# Asus P5N32-E Overclocking Guide



## Robilar

Here is the 6th image, Over voltage screen. Bear in mind that this is near maxed out vcore. I would recommend starting at 1.35 and working upwards based on temps.

Also, a couple of shots denoting the SLI Ready Memory settings.

Also a shot of the screen demonstrating the location of the HPET feature (Which should be disabled)


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## Dman

I had two of these boards, the first one worked fine until I flashed it to the 602 bios, which resulted in a fried north bridge while the board was on auto settings, received a 2nd board, with the 602 bios on it as well, same thing happened, fried memory controller, so be wary of the 602 bios those looking to purchase this board.


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## Robilar

The one thing I recommend is caution when bios flashing this board. It seems that most of the complaints at other forums are because the bios did not update successfully. I even had a bad experience myself.


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## Robilar

Here are some pics of my aftermarket cooling and the space limitations of a sound card in the middle slot with SLI.


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## Robilar

And a few more


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## Ninja_Boy

How could I mount Noctua NC-U6 Dual Heatpipe Chipset Coolers? I'm thinking of mounting the Southbridge cooler parallel to the Third PCI-Express 16x Lane, the one that runs a 8x electronically, so that it does interfere with the nVidia G80; which is 2cm longer than a Standard ATX Motherboard.









I'm thinking of mounting the Northbridge cooler equal to the CPU Cooler, degree wise, so that it does not interfere with the cooling of the EnzoTech Ultra-X.

I have a few questions, like:

Can the white lever be raised so that it takes up less space?
Do I have enough space, between the Graphics Card(s) and transistors, to mount a Noctua NC-U6?

I will be using these PCI/PCI-Express Lanes:

PCI 1: bluegears B-Enspirer
PCI 2: Linksys Network Card
PCI-Express 1: eVGA 8900GTX
PCI-Express 2: eVGA 8900GTX (Later on.)

[OCN] Ninja_Boy


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## Robilar

Why would you need a network card? There are two built in to the motherboard

The white lever is the locking bracket for the video card?

Also if you are using two 8800gtx, you will only have one free PCI slot (The centre one)

I don't think the noctua will work with dual sli. the thermaltake and the thermalright can both be mounted off centre. in other words, the chipset is covered but the fan or the heatpipe array (on the two respectively) sits off centre from the middle of the chipset. The noctua array sits centred on the chipset.

As you can see from the pics I added, the cooler sits offset of the centre of the chipset. *The noctua will be fine for the northbridge but not the southbridge*


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## Robilar

As you can see from this pic, the 3 lower pci-e slots (2 blue one white) are for graphics. the other two raised regular pci slots are for other cards. The problem is the far left slot is completely blocked if you put a dual slot 8800gtx in the blue pci-e above it.


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## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ninja_Boy* 
How could I mount Noctua NC-U6 Dual Heatpipe Chipset Coolers? I'm thinking of mounting the Southbridge cooler parallel to the Third PCI-Express 16x Lane, *the one that runs a 8x electronically, so that it does interfere with the nVidia G80; which is 2cm longer than a Standard ATX Motherboard. :eek*:

I'm thinking of mounting the Northbridge cooler equal to the CPU Cooler, degree wise, so that it does not interfere with the cooling of the EnzoTech Ultra-X.

I have a few questions, like:

Can the white lever be raised so that it takes up less space?
Do I have enough space, between the Graphics Card(s) and transistors, to mount a Noctua NC-U6?

I will be using these PCI/PCI-Express Lanes:

PCI 1: bluegears B-Enspirer
PCI 2: Linksys Network Card
PCI-Express 1: eVGA 8900GTX
PCI-Express 2: eVGA 8900GTX (Later on.)

[OCN] Ninja_Boy


As you can see from my pics, the G80 is longer than the board but makes no difference in chipset cooling


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## jstupiansky

Nice work!


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## Ninja_Boy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Why would you need a network card? There are two built in to the motherboard

The white lever is the locking bracket for the video card?

Also if you are using two 8800gtx, you will only have one free PCI slot (The centre one)

I don't think the noctua will work with dual sli. the thermaltake and the thermalright can both be mounted off centre. in other words, the chipset is covered but the fan or the heatpipe array (on the two respectively) sits off centre from the middle of the chipset. The noctua array sits centred on the chipset.

As you can see from the pics I added, the cooler sits offset of the centre of the chipset. *The noctua will be fine for the northbridge but not the southbridge*

I'm thinking of getting an EnzoTech CNB-S1 for the Northbridge and an EnzoTech CNB-S1L for the Southbridge. The L, which stands for Low, can fit underneath a G80 since it is a mere 11.6mm tall. The CNB-S1 and S1L are heatsinks forged from pure copper and they come with a near perfect base. (Within .0003 inches of flat.







)



















[OCN] Ninja_Boy


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## Robilar

Ninja, they are still passive cooling. They can be the best passive cooling in the world but they will be trapped in a pocket under the G80's and run very hot. As I mentioned in this thread, the two coolers that *will* work with any of the 8800 cards in SLI or singly are the Thermaltake and the Thermalright.


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## Ninja_Boy

Okay, then. I'm thinking of doing this with the Noctua NC-U6. Since it can be rotated 120 degrees I'm thinking of rotating it slightly so that it does not interfere with the dual slot cooler of the nVidia G80. Instead, the front fins are out of the way while the rear fins are in the place that the cooler would be if it extended all the way until the end of the board (like on the eVGA ASC3 KO Version).










I will lift up that lever, which normally would keep a Graphics Card in place, so it takes up less space. Then, I will mount the Noctua at an angle - a greater angle than shown in the picture, my MS Paint skills are terrible - so that the G80's cooler can fit. Also, the Third PCI-Express Slot is placed far enough away from the First PCI-Express Slot so that I _could_ mount the Noctua parallel to it.

[OCN] Ninja_Boy


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## marc.tulley

good robilar, didnt notice 903 was out, will i get any noticable improvements? :S + with respect to NB n SB cooling I have the lil swiftech waterblock on there , my 8800gts fit in the too , very snugg though
(pic has a 6600gt in as Im RMA'in my 8800gts tomo so thats why theres a waterblock hovering around







)

http://www.leelambhomes.co.uk/intel/NBSBcooling.jpg


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## Robilar

So far so good with the 0903. One thing I noticed when I run 10x380, I only need 1.43 vcore to keep it stable (I needed 1.5 before)


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## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ninja_Boy* 
Okay, then. I'm thinking of doing this with the Noctua NC-U6. Since it can be rotated 120 degrees I'm thinking of rotating it slightly so that it does not interfere with the dual slot cooler of the nVidia G80. Instead, the front fins are out of the way while the rear fins are in the place that the cooler would be if it extended all the way until the end of the board (like on the eVGA ASC3 KO Version).










I will lift up that lever, which normally would keep a Graphics Card in place, so it takes up less space. Then, I will mount the Noctua at an angle - a greater angle than shown in the picture, my MS Paint skills are terrible - so that the G80's cooler can fit. Also, the Third PCI-Express Slot is placed far enough away from the First PCI-Express Slot so that I _could_ mount the Noctua parallel to it.

[OCN] Ninja_Boy

First the lever doesn;t go up or down it clips outward to lock a card. Second your Noctua should fit otherwise but you may run into clearance issues with sound cards in that slot (I did). Its a trial and error process. With the thermalrights, I ended up having to shear off a piece of one of the mounting bolts as it was ramming into my video card.


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## alexisd

Nice guide [Robilar]We can recommend the jing thing as long you can clear the gpu and the battery?Thats the one im using rigth now and clear the sound card too.


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## Robilar

Nice. Do you have a link? I'd like to see what it looks like.

Alex, I'd recommend the 0903 bios btw. It seems to use slightly less vcore to hit the same overclocks. (Less heat)


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## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Nice. Do you have a link? I'd like to see what it looks like.

Alex, I'd recommend the 0903 bios btw. It seems to use slightly less vcore to hit the same overclocks. (Less heat)

I been trying to load my pics but no luck.Working on it.The good thing about is that you can offset this cooler.
Link=here.http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=4638


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## Robilar

Interesting looking. You are right on the clearance, its similar to the Thermalright HR-05 SLI in that it offsets the cooling array away from the chipset.


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## alexisd

Yup,and work great.Actually you clear the gpu the battery and the sound card.I try the spirit II in the same place and no a go.I always try to test any part before install and check for clearance.


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## Robilar

Good pic. Do you think it would work if you had a second 8800gtx in there?


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## marc.tulley

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Yup,and work great.Actually you clear the gpu the battery and the sound card.I try the spirit II in the same place and no a go.I always try to test any part before install and check for clearance.

lol luv the lil RAM sink at the back















i got lots n shuv them everywhere too


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## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Good pic. Do you think it would work if you had a second 8800gtx in there?

Way too close.But really I double check and no.You know this card is a monster.Way big.Sry for the blurry pics.My camera is mess up.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marc.tulley* 
lol luv the lil RAM sink at the back














i got lots n shuv them everywhere too









Yup that the swiftech mc 8800 smc cooling kit.You must have this kit if you remove the pipes.


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## Robilar

I had no problems mounting the spirit on the sb except for the length clearance issue with the sound card in the center. Fortunately, The Bluegears B-Enspirer is superior to the X-FI Gamer and is short enough to fit (the X-FI isn't)


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## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Yup,and work great.Actually you clear the gpu the battery and the sound card.I try the spirit II in the same place and no a go.I always try to test any part before install and check for clearance.

Thats a Striker Extreme?


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## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Thats a Striker Extreme?

No is the P5N32 like your's.But I remove the sticker and this is it what I found.Like most of the ppl mention have the striker extreme sticker.


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## Robilar

I read that. I just couldn;t be bothered.


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## alexisd

Hey Robilar.In the guide I think you never said for what speed are those settings?Are they max settings for what speed and what cpu?


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## Labombadog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Yup that the swiftech mc 8800 smc cooling kit.You must have this kit if you remove the pipes.

Is that easy to do? Because I need to remove my pipes..but im scared to.


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## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Labombadog* 
Is that easy to do? Because I need to remove my pipes..but im scared to.

Yess is easy but maybe you want some help.For hold the mobo for you to remove the plastic little thing that hold the cooler and the pipes.
Hey robilar now im testing this.You know I have hit 2 differents settings and over 20 hrs stable.Now working in the x 10 multy.And differents speeds.Now like you said and we all know need some time to find the best set and settings for you.As long no all the systems are equal.


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## Robilar

Damn nice. I was the first guy on this forum to get the board back when everyone was jumping on the EVGA board (ok I had one of those too). Its proving to be a better overclocker than any of the other 680i boards.

Alex, the 10x multi should be really stable.

Now we all need SLI'd 8800gtx!


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## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Labombadog*


Is that easy to do? Because I need to remove my pipes..but im scared to.


The pipes are a piece of cake to remove


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## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Hey Robilar.In the guide I think you never said for what speed are those settings?Are they max settings for what speed and what cpu?


Those settings were tested with 7x500, 9x400, and 10x360. They also work with 13x266. I'm currently testing 13x300 (3.9!). It boots into windows fine and runs windows at idle without issue but its hovering at close to 68C. I had to bump vcore up to 1.5 though. Obviously orthos at this setting is out of the question.


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## cognoscenti

I have had some success with using the thread starters excelllent guide, much appreciated as I'm a newcomer to this.

Here are some screenshots from my experimenting.
The 2007 version is unfortunately in german but i know what it says by looking at the earlier version.

One quick question, Everest reports my GPU (8800GTS 640b) being 63-68 degrees C ,is this hot????


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## cognoscenti




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## Robilar

Nice work. 3.375 on a 2.4 Ghz processor is excellent. You will be able to go farther on that chip (Depending on cooling type, up to 3.6 is feasible) ! A couple of things.

Try to stay at the 9x multi rather than the 7x. You will get faster benches. You may eventually need to bump vcore higher to keep it stable (up to 1.55 is still safe). What kind of cpu cooling are you using?

Also the temps you indicated for your gts are fine. Mine runs in the 60's all the time. They run hot as a rule, especially if you overclock them or have poor airflow in the gpu area.

Also, you should upgrade to 0903 bios as the 0902 despite being stable is still a beta. I have tested 0903 thoroughly and it seems that you need slightly less vcore for similar overclocks.

For your ram, I would try running it unlinked, set timings to 4-4-4-12 and 1T. If that works try 4-4-4-8 1T (it might not work that tight due to it being PC2-5400 667 Mhz RAM.

Hope that helps.
Welcome to Overclock.net!


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## TheLegend

Nice guide Robilar, but I have to disagree with one setting.

You specify that people should max out the CPU VTT at 1.55. Anything over 1.5 without proper cooling, specifically water/phase/TEC, is asking for trouble. I would recommend a lower setting and watch temps and go from there.


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## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLegend*


Nice guide Robilar, but I have to disagree with one setting.

You specify that people should max out the CPU VTT at 1.55. Anything over 1.5 without proper cooling, specifically water/phase/TEC, is asking for trouble. I would recommend a lower setting and watch temps and go from there.


Sorry to correct you but on the 680i boards, CPU VTT has absolutely zero effect on cpu temperatures.

Also, it is more important than vcore for stabilizing overclocks.

I verified this when I first got the board, all settings at stock, max VTT (1.55), run orthos for 1 hour record temps. Do it again this time with VTT at auto (around 1.2), orthos again. Temps were identical.

It does something else unrelated to vcore .

The other P5N32-E owners I've talked with at Xtreme concur on this as well.


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## Kirmie

Well, this VTT thing was bugging me so I went to google and searched around to find this









http://enthusiast.hardocp.com/articl...50aHVzaWFzdA==

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=103353

Accoding to the first link the CPU VTT controls the CPU termination voltage. On the other hand, the second link actually explains what this is. From what I gather it reduces the number of false electrical signals by providing a form of "ground" to pull out these false currents. Guy also says that tunning this is mostly trial and error so the highest setting may not be the best meaning higher OCs may be possible with a different CPU VTT setting.


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## Robilar

Nice find!

I've learned through testing that the maxed setting works best on the Asus board. To your point, it may be different with other boards.

If you don't mind, I'll add it to the thread.


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## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Nice work. 3.375 on a 2.4 Ghz processor is excellent. You will be able to go farther on that chip (Depending on cooling type, up to 3.6 is feasible) ! A couple of things.

Try to stay at the 9x multi rather than the 7x. You will get faster benches. You may eventually need to bump vcore higher to keep it stable (up to 1.55 is still safe). What kind of cpu cooling are you using?

Also the temps you indicated for your gts are fine. Mine runs in the 60's all the time. They run hot as a rule, especially if you overclock them or have poor airflow in the gpu area.

Also, you should upgrade to 0903 bios as the 0902 despite being stable is still a beta. I have tested 0903 thoroughly and it seems that you need slightly less vcore for similar overclocks.

For your ram, I would try running it unlinked, set timings to 4-4-4-12 and 1T. If that works try 4-4-4-8 1T (it might not work that tight due to it being PC2-5400 667 Mhz RAM.

Hope that helps.
Welcome to Overclock.net!


Thanks , well alot of thanks to you actually as it was your settings that made me take 4 mins to go from 2.4 to 3.375ghz,









Is this Ram i have any good? I dont know a thing about ram and timings etc









Oh, how long are you meant to leave Orthos running?


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## Robilar

You are welcome.

The hardcore guys run orthos 12 hours but I typically run it 3. I don;t leave my rig running all the time so why bother.


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## alexisd

This new testnig set up with the x 10 multy need plenty of volts.And everest report something different than probe in volts wich one you think is rigth?Everest show 1.47 and probe 1.55.


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## Mr Pink57

Has anyone had luck just swapping to AS5 on the stock NB/SB coolers and getting suffecient temps? I do have a HR-05 SLi on my Ultra-D I can swap over but I only have one and do not know if I wanna get another for this. If anything I may just put it on the NB...

pink


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## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr Pink57*


Has anyone had luck just swapping to AS5 on the stock NB/SB coolers and getting suffecient temps? I do have a HR-05 SLi on my Ultra-D I can swap over but I only have one and do not know if I wanna get another for this. If anything I may just put it on the NB...

pink


Hey pink why no look for my cooler?The jing thing and you play safe.Once you remove the pipes you want to have good cooling solution,in the sb and nb.


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## Mr Pink57

I already own a Thermalright HR-05 SLi so I can just put it in there and if it did in fact work I would buy another of the same instead of spending more on two other coolers. The HR-05 SLi is a beast non the less.

pink


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## alexisd

You fine as long use 1 for each bridge.And you can get some little ram sinks for the capacitors too.I have them all over the board.I have the swiftech mc 8800 smc cooling kit.


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## Robilar

I seriously doubt going to AS5 is going to make much difference. The chipsets get so hot, that the only difference you will see is with active cooling.


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## Mr Pink57

I will get the other cooler later after I try this one. But I will proabably drop some AS5 on there while I wait anyways. Best time to do it is before I get it in there.

pink


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## Ninja_Boy

I'm thinking of getting the EnzoTech CNB-S1L for the Southbridge and either the CNB-S1 for the Northbridge or the Noctua NC-U6. I'm trying to get 500FSB 24/7 and maybe up the PCI speed to 133 from 100MHz - if possible. I'm looking for options that will not get in the way when I have a Sound Card and SLi.

Is it a good idea to place Ramsinks on Chips on the motherboard? If so, is/are there a certain chip/chips that I should place it on? I'm also thinking of putting a couple on my Sound Card and a few of them on random locations on my Asus P5N32-E.

--

To Asus P5N32-E nForce 680i ATX Intel Motherboard Owners:

Can you guys measure the size of the stock Northbridge and Southbridge coolers and give me the size in mm?

[OCN] Ninja_Boy


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## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ninja_Boy*


I'm thinking of getting the EnzoTech CNB-S1L for the Southbridge and either the CNB-S1 for the Northbridge or the Noctua NC-U6. I'm trying to get 500FSB 24/7 and maybe up the PCI speed to 133 from 100MHz - if possible. I'm looking for options that will not get in the way when I have a Sound Card and SLi.

Is it a good idea to place Ramsinks on Chips on the motherboard? If so, is/are there a certain chip/chips that I should place it on? I'm also thinking of putting a couple on my Sound Card and a few of them on random locations on my Asus P5N32-E.

--

To Asus P5N32-E nForce 680i ATX Intel Motherboard Owners:

Can you guys measure the size of the stock Northbridge and Southbridge coolers and give me the size in mm?

[OCN] Ninja_Boy


If you can go back and read from the post# 21 on maybe you like that cooler is the jing thing.
Now my up date[Robilar]I lowered the nb volts and is been stable 8 hrs and running,also i lowered the fsb to 1410 x 10 multy from 1420 x 10 multy and lowered the volts from 1.581 to 1.575 .What you think?Oh and increase the memory @ 1000 in bios.


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## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


If you can go back and read from the post# 21 on maybe you like that cooler is the jing thing.
Now my up date[Robilar]I lowered the nb volts and is been stable 8 hrs and running,also i lowered the fsb to 1410 x 10 multy from 1420 x 10 multy and lowered the volts from 1.581 to 1.575 .What you think?Oh and increase the memory @ 1000 in bios.


Excellent. I had a great deal of success with my E6700 at 10x when I first got the board. 8 hours stable is fantastic. You can pretty much run it 24/7 after a test like that.


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## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ninja_Boy*


I'm thinking of getting the EnzoTech CNB-S1L for the Southbridge and either the CNB-S1 for the Northbridge or the Noctua NC-U6. I'm trying to get 500FSB 24/7 and maybe up the PCI speed to 133 from 100MHz - if possible. I'm looking for options that will not get in the way when I have a Sound Card and SLi.

Is it a good idea to place Ramsinks on Chips on the motherboard? If so, is/are there a certain chip/chips that I should place it on? I'm also thinking of putting a couple on my Sound Card and a few of them on random locations on my Asus P5N32-E.

--

To Asus P5N32-E nForce 680i ATX Intel Motherboard Owners:

Can you guys measure the size of the stock Northbridge and Southbridge coolers and give me the size in mm?

[OCN] Ninja_Boy



Depends on the chip. I hit 500 FSB with two different chips but the chips that seem the best for the high fsb are the ones with the lowest multi (as high multi chips like the E6700 run better at 10x anyhow).

Regarding the nb/sb measurements, what exactly do you need? All of the chipset coolers on the market fit into the standard chipset mounting holes. The issue you need to address is clearance to video and sound cards in the area.

I personally have no heatsinks on any of the chips except the VRMs around the cpu area that were uncovered when I removed the heatpipes. None of the other chips get hot enough to warrant a ram or chipset cooler.


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## alexisd

Stop @ 10 hrsstable.Maybe can go a little higher/lol.
Really this type of chip the ES need some volts.I notice that with lower nb volts is more stable.Weird.


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## charger265

Hey,

Quote:
"This board likes clean power with very little ripple. I had some issues with a Silverstone Zeus 750W that worked but was unstable. A change to a much more stable Enermax resolved instability issues with the board immediately."

I have this PSU on its way.

How much of an issue was this PSU, could you please go into more detail about the problems you had.

Thanks

P.S. 
I have found you posts very helpful.
Keep up the good work


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## Robilar

I have found that when I measured the power supply fluctuation with the pc probe graph, it bounced and spiked a fair bit. I had some bsods in conjunction with the spikes. Simple correlation.

I returned the 750W Silverstone Zeus assuming it was defective adn got the 850W version. It was DOA. Returned it and got the Enermax, problems were solved.

The distributor I deal with in the main reseller of Silverstone in Canada. He indicated that they had received numerous Zeus models back for RMA in the last 6 months and were no longer ordering new ones. He also mentioned that the Silverstone rep had indicated that they were discontinuing the Zeus line (although the rep wouldn't say as to why). The distributor and I came to the conclusion that there are issues with the Zeus line (or maybe just the most recent product runs).

With that said, the other lines of Silverstone product don't seem to be suffering the same problems and you may still end up with a good one.

With respect to this board, it is very sensitive to ripple and spike.


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## p00ter71

mine burned out on me on the same day i got my 8800gts640.i didnt wanna wait for rma so i bought a p5b to hold me over.still need to rma it tho.solid board b4 that happened


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## Kirmie

Just wondering, but does anybody know where the mobo temp sensor is at on this board?


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## esco

Great guide. Was putting off overclocking with this board because i was just happy that it actually WORKED out of the box and did not end up another horror story.

Thing is i seem to have run into a road block. I was easily able to overclock to 3150 (1400fsb 800mem) with no prob with a Vcore of 1.45. Prob is now if i try to go above that i get BSOD. II incressed memory stepping from 4-4-4-12 to 5-5-5-12T1 with no luck. Tried increasing to Vcore to 1.475 still nothing/ I set mem voltage to 2.2 when i first set up bios per manufactor. Running out of ideas.


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## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *esco*


Great guide. Was putting off overclocking with this board because i was just happy that it actually WORKED out of the box and did not end up another horror story.

Thing is i seem to have run into a road block. I was easily able to overclock to 3150 (1400fsb 800mem) with no prob with a Vcore of 1.45. Prob is now if i try to go above that i get BSOD. II incressed memory stepping from 4-4-4-12 to 5-5-5-12T1 with no luck. Tried increasing to Vcore to 1.475 still nothing/ I set mem voltage to 2.2 when i first set up bios per manufactor. Running out of ideas.


Glad you like it. Are you running the ram unlinked?

You should really leave the ram at auto first and push you cpu as high as it can go with stability. Then set ram to unlinked and gradually start pushing it.

Also, an important aspect of this board is that you can run ram at 1T. Have you increased the voltage to the ram at all? Some ram needs more than stock/auto voltage on this board. I have only tested Corsair and OCZ ram on this board, so the Patriot sticks you are using may need some extra attention.

If you are interested in speed, the ram will actually be faster at tight timing (4-4-4-8, 1T, if your ram can support it) at 800 Mhz than at loose timings with higher FSB on the ram.


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## esco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Glad you like it. Are you running the ram unlinked?

You should really leave the ram at auto first and push you cpu as high as it can go with stability. Then set ram to unlinked and gradually start pushing it.

Also, an important aspect of this board is that you can run ram at 1T. Have you increased the voltage to the ram at all? Some ram needs more than stock/auto voltage on this board. I have only tested Corsair and OCZ ram on this board, so the Patriot sticks you are using may need some extra attention.

If you are interested in speed, the ram will actually be faster at tight timing (4-4-4-8, 1T, if your ram can support it) at 800 Mhz than at loose timings with higher FSB on the ram.


Currently running unlinked. I have set the ram voltage to 2.2v since that is what the manufactor recommended to get it to work at 4-4-4-12 1T. Decided on the patriot ram because of reviews.

You suggested that i should not manually put in the steppings at frist? Also i should set it to linked at first also? Still very new to overclocking. Thank you god for clr cmos


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## 2dxtreme

i need someone's help i don't mean to jump in here and raid this thread but i just got done installing everything in my new case go here http://www.overclock.net/intel-build...need-help.html for the build specs. well i fired it up for the first time and it won't post i just get check signal on my monitor what can i start checking to see what the problem is?


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## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *esco*


Currently running unlinked. I have set the ram voltage to 2.2v since that is what the manufactor recommended to get it to work at 4-4-4-12 1T. Decided on the patriot ram because of reviews.

You suggested that i should not manually put in the steppings at frist? Also i should set it to linked at first also? Still very new to overclocking. Thank you god for clr cmos










No, overclock the cpu first with the ram settings on auto (you can leave the voltage at 2.2 anyhow). Once you get a stable OC on the cpu, move to the ram. I would always recommend unlinked over linked as then you can move the ram up separatedly from the cpu and isolate which one is crashing during an overclock. Also, linked may force the ram into a strap that it isn't stable in. You won;t know as it could be a combination of factors.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *2dxtreme*


i need someone's help i don't mean to jump in here and raid this thread but i just got done installing everything in my new case go here http://www.overclock.net/intel-build...need-help.html for the build specs. well i fired it up for the first time and it won't post i just get check signal on my monitor what can i start checking to see what the problem is?


Your link is invalid


----------



## 2dxtreme

http://www.overclock.net/intel-build...need-help.html sorry bout that try that one


----------



## Robilar

Here is the newest addition to my motherboard. Cooling for the VRM's around the cpu left exposed by the removal of the heatpipes.

They are 21mm long and 6mm wide. Just right to cover the VRM's in high quality, black anodized aluminum.

Swifttech MC21 Mosfet Heatsinks

Available in Canada at Bigfoot Computers for $13 for a set of 4(you'll need two sets).

I'm picking them up tomorrow to install.


----------



## alexisd

Thats what i did.Im using the switftech mc 8800 all over the board.Hey robilar another stable setting here,with the x 9 multy.This board is sweet.Any combo is stable and good.Now the ? is which one is better/lol. I run differents benchies but so far the best is with the x 10 multy.The 1 with the x 8 is good too.Now im using the one with the x 9 multy.


----------



## Ducky

Major rep to you, this will save me some troubles in the near future!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Thats what i did.Im using the switftech mc 8800 all over the board.Hey robilar another stable setting here,with the x 9 multy.This board is sweet.Any combo is stable and good.Now the ? is which one is better/lol. I run differents benchies but so far the best is with the x 10 multy.The 1 with the x 8 is good too.Now im using the one with the x 9 multy.


As discussed, the higher the multi, the faster the strap. Keep it at 10x and work from there.

Nice overclocks


----------



## 2dxtreme

anyone?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *2dxtreme*


anyone?


I tried to make sense of your build log. What board are you using? You list having purchased the Asus board but referred to checking with EVGA for support (but did you get an ATI card or an Nvidia one?)

If you provide a quick summary here of your issues with the Asus P5N32-E board, I may be able to assist you.

Your pictures show the Asus board so you can see the confusion.

the ram btw, should go in the two blue slots (or two white slots)

Your cpu fan should be oriented to blow air out of the back of the case

The cpu fan header should use the bottom (or right) 3 pins so that it locks on the tab supplied.

*Edit*, ok clicked on your newegg link and saw that you got an evga card.

So your assumption is that the card is defective or the board?

If there was a broken memory clip out of the box, you may have gotten a returned board (not new) and possibly defective. Shipping would not break a memory clip.

C2D E6400
EVGA 7600GT
Asus P5N32-E Plus
Crucial Ballistix 2x512 MB PC-2 6400
Apevia 600W Power Supply

Are these specs correct? (You should fill out your system specs, it took me awhile of jumping around the pages of your log to figure out what you actually bought)


----------



## Kirmie

First off, I'm using the 903 bios. So with that said, I've tried changing the multi from 9x to 10x but when I save and exit this is reset. I've tried changing this and another thing at the same time and the other thing will save but the multi will not. I'm I missing something or is my cpu's multi locked?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kirmie* 
First off, I'm using the 903 bios. So with that said, I've tried changing the multi from 9x to 10x but when I save and exit this is reset. I've tried changing this and another thing at the same time and the other thing will save but the multi will not. I'm I missing something or is my cpu's multi locked?

You are running an E6600. Its default multi is 9x. You can lower it but you can't raise it. The only chips that will do 10x are the E6700 (default 10x multi) and the Xtreme chips like mine with unlocked multi's.


----------



## Kirmie

Thanks for the quick response. At least this explain why the price of the 6600 to the 6700 jumps so much compared to the 6400 to the 6600.


----------



## Robilar

Even with a 9x multi, you should be able to do 9x390 (3.5 Ghz) without issue. Follow my guide (Vcore at 1.4 - 1.45 should do it)


----------



## webdork

Robilar, I just wanted to thank you for posting this guide and helping walk so many people thru issues. I have found your posts very informative, and I have decided to take the plunge with this board and use the guide to OC it when the time comes. I was wondering if you wouldn't mind taking a look at a build I have going on NewEgg and offer your thoughts on the components? I hope I'm not too off topic, but I wanted to find out what the best options were for this board given your knowledge of it.

NewEgg Wish List: CheapSkate

My questions are mainly the following:

1. Do you think an E6600 is a good idea for OCing until the X6800s drop at the end of the year?
2. The Patriot Memory - I have read that is has great OCing properties, but I am a n00b so I have no idea - any experience with it? TIA!!!


----------



## Robilar

The E6600 is excellent. You should be able to get 3.5 to 3.6 Ghz easily on this board with air cooling

Patriot memory is a mixed bag.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227191

OCZ Reaper HPC Edition 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500)

Its $80 more but if you go with the PC Power power supply you'll even out in price. This RAM also has EPP Profiles (SLI Ready designed for auto overclocking with this board).

http://enthusiast.hardocp.com/articl...50aHVzaWFzdA==

Here is a review on that BFG power supply. I would avoid it.

this one is much better (And the money you save can go to the ram I recommended)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817703008

The PC Power & Cooling 750W Quad ($90 cheaper)

The antec 900 is very cluttered for a pair of 8800gtx (if thats what you are planning down the road). I had the case for 2 days and returned it. Single card, its fine although you won't be able to mount the internal fan cage off the back of the hhd cage. The thermaltake armor is only $40 more and much better for upgrading.


----------



## webdork

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


The E6600 is excellent. You should be able to get 3.5 to 3.6 Ghz easily on this board with air cooling...


Wow perfect! That's exactly what I need to hear! My plan is indeed to go to two 8800s down the line. I want to get a machine that I can basically put together and keep stock for now, as long as it plays STALKER and OBLIVION with no trouble on max'd settings. Gaming is my only thing, that's the only purpose of this box besides minor office stuff and web surfing.

So I want something I can run for now, and then start OC'ing and adding onto it later as the games become more demanding. I have an Antec Titan 550 case still (roomy!), and lots of good fans, as well as two WD Raptors in raid 0. So with the adjustments you suggested, I should be looking at a nice setup!

I plan on doing the NB/SB cooling solutions like you have right off the bat, as well as the a CPU cooler (you suggest yours for an E6600?). I also have a portable air conditioner that I put right on the side of my last box, venting out the window (little custom job I rigged to keep my 7950s and AMD X2 +4400 cold) so I can use that to make it frosty inside.

The only thing I am unsure about still is the PSU. I have read so many reviews stating that 1Kw is almost required for dual 8800s, but I picked that one on egg b/c well, I'm cheap! But I will look at your suggestions and read some more reviews - no sense in wrecking the whole thing to save a few bucks.

EDIT: Can you use 2 PSUs? I always wondered that. Could you like use one just to plug in your video cards and the other for your mobo etc, Or does the main cable have to be attached to the mobo for it to work? I'm a dolt I know, but I'm just good at killing digital monsters, not building boxes ;P

And lol on the memory, I took that OCZ out at the last second! Back in it goes







Any other suggestions you might have would be very welcome, and *thanks again* for the help, it's awesome to get advice from someone that has tested it and knows!


----------



## Robilar

rep me if i helped









You can you two PSU's but the PC Power I linked will easily run two 8800GTX. Also, my enermax galaxy 850W (its the same price as that BFG POS you linked) also has no difficulty running dual 8800gtx in SLI (I returned one of the gtx recently as I was having software issues with some games. I'll pick another one up when the drivers mature so its good you are waiting as well. The only thing that runs without issue on dual 8800gtx is futuremark benches... what a coincidence).

I like the Zalman 9700 because it does the one thing that the Tuniq Tower and the Thermalright 120 (both slightly better coolers depending on the fan you use): It cools the VRM's around the cpu effectively. Tower HSF's don't. considering you will have to strip the heatpipes to mount aftermarket cooling, the VRM's will be exposed.


----------



## Robilar

On the note of my last post, here is my new Swifttech MC21 Mosfet coolers mounted on the motherboard VRM's. Its like they are tailor made for this (They are actually designed to go on 8800GTX with water cooling).


----------



## webdork

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


On the note of my last post, here is my new Swifttech MC21 Mosfet coolers mounted on the motherboard VRM's. Its like they are tailor made for this (They are actually designed to go on 8800GTX with water cooling).


Repp'd







On those heatsinks: what are they mounted with?


----------



## Robilar

They come pre-mounted with 3m thermal adhesive tape

Xoxide has them in the US (didn't check newegg)


----------



## t4ct1c47

I've removed the stock chipset coolers so I could apply some Arctic Silver 5 to replace the crap thermal compound that Asus use. I noticed that it had been poorly applied and is a right pain in the arse to remove. I spent quite some time useing alchohol on a cotton bud to remove it. This has helped my temperatures ever so slightly but I still intend to replace the chipset coolers next month. Roll on Uni grants!


----------



## Robilar

I don't think there is even a name for the crap the motherboard manf. call thermal paste.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I don't think there is even a name for the crap the motherboard manf. call thermal paste.

Agree =







Im getting ready to run all the benchies,to see if I can go back in the top 30 sytems.The last time i check i was like in the 27 position.lol.Before c2d i reach # 10 once for a week.


----------



## dijonace

Guys I made a stupid mistake and I can't recover from it. I changed my MCP Ref Clock to 300 instead of auto and I can't get the system to boot....just brings me to a black screen. Any chance that I can recover without bringing it into the shop?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dijonace* 
Guys I made a stupid mistake and I can't recover from it. I changed my MCP Ref Clock to 300 instead of auto and I can't get the system to boot....just brings me to a black screen. Any chance that I can recover?

Yup we here.No post at all?If not.You have to clear the cmos battery.Turn off your system and unplug off the power source.Then remove the battery.Wait couples of minutes and put it back on.And you back on track.
Hope it help you.


----------



## dijonace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Yup we here.No post at all?If not.You have to clear the scimos battery.Turn off your system and unplug off the power source.Then remove the battery.Wait couples of minutes and put it back on.And you back on track.
Hope it help you.


No post at all. Sorry but what is the scimos battery?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dijonace* 
No post at all. Sorry but what is the scimos battery?

Is like a clock battery round one.Is the battery in the bottom of your mobo.Remove and put it back on.


----------



## 2dxtreme

ok updated sorry took so long


----------



## dijonace

Oh my gosh you guys are the greatest! Thanks for saving my butt again.


----------



## rocketman331

I plan on using G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) on this motherboard. I am wondering if the memory will work on my board. I've checked the QVL and can't find this memory on the list. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dijonace*


Oh my gosh you guys are the greatest! Thanks for saving my butt again.


No problem.Now go and have a happy OC.








To rocketman 331.yes go for it no problem.


----------



## dijonace

Please delete this note.


----------



## alexisd

Click exit.You need to go into the bios.When you power up you have to hit the delete key to enter in the bios.And then reset the boot order,when you clear the cmos you have to reset the boot order.Hdd first.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rocketman331* 
I plan on using G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) on this motherboard. I am wondering if the memory will work on my board. I've checked the QVL and can't find this memory on the list. Any help would be appreciated.

Mr Pink 57 on this forum is using Gskill on this board. He hasn't posted any issues. Send him a PM.

http://www.overclock.net/member.php?u=23648

Here is his profile


----------



## dijonace

Robilar,

I'm a bit confused on this text...maybe I'm reading it incorrectly:

"If you are running an E6600 or E6700, then keep the multi and stock and up the FSB until you max out"

Since I'm running a E6600...does this assume that I should keep the multi at 9.0 and then increase the FSB? Right now my FSB is linked at a 3:2 ratio (per the recommendations in my other thread).

Thanks!


----------



## webdork

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
They come pre-mounted with 3m thermal adhesive tape

Xoxide has them in the US (didn't check newegg)

NewEgg has everything, including the soundcard! NewEgg Updated Wish List I have a few last questions before I buy:

Is there any disadvantage to using the on-board sound vs. the $100 "shorty" bluegears b-Enspirer you mentioned?

What type of compound / tape etc do you use for the NB / SB heatsinks/fans? The stuff that comes with it?

For the VRMs, I have selected the Tuniq, but do you think they will be cool enough if I grab the Swiftech MC21 Anodized Aluminum Heatsinks and use those in conjunction with the Tuniq?
Thanks once again for all of your help and guidance, you have made this process MUCH less stressful for me! And to reiterate, I am not planning on doing any OCing or additional hardware unless/until my current favorite games start stuttering / chugging, then it's OC time baby!!!

PS: I intend to take a LOT of high quality pictures of this whole process, so I'll post them here in the event they might help others with visual aids! Let me know if you have any requests etc. I amm getting really excited about this now! My finger is hovering over the Add to Cart button!!!


----------



## PHyR

Great thread, loads of usual information.

Robilar, can you tell me what North and South bridge temperatures you get with the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II coolers?

I would be interested to compaire these to the standard setup as I am thinking of getting a pair for mine.

Also, did you consider modifying the original heatpipe arrangement in order to keep the big copper heat-sinks on the VRM's, e.g. chopping it up a little, this was my intention although I guess it will probably effect the boards re-sale value a little.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dijonace* 
Robilar,

I'm a bit confused on this text...maybe I'm reading it incorrectly:

"If you are running an E6600 or E6700, then keep the multi *and* stock and up the FSB until you max out"

Since I'm running a E6600...does this assume that I should keep the multi at 9.0 and then increase the FSB? Right now my FSB is linked at a 3:2 ratio (per the recommendations in my other thread).

Thanks!

Sorry that should read, "at" stock. In other words, leave it at 9x and up the fsb gradually till you max out in stability.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *webdork* 
NewEgg has everything, including the soundcard! NewEgg Updated Wish List I have a few last questions before I buy:

Is there any disadvantage to using the on-board sound vs. the $100 "shorty" bluegears b-Enspirer you mentioned?

What type of compound / tape etc do you use for the NB / SB heatsinks/fans? The stuff that comes with it?

For the VRMs, I have selected the Tuniq, but do you think they will be cool enough if I grab the Swiftech MC21 Anodized Aluminum Heatsinks and use those in conjunction with the Tuniq?
Thanks once again for all of your help and guidance, you have made this process MUCH less stressful for me! And to reiterate, I am not planning on doing any OCing or additional hardware unless/until my current favorite games start stuttering / chugging, then it's OC time baby!!!

PS: I intend to take a LOT of high quality pictures of this whole process, so I'll post them here in the event they might help others with visual aids! Let me know if you have any requests etc. I amm getting really excited about this now! My finger is hovering over the Add to Cart button!!!


Pictures are a great addition!

Onboard sound uses up to 10% of system resources (especially in gaming). that alone is a reason. even though the onboard is decent, you will still get better sound quality from a decent sound card. I am waiting for my Bluegears B-Enspirer to arrive from NCIX (hopefully tonight).

The Swifttech MC21's will work fine with the Tuniq. Just make certain there is some air flow across the area (a fan in the door for example). The Tuniq being tower in design blows no air downwards to the VRM's. What case are you going to be using?

The Thermaltake Chipset coolers come with packets of thermal paste but I only use Artic Silver 5. The no name stuff is usually crap.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PHyR* 
Great thread, loads of usual information.

Robilar, can you tell me what North and South bridge temperatures you get with the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II coolers?

I would be interested to compaire these to the standard setup as I am thinking of getting a pair for mine.

Also, did you consider modifying the original heatpipe arrangement in order to keep the big copper heat-sinks on the VRM's, e.g. chopping it up a little, this was my intention although I guess it will probably effect the boards re-sale value a little.









With the stock heatpipes, with a thermal probe, I saw the NB hit in the mid 50's celcius under modest overclock. With the Spirit II (with probe inserted under the edge of the HS, the temps were in the mid 30's (about a 16-18 Celcius drop). This really isn't suprising as the heatpipe system Asus uses is a POS for anything other than stock settings.

also the Thermaltakes mount easily.

I never considered chopping up the heatpipes as I might have to return the board under warranty and that would invalidate it. BTW, those copper heatsinks barely make contact with the VRM's to begin with and when you consider the point of the heatpipes is to channel heat from the NB/SB *up to the VRM heatsinks*, the VRMS passive cooling is dealing with heat from two sources. Dumb design if you ask me.

If you look back at post 82 on this thread, you will see the VRM cooling I used from Swifttech to cover the VRM's after removing the heatpipes.

If you look at the pic, I attached (specifically the area where the heatpipes come in contact with the VRM's), you will note that they barely make contact (areas circled in red) with the chips at all.


----------



## dijonace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Sorry that should read, "at" stock. In other words, leave it at 9x and up the fsb gradually till you max out in stability.

Thanks Robilar...as always your answers are very much appreciated!

I decided to go the safe route (since I'm quite the beginner here) and try out the nTune program. I ran the "coarse tuning" option on this card. It ran its course over about 35 minutes and came back with recommended settings. I saved the "Best system.npe" profile and made it default (I remember that it settled on 3450MHz instead of 2500MHz)

Yet when I boot back up...the AI booster still shows 2400MHz. Is ASUS not letting the NTune program override it? Here's the image from my desktop:

http://img232.imageshack.us/my.php?i...erimageat5.jpg

Or perhaps do I make the changes on the AI booster in that "Tuning Panel" section? If that's the case...how can I pull up the saved profile from nTune to match those in the Tuning Panel?


----------



## Robilar

I only use the ntune software for gpu overclocking.

3.45 Ghz is easy with that chip and board but I would recommend doing it yourself out of the bios. Ntune is a bit buggy to begin with (Although its ok for monitoring and overclocking the gpu).

If you need help, post back. My guide covers the basics but I would start by going for 9x375 (which would be 3.375 Ghz). You will need to change some of the settings I listed but a close to 1 Ghz overclock on your chip is a good beginning.


----------



## webdork

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Pictures are a great addition!

I'm all over it - looking forward to it!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Onboard sound uses up to 10% of system resources (especially in gaming). that alone is a reason.

Agreed - I'll add it to the build.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
The Swifttech MC21's will work fine with the Tuniq. Just make certain there is some air flow across the area (a fan in the door for example). The Tuniq being tower in design blows no air downwards to the VRM's. What case are you going to be using?

It's an Antec Titan 550 from my last machine. The case is fairly large, and has good airflow thanks to some mods and custom fan installations I did. Added to my air conditioning setup, the case should stay pretty cool. I shut off the heat vents in the "man room" so it's usually much cooler than the rest of the house (open them in summer of course for AC).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
The Thermaltake Chipset coolers come with packets of thermal paste but I only use Artic Silver 5. The no name stuff is usually crap.

OK, I'll grab some as well. THANKS AGAIN!!!


----------



## Robilar

You should be fine then. Bear in mind (as I mentioned in my guide), if you are going to go dual 8800gtx and a separate sound card AND cooling on the southbridge, that you will be limited to 150mm length for a sound card in the middle slot. (Hence the reason I went with the Bluegears B-Enspirer, its 146mm long). You won't need to worry for awhile as you are buying one gpu for now, but its a waste to buy a sound card that won't fit later.


----------



## dijonace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
If you need help, post back. My guide covers the basics but I would start by going for 9x375 (which would be 3.375 Ghz). You will need to change some of the settings I listed but a close to 1 Ghz overclock on your chip is a good beginning.


Ok I'll go with your recommendation. And I don't mean to hijack this thread with my problems...I'm just trying to learn as much as I can.

When you say 9x375...I assume that means moving up from 9x266.67 (which is where I'm at right now).

Trouble is...I don't see anything in the BIOS that states 266.67. Right now I have my FSB linked at 3:2 ratio per my other thread.

I bet this is one of those things which is sitting right in front of my face but I've got my blinders on I guess!









I figured out that 1066.67 divided by 4 equals 266.75...close enough. So if I'm to go to 300 as a first step...then I change the 1066.67 to 1200?


----------



## webdork

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
its a waste to buy a sound card that won't fit later.

Agreed. I added the one you suggested it's on sale at NewEgg for $95. I think I'm done now. Gonna go ahead and order. Thanks!!!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dijonace* 
Ok I'll go with your recommendation. And I don't mean to hijack this thread with my problems...I'm just trying to learn as much as I can.

When you say 9x375...I assume that means moving up from 9x266.67 (which is where I'm at right now).

Trouble is...I don't see anything in the BIOS that states 266.67. Right now I have my FSB linked at 3:2 ratio per my other thread.

I bet this is one of those things which is sitting right in front of my face but I've got my blinders on I guess!









I figured out that 1066.67 divided by 4 equals 266.75...close enough. So if I'm to go to 300 as a first step...then I change the 1066.67 to 1200?

Good, should have mentioned that. Yes. you will move the 1066 number up. Change your ram settings to unlinked first in case your ram can't handle the fsb increases (you can do the ram later with voltage increases if needed). Also leave all ram timing settings on auto for the time being.

Yes change 1066 to 1200 (300 FSB x9 = 2.7 Ghz). It will be stable for awhile.

Make certain that you have CPU VTT set to 1.55 and manually set your Vcore to 1.35 for starters.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *webdork*


Agreed. I added the one you suggested it's on sale at NewEgg for $95. I think I'm done now. Gonna go ahead and order. Thanks!!!


I paid $130 cdn for it, thats an excellent price. Rakukojin here on the forums (resident audiophile) indicated that the Bluegears provides better sound quality than the X-FI Gamer as well.


----------



## webdork

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I paid $130 cdn for it, thats an excellent price. Rakukojin here on the forums (resident audiophile) indicated that the Bluegears provides better sound quality than the X-FI Gamer as well.

Good to know. I wanted to think ahead on the cooling and placement items to save headaches later. I want to be able to just toss in a new CPU and another 8800GTX and be done with it basically.

EDIT : Order Placed!!!! So Happy! Thanks again - fingers crossed I didn't screw anything up =)


----------



## dijonace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Good, should have mentioned that. Yes. you will move the 1066 number up. Change your ram settings to unlinked first in case your ram can't handle the fsb increases (you can do the ram later with voltage increases if needed). Also leave all ram timing settings on auto for the time being.

Yes change 1066 to 1200 (300 FSB x9 = 2.7 Ghz). It will be stable for awhile.

Make certain that you have CPU VTT set to 1.55 and manually set your Vcore to 1.35 for starters.

Done...stable at 2700







What's next? LMAO. I'm like a kid in a candy store right now!

http://img119.imageshack.us/my.php?i...eat2700xp4.jpg


----------



## Robilar

Simple eh?









Now its time to start increasing the FSB higher. The best test is to do it in 25 Mhz increments (translates to 100Mhz bumps). You should have no issues for the first two until you get over 375. Then some other adjustments may be needed (again refer to my guide).

375 will give you 3.375 Ghz. If you can get that stable, run orthos for an hour or two (while watching the temps on core temp) to make sure its stable and doesn't run too hot. If you get that stable, then we can talk ram and video card overclocking. You should be able to go higher on the cpu but your cooling may be a limitation at the top end.


----------



## dijonace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Simple eh?









Only with your help.









Ok to bump it up to 375 under those same voltage conditions?


----------



## Robilar

Yes. What cpu cooling are you using?

Also, for 325 and 350 vcore should be ok. You may have to up vcore to 1.4 for 350-375 (you will be safe up to 1.55 in vcore but temps will start to accumulate quickly)


----------



## dijonace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Yes. What cpu cooling are you using?

Also, for 325 and 350 vcore should be ok. You may have to up vcore to 1.4 for 350-375 (you will be safe up to 1.55 in vcore but temps will start to accumulate quickly)


Thermaltake CL-P0114 120mm CPU Cooler

I'll be back in a couple of hours...I'll try making the suggested changes above.

Thanks again Robilar!


----------



## Robilar

Ah you mean the big typhoon. That should certainly be fine.


----------



## esco

Been trying the recommendations u gave past 2 day Robligar. Still for some reason cannot seem to pass 3150. Only thing i can think of to try would be maybe to up memory vltage to 2.3. Right now i am thinking it is the ram limiting me. Have given thoughts to the PSU also but PC P&C are supposed to be well made so not sure.


----------



## Robilar

Have you tried overclocking the cpu with the ram set to unlinked?

The ram can definitely hold back the cpu if they are being jointly overclocked.


----------



## beaglestorm

I have the same ram (OCZ SLI PC8500) and using the latest 0903 BIOS. I think have noticed the same performance benefit you describe running the ram at a lower speed. But I just want to confirm because it still seems really strange.

I am running an e6300 Rev L2 at 7x1840. My OCZ ram is stable at 4-4-4-10-1T @ 1066mhz yet most of my Everest Memory tests show the same 4-4-4-10-1T timings at 920mhz to be quite a bit faster, especially the Memory Read(~9990 vs. 9100). The only change is the memory speed. Is this the same phenomenon you were describing or did you have slower timings at higher the MHZ. Thanks


----------



## esco

Yup have them set to unlinked. FSB is set to 1400 currently. I tried 25 increments and would immediately lock up when i try past 9x350. PC would not POST or if it did i would get BSOD during vista startup. Have not even touched the memory yet. I also do not feel safe bringing up Vcore to high.

This memory seem to be great if you want to work at advertised specs butnot that good of a overcclocker. Again this is only speculation so far about the memory. Could be something else that i am over looking.


----------



## Robilar

I have never been a fan of Patriot (had two pairs in the past with poor performance). The thing is the best overclocking ram for this board is anything with Micron D9's. The Patriots are using Infineon IC's. As you suggested correctly, they are decent at stock but not strong overclockers.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *beaglestorm* 
I have the same ram (OCZ SLI PC8500) and using the latest 0903 BIOS. I think have noticed the same performance benefit you describe running the ram at a lower speed. But I just want to confirm because it still seems really strange.

I am running an e6300 Rev L2 at 7x1840. My OCZ ram is stable at 4-4-4-10-1T @ 1066mhz yet most of my Everest Memory tests show the same 4-4-4-10-1T timings at 920mhz to be quite a bit faster, especially the Memory Read(~9990 vs. 9100). The only change is the memory speed. Is this the same phenomenon you were describing or did you have slower timings at higher the MHZ. Thanks


Yes that is correct. 1T timings are much faster than 2T almost regardless of clock speeds. I tried the ram both ways and 1T @ 800MHZ with tight timings (I run 4-4-4-8) is faster than 1066 at 2T regardless of timings.

BTW 460 FSB on an E6300 is very nice. You should be able to get close to 500 FSB if you put some kind of active cooling on the nb/sb.


----------



## dijonace

Stable at 2925MHz

http://img299.imageshack.us/my.php?i...2925mhzzm7.jpg

Next question...to quote you: "You may have to up vcore to 1.4 for 350-375"...how do you determine if you need to up the vcore when you hit 350??


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dijonace* 
Stable at 2925MHz

http://img299.imageshack.us/my.php?i...2925mhzzm7.jpg

Next question...to quote you: "You may have to up vcore to 1.4 for 350-375"...how do you determine if you need to up the vcore when you hit 350??

Run orthos,if fail then is time to raise the volts.And that screen don't mean you are stable.Run orthos for @ least 1 hr.If is no stable going to fail fast.This is the screen you need to be sure your oc is stable or not.


----------



## Robilar

Right Alex. Orthos will push your cpu to its limit. If it doesn't crash and your temps are reasonable you should be fine.


----------



## dijonace

Thanks for the reply. Ran the orthos beta test for just over an hour. Zero errors. Maximum CPU temperature I saw was 48 degrees C during the 8K test.

I just took a look at PC probe after the test was done and saw a red section for the CPU VTT at 1.62.

http://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?i...warningtn8.jpg

Should I make a change to my voltage?

Right now my voltage settings in the BIOS are at:

1.35V
Auto
Auto
Auto
Auto
1.55V
Auto

Robilar...I've seen your settings on image #6 where you have them at 1.53125, 2.25, 1.30, etc but I wasn't sure if I should go down that path yet until I hit 350fsb.


----------



## 2dxtreme

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I tried to make sense of your build log. What board are you using? You list having purchased the Asus board but referred to checking with EVGA for support (but did you get an ATI card or an Nvidia one?)

If you provide a quick summary here of your issues with the Asus P5N32-E board, I may be able to assist you.

Your pictures show the Asus board so you can see the confusion.

the ram btw, should go in the two blue slots (or two white slots)

Your cpu fan should be oriented to blow air out of the back of the case

The cpu fan header should use the bottom (or right) 3 pins so that it locks on the tab supplied.

*Edit*, ok clicked on your newegg link and saw that you got an evga card.

So your assumption is that the card is defective or the board?

If there was a broken memory clip out of the box, you may have gotten a returned board (not new) and possibly defective. Shipping would not break a memory clip.

C2D E6400
EVGA 7600GT
Asus P5N32-E Plus
Crucial Ballistix 2x512 MB PC-2 6400
Apevia 600W Power Supply

Are these specs correct? (You should fill out your system specs, it took me awhile of jumping around the pages of your log to figure out what you actually bought)

robilar i updated my system info for ya. those specs are correct just decided to get the c2d e6300 instead. i have sent the motherboard back and video card back today. how can i determing if the memory goes into the 2 blue or 2 white what is the difference? i noticed the 2 white slots were easier to get the ram in rather than the 2 blue but that could have also been from the broken clips cause it was the 2 blue's that were broke already. i have my tuniq blowing towards the rear of the case with 2 fans blowing out the back right in back of that, 1 top fan blowing outward and 1 fan in front blowing in. should i add more if so what size and where and which way should they blow? what other coolers if any would u recommend i get?


----------



## PHyR

Just some additional info regarding North and Southbridge temperatures:

I attached thermal probes to mine last night standard heatpipe cooling, mild overclock @ 1500 FSB) and found them running at:

SB 50c â€" 60c â€" under load
NB 75c â€" 85c â€" under load









Thatâ€™s in a Antec p180 case with plenty of air-flow.

Pretty insane temperatures if you ask me, just ordered a pair of Spirit II chipset coolers as recommenced in this guide so we will see what difference I get.


----------



## cognoscenti

Its a hot board for sure.


----------



## PHyR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
Its a hot board for sure.

Thatâ€™s a hot picture for sure!









Am I the only one getting these obscene temperatures? Would be interesting to see other peopleâ€™s results.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dijonace* 
Thanks for the reply. Ran the orthos beta test for just over an hour. Zero errors. Maximum CPU temperature I saw was 48 degrees C during the 8K test.

I just took a look at PC probe after the test was done and saw a red section for the CPU VTT at 1.62.

http://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?i...warningtn8.jpg

Should I make a change to my voltage?

Right now my voltage settings in the BIOS are at:

1.35V
Auto
Auto
Auto
Auto
1.55V
Auto

Robilar...I've seen your settings on image #6 where you have them at 1.53125, 2.25, 1.30, etc but I wasn't sure if I should go down that path yet until I hit 350fsb.


Your settings are fine. 48C is very decent for temps as well. Go into the pc probe config and up the threshold for the cpu vtt amount. 1.62 is fine (As you can see by your temps, it has no effect). Remember that pc probe wasn't specifically designed for the 680i boards (which is why the cpu temps are so far off).

You can leave off upping to other voltage settings until you hit a higher overclock. Always try before upping voltages. This board is surprisingly stable on overclocks without a ton of voltage increases.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PHyR* 
Just some additional info regarding North and Southbridge temperatures:

I attached thermal probes to mine last night standard heatpipe cooling, mild overclock @ 1500 FSB) and found them running at:

SB 50c â€" 60c â€" under load
NB 75c â€" 85c â€" under load









Thatâ€™s in a Antec p180 case with plenty of air-flow.

Pretty insane temperatures if you ask me, just ordered a pair of Spirit II chipset coolers as recommenced in this guide so we will see what difference I get.


Hence my guide explaining that this board absolutely needs active cooling on the nb/sb (even at stock they get fairly warm).


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *2dxtreme* 
robilar i updated my system info for ya. those specs are correct just decided to get the c2d e6300 instead. i have sent the motherboard back and video card back today. how can i determing if the memory goes into the 2 blue or 2 white what is the difference? i noticed the 2 white slots were easier to get the ram in rather than the 2 blue but that could have also been from the broken clips cause it was the 2 blue's that were broke already. i have my tuniq blowing towards the rear of the case with 2 fans blowing out the back right in back of that, 1 top fan blowing outward and 1 fan in front blowing in. should i add more if so what size and where and which way should they blow? what other coolers if any would u recommend i get?


The ram goes in either the two blue or two white slots. doesn't matter as long as you match the colors. The white slots may be easier depending on your cooler mount. Use whatever works for you.

As I mentioned, if the clips were broken, that was likely a used or rma'd board and its just as well you returned it.

The Tuniq is pretty much one of the best cpu coolers. What you need to ensure is more intake fans. From your description, you have 3 fans removing air and one fan bringing air in. You may end up with negative air pressure inside your case which can interrupt air flow.

assuming the pic I linked is the correct case, I see that you have a front intake, top output, 2 rear output and a door intake. Do you have the door intake fan mounted?

1 x 80mm UV blue LED fan - front (included)
1 x 80mm UV blue LED fan - top (included)
2 x 80mm UV blue LED fan - rear (included)
1 x 120mm UV blue LED fan - side (included)
*1 x 80mm fan -front between front panel and 3.5" drive cage (optional)* (Add a fan here, it can't hurt)


----------



## Mr Pink57

I am having some major issues with this board.

I set ran Orthos on it on all base clocks just to make sure everything was fine. Orthos did not even go 2 hours before it errored. So I set it up again and this time stopped all apps and it restarted the computer at some point in the night. I did update to the latest BIOS and have disabled all things that are causing issues. What seems to be the issue is anytime I mess with the memory voltage I get a BSOD. I put the ram up to 2v as that is where it is rated and it immediately went on me. If anyone has the latest memtest please pm it or link me there.

Also I got a L2 e6300 and when I go to check my multi I have the option of going from x6 to x50?

pink


----------



## Robilar

http://www.memtest.org/

Here is the memtest link. You'll want the pre-compiled bootable iso (burn it onto a cd and boot with it) version 1.70

In the bios, you may have the option to change the multi upwards but it will not save it.

Leave the ram at auto settings for now and work on the cpu overclock. Make certain to set the ram to unlinked.


----------



## dijonace

Up to 350 and everything is running ok. Ran the orthos test for a little bit over an hour and no issues. Temperature didn't vary much either with the slight upgrade. Also changed the cpu vtt amount so that the 1.62v doesn't flash red anymore









Moving on to 375 now.

I continue to learn more and more each day here...and I have you personally to thank!

I guess it probably makes sense now to go out get some of the other cooling mechanisms you recommend. But I'm a little unsure of what each of these 3 items actually do:

2 of these
http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merc...tegory_Code=40

My concern here is that my sound card extends over the battery. (Is that where these go?)

http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merc...tegory_Code=40

Not really sure what this one is either.

and 2 sets of these?

http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merc...tegory_Code=40

I don't object to spending another $100-$150 on a system that I've already spent close to $3000 on....just want to make sure what I'm buying!


----------



## cognoscenti

I agree, im interested in buying some of these coolers too.

There looks to be little room down by the first pci slot where my 8800 is so i dont know how i would fit on one of these????


----------



## Mr Pink57

Orthos stopped after 9 minutes on stock settings I do not know what is going on. When I disable all the things you recommend to disable most of the time the comp wont boot. My guess is bad mobo? I did two passes of memtest and everything went fine.

pink


----------



## dijonace

Orthos just failed for me at 375. Here is the text from the failure:

Type: Blend - stress CPU and RAM Min: 8 Max: 4096 InPlace: No Mem: 1791 Time: 15
CPU: 3375MHz FSB: 375MHz [375MHz x 9.0 est.]
CPU: 3375MHz FSB: 375MHz [375MHz x 9.0 est.]
3/22/2007 3:03 PM
Launching 2 threads...
Using CPU #0
Beginning a continuous self-test to check your computer.
Press Stop to end this test.
Test 1, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922945 using 1024K FFT length.
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 1.759218604e+013, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Torture Test ran 0 minutes 3 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.

From what I read in this forum I think I'm supposed to bump up the vcore voltage at this point? But only in small increments?

I also ran the trial version of Everest to see how my temperatures were holding up...

http://img123.imageshack.us/my.php?image=tempsof2.jpg

Should I have reason to be concerned about the ~60 degrees C on the videocards? If so...doing a bit more research on these forums and people seem to like this one:

http://www.antec.com/us/productDetai...?ProdID=77094#

And I've got 2 open slots for 2 of these...


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dijonace* 
Up to 350 and everything is running ok. Ran the orthos test for a little bit over an hour and no issues. Temperature didn't vary much either with the slight upgrade. Also changed the cpu vtt amount so that the 1.62v doesn't flash red anymore









Moving on to 375 now.

I continue to learn more and more each day here...and I have you personally to thank!

I guess it probably makes sense now to go out get some of the other cooling mechanisms you recommend. But I'm a little unsure of what each of these 3 items actually do:

2 of these
http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merc...tegory_Code=40

My concern here is that my sound card extends over the battery. (Is that where these go?)

http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merc...tegory_Code=40

Not really sure what this one is either.

and 2 sets of these?

http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merc...tegory_Code=40

I don't object to spending another $100-$150 on a system that I've already spent close to $3000 on....just want to make sure what I'm buying!

First, there is an issue with sound cards length and two 8800's with respect to southbridge cooling. If you use the thermaltake extreme spirit II's that I am using, your sound card will not be able to exceed 150mm in length (again if you are using two 8800's. If one then the sound card can go lower or alternatively, you can rotate the spirit more).

Have a look at the pics in posts 5 and 6 of this thread. I demonstrated the space issues. I was able to install two 8800gtx and two thermaltakes with a sound card but the sound card has to be short.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
I agree, im interested in buying some of these coolers too.

There looks to be little room down by the first pci slot where my 8800 is so i dont know how i would fit on one of these????

Plenty of room based on their design.

Here is when I installed just the nb one.


----------



## dijonace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
First, there is an issue with sound cards length and two 8800's with respect to southbridge cooling. If you use the thermaltake extreme spirit II's that I am using, your sound card will not be able to exceed 150mm in length (again if you are using two 8800's. If one then the sound card can go lower or alternatively, you can rotate the spirit more).

Have a look at the pics in posts 5 and 6 of this thread. I demonstrated the space issues. I was able to install two 8800gtx and two thermaltakes with a sound card but the sound card has to be short.

I will take another look at the pics. I had already purchased the xi-fi xtreme gamer soundcard as part of my newegg invoice.

Back to the 375...up the vcore a bit?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dijonace* 
Orthos just failed for me at 375. Here is the text from the failure:

Type: Blend - stress CPU and RAM Min: 8 Max: 4096 InPlace: No Mem: 1791 Time: 15
CPU: 3375MHz FSB: 375MHz [375MHz x 9.0 est.]
CPU: 3375MHz FSB: 375MHz [375MHz x 9.0 est.]
3/22/2007 3:03 PM
Launching 2 threads...
Using CPU #0
Beginning a continuous self-test to check your computer.
Press Stop to end this test.
Test 1, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922945 using 1024K FFT length.
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 1.759218604e+013, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Torture Test ran 0 minutes 3 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.

*From what I read in this forum I think I'm supposed to bump up the vcore voltage at this point? But only in small increments?*I also ran the trial version of Everest to see how my temperatures were holding up...

http://img123.imageshack.us/my.php?image=tempsof2.jpg

*Should I have reason to be concerned about the ~60 degrees C on the videocards?* If so...doing a bit more research on these forums and people seem to like this one:

http://www.antec.com/us/productDetai...?ProdID=77094#

And I've got 2 open slots for 2 of these...


Time to go to the pic i provided in post 2 of this thread and set some more voltages. Vcore, go up .2 at a time(do not exceed 1.55) until it hits stable again.

60C for video cards is fine. My gtx runs at 60C idle and close to 70C load. That is fine.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dijonace* 
I will take another look at the pics. I had already purchased the xi-fi xtreme gamer soundcard as part of my newegg invoice.

Back to the 375...up the vcore a bit?

If you can exchange it, get the Bluegears B-Enspirer. Mine came in today. It provides better sound quality than the X-FI gamer, its the same price. And its 146mm long, fits perfectly.


----------



## Robilar

The swifttech MC21's you linked worked out great. (I posted pics a couple of pages back). The thermaltake spirits are smaller than the thermalright (And cheaper). I got close to 18C drop on my nb alone with one and 15c on the sb.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr Pink57* 
Orthos stopped after 9 minutes on stock settings I do not know what is going on. When I disable all the things you recommend to disable most of the time the comp wont boot. My guess is bad mobo? I did two passes of memtest and everything went fine.

pink

Try running it with one stick of ram in slot 3 or 4. Its possible the motherboard is bad but I'm more inclined to believe its the ram. Swap out the sticks (Try each separately). Memtest will not show if its a compatibility issue with the ram itself.

This sticker on the box made me a little nervous when I first bought it.


----------



## cognoscenti

I have found ThermalTake Extreme Spirit II Chipset Cooler LED do I need one or two???

Are they easy to fit?

Is there a guide on removing the parts ad putting these on?


----------



## 2dxtreme

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
The ram goes in either the two blue or two white slots. doesn't matter as long as you match the colors. The white slots may be easier depending on your cooler mount. Use whatever works for you.

As I mentioned, if the clips were broken, that was likely a used or rma'd board and its just as well you returned it.

The Tuniq is pretty much one of the best cpu coolers. What you need to ensure is more intake fans. From your description, you have 3 fans removing air and one fan bringing air in. You may end up with negative air pressure inside your case which can interrupt air flow.

assuming the pic I linked is the correct case, I see that you have a front intake, top output, 2 rear output and a door intake. Do you have the door intake fan mounted?

1 x 80mm UV blue LED fan - front (included)
1 x 80mm UV blue LED fan - top (included)
2 x 80mm UV blue LED fan - rear (included)
1 x 120mm UV blue LED fan - side (included)
*1 x 80mm fan -front between front panel and 3.5" drive cage (optional)* (Add a fan here, it can't hurt)

that is the case i have and i did have to dismount the door fan for it hit the tuniq. i'll go about looking thru the case this weekend and see where i can add some more intakes.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
I have found ThermalTake Extreme Spirit II Chipset Cooler LED do I need one or two???

Are they easy to fit?

Is there a guide on removing the parts ad putting these on?









You need 2 once you remove the pipes you want your system,look nice and cooler.And yes they are piece of cake to install.Use a pliers to put preassure in the plastic pins in the back of the mobo,and hold the other side and you all set.
I recommend the jing thing for the sb too.Like that you can fit any card and clear the cmos battery.As long you can offset the way you installed.


----------



## dijonace

Robilar,

This look like a decent shopping list based upon what we discussed?

1 of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16829127002

2 of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835116018

and 2 of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835200019


----------



## Robilar

The sound card is perfect. Mine is going in tonight. The rosewill slot cooler may help, haven't tried it. The other link is invalid.


----------



## dijonace

Yeah newegg is experiencing database issues tonight. That 2nd item (2 of them) is:

Thermaltake CL-C0034 Copper Fan&Heatsinks - Retail

Try the link again when you get a chance.


----------



## Robilar

No need, those are the right ones.


----------



## dijonace

Order submitted. In the meantime I'll play the the vcore at that next FSB setting.

Thanks again Robilar!


----------



## alexisd

Working with the 0903 Bios.So far good indeed less volts needed.Posting results later.


----------



## Robilar

Looking forward to your results Alex


----------



## alexisd

No a go.Im testing the same set up like with the 0902.Same volts.Even orthos fail @ lower settings in volts.
Hey [Robilar i never clear the cmos when i flash the bios.Maybe thats the problem?Here is everest 3.80,im running orthos now,thats why the high temps.


----------



## Robilar

High 50's for 3.8 is acceptible. Nice


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


High 50's for 3.8 is acceptible. Nice


3.80 is the version of everest[Robilar]?The set up is 3.52
Here is the set up.I lowered the memory a bit to see if help to make the oc stable first.I lowered everything to see if is stable @ easy 3.00 all in low volts.In the 2nd attachment.


----------



## dijonace

When using orthos to stress the system...I've always used the default settings:

Blend: Stress CPU and RAM with the sensors just on temperature

Is that what I should be using or sensors on other items?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
3.80 is the version of everest[Robilar]?The set up is 3.52
Here is the set up.I lowered the memory a bit to see if help to make the oc stable first.I lowered everything to see if is stable @ easy 3.00 all in low volts.In the 2nd attachment.

Misread the post. You are giving your chip a good workout. Have you run any of the 3dmark benches at different levels?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dijonace* 
When using orthos to stress the system...I've always used the default settings:

Blend: Stress CPU and RAM with the sensors just on temperature

Is that what I should be using or sensors on other items?

The blend is best if you are upping fsb.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Misread the post. You are giving your chip a good workout. Have you run any of the 3dmark benches at different levels?


Yeah.Been busy having some fun with this mobo and the cpu.Here is some numbers.I don't even oc my card yet.Im slow,but like to get to the bottom of the whole settings.Most of the times.


----------



## alexisd

0903 look like the new bios are good and yes they are,working good.I got stable @ 3.32 with less volts than before.


----------



## Mr Pink57

Changed to other slots and board did go stable. I gamed for 6hrs (I have been sick all week so this is all I can do) with no BSOD's. I tried to do a low overclock of 2.21ghz and the BIOS froze constantly on me so I had to pull the battery. I am returning the board and I think I am going to take my chances with the QuadGT









pink


----------



## alexisd

What bios you have now?Im shooting now and running orthos @ 3.4 and 1.45 volts.This bios are better than the 0902.I only remove the battery once and was because wrong settings in memory so far this board rock.


----------



## Telecide

Hi. So this is my first post on here. Just wanted to say thanks for all the helpful info. I've finally settled on the p5n32e-sli after months of aimless clicking on new egg's site thanks to the info in here. I'll be upgrading from an Asus A7V8X, so I figure I'm way overdo. Just a couple of questions.

Can I assume that if a particular stick of memory is known to work that a higher end stick of the same brand will also work. Like Corsair DDR2-800 works, can I assume that Corsair DDR2-1000 will work? or is that still a gamble?

Also I'm looking at a few cases, the Thermaltake Armor, the Coolermaster 830, the Antec 900, Silverstone TJ09, and Antec P180. I have a Lian-Li case now that I thought was pretty expensive at 70 bucks. But the Silverstone and the Coolermaster are pushing 300 bucks! What's so great about them in comparison to others? I'd really prefer aluminum and I'm planning to do some overclocking. I'll be happy with getting an E6600 into the low 3s. But I really don't want to have to shear off screws to make things fit. I've put together a system from components before but that's it. I even wimped out and got the guy at the computer store to install the heatsink/fan for me.









I'm also somewhat concerned about cooling because I smoke and my apartment is very dusty. I'm considering water cooling as a way to keep the dust out of the machine. The fan noise doesn't really bother me.

Anyway, thanks and any suggestions or advice are appreciated.


----------



## Robilar

Better rated ram (speeds) typically has higher quality IC's (The chips)

http://ramlist.ath.cx/ddr2/

Getting RAM with Micron D9's like the Corsair C5 8500 vs. Promo's IC's like the Corsair C4 6400 makes a signifigant difference in overclocking ceiling.

I've had an Armor, an Antec 900 and currently have a stacker 830. All are excellent but bang for buck go with the armor.


----------



## Telecide

thanks


----------



## t4ct1c47

Slightly off topic, but has anyone been successful in running 4GB of RAM useing 4x1GB?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
I have found ThermalTake Extreme Spirit II Chipset Cooler LED do I need one or two???

Are they easy to fit?

Is there a guide on removing the parts ad putting these on?









The stock chipset coolers are connected by eight little plastic pins with springs on them. There are four for the NorthBirdge, four for the SouthBridge. To remove the chipset coolers you simply flip the motherboard over and use some small pliers or tweezers to squeeze the plastic pins on the reverse side and then simply push them through. Be careful when you do this so as to not exert stress onto the motherboard's PCB.

After you have removed the stock coolers I strongly recommend that you use a small amount of pure alchohol on a cotton pud to wipe away the stock grease before reapplying some Arcitic Silver 5. You can then install your new chipset coolers by simply pushing them into the mounting pins that the stock coolers used.


----------



## charger265

Hey Robilar

Asus has removed 0903 from US page. Could you please supply a link for 0903.

Please anyone with 0903 please post a valid link


----------



## alexisd

Follow robilar guide to get the 0903 bios.
Here is the same oc but less volts with the 0903 bios.If i go for 3.52 going to need some extra volts.Maybe going to stay safe here.As long the temps going up a little more.I know i can do it but the temps going to be around the 60c mark.


----------



## charger265

Hey alxisd

I cant find robilar's guide to bios 0903 is it in this post and if so what post no#


----------



## Robilar

Charger, The guide in this thread (post 1







) is based on the 0903 bios.

Anyone that needs the 0903, PM me or list an e-mail address and I will send it to you directly.

T4C, I personally haven't tried 4x1 GB on this board.


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *charger265*


Hey alxisd

I cant find robilar's guide to bios 0903 is it in this post and if so what post no#


I was meaning "the guide to get bios 0903" Not a guide about 0903


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


Slightly off topic, but has anyone been successful in running 4GB of RAM useing 4x1GB?


Not yet. Supposedly the board will only recognize 3Mb when running XP 32 bit. ASUS says for 4Mb to be recognized you need a 64 bit O/S.


----------



## Robilar

PM sent charger


----------



## dijonace

Robilar...shipment came in.









Working on it right now.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dijonace*


Robilar...shipment came in.









Working on it right now.


Pics.Plz.Like that any owner of this mobo can take a look.
Final orthos run.Stable,going to give a break for couples of days and try to go a little higher.Lower volts with the 0903 bios,The same oc with 0902 need the whole 1.57,now 1.55.Got some extra room for little more.Other than that need water.


----------



## cognoscenti

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=181724


----------



## Robilar

Nice cogno. Keep going


----------



## cognoscenti

Thanks, see how my HDTach is more eratic than Alexis one.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Yeah.Been busy having some fun with this mobo and the cpu.Here is some numbers.I don't even oc my card yet.Im slow,but like to get to the bottom of the whole settings.Most of the times.



Your *burst speed* is miles higher ?????????









Mine (on the right) shows 201 on HDTach and Alexis (left) is 334.4, higher than scsi


----------



## Robilar

Thats odd considering you are using raided raptors and he's using regular WD sata II drives.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Thats odd considering you are using raided raptors and he's using regular WD sata II drives.



thats why im wondering.....glad youre here i have a problem.

*I moved the FSB from 1500 to 1600...oops wouldnt boot...*

-eventually the splash? screen came up then froze
-i took the battery out ,waited 2 mins then put it back and rebooted.
-now im in the bios setup and everything has cleared
-so i enable the raid in the bios so that i can get my OS running.
-now on boot the array is seen as healthy but i get

*BOOTMGR is missing
Press CTRL+Alt+Del to restart*


----------



## Robilar

You corrupted the boot partition on your raided drives. That sucks big.

What multi were you trying to run 400 FSB at and at what vcore?

Also are you running a dual boot system with XP and Vista on the same raid array?


----------



## cognoscenti

Non dual boot at the moment, just vista ultimate x64.

was 9x 400 core was around 1.5 i think.

Hopefully I just lost the boot files.

Im going to try a repair from the vista dvd


----------



## cognoscenti

Yippee!

Good gracious that was a bit scary thinking i lost my stuff!!

Back up and running after running repair from the Vista dvd!

Phew!


----------



## Robilar

Thats good. I read your system rig specs and it listed both operating systems. If it was a dual boot the repair cd would not have worked.


----------



## USlatin

I am hoping to find a board with six RAID-able SATAII ports within the ASUS line that will OC like this one. For this I am willing to spend the cost of my DS3 and an additional $100 wich I'd save on an ok RAID controller, maybe a bit more. So I am looking at the Striker Extreme and all others that are as affordable or more affordable, it kills me not to be able to get the PNG-E or the P5N32 since both boards kick arse on the OC'ing arena... but I'd rather get a better card than have to stick with my DS3 and pay for expansion cards ... Can someone guide me? I am so very lost...


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Thats good. I read your system rig specs and it listed both operating systems. If it was a dual boot the repair cd would not have worked.


Yeah I moved away from that as it was pain if anything went wrong.


----------



## JoC

Quote:



"So I am looking at the Striker Extreme and all others that are as affordable or more affordable, it kills me not to be able to get the PNG-E or the P5N32 since both boards kick arse on the OC'ing arena"


The Striker Extreme and the P5N32-E are the exact same board. The SE just has an LCD post panel, an onboard power switch, a few more vregs around the cpu, and maybe another very minor difference I can't recall.

Some people have actually peeled a sticker off their P5N32-E boards to expose the Striker Extreme wording









Basically, unless you want to use the board as some sort of test bench or something, it doesn't offer enough vs. the P5N32-E to justify the price.


----------



## Robilar

Also, the Striker has a different bios and doesn;t overclock anywhere near as well as the p5n32-e. Sdumper who used to be a regular here tested the striker extensively. He tried the striker with 3 different chips and couldn't hit 500FSB. You are right as well JoC, the extra price does not justify a board with more bling and less performance.


----------



## 00Smurf

Well since this seems to be the P5n32-e sli thread i'll post here. Robilar your posts have been very informative thank you.

so according to ups my package is out for delivery. It went out at 6:30am and its 2:00pm now. so getting kinda antsy for it to be here. Basically my questions are as follows:

1. There seems to be alot of problems with this board not coming configured properly, what will i have to change in the bios for my cpu and ram to function properly. I have already D/l'd the 903 bios and it is waiting on a flash drive for when the mobo arrives. I know first thing i do before doing anything is to change the voltages and flash the bios. I also ordered some fans to put on the NB and SB. After reading your post I'm going to get those spirit II from thermaltake. So that s it for question one. Basically what settings to do when i first set it up.

2. what will be the best o/c settings for my cpu and ram. I noticed you said leave it a a 7x multi and take it to 500 fsb?

3. J/c on this one. Why do you have to disable the spread spectrum and all those other bits in the bios for a good o/c. What do they do when they are enabled?

4. Are the compatibility problems fixed with the 8800gts and the x-fi?

5. wish me luck

Here are the parts that i ordered:

ASUS P5N32-E SLI LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 680i SLI ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
Arctic Silver CMQ-22G The high-density, ceramic-based thermal compound
Intel Core 2 Duo E6300 Conroe 1.86GHz LGA 775 Processor Model BX80557E6300 - OEM (open box)
Dynatron DF124028BH-3/L 40mm 2 Ball Cooling Fan Fan for 1U System - oem
EVGA 640-P2-N821-AR GeForce 8800GTS 640MB GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Video Card - retail
CORSAIR XMS2 DOMINATOR 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model TWIN2X2048-6400C4D - retail
FAN CORSAIR XMS|CMXAF1 RTL - retail
COOLER MASTER RL-MUA-EBU1 AQUAGATE Mini R80 / R120 Liquid Cooling System - retail
OCZ GameXStream OCZ700GXSSLI ATX12V 700W Power Supply - retail
Antec Performance One P180B Black Mid Tower Computer Case

The parts that are migrating over form my old system:
Logitech G15 Keyboard
Gateway Fpd2275w 22inch widescreen HD Display
Soundblaster X-fi extreme gamer fatality edition
Microsoft intellimouse explorer 4.0

well there is everything what do you think?


----------



## 00Smurf

Yes its all here! opening now


----------



## 00Smurf

well goign to best buy to get some hd's


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *00Smurf* 
Well since this seems to be the P5n32-e sli thread i'll post here. Robilar your posts have been very informative thank you.

so according to ups my package is out for delivery. It went out at 6:30am and its 2:00pm now. so getting kinda antsy for it to be here. Basically my questions are as follows:

1. There seems to be alot of problems with this board not coming configured properly, what will i have to change in the bios for my cpu and ram to function properly. I have already D/l'd the 903 bios and it is waiting on a flash drive for when the mobo arrives. I know first thing i do before doing anything is to change the voltages and flash the bios. I also ordered some fans to put on the NB and SB. After reading your post I'm going to get those spirit II from thermaltake. So that s it for question one. Basically what settings to do when i first set it up.

2. what will be the best o/c settings for my cpu and ram. I noticed you said leave it a a 7x multi and take it to 500 fsb?

3. J/c on this one. Why do you have to disable the spread spectrum and all those other bits in the bios for a good o/c. What do they do when they are enabled?

4. Are the compatibility problems fixed with the 8800gts and the x-fi?

5. wish me luck

Here are the parts that i ordered:

ASUS P5N32-E SLI LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 680i SLI ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
Arctic Silver CMQ-22G The high-density, ceramic-based thermal compound
Intel Core 2 Duo E6300 Conroe 1.86GHz LGA 775 Processor Model BX80557E6300 - OEM (open box)
Dynatron DF124028BH-3/L 40mm 2 Ball Cooling Fan Fan for 1U System - oem
EVGA 640-P2-N821-AR GeForce 8800GTS 640MB GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Video Card - retail
CORSAIR XMS2 DOMINATOR 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model TWIN2X2048-6400C4D - retail
FAN CORSAIR XMS|CMXAF1 RTL - retail
COOLER MASTER RL-MUA-EBU1 AQUAGATE Mini R80 / R120 Liquid Cooling System - retail
OCZ GameXStream OCZ700GXSSLI ATX12V 700W Power Supply - retail
Antec Performance One P180B Black Mid Tower Computer Case

The parts that are migrating over form my old system:
Logitech G15 Keyboard
Gateway Fpd2275w 22inch widescreen HD Display
Soundblaster X-fi extreme gamer fatality edition
Microsoft intellimouse explorer 4.0

well there is everything what do you think?


1. Read the front page of the guide with the various items to disable in the bios.

2. With an E6300. Put vcore to 1.35 and start at 7x375. work your way up in 25 mhz increments. Eventually you will need to increase vcore to up to 1.45 (or slightly higher depends on cpu stepping). Make sure cpu vtt is maxed out at 1.55

3. Spread spectrum increases voltage to various sub-systems in the motherboard. Turn all of them off to ensure there is no interference with the oc process.

4. 0602 bios removed crackling issues some users were having with the x-fi and sli'd 8800's. One problem you will have though is that the x-fi is going to bang into your southbridge cooler (the thermaltake). Thats one of the reasons I went with the bluegears b-enspirer. This will only be an issue if you use the middle pci slot if you have a pair of 8800 cards for sli. With one gpu, you can use one of the bottom slots for the sound card. If you intend to go sli later, pick up a thermalright hr-05 sli for the southbridge as it will fit with an x-fi card (They are more expenive though)

5. I don't think you will need much luck, you are better organized than I was.


----------



## 00Smurf

thanks for the reply. Definantly helpful. just got the motherboards into the case. going slow so as not to screw up


----------



## cognoscenti

Any ideas why my raid is slow??? 201.4MB/sec now


----------



## Robilar

I'm still poking around. I pm'd a guy I know at Xtreme running this board raided. He might have some idea.


----------



## cognoscenti

Superb! Thanks.
Can i reload drivers form the MB CD?


----------



## Robilar

No. Use the newer ones from the nvidia site.

http://www.nvidia.com/object/nforce_...a32_15.00.html


----------



## 00Smurf

well its all together. firing it up for the first time. :fingers crossed:


----------



## PhelanJKell

This is mainly toward Robilar, but also towards other's who posted. I spent most of my spare time at work *computer technician, waiting for virus scans and so forth to finish, I know what a hard job right? lol* reading all the posts on here and I have also been looking at maybe going with Intel and a Conroe.. Because of this whole posts, and Robilar's awesome support, which I may say is one of the best I have seen. + rep for that by far.

So my question is to Robilar, and others who have this board, would this be a good choice for a MB/Conroe combo. I was looking for a great combo of hardware that OC's great.

I have only recently got into OC'ing with this rig, and it seems there are alot of differences in MB's between mine and the new MB, esp Intel. Please any help is appreciated. If there is another MB you would suggest I would appreciate it. Thanks ahead of time, thanks guys and great read, keep it coming I am enjoying this! I am trying to get a list of components made for a not to in the future purchase, thanks.


----------



## Robilar

Here is the thing. I've now had the board since early december and its truly great. I had a p5w dh with slid 7900gtx (using modded drivers), then went to the evga 680i (waste of time). I returned the evga and went with the asus mostly on faith as there were no reviews out at the time. I went through 4 bios releases and during that time, other than misflashing 0702 (buggy beta bios from hell), I haven't had a single issue.

The 680i boards are very easy to overclock and the asus P5N32-E is the only one that will consistently hit 500 FSB (assuming you get a decent stepping).

The fact that I'm a big fan of SLI drove my decision. I even had a pair of 8800gtx for a month until I returned one (immature drivers, I'll buy another in a month or two once the 100 series drivers are released).

With that said, if you have no intentions of going SLI ever, the the Asus Commando is a stronger overclocker and so is the Asus P5B Premium. consider however how cheap video cards become and how easy it is to add a second card into sli down the road for a major boost in performance, I personally feel its worth it.

My two cents but this board plus a conroe of any speed with some decent ram will give you a stable, fast platform.


----------



## alexisd

Hey[Robilar ]I vote for sticky this guide.Really this board start to pick up some attention.
Edit.In relation with the Raid 0 problems that the people have,im interest to see some benches to compare with mine.I dont have any problems so far.And any one interest in benchmarks.I run most of them.And this board is real fast when compare with others ones.And the last bios [0903] thats the ones,i run 3 differents settings and all are stables.Even im using an ES chip that need more volts.


----------



## 00Smurf

well it posted. everythign is good. cpu is at 21C idle according to the bios. board revision is 1.0 and the bios was 603. flashed it to 0903. installing windows now. the only voltage settings i changed were to lower the nb to 1.4 and the sb to 1.5


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *00Smurf*


well it posted. everythign is good. cpu is at 21C idle according to the bios. board revision is 1.0 and the bios was 603. flashed it to 0903. installing windows now. the only voltage settings i changed were to lower the nb to 1.4 and the sb to 1.5


Good to heard everything is fine.Now get ready to go up to real speed.Have fun.And post all your benchies and test.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *00Smurf*


well it posted. everythign is good. cpu is at 21C idle according to the bios. board revision is 1.0 and the bios was 603. flashed it to 0903. installing windows now. the only voltage settings i changed were to lower the nb to 1.4 and the sb to 1.5


Thats great smurf. Download and use the most current coretemp version .95 as the temps you get from pc probe are way off.

The bios with the board should have been 0602?

As I mentioned, once you get up and running change your vcore to a manual setting and away you go. Alex, myself, MHill and cognoscenti are all here to help out.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Thats great smurf. Download and use the most current coretemp version .95 as the temps you get from pc probe are way off.

The bios with the board should have been 0602?

As I mentioned, once you get up and running change your vcore to a manual setting and away you go. Alex, myself, MHill and cognoscenti are all here to help out.


Yessssss.Help here we go.Hope we have another high and happy OC.Comming soon.


----------



## Robilar

Alex, I.'m planning on picking up a second raptor x this weekend and go back to raid so I'll be interested to see your results.


----------



## alexisd

Here my test,and some more to come.Those raptors going to fly.They are 16 MB's rigth.
Look the 3d 01,looks good that is with stock card.


----------



## Robilar

Yes. the raptor x are 16 mb cache. Its annoying that they are only sata 1 but they make up for it.

Nice 3dmark01







I got a crazy score with it when I had my pair of 8800gtx. I figure I'll pick up another once the 100 series drivers are released for xp in april. The sli'd cards gave me all kinds of grief in certain games.


----------



## alexisd

Look the drives in sandra benches.What you think in the hhd benches look good?


----------



## 00Smurf

thanks guys. what programs do you recommend i d/l for monitoring and such?

Alexisd: I'll run some benchies with you as soon as i get everything updated. Its doing windows update right now (*&(*& ing slow.) shouldnt be more than an hour or so.

till then here are some pics of the install: Start at the bottom and work up its backwards.


----------



## 00Smurf

any idea as to the steeping on the processor? can i expect good things from it?


----------



## Robilar

smurf, you should white out the serial number on your cpu.

core temp is good. also make sure you load the most current 680i nvidia drivers from the site (Dont use the ones on the cd). Then download the most current version of ntune. PC probe is ok but its off on vcore and cpu temps. ntune will monitor volts and temps the same as pc probe but will supply you with temp monitoring for your video card.

If you want accurate vcore readings, get everest ultimate home beta (the most current build on the site). Its 30 day free and has a patch for the 680i boards that will read voltage accurately.

As i mentioned above, coretemp is the best for accurate cpu temps.

Nice pics, you'll have a fine rig there.

Get your specs updated


----------



## alexisd

He can have the rest of the tools.Like cpu-z 1.38,good for check your cpu fsb and memory,orthos.for stress test,and follow robilar tip and get core temp.Get those in the download section.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


smurf, you should white out the serial number on your cpu.

core temp is good. also make sure you load the most current 680i nvidia drivers from the site (Dont use the ones on the cd). Then download the most current version of ntune. PC probe is ok but its off on vcore and cpu temps. ntune will monitor volts and temps the same as pc probe but will supply you with temp monitoring for your video card.

If you want accurate vcore readings, get everest ultimate home beta (the most current build on the site). Its 30 day free and has a patch for the 680i boards that will read voltage accurately.

As i mentioned above, coretemp is the best for accurate cpu temps.

Nice pics, you'll have a fine rig there.

Get your specs updated










White it out or write it out? why shoud it be whited out? this is prolly a dumb question.

i'll modify it as soon as i'm sure the new one is running stable.









d/l'd the current nforce drivers from nvidia's website and also the latest ntune. Is riva tuner better than ntune?


----------



## Robilar

white out the serial number of your cpu in the pics you post on the internet. Otherwise people can use your serial for warranty scams.

riva tuner will have problems. Then again so does ntune.

Stick with ntune for now. When the 100 series drivers come out in april, they are supposed to streamline the overclocking process.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


white out the serial number of your cpu in the pics you post on the internet. Otherwise people can use your serial for warranty scams.

riva tuner will have problems. Then again so does ntune.

Stick with ntune for now. When the 100 series drivers come out in april, they are supposed to streamline the overclocking process.


gotcha thanks for the tip.


----------



## 00Smurf

This is with everything stock.

As for temps. Core temp reads 40c/40c as windows update is installing sp2

CPU-Z 1.38 report file
Processor(s) 
Number of processors1
Number of cores2 per processor
Number of threads2 (max 2) per processor
NameIntel Core 2 Duo E6300
Code NameConroe
SpecificationIntel(R) Core(TM)2 CPU 6300 @ 1.86GHz
PackageSocket 775 LGA
Family/Model/Stepping6.F.6
Extended Family/Model6.F
Core SteppingB2
Technology65 nm
Core Speed1870.9 MHz
Multiplier x Bus speed7.0 x 267.3 MHz
Rated Bus speed1069.1 MHz
Stock frequency1866 MHz
Instruction setsMMX, SSE, SSE2, SSE3, SSSE3, EM64T
L1 Data cache2 x 32 KBytes, 8-way set associative, 64-byte line size
L1 Instruction cache2 x 32 KBytes, 8-way set associative, 64-byte line size
L2 cache2048 KBytes, 8-way set associative, 64-byte line size
Chipset & Memory 
NorthbridgeNVIDIA 680i SLI SPP rev. A2
SouthbridgeNVIDIA 680i SLI MCP rev. A2
Graphic InterfacePCI-Express
PCI-E Link Widthx16
PCI-E Max Link Widthx16
Memory TypeDDR2
Memory Size2048 MBytes
Memory Frequency400.9 MHz (2:3)
CAS# Latency (tCL)4.0 clocks
RAS# to CAS# (tRDC)4 clocks
RAS# Precharge (tRP)4 clocks
Cycle Time (tRAS)12 clocks
Bank Cycle Time (tRC)22 clocks
Command Rate1T
System 
System ManufacturerSystem manufacturer
System NameSystem Product Name
System S/NSystem Serial Number
Mainboard VendorASUSTeK Computer INC.
Mainboard ModelP5N32-E SLI
BIOS VendorPhoenix Technologies, LTD
BIOS VersionASUS P5N32-E SLI ACPI BIOS Revision 0903
BIOS Date03/05/2007
Memory SPD 
Module 1DDR2, PC2-6400 (400 MHz), 1024 MBytes, Corsair
Module 2DDR2, PC2-6400 (400 MHz), 1024 MBytes, Corsair
Software 
Windows VersionMicrosoft Windows XP Professional Service Pack 1 (Build 2600)
DirectX Version9.0c


----------



## 00Smurf

my corsair is sli enabled. whats the best way to use this feature. i enab;ed it in bios but put it at 0% o/c as i'm not for sure wht it does exactly.


----------



## 00Smurf

gb


----------



## 00Smurf

EVEREST Ultimate Edition 2007

Version EVEREST v3.80.963 Beta
Benchmark Module 2.1.184.0
Homepage http://www.lavalys.com/
Report Type Quick Report [ TRIAL VERSION ]
Computer VIPER
Generator Smurf
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional 5.1.2600 (WinXP Retail)
Date 2007-03-29
Time 12:55

Summary

Computer:
Computer Type ACPI Multiprocessor PC
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional
OS Service Pack [ TRIAL VERSION ]
Internet Explorer 6.0.2800.1106 (IE 6.0 SP1)
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
Computer Name VIPER
User Name Smurf
Logon Domain [ TRIAL VERSION ]
Date / Time 2007-03-29 / 12:55

Motherboard:
CPU Type DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo E6300, 1866 MHz (7 x 267)
Motherboard Name Asus P5N32-E SLI (2 PCI, 1 PCI-E x1, 3 PCI-E x16, 4 DDR2 DIMM, Audio, Dual Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)
Motherboard Chipset nVIDIA nForce 680i SLI
System Memory [ TRIAL VERSION ]
BIOS Type Award (03/05/07)

Display:
Video Adapter NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTS [NGOHQ.com] (640 MB)
3D Accelerator nVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTS
Monitor Dell 828fi [15" CRT] (22794F4GGW49)

Multimedia:
Audio Adapter Creative CA20K1 X-Fi Xtreme Fidelity Audio Processor

Storage:
IDE Controller NVIDIA nForce 590/570/550 Serial ATA Controller
IDE Controller NVIDIA nForce 590/570/550 Serial ATA Controller
IDE Controller NVIDIA nForce 590/570/550 Serial ATA Controller
IDE Controller Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
Floppy Drive Floppy disk drive
Disk Drive WDC WD3200AAKS-00SBA0 (298 GB, IDE)
Optical Drive HL-DT-ST DVD-RAM GSA-H20L (DVD+R9:8x, DVD-R9:4x, DVD+RW:16x/8x, DVD-RW:16x/6x, DVD-RAM:5x, DVD-ROM:16x, CD:48x/32x/48x DVD+RW/DVD-RW/DVD-RAM)
Optical Drive Memorex 52MAXX 3252AJ (52x/32x/52x CD-RW)
SMART Hard Disks Status OK

Partitions:
C: (NTFS) [ TRIAL VERSION ]
Total Size [ TRIAL VERSION ]

Input:
Keyboard Standard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse HID-compliant mouse

Network:
Primary IP Address [ TRIAL VERSION ]
Primary MAC Address 00-1A-92-83-06-86
Network Adapter NVIDIA nForce Networking Controller (192. [ TRIAL VERSION ])
Network Adapter NVIDIA nForce Networking Controller

Peripherals:
FireWire Controller VIA VT6306/6307 Fire II IEEE1394 Host Controller (PHY: VIA VT6307)
USB1 Controller nVIDIA nForce 680i SLI (MCP55PXE) - OHCI USB 1.1 Controller
USB2 Controller nVIDIA nForce 680i SLI (MCP55PXE) - EHCI USB 2.0 Controller
USB Device USB Human Interface Device

DMI:
DMI BIOS Vendor Phoenix Technologies, LTD
DMI BIOS Version ASUS P5N32-E SLI ACPI BIOS Revision 0903
DMI System Manufacturer System manufacturer
DMI System Product System Product Name
DMI System Version System Version
DMI System Serial Number [ TRIAL VERSION ]
DMI System UUID [ TRIAL VERSION ]
DMI Motherboard Manufacturer ASUSTeK Computer INC.
DMI Motherboard Product P5N32-E SLI
DMI Motherboard Version 1.XX
DMI Motherboard Serial Number [ TRIAL VERSION ]
DMI Chassis Manufacturer Chassis Manufacture
DMI Chassis Version Chassis Version
DMI Chassis Serial Number [ TRIAL VERSION ]
DMI Chassis Asset Tag [ TRIAL VERSION ]
DMI Chassis Type Desktop Case
DMI Total / Free Memory Sockets 4 / 2
Debug - Video BIOS

C000:0000 U.b.K7400.L.w.VIDEO ..........IBM VGA Compatible......X}02/01/07
C000:0040 .................~5.B8!..#..........."..F...... PMIDl.o.......
C000:0080 .....3..........HWEAPCIR............b.......GeForc e 8800 GTS VGA
C000:00C0 BIOS.............................................. ..........Ver
C000:0100 sion 60.80.0A.00.01 ...Copyright (C) 1996-2006 NVIDIA Corp......
C000:0140 ....G80 Board - p356h01 ...............Chip Rev ..............
C000:0180 ............................................BIT... ...H2.....B...
C000:01C0 ..C...,.D...:.I...>.L...N.M...P.N.....P...].S...v.T.....U.....V.
C000:0200 ....c.....i.&..........`..................\\\\.... ....`M.0..v`Jz~N
C000:0240 .N.N.N.O$O.N....PO..M..,.....w...................B p.....P.....(.
C000:0280 /../#D.#g..P|.'..5.4.....`........P.M11/27/06...................
C000:02C0 ......1.*.m.d.^.^.s..p..... .........1.*.m.d.^.^.,...e...1.....
C000:0300 H.5...h.......G.....J...9.......Q...1.m.v.....z... ....l.........
C000:0340 a...d...f.d.d.d.s.....d.n.....q.d...t.g.+...x.*.z. .......... . .
C000:0380 .J.^.^...Y.a.b.c...3.{.....2....u........P........ ...X.........
C000:03C0 ....2......2.....f`2......fa.f`3.2......fa.f`3.... ...fa.f`...2..


----------



## cognoscenti

Definately something wrong as lately the vista loading screen scrolls 14 times, when the array was freshly installed it took 22 seconds from post to desktop!

I get a large screen tear happening too at the logon screen.

The problem seems to have happened after changing chipset drivers I think


----------



## 00Smurf

Well here are my benchies. So far i have just been o/c the vid card. working on the cpu now.

2k1 Stock - http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k1=9175146
2k1 O/C - http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k1=9175153
2k3 Stock - 24100
2k3 O/C - http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k3=5285440
2k5 Stock - 10736
2k5 O/C - http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm05=2856253
2k6 Stock - 7424
2k6 O/C - http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=1571308


----------



## 00Smurf

425.01x7 = 2.97 at 1.45 volts 57/58c temps at full load. going for 450 next as soon as 2k1 finishes


----------



## cognoscenti

lol this thread is getting rather convoluted.


----------



## 00Smurf




----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *00Smurf* 
Well here are my benchies. So far i have just been o/c the vid card. working on the cpu now.

2k1 Stock - http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k1=9175146

2k3 Stock - 24100

2k5 Stock - 10736

2k6 Stock - 7424
2k6 O/C -

How did you get ntune to run to overclock your graphics card on this board?









Mine: 3dmark06 -9183 non OC


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
How did you get ntune to run to overclock your graphics card on this board?









Mine: 3dmark06 -9183 non OC

i didn't use ntune. i used atitool .026 for the o/c and riva tuner to set my fan speed to 100% duty cycle.

vid card is at 605/955 stable on stock cooling.


----------



## [email protected]

man , wow do you enable overclocking nvidia cards with atitool.
Mine says it's mnot an ati card and doesn't let me overclock.


----------



## 00Smurf

the highest i could post was 3.16, but it was unstable. 1750 was my max fsb to post. 1700 is the stablest w/ 2.97ghz being the result 425x7. this is at vcore=1.45 nb=1.4 sb=1.5 vtt 1.55. Ram is unlinked and at 900mhz, volts for ram are on auto. I manually set the timing at 4-4-4-8-1t should i enable sli ram and o/c tat way?

