bought some S12a's as intakes only to find they don't work great behind filters. So now I'm in the market for a new pair of Noctua's and it sounds like I can't go wrong with either, but I may get the P12's if they're more quiet when moving the same amount of air through filters.
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the same thing when I chose my case fans. The S12 would have probably been fine for the exhaust with only the grille in the way, but for the intake with the door of the Define Mini and the mesh filter I went with P12s everywhere. The F12 wasn't out then, but I bought one later to try on my heatsink and found the acoustics not too great (as the hardware.fr review mentioned earlier). I don't know how F vs P would fare for case use so I wait for ehume's data as well
Click to expand...

You will have to wait a bit longer. I have been waylaid by my Firefox themes.


----------



## Abula

I'm about to finish my server with only noctua fans, 7x NF-S12A PWM + 6x NF-A14 PWM, all controlled by Supermicro Bios with a pair of Swiftech 8-Way PWM Cable Splitter - SATA Power (8W-PWM-SPL-ST), all idle around 350rpms.


----------



## Wihglah

Apparently my NF-A14 PPC 2000 has been delivered.

I'll post up my impressions after work.

edit - oh yeah!

My case came with a cheap CM 140mm fan. Not surprisingly the Noctua PPC blows it away (pun intended)

Airflow out the back of the case has increased by a significant amount. It idles no lower than 950rpm (much higher than the marketing blurb btw), but it is silent at that speed and puts out more flow than my old fan did at 1300rpm. At 2000 rpm, it's like a hurricane, and the only noise is airflow.

Before:



After



Air cooled GPU temps at the end of Heaven are 3*C lower than before.


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> Apparently my NF-A14 PPC 2000 has been delivered.
> 
> I'll post up my impressions after work.
> 
> edit - oh yeah!
> 
> My case came with a cheap CM 140mm fan. Not surprisingly the Noctua PPC blows it away (pun intended)
> 
> Airflow out the back of the case has increased by a significant amount. It idles no lower than 950rpm (much higher than the marketing blurb btw), but it is silent at that speed and puts out more flow than my old fan did at 1300rpm. At 2000 rom, it's like a hurricane, and the only noise is airflow.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> Air cooled GPU temps at the end of Heaven are 3*C lower than before.


Where did you buy yours from?


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagepagan*
> 
> Where did you buy yours from?


watercoolinguk.co.uk

TBH - shipping took about a week, they sound a bit flaky. Won't be using them again.

Looks like you need the PWM version to get down to 500rpm


----------



## savagepagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> watercoolinguk.co.uk
> 
> TBH - shipping took about a week, they sound a bit flaky. Won't be using them again.
> 
> Looks like you need the PWM version to get down to 500rpm


No telling when they arrive in the US.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> watercoolinguk.co.uk
> 
> TBH - shipping took about a week, they sound a bit flaky. Won't be using them again.
> 
> Looks like you need the PWM version to get down to 500rpm


Wait what? They can go down to 500rpm?


----------



## BrettJSr72

On both Amazon and NCIX, I have stock reminders/alerts pending. I want to know the MINUTE they're in stock as I'll be ordering several bunches, as my wallet will allow me.


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Wait what? They can go down to 500rpm?


Apparantly


----------



## OverclockerFox

Does anyone know when the 200mm Noctua fans will be released? I have an empty fan port from when one of my 200mm all-black Bitfenix Spectre Pros broke a blade.
Memory Express has a half-dozen of the BSP's of the red LED variety, and I can still find the all-black BSP's in stock on frozenCPU. I sort of want to get one of the BSP's to match the two I have already, since they're getting hard to find and discontinued. On the other hand, I want to avoid wasting money, as I'd want to get a set of the 200mm Noctuas when they release. But unfortunately, I don't know when that might be. Any guesses when they might start shipping them to North America?


----------



## Vaux

It's for Q4 2014


----------



## Notmare

The NF-A14 PWM is in stock on Newegg at the moment.


----------



## Widdyjudas

May I join the club.
Cpu cooler NH U14s.


2x Nf-f12 IPPC 2000 pwm



At last, very nice color. Accessories just 1 set of normal screw??? Why the ordinary version got so many goods but this only got 1set screw...


Compared to stock CM fan, the fan put much more wind and cooled my cpu/gpu about 3c.
However, I notice both fan making a humming noise, is it normal? I set bios to 60% and speed around 1300-1400rpm according to hwmonitor.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Widdyjudas*
> 
> May I join the club.
> Compared to stock CM fan, the fan put much more wind and cooled my cpu/gpu about 3c.
> However, I notice both fan making a humming noise, is it normal? I set bios to 60% and speed around 1300-1400rpm according to hwmonitor.


What's 60% ±5% of 2000?


----------



## Widdyjudas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> What's 60% ±5% of 2000?


I meant I set bios to auto 60% speed on default speed. Its making a humming noise, is it normal?


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Widdyjudas*
> 
> I meant I set bios to auto 60% speed on default speed. Its making a humming noise, is it normal?


1300rpm isn't exactly a slow speed so I'd expect humming noise. As long as it's not some sort of scratchy sound you should be fine. If it bothers you, then turn down the fans. You don't need to run them at that speed at most times.


----------



## Widdyjudas

Its not clicking or scratching noise. Its like humming noise in the the middle of the fan? I dont know how to describe it.


----------



## savagepagan

Amazon has them now.


----------



## skruppe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Widdyjudas*
> 
> Its not clicking or scratching noise. Its like humming noise in the the middle of the fan? I dont know how to describe it.


The sound of an electric motor?


----------



## Widdyjudas

Yes, its electronic motor noise thank you.
Is it normal? I got the normal noctua 8 and u14s, they are very silent. The 8cm spins at 1400rpm and its still silent.
However the f12 ippc2000 pwn is loud at 1200-1400rpm.
Must I return it and ask for replacement?


----------



## fateswarm

lol..... I had accidentally my nh-d15 on the cpu_opt header (voltage) instead of the cpu header. I hope I didn't lose much. It was like than for 2 days while I was first testing the pc.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> lol..... I had accidentally my nh-d15 on the cpu_opt header (voltage) instead of the cpu header. I hope I didn't lose much. It was like than for 2 days while I was first testing the pc.


Nothing wrong with that, you just weren't able to drop the RPMs as low.


----------



## sniff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Widdyjudas*
> 
> May I join the club.
> Cpu cooler NH U14s.


U14S owner checking in too! Amazed at the quality of their products. Picked up a second fan to go with the NH-14S earlier this week to replace my the Phanteks PH-TC14PE (nice product but really poor quality control) which when installed, was wedged against my side panel fan and sitting on top of the ram heatsink spreaders. Almost the same idle and load temps bu significantly lighter and a smaller footprint too.


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Nothing wrong with that, you just weren't able to drop the RPMs as low.


It was a bit funny because I realized it when I tried to see how "easytune" of gigabyte works. It put the fans on "silent" for a moment and they completely stopped, but, they were also "kicking" trying to start by they couldn't. And it dawned on me, doh! they couldn't even move with such low voltage.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> It was a bit funny because I realized it when I tried to see how "easytune" of gigabyte works. It put the fans on "silent" for a moment and they completely stopped, but, they were also "kicking" trying to start by they couldn't. And it dawned on me, doh! they couldn't even move with such low voltage.


Their min speed can be 200 rpm if you're using PWM: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1395-page5.html

I'm also using a GBT board and use the opt cpu header so I didn't bother with it too much and ended up using my retail fans. You should try it with the PWM header as 700 rpm for min speed is too high.


----------



## fateswarm

Oh it's already on the cpu header. I changed it immediately after I found out.


----------



## warhammer23

One quick question if i may.

Will the Noctua L9i handle an i7 2700k at stock ? And quietly?
No oc plans.
Gaming and video editing. Will it keep it ~ 60 celcius in full load?
Ncase M1 build.
Thank you.


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warhammer23*
> 
> One quick question if i may.
> 
> Will the Noctua L9i handle an i7 2700k at stock ? And quietly?
> No oc plans.
> Gaming and video editing. Will it keep it ~ 60 celcius in full load?
> Ncase M1 build.
> Thank you.


Will the Noctua L9i handle an i7 2700k at stock? - Yes

And quietly? - ish

Will it keep it ~ 60 celcius in full load? - No, 70-80*C, depending on ambients and case airflow.


----------



## warhammer23

Thanks for the info.
Can you propose something else for me scenarios?

NCase M1 - 130 mm max cooler height
2700k no oc
MSI B75IA-E33 - socket near video slot.

Thanks again.


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warhammer23*
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> Can you propose something else for me scenarios?
> 
> NCase M1 - 130 mm max cooler height
> 2700k no oc
> MSI B75IA-E33 - socket near video slot.
> 
> Thanks again.


Air:

Noctua NH-C12P SE14 114mm

Noctua NH-C14 130mm

AIO

Corsair H100i

I would do the H100i with NF-F12s


----------



## Cozmo85

Anyone running more than 2 nf-f12's off one fan header. Fan header should be good for 1amp and the fans only pull .05 under full load.

Want to run 4 nf-f12's on an h100i off the cpu header.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Anyone running more than 2 nf-f12's off one fan header. Fan header should be good for 1amp and the fans only pull .05 under full load.
> 
> Want to run 4 nf-f12's on an h100i off the cpu header.


No, but I'm pretty sure you can run 4 F12s off one header. If not, you can get one of these: http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=11&id=63. Power is from the PSU so no worry about power.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> No, but I'm pretty sure you can run 4 F12s off one header. If not, you can get one of these: http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=11&id=63. Power is from the PSU so no worry about power.


Thanks. The math works out for it but just wondered if anyone tried before. I already got my 3 pwm splitters ready to go. My second pair of f12's arrive tomorrow


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Power is from the PSU so no worry about power.


You can burn headers. It has happened. But if he derived his amperage specs allow it, it's safe.

I would guess it's perfectly safe as long as you don't go near the 70-80% of max capacity.


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Anyone running more than 2 nf-f12's off one fan header. Fan header should be good for 1amp and the fans only pull .05 under full load.
> 
> Want to run 4 nf-f12's on an h100i off the cpu header.


I've got 3.



4 shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> I've got 3.
> 
> 
> 
> 4 shouldn't be a problem.


Thanks, got it going today. 4 working perfectly, temp controlled by the motherboard. All drop to 200rpm at idle.


----------



## Robbieboy

Here's all my Noctua goodness......

https://imageshack.com/i/nssg74j


----------



## Capt

Very nice, how do you like the U14S with dual fans?


----------



## Signal-to-Noise

I know this is an oddly specific question, but I'm not very familiar with 1366 socket hardware.

I have a 920 that's currently being cooled by one of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118046

Well, I'm now transferring the guts of that rig (Orb, in my sig) into an HTPC case for use as a living room media center/file server.

I knew that this HSF wouldn't fit in the Silverstone Grandia GD08 that the rig is going into, and I plan on upgrading to an NH-L12.

The issue is that I totally spaced that I probably need to install a new backplate for the NH-L12 and I started assembling all of the components in the case already.

Finally, I get to the question. I know this is far-fetched, but what kind of chance is there that the NH-L12 will be compatible with the hardware that I already have mounted on the back of the motherboard? Is there any at all? Do I have to take everything out of there? Would a photo of the Zalman's mounting hardware help?

Thanks for any help, fellow Noctuites!


----------



## animal0307

Pretty much zero. Noctua uses completely different mounting hardware from Zelman.


----------



## Robbieboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capt*
> 
> Very nice, how do you like the U14S with dual fans?


I love it......

I have the fan that's pushing air in to the Cooler at 850RPM and the one pulling air out the other side at 750RPM and it is silent.... as i have a de-lidded 3570K chip it's nice and cool as well 25-26C idle and 46-48C full load (Aida 64)

Great Cooler..100% Recommend.


----------



## Signal-to-Noise

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Pretty much zero. Noctua uses completely different mounting hardware from Zelman.


That's what I thought. Figured I'd ask in case I was wrong. Oh well, thanks!


----------



## Wihglah

I did an NF-F12 v Gentle Typhoon test here.

Interestingly it was not the result I expected after all the GT Hype.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> I did an NF-F12 v Gentle Typhoon test here.
> 
> Interestingly it was not the result I expected after all the GT Hype.


Both are good fans, I grabbed the GT as they were like 45% cheaper than the Noctua in my place.


----------



## Capt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> I did an NF-F12 v Gentle Typhoon test here.
> 
> Interestingly it was not the result I expected after all the GT Hype.


Honestly, I never understood the hype about AP-14. They are decent but not as good as people make them to be.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> I did an NF-F12 v Gentle Typhoon test here.
> 
> Interestingly it was not the result I expected after all the GT Hype.
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, I never understood the hype about AP-14. They are decent but not as good as people make them to be.
Click to expand...

@Wiglah - nice test +rep. The hype about the AP-14 is its quietness. You got exactly the results I would expect.

@Capt - All of the GT's put out less output than fans of the same RPM. To get performance comparable to the NF-F12 you would need an AP15.

There is no magic to the physics of fans. Once you have eliminated the excessive noises, fans are all about the same. Since excessive noises have been eliminated in both GT's and Noctuas, you will get nearly identical results, once you have put truly comparable fans together -- like the NF-F12 and the AP-15 (not the AP-14).

One thing that Noctua has done is to improve the sleeve bearing with their SSO and SSO2. That eliminates the ball bearing sound that is still evident in GT's. GT's OTOH were in their heyday cheaper than Noctua fans.

I have lots of both and use both. Comparable.


----------



## fjordiales

Can i join? Got mine from http://www.quietpcusa.com/Default.aspx

Did some changes to them. For the intake/exhaust, i got the 140mm industrial 2k rpm PWM, for the nepton 280L i got the 3k rpm.

BEFORE:



AFTER:


----------



## Widdyjudas

Do your industrial 2000pwm sounds really loud at 1300rpm? Mine got this humming like motor sound. Its not very loud, but noticeable, especialy when the fans spin around 1300-1400rpm.
Must I return it and ask for replacement?
Using the nff12 2k rpm.


----------



## fjordiales

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Widdyjudas*
> 
> Do your industrial 2000pwm sounds really loud at 1300rpm? Mine got this humming like motor sound. Its not very loud, but noticeable, especialy when the fans spin around 1300-1400rpm.
> Must I return it and ask for replacement?
> Using the nff12 2k rpm.


The intakes do have a humming sound at around 1400-1500 for me. I have the 140mm version. I believe it's some turbulence for having a filter or fan grill that's causing the hum. I would do some testing with or without filter to check if it's the turbulence that's causing it. I might be wrong too so it's better to test 1st before RMA. I kinda regret getting the 3k tho. On start up, my fans go full speed and it sounds like a vacuum cleaner. Lol! It blows through the rad though. And it's pwm so by the time I get to Windows, the fans are quiet enough.


----------



## Widdyjudas

Yes, I already tested without the fan grill. The sound was from the middle part of the fan. I believe its the motor sound rather than wind sound.
Mine also sounds like a jet when startup, even louder than my gt2150. After that, its making this humming like motor sound at 1300rpm.


----------



## seville57

I want to join.

I got this for the CPU: Noctua NH-L12.

I got my 2 Noctua NF-F12 industrial PPC-2000 pwm and one Noctua NF-A14 industrial PPC-2000 IP67 pwm in the mailbox yesterday and they are not installed yet.

Edit: The NF-A14 industrial PPC-2000 IP67 is now installed.


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> My Noctua industrialPPC fan review just went live.
> Comparables: A-series, redux series.


Nice - can you tell us, at what's the lowest RPM the NF-F12s kick in under PWM and voltage control?


----------



## ehume

My GA-P55M-UD2 motherboard has adjustable fanspeed signal, which can be switched in BIOS from PWM mode to Voltage mode. I hooked the fans directly to a cable that leads to the CPU header on the mb. The PWM percentage was reported by the MB utility, ET6. So was the speed in RPM.

The mb did not report the Voltage directly. So I hooked the fan through a Noctua 4-pin Y-cable I hooked my old analog multimeter to the other limb of the Y-cable. So I could read the parallel Voltage to what the fan was getting. The RPM, as usual, was reported from the fan's Hall sensors to the mb, which reported it via ET6.

Finally, I could plug the fan directly into the 5v line from the PSU. The NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM would not run on that, though it started up and ran lustily on 7v from the PSU. Unfortunately, the Hall sensors don't report the RPM when you do that.

So, the results on NF-F12 industrialPPC fans at low PWM and low Voltage.:


fanPWM%RPMminVoltsRPMminVoltsRPM fr MB from MB fr PSU 2000PWM103195.484758203000PWM106235.5137150


----------



## Widdyjudas

My question still not answered.
Do your nfff12 2k pwm also got this humming like motor sound? at 1300-1400rpm the sound is quite noticeable. Compared to the completely silent A series.
I dont know if its the motor or bearing sound, but no clicking sound here. Its not the sound from the wind passing through filter, I checked it.


----------



## StreekG

3 x NF-F12 Industrial PPC 2000RPM



Temps dropped significantly over my 1850RPM GTs


----------



## Pleco

Add me please, thanks.

Noctua NH-U12s

Noctua NF-S12A PWM (x4)


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StreekG*
> 
> 3 x NF-F12 Industrial PPC 2000RPM
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps dropped significantly over my 1850RPM GTs


Those are some nice looking Noc's.


----------



## wanako

So back in 2012 I built my wife a little mATX machine, Aquamarine seen in my sig, using a Silverstone SG01, and a i3-2105. I was under a strict budget so unfortunately i didn't have the money for a superior cooler over the engineering failure known as the Intel Stock Heatsink. It worked meh enough until now, but it finally died out and had to get a nice replacement. So i figured I'd give Noctua a try since I've never owned any of their products before. I ended up getting the NH-L9i to keep it low profile.

I got the package today and when I opened it... well, let's say I've never been this impressed with computer part packaging before.

I was just thinking to myself, "damn, this is a nice feeling box..."


Once I opened it up it just looked amazing



It just gave that feel of a premium product



Even the case badge was incredible. I mean, normally we get little metal labels from most of the companies, which is totally cool, but in this case, it felt like a car badge from how thick it was.



I'll be installing it in the system later this week and will post some pics.

I think after this little experience, I've been turned into a fan of Noctua.


----------



## fateswarm

Hey. That looks even better than the nh-d15 box. It's just cartons upon cartons there.


----------



## derfer

Got my first noctua fans and they kinda sucked balls. I'm not that surprised because every fan I've ever tried is in some way disappointing but none have been as hyped or full of themselves as noctua's. Got two NF-P14s redux. First I note the horrible greasy sleeving you expect to find on cheap stock case fans, already ruined with the white cardboard fuzz that's matted into them. Then I took a moment to ponder why I'm being charged the same amount as the normal fans yet get only 4 screws for accessories. Whatever, moving on. Next I plugged them in to test their sound quality in the open air. I was appalled to find they make rubbing sounds when used vertically, but since they sounded fine horizontally and I'm going to be putting them on a rad I went ahead and installed them anyway. This part I almost didn't succeed at because the fan holes on one of them were drilled incorrectly. By the time I got to the forth screw everything was off by a full mm. Never had that happen with the dozen other fans I've tried. I had to screw the screws in at an angle and tear up the plastic to get it mounted.

Finally on I can say they're only a little less crappy than the aerocool DS fans I just had on. Those resonated the case despite being like 50% rubber, but only a fraction as much as the phanteks before them. Those were truly ****. Though an improvement I can't really say I'm pleased with them. They make a hard to describe sound, a faint distant oscillation. I had high hopes for these fans because people said they didn't make all those annoying little oscillating sounds most fans make. I guess my never ending search for a decent brand continues.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Got my first noctua fans


I didn't know this was a noctua complaining thread. Must have changed the description.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Got my first noctua fans


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> I didn't know this was a noctua complaining thread. Must have changed the description.


----------



## Zorton

Hi Guys,

Some silly questions so bear with me. I just finished my new upgrade (as we speak).
Changed from a CM Evo 212 to a Noctua NH-D15 and move from a Zalman Z11 case to a new Haf 932 Advanced.
Also upgraded, SSD, RAM and PSU.

Anyhow, all went fine bar one thing. I bought the following Fan "NF-A14 PPC 2000 IP67" and replaced the Cooler Master 140mm stock fan with it.
Ok, so I boot up the PC for the first tme getting ready to install Windows 7 fresh on my new Samsung Evo 250GB SSD, when the pc launches into the BIOS.
The fan "Cha-Fan2" is coloured completely RED and only has an RPM stat of 463. It relates to the PWM header on the Motherboard (Asus Sabretooth 990fx R2.0) that I have plugged my new Notcua Case fan into.
In the meantime, the fan is spinning pretty loudly.

1. I assume it is ok to use the Motherboard PWM headers to power my NF-A14 PPC 2000 IP67 and monitor it ?
2. If it is ok, why am I getting an error as described ...??

Apologies for my ignorance but not very technical.

Many Thanks,
Emilio


----------



## seville57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zorton*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Some silly questions so bear with me. I just finished my new upgrade (as we speak).
> Changed from a CM Evo 212 to a Noctua NH-D15 and move from a Zalman Z11 case to a new Haf 932 Advanced.
> Also upgraded, SSD, RAM and PSU.
> 
> Anyhow, all went fine bar one thing. I bought the following Fan "NF-A14 PPC 2000 IP67" and replaced the Cooler Master 140mm stock fan with it.
> Ok, so I boot up the PC for the first tme getting ready to install Windows 7 fresh on my new Samsung Evo 250GB SSD, when the pc launches into the BIOS.
> The fan "Cha-Fan2" is coloured completely RED and only has an RPM stat of 463. It relates to the PWM header on the Motherboard (Asus Sabretooth 990fx R2.0) that I have plugged my new Notcua Case fan into.
> In the meantime, the fan is spinning pretty loudly.
> 
> 1. I assume it is ok to use the Motherboard PWM headers to power my NF-A14 PPC 2000 IP67 and monitor it ?
> 2. If it is ok, why am I getting an error as described ...??
> 
> Apologies for my ignorance but not very technical.
> 
> Many Thanks,
> Emilio


I have the same fan on a Asus Rampage IV Extreme motherboard (my board has only 4 pin PWM headers/connectors for 8 fans).

I replaced the front fan (Cougar CF-V14H, 140 mm, 3 pin) to this Noctua NF-A14 PPC 2000 IP67 and have no problems.

1. My fan usin the one this of 8 fans connectors ( I usin all 8 fan connectors on the motherboard) and is monitorin all my 8 fans without any problems.

My Noctua NH-L12 usin 2 connectors/headers: CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT.


----------



## Zorton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seville57*
> 
> I have the same fan on a Asus Rampage IV Extreme motherboard (my board has only 4 pin PWM headers/connectors for 8 fans).
> 
> I replaced the front fan (Cougar CF-V14H, 140 mm, 3 pin) to this Noctua NF-A14 PPC 2000 IP67 and have no problems.
> 
> 1. My fan usin the one this of 8 fans connectors ( I usin all 8 fan connectors on the motherboard) and is monitorin all my 8 fans without any problems.
> 
> My Noctua NH-L12 usin 2 connectors/headers: CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT.


Hi, thanks for the response.
Just so I understand, does your Noctua NF-A14 PPC 2000 IP67 fan have access to its own PWM header on your motherboard with no issues ?
Cheers.


----------



## seville57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zorton*
> 
> Hi, thanks for the response.
> Just so I understand, does your Noctua NF-A14 PPC 2000 IP67 fan have access to its own PWM header on your motherboard with no issues ?
> Cheers.


Yes.

From the CPU_FAN (A, first connector/header) to CHA_FAN 2 (H, last connector/header on the board) says so in the manaul .

I read on a Swedish forum, a guy was tellin that are some fake PWM connectors/headers on some motherboards.

I don't know if this is true.

Edit: The complete name of my fan is: Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM.


----------



## ehume

OP - do you have the NF-A14 PPC 2000 IP67 PWM? PWM in the model name vs no PWM in the model name makes a big difference.

And I will echo the concern that you make sure you are plugging into a real PWM header. Try the fan on a known PWM header to see how it works.


----------



## doyll

I think the best way to be sure a header is PWM signal controlled is to test a PWM fan using 12v power directly from PSU.
If fan header is providing a PWM signal the fan will be speed controlled. If fan header is not the fan will run at full speed.


----------



## Zorton

Hey Guys,
Cheers for all the help and replies. Anyhow, figured it out in the end.
I have the "Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM IP67". Basically, the issue was with my Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 motherboard. It was my belief that the additional PWM headers (* 4) on the Motherboard bar the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT were all true PWM controlled.
Turns out only the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT are true PWM and regulate the fan speed based on the internal Temps.

To resolve I did the following -
1. I changed the Noctua Fan from CHA_FAN2 to CHA_FAN4 (as CHA_FAN 1-3 are controlled as one under the BIOS with CHAN_FAN4 being controlled seperately).
2. Then I went into my BIOS, going to the MONITOR tab and enabling "Q-Fan Control" for CHA_FAN4.
3. Then set to Manual.
4. Loaded up Windows and then manually adjusted the FAN speed to 55% reducing the RPM from 1968 to 1200.

That was that. It's now sitting nicely in my case and barely audible but at full throtlle - wow - sounds like a Hoover, but moves a ton of Air. Blew my DEMCiflex 140mm Filter off the back of my case lol
Very happy with it and my new Noctua NH-D15.....


----------



## desmopilot

Ditched my H80i after 3 weeks (Quite unhappy with it, too bad I can't return it anymore) for a NH-D15 and couldn't be happier! So quiet and better performing even with just the middle fan (unfortunately couldn't mount the second due to clearance) installed.


----------



## doyll

Consumers have now realized how all the hype about CLCs is just marketing and is usually quite misleading about their performance and noise levels .. not to mention the pump life-span and number of pump failures. Maybe not a high percentage, but way higher problem & failure rate than air coolers have.


----------



## QuietGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Consumers have now realized how all the hype about CLCs is just marketing and is usually quite misleading about their performance and noise levels .. not to mention the pump life-span and number of pump failures. Maybe not a high percentage, but way higher problem & failure rate than air coolers have.


+1 I have been saying that all along and get alot if flack for it.

I also think a CLC plays havoc with case air flow as well.


----------



## happy hopping

for those who uses a fan controller, what brand do you use and does it make the noctua run at silent mode?


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happy hopping*
> 
> for those who uses a fan controller, what brand do you use and does it make the noctua run at silent mode?


I use AiSuite 3 via my Asus motherboard.

600rpm is well below ambient noise levels for me.


----------



## FreeElectron

How does the new industrial nf-f12 compare to the GT ap45 ?


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreeElectron*
> 
> How does the new industrial nf-f12 compare to the GT ap45 ?


IF you run at 12v, performance wise, the NF-F12s will be slightly better (but not a lot) on a low FPI rad. On a higher FPI rad, it's lead will improve.

However noise wise the blade / air noise of the AP will win at max speeds.

If you reduce speeds to 1000rpm or less, the NF-F12 gets quieter due to it's better bearing and retains it's performance lead.


----------



## FreeElectron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> IF you run at 12v, performance wise, the NF-F12s will be slightly better (but not a lot) on a low FPI rad. On a higher FPI rad, it's lead will improve.
> 
> However noise wise the blade / air noise of the AP will win at max speeds.
> 
> If you reduce speeds to 1000rpm or less, the NF-F12 gets quieter due to it's better bearing and retains it's performance lead.


How much noisier will the NF-F12 be?
Also which model are you talking about, the 3000 or the 2000 rpm?


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreeElectron*
> 
> How much noisier will the NF-F12 be?
> Also which model are you talking about, the 3000 or the 2000 rpm?


I was comparing the 2000rpm version.

At 12v the difference is very clear side by side. But I suspect that for most of the time 600rpm would be all you need.


----------



## FreeElectron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> I was comparing the 2000rpm version.
> 
> At 12v the difference is very clear side by side. But I suspect that for most of the time 600rpm would be all you need.


Thanks
I was able to find this.

http://www.coolingtechnique.com/recensioni/air-cooling/ventole/630-recensione-scythe-gentle-typhoon-ap-13-e-ap-14.html?showall=&start=3
http://www.coolingtechnique.com/recensioni/air-cooling/ventole/1490-recensione-noctua-redux-e-industrialppc.html?showall=&start=9

If the AP-15 and the AP-14 are the same but with different rpms then that settles it.


----------



## happy hopping

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> I use AiSuite 3 via my Asus motherboard.
> 
> 600rpm is well below ambient noise levels for me.


I also use Asus motherboard, my motherboard is the dual Xeon Z9PE-W8, but I don't see that utility on my download list.

I can use the BIOS to control the fan control, but it doesn't see to work, I had it set on Manual 20%, but it's still very loud, more like high speed. Unless there is a trick to it.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Please add me to your list. Great thread after reading this thread and the NH-D14 & 15 threads on OCN decided to air cool the new build.

Before making a list want to take the time to share my experience with Noctua

The NH-D14 arrived damaged in shipping. Contacted Noctua since the NH-D14 was imported and Noctua replaced the NH-D14 cost nothing, shipping and import tax $0.00 dollars. Notified Noctua of the situation they stepped up to bat and hit a home run received the replacement NH-D14 in 10 days. Noctua mentioned do not sell the damaged NH-D14 you may keep it.









It isn't hard to pick out the damaged heat sink and the new replacement.:









Pictures aren't the best pictures. Build in progress

Noctua Hardware:

NH-D14 x 2
NF-S12A PWM x 11


----------



## shilka

Bought a new case so i finally got around to replace my old NH-U12P SE2 with the NH-U12S.

Going to buy 2x more NF-A14 FLX fans to replace the front 200mm fan which is rubbish.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Bought a new case so i finally got around to replace my old NH-U12P SE2 with the NH-U12S.

Looks Great nice and tidy. You will like the NF-A14 FLX fans.


----------



## HappyPunter

Can I join please! This is my NH-C12P SE14 In my Cooler Master Praetorian. If anyone wants some tips on cable management then please do not be afraid to ask!


----------



## Zorton

Hey,
Does anyone know when the new 200mm Noctua Fans will actually be released ?
Prototypes were shown as far back as Computex 2013 ?
Cheers.


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zorton*
> 
> Hey,
> Does anyone know when the new 200mm Noctua Fans will actually be released ?
> Prototypes were shown as far back as Computex 2013 ?
> Cheers.


Late 2014 if not early 2015


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Just ordered 13 x Noctua NF-P14's for my new radiators! Will get a few NF-A12's for the case intake/exhaust. I know it's watercooling, but without air, watercooling wouldn't do anything anyway.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Just ordered 13 x Noctua NF-P14's for my new radiators! Will get a few NF-A12's for the case intake/exhaust. I know it's watercooling, but without air, watercooling wouldn't do anything anyway.

What case are you putting all of this hardware in? Build Log?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I wanted to start the log when the fans and rads arrive but I can start one early. I've only got the SMA8 Caselabs case right now (as such I only have about three or four pictures of it and nothing is really done with it except that it is put together. I'll get one started though!


----------



## Goggle Eye

I wanted to start the log when the fans and rads arrive but I can start one early. I've only got the SMA8 Caselabs case right now (as such I only have about three or four pictures of it and nothing is really done with it except that it is put together. I'll get one started though.

SMA8 is a very nice case congratulations.







Like to see your build log and pictures. Read all of them don't always have the time to properly reply.


----------



## PapalPastafaria

Hello, I am about to purchase 8 Noctua fans for a build that I am working on. I plan on getting 7 of the NF-F12 industrialPPC-2000 PWM and one NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM for the back exhaust. 6 of the 7 NF-F12 fans will be mounted on 2 360 radiators at the top and front of my case. My motherboard is the MSI z-97 Mpower, it has 2 x 4-pin CPU fan connectors and 3 x 4-pin system fan connectors. Can anyone give me information on how well the Noctua fans run off of splitters? Any information, suggestions, etc would be appreciated greatly.


----------



## Worldwin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapalPastafaria*
> 
> Hello, I am about to purchase 8 Noctua fans for a build that I am working on. I plan on getting 7 of the NF-F12 industrialPPC-2000 PWM and one NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM for the back exhaust. 6 of the 7 NF-F12 fans will be mounted on 2 360 radiators at the top and front of my case. My motherboard is the MSI z-97 Mpower, it has 2 x 4-pin CPU fan connectors and 3 x 4-pin system fan connectors. Can anyone give me information on how well the Noctua fans run off of splitters? Any information, suggestions, etc would be appreciated greatly.


My standard PWM a14's run off splitters quite well. Mind you to becareful of using the "PWM" off the mobo if it is not the CPU FAN 1 or CPU OPTIONAL. The others "pwm" are actually voltage controlled with the 4th pin being a dummy. This may not be the case with your mobo however it is an issue with z87 mobos from all the manufacturers.

Link explains it better
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44589-Fan-Xpert-2-see-the-minimum-speed-of-my-NOCTUA-NF-A14-PWM-as-880-rpm

You are better off grabbing something like this:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html#blank


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worldwin*
> 
> My standard PWM a14's run off splitters quite well. Mind you to becareful of using the "PWM" off the mobo if it is not the CPU FAN 1 or CPU OPTIONAL. The others "pwm" are actually voltage controlled with the 4th pin being a dummy. This may not be the case with your mobo however it is an issue with z87 mobos from all the manufacturers.
> 
> Link explains it better
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?44589-Fan-Xpert-2-see-the-minimum-speed-of-my-NOCTUA-NF-A14-PWM-as-880-rpm
> 
> You are better off grabbing something like this:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html#blank


IIRC, the channel 1 red header is the one that actually has the speed signal.

So pretty much it dictates all of the other 7 fans (someone correct me if I'm wrong!).

I was deciding whether or not to use my mobo headers for an upcoming build since I wanted individual control for each PWM in my H440.


----------



## Chita Gonza

Hello guys I would like to join too. Using a D-14 and an NH-P12 F.L.X. on my side panel. Btw need any pictures to prove? Thanks for your time.


----------



## PapalPastafaria

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> IIRC, the channel 1 red header is the one that actually has the speed signal.
> 
> So pretty much it dictates all of the other 7 fans (someone correct me if I'm wrong!).


I'm ok with this, all the fans running at the same speed isn't a problem. Thank you for the concern.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapalPastafaria*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> IIRC, the channel 1 red header is the one that actually has the speed signal.
> 
> So pretty much it dictates all of the other 7 fans (someone correct me if I'm wrong!).
> 
> 
> 
> I'm ok with this, all the fans running at the same speed isn't a problem. Thank you for the concern.
Click to expand...

There are a few PWM controls that control using RPM signal, but do not. On most the PWM is not regulated by RPM, but is just a percentage of full speed. The "master" is more so we know what the fan rpm.









What this means is if we have 1200rpm,. 1800rpm and 2400rpm fans on a PWM splitter / hub at 50% signal they will be running at about 900rpm, 1200rpm and 1500rpm .. and the rpm we see is from the fan plugged into the "master" socket / header.

For example here are 1300rpm and 2500rpm PWM fans running on same signal percent. I don't remember what each percent was but the lowest at 10%

TY-140. TY-143
. 650rpm 660rpm
. 692. . . 711
. 806. . . 792
. 900. . . 990
. 998 . . 1269
1100 . . 1650
1203 . . 2000
1300 . . 2491

This probably doesn't matter for your application, but...
I often run different speed PWM fans on splitters / hubs. Usually the higher speed fan/s are on cooler/s and slower speed are case fans. This allow for case airflow to be higher than cooler without being much of any louder.

It is quite easy to monitor the other fans rpm. Simply remove the rpm lead from fan plug, put it into another plug, and plug that into another motherboard header. The header will read the rpm signal and display it in whatever software you are using.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Hey guys, what's the best way to hook up arrays of Noctuas? I have 14 of them, I need two seperate arrays, one for a 140.4 rad and one for a 140.3 rad. They are FLX style.

My Noctuas:


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There are a few PWM controls that control using RPM signal, but do not. On most the PWM is not regulated by RPM, but is just a percentage of full speed. The "master" is more so we know what the fan rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What this means is if we have 1200rpm,. 1800rpm and 2400rpm fans on a PWM splitter / hub at 50% signal they will be running at about 900rpm, 1200rpm and 1500rpm .. and the rpm we see is from the fan plugged into the "master" socket / header.
> 
> For example here are 1300rpm and 2500rpm PWM fans running on same signal percent. I don't remember what each percent was but the lowest at 10%
> 
> TY-140. TY-143
> . 650rpm 660rpm
> . 692. . . 711
> . 806. . . 792
> . 900. . . 990
> . 998 . . 1269
> 1100 . . 1650
> 1203 . . 2000
> 1300 . . 2491
> 
> This probably doesn't matter for your application, but...
> I often run different speed PWM fans on splitters / hubs. Usually the higher speed fan/s are on cooler/s and slower speed are case fans. This allow for case airflow to be higher than cooler without being much of any louder.
> 
> It is quite easy to monitor the other fans rpm. Simply remove the rpm lead from fan plug, put it into another plug, and plug that into another motherboard header. The header will read the rpm signal and display it in whatever software you are using.


+111 repped, wonderful info there.

Still a bit confused if I'm honest, but yeah ideally I would love have variable speeds for each set of fans.

Originally I had plan to just use each header on my mobo to control via ASUS' software.

Probably going to use the Swiftech's 8-fan splitter (linked above) to control the 5 Noctua 120mms (3 front, 2 top) I have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Hey guys, what's the best way to hook up arrays of Noctuas? I have 14 of them, I need two seperate arrays, one for a 140.4 rad and one for a 140.3 rad. They are FLX style.
> My Noctuas:


This is how tornadoes are formed. Be wary.









EDIT: I usually prefer pull configs so it's easier to clean radiators (no need to take fans off), but it's personal preference.

Definitely recommend a splitter like the one linked above to regulate speeds so they don't sound like a jet.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Hahah I'll baton down the hatches before starting the fans!





Is there a way to control non-PWM fans with PWM (say a small PCB board that uses PWM information to change voltage automatically on the fans) or should I look into a fan controller? If I'm going to do a fan controller, what are good ways to do it to manage 6 fans on chan1, 8 fans on chan2, and 3 to 4 fans on chan3 (case ventilation fans)? These are the Noctua 140mm FLXs.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> +111 repped, wonderful info there.
> 
> Still a bit confused if I'm honest, but yeah ideally I would love have variable speeds for each set of fans.


Thanks!
Always appreciate acknowledgement.









What is still a bit confusing? I know it's a lot to try and explain / understand.

FYI
Most motherboards and PWM fan combinations will work for 5-10 fans. This is because of motherboard PWM signal strength and fan signal strength requirements. Some motherboards have stronger signals and as a result can control more fans. Some fans require stronger signals so fewer of these fans can be controlled. To date I have not seen a good "PWM signal amp" or other solution to this problem. I was in contact with a Frenchman who was working on a temperature controlled PWM fan controller, but haven't heard from him in many months.


----------



## the matty

late to the party but i have an NHD14 using the stock fans: NF-P12 and ND-P14[IMG my little tower of power (minus the GPU to an extent) so id like to join too if it isn't too late


----------



## Aznlotus161

Lucked out and managed to grab a few Noctuas NF-F12s for cheap (shipping kind of suckered the steal but still okay!).


Not sure if the deal is still going on, but this was NCIX US' website.


----------



## Judelexan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Lucked out and managed to grab a few Noctuas NF-F12s for cheap (shipping kind of suckered the steal but still okay!).
> 
> 
> Not sure if the deal is still going on, but this was NCIX US' website.


Holy bananas that's a great deal, how bad was the shipping?

(The deal was gone by the time I checked)


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Judelexan*
> 
> Holy bananas that's a great deal, how bad was the shipping?
> 
> (The deal was gone by the time I checked)


$10.95 iirc, so comes out to $16.16 per fan for me which I thought wasn't too bad.

I was originally planing on buying some Cougar Vortexes at $15 a piece, but oh well this should be just as good if not better.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Wish I'd have ordered there, would have saved like an extra $1.50 a fan... I still need 3 more noctuas, probably AF models for exhausting air out of the case.


----------



## Judelexan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> $10.95 iirc, so comes out to $16.16 per fan for me which I thought wasn't too bad.
> 
> I was originally planing on buying some Cougar Vortexes at $15 a piece, but oh well this should be just as good if not better.


That's a steal!

Back when I put 7 on my rads I thought I was getting a deal at $21 each including shipping, but that was a year or two ago.


----------



## Oubadah

..


----------



## BrettJSr72

What type of case is that? The only "true" PWM controller I've found is made by Aquacomputer


----------



## doyll

Silverstone FT02

Says so in his sig too.


----------



## Judelexan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oubadah*
> 
> Does anyone know of a good basic controller that uses true PWM control? I want something like the Zalman PWM Mate, only I can't buy that one anywhere. I've got four NF-A14 PWMs that I intended to control dynamically via the CPU header on my motherboard, but I can't get them to spin low enough without interfering with the CPU fan's performance.
> 
> EDIT: Can the Noctua low noise adapters be used in conjunction with PWM control? (ie. just make the fan operate in a lower RPM range)


Are you sure the other headers on your motherboard aren't PWM? If not then you don't have a lot of options. How was it interfering with the CPU fan performance? The LNA's are absolutely compatable with PWM so long as they are the 4-pin ones that came with the fans.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I take it there's no PCB board that takes a PWM signal, and regulates voltage for non-PWM fans (such as my Noctua FLX's?)

What are some decent fan controllers? I don't mind a screen as long as it can be shut off. I need to control 8 fans on one rad, 6 on the other, and 3 exhaust fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> I take it there's no PCB board that takes a PWM signal, and regulates voltage for non-PWM fans (such as my Noctua FLX's?)
> 
> What are some decent fan controllers? I don't mind a screen as long as it can be shut off. I need to control 8 fans on one rad, 6 on the other, and 3 exhaust fans.


Phanteks sells a PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub. It will control up to 11 fans / 30 watts. I suspect a couple to be ran on same PWM signal from motherboard, but haven't tried it, or know of anyone who has.
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html


----------



## Judelexan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> I take it there's no PCB board that takes a PWM signal, and regulates voltage for non-PWM fans (such as my Noctua FLX's?)
> 
> What are some decent fan controllers? I don't mind a screen as long as it can be shut off. I need to control 8 fans on one rad, 6 on the other, and 3 exhaust fans.


Edit: I totally misread your post, my mistake! Reading comprehension FTL. I'll leave the following up in case anyone finds it useful.

Swiftech makes an 8 way PWM splitter for about $10, so with a couple of those you effectively run all your fans off of the single header, but you wouldn't get the individual fan RPM granularity (I think) you are looking for.

You can plug in any 4 pin PWM fan into any 3 pin header and control the RPMs from voltage (turning the knob down or what have you), but that defeats the advantage of PWM.

PWM does not use increasing or decreasing amounts of voltage to control fan speed, it rapidly pulses the power on and off at varying rates in order to control RPM. This allows PWM fans to run at a lower RPM at idle, since you are never reducing the power fully below 12V (or 7 with the LNA, I think).

Also, there is anecdotal evidence that using voltage to control a fan with a PWM motor (like yours) on a 3 pin header can cause a ticking or buzzing sound from the PWM motor. Alas I have not tried this.

What is your motherboard model?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

lol it's alright. Yeah I was reading about the ticking/clicking that could occur using PWM on 3 pins and vice versa. I figured I'd go FLX and just get a fan controller, as I'm going to have a dual-radiator in a single loop, being able to turn off an entire radiator at night (when a single 140.4 45mm thick rad or the 140.3 60mm thick rad can handle the thermal load without a problem) is going to be a huge bonus. I was always wondering though if PWM could ever be used to send a signal to a powered PCB board, that would then use that signal to change its own voltage and control non-PWM fans without having the issues you were talking about.


----------



## doyll

I seriously doubt you could run 2 of the 8-fan Swiftech splitters on a single PWM signal. 8-10 fans is pretty much the most a single signal has strength to control. On some motherboards the signal isn't strong enough to run 4 of some PWM fans.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

What I am talking about isn't a "Splitter", hence why i said "powered PCB". I'm talking an actual piece of hardware that has a the ability to register a change in the PWM signal, and then, with its own chip or whatever, change the voltage regulating the non-PWM fans, so basically you're not controlling the fans at all via PWM, instead the PWM signal is telling a chip to change the voltage. I don't know if anything like this exists, but it's a cool idea for someone to develop if it doesn't.


----------



## Oubadah

..


----------



## doyll

Take a look at the Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub. It uses the PWM signal from motherboard and 12v power from PSU to regulate the speed of 3-pin fans.
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html

Not a lot of information out there about them but they really do control the speed of 3-pin fans using PWM signal to regulate the voltage.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Judelexan*
> 
> That's a steal!
> 
> Back when I put 7 on my rads I thought I was getting a deal at $21 each including shipping, but that was a year or two ago.


Hey man if you are interested in some more Noctuas









Alright guys NCIX US has the Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm (4-pin) for $15.99.

*Link*.


----------



## Judelexan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> Hey man if you are interested in some more Noctuas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright guys NCIX US has the Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm (4-pin) for $15.99.
> 
> *Link*.


My head just exploded.


----------



## Judelexan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oubadah*
> 
> As far as I know there aren't any motherboards that provide more than one PWM controlled header, beyond a possible CPU_OPT which might mirror the CPU_FAN at best (my board can't even manage that much). Someone tell me why this is apparently such a massive hurdle for mobo manufacturers. Is there some technical reason why multiple PWM headers are impossible, or are they just stupid? People have been complaining about this for years, and you'd think that one company would jump at the opportunity to use it as a marketing point.


Cost or laziness more likely.

Some do. My Gigabyte G1 Sniper 3 (idiotic name, great board) has 5 PWM headers controlled by 3 PWM channels. Two are paired up and I control them through Speedfan 4.5 pretty well.

This is why I generally stick to Gigabyte boards, as the ASUS boards I've bought have a single PWM header for the CPU. They then, oddly, put 4 pin non-PWM headers on the board for reasons I sure can't figure out.

Just my experience though, I have not tested every board.

EDIT: Did a little digging, and it turns out my system fan headers may not be true PWM controlled. While they can be controlled through the PWM channels (SpeedFan), the manual (and Gigabyte documentation) dances around the subject.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Judelexan*
> 
> My head just exploded.


Just received the NF-F12s from my original post yesterday afternoon.

Aside from the poor handling of the box







, the individual boxes of fans themselves were fine and unharmed.

Definitely happy with the purchase now that I have had a first look at "Noctua quality".


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Silverstone FT02
> 
> Says so in his sig too.


reading on an iPhone, no signature seen.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> [
> 
> Says so in his sig too.


reading on an iPhone, no signature seen.[/quote]
Your problem, not mine.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Saying this with respect to people that use fan controllers.







Personally think this is a lot of sales non since from MFG selling hardware for air or liquid cooled systems.









Spend a lot of money on High Quality fans are very efficient and quiet such as Noctuas NF-S12A, NF-P12, NF-F-12 or any High Quality fan can list more no point.

Going to use the old Ben Franklin Method why to use a Power Distribution Block rather than expensive fan control hardware and software air or liquid cooled.

1. Fan Controller adds additional cost to the build. $65.00 to 275.00 plus.








2. Additional wiring that needs to be managed in the build process.
3. Increased possibility of electrical issue.
3. Additional software to run in the back ground uses more resources.
4. Additional hardware mounted in the 5.25 bay does not improve the look of the build.
5. If water cooled controller additional fittings and tubing add to the build cost, the build is not as clean.
6. Software not being properly tested from the vender prior to release.
7. More points for hardware failure.

1. Power Distribution Block is less expensive.
2. Can install best location for cable management.
3. Power direct from the PSU
4. Less points for hardware failure.
5. No software issues or up dates.
6. Management Free.
7. No CPU or memory resources being used by the software.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

You can find Phanteks PWM to 3pin controllers (controls up to 11 fans) for 15$ a piece on amazon.


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> reading on an iPhone, no signature seen.


Your problem, not mine.







[/quote] NTFHOTBNB


----------



## BrettJSr72

Has anyone that's switched from the retail version to the industrial noticed any significant changes? Noise. Temperatures. Smoother running or power consumption. I ask as I'm considering switching out 7 NF-F12's, 3 NF-A14,s, 1 NF-S12A and 1 NF-A15


----------



## doyll

Know a little about them but your use of internet / text slang puts me off. I assume you know OCN rules and guides say not to use it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Saying this with respect to people that use fan controllers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally think this is a lot of sales non since from MFG selling hardware for air or liquid cooled systems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spend a lot of money on High Quality fans are very efficient and quiet such as Noctuas NF-S12A, NF-P12, NF-F-12 or any High Quality fan can list more no point.
> 
> Going to use the old Ben Franklin Method why to use a Power Distribution Block rather than expensive fan control hardware and software air or liquid cooled.
> 
> 1. Fan Controller adds additional cost to the build. $65.00 to 275.00 plus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Additional wiring that needs to be managed in the build process.
> 3. Increased possibility of electrical issue.
> 3. Additional software to run in the back ground uses more resources.
> 4. Additional hardware mounted in the 5.25 bay does not improve the look of the build.
> 5. If water cooled controller additional fittings and tubing add to the build cost, the build is not as clean.
> 6. Software not being properly tested from the vender prior to release.
> 7. More points for hardware failure.
> 
> 1. Power Distribution Block is less expensive.
> 2. Can install best location for cable management.
> 3. Power direct from the PSU
> 4. Less points for hardware failure.
> 5. No software issues or up dates.
> 6. Management Free.
> 7. No CPU or memory resources being used by the software.


1. Both motherboards and graphic cards have fan control built into them
2. Not really. 1 chance in a 1,000,000 to 1 chance is 800,000 .. not enough to matter.
3. No aditional software unless you want to use like ET6 to set bios while in OS.
4. No extra hardware in 5.25 bay.
5. Nothing to add as stated before.
6. No software as stated before. Only the motherboard and graphics card bios.
7. Only a few additional connections if using splitters or hubs.

1. That is what splitter or hub is.
2. Same size as PWM splitter or Phanteks hub.
3. PWM splitter and Phanteks hub us PSU power too.
4. Same as using motherboard and / or graphics card fan control PWM signal.
5. Unless updating motherbord and / or graphics card bios.
6. "Set it and forget it." in bios.

End result is fans are speed controlled not just on CPU cooler and graphics card, but case too. Why run case fans at constant speed when the components they are supplying are changing their fan speed dependent on cooling needs? Makes perfect sense to do the same with case fans that are supplying the air to these automatic speed controlled components. That way as components use more air to keep cool the case fans supply more air too.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I purchased 3 more NF-P14's, but they don't work for my exhaust very well (I thought they'd fit since they had the 120mm mounting holes but I wasn't thinking clearly at the time of order, I forgot to do some measurements.) I figure I can use them for awhile but I'd like to replace them with 120mm fans, but all the 120mm fans are like $5-10 more than their 140mm counterparts. Gonna have to scrape some money and get 3 A12's eventually.


----------



## Goggle Eye

End result is fans are speed controlled not just on CPU cooler and graphics card, but case too. Why run case fans at constant speed when the components they are supplying are changing their fan speed dependent on cooling needs?









Looked at the Phanteks Hub for three pin fans. Would not work well with PWM fans.

11 Case fans Noctua PWM + 2 CPU fans on the NH-D14.

There is 4 PWM fan headers + 2 Optional on the mother board. Not counting the 2 CPU fan headers being used by the NH-D14.

With your expertise what would you recommend using a Swiftech 8 way PWM PDB? Could connect the PWM on the PDB to the channel 1 fan header control the fans thru threw BIOS.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html#blank

Thank You







+1


----------



## Judelexan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Looked at the Phanteks Hub for three pin fans. Would not work well with PWM fans.
> 
> 11 Case fans Noctua PWM + 2 CPU fans on the NH-D14.
> 
> There is 4 PWM fan headers + 2 Optional on the mother board. Not counting the 2 CPU fan headers being used by the NH-D14.
> 
> With your expertise what would you recommend using a Swiftech 8 way PWM PDB? Could connect the PWM on the PDB to the channel 1 fan header control the fans thru threw BIOS.


The only true PWM on your motherboard will come out of the CPU 4-pin. The other 4-pin "PWM" slots work by modulating the 12V line on the 2nd pin. So unless you plug the 11 PWM case fans together on the CPU fan, it is irrelevant whether you use a 3-pin splitter or a 4-pin splitter.

Bitspower has some nice molex/sata powered fan hubs, with a wide variety of pin configurations.

I have the Swiftech 8-way splitter and it will ONLY work on the CPU 4-pin header.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

The PWM splitter is just as it's called, it's a splitter. It will split your PWM signal up. It is meant for 4-pin fans only and will not accommodate 3pin fans and your max power is your CPU Fan Header's max. The Phanteks fanhub is a PWM CONVERTER, it takes the PWM signal and converts it to an appropriate voltage for controlling 3pin fans. It will control 3pin fans via voltage through a PWM signal.


----------



## doyll

Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter uses same PWM signal to all fans. PWM signals vary between motherboard manufactures and signal PCBs vary between fan manufacutres. Some motherboard to splitter to fans capabilty can vary from 2 to 10+ fans being controlled, but there is a limit. I've found it is generally safe to figure between 7 and 10 fans will usually work. More fans depends on what fans and what motherboard is in use.

Good rule of thumb is only CPU fan headers are PWM, but not always. Sometimes they are not, or only one is PWM .. and there are a few motherboards out now that have true PWM control on other fan headers. Oh, and having 4-pin headers does not mean they are PWM *many are not!*

I have seen many people have problems with the Phanteks PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub .. not because of the hub, but because the motherboard they are trying to use them on do not have compatible / true PWM control.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter uses same PWM signal to all fans. PWM signals vary between motherboard manufactures and signal PCBs vary between fan manufacutres.

May or may not work?

Good rule of thumb is only CPU fan headers are PWM, but not always. Sometimes they are not, or only one is PWM.

So how do you figure out if all or part of the fan headers is PWM. If a Swiftech will work or not before making the purchase? Have to import shipping is high.

Asus Rampage 4 Black Edition. The manual does not say anything about the type of signal being used.


----------



## doyll

Best way to test that I know of is to use 12v power from PSU to fan and pin-4 (PWM signal) from motherboard.


I've also had problems getting Swiftech PWM hubs and generally use Gelid PWM splitters, often using two plugged together to handle up to 7 fans.


----------



## Judelexan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sometimes they are not, or only one is PWM .. and there are a few motherboards out now that have true PWM control on other fan headers..


Where are they? I want to give them all my money.

Google was not very helpful in this search, kind of an obscure subject.


----------



## doyll

I'm told Asus Z97 boards are all PWM, but have not personally verified this. 18th column in link below. Now how many of these are PWM power versus PWM signal is another matter of contention. PWM signal control means we can use PSU 12v power instead of motherboard; but PWM power control is pulsing the 12v power from motherboard.:
http://www.asus.com/us/site/motherboards/Z97/comparison/
Someone with an ASRock or MSI mini-ITX or micro-ATX has 1 CPU fan and 1 CHA fan header that are PWM. Sorry, I don't have more details.


----------



## Judelexan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm told Asus Z97 boards are all PWM, but have not personally verified this. 18th column in link below. Now how many of these are PWM power versus PWM signal is another matter of contention. PWM signal control means we can use PSU 12v power instead of motherboard; but PWM power control is pulsing the 12v power from motherboard.:
> http://www.asus.com/us/site/motherboards/Z97/comparison/
> Someone with an ASRock or MSI mini-ITX or micro-ATX has 1 CPU fan and 1 CHA fan header that are PWM. Sorry, I don't have more details.


Thanks; you're right about the 12v power modulation.

They get away with the marketing claim by _technically_ using PWM. Unfortunately it isn't the kind of PWM that takes advantage of the fancy PWM chips on our fans, making my 7 F12's cry. But again, it is _technically_ PWM.

An easy way to test if your rig is already together is to use SpeedFan. When I turn my pump (CPU PWM plug) below 15% it just drops to minimum RPM. When I turn my fans (F12 PWMs) below 40%, they stop spinning.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Best way to test that I know of is to use 12v power from PSU to fan and pin-4 (PWM signal) from motherboard.
> 
> 
> I've also had problems getting Swiftech PWM hubs and generally use Gelid PWM splitters, often using two plugged together to handle up to 7 fans.


Checked the fan headers using a Noctua PWM fan. Fan headers 1 thru 4 are throttling the RPM on the fan did not check the auxiliary fan headers. Would I need to use the CPU 1 Fan header or could I use two of these and connect them to the 4 pin PWM fan headers 1 & 2? The signal may be strong enough?

You are talking about the PWM 1-to-4 Splitter (CA-PWM-03) Please Confirm.

http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=11&id=63&tab=1

Think can get them local sent an e mail to the Geild Rep here.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Checked the fan headers using a Noctua PWM fan. Fan headers 1 thru 4 are throttling the RPM on the fan did not check the auxiliary fan headers. Would I need to use the CPU 1 Fan header or could I use two of these and connect them to the 4 pin PWM fan headers 1 & 2? The signal may be strong enough?
> 
> You are talking about the PWM 1-to-4 Splitter (CA-PWM-03) Please Confirm.
> 
> http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=11&id=63&tab=1
> 
> Think can get them local sent an e mail to the Geild Rep here.


Obviously you are not reading and understanding what I said.
*"Best way to test that I know of is to use 12v power from PSU to fan and pin-4 (PWM signal) from motherboard."*
Your testing does not prove the headers are supplying a signal on pin-4 and constant 12v power on pin-2. The header could just as easily have pin-4 doing nothing and pin-2 either varying the voltage or pulsing the 12v power gong to fan.


That is why I said 12v power from PSU.

You could remove the pin from pin-4 on fan plug, then plug in the fan to the 4-pin headers. If it s a PWM signal controlled header, your fan will run at full speed on the constant 12v power on pin-2. But if the headers are throttling the rpm they are doing it by either changing the voltage on pin-2 or pulsing the 12v power to fan .. not using the PWM PCB in the PWM fan at all.

Yes, that is the PWM splitter I suggested.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Simple enough. Have some Yate Loons 3 pin fans laying around there nice and noisy try one of those and run some test on the fan headers. Hopefully the 3 pin fan runs at full RPM only. Change the BIOS settings to silent mode.


----------



## Aznlotus161

I wanted your guys' opinion for my air flow.

Pulled the trigger on components days ago, looking for suggestions on my current plans for air flow now that my parts are set in stone.


----------



## Psyckosama

Just an FYI for anyone interested, Noctua fans are on sale at NCIXUS.com.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyckosama*
> 
> Just an FYI for anyone interested, Noctua fans are on sale at NCIXUS.com.


Links here:

Noctua NF-F12 PWM 120mm for $14.99: http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=66920

Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm for $16.99: http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=82803&vpn=NF-A14%20PWM&manufacture=Noctua&promoid=1469


----------



## Psyckosama

Seems to be most of the line actually.

Everything in red.

http://www.ncixus.com/search/?categoryid=0&q=Noctua


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznlotus161*
> 
> I wanted your guys' opinion for my air flow.
> 
> Pulled the trigger on components days ago, looking for suggestions on my current plans for air flow now that my parts are set in stone.


Well, you have one exhaust with an area of 140sq cm and 5 intake with an area of 500sq cm. Where is the other 360sq cm of area for the air to get out of case?


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Well, you have one exhaust with an area of 140sq cm and 5 intake with an area of 500sq cm. Where is the other 360sq cm of area for the air to get out of case?


Originally I had it planned out like this, however people have been recommending that all my fans be intakes for positive pressure.



Really neat diagram doyll, I love it thanks.


----------



## doyll

No problem. It give a visual of what the openings the air moves through looks like.








There are other openings in the case letting air out as well, but the areas need to be similar. Fans increase the airflow thorough an opening / vent .. and positive pressure in case is good if all intakes are filtered. But the difference in pressure is very little. Kinda like opening the window in a car at speed and feeling the pressure difference in your ears.


----------



## Aznlotus161

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No problem. It give a visual of what the openings the air moves through looks like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are other openings in the case letting air out as well, but the areas need to be similar. Fans increase the airflow thorough an opening / vent .. and positive pressure in case is good if all intakes are filtered. But the difference in pressure is very little. Kinda like opening the window in a car at speed and feeling the pressure difference in your ears.


I actually already bought dust filters in anticipation of having so many intakes







...might need to change my configs and see what works best.

What's the methodology in calculating sq cm of intake versus that of the outtake?

I would love to crunch some numbers and see what configs I can get away with.


----------



## doyll

There is a link in my sig about case cooling that might be of interest.

The total area of intakes need to be similar to total area of exhausts. Fan CFM is very hard to accurately calculate because the resistance is not a known figure for calculations. All we can do is guess at what a fan rated at 80cfm will do behind a grill (approx. 15% reduction), filter (approx. 15% reduction) often a 2nd grill (approx 15% reduction) fan running at 900rpm instead of 1300rpm (30% reduction) etc. Also how much the cfm is reduced is very dependent on what the static pressure of fan is. The higher the static pressure rating means less reduction in cfm as restriction increases.

Lots of educated guessing. Trial and error testing is best .. and using a remote sensor to monitor cooler intake air temp with fans running at different speed and different loads on CPU and/or GPU.


----------



## SLOWION

I've officially had my first experience with Noctua fans. Great products















I know they deserve a more worthy case, maybe some day













I made a video too about these NF-S12A fans if you're interested


----------



## Goggle Eye

Jerry nice video. Noctua fans are really nice tech support if you ever need it is top shelf.


----------



## SLOWION

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goggle Eye*
> 
> Jerry nice video. Noctua fans are really nice tech support if you ever need it is top shelf.


Thanks! That's also good to know


----------



## MathKiller

Hello ! This is upgraded Case ventilation of my PC
Bottom: Noctua P12 PWM (300-1300 RPM)
Rear: Noctua P12 PWM (300-1300 RPM)
Upside: 2 x Noctua A15 PWM (300-1200 RPM)
CPU: Noctua NH-D15 - 2 x Noctua A15 PWM (300-1500 RPM)
Case: Cooler Master Cosmos RC-1000 Pure
Motherboard: Asus Z97-A
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Tactical LP 2 x 8 GB 2133 Mhz
Videocard: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 G1.Gaming
Soundcard: Lynx Studio Lynx Two-A
PSU: Seasonic Fanless 460 Gold


----------



## xhaydenx

Hi. I'm new to the site. I just had a quick question about replacing the fan that came with my Noctua NH-C12P SE14 Cooler.

The fan on it is starting to catch a little. I think its the ball bearings starting to seize up, so I want to get a new fan for it. Can I use one of the other 140mm Noctua fans for this? Has anyone done that?

Thanks.


----------



## Worldwin

Just contact Noctua support. Assuming you still have proof of purchase theyl send you a new fan (as the METAL bearing should not seize up). Also the fan should not catch on what I presume would be the heatsink itself. If it is catching on the heatsink, move it a little until it stops catching on the heatsink.


----------



## xhaydenx

Thanks for the reply. The only problem with returning it for a replacement is that it would take a while for the fan to get to them and then initiate the process of sending it back to me. I'm in Australia. I couldn't go that long without the PC as I use it for work as well.


----------



## Worldwin

Ugh, bad fans arn't returned to Noctua. What they do is send you a new fan and you just have to prove that the old one can no longer be used (they normally request a photo of the old fan with a blade broken off to prove that it will no longer be functional). That is how the "RMA" with Noctua goes from what I have read. This is also a reason why Noctua has the reputation for great customer service.


----------



## xhaydenx

Oh wow. I didn't realize that that is how they handle defects. I figured I'd have to send it off and wait. I filled out their RMA form. I can't really see how I can even prove the problem with the fan, so I just did my best to explain it. Hopefully I hear back from them soon.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I knew an aluminum bike-frame company that did the same. I had a frame delivered, and it was damaged during delivery at the head joint where the handlebars go through the tube had been dented inward, and since it was aluminum there was no way to really fix it, I took a photo and they sent me a new bike frame w/o me having to ship the old one back.

I took the frame that was dented to my buddy who worked at a Caterpillar tractor parts and repair machining company at the time, he used some special tools to rebend it and reshape the tube. I was able to get my best friend a free bike frame.

I don't think he'll want any Noctua fans though lol.


----------



## xhaydenx

So I took everyone's advice and got in touch with Noctua. I was worried they wouldn't accept my invoice, as there isn't really much on the image I sent them to show that I bought anything. Due to the nature of it, I couldn't really prove the problem to them either.

But they got back to me a day later and said they were sending me out the same fan as I had before, but the PWM version. Pretty incredible customer service. Think I might order a few more of their 120mms off amazon soon.


----------



## BenjaminBenj

Hi Everyone,

Thought I'd share the few iterations to come on this mini-fan project for my new CaseLabs build. Like the majority who have inquired, I'm not very into the brown two tone Noctua fan colors, so I'm take a leap forward on this one. Rather than disassemble the fan or dropping it into a pool of dye as is with distilled water, I'm going to actually tape her up and spray paint the sides/parts as needed. I sprayed the first coat of primer this morning, and just added a layer of blue to the entire backside (this is the side showing through my front grill). I'm going to spray the outer shell a darker blue after the initial layer sets. But I'm actually only going to spray the outer edges and sides... I'm leaving the internal sides alone.

As soon as coloring is complete, I'll obviously let her rip and see how she functions/sounds. This is a "test" 60mm Noctua fan, I'm going to proceed with my x2 140s and x2 120s if it works out well.


----------



## PeterMac

Which fan do you recomended for FD Arc Midi R2, I want to replace orginal fans for now only front intake fans, I thinking between Noctua NF-A14 FLX and NF-A14 PWM.
I want to connect them to motherboard Asus P8P67 Deluxe, but I'm not sure does this motherboard can control fans by voltage, I heard somewhere dosen't support voltage control so maybe better will be PWM version.

Does is possible to use two Noctua L.N.A adapters first to reduce A14 PWM model to 1200RPM, and second U.L.N.A adapter to reduce RPM to 950RPM if I will want to use this fan to use in 3pin header in motherboard ?


----------



## HITTI

Just jumped on 2 x 140mm NF-A14 FLX fans. Replacing the two front 140mm fans in my 750D. I've read they're really good at pushing and pulling thru dust filter screens and rads.

I will be ordering 2x120mm and another NF-A14 FLX soon.

How much air intake should I expect with these vs stock 750D 140mm fans?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterMac*
> 
> Which fan do you recomended for FD Arc Midi R2, I want to replace orginal fans for now only front intake fans, I thinking between Noctua NF-A14 FLX and NF-A14 PWM.
> I want to connect them to motherboard Asus P8P67 Deluxe, but I'm not sure does this motherboard can control fans by voltage, I heard somewhere dosen't support voltage control so maybe better will be PWM version.
> 
> Does is possible to use two Noctua L.N.A adapters first to reduce A14 PWM model to 1200RPM, and second U.L.N.A adapter to reduce RPM to 950RPM if I will want to use this fan to use in 3pin header in motherboard ?


You could use PWM fans and control them the same as CPU cooler's PWM fans using a PWM splitter with PSU power. Link in sig explains it. Works really nice .. fans speed up and slow down same as CPU fans.


----------



## PeterMac

Thanks for answer, yes I know but does it save to connect three fans to one header on motherboard ? does it not to much for one output









Here is pic from instruction manual to my mainboard Asus P8P67 Deluxe



Also I was thinking to buy A14 FLX instead PWM and connect them to CHA_FAN1, but I'm not sure does this header support voltage control in fan with 3-pin connector ?

Also I want ask about Noctua Redux fans,

With this comparision NH-P14S is better than NH-A14 FLX for example in same dB noise for example if we compare at ~16dB


----------



## pony-tail

I am inquiring as to whether Noctua has a smaller ( but still pretty capable) cooler than NH-D14 .
I went to fit one of these only to find that it covers the 16x pcie slot that the video card goes in .
I currently have a Coolermaster hyper 212 on it but with summer arriving ( so far the highest ambient temp has been 32c but 40c is expected mid summer ) The 212 does not cut it with a 30+ ambient ( had peaks of 90c running prime ) . so I am looking for a cooler substantially ,more capable than a 212 .
The machine is an Asus Gryphon Z97 in a Corsair case with a 4790k cpu .
The pic below should indicate how little clearance I have .


----------



## HITTI

Installed my noctua's NF-A14 FLX last night. They're nice looking and damn huge 140mm, insane size from looking at 80mm then to 120mm and now 140mm.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Installed my noctua's NF-A14 FLX last night. They're nice looking and damn huge 140mm, insane size from looking at 80mm then to 120mm and now 140mm


are they fixed rpm fans ?
Mine are NF-A14 PWM - I have 2 in the roof and 2 in the front . My case is a 350D micro Atx though .


----------



## HITTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pony-tail*
> 
> are they fixed rpm fans ?
> Mine are NF-A14 PWM - I have 2 in the roof and 2 in the front . My case is a 350D micro Atx though .


What do you mean fixed rpm fans?

These are them
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Cooling-NF-A14-FLX/dp/B00AEGRGNO

I have them running full rpm off the motherboard header to a Y fan connector.


----------



## PeterMac

HITTI - do you hear them much at 1200RPM ?
I can't decide which to buy NH-A14 PWM or FLX to my Arc Midi R2, PWM version are I think more future proff, but if I want to use them without PWM they are 1500RPM so to much for case fans, I'd like to have no more that 900 RPM.

Currenty I'm using Antec Twelve Hundred case with all stock fans Antec 120mm TriCool (3x120mm front intake, 2x120mm rear, 2x200 top) all fans on lowest speed ~1200RPM.
How do you think when I will switch case to Arc Midi R2 with all Noctua fans running at ~900RPM does will be more quiter ?


----------



## HITTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterMac*
> 
> HITTI - do you hear them much at 1200RPM ?
> I can't decide which to buy NH-A14 PWM or FLX to my Arc Midi R2, PWM version are I think more future proff, but if I want to use them without PWM they are 1500RPM so to much for case fans, I'd like to have no more that 900 RPM.


I hear my other corsair 750D case stock fan & my EK fans that came with my L240 watercooling kit over the noctuas. Also what I noticed, exchanging the front stock corsair 140mm fans to the noctuas, is I can hear my watercooling pump much more. Meaning, they are pretty quiet to me. I am use to hearing loud fans for about a year from mining litecoins, it's just hard for me to determine if my fans are quiet or not.

Here this might be able to help you to determine.






Edit:
Btw, these fans "NH-A14" are 140mm just to let you know.


----------



## PeterMac

Thank you for reply, yes I know they are 140mm will fit to Arc Midi R2







but can't decide which one will be the best, NH-A14 FLX or NH-A14 PWM or NH-P14s Redux.

NH-A14 FLX - no PWM :/
NH-A14 PWM - little too fast 1500RPM without adapters.
NH-P14s - no antivibration pads, no L.N.A adapters, accesories

For PWM version I need to buy also Swiftech Splitter to connect them all 4-5 fans in case, and connect them to CPU_FAN header, on CPU I have Noctua NH-U12P cooler with NF-P12 fan 3pin + U.L.N.A adapter so I can connect it to any fan header on motherboard with 3 pin.

I also watched this video, and they are really queit, but as we compare with Noctua Redux NH-P14s for example comparing at same noise in dB for example let's say at ~16dB then Redux have much better CFM. How do you think about that

Here is NH-P14s Redux, at ~16dB it has 62CFM, compare to A14 FLX with only 49CFM.


----------



## HITTI

I have no idea how to think about it, sorry about that.


----------



## PeterMac

No problem, I hope maybe someone else answer


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterMac*
> 
> Thank you for reply, yes I know they are 140mm will fit to Arc Midi R2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but can't decide which one will be the best, NH-A14 FLX or NH-A14 PWM or NH-P14s Redux.
> 
> NH-A14 FLX - no PWM :/
> NH-A14 PWM - little too fast 1500RPM without adapters.
> NH-P14s - no antivibration pads, no L.N.A adapters, accesories
> 
> For PWM version I need to buy also Swiftech Splitter to connect them all 4-5 fans in case, and connect them to CPU_FAN header, on CPU I have Noctua NH-U12P cooler with NF-P12 fan 3pin + U.L.N.A adapter so I can connect it to any fan header on motherboard with 3 pin.
> 
> I also watched this video, and they are really queit, but as we compare with Noctua Redux NH-P14s for example comparing at same noise in dB for example let's say at ~16dB then Redux have much better CFM. How do you think about that
> 
> Here is NH-P14s Redux, at ~16dB it has 62CFM, compare to A14 FLX with only 49CFM.


Hunt around and you can find the NF-P14 (non-Redux version) for around $14 a pop, they include LNA and ULNA adapters, as well as antivibration pads.


----------



## PeterMac

P14 FLX wihout PWM ? instead A14 FLX hmm







you think will be better ? No I want PWM version with max 1200RPM without adapters, so only choice is I think Redux P14s PWM.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Depends on how you want to control them I guess. If you want PWM the FLX won't work unless you're using something that converts the PWM signal into a voltage, well not really converts it, rather reads the PWM and then controls the voltage of the fans (maybe via a chip or something, I don't know how those controllers work), I know you can't convert a PWM signal over to voltage directly heh.

I Believe the corsair fan hub is able to control FLX fans (or any 3-pin fan) by reading the signal from the CPU-4pin fan header and controlling the voltage based on that PWM signal. When you've got 16 fans in your system it helps with the expandability. Of course there are other PWM splitters that require the fans to all be 4-pin fans. Depends on how you want to configure your system I guess.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> What do you mean fixed rpm fans?
> 
> These are them
> http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Cooling-NF-A14-FLX/dp/B00AEGRGNO
> 
> I have them running full rpm off the motherboard header to a Y fan connector.


Thank you ! The link answered my question .
yes they are they use the LNA to control speed ( 3 pin fans )


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterMac*
> 
> HITTI - do you hear them much at 1200RPM ?
> I can't decide which to buy NH-A14 PWM or FLX to my Arc Midi R2, PWM version are I think more future proff, but if I want to use them without PWM they are 1500RPM so to much for case fans, I'd like to have no more that 900 RPM.
> 
> Currenty I'm using Antec Twelve Hundred case with all stock fans Antec 120mm TriCool (3x120mm front intake, 2x120mm rear, 2x200 top) all fans on lowest speed ~1200RPM.
> How do you think when I will switch case to Arc Midi R2 with all Noctua fans running at ~900RPM does will be more quiter ?


I have the PWM ones at idle I can not hear them at all - but when the PC heats up they become quite loud , That said if I set the fans to silent in the bios they stay very quiet .
I am unfortunately having issues with my CPU running very hot ( peaks of 90c on prime ) so I have been letting them scream .
Good quiet fans in normal use ( not silent).


----------



## PeterMac

@Pony-tail - maybe because you have small factor case ? how many fans you have installed ?


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterMac*
> 
> @Pony-tail - maybe because you have small factor case ? how many fans you have installed ?


4 x 140mm pwm noctuas .
2 top and 2 front + stock 120mm rear .
Ironically I am getting 1c to 2c hotter temps in the 350D corsair than I was with The Antec NSK 3480 that I had it in originally and it only had a 120mm tricool exhaust ( I was running a Radeon 280x in it I have a GTX770 nVidia in the rebuild - could be the difference there .
I re-cased it because it was running hot (in the Antec ) I thought the 350D would cool heaps better - but it is close enough to be about the same .
Gpu runs cooler in the Corsair than the Antec , as does the VRMs .


----------



## doyll

Optimizing case airflow is the key .. and supplying more case airflow than the component fans use. Link in sig may be helpful.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Optimizing case airflow is the key .. and supplying more case airflow than the component fans use. Link in sig may be helpful.


I have pretty good case flow - Although I am running a slightly negative pressure setup .
The article your sig links to is interesting .
But my issue is simply that the 212evo runs too hot on the D.C. ( was fine on the original 4670 ) and due to limitations of my board ( an Asus Gryphon Z97 ) any cooler over 126mm across fouls the graphics card in the first pcie slot . Meaning that I can only use 120mm fan based coolers unless they are offset so they clear the GPU - so far I have not found a suitable cooler available in Au that significantly out performs the 212evo . I am wishing to avoid AIO water coolers and even more so custom water coolers .
The plan was to keep it simple and clean .
Any way as for the Closed loop coolers I was told on another forum that the Corsair H60 does not out perform a 212evo . I know a H55 is just shy of the 212 so it does not come as a surprise . ( I have one in a Thermaltake Core V1 with an i5 but that is a whole different story )


----------



## PeterMac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Optimizing case airflow is the key .. and supplying more case airflow than the component fans use. Link in sig may be helpful.


doyll - maybe you will be know that, can I control fans by voltage in Asus P8P67 Deluxe connecting them to CHA_FAN1 ?


----------



## doyll

What is your cooler's intake air temp when CPU temps are at maximum?

What is the fan layout?

I would suggest
* 2x front intake
* vent closest to front on top intake
* rear exhaust
* remove all unused PCIe slot covers.
Experiment with other combinations, but I think this will be the best .. assuming your fans have enough oomph to push air through the PCIe slots and back vent in top.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterMac*
> 
> doyll - maybe you will be know that, can I control fans by voltage in Asus P8P67 Deluxe connecting them to CHA_FAN1 ?


Have you read the manual?
Sections:
1.3.1
1.3.4
3.2.1
3.2.2
3.6 Monitor Menu
4.3.6 FAN Xpert
4.7
Most of the above give information about fan speed control.


----------



## PeterMac

Yes I read manual, and nowhere there is write about controling fans by voltage.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterMac*
> 
> Yes I read manual, and nowhere there is write about controling fans by voltage.


I think you need to read it again. There is a section discussing Chassis Q-Fan Control. Starts at bottom of 3-24. Nothing said about voltage or PWM but the only header with PWM control is the CPU fan header.


----------



## pony-tail

I have pretty good case flow - Although I am running a slightly negative pressure setup .
The article your sig links to is interesting .
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What is your cooler's intake air temp when CPU temps are at maximum?
> 
> What is the fan layout?
> 
> I would suggest
> * 2x front intake
> * vent closest to front on top intake
> * rear exhaust
> * remove all unused PCIe slot covers.
> Experiment with other combinations, but I think this will be the best .. assuming your fans have enough oomph to push air through the PCIe slots and back vent in top.


If this is in reference to my setup .
I have 2 14cm ( 1500 rpm capable ) pwm noctuas in the top as exhaust - 2 of the same in the front and I have the stock Corsair 3pin 1300 rpm 120mm fan .in rear
The fans are Noctua 140mm NF-A14 PWM 1500RPM . Airflow is 140,2 m³/h per fan.
So beyond decent airflow to approaching overkill .
Air inside the case is only 2 or 3c max above ambient ( my ambient in Summer can be between 35 and 45c - I have a large ceiling fan , It keeps me cool because I have evaporative cooling - unfortunately my PC does not . Air conditioning a 90 year old leaky uninsulated wooden house with a good old Aussie tin roof is not realistic .


----------



## PeterMac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think you need to read it again. There is a section discussing Chassis Q-Fan Control. Starts at bottom of 3-24. Nothing said about voltage or PWM but the only header with PWM control is the CPU fan header.


Yes that's right, nowhere is write about voltage control, only Q-Fan with three settings + Manual.

I want to buy Swiftech Splitter and connect to it 4x Noctua NH-A14 PWM (two intake, two exhaust fans in case Arc Midi R2) and CPU fan which I have Noctua P12 I will connect to CHA_FAN1 it use U.L.N.A adapter. Does this configuration will be fine ? I'm not sure because I read in your tutorial -
Quote:


> Use CPU cooler fan as "master" fan. This is the fan that sends rpm signal to motherboard PWM header.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterMac*
> 
> Yes that's right, nowhere is write about voltage control, only Q-Fan with three settings + Manual.
> 
> I want to buy Swiftech Splitter and connect to it 4x Noctua NH-A14 PWM (two intake, two exhaust fans in case Arc Midi R2) and CPU fan which I have Noctua P12 I will connect to CHA_FAN1 it use U.L.N.A adapter. Does this configuration will be fine ? I'm not sure because I read in your tutorial -


The only fan header on your Asus P8P67 Deluxe with PWM control is the CPU_FAN header. You will have to use it to supply PWM signal to PWM splitter or Swiftech PWM hub. I don't know if the U.L.N.A. adapters will work on PWM .. at the very least to us them you would need to jumper the PWM signal / pin-4 lead to fan or it will not be PWM controlled. Without the PWM signal the fan will run on on constant voltage, not pulsed to control speed.


----------



## PeterMac

So CPU Fan must be connected also to Swiftech Splitter too and also support PWM ? or I can connect only case fans to Swiftech Splitter, and seperate CPU Fan with U.L.N.A to another any header on motherboard (I do not need PWM control on CPU Fan Noctua NF-P12)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterMac*
> 
> So CPU Fan must be connected also to Swiftech Splitter too and also support PWM ? or I can connect only case fans to Swiftech Splitter, and seperate CPU Fan with U.L.N.A to another any header on motherboard (I do not need PWM control on CPU Fan Noctua NF-P12)


To use the PWM signal motherboard CPU fan header must be in PWM mode. This means it will have a ground pin, 12v constant voltage pin, rpm signal to motherboard pin, and PWM signal out to fans / splitter / hub.

This will not give you control of 3-pin fans. They will be running on 12v constantly while the PWM fans will be using the PWM signal to pulse the 12v power to lower their speed.

If our NF-P12 is the new PWM version, than you can control it on the Swiftech splitter. I would use it as master sending rpm signal to motherboard.


----------



## PeterMac

OK so CPU Fan must me PWM version to control rest PWM case fans right ? adjusting speed case fans to CPU temperature ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterMac*
> 
> OK so CPU Fan must me PWM version to control rest PWM case fans right ? adjusting speed case fans to CPU temperature ?


Yes and no.
If CPU fan is not used as control fan for PWM splitter / hub and not plugged into the CPU fan header it can be a 3-pin fan.








Or you can a 3-pin CPU fan into the hub to get 12v power, but no speed control.
For me the best way is to have PWM fans on both CPU and case with one of the CPU fans as the master.

It might sound complicated, but it's really not.


----------



## SLOWION

Got a chance to play with a Noctua NF-F12







, decided to throw it on my Hyper 212 EVO and see how it'd perform


----------



## sdmf74

edit


----------



## GrimDoctor

Here's my current setup in my new case (Corsair AIR 540). Been testing for the best flow to get that SLI heat out and I think I've got it now. Please excuse the untidiness and crappy photo. I have some big plans to come now that it's up and running - a full case rebuild and mod, planning the cuts and paint now


----------



## awesomedude872

Hi Guys. I just bought The Noctua NH u14s and installed it in my bitfenix ronin but the problem is that there is no more clearance from the cooler to the side panel. It closes but whenevr i slide the panel in, the cooler moves sideways too!
The Clearance height of Bitfenix Ronin : 170 mm
The Height of the Nocuta NH u14s: 165 mm
So guys please help me 'cus im really worried about the cooler
And i might've installed it wrong but i followed the manual
THANKS!


----------



## Yianni89

Hi I'm going to be decking out with a case + rads full of Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-3000 PWM

the blades are black which is great for me but is it possible to paint the case... want to make them white rather than black with brown corners any suggestions?


----------



## BuZADAM

HI ALL

I ORDER MY NEW COOLER CORSAIR H110I GT. BUT I DONT WANT USE STOCK FANS.

SO WHAT DO YOU RECOMMEND WHICH NOCTUA

NF-A14 PWM 1500 RPM OR NF-A14 PWM IPPC 2000 RPM

MY CASE COOLER MASTER COSMOS 2

MY CPU AMD FX 9590


----------



## BrettJSr72

Your choice. Both are good fans. See if you can find comparison data. But if me, I'd go with the industrial version. According to Noctua, they have a slight advantage over the retail 1500 version.


----------



## bunja

Hi all,
I have two nf-p14s redux 1500 pwm on the side panel of the haf xm case. I find them a bit too noisy at higher than 60%, I am using a y-splitter to connect them to a pwm fan header, can I use a lna from a-15pwm or nf-f12 to quiet them down. if so how to use them with y-splitter : fans-lna-splitter-mb ? Or two lna cables after the splitter?

Thank you.


----------



## bayside500

thinking about adding another fan for push/pull, is it worth it ?

there are 3 more coolermaster fans in the case, 1 intake in front the HDD's and 1 intake in the optical drive cage and 1 exhaust in top of case at the rear


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bayside500*
> 
> thinking about adding another fan for push/pull, is it worth it ?
> 
> there are 3 more coolermaster fans in the case, 1 intake in front the HDD's and 1 intake in the optical drive cage and 1 exhaust in top of case at the rear
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Maybe give you a couple degrees cooler CPU temps .. but will change airflow from GPU as it flows up and back to top and back fan too, so hard to say how that will effect the cooler intake air temp. Probably not worth it.


----------



## EarlZ

Im looking at getting the U12S but I am also wondering if the Cooler master Hyper 612 v2 is as good or better than the noctua. I will be using my own GT-AP15 fans on it.


----------



## BuZADAM

Thanks for comment

for using cosmos 2 case , which one more efective and good at lowering case temp ?

NF-F12 PWM OR NF-S12A PWM ?


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> Thanks for comment
> 
> for using cosmos 2 case , which one more efective and good at lowering case temp ?
> 
> NF-F12 PWM OR NF-S12A PWM ?


I have that case and I'd recommend the NF-S12A as it is designed as a case cooling fan. The NF-F12 can also be used for case cooling however it's primary purpose is for radiators. I use three of them to blow onto my GPUs as the air from them is directed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Im looking at getting the U12S but I am also wondering if the Cooler master Hyper 612 v2 is as good or better than the noctua. I will be using my own GT-AP15 fans on it.


NH-U12S is better cooler .. better cooling, better built.


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> I have that case and I'd recommend the NF-S12A as it is designed as a case cooling fan. The NF-F12 can also be used for case cooling however it's primary purpose is for radiators. I use three of them to blow onto my GPUs as the air from them is directed.


thanks. what are you using side panel nf-f12 or nf-s12a ?


----------



## BuZADAM

@ brettjsr72

are you using h110 ?


----------



## BrettJSr72

@BuZADAM I'm using two NF-F12 PWM on the side panel as well as on on the hard drive cage. All three blowing onto my GPU's. I also have a NF-A14 instead of a 200mm for front intake. Lastly, I'm using the Cooler Master Nepton 280L and switched out the fans for two NF-A14's in pull.


----------



## synphul

Hey all, was wondering what people's thoughts were. I'm trying to choose between a couple of fans for top exhaust, this seems like the place to ask. The nf-p14r and p14s are roughly the same price, both are pwm. Is there any advantage to one over the other in terms of frame type? The square seems like it would be more rigid. I know the round uses 120mm mount spacing but my case will accept either so I'm not concerned by it. Strictly for airflow exhaust out the top (through a screen air filter and grill), not mounted to a radiator or anything.

The redux aren't really that 'cost effective' given the lack of extras for just a few dollars savings but the color is much more appealing to me over the traditional colors. I know they also use the original version of the sso bearing - is that a big deal? Do the sso2's work that much better that it's sacrificing performance/durability?

Hoping to add 2 140's to the top for exhaust in addition to a 140 rear exhaust with just the stock 200mm as front intake. Planning to drop the speed of the top fans down a bit for more equalized airflow and to help keep noise down. Would the 140 redux be a good solution for this application? Seems like just about every other 140mm fan comparable to noise/performance of the noctua has various issues running horizontal pushing air up. Thanks for any suggestions.


----------



## remixedMind

add me








NOCTUA NH-L12 using the 92mm fan only
Noctua NT-H1
and Noctua NF-R8 PWM on its way


----------



## BuZADAM

HI all offical noctua club members.

what do you think my current noctua fan selection and setup ?


----------



## synphul

That's quite a few fans you got going on. Apparently the original beige/brown noctua colors not fitting with any color scheme isn't entirely true, get enough of them and it creates it's own color scheme







Looks nice and obviously a decent investment there. Looking forward to my first trial of noctuas. 2 140 pwm redux supposed to be here monday.


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> HI all offical noctua club members.
> 
> what do you think my current noctua fan selection and setup ?


Hmmm, like it so much, I'm going to add a 2nd NF-F12 to my HDD cage as you have it. May look into a couple fans for my VRM as well. Just have to figure out a mounting for them.


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Hmmm, like it so much, I'm going to add a 2nd NF-F12 to my HDD cage as you have it. May look into a couple fans for my VRM as well. Just have to figure out a mounting for them.


thanks.

ı added 2x NF A6X25 FLX for cooling vrm. because you know ı am using fx9590 cpu. vrm and nb heatsink very hot when using passive cooled.

according to you which noctua for rear fan cosmos 2 . ? whats your recommend

in my experience nf s12a pwm very poor performans when ı using side panel and hdd cage are. but thanks for nf f12 pwm focused flow


----------



## BrettJSr72

I have the NF-A15 PWM as rear intake. However, I plan to make it exhaust once I add the 2nd NF-F12. It uses the 120mm mounting.


----------



## BuZADAM

HI ALL

admin , can you add list me ?

my noctua product list MY COSMOS 2 CASE

4x NF-A14 PWM for cooling h110i gt

1x NF-A14 PWM for front intake my case

1x NF-A15 PWM for rear exhaust my case

2x NF-F12 PWM for side panel intake

2x NF-F12 PWM for hdd cage.

2x NF-A6X25 FLX for cooling vrm and nb heatsink


----------



## fisher6

Anybody has experience using the S12A fans? I plan to get 3 for use as intake fans in my h440 case, mainly for more silent cooling. They seem to be recommended for airflow. There would be no HDD cages blocking the fans.


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Anybody has experience using the S12A fans? I plan to get 3 for use as intake fans in my h440 case, mainly for more silent cooling. They seem to be recommended for airflow. There would be no HDD cages blocking the fans.


HI..

Yes I have . dont buy nf-s12a if your use intake and have a filter.

ı used 4x nf-s12a not good at intake using when near dust filter etc. only use this fan open air location.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> HI..
> 
> Yes I have . dont buy nf-s12a if your use intake and have a filter.
> 
> ı used 4x nf-s12a not good at intake using when near dust filter etc. only use this fan open air location.


I have dust filter but I removed it. Inside the case there is nothing blocking the airflow. Why don't you recommend them as intake fans? are they quite?


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I have dust filter but I removed it. Inside the case there is nothing blocking the airflow. Why don't you recommend them as intake fans? are they quite?


there are very quiet but when this fan location have filter , there is no air flow. but again open air or no blocking the air flow that time good choice and extremely quiet even @1050 rpm


----------



## doyll

Airflow specification (CFM) is only part of what determines a fan's ability to move air in normal use.


A fan flowing air creates a pressure differential.
Pressure differential is what makes air move. Fan pulls air creating a low pressure area on intake side and pushes air creating a high pressure area on exhaust side. The normal pressure air around the fan's intake low pressure area moves to equalize the the pressure in low pressure area, and the high pressure exhaust air moves into normal air pressure area to equalize it's pressure.
This pressure differential is what the static pressure rating is all about. The problem is retail fan companies only give is the free airflow rating .. no grill, no filter, no cooler, .. nothing restricting the airflow. And the maximum pressure rating .. when the air stops moving. Static = stopped, still, no movement.
As resistance increases the airflow decreases. The more resistance there is, the less airflow there is.
We do not use our fans in either of these conditions. We need the PQ curve / graph of the fan to see how the fan perform in application .. how much are it flows with the resistance of grill, filter, cooler, or radiator.

Here is a PQ graph. Notice how the Nidec / Scythe AP-15 fan (dark green) with lower m3/h spec and higher static pressure spec can flow much more air as pressure (resistance) rises than Glidestream 1600 (orange) does with higher m3/h spec, but lower static pressure spec.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> there are very quiet but when this fan location have filter , there is no air flow. but again open air or no blocking the air flow that time good choice and extremely quiet even @1050 rpm


Nice, extremely quiet is what I'm looking for


----------



## synphul

Hey doyll, how do you read that pq curve graph? I'm confused because it looks like the various fans lose pressure at higher cfm. They start off the highest pressure at 0 and drop to the lowest at higher cfm, why is that? I'm guessing I'm reading it wrong. I know it technically says m3/h, I'm just used to cfm values.


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Nice, extremely quiet is what I'm looking for


please when your setup finish tell us your opinion for nf-s12a.

ı used to nf s12a pwm my cosmos 2 side panel and hdd gage it's very very quiet but not cool or air flow my case because my case side panel have filter

thanks for interest


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> please when your setup finish tell us your opinion for nf-s12a.
> 
> ı used to nf s12a pwm my cosmos 2 side panel and hdd gage it's very very quiet but not cool or air flow my case because my case side panel have filter
> 
> thanks for interest


Will do, I will order 3 today and prolly pick them up tomorrow after work. I removed all the HDD cases and dust filter so there is at least 15 cm of free space in front of the intake fans.

EDIT:
Also on paper, the S12A has higher cfm compared to the stock case fans I got (NZXT FF V2)


----------



## karupt

So I had one of my Noctua fans attacked to the included low-noise adapters, and many months later while doing some maintenance, this happened while trying to unplug the low-noise adapter.



I tried plugging it back in but no luck. Any idea guys?


----------



## Aibohphobia

Does anyone know the absolute minimum starting voltage of the NF-12 iPPC-2000 (the non-PWM version)?

I'm trying to find a suitable fan to mount to the outside of the SilverStone SX500-LG. The stock fan on that starts at ~2.50V.


----------



## Wallboy

Looks like around 4.8V if this is the fan you're talking about:


----------



## Oubadah

..


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Anybody has experience using the S12A fans? I plan to get 3 for use as intake fans in my h440 case, mainly for more silent cooling. They seem to be recommended for airflow. There would be no HDD cages blocking the fans.


Hello

I use the Noctua fans shown on my sig rig. As intakes I use what is shown there. I never faced any issues with them. I am completely satisfied! For months I have been running them at their full speed, actually I run like this all my chassis fans -not my AIO's fans- and they were all very effective, smooth and silent. One time I have also tried the Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-2000 PWM, as front intake fans and also 140mm Noctua fans, two of them, as front intakes. Unfortunately, this did not work well. The 120mm industrial ones were very noisy at around 1500 rpm, whereas the 140mm fans were making a "airplane turbine" sound due to my chassis' front panel construction. I am very pleased with my current chassis fan setup, though.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I use the Noctua fans shown on my sig rig. As intakes I use what is shown there. I never faced any issues with them. I am completely satisfied! For months I have been running them at their full speed, actually I run like this all my chassis fans -not my AIO's fans- and they were all very effective, smooth and silent. One time I have also tried the Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-2000 PWM, as front intake fans and also 140mm Noctua fans, two of them, as front intakes. Unfortunately, this did not work well. The 120mm industrial ones were very noisy at around 1500 rpm, whereas the 140mm fans were making a "airplane turbine" sound due to my chassis' front panel construction. I am very pleased with my current chassis fan setup, though.


Thanks for the input. I ordered 3 yesterday and will pick them up later today. Once installed my case will contain nothing but Noctua fans


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Thanks for the input. I ordered 3 yesterday and will pick them up later today. Once installed my case will contain nothing but Noctua fans


Great! Hope you'll post a few photos, too!


----------



## Aibohphobia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wallboy*
> 
> Looks like around 4.8V if this is the fan you're talking about:


That's a bummer, I'll keep looking then.

Guess I'll join the club while I'm here:









A14 iPPC-2000 PWM IP67 on the rad and P12 PWM on the front.

I also own two older P12s, a S12, an A15, and another P12 PWM.


----------



## remixedMind

@animal0307 updates to the list? thanks


----------



## synphul

Quick question for anyone who has 140mm fans, preferably experience with the redux line. Is it normal for them to be out of balance? Just got my nf-p14s 1500 pwm's, plugged it into my fan controller to test it out and they're a bit out of balance. As in I can feel vibration while holding the fans throughout the rpm range and if holding the fan at an angle watching the edge of the blades pass the edge of the frame you can see a slight wobble where the level of the blade tips dip and rise, dip and rise as it rotates. Not bad enough to vibrate on a flat hard surface, but still. Figured $20 a pop for premium fans, they hopefully wouldn't suffer balance issues. Other than the vibration they're nice and quiet, no hub noise or anything. Running on the fan controller the pwm isn't engaged it's running on pure dc 3 pin and the controller is a rheobus/mechanical not software or digital. I really hate to have to send them back, hopefully the vibration doesn't transfer into the case. Planning to use rubber mounts instead of screws if I can which should help isolate it, I know they have a 6yr warranty if they get worse. Just a bit surprised I guess, expected that sort of thing from a lower end fan. Similar vibration was felt in the phanteks 140sp, maybe it's an inherent issue in 140mm fans?


----------



## Oubadah

..


----------



## synphul

Well that's what I was thinking too. Just surprised me is all. I've never owned noctua's before, these are my first. I know the redux use the older sso vs the sso2 bearing but I thought the only difference was the placement of the magnet (the sso2's being a little closer to the shaft). The original noctuas before the sso2 bearings were solid quality from what I've heard. All in all the redux should still be a quality fan, not 'cheapy' or anything like an extreme budget model. It was my understanding the reduced cost was mostly due to lack of extension cables and lna cables which didn't bother me any. I dig the new colors, in person the two tone greys are nice. Definitely moves a lot of air and still isn't as loud as my current s-flex exhaust even when it's at max rpm.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *synphul*
> 
> Hey doyll, how do you read that pq curve graph? I'm confused because it looks like the various fans lose pressure at higher cfm. They start off the highest pressure at 0 and drop to the lowest at higher cfm, why is that? I'm guessing I'm reading it wrong. I know it technically says m3/h, I'm just used to cfm values.


The vertical is maximum pressure the fan will build. Static Pressure rating. When there is so much resistance / pressure that fan cannot move any air.
The horizontal is the cfm of fan. The higher the pressure, the lower the cfm .. until the pressure / resistance reaches the point the fan moves 0cfm of air.


----------



## synphul

Oh ok, thanks. I see where I had it confused now, I was thinking free air and thinking maximum pressure was at full rpm/cfm. That makes sense though, it doesn't have to produce any pressure in free air environment and maximum pressure in terms of resistance would bring the cfm to 0 (as in gradually increasing restriction).


----------



## BrettJSr72

Anyone have any updates on the 200mm fan? Once I replace my 140 intake, I'll be done.


----------



## MathKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Anyone have any updates on the 200mm fan? Once I replace my 140 intake, I'll be done.


They said it will be in 1'st Q of 2015


----------



## Wallboy

I was just browning some fan specs on Noctua's site and noticed the NH-D15 cooler comes with 1500 RPM NF-A15's, while the standalone NF-A15 has a fan speed of 1200 RPM. Are these not the same fan?


----------



## MathKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wallboy*
> 
> I was just browning some fan specs on Noctua's site and noticed the NH-D15 cooler comes with 1500 RPM NF-A15's, while the standalone NF-A15 has a fan speed of 1200 RPM. Are these not the same fan?


This two are the same, but with only different RPM


----------



## BrettJSr72

@MathKiller Thanks! Here's the current rig


----------



## vicyo

I had my suspicious as that the fan was terrible for downvolting and I also saw a empty soldering spot on the iPPC F12 non-PWM version.
Guess what? I soldered a wire on the spot and now the fan is PWM controlled



[email protected]% the fan spin at 1050RPM+- and it's perfect


----------



## BrettJSr72

I've been contemplating swapping out as many retail fans for their IPPC equivalent. I'm under the impression that there would greater performance as well as a small power use reduction. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Only specs I am using in this decision is what our friends at Noctua provide.


----------



## fisher6

Finally got around to installing my new S12A PWM fans in my h440 case. The case is now dead silent during general use. I can at last control the fans like I want. Nothing but Noctua fans now


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Finally got around to installing my new S12A PWM fans in my h440 case. The case is now dead silent during general use. I can at last control the fans like I want. Nothing but Noctua fans now


Congratulations!!








It looks fantastic!

Would you be so kind to:
1) complete your sig-rig so that your full system will be shown?
2) (and most important): run the latest Prime95, Blend test, at stock settings, so after loading Optimized Defaults, and post a screenshot of the latest beta of HWiNFO64, so that we will see your system's cooling performance?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> I've been contemplating swapping out as many retail fans for their IPPC equivalent. I'm under the impression that there would greater performance as well as a small power use reduction. Does anyone have *any thoughts* on this? Only specs I am using in this decision is what our friends at Noctua provide.


Yes, here are my thoughts:
On my system, shown fully in my sig-rig, I have tried both 120mm and 140mm Noctua IPPC fans. Unfortunately, in my case and with my chassis -which I adore- it didn't work. 140mm IPPC fans on my front panel were making an airplane turbine noise and in the back side it was the same, just a little bit less loud. 120mm IPPC fans were pretty loud from 1300 rpm, even. Those were not sounding like turbines but they were loud.

I am pretty happy from my 140mm IPPC push fans on my H110 though and I will most probably purchase another two, to use them as pull fans.

Everything I write applies to my chassis. Perhaps in yours it will be different.


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Finally got around to installing my new S12A PWM fans in my h440 case. The case is now dead silent during general use. I can at last control the fans like I want. Nothing but Noctua fans now


good looking build.

ı said that like before . nf s12a pwm very quiet. so am ı right


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> @MathKiller Thanks! Here's the current rig


hi

ı want to ask question about your cpu cooler.

are you using cooler master nepton 280L ?

120 OR 140 FAN inside your case on raidator?

and any pump nosise ? when runing over 6000 rpm ?


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> hi
> 
> ı want to ask question about your cpu cooler.
> 
> are you using cooler master nepton 280L ?
> 
> 120 OR 140 FAN inside your case on raidator?
> 
> and any pump nosise ? when runing over 6000 rpm ?


I'm running 2x NF-A14's in PULL and 1x NF-F12 in push, cannot get a 2nd NF-F12 due to the power cables causing interference. The rad supports both 120 and 140 fans.


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> I'm running 2x NF-A14's in PULL and 1x NF-F12 in push, cannot get a 2nd NF-F12 due to the power cables causing interference. The rad supports both 120 and 140 fans.


any pump noise ? whine or etc ?

are you recommend buy nepton 280L For cooling fx 9590


----------



## BrettJSr72

I will check more closely tonight. My first thought is the only whine or noise I may hear is the fans cycling up/down due to PWM control. The pump appears to be pretty good and my case is pretty solid. I can hear my GPU's fans more so than anything, especially when they get a load when gaming or benching. Whatever noise that is generated is minuscule, almost pleasant. I think I have a fan fetish, I like to watch them spin.







Stay tuned, I'll check both with door closed and open, paying specific attention to the pump.


----------



## BrettJSr72

I don't hear any whine from the pump with or without the door closed. The only spinning sound I hear is as I said earlier, from the fans PWM cycling up/down. They are tied to the pump as I have the fans as well as the pump on a Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter connected to the CPU fan header. So, yes, this is a good pump/rad combo. I've also used the H100i by Corsair. Only switched because I was tired of them failing in the software. Maybe it was due to my own demise, consistent resetting as my fans, NF-F12's would not register.


----------



## OwaN

Having issues with my NF-P14's in my rig and figured I'd ask here before creating my own thread. I can't get any PWM control over my 4 fans using the Swiftech 8-way splitter. RPM reports just fine, but no matter what speed % is set I get 1500RPM. I can get control over individual fans if they're hooked up directly to the mobo headers, so I've pretty much narrowed it down to the splitter itself. Is this a known issue with the swiftech splitter? If so is there a better alternative? I have the modmytoys low-pro PCB splitter, but not the female-female extension cable to make it work (why its not included by default still boggles my mind).


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Having issues with my NF-P14's in my rig and figured I'd ask here before creating my own thread. I can't get any PWM control over my 4 fans using the Swiftech 8-way splitter. RPM reports just fine, but no matter what speed % is set I get 1500RPM. I can get control over individual fans if they're hooked up directly to the mobo headers, so I've pretty much narrowed it down to the splitter itself. Is this a known issue with the swiftech splitter? If so is there a better alternative? I have the modmytoys low-pro PCB splitter, but not the female-female extension cable to make it work (why its not included by default still boggles my mind).


Which header are you connected to and are you certain that header has PWM control? I'm using the same splitter connected to the CPU header and mine work. Also, in my bios I have to set it to recognize a three pin connection otherwise set to a four pin connection all fans run at full power. I have the Asus Rampage IV Black Edition motherboard.


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Which header are you connected to and are you certain that header has PWM control? I'm using the same splitter connected to the CPU header and mine work. Also, in my bios I have to set it to recognize a three pin connection otherwise set to a four pin connection all fans run at full power. I have the Asus Rampage IV Black Edition motherboard.


Its on a PWM header and I was able to get control over an individual fan on the same header. I also swapped headers and had the same result. Everything looks ok in bios too... set the same as the other splitter thats controlling my set of corsair fans, which respond to PWM as expected.


----------



## Onyxian

Guess I've never posted in here, thought I did.



NH-D15, 5 NF-A14 2000rpm and 1 3000rpm. Old picture right when I installed it all, just opened it up recently to dust and man the NH-D15 heatsink is like.. crazy stained/etched from my hand oils I guess.

Anyway, when the R9 390/x comes out I'm thinking about going crossfire. Not sure how power efficient they'll be but I'm probably going to upgrade my PSU. Maybe a ~1000w, unfortunately those are long and will interfere with my bottom fan which I definitely want to keep with going to crossfire. Might change it to an NF-F12 and mount it a bit odd to try and fit a bigger power supply.

How bad would it be if I screw in only one corner?


----------



## Damianpl

Hey!

I'd like to join your Noctua Club

My gear:

Noctua Dh-15
fans: Noctua NF-A15 PWM 2x


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Its on a PWM header and I was able to get control over an individual fan on the same header. I also swapped headers and had the same result. Everything looks ok in bios too... set the same as the other splitter thats controlling my set of corsair fans, which respond to PWM as expected.


swap that splitter for the known good one. See if one is bad.


----------



## mironccr345

I got a new case to replace a cramped Fractal Core 1000 case. Decided to dust off my NF-P12's and put them to use.


----------



## mironccr345

I received an email this morning.



Quote:


> Vienna, March 11th 2015 - Continuing its recent focus on premium grade
> cooling components for compact systems such as ITX based gaming or Home
> Theater PCs, Noctua today released its new NH-L9x65 low-profile cooler
> and a 4-pin PWM version of its popular NF-A6x25 60mm fan. While the
> latter adds PWM support for automatic speed control to the proven
> NF-A6x25 design, the NH-L9x65 is a taller, performance-enhanced version
> of Noctua's award-winning NH-L9 low-profile coolers.
> 
> "Our NH-L9 coolers have become a default choice for customers seeking
> premium grade quiet coolers in the sub-40mm class, but with a height of
> only 37mm, their performance is inevitably limited", explains Mag.
> Roland Mossig (Noctua CEO), "The new NH-L9x65 provides the increased
> performance necessary to cool high end CPUs quietly while still offering
> excellent case and component compatibility."
> 
> Due to its compact heatsink and the renowned 14mm thin NF-A9x14 PWM fan,
> the NH-L9x65 stands only 65mm tall (the same height as low-profile
> expansion cards), which makes it ideal for use in compact HTPCs or Small
> Form Factor cases that offer limited clearance for CPU coolers. With 65
> instead of 37mm height and four instead of two heatpipes, the NH-L9x65
> is more powerful than its smaller siblings yet retains their 95x95mm
> footprint, which guarantees 100% RAM and PCIe compatibility on Intel
> based ITX mainboards and makes the cooler more convenient to work with
> as it doesn't overhang near-socket connectors.
> 
> Topped off with the professional SecuFirm2™ multi-socket mounting system
> for Intel and AMD, Noctua's renowned NT-H1 thermal compound and 6 years
> manufacturer's warranty, the NH-L9x65 fuses everything users have come
> to expect from Noctua's larger coolers into a compact premium package
> for space restricted systems.
> 
> "With the trend towards highly compact, ITX based builds, 60mm fans are
> in demand again", says Mag. Roland Mossig (Noctua CEO), "Since more and
> more ITX mainboards offer PWM speed control on the case fan header or
> even multiple PWM headers, we're now providing a 4-pin PWM version of
> our popular, award-winning NF-A6x25 model."
> 
> The new PWM version of the NF-A6x25 sports Noctua's custom designed
> NE-FD1 IC for fully automatic speed control via 4-pin fan headers and
> comes with a Low-Noise-Adaptor to reduce the maximum speed during PWM
> control from 3000 to 2300rpm. Its superb running smoothness, SSO2
> bearing and Noctua's trusted premium quality make it an elite 60mm
> choice for the highest demands.
> 
> Prices and availability
> The new models are currently shipping and will be available shortly. The
> manufacturer suggested retail prices are as follows:
> NH-L9x65: EUR 44.90 / USD 52.90
> NF-A6x25 PWM: EUR 14.90 / USD 17.90
> 
> Links
> Press-Release:
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=news_list&news_id=98&lng=en
> Video NH-L9x65:
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productvideos&products_id=108
> Video A-Series Fans:
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productvideos&products_id=109
> Photos NH-L9x65: http://www.noctua.at/inc/imageviewer.php?item=108
> Photos NF-A6x25 PWM: http://www.noctua.at/inc/imageviewer.php?item=109
> Details NH-L9x25:
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=108
> Details NF-A6x25 PWM:
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=109


----------



## MathKiller

Message from noctua support:
"I'm afraid that the 200mm fan has been delayed and it is now scheduled for q3/2015."


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MathKiller*
> 
> Message from noctua support:
> "I'm afraid that the 200mm fan has been delayed and it is now scheduled for q3/2015."


Is the monitor in your avy a LG 34" 3440x1440p?


----------



## MathKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Is the monitor in your avy a LG 34" 3440x1440p?


Yes, this is LG 34UM95


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MathKiller*
> 
> Yes, this is LG 34UM95


Nice. I recently bought one and I love it.


----------



## Fruergaard

Wanted to share my build, where the Noctua fans just fits perfectly 

Made in 6mm plywood, and a 6mm acrylic front.
The plywood is glued together while the front is installed with Parvum systems modding cubes.
But here some pictures




















Here with a GTX 970 and the acrylic front installed:



Not sure which would look best, the black from MSI or "Titan" cooler from Nvidia in SLI.
Perhaps with red or white logo instead of the green.

I took a lot of the AX850s cable in order to make it look good and have a proper airflow








And the Noctua fans just fit perfectly with the plywood








The case is a little under 15 liters, fits mATX, SLI and ARX PSU up to 160mm long.
And 4 SSDs can be installed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fruergaard*
> 
> Wanted to share my build, where the Noctua fans just fits perfectly
> 
> Made in 6mm plywood, and a 6mm acrylic front.
> The plywood is glued together while the front is installed with Parvum systems modding cubes.
> But here some pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here with a GTX 970 and the acrylic front installed:
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure which would look best, the black from MSI or "Titan" cooler from Nvidia in SLI.
> Perhaps with red or white logo instead of the green.
> 
> 
> 
> I took a lot of the AX850s cable in order to make it look good and have a proper airflow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the Noctua fans just fit perfectly with the plywood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The case is a little under 15 liters, fits mATX, SLI and ARX PSU up to 160mm long.
> And 4 SSDs can be installed.


Very nicely done!








Being a custom woodworker by profession I can appreciate what you have done.
I like using solid birch void free plywood for projects, but have not built a case. Have thought about it, but never got enough ambition to do it.

Doesn't the 2nd GPU get kinda warm with no case fan supplying it?


----------



## NIK1

Anyone know how the Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 2000 IP67 PWM 140mm Cooling Fans works on cooling a radiator. I am building a new loop in my system with a Swiftech H240x and wonder if these 2000 rpm industrial fans will be better than the Swiftech 140 mm ones that come with he H240x
.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Anyone know how the Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 2000 IP67 PWM 140mm Cooling Fans works on cooling a radiator. I am building a new loop in my system with a Swiftech H240x and wonder if these 2000 rpm industrial fans will be better than the Swiftech 140 mm ones that come with he H240x
> .


