# How-To: Rivets - Removing and Replacing



## repo_man

I've seen a few posts on what they are, how you remove them, replace them, etc around the past week or so so heres a quick little post on rivets guys. Hope this helps anyone wanting (or thinking about) taking their case apart or affixing new peices. This post was taken and tweaked from my current build log. Hope this is helpful to someone!









*First, a rivet before it is used and how it works.*








These are the rivets you'll find in PC cases, pop-rivets. (In this picture) the top part above the 'head' is the actual rivet. The long piece behind that is what the rivet gun clamps onto. It pulls this rod down (or up, however you look at it) to the 'head' The end of the rod is larger than the sleeve of the rivet, thus making it buldge or split as the rod is pulled. This swells the rivet larger than the hole and holds the pieces you are riveting together. I found a good .gif of this. With the rivet gun.









Here you can see a rivet gun and the rivet. It pulls the rod into the 'sleeve' of the rivet and pulls the pieces tight. Once the rivet is tight the end of the rob breaks off and you are left with what you see on your case.









Just a quick cut-away of the used rivet.









So thats what is left. Just the top of the rivet and the bulged out bottom.

*Removing rivets*

To take a rivet off you simply find a drill bit a little larger than the hole in the head. All you are actually doing is drilling the head of the rivet off, thus in turn the back falls of and the pieces you are de-riveting is free.









Here you can see me drilling the head out. Also on the bit is a previously drilled rivet head. Don't worry, they always stick on the drill-bit like that,lol. Just take a pair are pliers, grip the leftover heads, and reverse the drill. Nice clean bit again!









Now we've drilled through the head and the bit actually (generally will) push the back half of the rivet off.









One clean hole ready for a new rivet!









And here is a rivet gun and rivet. Just put the new rivet in the hole, slide the gun over the top (the rod that sticks out) and clamp the handle down. You'll probably have to clamp it twice, just let the handle go, slide the gun down again, and regrip the handle. The gun has a pair of 'teeth' in the top and grips the rod and pulls it, thats how it works.

And if you don't have a tivet gun and want to grab one for yourself and your future modding, pop-rivet gun kits can be purchased from McMaster-Carr from $34.74 USD with a 200 piece assortment of rivets at http://www.mcmaster.com/ search for item number *6659A23*









If you have any questions feel free to post here and me or some of the more advanced modders will be happy to help!


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## legoman786

This is a fine tutorial to those who can't remove rivets lol


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## repo_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *legoman786* 
This is a fine tutorial to those who can't remove rivets lol

Thanks


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## noobdown

can you use rivits on say the glass for a side window with out it breaking?


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## repo_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noobdown* 
can you use rivits on say the glass for a side window with out it breaking?

I haven't personally used them for that (maybe someone who has can pitch in?) but I'd try it on a spare piece of acrylic first.

I'm just guessing/assuming that if the acrylic was >3/8" thick it would hold up and not crack. But I would def try a rivet on a spare piece first.
(Personally, double sided tape works just as good [if not better] and can't be seen. Or screws, but thats just my .02)

Someone who has used them for this??


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## hiiyah777

Not that my vote really matters, but I vote sticky. Rep+!


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## burrbit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hiiyah777* 
Not that my vote really matters, but I vote sticky. Rep+!

agreed.

this is actually what i needed too, cause i was planning on taking apart a case to paint it, and didnt really know the steps of reriveting a case.

bravo!


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## dthmtlhed

Whats the usual size for PC pop-rivets?


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## repo_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hiiyah777* 
Not that my vote really matters, but I vote sticky. Rep+!

Thanks man!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *burrbit* 
agreed.

this is actually what i needed too, cause i was planning on taking apart a case to paint it, and didnt really know the steps of reriveting a case.

bravo!









Glad this helped then!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *dthmtlhed* 
Whats the usual size for PC pop-rivets?

*IIRC* I used a 1/8" rivet on my current build. I know for a fact I used a 9/64" drill-bit to drill them out.


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## fstfrddy

They come in various sizes in steel, brass, aluminum and copper. If you are going to use them to mount acrylic use a backing washer and soft aluminum rivets to help prevent splitting.


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## repo_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fstfrddy* 
They come in various sizes in steel, brass, aluminum and copper. If you are going to use them to mount acrylic use a backing washer and soft aluminum rivets to help prevent splitting.