Could these be a cooling limitation i'm runing 56/57c under load and 44/46c at idle. or have i hit the limit of my chip. if so a 1000ghz + o/c isn't bad.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
man , wow do you enable overclocking nvidia cards with atitool.
Mine says it's mnot an ati card and doesn't let me overclock.

use 0.26 and make sure your not running atitool through a remote dektop connection. as it screws it up. that was my problem, it should jsut load up and be fine.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *00Smurf* 
the highest i could post was 3.16, but it was unstable. 1750 was my max fsb to post. 1700 is the stablest w/ 2.97ghz being the result 425x7. this is at vcore=1.45 nb=1.4 sb=1.5 vtt 1.55. Ram is unlinked and at 900mhz, volts for ram are on auto. I manually set the timing at 4-4-4-8-1t should i enable sli ram and o/c tat way?

Could these be a cooling limitation i'm runing 56/57c under load and 44/46c at idle. or have i hit the limit of my chip. if so a 1000ghz + o/c isn't bad.

That seems a pretty good OC for that chip.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *00Smurf* 
use 0.26 and make sure your not running atitool through a remote dektop connection. as it screws it up. that was my problem, it should jsut load up and be fine.


Im connected to my machine remotely now and was wondering how I could make it reboot then press F8 and disable driver signing automatically.

Wonder if thats possible, script of some kind.

Ntune doesnt work for me at all.

Atitool doesnt even see the graphics card and has driver issues on installation.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
That seems a pretty good OC for that chip.

thats what i was thinking. but this is my first c2duo, so i dunno. it looks impressive and its one hell of a performance leap.

2k1 w/ o/c vid and proc: http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k1=9175188


----------



## 00Smurf

what i settled on.


----------



## cognoscenti

Youre core temps (59c) seem pretty high but i guess thats when youre running orthos right? still getting pretty warm for regular use.

I reach 52c under load @ 3.375 and Im not keen on that ...lol


----------



## duacar

Alo









Somebody can tel me if this OC works on Asus P5N32- E SLI Plus (650i)

Tank You


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *duacar* 
Alo









Somebody can tel me if this OC works on Asus P5N32- E SLI Plus (650i)

Tank You

What OC in particular?

If youre talking generally about robillars guide then yes give it a go.

I may be wrong but the only differences between the P5N32-E SLI and P5N32-E *PLUS* SLI are:

They changed Northbridge and Southbridge Chipsets.
Upgraded and updated capacitors
Better control of voltages with lower vdroop
Fixed issues with crackling onboard sound during SLI configuration use
3DMark06 came with the motherboard


----------



## duacar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
What OC in particular?

If youre talking generally about robillars guide then yes give it a go.

I may be wrong but the only differences between the P5N32-E SLI and P5N32-E *PLUS* SLI are:

They changed Northbridge and Southbridge Chipsets.
Upgraded and updated capacitors
Better control of voltages with lower vdroop
Fixed issues with crackling onboard sound during SLI configuration use
3DMark06 came with the motherboard

Tanks it answers my question
I will give a try


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
Youre core temps (59c) seem pretty high but i guess thats when youre running orthos right? still getting pretty warm for regular use.

I reach 52c under load @ 3.375 and Im not keen on that ...lol

52?....ROLF when I went from the dual PIII rig to the 820 it was total shocker....from 42C full load at 80% OC on the PIII to a whopping 68C stock speeds on the D820. AS5 brought me down to 60C on the 820 even @ mild OC but still.....I heat my whole house with my rig in the winter.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *duacar* 
Alo








Somebody can tel me if this OC works on Asus P5N32- E SLI Plus (650i)
Tank You

Its held some good advice for me....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
What OC in particular?

If youre talking generally about robillars guide then yes give it a go.

I may be wrong but the only differences between the P5N32-E SLI and P5N32-E *PLUS* SLI are:

They changed Northbridge and Southbridge Chipsets.
Upgraded and updated capacitors
Better control of voltages with lower vdroop
Fixed issues with crackling onboard sound during SLI configuration use
3DMark06 came with the motherboard

Uhhh....what she said. Near as I can tell there really is not much difference in the functioning between the 650i and 680i. Looks to me like the 680i just has a few extra goodies like additional SATA, LAN, USB and such. The real big difference is support for dual 16xPCIe.


----------



## Robilar

A few things (man I missed a whole bunch of posts last night!).

Cogno, ntune may not work properly on vista. I built a rig last week for a cousin with the same board and vista ultimate 32 bit and ntune was giving me some serious headaches. Remember that vista is literally weeks old and all of the applications I am running are under XP.

Duacar, the plus version of this board has a functionally identical bios and will overclock in similar fashion. I played with one briefly and my understanding of it is that as its not a full 680i chipset (its a hybrid), the OC on the board is going to be slightly lower (the one I tested, the highest I could get stable with an E6600 was 482 FSB).

Smurf, you will need aftermarket cooling on the nb/sb to get higher stable overclocks. The nb can hit as high as 80C with the passive crap they use. I've hooked thermal probes to both the nb/sb during passive and active testing and it makes an enormous difference.

Regarding SLI memory, to the question above, set sli ready to 0% overclock and it will auto clock the ram. I would recommend leaving your memory at stock/auto (and unlinked) until you get the highest stable overclock possible on your cpu. then you can go back and work on the memory. One of the best benefits of this board is independant overclocking. This way you can eliminate culprits when it crashes.


----------



## duacar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


A few things (man I missed a whole bunch of posts last night!).
...

Duacar, the plus version of this board has a functionally identical bios and will overclock in similar fashion. I played with one briefly and my understanding of it is that as its not a full 680i chipset (its a hybrid), the OC on the board is going to be slightly lower (the one I tested, the highest I could get stable with an E6600 was 482 FSB).
....

.


Thanks for the explanation
I am waiting for collers for NB and SB to initiate OC

I go giving the news


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Smurf, you will need aftermarket cooling on the nb/sb to get higher stable overclocks. The nb can hit as high as 80C with the passive crap they use. I've hooked thermal probes to both the nb/sb during passive and active testing and it makes an enormous difference.

Regarding SLI memory, to the question above, set sli ready to 0% overclock and it will auto clock the ram. I would recommend leaving your memory at stock/auto (and unlinked) until you get the highest stable overclock possible on your cpu. then you can go back and work on the memory. One of the best benefits of this board is independant overclocking. This way you can eliminate culprits when it crashes.


I have kinda halfassed nb and southbridge cooling. I put to 40mm fans over the heatsinks. if you refer to my pictures you can see where they are:









but i'm goign today do get the spiritII's as i think a dedicated cooler will be better than what i have. I'm also goign to pick up a slot cooler to put infront of the 8800gts, remove some of that hot air better.

as for the sli ram. wheni enable it and put it at 0% o/c it greys out the fsb and mem bus tab. so tht i can't o/c the cpu by changing the fsb.

What did you think of the o/c's so far?


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Youre core temps (59c) seem pretty high but i guess thats when youre running orthos right? still getting pretty warm for regular use.

I reach 52c under load @ 3.375 and Im not keen on that ...lol


yea it seemed hi to me. but i'm running way over stock. so... i used artic silver ceramique instea of silver. so tht might be it as well


----------



## alexisd

Yesss.Some new scores and back to the top 30 systems.This benches are @ 3.55.Maybe can do better scores @ 3.6 or so but im fine with this ones.The 05 and 03 are hard to beat.But if im not wrong going to take the 10 place.Rigth behind you [Robilar].Another benchies for all the new owners of this mobo.


----------



## Robilar

Nice!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *00Smurf* 
yea it seemed hi to me. but i'm running way over stock. so... i used artic silver ceramique instea of silver. so tht might be it as well

Ceramique is actually supposed to be less effective than AS5 for temps above 0C


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Nice!


Hey[Robilar you think if i try the memory @ 4 4 4 12 or 8 and 1t can push a little more in the scores?Thats one thing i never didn't try yet the memory @ 1t.Now i have 4 4 4 12 2t @ 968


----------



## TsunoTakishi

In regards to the issue with dual 8800GTX cards, NB/SB cooling, and a sound card, is it the fact that the GTXs take up 2 slots with the air coolers thus restricting the remaining PCI slots to the one in between the cards? If so, would using waterblocks for the cards eliminate the problem and let you use the other PCI easier?


----------



## cognoscenti

What do you have to do to let it post the officially verified scores for each years version of 3dmark?

I can only do a score but not submit it


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TsunoTakishi* 
In regards to the issue with dual 8800GTX cards, NB/SB cooling, and a sound card, is it the fact that the GTXs take up 2 slots with the air coolers thus restricting the remaining PCI slots to the one in between the cards? If so, would using waterblocks for the cards eliminate the problem and let you use the other PCI easier?

If they are low profile waterblocks, absolutely. gtx takes two slots, as such using aftermarket cooling on the southbridge limits the length of card going in the only available slot. With the gpu's taking single slots, you would have more than one free slot and problem solved.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
What do you have to do to let it post the officially verified scores for each years version of 3dmark?

I can only do a score but not submit it









Did you register and create a user account?

You won't be able to submit scores without that to the Orb


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Hey[Robilar you think if i try the memory @ 4 4 4 12 or 8 and 1t can push a little more in the scores?Thats one thing i never didn't try yet the memory @ 1t.Now i have 4 4 4 12 2t @ 968

If you try your memory at 4-4-4-8 @ 1T instead of your current settings but at 800 Mhz, you will find you bench faster


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Yesss.Some new scores and back to the top 30 systems.This benches are @ 3.55.Maybe can do better scores @ 3.6 or so but im fine with this ones.The 05 and 03 are hard to beat.But if im not wrong going to take the 10 place.Rigth behind you [Robilar].Another benchies for all the new owners of this mobo.

Is my 3dmark01 score ok for a single GTS ?

Ive gone back to xp for the time being as I got the hump with Vista 64.


----------



## Robilar

Alex only got 6K more with a gtx so yes its a pretty good score.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Alex only got 6K more with a gtx so yes its a pretty good score.

Yeah I wondered if the gap was about right.

AtiTool now works since I have gone back to XP
That problem with Ntune is still there though!

What sort of clock should i slide it up to?
Its a BFG 8800gts factory OC.


----------



## Robilar

http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/1362...oc-thread.html

This thread lists a bunch of overclocks by members. I haven't actually overclocked a gts (although I;ve installed a few)

Those numbers should be a decent guideline


----------



## alexisd

Im back in the benches.Im running the benches now @ 3.6,memory 4 4 4 10 still @ 2t.Numbers comming soon.So far better in 3d 05,and 3d 03.Lower in 3d 06 .Now running 3d 01,i hope better numbers in 3d 01.Yup better in 01,03,


----------



## alexisd

Hey[Robilar i know you are using sata dvd drives,me too but find or have a little rock here.Here is the deal sometimes the drive read the dvd or cd.And sometimes not.Here is the message and the drive im using.http://us.liteonit.com/us/index.php?...=199&Itemid=99I disable all the ide settings in bios and enable sata 6.I have the drive installed in the sata 6connection in the mobo .I have my 2 hdd in the sata 1 and 2.If you can help me out in this one?I went thru the basics troubleshootings.I try to install differents games and nothing,the green light in front of the drive flash and that it.Thank's in advance.


----------



## 00Smurf

So i finnaly get it all loaded up. Went to microcenter to buy a fan and ended up with a dual slot pci cooler that sits next to the gfx card. dropped gpu temps 7C. Of course it didn't just stop at a fan. picked up 2 WD 36gig raptors a 200gb sataII drive an 80mm fan to cool the hd's. wanted to get 2 spiritII's but they were outta stock.

So i put the raptors in, get the raid set up (raid 0) copy my os from my old drive to them. Booted to windows all was fine. Shut the pc down so that i could move it from my new build table to its new home in my desk. Get it all hooked up, fire it up and it hangs. this was with the 2.975 o/c. Keep trying to restart to get it to load win. nothing. Even though an orthos stress test for 5 hours showed no errors it picks now to be dumb. Next time around i boot to bios. I move to the extreme tweaker tab in order to bump it down. Bam freezes. i try again, same thing freezes when in the tabs. so i can't clock it down. well no biggie i'll reset the cmos and start over. I do that, boot to bios clock it down to 375fsb. restart everythings cool. Go to start windows. "NTLDR not found" AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. really pissed. I make sure the array is fine. No problems there, the o/c hang corrupted my mbr. so no biggie i'll boot to windows recovery console and fix it. boot from xp cd, go all the way through it can;t find my xp installation. O my bad for got to install third party raid drivers. Restart get to the f6 prompt press it. it comes up asking me to put a disk in drive a: with the drivers to load. O crap, no floppy ho uses floppys anymore. So i search my house an hour for a floppy, finnally find one up in my attic. Load it in my old machine it detects and works fine. so i get the nv raid drivers copy em to floppy, un hook the floppy drive hook it up to new machine, finally get to recovery console and it sees my installation. I copy ntldr and ntdetect.com from i386\\ to the root directory of my hd. Restart all is good. Phew, i was worried i'd have to reinstall xp. So now i've set up ghost to back up my entire raid 0(only 74gb) to the 320gb back up drive. this way if i can't ever fix it. i can just reimage the drive.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Hey[Robilar i know you are using sata dvd drives,me too but find or have a little rock here.Here is the deal sometimes the drive read the dvd or cd.And sometimes not.Here is the message and the drive im using.http://us.liteonit.com/us/index.php?...=199&Itemid=99I disable all the ide settings in bios and enable sata 6.I have the drive installed in the sata 6connection in the mobo .I have my 2 hdd in the sata 1 and 2.If you can help me out in this one?I went thru the basics troubleshootings.I try to install differents games and nothing,the green light in front of the drive flash and that it.Thank's in advance.


did you check if there is a firmware update for the drive? I have the plextor sata px-755 and had some issues when I installed of a similar nature. I flashed the DVD drive to the newest firmware and its worked perfectly ever since (burns a bit faster as well







)


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *00Smurf*


So i finnaly get it all loaded up. Went to microcenter to buy a fan and ended up with a dual slot pci cooler that sits next to the gfx card. dropped gpu temps 7C. Of course it didn't just stop at a fan. picked up 2 WD 36gig raptors a 200gb sataII drive an 80mm fan to cool the hd's. wanted to get 2 spiritII's but they were outta stock.

So i put the raptors in, get the raid set up (raid 0) copy my os from my old drive to them. Booted to windows all was fine. Shut the pc down so that i could move it from my new build table to its new home in my desk. Get it all hooked up, fire it up and it hangs. this was with the 2.975 o/c. Keep trying to restart to get it to load win. nothing. Even though an orthos stress test for 5 hours showed no errors it picks now to be dumb. Next time around i boot to bios. I move to the extreme tweaker tab in order to bump it down. Bam freezes. i try again, same thing freezes when in the tabs. so i can't clock it down. well no biggie i'll reset the cmos and start over. I do that, boot to bios clock it down to 375fsb. restart everythings cool. Go to start windows. "NTLDR not found" AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. really pissed. I make sure the array is fine. No problems there, the o/c hang corrupted my mbr. so no biggie i'll boot to windows recovery console and fix it. boot from xp cd, go all the way through it can;t find my xp installation. O my bad for got to install third party raid drivers. Restart get to the f6 prompt press it. it comes up asking me to put a disk in drive a: with the drivers to load. O crap, no floppy ho uses floppys anymore. So i search my house an hour for a floppy, finnally find one up in my attic. Load it in my old machine it detects and works fine. so i get the nv raid drivers copy em to floppy, un hook the floppy drive hook it up to new machine, finally get to recovery console and it sees my installation. I copy ntldr and ntdetect.com from i386\\ to the root directory of my hd. Restart all is good. Phew, i was worried i'd have to reinstall xp. So now i've set up ghost to back up my entire raid 0(only 74gb) to the 320gb back up drive. this way if i can't ever fix it. i can just reimage the drive.


Raids and overclocking can be finicky. In the past, I've used a single drive, got my best overclock set up, then ghosted the drive onto the raid array. Much less time spent messing with trying to fix the raid array if it crashes as a result of a mad OC!


----------



## alexisd

I think i go it now.Change the cable and now work.Installing a game now.


----------



## cognoscenti

Is there a specific reason why when I move the multiplier to 10 x in the bios (0903) but then i check in everest and its 9x still.


----------



## alexisd

What version of everest?Check in cpu-z.If is x 10 or x9.


----------



## cognoscenti

Yeah still 9 in cpuz too.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Yeah still 9 in cpuz too.


Oh you have the 6600?The 6600 is only x 9 and down multy.My 6700 ES is x 10 but no the 6600.


----------



## Robilar

I was going to mention that as well. you can up the multi in the bios but it will not save it if its above your cpu max. Only the unlocked cpu's (like mine) can go up or down in multis. Main reason I bought it. I can run 13x multi @ 266 FSB stock for just under 3.5 easily. Because I am not upping FSB, when I change ram settings, I can push it like crazy.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


I think i go it now.Change the cable and now work.Installing a game now.


Bad sata cable connector? I don't know why locking sata cables aren't standard. They barely click into place.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Bad sata cable connector? I don't know why locking sata cables aren't standard. They barely click into place.


Bad cable mess my day.All fix here.Just change the cable and is good now.Sometimes is just a little things.But as always go to the basics.


----------



## USlatin

I am wondering about my PSU now. I saw many posts here about clean power playing a noticeable factor when OC'ing with the 680i so I wonder if my Antec True Power 650W would be good enough for my setup (below). I see some crazy expansive PSUs on many of your signatures...

The only things not current on the signature are the Tuniq and 680i which I will change once I get the board.


----------



## esco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I am wondering about my PSU now. I saw many posts here about clean power playing a noticeable factor when OC'ing with the 680i so I wonder if my Antec True Power 650W would be good enough for my setup (below). I see some crazy expansive PSUs on many of your signatures...

The only things not current on the signature are the Tuniq and 680i which I will change once I get the board.


Could also be bad wiring in the house also. A friend of mine ran into that prob. His PC was not properly grounded and his PSU was recieving unstable voltages.

Finally got my e6600 to 3.2 yesterday and was able to tighten up ram back to 4-4-4-12 T1. Cannot go any higher and i am certain it is the memory. ROb you said Micron chips work best with this board? Was looking at some OCZ

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227191

Was wondering if they would work fine.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *esco*


Could also be bad wiring in the house also. A friend of mine ran into that prob. His PC was not properly grounded and his PSU was recieving unstable voltages.

Finally got my e6600 to 3.2 yesterday and was able to tighten up ram back to 4-4-4-12 T1. Cannot go any higher and i am certain it is the memory. ROb you said Micron chips work best with this board? Was looking at some OCZ

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227191

Was wondering if they would work fine.


Take a look in this list.Any micron chips work nice in this board.http://www.overclock.net/intel-memor...d-modules.html


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *esco*


Could also be bad wiring in the house also. A friend of mine ran into that prob. His PC was not properly grounded and his PSU was recieving unstable voltages.

Finally got my e6600 to 3.2 yesterday and was able to tighten up ram back to 4-4-4-12 T1. Cannot go any higher and i am certain it is the memory. ROb you said Micron chips work best with this board? Was looking at some OCZ

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227191

Was wondering if they would work fine.


I BET that this old building has bad electric... that's for sure... Would one of these big batteries help by working as a huge capacitor like the ones for subwoofers? All I have now is a very nice surge protector. Summer is coming and I live in LA, so it will only get worse from here.

BTW if that sounds dumb I'm sorry, but if you get what I am trying to get at please straighten me out.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Take a look in this list.Any micron chips work nice in this board.http://www.overclock.net/intel-memor...d-modules.html


That ram is fine but I am uncertain if its Microns.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227181

This OCZ kit is, however. Micron D9


----------



## hypemnd

Thanks for everyone's info on this MB, but I'm still pretty new at this and don't really know where to start with the BIOS settings given my config. Can you take a look at my system config below, and give me some direction? Will it help a lot if I get a new CPU cooler or NB and SB cooling? If so, what should I get?


----------



## USlatin

So if Everest Ultimate gives accurate voltage readings with this motherboard I just want to know what version number exactly is supposed to be accurate...

I have version 3.50


----------



## cognoscenti

try and get 3.8.905beta


----------



## Robilar

Cogno is correct.


----------



## beaglestorm

Has anyone tested this new bios yet? I just saw it posted today, but it is dated 3-30-07. From the change log it appears that it only adds compatibility for new processors:

Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...=P5N32-E%20SLI

0903 is working so well for me, I thought I would wait to update till a BIOS with some notable enhancements gets posted. However, if somebody finds this one to provide additional benefits....

Thanks


----------



## USlatin

So I got my board today!!! Weeeeeee!!!
I was so happy that I spent extra time with the cable management since this mobo will be my final stop for quite sometime. I also re-sat the NB and SB heat sinks with Artic Silver added a little fan on top of the NB and I installed the Tuniq for the first time. I was so happy that I actually lit the table and shot the whole process on 720p (almost all of it) and in time-lapse which is when you shoot one frame per a set period of time (I used 1 second) so as to later show it at the normal 24/30 fps to make it look super fast... It looks great, I will host it and share it with you guys, but first I have to solve a little itty bitty problem... My computer won't start.









I mean it powers up, I get the fans going and the lights come on, but I don't get a screen. The monitors stay black as if they didn't know the computer just powered up.
I started a separate thread so as not to fatten this OC'ing thread with my problems, but since this is the best 680i thread around I thought I'd post here and paste a link to the other thread so I can get to actively partake in this thread sooner with some of your help. I can't wait to see the glorious 680i BIOS screenies:
*
"New 680i installed and I can't get an image"*

help a noob, get some rep


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *beaglestorm* 
Has anyone tested this new bios yet? I just saw it posted today, but it is dated 3-30-07. From the change log it appears that it only adds compatibility for new processors:

Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...=P5N32-E%20SLI

0903 is working so well for me, I thought I would wait to update till a BIOS with some notable enhancements gets posted. However, if somebody finds this one to provide additional benefits....

Thanks


I downloaded it and did some digging but nothing yet. The good news is that its not a beta bios. I'll give it a go this evening.


----------



## hawkin

Nice jobb man. I made use of the instruktions you had here for my own cu

p5n32-sli premiem with an 6600.

but i having real problems getting above 3.17

just locking itself if i try more than that. ill post images of how my speccs look right now in an hour or so. Maby your expertice can help.


----------



## Robilar

The P5N32-SLI Premium is known to have issues with FSB over 350. It uses the older nf4 chipset and although an excellent board at stock, lacks a bit in overclocking. I assume you are running at 9x350 (or in that range)?


----------



## Mr. Scarface

Just a question about bridge cooling.

Does the HR-05 by Thermalright fit on the south bridge if you have a sound card in your middle PCI slot?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr. Scarface*


Just a question about bridge cooling.

Does the HR-05 by Thermalright fit on the south bridge if you have a sound card in your middle PCI slot?


Depend how big it is.You can use the bottom slot?


----------



## Robilar

The bottom slot will likely be blocked by a second video card though. With the thermaltake cooler, you will have 150 mm length clearance on the centre slot. The ht-05 would likely give a bit more. Cognoscenti is using one.


----------



## hawkin

You bang on target there.

350x9 but lissen to this. cause this is giving me a real "?"

Hehe when i login to windows it says my proc is a 900mhz lawl

And when i start Cpu-z it jumps between x6.0 multiplyer and x9

so core speed jumps between 2.100 - 3.150

Can hmm can that have to do with that its downgrading it when its not doing anything?

Cause games running as they should Vista benchmark gives me great scores and so on. So hehe dont realy get how it can think i have less when clearly my games and benches tells me other ways hehe.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
The P5N32-SLI Premium is known to have issues with FSB over 350. It uses the older nf4 chipset and although an excellent board at stock, lacks a bit in overclocking. I assume you are running at 9x350 (or in that range)?


----------



## USlatin

that looks like the CPU going to lower power consumption when not needed like my DS3 used to

BTW the G.Skill HZ modules say *7CD22 D9GMH*

WOOOOoooooow.... duuuude, this is sooooo much detailed than my DS3's BIOS, holy cow!
I am so confused... the numbers are so different from the DS3's can someone give me a 101 so I don't do anything stupid?

I tried changing the multi but every time it look at CPU-Z it shows x7

Also, why won't my computer turn off when I shut down? Is it bad to have to hold the power button for the 4 seconds... also it won't re-start...


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hawkin*


Hehe when i login to windows it says my proc is a 900mhz lawl

And when i start Cpu-z it jumps between x6.0 multiplyer and x9

so core speed jumps between 2.100 - 3.150

Can hmm can that have to do with that its downgrading it when its not doing anything?


No, that's Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology. It dynamically lowers your Core 2 Duo's multiplier to x6 when it's not under load to conserve system power. You can disable it in the BIOS but you might aswell keep it on as you wont have any real need to raise CPU voltages considering you wont be able to raise FSB high enough on the P5N32.


----------



## USlatin

what should I set the NB and SB voltages for a high 6300 OC...? or should they be left on auto?

I am up to a "1400"







so a 350FSB and I set the Vcore to 1.4V which should be able to get me as far as my NB/ temp will allow till I do something else than the little 40mm fan on the NB and Artic Silver


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *beaglestorm*


Has anyone tested this new bios yet? I just saw it posted today, but it is dated 3-30-07. From the change log it appears that it only adds compatibility for new processors:

Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...=P5N32-E%20SLI

0903 is working so well for me, I thought I would wait to update till a BIOS with some notable enhancements gets posted. However, if somebody finds this one to provide additional benefits....

Thanks


Flashed 1002 last night, no probs whatsoever.....

Seems fine.


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


what should I set the NB and SB voltages for a high 6300 OC...?


I'm at a real comfortable 3.42 with my E6600 24/7 orthos stable for > 4 hours.

NB=1.40v SB=1.50v. These are bios settings, I don't recall what pc probe detects.

If you're going higher, I really suggest active NB cooling of some sort.


----------



## USlatin

Hey, happy post # 301

I added a little fan to the NB and I got 45C after 2min of OCCT on a CPU intensive test, then I Orthos CPU and RAM for 1hs with few 44C spikes. I am however, kinda' worried about the double sided sticky foam I used will melt and drop the fan. It is just some random thing I got yesterday on the fly, and it isn't the sort of thing you want to use at all. I will stop by RadioShack and get some double sided thermal tape which will get the fan a tad further away from my Tuniq fan's frame. BTW in the pic the Tuniq's fan wasn't in.

After that I'll try to push the 6300 to an OC higher than my 3.2 on the DS3 and see what happens to the temps... I wonder how to test for SB max temps?










But I can get by at my 161% OC of 3GHz for now...







Also I am running the HZ at 4-4-4-12-18 1T 800MHz... not bad for a couple of hours

Is the SB used by the video card, and all the PCI slots in general? It is by the HDDs especially when RAID is being used, right?


----------



## USlatin

What am I supposed to do about the NB and SB voltages?
I still have them on auto and so far I've ony heard one user's settings but he had a different chip...









Just FYI, I have a 1795 (449) FSB. Only 1 FSB away from my DS3 OC!








I have been running 1.45V which I've read might be the recommended max for an E6300 but only seen a few posts about Vcore for my chip. I do have the VVT at the recommended maximum.







And I have the memory unlinked and at a safe setting so as to be sure it isn't limiting my CPU OC. The multi won't change, is that why you said to shoot for 7x500? rep+ to Robilar (again)
Also I am using CCCT CPU test for this CUP overclocking.


----------



## USlatin

so when you hung up before the BIOS you need to take out the battery right?

And I will I have to set everything all over again?

Could it be that I was trying a 450 (1800FSB) with the RAM at only 800MHz unlinked?

It might be worse, I tried a few times and got a black screen. Ok, so I am back up and running... I have a wall at 1800 so I am running at 1795 at 3.14GHz just below my DS3 highest clock, so I wonder if it is because of my voltages?


----------



## cognoscenti

Ive not once had to remove the battery on this board.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
Ive not once had to remove the battery on this board.

I only remove once due to wrong setting in,timmings.Other than that no problems.If you up date the bios you need to go back to stock before up date.If you want you can clear cmos.Really you don't have to do that.Once you set load default,you set to up date the bios.But to be sure you clear and drain the battery remove and put it back on.And then up date the bios.


----------



## USlatin

I am back up and running at 1795, I couldn't hit 1800... should I up my RAM speed... could it be that even though they are unlinked the gap is too big?
*What about NB and SB voltages, do you guys run AUTO?*

I can't hit 1800... my computer freezes at the Ai logo and I have to unplug it for a minute for it to make it into the BIOS again... I was at 1795 and tried 1800 several times. I even upped the RAM to 850 to see if it was due to a big gap between the FSB and memory speed... not sure it it had anything to do at this point but tried it just in case. So I just booted at 1799! lol hilarious that I'll do 1799 without a single hiccup but not 1800.
This has to be something specific that one of you guys will know about. It has to be...


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I am back up and running at 1795, I couldn't hit 1800... should I up my RAM speed... could it be that even though they are unlinked the gap is too big?

What about NB and SB voltages, do you guys run AUTO?


No auto in my settings.Im running 3.5 in my OC, and need some extra volts to get there mate.My NB is @ 1.45 and the SB is @1.50 to better OC.Maybe you need more volts in the NB no in the SB.Hope it help a little.


----------



## USlatin

yea, I have been asking for a while... what sucks is that the only two guys that answered have other CPUs... I thought AUTO would up the NB voltage as needed...

what is the stock NB voltage? is it different when a different CPU in in the board?

I had to ass +0.2V to my chipset in the DS3 so I was wondering why nobody jumped when I asked... and thought hey, maybe this board is so kick a$$ that it knows what to set them to... lol


----------



## alexisd

Sry.But i just jump to OC.I don't even know the stock volts for the nb or sb.But auto is no for me.Start to OC until is no stable or no boot.Then you know is time to raise some volt's.You follow robilar guide?


----------



## USlatin

I know how to do the whole thing, done is once before with this same chip on a DS3 up to 3.4GHz and it passed a bunch of testing. But I asked a bunch of times ans the question got dodged so many times that I thought there was something I didn't know. Then again I ask five questions at a time so maybe that's why it never got answered.

I tried 1800 with 1.4NB and 1.5SB but the same thing happened... now I tried 1.5V on the NB and same thing... what's up here? It can't be that I would have gotten a higher OC on the DS3...

3.1482GHz isn't the ceiling of the CPU, my RAM isn't the bottleneck, my PSU is decent... what's up?
I am getting Everest to see if my Vdroop is the issue... that's a good idea right? I just hadn't gotten to it yet.


----------



## alexisd

The most important one is the vcore volt.Try your higher fsb and run orthos.Once it fail you only hit the v core volt,and you see you goin to be able to keep pushing your OC.


----------



## 00Smurf

my current max atm. 1800fsb will post but it freezes


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


The most important one is the vcore volt.Try your higher fsb and run orthos.Once it fail you only hit the v core volt,and you see you goin to be able to keep pushing your OC.


as in the other thread in the Intel CPU section: 1.45V is all you'll ever need to get anything you can get out of a 6300 they usually go to 3.2 with the stock 1.325V... I was trying 1.45 cause I wanted to rule the Vcore out and to see how the Tuniq handled it

Quote:



Originally Posted by *00Smurf*


my current max atm. 1800fsb will post but it freezes


1800? wow you see! there is something there... what is it guys! mad rep to the one that figures this one out for us!
BTW soooo nice to see an other 6300 here


----------



## cognoscenti

Im having crackling sound issues again with 1002 bios and P5N32-E SLI....


----------



## H3||scr3am

update your bios


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am*


update your bios


LOL...it s about 2 days old.

Please make me a newer one


----------



## USlatin

ok, what about NB temperatures? they are low, what what is recommended? It can't be the problem though cause I barely hit 47C with 28C ambient yesterday


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


ok, what about NB temperatures? they are low, what what is recommended? It can't be the problem though cause I barely hit 47C with 28C ambient yesterday


what are you measuring NB temps with?


----------



## USlatin

I have been using Speed Fan.
I just got Everest but I can't install it now cause I am rendering. But I will use that. Also I'll use it to check voltages. Wait, Everest wasn't supposed to be good for Temps then again I am sure it won't be bad.
What's best?


----------



## cognoscenti

my personal opinion is everest.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Im having crackling sound issues again with 1002 bios and P5N32-E SLI....










Damn they broke something they fixed? I don't use the onboard sound so didn't notice it. Go back to 0903 then. I wasn't able to determine any differences in overclocking either way


----------



## USlatin

Ok, I am stuck at 3.14GHz for some reason unknown to humanity. 1799 is perfectly stable (not 100% proven yet) and 1800 is impossible.

So I turn my attention to Everest... I have 3.8, I want to learn how to check the voltages and all i can find it the stock voltage rating under CPU. Where do i look?


----------



## alexisd

You can use nvidia monitor too.To check your real voltage.And use core temp to check your temp.If you have 1.7 in bios is way to high.


----------



## Dwezal

hey guys, I'm just poking my head in the door to say hi & thanks for the great guide Robilar...

I just completed my first build almost 2 weeks ago. I followed the guide & I'm at rock solid stable @ 3.2GHz 355.5x9. I'm wanting to get 400 FSB so I can have the 1:1 ratio but I've hit a roadblock.

I boot at 400x8 & my bios displays 266x8

I've upped vcore to 1.45, ram 2.1, NB 1.45, SB 1.50, CPU VTT 1.55

Any idea?


----------



## alexisd

Maybe lower the multy and gr go higher in volts,if your temps are fine.And hit a notch the nb volts.Out those 3 i go with the vcore volts if temps are fine.Or set the memory unlinked


----------



## Dwezal

I tried lowering the multi to 400x6 & my system froze at the bios screen

my temps are 32/53 using core temp & load temps using Orthos


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


You can use nvidia monitor too.To check your real voltage.And use core temp to check your temp.If you have 1.7 in bios is way to high.


1799 is the FSB which comes out to a 449.75 FSB


----------



## H3||scr3am

anyone done the vmod, vdroop, vmem mods, or know how to do them where the tests and soldering points are?


----------



## joematrix

Hey guys, I read all 33 pages of this forum tonight, as I am preparing to receive my parts on Monday and Tuesday, including the Asus P5N32-E SLI motherboard. My specs should be listed below, and I would appreciate your input, as well as helping me overclock once I get everything put together next week. This will be my first attempt at real overclocking, and I think I have the rights parts to do a pretty good job. All of your previous information was very helpful too.

If you have any advice about my parts I will be receiving, let me know.


----------



## Dwezal

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Maybe lower the multy and gr go higher in volts,if your temps are fine.And hit a notch the nb volts.Out those 3 i go with the vcore volts if temps are fine.Or set the memory unlinked

I set my memory to 4-4-4-12 2t 800

I just tried & was able to get to the bios & it was reading 3.2 400x8. But then it froze

I set the volts at

vcore-1.42
mem-2.1
1.2Vht-1.35
NB-1.5
SB-1.5
CPU VTT-1.55
I locked the SPP<->MCP ref clock to 250

I'm at a loss here


----------



## USlatin

People! I want to share this with you:
http://www.overclock.net/hard-drives...eeeeeee-d.html


----------



## Robilar

Nice hard drive performance results. Now lets see If we can get your oc higher!


----------



## misledone

So a quick question, in the beginning you didn't really state about the other voltage settings. So should I leave those be or try to mess with those as well?


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Nice hard drive performance results. Now lets see If we can get your oc higher!

Yea, tell me about it!









The reason for switching to a 680i was the RAID savings (no need for a controller) also I knew I'd be able to get more out of my memory and that I did... but I must admit I was hoping and kinds counting on a slightly higher CPU speed than my 3.2GHz from the DS3, and instead I get a 3.147?!?








Can't complain though cause it was a defenite upgrade, no question about it... but come on...









Anyone have an idea why 1799 (449.7) won't even hiccup, completely stable, loving life, cruising line nothing... and then 1800 (450) is completely *i-m-p-o-s-s-i-b-l-e*?

Robilar, could it have to do with my cooling? Then again if is was cooling it wouldn't be such a defined and specific wall... better ambient temps would lower it and so on...


----------



## cognoscenti

Ever since I got these Trojans my PC is gone awol!

I have reformatted the raptors now about 5 times and reinstalled xp.

I have used the WD tools and written 0's to the entire disc etc and the partitioned in xp setup, then installed etc.
Reflashed the bios again.

I get random freezes, software all over the place.

all sorts of error screens popping up.

Something is really messed up.
It has somehow messed with the pc more than being on the hard drives, its there even after formatting and reinstalling.


----------



## Robilar

Boot sector of the hard drive? That usually requires a low level format (Which can be risky)


----------



## cognoscenti

well apparently low level formats only relates to old technology drives ,from what i read.

My pc is messedup right now!


----------



## USlatin

ouch, that's worse than my Trojan infections... [email protected]#$...


----------



## 00Smurf

Damn, i;ve had a couple try to slip in but so far i've been lucky. AVG is my friend. Good luck.

On another note whats the best program to test your hard drives for performance.


----------



## USlatin

I now use Norton, the best, period. And I got Search and Destroy and Ad-Aware which I run every so often, and I scan 100% of everything before and after I open or unzip.
Norton just caught one... eMule is dangerous.


----------



## zues

Rolibar and others.

This is my first post on here, so here I go.

I purchased a p5n32-e sli board and g.skill f2-6400phu2-2gbhz memory and tuniq tower. This is all for a x6800 that I got from a friend.

I need to know what kind of voltages that people are running that are using this setup, I know that you (rolibar) are using 13x at default fsb, and that sounds good to me but I was not getting stable at that settings. After about 2 minutes of running orthos blend I would get an error. Before that I tried to run 1308x11 fsb at 1.45v cpu and 2.1v on memory (written on the chip). That boots but gets unstable after about 2 minutes also. Im beginning to think that I am missing something in this setup, maybe the northbridge/southbridge voltage.

Can someone post bios screenshots with exact voltages they are using for a stable 3.6 overclock. And any other settings that effect that kind of overclock on my chip (x6800).

Thanks.


----------



## t4ct1c47

I currently have my E6600 overclocked to 3.0Ghz and will keep it like this until the end of next week as the stock cooling isn't enough to run the voltages through the chipset I need for 3.4Ghz and maintain stability.

Right now I have my voltages manually set to their respective defaults, apart from the VTT which I have maxed out. This still alows for stable operation of my E6600 @ 3.0Ghz (FSB 1333).

HT - 1.20v
Northbridge 1.25v
Southbridge 1.50v
VTT - 1.55v

For 3.4Ghz (FSB 1512) I had my voltages raised.

HT - 1.30
Northbridge - 1.45
Southbridge - 1.55v
VTT - 1.55v


----------



## zues

Thank you tactical, I wonder if these settings for voltage work with the overclock on the x6800. I would be cool with the 13x266 that is default.


----------



## t4ct1c47

You could always try upping your CPU vCore to 1.55, which is still a reasonable voltage on a Core 2 Duo. However, be sure to monitor your temperatures and run Orthos for a good few hours to confirm stability.


----------



## cognoscenti

with the last 2 bios releases I think you dont need as many volts.

My 3.4ghz runs stable and not hot so i will note the voltages next time i reboot.

The time it takes from pressing DEL to the bios screen seems to take longer than it used to lately


----------



## cognoscenti

Hope it helps


----------



## zues

So pretty much you want to use the same voltages (or around the same) for most all chips (6800 or 6600)?


----------



## cognoscenti

If you stay close to these you should be fine.


----------



## Creepy Jon

just my two cents here, guide helped me out a lot. So far the only problem I have is my ram has to be synced or othros gets an error instantly! Just wanted to point that out, it may be an ocz only problem. I'm getting a water cooled nb sink this week and I'll try upping the volts on that and see if it helps. Right now I have a fan zip tied onto the stock asus one, which actually helps out quite a bit!


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Creepy Jon* 
just my two cents here, guide helped me out a lot. So far the only problem I have is my ram has to be synced or othros gets an error instantly! Just wanted to point that out, it may be an ocz only problem. I'm getting a water cooled nb sink this week and I'll try upping the volts on that and see if it helps. Right now I have a fan zip tied onto the stock asus one, which actually helps out quite a bit!

Use the unlinked mode,and use more volts in the nb to get stable.And you have the rigth volts in your memory?


----------



## Creepy Jon

I'm running the ram at 2.1, voltage monitor reports it at 2.17, eh close enough. It's most likely due to running 4 sticks of ram. I will try upping the volts after I fit it with the water cooled north block, it's already getting hot enough to burn you if touched while on so I don't want to push it any harder. I'm at 1.5 on both north and south bridge.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Creepy Jon* 
I'm running the ram at 2.1, voltage monitor reports it at 2.17, eh close enough. It's most likely due to running 4 sticks of ram. I will try upping the volts after I fit it with the water cooled north block, it's already getting hot enough to burn you if touched while on so I don't want to push it any harder. I'm at 1.5 on both north and south bridge.

I have my nb @ 1.45 and sb @ 1.50 for 3.5 OC and 1.5 for vcore.What bios you have?


----------



## Creepy Jon

It just locked up on me so I upped it to 1.6, oh boy is it going to be getting hot now! Still working out the bugs ya know. I have bios 1002. I'm pushing the fsb a lot harder since I have a 6300, my fsb is 1740 right now and I'm shooting for at least 1800 since I know my processor can take it once I work out the ram problems.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Creepy Jon* 
It just locked up on me so I upped it to 1.6, oh boy is it going to be getting hot now! Still working out the bugs ya know. I have bios 1002. I'm pushing the fsb a lot harder since I have a 6300, my fsb is 1740 right now and I'm shooting for at least 1800 since I know my processor can take it once I work out the ram problems.

Get the memory out of the question,and go unlinked.And get the 0903 Bios,or the 0902 they both work great.1.6 is way too much and yes expect a lot of heat.
NVM,the 1002 robilar tested and is a go.


----------



## Creepy Jon

alright I'll try the older bios and see what happens.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Creepy Jon* 
alright I'll try the older bios and see what happens.

Way check this out=http://www.overclock.net/intel-bios/...sus-p5n32.html


----------



## Creepy Jon

tried the older bios, it still won't run unlinked. Othros gets an error instantly on blend, but stress cpu runs ok. I know it's a ram issue, it's just figuring out how to get around it.

Getting a 6600 on april 22nd and keeping the ram synced at 400 leaves me lots of room to over clock the crap out of it!


----------



## alexisd

Use only 2 gig and loose the timmings.And maybe your memory need more volt's.You have any cpu-z screen?


----------



## Creepy Jon

good idea, two sticks runs longer before crashing. I guess I'm back to my first idea, which is getting water cooling on my north block and juicing it up some, and maybe the ocz ram cooler and some more volts over there too.


----------



## alexisd

Yeah try that.And don't forget loose timmings and go unlinked.Keep us posted.


----------



## DrewRosenHous

hello first post, ive been reading through your lovely guide and I was going to get the regular hr-05 for the northbridge and a tt spirit II for the sb, the problem is I got a tuniq tower. I saw in the attached picture someone was able to fit the hr-05 on the nb of a p5b-delux with the tuniq mounter sideways. Do you think if I mounted my tuniq tower sideways it would have clearance for the hr-05 on a p5n32-e nb? also does anyone know what southbridge coolers will definitely fit it w/2x8800gtx's in sli? I saw some picture in cognoscenti's thread for the hr-05 sli but in the pictures it appears it would not have adequate clearance if there was 2 mounted 8800's. it looks as though a hr-05 regular may be able too squeeze between the two cards if its thin enough.

thanks


----------



## abe_joker

Hey guys,
i bought the following things:
INTEL CORE 2 DUO E4300 1.8GHz (stock) i want to OC to 3.6 or 3.2GHz....
P5N32-E SLI
OCZ 2GB Dual kit OCZ2P800R22GK)
Thermaltake Toughpower 750W PSU
8800gtx 768mb x 1
Thermaltake Spirit II x 2...(thinkin on buying a jing ting...dunno)
Thermaltake Big Typhoon and changed fan for a Thermaltake A2029 fan..

Is there anything wrong? or anything i could have improved? i haven't build up the PC cuz i was reading the forums first, and found that maybe theres something wrong...i dunno..maybe a lil help here


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DrewRosenHous*


hello first post, ive been reading through your lovely guide and I was going to get the regular hr-05 for the northbridge and a tt spirit II for the sb, the problem is I got a tuniq tower. I saw in the attached picture someone was able to fit the hr-05 on the nb of a p5b-delux with the tuniq mounter sideways. Do you think if I mounted my tuniq tower sideways it would have clearance for the hr-05 on a p5n32-e nb? also does anyone know what southbridge coolers will definitely fit it w/2x8800gtx's in sli? I saw some picture in cognoscenti's thread for the hr-05 sli but in the pictures it appears it would not have adequate clearance if there was 2 mounted 8800's. it looks as though a hr-05 regular may be able too squeeze between the two cards if its thin enough.

thanks


Hi and nice set up.Robilar use the spirit II,i think in Sli with the 8800gtx.Now i don;t run sli in my set up but i have the jing ting for the sb and the spirit II in the nb.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *abe_joker*


Hey guys,
i bought the following things:
P5N32-E SLI
OCZ 2GB Dual kit OCZ2P800R22GK)
Thermaltake Toughpower 750W PSU
8800gtx 768mb
Thermaltake Big Typhoon and changed fan for a Thermaltake A2029 fan..

Is there anything wrong? or anything i could have improved? i haven't build up the PC cuz i was reading the forums first, and found that maybe theres something wrong...i dunno..maybe a lil help here










Sry double post,but goin to sleep and try to help this new mates.
You fine with that set up.


----------



## abe_joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Sry double post,but goin to sleep and try to help this new mates.
You fine with that set up.


i edited it...i add the CPU and the spirit II..now tell me


----------



## USlatin

AHA!!!! found them! Under "My Computer" lol... thank you anyway! Now I am sure cause of your screen shot. Rep+

I am glad to have an acutare voltage reader for this motherboard but now I am confused. I have a 2.2 on the BIOS for RAM and I get a higher 2.26 after Vdroop?
On a different note, temperatures seem so much lower! Do you guys use Everest for temps? I was using SpeedFan.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DrewRosenHous*


hello first post, ive been reading through your lovely guide and I was going to get the regular hr-05 for the northbridge and a tt spirit II for the sb, the problem is I got a tuniq tower. I saw in the attached picture someone was able to fit the hr-05 on the nb of a p5b-delux with the tuniq mounter sideways. Do you think if I mounted my tuniq tower sideways it would have clearance for the hr-05 on a p5n32-e nb? also does anyone know what southbridge coolers will definitely fit it w/2x8800gtx's in sli? I saw some picture in cognoscenti's thread for the hr-05 sli but in the pictures it appears it would not have adequate clearance if there was 2 mounted 8800's. it looks as though a hr-05 regular may be able too squeeze between the two cards if its thin enough.

thanks


----------



## alexisd

I use core temps for temps and nvidia monitor for volts,and everest to compare,the volts.Check in the bios section[robilar tested the new bios 1002 and is close in volts with nvidia monitor and everest.
Nice work [cognoscenti]in that set up with the 2 card's.Now go and bench that rig.And post back.


----------



## USlatin

Did you just get the second one recently?
It seems you should get new memory to unlock the rest of your rig! I bet you could get much higher benches... right?

EDIT... ohhhh I just saw Alex's post, so those are from your single card! Wow... must be the CPU,and I guess the memory doesn't matter much at all!

I also want one more card! Too bad I am not allowed







Even with just one card I am starting to think that i got the wrong case! very hard to fit all in it...


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Did you just get the second one recently?
It seems you should get new memory to unlock the rest of your rig! I bet you could get much higher benches... right?


He can oc that one.
49319 in 3d 03?That's rigth?


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
He can oc that one.
49319 in 3d 03?That's rigth?

I was talking about Cogno's rig


----------



## 00Smurf

My everest volts. This is with [email protected] 7x314 [email protected]/955 mem [email protected] 800mhz

Btw the new v4.00.xxx of everest thats on the website does not work with the asus board. half of the stuff doesn't detect and most of the sensors don;t work either.


----------



## cognoscenti

get Everest version 3.80.905 2007 version.

It fully supports this board.


----------



## DrewRosenHous

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*












how did that fit?

did you bend the hr-05 sli to get it to fit?


----------



## Robilar

Try this one:

Back when I had a pair.


----------



## joematrix

Ok guys, I got my new system put together today with the parts listed under my system. I powered it on, updated my bios to 1002, rebooted and set the options in the bios according to the guide, and am currently formatting the HD to install windows xp on. I look forward to your guys' help with OC'ing my system, and I will probably post some pictures of my setup in the next day or so. Wish me luck on a success windows install!


----------



## USlatin

Robilar, what do you mean you "had" a pair?


----------



## USlatin

Has anyone popped the black metal "lid" on the South Bridge? The black part with the logo? I'd love to see a picture of it if someone has.

Friday I am getting some copper HS and a few smaller sizes in aluminum to distribute about the system. I am going to fit four or more on the SB and I wonder if it would be better to remove said lid or just leave it there.


----------



## joematrix

I got my computer up and running, but have experienced a couple random restarts. I think my NB or SB might be running really hot, but I cannot find a program to monitor their temperature. Any suggestions on what to use would be helpful. If the best program is Everest, what edition works best and where can I download it (for free if possible).

Thanks guys, I want to get my computer running nice and stable so I can begin overclocking!


----------



## joematrix

I just installed Asus PC Probe II, and my CPU VTT monitor is in red. Right now it is at 1.63V. Any ideas how to fix that, or doesn't it matter?


----------



## USlatin

3.8 is the version of Everest you'd want


----------



## USlatin

Instability issues and Vcore

If you want to go right to the ending: Tried 1.41Vcore after Vdroop and couldn't get 451FSB!

I give up
:swearing:


----------



## joematrix

And where can I find Everest 3.8??


----------



## joematrix

So I am currently running Orthos, and I have a question about my CPU temps. CoreTemp is reporting that both cores are running at about 55C, while both NVidia Monitor and PC Probe II are reporting 41C. Which should I believe, since that is a different of 14C?


----------



## nuclearjock

believe CoreTemp.


----------



## Robilar

Coretemp is the only accurate temp monitor that works on this board.

USLatin I responded to your pm regarding overclocking, hope it helpedd.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Coretemp is the only accurate temp monitor that works on this board.

USLatin I responded to your pm regarding overclocking, hope it helpedd.

Yes indeed! But I asked a few more things







.

I just got CoreTemp and it seems to be running in unison with Speed Fan. How is speed fan? More questions! Aghhh, this noob is gonna kill me. Lol... hope you don't feel like that Robilar...


----------



## joematrix

I just wanted to let you all know that I successfully overclocked from 2.13GHz to 2.4GHz. It isn't much, but it's a start. I'm gonna run Orthos on it for a couple hours and see what happens.

Any ideas on how to monitor the NB temp? My case has a temp probe which I stuck in there and shows about 57C most of the time, but I would like something a little more accurate if possible. Everest doesn't show it for me, and I have version 3.5, which is the only one I could find.


----------



## USlatin

Dude, did you set all those things to Disabled?
If so just start off with a 450FSB... and save time, lol
(don't, take your time, I just hate all of you E6400 owners)


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Hope it helps











Are you Orthos stable with such a low NB voltage?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


I just wanted to let you all know that I successfully overclocked from 2.13GHz to 2.4GHz. It isn't much, but it's a start. I'm gonna run Orthos on it for a couple hours and see what happens.

Any ideas on how to monitor the NB temp? My case has a temp probe which I stuck in there and shows about 57C most of the time, but I would like something a little more accurate if possible. Everest doesn't show it for me, and I have version 3.5, which is the only one I could find.


Welcome to the forum.Nice now let;s go and push that oc more ok.For temps use core temp.Is the one it work better with this mobo.But if is for the NB,the best way to check is with a temps sensor.


----------



## joematrix

Well I ran it at 3.0Ghz stable for a while, but it was running fairly warm, at about 60C or so on load. I bumped it down to 2.6Ghz now, and it seems fairly stable. I have my RAM at 4-4-4-12 2T, but I cannot get 1T to boot. I think I may need to reapply AS5 to my heatsink in order to lower cpu temps, and get a better intake fan for my side panel. Any other suggestions are welcome.


----------



## USlatin

Do you guys know at what temp the NB starts causing instability?


----------



## alexisd

You follow the guide in the first page of this thred?You work with your NB and SB volt's?Im sure that chip can do better.But good catch watch the temps.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joematrix* 
Well I ran it at 3.0Ghz stable for a while, but it was running fairly warm, at about 60C or so on load. I bumped it down to 2.6Ghz now, and it seems fairly stable. I have my RAM at 4-4-4-12 2T, but I cannot get 1T to boot. I think I may need to reapply AS5 to my heatsink in order to lower cpu temps, and get a better intake fan for my side panel. Any other suggestions are welcome.

Did you just buy your RAM? if so you could get much better Ram for very similar prices. Search "G.Skill HZ". Other than that you seem to be on your way to a higher OC than mine with that chip. Just work out your N SB voltages and go for it with the Artic Silver on the CPU. Take a look at NB SB cooling in this thread too. They get super hot.









I't love to know at what temp the NB starts giving problems if anyone would please post back I would apreciate it greatly, and rep+







, I have 1.55V before Vdroop so it can't be voltage, after Vdroop it was very high too can't remember exactly though..


----------



## alexisd

What's your volt's in the NB?You know when you need nore volt's when you start to play with it.If no stable in orthos for some time let's said 20 minutes increase v core volt's if fail,lower the v core volt's and increase the nb volt's.You got the picture how to work with the nb volt's?


----------



## joematrix

So my computer likes to restart itself while I'm playing games and such, and I'm not sure why, unless it's my video card overheating, which I don't have overclocked at all.

Here are my voltages as reported by PC Probe II, let me know if anything stands out, as I'm still pretty new to overclocking:

Vcore: 1.41v
+3.3: 3.25v
+5.0: 5.03v
+12.0: 11.78v
1.2VHT: 1.26v
SB Core: 1.54v
NB Core: 1.33v
memory: 2.16v
DDR2 Term: 1.09v


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joematrix* 
So my computer likes to restart itself while I'm playing games and such, and I'm not sure why, unless it's my video card overheating, which I don't have overclocked at all.

Here are my voltages as reported by PC Probe II, let me know if anything stands out, as I'm still pretty new to overclocking:

Vcore: 1.41v
+3.3: 3.25v
+5.0: 5.03v
+12.0: 11.78v
1.2VHT: 1.26v
SB Core: 1.54v
NB Core: 1.33v
memory: 2.16v
DDR2 Term: 1.09v

1st don't use probe unless you have the 1002 bios.Probe is no accurate.
2nd you change or know what is you'r ram volt's?If you know you'r ram volts go in bios and set to the rigth volt's.
3rd you got any bsod?When windows load?


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
1st don't use probe unless you have the 1002 bios.Probe is no accurate.
2nd you change or know what is you'r ram volt's?If you know you'r ram volts go in bios and set to the rigth volt's.
3rd you got any bsod?When windows load?

I have the 1002 bios, so I should be alright with pc probe.

My ram is set to 2.1V in bios, which is what the ram is rated at.

I have not gotten any bsod beside 1 when I was first trying install windows. The computer will just go black and restart every once in a while.


----------



## alexisd

Download nvidia monitor.Is been tested and work fine with the 1002 bios.
Back to you'r problem what's you'r temps?For temps use core temp.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Download nvidia monitor.Is been tested and work fine with the 1002 bios.
Back to you'r problem what's you'r temps?For temps use core temp.

I have nvidia monitor already, so I'll use that for monitoring.

For my temps, it idles around 43-45C at 2.6ghz and probably close to 60c on load. These temps seem quite high for a e6400 on a mild overclock.


----------



## USlatin

I am starting to wonder if Windows XP 64-bit without updates is my problem... My WiFi card won't work so I haven't been able to update it. Or perhaps there are known problems with 64-bit period?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joematrix* 
I have nvidia monitor already, so I'll use that for monitoring.

For my temps, it idles around 43-45C at 2.6ghz and probably close to 60c on load. These temps seem quite high for a e6400 on a mild overclock.

Wha't your ambient temperature?


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 

Wha't your ambient temperature?

Well, I live in a dorm room right now, and the heat hasn't been on much lately, so it's actually kinda chilly in my room. I'm not sure of an exact temp, but it should be below average room temperature.


----------



## Robilar

nvidia monitor is not accurate for cpu temps. As mentioned above use core temp.


----------



## menko2

i just bought my new whole computer based in this guide.

thank you very much for all the help i have been reading in all the posts.

i never mount a whole new pc so iÂ´m a little scared (cables, arctic silver 5, mount properly,....).

do you have any recomendation to do in the bios before overclocking?? i will run the system for a few days before overclock.

maybe flash the bios with the usb stick??? with one is best 903 or 1002???

thatÂ´s what i bought;

E6600 -------- THERMALRIGHT ULTRA 120MM + SCYNTHE FAN
P5N32-3 -------- SCYNTHE FOR NORTHBRIDGE AND SB (X2)
OCZ 0C8500 SLI- NO COOLER FOR THIS??
XFX 8800GTX XXX (625-2000)
OCZ 700W SLI

i just hope to have system for a long long long time after spending $$$$!!









let me know if something can help me to mount and after overclock all this.

thanks


----------



## menko2

i forgot to mention, i have an x-fi extreme gamer. i know itÂ´s fine with 903, but with 1002??


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joematrix* 
Well, I live in a dorm room right now, and the heat hasn't been on much lately, so it's actually kinda chilly in my room. I'm not sure of an exact temp, but it should be below average room temperature.

Great! Yea, dorms are usually freezing cold!








Ambient temperature is super important when cooling by air since it is the air circulating through the heat sinks that picks up some of that heat. the colder the air, the more energy it will tent to pick up due to a bigger difference between the two temps. Now if you could try to get a read of the temperature and if you can keep it round where the case is so you can tell when your rig is running hotter due to differences in the weather or AC. I like to test for max temperatures while it is as hot as my apt. gets. I live in the Valley in LA, so i am trying to get my rig summer-proofed. Unbearable heat for those that never live in Florida like me.









If you haven't done anything for your NB and SB I would consider getting a few 40mm fans and a set of copper heatsinks about 12mm x 12mm x 15mm. I will ad four of those on the SB and a fan on top. Then I have a fan on the NB (look in my gallery) and will ad a couple of the hearsinks to the sides of it. Then I am going to try to mount a little 40mm on each of the heatsinks that are by the processor. It will be half the price of the two coolers everyone is getting, but I am mainly doing it because I liked the copper pipes and tried to keep them, and now I can't stop... lol it will be a custom rigged weird beast, but it should be cool.

Happy post 500 for me!


----------



## 00Smurf

Something coolu can do with everest and a g15 kybd. This is what i have my configured to do. Very handy to have all this data on your kybd.


----------



## USlatin

super cool, temps and voltages, nice!!!

EDIT, I think I am getting it and returning my bluetooth MX 5000... now only if Logitech made one of those vertical mice... I will get the gaming laser first and try that out... hate to see my current mouse go, but it was a bundle


----------



## menko2

everybody 903 or 1002??


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*


everybody 903 or 1002??


903 here

thanks uslatin


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


If you haven't done anything for your NB and SB I would consider getting a few 40mm fans and a set of copper heatsinks about 12mm x 12mm x 15mm. I will ad four of those on the SB and a fan on top. Then I have a fan on the NB (look in my gallery) and will ad a couple of the hearsinks to the sides of it. Then I am going to try to mount a little 40mm on each of the heatsinks that are by the processor. It will be half the price of the two coolers everyone is getting, but I am mainly doing it because I liked the copper pipes and tried to keep them, and now I can't stop... lol it will be a custom rigged weird beast, but it should be cool.


Well, I am thinking of getting the thermaltake fan/heatsink for my NB, but I'll probably leave the SB alone for now. Also, I think a big problem for heat for me might be my intake, as I only have one fan on my side panel acting as intake, and it only spins at about 1600rpm. I will more than likely be getting a new, faster fan for intake to replace that one, and hopefully that will help some.


----------



## DrewRosenHous

alright so after having some issues with stock voltage I did a little testing last night. I was able to get my cpu up to [email protected] 4-4-4-12 [email protected] I guess the board was picky about high voltage at lower frequencies but I had orthos going all night and it passed fine. my only concern is that core temp registered my cpu at about 65C during load, is this too high? take a look at the attachment and tell me if you see any adjustments I should make with the voltages or anything else.

edit: attachment didnt work see the thumbnail.


----------



## Robilar

That is within thermal limits but acceptable. Orthos pushes your cpu higher than anything else does.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*


everybody 903 or 1002??


1002


----------



## joematrix

So Robilar, I have an e6400 @ 2.8GHz right now, and it idles at about 43-45C. Does that seem a little too high? If so, I will try reapplying AC5 to my heatsink.


----------



## menko2

i will put the 1002 then. does it have problem with my x-fi card???

i bought this;
E6600 -------- THERMALRIGHT ULTRA 120MM + SCYNTHE FAN
P5N32-3 -------- SCYNTHE FOR NORTHBRIDGE AND SB (X2)
OCZ 0C8500 SLI- NO COOLER FOR THIS??
XFX 8800GTX XXX (625-2000)
OCZ 700W SLI

will it be ok???

iÂ´m going to mount a complete pc for the first time i think tomorrow....


----------



## Robilar

Joe, idle isn't really important. my chip idles at 39C at 3.47. Its load that matters as idle is often a function of case airflow. What kind of temps do you get with orthos running?

menko, after the 0602 bios, the x-fi issues have been resolved. This only came into play with two 8800 cards in sli though so either way you are fine.

If you want a cooler for your ocz ram, get this one:
http://www.infonec.com/site/main.php...tail&id=332329


----------



## joematrix

I believe when I was running Orthos @ 3.0Ghz, CoreTemp was reporting about 57C. I know I have some airflow issues in my case, and I am going to work on that soon. I am now going to try 3.0Ghz at 1.25v vcore, and see if that is stable.

Edit: Orthos running @ 3.0GHz, coretemp shows 66C now. Is this a little too high?


----------



## sloejack

Hello all, I've been pouring through this thread for a week now, and my newly purchased gear just arrived yesterday. After getting it all assembled and verifying that everything appears to work as advertised I started trying to apply the collected wisdom here. However, I think I must be missing some basic knowledge because it's just not working out for me.

I naturally have the P5N32-E SLI board, CPU is a E6600 2.4 GHz CPU, memory is 4x 1GB Corsair Dominator 6400, and the eVGA 8800 GTX (base GTX). For CPU cooling I got the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 with the fan to take the place of the Intel cooler. I also got the Dominator Fan to drop over the memory chips. The case is a Lian-Li with 120mm intake fan in the back and a 120mm exhaust in the front. Temperature wise things are cool.

As far as overclocking/BIOS changes, I've done the following:
For the Memory I increased the memory voltage to 2.1v and turned on the SLI-Ready Memory at 0% to get timings of 4-4-4-12-T1. So for starters, mostly all good (sound with the included board isn't working).

Ok, so here's where I'm stuck. In reading the FAQ I think I understand what's being said and the logic behind it. What I seem to be missing is how to adjust the FSB from the BIOS. I can do it from within vista using the AiBooster but its been noted elsewhere that this is probably not the way to do it. nTune seems to have some features for adjusting this, but again its been noted to primarily work on the GPU and not so well on the board. Aside from being able to adjust the speed of the CPU, I'm unclear as to the voltage changes that need to be made. I understand clocking it up needs more power but other than a lot of trial and error (which it feels like I've been on the losing side of) is there at least a good rule of thumb that I can follow (hoping some of the other E6600 owners could chime in here) to get me close so I can go from there?


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sloejack*


Hello all, I've been pouring through this thread for a week now, and my newly purchased gear just arrived yesterday. After getting it all assembled and verifying that everything appears to work as advertised I started trying to apply the collected wisdom here. However, I think I must be missing some basic knowledge because it's just not working out for me.

I naturally have the P5N32-E SLI board, CPU is a E6600 2.4 GHz CPU, memory is 4x 1GB Corsair Dominator 6400, and the eVGA 8800 GTX (base GTX). For CPU cooling I got the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 with the fan to take the place of the Intel cooler. I also got the Dominator Fan to drop over the memory chips. The case is a Lian-Li with 120mm intake fan in the back and a 120mm exhaust in the front. Temperature wise things are cool.

As far as overclocking/BIOS changes, I've done the following:
For the Memory I increased the memory voltage to 2.1v and turned on the SLI-Ready Memory at 0% to get timings of 4-4-4-12-T1. So for starters, mostly all good (sound with the included board isn't working).

Ok, so here's where I'm stuck. In reading the FAQ I think I understand what's being said and the logic behind it. What I seem to be missing is how to adjust the FSB from the BIOS. I can do it from within vista using the AiBooster but its been noted elsewhere that this is probably not the way to do it. nTune seems to have some features for adjusting this, but again its been noted to primarily work on the GPU and not so well on the board. Aside from being able to adjust the speed of the CPU, I'm unclear as to the voltage changes that need to be made. I understand clocking it up needs more power but other than a lot of trial and error (which it feels like I've been on the losing side of) is there at least a good rule of thumb that I can follow (hoping some of the other E6600 owners could chime in here) to get me close so I can go from there?


for the fan, use riva tuner. and use the low level fan setting at 100%. set it to load the profile at startup.

how is the 4gb of ram doing? any problems with getting it to run. I'd recommend 2.2volts for the mem. 2.1 is for the lower corsair. 2.2 for dominator. I ran into some stability issues at 2.1


----------



## 00Smurf

Hey does this seem right for 2 wd 36.6 raptors in raid? also will the 150gb raptors give me a performace boost over the 36 ers. Is there any spec difference aside form the larger storage space?


----------



## sloejack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *00Smurf*


for the fan, use riva tuner. and use the low level fan setting at 100%. set it to load the profile at startup.

how is the 4gb of ram doing? any problems with getting it to run. I'd recommend 2.2volts for the mem. 2.1 is for the lower corsair. 2.2 for dominator. I ran into some stability issues at 2.1


The fan? I'm not sure how that plays into OCing the processor at this point, like I said running nice and cool at the moment but since I'm not doing any thing that's probably why.

I'll see about pumping up the voltage on the memory though at the moment the timings on it seem more than reasonable.

The BIOS recognizes all 4 GB, Vista on the other hand only sees 3.25 GB even after forcing the PAE so the jury is still out on that.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sloejack*


The fan? I'm not sure how that plays into OCing the processor at this point, like I said running nice and cool at the moment but since I'm not doing any thing that's probably why.

I'll see about pumping up the voltage on the memory though at the moment the timings on it seem more than reasonable.

The BIOS recognizes all 4 GB, Vista on the other hand only sees 3.25 GB even after forcing the PAE so the jury is still out on that.


My bad, it doesn't, i thought you were talking about the gpu fan. For my cpu fan i just set the switch to hi.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *00Smurf* 









Hey does this seem right for 2 wd 36.6 raptors in raid? also will the 150gb raptors give me a performace boost over the 36 ers. Is there any spec difference aside form the larger storage space?

That seems about right. The primary difference with the new raptor 150's is a better platter design and 16 MB of cache (although they make the 74 GB in 16 mb and I think they had 36 gb with it as well).

I went from a 74 gb raptor to a 150 and saw no difference. My 74 gb raptors raided were faster than a single raptor x though.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
That seems about right. The primary difference with the new raptor 150's is a better platter design and 16 MB of cache (although they make the 74 GB in 16 mb and I think they had 36 gb with it as well).

I went from a 74 gb raptor to a 150 and saw no difference. My 74 gb raptors raided were faster than a single raptor x though.

in everest it says mine have 8mb cache. I really want a 16mb cache on my hd. whats the performace increase from 8mb to 16mb?

also what do you all think of this with 2 120mm fans attached to it?
http://www.clubit.com/product_detail...mno=CA1906039#


----------



## Robilar

Not huge but I'm fussy that way as well. Regarding the gemini, A1CON (I think thats his sig) on this forum got one recently. Check with him and see if it helps.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Not huge but I'm fussy that way as well. Regarding the gemini, A1CON (I think thats his sig) on this forum got one recently. Check with him and see if it helps.

i searched ofr that sig, no luck though.


----------



## sloejack

I think I found the answer to my own question. The issue I was having was that I was not able to adjust the FSB from the BIOS when I choose to unlink the memory bus from the FSB (all those options grey out). I instead configured it to be linked at 4:3 and was able to push the CPU up to 3.2 with some relatively minor tweaking of the vCore. The downside however is that my Memory Timings are attrocius. Everest is reporting my memory bus at 474.7 Mhz and the Timings are showing up as 5-6-6-22 2T. I think the thing I got confused on with the first post is choosing to go unlinked vs. linked. Clearly by choosing to go unlinked I was unable to do any CPU tweaking from the BIOS.


----------



## 00Smurf

so i can post and go to windows at 1750fsb but it is extremely unstable. this is with [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Plus anything below that till 7.0x320 is unstable as well. It'll go to windows and then it'll just go to a black screen and sometimes restart or just sit there at a blank screen till you restart it. no blue screens only black. right now 7.0x320 w/ vcore @1.40 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] and mem at 2.2 is rock solid stable. cpu temps are 45c under full load. Any one have any ideas on what to do. Ideally i would like a 3.0 ghz clock speed but I'll settle for 2.8ghz. Which should be relatively easy to achieve.


----------



## 00Smurf

some pics of whats stable atm


----------



## 00Smurf

oh and one last thing. i can't set the clocks on my memory for my gpu. When i hit set clocks it says they are set but the only thing that changes is the core and shader clock. the mem just stays the same.


----------



## USlatin

On Everest:
To see your temps and voltages in (close) to real time click on *MyComputer* then *Sensor*

To see what you have your memory timings set at look in *Motherboard* then *Chipset*

Wait, I just realized... you are talking about your video memory
On my Everest it doesn't even see the speed my RAM is sted at, just my GPU oc


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
On Everest:
To see your temps and voltages in (close) to real time click on *MyComputer* then *Sensor*

To see what you have your memory timings set at look in *Motherboard* then *Chipset*

Wait, I just realized... you are talking about your video memory

yeah its really weird. it was working fine the other day now its stuck on the not o/c the memory thing. I'm going to try this out:

"i flashed my 8800GTS card with the XXX bios.
at stock the shaderclocks are 1188 and the XXX bios has it at 1500 + the core goes from 513 to 575 and mem from 1584 to 1800, so it`s a big speed gain.
u can alter the XXX bios in Nbitor and rais the clocks evenmore if u want, i have mine at 600/1550/1850

upsides=gain in speed ofcorce
downsides=None realy, u do get more heat and it uses more power + u may lower it`s life expectensy,u loose waranty,but just flash it back if u need to RMA it..
dangers= well if your card can`t handle the clocks it "can" get damanged,but most likly it will just give u artifacts and lockups,and if that happens just flash it back.

i have flashed 3 8800gts cards two 640 and one 320 and they all could handle it fine. + they OC even higher now. my Max (i think,haven`t puched it) is 660/2050 now..

U have the XXX bios here:http://www.mvktech.net/component/opt...at,70/page,10/

There are only one XXX rev,but there are for both 640mb and 320mb. and even if there were more revs it doesn`t matter it`s just an bios update,sometimes an older rev oces better,that was the case for me on my old NV40 card.

U download the Bios extract it on a floppy disk,download Nvflash 5.50: http://www.mvktech.net/component/opt...rent,category/
Extract both files on to the floppy. restart your comp in Dos then type : Nvflash -5 -6 (the name of the file,your choise) .rom then press Y
Alsow download the normal 8800GTS bios and extract it on to the floppy disk if u need to flash it back..

U can see the shader clocks in the Prog Nibitor 3.3 found here : http://www.mvktech.net/component/opt...rent,category/"


----------



## cognoscenti

Personally i wouldnt bother flashing gpu's....

If you want hell bent performance just sli GTS's or buy GTX models.


----------



## USlatin

I am hitting a wall at 630-1030 or 635-950 (probably can up the memory with the 635 but haven't tried)

Does flashing the BIOS in fact make the card be able to handle higher OCs?

Cogno, it is obvious that SL'ing you'll get crazy performance, but I can't pass that expense through my fiance since the only program I use for work that is video-card intensive and the only one that even uses it at all is a color correction and look creator for editing called Magic Bullet... however please let us know a bit more about your GTS SLI experience. Eventually (when GTSs hit lower $150 territory I will SLI, it will be time for a gift again







)

BTW 150k is nice!


----------



## menko2

i´m going to install the extreme spirit II.

is it better to use the thermal paste that comes with it, or is it better the arctic silver 5??


----------



## cognoscenti

Use AS5









Yes that is A S 5 not ASS


----------



## menko2

thank you man.

i´m having some troubles mounting everthing in the board.

i don´t know which direction the spirit will face (i saw in the guide towards the graphic cards....i don´t know if it will cause problems to the graphic card 880gtx), and if the northbridge will fit with the thermaltake ultra + fan.

any help??


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*


thank you man.

i´m having some troubles mounting everthing in the board.

i don´t know which direction the spirit will face (i saw in the guide towards the graphic cards....i don´t know if it will cause problems to the graphic card 880gtx), and if the northbridge will fit with the thermaltake ultra + fan.

any help??


----------



## menko2

nice!! it looks great at night picture!!

i can see you put a diferent cooler in the southbridge and the spirit facing the memories.

i think that with the ultra, i´m going to have to put the spirit in the facing the graphic card (the ultra it´s huge) and the southbridge facing the sata ports (i have an x-fi).

is this right???


----------



## menko2

the reality: it´s frustated.

it´s the first time i mount a PC and i don´t know how to start.

should i mount the board in the case first or the cpu, coolers,.... and then put it in the case??


----------



## Robilar

I usually build and test a system outside the case before installing it. I just find that if it crashes or doesn't boot, it' easier to figure it out with all the parts on a desk.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *00Smurf*


in everest it says mine have 8mb cache. I really want a 16mb cache on my hd. whats the performace increase from 8mb to 16mb?

also what do you all think of this with 2 120mm fans attached to it?
http://www.clubit.com/product_detail...mno=CA1906039#


Sorry got his sig wrong, its *1c0n* .


----------



## menko2

all right.

i will put it all outside first to see if it works.

in which order will you mount all the elements??


----------



## cognoscenti

why isnt this thread a sticky yet?


----------



## Robilar

I think I have to ask nicely.


----------



## USlatin

Maybe just give the first post a new edit, there are a few things not mentioned in it that you only get by reading the whole thing. Then ask and they'll sticky it no matter how you ask, as long as you don't curse at them.


----------



## alexisd

I think i ask for this guide to be sticky,like 1 month ago.
Im thinking in open a P5N32 SLI 680i official thread,what you think people.Im goin to need some ,extra help in try to keep the thread goin.


----------



## Robilar

If they convert this to a sticky it will serve the same purpose.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
If they convert this to a sticky it will serve the same purpose.

I hope they make a sticky.Like that we have the information only in 1 place.


----------



## Robilar

I sent a pm to the admin requesting it.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I sent a pm to the admin requesting it.

Yesss.


----------



## alexisd

Sry,double post but.You think i can hit 1t with this setting and timming's?I know we discuss higher timming are better like 5 5 5 10 @ 1000 2t ,But just thinking about it.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Sry,double post but.You think i can hit 1t with this setting and timming's?I know we discuss higher timming are better like 5 5 5 10 @ 1000 2t ,But just thinking about it.

If you get G.Skill HZs you will, and you will at 1100 too








I got better Super Pis at 4-4-4-5-1T 950MHz though


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


If you get G.Skill HZs you will, and you will at 1100 too








I got better Super Pis at 4-4-4-5-1T 950MHz though


LOL.I don't try yet.But nothing wrong with my memory OK.I hit with my set up 3.6 and some more and high memory setting's too.


----------



## joematrix

So I think this has been brought up a couple of times, but what version of Everest is the most compatible with this motherboard, and where can I download it?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


So I think this has been brought up a couple of times, but what version of Everest is the most compatible with this motherboard, and where can I download it?


3.8 seems the best for now.


----------



## cognoscenti

I pulled out some parts and reinstalled them and now i have *no sata ports *at all working! Grrrrrrrrr

Tried about a million reboots and different cables and combinations!


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
I pulled out some parts and reinstalled them and now i have *no sata ports* at all working! Grrrrrrrrr

Tried about a million reboots and different cables and combinations!









It happen to me but with a sata dvd ,and the solution was change $5.00 cable.


----------



## cognoscenti

its everything, sata DVD and all sata hard drives.


----------



## USlatin

weird... I can't figure out how to get XP Media Center to recognize my two RAIDS but my single HDD and optical have been fine... I didn't care since I was switching to XP 64-bit, but now that I got an external mixer that converts analogue to digital I decided to save me the hassle of switching everything.

Cables:
I am waiting for Jab-Bech to get *THESE BABIES* back on stock... *Incredible deal at $2.50 each*, and perfect for the SATA ports that are so incredibly close to the Antec 900's HDDs. Try with the ASUS red cables if you still have them, then order these if long enough for your monster case.


----------



## USlatin

Sorry but I just wanted to share that the G15 is great in that you can download a hundred little applets made by people like use for free and monitor your voltages temps and all... great little tool for the stable extreme 24/7 overclock.


----------



## joematrix

I'm thinking about returning the RAM I got to newegg, and getting that G.Skill HZ stuff because my computer likes to randomly restart itself while I'm playing Lord of the Rings Online, and when I booted up this morning, Windows said that it had recovered from a serious error. I sent an error report and it said that it was a problem with my RAM. Any thoughts?


----------



## Creepy Jon

I've done a lot of homework on ram on this motherboard. From what I've found ocz sucks, only the 8500 sli ram works. Corsair is about 50/50 for most people it works ok but some people have major issues with it. I would recommend crucial ram, or any other sli enabled ram. I guess g skills are ok as well, haven't heard anyone have problems with them.


----------



## 00Smurf

For Uslatin:








And setting it up like that will give you:


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Creepy Jon* 
I've done a lot of homework on ram on this motherboard. From what I've found ocz sucks, only the 8500 sli ram works. Corsair is about 50/50 for most people it works ok but some people have major issues with it. I would recommend crucial ram, or any other sli enabled ram. I guess g skills are ok as well, haven't heard anyone have problems with them.

From what I've seen personally as well as what the posters have listed as issues, its not so much the brand but the IC involved. I've used both Corsair and OCZ on the board but both are the Micron D9 sets. Also, the Gskill with microns (the hz) seems fine as well. The low end corsair 6400 has been hit or miss but its using promos ic's. Also a couple of posts I've seen regarding patriot ram (again with lower IC's). It seems like the board needs better quality ram (not always but frequently) to ensure stable operation.

With the proper ram, this board is rock solid and of course the benefit of better quality ram is higher overclocks.


----------



## esco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
From what I've seen personally as well as what the posters have listed as issues, its not so much the brand but the IC involved. I've used both Corsair and OCZ on the board but both are the Micron D9 sets. Also, the Gskill with microns (the hz) seems fine as well. The low end corsair 6400 has been hit or miss but its using promos ic's. Also a couple of posts I've seen regarding patriot ram (again with lower IC's). It seems like the board needs better quality ram (not always but frequently) to ensure stable operation.

With the proper ram, this board is rock solid and of course the benefit of better quality ram is higher overclocks.


Very true and sadly i learned the hard. PC works but overclocking not that great. Ordering some OCZ 8500s soon.

On another note, i recently called Evga to try and get some more advice on how i can fix my 8800gtx issues i have (nvlddmkm). The service rep informed me that the network access manager that comes with the p5n32 is causing issues with my card/vista and that i should disbale them. Right now i am completely confused. He can't be telling me that i have to go into bios and disable lan? I am at a loss.


----------



## Robilar

Network access manager is a part of the 680i chipset driver package that you load either via the asus cd or from the nvidia site. It is serious crap. It causes games to crash ( I thought it was my video card too). Uninstall your chipset drivers package and reload the one from the nvidia site. Make sure to say no when it asks if you want to load network access manager.


----------



## cognoscenti

Is there a recommended upgrade from this board yet?
Mine is now kaput and Im looking to buy a new board...or should I rebuy this one again?

Robilar, I found another one for sale and the seller had this with the ad._*

For sale because nVidia drivers dont properly support RAID...performance is capped around 120MB/S sustained, so no use to me. (this is a problem applicable to about 90% of 680I boards I have seen results from, irrespective of maker)

Apart from that, works fine. Been used for around 3 days. Comes retail boxed with all accessories

Suitable for G80 SLI!! The board layout is pretty good, but the chipset is pretty toasty (ie..very hot) I will not accept returns if the board fails due to inadequate cooling!*_


----------



## esco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Network access manager is a part of the 680i chipset driver package that you load either via the asus cd or from the nvidia site. It is serious crap. It causes games to crash ( I thought it was my video card too). Uninstall your chipset drivers package and reload the one from the nvidia site. Make sure to say no when it asks if you want to load network access manager.

Ahhh ty!!! I remember being asked if i wanted to install this when i was upgrading the chipset drivers for XP. I replied yes not knowing would cause this issue. As far as Vista goes i cannot remember if i did or not. Will do a complete reformat and try when i get home from work. I am at wits end with this card and want make sure it is not the mb causing the compatibility isse.


----------



## esco

After speaking with them agains was asked to make sure there were no icq issues and to disable all icq options in bios not needed. Cannot think of any options in bios i left enabled that i did not need.


----------



## alexisd

My though for this board is,if you know what you want or doing=is for you.If not get different board.Since i check in this board and been ,using it i don't have any problem"s.I really liked.So far it work with anything i try,hdd good,memory good,gpu good,psu good,all the benches good.I use my setting's everyday use,gamming,editing,music,ect ect.Mean find the settings that work for you and enjoy.
Just my 2 cents=


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Is there a recommended upgrade from this board yet?
Mine is now kaput and Im looking to buy a new board...or should I rebuy this one again?

Robilar, I found another one for sale and the seller had this with the ad._*

For sale because nVidia drivers dont properly support RAID...performance is capped around 120MB/S sustained, so no use to me. (this is a problem applicable to about 90% of 680I boards I have seen results from, irrespective of maker)

Apart from that, works fine. Been used for around 3 days. Comes retail boxed with all accessories

Suitable for G80 SLI!! The board layout is pretty good, but the chipset is pretty toasty (ie..very hot) I will not accept returns if the board fails due to inadequate cooling!*_



I like your other avatars better!









The board we have is the best 680i board out. The only other option you would have would be to get a 975x chipset board like the asus p5w dh deluxe and run modded drivers but its only 8x8x and the drivers are very out of date and may have issues with 8800's. I haven't seen anyone running a raid on a 650i board. The alternative might be the newer Asus P5N32-E Plus. There really isn't any data as to what it does. The sb is 570i so the board is technically a 650i hybrid but that may not solve your raid issues. Or you could go with a 650i board like the p5n-e but it only has 8x8x support and is not rated for over 800 mhz ram.

I only ran a raid setup briefly on this board with a pair of 74 gb raptors. The performance seemed fine but I did not do as detailed an analysis (nor did I run into the issues you have had).


----------



## alexisd

Is like i said [Robilar] maybe this board is too complicate for some and no for other people.And so far i don't have any of the issues that i see in this whole thread,and fell sry for those members.Maybe they think that the board is faulty and is no good.We try to help the best we can.


----------



## cognoscenti

I like this board very much and got a good 24/7 gaming clock of 3.48 on air!

I have no complaints apart from these minor ones
-Only 6 sata ports...
-Horizontal sata as opposed to the vertical connections
-Cheap plastic broke easily on the ports
-Raid issues
-Board is VERY hot

Other than that I love it from the bios to the bits


----------



## t047

This board is great too, although I had issues with the LDT freq and I get crashes but im gonna update the software to fix the crashes, OCs excellent though!


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t047*


This board is great too, although I had issues with the LDT freq and I get crashes but im gonna update the software to fix the crashes, OCs excellent though!


Lol you have superb taste in hardware too I see!


----------



## cognoscenti

Found some cheap at this site

Whats the difference between these two?? (one seems to have wifi)

Neither are the exact model I have.

*ASUS P5N32-SLI Deluxe* NF4 SLI, S775, PCI-E (x16), DDR2 667, SATA II, SATA RAID, ATX
£123.36 Inc VAT
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Produ...oductID=304093

*
Asus P5N32 SLI Premium/WiFi-AP* NF590 SLI, S775, PCI-E (x16), DDR2 667/800, SATA II, SATA RAID, ATX
£117.96
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Produ...oductID=459994


----------



## Robilar

Those are both using the original nf4 chipset and are neither 650i or 680i chipsets. they also won't overclock over about 350 FSB regardless of chip or stepping.

The only chip that would make those boards worthwhile is one with an unlocked multi. Then you could do for example 10 or 11x an fsb to get a decent overclock. Even then, the boards have very little control over vcore and would prevent much OC.


----------



## Dman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Found some cheap at this site

Whats the difference between these two?? (one seems to have wifi)

Neither are the exact model I have.

*ASUS P5N32-SLI Deluxe* NF4 SLI, S775, PCI-E (x16), DDR2 667, SATA II, SATA RAID, ATX
Â£123.36 Inc VAT
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Produ...oductID=304093

*
Asus P5N32 SLI Premium/WiFi-AP* NF590 SLI, S775, PCI-E (x16), DDR2 667/800, SATA II, SATA RAID, ATX
Â£117.96
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Produ...oductID=459994



One of the boards is the Nforce 4 chipset the other is the nforce 590 chipset for intel. Both are terrible overclockers and are basically a rehash of an amd chipset. The 600 series is really the only good nforce chipset for intel right now if you intend to overclock.


----------



## Robilar

I type faster DMAN


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Those are both using the original nf4 chipset and are neither 650i or 680i chipsets. they also won't overclock over about 350 FSB regardless of chip or stepping.

The only chip that would make those boards worthwhile is one with an unlocked multi. Then you could do for example 10 or 11x an fsb to get a decent overclock. Even then, the boards have very little control over vcore and would prevent much OC.


Ok thanks, my bad.

Here is the same as mine I think. Still expensive.
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...atid=5&subcat=


----------



## Robilar

Thats the plus version. its technically a 650i. I suggested it above for completeness. Its main difference is the sb chipset.


----------



## cognoscenti

When the plus was released there was a cross-shipment replacement policy?

I mean since there was an issue with the SB on our non plus earlier models?

I will order this one on monday so I can get my PC running again.
Im tempted to add that qx6700 to the basket too....


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Creepy Jon* 
I've done a lot of homework on ram on this motherboard. From what I've found ocz sucks, only the 8500 sli ram works. Corsair is about 50/50 for most people it works ok but some people have major issues with it. I would recommend crucial ram, or any other sli enabled ram. I guess g skills are ok as well, haven't heard anyone have problems with them.

I did have a slight "problem" with G. Skill HZs when first installing it as one of my sticks wasn't recognized... next ser after RMA worked perfect.


----------



## USlatin

EDIT: got righ of the video card's clocks since they were waaaay off and instead have the MoBo and GPU's temps in bold on the bottom right.... apparently many of the LCD values on Everest are off. It will be hard to pick what to display but once you do it it is so nice to have it available 24/7... fortunately the CPU's core temps are on the money, as it the GPU's temp.










Rep+ Smurf

Wow Cogno, easy on those SATA ports... ouch!
You think there might be a couple of connectors touching each other in one of the broken ports and that's making the board turn off your ports?


----------



## 00Smurf

Cogno,
I'm running to 36.6gb raptors in raid and haven't had a problem yet. I have them on sata ports 1 and 2 in a raid 0 config. i have a 320gb on sata 6. 
But i am using xp, so maybe its a vista issue or are you back with xp now?

thx for the rep uslatin nice lcd. word to the g15


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
When the plus was released there was a cross-shipment replacement policy?

I mean since there was an issue with the SB on our non plus earlier models?

I will order this one on monday so I can get my PC running again.
Im tempted to add that qx6700 to the basket too....

No because the plus is technically a downgrade from the non plus (other than the solid caps). The plus is cheaper as well but they exist side by side.


----------



## DrewRosenHous

I got a slight problem. I was 11hrs orthos stable at 3.6Ghz on stock chipset cooler. I installed the thermaltake spirit II last night and now I cant evem get 3.5Ghz orthos stable. Any ideas?


----------



## joematrix

I am having a problem with random reboots during long periods of gaming. I have no idea what is causing it, but here's what I do know.

It's not the network access manager because I uninstalled the chipset drivers and reinstalled the one's from Nvidia's website like Robilar said.
It shouldn't be a heat issue, because I had my side panel off and had a large desk fan blowing right into the side, keeping things nice and cool, and it still rebooted once during gaming.
I do not think it is a problem with my RAM, as I just ran Memtest for over 9 hours and had 0 errors.
It also shouldn't be my overclock, since I ran Orthos for several hours @3.0Ghz with no errors.

So, I have no idea what the problem could be, but I would appreciate any help.


----------



## DrewRosenHous

well my chipset ran extremely hot on the stock heatpipe but still would pass orthos fine at 3.6Ghz. I replaced the southbridge with the spirit II and I added a 40mm fan on the northbridge. To the touch the southbridge cooler is only slightly warm and the northbridge feels cool. Im thinking the southbridge didnt matte to the base of the cooler or its just not moving alot of heat. I now have the side of my case off and so far its running stable at 3.5Ghz for 1 1/2 hours so I think its a heat related issue. This board runs so dam hot Im considering investing in water cooling. Also I have one question about the spirit II installation, I used the long screws for installation but I noticed Rob is using the shorter top screws, does it matter which ones I use?

Is there a program that measures nb and sb temps?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


I am having a problem with random reboots during long periods of gaming. I have no idea what is causing it, but here's what I do know.

It's not the network access manager because I uninstalled the chipset drivers and reinstalled the one's from Nvidia's website like Robilar said.
It shouldn't be a heat issue, because I had my side panel off and had a large desk fan blowing right into the side, keeping things nice and cool, and it still rebooted once during gaming.
I do not think it is a problem with my RAM, as I just ran Memtest for over 9 hours and had 0 errors.
It also shouldn't be my overclock, since I ran Orthos for several hours @3.0Ghz with no errors.

So, I have no idea what the problem could be, but I would appreciate any help.



How often are the reboots?

What are you running when it happens?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DrewRosenHous*


well my chipset ran extremely hot on the stock heatpipe but still would pass orthos fine at 3.6Ghz. I replaced the southbridge with the spirit II and I added a 40mm fan on the northbridge. To the touch the southbridge cooler is only slightly warm and the northbridge feels cool. Im thinking the southbridge didnt matte to the base of the cooler or its just not moving alot of heat. I now have the side of my case off and so far its running stable at 3.5Ghz for 1 1/2 hours so I think its a heat related issue. This board runs so dam hot Im considering investing in water cooling. Also I have one question about the spirit II installation, I used the long screws for installation but I noticed Rob is using the shorter top screws, does it matter which ones I use?

Is there a program that measures nb and sb temps?


After installing aftermarket cooling to the NB and SB my board died and is now going RMA.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
How often are the reboots?

What are you running when it happens?

The reboots aren't very often, but tend to happen after a couple hours of playing Lord of the Rings Online. I have also experienced a couple reboots while running Orthos for about 2-3 hours.


----------



## DrewRosenHous

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


After installing aftermarket cooling to the NB and SB my board died and is now going RMA.


yea something is up with my board now, I cant get the thing nearly as stable as it was wit the stock chipsets coolers. 3.5Ghz-3.6 I was 12 hours orthos stable but I now I can barely pass an hour at any of those settings. I tried remounting the spirit II and then at last resort reinstalled my stock chipset coolers but now no matter what its unstable at my previous overclocks. Im probably going to have to rma it now.


----------



## cognoscenti

I started having crashes then sometimes the boot screen would take ages to come up and bios seemed slow.
Basically alot of strange errors started happening.
My sata completely died in the end, rendering the board virtually useless.


----------



## USlatin

Have you guys though of the possibility of the need for heatsinks to replace the little heatsinks that the NB and SB were connected to? Perhaps those little power boxes, whatever their name, do get hot too... which would possibly mean bad power to the CPU... can't hurt to try... little copper RAM heatsinks or something like it should be plenty...

I still have my stock cooling but added fans and copper RAM heatsinks to them to add more surface area. Looks kinda crude, but my temps aren't too bad.

I would also like to know what is the most reliable NB SB temp monitor.


----------



## DrewRosenHous

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Have you guys though of the possibility of the need for heatsinks to replace the little heatsinks that the NB and SB were connected to? Perhaps those little power boxes, whatever their name, do get hot too... which would possibly mean bad power to the CPU... can't hurt to try... little copper RAM heatsinks or something like it should be plenty...

I still have my stock cooling but added fans and copper RAM heatsinks to them to add more surface area. Looks kinda crude, but my temps aren't too bad.

I would also like to know what is the most reliable NB SB temp monitor.

I had aluminum ramsinks on them, also I believe robilar mentioned he didnt use any with his coolers and didnt suffer any instability.


----------



## USlatin

Wow... scary then... hope you guys figure this one out.


----------



## Creepy Jon

I cut the heat tubes off and left the copper cooling fin on the northbridge one. Those regulators are very important and they get very hot!!!! On my southbridge I'm using the asus optional fan that I got off ebay, it works pretty good so I would recomend getting one or two. My northbrige is a thermaltake one and it works ok.


----------



## DrewRosenHous

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Wow... scary then... hope you guys figure this one out.


I already gave up on troubleshooting and rma'ed the board, wasted half my weekend screwing with the thing and got fed up.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Creepy Jon*


I cut the heat tubes off and left the copper cooling fin on the northbridge one. Those regulators are very important and they get very hot!!!! On my southbridge I'm using the asus optional fan that I got off ebay, it works pretty good so I would recomend getting one or two. My northbrige is a thermaltake one and it works ok.


better hope your board never dies because I highly doubt theyll warranty your board if the heatpipes are sawed off. Ill probably just get another 40mm fan for my southbridge and stick it on with some thermal tape like I did with the nb.


----------



## joematrix

Well, I just finished adding another 80mm exhaust fan, installing the Thermaltake heatsink and fan to my northbridge, and lapping my Artic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro. Hopefully all of this will take care of any heat issues I had, and wish me luck on not having any more stability problems.

I will try to get some decent pictures taken of my system and upload them for you all to see. I am pretty happy with the overall look of it.


----------



## zues

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joematrix* 
I am having a problem with random reboots during long periods of gaming. I have no idea what is causing it, but here's what I do know.

It's not the network access manager because I uninstalled the chipset drivers and reinstalled the one's from Nvidia's website like Robilar said.
It shouldn't be a heat issue, because I had my side panel off and had a large desk fan blowing right into the side, keeping things nice and cool, and it still rebooted once during gaming.
I do not think it is a problem with my RAM, as I just ran Memtest for over 9 hours and had 0 errors.
It also shouldn't be my overclock, since I ran Orthos for several hours @3.0Ghz with no errors.

So, I have no idea what the problem could be, but I would appreciate any help.

If your having random reboot issues, turn off the 'reboot after error' option in your computer settings.

Right click on my computer, then properties. Then choose advanced, then startup and recover settings. Then uncheck the option that says 'automatically restart'. Thats the first part.

The second part is to wait for it to happen again. It will have blue screen with a code in the center of it. Right down this code and then let it reboot. You can also just pull up control panel, administrative tools and then event viewer and look at the error logs (there will be three to look through) and find the event of failure. If you look at the details there will be a link that sends the code to ms and returns the cause.

Its probably a memory exception. I wouldnt worry about it because of how long it takes but if your overclocking your memory back down a little.

If you running linux just look at /var/log/messages by 'cat var/log/messages | grep machine' for machine checks (memory errors).


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DrewRosenHous* 
I had aluminum ramsinks on them, also I believe robilar mentioned he didnt use any with his coolers and didnt suffer any instability.

I didnt have anything on there.


----------



## Robilar

I didn't have any coolers on the vrms for about a month without issues. I recently added the swiftech mc21 set as I plan to pick up a tower cpu cooler (the new thermalright ultra 120 extreme in conjunction with a silverstone fm121 fan, beats the tuniq hands down) when its released later this month. The tower coolers provide no airflow down onto the vrm area (like the zalman does) so I'm planning ahead.

I figure from what I've seen at the Anandtech testing on the Thermalright, that 3.9 stable on air with my x6800 should be fine (for benching purposes, not much point running it that high 24/7 for gaming). They tested the cooler with a low end fan and the silverstone is capable of 110 CFM.

http://www.anandtech.com/showdoc.aspx?i=2943&p=1

I also got the occasional random bsod and reboot (maybe once every two weeks or so. I've had about 4 so far in the last two months, once during call of duty 2 online). I figured it out though. I have my ram set at tight timings 4-4-4-8 @ 1T but left voltage on the memory set to auto. It seemed fine (other than those few crashes). I looked up my ram ratings and they are defaulted to 2.1V to run at stock and my auto memory settings for ddr voltage come out at 1.89V, meaning my memory is undervolted while at tighter timings than stock. I went in and changed memory voltage to 2.1 about a month ago and not a single crash since. Should have thought of it earlier when I saw the ram voltage running at 1.89 (I knew my ram runs from 2.1 up to 2.35 specced) but its so stable, I didn't see the bother.

Now my system also runs faster (dumb things we forget to do







)


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


I also got the occasional random bsod and reboot (maybe once every two weeks or so. I've had about 4 so far in the last two months, once during call of duty 2 online). I figured it out though. I have my ram set at tight timings 4-4-4-8 @ 1T but left voltage on the memory set to auto. It seemed fine (other than those few crashes). I looked up my ram ratings and they are defaulted to 2.1V to run at stock and my auto memory settings for ddr voltage come out at 1.89V, meaning my memory is undervolted while at tighter timings than stock. I went in and changed memory voltage to 2.1 about a month ago and not a single crash since. Should have thought of it earlier when I saw the ram voltage running at 1.89 (I knew my ram runs from 2.1 up to 2.35 specced) but its so stable, I didn't see the bother.


Same here. My random crashes went away as soon as i manually set my mem volts to 2.2. They recommened 2.2 for the corsair dominator ram.


----------



## Robilar

Did you notice that asus removed linkboost completely from the new 1002 bios?

My OCZ is recommended at 2.1 as mentioned. What volts were you getting with your memory voltage set to auto?


----------



## joematrix

Since the first boot, I manually changed the memory voltage to 2.1 volts, which is the recommended voltage from the manufacturer. I tried running at 4-4-4-12 @ 1T, but it was somewhat unstable even after bumping up voltage to 2.2V. I am now trying out 4-4-4-8 @ 2T with 2.1V, and I'll see how that holds up.

By the way, that Thermaltake northbridge cooler lowered my NB temp by almost 20C. Woot.


----------



## Robilar

Glad the spirit worked for you. I had excellent results as well which is what prompted me in part to start this thread.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Creepy Jon* 
I cut the heat tubes off and left the copper cooling fin on the northbridge one. Those regulators are very important and they get very hot!!!! On my southbridge I'm using the asus optional fan that I got off ebay, it works pretty good so I would recomend getting one or two. My northbrige is a thermaltake one and it works ok.

Eeek!

These are what I used instead:

i thought about that for all of about one second and then warranty issues flashed through my head.

These work great.


----------



## prestige68

Hi, I recently upgraded my machine with this mobo and have been experiencing a few problems with it, at first i had a lot of problems with a lot of random shut-downs at stock when running any sort of game, even when installing FEAR it would just shutdown during the install. I think i got a bad board and RMAed the first board, but now for the second board i have i am now getting internet problems, i am unable to access a lot of websites, i can't even get into my hotmail account, pretty much anything with a sign in page i can't access. can someone please help me with this problem, thank you


----------



## TsunoTakishi

Has anyone noticed the new Thermalright MOSFET coolers? Their site says that the P5N32E-SLI can fit 2 of them (I'm assuming). Do you think it would be worth investing in something that massive for the MOSFETs rather than something simpler and smaller?


----------



## USlatin

Just thought I'd post this screen... I am still at a loss trying to figure out which is my SB temp on Speed Fan (or any other app) but there is no doubt about the NB.

This is after racking up hours and hours on the Artic Silver 'tween my TT and the CPU, and though I don't have a thermometer in my new keyboard it can't possibly be any cooler than 24C. If anything it is more like 25.

Notice the Core Temp and Speed Fan reads aren't too far off. Speed Fan oscillated between +2 and -1 degrees when I was paying attention.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TsunoTakishi*


Has anyone noticed the new Thermalright MOSFET coolers? Their site says that the P5N32E-SLI can fit 2 of them (I'm assuming). Do you think it would be worth investing in something that massive for the MOSFETs rather than something simpler and smaller?


Sweet looking! The Swiftech set I used works fine (And is probably cheaper) but I'd be tempted by the thermalright set if I had to start over. I wonder if there are any clearance issues though regarding large coolers like the thermalright ultra 120 or tuniq?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Just thought I'd post this screen... I am still at a loss trying to figure out which is my SB temp on Speed Fan (or any other app) but there is no doubt about the NB.

This is after racking up hours and hours on the Artic Silver 'tween my TT and the CPU, and though I don't have a thermometer in my new keyboard it can't possibly be any cooler than 24C. If anything it is more like 25.

Notice the Core Temp and Speed Fan reads aren't too far off. Speed Fan oscillated between +2 and -1 degrees when I was paying attention.












Core temp and speedfan use similar polling for cpu temps. The nb/sb is a mystery to me as well. I've used a thermal temp probe on them to actively test the temps. I'll load speedfan again and try it in comparision to physical measurement and we'll see if they match.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *prestige68*


Hi, I recently upgraded my machine with this mobo and have been experiencing a few problems with it, at first i had a lot of problems with a lot of random shut-downs at stock when running any sort of game, even when installing FEAR it would just shutdown during the install. I think i got a bad board and RMAed the first board, but now for the second board i have i am now getting internet problems, i am unable to access a lot of websites, i can't even get into my hotmail account, pretty much anything with a sign in page i can't access. can someone please help me with this problem, thank you


A couple of things. I assume you loaded the nvidia 680i chipset drivers from their site when you were building the system? Also, make certain to manually set the ram voltage to your ram specs as the auto voltage is usually too low and will cause instability issues.