Yes, probably a little better airflow, but not by much. Probably not enough improvement to justify the cost. I don't know if more airflow through radiator will lower temps. There is a limit to radiator cooling to airflow, and I don't know what that is on the Swiftech radiator. Maybe ask on the Swiftech H240X thread. BramSLI1 will probably have the answer.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Anyone know how the Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 2000 IP67 PWM 140mm Cooling Fans works on cooling a radiator. I am building a new loop in my system with a Swiftech H240x and wonder if these 2000 rpm industrial fans will be better than the Swiftech 140 mm ones that come with he H240x


Hi

I have two of these (non IP67) on my Corsair H110. Please, see my sig-rig. I could run the x264 test if you wish and post the results. Let me know.

Thank you.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi
> 
> I have two of these (non IP67) on my Corsair H110. Please, see my sig-rig. I could run the x264 test if you wish and post the results. Let me know.
> 
> Thank you.


Could you please run the test with the stock fans and with Noctua fans to compare their cooling and noise levels?
Would give us some good data.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Could you please run the test with the stock fans and with Noctua fans to compare their cooling and noise levels?
> Would give us some good data.


Oh, I'm sorry but as you realize this would require to uninstall my current fan setup and install the stock Corsair fans again... It is impossible for me to do this now but I might do it sometime in the future. Personally, I will never use the stock fans of the H110.

I've gone ahead and run a 10 minutes Blend test though








You can see the settings of my current 24/7 OC profile, if you wish.

Under these settings, and:
- an ambient temperature of 19C, inside my room, and 15C outside in the balcony, as my sensors show. Rainy day we have here today.
- after setting all system's fans to full load
- Corsair's H110 fans shown in my sig-rig

I got under full load:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







And "on idle" , so after stopping the test


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Finally, when it comes to the noise - a highly subjective matter- yes, at full speed they can be noisy. Personally, I always set my CPU cooler to the "Silent" profile, which results in my push fans spinning at 650rpm and my pull fans to not spin at all. My chassis fans, controlled by my Aquaero, are spinning at around 1000 rpm. After May - June I will reconsider it.


----------



## doyll

I understand.
Thanks for the other data. Always nice to see what others are getting.


----------



## Fruergaard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Very nicely done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being a custom woodworker by profession I can appreciate what you have done.
> I like using solid birch void free plywood for projects, but have not built a case. Have thought about it, but never got enough ambition to do it.
> 
> Doesn't the 2nd GPU get kinda warm with no case fan supplying it?


Thanks
I haven't had the time to test for tempatures properly yet, but the case fan at the bottom should provide enough air for both GPU.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I understand.
> Thanks for the other data. Always nice to see what others are getting.


You are welcome!
I'd appreciate your opinion about my temperatures, and my system's cooling performance in overall - after taking in consideration the voltages applied.

Also...one question, if I'm allowed to "cheat" : - Look at my system, please, and tell me, which three (3) 120mm fans would you suggest, as front intakes?

Thank you!


----------



## doyll

At a guess front and bottom intakes.
Your airflow has way more exhaust than intake ability. I would use 3x 140mm intake in front and bottom. Exhaust fans are not very important, just as pull fans on cooler / radiator give only minimal improvement. You may find links in sig helpful.


----------



## lesterq

Hi guys.

I just bought a noctua a14 3000 for my sff case which had my storage drives running at 47 degrees.

A cooltek/jonsbo C2.

My motherboard is a B75M-DGS with one 1 amp cha fan. And the fan is stated to run 0.57 amp.

Yet I read people saying that a noctua 3000rpm shouldn't be run off a motherboard header. Am I safe?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> At a guess front and bottom intakes.
> Your airflow has way more exhaust than intake ability. I would use 3x 140mm intake in front and bottom. Exhaust fans are not very important, just as pull fans on cooler / radiator give only minimal improvement. You may find links in sig helpful.


Hmm...

You are probably right. After performing an amateurish calculation it gives me:

3 x Noctua NF-S12A = 3 x 107.5 = 322.5 m³/h (Intake Flow)
(2 x NF-A14 IPPC-2000 PWM) + (2 x Noctua NF-A14 PWM) + Noctua NF-A14 PWM = (2 x 182.5) + (2 x 140.2) + 140.2 = 785.6 m³/h (Exhaust Flow)

I realize that these values are not correct since there's the front panel filter, the radiator's resistance and other factors but, anyway, it is a huge difference. I will remove the two NF-A14 pull fans from my Corsair H110 and I will test again. I will then place those 2 fans at the bottom of my Air 540 chassis, as intakes, and test again. The problem is that I have my SSDs at the bottom and also that I do not own a filter. I could purchase a filter but I am not willing to remove my SSDs from there. So, the only way that those two 140mm fans could stay and function at the bottom of my chassis as intakes, would be to simply place them over the SSDs and have them spin above them. Is this something acceptable?! Can it cause ANY kind of problem to my SSDs? I might take a picture while testing, not a native English speaker so having some trouble expressing all this, hope you understand.

When it comes to placing 140mm fans as front intakes, I have already tried that - it does not worth it. 140mm fans mounted in the front panel of my chassis sound like an airplane turbine. And also they do not "cover" so much area. Do you understand me? 120mm fans blow in an area starting almost from the top to the bottom of my chassis. This is why, on this chassis I will be placing only 120mm fans in the front. I have also tried the 120mm Noctua Industrial fans, one time. They were very noisy from 1300rpm and above.

@doyll, according to your experience and understanding, which 120mm fans would you consider better than the 3 Noctua NF-S12A I now have? "Better" means more silent and more efficient.

Thank you very much!

ps: I will read your links!


----------



## doyll

Stacked fans (push/pull) on cooler are only one fan of flow .. and in your application it's the lower airflow rated fan. Only one counts. Second is only moving the same air at same speed. My guess is your push/pull is wasted use of lower speed fans. Use them as additional intakes.
Two fans side by side is 2x as much airflow as one.

Grills drop 10-30% of airflow, filters do similar. Therefore a 3:2 ratio of intake to exhaust is about right. Just be sure you have equal amount of intake and exhaust vent area. Not same number of intake & exhaust fans, but similar airflow area means same or less resistance to exhaust airflow as intake .. which allows intake fans to work at their best.









Can you use 140mm fans instead of 120mm fans? Thermalright TY-140 series fans are same or little better than NF-A14 fans .. and cost less too. They even look the same.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23229617


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Stacked fans (push/pull) on cooler are only one fan of flow .. and in your application it's the lower airflow rated fan. Only one counts. Second is only moving the same air at same speed. My guess is your push/pull is wasted use of lower speed fans. Use them as additional intakes.
> Two fans side by side is 2x as much airflow as one.


Ah, okay, I see!

So the correct amateurish calculation for my current fan setup is something like this?

3 x Noctua NF-S12A = 3 x 107.5 = 322.5 m³/h (Intake Flow)
(2 x NF-A14 IPPC-2000 PWM) + Noctua NF-A14 PWM = (2 x 140.2) + 140.2 = 420.6 m³/h (Exhaust Flow)
Result: *-98.1* m³/h, Negative Pressure = the dust is not blown out of my chassis but it is sucked into my chassis?
Is this correct, taking in consideration that I have not calculated grills + filters drop?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Grills drop 10-30% of airflow, filters do similar. Therefore a 3:2 ratio of intake to exhaust is about right. Just be sure you have equal amount of intake and exhaust vent area. Not same number of intake & exhaust fans, but similar airflow area means same or less resistance to exhaust airflow as intake .. which allows intake fans to work at their best.


Okay, I will take this into consideration later when I will have more time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Can you use 140mm fans instead of 120mm fans? Thermalright TY-140 series fans are same or little better than NF-A14 fans .. and cost less too. They even look the same.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23229617


I'm sorry but I cannot use 140mm fans in the front panel of my Corsair Air 540. I have tried it both with the Industrial 140mm fans and with the "simple" ones. It sounds like an airplane turbine! I believe that the reason for this is what I show with the red arrows in the following picture:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I hope you understand. If you have any 120mm fan to suggest me I would be delighted to research it.

Later today I will perform the two tests I've already mentioned: i)without my AIO's pull fans, ii) with the two 140mm fans as bottom-intakes.

Please tell me, as well, if placing the 140mm fans on top of my SSDs Drive Bays can hurt them - damage them, in ANY way!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Thank you!


----------



## andymiller

Add me in.


----------



## LostParticle

I've completed my testing.

In all the tests that follow:
- Ambient temperature : 19C
- Stress test: Prime95 27.9 Blend test, 10 minutes
- System's settings can be understood from HWiNFO64.
- All fans at full speed, all the time.

1) My fan setup as it was initially.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



CPU Cooler: Corsair H110
CPU1 (fan) : 2 x Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM (Push)
CPU2 (fan) : 2 x Noctua NF-A14 PWM (Pull)





2) After removing the 2 pull fans from my CPU cooler.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



CPU Cooler: Corsair H110
CPU1 (fan) : 2 x Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM (Pull)





3) After placing two 140mm fans at the bottom of my chassis, on top of the SSD disk bays.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



CPU1 : as in previous test
Chassis1, Chassis2 : Noctua NF-A14 PWM





4) I have also removed one SSD and tested with one of the fans placed directly on the drive bay


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



CP1, Chassis1, Chassis2 as in previous test.





Conclusion:
Little to none I have profited from placing two 140mm fans at the bottom of my chassis as intakes. When it comes to the temperatures things appeared to get worse! I might have earned in Positive pressure but I cannot check it out. According to my personal and without experience opinion, the reason that those intake fans did absolutely nothing is because they do not have from where to suck air. With the chassis being placed on the table there isn't open space at the bottom of it. I was expecting my GPU to benefit a bit. It did not - _even though I should stress test it to be sure_. Perhaps because my soundcard is in the way?

Why did I not gain anything?

The benefit from all this was that it led me to the removal of my two pull fans, resulting in a sweeter sound at full speed. At my everyday fan-presets nothing is heard.
I might get a filter for the bottom and place one intake fan there just to reassure Positive pressure - not to gain anything in temps.

Thank you.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Ah, okay, I see!
> 
> So the correct amateurish calculation for my current fan setup is something like this?
> 
> 3 x Noctua NF-S12A = 3 x 107.5 = 322.5 m³/h (Intake Flow)
> (2 x NF-A14 IPPC-2000 PWM) + Noctua NF-A14 PWM = (2 x 182.5) + 140.2 = 505.2 m³/h (Exhaust Flow)
> Result: *-182.7* m³/h, Negative Pressure = the dust is not blown out of my chassis but it is sucked into my chassis?
> Is this correct, taking in consideration that I have not calculated grills + filters drop?
> No
> 2x NF-A14 IPPC-2000 PWM @ 182.5 m³/h = total radiator flow.
> More likely it's the 2x NF-A14 PWM @ 140.2 m³/h = total radiator flow.
> 
> Okay, I will take this into consideration later when I will have more time.
> I'm sorry but I cannot use 140mm fans in the front panel of my Corsair Air 540. I have tried it both with the Industrial 140mm fans and with the "simple" ones.
> Why would 120mm fans make less noise than 140mm fans? My experience is if the front grill is generating noise, then regardless of what fans you use there will be noise. Only lowering fan speed will lower noise .. because it lowers airflow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe consider using PWM signal from CPU fan header and possibly GPU fan header to control case fan speed. This would allow fans to run slow until system is under higher work load at which time they would speed up to supply the needed airflow.
> 
> It sounds like an airplane turbine! I believe that the reason for this is what I show with the red arrows in the following picture:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you mount the 140mm fans above and below the 120mm mounting brackets? Could you use 140mm fans with 120mm mounting holes to get clean airflow? Or get radical and cut the 120mm mounts out to 140mm airflow clearance.
> 
> I hope you understand. If you have any 120mm fan to suggest me I would be delighted to research it.
> I'm not as up on 120mm fans as some are. The Nidec Gentle Typhoon are considered by most as the best airflow / noise made.
> 
> Have you looked at Cyclop's fan test thread?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-complete-and-comprehensive-array-of-tests-and-benchmarks/0_20
> 
> Or ehume's fan review
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/120mm_and_140mm_fan_comparison,18.html
> 
> Or Hardware FR interactive review
> http://www.hardware.fr/articles/874-35/recapitulatif-db-a-vs-cfm.html
> 
> Later today I will perform the two tests I've already mentioned: i)without my AIO's pull fans, ii) with the two 140mm fans as bottom-intakes.
> 
> Please tell me, as well, if placing the 140mm fans on top of my SSDs Drive Bays can hurt them - damage them, in ANY way!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!


Try raising the case up on some 30mm square blocks or similar so bottom fans can draw air without restriction.
Optimizing airflow is often a trial and error quest.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Try raising the case up on some 30mm square blocks or similar so bottom fans can draw air without restriction.
> Optimizing airflow is often a trial and error quest.


Thanks for your reply.

- I've edited my previous post much earlier, thank you.

- My current 120mm fans at full speed will never produce any kind of "turbine" noise, like all 140mm ones I've tried do, simply because there is nothing in front of their fan blades. (look at the photo)

- My PC already stands at 30 cm above the floor. It is on a glass shelf, though, or whatever is called.. I will probably test again with those bottom-intakes leaving some space below.

- I love it that they cover the area with no gaps. 140mm cannot do that - I'm not willing to modify anything.

- I was and I still am fully satisfied from my system's fans performance. The voltages I applied are shown in the tests, together with the temperatures, so I don't have to say much else.

Thanks.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## lesterq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lesterq*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> I just bought a noctua a14 3000 for my sff case which had my storage drives running at 47 degrees.
> 
> A cooltek/jonsbo C2.
> 
> My motherboard is a B75M-DGS with one 1 amp cha fan. And the fan is stated to run 0.57 amp.
> 
> Yet I read people saying that a noctua 3000rpm shouldn't be run off a motherboard header. Am I safe?


Anyone?? Would really like some input


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lesterq*
> 
> Anyone?? Would really like some input


You've answered your own question. 1A is 12W. This fan runs at a max 6.6W. That's slightly half of the max power of your header. So in theory, ONE is all it could support.

People have probably recommend not to do this due to we have an inherent urge that if we can do one, we can do two, three etc. etc. two of these fans on a header would pull 13.2W exceeding the headers rated capacity thereby subjecting it to failure.

IMHO, one is ok.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lesterq*
> 
> Anyone?? Would really like some input


For me the ideal way to power a fan like this is with an adapter that send rpm to and gets PWM signal from motherboard with a fan plug, and power from PSU with sata or molex connector


I don't know of a single PWM fan power adapter available commercially, but 3x & 4x PWM splitters are available. Gelid makes a nice on.


Be careful of the others like Akasa. Too many wires to single pin causes wires to stress fatigue and break. They do this when we get into case and wires get move so when case is closed up and system stated we find a fan is not working or is running at full speed. So we go back into case, find the loose wire, solder it back on, close up and re-start and guess what .... another fan has same problems.







If it'd all you can get, ties up the wires to reduce the flexing into the pins.


----------



## GeneO

I like this splitter myself. Handles up to 8 pwm and is powered by sata power connector. Easily attaches to chassis.

http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter-sata.aspx

http://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-8-Way-Splitter-Power-Connector/dp/B00IF6R4C8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thanks for your reply.
> - I've edited my previous post much earlier, thank you.
> - My current 120mm fans at full speed will never produce any kind of "turbine" noise, like all 140mm ones I've tried do, simply because there is nothing in front of their fan blades. (look at the photo)
> - My PC already stands at 30 cm above the floor. It is on a glass shelf, though, or whatever is called.. I will probably test again with those bottom-intakes leaving some space below.
> - I love it that they cover the area with no gaps. 140mm cannot do that - I'm not willing to modify anything.
> - I was and I still am fully satisfied from my system's fans performance. The voltages I applied are shown in the tests, together with the temperatures, so I don't have to say much else.
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Glad to help. I've seen other cases with same problem with 200mm fans because of 140 / 120mm fan mounts. Enthoo Pro and Enthoo Luxe for example. I don't know why cases are not designed with removable mount fittings like this drawing I sent to Phanteks.


----------



## Timid

Anyone know if the DH-15 fits in a CM HAF 922 without any issues? This is with the side fan installed.


----------



## ZeVo

Debating on whether the D15 is a worthy upgrade from the D14, just because I have some blowoff money. ?


----------



## mironccr345

NH-U9B SE2 and three NF-P12's.

__
https://flic.kr/p/16827680581


__
https://flic.kr/p/16802886276


__
https://flic.kr/p/16208815843


----------



## lesterq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> You've answered your own question. 1A is 12W. This fan runs at a max 6.6W. That's slightly half of the max power of your header. So in theory, ONE is all it could support.
> 
> .............
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> For me the ideal way to power a fan like this is with an adapter that send rpm to and gets PWM signal from motherboard with a fan plug, and power from PSU with sata or molex connector
> [IMG ALT=""
> 
> ..............


Thanks for the reassurance.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Glad to help. I've seen other cases with same problem with 200mm fans because of 140 / 120mm fan mounts. Enthoo Pro and Enthoo Luxe for example. I don't know why cases are not designed with removable mount fittings like this drawing I sent to Phanteks.


Thanks for your help - support









Interesting designs, interesting idea!

Thanks for the links, as well, in your previous post; +REP.

Today, most probably, I will try with a bottom - intake fan, after taking out one of my SSDs (and having that area of the bottom of my chassis without anything below it). I do not expect anything "dramatic" because even if I remove that drive sled at the bottom there's still a piece of metal below it. Also, with the drive sled removed I might face difficulty placing the fan.

I'll edit this post if I will finally try this.

Thank you.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I've got
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Having issues with my NF-P14's in my rig and figured I'd ask here before creating my own thread. I can't get any PWM control over my 4 fans using the Swiftech 8-way splitter. RPM reports just fine, but no matter what speed % is set I get 1500RPM. I can get control over individual fans if they're hooked up directly to the mobo headers, so I've pretty much narrowed it down to the splitter itself. Is this a known issue with the swiftech splitter? If so is there a better alternative? I have the modmytoys low-pro PCB splitter, but not the female-female extension cable to make it work (why its not included by default still boggles my mind).


I'm using Phanteks PWM Fan hub to control my NF-P14 FLX fans. It can split both PWM and voltage readings for you between up to 11 fans. I'm using two and have a relay of 8 and 6 fans on each, for each radiator.


----------



## Wallboy

Just a little tip for those using the 4 pin Y-Cable that come with Noctua fans. I noticed the cable is really stiff on the single connector side that plugs into a motherboard fan header. This makes it difficult to make a sharp angle to run it behind your motherboard for cable management without putting a lot of stress on your motherboard connector. This is caused by the stiff heatshrink. So what I did was just cut off the heatshrink on the single male connector side, leaving the two other female ends and sleeving alone. You can then make real sharp angles without any stress on the connector.


----------



## BrettJSr72

here it is in all its splendor.


----------



## happy hopping

does anyone has problem with fan controller running Noctua fans? Like the fan fin shakes a bit, but refuses to start?


----------



## SinJint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happy hopping*
> 
> does anyone has problem with fan controller running Noctua fans? Like the fan fin shakes a bit, but refuses to start?


Your not applying enough voltage to run the fan, this happens with all fans.


----------



## happy hopping

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinJint*
> 
> Your not applying enough voltage to run the fan, this happens with all fans.


how do you fix it? the fan controller is brand new

I can replace it under warranty.

But here's something I don't understand, in the last 2 days, it boots up just fine w/ no 0 rpm on this Lamptron controller.

Now, don't tell me the Lamptron can "Learn" from this. And yet I can't explain why it fails a no. of times since last Fri. and in the past 2 to 3 days, it boots up fine everytime


----------



## r3skyline

Extremely late to the party but am now part of the noctua club


----------



## Lyxchoklad

Hi. I'm using a Noctua NH-U12S and I just love how silent the NF-F12 is. I switched the anti vibration pads for alpacools anti vibration frame. I wiggled its pwm pin through a whole I punched out.


----------



## Lyxchoklad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> NH-U9B SE2 and three NF-P12's.
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/16827680581
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/16802886276
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/16208815843


Love your rig. It looks so clean.


----------



## Lyxchoklad

Here's my rig. It's a NZXT S340 that I painted and flipped.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lyxchoklad*
> 
> Love your rig. It looks so clean.


Thank you! You have clean looking rig too.


----------



## Wallboy

Just got finished building my system. 2x NF-A14 PWM intake, 2x NF-A14 exhaust, and a D15 cooler with the two included NF-A15's. I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a good fan profile setup?

Currently I have it set in my VII Hero BIOS to all the same for every fan. The lowest fan speed until the CPU reaches 40C, then it slowly ramps up to 50% fan speed at 50C, and then again slowly ramps up to 100% at 70C. These are just my initial settings, I haven't gamed or stressed it yet. Currently with every fan running 350~ RPM under idle/light load, my CPU (4790k) is 30C, while the system is nearly virtually silent at low loads.

Just curious what kind of fan profile everyone else is using.

Thanks.


----------



## happy hopping

I'm totally new on using fancy fan controller. Let me ask 2 quick questions:

1) for 14 cm Noctua fan, if during boot up, the rpm is set to be low, say 300 rpm, would the corresponding voltage be too low for the fan to spin and thus, won't start?

2) if the above is true, on my fan controller, there is an option to boost the start, call Start Boost function, it provides 12V to all chnl. for 3 sec., even if they are supplied w/ min. voltage.

Say if I want the above noctua fan to rotate at 300 to 500 rpm, and they won't start up properly, am I correct that I should enable the start boost function then? And keep the voltage to whatever the equvialent that runs at 300 to 500 rpm?


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happy hopping*
> 
> I'm totally new on using fancy fan controller. Let me ask 2 quick questions:
> 
> 1) for 14 cm Noctua fan, if during boot up, the rpm is set to be low, say 300 rpm, would the corresponding voltage be too low for the fan to spin and thus, won't start?
> 
> 2) if the above is true, on my fan controller, there is an option to boost the start, call Start Boost function, it provides 12V to all chnl. for 3 sec., even if they are supplied w/ min. voltage.
> 
> Say if I want the above noctua fan to rotate at 300 to 500 rpm, and they won't start up properly, am I correct that I should enable the start boost function then? And keep the voltage to whatever the equvialent that runs at 300 to 500 rpm?


not sure about one since I control my controller on start up would automatically spin the fans at max rpm before the fan control takes over and settles the fans to the user defined parameters.


----------



## happy hopping

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cephelix*
> 
> not sure about one since I control my controller on start up would automatically spin the fans at max rpm before the fan control takes over and settles the fans to the user defined parameters.


I have that option before I install the controller. I thought I don't want to hear the noise of the 3 sec. spin, so I disable it.

So what brand is your controller? My one is Lamptron, it gives me the option to enable the start off spin or not


----------



## cephelix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happy hopping*
> 
> I have that option before I install the controller. I thought I don't want to hear the noise of the 3 sec. spin, so I disable it.
> 
> So what brand is your controller? My one is Lamptron, it gives me the option to enable the start off spin or not


Ahh,i personally wouldn't mind the 3 second full spin.makes it known that things are working. Mine is just an nzxt sentry 3.can't seem to find lamptron controllers here and there have been quite a few reports locally where the controllers become defective after only a short period of usage.so the distributor stopped bringing it in.weird thing is,overseas,lamptron controllers don't have this problem


----------



## happy hopping

but is that what makes the difference? I guess I have to wait for someone else who can disable start up boost to confirm that


----------



## rybonator1990

Would anybody know where I could find the metal fan clips for a NH-C14? I bought it used from a friend, he can't find his second set of clips anywhere.


----------



## equinoxe3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rybonator1990*
> 
> Would anybody know where I could find the metal fan clips for a NH-C14? I bought it used from a friend, he can't find his second set of clips anywhere.


From what I've heard, Noctua support is very forthcoming so you could drop them a line ([email protected]) and ask them if they can send you some, especially as these are not very expensive parts


----------



## rybonator1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *equinoxe3d*
> 
> From what I've heard, Noctua support is very forthcoming so you could drop them a line ([email protected]) and ask them if they can send you some, especially as these are not very expensive parts


Thanks! I'll give it a try.


----------



## happy hopping

survey question: for those who monitor fan speed, what rpm do you run your 14 cm noctua at?


----------



## vicyo

about 850~900RPM. There's almost no difference in noise running slower than that for me


----------



## NIK1

Anybody here use the Noctua NF-A14 industrial PPC-2000 rpm pwm fans to cool a liquid cooling radiator. Just wondering how noisy they would be under 2000 rpm like 1500 and lower.


----------



## equinoxe3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happy hopping*
> 
> survey question: for those who monitor fan speed, what rpm do you run your 14 cm noctua at?


650 RPM for idle/web, climbs up to around 800-850 RPM for gaming, and 1100 RPM fully maxed out (P95 during summer)


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Anybody here use the Noctua NF-A14 industrial PPC-2000 rpm pwm fans to cool a liquid cooling radiator. Just wondering how noisy they would be under 2000 rpm like 1500 and lower.


Yes, I use them together with the other fans you can see in my sig rig. They are pushing air through my Corsair H110 in a pull set up: my AIO is on the top of my chassis pulling air out. I usually run them at 650 RPM all day long this period - average ambient temperature in my area = 19 - 20C. I have absolutely no heating issues at all and of course, they are inaudible. Of course, this depends from each person's usage (the software he runs).

When I set them to their max, so at around 1830 RPM in my case, I hear a certain "humming" noise which in *my* system and in *my* environment sounds approximately 



. Please, take in serious consideration what I've just underlined - bold-ed. When it comes to loudness I can just say that they sound pretty convenient to me.

I am very satisfied from these fans, I consider them the best selection for my current and any future AIOs, and I wish to purchase two more for a Push-Pull set up, for whenever I will wish to use it. Here is a recent test I made.

My suggestion: borrow one from a friend or purchase one, and do your own testing, in your system and in your environment. A fan like this will never go wasted because it can be surely used as an extremely productive chassis fan, as well. And finally, if you will dislike it that much, like if you will... hate it (!), you can always return it and purchase something else.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happy hopping*
> 
> survey question: for those who monitor fan speed, what rpm do you run your 14 cm noctua at?


NH-D15
650 rpm idle
850-1100rpm load


----------



## b4d17

1x Noctua NF-A14 FLX
2x Noctua NF-S12A FLX

Installed yesterday


----------



## Tennobanzai

I've recently been using a NH-L9i and when I flipped the fan to exhaust outward, the temps have lowered by 4-5C. Anyone get similar results? I'm using a GT14 on it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai*
> 
> I've recently been using a NH-L9i and when I flipped the fan to exhaust outward, the temps have lowered by 4-5C. Anyone get similar results? I'm using a GT14 on it.


I've found this usually better cooling. Both for CPU and motherboard components. Often even more the you are seeing.


----------



## Lyxchoklad

Noctua NH-U12S user here to remind you voting has opened for amateur MOTM. Only 2 noctua coolers have entered the fray. Let your Voices be heard through votes for air cooling







Air cooling can be sexy too.


----------



## deathroll

Hey folks,

I was using 2x Corsair AF140L as intake in my Air 540 case. I have bought two used Noctua NF-A14 FLX to replace with AF140Ls.

I realized Noctua ones are running louder than Corsair's. Do you think there is a problem with fans, should I sent to warranty? And do you prefer NF-A14 FLX as case fan?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathroll*
> 
> Hey folks,
> 
> I was using 2x Corsair AF140L as intake in my Air 540 case. I have bought two used Noctua NF-A14 FLX to replace with AF140Ls.
> 
> I realized Noctua ones are running louder than Corsair's. Do you think there is a problem with fans, should I sent to warranty? And do you prefer NF-A14 FLX as case fan?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> ...
> 
> I'm sorry but I cannot use 140mm fans in the front panel of my Corsair Air 540. I have tried it both with the Industrial 140mm fans and with the "simple" ones. It sounds like an airplane turbine! I believe that the reason for this is what I show with the red arrows in the following picture:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> ...
> 
> - My current 120mm fans at full speed will never produce any kind of "turbine" noise, like all 140mm ones I've tried do, simply because there is nothing in front of their fan blades. (look at the photo)
> 
> ...
> 
> - I love it that they cover the area with no gaps. 140mm cannot do that - I'm not willing to modify anything.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## deathroll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*


It makes sense. Thank you


----------



## b4d17

Hi, anybody here used Noctua NH-U14S with Gigabyte GA-X79-UD5? Official site says that it is compatible, but touching first GPU slot, so I need some real life opinion.

Thanks!


----------



## vertical2

Hey, count me in...

I just installed my first Noctua product, the NH-D9L dual-tower mini-cooler, in my music PC.

looks very well designed and manufactured.

Super easy install, and CPU temps dropped 10° C.

Pics below.


----------



## lagittaja

Has anyone used a S12x series fan on a heatsink which has large fin spacing? For example the HR-02 Macho which has a fin spacing of 3.12mm?
Just looking for people who've done such a thing if there are any.
Of course ehume has done the excellent 'The Well Dressed Megahalems' megareview but Megahalems fin spacing is a rather tight 2mm compared to the Macho









I'm going to order the S12B Redux PWM model to replace the TY-147. Will do thermal comparisons with my 3770K, both at stock+uv and OC+ov.
OC clocks I'll probably bump to 4.8-4.9Ghz since it's pretty much the max I can do on this particular chip without having to shove closer to 1.5V through it








If I've got the time I'll add AP-15 for comparisons sake at 12V and 7V.

And while I'm at it.. Anyone who owns both a S12B PWM and S12A PWM? Thoughts about them? Do you prefer one over the another?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happy hopping*
> 
> survey question: for those who monitor fan speed, what rpm do you run your 14 cm noctua at?


My NF-A14 PWM idles at 350rpm. Which is pretty much most of the time. Load rpm depends completely on load (doh) but max it will go is ~1200rpm since I'm using the included low noise adapter. The A14 is hooked up to the CPU FAN header along with the TY-147 using a Y cable.


----------



## trodas

Count me it









Using a Noctua NH-C12P SE14 cooler, thinking about replacing the fan for better airflow (Thermalright TY-141), but currently still using the default Noctua fan


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trodas*
> 
> Count me it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a Noctua NH-C12P SE14 cooler, thinking about replacing the fan for better airflow (Thermalright TY-141), but currently still using the default Noctua fan


That doesn't even really make any sense. Why would you buy a Noctua cooler, and then slap another brand's fan on there? Those coolers are designed and optimized to work with their brand of fans.

Sure other fans will work, but it defeats the whole purpose of buying their brand.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That doesn't even really make any sense. Why would you buy a Noctua cooler, and then slap another brand's fan on there? Those coolers are designed and optimized to work with their brand of fans.
> 
> Sure other fans will work, but it defeats the whole purpose of buying their brand.


Oh snap!


Seriously though, it is a valid question.

p.s. Welcome to the club!


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That doesn't even really make any sense. Why would you buy a Noctua cooler, and then slap another brand's fan on there? Those coolers are designed and optimized to work with their brand of fans.
> 
> Sure other fans will work, but it defeats the whole purpose of buying their brand.


Noise/temp preference? Same thing can be said about watercooling or any heatsink. I've slapped on Gentle Typhoons on my NH-U9B, NH-C14, NH-L9i with great results.


----------



## equinoxe3d

I've replaced the fan on my NH-C12P after a while, not because the NF-P14 included with it wasn't good, but it was 3-pin and my motherboard could only control PWM fans


----------



## epic1337

question, how far can NH-L9i cool if its by overclocking?

G3258 + NH-L9i in an SFF intrigues me


----------



## lagittaja

Not that far honestly. The NH-L9x65 will get you much further (and quieter) and would be my choice if I'd be building a SFF and would of course dictate which case I'd choose.

There's a couple of reviews out there now of the L9x65, for example modders-inc and in their tests with stock 4770K the L9x65 was on par with Deepcool Gabriel with it's 92mm fan spinning at 1500RPM.
At full tilt running the fan at 2500rpm the L9x65 comes really close to Phanteks TC12LS.
Both of these other coolers I mentioned have 120mm fans..

In Hardware BBQ's review the L9x65 load temps are 68C while NH-U9S/D9L are much closer to 60, this is with 4790K stock. However with G3258 the L9x65 load temps increase from 55 to 62 when going from stock [email protected] to [email protected]

http://www.modders-inc.com/noctua-nh-l9x65rev/4/
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?290410-Noctua-NH-L9x65
http://www.hardwarebbq.com/noctua-nh-l9x65-cpu-air-cooler-review/

You can find more reviews in different languages here: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=reviews


----------



## epic1337

as much as i'd like to have an L9x65 myself its not available locally.
and importing one would cost me three times due to shipping cost and tax.

on the other hand theres the NH-L12 but i'd be restricted to 92mm due to SFF height.
from what i've seen running only 92mm would reduce it's effectiveness to that of L9i.

would it affect L9i or L12 performance if i reverse the fan?
and on that matter the PSU's intake is directly on top.


----------



## lagittaja

Running NH-L12 with only the 92mm bottom fan actually doesn't hinder it's performance level THAT much.
Here's FrostyTech's data in a more easy to read format. Links to the respective reviews at the bottom. I included NH-U9S since we now roughly know how it compares to L9x65










I also included few other low profile coolers from different manufacturers just for reference. Along with the Mugen Max just for giggles.
Such a shame FrostyTech has not reviewed the L9x65 yet, would have been great to see it's results in the same table.

Where do you live? It hasn't been that long since the L9x65 was released and here in Finland only two online stores have it, neither have it in stock. And the biggest, well actually not biggest but rather the more popular computer online store here in Finland, Jimm's PC Store, doesn't have the L9x65 even listed








Not even Newegg has the NH-L9x65 listed







So if I we're you, I'd contact your local store's and ask them to stock it.

Having the fan of the PSU and CPU cooler's fan close to each other isn't such big of a deal.
And for your question, making the NH-L9i fan pull instead of push would lower it's performance a little. Not by a huge amount but still. Sure it's not optimal but they're not going to starve each others dead.

With the NH-L12 it is a little bit more tricky. Having the 92mm fan *push* instead of _pull_ would in theory improve it's performance. But whether or not the 92mm fan has enough space to breath down there is another question which I can't answer.
It most likely would not hinder it's performance, I'd make a wild guess and say it's about equal in real world scenario inside case.

AND of course there's the question of what about the motherboard components. What would they like if you'd have the air flowing up from the motherboard instead of having the fan push down on the motherboard.
It would most likely affect VRM temperatures negatively but since we're talking of Intel here and overclocking a dual core CPU I wouldn't worry about it much if at all.

NH-L9i
NH-L12
NH-U9S
Raijintek Pallas
Phanteks TC12LS
Zalman CNPS8900 Extreme
Scythe Kozuti
Scythe Mugen Max

P.S. Just for the sake of saying it, I didn't hand pick any coolers for the above comparison, just quickly browsed backwards FrostyTech's list of reviews and picked LP cooler reviews I saw. Might have missed some, idk and don't care.


----------



## epic1337

L12 seems to be more impressive than i thought, although it is 60% more expensive too.
the major concern though is ambient temps, if the AC is on my ambient averages at 27~28c.
but if the AC is off it wildly varies at 32~36c, depending on whether the rig is in full tilt and mom is using the oven.

as for the L12, as you've noted L12's 92mm fan doing push might improve it.
and if the PSU is on top it might as well be push-pull with the PSU pulling, no?
i wonder if someone could do a test on L12 in inverted configuration at low* to emulate the low airflow of the PSU.

i'm from the philippines, pretty out of the first ones to actually grab a stock.
and as much as i'd like to convince stores to take up stock i doubt they would.


----------



## lagittaja

Yup, the L12 is no slouch. Impressive cooler with the options it offers. And you can mount the 120mm under! It is a tight squeeze and might interfere with motherboard components and other stuff, like the 8pin CPU power. But it is a possible configuration.
Pictures by SilentPCReview

















SilentPCReview tested the NH-L12 on their AM3 test system with a Athlon II x4 630 (95W TDP). You can see their temperature numbers behind the link, including configurations of both fans, only 92mm bottom, only 120mm bottom, reference 120mm bottom.
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1261-page6.html
At [email protected] the stock 120mm bottom config is 7C better than stock 92mm bottom config. And with the fans running at 6V, in the almost inaudible level ([email protected], the 120mm config is 11C better.

Regarding your ambient temp. FrostyTech's rise over ambient figure for NH-L12 with only 92mm at low fan speed on 150W heatload is 32,9, even with 40C ambient it would mean 73C. And 150W heat load is quite a lot since we're talking G3258 here which stock TDP is 53W which is worst case scenario.

Yeah, that's technically a push/pull configuration









If you decide to go for G3258 and NH-L12 with the goal of overclocking it as much as possible, when your choosing your motherboard I'd make it a priority to make sure the 120mm fan fits underneath


----------



## epic1337

good point, the 120mm fan on bottom mount might be a good alternative to 92mm bottom.

i'll follow up once i decide which design on my case to go for, i'm still in the middle of hypothesizing possible layouts


----------



## lagittaja

Alrighty then. Let us know what you decide







If you end up with a NH-L12 I'd be interested know how it ends up working for you








And if you do, I hope you'd have the time to test the fan both in pull and push, either the 92 or 120.









In the meanwhile I'm waiting for more L9x65 reviews to popup. Mainly SPCR's since they've reviewed the U9S and D9L, hopefully they'll be able to score a review sample or funding for directly purchasing one of them.

My girlfriends rig is due for an upgrade (read X4 9650, DDR2, crap PSU, etc). When our budget allows I'll be upgrading it, dunno what I'll end up going with but I have few ideas.
For cooler I have a NH-U9B which is in my friends computer right now and I could claim it back. Or he buys it from me and I'll go and buy a NH-U9S or L9x65 depending on how well it does in SPCR's review, if they review it that is.
Personally that L9x65 just looks like the perfect small cooler. I like quite a lot the look of top down coolers and the airflow surrounding motherboard components receive isn't bad for them







Might change fan to a redux or paint the A9 though lol.


----------



## epic1337

well L9x65 is quite impressive, i'd expect it to be in the middle grounds of L12 92mm mode and L12 120+92mm mode.

as for my build, i'm thinking of doing an overhaul with the current one i use.
two builds so far is in my mind, a main rig, and a multi-purpose NAS+HTPC.

i've already done preliminary ideas on how to approach both.
the main-rig can be done in a sub 20L acrylic scratch build.
while the NAS is hovering between 25L~30L acrylic scratch build.
i'm still thinking how to best approach the placement of HDDs on both builds.
i've made a thread on a prototype acrylic case and done a test build already so i'm set for a primary design now.
the only problem i've encountered right now is i don't have any source for USB 3.0 DIY ports.

so thats the case, as for the main components inside, i'm thinking of getting skylake for the main rig.
while the NAS gets to inherit this still-alive-and-kicking-hard i3-2100+HD7950.


----------



## 8bitjunkie

just got done painting my NH-L9i fan

http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/ungreedy/media/nes pc/IMG_20150423_193517_zpskjrldsas.jpg.html


----------



## doyll

@8bitjunkie
Nice bit of work!
Could you write and post a tutorial of exactly how you did it and what you used?

On another note, pancake / downflow coolers often perform better with fan reversed and pulling air out of cooler.
 

Do you think I used too many arrows?


----------



## 8bitjunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @8bitjunkie
> Nice bit of work!
> Could you write and post a tutorial of exactly how you did it and what you used?
> 
> On another note, pancake / downflow coolers often perform better with fan reversed and pulling air out of cooler.
> -snip-
> 
> Do you think I used too many arrows?


I'll make a little write up when I have a little bit more time,was pretty easy tho.

now on your air flow testing.

This is in 8-bit Nintendo and the bottom of the case is pretty congested with hardware and such. I have about 30mm from the top of the cooler to the top of the case . Do you think I could benefit from flipping the coolers fan? I am going to try it for myself anyways, I been wondering about this for awhile.

currently cooling a i5-4670k @ 4ghz delided.
also has a gtx-750ti

do you have any write ups of your testing?

here is my build log if you want to check out the NES. (still need to update it with the new cooler)
http://www.overclock.net/t/1526008/buildlog-nes-3-0-htpc-nes-build


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @8bitjunkie
> Nice bit of work!
> Could you write and post a tutorial of exactly how you did it and what you used?
> 
> On another note, pancake / downflow coolers often perform better with fan reversed and pulling air out of cooler.
> -snip-
> 
> Do you think I used too many arrows?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll make a little write up when I have a little bit more time,was pretty easy tho.
> 
> now on your air flow testing.
> 
> This is in 8-bit Nintendo and the bottom of the case is pretty congested with hardware and such. I have about 30mm from the top of the cooler to the top of the case . Do you think I could benefit from flipping the coolers fan? I am going to try it for myself anyways, I been wondering about this for awhile.
> 
> currently cooling a i5-4670k @ 4ghz delided.
> also has a gtx-750ti
> 
> do you have any write ups of your testing?
> 
> here is my build log if you want to check out the NES. (still need to update it with the new cooler)
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1526008/buildlog-nes-3-0-htpc-nes-build
Click to expand...

you might get more benefit if you also add an additional exhaust fan on top of the flipped-over fan, it'll act as a straight-away exhaust.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitjunkie*
> 
> I'll make a little write up when I have a little bit more time,was pretty easy tho.
> 
> now on your air flow testing.
> 
> This is in 8-bit Nintendo and the bottom of the case is pretty congested with hardware and such. I have about 30mm from the top of the cooler to the top of the case . Do you think I could benefit from flipping the coolers fan? I am going to try it for myself anyways, I been wondering about this for awhile.
> 
> currently cooling a i5-4670k @ 4ghz delided.
> also has a gtx-750ti
> 
> do you have any write ups of your testing?
> 
> here is my build log if you want to check out the NES. (still need to update it with the new cooler)
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1526008/buildlog-nes-3-0-htpc-nes-build


Lots of work and detail in your build!








Here is the review of AXP-100 I did showing the heat difference on open bench


----------



## epic1337

i forgot to ask before, but will NH-L12 have differences in performance based on orientation?
motherboard on it's side, if heat-pipes are facing the GPU(bottom), or if heatpipes are facing the RAM (sides), or top-wards for that matter.

i'm aiming for an ASRock B85M-HDS and i think i can pull off a 120mm bottom fan if i make the heatpipe face the RAM.
that is IF the heatpipes won't block the ram.


----------



## equinoxe3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> i forgot to ask before, but will NH-L12 have differences in performance based on orientation?
> motherboard on it's side, if heat-pipes are facing the GPU(bottom), or if heatpipes are facing the RAM (sides), or top-wards for that matter.
> 
> i'm aiming for an ASRock B85M-HDS and i think i can pull off a 120mm bottom fan if i make the heatpipe face the RAM.
> that is IF the heatpipes won't block the ram.


As long as you don't install it with the heatpipes facing up you'll be fine.
From the instructions : http://www.noctua.at/pdf/manuals/noctua_nh_l12_manual_en.pdf
Quote:


> Caution:
> In tower style cases, please avoid installing the NH-L12 with the bends of the heatpipes pointing upwards as this may result in reduced cooling performance


----------



## Minnie Cee

First time overclocker and NH-D14 owner here. Would like to join too









I also started a post (see below link). Would love to hear about your advice and opinion









http://www.overclock.net/t/1553893/high-socket-temperature


----------



## PCModderMike

All my fans showed up today. Really excited to get them in my build.


----------



## Drags

I currently am running 2x NF-F12 PWM's for my h100i and waiting on the 200mm A-Series fan release as I need that for a DIY case...

[...]

From today's point of view it looks like this product will finally become available in the second half of 2015. Please understand that I can't share further details about this unreleased product yet.

Kind regards,
Andreas Karner
Noctua support team

***************
Noctua - geräuschoptimierte Premium Komponenten
Noctua - sound-optimised premium components
E: [email protected]
W: http://www.noctua.at
***************

[...]


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> All my fans showed up today. Really excited to get them in my build.


Oh man! Those redux fans look sexy! Nice!


----------



## PCModderMike

Thanks man!


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Yup, the L12 is no slouch. Impressive cooler with the options it offers. And you can mount the 120mm under! It is a tight squeeze and might interfere with motherboard components and other stuff, like the 8pin CPU power. But it is a possible configuration.
> Pictures by SilentPCReview
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> SilentPCReview tested the NH-L12 on their AM3 test system with a Athlon II x4 630 (95W TDP). You can see their temperature numbers behind the link, including configurations of both fans, only 92mm bottom, only 120mm bottom, reference 120mm bottom.
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1261-page6.html
> At [email protected] the stock 120mm bottom config is 7C better than stock 92mm bottom config. And with the fans running at 6V, in the almost inaudible level ([email protected], the 120mm config is 11C better.
> 
> Regarding your ambient temp. FrostyTech's rise over ambient figure for NH-L12 with only 92mm at low fan speed on 150W heatload is 32,9, even with 40C ambient it would mean 73C. And 150W heat load is quite a lot since we're talking G3258 here which stock TDP is 53W which is worst case scenario.
> 
> Yeah, that's technically a push/pull configuration
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you decide to go for G3258 and NH-L12 with the goal of overclocking it as much as possible, when your choosing your motherboard I'd make it a priority to make sure the 120mm fan fits underneath


this got me thinking, how high is the clearance of the 120mm bottom?

i went through a bit in gathering overclocking G3258 on non-Z boards and the often issue that came up is the VRM overheating.
apparently G3258 can pull upwards of 100w when overclocked, so i might need a board with sinked VRM, the question is how "tall" can i get away with.
although at the moment, i'm trying to find out whether i need to forgo with using GA-B85M-HD3.

issues concerned of:
$75 GA-B85M-HD3:
1) 2 ram slot, too close to CPU, HSF will overlap.
2) revision 2.0/3.0 only has 3phase VRM, overheating issues at more than 95W load.
3) VRM has no heatsink on all revisions, revision 1.x can tolerate up to 125W load.
4) 3rd slot PCI-e x1 with xonar DX, blocks airflow from bottom intake.

$84 GA-B85M-D3H:
1) 4 ram slot, 4,2 will overlap with HSF, can i use 3,1 without issues?
2) VRM heatsink is a bit tall and too close, can't confirm whether NH-L12 120mm bottom will fit.
3) revision 2.0 only has 3phase VRM, with heatsink it should tolerate more than 95W load.
4) has no PCI-e x1 slot, i need one for my xonar DX, 4th slot is unusable.

$114 GA-Z97M-DS3H:
1) 4 ram slot, 4,2 will overlap with HSF, can i use 3,1 without issues?
2) 4phase VRM without heatsink, will most likely tolerate up to 125W load.
3) 3rd slot PCI-e x1 with xonar DX, blocks airflow from bottom intake.
4) moderately more expensive.

$72 Asrock B85M-GL:
1) 2 ram slot, too close to CPU, HSF will overlap.
2) poor VRM mosfets, VRM has no heatsink on all revisions, overheating is highly probable.
3) 3rd slot PCI-e x1 with xonar DX, blocks airflow from bottom intake.

$98 Asrock H97M:
1) good VRM mosfets but has no heatsink, 4phase VRM should let it tolerate up to 125W load.
2) 2 ram slot, too close to CPU, HSF will overlap.
3) has no PCI-e x1 slot, i need one for my xonar DX, 4th slot is unusable.
4) notably more expensive.

why couldn't they just make a B85 motherboard with:
1) PCI-e x16 on 2nd slot, PCI-e x1 on 1st slot.
2) dram slot further away from CPU socket.
3) shorter VRM heatsink, or at least further away from CPU socket.
4) 6SATA ports.



according to this image from noctua, the clearance without the bottom fan, from the CPU is 43mm.
the CPU mounting overall thickness is around 7mm so that makes it roughly 50mm of clearance.
on the other hand, the fan's thickness is presumably 27mm, which lowers the clearance to 23mm.

27mm for a fan is a bit absurd though, GT1850 is only 25mm and i assume is much better.


----------



## iCrap

Noctua now cooling my 3D Printer. This little fan is soooo quiet


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> according to this image from noctua, the clearance without the bottom fan, from the CPU is 43mm.
> the CPU mounting overall thickness is around 7mm so that makes it roughly 50mm of clearance.
> on the other hand, the fan's thickness is presumably 27mm, which lowers the clearance to 23mm.
> 
> 27mm for a fan is a bit absurd though, GT1850 is only 25mm and i assume is much better.


The fans used on the L12 are the Noctua NF-F12 PWM & Noctua NF-B9 PWM - both are 25mm. GT1850 is better for airflow. However, it would be noisier and no PWM option. And the faster GTs can get some strange resonances when undervolted to spin in the 950-1100rpm range.

Sucks about the limited capabilities of those boards. Have you looked at some Z97 series?


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Noctua now cooling my 3D Printer. This little fan is soooo quiet


That looks so cool! (pun intended)

Do you have a video of the 3D printer printing another Noctua for a Push/Pull setup? ;-)


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> according to this image from noctua, the clearance without the bottom fan, from the CPU is 43mm.
> the CPU mounting overall thickness is around 7mm so that makes it roughly 50mm of clearance.
> on the other hand, the fan's thickness is presumably 27mm, which lowers the clearance to 23mm.
> 
> 27mm for a fan is a bit absurd though, GT1850 is only 25mm and i assume is much better.
> 
> 
> 
> The fans used on the L12 are the Noctua NF-F12 PWM & Noctua NF-B9 PWM - both are 25mm. GT1850 is better for airflow. However, it would be noisier and no PWM option. And the faster GTs can get some strange resonances when undervolted to spin in the 950-1100rpm range.
> 
> Sucks about the limited capabilities of those boards. Have you looked at some Z97 series?
Click to expand...

PWM function wouldn't matter much for me, i'd rather have the CPU running at it's coldest for efficiency.
since it'd end up in an SFF chassis, it might even encounter overheating issues with lower RPMs.

yeah, i'm currently leaning on going with GA-Z97M-DS3H, even though its $40 more expensive.

i'm not actually after full blown features, i only need a bare few features to support my windows based NAS+HTPC function.
features that i'd need for this unit is simply 5SATA slots (1SSD 4HDD), 4phase VRM sinked if possible or 6phase unsinked.


----------



## MicroCat

@epic1337

A good PWM map wouldn't allow the CPU to overheat - it ramps up the rpm based on temp. However, it may not ramp down much if case airflow is an issue. If you have a GTs to try, then why not? Might be worth experimenting with the fan(s) pulling rather than pushing. Sometimes downdraft style coolers can suck in in their own heated air.


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> @epic1337
> 
> A good PWM map wouldn't allow the CPU to overheat - it ramps up the rpm based on temp. However, it may not ramp down much if case airflow is an issue. If you have a GTs to try, then why not? Might be worth experimenting with the fan(s) pulling rather than pushing. Sometimes downdraft style coolers can suck in in their own heated air.


i'm actually planning on putting the 120mm fan on the bottom side as lagittaja suggested.
the configuration doesn't have the space to have a top-mounted 120mm due to the PSU being directly above it.
but since the PSU is on top, i can mount the 120mm fan on the bottom in push configuration, doing a push-pull with the PSU's fan instead.
with that configuration, not only will i enable consistent airflow, the PSU act's as a direct exhaust which helps prevent recycling of hot air.


----------



## benjamen50

Noctua NH-D14 (with messy cable management lol)


----------



## Sazexa

I was using a Noctua NH-L9i for a while. But I got a new heatsink as I'll be upgrading my CPU soon.

The new heatsink is the NH-D9L, I haven't seen too many pictures of these. It's just around 110-120mm tall I believe? Anyways, here's a picture of the new heatsink. Looks good in there! (Upgrading from an Intel i5-4590S to a i7-4790K)


----------



## traianescu

as my case (lian li pc v359) have have left and right sides with 2 x 120mm intake fans plus one rear exhaust should be fine using the s12a pwm fans for intakes ? below is my dust filter



i am still trying to convince myself that s12a pwm is a better solution than p12 pwm, even if i read that the s12a are not working well with dust filter.. I tried to contact even Noctua and their said that had tried s12b flx version in a cooler master itx case with similar filters and was fine..

maybe the last solution is to buy only one and if it seems not enough, to use it as rear exhaust


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *traianescu*
> 
> as my case (lian li pc v359) have have left and right sides with 2 x 120mm intake fans plus one rear exhaust should be fine using the s12a pwm fans for intakes ? below is my dust filter
> 
> 
> 
> i am still trying to convince myself that s12a pwm is a better solution than p12 pwm, even if i read that the s12a are not working well with dust filter.. I tried to contact even Noctua and their said that had tried s12b flx version in a cooler master itx case with similar filters and was fine..
> 
> maybe the last solution is to buy only one and if it seems not enough, to use it as rear exhaust


i think a NF-P12 would work better on that configuration, if i remember right, S12A works better without filters, the grille on that case looks horribly constricting.
so while S12B flx might've been fine as noctua said, i'd expect NF-P12 to perform better, had you asked whether which fans are best used though?

i suggest buying one of each, and use both, solves both problems.


----------



## traianescu

well, i don't have so many options if i want to stay with Noctua.
As read on the thread "Tator Tot's Big "Quiet" 120mm & 140mm Fan Round-Up", p12 have some oil leakage problems (this fan use the old SSO bearing).. then, as 120mm quiet fans for case, there is no other than s12a.. i've tried to read the feedbacks on amazon and on few other online sellers, but it is difficult to understand how many use s12a as intake fan with dust filter


----------



## doyll

That 3mm holes on 4.5 x 5.8mm spacing is strange. Most vents use 60degree alignment of holes .. forming triangles / diamonds This grill patter is 45degree pattern.
3mm hole on 4mm spacing triangle pattern has 51% open area for airflow,
3mm hole on 5mm spacing triangle pattern has 33% open area,


----------



## MooMoo

Can anybody confirm is there clicking/clickish noise on NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM when running @5V?
I watched few youtube videos and couldn't hear any, but I want to be sure before I toss some money on it.

I'm planning to put it under router to cool it down and the router is pretty near to me so I can hear the noise if there is it.

I tried couple 120&140mm brown noctua fans but they made little clicking noise and/or didn't start spinning properly.

Bought NF-A6x25 PWM and NF-A8 PWM but they couldn't cool the router as good as my old 140mm NZXT case fan.


----------



## Tennobanzai

NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM or NF-A9 PWM is better?


----------



## lagittaja

At B9 max speed (around 1650rpm) the A9 moves less air (about a fifth less or so) than the B9 but produces more static pressure, about 50% more. And its quieter.
At full speed the A9 moves almost as much air as the B9, produces twice the pressure as the B9 and decibel wise is just about the same.
So take your pick. Where are you going to use it?


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> At B9 max speed (around 1650rpm) the A9 moves less air (about a fifth less or so) than the B9 but produces more static pressure, about 50% more. And its quieter.
> At full speed the A9 moves almost as much air as the B9, produces twice the pressure as the B9 and decibel wise is just about the same.
> So take your pick. Where are you going to use it?


My NH-L9i cooling my 4790K

As of right now my Gentle Typhoon is doing the best


----------



## lagittaja

Well I'd get the NF-A9 then. On full speed double the static pressure and it moves almost as much air as the B9. Since the L9i fins are spaced only 1.19mm apart you're gonna want something that can shove the air through that heatsink.
Although I'm not 100% if you'll gain anything, but I guess it'll depend on which 92mm GT you have. There's the AP12 (1700rpm), AP13 (2150rpm) and the AP14 (2650rpm).
I'm fortunate enough to own one of those AP12's, gotta say it's a phenomenal little fan. Too bad there aren't any detailed reviews of these out there. And shame they're not available anymore (afaik).

At least manufacturers airflow claims wise the 92mm GT's are supposed to move 44/58/71 m3/h respectively, or 25.9/34.1/41.8 CFM.
And Coolingtechnique measured 52 CFM on the NF-A9 or 88 m3/h while Noctua claims 78.9 m3/h.








Regarding static pressure, Noctua claims 2.28mmH2O on the NF-A9 while Coolingtechnique measured 2mmH2O.
Scythe product page for the 92mm GT's has a P/Q curve image. AP12 is listed at around 10 Pa max which translates to 1mmH2O, AP13 ~16 Pa > 1.63mmH2O and AP14 ~23.5 Pa > 2.4mmH2O.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Well I'd get the NF-A9 then. On full speed double the static pressure and it moves almost as much air as the B9. Since the L9i fins are spaced only 1.19mm apart you're gonna want something that can shove the air through that heatsink.
> Although I'm not 100% if you'll gain anything, but I guess it'll depend on which 92mm GT you have. There's the AP12 (1700rpm), AP13 (2150rpm) and the AP14 (2650rpm).
> I'm fortunate enough to own one of those AP12's, gotta say it's a phenomenal little fan. Too bad there aren't any detailed reviews of these out there. And shame they're not available anymore (afaik).
> 
> At least manufacturers airflow claims wise the 92mm GT's are supposed to move 44/58/71 m3/h respectively, or 25.9/34.1/41.8 CFM.
> And Coolingtechnique measured 52 CFM on the NF-A9 or 88 m3/h while Noctua claims 78.9 m3/h.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding static pressure, Noctua claims 2.28mmH2O on the NF-A9 while Coolingtechnique measured 2mmH2O.
> Scythe product page for the 92mm GT's has a P/Q curve image. AP12 is listed at around 10 Pa max which translates to 1mmH2O, AP13 ~16 Pa > 1.63mmH2O and AP14 ~23.5 Pa > 2.4mmH2O.


Thanks for the info. I'll probably try the NF-A9 in that case.

I have the AP13 and AP14. Noise wise I think the AP13 is perfect so if there's something that can outperform it with relatively the same noise I'll be all over it.


----------



## epic1337

has anyone here tried to grounding the tach wire?
on the surplus fans i have (at least on the 80mm ones i have), when i ground the tach wire the RPM increases by about 50%.
i discovered it after i accidentally shorted the ground and tach wire together.


----------



## lagittaja

Noctua at Computex 2015 - www.noctua.at
Noctua Computex 2015 Press-Kit (PDF)

Q1/16!
Quote:


> Featuring an ultra-tight 0.5mm tip clearance and a pressure/airflow (P/Q) curve that has been carefully fine-tuned for mid to high impedance applications, the new fan performs exceptionally well on CPU heatsinks and water-cooling radiators. Noctua also showcased a redux version of the NF-P12 that is going to be introduced at the launch of the new 120mm A-series fan, which is currently scheduled for Q1 2016.




See the PDF for P/Q curve details and some comparison stuff. For example on a radiator Noctua claims this

We shall see.. But looks promising! And now we finally know that the NF-F12 was just a one time experiment, rest in piece. I'm not going to miss it









They also showed a prototype 140mm fan that follows the same design approach as the above 120mm fan. Sweet! This one will release when the NH-U14S v2.0 launches with it.


And of course the 200mm fan some of you have been waiting for







Scheduled Q4/15.

And what are all of those mounting holes. A set of 200mm of course. And 180mm?


----------



## b4d17

The new NH-D15S is pretty sweet, finally something I can put on LGA-2011


----------



## Tyler Dalton

The new NF-A12 (guessing it will be the name) looks VERY promising. It appears to be very similar to the Gentle Typhoon and is 1800rpm.


----------



## lagittaja

Yeah, 9 blades with very similar blade geometry along with a tight tip clearance. This should be good







And thicker blades than on the A14's for example.

Although I don't think it will be NF-A12. Since they will be bringing a 140mm version of it too. And we already have NF-A14.

Here's a couple of videos I found on Youtube
Chinese video. ~1:08 for the next-gen 120mm, ~1:42 he shows it close up




German video




English video with not so good quality and not really worth watching..




What baffles me is LinusTechTips coverage of Noctua this year. Only blabbering about their NF-F12 and NF-A14 LTT Editions.. I mean like what?


----------



## the Duff

Do they have a release date for the D15S yet? Matx user here and I've been waiting on this cooler since last years Computex. I keep checking Newegg and nothing yet.


----------



## lagittaja

May 17th Noctua released them and said the NH-D15S will ship in June.
Noctua presents two asymmetrical 140mm CPU coolers

Been listed in Germany for a while and in stock. It's even in stock here in Finland.
There's one seller on Amazon.com that has in stock. Might be end of the month till better availability.


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> this got me thinking, how high is the clearance of the 120mm bottom?
> 
> i went through a bit in gathering overclocking G3258 on non-Z boards and the often issue that came up is the VRM overheating.
> apparently G3258 can pull upwards of 100w when overclocked, so i might need a board with sinked VRM, the question is how "tall" can i get away with.
> although at the moment, i'm trying to find out whether i need to forgo with using GA-B85M-HD3.
> 
> issues concerned of:
> $75 GA-B85M-HD3:
> 1) 2 ram slot, too close to CPU, HSF will overlap.
> 2) revision 2.0/3.0 only has 3phase VRM, overheating issues at more than 95W load.
> 3) VRM has no heatsink on all revisions, revision 1.x can tolerate up to 125W load.
> 4) 3rd slot PCI-e x1 with xonar DX, blocks airflow from bottom intake.
> 
> $84 GA-B85M-D3H:
> 1) 4 ram slot, 4,2 will overlap with HSF, can i use 3,1 without issues?
> 2) VRM heatsink is a bit tall and too close, can't confirm whether NH-L12 120mm bottom will fit.
> 3) revision 2.0 only has 3phase VRM, with heatsink it should tolerate more than 95W load.
> 4) has no PCI-e x1 slot, i need one for my xonar DX, 4th slot is unusable.
> 
> $114 GA-Z97M-DS3H:
> 1) 4 ram slot, 4,2 will overlap with HSF, can i use 3,1 without issues?
> 2) 4phase VRM without heatsink, will most likely tolerate up to 125W load.
> 3) 3rd slot PCI-e x1 with xonar DX, blocks airflow from bottom intake.
> 4) moderately more expensive.
> 
> $72 Asrock B85M-GL:
> 1) 2 ram slot, too close to CPU, HSF will overlap.
> 2) poor VRM mosfets, VRM has no heatsink on all revisions, overheating is highly probable.
> 3) 3rd slot PCI-e x1 with xonar DX, blocks airflow from bottom intake.
> 
> $98 Asrock H97M:
> 1) good VRM mosfets but has no heatsink, 4phase VRM should let it tolerate up to 125W load.
> 2) 2 ram slot, too close to CPU, HSF will overlap.
> 3) has no PCI-e x1 slot, i need one for my xonar DX, 4th slot is unusable.
> 4) notably more expensive.
> 
> why couldn't they just make a B85 motherboard with:
> 1) PCI-e x16 on 2nd slot, PCI-e x1 on 1st slot.
> 2) dram slot further away from CPU socket.
> 3) shorter VRM heatsink, or at least further away from CPU socket.
> 4) 6SATA ports.


a follow up on this, i'm scrapping the initial plan but will still stay the same course.

i'm gonna end up with these instead:
*$110* - lga1150 Haswell i3-4170 ( isn't it cheap!? i found a local retailer who sells it at that price, brand-new of course ).
*$130* - lga1150 Gigabyte H97N WiFi ( a bit too expensive for my taste, but isn't out of budget, i'm getting a fair bit of goodies along with it so all is well i suppose ).
*$56* - Noctua NH-L12 ( of course this, otherwise it wouldn't be as cool! [pun intended] ).
*$??* - R9-390 ( none available yet, i'm still waiting, waiting ).

the reason i changed my mind is that... i got into an argument with a friend, hes a builder, though not an enthusiast, hes pretty much logical to a fault that its sometimes insulting.
first my question was how "high" can i overclock a G3258 on an NH-L12, in an SFF build, and on a hot tropical climate?
4.2Ghz should be easy, 4.5Ghz? he doubt it, so lets take 4.2Ghz as a base line and 4.5Ghz as an extremely successful project.
his answer that hit the nail on the coffin "how does an extra 500Mhz make the G3258 any better? push it a bit more to 4.5Ghz and thats still only 800Mhz more."
so indeed, how does an extra 500Mhz~800Mhz, which computes to a shallow 14%~22% more clock than an i3-4170, really worth more than hyperthreading and AVX?

anyway, theres still quite a bit of issues with this idea over the previous.
1st, i'm gonna ditch my Xonar DX for a Xonar U7, a pity but it should be worth while.
2nd, the compatibility of the NH-L12 has brought up an issue, open the spoilers for said issues.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







this is a similar build i'm planning to make, i found that NH-L12's heatpipe will overlap with the dram, forcing me to reuse my 2x4GB 1333CL9 VLP dimm.
and the other issue is that in an ITX, the I/O basically obstructs the under-part of the NH-L12 as well, which wouldn't allow me to use the 120mm on the bottom.
though using the 92mm isn't an issue anymore with an i3-4170, it would enable me to let the PSU directly rest on top of the HSF, a huge bonus.
i've already modded my PSU with a NF-P12 so this makes things a lot more interesting.









now i'm currently waiting for a R9-390 card to land locally before i start pulling the trigger.


----------



## lagittaja

Well idk about the price of that i3. Does it include VAT? In euros it's a little under 100€.
In Germany the i3-4130 starts at 102€ while the i3-4170 starts at 111€. The only difference between them being clockspeed, 300Mhz.
And those are with Germany's 19% VAT.

And is there a specific reason why you're looking for the R9 390? Why not get a R9 290 instead? The only difference between 290 and a 390 is that 390 has higher clockspeeds oob and double the VRAM. Which doesn't really offer anything, ref 290 vs ref 390 ~9-10% diff whether it's 4K or 1080p.
benstore.com.ph has a Gigabyte R9 290 for 22k philippine peso's where hardwarezone.com.ph said that the gigabyte r9 390 would retail 559$ (usd?) which would be 25k.
You might even find a 290X for about the same. At least in Germany 390's are ~330-355€ where as you could get a Gigabyte Windforce 290X for 315€.. Or an Asus Matrix for 325€.


----------



## epic1337

yes it already includes vat, if i import my own the tax is 30% on top of shipping costs which makes this very cheap.

the local supply of R9 290 and 290X is still back from release date before they dropped price, which puts 290 4GB at $500+ and 290X 4GB at $600+.
cheapest 290X is that VTX3d blower type and who knows how noisy that is.


the R9 390 shouldn't be 559 USD upon arrival, it actually depends on who imported it, so far theres one R9 390 which i don't like priced at $350.

edit: while i'm at it, R9 390 should have a way faster vram clock, and according to the posts on Fury thread, Hawaii's ROPs are bandwidth starved.
so this might be one of the contributing factors as to why R9 390 is faster than R9 290, aside from driver improvements of course.
as for the gpu clock speed, i plan on underclocking it and make the vcore drop below 1v, to keep the fans stuck at an inaudible level during load if possible.


----------



## Ziver

Hi,

I just bought Corsair 900D . I wanna change default fans on front panel. I dont wanna louder fan, which one noctua best for me (120mm) ?

NF-P12 or NF-S12B redux-1200 ?


----------



## Aleckazee

hello fellow noctua owners. I have a question regarding the NF-F12 fan. Is it ok for me to have it running with 2 low noise adapters? I ask because it's spinning so slow that I can see the individual blades as they spin, I'm worried it might damage the fan? Also, is it ok for it to be mounted horizontally? Thanks in advanced.

EDIT: Sorry, disregard the first question I had the bios setup to slow it down as well. I'm still interested if it's ok for it to be mounted horizontally tho.


----------



## MicroCat

Yes, the Noctua is a fluid bearing variant, so it will work fine horizontally.


----------



## dzb87

Which Noctua 140mm square fans can be successfuly used with 5 / 7 / 12 volts (all-three voltages)?
I am looking for a replacement for Fractal GP-14 fans in my Define R4 and I would like to use them with the fan switch (three voltages - as above).
It would be nice to have wide range of rpms.
I know Noctua adds LN and ULN adaptors but I'm not sure what's their parameters and what voltage they cause. Is it true that LN adaptor gives 7V and ULN gives 5V?


----------



## lagittaja

For 5V/7/12V I think the only ones that start at least on 5V are the NF-P14s redux-1500 models, not sure about the redux 1200 model. Even then they (1500 models) still spin ~750-800rpm.

If I were you I'd buy the 900rpm model of the NF-P14s redux, I'm not 100% sure but it should be capable of starting at least 7V.. Couple of those at the front at full speed move a lot of air..
At ~850rpm the NF-P14s moves about as much air as NF-A14 at ~1000rpm while being slightly quieter (~13dBA vs ~16-17dBA).

And talking of the NF-A14, ULN starts at a little above 7V and at 8V spins ~480rpm and FLX starts at 6V and it spins ~600rpm. According to coolingtechnique.

And no, LN/ULN doesn't equal 7V/5V. Different fans draw different amount of current and the adapters have a resistor in them which is of fixed value.
http://www.blackfiveservices.co.uk/fanspeed.shtml
Crude method for calculating resistor value for dropping fan speed.

I know this is the Noctua club but I might as well mention the Phanteks F140MP to you. Noctua's bearing is vastly superior to the rifle bearing Phanteks fans have but it has strikingly similar performance to that of the NF-P14 and has a really wide RPM range if that's what you're looking for. 4V/~400rpm to 12V/~1400rpm.


----------



## darealist

Man I wish Noctua would make GPU coolers.


----------



## lagittaja

I'm not sure that I would even want to see that. Maybe they could pull it off. Arctic couldn't do both properly, look at how good their GPU coolers are vs CPU coolers.
Gotta say with the copper-diamond heatsink base they showed of couple years ago on a GPU cooler would be rather interesting.
But I've feeling they're not even considering that short-term, even their "partner" Coolink doesn't have anything else than that nowadays useless "Swap" GPU cooler listed on their website, they used to have the GFXChilla.
They're probably heavy into finishing their ANC project with Rotosub and their other prototypes.

But I do wonder what happened to that 38mm thick NF-F12 Rotosub ANC prototype they showed off at Computex 2013. Probably ditched in favor of the next gen 120mm that's coming out soon?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> ...
> At ~850rpm the NF-P14s moves about as much air as NF-A14 at ~1000rpm while being slightly quieter (~13dBA vs ~16-17dBA).
> ....


What data are you using for your above statement.
I'm guessing that it is free flow specifications .. and few of us use fans setting out in the open on our desks.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What data are you using for your above statement.
> I'm guessing that it is free flow specifications .. and few of us use fans setting out in the open on our desks.


Seems all all the YT 'expert' reviewers do desktop testing. And if it's on YouTube it must be correct.









It's us enthusiasts who are doing silly things like mounting fans in cases and on coolers. How can the videographer get those sweeping faux-crane shots if the object da product art is stuffed inside some cramped steel box?!!


----------



## BuZADAM

HI ALL

what do you think about my 3 fans setup and fans choice

thanks


----------



## MicroCat

Think it looks great...except for the missing Noctua A15 fans...on the D15...

Oh wait! Where's the D15!!???


----------



## dzb87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> For 5V/7/12V I think the only ones that start at least on 5V are the NF-P14s redux-1500 models, not sure about the redux 1200 model. Even then they (1500 models) still spin ~750-800rpm.
> ...


Thank you for the explanation.

I decided to go for PWM fans and ordered 3x Noctua NF-A14 PWM + Gelid PWM Splitter.
I am goint to connect splitter to CPU_FAN (which is the only one working PWM connector on my Gigabyte Z87 mobo) and then fans to the splitter.
Will everything work fine?
I tested the CPU_FAN connector with single PWM fan that I found at home - NF-A9x14 PWM.
It seems to work fine in 900-2200rpm range but I wasn't able to get rpm lower than 900. What can be the cause of this? There is 500rpm minimum in the specification.

The GPU is the main heater in my case so I also plan to use Speedfan to automatically control these 3 case fans by GPU temperature readings.
I would like to have silence in idle and airflow when gaming.
Anyone using speedfan for such purposes?


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> Thank you for the explanation.
> 
> I decided to go for PWM fans and ordered 3x Noctua NF-A14 PWM + Gelid PWM Splitter.
> I am goint to connect splitter to CPU_FAN (which is the only one working PWM connector on my Gigabyte Z87 mobo) and then fans to the splitter.
> Will everything work fine?
> I tested the CPU_FAN connector with single PWM fan that I found at home - NF-A9x14 PWM.
> It seems to work fine in 900-2200rpm range but I wasn't able to get rpm lower than 900. What can be the cause of this? There is 500rpm minimum in the specification.
> 
> The GPU is the main heater in my case so I also plan to use Speedfan to automatically control these 3 case fans by GPU temperature readings.
> I would like to have silence in idle and airflow when gaming.
> Anyone using speedfan for such purposes?


Motherboard control limitation more than likely. For example my Asus Z68 motherboard only allows 20-100% control on the CPU_FAN headers. Try using Speedfan, it's a bit more complicated to setup but in the end totally worth it.
Edit: Although make sure you've actually adjusted the fan profile, the default slope probably doesn't go all that low. Through BIOS or the EasyTune program if you use it.


----------



## Phillychuck

Hey folks, installed a NH-D15 today  Wow that mounting system is awesome!



Very close shave on the graphics:


----------



## BrettJSr72

Replacing all my retail fans with IPPC's; 4X NF-A14's and 5X NF-F12's. Going with positive flow inside a Cosmos II case. Trying to keep cool two Titan Xs with ACX 2 cooling. Intake will flow from three sides, (front,rear,and side panel) exhausting through the top. May heat up the courage a couple degrees.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Replacing all my retail fans with IPPC's; 4X NF-A14's and 5X NF-F12's. Going with positive flow inside a Cosmos II case. Trying to keep cool two Titan Xs with ACX 2 cooling. Intake will flow from three sides, (front,rear,and side panel) exhausting through the top. May heat up the courage a couple degrees.


Hello there

When you say NF-F12's you mean these Noctua fans?
IF so, doesn't their noise disturb you? And you have...five of them?! Wow!

In the setup shown in my sig-rig I have tried once two IPPC NF-F12 2000 PWM. The next day I returned them to the store. I could not handle their noise above 1200-1300 RPM. I could keep them only if I'd compromise to run them up to MAX 1100-1200 RPM. So, I've replaced them with the ones shown in my sig-rig. They run at full speed all the time, especially in the summer and I never hear anything besides the normal sound of a computer functioning. In the winter I can turn my system to a dead-silent one, too, but I prefer to hear it a bit. I WISH the IPPC NF-F12 2000 were more silent. I think it is impossible for a 120mm fan though (at that speed).


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello there
> 
> When you say NF-F12's you mean these Noctua fans?
> IF so, doesn't their noise disturb you? And you have...five of them?! Wow!
> 
> In the setup shown in my sig-rig I have tried once two IPPC NF-F12 2000 PWM. The next day I returned them to the store. I could not handle their noise above 1200-1300 RPM. I could keep them only if I'd compromise to run them up to MAX 1100-1200 RPM. So, I've replaced them with the ones shown in my sig-rig. They run at full speed all the time, especially in the summer and I never hear anything besides the normal sound of a computer functioning. In the winter I can turn my system to a dead-silent one, too, but I prefer to hear it a bit. I WISH the IPPC NF-F12 2000 were more silent. I think it is impossible for a 120mm fan though (at that speed).


Not the water/dust proof ones, no.The IP 52's I believe, same difference. The hum they make in my system isn't bad, plus I game with a Sennheiser Game Zero headset so, I barely if at all hear anything. I also have an Aquero 6xt fan controller running all the fans in accordance with software temps. They run pretty decently with the fan curve I have set, but will tweak a bit to get down to about 750-900 at idle and have it increase based on temp when gaming. Eventually I will add a full W/C loop so speeds should decrease a bit more but at the same time, I'll be adding a fan or two more


----------



## mstrmind5

Looking to replace my stock R4 fans and want something that will aid airflow, whilst also being quiet. I think 2 front intakes and 1 rear exhasut controlled by the stock 5,7,12v fanc controller might be enough for now. The front intakes wil be blocked by 6 hard drives,so static pressure will be needed I think. I might be leaning towards getting three NF-A14 FLX fans. Youtube videos of the sound/noise can't always be trusted but they seem okay. Would like feedback if they are pretty quiet whilst also helping with cooling.

Thanks.


----------



## dzb87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> Looking to replace my stock R4 fans and want something that will aid airflow, whilst also being quiet. I think 2 front intakes and 1 rear exhasut controlled by the stock 5,7,12v fanc controller might be enough for now. The front intakes wil be blocked by 6 hard drives,so static pressure will be needed I think. I might be leaning towards getting three NF-A14 FLX fans. Youtube videos of the sound/noise can't always be trusted but they seem okay. Would like feedback if they are pretty quiet whilst also helping with cooling.


Why not PWM version of A14?
I was looking for fan replacement for Fractal R5 and ordered three NF-A14 PWM because I was not sure if FLXs work well with 5/7/12V switch.
Additionally I think it will be more convenient to control fans via software than with manual switch.
I will have them in a few days and I will put here some info of how they work with mobo/speedfan control.
My goal is to control case fans by GPU temperature readings and achieve silence when GPU is idling and airflow when it heats up.


----------



## mstrmind5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> Why not PWM version of A14?
> I was looking for fan replacement for Fractal R5 and ordered three NF-A14 PWM because I was not sure if FLXs work well with 5/7/12V switch.
> Additionally I think it will be more convenient to control fans via software than with manual switch.
> I will have them in a few days and I will put here some info of how they work with mobo/speedfan control.
> My goal is to control case fans by GPU temperature readings and achieve silence when GPU is idling and airflow when it heats up.


I tried running some NF-F12 PWM with my motherboard sys fan headers and has some issue with the headers not being truly pwm and pulsing sounds from the fans - though this might have been because of the fan splitter. I did attempt to use speedfan but was a lot to figure out with my patience wearing thin.

See this post that another member answered about pwm fans http://www.overclock.net/t/1566673/advice-for-noob-considering-water-cooling/10#post_24227078


----------



## dzb87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> I tried running some NF-F12 PWM with my motherboard sys fan headers and has some issue with the headers not being truly pwm and pulsing sounds from the fans - though this might have been because of the fan splitter. I did attempt to use speedfan but was a lot to figure out with my patience wearing thin.
> 
> See this post that another member answered about pwm fans http://www.overclock.net/t/1566673/advice-for-noob-considering-water-cooling/10#post_24227078


Ok I understand that you cannot use CPU_FAN for case fan connection?
I am aware of this Gigabyte fail with non-PWM 4-pin connectors.
However I don't need PWM for CPU fan control (Noctua NH-D14 -> non-PWM fans) so I have CPU_FAN connector free.


----------



## doyll

I've built several Defines' and helped many others on airflow and fans. Most are PWM case fans using CPU_fan header and/or GPU_fan header. There are several post in "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig. 1st post is index. Just click on relevant subjects. I'm a lazy git, and got tired of re-posting same thing over and over.


----------



## XTAC

After playing around with my own personal light show for the first few months, I finally put the toys away and strapped on my Industrial NF-AF14i 2000 PWM's along with several Be Quiet SW2 140mm case fans. This had always been the master plan in my ultra quiet case. A14i's were pretty impressive. They offer the same noise at 1600 rpm that most of my others make at 1200 with the bonus being more flow and a smoother sound. It all seemed to be coming together perfectly, until I slowed the fans down to my desktop-low speeds. Between 500-1100 rpm, both A14i's have a significant hum that sounds an awful lot like PWM control noise. Past 1100 the wash of air covers it up. I also have a pair NF-F12i 2000 PWM, so I knew what to expect. This is not the same high end motor noise. I immediately took them off the Noctua splitter and gave each their own motherboard header (Asus X99-PRO). Same thing, maybe slightly reduced. I systematically moved them to every header on the board, including the CPU & OPT, and then finally my molex powered Asus Fan card extension. Still the same. It's loud enough to be clear over the water pump and the clicky overhead ceiling fan. Both A14i's make the noise.

Is this typical of the NF-A14 industrial? High end noise I can live with, but the hum at 500-600 when I am trying to work can't continue. I haven't been able to find any posted complaint about low speed noise. I can't possibly have received two off fans? I have a small window left where I could exchange them for the DC 3 pin variant. Oddly, that is one way to get rid of the noise. If I tell my Asus BIOS the A14's are a DC fan instead of PWM, the noise instantly stops. Any thoughts appreciated.


----------



## doyll

Control them with DC?


----------



## XTAC

Thought about that for 5 seconds... but what the Asus controls do is take a 5/12th reading of the max speed and set that as the lowest possible RPM. 830 rpm is too fast for a low end. Also, I have plenty of fans I would be willing to burn out this way, but the NF-A14i's aren't one of them, particularly when a DC version exists.

If anyone has the DC 3 pin model, how low can you run? I know it has a 7V start and some boards may not be able to drop down after that.


----------



## Sky-way

Just got my first Noctua fan yesterday, the amazing NF-A8 80mm PWM fan. I just bought one to check fitment, fit perfectly so I ordered one more along with an NF-F12 iPPC 3000 to replace my rad fan. They will be in on Monday and I'm really excited to check out the ppc nf f12, it looks nice.


----------



## Sky-way

Just got my NF-A8 and NF-F12 iPPC 3000 fans today. All I can say is HOLY CRAP!!! The NF-F12 is extremely powerful and pushes a lot of air, especially through a rad. I have it on my Corsair H60 and compare to the Corsair provided fan, the Noctua really puts it to shame. The air coming out the back of my rad feels the same as the Corsair fan in open air, truly incredible performance. I know they are pricey, but totally worth every penny imo.

I was fully expecting an unbearably loud fan seeing as how the PPC NF-F12 is designed for server use but to my surprise, it wasn't nearly as harsh as I thought it was going to be. It is loud, but not in a bad way, it's air movement noise instead of fan/motor noise. I am extremely impressed with Noctua and I don't think I will ever buy another brand again (except maybe an ek, the furious vardar ff5 is supposed to be really good).


----------



## dzb87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XTAC*
> 
> Is this typical of the NF-A14 industrial? High end noise I can live with, but the hum at 500-600 when I am trying to work can't continue.


I have three regular A14s PWM (non industrial) and they're perfectly quiet.
When system is not under serious load they run @25% PWM (450rpm) and are inaudible in Fractal Design R5 case.
The next amazing thing is that they start and work @10% PWM which is 160-170rpm (!). Absolutely without any sound.

BTW. Why did you choose industrial version? Do you use them at more than 1500rpm?


----------



## mstrmind5

I'm also curious about certain cases and noctua fans. I have two NF-A14FLX fans as front intakes on a fractal r4. At 5v they are fine, quiet and no bearing noise. However, at 7v there is some sort of acoustics going on - not sure if it's the fans, air turbulence, case/air channel acoustics, but it is a low end pulsing sound. Can't quite figure out what it is, but any owners with this case/fan combo I'd like to hear your experience. Also with two front intake fans so close together, is air turbulence/interference from each fan factored into the design?


----------



## XTAC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> BTW. Why did you choose industrial version? Do you use them at more than 1500rpm?


Why for the black, of course... I have a pair NF-12 industrials and find them very useful for radiator duty. I think they actually sound better when faced with some resistance, unlike just about every other fan made. I don't strictly need the rpm's above 1500, but I liked that they are there for benchmarks gone wrong. I am not surprised the standard A14's are silent all the way through and I didn't expect the industrial versions to compare on that level. But the low level, high pitched whine was unexpected. It's sounds more electrical than mechanical. I haven't been able to find any mention of people with similar issues and I can't believe both fans are duds. My first instinct was the motherboard, but after moving the fans to run off the power supply via molex, I feel like I have to let the X99-PRO off the hook (for now).


----------



## cadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> I'm also curious about certain cases and noctua fans. I have two NF-A14FLX fans as front intakes on a fractal r4. At 5v they are fine, quiet and no bearing noise. However, at 7v there is some sort of acoustics going on - not sure if it's the fans, air turbulence, case/air channel acoustics, but it is a low end pulsing sound. Can't quite figure out what it is, but any owners with this case/fan combo I'd like to hear your experience. Also with two front intake fans so close together, is air turbulence/interference from each fan factored into the design?


Perhaps you've got a bad fan? I run mine at 7v on the R5 and have no sort of pulsing sounds. Try one at a time and see if it goes away.


----------



## BrettJSr72

I have an NF-A14i that I thought was bad, wined as it sped up and slowed down as an exhaust powered off the Mb. Moved it to another position powered via swiftec splitter and it's fine. Even the replacement I received is fine. Can't explain it but I'm keeping the both, Amazon can charge me for the replacement they sent out.


----------



## XTAC

It is the same on both fans and so it always seemed more likely to be design or another component, rather than dual duds. After more reflection, I think I am probably being too critical. I had lowered the noise floor substantially and my set-up by design was meant to be passive with low speed fans. The case is fairly open and thin. The BeQuiet case fans are ridiculously soft. Noctua doesn't play games with their marketing. Industrial means industrial and I use that phrase all the time to describe the NF-F12 iPPC. That's how I would describe this one too. If you want the lowest possible noise levels, you shouldn't use things with the word "industrial" in the product title. As obvious as that is, I was surprised I was unable to find any one else making even an irrational complaint across the web. I have had some issues on this motherboard with power regulation, so at this point humming from the board with 5 PWM fans running would have been par for the course.


----------



## alus415

Hi all,

I installed a Noctua NH-D14 and have my 4690k oc to 4.2ghz , wondering if anyone here can tell me if temps are good with this cooler. 2 hours of BF4/Witcher 3 I'm in the 59-63c range. I know they are ok but after reading reviews and hearing so much about this noctua coolers I was hoping low 50c's.

Anyways just wondering what temps are you guys getting.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alus415*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I installed a Noctua NH-D14 and have my 4690k oc to 4.2ghz , wondering if anyone here can tell me if temps are good with this cooler. 2 hours of BF4/Witcher 3 I'm in the 59-63c range. I know they are ok but after reading reviews and hearing so much about this noctua coolers I was hoping low 50c's.
> 
> Anyways just wondering what temps are you guys getting.


Temps seem reasonable, but understand the expectation to be a bit lower. What are the ambient temps and crucially what are the cooler intake temps? What GPU? Is the GPU is heating up the D14 intake air by a few degrees? To remove the GPU effects, what are the temps running a test like IBT? What case and intake fan config?

Have you see doyll's post about monitoring cooler intake temps with a cheap indoor/outdoor thermometer? Getting a great cooler to be great requires great case airflow.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alus415*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I installed a Noctua NH-D14 and have my 4690k oc to 4.2ghz , wondering if anyone here can tell me if temps are good with this cooler. 2 hours of BF4/Witcher 3 I'm in the 59-63c range. I know they are ok but after reading reviews and hearing so much about this noctua coolers I was hoping low 50c's.
> 
> Anyways just wondering what temps are you guys getting.


How long does it take for system to reach 59-63c? How hot is it 15 minutes into serious gaming? My system peaks in less than 5 minutes .. and cools back to idle just as fast.


----------



## Steele84

Hey guys, I'm looking at getting a NH-L12 but I'm concerned about my ram clearance. I have G.skill TridentX memory that are 2.1 in height. If they will not clear I was wondering if I could spin the cooler 180 and have the heat pipe bend on the DIMM side, b/c I know the heat sink will clear my MOSFT cooler on the I/O side of the MB. I have a GIGABYTE GA-F2A88X-UP4 board. Thanks!


----------



## lagittaja

Your motherboard is greenlighted by Noctua.
As for as RAM.
Quote:


> Caution:
> Depending on the orientation of the cooler, the NH-L12 extends over the RAM slots of the mainboard. The cooler offers sufficient clearance for all standard size memory modules, but you won't be able to use memory modules higher than 43mm.
> *For further information regarding the compatibility of specific RAM please visit our RAM compatibility list.*






Code:



Code:


DDR3         G.SKILL Trident X series        Compatible when the upper heatsink is removed as described by G.Skill.

So basically either way will do.
With the heatpipes facing the RAM the first slot is blocked.
With the heatpipes facing the opposite direction you need to remove the top heatsinks from your DIMM's if you wish to have the first and second slot populated, not sure about the third. Still looking for a A88X mobo with L12 on it mounted that way.


----------



## Steele84

Thanks so much for the reply! +rep


----------



## alus415

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Temps seem reasonable, but understand the expectation to be a bit lower. What are the ambient temps and crucially what are the cooler intake temps? What GPU? Is the GPU is heating up the D14 intake air by a few degrees? To remove the GPU effects, what are the temps running a test like IBT? What case and intake fan config?
> 
> Have you see doyll's post about monitoring cooler intake temps with a cheap indoor/outdoor thermometer? Getting a great cooler to be great requires great case airflow.


Hi, been busy last 2 days, anyways I have a Define R4 case, I have a 140mm fan up front as intake,you can't see it because the radiator is on the top fan slot but is there, also have a 120mm on the middle/bottom as intake and a rear 140mm exhaust fan . My gpu has a water cooler installed, the radiator is mounted up front, the temps of my gpu are 50c on load . 

Do you guys think that a swiftech h220x will yield 40-50c temps on a 4690k @4.2ghz?

Another problem is that i recently got my aio cooler for my gpu but im limited to mounting it up front because the noctua is so large that i cant mount it up top or rear exhaust.


----------



## alus415

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> How long does it take for system to reach 59-63c? How hot is it 15 minutes into serious gaming? My system peaks in less than 5 minutes .. and cools back to idle just as fast.


My idle temps 4690k @4.2ghz no added voltage are in the mid 30s. My load temps are 60-63c avg that is after testing and playing witcher, BF4 for 1+ hour. Soon i stop playing it cools back down fast.

I guess since is not a crazy overclock i was expecting lower temps with the noctua.


----------



## Sky-way

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alus415*
> 
> My idle temps 4690k @4.2ghz no added voltage are in the mid 30s. My load temps are 60-63c avg that is after testing and playing witcher, BF4 for 1+ hour. Soon i stop playing it cools back down fast.
> 
> I guess since is not a crazy overclock i was expecting lower temps with the noctua.


Those are pretty good temps. My 4690k is at 4.4ghz 1.265 vcore with an H60 idles at 30-32C and while playing BF4 for hours on end it stays right around 64C.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alus415*
> 
> Hi, been busy last 2 days, anyways I have a Define R4 case, I have a 140mm fan up front as intake,you can't see it because the radiator is on the top fan slot but is there, also have a 120mm on the middle/bottom as intake and a rear 140mm exhaust fan . My gpu has a water cooler installed, the radiator is mounted up front, the temps of my gpu are 50c on load .
> 
> Do you guys think that a swiftech h220x will yield 40-50c temps on a 4690k @4.2ghz?
> 
> Another problem is that i recently got my aio cooler for my gpu but im limited to mounting it up front because the noctua is so large that i cant mount it up top or rear exhaust.


Yeah, the cpu cooler is getting pre-heated air from the gpu aio. So considering that, your temps are great!

If it were me, I'd start modding the case. Either removing the 51/4 drive cage and replacing with a 140mm intake and/or removing the bottom drive cage and putting the gpu aio in its place on the bottom - the ssd could be velcro'd somewhere and the hard drive suspended on bungees from the case top. Or...remove all the pci slot covers, the metal in-between and around it and put the aio there.

Or...the simple thing would be to move the aio to replace the case exhaust and turn the exhaust fan into another intake. Of course, that's too simple. So...I would also cutout the exhaust mesh - extend the aio so it pokes out the back like a rad should and put a wire grille on the aio Noctua exhaust fan for safety purposes.


----------



## alus415

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Yeah, the cpu cooler is getting pre-heated air from the gpu aio. So considering that, your temps are great!
> 
> If it were me, I'd start modding the case. Either removing the 51/4 drive cage and replacing with a 140mm intake and/or removing the bottom drive cage and putting the gpu aio in its place on the bottom - the ssd could be velcro'd somewhere and the hard drive suspended on bungees from the case top. Or...remove all the pci slot covers, the metal in-between and around it and put the aio there.
> 
> Or...the simple thing would be to move the aio to replace the case exhaust and turn the exhaust fan into another intake. Of course, that's too simple. So...I would also cutout the exhaust mesh - extend the aio so it pokes out the back like a rad should and put a wire grille on the aio Noctua exhaust fan for safety purposes.


Oh I wanted the simple way too but I can't mount the rad in the case exhaust slot because the Noctua cooler is so large there is hardly any room, I tried it and there was less than 1/2 inch of space between the Noctua and the rad/fan mounted so the tubes would not fit, here is an image of my noctua and my exhaust fan, there is exactly 3" of space and the Rad/fan meaure 2.75"


I could remove the bottom hd cage but that means losing my HD.

I do have 1 140mm intake in the bottom front bracket , you can 't see it because the HD cage and the rad on the top slot won't let you see it but here is my next question I have a push/pull setup for my AIO as intake as I didn't want to disrupt airflow , should I turn it into exhaust up front? Here is my setup before the AIO. Now i have bottom 140mm and rad on top slot.


----------



## epic1337

how about bottom mount? right behind that PSU, put it in sideways so that the hose is right behind the panel.

or a mount like this, the hose should be on the top part.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> how about bottom mount? right behind that PSU, put it in sideways so that the hose is right behind the panel.
> 
> or a mount like this, the hose should be on the top part.


That could work...especially if some rear grill modding magic was manifest...and the rad was proudly having an out-of-case experience.


----------



## doyll

Key to better cooling is supplying components with cool air, not the heated exhaust from radiator.
















Removing HDD cage and putting hDD in 5.25" bays, then moving radiator down .. or putting radiator in bottom as exhaust are both good ideas.

Mounting to back with fan on outside is also an option.

Swiftech H220-X and H240-X will not fit in top of R4, but will fit in the front with a simple modding.
http://forums.swiftech.org/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=3038


----------



## epic1337

first time i've heard bottom to be used as exhaust, i though those are mostly intakes?


----------



## lagittaja

Well it's a perfectly viable option if you can get away with having the radiator below the pump. Usually the radiators top section acts as a sort of a reservoir where the air inside the AIO loop can hang out. With it below the pump the air can escape from there and hang out at the top of the loop which would happen to be the pump and having air inside a pump is a bit...

Of course there's the thing that exhausting the hot air through the bottom could affect your PSU's noise levels.

Personally I'd just try and find a way to fit the radiator on the rear of the case. Or the top rear most position.
You could have the fan outside of the case to better accommodate the GPU cooler's tubes.


----------



## alus415

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> how about bottom mount? right behind that PSU, put it in sideways so that the hose is right behind the panel.
> 
> or a mount like this, the hose should be on the top part.


I can't mount it on the rear exhaust because there simply is not enough space between the rad/fan and the Noctua cooler, the tubes would not fit. even in your drawing you show the tubes over the noctua cooler. Basically with the radiator and fan mounted I measured 3' of space between the Noctua heatsink , the radiator/fan measure 2.75" leaving only .25 of a inch of space.

Now you guys gave me an aide and maybe it would work placing the fan on the outside of the case as exhaust but how efficient is that going to be when it would also be taking hot air from directly from the Noctua with no push /pull fan? as it would be on the outside?.

These Noctua coolers are really good but their so massive that they limit you and what type of AIO you can install later on.


----------



## epic1337

CPU tower HSFs exhaust are less hotter but none the less would increase temps.
the setup only works best if you don't mind the GPU increasing in temps a bit, but helping the CPU decrease in temps.

on a side note, cant the bottom be used?


----------



## thekingbeyond

Has anyone experienced ticking/clicking with the P14s redux 1200s, bought 4 and the ticking is very loud. I have 5 x p14 flx in my main rig none of these tick, I understood from reviews the redux were just different colors and shapes, have Noctua lowered the quality of the electronics to hit a price point?


----------



## MicroCat

I had a couple Redux clickers - RMA'd them. Replaced with chocolate and cream models and all was serene.


----------



## thekingbeyond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> I had a couple Redux clickers - RMA'd them. Replaced with chocolate and cream models and all was serene.


Definitely not up to Noctuas normal quality, they have been sent back to amazon and a few p14 flx are on their way:thumb:


----------



## epic1337

redux might be using those parts that didn't pass QC for the cream flavored colored fans.


----------



## LostParticle

Who knows the latest news on the 200mm fan? What is going on?

Thank you.


----------



## lagittaja

Haven't heard any news regarding it since Computex. Scheduled for Q4'15
http://noctua.at/main.php?show=news_list&news_id=101&lng=en


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Haven't heard any news regarding it since Computex. Scheduled for Q4'15
> http://noctua.at/main.php?show=news_list&news_id=101&lng=en


Gah... I see.

Okay, thank you.


----------



## zero9178

I am joining the club









I got 5 nf-f12 (front and back left chamber)

and 3 nf-A14 (two in the top one in the back right chamber)

Enough talking







here are pics (sry ffor quality, moto E2 isn't really ffamous for it's camera)


----------



## Luckael

anyone know how to clean the noctua u12s? is there any chemicals i can use?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luckael*
> 
> anyone know how to clean the noctua u12s? is there any chemicals i can use?


Yeah, soap and water.








A sink of hot water with some dishwasher detergent works quite well. Soak and swoosh around in the water, soak some more and again swoosh it around. After 20-30 minutes rinse with clean water, shake as dry as possible, put in a nice warm place to finish drying or use a hair dryer. If you have hard water that will leave spots, do a final rinse with distilled water.


----------



## Luckael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, soap and water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A sink of hot water with some dishwasher detergent works quite well. Soak and swoosh around in the water, soak some more and again swoosh it around. After 20-30 minutes rinse with clean water, shake as dry as possible, put in a nice warm place to finish drying or use a hair dryer. If you have hard water that will leave spots, do a final rinse with distilled water.


Thanks man!


----------



## Transmaniacon

Well I am finally joining the club. Decided to update my whole computer cooling solution and went Noctua all around. I have two NF-A14 PWM coming for my front intake, a U12S to cool my CPU, and a S12A PWM for my rear exhaust. I will post some pictures tomorrow after everything is installed!


----------



## Transmaniacon

Got my heatsink and fans all installed, Noctua stuff really is top quality. My idle temps dropped 10 degrees on my CPU, and 5 degrees on the GPU


----------



## MrMD

Just want to gove some props to Noctuas CS.Few weeks ago i cracked the corner of one off my NF-12's when reattaching it to to a rad after cleaning my dust filters.Although that isnt covered under warrenty,they still offered to send me a free replacement as i already owned 5 of them.

It arrived today,great stuff

Thanks Noctua


----------



## PCModderMike

These fans are fitting in perfectly with my color scheme. Very happy with them.


----------



## xXx1990

Hey guys... Im finally ready to join the Noctua Club LMAO. I just built the PC in my sig and dont really know much about all the different models that noctua offers so im just wondering if u guys can help me decide which fans will help me the most with temps in each slot... SO that would be 2 in the front, 1 in back and 2 on top for Rad cooler. Thanks in advance.


----------



## cadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXx1990*
> 
> Hey guys... Im finally ready to join the Noctua Club LMAO. I just built the PC in my sig and dont really know much about all the different models that noctua offers so im just wondering if u guys can help me decide which fans will help me the most with temps in each slot... SO that would be 2 in the front, 1 in back and 2 on top for Rad cooler. Thanks in advance.


For the 750D? Get 3x NF-A14 PWM two for the intake and 1 for exhaust. For the rad get 2x NF-F12s. I would also suggest a PWM hub.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXx1990*
> 
> Hey guys... Im finally ready to join the Noctua Club LMAO. I just built the PC in my sig and dont really know much about all the different models that noctua offers so im just wondering if u guys can help me decide which fans will help me the most with temps in each slot... SO that would be 2 in the front, 1 in back and 2 on top for Rad cooler. Thanks in advance.


Not sure what all you have in your case, but if you can remove the HDD cages and use 2x 140mm front intakes and 2x 120mm bottom intakes that would supply the airflow needed for radiator and rear exhaust. If you use PWM fans you can control them with CPU and GPU PWM fan headers so cases fans cycle same as radiator and GPU fans. Details on how to do it are in "Ways to Better Cooling" thread linked in my sig. 1st post is index. Click on topic of interest to see that post.


----------



## xXx1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadger*
> 
> For the 750D? Get 3x NF-A14 PWM two for the intake and 1 for exhaust. For the rad get 2x NF-F12s. I would also suggest a PWM hub.


The Radiator supports 140's not 120's


----------



## cadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXx1990*
> 
> The Radiator supports 140's not 120's


In that case 5x NF-A14 PWM. Also read the link like @doyll recommended. It's a great read on air flow and you will learn a lot.


----------



## xXx1990

OK cool... So my last question is do I get the industrial ones or the regular ones?


----------



## cadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXx1990*
> 
> OK cool... So my last question is do I get the industrial ones or the regular ones?


The Industrial ones are very expensive for what they are. They have no quiet like qualities at all. If you're not buying Noctua fans for their sound to performance ratio then there are much better fans out there for the price.


----------



## rrazer

That's 2x NF-A14 and 1x NF-F12. The front intakes are 2x NF-F12 (I know... it's not their best position.. but that's temporary. The CPU heatsink is about to get changed with an NH-U12S... I will attach an image as soon as it's ready.

p.s. please add to Official Noctua Club.


----------



## xXx1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadger*
> 
> The Industrial ones are very expensive for what they are. They have no quiet like qualities at all. If you're not buying Noctua fans for their sound to performance ratio then there are much better fans out there for the price.


So how are the AF14's gonna perform on a H110 radiator since the fans aren't really meant for that application?


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadger*
> 
> The Industrial ones are very expensive for what they are. They have no quiet like qualities at all. If you're not buying Noctua fans for their sound to performance ratio then there are much better fans out there for the price.


My fans are on a Aquaero fan controller and while surfing the web, idle low enough for a very gentle hum. I'm still tweeting them lower for near quiet idle.

When they ramp up, based on my GPU temp, they do get a bit more audible. Doesn't bother me though. Keeps my case full of cool air and cards stay under 60°c


----------



## cadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXx1990*
> 
> So how are the AF14's gonna perform on a H110 radiator since the fans aren't really meant for that application?


They are for rads though. They come on some Noctua heatsinks even.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadger*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by xXx1990 View Post
> So how are the AF14's gonna perform on a H110 radiator since the fans aren't really meant for that application?
> 
> 
> 
> They are for rads though. They come on some Noctua heatsinks even.
Click to expand...

First, they are not AF14's, but NF-A14 PWM 1500rpm
Second, they are not for "rads" but do have 2.08mmH2O rating @ 1500rpm .. which is enough for radiators that are not too restrictive. Keep in mind at lower rpm the pressure rating is also lower.
Third, There are many reasons to use fans with 2.0-3.0mmH2O there are none not that make sense for not using them. Using fans that have higher pressure ratings making just means the are able to perform on radiators on coolers and as case fans. As a bonus at low rpm they more even more air than lower pressure fans .. means they can spin slower while still moving same amount of air and do it quieter too. This is because their P-Q curve is able to overcome the resistance of grill, filter, etc. easier than low pressure fans

Having higher static pressure rating is like having a car with more horsepower. It can get just as good a mileage as lower HP car as long as we don't use the extra power, and we notice a difference even when not using it, but when we want / need it it we have it.

We never use fans in applications used to get their published specification. CFM rating is in open space with no resistance and mmH2O is the level reached when fan quits flowing air. Now I do occasionally use a fan in open space trying to stay cool in hot weather, but I have yet to find a use for a fan setting tight against someithing so there is no airflow at all.







.

Here is a P-Q graph and chart showing how much air fans actually flow compared to their specs. In normal use we have 0.2-1.5mmH2O resistance


Here is NF-A14 2000rpm IPPC fan data

http://www.coolingtechnique.com/recensioni/air-cooling/ventole/1490-recensione-noctua-redux-e-industrialppc.html?showall=&start=9

Here is another review showing performance on radiator

http://thermalbench.com/2015/08/19/noctua-nf-a14-ippc-2000-pwm-140mm-fan/3/

With modern cases have fancy grills blocking 25-50% of their airflow area plus filters restricting 20-40% of airflow fans with good pressure ratings are definitely needed .. especially for low rpm performance.


----------



## danielhowk

Ive read the noctua guide. but recently noctua have been releasing alot of new fans. which fans should i go for for PC Case air cooling. 120mm is my choice.
but i dont know which type is the best for air cooling on case . phanteks enthoo primo.
noctua S, F , P , A
and then FLX , ULN , PWN
just so confusing. id thought you guys will know which are the best to get.
thanks in advance.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielhowk*
> 
> Ive read the noctua guide. but recently noctua have been releasing alot of new fans. which fans should i go for for PC Case air cooling. 120mm is my choice.
> but i dont know which type is the best for air cooling on case . phanteks enthoo primo.
> noctua S, F , P , A
> and then FLX , ULN , PWN
> just so confusing. id thought you guys will know which are the best to get.
> thanks in advance.


Not sure exactly what6 you are trying to do. Your request is like someone saying "I want a new car. It should be a Ford product and have an engine. What car will be best for me?"
You have a Enthoo Primo case, and want to use 120mm fans. That isn't very logical when case venting is for up to 140mm fans .. 2x 140mm fans will flow as much air as 3x 120mm fans of similar design and do it at lower rpm.

Enthoo Primo has the PWM controlled variable voltage 3-pin fan hub so you can use 3-pin fans, but PWM fans are generally better; will idle at lower speeds, use less energy and generate less heat.


----------



## danielhowk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not sure exactly what6 you are trying to do. Your request is like someone saying "I want a new car. It should be a Ford product and have an engine. What car will be best for me?"
> You have a Enthoo Primo case, and want to use 120mm fans. That isn't very logical when case venting is for up to 140mm fans .. 2x 140mm fans will flow as much air as 3x 120mm fans of similar design and do it at lower rpm.
> 
> Enthoo Primo has the PWM controlled variable voltage 3-pin fan hub so you can use 3-pin fans, but PWM fans are generally better; will idle at lower speeds, use less energy and generate less heat.


2 140mm fans are better than 3 x 120mm fans of the same type ? .
didnt know that was expecting 360mm in total will do better than 280mm.
PWM because of the controlled variable pin ?
if the controlled variable pin is unavailable. which type would be better ? still pwn or uln or flx ? or others ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielhowk*
> 
> 2 140mm fans are better than 3 x 120mm fans of the same type ? .
> didnt know that was expecting 360mm in total will do better than 280mm.
> PWM because of the controlled variable pin ?
> if the controlled variable pin is unavailable. which type would be better ? still pwn or uln or flx ? or others ?


Not necessarily better, but yes, they can be a little better. fan airflow area is 2 dimensional. 120x360mm versus 140x280mm .. or more accurately 2x 140mm circles to 3x 120mm circles is 307sq cm versus 339sq cm minus the motor hub area of about 12.6sq cm each is 282sq cm for 2x 140mm fans compared to 301sq cm for 3x 120mm fans.

PWM is a "controlled variable pin."







PWM is "Pulse Width Modulation". The 4 pins are Ground, 12V, RPM & PWM signal. PWM fans control their speed using a PWM PCB in the fan that uses the PWM signal to pulse the 12v power to the fan motor Pulsing the power generates no heat.

Variable voltage fan 3-pins are Ground, Variable voltage & RPM. The motherboard send more or less voltage to the fan to control it's speed. Changing the voltage generates heat.

Also, because PWM fans use a constant 12v power lead, they can be powered directly from the PSU (no power load on mobo) and generally 7-11PWM fans can be controlled by a single mobo PWM header.

With rare exception all motherboards have PWM on CPU fan header. Some have more, but don't think a 4-pin fan header is PWM, because unless it's the CPU fan header is probably is not PWM.

There are many pros and cons involved in PWM and variable speed fans, but as a general rule PWM is better.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *danielhowk*
> 
> 2 140mm fans are better than 3 x 120mm fans of the same type ? .
> didnt know that was expecting 360mm in total will do better than 280mm.
> PWM because of the controlled variable pin ?
> if the controlled variable pin is unavailable. which type would be better ? still pwn or uln or flx ? or others ?
> 
> 
> 
> Not necessarily better, but yes, they can be a little better. fan airflow area is 2 dimensional. 120x360mm versus 140x280mm .. or more accurately 2x 140mm circles to 3x 120mm circles is 307sq cm versus 339sq cm minus the motor hub area of about 12.6sq cm each is 282sq cm for 2x 140mm fans compared to 301sq cm for 3x 120mm fans.
> 
> PWM is a "controlled variable pin."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PWM is "Pulse Width Modulation". The 4 pins are Ground, 12V, RPM & PWM signal. PWM fans control their speed using a PWM PCB in the fan that uses the PWM signal to pulse the 12v power to the fan motor Pulsing the power generates no heat.
> 
> Variable voltage fan 3-pins are Ground, Variable voltage & RPM. The motherboard send more or less voltage to the fan to control it's speed. Changing the voltage generates heat.
> 
> Also, because PWM fans use a constant 12v power lead, they can be powered directly from the PSU (no power load on mobo) and generally 7-11PWM fans can be controlled by a single mobo PWM header.
> 
> With rare exception all motherboards have PWM on CPU fan header. Some have more, but don't think a 4-pin fan header is PWM, because unless it's the CPU fan header is probably is not PWM.
> 
> There are many pros and cons involved in PWM and variable speed fans, but as a general rule PWM is better.
Click to expand...

QFT.

In general, the blades of 140mm fans sweep at a lower RPM than those of 120RPM to get the same airflow. So they are quieter for the same airflow. Think of it like a hose: narrow jet, high velocity vs wider jet, lower velocity gets you the same outflow. Sometimes you want that higher velocity, but you don't need it in a case. For case fans, whenever you can use a larger fan, do it.

For example, in a square 120x120mm window, a 120mm fan sweeps around 3/4 of the area. A 140mm fan with 120mm screw-holes*, the fan sweeps more than 100% of the area -- but the overage is slight enough to ignore.

(* Generally these are round fans; the holes are actually 105mm apart, but that is standard for 120mm fans.)


----------



## Depauville Kid

NH-D14 Heatsink
NF-P14 FLX (x4)
NF-P12 (x1)


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> QFT.
> 
> In general, the blades of 140mm fans sweep at a lower RPM than those of 120RPM to get the same airflow. So they are quieter for the same airflow. Think of it like a hose: narrow jet, high velocity vs wider jet, lower velocity gets you the same outflow. Sometimes you want that higher velocity, but you don't need it in a case. For case fans, whenever you can use a larger fan, do it.
> 
> For example, in a square 120x120mm window, a 120mm fan sweeps around 3/4 of the area. A 140mm fan with 120mm screw-holes*, the fan sweeps more than 100% of the area -- but the overage is slight enough to ignore.
> 
> (* Generally these are round fans; the holes are actually 105mm apart, but that is standard for 120mm fans.)


Hello there @ehume, and hello @doyll, as well. I find this discussion interesting, so I will ask (both of) you a simple question:

- My system is fully shown in my signature. On the front side of my Corsair Air 540 chassis, I currently use three (3) Noctua 120mm fans, the exact models of which are shown in my sig_rig. I also own three Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans.

Do you really think that my two NF-A14 would perform better than the the three 120mm Noctua fans I already have?

Because right now I always have these three 120mm fans running at full speed all the time, constantly, and I do not ever hear them, and I think that the area they are covering, on this specific chassis, is much wider than the one the two 140mm fans would cover.

What is your opinion?

Thank you.

PS: The truth is that I cannot place any type of 140mm fan on the front side of this specific chassis due to the turbine noise produced. I'm asking just out of curiosity though. IF I'd wish to improve the airflow of this specific setup all I could do is place one or two 140mm fans at the bottom, on the top of my SSDs, and at the same time raise the chassis a few centimeters above the ground. When I have tried (those 2 bottom intake fans) without raising the entire chassis, I have observed absolutely NO difference in temperatures at all.


----------



## Depauville Kid

Three 120mm fans would cover more area than two 140mm fans. I'm not sure if I am wording this properly. But if the fans were equal, they're not, but let's pretend they are:

120mm x 3 = 360mm of fan.
140mm x 2 = 280mm of fan.