+







Thanks for the extra info and tip!

Also, you can buy _plastic_ rivets as well, I've only seen them used on car bumpers/trim pieces etc, but they could work with acrylic as well. You have to buy a separate rivet gun for the plastic ones though...


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## IcedEarth

Yea aluminum are the way to go. Anything other than that on PC cases is a bit OTT. Aluminium are usually the cheapest.

I have a lot fo experience in removing rivets







Solid and hollow. And let me tell you this, at least hollow ones are the easiest to remove







However not the most aesthetically pleasing (subject to opinion of course)

Nice guide rep +


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## hiiyah777

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fstfrddy* 
They come in various sizes in steel, brass, aluminum and copper. If you are going to use them to mount acrylic use a backing washer and soft aluminum rivets to help prevent splitting.

Excellent tip, rep+!!!


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## prosser13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noobdown* 
can you use rivits on say the glass for a side window with out it breaking?

I know someone who uses 3mm acrylic and rivets and hasn't had any problems, but definitely test it out.

Good guide, might need to use it in a few years if my memory gets any worse


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## h33b

I was wondering how these worked the other days, great guide!! +cookie!


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## Cr4zYH3aD

i learned something today !


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## repo_man

Looks like this was a nice thing to post, wasn't sure that so many modders needed the info! Glad I could help


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## cuy50

I sure am glad that my father has worked in construction, and pretty much every manual labor job you can imagine...He is very handy! Then again, I'll make a sad excuse for a man when I grow up considering how I never bother to learn these kinds of things.

What I have been wondering though is what is the benefit of a rivet. I mean, screws are easy to remove and replace, so I can't see any advantages. Sure rivets may be stronger but honestly what are you doing with your PC case that you need rivets?


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## repo_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cuy50* 
I sure am glad that my father has worked in construction, and pretty much every manual labor job you can imagine...He is very handy! Then again, I'll make a sad excuse for a man when I grow up considering how I never bother to learn these kinds of things.

What I have been wondering though is what is the benefit of a rivet. I mean, screws are easy to remove and replace, so I can't see any advantages. Sure rivets may be stronger but honestly what are you doing with your PC case that you need rivets?

I'm assuming the reason for using them in PC case is during mainstream production rivets are faster. They can be installed much faster than nuts/bolts and PC companies generally (im assuming) don't plan on people (like us







) taking their cases apart. So rivets are a fast, cheap, solution.


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## prosser13

Plus they don't come undone as bolts do when there is vibration


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## CattleRustler

plus the shallower head profile


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## onlycodered

Great tutorial! Will come in handy in the future. Your guide has been del.icio.us'd!


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## CyberDruid

RE acrylic panels and rivets You can attach the thinnest panels with them: just use a Nylon washer between rivet head and acrylic panel. What will break the acrylic is trying to expand the rivet into the acrylic: then use a backing washer as fstfrddy posted.


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## wastedtime

Awesome how-to.. Helps newbies like me +rep


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## froggy_newb

Quote:


Originally Posted by *prosser13* 
Plus they don't come undone as bolts do when there is vibration









that's what locking washers are for.


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## repo_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy_newb* 
that's what locking washers are for.

Which would only add price to the assembly.
One rivet *vs* one lock washer+one bolt+one nut.









*Hope that didn't come off as smart-allec*


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## phillipjos

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noobdown* 
can you use rivits on say the glass for a side window with out it breaking?

not recomended unless u use plastic over sized washers,imo


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## xHassassin

I used a high speed stationary drill to remove my rivets, and since it was high speed, it didn't cut into the pre-made hole, and instead cut another hole, making the original hole like oval like.
Should've stayed with my hand drill.


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## froggy_newb

Quote:


Originally Posted by *repo_man* 
Which would only add price to the assembly.
One rivet *vs* one lock washer+one bolt+one nut.