If the problems persist, try throwing in a nic and disabling the nvidia ports to see if the problem is isolated to the onboard network cards.


----------



## USlatin

*Ok guys here it is... click on our picture and you'll get a windows media player with a small version of the HD clip of me switching out the MoBo *








www.earthandfireentertain.com









This one is 160MB but I'll render a compressed (worse) version for those with slower www
I'd just click it and go have dinner or something, just come back to it. 
Might be big but it plays ok on full screen.
.
.
.


----------



## cognoscenti

Nice, its loading for me now.

Dont you have a P5N32 though?


----------



## USlatin

yea, u r the second person that asks me that... why? what board do you think I have otherwise? Do you mean Striker? Cause that's what you get when you peel off the sticker.


----------



## cognoscenti

No because at the beginning of the video is says different.


----------



## menko2

i think i´m having temps too high.

with vcore 1´4250 i reach 57ºC and it´s not even stable @ 3375 (375x9)

i put the thermalright 120 ultra with a 2000rpm fan and arctic silver 5.

the rest of options in voltages are;

memory--- 2´1v
1.2V------ 1´30v
NB core----1´40v
SB---------1´55v
CPU VTT---1´55v

is it normal???


----------



## Robilar

That is way to high for that cooler. What kind of airflow do you have in the case? The thermalright ultra 120 is slightly better than even the tuniq. At that OC you should be in the mid 40's.


----------



## t4ct1c47

E6600 @ 3.6GHz, even on a knackered board, WOOT!

Just need to get this sucker Orthos stable now, time to play with the chipset voltages me thinks.

Respect for the sig Cognoscenti!


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


No because at the beginning of the video is says different.


ROFL

I was in a rush when I looked for the graphic to throw into Photoshop








I'll make sure and change that for the final cut. Thanks!

This is when it is cold in the room, I'd say 24-23 celsius


----------



## menko2

my case is the armor and i have several fans putting the air out.....

i just put again the arctic silver and 2 fans and i get a drop of 5ÂºC, but even with that, at Ã*ddle is 30ÂºC and load at 50ÂºC. just 3Â´150ghz....

not normal right??


----------



## t4ct1c47

menko2, I can't see those temperatures being an issue on your Athlon FX-57, they seem normal for 3Ghz+ on that kind of CPU. You could always try asking over in the AMD section for more confirmation.


----------



## menko2

sorry, it´s not the fx-57 anymore. i just bought an e6600 with the p5n32-e sli. that´s the temps i´m getting in this board.

i will update now my system


----------



## t4ct1c47

In that case you temperatures seem fine for an E6600 at 3.1Ghz. My E6600 doesn't go above 53*C under load when at 3.6Ghz. When you come to overclock higher do try to keep your temperatures below 55*C under load.


----------



## menko2

which voltaje do you use for your 3´4ghz???

or can you post your memories, voltajes,.... so i can have an idea of everything that i´m doing.

thank you!!


----------



## DrewRosenHous

Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*


which voltaje do you use for your 3Â´4ghz???

or can you post your memories, voltajes,.... so i can have an idea of everything that iÂ´m doing.

thank you!!


 my e6400 gets to 65C under load @3.6Ghz 1.55vcore with a tuniq tower both lapped but its still was 14 hours prime stable. Im going to try adding a fan that moves more air, the stock tuniq one is pretty weak. Im guessing its just my chip runs hot, I tried remounting the tuniq several times but it really didnt make a diffrence, neither did lapping/polishing the cpu/tuniq. I guess my only other options would be to get water cooling but I really dont feel like dealing with all that.


----------



## Robilar

And you think that 65C is bad for a 3.6 Ghz overclock on that chip? i think thats pretty impressive actually. It is pretty hot but at that vcore, I'm not surprised. You will have to go to high end water or phase (or the new thermalright ultra 120 extreme) to get a bit better.


----------



## joematrix

I have my e6400 running at 3.0Ghz with the vcore set to auto, because I could not get it to boot with any setting ranging from 1.25 to 1.4 i think. I would like to overclock a litle more, maybe to 3.2 or 3.4GHz, but I need some advice on what to set the vcore to, and also if i need to change the NB and SB voltages. Everest is currently reporting that my vcore is at 1.33v, my NB is at 1.33v, and my SB is at 1.54v. Thanks in advance for the help.


----------



## DrewRosenHous

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
And you think that 65C is bad for a 3.6 Ghz overclock on that chip? i think thats pretty impressive actually. It is pretty hot but at that vcore, I'm not surprised. You will have to go to high end water or phase (or the new thermalright ultra 120 extreme) to get a bit better.

I think im going to try running it at lower vcore at 3.5Ghz and see if that helps. I really doubt the thermalright ultra 120 extreme would make a noticeable diffrence, but if it did I would buy it in a heartbeat. Im quite disappointed with the tuniq actually it seems like it barely dissipates any heat, the base is cool to the touch with the cpu @65C. Im thinking of bringing the tuniq back to work and regrind the base so its flatter and repolish it. Do you really think the thermalright would be able to get me into the 50's?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joematrix* 
I have my e6400 running at 3.0Ghz with the vcore set to auto, because I could not get it to boot with any setting ranging from 1.25 to 1.4 i think. I would like to overclock a litle more, maybe to 3.2 or 3.4GHz, but I need some advice on what to set the vcore to, and also if i need to change the NB and SB voltages. Everest is currently reporting that my vcore is at 1.33v, my NB is at 1.33v, and my SB is at 1.54v. Thanks in advance for the help.

I would try 1.45vcore then and bump the nb up a notch. The nb and sb coolers get hot but I actually think there efficient, without any active cooling on them I was completely stable at 3.6Ghz. I would add 40mm fans on both of them and they should be fine. When I actually changed my sb cooler with the thermaltake spirit it got 60C+ and then I suffered a massive instability.


----------



## alexisd

Probably you can get in the 50s.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


And you think that 65C is bad for a 3.6 Ghz overclock on that chip? i think thats pretty impressive actually. It is pretty hot but at that vcore, I'm not surprised. You will have to go to high end water or phase (or the new thermalright ultra 120 extreme) to get a bit better.


Is the thermalright ultra 120 extreme meant to be good?


----------



## t4ct1c47

The Thermalright Ultra 120 seems to beat the Tuniq Tower 120 by 1*C in most benchmarks. If I were to choose out of the two now I'd just go for whichever one was cheapest. However, the Plus version of the Thermalright appears to offer a larger difference in cooling according to Anandtech.

http://www.anandtech.com/casecooling...spx?i=2943&p=4


----------



## menko2

iÂ´m having a problem with the set-up of the spirits coolers.

i installed them and the northbridge one is ok.

but with the southbridge i canÂ´t put my 8800gtx in the pci-e slot1 and also the x-fi extremegamer doesnÂ´t fit.

is there a solution for the southbridge without having the unmount the motherboard and everything???


----------



## t4ct1c47

Robilar successfully installed an 8800GTX in his system by mounting his SouthBridge Spirit cooler upside down. As for your X-Fi, no it wont fit at all with a spirit installed.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*


iÂ´m having a problem with the set-up of the spirits coolers.

i installed them and the northbridge one is ok.

but with the southbridge i canÂ´t put my 8800gtx in the pci-e slot1 and also the x-fi extremegamer doesnÂ´t fit.

is there a solution for the southbridge without having the unmount the motherboard and everything???


You have to remove the mobo.And 1 of the solution for you'r SB cooler is go back to post # 21 and 22 in this guide.And take a look,i have the same sound card,and i use the jing ting.The pics are in post 21 and post 22.With this cooler you can offset the base and fit the sound card.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
No because at the beginning of the video is says different.

I am uploading one with the correct title...


----------



## menko2

i canÂ´t find the jing ting to solve my problem. i live in spain and nobody sell it here....

does it matter in performance if i put the 8800gtx in the pci-ex slot 3 instead of the slot 1??


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*


iÂ´m having a problem with the set-up of the spirits coolers.

i installed them and the northbridge one is ok.

but with the southbridge i canÂ´t put my 8800gtx in the pci-e slot1 and also the x-fi extremegamer doesnÂ´t fit.

is there a solution for the southbridge without having the unmount the motherboard and everything???



thats why i used another cooler for the southbridge.


----------



## smokeyclocker

Hi overclockers,
I want to get one of these boards very soon, either the p5n32-e or the p5n-e SLI. However, i'm just wondering will a thermalright ultra 120 heatsink fit on the P5n32-e board? Bit worried because of its northbridge and southbridge heatsinks.

I'm planning to overclock a e6420 to 3ghz. Would overclockers here recommend the p5n32-e over the p5n-e sli?


----------



## smokeyclocker

actually what is better at overclocking a e6420 a P5n32-e sli or a p5n32-e sli plus?


----------



## Robilar

the non plus board is slightly better for overclocking. Also, the ultra 120 fits fine (I had one briefly). I would recommend the thermalright ultra 120 extreme that just came out. Its pretty much the best air cooler out and beats the regular ultra by a couple of degrees.


----------



## smokeyclocker

That's cool. In a couple of weeks time i'm going to get a P5N32-E SLI, e6420, geil pc6400 cl5 and hopefully if I have enough a decent graphics card. In the future i will opt for sli once i start saving haha

I want to overclock the e6420 to around 3ghz. Actually i was just wondering does the on-board sound beat an Audigy 2? I might upgrade in the future to an X-FI does the on-board beat that card too?

Also you said you had the thermalright briefly, did you swap it out for a better heatsink? Thermalright's ultra 120 is heavy :S


----------



## menko2

erase


----------



## menko2

erase


----------



## menko2

i canÂ´t find the jing ting here in spain. for sure....

will be ok the HR-05-SLI with the x-fi??? i canÂ´t return the x-fi.

do i have any option for the southbridge so i can install the sound card???

PD. will the stock cooler be fine for the southbridge in the last case?? (using 375mhz of FSB maybe the SB is not that hot)


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*

will be ok the HR-05-SLI with the x-fi??? i can´t return the x-fi.

do i have any option for the southbridge so i can install the sound card???


I haven't bothered upgradeing my SouthBridge cooler anyway and I'm running at 3.6Ghz fine, its the NorthBridge you should be most concerned about in my opinion. I doubt you'd be able to fit a Thermalright HR-05 SLi on the SouthBridge with an X-Fi installed, even if you tried bending it.


----------



## menko2

oh god.

i thought that everybody was changing both NB and SB.

so if it is fine, i will change it to the thermalright (someone can tell me if it will fit with the x-fi??. if it doesnÂ´t work, i will put the stock cooler with arctic silver 5.

i hope that iÂ´m doing ok.

any experienced person that aprove it??


----------



## Robilar

Yes the thermalright will fit without issues. The issues will be if you have two dual gpu cards (like when I had two 8800gtx), then sound card clearance becomes an issue. I have changed both the nb and sb (As they both get quite hot). You should be fine with that config.


----------



## menko2

problem solved. waiting for an hr-05-sli...

i have an e6600 (9x).

i wonder why is better to raise the fbs with the (x9) than lowering to 8x and raise more the FSB. the memory is async.

someone knows it??


----------



## Robilar

its better with the 680i boards (from benching perspective) to have a higher multi lower fsb. With guys with chips like the E6300, they have to go 7x 500 but with your chip, go 9x 390 (will give you just over 3.5 ghz). That is an easy overclock to hit and a big boost. Its also a good place to start unless you want to go really high end fsb.


----------



## menko2

for me, i will be playing games a lot. that´s what i´m looking for: to get the best performance in games.

right now i´m using this;

3360mhz (420x8) (fsb 1680)

420mhz 1:1 synch @ 4-4-4-8-24 1T

my temps are around 57ºC in orthos but i couldn´t get anything better yet. i will have to play with voltages, but i don´t know which are the maximum values (i used the ones in your guide, or just a bit more in NB and SB).

i´m waiting for your post to see if i should go for the higher FSB, or the multiplier at x9.

let me know what will better for games.

thanks man


----------



## Robilar

Read the post above yours. I mentioned that its better to go high multi lower fsb for all things.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*









Read the post above yours. I mentioned that its better to go high multi lower fsb for all things.


Agree.I keep mine x 10 and is the best setting i can have with the x 10.For everything.


----------



## alexisd

To mhill here is the link for my cooler.The jing ting=http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=4638


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


To mill here is the link for my cooler.The jing ting=http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=4638


The names Mhill not Mill godammit!


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*


The names Mhill not Mill godammit!










Sorry mate.


----------



## Mhill2029

Regarding the removal of the NB heatpipe, yes i imagine using aftermarket cooling will be far superior. But looking at the point by the CPU, isn't there important chips (mofsets i believe) that are being cooled here.


----------



## alexisd

Yes,but go back and look in post # 511 in this guide too.This is all you need,and as suggested before depend what cooler you use.If you use the zalman help in bring some air around that area.


----------



## Mhill2029

ooooh....


----------



## alexisd

In my case i have the tunic mean less air in or around the mofsets.But i have those coolers all over the board.And a lot of this ones too=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835108071


----------



## Robilar

Mark, with the swiftech coolers that I posted (that alex linked to above), they work very well in conjunction with the zalman you and i are using for additional airflow.


----------



## menko2

i already lose the warranty of my board and also it´s imposible to get all the things you recomend here.

so i´m going to cut the heatsinck from the motherboard just to put it in the mosfets (i have the spirit and hr-05-sli in NB and SB). no store here that sells mosfets.

is there any way to clean the thermal pad in the heatsick that comes with the motherboard for the mosfets???


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*


i already lose the warranty of my board and also itÂ´s imposible to get all the things you recomend here.

so iÂ´m going to cut the heatsinck from the motherboard just to put it in the mosfets (i have the spirit and hr-05-sli in NB and SB). no store here that sells mosfets.

is there any way to clean the thermal pad in the heatsick that comes with the motherboard for the mosfets???


No really if is the pads.Try a wet rag,with a little bit of alcohol.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*


Regarding the removal of the NB heatpipe, yes i imagine using aftermarket cooling will be far superior. But looking at the point by the CPU, isn't there important chips (mofsets i believe) that are being cooled here.


Hi Mill (JK lol)

I agree and a part of me thinks this may have contributed to my board dying as these were left uncooled with the aftermarket NB and SB solutions I used.


----------



## menko2

i will try then.

i hope it helps!!

arctic silver 5 between the mosfets and the heatsick not right??


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Hi Mill (JK lol)

I agree and a part of me thinks this may have contributed to my board dying as these were left uncooled with the aftermarket NB and SB solutions I used.


Once you remove the heat pipes you need to cool them off.Those heat sinks work perfect.


----------



## USlatin

Look at what I did, it sure ain't pretty but it seems to be working very well. With the lack of a SB read I am using the old finger method, but the differences was tremendous... All I used was cheap fans and the same mosfet copper heatskins Alesisd has on his board. I crammed four of them ontop of the SB and then threw two aluminum ones though they don't make much contact. Then a little 40mm fan on those from the bottom. Also I have a 40mm fan very well placed on the top of my NB together with an 80mm sitting on my Video Card, lol... Double sided foam worked like a charm to keep the 40mm in place. Then I tried using the other copper HSs as well as I could...

It went from not being able to hold yout finger on it for more than 4 seconds to only "nice and warm". I am going to place the fan directly on top of the HSs though and hope to get completely cool or I'll have to do something else. I have two extra 400mm that I want to place on the HS that lie atop the little "boxes" next to the CPU... then that pipe might actually serve a bit of a purpose.... such a rigged rig, lol... but if it works, then it works...

My NB is barely hitting 40 anymore so that's good to go. I just have to figure out how to keep that 80mm fan in place.


----------



## menko2

i have two options:

1-) 389x9= 3375mhz / FSB 1556 / DDR900 asynch @ 4-4-4-8-24

2-) 430x8= 3440mhz/ FSB 1720 / DDR900 asynch @ 4-4-4-8-24

any recomendations about this and voltages??


----------



## USlatin

one but bench it


----------



## cognoscenti

Cool mod!

Alexisd im not sure what you mean cool them off.

I replaced the std heatsinks with aftermarket coolers but there was nothing on the mosfets near the cpu.

This is what I think may have overheated.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Cool mod!

Alexisd im not sure what you mean cool them off.

I replaced the std heatsinks with aftermarket coolers but there was nothing on the mosfets near the cpu.

This is what I think may have overheated.


It sure don't look like your coolers though, lol








It would make sence that you could have had problems with the bare mosfets, after all they got the HS on them for a reason and you had a strong OC like 3.4+ right 24/7?


----------



## cognoscenti

Lol... thats what I suspected.

Shelled out another $300 for a new board which arrived today.


----------



## USlatin

Cool, but $300 means you got something fancier...?


----------



## cognoscenti

No thats what it costs here each time i buy a board here.
p5n32-E costs just over $300 here.

Thats why its easy to have top hardware in the US and Canada.

Try doing it here!


----------



## menko2

so i think i´m getting something is looking ok.

425x8= 3400mhz / FSB 1700 / DDR900 asynch @ 4-4-4-8-24

now i wonder if you guys touch the pci-ex values from 100 or any other changes in the BIOS apart of the "usual things".


----------



## USlatin

Nice OC! you might be able to squeeze a few more still... hope u r covered with cooling.

Most of the guys here, as far as i understand, have them set to 101-101-101... then again Alexi set his to 102 and I copycat'ed. It is supposed to make it a tad more stable, maybe, most likely, not really proven though, but if that's what they r doing the it makes enough sense to me.

Cogno, you aren't doing to shabby though with that set up though, lol... hope u were able to RMA the MoBo though! So, are you getting the 24" Dell? If so you should try and post some of the FPS you get with your games and the your _P5N32-E SLI'ed GTS 640s_


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*


now i wonder if you guys touch the pci-ex values from 100 or any other changes in the BIOS apart of the "usual things".


When you overclock the FSB you also overclock the NBCC so you'll need to start raiseing chipset voltages too at some point. Only in minor increments though and be sure to test by chaneging each one at a time so you can see what has an effect and what doesn't.









I could do with some advise from some of the members here myself. As I've (finally) got SLi working my Thermaltake Armour Jnr has turned into quite an oven, I dare not stick my housemate's puppy in it anymore. Animal cruelty aside, can anyone think of the best method to get some decent air flowing around my cards without haveing to leave my side panel off? Right now I'm thinking of snakeing some tubeing off a tumble dryer, or something similar, and placeing it behind the front 120mm intake fan...


----------



## alexisd

Congrats in the SLI.







.Now benchmark that beast.And post your scores.


----------



## USlatin

I'd love to see pics too, especially if you go for the tube idea! I love home-riggin'


----------



## Robilar

If nvidia will get off its butt and release a non beta of the 158 series of drivers, I'll be going back to a pair of 8800gtx.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


If nvidia will get off its butt and release a non beta of the 158 series of drivers, I'll be going back to a pair of 8800gtx.


158? you mean the chipset drivers Robilar?


----------



## DrewRosenHous

USlatin did you remove the sticker before you stuck those ramsinks on the SB?

I did the same thing like a week ago with aluminum ramsinks before I had to rma my board, they absorbed all the heat coming off the southbridge. When I feel the side of the sb heatsink its cool and the ramsinks are extremely hot. The whole sb heatsink used to be extremely hot but now it feels cool on the side. I think it would work even better if I mounted a fan on it but its actually a good idea.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DrewRosenHous*


USlatin did you remove the sticker before you stuck those ramsinks on the SB?

I did the same thing like a week ago with aluminum ramsinks before I had to rma my board, they absorbed all the heat coming off the southbridge. When I feel the side of the sb heatsink its cool and the ramsinks are extremely hot. The whole sb heatsink used to be extremely hot but now it feels cool on the side. I think it would work even better if I mounted a fan on it but its actually a good idea.


I didn't remove the AI black cover because it is made of metal, I'd rather not mess with the stock cooling but either add to it or completely remove it and store it safely while using stuff like Robilar Cogno and Alexisd and many more are doing... I concur, the ramsinks have big impact... I am probable going to try to squeeze six copper ones and get the fan mounted atop them. That should get it to where it doesn't even send much heat down the pipe... But those aluminum ones are great too because they are much bigger and therefor get exposed to more airflow... I was just thinking about getting a pack of ten little aluminum tiny ones and sticking them on the tube, lol! It is such a Frankenstein already though, lol!!! I really need for Jab-Tech to get those 6" SATA clear cables though, cause the long red ones from the MoBo are making it so I don't even try to make it look clean anymore...


----------



## Robilar

Damn thats a lot of harddrives!

And with respect to your question USlatin regarding drivers, I am referring to the new nvidia graphics drivers, the 158.19 (which are beta and gave me some issues). There is reportedly a whql release (the 158.21) which is due out in the next week or two. At that point, I'll have a go at SLI again with a pair of Asus 8800GTX.


----------



## USlatin

oh, gosh... I don't even want to tell you what the updated drivers did to my non-updated XP-64 and my updated XP-MediaC... I am afraid to update now even though I am running updated XP-32.

I am running the *75.5* that came with the card! 
(I tried the new one and the one right before it with problems)

Then again I am running a completely stable 630-1030 on a 320MB GTS and got 9747 on 3Dmark06 with the rig below, so I see no need to update. Or is there something that should make me try to update them now that I have XP-32 with all the updates?

CAN SOMEONE TELL ME IF RUNNING TWO GTS IN SLI WILL CAUSE MORE HEAT IN THE SB/NB?


----------



## alexisd

Yup,2 card's = more heat.And with reference to the 158.19 drivers,to me work fine even i have, the best benches scores with those drivers.I hope and think that you guys installed property.I think they are no betas.In my case was a big increase in gamming and benches.


----------



## USlatin

I will try to install them again on XP-32 bit now that I gave up and got the only Windows that is at least somewhat finished... lol (that's why they released Vista) lol

I am going to have to fight EVGA and Newegg so they don't stick me with an 320MB that I RMA'ed and then right before the 90-day period is over I'll step-up to a GTX, so as to keep things simple and to be able to SLI later possibly


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Yup,2 card's = more heat.And with reference to the 158.19 drivers,to me work fine even i have, the best benches scores with those drivers.I hope and think that you guys installed property.I think they are no betas.In my case was a big increase in gamming and benches.


I got an increase in benches as well but for some reason, the drivers kept literally uninstalling themselves (happened twice in 12 hours). Not sure how or why as otherwise they ran very fast.

Beta!


----------



## Mhill2029

Really? I saw no improvement....not even by 1point


----------



## esco

Back for some help again. Been having a issue where i cannot increase my vcore past 1.44. No matter what i set it too in bios the it is reported as being 1.44. I also notice whine sound that sometimes originates from my PSU when i run 3dmark06 and certain other games. I have come to the conlusion that when i called in a guy to do some work on the house he damaged my wiring. WHat i want to know is if it is possible that my MB and PSU have not been permanently damaged? Going to purchase a AVR as a temp fix until i can get a electrician in.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *esco*


Back for some help again. Been having a issue where i cannot increase my vcore past 1.44. No matter what i set it too in bios the it is reported as being 1.44. I also notice whine sound that sometimes originates from my PSU when i run 3dmark06 and certain other games. I have come to the conlusion that when i called in a guy to do some work on the house he damaged my wiring. WHat i want to know is if it is possible that my MB and PSU have not been permanently damaged? Going to purchase a AVR as a temp fix until i can get a electrician in.


First, vcore is locked in some of the earlier bios versions, make certain to go to 1002. Second, the whine is likely your 8800gtx as its a known issue (I had a bfg 8800gtx that did the same thing during 3dmark 06).


----------



## esco

Yup i have the 1002 Robligar. I try to update bios as soon as released. I thought it was the video card at first, but when i remove the side panel and run 3dmark06 it really seems to be coming from PSU. Maybe i am wrong and it is just echoing. I forgot to add my pc sometimes hangs during POST it is rare tho. Ran memtest so it is not the memory. Nothing is overheating temps are normal. If it is the PSU i was thinking that would account for the problems i am having with my 8800gtx with repeated errors that the driver do not fix.


----------



## Robilar

All the issues you have listed could be attributed to a damaged power supply. Its just that the pc power units are usually really durable.


----------



## esco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
All the issues you have listed could be attributed to a damaged power supply. Its just that the pc power units are usually really durable.

Yup had heard the same. Can not blame pc power i just want to hang the repair guy. Just wanted to make sure not MB or Vid prob. I just home that by installing a AVR it will stabilize the issue and there will be no permanent harm. I already RMA'd the Vid card just incase and was about to RMA the board also.


----------



## abe_joker

Can you show me a pic where you installed the Swifttech MC-21 Aluminum Mosfet Heatsinks???


----------



## Robilar

Sure


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Cogno, you aren't doing to shabby though with that set up though, lol... hope u were able to RMA the MoBo though! So, are you getting the 24" Dell? If so you should try and post some of the FPS you get with your games and the your _P5N32-E SLI'ed GTS 640s_


I got the board back...posted a whoopee....opened it to find the rejection note.
Im selling the board for about $50. Everything works bar the SATA ports.

I sold my SLI GTS and now have an Gainward GTX.

Once I finish moving house I can work out the setup for the screen, really want that DEll 24" though, looks nice.


----------



## Robilar

Save some money and go for the Samsung 226BW 22". thats my next monitor and its stellar. I've had two (sold to other people) that I got to play with on my own system. Amazing color, no ghosting, very sharp pic quality and good pricing as well.


----------



## Mhill2029

I'm probably going to get a 45nm 1333QDR Quad Core eventually, but would this board limit my overclocking potential of the chip?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Save some money and go for the Samsung 226BW 22". thats my next monitor and its stellar. I've had two (sold to other people) that I got to play with on my own system. Amazing color, no ghosting, very sharp pic quality and good pricing as well.

I love my 226BW,look so nice.
For cognoscenti,another monitor you can look in that size is the gateway 24",nice monitor too.Here is,i like the pip feature i almost hit the gateway no long ago.But i look the 226BW for $260 and i go it.http://www.gateway.com/accessories/p...00R.php?seg=hm
Now new price for the gateway is $579.00.Good price.


----------



## USlatin

I started a small thread about monitor's resolution and performance... al dealing with what is a good deal and what is a bad deal... bang for your biuck type stuff pluss a bit of future proofing concern.

Cogno just posted there that she received her Dell 22 wich is the same LCD as your Samsung guys! lol we all have the same screen! rofl!

I also just got my 24" dell and though I love it for Editing and normal PC use read the thread to see how I feel about it for gaming.

http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/1827...ml#post2056966


----------



## RichyYoung

hello im trying to get a stable 3.4 and am having a bit of trouble ive just managed a stable 3.26 but it took some serious volts to do it

any help and advise getting to the 3.4 greatly appriciated


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RichyYoung*


hello im trying to get a stable 3.4 and am having a bit of trouble ive just managed a stable 3.26 but it took some serious volts to do it

any help and advise getting to the 3.4 greatly appriciated


if that Vcore is after Vdroop (a good reading by that software) then you might want to go back down to a slightly smaller OC where you can get below 1.5V

Aparently the consensus is not to go past 1.5V


----------



## Ihatethedukes

I'm not sure why everyone believes what the software says your voltage is over their BIOS setting. I've PERSONALLY taken a DMM and tested a DFI SLI-DR and found that the closest reading to the ACTUAL value is the value you set in BIOS FOLLOWED not terribly closely by the reading you get in BIOS and then the software stuff is all over the map. The closest being the ITEsmartguardian that DFI packaged with the board.


----------



## RichyYoung

hmm shocking i wonder whats holding my rig back my mate gets well easy overclocks on his commando board and he paid the same price

i should be content with what ive got it gets a good 11k plus in 3dmark 06 i just wanted to hit the 3.4 since so many seem to be able to do it

its not about the readings im just positng the picture so you can see ruffly what ive done for me it was a simple fact of increasing the voltages one by one untill it ran othos without an error and this was the result why they needed to be so high is beyond me


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I started a small thread about monitor's resolution and performance... al dealing with what is a good deal and what is a bad deal... bang for your biuck type stuff pluss a bit of future proofing concern.

Cogno just posted there that she received her Dell 22 wich is the same LCD as your Samsung guys! lol we all have the same screen! rofl!


Hey i'm in this as well. As my 22inch gateway uses the same lcd panel as the other 2. Oh and the pip rocks as well as all the inputs.


----------



## cognoscenti

you should get easily 11,500 in 06 with a GTX and an E6600 at anything over 3.2Ghz


----------



## Silviastud

I'm clearing 11200 with my GTS so that should be very achievable with a GTX.


----------



## RichyYoung

well unfortunatly im only getting 11k stock and have to oc the gtx to get 11500 hence why im here lol ive gotta be getting some settings wrong or something


----------



## Silviastud

I'm pretty far overclocked as far as the GTS was concerned though.


----------



## cognoscenti

keep using Rivatuner to play with the card settings and find the sweet spot, more is not always better.
Did you use the same setting s for your processor as mentioned at the start of this guide?
I did and thats where the my 3.48ghz came from and thats a 24-7 overclock.
Higher than that and they are usually only suitable for a quick benchmark or are running on something other than air.

Its high enough so you dont spend more time in the bios than you do actually using your PC and to keep it running all you need is some whispering case fans....


----------



## RichyYoung

cheers hun yeah i used the settings at the start of the guide its odd on lower voltage settings everthing ran and looked fine 3dmark would bench sup com would play but orthos just wouldnt run untill i upped a few settings and it ran last night without stopping for 7 hrs

you recommend rivatuner over ntune?


----------



## Silviastud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RichyYoung*


cheers hun yeah i used the settings at the start of the guide its odd on lower voltage settings everthing ran and looked fine 3dmark would bench sup com would play but orthos just wouldnt run untill i upped a few settings and it ran last night without stopping for 7 hrs

you recommend rivatuner over ntune?


Ntune is junk, just my opinion. I used riva tuner for my GTS.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RichyYoung*


cheers hun yeah i used the settings at the start of the guide its odd on lower voltage settings everthing ran and looked fine 3dmark would bench sup com would play but orthos just wouldnt run untill i upped a few settings and it ran last night without stopping for 7 hrs

you recommend rivatuner over ntune?


Ntune is rubbish....IMO


----------



## RichyYoung

note to self .... ntune = not good

so no obvisouly wrong settings can i go any high on mem settings or other settings and maybe take the v core down a bit

the mems runngin quite loose at 5 5 5 15


----------



## Silviastud

Yeah my revision 2 6400 runs good at 2.2v 4-4-4-12 all the way up to 900MHz. I had to relax to 5-5-5-15 for 960MHz though.

As long as your are running at 1:1 you wont have any problems running at 4-4-4-12.

And as for the vcore you just have to knock it down a notch and stress test and see if you are stable and find the lowest stable per your OC.


----------



## RichyYoung

when im uping the fsb i set it to linked and sync mode as it looks about the most acurate am i right ? as opposed to settng 1:1 or 5:4


----------



## Silviastud

Yup linked and synced is good to go.


----------



## RichyYoung

right just had to rule that out as a problem, theres no better way of doing it then ? unlinked maybe ? or do you end up setting the same settings just manually

sounds like im doin everything alright im just not getting stable results


----------



## Silviastud

You can try it unlinked and then just raise the cpu fsb and set the mem to 800 just to make sure it's not holding your oc back. Since you aren't going over 400mhz unless you go past 3.6ghz or you drop the multiplier this wont help you much.


----------



## RichyYoung

the mems at 700 somefink which isnt that high 800 will be a higher setting is that going to be more stable then ?


----------



## Silviastud

I doubt it will be more stable. It doesn't usually hurt to underclock it. You can just lock it to 800 if you like. Myself, and a few others, stand behind linked and synced being the best way to go.


----------



## Robilar

The commando will get a higher fsb. The difference is that you have a full 16x16x SLI motherboard wheras the commando is not suited to dual card of nvidia or ati. Regarding your limits, I assume you went through my guide and upped all the other voltages in addition to vcore? Cpu vtt is the most importantant and should be maxed out at 1.55

What multi/fsb are you running at?


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

Great guide Robilar, I'm in the process of another build (waiting on parts to come in) a P5N32-E SLI and another E6600 and wanted to know how much a difference in temp do you get from stock north/southbridge setups to using 2 Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II on them? 
And will this board take PC8500 mem? 
Thanks


----------



## RichyYoung

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


The commando will get a higher fsb. The difference is that you have a full 16x16x SLI motherboard wheras the commando is not suited to dual card of nvidia or ati. Regarding your limits, I assume you went through my guide and upped all the other voltages in addition to vcore? Cpu vtt is the most importantant and should be maxed out at 1.55

What multi/fsb are you running at?












i posted this a few posts back it shows what i have set everything too


----------



## RichyYoung

lol i ran a3d bench with 5-5-5-15 timmings then changed to 4-4-4-13 timmings and got an increase of only 30 marks lol shocking


----------



## USlatin

You'll get a bigger increase from going 1T from 2T if you haven't done that...


----------



## RichyYoung

whats the setting for 1t instead of 2t ? i mean whats its name in the bios ?

CPC ? 1 or 2 clocks ?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RichyYoung* 









i posted this a few posts back it shows what i have set everything too

Ok so 9x 362. Bear in mind your stepping may effect your ceiling at that multi. drop the multi to 8x and up the fsb. I've run an E6600 at 7x500 FSB without issue.


----------



## USlatin

look closer, you cant miss it... you can only set it to 1 or 2


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheAlienwareGamer* 
Great guide Robilar, I'm in the process of another build (waiting on parts to come in) a P5N32-E SLI and another E6600 and wanted to know how much a difference in temp do you get from stock north/southbridge setups to using 2 Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II on them?
And will this board take PC8500 mem?
Thanks

Temps improved by 15C or better with the thermaltakes. If you look at my build you will notice that I'm using SLI Ready (designed for the 680i) PC2-8500 RAM, so the answer is a definite yes. In fact, this board will take up to 1333 mhz ram.


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

Thanks Robilar, just wanted to make sure the ram would work before I order it. For anyone looking for a ram upgrade Frys.com has the OCZ 8500 2gb on sale for $169 shipped w/ $30 mail-in rebate


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TheAlienwareGamer* 
Thanks Robilar, just wanted to make sure the ram would work before I order it. For anyone looking for a ram upgrade Frys.com has the OCZ 8500 2gb on sale for $169 shipped w/ $30 mail-in rebate

That memory look good.In my case i use my firestix @ 4 4 4 12 2T @ 980mhz.Oh @ 2.2 volt's.It give me good results in benches and super pi,gamming too.


----------



## Robilar

What IC's do the firestix use alex?


----------



## alexisd

Hi[Robilar}My firestix are micron D9GMH.


----------



## USlatin

really? same as my HZs you guys wanna see that pic again don't you? ROFL


----------



## zelavon

This question is for anyone using the Thermaltake Spirit ll on the NB and SB.
Should I use the round rubber spacer that came with the Spirit when I install them? My current build was based on this thread, so many thanks to Robilar!


----------



## nik6600

*hi can anyone help me to overclock my cpu.... my motherboard is asus p5n32 and my cpu is intel core2duo e6600 @2,4Ghz (with a zalman CNPS9500LED cooler) ... ram is OCZ 5400 4-4-4-8 667Mhz.. i want to overclock it to about 3Ghz but i dont know where to start....please help..*


----------



## nik6600

*hi can anyone help me to overclock my cpu.... my motherboard is asus p5n32 and my cpu is intel core2duo e6600 @2,4Ghz (with a zalman CNPS9500LED cooler) ... ram is OCZ 5400 4-4-4-8 667Mhz.. i want to overclock it to about 3Ghz but i dont know where to start....please help..*


----------



## USlatin

first delete the text on one of your double posts, lol
then read this thread from the beginning and get to at least the 20th page... preferably more like 40th...
Start by focusing on Robilar's main posts in the very beginning... and make sure you turn off all that he suggests to disable before you start...

then let us know specific things you can't figure out... there will be many knowledgeable guys here that will respond, and I will try to help if I can too,


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zelavon* 
This question is for anyone using the Thermaltake Spirit ll on the NB and SB.
Should I use the round rubber spacer that came with the Spirit when I install them? My current build was based on this thread, so many thanks to Robilar!

I'm trying to remember what spacer you are referring to. Please describe it in more detail.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nik6600* 
*hi can anyone help me to overclock my cpu.... my motherboard is asus p5n32 and my cpu is intel core2duo e6600 @2,4Ghz (with a zalman CNPS9500LED cooler) ... ram is OCZ 5400 4-4-4-8 667Mhz.. i want to overclock it to about 3Ghz but i dont know where to start....please help..*

Set your ram to unlinked, change the qdr (FSB) to 335 (1340, remember its 4x in the bios) x9 which will give you 3015 Mhz. Make certain to follow all the initial steps in my guide (Especially setting ram voltages manually and cpu vtt to 1.55.). set initial vcore to 1.35 as well. Check your ram model on OCZ's website to find out what the recommended voltage for the memory is.

That ram wont have much overhead but If you run it at 4-4-4-8 and *1T* at stock speeds it will be slightly faster than pushing a few hundred mhz more at 2T and looser timings.


----------



## joematrix

I just thought I would update everyone on my computer's status. Right now I am running @ 3.2GHz with no problems in the past week or so. I had been running my RAM at 4-4-4-8 2T for quite a while because I had tried 1T and it didn't work, but I just tried it again and so far it seems to be ok at 4-4-4-8 1T. I have thought about overclocking my graphics card, and I have used rivatuner to run it at 600/900 but only for benchmarking, because I am a little worried about the heat. Anything else I should try doing with my system?

Edit: I just ran orthos and it errored after about 1 minute. Maybe I need to up the RAM voltage? I have it at 2.1v which is what is recommended by manufacturer.


----------



## zelavon

They are the white circle sticky pads that came with the Spirits. I am at work now, I will give you a better description of these pads when I get home. I don't think I need them if you don't remember using them.
Thanks.


----------



## cognoscenti

you are meant to use them, yes.

Sits around the chip.


----------



## zelavon

Here is a pic of the spacer:Attachment 46495


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

Well received my P5N32-E SLI board today from ZZF. Have mixed feelings about it. Good thing is it's a Striker Extreme with a p5n32-e label over it but as I took a look at it the northbridge isn't fastened down completely (missing one of the retention brackets) which doesn't bother me much since I will be replacing it with a TT Extreme Spirit II, just the fact they let it leave factory that way. Also came with my E6600 not sure how it will OC compared to my other since its a week 46


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zelavon*


Here is a pic of the spacer:Attachment 46495


Ah you mean the foam ring? Yes, that is needed to prevent the chipset being crushed on both nb and sb. You threw me off with "rubber spacer".


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheAlienwareGamer*


Well received my P5N32-E SLI board today from ZZF. Have mixed feelings about it. Good thing is it's a Striker Extreme with a p5n32-e label over it but as I took a look at it the northbridge isn't fastened down completely (missing one of the retention brackets) which doesn't bother me much since I will be replacing it with a TT Extreme Spirit II, just the fact they let it leave factory that way. Also came with my E6600 not sure how it will OC compared to my other since its a week 46


Are you sure you got a new one and not a return?


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Are you sure you got a new one and not a return?


Yes it was new sealed in the box, just couldn't believe it left factory like that tho the top part of the retention clip was broke off. Oh well I emailed ZZF to see if they just get a clip for it instead of going through the process of shipping it back,etc and I will be taking it off to use a TT Extreme Spirit II on it anyways


----------



## jasvin

Does anyone know whether the CPU cooling Zalman 9700 will mount on this mobo without removing the two heat pipes as Robilar & othrs did ? That cooler is 
huge and it looks as if the pipe heatsink to the right might prevent it from sitting 
properly on the cpu.


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jasvin*


Does anyone know whether the CPU cooling Zalman 9700 will mount on this mobo without removing the two heat pipes as Robilar & othrs did ? That cooler is 
huge and it looks as if the pipe heatsink to the right might prevent it from sitting 
properly on the cpu.


Yes, there's plenty of room dude


----------



## zelavon

yeah, sorry I don't know why I called it a rubber spacer either, but thanks!
Also how much AS5 should I apply on the NB and SB? I'm guessing very little?


----------



## cognoscenti

just enough to cover.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


I just thought I would update everyone on my computer's status. Right now I am running @ 3.2GHz with no problems in the past week or so. I had been running my RAM at 4-4-4-8 2T for quite a while because I had tried 1T and it didn't work, but I just tried it again and so far it seems to be ok at 4-4-4-8 1T. I have thought about overclocking my graphics card, and I have used rivatuner to run it at 600/900 but only for benchmarking, because I am a little worried about the heat. Anything else I should try doing with my system?

Edit: I just ran orthos and it errored after about 1 minute. Maybe I need to up the RAM voltage? I have it at 2.1v which is what is recommended by manufacturer.


Well, I guess 1T isn't very stable. I had some issues, including a blue screen after changing to 1T, so I'm back at 2T now. Also, my onboard sound card disappeared from the audio devices in the control panel, but after restarting my computer it works again. I think I going to have to get a cheap aftermarket sound card. Any suggestions?


----------



## nik6600

ok thanks guys.







.i'll try what you suggested and let you know how i got on..


----------



## nik6600

for the vcore voltage what do you guys recommend???


----------



## Robilar

start at 1.35 and work your way up from there as needed.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


Well, I guess 1T isn't very stable. I had some issues, including a blue screen after changing to 1T, so I'm back at 2T now. Also, my onboard sound card disappeared from the audio devices in the control panel, but after restarting my computer it works again. I think I going to have to get a cheap aftermarket sound card. Any suggestions?


1T can be fussy depending on the ram. The corsair you are using has promos IC's which aren't rated for 1T (neither are the Micron based memory, but most of them seem to handle it fine).


----------



## nik6600

shall i change the cpu multiplier or leave it at 9???


----------



## nik6600

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


start at 1.35 and work your way up from there as needed.


you think 1.35 is good for overclocking my cpu to 3Ghz??


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nik6600* 
shall i change the cpu multiplier or leave it at 9???

Leave @ x9,give you better performance.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nik6600* 
you think 1.35 is good for overclocking my cpu to 3Ghz??

I think you fine with 1.35,depend the chip maybe need a little bit more.Watch the temps.


----------



## Robilar

I agree. 9x335 @1.35Vcore should be fine. As alex mentioned, if you get instability in orhtos, try upping it by .01 at a time and check. I wouldn't exceed 1.42 with that cooling (but watch your temps)


----------



## Robilar

btw, I got 14x stable on my system (At stock clocks for now) for 3.724 Ghz. I have vcore at 1.46 and temps are high 50's under load (ambient 21C). I won't risk going higher until I get the thermalright ultra extreme from the vendor later this week.


----------



## alexisd

Keep us posted[Robilar]I think that cooler goin to hit hard the market,i think is sold out.
Edit=You have any luck with the problem you have with the new drivers 158.19?


----------



## Robilar

Nope, damn things kept uninstalling on me. I went back to 97.94 and all is fine again. Mind you they are beta drivers, so I assume it may be some sort of conflict in my system.

Bigfoot Computers here in Canada has stock coming in towards the end of this week. I pre-ordered and pre-paid for it so I'm guaranteed a unit. I'm anticipating 3.9 on air which should get me where I'd like to be with benches.


----------



## esco

Think i have PSU issue sorted out but i seem to get a annoying BSOD every now and then. Has anyone ever run into the error

"IRQL_not _greater_or_equal"

I also got this other wierd error saying the board is not ASPI or APCI certified.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Nope, damn things kept uninstalling on me. I went back to 97.94 and all is fine again. Mind you they are beta drivers, so I assume it may be some sort of conflict in my system.

Bigfoot Computers here in Canada has stock coming in towards the end of this week. I pre-ordered and pre-paid for it so I'm guaranteed a unit. I'm anticipating 3.9 on air which should get me where I'd like to be with benches.


Yeah go for the 3.9 no less robilar.You have a great chip.And for the benchies you goin to chrush me.


----------



## dannydacookie

Hey there all, new to all of this overclocking stuff this being my first new PC built in quite a few years.

Does anyone have any ideas around RAM that is best for board, I read that the QVL listing from Asus is the way to go but there is quite a limited range of RAM listed. I am wanting to get 6400 speed RAM and in the future run 4gb. From the QVL listing on Asus it seems that some RAM will not allow 4gb to be installed or will not run in dual channel.

Does anyone have any suggestions on the best RAM to use for this board???


----------



## nik6600

hi guys... today i turned on my pc and for some reason after loading windows the desktop/screen split into two parts...the right side of the screen was on the left and the left side was on the right..i rebooted and still the same so went out and when i came back i tried again and it was all ok... its not the first time it done it.. any ideas why it does this sometimes??(i havent done any overclocking on my cpu yet..only on the memory (from 4-4-4-12 i put it 4-4-4-8))


----------



## nik6600

if you dont get what i'm on about i'll send you guys a pic if it does it again..


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *esco* 
Think i have PSU issue sorted out but i seem to get a annoying BSOD every now and then. Has anyone ever run into the error

"IRQL_not _greater_or_equal"

I also got this other wierd error saying the board is not ASPI or APCI certified.

That could be driver issues. I've had maybe two or three bsods since December but that could just be windows. I've never seen that specific error but the descriptor leads me to believe that two devices are trying to use the same resources (IRQ). Are you using onboard sound?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dannydacookie* 
Hey there all, new to all of this overclocking stuff this being my first new PC built in quite a few years.

Does anyone have any ideas around RAM that is best for board, I read that the QVL listing from Asus is the way to go but there is quite a limited range of RAM listed. I am wanting to get 6400 speed RAM and in the future run 4gb. From the QVL listing on Asus it seems that some RAM will not allow 4gb to be installed or will not run in dual channel.

Does anyone have any suggestions on the best RAM to use for this board???

You might want to have a look at the OCZ ram I have. Its recently dropped in price and has Micron D9 IC's. It overclocks really well and I have had no compatibility issues.

One thing that seems to make a difference in this board is to get SLI Ready ram. Although it is a bit of a gimmic (you can auto overclock your ram from the bios with a single setting change), one thing for certain is that all RAM that receives the SLI Ready approval has been tested with the 680i chipset boards. Whether or not its on the QVL isn't as sigifigant.

http://www.canadacomputers.com/index...79&cid=RAM.475

Any ram can run up to 4 gb together and if you buy dual channel kits (2x1 gb for example). then it will run in dual channel.


----------



## esco

yes using onboard sound. have a x-fi xtrememusic but have heard of so many people having issues with nvidia+clabs on vista that i am holding off putting it in new rig.


----------



## Robilar

the 1002 bios resolves that and those issues were primarily with SLI setups.


----------



## esco

nice!! Installing now and that should clear up the last issues i have with this board. ty again


----------



## dannydacookie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


One thing that seems to make a difference in this board is to get SLI Ready ram. Although it is a bit of a gimmic (you can auto overclock your ram from the bios with a single setting change), one thing for certain is that all RAM that receives the SLI Ready approval has been tested with the 680i chipset boards. Whether or not its on the QVL isn't as sigifigant.


Cheers for that I will take a look at the SLI approved RAM then and see if I can find something that looks good on there. I have been getting confused with the QVL list from Asus as it mark the different kinds of RAM as to whether they can be used in dual channel or in 4gb lots.

Once I get my rig built i will be back here to get some advice on overclocking the bad boy.

What I am planning is;

Asus P5N32-E SLI Motherboard
Intel 6600 Conroe
WD 320gb HD
Inno3D 640mb GTS OC Vid Card
in a Gigabyte Poisedon Case

Will post the specs once I have built.


----------



## rea1m

Hey guys, my first post!! Great guide Robilard I'd still be stuck in the bios if it wasn't for you. I do have a quick question for you though:

You mentioned that your Silverstone 750 was giving off ripples and spikes resulting in instability, well I have a Silverstone Zeus 650 and using PC probe I get the following messages, would you consider those ripples as well? Or is it some fluke in the software? 4.08 seems enough to kill some of the components:

================================================== =
ASUS PC Probe II

Alert Log Report

Number = 55
================================================== =

[05/01/2007 at 07:15 pm] CPU VTT Voltage Abnormal, 1.46 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:15 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:16 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:17 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:17 pm] MEMORY Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:17 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage become normal, 1.07 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:17 pm] MEMORY Voltage become normal, 2.14 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:18 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 1.46 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:18 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:21 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:22 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:22 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 3.33 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:22 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:22 pm] SB CORE Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:22 pm] SB CORE Voltage become normal, 1.52 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:25 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:25 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage become normal, 1.09 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:26 pm] SB CORE Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:26 pm] SB CORE Voltage become normal, 1.52 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:27 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:27 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:28 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:28 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:29 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:29 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage become normal, 1.07 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:31 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:32 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:34 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:34 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:35 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 1.46 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:35 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage become normal, 1.07 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:36 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:36 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:37 pm] MEMORY Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:37 pm] MEMORY Voltage become normal, 2.14 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:38 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:38 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage become normal, 1.09 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:39 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:39 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage become normal, 1.09 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:40 pm] SB CORE Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:40 pm] SB CORE Voltage become normal, 1.52 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:41 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:41 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:41 pm] NB CORE Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:42 pm] NB CORE Voltage become normal, 1.23 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:42 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:42 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:44 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:44 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:46 pm] SB CORE Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:47 pm] SB CORE Voltage become normal, 1.52 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:47 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:47 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:47 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:47 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V

Sorry if it's a little long. Thanks!!


----------



## zelavon

Hey Robilar, just wondering if you had to use 1 short screw when you installed the Thermaltake Spirit ll so that the 8800 would sit flush? I read through the thread and couldnt find any mention about this minor problem. It gave me a little headache when I was installing the Spirits last night. Just thought it would be a good idea to mention it. I almost cut a portion of my card then realized the obvious solution. Let me know if this was a prob for you. Thanks


----------



## cognoscenti

On the SB right?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


You might want to have a look at the OCZ ram I have. Its recently dropped in price and has Micron D9 IC's. It overclocks really well and I have had no compatibility issues.

One thing that seems to make a difference in this board is to get SLI Ready ram. Although it is a bit of a gimmic (you can auto overclock your ram from the bios with a single setting change), one thing for certain is that all RAM that receives the SLI Ready approval has been tested with the 680i chipset boards. Whether or not its on the QVL isn't as sigifigant.

http://www.canadacomputers.com/index...79&cid=RAM.475

Any ram can run up to 4 gb together and if you buy dual channel kits (2x1 gb for example). then it will run in dual channel.



I just bought this RAM now, http://www.ebuyer.com/customer/searc...OCZ2N1066SR2GK
hopefully better than my current in my sig.

What is the setting you mentioned?


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


I just bought this RAM now, http://www.ebuyer.com/customer/searc...OCZ2N1066SR2GK
hopefully better than my current in my sig.


Good choice, just ordered mine yesterday.Should have all my parts by end of the week and start my build


----------



## zelavon

Yes SB is correct, no prob with NB.


----------



## werd

Hey guys, my parts should be arriving soon(with this board) I will be getting a e6600, 8800gts, and 4 gigs of G.SKILL 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400). My cooler is the ZALMAN 9700. Couple of questions, first off I've never really overclocked anything, and I don't want to do anything crazy and cause stuff to overheat. What do you all suggest I start at with my MOBO, and ram timings etc. Should I just try for 4-4-4-12 for now? or push for more? also stuff like FSB etc, I would have no idea what to set them at. Also, in terms of updating BIOS i've never done that before, out of the box will it come with the newest BIOS or will I have to do that, if so do I just put it on a floppy and do it that way? Thanks in advance!


----------



## zelavon

Werd, the easiest way to flash this board is save the newest (1002) bios file on a usb memory stick, then just use ez flash in the bios options to update it. Worked for me perfectly.


----------



## RichyYoung

im tempted by the spirt 2 cooler ? for the northbridge, as my motherboard temps are around 50 + would you recommend that to bring down the temps ? also where can i get it from ? (in the uk)


----------



## Mhill2029

They can be had here....

http://www.komplett.co.uk/k/ki.asp?sku=323817


----------



## RichyYoung

spanktastic ive ordered two im assuming i can fit the second on the south bridge if not ive got an interesting ornament coming to go on the living room coffee table


----------



## zelavon

Hey Richyyoung,
You will need 1 short screw to attach the Spirit to the SB. The 8800 will not sit flush unless you use a shorter screw. The screws that come with the Spirits are fine except that they are too long for the one area near the video card. Just a heads up, I ran into this problem!


----------



## RichyYoung

righty-o is the shorter screw supplyed or do i just take a longer one down a screw shop and ask for something shorter ?

will i see a decrease in temps as my motherboard / system temp is allways around 54 and cpus around 30

see i personally think the temps on the motherboard are whats stopping me overclocking past 3.2 if i leave it on a hot day it will blue screen without the fans turned up full


----------



## SA3L

Hi i have a question, should the settings that you have to disable in bios be disabled after the clocking too?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SA3L* 
Hi i have a question, should the settings that you have to disable in bios be disabled after the clocking too?

You want to disable all,those options before OC.Once you finish with your settings hit F10 save,and exit.Hope it help.


----------



## zelavon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RichyYoung* 
righty-o is the shorter screw supplyed or do i just take a longer one down a screw shop and ask for something shorter ?

It is not supplied, just find another one, not hard to find.


----------



## charger265

Has anyone managed to get there memory bandwidth over 8000MB/s on Sandra? & if so on what settings & Ram?


----------



## SA3L

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


You want to disable all,those options before OC.Once you finish with your settings hit F10 save,and exit.Hope it help.


Yes, but are the setting supposed to be disabled for all time after that?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rea1m*


Hey guys, my first post!! Great guide Robilard I'd still be stuck in the bios if it wasn't for you. I do have a quick question for you though:

You mentioned that your Silverstone 750 was giving off ripples and spikes resulting in instability, well I have a Silverstone Zeus 650 and using PC probe I get the following messages, would you consider those ripples as well? Or is it some fluke in the software? 4.08 seems enough to kill some of the components:

================================================== =
ASUS PC Probe II

Alert Log Report

Number = 55
================================================== =

[05/01/2007 at 07:15 pm] CPU VTT Voltage Abnormal, 1.46 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:15 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:16 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:17 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:17 pm] MEMORY Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:17 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage become normal, 1.07 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:17 pm] MEMORY Voltage become normal, 2.14 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:18 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 1.46 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:18 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:21 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:22 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:22 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 3.33 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:22 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:22 pm] SB CORE Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:22 pm] SB CORE Voltage become normal, 1.52 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:25 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:25 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage become normal, 1.09 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:26 pm] SB CORE Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:26 pm] SB CORE Voltage become normal, 1.52 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:27 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:27 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:28 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:28 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:29 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:29 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage become normal, 1.07 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:31 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:32 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:34 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:34 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:35 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 1.46 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:35 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage become normal, 1.07 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:36 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:36 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:37 pm] MEMORY Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:37 pm] MEMORY Voltage become normal, 2.14 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:38 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:38 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage become normal, 1.09 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:39 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:39 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage become normal, 1.09 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:40 pm] SB CORE Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:40 pm] SB CORE Voltage become normal, 1.52 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:41 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:41 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:41 pm] NB CORE Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:42 pm] NB CORE Voltage become normal, 1.23 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:42 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:42 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:44 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:44 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:46 pm] SB CORE Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:47 pm] SB CORE Voltage become normal, 1.52 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:47 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:47 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.25 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:47 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V
[05/01/2007 at 07:47 pm] DDR2 TERM Voltage Abnormal, 4.08 V

Sorry if it's a little long. Thanks!!



thats similar to the errors I got right before the power supply died.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zelavon*


Hey Robilar, just wondering if you had to use 1 short screw when you installed the Thermaltake Spirit ll so that the 8800 would sit flush? I read through the thread and couldnt find any mention about this minor problem. It gave me a little headache when I was installing the Spirits last night. Just thought it would be a good idea to mention it. I almost cut a portion of my card then realized the obvious solution. Let me know if this was a prob for you. Thanks


I actually cut the screw with a hacksaw to make it fit properly. Cut screw before card!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


I just bought this RAM now, http://www.ebuyer.com/customer/searc...OCZ2N1066SR2GK
hopefully better than my current in my sig.

What is the setting you mentioned?


Thats my ram. Good stuff (Micron D9's). If you go into the bios and go to sli ready, change the setting to 0% and save , reboot (it won't show a setting change until you reboot), you will see in startup sli ready enabled, and the ram will be running at 1066 automatically (And safely). The next step is to go in and manually tighten your timings (at that OC, you won't get too far though).


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zelavon*


It is not supplied, just find another one, not hard to find.


I just cut one of the screws down to proper length. Took about 10 seconds.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SA3L*


Yes, but are the setting supposed to be disabled for all time after that?


Yes, they are disabled because they interfere with overclocking (And some of them are detrimental to regular use as well).


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Thats my ram. Good stuff (Micron D9's). If you go into the bios and go to sli ready, change the setting to 0% and save , reboot (it won't show a setting change until you reboot), you will see in startup sli ready enabled, and the ram will be running at 1066 automatically (And safely). The next step is to go in and manually tighten your timings (at that OC, you won't get too far though).


I'm confused by this. I went in and set SLI ready to 0%, rebooted, and then when I went back into the BIOS I was not able to up my FSB because it was grayed out and set back to stock. Can you please let me know what this is all about?


----------



## Robilar

Are you certain that the corsair ram you are using has EPP profile support? Not all of the Corsair modules do, (usually only the C4 modules)

http://www.corsairmemory.com/corsair/xms2.html

* - With EPP - Enhanced Performance Profiles, SLI Certified

The Twin2X2048-6400 for example does not support SLI Ready.


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:


Originally Posted by *charger265* 
Has anyone managed to get there memory bandwidth over 8000MB/s on Sandra? & if so on what settings & Ram?


yep!!

4-4-4-6 1T 975mhz fsb = 1440 (9x)

SiSoft Sandra ~8100

See my sys for ram. (2.2v)


----------



## Robilar

Thats some serious ram you have there. I considered it when I bought mine.


----------



## slehcim

hey, ive been looking at your system, Robilar, and im wondering if the radiators found on the stock heatsinks connected via heatpipes werent actually cooling down anything directly beneath them.

basically are you sacrificing anything at all by going with the spirits?

also are they really worth it if overclocking?

and while i have you, is this pretty much the best 680i board currently out?
i can get the striker extreme for just a little more than it, but ive heard some bad things. also there is the DFI just about to come out. and there is the eVGA but not crazy interested in it.

which would be your choice. ill be coupling it with an e6600 and patriot 8500 memory.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Are you certain that the corsair ram you are using has EPP profile support? Not all of the Corsair modules do, (usually only the C4 modules)

http://www.corsairmemory.com/corsair/xms2.html

* - With EPP - Enhanced Performance Profiles, SLI Certified

The Twin2X2048-6400 for example does not support SLI Ready.

Yes, I am sure it does have the EPP profile.
Here is a link to it:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145034


----------



## cognoscenti

New SLI ram installed same as yours Robillar, now how do I tweak it up some more?


----------



## SA3L

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Thats my ram. Good stuff (Micron D9's). If you go into the bios and go to sli ready, change the setting to 0% and save , reboot (it won't show a setting change until you reboot), you will see in startup sli ready enabled, and the ram will be running at 1066 automatically (And safely). The next step is to go in and manually tighten your timings (at that OC, you won't get too far though).

Can you run Sli-ready 0% and clock at the same time?
Btw my computer is running Orthos now, @3ghz and vcore=1.325. The temp is 64 at temp1 and 60 in core0 and core1, is it ok, or to hot?


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

64C is a lil high,I'd recommend staying in the low 50C under load. Anything over 55C for too long and your asking for trouble.
What type of cooling you using for the cpu?


----------



## jmn2519

Robliar, and everyone else i have a question.

Take a look at my profile. When the system boots up it sets the ram to 1.85 V. That voltage is 100% stable under orthos.

However, when I go into BIOS and bump my ballistix to their rated voltage of 2.2V my system BSOD's after a few minutes in windows.









Any thoughts!?!??!


----------



## bigglesdsp

Wow, this thread is extremely helpful. Just put together the rig in my sig, everything came together great. Love this board.

Noobish question though, with the G.Skillz I have which slots do I put the sticks into? I've asked a couple of my friends and they seem to conflict with each other. Do i pair them by the color slots (1 & 3) or place them side by side (1 & 2).

Also my case front panel came with three contectors, IEEE, USB and this audio one for my mic/headphone jack. I placed the IEEE and USB in the right slots on the mobo but I am little confused as to where the mic/headphone jack would go. Any little would be great.

Almost time for some OCing

Thanks


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Thats some serious ram you have there. I considered it when I bought mine.


Hey Rob,

I bought it a while back at $429.00, look at the price now..

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...ab=11&NoMapp=0

If you look at the product review on the Tiger web page, you'll see a review by me which is old, and severely doctored by their staff!!!

At $214.00, I may pick up another 2g kit either to make 4g, or to have as a spare..

Lifetime warranty, but at ~2.2v, they last for 2-4 months B4 they start glitching. I run memtest86 at least once a week just to see if I can see anything coming. They usually die a slow death.

All and all, it's ok ram though.


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bigglesdsp*


Noobish question though, with the G.Skillz I have which slots do I put the sticks into? I've asked a couple of my friends and they seem to conflict with each other. Do i pair them by the color slots (1 & 3) or place them side by side (1 & 2).
Thanks


Put them in the blue slots (1 & 3)


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bigglesdsp*


Wow, this thread is extremely helpful. Just put together the rig in my sig, everything came together great. Love this board.

Noobish question though, with the G.Skillz I have which slots do I put the sticks into? I've asked a couple of my friends and they seem to conflict with each other. Do i pair them by the color slots (1 & 3) or place them side by side (1 & 2).

Also my case front panel came with three contectors, IEEE, USB and this audio one for my mic/headphone jack. I placed the IEEE and USB in the right slots on the mobo but I am little confused as to where the mic/headphone jack would go. Any little would be great.

Almost time for some OCing

Thanks


Ram goes by colored slots

You can only used mic/headphones if you are using the onboard sound (then look in your user manual for wiring guide). Some of the high end creative solutions also allow it.


----------



## slehcim

Have any idea as to weather the thermalright ultra 120 extreme will fit with the extreme spirit II mounted?


----------



## Robilar

I'll let you know when I pick up my ultra extreme tomorrow. I don't think there will be an issue as the zalman 9700 is quite wide as well and fits without issue. The ultra extreme is 132 mm wide. The zalman is 124mm wide.

these pics might help


----------



## zelavon

This seems off topic and I'm sorry for asking for help in this thread but I thought someone in here may have come across the same issue. I have tried running 3dmark05 with cpu oc to 3.2, motherboard bios 1002 and 0903 and numerous 8800 drivers, including the latest. For some reason after the Canyon Flight test the CPU Tests would normally start but instead Canyon Flight starts again at only 3-5 FPS and then my system crashes with the blue screen. What is causing this? Any help Please! It should'nt be 8800 drivers because 3dmark05 ran fine on my amd system with the same drivers. I'm thinking mobo or CPU crappin out. Again please help!!


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zelavon*


This seems off topic and I'm sorry for asking for help in this thread but I thought someone in here may have come across the same issue. I have tried running 3dmark05 with cpu oc to 3.2, motherboard bios 1002 and 0903 and numerous 8800 drivers, including the latest. For some reason after the Canyon Flight test the CPU Tests would normally start but instead Canyon Flight starts again at only 3-5 FPS and then my system crashes with the blue screen. What is causing this? Any help Please! It should'nt be 8800 drivers because 3dmark05 ran fine on my amd system with the same drivers. I'm thinking mobo or CPU crappin out. Again please help!!


Weird you should mention this... I ran 3dmark06 tonight, with no problems. I then ran 3dmark03, and my system restarted after one of the tests, I don't remember which one it was though. My system has been quite stable lately, so I'm not sure why it would restart during a test...


----------



## USlatin

nice new pics Robilar


----------



## cognoscenti

Thats the cpu test part of the 3dmark i think.

If youre running overclocked settings and the cpu test part pushes your machine too hard it will crash.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zelavon*


It should'nt be 8800 drivers because 3dmark05 ran fine on my amd system with the same drivers. I'm thinking mobo or CPU crappin out. Again please help!!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


My system has been quite stable lately, so I'm not sure why it would restart during a test...


I would let Orthos run for 6 hours or so to ensure system stability. Otherwise you may need to start raseing CPU vCore and possibly some of your chipset voltages aswell. Just because you don't notice any problems when running desktop applications or certain games doesn't mean that you're CPU is stable. That's why its always best to give your system a proper thrashing with Orthos (I'm not just talking half an hour here) to ensure stability.


----------



## zelavon

I have run Orthos for 8 hours with no errors. Someone mentioned it could be a memory problem, I don't know I'll try to figure it out. Thanks for the replies.


----------



## zelavon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
Thats the cpu test part of the 3dmark i think.

If youre running overclocked settings and the cpu test part pushes your machine too hard it will crash.

The CPU test does not even begin, it is the Canyon Flight test again only ALOT slower, then the crash.
Passed memtes86 and I ran 3dmark05 again with CPU at stock and same problem, what's going on? Also system is stable on 8 hours of Orthos.


----------



## nuclearjock

First, make sure your copy of '05 is good... try d'loading a fresh copy and re-install.

I had the same problem when doing my last round for top 30 graphics thread. '05 was crashing at the canyon/cpu test. I threw a little more Vcore and NB voltage (1.50) at it and it finally went to completion..

I don't know if was upping NB voltage or Vcore that did the trick, I may fiddle a little this weekend..

good luck..


----------



## zelavon

Get this, I unistalled display drivers from control panel, registry and used Driver Cleaner. I installed drivers 97.94 and now everything works fine. I am able to run the CPU tests now. Guess it was a driver problem..hmm
Thanks and Rep+ to everyone for their help!


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zelavon*


Get this, I unistalled display drivers from control panel, registry and used Driver Cleaner. I installed drivers 97.94 and now everything works fine. I am able to run the CPU tests now. Guess it was a driver problem..hmm
Thanks and Rep+ to everyone for their help!










were U with 97.94 B4 or is this new??

I'm also sticking with 97.94.. 158's and 165.01 have AF issues in flight simulator.


----------



## Robilar

I had problems with the 158.19 betas that I couldn't resolve. I will try the new whql 158.22 and see how they run though.

97.94 has given me no issues whatsoever.


----------



## jmn2519

Robilar,

I was looking at your sig and our builds are similar. I still just cannot for the life of me figure out why my system won't run with the memory voltages at 2.2V but runs at 1.8V just fine (orthos stable).

Could it be a mobo problem where it can't deliver clean power at 2.2 to the memory but 1.8 is ok? Maybe the PSU?

thanks for the info


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jmn2519* 
Robilar,

I was looking at your sig and our builds are similar. I still just cannot for the life of me figure out why my system won't run with the memory voltages at 2.2V but runs at 1.8V just fine (orthos stable).

Could it be a mobo problem where it can't deliver clean power at 2.2 to the memory but 1.8 is ok? Maybe the PSU?

thanks for the info


First, our ram is different. Do you know which IC's the crucial tracers use? Last time I checked I believe they are Infineon. as such they have different voltage requirements than the OCZ and Corsair I have used (both with Micron IC's).

If you can give me the exact model of your ram (the crucial part #), I'll look it up for you and perhaps be able to give a solution.

Also are you running your ram linked or unlinked? What multi x FSB are you running to get 2.7 Ghz? I assume you are using the 1002 bios?

BTW, the corsair power supply in your sig is 620W, not 640


----------



## jmn2519

Thanks for the catch on the PSU









Here is the memory part # BL2KIT12864AL804
and link:
http://www.crucial.com/store/mpartsp...8071A8A5CA7304

It would surprise me if crucial was using infineon chips. Aren't the a part of Micron?

To answer your other questions. I am running bios 1002, the RAM is unlinked (running at stock 800) and the multi on my CPU is the standard 9x.

I can't seem to push the FSB much above 1200 in the bios or it becomes unstable. Initially i thought it was the CPU but even if i lower the multiplier to 8 it is still unstable. NB voltage is at 1.45.

j


----------



## Robilar

cpu vtt is at 1.55?


----------



## Robilar

Also crucial outsources it's IC components just like Corsair and OCZ do. The Micron D9's are bin sorted and represent the higher end ram, the low and mid range kits are typically infineon or promos. Corsair went down the road awhile back on its mid range stuff.


----------



## alexisd

What about timmings.Maybe if he loose the timmings a little bit.


----------



## RichyYoung

when i fit the spirt2 coolers to my north and south bridge and have to remove the standard coolers you know they have a heat pipe thing that runs to heatsinks near the cpu socket is there anything being cooled under them or are they just heat sinks attched to pipes attached to the north and southbridge?


----------



## jmn2519

Robilar,

here are the voltages I am currently running. Alex, I haven't tried loosening timings. I figured since it was unlinked it probably wouldn't help anyway.

Here's the info
VCore 1.35
Memory 2.0 - anything higher BSODs
1.2V HT 1.3
NB 1.4
SB 1.6
CPU VTT 1.55 - as you asked earlier

FSB is currently at 1200 (aka 300)
Mem is running stock at 800

Thanks for the help!!!!!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RichyYoung*


when i fit the spirt2 coolers to my north and south bridge and have to remove the standard coolers you know they have a heat pipe thing that runs to heatsinks near the cpu socket is there anything being cooled under them or are they just heat sinks attched to pipes attached to the north and southbridge?


Those are the VRM's. They need some kind of passive cooling as well (plus airflow from cpu cooler if possible)

I use the Swiftech MCP21 Mosfet Coolers.

The Tuniq you are using, being a tower config blows no air downwards into the VRM area (like my Zalman does). You will need to consider adding this type of cooling for stability at high OC's.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jmn2519*


Robilar,

here are the voltages I am currently running. Alex, I haven't tried loosening timings. I figured since it was unlinked it probably wouldn't help anyway.

Here's the info
VCore 1.35
Memory 2.0 - anything higher BSODs
1.2V HT 1.3
NB 1.4
SB 1.6
CPU VTT 1.55 - as you asked earlier

FSB is currently at 1200 (aka 300)
Mem is running stock at 800

Thanks for the help!!!!!



Whether or not its unlinked, return all ram settings to auto for now (And keep it unlinked). Drop the multi a notch and see if that allows you to up stable fsb. On these lower chips, you almost have to drop the multi and up fsb to get a decent overclock. the higher end conroes (the e6600/e6700/x6800) can take high multi/fsb combos better than the allendale cores.

With a default 200 FSB and 9x multi, you should in theory be able to go to 7x 500 FSB (if the chips stepping can handle it, although you will need high vcore for this). I was able to get an E6300 to run stable at 7x500 (at 1.5 Vcore though).


----------



## TsunoTakishi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Those are the VRM's. They need some kind of passive cooling as well (plus airflow from cpu cooler if possible)

I use the Swiftech MCP21 Mosfet Coolers.

The Tuniq you are using, being a tower config blows no air downwards into the VRM area (like my Zalman does). You will need to consider adding this type of cooling for stability at high OC's.


I do not know if anyone has mentioned it, but I did notice at one point that EK Has designed some 1/2" ID waterblocks for the ASUS Chipsets and MOSFETS. If you were running a watercooling system already, do you think they would be worth it? Do the MOSFETs heat up enough to consider a waterblock for them rather than some passive cooler? Or would the smaller profile be worth it?


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

Well finally got my parts, same similar setup as Robilar cept with a week 46G E6600 , all voltages are what you said to start out at and I'm at 3.6 with 1.35 vcore. Bios shows temp at 27C, yet to test Orthos stability tho, may have to up the vcore. 
Bios that came with board is 0902 and wanted to see if I should update to the 1002 bios?

update: was kinda slow at posting,even tho it posted/booted at 3.6 so upped the vcore to 1.4


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheAlienwareGamer*


Well finally got my parts, same similar setup as Robilar cept with a week 46G E6600 , all voltages are what you said to start out at and I'm at 3.6 with 1.35 vcore. Bios shows temp at 27C, yet to test Orthos stability tho, may have to up the vcore. 
Bios that came with board is 0902 and wanted to see if I should update to the 1002 bios?

update: was kinda slow at posting,even tho it posted/booted at 3.6 so upped the vcore to 1.4


Nice oc if is stable.I got my oc @ 3.5 with 1.5 volt's.But don't forget this is a 6700 ES and is volt hungry.


----------



## USlatin

Alien, nice OC... u guys thing 3.6 is doable with Q6600?

aparently there is no need to go 1002 but it doesn't hurt... right?
I am still at 0902

Robilar? You r running 1002... any benefits?


----------



## smokeyclocker

I was wondering if someone could help me out here. I just bought a P5N32-E SLi board with geil pc6400 2gb and a e6420. I have got it to 3.04Ghz with 4-4-4-12 with a 1:1 ratio. However, now on CPU-Z my bus speed is 380









I have put the vcore volt on auto, hardware monitor on the bios is saying 1.4. Any chance anybody could help me to get some more juice from the processor?

Btw: 3dMark06 - 9429 with 8800gts


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheAlienwareGamer*


Well finally got my parts, same similar setup as Robilar cept with a week 46G E6600 , all voltages are what you said to start out at and I'm at 3.6 with 1.35 vcore. Bios shows temp at 27C, yet to test Orthos stability tho, may have to up the vcore. 
Bios that came with board is 0902 and wanted to see if I should update to the 1002 bios?

update: was kinda slow at posting,even tho it posted/booted at 3.6 so upped the vcore to 1.4


You should be monitoring the temps with core temp combined with orthos. 1002 provides the same OC with slightly less vcore required.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Alien, nice OC... u guys thing 3.6 is doable with Q6600?

aparently there is no need to go 1002 but it doesn't hurt... right?
I am still at 0902

Robilar? You r running 1002... any benefits?


QX6600 will not hit 3.6 on anything less than top water or phase. The E6600 can hit 3.6 as long as its a decent stepping and you have strong air cooling.

The 1002 bios requires slightly less vcore for similar overclocks.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker*


I was wondering if someone could help me out here. I just bought a P5N32-E SLi board with geil pc6400 2gb and a e6420. I have got it to 3.04Ghz with 4-4-4-12 with a 1:1 ratio. However, now on CPU-Z my bus speed is 380









I have put the vcore volt on auto, hardware monitor on the bios is saying 1.4. Any chance anybody could help me to get some more juice from the processor?

Btw: 3dMark06 - 9429 with 8800gts


You are running 380 FSB x8 Multi?


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


QX6600 will not hit 3.6 on anything less than top water or phase. The E6600 can hit 3.6 as long as its a decent stepping and you have strong air cooling.

The 1002 bios requires slightly less vcore for similar overclocks.


Wow, thanks Robilar!
Ok, so I will flash asap...

What about the new stepping just anounced for the Q6600, it is supposed to be rated for 11C higher temps and will require 10W less...

how high can you get the Q6600 to with a Tuniq?


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


You are running 380 FSB x8 Multi?


yea on x8 multi


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Wow, thanks Robilar!
Ok, so I will flash asap...

What about the new stepping just anounced for the Q6600, it is supposed to be rated for 11C higher temps and will require 10W less...

how high can you get the Q6600 to with a Tuniq?


The new lower thermal envelope quads will be slightly better but I haven't seen any tests yet. With a Tuniq, probably the best you can hope for is 3.2 or slightly higher.


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

Thanks all, will update the bios and see how that goes. Also wanted to see if anyone has this problem or is it just me, seems like this board is a slow poster. Before i upped the vcore to 1.4 it would take over 20 secs to post, now takes about 5/6secs


----------



## slehcim

are there any penalties to running unlinked on this board?

i have patriot 8500 memory rated for 1066 and 5-5-5-9 timings. however it defaulted to 800 and 5-5-5-16 timings. why does it do that anyways?

basically i just want to test everything at rated 'stock' perameters for a little bit before i delve into any serious overclocking in which case ill thoroughly read through this thread.


----------



## RichyYoung

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Those are the VRM's. They need some kind of passive cooling as well (plus airflow from cpu cooler if possible)

I use the Swiftech MCP21 Mosfet Coolers.

The Tuniq you are using, being a tower config blows no air downwards into the VRM area (like my Zalman does). You will need to consider adding this type of cooling for stability at high OC's.


crap i would have ordered them too in my order if i had thought about it

where can i get some decent coolers to stick on them mosfet thingys ?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RichyYoung*


crap i would have ordered them too in my order if i had thought about it

where can i get some decent coolers to stick on them mosfet thingys ?


Check with Mhill, he's in your neck of the woods.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slehcim*


are there any penalties to running unlinked on this board?

i have patriot 8500 memory rated for 1066 and 5-5-5-9 timings. however it defaulted to 800 and 5-5-5-16 timings. why does it do that anyways?

basically i just want to test everything at rated 'stock' perameters for a little bit before i delve into any serious overclocking in which case ill thoroughly read through this thread.


unlinked is usually better and has no negative effects.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheAlienwareGamer*


Thanks all, will update the bios and see how that goes. Also wanted to see if anyone has this problem or is it just me, seems like this board is a slow poster. Before i upped the vcore to 1.4 it would take over 20 secs to post, now takes about 5/6secs


thats cause your cpu didn't have enough vcore to run properly. I doubt it would have passed orthos without the extra vcore either.


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


thats cause your cpu didn't have enough vcore to run properly. I doubt it would have passed orthos without the extra vcore either.


Yea my last E6600 needed alot more vcore to be Orthos stable at 3.6. Is this board known to be a slow poster?


----------



## Robilar

No but you explained yourself why it was posting slow; not enough voltage to the cpu. One way I sped up boot was to get a sata dvd burner. I then disabled all the ide ports in the bios. It sped things up considerably.


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

Yea I have a 18x sata dvd burner going in this so that should help speedup things. Also were you able to OC this OCZ ram or is it best for me to leave at 1066? Thanks


----------



## alexisd

Good to heard,that a lot of members start to like the board.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheAlienwareGamer*


Yea I have a 18x sata dvd burner going in this so that should help speedup things. Also were you able to OC this OCZ ram or is it best for me to leave at 1066? Thanks


1066 is overclocked









It will actually run faster at 800 mhz with 4-4-4-8 @ 1T timings in all benches (I've tried it both ways).


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


The new lower thermal envelope quads will be slightly better but I haven't seen any tests yet. With a Tuniq, probably the best you can hope for is 3.2 or slightly higher.


Really?!? Dang!
I was hoping for much closer to an E6600 clock.
I am dis-satisfied with the performance of my E6300 when cutting HD, so I want this upgrade to clear 1080p cutting with a bit of breathing room! I Could on other NLEs right now, but not Vegas which I love so much... What to do?
Phase cooler for an Antec 900? What's the cheapest?


----------



## isprog

Hi Guys
Virginal Overclocker here, although been involved with PC's for way to long (before DOS there was CPM - that's very sad)

Anyway, looking at going with the following setup:
Asus P5N32-E SLI
Intel E6600
Cosair TWIN2X2048-8500C5D RAM
Coolermaster CM832 case
Enermax Inifiniti 720 SLI PS

GPU:
N8800GTS pair (SLI'd)

My concern is cooling. After a lot of reading, seems like I want to use Noctua products. For the CPU cooler, want to use the NH-U12F (http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=p...ts_id=6&lng=en) and on the Northbridge, want to be able to use the Noctua NC-U6 (http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=p...ts_id=7&lng=en). Without having an actual board yet and wasting money, any idea if they will fit without conflict. ? As for the Southbridge, looking at using the Thermalright HR-05-SLI. I am trying to avoid fans.

Looking at getting a sound card now after reading Robilar's comments, but would like to try and fit Creative X-FI Xtremegamer ... Can I fit one when using the Thermalright HR-05-SLI on the Southbridge ? Most of what I have read seems like I might be trying to push shti uphill with a SLI setup ....

Thanks

Oh by the way, found this from Noctua, their soon to be released Noctua NH-C12 CPU Heatsink (http://www.nindeals.com.au/showthread.php?t=2871) ... Looks nice.


----------



## keywerdaohell

Robilar,

The memory you have in your specs is the OCZ sli-ready 8500 memory. The website lists them as 2.3 volts, http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...n_dual_channel

Do you still run them at 2.1? Thanks.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *keywerdaohell*


Robilar,

The memory you have in your specs is the OCZ sli-ready 8500 memory. The website lists them as 2.3 volts, http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...n_dual_channel

Do you still run them at 2.1? Thanks.


2.3 is the top voltage OCZ will warranty them at. I've been running 2.1 so far and not needed more voltage with high ram clocks and stock clocks with tight timings.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Really?!? Dang!
I was hoping for much closer to an E6600 clock.
I am dis-satisfied with the performance of my E6300 when cutting HD, so I want this upgrade to clear 1080p cutting with a bit of breathing room! I Could on other NLEs right now, but not Vegas which I love so much... What to do?
Phase cooler for an Antec 900? What's the cheapest?


OCZ has a phase unit that is supposed to be due out this year and in the $400 USD price range. Otherwise you'd be looking at the prometia


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *isprog*


Hi Guys
Virginal Overclocker here, although been involved with PC's for way to long (before DOS there was CPM - that's very sad)

Anyway, looking at going with the following setup:
Asus P5N32-E SLI
Intel E6600
Cosair TWIN2X2048-8500C5D RAM
Coolermaster CM832 case 
Enermax Inifiniti 720 SLI PS

GPU:
N8800GTS pair (SLI'd)

My concern is cooling. After a lot of reading, seems like I want to use Noctua products. For the CPU cooler, want to use the NH-U12F (http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=p...ts_id=6&lng=en) and on the Northbridge, want to be able to use the Noctua NC-U6 (http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=p...ts_id=7&lng=en). Without having an actual board yet and wasting money, any idea if they will fit without conflict. ? As for the Southbridge, looking at using the Thermalright HR-05-SLI. I am trying to avoid fans.

Looking at getting a sound card now after reading Robilar's comments, but would like to try and fit Creative X-FI Xtremegamer ... Can I fit one when using the Thermalright HR-05-SLI on the Southbridge ? Most of what I have read seems like I might be trying to push shti uphill with a SLI setup ....

Thanks

Oh by the way, found this from Noctua, their soon to be released Noctua NH-C12 CPU Heatsink (http://www.nindeals.com.au/showthread.php?t=2871) ... Looks nice.


Everything "should" fit. The reason I went bluegears for sound as mentioned is that its comparable to the x-fi but its a much shorter card. I can't say for certain if you will be able to fit the edge of the noctua sb cooler under the clearance of the creative card. The bluegears is short enough to make it irrelevant.

Here are some pics when I had two 8800gtx and an older sb eax (150mm long card) audigy 2. Everything fit but very snug.


----------



## theGryphon

Hi everyone! This is my first post here. I'm such a n00b in overclocking but I'm pretty sure Robilar's instructions and experience of all will teach me a lot. Thank you all!

I'm planning to build a new system and I'd like to ask you a few questions. First off, I'll definitely go with Intel EXXXX CPU, Asus P5N32-E SLI (possibly Plus) board, Raptor 74, 2X1GB RAM, 8800 XXX graphics, Antec 18X case and 700+W power supply. I wish to buy E6700 and 8800GTX and I'm waiting for more price cuts









Here I go:
1) What is the difference between P5N32-E SLI and the Plus model in terms of overclocking and general performance? There is like a 30-bucks gap (plus being cheaper!) and it's not a trivial decision.
2) Will PC2-8500 RAMs post with P5N32-E boards without manual settings? What's your recommendation for RAM? Are PC2-8500 worth the price gap compared to PC2-6400?
3) Will SATA optical drives post immediately? I'd like to go SATA but I don't want to risk not being able to install the OS.
4) Would you say there is a significant performance difference between Zalman 9700 and 9500AT?
5) For the PS, I'm thinking about Thermaltake Toughpower 750W. I wonder what you have on it.

Many thanks in advance! I really appreciate your time...


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
OCZ has a phase unit that is supposed to be due out this year and in the $400 USD price range. Otherwise you'd be looking at the prometia

$400? Done! I'm in! Well.. so long as:
a. I feel I can do it (should be fine)
b. It doesn't blow as much hot air into the room as people say it does
c. It it does, then only if I can somehow get that air to flow out the window...
d. It will be modifiable to adapt it to future sockets


----------



## blutak_sux

Hey i recently purchased a p5n32 sli, due to recommendations from Robilar. Ive got a e6400, 2 x 1gb sticks of ballistix tracer, pc2 6400 800Mhz

Ive had 3.2 Ghz out of it, and it will boot up into vista, but when i run orthos it just produces an error, 0.5 expected less than 0.4. Bios Version 0903
I have been using
HT Voltage as 1.3
NB Volatage 1.45
SB 1.55
VTT 1.55
and Vcore at 1.35

Memory voltage at 2.1 with timings of 5 5 5 18 23 1T

Anyone got any ideas?
Cheers!
Andy


----------



## USlatin

I am not sure what the error is, not sure I understood what it meand... but your NB voltage may be a bit on the low end


----------



## nik6600

shall i try 1T timmings or not?? my memory is 667mhz


----------



## slehcim

with the p5n32-e the voltage is set up at 1.35 as the default when set to auto for the vcore. intels web site says the range for the proc is .875 or something to 1.355 i think. so im wondering if thats a little on the high range or is this a standard stock voltage for the e6600 with this board? im running it at 1.25 no probs so far at 2.790... just starting slowly.

Robilar:
have you gotten the thermalright ultra extreme yet? if so how does it fit with the TT Spirit's.

Also, i was wondering if, with the stock heatpipes removed, how necessary is it to put the additional cooling you mentioned on post 82


----------



## baldrick

can anyone explain the CPU VTT Voltage please, what I should set it as to begin OCing? and what it actually does? thanks.


----------



## Hailscott

Quote:



Originally Posted by *baldrick*


can anyone explain the CPU VTT Voltage please, what I should set it as to begin OCing? and what it actually does? thanks.



That is the max volts to the CPU on boot up. I set mine to 1.35


----------



## baldrick

Why would it be more on bootup? I dont get this setting, can I leave it as auto, or should I just set it to whatever my Vcore is, or what?


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *baldrick*


Why would it be more on bootup? I dont get this setting, can I leave it as auto, or should I just set it to whatever my Vcore is, or what?


If you read the beginning of this thread, Robilar clearly explains that it doesn't really do anything, and that for best results you should have this at its maximum settings, which should be 1.55v.


----------



## baldrick

i did read it, he actually says he doesnt know what it does, thats why I asked


----------



## SA3L

"1T RAM Timings: What makes the 680i boards different from the intel chipsets is that it is very easy to get 1T timings to run on ram. Iâ€™ve tested as have others. RAM running at 80Mhz with tight timings (4-4-4-8 for example) and at 1T is faster in bandwidth tests than ram running at 5-5-5-15, 1067 MHz and 2T."
How do you set the RAM running at 80Mhz?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *baldrick* 
i did read it, he actually says he doesnt know what it does, thats why I asked

What I "do" know about it is that if you leave it on auto, it is virtually impossible to get high stable overclocks. The higher you set it, the better overclocks you can attain, regardless of chip, stepping or vcore used.


----------



## baldrick

Ok thanks I'll just set it to max hope it works out OK, my last board a mosfet blew and I got no idea why, just bad luck?


----------



## mhw100

Robilar - how are you doing with the Ultra Extreme fit in the 830, any heat tests etc?

BTW, I could not get the quad above 320 no matter what multi I used. It just won't post which is similar to the EVGA unit before they fixed the problem.

What I did do is increase the multiplier to 11 x 320 (3.52Ghz) and it is running without any stress at ~31-33C in Everest/pc probe and the cores are ~46-52C in Core Temp.

As expected it lasted less than 2 minutes in Prime95 before it shot up to 70C. Very frightening. I'll leave it here just to see what the temp does during the stress of live trading tomorrow. If it's stable I might leave it here but I know I need a better cooler which is why I'm very interested in your results although I realize the heat characteristics are different on your chip.

Do you think there might be some advantage to trying a lower fsb and higher multi as you advised to try in the other thread? The reason I ask again is that I've got this far too expensive memory here that I would lose the fsb:ram ratio on. Right now it's 3:5 which my understanding is a good ratio...but I don't know. What should I try next?

Thank you.


----------



## USlatin

Aparently, so I am being told right now, the Q6600 can't be cooled with that OCZ phase unit and it will die... something about not being able to handle the loads... not giving up though, investigating


----------



## isprog

Thanks Robilar.
Appreciated









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Everything "should" fit. The reason I went bluegears for sound as mentioned is that its comparable to the x-fi but its a much shorter card. I can't say for certain if you will be able to fit the edge of the noctua sb cooler under the clearance of the creative card. The bluegears is short enough to make it irrelevant.

Here are some pics when I had two 8800gtx and an older sb eax (150mm long card) audigy 2. Everything fit but very snug.


----------



## theGryphon

Anything, anyone? Thanks!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *theGryphon* 
Hi everyone! This is my first post here. I'm such a n00b in overclocking but I'm pretty sure Robilar's instructions and experience of all will teach me a lot. Thank you all!

I'm planning to build a new system and I'd like to ask you a few questions. First off, I'll definitely go with Intel EXXXX CPU, Asus P5N32-E SLI (possibly Plus) board, Raptor 74, 2X1GB RAM, 8800 XXX graphics, Antec 18X case and 700+W power supply. I wish to buy E6700 and 8800GTX and I'm waiting for more price cuts









Here I go:
1) What is the difference between P5N32-E SLI and the Plus model in terms of overclocking and general performance? There is like a 30-bucks gap (plus being cheaper!) and it's not a trivial decision.
2) Will PC2-8500 RAMs post with P5N32-E boards without manual settings? What's your recommendation for RAM? Are PC2-8500 worth the price gap compared to PC2-6400?
3) Will SATA optical drives post immediately? I'd like to go SATA but I don't want to risk not being able to install the OS.
4) Would you say there is a significant performance difference between Zalman 9700 and 9500AT?
5) For the PS, I'm thinking about Thermaltake Toughpower 750W. I wonder what you have on it.

Many thanks in advance! I really appreciate your time...


----------



## slehcim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theGryphon*


Anything, anyone? Thanks!










Well, on the P5N32-E (non plus) model. i have 2 sticks of patriot 8500 ram rated to 5-5-5-9 at 2.3v but when first starting up it runs it at ddr 800 and 5-5-5-16 even though it seems to run fine set manually at its rated speeds and 2.2v so i believe that it will initially set your memory to a ddr 800.

im no expert. just my expirience. also, i would assume it would be the same with the plus model.


----------



## smokeyclocker

I need some help overclocking my system. I have a p5n32-e sli board with geil pc6400 ram and a e6420. I have tried to first overclock it to 3.0ghz using the fsb at 1500 however i cannot get my ram ratio to be 1:1. My ram is running at 4-4-4-12 1T. My ram ratio is like 10:11 right now









Does FSB/RAM ratio affect the system's overclock? My current overclock of 3ghz is unstable.

Help?!


----------



## USlatin

Robilar, what do you think about a CRYO-Z on a Q6600?

What's this thing about the Q6600 putting out too much heat and "breaking" the Cryo? Would that really happen?


----------



## bravogt

Hi guys... Need some help sorting out the cooling for the board. I'm currently using Tuniq 120 for the CPU, and have purchased 2 Thermalright HR-05 for both NB and SB. I have not installed them yet as i cant decide on what to get for cooling the mosfets. I'm tyring to work out which is the most cost effective solution. Below are the choices available.

1) Swiftech MC21 as suggested by Robilar. Cost around $50 Aus for 2 sets.

2) Thermalright HR-09S, on speacial, $60 Aus for 2 units.

Based on the price, i'm leaning towards the Thermalright, more 'bling' for $10 more but from what i have read so far, it does not provide full coverage on the mosfets as compared to the Swiftech. Will that cause any performance loss?

There is also another cheaper alternative but i'm not too sure it will fit, VIZO Sleet CU Chip Cooler, 8 pieces of copper heatsinks, $25 Aus.

http://vizo.com.tw/index.php?main_pa...ts_id=31&tab=1

However, the dimenssions are 22mm (L) X 10mm (W) X 9mm (H), 4mm wider than the Swiftech. Any idea if it will fit? Thanks....


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Robilar, what do you think about a CRYO-Z on a Q6600?

What's this thing about the Q6600 putting out too much heat and "breaking" the Cryo? Would that really happen?


I doubt it. How exactly can heat output damage a copper head fed by a tubed phase unit? The worst that could happen is that you wouldn't get really stellar temps (like -50C for example) but phase is always better than air or water. I've installed a prometia system on an old prescott processor that runs much hotter than the current lower envelope C2D processors without a hiccup. Temp output from the chip is largely irrelevant. The only thing you have to worry about with chips is cold bugs or getting the dialectric grease in the wrong spots.


----------



## slehcim

any word yet on the installation of the thermalright ultra 120 extreme?

side note- anyone know of any place in canada to get the mosfet heatsinks Robilar noted here or something similar that would work?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theGryphon*


Hi everyone! This is my first post here. I'm such a n00b in overclocking but I'm pretty sure Robilar's instructions and experience of all will teach me a lot. Thank you all!

I'm planning to build a new system and I'd like to ask you a few questions. First off, I'll definitely go with Intel EXXXX CPU, Asus P5N32-E SLI (possibly Plus) board, Raptor 74, 2X1GB RAM, 8800 XXX graphics, Antec 18X case and 700+W power supply. I wish to buy E6700 and 8800GTX and I'm waiting for more price cuts









Here I go:
1) What is the difference between P5N32-E SLI and the Plus model in terms of overclocking and general performance? There is like a 30-bucks gap (plus being cheaper!) and it's not a trivial decision.
2) Will PC2-8500 RAMs post with P5N32-E boards without manual settings? What's your recommendation for RAM? Are PC2-8500 worth the price gap compared to PC2-6400?
3) Will SATA optical drives post immediately? I'd like to go SATA but I don't want to risk not being able to install the OS.
4) Would you say there is a significant performance difference between Zalman 9700 and 9500AT?
5) For the PS, I'm thinking about Thermaltake Toughpower 750W. I wonder what you have on it.

Many thanks in advance! I really appreciate your time...


1. The plus is a decent board but its not a true 680i (uses the nf570 for the sb). For the $30 difference go with the 680i. The difference in overclocking is minimal (the plus can still get close to 500 FSB but the non plus will do better)

2. Is PC-8500 ram worth it? Only if you intend to run your ram at faster than 800 Mhz speeds. 8500 ram will run up to 1066 stable without crazy voltage. If the settings are auto, the ram will only run at 800 mhz at the default maker timings. Unless you are using sli ready ram and enable the feature, then it will auto run at 1066 at maker approved timings. I'd go for it. Gives you more overhead.

3. Sata optical drives work fine (and if you have no ide drives, you can disable the ports and get boot up faster)

4. The 9700 is about 5C better than the 9500 (I have both







)

5. Stay away from thermaltake. For 750W go enermax, silverstone or pc power and cooling (or 700w the seasonic)


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mhw100*


Robilar - how are you doing with the Ultra Extreme fit in the 830, any heat tests etc?

BTW, I could not get the quad above 320 no matter what multi I used. It just won't post which is similar to the EVGA unit before they fixed the problem.

What I did do is increase the multiplier to 11 x 320 (3.52Ghz) and it is running without any stress at ~31-33C in Everest/pc probe and the cores are ~46-52C in Core Temp.

As expected it lasted less than 2 minutes in Prime95 before it shot up to 70C. Very frightening. I'll leave it here just to see what the temp does during the stress of live trading tomorrow. If it's stable I might leave it here but I know I need a better cooler which is why I'm very interested in your results although I realize the heat characteristics are different on your chip.

Do you think there might be some advantage to trying a lower fsb and higher multi as you advised to try in the other thread? The reason I ask again is that I've got this far too expensive memory here that I would lose the fsb:ram ratio on. Right now it's 3:5 which my understanding is a good ratio...but I don't know. What should I try next?

Thank you.



i picked up my ultra extreme on friday just haven't had time to install it (took my daughter to canada wonderland this weekend to get or family season passes and opened up my cottage. I need a vacation!)

It will fit but very bloody tight (approx 2mm space between them) but no performance issues as a result.

Everest and PC Probe do not measure the cpu cores accurately. Only use core temp.

You are right about the memory ratios, leave them as is. 70C under load is pretty bloody high. Going to the ultra will probably shave about 6-7C off that which makes in manageable. Then again, nothing else you run will push the cpu as high as prime95 or orthos so its likely that you temps will be in the high 50's under normal load with the ultra. That temp is certainly within the intel thermal envelope guidelines (and a nice OC to boot!)

I expect to install the extreme tomorrow (I'm flying into chicago on business today). I'll run it overnight and post back some temps.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slehcim*


any word yet on the installation of the thermalright ultra 120 extreme?

side note- anyone know of any place in canada to get the mosfet heatsinks Robilar noted here or something similar that would work?


I got them at bigfoot computers

http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merc...tegory_Code=40

I'll be installing the extreme tuesday evening.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bravogt*


Hi guys... Need some help sorting out the cooling for the board. I'm currently using Tuniq 120 for the CPU, and have purchased 2 Thermalright HR-05 for both NB and SB. I have not installed them yet as i cant decide on what to get for cooling the mosfets. I'm tyring to work out which is the most cost effective solution. Below are the choices available.

1) Swiftech MC21 as suggested by Robilar. Cost around $50 Aus for 2 sets.

2) Thermalright HR-09S, on speacial, $60 Aus for 2 units.

Based on the price, i'm leaning towards the Thermalright, more 'bling' for $10 more but from what i have read so far, it does not provide full coverage on the mosfets as compared to the Swiftech. Will that cause any performance loss?

There is also another cheaper alternative but i'm not too sure it will fit, VIZO Sleet CU Chip Cooler, 8 pieces of copper heatsinks, $25 Aus.

http://vizo.com.tw/index.php?main_pa...ts_id=31&tab=1

However, the dimenssions are 22mm (L) X 10mm (W) X 9mm (H), 4mm wider than the Swiftech. Any idea if it will fit? Thanks....


Go with the Swiftech set. I tried two other copper cooling solutions. One set (made by thermaltake) didn't fit properly and two of the sinks fell off. The other set by vantec stuck fine but didn't fully cover the mosfets. The swiftech set fits exactly to cover the mosfets (I measured the areas before I bought them) and they are light enough that they stick on solid.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker*


I need some help overclocking my system. I have a p5n32-e sli board with geil pc6400 ram and a e6420. I have tried to first overclock it to 3.0ghz using the fsb at 1500 however i cannot get my ram ratio to be 1:1. My ram is running at 4-4-4-12 1T. My ram ratio is like 10:11 right now









Does FSB/RAM ratio affect the system's overclock? My current overclock of 3ghz is unstable.

Help?!










fsb affects ram speed unless you are running your ram unlinked. The ram ratios kick in to compensate for whatever you are pushing your cpu at. Also your geil ram may not like 1T. Try 2T (Even though its slower) and see if it increases stability.

Also fill out your system specs completely so I can help you better.


----------



## Robilar

If I missed anyones post (busy weekend!), please re post it here and I'll get back to you today (sitting in a meeting, they really shouldn't give me internet access!).


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


fsb affects ram speed unless you are running your ram unlinked. The ram ratios kick in to compensate for whatever you are pushing your cpu at. Also your geil ram may not like 1T. Try 2T (Even though its slower) and see if it increases stability.

Also fill out your system specs completely so I can help you better.










Great I will try 2T. Though it it is still quiet unstable :S I have checked the guide out and changed my voltages. Is 1.4v vcore best for over 3ghz?

Spec:
E6420 Currently @ 3.2ghz
Geil pc6400 ultra @ 4-4-4-12
P5n32-e sli
Thermalright ultra 120 extreme

At the moment i'm running my ram unlinked. Is that the way to do it on these boards?


----------



## smokeyclocker

actually it now keeps failing :S

I was wondering if someone could walk me through to see if i'm doing anything wrong


----------



## theGryphon

Many thanks Slehcim, Robilar!

I think I'll go for an SLI ready 2x1GB PC2-8500 sticks. Is OCZ the best in this?

Wow, I didn't know Thermaltake PS sucked as much as to avoid it eyes closed. I'll take the advice, thanks.

I have a final question (well maybe not







) : I read news about Intel's price cuts in Q3. Price of Q6600 (266x9, 1066FSB) and E6850 (333x9, 1333FSB) is said to be at USD266. I know it's not possible to compare them now since E6850 is not around yet but given that Q6600 is running hot, would you say E6850 would have better OC performance?


----------



## mhw100

Robilar - how are you doing with the Ultra Extreme fit in the 830, any heat tests etc?

BTW, I could not get the quad above 320 no matter what multi I used. It just won't post which is similar to the EVGA unit before they fixed the problem.

What I did do is increase the multiplier to 11 x 320 (3.52Ghz) and it is running without any stress at ~31-33C in Everest/pc probe and the cores are ~46-52C in Core Temp.

As expected it lasted less than 2 minutes in Prime95 before it shot up to 70C. Very frightening. I'll leave it here just to see what the temp does during the stress of live trading tomorrow. If it's stable I might leave it here but I know I need a better cooler which is why I'm very interested in your results although I realize the heat characteristics are different on your chip.

Do you think there might be some advantage to trying a lower fsb and higher multi as you advised to try in the other thread? The reason I ask again is that I've got this far too expensive memory that I would lose the benefit of the fsb:ram ratio on. Right now it's 3:5 which my understanding is a good ratio...but I don't know. What should I try next in terms of ratios?

Edit: been stressing the system with all the business apps that I usually run and the temp hasn't broken 40C and I haven't picked up any weird problems.

Thank you.
__________________


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theGryphon* 
Many thanks Slehcim, Robilar!

I think I'll go for an SLI ready 2x1GB PC2-8500 sticks. Is OCZ the best in this?

Wow, I didn't know Thermaltake PS sucked as much as to avoid it eyes closed. I'll take the advice, thanks.