120mm also tend to give a more focused tunnel of air. This is hypothetical of course. One would need to test said fans measuring db and component temps to be definitive.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Depauville Kid*
> 
> Three 120mm fans would cover more area than two 140mm fans. I'm not sure if I am wording this properly. But if the fans were equal, they're not, but let's pretend they are:
> 
> 120mm x 3 = 360mm of fan.
> 140mm x 2 = 280mm of fan.
> 
> 120mm also tend to give a more focused tunnel of air. This is hypothetical of course. One would need to test said fans measuring db and component temps to be definitive.


Yeap, 3 x 120 mm cover more area than 2 x 140 mm. This is why I use them, and I have tested the temperature both on my previous AMD system and on my Intel system, both with 2 x 140 and 3 x 120, front intakes, and 3 x 120 perform better. In addition, on this specific case one cannot put 140 mm fans on the front panel, because he/she will hear an airplane turbine noise from 1300 RPM and above (I think).

What was sad for me to discover was that I "cannot" place even the 120 mm Industrial Noctua fans at the front panel of this chassis. Because, oh my God how loud - very loud they sound, even from 1000 - 1100 RPM and above! Too unfortunate but also expected since the smaller the fan the louder it becomes on high RPM. Or I think so...


----------



## Depauville Kid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Yeap, 3 x 120 mm cover more area than 2 x 140 mm. This is why I use them, and I have tested the temperature both on my previous AMD system and on my Intel system, both with 2 x 140 and 3 x 120, front intakes, and 3 x 120 perform better. In addition, on this specific case one cannot put 140 mm fans on the front panel, because he/she will hear an airplane turbine noise from 1300 RPM and above (I think).
> 
> What was sad for me to discover was that I "cannot" place even the 120 mm Industrial Noctua fans at the front panel of this chassis. Because, oh my God how loud - very loud they sound, even from 1000 - 1100 RPM and above! Too unfortunate but also expected since the smaller the fan the louder it becomes on high RPM. Or I think so...


I had wicked turbine noise on my case, not because of the fan speed, but due to the intake vents. I cut them all out and voila, no more noise. The vent covers hide my hack job.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Depauville Kid*
> 
> I had wicked turbine noise on my case, not because of the fan speed, but due to the intake vents. I cut them all out and voila, no more noise. The vent covers hide my hack job.


Yes, I understand you. Here is the reason I am having these turbine noises with 140 mm fans from around 1200 RPM and above.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







The thing is, I really like my Air 540 and I do not want to modify / destroy it.

For better cooling, even though I do not really need it, all I can do is place one or two 140 mm fans at the bottom, and at the same time raise the entire chassis a few cm above the ground. To be honest, I have not tested this yet but soon I will. The only other alternative is to find three 120 mm fans which will perform better, considerably better, than my current Noctuas. So, they should blow more air at max 1200 RPM with the same or less noise level. I don't know if they even exist.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Depauville Kid*
> 
> Three 120mm fans would cover more area than two 140mm fans. I'm not sure if I am wording this properly. But if the fans were equal, they're not, but let's pretend they are:
> 
> 120mm x 3 = 360mm of fan.
> 140mm x 2 = 280mm of fan.
> 
> 120mm also tend to give a more focused tunnel of air. This is hypothetical of course. One would need to test said fans measuring db and component temps to be definitive.


How the hell do you get "360mm of fan" or "280mm of fan" ? Darn! I can't even ;buttkick: in one dimension.







Fan airflow area is 2 dimensional. same as







making the airflow area 282sq cm for 2x 140mm fans compared to 301sq cm for 3x 120mm fans .. but the blade area that creates the airflow is closer to the same for both.

But I guess you do have a point.

_______________________________________________________ line is longer than
________________________________________ line.









But you can't move any air through either of those lines.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Yeap, 3 x 120 mm cover more area than 2 x 140 mm. This is why I use them, and I have tested the temperature both on my previous AMD system and on my Intel system, both with 2 x 140 and 3 x 120, front intakes, and 3 x 120 perform better. In addition, on this specific case one cannot put 140 mm fans on the front panel, because he/she will hear an airplane turbine noise from 1300 RPM and above (I think).
> What was sad for me to discover was that I "cannot" place even the 120 mm Industrial Noctua fans at the front panel of this chassis. Because, oh my God how loud - very loud they sound, even from 1000 - 1100 RPM and above! Too unfortunate but also expected since the smaller the fan the louder it becomes on high RPM. Or I think so...


Both of you are blind in one eye and can't see out of the other.









Seriously, 120mm versus 140mm has to do with application. Which will work best in a given application is based on case, radiator, cooler design .. and not the difference is airlfow or static pressure specification.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello there @ehume, and hello @doyll, as well. I find this discussion interesting, so I will ask (both of) you a simple question:
> 
> - My system is fully shown in my signature. On the front side of my Corsair Air 540 chassis, I currently use three (3) Noctua 120mm fans, the exact models of which are shown in my sig_rig. I also own three Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans.
> 
> Do you really think that my two NF-A14 would perform better than the the three 120mm Noctua fans I already have?
> 
> Because right now I always have these three 120mm fans running at full speed all the time, constantly, and I do not ever hear them, and I think that the area they are covering, on this specific chassis, is much wider than the one the two 140mm fans would cover.
> 
> What is your opinion?
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> PS: The truth is that I cannot place any type of 140mm fan on the front side of this specific chassis due to the turbine noise produced. I'm asking just out of curiosity though. IF I'd wish to improve the airflow of this specific setup all I could do is place one or two 140mm fans at the bottom, on the top of my SSDs, and at the same time raise the chassis a few centimeters above the ground. When I have tried (those 2 bottom intake fans) without raising the entire chassis, I have observed absolutely NO difference in temperatures at all.


More airflow area at bottom may make a difference .. and it may not. Theory and reality are often at odds with each other. Especially when it comes to something like airflow with an almost infinite number of variables to consider.








Performance is based on many things; vent design, grill, filter, amount of air needed, as well as what is behind the fan. There are some fans that can fill many different applications, but no one fan is best at all of them. Sorry that doesn't give a very definitive answer, but there is none available.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> ...
> 
> There are some fans that can fill many different applications, but no one fan is best at all of them. Sorry that doesn't give a very definitive answer, but there is none available.


Uhm...yeah.. I was referring to intake case fans..

One question:

Do you happen to know a 120 mm fan with better specifications than the following?

*Noctua NF-S12A (PWM)*:
Rotational Speed (+/- 10%) : 1200 RPM
Airflow : 107,5 m³/h
Static Pressure : 1,19 mm H2O
Acoustical Noise : 17,8 dB(A)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Both of you are blind in one eye and can't see out of the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, 120mm versus 140mm has to do with application. Which will work best in a given application is based on case, radiator, cooler design .. and not the difference is airlfow or static pressure specification.


Yeap, and... I do not understand your reaction...?...?
All I did was to say how and why I prefer to use (the specific) 120 mm fans as front intakes in my system.


----------



## Depauville Kid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> How the hell do you get "360mm of fan" or "280mm of fan" ? Darn! I can't even ;buttkick: in one dimension.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fan airflow area is 2 dimensional. same as
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> making the airflow area 282sq cm for 2x 140mm fans compared to 301sq cm for 3x 120mm fans .. but the blade area that creates the airflow is closer to the same for both.
> 
> But I guess you do have a point.
> 
> _______________________________________________________ line is longer than
> ________________________________________ line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you can't move any air through either of those lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of you are blind in one eye and can't see out of the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, 120mm versus 140mm has to do with application. Which will work best in a given application is based on case, radiator, cooler design .. and not the difference is airlfow or static pressure specification.


Three 120mm fans together would create an area of 432 sq.cm. 12cm wide by 36cm long = 432 sq.cm.

Two 140mm fans together would create and area of 392 sq.cm. 14cm wide by 28cm long = 392 sq.cm.

That is if you're measuring in square centimeters, which in your post you were. If you're only accounting for length of the fans together, then it would be 36cm and 28cm respectively, which is what I did in my first post.

I also understand that there are other factors to consider when choosing fans for a particular application. Different fans have different strengths and weaknesses, but thanks for pointing that out anyway.

I guess you missed when I wrote this:
"*But if the fans were equal, they're not, but let's pretend they are*:" "*This is hypothetical of course*"

We weren't discussing varying applications, we were discussing a single application *pretending* the 120mm and 140mm fans had identical characteristics. In which case three 120mm fans would move more air than two 140mm fans. Since they don't actually have equal characteristics, one would need to test the fans in question in the given application... which is why I said this...

"*One would need to test said fans measuring db and component temps to be definitive.*"

LostParticle, I understand his reaction. He was being rude with a heavy hand of "know it all" tossed in. Doyll, I've asked for advice from you on a particular fan in the past, but rest assured I won't again in the future. If I have a question, I will find a member who doesn't go out of their way to belittle other members. There was nothing wrong with what either of us posted. If you disagreed, you could have found a better way to add to the conversation.


----------



## danielhowk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Not necessarily better, but yes, they can be a little better. fan airflow area is 2 dimensional. 120x360mm versus 140x280mm .. or more accurately 2x 140mm circles to 3x 120mm circles is 307sq cm versus 339sq cm minus the motor hub area of about 12.6sq cm each is 282sq cm for 2x 140mm fans compared to 301sq cm for 3x 120mm fans.
> 
> PWM is a "controlled variable pin."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PWM is "Pulse Width Modulation". The 4 pins are Ground, 12V, RPM & PWM signal. PWM fans control their speed using a PWM PCB in the fan that uses the PWM signal to pulse the 12v power to the fan motor Pulsing the power generates no heat.
> 
> Variable voltage fan 3-pins are Ground, Variable voltage & RPM. The motherboard send more or less voltage to the fan to control it's speed. Changing the voltage generates heat.
> 
> Also, because PWM fans use a constant 12v power lead, they can be powered directly from the PSU (no power load on mobo) and generally 7-11PWM fans can be controlled by a single mobo PWM header.
> 
> With rare exception all motherboards have PWM on CPU fan header. Some have more, but don't think a 4-pin fan header is PWM, because unless it's the CPU fan header is probably is not PWM.
> 
> There are many pros and cons involved in PWM and variable speed fans, but as a general rule PWM is better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> QFT.
> 
> In general, the blades of 140mm fans sweep at a lower RPM than those of 120RPM to get the same airflow. So they are quieter for the same airflow. Think of it like a hose: narrow jet, high velocity vs wider jet, lower velocity gets you the same outflow. Sometimes you want that higher velocity, but you don't need it in a case. For case fans, whenever you can use a larger fan, do it.
> 
> For example, in a square 120x120mm window, a 120mm fan sweeps around 3/4 of the area. A 140mm fan with 120mm screw-holes*, the fan sweeps more than 100% of the area -- but the overage is slight enough to ignore.
> 
> (* Generally these are round fans; the holes are actually 105mm apart, but that is standard for 120mm fans.)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello there @ehume, and hello @doyll, as well. I find this discussion interesting, so I will ask (both of) you a simple question:
> 
> - My system is fully shown in my signature. On the front side of my Corsair Air 540 chassis, I currently use three (3) Noctua 120mm fans, the exact models of which are shown in my sig_rig. I also own three Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans.
> 
> Do you really think that my two NF-A14 would perform better than the the three 120mm Noctua fans I already have?
> 
> Because right now I always have these three 120mm fans running at full speed all the time, constantly, and I do not ever hear them, and I think that the area they are covering, on this specific chassis, is much wider than the one the two 140mm fans would cover.
> 
> What is your opinion?
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> PS: The truth is that I cannot place any type of 140mm fan on the front side of this specific chassis due to the turbine noise produced. I'm asking just out of curiosity though. IF I'd wish to improve the airflow of this specific setup all I could do is place one or two 140mm fans at the bottom, on the top of my SSDs, and at the same time raise the chassis a few centimeters above the ground. When I have tried (those 2 bottom intake fans) without raising the entire chassis, I have observed absolutely NO difference in temperatures at all.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Yes, I understand you. Here is the reason I am having these turbine noises with 140 mm fans from around 1200 RPM and above.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, I really like my Air 540 and I do not want to modify / destroy it.
> 
> For better cooling, even though I do not really need it, all I can do is place one or two 140 mm fans at the bottom, and at the same time raise the entire chassis a few cm above the ground. To be honest, I have not tested this yet but soon I will. The only other alternative is to find three 120 mm fans which will perform better, considerably better, than my current Noctuas. So, they should blow more air at max 1200 RPM with the same or less noise level. I don't know if they even exist.


Will 2 x 140mm fans have more turbine noise over 3 x 120mm fans.
if i have the option between the 2 x 140 mm and 3 x 120mm fans i know for previous post saying that 140mm will be quieter in most cases.
what about turbine noises. will 140mm most likely happen ? my pc case is Phanteks Enthoo primo. not sure if it helps mentioning my case.
and for air flow on pc case. PWN is better than ULN and FLX in most cases too. but should i go with Noctua - S , Noctua - F , Noctua - A , Noctua - P which are the best option for air flow for pc Case.
A few years back Scythe Gentle typhoon was one of the top fans back then. but now Noctua is better than those fans right ? and if im not wrong noctua should be THE best at the moment in terms of build quality comparing to Gentle typhoons. (i am using gentle typhoon planning to replace it )
thanks in advance. sorry for being utterly confuse. You guys are way more knowledgable than i am. Thanks in advance


----------



## ehume

Gentle Typhoons are 120mm fans. Noctua NF-A14 and NF-A15 are 140mm fans (the NF-A15 fans are round, and have 120mm fan screw-holes). They are used for different purposes.

I will give you a hint, though. Back when I used a case that only allowed 120mm fans in front, I started with lowspeed Noctua fans but went back to 800-rpm Gentle Typhoons. At 120mm, they are the best for front intake where the fans are a half meter from my head.

Now I have a case that allows 140mm front intake fans. I used two NF-A14 ULN fans. Very quiet.

I did a review on the Phanteks Enthoo Prime case a while back (it's on Overclockers -- not OCN). Nice case. But if you want to step up from the Phanteks fans inside, go with the NF-A14 -- you can pick from ULN, FLX and PWM. Doyll has a thing on converting Thermalright TY14x fans to be compatible with square frames. I don't know about the conversions, but they are great fans, though.


----------



## danielhowk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Gentle Typhoons are 120mm fans. Noctua NF-A14 and NF-A15 are 140mm fans (the NF-A15 fans are round, and have 120mm fan screw-holes). They are used for different purposes.
> 
> I will give you a hint, though. Back when I used a case that only allowed 120mm fans in front, I started with lowspeed Noctua fans but went back to 800-rpm Gentle Typhoons. At 120mm, they are the best for front intake where the fans are a half meter from my head.
> 
> Now I have a case that allows 140mm front intake fans. I used two NF-A14 ULN fans. Very quiet.
> 
> I did a review on the Phanteks Enthoo Prime case a while back (it's on Overclockers -- not OCN). Nice case. But if you want to step up from the Phanteks fans inside, go with the NF-A14 -- you can pick from ULN, FLX and PWM. Doyll has a thing on converting Thermalright TY14x fans to be compatible with square frames. I don't know about the conversions, but they are great fans, though.


thanks that was very detail. rep +
i get it. in terms of performance gentle typhonn was good as a 120mm fans but of course it comes with louder dba comparing to noctua 120mm fans where it does well in being queit and performance.
but for the 140mm it beats the typhonn 120mm fans.
why did you choose ULN over FLX and PWM by the way ? for air cooling in your case.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Depauville Kid*
> 
> ...
> 
> LostParticle, I understand his reaction. He was being rude with a heavy hand of "know it all" tossed in. Doyll, I've asked for advice from you on a particular fan in the past, but rest assured I won't again in the future. If I have a question, I will find a member who doesn't go out of their way to belittle other members. There was nothing wrong with what either of us posted. If you disagreed, you could have found a better way to add to the conversation.


Thank you, +REP, for expressing beautifully what I can not, a non native English speaker being.

The Gentle Typhoons are really good fans, as many say, but I don't know how they are called and if they are available, in Europe.


----------



## fast_fate

New weapons for the thermal rig









After having to throw 300+ hours of work away after "other" 140mm fans failed, here's hoping these NF-A14 IndustrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM's are up for the job.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Uhm...yeah.. I was referring to intake case fans..
> 
> One question:
> 
> Do you happen to know a 120 mm fan with better specifications than the following?
> 
> *Noctua NF-S12A (PWM)*:
> Rotational Speed (+/- 10%) : 1200 RPM
> Airflow : 107,5 m³/h
> Static Pressure : 1,19 mm H2O
> Acoustical Noise : 17,8 dB(A)
> Yeap, and... I do not understand your reaction...?...?
> All I did was to say how and why I prefer to use (the specific) 120 mm fans as front intakes in my system.


The specifications mean very little. To know how a fan performs we need to see it's P-Q curve.
The are airflow is in open area. Only time I use a fan like that is circulating to cool of in hot weather.








Static pressure is the level that fan stops moving air. I have no use of a fan that isn't moving air.








Noise level is taken when fan is running in open space. As I said, only used that way in hot weather.









Now here is the P-Q curve showing what it really does and P-Q curve of NF-S12A below it to scale. notice the difference in airflow at mm H2O of second group of fans compared to first. Keep in mind this is only their airflow, so don't forget we need to consider their noise level as well. That data is in the Coolingtechnique reviews. They have e good data base compiled
http://www.coolingtechnique.com/recensioni/air-cooling/ventole.html


Reply to 120 vs 140mm fan area was because you agreed with Depauville Kid's single dimensional area.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Well, I don't know how it sounded but if you will read again my *post #2039* you will realize that all I wish to say is that as I currently have my three Noctua 120 mm fans mounted on the front panel of my chassis they seem to cover more area than two 140 mm fans, if I would mount them. They appear like they do so. That is all I have tried to express, perhaps in a wrong manner since English is not my native tongue.
> 
> When it comes to all the other information you have provided, the so called P-Q diagrams and the rest, I will be honest with you: I do not fully understand them. I need to study them, and read further, other things as well, to fully understand what they mean. IF, and I say IF, I would be in the need to purchase new fans right now - and I am not in such a need - do you know what I would do? I would purchase two or three different brands (models) of, let's say, 120 mm fans - after reading some reviews and ask around - and I would test them in my environment and system. The best I would keep, the rest I would return or sell. Most probably, return them.
> 
> Right now, in order to improve a bit or get the best from the fans I already own, all shown in my sig_rig, two thing I can try, only:
> a) test / use my system without the front grill of my Air 540 - but with the filter always on, of course.
> b) place one or two of my 140 mm fans at the bottom and raise the chassis by placing it on some wooden cubes I happen to have. It is compulsory for me to have my SSDs at the bottom, so the fans will stand on top of them. So, I'm not sure IF I will achieve anything significant, at least my GPU will benefit, however. With the cost of the additional dust because I don't have a filter for the bottom area.
> 
> Finally, you usually suggest the removal of those "grills", or whatever they are called, of the PCI devices... I haven't bothered with that because when I put my hand at the rear side of my case the airflow there is barely noticeable.
> 
> Thank you.


Yeah, 3x 120 fans stack up taller than 2x 140 fans.







This whole ting about fan area was a joking rant about how the airflow area was being calculated totally wrong. I was not intentionally offending anyone. Just joking pounting out that 240 vs 36omm is not the area and later the 120x360 and 140x280mm are are far4 from what the area a fan is.









Are your temps a problem now?

Case airflow is not so much how many fans are in use, but about the case flowing cool air to components while flowing the components heated exhaust out of case without it mixing (and heating up) the cool air. This means case must always for as much or more air than components. Usually 1.2-1.5x more case airflow is needed to keep cool air going to components, but it also requires have fans positioned so air flows where we not it to. It is very hard to keep air flowing where we want it when the component fans are changing speed depending on load/heat generated while case fans are running at fixed speed. The changing component fan speed means contant speed cases fans need to run much faster than needed most of the time .. because they need to be moving more air than components do at full speed. This makes the case noisy all the time. But if case fans change speed like the component fans, they will be idling like the component fans are most of the time and system will be quiet.


----------



## Klocek001

I love my new d15s







and after the installation I think all air cooling manufacturers should just sit down and take notes cause this is how you make the installation perfect down to the last detail. I had TR Macho and while it was a great cooler it's nowhere near Noctua. It used to slide all over the IHS until you screwed it, had to hold it at the same time to land on the CPU at a straight angle and not skew, the fan clip was mediocre compared to d15s and I actually had to hold the bolts behind the mobo while screwing in the standoffs since there's no backplate, not to mention one with pre-installed bolts like d15s has. Plus I'm running 15 degrees cooler on d15s now


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Depauville Kid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Yeap, 3 x 120 mm cover more area than 2 x 140 mm. This is why I use them, and I have tested the temperature both on my previous AMD system and on my Intel system, both with 2 x 140 and 3 x 120, front intakes, and 3 x 120 perform better. In addition, on this specific case one cannot put 140 mm fans on the front panel, because he/she will hear an airplane turbine noise from 1300 RPM and above (I think).
> 
> What was sad for me to discover was that I "cannot" place even the 120 mm Industrial Noctua fans at the front panel of this chassis. Because, oh my God how loud - very loud they sound, even from 1000 - 1100 RPM and above! Too unfortunate but also expected since the smaller the fan the louder it becomes on high RPM. Or I think so...
> 
> 
> 
> I had wicked turbine noise on my case, not because of the fan speed, but due to the intake vents. I cut them all out and voila, no more noise. The vent covers hide my hack job.
Click to expand...

You're halfway there. Now delete the rear grill. You probably can vent the case with the Bernoulli principle. Better: remove the rear grill, put the second P14 on the back of the D14 as a pull fan -- just ask Noctua for another set of fan clips (send them a copy of your original receipt). Every thing will be even quieter.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, 3x 120 fans stack up taller than 2x 140 fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This whole ting about fan area was a joking rant about how the airflow area was being calculated totally wrong. I was not intentionally offending anyone. Just joking pounting out that 240 vs 36omm is not the area and later the 120x360 and 140x280mm are are far4 from what the area a fan is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are your temps a problem now?
> 
> Case airflow is not so much how many fans are in use, but about the case flowing cool air to components while flowing the components heated exhaust out of case without it mixing (and heating up) the cool air. This means case must always for as much or more air than components. Usually 1.2-1.5x more case airflow is needed to keep cool air going to components, but it also requires have fans positioned so air flows where we not it to. It is very hard to keep air flowing where we want it when the component fans are changing speed depending on load/heat generated while case fans are running at fixed speed. The changing component fan speed means contant speed cases fans need to run much faster than needed most of the time .. because they need to be moving more air than components do at full speed. This makes the case noisy all the time. But if case fans change speed like the component fans, they will be idling like the component fans are most of the time and system will be quiet.


Thank you very much, I appreciate your input


----------



## xXx1990

Well my A14 PWM's finally came in and I installed them. I tell you what, this machine is dead silent at idle lmao. The idle temps did increase by 1-2 degrees but its dead quiet so im fine with it. 100% load on CPU it doesnt even break 47 degrees. I do have a question though, I am actually considering an external fan controller and am wondering what are some good ones to get?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXx1990*
> 
> Well my A14 PWM's finally came in and I installed them. I tell you what, this machine is dead silent at idle lmao. The idle temps did increase by 1-2 degrees but its dead quiet so im fine with it. 100% load on CPU it doesnt even break 47 degrees. I do have a question though, I am actually considering an external fan controller and am wondering what are some good ones to get?


With load temps like 47c why do you want a external controller.


----------



## xXx1990

Yes load temps on the CPU are 47.. But the other temps are not lol, The fan controller would be for the case fans. Now im wondering can I use 2 Y 4pin splitter cables together to connect all 3 case fans to one PWM header on the mobo so I can control them all together or no? Because if I can do that then im fine with not having an external fan controller since my board technically only has one PWM header and the other one is the CPU PWM header which is controlled simultaneously with the CPU fan.


----------



## lagittaja

Motherboard fan connectors usually are rated up to 12V/1A, some are even 12V/2A. I quickly skimmed through your motherboard manual but didn't see any mention of the amperage rating.
The NF-A14's you have are rated to 0.13A. Multiply that by the number of fans you have and voila.. 0.13*3=0,39A. Basically yes, you can go ahead and run all three of those off of one motherboard PWM header.
If it's 1A header you could basically run seven of those NF-A14 PWM's off of one 1A header.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Motherboard fan connectors usually are rated up to 12V/1A, some are even 12V/2A. I quickly skimmed through your motherboard manual but didn't see any mention of the amperage rating.
> The NF-A14's you have are rated to 0.13A. Multiply that by the number of fans you have and voila.. 0.13*3=0,39A. Basically yes, you can go ahead and run all three of those off of one motherboard PWM header.
> If it's 1A header you could basically run seven of those NF-A14 PWM's off of one 1A header.


And when in doubt, you can contact tech support for your board. I had to do that to discover the Amp limit (1A) on my Gigabyte P55A board (My contemporaneous As.s had a limit of 2a).


----------



## ehume

Depending on your mb manufacturer, you might have controllers for your case fans. The SYS fan headers on my Z87 and Z97 boards have fine controls on their fan headers, for PWM, for instance. With PWM, you probably don't need a fan controller.


----------



## fast_fate

Happy Snap


----------



## dzb87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXx1990*
> 
> Yes load temps on the CPU are 47.. But the other temps are not lol, The fan controller would be for the case fans. Now im wondering can I use 2 Y 4pin splitter cables together to connect all 3 case fans to one PWM header on the mobo so I can control them all together or no? Because if I can do that then im fine with not having an external fan controller since my board technically only has one PWM header and the other one is the CPU PWM header which is controlled simultaneously with the CPU fan.


You can use Gelid PWM splitter that powers fans directly from PSU.
There are only two pins attached to mainboard fan connector - PWM signal and RPM signal.

I also have one working PWM connector (CPU_FAN) on my Gigabyte Z87 mobo and I use 3xNF-A14 PWM connected via this splitter.
On the other hand, CPU cooler, NH-D14 (non-pwm fans) is connected to one of the SYS_FAN connectors (voltage controlled).

Everything works great with Speedfan and two custom fan curves.
Case fans are controlled by GPU temperature.
CPU fans - by CPU temperature.


----------



## doyll

I would advise caution when running multiple fans on a single header.

Motors (in fans and others) draw 2-3 times as many amps at startup than when running at full speed .. and many fans only spec the running load. This means a fan with 0.13a spec could be pulling 0.39a at startup .. meaning 3x 0.13a spec fans could be pulling 1.17a at startup.

Running seven of those NF-A14 PWM's off of one 1A header could be disastrous if they are pulling 1.8a (2x rating) and even more so if it is 2.7a (3x rating) at startup. I have not tried it so can't say it will not work as I would rather error on the side of caution rather than replacing my motherboard. Much cheaper to buy a few PWM splitters / hubs with PSU power

The above is why I almost always use PWM fans and PWM splitters or hubs with PSU power Guide to setting up PWM control from motherboard (CPU) PWM and GPU PWM fan headers is in "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig.


----------



## xXx1990

I just need the pwm plug to control 3 not 7 fans LOL... Since the other 2 fans are being controlled by the corsair pump.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXx1990*
> 
> Yes load temps on the CPU are 47.. But the other temps are not lol, The fan controller would be for the case fans. Now im wondering can I use 2 Y 4pin splitter cables together to connect all 3 case fans to one PWM header on the mobo so I can control them all together or no? Because if I can do that then im fine with not having an external fan controller since my board technically only has one PWM header and the other one is the CPU PWM header which is controlled simultaneously with the CPU fan.


You will need to check and see how much that one PWM header can power, 3 fans might be pushing it. You could always just throw the back fan on a regular fan power header and maybe use one of the Noctua low noise adapters that come with the fan to lower the RPM.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> You will need to check and see how much that one PWM header can power, 3 fans might be pushing it. You could always just throw the back fan on a regular fan power header and maybe use one of the Noctua low noise adapters that come with the fan to lower the RPM.


Gelid have larger gauge leads from Molex to distribution point.








I've ran 4x TY-143 fans on same splitter with no problems .. and they are 0.51a each for a total of 2.04a


----------



## xXx1990

I have yet to figure out a great solution for plugging up these 3 PWM A14's on my mobo lol


----------



## xXx1990

If one of my fans is connected to a 3 pin header would I still be able to controll it from the bios fan settings?


----------



## Steele84

Yesss!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXx1990*
> 
> If one of my fans is connected to a 3 pin header would I still be able to controll it from the bios fan settings?


PWM fans can usually be controlled with variable voltage, but not as well as with PWM.


----------



## Klocek001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Originally Posted by xXx1990 View Post
> If one of my fans is connected to a 3 pin header would I still be able to controll it from the bios fan settings?


you'll' have no PWM/degree option, but I remember my old z77 ext4 had 9 levels for the fan connected to 3-pin. It seems to me you can control it in BIOS, but it'll always run at fixed speed and won't be variable at all.


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> PWM fans can usually be controlled with variable voltage, but not as well as with PWM.


Why is PWM better than DC voltage control?


----------



## dzb87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> Why is PWM better than DC voltage control?


You have wider range to control RPMs.
My NF-A14s work smooth between 10% and 100% PWM that gives 150-1500 RPM respectively.
Show me voltage controlled fan that will work in such range.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klocek001*
> 
> you'll' have no PWM/degree option, but I remember my old z77 ext4 had 9 levels for the fan connected to 3-pin. It seems to me you can control it in BIOS, but it'll always run at fixed speed and won't be variable at all.


True, no PWM% to degree option,
but
depending on motherboard most likely have voltage/ fan speed to degree option.

Not graduated into as many different speed, but good enough.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> Why is PWM better than DC voltage control?


What dzb87 said.









PWM = simply controlled pulses of 12v power = no heat
Variable voltage = reducing 12v to lower voltage = heat
PWM = full power (12v) every pulse = more torque from motor at low speed = keeps spinning at lower speeds
Variable voltage = reducing voltage = less power / torque = motor stalls / quits running.
PWM give almost infinite speed adjustment
Variable voltage is usually only 3-7 different speeds.
PWM is more energy efficient because is either on or off
For variable voltage to lower voltage uses transformers / resistors to lower the voltage .. changing the voltage to heat


----------



## xp4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have wider range to control RPMs.
> My NF-A14s work smooth between 10% and 100% PWM that gives 150-1500 RPM respectively.
> Show me voltage controlled fan that will work in such range.


Also you loose much less energy with a PWM, because you are not burning it in heat on a resistor.

Btw first post here, hi everybody!


----------



## twerk

Alrighty thanks guys! Makes me regret buying my NF-A14 FLXs now...


----------



## danielhowk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> Alrighty thanks guys! Makes me regret buying my NF-A14 FLXs now...


for case air cooling . is NF A-15 or NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM looking for the best 140mm fans for case air cooling


----------



## LocutusH

"some" noctua stuff here also


----------



## fast_fate

Rad used was an EK CE140mm


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danielhowk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> Alrighty thanks guys! Makes me regret buying my NF-A14 FLXs now...
> 
> 
> 
> for case air cooling . is NF A-15 or NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM looking for the best 140mm fans for case air cooling
Click to expand...

A15 is kind of round-oid. NF-A14 is square. If you can afford it, it is better than the P14 redux square frame.


----------



## mukumi

Hello,

I decided to use NF-A14 on my Nepton 140XL. I however have one issue: the pull fan is on a "honeycomb" like grill and so is causing a high buzz noise.

Do you know if this also happens with other noctua models ? Would it disappear if I configure it as intake instead of exhaust ?

Thanks in advance for your help !


----------



## Origondoo

Hi all,

I recently purchased 6 x Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC 2000 PWM fans and today I did some test with them running them at low speed using PWM from Aquaero5 XT. In RPM mode i was able to run the fan at min. 800 rpm, while in PWM mode at <600rpm.

Now I discovered some issue that the fans generate a high frequency noise in the motor running on PWM signal. But this noise gets lower if I run the fan in rpm mode only. Same speed for both settings.
I tested 5 of 6 fans and have seen this behaviour.

The noise is very disgusting so I would like to know if it's normal or is there something wrong in my setup?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## MicroCat

Noctua is noted for some of the quietest, lowest artifact PWM designs. I've experienced some motor whine noises at high rpms, never heard any artifacts sub <1000rpm. Have 4 A15s spinning at less than 350rpm as I type this and I can't hear any unwelcome motor noise.

Possibly you received a bad batch or there is some combo of things in your system config that trigger this effect. Or it could just be that the aliens have chosen your system to relay their global domination communications via PWM signals.









Have you tested the fans individually connected to the motherboard CPU fan header? Contact Noctua support - they are very supportive and are certainly more helpful than me.


----------



## Origondoo

Here the video of the noise


----------



## MicroCat

Tough to hear with all the wind noise. Maybe turn the fan off.









Head some odd motor harmonics, but need a good mic with a good wind sock pointed more off-axis to isolate the motor noise. Is the noise better or worse when in free air? Was the fan in video running off the Aquaero? Was this at the lowest PWM setting?


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Tough to hear with all the wind noise. Maybe turn the fan off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Head some odd motor harmonics, but need a good mic with a good wind sock pointed more off-axis to isolate the motor noise. Is the noise better or worse when in free air? Was the fan in video running off the Aquaero? Was this at the lowest PWM setting?


Youtube turns the noise quality to very low...
You set you head phone / speaker to max. then you can clearly hear it.

Yes the fan is running with Aquaero5 XT @ 35% = 618rpm. It's not the lowest PWM setting yet.


----------



## MicroCat

YouTube and good quality audio are where oxymorons go to replicate.

And what happens to the motor noise when the Aquaero is bypassed and the fan is connected directly to the MB CPU header?


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> YouTube and good quality audio are where oxymorons go to replicate.
> 
> And what happens to the motor noise when the Aquaero is bypassed and the fan is connected directly to the MB CPU header?


That question I can't answer to you yet since there is no mobo I can connect it to. Not yet.
But if I ran the fan in RMP mode the noise is gone.

Here an additonal video of fan running 300rpm = 22% PWM.


----------



## MicroCat

Ah...maybe, just maybe, the noise will go away when connected to the MB. Could be a ground loop in the current config that is generating extra noise in the PWM signal. It's a weak theory, but that's what makes the internet great!


----------



## ehume

No no. Those fans are clicking! Noctua works very hard to silence that. Send those videos to Noctua tech support.


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys. I'm looking at getting the NCase M1.

I'm thinking of getting three of the 120mm Redux and one 92mm Redux. What are your guys experience with the Redux fans?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm looking at getting the NCase M1.
> 
> I'm thinking of getting three of the 120mm Redux and one 92mm Redux. What are your guys experience with the Redux fans?


Having had them in my hands, I can tell you that they are exactly they same as the older brown and tan fans.


----------



## thekingbeyond

I bought some P14s redux 1200s recently that clicked/ticked like the fans in the video, Noctua support suggested they may have got damp in amazons warehouse and sent me four new ones that didn't tick.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekingbeyond*
> 
> I bought some P14s redux 1200s recently that clicked/ticked like the fans in the video, Noctua support suggested they may have got damp in amazons warehouse and sent me four new ones that didn't tick.


Ouch! To be fair, it's easier for Amazon's delivery drones to pull stock when the warehouse does not have a roof.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekingbeyond*
> 
> I bought some P14s redux 1200s recently that clicked/ticked like the fans in the video, Noctua support suggested they may have got damp in amazons warehouse and sent me four new ones that didn't tick.


Were those fans also PWM?
Because this noiseis very present when I do run them PWM mode. In rpm mode this noise is almost not present.

I will for sure contact Noctua.


----------



## thekingbeyond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Were those fans also PWM?
> Because this noiseis very present when I do run them PWM mode. In rpm mode this noise is almost not present.
> 
> I will for sure contact Noctua.


My first batch from amazon where pwm, I sent them back to amazon and re-ordered that voltage controlled ones and they where still ticking. That's when I contacted Noctua and the fans where replaced direct from them.
Noctua have brilliant support, but instead of sending p14s redux they accidentally sent s12 redux in error, they told me to keep the s12s and sent p14s replacements. So I have 4 free s12 redux as well as the p14 redux and none of the fans that came direct fron Noctua tick:thumb:


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekingbeyond*
> 
> My first batch from amazon where pwm, I sent them back to amazon and re-ordered that voltage controlled ones and they where still ticking. That's when I contacted Noctua and the fans where replaced direct from them.
> Noctua have brilliant support, but instead of sending p14s redux they accidentally sent s12 redux in error, they told me to keep the s12s and sent p14s replacements. So I have 4 free s12 redux as well as the p14 redux and none of the fans that came direct fron Noctua tick:thumb:


Thanks for the feedback.

I wrote to Noctua and also included the links to the videos of the fan I did yesterday. So let see for their feedback.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thekingbeyond*
> 
> I bought some P14s redux 1200s recently that clicked/ticked like the fans in the video, Noctua support suggested they may have got damp in amazons warehouse and sent me four new ones that didn't tick.
> 
> 
> 
> Were those fans also PWM?
> Because this noiseis very present when I do run them PWM mode. In rpm mode this noise is almost not present.
> 
> I will for sure contact Noctua.
Click to expand...

Noctua would not release fans until the PWM was silent. You got defective fans. I see you wrote off to Noctua. Good. Their customer service is usually top notch.


----------



## LocutusH

I also had ticking with a new A9 PWM fan... but it seems it was because i overtightened the screws, and bent the frame a little. I only had to make the screws a bit looser, and its totally silent again.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LocutusH*
> 
> I also had ticking with a new A9 PWM fan... but it seems it was because i overtightened the screws, and bent the frame a little. I only had to make the screws a bit looser, and its totally silent again.


Well in my case the fan in the video is freely standing on the floor. Also just holding it in the hand does not silence it. Therefore I complettely can remove the vibration as source of the noise.

Let wait for the feedback from noctua


----------



## Origondoo

So just got the answer from Noctua.

They say that based on my videos the behaviour of the fan is normal due to design of 3-phase motor and low pwm resolution (e.g. 35%) -> that's also the reason why I do not see this behavior running the fans on 3-pin header while controlling them via voltage.

Now I see only two option for me to run those fans in rpm mode or give them back (I still have 1.5 weeks to do so) and go for some other fans.

Was hoping to run those fans 600 -1000rpm only to have a silent build.

But one thing I can surelly answer for now: running those fans in PWM mode with case standing ~0.6m away will be a pain for my ears.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> So just got the answer from Noctua.
> 
> They say that based on my videos the behaviour of the fan is normal due to design of 3-phase motor and low pwm resolution (e.g. 35%) -> that's also the reason why I do not see this behavior running the fans on 3-pin header while controlling them via voltage.
> 
> Now I see only two option for me to run those fans in rpm mode or give them back (I still have 1.5 weeks to do so) and go for some other fans.
> 
> Was hoping to run those fans 600 -1000rpm only to have a silent build.
> 
> But one thing I can surelly answer for now: running those fans in PWM mode with case standing ~0.6m away will be a pain for my ears.


Wow. This is disturbing. Send you correspondence to the Noctua customer relations people. Noctua fans have heretofore been silent under all conditions. No clicking ever. It's time to get the PR people involved in this.

Noctua is actually a joint venture between an Austrian company and a Chinese company. It sounds like the two are coming a little apart here. You should not be able to make a Noctua fan click -- ever.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Wow. This is disturbing. Send you correspondence to the Noctua customer relations people. Noctua fans have heretofore been silent under all conditions. No clicking ever. It's time to get the PR people involved in this.
> 
> Noctua is actually a joint venture between an Austrian company and a Chinese company. It sounds like the two are coming a little apart here. You should not be able to make a Noctua fan click -- ever.


Thanks for your help. Let see what their feedback will be.

At the moment I requested a retoure sticker for box with the fans to be send back. But I still can hold for a couple of days.

Btw. I own a NF-A8 PWM fans which performs well, w/o any klicking noise. Luv this fan










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Origondoo

I think for the industrialPPC series fans Noctua may not really considered the noise optimization for PWM controll. The main purpose here is really the durability and low vibration + low consumption.

In industrialPPC and normal + redux fan series they use the SDC (Smooth Commutation Drive) technology. But in the industrialPPC it's another PWM IC, a possbile root cause for the noise.

Maybe some of the members here who is owning NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM can give their feedback on the noise in low rpm while PWM controlled.


----------



## LostParticle

Hi,

I own the 2 Industrial Noctua fans shown in my sig_rig and I use them on my Corsair H110, in a Push set up. The AIO is mounted on the top side of my chassis and the fans blow the air outside of the case. Right now, and most of the time, I run them at 650 RPM. I have never heard any kind of clicking, they are not audible at all. The rest of my system's fans, which run at full speed all the time, cover the Industrial's noise when running at this low RPM. They become audible at 1100-1200 RPM and above. But even then, and actually even up to 1890 RPM, the max they can go on my setup, their noise is not unpleasant or disturbing at all. It is just the normal "hishing", like a professional hairdryer or something like that. Remember that noise perception is pretty subjective and also dependable from the person's environment (room, furniture, curtains, type of the floor, sitting position, etc).

Finally, I run them through my motherboard's CPU fan header so I do not know if they are voltage or PWM controlled. I use my ASRock Z97 OC Formula and, of course, it is a four pin fan header.

Hope I've helped.


----------



## ehume

I have reviewed some industrial PPC fans. No clicking.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> I think for the industrialPPC series fans Noctua may not really considered the noise optimization for PWM controll. The main purpose here is really the durability and low vibration + low consumption.
> 
> In industrialPPC and normal + redux fan series they use the SDC (Smooth Commutation Drive) technology. But in the industrialPPC it's another PWM IC, a possbile root cause for the noise.
> 
> Maybe some of the members here who is owning NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM can give their feedback on the noise in low rpm while PWM controlled.


Yeah, it's a different PWM IC in the iPPC fans because of the fact that the iPPC fans have three phase motors. NE-FD2 is just a version of the NE-FD1 for three phase motors.
And the fact that the iPPC fans have three phase motors should make it even quieter as it inherently makes the switching higher frequency and the torque never drops as the poles and slots never fully align.
http://noctua.at/main.php?show=three_phase_motor
They shouldn't click but I don't own one to say from my own experience..

There's this though




Especially 2:35-3:00


----------



## Whippet

Long time stalker here with an S340 NZXT case with NH-C14 cooling an i5-760 at 3.8GHz and 2 P14s redux for intakes. Currently have an original NZXT fan as a rear exhaust but will be swapping that to the S12A FLX soon to increase flow. Top exhaust fan is a Cryorig XT140 as it's the only one that would fit (13mm) but its run on a low noise adapter as its so noisy. All fans controlled with a NZXT Grid+ which is great but have the Grid+ V2 on order so will be able to individually control the fans.



I do have a question - I'd like to control the C14 fan speeds as the now discontinued P14 FLX fans aren't PWM and my Asus P55 board wont control by voltage so they run at full speed. I could either control the cooler fans in my Grid+ V2 when it lands but not sure if there are any issues with not having the fan attached to the CPU header on my mobo? Or I could swap out the fans for the A15 PWM.

Thoughts?

ta


----------



## equinoxe3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whippet*
> 
> I do have a question - I'd like to control the C14 fan speeds as the now discontinued P14 FLX fans aren't PWM and my Asus P55 board wont control by voltage so they run at full speed. I could either control the cooler fans in my Grid+ V2 when it lands but not sure if there are any issues with not having the fan attached to the CPU header on my mobo? Or I could swap out the fans for the A15 PWM.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> ta


I bought an A15 PWM to replace the P14 that came with my heatsink for the same reason (board only does PWM on the CPU fan).
However, I think you *should* be fine with your current P14 fans on your controller, as long as you disable speed monitoring on the CPU header in the BIOS.


----------



## Whippet

Thanks will give the Grid+ V2 a try the mobo is a bit old and quaint so will see, if not I'll look at swapping to the A15 fan.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I own the 2 Industrial Noctua fans shown in my sig_rig and I use them on my Corsair H110, in a Push set up. The AIO is mounted on the top side of my chassis and the fans blow the air outside of the case. Right now, and most of the time, I run them at 650 RPM. I have never heard any kind of clicking, they are not audible at all. The rest of my system's fans, which run at full speed all the time, cover the Industrial's noise when running at this low RPM. They become audible at 1100-1200 RPM and above. But even then, and actually even up to 1890 RPM, the max they can go on my setup, their noise is not unpleasant or disturbing at all. It is just the normal "hishing", like a professional hairdryer or something like that. Remember that noise perception is pretty subjective and also dependable from the person's environment (room, furniture, curtains, type of the floor, sitting position, etc).
> 
> Finally, I run them through my motherboard's CPU fan header so I do not know if they are voltage or PWM controlled. I use my ASRock Z97 OC Formula and, of course, it is a four pin fan header.
> 
> Hope I've helped.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> I have reviewed some industrial PPC fans. No clicking.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I own the 2 Industrial Noctua fans shown in my sig_rig and I use them on my Corsair H110, in a Push set up. The AIO is mounted on the top side of my chassis and the fans blow the air outside of the case. Right now, and most of the time, I run them at 650 RPM. I have never heard any kind of clicking, they are not audible at all. The rest of my system's fans, which run at full speed all the time, cover the Industrial's noise when running at this low RPM. They become audible at 1100-1200 RPM and above. But even then, and actually even up to 1890 RPM, the max they can go on my setup, their noise is not unpleasant or disturbing at all. It is just the normal "hishing", like a professional hairdryer or something like that. Remember that noise perception is pretty subjective and also dependable from the person's environment (room, furniture, curtains, type of the floor, sitting position, etc).
> 
> Finally, I run them through my motherboard's CPU fan header so I do not know if they are voltage or PWM controlled. I use my ASRock Z97 OC Formula and, of course, it is a four pin fan header.
> 
> Hope I've helped.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Yeah, it's a different PWM IC in the iPPC fans because of the fact that the iPPC fans have three phase motors. NE-FD2 is just a version of the NE-FD1 for three phase motors.
> And the fact that the iPPC fans have three phase motors should make it even quieter as it inherently makes the switching higher frequency and the torque never drops as the poles and slots never fully align.
> http://noctua.at/main.php?show=three_phase_motor
> They shouldn't click but I don't own one to say from my own experience..
> 
> There's this though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Especially 2:35-3:00


Thanks for all of your inputs guys.

The Noctua representative from their support service confirmed once more that this kind of clicking is normal for industrials. In my case it would make more sense to go for normal Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm fans, because they have the 'old' motor design and optimized for silent operation. Unfortunatelly the color scheme does not meet my taste / color scheme of the build (until I have to rethink it completely), but that's a point discussed more then well for Noctua fans.

I send the fans back to the distributor and will look for some alternatives.

The next chance for me will be the next gen of the 140mm fans in 2016


----------



## doyll

Prototype design looks a lot like several others out there .. one in particular has a great reputation for performance and silence.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Prototype design looks a lot like several others out there .. one in particular has a great reputation for performance and silence.


For the looks yes. But those next gen fans will be very optimized for the static pressure because the distance between the blades and frame will be very small preventing the air to escape on the sides, which should make them a good choice for rads and low speed operation. So far the theory









Next year we will know more


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> For the looks yes. But those next gen fans will be very optimized for the static pressure because the distance between the blades and frame will be very small preventing the air to escape on the sides, which should make them a good choice for rads and low speed operation. So far the theory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next year we will know more


As this is Noctua thread and Noctua make good fans I will not elaborate much, but there is already a very well known and respected (#: D1225C) line of fans and new line released a few months ago that have very good static pressure.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> As this is Noctua thread and Noctua make good fans I will not elaborate much, but there is already a very well known and respected (#: D1225C) line of fans and new line released a few months ago that have very good static pressure.


There is one weak point. I need 140mm fans


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> There is one weak point. I need 140mm fans


Check out Thermalbench. Good reviews.


----------



## Whippet

Anyone know if rotating the NH-C14 sideways would give more room at the top of the case? I'm thinking of dumping the 13mm fan I have there as it's run so low due to noise. Just wondering if I could fit a normal one in there by making more room.



Hard to tell by looking at the cooler


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whippet*
> 
> Anyone know if rotating the NH-C14 sideways would give more room at the top of the case? I'm thinking of dumping the 13mm fan I have there as it's run so low due to noise. Just wondering if I could fit a normal one in there by making more room.
> 
> 
> 
> Hard to tell by looking at the cooler


The base is offset so yes, mounting it differently will give different clearances.


----------



## LocutusH

Isnt that the C14S you have on the drawing?


----------



## Whippet

Thanks, couldn't find a diagram anywhere for it, just need to work out which sideways orientation would be best now.


----------



## lagittaja

Yes but the C14 dimensions are 140x163mm as well.
http://noctua.at/inc/imageviewer_360.php?item=111
Rotating it will allow more clearance for the top fan.


----------



## Whippet

thanks guys, just need an extra 12mm to fit a normal fan and hopefully still leave room for the exhaust fan and clear the mobo heatsinks, think I'll put the pipes towards the rear.


----------



## epic1337

this made me wonder, if used on a non-restrictive grille intake, would S12A be better than P12?
comparatively in both raw airflow and noise profile, and probably fan orientation.
or can i take noctua's raw numbers at face value?

on a side note, is there any reason why noctua doesn't make slim fans?


----------



## Whippet

Yeah I was wondering why Noctua don't do a slim fan. Maybe it's because it's an impossible ask and they wouldn't be able to reach the standards they have set themselves. Clearly Cryorig have had to put a spin on their figures for the XT140 - no way is it as quite as they claim. If I was going to choose a slim fan again I'd go for the Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 140 based on reviews and stats but it's very hard to source in the UK.


----------



## epic1337

they could simply cater on the ULNA buyers when it comes to slim fans, 800RPM~1000PRM won't be noisy, yet i'd assume they're still capable of pushing 30~40CFM.

plus, they'd be able to fit a 12015 fan where 8025 are the only option, e.g. NH-L12.
i'd assume a slim 120mm fan is still better than a low RPM 80mm fan.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Went all out with my noctua setup. I think I have a total of 18 Noctua fans in the case right now. Rads are in push-pull with NF-P14's.


----------



## epic1337

could use some more noctuas.


----------



## Whippet

Sorted the NH-C14, rotating provided loads more space, don't know why that isn't the recommended position, all the official shots show it heat pipes to PCI. Thanks for the pointers. Swapped my P14s on it to PWM fans and put one of the spare P14s on the top exhaust, temps much better and far quieter than the Cryorig : ) Means I've now got a spare P14 FLX if anyone wants it, as well as the XT-140 if you don't mind the noise!

Thing is the reported fan speed is very odd, got it controlled at bios level on the P7P55-d but the reported fan speeds in hardware monitor and the like are strange, vary from showing insane 5 digit speeds to nothing and anything in between. It does seem to be ramping up with the CPU temp on benchmarking though which is good. So don't know if it's something to be concerned with.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whippet*
> 
> Sorted the NH-C14, rotating provided loads more space, don't know why that isn't the recommended position, all the official shots show it heat pipes to PCI. Thanks for the pointers. Swapped my P14s on it to PWM fans and put one of the spare P14s on the top exhaust, temps much better and far quieter than the Cryorig : ) Means I've now got a spare P14 FLX if anyone wants it, as well as the XT-140 if you don't mind the noise!
> 
> Thing is the reported fan speed is very odd, got it controlled at bios level on the P7P55-d but the reported fan speeds in hardware monitor and the like are strange, vary from showing insane 5 digit speeds to nothing and anything in between. It does seem to be ramping up with the CPU temp on benchmarking though which is good. So don't know if it's something to be concerned with.


My suggestion: always use the latest version of HWiNFO64, even the beta ones. Then post a screenshot, and contact the developer in this site.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1235672/official-hwinfo-32-64-thread/0_80


----------



## Whippet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> My suggestion: always use the latest version of HWiNFO64, even the beta ones. Then post a screenshot, and contact the developer in this site.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1235672/official-hwinfo-32-64-thread/0_80


Thanks, got the correct readings now.


----------



## bunja

Hi all,

Anyone have any info from Noctua about the skylake damage thingy?

Specifically NH-D15?

http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2015/12/intel-skylake-cpus-bent-and-broken-by-some-third-party-coolers/


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Anyone have any info from Noctua about the skylake damage thingy?
> 
> Specifically NH-D15?
> 
> http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2015/12/intel-skylake-cpus-bent-and-broken-by-some-third-party-coolers/


Don't worry about. It is almost totally news hype.
Let us edit this news to what it is really saying:
Quote:


> Noctua, EK Water Blocks, Scythe, Arctic, Thermaltake, and Thermalright, commenting to Games Hardware about the issue, suggested that damage from overly high mounting pressure is most likely to occur during shipping or relocation of a system


Damage is mot likely to occur during shipping or relocation of a system.
In other words, do not ship your computer with cooler mounted. That's not rocket science it's common sense. And if you are moving your computer to an different room or house, be gentle and careful not to bang it around .. also common sense


----------



## ehume

Actually, this has been observed. It may be hype, but it was observed. Noctua heatsinks have only a little convexity. They also use springs to press the contact surface down on the IHS. This limits contact pressure to 50 lbf.

I had a discussion about this with Noctua. The email had a slight bitter tang about how some other manufacturers will really crank up the pressure to increase their cooling. Based on my direct observation, I'd say the NH-D15 and NH-D15S are among the safest heatsinks you can mount, as well as being the easiest.


----------



## miklkit

Please clarify one point. I have been under the impression for some time that the D14 has a convex base while the D15 has a flat base. The D15 also has a smoother surface. How far off base am I?


----------



## doyll

Are there any documented cases other than what Scythe posted with their initial report of this "problem"?

I've been googling it a couple times a day and find no other reports of mount problems. Only other cooler companies saying their mounts are working fine.


----------



## wanako

So I used one of my NF-B9 redux 1600's for water cooling



lol


----------



## vicyo

Don't buy it they said, It will not fit they said...



Guess it does fit on the Z97 Gryphon


----------



## Whippet

I've now got a 6600K Skylake and I have no issues with my NH -C14


----------



## ikem

got my dual c14s installed. love having noctua back.


----------



## Darkbreeze

So, after doing a search through this thread, which of course doesn't mean the information isn't there, just that I didn't find it, I got no results related to the disassembly of the NF-A15 which I have a feeling cannot be disassembled like earlier 140mm models. Can anybody verify whether these allow the fans to be separated from the frame like other earlier models. Thanks.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> So, after doing a search through this thread, which of course doesn't mean the information isn't there, just that I didn't find it, I got no results related to the disassembly of the NF-A15 which I have a feeling cannot be disassembled like earlier 140mm models. Can anybody verify whether these allow the fans to be separated from the frame like other earlier models. Thanks.


Sorry if this sounds strange, but what the heck are you talking about?
Please define what you mean by "disassembly of NF-A15".


----------



## vicyo

I think he is asking if it's possible to remove the fan blades from the frame and then reassemble it back together without ruining the fan.

If it's that, then I don't think its possible since noctua seals the bearing on their fans


----------



## Darkbreeze

Yes, that is what I was asking and I thought
Quote:


> Can anybody verify whether these allow the fans to be separated from the frame like other earlier models.


made that pretty clear but I guess not. Thanks Vicyo, I had a suspicion that since these were a sealed bearing design that it wasn't going to be possible, although I work with sealed bearing designs in automotive work that have nothing to do with the driven shaft not being able to be removed from the unit so I'm not sure why Noctua would do this other than because they specifically don't want people coloring their fans, which is dumb.

Since they refuse to release fans in colors that enthusiasts actually want, you'd think that they might at least keep that option on the table but apparently not. I guess maybe color preferences run to a different gamut in Austria than they do elsewhere. Further, it seems to make little sense that they DO actually have some decent looking fans in the Redux and industrial lines, but refuse to extend those color schemes to their standard line of fans, which have somewhat different specs than the Redux models when it comes to static pressure, overall airflow and sound levels.

For a company that wants to "innovate" with product releases like the colored Chromax accessories, this ought to be a no brainer, but I guess when you're at the top of the food chain you can get away with steadfastly refusing to accomodate the masses. Oh well, guess I'll just have to invest a much greater amount of time in taping off all five fans in stages by hand so I can apply the vinyl dye via spray can. Maybe I'll just do them solid black and call it a day. Thanks again for the reply. Sorry for the rant.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> Yes, that is what I was asking and I thought
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Can anybody verify whether these allow the fans to be separated from the frame like other earlier models.
> 
> 
> 
> made that pretty clear but I guess not. Thanks Vicyo, I had a suspicion that since these were a sealed bearing design that it wasn't going to be possible, although I work with sealed bearing designs in automotive work that have nothing to do with the driven shaft not being able to be removed from the unit so I'm not sure why Noctua would do this other than because they specifically don't want people coloring their fans, which is dumb.
> 
> Since they refuse to release fans in colors that enthusiasts actually want, you'd think that they might at least keep that option on the table but apparently not. I guess maybe color preferences run to a different gamut in Austria than they do elsewhere. Further, it seems to make little sense that they DO actually have some decent looking fans in the Redux and industrial lines, but refuse to extend those color schemes to their standard line of fans, which have somewhat different specs than the Redux models when it comes to static pressure, overall airflow and sound levels.
> 
> For a company that wants to "innovate" with product releases like the colored Chromax accessories, this ought to be a no brainer, but I guess when you're at the top of the food chain you can get away with steadfastly refusing to accomodate the masses. Oh well, guess I'll just have to invest a much greater amount of time in taping off all five fans in stages by hand so I can apply the vinyl dye via spray can. Maybe I'll just do them solid black and call it a day. Thanks again for the reply. Sorry for the rant.
Click to expand...

For one thing, I've pulled an SSO bearing apart and put it back together. It "works" but I'm sure it is no longer sealed.

An automotive bearing costs a lot more than a fan bearing -- at least by a factor of ten. Noctua's sealed bearings are an industry standard, so don't expect them to have a type that you can pull apart and reassemble.

If you want all-black fans, try the industrialPPC or the 24V-industrialPPC lines. I reviewed the former for Vortez.net, and I reviewed the latter for Overclockers.com. Between the two lines, they cover the entire spectrum of max speeds from 1050 to 3000rpm. Since they are PWM, they have a wide range of PWM speeds.

If you want colored corners, the Chromax accessories cover that well.

I have a number of 140mm fans in my hands. Of the square framed fans, theirs are the best.


----------



## CrazyElf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> For one thing, I've pulled an SSO bearing apart and put it back together. It "works" but I'm sure it is no longer sealed.
> 
> An automotive bearing costs a lot more than a fan bearing -- at least by a factor of ten. Noctua's sealed bearings are an industry standard, so don't expect them to have a type that you can pull apart and reassemble.


So long as nothing leaks in or out of the bearing, you should be ok. If dust gets in the bearing though, the fan is done for.

I suppose it may shorten lifespan. Painting Gentle Typhoons has been known to. They are perfectly balanced right out of the factory, so painting them does affect their lifespan (they will die in a few years, when in normal use they should last 100k hours at 40C, L10).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> If you want all-black fans, try the industrialPPC or the 24V-industrialPPC lines. I reviewed the former for Vortez.net, and I reviewed the latter for Overclockers.com. Between the two lines, they cover the entire spectrum of max speeds from 1050 to 3000rpm. Since they are PWM, they have a wide range of PWM speeds.
> 
> If you want colored corners, the Chromax accessories cover that well.
> 
> I have a number of 140mm fans in my hands. Of the square framed fans, theirs are the best.


There are the San Ace 140mm fans, but those are expensive. You can sometimes get the LB ones used on Aliexpress or other websites for cheap though. The Long Life ones even if used probably have a lot of lifespan in them. They are used in HVAC systems and sometimes for cooling data centres. They are very well built fans though. I think Delta has a 140mm version too, the FFB series, which is also quite good.

My bet too is that a PWM Gentle Typhoon with a 120 to 140mm adapter would be able to hold its own against the 140mm Noctuas. I think that they use the same bearing as their 120mm counterparts, so the static pressure on the 140mm might be a bit lower. It's been a while though, so don't quote me on that one.


----------



## Darkbreeze

I can't justify the purchase of 80 plus dollars worth of new fans, otherwise I'd have just gone with the Aerocool DS-140's which have very good specs and real world performance, and match the color scheme of the build I'm currently working on perfectly with the red/black model. If it was a client build that didn't already have fans, then it would be a non-issue, but since I already have five perfectly good A15's, I can't really budget that. I simply wanted to customize these a bit by modifying the color scheme, which I've done on at least a hundred previous occasions with other fan models, and am rather disappointed to not be able to easily do this with these, but I guess I'll simply have to invest the time in hand masking and additional steps, to get the required color scheme. Guess I was hoping one of you had a magic trick for getting these apart but I'm not interested in forcing apart a press fit or damaging anything due to stubborness.

I'm well aware of balance issues reportedly encountered using paint, but I personally have never seen any adverse effects using the vinyl dye, which is much lighter than layers of paint, and have had great results using it previously. Further, Bill Owen at MNPCtech has done hundreds of paint jobs on fans and has indicated that he hasn't seen a single case of imbalance or premature wear due to paint as long as it's done properly and not hurriedly slapped on. Taking that a step further, since the vinyl dye is much lighter and doesn't tend to have the same buildup, I've had good success with it and have no concerns about doing so going forward. My only concern is damage to the fan itself and since you guys have made it clear that these are really not able to be disassembled for this purpose, I'm good with that advice and won't continue my attempts to do so, so thanks for the replies in that regard, it's appreciated. I was really hoping there was some trick, but I'm not going to force the issue.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> I can't justify the purchase of 80 plus dollars worth of new fans, otherwise I'd have just gone with the Aerocool DS-140's which have very good specs and real world performance, and match the color scheme of the build I'm currently working on perfectly with the red/black model. If it was a client build that didn't already have fans, then it would be a non-issue, but since I already have five perfectly good A15's, I can't really budget that. I simply wanted to customize these a bit by modifying the color scheme, which I've done on at least a hundred previous occasions with other fan models, and am rather disappointed to not be able to easily do this with these, but I guess I'll simply have to invest the time in hand masking and additional steps, to get the required color scheme. Guess I was hoping one of you had a magic trick for getting these apart but I'm not interested in forcing apart a press fit or damaging anything due to stubborness.
> 
> I'm well aware of balance issues reportedly encountered using paint, but I personally have never seen any adverse effects using the vinyl dye, which is much lighter than layers of paint, and have had great results using it previously. Further, Bill Owen at MNPCtech has done hundreds of paint jobs on fans and has indicated that he hasn't seen a single case of imbalance or premature wear due to paint as long as it's done properly and not hurriedly slapped on. Taking that a step further, since the vinyl dye is much lighter and doesn't tend to have the same buildup, I've had good success with it and have no concerns about doing so going forward. My only concern is damage to the fan itself and since you guys have made it clear that these are really not able to be disassembled for this purpose, I'm good with that advice and won't continue my attempts to do so, so thanks for the replies in that regard, it's appreciated. I was really hoping there was some trick, but I'm not going to force the issue.


Well, you already have the fans. For others out there, Noctua sells IP67 fans, which you ought to be able to dip into a paint bath. Because they are IP67, they are waterproof down to 1 meter. That ought to cover an alcohol bath down to 150mm, eh? Only one trouble: the IP67 fans are black. So much for a dye ;-)


----------



## Darkbreeze

Yeah, that kind of negates the necessity, no? Heh. I didn't much care they they looked like an ugly Christmas sweater in there on my current setup, since I'm using a CM Storm Enforcer that I modded to accept two front A15's, a rear A15 and just moved the 200mm Megaflow to the top as an exhaust, because that case wasn't pretty to start with. This other build I'm doing is to be a bit "prettier" with a Define S case I've modified to look similar to the red/black H440, with a Z170X-Gaming 5, 6700k and a couple sticks of TriX DDR4-3000 so I just wanted to avoid having that elephant in the room aspect of these fans.

I've already put one coat of black dye on them so far, and they are looking much better. I may post pics of them here when they are done. Here's the configuration I had before:





But I replaced the Redux fans with A15's a while back.

Here's the case this will be going into now.



As you can see I've done some work to the front and top panels and have much left to do, but it's getting there. Bill Owen at MNPCtech was very helpful with some suggestions on doing the front grill and even expressed some interest in having me do some design mock ups for him in photoshop after seeing the original plans for the case so that might be a "thing" too going forward. Eh, if I can help him out using photoshop and a bit of my time, and maybe work out a few things from him that I can't do on my own due to the lack of specific equipment, that would be nice rather than just paying for one off pieces like I usually do.

If not, it's still nice to have other guys who like this stuff and have done a good deal of it to bounce ideas off of. Never ran into this issue with the fans before, so again, thanks to you guys for clearing that question up rather quickly.


----------



## Darkbreeze

A15's are looking much better even after only a single pass with the vinyl dye. A second pass and then I'll tape off the frames to color the blades red.



This is what they SHOULD look like when finished. Would have been a lot easier if the darn things had come apart.


----------



## ehume

That vinyl dye is very nice.

I'll tell you what I did with my first case. Look at 10. in my sig. I had a 140mm Aerocool Shark on its 7v adapter. Worked out OK.

On the CM N600 and now on the R5, there was no room for a fan in the 5.25" bay. What I did on all three cases was to remove the back grill, and use a pull fan on the heatsink to exhaust the case by pulling the case air out with it. See item 2. in my sig to see my first case in action. With lots of open windows on the case and no fans running except the heatsink fan, there was a ridiculous amount of suction, all going out the back.

If you think about it, you can just see that the rear "grill" is just some holes drilled in the back wall of your case. If you experiment you will see that the "grill" blocks more air than it passes. So removing it allows air to pass out of the case so much more easily and quietly.

Edit - this was the N600:



The R5 rig is simpler.


----------



## Darkbreeze

I agree. If you look at the front intake on my Storm enforcer, you'll see that I modified the front of the case to accept two 140mm fans, removed all grillwork and although it doesn't show in that pic, I eventually removed the grillwork behind the rear exhaust as well. I think it also dropped sound levels by about 4db having no interference with the airflow path, or at least, minimal. Airflow for the top intake, through the heatsink and out the back is pretty much a straight, direct shot, with nothing in the way. I have no filtration on this unit, so I have to blow it out like every two weeks, which is no problem as I have shop air plumbed throughout various locations in the house from the garage. Makes it nice and easy. A nearby air purifier rids the room of the particulates, so no worries on that account either.

Since I keep the doors to this area closed off from the other parts of the house for the most part, and run the purifier like once a week, very little dust is available to accumulate anyhow so it's a fairly efficient setup. I think the Define S will be even better as there are no drive cages at all between the front intakes and the HSF. I'm hoping to get a nice stable 4.8Ghz OC on this 6700k, which is still going to probably use less power than my current [email protected] does.

What is that heatsink you're using on that pic? It doesn't look familiar to me.


----------



## lagittaja

Yeah, I don't like honeycomb and other grills either. They do have an effect on the noise and airflow. Haven't bothered removing it from my R5 rear fan slot yet. I run my fans at such a slow speed so the noise is not that big of a deal, it is restricting the airflow though.
Also, that's the Prolimatech Armageddon.

@ehume what's the term again for that airflow effect where you don't need a rear fan as you've removed the grill on the rear slot, the CPU fan's essentially handling the exhaust duty.
I see you did that with the N600. I've seen it done on SPCR forums multiple times. Haven't personally experimented with it.

Edit: I guess it's the bernoulli principle


----------



## ehume

Prolimatech Armageddon. Since the core temps of the 4770K skyrocket when the overclock hits the inflection point, it does no good to put an NH-D14 or D15 there. But I have enough NF-A14's to put them in there the next time I blow out the case.

As for removing the rear grill, I call it "removing the rear grill.")


----------



## Darkbreeze

I like the scientific jargon, "removing the rear grill". That's nice. What do you call it when you drive down the freeway backwards? Um, driving backwards.

I had problems initially getting my 8320 past 4.3Ghz. It wouldn't stabilize with less than 1.3v but I couldn't keep the temp below 60°C at 1.3v or higher. I swapped an NH-U14S in for the U12S that was on there, moved the front 200mm megaflow to the top, modded the rear fan location to accept a 140mm fan, modded the front of the case to accept two 140mm fans and voila, I was then able to go [email protected] and temps never go over 48°C now. If I try to go any higher on the clock, regardless of how I tweak the other CPU voltage settings, or raise the voltage past 1.325v, thermals either jump or I get instability if I stay at that voltage. Eh, anyhow, moot point as I'll be switching teams on this new build, so it's a bright new day.

And I don't think what you're referencing can be Bernoulli's principle, as that deals with FLUID dynamics, not thermal dynamics. I think what you're looking for is pressure gradient force, where air pressure tries to equalize by moving from areas of high pressure, like inside your case, to areas of low pressure, like out through the rear cutout or any other unsealed openings. If you add the additional factor of advection, where heated air tries to move to cooler areas, you have a very good environment for everything inside the case trying to get outside the case. Since pretty much everything, air, fluid, electricity, tries to take the path of least resistance, you can surmise that most of it will indeed draft straight through the rear opening although some will find it's way out other areas as well.

This will not, of course, apply in cases where there is no enclosure, as with having a side panel off, as there is unlikely to be much pressure differential nor near as much heat. The lack of that heat kind of makes the need for that to happen a moot point anyhow, so as long as you're getting airflow through your heatsink it probably doesn't matter in that case.

Or, I could just be way off base too.


----------



## ehume

I think you have it almost right. The reason I reference Bernoulli's principle is that the pull fan on the heatsink sets up an exit stream. Air is a fluid here. The exiting air catches the ambient air in train and conducts it out the back. The other elements you mention reinforce this basic flow.


----------



## Darkbreeze

Yeah, I can see that. In effect it acts as a draft, slipstream effect. Does anybody happen to know if the LGA 1150 mounting bracket is the same as the new LGA 1151? Just wondering if I'm going to need to contact Noctua for an adapter for my NH-U14S or not? I'm not really seeing much mention of it anywhere so I'm assuming they're the same, but with the recent Skylake rumors of damage I'd prefer to be certain.


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> Yeah, I can see that. In effect it acts as a draft, slipstream effect. Does anybody happen to know if the LGA 1150 mounting bracket is the same as the new LGA 1151? Just wondering if I'm going to need to contact Noctua for an adapter for my NH-U14S or not? I'm not really seeing much mention of it anywhere so I'm assuming they're the same, but with the recent Skylake rumors of damage I'd prefer to be certain.


The socket has been the same since 1156 so you're good to go


----------



## Darkbreeze

I figured that was the case, but I wasn't positive. Thanks.


----------



## vicyo

Ditched the single P12 for a dual NF-A8 in the bottom. Now the 980 stays at 72ºC on load and I don't have those 80ºC spikes I was having since summer went full ******


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> Ditched the single P12 for a dual NF-A8 in the bottom. Now the 980 stays at 72ºC on load and I don't have those 80ºC spikes I was having since summer went full ******
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a clean build, even with the tape. Custom gpu cooler?


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That's a clean build, even with the tape. Custom gpu cooler?


Thanks mate! I Almost broke the fan when it went full blast without the tape holding in place Lol
Yep, that's a Prolimatech MK-26. The 980 would thermal throttle all the time with the stock cooler that I used for about 30 minutes


----------



## shilka

I finally got around to order a new CPU cooler and some more case fans.

Bought a Noctua NH-D15S with an extra NF-A15 PWM (cooler only comes with one NF-A15)
And i also bought two more NF-A14 FLX fans to replace my stock Phanteks fans which make a ton of vibration noise.

Everything should be here on friday.
Going to keep my old NH-U12S for a future system.


----------



## mukumi

I think i'm going to drop my Nepton 140XL and go back to Noctua. The pump of my nepton is making some type of coil whine, I do not want to have that type of issue again. I guess it's my mistake for going through the hype instead of using my brain.

So the Noctua NH-U14S will soon be mine. Shouldn't be a limit for my 5775c.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mukumi*
> 
> I think i'm going to drop my Nepton 140XL and go back to Noctua. The pump of my nepton is making some type of coil whine, I do not want to have that type of issue again. I guess it's my mistake for going through the hype instead of using my brain.
> 
> So the Noctua NH-U14S will soon be mine. Shouldn't be a limit for my 5775c.


Don't beat yourself up. For years the few of us that kept saying CLC were junk kept being stoned to death, beheaded or thrown off of roofs by CLC extremest.









I've had similar happen a few weeks ago for saying NoFan CR-95 is little if any better than many top air coolers without fans.. and cost half as much.







.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Don't beat yourself up. For years the few of us that kept saying CLC were junk kept being stoned to death, beheaded or thrown off of roofs by CLC extremest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've had similar happen a few weeks ago for saying NoFan CR-95 is little if any better than many top air coolers without fans.. and cost half as much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Most AIO coolers are overrated overhyped and overpriced.
But many are apparently willing to fall for any new marketing hype and fashion gimmick that comes along.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Most AIO coolers are overrated overhyped and overpriced.
> But many are apparently willing to fall for any new marketing hype and fashion gimmick that comes along.


Preaching to the choir, mate.


----------



## shilka

Is animal0307 still ative or has this club died?
I know i was on the owners list once but i dont see my name or the Noctua stuff i own on the list in the OP.


----------



## mukumi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Most AIO coolers are overrated overhyped and overpriced.
> But many are apparently willing to fall for any new marketing hype and fashion gimmick that comes along.


To my defense i've purchased mine during a "sales" and it was half the price of a nh-d14. The nepton had good reviews but are apparently subjects to "high pitch noise". I can RMA it but that's a pain to do


----------



## SLOWION

Got a chance to play with the Noctua Chromax line











Pretty cool being able to color match Noctua fans now although not the cheapest solution


----------



## Whippet

Nice, price isnt bad. UK supplier has the pads at £5 which cover 2 fans and the pins at £5 which will cover 5 fans.
So not a massive amount on top.
I kinda like the original colours though, shows Im more bothered about performance than looks. Mind you Ive replaced the windowed panel in my case as Im a minimalist freak.


----------



## reset1101

I join the club with a Noctua NH-D15S and 2 NF-A14 FLX in the front of the case. Everything adjusted to 40-50% rpms so you can only hear the mechanical hard drives powered on.


----------



## shilka

Why do you have the PSU suck hot air from the video card? the fan on the PSU is intake so if there is a filter in the bottom you should flip it around.


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whippet*
> 
> Nice, price isnt bad. UK supplier has the pads at £5 which cover 2 fans and the pins at £5 which will cover 5 fans.
> So not a massive amount on top.
> I kinda like the original colours though, shows Im more bothered about performance than looks. Mind you Ive replaced the windowed panel in my case as Im a minimalist freak.


Ohh from where? Would love to throw some black ones onto the industrial and replace my vardars with them.


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Why do you have the PSU suck hot air from the video card? the fan on the PSU is intake so if there is a filter in the bottom you should flip it around.


I dont know if you have watched any video from OC3DTV Youtube channel, but in a lot of them (specially when talking about cases or PSUs) he has explained time and again that position of the PSU doesnt matter. Heat rises so it doesnt affect the PSU at all. Ive been mounting PSUs with the fan looking up for the last years and never had any temp issues withe PSUs or higher temps than normal.

Also, my PSU is semi-passive, so as it is now heat rises so fan starts spinning later, wether if I turn it around, heat gets stuck inside the PSU and fan would start to spin earlier.


----------



## Whippet

Nice, although I kind of like the original colour scheme, knowing that ive gone for performance over looks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Ohh from where? Would love to throw some black ones onto the industrial and replace my vardars with them.


Quiet PC.com


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> Got a chance to play with the Noctua Chromax line
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty cool being able to color match Noctua fans now although not the cheapest solution


Nice review. Noctua's come a long way from the stock brown color. I still prefer it though.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> Got a chance to play with the Noctua Chromax line
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty cool being able to color match Noctua fans now although not the cheapest solution


If they made matching red, green or blue fans that would be great.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> I dont know if you have watched any video from OC3DTV Youtube channel, but in a lot of them (specially when talking about cases or PSUs) he has explained time and again that position of the PSU doesnt matter. Heat rises so it doesnt affect the PSU at all. Ive been mounting PSUs with the fan looking up for the last years and never had any temp issues withe PSUs or higher temps than normal.
> 
> Also, my PSU is semi-passive, so as it is now heat rises so fan starts spinning later, wether if I turn it around, heat gets stuck inside the PSU and fan would start to spin earlier.


"Heat rising" is a weak effect and plays no role in cooling when there is air-flow through the case. The PSU should suck air in from the outside and exhaust it to the outside.


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> "Heat rising" is a weak effect and plays no role in cooling when there is air-flow through the case. The PSU should suck air in from the outside and exhaust it to the outside.


The airflow in my case is 2 fans intake and one exhaust. When gaming the graphics card heat rises and goes partially to the cpu cooler (I have tested that several times as when using an AIO liquid cooler, the cpu temps didnt rise as much as using an air cooler). As for the PSU, even when gaming the air exhausted by it is barely hot and the fan barely spins.

I dont say its like that in every case, its just my personal experience.


----------



## vicyo

I can say that natural air convection plays a major role in the many silverstone cases









sorry... I had to say that


----------



## Ziver

H i,

I just bought a NH-D15S and i'm very happy. I wanna add second fan to heatsink. Personaly i wanna buy NF-F12 because my rams are tall and if i add NF-A15, its looks bad. But NF-12 fit alright.

What do you think , whats your choice ?

Thanks and sorry for my bad english


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziver*
> 
> H i,
> 
> I just bought a NH-D15S and i'm very happy. I wanna add second fan to heatsink. Personaly i wanna buy NF-F12 because my rams are tall and if i add NF-A15, its looks bad. But NF-12 fit alright.
> 
> What do you think , whats your choice ?
> 
> Thanks and sorry for my bad english


2nd fans are only worth about 2c improvement. 3c maximum and that is at low rpm.

If you want better cooling I would suggest optimizing your case airflow so CPU and GPU get air as close to room temperature as possible. This means keeping their heated exhaust air from mixing into and heating up the cool intake air.
"Ways to Better Cooling" linked in my sig might be helpful. 1st post is index, click on topic of interest to see it. Any questions please ask in that thread or new thread..


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry but I have to say it. You are so full of your own hot air, about convective airflow you must be floating at least a mile high.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have no idea what convection and airflow are doing in a computer case.. Even SilverStone's 90 degree rotation cases do not depend on convectiive airflow .. which is why they have 2x 180mm bottom intake fans spinning 600-1200rpm pushing air up and out the top of case. Unplug the fans and see ho hot things get.
> 
> sorry... I had to say that


I might no be a expert on thermodynamics but I can tell from personal experience that air convection do have some effects inside computer cases, special with cases with low airflow.
The FT03 Mini I had did not have a 180mm fan and the FT03 currently have only use two 80mm fans that I run semi passive on "facebook machine" mode. I only set secondary fan on the 980 to run at constant 600RPM so that the vrm don't overheat and the mobo VRM fan on because it takes too much trouble to turn it off
active
passive

even with almost all fans disabled I did not have that much difference in temperatures and you can see the intake/ambient temperature on the sensor I put on the bottom of the case, so saying that convective airflow does nothing inside a computer case is just bull. Why wouldn't engineers make use of something free and universally available to help solving their problems?


----------



## miklkit

Comparing convection to fans means that the fans are not working.


----------



## vicyo

They don't really need to work with only a light load. They just need to work while I'm gaming or rendering without being annoying at night.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> I might no be a expert on thermodynamics but I can tell from personal experience that air convection do have some effects inside computer cases, special with cases with low airflow.
> The FT03 Mini I had did not have a 180mm fan and the FT03 currently have only use two 80mm fans that I run semi passive on "facebook machine" mode. I only set secondary fan on the 980 to run at constant 600RPM so that the vrm don't overheat and the mobo VRM fan on because it takes too much trouble to turn it off
> active
> passive
> 
> even with almost all fans disabled I did not have that much difference in temperatures and you can see the intake/ambient temperature on the sensor I put on the bottom of the case, so saying that convective airflow does nothing inside a computer case is just bull. Why wouldn't engineers make use of something free and universally available to help solving their problems?


The fact your system is working is not proof of convection airflow. It is only proof your system is working. Maybe it is a combination of extremely low speed fans and a little 'hot air rises', but it proves nor disproves anything you or I have said.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Comparing convection to fans means that the fans are not working.


Indeed! We move more air with out lungs than 'convection' does in our computer cases.









The simple truth is even a very slow moving fan moves air at a pace that can easily overcome any air movement convection can create in a computer case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> They don't really need to work with only a light load. They just need to work while I'm gaming or rendering without being annoying at night.


Not sure what you are getting at. but the cooling of my systems are silent / near silent (below room ambient noise level) 99% of the time. Only noise I can hear so I know they are running is the HDD noises. Even at 100% load the systems are only making 35-35dBA. A very quiet room is 30-32dBA. A keyboard makes as much or more noise.


----------



## vicyo

So you are saying that my system was working with extremely low forced airflow and a little 'hot air rises' that is not air convection? I'm pretty sure that 'hot air rises' is a type of convection.

The fan on the gpu indeed affect the airflow in the PCI area and that's why it did not change anything there, but I doubt it affected the CPU area with the pcb blocking the way. So why didn't the cpu temperatures skyrocketed as you said it could happen if not for 'hot air rising'?

What I'm saying is that convective airflow might not be a huge thing but working against, unless it's really necessary, is just stupidity and wasted energy. That's why computer cases have intake on the bottom area and exhaust on the top area. Denying it's effects is just like believing that gravity on earth exactly 10m/s²

the silent thing is exactly like I writed with nothing between the lines. Noise is subjective to the person and even if the computer is not louder than the keyboard, the keyboard does not make a continuous humming noise that can be annoying. But that has nothing to do with the convection thing.


----------



## SLOWION

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice review. Noctua's come a long way from the stock brown color. I still prefer it though.


what were the noise levels like on those little 90mm fans?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> If they made matching red, green or blue fans that would be great.


You mean like an Nvidia green? That wouldn't be a bad idea


----------



## Harrywang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> So you are saying that my system was working with extremely low forced airflow and a little 'hot air rises' that is not air convection? I'm pretty sure that 'hot air rises' is a type of convection.
> 
> The fan on the gpu indeed affect the airflow in the PCI area and that's why it did not change anything there, but I doubt it affected the CPU area with the pcb blocking the way. So why didn't the cpu temperatures skyrocketed as you said it could happen if not for 'hot air rising'?
> 
> What I'm saying is that convective airflow might not be a huge thing but working against, unless it's really necessary, is just stupidity and wasted energy. That's why computer cases have intake on the bottom area and exhaust on the top area. Denying it's effects is just like believing that gravity on earth exactly 10m/s²
> 
> the silent thing is exactly like I writed with nothing between the lines. Noise is subjective to the person and even if the computer is not louder than the keyboard, the keyboard does not make a continuous humming noise that can be annoying. But that has nothing to do with the convection thing.


Computer cases that have intake on the bottom and exhaust on the top doesn't mean it's optimal. You can have a closed top and air will still move out of the case wherever there is an opening.


----------



## epic1337

"convection" type cooling would only work if you have an insanely large surface area, we're talking about a few square meters of surface area.
those passive fin stacks aren't even remotely enough to move air by itself, they're designed with an adequately breezy case in mind.

you know the tubings on the back of old fridges? those are convective cooling coils, they cool a 100W~200W heat-load and look at how huge the surface area is.


----------



## Luckael

New owner of C14s.


----------



## Adraps11

before cable management and moving of bottom intake.



After 45 minutes of fine tuning cables. I'm planning on replacing the fractal front intakes with some 140mm noctuas. I need something that'll really move air across that front expanse, something strong, yet silent. I've thought of having a specialized bracket mounted in the bottom front 120mm slot that would allow you to swivel a fan, so that it was pulling the air from the top front intake, blowing it directly onto the motherboard. Would that be a bad idea?
I have 3 NF-P12s , 2 NF-F12s, and one NF-A8 currently in my setup. I don't mind the colors, I actually like the contrast they make against the black Fractal Define R5.
With the moving of the P-12 directly under the heavily overclocked 290, it never rises above 70 degrees when gaming.


----------



## Adraps11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What I said was.
> 
> Define R5 with 2x front and 1x bottom intakes will cool at near silent noise levels. Your noise issues will be CLC and GPU fans and CLC pump.
> 
> Adding fans inside of case is more air_*blow*_ than air*flow*. Where is this air blowing across mobo going to? It might help one area, but often causes problems elsewhere. Case airflow is just that, flow .. flowing the components' heated exhaust air out of case without it mixing and heating up the cool air flowing to components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig, 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. Sorry if I've said it before. I see that last sentence in my dreams now. Hope they do not become nightmares.


That's what I was thinking. If one did place a fan inside the case like that it would probably just be blowing warm air over the components and effecting other areas. It was just a thought!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adraps11*
> 
> That's what I was thinking. If one did place a fan inside the case like that it would probably just be blowing warm air over the components and effecting other areas. It was just a thought!


If you have the fan you could try it and see. Air is a fickled witch who often does things least expected.

Much of your motherboard cooling issue is the result of using CLC on CPU. I rarely (make that only for testing) do I use CLCs. I see no reason to complicate a nice quiet and cooler overclocked system with a less dependable more complicated CLC. Top Tier air is cheaper, does as good or better job, runs quieter and if something fails its a fan .. quick easy and cheap to fix with no down time. If a CLC fails, it's the pump, system is dead until complete new system is installed, not cheap, not quick, no fun no having functioning system.


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What I said was.


Man... after re-reading what you quoted there I remembered on my own bad habit to read too much into things. I do own you a apology for my bad way to interpret things that otherwise would end in a completely different way. And for all those mistakes I am sorry.

worry not, I still believe in the whole convection thing, but just pretend it is some drunk man grumbling


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> Man... after re-reading what you quoted there I remembered on my own bad habit to read too much into things. I do own you a apology for my bad way to interpret things that otherwise would end in a completely different way. And for all those mistakes I am sorry.
> 
> worry not, I still believe in the whole convection thing, but just pretend it is some drunk man grumbling


By all means, keep grumbling.








And if you find or develop any empirical data that shows convectin working in a case with fans running please post. I'm not perfect .. I make mistakes too. I've just found that air movement created by even a very slow fan overpowers an air movement convection can create within the temperature range and space of a normal computer case.

I have wondered what would happen if I was duct all computer case exhaust vents to an open fireplace. Would be interesting to see how much airflow the 20 feet of 8" round duct from room up and out of roof would produce.


----------



## Adraps11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you have the fan you could try it and see. Air is a fickled witch who often does things least expected.
> 
> Much of your motherboard cooling issue is the result of using CLC on CPU. I rarely (make that only for testing) do I use CLCs. I see no reason to complicate a nice quiet and cooler overclocked system with a less dependable more complicated CLC. Top Tier air is cheaper, does as good or better job, runs quieter and if something fails its a fan .. quick easy and cheap to fix with no down time. If a CLC fails, it's the pump, system is dead until complete new system is installed, not cheap, not quick, no fun no having functioning system.


I've already tried tying an 80mm fan blowing directly on the ram, pump head, and general motherboard area and it made no difference, not that I needed it anyway. My case and component temps are actually very good Adding that extra 80mm fan may have actually raised the temps by one degree, because of the hot air being expelled by the GPU rising up. Now I do need my vrm fan, that one makes a huge difference. The only issue I am having is a hot running socket, due to me pushing my motherboard to it's cpu overclocking limit. I have an fx8350 at 4.7ghz running in the mid-range 990fx Killer. I can run 4.8ghz stable, but the socket temp gets to high for comfort during IBT. I already have a socket fan in place, it's just that with the 990fx killer, when you introduce a voltage offset for stabilizing the overclock, things heat up quickly. The board lacks any LLC function, so the closest I can get is a +100mv offset.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you have the fan you could try it and see. Air is a fickled witch who often does things least expected.


----------



## miklkit

Yes the AMD motherboards in general can not handle the FX cpu and the VRMs tend to overheat. Placing a fan on the VRMs is now standard procedure for any type of water cooling.

With air cooling I do the same thing by moving the center fan as close to the motherboard as possible so it blows some air onto the overheating VRMs.


----------



## SkyFred

Hello there !
I recently got back to Noctua with a NH-D15S after a short water cooling period (my H220-X leaked







)
My first experience with Noctua was also my first aftermarket air cooler, the NH-U9B SE2 which is now in my gf's rig.

I also have 2 NF S12B redux fans installed as rear exhaust and bottom intake.

Here's a pic to join the club :


----------



## Ha-Nocri

NH-D15S is 165mm tall, Corsair 400c is 215mm wide (the whole case). Wonder if it would fit?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ha-Nocri*
> 
> NH-D15S is 165mm tall, Corsair 400c is 215mm wide (the whole case). Wonder if it would fit?


Rule of thumb: if a case has a 120mm exhaust fan, it will fit a full tower cooler like this one. To fit an Archon or a Silver Arrow, you need a case with a 140mm exhaust fan.


----------



## doyll

Bittech claims 170mm in their review.

Personally, if Corsair can't even bother to tell us in case's specs what the CPU clearance is, I'll buy from a company like Fractal Design, be quiet!, Phantkes, and others that do tell us how tall a cooler will fit.


----------



## mukumi

Quick feedback on the switch Nepton 140XL => NH-U14S. I've gained silence and a few degrees on the CPU. However my GPU seems a little bit hotter.

I'll have to check how I can manage that (side fan will probably be one of the best solution, or the Lian Li BS-03 duct).


----------



## ikem

another shot of the c14s's


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> what were the noise levels like on those little 90mm fans?
> You mean like an Nvidia green? That wouldn't be a bad idea


I have them turned down via BIOS settings, so I can't hear them at all. Even at full speed, they are pretty quiet. Per Noctura's website, the fans are rated at 17.6 dB(A).

Click here for more specs.


----------



## NIK1

I have a NF-A14 industrial PPC-2000 IP67 PWM fan in the front intake on my cosmos 2 case. I know this fan is best for radiators since it was on a swiftech rad I was using before. I can get a Noctua NF-A14 PWM Linus Tech Tips Edition 140mm Cooling Fan 1500 RPM from a friend of mine who has a couple extra. Do you think this Linus Tech Tips Edition 140mm Noctua will do a better job than the 140 mm Industrial that I have on now as front intake.Let me know what you think..

119243_l.jpg 275k .jpg file


----------



## Darkbreeze

So, after much complaining about the PITA it was to do this versus other fans where the blades are removeable, finally got these done. Four A15's and then I replaced the A15 on my U14S with an NF-A14 PWM that has better static pressure, somewhat fuller coverage of the full width and height of the heatsink and in my opinion, a less noticeable hum than the A15's. They came out ok. Not exactly 100% what I was looking for and I'd be a lot happier if they made the Chromax corner vibration dampners for the A15's like they do for the square models, but it worked out well enough.

Rattle can vinyl dye was used for the fans and front case panel. Paint was used on anything metal.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I have a NF-A14 industrial PPC-2000 IP67 PWM fan in the front intake on my cosmos 2 case. I know this fan is best for radiators since it was on a swiftech rad I was using before. I can get a Noctua NF-A14 PWM Linus Tech Tips Edition 140mm Cooling Fan 1500 RPM from a friend of mine who has a couple extra. Do you think this Linus Tech Tips Edition 140mm Noctua will do a better job than the 140 mm Industrial that I have on now as front intake.Let me know what you think..
> 
> 119243_l.jpg 275k .jpg file


Use LNA's on those if you do case fans.

I'm using 2 x NF-A14 ULN fans.


----------



## Ziver

Finaly,,

I have 3xP12 on Front side, 2xA14 on Top Side , 1xA14 Back Side and AF15&F12 on NH-D15S


----------



## shilka

Spoiler: Got my NH-D15S installed


----------



## vicyo

Did anyone noticed any significant difference using only 1 fan instead of 2 fans on the D15?

I wish I could install my D15 "properly" without tight clearances even if installed on the vertical


----------



## Darkbreeze

On the D15 and other dual heatsink coolers, I've seen significant thermal differences in performance (5-10°C) with only one fan versus two. On single heatsink coolers like the U14S, I've only seen maybe a 1°C difference between single and dual fan operations. Others results may be different, but that's what I've seen when testing those configurations in Prime runs.


----------



## mypickaxe

So now I'm finding out there's a Chroma line with black and blue? Hmm. I'm not sure I want to change what I have, but it is awfully tempting.



I supposed I should call her "Doc Noct"


----------



## benjamen50

I installed my Noctua NH-D14 upside down. Should I redo it so that it isn't upside down?


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benjamen50*
> 
> I installed my Noctua NH-D14 upside down. Should I redo it so that it isn't upside down?


The noctua logo is upside down? If it's that you HAVE to install properly or you should see the world BURN









jokes aside there is no difference in performance. The only problem would be the ram clearance but looks like you did not have it


----------



## NIK1

I am looking for 2 of the Noctua NF-F12 PWM "Linus Tech Tips Special Edition" 120mm Cooling Fans. Anyone know I can get these. Performance pcs was sold out...


----------



## Darkbreeze

This looks like about the only place that has them. Seems as though it may be discontinued, but I'm not sure about that. NCIX has the 140mm version, but not the 120mm ones.

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/noctua-nf-f12-pwm-linus-tech-tips-edition-120mm-cooling-fan-fg-056-nc.html


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys. I'm replacing my old build, long story, with a new one. It'll be in an NCase M1. I'll have some beefy hardware, but, I'm planning on using a NF-A9 92mm as exhaust, a NH-D9DX i4 as the CPU cooler, a NF-S12A as intake for over the CPU/motherboard area, and another NF-S12A to instake air into the GPU (blower style) and hard drive area. It's pretty much all I can fit for fans in useful areas, building in an Ncase M1. What do you guys think?


----------



## mr squishy

I'd like to be added to the club. I have 2 LTT edition NF-F12's. I only have one in my system right now, but I'm hoping to pick up an LTT Edition 140mm as well for my next cpu cooler, which should be a Cryorig Z1 (when it comes out).
Here's a pic:


----------



## Contiusa

Hi guys, I just installed a NH-U14S a couple days ago and I was looking for another NF-A15 fan for a push pull configuration. No stocks in my country, so I was looking for options while waiting for stocks to be restored. But *when comparing other options with the NF-A15 I noticed that Noctua states the NF-A15 with 1200rpm, but my NF-A15 is running above 1500rpm.*

Then I found *this article saying that the bundle fan comes with 1500rmp and the retail fan comes with 1200rpm...* Honestly, is this really true? According to the review _"Noctua actually recommends using the standard 1200 RPM retail version at the rear because according to them, it will provide the best balance of performance and acoustics"._ Do they mean the third fan on the D15? From my understanding, they obviously don't mean the second fan for the NH-U14S.

http://www.relaxedtech.com/reviews/noctua/nh-d15/4

So it does not seem to be a typo from Noctua. And what about if you need to replace a NF-A15? Add a second one, a third one? Crank it all up? No love? Or maybe if I write Noctua will send / sell me a bundle NF-A15?

I am no expert in cooling, but it makes no sense to me.

I appreciate any feedback.


----------



## MicroCat

Yes, a 1200rpm fan called A15 AND a bundled 1500rpm cooler fan makes sense in the Noctua naming scheme. First cover yourself in chocolate and cream, then read it again.









The NF-A*14* is the 1500rpm model - however it has a square frame, but can fit with a little ziptied imagination.



If you're going to all the work of adding a second fan and noise, you could use the A15 1200rpm and put an LNA on your 1500rpm A15 so it runs a 1200rpm. That way you get a little extra cooling with a little less noise.

Is the Redux NF-P14s available in Brazil? It could work, if you don't mind the grey. I prefer matching chocolate and cream with more chocolate and cream.


----------



## Contiusa

The push pull configuration idea is mostly because of the heat down here







I felt the heat on the back of the case (the NF-A15 pushes a lot of air). I already ordered a Corsair SP120 High Performance Edition as an exhaust to be controlled by my fan controller (to don't go deaf) and another NF-A15 to make the flow in between the front fan and the exhaust fan. I would be very happy to shed 3-4ºC with it. I know that test benches show little difference in push pull, but I imagine that in a closed case, during 35-40ºC summer heat, the push pull with a good exhaust fan can make a good difference.

Interesting, are you saying that the NF-A14 is the bundle NF-A15 with a square frame? But I am not sure if I could adapt the wire. I was also considering to import two EK-Vardar F2-140 (or F3). I am not used to these coolers. Would I need to make modifications to fit the Vardars in the U14S? Or buy a new set of bracing wires?

And I don't want to use both at 1200rpm because mine was being PWM controlled at around 1100 "ish" and I gained some 5ºC when I left it full blast at 1500rpm. It made a visible difference. Then if I cap both at 1200rpm I might have the same performance with only one at 1500rpm. Or even less.

I did not get the Noctua joke







(forgive my Portuguese) but I find it odd that an enthusiast vendor like Noctua would sell the stock fan with 1500 and the retail running at LNA speeds. And they both have the same name. they could at least name the retail version NF-A15QE of "Quiet Edition". Even then it would make impossible a push pull configuration with the original fan and defeat the purpose. They should simply sell the same fan. And I assume the reviews are made with spare fans from the D15 I suppose. From all the reviews there is no one mentioning that the retail version is LNA. Kind of nuts, but is Noctua used to do this?


----------



## NKrader

My build is exclusively noctua









http://www.overclock.net/t/1575005/build-log-pizza-under-the-sea-supernas-caselabs-seasonic-supermicro
http://www.overclock.net/t/1575005/...the-sea-supernas-caselabs-seasonic-supermicro


----------



## Contiusa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> The NF-A*14* is the 1500rpm model - however it has a square frame, but can fit with a little ziptied imagination.


Ah, forgot to mention. The NF-A14 is for sale in Brazil. The Redux as well. There is just one store that sells a great deal of Noctua products, including D14 and D15 and spare parts. Other than that, 140mm static pressure fans are hard to find down here.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Contiusa*
> 
> Ah, forgot to mention. The NF-A14 is for sale in Brazil. The Redux as well. There is just one store that sells a great deal of Noctua products, including D14 and D15 and spare parts. Other than that, 140mm static pressure fans are hard to find down here.


Problem solved. Squarely with the A14 option. Or get 2 and mount them to the cooler and use the A15 from the U14 for intake.

I think the split between the 1200rpm and 1500rpm variants is that there might be silent fans and airflow fans in the management group. Lately it seems the airflow advocates got their way with the industrial series. The silent faction couldn't raise much noise against it. But, will release a silent 200mm fan with 10cfm they hope will silence the silence critics. Ok, I'll stop now, sorry, I'm in a punny mood.


----------



## ehume

If you want high static pressure 140mm fans, Rosewill's PWM is very good. It's cheaper but makes more noise than the Noctuas. Another less expensive option is the Thermalright TY-147A and the -143. I did a review of those fans on overclockers.

If I was going to put a third fan on an NH-D15 or -D15S to match the NF-A15 1500, I would add a Thermalright. Of course, knowing that a third fan is useless in high-output situations, I would go with three lower speed Noctuas -- one an NF-A15 1500 with LNA and two retail NF-A15 1200 rpm fans.

I did some other fan reviews, too. You can click on my handle and get a list of the reviews. I can't link to them from here because the forum has rules.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> If you want high static pressure 140mm fans, Rosewill's PWM is very good. It's cheaper but makes more noise than the Noctuas. Another less expensive option is the Thermalright TY-147A and the -143. I did a review of those fans on overclockers.
> 
> If I was going to put a third fan on an NH-D15 or -D15S to match the NF-A15 1500, I would add a Thermalright. Of course, knowing that a third fan is useless in high-output situations, I would go with three lower speed Noctuas -- one an NF-A15 1500 with LNA and two retail NF-A15 1200 rpm fans.
> 
> I did some other fan reviews, too. You can click on my handle and get a list of the reviews. I can't link to them from here because the forum has rules.


Just did a cheapskate gaming build with the Rosewill 140mm PWM Hyperborea (Akasa Apache relabel) - they worked great as intakes and cooler fan. In my quiet little opinion, not only noisier than the A15s, but have a harsher tone above 1000rpm. However, they are the best value 140mm PWM fan in Canada at $11.99CDN - That's under $9 US and in the US they cost a staggering $13.99!! (If anyone from newegg is reading this, look away now, please)

In Canada, Thermalright fans and coolers are now a historical anomaly. Can import them from the US, but after shipping and taxes/duties/exchange, the 147A at $60 is not much of a bargain. And Noctua products cost less here than in the US, currency adjusted. So, at least we have that. For now.

Seems I can link to a very comprehensive 140mm fan test at overclockers: http://www.overclockers.com/15-case-fans-tested-ultimate-140-mm-roundup/ - might seem eerily similar to what ehume was referencing, probably just coincidence.

And here's another one: http://www.overclockers.com/thermalright-ty-143-and-ty-147a-140-mm-fan-review/. This thoughtful and thorough reviewer is a busy guy! ;-)


----------



## Contiusa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Problem solved. Squarely with the A14 option. Or get 2 and mount them to the cooler and use the A15 from the U14 for intake.


Cool, I might get two because they are for a good price. But I just checked the mounting wire and it seems to be proprietary. People really use the zip tie like you mentioned or is there a mod kit of some sort?


----------



## Contiusa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> I did some other fan reviews, too. You can click on my handle and get a list of the reviews. I can't link to them from here because the forum has rules.


Cool, I have been checking the links and they are very helpful, but from what I have seen the top level static pressure 140mm fans are kind of a select breed in the market in general, then you can imagine in Brazil







Phanteks, Thermalright, GentleTyphoon are brands that were never sold here. For some reason there is this store selling Noctua's line, and in isolated cases you see high end products like Gamer Storm Assassin II, a Be Quiet fan, but other than that you find mostly the whole Corsair line (not finding the SP140 Led ones) and air flow fans or 120mm static pressure fans for cases. To import I would probably go for the big dogs anyway. Other than that it might perform worse than one NF-A15 alone.

Oh, well... What was supposed to be an easy add on is becoming an expensive play







And if the zip tie is the standard for modding... Bummer. I will give an earful to Noctua's support


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Contiusa*
> 
> Cool, I might get two because they are for a good price. But I just checked the mounting wire and it seems to be proprietary. People really use the zip tie like you mentioned or is there a mod kit of some sort?


Zipties are wonderful. An art form when required. Not quite modding, but so much more pleasant than those annoying spring steel clips that seem to be designed to sabotage the elegant profile of the great air coolers.

For push/pull fan mounting, zipties are simpler, cleaner and just plain more sexy than two sets of finger traps.

Here's the ZipTie Screw thread created by, yes, ehume, fan mounting guru. It's rumoured he once mounted 65 fans on a Megahalems. Using only time, patience and zipties.



How clean is that? No bulging out, look-at-me, look-at-me steel eyesores that can pollute the sleek edge of a graceful fin stack.


----------



## Contiusa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> For push/pull fan mounting, zipties are simpler, cleaner and just plain more sexy than two sets of finger traps.


Thanks a lot, I'll take a look at it. Maybe I'll get into the mod mood and start enjoying them. I have good manual skills, so I was thinking to make the spring clips myself. Maybe I'll have the 'ziptie' option.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Contiusa*
> 
> The push pull configuration idea is mostly because of the heat down here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt the heat on the back of the case (the NF-A15 pushes a lot of air). I already ordered a Corsair SP120 High Performance Edition as an exhaust to be controlled by my fan controller (to don't go deaf) and another NF-A15 to make the flow in between the front fan and the exhaust fan. I would be very happy to shed 3-4ºC with it. I know that test benches show little difference in push pull, but I imagine that in a closed case, during 35-40ºC summer heat, the push pull with a good exhaust fan can make a good difference.
> 
> Interesting, are you saying that the NF-A14 is the bundle NF-A15 with a square frame? But I am not sure if I could adapt the wire. I was also considering to import two EK-Vardar F2-140 (or F3). I am not used to these coolers. Would I need to make modifications to fit the Vardars in the U14S? Or buy a new set of bracing wires?
> 
> And I don't want to use both at 1200rpm because mine was being PWM controlled at around 1100 "ish" and I gained some 5ºC when I left it full blast at 1500rpm. It made a visible difference. Then if I cap both at 1200rpm I might have the same performance with only one at 1500rpm. Or even less.
> 
> I did not get the Noctua joke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (forgive my Portuguese) but I find it odd that an enthusiast vendor like Noctua would sell the stock fan with 1500 and the retail running at LNA speeds. And they both have the same name. they could at least name the retail version NF-A15QE of "Quiet Edition". Even then it would make impossible a push pull configuration with the original fan and defeat the purpose. They should simply sell the same fan. And I assume the reviews are made with spare fans from the D15 I suppose. From all the reviews there is no one mentioning that the retail version is LNA. Kind of nuts, but is Noctua used to do this?


If your case feels hot, you might want to check the temp of air going into coolers (CPU and GPU) to see if they are more than about 5c above ambient. If they are, I would be looking at optimizing case airflow. Link in my sig, 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. I suggest #5 as a good starting point.


----------



## Contiusa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If your case feels hot, you might want to check the temp of air going into coolers (CPU and GPU) to see if they are more than about 5c above ambient. If they are, I would be looking at optimizing case airflow. Link in my sig, 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. I suggest #5 as a good starting point.


The front of the case is cool, and it is 32ºC ambient right now. I am with the PWM. But if I disable the PWM I can feel the warm flow that the NF-A15 creates at the back of the case. It is a real blower at 1500rpm. Hence why I ordered a Corsair SP120 High Performance, because the stock exhaust fan at the back does not seem to be dealing with all the flow. The two AF140 that I had on the side panel as intakes I placed on top as exhausts, and the other two Cougars that were on top I set aside. When the SP120 arrives I'll dismount the front and replace the intake stock for the two Cougars. Then I think I am set for now (ideally I need two SP fans on top. I had no idea when I bought the Cougars).

On this regard, I love the Carbide. And my GTX Lightning is as cool as it gets. Even gaming at 80% during summer it barely goes above 60ºC.


----------



## Quarazhi

Well, I might as well shoot a reply, I have just bought my sixth Noctua fan. As I have added 1 more 140mm fan to my NH-D15 which has the standard 2 already for the ridiculous-overkill-becauseican reason. I also have 3 140mm fans occupying the top of my Phanteks Enthoo Pro case.







 More pics will be added when I install the 3rd fan to the heat sink.


----------



## SkyFred

Do you guys think my temps will be significantly better if I add a NF-F12 as second fan in front of my NH D15S?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> Do you guys think my temps will be significantly better if I add a NF-F12 as second fan in front of my NH D15S?
> 
> Envoyé de mon ONE E1003 en utilisant Tapatalk


No.
What are your temps and fan speed now?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> Do you guys think my temps will be significantly better if I add a NF-F12 as second fan in front of my NH D15S?
> 
> Envoyé de mon ONE E1003 en utilisant Tapatalk


No. But if you want to squeeze a little more out of your system, use low profile RAM and then you can put your fan in front. Or you can use your stock NF-A15 (1500RPM) + LNA with a retail NF-A15 (1200RPM) for a quieter cooler.

check out my review on Overclockers for details on exact performance.


----------



## SkyFred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> Do you guys think my temps will be significantly better if I add a NF-F12 as second fan in front of my NH D15S?
> 
> Envoyé de mon ONE E1003 en utilisant Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> No.
> What are your temps and fan speed now?
Click to expand...

My i5 2500k @4.5GHz runs at about 65°C in load with CPU fan at 1000rpm.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> My i5 2500k @4.5GHz runs at about 65°C in load with CPU fan at 1000rpm.


Assuming that is at full load, i wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## SkyFred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Assuming that is at full load, i wouldn't worry about it.


Well, thanks for your advice









+rep to you guys


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Noctua Club! I have several Noctua 140mm Redux fans, but just bought a Noctua CPU cooler, NH-12L. Works great on a i5-4690 in a Fractal Node 605 case. Very quiet, easy to mount, keeps the temps at 55°C or less with the CPU under 100% load during encoding.

Seems strange that both fans are blowing down, I'd think that blowing up would work better, but all the pics/literature I've seen have them pointing down. Working fine, so that's the bottom line. I've since added another 120mm Noctua 3 pin fan in the blank opening next to the CPU cooler, intake, blowing cool air on the cooler.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Noctua Club! I have several Noctua 140mm Redux fans, but just bought a Noctua CPU cooler, NH-12L. Works great on a i5-4690 in a Fractal Node 605 case. Very quiet, easy to mount, keeps the temps at 55°C or less with the CPU under 100% load during encoding.
> 
> Seems strange that both fans are blowing down, I'd think that blowing up would work better, but all the pics/literature I've seen have them pointing down. Working fine, so that's the bottom line. I've since added another 120mm Noctua 3 pin fan in the blank opening next to the CPU cooler, intake, blowing cool air on the cooler.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


In my experience pulling air through cooler away from motherboard rather than pushing air toward motherboard. Try it and see which works best for you.


----------



## Methodical

Question on Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000 PWM fan.

Hey all. I know these fans are optimized for radiator application, but will these work well as case fans, too? I plan to install these in my Caselab STH10 case (3 in front and 1 at the rear of the case)

Thanks...Al


----------



## shilka

Updated my build log if anyone want to see how it turned out
Project Arios / Seravee


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Seven Noctua NF-F12 IPPC 2000 120's & two 3000RPM 140's. Black Chromax anti-vibration pads


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Seven Noctua NF-F12 IPPC 2000 120's & two 3000RPM 140's. Black Chromax anti-vibration pads


Curious. Why did you go with different rpm fans as oppose to the same rpms for both type of fans?

Thanks


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Just to be able to give the 140's a little mor umph if needed. Its a 45mm rad & it was getting very hot.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Just to be able to give the 140's a little mor umph if needed. Its a 45mm rad & it was getting very hot.


Ok thanks.

I posted a thread, but thought I'd ask here since it's a Noctua thread.

I am building a new PC (see build list below) and will be using the Nemisis Black Ice 480 and 560 GTX radiators to cool the i7 5930k and 2x 980 ti. I can't decide between the NF-F12 iPPC 2000 or 3000 PWM fan (480 rad) or the NF-A14 iPPC-2000 or 3000 PWM fan (560 rad). I will be using the Aquaero 6 fan controller to control all fans in the case. I've checked the reviews and the reviewers (end users and tech reviewers) give these pretty high marks. Additionally, I've listened to sound test on you tube, but that can be misleading because of the various methods and quality of sound used, I am set on the Noctua fans, but not sure if I should go with 2000 and 3000 rpms. I plan to use a few as case fans, too. I just need to get some feedback from those that may have used both types and can provide some insight. I'd appreciate any help.

Thanks

Specs: (major parts of the build list)

Case: Caselab STH10
CPU: 5930k
MB: MSI X99A Xpower AC??? (waiting on reviews of the new MB)
GPU: 2x 980 Ti
PSU: EVGA 1200 P2


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Ok thanks.
> 
> I posted a thread, but thought I'd ask here since it's a Noctua thread.
> 
> I am building a new PC (see build list below) and will be using the Nemisis Black Ice 480 and 560 GTX radiators to cool the i7 5930k and 2x 980 ti. I can't decide between the NF-F12 iPPC 2000 or 3000 PWM fan (480 rad) or the NF-A14 iPPC-2000 or 3000 PWM fan (560 rad). I will be using the Aquaero 6 fan controller to control all fans in the case. I've checked the reviews and the reviewers (end users and tech reviewers) give these pretty high marks. Additionally, I've listened to sound test on you tube, but that can be misleading because of the various methods and quality of sound used, I am set on the Noctua fans, but not sure if I should go with 2000 and 3000 rpms. I plan to use a few as case fans, too. I just need to get some feedback from those that may have used both types and can provide some insight. I'd appreciate any help.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Specs: (major parts of the build list)
> 
> Case: Caselab STH10
> CPU: 5930k
> MB: MSI X99A Xpower AC??? (waiting on reviews of the new MB)
> GPU: 2x 980 Ti
> PSU: EVGA 1200 P2


The 120's,I would get the 2000RPM... The 140's are loud @ about 2200RPM, but I have headset & it doesn't affect me. I would say non-pwn since you're using a fan controller.. I had Corsair SP 2000RPM & the Noctuas have dropped temps by 5 degrees @ least. I think the 140's play the biggest part. Far as the motherboard, I love it. I'm thinking about getting the MSI Godlike Carbon though...