*Hope that didn't come off as smart-allec*









ah yes, but what shall be the price be for a rivet gun + rivets? one could look at it as rivet gun+rivets+dip gauge vs _reusable_ nuts+bolts (washers are used only in certain applications)+a screwdriver. hell, if you were really desperate for money, you drop the nuts and buy a tap. should someone say they do not have a screwdriver; they are not human!!!

nuts and bolts can serve be better off depending on . mainly because they are very universal and ever-lasting. besides, if you would mess up, you can redo the process without wasting any materials. and depending on your skills, flat heads with countersunk holes can be very concealing and sleek looking.

don't get me wrong, i like rivets and i use them in many applications. for instance, when i made the frame for my case from scratch sheet metal, i used rivets to attach pieces together. _OOPS!!_ shhh..

however my perspective differs from many here, as my supply of bolts, rivets, nuts, washers, sheet metal, sheet metal bending, welding, pneumatic tools, drill presses etc etc are at plenty. here's just my 10-32 and 8-32 titanium screw collection.









if i need any length i can get it. maybe i should start selling supplies here. unfortunately for me and other OCNers, the rep restrictions say otherwise.


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## d3daiM

Easy as pie.

An excellent compilation my friend.

A+ and rep


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## repo_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *froggy_newb* 
should someone say they do not have a screwdriver; they are not human!!!

That made me lol, I agree!

I don't know what type (or how much) a 'professional' gun would be, like the pneumatic ones however.


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## Cerberus

i bought my Box of 50 steel rivets for $4.99 + tax
and my gun from walmart for $10.99


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## CattleRustler

Hey Repo I got my rivet gun yesterday, its a Marson just like in your pics







I guess your neighbor and I ordered it from McMaster-Carr, as it looks to be the same exact kit, or very nearly identical. Ill post pics later on when I do some more work to my daughters case


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## Chosen

all I do is sharpen a flathead screw driver and chisle them off with a hammer.


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## repo_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cerberus* 
i bought my Box of 50 steel rivets for $4.99 + tax
and my gun from walmart for $10.99

I have never seen rivet guns in the Wally-worlds around here. Wow, I guess I'll have to look in the "Mega/Super/ZOMG/Wal-Mart in the larger city upstate.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *CattleRustler* 
Hey Repo I got my rivet gun yesterday, its a Marson just like in your pics







I guess your neighbor and I ordered it from McMaster-Carr, as it looks to be the same exact kit, or very nearly identical. Ill post pics later on when I do some more work to my daughters case

Awesome-sauce Rustler! I'm not sure where my neighbor got his honestly, I'm guessing from the Snap-On dealer around here, he gets alot of tools from there (tax rebates for him, he works collision repair). I'll be on my sub'd list waiting for your thread to pop up!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chosen* 
all I do is sharpen a flathead screw driver and chisle them off with a hammer.

Lol, hey, whatever works!


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## NrGx

Rep+, I never understood this stuff and now I do.


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## CattleRustler

Repo

I had to re-rivet the case lid back on yesterday to add stability to the chasis because I had another hole to drill out for a switch on back. The pop rivet gun works a treat








oh and btw, its a Marsen HP-2, just like the one you had. I tried 2 aluminum rivets, and 2 steel rivets, all 1/8. While the aluminum ones required less force to pop than the steel, they tended not to squash down flat on the blind side, where the steel ones popped very flush. me likes steel. I did take a few pics, but nothing worth posting as a separate update in my thread. the pics will be included in the next update later on today, since I have some more steel cutting, and bezel sanding stuff to do today.


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## repo_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CattleRustler* 
Repo

I had to re-rivet the case lid back on yesterday to add stability to the chasis because I had another hole to drill out for a switch on back. The pop rivet gun works a treat







oh and btw, its a Marsen HP-2, just like the one you had. I tried 2 aluminum rivets, and 2 steel rivets, all 1/8. While the aluminum ones required less force to pop than the steel, they tended not to squash down flat on the blind side, where the steel ones popped very flush. me likes steel. I did take a few pics, but nothing worth posting as a separate update in my thread. the pics will be included in the next update later on today, since I have some more steel cutting, and bezel sanding stuff to do today.

I prefer the steel ones myself (at least with my minimal experience with them).







Glad you're making headway, I guess I need to get back to work on mine,lol.


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## repo_man

Figured I would bump this. Its summer for most of us and quite a few new mod logs have been started!

Happy modding everyone!


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## CattleRustler

word of caution

if riveting painted parts that you dont want to scratch, protect the area around the rivet with some masking tape (blue painters tape, a couple layers). The gun can jump on the pop and marr your paint. I did exactly this on my Gumdrop build. Easily fixable and in an inconspicuous area so I got lucky.