I have a final question (well maybe not







) : I read news about Intel's price cuts in Q3. Price of Q6600 (266x9, 1066FSB) and E6850 (333x9, 1333FSB) is said to be at USD266. I know it's not possible to compare them now since E6850 is not around yet but given that Q6600 is running hot, would you say E6850 would have better OC performance?


I (and several others here) have had great success with this board and the OCZ PC2-8500 SLI ready kits. when I bought, I called OCZ Canada first and spoke to a tech I know there. He indicated that they used a 680i board for test bed for this ram (And tried out the SLI ready features) and never encountered a single issue.

Hard to say what chips that aren't out yet will overclock to. Bear in mind that the 680i boards have a definite fsb ceiling with quad cores (although the quads have unlocked multis so there is other options) and temps go up extremely fast with quads as you OC them.

If you aren't in a hurry, wait for the price cuts, they are supposed to be signifigant. I personally have no need for a quad core although people doing video editing or other cpu/memory intensive tasks will get great results. Just keep in mind that dual core chips overclock _signifigantly_ better on air than quads.

At this time I would venture that quad core cpus with their limited oc on air (unless you are King_pin running cascade phase) are more for usage specific apps and dual core are for everything else. I'd rather have a dual core running at 3.8 than a quad running at 3.2.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I doubt it. How exactly can heat output damage a copper head fed by a tubed phase unit? The worst that could happen is that you wouldn't get really stellar temps (like -50C for example) but phase is always better than air or water. I've installed a prometia system on an old prescott processor that runs much hotter than the current lower envelope C2D processors without a hiccup. Temp output from the chip is largely irrelevant. The only thing you have to worry about with chips is cold bugs or getting the dialectric grease in the wrong spots.

That's what I thought... thanks for clearing it up though, it always feels better when someone points it out with you.

So what do you think a Q6600 will do with a CRYO-Z? I guess it would get -10C LOAD at least... maybe this will be the way to break 450FSB with my E6300 and I would get a Native Quad instead


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mhw100* 
Robilar - how are you doing with the Ultra Extreme fit in the 830, any heat tests etc?

BTW, I could not get the quad above 320 no matter what multi I used. It just won't post which is similar to the EVGA unit before they fixed the problem.

What I did do is increase the multiplier to 11 x 320 (3.52Ghz) and it is running without any stress at ~31-33C in Everest/pc probe and the cores are ~46-52C in Core Temp.

As expected it lasted less than 2 minutes in Prime95 before it shot up to 70C. Very frightening. I'll leave it here just to see what the temp does during the stress of live trading tomorrow. If it's stable I might leave it here but I know I need a better cooler which is why I'm very interested in your results although I realize the heat characteristics are different on your chip.

Do you think there might be some advantage to trying a lower fsb and higher multi as you advised to try in the other thread? The reason I ask again is that I've got this far too expensive memory that I would lose the benefit of the fsb:ram ratio on. Right now it's 3:5 which my understanding is a good ratio...but I don't know. What should I try next in terms of ratios?

*Edit: been stressing the system with all the business apps that I usually run and the temp hasn't broken 40C and I haven't picked up any weird problems.*
Thank you.
__________________

Like I mentioned, prime 95 and orthos are really not representative of what you typically load a pc with. Even 3dmark and top end games don't push the cores as hard as stress tests do.

Glad it worked out for you


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker* 
actually it now keeps failing :S

I was wondering if someone could walk me through to see if i'm doing anything wrong









I'll try










What I need is for you to post here the bios settings you are using (use the first page of my guide as a guideline) and let me know where you have made changes (And what) and where you haven't.

I haven't tried your chip but anything over 3 Ghz on it should be considered very decent (and also take into account the stepping of your cpu as well. there may be a ceiling to what you can do stable).


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
That's what I thought... thanks for clearing it up though, it always feels better when someone points it out with you.

So what do you think a Q6600 will do with a CRYO-Z? I guess it would get -10C LOAD at least... maybe this will be the way to break 450FSB with my E6300 and I would get a Native Quad instead

I think phase will do better than anything on air or water regardless if its OCZ or any other brand.

If you can get it to run at -10C (very conservative, the numbers I saw on the OCZ have it in the range of -25 to -30 C at max output), you could get some serious overclocks.

The top 3dmark06 computer score in the world is by king_pin with a quad core QX6600, a striker extreme, and cascade phase.


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I'll try









What I need is for you to post here the bios settings you are using (use the first page of my guide as a guideline) and let me know where you have made changes (And what) and where you haven't.

I haven't tried your chip but anything over 3 Ghz on it should be considered very decent (and also take into account the stepping of your cpu as well. there may be a ceiling to what you can do stable).

I am using exactly the same voltage settings as in the guide except I put the vcore volt to 1.40. I disabled the other settings according to the guide.

I have put the ram on unlinked and set the fsb to 1600 and the mem to 800mhz. Ram timings are 4-4-4-12 2T.

Thats all the bios settings I have changed since booting. I have been working on it all day but at 3.2ghz it keeps freezing


----------



## USlatin

Wow that almost made me go in my pants!

So say 3.5-ish with -20C? or slightly higher?


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker* 
I am using exactly the same voltage settings as in the guide except I put the vcore volt to 1.40. I disabled the other settings according to the guide.

I have put the ram on unlinked and set the fsb to 1600 and the mem to 800mhz. Ram timings are 4-4-4-12 2T.

Thats all the bios settings I have changed since booting. I have been working on it all day but at 3.2ghz it keeps freezing









By the way what is the maximum temp on the NB and SB? At the moment mine is around 48 C


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker* 
By the way what is the maximum temp on the NB and SB? At the moment mine is around 48 C

You are using the 1002 bios?

Also your chipset temps are a bit high (what are you using to monitor everest?)


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
You are using the 1002 bios?

Also your chipset temps are a bit high (what are you using to monitor everest?)


yep updated to 1002, i'm using speedfan at the moment i have everest installed. Is everest better?
In speedfan temp1 is going to 48 when i use othos. I was wondering if temp1 is the nb?


----------



## mhw100

What do you think I should use as a benchmark to guage going to a lower FSB and higher multi Robilar? Currently I'm only using Pi.

What do I do about that expensive memory I've bought i.e. I'm currently running it a 1066 which at 320 FSB gives me a 3:5 divider. I'm told this is good but I'm not sure. I guess I should have bought cheaper 800mhz RAM.

Since I can only go to a lower FSB which you say is better anyways, what type of divider and memory timings do you recommend if I drop down to a 275FSB x 13?

Thanks.


----------



## Robilar

2:3 works well also from a speed perspective


----------



## USlatin

1002 is in finally... how much lower will I be able to get my Vcore?
will I also be able to get the NB and SB voltages lower

I love how my OC settings remained!


----------



## rsnt

hey Robilar, I tried PMing you but I couldn't (I guess you have it disabled or something?) Can I possibly get some contact information to e-mail you? I've got a ton of questions about a build I'll be doing in a month or so and I need your opinion on a couple of things. Thanks


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsnt* 
hey Robilar, I tried PMing you but I couldn't (I guess you have it disabled or something?) Can I possibly get some contact information to e-mail you? I've got a ton of questions about a build I'll be doing in a month or so and I need your opinion on a couple of things. Thanks









Actually you aren't set up for pm









I just got an overclock.net email account and it'll be set up shortly. You may want to check in user cp to ensure you can receive pm's.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
1002 is in finally... how much lower will I be able to get my Vcore?
will I also be able to get the NB and SB voltages lower

I love how my OC settings remained!

vcore will be slightly lower, it didn't seem to have any effect on nb and sb.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Actually you aren't set up for pm









I just got an overclock.net email account and it'll be set up shortly. You may want to check in user cp to ensure you can receive pm's.

Hey{Robilar you can of busy/lol.He can post in this nice thread too maybe if you no around.We can help a little too.


----------



## Robilar

Good idea. I think I'm getting Carpal









Sitting in a hotel in Chicago. Be nice to fly back home tomorrow. This laptop (dell of course) is basically a really big drink coaster (company supplied of course).

Going to install my ultra extreme tomorrow evening. I'm also likely going to take the plunge again and pick up another asus 8800gtx.

And, I have another raptor x sitting in a drawer. I just haven't had time to reformat and set up the raid 0.

Now that the weather has improved (no cheap comments from Florida Alex!







) I've got to get my cottage ready. No high speed internet up there (dial up is literally like swimming through tar). Plus I need to get my boat out of drydock.


----------



## calvin924597

Hehe I just bought one of these boards...

Buh-bye Evga!


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Good idea. I think I'm getting Carpal









LOL.I read this guide everyday and bammmm.You get real busy.OK,so far im still in the 0903 bios no issues @ all.Willing to help any others members with my little skills.


----------



## rsnt

rsnt, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:

1. Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
2. If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.








it's not letting me!!!! EDIT: btw I get that error msg when I try to access private msgs from the quick jump scroll bar.

I looked all over User CP there's nothing there... Maybe because I registered just minutes ago?







and yeah I registered because I need your expert opinion


----------



## calvin924597

You need 10 posts to send a PM.

Lurk moar!


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *calvin924597* 
Hehe I just bought one of these boards...

Buh-bye Evga!

Welcome to the party[Calvin]


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *calvin924597* 
You need 10 posts to send a PM.

Lurk moar!

Lol, I forgot about that (been a couple of years since I was at 10 posts)


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *calvin924597* 
You need 10 posts to send a PM.

Lurk moar!

THATS IT? ok brb spamming the forums. ROFL j/k


----------



## joematrix

So Robilar, what's your opinion on the Intel Bad Axe 2 mobo or whatever it's called? I have a friend who just got one and I want to tell him how much it sucks or whatever, heh. Any thoughts? Also, what should I try to get my ram at 1T. Up the voltage? It's at 2.1v right now.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joematrix* 
So Robilar, what's your opinion on the Intel Bad Axe 2 mobo or whatever it's called? I have a friend who just got one and I want to tell him how much it sucks or whatever, heh. Any thoughts? Also, what should I try to get my ram at 1T. Up the voltage? It's at 2.1v right now.

Actually, the bad axe 2 is a pretty good board. It won't hit 500 FSB and doesn't support SLI, but as far as 975x boards go its decent. If I were into crossfire setups, that's likely the board I would get.

However, the intel boards will not run ram at 1T and do not have unlinked options for memory and cpu overclocking. the 680i still surpasses it in a number of areas.

Regarding 1T, you can try upping the memory voltage slightly (no higher than 2.2!) to see if it helps.

I think i mentioned to you before that the corsair you are using has lower end promos IC's and it jus t may not be stable at 1T.


----------



## alexisd

Yeah you can try the 1T maybe before that check,what is the volts rated.For those sticks.


----------



## calvin924597

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joematrix* 
So Robilar, what's your opinion on the Intel Bad Axe 2 mobo or whatever it's called? I have a friend who just got one and I want to tell him how much it sucks or whatever, heh. Any thoughts? Also, what should I try to get my ram at 1T. Up the voltage? It's at 2.1v right now.

I'm not Robilar, but I know about that board.

It's a really good board, supports quad core and OC's very well.

And for your other question, you can run your ram up to 2.3v or something, but it shouldn't take that much.

Also, timings don't really matter on intel systems, due to the lack of an on-die memory controller. Megahertz are better.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Yeah you can try the 1T maybe before that check,what is the volts rated.For those sticks.

It's rated at 2.1V, which is what i'm running. I'll up the volts a little and try for 1T right now.

Also, any suggestions for a very cheap sound card? I don't need anything fancy, just something that can do 5.1. I don't think this onboard sound will cut it much longer. I'm looking at getting a Logitech x-540 speaker system.


----------



## calvin924597

Get something like an Audigy 2, or if you can spend $50, a X-Fi xtrememusic.


----------



## Robilar

Go with the sb audigy 7.1. They have it at newegg for about $30.


----------



## alexisd

I have the same speakers and they are nice.And good sound,i use the card in my sig.And for the volt's in the memory you have active cooling in the modules?


----------



## Robilar

He wants cheap though Alex. Your card is about $90 USD or so?


----------



## alexisd

Sry,you rigth.I though as long he have a good to medium speakers like mine,maybe want a little better card.
Follow {Robilar and Calvin suggestions for the sound card.
OK,guys catch you later go to go.Im working in some music for my competition this weekend.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


I have the same speakers and they are nice.And good sound,i use the card in my sig.And for the volt's in the memory you have active cooling in the modules?


No active cooling on the ram, but my side intake fan is basically blowing right on them. I just tried 1T at 2.15v and Orthos failed after 1 minute. Time to up the volts to 2.2v. And I'll look into the SB audigy 7.1.


----------



## joematrix

With the RAM at 1T with 2.2V, orthos ran fine for 47 minutes, which I would say is somewhat good.


----------



## Silviastud

Hey Rob... My EVGA crapped out on me this weekend and I am going to use this chance to get a P5N32-E I think. My Rig will contain the listed items below but I have 2 Swiftech MCW30 Chipset water blocks. Do you think I can fit it all on there? If not I think I'll just have to get an A1. What's your expert advice?

Also would you recommend moffset coolers as well, that is if I can make the 32 work?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joematrix* 
With the RAM at 1T with 2.2V, orthos ran fine for 47 minutes, which I would say is somewhat good.

You got it to run at 1T stable? Excellent!

Run it for at least two hours to be sure its ok for daily use.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Silviastud* 
Hey Rob... My EVGA crapped out on me this weekend and I am going to use this chance to get a P5N32-E I think. My Rig will contain the listed items below but I have 2 Swiftech MCW30 Chipset water blocks. Do you think I can fit it all on there? If not I think I'll just have to get an A1. What's your expert advice?

Also would you recommend moffset coolers as well?

Yes it will fit with the waterblocks (I'd be interested to see pics when you do it. I was considering a water setup with chipset blocks as well)

Absolutely on the mosfet coolers, go back a bit and you can see the pics I posted with the Swiftech mcp21 mosfet cooling sinks. (post 741)

The vrms can't be left bare if there is limited airflow on them..


----------



## Silviastud

Link These coolers? I'm gonna next day the stuff tomorrow and I'll put the pictures on wednesday night. Thanks for your help and I'll get it up ASAP. I bought a new camera this week too so the pics will be much better.

Also do I just need to order one set or two?


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
You got it to run at 1T stable? Excellent!

Run it for at least two hours to be sure its ok for daily use.

well, when I say that I ran it for 47 minutes, I mean that it errored out after 47 minutes. That is not too bad considering I ran orthos at 2T and it errored out after 55 minutes. My system seems to be quite stable though, at least during everyday use and some semi-long sessions of playing Lord of the Rings Online.

Edit: Would I want to go any higher than 2.2v for my ram to improve stability at 1T?


----------



## theGryphon

Hey Robilar, your RAM timing look incredible at 4-4-4-8 1T. I wonder what's the frequency you're running and at what voltage? Are you using any cooling for them?

For Q6600 vs E6850, I think I'll go with the latter. I'm not in a rush, I'll wait







I'm also hoping to see Nvidia price cuts. Any word on that anyone?

Man, this is a great thread!


----------



## baldrick

how can I find out what my current NB and SB voltages are set to (auto)? I just nvidia control panel at the moment to check my vCore, is this ok


----------



## alexisd

Try probe,you can have a close look in here where is nb ans sb volts.The best is in bios.Depend what bios you have.


----------



## baldrick

im on the same BIOS as you, dont see much point updating to 1002 or whatever it is


----------



## baldrick

and what can I get this probe problem, I have ASUS prob before but I hated it and it didn't look like that, is that the one you mean ? :S


----------



## smokeyclocker

Robilar I managed to hit 3.2Ghz. I checked with Everest and both cores are ok (43C) but the main cpu is ranging 48-53 when running Othos for 30 mins.

Just wondering first you try the fsb then you overclock the ram afterwards? My ram is still at stock speeds (800), i want to overclock my ram but I am not getting close to 2:3 @ 3ghz

With 3.2ghz and 800 stock I am getting 1:1







but its just the temps







my vcore is on 1.45, i tried lowering it but it crashes after 3 mins on othos.

really i don't mind 3ghz with 900mhz ram speed but i'm finding it difficult with Geil ram the closest i got was 5:6 @ 935mhz.

any ideas on how I can get 1:1 with 3ghz?


----------



## Tino

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker*


I am using exactly the same voltage settings as in the guide except I put the vcore volt to 1.40. I disabled the other settings according to the guide.

I have put the ram on unlinked and set the fsb to 1600 and the mem to 800mhz. Ram timings are 4-4-4-12 2T.

Thats all the bios settings I have changed since booting. I have been working on it all day but at 3.2ghz it keeps freezing











I'm having the same problem using ocz8500 sli, fsb 1600 and mem 800 linked-syncronized and I can't tight timings below 5-5-5-15-2t or the system hangs and freezes, I'm using 2.2v for mem.
Also tried the same memory unlinked and with the same timings and voltage I can't make it work over 950 mhz. My E6600 is watercooled and I didn't install any fan to cool the mosfets around the processor, do those mosfets give power to the ram too? That might be the problem?


----------



## Tino

I've got 4 striped hd, I've tried alot of drivers for raid and these are results with hdtach.
XP pro + Installation cd drivers = 280 mb/s seq transfer rate
Vista 32 + v822 drivers (included in vista) = 160 mb/s
Vista 32 + v930 drivers (from asus site) = 140 mb/s
Raid drivers from nvidia site (v931) hangs when installing.
Raid drivers 9.67 (pre-release) = BSOD after reboot.

Anyone knows how to make raid transfer rate working properly?
I've also noticed that the transfer graph is pretty doesn't have the usual curved profile but it's pretty straight horizontal so there's something that caps somewhere, anyone else tested raid systems?


----------



## Tino

Another question, due to my ram active cooler too big, I'm running a 8800GTS in the lower sli slot (blue one), the one linked to the sb, might this configuration affects performance?


----------



## slehcim

How long should i run orthos between upping the fsb before moving up again?

im under 1.35 still, and this is before fine tuning, just as a stepping stone sort of.


----------



## smokeyclocker

Tino said:


> I'm having the same problem using ocz8500 sli, fsb 1600 and mem 800 linked-syncronized QUOTE]
> 
> I used unlinked to get 3.2ghz / 800mhz never had any luck with linked. So i always use unlink instead.
> 
> I think your ram can go up to 2.3v but check OCZ before doing so. You might want to up your northbridge voltage if your clock is unstable but only by a bit. Again, check around and see what other people say, with me I upped it to 1.4v.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *baldrick*


im on the same BIOS as you, dont see much point updating to 1002 or whatever it is


I thought the same, but Robilar says it allows for stability as slightly lower voltages... so why not? it takes 5 min.
A
If you have heat or stability problems then it is most definitely worth it


----------



## menko2

this board acept scsi hard drives with a controler 29160 adaptec???


----------



## spinoza

Hey guys.

I'm going to spare you the details of my mis adventure so here's the Readers Digest version:

- Got the Overclock bug
- Bought all kinds of goodies (see sig)
- Lapped heatsink (definitely a spinoff thread)
- Decided to test everything outside the case. (on the case)

On first startup there was a pop and a small mushroom cloud rose up from the board followed by flame and more smoke.







You can picture me looming over the board with that faint look of disbelief.:***:

The board still powers up but it never posts and I don't trust it anymore. I never even got this thing to post at all.

I need advice on diagnosis. The chip that pooped(sic) was located down by the power switch connection near the speaker connection. Obviously there was a short or a surge, I don't know which. Would having the board directly on the metal case cause this? What do you think my chances of recouping costs are? i.e. RMA

My heart is heavy.....


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spinoza* 
Hey guys.

I'm going to spare you the details of my mis adventure so here's the Readers Digest version:

- Got the Overclock bug
- Bought all kinds of goodies (see sig)
- Lapped heatsink (definitely a spinoff thread)
- Decided to test everything outside the case. (on the case)

On first startup there was a pop and a small mushroom cloud rose up from the board followed by flame and more smoke.







You can picture me looming over the board with that faint look of disbelief.:***:

The board still powers up but it never posts and I don't trust it anymore. I never even got this thing to post at all.

I need advice on diagnosis. The chip that pooped(sic) was located down by the power switch connection near the speaker connection. Obviously there was a short or a surge, I don't know which. Would having the board directly on the metal case cause this? What do you think my chances of recouping costs are? i.e. RMA

My heart is heavy.....









Yea if you layed the board straight on the case metal to metal you most likely blew the motherboard. Whenever I test a board outside the case I lay a anti-static sheet under it to prevent any metal to metalcontact just in case. Try RMAing it =/


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
You got it to run at 1T stable? Excellent!

Run it for at least two hours to be sure its ok for daily use.

Robilar, I put my other corsair 5400 ram into the machine with the 2gb of OCZ like yours.

They are different speeds, will it matter?


----------



## mhw100

Tino - check this out for help on the RAID speed;

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...i-think-4.html


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tino* 
My E6600 is watercooled and I didn't install any fan to cool the mosfets around the processor, do those mosfets give power to the ram too? That might be the problem?


Put it this way.... I removed the factory pipes, added aftermarket cooling to the NB and SB and left those mosfets uncovered.
About a week later my board died.


----------



## spinoza

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheAlienwareGamer*


Yea if you layed the board straight on the case metal to metal you most likely blew the motherboard. Whenever I test a board outside the case I lay a anti-static sheet under it to prevent any metal to metalcontact just in case. Try RMAing it =/


Well it looks like they are going to RMA the board. At least I can get an exchange. My only concern now is that what happened hasn't affected the other components like vid card, cpu, or RAM.

Has anyone ever heard of something like that running havoc on other components?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spinoza*


Well it looks like they are going to RMA the board. At least I can get an exchange. My only concern now is that what happened hasn't affected the other components like vid card, cpu, or RAM.

Has anyone ever heard of something like that running havoc on other components?


Its called "grounding". Ouch. This is the reason why the motherboard is suspended in the air with copper standoffs.

There is no way to know if the rest of your parts are toast. A pc won't boot with a functioning cpu, ram, or video card so if any of them is pooched, you will have a problem diagnosing. Hopefully only the board was damaged.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Robilar, I put my other corsair 5400 ram into the machine with the 2gb of OCZ like yours.

They are different speeds, will it matter?


If you are running them at stock (auto settings) no. Bear in mind that if you have set your memory voltage manually, it may be too high or too low for one of the sets (causing instability). Overclocking mistimed sets is also a nightmare.

Good luck


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*


this board acept scsi hard drives with a controler 29160 adaptec???


Of course.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker*


Robilar I managed to hit 3.2Ghz. I checked with Everest and both cores are ok (43C) but the main cpu is ranging 48-53 when running Othos for 30 mins.

Just wondering first you try the fsb then you overclock the ram afterwards? My ram is still at stock speeds (800), i want to overclock my ram but I am not getting close to 2:3 @ 3ghz

With 3.2ghz and 800 stock I am getting 1:1







but its just the temps







my vcore is on 1.45, i tried lowering it but it crashes after 3 mins on othos.

really i don't mind 3ghz with 900mhz ram speed but i'm finding it difficult with Geil ram the closest i got was 5:6 @ 935mhz.

any ideas on how I can get 1:1 with 3ghz?



First, 53C under full load in orthos is acceptible (as orthos is not representative of a normal load on the cpu) so if its stable at that vcore leave it.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tino*


I'm having the same problem using ocz8500 sli, fsb 1600 and mem 800 linked-syncronized and I can't tight timings below 5-5-5-15-2t or the system hangs and freezes, I'm using 2.2v for mem.
Also tried the same memory unlinked and with the same timings and voltage I can't make it work over 950 mhz. My E6600 is watercooled and I didn't install any fan to cool the mosfets around the processor, do those mosfets give power to the ram too? That might be the problem?



Don't bother with linked.

Have you tried enabling the sli ready feature?

Also, bear in mind, the higher you overclock your memory, the looser the settings needed to make it run stable. You will not get 4-4-4-8 timings with 1066 memory speed!


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Its called "grounding". Ouch. This is the reason why the motherboard is suspended in the air with copper standoffs.

There is no way to know if the rest of your parts are toast. A pc won't boot with a functioning cpu, ram, or video card so if any of them is pooched, you will have a problem diagnosing. Hopefully only the board was damaged.


????

Mine does....


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuclearjock* 
????

Mine does....































I meant malfunctuning but thanks for pointing out my typo.

Also, I consider booting and posting to be the same (hence the term booting up your computer). If the cpu/ram/gpu are fried (any combo), the power supply may fire up and some fans may spin but that will definitely not be a boot or a post.


----------



## spinoza

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Its called "grounding". Ouch. This is the reason why the motherboard is suspended in the air with copper standoffs.

There is no way to know if the rest of your parts are toast. A pc won't boot with a functioning cpu, ram, or video card so if any of them is pooched, you will have a problem diagnosing. Hopefully only the board was damaged.


OK

Assuming the other parts are fine I'm going ahead with another build later this week. One thing:

After taking off the Tuniq tower I had to Indian leg wrestle the back plate that attaches to the motherboard to get it off....the X-frame that adheres using the doublesided tape. Can i get this tape just anywhere? Is it a 'special type' of tape? or is it one of those things that you have to scavenge for?


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spinoza*


OK

After taking off the Tuniq tower I had to Indian leg wrestle the back plate that attaches to the motherboard to get it off....the X-frame that adheres using the doublesided tape. Can i get this tape just anywhere? Is it a 'special type' of tape? or is it one of those things that you have to scavenge for?


You can double-sided tape at any local hardware store


----------



## spinoza

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheAlienwareGamer*


You can double-sided tape at any local hardware store










That's what I thought. Thought I'd check cause I'm just tired of being a ****** this week.


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


First, 53C under full load in orthos is acceptible (as orthos is not representative of a normal load on the cpu) so if its stable at that vcore leave it.


Just wondering Robilar, do you think i bought the wrong type of ram. The e6420 is a 1066 chip whereas i got 800mhz pc6400 ram. Even if i manage to overclock the ram to 900mhz will ram of 1066mhz beat it?

Just getting a little worried as my friend said to me why didn't you buy 1066mhz ram?

thanks for your reply on the load temps. I have my ram at 800mhz at the moment i have been trying to see if i can hit 900mhz with 3.2ghz. Any mathematical calculations to make it easier or it is just guess work?


----------



## theGryphon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Don't bother with linked.

Have you tried enabling the sli ready feature?

Also, bear in mind, the higher you overclock your memory, the looser the settings needed to make it run stable. You will not get 4-4-4-8 timings with 1066 memory speed!


So, teach the noob here







What I'm gathering is in order to get tight timings like 4-4-4-8 1T like yours, you had to downclock the OCZ PC2-8500, right, to maybe 800MHz? And 4-4-4-8 1T @800 performs better than 5-5-5-15 2T overclocked to above 1066?

Thanks.


----------



## Robilar

You don't have to downclock it.







It runs auto at 800 Mhz with the supported potential to run at up to 1066. I've run it at 5-5-5-15 2T @ 1066 and where I currently run it 4-4-4-8 1T @ 800 Mhz and in all benches the 1T and tighter timings make a signifigant difference.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker* 
Just wondering Robilar, do you think i bought the wrong type of ram. The e6420 is a 1066 chip whereas i got 800mhz pc6400 ram. Even if i manage to overclock the ram to 900mhz will ram of 1066mhz beat it?

Just getting a little worried as my friend said to me why didn't you buy 1066mhz ram?

thanks for your reply on the load temps. I have my ram at 800mhz at the moment i have been trying to see if i can hit 900mhz with 3.2ghz. Any mathematical calculations to make it easier or it is just guess work?









First, 800 mhz at 1T and right timings is better than 1066 mhz (or whatever and loose timings). That said you can experiment but if you can run 4-4-4-12 (or 10) @ 1T @ 800 Mhz with this ram, it will be very fast. Make sure you are unlinked and push your cpu as it will give you the most benefits.


----------



## Silviastud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
First, 800 mhz at 1T and right timings is better than 1066 mhz (or whatever and loose timings). That said you can experiment but if you can run 4-4-4-12 (or 10) @ 1T @ 800 Mhz with this ram, it will be very fast. Make sure you are unlinked and push your cpu as it will give you the most benefits.

So once I get my new stuff you recommend tight timings with T1 over linking and syncing with my CPU clock?


----------



## Robilar

Yes, I've benched it extensively both ways.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


You don't have to downclock it.







It runs auto at 800 Mhz with the supported potential to run at up to 1066. I've run it at 5-5-5-15 2T @ 1066 and where I currently run it 4-4-4-8 1T @ 800 Mhz and in all benches the 1T and tighter timings make a signifigant difference.


How do you set the speed and the 1T part?

Do you have a screenshot for me


----------



## slehcim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


How do you set the speed and the 1T part?

Do you have a screenshot for me










As for the speed, if you mean the Mhz the ram runs at you set that in your advanced tweaker > FSB and Memory Config

As for the Timings/CMD Rate (ie 1T) you can go into advanced tweaker in your bios again > overclocking > Memory Settings (i think) and there should be your tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS which correlate to the 5-5-5-12 respectively. and just below the tRAS is a Command Rate (CMD) setting that is your 1T or 2T.

hope this was what you were asking.


----------



## cognoscenti

and I just enter 5-5-5-12 in each setting? and then the 1T ?

My other question is the 3 settings for the PCI-E (they are default 100) what happens if I increase these?


----------



## slehcim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


and I just enter 5-5-5-12 in each setting? and then the 1T ?

My other question is the 3 settings for the PCI-E (they are default 100) what happens if I increase these?


Yup, thats all that needs to be done. im sure you could get your ram going at the timings and speed that Rolibar suggested (4-4-4-8 1T @ 800Mhz) as i can do that with my patriot 8500 that has been mentioned earlier on as perhaps not the best.

However, ive only run orthos for 1 hr so far with that and 1 pass of memtest

Is there a recommended stress to determine completely stable memory?


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


How do you set the speed and the 1T part?

Do you have a screenshot for me










You need to go to *Extreme Tweaker -> Overclocking -> Memory Timeing Setting* in the BIOS.










Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


and I just enter 5-5-5-12 in each setting? and then the 1T ?


Yes, in that order downwards on the Memory Timing Settings. 1T/2T is the 5th timing from the top.










Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


My other question is the 3 settings for the PCI-E (they are default 100) what happens if I increase these?


Increaseing the PCI-Express frequency will increase the bandwidth of any device connected to each slot. However, I wouldn't recommend going above 118Mhz as the more you raise bandwidth, the greater the chance you could damage your cards or the motherboard.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slehcim*


Is there a recommended stress to determine completely stable memory?


I would recommend running the Blend test in Orthos for about 6 hours or so to ensure stability. After this I usually run memtest86+ and let it pass through a few cycles.


----------



## cognoscenti

You're the man!


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
First, 800 mhz at 1T and right timings is better than 1066 mhz (or whatever and loose timings). That said you can experiment but if you can run 4-4-4-12 (or 10) @ 1T @ 800 Mhz with this ram, it will be very fast. Make sure you are unlinked and push your cpu as it will give you the most benefits.


4-4-4-12 1T is very fast







but i'm wondering what is faster (sorry i'm a noob here :S) 3.2ghz 1600fsb with 800mhz ram 4-4-4-12 1T or 3ghz 1500fsb with 1066mhz ram 4-4-4-12 2T?

Again, sorry the noob inside me wants to compare


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker* 
4-4-4-12 1T is very fast







but i'm wondering what is faster (sorry i'm a noob here :S) 3.2ghz 1600fsb with 800mhz ram 4-4-4-12 1T or 3ghz 1500fsb with 1066mhz ram 4-4-4-12 2T?

Again, sorry the noob inside me wants to compare









Download Sandra Lite:
http://www.sisoftware.net/index.html...64&langx=en&a=

Run the memory bandwidth test for your memory clocks in question, that'll tell you which is faster, (I'll bet it's the 1T values, 1T is very fast).

Also, make sure to run memtest86+ on any settings you seem to be happy with to ensure stability. Keep decreasing Vdimm until memtest starts to show errors, then go back up one notch...

You want to try and keep your memory voltage as low as possible especially with D9's..


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuclearjock* 
Download Sandra Lite:
http://www.sisoftware.net/index.html...64&langx=en&a=

Run the memory bandwidth test for your memory clocks in question, that'll tell you which is faster, (I'll bet it's the 1T values, 1T is very fast).

Also, make sure to run memtest86+ on any settings you seem to be happy with to ensure stability. Keep decreasing Vdimm until memtest starts to show errors, then go back up one notch...

You want to try and keep your memory voltage as low as possible especially with D9's..

Sounds cool, downloaded it not too long ago but i have tried any of the tests yet. I'm just looking at you guys who have pc-8000 with your cpus. I feel quiet small with a E6420 with Pc6400.







This is why i'm thinking if I send back my ram and get a PC-8000 then I would be better off?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker* 
Sounds cool, downloaded it not too long ago but i have tried any of the tests yet. I'm just looking at you guys who have pc-8000 with your cpus. I feel quiet small with a E6420 with Pc6400.







This is why i'm thinking if I send back my ram and get a PC-8000 then I would be better off?

Tough to say how much better. I would think that if you are aiming for high speed on the ram, then yes to pc2-8500 memory. Also, the higher end memory almost always has better voltage parameters and usually (depends on brand) uses better IC's. If you can get memory with Micron D9's, you will be able to get better performance.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
You need to go to *Extreme Tweaker -> Overclocking -> Memory Timeing Setting* in the BIOS.










Yes, in that order downwards on the Memory Timing Settings. 1T/2T is the 5th timing from the top.










Increaseing the PCI-Express frequency will increase the bandwidth of any device connected to each slot. However, I wouldn't recommend going above 118Mhz as the more you raise bandwidth, the greater the chance you could damage your cards or the motherboard.

I would recommend running the Blend test in Orthos for about 6 hours or so to ensure stability. After this I usually run memtest86+ and let it pass through a few cycles.


Nice to see my slides going to good use!


----------



## mhw100

There seems to be a sweet spot of sorts which requires testing to find.

For example, by keeping the same clock speed of 3.6Ghz, but altering the fsb/mulit will yield substantial differences (as related by Robilar and others) relative to the ram timing.
With a fsb 277 x 13 and ram 831 4448-1T versus ram of 925 5,5,5,15-2T yields ~6 sec delta in superPi. But with a fsb 300 x 12 and ram 900 4448-1T versus ram 1000 5,5,5,15-2T yields a delta ~17 sec.


----------



## Robilar

I've noticed that as well. It almost seems like a synergy between specific clocks on cpu and ram.


----------



## mhw100

With a ceiling of 320 and basically looking at 271 to 320 coupled with 2:3 and 3:5 dividers, my question is where do I go from here?


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Tough to say how much better. I would think that if you are aiming for high speed on the ram, then yes to pc2-8500 memory. Also, the higher end memory almost always has better voltage parameters and usually (depends on brand) uses better IC's. If you can get memory with Micron D9's, you will be able to get better performance.

Sounds cool, I am going to see if I can return my ram and exchange it for PC-8500







. If not then i'm going to put some uber quack mhz number in the bios and see what happens


----------



## drmartin48106

Forgive my ignorance and adequate but Iâ€™m in the market for a new system and after selecting board (P5N32-E SLI) and proc (E6600), Iâ€™m left wandering which memory to. After searching the web (for the QVL from ASUS stinks, as does their site), I ran a crossed several options, many of the forums pointed me to here (and what a wealth of info, thanks everyone!).

Now to my question, I plan on over-clocking the system (moderately at first) and was thinking about getting â€œOCZ PC2-8500 SLI 2x1 GB Micron D9GMH (B6-3)â€ that both Robilar and cognoscenti has but was unable to find it searching for by name. Is the following the same?

OCZ 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model OCZ2N1066SR2GK (5-5-5-15)


----------



## t4ct1c47

I'm wise to you Robilar, I know the site you snaked them off.









*@ Cognoscenti*

You said that you're running your E6600 @ 3.6Ghz with 1.45v CPU vCore but what volts are you giving the NorthBridge? I ask as I want to try lowering my CPU vCore from 1.55v.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
I'm wise to you Robilar, I know the site you snaked them off.









Mine as in my guide


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker* 
4-4-4-12 1T is very fast







but i'm wondering what is faster (sorry i'm a noob here :S) 3.2ghz 1600fsb with 800mhz ram 4-4-4-12 1T or 3ghz 1500fsb with 1066mhz ram 4-4-4-12 2T?

Again, sorry the noob inside me wants to compare









How am I looking now?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
*@ Cognoscenti*

You said that you're running your E6600 @ 3.6Ghz with 1.45v CPU vCore but what volts are you giving the NorthBridge? I ask as I want to try lowering my CPU vCore from 1.55v.

1.5v im sure

The new memory settings are excellent its running rather nice now.


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
How am I looking now?



















This is were i'm confused, ppl say that high FSB means nothing like it once did in terms of overall performance. But i see more & more ppl get stuff over DDR2 800.

Your Super PI confuses me also, @ 3.6Ghz i do around 14.1??s with 4x512Mb dimms running @ 756Mhz 4-4-4-12 2T

Your doing 4-4-4-10 1T? Surely 2x 1GB stick under 1T would be faster?


----------



## cognoscenti

Apparently not... you can see all the settings there


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
Apparently not... you can see all the settings there

I wish someone could explain to me why ppl buy DDR 1066 when there are no benefits of a high FSB's....


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mhill2029* 
This is were i'm confused, ppl say that high FSB means nothing like it once did in terms of overall performance. But i see more & more ppl get stuff over DDR2 800.

Your Super PI confuses me also, @ 3.6Ghz i do around 14.1??s with 4x512Mb dimms running @ 756Mhz 4-4-4-12 2T

Your doing 4-4-4-10 1T? Surely 2x 1GB stick under 1T would be faster?


She may have other stuff running in the background, but that's about right..

I'm also at ~14.3xx @3.6, 975mhz, 4-4-4-6 1T ~8300 mhz bandwidth.


----------



## cognoscenti

i dont bother stopping any processes etc but i have no actual programs running.

XP pro 32


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*


I wish someone could explain to me why ppl buy DDR 1066 when there are no benefits of a high FSB's....










High ram fsb benefits on 965 and 975 chipset boards. The 680i (and 650i for that matter) work faster with higher multi lower fsb. I am pretty certain that it relates to the controller allowing memory to be linked and unlinked from the cpu fsb clocking. The intel chipsets clock synchronously unless you have an unlocked chip.

Cogno is running it exactly the right way for an E6600; 9x multi with highest fsb possible.

btw cogno, finally remembered what your sig means (I was a lit major)

"persons who have superior knowledge and understanding of a particular field, esp. in the fine arts, literature, and world of fashion"


----------



## joematrix

Since I couldn't get my RAM very stable at 4-4-4-8 1T even at 2.25V, should I try doing 4-4-4-10 1T, or just leave it at 4-4-4-8 2T?


----------



## cognoscenti

;-)


----------



## nik6600

Hi, I don't know what i should put my memory voltage to. I have looked on the OCZ website but it says 1.9v. Is 1.9v ok for my memory while overclocking or not???


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nik6600*


Hi, I don't know what i should put my memory voltage to. I have looked on the OCZ website but it says 1.9v. Is 1.9v ok for my memory while overclocking or not???










Most DDR2 starts at 1.8v depending on the IC's used. Setting 1.9v won't give you any problems at all, unless you try raiseing your RAM over its native speed.


----------



## Silviastud

Not sure what I am missing but I can't get this bad boy over 488 FSB. If anyone is at, or over, 500MHz can you give me a run down on your voltages? I am trying what Rob listed and It's just not happening. I've tried all the way to 1.55vcore. Also I can't clock the memory any higher than the FSB in unlinked and unsynced. I can go lower than the FSB. The only way I can get it at a higher ratio is if I go down to 450MHz FSB and then I can go to 3:2 and get a 1200MHz stabel clock on it. Any ideas?


----------



## Robilar

Unfortunately, that may be a result of your stepping. Not all chips will hit the highest clocks.


----------



## smokeyclocker

I managed to get my vcore down from 1.45 to 1.35 @ 3.2ghz (stable). Unfortunately, i can't return my ram







but i think i might of hit a wall!?! I can't get any higher than 980mhz on my ram which is pretty good but i keep getting silly ratios like 11:10 or 22:25









Just wondering shall i overclock my c2d even further to get better ratios? Is there a ratio finder on the net or is it all about patience?







I want to get at least a 2:3 ratio!!









My thermalright ultra 120 Extreme is wicked my cpu temps never got over 40C









PS: atm i'm running 3,2ghz with 800hmz @ 1:1, yea 1:1 is that even possible? z-cpu and everest say its at 1:1


----------



## theGryphon

A quick question: When installing a single graphics card, does it matter which pci-e slot? I mean comparing the north and south blue slots. Thanks.

Also, if you have it already, can anyone tell me how high the ram sticks measure above the board? Thanks.


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker* 
I managed to get my vcore down from 1.45 to 1.35 @ 3.2ghz (stable).:

You need to post your system specs.

If you have an E6600, you may be able to reduce Vcore further.

My week 28A chip is orthos stable 3.24g @ 1.28v

I also leave C1E on, have yet to see it interfere in any way, and reduces idle temps substantially.


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuclearjock*


You need to post your system specs.

If you have an E6600, you may be able to reduce Vcore further.

My week 28A chip is orthos stable 3.24g @ 1.28v

I also leave C1E on, have yet to see it interfere in any way, and reduces idle temps substantially.


I have a E6420, similar to the E6600 except for clock speed and multi


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*


I wish someone could explain to me why ppl buy DDR 1066 when there are no benefits of a high FSB's....










Same question here:
As Robilar points out it would be beneficial for 975/965 where you want a big FSB but why in the world did I buy this high priced 1066 stuff if my multi isn't locked and it isn't beneficial to have a big FSB on the 680i? Is there any benefit for a 680i whatsoever?

Also, I notice the 15:16 divider of cognoscenti. I presume one would never run this type of divider for real world apps? Is this correct?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mhw100*


Same question here:
As Robilar points out it would be beneficial for 975/965 where you want a big FSB but why in the world did I buy this high priced 1066 stuff if my multi isn't locked and it isn't beneficial to have a big FSB on the 680i? *Is there any benefit for a 680i whatsoever? *
Also, I notice the 15:16 divider of cognoscenti. I presume one would never run this type of divider for real world apps? Is this correct?


Um, Full SLI support?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theGryphon*


A quick question: When installing a single graphics card, does it matter which pci-e slot? I mean comparing the north and south blue slots. Thanks.

Also, if you have it already, can anyone tell me how high the ram sticks measure above the board? Thanks.


Either slot is fine but the top is typically used. (not the middle one though)


----------



## theGryphon

I was asking about the performance issues, but I gather it doesn't matter?


----------



## mhw100

Robilar; I didn't mean generally was there no benefit for the the 680i. The question was in context to the content preceding it i.e. is there any benefit in purchasing 1066mhz memory if you are also using the 680i platform with an unlocked multiplier?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mhw100* 
Robilar; I didn't mean generally was there no benefit for the the 680i. The question was in context to the content preceding it i.e. is there any benefit in purchasing 1066mhz memory if you are also using the 680i platform with an unlocked multiplier?

Ah, well in that context, I don't think so. Although 1066 memory is so bloody cheap right now. The OCZ set I bought 3 months ago was close to $500 at the time and its now selling for $200 (hurts). The reasoning for 1066 memory is that you are pretty much guaranteed micron d9's whereas most of the pc2-6400 memory typically uses Promos or Infineon IC's. for the extre $30-$50, its worth getting the micron chips even if you don't run the memory at 1066 speeds.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theGryphon* 
I was asking about the performance issues, but I gather it doesn't matter?

No, it would be identical.


----------



## mhw100

Understood. Yes, it does hurt. I think I paid upwards $900Cdn for the 4 Gs of Corsair C5D.

Also, I notice the 15:16 divider of cognoscenti. I presume one would never run this type of divider for real world apps? Is this correct?


----------



## Robilar

Ya, its a bench ratio.


----------



## Silviastud

Rob did you see what I said about my memory divider issues? I know you adressed my stepping but I was just curious.

Also I finished my build log so you can check it you if you want. Link


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silviastud*


Rob did you see what I said about my memory divider issues? I know you adressed my stepping but I was just curious.

Also I finished my build log so you can check it you if you want. Link


Nice setup! Let me go back and review your post regarding the dividers and get back to you.


----------



## Silviastud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Nice setup! Let me go back and review your post regarding the dividers and get back to you.


TY man.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mhw100*


Understood. Yes, it does hurt. I think I paid upwards $900Cdn for the 4 Gs of Corsair C5D.

Also, I notice the 15:16 divider of cognoscenti. I presume one would never run this type of divider for real world apps? Is this correct?


Woot 3.78 on air...smoking!


----------



## Silviastud

I like the new avatar Cog.


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Woot 3.78 on air...smoking!


Good job, now benchmark that beast


----------



## Silviastud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Woot 3.78 on air...smoking!


Kickass!


----------



## theGryphon

Hey Cognoscenti,
I checked your gallery out and I really like your rig. Very good job! I must say that I'm quite fascinated to see a moddrix







My ex-girlfriend should see you, lol

Anyway, I'm trying to plan a board design, so I have a couple questions if you don't mind:

In "photos_021", is the Thermalright SLI cooler bent?

If you used only a *single gpu at the south pci-e*, do you think the Thermalright SLI would fit at the *northbridge while angled north-west to south-east*? I'm concerned that the ram sticks may interfere...

I really appreciate it, thanks!


----------



## mhw100

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Ya, its a bench ratio.

I was digging around for 'good dividers' and found this memory list which likely has already been posted elsewhere in this forum but here it is now (again?);

http://ramlist.infinityx.nl/ddr2/

Interesting that some of the Micron products are hand picked and some are not. I wondered what caused me to pay an extra 50 bucks per 2G module just to get the suffix "D" on the end of my model number. I don't know if that extra dough is worth it versus OCZ for example that isn't? I can get this memory to run without any memtest errors at 882mhz 4-4-4-8 1T but at 900mhz if produces errors at the usual spot that catches most memory problems, the dreaded test #5...so perhaps handpicking isn't the greatest thing!

Back to the dividers - can't report too much other than to confirm what I think Robilar alluded in the above quote in that if one doesn't use the oft quoted dividers, you run the risk of bottlenecks occuring outside of benches e.g. 15:16 etc

Edit: Looks like 895mhz 4-4-4-8 1T on the RAM is the max after several runs on memtest86. At 900 the machine seems rock solid but does produce memtest86 errors so obviously 1 error is 1 error too many and can't be used.


----------



## Robilar

Thats a solid list and its been posted a number times as an excellent reference tool.

882 at those timings with 1T is excellent and will bench very well mhw. I'd stay with that. I've been able to get my ram to run at 915 stable with similar timings as well (4-4-4-8 1T)

The D suffix on your memory is for Dominator. Its not the IC but the Dominator heatspreaders that relate to that suffix. You can get Corsair PC2-6400D Dominators (which there was a big stink about a couple of months back). They initally had micron IC's and then mid run Corsair changed them to (crappy) Promos IC's without notice to buyers. I got a set and returned them because of this issue.


----------



## t4ct1c47

I thought I'd point out something that isn't mentioned in the first post of this thread and I feel some members may find it important. Sometimes, depending on the main FSB set, you RAM will run lower than the value you set it to when in Unlinked mode.

For example, 1512FSB and 800Mhz on the RAM will actually make your RAM run at about 754Mhz. To get round this I simply kept setting my RAM from 801, 802, 803, 804, 805, 806, until finally at 807Mhz it showed my RAM actually running at my desired speed of 801Mhz.

I'm still looking into why Unlinked mode does this and weather its simply an issue with XMS2 DIMMs or just how the chipset handles the memory. I thought I'd oint out that at 1440FSB and 800 on the RAM, the RAM runs bang on 800Mhz. This is leads me to belive that it is more likely to be a chipset discrepencie.


----------



## Robilar

I haven't seen that in awhile and because I manually set ram speeds separately (as you did by trial and error), it becomes a non issue. You are right that it does crop up but manual adjustments easily resolve it.


----------



## alexisd

So far i have good results,when use unlinked.The only little problem is when i try the 1T.Don't let me boot.But is no a major issue as long the benches and my oc work fine.Even when is @ 2T.Here is some screens.


----------



## baldrick

Can I flash my BIOS to 1002 and my current build will still work fine?


----------



## alexisd

Yes you better if up date the bios.Remember to set everything in stock,before up date if not you may have some little problems.Nothing big but is better always avoid any,bump.Once you up date then go back and set the best setting's that work for you.


----------



## nik6600

Can someone please tell me what "ratios" are and what the best ratios are for overclocking..


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nik6600*


Can someone please tell me what "ratios" are and what the best ratios are for overclocking..


Ratios are dividers.And are used when your memory can't keep up with your fsb.Hope it help you a little.Here is need to read.Im lazy to type this morning.http://www.overclock.net/faqs/15091-...what-they.html


----------



## nik6600

Thanks alexisd..







Its all coming together now...


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mhw100*


I can get this memory to run without any memtest errors at 882mhz 4-4-4-8 1T but at 900mhz if produces errors at the usual spot that catches most memory problems, the dreaded test #5...so perhaps handpicking isn't the greatest thing!


Go ahead and boot at 4-4-4-8-1T @900Mhz and check your bandwidth (SiSoft Sandra).

Then try 4-5-4-8 1T or even 4-5-4-6 1T and measure bandwidth, it should be about the same.

Now run memtest86+ again, I bet it'll pass...

When you're done, start playing with Vdimm to minimize voltage. D9's seem to have a somewhat high mortality rate >2.2v.


----------



## ShakyJake

I just receive this board yesterday and got absolutely nowhere until I found this Overclocking Guide. Thanks a ton.

_However_, I am still having trouble overclocking my processor to the level it was previously at when I was running it on an ABIT AB9-Pro.

I have a Core2Duo E6300 that I have been running at 2.8GHz (400FSB) for the past couple of months on the ABIT AB9-Pro 965 board. The memory I have is the Corsair XMS PC6400 800MHz stuff -- just the low end memory, not the high-end Dominator series or anything. That is why I ran it at 2.8 since I got an even 1:1 memory ratio and just left the memory timings at auto.

Anyway, previous to finding the guide here, when I just plugged in the same values (for the most part) that were on the ABIT board, the ASUS would either not POST or freeze at the POST screen. After reading the guide, I followed the instructions I've gotten what appears to be a stable overclock at a 1500FSB. The problem is, I cannot go over this. As soon as I hit 1600+ (400FSB+) the system exhibits the same non-POST/freezing as before. The VTT voltage is maxed out as per the guide. The NB Voltage I set to 1.45...I've even bumped it up to 1.55 but I get no better results. I'm afraid to go any higher in fear of damaging something. Southbridge is at 1.55V as well. I've increased the CPU voltage up to 1.40V, but since I was previously running at 2.8 with a 1.32V I know my problem isn't CPU limited.

So I'm at a lost. Oh, and the memory is being ran unlinked and I keep it at 800MHz. Also, all memory timings are set to "Auto" since I am not overclocking the RAM, so I am guessing RAM can't be an issue since it's running at factory defaults (I assume anyway).

My power supply is an OCZ 520W unit. I noticed this board has an 8pin ATX connector, but it came with a cap covering 4pins. My power supply does NOT have an 8pin connector, just a 4pin. But from what I understand this is only necessary for quad-core processors.

Any clues as to what I can do would be appreciated. From reading about all the success stories, I am hoping it's just an issue of tweaking some value somewhere. I have a hard time believing that this board can't go beyond 375FSB.

Thanks.


----------



## baldrick

I'm following the guide but I cant find the HPET setting to disable, can someone please tell me where it is?


----------



## Robilar

Its in the power options


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShakyJake*


I just receive this board yesterday and got absolutely nowhere until I found this Overclocking Guide. Thanks a ton.

_However_, I am still having trouble overclocking my processor to the level it was previously at when I was running it on an ABIT AB9-Pro.

I have a Core2Duo E6300 that I have been running at 2.8GHz (400FSB) for the past couple of months on the ABIT AB9-Pro 965 board. The memory I have is the Corsair XMS PC6400 800MHz stuff -- just the low end memory, not the high-end Dominator series or anything. That is why I ran it at 2.8 since I got an even 1:1 memory ratio and just left the memory timings at auto.

Anyway, previous to finding the guide here, when I just plugged in the same values (for the most part) that were on the ABIT board, the ASUS would either not POST or freeze at the POST screen. After reading the guide, I followed the instructions I've gotten what appears to be a stable overclock at a 1500FSB. The problem is, I cannot go over this. As soon as I hit 1600+ (400FSB+) the system exhibits the same non-POST/freezing as before. The VTT voltage is maxed out as per the guide. The NB Voltage I set to 1.45...I've even bumped it up to 1.55 but I get no better results. I'm afraid to go any higher in fear of damaging something. Southbridge is at 1.55V as well. I've increased the CPU voltage up to 1.40V, but since I was previously running at 2.8 with a 1.32V I know my problem isn't CPU limited.

So I'm at a lost. Oh, and the memory is being ran unlinked and I keep it at 800MHz. Also, all memory timings are set to "Auto" since I am not overclocking the RAM, so I am guessing RAM can't be an issue since it's running at factory defaults (I assume anyway).

My power supply is an OCZ 520W unit. I noticed this board has an 8pin ATX connector, but it came with a cap covering 4pins. My power supply does NOT have an 8pin connector, just a 4pin. But from what I understand this is only necessary for quad-core processors.

Any clues as to what I can do would be appreciated. From reading about all the success stories, I am hoping it's just an issue of tweaking some value somewhere. I have a hard time believing that this board can't go beyond 375FSB.

Thanks.


Which bios version are you running?


----------



## baldrick

Thanks Robilar, also, can you or anyone else answer my question that I posted here:

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...300-vcore.html

its appropriate to this board

Thanks.


----------



## ShakyJake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Which bios version are you running?


Figures I'd forget to mention that. Before overclocking anything, I immediately flashed it to the latest revision - 1002.


----------



## Robilar

So you tried 7x400 FSB, and you have your ram set to unlinked?


----------



## ShakyJake

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
So you tried 7x400 FSB, and you have your ram set to unlinked?

It's set to unlinked. The values in the fields are "1600" for the FSB and "800" for the memory. Save and exit, bam either no POST or a freeze at the POST screen (when it lists CPU speed, memory count, but never gets to hard detection and what not).


----------



## Robilar

One thing you do have to do regarding your ram, is set your voltage to manufacturer specs manually. If you leave ram voltage on auto, it will run at around 1.89 or so which is too low. Even though you have it set to unlinked there is still a connection between the two bridges which seems to draw voltage. I had some oc issues until I went in and set my ram volts to manual. Go to the corsair site and find the recommended voltage and set it. It is probably 2.1 but double check. This may resolve your issue.


----------



## cognoscenti

try around 1633 etc, I seem to get better results with random odd numbers and occasionally you hit a wall where it won't post but by going even higher it leaps over it.

You should fill out your system specs in your profile.


----------



## ShakyJake

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
One thing you do have to do regarding your ram, is set your voltage to manufacturer specs manually. If you leave ram voltage on auto, it will run at around 1.89 or so which is too low. Even though you have it set to unlinked there is still a connection between the two bridges which seems to draw voltage. I had some oc issues until I went in and set my ram volts to manual. Go to the corsair site and find the recommended voltage and set it. It is probably 2.1 but double check. This may resolve your issue.

Actually, I did set it to 1.9V which is what, I believe, the manufacturer lists. I'll try bumping it up a bit more. I DID try 1550 FSB and had the same results. So as I approach 1600 and beyond, I get the freezing. 1500FSB and below, the system appears totally stable.

Have you guys heard of any examples of some boards just not able to do over 350'ish FSB? My time is limited, so I have not been able to look at all the prior posts in this thread.

Thanks.


----------



## SA3L

Is there a program like 3dmark for ram? Because i dont now so much about ram and wich settings i should use with my OCZ pc8500 sli-ready. So i can se if the settings are ok. Is 4-4-4-8 T1 good? maybe @900Mhz or something.


----------



## theGryphon

I'm sure you missed this one Cognoscenti. Would you care to help? Many thanks!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theGryphon* 
Hey Cognoscenti,
I checked your gallery out and I really like your rig. Very good job! I must say that I'm quite fascinated to see a moddrix







My ex-girlfriend should see you, lol

Anyway, I'm trying to plan a board design, so I have a couple questions if you don't mind:

In "photos_021", is the Thermalright SLI cooler bent?

If you used only a *single gpu at the south pci-e*, do you think the Thermalright SLI would fit at the *northbridge while angled north-west to south-east*? I'm concerned that the ram sticks may interfere...

I really appreciate it, thanks!


----------



## theGryphon

Does anyone know which cpu cooler is used in this board? It looks like the Thermalright 120 but it's not









I think I'll go with the Lian Li PC-A16B case. It is very customizable and looks nice. It's not very roomy but should provide enough space I think...


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuclearjock*


Go ahead and boot at 4-4-4-8-1T @900Mhz and check your bandwidth (SiSoft Sandra).

Then try 4-5-4-8 1T or even 4-5-4-6 1T and measure bandwidth, it should be about the same.

Now run memtest86+ again, I bet it'll pass...

When you're done, start playing with Vdimm to minimize voltage. D9's seem to have a somewhat high mortality rate >2.2v.


Thanks nuclearjock for the heads up, I'll give her a go. It's max in memtest is at 895 4-4-4-8 1T 2.1v (running at 2.16v) so I better turn it down given the expense of this stuff.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theGryphon*


Does anyone know which cpu cooler is used in this board? It looks like the Thermalright 120 but it's not









I think I'll go with the Lian Li PC-A16B case. It is very customizable and looks nice. It's not very roomy but should provide enough space I think...


Thats the new thermalright ultra 120 extreme. Best air cooler currently out.


----------



## theGryphon

Sorry Robilar, but it's really not. Observe the flat sides and different fin design. I think it's also shorter.

Thermalright Ultra120 Extreme:


----------



## Robilar

Sure looks like it if its not


----------



## ShakyJake

Well, I am starting to wonder if this board is just a dud. It REFUSES to do anything above a 1500FSB. I've tried 1550, 1633, 1650, 1700, 1800, 1900. I've increased the NB voltage up to 1.65V, memory to 2.10V, CPU up to 1.45V. Every damn time same result -- either no POST or it freezes immediately at the POST screen. At 1500FSB everything works peachy.

I even stepped down to the 0901 BIOS revision and it made no difference. It doesn't look like there's anything else left to adjust here. I KNOW the CPU can do 2.8GHz with ease. Does anyone think that my power supply only having a 4pin connector has anything to do with what's going on? Going to have to send this thing back to NewEgg soon if I can't get any results with this thing. It's a shame, really, because I really do like the board. But for whatever reason, I've never had any luck with ASUS boards and overclocking.


----------



## baldrick

Ok, I had tested my system at 1266 QFSB, I try to load up 1306 QFSB and no POST, so I switch it off, switch it back on and it says "WARNING FAILED SYSTEM BOOT.. GO TO SETUP TO CHECK SETTINGS" etc.

So I put my settings back to 1266 and am running at this fine atm. Here are the settings I currently have why is it unstable so soon?

Ghz: 2.21
Idle: 37/34
Load: 50/50 (is this high? tuniq tower fan is set to lowest)
Vcore: 1.35
NB: 1.4
SB: 1.5

I was also under the impressive my stepping was good too.


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuclearjock*


Go ahead and boot at 4-4-4-8-1T @900Mhz and check your bandwidth (SiSoft Sandra).

Then try 4-5-4-8 1T or even 4-5-4-6 1T and measure bandwidth, it should be about the same.

Now run memtest86+ again, I bet it'll pass...

When you're done, start playing with Vdimm to minimize voltage. D9's seem to have a somewhat high mortality rate >2.2v.


Gave her a go at your specs to no avail. I thought I was home free after one cycle without errors but thought I should let memtest continue...sure enough test 5 on the second run through picked up the failure. So, I think for now I will leave it at 832 4-4-4-8 1T. At 297 x 12 this gives me a 2:3 divider and a 3.56Ghz clock on a not so great air setup.

I've ordered the Ultra 120 Extreme. I've had it running easily at 3.6+ but without significant load so I need some better cooling for the Quad.


----------



## mhw100

Robilar, you say that by getting rid of the IDE optical drive and replacing it with a SATA you have improved your boot time. I thought that if you disable the "searching for device" the opticals don't have any effect on boot time? I was under the impression that having another SATA would in fact have the opposite effect i.e. increase boot time? How have I got this wrong?


----------



## Silviastud

I have all sata drives and once I disabled the ide scan my boot time went down. Just my personal experience.


----------



## USlatin

Hey guys, I got my second pair of HZ's for $110 so I don't have to keep thinking about when they'll disappear... I should be going to 64-bit soon too hopefully.

I just thought I'd post what Everest 3.8 shows as available memory when you add the 3rd and 4th sticks, and a pic of the full DIMMs:


----------



## alexisd

Nice,4 gig=


----------



## Silviastud

I think I am going to get another set of PC2-8000 this week coming up


----------



## Silviastud

OK I made my own thread about this and no one could help me it seems so I am going to post in here:

1. I can't get NVMonitor to work on my system. Attached is the screen shot. I have cleaned and reloaded all nvidia drivers several times. I have also uninstalled and reinstalled all of the nvidia control panels and tuners as well. Any thoughts?

2. Is it normal for an E6300 to top out with 1.4v? I can't get this bad boy past 3.42GHz to save my life. I just thought it strange being as I was under the impression you could push it further. The second screen is a picture of my current setup so if you see something I am missing let me know. Thanks!


----------



## ShakyJake

Okay, this board HAS to be bad. After playing with the settings for a while, it won't even POST at 1500FSB anymore which was working totally fine the night before. Even setting it to 1400 the system will start crashing in Windows. And all voltages and settings are *exactly the same* as when it was working last night.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ShakyJake* 
Well, I am starting to wonder if this board is just a dud. It REFUSES to do anything above a 1500FSB. I've tried 1550, 1633, 1650, 1700, 1800, 1900. I've increased the NB voltage up to 1.65V, memory to 2.10V, CPU up to 1.45V. Every damn time same result -- either no POST or it freezes immediately at the POST screen. At 1500FSB everything works peachy.

I even stepped down to the 0901 BIOS revision and it made no difference. It doesn't look like there's anything else left to adjust here. I KNOW the CPU can do 2.8GHz with ease. Does anyone think that my power supply only having a 4pin connector has anything to do with what's going on? Going to have to send this thing back to NewEgg soon if I can't get any results with this thing. It's a shame, really, because I really do like the board. But for whatever reason, I've never had any luck with ASUS boards and overclocking.


----------



## Silviastud

Have you tried out a different PSU? I'm not the most up to date person with PSUs, but if it was going bad I could see this being a symptom. Also I'm unsure how the 4 vs 8pin connect varies. What I do know is that it's the cpu power so I could also see that as an issue. 2Cents.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silviastud*


OK I made my own thread about this and no one could help me it seems so I am going to post in here:

1. I can't get NVMonitor to work on my system. Attached is the screen shot. I have cleaned and reloaded all nvidia drivers several times. I have also uninstalled and reinstalled all of the nvidia control panels and tuners as well. Any thoughts?

2. Is it normal for an E6300 to top out with 1.4v? I can't get this bad boy past 3.42GHz to save my life. I just thought it strange being as I was under the impression you could push it further. The second screen is a picture of my current setup so if you see something I am missing let me know. Thanks!


You up date the bios?That's odd that nvidia monitor not working.


----------



## Silviastud

1002 in the bios. I can't figure this out. Also none of the other nvidia control panels work either. I can access is the storage panel. UGH!


----------



## slehcim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Thats the new thermalright ultra 120 extreme. Best air cooler currently out.


speaking of the TR Ultra 120 Extreme, did you (or anyone for that matter) ever get one working and fitting on this board with the heatsinks on the NB/SB.


----------



## ShakyJake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silviastud*


Have you tried out a different PSU? I'm not the most up to date person with PSUs, but if it was going bad I could see this being a symptom. Also I'm unsure how the 4 vs 8pin connect varies. What I do know is that it's the cpu power so I could also see that as an issue. 2Cents.


Unfortunately, I don't have another (good) power supply laying around. And I hate to dump 150 bucks on a new one if that's not the problem. I've ordered a 4 to 8pin adapter, so we'll see if that helps.

This morning it started working fine again. Set to 1500FSB and bam, rebooted, booted into Windows and played some games with no issues. This is really bizarre.


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Silviastud* 
Have you tried out a different PSU? I'm not the most up to date person with PSUs, but if it was going bad I could see this being a symptom. Also I'm unsure how the 4 vs 8pin connect varies. What I do know is that it's the cpu power so I could also see that as an issue. 2Cents.

if you have two 4pin leads on your psu. Can both be plugged into the 8pin slot?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theGryphon*


I'm sure you missed this one Cognoscenti. Would you care to help? Many thanks!


My apologies, I do tend to fall in and out of this place rather quickly at times.

I slightly bent the cooler, yes, because it was touching at its default angle.

Very easy to change don't worry! Even my small hands bent it ok.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silviastud*


OK I made my own thread about this and no one could help me it seems so I am going to post in here:

1. I can't get NVMonitor to work on my system. Attached is the screen shot. I have cleaned and reloaded all nvidia drivers several times. I have also uninstalled and reinstalled all of the nvidia control panels and tuners as well. Any thoughts?

2. Is it normal for an E6300 to top out with 1.4v? I can't get this bad boy past 3.42GHz to save my life. I just thought it strange being as I was under the impression you could push it further. The second screen is a picture of my current setup so if you see something I am missing let me know. Thanks!



You do realise 3.4 is pretty good on that chip?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silviastud*


OK I made my own thread about this and no one could help me it seems so I am going to post in here:

1. I can't get NVMonitor to work on my system. Attached is the screen shot. I have cleaned and reloaded all nvidia drivers several times. I have also uninstalled and reinstalled all of the nvidia control panels and tuners as well. Any thoughts?

2. Is it normal for an E6300 to top out with 1.4v? I can't get this bad boy past 3.42GHz to save my life. I just thought it strange being as I was under the impression you could push it further. The second screen is a picture of my current setup so if you see something I am missing let me know. Thanks!



What version of ntune are you using? the 5.05 works but the newest revision from last month does not.

The ram and vcore matches the bios exactly.

For some reason the new ntune doesn;t work worth a damn with this board.


----------



## Digikid

excellent thread you got going here. IF I decide on this mobo I will DEFINATELY come here.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slehcim*


speaking of the TR Ultra 120 Extreme, did you (or anyone for that matter) ever get one working and fitting on this board with the heatsinks on the NB/SB.


It fits, I haven't done temp tests yet.


----------



## theGryphon

Hi everyone,
I've been thinking about an all-Thermalright cooling on the P5N32-e SLI. I'm talking about using only the TR heatsinks and everywhere!








After some serious research I've come up with the design below. In the picture everything is to scale. The heatsinks I used are:

1x Ultra120 Extreme for the CPU (green)
1x HR-03 Plus for 8800GTX (green)
2x HR-05 SLI for NB and SB (red)
1x HR-09-S for upper mosfet (red)
1x HR-09-U for left mosfet (red)

Everything is flush but with reasonable placement. Observe the 92x38 fan that pulls from the NB heatsink and blows on the VGA cooler. It's like a miracle how they fit so snug







I'm thinking about a low noise fan there, not a Vantec!

I would really like to have your opinions on this design. Do you think it's a good layout? Would the airflow be sufficient? One thing for sure, cable management will be like hell









I'm waiting for your comments. Thanks!


----------



## Digikid

I think that Thermalright should pay you commision for that...you are a walking, talking advertisement for them. LOL!!!!!!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theGryphon* 
Hi everyone,
I've been thinking about an all-Thermalright cooling on the P5N32-e SLI. I'm talking about using only the TR heatsinks and everywhere!








After some serious research I've come up with the design below. In the picture everything is to scale. The heatsinks I used are:

1x Ultra120 Extreme for the CPU (green)
1x HR-03 Plus for 8800GTX (green)
2x HR-05 SLI for NB and SB (red)
1x HR-09-S for upper mosfet (red)
1x HR-09-U for left mosfet (red)

Everything is flush but with reasonable placement. Observe the 92x38 fan that pulls from the NB heatsink and blows on the VGA cooler. It's like a miracle how they fit so snug







I'm thinking about a low noise fan there, not a Vantec!

I would really like to have your opinions on this design. Do you think it's a good layout? Would the airflow sufficient? One thing for sure, cable management will be like hell









I'm waiting for your comments. Thanks!

Nice chart.

I can't determine from the chart but I assume you are going to use the bottom pci-e slot for your graphics solution as you can't use the middle one.

Your layout prevents you from adding a second card for sli. As much as I like and advocate this board, The asus p5b premium, asus commando, and asus p5b plus all get better overclocks than my board does. If you are not intending to go sli, get the asus p5b plus (I picked one up friday for another system in my home. with an e6700, i was able to get it running for an hour orthos at 530 FSB). *Its far cheaper*.

The Asus P5N32-E is hands down the best 680i board and the best SLI board currently available but considering your design invalidates SLI, go for a non sli board that will get better overclocks.


----------



## baldrick

ok so I've hit a rather strange wall.

the following setup is 9 hours orthos stable @ 50 degrees load

Speed: 3.19ghz
FSB: 467
Idle: 34/31
Load: 50/50
vCore: 1.333
NB: 1.4
SB: 1.5

Now any decrease of vcore (I want it to be a bit cooler) and it takes after around 5mins in Orthos, and any increase of FSB and it fails in 1min in Orthos.

What else can I do besides increases the vcore which I dont want to do?


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Silviastud* 
Is it normal for an E6300 to top out with 1.4v? I can't get this bad boy past 3.42GHz to save my life. I just thought it strange being as I was under the impression you could push it further. The second screen is a picture of my current setup so if you see something I am missing let me know. Thanks!

1.4 gave me all that 1.5 had to offer, then again I am topped at 1799 and can't get 1800 to post! Very weird... Now a 3.42GHz is your normal GREAT OC... as in you got a good one and you would have to be uber lucky to get one that would go higher... that's what I've gathered... what's your cooling?


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *baldrick* 
ok so I've hit a rather strange wall.

the following setup is 9 hours orthos stable @ 50 degrees load

Speed: 3.19ghz
FSB: 467
Idle: 34/31
Load: 50/50
vCore: 1.333
NB: 1.4
SB: 1.5

Now any decrease of vcore (I want it to be a bit cooler) and it takes after around 5mins in Orthos, and any increase of FSB and it fails in 1min in Orthos.

What else can I do besides increases the vcore which I dont want to do?

get H2O/Phase...


----------



## USlatin

Happy Page 100!!!


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Happy Page 100!!!



















































Yeah,still no sticky,why?


----------



## theGryphon

Thanks Robilar!

Yes, I intend to use a 8800GTX at the south PCI-e slot for this design. I appreciate your advice about board selection but the thing is I don't want to rule out my possibility to use an SLI layout. HR-03-plus is practically useless with SLI anyway, and HR-05-sli is also impossible to fit at the NB.

I will most probably not use SLI at first build but after a year or so (when 8800GTX prices become laughable compared to now) I may just throw in another one. Do you see what I mean?

In general I believe SLI is not the best for bang-for-buck (unless you SLI the best card out there) but when it comes to upgrading, it is definitely very handy.

Then again, I'm not sure if it's a good decision to invest in an expensive board for a future opprtunity







. Wow, I remembered my undergrad finance class!









Finally, yeah, congrats Robilar (and everyone) on the 100th page!


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Yeah,still no sticky,why?


they don't love us...









nahh... they r just jealous cause they ain't got one


----------



## Robilar

I requested a sticky from the admin. I think they dont like Canadians!

Anyhow, its our thread. I've learned as much from the various contributors as I've put into it


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


they don't love us...









nahh... they r just jealous cause they ain't got one










In my opinion this guide help,alot of members to get a nice and stable oc.And is good to keep in, a good place for future reference.To all the new owners of this board.I remember posting in the 2nd page and we already in the 100.Mean it's been a good guide for all of us.
And [Robilar deserve the credit for this guide.And all the positive posters in here aswell.Once again Thank's.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theGryphon*


Thanks Robilar!

Yes, I intend to use a 8800GTX at the south PCI-e slot for this design. I appreciate your advice about board selection but the thing is I don't want to rule out my possibility to use an SLI layout. HR-03-plus is practically useless with SLI anyway, and HR-05-sli is also impossible to fit at the NB.

I will most probably not use SLI at first build but after a year or so (when 8800GTX prices become laughable compared to now) I may just throw in another one. Do you see what I mean?

In general I believe SLI is not the best for bang-for-buck (unless you SLI the best card out there) but when it comes to upgrading, it is definitely very handy.

Then again, I'm not sure if it's a good decision to invest in an expensive board for a future opprtunity







. Wow, I remembered my undergrad finance class!









Finally, yeah, congrats Robilar (and everyone) on the 100th page!










I understand your logic. I personally am a big fan of sli and have had no less than 4 sets of sli cards in the last couple of years. (Ironic the only set that gave me issues was my pair of 8800gtx. I confirmed that it was driver issues though and will likely pick up another shortly).

Having the option to add a second 8800gtx when they drop in price is a good idea. I went that route when I had a pair of 7900gtx (which i sold individually to members of this forum to get the 8800).


----------



## alexisd

Im a big fan of SLI too.I use before the 7950gt in sli and volt mod.And the scores was great and gamming too.But once the 8800gtx hit the market i step up for only 1.Maybe some day go back into the sli.I really like the benches with a sli set up.


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Im a big fan of SLI too.I use before the 7950gt in sli and volt mod.And the scores was great and gamming too.But once the 8800gtx hit the market i step up for only 1.Maybe some day go back into the sli.I really like the benches with a sli set up.


I hope you don't buy SLI simply for benchies....


----------



## smokeyclocker

I forgot to add my audigy 2 sound card and my extra hard drive. My overclock of 3.2ghz is now not stable









do you think it might be my power supply? antec smartpower 400watts

Here is my specs:
EVGA 8800GTS 320mb
p5n32-e sli
sata hard drive
ide hard drive
Audigy 2
DVD-RW
Geil 2gb ultra c4
E6420
thermalright ultra 120 extreme

do i need a higher power supply>?


----------



## ShakyJake

You definitely need a higher wattage power supply. Although possible, it's unknown whether the power supply is it fault for your instability.

I've had no luck overclocking with the P5N32-E SLI. Can't go over 1500FSB (no POST) and what I thought was a stable OC with a 1500FSB wasn't -- intermittent crashes. Board is totally stable at stock speeds, though, so I don't think there is anything wrong with the board itself. Other than, possibly, getting a lemon when it comes to overclocking. I decided to just sell it at a loss and get an ABIT AB9 Quad. It's weird, but _every_ single ASUS board I've ever owned has been worthless at overclocking. It's like I'm cursed or something.

Definitely get a beefier P/S, though. That could be _your_ problem.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker*


I forgot to add my audigy 2 sound card and my extra hard drive. My overclock of 3.2ghz is now not stable









do you think it might be my power supply? antec smartpower 400watts

Here is my specs:
EVGA 8800GTS 320mb
p5n32-e sli
sata hard drive
ide hard drive
Audigy 2
DVD-RW
Geil 2gb ultra c4
E6420
thermalright ultra 120 extreme

do i need a higher power supply>?


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShakyJake*


You definitely need a higher wattage power supply. Although possible, it's unknown whether the power supply is it fault for your instability.

I've had no luck overclocking with the P5N32-E SLI. Can't go over 1500FSB (no POST) and what I thought was a stable OC with a 1500FSB wasn't -- intermittent crashes. Board is totally stable at stock speeds, though, so I don't think there is anything wrong with the board itself. Other than, possibly, getting a lemon when it comes to overclocking. I decided to just sell it at a loss and get an ABIT AB9 Quad. It's weird, but _every_ single ASUS board I've ever owned has been worthless at overclocking. It's like I'm cursed or something.

Definitely get a beefier P/S, though. That could be _your_ problem.



yea its strange for the past couple of days I have had a stable overclock but ever since i heard a crackling sound from my psu i haven't had a stable overclock.


----------



## PapiChulo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
No thats what it costs here each time i buy a board here.
p5n32-E costs just over $300 here.

Thats why its easy to have top hardware in the US and Canada.

Try doing it here!

Robilar and Cognoscenti

I've tried to get similar results you have have on your E6600 systems. The best performance I get stable is [email protected]@9Multi. I am using the p5n32-e sli with most of the spects. Robilar laid out in his guide (great guide, many thanks) except for: Corsair 8500cs5, 1 BFG 8800GTX, Antec 900 case, Zalman 9700, (2) Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II (north/south). My power settings are:
v.core 1.53125, mem 2.25, NB 1.4, SB 1.55, CPU VTT 1.55. Bios has been updated.

These are bios settings results:
@1490 FSB - Mem auto - No Post
@1485 FSB - mem auto - Failed Otheros Test within 5min - settings below ran Otheros for 4hrs no problems - highest temp 56 C.
@1480 FSB -mem auto - CPUMARK crashes/os reboot within 5min
@1475 FSB -mem auto - CPUMARK crashes/os reboot within 5min
@1470 FSB - Stable - CPUMARK06 results score 11176 CPU-Z rates FSB 1466.7

I have a Thermaltake PSU toughpower 750.

Any ideas to get better performance under air?


----------



## mhw100

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mhw100* 
Robilar, you say that by getting rid of the IDE optical drive and replacing it with a SATA you have improved your boot time. I thought that if you disable the "searching for device" the opticals don't have any effect on boot time? I was under the impression that having another SATA would in fact have the opposite effect i.e. increase boot time if every so slightly? How have I got this wrong?

As a follow up I can't seem to find any reference to boot up times being reduced. Did you time the difference Robilar.


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

Hi i have a similar system to Robilar, and followed his guide.

Asus P5N32-E SLi nForce 680 (Socket 775) PCI-Express DDR2 Motherboard
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 "LGA775 Conroe" 2.40GHz (1066FSB)
Zalman CNPS9500-AT Aero Flower (Socket 775) CPU Cooler
OCZ 2GB (2 x 1GB) PC2-8500 1066MHz SLI-Ready Edition Dual Channel DDR2 
BFG 800W UK/PFC Approved PSU

I followed Robilars guide and added the Two thermaltake coolers to my board, after removing the stock heatpipes.

I used the unlinked method and clocked my FSB to 1400 and my memory to 1066. Giving me a 3.35 Ghz overclock on my CPU, also using the 1002 bios.

The problem is i dont see any improvement at all in the benchmarks, should i? i am using 3dmark 06.

Does anyone have a similar system who can give me some help here? i have tried setting the timings manually at 5-5-5-15 and 4-4-4-8 but system then seems to become unstable and wont boot at times unless i hard power off and turn back, on at which point it tells me i should revert to defaults and reboot. I also tried setting the Memory Voltage to 2.1v but that didnt seem to help, what would really help me is for someone to take a look at my specs and give me some input.

(PICS ATTACHED BELOW)

I am willing to pay the person who gives me best results say $30.

Thanks in advance.

Biggsy
(Overclocking nooblet)


----------



## Silviastud

Rob just so you know I've had to up my motherboard voltages to get to 1995. I can't get 2000 just yet but I'm working on it. It will post but crashes at the window's loading screen. He's is what I am running below.


----------



## USlatin

nice copper layout over you mobo! I love the look of copper and the Zalaman...

It's also nice to finally see someone that cut the pipes!
Question, why did you leave so much of it? were you hoping to avoid damaging the fins?


----------



## Silviastud

Whelp I can't figure out these voltage settings... My 3.49GHz wont get stable even with 1.6vcore. It will load into windows perfect, but if I even drop the SB voltage one notch windows wont load.

With that happening I am lead to believe it's my motherboard voltages and not my cvore. Should I really need to be increasing my SB over 1.7 to get 1990-1995 stable? I can leave all voltages where you describe in your guide and be stable at 1960 24/7 with 1.4vcore.

If I increase to 1965 I can't post. If I increase ONLY the SB I can post at 1970 which I am stressing right now with 1.6 SB and am 10 minutes in. I needed 1.75 SB to load windows at 1995 but couldn't get stable with 1.6vcore, 1.5 VHT, 1.65 NB. I think I am just going to chill out with 3.447GHz if this config is stable.

I'm afraid to run those other voltages that high. If you have any ideas feel free to share them.


----------



## draxlondon

Hi,

I'm pretty sure I've looked through all *101* pages and not seen what I'm about to ask for, but shoot me down if I've just missed it









I'm about to buy a P5N32-E SLI and plan on replacing the NB/SB coolers with a Noctua NC-U6 (NB) and a Thermalright HR-05 SLI (SB) unless anyone's had any bad experience with either of these.

A couple of questions first though:

1) I'll be putting a Zalman 9700 on the CPU. Will the airflow from this be enough to sufficiently cool the NC-U6 without additional fans?

2) Can I mount the HR-05 perpendicular to the direction of the graphics card? I'll try and illustrate this with a crappy pic:










That way I don't take up any of the middle expansion card area. I'm just not sure if the graphics card is too long to allow this. If no-one's done this but someone has an 8800GTX and could take the time to measure the distance from the southbridge (either side) to the end of the graphics card, I'd *really* appreciate it.

Thanks for all the useful info on the thread.

Stephen


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


nice copper layout over you mobo! I love the look of copper and the Zalaman...

It's also nice to finally see someone that cut the pipes!
Question, why did you leave so much of it? were you hoping to avoid damaging the fins?


It terrified me to cut the pipes but i thought what the hell, dunno why i left a bit on but it wont hurt will it?

Thanks


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapiChulo*


Robilar and Cognoscenti

I've tried to get similar results you have have on your E6600 systems. The best performance I get stable is [email protected]@9Multi. I am using the p5n32-e sli with most of the spects. Robilar laid out in his guide (great guide, many thanks) except for: Corsair 8500cs5, 1 BFG 8800GTX, Antec 900 case, Zalman 9700, (2) Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II (north/south). My power settings are:
v.core 1.53125, mem 2.25, NB 1.4, SB 1.55, CPU VTT 1.55. Bios has been updated.

These are bios settings results:
@1490 FSB - Mem auto - No Post
@1485 FSB - mem auto - Failed Otheros Test within 5min - settings below ran Otheros for 4hrs no problems - highest temp 56 C.
@1480 FSB -mem auto - CPUMARK crashes/os reboot within 5min 
@1475 FSB -mem auto - CPUMARK crashes/os reboot within 5min 
@1470 FSB - Stable - CPUMARK06 results score 11176 CPU-Z rates FSB 1466.7

I have a Thermaltake PSU toughpower 750.

Any ideas to get better performance under air?



You shouldnt really need vcore to be that high at 1.53 ,drop it to around 1.43 to 1.48 max
I would raise the NB to around 1.5 for more stability at higher overclocks.

Try memory unlinked and tap in FSB of 1601 to see if this jumps over the FSB strap.

Failing that it may be that your chip simply is not a high overclocker.
You can always try and buy one from Tankguys etc who can get hold of higher rated weeks.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *draxlondon*


1) I'll be putting a Zalman 9700 on the CPU. Will the airflow from this be enough to sufficiently cool the NC-U6 without additional fans?


This is debatable, the Zalman provides pretty good air flow in the case around the cpu but other members here have used the mosfets to help out with heat dissipation.
I had trouble with my first p5n32 board after removing the stock cooling and using aftermarket but I can't say for certain it was due to this.

I'm getting as high as I want to go now without the aftermarket cooling so I dont think its always necessary. Maybe only contributes to extending the life of board by running lower temps.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *draxlondon*


2) Can I mount the HR-05 perpendicular to the direction of the graphics card? I'll try and illustrate this with a crappy pic:


From memory ,no.
I think the cards were too long and wouldnt allow it but it was awhile ago now since I had it.
I had it sideways on there and it managed to fit between 2 x 8800 cards.










Quote:



Originally Posted by *draxlondon*


That way I don't take up any of the middle expansion card area. I'm just not sure if the graphics card is too long to allow this. If no-one's done this but someone has an 8800GTX and could take the time to measure the distance from the southbridge (either side) to the end of the graphics card, I'd *really* appreciate it.

Thanks for all the useful info on the thread.

Stephen


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *overclockerbiggsy*


Hi i have a similar system to Robilar, and followed his guide.

Asus P5N32-E SLi nForce 680 (Socket 775) PCI-Express DDR2 Motherboard
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 "LGA775 Conroe" 2.40GHz (1066FSB)
Zalman CNPS9500-AT Aero Flower (Socket 775) CPU Cooler
OCZ 2GB (2 x 1GB) PC2-8500 1066MHz SLI-Ready Edition Dual Channel DDR2 
BFG 800W UK/PFC Approved PSU

I followed Robilars guide and added the Two thermaltake coolers to my board, after removing the stock heatpipes.

I used the unlinked method and clocked my FSB to 1400 and my memory to 1066. Giving me a 3.35 Ghz overclock on my CPU, also using the 1002 bios.

The problem is i dont see any improvement at all in the benchmarks, should i? i am using 3dmark 06.

Does anyone have a similar system who can give me some help here? i have tried setting the timings manually at 5-5-5-15 and 4-4-4-8 but system then seems to become unstable and wont boot at times unless i hard power off and turn back, on at which point it tells me i should revert to defaults and reboot. I also tried setting the Memory Voltage to 2.1v but that didnt seem to help, what would really help me is for someone to take a look at my specs and give me some input.

(PICS ATTACHED BELOW)

I am willing to pay the person who gives me best results say $30.

Thanks in advance.

Biggsy
(Overclocking nooblet)


You will definately see an increase in most benchmarks as your cpu at 3.35 is computing alot quicker than it normally does at stock 2.4ghz.

Look in your 3dmark06 results.
Go to the breakdown where you see the individual components that make up your score.
The cpu score will definately be higher than what you get at 2.4.

Like I said to the other poster your particular chip _may _be topping out and not like going higher.
there is no guarantee with these setups that they will all reach say 3.6 or 3.8ghz.

Look at my post 1011 and try those settings and see if it helps anything.


----------



## draxlondon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
From memory ,no.
I think the cards were too long and wouldnt allow it but it was awhile ago now since I had it.
I had it sideways on there and it managed to fit between 2 x 8800 cards.










It looks like your HR-05 is bent over slightly. Did you bend it? It looks vertical rather than angled in all the other images I've seen. Are you using the HR-05 or the HR-05 SLI?

Would you recommend this cooler for the southbridge having had to install and use it or go for something else? The reason I was looking at having it where I had it in my diagram was to try and keep it fanless by using the airflow from my 100mm bottom entry fan on the front of my case.

I'm slightly worried the Thermaltakes mentioned earlier will be whiney because of the small fans. It looks like you've got one on your northbridge. Are they audible? Would you choose one for the southbridge?

Thanks for your help.


----------



## {core2duo}werd

i just want to report that on my system, when i left the LDT setting on 5x i could boot out of the bios but after that it wouldn't post again. after trying many different things i tried lowering it to 4x and now everything works great. this cought my by surprise because in your guide you said to leave it at 5x. so anyways if you can't post after the first boot out of the bios then try lowering the LDT multi.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *draxlondon* 
It looks like your HR-05 is bent over slightly. Did you bend it? It looks vertical rather than angled in all the other images I've seen. Are you using the HR-05 or the HR-05 SLI?

Would you recommend this cooler for the southbridge having had to install and use it or go for something else? The reason I was looking at having it where I had it in my diagram was to try and keep it fanless by using the airflow from my 100mm bottom entry fan on the front of my case.

I'm slightly worried the Thermaltakes mentioned earlier will be whiney because of the small fans. It looks like you've got one on your northbridge. Are they audible? Would you choose one for the southbridge?

Thanks for your help.

I did bend it slightly so it would fit.

Yes its the sli version.

No the little fan on the thermaltakes dont seem to be noisy.
My 'quiet' zalman is noisier


----------



## draxlondon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
No the little fan on the thermaltakes dont seem to be noisy.
My 'quiet' zalman is noisier

Thanks. I'll probably use one of the Thermaltakes instead of the HR-05 SLI then. I'll have to think about the northbridge.

I'm allergic to fan noise, to the extent that I'm thinking of using sound deadening fabric on the inside of my case


----------



## Mhill2029

Cognoscenti uses onboard sound.....shocking


----------



## cognoscenti

lol the card with the board is ok -for my ears anyway!

I just blew £770/$1500 on the qx6800 this afternoon.

That will be fun to play with.


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
lol the card with the board is ok -for my ears anyway!

I just blew Â£770/$1500 on the qx6800 this afternoon.

That will be fun to play with.

Pls nooooooooo, why the QX6800 that's damn silly money...should of got the Q6600 instead.


----------



## cognoscenti

its not the flagship


----------



## Mhill2029

But i could go out and buy a Q6600 and do just the same speed, the QX6700 and QX6800 are a complete waste of money. Why hun Why!? lol


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mhill2029* 
But i could go out and buy a Q6600 and do just the same speed, the QX6700 and QX6800 are a complete waste of money. Why hun Why!? lol

Mhill, would it be possible for you to write here the complate list of adjustments to make from default settings in the bios please, as i have basically the same system as you and need some serious help getting to 3.4

Thanks VERYVERY much in advance

biggsy


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
You will definately see an increase in most benchmarks as your cpu at 3.35 is computing alot quicker than it normally does at stock 2.4ghz.

Look in your 3dmark06 results.
Go to the breakdown where you see the individual components that make up your score.
The cpu score will definately be higher than what you get at 2.4.

Like I said to the other poster your particular chip _may_ be topping out and not like going higher.
there is no guarantee with these setups that they will all reach say 3.6 or 3.8ghz.

Look at my post 1011 and try those settings and see if it helps anything.


Thanks cognoscenti i tried the settings but there seems to be a lot of missing info from that last post and to avoid going through the last 100 pages of this thread to find them all out, could i possibly ask you to make a list of ALL changes that need to be made from the default settings. I would be happy getting to a stable 3.4 (im not too greedy lol)

Its kinda creepy coz i have almost the same system as you completely, even down to the zalman, i just have a different psu, could you maybe send me your overclocking profile please or is that too much to ask? I am only getting just over 10,000 in 4dmark 06 and i feel like crying

It would help me out so much.

Thanks

Biggsy


----------



## cognoscenti

the qx6700 and qx6800 have the unlocked multi and to be homest im going to pop it in and leave it there until at least christmas so it suits me fine.


----------



## nuclearjock

Cogno,

Your 9700 won't cool that furnace, but it will keep you warm for Christmas.


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

Sweet, looks like I'll be upgrading soon and I don't even have this build done yet lol


----------



## cognoscenti

If i leave it at 2.93 -3.1 it will.


----------



## theGryphon

Any info on August 26 prices?

Btw, Cogno, congrats for your new baby! Damn this didn't sound right, lol


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
If i leave it at 2.93 -3.1 it will.

Yea, right...


----------



## Mhill2029

The QX6800 is a total ass to OC due to it's huge heat output at stock, unless your on a serious watercooling solution or cascade you won't get much above 3Ghz imo.

But looking at the way you have been doing lately, you may proove me wrong.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuclearjock* 
Yea, right...

O you doubters!


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
O you doubters!


No, I don't doubt your 9700 will cool that die at stock speeds.

It's you running at stock speeds I find amusing.

I'm waiting for the 1333/45 thingies myself..


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

hey cognoscenti, did u see my post http://www.overclock.net/2146212-post1024.html

i also PM'ed you i really need some help and i would be very greatfull and be willing to buy you a thermaltake spirit 2 cooler if u can help me, i have almost same system as you so it wont take u long.

Ta Duck

Biggsy


----------



## cognoscenti

hi i can't go through the bios and note down all the settings and whether they are off or on or otherwise.
Robilar posted the settings you need to use at the start of the guide.
Anything after that is just little tweaks i have tried myself.


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


hi i can't go through the bios and note down all the settings and whether they are off or on or otherwise.
Robilar posted the settings you need to use at the start of the guide.
Anything after that is just little tweaks i have tried myself.



OK i get it.

thanks


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

The thing is, as amazing as it is, it doesnt tell me what numbers to enter in, which may seem easy to someone who has already done it, but not so easy for a noob.

I find it shocking that all you have learnt from this thread and you seem to be unwilling to help out others who were once in your situation.

All i am asking for is the numbers, i.e. FSB, Voltages, Ram timings etc and anything else not specified in robilar's guide my system is identical to your so to help me all you have to do is tell me the numbers you are using. Which would take you approximatley 1 minute to do.

Otherwise could someone else with a similar system to mine help out please?

Thanks


----------



## spinoza

Personally I don't think it's a good idea to mess around with overclock settings unless you know and understand what those numbers mean. If it's just the overclock you need/want without the effort required then may I suggest a pre-built system from company X? That way you get exacty what you want without any effort whatsoever.


----------



## {core2duo}werd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spinoza*


Personally I don't think it's a good idea to mess around with overclock settings unless you know and understand what those numbers mean. If it's just the overclock you need/want without the effort required then may I suggest a pre-built system from company X? That way you get exacty what you want without any effort whatsoever.


lol noooo never a pre built! that is what this site is for is learning!

the problem is that you can't just copy someone elses settings in the bios and have it work. it is different for almost everyone, so you have to try yourself to find out. first of all go into the hardware monitor and then voltage monitor and find out what your voltages are at now, then you up the FSB by a small increment (4 or 8 because every four QDR FSB Mhz = 1 Regular FSB Mhz thus the Quad data rate) and when you have trouble going any higher you start to raise those voltages till you can get it stable.


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

i think everyone here at one point was a noob at overclocking, and i know i can crack it but i would just like some guidance, of course i could learn everything from scratch which would take a lot of time, but why not just find someone with the exact same system as me (there seems to be a few) and ask for the settings which have been tried and tested.


----------



## {core2duo}werd

because tried and tested on your system is not the same thing as tried and tested on hers. especially with her system as high as hers is because her processor may need more or less voltage to get to that speed and your processor may not even be capable of that speed.


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


lol the card with the board is ok -for my ears anyway!

I just blew Â£770/$1500 on the qx6800 this afternoon.

That will be fun to play with.


I will be interested in what you can raise the FSB to. Most ppl can't get it above 330 with the QX6700 on any Asus 680i product. Perhaps it will be different with the QX6800 although according to Robilar and others, there is virtually no difference to have a higher fsb/low multi versus a low fsb/high multi...and may be preferential.


----------



## {core2duo}werd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *overclockerbiggsy*


i think everyone here at one point was a noob at overclocking, and i know i can crack it but i would just like some guidance, of course i could learn everything from scratch which would take a lot of time, but why not just find someone with the exact same system as me (there seems to be a few) and ask for the settings which have been tried and tested.


alright if you want some settings to try then try this. first go into the SLI ready memory thing and set that to expert, then change your vcore to 1.3, then in the FSB area put 1350 then in the memory area put 800.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mhw100*


I will be interested in what you can raise the FSB to. Most ppl can't get it above 330 with the QX6700 on any Asus 680i product. Perhaps it will be different with the QX6800 although according to Robilar and others, there is virtually no difference to have a higher fsb/low multi versus a low fsb/high multi...and may be preferential.


yeah i am stuck around there with my q6600, but not for long because i'm getting water cooling.


----------



## TheAlienwareGamer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *overclockerbiggsy*


i think everyone here at one point was a noob at overclocking, and i know i can crack it but i would just like some guidance, of course i could learn everything from scratch which would take a lot of time, but why not just find someone with the exact same system as me (there seems to be a few) and ask for the settings which have been tried and tested.


Spec wise there are systems similiar but may and may not require extra tweaking,vcore to become stable. Robilars guide gives us a starting point where to start at but if youre not familiar as to what is what I wouldn't suggest overclocking your setup until you are. Anyone that has used this board can give you there voltage settings and fsb however they may or may not work for your setup. We are here to help but don't rush, not everyone is here all day and yu don't want to set something wrong and blow your setup


----------



## cognoscenti

*Spoilt *, here I caved in and turned off my pc and took some pictures!


----------



## {core2duo}werd

yeah you can go ahead and try those settings, but i wouldn't be surprised if they didn't work for you.

Edit: OMG cog that was your 666th post!!!!!


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

thanks for that, is that with your current system in your sig? (the E6600)

Thanks again


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

also cog, can you clarify what graphics setup you have coz on your sig it says 8800 GTX sli but on the top 30 charts it says GTS,

Thanks


----------



## Mhill2029

Coggy does that SLI memory feature actually do anything? I didn't notice a thing when i used it. And according to Robilar (i think) it was recommended to be disabled.


----------



## mhw100

Quote:


Originally Posted by *{core2duo}werd* 
yeah i am stuck around there with my q6600, but not for long because i'm getting water cooling.

I'm not sure that will help since most Asus boards won't even post past 330. According to EVGA (who unlike Asus RMAed their boards) it wasn't a heat issue, it was a hard wired problem with the mobo itself that only effected quads on the 680i platform. Later version EVGA boards now don't have the quad wall.

Having said that, you might get lucky as some have and maybe water will be the salvation...who knows. There is also a soldering and/or pencil mod solution that might help get it up to just over 360 but I've never seen a confirmed before and after test so I'm a little skeptical. Not to mention if you screw up the mod you're hosed for a RMA.

Hope if works out for you.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *overclockerbiggsy* 
also cog, can you clarify what graphics setup you have coz on your sig it says 8800 GTX sli but on the top 30 charts it says GTS,

Thanks

Thats BigVals error on the spreadsheet due to the fact I used to run SLI GTS's.
He's either unaware I changed cards or it was a copy and paste error.

I have had single GTS 640mb, SLI GTS640mb and single GTX , SLI GTX.
The highest scores were obviously with the SLI GTX.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mhill2029* 
Coggy does that SLI memory feature actually do anything? I didn't notice a thing when i used it. And according to Robilar (i think) it was recommended to be disabled.

Well I can't say for certain without isolating it and running test comparisons but the way it is works pretty well for me.


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

cool, tried your settings and i got past the bios fine and started to boot, but as soon as windows started to load my pc reset, very strange







as i am running exactly the same ram, cpu and board as you, any ideas, once i set my fsb to 1468 it booted ok, am i doing something wrong?

Also can i ask why u dont set ur memory to 1066 coz isnt it made for that speed?

thanks again

Noob


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

also which is the best forceware and nforce platform drivers to use?

Sorry for all these noobish questions guys!


----------



## mhw100

I don't believe you should use any chipset drivers other than those that from the Asus CD or website i.e. it isn't like other boards e.g. EVGA that use the nVidia reference design. Asus puts there own 'spin' on it and I've read and heard that if you use the nVidia drivers you're in for a heap of trouble.

I use the most current nVidia display drivers obtained directly from their website. Depending on what you are doing you're likely fine with Windows or those found on the vcard CD. I'm running 6 monitors and they always seem to make multi-monitor support better hence the download.


----------



## {core2duo}werd

i just use the drivers that come with windows for my motherboard.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *overclockerbiggsy* 
also which is the best forceware and nforce platform drivers to use?

Sorry for all these noobish questions guys!

the latest from the nvidia site.

Never had a problem with the nvidias on the asus board.


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

cool thanks what about forceware? any input on what version there?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *overclockerbiggsy* 
cool thanks what about forceware? any input on what version there?


http://www.nvidia.com/content/license/location_0605.asp?

nForce 680i SLI/680i LT SLI - Windows XP (32-Bit)

Version: 9.53
Release Date: November 8, 2006
WHQL Certified


----------



## Robilar

I use the same forceware drivers from the nvidia site as well. I had several issues with the drivers set on the asus cd back in december when I got the board.


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

thanks, i just got a 3dmark 06 score of 10820, running at 3.3ghz with 2 x 8800gts oc2 320mb cards, is that acceptable, does anyone else have to hand similar benchmarks for me to compare against?

thanks


----------



## mhw100

Robilar - did you time boot time differences on that SATA vs IDE DVD drive?


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

HAHAHAHAHAHA OMGOMGOMG HAHAHAHAHA

Just got 14057 in 3dmark 06 HAHAHAHAHAH I LOVE THIS PLACE

http://service.futuremark.com/orb/re...=0&UID=9270943

Nuff Luv

Biggsy


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *overclockerbiggsy*


I find it shocking that all you have learnt from this thread and you seem to be unwilling to help out others who were once in your situation.
Thanks



Quote:



Originally Posted by *overclockerbiggsy*


HAHAHAHAHAHA OMGOMGOMG HAHAHAHAHA

Just got 14057 in 3dmark 06 HAHAHAHAHAH I LOVE THIS PLACE

http://service.futuremark.com/orb/re...=0&UID=9270943

Nuff Luv

Biggsy



What a difference a few hours make.

I hope you're going to change your system title...


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

yep updated my sib, all i did to fix it was remove everything nvidia and reinstall the latest forceware and nforce drivers from nvidia website and it worked!!!

May i recommend if anyone is having strangely low benchmarks and everything else seems ok, just remove everything nvidia from ur pc and reinstall.

Still cant get it to 3.6 tho when i boot it crashes at windows but tbh i am happy now, im not greedy.


----------



## cognoscenti

no problem...


----------



## {core2duo}werd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *overclockerbiggsy*


HAHAHAHAHAHA OMGOMGOMG HAHAHAHAHA

Just got 14057 in 3dmark 06 HAHAHAHAHAH I LOVE THIS PLACE

http://service.futuremark.com/orb/re...=0&UID=9270943

Nuff Luv

Biggsy


LOL nice









Can we see a compare link?


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *{core2duo}werd*


LOL nice









Can we see a compare link?


compare it with what, and how do i do it?


----------



## {core2duo}werd

you have to have a login in the futuremark orb (it's free just sign up), then you go to product manager after you submit it, then you click the published checkbox, hit update, and copy the compare link. it just lets people compare their stats with yours like this one.
http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=1951912


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mhw100* 
Robilar - did you time boot time differences on that SATA vs IDE DVD drive?