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> The 120's,I would get the 2000RPM... The 140's are loud @ about 2200RPM, but I have headset & it doesn't affect me. I would say non-pwn since you're using a fan controller.. I had Corsair SP 2000RPM & the Noctuas have dropped temps by 5 degrees @ least. I think the 140's play the biggest part. Far as the motherboard, I love it. I'm thinking about getting the MSI Godlike Carbon though...


Thanks for the input on the fans.

I am waiting for some reviews on that same MB, so while I wait, I've been procuring other parts for the build.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thanks for the input on the fans.
> 
> I am waiting for some reviews on that same MB, so while I wait, I've been procuring other parts for the build.


Reviews (board is the same as the X99S XPower)

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2015/05/29/msi-x99a-xpower-ac-review/1

http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/luke-hill/msi-x99a-xpower-ac-motherboard-review/

http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/msi-x99s-xpower-ac-motherboard-review,1.html


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Reviews (board is the same as the X99S XPower)
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2015/05/29/msi-x99a-xpower-ac-review/1
> 
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/luke-hill/msi-x99a-xpower-ac-motherboard-review/
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/msi-x99s-xpower-ac-motherboard-review,1.html


Oh, ok. I've read all of those reviews then. I guess I am waiting for them to be officially released then. However, if I collect all my parts before they plan to release it, I may just stick with my original plans and get the X99A XPower MB.

Thanks


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys. So, I've power on my system finally and here's the temps, in an NCase M1 with two NF-A9's (one intake, one on CPU cooler), a NF-A9x14 (92mm x 14mm, exhaust), and a NF-S12A (intake for CPU area). At one point my system was actually idling lower than ambient air for the CPU. Pretty impressed. After running AIDA64 to stress the CPU for 10 minutes, it didn't once tip over 135F. Pretty good I'd say. We'll see what happens when I add in my last little bit of hardware.


----------



## clubber_lang

Hey guys...has anyone in this thread had good luck using the Noctua NH-D15 inside a CM Storm trooper case? I'm using a Asus Z77 MB , and from a lot of the pics I've seen , the cooler looks to be extremely close to the ram slots. I just had my old cooler go bad , and the Noctua looks like the one I want.....just not sure if I'll run into mounting / clearance issues?


----------



## JunkaDK

So guys,

I'm looking for some advice on GPU cooling.. I am trying to get the most out of my R9 Fury STRIX by optimizing.

I found by tipping the front fan down towards the backplate , it really makes a huge difference on how cool it feels.. and i hope, adds alot more cooling to the VRM's.

I moved it down so that it was closer to the 2 bottom fans .. has anyone tried anything like this before? The fans are corsair AF140 fans, but i am thinking about trying some Noctua Industrial fans as my theory is they wil push more air towards the GPU. The airflow is minimal so i guess the AF fans is not the best..

Please hit me up with thoughts and ideas.


----------



## haythere_uk

Hi,

Bought 8 Noutua NF-F12 2000 PWN fans for my Radiators as the Push Fan's, What's Noctua best for Pull fans?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haythere_uk*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Bought 8 Noutua NF-F12 2000 PWN fans for my Radiators as the Push Fan's, What's Noctua best for Pull fans?


At that RPM, your best bet is 8 more of the same.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Has anyone heard when the U-Type 65mm cooler was coming out? Would be really good for a small case I am putting a PFSense router in.


----------



## Drags

why would you wait for that when there are other options that are also lower than the ~70mm or so this will have?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drags*
> 
> why would you wait for that when there are other options that are also lower than the ~70mm or so this will have?


This design would work well in the case i am planning to use, Antec ISK 300-150. That is the only reason. Plus these fans are very nearly silent. I have used them before.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Has anyone heard when the U-Type 65mm cooler was coming out? Would be really good for a small case I am putting a PFSense router in.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> This design would work well in the case i am planning to use, Antec ISK 300-150. That is the only reason. Plus these fans are very nearly silent. I have used them before.


Tiny case. I wonder if this 'U-Type 65mm' can be mounted side to side rather than front to back. Do you use CPUl graphics?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Tiny case. I wonder if this 'U-Type 65mm' can be mounted side to side rather than front to back. Do you use CPUl graphics?


If it uses the usual mounting hardware it ahould mount either way.

As for video, i will be using a server board and they always have very basic on board video. Plus i will be using IPMI rather then have a monitor hooked up. Plus i wont need a dvd drive.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> If it uses the usual mounting hardware it ahould mount either way.
> 
> As for video, i will be using a server board and they always have very basic on board video. Plus i will be using IPMI rather then have a monitor hooked up. Plus i wont need a dvd drive.


Indeed. Would be nice to be able to have it all flowing from one side to the other.


----------



## lagittaja

Shame that there's been no signs of the next gen fans. Oh well, maybe we'll hear about them at Computex again








I'll be interested in seeing if they have that 20cm fan on show yet again and whether there has been any visible changes to it.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Indeed. Would be nice to be able to have it all flowing from one side to the other.


I will have a 4 port nic as well, so wont get much ccross flow


----------



## Belabacsi

Hi Guys!

First post here  Kindly ask for a quick help regarding choosing the right Noctua fan for intake and exhaust fan purposes for my *BitFenix Shinobi* (non-Window version) case. As I can see, Noctua offers 3 types of 120 mm fan for different purposes:


I have chosen Noctua *NF-F12* PWM for CPU cooler. It is clear, this is a static pressure fan, capable of better "focusing" the airflow through the heatsink.
For *front intake* purposes, I plan to buy Noctua *NF-P12* PWM type, because there are *"honeycomb"* type intake fan holes on the case (stamped directly onto the metal body of a chassis itself), combined with very restrictive mesh filters on each. According to other experience found on the net, using S12As as the intakes, they are really loud behind the filters.
For rear exhaust, I plan to have Noctua *NF-S12A* PWM. And this is the point where I'm not sure about  The rear exhaust fan holes are simply "honeycomb" type holes *without mesh filters* on it. Does it mean can I use NF-S12A for rear exhaust? Or is it better to have P12 also for exhaust?
For top exhaust, the fan holes are the same as intake holes ("honeycomb" *with mesh filters*, the mesh filter is part of the top panel of the case). Is it better to use S12A also for top exhaust with mesh filters or P12 is recommended?
So the main point is, it is not totally clear for me if there are any difference between *P12 and S12A* when *puling or pushing* air through the mesh air filters.
Some pics of the case can be found here.

Thank You very much in advance for the support!

Best Regards
Belabacsi
Budapest, Hungary


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belabacsi*
> 
> Hi Guys!
> 
> First post here  Kindly ask for a quick help regarding choosing the right Noctua fan for intake and exhaust fan purposes for my *BitFenix Shinobi* (non-Window version) case. As I can see, Noctua offers 3 types of 120 mm fan for different purposes:
> 
> 
> I have chosen Noctua *NF-F12* PWM for CPU cooler. It is clear, this is a static pressure fan, capable of better "focusing" the airflow through the heatsink.
> For *front intake* purposes, I plan to buy Noctua *NF-P12* PWM type, because there are *"honeycomb"* type intake fan holes on the case (stamped directly onto the metal body of a chassis itself), combined with very restrictive mesh filters on each. According to other experience found on the net, using S12As as the intakes, they are really loud behind the filters.
> For rear exhaust, I plan to have Noctua *NF-S12A* PWM. And this is the point where I'm not sure about  The rear exhaust fan holes are simply "honeycomb" type holes *without mesh filters* on it. Does it mean can I use NF-S12A for rear exhaust? Or is it better to have P12 also for exhaust?
> For top exhaust, the fan holes are the same as intake holes ("honeycomb" *with mesh filters*, the mesh filter is part of the top panel of the case). Is it better to use S12A also for top exhaust with mesh filters or P12 is recommended?
> So the main point is, it is not totally clear for me if there are any difference between *P12 and S12A* when *puling or pushing* air through the mesh air filters.
> Some pics of the case can be found here.
> 
> Thank You very much in advance for the support!
> 
> Best Regards
> Belabacsi
> Budapest, Hungary


Just get NF-F12 and call it a day. They more a lot of air and have good staric pressure for restrictive areas like grills, heat sinks, and radiators. It makes a very good all round fan.


----------



## ehume

When I had a case with a restrictive front "filter" I removed it. I also removed the rear "grill." That was the case in item 2 of my sig. Now, the point of that was to show what happens when you remove such obstructions. The increase in airflow it massive. For one thing, metal downstream from the heatsink causes air to be bounced off it as if it was a solid wall, unless you put in a noisy exhaust fan or remove the metal.

In a review titled "Noctua A-Series (NF-A14 NF-A15) Review" I did for Vortez.net published on 29-06-13 (crazy European dating scheme) I compared the NF-S12A with the NF-F12 and the NF-P12.

Whenever you mount fans, try to use vibration isolators. I have tried pretty much all of them, and these are the best. Free shipping, too.

Bottom line, though: if you have to case mod, do it before you put your stuff in. And it is better to cut out obstructions rather than to overcome them.


----------



## Belabacsi

Thank You very much, Guys!
Originally modding the case was not the plan, but I think I can give it a try by removing the grills 
And what's Your experience with the dust? I absolutely agree, removing grills + mesh filters could be a good choice from airflow point of view but they are useful for fighting against the dust. What do You think?

Best Regards
Belabacsi


----------



## Prophet4NO1

I do not have any filters on my case. Stays pretty clean. I have found possitive pressure and high airflow work very well at keeping dust at a mininum. If the ait never really has a chance to slow down the dust that does get sucked in wont have much of a chance to settle. It will just get sucked through with the air it came in with.


----------



## Belabacsi

Good point, thank You very much for the support! I'm going to design and plan the removal of grills now with a good beer 

Greetings from Budapest
Belabacsi


----------



## equinoxe3d

I have all NF-P12 on both intakes and exhaust and it works well (the intakes have a small mesh filter and are rather restricted).
I don't know if your board allows independent control for all fan connectors, but if not it might be best as suggested to go with all fans of the same model (either P or F) to keep speeds in sync and have a (relatively) uniform sound signature.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *equinoxe3d*
> 
> I have all NF-P12 on both intakes and exhaust and it works well (the intakes have a small mesh filter and are rather restricted).
> I don't know if your board allows independent control for all fan connectors, but if not it might be best as suggested to go with all fans of the same model (either P or F) to keep speeds in sync and have a (relatively) uniform sound signature.


I approve. If someone could get them easily, GT's are better for the task (I have used both). But you can get those P12's fairly easily. Also, I expect them to transition to redux fairly soon. That will get the price down.


----------



## Drags

Last time I've been in touch with them (October last year) they've stated that they have had a "last minute issue" with the 200mm fan - without release date yet again.


----------



## lagittaja

Surprised you got that much info from them.
I prodded them this January and got this
Quote:


> I'm very sorry to tell you, that I can't give any news out right now.
> But I can tell you that we do everything to get those products out as soon as we are confident that it meets our own as well as our customers high demands.
> Those products are high up on our priority list and we're doing our best to get them onto store shelves as quickly as possible.


Was inquiring about the status of the next-gen 120x25/140x25 fans.
I did also ask about the 20cm fan.


----------



## doyll

Indeed, Noctua is well known for keeping their developments very secret and saying little about future releases..


----------



## poinguan

Why Noctua doesn't make GPU cooler?


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poinguan*
> 
> Why Noctua doesn't make GPU cooler?


It takes a lot of R&D with those CLCs, and it's a very niche product. A smaller company like Noctua might not want to bother with the investment, compared to large companies like Corsair and NZXT.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poinguan*
> 
> Why Noctua doesn't make GPU cooler?


GPUs change design very often, and this mean cooler changes. Combine this with it being a niche market and the crasy popularity of all the CLC garbage and hype make it a bad market to try getting into. Only way to get to the top is by being a carnie barker like all the others that are hyping and scamming shills in for the fleecing. There are a few good reputable companies marketing GPU air coolers, but they are basically selling a product that was designed and proven good years ago. All they have to do is miner adoptions to newer GPUs.


----------



## lagittaja

Also there's the fact that AIB coolers have gotten better past years. There's less and less need for aftermarket air coolers for GPU's.
And if you meant a CLC cooler, well no. What point would it be for _Noctua_, an air cooling company specialising in heatsinks go and make a CLC cooler for a GPU?
If they wanted to do something original, well good luck with that. Also R&D costs and how long it would take to develop, Noctua won't release a product unless it's pretty much perfect in their opinion so it would take years and years and years to develop.


----------



## Transmaniacon

I have a pair of Noctua NF-A14 fans as my front intakes, if I were to add a CLC in the future, something like the NZXT X61 or Corsair H110, would these Noctua fans work well with a radiator?


----------



## lagittaja

Yea, they'll work nicely. Not as high static pressure you could achieve with let's say Phanteks PH-F140MP and so forth but still very decent. Do you have the ULN, FLX or PWM?


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Yea, they'll work nicely. Not as high static pressure you could achieve with let's say Phanteks PH-F140MP and so forth but still very decent. Do you have the ULN, FLX or PWM?


I've got the PWM models, glad to know they would work, thanks!


----------



## Drags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> I've got the PWM models, glad to know they would work, thanks!


I have that setup running - as push config on a h100i - runs just fine


----------



## poinguan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Also there's the fact that AIB coolers have gotten better past years. There's less and less need for aftermarket air coolers for GPU's.
> And if you meant a CLC cooler, well no. What point would it be for _Noctua_, an air cooling company specialising in heatsinks go and make a CLC cooler for a GPU?
> If they wanted to do something original, well good luck with that. Also R&D costs and how long it would take to develop, Noctua won't release a product unless it's pretty much perfect in their opinion so it would take years and years and years to develop.


I'm referring to air cooler, not CLC.
I'm just hoping for a successor to Arctic Cooling Accelerometer Xtreme IV. Or did Asus Matrix and MSI Lightning already won with their cooler (980Ti platform)?


----------



## MooMoo

Anyone heard about this Active Noise Cancellation fan stuff, when it's coming out?


----------



## ehume

Maybe never. If you think about the physics of wave cancellation, it's awfully directional. They should be lauded for experimenting, but don't hold your breath waiting for this thing.


----------



## FlyingSolo

With a Noctua NH-L12 with only one fan at the top. Will it be good for a i5 3570k at 4.4GHz at 1.2v. Or with the Noctua NH-C14S and using one fan at the bottom. Ordered a Noctua NH-L12. But not sure if i done the right thing. Only have a space of 120mm hight for a CPU cooler.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingSolo*
> 
> With a Noctua NH-L12 with only one fan at the top. Will it be good for a i5 3570k at 4.4GHz at 1.2v. Or with the Noctua NH-C14S and using one fan at the bottom. Ordered a Noctua NH-L12. But not sure if i done the right thing. Only have a space of 120mm hight for a CPU cooler.


Worry more about your case.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Worry more about your case.


Damn just saw your post on the thread i made. Thanks.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingSolo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Worry more about your case.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn just saw your post on the thread i made. Thanks.
Click to expand...

You posted a variation on this on this forum. As doyll would tell you, airflow in the case is at least as important as the heatsink: the case airflow feed the heatsink airflow. That case you posted has limited exhaust, and thus limited airflow.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> You posted a variation on this on this forum. As doyll would tell you, airflow in the case is at least as important as the heatsink: the case airflow feed the heatsink airflow. That case you posted has limited exhaust, and thus limited airflow.


Thanks ehume. Just posted over there.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Switched to a NZXT S340 case, thought I would share my Noctua setup. I have two A14s in the front, an S12 in the back, A14 in the top, and an F12 on my U12S cooler.


----------



## czarek

May I join?



Intake: 3x NF-S12A PWM @240-450 RPM
Exhaust: 1x NF-A14 PWM @260-480 RPM
CPU: NH-D15S @250-780 RPM

Here are the temps:


----------



## aludka

I'd like to join as well. How's this for some Noctua love?





Fan count;

Noctua NH-D15 x 1
Nocuta NF-S12A PWM x 12
Noctua NF-A15 PWM x 1

PCPartPicker Link.


----------



## czarek

Air cooled Caselabs Mercury S8 - WOW


----------



## Transmaniacon

What's everyone using for PWM control? My motherboard only has one PWM header which I use for my CPU cooler, so I currently have the LNA's on my front intake fans. I have been looking for something compact that supports PWM control, but if I get one of the PWM splitters, will it matter that I have different RPM fans? In my case I have 3 A14s, a S12 and a F12.


----------



## haythere_uk

In my new system im building, I'm runnning 16 Noctua F12-PPC industrial Fans in Push/Pull Config on two 480 radiators each each rad has its own Swiftech 8 PWM fan splitter which is then connect to the Corsair Mini Commander

The three front intake and exhaust as they're the same RPM are connected to a third Swiftech 8PWM fan splitter. This should allow me to control them through the Corsair Link software

*Redacted*


----------



## czarek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> What's everyone using for PWM control? My motherboard only has one PWM header which I use for my CPU cooler, so I currently have the LNA's on my front intake fans. I have been looking for something compact that supports PWM control, but if I get one of the PWM splitters, will it matter that I have different RPM fans? In my case I have 3 A14s, a S12 and a F12.


I'm using motherboard and QFan now (6 PWM headers), but in my previous computer I only had 2 PWM headers (one for CPU, one for System Fan) and I used one header for CPU and the other one with 2 noctua PWM splitters (NA SYC1) to use 2 intake fans and one exhaust fans. The motherboard (Gigabyte GA-Z87N-WIFI Mini ITX) had very basic fan controls built in so I was using speedfan to control the fans. Both fans were controlled by PWM, using CPU temperature as input.


----------



## aludka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> What's everyone using for PWM control? My motherboard only has one PWM header which I use for my CPU cooler, so I currently have the LNA's on my front intake fans. I have been looking for something compact that supports PWM control, but if I get one of the PWM splitters, will it matter that I have different RPM fans? In my case I have 3 A14s, a S12 and a F12.


I use one of these. I have a few of them through out the case with a pwm connection to the MOBO and powered via molex. It shouldn't matter that the fans have different rpms as the pwm signal is a percentage of max rpm. The only "issue" you may have is the reported rpm to the motherboard. The readings will jump all over the place with different rpms being reported. I solved this by removing the signal pin from all of the fans except for 1.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *czarek*
> 
> I'm using motherboard and QFan now (6 PWM headers), but in my previous computer I only had 2 PWM headers (one for CPU, one for System Fan) and I used one header for CPU and the other one with 2 noctua PWM splitters (NA SYC1) to use 2 intake fans and one exhaust fans. The motherboard (Gigabyte GA-Z87N-WIFI Mini ITX) had very basic fan controls built in so I was using speedfan to control the fans. Both fans were controlled by PWM, using CPU temperature as input.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aludka*
> 
> I use one of these. I have a few of them through out the case with a pwm connection to the MOBO and powered via molex. It shouldn't matter that the fans have different rpms as the pwm signal is a percentage of max rpm. The only "issue" you may have is the reported rpm to the motherboard. The readings will jump all over the place with different rpms being reported. I solved this by removing the signal pin from all of the fans except for 1.


So I only have one PWM header on my motherboard which I use for the CPU fan. If I get a PWM hub like that, will the motherboard still regulate the PWM signal based on CPU temperature? I had been looking at the Silverstone PWM splitter as it would would better behind my motherboard, but I just want to make sure my one PWM header isn't hindering things. A it's good to know that the PWM control is a percentage, so it's not going to overdrive a lower RPM fan.


----------



## Transmaniacon

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3856#sp

According to my motherboard information, I have 2 "system fan headers", and says under hardware monitoring "System fan control". I don't recall seeing more than the one 4-pin header, is it possible for the motherboard to control the fan speed on these specific headers?

I have my exhaust fans connected together and they seemed pretty quiet to me, but the front fans were running at full speed. Perhaps I plugged the front fans into the "power fan" header on my motherboard, and if I put them on the second "system fan" header then the motherboard will regulate their speed?


----------



## aludka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3856#sp
> 
> According to my motherboard information, I have 2 "system fan headers", and says under hardware monitoring "System fan control". I don't recall seeing more than the one 4-pin header, is it possible for the motherboard to control the fan speed on these specific headers?
> 
> I have my exhaust fans connected together and they seemed pretty quiet to me, but the front fans were running at full speed. Perhaps I plugged the front fans into the "power fan" header on my motherboard, and if I put them on the second "system fan" header then the motherboard will regulate their speed?


I've found that may motherboard makers can be a little misleading about their fan headers. Some board makers will advertise as having a ton of "PWM" fan head when in fact only the CPU header is true PWM while the rest are still 4-pin headers but are controlled via voltage. It depends on the motherboard. Depending on the motherboard it may be able to control the fan speed from the 3-pin header via voltage control.

Yes, as long as you get the PWM signal from the CPU 4-Pin PWM header on the mother board it will be controlled via PWM and based on CPU temps. If I where you I'd just pick up one of these. Plug the PWM signal cable to the CPU PWM header on the motherboard and power it via the SATA connection and you'll have 8 true pwm headers in your case. Get a whole bunch of PWM extension and/splitter cable for those hard to reach fans and you'll have enough headers and voltage to power as many fans as you need.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aludka*
> 
> I've found that may motherboard makers can be a little misleading about their fan headers. Some board makers will advertise as having a ton of "PWM" fan head when in fact only the CPU header is true PWM while the rest are still 4-pin headers but are controlled via voltage. It depends on the motherboard. Depending on the motherboard it may be able to control the fan speed from the 3-pin header via voltage control.
> 
> Yes, as long as you get the PWM signal from the CPU 4-Pin PWM header on the mother board it will be controlled via PWM and based on CPU temps. If I where you I'd just pick up one of these. Plug the PWM signal cable to the CPU PWM header on the motherboard and power it via the SATA connection and you'll have 8 true pwm headers in your case. Get a whole bunch of PWM extension and/splitter cable for those hard to reach fans and you'll have enough headers and voltage to power as many fans as you need.


Thanks I think that is the route I will take! Apparently after closer inspection once system fan header is a 4-pin, and the other is a 3-pin. I can't control the front fans which are hooked up to the 3-pin header, but the others adjust themselves according to the CPU.

Does this seem like it should work just as well? The side connections will make it easier to put behind my motherboard tray: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNW556I/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00IF6R4C8&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0GWXKYENJ2ATMKWB1QG8


----------



## haythere_uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Thanks I think that is the route I will take! Apparently after closer inspection once system fan header is a 4-pin, and the other is a 3-pin. I can't control the front fans which are hooked up to the 3-pin header, but the others adjust themselves according to the CPU.
> 
> Does this seem like it should work just as well? The side connections will make it easier to put behind my motherboard tray: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNW556I/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00IF6R4C8&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0GWXKYENJ2ATMKWB1QG8


That should work just as well as the swiftech version in theory. I have 3 of those Swiftech Splitters in my build, There don't take up much room in my 900D case


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Thanks I think that is the route I will take! Apparently after closer inspection once system fan header is a 4-pin, and the other is a 3-pin. I can't control the front fans which are hooked up to the 3-pin header, but the others adjust themselves according to the CPU.
> 
> Does this seem like it should work just as well? The side connections will make it easier to put behind my motherboard tray: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNW556I/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00IF6R4C8&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0GWXKYENJ2ATMKWB1QG8


I've used quite a few Silverstone products over the years and have no had any problems with them. That looks like a nice PWM controlled PWM fan hub.


----------



## joll

Has anyone else experienced a really high failure rate with the iPPC NF-F12 2000rpm PWM fans?

I've had a total of four of them (bought 3 plus 1 from RMA), and only two remain functional. One showed up DOA, another died after a month; the other two are functioning fine. I know it's anecdotal evidence, but considering these are their industrial quality fans, it surprised me. I'm not even going to bother RMA'ing the last one that broke (which will only be the second time I've ever not warrantied a failed product, the other holder of that dubious honor being some Corsair XMS3 ram that was defective and was replaced with new RMA ram that was also bad).

It seems even more strange to me as I've purchased and installed roughly 30 of the brown Noctuas and never had a single failure (I have RMA'd a few for developing a clicking noise, but that was quite awhile ago). Some of those fans date back to when I built my i7 860 machine, and they are still running fine!!!

I will continue to buy Noctua products, but I am going to avoid the iPPC line in the future.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

That is the first I have heard of any major issue with them. Maybe just bad luck? If it was a major issue you would think there would be some talk on the intertubes about it.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Cooler for my PFSense router finally arrived today. Just waiting on fans.









Figure since you dont see this cooler very often i would take a few pics.


----------



## Drags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Cooler for my PFSense router finally arrived today. Just waiting on fans.
> 
> Figure since you dont see this cooler very often i would take a few pics.


Router with a LGA115x board? Little overpowered, no? ^.^


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drags*
> 
> Router with a LGA115x board? Little overpowered, no? ^.^


Just a little pentium. Could have done an atom based machine, but i had the CPU already. Came out of my file server when I upgraded it.


----------



## xKrNMBoYx

NH-D15, 2x U12DX-i4, 6x NF-F12, 1x NF-A15


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've used quite a few Silverstone products over the years and have no had any problems with them. That looks like a nice PWM controlled PWM fan hub.


i have one of these sitting in y office. i think only 4 out of 8 will do pwn?


----------



## LostParticle

Hi,

I'd like your opinion on the following, please.

I own a Noctua NH-U14S (2 x NF-A15 fan setup) for a few years now and I use it when I run an open air rig with my MAXIMUS VII HERO -- system fully shown in my sig_rig. I have heard, actually it was a video from YouTube, that the NH-U14S - 2 fan setup is almost equally efficient with the NH-D15S one fan setup. Is this true?

This period I am seriously considering purchasing the NH-D15S. I will use it with two NF-A15 in an open air rig.

Do you think that it is a good idea?

Thank you.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'd like your opinion on the following, please.
> 
> I own a Noctua NH-U14S (2 x NF-A15 fan setup) for a few years now and I use it when I run an open air rig with my MAXIMUS VII HERO -- system fully shown in my sig_rig. I have heard, actually it was a video from YouTube, that the NH-U14S - 2 fan setup is almost equally efficient with the NH-D15S one fan setup. Is this true?
> 
> This period I am seriously considering purchasing the NH-D15S. I will use it with 2 NF-A15 in an open air rig.
> 
> Do you think that it is a good idea?
> 
> Thank you.


Personally i dont think so as the difference between the two isnt worth the upgrade.


----------



## bluej511

Ok so i didn't know this thread existed haha. I went from a NH-U14s to water cooling. Heres the NH-U14s in the old rig and the NF-F14 FLX.



Heres the new rig with (get ready for it lol) 3xNF-F14 FLX as intakes up top (only 1 visible in the pic ive added the extra 2 since then). Using the NF-A15 PWM off the NH-U14s as a rear exhaust fan. The bottom rad has 3 NF-S12As. Might get a couple NF-F12s for the front rad and use the ones on there now as a pull. P.S. Yes i know one fan doesnt match haha.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

PFSENSE router build. Sadly I need to swap out the CPU, thought what I had was compatible with the mobo. It's not. Back on the shelf it goes. And I will order another one instead.

As for the Noctua goodies NH-L9i cooler and a pair of NF-A8 fans for the case.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> PFSENSE router build.
> 
> ....


You should make a tutorial on how you've set it up (or link to one, if it exists)


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> You should make a tutorial on how you've set it up (or link to one, if it exists)


Still in the setup process of setting up. lol I did play around a lot with VM's to get used to it. I will mostly likely post a hardware video on my YouTube Channel.

Here is a pretty good video tutorial. It goes over what most the important things are. And dives into networking in a few. It's a good watch and is not finished yet. The rest comes from lots of forums and some trial and error. lol Not my channel BTW.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLE726R7YUJTePGvo0Zga2juUBxxFTH4Bk


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'd like your opinion on the following, please.
> 
> I own a Noctua NH-U14S (2 x NF-A15 fan setup) for a few years now and I use it when I run an open air rig with my MAXIMUS VII HERO -- system fully shown in my sig_rig. I have heard, actually it was a video from YouTube, that the NH-U14S - 2 fan setup is almost equally efficient with the NH-D15S one fan setup. Is this true?
> 
> This period I am seriously considering purchasing the NH-D15S. I will use it with two NF-A15 in an open air rig.
> 
> Do you think that it is a good idea?
> 
> Thank you.


Fine setup. What you can do to upgrade your machine is to remove the rear grill. That way the pull fan on your NH-U14S can exhaust your case. See item 2 in my sig for an example.

You can cut out the grill then line the edges with the trimmed plastic spine from a cheap report cover you buy at Staples.


----------



## doyll

@LostParticle
The NH-U14S is maybe 2c different than NH-D15 or NH-D15S. I would guess little to no noticeable differences in cooling ability. Making sure the cooler intake is getting are within a couple degrees of room temp is way more important than which of the top tier coolers we use. It is pretty normal to see 10c higher cooler intake air temps and not at all rare to see 20c when stress testing, especially if case is basically stock fan layout or cooler has hi-performance fans. You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them.

What ehume said.








Grills easily create 30-60% restriction of airflow, especially at low fan speeds. Perforated metal grills take up 20-50% of the area .. meaning they block 20-50% of the potential flow are of vent.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @LostParticle
> The NH-U14S is maybe 2c different than NH-D15 or NH-D15S. I would guess little to no noticeable differences in cooling ability. Making sure the cooler intake is getting are within a couple degrees of room temp is way more important than which of the top tier coolers we use. It is pretty normal to see 10c higher cooler intake air temps and not at all rare to see 20c when stress testing, especially if case is basically stock fan layout or cooler has hi-performance fans. You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them.
> 
> What ehume said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grills easily create 30-60% restriction of airflow, especially at low fan speeds. Perforated metal grills take up 20-50% of the area .. meaning they block 20-50% of the potential flow are of vent.


I would like to also point out that rear grills reflect air aimed at them, even when you have an exhaust fan. What doyll says about the intake temperature of a heatsink cooler is very important -- the heatsink can't cool any better then the air that feeds it. So if the exhaust of your case essentially reflects some of the air it gets, that hot air can go back around and join the air going into the heatsink. That is one of the reasons to open out the back of your case.


----------



## LostParticle

Thank you, all, guys for your suggestions! I have reconsidered though and so I won't purchase the NH-D15S after all, because as you say I do not really need it. I would just like to point out that, as I already mention in my original post, I always use my NH-U14S in an open-air rig with my Hero VII or, very-very rarely, with my SOC Force. I do this for a month or two each year and in that period I clean my chassis thoroughly, taking my time to do it. For my main setup, as shown in my sig_rig, I always use my Corsair H110.

One last question @doyll or whoever else would like to reply:

- What is the best way to clean my NH-U14S?

I remember you @doyll once suggesting to wash it with dish washer? Like to immerse it in dishwasher liquid, warm water, and then to shower it? Can you please describe exactly how should I do it? How should I wash it and dry it, afterwards..?

Non native English speaker here, thank you










@Prophet4NO1, thanks!


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thank you, all, guys for your suggestions! I have reconsidered though and so I won't purchase the NH-D15S after all, because as you say I do not really need it. I would just like to point out that, as I already mention in my original post, I always use my NH-U14S in an open-air rig with my Hero VII or, very-very rarely, with my SOC Force. I do this for a month or two each year and in that period I clean my chassis thoroughly, taking my time to do it. For my main setup, as shown in my sig_rig, I always use my Corsair H110.
> 
> One last question @doyll or whoever else would like to reply:
> 
> - What is the best way to clean my NH-U14S?
> 
> I remember you @doyll once suggesting to wash it with dish washer? Like to immerse it in dishwasher liquid, warm water, and then to shower it? Can you please describe exactly how should I do it? How should I wash it and dry it, afterwards..?
> 
> Non native English speaker here, thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Prophet4NO1, thanks!


Ive cleaned mine once, pretty sure take it off, let water run thru the fins, shake dry vigorously then let air dry for a while. You dont want a single drop dipping onto the mobo or ram slot or on the cpu.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thank you, all, guys for your suggestions! I have reconsidered though and so I won't purchase the NH-D15S after all, because as you say I do not really need it. I would just like to point out that, as I already mention in my original post, I always use my NH-U14S in an open-air rig with my Hero VII or, very-very rarely, with my SOC Force. I do this for a month or two each year and in that period I clean my chassis thoroughly, taking my time to do it. For my main setup, as shown in my sig_rig, I always use my Corsair H110.
> 
> One last question @doyll or whoever else would like to reply:
> 
> - What is the best way to clean my NH-U14S?
> 
> I remember you @doyll once suggesting to wash it with dish washer? Like to immerse it in dishwasher liquid, warm water, and then to shower it? Can you please describe exactly how should I do it? How should I wash it and dry it, afterwards..?
> 
> Non native English speaker here, thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Prophet4NO1, thanks!


I usually use a sink of hot water with dishwashing machine detergent in it. Letting it soak for awhile allows all the oils and such that collect on things over time to soak off. Slosh it around every few minutes helps

When you are sure it's all cleaned out, rinse with hot water, shake out as much as you can and set in a warm sunny place to dry. If your water is hard and you don't want any water-spots on the finish, do a final rinse with distilled water.

By hot water I mean as hot as you can keep your hand in it, not boiling hot.








I use dishwashing detergent because it has much stronger cleaning powers than normal hand washing detergent.









A fan or hair drying can be used to speed up the drying process.


----------



## LostParticle

Thank you!! I will try it after 2 days!

I have tried once (or twice) to clean it by just "showering it". This is the result:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Sorry for the "out of focus" effect..

Does anyone know, can anyone tell, what this is?

Thank you! +REP to all of you!


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thank you!! I will try it after 2 days!
> 
> I have tried once (or twice) to clean it by just "showering it". This is the result:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the "out of focus" effect..
> 
> Does anyone know, can anyone tell, what this is?
> 
> Thank you! +REP to all of you!


Thats some very hard dry water. Its why i like to shake mine off of as much water as possible. If i still had my air compressor id be using that (at low psi of course) to blow it dry. Water that sits like that ugh.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Thats some very hard dry water. Its why i like to shake mine off of as much water as possible. If i still had my air compressor id be using that (at low psi of course) to blow it dry. Water that sits like that ugh.


I see.

Well, I own this NH-U14S for quite a few years now and only once (or twice) I've used water to clean it, as I recall. I remember shaking it off a bit but, as it appears, not as much as it would be required. I also admit and plead guilty to the fact that even though I own a blower as well as a good vacuum cleaner with good blowing capability, I never used them!... Perhaps it also worths saying that I have used it after cleaning it, so in the state that it appears in the pictures, without any problems or degradation in its performance.

What surprises me a bit in this case is that I used the same method to clean the radiator of my Corsair H110, and for the entire time I had it I've not observed anything like this on the radiator. A couple of months ago this AIO has been replaced by the magnificent Corsair Service for "no reason" really, but I will keep in mind to dry thoroughly these devices from now on.

Thank you


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I see.
> 
> Well, I own this NH-U14S for quite a few years now and only once (or twice) I've used water to clean it, as I recall. I remember shaking it off a bit but, as it appears, not as much as it would be required. I also admit and plead guilty to the fact that even though I own a blower as well as a good vacuum cleaner with good blowing capability, I never used them!... Perhaps it also worths saying that I have used it after cleaning it, so in the state that it appears in the pictures, without any problems or degradation in its performance.
> 
> What surprises me a bit in this case is that I used the same method to clean the radiator of my Corsair H110, and for the entire time I had it I've not observed anything like this on the radiator. A couple of months ago this AIO has been replaced by the magnificent Corsair Service for "no reason" really, but I will keep in mind to dry thoroughly these devices from now on.
> 
> Thank you


My guess is the coating on the rad is quite a bit different then Noctuas heatsinks. My Alphacool rads are barely painted (painted and coated copper is WORSE for heat dissipation) so even on the case when i let it dry the water spots would bead right off.

My educated guess is, because the dust leaves a fine coating onto the heasink, the water just sits on top of it and dries very dirty.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I usually use a sink of hot water with dishwashing machine detergent in it. Letting it soak for awhile allows all the oils and such that collect on things over time to soak off. Slosh it around every few minutes helps
> 
> When you are sure it's all cleaned out, rinse with hot water, shake out as much as you can and set in a warm sunny place to dry. If your water is hard and you don't want any water-spots on the finish, do a final rinse with distilled water.
> 
> By hot water I mean as hot as you can keep your hand in it, not boiling hot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use dishwashing detergent because it has much stronger cleaning powers than normal hand washing detergent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fan or hair drying can be used to speed up the drying process.


Hello @doyll,

I have applied your suggestion but it did not work... I don't know why...









Specifically, I sunk my NH-U14S inside a bucket of warm water in which I have added dish washing liquid, this one. I left it for twenty minutes in total in there, while I was sloshing the cooler every five minutes for a little while. Then I washed it out with water from the shower. And finally I have rinsed distilled water on it. Right afterwards I have blew it with my vaccum cleaner, I use a Nilfisk, a very decent one, and after that I blew it with a hair dryer, as well!

The result is nearly the same as shown in the pictures I've posted earlier. This thing did not go away









- What is the problem, why didn't it go away, and what can I do further?
- Do you think that a total of twenty minutes was not enough to do the job? If so, how much time should I leave it?
- Should I use vinegar and rub it gently with an old toothbrush I have, you think? Will this cause damage to my cooler?

Finally, one comment: it has been suggested earlier that this might be the result of hard water and something about "a thin coat of dust" been dried there... I do not know about "hard water" but it seems impossible to me that any "coat of dust" was left dried on there...because the few times I have used water to clean this air cooler, the shower in my bathroom was pouring SO MUCH water on it and with such pressure that I find it unbelievable that any remains of dust have remained there! And by the way, my environment, my room, is very clean, I do not own any pets, and when this cooler was in use my chassis and my computer in overall were kept very clean, as usual!

So, is it possible that this might be something on the metal of the cooler itself?

Thank you and pardon for my English.


----------



## doyll

My bad. What you are doing isn't 'cleaning' as much as trying to remove oxidation / corrosion from the fins. Also, for 'cleaning' I usually use dish-washer machine detergent, not hand washing dish detergent.

There are several solutions made to do this, like those sold in automotive supply places to clean alloy wheels. I'm not sure which one would work best.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My bad. What you are doing isn't 'cleaning' as much as trying to remove oxidation / corrosion from the fins. Also, for 'cleaning' I usually use dish-washer machine detergent, not hand washing dish detergent.
> 
> There are several solutions made to do this, like those sold in automotive supply places to clean alloy wheels. I'm not sure which one would work best.


Aha!! I knew it!

I knew that this could NOT possibly be "some thin coat of dust", _(say what??? with so much water poured on it?!)_, been dried on there!...

Okay, thank you @doyll, my next step will be to contact Noctua Technical Support and ask them IF something can be done. Last time I've used this cooler I have not observed any kind of degradation in its performance due to this matter. I will use it again after a few days though. In an open air rig with my new thermal compound which I am expecting to receive soon: the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut! It will become clear then IF this has any effect in the cooler's performance.

When I will finally set up my system I will post my stress testing results in your "Ways to Better Cooling" thread, with a couple of pictures, as well.

Thank you, have a nice day.









PS_1 : I did not use dish washing machine detergent simply because I do not own one and thus its detergent
PS_2: I realize, of course, that this "oxidation / corrosion" is my responsibility, most probably insufficient drying from the last time I've washed it... Kind of surprising, it feels to me, that the 2 x NF-A15 fan setup I always use with this one, has not blown the remaining "drops" of water, away... Dunno................


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Aha!! I knew it!
> 
> I knew that this could NOT possibly be "some thin coat of dust", _(say what??? with so much water poured on it?!)_, been dried on there!...
> 
> Okay, thank you @doyll, my next step will be to contact Noctua Technical Support and ask them IF something can be done. Last time I've used this cooler I have not observed any kind of degradation in its performance due to this matter. I will use it again after a few days though. In an open air rig with my new thermal compound which I am expecting to receive soon: the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut! It will become clear then IF this has any effect in the cooler's performance.
> 
> When I will finally set up my system I will post my stress testing results in your "Ways to Better Cooling" thread, with a couple of pictures, as well.
> 
> Thank you, have a nice day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS_1 : I did not use dish washing machine detergent simply because I do not own one and thus its detergent
> PS_2: I realize, of course, that this "oxidation / corrosion" is my responsibility, most probably insufficient drying from the last time I've washed it... Kind of surprising, it feels to me, that the 2 x NF-A15 fan setup I always use with this one, has not blown the remaining "drops" of water, away... Dunno................


The dish soap rather than machine detergent makes sense.
Look forward to seeing your results. I have not used any of the Grizzly TIM products yet.
Do you live in a humid climate? That is usually the reason components oxidize of unprotected metals. In the future you might consider getting plated coolers, like Phanteks, Thermalright, Cryorig, etc. It makes little to no difference in performance and protects aluminum and copper from oxidation.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Aha!! I knew it!
> 
> I knew that this could NOT possibly be "some thin coat of dust", _(say what??? with so much water poured on it?!)_, been dried on there!...
> 
> Okay, thank you @doyll, my next step will be to contact Noctua Technical Support and ask them IF something can be done. Last time I've used this cooler I have not observed any kind of degradation in its performance due to this matter. I will use it again after a few days though. In an open air rig with my new thermal compound which I am expecting to receive soon: the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut! It will become clear then IF this has any effect in the cooler's performance.
> 
> When I will finally set up my system I will post my stress testing results in your "Ways to Better Cooling" thread, with a couple of pictures, as well.
> 
> Thank you, have a nice day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS_1 : I did not use dish washing machine detergent simply because I do not own one and thus its detergent
> PS_2: I realize, of course, that this "oxidation / corrosion" is my responsibility, most probably insufficient drying from the last time I've washed it... Kind of surprising, it feels to me, that the 2 x NF-A15 fan setup I always use with this one, has not blown the remaining "drops" of water, away... Dunno................


You do know that a heatsink gets quite hot right? That anything that sits on the fins pretty much bakes itself on, same with radiators that get hot enough. A combination of dust and hard water you end up with corroded aluminum fins. Corrosion happens from whatever is in the water mixing with elements and what not. Why do you think distilled water is what you use in water cooling, no impurities, no corrosion.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The dish soap rather than machine detergent makes sense.
> Look forward to seeing your results. I have not used any of the Grizzly TIM products yet.
> Do you live in a humid climate? That is usually the reason components oxidize of unprotected metals. In the future you might consider getting plated coolers, like Phanteks, Thermalright, Cryorig, etc. It makes little to no difference in performance and protects aluminum and copper from oxidation.


Yeap, I'll make sure to post the results; this will most probably take place on the next weekend because I need the current system for an important Skype call this week. I'm not sure, however, IF I will get into the trouble of installing it with Noctua's NT-H1 first, stress-test, and then repeat with the Kryonaut... We will see...

- IF I were to purchase a new Air CPU cooler today I'd most probably *get this one*.
- I've already contacted Noctua and got a ticket. I hope they will reassure me everything is OK with my cooler and that I won't need purchasing a new one.
- I really believe that it was my fault not drying it thoroughly...
- IMPORTANT: so, according to your opinion, should I use dry cleaning ONLY with this cooler? Like simply blowing the dust out of it, without ever using water?

Not sure if I should say / think this but...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



If this was Corsair I am 99% sure that they would suggest me immediate replacement of the cooler! (it has happened to me)... I don't know if Noctua can be so generous..........


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Yeap, I'll make sure to post the results; this will most probably take place on the next weekend because I need the current system for an important Skype call this week. I'm not sure, however, IF I will get into the trouble of installing it with Noctua's NT-H1 first, measure, and then with the Kryonaut... We will see...
> 
> - IF I were to purchase a new Air CPU cooler today I'd most probably *get this one*.
> - I've already contacted Noctua and got a ticket. I hope they will reassure me everything is OK with my cooler and that I won't need purchasing a new one.
> - I really believe that it was my fault not drying it thoroughly...
> - IMPORTANT: so, according to your opinion, should I use dry cleaning ONLY with this cooler? Like simply blowing the dust out of it, without ever using water?
> 
> Not sure if I should say / think this but...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If this was Corsair I am 99% sure that they would suggest me immediate replacement of the cooler! (it has happened to me)... I don't know if Noctua can be so generous..........


They wont replace something thats not fault, Corsair wouldnt do it either trust me. Its pretty much corrosion caused by hard water. Try it on a dirty pot and dont let it dry fully once it evaporates youll get nothing but hard water stains.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> You do know that a heatsink gets quite hot right? That anything that sits on the fins pretty much bakes itself on, same with radiators that get hot enough. A combination of dust and hard water you end up with corroded aluminum fins. Corrosion happens from whatever is in the water mixing with elements and what not. Why do you think distilled water is what you use in water cooling, no impurities, no corrosion.


What temperature do you consider 'quite hot' ? The heatpipes are the hottest part .. maybe 30c .. which to most of us is only 'warm' to the touch.
Fluid in heatpipes vaporized at quite low temperatures so the pipes are not at all high temperature. Combine this with the vapor condensing back into liquid in outer sections of pipes and cooling more as it is wicked back to heat source and temps are even lower.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> They wont replace something thats not fault, Corsair wouldnt do it either trust me. Its pretty much corrosion caused by hard water. Try it on a dirty pot and dont let it dry fully once it evaporates youll get nothing but hard water stains.


Comparing Noctua customer service and Corsair in same sentence is unacceptable.








Noctua support customers out of respect
Corsair does it almost totally because laws require it.









Email Noctua and they respond with helpful advice or replacements. Email Corair and you llkely will not even get a reply.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> You do know that a heatsink gets quite hot right? That anything that sits on the fins pretty much bakes itself on, same with radiators that get hot enough. A combination of dust and hard water you end up with corroded aluminum fins. Corrosion happens from whatever is in the water mixing with elements and what not. Why do you think distilled water is what you use in water cooling, no impurities, no corrosion.


Look, I do not have any reason to doubt you, challenge you, contradict you or debate with you. I believe you, if you wish!

In short, two things:

1) Yeah, a heatsink can probably get pretty hot, but in my system I never observe such high temperatures simply due to my usage. Besides stress testing when setting a new O/C, I do not stress my system almost at all, in my everyday use. Additionally, this specific Noctua cooler has 99% of the time been used in an open-air system. So, I touch the fins now and then. Not all the time but I've touched them. I have never felt anything...baking...boiling or something like that. Again, due to my usage.

2) I agree with you that my Noctua is not faulty and I have already admitted that - its current condition - is my fault. When it comes to Corsair though, here is FACT: around September 2015 Corsair has replaced my H110 due to the following "issue":


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Now, this was not an issue and my H110 was working fine with this! They HAVE INDEED offered however to replace it!

This is why I will remain Corsair's Loyal customer (and I already own three fine products from this company!)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Yeap, I'll make sure to post the results; this will most probably take place on the next weekend because I need the current system for an important Skype call this week. I'm not sure, however, IF I will get into the trouble of installing it with Noctua's NT-H1 first, measure, and then with the Kryonaut... We will see...
> 
> - IF I were to purchase a new Air CPU cooler today I'd most probably *get this one*.
> - I've already contacted Noctua and got a ticket. I hope they will reassure me everything is OK with my cooler and that I won't need purchasing a new one.
> - I really believe that it was my fault not drying it thoroughly...
> - IMPORTANT: so, according to your opinion, should I use dry cleaning ONLY with this cooler? Like simply blowing the dust out of it, without ever using water?
> 
> Not sure if I should say / think this but...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If this was Corsair I am 99% sure that they would suggest me immediate replacement of the cooler! (it has happened to me)... I don't know if Noctua can be so generous..........


I think the Olymp is a good cooler, but have not tested one yet. I do not know if the fins are plated or not.
I doubt cooling ability is compromised much, if at all.
Thorough drying is necessary.
I blow out mine maybe once a year, but I use filtered cases so not much dust gets in. Being a non-smoker in a smoke free environment there is not much in the air to collect on things.

Did Corsair give you a free replacement? If they did I'm very, very surprised.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What temperature do you consider 'quite hot' ? The heatpipes are the hottest part .. maybe 30c .. which to most of us is only 'warm' to the touch.
> Fluid in heatpipes vaporized at quite low temperatures so the pipes are not at all high temperature. Combine this with the vapor condensing back into liquid in outer sections of pipes and cooling more as it is wicked back to heat source and temps are even lower.
> 
> Comparing Noctua customer service and Corsair in same sentence is unacceptable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Noctua support customers out of respect
> Corsair does it almost totally because laws require it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Email Noctua and they respond with helpful advice or replacements. Email Corair and you llkely will not even get a reply.


Agreed not on the same level, but it gets warm enough to bake fingerprints that arent wiped before installation, ask me how i know lol.

It doesnt need to get crazy hot, yon can flush all you want with tap water and still not get it clean youll still have a microscopic layer of dust thats enough not to get it clean. Believe me if you want i detail cars for a living i know all about fine layer of dust and dirt on aluminum and hard water vs soft water vs filtered water. The fact that yours is green is hard water mixed with something else. Unless you washed it and rinsed it sliding something thru the fins all the way thru to wipe em then its not clean.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> ....
> 
> Did Corsair give you a free replacement? If they did I'm very, very surprised.


Yes, they did!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Agreed not on the same level, but it gets warm enough to bake fingerprints that arent wiped before installation, ask me how i know lol.
> 
> It doesnt need to get crazy hot, yon can flush all you want with tap water and still not get it clean youll still have a microscopic layer of dust thats enough not to get it clean. Believe me if you want i detail cars for a living i know all about fine layer of dust and dirt on aluminum and hard water vs soft water vs filtered water. The fact that yours is green is hard water mixed with something else. Unless you washed it and rinsed it sliding something thru the fins all the way thru to wipe em then its not clean.


The film on the inside of cars (windows, etc) is some of the hardest grung there is to remove (like the film in kithens, espcially ones with gas cook stoves). I also have some experience in detailing as well as commercial car wash centers. We found using distilled water final rinse leaves a spot free finish when it dries. Distilled water is so pure it draws metal from the pipes and spray nozzles, causing shortened piping ad nozzle life. Plastic components solved this problem.









The use of Trisodium phosphate (Na3PO4) will cut loose most grung films without damaging the finish, but it also removes all the oil from skin so rubber gloves need to be worn. It is commonly used in dish washing machine detergent, but is not used in hand dish washing soap because it is so damaging to hands.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Yes, they did!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse me, I am trying to upload a JPEG file (~250KB) and it is IMPOSSIBLE!!! It fails to upload! What the............???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I will try a bit later again.


I've had similar problems uploading images. Sometimes I use an image server like Photobucket.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The film on the inside of cars (windows, etc) is some of the hardest grung there is to remove (like the film in kithens, espcially ones with gas cook stoves). I also have some experience in detailing as well as commercial car wash centers. We found using distilled water final rinse leaves a spot free finish when it dries. Distilled water is so pure it draws metal from the pipes and spray nozzles, causing shortened piping ad nozzle life. Plastic components solved this problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The use of Trisodium phosphate (Na3PO4) will cut loose most grung films without damaging the finish, but it also removes all the oil from skin so rubber gloves need to be worn. It is commonly used in dish washing machine detergent, but is not used in hand dish washing soap because it is so damaging to hands.


I used to use a 2 step water filtration system so i didnt have to worry. Most times didnt even need to dry the car after washing it after polish would just run right off. You can wash a car a million times and still not get is as smooth as using a claybar. Same thing for heatsinks crud just bakes itself on. A small thin layer of dirt/dust will actually make the water bead and wont even get to the aluminum will just bead/roll right off:


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I think the Olymp is a good cooler, but have not tested one yet. I do not know if the fins are plated or not.
> I doubt cooling ability is compromised much, if at all.
> Thorough drying is necessary.
> I blow out mine maybe once a year, but I use filtered cases so not much dust gets in. Being a non-smoker in a smoke free environment there is not much in the air to collect on things.
> 
> Did Corsair give you a free replacement? If they did I'm very, very surprised.


I quote again this post of yours because only now I have managed to upload two pictures showing the "issue" for which Corsair's MAGNIFICENT Technical Support has replaced my H110 with a new one! *Check out my updated post above*.









Thanks for your other advice, as well! From all I've read + been through, so far, to this conclusion I have arrived: do NOT wash this Air cooler, just blow it with an air compressor or vacuum cleaner, maybe twice or more per year. And this is what I will do from now on.

It is a bit off topic but I feel the need to say that when it comes to my Corsair H110 rad the ONLY good method I have found to fully clean it is to wash it! Blowing it does not (seem to) clean it well enough, and anyway what I mean is that it leaves "traces of dust" (?) or something like that? I mean, you see a pattern of dust clearly visible.

So for me: blowing the Noctua, washing with water the H110.

Finally, in regard to Noctua's and Corsair's technical support services, as you refer to them in your post #2344, my personal and subjective experience is that both companies offer amazing Services but only Corsair will replace a component with such delightedness, and this is why many people trust + praise them, and this is why I became a loyal customer, as well.

Thank you


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thank you!! I will try it after 2 days!
> 
> I have tried once (or twice) to clean it by just "showering it". This is the result:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the "out of focus" effect..
> 
> Does anyone know, can anyone tell, what this is?
> 
> Thank you! +REP to all of you!
> 
> 
> 
> Thats some very hard dry water. Its why i like to shake mine off of as much water as possible. If i still had my air compressor id be using that (at low psi of course) to blow it dry. Water that sits like that ugh.
Click to expand...

It's time to send these pics to Noctua to find out what you did to it, and what, if anything, can be done about it.


----------



## Lakanman

This week I trough out five 140mm Corsair fans with white leds from my computer and installed some new fans.

3 x NF-S12A PWM 120mm in the front:










3 x NF-A14 PWM 140mm. In in the back and two in the top:


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Assembled PFSense machine. Waiting on a replacement EEPROM from Asrock before installing the OS and deploying.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lakanman*
> 
> This week I trough out five 140mm Corsair fans with white leds from my computer and installed some new fans.
> 
> 3 x NF-S12A PWM 120mm in the front:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 x NF-A14 PWM 140mm. In in the back and two in the top:


Is it just me or does the top GPU have some serious sag?


----------



## Lakanman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Is it just me or does the top GPU have some serious sag?


You have right. I saw that when i installed the card and forgot to do something about it. Thanks for the reminder.

I used the power cable to stabilize the card.


----------



## SDH500

Just found this thread after some digging around. Wanted to see if anyone else is having issues with the fans socket. My case was the NF-P12 PWM, and I have 3 fans where the ground crimp fell out of the socket, fans stopped working so my GPU's when into thermal protection. Its all fixed now but thought I would ask if anyone else experienced issues.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDH500*
> 
> Just found this thread after some digging around. Wanted to see if anyone else is having issues with the fans socket. My case was the NF-P12 PWM, and I have 3 fans where the ground crimp fell out of the socket, fans stopped working so my GPU's when into thermal protection. Its all fixed now but thought I would ask if anyone else experienced issues.


I have not. Maybe a bad batch of connectors?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> It's time to send these pics to Noctua to find out what you did to it, and what, if anything, can be done about it.


Yeah... I've already sent them, I opened a ticket, a day before your post, already...

This is their final answer:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Note: Names, e-mail address and other personal information have been removed.




I am pretty disappointed
















I don't know what caused this issue to my cooler; I never got an official answer on how (and IF) this can be fixed.









*I found this thread* on this this site. The majority of the people there say they have used water with success. I don't understand what went wrong in my case







I have washed the radiator of my Corsair H110 many times and something like this never appeared there! It bothers me that no one (from Noctua) explained what this is and how, and if, [it] can it be fixed.









I will order the NH D15S next week.

PS: the glass has broken with Noctua... I would *definitely* go for the Alpenföhn Olymp but I cannot find it anywhere in my country!...


----------



## Drags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> It bothers me that no one (from Noctua) explained what this is and how, and if, [it] can it be fixed.


And they will not - nor will any other manufacturer answer on that question as you may hold them liable if the "this is how you fix it and this is why it happened" is not to your liking or if the fixing it makes it worse or damages the cooler.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> ...
> 
> PS: the glass has broken with Noctua...


I take this back. They are awesome! And I am a loyal customer again!

Yesterday afternoon I got this e-mail:



I replied:



Earlier today I received the following:



_Personal / Private data has been removed_

AWESOME Service / Customer Care!!!
Me = Loyal Noctua Customer for LIFE (most probably)!


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I take this back. They are awesome! And I am a loyal customer again!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday afternoon I got this e-mail:
> 
> 
> 
> I replied:
> 
> 
> 
> Earlier today I received the following:
> 
> 
> 
> _Personal / Private data has been removed_
> 
> AWESOME Service / Customer Care!!!
> Me = Loyal Noctua Customer for LIFE (most probably)!


They have arrived!








Great gift!

















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## bluej511

And this proves once again how important customer service is. Ive got 3 of their fans on one of my rads and idk if its one or all 3 that hum at a certain speed so not sure if im going to contact them or just leave them as is at the speed i have it set to.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

My Finished PFSense box. This thing was a hardware headache from start to finish. lol


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> My Finished PFSense box. This thing was a hardware headache from start to finish. lol


I really like the looks of that!

I have something much bigger. Finally replaced all but the stock 200mm fan with Noctuas. Primarily NF-F12 PWM: one in front for the pump mount, 5 on top as intake to the rads, and a couple of NF-A14 PWMs acting as exhaust.

Temps are, now that I have replaced the 3 annoying Vardar 120mm fans, 6-7 degrees C better than before. Part of that is flipping to intake instead of exhuast for the 360mm rad. Oh, and the noise. I don't hear any on the tuned fan profile I setup after installing the latest NF-F12s.

The issue I had with the Vardars, besides their grindy noise, was that they would scrape the mounting bracket when run at any RPM over 20%. Super annoying, and probably damaging to the fan blades. The Noctuas have no such problem. First, it's a much better design, second, there's the anti-vibration pads which help mitigate any possibility of the same issue.

One more thing, I'm now able to get a stable 4.4 GHz on my 5930K (1.275V) without exceeding my comfort level on temps. AIDA64 stability test never exceeds 69 degrees on any of the cores. Prime95 26.6 10-minute temp test completed without any issues. I couldn't get close to that before.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> My Finished PFSense box. This thing was a hardware headache from start to finish. lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nicely done!








What are temps and noise levels?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nicely done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are temps and noise levels?


Asrock fan profile keeps all the fans under 1000 rpms, so I can't here it at all. The NF-F12 fans in my file server make a slight hum/whoosh. That is all I here if my gaming rig and game host server are shut down. Still need to change fans on both of those over at some point.

As for temps, I have not seen the CPU get over 27C yet. But I am not constantly watching it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Asrock fan profile keeps all the fans under 1000 rpms, so I can't here it at all. The NF-F12 fans in my file server make a slight hum/whoosh. That is all I here if my gaming rig and game host server are shut down. Still need to change fans on both of those over at some point.
> 
> As for temps, I have not seen the CPU get over 27C yet. But I am not constantly watching it.


Thanks


----------



## THS89

Hello.

I am looking to buy my first Noctua fan.

Can someone please help ?

I need to replace the crappy Yate Loon fan in my AX1200 PSU.

Yate Loon fan is D14BH-12 at the bottom of this page:

http://www.yateloon.com/s/en/2/product/DC-FAN-SERIES-140x140x25-38839.html

I have the following options:

Total cost including tax:

NF-A14 PWM: $30.45
NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM: $39.49
NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM: $41.75

Please advise what would be a suitable replacement fan for this PSU.


----------



## TK421

Something tells me that I'm doing my D15 wrong, temps just seems abnormal.

Ambient 31-33c, idle 38c, load 1.18v 4.2 / 1.16v 4 cache = 75-78c with fan full speed. Motherboard say cpu consumption is 170w.

I take off my case side and blow cold air using a fan, doesn't seem to help much compared to case closed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Something tells me that I'm doing my D15 wrong, temps just seems abnormal.
> 
> Ambient 31-33c, idle 38c, load 1.18v 4.2 / 1.16v 4 cache = 75-78c with fan full speed. Motherboard say cpu consumption is 170w.
> 
> I take off my case side and blow cold air using a fan, doesn't seem to help much compared to case closed.


Well, for starters your ambient is 8-10c warmer than most of us have, meaning our CPU temps are 8-10c cooler at about 65-70c compared to your 75-78c.

Would you consider 65-70c to be doing things right and good?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Well, for starters your ambient is 8-10c warmer than most of us have, meaning our CPU temps are 8-10c cooler at about 65-70c compared to your 75-78c.
> 
> Would you consider 65-70c to be doing things right and good?


Yea thats def quite warm. Case ambient might be slightly more as well maybe a couple degrees. Scary thing is though is that its at full speed, curious what cpu it has that its reporting 170w, thats quite a good amount then agian software accuracy haha.

Wonder if its poor contact or something, my nh-u14s used to do about 54°C at 1.088v. In an ambient of around 25-26


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Well, for starters your ambient is 8-10c warmer than most of us have, meaning our CPU temps are 8-10c cooler at about 65-70c compared to your 75-78c.
> 
> Would you consider 65-70c to be doing things right and good?


65-70c on current setting would be good, since I can have extra thermal headroom for OC. Currently the CPU package temp seem to be the hottest component.

It's bad yes, the ambient is quite high (but I am not sweating) :|

I just wish I can push 1.3v to try out 4.5/4.6GHz at current ambient but seems like I would have to spend more money but not fond of liquid based coolers.

Currently my temp reading from thermistor, AIDA64.

Thermistor placed at intake, between fan and hdd cage: 27c
Thermistor placed before NH-D15 first fan: 30c
Thermistor placed at the end of NH-D15 (hot air): 36c

Ambient isn't as bad as I thought, maybe I need to buy a wall thermometer.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Yea thats def quite warm. Case ambient might be slightly more as well maybe a couple degrees. Scary thing is though is that its at full speed, curious what cpu it has that its reporting 170w, thats quite a good amount then agian software accuracy haha.
> 
> Wonder if its poor contact or something, my nh-u14s used to do about 54°C at 1.088v. In an ambient of around 25-26


5820K with Kryonaut paste (Xpattern)

Though to be fair, OCCT large data set is brutal when it comes to testing stability.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> 65-70c on current setting would be good, since I can have extra thermal headroom for OC. Currently the CPU package temp seem to be the hottest component.
> 
> It's bad yes, the ambient is quite high (but I am not sweating) :|
> 
> I just wish I can push 1.3v to try out 4.5/4.6GHz at current ambient but seems like I would have to spend more money but not fond of liquid based coolers.
> 
> Currently my temp reading from thermistor, AIDA64.
> 
> Thermistor placed at intake, between fan and hdd cage: 27c
> Thermistor placed before NH-D15 first fan: 30c
> Thermistor placed at the end of NH-D15 (hot air): 36c
> 
> Ambient isn't as bad as I thought, maybe I need to buy a wall thermometer.
> 5820K with Kryonaut paste (Xpattern)
> 
> Though to be fair, OCCT large data set is brutal when it comes to testing stability.


Awesome paste, what does she get while gaming or doing any other stress test? Its why i dont use the crazy tests my cpu will never see that much work load so total waste (at least to me anyways)

I just doing an intel burn test, then leave AC Unity or Syndicate running for an hr and the temps are IDENTICAL. But for a D15 that seems quite hot.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Awesome paste, what does she get while gaming or doing any other stress test? Its why i dont use the crazy tests my cpu will never see that much work load so total waste (at least to me anyways)
> 
> I just doing an intel burn test, then leave AC Unity or Syndicate running for an hr and the temps are IDENTICAL. But for a D15 that seems quite hot.


Gaming don't get more than 70c on hottest core, but that's because the power draw is only 100w (division).

Other games don't consume as much cpu as the division.

Only aida64 can detect the thermistor sensor connected to fan extension card.
Fans connected to the fan extension card can't be read in hwinfo or aida64 or speedfan, bios only views control through (advanced -> monitor) and not through the "easy" section.





what do you guys think about this temp / hygrometer?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Size-Embedded-Wall-Digital-LCD-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Humidity-Temp-Meter-/141598883453?hash=item20f7f37e7d:g:qXoAAOSwDk5UCDRR

or is better to get non-digital?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standing-Indoor-Outdoor-Wall-Hygrometer-Humidity-Thermometer-Temperature-Meter-/391032721496?hash=item5b0b5dd058:g:gKkAAOSwmrlUvLwi


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nicely done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are temps and noise levels?


Apparently I have been getting temps from some other sensor and not the CPU. Found the option to change it in pfSense. Typical temps seen have been 40-45C. Case fans at 700rpm and CPU typically sits at 1000rpm. Noise is still silent. I have removed the NIC since it's apparently faulty. No noticeable drops in temp.


----------



## wywywywy

Just fitted a Noctua NH-L9x65 into one of my Silverstone SG13.

But my i7-3770 idles at 53c, and goes to over 80c during load.

It doesn't sound right does it?? It's barely any better than the stock cooler that I was using!

I thought it didn't sit properly so I took it off and checked, but it seemed to be fine because the compound was spread evenly so it must be sitting flat.

Any ideas?

Also tested with the case open but it didn't make a significant difference.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wywywywy*
> 
> Just fitted a Noctua NH-L9x65 into one of my Silverstone SG13.
> 
> But my i7-3770 idles at 53c, and goes to over 80c during load.
> 
> It doesn't sound right does it?? It's barely any better than the stock cooler that I was using!
> 
> I thought it didn't sit properly so I took it off and checked, but it seemed to be fine because the compound was spread evenly so it must be sitting flat.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Also tested with the case open but it didn't make a significant difference.


The Xeon in my file server caps out around 60-65C at 100% load when trans-coding video. I am sure it's a fair bit lower in clock speed. Keep in mind this cooler is not intended for high performance chips with overclocks. It's a little better than stock cooler that should be a fair bit lower in noise. I also have mine at full speed with the resistor installed. Only because the supermicro board I have in the machine has terrible fan control.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wywywywy*
> 
> Just fitted a Noctua NH-L9x65 into one of my Silverstone SG13.
> 
> But my i7-3770 idles at 53c, and goes to over 80c during load.
> 
> It doesn't sound right does it?? It's barely any better than the stock cooler that I was using!
> 
> I thought it didn't sit properly so I took it off and checked, but it seemed to be fine because the compound was spread evenly so it must be sitting flat.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Also tested with the case open but it didn't make a significant difference.


What voltage is the cpu running at? Stock? Auto?

Possibly too much TIM. Less is more. Did you use a rice-sized dot in the center of the IHS?

And what is your room temp?

And re-check the mounting process and check if there's any spare nuts or washers.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> What voltage is the cpu running at? Stock? Auto?
> 
> Possibly too much TIM. Less is more. Did you use a rice-sized dot in the center of the IHS?
> 
> And what is your room temp?
> 
> And re-check the mounting process and check if there's any spare nuts or washers.


The idle temp is always a red flag. People say idle temps dont matter but they def do. Something is def going on with either cpu voltage or just bad mounting. Just because the tim is spread doesnt mean its got good mounting pressure. And no there is no such thing as too much TIM. Think of it as tire pressure in snow. Lots of snow or little bit of snow the pressure of the tire will push everything out youll still have the exact same amount of snow under the tire. Same with the IHSthe mounting pressure of the heatsink will keep the right amount of TIM on the ihs. Liquid metals is a dif story.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wywywywy*
> 
> Just fitted a Noctua NH-L9x65 into one of my Silverstone SG13.
> 
> But my i7-3770 idles at 53c, and goes to over 80c during load.
> 
> It doesn't sound right does it?? It's barely any better than the stock cooler that I was using!
> 
> I thought it didn't sit properly so I took it off and checked, but it seemed to be fine because the compound was spread evenly so it must be sitting flat.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Also tested with the case open but it didn't make a significant difference.


Houston, we have a big problem here.

It sounds like your system is fubar'ed, but we need at least a little more info about what you have and how it's all assembled. Your problem could be cooler mount, case airflow, too much CPU voltage, cooler fan not working properly, etc. You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig helpful. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. I suggest starting with 5th topic.


----------



## wywywywy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> What voltage is the cpu running at? Stock? Auto?
> 
> Possibly too much TIM. Less is more. Did you use a rice-sized dot in the center of the IHS?
> 
> And what is your room temp?
> 
> And re-check the mounting process and check if there's any spare nuts or washers.


The CPU is stock. The 3770 is not the K version.

Yes I would say rice size, and I used a bit of flat plastic to spread it out evenly before I mount the heatsink.

It's a bit hotter than usual but the room temp is still below 30c.

I don't think it's case related because I tested with open case and a 120mm fan blow about 10cm from it.


----------



## doyll

Try turning the cooler fan over so it's pulling air up from motherboard and blowing it away instead of pushing it down into cooler. This often drops temps on these pancake coolers.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22323763


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wywywywy*
> 
> The CPU is stock. The 3770 is not the K version.
> 
> Yes I would say rice size, and I used a bit of flat plastic to spread it out evenly before I mount the heatsink.
> 
> It's a bit hotter than usual but the room temp is still below 30c.
> 
> I don't think it's case related because I tested with open case and a 120mm fan blow about 10cm from it.


Ok, what were the temps with the stock cooler?

Could you try another mount with the rice size, but without the spreading out part? Sometimes the spreading can create tiny air pockets that can hurt temps. Altho, in this case that would be a lot of pockets. Clean the ihs and cooler before the next mount tho.

Can you confirm the mounting plate is mounted correctly and tightened as far as the springs allow?

What speed is the fan reading in the bios or monitor program? In both the down and inverted position as doyll suggests. And what is the cpu voltage reading at idle in a monitor program or the bios?


----------



## wywywywy

I tightened all the mounting screws with the included screwdriver until they stop.

From observing CPU-Z, the vcore is 1.18v during load, 1.2v during turbo, 1.04v during idle.

I set min fan duty to 50% in the BIOS and it's around 1600rpm during idle, around 3000rpm during full load.


----------



## MicroCat

Everything seems normal. Except the temps.









Is this system positioned near an infrared heat source or small tabletop volcano?

Do you recall similar high idle temps with the stock cooler?

Could be a bad match between the ihs and cooler base. Or the cooler is defective and the magic vapor has leaked out. Have you contacted Noctua support? They're not as fun as OCN, but could be more helpful.


----------



## Loladinas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Is this system positioned near an infrared heat source or small tabletop volcano?


A friend of mine would complain about his computer getting hot during winter. Doesn't make sense, does it? Well it turns out he had it standing next to a radiator. Starts snowing outside, the radiator goes on and the computer gets fed air that's probably something like 40C


----------



## wywywywy

I should mention that I have another PC next to it, with the same case (SG13) and processor (i7-3770), but different motherboard. It has a Scythe Shuriken (not the big one).

And this one idles at 42c @ 900rpm, and goes up to 70c max load @ 1800rpm.

The Scythe Shuriken is supposed to be much inferior to the NH-L9x65 as well in theory.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wywywywy*
> 
> I should mention that I have another PC next to it, with the same case (SG13) and processor (i7-3770), but different motherboard. It has a Scythe Shuriken (not the big one).
> 
> And this one idles at 42c @ 900rpm, and goes up to 70c max load @ 1800rpm.
> 
> The Scythe Shuriken is supposed to be much inferior to the NH-L9x65 as well in theory.


PCs must not downclock or something guessing your voltage and clock speeds are constant. Thats quite hot for idle. Should be no more then a couple C over ambient.


----------



## wywywywy

So I just borrowed a NH-L12 to test. And the temps are still pretty much the same







And I triple checked to make sure all the screws are tight.

I'm convinced that there just isn't enough pressure of the processor. Maybe processor on this board (Intel DH67CF) is a fraction of a millimetre lower than others?

Or, however unlikely it is, the board isn't reporting the correct temp?


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wywywywy*
> 
> So I just borrowed a NH-L12 to test. And the temps are still pretty much the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I triple checked to make sure all the screws are tight.
> 
> I'm convinced that there just isn't enough pressure of the processor. Maybe processor on this board (Intel DH67CF) is a fraction of a millimetre lower than others?
> 
> Or, however unlikely it is, the board isn't reporting the correct temp?


Good troubleshooting!

Both reasonable conclusions. But, that board is not even close to be the best of its generation. It officially supported 65w TDP Core i3 and Core i5 processors, not i7 models.

And there is this little tidbit in the Intel errata:
"Using the Intel® Desktop Board DH67CF with a 95W TDP Core and the supplied standard Intel thermal solution may not meet thermal requirements if used in a mini-ITX chassis. For specific processor compatibility, please visit http://processormatch.intel.com."

Could try a BIOS update. Or swap the cpu for an i3/i5. Or replace the board with a used Asus P8Z77-I.


----------



## doyll

@wywywywy
Lots of good thoughts and possible solutions, but I would like to rule out airflow air temp first.

Could you monitor the cooler intake air temp? Then we would know just how warm the air going into cooler is. If it's 5c or less above room ambient, then we've rolled out case airflow. But it may very well be 10-20c above room, and that is 5-15c hotter than it should be, and makes CPU 5-15C hotter as well. You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig helpful. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th post is a good starting point.


----------



## wywywywy

@doyll

I've been testing with an open case and a 120mm Noctua blowing at it about 10cm away.

And yes I read many of your very well written posts yesterday.


----------



## wywywywy

@MicroCat

The i7 is only 77w and the BIOS is up to date.

I tried really hard to find an ITX 1155 board. You have no idea how hard it is nowadays







This Intel board is the best I could find, unless pay MORE than their brand new prices. I wish I had bought a load of ITX 1155 boards a few years ago as an investment









The P8Z77-I has the VRM thingy that interferes with aftermarket coolers. Not a problem for the NH-L9x65 of course, but that's why I bought it in case I can find another board.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wywywywy*
> 
> @MicroCat
> 
> The i7 is only 77w and the BIOS is up to date.
> 
> I tried really hard to find an ITX 1155 board. You have no idea how hard it is nowadays
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This Intel board is the best I could find, unless pay MORE than their brand new prices. I wish I had bought a load of ITX 1155 boards a few years ago as an investment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The P8Z77-I has the VRM thingy that interferes with aftermarket coolers. Not a problem for the NH-L9x65 of course, but that's why I bought it in case I can find another board.


VRMs on P8Z77-I do not interfere with D14/D15, Genesis, Megahalems. I've used those on that little board. Just one-at-a-time tho.

If the monitored temps are pretty much the same from the stock cooler to the U12, have to assume the board is not reporting correctly. Or there's some freakish sensors in your 3770.

Are temps in the BIOS the same as reported in your monitoring program of choice?


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *http://noctua.at/en/noctua-at-computex-2016*
> The newly designed slide-on covers for the NH-U12S, NH-D15 and NH-D15S will come in three versions (all black, all white and black with interchangeable inlays in black, white, red, yellow, green, blue) that will allow users to colour-coordinate their heatsinks with all popular build colour schemes. All versions should be available before the end of the year.


Seems Noctua is trying to compete with Cryorig/Thermalright/Phanteks/be Quiet! more on the aesthetics front

also the 120mm A series fan appears to be very much like EK Vardar / Nidec Gentle Typhoon design


Slim 140mm


----------



## Loladinas

Shame tho. I like their clunky piece of chrome aluminum look. I suppose there's always Thermalright for that. I do see how closing off sides of the finstack could be beneficial in some use cases.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loladinas*
> 
> Shame tho. I like their clunky piece of chrome aluminum look. I suppose there's always Thermalright for that. I do see how closing off sides of the finstack could be beneficial in some use cases.


You could just not use the shrouds.


----------



## shahramkel

I love Noctua! Pics of my new build. I'm impressed with these new industrial series fans, though I'm sure I'm not using them to their full ability.

Please excuse the blatant disregard for cable management


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loladinas*
> 
> Shame tho. I like their clunky piece of chrome aluminum look. I suppose there's always Thermalright for that. I do see how closing off sides of the finstack could be beneficial in some use cases.


They're optional add-ons tho for the blingers, not standard, so your default clunk is safe.


----------



## shahramkel

I don't see the appeal. I can't see the benefit of covering the heatsinks, but to some people I'm sure color-matching is very important. I like to gaze upon the non-matching beauty that is tan and *****-brown Noctua


----------



## Prophet4NO1

I use the brown fans on things i don't look at very often. Like my servers. lol But the gaming rig I pay more attention to the aesthetics. But, since that is water cooled, I the new heatsink stuff means little to me. But, I will be using only the black fans on my flashy rigs.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loladinas*
> 
> Shame tho. I like their clunky piece of chrome aluminum look. I suppose there's always Thermalright for that. I do see how closing off sides of the finstack could be beneficial in some use cases.


Actually, I did some testing with a D14 years ago and discovered closing off the sides of it made it run a degree or two hotter. With the new D15's where the fin stacks are at least as wide as the fans, I doubt this is still an issue. So closing off the sides should be OK. I haven't tried it yet, though.


----------



## doyll

Considering the airflow pattern of A14 and A15 fans (the 2 round sides) and how they have a smoother and maybe little more flow on the rounded side versus the flat sides, it only makes sense that closing in the sides can change temps.

Was it you ehume who first noticed this airflow difference? Can't remember who mentioned it and I found the same to be true.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Considering the airflow pattern of A14 and A15 fans (the 2 round sides) and how they have a smoother and maybe little more flow on the rounded side versus the flat sides, it only makes sense that closing in the sides can change temps.
> 
> Was it you ehume who first noticed this airflow difference? Can't remember who mentioned it and I found the same to be true.


Actually, I found the most difference when I tried TY-140's on the D14. Those fans have side vents that extend their side reach, so that they're 150x140mm -- wider than the D14 finstacks. If circular, they would be 140x140mm, like the Noctua P14.

A15's frames are elliptical, like the Thermalright fans. But the width of the finstacks on the D15 heatsinks is enough that the fans are not wider than the finstacks.


----------



## Chaoz

Count me in.

I recently bought:

2x NF-F12 iPPC-2000 PWM
1x NA-SAVP1 chromax.white
2x NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM
1x Noctua NF-S12B redux-1200 PWM
1x NA-SAV2 chromax.white pack

Love these fans. They push out a ton of air even at low rpm. And they look a lot better than the poop-brown/tan coloured fans. I'm a big fan









The last fan is in the back of the case because of the tubing blocking the mounting holes in the case.


----------



## viperguy212

Out of curiosity has anyone tried dying the chromax pieces? I have some red ones but their a little too light for my liking.


----------



## Aventadoor

Should I get Noctua NH-D15 or D15S? For futureproofing


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Should I get Noctua NH-D15 or D15S? For futureproofing


The offset design of the D15S offers more space by the 1st pcie slot with future motherboards. And some current ones. And you can add another A14/A15 fan if you want to chase that last 2 degrees of performance.

So the D15S is the more flexible option, it and the D15 are as future-proof as any cooler - Noctua has a great record of providing new mounting kits to existing customers.


----------



## Aventadoor

Thanks for help! A D15S it is!


----------



## AMDATI

U14S Heatsink and NF-A14 3000 RPM 140mm industrial fan.


----------



## magicmulder

NH-D15 for the CPU, 5x NF-S12A PWM for the case (3 on top, 2 on the side, front and back to follow).


----------



## shilka

Spoiler: Finished rebuilding my PC

























Added the second NF-A15 i had i could not use before due to tall RAM.


----------



## Damasterjj

I am replacing Cryorig H7 with D15S, I might need a bigger case.


----------



## XMSK

I wanted something good bit cooler new "bitfenix prodigy" case.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XMSK*
> 
> I wanted something good bit cooler new "bitfenix prodigy" case.


Good cooler. Keeps my Xeon in my file server cool even when doing long plex transcode sessions.


----------



## ikjadoon

I didn't know we had a club!







Nice. If you're still adding people, my NH-U14S would love to join. Picture in the sig.

Has anyone tried Plasti Dip of the _outside of the frame_? I'm thinking about blocking off the fan fins & rear areas. I just really want the outside to not be beige. I'm going for a white build this time and beige & brown aren't jelling.

If nobody's done it, I'll give it a shot and post up pictures later, haha.

And it looks like the A15 will never get Chromax.







I might as well just take those brown theme-clashing bits off.


----------



## AMDATI




----------



## Prophet4NO1

Interesting


----------



## ehume

Three heatpipes. Not four, not six.


----------



## doyll

I have to wonder if there is even such a thing being considered. Image looks like its computer generated rather than a real cooler.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I have to wonder if there is even such a thing being considered. Image looks like its computer generated rather than a real cooler.


Thats def a photoshop but it looks absolutely idiotic. The surface area compared to an nh-u14s has complete disappeared.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Thats def a photoshop but it looks absolutely idiotic. The surface area compared to an nh-u14s has complete disappeared.


B-b-but it's Ceramic! It's dishwasher safe and you can cook on it. CPU stew and tators! Yummm.


----------



## AMDATI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> B-b-but it's Ceramic! It's dishwasher safe and you can cook on it. CPU stew and tators! Yummm.


Don't forget corrosion resistant







And that brown/tan color scheme though! But I think it probably wouldn't perform poorly. Ceramic can be a composite as well. But I gotta say, she's much sexier in black... MSRP $30, just cause I like ya







It does have 7mm heatpipers, wonder what difference 10mm would make though.

Move over Phanteks! Daddy's coming in for a sexy landing!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDATI*
> 
> Don't forget corrosion resistant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that brown/tan color scheme though! But I think it probably wouldn't perform poorly. Ceramic can be a composite as well. But I gotta say, she's much sexier in black... MSRP $30, just cause I like ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It does have 7mm heatpipers, wonder what difference 10mm would make though.
> 
> Move over Phanteks! Daddy's coming in for a sexy landing!


Please supply some verification that this is an actual cooler in development and not some photoshop hoax.


----------



## ikjadoon

When Noctua posted this during Computex 2016, as a NH-U14S owner, I was a little bummed:
Quote:


> Due to an outstanding customer response to the chromax anti-vibration parts released at the end of last year, Noctua is now also preparing customisation accessories for heatsinks. The newly designed slide-on covers for the *NH-U12S, NH-D15 and NH-D15S* will come in three versions (all black, all white and black with interchangeable inlays in black, white, red, yellow, green, blue) that will allow users to colour-coordinate their heatsinks with all popular build colour schemes. All versions should be available before the end of the year.





But, I checked in with Noctua and they confirmed that the NH-U14S *will* be getting the new Chromax covers. They're not stunning, but they'll help colored themes. But, they still didn't haven't pricing or availability dates.


----------



## magicmulder

I'd much rather they come across with their 200mm fan already. My Cooler Master Cosmos II has a front slot waiting for it (the stock fan isn't that great).


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicmulder*
> 
> I'd much rather they come across with their 200mm fan already. My Cooler Master Cosmos II has a front slot waiting for it (the stock fan isn't that great).


This may be the reason for the wait: they are perfecting their entry.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> This may be the reason for the wait: they are perfecting their entry.


I sure hope so. We need more good 180-200mm fans.


----------



## javamocha

guys...would you believe i f i say that the AMD Wraith Cooler could outperform Noctua NH-U9S??


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> guys...would you believe i f i say that the AMD Wraith Cooler could outperform Noctua NH-U9S??


In a word, no. Could you supply a link to this comparison testing?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> guys...would you believe i f i say that the AMD Wraith Cooler could outperform Noctua NH-U9S??


Only the 9S? You realize the 9S uses a 92mm fan, right? And a Wraith uses what?


----------



## ikjadoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicmulder*
> 
> I'd much rather they come across with their 200mm fan already. My Cooler Master Cosmos II has a front slot waiting for it (the stock fan isn't that great).


Yeah, that "semi-accurate" press release said that could even be in 2017; they seem in no large rush.


----------



## javamocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> In a word, no. Could you supply a link to this comparison testing?


well, neither do i...i dont have any link whatsoever...because i'm the one who do the comparison....
i think i messed up...but on my rig...the wraith cooler in on par or better from the motherboard LED readings and from touching the HSF itself.

maybe i should redo the TIM...hmmm...any sugestion...i'm confused...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> well, neither do i...i dont have any link whatsoever...because i'm the one who do the comparison....
> i think i messed up...but on my rig...the wraith cooler in on par or better from the motherboard LED readings and from touching the HSF itself.
> 
> maybe i should redo the TIM...hmmm...any sugestion...i'm confused...


Now you've got me confused too.









What is your system?
Case, case fans & their placement, motherboard, CPU, RAM, GPU, etc. Kinda hard to help without knowing these things.


----------



## javamocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Now you've got me confused too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is your system?
> Case, case fans & their placement, motherboard, CPU, RAM, GPU, etc. Kinda hard to help without knowing these things.


case: CM Mastercase pro 5
case fans: 1x Cryorig XF 14 front; 1x Cryorig XF 14 rear.
mobo: MSI a88x-g45 gaming
ram: corsair vengeance 16 GB 2133 Mhz (but i dont know the real clock, but i set 2133 on the BIOS)
cpu: amd a10 7890K upgraded from A10 7850K (which i regret it LOL)
GPU: gigabyte r9 280x windforce

i know my system has heavy bottleneck...so don't expect anything from a newbie.
FYI..the wraith cooler could reach 36 on idle from the LED readings and when i thouch it, it's quite cool, the noctua only 38 top, mostly 40 ...with hard effort...and the fins are hotter than the Wraith at idle.
i use CM extreme Fusion as TIM.
hope that'll help...and please give sugestion to optimize my system. thanks you so much.

ps. i'm going to sleep now...i'm on the other part of the world ...


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Now you've got me confused too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is your system?
> Case, case fans & their placement, motherboard, CPU, RAM, GPU, etc. Kinda hard to help without knowing these things.
> 
> 
> 
> case: CM Mastercase pro 5
> case fans: 1x Cryorig XF 14 front; 1x Cryorig XF 14 rear.
> mobo: MSI a88x-g45 gaming
> ram: corsair vengeance 16 GB 2133 Mhz (but i dont know the real clock, but i set 2133 on the BIOS)
> cpu: amd a10 7890K upgraded from A10 7850K (which i regret it LOL)
> GPU: gigabyte r9 280x windforce
> 
> i know my system has heavy bottleneck...so don't expect anything from a newbie.
> FYI..the wraith cooler could reach 36 on idle from the LED readings and when i thouch it, it's quite cool, the noctua only 38 top, mostly 40 ...with hard effort...and the fins are hotter than the Wraith at idle.
> i use CM extreme Fusion as TIM.
> hope that'll help...and please give sugestion to optimize my system. thanks you so much.
> 
> ps. i'm going to sleep now...i'm on the other part of the world ...
Click to expand...

You have to use a consistent load, preferably software that will max out your system.

You have to measure that temps of the air going in.

You have to measure the core temps.

You subtract the ambient from the core temp, and you get the net temp.

That is what you want.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> case: CM Mastercase pro 5
> case fans: 1x Cryorig XF 14 front; 1x Cryorig XF 14 rear.
> mobo: MSI a88x-g45 gaming
> ram: corsair vengeance 16 GB 2133 Mhz (but i dont know the real clock, but i set 2133 on the BIOS)
> cpu: amd a10 7890K upgraded from A10 7850K (which i regret it LOL)
> GPU: gigabyte r9 280x windforce
> 
> i know my system has heavy bottleneck...so don't expect anything from a newbie.
> FYI..the wraith cooler could reach 36 on idle from the LED readings and when i thouch it, it's quite cool, the noctua only 38 top, mostly 40 ...with hard effort...and the fins are hotter than the Wraith at idle.
> i use CM extreme Fusion as TIM.
> hope that'll help...and please give sugestion to optimize my system. thanks you so much.
> 
> ps. i'm going to sleep now...i'm on the other part of the world ...


I'm kinda busy at the moment but will get back to you later. You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them. I suggest starting with 5th one.


----------



## javamocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> You have to use a consistent load, preferably software that will max out your system.
> You have to measure that temps of the air going in.
> You have to measure the core temps.
> You subtract the ambient from the core temp, and you get the net temp.
> That is what you want.


s***, maybe i should go use my nh-u14s then...








i don't even know how to measure all of the above...so much to learn.....


----------



## javamocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'm kinda busy at the moment but will get back to you later. You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them. I suggest starting with 5th one.


ok, i'll check it. thanks.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> case: CM Mastercase pro 5
> case fans: 1x Cryorig XF 14 front; 1x Cryorig XF 14 rear.
> mobo: MSI a88x-g45 gaming
> ram: corsair vengeance 16 GB 2133 Mhz (but i dont know the real clock, but i set 2133 on the BIOS)
> cpu: amd a10 7890K upgraded from A10 7850K (which i regret it LOL)
> GPU: gigabyte r9 280x windforce
> 
> i know my system has heavy bottleneck...so don't expect anything from a newbie.
> FYI..the wraith cooler could reach 36 on idle from the LED readings and when i thouch it, it's quite cool, the noctua only 38 top, mostly 40 ...with hard effort...and the fins are hotter than the Wraith at idle.
> i use CM extreme Fusion as TIM.
> hope that'll help...and please give sugestion to optimize my system. thanks you so much.
> 
> ps. i'm going to sleep now...i'm on the other part of the world ...


It would be best to start a thread for this discussion.
I think your cooler is okay, but there are better coolers for similar money for our application. Your case supports up to 170mm tall coolers, and NH-U9S is designed for use in small cases. Bigger coolers with bigger fans cool better with less noise, so it might be better to return it and get a bigger cooler. Also I would use at least 2x 140mm front intakes .. 3x is even better cooling. I would use both of your case fans as front intakes. This will supply the case with about twice as much air as you have now and give you better front to back flow with one intake in front of CPU cooler and other in front of GPU. Removing unused PCIe back slot covers will allow better airflow around GPU and usually helps keep GPU heated exhaust from moving up around CPU cooler.


----------



## DragonZeal

I'm going to buy some fans but can't decide which ones.

I have two systems which I'm going to equip with some Noctua.

1st System

Corsair Carbide Air 540

Front 3 x 120

P12 PWM?

Back 1x 140

A14 PWM?

2nd System

Coolermaster Stacker STC-T01

Front 4 x 120

P12 PWM?

Back 1x 120

P12 PWM?

I looked up which fan would suit best on the Noctua Homepage the P12 talks about tight fan grills

The Coolermaster has 4 4in3 modules with 4 hdd each and dust filters in front.

The Carbide Air 540 is well known so does not need any description I assume.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DragonZeal*
> 
> I'm going to buy some fans but can't decide which ones.
> 
> I have two systems which I'm going to equip with some Noctua.
> 
> 1st System
> 
> Corsair Carbide Air 540
> 
> Front 3 x 120
> 
> P12 PWM?
> 
> Back 1x 140
> 
> A14 PWM?
> 
> 2nd System
> 
> Coolermaster Stacker STC-T0
> 
> Front 4 x 120
> 
> P12 PWM?
> 
> Back 1x 120
> 
> P12 PWM?
> 
> I looked up which fan would suit best on the Noctua Homepage the P12 talks about tight fan grills
> 
> The Coolermaster has 4 4in3 modules with 4 hdd each and dust filters in front.
> 
> The Carbide Air 540 is well known so does not need any description I assume.


If you start a thread we can talk fans without hi-jacking Noctua thread. There are lots of good fans available.


----------



## javamocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> It would be best to start a thread for this discussion.
> I think your cooler is okay, but there are better coolers for similar money for our application. Your case supports up to 170mm tall coolers, and NH-U9S is designed for use in small cases. Bigger coolers with bigger fans cool better with less noise, so it might be better to return it and get a bigger cooler. Also I would use at least 2x 140mm front intakes .. 3x is even better cooling. I would use both of your case fans as front intakes. This will supply the case with about twice as much air as you have now and give you better front to back flow with one intake in front of CPU cooler and other in front of GPU. Removing unused PCIe back slot covers will allow better airflow around GPU and usually helps keep GPU heated exhaust from moving up around CPU cooler.


it's ok, i end up using my NH-14S and the temps are now cool...i have bd-drive installed...so i can't put all 3 fans in front...maybe i'll swap front cryorig fan, since it has 12 mm mounting, and the case do not support 2 140 mm fan with 120 mounting...better get a normal 140 mm fan...

thanks for your advice. meanwhile...i'm still reading your thread atm


----------



## DragonZeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you start a thread we can talk fans without hi-jacking Noctua thread. There are lots of good fans available.


Thread created here http://www.overclock.net/t/1608048/new-noctua-fans-for-2-systems


----------



## smartdroid

I'm doing a case transplant and replaced my Raijintek themis evo with a couple of Noctua NH-U14S









Right now i'm also running 3 NF-S12A PWM on the front as intake and a rear NF-A15 PWM as exhaust, thinking in adding more 4 fans to the bottom to cool my HDD's and help pressurizing the 900D., also gonna add another gpu and replace the blowers with sapphire tri-x coolers.

Don't mind the wiring this is just temporary till i get all the parts.


----------



## Chaoz

Just installed my new 2x NF-A14 iPPC-2000 PWM's in the front and 1x NF-F12 iPPC-2000 PWM in the back.

All with white Noctua Chromax rubbers. All running @1000rpm with Corsair Commander Mini.


----------



## vaoqeRG

I would really appreciate it if someone can suggest best air cooling set up for this system:

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/ydD4d6

I will be acquiring more gpus and may end up with 3/4 gpus in there that are blower-style to extract some heat out the case.

I dont know which fans to add and in which config, I am reading that the Primo comes with excellent fans, would they be enough?

I would like it be as cool and quite as possible, but if it ends up being a little noisy with excellent cooling that is fine too.

Many thanks!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaoqeRG*
> 
> I would really appreciate it if someone can suggest best air cooling set up for this system:
> 
> http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/ydD4d6
> 
> I will be acquiring more gpus and may end up with 3/4 gpus in there that are blower-style to extract some heat out the case.
> 
> I dont know which fans to add and in which config, I am reading that the Primo comes with excellent fans, would they be enough?
> 
> I would like it be as cool and quite as possible, but if it ends up being a little noisy with excellent cooling that is fine too.
> 
> Many thanks!


The stock fans in Enthoo Primo are quite good. Stick with them.

This should really be in it's own thread, not Noctua.

There is a long running thread about Phanteks cases with helpful knowledgable people. Check it out.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/0_20


----------



## ealiev60

New to the club

Noctua industrial 2000pwm Fans 3 intake and 1 exhaust, still testing different combination, 3rd intake seems to be useless, but I can feel much better air flow vs single

my specs are
CPU - i7 6700k [email protected]
GPU - MSI GTX 1060 Gaming X (replacing it with MSI GTX 1080 Sea Hawk)
RAM - Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 32Gb [email protected]
SSD - Samsung PRO 950 m.2 512gb
SSD - Samsung Evo 850 1tb
MOBO -Gigabyte Z170n Gaming5
CPU COOLER - Corsair H115i Extreme Cooling
CASE - Fractal Design Nano S
PSU - EVGA 650watt (ordered)

Can't stand how loud this guys, running around 1000rpm each, very loud fans, but doesn't seem to help with water cooling when running 2000rpm from PSU... any help?

playing CSGO for about 40 minutes and CPU gets to almost 70C, I was excepting it to be around 60s?


----------



## Chaoz

70°C is quite high, my 3930K @4.2GHz doesn't go over 60°C on AAA games with Maxed out settings. Although I do have Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut (Liquid Metal) on my CPU.

Mine run at 1500rpm on my H100i V2 and they're barely noticable, got the other iPPC's running at 1000rpm with Corsair Commander Mini and they're also not loud enough to bother me.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ealiev60*
> 
> New to the club
> 
> Noctua industrial 2000pwm Fans 3 intake and 1 exhaust, still testing different combination, 3rd intake seems to be useless, but I can feel much better air flow vs single
> 
> my specs are
> CPU - i7 6700k [email protected]
> GPU - MSI GTX 1060 Gaming X (replacing it with MSI GTX 1080 Sea Hawk)
> RAM - Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 32Gb [email protected]
> SSD - Samsung PRO 950 m.2 512gb
> SSD - Samsung Evo 850 1tb
> MOBO -Gigabyte Z170n Gaming5
> CPU COOLER - Corsair H115i Extreme Cooling
> CASE - Fractal Design Nano S
> PSU - EVGA 650watt (ordered)
> 
> Can't stand how loud this guys, running around 1000rpm each, very loud fans, but doesn't seem to help with water cooling when running 2000rpm from PSU... any help?
> 
> playing CSGO for about 40 minutes and CPU gets to almost 70C, I was excepting it to be around 60s?


Hi there

Yours temps are higher than I would expect from i7-6700k at that frequency,what vCore and how much you are running at input voltage and cache ? And what are yours ambient temperatures?
Regarding the fans,those fans should be great,but all depends on airflow of the case and yes they're on louder side

I've run H100i V2 and on my i7-5820k I've hit in GTA V and in other games around 60-65C on PKG,during rendering sessions I've hit easily 73-74C and that's with BeQuiet! Pure Wings 2 run at 1200RPM and tried too run them at full 1500RPM(they're been loud at those RPM,but not as Corsair fans),then I swapped to Noctua NH-D15 air cooler and my temps dropped by 8C on PKG and right now I can enjoy quiet PC

Not sure there what is wrong with yours,but I would have look on airflow and from this I would go,I still think with good air cooler you will be have bit better temps than Corsair there,I've tried everything there and after my Corsair H100i V2 failed I went with Noctua for now and I will be getting too Cryorig R1 Universal or Ultimate just for testing and want to compare my findings

Here is my thread regarding the H100i V2 and Noctua NH-D15

http://www.overclock.net/t/1610396/noctua-nh-d15-vs-corsair-h100i-v2-my-comparison-and-my-little-test#post_25486196

Hope this helps and good luck there

Thanks,Jura


----------



## epic1337

probable cause = cpu block not installed properly.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ealiev60*
> 
> New to the club
> 
> Noctua industrial 2000pwm Fans 3 intake and 1 exhaust, still testing different combination, 3rd intake seems to be useless, but I can feel much better air flow vs single
> 
> my specs are
> CPU - i7 6700k [email protected]
> GPU - MSI GTX 1060 Gaming X (replacing it with MSI GTX 1080 Sea Hawk)
> RAM - Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 32Gb [email protected]
> SSD - Samsung PRO 950 m.2 512gb
> SSD - Samsung Evo 850 1tb
> MOBO -Gigabyte Z170n Gaming5
> CPU COOLER - Corsair H115i Extreme Cooling
> CASE - Fractal Design Nano S
> PSU - EVGA 650watt (ordered)
> 
> Can't stand how loud this guys, running around 1000rpm each, very loud fans, but doesn't seem to help with water cooling when running 2000rpm from PSU... any help?
> 
> playing CSGO for about 40 minutes and CPU gets to almost 70C, I was excepting it to be around 60s?


What others have already said.
Honestly the H115i is no better than top air and many times louder doing it. CLC are LCLC .. Low Cost Liquid Coolers. They use low cost super low wattage pumps with super low flow rates to move coolant to low cost aluminim inefficient high density radiators that require massive amounts of airflow for low cost fans to cool them. So we end up with a CLC that costs more than a good air cooler, makes way more noise and can only cool as well.

So much for the logic in buying a CLC?









I'm seeing many CLC users coming back to air now that their original 'this is so cool to have a liquid cooler' hype wears.








About the only thing in a CLC that is similar to a real water cooling loop is the coolant, and even that is not the same.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What others have already said.
> Honestly the H115i is no better than top air and many times louder doing it. CLC are LCLC .. Low Cost Liquid Coolers. They use low cost super low wattage pumps with super low flow rates to move coolant to low cost aluminim inefficient high density radiators that require massive amounts of airflow for low cost fans to cool them. So we end up with a CLC that costs more than a good air cooler, makes way more noise and can only cool as well.
> 
> So much for the logic in buying a CLC?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm seeing many CLC users coming back to air now that their original 'this is so cool to have a liquid cooler' hype wears.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the only thing in a CLC that is similar to a real water cooling loop is the coolant, and even that is not the same.


+1

Been there and done that and must agree with what you are said,I didn't expected I will have lower temps,I wanted only to be quiet...

I done test again and tried 4.5GHz and temps are same as with H100i at 4.4GHz and at lower vCore

Thanks,Jura


----------



## ealiev60

Thank you guys, actually I will try to reinstall the pump, apply new paste and see, maybe it loose or bad contact, at this moment I don't want to spend more money, since I already spend my budget buying every component









In terms of fans, does Noctua have quieter fans but with good airflow? something around 1200-1500 full rpm


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What others have already said.
> Honestly the H115i is no better than top air and many times louder doing it. CLC are LCLC .. Low Cost Liquid Coolers. They use low cost super low wattage pumps with super low flow rates to move coolant to low cost aluminim inefficient high density radiators that require massive amounts of airflow for low cost fans to cool them. So we end up with a CLC that costs more than a good air cooler, makes way more noise and can only cool as well.
> 
> So much for the logic in buying a CLC?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm seeing many CLC users coming back to air now that their original 'this is so cool to have a liquid cooler' hype wears.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the only thing in a CLC that is similar to a real water cooling loop is the coolant, and even that is not the same.


This, and even then CPU temps won't be crazy low as youre made to believe but it will definitely be quieter with a custom loop especially if done right. My temps now in a hotter ambient temp are the same at 1.21v as my temps were on air with cooler ambient at 1.088v. So don't think water cooling is magical for a CPU, where it matters and makes the MOST difference is for GPUs, THATS IT.


----------



## duniek

hello
can some one tell me exact height in mm of nm-ibt2 bolts (for 2011 socket)



I will very apreciate for that


----------



## MasakakiKairi

I took apart the Noctua industrialPPC 3000 NF-F12
Very nice design


----------



## equinoxe3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duniek*
> 
> hello
> can some one tell me exact height in mm of nm-ibt2 bolts (for 2011 socket)
> 
> 
> 
> I will very apreciate for that


I measured one of the bolts and with the "hump" it was 6.5mm (note in the image below that my level is in 2mm steps, but I double-checked with a ruler and got the same results)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duniek*
> 
> hello
> can some one tell me exact height in mm of nm-ibt2 bolts (for 2011 socket)
> 
> 
> 
> I will very apreciate for that


If I get a chance later I'll dig out my D15 kit and do a digital caliper measurement.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If I get a chance later I'll dig out my D15 kit and do a digital caliper measurement.


If it comes with the NH-U14S i should be able to do it now.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duniek*
> 
> hello
> can some one tell me exact height in mm of nm-ibt2 bolts (for 2011 socket)
> 
> 
> 
> I will very apreciate for that


Getting 6.8mm if someone else wants to verify feel free.


----------



## doyll

I just found mine and measured thread to thread 6.9mm That is 0.1mm more or 0.0039" more than @bluej511 posted. I don't know about his calipers, but mine are not accurate enough to do any better. Also, we are assuming both of ours are exactly the same and being measured at same temperature. Anyone who has done precision machining knows it doesn't take much of a temperature change to make 0.0005" difference.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I just found mine and measured thread to thread 6.9mm That is 0.1mm more or 0.0039" more than @bluej511 posted. I don't know about his calipers, but mine are not accurate enough to do any better. Also, we are assuming both of ours are exactly the same and being measured at same temperature. Anyone who has done precision machining knows it doesn't take much of a temperature change to make 0.0005" difference.


Yea mine is definitely nothing fancy but it works real well. Ive measured it against known measurements and it was dead on.

If hes making standoffs/spacers id start at 6.9 or hell even 7mm then shave down if necessary. Doyll might have measured to the edges or his might not be machined as well as mine, theres a lot of manufacturing tolerances. So we know its 6.8-6.9 haha. Its also beveled a little bit as well.

P.S. I measured the actual standoffs without threads i think thats what he wanted haha.


----------



## TK421

@doyll Can noctua NH D15 use liquid metal thermal paste (gallium) such as grizzly conductonaut?


----------



## TheBloodEagle

It depends on the base. Since it's copper, yeah. I'm just not sure about the nickel plating. You can't use conductonaut if a heatsink base is aluminum (at least their site says so).


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBloodEagle*
> 
> It depends on the base. Since it's copper, yeah. I'm just not sure about the nickel plating. You can't use conductonaut if a heatsink base is aluminum (at least their site says so).


anyone have concrete info on whether the nh d15 is actually full copper base with nickel plating and not aluminum?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> anyone have concrete info on whether the nh d15 is actually full copper base with nickel plating and not aluminum?


Quote:


> When we flip the cooler on its back you'll see the six heat-pipe design. Copper (base and heat-pipes), aluminum (cooling fins), soldered joints & nickel plating.


Quote:


> The cooling base, very flat, not a mirror finish as we see with a lot of copper base plates these days. The base is actually made out of copper yet has nickel plating on it.


*Source*

You can always e-mail Noctua Technical Support, of course.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> anyone have concrete info on whether the nh d15 is actually full copper base with nickel plating and not aluminum?


Looks like is full copper base with nickel plating from this review

http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/noctua-nh-d15-review,4.html

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> @doyll Can noctua NH D15 use liquid metal thermal paste (gallium) such as grizzly conductonaut?


What's already been said.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What's already been said.


so its safe to use Lm right?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> so its safe to use Lm right?


Safe to use but totally pointless. You'll see maybe a couple degree temps and end up with an absolute nightmare to clean off your cooler, oh and btw it def etches into the nickel plating lol.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Safe to use but totally pointless. You'll see maybe a couple degree temps and end up with an absolute nightmare to clean off your cooler, *oh and btw it def etches into the nickel plating lol*.


well damn, I didn't know that

the only liquid metal application I use is on laptops with bare copper hsf (around 15c drop), I guess liquid metal isn't safe for anything but bare metal then?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> well damn, I didn't know that
> 
> the only liquid metal application I use is on laptops with bare copper hsf (around 15c drop), I guess liquid metal isn't safe for anything but bare metal then?


Oh its safe to use on bare die between the die and IHS, but putting it on the IHS is just pointless, you honestly won't see much temp drop if any. Even me and my one month testing of various TIMs and CLU i didn't see a single degree of temp drop. Only reason to use a LM is for durability thats it.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Oh its safe to use on bare die between the die and IHS, but putting it on the IHS is just pointless, you honestly won't see much temp drop if any. Even me and my one month testing of various TIMs and CLU i didn't see a single degree of temp drop. Only reason to use a LM is for durability thats it.


ah yes, I mean between the 5820K ihs and the heatsink

not much drop you reckon







? but on bare die and bare copper laptop it makes so much difference though :|


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> ah yes, I mean between the 5820K ihs and the heatsink
> 
> not much drop you reckon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? but on bare die and bare copper laptop it makes so much difference though :|


Well thats because laptops dont have an IHS its pretty much die and heatsink, its like if you put CLU between the ihs and bare die on a desktop CPU youll see some nice temp drops, mostly because you're eliminating the gap between the ihs and bare die and getting better contact+less clu/tim=way better temps.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> well damn, I didn't know that
> 
> the only liquid metal application I use is on laptops with bare copper hsf (around 15c drop), I guess liquid metal isn't safe for anything but bare metal then?


While i think it might give a few degrees better heat transfer, it definitely does not give anywhere near 15c difference!
I'm guessing you did not do a clean install with 'normal' TIM before changing to CLU, but instead took a laptop apart that was running hot after a few years of use, cleaned out all the dust and old cooked TIM, then replaced with CLu and 'that gave you 15c improvement.
Assuming this is what happened, it is not just a CLU improvement.








Any decent TIM would have given you 10-13c improvement.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While i think it might give a few degrees better heat transfer, it definitely does not give anywhere near 15c difference!
> I'm guessing you did not do a clean install with 'normal' TIM before changing to CLU, but instead took a laptop apart that was running hot after a few years of use, cleaned out all the dust and old cooked TIM, then replaced with CLu and 'that gave you 15c improvement.
> Assuming this is what happened, it is not just a CLU improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any decent TIM would have given you 10-13c improvement.


Yes but laptop cpus also don't have an IHS, it would be like putting clu on a die thats NOT been delided that still has the silicone gap. It def wont give you 15°C alone thats for sure, but laptops do cool differently, i do believe the pressure is also greater then on a desktop cpu. So its a possibility just unlikely.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluej511*
> 
> Yes but laptop cpus also don't have an IHS, it would be like putting clu on a die thats NOT been delided that still has the silicone gap. It def wont give you 15°C alone thats for sure, but laptops do cool differently, i do believe the pressure is also greater then on a desktop cpu. So its a possibility just unlikely.


No, because the contact is direct.








I'm not saying laptops don't cool differently, but direct die to cooler or not is really not the issue. It's the TIM heat transfer ability breaking down over time .. and of course all the dust and lint collecting in fins.









I'm not saying CLU is not a good option for laptops, just not the latest, greatest, cure-all for all that ails pie-in-the-sky. Even in best case scenarios CLU is only 3-4c better than next top 5 TIMs.

Overclocking.Guide had a total of 4.72c difference between the top 40 TIMs _*including CLU*_. Down to *3.18c for top 36 TIMs*.

I know you know, but maybe this will help people understand the TIM game a little better.



http://overclocking.guide/thermal-paste-roundup-2015-47-products-tested-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/6/

Edit: To clarify, all the testing work and graph are by Overclocking Guide. All I did was add the red vertical lines and numbers between them. I did that to show peopel how little difference there is between the major brands of TIM.

*Direct Metal to Metal, No TIM Layer In-between!*
Be careful not to apply too much TIM. *We want only enough to fill the voids in the crystalline structure of the metal where it does not give direct metal to metal contact. We do not what TIM to form a layer between the IHS and cooler base*
In case you do not know, TIM heat transfer is not even close to what good metal to metal contact is, but it is much better than what air transfers when there is no TIM in the voids created by the pores of the metal structure.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No, because the contact is direct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not saying laptops don't cool differently, but direct die to cooler or not is really not the issue. It's the TIM heat transfer ability breaking down over time .. and of course all the dust and lint collecting in fins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not saying CLU is not a good option for laptops, just not the latest, greatest, cure-all for all that ails pie-in-the-sky. Even in best case scenarios CLU is only 3-4c better than next top 5 TIMs.
> 
> Overclocking.Guide had a total of 4.72c difference between the top 40 TIMs _*including CLU*_. Down to *3.18c for top 36 TIMs*.
> 
> I know you know, but maybe this will help people understand the TIM game a little better.
> 
> 
> 
> http://overclocking.guide/thermal-paste-roundup-2015-47-products-tested-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/6/
> 
> Edit: To clarify, all the testing work and graph are by Overclocking Guide. All I did was add the red vertical lines and numbers between them. I did that to show peopel how little difference there is between the major brands of TIM.
> 
> *Direct Metal to Metal, No TIM Layer In-between!*
> Be careful not to apply too much TIM. *We want only enough to fill the voids in the crystalline structure of the metal where it does not give direct metal to metal contact. We do not what TIM to form a layer between the IHS and cooler base*
> In case you do not know, TIM heat transfer is not even close to what good metal to metal contact is, but it is much better than what air transfers when there is no TIM in the voids created by the pores of the metal structure.


So it's not worth it trying to use CLU/LM on a desktop noctua? Including the risk of the LM eating through the nickel plating.

But maybe on laptops because the cooling system is so condensed, liquid metal helps a lot?


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> No, because the contact is direct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not saying laptops don't cool differently, but direct die to cooler or not is really not the issue. It's the TIM heat transfer ability breaking down over time .. and of course all the dust and lint collecting in fins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not saying CLU is not a good option for laptops, just not the latest, greatest, cure-all for all that ails pie-in-the-sky. Even in best case scenarios CLU is only 3-4c better than next top 5 TIMs.
> 
> Overclocking.Guide had a total of 4.72c difference between the top 40 TIMs _*including CLU*_. Down to *3.18c for top 36 TIMs*.
> 
> I know you know, but maybe this will help people understand the TIM game a little better.
> 
> 
> 
> http://overclocking.guide/thermal-paste-roundup-2015-47-products-tested-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/6/


Yea seen that graph more then i can say but
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> So it's not worth it trying to use CLU/LM on a desktop noctua? Including the risk of the LM eating through the nickel plating.
> 
> But maybe on laptops because the cooling system is so condensed, liquid metal helps a lot?