I am going to make a template out of some thin plastic to use as a protective sheet, basically a sheet of plastic with a hole in it, so I can rivet in peace

warned


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## repo_man

Another bump for the new mod's out there. Chop those things up guys!!


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## dpsizzle

Nice post Repo, I was just about to ask somebody what to do about all the frickin rivets in my new case


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## repo_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpsizzle* 
Nice post Repo, I was just about to ask somebody what to do about all the frickin rivets in my new case









Lol, glad I could be of service


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## adidasfreek

So I am putting back together an Antec 900.

Do I need to get 1/8 diameter? What about the grip range?

What is the best to buy? Aluminum or steel? or Aluminum with a steel mandrel?

HELP!


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## repo_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *adidasfreek* 
So I am putting back together an Antec 900.

Do I need to get 1/8 diameter? What about the grip range?

What is the best to buy? Aluminum or steel? or Aluminum with a steel mandrel?

HELP!

Yea, 1/8" dia. Not sure on the grip, *IIRC* mine were 1/8" grip.









I would also go with steel personally.


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## adidasfreek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *repo_man* 
Yea, 1/8" dia. Not sure on the grip, *IIRC* mine were 1/8" grip.









I would also go with steel personally.

Wouldn't happen to know where I could find a 1/8 black?

and is that all steel?


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## repo_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *adidasfreek* 
Wouldn't happen to know where I could find a 1/8 black?

and is that all steel?

Hrm, black.....no, can't say I do







Check mcmaster.com though, they usually have _everything_ a modder could ever want,lol.


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## cathode

I painted my rivets flat black with regular spray paint. However, the few test rivets i've done on scrap pieces have resulted in the nose of the rivet gun scratching off the paint on the rivet.

My planned solution today when i'm at home depot is to pick up a few nylon or maybe neoprene washers and glue them to the nose of the rivet gun, that should protect both the rivet and the surrounding area from scratches.

Also, i'm using steel rivets, 1/8 dia by 1/8 grip, from home depot. I was going to use aluminum but a box of 50 aluminum rivets was about $5.75 and for some reason they had 2 SKUs for steel rivets on clearance, so i got 2 boxes of these steel rivets for $3.60/ea (100/box).

If i need to paint any more rivets i'll likely use a primer designed for metal to improve adhesion of paint.


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## repo_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cathode* 
I painted my rivets flat black with regular spray paint. However, the few test rivets i've done on scrap pieces have resulted in the nose of the rivet gun scratching off the paint on the rivet.

My planned solution today when i'm at home depot is to pick up a few nylon or maybe neoprene washers and glue them to the nose of the rivet gun, that should protect both the rivet and the surrounding area from scratches.

Also, i'm using steel rivets, 1/8 dia by 1/8 grip, from home depot. I was going to use aluminum but a box of 50 aluminum rivets was about $5.75 and for some reason they had 2 SKUs for steel rivets on clearance, so i got 2 boxes of these steel rivets for $3.60/ea (100/box).

If i need to paint any more rivets i'll likely use a primer designed for metal to improve adhesion of paint.

Thanks for the info!

And that's a great deal on the rivets! I have to go buy some more this week for my own build, might check out the local Home Depot


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## cathode

The HD SKU is 600-369 for the rivets I got. Next time you are in you can just ask the service desk to check the on-hand for that SKU. It should be clearance at all home depots, but sometimes the different regions have different SKUs, I'm in western region.

Happy riveting.

P.S. To people asking about screws vs rivets: With screws you either need to have threaded material to go into, or you need a nut on the other side, which means you have to be able to fit your fingers there. Pop rivets (also called blind rivets), require only one piece and do not require that the other side is accessible, due to their design. They are also extremely cheap compared to threaded fasteners.

And as someone also said, screws are susceptible to vibration damage, rivets are mechanically inert.


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## CorryBasler

Nice guide! Thank you


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## FairladyZ32

This guide is GREATLY appreciated. I had my mobo die on me recently (well, I thought I did..got it working again now ^^), and I decided to go buy some paint to try to paint my CM 690. Well, I had no idea what rivets are (I'm not much of a handyman...don't have the tools nor the space), so I tried several allen wrenches, odd bits, etc, and got frustrated because it just looks like a damn circle. Yes, I was ignorant.