I did actually. I'll dig up the results and post back


----------



## USlatin

Sound initiates 50% of all you feel while watching a movie... (not an over-statement). While gaming I'd say quite a bit comes from your own input and the frustrations or feelings of pride from your performance... However, sound continues to match the visuals...







.

On-Board audio might sound great (it really does sound ok), and might even send the signals to the right channels in a 5.1 setup to want you of a Kraut coming up behind you, but a good sound card will deliver much clearer signals to these channels and will allow you to hear more sound effects, literally, that were otherwise getting lost in the mix... this not only gives you an edge, but the added sound quality will also heighten your emotions while gaming/watching a DVD/listening to music...

There is a reason why audiophiles would spend $5000 on a CD player and why the audio equipment on a feature often costs about the same as the camera rig if you don't count specialized camera support stuff like cranes dollys and such to get the camera in weird positions (all easily handled by wireless lavalier microphones). Oh! And why they pay millions of dollars for original songs...









just my 2 cents


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


I did actually. I'll dig up the results and post back


Sad Git......Just kidding lol


----------



## cognoscenti

ok


----------



## USlatin

http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards...-original.html


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

hey cog, is there a reason you dont run your memory at 1066 like it designed to be?

ta


----------



## draxlondon

Has anyone tried replacing *just* the northbridge cooler?

I was just looking at the pics of the board and thinking that since the heatpipe sections aren't joined in any way, could you not leave the existing southbridge setup so as to not interfere with any of the slot space?

Has anyone put a temperature probe specifically on the southbridge (or is it reported in the BIOS)? All the reports I've read complain about the northbridge getting too hot but don't mention the MCP/southbridge.

Is the FSB overclock reflected all the way down to the MCP/Southbridge or is it running at the PCI-E rate (that has been locked at the correct speed)? I'm not sure as to the exact details of how it works...


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *draxlondon* 
Has anyone tried replacing *just* the northbridge cooler?

I was just looking at the pics of the board and thinking that since the heatpipe sections aren't joined in any way, could you not leave the existing southbridge setup so as to not interfere with any of the slot space?

Has anyone put a temperature probe specifically on the southbridge (or is it reported in the BIOS)? All the reports I've read complain about the northbridge getting too hot but don't mention the MCP/southbridge.

Is the FSB overclock reflected all the way down to the MCP/Southbridge or is it running at the PCI-E rate (that has been locked at the correct speed)? I'm not sure as to the exact details of how it works...


I did the nb first and after that with a thermal probe when overclocking, saw temps on the sb in the 60C range. Especially important is the fact that the sb is often covered or blocked from airflow by the top graphics card (and even worse with SLI). If you have two graphics cards and a sound card, the sb gets 0 airflow. Active cooling becomes a necessity.


----------



## draxlondon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I did the nb first and after that with a thermal probe when overclocking, saw temps on the sb in the 60C range. Especially important is the fact that the sb is often covered or blocked from airflow by the top graphics card (and even worse with SLI). If you have two graphics cards and a sound card, the sb gets 0 airflow. Active cooling becomes a necessity.

Thanks. That's exactly what I wanted to know.


----------



## mba2dna

I've built at least 5 rigs on my own without major issue. But this time.... Built a rig almost a month without completion yet. May be I am very bad luck this time...

I bought the mobo, cpu, psu brand new and got raptors, sound card, ram from 2nd hand market. It took me 2 weeks to gather essential parts and built the system a month ago.

Very happy that the system could boot when it was first assembled naked (one 8800GTX,2G ram and my old Enermax 600W). When installing the windows, the system could not post after reset (a process in window setup). I suspect it was the mobo problem as I tried swap another 8800GTX, another 2G ram, another psu, it could not post as well. Took the mobo to the shop and tested, no problem. OK, it should be cpu problem then. However, the office hour of Intel agent is exactly the same as mine, such that I did not have time to go for RMA. I bought a 2nd hand E6300 as workaround next day after work. OK, plugged the cpu it and the mobo could post. So, I went to sleep.

I bought the rest of the part next day after work - a 1000W psu (it was out of stock before) and prepared for the SLI connection. Rush back home and connect everything. Power on the new psu... oh my god, it screamed better than my girlfriend. I checked everything alright except that rpm sensor did not give voltage. The psu was actually functioning, it just alerted me the fan (sensor) did not work! It screamed everytime the pc reset until I pressed that red button at the psu. Took the psu to the shop next day and exchanged a new one. The new psu worked fine at my rig and intended to continue the setup next day...

Next day, I was happy again..... until I install the forceware. After finished the installation, it required reboot, but could not post again. Swap everything again, should not be the problem of RAM, psu, video card card. This time it should be cpu or mobo problem? Borrow another E6420 from my friend next day and plug to my mobo, it could not boot. So mobo was dead this time.

Next day lunch time, I took the mobo to Asus service center, they tested the mobo and agreed to give me a new one. However, they did not have stock, and I have to wait for a week.

I got the new mobo a week later together with the rma E6420. Reconnect everything, the process seems smooth - it post'ed. Then I have time to complete the windows, drivers installation with few benchmark s/w. Tweaked the system about a week and finalize few settings. Another day I decided to put all the parts into the case, spent me about 2 hours (the case is small for 2 super long video cards). Connect the ac plug, it could not post... took out everything and power on again naked, no problem. Put them in the case again, no post. Took them out again, post! I don't know why.. should not be the case the the screw of cpu heatsink touch the case, this should not create the problem. Anyway, I sticked a tape underneath the mobo. This time it posted. I then ran the ortho 1 days to test the stability and observed the system temperature when they were in the case. Fine, idle at 34C and full load at 53C (room temp about 28C). Happy again...

Yesterday I tried to oc my 8800gtx pair. They could go up to 630/2000 without artifact. But I could only gain 200 in 3dmark06. I did not know why. I would investigate this later as it was quite late. Return all the settings to default. Before went to sleep, I checked email and surfed for few minutes. The system sudden hang! Could not post after reset! No time to check why as it was 4:00am.... time to bed (to be continued)


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *draxlondon* 
Has anyone tried replacing *just* the northbridge cooler?

I'm useing a Nocuta NU-06 on my NorthBridge and the stock cooler on the SouthBridge. As far as I'm concerned, the Northbridge is the main chip that needs uprated cooling as it sees the biggest increase in vCore as you raise FSB. There's very little need to increase the Southbridge vCore and I'm able to run 3.6Ghz 24/7 without any problems. However, I do have a chassis fan blowing air over the area where the SouthBridge is located to improve the cooling.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *draxlondon*
Is the FSB overclock reflected all the way down to the MCP/Southbridge or is it running at the PCI-E rate (that has been locked at the correct speed)? I'm not sure as to the exact details of how it works...

The stock vCore for the Southbridge is 1.50v and I currently have it running at 1.55v with my FSB at 1600Mhz. The NothBridge is running at 1.55v aswell, though its stock vCore is only 1.25v.


----------



## draxlondon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


I'm useing a Nocuta NU-06 on my NorthBridge and the stock cooler on the SouthBridge. As far as I'm concerned, the Northbridge is the main chip that needs uprated cooling as it sees the biggest increase in vCore as you raise FSB. There's very little need to increase the Southbridge vCore and I'm able to run 3.6Ghz 24/7 without any problems. However, I do have a chassis fan blowing air over the area where the SouthBridge is located to improve the cooling.

The stock vCore for the Southbridge is 1.50v and I currently have it running at 1.55v with my FSB at 1600Mhz. The NothBridge is running at 1.55v aswell, though its stock vCore is only 1.25v.


Thanks. I think I'll probably start out with a Noctua on the NB (do you have a fan on it or is it just being cooled by the airflow spilling from the CPU cooler/exhaust fan?) and leave the SB alone for a while.

Did you put any little heatsinks onto the VRMs or have you left them bare? Could you give me a guestimate as to their size? I was planning on going to the local electronics store and just having a look for small cheapy sinks rather than ordering anything specific but I need to know how big I'm looking for.

Thank you for the information.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *draxlondon*


Thanks. I think I'll probably start out with a Noctua on the NB (do you have a fan on it or is it just being cooled by the airflow spilling from the CPU cooler/exhaust fan?) and leave the SB alone for a while.


It's possible to attach a small fan to the Noctua but I don't use one. I'm replaceing the window on my chassis side panel with some mesh so I can permanently secure a fan to it to blow over the Southbrdge.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *draxlondon*


Did you put any little heatsinks onto the VRMs or have you left them bare?


I'm using the same heatsinks to cool my MOSFET's as Robilar, the Swifttech MC-21. I strongly recomment purchaseing a set of coolers for the MOSFET's as I hear cognoscenti killed her last board by leaveing them bare.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *draxlondon*


Could you give me a guestimate as to their size?


You'll want four that are each about 1.5 cm long and 1cm wide to cool the eight MOSFET's. Eight if you end up replaceing the Southbridge cooler too.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mba2dna* 
I've built at least 5 rigs on my own without major issue. But this time.... Built a rig almost a month without completion yet. May be I am very bad luck this time...

I bought the mobo, cpu, psu brand new and got raptors, sound card, ram from 2nd hand market. It took me 2 weeks to gather essential parts and built the system a month ago.

Very happy that the system could boot when it was first assembled naked (one 8800GTX,2G ram and my old Enermax 600W). When installing the windows, the system could not post after reset (a process in window setup). I suspect it was the mobo problem as I tried swap another 8800GTX, another 2G ram, another psu, it could not post as well. Took the mobo to the shop and tested, no problem. OK, it should be cpu problem then. However, the office hour of Intel agent is exactly the same as mine, such that I did not have time to go for RMA. I bought a 2nd hand E6300 as workaround next day after work. OK, plugged the cpu it and the mobo could post. So, I went to sleep.

I bought the rest of the part next day after work - a 1000W psu (it was out of stock before) and prepared for the SLI connection. Rush back home and connect everything. Power on the new psu... oh my god, it screamed better than my girlfriend. I checked everything alright except that rpm sensor did not give voltage. The psu was actually functioning, it just alerted me the fan (sensor) did not work! It screamed everytime the pc reset until I pressed that red button at the psu. Took the psu to the shop next day and exchanged a new one. The new psu worked fine at my rig and intended to continue the setup next day...

Next day, I was happy again..... until I install the forceware. After finished the installation, it required reboot, but could not post again. Swap everything again, should not be the problem of RAM, psu, video card card. This time it should be cpu or mobo problem? Borrow another E6420 from my friend next day and plug to my mobo, it could not boot. So mobo was dead this time.

Next day lunch time, I took the mobo to Asus service center, they tested the mobo and agreed to give me a new one. However, they did not have stock, and I have to wait for a week.

I got the new mobo a week later together with the rma E6420. Reconnect everything, the process seems smooth - it post'ed. Then I have time to complete the windows, drivers installation with few benchmark s/w. Tweaked the system about a week and finalize few settings. Another day I decided to put all the parts into the case, spent me about 2 hours (the case is small for 2 super long video cards). Connect the ac plug, it could not post... took out everything and power on again naked, no problem. Put them in the case again, no post. Took them out again, post! I don't know why.. should not be the case the the screw of cpu heatsink touch the case, this should not create the problem. Anyway, I sticked a tape underneath the mobo. This time it posted. I then ran the ortho 1 days to test the stability and observed the system temperature when they were in the case. Fine, idle at 34C and full load at 53C (room temp about 28C). Happy again...

Yesterday I tried to oc my 8800gtx pair. They could go up to 630/2000 without artifact. But I could only gain 200 in 3dmark06. I did not know why. I would investigate this later as it was quite late. Return all the settings to default. Before went to sleep, I checked email and surfed for few minutes. The system sudden hang! Could not post after reset! No time to check why as it was 4:00am.... time to bed (to be continued)

I've had this kind of adventure before as well but not with this board. You have had so many separate issues, I can't figure out what the common thread would be. The chance that you have had two bad boards is very unlikely. Is there a common element to the various build configs?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *draxlondon* 
Thanks. I think I'll probably start out with a Noctua on the NB (do you have a fan on it or is it just being cooled by the airflow spilling from the CPU cooler/exhaust fan?) and leave the SB alone for a while.

Did you put any little heatsinks onto the VRMs or have you left them bare? Could you give me a guestimate as to their size? I was planning on going to the local electronics store and just having a look for small cheapy sinks rather than ordering anything specific but I need to know how big I'm looking for.

Thank you for the information.

Get two sets of the Swiftech MCP21 sinks. They fit exactly to the VRM's. About 30 pages back in this thread I posted pics


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

hi again guys, do you think the cut down radiator thingies on my board will cool it ok or will i need to install some specialist cooling on them, if so which do i use and are they hard to install? (pic attached)

Also i just put my finger on the extreme spirit 2 cooler next to my cpu (northbridge is it?) and it almost burnt my finger, is this normal? In pc probe it has a red light on my NB core saying 1.52v is too much, but its set to auto so im wondering what to do?

Thanks guys??!!!!!


----------



## draxlondon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Get two sets of the Swiftech MCP21 sinks. They fit exactly to the VRM's. About 30 pages back in this thread I posted pics


I was looking into the sinks since I live in the UK and they're reasonably difficult to find with a £ sign next to them. Then I looked at Maplin (UK Radio Shack equivalent) and they sell every shape and size of anodized aluminium sinks for about 50p each - perfect


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *draxlondon*


I was looking into the sinks since I live in the UK and they're reasonably difficult to find with a Â£ sign next to them. The I looked at Maplin (UK Radio Shack equivalent) and they sell every shape and size of anodized aluminium sinks for about 50p each - perfect










why not just chop off the nb and sb cooling from ur stock coolers, i did works great!







there goes the warranty lol


----------



## draxlondon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *overclockerbiggsy*


why not just chop off the nb and sb cooling from ur stock coolers, i did works great!







there goes the warranty lol


That's kinda the issue









I'm actually slightly concerned about the sinks being adhered to the VRMs since it'll be difficult to get them off without damaging them. Obviously I hope not have to RMA the board but...


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *overclockerbiggsy*


hi again guys, do you think the cut down radiator thingies on my board will cool it ok or will i need to install some specialist cooling on them, if so which do i use and are they hard to install? (pic attached)


I guess you could always cut of the small radiator on the stock Northbridge cooler to keep your MOSFET's cool. Its going to look mighty suspect if you ever have to RMA your board though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *overclockerbiggsy*


Also i just put my finger on the extreme spirit 2 cooler next to my cpu (northbridge is it?) and it almost burnt my finger, is this normal? In pc probe it has a red light on my NB core saying 1.52v is too much, but its set to auto so im wondering what to do?


The Northbridge only needs up to 1.55v when the system is running at 1600FSB. If AUTO is setting it to 1.52v at default FSB then I would highly recommend setting your vCore to 1.3v in the BIOS so that it runs at 1.25v which is the Northbridge's normal vCore.


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *draxlondon* 
That's kinda the issue









I'm actually slightly concerned about the sinks being adhered to the VRMs since it'll be difficult to get them off without damaging them. Obviously I hope not have to RMA the board but...

I pulled both off with no force is not adhered in any way dude. Just pull em off and chop the radiators stick those back on and add Extreme spirit 2's to the bridges like in my pic.

Plus if u kill the board thru overclocking i doubt u will get a replacement anyways.

I have to admit i was scared too before i took mine off but after id done it i dunno what i was worried about tbh it was very easy and i never did anything like this before those mini heatsinks robilar used dont look anywhere as good as the stock radiators.


----------



## jibber

Hi

Firstly great thread, has been very informative.

Have managed to get 3.42Ghz from my E6600, vcore 1.475v. Memory is at 952Mhz 4-4-4-12 2T, Memory voltage 2.15v.

Its managed 12 hours on Orthos max temp 53'C. Is the temp ok was hoping to keep it under 50'C so might wind back to about 3.2Mhz.

www.specialtech.co.uk for the UK guys looking for Extreme spirit II and MC-21's
__________________


----------



## Ruski1982

can you change the +5v, 12v, 3.3v in this bios?

Just got the system setup and cant find it in there (1002 bios)

Also,

Whats a good util to see NB/SB temps?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jibber* 
Hi

Firstly great thread, has been very informative.

Have managed to get 3.42Mhz from my E6600, vcore 1.475v. Memory is at 952Mhz 4-4-4-12 2T, Memory voltage 2.15v.

Its managed 12 hours on Orthos max temp 53'C. Is the temp ok was hoping to keep it under 50'C so might wind back to about 3.2Mhz.

www.specialtech.co.uk for the UK guys looking for Extreme spirit II and MC-21's
__________________


53C is fine.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ruski1982*


can you change the +5v, 12v, 3.3v in this bios?

Just got the system setup and cant find it in there (1002 bios)


Those are PSU rails, you can't change them in any motherboard BIOS, you can only monitor them.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ruski1982*


Also,

Whats a good util to see NB/SB temps?


You'll need to purchase something along the lines of a fan controller or temperature monitor for one of your drive bays. These devices have sensors on them that you can attach to components inside your system. I do not know of any software to monitor the temperatures of the motherboard chipsets as I don't believe that they have their own sensors built in.


----------



## mba2dna

The common element for those separate incidents was ... me.

Yes, you are right. It turn out that my CPU is dead (surely not fried as I ran it below 1.5V). Has to go to the Intel agent again today and hope the I could have a new one upfront.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mba2dna* 
The common element for those separate incidents was ... me.

Yes, you are right. It turn out that my CPU is dead (surely not fried as I ran it below 1.5V). Has to go to the Intel agent again today and hope the I could have a new one upfront.

Been there myself









Look me up when you get rebuilt. I'll give you a hand getting a good oc.


----------



## Yraen

nm


----------



## mba2dna

I do use HR5 for NB and nothing for mosfets on 2 mobo, will this be the reason the it killed mobo and cpu? I better to put back the stock heatpipe and oc the setup just a little bit to around 3G.


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

Just ordered me a Antec 900 Case, man they look awesome, vistually the same as having an open frame!!!!!!!!!

Check out the statistics, this should help me kick the clock up a little

http://www.tweaknews.net/reviews/ant...red/index6.php


----------



## spinoza

Hey everyone.

Just got my RMA for the motherboard back.
Setup minimal system (CPU,RAM,Vid)
Tried to boot and I get long, continuous beeps ad nauseum.
Suspected RAM.
Tried the blue as well as the white slots to no avail.
Boots fine with one stick of RAM in any slot.
The other stick does not boot at all in any slot.
Increased mem voltage to 2.1
Upgraded bios to 1002
Same results.
Tried installing Windows with the one stick and installer fails copying files to the hard drive. (this may or may not be a separate issue)
I just don't trust the memory.

Just wanted a second opinion before sending back the RAM and picking up more today.

Thanks!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spinoza* 
Hey everyone.

Just got my RMA for the motherboard back.
Setup minimal system (CPU,RAM,Vid)
Tried to boot and I get long, continuous beeps ad nauseum.
Suspected RAM.
Tried the blue as well as the white slots to no avail.
Boots fine with one stick of RAM in any slot.
The other stick does not boot at all in any slot.
Increased mem voltage to 2.1
Upgraded bios to 1002
Same results.
Tried installing Windows with the one stick and installer fails copying files to the hard drive. (this may or may not be a separate issue)
I just don't trust the memory.

Just wanted a second opinion before sending back the RAM and picking up more today.

Thanks!

Thats a ram error code for certain. You've had some bad luck!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *overclockerbiggsy* 
Just ordered me a Antec 900 Case, man they look awesome, vistually the same as having an open frame!!!!!!!!!

Check out the statistics, this should help me kick the clock up a little

http://www.tweaknews.net/reviews/ant...red/index6.php



















I had an antec 900 prior to my current stacker 830. It is a great aircooling case. A couple of things though.

Because the power supply is on the bottom and this isn't a full tower (its a large mid but smaller than the stacker or armor) you will find that with an sli setup, your bottom video card is very close to the power supply. the good news is that your bfg power supply has its fan on the end rather the top (actually the bottom) which should prevent an airflow deadzone between the gpu and power supply fans.

It will be pretty cramped in that case. I had serious issues putting a pair of 8800gtx in it. I am fairly certain you will not be able to use the internal 120mm fan bracket for additional cooling of the gpu area.

Wiring is very challenging and as the bfg is not a modular power supply you will have a large excess of wires.

with that said, it does provide excellent airflow performance (and I like its look as well)


----------



## spinoza

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Thats a ram error code for certain. You've had some bad luck!

I know. But maybe the Senators will win tonight and I'll consider that auspicious (even though I'm a Leafs fan







)

I'll go grab some RAM today and I will post back.


----------



## Robilar

Leafs Rule!! (ok not really but being a Torontonian, I am required to believe that)


----------



## Mad_Handlez89

I just ordered one of these









Should be here on tueday, E6600, Corsair 6400 on friday


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mad_Handlez89*


I just ordered one of these









Should be here on tueday, E6600, Corsair 6400 on friday










Welcome to the club.


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

these E6600 rock for overclocking


----------



## jessipps

Hey everybody this is my first post here and i figure i'd use it to give my 2 cents on the Thermalright HR-09u mosfet coolers. They're pretty easy to install but 1 side is slightly to long for this board and the other is slightly to short. Overall not too bad and they look cool but i'd prefer a bit more coverage.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jessipps*


Hey everybody this is my first post here and i figure i'd use it to give my 2 cents on the Thermalright HR-09u mosfet coolers. They're pretty easy to install but 1 side is slightly to long for this board and the other is slightly to short. Overall not too bad and they look cool but i'd prefer a bit more coverage.


Lets see some pics! Also price and where you got them and I'll add them to the guide.


----------



## jessipps

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Lets see some pics! Also price and where you got them and I'll add them to the guide.


Got them at Coolerguys http://coolerguys.com/trhr09.html about $21. each i'll post some better pics soon.


----------



## nuclearjock

Cheapo NB cooling.

40mmx40mm fan and 2 632x1" nylon screws (~$5.00)

Better than nothing, 10 minutes.


----------



## jessipps

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spinoza*


Hey everyone.

Just got my RMA for the motherboard back. 
Setup minimal system (CPU,RAM,Vid)
Tried to boot and I get long, continuous beeps ad nauseum.
Suspected RAM.
Tried the blue as well as the white slots to no avail.
Boots fine with one stick of RAM in any slot.
The other stick does not boot at all in any slot.
Increased mem voltage to 2.1
Upgraded bios to 1002
Same results.
Tried installing Windows with the one stick and installer fails copying files to the hard drive. (this may or may not be a separate issue)
I just don't trust the memory.

Just wanted a second opinion before sending back the RAM and picking up more today.

Thanks!


I had a similar problem with what appears to be the same ram, RMA'd it and haven't had a problem yet.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuclearjock*


Cheapo NB cooling.

40mmx40mm fan and 2 632x1" nylon screws (~$5.00)

Better than nothing, 10 minutes.











Similar concept is this pic (not mine i went for the thermaltake coolers) 2nd pic is my setup. You spent all that money on sli graphics and couldn't shell out $40 for decent chipset cooling? You might want to check you sb temps with a probe. Under the two gpu (I had a similar set up with two 8800gtx) its probably running close to 60C


----------



## Mad_Handlez89

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Welcome to the club.












I changed my RAM choise and went with the 2Gb GeIL 6400

No Issues with this board? IS THERE?!?!


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:



Originally Posted by *overclockerbiggsy*


Just ordered me a Antec 900 Case, man they look awesome, vistually the same as having an open frame!!!!!!!!!

Check out the statistics, this should help me kick the clock up a little

http://www.tweaknews.net/reviews/ant...red/index6.php




















I've read some bad thing about this case. While the cooling is good (depending on what you have in it), cabling is a nightmare. I'm in the market for a new case (thinking about the LIAN LI PC-V2000APLUSII $$$), let me know how it works out

Thanks


----------



## drmartin48106

Go WINGS! (Really, though I'm bias being a Michigander)


----------



## spinoza

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spinoza*


Hey everyone.

Just got my RMA for the motherboard back. 
Setup minimal system (CPU,RAM,Vid)
Tried to boot and I get long, continuous beeps ad nauseum.
Suspected RAM.
Tried the blue as well as the white slots to no avail.
Boots fine with one stick of RAM in any slot.
The other stick does not boot at all in any slot.
Increased mem voltage to 2.1
Upgraded bios to 1002
Same results.
Tried installing Windows with the one stick and installer fails copying files to the hard drive. (this may or may not be a separate issue)
I just don't trust the memory.

Just wanted a second opinion before sending back the RAM and picking up more today.

Thanks!



Alright.

I went out and got me some new RAM.
I decided to live a little and came away with the OCZ PC2 8500 Reaper Series. 5-5-5-15. Very interesting pipes on the top side of these things.

Booted up.
Upped the voltage to 2.3.
Got the beep I was looking for.
And I'm off to the races.

Considering what a horror this build has been I'm happy just to get this far. So for the time being I'm going to monitor the temps and establish some baselines before I move ahead.

I will post some pics and numbers in the morrow.









Robilar, I thought the game was tonight but it's tomorrow. Go Sens!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


I've read some bad thing about this case. While the cooling is good (depending on what you have in it), cabling is a nightmare. I'm in the market for a new case (thinking about the LIAN LI PC-V2000APLUSII $$$), let me know how it works out

Thanks


What is your budget on a case? I also commented in similar fashion about the antec 900 earlier. I had the case for two days before returning it. Cabling and cramped space for a pair of 8800gtx was my main issue. (also the fans are loud on even medium settings)


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spinoza*


Alright.

I went out and got me some new RAM.
I decided to live a little and came away with the OCZ PC2 8500 Reaper Series. 5-5-5-15. Very interesting pipes on the top side of these things.

Booted up.
Upped the voltage to 2.3.
Got the beep I was looking for.
And I'm off to the races.

Considering what a horror this build has been I'm happy just to get this far. So for the time being I'm going to monitor the temps and establish some baselines before I move ahead.

I will post some pics and numbers in the morrow.









Robilar, I thought the game was tonight but it's tomorrow. Go Sens!


Thats some nice ram. Same IC's as the OCZ 8500 I'm using. You can hit 1066 easily with it if you desire although tight timings at 1T benches better.


----------



## mba2dna

Why I said my CPU has problem yesterday, because the mobo could run with my 2nd hand E6300. I don't have time to rma the faulty E6420 as there is some urgent matter in the office. Never mind, I could play around with this E6300. I put back the stock heatpipe as I said. It was so strange that when I turn on the PC, it could not post. Killed another CPU as well? Anyway, I resit the cpu again and no luck to bring it works. I changed back the suspected dead E6420. As change the Geminii is very time consuming, I just pick the stock HSF for test. Surprisingly it could boot. Then tried with E6300, it could boot as well. Tried to use Geminii, no boot. Could not think about why a HSF could cause the problem. I am quite sure I know how to install geminii as I could have no problem in many installations previously.

With the stock HSF and heatpipe, I could only have 2.9G with the E6420, before, I could have 3.4G with the same bios setting. 62C for full load. E6300 could only push up to 2.8G. I don't know whether the HSF and heatpipe matters, or the mobo or CPU has problem. Anyway, can't rma the mobo as it could run at stock speed.

Run 3Dmark06 to see how worst the situation is. Single card scored 117xx, previous run was 105xx. More than 1000 marks increase with slower clock, this drive me crazy. Windows boots superfast.

I will get a ultra120 extreme today, the shop just have stock yesterday. No more geminii in my system.


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Similar concept is this pic (not mine i went for the thermaltake coolers) 2nd pic is my setup. You spent all that money on sli graphics and couldn't shell out $40 for decent chipset cooling? You might want to check you sb temps with a probe. Under the two gpu (I had a similar set up with two 8800gtx) its probably running close to 60C


Hey rob,

Temp. soln. Too lazy to pull the board now, about to change cooling at which time I'll pull the board and go through my "list" of things I want to do whilst the board is out.

NB and SB cooling are on the list..


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


What is your budget on a case? I also commented in similar fashion about the antec 900 earlier. I had the case for two days before returning it. Cabling and cramped space for a pair of 8800gtx was my main issue. (also the fans are loud on even medium settings)


Sense Iâ€™m building a system from scratch (my old one is to old is dying and beyond upgrading) price is up in the air. Iâ€™m hopping to keep it around $1500 total. I will be adding additional cooling as time goes on. This case would be the most I would spend bit I like the separate compartments and the 1000 series is tight in ps room. Man I with there was a showcase/store I could go to so I could look as casesâ€¦ everything else you can spec but cases are a not only a matter of function but stile as well. My boss just build an amd sli machine (thus the bug) using the coolmaster case you now have. While a mess-load of fans/airflow I prefer channeling air then just more. Not a dig just an observation. Plus I like to look inside.

Any suggestions on cases (or components) is always welcome,

Derek


----------



## drmartin48106

I could list my thought on components for everyone to comment on? Will be springing the price on the wife after she returns from vacation


----------



## cognoscenti

good idea.


----------



## {core2duo}werd

is it worth watercooling the north and southbridges? i have heard that it isn't but this board seems to have a heat issue.


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


I've read some bad thing about this case. While the cooling is good (depending on what you have in it), cabling is a nightmare. I'm in the market for a new case (thinking about the LIAN LI PC-V2000APLUSII $$$), let me know how it works out

Thanks



Cabling was fine, i can see how ppl could have problems tho, but take ur time and its good, the built in cable ties help and allthough u cant really tell in the pic the cables are pretty much pushed right back to the plate so they dont block the airflow at all apart from the mobo power cable which sticks out a bit but not enough to block the airflow.

If u dont have a modular psu like me u can stuff all the extra unused cables underneath the bottom fan enclosure which doesnt effect airflow at all, and hides them perfectly.

There was a space to mount an internal 120mm fan inline with the front-top fan but wastn sure it would fit with the graphics card beign right nwext to it so left it off, i might have a go later at fitting it but it will be tight, the graphics card at the bottom now has more airflow than with a normal case coz the fan hangs over the psu so gets air direct form the bottom-front fan.

Overall, the CPU had dropped 13 degrees C from my previous case which was an asus vento 3600 and had also good airflow, and i still havent fitted the side fan yet. Not sure whether to have it flowing in or out.....

PICS ATTACHED


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *{core2duo}werd*


is it worth watercooling the north and southbridges? i have heard that it isn't but this board seems to have a heat issue.


Yeah i agree, the extreme spirit 2 on my SB when iu touch it seems just above room temp, but the one on the NB almost burns my finger if i hold it for too long, i remounted my nb cooler today tho and rotated it a little im hoping it gives better results.


----------



## alexisd

As long you don't have cables, on top of the mobo you fine.Look good.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *{core2duo}werd*


is it worth watercooling the north and southbridges? i have heard that it isn't but this board seems to have a heat issue.


The NB on this board apparently can reach 100c !









I think it would be worthwhile doing it.


----------



## {core2duo}werd

then what about the mosfets? what do you use to cool those? you wouldn't watercool them would you? i have seen some pics of people who watercool the north and southbridges and they use dinky little stick on heatsinks but i see these on newegg and they look like they would do a good job, but do you need it?


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *{core2duo}werd*


then what about the mosfets? what do you use to cool those? you wouldn't watercool them would you? i have seen some pics of people who watercool the north and southbridges and they use dinky little stick on heatsinks but i see these on newegg and they look like they would do a good job, but do you need it?


Well if they came with heatsinks on as stock i would say yeah, i just chopped the radiator thingies off the stock copper pipes and used those, look better and look like they give a much better cooling.


----------



## drmartin48106

Thanks for the info and the pics. Still up in the air on caes (it will be a few weeks befor I make a purchases)


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
good idea.

Not sure if you meant listing my machine or waiting to drop the bomb but here it goesâ€¦
New system:
•Intel 6600
•Asus P5N32-E Sli
•OCZ PC2-8500 (was looking for the right mem based on the above which lead me to this site/forum)
•Zalman 9700 (not sure which one)
•Zalman ZM-MFC2 Multi Fan Controller (later purchase)
•2 x XFX PVT71PUDP3 GeForce 7900GS
•2 x Raptors ?
•HIPER (HPU-4S730-MS) 730W Power Supply
•LIAN LI PC-V2000APLUSII

Feel free to make suggestions!


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
good idea.

Not sure if you meant listing my machine or waiting to drop the bomb but here it goesâ€¦
New system:
•Intel 6600
•Asus P5N32-E Sli
•OCZ PC2-8500 (was looking for the right mem based on the above which lead me to this site/forum)
•Zalman 9700 (not sure which one)
•Zalman ZM-MFC2 Multi Fan Controller (later purchase)
•2 x XFX PVT71PUDP3 GeForce 7900GS
•2 x Raptors ?
•HIPER (HPU-4S730-MS) 730W Power Supply
•LIAN LI PC-V2000APLUSII

Feel free to make suggestions!


----------



## Robilar

Thats a fine build the ocz 8500 sli ram has been tested specifically with the 680i boards and gives excellent results.

The rest of your build is fine except i would recommend an 8600gt rather than 2 7900gs and then add a second later for sli. more value for the money


----------



## drmartin48106

I was debating that. Some coworkers with sli rigs went that rout and said that it was harder to find a matching gpu after the fact. My graphic needs are minimal. This is sad, but I was going sli for the coolness factor. Plus there's the spouse factor of "I thought you bought a new computer!". I put a few question out there about ram, but did not get a response so I look at was being done by others and there results. I'm looking to get about 3.5 GHz after I add some additional cooling. Perhaps I will get the bug and try to beat the 4 GHz mark







I'm grateful for all input.


----------



## drmartin48106

Then again the XFX (PVT84JUDD3) 8600GT 256MB is only $10 more per card? I'm have used nvidia many (many) years back and it was a pain getting drivers to I turned the ATI and have been using it ever since. This is the first nvidia card in a long time and coworkers mentioned that I should go with the x900 series over any other for is is the more mature in the series as well as to stay away from the 100-500 & 800 series. Does that hold any water?


----------



## alexisd

Finally decide to up date to the 1002 bios.And lapped my cpu would see if any change.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


•2 x XFX PVT71PUDP3 GeForce 7900GS












You'd be better off going for a single 8800GTS 320MB/640MB over 7900GS 256MB SLi.


----------



## drmartin48106

How would a single 8800GTS 320MB (640 is too much $) would compare to 8600GT 256MB in SLI?


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


How would a single 8800GTS 320MB (640 is too much $) would compare to 8600GT 256MB in SLI?


From looking through some reviews, it appears to me that two 8800GT cards would perform roughly on par with a single 8800GTS 320MB/640MB, at least to 1280x1024.

XSReviews 8600GT review

XSreviews 8600GT SLi review

Legit Reviews 8600 review

Anandtech 8500 and 8600 review


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Finally decide to up date to the 1002 bios.And lapped my cpu would see if any change.

Nice one! any good?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
Nice one! any good?

Thank's,workin on it.The 0903 never give me an issue.But just in case i up date.
Hey cogno your rig boot up and is working again?


----------



## cognoscenti

lol yeah seems ok now, im chugging away with four cores @ *3458*mhz each and 50c, load goes up to about 60c but thats fine.


----------



## alexisd

Glad heard that.Little scary ha?


----------



## cognoscenti

lol yeah especially when i zapped the MB with static electricity when walking across carpet then I picked it up.

ZAP!

I got a few new awards today!


----------



## Eveilsor

Hi guys, I am relatively new to the forums, and a new player in the overclocking game. *waves*

I've been reading this thread with interest for the past couple of weeks. In fairness I have however only managed to read up to about p50 and the last 20 posts or so.

I started to read it because I ordered a P5N32-E PLUS motherboard the other week as part of my new rig (see specs below) and wanted to overclock my e6420 when it arrived.

I want to overclock the e6420 on stock cooling, and hopefully later on a better cooling system - hopefully when prices come down and more stock comes in.

Anyhow I procrastinate. I set up my rig (minus HDD and CASE) and powered up (using my old case for a power button - anyone know how to jimmy rig one without having to use a case?). I went into the BIOS and had a look around. Took lots of pictures. Then I decided to update the BIOS to the 1002 version which I downloaded from ASUS' website. I put it on a FAT32 formatted USB stick, plugged it into the USB port and rebooted. I went into EZFlash and the system told me it had the 0302 BIOS on it currently. I looked on the C: drive and the 1002.BIN file was there and I pressed ENTER and it started to "check file" and then it came up with the following error message:

Quote:

ROM ID in the file is incompatible with the existing BIOS!










Drat! OK so I know I have the PLUS version of the board, but from reading this thread I thought I'd be able to flash it with this BIOS!? If you go to ASUS website and look for the BIOS' available for the plus board it seems to just STOP at the BETA VERSION 0602 BIOS! The last available NON BETA BIOS for this board is 0501.

Could someone give me some advice on what to do please?

I also noticed something a little alarming on ASUS' site. My e6420 CPU says it will only work with the 0501 BIOS for this board! I have the 0302 BIOS on this board yet it managed to get into the BIOS for me! What is going on here?

Should I FLASH my BIOS to the 0501 version first? and then maybe try the 1002 (non-plus) version after? or should I just FLASH it to 0501 and be happy that everything I have seems to be working?

Apologies for all the questions.

I have pictures of every screen in the BIOS if you need any more data.

Thanks for any help you can give me on this matter.

cheers,

Eveilsor


----------



## cognoscenti

1002 is not compatible with the plus version motherboard.

I think 0602 is the latest for your board.

These boards may sound familiar in the name but they are not that close.

I dont really understand why you are wanting to put the 1002 version on your board which is totally different setup for the 1002 bios.

If I was you I would have bought the non plus version.


----------



## Eveilsor

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Eveilsor* 
If you go to ASUS website and look for the BIOS' available for the plus board it seems to just STOP at the BETA VERSION 0602 BIOS! The last available NON BETA BIOS for this board is 0501.

hehe

Thanks for the ooba fast response.

So do you suggest I FLASH it to the BETA or to the 0501 version?

and will the 0501 version be good enough for overclocking?

Eveilsor

[edit]

was nice of you to respond, then CHANGE your response without any 'edit' references. LMAO

I know my PLUS board is a bit of a hybrid, a sheep in wolfs clothing as it were! hehe. From what I read in reviews elsewhere though this version was better. After reading this thread I'm starting to think otherwise.

[re-edit]
er hello up there, looky down here! roflmao

For your last comments read what I wrote in here. This is a like a re-edit war going on. LMAO

OK I have a different screenie for you taken about an hour ago:

What is with the 0602 BIOS. Is it BETA or not?


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Eveilsor* 
hehe

Thanks for the ooba fast response.

So do you suggest I FLASH it to the BETA or to the 0501 version?

and will the 0501 version be good enough for overclocking?

Eveilsor

[edit]

was nice of you to respond, then CHANGE your response without any 'edit' references. LMAO

I know my PLUS board is a bit of a hybrid, a sheep in wolfs clothing as it were! hehe. From what I read in reviews elsewhere though this version was better. After reading this thread I'm starting to think otherwise.

[re-edit]
er hello up there, looky down here! roflmao

For your last comments read what I wrote in here. This is a like a re-edit war going on. LMAO

OK I have a different screenie for you taken about an hour ago:

What is with the 0602 BIOS. Is it BETA or not?

I have seen some nice reviews on the PLUS version as well. I also ran a crossed some over clocking guides as well I will try to dig them up tomorrow and pass them along. I would see if you could RMA it and get the non-PLUSE version though. It seams like you can do a lot more with it. Note I'm still deciding on my new rig, so I do not have any hands-on experience with either!


----------



## mhw100

cogno,
Was ~345Mhz the ceiling for the Quad or have you been able to get it higher than there with a lower multi? If so, I guess that is a little better improvement for this Asus over the QX6700's 333Mhz ceiling.


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

i have seen in this thread people claim to running 3.6ghz or more with a CPU Vcore voltage of around 1.45V, it is in my opinion after a lot of research and reading articles from pro's see how anyone can get 3.6 or above with 1.45v or just over, its fine that someone posts CPU-Z screenies, but thats probably before it crashed or gone too 100% load.

I would like to see a combined screeny of orthos, coretemp and cpu-z to convince me otherwise. There seems to be a little bit of a competition on here and some ppl arent playing fair.

Sure some people will read this and wink and say 'But im special' but those are the kinda people im talking about.

Sorry for this rant but I am just saying what others are thinking!

Dont believe everything you see!


----------



## alexisd

I show you mine @ 3.5 with full orthos.Some people claim that they have higher oc.But maybe they no stable.


----------



## SA3L

Wich cpu-cooler do you recomend for this board and a core 2 duo E6420?


----------



## alexisd

I have the tunic with great results,and lap that cooler and you all set.


----------



## SA3L

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


I have the tunic with great results,and lap that cooler and you all set.


lap?


----------



## overclockerbiggsy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
I show you mine @ 3.5 with full orthos.Some people claim that they have higher oc.But maybe they no stable.

well tbh thats perfectly believable, nice one dude, what settings u using in bios for that, can u post them in this thread please http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...00-bios-2.html

thanks for sharing


----------



## SA3L

Does the tunic tower fit in a enermax chakra?


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *overclockerbiggsy* 
i have seen in this thread people claim to running 3.6ghz or more with a CPU Vcore voltage of around 1.45V, it is in my opinion after a lot of research and reading articles from pro's see how anyone can get 3.6 or above with 1.45v or just over, its fine that someone posts CPU-Z screenies, but thats probably before it crashed or gone too 100% load.

I would like to see a combined screeny of orthos, coretemp and cpu-z to convince me otherwise. There seems to be a little bit of a competition on here and some ppl arent playing fair.

Sure some people will read this and wink and say 'But im special' but those are the kinda people im talking about.

Sorry for this rant but I am just saying what others are thinking!

Dont believe everything you see!

I'm special.









Seriously though, I understand where you're coming from which is why I've just ran a couple of hours of Orthos small FTT to show my stable overclock in the attached screenie.

However, I can't stress enough that *cooling is a very important factor* when you start upping, not only CPU vCore, but chipset vCore aswell. Manageing the airflow inside your chassis is paramount. I need to have cool air from outside blowing directly over my CPU and Northbridge. Don't think that people here claim ridiculous overclocks just to enlarge their e-p3n0r, infact cognoscenti doesn't even have a p3n0r. Even though alot of people are useing an E6600 with a P5N32-E in this thread, doesn't mean that they all should set the same BIOS settings for 3.6Ghz. SLi systems can throw internal temperatures up aswell as bad cable management.

I was stuck at 3.2Ghz for a while myself as I wasn't sure what chipset voltages I should set. However, instead of makeing a thread and trying to copy everyone elses I simply did a little Googleing to find out the default values and started playing with them whenever Orthos would fail. Its a simply case of raise FSB until unstable, then raise CPU vCore until unstable, then try raiseing NorthBridge vCore. When it came to hitting 3.75Ghz, I simply asked cognoscenti a little question on what vCore she had her NorthBridge set to at 3.6Ghz, it turned out it was half a volt higher than mine so that's where my problem was.

When I first managed to boot into Windows at 3.6Ghz I was well chuffed, but Orthos would fail in less than a minute. I had Nvidia monitor open when I tried Orthos and straight away noticed that my previous load temps that gradually built up from 48*C to 54*C when at 3.4Ghz, shot straight from 58*C to 68*C in under a minute. Now, it doesn't take a genius to figure out that the reason Orthos was failing was down to cooling. With this in mind I've done the best I can to decrease temperature without spending any money.

Fresh thermal paste
Cleaned Tuniq Tower
Tidy cables and move HDD cage
Leave side panel off
Rearrange room so PC is by window
Pipe leading to outside for fresh cool air
Once I finished improveing what I could with cooling I tried Orthos again and sure enough my temperatures would shoot from 48*C, but hover just below 60*C. The improvisations I'd made to my cooling were enough to keep the CPU at a decent temperature under load and so Orthos wouldn't fail.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SA3L* 
Does the tunic tower fit in a enermax chakra?









I wouldn't risk it if your Chakra is the type that has a 250mm intake fan on the chassis side panel.


----------



## drmartin48106

Did you mean:
From looking through some reviews, it appears to me that two 8600GT cards would perform roughly on par with a single 8800GTS 320MB/640MB, at least to 1280x1024.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


Did you mean:
From looking through some reviews, it appears to me that two 8600GT cards would perform roughly on par with a single 8800GTS 320MB/640MB, at least to 1280x1024.


Yes, exactly.









I'd recommend haveing a look through some of the reviews I linked to a couple of pages back in this thread so you can come to your own conclusions.


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


Yes, exactly.









I'd recommend haveing a look through some of the reviews I linked to a couple of pages back in this thread so you can come to your own conclusions.


I am, and thanks. i seem to get out of one the (linked) threads that the 7900GT is still a good contender... I'm so confused! This is by far harder than to pick memory. I have to do some more research, but one of the things that gets me is the 128 interface on the 8600s.


----------



## mba2dna

The 120 Ultra Extreme is out of stock in 2 days. I don't want to bother too much. Just put everything in stock and stay at 2.9G. All stuffs put in case, no need for noisy fans. Idle 29C, full load 38C is fine. 3dmark06 at 133xx for SLI. Dell agent is not able to get a 3007-hc last week. Has to wait for another week.

Last weekend was busy in fixing the third PC (XP2500). Turn out that the Antec 350W is not stable and kill a harddisk. Replaced both, actually overkill the system by putting a Enermax 600W in.


----------



## joematrix

I know this is kind of off topic, but I'm looking at water cooling options, since my e6400 @ 3.2ghz currently idles at 40-44C with coretemp. I'd like to be quite a bit cooler than that. My current CPU cooler is the Arctic Cooler Freezer 7 Pro, which I am fairly impressed with, but I am now looking at a Corsair Nautilus 500 system, link is http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835181004

Any comments on this system, or any other water cooling solution for about $150?


----------



## {core2duo}werd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joematrix* 
I know this is kind of off topic, but I'm looking at water cooling options, since my e6400 @ 3.2ghz currently idles at 40-44C with coretemp. I'd like to be quite a bit cooler than that. My current CPU cooler is the Arctic Cooler Freezer 7 Pro, which I am fairly impressed with, but I am now looking at a Corsair Nautilus 500 system, link is http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835181004

Any comments on this system, or any other water cooling solution for about $150?

from what i have heard, this is the best in that price range http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835108075


----------



## SA3L

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
I'm special.








I wouldn't risk it if your Chakra is the type that has a 250mm intake fan on the chassis side panel.

Why not?


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SA3L* 
Why not?

Due to the sheer height of the Tuniq when it is installed onto the motherboard, you may find that you cannot put the chassis side panel on if there is a large 250mm intake fan installed on it. I can't even fit a small 80mm fan to my side panel with the Tuniq in my system. You should have no probelms installing a Tuniq into an Enermax Chakra, provided its the version that *doesn't* have the large intake fan on the side panel.


----------



## USlatin

NICE CASE!!! (right)


----------



## theGryphon

Hey y'all,
Check this out:

http://www.mwave.com/mwave/viewspec....3&RSKU=BA23853

http://www.thermaltake.com/product/C...1/cl-p0401.asp

You may love it or just hate it. Me loves it!

I wonder how it performs though. I could find just this short review:

http://www.rbmods.com/Articles/Therm...pucooler/1.php

Edit: A guy at Newegg says it dropped the temps by ~5C over Zalman 9700







Impressive if correct...


----------



## theGryphon

Cogno, luv your QX6800! Wish I could affor it









Are you using the 9700 or water cooling for overclocking?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *{core2duo}werd* 
from what i have heard, this is the best in that price range http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835108075

Thats hilarious!

*US price $149

UK price $240* http://www.tekheads.co.uk/s/product?product=604217

Another blinding example of how our systems cost twice as much to build here.


----------



## SA3L

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
Due to the sheer height of the Tuniq when it is installed onto the motherboard, you may find that you cannot put the chassis side panel on if there is a large 250mm intake fan installed on it. I can't even fit a small 80mm fan to my side panel with the Tuniq in my system. You should have no probelms installing a Tuniq into an Enermax Chakra, provided its the version that *doesn't* have the large intake fan on the side panel.

I have the one with the big fan, but how wide is your case? I realy want that cooler, but this puts me in a bad situation


----------



## cognoscenti

Anyone know where you can download the raid drivers or a image of the motherboard disc ( i lost it).

I'm re setting up my raid 0 on the raptors and need the disc.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
Anyone know where you can download the raid drivers or a image of the motherboard disc ( i lost it).

I'm re setting up my raid 0 on the raptors and need the disc.

I think I've found them on my installation CD. You should just copy them onto a floppy disc I believe.


----------



## cognoscenti

Will they work if i plug in a usb floppy drive?


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*











Will they work if i plug in a usb floppy drive?


I haven't setup Raid in yonks, if the installation procedure is able to recognise USB devices then it should. However, I've got a nasty feeling you're going to have to use a floppy.

PM me if you ever need the Vista Raid drivers.


----------



## SA3L

t4ct1c47 do you think that the Cooler Master Gemin II can fit in my chakra? (the one with the 250mm fan)


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SA3L*


t4ct1c47 do you think that the Cooler Master Gemin II can fit in my chakra? (the one with the 250mm fan)


The Gemini II dimensions are; *175mm x 124.6mm x 81.5mm*, I'll l'll leave it up to you to do the measureing. You might be able to remove the large fan on your side panel anyway.


----------



## SA3L

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


The Gemini II dimensions are; *175mm x 124.6mm x 81.5mm*, I'll l'll leave it up to you to do the measureing. You might be able to remove the large fan on your side panel anyway.


Yes, but it is not so high, 81,5 mm. Do you recomend a cooler?


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mhw100*


cogno,
Was ~345Mhz the ceiling for the Quad or have you been able to get it higher than there with a lower multi? If so, I guess that is a little better improvement for this Asus over the QX6700's 333Mhz ceiling.


Cogno ???


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Eveilsor* 
hehe

Thanks for the ooba fast response.

So do you suggest I FLASH it to the BETA or to the 0501 version?

and will the 0501 version be good enough for overclocking?

Eveilsor

[edit]

was nice of you to respond, then CHANGE your response without any 'edit' references. LMAO

I know my PLUS board is a bit of a hybrid, a sheep in wolfs clothing as it were! hehe. From what I read in reviews elsewhere though this version was better. After reading this thread I'm starting to think otherwise.

[re-edit]
er hello up there, looky down here! roflmao

For your last comments read what I wrote in here. This is a like a re-edit war going on. LMAO

OK I have a different screenie for you taken about an hour ago:

What is with the 0602 BIOS. Is it BETA or not?

here is the link I mentioned on over clocking the PLUS mobo:
http://www.anandtech.com/printarticle.aspx?i=2958


----------



## Eveilsor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


here is the link I mentioned on over clocking the PLUS mobo:
http://www.anandtech.com/printarticle.aspx?i=2958












You legend!

I could kiss you









I read a bit of it at work. I'll read the rest of it tomorrow (at work)! Working is so over-rated!


----------



## nuclearjock

Saw an 1101 beta bios on the Asus server this morning.

Anyone tried it yet??? No change log.


----------



## isprog

Hi Guys.
About to buy all my parts, and after reading several comments made here, and wondering about overclocking and RAID 0.

Several people reported that their RAID 0 drives got corrupted due to overclocking lockup and had to either rescue them using WinXP setup disk or in one instance do a complete re-install of their OS.

What is the feeling here about doing overclocking trials (setting up your overclocking) while using RAID 0 disks ?

Thanks


----------



## {core2duo}werd

i have raid 0 and i haven't had anything corrupt i think that problem was with earlier boards.

so i got my watercooling today and it's great my CPU never goes over 41C... BUT i can't get any overclocks stable at all... so i checked it out and i touched the north bridge while it was on and i got burnt!!! so i guess i need to add some more north bridge cooling. the southbridge seems OK, so how do you add a north bridge cooler to a water loop? do i have to drain it all and re fill it???


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:


Originally Posted by *isprog* 
Hi Guys.
About to buy all my parts, and after reading several comments made here, and wondering about overclocking and RAID 0.

Several people reported that their RAID 0 drives got corrupted due to overclocking lockup and had to either rescue them using WinXP setup disk or in one instance do a complete re-install of their OS.

What is the feeling here about doing overclocking trials (setting up your overclocking) while using RAID 0 disks ?

Thanks

The RAID controller is (should be) a separate chip / BIOS. Over clocking should have no effect of it. Granted data flows though the CPU, NB, etc. so corruption could occur there as well as with improperly shutting down Windows (i.e. crashing). Using JBOD, RAID-0, RAID-1, etc. will not effect operations of you machine nor would your machine's operation affect your data, save the previously mentioned.

Setting RAID will only affect reading and writing times as well as save from disk failure (save RAID-1)!

It does take time with some RAID controllers to setup the data structures so if you are planning on testing, it may save some time if you use JBOB till you get your system set then do a final reload using the RAID level you desire.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuclearjock* 
Saw an 1101 beta bios on the Asus server this morning.

Anyone tried it yet??? No change log.

I already got it from a buddy through the asus forums before it was released (had it for two days)> I haven't been able to determine what changes have been made. So far everything runs identical to 1002. It may have provided increased compatibility with ram and some of the newer chips (like the QX6800, although cogno already is running one on this board).

I'll keep everyone posted.


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:


Originally Posted by *{core2duo}werd* 
i have raid 0 and i haven't had anything corrupt i think that problem was with earlier boards.

so i got my watercooling today and it's great my CPU never goes over 41C... BUT i can't get any overclocks stable at all... so i checked it out and i touched the north bridge while it was on and i got burnt!!! so i guess i need to add some more north bridge cooling. the southbridge seems OK, so how do you add a north bridge cooler to a water loop? do i have to drain it all and re fill it???

It is a good idea to drain it (save from possible spills). Depending on how your setup is (everything drains out of the lines you will be taping into), you could skip draining. Personally I would drain it; half way through you might decide you need to lay your rig on its side!

I would have a general question as to where to tap in. In serial with the cpu? If so before or after the cpu? Parallel with the cpu? If so how to you regulate pressure between the paths?

If you find the answers to the above please let me know.

Thanks,
D


----------



## {core2duo}werd

i would just put it in the same loop as the CPU after the cpu. i was just going to get a better radiator to offset the extra heat.

Edit: anyone ever tried this?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/59...?tl=g40c16s227
nice and quiet... as long as it does the job i might get 2 and some mosfet cooling.


----------



## mba2dna

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SA3L*


Yes, but it is not so high, 81,5 mm. Do you recomend a cooler?


If you are not doing extreme overclocking, yes it is. First it is not expensive compare with other HSF. The two 120mm fans can cool the ram, nb heatsink and mofset heat sink as well. When my rig was running at 3.4G @ 1.6V, the two 2000rpm fans could keep the CPU at max 53C when full load. But please note that you can hardly use a after market nb HSF due to it's heatpipe block the clearance above the nb. I've tried to put a non-SLI HS-5, only one of its corner could cover the chips and it is not placed in the chip center. Anyway, it could still work but make sure it can fasten firmly.

Don't use my case as reference, as I am no luck on this setup







. As Ultra120 extreme is out of stock here, I reinstall Geminii back, but can't do the previous overclock @ 3.4G, I settled at 2.9G @ 1.35V with stock heatpipe, never beyond 38C in full load.

P.S at least, I got a U120 extreme yesterday, but I have already put all parts in the case. Don't bother to change it now unless more misery happened...


----------



## mba2dna

Quote:



Originally Posted by *{core2duo}werd*


i have raid 0 and i haven't had anything corrupt i think that problem was with earlier boards.


Me too, no problem for raid 0.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


I already got it from a buddy through the asus forums before it was released (had it for two days)> I haven't been able to determine what changes have been made. So far everything runs identical to 1002. It may have provided increased compatibility with ram and some of the newer chips (like the QX6800, although cogno already is running one on this board).

I'll keep everyone posted.


Any changes?


----------



## Robilar

None that I have seen so far. I've only been playing with it for a few hours though (long weekend in Canada, took the family away). I'll mess with it again this evening.


----------



## mhw100

A couple of questions re chipset cooling?
1. I have a third video card installed overtop of the SB so I assume there isn't a product that squeezes under it. It looks like some of the products have heat pipes that bend around a card but it still looks too tight because of the card right next to it. Is this correct or is there something I can use?
2. When you rip out the passive Asus cooling in order to install a NB cooler a la Tt Extreme Spirit II, do you have to pull off the heat pipe that runs to the SB? If so, wouldn't this hurt the cooling on the SB?
Thanks.


----------



## spinoza

Just wanted to pass along some numbers from the build and the OC'ing so far.

- Ambient room temp is 23C
- Stock temps at stock speeds were acceptable at 26C. Load was 31C
- Conservative OC to 2.6Ghz (9 mutli, 1066FSB) at stock voltage(1.325). Idle 38C, Load 50C
- Note: FSB and CPU are unlinked. I have the memory running at 1066Mhz.
- Running stable Orthos for 8 hours.

I will be attempting 2.8Ghz tonight.

Any suggestions on increasing Vcore? For this particular chip would 60C under load be considered the max temp?

Thanks!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spinoza* 
Just wanted to pass along some numbers from the build and the OC'ing so far.

- Ambient room temp is 23C
- Stock temps at stock speeds were acceptable at 26C. Load was 31C
- Conservative OC to 2.6Ghz (9 mutli, 1066FSB) at stock voltage(1.325). Idle 38C, Load 50C
- Note: FSB and CPU are unlinked. I have the memory running at 1066Mhz.
- Running stable Orthos for 8 hours.

I will be attempting 2.8Ghz tonight.

Any suggestions on increasing Vcore? For this particular chip would 60C under load be considered the max temp?

Thanks!


What are you using to monitor the temps? 3C over ambient at stock even with a tuniq is a bit odd. Make certain to use coretemp.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mhw100* 
A couple of questions re chipset cooling?
1. I have a third video card installed overtop of the SB so I assume there isn't a product that squeezes under it. It looks like some of the products have heat pipes that bend around a card but it still looks too tight because of the card right next to it. Is this correct or is there something I can use?
2. When you rip out the passive Asus cooling in order to install a NB cooler a la Tt Extreme Spirit II, do you have to pull off the heat pipe that runs to the SB? If so, wouldn't this hurt the cooling on the SB?
Thanks.

You can leave the sb heatpipe on as I had major clearance issues with a relatively short sound card in the centre slot. Lack of active cooling on the sb (especiially if its covered by another heat generating card) may hinder your overclocks but the heatpipe is better than nothing.


----------



## spinoza

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
What are you using to monitor the temps? 3C over ambient at stock even with a tuniq is a bit odd. Make certain to use coretemp.

I'm using the latest Everest. It reported back cpu1=77,cpu2=77,cpu=79 fahrenheit.
I thought that was low as well.
I'll double check with coretemp tonight before attempting vcore increases.


----------



## mhw100

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
You can leave the sb heatpipe on as I had major clearance issues with a relatively short sound card in the centre slot. Lack of active cooling on the sb (especiially if its covered by another heat generating card) may hinder your overclocks but the heatpipe is better than nothing.

Thanks Robilar - I'll leave it attached. It does have the CM 830 bottom left door fan blowing on the SB ...just like yours which must help a little.


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mhw100*


A couple of questions re chipset cooling?
1. I have a third video card installed overtop of the SB so I assume there isn't a product that squeezes under it. It looks like some of the products have heat pipes that bend around a card but it still looks too tight because of the card right next to it. Is this correct or is there something I can use?
2. When you rip out the passive Asus cooling in order to install a NB cooler a la Tt Extreme Spirit II, do you have to pull off the heat pipe that runs to the SB? If so, wouldn't this hurt the cooling on the SB?
Thanks.


What about using an off-set cooler (as shown in the pic on page 3 of this thread)? credit would go to alexisd for his post on pg2


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


What about using an off-set cooler (as shown in the pic on page 3 of this thread)? credit would go to alexisd for his post on pg2


Thanks for the help.

I saw that as well as the Jing unit as well. I see how it offsets but I don't think it can squeeze between the cards like it would with the larger gap that exists between 2 SLIed cards i.e. on the battery side it looks like the heat pipes would hit a condensor and/or the vid card on the south and hit the other vid card to the north.

If it can offset towards the end of the video cards (memory side) then it has to clear another condensor, the Corsair memory cooler as well as the power cabling to the 3 video cards. I just don't think something is going to get in there other than some custom setup.

I'm just not sure anything will work with that 3rd card in there but thanks again for the help.


----------



## jessipps

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Lets see some pics! Also price and where you got them and I'll add them to the guide.

here's a better pic of the top one


----------



## Robilar

Nice pic! I like em


----------



## KHY

First off thanks for all the people posting here. This guide has been really helpful along with everyone else's input.

I'm new to OC'ing and this will be my first project. Parts are arriving Thursday/Friday and I'll start putting it all together.

I have a few questions:

1. When actually assembling the unit, should I make all the motherboard mods (i.e. Mosfet , NB , and SB) beforehand or should I setup everything else up and test the system before?

Note: I'll be using the Spirit II on the NB, HR-05 on the SB, and Swiftech MC21's on the Mosfets.

2. Is there anything I should be aware of when assembling the PC? I've built PC's in the past before , what I mean is are there any specific things that I should be aware of in regards to some of the components I'm using?

3. I'm planning on using windows vista 32-bit, how does this effect overclocking?

4. Are people here testing under windows XP? And if so why?

5. If you can run stable under windows XP does that imply you can run stable 
under windows vista?

6. Sorta off topic but can you dual boot OS's for vista and XP and if so how is it done?

Looking forward to building and testing this setup. I'm sure I'm going to need a lot of help so thanks in advance for all your input.


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mhw100*


Thanks for the help.

I saw that as well as the Jing unit as well. I see how it offsets but I don't think it can squeeze between the cards like it would with the larger gap that exists between 2 SLIed cards i.e. on the battery side it looks like the heat pipes would hit a condensor and/or the vid card on the south and hit the other vid card to the north.

If it can offset towards the end of the video cards (memory side) then it has to clear another condensor, the Corsair memory cooler as well as the power cabling to the 3 video cards. I just don't think something is going to get in there other than some custom setup.

I'm just not sure anything will work with that 3rd card in there but thanks again for the help.


A pic of the layout might aid you in getting help.


----------



## drmartin48106

1)Yes! Make sure your stuff works first. That was if something is DOA then you can RMA without and hasel (or as much work putting your stock cooling back). Also it is a good time to take some base-line reading. These will help in seeing the effects if your tweaking (OC and cooling).
2)I would dry fis some of the components such as mobo and graphics card to see if any case mods will be necessary.
3)OS "should be" independent from OC settings much like it is unaware of RAID. Others my chime in here. 
4)Can not answer for sure, but I would think that most testing utilities are build for XP (32 bit).
5)See #3.
6)While I have not played with Vista, most OSes alow for dual-boot during the installation. There usually is a particular order (some combinations of linux and windows require windows to be installed first, though I prefer grub as my boot loader). Also you will need to partition your drives (or use separate drives). One for each OS. Some like to have a third for common/shared data. Do not format the second (or third) partition. Let the individual OS installers do it for you. Different OSes prefer different file systems. Also vista has a "security future" that keeps other OSes (including vista) from accessing a drive. Make sure this is not enabled. Prior to installing any apps that may use the third partition make sure and can be read and written to by both OSes. And finally it is best to change the drive letter of your CD/DVD ROMS to Z for all OSes prior to installing any apps. This will help eliminate confusion.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KHY*


I have a few questions:

1. When actually assembling the unit, should I make all the motherboard mods (i.e. Mosfet , NB , and SB) beforehand or should I setup everything else up and test the system before?


When I got my replacement board I just went ahead and changed the stock cooling before powering it on. There's no harm in setting up beforehand just to make sure your new board isn't DOA.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KHY*


2. Is there anything I should be aware of when assembling the PC? I've built PC's in the past before , what I mean is are there any specific things that I should be aware of in regards to some of the components I'm using?


Just be extremely careful when you remove the stock motherboard coolers. You don't want to scratch your new board trying to get them out.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KHY*


3. I'm planning on using windows vista 32-bit, how does this effect overclocking?


I'm useing Vista x64 Business and CPU overclocking is the same as its always best done through the BIOS anyway. Though you may find that you'll belimited with regards to what programs you can use to monitor temps and volts as not all of them work in Vista. I've had no problems at all getting the latest SpeedFan or Everest working on my installation.

You also may come across issues trying to overclock your graphics card. I know for a fact that no software is available at present for overclocking in the x64 version. I've had to use nvFlash and NiHibiTor to flash my graphics card BIOS's with updated default clocks. Though I hear that most people are able to get the latest ATI Tool to work in Vista x86.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KHY*


4. Are people here testing under windows XP? And if so why?


As said, I'm useing Vista.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KHY*


5. If you can run stable under windows XP does that imply you can run stable 
under windows vista?


Of course, though you may notice small increases in graphics card temperatures as Vista uses a more demanding GUI than XP.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KHY*


6. Sorta off topic but can you dual boot OS's for vista and XP and if so how is it done?


1. Partition your hard drive. In Windows XP you can use a partitioning program like PartitionMagic to create a new primary partition to install Vista on. Make it at least 20 gigabytes in size.

2. Install Vista on the new partition. Pop in the Vista CD and point it to your newly-created partition as the installation destination. Installation will restart your machine at various points.

3. Choose your operating system on boot. Once Vista is installed on your newly-created partition, on boot up, you'll get a choice to start XP or Vista. The default is Vista. However, this can be changed using Vista's boot manager.


----------



## Balls Up

I have built a system with an E6600, P5N32-E SLi & a Zalman 9700. The problem is that I can not get a correct temp reading.
3.2GHz coretemp Idle 21c load 41c ambient temp 24c This is just not right.
I am using coretemp 0.95 & everest 4.00.976 (Even lower temps)
I have read through most of this thread and from all accounts coretemp should give me a correct reading.
Has any one had this problem and do you know how to get a correct reading?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Balls Up* 
I have built a system with an E6600, P5N32-E SLi & a Zalman 9700. The problem is that I can not get a correct temp reading.
3.2GHz coretemp Idle 21c load 41c ambient temp 24c This is just not right.
I am using coretemp 0.95 & everest 4.00.976 (Even lower temps)
I have read through most of this thread and from all accounts coretemp should give me a correct reading.
Has any one had this problem and do you know how to get a correct reading?

Ambient of 24c? you must live in the north island?

those are some pretty good temps for the overclock.
Coretemp should be pretty close, everest distant 2nd.


----------



## SA3L

How do i do to set a usb-memory as the first bootdevice?


----------



## {core2duo}werd

hit f8 during post repeatedly and then choose the usb stick from the list


----------



## spinoza

OK. Looks like the numbers for temp that I was getting from the latest version of Everest were way low.

Using Coretemp I'm getting 43C idle and 60-61 load running Orthos. This seems to be inline with some of the numbers in this epic thread.

As far as the OC goes I'm running stable at 300x9 (2.7GHz)@1.325v. with the memory timings at 4-4-4-10 [email protected] MHz. Robilar, I picked up your advice way back in the early parts of this thread concerning tight timings and lower FSB for the memory as opposed for going broke on the FSB as this would impact the speed in games and such. Please correct me if I mis-understood.

As far as going higher with the CPU it seems I'm hitting a wall at 300. I was able to get [email protected] and it booted into windows and I was absolutely stoked at the fact that I was running it at 3GHz (using default memory timings of 5-5-5-12 [email protected]) It ran Orthos for 3 hours and the temps got to 66C under load. It even ran 3DMark05 and I got 14,300. I was going to keep it there but when I rebooted it wouldn't post. If I cold booted chances were that it came back _after_ I went into the bios first - but it never does a warm boot. I decided to go back to [email protected] and work my way up with the voltages but I get the same starting at 303 no matter how much voltage is applied. I didn't think that upping the voltage past 1.45v. was going to do anything so I stopped there.

Any suggestions on what I'm running into here?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spinoza*


- but it never does a warm boot. I decided to go back to [email protected] and work my way up with the voltages but I get the same starting at 303 no matter how much voltage is applied. I didn't think that upping the voltage past 1.45v. was going to do anything so I stopped there.

Any suggestions on what I'm running into here?


I had that problem alot where it wouldnt warm reboot after changing bios settings.
I would turn it off at the wall for a few seconds then power up again.

Try going straight up to a higher value as you may be stumbling where you are 
i.e Try 353 at 1.4v see what happens
Try 359 etc etc


----------



## spinoza

Thanks Cognoscenti.

I will give that a shot and see if I can break through. I'm thinking that with a week 44 of the 4300 I'm probably hitting the ceiling anyway. I only got the thing to practice overclocking and I'm pretty impressed that it even posts at 333







.

Will post back with update.


----------



## DarkJedi

First up, hello & thanks to Robilar & everyone for the best P5N32-E thread on the internet, well worth the signup!









Although I've been overclocking since 286 days, this is my first foray into watercooling, so would certainly welcome any advice from the illuminati in this thread, hehe!









For this system I bought an Alphacool Ready2Go Stacker, but ended up draining it and replumbing it anyway as I didn't like the layout. Currently just the CPU is cooled, with a triple rad, and using 10/8mm tubing with screw compression fittings.










Whilst this gives me great temps, the motherboard of course gets roasty, and the NB hotter than a snake's butt in a wagon rut! I'm looking to add the 8800GTX, NB, and perhaps left bank of mofsets into the loop... (hoping to leave the SB and top bank of mofsets as is, as they don't get quite so hot)

What I'd appreciate some guidance on is the best way to plumb it together - i.e. is a single loop still ok with all that?

For neatness I was thinking the best route would be pump->cpu->mofset->NB->GTX->rad->reservoir. With the components so close together there will be some quite tight bends in the tubing, so I am thinking I might use some right-angled fittings, unless they're considered a no-no? (I guess they must affect flow rate a little?)

Anyway, TIA for any help!


----------



## mhw100

Cognoscenti - have you tried to get the FSB up beyond your posted results?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DarkJedi*


First up, hello & thanks to Robilar & everyone for the best P5N32-E thread on the internet, well worth the signup!









Although I've been overclocking since 286 days, this is my first foray into watercooling, so would certainly welcome any advice from the illuminati in this thread, hehe!









For this system I bought an Alphacool Ready2Go Stacker, but ended up draining it and replumbing it anyway as I didn't like the layout. Currently just the CPU is cooled, with a triple rad, and using 10/8mm tubing with screw compression fittings.

Whilst this gives me great temps, the motherboard of course gets roasty, and the NB hotter than a snake's butt in a wagon rut! I'm looking to add the 8800GTX, NB, and perhaps left bank of mofsets into the loop... (hoping to leave the SB and top bank of mofsets as is, as they don't get quite so hot)

What I'd appreciate some guidance on is the best way to plumb it together - i.e. is a single loop still ok with all that?

For neatness I was thinking the best route would be pump->cpu->mofset->NB->GTX->rad->reservoir. With the components so close together there will be some quite tight bends in the tubing, so I am thinking I might use some right-angled fittings, unless they're considered a no-no? (I guess they must affect flow rate a little?)

Anyway, TIA for any help!



I definately wouldnt be putting all those in one loop.

The NB on this board is really hot.
8800 cards pump alot of heat.
Your CPU needs its own dedicated loop and if you have to maybe do the mosfet cooling on this one.
8800's and SB ,NB in a seperate.

I have a secret project underway and some crazy cooling which I can show but you have to wait about a couple of weeks


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mhw100*


Cognoscenti - have you tried to get the FSB up beyond your posted results?


On the Quad? no, not yet.
I have a whole new build underway so I will wait til then.


----------



## DarkJedi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


I definately wouldnt be putting all those in one loop.

The NB on this board is really hot.
8800 cards pump alot of heat.
Your CPU needs its own dedicated loop and if you have to maybe do the mosfet cooling on this one.
8800's and SB ,NB in a seperate.

I have a secret project underway and some crazy cooling which I can show but you have to wait about a couple of weeks










Thanks cognoscenti! OK, noob question here - would a second loop require another rad, reservoir etc, or could I run something in parallel and still leverage the triple rad? (This rig's on the company asset register, don't want to chop it up tooooooo much







)

Ooh, can't wait to see Project-X!







A couple of weeks is a perfect timeframe - I need to wait for the expenses cheque to clear some space on the credit card anyway!


----------



## Robilar

Got some feedback from a buddy with this board on the new beta bios that was released. Apparently it increased stability for overclocking 4x1 gb of ram. He was unable to run the ram at anything but stock stable and is now able to run his corsair c5-8500's (all four of them) at tight timings and has tried some mild overclocks with stable results. I'll get him to run some tests and I'll post back exact numbers.


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Got some feedback from a buddy with this board on the new beta bios that was released. Apparently it increased stability for overclocking 4x1 gb of ram. He was unable to run the ram at anything but stock stable and is now able to run his corsair c5-8500's (all four of them) at tight timings and has tried some mild overclocks with stable results. I'll get him to run some tests and I'll post back exact numbers.


I hope it will also increase the overhead on the FSB for the Quad and also fix the HDD RAID boat anchor









Robilar - I posted a query over in the water forum about the NB cooling. From the little research I've done water isn't a substantive improvement over a fan. I saw your picture of the Spirit and it looks tight. Did you ever look at the Swiftech MCX159-CU? It looks a bit smaller in footprint compared to the Tt and wondered if it would squeeze in better?


----------



## Robilar

Swiftech stuff is hard to get in this area. Not to mention, although it is slimmer, it is also taller than the spirit II. The only guys that carry it locally are bigfoot and they rarely have stock.


----------



## {core2duo}werd

ugh i bought a thermalright northbridge heatsink, and a silentx 80mm fan to cool it, and one of those thermal right mosfet coolers and i'm having so many problems... the fan is crap it definatly doesn't move the 38 cfm as advertised, and the mosfet cooler doesn't fit! i'm trying to get it on the left set of mosfets and it just doesn't fit inbetween a solid capacitor, and some box thing. it fits if i don't have the push pin thing holding it there but the little strip that holds it there isn't strong enough and it falls off! i don't know what to do.


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *{core2duo}werd*


ugh i bought a thermalright northbridge heatsink, and a silentx 80mm fan to cool it, and one of those thermal right mosfet coolers and i'm having so many problems... the fan is crap it definatly doesn't move the 38 cfm as advertised, and the mosfet cooler doesn't fit! i'm trying to get it on the left set of mosfets and it just doesn't fit inbetween a solid capacitor, and some box thing. it fits if i don't have the push pin thing holding it there but the little strip that holds it there isn't strong enough and it falls off! i don't know what to do.


Did you mean Thermaltake not Thermalright? The fan on the Thermalright is a Sunon 40mm moving 6.3cfm not a silentx 80mm moving 38cfm. Here are the details.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcchco.html


----------



## theGryphon

I think he's talking about thermalright hr-05, which comes with no fans, and the silenx fan he installed on it.

I'm pretty disappointed that the TR mofset coolers don't fit. Did you try the small footprint side?


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theGryphon*


I think he's talking about thermalright hr-05, which comes with no fans, and the silenx fan he installed on it.

I'm pretty disappointed that the TR mofset coolers don't fit. Did you try the small footprint side?


I think the mosfet cooler is the HR 09 not the HR 05 but I think you must be right the 05 would take a big fan.

Which model of the HR 09 did you get; the U or S version? Did you buy two or only one? I did read on TR's site that they might not fit but I guess there is pretty good coverage or is there not?


----------



## gabbo

I just had to sign up to thank Robilar and the others who have put so much time and effort into this amazing guide. I just bought an E6420 and a P5N32-E SLI with 2 GB of G.Skill DDR2-800 (4-4-4-12).

At first I could not get the system stable past 3Ghz. It didn't seem to matter what voltages I raised or which method I used to get there (Linked, Unlinked, etc). I had never overclocked (or owned for that matter) a C2D system so I was a little confused by all of the different voltages etc. Once I read through this guide yesterday while at work (that's right... I read 80 pages of this thread while at "work") I got enough tips and advice that I couldn't wait to get home.

My major problem was the BIOS version. I was still running on the 602 BIOS. Once I upgraded to the 1002, everything started clicking with this board. I was able to hit 3.4Ghz with no problems. 1700-QDR, 850-Mem.

Specs:
[email protected]
2 GB PC-6400 DDR2 (4-4-4-12) (425Mhz)
8800 GTX
Thermaltake Big Water Cooling

Voltages:
VCore-1.45
MEM-2.1
NB-1.4
SB-Auto
CPU VTT-1.55

CPU was in the 35-40c range idle and went up to 47-53c while running orthos for a few hours

I could not believe how hot the NB gets. I read about the Spirit II's in this thread and went to Fry's after work yesterday and was lucky that they actually had them in stock. I bought 2 of them, but I cannot put the Spirit on my SB as it neither my Audigy 2 Zs or my Ageia Phys-X card could not fit with it installed. I would have dropped the Audigy if I could have used the daughter board for the onboard sound, however, that PCI slot is where my Watercooling tubes have to run out to my radiator (mounted on the back). The SB doesn't seem to get as hot as the NB, so I will refrain from installing the second Spirit II until I get a shorter sound card (like the one Robilar suggested about a hundred pages back).

Ok... so that was the good news. Now for the bad news.

I guess from all of the moving around (had to install the MB to the case twice as I had to install the Spirit) one of my watercooling tubes got slightly loose and ended up dripping onto my 8800GTX while I was running benchmarks.







I just happened to notice it and freaked out. I killed the power and pulled out the video card and checked the MB. A few small drops hit the 8800 and a few hit the MB. I dried them off and let the system sit for about an hour and tried to power up. I get no POST now. I even tried again this morning after many hours of letting it dry, but no love.

I was able to test my 8800GTX in my old AMD X2 system and it still works. So I guess it is my motherboard or perhaps my CPU. Who knows where the water hit and if something shorted out. I don't smell any burning IC's or anything. It was literally just a drop or two, but it messed up my system pretty good.

I got to see my system running wonderfully for a few hours before my dumbass screwed it up. Before the leak I was able to get 3DMark06 to run. I went from a score of 8800 (with my AMD X2 [email protected]+8800GTX) to 11000 ([email protected]+8800GTX).

I am very impressed with the RAM I got too. It is not the top of the line stuff. I was figuring it would run at 800, 4-4-4-12 and no higher, but it took 425, 4-4-4-12 without blinking. I hadn't even tried any higher as I can't now.

I am not even that upset with the leak as I can get an RMA on the MB (unethical? perhaps... but what else can I do?). I am just happy knowing that I have CPU and RAM that are both overclockable.

Thanks again Robilar, Cognoscenti, USlatin and all the others I would buy a round of drinks for everyone if I could!


----------



## spinoza

Hey I just wanted to pass along my gratitude to all the folks who have contributed in this thread to help me get started with the OC'ing on this latest build. Most notably I'd like to extend kudos to Robilar for starting the thing, Alexisd for his often cryptic but very friendly advice to others, and of course Cognoscenti who has inspired me to spend way more than I should have(I can only assume you have a lovely trust fund).

I've managed to get my lowly 4300 up to 333x9 stable with 5-5-5-12 2T timings at 1066MHz. I slapped a variable speed Antec 80mm onto the side door to pump more air onto the vid card and SB which coincidentally has helped considerably to keep the CPU temps at a respectable 44C idle and 55C load.

I've learned that I need to plan the build more patiently. Some of the parts were bought in haste. Perhaps I would have chosen the shorter sound card, bigger case, modular power supply, etc. but that's how you learn I guess. The wife has the first bun in the oven (should explain the avatar) so this will probably be my last build for the next 18 years or so







. I'll be happy with it.

Also, the Senators will win the Stanley Cup in 5.









Thanks again!


----------



## Lazyd

Quote:

ugh i bought a thermalright northbridge heatsink, and a silentx 80mm fan to cool it, and one of those thermal right mosfet coolers and i'm having so many problems... the fan is crap it definatly doesn't move the 38 cfm as advertised, and the mosfet cooler doesn't fit! i'm trying to get it on the left set of mosfets and it just doesn't fit inbetween a solid capacitor, and some box thing. it fits if i don't have the push pin thing holding it there but the little strip that holds it there isn't strong enough and it falls off! i don't know what to do.
I had the same trouble with the mosfet coolers I thought about sending them back for a while then I got my jnr hacksaw out and adjusted them to fit.
I'll post some pics when I work out how to resize them.


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lazyd*


I had the same trouble with the mosfet coolers I thought about sending them back for a while then I got my jnr hacksaw out and adjusted them to fit.
I'll post some pics when I work out how to resize them.


Yes please do - I'm not sure if they are really helping although I guess there better than the stock units.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spinoza* 
Hey I just wanted to pass along my gratitude to all the folks who have contributed in this thread to help me get started with the OC'ing on this latest build. Most notably I'd like to extend kudos to Robilar for starting the thing, Alexisd for his often cryptic but very friendly advice to others, and of course Cognoscenti who has inspired me to spend way more than I should have(I can only assume you have a lovely trust fund).

I've managed to get my lowly 4300 up to 333x9 stable with 5-5-5-12 2T timings at 1066MHz. I slapped a variable speed Antec 80mm onto the side door to pump more air onto the vid card and SB which coincidentally has helped considerably to keep the CPU temps at a respectable 44C idle and 55C load.

I've learned that I need to plan the build more patiently. Some of the parts were bought in haste. Perhaps I would have chosen the shorter sound card, bigger case, modular power supply, etc. but that's how you learn I guess. The wife has the first bun in the oven (should explain the avatar) so this will probably be my last build for the next 18 years or so







. I'll be happy with it.

Also, the Senators will win the Stanley Cup in 5.









Thanks again!

Cryptic







we here to help each other.Thank's for mention our names.We have this board for some time now.And we know some factors that help a little bit,to get good results.







Anything we can help you welcome.


----------



## marc.tulley

ok getting WELL anoyed now, got my e4300 replaced with a e6420 today just because my m8s e6300 @3.3 was beating my e4300 at 3.4 by 1 sec in super pi







+ i got my new ***** hot RAM and that makes OC the e6XXX range easier (e4XXX it doesnt matter if you have cheapo RAM)

ANYWAY the max i ever got my e4300 was 2 or 3 Mhz uner 3.6Ghz with peltier cooling it into the negs even at this speed. My e6420 is stable as anything at 1Mhz under 3.6Ghz but not 3.6Ghz!?!?! AGAIN!!!! it loads windows then BSODs at a little over 3.6 like 3.68 but both chips have HATED 3.6Ghz *** chaps? heeeelp vcore ranged up to 1.625 and ram all the way down to 800Mhz n no luck


----------



## {core2duo}werd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mhw100* 
Did you mean Thermaltake not Thermalright? The fan on the Thermalright is a Sunon 40mm moving 6.3cfm not a silentx 80mm moving 38cfm. Here are the details.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcchco.html

no i bought a thermalright chipset cooler without a fan, and then bought a 80mm silent x fan and attached it to it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lazyd* 
I had the same trouble with the mosfet coolers I thought about sending them back for a while then I got my jnr hacksaw out and adjusted them to fit.
I'll post some pics when I work out how to resize them.

thanks that is probably what i will do.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mhw100* 
I think the mosfet cooler is the HR 09 not the HR 05 but I think you must be right the 05 would take a big fan.

Which model of the HR 09 did you get; the U or S version? Did you buy two or only one? I did read on TR's site that they might not fit but I guess there is pretty good coverage or is there not?

i got the u version, and i only bought one because my southbridge is fine. i tried the smaller side but it was too small and didn't cover all the mosfets.


----------



## mhw100

Darn, I can't find any HR-09 units in Canada...only the MC21 that Robilar uses. I guess it's time to call a friend in the States!


----------



## Lazyd

Attachment 48332

Attachment 48333

Attachment 48334

Attachment 48335

Attachment 48336

Quote:

Yes please do - I'm not sure if they are really helping although I guess there better than the stock units
Pics attached the last one is the bit I cut off


----------



## mhw100

Wow that looks terrific. Good to know that you can squeeze in the Ultra Extreme and the mosfets in there. Nice job. I see you decided to go for TTs instead of the TR chipset cooler. Any reason?


----------



## Lazyd

Quote:

Wow that looks terrific. Good to know that you can squeeze in the Ultra Extreme and the mosfets in there. Nice job. I see you decided to go for TTs instead of the TR chipset cooler. Any reason?
The TTs were the first thing I bought before I decided on TR's for CPU and Mosfets. Also I dont think the HR-05 would fit on the NB with the Ultra Extreme and the HR-05-SLI on the NB may obstruct the top PCI slot. But I could be wrong.


----------



## mhw100

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lazyd* 
The TTs were the first thing I bought before I decided on TR's for CPU and Mosfets. Also I dont think the HR-05 would fit on the NB with the Ultra Extreme and the HR-05-SLI on the NB may obstruct the top PCI slot. But I could be wrong.

I forgot to ask - are those HR-09 U or S units. It looks like maybe one of each from the pics.


----------



## Lazyd

Quote:

I forgot to ask - are those HR-09 U or S units. It looks like maybe one of each from the pics.
Its one of each.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lazyd* 
Attachment 48332

Attachment 48333

Attachment 48334

Attachment 48335

Attachment 48336

Pics attached the last one is the bit I cut off

Nice setup.


----------



## ruhig

Can the PLUS version of this board use the 1101 BIOS? On the Asus site, 0602 is listed as the latest BIOS for the PLUS board.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ruhig* 
Can the PLUS version of this board use the 1101 BIOS? On the Asus site, 0602 is listed as the latest BIOS for the PLUS board.

Since they are two completely different boards with different chipsets, I would say that's a no.


----------



## Magi

Recently put together a system with the P5N32-E. However I am having a slew of trouble with it. I have entered the settings recommended by Robilar in this guide but when I put the FSB to 1580 up to 1620 the boot sequence hangs at the begining of the bios reporting. I am unable to enter into bios to change any settings.

I need to completely shut down the system and then power back up. This usually allows me to enter the bios. Once I am in the bios though I can briefly move to a setting before my keyboard locks up. This happens on bios 1002 and the new 110x beta.

When I set the bios to 1700 I get past the posting stage and get the windows splash screen. Once the splash screen goes away the hard drives are intermittently access every couple of seconds but nothing loads past this point.

I am running a Raid 1 setup. Any thoughts? Do I have bad MB?


----------



## t4ct1c47

Anybody tried out the 1101 beta BIOS yet?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
Anybody tried out the 1101 beta BIOS yet?









I go it in my desktop,no installed yet.Hope they better than the 1002.The 1002 they no that good.Robilar is testing if im not wrong.


----------



## smokeyclocker

I need some help overclocking my system. I have a E6420 and 800mhz geil ram. My system keeps crashing @ 3.2ghz. I have a 700watt psu (single rail). What am I doing wrong? I just don't get why i can't overclock thisl Robilar or someone help me out here before i go crazy :S


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


I go it in my desktop,no installed yet.Hope they better than the 1002.The 1002 they no that good.Robilar is testing if im not wrong.


Yep, loaded it several days ago (got it before it hit the asus site). The only improvement I've heard (From the buddy who sent me it) is that ram overclocking is improved with 4 1 GB sticks. Other than that it seems pretty much identical to the 1002.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker*


I need some help overclocking my system. I have a E6420 and 800mhz geil ram. My system keeps crashing @ 3.2ghz. I have a 700watt psu (single rail). What am I doing wrong? I just don't get why i can't overclock thisl Robilar or someone help me out here before i go crazy :S


Smokey please fill out your system specs and I'll see what I can do to help you.


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Smokey please fill out your system specs and I'll see what I can do to help you.


Specs filled out.


----------



## Robilar

go into user cp and then on the left, click on edit system


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


go into user cp and then on the left, click on edit system


Thanks specs filled out


----------



## Robilar

Have you mounted aftermarket cooling on the nb/sb? (Good cpu cooler btw. Mine is sitting in a box for when I have time to install it).

I can also assume that you disabled everything listed on the front page of my guide?

Also, you need to make certain that your bios version is 1002

Make sure as well that you manually set your ram voltage to what is specced at the manf site. This is important as the auto setting tends to undervolt the ram.


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Have you mounted aftermarket cooling on the nb/sb? (Good cpu cooler btw. Mine is sitting in a box for when I have time to install it).

I can also assume that you disabled everything listed on the front page of my guide?

Also, you need to make certain that your bios version is 1002

Make sure as well that you manually set your ram voltage to what is specced at the manf site. This is important as the auto setting tends to undervolt the ram.



I have the stock heatpipe on the board for cooling the nb/sb no active cooling. Cpu cooler is wicked







the only problem is that even if you secure it on the motherboard it still moves slightly here and there. Apparantly this happens on everybodys system so its common for it to do this.

i have set all the settings according to your guide and i can confirm that the bios is 1002.

ram is according to manf which is 4-4-4-12-2T @ 800mhz @ 2.1v

PS: i notice that when i run othos on stock cpu speed i can her some high pitched sound coming from the motherboard :S


----------



## Magi

Hi everyone,

Anyone provide some guidance on what maybe going on with my system?

When every I OC past 1560 my system will boot past the windows splash screen and then hang with my hard disk being cached every couple of seconds. I am using 2 WD320YS. Is it possible that these drives cannot be OC pass a certain level?

Thanks for any insight and please inform me if I should post this thread elsewhere.

Thanks,

Magi


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker*


I have the stock heatpipe on the board for cooling the nb/sb no active cooling. Cpu cooler is wicked







the only problem is that even if you secure it on the motherboard it still moves slightly here and there. Apparantly this happens on everybodys system so its common for it to do this.

i have set all the settings according to your guide and i can confirm that the bios is 1002.

ram is according to manf which is 4-4-4-12-2T @ 800mhz @ 2.1v

PS: i notice that when i run othos on stock cpu speed i can her some high pitched sound coming from the motherboard :S



The high pitched sound is likely coming from the video card. The 8800gtx (most of them) do that as well.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magi*


Hi everyone,

Anyone provide some guidance on what maybe going on with my system?

When every I OC past 1560 my system will boot past the windows splash screen and then hang with my hard disk being cached every couple of seconds. I am using 2 WD320YS. Is it possible that these drives cannot be OC pass a certain level?

Thanks for any insight and please inform me if I should post this thread elsewhere.

Thanks,

Magi



Hard drives are unaffected by overclock setting changes made to the cpu or ram. None of the settings in my guide relate to the hdd in any way. One thing I've seen though is overclocks making raid setups unstable. (although its rare)


----------



## kanny

i have a concerning problem....my set bios voltages and the actual voltages in both the bios and asus probe are totally off!

i set 1.55 CPU vtt it comes up as 1.63
i set NB 1.45 comes up as 1.47 sometimes it juz jumps to 1.49!
SB 1.5v comes up as 1.55v whats going on is it a dodgy power supply but i dont think so my psu is quite good isn't?


----------



## Robilar

try ntune 5.05.18. With the 1002 bios its very accurate (except for cpu temp, use coretemp for that)

http://www.nvidia.com/object/ntune_5.05.18.00.html


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kanny* 
i have a concerning problem....my set bios voltages and the actual voltages in both the bios and asus probe are totally off!

i set 1.55 CPU vtt it comes up as 1.63
i set NB 1.45 comes up as 1.47 sometimes it juz jumps to 1.49!
SB 1.5v comes up as 1.55v whats going on is it a dodgy power supply but i dont think so my psu is quite good isn't?

I assume you 1002 bios? If you have an older bios, make certain the linkboost is disabled.

Otherwise what you are experiencing is vdroop. As I mentioned in the above post, ntune will compensate accordingly


----------



## alexisd

Up date to the 1101 bios and testing.


----------



## kanny

i am on 1101

but my nvidia monitorview thing reports the voltage EXACTLY to then ones i set in bios with no fluctuation...isn't that kinda unrealistic? also since my bios are saying im getting those voltages shouldnt it be correct?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kanny*


i am on 1101


Any changes or problems?Im running orthos now with low volt's.


----------



## kanny

none so far....


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kanny*


none so far....


Nice,thank's im testing too.What you set your volt's in bios,for 3.3 oc?


----------



## kanny

oh im doing a 3.4 now 1.45 stable ...i dno i got a 28a yet it sucks ass at ocing...


----------



## alexisd

LOL.No problem i have a 6700 ES=mean love volts.With the 0903 bios this thing need 1.55 to be stable @ 3.5,but i go it nice and cool.Hope for lower volts this time.


----------



## kanny

so what u runnin now?


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


The high pitched sound is likely coming from the video card. The 8800gtx (most of them) do that as well.


Thanks for that, I was getting worried. So any ideas on why my system keeps crashing on 3.2ghz with these volt settings :S ? (stock ram)

vcore - 1.425
mem - 2.10
1.2 HT 1.30
NB - 1.45
SB - 1.50
VTT - 1.55

UpDATE: I noticed its like a squeaky noise coming from the motherboard area when i try othos? Don't think its the graphics card :S


----------



## heliopolix

Firstoff, great guide. I had been looking into buying a C2D after my many years of AMD loyalty, and finding this thread about using the 680i to OC an E6600 was the final tipping point in my decision.

I purchased the following parts, and have been taking my sweet time assembling them, to make sure that I don't screw up:

C2D E6600
Zalman 9700
ASUS P5N32-E
EVGA 8800gtx 768MB
2x Corsair XMS2 1GB 4-4-4-12 800MHz
2x Thermaltake Spirit II coolers
2x Swiftech MC21 heatsinks

I am running into an issue mounting the Tt cooler on the SB. The screws that come with the cooler are too tall; the top one is digging into the cooler cover of my 8800gtx when I secure it with the upper standoff. I have been trying to figure out how the one in the pics on the main page is mounted, and it looks to me like you manually bent the mounting bracket to allow the top standoff to screw all the way down. The pics don't show quite the right angle for me to be 100% sure that this is what was done, though. Also, it appears that the bottom screw is installed upside down (the one under the sound card).

Confirmation / corrections / suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeffrey


----------



## alexisd

OK,speed fan 4.32 match temps with the new bios 1101,and volts pretty close too.Probe is close in temps difference only by 1c below.The bios start to look stable,as long this setting im using rigth now fail with the 1002 bios.Ready to go higher now.Im no into the 3.1 range







.Nvidia monitor no report the volts rigth in the fsb is off.


----------



## marc.tulley

im on 1101 , and is fine , any 1 know what changes this 1's supposed to have?

for the chap at the wall at 3.2ghz have you tryed clocking past it? I hit a huge wall at 3.6ghz on mine and 3.65ghz works fine.


----------



## marc.tulley

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker*


Thanks for that, I was getting worried. So any ideas on why my system keeps crashing on 3.2ghz with these volt settings :S ? (stock ram)

vcore - 1.425
mem - 2.10
1.2 HT 1.30
NB - 1.45
SB - 1.50
VTT - 1.55

UpDATE: I noticed its like a squeaky noise coming from the motherboard area when i try othos? Don't think its the graphics card :S


not sure if people would dissagree but id try :
vcore - 1.5
mem - 2.10
1.2 HT 1.35
NB - 1.50
SB - 1.55
VTT - 1.55

this may just highlight that 1 or more voltages are too low even if you dont want to continue at those voltages itll let you know whats going on
im on water so i dunno how itll affect your temps but like in my post before this , tryed a even higher clock than 3.2ghz?:


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *heliopolix*


Firstoff, great guide. I had been looking into buying a C2D after my many years of AMD loyalty, and finding this thread about using the 680i to OC an E6600 was the final tipping point in my decision.

I purchased the following parts, and have been taking my sweet time assembling them, to make sure that I don't screw up:

C2D E6600
Zalman 9700
ASUS P5N32-E
EVGA 8800gtx 768MB
2x Corsair XMS2 1GB 4-4-4-12 800MHz
2x Thermaltake Spirit II coolers
2x Swiftech MC21 heatsinks

I am running into an issue mounting the Tt cooler on the SB. The screws that come with the cooler are too tall; the top one is digging into the cooler cover of my 8800gtx when I secure it with the upper standoff. I have been trying to figure out how the one in the pics on the main page is mounted, and it looks to me like you manually bent the mounting bracket to allow the top standoff to screw all the way down. The pics don't show quite the right angle for me to be 100% sure that this is what was done, though. Also, it appears that the bottom screw is installed upside down (the one under the sound card).

Confirmation / corrections / suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeffrey



I used a hacksaw and cut the screws a bit shorter and used a different screw instead of the second brass offset


----------



## alexisd

Little up date with the bios 1101.My 6700ES @ 3.5 need the same volts like in the 0903 and 1002 bios 1.55







My chip love that number.The only thing is running with better temps,no sure if is due to the lapping i did but is running with lower temps.max so far 55c 100% load.


----------



## smokeyclocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marc.tulley*


not sure if people would dissagree but id try :
vcore - 1.5
mem - 2.10
1.2 HT 1.35
NB - 1.50
SB - 1.55
VTT - 1.55

this may just highlight that 1 or more voltages are too low even if you dont want to continue at those voltages itll let you know whats going on
im on water so i dunno how itll affect your temps but like in my post before this , tryed a even higher clock than 3.2ghz?:


What voltages do you have for your 3.6ghz overclock? Never tried 3.6 :O


----------



## marc.tulley

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker* 
What voltages do you have for your 3.6ghz overclock? Never tried 3.6 :O

LOL you dont want to know what i have it at running at 3.75 atm lol
..........1.7 baby!







still idles runs from 29-44C so if fine with it , who gives a damn if it only lasts 4 years instead of 10?







should be getting my peltier back on it soon. but with my weird wall at 3.6ghz i have 1.55V at 3.575ghz and 1.61V at 3.62ghz


----------



## cognoscenti

1.6v...ouch


----------



## smokeyclocker

Isn't 1.50 for nb a bit too high?


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *smokeyclocker*


Isn't 1.50 for nb a bit too high?


Considering its default is 1.25v, I'd say yes. Haveing said that, I had to set it to 1.6v in the BIOS (1.55 actual) to hit 1665FSB.


----------



## Magi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Hard drives are unaffected by overclock setting changes made to the cpu or ram. None of the settings in my guide relate to the hdd in any way. One thing I've seen though is overclocks making raid setups unstable. (although its rare)


Robilar, thank you for the reply. Seems that nothing I try allows for a stable overclock above 1550FSB. I managed to boot into 1660 but with the following settings:

Vcore 1.45
1.2V HT 1.4
NB 1.5
SB 1.6
VTT 1.55

I have switched to having the OS back onto a single non-raid drive. After running orthos on blend for just over 7 minutes the computer shutdown and rebooted. Memory is unlinked running at 800mhz setting.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magi* 
I managed to boot into 1660 but with the following settings:

Vcore 1.45
1.2V HT 1.4
NB 1.5
SB 1.6
VTT 1.55

I have switched to having the OS back onto a single non-raid drive. After running orthos on blend for just over 7 minutes the computer shutdown and rebooted. Memory is unlinked running at 800mhz setting.

I think you're going to need more CPU vCore as this motherboard still suffers a little undervoltage to the CPU when seeting its vCore. If you check your volts with Everst or in your BIOS, you'll find that your CPU is actually running closer to 1.38v.


----------



## Tasteles

As this is my first post at this site, I would first like to say thanks to all that have contributed to this thread. I first started reading in this thread a couple months ago and decided on purchasing this board. My system specs are listed I built my current pc a month ago and soon had it OC'd to 3.37 Ghz @375 FSB x9 multi. I now have it running rock solid at 3.42 @ 380FSB x9 multi and can't seem to get any higher no matter what I change in the bios settings. I wasn't wanting to drop the multi cause it looks like not many others have.

What bothers me is that I'm reading where alot of you guys/gals have such a low Vcore when I have to run mine at 1.53125 to keep it stable and have also seen mention of not going over 1.5 on the Vcore. Ram is unlinked, NB=1.4, SB=1.5.. I've tried upping the those values to see if I could lower the Vcore but no joy. Oh yeah, I am running twin TT Extreme Spirit II's also. My temps stay mid 50's, I have seen them get as high as 58 C then drop back to 52 or 54 while running Orthos. btw, I'm currently running Orthos 8 hr. 34 min. and ticking away.

I realize that this is a pretty good overclock but I was hoping to get it up to 3.6Ghz. I've gotten it to boot at higher but can't get it stable at higher clocks. Starting to think that I may have hit a wall on this chip week, it is a latter week but has good steppings like the earlier weeks, Stepping 6 Rev B2

I'm open for any sugestions as to what to try next, or maybe just settle for this since it seems to be a pretty good 24/7 speed.


----------



## t4ct1c47

These are the settings I made in the BIOS for 3.6Ghz on my E6600;

FSB: 1600
RAM is running 5-5-5-12 1T @ 800Mhz

VCore Voltage: 1.6v
Memory Voltage: 1.9v
1.2V HT Voltage: 1.3v
NB Core Voltage: 1.55v
SB Core Voltage: 1.55v
CPU VTT Voltage: 1.55v

Please note that the above are the *settings*, not the actual voltages that everything is running at. For example, my CPU is running just below 1.55v after the voltage droop. Also bear in mind that optimisations to your cooling are a necessity when running at such high vCore.


----------



## alexisd

OK,1101 bios stable for me again 12 hrs and goin.This is what it count for me stable.A little hot but i never use my rig 100%.I used less volts for the sb and for the,ht voltage.Than with the 1002 bios.OK people go and up date to the 1101=


----------



## Magi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
I think you're going to need more CPU vCore as this motherboard still suffers a little undervoltage to the CPU when seeting its vCore. If you check your volts with Everst or in your BIOS, you'll find that your CPU is actually running closer to 1.38v.

tct1c47, thanks for the help. Another question for you and gurus here. I am running my memtest at 1600FSB with unlinked memory at 800FSB. My Bios setting are the following:
Vcore 1.48125
Memory 2.2 increased from 2.1
1.2HT 1.4
NB 1.5
SB auto
Vtt 1.55

Problem I am having is the memtest (V1.7) locks ups 5 to 13 minutes at these settings. Is this an indication of bad memory?

I am running the std test in memtest, I tried selecting under memtest configuration option 3 memory sizing, BIOS ALL. I quickly got over 1000 errors on test one when I did that.

Apprieciate the help everyone here provides!