Absolutely correct. Im using it running bare die and it works great because it lasts, when i used it with my IHS, the IHS started discoloring after a couple days anyways. Between the IHS and cooler just stick with TIM, it works and doesnt degrade.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> So it's not worth it trying to use CLU/LM on a desktop noctua? Including the risk of the LM eating through the nickel plating.
> 
> But maybe on laptops because the cooling system is so condensed, liquid metal helps a lot?


That's a place I haven't been and don't plan to go .. only saying I've cleaned and re-seated a far few notebooks, but have not use CLU..


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That's a place I haven't been and don't plan to go .. only saying I've cleaned and re-seated a far few notebooks, but have not use CLU..


Been using LM exclusively on laptops. Work great.


----------



## Haunebu

Add me, I've got NH-D15.


----------



## paulkemp

HI people! I just built my machine today with an i7 6700k coupled with the Noctua NH-U9S, and are getting higher than expected temps. I have not even closed the case yet, and I am seeing areound 35 degrees idle. Is this to be expected? I have not really stress tested anything yet.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkemp*
> 
> HI people! I just built my machine today with an i7 6700k coupled with the Noctua NH-U9S, and are getting higher than expected temps. I have not even closed the case yet, and I am seeing areound 35 degrees idle. Is this to be expected? I have not really stress tested anything yet.


Idle temps mean nothing. Try stress testing.


----------



## paulkemp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Idle temps mean nothing. Try stress testing.


I ran Prime95 yesterday before the post, for like 3-4 minutes and saw the high temps on the picture 64 - 67 degrees.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkemp*
> 
> I ran Prime95 yesterday before the post, for like 3-4 minutes and saw the high temps on the picture 64 - 67 degrees.


Stop using prime95. Just ran your pc all day for wtv you're using it for, gaming/folding/wtv and see what the temps get up to. Prime95 is a joke.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkemp*
> 
> HI people! I just built my machine today with an i7 6700k coupled with the Noctua NH-U9S, and are getting higher than expected temps. I have not even closed the case yet, and I am seeing areound 35 degrees idle. Is this to be expected? I have not really stress tested anything yet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkemp*
> 
> I ran Prime95 yesterday before the post, for like 3-4 minutes and saw the high temps on the picture 64 - 67 degrees.


As stated, don't use Prime. Use something like X264 stress test or just Handbrake set to use 'high' priority. Maybe use 2 sessions of Handbrake at same time. That will definitely use 100% CPU.

Component temps are highly dependent on component cooler intake air temp. With air coolers temps are almost a 1 : 1 ration beteen intake air temp and compoent temp; if intake air is 22c and CPU is 45c, if air rises to 25c CPU will be 48c .. and if air rises to 32c CPU will be cc 55c.
Running with case open does not always mean it will run cooler. When case is setup properly to supply components with cool air and remove their heated exhaust, opening it often disrupts the airflow.









You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interests. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.

If you want more help we need to know exactly what your system is and how you have the fans setup .. including fan speeds at different temps.


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> @doyll Can noctua NH D15 use liquid metal thermal paste (gallium) such as grizzly conductonaut?


The NH-D15's base plate is made from nickel plated copper, so yes you can use liquid metals.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BURGER4life*
> 
> The NH-D15's base plate is made from nickel plated copper, so yes you can use liquid metals.


I'm pretty sure you mean cooler base block, as in the big copper block the heatpipes are in that sets on top of IHS, and not the mounting cooler mounting plates.


----------



## paulkemp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interests. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.
> 
> If you want more help we need to know exactly what your system is and how you have the fans setup .. including fan speeds at different temps.


Thanks. I just built the system last night and was running with an open case so troubleshooting would be easy. Immediately in bios, I saw cpu temps of around 34 degrees and though that I might not have installed the one fan'd Noctua NH-U9S correctly. It just seemed a bit to high. Just based on nothing else than my own gut feeling. So it was more of a "is this performance to be expected" type of post.

I will troubleshoot more today and test the system with higher load and read your awesome guide if the temps go above 60 on a normal load. On a day to day basis, I seldom max out the cpu. Thanks again!


----------



## doyll

34c during boot is not uncommon. 60c full load is not bad,


----------



## Leonko

hey guys, please help me to decide. NOCTUA NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000,... PWM or nonPWM ?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> hey guys, please help me to decide. NOCTUA NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000,... PWM or nonPWM ?


http://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-industrialppc-2000-pwm


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> http://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-industrialppc-2000-pwm


can you please be more specific?







is it because min roration speed is 500 rpm ?


----------



## LostParticle

PWM is always preferable.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> can you please be more specific?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it because min roration speed is 500 rpm ?


PWM is newer technoglogy and is a better way to control fan speed. There is no heat build up like reducing voltage does to control variable voltage fans. But PWM is only good if you have PWM control.

Do keep in mind these are industrial fans, not consumer fans. They are not as quiet as consumer fans.


----------



## Therandomness

I have two NF-A8s and an NH-L12 in my rig... I'd love to go full Noctua but funds are a little lacking









Sorry for the bad image, the iPad Air 2 camera is just lacking.


----------



## TK421

I think my D15 has hit a thermal limit where it cannot maintain the 5820K below 88c, I'm pulling around 200w on 1.29v load (4.3GHz)

Not sure if bad mounting, bad paste, or genuinely a limit with the air cooler. Help?


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> I think my D15 has hit a thermal limit where it cannot maintain the 5820K below 88c, I'm pulling around 200w on 1.29v load (4.3GHz)
> 
> Not sure if bad mounting, bad paste, or genuinely a limit with the air cooler. Help?


1.29v is on the high side, thats probably one of the cause.
i've seen users manage 4.4Ghz @ ~1.28v so had you tuned your clocks properly?

D15 should be able to cool down 5820K, hell it could keep an FX9590 cool without issues.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> 1.29v is on the high side, thats probably one of the cause.
> i've seen users manage 4.4Ghz @ ~1.28v so had you tuned your clocks properly?
> 
> D15 should be able to cool down 5820K, hell it could keep an FX9590 cool without issues.


Well I set 4.3 core 1.29 vcore, but with cache 34 with +200mv

Not sure what I'm doing wrong here, but every time it hits 200w the cooler can't keep up


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Well I set 4.3 core 1.29 vcore, but with cache 34 with +200mv
> 
> Not sure what I'm doing wrong here, but every time it hits 200w the cooler can't keep up


how far can you clock cache with +0mv? cache clock hardly matters so its not an issue to lower it a bit.
cache consumes a lot of power itself, so you want as little +mv to reduce heat byproduct.

try reseating it if you don't mind, since it might fix it, sometimes theres trapped air bubbles which causes these issues.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> how far can you clock cache with +0mv? cache clock hardly matters so its not an issue to lower it a bit.
> cache consumes a lot of power itself, so you want as little +mv to reduce heat byproduct.
> 
> try reseating it if you don't mind, since it might fix it, sometimes theres trapped air bubbles which causes these issues.


I'll try to do that.

So cache left at auto?


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> I'll try to do that.
> 
> So cache left at auto?


either auto or set it to the smallest +mv value allowed, which ever results in a better temperature.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> either auto or set it to the smallest +mv value allowed, which ever results in a better temperature.


cache oc doesn't benefit much?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> I think my D15 has hit a thermal limit where it cannot maintain the 5820K below 88c, I'm pulling around 200w on 1.29v load (4.3GHz)
> 
> Not sure if bad mounting, bad paste, or genuinely a limit with the air cooler. Help?


Hi there

I'm running NH-D15 on i7-5820k with 4.5GHz OC with 1.271v on load,temps are 61-63°C under load in rendering,have run 4.6GHz with 1.31v and my temps are still reasonable in 66-68°C under load in rendering

I'm happy to show my settings when I will be at my PC

Did you check mounting of the cooler? What thermal paste are you using ?

Those temps are you seeing where or in which benchmark,assume are you not using Prime ?

Regarding yours what case do you have?

And can you please check at what RPM you are running yours NH-D15 fans at load?

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## epic1337

^ the rig is on his sig, pretty much a decent lineup.
either a messed up airflow or a messed up cooler mount, otherwise RMA the cooler?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> cache oc doesn't benefit much?


yes, specially when cache OC is holding your core clock back.

its been thoroughly reviewed in this thread here on OCN.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1411077/haswell-overclocking-guide-with-statistics/


----------



## jura11

Hi there

I've been replying through the mobile and I didn't see the specs in his signature
Regarding the his case,looks like OK,but what I've read that case have airflow issues from reports,hard to say if his case do have airflow issue,but looks like it

here are my settings and my temps

4.5GHz OC settings



4.4GHz settings



Temps under load in rendering session



Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> I'm running NH-D15 on i7-5820k with 4.5GHz OC with 1.271v on load,temps are 61-63°C under load in rendering,have run 4.6GHz with 1.31v and my temps are still reasonable in 66-68°C under load in rendering
> 
> I'm happy to show my settings when I will be at my PC
> 
> Did you check mounting of the cooler? What thermal paste are you using ?
> 
> Those temps are you seeing where or in which benchmark,assume are you not using Prime ?
> 
> Regarding yours what case do you have?
> 
> And can you please check at what RPM you are running yours NH-D15 fans at load?
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura


5820K 4.3GHz @ 1.295v/cache 34 +200mv

I mounted with the LGA2011 instruction, four screws hold down the two rentention arm and cooler screws down

Kryonaut with X-pattern, though maybe I applied just a tad too much

Phanteks Enthoo Luxe with sidepanel off

Max fanspeed

I'll take off the cache oc later on, will post full mobo setting also. Maybe good to leave cache stock and undervolt a little? Around -15mV or so.

1.295v is the lowesy voltage cpu will pass 8+ hours of OCCT without crashing.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> 5820K 4.3GHz @ 1.295v/cache 34 +200mv
> 
> I mounted with the LGA2011 instruction, four screws hold down the two rentention arm and cooler screws down
> 
> Kryonaut with X-pattern, though maybe I applied just a tad too much
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo Luxe with sidepanel off
> 
> Max fanspeed
> 
> I'll take off the cache oc later on


Hi there

Unless you are OC cache then I would run cache at auto,you don't need to put extra voltage on cache if you are not OC cache,you are running stock cache and due this I would run 1.050v at fixed voltage and I'm running my cache at 36x

On yours if yours board do have OC socket theb you can try push yours Cache to 38x or 40x and then I would run 1.15v for cache

What input voltage are you running?

I've run 1.74v for 4.4GHz,for 4.5GHz I'm running 1.94v and this has helped with stability with OC

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut I'm using too there on my NH-D15,I've used rice drop method on mine,got Gelid GC Extreme which I will be testing on mine later this or next week

But still those temps are high,although you are running bit higher voltage for 4.3GHz,I still think you should be able cool yours,just try to bench yours PC in Asus Realbench,try bench only with H.264,this should put 100% load on CPU of yours and you shouldn't see such high temps,but all depends on yours ambient temps too if ambient temps are high then hard to recommend

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## epic1337

1.295v for Vcore is definitely on the high side, specially at 4.3Ghz clocks.
usually 5820K would be able to clock to at least 4.4Ghz at that voltage.

on a side note, Vrin or Vccin can affect Vcore amount.
normally 0.5v over Vcore would suffice, e.g. 1.28Vcore = 1.78Vrin.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> Unless you are OC cache then I would run cache at auto,you don't need to put extra voltage on cache if you are not OC cache,you are running stock cache and due this I would run 1.050v at fixed voltage and I'm running my cache at 36x
> 
> On yours if yours board do have OC socket theb you can try push yours Cache to 38x or 40x and then I would run 1.15v for cache
> 
> What input voltage are you running?
> 
> I've run 1.74v for 4.4GHz,for 4.5GHz I'm running 1.94v and this has helped with stability with OC
> 
> Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut I'm using too there on my NH-D15,I've used rice drop method on mine,got Gelid GC Extreme which I will be testing on mine later this or next week
> 
> But still those temps are high,although you are running bit higher voltage for 4.3GHz,I still think you should be able cool yours,just try to bench yours PC in Asus Realbench,try bench only with H.264,this should put 100% load on CPU of yours and you shouldn't see such high temps,but all depends on yours ambient temps too if ambient temps are high then hard to recommend
> 
> I think input voltage 1.95v
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura


Ambient 23-24c.

I will try rice drop today.

How much power does your cpu pull while rendering under 70c? Occt pulls around 190w.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> 1.295v for Vcore is definitely on the high side, specially at 4.3Ghz clocks.
> usually 5820K would be able to clock to at least 4.4Ghz at that voltage.
> 
> on a side note, Vrin or Vccin can affect Vcore amount.
> normally 0.5v over Vcore would suffice, e.g. 1.28Vcore = 1.78Vrin.


Hi there

This depends on chip,some chips needs mire vCore than others,every chip is different

I would try to lower vCore and input voltage for sure and try again to bench

I know friend i7-5820k needs for 4.4GHz around 1.31v and his chip is really poor OC'er

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Ambient 23-24c.
> 
> I will try rice drop today.
> 
> How much power does your cpu pull while rendering under 70c? Occt pulls around 190w.


Hi there

Yours ambient temps are OK and not so high,I would suspect something is causing such high temps

X method I've used with GPU,not on CPU,there I use rice method mostly

Regarding the how much pulls in rendering,216.7W with 4.5Ghz,with 4.6Ghz not sure,I need to retest there

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> Yours ambient temps are OK and not so high,I would suspect something is causing such high temps
> 
> X method I've used with GPU,not on CPU,there I use rice method mostly
> 
> Regarding the how much pulls in rendering,216.7W with 4.5Ghz,with 4.6Ghz not sure,I need to retest there
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura


fans max, case open










I change cache to auto and set it to -50mv undervolt

full bios setting below


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ehume

High temps may be caused by a saggy cpu. Sometimes the center droops, and you cannot make metal-to-metal contact, only metal-TIM-metal -- the heatsink rests on the rim of the IHS.

If you previously had a convex heatsink with no pressure stop, that would do it. Noctua heatsinks refrain from convex contact surfaces. They also take pains not to exceed Intel's specified maximum pressure. A cpu can be ruined for using Noctua heatsinks and other flat coolers.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> fans max, case open
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I change cache to auto and set it to -50mv undervolt
> 
> full bios setting below
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hi there

I've tried Large Data sets like you are and I'm getting max 72C on PKG(package)

Did you tried other benchmark like is Asus RealBench ?

In rendering my temps are in 61-63C max this depends on renderer,on other hand in V-RAY temps will go up to 68C,as I said this depends on renderer if he using AVX or Intel Embree which put similar stress and heat like some benches which do use AVX

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## jura11

I would add with H100i V2 I've got with OCCT Large Data Sets my temps on PKG has been in 80's(after 30 mins I've saw there 85C)

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> High temps may be caused by a saggy cpu. Sometimes the center droops, and you cannot make metal-to-metal contact, only metal-TIM-metal -- the heatsink rests on the rim of the IHS.
> 
> If you previously had a convex heatsink with no pressure stop, that would do it. Noctua heatsinks refrain from convex contact surfaces. They also take pains not to exceed Intel's specified maximum pressure. A cpu can be ruined for using Noctua heatsinks and other flat coolers.


So you think it's an issue with the CPU IHS?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> I've tried Large Data sets like you are and I'm getting max 72C on PKG(package)
> 
> Did you tried other benchmark like is Asus RealBench ?
> 
> In rendering my temps are in 61-63C max this depends on renderer,on other hand in V-RAY temps will go up to 68C,as I said this depends on renderer if he using AVX or Intel Embree which put similar stress and heat like some benches which do use AVX
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura


ASUS realbench is much lower than this. OCCT stresses the system the hardest so far.

Do you recommend dropping any voltages on the list?

Wondering how my temps are so poor....

Also the ambient temp is recorded on that first screenshot.


----------



## epic1337

your voltages are quite a bit higher, probably because your chip is a poor overclocker?

though in particular, try lowering Vccin (CPU voltage input), how far can you lower it and remain stable?
theoretically it should be 1.85v~1.88v, lowering Vccin would lower IVR heat dissipation.

on a side note, i'm more interested in what that "Temp3" is, its registering 98c temps on both min~max, is that normal?


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> your voltages are quite a bit higher, probably because your chip is a poor overclocker?
> 
> though in particular, try lowering Vccin (CPU voltage input), how far can you lower it and remain stable?
> theoretically it should be 1.85v~1.88v, lowering Vccin would lower IVR heat dissipation.
> 
> on a side note, i'm more interested in what that "Temp3" is, its registering 98c temps on both min~max, is that normal?


not entirely sure, I had 3 x99 deluxe and they all report the same temp even in idle

cpu vccin/input voltage to 1.9?


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> not entirely sure, I had 3 x99 deluxe and they all report the same temp even in idle
> 
> cpu vccin/input voltage to 1.9?


might be a non-existent sensor then, i don't really get why they even put in a value at all, they could just give an N/A report.

yes 1.9v or lower, you currently have it set to 1.95v, but make sure that you aren't mistaking Vcore for Vccin.

theres nothing bad in lowering or tightening voltages, normally you even want it as tight as possible.
with tight voltages, unless you run into stability issues it actually helps in making the chip run cooler.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> might be a non-existent sensor then, i don't really get why they even put in a value at all, they could just give an N/A report.
> 
> yes 1.9v or lower, you currently have it set to 1.95v, but make sure that you aren't mistaking Vcore for Vccin.
> 
> theres nothing bad in lowering or tightening voltages, normally you even want it as tight as possible.
> with tight voltages, unless you run into stability issues it actually helps in making the chip run cooler.


Vcore is at 1.295v target, the same

I dropped vccin to 1.9 and system agent offset down to +0.2


----------



## epic1337

i can see some mild improvements:
CPU core = 82C -> 81C (individual cores)
CPU package = 87C -> 86C (entire die)
CPU (PECI) = 83C -> 82C
CPU = 71C -> 69C

the last entry is the IHS temp if i remember right.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> So you think it's an issue with the CPU IHS?
> ASUS realbench is much lower than this. OCCT stresses the system the hardest so far.
> 
> Do you recommend dropping any voltages on the list?
> 
> Wondering how my temps are so poor....
> 
> Also the ambient temp is recorded on that first screenshot.


Hi there

Agree OCCT and Prime will put lots of stress on CPU and create lots of heat and this will or should result in higher temps,OCCT I've tried with my previous H100i V2 and my temps has been with 4.4GHz OC in 80's after 2 minutes and with 4.5GHz this has been in high 80's or earlier 90's

Really I wouldn't use OCCT or Prime,really depends on yours workflow and works what you do,I know in rendering I will never see such high temps and in games those temps I've never seen to the date,with H100i V2 I've saw with 4.4GHz OC in games low 70's(72-74C),realBench works for me and in OCCT I need to run more vCore than in other benches too and in rendering too

Regarding the voltages what I would drop,try bench with Asus RealBench and ignore OCCT,there I need to run more vCore too,have look on my voltages,usually I'm running 1.271-1.274v for 4.5GHz and 4.6GHz I'm usually running 1.31v as max and those voltages are stable in 8-10 hours renders and sometimes I leaving to render over night and day and no crashes at all

Try to lower vCore and try to lower input voltages too and not sure if you are really need to run higher System agent as you are not OC cache or not OC the RAM at all,due this I would drop SA,Cache voltages as you are running stock

I'm running Input voltages on both at 1.94-1.95v and in my case I've never seen lower temps with lower Input voltages,in my case with higher input voltages my OC is bit stable more than with lower there

But here are my temps etc

4.5GHz OC



4.6GHz



Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## epic1337

which temps are you looking at o.o

your CPU package temps and power:
4.5Ghz | 1.290v | 74c | 139W
4.6Ghz | 1.340v | 79c | 147W

the difference here however is TK421's CPU is pulling 200W power.
4.3Ghz | 1.295v | 86c | 200W


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> which temps are you looking at o.o
> 
> your CPU package temps and power:
> 4.5Ghz 74c 139W
> 4.6Ghz 79c 147W
> 
> the difference here however is TK421's CPU is pulling 200W power.


Hi there

At 4.5GHz my pulls 217w and at 4.6GHz pulls 225w that's in SIV64

Not sure why my power is calculated differently

Please have look on SIV64,I use that as is more accurate than HWiNFO

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> At 4.5GHz my pulls 217w and at 4.6GHz pulls 225w that's in SIV64
> 
> Not sure why my power is calculated differently
> 
> Please have look on SIV64,I use that as is more accurate than HWiNFO
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura


that is total system usage, not CPU power usage.
it includes RAM, PCH and peripheral power usages.


----------



## jura11

With this motherboard ASRock I've wrong or bad readings in HWiNFO and due tjis I use SIV64 more

Hope this helps

thanks, Jura


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> that is total system usage, not CPU power usage.
> it includes RAM, PCH and peripheral power usages.


Hi there

As you can see I'm running two GPU(ZOTAC GTX 1080 AMP! with GTX TITAN X) plus I'm running 96GB DDR4 etc and still my system usage is lot lower than his
He can try SIV64 which is free
http://rh-software.com/

I'm using this SW mostly

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> that is total system usage, not CPU power usage.
> it includes RAM, PCH and peripheral power usages.


Here is better picture of all system and CPU power usage



Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> With this motherboard ASRock I've wrong or bad readings in HWiNFO and due tjis I use SIV64 more
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> thanks, Jura


Hi,

Have you tried the latest beta of HWiNFO64?
Can you please try it and compare it with SIV?

Thank you.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Have you tried the latest beta of HWiNFO64?
> Can you please try it and compare it with SIV?
> 
> Thank you.


Hi there

I will try to download and compare my tests too and post my findings

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> I will try to download and compare my tests too and post my findings
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura


Thank you!
I'll get CIV and do the same with my ASRock Z97 OC Formula.


----------



## TK421

Not sure how to use SIV but


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thank you!
> I'll get CIV and do the same with my ASRock Z97 OC Formula.


Hi there

Here is screenshot of my SIV and latest beta HWiNFO,I think there are clashes between those two programs and they report similarly if you looking at both



Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Not sure how to use SIV but


Hi there

In yours SIV CPU pulls 207w,mine during the stress pulls at 4.5GHz 217w and with 4.6GHz 225w

As you can see you have more features in SIV I do have and if you click at status you have there more readings which can be useful and if you click right click you will have more options there etc And can control NZXT or Corsair AIO pumps and fans as well









Its great monitoring SW and great tool in my case

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> Here is screenshot of my SIV and latest beta HWiNFO,I think there are clashes between those two programs and they report similarly if you looking at both
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura
> Hi there
> 
> In yours SIV CPU pulls 207w,mine during the stress pulls at 4.5GHz 217w and with 4.6GHz 225w
> 
> As you can see you have more features in SIV I do have and if you click at status you have there more readings which can be useful and if you click right click you will have more options there etc And can control NZXT or Corsair AIO pumps and fans as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its great monitoring SW and great tool in my case
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura


temp on cpu package is still kinda bad though


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> temp on cpu package is still kinda bad though


Yes agree there,yours PKG temp is high,not sure why you have such high temps with such lower voltage,looks like something is wrong there

Here is how it looks on my PC



Did you tried check everything if CPU cooler making good contact with CPU,if there is enough paste etc ?

I can see yours fans are working perfectly with no issues,only thing which can play high part is high ambient temps,can you try bench in night when temps should be lot lower etc ?

Only thing what I think can cause this higher ambient temps or bad contact of CPU cooler,because I've never seen such high temps on NH-D15 and i7-5820k,I know I've upgraded my GF i7-6700k as she run H100 too and now is running same cooler than I'm and she have pretty much awesome temps with 4.6GHz

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Yes agree there,yours PKG temp is high,not sure why you have such high temps with such lower voltage,looks like something is wrong there
> 
> Here is how it looks on my PC
> 
> 
> 
> Did you tried check everything if CPU cooler making good contact with CPU,if there is enough paste etc ?
> 
> I can see yours fans are working perfectly with no issues,only thing which can play high part is high ambient temps,can you try bench in night when temps should be lot lower etc ?
> 
> Only thing what I think can cause this higher ambient temps or bad contact of CPU cooler,because I've never seen such high temps on NH-D15 and i7-5820k,I know I've upgraded my GF i7-6700k as she run H100 too and now is running same cooler than I'm and she have pretty much awesome temps with 4.6GHz
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura


I will repaste tomorrow and check if the mounting is correct.

Use two rice grain size should be enough for the 5820K right?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> I will repaste tomorrow and check if the mounting is correct.
> 
> Use two rice grain size should be enough for the 5820K right?


I would repaste and check if mounting is correct at least you will know you everything is correct,then if this doesn't help,do you have any other CPU cooler to compare?

I know friend have same issue in past with his i7-5960x when at 1.25v he hit 86°C and with 1.3v his temps went to 100°C with NH-D15, at the end he RMA his CPU and finally his temps are right and low,at 4.3GHz with 1.3v he is hitting 68°C on PKG mostly in rendering,in benches temps are in mid 70's

I'm using single grain rice method on mine there,I will be testing on Monday Gelid GC Extreme when I will have bit more time

Good luck there and please keep up us updated

Thanks, Jura


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> I will repaste tomorrow and check if the mounting is correct.
> 
> Use two rice grain size should be enough for the 5820K right?


a bit larger than that, about the size of a watermelon seed.

rice grain works for mainstream CPUs since their IHS is small, LGA2011 CPUs are much bigger in comparison.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> I would repaste and check if mounting is correct at least you will know you everything is correct,then if this doesn't help,do you have any other CPU cooler to compare?
> 
> I know friend have same issue in past with his i7-5960x when at 1.25v he hit 86°C and with 1.3v his temps went to 100°C with NH-D15, at the end he RMA his CPU and finally his temps are right and low,at 4.3GHz with 1.3v he is hitting 68°C on PKG mostly in rendering,in benches temps are in mid 70's
> 
> I'm using single grain rice method on mine there,I will be testing on Monday Gelid GC Extreme when I will have bit more time
> 
> Good luck there and please keep up us updated
> 
> Thanks, Jura


I have an Alienware aurora premium 120mm liquid cooler, don't exactly know what clc it compares to.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> a bit larger than that, about the size of a watermelon seed.
> 
> rice grain works for mainstream CPUs since their IHS is small, LGA2011 CPUs are much bigger in comparison.


How long in CM should a line be applied in the middle of the CPU?


----------



## jura11

@TK421

I would try at least this cooler at same settings which are you right now running and you will see,you don't need to run such benchmark like OCCT but you can try at least

Regarding the what best method of applying the thermal paste,I'm using same method like I've used on other CPU like 4790k or 6700k or older X5670 and everything has worked for me

You can try above method and you will see,sometimes what working for me,not means is will work for you

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> How long in CM should a line be applied in the middle of the CPU?


depends on how thick the line is.

but the die is square, so its generally better to use a central dot instead.
this guy below put a bit too much, slightly smaller would do the trick.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> Here is screenshot of my SIV and latest beta HWiNFO,I think there are clashes between those two programs and they report similarly if you looking at both
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura


Thanks for trying it. In my system these two monitoring tools do not seem to conflict. They both show nearly the same values, independently from if they run together or each one of them, alone.

I've given some constant load, using the x264 Stability Test v2.06 (latest binaries), initially with both running, and afterwards with CIV running alone. The values are nearly the same.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








So, personally, I will stick to HWiNFO64.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thanks for trying it. In my system these two monitoring tools do not seem to conflict. They both show nearly the same values, independently from if they run together or each one of them, alone.
> 
> I've given some constant load, using the x264 Stability Test v2.06 (latest binaries), initially with both running, and afterwards with CIV running alone. The values are nearly the same.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, personally, I will stick to HWiNFO64.


Hi there

I prefer to use SIV like layout,its working for me and have good features plus I use Goverlay USB display which SIV do supports

I've tried few monitoring SW,but with SIV I've consistent temperature readings,with some others my temperature readings hasn't been best

But that's me trying few platforms like X58,Z97 or now X99 and Z170 and getting right temps are for me very important

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## jura11

Added on my NH-D15 Thermalright TY-143 fans and those fans are quieter or they sounds lot better than supplied A15 at same RPM

Temps,on idle at PKG my temps are in 34-36°C(core temps are in 23-26°C range),load temps still not tested,still I need to test that

Currently running those fans at 1250RPM on idle and they're quiet,tried run A15 to run at same RPM and they're definitely louder and temps are not the same as with TY-143

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Added on my NH-D15 Thermalright TY-143 fans and those fans are quieter or they sounds lot better than supplied A15 at same RPM
> 
> Temps,on idle at PKG my temps are in 34-36°C(core temps are in 23-26°C range),load temps still not tested,still I need to test that
> 
> Currently running those fans at 1250RPM on idle and they're quiet,tried run A15 to run at same RPM and they're definitely louder and temps are not the same as with TY-143
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura


Are temps at 1250 rpm lower or higher than A15 fans were.

Honestly I think both have near same performance at same rpm. At least that's what my testing some others I know found.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Are temps at 1250 rpm lower or higher than A15 fans were.
> 
> Honestly I think both have near same performance at same rpm. At least that's what my testing some others I know found.


Hi Doyll

I've tested both fans at same or similar ambient temperature(21°C) and at idle with A15 temps are around 1-2°C higher on PKG than with TY-143 fans,but TY-143 fans are quieter than A15 at same RPM

Currently rendering and temps are in low 60's(61-62°C on PKG) and TY-143 RPM is around 1630-1650RPM,but still they're quieter than A15 at full RPM(I've run them at 1450RPM as msx)

Tried too run TY-143 at full blast,but they're noisy at full that's for sure, I will be not running them at full

Just I need rethink again fans as exhaust fan I'm running TY-147A and not sure if I would benefit to run TY-143 too as exhaust fan or try to run with no fan?

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi Doyll
> 
> I've tested both fans at same or similar ambient temperature(21°C) and at idle with A15 temps are around 1-2°C higher on PKG than with TY-143 fans,but TY-143 fans are quieter than A15 at same RPM
> 
> Currently rendering and temps are in low 60's(61-62°C on PKG) and TY-143 RPM is around 1630-1650RPM,but still they're quieter than A15 at full RPM(I've run them at 1450RPM as msx)
> 
> Tried too run TY-143 at full blast,but they're noisy at full that's for sure, I will be not running them at full
> 
> Just I need rethink again fans as exhaust fan I'm running TY-147A and not sure if I would benefit to run TY-143 too as exhaust fan or try to run with no fan?
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


The nice thing about these fans is how nice they perform at low rpm, not how they run at crazy speed / noise levels unless you want to, but how nice they are at 550-1150rpm .. or even up to about 1700-1800rpm (maybe a little faster, maybe a little slower) without too much noise.








Glad they are working out well for you.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> I prefer to use SIV like layout,its working for me and have good features plus I use Goverlay USB display which SIV do supports
> 
> I've tried few monitoring SW,but with SIV I've consistent temperature readings,with some others my temperature readings hasn't been best
> 
> But that's me trying few platforms like X58,Z97 or now X99 and Z170 and getting right temps are for me very important
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura


I will repaste today and see what's wrong with the cooler mounting...


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The nice thing about these fans is how nice they perform at low rpm, not how they run at crazy speed / noise levels unless you want to, but how nice they are at 550-1150rpm .. or even up to about 1700-1800rpm (maybe a little faster, maybe a little slower) without too much noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad they are working out well for you.


Hi Doyll

Agree,yes I like them a lot how they perform in low RPM and still at 1100-1250RPM they're pretty much quiet and I'm thinking to replace all my Phanteks fans for TY fans,not sure if its worth,in 1650-1700RPM they're not so loud as I would think so

I'm very happy how they performing for now,will do more tests and then I will see,if I would go down the route of custom water loop or stray with NH-D15 for time being

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> I will repaste today and see what's wrong with the cooler mounting...


Those temps I'm getting with 19-20C ambient temps



I would check print of the cooler on the CPU and if you don't have air bubbles etc,because you should be have lot better temps on yours i7-5820k there

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi Doyll
> 
> Agree,yes I like them a lot how they perform in low RPM and still at 1100-1250RPM they're pretty much quiet and I'm thinking to replace all my Phanteks fans for TY fans,not sure if its worth,in 1650-1700RPM they're not so loud as I would think so
> 
> I'm very happy how they performing for now,will do more tests and then I will see,if I would go down the route of custom water loop or stray with NH-D15 for time being
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura
> Those temps I'm getting with 19-20C ambient temps
> 
> 
> 
> I would check print of the cooler on the CPU and if you don't have air bubbles etc,because you should be have lot better temps on yours i7-5820k there
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks,Jura


I reapplied the TIM in a straight line while still being conservative. I made sure that all the mounting heatsink screws are on tightly.

I also forgot to mention there is a thermistor sensor measuring the exhaust temperature of the heatsink

Old paste, I probably put on way too much here.





New paste line, keeping it slim and thin.







OCCT run


----------



## epic1337

CPU core temps dropped to 80c, and package is now 85c instead of 87c.
thats some reasonable improvements considering this is simply a straight reseat.

your current temps are acceptable, so you can either attempt to further improve upon it or leave it as it is.
one of the more simpler ways is to slowly lower and tighten your voltages until it gives you errors.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> I reapplied the TIM in a straight line while still being conservative. I made sure that all the mounting heatsink screws are on tightly.
> 
> I also forgot to mention there is a thermistor sensor measuring the exhaust temperature of the heatsink
> 
> Old paste, I probably put on way too much here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New paste line, keeping it slim and thin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OCCT run


Hi there

Those temps are still on high side, although you are running bit more vCore than I'm running,this shouldn't result in higher temperatures,other thing can come to mind is yours CPU running hotter than others,not sure if you can return the chip and get replacement.

Did you tried to turn few fans off and run test again, I've done that,sometimes too many fans can cause higher temps,in my case opened case won't result in lower temps,this only helps me when I'm rendering with GPU as GPU are close to each other(top GTX1080 max temps in rendering is around 74°C and bottom Titan X runs 48°C)

I would play with airflow and play with fans setup if this does result in lower or higher temps

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## doyll

@TK421
A couple of tricks I use cleaning TIM. I take a paper towel and cut it into about 2-2.5" squares. Straight-edge and knife work well .. or fold and then tear on edge of something with a sharp edge. I then use the squares to wipe up the TIM .. maybe fold after first wipe and make a second swipe. Then I throw that piece in the trash and use a another piece. I use alcohol to for final clean the same way. If there is any thought the TIM might get over hte edge of IHS or get on me or anything else from the small piece of paper towel, it goes in the trash. TIM is very athletic and love to job .. often surprising distances. Or like on your socket it crawls off of flat surface of IHS into other places.

Even this last application look like about 3 times as much as should be used for a good seat. TIM is for filling voids in microscopic crystalline structure of metal surface, not to used as a layer between surfaces. While TIM transfers heat way better than air, it is not even close to as good as metal to metal. Also the heat is not transfered from the entire area of IHS, but only the area close to and the CPU chip. In the image below you can see how small that is compared to total IHS.










This 'How to Apply TIM' guide might be of interest.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @TK421
> A couple of tricks I use cleaning TIM. I take a paper towel and cut it into about 2-2.5" squares. Straight-edge and knife work well .. or fold and then tear on edge of something with a sharp edge. I then use the squares to wipe up the TIM .. maybe fold after first wipe and make a second swipe. Then I throw that piece in the trash and use a another piece. I use alcohol to for final clean the same way. If there is any thought the TIM might get over hte edge of IHS or get on me or anything else from the small piece of paper towel, it goes in the trash. TIM is very athletic and love to job .. often surprising distances. Or like on your socket it crawls off of flat surface of IHS into other places.
> 
> Even this last application look like about 3 times as much as should be used for a good seat. TIM is for filling voids in microscopic crystalline structure of metal surface, not to used as a layer between surfaces. While TIM transfers heat way better than air, it is not even close to as good as metal to metal. Also the heat is not transfered from the entire area of IHS, but only the area close to and the CPU chip. In the image below you can see how small that is compared to total IHS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This 'How to Apply TIM' guide might be of interest.


Repaste with even less thermal paste then?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Just ordered a pair of A4 fans for my switch. The 40mm fans in it are not terribly loud, but very annoying tone wise. Noctua in all the things! lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Repaste with even less thermal paste then?


If you are happy leave it alone. Just keep in the info in mind for next time. I use a dob about the size of grain of rice.


----------



## GunnzAkimbo

Looks like a little baby cooler in this case:



Now, to look for a 30mm thick PWM fan to replace the original, black colour too.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunnzAkimbo*
> 
> Looks like a little baby cooler in this case:
> 
> 
> 
> Now, to look for a 30mm thick PWM fan to replace the original, black colour too.


You might want to stay with the 25-26mm thick fans. Noctua uses thick vibration dampeners on back of coolers because fans too close to fin pack make more noise.
Fans have their motor support frame on the back / exhaust side .. this spaces the fan blades away from whatever the fan is mounted on.
When fan is mounted as a pull fan there is no spacing between fan blades and what it is mounted on .. and this often causes an increase in noise.


----------



## Nafu

I second Noctua Cooler. this time Hands on NH-D15s the fierce beast. Love its build quality.



Just for first time testing, i tried installing and taken pictures. the temperatures are great indeed, however the difference i felt is nothing noticeable between U14S and D15S


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you are happy leave it alone. Just keep in the info in mind for next time. I use a dob about the size of grain of rice.


mm, might have to repaste sometime before this month then


----------



## 96accord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nafu*
> 
> I second Noctua Cooler. this time Hands on NH-D15s the fierce beast. Love its build quality.


You'd recommend the D15 ($87.95) over the D14 ($67.99) ? Extra cost worth it?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *96accord*
> 
> You'd recommend the D15 ($87.95) over the D14 ($67.99) ? Extra cost worth it?


The D15 and D14 have near identical performance with same fans, and definitely not $20 worth of difference even with stock fans.

NH-D14 is 140 x 159 x 160 mm (W x D X H) 70mm center CPU toward PCIe sockets and 66mm toward RAM
NH-D15 is 150 x 161 x 160 mm .. .. 75mm center CPU toward PCIe sockets and 67.5mm toward RAM with bottom fins cut out to clear RAM. Problem is will fan on front fit between RAM and case?
NH-D15S is 150 x 161 x 160mm .. 67mm center CPU toward PCIe sockets and 67.5mm toward RAM, same as D15 with same fan limitations.

NH-D14S is 150 x 78 x 165mm .. same 75mm center CPU toward PCIe sockets, but great RAM clearance with fan/s.

Thing is, there are many very good coolers near at the top. I would venture to say 15 that are all within 2-3c and 3-5dB of each other. Figure out which ones fit your needs and select the one you want from that group based on price and what you like the looks of.

Another thing is case airflow is at least as important as what cooler you select. If air temp going into cooler is not less than 3-5c above room ambient the system will likely run hot. Every degree warmer the air going into cooler is basically a degree warmer the CPU / GPU is going to be. So make sure your all of your system is working together or what cooler you pick may very well not keep your CPU cool.


----------



## Nafu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *96accord*
> 
> You'd recommend the D15 ($87.95) over the D14 ($67.99) ? Extra cost worth it?


For the Performance, i guess there is little to no difference. May be minor 1-2C at max. Since D15 is offering good compatibility overall when compare to D14 i would definitely go with D15..

If you're going for Dual, i would reckon D15S https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-D-Type-Premium-Cooling-NH-D15S/dp/B00XUVGLEU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1479741647&sr=1-1&keywords=noctua+d15s

full compatibility at lower price compare to D15.

In Contrary, i would prefer U14S because of Single Tower and No blockage of RAMs display. Performance is pretty good too.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nafu*
> 
> For the Performance, i guess there is little to no difference. May be minor 1-2C at max. Since D15 is offering good compatibility overall when compare to D14 i would definitely go with D15..
> If you're going for Dual, i would reckon D15S https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-D-Type-Premium-Cooling-NH-D15S/dp/B00XUVGLEU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1479741647&sr=1-1&keywords=noctua+d15s
> full compatibility at lower price compare to D15.
> 
> In Contrary, i would prefer U14S because of Single Tower and No blockage of RAMs display. Performance is pretty good too.


Not sure what your thinking is.

Many motherboard are 70mm center cpu toward PCIe socket, some even less.

NH-D15 is 75mm center CPU toward PCIe socket
NH-U14S is 75mm center CPU toward PCIe socket

This means both of them will limit what PCIe sockets can be used on many motherboards.

But the NH-D15S is only 67mm toward PCIe sockets .. and NH-D14 is only 70mm toward PCIe sockets.

RAM clearance is an issue only because many RAM have fancy foo-foo pieces of rubbish on them that are tall and won't fit under coolers. But like I just said, it's all fancy foo-foo. Modern RAM does not need heatsinks. So there is no reason for the foo-foo heat spreaders.

Buy RAM that is less than 40mm tall and it will fit under most all coolers.

The official PCB sizes for DDR3 and DDR4 RAM PCB are 133.35 mm long x 30 mm tall and 31.35 mm tall.
Top of CPU is 5 mm above bottom of RAM.
CPU cooler base to bottom of fins plus 5 mm is how tall RAM can be and fit under cooler fins.
Case CPU clearance plus 5 mm minus RAM height is how much room there is between RAM and case for cooler fan to fit.

Here is drawing to explain the clearnaces.


----------



## jura11

Here are pictures of the NH-D15 with TY-143 fans





Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## MicroCat

Thanks for hurting my eyes, Jura. In future when you take pictures of the TY-143, please ensure the case side is on and a big orange-spectrum-proof blanket thrown over the rig. While the extra performance of the 2500rpm TY-143 can be annoying to the ears, still do not understand why Thermalright must punish the eyes as well. At least they pay you to use these fans, right?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Thanks for hurting my eyes, Jura. In future when you take pictures of the TY-143, please ensure the case side is on and a big orange-spectrum-proof blanket thrown over the rig. While the extra performance of the 2500rpm TY-143 can be annoying to the ears, still do not understand why Thermalright must punish the eyes as well. At least they pay you to use these fans, right?


Hi there

Personally I like those fans,probably I'm here alone, I don't like LED or RGB fans and agree this colour of those fans will people divide to two camps

I'm running those fans at 1200-1500RPM as max, if I need I will ramp up them up to 2500RPM which is very rare, but for now I'm happy

NH-D15 supplied fans are OK,but I didn't like it their sound characteristics at 1200-1450RPM range

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> Personally I like those fans,probably I'm here alone, I don't like LED or RGB fans and agree this colour of those fans will people divide to two camps
> 
> I'm running those fans at 1200-1500RPM as max, if I need I will ramp up them up to 2500RPM which is very rare, but for now I'm happy
> 
> NH-D15 supplied fans are OK,but I didn't like it their sound characteristics at 1200-1450RPM range
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


As long as you're happy and your optician is happy, and your case colour uncoordinater is happy, then I'm happy. ;-)

If I needed faster than 1200 rpm 140mm fans I would selected other visually and audibly quieter fans. Fortunately, my OC'd 5675 rig with a D15 peaks at 60c under full load with the A15s rarely spinning beyond 1200rpm, so I've never had to make that difficult choice.


----------



## MathKiller

In club.
Input: NZXT 200mm + Noctua A14 PWM x 2
Output: NZXT 200mm x 2 + Noctua 1 x A14 PWM
CPU: Noctua D15

Waiting for a 200mm Noctua fan) But NZXT fans are good.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MathKiller*
> 
> 
> In club.
> Input: NZXT 200mm + Noctua A14 PWM x 2
> Output: NZXT 200mm x 2 + Noctua 1 x A14 PWM
> CPU: Noctua D15
> 
> Waiting for a 200mm Noctua fan) But NZXT fans are good.


Very nice looking build! Good cable management and clean.
You might get lower CPU temps with at last the front top exhaust fan unplugged and removing unused PCIe back slot covers. This will likely give more front to back airflow and help stop bottom to top flow of heated air coming out of GPU and mixing with cool air going toward CPU cooler.


----------



## MathKiller

-


----------



## MathKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Very nice looking build! Good cable management and clean.
> You might get lower CPU temps with at last the front top exhaust fan unplugged and removing unused PCIe back slot covers. This will likely give more front to back airflow and help stop bottom to top flow of heated air coming out of GPU and mixing with cool air going toward CPU cooler.


When i play StarCraft 2 at max settings at 4k - cpu temp is not more 41-43C sometime lower than 40C, and fans are automatically at 450-500 mm for 140 mm, and 400 rpm for 200mm, and some time rpms lowing to default 230 rpm/300 rpm as idle mode. Most time GTX 1080 working at passive mode.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MathKiller*
> 
> When i play StarCraft 2 at max settings at 4k - cpu temp is not more 41-43C sometime lower than 40C, and fans are automatically at 450-500 mm for 140 mm, and 400 rpm for 200mm, and some time rpms lowing to default 230 rpm/300 rpm as idle mode. Most time GTX 1080 working at passive mode.


Sounds like neither CPU or GPU are doing much work.
What is CPU idle temp when doing nothing or just surfing web?
Regadless, your temps are fine.


----------



## MathKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sounds like neither CPU or GPU are doing much work.
> What is CPU idle temp when doing nothing or just surfing web?
> Regadless, your temps are fine.


Nothing do/surfing:
i7-4790K @4600Mhz
C states off
CPU 33C
PCH 48C
Motherboard 23C
Room temp 21C
CPU Fans/140 case fans 230-250 rpm
200 case fans 320-340 rpm

P.S. Side panel of the case i removed. Case is always open.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MathKiller*
> 
> Nothing do/surfing:
> i7-4790K @4600Mhz
> C states off
> CPU 33C
> PCH 48C
> Motherboard 23C
> Room temp 21C
> CPU Fans/140 case fans 230-250 rpm
> 200 case fans 320-340 rpm
> 
> P.S. Side panel of the case i removed. Case is always open.


Looks good!


----------



## VladimirAG

Hi,
for Alphacool Monsta 480 (80mm thikness) will be enough:

1. 4x NF-F12 IndustrialPPC 450-2000rpm (IP52) _*push_
2. 8x NF-F12 IndustrialPPC 450-2000rpm (IP52) _*push-pull_
3. 4x NF-F12 IndustrialPPC 750-3000rpm (IP52) _*push_

&#8230;need silence and performance.

PS1: i5-4670k + MSI 770 Lightning overclocked. In future 770 > 1070 from Palit GameRock Premium, I hope








PS2: will be connected to the Mobo (MSI Z97M Gaming).
PS3: case - Thermaltake P5.

Thank's for answer.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

4 2000 in push would be best for noise. Push/pull usually makes more noise.


----------



## Stoned78

Here is a D15 on an Asus z170 itx board in a phanteks evolv itx case with an extra fan added.
its tight... notice the 3fan on left is mounted on case but fits just perfect against the cooler.

if i turn that 3rd fan to full speed along with all the others it will make a high hz sound


----------



## Darknessrise13

Can anyone with a iPPC NF-F12 2000rpm IP52 or IP67 run their fan at 0% 10% and 20% pwm duty and tell me the rpms? I'm looking at replacing my alienware's fans and the bios fan curve is untouchable and terrible, even if you use AWCC in windows. Which is also terrible. XD


----------



## MicroCat

@ehume can. And did. Check his Noctua 24V fans tests here.

The NF-F12 iPPC 24V 2000 IP67 went down to 123rpm on a 12V 14% PWM signal - 193rpm at 20%. The NF-F12 iPPC 24V 3000 IP67 model went down to 431rpm at 20%. Note: the peak rpm of these 24V models are roughly half the speed at 12V. Which is a good thing for a lower noise floor. And noise ceiling for that matter.


----------



## Darknessrise13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> @ehume can. And did. Check his Noctua 24V fans tests here.
> 
> The NF-F12 iPPC 24V 2000 IP67 went down to 123rpm on a 12V 14% PWM signal - 193rpm at 20%. The NF-F12 iPPC 24V 3000 IP67 model went down to 431rpm at 20%. Note: the peak rpm of these 24V models are roughly half the speed at 12V. Which is a good thing for a lower noise floor. And noise ceiling for that matter.


Will the 12v models be running at those RPMs or higher? I've got my eyes on a 12v model for a really good price but I need to know it won't run so low my radiator will basically be passive.


----------



## MicroCat

The 12V models will run at the posted speeds of 2000rpm and 3000rpm... but if you haven't heard the 3000rpm at full speed, you really don't want to. If the rad requires high speed fans, have you considered using high speed GTs or Vardars? They offer a better compromise between performance and noise.


----------



## Darknessrise13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> The 12V models will run at the posted speeds of 2000rpm and 3000rpm... but if you haven't heard the 3000rpm at full speed, you really don't want to. If the rad requires high speed fans, have you considered using high speed GTs or Vardars? They offer a better compromise between performance and noise.


I don't mean at max. I'd never be running max, I'd be running 30% fan at absolute most. The default fan curve on this alienware is really odd and starts at 0%, then 10% typically highest it reaches unless I'm using a fan that doesn't run til 15%, it'll hit 20% then.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darknessrise13*
> 
> I don't mean at max. I'd never be running max, I'd be running 30% fan at absolute most. The default fan curve on this alienware is really odd and starts at 0%, then 10% typically highest it reaches unless I'm using a fan that doesn't run til 15%, it'll hit 20% then.


Ok. Understand. Sort of. The beauty of PWM is the alleged control it gives the user. Guess alienware didn't get the memo.

There's a full PWM response chart from the Thermalbench iPPC 3000 test

And for the 2000rpm version at Thermalbench

If I'm understanding your description of the alien pwm response, it maxes out at 20%? If so, I'd be tempted to bypass it completely, get a simple voltage controller and some 3 pin GTs or get an Aquaero PWM controller and PWM fans of your choice.


----------



## Darknessrise13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Ok. Understand. Sort of. The beauty of PWM is the alleged control it gives the user. Guess alienware didn't get the memo.
> 
> There's a full PWM response chart from the Thermalbench iPPC 3000 test
> 
> And for the 2000rpm version at Thermalbench
> 
> If I'm understanding your description of the alien pwm response, it maxes out at 20%? If so, I'd be tempted to bypass it completely, get a simple voltage controller and some 3 pin GTs or get an Aquaero PWM controller and PWM fans of your choice.


Yeah they let you control it with their command center app but it doesn't save to the bios level so a standard NF-F12 will not run and it halts the boot because the fan is detected as dead. The standard curve runs 0% to 65c then it ramps to ~10% til 75c. The stock fan runs up to 4000rpm and 1100rpm at 0% pwm. It's very weird.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darknessrise13*
> 
> Yeah they let you control it with their command center app but it doesn't save to the bios level so a standard NF-F12 will not run and it halts the boot because the fan is detected as dead. The standard curve runs 0% to 65c then it ramps to ~10% til 75c. The stock fan runs up to 4000rpm and 1100rpm at 0% pwm. It's very weird.


4000rpm 120mm fans in a device meant for domestic use? That's certainly very alien. I'd just setup my own fan control system - or just use some low rpm (<1000rpm) 3pin fans running at full speed.


----------



## Darknessrise13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> 4000rpm 120mm fans in a device meant for domestic use? That's certainly very alien. I'd just setup my own fan control system - or just use some low rpm (<1000rpm) 3pin fans running at full speed.


Yeah my current intention is to run a F12 on voltage control and a S12A on a voltage resistor.


----------



## VS88

Hello, are these enough to join the club? 1x Noctua NF-S12B redux 1200, 1x Noctua NF-A9x14 PWM, plus 1x Noctua NF-R8 redux will arrive soon. Photos in sig.


----------



## Transmaniacon

I've got a question for you guys on a potential future build. Considering moving to ITX when Zen gets here, and would like to build in the Fractal Nano S.

I could move my two A14s to front intake on the Nano, but given the close proximity of the GPU to the PSU, would I be better suited with a F12 in that front lower slot?

It would give me a good bit more static pressure aimed right at the video card, but I would have less CFM obviously. Wondering if anyone has any input here while I'm in the planing stages.

The rest of the build would be a U12S with F12 fan, dual A14 in the front, and a S12 rear exhaust. I plan to keep the top moduvent on for quieter operation.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> I've got a question for you guys on a potential future build. Considering moving to ITX when Zen gets here, and would like to build in the Fractal Nano S.
> 
> I could move my two A14s to front intake on the Nano, but given the close proximity of the GPU to the PSU, would I be better suited with a F12 in that front lower slot?
> 
> It would give me a good bit more static pressure aimed right at the video card, but I would have less CFM obviously. Wondering if anyone has any input here while I'm in the planing stages.
> 
> The rest of the build would be a U12S with F12 fan, dual A14 in the front, and a S12 rear exhaust. I plan to keep the top moduvent on for quieter operation.


I would run 2x 140mm in front. The more airflow into case the better the case can flow, and 140mm fans flow about 50T more more air than similar 120mm fans. 2x 140mm = 3x 120mm








You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' linked in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them. 5th post is good place to start.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I would run 2x 140mm in front. The more airflow into case the better the case can flow, and 140mm fans flow about 50T more more air than similar 120mm fans. 2x 140mm = 3x 120mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' linked in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topics to see them. 5th post is good place to start.


Great thanks I will check it out! There's also an optional bottom 120mm fan slot below the GPU, wondering if that would be beneficial to fill and help feed the GPU with cool air. I don't want to mess up the front to back airflow though. Guess I should just try it first and see if I need an additional fan.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Great thanks I will check it out! There's also an optional bottom 120mm fan slot below the GPU, wondering if that would be beneficial to fill and help feed the GPU with cool air. I don't want to mess up the front to back airflow though. Guess I should just try it first and see if I need an additional fan.


Indeed! Try the stock fans in front and bottom as intakes, monitor airflow temp into components and we can tune it from there.


----------



## weebeast

I am thinking of getting the NH-D15S + extra fan but i got a thermalright Silver Arrow at the moment. I can also get some new brackets and install the SA on a 1151 motherboard.

The only thing that worries me is all the stuff about cpu coolers bending skylake cpu's. The mounting system of the SA isn't great in my eyes compared to the Noctua one.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weebeast*
> 
> I am thinking of getting the NH-D15S + extra fan but i got a thermalright Silver Arrow at the moment. I can also get some new brackets and install the SA on a 1151 motherboard.
> 
> The only thing that worries me is all the stuff about cpu coolers bending skylake cpu's. The mounting system of the SA isn't great in my eyes compared to the Noctua one.


I haven't heard about this...?


----------



## weebeast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> I haven't heard about this...?


Well it's from end 2015. I am not even sure if this problems really existed or that it just happened to 1 person.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weebeast*
> 
> I am thinking of getting the NH-D15S + extra fan but i got a thermalright Silver Arrow at the moment. I can also get some new brackets and install the SA on a 1151 motherboard.
> 
> The only thing that worries me is all the stuff about cpu coolers bending skylake cpu's. The mounting system of the SA isn't great in my eyes compared to the Noctua one.


NH-D15S is only marginally if any better than Silver Arrow.
Skylake CPU is not a problem with any normal cooler. I have seen several reports of damaged CPU PCB and every one was a result of extreme abuse. Either they had thing done to them like dropping from 3 to 6 feet above the floor or a complete running system in case box was tossed overhead and landing on concrete floor or run so hot it was throttling all the time. Really, as long as it is treated the way normal people handle and use computers there is no problem.

As for Thermalright base not being as good as Noctua. I think they are very close to equal. Noc is easier to install because it uses all thumb nut and thumb screws instead of small hex head screws with Philips and don't have spring loaded screws. But the end result is both are good mounts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weebeast*
> 
> Well it's from end 2015. I am not even sure if this problems really existed or that it just happened to 1 person.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> I haven't heard about this...?


You won't hear about it because it was 99% media hype to create news. I will admit the thinner PCB is not quite as strong as older CPU PCBs, but it is still way stronger then required or needed .. unless you want to send a completely assembled system on commercial couriers who use untrained gorillas who toss boxes the length of their delivery trucks .. something many seem to do.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weebeast*
> 
> Well it's from end 2015. I am not even sure if this problems really existed or that it just happened to 1 person.


Thanks for the heads up, I can't imagine an issue like wouldn't have been addressed by now.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> NH-D15S is only marginally if any better than Silver Arrow.
> Skylake CPU is not a problem with any normal cooler. I have seen several reports of damaged CPU PCB and every one was a result of extreme abuse. Either they had thing done to them like dropping from 3 to 6 feet above the floor or a complete running system in case box was tossed overhead and landing on concrete floor or run so hot it was throttling all the time. Really, as long as it is treated the way normal people handle and use computers there is no problem.
> 
> As for Thermalright base not being as good as Noctua. I think they are very close to equal. Noc is easier to install because it uses all thumb nut and thumb screws instead of small hex head screws with Philips and don't have spring loaded screws. But the end result is both are good mounts.
> 
> You won't hear about it because it was 99% media hype to create news. I will admit the thinner PCB is not quite as strong as older CPU PCBs, but it is still way stronger then required or needed .. unless you want to send a completely assembled system on commercial couriers who use untrained gorillas who toss boxes the length of their delivery trucks .. something many seem to do.


Thanks that would make sense, I have no intentions of abusing my hardware.


----------



## weebeast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> NH-D15S is only marginally if any better than Silver Arrow.
> Skylake CPU is not a problem with any normal cooler. I have seen several reports of damaged CPU PCB and every one was a result of extreme abuse. Either they had thing done to them like dropping from 3 to 6 feet above the floor or a complete running system in case box was tossed overhead and landing on concrete floor or run so hot it was throttling all the time. Really, as long as it is treated the way normal people handle and use computers there is no problem.
> 
> As for Thermalright base not being as good as Noctua. I think they are very close to equal. Noc is easier to install because it uses all thumb nut and thumb screws instead of small hex head screws with Philips and don't have spring loaded screws. But the end result is both are good mounts.
> 
> You won't hear about it because it was 99% media hype to create news. I will admit the thinner PCB is not quite as strong as older CPU PCBs, but it is still way stronger then required or needed .. unless you want to send a completely assembled system on commercial couriers who use untrained gorillas who toss boxes the length of their delivery trucks .. something many seem to do.


Thanks! I will just get the new brackets then. Will save 90 euro's with that:thumb:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weebeast*
> 
> Thanks! I will just get the new brackets then. Will save 90 euro's with that:thumb:


Does your bracket look like black and silver parts in this one?

If it does, the 'slots' are actually 3 mounting hole s in each corner. the ones closest to middle are for LGA 775 mount, the middle of slot are for LGA 1150, 1151 & 1155 mounts, and the farthest out part of slot is for LGA1366 & 2011 mounts. LGA 2011 us spacer studs that thread into 2011 base (back plate is not used).


----------



## Mong Grel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> NH-D15S is only marginally if any better than Silver Arrow.
> Skylake CPU is not a problem with any normal cooler. I have seen several reports of damaged CPU PCB and every one was a result of extreme abuse. Either they had thing done to them like dropping from 3 to 6 feet above the floor or a complete running system in case box was tossed overhead and landing on concrete floor or run so hot it was throttling all the time. Really, as long as it is treated the way normal people handle and use computers there is no problem.
> 
> As for Thermalright base not being as good as Noctua. I think they are very close to equal. Noc is easier to install because it uses all thumb nut and thumb screws instead of small hex head screws with Philips and don't have spring loaded screws. But the end result is both are good mounts.
> 
> You won't hear about it because it was 99% media hype to create news. I will admit the thinner PCB is not quite as strong as older CPU PCBs, but it is still way stronger then required or needed .. unless you want to send a completely assembled system on commercial couriers who use untrained gorillas who toss boxes the length of their delivery trucks .. something many seem to do.


Still use a few old things myself, but have been a Noctua user long time now. Even have a couple on an old True Copper in one rig, and a 14 vertical.

People used to pooh-pooh on the Noctua fans at one time on a lot of forums, but they work well if you get the right one for an application, are generally quiet, and last a long time in my experience.



The mounts are all modded these days more or less, the True I lapped back in the day, the 14 barely needed it.


----------



## weebeast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Does your bracket look like black and silver parts in this one?
> 
> If it does, the 'slots' are actually 3 mounting hole s in each corner. the ones closest to middle are for LGA 775 mount, the middle of slot are for LGA 1150, 1151 & 1155 mounts, and the farthest out part of slot is for LGA1366 & 2011 mounts. LGA 2011 us spacer studs that thread into 2011 base (back plate is not used).


I have an other one. You need a little wrench to tight it up. Thermalright is sending me a space maintainer for 1151 and they asked if I need anything else. Great support from them and they told me that I can use the old bracket, it will fit


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mong Grel*
> 
> Still use a few old things myself, but have been a Noctua user long time now. Even have a couple on an old True Copper in one rig, and a 14 vertical.
> 
> People used to pooh-pooh on the Noctua fans at one time on a lot of forums, but they work well if you get the right one for an application, are generally quiet, and last a long time in my experience.
> 
> 
> 
> The mounts are all modded these days more or less, the True I lapped back in the day, the 14 barely needed it.


True Copper is a beast. It does cool a little better than normal aluminum one, but only a couple degrees .. and it is much, much heavier. If I remember correctly there were only 1000 of the TRUE Copper made.

Don't remember 14 vertical.

Noctua make good fans. They make good products in general. My only complaint is there are other fans just as good for less money.









Thermalright pioneered the convex base .. the best shape for universal mounting of coolers. CPU chip in Many CPUs is in center of IHS and is rather small. This is the only heat coming through the IHS, and IHS is not really spreading the heat. IHS is jis as big as it is to index and hold cooler on. Some AMD have CPU chips in corners, but center area of IHS has nothing under it so usually flexes down. I used to lap coolers and IHS, but don't bother any more. Too much work for little to no gain.









Here's a guide to TIM application, cooler base to IHS, etc.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weebeast*
> 
> I have an other one. You need a little wrench to tight it up. Thermalright is sending me a space maintainer for 1151 and they asked if I need anything else. Great support from them and they told me that I can use the old bracket, it will fit


Yes, the lower right of the pick shows the 3x holes overlapping each other to look almost like a slot. It is the same basic mount as one in image I posted, but for the thicker base on original Silver Arrow.

I deal with Thermalright a lot and have never had a problem. Always great customer support, not only to me but to everyone I know of who has contacted them.


----------



## weebeast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Does your bracket look like black and silver parts in this one?
> 
> If it does, the 'slots' are actually 3 mounting hole s in each corner. the ones closest to middle are for LGA 775 mount, the middle of slot are for LGA 1150, 1151 & 1155 mounts, and the farthest out part of slot is for LGA1366 & 2011 mounts. LGA 2011 us spacer studs that thread into 2011 base (back plate is not used).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yes, the lower right of the pick shows the 3x holes overlapping each other to look almost like a slot. It is the same basic mount as one in image I posted, but for the thicker base on original Silver Arrow.
> 
> I deal with Thermalright a lot and have never had a problem. Always great customer support, not only to me but to everyone I know of who has contacted them.


Yes i didn't expect this from them. They shipped me some stuff and i will install the silver arrow on the mobo when it arrives. Do you think it's possible to install a stock intel sandy bridge cooler on the 1151 7600k till the stuff arrives from taiwan? Should be fine i guess if i don't stress it a lot?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weebeast*
> 
> Yes i didn't expect this from them. They shipped me some stuff and i will install the silver arrow on the mobo when it arrives. Do you think it's possible to install a stock intel sandy bridge cooler on the 1151 7600k till the stuff arrives from taiwan? Should be fine i guess if i don't stress it a lot?


Stock cooler should work just fine. Probably be a little louder than you are used to.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I used my stock cooler on my 6700K for like a month, wasnt the most quiet thing, but was perfectly fine


----------



## AKHandyman

I've been a Noctua fan user for many years now. Since I recently went to water cooling ... I wanted Noctua fans on all of my rads ... here's a pic of my current rig ... one NF-F12 Industrial PPC-2000 PWM for my video card rad and two NF-A14 IndustrialPPC-2000 PWM for my Corsair H115i. I also included two NF-A14s in my Corsair 705D Airlow Edition front fans. Fan headers on my ASUS Maximus Hero IX make tuning these puppies a breeze (pun intended!







)


----------



## Chaoz

Since I switched to a completely watercooled build, I bought 7x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000-PWM with White Chromax grommets for my 360 and 480 radiators.

Great fans. Got them all hooked up to my Corsair Commander Mini and running on 900 rpm Static, which makes them barely noticable.

Got 4 which are visible in push and the other 3 are in Pull at the top because there wasn't enough room to fit them inside the case, because of the fatass res.


----------



## MicroCat

*FYI: FREE AM4 mounting kits now available from Noctua.*

http://noctua.at/en/noctua-offers-upgrade-kits-for-amd-s-ryzen-platform-free-of-charge



AM4 board POP, a few skill testing questions, some multiple D15 juggling (always catch at the base, not the fins) during a short dance audition and within 1-4 weeks the free mount could be at your door. I'm working up my exotic fan dance routine now.


----------



## Piddeman

No news from Noctua and the Chromax heatsink shields?


----------



## AlphaC

http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/noctua-presents-three-special-edition-am4-cpu-coolers-for-amd-ryzen.html & http://www.pcgameshardware.de/CPU-Kuehler-Hardware-255512/News/AMD-Ryzen-Noctua-1219731/

Noctua presents three special-edition AM4 CPU coolers for AMD Ryzen
Quote:


> Noctua today presented three special-edition models of its award-winning quiet CPU coolers. The new SE-AM4 versions of the NH-D15, NH-U12S and NH-L9x65 are dedicated premium-quality solutions for the new AM4 socket of AMD's upcoming Ryzen architecture.
> 
> Whereas the NH-L9x65 SE-AM4 is tailored for compact systems and the NH-U12S SE-AM4 offers an excellent balance of performance and compatibility, the NH-D15 SE-AM4 provides maximum cooling performance for overclockers and silent enthusiasts.
> "AMD's Ryzen architecture promises exciting possibilities for various applications and the NH-D15, NH-U12S and NH-L9x65 are some of our most popular models, so it was a natural choice to create dedicated special editions for the new platform," says Roland Mossig (Noctua CEO). "Each of these coolers has received more than 100 awards and recommendations from international websites and magazines, so we're confident that the SE-AM4 special editions will be a great choice for anything from compact ITX builds to overclocked gaming rigs."
> 
> With its supreme capacity at extreme heat loads, the NH-D15 SE-AM4 allows overclockers to push their AM4 systems to the limit and silent enthusiasts to run the fans at super-low speeds. By contrast, the NH-L9x65 SE-AM4 features a highly compact design and low profile, which makes it ideal for cooling lower TDP AM4 CPUs in HTPC or Small Form Factor cases. The mid-sized single tower NH-U12S SE-AM4 provides an excellent balance of efficiency, quietness and compatibility.
> All three models feature the new SecuFirm2 system for AM4, which has been tailor-designed for the new socket in order to ensure optimal compatibility, perfect contact pressure and easy, straightforward installation. Two different sets of mounting bars allow users to choose the orientation of the cooler according to their preferences in order to ensure optimal alignment with the airflow path inside the case.
> Thanks to Noctua's state-of-the-art NF-A15, NF-F12 and NF-A9x14 PWM fans that support fully automatic speed control and come with additional Low-Noise Adaptors, the new SE-AM4 models run remarkably quietly and are especially suited for highly noise-sensitive users aiming for near-silent operation. Topped off with Noctua's proven NT-H1 thermal compound and a full 6-year manufacturer's warranty, the NH-D15 SE-AM4, NH-U12S SE-AM4 and NH-L9x65 SE-AM4 form complete premium-quality solutions that represent a deluxe choice for elite-class AM4 builds.
> Prices and availability
> All three models are currently shipping and will be available shortly. The suggested retail prices are as follows:
> NH-D15 SE-AM4: EUR 89.90/USD 99.90
> NH-U12S SE-AM4: EUR 59.90/USD 64.90
> NH-L9x65 SE-AM4: EUR 44.90/USD 52.90


Not worth the price premium IMO , they ought to have dropped Intel mounting kit for Socket 2011 & AMD AM3 from this set as well as the 4x Rubber fan mounts and given it a $10-20 price cut:
NH-D15 SE-AM4: $80


Spoiler: NH-D15 current kit:



4x Rubber fan mounts <--- useless for a heatsink using fan clips more or less
4x Fan screws <--- useless for a heatsink using fan clips more or less
4x LGA2011 mounting screws <--- useless for most people using AM4
4x AMD mounting screws
4x AMD spacers (white)
4x Intel spacers (black)
4x Thumb screws
4x Fan clips
2x AMD mounting arms <--- currently AM3
2x Intel mounting arms
2x 140 mm x 150 mm x 25 mm NF-A15 fans
2x L.N.A adapters
1x Intel backplate
1x Tube of NT-H1 thermal paste
1x Phillips screwdriver
1x Metal Noctua badge
1x PWM Y-cable


NH-U12S SE-AM4: $55 , no socket 2011 and AM3 kit


Spoiler: NH-U12S current kit



12x Anti-vibration pads
4x LGA2011 mounting screws <--- useless for most people using AM4
4x AMD mounting screws
4x AMD spacers (white)
4x Intel spacers (black)
4x Thumb screws
2x Fan clips
2x AMD mounting arms <--- currently AM3
2x Intel mounting arms
1x 120 mm x 25 mm fan
1x Intel backplate
1x Tube of NT-H1 thermal paste
1x Phillips screwdriver
1x Metal Noctua badge
1x Low noise adaptor


NH-L9x65 SE-AM4: $45 , no socket 2011 and AM3 kit


Spoiler: NH-L9x65 current kit



4x LGA2011 screw pillars <--- useless for most people using AM4
4x AMD mounting screws
4x AMD spacers (white)
4x Intel spacers (black)
4x Thumb screws
2x Fan clips
2x AMD mounting arms <--- currently AM3
2x Intel mounting arms
1x 92 mm x 92 mm x 14 mm NF-A9x14 PWM fan
1x L.N.A adapter
1x Intel backplate
1x Tube of NT-H1 thermal paste
1x Phillips screwdriver
1x Metal Noctua badge



You'd think they would add Chromax trim and non-brown fans for that price


----------



## doyll

Sorry, but why a 'special edition'? Seems way more logical to have the normal cooler which comes with a mount that works on all CPU socket mounting patterns than one dedicated to just the AM4 mount.







Notctua does free upgrades on normal mounts. In the past Special Edition mounted coolers were not eligible for the free upgrades. Example; NH-D14 SE 2011 was better cooler than NH-D14 because it came with 2x 140mm PWM fans (normal D14 is 1x 140mm & 1x 120mm vriable voltage fans). Consumers who bought the NHD14 SE2011 were not eligible for normal mounting kit that fit all other coolers.


----------



## AlphaC

That's not the only problem with them labeling it special edition IMO. You can buy a regular NH-D15, NH-U12S , NH-L9x65 and have the AM4 kit delivered for at most *USD 7.90 + shipping/tax* even if you don't have an AM4 motherboard, free if you have one purchased (the only reason to get the kit anyway). The market pricing for these coolers is lower than the MSRP for the special edition and you don't need to wait for the special edition to release. So therefore it is not really special ; the NH-D14 SE2011 at least had PWM fans as a differentiation.

Therefore there is no real advantage to buying a special edition AM4 one since you can submit proof of purchase of a Noctua cooler and a motherboard and get the AM4 kit for free. If they had it such that it was cheaper & different color (_less brown_ and more monochrome) similar to the Noctua redux but with only AM4 kit then I could understand.

For example a black and white NH-D15 for special edition , or black one with red corners


http://noctua.at/en/nm-am4-mounting-kit
Quote:


> Owners of Noctua CPU coolers* can obtain the NM-AM4 Mounting-Kit free of charge via this form. A proof of purchase (electronic version, photo or scan of the invoice) of both a Noctua CPU cooler and either a socket AM4 mainboard or socket AM4 CPU are required.


^ NH-D15 , NH-L9x65

http://noctua.at/en/nm-am4-uxs-mounting-kit
Quote:


> Owners of Noctua NH-U14S, NH-U12S and NH-U9S CPU coolers can obtain the NM-AM4-UxS Mounting-Kit free of charge via this form. A proof of purchase (electronic version, photo or scan of the invoice) of both a Noctua CPU cooler and either a socket AM4 mainboard or socket AM4 CPU are required.


Given that you can apply for a kit at the same time you buy an AM4 motherboard (since you will have an invoice/electronic invoice of the motherboard) the pricing is really poor.

EDIT: See the site specs page , they pretty much cut all other mounting kits so the price is truly poor:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *http://noctua.at/en/products/cpu-cooler-retail/nh-d15-se-am4/specification*
> 2x NF-A15 PWM premium fan
> 2x Low-Noise Adaptor (L.N.A.)
> 4-pin PWM y-cable
> NT-H1 high-grade thermal compound
> SecuFirm2™ AM4 mounting-kit
> Noctua metal case-badge


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *http://noctua.at/en/products/cpu-cooler-retail/nh-u12s-se-am4/specification*
> 
> NF-F12 PWM premium fan
> Low-Noise Adaptor (L.N.A.)
> NT-H1 high-grade thermal compound
> SecuFirm2™ AM4 mounting-kit
> Anti-vibration pads and fan-clips for second NF-F12
> Noctua metal case-badge


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *http://noctua.at/en/products/cpu-cooler-retail/nh-l9x65-se-am4/specification*
> NF-A9x14 PWM premium fan
> Low-Noise Adaptor (L.N.A.)
> NT-H1 high-grade thermal compound
> SecuFirm2™ AM4 mounting-kit
> Noctua metal case-badge


----------



## Luckael

does anyone try the Noctua D15s on Z170 maximus VIII Gene?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luckael*
> 
> does anyone try the Noctua D15s on Z170 maximus VIII Gene?


Here is scaled measurements from Maximus VIII Gene showing 72 + mm center CPU to near side of PCIe socket.


Here is an old list of cooler sizes. I'm updating now with newer coolers.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319255


----------



## Martigane

According to Noctua list of MOBO compatibility for D15*s*, it should be ok:
http://noctua.at/en/products/cpu-cooler-retail/nh-d15s/comp

And indeed, take the D15s, and not the D15, otherwise the D15 will block the first Pcie port:
http://noctua.at/en/mainboard/Asus_ROG_Maximus_VIII_Gene
"_The cooler is extending over the first PCI-E x16 slot, so please use the other available PCI-E slot(s) for your video card(s)._ "


----------



## Piddeman

For those who is interested in Chromax shields on Noctua's coolers.

Chromax shields will be released Q2/2017

''Dear [email protected],

thanks for contacting Noctua!

Those covers will be released in Q2/2017.

Kind regards, Mit freundlichen Grüßen,
Emanuel Fankhauser
Noctua support team''


----------



## Luckael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martigane*
> 
> According to Noctua list of MOBO compatibility for D15*s*, it should be ok:
> http://noctua.at/en/products/cpu-cooler-retail/nh-d15s/comp
> 
> And indeed, take the D15s, and not the D15, otherwise the D15 will block the first Pcie port:
> http://noctua.at/en/mainboard/Asus_ROG_Maximus_VIII_Gene
> "_The cooler is extending over the first PCI-E x16 slot, so please use the other available PCI-E slot(s) for your video card(s)._ "


i already checked this. but i have an issue before in D15. i checked that my motherboard is supported in the nocuta website. but when my d15 to be paired with z97m-plus it was a good fit. but i cant install a card with backplate








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Here is scaled measurements from Maximus VIII Gene showing 72 + mm center CPU to near side of PCIe socket.
> 
> 
> Here is an old list of cooler sizes. I'm updating now with newer coolers.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319255


Thanks for this. just ordered it in amazon.


----------



## CoolAs

Please add me. I am a happy owner of a Noctua NH-D15S. Single fan, though. Is it much better to add a second fan? What would be the temp gain be?


----------



## ehume

Noctua says there is minimal gain to adding a fan. Check older reviews. I may not link to it, but I did such a thing when I reviewed the 15S on Overclockers.


----------



## senna89

Can you help me guys ?

What is the best cooler between *U9S* and *C14S* ( in low profile mode ) ?
I think L12 is surellynot competitive with the two models above


----------



## ehume

My review of the L-12 back in April 2013 that compares the cooling onf the L12 to the D14 would back you up.


----------



## CoolAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Noctua says there is minimal gain to adding a fan. Check older reviews. I may not link to it, but I did such a thing when I reviewed the 15S on Overclockers.


OK! Thanks a lot for the reply and the info. No need for the link, I already found it on Overclockers. See you around!


----------



## senna89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> My review of the L-12 back in April 2013 that compares the cooling onf the L12 to the D14 would back you up.


I saw



12° difference with a mid-end CPU.
And actual CPU are still warmer


----------



## senna89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> Can you help me guys ?
> 
> What is the best cooler between *U9S* and *C14S* ( in low profile mode ) ?
> I think L12 is surellynot competitive with the two models above


anyone ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> Can you help me guys ?
> 
> What is the best cooler between *U9S* and *C14S* ( in low profile mode ) ?
> I think L12 is surellynot competitive with the two models above


I prefer the NH-U9S because it is a tower design, so it draws air from in front and pushes it out the back toward rear exhasut fan/s C14S pushes air down through cooler where it hits motherboard and turn out, then hits GPU, RAM, etc and turns up along side of cooler and up past fan where this now once heated is now drawn back into fan and back through cooler and back up the side and now twice heated air is drawn back into cooler and back down ...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22323763

*The key to cool and quiet system is not allowing heated component exhaust air mix with cool air supply to component.*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> I saw
> 
> 12° difference with a mid-end CPU.
> And actual CPU are still warmer


Same answer as above.

That difference is not so much the difference in cooler cooling ability, but the coolers' ability to keep it's own heated exhaust from being sucked back inoto itself.


----------



## epic1337

or just flip the hsf fan, and even use side-panel fan as exhaust.



speaking of which, has there been a test regarding temp difference between two orientations? specially other component temps besides the CPU.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> or just flip the hsf fan, and even use side-panel fan as exhaust.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> speaking of which, has there been a test regarding temp difference between two orientations? specially other component temps besides the CPU.


I don't test many pancake coolers, but when when I tested the AXP-100 I did a comparison test.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1347211/thermalright-axp-100-showed-up-today/0_20#post_19033437

5th graph in this link shows push versus pull fan on AXP-100 with up to 5c difference

I often suggest to users to try fan both ways and usually they reply that pull gives them lower CPU temps.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

I tried flipping the fan on my file server and router. CPU temps did not change much but other sensors on the mobo went up. Not sure whatbthey are exactly. Just listed by zone numbers and i never looked them up.


----------



## doyll

The changes vary depending on case airflow and other component placement. Things like GPU and tall RAM will obviously have more effect on air downflowing into cooler and subsequent turn around and up along side of cooler than a low RAM and no GPU.


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> I tried flipping the fan on my file server and router. CPU temps did not change much but other sensors on the mobo went up. Not sure whatbthey are exactly. Just listed by zone numbers and i never looked them up.


probably VRMs.

the VRMs could reach 100c easily without airflow, and push-down pancake HSFs gives that sufficient airflow to cool them despite being hot air.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> probably VRMs.
> 
> the VRMs could reach 100c easily without airflow, and push-down pancake HSFs gives that sufficient airflow to cool them despite being hot air.


I've found pulling air up through pancake cooler simply reverses the airflow around motherboard components. The ones I've done this on usually gave lower motherboard component temps in pull than push.


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I've found pulling air up through pancake cooler simply reverses the airflow around motherboard components. The ones I've done this on usually gave lower motherboard component temps in pull than push.


low-speed fan? technically a high-speed fan has too much air velocity to circulate back.
but it could probably pull strong enough to affect airflow around it though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> low-speed fan? technically a high-speed fan has too much air velocity to circulate back.
> but it could probably pull strong enough to affect airflow around it though.


You seem to be making assumptions rather than what air technically does.
















Moving air follows the path of least resistance. With a downflwo cooler this is turning out from CPU below cooler, hitting RAM, GPU, etc to turn up back along side of cooler and be drawn back into cooler. When it comes up above cooler fan it gets drawn back into fan.

There is no other logical explanation for the air above cooler to be warmer than room .. 8c warmer when CPU and cooler are working hard.

Compiled data verifies what I'm saying. Temperatures from 1200rpm to 2500rpm with fan pulling air out were lower than with fan pushing air in. testing the air temperature was 'technically' higher at all an speeds.

While I only recorded the cooler intaek with fan at 2250rpm, the intake air temp was within 1c of 30c throughout the testing session. I have no idea what the temps would be with no GPU and tall RAM blocking airflow. I suspect not having GPU on one side would lower intake air temps, but keep in mid I had a fan flowing air over the system top side of motherboard / the side opposite the GPU.

*AXP-100 w/ TY-100 pushing in
Tested with i7 920 stock (130w CPU) on open bench with a TY-140 40cm away and 15cm above work top blowing 22c ambient over test setup.
Handbrake @ realtime

Room ambient . Idle CPU; rpm; Cooler Exhaust. . 100% CPU; rpm; Cooler Exhaust . mobo; NB; Cooler intake*
21.5c . . . . . . . . . 33-34-35-31c 2400rpm 28.0c . . 67-68-67-66c 2400rpm . 39.5c . . 36c . . 51c
22.0c . . . . . . . . . 33-34-35-31c 2250rpm 28.0c . . 68-68-69-67c 2250rpm . 39.5c . . 36c . . 51c . . 30.0c
22.5c . . . . . . . . . 36-35-39-33c 2000rpm 30.0c . . 69-70-70-69c 2000rpm . 40.0c . . 39c . . 51c
22.5c . . . . . . . . . 35-34-38-33c 1750rpm 29.5c . . 72-73-73-71c 1750rpm . 43.0c . . 40c . . 54c
22.5c . . . . . . . . ; 35-35-39-34c 1500rpm 30.0c . . 76-78-77-75c 1500rpm . 47.0c . . 40c . . 57c
23.0c . . . . . . . . . 37-36-41-36c 1200rpm 31.0c; 39c & 46c mobo & NB

2400rpm is maximum rpm mounted pushing in
*Temperature of air 30mm above TY-100*
Intake air is much warmer than room ambient.. like 8c warmer!.

*AXP-100 w/ TY-100 pulling out
Tested with i7 920 stock (130w CPU)
Handbrake @ realtime

Room ambient . Idle CPU; rpm; Cooler Exhaust. . 100% CPU; rpm; Cooler Exhaust . mobo; NB; Cooler intake*
21.5c . . . . . . . . 32-31-35-31c 2450rpm 26.0c . . 62-62-63-61c 2450rpm . 33.5c . . 34c . . 46c
21.5c . . . . . . . . 33-31-35-31c 2250rpm 25.5c . . 63-64-65-63c 2250rpm . 34.5c . . 37c . . 45c
21.5c . . . . . . . . 33-32-37-33c 2000rpm 30.0c . . 64-65-65-64c 2000rpm . 35.5c . . 34c . . 48c
21.5c . . . . . . . . 35-34-39-34c 1750rpm 28.5c . . 66-67-66-65c 1750rpm . 37.5c . . 35c . . 50c
21.5c . . . . . . . . 34-33-38-32c 1500rpm 27.0c . . 69-70-70-69c 1500rpm . 39.5c . . 34c . . 51c
21.0c . . . . . . . . 35-34-38-33c 1200rpm 28.0c; 34c & 47c mobo & NB

*I neglected to put a probe under cooler, sorry.
. 2450rpm is maximum rpm mounted pulling out*

Running TY-100 pushing in and find the heat difference is because of air temperature over cooler / fan intake. Running at 2400rpm the air 30mm above AXP-100 is 28.5c with 22c ambient. That's with a TY-140 40cm away and 15cm above work top blowing 22c ambient over test setup. It also shows in the exhaust temp readings with TY-100 pushing into cooler.

Just goes to prove how much more important actual cooler intake air temperature is than what the room ambient temperature is.


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You seem to be making assumptions rather than what air technically does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moving air follows the path of least resistance. With a downflwo cooler this is turning out from CPU below cooler, hitting RAM, GPU, etc to turn up back along side of cooler and be drawn back into cooler. When it comes up above cooler fan it gets drawn back into fan.
> 
> There is no other logical explanation for the air above cooler to be warmer than room .. 8c warmer when CPU and cooler are working hard.


no no, i was talking about pull-up having a straight-path towards the case's back-exhaust, this means theres much less airflow aside from the pulled in air from the intake.
and with a strong enough fan, the pulled in air from the intake side could count as enough airflow to actually cool the other parts.

unlike a push-down having it's exhaust side slamming on the motherboard, this technically forces the air to flow back into it's intake.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> no no, i was talking about pull-up having a straight-path towards the case's back-exhaust, this means theres much less airflow aside from the pulled in air from the intake.
> and with a strong enough fan, the pulled in air from the intake side could count as enough airflow to actually cool the other parts.
> 
> unlike a push-down having it's exhaust side slamming on the motherboard, this technically forces the air to flow back into it's intake.


That sounds more like the logic you usually post.







Sorry for the misunderstanding.









It's not a perfect airflow. The air flowing over motherboard above cooler doesn't keep all of the heated air away from the potential of dropping back down onto motherboard between cooler and back vent, , but yeah, It is usually better then air being pushed down toward motherboard.


----------



## Axiomatik

Which noctua fans can be painted? I've seen that the P12 can be disassembled, but the F12s cannot. I haven't seen any info about the SA12.


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axiomatik*
> 
> Which noctua fans can be painted? I've seen that the P12 can be disassembled, but the F12s cannot. I haven't seen any info about the SA12.


you can pretty much paint them even if you don't remove them from the hub.

though it isn't advisable to paint the fans themselves since they're balanced and painting can offset that balance.


----------



## Axiomatik

I probably should have come here first, but I ordered a bunch of noctua fans for my S340 case. Two NF-F12 (for intake and future AiO radiator) and two NF S12As for exhaust. Did I do this right?


----------



## cfraser

Personally, if going with standard/common Noctua 120mm fans, I would have gone with P12s for the exhaust over the S12As. The P12s are actually very good for exhaust, and for rads too. I have to admit I don't really get the S12As, I only have one and I don't think it's as good for the things you mentioned as the F12 or the P12. With 2xF12 and 2xP12 you could have swapped them around to see what works best/quietest/etc. for each purpose, but IME with S12As you're pretty limited. I guess they might be OK for intake if you were doing that, but even with modest filters they seem inhibited...like I said, I just haven't figured out what they're really good for.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axiomatik*
> 
> I probably should have come here first, but I ordered a bunch of noctua fans for my S340 case. Two NF-F12 (for intake and future AiO radiator) and two NF S12As for exhaust. *Did I do this right?*


http://noctua.at/en/buying-guide-fans


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axiomatik*
> 
> I probably should have come here first, but I ordered a bunch of noctua fans for my S340 case. Two NF-F12 (for intake and future AiO radiator) and two NF S12As for exhaust. Did I do this right?


I just get NF-F12 fans for everything. Even exhaust. You sill have to push the air through a grill, so pressure optimized is not a bad thing. Plus the air flow rate is not that different. Not enough to really matter.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cfraser*
> 
> Personally, if going with standard/common Noctua 120mm fans, I would have gone with P12s for the exhaust over the S12As. The P12s are actually very good for exhaust, and for rads too. I have to admit I don't really get the S12As, I only have one and I don't think it's as good for the things you mentioned as the F12 or the P12. With 2xF12 and 2xP12 you could have swapped them around to see what works best/quietest/etc. for each purpose, but IME with S12As you're pretty limited. I guess they might be OK for intake if you were doing that, but even with modest filters they seem inhibited...like I said, I just haven't figured out what they're really good for.


You would think that, but when I tested them for a review, I found the S12A's keeping up very well.


----------



## cfraser

Yes, you (I!) would think that.









In fact, I bought the S12A first, then the F12, kind of like the Q asker, and then I asked Noctua (just like that linked page says you can do). They recommended the P12 for exhaust, specifically *didn't* recommend the S12A for exhaust due to its lower static pressure and there being an exhaust "grille" here (it's one of the more open ones, very small restriction according to doyll's cooling thread). But when you have low SP like the S12A, any restriction hurts, but probably not enough so you couldn't use the fan.

My tests were just the practical type, nothing very scientific. I don't mind though, I like having a bunch of fans to try in different situations. Just saying this so you don't think it's *just* my opinion, but their rep's. Unless of course they had a crapload of P12s to move...but the P12 really does get kind of hidden in all the forum talk, it's almost kind of forgotten (not by you guys of course).


----------



## Axiomatik

well i ordered through amazon so returns can be easy! I'll try one of the S12As and see if it's effective.


----------



## cfraser

^ I didn't mean to be a downer there. I did mostly the same thing with the S12A and F12, they were my first 120mm Noctua fans, previously had only used 140mm ones. And I also got most of my Noctuas from amazon, they are actually one of the more reasonably-priced good fan brands in Canada, many of the other good brands people here talk about make Noctuas look dirt cheap to acquire in comparison.

The P12 is an older design, SSO rather than SSO2 bearings, less "advanced" blades/shroud, etc. A good fan though, many prefer it over the F12 even, for similar uses. I think the S12A is designed for moving air through an unobstructed aperture, like a traditional clear exhaust cutout with a wire grille, and perhaps through a short duct too. It is quite common for people to cut out their case exhaust fan positions anyway.


----------



## DyndaS

My little collection.

Flip, Flap, Flipper and Flapper


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> My little collection.
> 
> Flip, Flap, Flipper and Flapper


I have the fist two running 24/7 in a file server and my router. Work rather well.


----------



## cfraser

I have a NH-D15 I've been playing with and staring at for way over a month, will install it next week probably. Got it (unused) for a good price from a guy who didn't like the way it would fit/obstruct in his setup. I am about 99% sure it will fit my build OK, but I got it about a week after I finished that new build and decided to leave well-enough alone. But when everything's working perfectly, we can't have that, so absolutely must change it...







More beige and shiny won't hurt.


----------



## Piddeman

Gonna share my build.

Not much, but it does what it suppose to do.


----------



## claes

Nice







How does that mono handle the 970? Is that a SlipStream?


----------



## Piddeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claes*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How does that mono handle the 970? Is that a SlipStream?


Thanks.

Yes, its a SlipStream fan, love it.

The MonoPlus cooler handles my GTX970 with no problem, max temp 63c with the fan on 500RPM (Open case)


----------



## TonyRoma

Can I be in this club too please?









Currently using a Corsair 740 case with NZXT Grid v2 fan controller, and these fans...

5x Noctua NF-P14s Redux 1500PWM (2x bottom, 2x H110 top, 1x rear)
2x Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC 3000PWM (both on front)


----------



## Bumtsiki

Changed Noctua fans for Fractal, purely for estetics...


----------



## Transmaniacon

How would the Redux S12B PWM work for a radiator? I like the grey theme but they don't have a F12 variant.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> How would the Redux S12B PWM work for a radiator? I like the grey theme but they don't have a F12 variant.


Check to see if there is an NF-P12 variant in the redux collection.

The S12B has weak static pressure. I like the fan, but I wouldn't put it on a rad. The P12 is stronger.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Check to see if there is an NF-P12 variant in the redux collection.
> 
> The S12B has weak static pressure. I like the fan, but I wouldn't put it on a rad. The P12 is stronger.


Looks like they only have the S12 in the Redux series, I like the styling but will need to keep looking.


----------



## Mr0czny

anyone have a photos with Noctua NH-D15S mounted on mATX board ?

i want to know if i can mount GPU in first PCIe


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr0czny*
> 
> anyone have a photos with Noctua NH-D15S mounted on mATX board ?
> 
> i want to know if i can mount GPU in first PCIe


Fit depends on which mATX motherboard you plan to use. While PCIe sockets have a standard placement, CPU sockets do not. This means the distance from center CPU to nearest PCIe socket is different depending on what motherboard it is.


----------



## Mr0czny

at this moment maximus VIII gene


----------



## equinoxe3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr0czny*
> 
> at this moment maximus VIII gene


Not sure about the VIII Gene, but I have an older version (IV Gene) with a D15S and a GPU in the first slot.
Unlike the D14 which would have been a tight fit in my case, the D15S is offset to the top-left so there's enough clearance below.


----------



## Salman8506

Count me in...Have Nh-U12p-se2 for as long as i can remember, Recently got an old NH-D14..both work quite well


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr0czny*
> 
> anyone have a photos with Noctua NH-D15S mounted on mATX board ?
> 
> i want to know if i can mount GPU in first PCIe


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr0czny*
> 
> at this moment maximus VIII gene


The Maximus VIII Gene has 72mm center CPU to near side of 1st PCIe socket and 51mm to near side of RAM socket.
NH-D15S is 67mm center cooler to side of cooler fins and about 70 to fan clip. Fan clip can be bent so it is 67-68mm.


----------



## Luckael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr0czny*
> 
> anyone have a photos with Noctua NH-D15S mounted on mATX board ?
> 
> i want to know if i can mount GPU in first PCIe


check this mine. Maximus Gene VIII with noctua D15s, it has a lot of room for your first pci slot.


----------



## Mr0czny

thanks guys


----------



## thedosbox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luckael*
> 
> check this mine. Maximus Gene VIII with noctua D15s, it has a lot of room for your first pci slot.


What CPU is that sitting atop, and what sort of temperatures are you getting? I'm considering one for my i7-7700K in same case (also a Enthoo Evolv Micro-ATX).


----------



## Salman8506

for 4.4ghz on a i7 4790k @ 27-28c ambient i get under 60-64c under full load non-synthetic using a 3 year old noctua D14. And 4790k is theorotically hotter then the 7700k.


----------



## Luckael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedosbox*
> 
> What CPU is that sitting atop, and what sort of temperatures are you getting? I'm considering one for my i7-7700K in same case (also a Enthoo Evolv Micro-ATX).


im using 6700k. oc @ 4.5ghz with 1.265v. idle temp was 34-40c max load 69c room temp was 24-27c with close case phanteks evolv matx


----------



## thedosbox

@Salman8506 & @Luckael - thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Salman8506*
> 
> for 4.4ghz on a i7 4790k @ 27-28c ambient i get under 60-64c under full load non-synthetic using a 3 year old noctua D14. And 4790k is theorotically hotter then the 7700k.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luckael*
> 
> im using 6700k. oc @ 4.5ghz with 1.265v. idle temp was 34-40c max load 69c room temp was 24-27c with close case phanteks evolv matx


Thanks


----------



## AMDATI

My case awaits its 1080ti upgrade! It shall be glorious!


----------



## ElectroGeek007

NH-D15S (with second fan)
2x NF-A14 PWM

BTW does anyone know how long the shipping takes for the free Noctua AM4 adapter? It's been 1.5 weeks and my Ryzen rig is limping along at stock with a Hyper 212 until the adapter arrives.


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectroGeek007*
> 
> 
> 
> NH-D15S (with second fan)
> 2x NF-A14 PWM
> 
> BTW does anyone know how long the shipping takes for the free Noctua AM4 adapter? It's been 1.5 weeks and my Ryzen rig is limping along at stock with a Hyper 212 until the adapter arrives.


i received mine today after about a week or so i believe, but im in France and Noctua is in Austria so it was fairly quick, they do ship postage so it may take a while to reach the US, not sure if they have warehouses stocking em in the US (i doubt it but who knows)


----------



## overclockmememe

Anyone know the tdp of running the NH-D15 SE-AM4 in passive (fanless) mode?


----------



## claes

Vortez is the only reviewer I know of that tests coolers passively: https://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/noctua_nh_d15_review,10.html


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overclockmememe*
> 
> Anyone know the tdp of running the NH-D15 SE-AM4 in passive (fanless) mode?


What is cooler orientation? Most cooler passive cool better with fins on a vertical plane versus horizontal plane.


----------



## GOTFrog

Right now I have a D14 the stock 3 pin fans, my motherboard tries to regulate the fan speed which is really annoying, I want to switch them to PWM fans. What Fan should I get?


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOTFrog*
> 
> Right now I have a D14 the stock 3 pin fans, my motherboard tries to regulate the fan speed which is really annoying, I want to switch them to PWM fans. What Fan should I get?


If you want to stay in the family, then the NF-A15 or NF-A14. Or the NF-A14 industrialPPC-24V-3000 IP67 (24V version spins to 1600rpm on 12V PWM - don't want it to go much faster without unacceptable noise - I use a pair of these on a D14 and rarely spin faster than 1200rpm in IBT with a 2700k at 4.8)

If you don't mind wandering outside the chocolate and cream lines then there's the Thermalright TR-147a. Or the NZXT FX140 V2. Or the Be!Q Silent Wings 3 140mm.


----------



## MrPlankton

I've ordered a Noctua NH-D15 for my MSI Z170M Mortar mobo (mATX) and have a GTX 1070 in the first PCI-E slot. The board only comes with two PCI-E slots and the second one is restricted to x4 speeds, so I have to use the first slot (which is closest to the CPU).

Will the side of the NH-D15 somewhat resting against the backplate of the GTX 1070 affect the temps of the GPU and/or CPU too much?


----------



## MicroCat

Too late to suggest the D15S then?

With good front-to-back case airflow, wouldn't expect it to affect the CPU or the GPU temps. With not-so-good case airflow...well...that never happens, so you're fine. ;-)


----------



## GOTFrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> If you want to stay in the family, then the NF-A15 or NF-A14. Or the NF-A14 industrialPPC-24V-3000 IP67 (24V version spins to 1600rpm on 12V PWM - don't want it to go much faster without unacceptable noise - I use a pair of these on a D14 and rarely spin faster than 1200rpm in IBT with a 2700k at 4.8)
> 
> If you don't mind wandering outside the chocolate and cream lines then there's the Thermalright TR-147a. Or the NZXT FX140 V2. Or the Be!Q Silent Wings 3 140mm.


with the NF-A14 how am I to attach the clips to hold it on the D14? I thought you needed 120mm mounting holes


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOTFrog*
> 
> with the NF-A14 how am I to attach the clips to hold it on the D14? I thought you needed 120mm mounting holes


I try to avoid fan clips for finger safety and esthetic reasons. With my D14 & A14 24V fans, the center fan friction fits without need for further clippiness. The 2nd fan uses svelte, black twist ties connected late at night under the watchful eyes of the cat management to the inner fan. It is mounted on the 2nd tower and performs case exhaust duties as well.

I also use Ziptie Screws when the rare need for permanence strikes. See ehume's zippy post: http://www.overclock.net/t/753254/ziptie-screw/0_30


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOTFrog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> If you want to stay in the family, then the NF-A15 or NF-A14. Or the NF-A14 industrialPPC-24V-3000 IP67 (24V version spins to 1600rpm on 12V PWM - don't want it to go much faster without unacceptable noise - I use a pair of these on a D14 and rarely spin faster than 1200rpm in IBT with a 2700k at 4.8)
> 
> If you don't mind wandering outside the chocolate and cream lines then there's the Thermalright TR-147a. Or the NZXT FX140 V2. Or the Be!Q Silent Wings 3 140mm.
> 
> 
> 
> with the NF-A14 how am I to attach the clips to hold it on the D14? I thought you needed 120mm mounting holes
Click to expand...

Actually, you will want the NF-A15 PWM -- that has the 120mm screw-holes you want. Get three.

You will want low profile RAM (I use ultra-low profile RAM) to enable you to use a 140mm push fan. The pull fan won't improve the cooling too much, but remove your rear grill and exhaust fan.

The pull fan will entrain your case air and will improve your case flow-through while keeping everything quiet. Cover the cut edges with slide-grip spines from the cheap plastic report covers you can find at you local stationery store.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GOTFrog*
> 
> with the NF-A14 how am I to attach the clips to hold it on the D14? I thought you needed 120mm mounting holes
> 
> 
> 
> I try to avoid fan clips for finger safety and esthetic reasons. With my D14 & A14 24V fans, the center fan friction fits without need for further clippiness. The 2nd fan uses svelte, black twist ties connected late at night under the watchful eyes of the cat management to the inner fan. It is mounted on the 2nd tower and performs case exhaust duties as well.
> 
> I also use Ziptie Screws when the rare need for permanence strikes. See ehume's zippy post: http://www.overclock.net/t/753254/ziptie-screw/0_30
Click to expand...

One of the improvements Noctua made when they replaced the D14 with the D15 was low profile clips. But it was too late for you. With all due respect for Monsieur le Chat Micron, I would continue to recommend the NF-A15. It is too bad you seem to have a motherboard with a graphics card in the top slot, but those boards are a little too expensive to change.

Instead, I would recommend wrapping the ears of those fan clips so that they will not conduct electricity (I used masking tape for the duty). Theoretically, you can short out the electrical solder runs and contact points on the underside of your graphics card through contact with fan clips.

If you have tall RAM, buy two fans -- middle and back.


----------



## GOTFrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Actually, you will want the NF-A15 PWM -- that has the 120mm screw-holes you want. Get three.
> 
> You will want low profile RAM (I use ultra-low profile RAM) to enable you to use a 140mm push fan. The pull fan won't improve the cooling too much, but remove your rear grill and exhaust fan.
> 
> The pull fan will entrain your case air and will improve your case flow-through while keeping everything quiet. Cover the cut edges with slide-grip spines from the cheap plastic report covers you can find at you local stationery store.


I have corsair vengeance lpx ram so i should be good
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> I try to avoid fan clips for finger safety and esthetic reasons. With my D14 & A14 24V fans, the center fan friction fits without need for further clippiness. The 2nd fan uses svelte, black twist ties connected late at night under the watchful eyes of the cat management to the inner fan. It is mounted on the 2nd tower and performs case exhaust duties as well.
> 
> I also use Ziptie Screws when the rare need for permanence strikes. See ehume's zippy post: http://www.overclock.net/t/753254/ziptie-screw/0_30


Zip ties never thought of that and I have a ton of them since i use about 150 to 200 per day at work


----------



## Mong Grel

Zip ties are handy for many things of course









I have a few things in rigs that use them.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Got my new system built, Noctua all around! I wanted to put the fan on the right side of the heatsink but my Dominator Platinums are slightly too tall. I plan to either get a D15s or a Corsair H115i so this U12s is only temporary until I OC.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Got my new system built, Noctua all around! I wanted to put the fan on the right side of the heatsink but my Dominator Platinums are slightly too tall. I plan to either get a D15s or a Corsair H115i so this U12s is only temporary until I OC.


Looks good.
If you like quiet, get the D15S, not the H115. D15S cools about the same, is quieter and will last a lot longer.


----------



## Piddeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Got my new system built, Noctua all around! I wanted to put the fan on the right side of the heatsink but my Dominator Platinums are slightly too tall. I plan to either get a D15s or a Corsair H115i so this U12s is only temporary until I OC.


Well..if you are used to the silence that Noctua gives you, you should not go AIO-cooling..pump is really loud.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piddeman*
> 
> Well..if you are used to the silence that Noctua gives you, you should not go AIO-cooling..pump is really loud.


Is the pump really that loud? I was going to keep the A14 fans and ditch the stock Corsair ones. I'll be honest part of me likes the look of the AIO coolers, but I think the D15S might be a better choice.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Looks good.
> If you like quiet, get the D15S, not the H115. D15S cools about the same, is quieter and will last a lot longer.


Yeah I'm beginning to think I may need to stick with air, is the D15S shorter than the D15? I know clearance is tight with the Nano S case.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Yeah I'm beginning to think I may need to stick with air, is the D15S shorter than the D15? I know clearance is tight with the Nano S case.


NH-D15S is 160mm tall and I think the fan can be lowered to be flush with top of cooler pipes.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> NH-D15S is 160mm tall and I think the fan can be lowered to be flush with top of cooler pipes.


Great thanks that should fit fine in the Nano S.


----------



## equinoxe3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Great thanks that should fit fine in the Nano S.


Height-wise yes it will fit, my D15S is in a Define Mini, which is max. 160mm vs your Nano which is 162mm.
As Doyll said, the center fan does not protrude from the tip of the heatpipes.
It does not even touch the Moduvent foam padding on the side intake of the case.

It *should* clear your RAM as well, though you might not be able to mount a second fan.
Not that it matters much since the difference would be minimal, and you're already really close to your exhaust


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Great thanks that should fit fine in the Nano S.


I've been looking at your build, it has basically the same components I was planning on. I have a NH-D14, 160mm tall. I put one in a Core 1500 that has the same height requirement as the Nano S so should work here.

What do you use to load drivers and stuff off DVDs on these mITX rigs? I used the Core 1500 last time since it has a spot for an optical drive. External drive for just the short amount of time it's needed?


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I've been looking at your build, it has basically the same components I was planning on. I have a NH-D14, 160mm tall. I put one in a Core 1500 that has the same height requirement as the Nano S so should work here.
> 
> What do you use to load drivers and stuff off DVDs on these mITX rigs? I used the Core 1500 last time since it has a spot for an optical drive. External drive for just the short amount of time it's needed?


Great thanks for confirming the clearance, seems like the Noctua D15S is the way to go for quiet operation.

I haven't needed a CD drive in a long time. I made a bootable USB drive for Windows 10 via the Microsoft tool on their website. Any drivers I needed can be downloaded online, and Windows 10 does a good enough job gathering everything up automatically.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *equinoxe3d*
> 
> Height-wise yes it will fit, my D15S is in a Define Mini, which is max. 160mm vs your Nano which is 162mm.
> As Doyll said, the center fan does not protrude from the tip of the heatpipes.
> It does not even touch the Moduvent foam padding on the side intake of the case.
> 
> It *should* clear your RAM as well, though you might not be able to mount a second fan.
> Not that it matters much since the difference would be minimal, and you're already really close to your exhaust


Great thanks!


----------



## Transmaniacon

I had inquired with Noctua about a Redux edition F12, they said it was still too new to make it to the Redux line, but eventually it would. There will however be a P12 Redux fan coming soon, so that will offer up a radiator fan in a different color scheme. Just thought I would pass that along.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Great thanks for confirming the clearance, seems like the Noctua D15S is the way to go for quiet operation.
> 
> I haven't needed a CD drive in a long time. I made a bootable USB drive for Windows 10 via the Microsoft tool on their website. Any drivers I needed can be downloaded online, and Windows 10 does a good enough job gathering everything up automatically.


The last few installs of W10 I did came on a USB stick - I was more interested in all the Asus board drivers and that sort of thing. I'll figure it out one way or another, I really want a mITX build this time.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> The last few installs of W10 I did came on a USB stick - I was more interested in all the Asus board drivers and that sort of thing. I'll figure it out one way or another, I really want a mITX build this time.


Download Asus AI suite from their website and it has an update tool for all your hardware drivers. These days there really isn't a need for a disc drive when everything is online.


----------



## raggazam

I join the club









https://ibb.co/cENKwF


----------



## MrPlankton

Loving the feel of my new NH-D15. Almost comes across as much "finer" than the NH-D14.


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raggazam*
> 
> I join the club


Nice PC compañero


----------



## raggazam

Muchas gracias compañero!!


----------



## Piddeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Got my new system built, Noctua all around! I wanted to put the fan on the right side of the heatsink but my Dominator Platinums are slightly too tall. I plan to either get a D15s or a Corsair H115i so this U12s is only temporary until I OC.


NH-D15 does fit in a Nano-S case, I had one myself in a Nano S case.

You can even have the side panel on.



Sadly I can't find the picture when my side panel is on..but it fits well.


----------



## Arizonian

May I join?

Finally replaced stock fans with two NF-F14's *NF A-14*'s & three NF-A12's *NF F-12*'s.












Overpriced a bit for assured quality and long warranty I didn't mind. White chroma customization, aesthetically priceless.


----------



## TheBloodEagle

Looks great! No worries about splurging, a lot of us on here do.


----------



## MasakakiKairi

NF A-14s and NF F-12s


----------



## sakae48

new noctua user here... yet the seller gave me NH-U12P instead of NH-U12S..... with the invoice of U12S









my failure to check before left the store and jam everything on the case


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBloodEagle*
> 
> Looks great! No worries about splurging, a lot of us on here do.


Thank you.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasakakiKairi*
> 
> NF A-14s and NF F-12s


Nice catch heh - fixed my original post.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakae48*
> 
> new noctua user here... yet the seller gave me NH-U12P instead of NH-U12S..... with the invoice of U12S
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my failure to check before left the store and jam everything on the case










I hope you got that returned and corrected.


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you got that returned and corrected.


i asked them yesterday but they would replace if one haven't used yet.. need to beg like a dumb lil girl now


----------



## doyll

Nice looking build @Arizonian.








What are your temps and noise levels like?


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice looking build @Arizonian.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are your temps and noise levels like?


Thank you.

I was running the obsidian 450D corsair stock fans default. Two of the fans started making a tick noise so they all had to go.

Currently I left the noctua running at 600 RPM in BIOS and haven't had time to do much else. It's whisper quite to me in comparison and no motor noise at all even at this low RPM.

I can say, i noticed my Nitro R9 Fury is running 2C lower than before idle. Haven't done any testing at all. I'm going to see what's under the hood and run their legs full boar eventually when I overclock to bench the new Vega chip due out soon.

As a first time noctua owner I'm impressed by the quality. I have CM Jetfows in 2nd rig and the new CM Master-fans in my second rig, and just wanted to try anther company. Had my eyes on these noctua for a long time and glad I did.


----------



## nizinizi

I'm running Noctua NH-D15, with two fans, on my 5775C. It is really big, and I'm satisfied how it works overall. Much better than stock 5775C cooler, anyway.


----------



## toouur

Hi there, could anyone confirm whether he/she faced the following issue with Noctua NF-A14 PWM fan placed at front panel of PC case (in my case Fractal Define R5)

Here goes the video (sorry for image quality, but I guess you'll be able to hear the sound.




Defective is only one fan (top one). I've already written to Noctua's support but want to hear about your experience. Maybe it's the sort of problem which can be resolved by its own (I think something happened to a ball bearing, like balancing adjustment) and it wasn't like this even yesterday. ps. Interesting, that both of them are working on a single PWM 4pin connector with y-splitter.

Thank you in advance for your replies.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toouur*
> 
> Hi there, could anyone confirm whether he/she faced the following issue with Noctua NF-A14 PWM fan placed at front panel of PC case (in my case Fractal Define R5)
> 
> Here goes the video (sorry for image quality, but I guess you'll be able to hear the sound.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Defective is only one fan (top one). I've already written to Noctua's support but want to hear about your experience. Maybe it's the sort of problem which can be resolved by its own (I think something happened to a ball bearing, like balancing adjustment) and it wasn't like this even yesterday. ps. Interesting, that both of them are working on a single PWM 4pin connector with y-splitter.
> 
> Thank you in advance for your replies.


Yup that would drive me nuts. I've never dealt with noctua support but please keep us posted in your experience.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toouur*
> 
> Hi there, could anyone confirm whether he/she faced the following issue with Noctua NF-A14 PWM fan placed at front panel of PC case (in my case Fractal Define R5)
> 
> Here goes the video (sorry for image quality, but I guess you'll be able to hear the sound.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Defective is only one fan (top one). I've already written to Noctua's support but want to hear about your experience. Maybe it's the sort of problem which can be resolved by its own (I think something happened to a ball bearing, like balancing adjustment) and it wasn't like this even yesterday. ps. Interesting, that both of them are working on a single PWM 4pin connector with y-splitter.
> 
> Thank you in advance for your replies.


Sounds like a fan tip is striking something. Do check your path. I'm using two A14 ULN's on my R5.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Yup that would drive me nuts. I've never dealt with noctua support but please keep us posted in your experience.


I have found Noctua to be very good in customer service, i reported 1 of 8 NF-A14 PWM not having a standard rotation, like if it was not well balanced, they send me a new one free of charge, didnt ask for me to return the defective but to cut one of the blades.

On another subject, anyone knows when the Noctua 120mm PWM fan is coming, the one that seems like a Gentle Typhoon?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Yup that would drive me nuts. I've never dealt with noctua support but please keep us posted in your experience.
> 
> 
> 
> I have found Noctua to be very good in customer service, i reported 1 of 8 NF-A14 PWM not having a standard rotation, like if it was not well balanced, they send me a new one free of charge, didnt ask for me to return the defective but to cut one of the blades.
> 
> On another subject, anyone knows when the Noctua 120mm PWM fan is coming, the one that seems like a Gentle Typhoon?
Click to expand...