But no longer! I will triumph over these rivets and get my first painted case out of it =) I've already tested a couple different color schemes, and I think I picked one I like...I'll make a case log soon ^^

After the painting step, I need to learn how to work with acrylic to make a nice side panel, and plans to etch it....I'm excited. =)


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## repo_man

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cathode*


The HD SKU is 600-369 for the rivets I got. Next time you are in you can just ask the service desk to check the on-hand for that SKU. It should be clearance at all home depots, but sometimes the different regions have different SKUs, I'm in western region.

Happy riveting.

P.S. To people asking about screws vs rivets: With screws you either need to have threaded material to go into, or you need a nut on the other side, which means you have to be able to fit your fingers there. Pop rivets (also called blind rivets), require only one piece and do not require that the other side is accessible, due to their design. They are also extremely cheap compared to threaded fasteners.

And as someone also said, screws are susceptible to vibration damage, rivets are mechanically inert.










Thanks for the extra info!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CorryBasler*


Nice guide! Thank you


You're welcome!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *FairladyZ32*


This guide is GREATLY appreciated. I had my mobo die on me recently (well, I thought I did..got it working again now ^^), and I decided to go buy some paint to try to paint my CM 690. Well, I had no idea what rivets are (I'm not much of a handyman...don't have the tools nor the space), so I tried several allen wrenches, odd bits, etc, and got frustrated because it just looks like a damn circle. Yes, I was ignorant.

But no longer! I will triumph over these rivets and get my first painted case out of it =) I've already tested a couple different color schemes, and I think I picked one I like...I'll make a case log soon ^^

After the painting step, I need to learn how to work with acrylic to make a nice side panel, and plans to etch it....I'm excited. =)


Go Fairlady! (I have a turbo Z31 I'm rebuilding myself







) Glad this guide helped you!


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## cathode

More info for those who wish to paint their rivets...

This applies more to steel than aluminum rivets, but make sure you use a primer designed to adhere to metal exceptionally well, such as an automotive primer. Once the primer is cured enough for the color coats to go on, make sure you coat evenly and with multiple thin coats. Then take the cure time for full cure that is specified by the mfg, and double it. After twice the suggested cure time is when i achieved best results.

You should always be prepared for paint to chip or scrape off around the head of the rivet. One trick I've found is that when the rivet is nearly ready to snap, exert force on the rivet gun away from the workpiece (like you're trying to pull it away, parallel to the rivet itself. This way, when the rivet finally breaks (pops), your tool won't skip on the rivet head or on the surrounding area.


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## CudaBoy71

Great tutorial..Thanks for the added paint steps cathode.


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## mr. biggums

i should say be careful drilling the rivets i have had the bits snap on me before while doing this


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## Mercyflush64

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cathode*


More info for those who wish to paint their rivets...

This applies more to steel than aluminum rivets, but make sure you use a primer designed to adhere to metal exceptionally well, such as an automotive primer. Once the primer is cured enough for the color coats to go on, make sure you coat evenly and with multiple thin coats. Then take the cure time for full cure that is specified by the mfg, and double it. After twice the suggested cure time is when i achieved best results.

You should always be prepared for paint to chip or scrape off around the head of the rivet. One trick I've found is that when the rivet is nearly ready to snap, exert force on the rivet gun away from the workpiece (like you're trying to pull it away, parallel to the rivet itself. This way, when the rivet finally breaks (pops), your tool won't skip on the rivet head or on the surrounding area.


Modeling paints are your friend! Hobby stores, crafting stores will carry a wide assortment of colors and the fine brushes needed to take care of any little nick you may get. With some of my old time skills remembered I may even give some rivets that weathered look I used to give my old tank models.