Magi


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
OK,1101 bios stable for me again 12 hrs and goin.This is what it count for me stable.A little hot but i never use my rig 100%.I used less volts for the sb and for the,ht voltage.Than with the 1002 bios.OK people go and up date to the 1101=









Any known benefits Alex?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Any known benefits Alex?

No really,that im aware.But i go it stable,with the 1002 i can't get the same stable setting like with this new 1101.
Anyways i have a chip that love the 1.5 volts range for the 3.5+.


----------



## Flanno

Hi,
Can you use an Evercool VC-RE on the southbridge and still fit an X-Fi card, and 8800gtx's in sli ?

Also, does the extreme spirit ii on the nb, interfere in anyway with the fan clips on the thermalright ultra extreme cpu cooler if you have it facing blowing towards the back of the case ? Can you still use the standard nuts/bolts that come with the extreme spirit II ?

thanks


----------



## Tasteles

I'd say this is pretty stable. I guess this chip is just a little volt hungry. It's a week 45G chip. I might try lapping my tuniq to see if I can get temps down a bit more.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tasteles* 
I'd say this is pretty stable. I guess this chip is just a little volt hungry. It's a week 45G chip. I might try lapping my tuniq to see if I can get temps down a bit more.

Nice oc.







Yeah you can lapp your tunic like i did.Im hitting a wall in temps too.Maybe looking into water soon.Take a look in mine.1 more thing don't trust probe for volt's,use nvidia monitor with the new 1101 bios is accurate.


----------



## Tasteles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Nice oc.







Yeah you can lapp your tunic like i did.Im hitting a wall in temps too.Maybe looking into water soon.Take a look in mine.1 more thing don't trust probe for volt's,use nvidia monitor with the new 1101 bios is accurate.

I'll update the bios and check it out. Volts look pretty close on nvidia monitor with the 1002 bios, off just a little on the vcore from what I set it too in the bios.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magi* 
Problem I am having is the memtest (V1.7) locks ups 5 to 13 minutes at these settings. Is this an indication of bad memory?

Not necessarily, you're voltages may be a little too high, try setting the 1.2 HT to 1.35v and lower the RAM vCore back to 2.1v.


----------



## NCspecV81

Okay, I had an issue with getting my system to post after 3.4ghz and figured it was my NB cooling. So I took my side panel off and monitored it by just using my finger and touching it and see if it got really hot. Well it did not get hot at all as I have a lot of air blowing on it.

Well I decided to drop the NB voltage to 1.3v instead of the 1.55v and its booted all the way to 3.8ghz - now I'm just playing with vcore and ram timings to get stable.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NCspecV81* 
Okay, I had an issue with getting my system to post after 3.4ghz and figured it was my NB cooling. So I took my side panel off and monitored it by just using my finger and touching it and see if it got really hot. Well it did not get hot at all as I have a lot of air blowing on it.

Well I decided to drop the NB voltage to 1.3v instead of the 1.55v and its booted all the way to 3.8ghz - now I'm just playing with vcore and ram timings to get stable.

One thing you may take into consideration is that the nb heatsink is not making proper contact with the northbridge. This is a known issue where the sink doesn't connect firmly over the chip its cooling. As such two things happen, the chip gets unstable quickly during overclocks and second the nb heatsink will feel cool as its not getting heat transferred to it properly.


----------



## NCspecV81

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
One thing you may take into consideration is that the nb heatsink is not making proper contact with the northbridge. This is a known issue where the sink doesn't connect firmly over the chip its cooling. As such two things happen, the chip gets unstable quickly during overclocks and second the nb heatsink will feel cool as its not getting heat transferred to it properly.


great info - I'm probably going to be upgrading the cooling on the NB anyways. Now when you got your NB cooler did you use ramsinks as well?


----------



## alexisd

Yes you better if use ramsinks all over the board.Check couples of pages back and you see.Most of us use ramsinks.
Use the swifttech m-21 mosfet heatsink's.Is in the first page of the guide too.


----------



## H3||scr3am

ok, I'm new to OCing with all these new features, last thing i OCd was a P2...

ANYWAYS...

So far I'm @ 3Ghz stable with these settings
Vcore 1.3v
CPU VTT 1.55
memory @ 2.1v

Rated FSB (quad pumped) 1335 x9 multi @3.0Ghz
memory ratio 3:2

memory timings 4-4-4-7 1T

all others are on auto

Gear:
Q6600
2GB G.skill HZs
water cooled, very nice setup i need help pushing it further while keeping the stability.

Also my north and SB coolers are TT extreme spirit IIs so yeah


----------



## alexisd

All you need is keep pushing, you fsb and you may need add some volts too.You may need up the nb a little bit @ higher fsb.


----------



## H3||scr3am

any ideas? I had it up 2 3.2Ghz booting into windows but the stability was gone...

tinkering will post results...


----------



## H3||scr3am

HELP!

@3.2Ghz stability is fine for the most part but i get random reboots and BSODs...

any one got any stability ideas?

Vcore 1.35v
core VTT 1.55v
HT 1.25v
NB 1.3v
memory 2.3v
all others auto

quad pumped FSB 1425 @3.2Ghz
linked 3:2

RAM 4-4-4-12-2T - RAM has issues memtested...

everything else is auto all suggested items to be disabled are...


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am* 
HELP!

@3.2Ghz stability is fine for the most part but i get random reboots and BSODs...

Try setting FSB1440 and CPU vCore 1.4v.


----------



## zelavon

I think this is an awesome OC and an excellent 3dmark05 score (see attached)!
I wouldnt have been able to get this far without this wonderful guide, thanks everyone and a special thanks to Robilar, you rock!
Peace

Attachment 48718


----------



## duacar

Alo to all
Thanksfor this execelente guide
I am new in overcloking, and I have a doubt: Running the Orthos which is the maximum safe temperature for C2D 6600?

Thanks for your attention
Duacar


----------



## mba2dna

At last, I sold my axp2500+ system. I upgraded the rig with Inno3d 680i and 8800GTS (Inno3d 680i is on sales here - USD166). I suspect my P5N32-E SLI has some hidden problem. After last hang up, it could only oc my E6420 to 2.9G (previously 3.4G). The Inno3d could oc the same CPU to 3.2G with similar bios setup (hence, the Nvidia board is not as good as Asus one).

So I have settled with 3.2G + 8800GTX SLI for my gaming rig, and 2.6G with 8800GTS for my girlfriend rig. The AMD 3500+ system is now for guest.

Too bad that I still could not get my 30" LCD here for almost 1 month, the DELL sales here is ... sigh!


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am*


HELP!

@3.2Ghz stability is fine for the most part but i get random reboots and BSODs...

any one got any stability ideas?

Vcore 1.35v
core VTT 1.55v
HT 1.25v
NB 1.3v
memory 2.3v
all others auto

quad pumped FSB 1425 @3.2Ghz
linked 3:2

RAM 4-4-4-12-2T - RAM has issues memtested...

everything else is auto all suggested items to be disabled are...


Maybe is time to up the vcore and the nb volts.And just in case up the timmings and run memtest again.The hz is a good memory weird and look,like you have the rigth volts.And the ht volts for my 3.5 is @ 1.40.Maybe you can up a notch too.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *duacar*


Alo to all 
Thanksfor this execelente guide
I am new in overcloking, and I have a doubt: Running the Orthos which is the maximum safe temperature for C2D 6600?

Thanks for your attention
Duacar


Mid 50's (celcius) is as high as I would recommend. If you are consistently in that range, you may need to look at a better cooling solution.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zelavon*


I think this is an awesome OC and an excellent 3dmark05 score (see attached)!
I wouldnt have been able to get this far without this wonderful guide, thanks everyone and a special thanks to Robilar, you rock!
Peace

Attachment 48718


Nice OC









You are welcome!


----------



## duacar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Mid 50's (celcius) is as high as I would recommend. If you are consistently in that range, you may need to look at a better cooling solution.

Thanks for a quick reply

I go to review the cooling because a have IDLE=37 C LOAD=58 C

Maybe I Will Lapp my cooler
Thank again

Duacar


----------



## Tasteles

I've got a question, What exactly does the 1.2V HT voltage control?

I've decided to play with my voltages some more to see if I can get my CPU voltage down. I had left the HT set to AUTO before and raised it to see what effect it would have. Since then I seem to be able to drop my CPU voltage. I'm gonna keep dropping my Core voltage till I comes unstable again. Maybe I might get my OC a little higher if I can get my core volts down.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tasteles* 
I've got a question, What exactly does the 1.2V HT voltage control?

I've decided to play with my voltages some more to see if I can get my CPU voltage down. I had left the HT set to AUTO before and raised it to see what effect it would have. Since then I seem to be able to drop my CPU voltage. I'm gonna keep dropping my Core voltage till I comes unstable again. Maybe I might get my OC a little higher if I can get my core volts down.

It has to do with the hypertransport relating to the northbridge. Set it to 1.3 and don't be concerned as it doesn't have a direct correlation on overclocking.


----------



## Tasteles

ok thx for the quick response I set it to 1.35 and was running orthos. I was wondering what the max safe voltage would be for that?


----------



## Robilar

Are you referring to vcore for your cpu or the 1.2VHT you mentioned in your prior post?


----------



## Tasteles

the 1.2VHT,,, I've seen where someone else said to set it to 1.35. What would be the max safe setting for 1.2VHT?


----------



## Robilar

I've run it as high as 1.5 without issue. 1.35 will be fine.

I like your setup btw. Lovin the stacker 830







Maybe we should start a members only club!


----------



## Tasteles

Cool, thx again. I'm gonna play with my OC some more, maybe I might just get it up some more yet.


----------



## Robilar

The new 1102 bios (non beta release) is due out today.

1102:

1. Updated NV RAID ROM.
2. Support new cpus. Please refer to: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...32-E%20SLI
3. Modified warning threshold of CPU fan speed.
4. Fixed ATi Crossfire fail issue.
5. Enhanced compatibility for certain memory modules.
6. Fixed incorrect display of L2 cache size when using Conroe-L CPU.

I should have it before the asus server. I assume that the above items are what was remedied in the 1101 beta (Supports my earlier post about increased ram compatibity especially 4 gb and new cpu support).

New raid support features as well. Should be interesting for all the members here running raid configs.

Seems that they have also removed Southbridge<->Northbridge frequency option from BIOS system clocks

What the heck is ati crossfire fail fixed?


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
The new 1102 bios (non beta release) is due out today.

I should have it before the asus server.

Can you upload it when you get it so we can have it too?


----------



## H3||scr3am

I'd like it too... mind u I like setting up my NB SB frequency...


----------



## Robilar

I should have it in the next hour when my buddy gets home from the office and can e-mail it. I can e-mail to whoever needs it at that point.


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


The new 1102 bios (non beta release) is due out today.
1102:
1. Updated NV RAID ROM.
2. Support new cpus. Please refer to: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...32-E%20SLI
3. Modified warning threshold of CPU fan speed.
4. Fixed ATi Crossfire fail issue.
5. Enhanced compatibility for certain memory modules.
6. Fixed incorrect display of L2 cache size when using Conroe-L CPU.

New raid support features as well. Should be interesting for all the members here running raid configs.


mmmm.....still no fix for the quad and no mention of a HDD fix.

I'm running raid0 but don't want to be the first one through the eye of the needle


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


I should have it in the next hour when my buddy gets home from the office and can e-mail it. I can e-mail to whoever needs it at that point.


I would appreciate a PM with the bios file.


----------



## jasvin

Here's a link for the New BIOS 1102

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...20SLI/1102.zip


----------



## Robilar

Thanks jasvin, they must have just uploaded it to the ftp server.


----------



## jasvin

As stated by Robilar,
bios 1102:

1. Updated NV RAID ROM.
2. Support new cpus.
3. Modified warning threshould of CPU fan speed.
4. Fixed ATi Crossfire fail issue.
5. Enhanced compatibility for certain memory modules.
6. Fixed incorrect display of L2 cache size when using Conroe-L CPU.

Someone on Asus forum ask the following question:

How could P5N32-E SLI support ATI Crossfire?

So if anybody here knows, plz share your views


----------



## joematrix

I have a question regarding Core Temp 0.95.

I see that on most screenshots, the Tjunction is 85C for most people, but mine is 100C. I have an e6400 as stated below, and coretemp's website even shows a screenshot of an e6400 with a Tjunction of 85C. Any ideas on why mine is 100C??


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jasvin* 
As stated by Robilar,
bios 1102:

1. Updated NV RAID ROM.
2. Support new cpus.
3. Modified warning threshould of CPU fan speed.
4. Fixed ATi Crossfire fail issue.
5. Enhanced compatibility for certain memory modules.
6. Fixed incorrect display of L2 cache size when using Conroe-L CPU.

Someone on Asus forum ask the following question:

How could P5N32-E SLI support ATI Crossfire?

So if anybody here knows, plz share your views

Loaded it up, so far its fine. I'll restore my OC and see how it pans out. Regarding your question about crossfire, I posed it above as well. Either its a typo or the 680i board supports crossfire (considering crossfire boards can run nvidia cards in sli with modded drivers, this may very well be possible). I ran a pair of 7900gtx on an asus p5w dh deluxe without issues (a crossfire supported intel chipset board) with modded drivers for two months.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Loaded it up, so far its fine. I'll restore my OC and see how it pans out. Regarding your question about crossfire, I posed it above as well. Either its a typo or the 680i board supports crossfire (considering crossfire boards can run nvidia cards in sli with modded drivers, this may very well be possible). I ran a pair of 7900gtx on an asus p5w dh deluxe without issues (a crossfire supported intel chipset board) with modded drivers for two months.

The thing is who will test it? Guys with crossfire setups have boards that support crossfire and vice versa with nvidia sli.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


I have a question regarding Core Temp 0.95.

I see that on most screenshots, the Tjunction is 85C for most people, but mine is 100C. I have an e6400 as stated below, and coretemp's website even shows a screenshot of an e6400 with a Tjunction of 85C. Any ideas on why mine is 100C??


You can try to uninstall.And installed back to see if any change.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


You can try to uninstall.And installed back to see if any change.


Well, I redownloaded the program and that didn't change anything. You can't uninstall the program because it's just an executable, not an installed program. Any other thoughts?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


Well, I redownloaded the program and that didn't change anything. You can't uninstall the program because it's just an executable, not an installed program. Any other thoughts?


You know what download speed fan and opened.With the 1101 bios,i notice that core temps and speed fan they match.Is only 1c difference.Don't forget you need the core temp lower that 60c or close,no above.Look here.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


You know what download speed fan and opened.With the 1101 bios,i notice that core temps and speed fan they match.Is only 1c difference.Don't forget you need the core temp lower that 60c or close,no above.Look here.


I just installed Speed Fan 4.32, and it is reporting temps 10-15C lower than CoreTemp... I'm so confused!


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


I just installed Speed Fan 4.32, and it is reporting temps 10-15C lower than CoreTemp... I'm so confused!


Take a screenshot and post here.Of boths,core temp and speedfan.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Take a screenshot and post here.Of boths,core temp and speedfan.


Here you go:


----------



## alexisd

That's your idle temps 48c?Look in mine this is a fresh screen shot,and look my volts.This is my actual volt's yes 1.56.And you see core temps and speed fan are the same.What bios you have?I think you have to reseat your cpu.But that look to hot if you have low volts,and is idle temps.


----------



## alexisd

Sry double post.But you can give me a screenshot of your volts with the nvidia monitor?


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
That's your idle temps 48c?Look in mine this is a fresh screen shot,and look my volts.This is my actual volt's yes 1.56.And you see core temps and speed fan are the same.What bios you have?I think you have to reseat your cpu.But that look to hot if you have low volts,and is idle temps.

Yeah, it idles around 48C now, cause it's quite warm in my apartment, and the air conditioning isn't working too well right now. When it's cool in the room, it idles right around 40C. My vcore is 1.4375, and I have the 1102 Bios that just came out today. I don't think I should have to reseat my cpu, cause I have lapped the heatsink and put AS5 on it, and it went well, but I suppose I could try reseating it. Attached is my screenshot.

Also, any idea on how I can force my Freezer 7 Pro cooler to run at 100%?

One more thing: Is it normal that when I touch the heatsink on the cpu I can't feel any heat at all? Anywhere that I am able to touch it, it feels like room temp or slightly below. I would think that with all the heat the cpu is putting out, it would at least be slightly warm to the touch.


----------



## NCspecV81

help me find a cooler!!

here's the space i have to work with!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joematrix* 
Yeah, it idles around 48C now, cause it's quite warm in my apartment, and the air conditioning isn't working too well right now. When it's cool in the room, it idles right around 40C. My vcore is 1.4375, and I have the 1102 Bios that just came out today. I don't think I should have to reseat my cpu, cause I have lapped the heatsink and put AS5 on it, and it went well, but I suppose I could try reseating it. Attached is my screenshot.

Also, any idea on how I can force my Freezer 7 Pro cooler to run at 100%?

One more thing: Is it normal that when I touch the heatsink on the cpu I can't feel any heat at all? Anywhere that I am able to touch it, it feels like room temp or slightly below. I would think that with all the heat the cpu is putting out, it would at least be slightly warm to the touch.

As long as you have fan control disabled in the bios it will run at 100%. The artic is a decent cooler but by no means even in the top 5. You may need something better.


----------



## USlatin

did anyone mention how long this thread is?

Do you mean a RAM cooler?

You really don't need one.... but... it looks like you might have to rig something there bro... maybe just get a few copper sinks and add them to the heat spreaders...

HZ's with 2.3V barely warm up...


----------



## NCspecV81

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
did anyone mention how long this thread is?

Do you mean a RAM cooler?

You really don't need one.... but... it looks like you might have to rig something there bro... maybe just get a few copper sinks and add them to the heat spreaders...

HZ's with 2.3V barely warm up...


talkin about a NB cooler. yeah i noticed my gskills dont get hot at all!


----------



## joematrix

Ok, so I emailed the author of Core Temp about this issue, and here is what he said:

Hello, You have a L2 revision. These chips were reporting very low readings when I was working on 0.95v. I have decided that it would probably be more accurate to set the Tjunction manually to 100C for thiese CPUs.Right now I'm searching for a better way to detect the Tjunction temperature, to be able to get more accurate readings Thanks,Arthur.

So, I am thinking that the speed fan temp is more accurate, meaning my CPU idles right around 30C, which is pretty good I think.


----------



## TheLegend

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NCspecV81* 
talkin about a NB cooler. yeah i noticed my gskills dont get hot at all!

Get the TT Extreme Spirit II. Best NB cooler I have used. Period.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835116018


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLegend*


Get the TT Extreme Spirit II. Best NB cooler I have used. Period.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835116018


Check post 6 of this thread. I have pics and notes on the thermaltakes


----------



## NCspecV81

I appreciate those recommendations - but i dontThink i have that kinda room to throw the TT on there?


----------



## Silviastud

I think if you mounted like this and rotated it just 90ish degrees counter clockwise you might slip under your hsf.










I think it would be tight though.


----------



## NCspecV81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silviastud*


I think if you mounted like this and rotated it just 90ish degrees counter clockwise you might slip under your hsf.












my cooler is a perfect square that has the cpu directly under the center of it - plus thats the only way i can safely mountit w/o it hitting something.


----------



## Silviastud

Maybe one of these?

It's just super tight in there.


----------



## NCspecV81

yeah I wonder if i should measure the space between my HSF and my GPU?

any thoughts on this one?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835226019


----------



## Silviastud

I think that one would fit but not with the fan on top.


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheLegend*


Get the TT Extreme Spirit II. Best NB cooler I have used. Period.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835116018


Did you test it against the Swifty product. http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merc...tegory_Code=40

This looks a little better because it appears to suck the heat up and away. The TT product looks like the heat has to passively rise up the heat pipes after which it is swept away.

This is lay person's observations and I don't know, just asking.


----------



## Robilar

This is with the thermalright ultra 120 extreme mounted. Its tight but it fits


----------



## NCspecV81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


This is with the thermalright ultra 120 extreme mounted. Its tight but it fits



yeah i dont tihnk that one will work with my si-128, mainly b/c its wider than that.


----------



## Robilar

True, the SI-128 is 13mm wider


----------



## Magi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


Not necessarily, you're voltages may be a little too high, try setting the 1.2 HT to 1.35v and lower the RAM vCore back to 2.1v.


Thanks t4ct1c47. I have started a new thread as I don't want interfere on this thread any more. I have backed my voltage to 2.1 but it has not helped. I thinkn I have a cursed board.

Magi


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


Not sure if you meant listing my machine or waiting to drop the bomb but here it goesâ€¦
New system:
•Intel 6600 
•Asus P5N32-E Sli
•OCZ PC2-8500 (was looking for the right mem based on the above which lead me to this site/forum)
•Zalman 9700 (not sure which one)
•Zalman ZM-MFC2 Multi Fan Controller (later purchase)
•2 x XFX PVT71PUDP3 GeForce 7900GS
•2 x Raptors ?
•HIPER (HPU-4S730-MS) 730W Power Supply
•LIAN LI PC-V2000APLUSII

Feel free to make suggestions!


Well I dropped the bomb and this is the list of components for my new machine:
New system:

• Intel 6600 
• Asus P5N32-E Sli
• OCZ PC2-8500 (2x1gig)
• Zalman 9700 
• 2 x EVGA 8800GTS 640MB
• 2 x Raptors 36gig 10K (need to save money)

The above is hitting my max budget (budget you say?). I still need a decent power supply for cheap. Going though some spec tools (stating I would be OCing); they state I need around 830 watts.

*What does the real world say about PS? Any suggestions?*


----------



## Silviastud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


Well I dropped the bomb and this is the list of components for my new machine:
New system:

• Intel 6600 
• Asus P5N32-E Sli
• OCZ PC2-8500 (2x1gig)
• Zalman 9700 
• 2 x EVGA 8800GTS 640MB
• 2 x Raptors 36gig 10K (need to save money)

The above is hitting my max budget (budget you say?). I still need a decent power supply for cheap. Going though some spec tools (stating I would be OCing); they state I need around 830 watts.

*What does the real world say about PS? Any suggestions?*


I am going to suggest a PC Power and Cooling 750.

There is a lot to choose from out there but I know they have great PSUs. I would shoot for 650 at a MINIMUM but anything over 750 would be what I am going to recommend if you can get it in your budget.


----------



## Robilar

Get a good quality power supply. I am very pleased with the Enermax 850W. Also excellent is the pc power & cooling 750W quad, the new silverstone line (not the zeus, I had two defective models).

This board needs very low ripple on the 12v line for stable overclocking.


----------



## drmartin48106

Robilar: the enermax 850 is to much $. As far as the silverstone goes, do you mean the SILVERSTONE ST75F ATX12V / EPS12V 750W?

Silviastud: that's at my top end. Thanks for the link.


----------



## drmartin48106

note that it is two 8800s (sli), is 750+ still ok?


----------



## Silviastud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drmartin48106* 
note that it is two 8800s (sli), is 750+ still ok?

Yup if they were GTXs I would increase but it will be just fine.

Plus cognoscenti is running two GTXs with a 750watt silverstone so I know the PC P & C 750 would be great for you.


----------



## joematrix

I know this is fairly off topic, but I trust your guys' opinions.

I'm thinking about reformatting my machine and finally putting windows vista ultimate on my computer. I was wondering if there are any known issues with my hardware that I should be aware of. Also, should I go with 32bit or 64bit? Any thoughts would be great.


----------



## alexisd

You better if you reformat,before install.And for vista use the 32bit.Im no in vista yet but soon.I don't see any problems with your system.Go for it.


----------



## Robilar

I agree with alex on the 32 bit vista. 64 bit is hampered by a lack of drivers.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I agree with alex on the 32 bit vista. 64 bit is hampered by a lack of drivers.

Am I going to have any issues with any monitoring or benchmarking software that you know of?


----------



## Robilar

Thats a crapshoot. coretemp and cpu-z have both been updated by the authors to support vista and I believe ntune has also been updated (Although the newest version of ntune doesn't work properly with our board). 5.05.18 works well with this board but I don't know how it relates to vista.

I can't comment on ATI tool but someone here should know.

Can I ask why you are going to vista? The general consensus on it is that its slower than XP in all ways and with a distinct lack of dx10 games available, it might be premature to go to it. Also if you are trying to set bench records, vista will hinder your scores.


----------



## nuclearjock

@Robilar

Happy with the new bios??? any comments??


----------



## Robilar

So far so good. Its completely stable and overclocks seem to be identical. I can only state that the bios update is likely to fix ram compatibility issues (As mentioned in notes) as there are certain brands/models of ram that don't play well with this board. I am wondering if quad core overclocking is also improved. One thing that was also mentioned in the notes is changes to raid firmware in the bios which may improve performance. I know several of our forummers have this board with raid so we can see if they got a boost.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Thats a crapshoot. coretemp and cpu-z have both been updated by the authors to support vista and I believe ntune has also been updated (Although the newest version of ntune doesn't work properly with our board). 5.05.18 works well with this board but I don't know how it relates to vista.

I can't comment on ATI tool but someone here should know.

Can I ask why you are going to vista? The general consensus on it is that its slower than XP in all ways and with a distinct lack of dx10 games available, it might be premature to go to it. Also if you are trying to set bench records, vista will hinder your scores.

I don't really have a good reason to go to vista, I just kind of want to try it out for a while and see what I think. I'm not trying to set any bench records, which should be obvious for my setup, heh. I could try dual booting, but that may cause more problems then it's worth. Unless I find some solid reasons not to switch to it by later tonight, I might start working on the reformatting tonight or tomorrow. I will probably also get around to taking some pictures of my setup to share with everyone.


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


So far so good. Its completely stable and overclocks seem to be identical. I can only state that the bios update is likely to fix ram compatibility issues (As mentioned in notes) as there are certain brands/models of ram that don't play well with this board. I am wondering if quad core overclocking is also improved. One thing that was also mentioned in the notes is changes to raid firmware in the bios which may improve performance. I know several of our forummers have this board with raid so we can see if they got a boost.



Thanks Rob, guess I'll just hang with 1002 for now since I don't appear to have any ram issues.

I'm curious to see (as I'm sure many are) how this board will be compatible with Penryn. My main concern is SLI, so it'll be interesting to see how things unfold over the next few months.


----------



## cognoscenti

Hi Nuclear, fill me in on your graphics drivers?


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Hi Nuclear, fill me in on your graphics drivers?


Whats ya need cogi???


----------



## cognoscenti

didnt you have some nice tweaks?


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silviastud*


Yup if they were GTXs I would increase but it will be just fine.

Plus cognoscenti is running two GTXs with a 750watt silverstone so I know the PC P & C 750 would be great for you.


I ended going with the PC P & B 750. while not modular it seemed to have better specs (and track record) that the silverstone.

Just placed order..

did not get a case, so I will see if I can get it all crammed into my existing case (or put wood/metal working skill to the test)









Thanks all for the help thus far,
D


----------



## cognoscenti

Well congrats, it looks like youre going to have a super nice system there!


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


didnt you have some nice tweaks?


If you're not running 165.01, it's here:165.01 Vista and XP.

I have a modded version that I've goofed around with, seems to work ok.

Your real gains will come from controlling the shaders in your gpu bios(s) as well as overclocking core and memory.

http://www.mvktech.net/ is an excellent resource for modding drivers as well as tweakiung your gpu bios.

Good luck, read twice, flash once..


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Well congrats, it looks like youre going to have a super nice system there!


Thanks. It will be some time before I can do any real tweeking /OC due to the stock NB/SB cooling... but we will see


----------



## Tasteles

I noticed with the new 1102 bios that the auto timings for my OCZ went to 2T timings. I had to manually change them to get back to 1T. Not a big deal though.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tasteles*


I noticed with the new 1102 bios that the auto timings for my OCZ went to 2T timings. I had to manually change them to get back to 1T. Not a big deal though.


I noticed that as well but no biggie. Most ddr 2 ram is coded for 2T right on the ram itself. The 680i boards are pretty much unique compared to the intel chipsets in that they can run ddr2 ram stable at 1T.

On a side note, *Chozart *now has a P5N32-E. Welcome him to the club!


----------



## alexisd

Yup and he have a nvidia card.







He no want share some information with us?LOL just a jk for chozart.He is doin great with the gts.


----------



## SpartnChief

I've done a couple of searches and can't find it, so:

Has anyone found _any_ coolers that will work with SLI'd 8800 GTXs and a creative X-Fi card?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpartnChief*


I've done a couple of searches and can't find it, so:

Has anyone found _any_ coolers that will work with SLI'd 8800 GTXs and a creative X-Fi card?


Go and check the post 1347 and look that one.Maybe you can maked work.I use that one and the x-fi extreme gamer sound card.I try in sli with some of my older card's today and don't fit.I end using the sli in the 2nd slot.I only was testing and running some benches.


----------



## Robilar

alex, how long is your sound card in mm?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


alex, how long is your sound card in mm?


Is 6 1/2 in inches.All the especs are here=http://us.creative.com/products/prod...Specifications
It's some like 157mm.Hope it help you [Robilar}


----------



## Robilar

Thats about what I thought and thanks. With the extreme spirit II on the sb, there is only 150mm of clearance. The bluegears I bought is 146 mm long which fits.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Thats about what I thought and thanks. With the extreme spirit II on the sb, there is only 150mm of clearance. The bluegears I bought is 146 mm long which fits.

Yup that one fit.I try yesterday to use the bottom slot for sli.And no a go even with my jing thin,i end using the 2nd slot.I was testing an old 6800gsin sli is a shorth, card and dont fit in the bottom x16 lane.


----------



## joematrix

Well, I got Vista installed on my machine last night, and so far things are running pretty good. One thing that is kinda weird is that my video card now runs quite a bit warmer than it did in XP. I have the fan set to 80% in RivaTuner, which is the same as I had in XP. I have the newest vista drivers that just came out yesterday. I also noticed that benchmarks did indeed go down quite a bit, but all I have ran so far is 3dmark01se and then some of the memory benchmarks in Everest. I'll report back on any other problems I have and I'll try to get some pictures of my rig up tomorrow.


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joematrix* 
Well, I got Vista installed on my machine last night, and so far things are running pretty good. One thing that is kinda weird is that my video card now runs quite a bit warmer than it did in XP. I have the fan set to 80% in RivaTuner, which is the same as I had in XP. I have the newest vista drivers that just came out yesterday. I also noticed that benchmarks did indeed go down quite a bit, but all I have ran so far is 3dmark01se and then some of the memory benchmarks in Everest. I'll report back on any other problems I have and I'll try to get some pictures of my rig up tomorrow.

It does run warmer in Vista purely because of the Aero interface. Since when did Rivatuner work in Vista? Doesn't for me!


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mhill2029* 
It does run warmer in Vista purely because of the Aero interface. Since when did Rivatuner work in Vista? Doesn't for me!

Ahh.. I forgot about aero using so much graphic intensive stuff. I guess I don't know how rivatuner works in vista, but it does for me. I am using the nvidia drivers that we just released yesterday and the newest version of rivatuner.


----------



## charger265

If any one is having trouble with heat try removing the metal plate that holds the cpu in place. Your heat sink will hold the chip there. (not sure if this has been put the thread yet) "may be it could be added to Robs 1st post"

I have have run orthos for more than 12 hours straight. I will put a screen shot up latter. The 2 hour run was just to show it is "stable" for this screen shot. Ambient at time of screen was 14c Cpu max temp 55c @ small fft's 8k

I am using stock sb & nb cooling only with a 40mm silentx fan on nb.

The only problem is if the ambient temp gets above 19c the nb gets too hot and restarts. I will be upgrading this in the next week to water cooled.

I will put the cpu & NB on water because it is just too noisy, all fans are on 100% duty.

I know i can push it further with the water but i am very happy with a 50% OC and will not be pushing it any further.
I will also put some photos up after w/c is fitted.


----------



## alexisd

Hi and welcome to the forum.And congrats in the nice OC,you have there.







Maybe is a good idea or no to remove the holding metal bracket?I though about that too,because in the bottom and around that plate,have to have some sort of heat there.Maybe if is remove free some heat.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *charger265* 
If any one is having trouble with heat *try removing the metal plate that holds the cpu in place*. Your heat sink will hold the chip there. (not sure if this has been put the thread yet) "may be it could be added to Robs 1st post"

I have have run orthos for more than 12 hours straight. I will put a screen shot up latter. The 2 hour run was just to show it is "stable" for this screen shot. Ambient at time of screen was 14c Cpu max temp 55c @ small fft's 8k

I am using stock sb & nb cooling only with a 40mm silentx fan on nb.

The only problem is if the ambient temp gets above 19c the nb gets too hot and restarts. I will be upgrading this in the next week to water cooled.

I will put the cpu & NB on water because it is just too noisy, all fans are on 100% duty.

I know i can push it further with the water but i am very happy with a 50% OC and will not be pushing it any further.
I will also put some photos up after w/c is fitted.


I'm interested in seeing some pics of what you are describing. Please post them and I'll add it to page 1 of this thread.

I am not certain which metal plate you are referring to (see attached pic)


----------



## alexisd

Hey[Robilar]He is refering to the metal plate, that hold the cpu in place to lock the cpu.Is big and cover the 4 sides of the cpu.


----------



## Robilar

Ah you mean the cpu retention bracket! Yes, I've also read that removing it can help in certain instances. The problem I've read is that if your heatsink isn't really snug, it may allow the cpu to shift slightly due to vibration. (which would be very bad)


----------



## charger265

The bracket that you fold down after you put the cpu in place.
You will need to bend the bracket slightly but it can be bent back into shape and also can be replaced if you need to RMA the board.
This made a 4c difference in temps
I have had no trouble doing this & the pc has been mobile quite a bit eg/Lan partys
See pic.

P.S. here is my new 3Dmark 06 score


----------



## cognoscenti

Nice one Charger! Well done


----------



## charger265

Thanks cognoscenti,
But i wish i had the money to blow on pc parts like you.
How is your new water build coming along????

P.S. get a sound card!!!!


----------



## SA3L

I try to install the drivers for this board in vista, but i can only se the audidriver and the raiddriver in the list. Is'nt there a driver for vista to this board too?


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SA3L*


I try to install the drivers for this board in vista, but i can only se the audidriver and the raiddriver in the list. Is'nt there a driver for vista to this board too?


Go to NVidia's website and download the vista chipset drivers there. I just installed Vista on my system 2 days ago, and it's working fine.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SA3L*


I try to install the drivers for this board in vista, but i can only se the audidriver and the raiddriver in the list. Is'nt there a driver for vista to this board too?


depends when you bought it, the latest P5N32-E I bought had an updated disc with the vista drivers on the CD.

If you dont have it go to the asus website

http://support.asus.com/download/dow...Language=en-us


----------



## SA3L

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


depends when you bought it, the latest P5N32-E I bought had an updated disc with the vista drivers on the CD.

If you dont have it go to the asus website

http://support.asus.com/download/dow...Language=en-us


I got the vista update cd, but it just contains the audicard and raid drivers:S


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SA3L*


I got the vista update cd, but it just contains the audicard and raid drivers:S


Those are the only drivers you'll need, though you may need some for your Ethernet ports. Other than that, Vista installs everything else for you from its out-of-the-box driver libraries.


----------



## SA3L

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


Those are the only drivers you'll need, though you may need some for your Ethernet ports. Other than that, Vista installs everything else for you from its out-of-the-box driver libraries.


Okay, i installed the driver from nvidia too, it seems to work fine now.


----------



## d3daiM

amazing, meticulous work friend!

rep +


----------



## jimmyhotfingers

Hello all,

Just signed up and wondered if any one had any idea or could expand upon the following quote from page 1 of this thread.

*"I had two of these boards, the first one worked fine until I flashed it to the 602 bios, which resulted in a fried north bridge while the board was on auto settings, received a 2nd board, with the 602 bios on it as well, same thing happened, fried memory controller, so be wary of the 602 bios those looking to purchase this board."*

Thats by a guy called DMan. Funny thing is what he described has also happened to me twice recently. Would any one have any idea why this could happen or how I could stop it from happening again?

My spec is: (or was until I get another mobo)

TJ 09
E6600 @ 3.6
Asus P5NE32 SLI PLUS
2 Gig Mushkin (800 4-3-3-6)
BFG 8800 GTX OC2
Bios 602 (which is still a beta I believe)

I did my best to cool the chipsets with Spirit ll's but some how still managed to knacker two boards.

All the best and thanks in advance...JHF.


----------



## Robilar

What method of flashing did you use?


----------



## jimmyhotfingers

Cheers for the reply...

I used the windows method. I think that worked ok as the system on both occasions worked for a couple of weeks then bam. Dead mobo.


----------



## nitteo

Rep + for Robilar.

Although, we might need to have a second thread with JUST instructions, and leave this as the "Discussion" thread?


----------



## Imsoaks2

Robilar,

I have to say, great thread. This really helps!! Great Job.

On the first page you say you used the Corsair C5D 8500 with this board? Yes?

I have the same RAM and am confused about the 1T setting. What timings did you use for this RAM and the 1T setting? I'm using 5-5-5-2T @1066. Do I have to drop down to 800Mhz or below to use the 1T setting?

Thanks and I'm sure I have more ? soon.........I have the Q6600 CPU and am getting the itch to OC her.........

Bruce


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2*


Robilar,

I have to say, great thread. This really helps!! Great Job.

On the first page you say you used the Corsair C5D 8500 with this board? Yes?

I have the same RAM and am confused about the 1T setting. What timings did you use for this RAM and the 1T setting? I'm using 5-5-5-2T @1066. Do I have to drop down to 800Mhz or below to use the 1T setting?

Thanks and I'm sure I have more ? soon.........I have the Q6600 CPU and am getting the itch to OC her.........

Bruce


The fastest timings for that ram is 4-4-4-8 @ 1T running at 800mhz. Although the ram will do 1066 easily (With much looser timings and 2T) it will actually bench faster how I described it.

With your Q6600, remember that multi increases are better than FSB. In other words, instead of upping your FSB first, work on upping your multi one notch at a time until you get to the top stable multi (Also watch those temps!). Once you hit a top stable multi, start increasing the fsb in very small increments (4 mhz at a time) until you max out in temps and stability.

The 680i chipset boards actually bench faster with higher multi lower fsb (Even though this board will do 500 FSB+) so try it that way first.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nitteo*


Rep + for Robilar.

Although, we might need to have a second thread with JUST instructions, and leave this as the "Discussion" thread?


I've pm'd the admin here several times and requested that they sticky this thread but apparently they are not interested in doing so









If they grant me a sticky, I'll create a post with all the accumulated instructions and screen shots and leave a thread like this one for discussions and improvements.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


The fastest timings for that ram is 4-4-4-8 @ 1T running at 800mhz. Although the ram will do 1066 easily (With much looser timings and 2T) it will actually bench faster how I described it.

With your Q6600, remember that multi increases are better than FSB. In other words, instead of upping your FSB first, work on upping your multi one notch at a time until you get to the top stable multi (Also watch those temps!). Once you hit a top stable multi, start increasing the fsb in very small increments (4 mhz at a time) until you max out in temps and stability.

The 680i chipset boards actually bench faster with higher multi lower fsb (Even though this board will do 500 FSB+) so try it that way first.


ok, i'll try the RAM at 800 and those timings.

I just upped the FSB to give me 2.7Mhz and are running 2 instances of Orthos and 1 of the Burn-in on Everest to max out all 4 cores....looks like the CPU temp is 65 and the mobo temp is 43 after 30 minutes with the case closed. Sorry, I'm kinda going out of order of what you described as I just read this post after I upped the FSB.

Oh, by Multi, you mean? CPU Multiplier?


----------



## alexisd

65c im not too sure but look hot,even for a Q6600.And yes for the multy he refer to that one the cpu multy.


----------



## Robilar

65C is the designated thermal ceiling for the quads but that doesn;t seem unusual. What kind of airflow do you have in your case?


----------



## alexisd

Hey[Robilar ]I maked 300 rep+ for all your help.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


65C is the designated thermal ceiling for the quads but that doesn;t seem unusual. What kind of airflow do you have in your case?


Typical fan in front, fan in back. PSU unit is blowing really warm air out. Its a PCP&C Turbo Cool 510 SLI. Zalman 9500 CPU cooler, hardly warm to the touch

My ATI X1900XTX's length seems to be blocking the front airflow. Im ordering a 8800 tomorrow to replace my ATI, FWIW.

My Multi is locked so I cannot Raise it, only lower it. Am I missing something?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2*


Typical fan in front, fan in back. PSU unit is blowing really warm air out. Its a PCP&C Turbo Cool 510 SLI. Zalman 9500 CPU cooler, hardly warm to the touch

My ATI X1900XTX's length seems to be blocking the front airflow. Im ordering a 8800 tomorrow to replace my ATI, FWIW.

My Multi is locked so I cannot Raise it, only lower it. Am I missing something?


Well there is one problem. The Zalman 9500 (of which I own two) is decent for single core processors but for a quad you will need a much better cpu cooler.

Also, can you stick a thermometer inside you case while under load (And close it up for a bit) and measure the internal ambient temps?

If the temps inside your case are high, a better cpu cooler will not help much.

What case do you have?


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Well there is one problem. The Zalman 9500 (of which I own two) is decent for single core processors but for a quad you will need a much better cpu cooler.

Also, can you stick a thermometer inside you case while under load (And close it up for a bit) and measure the internal ambient temps?

If the temps inside your case are high, a better cpu cooler will not help much.

What case do you have?


Ok, what Cooler do you recommend?

I have a KINGWIN KT-424-BK-WM Black Aluminum ATX Mid Tower Case. I cant get a bigger case because it has to fit in our armoire (compromised with the wife)

Looks like its about 95 near the RAM and 90 near the HD's. Any thoughts on my multi question?


----------



## Imsoaks2

Also, My Voltage settings are:

Vcore 1.40000
Mem 2.20
1.2 HT 1.30
NB 1.35 
SB 1.50
CPU VTT 1.55


----------



## H3||scr3am

multi is locked i own the same proc and even on water I've only been able to push 3.1 out of it stably, so thats my 24/7 OC, FSB is our only option, and with those ambients I'd suggest water cooling those are bad ambients, and i suggest that is because it is smothered in an armoir... if you don't have the option to let it breath some more I'd suggest water cooling with an external rad box, or possibly something more dramatic, phase?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2*


Ok, what Cooler do you recommend?

I have a KINGWIN KT-424-BK-WM Black Aluminum ATX Mid Tower Case. I cant get a bigger case because it has to fit in our armoire (compromised with the wife)

Looks like its about 95 near the RAM and 90 near the HD's. Any thoughts on my multi question?


Ok, so when you try to up the multi (see attached pic) it doesn;t allow you?

My understanding of the quads (I;ve only built with the QX6700) is that they all have unlocked multi;s similar to my X6800.

Regarding your case, two 80 mm front and one rear isn;t going to cut it. I would recommend cutting a hole in the door of your window and mounting a 120mm fan. Its easy cut a 120mm circle with a hole cutter attachment for a drill ($6 at home depot, almost looks like a compass). drill 4 holes for screws and mount a 120mm intake fan. It will cost you a total of about $15 and give a huge air increase.

You'll need

decent 120mm fan
120mm fan grill (any type)
4 fan mount screws
hole cutter attachment (use a cordless drill if you can, they are lower rpm and easier to handle)


----------



## Imsoaks2

One more post:

Idle temps thru Everest v4.0 are CPU 37 and Mobo 41


----------



## Robilar

Use core temp .095. Everest temps for cpu are inaccurate.

I added a couple of pics in my last post for a quick mod I did on the door of my kids rig. The kingwin will be easy to do and it will give you a real benefit of airflow.

For cpu cooler:

Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme (Best)

Tuniq Tower 120

Thermalright Ultra 120

Thermaltake big typhoon vx (with a better fan)

Zalman 9700


----------



## Imsoaks2

yes, when I up the Multi it lets me do it. When I save the settings it reverts back to 9. My impression was that the Multis are only unlocked on the Extreme version of the processors.......

Good suggestion, I will definitely get a 120mm fan and cut a hole. Does that fan pull air out of the case or blow it in in over the RAM and CPU?

I'll look for a new CPu fan tomorrow also. Thanks for the info guys!


----------



## alexisd

You better if set that fan intake.And set 1 more out, in the back of your case.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
You better if set that fan intake.And set 1 more out, in the back of your case.


ok, both fans in the back of the case are out......


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2* 
ok, both fans in the back of the case are out......

OK.Now you want 1 in the front intake and the 1 in the side too.With 2 out you fine.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
OK.Now you want 1 in the front intake and the 1 in the side too.With 2 out you fine.

awesome. I'll order everything tomorrow.....


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2*


yes, when I up the Multi it lets me do it. When I save the settings it reverts back to 9. My impression was that the Multis are only unlocked on the Extreme version of the processors.......

Good suggestion, I will definitely get a 120mm fan and cut a hole. Does that fan pull air out of the case or blow it in in over the RAM and CPU?

I'll look for a new CPu fan tomorrow also. Thanks for the info guys!


I looked it up.Only cpu's with X in the descriptor (QX6700 for example) have unlocked multi. the Q6600 doesn't.

A 120mm intake fan will definitely improve your case temps to close to room temperature.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2* 
yes, when I up the Multi it lets me do it. When I save the settings it reverts back to 9.

You should still be able to lower the multiplier to x7, x8 and possibly x6 though. I'm not 100% sure with the Core 2 Quad's though.


----------



## springtide

try again, the right thread this time.... 

This MB rocks! And Intel's Core Duo 775's!

Just bought ...

- Asus P5N32-E SLI NF680i SLI, S 775
- Intel Core 2 Duo E6600, Socket 775
- Zalman CNPS9700-NT nVidia Tritium
- 320MB XFX 8800GTS XT, PCI-E (x16)
- 2GB (2x1GB) Corsair Twinx XMS2, DDR
- 74 Gb Western Digital WD740ADFD Rap

Without even playing with voltages, got 3.3Ghz straight away (E6600) - just by increasing the FSB (with memory sync unlocked)

Not a big overclocker, so just running at my *new* clock speed of 2.93Ghz pretending I have an "Intel Core 2 Extreme X6800 / 2.93 GHz processor"! On full load the CPU temp seems to peak at about 57degC (multiple benchmark progs), but mostly running under 45-50degC. Are these acceptable temps? 
And I was thinking of buying the E6700 before I spotted this forum!


----------



## Robilar

Those temps are fine as 65C is the thermal ceiling.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


You should still be able to lower the multiplier to x7, x8 and possibly x6 though. I'm not 100% sure with the Core 2 Quad's though.











Yes, i am able to lower it.


----------



## drmartin48106

Quick question, my new mobo is coming in today. I know most is running 1002 and some have jumped to 1102. What would you suggest running with?


----------



## Robilar

1102. It has made some minor changes in the bios (most notably the removal of mcp nb-sb voltages) and has added compatibility for ram. Its also very stable.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Robilar,

I just ordered the following from Newegg:

Scythe S-FLEX SFF21D 120mm Case Fan (3)
Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme CPU Cooler 
GENERIC NET12 Fan Guard/Grill, chromed, for 120mm fans

I should get this stuff on Friday so I'll give her a whirl this weekend and let the board know the new temps and such......

Oh, and I downloaded Core Temp 095 and will start using that also.

Thanks for all your advice


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
1102. It has made some minor changes in the bios (most notably the removal of mcp nb-sb voltages) and has added compatibility for ram. Its also very stable.

Thanks


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2* 
Robilar,

I just ordered the following from Newegg:

Scythe S-FLEX SFF21D 120mm Case Fan (3)
Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme CPU Cooler
GENERIC NET12 Fan Guard/Grill, chromed, for 120mm fans

I should get this stuff on Friday so I'll give her a whirl this weekend and let the board know the new temps and such......

Oh, and I downloaded Core Temp 095 and will start using that also.

Thanks for all your advice


Cool. Now you get to play with power tools!


----------



## iota

I just got my Extreme Spirit Cooler, and was wondering how you got the NB cooler off the board?
Thanks


----------



## Robilar

its held on with plastic push clips that extend through to the back of the motherboard. Use fine pliers on the back and squeeze the pins together and push them gently through. Release all the pins all lift it off. That simple.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Cool. Now you get to play with power tools!


You are correct, Sir!


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


its held on with plastic push clips that extend through to the back of the motherboard. Use fine pliers on the back and squeeze the pins together and push them gently through. Release all the pins all lift it off. That simple.



Robilar, where do you cut off the heat pipe then? where it connects by the heatsinks? I bought the Extreme Spirit cooler to replace the northbridge heatsink, havent installed it yet of course. Prolly when I replace the CPU sink this weekend........


----------



## joematrix

Ok, I finally got around to taking some pictures of my system. They are all in my gallery, but I'll post a few here for you.

Things to note:

The drive bay door on the front is indeed motorized, which I think is really cool, til it decides to break someday.

I have my Spirit II cooler pointing directly towards the back of the case, which required me to disassemble the mounting brackets so I could position it that way, and as you can tell there isn't much room at all to spare between it and my CPU cooler and the GPU.

The orange cables on the bottom are fan power cables that I wrapped up with orange flag tape, which works very well for self-sleeving your cables.

Anyways, enjoy my pics. I hopefully will be getting a new case somewhat soon, as this one doesn't do too well for cooling. I am looking at the ThermalTake Armor, but I can't decide if I want to spend the extra to get the 250mm fan on the side panel. Any thoughts?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2*


Robilar, where do you cut off the heat pipe then? where it connects by the heatsinks? I bought the Extreme Spirit cooler to replace the northbridge heatsink, havent installed it yet of course. Prolly when I replace the CPU sink this weekend........



EEEk! Do not cut anything on the heatpipes. The entire assembly comes off in two pieces. All you need is some pliers to unhook the pins from the back of the motherboard.

See attached pics.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
EEEk! Do not cut anything on the heatpipes. The entire assembly comes off in two pieces. All you need is some pliers to unhook the pins from the back of the motherboard.

See attached pics.


Oh, glad I asked. Does the other part of this assembly serve any purpose? Like cool the transisters (or whatever they are) that are under the heat sink part?


----------



## Robilar

Those are the VRM's and yes it does. You will need mosfet heatsinks for those. The swiftech mcp21 (two sets) fit perfectly.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joematrix* 
Ok, I finally got around to taking some pictures of my system. They are all in my gallery, but I'll post a few here for you.

Things to note:

The drive bay door on the front is indeed motorized, which I think is really cool, til it decides to break someday.

I have my Spirit II cooler pointing directly towards the back of the case, which required me to disassemble the mounting brackets so I could position it that way, and as you can tell there isn't much room at all to spare between it and my CPU cooler and the GPU.

The orange cables on the bottom are fan power cables that I wrapped up with orange flag tape, which works very well for self-sleeving your cables.

Anyways, enjoy my pics. I hopefully will be getting a new case somewhat soon, as this one doesn't do too well for cooling. I am looking at the ThermalTake Armor, but I can't decide if I want to spend the extra to get the 250mm fan on the side panel. Any thoughts?


Nice Work









I had the thermaltake armor with the a2400 25cm fan side door and it was worth every penny. I switched to the stacker 830 because I had modded the heck out of the armor and I'd had it over a year and was bored.

Its one of the top 3 air cooling cases.

Stacker 830 (not the 832, you need the door mesh for the fan bracket instead of the window)

Silverstone Temjin TJ09 (pretty sweet case as well)

Thermaltake armor with a2400 door (and a couple of extra icages)


----------



## prosser13

Looks like a great guide, will have to remember this for C&P









And +1 vote for sticky!


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Those are the VRM's and yes it does. You will need mosfet heatsinks for those. The swiftech mcp21 (two sets) fit perfectly.

How will this work: Thermalright HR-09U Upright MOSFET Cooler??? Nevermind, I ordered one set of the Swiftech Mc21's (since Im only taking off the NB, and not the SB)


----------



## iota

So i'll need the rubber grommet attached to the cooler right? It's a little bent up in the packing so i hope that's okay. Oh, and will there be a space issue with having my GTS in the first PCI-E slot? (i'm going to get a thermalright h3-03 plus cooler on it in a few days)


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iota* 
So i'll need the rubber grommet attached to the cooler right? It's a little bent up in the packing so i hope that's okay. Oh, and will there be a space issue with having my GTS in the first PCI-E slot? (i'm going to get a thermalright h3-03 plus cooler on it in a few days)

The grommet is sticky on one side so if its a bit bent smooth it as you stick it on.

The spirit will fit fine (I have a 8800gtx in the first pci-e slot)


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2* 
How will this work: Thermalright HR-09U Upright MOSFET Cooler??? Nevermind, I ordered one set of the Swiftech Mc21's (since Im only taking off the NB, and not the SB)

Thats fine although you may want to get one for the sb eventually as well.


----------



## Generix

Hi all, have read through the thread and found it really useful. Have been tweaking around for several hours for a couple of days now, however have hit a wall (so to speak).

I cannot get past 3.5GHz

I am using the following settings:

VCore: 1.5V
Mem: 2.5V
1.2HT: 1.3V
NB Core: 1.55V
SB Core: 1.5V
CPU VTT: 1.55V

The FSB Memory Clock Mode is set to "Unlinked" and I have tried lowering memory FSB and raising it, both to no effect.

I can get it running stable up to 9 x 389 (3.5GHz) after that the system will black out on POST BIOS or load windows then crash.

I am running a e6600 with an Asus P5N32-E SLi and 2 x 1GB of Micron major 800MHz DDR2 memory (I know not the best).

I was ideally hoping to achieve 4GHz, or at the least 3.8GHz.

Am I setting the bar too high or am I doing something wrong?

Any help would be most appreciated!


----------



## joematrix

I just placed an order for a ThermalTake Armor case with the 250mm side fan and an extra iCage. I can't wait for it to get here, and I'll let you know the results.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


I just placed an order for a ThermalTake Armor case with the 250mm side fan and an extra iCage. I can't wait for it to get here, and I'll let you know the results.


Nice you start to feel the pursuit of performance.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Nice you start to feel the pursuit of performance.










I might feel the pursuit enough to format again and go back to windows XP. If I can get my processor back to 3.2 or even 3.4GHz without heat issues, I might go back to XP for performance reasons.


----------



## Robilar

We are officially stickied!

Thanks to Chozart


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


We are officially stickied!

Thanks to Chozart










About time!!!!!!


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Generix*


Hi all, have read through the thread and found it really useful. Have been tweaking around for several hours for a couple of days now, however have hit a wall (so to speak).

I cannot get past 3.5GHz

I am using the following settings:

VCore: 1.5V
Mem: 2.5V
1.2HT: 1.3V
NB Core: 1.55V
SB Core: 1.5V
CPU VTT: 1.55V

The FSB Memory Clock Mode is set to "Unlinked" and I have tried lowering memory FSB and raising it, both to no effect.

I can get it running stable up to 9 x 389 (3.5GHz) after that the system will black out on POST BIOS or load windows then crash.

I am running a e6600 with an Asus P5N32-E SLi and 2 x 1GB of Micron major 800MHz DDR2 memory (I know not the best).

I was ideally hoping to achieve 4GHz, or at the least 3.8GHz.

Am I setting the bar too high or am I doing something wrong?

Any help would be most appreciated!



First off yes you are setting the bar too high & you will need extra cooling on NB & CPU to get a stable OC or even to boot at 3.6GHz
You will have to look at what week you chip was made, it may not be able to get past 3.6G
But I think you problem is cooling. I had the same problem @ same FSB with heat on NB. (Do not push it as you may fry your NB chip) As I have done!!!
When you do get extra cooling you may need to push the Vcore up to 5.1-5.3V to get into windows (depends on your chip)
P.S. Your mem volts seems a little high, find out what they are rated to and try not to go over it.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Generix*


I cannot get past 3.5GHz

I am using the following settings:

*VCore: 1.5V
Mem: 2.5V*



















1.5v is reasonably high you realise.
As for the 2.5v on the RAM!

3.5 is a pretty hefty overclock and although fine tuning may indeed yield some further mhz some of these chips simply perform better than others.

Wherever possible stay with the highest multiplier you can.


----------



## Generix

Many thanks for your help guys!









It's much appreciated, I'll drop the Voltages on the Vcore and memory some tonight then maybe see if I can push up the memory speed some more. I'll then run some benchmarks and stress tests and let you have the results. Any advice on what speed to aim for on the memory it is rated at 800MHz? (Based on running the cpu @ 3.5GHz <9 x 389> )


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


We are officially stickied!

Thanks to Chozart










Congrat's[Robilar in the guide,is a sticky.Now all the new owners of this,mobo have another place to get information.







,and for the group thank's to everyone.







And this board is been use for some WR too.http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=181144
Check this thread.http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...4&postcount=32


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*

















Wherever possible stay with the highest multiplier you can.


Careful here..

Your cpu may decide it's happy at 3.5ghz or whatever without further vcore. Usually in circumstances such as this, you have to apply core voltage in an exponential manner to achieve higher clocks which can become a problem with respect to cooling and electron migration, (chip life).

But your board still may have more headroom with regard to fsb. Lowering the multiplier and raising fsb to achieve the same cpu clock speed can result in higher memory bandwidth depending on the strap you're on. You can check this with SiSoft Sandra Lite..

Higher memory bandwidth in many instances will improve performance in games as well as benchmarks. Ultimately it's all a matter of trial (and error). But staying with the highest multiplier is not a hard fast rule of thumb that you should follow.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Hey guys, 2 questions:

When installing XP, do i need to press F6 to install the drivers for my WD Raptor 150 Hard Drive?

and, when Installing the chipset drivers for this Mobo, do I need to install the SW IDE driver ( i think thats whats its called!)??

Thanks.

Oh, I got my Ultra 120 Extreme and 120mm case fans today!!! cant wait for Friday!!!!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2* 
Hey guys, 2 questions:

When installing XP, do i need to press F6 to install the drivers for my WD Raptor 150 Hard Drive?

and, when Installing the chipset drivers for this Mobo, do I need to install the SW IDE driver ( i think thats whats its called!)??

Thanks.

Oh, I got my Ultra 120 Extreme and 120mm case fans today!!! cant wait for Friday!!!!

No F6 is if you are installing raid drivers.

Install the SW IDE driver only if you have ide drives (like you dvd for example). If you are all sata then you are fine without it.


----------



## Robilar

Finally got some time to install my new toy. Seeing as anandtech got 3.96 ghz with the thermalright ultra 120 extreme on an evga 680i board with an X6800 using a much lower CFM fan (I'll be using the Silverstone FM121 in the pic, 110 CFM







), I am hopeful of reaching a similar stable OC with my X6800.

(Rubs hands and prepares to rip his rig apart)

Anyone interested in a Zalman 9500 cheap? (My 9700 will go into my kids computer)


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
No F6 is if you are installing raid drivers.

Install the SW IDE driver only if you have ide drives (like you dvd for example). If you are all sata then you are fine without it.


Ok, cool, Im not using RAID or any IDE drives. On your advice to speed up boot times, i bought a SATA DVD burner and ditched my old one.

Speaking of booting, my setup seems to take forever to boot into windows. IDE is disabled in BIOS. I ran BootVis, oddly i got an error in bootvis (didnt catch it) after the first reboot so I couldn't see the boot times for anything. I'm thinking maybe its something with the ATI drivers?? which are getting uninstalled since I just got my 8800 today.....any thoughts??

Oh and what I usually do is install XP, test everything and get everything stable if I'm OCing, then reinstall XP fresh so Im thinking it might magically disappear?

Another thing that doesn't really annoy me as much I don't understand it is that when I turn on the power, I see the fans spinning but I don't hear the "Beep" for like 5-10 seconds, then it starts booting. After I get everything set up and reinstall XP, I usually disconnect the speaker anyway but would like to see in anyone else here has encountered this and has any fixes.........


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Finally got some time to install my new toy. Seeing as anandtech got 3.96 ghz with the thermalright ultra 120 extreme on an evga 680i board with an X6800 using a much lower CFM fan (I'll be using the Silverstone FM121 in the pic, 110 CFM







), I am hopeful of reaching a similar stable OC with my X6800.

(Rubs hands and prepares to rip his rig apart)

Anyone interested in a Zalman 9500 cheap? (My 9700 will go into my kids computer)



NICE







U gonna post some pix???? I'm kinda confused as to which side the fan goes on. The instructions and website dont tell you.......


----------



## canadazenmaster

I've read almost every post of this 147 page thread, as I wait for my new rig on order in my sig. I chose this system specifically because of Robilar and all of the information he has posted in conjunction with reviews from various overclocker sites, anandtech, tomshardware, newegg for user reviews etc. My specific thanks to Robilar for making everything easier to deal with - the wait times are killer here so I have to be sure of what I order ahead of time and make sure theres no problems, low chance for DOA, no compatibility issues etc.

Everything is ordered and in Canada that takes forever to come in, and I just had news that Bigfootcomputers doesn't have any swiftech mosfet heatsinks in for at least 3 weeks. I am stumped as to what to get for an alternative in Canada.

Bfc may have some thermalright HR-09's in stock, but I do not know if they will fit under my Zalman 9500AT. It is very hard to get any kind of after-market cooling (Vancouver Island here), and I need an alternative to the swiftech heatsinks Robilar mentioned in his OP.

Anyone have suggestions of what will fit and where I can get it within 2 weeks here in Canada?

HR-09U
- Dimension : L84 x W17 x H48
- Weigh t: 90g

HR-09S
- Dimension : L84 x W32.3 x H48
- Weight : 90g (heatsink only)

They are listed as compatible with the p5n32-e sli plus, 2 pieces for top and side, but that doesn't include the Zalman 9500 AT scrunching everything up. Can anyone with a Zalman fan (I believe the 9700 is a bit larger then the 9500 so it would be just as good an estimate), measure their clearance and dimensions to see if that would fit? I assume 48H means 48mm high which seems small and might fit? If they do fit would it be best to get the slanted or upright?

I can't measure it myself because I am already waiting 4 weeks for my rig from atic.ca (love the prices there - not so hot on service, or product lines carried though), and so I need to get a set of coolers for those VRMs as I don't want to wait another 4 weeks just to get some coolers in so I can even see if my motherboard/system components are going to be fully functional or DOA and RMA them lol.

Thanks everyone, I've been keeping notes on all the people with good contributions and what to do with my setup!


----------



## Robilar

One of the members who has posted here (can't remember who) is using the HR-09 mosfet coolers. (I'll check back)


----------



## canadazenmaster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


One of the members who has posted here (can't remember who) is using the HR-09 mosfet coolers. (I'll check back)


Do you remember back when you had the Zalman installed, if there was 5cm of clearance under the upper board fins? It seems like the ones on the side won't collide, but perhaps the ones on top would.

Can I run the VRMs naked and still overclock a little until I can get some swiftech VRMs? (ETA 4 weeks). Can I use any kind of ramsinks for VGA cards?

E.g. Could I use these: http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merc...Category_Code=

Or these: 
http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merc...Category_Code=

Also, are there 8 mosfets to cool in total, or 16? e.g. are the swiftech coolers covering 2 mosfets per heatsink? So if the above ramsinks would work, I'd need 16 of them?

Thanks for everything, looking forward to putting this together. BF2 is suffering on my current rig.


----------



## joematrix

canadazenmaster said:


> Can I run the VRMs naked and still overclock a little until I can get some swiftech VRMs? (ETA 4 weeks). Can I use any kind of ramsinks for VGA cards?
> QUOTE]
> 
> Well, I have been running my VRMs naked for several weeks and don't plan on buying any heatsinks for them anytime soon. However, my CPU cooler kinda directs some air down that way and within a few days I should have my ThermalTake Armor case and then have plenty of airflow through the system. So, you should be pretty safe running them naked for a while as long as you have some air circulation going on in that area.


----------



## alexisd

I not recommend try to use oc naked,@ least use the vga ramsinks.Yeah you can use the ramsinks,no problems.Easy with the thermal tape is no that good.Try to install only once.


----------



## Robilar

I tried it too with some thermaltake ramsinks, they would not stick no matter what.


----------



## canadazenmaster

Should I put some arctic ceramique or some other permanent bond method? I guess that would void a future RMA though. What about purchasing some better tape from bigfootcomputers?

Also, do I need 16 of them or 8? I'm assuming 16.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *canadazenmaster*


Should I put some arctic ceramique or some other permanent bond method? I guess that would void a future RMA though. What about purchasing some better tape from bigfootcomputers?


the tape from bigfoot is crap. I tried it to re-attach some video card ramsinks that came with a zalman vf-700 and they wouldn't stick at all.

The bonding ceramique is tricky stuff. It works but you'll never get the ceramique off if you have to return the board for rma.


----------



## canadazenmaster

I think I will go with 2 sets of 8 of these: 
http://www.bigfootcomputers.com/Merc...Category_Code=

And some aluminum ceramique so I don't short any pins out by accident. Those ramsinks come with thermaltape, so if I can apply them once and get them to stick, great no worries about RMA later and I can test the mobo out long enough to see if its going to be suspect for RMA or if it seems stable and good. If the tape fails after a few transports or just plain doesn't work, I will get the computer up and running under non-OC and make sure its stable as a rock and then worry about applying the heatsinks with ceramique later.

Nobody has answered me if I need 16 in total, so I am just going to go with that as it is the safest bet.

Thanks everyone, I hope this solves my problem!


----------



## Robilar

yes you need 16. I almost bought those but the mcp21 sets fit perfectly (no stock as you mentioned though)


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
One of the members who has posted here (can't remember who) is using the HR-09 mosfet coolers. (I'll check back)

Robilar,

Does it matter that your NB cooler is blowing right into the CPU heatsink? I'm thinking if pointing it to the back of the case or is there a limitation when you mount it?


----------



## drmartin48106

I think I killed my scroll wheel!

I was looking though _all_ the posts for I thought that there was a pick on applying paste to the e6600. Well I could not find it but I do remember that just apply aprox 1cm from left to right, or was it from top to bottom...?

Can someone please advise?


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2* 
Robilar,

Does it matter that your NB cooler is blowing right into the CPU heatsink? I'm thinking if pointing it to the back of the case or is there a limitation when you mount it?

Check a few pages back at one of my posts with pictures attached. I managed to get the Spirit blowing towards the back of the case, but it was not easy and there is not much clearance. The picture and post should help you though.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drmartin48106* 
I think I killed my scroll wheel!

I was looking though _all_ the posts for I thought that there was a pick on applying paste to the e6600. Well I could not find it but I do remember that just apply aprox 1cm from left to right, or was it from top to bottom...?

Can someone please advise?

Left to right if you have a Quad core.
Top to Bottom for a Core 2


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joematrix* 
Check a few pages back at one of my posts with pictures attached. I managed to get the Spirit blowing towards the back of the case, but it was not easy and there is not much clearance. The picture and post should help you though.


Thanks. I'm hoping I can get it blowing to the back like yours. Any advice since you've been through this already?


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2* 
Thanks. I'm hoping I can get it blowing to the back like yours. Any advice since you've been through this already?

Well, like I said in that post, you will have to disassemble the mounting hardware to get the one moving bracket in between the heatpipes. This requires a little trickery to get the screw in the middle out and then back in. If you can figure that out, you're good to go.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


Well, like I said in that post, you will have to disassemble the mounting hardware to get the one moving bracket in between the heatpipes. This requires a little trickery to get the screw in the middle out and then back in. If you can figure that out, you're good to go.


Great. Thanks, will let you u know how it goes.


----------



## iota

So I think I have everything back to normal now in my system. My idle temps are 33-35 and load at 53-48 (core temp has lower temps than speedfan). I'm using the stock heatsink as my zalman seems to have crapped out on me, can I expect to get to 3GHz on stock? Or should I invest in another heatsink?


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iota*


So I think I have everything back to normal now in my system. My idle temps are 33-35 and load at 53-48 (core temp has lower temps than speedfan). I'm using the stock heatsink as my zalman seems to have crapped out on me, can I expect to get to 3GHz on stock? Or should I invest in another heatsink?


3Ghz is a possibilty.....i can do that on the stock cooler no problem with my E6600, although i would still invest in a better cooler later on.


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2* 
Left to right if you have a Quad core.
Top to Bottom for a Core 2

Thanks,
Its a core2. Just so to make sure... apply a line aprox 1 cm long (in the center) perpendicular to the expansion slots.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


Thanks,
Its a core2. Just so to make sure... apply a line aprox 1 cm long (in the center) perpendicular to the expansion slots.


parrallel if you mean the pci slots.

For your Core 2 duo, the line should run perpendicular to the RAM. The Ram on this mobo is running left to right (horizontal), the line of Thermal Paste should run perp to that or Vertical.

Hope that makes sense?


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2*


parrallel if you mean the pci slots.

For your Core 2 duo, the line should run perpendicular to the RAM. The Ram on this mobo is running left to right (horizontal), the line of Thermal Paste should run perp to that or Vertical.

Hope that makes sense?


Yes that make sense. It does not seem like enough (1 cm), but I guess it spreads out (farliy thin) when the cooler it attached.

Thanks again,
D


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2* 
Thanks. I'm hoping I can get it blowing to the back like yours. Any advice since you've been through this already?

As you can see my thermaltake spirit blows away from the cpu.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
As you can see my thermaltake spirit blows away from the cpu.

But then it blows directly onto the graphics card, which is already plenty hot by itself. That's why I forced mine to blow towards the back of the case where the hot air can just get sucked out.


----------



## Robilar

The 8800gtx has a very high operating temp limit. My card overclocked runs at a max load of 69C. Thats with the fan facing it. No big deal.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


Yes that make sense. It does not seem like enough (1 cm), but I guess it spreads out (farliy thin) when the cooler it attached.

Thanks again,
D



I know, I thought the same thing, but its all good.

Bruce


----------



## iota

Robilar, 
How difficult was it for you to get the 120 extreme on there, i'm considering getting one, but i'm not so sure about the size being a problem.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iota*


Robilar, 
How difficult was it for you to get the 120 extreme on there, i'm considering getting one, but i'm not so sure about the size being a problem.


Ok the adventure begins:

the following takes place at 2:45 this afternoon (We'll make it like an episode of 24)

Opened my coolermaster stacker, removed the motherboard tray and disassembled the motherboard and zalman fan (and removed wiring for the zalman fanmate)

3:15 (following takes place etc). Begin reading diagrams for the thermalright. looks like a piece of cake (always beware when this happens)

3:22 (got snack) Have to pick up daughter in half hour from school but figure I can do it easily (at this point you know for sure I'm a guy)

3:23 install back plate, after cleaning off old as5 re-apply new as5. Put on the anti-vibration stickies (they are very tiny for big hands geez).

3:28 Trying to figure out how the bloody wire brackets will hold the fan in place!!!

3:58 race to get daughter from school

4:25 I'm back. Still can't figure out the wires.

4:45 Finally realize that the fan I am using has solid corners and prevents the wires from going into the correct spot (between the edges of the fan frame). Nowhere is this mentioned in the 1 page documentation!

4:48 Time for power tools!! Get out a jigsaw and proceed to cut out the corners of the silverstone fan. Manage not to cut the wires or myself. Fan looks like crap now but no window in the case so who cares? (other than me!)

5:01 fan now mounts correctly. Proceed to attach the heatsink. Then realize that the wires on the nb side are going to hit my thermaltake spirit II.

5:22 (10 minutes of swearing in there). Remove everything again and bend wire for thermalright so it won't hit anything.

5:28 begin to reassemble. So far so good. Put the motherboard back on its tray. Slide everything in. Re-wire everything.

5:56 Install the backplate which has the fan control (This fan is a mini-jet engine at 2900 rpm/110 CFM, needs to be turned down so the neighbours don't complain. Kinda sounds like a shopvac actually...)

6:06 Fire it up. Everything works! (Didn't forget anything for once). While sitting with a dumb grin on my face looking into the open side of my case I put my hand in to feel the airflow of the silverstone and realized i mounted it backwards! I even marked the airflow side but forgot the mark.

6:16 (more swearing, I also am likely going to hell now. at least its a dry heat...). Take the fan off (Very hard with clearance with the nb cooler) and reverse it.

6:22 Ok fire it up again and its working. Check the fan controller knob, works perfectly.

6:24. I start looking at the thermalright and realize the bloody thing is really tall... Will the door with the 4 120mm fans run into it? (this is usually the cliffhanger part but im lazy here). Sure enough the door bangs right into the heatsink... ARGH!

6:26 (too angry to swear now, wishing I was a postal worker). Take out one of the fans and its mount (fortunately coolermaster made them removable).

6:30 It fits!! (with literally 2mm to spare).

Put it all together and it works perfectly.

Results, running at 3.724 (14x multi 266 fsb) @ 1.47 Vcore, my load temps in orthos are stable at 53C (with ambient of 24c in room). normal load temps (gaming) are high 40's, idle at this level is 40C.

My next step is to start upping the vcore gradually in conjunction with fsb increases with a goal of 3.9 ghz.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Ok the adventure begins:

the following takes place at 2:45 this afternoon (We'll make it like an episode of 24)

My next step is to start upping the vcore gradually in conjunction with fsb increases with a goal of 3.9 ghz.


Wow, talk about a tight fit.... I still can't wait to get my Thermaltake armor case! Too bad it won't be here til monday. I'll put some pics up Monday night for everyone to show you how the install goes.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


Wow, talk about a tight fit.... I still can't wait to get my Thermaltake armor case! Too bad it won't be here til monday. I'll put some pics up Monday night for everyone to show you how the install goes.


I had the armor for over a year. It was a great case (I recently gave it to my cousin). One thing that may be an issue is clearance with the thermalright if you have the 25cm door fan.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


I had the armor for over a year. It was a great case (I recently gave it to my cousin). One thing that may be an issue is clearance with the thermalright if you have the 25cm door fan.


Well, my artic freezer 7 pro isn't nearly as tall as the thermalright and I don't plan on upgrading that anytime soon so I should be alright.


----------



## drmartin48106

Day 1...
1.Ordered equipment
2.Pulled out components from old case (opted for second 8800 instead of case)
3.Realized that air flow was going to be more of an issue
4.Got out air grinder, dermal, etc. (grunt! grunt!)
5.Proceeded to work on case (few mishaps but ok)
6.First coat of paint complete
7.Received new computer (components)
8.Rushed the remainder coats and clear coat... its shinny








9.Mounted Zalman 9700 (man that's huge&#8230; I'm been working with blades for too long)
10.Droped mobo&#8230; at first inspection looked ok&#8230;
11.Proceeded to fit in case
12.Noticed ports did not line up and back hmm. Tried a little longer more&#8230;
13.Pulled mobo
14.Its bent&#8230; not the components but the circuit board!
15.Removed Zalmen, CPU, mem.
16.Boxing up to ship back tonight.

Will show pics after system is built (no means to download them).


----------



## jasvin

BIOS version 1103 is here...

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...20SLI/1103.zip

1.Fix it fails to resume from S3 mode by PS2 Keyboard.
2.Enhance compatibility for certain memory modules.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jasvin* 
BIOS version 1103 is here...

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...20SLI/1103.zip

1.Fix it fails to resume from S3 mode by PS2 Keyboard.
2.Enhance compatibility for certain memory modules.

It seems that ram compatibility is driving the frequent bios updates.


----------



## H3||scr3am

this stable or beta?


----------



## alexisd

Loaded 1103 and testing.


----------



## brb....Godot

Hello folks; I'm brand new to this forum and oc'ing as well. I've "lurked" in this thread for a coupla days now and good ol' Robilar did a great sales job as you can tell by my system details. I'd like to offer a small contribution at this time.... There's a small chain of stores here in Ontario Can called Plug and Play who are selling the Extreme X6800 for $533.50 Can. if you walk in and purchase. It goes for $550 ordering online> How do I know this? I just ordered a lot of my gear from them. The online catalog looks fairly limited but they can and will order other stuff in. Great prices,I always hunt for deals and end up back with them.
http://www.yesplay.com

Anyway, just thought I'd throw that in for y'all. My gear arrives this Tues or Wed. I can't wait after reading all this great info. Thanks to Robilar and all you others who devote so much time to helping us noobs.


----------



## Robilar

Glad you appreciate the guide. How in the blue hell are they able to charge $500 below what other retailers are selling it for? I have a dealer account with ingram micro here in Canada (They supply all of the intel retail box cpu;s to all of the tier 1 distributors in Canada). Dealer cost on the chip is $912 cdn.

Some advice (I had a computer business for 10 years) is that this is too good to be true. If you actually get the product you requested, call intel once you get it and verify that its a geniune retail box product under full warranty. Give them the serial number and have them check it.

There is a ton of grey market stuff out there and I'd hate to see a fellow canadian ripped off.

If it turns out to be legit, then you got a great deal. Post back because I'd buy a couple and sell them on ebay new and make $250 profit.


----------



## brb....Godot

They're legit, been dealing with them for over 5 yrs, never been steered wrong. they just got a new reseller status from Intel, for what that's worth. actually it was the first thing I asked when i called and ordered the parts today. cuz everyone else is at least double theirs.


----------



## Robilar

In that case, its a great deal (And nice to meet you as well). I'd still verify with intel if I were you. Nice system specs btw









Out of curiousity, what was their explanation for selling it so much cheaper than even the huge US vendors like newegg?


----------



## brb....Godot

I will check it out for sure. I pored over all kinds of websites and there's nothing even close. could they have gooten a sweet deal on those chips for being a top seller? the rest of their cpu prices are pretty much in line it seems.


----------



## brb....Godot

missed the second question, I truly have no idea about that particular chip, Jon the guy I talked to said they sell tons of them.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brb....Godot*


I will check it out for sure. I pored over all kinds of websites and there's nothing even close. could they have gooten a sweet deal on those chips for being a top seller? the rest of their cpu prices are pretty much in line it seems.


No. ASI Partner here in markham is a tier one intel certified oem in canada. They buy _hundreds_ of intel cpu's monthly and get the best pricing structure from Ingram. There is no way this 3 store chain could match ASI for volumes. Asi price is $936.

ASI did 1.1 Billion in sales last year. If they can't get that kind of pricing, this company certainly can't.

http://www.asipartner.com/Company.htm


----------



## brb....Godot

That's interesting, I'll give the guys the third degree when i go down to Barrie to pick up the gear. They've never steered me wrong though.... but who knows?


----------



## Robilar

If its legit then you got a hell of a deal. I hope it works out well for you


----------



## brb....Godot

Robilar I just phoned Plug & Play again and questioned them about the price on that X6800. What I was told is that the owner of the company is a Huge buyer of chips. He has actually Sold to places like Ingram etc. He'll place orders for a coupla thousand chips at a time and sell to other companies. Apparently because he's a Intel Channel Partner Premier he gets all kinds of deals. He even has one of the new quad cores about to be released sitting on his desk already.
I don't know if this explains it fully.... but it sure makes more sense to me after hearing that. You had the last 8 remaining hairs on my head stand up when you mentioned grey market. The guy I talked to is going to check into more for me but that's the poop on the X6800 as of now.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brb....Godot* 
Robilar I just phoned Plug & Play again and questioned them about the price on that X6800. What I was told is that the owner of the company is a Huge buyer of chips. He has actually Sold to places like Ingram etc. He'll place orders for a coupla thousand chips at a time and sell to other companies. Apparently because he's a Intel Channel Partner Premier he gets all kinds of deals. He even has one of the new quad cores about to be released sitting on his desk already.
I don't know if this explains it fully.... but it sure makes more sense to me after hearing that. You had the last 8 remaining hairs on my head stand up when you mentioned grey market. The guy I talked to is going to check into more for me but that's the poop on the X6800 as of now.

He sells to ingram? That unfortunately is *BS*. There are only a handful of north american distributors that buy direct from intel and Ingram is one of them. Ingram sells parts to Dell. I'm not doubting you but for a guy with 3 stores in a chain i've never heard of (and I had 8 stores at one time in Canada starting in 94 up until 2004), stating that he buys thousands of chips at a time in the Canadian market is pure crap. Ingram Micro's Canadian operation doesn't even stock that much intel inventory and they are the biggest distributor in north america.

incidently they state on their site that they have been in business since 1995 and yet their website was created in 1999.

http://who.securepaynet.net/WhoIsVer...d=TeamITCanada


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


He sells to ingram? That unfortunately is *BS*. There are only a handful of north american distributors that buy direct from intel and Ingram is one of them. Ingram sells parts to Dell. I'm not doubting you but for a guy with 3 stores in a chain i've never heard of (and I had 8 stores at one time in Canada starting in 94 up until 2004), stating that he buys thousands of chips at a time in the Canadian market is pure crap. Ingram Micro's Canadian operation doesn't even stock that much intel inventory and they are the biggest distributor in north america.

incidently they state on their site that they have been in business since 1995 and yet their website was created in 1999.

http://who.securepaynet.net/WhoIsVer...d=TeamITCanada


Robilar is a corperate spy


----------



## brb....Godot

Interesting. They also had 6 or 7 stores at one time. Shut down all but these three they have now. You ever heard of Ajay Sharma? that's the owners name. I'm just gonna have to wait and see I guess if it's for real. Will know soon enough. I do know that they move a lot of stuff at the non retail level, they're always selling to small shops etc who're trying to capitalize on their buying power. I dunno what else to say other than... we shall see. LOL
I just hope it's all legit cuz of the sweet price.


----------



## brb....Godot

Robilar, I've been searching around various forums and lots of people are saying that this unit wasn't sitting flat on the IHS and that they lapped it to make it flatter for better contact. Did you run into the same thing when you hooked yours up? I don't remember reading anything about that.


----------



## Robilar

No, the base was perfectly flat (I did the glass sheet test)


----------



## brb....Godot

Thanks. as I kept reading I found out that they'd made a design change with the bracket After it was available on the street. those folks must've gotten an early version.


----------



## Robilar

Ah ,you mean the anandtech test where the had an engineering sample? I read the same thing. anand also posted a followup article with a retail sample


----------



## alexisd

Im still testing the 1103.So far no changes,and once again speed fan and core temps,have the same reading.And nvidia monitor have the rigth volts that you set in bios.Almost the same like the 1102.


----------



## NCspecV81

kind of off topic - but is this 3rd pci-e x8 gpu slot worth filling with a budget gpu for physics or what? is it even usable for physics yet?


----------



## alexisd

1103 bios.Stable no problems.I have the same settings,with the 1101, 1102 and stable.The only and good thing maybe and hope,somebody else can confirm.Is good temps.Before @ the same settings my system was like around the 58c and now around the 52c to 55c.Hope this help.
I attach 1 screenshot of the 1101 bios,and look the difference.


----------



## nik6600

where can i update my bios version?


----------



## alexisd

From here=http://support.asus.com/download/dow...Language=en-us
And download the 1103 bios,and use the ez flash utility.


----------



## Robilar

The 1103 bios is now posted on the main asus download page and is not considered a beta. Testing now.


----------



## alexisd

Hey robilar i tested and they are stable.Check post #1523.All the same except i think my temps are better even with the same settings that i use.


----------



## Robilar

I noticed alex, keep me posted as to changes. I am just beginning tests.

Has anyone noticed the 1.2VHT voltage spiking in pc probe to 0.00 ? I get that error the odd time. Its self correcting almost instantly and seems not to cause stability issues but its a bit weird nonetheless. It does it on the odd occasion (maybe once per week) and seems unrelated to overclocking or load on the system.


----------



## DiagnosisDirt

Hello , This is an awesome overclocking guide , I was wondering What kind of estimated oc i could get with the e6420 and the P5N32-E sli version. I don't what kind of ram to get , Something with the d9 chip but which 2gb set is compatible....


----------



## Robilar

Assume regardless of stepping on your chip that you will be able to hit 450FSB or higher. I have been able to exceed 500 FSB but with higher end chips (E6700 and X6800). I've also been able to hit 500 FSB with an E6600 but could not go even one notch higher.

I haven't had the opportunity to build a system yet with the chip you are suggesting but they are known to overclock well.

With that said, you'll be able to get a signifigant overclock out of that cpu.


----------



## DiagnosisDirt

Thats just what I needed to hear. Any suggestions on D9 chip having ram compatible with the board ?

edit:: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146108 Will these play nice with the board ?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DiagnosisDirt* 
Thats just what I needed to hear. Any suggestions on D9 chip having ram compatible with the board ?

edit:: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146108 Will these play nice with the board ?

That ram play nice with this board.And if is D9 better.I notice a lot of people with the SLI edition memory are getting sick and good benches too.Anyways they make the sli edition memory for something rigth?


----------



## nik6600

Hi guys, i downloaded the new 1103 bios version but having a bit of trouble installing as this is my first time trying to update my bios...

I downloaded the bios version 1103 and wrote it onto a cd using nero (bootable cd)...I restarted my pc and this came up:










I pressed enter a few times and " [DR-DOS] A:\\> " keeped coming up
any ideas??


----------



## alexisd

Why you don't use the ez flash?Get any usb flash and go that way is easy.And safe.I don't have an answer @ what you did.


----------



## nik6600

lol ok but how can i access the flash from the bios to do the update??


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nik6600* 
lol ok but how can i access the flash from the bios to do the update??

Have your flash drive plugged in and boot into the bios. Go to the Tools menu in the bios and select EZ Flash utility. It will then search for available drives. Find your flash drive and the bios file on your flash drive and then select go or whatever and then wait and it's done. Make sure to revert all of your bios settings to the default before you flash just to be safe.


----------



## alexisd

Yup thats the way to do it.


----------



## {core2duo}werd

well my p5n-32e SLI just broke today... i wasn't even overclocked at the time... it just shut off and won't turn back on. but oh well. i went out and bought an asus striker and when my p5n32e-sli comes back i'll use it for another build. and maybe sell that build on ebay.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DiagnosisDirt* 
Thats just what I needed to hear. Any suggestions on D9 chip having ram compatible with the board ?

edit:: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146108 Will these play nice with the board ?

For these boards its always ideal to have memory that has EPP support. reason? Because it is tested for compatibility with the SLI memory function on the 680 and 650 motherboards. I have had zero issues with the OCZ sli ready ram since the first bios release (I've had this board since early december). Many members here commented on how they thought the whole "Sli ready" concept was a gimmick but what it does do is make for problem free ram.

That is a good choice


----------



## mba2dna

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 

4:45 Finally realize that the fan I am using has solid corners and prevents the wires from going into the correct spot (between the edges of the fan frame). Nowhere is this mentioned in the 1 page documentation!

4:48 Time for power tools!! Get out a jigsaw and proceed to cut out the corners of the silverstone fan. Manage not to cut the wires or myself. Fan looks like crap now but no window in the case so who cares? (other than me!)

My fan is also in solid corner. I just used cable tie to tie it up to U120E at 3 corners as I am too lazy to take the mobo out. I can only reach 3 corners...

Loaded with 1103 and seems that the hidden problem of can't oc is solved. May be the 1002 is corrupted sometime in the past.

At last, picked up Dell 30" last Sat. A huge screen that allows 8800GTX SLI to show the power at 2560x1600. I cannot find any lag at WOW and BF2142. Just thinking to add a AGEIA PhysX. See if I could find one from Asus, it is on sales for about USD65 but sold out in a short time.


----------



## isprog

Hi Guys.
Finally got my rig, just waiting on my Noctura Fans/Heatsinks.

Anyway, using using 2GB of G.Skill F2-8500CL5D-2GBHK Ram ? If so, at what voltage. On their web site, http://www.gskill.com/indexen.html, they say 2.3~2.4 Volts but that scares the hell out of me.

Any opinions ?

Thanks


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *isprog* 
Hi Guys.
Finally got my rig, just waiting on my Noctura Fans/Heatsinks.

Anyway, using using 2GB of G.Skill F2-8500CL5D-2GBHK Ram ? If so, at what voltage. On their web site, http://www.gskill.com/indexen.html, they say 2.3~2.4 Volts but that scares the hell out of me.

Any opinions ?

Thanks

Yup you need the 2.3 volts for those sticks.


----------



## isprog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Yup you need the 2.3 volts for those sticks.

Thanks mate, appreciated !


----------



## USlatin

Hey guys... I am having problems... hope you don't mind asking for a little help...

I have been getting these random freezes... the screen freezes and the last (about 1/2 second of) audio plays again, then silence, then again, and then into silence... It happens after well over an hour sometimes several hours of gaming and editing too now...

I can't figure out the source of the problem but there are some ideas:

_ I re-sat the GTS with Artic Silver... at first I over-did it maybe there is some spillage touching other mini components?
_ I got a modded sound card from Soloz2 but he's been making these for quite some time now...
_ I don't have the best cooling on my SB... just some little copper sinks
_Video Card drivers, I tried installing a 7600GT to run a third monitor but they are not compatible in XP... I used Cleaner Pro but I still get a frozen computer when I right click the NVIDIA icon on the taskbar...

Those are the things that changed recently prior to the problem appearing... I had no voltage problems, I have been running stable (before this) since about page 50 on this thread...


----------



## USlatin

Oh, also... Alex... did you say you are getting a temp drop from 1102 to 1103?

Robilar, how is tour 1103 stability testing going?


----------



## nik6600

I overclocked my cpu to 3ghz










are these readings ok?


----------



## cognoscenti

what did you set the voltage as in the bios?

Temps are about right for full load however I would say full load at around 3.5G not 3Ghz

Try moving up to around 1600 FSB


----------



## USlatin

also... a possible problem I might be facing could be the NB overheating... what's too hot?

I am hitting 37C with 24C ambient while rendering...

keep in mind I rigged some stuff together for my NB and SB cooling...
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/data/500/THE_CASE.jpg


----------



## nik6600

Here are the voltages:










Are they ok?

I will be updating my bios soon so i have set everything to default in the bios..
when i do update it i will try 1600FSB







, but it sounds kinda scary..lol


----------



## Mhill2029

Bring your SB down, it doesn't need more than 1.5

Mine are as follows for my current overclock:

Vcore Voltage: 1.35v (Actual 1.33v)
Memory Voltage: 2.00v (Actual 2.03)
1.2HT Voltage: 1.2v (Actual 1.25v)
NB Core Voltage: 1.35 (Actual 1.38v)
SB Core Voltage: 1.5v (Actual 1.55v)
CPU VTT Voltage: 1.5v (Actual 1.55v

I can do 1600 (QDR) no problem, except temps at 3.6Ghz are slightly higher than i'd like so i stay at 3.4Ghz 24/7. Besides the performance gain for the extra 200Mhz is virtually nil.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Oh, also... Alex... did you say you are getting a temp drop from 1102 to 1103?

Robilar, how is tour 1103 stability testing going?

So far so good. I haven't seen any differences as yet but this bios release may be more along the lines of ram compatibility. there is a rumour that it adds performance on quad overclocking as well but I haven't got confirmation as yet.


----------



## nitteo

The Striker Extreme Version of 1103 is not out yet.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nitteo* 
The Striker Extreme Version of 1103 is not out yet.

? The 1103 bios release is for the P5N32-E. I'm not certain what you are trying to say.


----------



## USlatin

so anyone have any ideas as to which of the reasons I listed might be %@%#^& my computer up?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Hey guys... I am having problems... hope you don't mind asking for a little help...

I have been getting these random freezes... the screen freezes and the last (about 1/2 second of) audio plays again, then silence, then again, and then into silence... It happens after well over an hour sometimes several hours of gaming and editing too now...

I can't figure out the source of the problem but there are some ideas:

_ I re-sat the GTS with Artic Silver... at first I over-did it maybe there is some spillage touching other mini components?
_ I got a modded sound card from Soloz2 but he's been making these for quite some time now...
_ I don't have the best cooling on my SB... just some little copper sinks
_Video Card drivers, I tried installing a 7600GT to run a third monitor but they are not compatible in XP... I used Cleaner Pro but I still get a frozen computer when I right click the NVIDIA icon on the taskbar...

Those are the things that changed recently prior to the problem appearing... I had no voltage problems, I have been running stable (before this) since about page 50 on this thread...


Have you restored your overclock to stock settings and thent tested?

Also, have you tried running memtest?

Also, a blended orthos test would be a good starting indicator as to where issues are as well.


----------



## USlatin

Restoring to stock and testing: NOPE

Memtest: YUP

Orthos... ok... I gota finish cutting up this short today so I'll have to live with it one more day but I'll come back to that and ask you to interpret my results...

BTW, congrats on the Sticky!!! (cough:: 'bout time :: cough) lol... OCN rul3z


----------



## Tasteles

Hey Robilar, what do you think about leaving that fan tray open where you installed the TR Ultra 120?

I had to do the same thing to fit my Tuniq and was thinking of cutting a piece of plexiglass to fit the hole. I know with the other fans running there should be some pos presure but that hole is so close to the rear exhaust, I thought it might pull some dust into the case.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
So far so good. I haven't seen any differences as yet but this bios release may be more along the lines of ram compatibility. there is a rumour that it adds performance on quad overclocking as well but I haven't got confirmation as yet.

Whaaaaaaa??? Any confirms on the quad OC?

BTW, i got my CPU heatsink and hole cut for the other fan. Looks like everything is about 20 degrees cooler! Now I'm getting about 60c at 100% load
at 2.7ghz. When I drop down to stock (2.4) the temps are the same so I have to look at my Voltage settings I guess........

I'll post some pix when I get the chance. Oh, I couldnt point my NB cooler to the back of the case either. The Heatsink on the CPU is wayyyy too big, so I pointed at my video Card like you did.....


----------



## joematrix

Well, I got my ThermalTake Armor case yesterday, and it is indeed a very large case. I got my system all put in there and paid special attention to cable management. It looks very nice, and temps are pretty decent too. My graphics card now idles at about 41-43C, which is about 8C cooler than before. Also, coretemp reports my cpu temp to be right around 40C, even after bumping back up to 3.2Ghz and raising the vcore to 1.486 or something close to that. Before you say that 40C is too high for idle, remember that the author of coretemp told me that he had trouble getting my particular revision of the e6400 to report correctly. I will try to get some pics posted of my case so you can comment on my work.


----------



## DiagnosisDirt

Anandtech has this board as the top dog in BF2 !


----------



## Robilar

And thats the cheaper plus version, not even the full 680i that this thread is based on.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tasteles*


Hey Robilar, what do you think about leaving that fan tray open where you installed the TR Ultra 120?

I had to do the same thing to fit my Tuniq and was thinking of cutting a piece of plexiglass to fit the hole. I know with the other fans running there should be some pos presure but that hole is so close to the rear exhaust, I thought it might pull some dust into the case.


Yea, it was a bit of a bugger. I don't think covering it with plexi would be a good idea. The point of the stacker 830 is to have as much open mesh as possible. A good fan will draw air in from the opening above. I;d leave it as is.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2*


Whaaaaaaa??? Any confirms on the quad OC?

BTW, i got my CPU heatsink and hole cut for the other fan. Looks like everything is about 20 degrees cooler! Now I'm getting about 60c at 100% load
at 2.7ghz. When I drop down to stock (2.4) the temps are the same so I have to look at my Voltage settings I guess........

I'll post some pix when I get the chance. Oh, I couldnt point my NB cooler to the back of the case either. The Heatsink on the CPU is wayyyy too big, so I pointed at my video Card like you did.....


I built a quad system with this board for a buddy. (he has the Q6600). I'll check in with him this evening.


----------



## nitteo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


? The 1103 bios release is for the P5N32-E. I'm not certain what you are trying to say.


Sorry, I always check this thread for Bios updates, and last - 1102 came out for both. I assumed if they updated one motherboard, they would update all (at the same time).


----------



## Robilar

Ah. Well I'm sure the striker owners would be happy at that (All 3 of you







)


----------



## Agnostik888

Hi all, just bought this board with an E6600, eVGA 8800 GTS 640 superclocked, 2gb of Kingston 6400 HyperX SLI Ready ram, Zalman CNPS9500 AT CPU fan, and an Antec Nine Hundred case with side and inner middle case fans. Been playing around with various BIOS settings and up till today was using the AI Overclock 15% setting since I really don't know much about overclocking.

Found this guide when looking for info on enabling the SLI ready memory. Right now I am running it with auto overclocking settings and have the SLI memory set to CPUOC 0% only (was finding setting the SLI memory to CPUOC would overwrite my AI Overclock settings). My post is mostly in reference to the SLI memory settings and other bios OC settings. More specifically. What do those other settings in the SLI ready memory do? Like I am given the choice of between 0% and 10% I believe, Expert and Max. What is there difference with all those settings.

Also, I have been considering overclocking but am wonder if my cooling is sufficient or if there is a way to mildly overclock without pushing the heat too much. I would prefer stability, long life, and reasonable temperatures over extreme performance and was hoping someone could recommend my best path in relation to this guide.

Thanks!


----------



## alexisd

Welcome to the forum.Agnostik888,nice rig there.I don't have the experience with the sli memory but others member,will help you about it.And for cooling is no that bad the zalman still a good cooler.Hang in there and some others members with the sli memory will help you better with that.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2*


Whaaaaaaa??? Any confirms on the quad OC?

BTW, i got my CPU heatsink and hole cut for the other fan. Looks like everything is about 20 degrees cooler! Now I'm getting about 60c at 100% load
at 2.7ghz. When I drop down to stock (2.4) the temps are the same so I have to look at my Voltage settings I guess........

I'll post some pix when I get the chance. Oh, I couldnt point my NB cooler to the back of the case either. The Heatsink on the CPU is wayyyy too big, so I pointed at my video Card like you did.....


Some Pix of last weekends project. I upgraded my NB cooling, CPU Cooling and Case Cooling (Thanks to everyone here!):


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Agnostik888*


Hi all, just bought this board with an E6600, eVGA 8800 GTS 640 superclocked, 2gb of Kingston 6400 HyperX SLI Ready ram, Zalman CNPS9500 AT CPU fan, and an Antec Nine Hundred case with side and inner middle case fans. Been playing around with various BIOS settings and up till today was using the AI Overclock 15% setting since I really don't know much about overclocking.

Found this guide when looking for info on enabling the SLI ready memory. Right now I am running it with auto overclocking settings and have the SLI memory set to CPUOC 0% only (was finding setting the SLI memory to CPUOC would overwrite my AI Overclock settings). My post is mostly in reference to the SLI memory settings and other bios OC settings. More specifically. What do those other settings in the SLI ready memory do? Like I am given the choice of between 0% and 10% I believe, Expert and Max. What is there difference with all those settings.

Also, I have been considering overclocking but am wonder if my cooling is sufficient or if there is a way to mildly overclock without pushing the heat too much. I would prefer stability, long life, and reasonable temperatures over extreme performance and was hoping someone could recommend my best path in relation to this guide.

Thanks!



expert enables epp support but allows you to change all options manually

Max is just that, it maxes out the speed of the ram (Within the context of the embedded EPP profile).

With some experience, you will find that the ram actually runs faster at tight timings/1T @800 mhz than it does at 1066 mhz and loose timings (also, its hard to get 1T stable at this speed). I;ve benched it both ways.

For example, I run my ram (which is SLI ready 1066 PC 8500) at 4-4-4-8 at 800Mhz @ 1T. It gives the best benches.

Set your ram to unlinked so that your overclock FSB does not directly imact your ram setttings.

With an e6600 OC;d to 20% that would be an overclock of 2.66 Ghz (20% of 2.4 stock). Set it back to default, input the settings on the first page of my guide. Then leaving the multi at 9x, go in and change the FSB (its 4x default the actual number) to 350 (1400 FSB instead of 1066). Set your memory voltage to the recommended voltage on kingston;s site. Set your vcore to 1.38. Run orthos for an hour and see if its stable. *I would put all of your ram settings back to auto first and change the timings after you get a stable cpu oc*.

That will give you an effective overclock of 3.15 ghz which is a good starting point.

KHX6400D2LLK2/2GN I believe this is the part# for your ram. if so, you should be running it at 4-4-4-12 1T 800Mhz @ 2.0 Volts


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2*


Some Pix of last weekends project. I upgraded my NB cooling, CPU Cooling and Case Cooling (Thanks to everyone here!):


Looks familiar!


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Looks familiar!


Yeah. Guess I should have used the white fan!!

Hey, why does Everest give me a CPU temp of 40 and Core Temp 95 gives me a CPU Temp of 60?? Could there be that much of a variation in software?

I'm testing now @ 2.8Ghz and VCore of 1.2500.


----------



## Robilar

everest is not accurate at for cpu temps (Although it is pretty decent with voltages)

only use coretemp for cpu temps

i assume your vcore is 3.250?


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


everest is not accurate at for cpu temps (Although it is pretty decent with voltages)

only use coretemp for cpu temps

i assume your vcore is 3.250?


I have vcore set at 1.2500 in the BIOS. Where do you get 3.250?


----------



## Robilar

Sorry typo. Thats a very low vcore though. Auto vcore for the board is about 1.29. If you can keep it that low, it will definitely benefit temps.


----------



## Litlratt

Another noob here. Stumbled upon this thread while I was troubleshooting a prob with one of my GTXs. Very informative and I thank all for the education.
My MB and cpu temps appear to be about right for a 3.6 24/7 but I was wondering how warm I should expect the ESII cooler on the NB to get. I can hold my finger on it, I couldn't do that with the stock cooler. However, I still feel it's very warm for having active cooling on it. Should I be concerned?


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Sorry typo. Thats a very low vcore though. Auto vcore for the board is about 1.29. If you can keep it that low, it will definitely benefit temps.



Cool. Should I shoot for CPU temps around 60-65 then? They don't go any lower than that under full load, no matter if I have it at 2.4, 2.6 or 2.8 ghz?


----------



## Robilar

Yes. The quads tend to tun at 60-65 under load regardless.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Another noob here. Stumbled upon this thread while I was troubleshooting a prob with one of my GTXs. Very informative and I thank all for the education.
My MB and cpu temps appear to be about right for a 3.6 24/7 but I was wondering how warm I should expect the ESII cooler on the NB to get. I can hold my finger on it, I couldn't do that with the stock cooler. However, I still feel it's very warm for having active cooling on it. Should I be concerned?


Only if you are seeing instability in your OC. If you test it with a thermal probe, you can get a better idea of what the actual temps are.


----------



## Agnostik888

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


expert enables epp support but allows you to change all options manually

Max is just that, it maxes out the speed of the ram (Within the context of the embedded EPP profile).