Probably when the Gentle Typhoon patents expire.


----------



## MasakakiKairi

Or you could just get a GT which has ball bearings and isn't brown.

P. S.

This looks rather like the other fan seen in the picture. Seems like Noctua got designs from Nidec, or are copying them.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasakakiKairi*
> 
> Or you could just get a GT which has ball bearings and isn't brown.
> 
> This looks rather like the other fan seen in the picture. Seems like Noctua got designs from Nidec, or are copying them.


Well nidec is still doing GT, they even released a PWM version, DarkSide Gentle Typhoon Performance Radiator Fan (550-1850rpm) 58cfm - Black Edition PWM, i bought one some time ago, and the lowest i was able to dorp it was around 700rpms, i wanted to test the noctuas to see how they compare, but i do want to do a build before june with dual GTX1080Ti and custom waterloop.... but will see if it comes out or not. I might give up and go into 140mm rads with the Thermalrigth TY-147ASQ.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasakakiKairi*
> 
> Or you could just get a GT which has ball bearings and isn't brown.
> 
> P. S.
> 
> This looks rather like the other fan seen in the picture. Seems like Noctua got designs from Nidec, or are copying them.


The GT was an advance on this. When GT patents expire, others can build what amounts to GT's. Noctua is a retail outfit. If they can make and sell a GT, it'll be aimed at us. It would be nice to see them take the GT IP, with patents expired, and make a 140mm fan.


----------



## toouur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Sounds like a fan tip is striking something. Do check your path. I'm using two A14 ULN's on my R5.


Nope, it wasn't, I double checked it (also it wasn't because the sound wasn't constant)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Yup that would drive me nuts. I've never dealt with noctua support but please keep us posted in your experience.


So, update. Noctua support replied in two days, asking me to perform some tests (like a fan tip is striking something, etc) and confirming, that replacement will take place if needed.
I answered that will wait for about two weeks and then tell them if I still need RMA.
By now there is no more sound from the fan after I dismounted it, tested in my hands and then mounted back, changing its position (90 degrees rotate). Don't know why, how and so on, but it's ok now for three days already. Feel happy


----------



## curryimpeh

I could be added?







, NH-D14 here


----------



## Mong Grel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> May I join?
> 
> Finally replaced stock fans with two NF-F14's *NF A-14*'s & three NF-A12's *NF F-12*'s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overpriced a bit for assured quality and long warranty I didn't mind. White chroma customization, aesthetically priceless.


I like it, was catching up on a few threads


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toouur*
> 
> So, update. Noctua support replied in two days, asking me to perform some tests (like a fan tip is striking something, etc) and confirming, that replacement will take place if needed.
> I answered that will wait for about two weeks and then tell them if I still need RMA.
> By now there is no more sound from the fan after I dismounted it, tested in my hands and then mounted back, changing its position (90 degrees rotate). Don't know why, how and so on, but it's ok now for three days already. Feel happy


Glad to hear support went smoothly. Money well spent then.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curryimpeh*
> 
> I could be added?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , NH-D14 here


I'm not sure if *@animal0307* is still updating OP
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mong Grel*
> 
> I like it, was catching up on a few threads


Thank you


----------



## Hegysk

Just randomly found this thread (Noctua fanboy&owner anyways)

I'll just leave here soundcheck of stresstested colleagues CPU build filled with Noctuas. That experience convinced me even more. Even without panels its literally dead silent. How that just doesnt make any noise? Amazing.






Cheers


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegysk*
> 
> Just randomly found this thread (Noctua fanboy&owner anyways)
> 
> I'll just leave here soundcheck of stresstested colleagues CPU build filled with Noctuas. That experience convinced me even more. Even without panels its literally dead silent. How that just doesnt make any noise? Amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers


give me some!
my NF-P12 is kinda noisy for my application


----------



## BigH88

Hi , need some honest input from the owners of the Noctua industrial fans: is the clicking sounds inherent with the new line or is that just an RMA fault that multiple people seem to be complaining about, and, if it is inherent, is it an annoying sound?

Background: I have had Noctua fans since my 2011/12 build (case fan NF F12's and an NH-D14 cooler) but it is time for an upgrade so I was considering finally going water, well, until I sat back and reflected on what I really liked about my build, and after what seemed like an elongated epiphany, I had it, it was the fan roar.

I JUST LOVE THE SOUND OF MY NOCTUAs! (Especially when you turn on your computer and hear the fans understatedly roar at max for a split second).

So I was so excited to see that in the mean time, they had introduced the black (I still have not acquired an affinity for the biege colours however even though I had looked at them every day for 5 years ). But after searching for sound tests online, I have come across multiple instances of people complaining/demonstrating the whirring sounds of the new industrial fans. I really hope they did not change their signature sound, after all it is such qualities that sells high end car - if acoustics did not matter then Porsche/BMW etc. would not need to pay through their noses for sound engineers to keep their signature sounds.

So, to the owners of the industrial 2k/3k fans, can you hear those clicking/whirring sounds, and if so, do you think they bring down the quality of the fan acoustics?

Thanks


----------



## ehume

One way to improve your air cooling is to remove your rear grill. See #2 and #7 in my sig for examples. Cover the cut edges with the plastic spines from report covers. If you add a third fan to your Noctua heatsink you can lower the rpm on all of them and enjoy a quieter case. The PWM lets them roar when they need to work.


----------



## vertical2

Some Noctua Redux goodness arrived in the mail today...


----------



## javamocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vertical2*
> 
> Some Noctua Redux goodness arrived in the mail today...


i have two of those...but it doesn't seems to blow much air... I use it as an rear exhaust and exhaust on the hdd bay on CM 690 III.

is there anything I can do to optimize the use of this particular fan?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> i have two of those...but it doesn't seems to blow much air... I use it as an rear exhaust and exhaust on the hdd bay on CM 690 III.
> 
> is there anything I can do to optimize the use of this particular fan?


You are trying to push air through a grill with a fan not really optimized for that. That's why I stick with the NF-F12. It moves plenty of air and has the pressure to push through pretty much anything.


----------



## javamocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> You are trying to push air through a grill with a fan not really optimized for that. That's why I stick with the NF-F12. It moves plenty of air and has the pressure to push through pretty much anything.


and where should i put these fans? the case is very restrictive pretty much everywhere....


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> and where should i put these fans? the case is very restrictive pretty much everywhere....


Ebay? There is a sales section here as well. Sold a few things on it.

Basically, you either live with it, mod the case, or replace the fans.


----------



## javamocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Ebay? There is a sales section here as well. Sold a few things on it.
> 
> Basically, you either live with it, mod the case, or replace the fans.


so it's basically a useless fan on case? maybe i'll sell it....i like the blade design though...

is the nf-p14 better for intake?


----------



## Prophet4NO1

The NF-P fans are pressure optimized. Like the NF-F ones. So, they push/pull through restrictions better.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vertical2*
> 
> Some Noctua Redux goodness arrived in the mail today...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have two of those...but it doesn't seems to blow much air... I use it as an rear exhaust and exhaust on the hdd bay on CM 690 III.
> 
> is there anything I can do to optimize the use of this particular fan?
Click to expand...

To optimize the use of this fan, remove your rear grill (cover the cut edges with Gorilla Tape or the spines of plastic review covers). Or use them mid-case like so:



Intakes are a pair of NF-P12's. Mid-case is an NF-S12B, the successor to what he had in his box. Note that the rear grill has been removed.


----------



## vertical2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> i have two of those...but it doesn't seems to blow much air... I use it as an rear exhaust and exhaust on the hdd bay on CM 690 III.
> 
> is there anything I can do to optimize the use of this particular fan?


Regrets that it took a few days to respond...been busy at work.
Yeah, I just installed the fan as an exhaust in the rear to supplement a 140 exhausting out the top. I would only use it as an exhaust as it is a low static pressure model. In this case I was looking for quiet and reliability.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vertical2*
> 
> Regrets that it took a few days to respond...been busy at work.
> Yeah, I just installed the fan as an exhaust in the rear to supplement a 140 exhausting out the top. I would only use it as an exhaust as it is a low static pressure model. In this case I was looking for quiet and reliability.


Think about what you said for a second. Then look at your case. See that grill you are pushing air through? That's when you want a static pressure fan.







That's the same sort of resistance you get from heat sinks and radiators. Same problem to overcome. As posted above by ehume, they really only work well in open and unrestricted areas.


----------



## vertical2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Think about what you said for a second. Then look at your case. See that grill you are pushing air through? That's when you want a static pressure fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's the same sort of resistance you get from heat sinks and radiators. Same problem to overcome. As posted above by ehume, they really only work well in open and unrestricted areas.


Hi

I'm traveling so I need to make it short.

While I'm not an expert regarding fan technology, my experience has been that flow based fans like the redux work fine for case exhaust.

Yes, the higher the resistance to airflow, the higher the need for static pressure. The higher resistance scenarios in a PC case include water radiators, CPU towers, and front intakes (especially when there's a filter inside the grill). The rear exhaust is one of the standard fan locations with the least resistance. Sure there's a grill, yet there's open air behind it vs other components and the inside of a container (the case itself) that we may want to pressurize.

Again , my view and experience.


----------



## javamocha

I can live with those fans....didn't have the heart to cut the grill. Love the case







...shame Noctua didn't have SP 120 fan in Redux line...


----------



## Martin778

Guys, last year in june Linus has shown a prototype Gentle Typhoon-like Noctua fan. Is there any more info on it?





I swear if Noctua had full black fans with red accents divided into AF/SP they would sell like warm buns.
Hell, of they had their Gentle Typhoons and in both 120 and 140mm variants I can assure you my case would have been full of them.

They've also shown Chromax covers on the D15 and nothing has been released, why?


----------



## Darkbreeze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vertical2*
> 
> Hi
> 
> I'm traveling so I need to make it short.
> 
> While I'm not an expert regarding fan technology, my experience has been that flow based fans like the redux work fine for case exhaust.
> 
> Yes, the higher the resistance to airflow, the higher the need for static pressure. The higher resistance scenarios in a PC case include water radiators, CPU towers, and front intakes (especially when there's a filter inside the grill). The rear exhaust is one of the standard fan locations with the least resistance. Sure there's a grill, yet there's open air behind it vs other components and the inside of a container (the case itself) that we may want to pressurize.
> 
> Again , my view and experience.


Exactly right. The grillwork of ANY exhaust port, unless for some crazy reason you were using an additional filter on it, is nowhere near the level of restriction you would find with a radiator, as an intake or through most CPU heatsinks. The rear and top exhaust ports ARE the locations you can suitably use lower static pressure, but higher unrestricted airflow spec'd fans. Again, high static pressure fans, generally any fan over 1.5 mm H20 static pressure, are only really necessary, to varying degrees based on specific configuration (But not necessarily LIMITED to) when used as intake, radiator and heat sink fans.

And I'm also not an expert, but I've certainly done years of due diligence when it comes to reading, researching and comparing performance of PC and industrial case fans for my own purposes.

Good luck.


----------



## Darkbreeze

I've been saying for years that if Noctua would just offer solid black fan models, they'd grossly outsell every other fan manufacturer. In fact, I think that's one of the more commonly accepted scenarios among PC enthusiasts.


----------



## ehume

Grills vary in the amount of airflow they let through. I have seen a Silverstone article that compares the various types. But if you want to see what your fan does with your grill take it off and hold it 6in/15cm away. Feel what bounces off. Feel what goes through. Doing this is very enlightening. Data beats theory every time.


----------



## Darkbreeze

https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/

http://gardtecinc.com/university/airflow_paper.pdf

Exactly.


----------



## Martin778

My 4x120mm at the bottom of the 900D get very annoying on high RPM because of the honeycomb-like grill








Opening the panel helps a tiny bit but looks garbage.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/
> 
> http://gardtecinc.com/university/airflow_paper.pdf
> 
> Exactly.


And that is why I always use pressure fans where I can.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin778*
> 
> My 4x120mm at the bottom of the 900D get very annoying on high RPM because of the honeycomb-like grill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Opening the panel helps a tiny bit but looks garbage.


Yeah, even at low RPM I can here the whiring noise from my rad. Open it, and it mostly goes away. Thought about just cutting the mesh out. Maybe put wire grills over the fans.


----------



## verytiny

noctua has their 200mm fan posted on their website

http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a20-pwm
http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a20-flx


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *verytiny*
> 
> noctua has their 200mm fan posted on their website
> 
> http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a20-pwm
> http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a20-flx


OMG! Someone please check the temp in hell. Worried it's frozen over.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *verytiny*
> 
> noctua has their 200mm fan posted on their website
> 
> http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a20-pwm
> http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a20-flx


Thanks for the info.
Sadly it 's only 86.46cfm and 1.08mm H2O @ 800rpm


----------



## TheBloodEagle

Now to wait for the Industrial version.


----------



## Drags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *verytiny*
> 
> noctua has their 200mm fan posted on their website
> 
> http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a20-pwm
> http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a20-flx


they have had info's out since forever, but afaik there still is no availability or even a date for release... I kinda gave up on them.


----------



## javamocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBloodEagle*
> 
> Now to wait for the Industrial version.


yeah...with jet engine sound...


----------



## Prophet4NO1

The Cooler Master ones turn at about the same speeds and push a LOT more air. Low noise too. Kind of disappointed after the long wait.


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> yeah...with jet engine sound...


i was imagining a helicopter sound.


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> i was imagining a helicopter sound.


want to hear my papst fan?


----------



## czin125

Is that new noctua 120mm coming out soon too? No 140mm with similar fan blades?


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *czin125*
> 
> Is that new noctua 120mm coming out soon too?


The NF-A12x25 is scheduled for release in Q3 2017


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *czin125*
> 
> Is that new noctua 120mm coming out soon too?
> 
> 
> 
> The NF-A12x25 is scheduled for release in Q3 2017
Click to expand...

The model number suggests Noctua anticipates there might be a thickness other than 25mm rolling down the pike.


----------



## claes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *verytiny*
> 
> noctua has their 200mm fan posted on their website
> 
> http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a20-pwm
> http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a20-flx


Now leads to 404


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claes*
> 
> Now leads to 404


Left hand not knowing what right is doing .. maybe development and marketing. Development says it's almost ready so marketing adds it to inventory instead of waiting to add when fan has been build and is ready to sell.


----------



## cptissues

NH-D15 barely fits in my case but does the job!


----------



## jura11

Noctua expanded its A-series of premium-quality quiet cooling fans with new 200mm, 120mm and 40mm models. Thanks to the series' signature features such as Flow Acceleration Channels and AAO (Advanced Acoustic Optimisation) frames, the new NF-A20, NF-A12x15 and NF-A4x20 provide performance and quietness of operation.

All models come with Noctua's trusted SSO2 bearings and a full 6-year manufacturer's warranty. In addition to the new fans, Noctua introduced the new NA-FC1 fan controller, NA-SAV3 and NA-SAV4 anti-vibration mounts and NA-SAC5 S-ATA power adaptor cable.

"Customers have been asking us for 20cm and slim 12cm fans for years, but meeting the quality standard users have come to expect from Noctua fans in these form factors has proven very challenging, so it took us quite some time to make sure that these fans live up to our name", explains Roland Mossig (Noctua CEO). "The NF-A4x20 has been conceived following requests by our industrial clients who are looking for a 40mm fan that provides superior performance in pressure-demanding applications as compared to the existing NF-A4x10."

With the 20cm NF-A20, Noctua's biggest fan yet, the key challenge was that the mass of the impeller is about four times greater than that of 12 or 14cm fans and thus creates a significantly higher load on the bearing. In the end, the difficulties were overcome by increasing the diameter of the axis and the bearing from 3mm to 4mm in order to distribute the load over a larger bearing surface, as well as by using a new fibreglass reinforced polypropylene (PP) material, which reduces the mass of the impeller by 26% as compared to Noctua's standard fibreglass reinforced PBT material.

For the 12cm NF-A12x15, a steel-reinforced motor hub and brass axle mount are being used in order to assure the required stability despite the fan's 15mm thin profile. Both the NF-A20 and the NF-A12x15 will come in 4-pin PWM versions for automatic speed control and 3-pin FLX versions that include Low-Noise and Ultra-Low-Noise adaptors, which give full flexibility in configuring the fan for maximum cooling capacity or near-silent acoustics.

The NF-A4x20 complements Noctua's popular NF-A4x10 models: With 20 rather than 10mm thickness, the NF-A4x20 is better suited for applications that require higher pressure performance such as in servers or tightly packed enclosures. The NF-A4x20 will come in 12V 4-pin PWM and 12V 3-pin FLX versions for PC use and other 12V applications as well as in dedicated 5V and 5V PWM versions, which are ideal replacement fans for 5V-based switches, routers, DVRs or other devices.

All of the new fans share the A-series' renowned quiet cooling performance as well as signature features such as Flow Acceleration Channels, Advanced Acoustic Optimisation (AAO) frames or SSO2 bearings. Like all A-series fans, the new NF-A20, NF-A12x15 and NF-A4x20 have an MTTF rating of more than 150,000 hours and come with a full 6-year manufacturer's warranty.

In addition to the new quiet cooling fans, Noctua expanded its range of fan accessories: The new NA-FC1 is a compact, highly flexible controller for 4-pin PWM fans that can both work on its own for manual speed reduction and also work in tandem with the automatic motherboard fan control. By adjusting the NA-FC1's speed control dial, users can either manually set a PWM duty cycle from 0 to 100% or reduce the PWM duty cycle supplied by PC motherboards in order to have the fans running slower than the automatic motherboard fan control would allow. Thanks to the supplied 3-way split cable and power supply adaptor, up to 3 fans can be controlled simultaneously.

The new NA-SAV3 and NA-SAV4 silicone anti-vibration mounts have five defined, numbered pawls that allow them to work perfectly with both standard open corner fans and 10, 14, 15, 20 or 25mm thick fans with closed corners. This makes the new mounts ideal for slim fans such as the new NF-A12x15 where other anti-vibration mounts may not fit properly. While the NA-SAV feature a double-side design that makes them much easier to work with in space-restricted environments or placements where the fan's mounting holes are difficult to reach, the NA-AV4 have a flat case-side end that is flush with the case panel and thus provides for a clean exterior look.

The new NA-SAC5 is a fully sleeved S-ATA to 4-pin power adaptor cable. It is compatible with both 3-pin and 4-pin fans and allows them to be powered directly from the power supply's S-ATA connectors. Combined with the existing NA-SYC1 y-cables, the NA-SAC5 is ideal for powering multiple high-wattage fans without risking damage to the motherboard fan header.

Prices and availability
All of the new products are currently shipping and will be available shortly. The suggested retail prices are as follows:

NF-A20 PWM: EUR 29.90 / USD 29.90
NF-A20 FLX: EUR 29.90 / USD 29.90
NF-A12x15 PWM: EUR 19.90 / USD 19.90
NF-A12x15 FLX: EUR 19.90 / USD 19.90
NF-A4x20 PWM: EUR 14.90 / USD 14.90
NF-A4x20 FLX: EUR 14.90 / USD 14.90
NF-A4x20 5V PWM: EUR 14.90 / USD 14.90
NF-A4x20 5V: EUR 14.90 / USD 14.90
NA-FC1: EUR 19.90 / USD 19.90
NA-SAV3: EUR 7.90 / USD 7.90
NA-SAV4: EUR 7.90 / USD 7.90
NA-SAC5: EUR 7.90 / USD 7.90

http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/noctua_introduces_new_a_series_fans_and_accessories.html


----------



## jd63636

Just completed my transition from Aio back to Air


----------



## Mr0czny

NH-D15s with Thermalright TY-143 fan







anyone try to paint heatsink ? (Plastidip, powdercoat, anodizing) ?


----------



## javamocha

I think Noctua should design HSF with top cover like on the Cryorig's tower HSF lineups...with brown color and with RGB Noctua logo....

btw...is it ok to use single fan on D-15, how's the heat distribution on the fanless tower, because my cpu temp have strange fluctuation...


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> I think Noctua should design HSF with top cover like on the Cryorig's tower HSF lineups...with brown color and with RGB Noctua logo....
> 
> btw...is it ok to use single fan on D-15, how's the heat distribution on the fanless tower, because my cpu temp have strange fluctuation...


Depends on your temps. My temps lowered from 5-7C when attached the second fan on.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Noctua expanded its A-series of premium-quality quiet cooling fans with new 200mm, 120mm and 40mm models. Thanks to the series' signature features such as Flow Acceleration Channels and AAO (Advanced Acoustic Optimisation) frames, the new NF-A20, NF-A12x15 and NF-A4x20 provide performance and quietness of operation.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> All models come with Noctua's trusted SSO2 bearings and a full 6-year manufacturer's warranty. In addition to the new fans, Noctua introduced the new NA-FC1 fan controller, NA-SAV3 and NA-SAV4 anti-vibration mounts and NA-SAC5 S-ATA power adaptor cable.
> 
> "Customers have been asking us for 20cm and slim 12cm fans for years, but meeting the quality standard users have come to expect from Noctua fans in these form factors has proven very challenging, so it took us quite some time to make sure that these fans live up to our name", explains Roland Mossig (Noctua CEO). "The NF-A4x20 has been conceived following requests by our industrial clients who are looking for a 40mm fan that provides superior performance in pressure-demanding applications as compared to the existing NF-A4x10."
> 
> With the 20cm NF-A20, Noctua's biggest fan yet, the key challenge was that the mass of the impeller is about four times greater than that of 12 or 14cm fans and thus creates a significantly higher load on the bearing. In the end, the difficulties were overcome by increasing the diameter of the axis and the bearing from 3mm to 4mm in order to distribute the load over a larger bearing surface, as well as by using a new fibreglass reinforced polypropylene (PP) material, which reduces the mass of the impeller by 26% as compared to Noctua's standard fibreglass reinforced PBT material.
> 
> For the 12cm NF-A12x15, a steel-reinforced motor hub and brass axle mount are being used in order to assure the required stability despite the fan's 15mm thin profile. Both the NF-A20 and the NF-A12x15 will come in 4-pin PWM versions for automatic speed control and 3-pin FLX versions that include Low-Noise and Ultra-Low-Noise adaptors, which give full flexibility in configuring the fan for maximum cooling capacity or near-silent acoustics.
> 
> The NF-A4x20 complements Noctua's popular NF-A4x10 models: With 20 rather than 10mm thickness, the NF-A4x20 is better suited for applications that require higher pressure performance such as in servers or tightly packed enclosures. The NF-A4x20 will come in 12V 4-pin PWM and 12V 3-pin FLX versions for PC use and other 12V applications as well as in dedicated 5V and 5V PWM versions, which are ideal replacement fans for 5V-based switches, routers, DVRs or other devices.
> 
> All of the new fans share the A-series' renowned quiet cooling performance as well as signature features such as Flow Acceleration Channels, Advanced Acoustic Optimisation (AAO) frames or SSO2 bearings. Like all A-series fans, the new NF-A20, NF-A12x15 and NF-A4x20 have an MTTF rating of more than 150,000 hours and come with a full 6-year manufacturer's warranty.
> 
> In addition to the new quiet cooling fans, Noctua expanded its range of fan accessories: The new NA-FC1 is a compact, highly flexible controller for 4-pin PWM fans that can both work on its own for manual speed reduction and also work in tandem with the automatic motherboard fan control. By adjusting the NA-FC1's speed control dial, users can either manually set a PWM duty cycle from 0 to 100% or reduce the PWM duty cycle supplied by PC motherboards in order to have the fans running slower than the automatic motherboard fan control would allow. Thanks to the supplied 3-way split cable and power supply adaptor, up to 3 fans can be controlled simultaneously.
> 
> The new NA-SAV3 and NA-SAV4 silicone anti-vibration mounts have five defined, numbered pawls that allow them to work perfectly with both standard open corner fans and 10, 14, 15, 20 or 25mm thick fans with closed corners. This makes the new mounts ideal for slim fans such as the new NF-A12x15 where other anti-vibration mounts may not fit properly. While the NA-SAV feature a double-side design that makes them much easier to work with in space-restricted environments or placements where the fan's mounting holes are difficult to reach, the NA-AV4 have a flat case-side end that is flush with the case panel and thus provides for a clean exterior look.
> 
> The new NA-SAC5 is a fully sleeved S-ATA to 4-pin power adaptor cable. It is compatible with both 3-pin and 4-pin fans and allows them to be powered directly from the power supply's S-ATA connectors. Combined with the existing NA-SYC1 y-cables, the NA-SAC5 is ideal for powering multiple high-wattage fans without risking damage to the motherboard fan header.
> 
> Prices and availability
> All of the new products are currently shipping and will be available shortly. The suggested retail prices are as follows:
> 
> NF-A20 PWM: EUR 29.90 / USD 29.90
> NF-A20 FLX: EUR 29.90 / USD 29.90
> NF-A12x15 PWM: EUR 19.90 / USD 19.90
> NF-A12x15 FLX: EUR 19.90 / USD 19.90
> NF-A4x20 PWM: EUR 14.90 / USD 14.90
> NF-A4x20 FLX: EUR 14.90 / USD 14.90
> NF-A4x20 5V PWM: EUR 14.90 / USD 14.90
> NF-A4x20 5V: EUR 14.90 / USD 14.90
> NA-FC1: EUR 19.90 / USD 19.90
> NA-SAV3: EUR 7.90 / USD 7.90
> NA-SAV4: EUR 7.90 / USD 7.90
> NA-SAC5: EUR 7.90 / USD 7.90
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/news_story/noctua_introduces_new_a_series_fans_and_accessories.html


slim 120mm http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a12x15-flx
slim 120mm PWM http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a12x15-pwm

Noticed a lower static pressure rating , with the LNA to drop max speed to 1400RPM it has lower static pressure rating than the NF-S12A

200mm PWM http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a20-pwm
200mm (voltage version) http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a20-flx

fan controller http://noctua.at/en/products/accessories/na-fc1


----------



## javamocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Depends on your temps. My temps lowered from 5-7C when attached the second fan on.


well, maybe I should try with 2 fans, and compare the temps.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Depends on your temps. My temps lowered from 5-7C when attached the second fan on.


Without knowing what the cooler intake air temp is we have no accurate way of knowing if adding a 2nd fan to cooler improved cooler performance or if it changed case airflow paths so cooler us using air that is a few degrees cooler.

At a guess your 5-7c drop is a combination of both cooler air and more airflow. Case airflow paths change quite easily .. and usually changing fan speed or placement changes flow paths .. meaning some things get cooler air.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javamocha*
> 
> well, maybe I should try with 2 fans, and compare the temps.


Yea, you should try if it helps as it's not big hassle








And just to specify, the temps were CPU core temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Without knowing what the cooler intake air temp is we have no accurate way of knowing if adding a 2nd fan to cooler improved cooler performance or if it changed case airflow paths so cooler us using air that is a few degrees cooler.
> 
> At a guess your 5-7c drop is a combination of both cooler air and more airflow. Case airflow paths change quite easily .. and usually changing fan speed or placement changes flow paths .. meaning some things get cooler air.


Yea you are right.

At my case, when using only 1 fan at the middle, it looks like it doesn't get much cool airflow there as I have quite big gpu cooler and much stuff inside the case.


----------



## javamocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MooMoo*
> 
> Yea, you should try if it helps as it's not big hassle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just to specify, the temps were CPU core temps.
> Yea you are right.
> 
> At my case, when using only 1 fan at the middle, it looks like it doesn't get much cool airflow there as I have quite big gpu cooler and much stuff inside the case.


well...mine looks hideous...the ram are too tall...the fan almost hit the side panel...maybe i use a single fan instead, since the temps are not that high.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr0czny*
> 
> NH-D15s with Thermalright TY-143 fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone try to paint heatsink ? (Plastidip, powdercoat, anodizing) ?


Nice, another Hex Gear case. I have the big brother of this case myself. Best case ever.
It's rare to see a completely aircooled build in a Hex gear case. Nicely done.


----------



## orion933

Hello !

I have an issue with my noctua nh-u14s
At 100% fan speed; it goes to 1060rpm max while it seems the max rpm are 1500.
I set it to turbo in bios but it never go beyond 1060rpm

Someone can help me please









thank you


----------



## Darkbreeze

You might be using the L.N.A, Low noise adapter, which some people think is a cable extension, but is in fact a kind of voltage reducer that won't allow the device to achieve it's maximum speed at any given voltage. If you are, unplug the cable, take the adapter off the end of the fan's four pin cable, and then plug the fan cable back into the cpu_fan header.


----------



## Kravicka

Is it normal that my nh-d15 is kinda cool while full load, but cpu temp are high ? 83°C


----------



## asciii

Removed.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kravicka*
> 
> Is it normal that my nh-d15 is kinda cool while full load, but cpu temp are high ? 83°C


Hi there

Have run NH-D15 on 5820k and I have seen only 83°C with 4.6Ghz OC with 1.31v and with 4.5Ghz and 1.279v I've seen 68-72°C in OCCT

At what SW or what stress SW did you saw 83°C

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Kravicka

paste is like 2 months old, its like almost in every SW.

I am just curious, if u have whole cooler hot or just little bit near cpu.

I just wanted to avoid unmouting the cooler.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kravicka*
> 
> paste is like 2 months old, its like almost in every SW.
> 
> I am just curious, if u have whole cooler hot or just little bit near cpu.
> 
> I just wanted to avoid unmouting the cooler.


Hi there

What CPU do you have ?

In my case I've used like Kryonaut or NT-H1 and I've stayed with Kryonaut on my NH-D15

Not sure what you mean with that,but if yours cooler is hot on touch then something is wrong there,CPU cooler shouldn't be hot,should be only warm or cold,I've never touch my during the stress tests as my temps has been pretty amazing but this in yours case high temps would be ambient temperature dependent there

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## Kravicka

It is kinda cold/amb temp warm and cpu at 83°C ..it's like 3/4 of cooler is useless.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kravicka*
> 
> Is it normal that my nh-d15 is kinda cool while full load, but cpu temp are high ? 83°C


While 83c sound quite warm, without knowing what your system is we have no way of knowing if that is 'normal' or not.. What is your system? CPU and overclcok, cas/e case fans, fans speeds to temp curve, room temp, temp of airflow going into cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kravicka*
> 
> paste is like 2 months old, its like almost in every SW.
> 
> I am just curious, if u have whole cooler hot or just little bit near cpu.
> 
> I just wanted to avoid unmouting the cooler.


How much TIM did you use and how did you apply it?

Coolers do not get very warm. The warmest part is the base on the CPU. The heatpipes flow hot vapor out to the ends where is condenses to liquid and wicks back to base. The finpacks radiate the heat from heatpipe to air.


----------



## Kravicka

My point isnt temp of the CPU, so u dont need specs, I just wanted to know something like this
Quote:


> Coolers do not get very warm. The warmest part is the base on the CPU. The heatpipes flow hot vapor out to the ends where is condenses to liquid and wicks back to base. The finpacks radiate the heat from heatpipe to air.


because my logic was like CPU is hot so it must warm cooler pretty hot too.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kravicka*
> 
> My point isnt temp of the CPU, so u dont need specs, I just wanted to know something like this
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Coolers do not get very warm. The warmest part is the base on the CPU. The heatpipes flow hot vapor out to the ends where is condenses to liquid and wicks back to base. The finpacks radiate the heat from heatpipe to air.
> 
> 
> 
> because my logic was like CPU is hot so it must warm cooler pretty hot too.
Click to expand...

You can actually measure your core temps (I prefer Real Temp). There is no need to guess at what your core temps are.

I have only felt a warm fin stack when I have turned off the fan of a heatsink (I do this to test silent running).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kravicka*
> 
> My point isnt temp of the CPU, so u dont need specs, I just wanted to know something like this
> because my logic was like CPU is hot so it must warm cooler pretty hot too.


The questions I asked give me the information needed to answer your questions .
Your logic is flawed because it is incomplete.
I asked for info. you don't think it;s needed .. sorry I tried to help.


----------



## orion933

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> You might be using the L.N.A, Low noise adapter, which some people think is a cable extension, but is in fact a kind of voltage reducer that won't allow the device to achieve it's maximum speed at any given voltage. If you are, unplug the cable, take the adapter off the end of the fan's four pin cable, and then plug the fan cable back into the cpu_fan header.


thank you ! it was indeed the LNA


----------



## Kravicka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While 83c sound quite warm, without knowing what your system is we have no way of knowing if that is 'normal' or not.. What is your system? CPU and overclcok, cas/e case fans, fans speeds to temp curve, room temp, temp of airflow going into cooler.
> How much TIM did you use and how did you apply it?


If u really need to know..

https://valid.x86.fr/tn7n0m
i tried X pattern of thermal paste
cache is at 1.15V, VRM 1.92 i think

Nh-d15 2x stock noctua fans, front intake 2x 120mm, down intake 1x 140mm, back exhaust 1x 120mm, top exhaust 2x 140mm


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kravicka*
> 
> If u really need to know..
> 
> https://valid.x86.fr/tn7n0m
> i tried X pattern of thermal paste
> cache is at 1.15V, VRM 1.92 i think
> 
> Nh-d15 2x stock noctua fans, front intake 2x 120mm, down intake 1x 140mm, back exhaust 1x 120mm, top exhaust 2x 140mm


That's quite low voltage for 4.5Ghz and i7-5820k, running my at 1.279v and 4.5Ghz

What's yours ambient temperatures are?

With 22°C I can keep my 5820k at 72-75°C, with 17-20°C PKG won't go beyond 70°C

With higher ambient temperature its hard then keep CPU cool like on air or water

I've not used on my X pattern,I've got good experience with rice sized dot in the middle

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kravicka*
> 
> Is it normal that my nh-d15 is kinda cool while full load, but cpu temp are high ? 83°C


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kravicka*
> 
> If u really need to know..
> 
> https://valid.x86.fr/tn7n0m
> i tried X pattern of thermal paste
> cache is at 1.15V, VRM 1.92 i think
> 
> Nh-d15 2x stock noctua fans, front intake 2x 120mm, down intake 1x 140mm, back exhaust 1x 120mm, top exhaust 2x 140mm


You probably used way too much TIM. Generally less TIM is better than more.







Here is a guilde to how TIM use.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22335323
2x 120 front intakes, what is 'down intake? Is the 83c temp when gaming?


----------



## Kravicka

ambient temp 25-27°C



83°C is while 100% cpu with some bench/stress app, 81°C aida64 without FPU jus cpu and cache.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kravicka*
> 
> ambient temp 25-27°C
> 
> 
> 
> 83°C is while 100% cpu with some bench/stress app, 81°C aida64 without FPU jus cpu and cache.



Front fan of the 2x top fans is probably drawing GPU heated air up in front of CPU cooler. Try unplugging it. I use a simple low cost indoor/outdoor thermometer to monitor case airflow different places, like in front of CPU and GPU cooler. http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319171
I suggest removing all unused PCIe back slot covers to allow more airflow front to back around GPU. This usually helps lower both CPU & GPU temps by flowing GPU's heated exhaust air back and out of case.
Here is a link to basics of how airflow works and how to optimize case airflow. http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319249
In my opinion bottom intakes (PSU and case) do not have enough clearance between bottom of case and what case sets on. Explained here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22657923
If you wish to discuss this in more detail please start a thread so we do not clutter the Noctua Club thread.


----------



## epic1337

side panel exhaust can help divert GPU hot air to exhaust directly instead of going over the top of the case.
the side panel fans can be at it's lowest RPM state, since you don't need a strong suction force, just enough to divert the hot air.

i previously had this problem with my CPU having ~50c idle ~70c load, flipped the side panel fan to exhaust and it was down ~40c idle ~60c load.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> side panel exhaust can help divert GPU hot air to exhaust directly instead of going over the top of the case.
> the side panel fans can be at it's lowest RPM state, since you don't need a strong suction force, just enough to divert the hot air.
> 
> i previously had this problem with my CPU having ~50c idle ~70c load, flipped the side panel fan to exhaust and it was down ~40c idle ~60c load.


To clarify, side panel venting (intake, exhaust or not used at all may or may not help cooling. The changes of it helping or hindering are maybe 50/50.

The key to cool running components having case airflow that supplies cool air to components and moves heated air out of case. If this is not done and the component's heated exhaust air is not kept separate from it's cool intake air the system will run hotter and noisier than it will with optimized airflow.

But we need to move this airflow discussion to a new thread not clutter up the Noctua Club thread.


----------



## AlphaC

http://www.dvtests.com/computex-2017-noctua/
Quote:


> chromax edition fans of the award-winning NF-A15, NF-A14, NFF12and NF-S12A
> Black fan and frame design
> Includes 4 swappable anti-vibration pads in black, white, red, blue, green and yellow
> Further anti-vibration pads are available separately


& Next generation 140mm A-series fan
& Next generation 120mm A-series fan
& Slim 140mm A-series fan
& Next-generation 120mm U-type heatsink (7 heatpipes instead of 5, +50% surface area)
& Next-generation 140mm U-type heatsink (7 heatpipes instead of 6, +30% surface area)

2nd source: http://www.pcgameshardware.de/CPU-Kuehler-Hardware-255512/News/Kuehler-fuer-Threadripper-und-Co-schwarze-NF-A14-NF-F12-1229114/





Thoughts: they could sell tons of the Next gen fans if they keep them clear.


----------



## TheNoseKnows

NF-A14s of all variants (PWM/ULN/FLX/Industrial) are being discontinued today by a couple of major UK online retailers (Aria and ebuyer), with no plans to restock in the future. Is this just some business decision on their part, or do they know something we don't?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNoseKnows*
> 
> NF-A14s of all variants (PWM/ULN/FLX/Industrial) are being discontinued today by a couple of major UK online retailers (Aria and ebuyer), with no plans to restock in the future. Is this just some business decision on their part, or do they know something we don't?


Noctua lists it as a discontinued product, IIRC.


----------



## verytiny

which direction should the fans be facing on nh-c14s? i am using a thermaltake core v1 but i can put the right side panel on the top


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *verytiny*
> 
> which direction should the fans be facing on nh-c14s? i am using a thermaltake core v1 but i can put the right side panel on the top


Typically low profile coolers flow air toward motherboard, but this often results in their re-using their own heated air and running hotter than if the move air away from motherboard.
Link below shows why.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22323763


----------



## izmash

so just looking at my "AMD set" mounts that came with my dh-d15s it looks like it would work with my AM4 board thoughts? already sent my form to noctua to get my am4 mounts but do i even need them?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *izmash*
> 
> so just looking at my "AMD set" mounts that came with my dh-d15s it looks like it would work with my AM4 board thoughts? already sent my form to noctua to get my am4 mounts but do i even need them?


Only thought I have is "what the heck does your mount look like?"

Here is AM3 and older hole spacing compared to AM4 hole spacing.


----------



## doyll

I just saw some information on new Noctua fans. The one that caught my eye is the baby poo brown GT.










-not-offer-rgb-fans.html



All kidding aside, I suspect this new brown GT will be a better fan than original. Stiffer blade construction, quieter motor, PWM, etc.[IMG 

Quote:


> Max airflow ratings and max pressure ratings don't mean much at all. Maximum airflow is measured at zero pressure, so that means the fan is not even operating in free air; there is zero pressure difference between the two sides. So it's basically operating in vacuum. Not a realistic application. Maximum pressure is at zero airflow. that's the fan blowing against a closed wall. Not a realistic application either.
> 
> With all the A-series fans, the idea is to basically get rid of that distinction between pressure and airflow optimization.
> 
> What you really want to know is how much air the fan can push against realistic resistance, and this is what you see in the mid part of the curve. And when looking at the resistance curves and impedance curves of a typical PC case, fairly low resistance, but still way more than vacuum. Where it really shines is on air cooling heatsinks where it can push way more air than the NF-F12, and on watercooling radiators where it can push way more air than the current generation.
> 
> We were surprised, to be honest, in the end, that we could make the performance that good at the airflow end of the spectrum as well. But with all the A-series fans, the idea is to basically get rid of that distinction between pressure and airflow optimization, because it is confusing for a lot of customers. A lot of customers don't know what to shop for. Some just think static pressure is better, for some reason, and buy it for case usage, and then are dissatisfied. So we think it's safer and easier for the customer if there's one fan that does it all..


Jakob Dellinger, Noctua

Construction is changing from PBT to a thermotropic LCP called Sterrox I think this change is a good move. Sterrox is a liquid crystal polymer, part of the same family as Kevlar. Sterrox also cost is roughly four times as high as PBT. While the use of thermotropic LCP (liquid crystal polymers) is nothing new, it's use in fans should make the impeller blades much stronger,stiffer and less chance of changing shape with use .. and also less prone to vibration and related noise.

I got much of this information from article by Wes Fenlon on PC Gamer site.
http://www.pcgamer.com/noctua-spent-four-and-a-half-years-designing-its-quietest-strongest-fan-yet/


----------



## LocutusH

Noctua teases the GT lookalike since 2 years at least... i believe it, when its available to buy.


----------



## doyll

4 years in development and still no official model number .. so who knows when if might be released.


----------



## izmash

admittedly i just held the mount up t the screws in the case so it just looks like they would fit wasnt sure how different the mounts form am3 and am4 were so your picture helps.


----------



## 0ppositeLock

Noctua rep says the Gt copy will be more expensive than current fans due to the blade material.


----------



## TheBloodEagle

Curious, why does the hub look that way on GT designs?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ppositeLock*
> 
> Noctua rep says the Gt copy will be more expensive than current fans due to the blade material.


If he had said higher cost is because of high development costs it would be more believable. While it is true that the cost of material in the fan is 4x as expensive, that makes it $0.32 instead of $0.08. Obviously not a big deal.

The best part of the interview is his explanation of airflow .. how static pressure and free airflow specs mean almost nothing (6:00), but what is happening to airlfow when there is some resistance . i

He explains why static pressure & airflow rating mean almost nothing but how important the airflow against resistance is in their P/Q curve graph (6:00)

Also notice his explanation of cooler temperature changes do to heat / airflow changes in close proximity of fan / cooler ((8:11).

These are the same explanations I've been preaching for years ..

P/Q curve at different RPM for fans shows us how the fan performs in actual use.
How important it is to monitor temperature of air going into cooler when testing cooler because slight changes is airflow / air temperature going into cooler are not the same as the room temperature .. and even small changes is airflow temp into cooler change CPU temperature.
Any review not using the temperature of air actually going into cooler is inaccurate. Even more so when testing in a case. Testing in a case is not comparing cooler to cooler performance. It is comparing test system performance with different coolers, so unless you have an identical system their test results are of little use.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBloodEagle*
> 
> Curious, why does the hub look that way on GT designs?


Because it is the same impeller design, but made with better material and baby poo brown.









It will be very interesting to see test results and find out how much (if any) the difference are between these new A series GT and real GTs.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 4 years in development and still no official model number .. so who knows when if might be released.


That's the NF-A12 x25, there's also a x15 (15 mm thick) version already out.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBloodEagle*
> 
> Curious, why does the hub look that way on GT designs?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's the NF-A12 x25, there's also a x15 (15 mm thick) version already out.


Noctua specs say 54.44cfm & 1.53mm H2O.
Impressive for a 15mm thick fan.


----------



## epic1337

certainly good, i wonder if the revised NH-L12 with the slim fan would be better than the previous version.
according to their display, the revised NH-L12 will only have a single 120x15mm fan, compared to the old NH-L12 with 120x25mm and 92x25mm fans.

other than the fan change, theres no notable difference in the structure, so i can't visually tell whether they've improved the design or not.


----------



## doyll

By comparison Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm is rated 58cfm and 1.29mm H2O


----------



## epic1337

http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a12x15-flx/specification
https://www.quietpc.com/nf-a12x15-flx

its certainly is surprising enough, anything on it's static pressure to airflow curve?
i can't imagine it having both high static pressure and high airflow at the same time.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epic1337*
> 
> http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a12x15-flx/specification
> https://www.quietpc.com/nf-a12x15-flx
> 
> its certainly is surprising enough, anything on it's static pressure to airflow curve?
> i can't imagine it having both high static pressure and high airflow at the same time.


Of course it does not have airflow at static pressure rating. Static pressure is pressure at the point air stops moving.









I too am very interested in seeing it's P/Q curve.


----------



## 0ppositeLock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If he had said higher cost is because of high development costs it would be more believable. While it is true that the cost of material in the fan is 4x as expensive, that makes it $0.32 instead of $0.08. Obviously not a big deal.


Ha, true. Noctua should at least offer them in black if they're going to cost more.


----------



## TheBloodEagle

In the video they did say about $30+ per fan.


----------



## 0ppositeLock

Probably USD. Which will be about $45 AUD, with the usual markups we get down here.


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Of course it does not have airflow at static pressure rating. Static pressure is pressure at the point air stops moving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I too am very interested in seeing it's P/Q curve.


i was implying that the pressure or airflow remains somewhat high on the curve, normally these types of slim fans have poor trade-off.


----------



## lagittaja

Been a while since I've posted on this forum. (jeez, I don't even remember how to properly format on this forum anymore, sorry in advance)

I was dissecting the new information we got on the next-gen 120mm fan and figured I'd share my thoughts over here. I'm basically just going to copypaste my other post on a Finnish forum over to here. (translating it of course..)

It really does seem like they've actually achieved something really nice.
Noctua's PQ chart from Computex 2017 (PNG) and the same from Computex 2015. (PNG)
Notice how the chart from 2015 says "at ~18dBA".
This years chart doesn't include that, but take a look at the S12A and F12 data in both of them. Oh, nice, they're basically the same in 2015 and in 2017.
So I can only reason that the 2017 chart is still at ~18dBA. Thank you Noctua for not changing it.

What do we learn from this information?

NF-S12A specs: 17.8dBA, 1200rpm, 107.5m3/h and 1.19mmH2O
--It runs at full speed
----Because in the chart the S12A's airflow is what it should be and max static pressure is ~1.2mmH2O
NF-F12 specs: 22.4dBA, 1500rpm, 93.4m3/h and 2.61mmH2O
--It does not run at full speed
----Because in the chart the F12's max airflow is closer to only ~83m3/h and max static pressure is only ~2.4mmH2O. Also: the dBA, 18 is less than 22.
Next-gen 120mm specs: we don't know pretty much anything other than the maximum speed which should be around 1800rpm.
--It does not run at full speed
----Because max is ~1800rpm and in the 2015 watercooler test (PNG) it was ~2dBA quieter than NF-F12:
----this new fan can't be SO quiet (in dBA) that it could spin at full speed and be only ~18dBA according to Noctua.

Also I asked Noctua in an email about the RPM, it's actually a little bit higher than what it was (1800rpm) back in 2015. They said they have a dBA target and they adjust the rpm accordingly and since it's been two years of optimizations no wonder they afforded to slightly bump the speed while retaining the same sound pressure.
Maybe 1850rpm? Who knows. I don't.

With that information in mind, let's continue onwards.

So.. Since this next-generation 120mm fan bares such a striking resemblance to Nidec Servo's Gentle Typhoon, I can't help myself but to compare it to them.
Let's take the Noctua data (2017) from the above link and Nidec Servo D1225C 1450rpm and 1850rpm data from their datasheet (PDF) and let's punch it into Excel.
(+ let's do tedious conversions and whatnot because it's fun...right?)









Well. That looks interesting.
Let's remember this is not full speed for the next-gen 120mm fan. It's at ~18dBA.
I'm going to assume that it is full speed for the GT's.
Make your own conclusions from this information









And that's basically the thoughts I wanted to share.
So all in all, this new fan looks really interesting.

Already at *reduced speed* it's moving roughly max 90m3/h or about 53CFM and producing max static pressure around 2.1mmH2O.
And then look at the 1850rpm GT data sheet where it moves, at 1850rpm, max 98.5m3/h or about 58CFM while producing max static pressure around 2.05mmH2O.

If that's not impressive to you guys, then I don't know what is.

Hopefully Noctua doesn't face any major issues with the next-gen 140mm version. That's the fan I'm interested in.
I personally don't have any use for a 120mm these days.

P.S. Don't take any of this too seriously, I'm just a armchair scientist doing back of the napkin estimates and punching rough ballpark figures in to a spreadsheet. Let's wait for the proper reviews and decide then. But it sure does look very, very promising.
P.P.S. In case someone didn't see these over on Twitter (in LTT video tweet responses), Noctua said they target 30USD/30EUR and that they aim for September/October release

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/870297106891685891%5B%2FURL
By comparison Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm is rated 58cfm and *1.29mm H2O*[/QUOTE]

Pretty sure that's the 1450rpm one








1850rpm does 58CFM and 2.05mmH2O (0.081inH2O)
1450rpm does 46CFM and 1.29mmH2O (0.051inH2O)

Also hey doyll, how're you doing?


----------



## epic1337

i'm still more curious about their slim fans, it would do us justice to know whether its good enough for things like filtered intake.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Pretty sure that's the 1450rpm one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1850rpm does 58CFM and 2.05mmH2O (0.081inH2O)
> 1450rpm does 46CFM and 1.29mmH2O (0.051inH2O)
> 
> Also hey doyll, how're you doing?


Yeah, I got data mixed up.








Figures you would come out to catch me up.








It will be interesting to see if these new Noctua GTs are really enough better than GTs to be worth paying almost twice as much for them.


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, I got data mixed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Figures you would come out to catch me up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will be interesting to see if these new Noctua GTs are really enough better than GTs to be worth paying almost twice as much for them.


twice...? that would push it to $50, here GTs were priced $25.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Yeah, I got data mixed up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Figures you would come out to catch me up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *It will be interesting to see if these new Noctua GTs are really enough better than GTs to be worth paying almost twice as much for them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Probably not.
However if you don't live in the UK or US or Canada, it's a godsend. (Or somewhere else where you can order Coolerguys GT or Darkside's for a reasonable amount of money)
This is basically what we have available here in Finland. Have a looksie if you want.
https://www.jimms.fi/fi/Product/List/000-0WX/jaahdytys-ja-erikoistuotteet--tuulettimet
There are a handful of smaller stores that _might_ offer something a bit more exotic than what Jimm's has for offer but probably end up more expensive thanks to shipping costs.
www.hinta.fi if you want to search for prices

I don't know all the places you can get GT's from but for example Coolerguys dot com on Amazon.co.uk. (If you know more European sources for these or if there's a Dazmode reseller, please enlighten me)
One GT1850 would cost 29.58€ shipped, two á 26.44€, three á 25.4€ while four brings it down to 24.88€ a pop.
Is the Noctua GT worth 5.02€ more if I can order from Finland, receive next day and have local warranty?
Definitely.
Is the Noctua GT worth 0.32€ more if I only need one and can order from Finland, receive next day and have local warranty?
Do I even need to say?
Is the Noctua GT worth 10€ more if I can order from Finland, receive next day and have local warranty?
Probably.

Point is, it's a shame that the good ole' GT's aren't more widely available.

P.S. Similar q as epic1337, where do you find GT's for 15USD?
Dazmode's sure are 19.95CAD (~15USD) but add shipping and you're probably closer to 20USD per pop assuming you order something like four to offset the shipping a little bit. I tried to see how much the shipping would be for four 1850's to Finland but the website/UPS calculator didn't want to work. I'm going to guess it would have cost an arm and a leg.
Even the Coolerguys GT's are 19.95USD on their website, idk about their continental US shipping costs but probably small enough so you can order just one if you need.
Or 15EUR for that matter














 (jk)


----------



## ehume

Just one issue: Noctua does make an NF-S12A PWM, so its speed can vary. But thanks. +rep


----------



## doyll

Okay then, are they worth a third more than GTs?

EK Vardar F4-120ER white 2-pack are $38.99
https://www.amazon.com/EK-Vardar-F4-120ER-2200rpm-Performance-Cooling/dp/B0714BLSGW/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497043310&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=vardar+120+F3

EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm) are $34.99 for a 2-pack
https://www.amazon.com/EK-Vardar-F3-120-1850rpm-Performance-Cooling/dp/B072FH44BV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497043455&sr=8-1&keywords=ek+vardar+F3


Phanteks PH-F120MP (1800RPM) are $12.33
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Pressure-Radiator-Cooling-PH-F120MP-BK-PWM/dp/B00OP2PUB8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497043661&sr=1-1&keywords=ph-f120mp


Fractal Design Venturi are 20,90 € on your site.

All perform similarly, so which will be your choice?

Can you get Phanteks in great white Finland?


----------



## TerafloppinDatP

Love this company. I sent away for an AM4 bracket and EVGA thermal pad upgrade on the same day. I received Noctua's airmail package the same day I received EVGA's thermal pads. One came from across an ocean, the other came from within the same state! Kudos to EVGA, too, for sending something out for free. But the airmail for free in under 10 days really blew me away.

I know this kind of thing is included with the price premium for Noctua products but man do they have my number. Turns out I'm a huge sucker for quality and excellent customer service. Only more so as I transition into my crotchety old man days, lol

FWIW, the top-down NH-L12 cools 8-12 C better than the Wraith Spire and is quieter in the process. $65 vs stock cooler, which I know is not a fair comparison, but I'm spreading the word anyway. Now to save up for an all-Noctua case fan upgrade.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TerafloppinDatP*
> 
> Love this company. I sent away for an AM4 bracket and EVGA thermal pad upgrade on the same day. I received Noctua's airmail package the same day I received EVGA's thermal pads. One came from across an ocean, the other came from within the same state! Kudos to EVGA, too, for sending something out for free. But the airmail for free in under 10 days really blew me away.
> 
> I know this kind of thing is included with the price premium for Noctua products but man do they have my number. Turns out I'm a huge sucker for quality and excellent customer service. Only more so as I transition into my crotchety old man days, lol
> 
> FWIW, the top-down NH-L12 cools 8-12 C better than the Wraith Spire and is quieter in the process. $65 vs stock cooler, which I know is not a fair comparison, but I'm spreading the word anyway. Now to save up for an all-Noctua case fan upgrade.


You're gonna save up a while, when I was making that decision I decided to buy all the fans I needed for a price of 1 Noctua fan...
It's just a fan, they are not that different from my experiences as long as they are of similar shape, size, speed.

Have yet to see anything new from Noctua too, they always tease but never (2 years later etc.) release.

Noctua service... why would I need it? In case the fan dies then it goes back where it was bought for RMA not to Noctua for me. If I need a cooler for say AM4 I buy a cooler for AM4, if I need a bracket for old cooler either I make it or get it from who ever made the cooler usually for free, with AM4 they all are making sure their coolers can be used with AM4 and have the new mounting.

I would say the moment Noctua ditches that beige/brown color scheme, no one will even recognize their products and it will seems just as yet another overpriced fan/cooler.

Their products are OK, the prices are not but that's everyone's choice to make, wallet or online bragging rights.


----------



## claes

Troll much?

The last twenty or so posts have been about a brand new 15mm fan that appears to perform as well as a Gentle Typhoon... This guy pulls out a soap box "you know they are expensive"







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> You're gonna save up a while, when I was making that decision I decided to buy all the fans I needed for a price of 1 Noctua fan...
> It's just a fan, they are not that different from my experiences as long as they are of similar shape, size, speed.


The first line left me intrigued, but the second made me lol


----------



## AlphaC

At this point I don't see a point in lambasting Noctuas on pricing. The redux line is relatively competitive because they cut down on packaging, extras such as cabling, and reusing R&D from older designs.

Their top of the line fans generally require more engineering & manufacturing expense, such as vortex control notches , ridges on the fan blades, stepped inlet, reduced tip clearance to the frame, etc

A top of the line Noctua (i.e. not redux) usually comes with a line resistor cable (low noise adapter), noise dampener mounting rubber (the corners as well as the pull through rubber screws), sleeved PWM splitter & extension cable, and 6 year warranty. It also comes delivered in plastic container and in cardboard to avoid damage. When it is on sale you can get decent value even if MSRP is high.

The only manufacturer that can really compete worldwide is Phanteks IMO (although South America + eastern europe + Russia seem to be lacking for them) and they've been pretty silent as far as coolers go lately. EK Vardars and other fans are close to Noctuas in pricing once you account for all the things you get in the Noctua box.

Here's what you get with a Phanteks XP (~$20 which is close enough to $21-22 Noctua NF-A14 pricing):
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *http://www.phanteks.com/PH-F140XP.html*
> 1x 140mm PWM Premium Fan
> 1x QSA (Quiet Speed Adapter)
> 1x 4 to 3 pin adapter
> 1x 400mm Extension Cable
> 4x Anti-Vibration Compensators
> 4x Fan Screws


When you buy an EK Vardar all you get is 4 screws and not even rubber corners.

Be Quiet! still needs to work on their global distribution channels in USA.

side note: Noctua would have a huge hit if they released a Chromax line of fans with changeable color corners but a clear fan blade (not hub) & frame.




Their decision to go with black ala industrialPPC is puzzling since so many cheap fans are black. Usually the only clear fans are LED ones such as Yate Loons , Coolermaster Jetflo (semi-transparent blades) , or the pricey Corsair RGB "HD" fans.


----------



## TerafloppinDatP

Alright I'm all in. Just ordered two F12s and two A14s for exhaust and intake to make this a 100% Noctua build. Except for the 3-pin OEM 92" guy tucked in next to the HDD/PSU shroud and secured with black Gorilla tape. Gotta keep some degree of disparate freak show in there


----------



## stulda

Did anyone manage to fit the NF-A20 to the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe case? I purchased the fan thinking it's 200 mm without checking the dimensions and it won't fit.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stulda*
> 
> Did anyone manage to fit the NF-A20 to the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe case? I purchased the fan thinking it's 200 mm without checking the dimensions and it won't fit.


The PH-F200SP is 200x195x30mm with 154mm center to center mount spacing.


----------



## TerafloppinDatP

Alright, it's done. Replaced all case fans with Noctua 12 and 14 inchers. Kept rpms roughly the same for apples to apples comparison. Holy moly what a difference. CPU temps down 12 degrees in all load scenarios! Sadly, noise went through the roof, too. Turns out the stock fans were so quiet because they weren't moving air for ****! So I knocked the new Noctuas down to 30-60% in most load scenarios and now I've got quiet and cooler operation. Still dialing it in but pretty good so far. Nice to know they can really move some air when they need to, too.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TerafloppinDatP*
> 
> Alright, it's done. Replaced all case fans with Noctua 12 and 14 inchers. Kept rpms roughly the same for apples to apples comparison. Holy moly what a difference. CPU temps down 12 degrees in all load scenarios! Sadly, noise went through the roof, too. Turns out the stock fans were so quiet because they weren't moving air for ****! So I knocked the new Noctuas down to 30-60% in most load scenarios and now I've got quiet and cooler operation. Still dialing it in but pretty good so far. Nice to know they can really move some air when they need to, too.


Couple of suggestions;

Remove unused PCIe slot covers. This usually gives better front to back airflow around GPU
Turn CPU cooler fan so it draws air away from motherboard through cooler instead of pushing air down toward motherboard. This usually lowers CPU temps.


----------



## stulda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The PH-F200SP is 200x195x30mm with 154mm center to center mount spacing.


Thanks. Might have to drill to my case which I would rather not. Any other way to secure the fan maybe? It's not quite centered and not sure whether that would case more harm than not, but having that 200 mm Noctua fan in place would be pretty cool.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stulda*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The PH-F200SP is 200x195x30mm with 154mm center to center mount spacing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Might have to drill to my case which I would rather not. Any other way to secure the fan maybe? It's not quite centered and not sure whether that would case more harm than not, but having that 200 mm Noctua fan in place would be pretty cool.
Click to expand...

Nice diagram. The Noctua NF-A20 is 200x30mm, very firmly constructed. Comparing them with the Enermax 180mm units -- which I also reviewed -- they are much tougher. The Phanteks and the Noctua share 154mm screw-hole spacings. In addition, the Noctua has other spacings. Measure the screw-holes on your own case, then compare them to what the fan has. This is what Noctua recommends.

As for drilling a case, the good carpenter measures twice and cuts once. That said, if the places for screw-holes are not on an exterior surface, drilling is OK. Just make sure the holes are not overlarge.


----------



## doyll

@stulda
According to Noctua the NF-A20 has mounting holes on *154mm*, 110x180mm and 170mm hole spacing *154mm* is same as PH-F200SP. Based on that data you should be able to mount the NF-A20 in the Phanteks case no problem.


----------



## stulda

When I tried to swap the fans the noctua is just little too big to be put in place. Only by like a few mm. It goes in but not right in the centre therefore I can't line up the holes. The left side the case has a cutout for the fan but it's just little too small. That prevents the fan to fit in nicely.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stulda*
> 
> When I tried to swap the fans the noctua is just little too big to be put in place. Only by like a few mm. It goes in but not right in the centre therefore I can't line up the holes. The left side the case has a cutout for the fan but it's just little too small. That prevents the fan to fit in nicely.


So it's the Noc being 200x200mm instead of Phanteks 195x200mm overall sizing. It now makes sense .. although I don't understand why you just don't use 2x 140mm fans and have better airflow with less noise. The NF-A20 has an obismally low 1.08mm H2O pressure rating at maximum speed (800rpm) Slow it down and the pressure drops to even lower levels .. and pressure rating is maximum water column lift when fan isn't moving any air at all.

For comparison PH-F140 SP is 1.33mm H2O and PH-F140MP is 1.62 mm H20


----------



## stulda

Apart from the mesh and dust filter there is no air restrictions since I don't have any hdd cages between the fan and mobo. I thought bigger fan would be quieter while pushing reasonable amount of air. Maybe you're right and I should just install 2 140mm fans. I recently replaced the stock corsair fans on my h110i aio for the ML140 and the improvement was noticeable right away. I'm thinking I should just get 2 more and have it installed instead of 1 200mm then? They should perform well as an intake fan right? I also have one that's going to be placed down as a an intake to the bottom next to my power supply.


----------



## MathKiller

In club. At this time - intake - 1*200 + 2*140. outtake - 2*200 + 1*140. Added 3rd fan to D15. (-2C at max speed, and - 2-4C at low speeds) Cpu is delided. [email protected],0ghz. Ram [email protected] Going to upgrade to new A20-PWM's.
P.S. 3rd fan at radiator have buzz noise at 750 + rpm (in pull position). But fans are 250-600 rpm usually.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MathKiller*
> 
> In club. At this time - intake - 1*200 + 2*140. outtake - 2*200 + 1*140. Added 3rd fan to D15. (-2C at max speed, and - 2-4C at low speeds) Cpu is delided. [email protected],0ghz. Ram [email protected] Going to upgrade to new A20-PWM's.
> P.S. 3rd fan at radiator have buzz noise at 750 + rpm (in pull position). But fans are 250-600 rpm usually.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is a rather common problem caused by how close the fan impeller is to what fan housing is mounted to. Fan impellers are about 3mm farther way from mounting surface on push /exhaust side than on pull / intake side because of the fan motor mounting frame on exhaust side of fan being about 3mm thick.
You might find the below excerpt from NH-U14S manual showing the additional spacing of pull fan of interest.


Alpenfohn also addressed this issue on their Olymp cooler for users wanting to run 3 fans.


----------



## MathKiller

Thank you! Are thicker pads selling anywhere? Or noctua can send them to me?


----------



## spddmn24

Pretty happy with my nh-d15 so far.

Before:


After:


----------



## MathKiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spddmn24*
> 
> Pretty happy with my nh-d15 so far.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:


You changed water cooling to D15? How it is? Temperatures?


----------



## spddmn24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MathKiller*
> 
> You changed water cooling to D15? How it is? Temperatures?


I didn't get a chance to do a fair a/b comparison, but if it's warmer than the loop it's close enough that I can't tell a difference. My 7700k @ 5.1 ghz 1.344 vcore stays sub 70 peak temps gaming in CPU intensive games like battlefield 1.


----------



## MathKiller

Noctua D15 with 1, 2 and 3 fans:
Delided 7700k, 5000mhz Offset 1, 1,425 adaptive, 3866 c17 memory, 4500 Cache, vccio 1,3, vccsa auto
LinX 1.7.2 problem size 41000 1 cycle

1 fan: 85-85-94-77
2 fan: 83-83-92-76
3 fan: 82-82-90-76


----------



## epic1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MathKiller*
> 
> Thank you! Are thicker pads selling anywhere? Or noctua can send them to me?


ghetto pads if you can't find a seller.


----------



## MasakakiKairi

https://www.amazon.com/noctua-LYSB0110PZV16-ELECTRNCS-Noctua-Vibration-Corners/dp/B0110PZV16
these are the thicker ones as shown in the review


----------



## ikem

New GPU and NZXT Aer's behind the C14s.


----------



## mypickaxe

So, turns out I have a lot of Noctua fans in my case. 16 to be exact.



14 shown. Bottom rad is push/pull.

EDIT:

Waiting for my second 200mm front intake, moved 140 to rear (now have two 140mm at the rear in top/left and bottom/right configuration.)

Selling my NF-F12 iPPC fans.



I'm seriously considering some Noctua themed custom power and SATA data cables.


----------



## Martigane

Wow, and I thought that my 9-noctua-fan build was overkill








At which RPM do you run them in IDLE/game?

my setup:

IDLE: (positive pressure keeps dust out)
- Intakes 700rpm
- Exhaust 400rpm

Game: (Negative pressure as filters block too much aiflow on input)
- Intakes 900rpm
- Exhaust 800rpm

Burn:
- Intakes 1100rpm
- Exhaust 1300rpm


----------



## bluej511

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martigane*
> 
> Wow, and I thought that my 9-noctua-fan build was overkill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At which RPM do you run them in IDLE/game?
> 
> my setup:
> 
> IDLE: (positive pressure keeps dust out)
> - Intakes 700rpm
> - Exhaust 400rpm
> 
> Game: (Negative pressure as filters block too much aiflow on input)
> - Intakes 900rpm
> - Exhaust 800rpm
> 
> Burn:
> - Intakes 1100rpm
> - Exhaust 1300rpm


I have about 12 total, 7 of them are noctuas the rest are stuff i had lying around. At 1100rpm with the window open (no ac and southern france is hot as balls lately) you hear ambien noise more obviously, while gaming and headphones u hear nothing with the window closed and without headphones its actually pretty damn quite. I bet at 900rpm the thing should be pretty damn silent.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martigane*
> 
> Wow, and I thought that my 9-noctua-fan build was overkill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At which RPM do you run them in IDLE/game?


For idle, between 200 and 480 rpm, depending on the location, size and purpose of the fan. When I'm using it for work, daily tasks, MS Office, browsing, etc., I hear no more than a pleasant "whir."

I leave all the panels on, even in the summer time. It sits in the front room, which is western facing, in Texas. Which is a hot climate, obviously. So when the sun comes up over the house and begins to set, that's the hottest time of the day for my office and the PC. I have to keep it cool during that time.

As far as gaming or heavy use (VMWare labs, etc.) I have the fans on a curve, dynamically increasing based on load. Some areas respond to VRM and PCH, but most are dedicated to CPU temperature.

It seems like overkill, but every fan has a purpose. I need cool air for intake, obviously. It's a large case, and I need positive pressure to keep the dust out. I also resolved every problem I had using a typical mid-tower with restricted airflow and some sound dampening. It just wasn't worth it in my particular use case.

In the front of the case, there's the 200mm at the top, and 140mm at the bottom, for intake.

Two fans are dedicated to exhaust. Top left (CPU compartment) and bottom right, HDD area (looking at it from the rear I/O.)

Four are dedicated exhaust / radiator fans (all on the EK Xe radiator over the CPU area.)

Four are dedicated to intake / radiator (due to placement as a bottom / side mounted radiator.) I don't want to create "dead zones" or have the two radiators competing for the same fresh air intake. I also don't want the only air entering the case to be cooled radiator air which must then be exhausted through the top radiator. So it balances itself out with the additional intakes.

I have two more fans dedicated to HDD and PCIe SSDs. There's a good reason:

Even with all of the fresh air intake, I find the hard drives are in a restricted area, mostly to do with the HDD cage and mounting, but also the location, and I see them running in the high 40s (Celsius) without active cooling. With active cooling, they run in the 30s. There's a big difference there, and one that should extend the life of the drives. I've read again and again, hard drives last longer, on average, if their temperature does not exceed 40 degrees.

The PCIe NVMe SSDs also run cool in the 30s, which eliminates possibility of throttling, even at low fan RPM.

There's also two more mounted over the internal I/O area, which add additional airflow, cool the PCH, and are probably the least necessary fans in the entire case. I found they didn't cool the PCIe SSDs as well as fans directly pointed at them in parallel seem to do.

No windows (except for the one on the house







):


----------



## doyll

While mypickaxe has a fan-addition, he has built a cool and mostly quiet system .. except at about 5pm on clear day when it's 115f in the shade of which there is none.









I use mid-tower size cases and can keep everything cool on about 3x 140mm intake fans and maybe 1 exhaust fan. I use fans with high static pressure ratings so their speed can be slow and they will still move plenty of air.

Here is a graph showing how high static pressure rated fans even with lower airflow ratings out perform high airflow low static pressure fans. Notic how the fan with highest airflow fan (orange line) has an airflow curve that ends up with no airflow above 1.2mm H2O, while the highest pressure fan (purple line) is still flowing over 50cfm at the same 1.2mm H2O and other fan (blue line) is still flowing more than 30cfm. Also notice the pressure to airflow (P/Q) curve of purple line is much higher in middel part of graph .. much better airflow in the area where we use our fans most of the time.

I also believe fans for our case airflow need to meet the same requirements as our cooler and/or radiator fans do. Case grills and filters are way mroe restrictive than most people realize.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While mypickaxe has a fan-addition, he has built a cool and mostly quiet system .. except at about 5pm on clear day when it's 115f in the shade of which there is none.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use mid-tower size cases and can keep everything cool on about 3x 140mm intake fans and maybe 1 exhaust fan. I use fans with high static pressure ratings so their speed can be slow and they will still move plenty of air.
> 
> Here is a graph showing how high static pressure rated fans even with lower airflow ratings out perform high airflow low static pressure fans. Notic how the fan with highest airflow fan (orange line) has an airflow curve that ends up with no airflow above 1.2mm H2O, while the highest pressure fan (purple line) is still flowing over 50cfm at the same 1.2mm H2O and other fan (blue line) is still flowing more than 30cfm. Also notice the pressure to airflow (P/Q) curve of purple line is much higher in middel part of graph .. much better airflow in the area where we use our fans most of the time.
> 
> I also believe fans for our case airflow need to meet the same requirements as our cooler and/or radiator fans do. Case grills and filters are way mroe restrictive than most people realize.


Congratulations. I moved from a Carbide 330R which couldn't run two GPUs without shutting down. That was with case fans. The only way to keep the thing from overheating was to take the front and side panels off.

Do you suggest I not use fans on all my radiator positions? Do you suggest I not use top and bottom fans for such a large case where localized airflow is important (I have more drives at the bottom of the case behind the pump and radiator. It gets warm.)


----------



## TerafloppinDatP

doyll, I just went through this exact same exercise on a different forum where a user couldn't figure out why his graphics card was overheating in his new Corsair 400c with it's *single* intake fan that wasn't doing squat against the front panel and dust filter. Another user was trying to tell him he needed a bigger exhaust fan, while I was maintaining that the panel and filter were making it a high resistance situation. Anyway, this graph and sidebar explain it way more eloquently than I did, lol. It's why replacing my stock fans with high static pressure Noctuas dropped my CPU temps 5-10 degrees, and they run at 50% the speed.

One thing I'll add that the case manufacturers are missing completely is that the mesh panel at the back of the case, usually under the exhaust fan like with the 400c, actually becomes an _intake_ when your front intake fans can't keep up. Then you end up with a useless flow path from right under the exhaust fan right back out. You can test it with a tissue or a match. These companies definitely kept the engineers out of the design process and replaced them with artists for these new cases(or maybe engineers were never involved and they just got away with it before). Beautiful to look at, but in need of some serious static pressure talent up front!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Congratulations. I moved from a Carbide 330R which couldn't run two GPUs without shutting down. That was with case fans. The only way to keep the thing from overheating was to take the front and side panels off.
> 
> Do you suggest I not use fans on all my radiator positions? Do you suggest I not use top and bottom fans for such a large case where localized airflow is important (I have more drives at the bottom of the case behind the pump and radiator. It gets warm.)


Congratulations. You just succeeded in convincing me to not keep trying to helping you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TerafloppinDatP*
> 
> doyll, I just went through this exact same exercise on a different forum where a user couldn't figure out why his graphics card was overheating in his new Corsair 400c with it's *single* intake fan that wasn't doing squat against the front panel and dust filter. Another user was trying to tell him he needed a bigger exhaust fan, while I was maintaining that the panel and filter were making it a high resistance situation. Anyway, this graph and sidebar explain it way more eloquently than I did, lol. It's why replacing my stock fans with high static pressure Noctuas dropped my CPU temps 5-10 degrees, and they run at 50% the speed.
> 
> One thing I'll add that the case manufacturers are missing completely is that the mesh panel at the back of the case, usually under the exhaust fan like with the 400c, actually becomes an _intake_ when your front intake fans can't keep up. Then you end up with a useless flow path from right under the exhaust fan right back out. You can test it with a tissue or a match. These companies definitely kept the engineers out of the design process and replaced them with artists for these new cases(or maybe engineers were never involved and they just got away with it before). Beautiful to look at, but in need of some serious static pressure talent up front!


That's the way I see it too. I've never had a high pressure fan not do what I wanted .. but in airflow and being quiet. But I've had a lot of airflow fans that couldn't overcome a perforated sheetmeal case back grill .. well they could move air through a back grill, but not a front grill, even without a filter.

You are 100% corrrect about case design not being about airflow. Few case have even 30% as much open vent area on front panels as usual 2x 140mm fans have. I've measure the open slots and calculated the actual open area / flow area and it's scarily low compare to fan flow area. We are now seeing some of the better case companies coming out with better fans, but it is years too late. Most of my builds don't use exhaust fans. They only have good intake fans, A case is no different than a cooler or radiator. If cooler or radiator has good fans on it there is no need for 'push/pull' and a case basically the same thing. Good intake fans that can supply the interior with good airflow can usually push the air right on out of the case's exhaust vents .. assuming case has enough exhaust vents. About the only time I use exhaust fans is to help get the airflow paths / streams to flow where they are needed.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Congratulations. I moved from a Carbide 330R which couldn't run two GPUs without shutting down. That was with case fans. The only way to keep the thing from overheating was to take the front and side panels off.
> 
> Do you suggest I not use fans on all my radiator positions? Do you suggest I not use top and bottom fans for such a large case where localized airflow is important (I have more drives at the bottom of the case behind the pump and radiator. It gets warm.)
> 
> 
> 
> Congratulations. You just succeeded in convincing me to not keep trying to helping you.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Never once did I ask for your help, or anyone else's in this forum. Not once. I don't have a problem. I like the fans. This is a Noctua forum. See my picture with lots of Noctua fans.

No, you show up with your charts and graphs, and your smug condescension, and that's all to disguise your rudeness. That's all it is, plain and simple.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Thanks. Never once did I ask for your help, or anyone else's in this forum. Not once. I don't have a problem. I like the fans. This is a Noctua forum. See my picture with lots of Noctua fans.
> 
> No, you show up with your charts and graphs, and your smug condescension, and that's all to disguise your rudeness. That's all it is, plain and simple.


I didn't post any advice for you. I only joked about you using like 3 times as many fans as most of us, but also complement you on how you have cool and quiet system if it isn't 115f with sun on it. Then I went on to explain how I setup my towers (same as you did about your system),

But you somehow took that as justification to reply to my posting with sarcasm and antagonistic questions asking if I advise not using fans on radiators.









My mistake for assuming your post was for the same reasons I posted .. to let others know how we build our systems to be cool and quiet.


----------



## TerafloppinDatP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Even with all of the fresh air intake, I find the hard drives are in a restricted area, mostly to do with the HDD cage and mounting, but also the location, and I see them running in the high 40s (Celsius) without active cooling. With active cooling, they run in the 30s. There's a big difference there, and one that should extend the life of the drives. I've read again and again, hard drives last longer, on average, if their temperature does not exceed 40 degrees.


I did the same thing with a 92mm fan I was originally going to scrap. Put it right next to the case intake blowing on the basement drive cage and it lowered extended use HDD temps 10-13C, so I'm always in the 30-37C range now. I was getting nervous with 50C temps on one of the drives, and I need this 5TB HDD to last!

Also, FWIW, and as an outside observer with no particular allegiance to you, doyll, or any other generally friendly member of this forum, I observed doyll's comments to be at first complimentary to your awesome Noctua setup and then merely adding his own new nuggets of 'pressure vs flow' info, which *all* Noctua lovers are the natural beneficiaries of because Noctua makes great fans. He specifically pitted them against stock case fans, in fact, and not in your rig. So I didn't read it as insulting you or your rig at all. I could be wrong but that's my perspective as a neutral 3rd party.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Thanks. Never once did I ask for your help, or anyone else's in this forum. Not once. I don't have a problem. I like the fans. This is a Noctua forum. See my picture with lots of Noctua fans.
> 
> No, you show up with your charts and graphs, and your smug condescension, and that's all to disguise your rudeness. That's all it is, plain and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't post any advice for you. I only joked about you using like 3 times as many fans as most of us, but also complement you on how you have cool and quiet system if it isn't 115f with sun on it. Then I went on to explain how I setup my towers (same as you did about your system),
> 
> But you somehow took that as justification to reply to my posting with sarcasm and antagonistic questions asking if I advise not using fans on radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My mistake for assuming your post was for the same reasons I posted .. to let others know how we build our systems to be cool and quiet.
Click to expand...

You said this: "Congratulations. You just succeeded in convincing me to not keep trying to helping you." I don't have anything against you, but look at it from my perspective. I posted a photo, then followed up with someone who asked, and I explained my particular situation. You came along a couple of days later with this soliloquy on Noctua fans and static pressure, and there's some implications one would naturally assume there.

So, let's let bygones be bygones if we can. I don't want to alienate anyone here, but I've also been attacked a fair amount by folks who purport to mean well, so I always have my guard up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TerafloppinDatP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Even with all of the fresh air intake, I find the hard drives are in a restricted area, mostly to do with the HDD cage and mounting, but also the location, and I see them running in the high 40s (Celsius) without active cooling. With active cooling, they run in the 30s. There's a big difference there, and one that should extend the life of the drives. I've read again and again, hard drives last longer, on average, if their temperature does not exceed 40 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> I did the same thing with a 92mm fan I was originally going to scrap. Put it right next to the case intake blowing on the basement drive cage and it lowered extended use HDD temps 10-13C, so I'm always in the 30-37C range now. I was getting nervous with 50C temps on one of the drives, and I need this 5TB HDD to last!
> 
> Also, FWIW, and as an outside observer with no particular allegiance to you, doyll, or any other generally friendly member of this forum, I observed doyll's comments to be at first complimentary to your awesome Noctua setup and then merely adding his own new nuggets of 'pressure vs flow' info, which *all* Noctua lovers are the natural beneficiaries of because Noctua makes great fans. He specifically pitted them against stock case fans, in fact, and not in your rig. So I didn't read it as insulting you or your rig at all. I could be wrong but that's my perspective as a neutral 3rd party.
Click to expand...

Exactly. 50C is just too darned hot for a hard drive. People wonder why their HDDs fail so often, blame Seagate, blame WD, etc. but they rarely look at the temperatures reported by their drives.

First, thanks for the compliment. I spent a lot of money on this rig, and while it may not look like the fanciest hard line water cooled builds you'll see, or the most tricked out setups featuring Noctua fans, I've done what I can with what time and resources I have.

As far as doyll, perhaps I misunderstood his intentions, but it came across as "look at this guy with a fan addiction!" He wrote "addition" but I'm sure that was a typo, and also "nice rig, too bad it heats up in the sun" (?) and then a display of graphs showing how high static pressure fans work (I assume the implication is, I don't need so many fans.)

So, considering some of mine are dedicated to radiator use, and others are for intake, exhaust, and the hard drives, I'm not sure, short of removing the two which blow over the motherboard, that there's much I can really do to improve the situation (reducing fans) while not also increasing component temperatures.


----------



## ehume

I have found that most airflow problems come about because people do not realize they have a bad case, an do not replace it with a good case. My first case was a bad case, made by Antec and sold by Newegg. Antec should not have still been building such an old case which had proven to have such bad airflow. Newegg should not have sold it; heck, it had only an 80mm intake fan. Well, I did learn some valuable lessons, but still . . .

If anyone anywhere is having heating troubles look first at the case, then look at how the air will flow in your proposed case. Only then do you start buying parts. Be the carpenter who measures twice but cuts once.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> I have found that most airflow problems come about because people do not realize they have a bad case, an do not replace it with a good case. My first case was a bad case, made by Antec and sold by Newegg. Antec should not have still been building such an old case which had proven to have such bad airflow. Newegg should not have sold it; heck, it had only an 80mm intake fan. Well, I did learn some valuable lessons, but still . . .
> 
> If anyone anywhere is having heating troubles look first at the case, then look at how the air will flow in your proposed case. Only then do you start buying parts. Be the carpenter who measures twice but cuts once.


Which is why I replaced a bad case with a case that has great airflow, is well ventilated, etc.


----------



## ehume

So, mypickaxe, rest assured that you did the right thing; that you spent your money well.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> So, mypickaxe, rest assured that you did the right thing; that you spent your money well.


----------



## doyll

I see way more bad case fans and/or fan layout then I do bad cases. Most people do not realize that most stock case fans are not able to flow enough air through the fancy grills and filters. Even at full speed they usually only flow about half as much air as system needs when component fans are running at half speed or less. Fractal Design cases are a perfect example of great cases with total garbage case fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> You said this: "Congratulations. You just succeeded in convincing me to not keep trying to helping you." I don't have anything against you, but look at it from my perspective. I posted a photo, then followed up with someone who asked, and I explained my particular situation. You came along a couple of days later with this soliloquy on Noctua fans and static pressure, and there's some implications one would naturally assume there.
> 
> So, let's let bygones be bygones if we can. I don't want to alienate anyone here, but I've also been attacked a fair amount by folks who purport to mean well, so I always have my guard up.


I felt your reply to my post was rude, and that s why I said I will not be helping you.
While you do not intend to be rude, maybe the attitude readers perceive from your posts is why you've been attacked same as I did.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I see way more bad case fans and/or fan layout then I do bad cases. Most people do not realize that most stock case fans are not able to flow enough air through the fancy grills and filters. Even at full speed they usually only flow about half as much air as system needs when component fans are running at half speed or less. Fractal Design cases are a perfect example of great cases with total garbage case fans.


You see pictures of more bad airflow than you do bad cases, that's true. But bad cases are being sold. I know because OEM's have sent them for review. Plus one does see them for sale. Heck, I even bought one when I was in a hurry and didn't yet know anything. With your creativity and fan knowledge you can make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, but trying to so so will defeat the average user.

As for fans, when you compare unobstructed airflow vs through even a light filter there is a huge difference, confirming your words with numbers. IMO normal (unobstructed airflow) specs are useless. Too bad the fan industry has not agreed on a standard filter to set out obstructed specs.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> You see pictures of more bad airflow than you do bad cases, that's true. But bad cases are being sold. I know because OEM's have sent them for review. Plus one does see them for sale. Heck, I even bought one when I was in a hurry and didn't yet know anything. With your creativity and fan knowledge you can make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, but trying to so so will defeat the average user.
> 
> As for fans, when you compare unobstructed airflow vs through even a light filter there is a huge difference, confirming your words with numbers. IMO normal (unobstructed airflow) specs are useless. Too bad the fan industry has not agreed on a standard filter to set out obstructed specs.


I agree there are many new cases that have atrocious airflow .. or lack thereof. We both know almost any fan with a RPM range of 300-1500rpm with a pressure rating of 1.3-2.0mm H2O is going to move a decent flow of air even at half speed. We also know fan with same rpm range with a pressure ratign of 0.3-0.7mm H2O is not going to flow very little air even at full speed with no restrictions like grill and filter .. and none at half speed.

Did you happen to see any of the video interviews with Noctua at Computex 2017 and or the display P/Q graphs the had up? In a couple of the videos the rep / engineer explained how airflow testing often has nedgative pressure on exhaust side of fan. I'm assuming it is not really negative, but the fan test system intake and exhaust sides of fan being tested are kept at 0.00 mm H2O .. something even a fan hanging on stings in a room does not have. As we both know airflow is created when we have a pressure differential, higher pressure air / area moves to equalize the pressure in low pressure area resulting in airflow.

When fans are running they create a lower pressure area on their intake side and a higher pressure area on their exhaust side .. low pressure area causes air to move toward fan intake and high pressure move air away for fan fan exhaust. But when some companies test their fans the artificially alter the pressure on the intake and exhaust sides of fan so they are equal .. meaning the airflow rating of fan is artificially high.


----------



## Gauanqh6764

..


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nobelharvards*
> 
> NH-D15.
> 
> Bought it after seeing an open box deal on PC Case Gear for $99 AUD (down from $119). The 6 year warranty and the Australian Consumer Law still applied and Noctua products are rarely discounted, so I jumped on it.
> 
> Package was badly scratched, but the contents were undamaged.
> 
> 
> 
> If I want to swap out the GPU, I'll need to take off the entire heatsink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I should have gone for the D15S. It also costs $99.


Hi there

Looks good, have run NH-D15 with GPU which has been close to NH-D15 and still no issues,temperatures has been as always good, this has been like with Titan X SC or Zotac GTX1080 AMP and in my case I'm on X99 board and i7-5820k

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> You said this: "Congratulations. You just succeeded in convincing me to not keep trying to helping you." I don't have anything against you, but look at it from my perspective. I posted a photo, then followed up with someone who asked, and I explained my particular situation. You came along a couple of days later with this soliloquy on Noctua fans and static pressure, and there's some implications one would naturally assume there.
> 
> So, let's let bygones be bygones if we can. I don't want to alienate anyone here, but I've also been attacked a fair amount by folks who purport to mean well, so I always have my guard up.
> 
> 
> 
> I felt your reply to my post was rude, and that s why I said I will not be helping you.
> While you do not intend to be rude, maybe the attitude readers perceive from your posts is why you've been attacked same as I did.
Click to expand...

I think I've figured you out. Never mind.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nobelharvards*
> 
> NH-D15.
> 
> Bought it after seeing an open box deal on PC Case Gear for $99 AUD (down from $119). The 6 year warranty and the Australian Consumer Law still applied and Noctua products are rarely discounted, so I jumped on it.
> 
> Package was badly scratched, but the contents were undamaged.
> 
> 
> 
> If I want to swap out the GPU, I'll need to take off the entire heatsink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I should have gone for the D15S. It also costs $99.


Like Jura11 said, you should be fine. If you want to be even safer you could take out the fans and put rubber or heat shrink on the fan clips where they stick out the side of cooler & fan.

Why would you have to take off the heatsink? Couldn't you slip a chop stick or similar between cooler and GPU and release the PCIe socket latch?


----------



## ehume

@nobelharvards - Before Noctua made the D15S, they made the D15 with finstack-hugging clips. That's your first break -- non-interference with the top slot by clips. Now, to protect your GPU, you can put masking tape on the back of the PCB, where it faces the fan clip. With this insulating layer you will have . . . no worries, mate.

@doyll - I've been too busy to watch any video. Thanks for doing the viewing for me. One thing: the air coming off the exhaust end of a fan will show a negative air pressure because the air is moving -- just like the air on top of a wing. But although one can measure the outflow as having a negative pressure, lots of photos show exhaust streams expanding outward as they move, as if air pressure is positive. I have interpreted those pictures to mean that the air pressure is irrelevant as long as a fan is maintaining an airflow. As much as I like Noctua and its products, they sound a little disingenuous here. But I didn't see the video. Maybe I missed something.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> @nobelharvards - Before Noctua made the D15S, they made the D15 with finstack-hugging clips. That's your first break -- non-interference with the top slot by clips. Now, to protect your GPU, you can put masking tape on the back of the PCB, where it faces the fan clip. With this insulating layer you will have . . . no worries, mate.
> 
> @doyll
> - I've been too busy to watch any video. Thanks for doing the viewing for me. One thing: the air coming off the exhaust end of a fan will show a negative air _pressure_ because the air is moving -- just like the air on top of a wing. But although one can measure the outflow as having a negative pressure, lots of photos show exhaust streams expanding outward as they move, as if air pressure is positive. I have interpreted those pictures to mean that the air pressure is irrelevant as long as a fan is maintaining an airflow. As much as I like Noctua and its products, they sound a little disingenuous here. But I didn't see the video. Maybe I missed something.


To be honest I didn't spend more than a few minutes listening to it. I was not talking about the fan blades, but about the air 10-20mm in front of and behind the fan housing itself .. about what cause airflow to and from the complete assembled unit we call 'fan'


----------



## Gauanqh6764

..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nobelharvards*
> 
> My motherboard has a single clip for the PCIe slot and it is tiny, similar to the ones on the DIMM slots. I have tried using a chopstick, but the force direction needs to be slightly sideways, not just straight down.
> The chopstick kept slipping off the clip.
> 
> I did eventually manage to succeed with the chopstick, but after inspecting the clip, I had definitely damaged it. It felt a lot "looser".
> 
> It still functions fine and holds the GPU in place, but I'm not willing to take any further risks.


Ah yes, the side movement to release. I modified the chop stick so it would fit along side of clip and then push it toward PCIe slot or turn it to push clip toward PCIe socket so it releases.


----------



## ehume

The problem with chopsticks or even toothpicks is that they can fall out. This is why I use masking tape -- almost no thickness and it doesn't fall off.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> The problem with chopsticks or even toothpicks is that they can fall out. This is why I use masking tape -- almost no thickness and it doesn't fall off.


Chopstick is only to be used as a tool to unlatch PCIe socket latch, not to be used as a spacer.


----------



## MathKiller

Received today 3x A20 PWM's ^_^
Had some problems to install them to NZXT Phantom 630.. Made some case modifications.


----------



## Kana Chan

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/939x704q90/923/XxDnLq.jpg

Is that a 150mm fan on a 140mm radiator? This fits fine on any 140mm wide, right?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kana Chan*
> 
> http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/939x704q90/923/XxDnLq.jpg
> 
> Is that a 150mm fan on a 140mm radiator? This fits fine on any 140mm wide, right?


They are 140mm fans with 120mm fan mounting holes using adapters to give them 140mm fan mounting holes and mounted on a 280mm (2x 140mm fan) radiator.


120mm fans have 105mm mounting hole spacing
140mm fans have 124.5mm mounting hole spacing.

I have made adapter plates for 140mm fans with 120mm mountng holes.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/20_20#post_23207921


----------



## ehume

The retail NF-P14 came with those adapters. Now Noctua sells the NF-A14. You can still get the 120mm screw-holes with the NF-A15. The P14 is no longer in production.


----------



## squads

Has anyone used a NF-A15 on a C12P cooler? I have one that came with an NF-P14, which does not have PWM. I want to switch it to a PWM and the A15 looks like it will equal or be slightly better compared to the P14.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squads*
> 
> Has anyone used a NF-A15 on a C12P cooler? I have one that came with an NF-P14, which does not have PWM. I want to switch it to a PWM and the A15 looks like it will equal or be slightly better compared to the P14.


I don't know about the CP12P, but I have had non-PWM and PWM versions of the P14, and non-PWM and PWM versions of the A15. The A15 is much the better fans. I had access to P14's for my current rig, and chose two retail A15's (retail A15's max at 1200rpm, while the A15's that come with D15's and D15S's max to 1500rpm).

Compared to the A15, the P14 is louder. If the P14 fits, so will the A15. If you are considering the change, go with it.

The only different fan you might chose is a Thermalright TY-147A. Nice fans, but I read some rumbling that the TY series can die start making noises after a few years, while the Noctua all have a 6-year warranty -- which means they expect the fans to last longer.


----------



## squads

Thanks for the feedback. I ordered an A15 PWM for the cooler and an A8 PWM for the empty chassis fan slot to the rear of the CPU. The P14 at full bore was by far the loudest thing in my PC, so I was running it with the LN adapter. That was fine but it limited overclocking and did not provide much airflow for the PWMs. The A15 in PWM mode along with an extra rear fan should be a nice airflow upgrade. Pics will be provided upon arrival and install


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squads*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I ordered an A15 PWM for the cooler and an A8 PWM for the empty chassis fan slot to the rear of the CPU. The P14 at full bore was by far the loudest thing in my PC, so I was running it with the LN adapter. That was fine but it limited overclocking and did not provide much airflow for the PWMs. The A15 in PWM mode along with an extra rear fan should be a nice airflow upgrade. Pics will be provided upon arrival and install


I'm looking forward to it. The shots of the heatsink will be interesting. The shots of the 80mm fan at work should prove fascinating. TBH, I have yet to find an 80mm fan that produced airflow without making noise -- or produced appreciable airflow while maintaining any semblance of quiet. Back when I was just starting and knew nothing I got a case from Newegg that was made by Antec. It was an obsolete case even then. No way Antec should have made it or Newegg should have sold it, but newbie I was dumb enough to buy it. It had an 80mm intake. I tried buying a Nexus -- no good. I tried an NF-R8 -- no good. I hope you have better results with the NF-A8 (or with the NF-R8 redux). Please report on your findings so we will know.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squads*
> 
> Has anyone used a NF-A15 on a C12P cooler? I have one that came with an NF-P14, which does not have PWM. I want to switch it to a PWM and the A15 looks like it will equal or be slightly better compared to the P14.


Isn't the NH-C12P is designed for 120mm fans? If using 140mm fan pushing air down it will limit the amount of air going through the cooler fins because of the airflow going down around the outside of fin pack. If 140mm fan is pulling air up it might not be as bad, but still might be a consideration. I would stay with 120mm fan.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *squads*
> 
> Has anyone used a NF-A15 on a C12P cooler? I have one that came with an NF-P14, which does not have PWM. I want to switch it to a PWM and the A15 looks like it will equal or be slightly better compared to the P14.
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't the NH-C12P is designed for 120mm fans? If using 140mm fan pushing air down it will limit the amount of air going through the cooler fins because of the airflow going down around the outside of fin pack. If 140mm fan is pulling air up it might not be as bad, but still might be a consideration. I would stay with 120mm fan.
Click to expand...

Here is where we might disagree. I once tried the TY-140 on the NH-D14. The TY-140 has vents that go out to the side, 150-160mm (I'd have to measure). As such, it blew air around the outside of the finstack. It turned out that the Thermalright TY-140 turned the NH-D14 into a better heatsink than using the NF-P14, which does not flare and is thus limited to 140mm. The proof of the pudding may be the NF-A15, which flares to the side like the TY-140, TY147A, TY-143, etc.

Bottom line: having an airflow wider than the finstack improves cooling.

I'm assuming that the C12 uses fan clips that hook onto the corners of the stock fan. Thus it will be compatible with P14 and A15 fans. In fact, Noctua made such a beast. The link is here, and features the P14 quite prominently.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Here is where we might disagree. I once tried the TY-140 on the NH-D14. The TY-140 has vents that go out to the side, 150-160mm (I'd have to measure). As such, it blew air around the outside of the finstack. It turned out that the Thermalright TY-140 turned the NH-D14 into a better heatsink than using the NF-P14, which does not flare and is thus limited to 140mm. The proof of the pudding may be the NF-A15, which flares to the side like the TY-140, TY147A, TY-143, etc.
> 
> Bottom line: having an airflow wider than the finstack improves cooling.
> 
> I'm assuming that the C12 uses fan clips that hook onto the corners of the stock fan. Thus it will be compatible with P14 and A15 fans. In fact, Noctua made such a beast. The link is here, and features the P14 quite prominently.


The above is only true when there is nothing blocking the airflow on down wind side of cooler .. rarely a problem with tower coolers but can be a serious problem with downflow / upflow on pancake coolers with motherboard and it's components compromising airflow on one side of the cooler. Things like tall RAM and GPU PCB can extremely limit the area for downard airflow to move away from cooler. Using a bigger fan can dramatically increase this problem.

I have often seen pancake coolers work much better pulling air away from motherboard rather than pushing air toward motherboard and sometimes causing downflow airflow to circle back up and into fan and cooler,


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Here is where we might disagree. I once tried the TY-140 on the NH-D14. The TY-140 has vents that go out to the side, 150-160mm (I'd have to measure). As such, it blew air around the outside of the finstack. It turned out that the Thermalright TY-140 turned the NH-D14 into a better heatsink than using the NF-P14, which does not flare and is thus limited to 140mm. The proof of the pudding may be the NF-A15, which flares to the side like the TY-140, TY147A, TY-143, etc.
> 
> Bottom line: having an airflow wider than the finstack improves cooling.
> 
> I'm assuming that the C12 uses fan clips that hook onto the corners of the stock fan. Thus it will be compatible with P14 and A15 fans. In fact, Noctua made such a beast. The link is here, and features the P14 quite prominently.
> 
> 
> 
> The above is only true when there is nothing blocking the airflow on down wind side of cooler .. rarely a problem with tower coolers but can be a serious problem with downflow / upflow on pancake coolers with motherboard and it's components compromising airflow on one side of the cooler. Things like tall RAM and GPU PCB can extremely limit the area for downard airflow to move away from cooler. Using a bigger fan can dramatically increase this problem.
> 
> I have often seen pancake coolers work much better pulling air away from motherboard rather than pushing air toward motherboard and sometimes causing downflow airflow to circle back up and into fan and cooler,
Click to expand...

Data beats theory every time. Your experience with upflow vs downflow suggests an interesting experiment for quads.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Data beats theory every time. Your experience with upflow vs downflow suggests an interesting experiment for quads.


I often suggest users of pancake coolers to mount fans so airflow is up and away from motherboard instead of down. 4 out of 5 times they get better temps and the others see no change or so little they cannot tell.

The lower profile the pancake cooler is, the more likely it is to re-use it's own heated exhaust air.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22323763


----------



## squads

That C12P SE14 is exactly the cooler I am using. It is just a C12P with a NH-P14 as the stock fan instead of whatever 120mm fan Noctua stocked earlier. Noctua considered the larger fan an upgrade to the original setup, so I am inclined to believe they found it performed better.

The speculation regarding mobo components disrupting airflow for the C12P does not really hold up as it is a fairly tall top-down cooler. There is nothing even remotely close in my setup that would block airflow from a 140 or 150mm fan.

For the 80mm fan I am also curious to see how it performs. I really just need it to exhaust some air from a dead spot near the cooler (there is a 120mm exhaust above) and balance somewhat the 2x120mm intake fans. Lian-li threw in this 80mm fan spot in the back, which probably should have been a 92mm instead. I am an old head in the computer build business, so I have used my share of 80mm fans and, yeah, they tend to be pretty inefficient. I figure an 80mm running pretty slow on PWM is better than an empty fan grill though.

I just have Linux running at the moment, so I need to get W7 on this rig for stress testing. I can compare temps before and after the CPU fan switch and then after adding the 80mm exhaust. I am guessing people here like data


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squads*
> 
> That C12P SE14 is exactly the cooler I am using. It is just a C12P with a NH-P14 as the stock fan instead of whatever 120mm fan Noctua stocked earlier. Noctua considered the larger fan an upgrade to the original setup, so I am inclined to believe they found it performed better.
> 
> The speculation regarding mobo components disrupting airflow for the C12P does not really hold up as it is a fairly tall top-down cooler. There is nothing even remotely close in my setup that would block airflow from a 140 or 150mm fan.
> 
> For the 80mm fan I am also curious to see how it performs. I really just need it to exhaust some air from a dead spot near the cooler (there is a 120mm exhaust above) and balance somewhat the 2x120mm intake fans. Lian-li threw in this 80mm fan spot in the back, which probably should have been a 92mm instead. I am an old head in the computer build business, so I have used my share of 80mm fans and, yeah, they tend to be pretty inefficient. I figure an 80mm running pretty slow on PWM is better than an empty fan grill though.
> 
> I just have Linux running at the moment, so I need to get W7 on this rig for stress testing. I can compare temps before and after the CPU fan switch and then after adding the 80mm exhaust. I am guessing people here like data


Tweaktown tested NH-C12P with 1x and 2x fans and NH-C12P SE14. 2x fans were 2.7c warmer idle and 2.4c warmer load the normal C12P. SE14 was 1.2c idle and 2.9c cooler load as C12P.
http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/3099/noctua_nh_c12p_se14_cpu_cooler/index6.html
But thier 'test chamber' is an insulated box with 6x 20w halogen lights in it to generate heat and as far as I know no fans to flow air into / out of box .. hardly what I would consider a proper cooler test station.
http://www.tweaktown.com/articles/1200/thermal_chamber_heatsink_testing_methods/index4.html

The only 150mm fan I know of is Thermalright TY-150 measuring 150x173x25.5. NF-A15 is 140mm fan measureing 140x150x25mm. Bpth have impellers measuring a few less than 140mm in diameter.

You are speculating that fan size makes no difference. You could be right, we won't know until you test.

No GPU in upper PCIe sockets?

Look forward to seeing your test results.

Years ago I made custom shrouds to adapt 2x TY-140 fans onto NH-U12


----------



## IndoX

Just built my new rig









ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero Z270
i7-7700k (delidded) @ 4.8ghz (1.225v)
16GB Vengeance LPX @ 3200mhz
EVGA GTX 980 Ti FTW
EVGA 650 GQ, 80+ GOLD 650W
512GB Samsung 960 EVO M.2
Corsair 200r Case (slightly modded)
Noctua NH D15
5x Noctua NF-F12

I have a NF-A14 one the way for bottom intake but it was delayed compared to the other fans.

I had some difficulties with this build. Originally had a H80i v2 - didn't like the temps. I didn't know if the NH D15 would fit the 200r case so I took a chance. There about a 1mm clearing from the fan to the side panel of the case. Temps are MUCH cooler. Mid 50s while gaming. Low 60s on load.

I went with Noctua fans because the stock fans were way too loud and my GPU temps were too high (80 degrees while running 80-90% fan speed), so I needed more fans. I was convinced once I got the D15 and saw the difference in cooling and sound.

Now? My computer is silent with all the fans running at 300-400rpm. I can't hear them because of the airflow my AC unit does (from the next room). On load I ramp up the fans to 60% fan speed and it sounds like my OLD build on idle. My GPU runs at 74-75C at 65-70% fan speed.

I'm convinced buying Noctua going forward.

The best part for me is that the 200r side panel is not windowed so I can't see the ugly color scheme. LOL


----------



## ehume

@IndoX - nice looking system. You might consider removing the rear "grill" if you need further cooling. Clearly with as many fans as you have, one less won't quieten your rig much.

@squads - do consider vibration isolators for your fans, especially any 80mm fans. I did a review of a Lian Li case back in 2014. The rear fan used the case as a sounding board until I installed vibration isolators. Noctua just released what are now the industry's top vibration isolators -- and they cost less than half of the vibration isolators I used to recommend.


----------



## mypickaxe

If you were thinking about replacing the stock Corsair AX1200i power cables and generic Asus provided SATA cables, and you were looking at CableMod, what color scheme do you think would look best?


Brown, Yellow
Silver, Black, Light Blue
Brown, Black, Light Blue
I'm also considering some annodized thumb screws from CableMod as well, but only for the inside of the case as accents. Possibly gold, or cobalt blue.

Eventually I will have water blocks for my SSDs. For now I'm just air cooling them as it seems to work extremely well (low to mid 30s at all times.)



*Second 200mm Noctua installed, need to adjust it a tad, but the cutouts were hard to align for the bottom front intake fan, which sits inside the front panel (not inside the case like the top intake fan.)

I'm selling my NF-F12 iPPC-2000 fans (three) on Fleabae.

Rear exhaust are now dual NF-A14 PWM (140mm), on the top left and bottom right, with front intakes as dual NF-A20 PWM (200mm.)

The rest of the intakes are dedicated to drives and the side mounted 240mm radiator. The top mounted 480mm radiator exhausts instead of intakes. I could switch it around, but I'm thinking it's not worth it for a potential 1-2 degree drop at best.


----------



## equinoxe3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squads*
> 
> Has anyone used a NF-A15 on a C12P cooler? I have one that came with an NF-P14, which does not have PWM. I want to switch it to a PWM and the A15 looks like it will equal or be slightly better compared to the P14.


Yes, I replaced the P14 on mine for the exact same reason (PWM) on my HTPC and it works perfectly


----------



## doyll

@IndoX
I assume you know the front most fan on top is not only drawing heated airflow up form GPU but also stealing cool air coming in your front intakes that you want to go to CPU cooler.

@equinoxe3d
You might get better CPU temps if you turned your C12P cooler fan over so it draws air up through cooler. I assume your PSU is drawing air from insdie of case so it's not a problem for cooler fan either way, but GPU causes all cooler airflow from fan pushing down to turn and come up along side of CPU cooler and some is going back into fan. I don't know how much difference it will make if any, but it's an easy thing to try if you want to find out .. and I'm curious to know too.


----------



## equinoxe3d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You might get better CPU temps if you turned your C12P cooler fan over so it draws air up through cooler. I assume your PSU is drawing air from insdie of case so it's not a problem for cooler fan either way, but GPU causes all cooler airflow from fan pushing down to turn and come up along side of CPU cooler and some is going back into fan. I don't know how much difference it will make if any, but it's an easy thing to try if you want to find out .. and I'm curious to know too.


Incidentally, the pic was taken from your better airflow thread where I asked you if it was worth trying reversing the fan








http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/580#post_25422894

And I did try it (but the results were, sadly, a wash) :
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/590#post_25437299
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *equinoxe3d*
> 
> So I tried inverting the CPU fan and running a benchmark (FFXIV Heavensward) before and after the change to compare. The result in my case was basically a wash: GPU and chipset temps were around 2C cooler with the inverted CPU fan, but the CPU was 2C warmer.
> 
> Since the CPU and exhaust fans are thermally controlled, the additional CPU degrees put it near the end of my fan speed slope and meant the exhaust was almost 200RPM faster in inverted, so that might have been the cause for the cooler temps.
> 
> I see the inverted fan advantage for some setups but in my case I'll leave it as it is and tweak my GPU fan speed curve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


----------



## TerafloppinDatP

Realized I hadn't done this yet, animal0307. Gotta show it off!

CPU: NH-L12
Case intake: 2x NF-A14
Exhaust: 1x NF-F12
Internal: 1x NF-F12 (not shown)


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> I don't know about the CP12P, but I have had non-PWM and PWM versions of the P14, and non-PWM and PWM versions of the A15. The A15 is much the better fans. I had access to P14's for my current rig, and chose two retail A15's (retail A15's max at 1200rpm, while the A15's that come with D15's and D15S's max to 1500rpm).
> 
> Compared to the A15, the P14 is louder. If the P14 fits, so will the A15. If you are considering the change, go with it.
> 
> The only different fan you might chose is a Thermalright TY-147A. Nice fans, but I read some rumbling that the TY series can die start making noises after a few years, while the Noctua all have a 6-year warranty -- which means they expect the fans to last longer.


The nf-P14 is released as the redux now, isn't it?
http://noctua.at/en/nf-p14r-redux-1500-pwm


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> I don't know about the CP12P, but I have had non-PWM and PWM versions of the P14, and non-PWM and PWM versions of the A15. The A15 is much the better fans. I had access to P14's for my current rig, and chose two retail A15's (retail A15's max at 1200rpm, while the A15's that come with D15's and D15S's max to 1500rpm).
> 
> Compared to the A15, the P14 is louder. If the P14 fits, so will the A15. If you are considering the change, go with it.
> 
> The only different fan you might chose is a Thermalright TY-147A. Nice fans, but I read some rumbling that the TY series can die start making noises after a few years, while the Noctua all have a 6-year warranty -- which means they expect the fans to last longer.
> 
> 
> 
> The nf-P14 is released as the redux now, isn't it?
> http://noctua.at/en/nf-p14r-redux-1500-pwm
Click to expand...

The P14 is indeed available as redux, bot in original round and in square form as well. I sill recommend the A14 for square and A15 for round as being the best, most silent fans available. The TY-147A is almost as good as the A14/A15 and better than a P14 IMO. The P14 was a good fan in its day, but was surpassed by the TY-140 as soon as the latter was released. The TY-147A is just like the TY-140, but with better colors.


----------



## doyll

TY-140 and TY-147 were same except for colors, TY-147A has different PWM to RPM curve and idles at lower RPM. I like TY-147A better than A14 and A15, but all three are very good.

Here is air speed and noise level of them for comparisons


----------



## squads

Ok got the A15 and A8 and did some testing along with the old P14. The A15 and P14 performance with the added A8 rear exhaust fan were identical. The P14 that came with the C12P is a 1200rpm version just to clarify, so both fans run at the same speed. The A15 has a better noise profile at full speed, as the P14 tends to have a noticeable buzz to my ear. The huge things is having PWM again so my system is dead silent at idle. I am big on silent computing and pick all my components to that end, but also like to have good cooling.

I also tested the A15 with the A8 exhaust unplugged and temps went up several degrees (CPU and board sensors), so that fan is doing good work back there. It is silent at idle and only barely audible above other fans at full load, so I am happy with those results.

Here are results after several runs of intel burn test on all threads with 12500mb ram. The 1600x has a +20C temp offset so real CPU temps are in the 70's in reality. I will get a pic of the system after I clean up the wiring a little bit.

P14 (+) A8


A15 (+) A8


A15 (-) A8


----------



## Ding23

Will a Silent Wings 3 140mm High Speed fit properly on a D15S with the supplied wire bracket thing? and anyone know how it will compare to the stock NF-A15 PWM?
From the Thermalbench reviews it seems like the SW 3 pushes more air though a rad and quieter than an NF-A14 if that's similar to an A15


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ding23*
> 
> Will a Silent Wings 3 140mm High Speed fit properly on a D15S with the supplied wire bracket thing? and anyone know how it will compare to the stock NF-A15 PWM?
> From the Thermalbench reviews it seems like the SW 3 pushes more air though a rad and quieter than an NF-A14 if that's similar to an A15


Not much point directly taking my review results on a radiator to a lower restriction heatsink to be honest. If you had to do something about a fan, see if the NB-eLoop B14 series will fit somehow- those are even better when up against lower airflow restriction than the radiator I used.


----------



## Ding23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not much point directly taking my review results on a radiator to a lower restriction heatsink to be honest. If you had to do something about a fan, see if the NB-eLoop B14 series will fit somehow- those are even better when up against lower airflow restriction than the radiator I used.


They don't sell eloops here for a decent price, will probably come out twice the price as a SW3 here especially when the SW3 always going on sale.
Is comparing fans with a radiator and something lower restriction going to make a huge difference on the sound/cfm of these 3 fans? I only compared the SW3 to the NF-A14 in those 3 graphs and they seemed to be a bit quieter and move a bit more air through a rad and a bit less without a rad?
I got 2 SW3 for my case and thinking of getting another high speed version to match on my D15S but no clue if it can easily fit without using zipties or something of it it will even be as good as the A15


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ding23*
> 
> They don't sell eloops here for a decent price, will probably come out twice the price as a SW3 here especially when the SW3 always going on sale.
> Is comparing fans with a radiator and something lower restriction going to make a huge difference on the sound/cfm of these 3 fans? I only compared the SW3 to the NF-A14 in those 3 graphs and they seemed to be a bit quieter and move a bit more air through a rad and a bit less without a rad?
> I got 2 SW3 for my case and thinking of getting another high speed version to match on my D15S but no clue if it can easily fit without using zipties or something of it it will even be as good as the A15


I am testing one point on a fan's P-Q curve at each fan RPM, so it is an incomplete picture unless the fans have a similar P-Q curve. I chose a radiator of average airflow restriction to best approximate to my reader base, and also because doing static pressure testing is impractical for a hobby website that earns nothing.