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## ModMinded

Off on a tangent to this excellent, informative thread:
An interesting cousin to the pop (blind) rivet are threaded inserts aka rivet nuts. 
They attach the same as a regular rivet but have threads inside which allows you to screw into and remove (not the rivet, but the screw) in the future. They're great if you want to have a bolt into something that is pretty thin.
Here's a link to the first result off google, I'm sure there are other places that carry them and the gun. (It requires a slightly different setup in terms of the gun... I bought a cheap 3in1 kit from Harbor Freight that is a bit clunky, but allows me to switch between regular rivets and threadserts.)
http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet47.htm


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## repo_man

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ModMinded*


Off on a tangent to this excellent, informative thread:
An interesting cousin to the pop (blind) rivet are threaded inserts aka rivet nuts. 
They attach the same as a regular rivet but have threads inside which allows you to screw into and remove (not the rivet, but the screw) in the future. They're great if you want to have a bolt into something that is pretty thin.
Here's a link to the first result off google, I'm sure there are other places that carry them and the gun. (It requires a slightly different setup in terms of the gun... I bought a cheap 3in1 kit from Harbor Freight that is a bit clunky, but allows me to switch between regular rivets and threadserts.)
http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet47.htm


Oh sweet! I've seen threaded inserts but never threaded rivets. PM this week and I'll add that to the OP. I prob won't have time this weekend. Thanks for adding that M2M









Btw, you should fill out your system specs!


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## GhostRiderZG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *adidasfreek*


Wouldn't happen to know where I could find a 1/8 black?

and is that all steel?


I found black but only in aluminum: http://www.mcmaster.com/#97530a402/=m36aq

I like the red or yellow ones.


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## repo_man

Bump for the upcoming spring modding season.


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## Sno

So I have a question about rivets.

I need some black rivets and noticed MDPC sells some black rivets and claim that when riveted the paint won't tear.

Are these worth the price? Can others be bought with the same performance and price?

I'm going to be ordering some sleeving from them this week so I figured I might as well get them there.

Thanks in advance.


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## repo_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sno* 
So I have a question about rivets.

I need some black rivets and noticed MDPC sells some black rivets and claim that when riveted the paint won't tear.

Are these worth the price? Can others be bought with the same performance and price?

I'm going to be ordering some sleeving from them this week so I figured I might as well get them there.

Thanks in advance.

Some people have used MDCP's colored rivets around here. While I haven't heard anything bad about them I don't have any experience with them. Ask Bastiaan_NL, I know he bought some for his Black and White build.


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## Buzinga

man a life saver thanks


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## repo_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Buzinga* 
man a life saver thanks

No problem Buz.


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## r!g!dRoo$tEURr

just the info i was looking for, now i', off to buy a "gun"

thanks! +rep


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## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r¡g¡dRºº$t€r;13021826*
> just the info i was looking for, now i', off to buy a "gun"
> 
> thanks! +rep


Glad it helped man!


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## kaseyfleming

I picked up some of these rivets for a mod I'm working on. These are threaded 6-32








so you don't have to use a bolt (if you can't get to the other side) or regular rivet. They require a special rivet gun and the rivets are called rivet nuts i believe. hope this helps some people


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## repo_man

^^^VERY cool!







Thanks for posting that!


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## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786;3932232*
> This is a fine tutorial to those who can't remove rivets lol


Really?


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## Buska103

My HAF932 is steel construction.

Are the rivets also steel?
Or are they the common aluminum?


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## repo_man

Not sure, there is a HAF thread in the case section. They might know. Either way, I don't think it would matter.


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## Krahe

Quick question, how do I go about removing the rivets when the round side is inaccessible? Do I just use a grinder to grind off the flanged stub? Thought I'd ask in case I'm going about it the hard way.

ty


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## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krähe;13999087*
> Quick question, how do I go about removing the rivets when the round side is inaccessible? Do I just use a grinder to grind off the flanged stub? Thought I'd ask in case I'm going about it the hard way.
> 
> ty


Yea, you can grind the backside off ("the stub") or you can try a pair of wirecutters (aka dikes) to snip it off. Though using the dikes kind of depends on if the rivet is steel or aluminum, lol.


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## Krahe

ty, cutters worked very well, still had to grind but made it much easier.


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## MKHunt

So I read the thread and it looks like people haven't found a satisfactory black steel rivet without painting. I'm a bit of a gun nut and in the firearm world, a chemical process called "bluing" is often used to turn steel midnight black. Several companies make DIY bluing kits and I imagine they'd work on rivets.

The gloss and color of the finished product can be altered with different methods of prep work. A high gloss prep will yield a deep black/purple/blue, and a rough prep will leave it more nearly flat black.

You could probably clean the rivets, put some bluing in a plastic watertight container, add the rivets, shake, and be done with turning them black. Considering that bluing is used on hunting rifles that get toted around the mountains, fall in dirt and mud, and rub against clothing and rests all the time I'd say that bluing can be pretty tough stuff, too.