With some experience, you will find that the ram actually runs faster at tight timings/1T @800 mhz than it does at 1066 mhz and loose timings (also, its hard to get 1T stable at this speed). I;ve benched it both ways.

For example, I run my ram (which is SLI ready 1066 PC 8500) at 4-4-4-8 at 800Mhz @ 1T. It gives the best benches.

Set your ram to unlinked so that your overclock FSB does not directly imact your ram setttings.

With an e6600 OC;d to 20% that would be an overclock of 2.66 Ghz (20% of 2.4 stock). Set it back to default, input the settings on the first page of my guide. Then leaving the multi at 9x, go in and change the FSB (its 4x default the actual number) to 350 (1400 FSB instead of 1066). Set your memory voltage to the recommended voltage on kingston;s site. Set your vcore to 1.38. Run orthos for an hour and see if its stable. *I would put all of your ram settings back to auto first and change the timings after you get a stable cpu oc*.

That will give you an effective overclock of 3.15 ghz which is a good starting point.

KHX6400D2LLK2/2GN I believe this is the part# for your ram. if so, you should be running it at 4-4-4-12 1T 800Mhz @ 2.0 Volts


Thanks for the info. Just one other quick question though about your recommendations. I am using the stock NB and SB heatpipe cooling solution that came with the board. How will your recommendations affect the heat levels of those components?

edit:
Forgot to add, can anyone recommend a program that will report my NB and SB heat values?

Thanks


----------



## Robilar

Evereset will report the temps.

I'd at the very least upgrade your nb cooling (And do the sb and vrm's subsequently). This board needs active cooling on both chipsets for long term stability.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Evereset will report the temps.

I'd at the very least upgrade your nb cooling (And do the sb and vrm's subsequently). This board needs active cooling on both chipsets for long term stability.

Since when does Everest report your north and southbridge temps? If it does, which version, and where can I get it? I've been using 3.80.905


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Yes. The quads tend to tun at 60-65 under load regardless.


ok. good to know. Now its off to 2.9 and beyond......

Just to be sure, if I hit a wall, I should up the VCore correct?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2* 
ok. good to know. Now its off to 2.9 and beyond......

Just to be sure, if I hit a wall, I should up the VCore correct?

within reason...Yes


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
Another noob here. Stumbled upon this thread while I was troubleshooting a prob with one of my GTXs. Very informative and I thank all for the education.
My MB and cpu temps appear to be about right for a 3.6 24/7 but I was wondering how warm I should expect the ESII cooler on the NB to get. I can hold my finger on it, I couldn't do that with the stock cooler. However, I still feel it's very warm for having active cooling on it. Should I be concerned?

Sounds like mine before the board started playing up....


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


Since when does Everest report your north and southbridge temps? If it does, which version, and where can I get it? I've been using 3.80.905


I personally use thermal probes but I saw a poster here who was able to get a beta of everest to demonstrate chipset temps. I'll do a search and see if I can find it.


----------



## USlatin

nice! I have been needing to check the SB temp for a while!


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


within reason...Yes



Looks like at 2.9 Ghz the CPU temps are a bit LOWER by about 4 degrees! Weird, but I'll take it.......


----------



## USlatin

does anyone know what is too hot when it comes to our N and S bridges?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Only if you are seeing instability in your OC. If you test it with a thermal probe, you can get a better idea of what the actual temps are.

No instability probs. I don't currently have a probe that I'm willing to stick on the NB. I'll check with the local RS for one.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
Sounds like mine before the board started playing up....

Do you think this was the beginning of related problems?
I did have to up it to 1.45 to get stable at 400 FSB.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
does anyone know what is too hot when it comes to our N and S bridges?

There are no posted temps by asus as to ceiling.


----------



## jasvin

Can someone explain what is 'a strap change'?
Does this particular board has any 'strap change'?
I've heard other people talk about this, but i don't have any clue what it means.


----------



## Robilar

Straps are the ratios that the cpu and ram adjust to when overclocking. As you can run this board with cpu and memory unlinked to each other, straps are not applicable (The nvidia chipset still runs internal ratios but its not something you will have to work around).


----------



## brb....Godot

I've added a Prometeia Mach II phase unit to my build and I was wondering if I would need more cooling on the nb & sb because of the extreme cooling that the cpu will undergo?


----------



## Robilar

If you plan on overclocking your cpu, then you will definitely need better cooling on the nb, sb and vrms.


----------



## brb....Godot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
If you plan on overclocking your cpu, then you will definitely need better cooling on the nb, sb and vrms.

I'm going with the Thermatake Extreme Spirit II's as you recommend, I was wondering if they were enough.


----------



## draxlondon

Hey guys. I need a little help fault finding.

I assembled all my parts and turned on (no overclocking). Here's the list:
Intel C2D 6600
Zalman 9700
P5N32-E SLI
2GB OCZ PC2 8500 (2 x 1GB)
BFG 8800 GTX OC

Works as expected for the couple of minutes I've got it turned on on the bench. I turn it off. I hear a small beep as it turns off that fades to nothing within half a second as the power drops off.

Next time I turn it on, the beep is solid and really loud. It's the graphics card speaker and I'm pretty sure they do that if you forget to plug in the PEG connectors. Both are obviously in.

If I pull the power cord and reattach then it works okay, but always only for the first boot. When it's turned off there's the small beep then the continuous one the next time I turn it on.

First I thought I was just underpowering it (480w PSU) so I upgraded to a Coolermaster 850w - same problem.
Tried swapping out the graphics card for a low powered Quadro from my work PC. No more beeping but if I go into the BIOS and just watch temperatures (or whatever) for a couple of minutes the machine will hang, sometimes with graphical corruption. (Temps are fine BTW).

I don't have any other RAM to swap in but I've tried the two sticks individually and the results are the same. It's NVIDIA SLI approved RAM so I don't think it's incompatible and it's *really* unlikely that both sticks are crap.

I've also removed all the other expansion cards in there.

I guess this leaves either motherboard or CPU and I'm leaning towards the motherboard.

Am I missing anything obvious?

I'm anxious to see what sort of clock I can get out of it having been watching this thread but being able to turn it on would be an excellent start...

Thanks for the help.


----------



## nik6600

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
If you plan on overclocking your cpu, then you will definitely need better cooling on the nb, sb and vrms.


what is "vrms"???


----------



## draxlondon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nik6600* 
what is "vrms"???









They're the Voltage Regulators next to the CPU. They look like 8 little black things towards the rear and above the CPU. Normally they sit under the copper fins at the other end of the heatpipes from the NB and SB.


----------



## nik6600

okok thanks...
I cant upadate my &%[email protected]#)+ bios
I have tried it with CD and flash and this is what comes up when i go into EZ Flash 2 with the flash pluged into the usb port:


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brb....Godot*


I'm going with the Thermatake Extreme Spirit II's as you recommend, I was wondering if they were enough.


Yes, they will be sufficient. Make certain your case has decent airflow as well.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *draxlondon*


Hey guys. I need a little help fault finding.

I assembled all my parts and turned on (no overclocking). Here's the list:
Intel C2D 6600
Zalman 9700
P5N32-E SLI
2GB OCZ PC2 8500 (2 x 1GB)
BFG 8800 GTX OC

Works as expected for the couple of minutes I've got it turned on on the bench. I turn it off. I hear a small beep as it turns off that fades to nothing within half a second as the power drops off.

Next time I turn it on, the beep is solid and really loud. It's the graphics card speaker and I'm pretty sure they do that if you forget to plug in the PEG connectors. Both are obviously in.

If I pull the power cord and reattach then it works okay, but always only for the first boot. When it's turned off there's the small beep then the continuous one the next time I turn it on.

First I thought I was just underpowering it (480w PSU) so I upgraded to a Coolermaster 850w - same problem.
Tried swapping out the graphics card for a low powered Quadro from my work PC. No more beeping but if I go into the BIOS and just watch temperatures (or whatever) for a couple of minutes the machine will hang, sometimes with graphical corruption. (Temps are fine BTW).

I don't have any other RAM to swap in but I've tried the two sticks individually and the results are the same. It's NVIDIA SLI approved RAM so I don't think it's incompatible and it's *really* unlikely that both sticks are crap.

I've also removed all the other expansion cards in there.

I guess this leaves either motherboard or CPU and I'm leaning towards the motherboard.

Am I missing anything obvious?

I'm anxious to see what sort of clock I can get out of it having been watching this thread but being able to turn it on would be an excellent start...

Thanks for the help.



You need to disable linkboost and Nvidia GPU Ex in the bios. They overvolt (sort of a bios level overclocking) video cards and cause similar issues. This feature was removed on later bios revisions but is still present in the 0602 you are running. The best way to flash the bios is to put the bin file on a flash memory stick and go from there in the ez flash program in the bios itself.


----------



## HoT

HI ppl!
anyone make this motherboard run at 500mhz or more ? and how much volts on the NB and SB ?

I just can do 480mhz +/-....


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HoT*


HI ppl!
anyone make this motherboard run at 500mhz or more ? and how much volts on the NB and SB ?

I just can do 480mhz +/-....











Fill out your specs please!

I've been able to run stable on air at 526 FSB (7xmulti) without issues with an E6700 and an X6800. Most of the members here can probably get 500+ depending on many factors (including active cooling on the northbridge and southbridge)

I run the nb/sb both at 1.5 in the bios.


----------



## HoT

p5n32-e sli (1102)
e6400 @ 3.2Ghz . waiting for q6600
tuniq 120 (waiting for wc swiftech)
bfg 8800 gts oc2
2gb corsair @ 4-4-4-12 2.150v
aerocool t-40 case (waiting for SilverS. TJ07)

1.43vcore
1.45 nb
1.50sb
1.30 ht
1.55 vtt


----------



## Robilar

Well you certainly will not hit over 500 fsb with a quad when you get it.


----------



## joematrix

Now that I have a good case with nice airflow, do you recommend I raise the NB to 1.4v+ in order to get a better overclock than 3.2GHz? Right now my vcore is at 1.48125v for the 3.2GHz.


----------



## HoT

and the ht stay on 1.30v to 500fsb ?


----------



## PapiChulo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Fill out your specs please!

I've been able to run stable on air at 526 FSB (7xmulti) without issues with an E6700 and an X6800. Most of the members here can probably get 500+ depending on many factors (including active cooling on the northbridge and southbridge)

I run the nb/sb both at 1.5 in the bios.


Robilar

Have you ever tested Xeons on your setup? I've seen a few other posts were peeps are using the 3070 and finding it is runs better than the E6700.


----------



## joematrix

Alright guys, I finally got some pictures of my new ThermalTake Armor case with 250mm fan in the side panel. You can see the pictures in my gallery. I would post them here, but the attachment button isn't letting me upload them right now. So, check out my pics and tell me what you think.


----------



## Robilar

I had a black armor with the 25cm side fan for about a year. Its a great case. Mind you I also had 3 icages in the front and painted the interior black so it liked pretty decent. You can't go wrong with the armor.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapiChulo* 
Robilar

Have you ever tested Xeons on your setup? I've seen a few other posts were peeps are using the 3070 and finding it is runs better than the E6700.


No although, I have seen a couple of similar posts. The problem is that the guys using the Xeons don't usually have an equally clocked C2D to match closely.


----------



## mba2dna

I may figure out why there were so many unlucky events to me. Yesterday, when I was going to install the Corsair ram cooler. Since it is just a fan and I have not unplugged everything out or pull the mobo out, I felt a bit shock (electrical) when I touch the case (those area without paint). I checked with other rigs and the LCD, all have the same shock problem. Then I unplug the AC of different components one by one and see who is the killer. At last, it is the amp of 5.1 speakers. After I discount the earth from the amp, the feel of shock is reduced a lot (but still has). There is earthing issue in my home network and it interfere the rigs stability.

I retest the OC again in 2 pc, both could oc 200Mhz more stably. As I am going to move out in a week or 2, I don't want to have a big operation. May be just use few cables to short all the cases to the earth in this weekend.


----------



## draxlondon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


You need to disable linkboost and Nvidia GPU Ex in the bios. They overvolt (sort of a bios level overclocking) video cards and cause similar issues. This feature was removed on later bios revisions but is still present in the 0602 you are running. The best way to flash the bios is to put the bin file on a flash memory stick and go from there in the ez flash program in the bios itself.


Funnily enough I managed to upgrade the BIOS to 1103 on the first boot.
I noticed that Linkboost is gone but I didn't look for the GPU Ex thingy.

I'll check it out but you'd figure without *any* overclocking stuff would run with BIOS defaults...

Thanks again for the help.


----------



## mba2dna

Some reference for my problem:

http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/F...3TLT_R1_EN.pdf


----------



## nik6600

I finally updated my bios using Asus Update








I o.c my cpu to 3,2ghz:










Is all ok ?? 
The temperatures would sometimes hit 65C!!









Will i be able to make my ram 4-4-4-8 1T @ 667Mhz??


----------



## charger265

Hey nik6600

Not a bad OC

What is your Vcore?

Your temps seem just a little high.
You may want to remount your heat sink again.
try not to go over 60C for 24/7 use. To see what your real temps are play some games and use them as a benchmark for 24/7 use. Because orthos takes it to the max.

Also try running your ram @ 1:1 you may have to loosen your timings a bit.
Maybe 4/4/4/12 @ 356MHz and if that doesn't work loosen them a little more 4/5/4/12 and work you way back till it runs stable. But check which setting will give you better results with sandra mem test 
& yes you can run 4/4/4/8 @ 667 but I don't know if it will be 100% stable

Here is a screen of my OC to give you a good benchmark


----------



## Litlratt

I found a couple of inexpensive probes here
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91778
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93984
Wonder if either of these would be good enough for measuring the NB and SB. Any ideas? If not, any recommendations?


----------



## nik6600

Quote:



Originally Posted by *charger265*


Hey nik6600

Not a bad OC

What is your Vcore?

Your temps seem just a little high.
You may want to remount your heat sink again.
try not to go over 60C for 24/7 use. To see what your real temps are play some games and use them as a benchmark for 24/7 use. Because orthos takes it to the max.

Also try running your ram @ 1:1 you may have to loosen your timings a bit.
Maybe 4/4/4/12 @ 356MHz and if that doesn't work loosen them a little more 4/5/4/12 and work you way back till it runs stable. But check which setting will give you better results with sandra mem test 
& yes you can run 4/4/4/8 @ 667 but I don't know if it will be 100% stable

Here is a screen of my OC to give you a good benchmark



ok thanks.










I changed the ram to 356Mhz with the same timings but i cant find the "sandra mem test" any ideas where to get it???

What is Bank Cycle Time? and why is it 22 clocks?


----------



## nuclearjock

SiSoft Sandra Lite (free version):Link


----------



## HoT

60º of temperature is not a problem . more tan 70º its one problem

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=206983

i reach 3500 mhz but i use only 3200 for 24/7


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HoT* 
60Âº of temperature is not a problem . more tan 70Âº its one problem

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=206983

i reach 3500 mhz but i use only 3200 for 24/7










What vcore and NB volts do you use to get 3500MHz? I run my e6400 at 3.2GHz but it will not boot any higher, even when i put vcore at 1.49v and NB at 1.45.


----------



## HoT

i not sure but i think i put 1.49vcore and 1.50NB


----------



## joematrix

Well, I got my system to boot at 3.4Ghz with a vcore of 1.53 I think and a NB of 1.55v, but it crashed after running orthos for about a minute. I don't want to go up any higher than that, so I guess I'll just stick to my rock stable overclock of 3.2GHz with a 1:1 ratio with my RAM.


----------



## mba2dna

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nik6600*


ok thanks.










I changed the ram to 356Mhz with the same timings but i cant find the "sandra mem test" any ideas where to get it???

What is Bank Cycle Time? and why is it 22 clocks?


Any chance to get it 1T stable?


----------



## H3||scr3am

1t shud be easy @ those speeds, throw it some more voltages... +.2v from max stock per say, she'll do it fine...


----------



## mba2dna

I think so, next can try 4-4-4-4. lol.


----------



## mba2dna

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mba2dna* 
Some reference for my problem:

http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/F...3TLT_R1_EN.pdf

Got a multimeter back home yesterday and took some measurements at the power bar. Here uses 220V AC. Potential between live and neutral is 220V, it is fine but potential between live and earth is 180V where as potential between neutral and earth is 48V!!!







Something must be wrong. Will investigate what happen tonight, I think short the cases to earth does not help for such situation.


----------



## Robilar

You can always try a voltage regulating ups for the system. They will clean the power and stabilize the ripple before it hits your power supply.


----------



## nik6600

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mba2dna*


Any chance to get it 1T stable?


Yes, and stable indeed!! lol


----------



## Imsoaks2

HI Guys,

Well I got my quad to 3 ghz last night. I ran Orthos all night and was awakened by a beeping sound at 6:30am! Went downstairs to check it out and this is what Orthos said:

Test 1, 5300 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M14942209 using 768K FFT length.
FATAL ERROR: Final result was E6364164, expected: EA5DB53B.
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Torture Test ran 9 hours, 56 minutes 30 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.

I searched for the stress.txt file and couldnt find it. I looked in the eventvwr for any clues and nothing.

There was another instance of Orthos running, but there were no problems reported.

My VCore is set at 1.26250 and NB set at 1.4. All the rest are set from the OC guide.

Should I up the VCore to say 1.26875 or 1.27500? Or make any other changes?

From what I read here, the Quads dont OC as good at the C2D's so what should I do???


----------



## Robilar

9 hours of orthos stable is more than any other app you will run in terms of load so thats pretty good. Of course upping your vcore will also improve stability. Try vcore of about 1.31 or so. It should stabilize it further.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


9 hours of orthos stable is more than any other app you will run in terms of load so thats pretty good. Of course upping your vcore will also improve stability. Try vcore of about 1.31 or so. It should stabilize it further.


1.3125 it is. Thanks! Will you let you all know how it works out.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2* 
1.3125 it is. Thanks! Will you let you all know how it works out.

FYI, At 1.3125 now the everest test is failing. I dropped it down to 1.28125 and both tests are working fine now......


----------



## USlatin

OMGoodness!!!








I just sat down to try to figure out why my computer has been freezing up on me and Orthos stopped at 2min 52sec !?!?!?!?!?!? :swearing:

_I was running a CPU and RAM blend

_On Everest I have the following voltages:
Core 1.25V
FSB VTT 1.65V (what is this one?)
NB 1.62V (too high?)
SB 1.6V (too high?)
DIMM 2.29V

_Below you'll see the important screens in the BIOS

_My signature is very thorough, but if you want to know anything else please let me know. (Vdr = After Vdroop)

TESTING BEGINS:
Please guide me as I don't know what gives yet... since it was a CPU & RAM blend on Orthos it could be anything... I am running MemTest right now... but I am only up to 9% after 10min? Is this normal, I could swear it ran faster... is it because of the 4GB?
I ran MemTest when I added the 3rd and 4th GB sticks and I was stable for several hours. I am wondering if I should run something else, but MemTest was the only thing I could think of to try to isolate the problem... How long should I run it to rule out RAM? 8hs?
Shoud I run a CPU test instead? Orthos or OTTC?
Maybe I should let Memtest get one full pass and then run a CPU test?

PLEASE HELP!!!


----------



## USlatin

I ran a full pass on Memtest and then I tried a CPU test on Orthos and no problems for 12 minutes... I have to do work while I test so I had to stop it but I guess I should run the CPU test for a while to see what happens...

EDIT: I ran CPU Orthos and it was fine for 35min... gonna run combo test now...


----------



## charger265

_I was running a CPU and RAM blend

_On Orthos I have the following voltages:
Core 1.25V
FSB VTT 1.65V (what is this one?)
NB 1.62V (too high?)
SB 1.6V (too high?)
DIMM 2.29V

_Below you'll see the important screens in the BIOS

_My signature is very thorough, but if you want to know anything else please let me know. (Vdr = After Vdroop)

PLEASE HELP!!![/QUOTE]

From what I can see your NB & SB are too high.
@ 515 FSB I had the NB 1.45V & SB 1.5V
If you have no active cooling on both then that is your problem
I was having trouble with the NB (heat) with only a 40x40x20mm 10cfm fan on it @ 400FSB 1.4VNB. It would freeze or just restart.
At the very least you should get a better NB cooler.
From memory you used a fan on the NB but just stuck it there with Double sided tap (correct me if I am wrong)
If you run orthos with the cpu test the problem should show its ugly head again anywhere from 9-30 min into the test
Well it did for me.
Also what is the ambient temp is it constant or is that another variable adding to your troubles
Hope this helps


----------



## USlatin

I am at the 1/2 hs mark on the combo and no problems so far...

You do remember correctly... I have a small 40mm fan stuck on it and dded a few copper heatsinks to the NB... I just hit 50C on the NB with the combo test and I am at a cool 72F ambient...

I lowered the NB voltage to 1.5V which gives me a 1.55V on Everest, so I'll see what happens to temps while I run an Orthos combo

BTW on the first post I meant to say "on EVEREST I have the following voltages:" not Orthos... i edited it

I was hoping to get away with the cooling I have now till I got a Quad when prices drop so I didn't have to open up the computer again but it seems I might not make it through the beginning of the summer like this... I mean... 50C on the NB is basically the problem for sure right?


----------



## USlatin

I crashed at 3min again... I guess it needs the voltage for the added ram? (4GB)?

And it seems it might be the temperature of the NB that is freezing my rig then... right?
Could I damage the board running it like this?


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I crashed at 3min again... I guess it needs the voltage for the added ram? (4GB)?

And it seems it might be the temperature of the NB that is freezing my rig then... right?
Could I damage the board running it like this?



I have not used 4gb ram on this board so you could be right on that one.
You may want to ask some one on this thread who is running 4GB ram what there settings are.

I can not be 100% correct with it being the NB but that is where I had a lot of problems till I put it on water then I could go all the way to 536FSB with full stability
And yes chances are that you will damage the board if you continue to push it with out a better cooling system.
With that voltage & FSB running through the NB you "will" need better cooling to get long term stability and a long life out of the board

Do you find when the ambient temps rise you have more problems?
An easy way to check this is to run a test for 30 min then turn the heating on, up you room temp by about 5-10c then run the test again.
If the first one passes and the second one fails then you will know that heat is the problem.
My NB would run great (with 40mm fan) till the room temp got above 19-20c then it would fail.
This sort of test will also give you a good idea of how much head room you have in your cooling system for all of your components.


----------



## USlatin

Yea, I think you are right on it... I can't say for sure but I did notice that my coputer was having a lot more problems when left on over night... then I turnedit off for a few hours and it worked much better...

I was thinking about getting the NB cooling solution Robilat and Cogno and Alex have... the little copper guy with a fan... that might also be the problem I experienced with trying to break 3.15GHz... (?)

what sucks is that I do not want to redo the case... taking out the MoBo is such a hassle... and I am hoping to get a Quad so I'll have to do it all over again then...

I just opened it up and took two cans of air to it... OMGoodnes!!! the ammount of dust on this thing! I noticed a significant ammount of build-up on the NB andother places including the Tuniq... I noticed a small drop on core idle...

I just crashed after 15min Orthos combo... I lowered the clock to 2.975GHz and it froze right when I hit Start on Orthos... I went back up to 3.15GHz...

What should I do? Is this the signs of a MoBo on it's way out? Should I get cooling ASAP? Is there something more effective than the ones Robilar is using? Will those do or should I go for something a bit stronger in hopes to keep my NB safe?

In essence: Does something like the NB get "weaker" and it should then be handled with care? Or do they just go in a flash all of a sudden?


----------



## charger265

The sprint II is a good choice. It will do the job.
I haven't used them myself but you can rely Robilar, Cogno and Alex they know what they are talking about.

I know how hard it is to get in to that case its just a little small but has got great air flow, another down side no dust collector. I modded up some filters that sit on the front of the case on the intakes and the one on the side to catch most of the dust and I find after a week there is a fair bit of a build up of dust on them. so a good clean out every few weeks is a good idea.

Try running @ stock speeds & volts and see if you have the same freezing problem. Have you OC your GPU because that can cause your system to freeze as well but it does sound more mobo related.

When my first board died it was very quick, but with congo's board she had trouble for a little bit before it died. But if I was you I would go back to stock till you get better cooling or at least 333FSB because the board has been made to take that FSB
You may have already done the damage!

You may need some more expert advice from robilar I cant really help you anymore than I have. I would just be guessing.


----------



## brb....Godot

I'm right in the middle of ordering parts for this rig and I keep looking at it and think it's just too over the top. Too much video for a 22" monitor for starters. I'm having serious doubts about this C2 extreme x6800 too.
http://www.yesplay.com/StoreProduct....re=OL&hcat=CPU
The price is awesome but I don't know why it's so awesome. I'm also afraid that Intel is going to release a series of killer chips this summer in an attempt to finish off AMD and that I'll be kicking myself for not waiting to see. So I'm thinking about ordering the E6600 instead. If Intel comes out with something amazing it won't be such a sting to upgrade.
As far as gpu's The reason I went with these ones is simply price.
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...nufacture=eVGA
From what I can see they're cheaper than what a lot of people recently paid for GTX's. But again, I read about pending price cuts and a potentially much better product coming out from nVidia so now I'm thinking about either one or a pair of these for now:
I'm interested in the BFG OC 8800 GTX's 2/3's down the page.
http://www.yesplay.com/StoreProduct....hcat=VideoCard
By doing this I now free up enough cash to drop my 22" Acer in favour of this one: a 26" Acer for $799
http://www.infonec.com/site/main.php...tail&id=251098
It's either that one or a similarly priced 24" Dell Ultra sharp like Cognoscenti just bought. Lovely monitor as well. It's a question of picture vs size I guess.
I'm also considering the Corsair Dominator or Geil Red Dragon ram, The Red Dragon is based on D9 gmh chips from what I read. If anybody has tested these I'd appreciate a heads up.
I've got some free time on my hands really need an upgrade and have a bit of cash to spend, I'd just like to spend it wisely is all. All comments,critiques are welcome.
Cheers


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Yea, I think you are right on it... I can't say for sure but I did notice that my coputer was having a lot more problems when left on over night... then I turnedit off for a few hours and it worked much better...

I was thinking about getting the NB cooling solution Robilat and Cogno and Alex have... the little copper guy with a fan... that might also be the problem I experienced with trying to break 3.15GHz... (?)

what sucks is that I do not want to redo the case... taking out the MoBo is such a hassle... and I am hoping to get a Quad so I'll have to do it all over again then...

I just opened it up and took two cans of air to it... OMGoodnes!!! the ammount of dust on this thing! I noticed a significant ammount of build-up on the NB andother places including the Tuniq... I noticed a small drop on core idle...

I just crashed after 15min Orthos combo... I lowered the clock to 2.975GHz and it froze right when I hit Start on Orthos... I went back up to 3.15GHz...

What should I do? Is this the signs of a MoBo on it's way out? Should I get cooling ASAP? Is there something more effective than the ones Robilar is using? Will those do or should I go for something a bit stronger in hopes to keep my NB safe?

In essence: Does something like the NB get "weaker" and it should then be handled with care? Or do they just go in a flash all of a sudden?

Welcome to the club US. I'm just now starting to experience some probs with what appears to be the board. If I have anything in the fourth memory slot, I fail Memtest, Orthos and have random BSOD. Any combination of the other 3 and no probs. I only run 1.45 on the NB with an ESII but I was still concerned with the temps a few pages ago. Never went over a 20 mhz clock on the memory as slower and tighter produced better than faster and looser.
It would seem that a prob with the NB in my case would result in any/all slots being faulty, not just an isolated one.
As someone mentioned, reduce your clocks, remove extra memory, etc. to troubleshoot. You might try strapping a 120mm fan at the rear of a hard drive cage or somewhere and point it in the direction of the NB.


----------



## stargate125645

So my sound card won't work in the middle PCI slot with this board? That is a really crappy design. Is this fixed with replacing the SB cooling setup?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stargate125645* 
So my sound card won't work in the middle PCI slot with this board? That is a really crappy design. Is this fixed with replacing the SB cooling setup?

I think that the problem occurs when you replace the SB heatsink to something that is taller than stock.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brb....Godot*


I'm right in the middle of ordering parts for this rig and I keep looking at it and think it's just too over the top. Too much video for a 22" monitor for starters. I'm having serious doubts about this C2 extreme x6800 too.
http://www.yesplay.com/StoreProduct....re=OL&hcat=CPU
The price is awesome but I don't know why it's so awesome. I'm also afraid that Intel is going to release a series of killer chips this summer in an attempt to finish off AMD and that I'll be kicking myself for not waiting to see. So I'm thinking about ordering the E6600 instead. If Intel comes out with something amazing it won't be such a sting to upgrade.
As far as gpu's The reason I went with these ones is simply price.
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...nufacture=eVGA
From what I can see they're cheaper than what a lot of people recently paid for GTX's. But again, I read about pending price cuts and a potentially much better product coming out from nVidia so now I'm thinking about either one or a pair of these for now:
I'm interested in the BFG OC 8800 GTX's 2/3's down the page.
http://www.yesplay.com/StoreProduct....hcat=VideoCard
By doing this I now free up enough cash to drop my 22" Acer in favour of this one: a 26" Acer for $799
http://www.infonec.com/site/main.php...tail&id=251098
It's either that one or a similarly priced 24" Dell Ultra sharp like Cognoscenti just bought. Lovely monitor as well. It's a question of picture vs size I guess.
I'm also considering the Corsair Dominator or Geil Red Dragon ram, The Red Dragon is based on D9 gmh chips from what I read. If anybody has tested these I'd appreciate a heads up.
I've got some free time on my hands really need an upgrade and have a bit of cash to spend, I'd just like to spend it wisely is all. All comments,critiques are welcome.
Cheers


You could save the money on the Ultras and the 6800 and upgrade to a 30" Dell. If you're building a gamer, there is nothing like playing on a 30 with enough power to run 25X16.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stargate125645*


So my sound card won't work in the middle PCI slot with this board? That is a really crappy design. Is this fixed with replacing the SB cooling setup?


Depends on the cooling solution you use and the length of your sound card. With the thermaltake spirit, I only have 150mm of length. the creative x-fi cards are 157mm long. Thats why I bought a bluegears b-enspirer (146mm long). If you use the thermalright hr-05 sli, then you can use a longer card.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Depends on the cooling solution you use and the length of your sound card. With the thermaltake spirit, I only have 150mm of length. the creative x-fi cards are 157mm long. Thats why I bought a bluegears b-enspirer (146mm long). If you use the thermalright hr-05 sli, then you can use a longer card.

What about with the stock cooling?

Getting a different sound card is out of the question.


----------



## MasterShake

hmm are there ocing guides for other boards? like mine


----------



## Tasteles

I thought that since I lapped my tuniq and my cpu that I would try to push my oc a bit more. I seem to be stable now at 390 x 9 FSB but at the cost of a vcore of 1.5625v. running temps of 59 C. I don't believe I can get any more out of this thing without going to water cooling. I'll be going back to my 24/7 OC of 380 x 9 after prooving stablity and running some benches. I don't like running vcore this high. And for the record, this is a week L645G chip, volt hungry :turd:.


----------



## Imsoaks2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Imsoaks2* 
FYI, At 1.3125 now the everest test is failing. I dropped it down to 1.28125 and both tests are working fine now......

It ran for over 10 hours with no problems at 3 ghz. Now I can re-install windows and get to gaming.

Thanks everyone for your help. I'll continue to watch this board and add any experience that I can.

Oh, and a very big Thanks to Robilar. Your guide and help is/was top notch.

Bruce


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brb....Godot* 
I'm right in the middle of ordering parts for this rig and I keep looking at it and think it's just too over the top. Too much video for a 22" monitor for starters. I'm having serious doubts about this C2 extreme x6800 too.
http://www.yesplay.com/StoreProduct....re=OL&hcat=CPU
The price is awesome but I don't know why it's so awesome. I'm also afraid that Intel is going to release a series of killer chips this summer in an attempt to finish off AMD and that I'll be kicking myself for not waiting to see. So I'm thinking about ordering the E6600 instead. If Intel comes out with something amazing it won't be such a sting to upgrade.
As far as gpu's The reason I went with these ones is simply price.
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...nufacture=eVGA
From what I can see they're cheaper than what a lot of people recently paid for GTX's. But again, I read about pending price cuts and a potentially much better product coming out from nVidia so now I'm thinking about either one or a pair of these for now:
I'm interested in the BFG OC 8800 GTX's 2/3's down the page.
http://www.yesplay.com/StoreProduct....hcat=VideoCard
By doing this I now free up enough cash to drop my 22" Acer in favour of this one: a 26" Acer for $799
http://www.infonec.com/site/main.php...tail&id=251098
It's either that one or a similarly priced 24" Dell Ultra sharp like Cognoscenti just bought. Lovely monitor as well. It's a question of picture vs size I guess.
I'm also considering the Corsair Dominator or Geil Red Dragon ram, The Red Dragon is based on D9 gmh chips from what I read. If anybody has tested these I'd appreciate a heads up.
I've got some free time on my hands really need an upgrade and have a bit of cash to spend, I'd just like to spend it wisely is all. All comments,critiques are welcome.
Cheers

That Ultra is dirt cheap get it!!!
739.99 CAD = 350.507 GBP

Here theyre £485 or $1,023.93 CAD
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Produ...oductID=587940


----------



## M3DS

Hi all, i have just bought this board myself and have been looking around for advice to O'Clock it and i would like to thank Robilar for his guide. I have been reading stuff on this thread and it is a great help. But trying to read through all 166 pages is a bit hard








any chance of a new post, perhaps an update guide maybe? with all the great stuff.

I myself have tried just uping the FSB i got it to 1400 then pc started to reboot so having to go back a bit and see how it goes. I am at 1350 at the moment, is this too high as i only have case and cpu fans?

oh and Robilar keep up the good work, for O'Clocking noobs like me, peeps like you make O'Clocking alot easier to understand. Nice one!!!


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *M3DS* 
I myself have tried just uping the FSB i got it to 1400 then pc started to reboot so having to go back a bit and see how it goes. I am at 1350 at the moment, is this too high as i only have case and cpu fans?

I've found that anything over about 1350ish FSB requires more CPU vCore, and in turn, more NorthBridge vCore. Though with higher vCore your temperatures will soar if you don't have sufficient cooling. If you're making use of the stock cooling on the motherboard chipsets and the standard Intel HSF, I don't see you manageing any higher unless you invest in better cooling.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
I've found that anything over about 1350ish FSB requires more CPU vCore, and in turn, more NorthBridge vCore. Though with higher vCore your temperatures will soar if you don't have sufficient cooling. If you're making use of the stock cooling on the motherboard chipsets and the standard Intel HSF, I don't see you manageing any higher unless you invest in better cooling.

A 100cfm fan blowing onto the motherboard will do wonders for cooling the stock cooling setup.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stargate125645* 
A 100cfm fan blowing onto the motherboard will do wonders for cooling the stock cooling setup.

I agree, even simple ghetto mods will do the trick. I used to run my system at 3.75Ghz with an old tumble dryer pipe leading from just below my NorthBridge to an open window.


----------



## USlatin

Be careful when going ghetto though... I am a bit worried I might have damaged my NB...

Robilar do you thing I could get a bit of your get? I would love to hear your opinion about my situation with my instability (possibly related to my NB)

I posted all the info starting on page 164

BTW I looked at your gallery and I must say...NICE RIG!!! I want that case so bad now... and your PSU!!! or an other PSU that will help OC higher and had the modular design!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stargate125645* 
What about with the stock cooling?

Getting a different sound card is out of the question.

The sb cooling is low profile (stock) and any sound card will fine fine.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Be careful when going ghetto though... I am a bit worried I might have damaged my NB...

Robilar do you thing I could get a bit of your get? I would love to hear your opinion about my situation with my instability (possibly related to my NB)

I posted all the info starting on page 164

BTW I looked at your gallery and I must say...NICE RIG!!! I want that case so bad now... and your PSU!!! or an other PSU that will help OC higher and had the modular design!

I'll go back and review, perhaps I can shed some light.

The case is pretty nice. I had a thermaltake armor before (Which I modded a fair bit) but this thing blows it away.


----------



## canadazenmaster

EDIT:

I got my new rig, long story short everything works except dual channel. I am wondering if the P5N32-E Sli bios works for the P5N32-E Sli Plus.

Running memtest: single sticks no errors, dual sticks in channel A or channel B, no errors.

Trying to run dual channel: MAD errors. (Eg a stick in channel A and a stick in channel B).

I am using Crucial: http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&ct=res...Ai6wHcz6tD1FuA

I have them set to 2.2V and 4-4-4-18 1T. I can't seem to get anything to run without errors in dual channel. I can't even install XP in dual channel because it barfs a blue screen so often.

I am wondering how I should approach this issue to get the computer working in dual channel? Can I try the Sli bios 1103 for the Sli Plus version? I think the Sli plus only changed the capacitors and some inductors near the cpu. I am unsure if I attempt to flash it and it fails, will my mobo be unusable?

Thanks guys.

Edit: If I run at 667mhz in dual channel (thanks to google search) I can run dual channel with no errors. If I set it to 800mhz it barfs errors.

The chips are easily overclockable beyond 800... does this mean in order to use dual channel I have to nerf my ram forever? Is there anyway around this? Can I lower my timings on my ram significantly to make up for my loss in overclockability?

I've lowered the timings to 3-3-3-12 1T and 700mhz memory unlinked. It passes memtest and is installing windows fine. I guess seeing as I can't overclock my memory now, I have to squeeze the smallest timings out of it...what do you guys suggest for timings?


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *canadazenmaster*


EDIT:

I got my new rig, long story short everything works except dual channel. I am wondering if the P5N32-E Sli bios works for the P5N32-E Sli Plus.

I have them set to 2.2V and 4-4-4-18 1T. I can't seem to get anything to run without errors in dual channel. I can't even install XP in dual channel because it barfs a blue screen so often.

Thanks guys.


Pretty sure that you cannot use the Sli bios on the SLI plus, as the plus uses the 650i chipset, and not the 680i chipet if i remember correctly.

Also, for your BSOD problem, try putting the memory back to 2T timings, something like 4-4-4-12 2T. I have issues with my Corsair ram not liking 1T timings. You can always try getting 1T again after you can get the computer to boot into an OS.


----------



## Robilar

Definitely not on the bios issue. Different architecture.

P5N32-E SLI Plus
Northbridge: C55
Southbridge: MCP55

P5N32-E SLI
Northbridge: C55XE
Southbridge: MCP55PXE


----------



## M3DS

Have attached screenshot of my settings, could someone have a look and let me know if i done ok?.

Also should i leave the memory timing setting all to auto, as at the moment i have had them at 4-4-4-8 while upping my fsb, memory config & GPU settings.
i also see that it shows my memory at 6400, i have 8500 is this a problem somewhere?

thanks in advance









ps, im luving this O'clocking lark even if i am a noob


----------



## Robilar

6400 is the rated speed of the ram. Its designed to run at 8500 speeds but defaults to 6400 so thats fine.

As long as you have the memory setting to unlinked you should be ok. I personally leave the memory to auto until I get the best cpu stable OC I can and then start playing with ram settings. The problem with doing both at once is that is something goes wrong you wont be sure which it is.

What version of ntune are you running and what is your vcore set at (two different numbers on cpu=z and ntune. ntune 5.05.18 shows vcore properly, the other versions dont and cpu-z is a crapshoot)


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *canadazenmaster*


EDIT:

I got my new rig, long story short everything works except dual channel. I am wondering if the P5N32-E Sli bios works for the P5N32-E Sli Plus.

Running memtest: single sticks no errors, dual sticks in channel A or channel B, no errors.

Trying to run dual channel: MAD errors. (Eg a stick in channel A and a stick in channel B).

I am using Crucial: http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&ct=res...Ai6wHcz6tD1FuA

I have them set to 2.2V and 4-4-4-18 1T. I can't seem to get anything to run without errors in dual channel. I can't even install XP in dual channel because it barfs a blue screen so often.

I am wondering how I should approach this issue to get the computer working in dual channel? Can I try the Sli bios 1103 for the Sli Plus version? I think the Sli plus only changed the capacitors and some inductors near the cpu. I am unsure if I attempt to flash it and it fails, will my mobo be unusable?

Thanks guys.

Edit: If I run at 667mhz in dual channel (thanks to google search) I can run dual channel with no errors. If I set it to 800mhz it barfs errors.

The chips are easily overclockable beyond 800... does this mean in order to use dual channel I have to nerf my ram forever? Is there anyway around this? Can I lower my timings on my ram significantly to make up for my loss in overclockability?

I've lowered the timings to 3-3-3-12 1T and 700mhz memory unlinked. It passes memtest and is installing windows fine. I guess seeing as I can't overclock my memory now, I have to squeeze the smallest timings out of it...what do you guys suggest for timings?



Those ram timings are good. tighter timings run faster than looser with higher speed regardless. I run 4-4-4-8 @1T.

As I mentioned above the bios between the two boards is completely incompatible.


----------



## canadazenmaster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Those ram timings are good. tighter timings run faster than looser with higher speed regardless. I run 4-4-4-8 @1T.

As I mentioned above the bios between the two boards is completely incompatible.


Thanks, the computer is now stable at 667 with 3-3-3-12 1T, in windows and writing this reply from this computer. Tomorrow will be burn in and tweaking I guess.

I am tired now! Fighting so long with bios and blue screen and ahhh...
Thanks again.


----------



## M3DS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
What version of ntune are you running and what is your vcore set at (two different numbers on cpu=z and ntune. ntune 5.05.18 shows vcore properly, the other versions dont and cpu-z is a crapshoot)


*Vcore was 3425*

*version of ntune is 5.05.38*

i have now gone back to default settings as i feel temp. was getting bit high. Also orthos stopped after 3 hours. i going to have a look about adding some coolers to the north/south bridges and also something for the CPU as i dont think the fan is good enough. I am going to have to be careful with the cpu as i have the antec p190 case which has a big boy fan in the side panel and this does come quite close to the power connectors on the Grapahics card, so some of those artic coolers may not fit. any ideas what would be good? im going to go back to your 1st post and look at the coolers there for a start









I am also hoping to add 2 more memory modules later on and a 2nd Graphics card.


----------



## dizzy4

Wow!!! i have been gone a while and thought that this board had no hope of breaking the 1340 FSB limit im reaching!!!

THANKS! ill try it out!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dizzy4*


Wow!!! i have been gone a while and thought that this board had no hope of breaking the 1340 FSB limit im reaching!!!

THANKS! ill try it out!


Dude sorry to dissapoint you but the board you have is not the one this thread is based on









The P5N32 SLI Deluxe you have is based on the older NF4 chipset. The thread based board is the P5N32-*E* SLI and is the newer 680i chipset.

The highest I've seen your board hit is 350 FSB


----------



## dizzy4

boo. oh well. thanks


----------



## Skywayman

Hey guys, great guide, I'm very happy with this mobo, got me a 3.0ghz stable OC on 1.35vcore not bad. 3.2 is stable at 1.44 i havent tried much higher, do i just need to adjust the vcore when clocking higher, or are there other voltages as well that will help with stability?
Thanks


----------



## USlatin

Hey Robi, sorry if I bug, just wanted to see if you could look at my situation... you are the P5N32-E SLI guru and I have an iffy situation here so I don't want to proceed until I get your green light on the plan of action...

so when you get a chance please let me know if you think any of these are the right way to go for now... I am super strapped for cash so please keep that in mind...

a. get the proper cooling... I am looking at the setup Cogno had with one of yours and the passive cooler for the SB since I got an X-Fi

b. only get the NB cooling for now if it is 99% likely to be a NB issue

c. also get a new board


----------



## spinoza

Has anyone else been having difficulty with the built in network controllers on this thing? I'm about to lose it with this build.

I can't even begin to start to overclock until I can fix these driver issues. I've been through many different driver revisions (uninstalling/reinstalling drivers) I've even gone to the point of buying a separate network card to see if I can isolate the problem. And I don't know if it's just my bad luck but even that gave me trouble and I had to uninstall it.

I remember back in the day it used to be an issue what pci slot you had your sound card in as it would cause IRQ conflicts. I've tried putting the soundcard in the top and bottom pci slots but I still get random lock ups and BSOD's. I've re-installed the 
OS several times with several different hardware configurations and it seems I'm still running into the same issues.

Things will run great for a a while and then boom it all goes to hell. I've been at this for two weeks now and 'im at my wits end. This is the second board that I'm on as I had to RMA the first because it blew up on me.

And another thing about this board. I spent $400.00 on this RAM and I can't reset the defaults in bios and get back in to increase the voltage to 2.3? After spending that much on the RAM I had to go out and spend more for the cheapest module I could find in order to get back into the bios to set it to boot from the good stuff. I feel violated.









If anyone has any suggestions here I would really like to here them.


----------



## spinoza

I've eliminated the CPU and RAM as potential problems. Orthos runs great and memtest runs with no errors.


----------



## Agnostik888

Just wondering if anyone has a stable overclock of this board with a E6600 stable overclocked to 3.0GHz on stock cooling on the NB/SB but a reasonable cpu fan (Zalman 9500 series)? Want to get your settings to try them out myself. Been debating doing a bit of an overclock on mine but don't wanna max out. I have been thinking of boosting the FSB to a reasonable amount and being reasonable on the cpu, why I chose 3ghz.

Just curious what settings I would have to do to get i running at that value without kicking the heat up to o much more than it is at now

Thanks!


----------



## USlatin

Hey Alex, are you still using the Jing Ting cooler for your SB right?

Have you checked your NB & SB temps with a probe?

I am getting it too... just put in an order for the Spirit II for the NB, and I have an X-Fi too so I will use your SB solution... anyone got a good deal link? I can only find it for $33 at Jab-Tech

I gotta order the mosfet coolers too, any idea about better ones or nothing fancy came up? Should I just get the good 'ol swiftechs and call it a day.. I am asking only cause I have a TT120 so there isn't a whole lot of airflow round there, but you have the same CPU cooler...

how come you never have pics in ur gallery?


----------



## M3DS

spinoza:

you say you could not set BIOS to default? Also you have BSOD & random restarts?
If this is the case why do you suspect the network cards?
My advice would be to make sure that BIOS settings are all set to default, no O'Clocking options set. This way you can make sure Mobo works ok as normal. If it does not then try things like changing the sata cable for the harddrive, if you have sata setup. Also check you have uptodate BIOS. Try a different PSU if you have one, as these can cause random restarts. Try running orthos on pc for a good few hours see if it stops at all. Do a chkdsk on harddrive to make sure it not got any problems. I have also found that sometimes unseating all parts and re adding them can help, cards, power connectors etc etc. Check as well your memory as ASUS mobo dont like some memory, there is an uptodate list on asus site under drivers.
Hope this post helps you.


----------



## USlatin

I took out two of the RAM sticks ad still crashed Orthos at 2min 50sec...

so I will throw those back in and wait for the cooler while I wait for ideas and suggestions...

an other idea: can I get an other set of copper swiftech ramsinks and use one on each mosfet instead? I allready have three on the NB so I'd have 11 of them... is that enough? I know it will be enough for the NB mosfets but what about when I replace the SB cooling too? Also... would those fit?

These are the best pics we have here that show the space available but I still can't tell if they would fit between those R27 thingies... I guess they wouldn't caus ethe Aluminum black ones are 6mm wide and the copper ones are 14mm... it doesn't even look like there is double the with there...

http://www.overclock.net/attachments...g?d=1180883638

http://www.overclock.net/attachments...g?d=1181071424

http://www.overclock.net/attachments...g?d=1181072688

http://www.overclock.net/attachments...g?d=1181172301

http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MC1...s-pr-3163.html


----------



## USlatin

nevermind me... I just placed an order for the black ones... answered my own question...







(still need help troubleshooting my instability issues though)

so it looks like I will be getting the Spirit and these some time next week... till then my room is going to be FREEZING hahah... I am shaking now heheheh...


----------



## isprog

Hi Guys.
Have tried to go through all the posts here but cannot seem to find if anyone has successfully managed to install DUAL 8800GTS (or GTX) with after market coolers AND with a Creative X-Fi Gamer Xtreme or equivalent.

I know the Bluegears B-Enspirer will fit when used with the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II.

Just wondering if anyone had any success with a Creative card in an SLI set up ?

Thanks


----------



## USlatin

I was just looking into that though I am not SLI'ing... it seems you either should get a different card or you might have to bend the pipe for the Jing cooler (if that sort of thing is possible without breaking it in half)... you might be ok with stock cooling in you re-set it with artic and attach some copper Ram sinks onto it like I did... but I am also in the midst of trying to figure out why I am not Orthos stable!!! so while I am guessing it is the NB cooling and not the SB you still might want to look further...I thought Alex was using one of the Jing coolers and he has an X-Fi.. but I don't think he is SLI'ed... but he might be able to shed some light as to positioning regardless... perhaps an idea about modding that Jing it necessary...


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *isprog* 
Hi Guys.
Have tried to go through all the posts here but cannot seem to find if anyone has successfully managed to install DUAL 8800GTS (or GTX) with after market coolers AND with a Creative X-Fi Gamer Xtreme or equivalent.

I know the Bluegears B-Enspirer will fit when used with the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II.

Just wondering if anyone had any success with a Creative card in an SLI set up ?

Thanks

I used the stock SB heatsink by cutting off the pipe. I couldn't get a TR sli to fit even when bending it. The SB doesn't seem to get near as warm as the NB and I don't believe it should require active cooling.

For US: Our issues aren't the same, but I had to up the NB to 1.55 from 1.45 to get stable again at 3.6. All other settings the same.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *isprog* 
Hi Guys.
Have tried to go through all the posts here but cannot seem to find if anyone has successfully managed to install DUAL 8800GTS (or GTX) with after market coolers AND with a Creative X-Fi Gamer Xtreme or equivalent.

I know the Bluegears B-Enspirer will fit when used with the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II.

Just wondering if anyone had any success with a Creative card in an SLI set up ?

Thanks

I believe I answered this earlier. You will have you use the thermalright HR-05 SLI instead of the thermaltake on the southbridge to make a creative x-fi fit.


----------



## spinoza

M3DS said:


> spinoza:
> 
> you say you could not set BIOS to default? Also you have BSOD & random restarts?
> If this is the case why do you suspect the network cards?
> 
> Thanks for the reply M3DS. The event log has only one type of error that occurs just before I have to restart. For each type of ethernet controller (D-link and Nvidia) there is a corresponding error message. That's why I'm looking there.
> 
> I should also say that this happens sometime overnight after the machine has been powered up and used quite heavily in the hours before I go to sleep. Sometime around 4 aM or so those errors get logged and when I go to the machine at 6 am it's running and there is still activity on the hard drive.(I keep utorrent running at night). This means that everything is still running. The screen has turned itself off and as soon as I hit the keyboard or mouse the desktop shows and the it freezes.
> 
> I've been looking around at other forums and I've upgraded to the latest drivers for everything. I'm using the latest BIOS 1103.
> 
> I've gone through everything that you mentioned before. Only had the bare minimum running and it still happened. I've also had it happen at default settings in the bios (no OC'ing). I've run Orhtos stably for up to 4 hours straight and memtest for at least that time. I can't seem to isolate the issue. One thing I do know. It never happens with Ubuntu installed so I'm fairly confident it's a driver issue in Windows and not hardware related.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


I believe I answered this earlier. You will have you use the thermalright HR-05 SLI instead of the thermaltake on the southbridge to make a creative x-fi fit.


Robilar:
I couldn't get the TR HR-05 SLI to fit on mine with dual GTXs.
Maybe I wasn't holding my tongue right when bending the %$#@ out of it.


----------



## isprog

Hi.
I think Cognoscenti managed to use the TR HR-05 SLI in a SLI GTX set up, from when I went through all the posts, but it seems from her pic attached (All Credits to Cognoscenti's excellent work - they are of her old system I believe, all I have done is repost) that you could not fit a large card in the PCI slot. You can see that the default Asus sound daughter card is used rather than a PCI sound card.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
Robilar:
I couldn't get the TR HR-05 SLI to fit on mine with dual GTXs.
Maybe I wasn't holding my tongue right when bending the %$#@ out of it.


----------



## M3DS

spinoza said:


> Thanks for the reply M3DS. The event log has only one type of error that occurs just before I have to restart. For each type of ethernet controller (D-link and Nvidia) there is a corresponding error message. That's why I'm looking there. post a screenshot showing details of this
> 
> utorrent running at night Turn off
> 
> Also turn off all power saving options. check the BIOS power saving options as well, as sometimes these can conflict with windows ones . check that the Network cards do not have tick in the options to turn off this device to save power.
> 
> Thats a few more i can think of for the moment. The thing i think you need to test is to leave machine on and make sure utorrent is not running, as i have had problems myself with torrent programs causing crashes.
> 
> Also check you have all Windows updates for machine as sometimes this can help sort problems. Becareful installing any "hardware" updates tho as these can cause alot of problems. sound card ones dont work well from update site i have found.


----------



## alexisd

Im using the jing ting for the SB no sli.You can used in sli with shorther cards,like the 7000's series.Even you can off set the cooler but the 8800's series card's are to long.And you can use the x-fi sound card with this cooler no problems,is close to the cooler but you fine.


----------



## USlatin

So I will get one of those then Alex... I am not planning on SLI'ing but I do have an X-Fi... first I will see if the problem goes away by replacing the NB cooler alone... please check out my post about instability on page 163 (or was it 164?) I need help bad and I would really appreciate your input


----------



## charger265

This is a post I have found @ http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ng-term-3.html
Post #25 By FGW (Rep 4 you)

Just thought it might be of interest & will answer a lot of questions about OCing voltages

"Quote"

Intel Core 2 Duo Desktop Processor E6000 Sequence â€" Datasheet
http://developer.intel.com/design/pr...hts/313278.htm

2.6.1 Absolute Maximum and Minimum Ratings

Table 4 specifies absolute maximum and minimum ratings only and lie outside the functional limits of the processor. Within functional operation limits, functionality and long-term reliability can be expected.
At conditions outside functional operation condition limits, but within absolute maximum and minimum ratings, neither functionality nor long-term reliability can be expected. If a device is returned to conditions within functional operation limits after having been subjected to conditions outside these limits, but within the absolute maximum and minimum ratings, the device may be functional, but with its lifetime degraded depending on exposure to conditions exceeding the functional operation condition limits.
At conditions exceeding absolute maximum and minimum ratings, neither functionality nor long-term reliability can be expected. Moreover, if a device is subjected to these conditions for any length of time then, when returned to conditions within the functional operating condition limits, it will either not function, or its reliability will be severely degraded.
Although the processor contains protective circuitry to resist damage from static electric discharge, precautions should always be taken to avoid high static voltages or electric fields.

Table 4. Absolute Maximum and Minimum Ratings
VCC (Core voltage with respect to VSS) â€"0.3V / 1.55V (Min/Max)
VTT (FSB termination voltage with respect to VSS) â€"0.3V / 1.55V (Min/Max)

Notes:
For functional operation, all processor electrical, signal quality, mechanical and thermal specifications must be satisfied.
Excessive overshoot or undershoot on any signal will likely result in permanent damage to the processor.

2.6.2 DC Voltage and Current Specification

Table 5. Voltage and Current Specifications
VID (Range of VID) 0.8500V / - / 1.5V (Min/Typ/Max)
VCC (Supply Voltage) - / - / 1.5V (Min/Typ/Max)
VTT (FSB termination voltage) 1.14V / 1.20V / 1.26V (Min/Typ/Max)

Notes:
Adherence to the voltage specifications for the processor are required to ensure reliable processor operation.
Each processor is programmed with a maximum valid voltage identification value (VID), which is set at manufacturing and can not be altered. Individual maximum VID values are calibrated during manufacturing such that two processors at the same frequency may have different settings within the VID range.

Intel 975X Express Chipset MCH - Datasheet
http://developer.intel.com/design/ch...hts/310158.htm

10.1 Absolute Minimum and Maximum Ratings

Table 10-1. Absolute Minimum and Maximum Ratings
VCC (1.5 V Core voltage with respect to VSS) â€"0.3V / 1.65V (Min/Max)
VTT (System Bus Input Voltage with respect to VSS) â€"0.3V / 1.65V (Min/Max)

10.4 DC Characteristics

Table 10-5. DC Characteristics
VCC (MCH Core Supply Voltage) 1.425V / 1.50V / 1.575V (Min/Typ/Max)
VTT (System Bus Input Supply Voltage) 1.14V / 1.20V / 1.26V (Min/Typ/Max)

personal remarks:
all logic levels on FSB are derived relative to VTT. so i assume its wise to also increase VTT when increasing VCC for MCH. this seems also be confirmed by recent posts about increasing VGTL which is tight to VTT (in fact it's simply 2/3*VTT)!
although MCH datasheet specifies 1.65V max for VTT, i would keep VTT below 1.55V because C2D datasheet specifies VTTmax as 1.55V.
as a guideline, i would increase VTT by the same relative amount as i increase VCC for MCH. e.g. VCC goes from 1.5V to 1.65V, so VTT goes from 1.2V to 1.3V.
another important point is to have a look at real voltages on your board. i have found, that on my aw9d-max vmch is just at 1.65V when i select 1.70V in bios! this might differ from board to board but believe me, the voltage applied to the components is always lower than the voltage selected in bios. you simply can't rely on the voltages without checking them with a DMM!

this means in my environment Vcore=1,31 Vmch=1,65 Vvtt=1,30 and still needs to be verified.

from looking into intel datasheets, it's very obvious what happens when maximum ratings of supply voltage are exceeded. the question here is just: whats the time frame we are talking about. frankly, i don't care if the chips are dead after about two years because i have run them at a voltages outside their limits. in two years from now, i most likely upgraded to a newer technology anyway and don't care if my good old aw9d-max is refusing to work as expected...
the question remains, what are the voltages we can run our components in respect to lifetime degradation?

ps. all this holds true also for 965 chipsets. the only difference is, the 965 is rated rated slightly lower:
Absolute Maximum Ratings
VCC (Core voltage with respect to VSS) 1.375V
VTT (System Bus Input Voltage with respect to VSS) 1.32V

EDIT: updated processor VID and VCC to 1.5V (intel updated the document from .02 to .03 as of january 2007)


----------



## alexisd

USlatin.Sry din't help before but i was in vacations.Now back to your problem.
This is my settings.
V.core1.562
1.2ht volts 1.40
NB 1.45
SB 1.50
cpu vtt 1.55
your pciex 16 is @ 103 or some like that.Mine is.
pciex16=100
And another thing you have your memory @ 1T,no all the memory like or work with 1T.Mine is @ 4 4 4 4 2t,@910 mhz.
And you have x7 multy.Use the x9 multy and try those settings.And run orthos in large FFTs.Hope this help.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
I used the stock SB heatsink by cutting off the pipe. I couldn't get a TR sli to fit even when bending it. The SB doesn't seem to get near as warm as the NB and I don't believe it should require active cooling.

For US: Our issues aren't the same, but I had to up the NB to 1.55 from 1.45 to get stable again at 3.6. All other settings the same.

So when did you have to up the voltages?
I am hoping I need the higher volts cause of the crazy temps I must have the NB at... lower temps = stability at lower volts

I just got my MC21's (mosfet black aluminum sinks that everyone is using) they look awfully small... should I be concerned with airflow to them? I have a TT120 so I think they might be getting a bit of air... I was thinking about adding a fin on the bottom of the TT's silver fins so that the air from the portion of the fan that sticks out could be redirected to the mosfets (both of them)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
USlatin.Sry din't help before but i was in vacations.Now back to your problem.
This is my settings.
V.core1.562
1.2ht volts 1.40
NB 1.45
SB 1.50
cpu vtt 1.55
your pciex 16 is @ 103 or some like that.Mine is.
pciex16=100
And another thing you have your memory @ 1T,no all the memory like or work with 1T.Mine is @ 4 4 4 4 2t,@910 mhz.
And you have x7 multy.Use the x9 multy and try those settings.And run orthos in large FFTs.Hope this help.

I am MemTest stable with 1T... so it seems the RAM ain't it...
I will set the pciex's to 100 but I thought that 101 was supposed to help a bit for stability?
I thought E6300's didn't have the option to go x9, I think I tried setting it too...

let me check on that


----------



## alexisd

My bad,you have a 6300 no a 6600.But you can try the rest of the settings.


----------



## USlatin

yea... I got it a while back when the E6600 was still considerably more $$ and this was meant to be a Quad hold me over

I set:
1.2Ht to 1.4V up from stock (1.2V)
the PCIEX's to 101 (will try 100 if necessary)

I kept my NB and SB voltages to see what happened with the 1.2Ht being higher since I never knew to change that...

I am running a 30,000 FFT test right now... *40 min* *< EDITING*
What is the deal with large versus small FFTs? my core is running super cool at 45C with 24C ambient... are short FFTs tougher? why do you say to test with large?

thanks for helping me Alex.... hey maybe the 1.2Ht was something I needed to change to get past my 3.15GHz wall?!?!?









look at US... he hasn't prooved stable yet and he is allready thinking about OC'ing higher, rofl... ahahah


----------



## USlatin

Ok... so the 30,000 FFT test ran without a hitch for 40 min but when I stopped it my bomputer froze... hard...

I thought it might have been cause i was surfing while testing so I decided to try and boot with 1800 FSB which I had never been able to post with... ouch!!! my computer froze and BIOS got corrupted... so I re-flashed the 1103 into it and had to re-set the whole thing...

and now it won't post... trying 1500FSB... nope.. trying all kinds of things... man I am scared...
I was able to post at default settings.... do I need to creep up slowly all over again?


----------



## USlatin

please help me... I am in the middle of editing a movie with a deadline approaching fast

I loaded default, disabled all that's recommended and enabled my RAIDs and I can't boot up onto my RAID... only the single spare drive which is not the one I have been using... my stomach just dropped cause that boot (Media Center) doesn't see my RAIDs and that's where all my footage is!

what should I do to be able to boot into my XP-32 in one of my RAID0's?
I already Enabled the RAID feature and enabled RAID on the drives individually... I go to the RAID configurator (F10) and they are there... healthy... everything seems to be in order... but when I try to boo with it as the first HDD the computer shuts off and restarts

I unplugged the other RAID and the single drive and I am getting a Disk Boot Failure... but I might have unplugged the wrong one... yup that was the wrong one.. now I am getting the same problem... it shuts down and restarts

all of this and I wasn't able to OC... do I need to get a new MoBo?
Do I need to install a RAID driver of any sort because I flashed the BIOS? It just flashed up to 1103 ad I didn't have to do anything then...

OMFGoodness!!!!! I left the jumper in the clear CMOS position!!!
I switched it back but that's not helping...


----------



## charger265

USlatin

Have you installed a raid driver on the media center OS?
Have you tried to use a recovery CD? eg/ xp repair (Non boot issue on raid array)
Have you disabled auto restart after system failure? This will tell you what sort of problems you are having when it is forced to restart.
Have you checked windows event viewer for issues

The random freezes could be anything from hardware to software. So try to isolate every part of your system. Take out sound cards, use only 2gb of ram, install fresh OS with fresh drivers & try to do it all @ stock to start with.

First off try the windows CD to repair your OS, you may have to have your raid drivers handy (may not see OS due to raid array)

P.S. you may like to start a new thread to get more help.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *charger265* 
P.S. you may like to start a new thread to get more help.

yea, probably a good idea, I don't thing anyone appreciated my frantic posting on a sticky... go here to help me, plz


----------



## M3DS

I need some help finding a better CPU cooler for this board, atm i have the stock cpu fan. I need something that is 12cm max height as i have a big boy fan on side panel which takes away 4.5cm of room when panel on.

also i was looking at putting some chipset coolers on the nb/sb, but i notice all the ones you suggest mean you have to remove the pipes, which tbh i like.
is there anyway to cool these with pipes still attached. Also the coolers dont seem to allow room for the 3rd pci-e 8x slot.

thanks in advance


----------



## charger265

Quote:


Originally Posted by *M3DS* 
I need some help finding a better CPU cooler for this board, atm i have the stock cpu fan. I need something that is 12cm max height as i have a big boy fan on side panel which takes away 4.5cm of room when panel on.

also i was looking at putting some chipset coolers on the nb/sb, but i notice all the ones you suggest mean you have to remove the pipes, which tbh i like.
is there anyway to cool these with pipes still attached. Also the coolers dont seem to allow room for the 3rd pci-e 8x slot.

thanks in advance










From memory the Zolman 9500 might just fit 125mm high. I will do the job a lot better than stock but is not the best. you may want to have a look at the 8700 for low profile.
For chip set coolers you can just use a 40x40x20mm fan screwed onto the top of the NB which will give you a safe OC on the NB to about 350-380FSB
The SB does not need active cooling if you stay under the 380FSB


----------



## M3DS

"From memory the Zolman 9500 might just fit 125mm high."

too tight need 120mm as i stated 125mm would either go into fan or be right on it, cant take the chance tbh. Have found some that may work but still checking them out.
Zerotherm CF series CF800/CF900
Artic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Cooler
Coolermaster Gemini CPU+Board Cooler
Thermalright MST-9775

Yes i did think of just putting small fan on NB to help.
i have also found a fan from antec that you can just stick in mobo fixing and adjust to where you want.


----------



## Litlratt

USlatin said:


> So when did you have to up the voltages?
> 
> After running a bunch of benches one night without issue at 3.69 I went back to 3.6 and was experiencing random bsod, memtest and orthos failures.
> Prior to that those settings were rock solid 24/7.


----------



## mica3speedy

is there any modifications that need to be done to get the Thermalright Ultra 120 to fit?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
is there any modifications that need to be done to get the Thermalright Ultra 120 to fit?

If your mb mounts vertically and you have room from left to right you shouldn't experience any issues.


----------



## USlatin

so why does that happen? is it the elusive "Chip Creep" concept?

or fatigue?


----------



## drmartin48106

HELP:
Does anyone know where the raid drivers for xp pro can be found?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drmartin48106* 
HELP:
Does anyone know where the raid drivers for xp pro can be found?

32 or 64?


----------



## drmartin48106

32. Though if you know where I can get 64 as well I might try that running 64 as well (later). But for right now I'm looking for 32...

Just bought a new system and need the get an OS on it to verify all is working!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drmartin48106* 
32. Though if you know where I can get 64 as well I might try that running 64 as well (later). But for right now I'm looking for 32...

Just bought a new system and need the get an OS on it to verify all is working!

http://www.nvidia.com/content/drivers/drivers.asp


----------



## drmartin48106

Please not that the OS can not even install (can not find HD). Therefor I would need the .sys files


----------



## drmartin48106

you know it just hit me to go to nvida! I was down loading as you replyied. Thanks though,
D


----------



## USlatin

ok I guess my XP-32 installation on a RAID0 croaked... a bunch of guys including Alex Litlratt and Charger helped me out and I got my movie project back!

Sorry about the crazy posting...

Now I'll work on my OC.. BTW I passed 6hs of Orthos with RAM on auto and CPU at my highest ever achieved... it is definitely a NB or RAM issue...


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Now I'll work on my OC.. BTW I passed 6hs of Orthos with RAM on auto and CPU at my highest ever achieved... it is definitely a NB or RAM issue...

I've read through your original problem on Page 164 and I too think that its a simple NorthBridge cooling issue. At 1.6v my NorthBridge gets hot even with a Noctua NU-06 and 120mm fan blowing across it. There's not going to be anything you can do about it until your sort out an aftermarket cooler.


----------



## USlatin

yea, thanks for your input t4... I really need it









BTW, I have a Spirit in the mail already. I can't wait to get that sucker planted on but on the other hand I feel it is too bad that it can't wait, cause Q6600 time is approaching, and I can't stand breaking down and re-building in my A900 case with the SATA port positioning of our board. Maybe I'll just wait till Vegas 8.0 comes out, and only then upgrade CPU. Too bad there was such a $ difference between 63's and 66's when I got my chip.

Currently 1hs into Orthos CPU and RAM test with the 3.15GHz and 4-4-4-12-2T @ 900mhz... it should be stable and if it is I am planning on sticking to that till I get the cooler on...


----------



## alexisd

Nice heard you go it goin USlatin.Yup you really need that nb cooler.That was the first thing i change on mine.


----------



## USlatin

Hey Alexis how long did you run your system without it? and how high of volts?
I am trying to figure out if I damage my board at all...


----------



## alexisd

I installed the spirit II the first day when i recieve the mobo.And the volt's are 1.50.


----------



## USlatin

oh.. misread, sorry


----------



## alexisd

You raid is working now?


----------



## drmartin48106

I'm still having issues trying to install xp32 with raid. XP does not see the drives and I can not find the proper disk to use (you know F6). the version of xp I'm using is pro with SP2 baked in.


----------



## drmartin48106

Go it. The drivers were buried in the install.


----------



## USlatin

he he... I didn't have trouble getting my XP-32 SP2 to install onto a RAID... it only took me 4 times... hahahah... Now I have a fresh XP-32 SP2 running on a single drive but it sees both RAID0's and the other single drive just fine...

*BTW... *
Orthos for 8hs with 3.15GHz and 4-4-4-12-2T @ 950mHz with the following Vdrooped Volties:

Vcore 1.31V
NB 1.55V
SB 1.55V
RAM 2.3V

I never posted past this FSB, RAM is getting full voltage but has a minor OC, which is why I am stable with the slightly lower NB but 8hs. stable!
I will OC memory up once I get the Spirit...


----------



## drmartin48106

Well I'm up and using it! Uploaded a few pics... still have to add a few more lights but that can wait it only took egghead ~month for turn-a-round on a warped motherboard!

USlatin, how do you have your drives configured?


----------



## isprog

Hi t4ct1c47
*Noctua NC-U6 and CPU Cooler*

I noticed that you said you are using the Noctua NC-U6 Chipset Cooler with a 120mm Fan. I too have ordered this hoping I would be able to fit it. What CPU cooler are use using if I may ask ?

I intend to use the Noctua NH-U12 hoping they will both fit.

Thanks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


I've read through your original problem on Page 164 and I too think that its a simple NorthBridge cooling issue. At 1.6v my NorthBridge gets hot even with a Noctua NU-06 and 120mm fan blowing across it. There's not going to be anything you can do about it until your sort out an aftermarket cooler.


----------



## USlatin

Drmartin, what do you mean about driver config?
I made an XP-32 floppy rfor the Raid drivers with the ASUS CD... it has a tab that makes floppys for you... then I downloaded the latest 680i mobo chipset drivers from NVIDIA...

ISPROG, TACTICAL!!! please tell me more about the 120mm Noctua idea!!! wouldn't Robilar's CPU cooler work if it were mounted so it blows towards the top of your case (200mm fan of my A900) !!!!!!! then I could slap the Spirit on the SB and you'd get a super cold NB and CPU with amazing airflow configuration!!! think of the NB 120mm fan feeding the CPU's 110CMF 120mm fan!!! Then all of that getting released outwards through a blow-hole!!! That sounds like a promising air setup!!!


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *isprog*


I noticed that you said you are using the Noctua NC-U6 Chipset Cooler with a 120mm Fan. I too have ordered this hoping I would be able to fit it. What CPU cooler are use using if I may ask ?


I'm useing the Tuniq Tower 120, which gives me about 1.5cm of clearence between the two coolers, but you shouldn't have any problems fitting Noctua's NH-U12 to the board.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*

ISPROG, TACTICAL!!! please tell me more about the 120mm Noctua idea!!! wouldn't Robilar's CPU cooler work if it were mounted so it blows towards the top of your case (200mm fan of my A900) !!!!!!! then I could slap the Spirit on the SB and you'd get a super cold NB and CPU with amazing airflow configuration!!! think of the NB 120mm fan feeding the CPU's 110CMF 120mm fan!!! Then all of that getting released outwards through a blow-hole!!! That sounds like a promising air setup!!!


I actually have my Tuniq Tower blowing upwards aswell, sucking air through the Noctua. I've since installed a small ducting pipe to direct the air from my side panel 120mm between my two 8800GTS cards though. Mesh has also finally replaced the window on my Armour's side panel, I can finally enclose my case properly now without temperatures sky rocketing.


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Drmartin, what do you mean about driver config?
I made an XP-32 floppy rfor the Raid drivers with the ASUS CD... it has a tab that makes floppys for you... then I downloaded the latest 680i mobo chipset drivers from NVIDIA...

ISPROG, TACTICAL!!! please tell me more about the 120mm Noctua idea!!! wouldn't Robilar's CPU cooler work if it were mounted so it blows towards the top of your case (200mm fan of my A900) !!!!!!! then I could slap the Spirit on the SB and you'd get a super cold NB and CPU with amazing airflow configuration!!! think of the NB 120mm fan feeding the CPU's 110CMF 120mm fan!!! Then all of that getting released outwards through a blow-hole!!! That sounds like a promising air setup!!!


how do you have your drives (hard drives / raid ) not drivers. are you running 2 striped sets?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Drmartin, what do you mean about driver config?
I made an XP-32 floppy rfor the Raid drivers with the ASUS CD... it has a tab that makes floppys for you... then I downloaded the latest 680i mobo chipset drivers from NVIDIA...

ISPROG, TACTICAL!!! please tell me more about the 120mm Noctua idea!!! wouldn't Robilar's CPU cooler work if it were mounted so it blows towards the top of your case (200mm fan of my A900) !!!!!!! then I could slap the Spirit on the SB and you'd get a super cold NB and CPU with amazing airflow configuration!!! think of the NB 120mm fan feeding the CPU's 110CMF 120mm fan!!! Then all of that getting released outwards through a blow-hole!!! That sounds like a promising air setup!!!

US good to see that you got your rig stabilized. Had to get my cottage opened up for the summer and some knob took down the telephone pole that provides cable (And internet) to my cottage.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
I'm useing the Tuniq Tower 120, which gives me about 1.5cm of clearence between the two coolers, but you shouldn't have any problems fitting Noctua's NH-U12 to the board.

I actually have my Tuniq Tower blowing upwards aswell, sucking air through the Noctua. I've since installed a small ducting pipe to direct the air from my side panel 120mm between my two 8800GTS cards though. Mesh has also finally replaced the window on my Armour's side panel, I can finally enclose my case properly now without temperatures sky rocketing.

No WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dude!!! I am getting my Spirit in the mail today... please post a pic of your setup... I might go that way to get better NB cooling!!!

Would a Yate Loon 120mm fit on the Noctua... with the Tuniq?!? please post pics and details.... cause if that's the case I am $50 from a sick air setup... then PHASE for the CPU!!! muahahaha....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drmartin48106* 
how do you have your drives (hard drives / raid ) not drivers. are you running 2 striped sets?

I have two RAID0 (stiped) running with 128k... they are 7200.10 Seagates and one gives me 134MB/s while the other is significantly slower so I am rebuilding it with different drives that I have here... (same type of drives though)

and then I have a single one with XP-32 on it

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
US good to see that you got your rig stabilized. Had to get my cottage opened up for the summer and some knob took down the telephone pole that provides cable (And internet) to my cottage.

Oh, no prob... I would have loved to see you around while I was in the think of it but the other guys subbed for you just fine








BTW I was just editing again... it is coming along finally but I still have to dubb 100% of the audio! aghhh!!!

hehehe... check this out... this a true High Def post...

too bad I am still to get Photoshop installed... hahaha PAINT!!!


----------



## USlatin

hey Robilar... do you think I might have caused permanent damage to the NB?
I had about 30+ freezes before I had the balls to try and mess with it mid-project...


----------



## canadazenmaster

Here's my pictures:

http://gallery.filefront.com/CanadaZenmaster/97112/

Overclocked @ 3.4Ghz (took it to 3.6 but no point right now). 
Ram @ 1t 3-3-3-7 (9800MBps read, 7800MBps write [Everest Ultimate], 7800MBps combined [Sandra 2007])

Vcore is 1.4000V 
Northbridge 1.45V (to get it stable)
Ram 2.2V
All other voltages as specified in first post.

CPU Tjunction [Hottest Area] 34C

Turning on Prime95 AND PDF password cracker -> 51C is hottest I can get it with 100% utilization on BOTH cores. Prime95 does not fully load both cores







I really like the cooling in this case, the airflow is very high and the noise very low especially compared to my old rig. This computer is going to last me 4 years just like the last one!

CPU base 25C
MB 32C
HD's 23C

GPU Diode [Hottest Area] 54C
-> Oc'ed 8800 GTS to 570/850 for now. More in a few years when I need it.

Northbridge 18C <-Via Everest
Southbridge 15C <-Ditto


----------



## drmartin48106

I would like to bench mark my sys prior to installing anything or tweeking it. Any suggestions on free tools would be helpfull (along with links).

is 3dmark basc fine for grapgics?

is SP2004 Orthos Edition what I need to stress test?

Any help would be aprecheated.

Thanks,
D


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


I would like to bench mark my sys prior to installing anything or tweeking it. Any suggestions on free tools would be helpfull (along with links).

is 3dmark basc fine for grapgics?

is SP2004 Orthos Edition what I need to stress test?

Any help would be aprecheated.

Thanks,
D


Hi and welcome to the forum.And in this great guide thread.Here you can download some tools.http://www.overclock.net/downloads/
And for gpu and other benchmarks get them in here.http://www.majorgeeks.com/downloads4.html
Hope it help.


----------



## USlatin

Ok Tactical... I couldn't wait for you... heheh... I ordered the Noctua!!!!

I am so freeking exited about this Air setup now!!!!!

The only thing that could make it better would be if I got a TT with 8mm pipes or something like that... hahha...

I guess my next stop is a phase cooler for the CPU... is that Cryo-Z ever gonna come out? I wonder what it could do with this MoBo... I bet we'd get all the way up to the highest FSB the MoBo can handle and that would be the limiting factor, right?


----------



## oliverg

Hi all,

I have managed to get my rig Orthos table to 3.65Ghz on water.

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=211487

I wanted to know, what is the max VCore voltage that everyone else runs at? I am currently at 1.575V - 33-35C idle 50-52 stressed. I have my CPU VTT voltage maxed to 1.55V - Northbridge at 1.45V (24C idle). My E6700 is a B1 (engineering release) version.

Kind regards

My system
Intel E6700-ES(B1) - ASUS P5N32E-SLI - 4GB OCZ PC6400 Platinum REV2 - 2X 8800GTX GeForce in SLI - 2X160GB Raptors in RAID0 - 2X750GB RAID1 - Thermaltake Armour with custom dual radiator 1/2' barb water cooled - Thermaltake 850W TT PSU - Samsung 226BW 'S' panel - Logitech G7 laser mouse


----------



## USlatin

I just realized something...

I have the Noctua coming for the NB and a Spirit for the SB... but I have my X-FI on the top slot and I like it there... if I brought it down to fit the Spirit it would be awfully close to the PSU and then I might hear more interference on my audio...

so I have to get a Jing Ting or some ERS paper ... hummm...

it was the Spirit that could not fit on the NB with an X-Fi correct? is there NO way... how about bending something?


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverg*


Hi all,

I have managed to get my rig Orthos table to 3.65Ghz on water.

I wanted to know, what is the max VCore voltage that everyone else runs at? I am currently at 1.575V - 33-35C idle 50-52 stressed. I have my CPU VTT voltage maxed to 1.55V - Northbridge at 1.45V (24C idle). My E6700 is a B1 (engineering release) version.


Hi oliverg,

You are in the right place and welcome....

Could you please fill out your system specs, It makes it easy in future posts for others to help you out.

I see you you have a similar setup to alexisd so you will get the most help from him, he has done a lot of of benching.

To help us out you could post some screens of cpu-z (cpu and memory)

It looks like you are on the right track and are getting a higher clock with less volts than Alexisd
You will find that most 6700 chips do take a lot of volts to get a high OC. It is a little high but hey it works and temps are good.

If you are happy with your clock then you can start decreasing your volts 1 setting at a time and testing again. 30 min will do but i suggest 2 or more hours orthos
Have you manually set your memory timing are you running 1:1 or 4:5
If you are running 1:1 you could try to get your ram @ 3-4-4-10 instead of your stock 4-4-4-15. You can push the volts up to 2.2V but check it with another program (everest) or the bios voltage monitor as this board does deliver a little more volts over what you set in the bios.
Also try to get your ram to run 1T
With the VTT voltage try to back it down as this is outside of what intel recommends. I posted a quote about the subject on page 170 This also covers you cpu volts.
This will start you off & I am sure alexisd will have more to offer.

P.S. where did you pull the ES chip from????
Could not find one anywhere.


----------



## USlatin

Ok... so while my computer was all destroyed I finally decided to try to get a higher bench out of my second RAID0 which out of the blue dropped from 132MN/s to 98... I set up three different RAID0's with the extra drives I had and I got one to clock slightly higher at 110MB/s while the other held up at 135MB/s...

So I guess it isn't the SB but crappy drives...

I also found myself re-cabling the whole case to bring the wires to the front... it doesn't look pretty but it gives me much better airflow!

Pics in my Gallery in 5min... EDIT: oops... I still need to install Photoshop, heheh... maybe later


----------



## oliverg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *charger265*


Hi oliverg,

You are in the right place and welcome....

Could you please fill out your system specs, It makes it easy in future posts for others to help you out.

I see you you have a similar setup to alexisd so you will get the most help from him, he has done a lot of of benching.

To help us out you could post some screens of cpu-z (cpu and memory)

It looks like you are on the right track and are getting a higher clock with less volts than Alexisd
You will find that most 6700 chips do take a lot of volts to get a high OC. It is a little high but hey it works and temps are good.

If you are happy with your clock then you can start decreasing your volts 1 setting at a time and testing again. 30 min will do but i suggest 2 or more hours orthos
Have you manually set your memory timing are you running 1:1 or 4:5
If you are running 1:1 you could try to get your ram @ 3-4-4-10 instead of your stock 4-4-4-15. You can push the volts up to 2.2V but check it with another program (everest) or the bios voltage monitor as this board does deliver a little more volts over what you set in the bios.
Also try to get your ram to run 1T
With the VTT voltage try to back it down as this is outside of what intel recommends. I posted a quote about the subject on page 170 This also covers you cpu volts.
This will start you off & I am sure alexisd will have more to offer.

P.S. where did you pull the ES chip from????
Could not find one anywhere.


Thank you for the warm welcome.

I will organise some SSs of CPUz asap and post them up.

Voltage decreases (VCore) aren't working - if I even bring VCore voltage down a single notch, the system wont run Orthos stable.

Orthos benching has been done for 8 hours overnight without any hiccups. I actually didn't do that intentionally, I set it up and fell asleep. Woke up the next day and it was still at it. Whilst I was suprised, I was also happy and worried knowing I'd probably reduced my CPUs lifespan by 20%!!

I have had my RAM tighter - the default this set came with was actually 5-5-5-15 (on auto) and the voltage was way too low at the start - I've had mem voltages at 2.2V but as I'm running unlinked (11:12 FSB







RAM) I prefer to keep voltages at the lowest stable. I'm not as concerned with ram (am currently at 4-4-4-12/1T) - I really wanted to know what max vcore voltages others have been able to sustain without letting the magic smoke out.

Thanks very much for the VTT CPU voltage tip - I read earlier on somone had the setting maxed out - I used to run it at AUTO but I was getting erratic temps. I had started the thread from the beginning, got to page 100 and then just used the search feature! I will go back and read page 170 in a moment.

As for the ES procs , I own an IT company (Microsoft Certified Partner) we used to get CPUs sent to us all the time for evaluation.

Thanks again for your excellent information and time.

Kind regards


----------



## trueg50

Hey everyone,

I am new to this forum.

Just out of curiosity, has any one tried the new Thermalright HR-09's?

http://www.xoxide.com/thermalright-hr-09u.html

and the other model is:

http://www.xoxide.com/thermalright-hr-09s.html

they are supposed to compatible with this board as in the FAQ (http://www.thermalright.com/a_page/m...pport_hr09.htm) it is compatible with the Striker Extreme.

My question is, are they worth the ~$20 for one, or $80 for two of them plus the accompanying HR-05's? if so, how much do they effect the board temps?


----------



## charger265

Hey USlatin,

In the future you may like to try something like this, to really stress you OC
But for 24 hours
We don't want a repeat of a corrupted OS and lost data. HEHEHhe
As you can see it also bumped my temps up by 2c over normal full load.


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverg*


Thank you for the warm welcome.

Orthos benching has been done for 8 hours overnight without any hiccups. I actually didn't do that intentionally, I set it up and fell asleep. Woke up the next day and it was still at it. Whilst I was suprised, I was also happy and worried knowing I'd probably reduced my CPUs lifespan by 20%!!

I have had my RAM tighter - the default this set came with was actually 5-5-5-15 (on auto) and the voltage was way too low at the start - I've had mem voltages at 2.2V but as I'm running unlinked (11:12 FSB







RAM) I prefer to keep voltages at the lowest stable. I'm not as concerned with ram (am currently at 4-4-4-12/1T) - I really wanted to know what max vcore voltages others have been able to sustain without letting the magic smoke out.

As for the ES procs , I own an IT company (Microsoft Certified Partner) we used to get CPUs sent to us all the time for evaluation.


Don't be too worried about your Vcore, I have seen people running the @ 1.6V+ for months on end and they have not killed one yet.
But there has been a lot of discussion on this topic with all the C2D so just search the threads
Heres one Link

This board seems to auto set memory @ 5-5-5-15 for every set I have tried & under volt stock 1.89V just enough to run 
This is the ram & timings I was talking about Link 
I may have it wrong but I think this is what you are running....
You could get better timings out of them @ or under stock MHz
Just to let you know I have had this board posting and stable @ 515FSB so with the unlocked multi you could get a serous quick pc.
The NB strap kills my benchmark scores @ that speed even though i get over 9500MB\\s memory test on sandra
Link to guide


----------



## Robilar

I've been able to hit as high as 524 FSB stable but there are better ways to get a max overclock. This board benches faster with higher multi lower FSB combinations.

Also, the ram will work in some cases when undervolted from manufacturer specs but I would not recommend it. Always manually set your ram on first boot otherwise you can sometimes get stability issues. Auto for memory as you mentioned is around 1.9. Most ram needs 2.1 to run properly.


----------



## oliverg

Thanks for the information









Charger and Robilar - I've spent some time reading your posts. You guys are a credit to the community.

Kind regards


----------



## Leshalles

Hi- I'm new here. Thank you very much for all the help getting started.

My question is, do I need to up BIOS settings until Everest reports desired voltage, or do I trust that the BIOS setting is more accurate than MB sensor reports? This applies to both CPU Core and VTT voltages. (It looks like tests show that neither the BIOS settings nor the sensor readings are correct.)

Here are more details on my system:
=====================================

Asus P5n32-E SLI, E6600, Bios 11.03. Vista 64 (also Win2k3 32 dual boot using EasyBCD). Coolermaster Aquagate Mini R120 liquid cpu cooler, stock passive cooling on NBC and SBC. (I also have 9 case fans running, and mounted a second 120mm fan on the inside of the Aquagate radiator.)

With the default settings, Everest 4.00.976 reports CPU Core voltage at 1.28. It looks like, from my notes, that when I set overclock to manual, the CPU core voltage defaulted to a reported 1.39v. (I am using the latest OCCT for stability testing.)

When I increment up the CPU setting from 1.40v to 1.4375 volts in the minimum steps, Everest and Probe II both report CPU core voltage at 1.38, fluctuating at times 1.36 to 1.39 volts. It doesn't show any significant change as I bump the BIOS setting.

CPU VTT reports in Everest at 1.55v, set in Bios at 1.50v. Set in Bios at 1.55v Everest and Probe II report 1.60v.

The temperatures all stay ok, about 50deg max.

=================================================

My idea is that I don't have time to mod the MB, so I will stick to stock NB and SB voltages and modest overclock. However, system is not stable at 1450 Mhz FSB, 1.4125v CPU core BIOS setting (1.38v reported by Everest). I had thought I might get to 1500 Mhz without changing NBC and SBC voltages as the board is specified to 1333 Mhz.

OCCT ran 3 hours at 1.4125v CPU and 1492 FSB before a spontaneous restart, but then later with the same settings at 1450 FSB it locked up during Windows startup.

Can the NBC and SBC voltages be increased a little bit with passive cooling (and lots of case fans)?

-Leshalles


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Leshalles*


Hi- I'm new here. Thank you very much for all the help getting started.

My question is, do I need to up BIOS settings until Everest reports desired voltage, or do I trust that the BIOS setting is more accurate than MB sensor reports? This applies to both CPU Core and VTT voltages. (It looks like tests show that neither the BIOS settings nor the sensor readings are correct.)

Here are more details on my system:
=====================================

Asus P5n32-E SLI, E6600, Bios 11.03. Vista 64 (also Win2k3 32 dual boot using EasyBCD). Coolermaster Aquagate Mini R120 liquid cpu cooler, stock passive cooling on NBC and SBC. (I also have 9 case fans running, and mounted a second 120mm fan on the inside of the Aquagate radiator.)

With the default settings, Everest 4.00.976 reports CPU Core voltage at 1.28. It looks like, from my notes, that when I set overclock to manual, the CPU core voltage defaulted to a reported 1.39v. (I am using the latest OCCT for stability testing.)

When I increment up the CPU setting from 1.40v to 1.4375 volts in the minimum steps, Everest and Probe II both report CPU core voltage at 1.38, fluctuating at times 1.36 to 1.39 volts. It doesn't show any significant change as I bump the BIOS setting.

CPU VTT reports in Everest at 1.55v, set in Bios at 1.50v. Set in Bios at 1.55v Everest and Probe II report 1.60v.

The temperatures all stay ok, about 50deg max.

=================================================

My idea is that I don't have time to mod the MB, so I will stick to stock NB and SB voltages and modest overclock. However, system is not stable at 1450 Mhz FSB, 1.4125v CPU core BIOS setting (1.38v reported by Everest). I had thought I might get to 1500 Mhz without changing NBC and SBC voltages as the board is specified to 1333 Mhz.

OCCT ran 3 hours at 1.4125v CPU and 1492 FSB before a spontaneous restart, but then later with the same settings at 1450 FSB it locked up during Windows startup.

Can the NBC and SBC voltages be increased a little bit with passive cooling (and lots of case fans)?

-Leshalles


1.5 on SB
1.55 on CPU VTT, Robilar says this is the most important, hard to argue with him.
1.45+ on the NB
The NB gets very warm, I believe most people here have opted to go with aftermarket active cooling. Extreme Spirit II.


----------



## SA3L

when I overcklock my cpu (I have 1002 bios) i need to set the vcore very high, it doesnt run stable at vcore 1,45 @3,4ghz (I have the E6420 cpu), shouldnt that be possible to run at?


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *charger265*


Hey USlatin,

In the future you may like to try something like this, to really stress you OC
But for 24 hours
We don't want a repeat of a corrupted OS and lost data. HEHEHhe
As you can see it also bumped my temps up by 2c over normal full load.


I was 12hs Orthos stable... I guess re-flashing the BIOS without setting it back to stock could have done something... also I think Alex said that you need to check for stability when switching BIOS and that makes a lot more sense now... even if they say they only added compatibility with certain RAM modules... And finally I think I might have started having a thermal problem as summer set in... I built when it was still cool...

Does the video card interact with the CPU via the NB? Or does the Video card affect the NB in any way? Cause if so I also switched drivers on my GTS and I OC'ed higher...

Then finally... every time I froze up and had to power off had the chance of corrupting important OS files that may have added to the instability problems...

I ask again cause I can never get anyone to answer this question other than Charger who already weighed in on the issue... May I have permanently damaged my NB?


----------



## Hammerstein

Hi everyone,

First of all please take it easy on me and be gentle as i admit to being a total noob with regards overclocking.









Read some very interesting posts and some exceptional replies (Robilar) and for this reason i want to try and overcome my technofear of the BIOS and attempt an overclock for the very first time.

I do not want to touch any of the voltage settings to start of with and would just like info on how to change my FSB and alter my memory from 800 to 533 in order to proceed with my overclock. I am only looking to overclock to about 2800 or 2900 as im hoping this should be a very easy thing to achieve. My CPU temp is currently running at 33 oC which i believe is very acceptable. (please correct any of statements if i am wrong)

My Board is an ASUS P5n32-E SLI PLUS, my CPU is a Core2 e6600, CPU fan is Zalman CNPS 7700 and my memory is Corsair C5 (4GB).

So armed with the information supplied above can anybody be kind enough to tell me how i would go by attempting this oveclock.

Many Many thanks in advance


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Hi and welcome to the forum.And in this great guide thread.Here you can download some tools.http://www.overclock.net/downloads/
And for gpu and other benchmarks get them in here.http://www.majorgeeks.com/downloads4.html
Hope it help.

Thanks for the info and links. I agree, this is an excellent forum. I have learned a lot and planing on putting it to use. I did run an 3DMark with stock mobo setting and got 10838. Not that it means anything to me but I have heard it was good. Not sure what other tools I should use for benchmarking but its a start.

Thanks again,
D


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I was 12hs Orthos stable... I guess re-flashing the BIOS without setting it back to stock could have done something... also I think Alex said that you need to check for stability when switching BIOS and that makes a lot more sense now... even if they say they only added compatibility with certain RAM modules... And finally I think I might have started having a thermal problem as summer set in... I built when it was still cool...

Does the video card interact with the CPU via the NB? Or does the Video card affect the NB in any way? Cause if so I also switched drivers on my GTS and I OC'ed higher...

Then finally... every time I froze up and had to power off had the chance of corrupting important OS files that may have added to the instability problems...

I ask again cause I can never get anyone to answer this question other than Charger who already weighed in on the issue... May I have permanently damaged my NB?


I would think that if you damaged it, you would have stability problems regardless of the clock.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hammerstein*


Hi everyone,

First of all please take it easy on me and be gentle as i admit to being a total noob with regards overclocking.









Read some very interesting posts and some exceptional replies (Robilar) and for this reason i want to try and overcome my technofear of the BIOS and attempt an overclock for the very first time.

I do not want to touch any of the voltage settings to start of with and would just like info on how to change my FSB and alter my memory from 800 to 533 in order to proceed with my overclock. I am only looking to overclock to about 2800 or 2900 as im hoping this should be a very easy thing to achieve. My CPU temp is currently running at 33 oC which i believe is very acceptable. (please correct any of statements if i am wrong)

My Board is an ASUS P5n32-E SLI PLUS, my CPU is a Core2 e6600, CPU fan is Zalman CNPS 7700 and my memory is Corsair C5 (4GB).

So armed with the information supplied above can anybody be kind enough to tell me how i would go by attempting this oveclock.

Many Many thanks in advance


Hi Ham, Welcome.
Your post says that you have an SLI Plus yet your system says you have an SLI. If you have an SLI then most, if not all, the information you need is within the first couple of posts of Robilars' thread.
Reread that, if you require additional assistance then question what it is that you do not understand.
Remember, the BIOS is your friend


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
I would think that if you damaged it, you would have stability problems regardless of the clock.

Yea, I remember you mentioning this and it sounds like it could be the case, sure hope so!
But I thing I heard about chips becoming less OC'able with time...

Anyone else care to weigh in?


----------



## NCspecV81

*edit* nothing to see here folks!~ just me being a tard and posting in the wrong thread! *whistling ensues*


----------



## charger265

Quote:

I was 12hs Orthos stable... I guess re-flashing the BIOS without setting it back to stock could have done something... also I think Alex said that you need to check for stability when switching BIOS and that makes a lot more sense now... even if they say they only added compatibility with certain RAM modules... And finally I think I might have started having a thermal problem as summer set in... I built when it was still cool...

Does the video card interact with the CPU via the NB? Or does the Video card affect the NB in any way? Cause if so I also switched drivers on my GTS and I OC'ed higher...

Then finally... every time I froze up and had to power off had the chance of corrupting important OS files that may have added to the instability problems...

I ask again cause I can never get anyone to answer this question other than Charger who already weighed in on the issue... May I have permanently damaged my NB?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
I would think that if you damaged it, you would have stability problems regardless of the clock.


I would have to agree.
From my experience when you damage a component, you can never get it stable @ any clock.
Didn't mean to freak you out. But the extra cooling was well worth it.
You are lucky I fried the NB on my first board. 1.55V no fan 501FSB it just turned off and stopped working.


----------



## USlatin

ok... that's two of you and I am half way about it... sure would love to hear more people agree with you guys...

side note... CravinR1 downloaded the Matrix Storage Manager for his ICH8R south bridge and got slightly faster average reads out of his RAID0's with the same drives as me... is there such a thing for the 680i? Or is that sort of thing in the *WinXP RAIDTOOL Application (v6.91) "Sedona"* which is in the chipset driver download found at here at Nvidia?
Any hope for a new release? that one is as old as Novemner 2006


----------



## Hammerstein

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Hi Ham, Welcome.
Your post says that you have an SLI Plus yet your system says you have an SLI. If you have an SLI then most, if not all, the information you need is within the first couple of posts of Robilars' thread.
Reread that, if you require additional assistance then question what it is that you do not understand.
Remember, the BIOS is your friend










See i told you i was a nub







. My mobo is the P5N32-e sli PLUS i will edit my system now. Its just so confusing with so many variations of basically the same motherboard, some are 650 and some are 680. As i have already mentioned, i want to attempt an OC yet remain as safe as possible ( if that is at all possible) aiming for around 2800 to 2900 . that is until i gain my experience and knowledge.

One thing i forgot to mention in my previous post is once the OC is complete how do i stress test to ensure stability?

Again thanks in advance.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Leshalles*


Hi- I'm new here. Thank you very much for all the help getting started.

My question is, do I need to up BIOS settings until Everest reports desired voltage, or do I trust that the BIOS setting is more accurate than MB sensor reports? This applies to both CPU Core and VTT voltages. (It looks like tests show that neither the BIOS settings nor the sensor readings are correct.)

Here are more details on my system:
=====================================

Asus P5n32-E SLI, E6600, Bios 11.03. Vista 64 (also Win2k3 32 dual boot using EasyBCD). Coolermaster Aquagate Mini R120 liquid cpu cooler, stock passive cooling on NBC and SBC. (I also have 9 case fans running, and mounted a second 120mm fan on the inside of the Aquagate radiator.)

With the default settings, Everest 4.00.976 reports CPU Core voltage at 1.28. It looks like, from my notes, that when I set overclock to manual, the CPU core voltage defaulted to a reported 1.39v. (I am using the latest OCCT for stability testing.)

When I increment up the CPU setting from 1.40v to 1.4375 volts in the minimum steps, Everest and Probe II both report CPU core voltage at 1.38, fluctuating at times 1.36 to 1.39 volts. It doesn't show any significant change as I bump the BIOS setting.

CPU VTT reports in Everest at 1.55v, set in Bios at 1.50v. Set in Bios at 1.55v Everest and Probe II report 1.60v.

The temperatures all stay ok, about 50deg max.

=================================================

My idea is that I don't have time to mod the MB, so I will stick to stock NB and SB voltages and modest overclock. However, system is not stable at 1450 Mhz FSB, 1.4125v CPU core BIOS setting (1.38v reported by Everest). I had thought I might get to 1500 Mhz without changing NBC and SBC voltages as the board is specified to 1333 Mhz.

OCCT ran 3 hours at 1.4125v CPU and 1492 FSB before a spontaneous restart, but then later with the same settings at 1450 FSB it locked up during Windows startup.

Can the NBC and SBC voltages be increased a little bit with passive cooling (and lots of case fans)?

-Leshalles


The bios voltage readings are accurate. One thing you have to take into consideration is vdroop. This is when the voltage fluctuates under load (vcore). You can do a vdroop mod to the board so that the voltage stays constant regardless of load but thats a bit advanced.

ntune version 5.05.18 will read vcore accurately (matched to the bios).

Regardless of the number of fans in your case, the northbridge (And to a lesser degree the sb) chipsets will get very hot. Even at stock volts, both chipsets temps are affected by cpu overclocks (and if you don't have both running at 1.5V, you will be limited in your OC regardless). Active cooling is pretty much a necessity on this board.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SA3L*


when I overcklock my cpu (I have 1002 bios) i need to set the vcore very high, it doesnt run stable at vcore 1,45 @3,4ghz (I have the E6420 cpu), shouldnt that be possible to run at?


First, I would recommend going to the 1103 bios. It is an improvement over the 1002. Second, 3.4 is a very solid oc for an E6420 but may be its ceiling depending on the stepping of the chip. All cpu's are not created equal and some overclock better than others. You may have to upp vcore to closer to 1.5 (watch your temps though)


----------



## USlatin

Hey Robilar do you think I might have caused permanent damage to my NB and it is going to limit my OC'ing potential... I am sorry to keep asking you but you read this thread a lot more carefully than me with a solid OC'ing foundation before you started it so I would really appreciate your opinion no matter how small it might be


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
I was 12hs Orthos stable... I guess re-flashing the BIOS without setting it back to stock could have done something... also I think Alex said that you need to check for stability when switching BIOS and that makes a lot more sense now... even if they say they only added compatibility with certain RAM modules... And finally I think I might have started having a thermal problem as summer set in... I built when it was still cool...

Does the video card interact with the CPU via the NB? Or does the Video card affect the NB in any way? Cause if so I also switched drivers on my GTS and I OC'ed higher...

Then finally... every time I froze up and had to power off had the chance of corrupting important OS files that may have added to the instability problems...

I ask again cause I can never get anyone to answer this question other than Charger who already weighed in on the issue... May I have permanently damaged my NB?

The video card theoretically does weigh in on overclocks. This is one of the reasons that linkboost was removed from the bios in the latest revisions. It boosted voltage through the pci lanes to increase the graphics cards voltage (and supposedly its speed. it was like a mini overclock). That is also the reason I recommend disabling Nvidia GPU Ex as it has a similar effect. So to answer your question, it can affect it. Also, your graphics card may be on the same 12v rail as your cpu and as such the extra draw could be pulling more than the line can stably support. I believe your antec has two 12v rails?