I honestly would not recommend swapping fans on a heatsink as you generally put fans no higher than 1400-1500 RPM, but since your NH-D15S comes with a single fan why not try and use one of those SW3 in conjunction and see? You already have the fans anyway so you are in a different position than most.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squads*
> 
> Ok got the A15 and A8 and did some testing along with the old P14. The A15 and P14 performance with the added A8 rear exhaust fan were identical. The P14 that came with the C12P is a 1200rpm version just to clarify, so both fans run at the same speed. The A15 has a better noise profile at full speed, as the P14 tends to have a noticeable buzz to my ear. The huge things is having PWM again so my system is dead silent at idle. I am big on silent computing and pick all my components to that end, but also like to have good cooling.
> 
> I also tested the A15 with the A8 exhaust unplugged and temps went up several degrees (CPU and board sensors), so that fan is doing good work back there. It is silent at idle and only barely audible above other fans at full load, so I am happy with those results.


I think most people who have used both would agree that the P14 and the A14/A15 push about the same amount of air, but the P14 is significantly louder.

Thank you for letting us know about the actions of the A8. How does it sound?


----------



## Ding23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am testing one point on a fan's P-Q curve at each fan RPM, so it is an incomplete picture unless the fans have a similar P-Q curve. I chose a radiator of average airflow restriction to best approximate to my reader base, and also because doing static pressure testing is impractical for a hobby website that earns nothing.
> 
> I honestly would not recommend swapping fans on a heatsink as you generally put fans no higher than 1400-1500 RPM, but since your NH-D15S comes with a single fan why not try and use one of those SW3 in conjunction and see? You already have the fans anyway so you are in a different position than most.


Oh true I can test to see if it fits with the brackets Noctua supplied, maybe test the temps also but I'm running the current one at 1,000 rpm until the temps get higher and the SW3's I got are max 1,000 rpm, if it fits I guess I will get the High Speed version.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ding23*
> 
> Will a Silent Wings 3 140mm High Speed fit properly on a D15S with the supplied wire bracket thing? and anyone know how it will compare to the stock NF-A15 PWM?
> 
> From the Thermalbench reviews it seems like the SW 3 pushes more air though a rad and quieter than an NF-A14 if that's similar to an A15


Short answer is no, your fan clips will not work.

Long answer: Your D15S fan clips are designed for 120mm fan mounting holes .. that is 105mm spaced holes. SW 3 has 1245mm hole spacing .. same as other square 140mm fan hole spacing.

The single A15 fan will cool within 1-2c of twin fans and be quieter as well.

While geggeg is correct, I would error on the side of fans able to overcome more resistance rather than fan that are only able to meet resistance. The key to remember is as fan speed slows down so does fans ability to overcome resistance. This means a fan with higher resistance rating than we think we need will move much more air at lower rpm so we can have needed airflow at lower noise levels. This is not much of an issue on most air coolers but but be considered with intake vents having filters.


----------



## Ding23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Short answer is no, your fan clips will not work.
> 
> Long answer: Your D15S fan clips are designed for 120mm fan mounting holes .. that is 105mm spaced holes. SW 3 has 1245mm hole spacing .. same as other square 140mm fan hole spacing.
> 
> The single A15 fan will cool within 1-2c of twin fans and be quieter as well.
> 
> While geggeg is correct, I would error on the side of fans able to overcome more resistance rather than fan that are only able to meet resistance. The key to remember is as fan speed slows down so does fans ability to overcome resistance. This means a fan with higher resistance rating than we think we need will move much more air at lower rpm so we can have needed airflow at lower noise levels. This is not much of an issue on most air coolers but but be considered with intake vents having filters.


So I guess the only way is to zip tie? Kind of a shame it doesn't use standard 140mm mounting holes.
So A14 will work better with intake filters than a SW3 around 800-1000rpm(whatever is virtually inaudible)
And a A14 would work better on heatsinks thant the SW3?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The single A15 fan will cool within 1-2c of twin fans and be quieter as well.


Have you measured the noise of a single A15 in the center slot of a D15 or D15S? I can't remember if I measured this, but it was my impression that the A15 pushes harder/spins faster when it is alone, and that twin fans, spinning more slowly, were actually quieter. It was my impression that a center fan broadcasts noise, while a forward fan masks the noise output of the front half of that center fan.

This is my personal experience. These are my favorite heatsinks and I had them on and off my test rig more times than I can count. I have played with all sorts of fan setups. I came to the conclusion that 3 fans on a tandem tower actually produces the lowest noise because the fans run most slowly. This is also true of the Scythe Fuma, which I have in my daughter's rig with 3 San Ace PWM fans.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ding23*
> 
> So I guess the only way is to zip tie? Kind of a shame it doesn't use standard 140mm mounting holes.
> So A14 will work better with intake filters than a SW3 around 800-1000rpm(whatever is virtually inaudible)
> And a A14 would work better on heatsinks thant the SW3?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Have you measured the noise of a single A15 in the center slot of a D15 or D15S? I can't remember if I measured this, but it was my impression that the A15 pushes harder/spins faster when it is alone, and that twin fans, spinning more slowly, were actually quieter. It was my impression that a center fan broadcasts noise, while a forward fan masks the noise output of the front half of that center fan.
> 
> This is my personal experience. These are my favorite heatsinks and I had them on and off my test rig more times than I can count. I have played with all sorts of fan setups. I came to the conclusion that 3 fans on a tandem tower actually produces the lowest noise because the fans run most slowly. This is also true of the Scythe Fuma, which I have in my daughter's rig with 3 San Ace PWM fans.


Sorry, I should have said single fan versus double / triple fans at same rpm .. single fan is 1-2c warmer. The difference is greater at lower rpm.

Wasn't your triple fan testing with back vent cut out with no back fan versus single / duel fans plus rear exhaust fan?


----------



## IndoX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @IndoX
> I assume you know the front most fan on top is not only drawing heated airflow up form GPU but also stealing cool air coming in your front intakes that you want to go to CPU cooler.


That was the goal. My GPU temps were running too hot compared to my old build - just a limitation of the 200r being a budget case with not that great airflow. What I've done is disabled that front most top fan and removed the mesh PCI-E covers so it allows air to go out that way. Saw a 5 degree drop in GPU temps and a ~3-4 degree drop in CPU temps.


----------



## ehume

Quote:

Originally Posted by *doyll* 



> Sorry, I should have said single fan versus double / triple fans at same rpm .. single fan is 1-2c warmer. The difference is greater at lower rpm.
> 
> Wasn't your triple fan testing with back vent cut out with no back fan versus single / duel fans plus rear exhaust fan?


Not only was the triple fan setup with open back, the double fan setup was the same. My daughter's rig is in a Lian Li PC-07 that is aluminum. It never had a rear grill to begin with. Hence there was room for 3 fans. With the D15's, they have all been either in cases with the rear grill removed or on a moving motherboard drawer I picked up to use as a testbed. It is very like an open air rig. I put the D15's on that, with 2 or three fans.

Sometime when you have time listen to a D15 with a single fan versus two. When I listen, the single fan sounds louder. I'd be interested in reading what others have experienced.

I agree with what you and Noctua have found: a single fan comes close to maxing out the ability of the D15 to cool things. Adding a second or a third fan does not improve the results. The only reason I use more than one fan is to get those same results, but more quietly.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IndoX*
> 
> That was the goal. My GPU temps were running too hot compared to my old build - just a limitation of the 200r being a budget case with not that great airflow. What I've done is disabled that front most top fan and removed the mesh PCI-E covers so it allows air to go out that way. Saw a 5 degree drop in GPU temps and a ~3-4 degree drop in CPU temps.


The upper most fan in front of case supply cool air to CPU. The front most fan in top draws the air the top most fan is putting into case right back out before it can cool anything. Removing the PCIe covers is what made the difference, not disabling the upper most front fan. My guess is if you enable it again you will see another couple of degrees change.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Quote:
> Not only was the triple fan setup with open back, the double fan setup was the same. My daughter's rig is in a Lian Li PC-07 that is aluminum. It never had a rear grill to begin with. Hence there was room for 3 fans. With the D15's, they have all been either in cases with the rear grill removed or on a moving motherboard drawer I picked up to use as a testbed. It is very like an open air rig. I put the D15's on that, with 2 or three fans.
> 
> Sometime when you have time listen to a D15 with a single fan versus two. When I listen, the single fan sounds louder. I'd be interested in reading what others have experienced.
> 
> I agree with what you and Noctua have found: a single fan comes close to maxing out the ability of the D15 to cool things. Adding a second or a third fan does not improve the results. The only reason I use more than one fan is to get those same results, but more quietly.


So all of these findings are system based in modified cases, correct?

I have used D15 with 1x and 2x fans and honestly didn't notice a difference is sound, but did notice a slight difference in SPL. with 2x being 1-2dB higher at same rpm .. and temps under load 1-2c higher with single fan.

I think your results are system specific rather than cooler specific. If we knew what the cooler intake air temps were with each setup we could determine which it is.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Quote:
> Not only was the triple fan setup with open back, the double fan setup was the same. My daughter's rig is in a Lian Li PC-07 that is aluminum. It never had a rear grill to begin with. Hence there was room for 3 fans. With the D15's, they have all been either in cases with the rear grill removed or on a moving motherboard drawer I picked up to use as a testbed. It is very like an open air rig. I put the D15's on that, with 2 or three fans.
> 
> Sometime when you have time listen to a D15 with a single fan versus two. When I listen, the single fan sounds louder. I'd be interested in reading what others have experienced.
> 
> I agree with what you and Noctua have found: a single fan comes close to maxing out the ability of the D15 to cool things. Adding a second or a third fan does not improve the results. The only reason I use more than one fan is to get those same results, but more quietly.
> 
> 
> 
> So all of these findings are system based in modified cases, correct?
> 
> I have used D15 with 1x and 2x fans and honestly didn't notice a difference is sound, but did notice a slight difference in SPL. with 2x being 1-2dB higher at same rpm .. and temps under load 1-2c higher with single fan.
> 
> I think your results are system specific rather than cooler specific. If we knew what the cooler intake air temps were with each setup we could determine which it is.
Click to expand...

I try to approximate an open system in my testing. If I left the heatsinks in a case, it would be case-specific. As much as possible I try to eliminate that.

The heatsinks do vary in their SPL. I capture SPL 1 meter out from the vertical mb, normal to the mb, at a spot directly above the heatsink. Those are the numbers I publish, and they can be found in the reviews. Two reasons I don't spout numbers: I don't want to spend the time looking them up, and one listens to a heatsink from multiple directions.

I find your results interesting. It was my subjective impression that the fin stack of a D15 blocked no noise coming out of a middle fan; that the heatsink sounded louder from the front zone (a 45-degree cone) than a front fan and a middle fan. So when I reconstitute my heatsink-testing system with a Coffee Lake CPU I will measure SPL from 1m in front in addition to 1m out.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> I try to approximate an open system in my testing. If I left the heatsinks in a case, it would be case-specific. As much as possible I try to eliminate that.
> 
> The heatsinks do vary in their SPL. I capture SPL 1 meter out from the vertical mb, normal to the mb, at a spot directly above the heatsink. Those are the numbers I publish, and they can be found in the reviews. Two reasons I don't spout numbers: I don't want to spend the time looking them up, and one listens to a heatsink from multiple directions.
> 
> I find your results interesting. It was my subjective impression that the fin stack of a D15 blocked no noise coming out of a middle fan; that the heatsink sounded louder from the front zone (a 45-degree cone) than a front fan and a middle fan. So when I reconstitute my heatsink-testing system with a Coffee Lake CPU I will measure SPL from 1m in front in addition to 1m out.


SPL is sound pressure (I know you know this). What the sound our ears hear is many thing of which SPL is only part of the equation. As we have said many times, how our ears interpret the sound profile is usually more important than the SPL. Do you monitor and use cooler intake air temperature or room air temp?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> I try to approximate an open system in my testing. If I left the heatsinks in a case, it would be case-specific. As much as possible I try to eliminate that.
> 
> The heatsinks do vary in their SPL. I capture SPL 1 meter out from the vertical mb, normal to the mb, at a spot directly above the heatsink. Those are the numbers I publish, and they can be found in the reviews. Two reasons I don't spout numbers: I don't want to spend the time looking them up, and one listens to a heatsink from multiple directions.
> 
> I find your results interesting. It was my subjective impression that the fin stack of a D15 blocked no noise coming out of a middle fan; that the heatsink sounded louder from the front zone (a 45-degree cone) than a front fan and a middle fan. So when I reconstitute my heatsink-testing system with a Coffee Lake CPU I will measure SPL from 1m in front in addition to 1m out.
> 
> 
> 
> SPL is sound pressure (I know you know this). What the sound our ears hear is many thing of which SPL is only part of the equation. As we have said many times, how our ears interpret the sound profile is usually more important than the SPL. Do you monitor and use cooler intake air temperature or room air temp?
Click to expand...

I agree that SPL only measures part of the sound, which is why I report on what I hear. As for temps, I get the intake temp from about 2 inches/5 cm from the center of the intake fan or the center of the fin stack if the fan is embedded. Room air is different in different places. No way we could stabilize that or agree on a standard, so I don't use room air temps.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> I agree that SPL only measures part of the sound, which is why I report on what I hear. As for temps, I get the intake temp from about 2 inches/5 cm from the center of the intake fan or the center of the fin stack if the fan is embedded. Room air is different in different places. No way we could stabilize that or agree on a standard, so I don't use room air temps.


Exactly!!


----------



## cat1092

I'm in for my Noctua NH-D15S, which I converted to a DH-15 by adding the other fan, was thinking that twin fans would be too close to my GPU & why (one of) the needs for the NH-D15S.









Their build quality & simple instructions won me over, and now have many Noctua fans installed, to include my latest, a downwards blowing NF-A9 PWM in a Cooler Master Vortex Plus. While the fan speed didn't increase, the quality of air curve thrown did, plus blowing directly onto the CPU & cooler. There are those who stands by the other way is better, neither are wrong, it's a matter of personal preference with fan installation. The bottom line being, both ways gets the job done.









This is an issue I have with exhaust fans also, how can these be blowing hot air out, while in essence, are blowing air inwards? Seems to me to be more of a rear intake fan when I can't feel hot air forcefully blowing out, just some light suction. When I install an exhaust, the front part of the fan faces out & forcing the hot air along with it. I need to test this concept on my stock Dell OEM exhaust that's mounted like I described to see if temps lowers.

Would had ordered another NF-A9 for the job, unfortunately the exhaust is 3 pin, therefore would be a waste of a good fan.









Cat


----------



## sakae48

I was cleaning my PC last night and found this..



how is this possible? there's no paste on the center on both cold plate and IHS itself


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakae48*
> 
> I was cleaning my PC last night and found this..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how is this possible? there's no paste on the center on both cold plate and IHS itself


Which method of spreading have you used? Line(s)? Pea?


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Which method of spreading have you used? Line(s)? Pea?


i spreaded it through the entire thing if i'm not wrong. now i use the line method across the die area. i've been wondering since my system starts to overheat under intensive usage (4k transcode on premier pro). and now it's jumping up and down ranging from 40~58 on light load


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakae48*
> 
> i spreaded it through the entire thing if i'm not wrong. now i use the line method across the die area. i've been wondering since my system starts to overheat under intensive usage (4k transcode on premier pro). and now it's jumping up and down ranging from 40~58 on light load


If you are in the mood and since you are dissatisfied, try the pea method. Use the latest version of HWiNFO64 to monitor and post a screen-shot (V + T, clearly visible) taken while on full load.


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> If you are in the mood and since you are dissatisfied, try the pea method. Use the latest version of HWiNFO64 to monitor and post a screen-shot (V + T, clearly visible) taken while on full load.


i don't understand the "V+T" but here's the screenshot :


doesnt overheat anymore but still kinda concerned of the max temperature. is it normal for 3.7GHz octa core on NH-U12P? i got a lot of negative pressure on the load tho.. maybe i need to replace one of the intake fan w/ another identical fan w/ CPU one?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakae48*
> 
> I was cleaning my PC last night and found this..
> 
> 
> 
> how is this possible? there's no paste on the center on both cold plate and IHS itself


What were your temps before you cleaned?

Your current temps seem high, but It looks like your case airflow is good. I say this because the peak temp is reached almost immediately after heavy load starts. What is cooler fan speed? I'm thinking maybe cooler fans are not running at full speed.


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What were your temps before you cleaned?
> 
> Your current temps seem high, but It looks like your case airflow is good. I say this because the peak temp is reached almost immediately after heavy load starts. What is cooler fan speed? I'm thinking maybe cooler fans are not running at full speed.


my temps were hitting the shutdown threshold before a clean up. 80C i guess?
and after clean up + different orientation (back to horizontal flow instead of vertical), it's down to 78C

now i fiddled my vcore and here's the result :



I don't know how my vcore could be lowered that much (almost 100mV downvolt!). i can't even get 37x on 1.36v like a month ago








might be my SoC voltage that helps me a lot? i was running at 1v SoC a month ago and now it runs at 1.09v


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakae48*
> 
> my temps were hitting the shutdown threshold before a clean up. 80C i guess?
> and after clean up + different orientation (back to horizontal flow instead of vertical), it's down to 78C
> 
> now i fiddled my vcore and here's the result :
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how my vcore could be lowered that much (almost 100mV downvolt!). i can't even get 37x on 1.36v like a month ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> might be my SoC voltage that helps me a lot? i was running at 1v SoC a month ago and now it runs at 1.09v


Were your case filters, fans, grills, cooler fins, etc. restricting airflow before cleaning?

It's hard to tell for sure, but I'm guessing the center area had a little TIM filing voids with metal to metal contact. Often the CPU chip area is either lower or higher than rest of IHS. If lower then a flat cooler base cannot make direct contact and is the reason many bases are convex .. center is slightly raise .. inorder to give good contact to center area of IHS. With almost all CPU chips being in center area of IHS this give best heat transfer without lapping iHS and cooler base. Most people use too much TIM. We do not want a layer of TIM between cooler base and IHS becuase TIM heat conductivity is 2-12W/m K compared to copper 400W/m K or aluminum 205W/m K. But of course we cannot have complete metal to metal because of it's crystalline sturcture, so we need to use TIM to fill the voids, but we do not want a layer of TIM between surfaces.









Your current temps look better, but It looks like your case airflow is is not keeping up with cooler airflow demands. I say this because the temp keeps slowing rising through the entire load test. Also, what are case and cooler fan speeds? I have not used Dark Base 900 Pro, but hear it has decent airflow.


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Were your case filters, fans, grills, cooler fins, etc. restricting airflow before cleaning?
> 
> It's hard to tell for sure, but I'm guessing the center area had a little TIM filing voids with metal to metal contact. Often the CPU chip area is either lower or higher than rest of IHS. If lower then a flat cooler base cannot make direct contact and is the reason many bases are convex .. center is slightly raise .. inorder to give good contact to center area of IHS. With almost all CPU chips being in center area of IHS this give best heat transfer without lapping iHS and cooler base. Most people use too much TIM. We do not want a layer of TIM between cooler base and IHS becuase TIM heat conductivity is 2-12W/m K compared to copper 400W/m K or aluminum 205W/m K. But of course we cannot have complete metal to metal because of it's crystalline sturcture, so we need to use TIM to fill the voids, but we do not want a layer of TIM between surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your current temps look better, but It looks like your case airflow is is not keeping up with cooler airflow demands. I say this because the temp keeps slowing rising through the entire load test. Also, what are case and cooler fan speeds? I have not used Dark Base 900 Pro, but hear it has decent airflow.


the filters itself are a bit restrictive but the dust were not clogging the filter that much ( i assume, since the dust amount were not much)
front case is restrictive since there's dampened door but the bottom intake were good.
cooler fins has no restrictive dust.

buying a good PC fan is a bit too expensive for me but i got an industrial PWM fan, identical to my CPU fan. i'll give a shot to replace one of bottom fan and plug it to the optional cpu header. that might be helped a lot. I just need another molex and 4 pin extension (3 Amps fan.. my board might turned as a bbq if i plugged them directly







)

and yes we don't want a direct metal to metal since there's lots of micro pits there. i wonder if that "empty" square were actually filled w/ TIM there









-add- missed your CPU and chassis fan speed question









CPU fan were running at 1600 on low load and 2300-ish up to 70C. higher than 70, it runs at 7500~7700 maximum.
front lower fan runs constantly at 1000RPM while the upper front runs at 650~1000RPM depending on the CPU fan
front bottom fan rated 86.5CFM 0.45mmH2O 2700RPM runs at approx. 1500RPM
center bottom fan rated at 130CFM w/o static pressure info (3 blade, should be low static pressure) 4000RPM runs at approx. 1600-ish
rear fan runs at 560~1000RPM depending on CPU temp
top fan 2x NF-P12 running at 900~1300 depending on combination of PCH and CPU temp


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakae48*
> 
> the filters itself are a bit restrictive but the dust were not clogging the filter that much ( i assume, since the dust amount were not much)
> front case is restrictive since there's dampened door but the bottom intake were good.
> cooler fins has no restrictive dust.
> 
> buying a good PC fan is a bit too expensive for me but i got an industrial PWM fan, identical to my CPU fan. i'll give a shot to replace one of bottom fan and plug it to the optional cpu header. that might be helped a lot. I just need another molex and 4 pin extension (3 Amps fan.. my board might turned as a bbq if i plugged them directly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> and yes we don't want a direct metal to metal since there's lots of micro pits there. i wonder if that "empty" square were actually filled w/ TIM there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -add- missed your CPU and chassis fan speed question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU fan were running at 1600 on low load and 2300-ish up to 70C. higher than 70, it runs at 7500~7700 maximum.
> front lower fan runs constantly at 1000RPM while the upper front runs at 650~1000RPM depending on the CPU fan
> front bottom fan rated 86.5CFM 0.45mmH2O 2700RPM runs at approx. 1500RPM
> center bottom fan rated at 130CFM w/o static pressure info (3 blade, should be low static pressure) 4000RPM runs at approx. 1600-ish
> rear fan runs at 560~1000RPM depending on CPU temp
> top fan 2x NF-P12 running at 900~1300 depending on combination of PCH and CPU temp


Computer fans do not need much restriction to lower their airflow. Our fans have 0.50-1.5mm H2O pressure differnential .. to put that into perspective that is 0.0007 - 0.0021 psi. We can blow air out of our lungs many times harder than our fans can.









You misunderstood .. we want metal to metal with TIM filling void, not a layer of TIM between surfaces.

Bottom to top airflow moves heated exhaust from GPU up into CPU cooler .. we do not want that because that will increase the air temp going into CPU cooler and every degree hotter the air is going in translates to about the same degree hotter the CPU will be.

Sorry to be so blunt but 88.5 cfm sound good, but that is free airflow rating and our cases with filters have almost 0.45mm H2O resistances so 0.45 mm H2O rating means even at full speed this fan is moving almost no air. All of my case fans have 1.3-1.5mm H2O ratings.









The stock case fans are Silent Wings 3 140mm PWM fans rated 59.5cfm & 1.08mm H2O.
If you need more airflow than stock fans supply, any fans with lower mm H2O rating need to be replace d.


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Computer fans do not need much restriction to lower their airflow. Our fans have 0.50-1.5mm H2O pressure differnential .. to put that into perspective that is 0.0007 - 0.0021 psi. We can blow air out of our lungs many times harder than our fans can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You misunderstood .. we want metal to metal with TIM filling void, not a layer of TIM between surfaces.
> 
> Bottom to top airflow moves heated exhaust from GPU up into CPU cooler .. we do not want that because that will increase the air temp going into CPU cooler and every degree hotter the air is going in translates to about the same degree hotter the CPU will be.
> 
> Sorry to be so blunt but 88.5 cfm sound good, but that is free airflow rating and our cases with filters have almost 0.45mm H2O resistances so 0.45 mm H2O rating means even at full speed this fan is moving almost no air. All of my case fans have 1.3-1.5mm H2O ratings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stock case fans are Silent Wings 3 140mm PWM fans rated 59.5cfm & 1.08mm H2O.
> If you need more airflow than stock fans supply, any fans with lower mm H2O rating need to be replace d.


oh yeah.. i didn't word it right








i'm on inverted ATX style.. forgot to mention that one








so, i need to replace that sanyo denki fan.. the nidec 450 pulls a good amount of air w/ filter already.. at least as good as my noctua exhaust fan. might not need to be replaced?
CPU fan rated at 225CFM 3.8mmH2O. might be good if i add this one as my intake fan?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakae48*
> 
> oh yeah.. i didn't word it right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm on inverted ATX style.. forgot to mention that one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so, i need to replace that sanyo denki fan.. the nidec 450 pulls a good amount of air w/ filter already.. at least as good as my noctua exhaust fan. might not need to be replaced?
> CPU fan rated at 225CFM 3.8mmH2O. might be good if i add this one as my intake fan?


Sounds like many of your fans are either extremely wimpy or ear-shattering extreme overkill .








Problems with having such a wide variety of fans is tuning their speeds so they all work together. The low powered are near worthless and are easily overpowered by 'normal' (stock) case fans while the extreme high powered ones need throttled way down in speed to stop them from moving too much air and destroying the airflow from stock case fans.

Inverted does make a difference. Bottom fan will supply cool air to CPU cooler, but might also push GPU heated exhaust up where in could be drawn back into itself. Really hard to say without knowing what actual air temp going into cooler fans. This is how I monitor airflow temps. It's low cost and works well.


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sounds like many of your fans are either extremely wimpy or ear-shattering extreme overkill .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Problems with having such a wide variety of fans is tuning their speeds so they all work together. The low powered are near worthless and are easily overpowered by 'normal' (stock) case fans while the extreme high powered ones need throttled way down in speed to stop them from moving too much air and destroying the airflow from stock case fans.
> 
> Inverted does make a difference. Bottom fan will supply cool air to CPU cooler, but might also push GPU heated exhaust up where in could be drawn back into itself. Really hard to say without knowing what actual air temp going into cooler fans. This is how I monitor airflow temps. It's low cost and works well.


lol yeah.. some of them indeed a child of jet engine while some are just a snail powered truck









i'll get rid the slowest one soon. i cant replace all of them w/ 38mm jet fans since there's not much space especially on the front. i fitted 38mm once just for realizing the filter can't be attached anymore and ended tearing the whole thing apart without any progress









GPU temp seems fine so far. 32~40C light load and 62~66C heavy load on both core and vrm. but maybe i'll add a temp probe to my board for case temperature reading


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakae48*
> 
> lol yeah.. some of them indeed a child of jet engine while some are just a snail powered truck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'll get rid the slowest one soon. i cant replace all of them w/ 38mm jet fans since there's not much space especially on the front. i fitted 38mm once just for realizing the filter can't be attached anymore and ended tearing the whole thing apart without any progress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPU temp seems fine so far. 32~40C light load and 62~66C heavy load on both core and vrm. but maybe i'll add a temp probe to my board for case temperature reading


0.5mm H2O is more like a snail powered baby carriage.







That is such a low static pressure rating that stock case fans will push air out the vent that fan is on .. and if your 3.8mm H2O fan is used as a case intake, at 1/3 speed it is pushing more than stock case fans can. .. meaning they are doing nothing. It is like you said 'a child of jet engine' and has no place in a quiet running system.


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 0.5mm H2O is more like a snail powered baby carriage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is such a low static pressure rating that stock case fans will push air out the vent that fan is on .. and if your 3.8mm H2O fan is used as a case intake, at 1/3 speed it is pushing more than stock case fans can. .. meaning they are doing nothing. It is like you said 'a child of jet engine' and has no place in a quiet running system.


believe me.. that son of jet is quiet just like devil's whisper on 1/5 speed








but please don't complaint if they were mad. they'll scream like someone puts a holy book on devil's head :lachen

hmm.. maybe the stock fan could be good enough just to cool my WD black a bit?








the bottom fans couldn't give the upper drives a good amount of airflow

here's my flow target



the flow is more or less neutral flow until the CPU fan kicked above 3000MHz

pardon for the "cable management". can't do better w/ that non-modular PSU

-add-

my room temp is 29C yet no idea about the case ambient


----------



## Unsaid90

Seeing that this is the Noctua thread I thought I'd ask a quick question :
I have had my DH-14 since 2011 and it's still serving my setup , cooling overclocked 2500k.
I am planning to upgrade later this year and I was just wondering how the cooler holds up with modern times ?
1) Is it compatible with LGA1155 v2 (I want to get 8700k)
2) Is it worth having such a cooler without scalping 8700k ? ( I hear it wont be efficient ? )
3) I still have only 1 stock fan installed on it. Would it be worth it to just buy 2 newer fans when re-installing the cooler on the new platform ?

thx in advance and have a nice day.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unsaid90*
> 
> Seeing that this is the Noctua thread I thought I'd ask a quick question :
> I have had my DH-14 since 2011 and it's still serving my setup , cooling overclocked 2500k.
> I am planning to upgrade later this year and I was just wondering how the cooler holds up with modern times ?
> 1) Is it compatible with LGA1155 v2 (I want to get 8700k)
> 2) Is it worth having such a cooler without scalping 8700k ? ( I hear it wont be efficient ? )
> 3) I still have only 1 stock fan installed on it. Would it be worth it to just buy 2 newer fans when re-installing the cooler on the new platform ?
> 
> thx in advance and have a nice day.


1) I plan to use a similar heatsink on an 8700k when the CPU comes out.

2) The NH-D14 holds up. It will not scalp an 8700k.

3) When you buy RAM buy low profile RAM so you can use 140mm fan in front as well as middle. You may wish to get two NF-15 PWM's to update your heatsink. Similar and less expensive fans would be two TR TY-147A's. I reviewed heatsinks for Overclockers. When I used two NF-15 PWM's I got the same results as two NF-15 PWM's on the NH-D15.

Don't buy coxcombs on your RAM. RAM today uses low voltages. Use low profile RAM.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unsaid90*
> 
> Seeing that this is the Noctua thread I thought I'd ask a quick question :
> I have had my DH-14 since 2011 and it's still serving my setup , cooling overclocked 2500k.
> I am planning to upgrade later this year and I was just wondering how the cooler holds up with modern times ?
> 1) Is it compatible with LGA1155 v2 (I want to get 8700k)
> 2) Is it worth having such a cooler without scalping 8700k ? ( I hear it wont be efficient ? )
> 3) I still have only 1 stock fan installed on it. Would it be worth it to just buy 2 newer fans when re-installing the cooler on the new platform ?
> 
> thx in advance and have a nice day.


What @ehume said.








NH-D14 has 44mm from top of CPU to bottom of fins so will clean RAM as tall as 49mm. but as ehume said get RAM that is not too tall. Normal RAM without 'coxcombs' is 26mm tall. As ehume said get RAM short enough so a 140mm fan will fit over it. RAM height limit is dependent on case CPU clearance. Case CPU clearance plus 5 mm equals combined height of RAM and front fan.
Example
If case has170 CPU clearance = 140mm fans + 30mm maximum RAM height.


----------



## Unsaid90

Thanks to you both for the reassurances. I'll keep using the gorgeous cooler then and hope to achieve some moderate overclocking with it.
As for ram, I'll sure keep an eye on its height.


----------



## Gdourado

I am wondering if there is a big performance difference between the NH-D14 and the NH-U14S ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdourado*
> 
> I am wondering if there is a big performance difference between the NH-D14 and the NH-U14S ?


The D14 will handle more heat than U14S. The actual temperature difference is from 1-2c for stock and low overclocking to 4-6c when extreme overclocking.


----------



## Gdourado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The D14 will handle more heat than U14S. The actual temperature difference is from 1-2c for stock and low overclocking to 4-6c when extreme overclocking.


Thanks for letting me know.
I think the u14 might be worth it for the extra silence and less suspended weight and volume on the board.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdourado*
> 
> Thanks for letting me know.
> I think the u14 might be worth it for the extra silence and less suspended weight and volume on the board.


Either is good very good so unless you are doing serious overclocking U14S will be fine. Only thing I will caution you about is it is very wide so make sure it will not interfere / block top PCIe socket if you need it for GPU use.


----------



## Gdourado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Either is good very good so unless you are doing serious overclocking U14S will be fine. Only thing I will caution you about is it is very wide so make sure it will not interfere / block top PCIe socket if you need it for GPU use.


I am not really to ultimate clocks.
For gaming, there are some diminished returns.
And with higher voltage, the noise and heat becomes too much.
My current cpu is a 3770k. I run it at 4.5 1.22v.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdourado*
> 
> I am not really to ultimate clocks.
> For gaming, there are some diminished returns.
> And with higher voltage, the noise and heat becomes too much.
> My current cpu is a 3770k. I run it at 4.5 1.22v.


I don't know what your total system is but most builds do not have good case airflow. This causes the airflow to cooler (GPU and CPU to be up to 20c warmer than room air when they are working hard. You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.


----------



## Unsaid90

Guys, could you please advise, if any of these fans are compatible and good for DH14.
I can get a couple of them for free, so that's why I'm asking. Above someone advised me to get other fans, but they're a slightly more expensive. Aren't they all essentially the same and I just need 140mm pwm (or what is the most modern technology for speed tuning) ?
https://cougargaming.com/products/fans/
thx in advance.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unsaid90*
> 
> Guys, could you please advise, if any of these fans are compatible and good for DH14.
> I can get a couple of them for free, so that's why I'm asking. Above someone advised me to get other fans, but they're a slightly more expensive. Aren't they all essentially the same and I just need 140mm pwm (or what is the most modern technology for speed tuning) ?
> https://cougargaming.com/products/fans/
> thx in advance.


The link you supplied does not go to a specific fan so no way of knowing what fans they are. Yes, I would use 2x 140mm PWM fans as first choice, but that does not mean variable voltage fans are not just as good .. or that 1x 140 and 1x120mm or 2x 120mm fans won't work well.


----------



## Unsaid90

I'm just clueless, about how the fans adjust their speed, that's all.
I'm building a new system in a few months on Z370 8700k - will I need 3 pin or 4 pin pwm ?
Right now I'm running a midly o/ced 2500k on P67 Sabertooth if that helps - what kind of connectors do I have ? 3 or 4 pin ?


----------



## sakae48

most board nowadays are PWM compatible fan header. i haven't seen one w/ 3 pin header for CPU fan after LGA775 days. go with 4 pin fans.

anyway, isn't D14 already comes w/ fans? they should works just fine even w/o PWM. speed still adjustable on DC mode


----------



## Unsaid90

mine has just one stock fan and i thought it would be nice to upgrade it, since this one has served me well since 2011 maybe it doesnt work as well as it used to?... + 2 is better than one so ...
so i'll get 2x 140mm from cougar then, with 4 pin connectors and hope for the best, that it works on both platforms.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unsaid90*
> 
> I'm just clueless, about how the fans adjust their speed, that's all.
> I'm building a new system in a few months on Z370 8700k - will I need 3 pin or 4 pin pwm ?
> Right now I'm running a midly o/ced 2500k on P67 Sabertooth if that helps - what kind of connectors do I have ? 3 or 4 pin ?


And we are clueless as to what you are trying to find out.








Most motherboard today have 4-pin CPU fan headers that can be used PWM or variable voltage. The only D14 coolers that came with PWM fans were the limited edition 2011 model. All others came with variable voltage fans, 1x 140mm and 1x 120mm.

I do not know if your motherboard CPU fan headers are PWM, variable voltage or can if you can select one or the other
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unsaid90*
> 
> mine has just one stock fan and i thought it would be nice to upgrade it, since this one has served me well since 2011 maybe it doesnt work as well as it used to?... + 2 is better than one so ...
> so i'll get 2x 140mm from cougar then, with 4 pin connectors and hope for the best, that it works on both platforms.


Like I said above no idea what Cougar fans you are talking about so can't offer and educated opinion.


----------



## ehume

The original D14 came with voltage-regulated fans, in essence fixed-speed fans. If your RAM is low enough you can use two 140mm fans. In that case I would recommend a pair of the TR TY-147A (they come stock PWM) or a pair of the Noctua NF-A15 PWM (you have to specify PWM).

The Noctua fan clips for the NH-D14 clip on spaces for 120mm standard screw-holes (105mm apart). Both the TY-147A and the NF-A15 use 120mm screw-holes, so they fit in with the D14 design scheme. The Cougar fans, OTOH, use 140mm standard screw-holes. You would have to use ziptie screws (see my sig) to fasten them to the D14.

If you do not have low-profile RAM (the only kind to buy) you will not be able to fit a 140mm fan over it. You will have to get a 120mm fan (D14 comes stock with a 120mm fan in front). Be sure you get a PWM fan with plenty of static pressure.

For PWM fans if you use a Y-cable be sure to get a PWM Y-cable -- that has a 4-lead connector at one arm and 3 leads (in 4 positions) in the other arm. The reason for this is that the RPM line will be absent in one arm; the motherboard gets confused if more than one fan reports its RPM.


----------



## Unsaid90

wow that ziptie screw is a great idea. i happen to have recently bought some spare ones for cable management. will use them this way now.


----------



## Unsaid90

Sorry for confusion.
Choosing between these 2 in particular :
1) https://cougargaming.com/products/fans/vortex_pwm_fan/
2) https://cougargaming.com/products/fans/cfd_red_led_fan/

So I take it, pwm can be quieter sometimes and more efficient ? or is the difference negligible.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unsaid90*
> 
> Sorry for confusion.
> Choosing between these 2 in particular :
> 1) https://cougargaming.com/products/fans/vortex_pwm_fan/
> 2) https://cougargaming.com/products/fans/cfd_red_led_fan/
> 
> So I take it, pwm can be quieter sometimes and more efficient ? or is the difference negligible.


I agree wiht ehume. If you can get TY-147A fans and like black frame with white fan. If you want orange fans look at TY-143. They have a nice orange impeller with red housing.

If you want frame black, paint it.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unsaid90*
> 
> Sorry for confusion.
> Choosing between these 2 in particular :
> 1) https://cougargaming.com/products/fans/vortex_pwm_fan/
> 2) https://cougargaming.com/products/fans/cfd_red_led_fan/
> 
> So I take it, pwm can be quieter sometimes and more efficient ? or is the difference negligible.


The 140mm versions of both fans will not fit the clips on the D14. You would have to use ziptie screws. While I have used those on my heatsinks and they do work, I prefer purpose-made fan clips.


----------



## Unsaid90

So my stock cooler is 140mm , but has special 120mm fitting ? ;/ that was confusing.
So ok, screw these 140mm fans, they both have 120mm versions should I just get one of those ?
I am unfortunately (or not?) stuck with Cougar fans selection right now, my gf will work at a gaming expo and can get some of their stuff we choose for free as a bonus.


----------



## ehume

Standard computer fans come in four sizes:

Under 120mm in diameter: do not use these

120mm diameter; like the Noctua NF-P12 that comes stock with the NH-D14.

140mm with standard 120mm screw-holes, like the TR TY-14x series, the Noctua NF-P14 (stock with NH-D14) and the NF-A15.

140mm with standard 140mm screw-holes, like the Cougar fans you linked to.

The NH-D14 comes with fan clips that fit in standard 120mm screw-holes (standard 120mm screw-holes are 105mm apart). P12 and P14 have 120mm screw-holes. The Cougars won't fit.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unsaid90*
> 
> So my stock cooler is 140mm , but has special 120mm fitting ? ;/ that was confusing.
> So ok, screw these 140mm fans, they both have 120mm versions should I just get one of those ?
> I am unfortunately (or not?) stuck with Cougar fans selection right now, my gf will work at a gaming expo and can get some of their stuff we choose for free as a bonus.


There are many coolers using rounded 140mm fans with 105mm mounting holes (120mm fans have 105mm mounting holes); Phanteks, Thermalright, Noctua, Silverstone, etc. all have coolers using 140mm fans with 105mm mounting holes.


----------



## SimonOcean

Wasn't is back in June that Noctua presented new A series 120mm fans? Any word on when these will be available to buy? Everything seems to have gone totally quiet.


----------



## pantsaregood

Just so everyone knows, Noctua will happily ship you clips for standard 140mm fans that are compatible with the NH-D14 and NH-D15. I've got NF-A14 iPPC 3000 fans attached to my NH-D15 with them.

http://noctua.at/en/nh-d15/faq

It's explained in the very first question here.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pantsaregood*
> 
> Just so everyone knows, Noctua will happily ship you clips for standard 140mm fans that are compatible with the NH-D14 and NH-D15. I've got NF-A14 iPPC 3000 fans attached to my NH-D15 with them.
> 
> http://noctua.at/en/nh-d15/faq
> 
> It's explained in the very first question here.


First of all, +rep for finding that info and sharing it here.

But don't think a square frame 140mm fan will fit in the middle slot. Most mb's sport heatsinks for their vrm's there. I had to tilt the 140mm standard fans to test them on an NH-D14. Round frames fit in there nicely. note: I had to change my original word choice to pass the website's autocensors.

Found an image of a 140mm square frame fan on a D14:


----------



## ErrantPigeon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> But don't think a square frame 140mm fan will fit in the middle slot. Most mb's sport heatsinks for their vrm's there. I had to **** 140mm standard fans to test them on an NH-D14. Round frames fit in there nicely.


It also depends on whether the fan frame is open or closed. On the NH-D15(S), the mounting screws will prevent a 140mm square fan with closed corners to go low enough, while open corners will allow it to fit in almost like a round frame 140mm fan.


----------



## Unsaid90

So these fans you're talking about have mounting holes spacing that's standard for 140mm fans ?
I totally need a couple of fan clips, do I just write to support @ noctua or some other email ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unsaid90*
> 
> So these fans you're talking about have mounting holes spacing that's standard for 140mm fans ?
> I totally need a couple of fan clips, do I just write to support @ noctua or some other email ?


Quote:


> *Can I install a 140mm fan with a square frame (e.g. NF-A14)?*
> Yes, fan clips for installing square frame 140mm fans (such as the NF-A14) are available on request via our customer support.


Send Noctua customer support an email explaining what cooler you have and that you would like fan clips for 140mm fan with 124.5mm mounting hole spacing.
Quote:


> *Support contact*
> Do you have any questions or problems in connection with our products? Our support team is happy to help you at any time! You can contact our service team at [email protected] or using our contact form.
> 
> Please note that we feel obliged to respond to every customer inquiry in an appropriate time frame. However, it may occur that your mail server or email provider refuses our reply or accidentally moves it to the spam folder. We use a ticketing system that sends a confirmation receipt when we receive your inquiry. In case you don't get a receipt within 15 minutes after sending your inquiry or if you don't get a reply from our support team after 7 working days, please check your spam folders or contact us using a different mail account.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unsaid90*
> 
> So these fans you're talking about have mounting holes spacing that's standard for 140mm fans ?
> I totally need a couple of fan clips, do I just write to support @ noctua or some other email ?


140mm square framed fans like the Cougars or the NF-A14: while Noctua may make clips for them, I recommend you not use them. Instead, use TR-TY-147A or Noctua NF-A15 PWM fans.


----------



## Unsaid90

Here is the response I got from customer support anyway :

" The most "modern" solution would be getting 1x NF-P14r-redux 1500 PWM and 1x NF-P12 PWM or NF-F12 PWM. The included fan clips can be used to mount the aforementioned fans.

140 fans with 124,5x124,5 mm mounting hole spacing can not be mounted on the NH-D14 with the included fan clips. Seperate fan clips aren't available aswell. "

So I will probably end up using cougar fans for the case cooling and your recommendations for the actual fan. they arent much more expensive anyways.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unsaid90*
> 
> Here is the response I got from customer support anyway :
> 
> " The most "modern" solution would be getting 1x NF-P14r-redux 1500 PWM and 1x NF-P12 PWM or NF-F12 PWM. The included fan clips can be used to mount the aforementioned fans.
> 
> 140 fans with 124,5x124,5 mm mounting hole spacing can not be mounted on the NH-D14 with the included fan clips. Seperate fan clips aren't available aswell. "
> 
> So I will probably end up using cougar fans for the case cooling and your recommendations for the actual fan. they arent much more expensive anyways.


If you can afford it, go with the NF-A15 or the TY-147A. The NF-P14 redux is a nice fan, but not as quiet as the first two.


----------



## czin125

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimonOcean*
> 
> Wasn't is back in June that Noctua presented new A series 120mm fans? Any word on when these will be available to buy? Everything seems to have gone totally quiet.


Supposedly Q3 so Sept 31 at the latest?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unsaid90*
> 
> Here is the response I got from customer support anyway :
> 
> " The most "modern" solution would be getting 1x NF-P14r-redux 1500 PWM and 1x NF-P12 PWM or NF-F12 PWM. The included fan clips can be used to mount the aforementioned fans.
> 
> 140 fans with 124,5x124,5 mm mounting hole spacing can not be mounted on the NH-D14 with the included fan clips. Seperate fan clips aren't available aswell. "
> 
> So I will probably end up using cougar fans for the case cooling and your recommendations for the actual fan. they arent much more expensive anyways.


Have you looked at Phanteks PH-F140HP_II adn PH-F120MP. F140HP_II is a round frame with 05mm mountng holes like NF-A15 and TY-147A.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *czin125*
> 
> Supposedly Q3 so Sept 31 at the latest?


New product releases are after later than originally suggested.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> First of all, +rep for finding that info and sharing it here.
> 
> But don't think a square frame 140mm fan will fit in the middle slot. Most mb's sport heatsinks for their vrm's there. I had to tilt the 140mm standard fans to test them on an NH-D14. Round frames fit in there nicely. note: I had to change my original word choice to pass the website's autocensors.
> 
> Found an image of a 140mm square frame fan on a D14:


Here is how NF-A14 iPPC-3000RPM fans look when mounted on D15. Looks like cooler was made for them.









From http://www.relaxedtech.com/reviews/noctua/nf-a14-industrialppc/5 review, but I would not pay any attention to their test results unless you have an identical system in Antec 900 case .. because they are not testing cooler against cooler, but how different cooler preform in a specific system .. theirs. Other testing I've seen and done shows high performance fans like NF-A14 iPPC-2000 and 3000 lower CPU temps by about 8-10c below what stock cooler fans do. But to do this in a case requires changing case fans to hi-performance fans so case can supply the cool airflow needed for hi-performance cooler fans to receive their needed cool air supply. If case fans do not supply needed cool air the cooler fans re-use their own heated exhaust air to make up the difference and we know that every degree warmer the air into cooler when CPU is under extreme load is a degree warmer the CPU is.


----------



## sakae48

and here is SW3 on NH-U12P
just for gig (i use it daily tho







)
anyway, is that fan retention thing could be used on NH-U12P? and where could i get it?
i don't really like the retentions that comes w/ U12P. it's pain to get it done


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakae48*
> 
> 
> and here is SW3 on NH-U12P
> just for gig (i use it daily tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> anyway, is that fan retention thing could be used on NH-U12P? and where could i get it?
> i don't really like the retentions that comes w/ U12P. it's pain to get it done


I edited my previous post so you might want to re-read it.

Here is image of D15 with stock A15 fans using 105mm spaced mounting holes and usign A14-iPPC fans with 124.5mm mounting holes. I scaled them so both are same size. It looks like the same fan clips were used on A14-iPPC fans as on A15 fans and they just stretched (maybe re-bent them some) to fit onto A14-iPPC fans.

I know @MicroCat has used A14-iPPC fans on his D14 and D15. Maybe he will post up with more information.


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I edited my previous post so you might want to re-read it.
> 
> Here is image of D15 with stock A15 fans using 105mm spaced mounting holes and usign A14-iPPC fans with 124.5mm mounting holes. I scaled them so both are same size. It looks like the same fan clips were used on A14-iPPC fans as on A15 fans and they just stretched (maybe re-bent them some) to fit onto A14-iPPC fans.
> 
> I know @MicroCat has used A14-iPPC fans on his D14 and D15. Maybe he will post up with more information.


im sorry but im a bit confused


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakae48*
> 
> im sorry but im a bit confused


Sorry, but so am I. I thought there was a post asking about fan clips but now it's gone and as it was the 1st post after mine I quoted yours instead of it .. because it is gone. Either way I'm at least as much if not more confused than you.


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, but so am I. I thought there was a post asking about fan clips but now it's gone and as it was the 1st post after mine I quoted yours instead of it .. because it is gone. Either way I'm at least as much if not more confused than you.


ah, that makes sense.. no problem. all good









still waiting for answer


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakae48*
> 
> ah, that makes sense.. no problem. all good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> still waiting for answer


If your included clips won't fit (I assume the will not) you could try contacting Noctua and asking them what fan clips will fit 140mm square fans on your NH-U12P, but they may say there are none. NH-U12P is designed to use 120mm fan cooler.


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If your included clips won't fit (I assume the will not) you could try contacting Noctua and asking them what fan clips will fit 140mm square fans on your NH-U12P, but they may say there are none. NH-U12P is designed to use 120mm fan cooler.


hmm, yeah.. they probably say "no, but it should be do-able if you buy our NF-A15 fan instead"








did you have any idea to make it looks good? i don't want to use those ghetto mounting for a long period. doesnt looks pleasant at all lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakae48*
> 
> hmm, yeah.. they probably say "no, but it should be do-able if you buy our NF-A15 fan instead"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you have any idea to make it looks good? i don't want to use those ghetto mounting for a long period. doesnt looks pleasant at all lol


Sorry, no. Maybe buy a piece of piano wire same size as fan clip wire and bend it to make your own fan clip.


----------



## epic1337

zip ties works and its cheaper, but it wont be pretty.

speaking of fans, can a 120mm fan be mounted on an NH-L9 without an adapter? directly screwing the 120mm with just one hole.


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, no. Maybe buy a piece of piano wire same size as fan clip wire and bend it to make your own fan clip.


are those wire stiff enough to be bent?.. i might snip some of my piano's string









lol nope.. i won't destroy piano


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakae48*
> 
> are those wire stiff enough to be bent?.. i might snip some of my piano's string
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol nope.. i won't destroy piano


PIano wire I'm talking about is 18-20 guage (about 1mm) tempered steel wire that you can buy at hobby stores.


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> PIano wire I'm talking about is 18-20 guage (about 1mm) tempered steel wire that you can buy at hobby stores.


ahh... i see.. i don't really know what are they called here.. is it similar to nickel wire?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakae48*
> 
> ahh... i see.. i don't really know what are they called here.. is it similar to nickel wire?


I don't know exactly what it is. It's spring steel wire. You can google it and find out.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> First of all, +rep for finding that info and sharing it here.
> 
> But don't think a square frame 140mm fan will fit in the middle slot. Most mb's sport heatsinks for their vrm's there. I had to tilt the 140mm standard fans to test them on an NH-D14. Round frames fit in there nicely. note: I had to change my original word choice to pass the website's autocensors.
> 
> Found an image of a 140mm square frame fan on a D14:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is how NF-A14 iPPC-3000RPM fans look when mounted on D15. Looks like cooler was made for them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From http://www.relaxedtech.com/reviews/noctua/nf-a14-industrialppc/5 review, but I would not pay any attention to their test results unless you have an identical system in Antec 900 case .. because they are not testing cooler against cooler, but how different cooler preform in a specific system .. theirs. Other testing I've seen and done shows high performance fans like NF-A14 iPPC-2000 and 3000 lower CPU temps by about 8-10c below what stock cooler fans do. But to do this in a case requires changing case fans to hi-performance fans so case can supply the cool airflow needed for hi-performance cooler fans to receive their needed cool air supply. If case fans do not supply needed cool air the cooler fans re-use their own heated exhaust air to make up the difference and we know that every degree warmer the air into cooler when CPU is under extreme load is a degree warmer the CPU is.
Click to expand...

That square frame would hunker down on a D14 as well. What lifts up the corner is the VRM heatsink you find on many motherboards. Try it and see. I go with round frames.


----------



## zaodrze244

I would like to join the club









I have NH-D14 with 2xNF-A15 PWM, NF-A14 PWM and 3xNF-A20 PWM


----------



## Skylinestar

I'm joining this club as an NH-U14S cooler user. I'm using the stock Noctua thermal paste. I'm not sure how much paste to be applied. Some said a grain of rice. Some said pea size. But I can assure that a pea is so much bigger than a grain of rice. Cooked and uncooked rice has different size. I go with the medium. HardwareAsylum uses the 5-dot-method.








One thing for sure... that brown fan is fugly.
GTA V in game temperature drops from avg 60°c to 44°c (room temp is 30°c). Will try AIDA64 cpu stress later.


Update: Run the standard AIDA64 and OCCT tests at stock cpu speed.




After 15 minutes of Prime95 (small FFTs) (just look at the max temp)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> I'm joining this club as an NH-U14S cooler user. I'm using the stock Noctua thermal paste. I'm not sure how much paste to be applied. Some said a grain of rice. Some said pea size. But I can assure that a pea is so much bigger than a grain of rice. Cooked and uncooked rice has different size. I go with the medium. HardwareAsylum uses the 5-dot-method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing for sure... that brown fan is fugly.
> GTA V in game temperature drops from avg 60°c to 44°c (room temp is 30°c). Will try AIDA64 cpu stress later.


Truely is fugly, but most of use can't see the fan when computer is in use, even if case has a window.

Amount of TIM to use argument is based on many users thinking they need a layer of TIM between CPU IHS and cooler base. That is not true. More TIM usually raises CPU temp because a TIM in a layer tranfers much less heat then if IHS and cooler base have metal to metal contact with TIM only filling voids where the to not match up (this is where lapping cooler base and IHS help) and TIM filling the voids in crystalline structure of metal.
Air has a heat transfer rate of 0.024 W/mK, TIM is 6.0-9.0 W/mK, copper is 400 W/mK.
That mean s while no TIM in a void between surfaces is 300 times worse than with TIM, a layer of TIM between surfaces is 53 times worse the metal to metal with TIM filling voids.

Here is link to how much TIM to use, different tests of on how to apply TIM, and tutorial showing where TIM should be in an installation.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22335323

Here are W/mK ratings of different things


----------



## Skylinestar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Here is link to how much TIM to use, different tests of on how to apply TIM, and tutorial showing where TIM should be in an installation.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22335323


Based on my temperature, do you think it looks ok?


----------



## NewType88

Rise of the dark owl ! **Blood curdling** hooooooot !! lol. Anyways, I'm OC on a 6700k 4.6ghz at 1.290v with 2 140mm iPPC fans up front and a 120mm at the caboose .

I've been wanting to see an iPPC 140mm on a u14s.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> Based on my temperature, do you think it looks ok?


Sorry, I can't look through the cooler to see what TIM print looks like. I lost my x-ray glasses.








But with temps as low as yours it must be at least an okay print.


----------



## Darkbreeze

Black versions of the non-industrial fan series. FINALLYYYYYYYYYY!

http://noctua.at/en/noctua-introduces-chromax-line-fans-cables-and-heatsink-covers


----------



## Tom Brohanks

Hello friends,

I have a Corsair C70 case which has 3 x 120mm fans. Two of which are front intake and one is exhaust. I also have an H100i which exhaust air through the radiator, but the fan specs on those look pretty stout despite being super loud.

These are the specs of the stock fans:
Quote:


> Air Flow - 44.1 CFM
> Noise Level - 23 dBA
> Operating Voltage - 12
> Max Current Draw - 0.12 A
> Static Pressure - 0.91 mm/H20
> Fan Speed - 1200 RPM


Would three Noctua NF S12A fans be good replacements? I'm mostly looking at quieter fans that can push the same or more air. The Noctua specs certainly look more capable and quieter at the same time.
Quote:


> Airflow 107,5 m³/h (63 CFM)
> Airflow with L.N.A. 83,2 m³/h
> Acoustical Noise 17,8 dB(A)
> Acoustical Noise with L.N.A. 10,7 dB(A)
> Static Pressure 1,19 mm H₂O
> Static Pressure with L.N.A. 0,73 mm H₂O


I'm also curious if I'd be better with the F12 series for intakes over the S12. Static pressure is preferred when you have filters/case/HD trays in front of and behind the fans, yes?


----------



## Darkbreeze

Yes, for radiators, heatsinks and front intake fans, higher static pressure is warranted/recommended, as long as the other characteristics of the fan, ie., noise etc., are within tolerances you can live with. Regardless, performance will always be better under demanding loads for those scenarios with higher static pressure fans.


----------



## KCDC

Hello fellow brown-and-tan users! Recently replaced all of my ML140s in favor of A14 PWMs x8. Happy to be back in Noctua land!

So, who's gonna be the first to try out their new Sterrox-based A-Series fans when they come out? Looks interesting, at least...


----------



## Skylinestar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> Black versions of the non-industrial fan series. FINALLYYYYYYYYYY!
> 
> http://noctua.at/en/noctua-introduces-chromax-line-fans-cables-and-heatsink-covers


While others have long joined the RGB bandwagon, Noctua just started with color pads? Hello, it's end of 2017.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> While others have long joined the RGB bandwagon, Noctua just started with color pads? Hello, it's end of 2017.


Nah, they released them much earlier than that. The Chromax grommets were released when the iPPC fans were out.

I got mine when I bought my iPPC fans around a year ago.


----------



## Darkbreeze

Yeah, the colored grommets aren't the news, the news is standard Noctua fans that aren't baby**** brown. That makes them attractive to a whole other group of enthusiasts who've shunned them simply based on their conflict with color schemes and an unwillingness to use the industrial fans due to their cost and noise factor.

As far as RGB goes, does anybody really even care about that? If you want colored LEDs there are a plethora of options for adding those. I personally think they are overkill and look crappy anyhow on fans aside from perhaps fans with a single color LED that's not glaringly obvious. There's a way to use LED that works, and way that just looks like that uncoordinated hot mess of christmas lights you see on that one house every year where they were obviously going for quantity with no concept of coordination or design.


----------



## Chaoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> As far as RGB goes, does anybody really even care about that? If you want colored LEDs there are a plethora of options for adding those. I personally think they are overkill and look crappy anyhow on fans aside from perhaps fans with a single color LED that's not glaringly obvious. There's a way to use LED that works, and way that just looks like that uncoordinated hot mess of christmas lights you see on that one house every year where they were obviously going for quantity with no concept of coordination or design.


True. Don't really like LED fans either.
That's why I got LEDstrips, so I can turn them off when I don't use them.
Love my Noctua iPPC's a lot.
You can't even see them in my build anyways, so no point.


----------



## Tom Brohanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> Yes, for radiators, heatsinks and front intake fans, higher static pressure is warranted/recommended, as long as the other characteristics of the fan, ie., noise etc., are within tolerances you can live with. Regardless, performance will always be better under demanding loads for those scenarios with higher static pressure fans.


Thanks! So, it looks like going with the F12 fans will be better in terms of static pressure but the sound will be the same as the C70 stock fans. Seems like S12 is still better in terms of both static pressure and acoustical noise over the stock Corsair fans. Looks like the S12 it is.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> Black versions of the non-industrial fan series. FINALLYYYYYYYYYY!
> 
> http://noctua.at/en/noctua-introduces-chromax-line-fans-cables-and-heatsink-covers


I have a reason to swap my NF-a14 pwm now (once prices drop a little)....









NF-A15 HS-PWM chromax.black.swap: EUR 26.90/USD 26.90 ---> this is 1500RPM instead of 1200RPM of the original NF-A15 , so it's an upgrade given the min speed is still 300rpm
NF-A14 PWM chromax.black.swap: EUR 24.90/USD 24.90

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A15-HS-PWM-chromax-black-swap-premium-grade/dp/B07654B9MR/
---> pricewatch https://camelcamelcamel.com/Noctua-NF-A15-HS-PWM-chromax-black-swap-premium-grade/product/B07654B9MR?active=sales_rank
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-black-swap-premium-grade/dp/B07655KF5C/
---> pricewatch https://camelcamelcamel.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-black-swap-premium-grade/product/B07655KF5C?active=sales_rank
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-S12A-PWM-chromax-black-swap-premium-grade/dp/B07657VBQQ/

Edit: it seems each pack comes with all 6 colors. That is a bit wasteful. I would have preferred an all black fan with black or white corners as a discounted option ($6 to $12 less) similar to redux series (currently runs about $15 each which is reasonable ; NF-A14 PWM runs ~ $20).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> While others have long joined the RGB bandwagon, Noctua just started with color pads? Hello, it's end of 2017.


Noctua is a performance company, which is why most of the lineup is for servers.

Anyhow, if you want RGB buy a RGB fan ring (Phanteks Halos) from Phanteks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Brohanks*
> 
> Thanks! So, it looks like going with the F12 fans will be better in terms of static pressure but the sound will be the same as the C70 stock fans. Seems like S12 is still better in terms of both static pressure and acoustical noise over the stock Corsair fans. Looks like the S12 it is.


Had the same stock fan as Corsair C70 in my 300R. (http://www.hardware.fr/articles/874-12/corsair-af120-corsair-sp120-a1225m12s-test.html)

Two of them died. First fan within a few months.

They're not loud, but they don't push that much air.


----------



## Darkbreeze

So yeah, as Alpha C mentioned, the NF-A15 PWM Chromax fans themselves are actually a performance upgrade over the original baby squirt brown models.

The NF-A15 fans are spec'd at 1200 RPM and 67.9 CFM with 1.51 mm H₂O static pressure. The new Chromax versions are 1500 RPM, and 82.5 CFM with 2.08 mm H₂O static pressure making them spec'd the same as the higher performing NF-A14 fans. Noise levels are on par with the NF-A14 fans now though which is actually a slight increase from the standard NF-A15 PWM fans.

Having used an NF-A14 PWM fan on my NH-U14S heatsink for some time now I can tell you that they have excellent performance characteristics and are still extremely quiet even at full steam so this tradeoff doesn't bother me a bit. With a single NF-A14 PWM on my NH-U14S I easily stay below 68°C at all stages of Prime95 v26.6 with my 6700k even though it's clocked at 4.6Ghz.

The NF-A14 PWM Chromax fans are spec'd exactly the same as the original NF-A14 fans however as are the NF-A12 PWM fans.


----------



## Skylinestar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> NF-A15 HS-PWM chromax.black.swap: EUR 26.90/USD 26.90 ---> this is 1500RPM instead of 1200RPM of the original NF-A15 , so it's an upgrade given the min speed is still 300rpm
> Anyhow, if you want RGB buy a RGB fan ring (Phanteks Halos) from Phanteks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> So yeah, as Alpha C mentioned, the NF-A15 PWM Chromax fans themselves are actually a performance upgrade over the original baby squirt brown models.
> 
> The NF-A15 fans are spec'd at 1200 RPM and 67.9 CFM with 1.51 mm H₂O static pressure. The new Chromax versions are 1500 RPM, and 82.5 CFM with 2.08 mm H₂O static pressure making them spec'd the same as the higher performing NF-A14 fans. Noise levels are on par with the NF-A14 fans now though which is actually a slight increase from the standard NF-A15 PWM fans.


http://noctua.at/en/nf-a15-hs-pwm-chromax-black-swap/specification

Besides color, is it the same fan as the A15 that comes with NH-U14S cpu cooler (rated at 1500rpm too)? Any performance tweak by Noctua?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Anyhow, if you want RGB buy a RGB fan ring (Phanteks Halos) from Phanteks.


Wouldn't fit on the A15 fan


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> http://noctua.at/en/nf-a15-hs-pwm-chromax-black-swap/specification
> 
> Besides color, is it the same fan as the A15 that comes with NH-U14S cpu cooler (rated at 1500rpm too)? Any performance tweak by Noctua?
> Wouldn't fit on the A15 fan


Looks the same...
http://noctua.at/en/nh-u14s/specification
Quote:


> Max. Rotational Speed (+/- 10%)
> 1500 RPM
> Max. Rotational Speed with L.N.A. (+/- 10%)
> 1200 RPM
> Min. Rotational Speed (PWM, +/-20%)
> 300 RPM
> *Max. Airflow*
> 140,2 m³/h
> Max. Airflow with L.N.A.
> 115,5 m³/h
> *Max. Acoustical Noise*
> 24,6 dB(A)
> Max. Acoustical Noise with L.N.A.
> 19,2 dB(A)
> Input Power
> 1,56 W
> Voltage Range
> 12 V
> MTTF
> > 150.000 h


& http://noctua.at/en/products/cpu-cooler-retail/nh-d15/specification
& http://noctua.at/en/products/cpu-cooler-retail/nh-d15s/specification
& http://noctua.at/en/products/cpu-cooler-retail/nh-u14s-tr4-sp3/specification

http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a15-hs-pwm-chromax-black-swap/specification
Quote:


> Rotational Speed (+/- 10%)
> 1500 RPM
> Min. Rotational Speed (PWM, +/-20%)
> 300 RPM
> *Airflow*
> 140,2 m³/h
> *Acoustical Noise*
> 24,6 dB(A)
> Static Pressure
> 2,08 mm H₂O
> Max. Input Power
> 1,56 W
> Max. Input Current
> 0,13 A
> Voltage
> 12 V
> MTTF
> > 150.000 h


NH-D15 fan @ coolingtechnique





1200rpm vs 1500rpm on NH-U14s


http://www.overclockers.com/noctua-nh-u14s-heatsink-review/





https://forum.donanimhaber.com/noctua-nh-u14s-nh-u12s-kullanici-incelemesi--81747909

Basically 7V 9V on the 1500RPM = 1200RPM (match the spec on http://noctua.at/en/nf-a15-pwm/specification)

This suggests 1,51 mm H₂O static pressure at 1200RPM vs 2,08 mm H₂O at 1500RPM.


----------



## Darkbreeze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> Besides color, is it the same fan as the A15 that comes with NH-U14S cpu cooler (rated at 1500rpm too)? Any performance tweak by Noctua?


Actually, after looking more closely, and I should have already known this but I've been away from things for about a year on a job that didn't really allow for internet access so I kind of got out of touch with the tech side of things for a while there, and forgot a good deal that I used to be in touch with on a daily basis, I realized that it does NOT have any performance advantages over the standard NF-A15 PWM. The 1200RPM spec given for the NF-A15 PWM is in consideration of using the low noise adapter. Without it, that fan too had the same specs as the NF-A14 PWM, so really the only difference is color.

For me, that's still enough to make it worthwhile though, because I've taken many NF-A14's and 15's, and colored them black using rattle can vinyl dye, and while they look good and still perform very well, you know there has to at least be SOME minimal performance differences due to the additional weight and drag on the fan blades from the surface layer of vinyl dye which is really just a specialized paint and we know paint diminishes fan performance to some degree in all cases.


----------



## NewType88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> So yeah, as Alpha C mentioned, the NF-A15 PWM Chromax fans themselves are actually a performance upgrade over the original baby squirt brown models.
> 
> The NF-A15 fans are spec'd at 1200 RPM and 67.9 CFM with 1.51 mm H₂O static pressure. The new Chromax versions are 1500 RPM, and 82.5 CFM with 2.08 mm H₂O static pressure making them spec'd the same as the higher performing NF-A14 fans. Noise levels are on par with the NF-A14 fans now though which is actually a slight increase from the standard NF-A15 PWM fans.
> 
> Having used an NF-A14 PWM fan on my NH-U14S heatsink for some time now I can tell you that they have excellent performance characteristics and are still extremely quiet even at full steam so this tradeoff doesn't bother me a bit. With a single NF-A14 PWM on my NH-U14S I easily stay below 68°C at all stages of Prime95 v26.6 with my 6700k even though it's clocked at 4.6Ghz.
> 
> The NF-A14 PWM Chromax fans are spec'd exactly the same as the original NF-A14 fans however as are the NF-A12 PWM fans.


5 degrees better than my u12s. What's your voltage set to ?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> Black versions of the non-industrial fan series. FINALLYYYYYYYYYY!
> 
> http://noctua.at/en/noctua-introduces-chromax-line-fans-cables-and-heatsink-covers


Interesting how the USA price is 20% higher than EU price.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> Actually, after looking more closely, and I should have already known this but I've been away from things for about a year on a job that didn't really allow for internet access so I kind of got out of touch with the tech side of things for a while there, and forgot a good deal that I used to be in touch with on a daily basis, I realized that it does NOT have any performance advantages over the standard NF-A15 PWM. The 1200RPM spec given for the NF-A15 PWM is in consideration of using the low noise adapter. Without it, that fan too had the same specs as the NF-A14 PWM, so really the only difference is color.
> 
> For me, that's still enough to make it worthwhile though, because I've taken many NF-A14's and 15's, and colored them black using rattle can vinyl dye, and while they look good and still perform very well, you know there has to at least be SOME minimal performance differences due to the additional weight and drag on the fan blades from the surface layer of vinyl dye which is really just a specialized paint and we know paint diminishes fan performance to some degree in all cases.


I'll only add that these NF-A15 1500rpm Chromax are the only 1500rpm NF-A15 you can buy. The NF-A15 1500 only comes on coolers. The retail model NF-A15 is 1200rpm .

It will be interesting to see how much extra Noctua charges for black versus original baby poo brown.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Interesting how the USA price is 20% higher than EU price.
> I'll only add that these NF-A15 1500rpm Chromax are the only 1500rpm NF-A15 you can buy. The NF-A15 1500 only comes on coolers. The retail model NF-A15 is 1200rpm .
> 
> It will be interesting to see how much extra Noctua charges for black versus original baby poo brown.


They're actually charging more or less the same (vs the older ones) once you account for how much the Chromax corners cost on their own. They replaced the fan splitter & LNA (fan speed reduction cable / resistor) with colored corners...

It's $ 24.90 for 140mm size and $ 22.90 for 120mm
http://noctua.at/en/products/overview-noctua-product-lines

Corners are $6.95 for 16 (NF-F12 / NF-S12A / NF-A14 corners) https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-SAVP1-Chromax-Anti-Vibration-Mount/dp/B018SOU3UG
http://www.performance-pcs.com/noctua-na-savp1-chromax-anti-vibration-pads-white.html#Specifications
Red is $4.45 https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-SAVP1-Chromax-Anti-Vibration-Mount/dp/B018SOU4PK/

My issue with it is I'm not going to be using any red , yellow , blue, or green ... so all those corners are useless. I doubt anyone is going to be able to sell off the unused corners either since it probably costs more to mail them than they are worth. I just need black or white corners. If I could get a dual pack of 140mm Chromax fans in all black for say $35 MSRP it would be better. Having a fan splitter and/or the silicone fan screws would add cost, but if they could be included it would be great. Noctua could call it *chromax.black* without the *chromax.black.swap* branding.

The bare minimum I could see the fan selling for is around $12-15 MSRP without accessories. Each set of 8 corners retails about $2-3 alone (which is exceedingly high since they ought to be ~$1 at best).


----------



## Darkbreeze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I'll only add that these NF-A15 1500rpm Chromax are the only 1500rpm NF-A15 you can buy. The NF-A15 1500 only comes on coolers. The retail model NF-A15 is 1200rpm .


You're right. Guess I was wrong again. That's strange that the non-HSF models are a lower rpm than the HSF versions. I stand corrected. I was under the impression that the 1200rpm spec given on it's spec sheet was assuming use of the L.N.A. It's not, at least not on the non-HSF models. It is however on the new model and the HSF model.
Quote:


> Low-Noise Adaptor
> The NF-A15 PWM is supplied with a (L.N.A.) that reduces the maximum fan speed from 1200 to 900rpm. The L.N.A. can be used either to run the fan at a fixed speed of 900rpm or to cap the maximum speed when using automatic PWM control.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> You're right. Guess I was wrong again. That's strange that the non-HSF models are a lower rpm than the HSF versions. I stand corrected. I was under the impression that the 1200rpm spec given on it's spec sheet was assuming use of the L.N.A. It's not, at least not on the non-HSF models. It is however on the new model and the HSF model.


I didn't think you were wrong. I was only trying to make it clear that NF-A15 are 1200rpm unless supplied on coolers. Is LNA 7v or is it 9v?


----------



## Darkbreeze

According to what I'm seeing, the LNA is is 9v and full speed is 12v, because at full voltage they are 1200rpm and with LNA they are 900rpm. I took no offense, in fact, I'm glad you pointed it out. I'd rather KNOW than "be right", especially being a mod over at Tom's, because we know that most visitors tend to lend more weight to what we say, whether that's a good idea or not is another question. Regardless, I appreciate it because that way I don't spread misinformation along to other folks. So hats off for pointing that out.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> According to what I'm seeing, the LNA is is 9v and full speed is 12v, because at full voltage they are 1200rpm and with LNA they are 900rpm. I took no offense, in fact, I'm glad you pointed it out. I'd rather KNOW than "be right", especially being a mod over at Tom's, because we know that most visitors tend to lend more weight to what we say, whether that's a good idea or not is another question. Regardless, I appreciate it because that way I don't spread misinformation along to other folks. So hats off for pointing that out.


You were not wrong. You simply did not point out that NF-A15 supplied with coolers is 1500rpm while normal NF-A15 accessary fan is 1200rpm while new NF-A15 Chromax is 1500rpm.

FYI, Noctua says LNA lowers NF-A15 1500rpm fan to 1200rpm. Another bit of trivia is they suggest if using a 3rd fan on NH-D15 or D14 to use 1200rpm and also use thicker spacers to increase space between pull fan and cooler fins. My understanding is the thicker spacer makes up for the difference in impeller to cooler spacing that the fan's motor mounting frame braces supply to spacing between impeller and cooler when being used in push mode thus giving similar spacing from cooler fins to fan in when mounted in pull mode. Look at any fan and you will see there is more space between impeller to back of fan (where motor frame braces are) compared to space from impeller to front of fan.


----------



## AlphaC

AFAIK :
LNA = 9V
ULNA = 7V


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> AFAIK :
> LNA = 9V
> ULNA = 7V


I think you are correct .. assuming 12 volt in.


----------



## Darkbreeze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> 5 degrees better than my u12s. What's your voltage set to ?


1.325v


----------



## cat1092

I like the Noctua fans (& coolers) as these are shipped, have several 120mm NF-F12 PWM & a couple of NF-A9 PWM fans on hand as spares, hard to beat all of the extras they throw in at no added cost, as well as packaged to EU standards.









There's been several times when a PWM splitter was needed & was found in an opened box of one fan or the other. These normally goes for $5 (& maybe up to $2 shipping) on Newegg & why purchasing Noctua is less expensive than many realizes. Even when I got the NH-D15 cooler (silent for it's size), the included thermal paste, although looked to be a small tube, was able to install no less than 6 CPU's with it, using the oat size method in center. Once the cooler is tightened down & PC fired up with a medium load (such as a long AV/AM scan), the paste will cure w/out the need of Prime95.









Maybe it's just me, or have became accustomed to the color scheme, regardless, I love the natural color of Noctua fans & I believe so does many others. While Noctua could had initially went with a more popular color (such as black), they chose to be unique & their products reflects dedication to quality. Keep the beige & brown coming!













And please don't suggest to substitute the current extras for fan covers that many will sell on eBay or give to friends. With trust in their products, Noctua has built a large following, if the color scheme was that bad, would had went belly up years ago.









If one doesn't like the Noctua color scheme, yet still wants the 6 year warranty which will likely be needed by most, purchase the lower cost & more flimsy Arctic fans instead. There's a size & fit for most everyone, although most will still be stuck with only one color......white & no extra components, not as much as a LNA cable included (better get an extender cable for every one purchased if far from the MB). I presume that's why Amazon can offer a 5 pack bundle of the 120, 92 & 80mm sized PWM fans for just a bit more than the price of a single NF-F12. Although note that there's a huge difference between their Fluid Dynamic Bearing & the Noctua SSO2 ones, what may be perfect today will be a PITA in a year or two of hard usage.









https://www.amazon.com/F12-PWM-PST-Value-pack/dp/B00NTUJTAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1508321460&sr=8-1&keywords=5+pack+of+Arctic+120mm+PWM+fans

Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder!









Cat


----------



## Darkbreeze

Everybody is entitled to their own opinion, and I'm sure yours reflects that of many other people. Nothing wrong with that or with your opinion.

People who care more about performance and characteristics will have opinions in accordance with your own, in most cases. However, there are a LOT of people out there that skip these products despite the high quality and performance simply due to the aesthetics. Since building for looks has become such a huge market these days that means there is a gigantic portion of the market that Noctua is not reaching, or was not anyhow, that can now be somewhat tapped to increase Noctua's bottom line.

I for one am very glad of this because for one thing, while I am an avid Noctua supporter I would prefer to not have to vinyl dye my fans black anymore as there can be no doubt that this at least minimally affects performance. For another, I would prefer Noctua remain relevant and in business. There are plenty of enthusiast hardware companies that used to be all the rage but are now defunct. I'd like to not see this ever happen to Noctua, so if they can offer both performance AND aesthetics, while keeping both product lines going, then I'm all for it.

If the traditional Noctua colors were to be retired, it would not hurt my feelings at all so long as the current offerings retained the same performance and quality, however, I don't see that happening anytime soon so I wouldn't worry myself about it too much if I were you.


----------



## KCDC

What's funny is I remember seeing the noctua cooler for the first time back in nehalem days and was like "that things friggin brown and out of place, I want it!"

didn't even think about its performance, then read more and realized it was a solid purchase for my xeons.

I think of it as a badge of quality. You know a noctua setup when you see it.


----------



## Skylinestar

Anyone here from Asia? I'm just wondering how long is the shipping time of the free AM4 mounting kit.


----------



## Darkbreeze

On what?


----------



## Skylinestar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> On what?


AM4 mounting kit. Normally, international shipping takes forever to reach my house. Not sure if the estimated time in Noctua is reliable.
Quote:


> Delivery may take up to 2 weeks depending on your destination.


http://noctua.at/en/nm-am4-uxs-mounting-kit-order-form


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> Anyone here from Asia? I'm just wondering how long is the shipping time of the free AM4 mounting kit.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> AM4 mounting kit. Normally, international shipping takes forever to reach my house. Not sure if the estimated time in Noctua is reliable.
> http://noctua.at/en/nm-am4-uxs-mounting-kit-order-form


"For Asia" is almost as bad as asking 'for Earth'








I'm in EU (UK) and normally get shipments for Asia (Taiwan) in 2-5 days, but if customs gets involved it can be 7-12 days .. and I'm 1-2 days from port of entry. People in USA get shipments from Taiwan in 5-10 days without customs involvement. .
There are many variables including customs, how far you are from port of entry, etc. Customs can be a few hours to several days.

Maybe Noctua support has an idea of how long it takes to your address.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> "For Asia" is almost as bad as asking 'for Earth'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in EU (UK) and normally get shipments for Asia (Taiwan) in 2-5 days, but if customs gets involved it can be 7-12 days .. and I'm 1-2 days from port of entry. People in USA get shipments from Taiwan in 5-10 days without customs involvement. .
> There are many variables including customs, how far you are from port of entry, etc. Customs can be a few hours to several days.
> 
> Maybe Noctua support has an idea of how long it takes to your address.


Alternately you could just by AM4 mount for local retailer.


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> AM4 mounting kit. Normally, international shipping takes forever to reach my house. Not sure if the estimated time in Noctua is reliable.
> http://noctua.at/en/nm-am4-uxs-mounting-kit-order-form


ask your local store for that kit. i got the kit from my local store

well, time to say goodbye to all of you.. i moved to AIO yesterday. not that great but i'm happy enough (i'm avoiding heavy tower)


----------



## Skylinestar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> "For Asia" is almost as bad as asking 'for Earth'


Malaysia. My eBay shipment from China normally takes 3 weeks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakae48*
> 
> ask your local store for that kit. i got the kit from my local store


I was being told by my local distributor to refer to Noctua directly.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> Malaysia. My eBay shipment from China normally takes 3 weeks.
> I was being told by my local distributor to refer to Noctua directly.


Might be worth letting Noctua know what kind of 'non-service' your local Noctua dealer is giving.


----------



## Skylinestar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Might be worth letting Noctua know what kind of 'non-service' your local Noctua dealer is giving.


Consumerism is pretty crappy in my country. There are worse story. For example, you bought a $1000 graphics card which has 3 year warranty. The card dies on the last month of warranty, which by that time, the market value of it has dropped significantly, probably worth $200. The distributor will replace your dead $1000 card with the latest generation card that's worth $200. Sad but that's the truth.


----------



## sakae48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> Malaysia. My eBay shipment from China normally takes 3 weeks.
> I was being told by my local distributor to refer to Noctua directly.


slap em hard. your local distributor should serve you well as a customer!


----------



## EarlZ

Im getting a U12S very soon, is this aircooler still good these days ?


----------



## Darkbreeze

Depends on what it's for. Is this for your Nexus system or something else?

What CPU? Overclocking? Case?

Overall, yeah, it's pretty good. The U14S is a bit better but obviously it's larger and that won't necessarily work for everybody.

If the U14S will work in your application it's only six bucks more and has about an 8-10°C performance difference on my [email protected]

Frostytech and Anandtech show them having a much closer margin with only about a 3°C difference, but in my personal testing the margin was consistently larger, and was more like 12°C difference when I put my NF-A14 PWM fan on the U14S.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Im getting a U12S very soon, is this aircooler still good these days ?


Generally the U12S is significantly higher priced then others in it's quality and performance group. As Darkbreeze said, NH-U14S is better .. I think much better. But it's better performance depends on how much heat the CPU under it is making. The more heat the more U14S performance will show. IF CPU is only making 130w of heat the difference will not be very noticable (0-2c), but if CPU is making 250w of heat the difference will be very noticable .. like 5-8c


----------



## Darkbreeze

Honestly, aside from aesthetics and of course brand loyalty, if either of those are relevant issues to you, you'd be just as well off to go buy a Gammaxx 400 and slap a NF-F12 or NF-F12 black Chromax fan on there. Normally the G 400 is only about 25 bucks or less and right now Newegg has ten bucks off of that so like 13.89 after rebate.

That heatsink offers pretty comparable performance to the U12S based on Tom's hardware and Frostytech testing.


----------



## shilka




----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> Depends on what it's for. Is this for your Nexus system or something else?
> 
> What CPU? Overclocking? Case?
> 
> Overall, yeah, it's pretty good. The U14S is a bit better but obviously it's larger and that won't necessarily work for everybody.
> 
> If the U14S will work in your application it's only six bucks more and has about an 8-10°C performance difference on my [email protected]
> 
> Frostytech and Anandtech show them having a much closer margin with only about a 3°C difference, but in my personal testing the margin was consistently larger, and was more like 12°C difference when I put my NF-A14 PWM fan on the U14S.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Im getting a U12S very soon, is this aircooler still good these days ?
> 
> 
> 
> Generally the U12S is significantly higher priced then others in it's quality and performance group. As Darkbreeze said, NH-U14S is better .. I think much better. But it's better performance depends on how much heat the CPU under it is making. The more heat the more U14S performance will show. IF CPU is only making 130w of heat the difference will not be very noticable (0-2c), but if CPU is making 250w of heat the difference will be very noticable .. like 5-8c
Click to expand...

It will be for my 4790K, Im not overclocking it anymore and just leaving it with auto enhanced CPU from the board which puts all 4 cores in 4.4Ghz @ 1.212v not sure if the U14S can fit on my system i think it will pose issues with the first pcie slot


----------



## Darkbreeze

Nope, I'm pretty sure it won't fit. The U12S or the Gammaxx 400 should though. So would the BeQuiet Pure Rock which is another excellent cooler.


----------



## Brafall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*


That white version looks so good. Might choose that over the R1 Ultimate when I build a new CoffeeLake rig later this year.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Generally the U12S is significantly higher priced then others in it's quality and performance group. As Darkbreeze said, NH-U14S is better .. I think much better. But it's better performance depends on how much heat the CPU under it is making. The more heat the more U14S performance will show. IF CPU is only making 130w of heat the difference will not be very noticable (0-2c), but if CPU is making 250w of heat the difference will be very noticable .. like 5-8c


The NF-F12 on the NH-U12S has vanes that aren't that amazing for acoustics.

About 4°C it should be

http://www.coolingtechnique.com/recensioni/air-cooling/dissipatori/1247-recensione-noctua-nh-u12s-e-nh-u14s.html?start=9


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Generally the U12S is significantly higher priced then others in it's quality and performance group. As Darkbreeze said, NH-U14S is better .. I think much better. But it's better performance depends on how much heat the CPU under it is making. The more heat the more U14S performance will show. IF CPU is only making 130w of heat the difference will not be very noticable (0-2c), but if CPU is making 250w of heat the difference will be very noticable .. like 5-8c
> 
> 
> 
> The NF-F12 on the NH-U12S has vanes that aren't that amazing for acoustics.
> 
> About 4°C it should be
> 
> http://www.coolingtechnique.com/recensioni/air-cooling/dissipatori/1247-recensione-noctua-nh-u12s-e-nh-u14s.html?start=9
Click to expand...

I still have 2x GT AP15 around, are they a good alternative to the stock fan?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> The NF-F12 on the NH-U12S has vanes that aren't that amazing for acoustics.
> 
> About 4°C it should be
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.coolingtechnique.com/recensioni/air-cooling/dissipatori/1247-recensione-noctua-nh-u12s-e-nh-u14s.html?start=9


Okay, you seem to want detailed data, TheLab testing do not have 250 watts, but have 232 watts heat being 5.5c and 289.9w is 7.0c heat ..345 watts is 8.3c and 117 watts is 3.7c. That is a lot closer to my '5-8c' then your 'shoyld be 4c' is.









Different cooler orientation makes less then 2c difference in temps.


NHU-12S review:
https://www.thelab.gr/reviews/heatsinks-coolers-watercooling-reviews/noctua-nh-u12s-se-am4-air-cooler-review-r655/

But it's a mute point because while NH-U14S should fit on G1.Sniper M5 with GPU is in middle PCIe x16 socket. But I don't think the U14S at 165mm tall will not fit in the 350 case which I think only has 160mm CPU clearance.

If you want the best cooling and lowest noise level the Thermalright Le Grand Macho is 159mm tall, 70mm center CPU toward PCIe (near side of closest x16 PCIe is 73mm from center CPU) and cools as quietly or quieter with as good or cooler temps as NH-D15.


----------



## EarlZ

Would the d15s fit on a corsair 350D on the gigabyte g1 sniper m5?


----------



## AlphaC

What is great about Noctua is they have compatibility lists.
http://noctua.at/en/products/cpu-cooler-retail/nh-d15s/comp

If it's the LGA1150 Gigabyte G1.Sniper M5 , it fits.

Corsair 350D lists maximum CPU cooler height 160mm so it fits. The NH-D15S is Height (with fan) 160 mm.


----------



## Darkbreeze

True, but that compatibility list only includes clearance compatibility for onboard components and RAM. I do not think they are indicating clearance between the cooler and first PCIe slot graphics cards which was one of the main concerns @Earlz had voiced earlier.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Would the d15s fit on a corsair 350D on the gigabyte g1 sniper m5?


G1.Sniper M5 (rev. 1.x) is 74mm center CPU to near side of PCIe socket. NH-D15S is 67mm from center CPU toward PCIe soockets so NHoD15S will fit on motherboard

If 350D doe shave160mm CPU clearance the NH-D15S wiht 160mm heights to top of heat pieps should just fit.


----------



## ehume

The NH-D15S was made for MB's that have graphics cards in the top slot. See my review in the other Overclockers for pics of how it is compatible.


----------



## Brafall

Please tell me that Noctua has released a Chromax version of the NH-D15 and isn't making customers buy the black fans separately.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brafall*
> 
> Please tell me that Noctua has released a Chromax version of the NH-D15 and isn't making customers buy the black fans separately.


You have to buy the black fans separately unfortunately

I have a second PC that could use some better fans so i think i will move the brown NF-A15 fans over in that PC and buy some black NF-A15 fans together with the black Chromax for the NH-D15


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> The NH-D15S was made for MB's that have graphics cards in the top slot. See my review in the other Overclockers for pics of how it is compatible.


Even then there are motherboards with top PCIe socket is too close form NH-D15S's fins only being 67mm from center CPU, especially if they are not mATX and ITX motherboards.


----------



## Darkbreeze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brafall*
> 
> Please tell me that Noctua has released a Chromax version of the NH-D15 and isn't making customers buy the black fans separately.


I've spoken directly with Noctua marketing and they've indicated to me that there are also no intentions, immediate OR long term, for the inclusion of any of the Chromax black fans on any current production heat sinks. Nor are there any planned HSF's that are scheduled to use them. As well, none of the other fan sizes made by Noctua are planned to have Chromax versions either so no 92 or 200mm black Chromax fans are in the works unless something changes.

And as far as that NH-D15S fitting that G1 Sniper board, again, just because it fits other boards with a graphics card in the first slot does not mean it's going to fit this board. The distance between the socket and first PCIe slot on the G1 Sniper is not the same as with most other boards. I'd have to see a full size card ON the board WITH the cooler installed before I'd agree it could be done. Not that it can't, but I guess I just haven't seen any evidence of anybody having used a full size card and that cooler on that board.


----------



## Brafall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You have to buy the black fans separately unfortunately
> 
> I have a second PC that could use some better fans so i think i will move the brown NF-A15 fans over in that PC and buy some black NF-A15 fans together with the black Chromax for the NH-D15


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> I've spoken directly with Noctua marketing and they've indicated to me that there are also no intentions, immediate OR long term, for the inclusion of any of the Chromax black fans on any current production heat sinks. Nor are there any planned HSF's that are scheduled to use them. As well, none of the other fan sizes made by Noctua are planned to have Chromax versions either so no 92 or 200mm black Chromax fans are in the works unless something changes.


That's too bad.

The amount of people that have a NH-D15 is limited and those willing to replace their NH-D15 fans is even more limited. I guess Noctua really only wants you to use these as case fans.

Oh well... R1 Ultimate it is then.


----------



## Darkbreeze

Strictly speaking to the financial side of things, I personally have found that buying a spray can of black vinyl dye, does a wonderful job. Mine look exactly like the Chromax edition fans, and the can of dye cost my like seven bucks. Enough to do probably fifteen fans if you don't go nuts, which you don't need to. Light even coats is the key.

Much cheaper than buying new fans OR a whole different cooler, if you already have a Noctua product anyhow. But it's certainly much easier, and probably affords a teenie tiny bit better performance as there has to be some amount of additional drag on the fan blades from the extra weight of the vinyl paint. Not enough though that you can notice and my NH-U14S is still pretty much dead silent except at very high speed. And then it's just REAL quiet.


----------



## AlphaC

Part of the reason to buy Noctua products is the warranty. If you pay the Noctua premium and spray them black, you might as well buy $17-28 Be Quiet Silent Wings 3.

https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=FAN-BL071 --- 140mm PWM high speed
https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=FAN-BL067 --- 140mm PWM

_15% OFF entire purchase (Up to $15) w/code: BUYBUYBUY (ends 11/21)_

There's also Newegg, selling them for around $21
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=9SIA3AR5KE4342 --- 140mm PWM high speed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Thank you all for the response, I have the option to get the D15S for $20.00 (usd) thouhg im wondering if it has a meaning full difference vs a u12S with 2x gentle typhoon ap15, which will be used on a 4790K st 1.212v


You would be able to run much lower fan speeds. Instead of 1800RPM, you could probably run 1100-1200RPM.


----------



## EarlZ

Thank you all for the response, I have the option to get the D15S for $20.00 more than the u12s (usd) thouhg im wondering if it has a meaning full difference vs a u12S with 2x gentle typhoon ap15, which will be used on a 4790K st 1.212v


----------



## Darkbreeze

Stock? No. It's not worth it over the U12S. Unless it's less expensive than the U12S would be for some reason OR in the event you might drop a really fat overclock on it at some point, or move to a higher core count, higher TDP processor like an 8/16 Ryzen or a 6/12 i7 AND be overclocking them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Part of the reason to buy Noctua products is the warranty. If you pay the Noctua premium and spray them black, you might as well buy $17-28 Be Quiet Silent Wings 3.
> 
> https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=FAN-BL071 --- 140mm PWM high speed
> https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=FAN-BL067 --- 140mm PWM
> 
> _15% OFF entire purchase (Up to $15) w/code: BUYBUYBUY (ends 11/21)_
> 
> There's also Newegg, selling them for around $21
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=9SIA3AR5KE4342 --- 140mm PWM high speed
> You would be able to run much lower fan speeds. Instead of 1800RPM, you could probably run 1100-1200RPM.


While warrantties give us a nice warm fuzzy feeling they are rarely used if product is good. I all the years I've been in this game I can only remember needing replacements 4 or 5 times, and those were monitor and HDD problems within first few months of ownership.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Thank you all for the response, I have the option to get the D15S for $20.00 (usd) thouhg im wondering if it has a meaning full difference vs a u12S with 2x gentle typhoon ap15, which will be used on a 4790K st 1.212v


Yes D15S for $20 is worth the the difference to me. The added cooling means less noise because less fan speed is needed. I only use a small cooler in my HTPC .. because it is a much lower TDP CPU in a much smaller case. Even my stock i7 6700K has a big cooler. and when working hard I can hear the fans moving needed air to keep it at 65-70c.







I could lower the temp to about 50c, but it would be much louder.


----------



## Darkbreeze

I agree. In probably 33 years of working on and with computers, I think as far as my own personal hardware (Excluding hardware I purchased for clients) I've had to warranty exactly two motherboards, one Antec power supply, one R9 280 and one GT 730 graphics cards, three hard drives, an NZXT Grid+ v2 and a set of G.skill 1600mhz DIMMs.

No fans at all, ever. Well, at least no QUALITY fans. I've thrown out a few cheap fans I never should have bought anyway within months of buying them, but none of the Noctua, Scythe, Yate Loon, Noiseblocker, Thermalright, Cryorig or Cougar fans I've bought have ever not lasted past the warranty period.

And their warranty DOES specifically state that painting the fans voids the warranty, so of course there are no questions as to whether it does or not, but I've dyed maybe 25 Noctua fans black and four more black with red blades, and none of them to date has had any issues after a minimum of two years, so as long as it's done right I don't think there are any major concerns in this regard.

Now, and not to knock anybody else and how they do things, but I know that Bill Owen over at MNPC Tech actually PAINTS fans on most his high end mods, and doesn't seem to have any complaints but I'd be leery of that because acrylic paints have a bit more weight to them than these vinyl dyes that once dry don't have much body to the coating. I'd thing that has to have some kind of affect on the startup capability of some of the really low voltage PWM fans or even possibly balance issues if you don't get a 100% even coating. Who knows though, he's been doing it a long time so perhaps not.

I know with the dye though I've not had a single problem.


----------



## zoarquenix

Hi guys, good day to you all.

New adopter of Noctua's products here and I can't wait for the NM-AM4 Mounting Kit to arrive so I can start building my first PC. I'm noob, yet excited for this haha.
Anyway, I need some advice and expert-opinion from you guys about the best configuration possible for the upcoming PC. The case I'm using is Corsair Carbide 400C, which got a room for five fans (two 140mm on front, two 140mm on top, and one 120mm on rear). The case itself provide me with each 120mm and 140mm Corsair fan. Then, up till now I've bought NH-D15S, one NF-A15 PWM, and two NF-A14ippc 2000RPM PWM version. Wallet is broken already so perhaps not possible to add more fans atm, but I plan to have full Noctua fans for the build in the future.

At first, I'm thinking of set it up like this :
- Two NF-A14ippc 2000RPM at the front as intake
- The NF-A15 as second fan with NH-D15S
- And for now, use the provided 120mm fan in rear and one 140mm fan at the top both as exhaust.

My question is :
- Do you think that setup is okay for few months until I purchase another fans? Or should I switch the NF-A15 to the top atm and let the NH-D15S have one fan first? For my usage, I probably just gonna overclock a bit. I'm so new to this.
- Or do you have any other better setup with all those mentioned fans?
- Which type of Noctua fans you'd recommend as my rear exhaust (120mm) and top exhaust (140mm)?
- Oh ya, so If I use two fans on NH-D15S, then I have connect those two headers to the Y-cable provided, and then connect it to CPU_FAN headers, correct?

To be honest I was looking for NF-A14 for front intake and top exhaust, and perhaps NF-F12 or NF-S12B redux as rear exhaust; BUT the availability in my country is ufhhh. Searched and asked everywhere, no one have any stock (at least for now). At some point I even thinking of using NF-A15 for all the 140mm case fitting hole. I thought "Ah, it was 140mm. Though it's rounded and probably more suitable for CPU Cooler, but meh, I bet it's okay and will perform great too; until I remember I have one NF-A15 (bundled with the NH-D15S) and tried any possible way to fit into my case xD. Well, bought it anyway for the future double fans setup. Getting the NF-A14ippc also because NF-A14 is not available right now in my country and I'm going to build the PC right away after all my parts arrived. Gonna be a christmas gift for myself xD.

Hope you guys can enlighten me on this.
All your opinions really matters to me. Thank you so much guys!


----------



## Jumie

try to read this first http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoarquenix*
> 
> Hi guys, good day to you all.
> 
> New adopter of Noctua's products here and I can't wait for the NM-AM4 Mounting Kit to arrive so I can start building my first PC. I'm noob, yet excited for this haha.
> Anyway, I need some advice and expert-opinion from you guys about the best configuration possible for the upcoming PC. The case I'm using is Corsair Carbide 400C, which got a room for five fans (two 140mm on front, two 140mm on top, and one 120mm on rear). The case itself provide me with each 120mm and 140mm Corsair fan. Then, up till now I've bought NH-D15S, one NF-A15 PWM, and two NF-A14ippc 2000RPM PWM version. Wallet is broken already so perhaps not possible to add more fans atm, but I plan to have full Noctua fans for the build in the future.
> 
> At first, I'm thinking of set it up like this :
> - Two NF-A14ippc 2000RPM at the front as intake
> - The NF-A15 as second fan with NH-D15S
> - And for now, use the provided 120mm fan in rear and one 140mm fan at the top both as exhaust.
> 
> My question is :
> - Do you think that setup is okay for few months until I purchase another fans? Or should I switch the NF-A15 to the top atm and let the NH-D15S have one fan first? For my usage, I probably just gonna overclock a bit. I'm so new to this.
> - Or do you have any other better setup with all those mentioned fans?
> - Which type of Noctua fans you'd recommend as my rear exhaust (120mm) and top exhaust (140mm)?
> - Oh ya, so If I use two fans on NH-D15S, then I have connect those two headers to the Y-cable provided, and then connect it to CPU_FAN headers, correct?
> 
> To be honest I was looking for NF-A14 for front intake and top exhaust, and perhaps NF-F12 or NF-S12B redux as rear exhaust; BUT the availability in my country is ufhhh. Searched and asked everywhere, no one have any stock (at least for now). At some point I even thinking of using NF-A15 for all the 140mm case fitting hole. I thought "Ah, it was 140mm. Though it's rounded and probably more suitable for CPU Cooler, but meh, I bet it's okay and will perform great too; until I remember I have one NF-A15 (bundled with the NH-D15S) and tried any possible way to fit into my case xD. Well, bought it anyway for the future double fans setup. Getting the NF-A14ippc also because NF-A14 is not available right now in my country and I'm going to build the PC right away after all my parts arrived. Gonna be a christmas gift for myself xD.
> 
> Hope you guys can enlighten me on this.
> All your opinions really matters to me. Thank you so much guys!


I think you will discover that the NF-A14 iPPC2000rpm is TOO LOUD. I have those fans. They are nice. But they are loud.

I use two A14 ULN's for my intake.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoarquenix*
> 
> Hi guys, good day to you all.
> 
> New adopter of Noctua's products here and I can't wait for the NM-AM4 Mounting Kit to arrive so I can start building my first PC. I'm noob, yet excited for this haha.
> Anyway, I need some advice and expert-opinion from you guys about the best configuration possible for the upcoming PC. The case I'm using is Corsair Carbide 400C, which got a room for five fans (two 140mm on front, two 140mm on top, and one 120mm on rear). The case itself provide me with each 120mm and 140mm Corsair fan. Then, up till now I've bought NH-D15S, one NF-A15 PWM, and two NF-A14ippc 2000RPM PWM version. Wallet is broken already so perhaps not possible to add more fans atm, but I plan to have full Noctua fans for the build in the future.
> 
> At first, I'm thinking of set it up like this :
> - Two NF-A14ippc 2000RPM at the front as intake
> - The NF-A15 as second fan with NH-D15S
> - And for now, use the provided 120mm fan in rear and one 140mm fan at the top both as exhaust.
> 
> My question is :
> - Do you think that setup is okay for few months until I purchase another fans? Or should I switch the NF-A15 to the top atm and let the NH-D15S have one fan first? For my usage, I probably just gonna overclock a bit. I'm so new to this.
> - Or do you have any other better setup with all those mentioned fans?
> - Which type of Noctua fans you'd recommend as my rear exhaust (120mm) and top exhaust (140mm)?
> - Oh ya, so If I use two fans on NH-D15S, then I have connect those two headers to the Y-cable provided, and then connect it to CPU_FAN headers, correct?
> 
> To be honest I was looking for NF-A14 for front intake and top exhaust, and perhaps NF-F12 or NF-S12B redux as rear exhaust; BUT the availability in my country is ufhhh. Searched and asked everywhere, no one have any stock (at least for now). At some point I even thinking of using NF-A15 for all the 140mm case fitting hole. I thought "Ah, it was 140mm. Though it's rounded and probably more suitable for CPU Cooler, but meh, I bet it's okay and will perform great too; until I remember I have one NF-A15 (bundled with the NH-D15S) and tried any possible way to fit into my case xD. Well, bought it anyway for the future double fans setup. Getting the NF-A14ippc also because NF-A14 is not available right now in my country and I'm going to build the PC right away after all my parts arrived. Gonna be a christmas gift for myself xD.
> 
> Hope you guys can enlighten me on this.
> All your opinions really matters to me. Thank you so much guys!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jumie*
> 
> try to read this first http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data


Actually the 5th post in thread is about case airflow and how to set it up.


----------



## zoarquenix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jumie*
> 
> try to read this first http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Actually the 5th post in thread is about case airflow and how to set it up.


Thank you Jumie and Doyll for the reference! I'll definitely read that out!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> I think you will discover that the NF-A14 iPPC2000rpm is TOO LOUD. I have those fans. They are nice. But they are loud.
> 
> I use two A14 ULN's for my intake.


From all the review said, yes. But I'll see how it turn out after the build has finished. I hope I can endure it, since I'm not on a quiet environment too.
I was going for the non industrial one at first, but it's not available on my country, and the availability of other good fans especially from the local dealer is so so limited. So many "cheap-gaming-peripherals" here :\


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoarquenix*
> 
> Thank you Jumie and Doyll for the reference! I'll definitely read that out!
> From all the review said, yes. But I'll see how it turn out after the build has finished. I hope I can endure it, since I'm not on a quiet environment too.
> I was going for the non industrial one at first, but it's not available on my country, and the availability of other good fans especially from the local dealer is so so limited. So many "cheap-gaming-peripherals" here :\


@MicroCat really likes the NF-A14 IndustrialPPC-24V-3000-IP67 PWM running on 12v. They might be a good option for you. As this is Noctua thread i won't suggest other brands.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @MicroCat really likes the NF-A14 IndustrialPPC-24V-3000-IP67 PWM running on 12v. They might be a good option for you. As this is Noctua thread i won't suggest other brands.


Yes, I do. I'm not hearing them right now on my D14. Spinning at 600rpm atm while multi-tasking. Not hearing anything but the simmering self-control of @doyll


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoarquenix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jumie*
> 
> try to read this first http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Actually the 5th post in thread is about case airflow and how to set it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you Jumie and Doyll for the reference! I'll definitely read that out!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> I think you will discover that the NF-A14 iPPC2000rpm is TOO LOUD. I have those fans. They are nice. But they are loud.
> 
> I use two A14 ULN's for my intake.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> From all the review said, yes. But I'll see how it turn out after the build has finished. I hope I can endure it, since I'm not on a quiet environment too.
> I was going for the non industrial one at first, but it's not available on my country, and the availability of other good fans especially from the local dealer is so so limited. So many "cheap-gaming-peripherals" here :\
Click to expand...

Since you are not in a quiet environment could I suggest a Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-24V-3000? When you use 12V, they run about 1800rpm. I did a review titled "Noctua 24-Volt Fans and Chromax Review" on the other Overclockers 2y ago this month.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Since you are not in a quiet environment could I suggest a Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-24V-3000? When you use 12V, they run about 1800rpm. I did a review titled "Noctua 24-Volt Fans and Chromax Review" on the other Overclockers 2y ago this month.


TWO years already? Feels like 6 months ago. It was because of this review that I purchased a few of the Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-24V-3000. That and I'm a cheapskate - at the time the 24V models were 24% cheaper than the 12V industrial models. Even a little cheaper than the Chocolate 'n Cream A14s.

They have been working silently and efficiently on a D14S for almost 2 years. A single NF-A14 iPPC-24V-3000 was more than adequate for CPU cooling, but added another on the rear of the 2nd tower to act as exhaust fan for the case - since I had 'ehumed-out' the exhaust fan grille. This combo keeps the CPU & GPU running cool and quiet.

Because @ehume is not a direct-linking self-promoter, here's the link to the review: http://www.overclockers.com/noctua-24-volt-fans-and-chromax-review/

And in case I didn't two years ago, thank you, ehume, for your great reviews.


----------



## Darkbreeze

I must have missed that review before. That's pretty impressive. I might have to invest in about 150 bucks worth of new fans in the near future.


----------



## EarlZ

After maybe a full year of procrastination on cleaning (full disassembly) my Swiftech H220X, Ive finally decided to do so, I already have the U12S with 2X Scythe Gentle Typhoon fans (the same fans I've been using on the H220X) and now I am wondering if the U12S with the dual fan is gonna be better/worse than the Swiftech H220X, I didnt note down any temperature measurements before I switched to the H220X, maybe anyone has had experience in comparing them ?


----------



## zoarquenix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @MicroCat really likes the NF-A14 IndustrialPPC-24V-3000-IP67 PWM running on 12v. They might be a good option for you. As this is Noctua thread i won't suggest other brands.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume*
> 
> Since you are not in a quiet environment could I suggest a Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-24V-3000? When you use 12V, they run about 1800rpm. I did a review titled "Noctua 24-Volt Fans and Chromax Review" on the other Overclockers 2y ago this month.


Thank you doyll and ehume for giving me another advices and opinion on this.
I bought the NF-A14 iPPC 2000 version already and I chose that because I was hoping it could be less noisy due to its less RPM and power consumption. So far I'm not annoyed by the fan sound. It's good.
Now the only thing missing is the top fan, since NH-D15S is so big I now have problem fitting another fan on top of the case and lack of Y-cable. Should've bought a bigger case xD.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> After maybe a full year of procrastination on cleaning (full disassembly) my Swiftech H220X, Ive finally decided to do so, I already have the U12S with 2X Scythe Gentle Typhoon fans (the same fans I've been using on the H220X) and now I am wondering if the U12S with the dual fan is gonna be better/worse than the Swiftech H220X, I didnt note down any temperature measurements before I switched to the H220X, maybe anyone has had experience in comparing them ?


I hope you are not serious. U12DS's cooling ability is not even close to that of H220 X , doesn't matter what fans you put on it, it's 4x 6mm heatpipes cannot come close to transferring as much heat to finpack, and finpack has a fraction the heat transfer area to airflow as H220X.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoarquenix*
> 
> Thank you doyll and ehume for giving me another advices and opinion on this.
> I bought the NF-A14 iPPC 2000 version already and I chose that because I was hoping it could be less noisy due to its less RPM and power consumption. So far I'm not annoyed by the fan sound. It's good.
> Now the only thing missing is the top fan, since NH-D15S is so big I now have problem fitting another fan on top of the case and lack of Y-cable. Should've bought a bigger case xD.


No problem.








What case do you have?


----------



## Skylinestar

After waiting for more than 2 months, I think the AM2 bracket (requested free from Noctua) has gone missing. Sigh. Expected this to happen as there is no courier tracking.


----------



## zoarquenix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I hope you are not serious. U12DS's cooling ability is not even close to that of H220 X , doesn't matter what fans you put on it, it's 4x 6mm heatpipes cannot come close to transferring as much heat to finpack, and finpack has a fraction the heat transfer area to airflow as H220X.
> No problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What case do you have?


I got Corsair Carbide 400C atm.
At first I wanted NZXT S340 Elite, but it's not available on my place, so my friend recommend me this.
I believe he doesnt know that I'm going for NH-D15S. lol xD


----------



## zoarquenix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> After waiting for more than 2 months, I think the AM2 bracket (requested free from Noctua) has gone missing. Sigh. Expected this to happen as there is no courier tracking.


Is there any chance you buy it from your local dealer? Or perhaps another shop or dealer who also sell Noctua's product.

I also bought it from around my country, which can be shipped and arrived in about 5 days because I needed it fast. And it cost like around 7-9 bucks only.


----------



## NewType88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> After waiting for more than 2 months, I think the AM2 bracket (requested free from Noctua) has gone missing. Sigh. Expected this to happen as there is no courier tracking.


Aw man, that's a bummer







I requested the brackets to mount the NF-A14 fans, just to have them and they showed up in like 2 or 3 weeks.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> After maybe a full year of procrastination on cleaning (full disassembly) my Swiftech H220X, Ive finally decided to do so, I already have the U12S with 2X Scythe Gentle Typhoon fans (the same fans I've been using on the H220X) and now I am wondering if the U12S with the dual fan is gonna be better/worse than the Swiftech H220X, I didnt note down any temperature measurements before I switched to the H220X, maybe anyone has had experience in comparing them ?
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you are not serious. U12DS's cooling ability is not even close to that of H220 X , doesn't matter what fans you put on it, it's 4x 6mm heatpipes cannot come close to transferring as much heat to finpack, and finpack has a fraction the heat transfer area to airflow as H220X.
Click to expand...

Decided to install the H220X again, Im getting a temperature difference of 1-2c but in favor of the U12S, I'll try to remount.


----------



## Darkbreeze

If the U12S, which IS a pretty capable cooler for a 120mm unit but should in no way be capable of lower temps than the H220X, is giving you better temps then there is either something wrong in the configuration of your setup or you have a weak or faulty pump.

Or, of course, a bad mount. I'd make sure you've used the correct standoffs and backing plate. There should be different ones depending on what socket type you use and whether it is an AMD or Intel platform. I've seen similar issues with a number of users that have either used the wrong backing plate or the wrong standoff hardware and therefore could not get a mount with the correct pressure.

It could also be due to the configuration of your radiator setup. Where is your radiator mounted? What side of the radiator are your fans mounted on? What configuration are the fans in, intake, exhaust, etc?

What does the rest of your case fan configuration look like? These are all factors that could be affecting you getting poor results from your H220X.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> If the U12S, which IS a pretty capable cooler for a 120mm unit but should in no way be capable of lower temps than the H220X, is giving you better temps then there is either something wrong in the configuration of your setup or you have a weak or faulty pump.
> 
> Or, of course, a bad mount. I'd make sure you've used the correct standoffs and backing plate. There should be different ones depending on what socket type you use and whether it is an AMD or Intel platform. I've seen similar issues with a number of users that have either used the wrong backing plate or the wrong standoff hardware and therefore could not get a mount with the correct pressure.
> 
> It could also be due to the configuration of your radiator setup. Where is your radiator mounted? What side of the radiator are your fans mounted on? What configuration are the fans in, intake, exhaust, etc?
> 
> What does the rest of your case fan configuration look like? These are all factors that could be affecting you getting poor results from your H220X.


Pump is reporting 2934-3026RPM which is what it is specified for, I am using the intel backplate and the intel stand offs come pre-installed, my radiator is mounted at the top of my Corsair 350D the fans can only be placed on one side which is the top area and this is via a pull config. I also have 2x intake fans (same GT-AP15) with the 350D high airflow face plate, I also have 1 fan exhausting air at the back. I'll re-mount in a bit.

EDIT: I'll first try an open side panel with a house fan blowing air to remove any air flow related issues.


----------



## Darkbreeze

You don't need the side fan. Just taking the side panel off should tell you all you need to know as far as whether air supply is the issue.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> You don't need the side fan. Just taking the side panel off should tell you all you need to know as far as whether air supply is the issue.


This is how my setup looks like;


2degree drop with the side panel off no house fan used.