I don't have any rivets to try it out on myself, but I just thought I'd throw that out there. HTH


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## jenmendoza143

Nice detailed guideline you have there...Thank you for sharing it to us.


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## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt;14048042*
> So I read the thread and it looks like people haven't found a satisfactory black steel rivet without painting. I'm a bit of a gun nut and in the firearm world, a chemical process called "bluing" is often used to turn steel midnight black. Several companies make DIY bluing kits and I imagine they'd work on rivets.
> 
> The gloss and color of the finished product can be altered with different methods of prep work. A high gloss prep will yield a deep black/purple/blue, and a rough prep will leave it more nearly flat black.
> 
> You could probably clean the rivets, put some bluing in a plastic watertight container, add the rivets, shake, and be done with turning them black. Considering that bluing is used on hunting rifles that get toted around the mountains, fall in dirt and mud, and rub against clothing and rests all the time I'd say that bluing can be pretty tough stuff, too.
> 
> I don't have any rivets to try it out on myself, but I just thought I'd throw that out there. HTH


Cool! Thanks for sharing that; I've never heard of it.


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## joarangoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt;14048042*
> So I read the thread and it looks like people haven't found a satisfactory black steel rivet without painting. I'm a bit of a gun nut and in the firearm world, a chemical process called "bluing" is often used to turn steel midnight black. Several companies make DIY bluing kits and I imagine they'd work on rivets.
> 
> The gloss and color of the finished product can be altered with different methods of prep work. A high gloss prep will yield a deep black/purple/blue, and a rough prep will leave it more nearly flat black.
> 
> You could probably clean the rivets, put some bluing in a plastic watertight container, add the rivets, shake, and be done with turning them black. Considering that bluing is used on hunting rifles that get toted around the mountains, fall in dirt and mud, and rub against clothing and rests all the time I'd say that bluing can be pretty tough stuff, too.
> 
> I don't have any rivets to try it out on myself, but I just thought I'd throw that out there. HTH


Wouldn't all that work be messed up when pressing the rivet in its place? It deforms during placement and the presure of the rivet gun would leave new metal uncovered.

Just my thoughts... anyway OP, thanks for the guide, will definately help me on my mod.


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## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joarangoe;14062575*
> Wouldn't all that work be messed up when pressing the rivet in its place? It deforms during placement and the presure of the rivet gun would leave new metal uncovered.


I didn't think about the deformation initially. I also didn't take into account the possible penetration (or lack thereof) of the bluing agent into the rivet body. I was at Home Depot to buy a pressure tank and bought some steel rivets so I tried it out.

I used Birchwood Casey Perma Blue and just let a drop slide down the shaft. A little shaking and a minute later, black rivet! I was also reminded how bad Perma Blue smells. BC recommends you let the steel sit under the solution for a minute, rinse thoroughly, then let cure for 24 hours. I was impatient about the curing so I let it sit in the solution for ~1.5 minutes and let it cure for about 45 seconds before riveting into a plastic bag. This stuff is aggressive. If you leave it on too long it will actually eat at the metal and lift some of the bluing, leaving the rivet a gunmetal grey with some darker areas. Be sure to rinse _thoroughly_ after bluing. Bluing, like most other things, has a learning curve. It's pretty simple though, so getting good results shouldn't be hard. You can also get a deeper/darker blue by cleaning then bluing again.

Penetration was a bit of a problem as can be seen on the shaft part. The pressure from the gun also discolored it slightly. Less than I expected, but it's still a bit discolored. My only good camera is in Nova Scotia on a sailboat, so my cellphone had to do. I tried to balance the incandescent bulbs with the screen blueness, but it didn't really work. Sorry









View attachment 217758


This picture really is super awful, but hopefully it will give you an idea of the color and discoloration. And yes, my computer is dirty and my buttons are worn









If you decide to blue things, consider doing multiple coats. The first coat may get it dark, but it will scratch about like paint (though it won't crack like paint, since it penetrates the steel itself). When I blue magazines (lots of scraping against other steel) I usually use 5-7 coats or more. But if you're careful 1 or 2 should be fine. YMMV. Sorry for the long post, I tend to just keep on typing.


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## howtofromhere

Wow, Thanks bunches. Removing the solar screens on the windows. The ones with screws I figured em all out. As a female and looking at the way the sliding door was done put me into WHAT IS THIS AND HOW DO I GET IT OFF. We ladies love pictures and your post was awesome. I easily :GOT IT" Thank you so much. Have a great day.


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## thaares

is there any other way of removing them except drilling. you see i have zalman z11 plus case and i want to remove hdd cage which is fixed by very small rivets and i dont have drill small enough to maneuver inside of the cage


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## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thaares*
> 
> is there any other way of removing them except drilling. you see i have zalman z11 plus case and i want to remove hdd cage which is fixed by very small rivets and i dont have drill small enough to maneuver inside of the cage


A drill is the fastest/easiest way. However, anything you can use to remove the head of the rivet will work. I suppose in a tight spot you could use a file to file off the head. I've also used wire-cutters to cut the heads off. Alternately, sometimes you can cut the rivet on the bottom side and pull the rest out by the head.


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## Jhereg10

Hope this isn't considered an ill-advised necro...

Has anyone used rivets that have prepainted heads? Will the paint on these survive installation of the rivet?

Are there pros and cons to all-aluminum vs aluminum and steel?

Is 1/8 grip preferred for computer case use?

Any preferred suppliers?

Any advice appreciated.


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## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jhereg10*
> 
> Hope this isn't considered an ill-advised necro...
> 
> Has anyone used rivets that have prepainted heads? Will the paint on these survive installation of the rivet?
> 
> Are there pros and cons to all-aluminum vs aluminum and steel?
> 
> Is 1/8 grip preferred for computer case use?
> 
> Any preferred suppliers?
> 
> Any advice appreciated.


Never a bad necro!







I'll answer these in order as best I can.









I haven't used pre-painted, but I know people who have. They seem do stand up pretty well.

Never noticed, or know of, any reason to go all aluminum or not. Maybe there's a difference for other applications, but I think for just holding PC parts together, I'd go with whichever is cheapest.

I use whatever size fits. I just have an assorted box of sizes and grab what works (which leads to the next question)...

I bought an assorted box at Harbor Freight, which is local for me. But honestly, I say just shop around any home improvement or hardware stores in town and buy whatever they have. No need to special order them online. I'd say grab an assorted box like me. That way, if you need shorter or longer ones, you already have them.


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## Jhereg10

I thank you. Can't find painted rivets locally, so I'll probably order from ADPRivet. They seem to have a decent selection of colors.


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## davidm71

So whats best way to remove a metal riivet when you cant fit a drill inside a drive bay for example?

thanks


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## ladcrooks

You just gave me an idea for a case - i fancy one made out of steel with rivets showing and add a bit of patina would look like kind of groovy. A bit like that hot rod show in the usa wher they show bare metal ...

Steel is better than ali for noise/vibration its heavier i grant you, any man can lift a few pounds of the floor unless medically unable to.

Use an old case as a template - i'm gonna look into this a bit deeper


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## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> So whats best way to remove a metal riivet when you cant fit a drill inside a drive bay for example?
> 
> thanks


A few ways. Really, you just need whatever you can use to break/cut/snap the head off. I've used wire-cutters to snip the back off, screwdrivers to pry the head off, or a dremel/cutoff tool to separate them before.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ladcrooks*
> 
> You just gave me an idea for a case - i fancy one made out of steel with rivets showing and add a bit of patina would look like kind of groovy. A bit like that hot rod show in the usa wher they show bare metal ...
> 
> Steel is better than ali for noise/vibration its heavier i grant you, any man can lift a few pounds of the floor unless medically unable to.
> 
> Use an old case as a template - i'm gonna look into this a bit deeper


Would be cool!


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## davidm71

Used a flat screw driver and hammer. Did the trick. Thanks.


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## repo_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> Used a flat screw driver and hammer. Did the trick. Thanks.


Nice!







:thumb:


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## Carniflex

Good information in here. Subbed


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## Semitangible

Thanks for the guide, man!

I have a Corsair Carbide Air 540 I got used. A friend of a friend was gonna toss out, and this guide is perfect for me. I wanted to give it a second shot at life; such a pretty case deserves more than a trash heap.

He must have dropped something on the fans, though, because the metal deformed in multiple places - I'll have to derivet the case and pound out the creasing and bending to get it true again before I start modding it.


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