Spread appears to be good


----------



## EarlZ

Remounted and getting the same temps, I guess I am keeping the U12S after all


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Pump is reporting 2934-3026RPM which is what it is specified for, I am using the intel backplate and the intel stand offs come pre-installed, my radiator is mounted at the top of my Corsair 350D the fans can only be placed on one side which is the top area and this is via a pull config. I also have 2x intake fans (same GT-AP15) with the 350D high airflow face plate, I also have 1 fan exhausting air at the back. I'll re-mount in a bit.
> 
> EDIT: I'll first try an open side panel with a house fan blowing air to remove any air flow related issues.


Are the fans on radiator running?
Honestly, as good a little cooler as U12S ism it is about half the cooling ability of H220 X.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Pump is reporting 2934-3026RPM which is what it is specified for, I am using the intel backplate and the intel stand offs come pre-installed, my radiator is mounted at the top of my Corsair 350D the fans can only be placed on one side which is the top area and this is via a pull config. I also have 2x intake fans (same GT-AP15) with the 350D high airflow face plate, I also have 1 fan exhausting air at the back. I'll re-mount in a bit.
> 
> EDIT: I'll first try an open side panel with a house fan blowing air to remove any air flow related issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Are the fans on radiator running?
> Honestly, as good a little cooler as U12S ism it is about half the cooling ability of H220 X.
Click to expand...

Yes they are, at full speed


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Yes they are, at full speed


Then there must be something wrong with the H220 X. Maybe a vapor lock of air in pump or even a bad pump, but something isn't working like it should. Is one hose warmer than the other to the touch? Does entire length of warmer hose feel the same temp?


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Yes they are, at full speed
> 
> 
> 
> Then there must be something wrong with the H220 X. Maybe a vapor lock of air in pump or even a bad pump, but something isn't working like it should. Is one hose warmer than the other to the touch? Does entire length of warmer hose feel the same temp?
Click to expand...

Feels like both tubes are warm about the same temp, yeah I think something is wrong or has gone wrong with my H220X or the U12S is just that good? the pump has no watery noise, its all motor noise and silent so I doubt there is any trapped air.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Feels like both tubes are warm about the same temp, yeah I think something is wrong or has gone wrong with my H220X or the U12S is just that good? the pump has no watery noise, its all motor noise and silent so I doubt there is any trapped air.


CPU stock U12S will cool just fine with little or no difference to H220 X. But NH-U12S is defintiely not as capable a cooler as H220 X if both are working properly.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> Feels like both tubes are warm about the same temp, yeah I think something is wrong or has gone wrong with my H220X or the U12S is just that good? the pump has no watery noise, its all motor noise and silent so I doubt there is any trapped air.
> 
> 
> 
> CPU stock U12S will cool just fine with little or no difference to H220 X. But NH-U12S is defintiely not as capable a cooler as H220 X if both are working properly.
Click to expand...

its on a 4790K @ 1.285v @ 4.6Ghz so its not totally stock.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> its on a 4790K @ 1.285v @ 4.6Ghz so its not totally stock.


Still, H220 X should cooler at lower fan speed than NH-U12S.


----------



## EarlZ

It could also be possible that the heat transfer to my IHS from the CPU die is so bad that no matter how good the cooler the benefits are not seen past a certain temp range, perhaps?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> It could also be possible that the heat transfer to my IHS from the CPU die is so bad that no matter how good the cooler the benefits are not seen past a certain temp range, perhaps?


If it was a die to IHS heat transfer issue the U12S would not give 1-2c lower temp as was first reported.


----------



## ThrashZone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> This is how my setup looks like;
> 
> 
> 2degree drop with the side panel off no house fan used
> 
> Spread appears to be good


Hi,
Although it's spread looks okay the veins are pretty bad
What are you using and how are you applying it ?
NT-H1 is about the most consistent paste I've used with just a pea size in the middle


----------



## Darkbreeze

Personally, I don't think the spread IS good. It certainly looks to me like the TIM was either not centered when applied or there is not equal pressure on all sides. One corner should not be covered while three are dry. I realize that the "corners" are not where you need the TIM but since there IS thermal paste in one corner and not on the other three plus pretty clearly not an even spread, I'd say theres an issue. Perhaps the mounting hardware or cold plate are hitting something on the motherboard on that side.

Something is up because there is no possible way, EVER, that if your radiator fans are running at full speed and your pump is running at full speed, your U12S could cool better. If it was a U14S, I might not be as hesitant to disbelieve because I've seen the U14S have as good of performance as the D14 and D15 on a few tests but all testing has shown the U12S to be considerably lower than that and well below the known capabilities of any GOOD 220/240mm water cooler.

Do you feel any "hum" type vibration when you put a finger on the pump housing? In a few rare instances, with both water cooling pumps and other type pumps such as those used for outdoor decorative ponds etc., I've seen instances where the center shaft on the motor had broken free from the pump vanes/fins and while the motor would turn, reporting a correct or even slightly higher RPM because it WAS actually turning, it was not turning the physical parts that cause movement of the liquid.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Mostly I believe the paste it's self is bad
No way all those cracks should be there it seems it's nearly all dried up.


----------



## MooMoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Mostly I believe the paste it's self is bad
> No way all those cracks should be there it seems it's nearly all dried up.


I think dried up stuff doesn't make veins like that.

This agrees with it https://www.ekwb.com/blog/thermal-compound-guide/


----------



## Darkbreeze

Nothing in what I see leads me to believe there is anything wrong with the paste. Those veins are a result of the properties of the paste AND mostly, from removal of the device. I GUARANTEE it didn't look like that or have those veins when it was installed. I can show you hundreds of other paste jobs with similar veining after cooler removal and none of them were due to dried paste. Not to mention, he JUST applied it so there's zero chance it could have dried out in a matter of hours or a single day.


----------



## janice1234

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I hope you are not serious. U12DS's cooling ability is not even close to that of H220 X , doesn't matter what fans you put on it, it's *4x 6mm heatpipe*s cannot come close to transferring as much heat to finpack, and finpack has a fraction the heat transfer area to airflow as H220X.
> No problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What case do you have?


wrong, u12s come with 5 x 6mm heatpipe.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *janice1234*
> 
> wrong, u12s come with 5 x 6mm heatpipe.


You are correct, NH-U12S does indeed have 5x 6mm heatpipes. I think it is the only cooler of this style that is 5 pipes instead of . Good catch!


----------



## Darkbreeze

Yes. 5 x6mm. This and the performance of the fan it comes with are the two main reasons why it outperforms basically every other standard thickness single stack 120mm cooler from the last few years. There might be one or two released in the last year, for newer platforms, that improve on it's performance, but they'd be few and far between. Still, as great as it is, it's still limited by design.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Although it's spread looks okay the veins are pretty bad
> What are you using and how are you applying it ?
> NT-H1 is about the most consistent paste I've used with just a pea size in the middle


I've always though that the veins are formed when pulling the heatsink, cause when I pull it be wiggling it side ways they dont appear.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> Personally, I don't think the spread IS good. It certainly looks to me like the TIM was either not centered when applied or there is not equal pressure on all sides. One corner should not be covered while three are dry. I realize that the "corners" are not where you need the TIM but since there IS thermal paste in one corner and not on the other three plus pretty clearly not an even spread, I'd say theres an issue. Perhaps the mounting hardware or cold plate are hitting something on the motherboard on that side.
> 
> Something is up because there is no possible way, EVER, that if your radiator fans are running at full speed and your pump is running at full speed, your U12S could cool better. If it was a U14S, I might not be as hesitant to disbelieve because I've seen the U14S have as good of performance as the D14 and D15 on a few tests but all testing has shown the U12S to be considerably lower than that and well below the known capabilities of any GOOD 220/240mm water cooler.
> 
> Do you feel any "hum" type vibration when you put a finger on the pump housing? In a few rare instances, with both water cooling pumps and other type pumps such as those used for outdoor decorative ponds etc., I've seen instances where the center shaft on the motor had broken free from the pump vanes/fins and while the motor would turn, reporting a correct or even slightly higher RPM because it WAS actually turning, it was not turning the physical parts that cause movement of the liquid.


Possibly I was not able to put the TIM dead center and I may have tighten 1 side slightly sooner during the criss cross patern as I am doing about 2 turns before moving to the next. Nothing is hitting the mounting hardware or cold plate during installation as the socket area on my board where the block takes up space is very clean. I've actually done a total of 3 re-mounts and consistently getting the same max temp of 83c (highest core) from core 0 to 3 its always consistent that core 3 gets the lowest temps (7c lower) while core 2 is the highest with core 0 & 1 being always equal.

The pump is moving water and has a stopper on its housing along with a ceramic washer to prevent it from breaking free or even moving up from the shaft.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThrashZone*
> 
> Hi,
> Mostly I believe the paste it's self is bad
> No way all those cracks should be there it seems it's nearly all dried up.


Its a fresh install and not dry, I've always seen those veins after pulling a heatsink install and to me they are pretty normal.


----------



## EarlZ

I currently have the U12S installed and double checked the temperature I got and they are the same ones I have recorded, I have the H220X running outside of the case at full pump speed will probably continue to do so for a few days just to be sure there are no trapped bubbles in the water block though Im fairly certain that there should be no air packets.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> I've always though that the veins are formed when pulling the heatsink, cause when I pull it be wiggling it side ways they dont appear.


They are formed when pulling the heatsink off.


----------



## czin125

https://i.imgur.com/M6RKbdz.jpg

The new 120mm/140mm in January 2018


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *czin125*
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/M6RKbdz.jpg
> 
> The new 120mm/140mm in January 2018



http://www.pcgamer.com/noctua-spent-four-and-a-half-years-designing-its-quietest-strongest-fan-yet/

Eagerly await the 120mm fans. Maybe they will be a substantial improvement over the NF-F12s which aren't downright amazing compared to the other fans that have come out.

40m3/h is just under 25CFM, 60 m3/h is about 35CFM ; 80 m3/h is about 45 CFM

----

There's also a NH-U12S successor with 6 heatpipes which would likely use the 120mm fan

https://noctua.at/en/noctua-at-computex-2017

I'm not sure how they claim 50% more fin area though. The NH-U12S had 50 fins IIRC


----------



## AshBorer

Is it just me or are there 7 heat pipes in that pic, not 6?


----------



## AlphaC

You're right there's 7 heatpipes in that picture...


----------



## Bing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> 
> http://www.pcgamer.com/noctua-spent-four-and-a-half-years-designing-its-quietest-strongest-fan-yet/
> 
> Eagerly await the 120mm fans. Maybe they will be a substantial improvement over the NF-F12s which aren't downright amazing compared to the other fans that have come out.
> 
> 40m3/h is just under 25CFM, 60 m3/h is about 35CFM ; 80 m3/h is about 45 CFMC


Interesting new product !

Looks like the impeller design resembles the Nidec Gentle Typhoon (GT) isn't it ?
But Noctua's has sharper tip and from the photo, I guess the blade "length" is abit shorter (from the centre hub to the tip of the blade compared to GT.

The gap between the blades and the fan housing/frame is at 0.5 mm is a bold claim, as GT last time I measured is about 1 mm, not very accuracte though, but I'm pretty sure its close to 1mm.

If this claim is true, it has to be designed and manufactured with higher precision molding as the current Noctua's frame housing material feels like cheap plastic, compared to 1st tier fan's frame's plastic like from Sanyo Denki, Papst or Nidec.

Also interested on the Sterrox material, eagerly want to see if it's comparable to Nidec's GT fan, as the GT impeller/blades plastic is really stiff and hard.

Time will tell, the proof of the pudding is in the eating.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AshBorer*
> 
> Is it just me or are there 7 heat pipes in that pic, not 6?


Quote:


> Indeed, it has 7 heatpipes, and says so in the news release.
> .... Last but not least, Noctua exhibited prototypes of future 12cm and 14cm single tower coolers, each using 7 heatpipes and having a further increased surface area as compared to the current NH-U12S and NH-U14S. Whereas the 12cm model is scheduled for the first half of 2018, the 14cm model will not be available before the second half of 2018 due to the fact that the fan is still in prototype stage.


----------



## 8051

While I'm impressed w/the Noctua 140mm NF-A14 IndustrialPPC-3000 fans I have, why doesn't noctua make any 38mm or thicker fans?

If this new material Noctua is using is so magical and allows for such tight clearances I find it hard to believe industrial fan manufacturers like Sunon, Delta, Sanace or Papst aren't using it. These three companies have been producing fans on a massive scale for decades.


----------



## 8051

While I'm impressed w/the Noctua 140mm NF-A14 IndustrialPPC-3000 fans I have, why doesn't noctua make any 38mm or thicker fans?

If this new material Noctua is using is so magical and allows for such tight clearances I find it hard to believe industrial fan manufacturers like Sunon, Delta, Sanace or Papst aren't using it. These three companies have been producing fans on a massive scale for decades.


----------



## SimonOcean

Well... the Sterrox is STILL!not being sold yet. LOL


----------



## KCDC

My NerdSense tells me they ain't gonna be cheap!

...But I want them....


----------



## specialedge

Wait I just read about Nidec, Sanyo Denki, and Pabst. Do they not make consumer products? Why aren't we cooling radiators with nidec V12E-M9, other than the 3A draw XD


----------



## doyll

specialedge said:


> Wait I just read about Nidec, Sanyo Denki, and Pabst. Do they not make consumer products? Why aren't we cooling radiators with nidec V12E-M9, other than the 3A draw XD


There are some fans made by these guys sold to consumers through other companies. Most popular is Gentle Typhoon series made by Nidec-Servo which used to be sold by Scythe and now by .. drawing a blank on who sells them now.

As for V12E-M9 (V12E12BHM9-0), you must be deaf because not only is that beast 38mm thick it makes 58db of noise in open air testing! Put it on a radiator and it would be even louder. Also, specs show it as 1.6A operating current, so startup current could easily be more than 3.0A .. and it's variable voltage so no way can it be controlled by anything normal people use to control their fans with .. even aquaero 6 is rated 2.5 amp would be iffy.


----------



## VSG

^DarkSide Modding


----------



## doyll

geggeg said:


> ^DarkSide Modding


Thanks! :thumb:
Almost spit coffee all over myself when I saw your post nd recognized the name. 

In my defense, my reply was before finishing 1st cup of coffee.


----------



## specialedge

Modding my antminer S9 it's no prob


----------



## Sedici

So are the NF-S12A fans not able to be taken apart or does it just take a lot of force to pry them apart? I was able to pry apart my NF-S12B fans.


----------



## Sedici

Nevermind. I've successfully disassembled it.


----------



## epic1337

oh, they're more brittle than i thought.


----------



## GeneO

Yeah, you would think they should be able to withstand a crowbar for what they cost. WT*.


----------



## KCDC

Dang, that answers that.


----------



## Sedici

Hmm so that's what it takes. It's finally ready for paint.


----------



## SimonOcean

You will probably need a few spots of superglue to put that back together. Or chewing gum, if you don't have any superglue handy.

(Somehow, I don't think I will be letting you anywhere near my Ducati).


----------



## SimonOcean

Still no word on Sterrox 120mm fans? Geeze. We are almost at the end of Q1 and the last we heard from Noctua was 1Q 2018...


----------



## asdkj1740

SimonOcean said:


> Still no word on Sterrox 120mm fans? Geeze. We are almost at the end of Q1 and the last we heard from Noctua was 1Q 2018...


very very close now, whole production process is near to finished, should be arrived in april.
noctua tends to launch new products a bit before the computex in june.
it would be very supprise to me if noctua new products launch on time, according to noctua past record.


----------



## sakae48

specialedge said:


> Wait I just read about Nidec, Sanyo Denki, and Pabst. Do they not make consumer products? Why aren't we cooling radiators with nidec V12E-M9, other than the 3A draw XD


i'm used to use them before.. they can be quiet enough if you turn down the PWM to something like 20%. i'd like to use them again but i don't know why the heck that thing would go wild randomly waking me up at midnight


----------



## ehume

SimonOcean said:


> Still no word on Sterrox 120mm fans? Geeze. We are almost at the end of Q1 and the last we heard from Noctua was 1Q 2018...


Noctua always take their time to get it right.


----------



## specialedge

sakae48 said:


> i'm used to use them before.. they can be quiet enough if you turn down the PWM to something like 20%. i'd like to use them again but i don't know why the heck that thing would go wild randomly waking me up at midnight


Haha that’s awesome


----------



## GeneO

ehume said:


> Noctua always take their time to get it right.


If they get it right, as I'm sure they will, I am in for my cooler.


----------



## SimonOcean

Noctua's Twitter channel and Instagram channel shows that the Sterrox NF-A12x25 will be out in a couple of weeks... so end April, beginning of May. At last! But I am hoping that it is a good product that is worth the wait. I've been holding out for these rather than just going with Corsair MLs. But I am waiting for other parts so it has not held me up at all in reality.


----------



## NewType88

How many years till they make a chromax version I wonder ?


----------



## doyll

NewType88 said:


> How many years till they make a chromax version I wonder ?


I'll be surprised if it's not immediate.


----------



## SimonOcean

I will be surprised if it is immediate. You know it takes many years of research to create black after doing poop brown. It's not easy you know!?


----------



## doyll

SimonOcean said:


> I will be surprised if it is immediate. You know it takes many years of research to create black after doing poop brown. It's not easy you know!?


Is that why 'Black is beautiful' saying came about?


----------



## AlphaC

NewType88 said:


> How many years till they make a chromax version I wonder ?


https://www.instagram.com/p/BiE31YFB4IP/?taken-by=noctua_at







https://www.instagram.com/p/BhrQra_hDrV/?taken-by=noctua_at


----------



## NewType88

I'm talking about that new updated 120mm fans they are coming out with. I'm personally chroMAXed out ;p

Dunno, why this picture uploaded sideways....


----------



## shilka

Hope there will be 140mm versions as well as some of my old NF-A14 fans are making annoying noises from time to time


----------



## doyll

shilka said:


> Hope there will be 140mm versions as well as some of my old NF-A14 fans are making annoying noises from time to time


Typical of Noctua talking a long time from announcing an idea until we actually get to buy product. NF-A12x25 is just an 'impending' fan .. and impending fans are only something to look at in pics or at best some show. 

Seriously, I think these will be good fans, but I don't expect to see a 140mm version any time soon. 'Soon' is less than 2 years.


----------



## Blameless

I like Noctua's heatsinks, but at least 2/3rds of my Noctua fans (and all but one of my 140mm ones) have developed annoying vibrations in short order.


----------



## mav451

The $30 price is quite tremendous lol.


----------



## MooMoo

Is there any reviews out yet?


----------



## SimonOcean

doyll said:


> NF-A12x25 is just an 'impending' fan .. and impending fans are only something to look at in pics or at best some show.


Well... I just ordered 7 from Amazon and they should arrive on the 5th May. So Noctua missed a few deadlines to release these to the market, but at least they have arrived eventually / now. My case should arrive from CA next week (despite ordering it in February) so the delay in these fans did not push my new build back at all.

Noctua warn themselves that NF-A14x?? fans will be at least a year more to develop as they don't just scale up 120mm to 140mm, but they actually redesign a significant proportion of the fan blades. So while not a total redesign from scratch, it is not a cut and paste job either. So in the meanwhile I also ordered 4x ML140 as well for my new 560 radiator.

Anyways... happy they they are ready.


----------



## doyll

SimonOcean said:


> Well... I just ordered 7 from Amazon and they should arrive on the 5th May. So Noctua missed a few deadlines to release these to the market, but at least they have arrived eventually / now. My case should arrive from CA next week (despite ordering it in February) so the delay in these fans did not push my new build back at all.
> 
> Noctua warn themselves that NF-A14x?? fans will be at least a year more to develop as they don't just scale up 120mm to 140mm, but they actually redesign a significant proportion of the fan blades. So while not a total redesign from scratch, it is not a cut and paste job either. So in the meanwhile I also ordered 4x ML140 as well for my new 560 radiator.
> 
> Anyways... happy they they are ready.


Glad they are finally out. Look forward to hearing your thoughts on their performance. 

Yeah, and I wouldn't be surprised if it was even longer. I remember hearing about NF-A12x25 years ago.


----------



## KCDC

I'm trying to remember because I can't find the original article, but what was the benefit of having such a tight clearance to the inner wall? Less gap = more air flow or something? That's the whole point of using this new material, right? It's stiff enough that it won't flex over time allowing a smaller gap?


----------



## AlphaC

KCDC said:


> I'm trying to remember because I can't find the original article, but what was the benefit of having such a tight clearance to the inner wall? Less gap = more air flow or something? That's the whole point of using this new material, right? It's stiff enough that it won't flex over time allowing a smaller gap?


You lose less pressure due to tip vortices. As the gap gets bigger there is also more noise.

Right now most solutions are using a winglet or some trailing edge devices (where the wake exists) to try to control tip vortices. As anyone who has taken aerodynamics knows, a winglet increases your _effective_ wingspan (i.e. fan blade length). You reduce the spanwise circulation along the fan blade (wing).

That's why the Noiseblocker eloop attempts to minimize the gap.

There's also fans such as the Fractal HP that have leading edge devices.

See also:
https://noctua.at/en/nf-a12x25-technical-backgrounds


> whereas most 120mm fans have a clearance of at least 1.5 to 3mm, the NF-A12x25’s ultra-small gap of only 0.5mm sets a new benchmark. This highly ambitious design enables the fan to work more efficiently against back pressure, such as on heatsinks or radiators, because it reduces leak flows through the gap between impeller and frame


----------



## KCDC

AlphaC said:


> You lose less pressure due to tip vortices. As the gap gets bigger there is also more noise.
> 
> Right now most solutions are using a winglet or some trailing edge devices (where the wake exists) to try to control tip vortices. As anyone who has taken aerodynamics knows, a winglet increases your _effective_ wingspan (i.e. fan blade length). You reduce the spanwise circulation along the fan blade (wing).
> 
> That's why the Noiseblocker eloop attempts to minimize the gap.
> 
> There's also fans such as the Fractal HP that have leading edge devices.
> 
> See also:
> https://noctua.at/en/nf-a12x25-technical-backgrounds


Thanks, that made sense.


----------



## Kaihekoa

Would you guys recommend the new NF-A12x25 or NF-F12 for use on a heatsink? It looks like the A12 is more of a hybrid fan, and I just need something smaller than the NF-A15 for my D15 because the RAM is too tall.


----------



## GeneO

SimonOcean said:


> doyll said:
> 
> 
> 
> NF-A12x25 is just an 'impending' fan .. and impending fans are only something to look at in pics or at best some show. /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Well... I just ordered 7 from Amazon and they should arrive on the 5th May. So Noctua missed a few deadlines to release these to the market, but at least they have arrived eventually / now. My case should arrive from CA next week (despite ordering it in February) so the delay in these fans did not push my new build back at all.
> 
> Noctua warn themselves that NF-A14x?? fans will be at least a year more to develop as they don't just scale up 120mm to 140mm, but they actually redesign a significant proportion of the fan blades. So while not a total redesign from scratch, it is not a cut and paste job either. So in the meanwhile I also ordered 4x ML140 as well for my new 560 radiator.
> 
> Anyways... happy they they are ready.
Click to expand...

120mm is a show stopper to me. They should have started with 140 and scaled down. Need black chromax too. Seem to often miss the mark.


----------



## Pandabird

NH-D14 here.

Massive block of a cooler, but does its job flawlessly for my 3570k

As for the fans, got 2 on the cooler and 2 in the case. The case ones are parts from my old rig and has ran for almost a decade now.

Silent and reliable.


----------



## Exilon

Replaced my 3 EK Vardar 140mms on a 420 GTS slim rad with 3 NF-A14 PPC-2000. 

-0.7C liquid temp and -200 RPM at the same time. Should've just gone with Noctuas from the start. 










Left spike is before and right most spike is after installation of the fans.


----------



## SimonOcean

Kaihekoa said:


> Would you guys recommend the new NF-A12x25 or NF-F12 for use on a heatsink? It looks like the A12 is more of a hybrid fan, and I just need something smaller than the NF-A15 for my D15 because the RAM is too tall.


To answer your question:

1) Nobody has independently tested or used the new NF-A12x25. Just Noctua themselves. If you believe the hype (like I did... just ordered 7 of them) they should be the best 120mm PC fans - PERIOD. They are ideal for use on heatsinks.

2) NF-A12x25 are frickking expensive: £26 each here in the UK. If cost is an issue and you still want top performance I recommend Corsairs ML120. If you only need 1 then ML120 Pro is £17 in the UK... I think you are in the USA... $25 there. An even better buy is the ML120 Dual Pack at £20 for two fans or $33 in the States. The NF-F12 you refer to is a decent fan, but at the lower price point I would go for the ML120 without hesitation.

My advice, especially if you just need the 1 fan for a heatsink, is to get the new NF-A12x25.


----------



## epic1337

i think the 3000RPM version would be better imho, it could rev. up depending on temperature so it can extend the maximum operating performance of the heatsink.


----------



## SimonOcean

epic1337 said:


> i think the 3000RPM version would be better imho, it could rev. up depending on temperature so it can extend the maximum operating performance of the heatsink.


Totally up to each user. My fans are usually 600-1200 rpm and sometimes ramp up as far as 1400 according to the curves set on my Aquaero. So 2000 rpm from the NF-A12x25 gives me loads of headroom. 3000 I would never use. I suppose somebody else's use case noise tolerance could be very different to mine. If you were choosing fans for a server rack I can imagine that you would not care particularly and would favour 3000 rpm. But my case sits next to my desk when I am trying to read things and think.


----------



## epic1337

definitely user dependent, also it has to factor which case is being used, certain cases can lower fan noise to an inaudible level.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

doyll said:


> Typical of Noctua talking a long time from announcing an idea until we actually get to buy product...


No kidding! The Chromax covers were displayed at CES two years running before they finally released a slightly different version (I liked the symmetrical chevron cutouts in the prototype better even though the cutouts in the production model still looks nice).


----------



## Kainhander

Kaihekoa said:


> Would you guys recommend the new NF-A12x25 or NF-F12 for use on a heatsink? It looks like the A12 is more of a hybrid fan, and I just need something smaller than the NF-A15 for my D15 because the RAM is too tall.


I'd lean towards the NF-A12x25 if everything they have online is true.

From https://noctua.at/en/nf-a12x25-interview-lars-stromback:


> Thanks to all our latest technologies, the NF-A12x25 actually outperforms the NF-F12 on radiators by a healthy margin and performs at least as well as the NF-S12A when used as a case fan.



In their plot of pressure vs flow for their 120mm fans, it looks like the NF-A12x25 will be better for most things that have some middle amount of restriction:










I know the F-12 can be acoustically noticible with a choppy timbre, so I'm interested in the A-12's accoustic profile.


----------



## ehume

Kaihekoa said:


> Would you guys recommend the new NF-A12x25 or NF-F12 for use on a heatsink? It looks like the A12 is more of a hybrid fan, and I just need something smaller than the NF-A15 for my D15 because the RAM is too tall.


Wait for some reviews to come out. While it is true that the advent of the NF-A12x25 pushes the NF-P12 to redux, this fan looks like a Gentle Typhoon with tight clearances. Somewhere out there you can get an 1800rpm PWM GT, along with a 2150rpm PWM GT. But I'd wait for the review. This new Noctua may have some surprises.


----------



## SimonOcean

ehume said:


> ...this fan looks like a Gentle Typhoon with tight clearances.


I sorta agree with you; their CEO admitted that the Gentle Typhoon was their starting point for development. But is it much more than that.

1) Blade count the same and shape similar superficially. But different blade geometry. Better? Who knows... we have to wait for data driven tests from independent sources.

Novel materials technology (requiring novel manufacturing technology, at least as far as PC components is concerned, but taking technologies from medical equipment and other higher value / high price applications). Different blade material enabling: 

2) Clearances, which you mention. Implication less back pressure

3) Better damping of tip vibration. Implication less weird harmonic noise from blades.

4) Much higher quality bearing that GT. Implication longer bearing life and less noise particularly at lower rpms.

So clearly the GT was an inspiration, but this technology should be much, much more than the Nidec fan.


----------



## ehume

SimonOcean said:


> I sorta agree with you; their CEO admitted that the Gentle Typhoon was their starting point for development. But is it much more than that.
> 
> 1) Blade count the same and shape similar superficially. But different blade geometry. Better? Who knows... we have to wait for data driven tests from independent sources.
> 
> Novel materials technology (requiring novel manufacturing technology, at least as far as PC components is concerned, but taking technologies from medical equipment and other higher value / high price applications). Different blade material enabling:
> 
> 2) Clearances, which you mention. Implication less back pressure
> 
> 3) Better damping of tip vibration. Implication less weird harmonic noise from blades.
> 
> 4) Much higher quality bearing that GT. Implication longer bearing life and less noise particularly at lower rpms.
> 
> So clearly the GT was an inspiration, but this technology should be much, much more than the Nidec fan.


Agree entirely.


----------



## Kaihekoa

SimonOcean said:


> To answer your question:
> 
> 1) Nobody has independently tested or used the new NF-A12x25. Just Noctua themselves. If you believe the hype (like I did... just ordered 7 of them) they should be the best 120mm PC fans - PERIOD. They are ideal for use on heatsinks.
> 
> 2) NF-A12x25 are frickking expensive: £26 each here in the UK. If cost is an issue and you still want top performance I recommend Corsairs ML120. If you only need 1 then ML120 Pro is £17 in the UK... I think you are in the USA... $25 there. An even better buy is the ML120 Dual Pack at £20 for two fans or $33 in the States. The NF-F12 you refer to is a decent fan, but at the lower price point I would go for the ML120 without hesitation.
> 
> My advice, especially if you just need the 1 fan for a heatsink, is to get the new NF-A12x25.


I ordered both from Newegg and will test them out. Thanks!


----------



## SimonOcean

I've just taken delivery of 5x NF-12x25 and 4x ML-120 fans.

Wow. The NFs are really, really high quality. Caveat: I am not a professional fan tester. I have - however - run some well regarded fans in my case and on radiators, so I have some experience of what competing products are offering. I've run 120mm eLoops: I like them, quite high quality, quiet when you install them appropriately (in push). And I run 120mm Vardars: I wish I had not bought them. Quiet, but poor lower build quality. One of 3 Vardars was so bad it had to be RMAed. These NF-As are in a different league in terms of build quality, even to the eLoops. I have yet to run them; I would post subjective impressions on them in use (maybe I will), but I suspect semi-professional testers will beat me to it with quantitative test results before I have them up and running in my new rig. (I still have many parts not even ordered, let alone not arrived yet. But big thumbs up for the NF-As so far.

The ML-140s are somewhat of an anticlimax so far. They just look like decent good / reasonable PC fans with similar build quality to the Noiseblockers. I realise that the bearing is the funky part of the MLs and so my impression will hopefully improve once I get them running. But I got a HWLabs GTX 560 and I didn't want to use Noctua's 140mm to 120mm NF-A adapters on that. So until they do NF-A14 fans I will go with the Corsair.


----------



## doyll

SimonOcean said:


> I've just taken delivery of 5x NF-12x25 and 4x ML-120 fans.
> *snip*


Thanks for that. Look forward to hearing what you think of their performance.


----------



## Wovermars1996

Any news of a Chromax heatsink cover for the NH U14S coming out soon?


----------



## KCDC

Everything in my case requires 140mm fans. Guess I gotta wait a while.


----------



## Brko

Have 2 fans:

NF-P12 (10 years old and still kickin')
NF-F12 PWM chromax.black.swap (10 days old)



Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## abirdie4me

Wake me up when they release these new fans in black. I guess that will be in 8 or 9 years based on their history.


----------



## SimonOcean

Probably. I wish there were black as well, but ultimately I am more interested about fan performance than colour.


----------



## elzhi

after my gentle typhoons crapped out i decided to go back to noctua, NF-A14 chromax for exhaust, 120mm nf-12 on heatsink, and two regular ugly brown ones as intakes.

for some reason the pic is flipped the wrong way ? what's up oc forum ?


----------



## merlin__36

Anybody know of a good overclocking board for the 8700k that can fit the Noctua NH-D15?


----------



## SimonOcean

ROG Maximus X Hero.


----------



## merlin__36

SimonOcean said:


> ROG Maximus X Hero.


Thank you!


----------



## jlp0209

I second the Maximus X Hero. Have tried the GB Aorus Gaming 7, Asus ROG Strix Z370G, and MSI Z370m AC. The ROG X is by far (in my own experience) the most stable in terms of voltage needed for a solid OC and VRM temp. 

Just saw this "club" today, lol. I replaced my H100i V2 w/ 2x ML120 fans with my old faithful NH-U14S air cooler. My 8700K is de-lidded. During brief stress testing w/ Prime95 v28 small ffp my max CPU temp was only 3-4 degrees higher than it was with the H100i... on near max fan speed. I had forgotten how good (and quiet) Noctua air coolers really are, I'm in love with the NH-U14S all over again!


----------



## merlin__36

jlp0209 said:


> I second the Maximus X Hero. Have tried the GB Aorus Gaming 7, Asus ROG Strix Z370G, and MSI Z370m AC. The ROG X is by far (in my own experience) the most stable in terms of voltage needed for a solid OC and VRM temp.
> 
> Just saw this "club" today, lol. I replaced my H100i V2 w/ 2x ML120 fans with my old faithful NH-U14S air cooler. My 8700K is de-lidded. During brief stress testing w/ Prime95 v28 small ffp my max CPU temp was only 3-4 degrees higher than it was with the H100i... on near max fan speed. I had forgotten how good (and quiet) Noctua air coolers really are, I'm in love with the NH-U14S all over again!


Thank you for the feedback. I just got the Maximus X Hero.


----------



## ZeVo

Haven’t been on OC.net for years, but I’m finally back!

Along with that, bought some new Noctua NF-F12 industrial 3000RPM fans for my NH-D14. 

I’m planning on doing a new build this summer, but I’m still taking my NH-D14 with me as it’s that great of a cooler. 

Will post some jenky graphs between the stock fans and the NF-F12’s sometime later this June.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

ZeVo said:


> Haven’t been on OC.net for years, but I’m finally back!
> 
> Along with that, bought some new Noctua NF-F12 industrial 3000RPM fans for my NH-D14.
> 
> I’m planning on doing a new build this summer, but I’m still taking my NH-D14 with me as it’s that great of a cooler.
> 
> Will post some jenky graphs between the stock fans and the NF-F12’s sometime later this June.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


NH-D14 responds nicely to high airflow fans. Have you seen the testing done with TY-143 fans on [email protected]? |NH-D14 w/ TY-143 @ 1200rpm 77.5c, @ 2500rpm 69.3c 8.2c cooler. Make sure your case fans have similar performance increases so they can supply the almost twice as much airflow the cooler fans are moving though cooler .. because if case fans are not matched to high performance cooler fans the cooler fans end up re-using their cooler's heated air to make up the difference and every degree warmer the air into cooler is is basically a degree hotter the CPU is.


----------



## ZeVo

doyll said:


> NH-D14 responds nicely to high airflow fans. Have you seen the testing done with TY-143 fans on [email protected]? |NH-D14 w/ TY-143 @ 1200rpm 77.5c, @ 2500rpm 69.3c 8.2c cooler. Make sure your case fans have similar performance increases so they can supply the almost twice as much airflow the cooler fans are moving though cooler .. because if case fans are not matched to high performance cooler fans the cooler fans end up re-using their cooler's heated air to make up the difference and every degree warmer the air into cooler is is basically a degree hotter the CPU is.




I have seen the testing done on the TY-143s from many years ago (scary thinking about just how long ago that was!), but I’m a Noctua fanboy, so naturally I went with them again. 

My case fans are actually going to be the 140mm industrial lineup (currently have the A14-FLXs, probably going to sell them here). Probably going to do that in a week or so.

Always nice to chat with a fellow thermal enthusiast as well. Love all the work you’ve put into testing and what not. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AlphaC

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=128&v=MIddozeRHns
https://elchapuzasinformatico.com/2018/06/computex-noctua-nh-u12-alcanza-su-5a-generacion/
https://elchapuzasinformatico.com/2...bien-prepara-nuevos-disipadores-y-accesorios/
https://elchapuzasinformatico.com/2018/06/computex-noctua-chromax-sus-disipadores-se-tinen-de-*****/
https://elchapuzasinformatico.com/2018/06/computex-noctua-nh-u12-alcanza-su-5a-generacion/


& 





NH-U12s successor imminent (AGAIN)? with NF-A12x25 push pull and +37% surface area

7 heatpipe NH-D15 lookalike in BLACK

7 heatpipe asymmetric NH-U14s successor with +30% surface area?


----------



## crpcookie

AlphaC said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=128&v=MIddozeRHns
> https://elchapuzasinformatico.com/2018/06/computex-noctua-nh-u12-alcanza-su-5a-generacion/
> https://elchapuzasinformatico.com/2...bien-prepara-nuevos-disipadores-y-accesorios/
> https://elchapuzasinformatico.com/2018/06/computex-noctua-chromax-sus-disipadores-se-tinen-de-*****/
> https://elchapuzasinformatico.com/2018/06/computex-noctua-nh-u12-alcanza-su-5a-generacion/
> 
> 
> & https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btP1LzbwYB4
> 
> 
> NH-U12s successor imminent (AGAIN)? with NF-A12x25 push pull and +37% surface area
> 
> 7 heatpipe NH-D15 lookalike in BLACK
> 
> 7 heatpipe asymmetric NH-U14s successor with +30% surface area?


Also here too with plenty of pictures.
https://smallformfactor.net/news/noctua-computex-2018


----------



## SimonOcean

New NH-U12... anyone know when in amazon?


----------



## petmic10

Added a Noctua NH-D15S with Chromax accents to my case. Replaced a dying H100i V2. Build quality is top notch.


----------



## doyll

petmic10 said:


> Added a Noctua NH-D15S with Chromax accents to my case. Replaced a dying H100i V2. Build quality is top notch.


Looks really ice .. I mean nice.  

How are temps now as compared to with H100i V2?

What do you have for intake fans? 

What are noise levels like now versus with H100i V2?


----------



## petmic10

doyll said:


> Looks really ice .. I mean nice.
> 
> How are temps now as compared to with H100i V2?
> 
> What do you have for intake fans?
> 
> What are noise levels like now versus with H100i V2?


Thanks.

I haven't done any real testing yet regarding temperatures, just monitoring with HWinfo. From what I've seen so far, temps seem better plus are more stable, if that makes any sense? 

The intake fans are the Phanteks PH-F140SP that came with the case. 

Regarding noise, I was using some Cougar CFD120's on the H100i which were pretty quiet but not an ideal fan for radiators. I'm more interested in keeping things quiet and I'm willing to give up a few degrees to obtain it. Also, I'm glad the annoying pump noise from the H100i is gone. 

The Noctua cooler was a worthy upgrade. Very good cooling while keeping things virtually silent. I'm very satisfied with my purchase.


----------



## crpcookie

Noctua's official overview of the products demonstrated at Computex 2018, consisting of release dates and prototype progress:
https://noctua.at/en/noctua-at-computex-2018


----------



## ehume

SimonOcean said:


> New NH-U12... anyone know when in amazon?


A Noctua guy said to expect it in October 2018. OTOH, he said to expect the NF-A12x25 in 1/18, and that came out in 5/18. So expect the evolved NH-U12S maybe by the end of the year, or later. Noctua really doesn't release something until all the kinks are worked out. No beta-testing on users.


----------



## doyll

ehume said:


> A Noctua guy said to expect it in October 2018. OTOH, he said to expect the NF-A12x25 in 1/18, and that came out in 5/18. So expect the evolved NH-U12S maybe by the end of the year, or later. Noctua really doesn't release something until all the kinks are worked out. No beta-testing on users.


 I like that 'no beta-testing on users'. :thumb:
We have a long history consumers doing the beta-testing of CLCs.


----------



## ZeVo

Fitted some industrial 3000RPM fans on the D14. Can’t wait for this thing to make me go deaf.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Skylinestar

Does the latest (shown in Computex2018) 12cm fan outperform current 14cm fan from Noctua (used as case intakes)? I have a feeling it is because Noctua shows the 12-to-14cm adaptor.

Heard this from guru3d:


> Chromax line heatsink covers for the NH-U14S are being prepared as well and should be available before the end of the year.


My prayer is answered.


----------



## sakae48

does the new nf-a12x25 worth to buy?. i'm currently using two delta fans for intake and thinking to get a pair of this noctuas since my workload isn't that awful and extended anymore


----------



## doyll

sakae48 said:


> does the new nf-a12x25 worth to buy?. i'm currently using two delta fans for intake and thinking to get a pair of this noctuas since my workload isn't that awful and extended anymore


Without knowing what your case fan setup is as well as their temp to rpm curves versus component fan curves it's impossible to say. Maybe the best way for me to reply is give you like to how I setup case airflow. You may be thinking the same, but it's easier to let you see how I think of airflow and how I set it up before I make suggestions. 
http://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html


----------



## sakae48

doyll said:


> Without knowing what your case fan setup is as well as their temp to rpm curves versus component fan curves it's impossible to say. Maybe the best way for me to reply is give you like to how I setup case airflow. You may be thinking the same, but it's easier to let you see how I think of airflow and how I set it up before I make suggestions.
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html



ah.. yes. my case is dark base pro 900 with 3 intakes at the front (1 NF-P12 at full speed, 2 delta FFB1212EH running at 1400 until 55-ish with steep curve to 2000-ish until 60C), 1 exhaust on the back using asus's silent curve, and reverse ATX layout. there is 5 drives after the front fans.
I'm used to have 280mm rad at the top but i ditched them and leaving nothing there. now i use NH-U12P with the fan constantly at 100% blowing hot air to the bottom (i no longer have AM4 bracket. that's why i can't use horizontal flow) fan curve is custom and i do re-adjustment everytime i changed the cooling system.

I don't think there's hot air stay inside the case since there's no high temperature indicated anywhere

there's also 40mm fan running at 1700RPM blowing M.2 SSD if it does matter

current setup has 58C maximum temp at around 25C room temperature if i'm not wrong


----------



## SimonOcean

sakae48 said:


> does the new nf-a12x25 worth to buy?. i'm currently using two delta fans for intake and thinking to get a pair of this noctuas since my workload isn't that awful and extended anymore


If you want good cooling and don't give 2 hoots about silent computing, or if you don't have disposable income (poor student, having to watch money carefully) and you already have fans, no.

If you value high performance WITH LOW ACOUSTICS and you are not scratching around for money, yes absolutely.

I can afford them, and I really place a premium on silent / near silent rigs and the fans are epic.


----------



## sakae48

SimonOcean said:


> If you want good cooling and don't give 2 hoots about silent computing, or if you don't have disposable income (poor student, having to watch money carefully) and you already have fans, no.
> 
> If you value high performance WITH LOW ACOUSTICS and you are not scratching around for money, yes absolutely.
> 
> I can afford them, and I really place a premium on silent / near silent rigs and the fans are epic.


hmm.. my temperature is quite good right now. they're not as quiet but doesn't disturb me at night. maybe i'll not buy them for my PC. they seems good for my project even thou they're hella expensive


----------



## SimonOcean

If you are happy with what you already have then sticking with your current rig sounds very sensible. It's not like they make previously good fans rubbish all of a sudden.


----------



## sakae48

SimonOcean said:


> If you are happy with what you already have then sticking with your current rig sounds very sensible. It's not like they make previously good fans rubbish all of a sudden.


yeah.. my fans wasn't rubbish. just a bit noisy and scared my guests when they're screamin'


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

SimonOcean said:


> If you want good cooling and don't give 2 hoots about silent computing, or if you don't have disposable income (poor student, having to watch money carefully) and you already have fans, no.
> 
> If you value high performance WITH LOW ACOUSTICS and you are not scratching around for money, yes absolutely.
> 
> I can afford them, and I really place a premium on silent / near silent rigs and the fans are epic.


I'm starting to see what you're talking about... just about done with my new 8086k build in a Fractal Design Define R6 and ended up needing to swap the top radiator from a 420mm with 3x 140mm Noctua 2000rpm iPPC pwm fans to instead a 360mm rad with 3x NF-A12x25's and they are pretty much silent.

This is the first PC I've had where the water pump is actually the noisiest component.


----------



## arkantos91

Hello guys, I'm about to get my new platform, with a 2700X and Gigabyte X470 Aorus Gaming 7!

I'm gonna have to wait some days before Noctua ships the AM4 kit but I want to get prepared in the mean time.

I'm going to use the NH-D14 so I hope I can achieve good overclock results. Any links on a good tutorial to do that?

Which temps should I expect? Anyone using the same cpu+d14 combo who wants to share his results?


----------



## doyll

arkantos91 said:


> Hello guys, I'm about to get my new platform, with a 2700X and Gigabyte X470 Aorus Gaming 7!
> 
> I'm gonna have to wait some days before Noctua ships the AM4 kit but I want to get prepared in the mean time.
> 
> I'm going to use the NH-D14 so I hope I can achieve good overclock results. Any links on a good tutorial to do that?
> 
> Which temps should I expect? Anyone using the same cpu+d14 combo who wants to share his results?


Can't help with OC setting but can say NH-D14 performs at least as good, maybe even slightly better than D15 / D15S do when same fans are being used on both coolers.


----------



## ehume

doyll said:


> Can't help with OC setting but can say NH-D14 performs at least as good, maybe even slightly better than D15 / D15S do when same fans are being used on both coolers.


I more or less agree, though at the bleeding edge the D15 might do a little better. Do this, though get 14cm fans with side-vents, called 16x14cm fans, NF-A15's or TY-140, TY-147A and such. And since the heatsink does better with multiple slower fans, try 3x NF-A15's (the retail versions are 1200rpm). Get low profile RAM, ultra-low profile if you can find it. That will allow you to use a 14cm fan up front. As doyll said, the NH-D14 is a great heatsink. 

Do NOT use straight 14cm fans like the NF-P14. That represents old tech before Noctua knew as much as they do now. After all, we have the A15 now. Don't get the A14. Even at 2000rpm, they are inferior to the A15's.


----------



## arkantos91

I'm going to stick to the stock Noctua fans which came with the cooler.

Hope I won't get issues with ram's height. I bought Kingston HyperX Predator which are 44 mm. Unfortunately Noctua hasn't been updating the compatibility list for the D14, according to it those are not compatible, but older HyperX Predator had a much taller heatspreader.

Fingers crossed.


----------



## NewType88

ehume said:


> Do NOT use straight 14cm fans like the NF-P14. That represents old tech before Noctua knew as much as they do now. After all, we have the A15 now. Don't get the A14. Even at 2000rpm, they are inferior to the A15's.


Why are the a14s inferior to the a15's ??


----------



## doyll

arkantos91 said:


> I'm going to stick to the stock Noctua fans which came with the cooler.
> 
> Hope I won't get issues with ram's height. I bought Kingston HyperX Predator which are 44 mm. Unfortunately Noctua hasn't been updating the compatibility list for the D14, according to it those are not compatible, but older HyperX Predator had a much taller heatspreader.
> 
> Fingers crossed.


According to Noctua specs the NH-D14 has 44mm from bottom of fins to top of CPU. Top of CPU is 5mm above the bottom of RAM. To be more details top of CPU is cc 8mm above motherboard, and RAM sockets raise RAM 3mm, so bottom of RAM is 5mm below top of CPU. 

The problem will be if 140mm fan will fit between RAM and case. Your case needs to have at least 179mm CPU clearance for 140mm fan to fit over 44mm tall RAM. 

Here is link to drawing of how to figure out what height RAM will fit cooler and case. 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/23232751-post29.html


----------



## gedoze

ehume said:


> Do NOT use straight 14cm fans like the NF-P14. That represents old tech before Noctua knew as much as they do now. After all, we have the A15 now. Don't get the A14. Even at 2000rpm, they are inferior to the A15's.


say what? I don't know about P14s, but A14s vs. A15s differ just in the size of the frame = A15s have just slightly better aerodynamics. Now, A15s and Chromax A15s are different, I have both, normal A15s (noctua colours) are 1200rpm, while chromax A15s (black) are 1500rpm.
Now, I dare you to explain your claim.


----------



## Abula

gedoze said:


> say what? I don't know about P14s, but A14s vs. A15s differ just in the size of the frame = A15s have just slightly better aerodynamics. Now, A15s and Chromax A15s are different, I have both, normal A15s (noctua colours) are 1200rpm, while chromax A15s (black) are 1500rpm.


 The A15 that come on the D15/U14 are 1500rpms, the retail version of the A15 is 1200rpms, but its the same fan overall, just goes higher.


----------



## doyll

All the testing I've seen of A15 and A14 fans show them to have basically same performance at same rpm. Same can be said for TY-140/143/147/147A/148/149 as well as TY-147A SQ and Ty-143 SQ .. same performance at same rpm.


----------



## arkantos91

I just received my 2700X. It's cooler looks awesome looking, no doubt about that. But man the cpu runs hot.

Easy over 70° under load.

I have one question for you guys for when Noctua ships the AM4 kit. 

As you know the D14 has two fans. I'm thinking about connecting the central big fan to the main cpu_fan header and the small fan to the cpu_opt fan header.

Do you think it is a good setup? Will it work as intended? I really don't know if the motherboard will be able to control both fans by itself because Noctua fans are 3 pins only.


----------



## doyll

arkantos91 said:


> I just received my 2700X. It's cooler looks awesome looking, no doubt about that. But man the cpu runs hot.
> 
> Easy over 70° under load.
> 
> I have one question for you guys for when Noctua ships the AM4 kit.
> 
> As you know the D14 has two fans. I'm thinking about connecting the central big fan to the main cpu_fan header and the small fan to the cpu_opt fan header.
> 
> Do you think it is a good setup? Will it work as intended? I really don't know if the motherboard will be able to control both fans by itself because Noctua fans are 3 pins only.


The stock cooler should cool stock CPU with no issues. What case and what case fan setup do you have? Which stock cooler do you have? Is the air going into cooler heating up before it get there making it much warmer than room? You might find this basic guide to airflow and how to optimize case airflow of interest.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html

NH-D14 stock fans will work just fine .. assuming your motherboard CPU fan headers can be set to variable voltage. That is the reason for 2x CPU fan headers. What motherboard do you have?


----------



## arkantos91

doyll said:


> The stock cooler should cool stock CPU with no issues. What case and what case fan setup do you have? Which stock cooler do you have? Is the air going into cooler heating up before it get there making it much warmer than room? You might find this basic guide to airflow and how to optimize case airflow of interest.
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/22319249-post5.html
> 
> NH-D14 stock fans will work just fine .. assuming your motherboard CPU fan headers can be set to variable voltage. That is the reason for 2x CPU fan headers. What motherboard do you have?


I'm not a complete noob on the matter fortunately!

I have a Cooler Master CM 690 II advanced and the stock Wraith Prism cooler which came with the 2700X.

The case and cabling management are fine, and it's the same setup I've used until today my previous build.

One frontal intake fan, one rear exhaust fa, two fans on the top of the case also exhaust.

Problem is my room is very hot in summer (27° today but it gets even hotter, over mid 30°) and the cpu itself warms a lot more than my old 2500K. I guess much more power comes at a cost.

Can't wait to get my AM4 kit shipped so I can get the NHD14 back in play asap. 

Motherboard is Gigabyte X470 Aorus Gaming 7. 

NHD14 fans are not pwm so I don't know if hooking them to cpu_fan and cpu_opt headers it's going to be the best choice because I think it would make them run always at the same speed.


----------



## ehume

NewType88 said:


> Why are the a14s inferior to the a15's ??





gedoze said:


> say what? I don't know about P14s, but A14s vs. A15s differ just in the size of the frame = A15s have just slightly better aerodynamics. Now, A15s and Chromax A15s are different, I have both, normal A15s (noctua colours) are 1200rpm, while chromax A15s (black) are 1500rpm.
> Now, I dare you to explain your claim.


I tested them. Tou can see my review on the other Overclockers (I am not allowed to link to it) 2018-03-18.

As for why the A15's are better then A14'sd for this application (heatsinks) I believe it has to do with the side vents on 160x140 frames. I noticed a similar phenomenon with TY-140's on the NH-D14.

As doyll pointed out, high RAM heatsinks do most of their interfering by causing your fan not to fit in your case.


----------



## doyll

Here is link to ehume's review. 
http://www.overclockers.com/noctua-nh-u14s-heatsink-review-2/
Keep in mind ehume was testing NH-U14S so his results are only show us a degree or two difference in temp on NH-U14S cooler .. of which half of that difference is well within margin of error. 

Here is Cooling Techniques fan test results of AF-A14 PWM and NF-A15 PWM 1500rpm. As you can see we do not have many places both are within 20rpm of each other, but when both are near the same speed their performance is near identical with A15 haveing a little better free airflow rating, but a little lower static pressure rating than A14 .. meaning their performance is pretty same in normal use.


----------



## ehume

So I tested the A14's on the NH-D14, which is EOL. Noctua still makes them because people still buy them.
You can get A15's at retail only 1200 rpm. You can get A14's at 1500 rpm and 2000rpm. The NH-D15 is wider than the NH-D14 -- 15cm to 14 cm. When I tested the A14's on the D15 heatsinks, they cooled very badly. But how will they do on the 14 cm NH-D14? I tested them to see. The graph is too large to upload, but the gist of it is this: for the NH-D14, the NF-A14 does very well -- except it is loud: 9 dB over ambient for 2 x A14 1500's and 15dB over ambient for 2 x A14 2000's. The review shows what 3 x A15's will do.


----------



## arkantos91

Today I've got the AM4 kit shipped for free by Noctua. God bless them and their NH-D14 cooler, temps dropped below 50° C under average load. Going to see soon how it goes with something more demanding like PUBG or the ps3 emulator which destroys cpus lol.

I hooked the the 14mm central fan to the main cpu header and the 12mm fan to the cpu opt header. They seems to run independentely, each of them at its own speed, max I've seen around 1000 rpm but again no real load tested until now. 

I was worried that, having only three pins, both fans would have run always at a fixed speed all the time, but it's not the case. They go faster and slower according to temperatures according to the motherboard I think.

No need for the y-cable splitter then!


----------



## PloniAlmoni

ehume said:


> So I tested the A14's on the NH-D14, which is EOL. Noctua still makes them because people still buy them.
> You can get A15's at retail only 1200 rpm. You can get A14's at 1500 rpm and 2000rpm. The NH-D15 is wider than the NH-D14 -- 15cm to 14 cm. When I tested the A14's on the D15 heatsinks, they cooled very badly. But how will they do on the 14 cm NH-D14? I tested them to see. The graph is too large to upload, but the gist of it is this: for the NH-D14, the NF-A14 does very well -- except it is loud: 9 dB over ambient for 2 x A14 1500's and 15dB over ambient for 2 x A14 2000's. The review shows what 3 x A15's will do.


Thanks, I have a D14.
How much louder is that than stock?


----------



## ehume

PloniAlmoni said:


> Thanks, I have a D14.
> How much louder is that than stock?


Stock is 8 dB at 1m. Two A14's make 9 dB noise. Two A14's make 15 dB. I need to test the D14 with 2xA15 fans, but 3xA15 make 5.5 dB.


----------



## doyll

ehume said:


> Stock is 8 dB at 1m. Two A14's make 9 dB noise. Two A14's make 15 dB. I need to test the D14 with 2xA15 fans, but 3xA15 make 5.5 dB.


First you say 2x A14s' make 9 dB then you say they make 15 dB. :headscrat What speed are they running at?


----------



## ehume

doyll said:


> First you say 2x A14s' make 9 dB then you say they make 15 dB. :headscrat What speed are they running at?


Ah. I screwed up. The 9 dB combo was D14+2A14-1500's; the 15-dB combo was D14+2A14-2000's. The latter is their iPPC.


----------



## doyll

ehume said:


> Ah. I screwed up. The 9 dB combo was D14+2A14-1500's; the 15-dB combo was D14+2A14-2000's. The latter is their iPPC.


Makes sense now. 1500rpm is 9dB and 2000rpm is 15dB. Would be interesting to see what the A14-2000rpm and A15 noise level is at rpm


----------



## ehume

doyll said:


> Makes sense now. 1500rpm is 9dB and 2000rpm is 15dB. Would be interesting to see what the A14-2000rpm and A15 noise level is at rpm


Should be the same or close: they share impellers.


----------



## DavePDX

ehume said:


> I more or less agree, though at the bleeding edge the D15 might do a little better. Do this, though get 14cm fans with side-vents, called 16x14cm fans, NF-A15's or TY-140, TY-147A and such. And since the heatsink does better with multiple slower fans, try 3x NF-A15's (the retail versions are 1200rpm). Get low profile RAM, ultra-low profile if you can find it. That will allow you to use a 14cm fan up front. As doyll said, the NH-D14 is a great heatsink.
> 
> Do NOT use straight 14cm fans like the NF-P14. That represents old tech before Noctua knew as much as they do now. After all, we have the A15 now. Don't get the A14. Even at 2000rpm, they are inferior to the A15's.


ehume, I purchased my NH-D14 in 2012. The original fans are working fine atm. I was thinking about replacement fans when/if needed. The FAQ for the NH-D14 (9th question down) regarding the use of the NF-A15 fans: "...the NF-A15 fan can only be installed using optional fan clips. For this, please contact our customer service." In your testing with the NF-A15 fans on the NH-D14 were you able to use the fan clips that came with the NH-D14 or did you have to acquire/purchase specific fan clips for the NF-A15 fans? TIA for your help!

https://noctua.at/en/products/discontinued-products/nh-d14/?tab=faq


----------



## ehume

DavePDX said:


> ehume, I purchased my NH-D14 in 2012. The original fans are working fine atm. I was thinking about replacement fans when/if needed. The FAQ for the NH-D14 (9th question down) regarding the use of the NF-A15 fans: "...the NF-A15 fan can only be installed using optional fan clips. For this, please contact our customer service." In your testing with the NF-A15 fans on the NH-D14 were you able to use the fan clips that came with the NH-D14 or did you have to acquire/purchase specific fan clips for the NF-A15 fans? TIA for your help!
> 
> https://noctua.at/en/products/discontinued-products/nh-d14/?tab=faq


For TY fans or for NF-A15 I never even thought about using other than D14 clips. Now mind you, I have two kinds of D14 clips. One type is the original type that uses push-through plastic bits. The NF-A15 will do fine with those, but the TY flanges are thicker and will require some work (link no longer works). The other type of clips does not use plastic bits. Those are fine for NF-A15 fans or for TY fans.

For the D14 I now recommend two NF-A14 PWM fans. They will spend most of their time in the inaudible range since they are PWM. I put my chart in a review that I uploaded last night. When my editors get to it and if they like it, it will be published some time and you can feast on the details. But the short version is to upgrade with A14 fans, using A14/D15 adapters, stretched to fit.

The A15 PWM fans can use the original fan clips. But remember they can only go up to 1200 rpm.


----------



## DavePDX

ehume said:


> For TY fans or for NF-A15 I never even thought about using other than D14 clips. Now mind you, I have two kinds of D14 clips. One type is the original type that uses push-through plastic bits. The NF-A15 will do fine with those, but the TY flanges are thicker and will require some work (link no longer works). The other type of clips does not use plastic bits. Those are fine for NF-A15 fans or for TY fans.
> 
> For the D14 I now recommend two NF-A14 PWM fans. They will spend most of their time in the inaudible range since they are PWM. I put my chart in a review that I uploaded last night. When my editors get to it and if they like it, it will be published some time and you can feast on the details. But the short version is to upgrade with A14 fans, using A14/D15 adapters, stretched to fit.
> 
> The A15 PWM fans can use the original fan clips. But remember they can only go up to 1200 rpm.


Thank you very much for your detailed reply. I'll certainly take a look at your review when it is published as your prior reviews have been populated with quite helpful information.

Your explanation provided me with several options that would work. My daily use is not typical I'd think. I currently run 12 World Community Grid workunits at a time on my 2700X CPU and with the original two fans for the NH-D14. I have to strain to listen to be able to hear my computer as it stands and maximum temps run up on that load up to 68 deg. C (typically 64-65 deg. C) and the 8 CPU cores run no less than 3.94 GHz with that load (the CPU runs stock - not overclocked). The stock Wraith Prism CPU fan would run up to 78 deg. C with only 8 workunits running at a time and it was really noisy. To say that I'm really pleased with the NH-D14's performance would be an understatement.

I posted my message to you after only looking at the last 4 or 5 pages of this thread. I'm definitely going to have to do more research and your upcoming article will be helpful. If I can increase cooling and maintain the same level of "quietness" that I currently experience then I would pursue that approach.


----------



## ehume

With the D14, do your preparations. On 4 July the Noctua guy wrote me to tell me that Noctua does not make A14-D14 fan clips. They do make A14-D15 fan clips. Those can be stretched to mount A14 fans on the D14. I know because that is what I did.

So email to Noctua, and accompany it with a copy of your original receipt (I still have a copy of mine from 2010-03-06). They will send you two pair of 140mm fan clips.

If you don't still have a copy of the receipt (the receipt for my 2d D14 has vanished in cloud space) email Noctua Tech Support and ask where you can buy those clips.

Then, while that is percolating, order a pair of retail NF-A14 PWM fans (1500 rpm). With nearly identical noise to the original fans (9 vs 8 dB at 1m) they are the way to go. To get better cooling with the A14 the next step up is the NF-A14 2000 iPPC, but it is 15 dB at 1 meter. As I say in my conclusion, "Not jet engine loud, but definitely there."


----------



## DavePDX

ehume said:


> With the D14, do your preparations. On 4 July the Noctua guy wrote me to tell me that Noctua does not make A14-D14 fan clips. They do make A14-D15 fan clips. Those can be stretched to mount A14 fans on the D14. I know because that is what I did.
> 
> So email to Noctua, and accompany it with a copy of your original receipt (I still have a copy of mine from 2010-03-06). They will send you two pair of 140mm fan clips.
> 
> If you don't still have a copy of the receipt (the receipt for my 2d D14 has vanished in cloud space) email Noctua Tech Support and ask where you can buy those clips.
> 
> Then, while that is percolating, order a pair of retail NF-A14 PWM fans (1500 rpm). With nearly identical noise to the original fans (9 vs 8 dB at 1m) they are the way to go. To get better cooling with the A14 the next step up is the NF-A14 2000 iPPC, but it is 15 dB at 1 meter. As I say in my conclusion, "Not jet engine loud, but definitely there."


On the NH-D14 FAQ page there is this question and answer:
"Can I install a 140mm fan with a square frame (e.g. NF-A14)?
No. Square 140mm fans like the NF-A14 would cause compatibility issues in many configurations and use a hole spacing of 124.5mm. The cooler's fan clips are designed for 105mm hole spacing as used by round 140/150mm and square 120mm fans."

This had me concerned at first. So if, as you indicate, I can get a couple of sets of the A14-D15 fan clips then I should be good to go. Your point about the fan clips is exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks again! I do have my purchase receipt fortunately (I used to to get the NM-AM4 upgrade kit). I will take your suggestion and email Noctua Tech Support in order to get that process going if possible. I've already experienced Noctua's customer support and it is was a very positive experience. I'm okay with purchasing the clips if need be.

Before I saw your post here I was re-examining the chart in the article of yours that doyll kindly linked. The mounting issue aside my thinking was with two NF-A14 PWM fans (1500 rpm) that if noise was an issue (I doubt it would be though) I could use the L.N.A.s included with the fans and achieve in the worst case scenario approximately the same noise level and probably with slightly improved cooling results compared to the original fans that I'm using now. The upside in additional cooling without the L.N.A.s has hooked me. My computer case (a HAF-X) has plenty of clearance if I need to push up the NF-A14 PWM fan to clear the 44mm tall DIMMs.


----------



## JennyBeans

I'll be joining you soon >.> I get my noctua NH-D15Se in the mail tomorrow or friday I can't wait !!!!


----------



## ciarlatano

JennyBeans said:


> I'll be joining you soon >.> I get my noctua NH-D15Se in the mail tomorrow or friday I can't wait !!!!


:thumb:


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## JennyBeans

Look what arrived this morning


----------



## ehume

DavePDX said:


> On the NH-D14 FAQ page there is this question and answer:
> "Can I install a 140mm fan with a square frame (e.g. NF-A14)?
> No. Square 140mm fans like the NF-A14 would cause compatibility issues in many configurations and use a hole spacing of 124.5mm. The cooler's fan clips are designed for 105mm hole spacing as used by round 140/150mm and square 120mm fans."
> 
> This had me concerned at first. So if, as you indicate, I can get a couple of sets of the A14-D15 fan clips then I should be good to go. Your point about the fan clips is exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks again! I do have my purchase receipt fortunately (I used to to get the NM-AM4 upgrade kit). I will take your suggestion and email Noctua Tech Support in order to get that process going if possible. I've already experienced Noctua's customer support and it is was a very positive experience. I'm okay with purchasing the clips if need be.
> 
> Before I saw your post here I was re-examining the chart in the article of yours that doyll kindly linked. The mounting issue aside my thinking was with two NF-A14 PWM fans (1500 rpm) that if noise was an issue (I doubt it would be though) I could use the L.N.A.s included with the fans and achieve in the worst case scenario approximately the same noise level and probably with slightly improved cooling results compared to the original fans that I'm using now. The upside in additional cooling without the L.N.A.s has hooked me. My computer case (a HAF-X) has plenty of clearance if I need to push up the NF-A14 PWM fan to clear the 44mm tall DIMMs.


If you get the PWM version of the retail NF-A14 you will probably not have to use the LNA, since the fans will spend most of their time running quietly. Try it before you attach those LNA.

I am glad you have a HAF-X. Perfect.


----------



## JennyBeans

Its sooo big ... 



thats what she said...


----------



## NewType88

@JennyBeans take a better picture, I like the grey/metal/stock noctua color minimal lighting look ya got going.


----------



## xxicrimsonixx

I have a bunch of Noctua P12 and P14, and they are beasts. My computer has been on pretty much 24/7 for around 6 years, and the fans have had absolutely no issue, and are very, very quiet, even at full load.


----------



## ehume

xxicrimsonixx said:


> I have a bunch of Noctua P12 and P14, and they are beasts. My computer has been on pretty much 24/7 for around 6 years, and the fans have had absolutely no issue, and are very, very quiet, even at full load.


That's why they sold so well for so many years.


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## asdkj1740

xxicrimsonixx said:


> I have a bunch of Noctua P12 and P14, and they are beasts. My computer has been on pretty much 24/7 for around 6 years, and the fans have had absolutely no issue, and are very, very quiet, even at full load.


p12 pwm is overpriced. the old p12 is cheaper and it performs the same as p12 pwm, they are all first gen sso anyway.
the latest p12 1700rpm is insanely good, and way cheaper than the a12x25, p12 1700rpm is the best choice (among noctua fans) for case fan. 
i hope noctua would also launch s12b 1700rpm version as s12b rpm are extremely undertuned officially in my opinion.


----------



## asdkj1740

A14-D15 fan clip is simply the fan clip on c14s.
i bought this fan clip and used on d15s with a14pwm, no problem at all.


wait for the new u12s cooler. it should be launched in q4 2018 or q1 2019. it is not wise to invest on d14 now, unless you can get those clips for free.


----------



## asdkj1740

5v fans are out now, asus router saver!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## MooMoo

asdkj1740 said:


> 5v fans are out now, asus router saver!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I've been using NF A8 PWM 12v on my asus router for few years now, works fine thru usb port.


----------



## doyll

MooMoo said:


> I've been using NF A8 PWM 12v on my asus router for few years now, works fine thru usb port.


Just so others know, USB ports are 5v power with USB 2 being rated 0.5a and USB 3 being rated 0.9a maximum load. Keep in mind most fans' amp rating is running load with startup load being 2-5 times higher. So if impeller get stopped by something fan motor will draw from 2x to 5x more amps than it normally does. In other words, be careful of what fan you power off of USB port.


----------



## asdkj1740

MooMoo said:


> I've been using NF A8 PWM 12v on my asus router for few years now, works fine thru usb port.


rpm may be too low at 5v for 12v fans, although it is still sufficient and effective enough to cool dowm router.
this time noctua 5v fans include a usb cable. so convenient!


----------



## asdkj1740

selling 6 fans for buying 2 a12x25, and a12x25 is totally worth it.


----------



## MooMoo

asdkj1740 said:


> rpm may be too low at 5v for 12v fans, although it is still sufficient and effective enough to cool dowm router.
> this time noctua 5v fans include a usb cable. so convenient!


It is fairly low rpm, but atleast it is silent as I like and gets the job done. 
I might get those 5V fans when I buy new router or need it elsewhere, but I wonder is it possible to make it run lower rpm as 17,7 dB is too much noise for me to run 24/7?


----------



## asdkj1740

MooMoo said:


> It is fairly low rpm, but atleast it is silent as I like and gets the job done.
> I might get those 5V fans when I buy new router or need it elsewhere, but I wonder is it possible to make it run lower rpm as 17,7 dB is too much noise for me to run 24/7?


it is hard for noctua to further downvolt the 5v fan so no low noise adapter is included in 5v fans this time.
5v fan could be much noisier, like 1000rpm more compared to having 12v fan powered by usb port.


----------



## JennyBeans

asdkj1740 said:


> it is hard for noctua to further downvolt the 5v fan so no low noise adapter is included in 5v fans this time.
> 5v fan could be much noisier, like 1000rpm more compared to having 12v fan powered by usb port.



so the low noise adapter slows them down?


----------



## ciarlatano

JennyBeans said:


> so the low noise adapter slows them down?


That is correct. It does this by lowering the voltage to the fan.

And curious to hear your experience coming from a CLC over to the D15. Enjoying the lower temps with less noise?


----------



## JennyBeans

ciarlatano said:


> That is correct. It does this by lowering the voltage to the fan.
> 
> And curious to hear your experience coming from a CLC over to the D15. Enjoying the lower temps with less noise?



I actually never heard much of the h80 , but its so pretty I can't help but look at it I can't to have it up on the desk once I move my room around


----------



## specialedge

JennyBeans said:


> Look what arrived this morning


I can remember the day when my nh-d15 se-am4 arrived 😻😻


----------



## JennyBeans

NewType88 said:


> @*JennyBeans* take a better picture, I like the grey/metal/stock noctua color minimal lighting look ya got going.



here's a better picture


----------



## SimonOcean

Friends, Romans... Here is the data you've been looking for on the NF-A12x25.


----------



## asdkj1740

SimonOcean said:


> Friends, Romans... Here is the data you've been looking for on the NF-A12x25.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dX7azFtJDT8&feature=youtu.be


a12x25 at 2000rpm is quieter than phanteks f120xp at 1500rpm.


----------



## ciarlatano

SimonOcean said:


> Friends, Romans... Here is the data you've been looking for on the NF-A12x25.


The normalized case noise tests are really the story here, and the NF-A12x25 really excels there. I'd still like to see them tested on an efficient cooling solution, though.


----------



## doyll

asdkj1740 said:


> a12x25 at 2000rpm is quieter than phanteks f120xp at 1500rpm.


I assume you are using Optimum Tech data for NF-A12x25 fan noise level, but I do not see PH-F120XP listed in their test data. Where are you getting the PH-F120XP fan data from?


----------



## asdkj1740

doyll said:


> I assume you are using Optimum Tech data for NF-A12x25 fan noise level, but I do not see PH-F120XP listed in their test data. Where are you getting the PH-F120XP fan data from?


myself


----------



## ciarlatano

asdkj1740 said:


> myself


Do you have the NF-A12x25 and are stating this after doing controlled comparisons? If so, what testing methodology did you use? Or are you just saying this off the cuff?

I would expect that your statement is likely true, especially on rads. The F120XP is a solid but unspectacular performer as a case fan (which is it's intended application), but is not particularly good on rads.


----------



## asdkj1740

ciarlatano said:


> Do you have the NF-A12x25 and are stating this after doing controlled comparisons? If so, what testing methodology did you use? Or are you just saying this off the cuff?
> 
> I would expect that your statement is likely true, especially on rads. The F120XP is a solid but unspectacular performer as a case fan (which is it's intended application), but is not particularly good on rads.


front intake.
f120xp is good, but it is noisy at 1500rpm.

the balancing of a12x25 is unreal!


----------



## doyll

ciarlatano said:


> Do you have the NF-A12x25 and are stating this after doing controlled comparisons? If so, what testing methodology did you use? Or are you just saying this off the cuff?
> 
> I would expect that your statement is likely true, especially on rads. The F120XP is a solid but unspectacular performer as a case fan (which is it's intended application), but is not particularly good on rads.


Go PH-F120MP instead of PH-F120XP. Much better fan in my opinion. But I suspect NF-A12x25 are better.


----------



## ciarlatano

doyll said:


> Go PH-F120MP instead of PH-F120XP. Much better fan in my opinion. But I suspect NF-A12x25 are better.


Not sure what you mean or why you quoted me. It goes without saying that the F120MP is a better fan than the F120XP in almost every application. But the F120MP was not a topic of conversation.


----------



## NewType88

@JennyBeans did you paint it ? I thought it was the gunmetal case from the other picture, haha. Either way still looks good, I like noctua colors with grey or white cases, black just doesn't do it for me.


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## asdkj1740

Question: Will this be available in black in the future?
Answer: yes - we're working on it. Unfortunately the fans material is rather delicate. A simple colour change is not possible - however we're hoping to launch the black NF-A12x25 PWM in Q1/2019. 
By Noctua Cooling Solutions SELLER on June 15, 2018


----------



## JennyBeans

NewType88 said:


> @*JennyBeans* did you paint it ? I thought it was the gunmetal case from the other picture, haha. Either way still looks good, I like noctua colors with grey or white cases, black just doesn't do it for me.


 HA no .. but I love the white case ..and the tower itself will be done on the 25th when I get my ram decided to go rgb get that extra glow


----------



## Goa80

hi,

after 11 years I've decided to change my NH-D14 with a brand new NHD-15 , the reason is that probably heatsink base needed to be lapped as I've noted that the TIM spread was very bad and not homogenous .

Well the NH-D15 is a beast, with [email protected] ghz 1.216 vcore under IBT and XTU cpu stress test I have max temps of 74°C.

Case Fractal design R6 tempered, I have 2 140fans as intake ( default r6 case fans X2 GP-14 1200RPM non PWM) + 1 X2 GP-14 as exaust.

As the gpu temp was too high even at idle I had 55°C I've decided to add 1 Noctua NF-P14r redux-1500 PWM ( which I was using on the nh-d14) at the bottom case as intake, now gpu temps at iddle is at 30°C....


Today I've received from amazon 2 new NF-A14 as I want to replace the front stock fans.

Do you think that's a good idea?

I am also thinking to add 1 more fan at bottom for intake, would that be a good idea?
I am not planning to add fans at top as exhaust as that would mean removing tha top case cover and it look soo ugly withou it.


----------



## doyll

Goa80 said:


> hi,
> 
> after 11 years I've decided to change my NH-D14 with a brand new NHD-15 , the reason is that probably heatsink base needed to be lapped as I've noted that the TIM spread was very bad and not homogenous .
> 
> Well the NH-D15 is a beast, with [email protected] ghz 1.216 vcore under IBT and XTU cpu stress test I have max temps of 74°C.
> 
> Case Fractal design R6 tempered, I have 2 140fans as intake ( default r6 case fans X2 GP-14 1200RPM non PWM) + 1 X2 GP-14 as exaust.
> 
> As the gpu temp was too high even at idle I had 55°C I've decided to add 1 Noctua NF-P14r redux-1500 PWM ( which I was using on the nh-d14) at the bottom case as intake, now gpu temps at iddle is at 30°C....
> 
> 
> Today I've received from amazon 2 new NF-A14 as I want to replace the front stock fans.
> 
> Do you think that's a good idea?
> 
> I am also thinking to add 1 more fan at bottom for intake, would that be a good idea?
> I am not planning to add fans at top as exhaust as that would mean removing tha top case cover and it look soo ugly withou it.


So you have 2x new NF-A14 1500rpm fans to use as front intakes and NF-P14R redux 1500rpm as bottom intake. Honestly that is all the case fans you should need. I would remove all PCIe back slot covers to increase rear vent area which will give case much better front to back airflow. Have bottom fans speed controlled based on GPU temps and top front based on CPU temp .. lower front on mobo or whichever component is running warmest. Yeah, I did not mention exhaust fans because with this setup you shouldn't need any .. and with no exhaust fans the system will be quieter too.


----------



## asdkj1740

my gpu got ~5c decrease during gaming after changing from f120xp to a12x25 running at the same 1500rpm.
i am ussing demcifilter in the front intake so i think all the improvment goes to a12x25 strong airpressure.
i love a12x25 so much perfect match with demcifilter!


----------



## Goa80

doyll said:


> So you have 2x new NF-A14 1500rpm fans to use as front intakes and NF-P14R redux 1500rpm as bottom intake. Honestly that is all the case fans you should need. I would remove all PCIe back slot covers to increase rear vent area which will give case much better front to back airflow. Have bottom fans speed controlled based on GPU temps and top front based on CPU temp .. lower front on mobo or whichever component is running warmest. Yeah, I did not mention exhaust fans because with this setup you shouldn't need any .. and with no exhaust fans the system will be quieter too.


hi thanks for your reply, I have an asus 1080ti strix OC, what should I do in order to have the bottom fan controlled based on GPU?
Do I just have to connect the 4pin fan into the GPU?


----------



## doyll

Goa80 said:


> hi thanks for your reply, I have an asus 1080ti strix OC, what should I do in order to have the bottom fan controlled based on GPU?
> Do I just have to connect the 4pin fan into the GPU?


I don't know for sure, but many motherboards have a fan header that uses GPU temp. That would be my preferred way of control. If your motherboard can't do that, use PWM control signal from GPU to control bottom fan.


----------



## ciarlatano

Goa80 said:


> hi thanks for your reply, I have an asus 1080ti strix OC, what should I do in order to have the bottom fan controlled based on GPU?
> Do I just have to connect the 4pin fan into the GPU?


SpeedFan and Argus Monitor can both setup fan curves based on GPU temp.


----------



## ehume

Goa80 said:


> Today I've received from amazon 2 new NF-A14 as I want to replace the front stock fans.
> 
> Do you think that's a good idea?
> 
> I am also thinking to add 1 more fan at bottom for intake, would that be a good idea?
> I am not planning to add fans at top as exhaust as that would mean removing tha top case cover and it look soo ugly withou it.


I have been using 2 A14 ULN fans in the front of my R5 for years. I like them. OTOH I have removed the back "grill" so air flows freely and silently out the back.

I have not needed a bottom fan, and I think a front-to-back airflow is better than a bottom/front to top/back airflow.

In case you are wondering, the A14 does badly on a D15, where the same fan does wonderfully on a D14. The results of that will be published soon.

BTW -- you are right about the D15 being so good. It does a good job on an i7 8700k at 5 GHz, Vcore = 1.37V.


----------



## asdkj1740

noctua a12x25 is not just a demcifilter killer, but a stupid mesh killer too!
wondering how a12x25 could be even better on some cases like s340.


----------



## PloniAlmoni

ehume said:


> I have been using 2 A14 ULN fans in the front of my R5 for years. I like them. OTOH I have removed the back "grill" so air flows freely and silently out the back.
> 
> I have not needed a bottom fan, and I think a front-to-back airflow is better than a bottom/front to top/back airflow.
> 
> In case you are wondering, the A14 does badly on a D15, where the same fan does wonderfully on a D14. The results of that will be published soon.
> 
> BTW -- you are right about the D15 being so good. It does a good job on an i7 8700k at 5 GHz, Vcore = 1.37V.


Where on the D14, both in the middle and a side of the towers, or everywhere or...? How much of a difference does it make?


----------



## ehume

PloniAlmoni said:


> Where on the D14, both in the middle and a side of the towers, or everywhere or...? How much of a difference does it make?


With the D14, everything depends on how tall your RAM is. My 4790k has Ultra-Low Profile DDR3 RAM. Because of that, a 140mm push fan can go in front with no problems. With my current 8700K, the best RAM I could find was low profile RAM, which causes the 140mm push fan to lift a cm above the top of the heatsink. It does not seem to make a difference in cooling. But if your case won't accept a higher fan, you can't do that.

If you are case-constrained you can fasten the A14's in the pull position, on the backs of the towers. That seems to make 0-1C difference in cooling. The only problem with that is you might have MB MOSFET heatsinks at the back of your CPU heatsink. My 8700K MB has heatsinks in the back that lifted fans higher than the RAM did. Again, it seemed to make no difference in cooling but if you are case-constrained, you cannot do it.

I did try the D14 with three 1200rpm retail A15's. It cooled better than two A15's, but 1.5 dB louder. Two 1500rpm A14's cooled better than three A15's, but 3.5dB louder. As usual with these things, you get what you pay for: faster airflow means more noise.

At bottom, using 140mm push fans depends on the interplay between how high your RAM heatsinks are (I call them coxcombs, similar to what you see on roosters) and your case (is it wid or narrow). Using 140mm pull fans will depend on whether your MB has MOSFET heatsinks downstream from your CPU heatsink. If you can tolerate that then you can use two or three 140mm fans.


----------



## PloniAlmoni

ehume said:


> With the D14, everything depends on how tall your RAM is. My 4790k has Ultra-Low Profile DDR3 RAM. Because of that, a 140mm push fan can go in front with no problems. With my current 8700K, the best RAM I could find was low profile RAM, which causes the 140mm push fan to lift a cm above the top of the heatsink. It does not seem to make a difference in cooling. But if your case won't accept a higher fan, you can't do that.
> 
> If you are case-constrained you can fasten the A14's in the pull position, on the backs of the towers. That seems to make 0-1C difference in cooling. The only problem with that is you might have MB MOSFET heatsinks at the back of your CPU heatsink. My 8700K MB has heatsinks in the back that lifted fans higher than the RAM did. Again, it seemed to make no difference in cooling but if you are case-constrained, you cannot do it.
> 
> I did try the D14 with three 1200rpm retail A15's. It cooled better than two A15's, but 1.5 dB louder. Two 1500rpm A14's cooled better than three A15's, but 3.5dB louder. As usual with these things, you get what you pay for: faster airflow means more noise.
> 
> At bottom, using 140mm push fans depends on the interplay between how high your RAM heatsinks are (I call them coxcombs, similar to what you see on roosters) and your case (is it wid or narrow). Using 140mm pull fans will depend on whether your MB has MOSFET heatsinks downstream from your CPU heatsink. If you can tolerate that then you can use two or three 140mm fans.


I'm not sure all of what you're talking about. I'm really a noob when it comes to this sort of thing. I'm using low-profile LPX RAM, not sure about MOSFETs and so on. My case is a HAF 912, and my x99 motherboard is in my signature if you could look at pictures online of it and see what it has. My heatsink is currently situated so it blows out the back of my case. In what I think is called a "pull" configuration? (One fan is blowing out the back, next to the back, with one fan in the middle in the same direction.)


----------



## ehume

PloniAlmoni said:


> I'm not sure all of what you're talking about. I'm really a noob when it comes to this sort of thing. I'm using low-profile LPX RAM, not sure about MOSFETs and so on. My case is a HAF 912, and my x99 motherboard is in my signature if you could look at pictures online of it and see what it has. My heatsink is currently situated so it blows out the back of my case. In what I think is called a "pull" configuration? (One fan is blowing out the back, next to the back, with one fan in the middle in the same direction.)


OK. LPX RAM is Corsair's low-profile RAM. I use it too, and it pushes 140mm fans up. Unfortunately, the HAF 912 is only 9" wide, so it is in the indeterminate zone -- you will have to measure to see if you have 140mm from the top of your RAM to the inside of the sidewall of your case.

Your MB seems to have RAM upstream and downstream from the CPU heatsink. The MB does not appear to have a MOSFET heatsink downstream from the CPU heatsink. My picture of your MB shows that your MOSFETs line the top of the MB, and do not have a heatsink covering them.

With RAM on both sides, so it all comes down to how much distance between the top of your RAM to the inside of the sidewall of your case.

BTW -- the difference between a "push" fan position and a "pull" position is that the fan pushes air into a heatsink in the "push" fan position -- upstream from the fin stack, or tower; in a "pull" position the fan is usually attached to the downstream side of the towers and pulls air through the heatsink. In the D14 and D15 fans can be attached to both sides, or you can put on three fans.


----------



## ciarlatano

ehume said:


> OK. LPX RAM is Corsair's low-profile RAM.


And oddly, it isn't actually low profile RAM. It is simply standard height RAM without absurd ornamentation posing as heatsinks. But, this is another topic entirely.


----------



## ehume

ciarlatano said:


> And oddly, it isn't actually low profile RAM. It is simply standard height RAM without absurd ornamentation posing as heatsinks. But, this is another topic entirely.


LPX is the lowest profile DDR4 RAM I could find, which is odd because Crucial made "Very Low Profile" DDR3 RAM:

DDR3 uses higher voltage than DDR4. I have used 1.65v in my RAM; my current LPX RAM runs at 1.35v. You don't need coxcombs for that.


----------



## PloniAlmoni

ehume said:


> OK. LPX RAM is Corsair's low-profile RAM. I use it too, and it pushes 140mm fans up. Unfortunately, the HAF 912 is only 9" wide, so it is in the indeterminate zone -- you will have to measure to see if you have 140mm from the top of your RAM to the inside of the sidewall of your case.
> 
> Your MB seems to have RAM upstream and downstream from the CPU heatsink. The MB does not appear to have a MOSFET heatsink downstream from the CPU heatsink. My picture of your MB shows that your MOSFETs line the top of the MB, and do not have a heatsink covering them.
> 
> With RAM on both sides, so it all comes down to how much distance between the top of your RAM to the inside of the sidewall of your case.
> 
> BTW -- the difference between a "push" fan position and a "pull" position is that the fan pushes air into a heatsink in the "push" fan position -- upstream from the fin stack, or tower; in a "pull" position the fan is usually attached to the downstream side of the towers and pulls air through the heatsink. In the D14 and D15 fans can be attached to both sides, or you can put on three fans.


Interesting, thanks. Another question, does this mean my cooler should really be blowing vertical? To cool the VRMs? (MOSFETs?) I'm not sure if I have the room to do that also... If so.


----------



## Goa80

ehume said:


> I have been using 2 A14 ULN fans in the front of my R5 for years. I like them. OTOH I have removed the back "grill" so air flows freely and silently out the back.
> 
> I have not needed a bottom fan, and I think a front-to-back airflow is better than a bottom/front to top/back airflow.
> 
> In case you are wondering, the A14 does badly on a D15, where the same fan does wonderfully on a D14. The results of that will be published soon.
> 
> BTW -- you are right about the D15 being so good. It does a good job on an i7 8700k at 5 GHz, Vcore = 1.37V.


hi mate how much is your temp at 5.ghz with the D15?

Furthermore: for some reason my brand new NF-14 cannot reach 1500 rpm, their max rpm is about 1350....I connect them ona 4pin PWM header on my motherbord ( asrock taichi z370) , I've tried all avalable headers on the modo but they dont reach their max speed even tough all is properle set in the bios.
Should I rma them?

As I am running an R6 fracttal design which suck the air from the sides of front pannel I want as much intake for push configuration to assure fresh air for the cooler...
p.s. I am using the supplied 30 cm cable exetensions along with the noctua Y split cable where I attached both fans.

What could be the reason for such a poor fans peformance?


----------



## ehume

PloniAlmoni said:


> Interesting, thanks. Another question, does this mean my cooler should really be blowing vertical? To cool the VRMs? (MOSFETs?) I'm not sure if I have the room to do that also... If so.


Forget that. Long ago -- 10+ years -- people argued for heatsinks that blew from the bottom of a MB to the top. Some heatsinks were even built so that you could do that. But since then we have seen really hot GPUs. Going from bottom to top would bring GPU heat to CPU heatsinks, thus compromising cooling (just ask doyll about that). Your front-to-back airflow is perfect.


----------



## PloniAlmoni

ehume said:


> Forget that. Long ago -- 10+ years -- people argued for heatsinks that blew from the bottom of a MB to the top. Some heatsinks were even built so that you could do that. But since then we have seen really hot GPUs. Going from bottom to top would bring GPU heat to CPU heatsinks, thus compromising cooling (just ask doyll about that). Your front-to-back airflow is perfect.


Glad to hear I'm doing something right for a change...


----------



## PloniAlmoni

ehume said:


> Forget that. Long ago -- 10+ years -- people argued for heatsinks that blew from the bottom of a MB to the top. Some heatsinks were even built so that you could do that. But since then we have seen really hot GPUs. Going from bottom to top would bring GPU heat to CPU heatsinks, thus compromising cooling (just ask doyll about that). Your front-to-back airflow is perfect.


Maybe I should forget about adding a big exhaust fan at the top of my case then also, would it pull the GPU heat even up top? Would it reduce VRM temps?


----------



## Melcar

PloniAlmoni said:


> Maybe I should forget about adding a big exhaust fan at the top of my case then also, would it pull the GPU heat even up top? Would it reduce VRM temps?



You can try and see if it works for you. A fan up there will exhaust warm air, but in my personal tests it did almost nothing for VRM temperatures. No negative or positive effects towards other components either. An exhaust fan up there can be useful if for example your CPU fan is a lot more powerful than your rear exhaust fan. Air will only leave your case as fast as the slowest exhaust fan (provided everything else is sealed off). This is why many people simply forgo exhaust fans and remove case grills instead. An alternative to that is to either have a much faster exhaust fan than your CPU cooler or at the very least the same fan running in sync with the CPU fan.

Another popular option is to set it as intake. Have done that myself too and noticed no difference.


----------



## PloniAlmoni

Melcar said:


> You can try and see if it works for you. A fan up there will exhaust warm air, but in my personal tests it did almost nothing for VRM temperatures. No negative or positive effects towards other components either. An exhaust fan up there can be useful if for example your CPU fan is a lot more powerful than your rear exhaust fan. Air will only leave your case as fast as the slowest exhaust fan (provided everything else is sealed off). This is why many people simply forgo exhaust fans and remove case grills instead. An alternative to that is to either have a much faster exhaust fan than your CPU cooler or at the very least the same fan running in sync with the CPU fan.
> 
> Another popular option is to set it as intake. Have done that myself too and noticed no difference.


So maybe a stronger exhaust fan? But that might be messing with the amount of dust I get in the case.... maybe I should leave well enough alone then.


----------



## Goa80

hi guys,

my brande new noctua NF-A14 PWM cant reach 1500 rpm, their max speed is 1340, everythig is properly set in bios, I set them at max speed but dont go beyong 1350 RPM, i am not using LNA for lower their speed, just the provided Y splitter cable.

I tried all avaialble fan header on my motherboard, i tried both PWM and DC modes, max RPM is 1344-1350.

I am thinking to RMA them...


----------



## doyll

Goa80 said:


> hi guys,
> 
> my brande new noctua NF-A14 PWM cant reach 1500 rpm, their max speed is 1340, everythig is properly set in bios, I set them at max speed but dont go beyong 1350 RPM, i am not using LNA for lower their speed, just the provided Y splitter cable.
> 
> I tried all avaialble fan header on my motherboard, i tried both PWM and DC modes, max RPM is 1344-1350.
> 
> I am thinking to RMA them...


You NF-A15 PWM fans with specification of 1500rpm +/-10% maximum speed which means their maxiimum speed between 1350rpm and 1650rpm .. yours are 1350rpm so at the bottom of the 1+/-10%, but withing specified maximum speed range.


----------



## Goa80

doyll said:


> You NF-A15 PWM fans with specification of 1500rpm +/-10% maximum speed which means their maxiimum speed between 1350rpm and 1650rpm .. yours are 1350rpm so at the bottom of the 1+/-10%, but withing specified maximum speed range.


thanks , yes i know they should operate +/- 10% but all the other noctua fans I have they all run at least at 1500 RPM....

they operate at about 200-250 rpm less , even when setting at max full speed, the average speed is abt 1230....I want best intake performance as the ractal r6 has takes the air from front panel side not from direct front...

a bit disappoined by this


----------



## ciarlatano

Goa80 said:


> thanks , yes i know they should operate +/- 10% but all the other noctua fans I have they all run at least at 1500 RPM....
> 
> they operate at about 200-250 rpm less , even when setting at max full speed, the average speed is abt 1230....I want best intake performance as the ractal r6 has takes the air from front panel side not from direct front...
> 
> a bit disappoined by this


You said you are using a splitter. Have you tried them individually on a header? And what MB are you using? I know a lot of Asrock's have fan control issues like this. Before you make a definite conclusion that the fans are the issue, best to rule out other possibilities. While it is in spec as @doyll stated, my experience with 40-50 Noctua fans has been the same as yours, always very close to rated rpm.


----------



## Goa80

ciarlatano said:


> You said you are using a splitter. Have you tried them individually on a header? And what MB are you using? I know a lot of Asrock's have fan control issues like this. Before you make a definite conclusion that the fans are the issue, best to rule out other possibilities. While it is in spec as @doyll stated, my experience with 40-50 Noctua fans has been the same as yours, always very close to rated rpm.


Hi,

I will try to run the fans one by one without the provided Y splitter cable, I am runnin an asrock z370 taichi, all the other fans which I have intalled runs perfectly at 1500 max rpm

edit: I have now the 2 NF-A14 plugged in 2 separete fan headers, one fan is running at 1290 , the otherone at 1340.....they are far from 1500 RPM.....
I also tried to run only 1 fan per time ( witt the other one disconnected) and I have the same results.


----------



## doyll

Goa80 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I will try to run the fans one by one without the provided Y splitter cable, I am runnin an asrock z370 taichi, all the other fans which I have intalled runs perfectly at 1500 max rpm
> 
> edit: I have now the 2 NF-A14 plugged in 2 separete fan headers, one fan is running at 1290 , the otherone at 1340.....they are far from 1500 RPM.....
> I also tried to run only 1 fan per time ( witt the other one disconnected) and I have the same results.


If you can try then on another system. Part of the reason for the 10% variance in speeds is the control / motherboard they are being ran on.


----------



## ehume

I'm confused. Are we talking about an NH-D15 with its two NF-A15's running at a nominal 1500 rpm? or are we talking about an NH-D14 PWM, with its round middle 14cm fan and its square front 12cm fan? (They supposedly run 1300 & 1200 rpm)

NF-A14 fans were made for big rads, but you can use them with a D14.


----------



## Goa80

ehume said:


> I'm confused. Are we talking about an NH-D15 with its two NF-A15's running at a nominal 1500 rpm? or are we talking about an NH-D14 PWM, with its round middle 14cm fan and its square front 12cm fan? (They supposedly run 1300 & 1200 rpm)
> 
> NF-A14 fans were made for big rads, but you can use them with a D14.


hi,
actually we were talking about the NOCTUA NF-A14 pwm fans which are supposed to run at 1500 but my pairs of fans can only reach 1350 rpm.

I am willing to RMA them with amazon i have time till august 15th, and I want to try the NF-A14 2000 or 3000 rpm, they both cost the same.
Of course I am not going to run them at full speed but as the are PWM I can manually set their speed/behaviour in bios or with external software like speedfan.

What do you guys think??As the NF-A 14 IPCC 2000 RPM has same cost of the 3000 RPM ,would you suggest buyin the 3000 rpm?


----------



## ciarlatano

Goa80 said:


> hi,
> actually we were talking about the NOCTUA NF-A14 pwm fans which are supposed to run at 1500 but my pairs of fans can only reach 1350 rpm.
> 
> I am willing to RMA them with amazon i have time till august 15th, and I want to try the NF-A14 2000 or 3000 rpm, they both cost the same.
> Of course I am not going to run them at full speed but as the are PWM I can manually set their speed/behaviour in bios or with external software like speedfan.
> 
> What do you guys think??As the NF-A 14 IPCC 2000 RPM has same cost of the 3000 RPM ,would you suggest buyin the 3000 rpm?


I will say this.....the iPPC fans are marketed as industrial fans, and behave like industrial fans. Their sound profile is _not_ the same as an NF-A14, and they do not sound alike at the same speed. Many, myself included, find the iPPC fans to be one of the most irritating sounding fans around at all speeds.


----------



## Goa80

ciarlatano said:


> I will say this.....the iPPC fans are marketed as industrial fans, and behave like industrial fans. Their sound profile is _not_ the same as an NF-A14, and they do not sound alike at the same speed. Many, myself included, find the iPPC fans to be one of the most irritating sounding fans around at all speeds.


well that's good point, i mean if they are iritating even a 1500 rpm I dont think I am gonna buy them, i could try another pair of same NF-A14 , what about using the NF-A15?


----------



## Melcar

Goa80 said:


> well that's good point, i mean if they are iritating even a 1500 rpm I dont think I am gonna buy them, i could try another pair of same NF-A14 , what about using the NF-A15?



The original retail NF-A15 goes to 1200rpm. They recently came out with a newer black version of the fan that apparently goes to 1500rpm. Mind their dimensions if you plan to use them as case fans. They may not fit properly depending on your case.


----------



## doyll

Melcar said:


> The original retail NF-A15 goes to 1200rpm. They recently came out with a newer black version of the fan that apparently goes to 1500rpm. Mind their dimensions if you plan to use them as case fans. They may not fit properly depending on your case.


Just to clarify, the NF-A15 on coolers are 1500rpm, but the retail baby poo brown NF-A15 are 1200rpm. As Melcar said, the new NF-A15 HS-PWM chromax are 1500rpm.


----------



## ehume

Goa80 said:


> hi,
> actually, we were talking about the NOCTUA NF-A14 PWM fans which are supposed to run at 1500 but my pairs of fans can only reach 1350 rpm.
> 
> . . .
> What do you guys think?? As the NF-A 14 IPCC 2000 RPM has the same cost as the 3000 RPM, would you suggest buying the 3000 rpm?


My review was just published at the other Overclockers (according to the rules I cannot link to my own article at another site). Look at the chart there.

Do not get 2 A14's for your D14: they are loud. Do not get 3000 rpm. They will howl (I have used them; they are loud). Stick with your current A14's on your D14. At 1500 rpm they only made 9 dBA (the original setup makes 8 dBA). If they go only 1350 rpm they should be much quieter. Again, look at the chart. It contains the fan rpm, the heatsink noise and the heatsink's net temps using Linpack with AVX2. I'm sure you won't be doing something quite so extreme.


----------



## MathKiller

Pair of A12x25 PWM on a Asus Strix GTX1080
Maximum temp is 50С at 1150 rpm.
Previous pair of F12PWM was 53C at same rpm, and much more noisy.


----------



## Brko

MathKiller said:


> Pair of A12x25 PWM on a Asus Strix GTX1080
> Maximum temp is 50С at 1150 rpm.
> Previous pair of F12PWM was 53C at same rpm, and much more noisy.


Little OT, but tell me, which PSU you have? Love those cables.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


----------



## MathKiller

Brko said:


> Little OT, but tell me, which PSU you have? Love those cables.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


Corsair HX750i, and Corsair Sleeved Cables kit.


----------



## asdkj1740

MathKiller said:


> Pair of A12x25 PWM on a Asus Strix GTX1080
> Maximum temp is 50С at 1150 rpm.
> Previous pair of F12PWM was 53C at same rpm, and much more noisy.


how to mount a12x25 on the heatsink?


----------



## MathKiller

asdkj1740 said:


> how to mount a12x25 on the heatsink?


Plastic cable ties


----------



## asdkj1740

MathKiller said:


> Plastic cable ties


would you mind sharing more photos of it? yours looks perfect.


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## MathKiller

asdkj1740 said:


> would you mind sharing more photos of it? yours looks perfect.


Attached more photos


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## asdkj1740

MathKiller said:


> Attached more photos


oh i see, there is a plate on the heatsink.
i was mounting nf-f12 on the heatsink directly by zip ties. sometimes it is hard to hold the fan in place firmly. yours looks like using screw to mount them.

nice job, decent aesthetics and performance!

i had few strix cards in the past, the asus strix fans are very quiet even at high rpm (>2000rpm), however at the same time it is very weak, barely feel the hot air pushing out from the top of the card. the new strix cooler is insanely good, but the strix fans limit the cooling performance.


----------



## MathKiller

I had two 1080 strix, and both had parasite noise from fans at low rpm


----------



## MathKiller

I nad two 1080 strix, and they had same problem - parasite noise from fans at low rpm. i had noctua F12 before, and they had parasite noise too. At 400-650 rpm.


----------



## NewType88

@MathKiller hey whats the height, from the bottom of the fan to to top of the GPU ?


----------



## NewType88

Edit, double posted, duuurp.


----------



## MathKiller

Closely to next pci-e port. For sli at need to change this fans to A12x15 PWM.


----------



## NewType88

MathKiller said:


> Closely to next pci-e port. For sli at need to change this fans to A12x15 PWM.


Was that to me ? I just wanna know the height, 25mm for the fan plus the thickness of the gpu.


----------



## MathKiller

NewType88 said:


> Was that to me ? I just wanna know the height, 25mm for the fan plus the thickness of the gpu.


25mm fan + about 30 mm radiator.


----------



## asdkj1740

https://www.chiphell.com/thread-1887764-1-1.html


----------



## AlphaC

https://www.overclock3d.net/news/ca...u_coolers_and_fans_are_ready_for_production/1


> Noctua is finally ready to start producing all-black CPU coolers, enabling their users to move away from the brand's iconic beige and silver aesthetic, to deliver something that's a lot more stealthy.


----------



## Darkbreeze

ciarlatano said:


> I will say this.....the iPPC fans are marketed as industrial fans, and behave like industrial fans. Their sound profile is _not_ the same as an NF-A14, and they do not sound alike at the same speed. Many, myself included, find the iPPC fans to be one of the most irritating sounding fans around at all speeds.


I have to say I disagree with this. I have NF-A14's and A14 iPPC 2000rpm fans. Several of each on the test bench and several in a modified Define S case. The Define S has all NF-A14 fans in all locations EXCEPT for the pull fan the U14S heatsink which also has an A14 on the front. The rear fan is curved to exceed the front fan by about 200 RPM, so it does not become a restriction for the front fan and with or without the side panel on I (And several others who've tried to determine where that fan was installed by listening) cannot tell any difference WHATSOEVER between the iPPC fan and the standard A14 fans EXCEPT when that fan exceeds 1500rpm. Then, and only then, does it become obvious that there is a fan with a different sound profile and higher RPM than the rest of the fans.

At 1500rpm or less I'm fully unconvinced that there is a discernible difference in the sound profile. And since that case sits next to me, about two foot away, for a good part of each day, I'd probably notice if there was.


----------



## Darkbreeze

AlphaC said:


> https://www.overclock3d.net/news/ca...u_coolers_and_fans_are_ready_for_production/1


Because computers are ninjas and need to be able to sneak up on people.


----------



## Melcar

I bet they will carry a premium too.

Sent from my Redmi 4A using Tapatalk


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## Darkbreeze

It's Noctua. It already carries a "premium". And there's a good reason for that.


----------



## Melcar

Darkbreeze said:


> It's Noctua. It already carries a "premium". And there's a good reason for that.



Noctua is very even price wise over here compared to other popular brands (sometimes cheaper, but those are regional pricing issues). But I was referring to the premium their Chromax line has. This line of coolers will no doubt have this same premium.


----------



## Vlada011

I don't have single case fan in PC-O11 WX.
Only 3 Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM on 360mm radiator (CPU-GPU)

Is it important to add only exhaust fan on back side.
I have one place for 80mm fan. And I think to buy these new Noctua 80x80x15mm Slim fans.

I still think that Noctua made big mistake because didn't offered NF-A12x25 PWM in Dark-Light Grey color scheme they use for Redux line would be most beautifull NF-A12x25 PWM.

But I like mine traditional NF-A12x25 PWM and I will not change them because they represent quality.
When you take a look how they test fan, testing methods, new material they used for blades you need to like them no matter on color scheme.
Some people decide to wait Black version, but original is good enough for me. I believe I will buy and 80mm in same color scheme.


----------



## SimonOcean

Vlada011 said:


> I don't have single case fan in PC-O11 WX.
> Only 3 Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM on 360mm radiator (CPU-GPU)
> 
> Is it important to add only exhaust fan on back side.
> I have one place for 80mm fan. And I think to buy these new Noctua 80x80x15mm Slim fans.
> 
> I still think that Noctua made big mistake because didn't offered NF-A12x25 PWM in Dark-Light Grey color scheme they use for Redux line would be most beautifull NF-A12x25 PWM.


Chromax (Black/grey) NF-A12x25 on their way. Unfortunately we need to wait until 2020/21 for them to hit market. Prototype photos already on the internet if you do a search.


----------



## Vlada011

I saw photos on internet, but I'm very satisfied with traditional. 
Their performance change my perspective for Noctua color scheme.
If grey show up, I will buy them for sure and 3 NF-A12x25 PWM I have will stay as reserve.

I believe NF-A12x25 PWM in different color version will be popular at least up to 2025. 
Because this was first time after Gently Typhoon who was breakthrough for 2008 that someone jump one level above.


----------



## Darkbreeze

There are NO gray standard performance fans. ONLY the Redux fans are that color and they do not perform as well as the standard or Chromax lines. I for one hope that Noctua would do away with that lineup entirely OR offer all the standard fans in that color scheme WITH the same performance characteristics. I've never seen the need or purpose of having those models, and I have many of them from that line for testing along with the other product lines as well. They are not significantly less expensive than the standard or Chromax lines, so they make no sense to me.


----------



## ehume

Darkbreeze said:


> . . . I for one hope that Noctua would do away with that lineup entirely OR offer all the standard fans in that color scheme WITH the same performance characteristics. I've never seen the need or purpose of having those models . . . they make no sense to me.


The NH-D14 is EOL, but people continue to buy it -- enough that Noctua still makes it. The only difference is that the redux line is gray. Those older fans continue to sell, so Noctua make them. They color the superseded fans only to distinguish them from the current line, which are either tan (Premium) or black (iPPC). 

I agree with you, but it doesn't matter if you or I think the current line is a better deal. As long as people buy the redux, Noctua will make them.


----------



## Darkbreeze

ehume said:


> The only difference is that the redux line is gray.


I get the sales and marketing aspect of it, but I have to say, that's actually not true. I'm not sure if I misunderstood you or if you misunderstood me, but the fact is that the Redux line of fans DON'T have the same specs as the standard and Chromax lines have. They are a reduced spec series although I do understand that they have a lower price, it's like having a four cylinder corvette.


----------



## ehume

Darkbreeze said:


> I get the sales and marketing aspect of it, but I have to say, that's actually not true. I'm not sure if I misunderstood you or if you misunderstood me, but the fact is that the Redux line of fans DON'T have the same specs as the standard and Chromax lines have. They are a reduced spec series although I do understand that they have a lower price, it's like having a four cylinder corvette.


They don't have the same specs because they are different fans. The redux fans used to be their Premium line. I bought what is now in grey when they were in beige and brown.

I bought those Premium fans before I was a reviewer. Noctua sent me pairs of their redux line to review. Because I threw nothing away, I was able to hold the old Premium and new redux fans in my hands to compare them. They were identical, except that the corners were changed to accommodate Chromax corners. I reviewed the NF-P12 on June 27, 2018, at the other Overclockers (I'd send you the link, but we are not allowed to do that). The fifth image shows the Premium P12 and the redux P12 together. Same fan. They differ from the NF A12x25, (the review was published June 20, 2018, at the same site).


----------



## Darkbreeze

Yeah, I knew they were different, but I guess it escaped me that those used to be the premium lineup before the A14, A14, F12, etc. Makes sense though. Thanks for the insight. I need to get over here more because there is a different TYPE of user and member here, more like peers for me, than dealing with the masses of knuckleheads (Not all, but most everybody at TH that isn't is either already a mod or has turned it down) at TH every day. 

Can actually have some conversations here with somebody that is more informed on some things than I am. Well, than I SOMETIMES am. LOL.


----------



## doyll

Below is link to site ehume does reviews for. 
https://www.overclockers.com/author/ehume/

Strange rule, but author of review can't post link to review, but another member can.


----------



## Darkbreeze

Yeah, I knew who it was and where they were from simply by the username. Thanks for that though doyll. We have similar rules we have enforce over at TH regarding self promotion, although you'd think that there would be a little bit of flexibility in that when it comes to the professionals, especially when they've previously been staff or freelance for the site in question. I think sometimes that corporate and community bean counters take this stuff a bit too far. I understand the need for some level of policing the self promotion of locations outside the forum in question, but sometimes it requires a common sense approach as well and let's face it, in terms of SEO, Google gives you PROPS for outside links, both inbound and outbound, to other sites that are focused on similar topic areas so long as they don't contain a lot of duplicate content of the other site. Obviously, that's to avoid creating mirrored sites and using each of them to provide inbound and outbound links to the other. Anyhow, way off topic now so I'll stop. I don't want to feed the fire.


----------



## doyll

I understand the problem. I test and review products myself, but it's just me with no website. I kept it that way so I can post whatever I've done on whatever computer forum I want to.


----------



## Darkbreeze

Makes sense.


----------



## amd955be5670

Currently my setup consists of 5 fans, as follows:

Intake: 2x 120mm Coolermaster MasterFan 120 Air Pressure
I went with these because my hdd cage is not removable, so I thought I might as well take something with very high pressure ratings. I currently keep them at 800~1800 (depending on cpu load)

Exhaust Side Panel: 1x 140mm Generic 24V DC fan (runs at 1k rpm max on 12v) I got this on a whim from AliExpress because I just absolutely wanted 140mm fans, it annoyed me to put 120mm fans in 140mm slots because it felt like it wasn't being used 100% (OCD?)

Top Exhaust: 1x 140mm Generic 24V DC fan (same as above)

Exhaust Rear: 1x 140m YateLoon D14BH-12 (800~2800rpm)
I pulled this off from my Corsair TX850V2 PSU. Its only 2pin, but I can still rpm control it in dc mode.

I currently have an NH-U14S in push pull config, only of them is chromax. Will probably get another Chromax, and the NH-U14S covers which may come later.

I was wondering if I should replace the rear with a Noctua NH-A14 iPPC 3k rpm fan. The YateLoon doesn't make much noise at the %s I use it (25~75). I imagine it spins 700~2240rpm. The generic 24v fans are surprisingly quiet. Intake fans kinda get noisy at 1800rpm+


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## ehume

amd955be5670 said:


> Currently my setup consists of 5 fans, as follows:
> 
> Intake: 2x 120mm Coolermaster MasterFan 120 Air Pressure
> I went with these because my hdd cage is not removable, so I thought I might as well take something with very high pressure ratings. I currently keep them at 800~1800 (depending on cpu load)
> 
> Exhaust Side Panel: 1x 140mm Generic 24V DC fan (runs at 1k rpm max on 12v) I got this on a whim from AliExpress because I just absolutely wanted 140mm fans, it annoyed me to put 120mm fans in 140mm slots because it felt like it wasn't being used 100% (OCD?)
> 
> Top Exhaust: 1x 140mm Generic 24V DC fan (same as above)
> 
> Exhaust Rear: 1x 140m YateLoon D14BH-12 (800~2800rpm)
> I pulled this off from my Corsair TX850V2 PSU. Its only 2pin, but I can still rpm control it in dc mode.
> 
> I currently have an NH-U14S in push pull config, only of them is chromax. Will probably get another Chromax, and the NH-U14S covers which may come later.
> 
> I was wondering if I should replace the rear with a Noctua NH-A14 iPPC 3k rpm fan. The YateLoon doesn't make much noise at the %s I use it (25~75). I imagine it spins 700~2240rpm. The generic 24v fans are surprisingly quiet. Intake fans kinda get noisy at 1800rpm+


Noise sensitive. For the best exhaust with the lowest noise: cut out your rear "grill." Then leave the inside air to exhaust itself with no impediments and no additional exhaust fan. Why do I say "additional?" Because the pull fan on your NH-U14S will exhaust your case. Don't believe it? Look at item 2 in my sig.

In my current rig I run two NF-A14 ULN fans in front for intake. My systems monitor tells me they run about 750 rpm. The Armageddon heatsink sports two NF-A15 PWMs. That's it. Very quiet. No exhaust fan to add its noise.


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