You absolutely have to reset your bios settings to stock when changing the bios revision. The board will try to keep your overclock settings when changing bios but the newer (or older bios if you are back flashing) bios may not be stable at the settings the other version was working at and yet it is being forced to run at those settings (which technically can't happen when you are going in and out of the bios to overclock. If you hit a setting that doesn't work, it crashes or locks up, etc and you reboot and try something different). The short answer is that it can damage the board (And there have been reports of this on the asus forums).

Can you have permanently damaged your NB? Sure, its possible. I have personally fried an NB on a system I built for a friend with this board. We were using a coolit freezone tec for the cpu overclock and water cooling for the nb and sb and graphics cards. While running orthos overnight, the pump on the water cooling system failed and crashed the system eventually. When I rebooted the system in the morning, everything seemed fine at stock settings. If i tried to increase the nb even .1 in voltage it crashed every time. We rma'd the board and got a new one but the nb was definitely pooched.

Can restarting crashed os cause instabilities? Yes in windows it can. You could corrupt one of the system files and it was cause all manner of problems. Sometimes a system restore can resolve this and sometimes it can't/

Hope this helps


----------



## USlatin

my PSU has three rails... 19, 19 and 19 amps but I think the juice is distributable... I am not so knowledgeable about PSUs... but it would seem that
I am only using two... MoBo and GTS

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817371001

http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=964&pageID=2559 (this is a review in case anyone is interested)
"I highly recommend the Antec TruePower Trio 650W, it is the definition of function before fashion; the price and results prove it." he he... I like that one
"...this power supply has already garnered attention from Federal Government IT departments." that can't be bad either...

It does look ugly though

Could the NB show little signs of problems and only limit my clocks...?

Thank you so much for replying, I bet you must be busy being summer and all... gotta spend time with the fam while it is hot... I got family in Montreal... must be nice up there

Sorry about chasing you around so much... I've been quite preoccupied with this stuff lately...


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
my PSU has three rails... 19, 19 and 19 amps and I thing they are distributable... I am not so knowledgeable about PSUs... I am only using two... MoBo and GTS

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817371001

*Could the NB show little signs of problems and only limit my clocks...?*

Thank you so much for replying, I bet you must be busy being summer and all... gotta spend time with the fam while it is hot... I got family in Montreal... must be nice up there

Sorry about chasing you around so much... I've been quite preoccupied with this stuff lately...

Yes, as I mentioned above, I definitely damaged a nb on the board and it could run stable at stock without issue. If I changed the voltage on the nb in even the smallest increment the board crashed immediately. The nb has a major effect on cpu overclocking (especially on nvidia chipset boards. This is why it gets so hot).

Regarding your power supply, the antec's are decent. Have you run the psu tester program to see where you weigh in?

http://www.extreme.outervision.com/p...ulatorlite.jsp


----------



## USlatin

hahahah!!!! I need a *689W* PSU for what I am running now ahahahahah!!!!
that was for the maximum aging facoring (30% aging) for 24/7 and for longer than a year of use...

*792W* if I SLI my 640MB...

*781W* if I don't SLI but go with a Q6600 at 3.6GHz... aghh!!!
*721W* same as above if I don't use it 24/7...
*661W* same as above if it ages well (this one is supposed to)

the second through fifth HDDs add 140W

this is scary Robilar...









hahah check this out.... if it ages well and I don't use it 24/7 then I need to loose my card reader and I am finally at an exact *650W* hahahha

I hope this thing over-states


----------



## mhw100

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/p...ulatorlite.jsp

Geez - I just plugged in my system parameters into that site and it calls for a 1300w PSU!!! It says that for my chip if I want to oc to 3.6ghz at 1.5v then this alone requires 250w.

Could this be why I can't get the bus up on either of my 2 boards in my sig? I can oc to 3.6ghz using a low bus and high multi but it won't post past a 1250mhz FSB. What do you think Robilar?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
hahahah!!!! I need a *689W* PSU for what I am running now ahahahahah!!!!
that was for the maximum aging facoring (30% aging) for 24/7 and for longer than a year of use...

*792W* if I SLI my 640MB...

*781W* if I don't SLI but go with a Q6600 at 3.6GHz... aghh!!!
*721W* same as above if I don't use it 24/7...
*661W* same as above if it ages well (this one is supposed to)

the second through fifth HDDs add 140W

this is scary Robilar...









hahah check this out.... if it ages well and I don't use it 24/7 then I need to loose my card reader and I am finally at an exact *650W* hahahha

I hope this thing over-states

Remember, thats at 100% load as well. Most power supplies have their rated voltage based on ongoing 80% load requirements (which is way lower than what you will need). Power supplies are often the main reason for system instability as its usually the last component that people think about when upgrading. When I got this board, I had a Seasonic S12 600W, a good power supply (and a pair of 7900gtx at the time as well). I upgraded to a silverstone 750w that was a dud, then a Silverstone 850w that was DOA out of the box and finally to my enermax 850w. With all of the prior power supplies to my current one, I had stability issues during overclocking...

You may need a better power supply my friend...


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mhw100* 
Geez - I just plugged in my system parameters into that site and it calls for a 1300w PSU!!! It says that for my chip if I want to oc to 3.6ghz at 1.5v then this alone requires 250w.

Could this be why I can't get the bus up on either of my 2 boards in my sig? I can oc to 3.6ghz using a low bus and high multi but it won't post past a 1250mhz FSB. What do you think Robilar?

Of course it could. The older thermaltakes aren't known for being great to begin with (ahthough their new 1000 W and 1200 W power supplies have gotten stellar reviews).

If you don't have the necessary power, it will not overclock stably.


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Of course it could. The older thermaltakes aren't known for being great to begin with (ahthough their new 1000 W and 1200 W power supplies have gotten stellar reviews).

If you don't have the necessary power, it will not overclock stably.


So even though I can oc without a problem to 3.6ghz it still matters i.e. does a bigger fsb / lower multi require more energy than lower fsb / lower multi? I would have thought that the clock speed would have determined the overall requirement regardless of how it got there?


----------



## Robilar

http://www.hardocp.com/article.html?...wxLCxobmV3cw==

the thermaltake toughpower 1200W is apparently really an excellent power supply. Read the review I attached from HardOCP. They push the power supplies harder than any other review site I've read.


----------



## USlatin

that sucks...

and all along I thought I got just enough (when I bought it I thought I was gong over-kill)... well at least this one is supposed to last very long... it seems to be all about function over beauty...

so no SLi for me... and I just might loose that card reader or simply unplug it till I need it... then plug it in for a second... heheh then I will be ok if it ages well and I can OC my Quad with 1.45V to something that will make me happy... hehehe...

it seems I just barely made the cut with this PSU then...

what happens when you "over-draw" besides the obvious instability...

BTW.... Can you say CULPRIT FOR MY PROBLEMS!!! (together with all other three or four others







)


----------



## USlatin

should them as USBs if the Keyboard and mouse are?


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


http://www.hardocp.com/article.html?...wxLCxobmV3cw==

the thermaltake toughpower 1200W is apparently really an excellent power supply. Read the review I attached from HardOCP. They push the power supplies harder than any other review site I've read.


Thank you for the link. Sorry for being electrically challenged, but I don't understand why the FSB is the determinant and not the clock speed? Moreover, my box won't even post past 1250mhz regardless of clock speed which means it's not even starting to suck on the psu?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


should them as USBs if the Keyboard and mouse are?


usb keyboards and mice draw less than 2W each and are largely irrelevant in calculating voltages.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


that sucks...

and all along I thought I got just enough (when I bought it I thought I was gong over-kill)... well at least this one is supposed to last very long... it seems to be all about function over beauty...

so no SLi for me... and I just might loose that card reader or simply unplug it till I need it... then plug it in for a second... heheh then I will be ok if it ages well and I can OC my Quad with 1.45V to something that will make me happy... hehehe...

it seems I just barely made the cut with this PSU then...

what happens when you "over-draw" besides the obvious instability...

BTW.... Can you say CULPRIT FOR MY PROBLEMS!!! (together with all other three or four others







)


Over draw does two things:

It creates more heat inside the power supply. 50C is the absolute ceiling that most power supplies will stay functional at. The heat causes instability leading to crashes and catastrophic failurre (boom).

Second, it shortens the lifespan of the capacitors in the power supply itself


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mhw100*


Thank you for the link. Sorry for being electrically challenged, but I don't understand why the FSB is the determinant and not the clock speed? Moreover, my box won't even post past 1250mhz regardless of clock speed which means it's not even starting to suck on the psu?


Both have an effect but multi increases require less vcore than fsb upping does and as such create less wattage requirements. that is the one big benefit of unlocked cpu's (you and I had this discussion awhile back).

Also, you have a ton of hardware running off your psu even at stock and the thermaltake 850 power supplies are notorious for ripple (looks like they have corrected this ina big way on the new 1200w though)


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Both have an effect but multi increases require less vcore than fsb upping does and as such create less wattage requirements. that is the one big benefit of unlocked cpu's (you and I had this discussion awhile back).

Also, you have a ton of hardware running off your psu even at stock and the thermaltake 850 power supplies are notorious for ripple (looks like they have corrected this ina big way on the new 1200w though)


Very informative - thank you for that lesson Robilar!

Time to replace the 850w - oh well, it lasted 2 months before becoming obsolete.

So in your opinion, even though I'm not able to post with a big FSB, could this be the PSU i.e. the cpu isn't even getting a chance to get wound up?


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Second, it shortens the lifespan of the capacitors in the power supply itself










...

what do you say Robilar... upgrade or not... I really am pushing to get the G0 Q6600 as it is...


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*









...

what do you say Robilar... upgrade or not... I really am pushing to get the G0 Q6600 as it is...


If you intend to go to the quad, then I would say definitely yes. Its a future proofing move if you intend to go sli as well.

The reason for the huge wattages of the new power supplies is so that your "required" wattage will fall within the 80% efficiency envelope. Most of the power supplies out there will not run at 100% output for an extended period of time. If you want a recommendation, give me an idea as to your budget for a PS.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mhw100*


Very informative - thank you for that lesson Robilar!

Time to replace the 850w - oh well, it lasted 2 months before becoming obsolete.

So in your opinion, even though I'm not able to post with a big FSB, could this be the PSU i.e. the cpu isn't even getting a chance to get wound up?


Thats a possibility, also as I mentioned ripple and clean power are not synonomous with the one your currently own.


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Thats a possibility, also as I mentioned ripple and clean power are not synonomous with the one your currently own.


Got it. Many thanks again for always being such great help.


----------



## NCspecV81

I HOPE this 1kw in my current rig can power a q6600 and sli 8800gts's. =o(


----------



## Robilar

Yes it definitely can. PC Power is one of the best and the 12v rail on that thing is huge


----------



## USlatin

well my budget is $0 but I'll see what I san scrounge up


----------



## NCspecV81

Welp I've officially concluded that the heat on the NB is causing my overclocking woes past 3.5ghz. I know you guys recommended some coolers and so forth, but I'm really confined to space and getting another heat sink is really out of question right now especially since im trying to make sure I have funds available for the g0 stepping q6600 arrival.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NCspecV81*


Welp I've officially concluded that the heat on the NB is causing my overclocking woes past 3.5ghz. I know you guys recommended some coolers and so forth, but I'm really confined to space and getting another heat sink is really out of question right now especially since im trying to make sure I have funds available for the g0 stepping q6600 arrival.


Question:

What kind of voltages did you have to use to get your e6420 up to 3.5Ghz?? I have an e6400 @ 3.2Ghz using 1.48vcore, but I can't get any higher.


----------



## NCspecV81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


Question:

What kind of voltages did you have to use to get your e6420 up to 3.5Ghz?? I have an e6400 @ 3.2Ghz using 1.48vcore, but I can't get any higher.


1.41


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NCspecV81*


1.41


Wow.. you must have a much better processor than me...


----------



## NCspecV81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


Wow.. you must have a much better processor than me...



I dunno, I feel that I'm pretty lucky with the new steppings, considering I didnt make any voltage changes to get to 3.2 and i need like 1.36 on 3.4ghz and 1.41 on 3.5.


----------



## oliverg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mhw100*


Very informative - thank you for that lesson Robilar!

Time to replace the 850w - oh well, it lasted 2 months before becoming obsolete.

So in your opinion, even though I'm not able to post with a big FSB, could this be the PSU i.e. the cpu isn't even getting a chance to get wound up?


I dont think your PSU is an issue - I had a QX6700 in mine and no issues at all apart from NB heat. I had plenty of juice to spare. TTs are pretty efficient.


----------



## stargate125645

Any idea how to speed up the transfer rate for a RAID-0 array? I am getting really crappy speeds (115 MB/s with 4 Raptors in RAID-0). Yes, I loaded the drivers correctly. Yes, I'm sure.


----------



## Robilar

Alex here might be able to help you. I've seen that his rate of transfer is much higher


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oliverg*


I dont think your PSU is an issue - I had a QX6700 in mine and no issues at all apart from NB heat. I had plenty of juice to spare. TTs are pretty efficient.


Not all power supplies are created equal. I've seen 3 reviews on the thermaltake 850w (I was considering it earlier this year while i had a pair of 8800gtx). 1 review was postive and the other 2 not so much. You most likely got a "good" one. With that said, the new high wattage thermaltake stuff looks fantastic (Although they have switched manufacturers, I wonder why...







)


----------



## mhw100

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverg* 
I dont think your PSU is an issue - I had a QX6700 in mine and no issues at all apart from NB heat. I had plenty of juice to spare. TTs are pretty efficient.

How high were you able to get the FSB with the quad?


----------



## Leshalles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stargate125645* 
A 100cfm fan blowing onto the motherboard will do wonders for cooling the stock cooling setup.

Could you say more about how you did this?
I am looking for ways to mount fans to cool the northbridge and southbridge without removing the stock heat pipes.

I have four 44 cfm fans mounted on the side blowing down on the motherboard, but they may be too far away to help.

If I want to measure the temperature of the northbridge with a probe, is there some place to put the tip of the probe with the heatsink in place?


----------



## NCspecV81

*sigh* i decided to upgrade to 1103 bios and apparently it's killed my motherboard. how wonderful!


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stargate125645*


Any idea how to speed up the transfer rate for a RAID-0 array? I am getting really crappy speeds (115 MB/s with 4 Raptors in RAID-0). Yes, I loaded the drivers correctly. Yes, I'm sure.


This is a known problem on the 680i platform to crap out at ~120mbs. There is an article on it in Anandtech.

Ther workaround is to deselect the write caching and command queuing for both channels of the raid controller in the device manager.

The good news is even if you buy a $350 hardware raid controller you probably won't see a significant real world difference...so I'm told. I have a few friends who did just that and there rates went up to ~160mbs which is about the limit for the 150g raps and probably is meaningless for applications because there are other parameters that affect hd performance. Just for fun I've just ordered a $35 job to see if there is any change.


----------



## NCspecV81

anyone know the issue? I just flashed to the 1103 bios, reset the defaults, and when i restart my computer cuts on then right when it would usually post it cuts off with a flicker and I have to turn the PSU off and back on to power it up again. I cleared the CMOS just to make sure of that and well its doesnt help. any ideas anyone?


----------



## charger265

First off did you set everything to default before the update?
Have you tried with only 1 stick of ram in the slot closest to the cpu?


----------



## NCspecV81

only thing I done was flash with asus update..set everything to default first.. then I just rebooted when prompted.. now no boot.. powers on for a few seconds then flickers off.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mhw100*


This is a known problem on the 680i platform to crap out at ~120mbs. There is an article on it in Anandtech.

Ther workaround is to deselect the write caching and command queuing for both channels of the raid controller in the device manager.

The good news is even if you buy a $350 hardware raid controller you probably won't see a significant real world difference...so I'm told. I have a few friends who did just that and there rates went up to ~160mbs which is about the limit for the 150g raps and probably is meaningless for applications because there are other parameters that affect hd performance. Just for fun I've just ordered a $35 job to see if there is any change.


Dude!!! I have been asking about this one... I have two RAID0 with Seagate Perp 7200.10 and one gives me the "full" 134.4 while the other onlt 110MB/s... I will try this and report back
EDIT: Well I got a better speed.. 111.7MB/s hahaha... and 136.2 MB/s on the faster one... I think that's a record...








every little bit helps though thanks... Rep+

http://www.overclock.net/hard-drives...single-10.html <( *I think it is the current 7200rpm OCN RAID0 record!!!*)
brought it home from the stupid Intel South Bridge.. hahahah muahahahah...

About the point you make about buying a RAID controller... I bought the "best" controller for under $120 and it was crap... then to get a good one with a processor and big cache it is about $300 to $500 and they will do the same or worse.... very good point... that was actually the reason why I bought this board... otherwise I would have stayed with a cheaper MoBo... this South Bridge saved me money


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NCspecV81*


only thing I done was flash with asus update..set everything to default first.. then I just rebooted when prompted.. now no boot.. powers on for a few seconds then flickers off.


Probably corrupted the Bios chip. NEVER use Asus update.Use the Bios version EZFlash.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NCspecV81* 
only thing I done was flash with asus update..set everything to default first.. then I just rebooted when prompted.. now no boot.. powers on for a few seconds then flickers off.

Yikes. Guess you didn't read the first page of this thread in my guide where I specified to *never, ever* use the asus update utility with this board. It corrupts the bios about half the time.

I do have a solution however.

Here is what you need to do:

You need to get your hands on an older generation 775 intel processor. I used a celeron D336. For whatever reason, the board will read an older cpu but not the newer conroe (any of them). Download the 0602 bios onto a USB memory stick. Put the chip (the celeron) in and the system will boot. Go into the bios and use the ez flash utillity in there in conjunction with a usb memory stick. Reflash the bios back to 0602. Save and shut down. Put the conroe back in. The system will now boot normally. At that point you can put the 1103 bios on the USB memory stick and follow the same procedure to flash the bios safely.

An older P4 chip should work as well.

If you don't have a usb memory stick, go buy one, you'll need it in the future. I picked up an OCZ 2 GB for $20 Canadian and since then I've seen cheaper.


----------



## NCspecV81

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Yikes. Guess you didn't read the first page of this thread in my guide where I specified to *never, ever* use the asus update utility with this board. It corrupts the bios about half the time.

I do have a solution however.

Here is what you need to do:

You need to get your hands on an older generation 775 intel processor. I used a celeron D336. For whatever reason, the board will read an older cpu but not the newer conroe (any of them). Download the 0602 bios onto a USB memory stick. Put the chip (the celeron) in and the system will boot. Go into the bios and use the ez flash utillity in there in conjunction with a usb memory stick. Reflash the bios back to 0602. Save and shut down. Put the conroe back in. The system will now boot normally. At that point you can put the 1103 bios on the USB memory stick and follow the same procedure to flash the bios safely.

An older P4 chip should work as well.

If you don't have a usb memory stick, go buy one, you'll need it in the future. I picked up an OCZ 2 GB for $20 Canadian and since then I've seen cheaper.


So its indefinitely a currupt bios then? I'm just glad its not a dead board. Unfortunately for me I bought another p5n32-e sli last night in a panic attack to get something on its way as soon as possible. Look's like I'll have something up for sale here soon!


----------



## draxlondon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NCspecV81* 
*sigh* i decided to upgrade to 1103 bios and apparently it's killed my motherboard. how wonderful!

Before you follow Robilar's suggestion, I did have that exact same problem and it happened when I updated to 1103 (using EZFlash though).

Turns out it was my RAM. I used one stick at a time in slot A0 and got it to come up, changed the mem. voltage to 2.1 but it still crapped out with both sticks. After swapping out the one stick, I realised one of them was bad.

I'm waiting on the RMA from OCZ (which has so far taken nearly 2 weeks







)

Good luck


----------



## Robilar

Thats a separate issue. I had the same problem using the asus updater software (as have many others). Its almost a common problem (Which is why I bolded it in the guide)


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Dude!!! I have been asking about this one... I have two RAID0 with Seagate Perp 7200.10 and one gives me the "full" 134.4 while the other onlt 110MB/s... I will try this and report back
EDIT: Well I got a better speed.. 111.7MB/s hahaha... and 136.2 MB/s on the faster one... I think that's a record...








every little bit helps though thanks... Rep+

http://www.overclock.net/hard-drives...single-10.html <( *I think it is the current 7200rpm OCN RAID0 record!!!*)
brought it home from the stupid Intel South Bridge.. hahahah muahahahah...

About the point you make about buying a RAID controller... I bought the "best" controller for under $120 and it was crap... then to get a good one with a processor and big cache it is about $300 to $500 and they will do the same or worse.... very good point... that was actually the reason why I bought this board... otherwise I would have stayed with a cheaper MoBo... this South Bridge saved me money










I'm surprised the results didn't improve beyond that with the tweak. My HD Tach graph (like Anandtech) with the defaut settings looked like a flat line at 120mbs. I just ran it again with the tweak with a bunch of apps opened up and it was 143mbs...plus the graph looked normal i.e. tapering off towards the end of the graph. As you said you may be at the limit of the 7200s anyways. In any case I'm told that the Anandtech article overstates the problem because it is using a synthetic bench and moreover a 120mbs (680i) to 160mbs (ICH8R) on my raptors is not material even though it looks like a big difference.

I believe you are into media so I'm also surprised that with the expensive unit you bought e.g. $350-$500 you didn't see a difference _in your real world apps._ Most ppl wouldn't see a difference because they're not r/w intensive but I would have thought you would have shaved some time off. I read some reports that even though a synthetic bench like HD Tach doesn't show much of a difference, for something like what you're doing it might speed things up...even more so than the ICH8R. The $120 probably wouldn't do much better but my thought for trying one is to remove that silly flat line because I don't particularly like disabling cashing and queuing as this theoretically is supposed to be a benefit.

The units I've spoken to ppl about that appear to be good for media use are the Areca and the LSI but for 500 bucks it better shave hours not seconds off. I would think Adaptec would be good but I haven't spoken with anyone that has one. I do know that Adaptec has good support.


----------



## USlatin

yea, you are right on... but my bottleneck it the CPU right now... the HDDs can currently handle more than a few 1080p streams... but the CPU can't keep up... well I am working on a 32-bit app so the software is actually using only 91% of my processor on previews (the important part... not the renders... those are not so important)... I am working with the DVCPRO-HD codec which is 100Mbit/s so working with a HDD that has a 134MByte/s average ensures me that I am not being held back by the drives... that's just what I want to know... I want to be certain... and I want to get a Q6600









Now I do notice a h-u-g-e benefit when transferring footage and backing up... I LOVE that I don't have to wait more than it takes me to brew some fine blue-berry tea (that S#$T TASTES GOOD!!)...

As to the small increase... I thing it must have been cause I had already basically topped out my drives... they bench at around 80MB/s solo... so together the absolute ceiling is around 160MB/s... I was quite close to that... now your speed daemons can do much better... and the higher you get the more the controller will play a role... so the tweaks will also be bigger...

kinda like getting headers on a neon or a mustang... I had a neon and I tweaked it... I got 5bhp here and there... then my friend would get headers and get like 20bhs more...

but hey dude.... I got the fastest 7200rpm RAID0 on OCN








and that's on the 680i baby!!! thanks for pushing me over CravingR1... I had a PM trash-talk thing going with him... hahahah BOOYA!


----------



## NCspecV81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *draxlondon*


Before you follow Robilar's suggestion, I did have that exact same problem and it happened when I updated to 1103 (using EZFlash though).

Turns out it was my RAM. I used one stick at a time in slot A0 and got it to come up, changed the mem. voltage to 2.1 but it still crapped out with both sticks. After swapping out the one stick, I realised one of them was bad.

I'm waiting on the RMA from OCZ (which has so far taken nearly 2 weeks







)

Good luck



well - i dont really seeing it being the ram as it was working for a few hours before i updated and I decided to update and on the reboot it didnt work. I'm about positive its update related. Asus However is sending me another board - so now I'll have 2 of these. Oh well.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mhw100*


This is a known problem on the 680i platform to crap out at ~120mbs. There is an article on it in Anandtech.

Ther workaround is to deselect the write caching and command queuing for both channels of the raid controller in the device manager.


I don't see that option anywhere in the Device Manager when I right click and select "Properties" on any of the RAID devices listed.

The device manager lists 4 things under "SCSI and RAID controllers". 3 of them say "NVIDIA nForce 590/570/550 Serial ATA Controller" and the 4th one says "NVIDIA nForce(tm) RAID Class Controller".

Why does it not say 680, by the way?


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stargate125645*


I don't see that option anywhere in the Device Manager when I right click and select "Properties" on any of the RAID devices listed.

The device manager lists 4 things under "SCSI and RAID controllers". 3 of them say "NVIDIA nForce 590/570/550 Serial ATA Controller" and the 4th one says "NVIDIA nForce(tm) RAID Class Controller".

Why does it not say 680, by the way?


Right click on the first controller you see in the list and choose properties. You will then see 2 channels. Under EACH channel deselect the aforementioned options.

I read somewhere why it says 590 etc and it's not a problem. This is what is should read...I can't remember the reason though but I think it is something to do with the bridge being a 590 even thought the platform is a 680.


----------



## USlatin

I just got the confirmation from Chozart... I rul3z the RAID0 7200 world!!!









P.S.: And this was my reason for getting this board..









P.S. #2: Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!

P.S. #3: Am I like... L337 or somethings?

P.S. #4: Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee some more!!!!!


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mhw100*


Right click on the first controller you see in the list and choose properties. You will then see 2 channels. Under EACH channel deselect the aforementioned options.

I read somewhere why it says 590 etc and it's not a problem. This is what is should read...I can't remember the reason though but I think it is something to do with the bridge being a 590 even thought the platform is a 680.


The first item listed in that category (see my previous post) has the channels ghosted out. The second and third allow me to change it, but the fourth has them ghosted out again. Should I deselect write caching and command queueing on both?

Update: I tried it with just disabling those options on the first one, which lowered my transfer rates down to 110 MB/s. I then tried disabling it on both items listed under "SCSI and RAID controllers" that allows me to change this and my transfer rates dropped even further, down to 105 MB/s. Not exactly what I would call a fix...









Update 2: I think I figured out why I have two controllers listed that allow me to change the settings. I also think you meant to say "read caching" should be disabled since that is what HDTach measures. I did that, and my transfer rates are now 164 MB/s!


----------



## USlatin

I unchecked these two on the first two items under "SCSI and RAID controllers", then I got +2MB/s


----------



## mica3speedy

alright I just did a very mild overclock. I increased the fsb qdr from 1066 to 1080 (270 fsb). I also set vtt to 1.55v. I left the vcore at auto, and have the cpu/memory unlinked and have the ram set to 800. Cpu-z says the ram is at 392.7 mhz, down from 800 stock. The fsb:dram is 11:16. If I have the dram anywhere in the range of 800-809 in the bios it lists it at being 785 actual, and once I hit 810 it lists it at being 810 actual. Any idea why this happens?


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I unchecked these two on the first two items under "SCSI and RAID controllers", then I got +2MB/s


You will find that you only have to disable read and write caching.
The command queuing will only reduce your speed by a few MB\\s

& WOW
You really go the 7200's going.....Nice!


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


alright I just did a very mild overclock. I increased the fsb qdr from 1066 to 1080 (270 fsb). I also set vtt to 1.55v. I left the vcore at auto, and have the cpu/memory unlinked and have the ram set to 800. Cpu-z says the ram is at 392.7 mhz, down from 800 stock. The fsb:dram is 11:16. If I have the dram anywhere in the range of 800-809 in the bios it lists it at being 785 actual, and once I hit 810 it lists it at being 810 actual. Any idea why this happens?


You may set the ram @ 800 but the MB still runs off dividers 2:3, 4:5, 5:6 and so on.
eg/ 270fsb / 11 = 24.5454
24.5454 x 16 = 392.7272
so when your ram @ 810 that is where the next divider comes in.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *charger265*


You will find that you only have to disable read and write caching.
The command queuing will only reduce your speed by a few MB\\s

& WOW
You really go the 7200's going.....Nice!


There are 5 drives in RAID-0. What did you expect?


----------



## mica3speedy

Thanks Charger625 for the info







. Would it be better to have my ram run at the slower speed or the higher speed?


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stargate125645*


There are 5 drives in RAID-0. What did you expect?


OoPPS wasn't paying attention thought it was only 2


----------



## charger265

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
Thanks Charger625 for the info







. Would it be better to have my ram run at the slower speed or the higher speed?

If you are only going to stay at 270FSB I would run the 2:3 divider = Memory @ 810


----------



## SA3L

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
First, I would recommend going to the 1103 bios. It is an improvement over the 1002. Second, 3.4 is a very solid oc for an E6420 but may be its ceiling depending on the stepping of the chip. All cpu's are not created equal and some overclock better than others. You may have to upp vcore to closer to 1.5 (watch your temps though)

is the 1103-bios better for overclocking? And isn't 1,5 a very high voltage for 3,4ghz:S


----------



## NCspecV81

im scared of 1103 now! =o(


----------



## charger265

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NCspecV81* 
im scared of 1103 now! =o(

No need to be scared. Just don't use asus updater.....
Use ezflash in bios and usb as pointed out by robilar many times.


----------



## drmartin48106

Here is a stupid question...

Other than a probe, how can one get the temps on the NB & SB?

I'm running stock cooling on them (yes Robilar I know its a no-no but I some time before I can purchase after market coolers) and want to get some baseline readings. I have only set the basics (such as mem timing -via mfg specs) and do want to do a little OC (~10%) prior getting some decent cooling.

Thanks,
D


----------



## mhw100

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stargate125645* 
The first item listed in that category (see my previous post) has the channels ghosted out. The second and third allow me to change it, but the fourth has them ghosted out again. Should I deselect write caching and command queueing on both?

Update: I tried it with just disabling those options on the first one, which lowered my transfer rates down to 110 MB/s. I then tried disabling it on both items listed under "SCSI and RAID controllers" that allows me to change this and my transfer rates dropped even further, down to 105 MB/s. Not exactly what I would call a fix...









Update 2: I think I figured out why I have two controllers listed that allow me to change the settings. I also think you meant to say "read caching" should be disabled since that is what HDTach measures. I did that, and my transfer rates are now 164 MB/s!









Sorry about that - I did mean READ. Glad you figured it out though and have attained a better bench. It seems to have helped every one I know that has raptors but I don't know about other drives.


----------



## mhw100

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
I unchecked these two on the first two items under "SCSI and RAID controllers", then I got +2MB/s

Sorry for the error USlatin. I was going to fast. As Stargate found out through trial and error I meant to have said Read not Write caching. Try it now. I don't know anyone with raptors it hasn't helped but I don't know about other drives.


----------



## charger265

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mhw100* 
Sorry for the error USlatin. I was going to fast. As Stargate found out through trial and error I meant to have said Read not Write caching. Try it now. I don't know anyone with raptors it hasn't helped but I don't know about other drives.

You will have to disable both read and write to get full bandwidth both ways.
You also do not have to disable command queuing. (With raptors)


----------



## mhw100

Quote:


Originally Posted by *charger265* 
You will have to disable both read and write to get full bandwidth both ways.
You also do not have to disable command queuing. (With raptors)

I didn't see a difference on the write as I recall on HD Tach or on any other non-hd benches. The queuing is negligible - just a few mbs as I recall.

As I said in an earlier post though, I still don't know if it is a good idea to disable any of them since in theory they are meant to be beneficial. Again, my understanding is this synthetic bench bears little relation to what is evidenced when testing real world apps so I have my doubts that they should be turned off as it may be a hinderance rather than a benefit. I personally don't have a big r/w requirement so I've left them turned off...but that's just me.


----------



## USlatin

ok... I am turning both Read and Write off... turning Command Queuing back on to bench and then I 'll come back to update and discuss the real-world dangers of doing so... after all I want safety above speed... 100MB/s is plenty...

BTW: That is *only two 7200rpm drives*... yup... 2 HDDs on RAID0... the four 7200rpm HDD RAID0 record is higher


----------



## USlatin

Even higher... *137.8MB/s*


----------



## USlatin

Even higher... 138.3MB/s with all three options off... Read caching, Write Caching and Command Queuing... but only on channel ONE... ?!?

with all off on both channels I got 137.8... *so it seems 138.3MB/s is the record*


----------



## USlatin

with both channels with Write OFF, Read OFF and Queuing ON... I get 137.5 while keeping my burst at almost 400MB/s.. which seems to be a better place to be, with a significantly higher burst and a hair less average than with queuing off...

the second picture is the current setting for my slower RAID0... weird that it is so slow given that they are identical setups in every way


----------



## mhw100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Even higher... 138.3MB/s with all three options off... Read caching, Write Caching and Command Queuing... but only on channel ONE... ?!?

with all off on both channels I got 137.8... *so it seems 138.3MB/s is the record*


138 seems like a terrific result for those 2 drives. I think the highest I saw on my 150 raptors was ~160 which is about as high as I've seen from other users not on a ICH8R with the same raps. Congrats.


----------



## USlatin

thanks... now I hold that record and the highest GTS memory OC









I've been telling people all along to get these HDDs as opposed to raptors... think about it... I have 600GB and they are only $80 a piece!
then again Raptors truly are faster... but I still get caps before people even load into the map, yesterday I even got TWO!!!


----------



## charger265

I just started a new thread about the Raid problem with this board Link
Just to stop the clutter in this thread and to get it out in the open for everyone to help.


----------



## abe_joker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Bear in mind that this is near maxed out vcore. I would recommend starting at 1.35 and working upwards based on temps.


what impact does the Vcore has? what if turning on the system for first time i put Vcore at 1.5, FSB at 400mhz and
NB Voltage - 1.40
SB Voltage - 1.50
and CPU VTT voltage in 1.55

what would happen ???


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *abe_joker* 
what impact does the Vcore has? what if turning on the system for first time i put Vcore at 1.5, FSB at 400mhz and
NB Voltage - 1.40
SB Voltage - 1.50
and CPU VTT voltage in 1.55

what would happen ???









Vcore is for the cpu volts,and give the volts you need for xxxx speed.Maybe no boot.You need to work in steps.


----------



## abe_joker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Maybe no boot.You need to work in steps.


lol..that's why i let my friend OC mine...i dont have patience for that...


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *abe_joker*


lol..that's why i let my friend OC mine...i dont have patience for that...


But you want learn.Just in case something happen.Hola Santo Domingo,como esta el manguuuuuuuuuuuuuu.


----------



## abe_joker

:O ! how you know spanish?!


----------



## stargate125645

Do you have to have RAM in the blue DIMMs before putting any in the white ones on this board?

Also, how do you enter the BIOS if it won't POST with your RAM? I've tried resetting the CMOS but to no avail.


----------



## USlatin

one of the coolers arrived today, so before I get the rest and I break it apart I took a pic of my rigged SB and NB cooling









I love riggin stuff but the NB is a wild beast on this board... it simply didn't do it










http://www.overclock.net/gallery/data/500/SB_cooler.jpg


----------



## alexisd

You goin to use the noctua for the nb?


----------



## USlatin

I am thinking about it... but I can't fit the Spirit on the SB which I had already ordered... so I might have to use it for the SB... I thought it would be a lot bigger...

I thing I would like the Noctua on the NB with a 120mm fan blowing through it


----------



## shifty22123

Hi, I have a question...Since I started up my new mobo and cpu for the first time yesterday I constantly had some problems! First thing first...when you set your ram and fsb speeds...must it me Linked or can you just set it to unlinked and just keep it on 800mhz which is stock for me. Also...I get random restarts when just at idle...any advise for me?


----------



## alexisd

Set the memory unliked and set 800 mhz,or more if you want.And work in the cpu.Random restart sound like memory,you need set the rigth volts for your memory.


----------



## shifty22123

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Set the memory unliked and set 800 mhz,or more if you want.And work in the cpu.Random restart sound like memory,you need set the rigth volts for your memory.

My ram is set to 2.25v...do think it's my ram...Will memtest show any errors?


----------



## alexisd

And 2.25 is good.I don't think so,and what timmings you have now?


----------



## shifty22123

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
And 2.25 is good.I don't think so,and what timmings you have now?

Stock is 4-4-3-5 and I'm running at 5-5-5-12 atm


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shifty22123* 
Stock is 4-4-3-5 and I'm running at 5-5-5-12 atm

I don't see any problems.You try orthos allready? 5 5 5 12 @ what mhz?


----------



## shifty22123

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
I don't see any problems.You try orthos allready? 5 5 5 12 @ what mhz?

I just ran memtest for a couple of mins and it did detect some errors! Don't know why though

Edit: ran the test at 3ghz...lowered the speed to 2.6ghz....Maybe my chip isn't a good overclocker but it's supposed to be


----------



## alexisd

You use the 1103 bios?This bios fix some ram issues.You follow the guide settings for your oc.


----------



## shifty22123

did everything as recommended! I'm running 1103 etc....I just ran memtest at 2.6ghz for 10 mins and seems like it doesn't get any errors and it's with the same settings that I tested at 3ghz


----------



## alexisd

You can post all the settings that you are using now?


----------



## M3DS

lo all,
have just installed 2 more memory sticks in pc. I have restarted the O'Clocking process, all i have been upping is the FSB. I am at 1300Mhz, but i have noticed my memory does not show as 800mhz it has dropped to say 797mhz. I have it set to unlinked and even tried to redo memory to 800mhz but still shows as 797mhz.
As i have said only setting i have upped is the FSB, i have disabled all setting as per guide, have got all memory timing and volts to auto [except the voltage for memory is at 2.1]

reason?


----------



## alexisd

Set your memory @ 850.


----------



## M3DS

strange now it has restarted on the 1300Mhz, its back to 800MhZ


----------



## M3DS

could someone advise me on timings for my memory, i have tried the one in the guide and they worked ok, i was looking at some 1T to try.

*Ballistix 4GB (4x1GB) DDR2 PC2-8500C5 1066MHz Dual*


----------



## USlatin

Hey Alex and everyone else... I have been given a second chance by destiny to pick my NB and SB cooling combo...

*What is the absolute best air NB cooling for me (I have a TT on the CPU)*
The Spirit II order was cancelled cause they tok to long to ship it









While I know the Spirit kicks but I would like it if you guys took this into consideration:

_ I would love to get the BEST air cooling for my NB possible
_ I want to put something on my SB
_ I allready got a Noctua
_ The Noctua looks like it might fit on my SB

with that said... I wa wondering if a lapped Noctua on the NB with a big fan would be better than the Spirit... IF SO

Because I have an an X-Fi and 8800 on the top slot and waht to keep them in those slots, I could get a Jing Ting like Alex for my SB and that would be more than enough...


----------



## mica3speedy

got my rig overclocked to 3ghz







. I have the VTT at 1.55v and have the vcore at auto currently. The ram is set to 800mhz. I was wondering if I should leave the vcore at auto, or change it? At idle my core temps are 51, and 52. Running Orthos for a few hours the load temps were both 62.


----------



## CrazyJoe

M3DS - I see that you are running 4 sticks of ram ... I take it that you are running linux, Vista, or 64bit Xp ?

I'd love to get 4 gigs working on mine, but I havn't seen anyone able to get it working on this board without the aforementioned OS's.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CrazyJoe* 
M3DS - I see that you are running 4 sticks of ram ... I take it that you are running linux, Vista, or 64bit Xp ?

I'd love to get 4 gigs working on mine, but I havn't seen anyone able to get it working on this board without the aforementioned OS's.

I got 4Gigs working, but what you mean is that XP-32 will only see 3.326 GB... Just go Vista, or hold off till then... I opnly got them cause I am going to stick to these for a long time and I was worried they would change them

Hey Alex, you didn't tell me what you thought about the Noctua on the NB with a 120mm... and should I just keep stock cooling on the SB for now till I get the Quad? what do you think?


----------



## shifty22123

does anyone know if pci-e frequency have any stability affect?


----------



## USlatin

there was talk about the usual 101 having a bit of a possitive effect but the guys here say not for our board and they all have them set to 100... I had them at 101 then 102 but recently OC from scratch and go the same results with 100... so just leave them at 100... which should be default.... but if they are not at 100 then make sure and set them to it


----------



## stargate125645

Can anyone help me out with this?
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...am-issues.html


----------



## Robilar

Stargate, I already read through your thread and I'm puzzled as well. I do know that ram that is not correctly inserted into ram slots can become damaged


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Stargate, I already read through your thread and I'm puzzled as well. I do know that ram that is not correctly inserted into ram slots can become damaged

Well I will try my roommate's RAM when I get off work. If it doesn't work, I will probably RMA the motherboard and buy the new RAM shortly thereafter.


----------



## USlatin

good idea stargate


----------



## draxlondon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
with that said... I wa wondering if a lapped Noctua on the NB with a big fan would be better than the Spirit... IF SO

You're talking about the NC-U6 right?

I have one and briefly fitted it to my NB but removed it to RMA a duff mobo. I've got a Zalman on the CPU and if I fit the NC-U6 it actually touches the Zalman's fins.

First off, does it matter if they touch? I'm guessing they're both in no electrical contact with anything so it shouldn't be a problem.

Second, where are you talking about fitting a fan? I know you're running a different CPU cooler but is there room in there? Or are am I being stoopid and you're talking about a case-side mounted fan or something?

Thanks,


----------



## mica3speedy

Does anybody know if the Zalman CNPS9700 will fit on this board? It's dimensions are 90(l)x124(w)x142(h).


----------



## isprog

Well I finally managed to get all my after market cooling - selection in NZ was [email protected], so I had to buy in Aussie and then arrange for a friend to ship to me.

E660 CPU - Noctua NH-U12F with 120mm
NB - Noctua NC-U6
SB - Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II
MOSFETS: Bank 1 - Thermalright HR-09U (modified - cut down)
MOSFETS: Bank 2 - Thermalright HR-09S (modified - cut down)

Seems to look good but have had no chance to overclock yet. Just got the RAM unlinked at6 4-4-4-8 1T so far. Hopefully this weekend will see me start to overclock in earnest.

From pic's you can see that the NB Cooler is about 3mm from the fan of the cpu cooler NH-U12F. The NH-U12F sucks air through so will hopefully pull air through the NC-U6 as well.

I have a 120mm Noctua NF-S12-800 rear case exhaust fan as well as a 120mm CM832 case fan pulling air in over the 3 SATA 320MB HDD (2 in RAID0) and another 120mm Noctua NF-S12-800 fan in the top of the case sucking air into the case.

In the end, regards the soundcard, I went with the Bluegears B-Enspirer.
QUESTION:







Anyone had problems uninstalling the SoundMax HDA driver ? I keep getting an error on boot up regards the SoundMax driver and also when I try to uninstall it. I have tried bnoth with the HDA enabled and disabled in the BIOS. I didn't uninstall the SoundMax driver before installing the Bluegears B-Enspirer so will try this on the weekend.

Thanks


----------



## alexisd

Nice set up and pics.No problems here with sound drivers.I just disable in bios and go.


----------



## USlatin

yea isprog... very nice setup!
I just finished getting my Noctua in... I couldn't wait for the SB cooling so I kept the stock cooling... I really wanted to get those mosfet coolers but they seemed pricy and wasn't sure if they'd fit... now I regret not getting them

I also lapped my Tunic and the Noctua... but for some strange reason my temps seem to have gone up!









I know AS is not baked in, but what about the lapping and the fact that I took a bunch of fuzzies out of the TT?

I was ideling at 39-43 and now I am at 44-46... what's the AS5 bake in drop again? is it a bit less than 5C?


----------



## sparkison

isprog, nice setup mate








Should get some pretty good cooling from that setup from the looks of it








And I'll be getting a new Soundcard soon so I will let you know if I have any problems uninstalling the asus HD audio drivers, hopefully not...

And USlatin:

Quote:



3) Break-In Period
Due to the unique shape and sizes of the particles in Arctic Silver 5 conductive matrix, it will take a up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity. (This period will be longer in a system without a fan on the heatsink or with a low speed fan on the heatsink.) On systems measuring actual internal core temperatures via the CPU's internal diode, the measured temperature will often drop 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period. This break-in will occur during the normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time and the interface is allowed to cool to room temperature. Once the break-in is complete, the computer can be left on if desired.


----------



## USlatin

cool... thank you for the quote... I never thought about the need to turn off the computer to let the AS5 cool off... and it is nice to know they say it is from 2 - 5 C

I am hitting 60C with Orthos... i don't like it one bit... it's been a long time since I got such high temps...

I guess given that my Tuniq is now facing upwads it has less of a low pressure aide... the rear fan in my case was closer to the exhaust of the TT and it had about the same CMF but in a smaller more concentrated area... the 200mm fan on the top isn't as helpfull...maybe I should change the 200mm for a faster one

EDIT: I just did the finger test....







I wish I had a probe but I used to feel the NB with my figer every so often to see how hot it was... especially when I was having instability issues... I couldn't keep my finger on it... it would burn the crap out of me after 2-3 seconds... GREAT NEWS: I can keep my finger on that sucker all day







so by my guess-timation it must be at about 50-60C about as hot as the CPU... anyone know where to get a cheap temp-probe? (BTW I transplanted the 40mm fan I had rigged on the stock heatsink over to the Noctua...)


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


Does anybody know if the Zalman CNPS9700 will fit on this board? It's dimensions are 90(l)x124(w)x142(h).


Yes that was the first cooler I had on it.


----------



## USlatin

here is a pic... I'll take better ones when Michelle wakes up

edit: I think I might switch the fan for a 50mm (15 or 10mm thick) fan with higher CMF... they have some 17CMF ones that are 15mm... I bet that little 40mm fan I have on it now is a 7-8CMF

edit:
BTW I am running Orthos (2hs and counting) with [email protected] 1000MHz... gonna try to go up to 1100MHz later... which I had previously MemTested at said speed... but I am still to try and see if 1T at 950MHz will stick now that I have the NB cooling on...


----------



## Robilar

BTW, this cooler should fit on the southbridge

Vantec Iceberq

Its made for vga cards but the pin outs should match to the sb pins. Seeing as its copper and has a high rpm fan, it should work fine for the sb (but not sufficient for the nb).

The neat thing is that its low profile and will likely fit under a sound card (Thus resolving one of the issues we have had with this board and longer x-fi cards).

It should work similar to the fan on the DFI board (pic attached)

I'm going to pick one up tomorrow and give it a try.

$15 is not a bad deal if it works.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
BTW, this cooler should fit on the southbridge

Vantec Iceberq

Its made for vga cards but the pin outs should match to the sb pins. Seeing as its copper and has a high rpm fan, it should work fine for the sb (but not sufficient for the nb).

The neat thing is that its low profile and will likely fit under a sound card (Thus resolving one of the issues we have had with this board and longer x-fi cards).

It should work similar to the fan on the DFI board (pic attached)

I'm going to pick one up tomorrow and give it a try.

$15 is not a bad deal if it works.

It looks like it has an undersized contact surface.


----------



## mhw100

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
BTW, this cooler should fit on the southbridge

Vantec Iceberq

Its made for vga cards but the pin outs should match to the sb pins. Seeing as its copper and has a high rpm fan, it should work fine for the sb (but not sufficient for the nb).

The neat thing is that its low profile and will likely fit under a sound card (Thus resolving one of the issues we have had with this board and longer x-fi cards).

It should work similar to the fan on the DFI board (pic attached)

I'm going to pick one up tomorrow and give it a try.

$15 is not a bad deal if it works.

This will fit - I bought this and the Evercool you can see in my pics in the Gallery. The gpu covers it fine so I would assume a audio would too. I left the evercool on because it has a nice little led on it but the Antec is just as good in quality from what I could see. I think it might be the same size or slightly bigger than the one evga sells for coverage of the sb on their boards.


----------



## Dark Wanderer

Hi All!

This is my first post yay! I just bought a E6600 and a P5N32-E SLI So I think i'm in the right place for all my questions! I'll post my config to begin so it will be easier for you to answer (I think).

So

E6600
P5N32-E SLI
OCZ Reaper Hpc Edition PC2-8500 2GB 2X1GB DDR2-1066 CL5-5-5-15
Silverstone Strider ST75F 750W
EVGA E-GEFORCE 8800GTS 500MHZ 640MB
Vista Home Premium 64

For the cooling part, I choosed the WC way:
D-TEK Customs Fuzion CPU Water Block
D-TEK Customs Fuzion GFX GPU Water
D-TEK Customs DB-1 12V Micro Silent Water Cooling Pump
Thermochill Pa 120.3 Triple 120MM Fan Water Cooling Radiator
3* Noctua NF-S12-800 120MM

And in the "waiting to be in stock list"
Danger Den DD-680I Nforce 680I Chipset Water Block
Alphacool ASUS Heattrap Mosfet Cooler

So here are my questions:

I saw some of your O/C results and they are amazing! I also saw that most of them are AC setup, so will I be able to achieve higher results with my WC setup?

It will also be my first experience in O/C. Is it best to O/C the cpu before the gpu or it doesn't matters?

I will surely have a tons of questions when the time of O/C will be arrived!

PS: Please forgive my english because i'm not english


----------



## Robilar

P5N32-SLI

or the P5N32-E SLI?

They are very different boards.


----------



## Dark Wanderer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
P5N32-SLI

or the P5N32-E SLI?

They are very different boards.

Woops... My error... it is a P5N32-E SLI


----------



## NCspecV81

got my new board today from zzf. works just fine with the 1103 bios - yet I'm still getting the same fsb walls. probably is my NB.


----------



## mica3speedy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Yes that was the first cooler I had on it.

wasn't sure if that was it or the 9500. How did it due compared to the stock hsf?


----------



## sparkison

Welcome to OC.net Dark and congrats on the new computer








I think you will be very happy with that setup, be sure to ask any questions and have fun on the OC!









P.S. To answer your question: I would OC the CPU first; doesn't really matter which one you do first, GPU or CPU but, if it was me I'd do the CPU/MB/MEM first then do the GFX once you get the rest of the comp solid


----------



## Dark Wanderer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sparkison*


Welcome to Overclock.net Dark and congrats on the new computer








I think you will be very happy with that setup, be sure to ask any questions and have fun on the OC!









P.S. To answer your question: I would OC the CPU first; doesn't really matter which one you do first, GPU or CPU but, if it was me I'd do the CPU/MB/MEM first then do the GFX once you get the rest of the comp solid










Thanks a lot for welcoming me Spark!

I just read a thing on TH and it bothers me a little bit, I don't know if someone is able to explain it to me?

"Doom 3 shows a completely different picture for performance. While 3.66 GHz was the fastest CPU speed, the frequency was of the bus was at 281.75 MHz (281.75 x 4 = 1227) and the multiplier at 13x. The 3.55 GHz was comprised of a 443 MHz bus (443 x 4 = 1772) and an 8x multiplier. Here we can see that the higher FSB frequency and lower multiplier wins, even though the overall clock speed of the CPU is faster by 110 MHz. At the 3.55 GHz settings the game falls in line with the overclock on the entire system" 
http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/02/...ng/page11.html

Why?


----------



## USlatin

Robilar, that might be just what I'll do... I got an EVERCOOL for my Gigabyte DS3 North Bridge and it was quite amazing for it's cost... That is where I gut off the fan that now is helping my Noctua... too bad I didn't buy a high rpm fan instead... I'd still have it for the SB and I am thinking about getting a bigger fan for the noctua
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...MP=OTC-Froogle

Mhw100, never seen your gallery... the three cards look rad... can you please explain how you did your mosfet cooling? I have several of those copper RAM sinks I bought a set and I also have eight of the Swiftechs everyone uses, but I 'd like to get something bigger on them too... can you post an angled view for detail and explain please
You have the Evercool on your SB... perfect! (Bigger pic on his Gallery)









BTW, Mhw100, you should activate the profile icon on your name... go to profile options I think (the little camera icon)


----------



## draxlondon

I'd like to thank everyone on the thread (particularly Robilar)









A couple of days ago I decided OCZ were taking way too long to send me back my RMAd RAM so I got another 2GB and started up (I'll have 4GB if they ever send my RAM back...).

Without any effort whatsoever I've got my 2.4 E6600 running at 3.2 (1.4v vCore) and my RAM at 4-4-4-8-1T. That added nearly 3000 3dMarks to my score from stock. I haven't even looked at overclocking my GTX yet









I'll probably try and go a little higher but my CPU's currently at 60C loaded and I don't really want my fans going any faster (and therefore noisier). Saying that, I'll give the thermal paste some time to bake in.

If I up the FSB, but not the volts, does the CPU/NB stay at the same temp.?


----------



## M3DS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CrazyJoe*


M3DS - I see that you are running 4 sticks of ram ... I take it that you are running linux, Vista, or 64bit Xp ?

I'd love to get 4 gigs working on mine, but I havn't seen anyone able to get it working on this board without the aforementioned OS's.



*Vista32bit & 64bit Xp on a dual boot*


----------



## NCspecV81

http://www.dfi.com.tw/Upload/Driver/680_SG.EXE

here is smartguardian for 680i - i tried it on my board and some of it seems off however it has a chipset temp? is that our NB temp?


----------



## sparkison

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dark Wanderer* 
Thanks a lot for welcoming me Spark!

I just read a thing on TH and it bothers me a little bit, I don't know if someone is able to explain it to me?

"Doom 3 shows a completely different picture for performance. While 3.66 GHz was the fastest CPU speed, the frequency was of the bus was at 281.75 MHz (281.75 x 4 = 1227) and the multiplier at 13x. The 3.55 GHz was comprised of a 443 MHz bus (443 x 4 = 1772) and an 8x multiplier. Here we can see that the higher FSB frequency and lower multiplier wins, even though the overall clock speed of the CPU is faster by 110 MHz. At the 3.55 GHz settings the game falls in line with the overclock on the entire system"
http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/02/...ng/page11.html

Why?

Sometimes a higher FSB with a lower multi will net you better performance in benchmarks but, these boards and processors usually do better with the highest multi selected (9) and then see how high you can get your FSB with that, should be able to get 350-400 easy, if you can get higher, great!








Only testing will tell; you'll have to run benchmarks to tell which way is faster. In my case, I got the exact same numbers in SuperPI with a fsb speed of 450 with a multi of 8 (to get a proc. speed of 3600mhz) as I did with a FSB of 400 with a multi of 9 (to get a proc. speed of 3600mhz). Usually you will have better sucess with a the higher multi and the lower FSB but, only testing will tell you for sure


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NCspecV81*


http://www.dfi.com.tw/Upload/Driver/680_SG.EXE

here is smartguardian for 680i - i tried it on my board and some of it seems off however it has a chipset temp? is that our NB temp?


Guy can you please check this out... hope it isn't something you already found....

Please let this be it!!!


----------



## Robilar

I'll look at it later today and match it with the thermal probe I use to see if its an accurate representation.


----------



## USlatin

Robilar rul3z and both of you have some incoming reppage (I hope







)


----------



## matthewrsx

Long time listener, first time caller









Had my setup for about a month and ready to do a little OC. First I'm trying to get some good baseline temp/voltage readings. I've been using CoreTemp and Speedfan, and recently installed Everest.

Highest core temps I've seen during Orthos runs is 53, so I'm fairly happy about that. But I'm trying to figure out my NB/SB temps. Speedfan's "Temp 2", the AI Booster console "System", and Everest "Motherboard" temp all read 41. Is this the NB, SB, or something else entirely? What is the best way to get the NB/SB temps? I don't plan on doing hardcore overvoltage, so I just need a generally decent reading.

(BTW, sorry if this has been posted already, but I've read through MOST of the thread...but with 180 pages I'm sure I probably missed something...)

Thanks and look forward to chatting with ya'll!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Robilar rul3z and both of you have some incoming reppage (I hope







)

Don't bother. tried the DFI software, most of the readings don't match anything and the chipset reading is the same sensor as the motherboard temperature sensor.


----------



## USlatin

CRAP!

how much for an ok probe?


----------



## Robilar

Tigerdirect has them for under $20


----------



## NCspecV81

Yes I would like a good probe as well as I'm suspecting my NB is a dirty culprit in my OC'n woes!


----------



## NCspecV81

Hmmm what are these 3 mysterious temps?????


----------



## NCspecV81

Well whatever is causing my issues is heat related. I threw a desk fan on the side and not only was I able to stabalize overclocks that originally were not postable. I was even able to post at 4.0ghz instead of being unpostable after 3.5ghz.


----------



## draxlondon

Can anyone else who uses Vista (32-bit) let me know if they can change voltages using nTune. I don't seem to be able to.

I was hoping to set up overclocking profiles so I can underclock and undervolt my PC overnight and overclock and overvolt it when gaming.


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *draxlondon*


Can anyone else who uses Vista (32-bit) let me know if they can change voltages using nTune. I don't seem to be able to.

I was hoping to set up overclocking profiles so I can underclock and undervolt my PC overnight and overclock and overvolt it when gaming.


Try not to use Ntune or any other OC'ing software

I would use the profiles in the bios. You can save 2 different settings in the bios and as many as you like to a file on your HD.

It will take a restart to set each OC or underclock but you will get the best results there.


----------



## M3DS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *draxlondon*


Can anyone else who uses Vista (32-bit) let me know if they can change voltages using nTune. I don't seem to be able to.

I was hoping to set up overclocking profiles so I can underclock and undervolt my PC overnight and overclock and overvolt it when gaming.


This Mobo lets you add profiles in the BIOS under tools menus. Just add two profiles. Then when you restart machine, in the bios pick the profile you want.


----------



## USlatin

Yea, defenitely only wrork from the BIOS and start using the Profile feature right now... very, very handy... and OC is supposed to be done 100% of the time from the BIOS unless you are talking about video cards.


----------



## USlatin

Hey guys, will these fit on out mosfets?

they are 14mm x 14mm x 14mm

I guess we'd need two sets of eight, one for each mosfet... they are $15 a set


----------



## USlatin

oh and about Quads on this board look at this from post 45 on...
I was asking about possible mods to make the FSB limitations a bit les... well, limiting
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...failure-5.html

Picture of the mod:
http://www.overclock.net/attachments...g?d=1183605465


----------



## draxlondon

Looking at all the systems at the bottom of people's posts, there seems to be a pretty good mix of CPU coolers.

I find my Zalman CNPS9700 really loud and was wondering if I'd be better going with a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme with a Nexus 120mm fan on it (Silent PC Review heavily recommend that fan).

I was also wondering though whether people have opinions on whether it's better to mount the Zalman (or Thermalright) with the fan blowing up (my case has a top mounted exhaust fan and a rear exhaust fan) to use convection, or mount it facing the rear so it pulls the cold air from the front intake of the case.


----------



## matthewrsx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NCspecV81*


Hmmm what are these 3 mysterious temps?????


I asked this a few posts back, but I'm also using Everest and I'm trying to figure out what the "Motherboard" temp in Everest is actually reading from.

My other temps are pretty good (24.5 ambient, 32/31 Core idle 52/51 Orthos), but the Motherboard temp hovers around 40-41 idle, which strikes me as high.

Any insight? Thanks.


----------



## M3DS

have question, i managed to O'C my pc to 3.5mhz, but when running orthos it died within 2 secs, got to 3 mins max. Now wierd thing is it passed 3dmark06, *** TBH


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *matthewrsx* 
I asked this a few posts back, but I'm also using Everest and I'm trying to figure out what the "Motherboard" temp in Everest is actually reading from.

My other temps are pretty good (24.5 ambient, 32/31 Core idle 52/51 Orthos), but the Motherboard temp hovers around 40-41 idle, which strikes me as high.

Any insight? Thanks.

I believe the motherboard temperature reads from the northbridge.


----------



## M3DS

Back again,

Heres my attempt at overclocking this MoBo, I think i done quite well, as it was done with only air, but let you guys be the judge. fist pic is showing the O'Clock of the cpu, any higher and i did not get good results on Orthos. crashed after one hour or on some after 3 secs









2nd pic is to show GPU clocks and also set Timings for memory to default as they where looser than that.



I am next going to add some arctic silver to the GPU to see if i can get temp down a bit.

any other tips guys?

Be Gentle it is my 1st proper O'Clock


----------



## alexisd

M3DS,For my 6700ES @ 3.5 stable try this.
1400x10 multy
v core 1.5 volts
1.2HT 1.40 volts
NB 1.45 volts
SB 1.5 volts
cpu vtt 1.55 volts.
That give you 3.5 stable for over 12 hrs.Oh and check all the rest of adjustments that,you need disable.In the first page of this guide.


----------



## M3DS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


M3DS,For my 6700ES @ 3.5 stable try this.
1400x10 multy
v core 1.5 volts
1.2HT 1.40 volts
NB 1.45 volts
SB 1.5 volts
cpu vtt 1.55 volts.
That give you 3.5 stable for over 12 hrs.Oh and check all the rest of adjustments that,you need disable.In the first page of this guide.


thanx for reply bud but i dont think it will work as i dont have north bridge cooler or the super CPU cooler you have but i will give it a go. I got to 3.5 before but orthos dies within 3 secs to 3 mins, i have disabled all setting and i even tried the volt settings on 1st page but it did not help. even tho i pasted the 3dmark06 test









Note: The thermal paste they use on the GPU, looks like the cards having a bath in it!!


----------



## alexisd

Try my settings they are 100% stable.I boot @ 3.8 with my 6700 for benches too.


----------



## M3DS

BTW what does it mean in your specs by "Lapped"


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M3DS*


BTW what does it mean in your specs by "Lapped"


Lapped mean,that i sanded the cpu heatsink and the tunic is lapped too.For better thermal contacs and temps.
Here is some examples.http://www.overclock.net/intel-air-c...-p4-540-a.html
And here=http://www.overclock.net/amd-air-coo...=lapping+tuniq


----------



## M3DS

at 3.5, volts changed. Orthos again dies in 4 secs









core temps idle at 40c was 36 before. Oh well tried


----------



## Robilar

Here is an informative thread about doing pencil mods on our board.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/....php?p=2054643

they have vdroop and vcore solutions here.

I'm planning to try


----------



## rsnt

I'm getting the board real soon! I was shocked to see that memory prices increased again (canadacomputers.com had some insane prices). Hey Rob, this isn't important but you might wanna update the links in the first post and remove whatever was there from bigfoot (really sad they've close)


----------



## Dark Wanderer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsnt* 
I'm getting the board real soon! I was shocked to see that memory prices increased again (canadacomputers.com had some insane prices). Hey Rob, this isn't important but you might wanna update the links in the first post and remove whatever was there from bigfoot (really sad they've close)









Why don't you take your stuff from ncix or directcanada? They always have better price!


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Here is an informative thread about doing pencil mods on our board.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/....php?p=2054643

they have vdroop and vcore solutions here.

I'm planning to try

I read over and looks good.Im planning go for it once have the time.Thank's [Robilar]And that need a rep+ for the find.The v droop to me sound good,for v core we have a lot more than you need for good OC.


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dark Wanderer* 
Why don't you take your stuff from ncix or directcanada? They always have better price!









Bigfoot was close to where I live that way I could've saved on shipping. But obviously now I don't have a choice.


----------



## USlatin

Hey Robilar... I am only going to do the Vdroop mod, but not the Vcore mod...

however I might do a hard mo to increase other voltages which allowed a user to get a 100% OC on an E6300 and 3.6 on a Q6600... however I would first need to get a guy with experience who can solder for me and make sure I gan get a second board if this one dies on me... are you interested in doing any mods like that one to your board?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsnt* 
I'm getting the board real soon! I was shocked to see that memory prices increased again (canadacomputers.com had some insane prices). Hey Rob, this isn't important but you might wanna update the links in the first post and remove whatever was there from bigfoot (really sad they've close)









Thanks. I actually posted in overclocker news a couple of weeks ago that they had closed. It was unfortunate as they were local for me as well (sort of I work downtown).

I'll update the first page, thanks


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Hey Robilar... I am only going to do the Vdroop mod, but not the Vcore mod...

however I might do a hard mo to increase other voltages which allowed a user to get a 100% OC on an E6300 and 3.6 on a Q6600... however I would first need to get a guy with experience who can solder for me and make sure I gan get a second board if this one dies on me... are you interested in doing any mods like that one to your board?


I actually am pretty good at soldering so I am going to have a go at it myself. I'm going to go with both because the results have been decent (having plenty of vcore is not the point, the vcore mod will let you run your overclock at less vcore as it won't drop off under load and therefore crash. That means less heat which means higher potential overclocks. The vdroop mod does not completely remove vdroop, it only lessens it. *You will need to do both* to get 0 vdroop)

The problem with the soldering mods is that if it cooks your board, they will know (as the capacitors will be burned and there is virtually no way to completely remove the solder after you kill the board. They have seen this type of thing before...







)

The good thing about the pencil mods is that they are relatively low risk, and are easy to reverse it case you have to rma the board.


----------



## charger265

I can confirm that both of the mods do work (pencil) I have just done them. Please everyone who wants to attempt this (use a multimeter) I found it hard to get everything right with the pencil mod. It is much easier with VR's. 
I also have done a Vmod on both 8800gts cards. Just clocked over the 16K 706/2200 no Artifacts max temp 60c on ek waterblocks. It now looks like I have to find a vdrop mod for the 8800's.


----------



## USlatin

I thought it didn't help... then off to RadioShack as soon as I can to get the meter... The hard mod is where the big payoff will come to play, so maybe after you successfully do your board I'll ship mine over to you for a little "service"







interested?

What sucks is that these pencil mods will only decrease temps during idle and will have no effect on OC'ing potential or load temps... however they might on the life of your components... right?

on a side note: I think my mosfets will end up looking funky, so as not to buy anything else I might put the copper Swiftechs on one side (one per) and the aluminum swftechs on the oder (also one per)

Charger, did you do the Memory pencil mod for your GTS? I don't think there is any other pencil mods for GTS's... and WOW you almost got LitlRatt and his dual GTX's on 06


----------



## Anubis_offline

Hello guy's,
Is there report of bios 1103 is unstable?
Apart of max fsb of "366" windows is unstable to Firefox and IE even the bios freeze.
This weekend read about 192 pages of info I can tell when I look into to mirror&#8230;..Asus P5N32-E Over clocking Guide staring back at me and even hunts me at night.
Is it wise to go back to better oc bios like 1102, the goals is 3.6 400x9 mem 1:1.
Al of voltage change you can think of I have don't it.
I am out of options ore have I hitting the max fsb, thx for the help.


----------



## Robilar

Lol. yes its gotten a bit out of hand. I've had lots of help build the guide though.

1103 has been rock stable since I loaded it a couple of weeks ago. There is no reason not to do so.

What vcore are you running?

With an E6600, even a poor stepping, you should be able to hit around 3.4 ghz.

Its best to stay at the 9x multi though as you will get faster benches and lower temps.

9x 400 FSB is ideal but may be a bit much for a zalman 9500 to handle ( I had the 9700 for awhile and it needed to be changed for better cooling)

Also, you should leave all memory settings on auto except for ram voltage (with your ram set it to 2.1V in the bios) and work on your cpu oc first (make sure to set to unlinked). Then you can go back and work on tightening the ram timings.


----------



## Anubis_offline

He Robilar,

Thx for the quick reply.

Vcore 1.53125v

1.2 HT 1.30v

Mem 2.1v

NB 1.4v

SB 1.5v

VTT 1.55v

To buy a better cooler then the Zalman 9500!!, no i am emotional attach to that nice shining thing.

Oc at 42%, 3.4 mem 4-4-4-8 T2, when i hit T1 blue screen all mem timings on auto.

8 x 400.....nothing mebie i have bad E6600


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Charger, did you do the Memory pencil mod for your GTS? I don't think there is any other pencil mods for GTS's... and WOW you almost got LitlRatt and his dual GTX's on 06


No I did the mod using VR's
16008 is the only run I have done & it was only @ 3.6. I think I can squeeze a few hundred more, maybe a thousand.

After about 12 hours of testing over the past few days I am not happy with the pencil mod on the MB.
It is unreliable.

Give me another week to strip then rebuild the system to do the MB Vmods and I will get back to you.


----------



## USlatin

Well I think I might actually consider doing hard mods to the MoBo but not to the Video Card... too expensive to replace for me right now.... but maybe in the future I will... I mean 16k+ is crazy power... But first I will SLI when I have $ to upgrade and that will get my third monitor running so "it is for work"


----------



## matthewrsx

I'm still slowly bumping up my FSB and so far good results. But I wanted to see what kind of bench increase I would get from going from 4-4-4-12-2T to 4-4-4-12-1T (@800). While the 1T will make it through 3d06, Orthos craps out after 2 minutes.

I'm using Patriot Extreme, which sounds like there aren't too many fans of here, but I've had good success with Patriot in the past. The manufacturers specs call for 2.2v, and that's what I've got it at. All other voltages are also at stock except VTT (1.55v). I'm wondering what else I can do to increase stability at 1T. Any suggestions?


----------



## USlatin

I don't know about 3D performance, but 1T is something you notice on everyday use and I get lower SuperPi's with 1T @ 950MHz than 2T @ 1100MHz


----------



## NCspecV81

i put some cooling over top of my NB and now I'm able to go from 3.4-5ghz stable to 3.7ghz stable. However, I do think there is more in it - i just need a better NB cooler w/ active cooling on it.


----------



## USlatin

sorry about the focus... but I am in pain from playing with those air ties, they were not easy to slip on, but they'll do till I break the whole thing down and get to do it with the board out...

The cooler is a Noctua which I tried lapping a bit, AS5, and the fan is a 16CMF 60mm which fits like a charm on the Noctua's grill... however some sort of pin will need to be devised out of paper clips instead... and I should get a new fan cause I stuck what I was using to pull the band over the cooler into the fan and a blade flew out, lol... I guess I am getting more like 14CMF now







Though I might go for a nicer one if I do switch it out

still no probe to test temps with but I could probably stick my tongue on the NB where as before it would burn my finger after 2-3 seconds...

as far as I can guess, being that almost nobody can posts actual temps, a well lapped Noctua with a nice 60mm fan might be the best air cooling available for us, and it even works with a the TT120 if you can mount the CPU cooler horizontally on your case (blowing upwards) like I did...


----------



## draxlondon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *draxlondon*


I was also wondering though whether people have opinions on whether it's better to mount the Zalman (or Thermalright) with the fan blowing up (my case has a top mounted exhaust fan and a rear exhaust fan) to use convection, or mount it facing the rear so it pulls the cold air from the front intake of the case.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


if you can mount the CPU cooler horizontally on your case (blowing upwards) like I did...


For those interested, it made a big difference to mount my Zalman blowing vertically. It pulls air over the Noctua on my NB which I can now easily touch (before it was burning hot) and the temperature controller now runs the CPU fan much slower (and therefore quieter).

I have a P182 case so there are case fans top and back but it does seem *much* more effective this way.


----------



## USlatin

well I got higher CPU temps with this mount but I think it was a bad AS application... I tried the little blob method for the first time but that noctua rocks in comparison to the stock cooling... even when I had the little 40mm fan on it...


----------



## draxlondon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
well I got higher CPU temps with this mount but I think it was a bad AS application... I tried the little blob method for the first time but that noctua rocks in comparison to the stock cooling... even when I had the little 40mm fan on it...

I've been using the stuff that came with my Zalman. They give it to you with a convenient nail varnish type brush that makes it really easy to get a perfect thin layer.

I know AS5 and lapping would probably give me a few of degrees back but I'm having a real problem getting my effort-o-meter to move when I think about pulling everything off and re-applying


----------



## Anubis_offline

I am little off now, must I go for the Noctua or the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II.
Can fry an egg now on mine NB, I suspect that's the reason I can not hit 400fsb.
Nice solution placing fan on the Noctua..








But placing Zalman vertical blowing slight hot air on mine 8800, I think not good idea.
Will go for option chipset cooler Anubis_2000


----------



## USlatin

I think the Spirit is prooven to be good since there are a good dozen postersincluding Robilar Alex and Cogno to name a few who used it with great success... unfortunatelly all I can say is that I think the Noctua looks like it should pull slightly better numbers... but there has been no posts at all from anyone with a Noctua and a temperature probe to proove either way...

regardless though you can't go wrong with either...

my vote: Noctua FTW!








the Noctua was evidently designed with a 60mm fan in mind... there are slots for clips (or hair ties







) and the 60mm slides righ into the groove... you might however be able to fir a 70mm if you can find one though it would be on the other side... 60mm should be just fine... if you want more air get a slightly thiker fan than the one I got which is only 10mm thick and in that category you might be able to get up to 25CFM maybe... ?

About the CPU cooler orientation... he means upwards... blowing up and through a blow hole on the top of your case... I have an Antec 900 which comes with a big fan on top... but you can easily cut a big 120mm hole and stick a Yate Loon for $3 at Jab Tech on it... great idea for cooling BTW, consider it if you are working on lowering CPU temps


----------



## USlatin

here is a slightly better pic... can't open the case cause I am rendering
but I think you can make out the way that the fan fits in the groove on the grill of the cooler... evidently made for 60mm fans to e used with it...


----------



## matthewrsx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


still no probe to test temps with but I could probably stick my tongue on the NB where as before it would burn my finger after 2-3 seconds...


So I guess the Motherboard temp in Everest is not the NB temp....what temp is it reporting then? Is it related to the NB temp at all or is it more of an ambient temp reading?


----------



## USlatin

I also qoue be interested in finding out where that temp is being measured at... I think I did notice it drop 1-3 degrees grom placing the fan on the NB Noctua.... so it must be close by


----------



## matthewrsx

I remember seeing a very tiny chip (?) near the center of the MB that was labeled something like "sensor". I'll try to get a pic tonight. If it is close enough to the NB, it might be a good indicator if you just need to know a relative value i.e. hotter or cooler.


----------



## Robilar

The motherboard temp is from a sensor mounted on the motherboard in between the ram and the cpu. I assume they rightly wanted to keep it away from the gpu area (my 8800gtx gives off quite a bit of heat).

There is no sensor on the nb or sb that I am aware of (and I've tried just about everything). The best thing to use is an electronic thermal probe.


----------



## Anubis_offline

Nice now i hit 9 x 400fsb 4-4-4-12 T1, just placed a cooler master blue ice nb cooler on the NB â‚¬4.83 ( $3.52)

You see i have to take mortgage Oc this mobo









Thx for al the help guys mine happy meter went up 50%


----------



## matthewrsx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
The motherboard temp is from a sensor mounted on the motherboard in between the ram and the cpu. I assume they rightly wanted to keep it away from the gpu area (my 8800gtx gives off quite a bit of heat).

There is no sensor on the nb or sb that I am aware of (and I've tried just about everything). The best thing to use is an electronic thermal probe.

Is it good for anything? I'm not planning on overclocking as high as some of the folks on here, so I'm not sure I need an _exact_ nb/sb temp. But would it be useful to tell in relative terms that temps at a certain OC setting are much hotter/cooler?

PS http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...d&Order=PRICED

Some of these controller panels have up to 4 integrated thermistors. A few are in the $30-45 range


----------



## Robilar

It does give you an idea of the ambient temps in the case (Sort of...)


----------



## USlatin

hahaha sort of ambient... cool... thanks Robilar...
that is also the one that appears as the first temp listed on Speed Fan too correct?


----------



## matthewrsx

Yep, same as Speedfan. So at least it's consistent...


----------



## USlatin

aha... so I guess I'll name it "Ambient... sorta"


----------



## rsnt

I can't believe I can't find a thermalright 120 extreme anywhere now, ncix ran out, and theres no one else that has it in stock







looks like I have to wait for ncix to get it back in stock (i hope).

Hey Rob, would you still recommend the OCZ PC8500 from canadacomputers or would you recommend something else from there since the prices dropped? Up to say $250 with tax but no more. I went to Tigerdirect at heartland center today but they didn't have the Vantec ICEBERQ, they have it in their markham store so I guess I'm going to order it from there. I'm getting the thermaltake spirit tomorrow along a silverstone F121.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsnt* 
I can't believe I can't find a thermalright 120 extreme anywhere now, ncix ran out, and theres no one else that has it in stock







looks like I have to wait for ncix to get it back in stock (i hope).

Hey Rob, would you still recommend the OCZ PC8500 from canadacomputers or would you recommend something else from there since the prices dropped? Up to say $250 with tax but no more. I went to Tigerdirect at heartland center today but they didn't have the Vantec ICEBERQ, they have it in their markham store so I guess I'm going to order it from there. I'm getting the thermaltake spirit tomorrow along a silverstone F121.

Nowhere in Canada, anyway. Have you checked Tank Guys? I'm pretty sure they will deliver to Canada.


----------



## rsnt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stargate125645*


Nowhere in Canada, anyway. Have you checked Tank Guys? I'm pretty sure they will deliver to Canada.


Well yeah if it comes down to ordering from the U.S then I might go with Tankguys, I do believe they have a lapped version of it that I might be very interested in.

EDIT: nm even Tankguys have it on back order.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsnt* 
I can't believe I can't find a thermalright 120 extreme anywhere now, ncix ran out, and theres no one else that has it in stock







looks like I have to wait for ncix to get it back in stock (i hope).

Hey Rob, would you still recommend the OCZ PC8500 from canadacomputers or would you recommend something else from there since the prices dropped? Up to say $250 with tax but no more. I went to Tigerdirect at heartland center today but they didn't have the Vantec ICEBERQ, they have it in their markham store so I guess I'm going to order it from there. I'm getting the thermaltake spirit tomorrow along a silverstone F121.

Some good choices. The OCZ 8500 has the distinction of being extremely compatible with this board. I'm sure almost all of the "SLI Ready" ram would be fine but this stuff is proven (there are several other members here with this board and ram combo as well at my recommendation).

You could also try infonec in Markham for the vantec iceberq. I believe they stock it as well.

http://www.infonec.com/site/main.php...detail&id=2680

Its too bad Bigfoot went under as thats where I got my extreme.


----------



## Robilar

The 1201 beta bios for this board was just released on the Asus FTP server.

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...2-E%20SLI/

I have downloaded it and will give it a try. No notes as yet as to what it changes but my understanding is that it provides updated support for 1333 Mhz processors and some further bios tweaks.


----------



## USlatin

whoa!!!! so Robilar... again, there is no way for increases on those voltages needed to OC Quads better via BIOS updates right? I just got a bit of hope









but I think I know it is quite hopeless kind of hope...


----------



## rsnt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Some good choices. The OCZ 8500 has the distinction of being extremely compatible with this board. I'm sure almost all of the "SLI Ready" ram would be fine but this stuff is proven (there are several other members here with this board and ram combo as well at my recommendation).

You could also try infonec in Markham for the vantec iceberq. I believe they stock it as well.

http://www.infonec.com/site/main.php...detail&id=2680

Its too bad Bigfoot went under as thats where I got my extreme.


Wait that's not the same one I saw you point out to a while back...

http://www.infonec.com/site/main.php...detail&id=9058

thats the one but either way would both work? (I kinda like the other one coz it has a blue feel to it







)

Regarding the memory, OCZ it is. I'm getting the board for sure next thursday from infonec, I might get the memory same day too. Right now I'm ordering the swiftec BGA ram sinks from NCIX.


----------



## Robilar

Either would work. The one you linked is better because its copper (I couldn't find it again when I searched) whereas the one I linked just prior is an aluminum copper hybrid. Either will work though.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
whoa!!!! so Robilar... again, there is no way for increases on those voltages needed to OC Quads better via BIOS updates right? I just got a bit of hope









but I think I know it is quite hopeless kind of hope...









No way to know as yet. I built a rig with a QX6700 for a friend. I'll ask him to update the bios and do some testing.


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Either would work. The one you linked is better because its copper (I couldn't find it again when I searched) whereas the one I linked just prior is an aluminum copper hybrid. Either will work though.

lol it's funny because when I was at tigerdirect's store at heartland center they have it and I asked them if it would work, they said NO! lol why do these people work there


----------



## Ninja_Boy

Should I get an Asus P5N32-E nForce 680i SLi Motherboard over an Asus P5K Deluxe/WiFi-AP Motherboard? I might go SLi with 9-Series cards. Espeically if SLi 2.0 comes out.









NiNja


----------



## Robilar

Depends on your time frame. The P5K Deluxe will give a higher FSB and considering that you have a locked CPU with the Q6600, the P35 chipset boards will be better. Mind you they don't support SLI.

If you have a QX6700 or 6800 with unlocked multi's FSB is not relevant as you can crank up the multi to compensate and then the 680i board is the better choice, assuming again you go SLI

The new X38 boards are "supposed" to have the benefits of the intel chipset for high FSB and SLI. Only time will tell.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsnt* 
lol it's funny because when I was at tigerdirect's store at heartland center they have it and I asked them if it would work, they said NO! lol why do these people work there









The fact that you mentioned Tigerdirect and uninformed salespeople in the same statement says it all.









The only issue you may have is lining up the mount holes correctly. The one you re-linked has long slots that can fit the screws in different positions which should accomodate the motherboard mount holes nicely.

I'm planning on picking one up as well to try on the SB as I'm planning on switching sound cards and picking up (Again!) a second 8800gtx.


----------



## rsnt

Btw Rob, canadacomputers has the P5N32-E and the eVGA 680i A1 for the same price, in your opinion, does the eVGA board have any advantages over the Asus or no?


----------



## Robilar

No! I've owned both (got the EVGA in November and the Asus in December).

The asus will hit higher FSB (EVGA tops out at about 470 and the Asus, I've had as high as 524 with 3 different chips).

Also, the EVGA is only 6 phase power capacitors and the asus is a full 8 phase.

Also, the evga has some obstructions off the back around the cpu area (they are capacitor terminators that cannot be damaged) that can prevent some backplates for aftermarket cooling to be blocked.

The EVGA is a decent board but the Asus beats it in all categories. As the same price its a pretty easy decision.

Oh, and before some genius pipes in the the "EVGA lifetime warranty" point, consider that the asus board has a 3 year warranty. Do you really think you will have the board for 3 years?


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
No! I've owned both (got the EVGA in November and the Asus in December).

The asus will hit higher FSB (EVGA tops out at about 470 and the Asus, I've had as high as 524 with 3 different chips).

Also, the EVGA is only 6 phase power capacitors and the asus is a full 8 phase.

Also, the evga has some obstructions off the back around the cpu area (they are capacitor terminators that cannot be damaged) that can prevent some backplates for aftermarket cooling to be blocked.

The EVGA is a decent board but the Asus beats it in all categories. As the same price its a pretty easy decision.

Oh, and before some genius pipes in the the "EVGA lifetime warranty" point, consider that the asus board has a 3 year warranty. Do you really think you will have the board for 3 years?

Thanks for clearing that out, because I was eyeing the board for a while, I already called infonec and reserved the Asus board anyway so I'm set


----------



## Robilar

What cpu are you going to run on it?


----------



## cognoscenti

I think I may have fried either my OCZ PC2-8500....the board or maybe the cpu?

I had a few random shutdowns just today where it would just tun off randomly.

Later on windows explorer crashed so I rebooted and now i just get half a bios screen where it gets down to listing the cpu etc and then it just sits there.


----------



## Robilar

You've been torturing your technology again haven't you!

I assume you cleared the cmos and attempted to go in and reset the bios to defaults?


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
What cpu are you going to run on it?

I'm not sure yet, I'm waiting for the new line to get in stuck in a couple of weeks and see how much are they going to be and then decide. Which one do you think would be better?


----------



## cognoscenti

Not yet I got caught up reading one of my celebrity gossip sites









Well the cpu has been reasonably strained I guess the board can hack it though.
My way of telling if the cpu is too hot is the smell test.
With decent voltage you can make these things idle at 49c...lol
I had the ram running at 2.25v I think and 4-4-4-8 1T.
I have some other RAM somewhere I can try in the morning.


----------



## babybear

i have my cpu dual core e 6600 2.4 at 3.2 and my ram at 900mhz cpuz says in 4:7 should i be 1:1 if so how do i get there i cant seem to push the fsb or the mem any more

my mem timings are 4-4-4-12 2t vol 2.2 crusial balistix 6400 800mhz 2x1gig as per crucials site but any sugestions welcome

voltages are

cpu 1.38
mem 2.2
ht1.25
nb 1.5
sb1.5
cpu vtt 1.55

i was hoping to get up to 3.4 and get my ram to 1000mhz

thanx for the help


----------



## Robilar

You will actually find that the ram runs faster at 800 mhz with 1T (most important) with tight timings. See if you can get the ram to 4-4-4-8 with 1T @ 800 Mhz. you will need to set the ram to unlinked to do so though.

To hit 3.4 you will need more vcore (maybe as much as 1.45) which may overwhelm your cpu cooler.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsnt*


I'm not sure yet, I'm waiting for the new line to get in stuck in a couple of weeks and see how much are they going to be and then decide. Which one do you think would be better?


I'm also waiting to see what the actual price drops look like. Once we see, I can make a recomendation based on your budget. Waiting on the cpu right now is the right thing though


----------



## Ninja_Boy

Robliar: Do you think I should find a second 7900GTX for SLi and pick up an Asus P5N32-E nForce 680i Motherboard? I will not be overclocking, I am just looking for a very stable and very feature-packed motherboard from a high-quality company.

NiNja


----------



## rsnt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


I'm also waiting to see what the actual price drops look like. Once we see, I can make a recomendation based on your budget. Waiting on the cpu right now is the right thing though










Actually it won't matter if prices dont exceed the $350 with tax, so I have all three CPUs as an option. The question is, which multi? The cheaper you go the lower the multi and I don't want to stress the board too much.


----------



## Robilar

With this board, the higher the multi the faster the benches. A chip I picked up for my daughters' computer is the E4400. Its only 800 Mhz but its dirt cheap and has a 10x multi. I threw it in my board for giggles and was able to run 10x 335 FSB without to much effort. I am certain I could have gone higher.

I suppose if I had to pick, I'd recommend the new E6850. Its default 3 Ghz speed and high multi is excellent for overclocking.


----------



## alexisd

Robilar,thank's for the 1201 ready to load.Tommorow,you think that this bios and the 6850 is goin to be a good combo?


----------



## Robilar

Absolutely. Anandtech has some monster overclocks with the E6750 and the EVGA 680i board. The 6850 is $50 more, has a higher multi and default clock speed is 3 ghz. There will be a lot of members closing in on 4 ghz pretty soon.

This bios is for the new cpus got confirmation from a friend at asus. There may even be other tweaks involved.


----------



## alexisd

Thank's,maybe once those chips hit the market we have a new bios up date too.


----------



## NCspecV81

wonder if this is better quad oc'ing as well?


----------



## alexisd

Loaded the 1201 bios and testing.So far no changes.


----------



## USlatin

Yea... Quads is what I'm crossing my fingers for, but Robilar wasn't so sure if that is going to be something a BIOS update will be able to accomplish...

Man!!! 4.0GHz on air? E6850 will kick arse!


----------



## rsnt

http://www.ca.buy.com/prod/Intel_Cor...204694858.html

dont know how realiable this is but looks like a good deal Rob.

and whoever was asking about the new Quads overclocking ability, look at this:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=151287


----------



## NCspecV81

oh.... my.... GAWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWD!!!!!!!!!!

Hmmm that sure IS a fast 32m SuperPI time! =o) maybe that was an 1m run? but 3.9ghz stable at 1.45v core! I'm scared to get my q6600 G0 stepping, I'm liable to take advantage of it while it's out of its socket!

*edit* AWWW $h1T I just ruined my KeyB1$T)GWVS)JI


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsnt*


http://www.ca.buy.com/prod/Intel_Cor...204694858.html

dont know how realiable this is but looks like a good deal Rob.

and whoever was asking about the new Quads overclocking ability, look at this:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=151287


That is a great price for us Canucks


----------



## rsnt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


That is a great price for us Canucks


Sure is, and I expect better prices as soon as more stores get it in stock.


----------



## USlatin

man I am still trying to figure out what my air OC would be like with and without this MoBo's FSB limitations... care to guesstimate Robilar?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 

I suppose if I had to pick, I'd recommend the new E6850. Its default 3 Ghz speed and high multi is excellent for overclocking.

Good call, this will be the new equiv of the 6600 in the peoples choice I reckon.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsnt*


http://www.ca.buy.com/prod/Intel_Cor...204694858.html
and whoever was asking about the new Quads overclocking ability, look at this:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=151287


why did they hide what gpu they were using on the 3dmark test? seems strange.


----------



## t4ct1c47

To be honest, I don't rate these new 1333FSB CPU's as being any different to their 1066FSB cousins. In my eyes there is no real difference between the E6600 and E6850. They both have the usual MMX, SSE, SSE2, SSE3, SSSE3 and EM64T. They're both dual core and they both have x9 multipliers.

Quote:



As a result, the FSB Wall has been pushed farther back and the overclocking results have improved significantly. For example, our overclocking experiments revealed that the new processors can work at 3.6-3.8GHz with traditional air-cooling onboard.

_Gavrichenkov, I., 24/06/2007, New Member In Core 2 Duo Processor Family:
Introducing CPUs with 1333MHz Bus;
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu..._12.html#sect0
Accessed: 13/07/2007_


As far as I'm concerned, the fact they're defaulted to 333FSB instead of 266FSB bears no real relevance as any E6600 reaches 333FSB without haveing to touch the vCore. Couple that with the fact that reviews say that these CPU's can overclock to 3.6Ghz to 3.8Ghz on air doesnt seem all that different either given my own, and a number of other member's, clocking results with the E6600.

I think existing Core 2 owners should be looking towards current Core 2 Quads or future Penryn's if they're looking to upgrade to something worthwhile.


----------



## USlatin

I agree... (I think) I mean I have not seen benches that show any sort of difference.. it is much more about the luck of the draw on your sample or the PSU you use than the bus

About the card being painted off, that is quite the stupid thing to do.... it makes the marks completely useless to us as a way to gauge the impact of such a ridicolousy amazing CPU clock on gaming situations...

I was the one asking about the Q6600 G0 OC-ability, but he used a Gigabyte P35 board.... I was asking about on this board...

side note, that is very probably a golden sample or at least a very good one... it was on water too... I am hoping to be able to somehow get around the FSB limitations on this board and get up to 3.6 with my TT120... I know... that's not crazy high but crazy enough for me... anything over that is a *major *plus...









that would be 400 x 9 and our board seems to only hit like 320-340 (3GHz) with Quads without hard mods, which is 2.4GHz less in Quad street... well, a bit less if considering the Dual Duo setup of the Q6600 when comparing to Duo performance...

still looking for people with more info it out there... just gotta keep hoping someone will drop in with some magical news abotu some development (BIOS related hopefully







)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


I think exising Core 2 owners should be looking towards to current Core 2 Quads or future Penryn's if they're looking to upgrade to something worthwhile.










Agreed, but not if they are looking for increased gamind experience on 98% of games out there, and ESPECIALLY not if they don't have the cash blow like Cogno seems to like to brag about on her video... So if you are considering the general OCN population I would say don't upgrade if you got a 3.something Duo running stable... now that doesn't go for extreme benchers, opulent rich ass-wipes haha and most defenitely not people who like to edit nice stuff in higher than YouTube rez, such as Audi and yours truly who currently hold reservations number 1 and number 2 with Tank Guys...... hahaha... sorry, I just have to make fun of that video... change the song and I'll give it 5 stars though... but till then I'll say that it looks like I could have cut it with my Treo650's processor...









I wish more people realized that an E6600 is almost better cause they'll run cooler at the same clock... E6850's should be every little bit as OC'able as anything out there so that will become the new E6600 agree on that too if that chip delivers what's expected of it...


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


With this board, the higher the multi the faster the benches. A chip I picked up for my daughters' computer is the E4400. Its only 800 Mhz but its dirt cheap and has a 10x multi. I threw it in my board for giggles and was able to run 10x 335 FSB without to much effort. I am certain I could have gone higher.

I suppose if I had to pick, I'd recommend the new E6850. Its default 3 Ghz speed and high multi is excellent for overclocking.


I want one and I want it NOW!


----------



## matthewrsx

For all of us poor -Plus guys on here, a new BIOS has FINALLY been released. Strangely enough, 2 new non-beta BIOSs are now on the ASUS site: 801 and 1201.

And two days ago I finally got the nerve to go to the 0602 beta, but they've taken that down completely. I may flash to 0801 tonight and see how that goes for a few days.


----------



## alexisd

You may want go straight to the 1201.I tested overnight and is a go.
And i agree in that the 6850 goin to be a monster chip,start to pop up @ some places and benches too.And don't forget that Peryn goin to cost plenty af money.No like a $280 to $ 300 chip like the 6850.


----------



## cognoscenti

alex can you link to the new bios for our board.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
alex can you link to the new bios for our board.

Robilar have them in post #1960,good luck cog.They work good.Here they are=http://www.overclock.net/2424650-post1960.html


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


You may want go straight to the 1201.I tested overnight and is a go.
And i agree in that the 6850 goin to be a monster chip,start to pop up @ some places and benches too.And don't forget that Peryn goin to cost plenty af money.No like a $280 to $ 300 chip like the 6850.


Alex he was talking about the Plus board bios release, not our board.

I also embedded the ftp server addess in the first page of the guide itself which has the new bios.


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Alex he was talking about the Plus board bios release, not our board.

I also embedded the ftp server addess in the first page of the guide itself which has the new bios.


I'm using it now.. I was hoping for an added GTL Ref Voltage Menu.....no such luck lol


----------



## Jado

Hello,

I'm using the same board and for some reason I keep getting this error in Orthoz:

[URL=http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/717/***rg6.jpg%5B/IMG]http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/717/***rg6.jpg[/IMG[/URL]]

also, does anyone know WHY it has red boxes infront of my volts with nTune as shown in this picture:

[IMG alt=""]http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/576/infofq5.jpg

anyone wanna help me out and tell me why things arent the way theyre supposed to be? I am a complete overclock noob.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jado*


Hello,

I'm using the same board and for some reason I keep getting this error in Orthoz:

also, does anyone know WHY it has red boxes infront of my volts with nTune as shown in this picture:

anyone wanna help me out and tell me why things arent the way theyre supposed to be? I am a complete overclock noob.


Did you increase the other voltages in the BIOS that Robilar suggested at the beginning of the thread? If not, try that and then report back.
Also, I don't believe there's any significance to the boxes being red.


----------



## Robilar

The red boxes are normal for ntune.

Also you are only running at 1.35 vcore. Thats not very high for overclocking purposes. Try upping it in .01 increments until you get stability.


----------



## Dark Wanderer

I just assembled all my stuff and installed Vista and now I try to flash my bios with ezflash but each time I enter ezflash, it seems to freeze... After 15 seconds nothing happens and nothing appears it the boxes (just the 2 upper boxes have something in it) Is it normal?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Alex he was talking about the Plus board bios release, not our board.

I also embedded the ftp server addess in the first page of the guide itself which has the new bios.



Im using it now and hit over 500fsb!


----------



## Litlratt

cognoscenti said:


> Im using it now and hit over 500fsb!
> 
> Water?


----------



## Mhill2029

Looks like air to me considering here idle temps.


----------



## Robilar

4 Ghz wih an E6600 pretty amazing. Guess my friend at asus was right. There are some other tweaks in the new bios.


----------



## cognoscenti

Litlratt said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*
> 
> 
> Im using it now and hit over 500fsb!
> 
> Water?
> 
> 
> Lol no...still on air.
> 
> Think I have killed one of my Ultras though.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Well played cognoscenti, is that 4.0Ghz still on 1.55v CPU vCore?


----------



## cognoscenti

It was 1.56v, think I partially corrupted my windows though....lol


----------



## mica3speedy

I have a question regarding some of the software that came with the motherboard. I installed a new video card (8600gt), and doing so caused a program called aacenter.exe to take up 50% of my cpu usage at all times. If I put my old card back in by cpu usage would be 0% at idle. Another problem was with the new card was that my computer couldn't shut down or restart properly. I removed aacenter and now my computer runs fine and shuts down, and restarts like it should. My question is what does aacenter.exe do? Does anything depend on it? I removed the other asus programs (aibooster, asus updater, asus probe 2) as well since they are either useless to me or there is something better.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


I have a question regarding some of the software that came with the motherboard. I installed a new video card (8600gt), and doing so caused a program called aacenter.exe to take up 50% of my cpu usage at all times. If I put my old card back in by cpu usage would be 0% at idle. Another problem was with the new card was that my computer couldn't shut down or restart properly. I removed aacenter and now my computer runs fine and shuts down, and restarts like it should. My question is what does aacenter.exe do? Does anything depend on it? I removed the other asus programs (aibooster, asus updater, asus probe 2) as well since they are either useless to me or there is something better.


It always helps to google the process name. It would seem that by doing so, you find out you aren't the only one with this issue:
http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...Language=en-us
It is caused by a program called ASUS ACPI Center. I'm not exactly sure what it does, unfortunately. I've never had that with any of my ASUS boards, or if I did it was not a resource hog.


----------



## Akatsuki No Tobi

Are there any Southbridge after market coolers that can fit an 8800GTX SLI + a Creative Sound Card?


----------



## Anubis_offline

Hello dear Ancient Gamer,
Is there anny news over the new bios 1201?
After testing 3.6 GHz 400fsb stock cooler on the Nb, result blue screen, win32k.sys-Address BF80238F base at BF800000, Datestamp 45f013f6 aaaaaaaaaa I am going








Just ordert the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II I hoop for better Oc results.
2 times installing new windows, the live of an Oc'er is not about roses (Dutch proverb).
Just check mine p5n32-e is Rev 1.00, any problems with this board?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anubis_offline*


Hello dear Ancient Gamer,
Is there anny news over the new bios 1201?
After testing 3.6 GHz 400fsb stock cooler on the Nb, result blue screen, win32k.sys-Address BF80238F base at BF800000, Datestamp 45f013f6 aaaaaaaaaa I am going








Just ordert the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II I hoop for better Oc results.
2 times installing new windows, the live of an Ocâ€™er is not about roses (Dutch proverb).
Just check mine p5n32-e is Rev 1.00, any problems with this board?


Personally I would never install windows running an overclock of 3.6ghz but thats my risk management skills coming through.


----------



## Mhill2029

As far as i'm aware the BETA 1201 Bios is simply aimed at memory compatibility with certain modules.


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Personally I would never install windows running an overclock of 3.6ghz but thats my risk management skills coming through.










Mmmm, never thought about that thx for the tip cognoscenti, risk management skills think, think rings no bell.








When I am looking at your 3DM06 score I get tears in mine eyes and go sit in a corner.
Can`t get mine finger on the problem why mine mobo wont pass 389fsb and why sometimes mine bios is freezing.
Perhaps I have problem P5n32, sounds like dÃ©jÃ* vous!
Vcore 1.53125 
HT 1.4
Mem 2.250
NB 1.5
SB 1.5
VTT 1.55
Mem timing al on auto


----------



## cognoscenti

What kind of MB board temps are you getting?

You might want to investigate cooling your northbridge for stability at high overclocks.


----------



## nuclearjock

I've got a dinky 40mm fan nylon screwed to my stock NB heatsink, (stock thermal junk), and I can run 500 mhz fsb 24/7 with no probs.. If you need > 500mhz, then maybe you need to get fancy, otherwise these fancy chipset coolers seem to be a waste of time (and space).


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
What kind of MB board temps are you getting?

You might want to investigate cooling your northbridge for stability at high overclocks.

Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II is coming tomorrow, and now I am looking for a good mosfet cooling so I can replace the whole thing.

Temp idle
Motherboard 35 Â°C (95 Â°F)
CPU 30 Â°C (86 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Kern #133 Â°C (91 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Kern #233 Â°C (91 Â°F)

Temp full load
Motherboard 37 Â°C (99 Â°F)
CPU 52 Â°C (126 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Kern #1 50 Â°C (122 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Kern #2 51 Â°C (124 Â°F)


----------



## Robilar

NB cooling is required. The better you get, the more stable higher FSB's you will receive.


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuclearjock* 
I've got a dinky 40mm fan nylon screwed to my stock NB heatsink, (stock thermal junk), and I can run 500 mhz fsb 24/7 with no probs.. If you need > 500mhz, then maybe you need to get fancy, otherwise these fancy chipset coolers seem to be a waste of time (and space).

Nope, got 40mm Cooler master screwed on the NB just to test it but can`t passed the 389fsb.
I wait for the fancy NB cooler, mebie because mine p5n32-e is rev 1.0 I can`t hit 400fsb whiteout cooler.


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
NB cooling is required. The better you get, the more stable higher FSB's you will receive.

Lol, put it in your Oc guide as proverb!

NB cooling is required. The better you get, the more stable higher FSB's you will receive


----------



## rsnt

Hey Rob, am I going to have any problems running the new C2Ds on the board right out of the box since the stock BIOS will not be the most current, hence won't have support? I just thought about that and figured I might ask.

I just got my BGA ram sinks from ncix, picked up the ICEBERQ and ICEBERQ 4 from infonec yesterday, I'm getting the board on Thursday + TT extreme spirit II + OCZ XTC ram cooler from infonec again.

The guy at infonec did mention something about the board undervolting the ram and causing issues with the same kit, so looks like i need to get me a cheap 1.8v (or was it 1.9v default voltage) DDR2 in case I run into trouble.

Man I'm excited


----------



## cognoscenti

When I did 4ghz 500FSB it was done with stock Asus cooling.

I gave away my Thermaltake to MadHandlez awhile back.


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
When I did 4ghz 500FSB it was done with stock Asus cooling.

I gave away my Thermaltake to MadHandlez awhile back.

if that was directed at me I meant stock (or whatever version) bios the board will have.


----------



## prosser13

It'll have the latest BIOS which was out when the board's BIOS was programmed


----------



## rsnt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *prosser13*


It'll have the latest BIOS which was out when the board's BIOS was programmed










Yes I know that, but that BIOS doesn't have support for the new core 2 due's, which makes me wonder if I'm going to have a problem booting into BIOS with a new C2D.


----------



## Anubis_offline

I found notes new bios

BIOS version 1202 Date:05/23/2007 Extreme

Checksum: A800H

01.Update NV RAID ROM to 6.98
02.Update NVMM to 4.A72.24
03.Support wolfdale CPU.
04.Release EZflash B322
05.Add microcode not found & update fail message.
06.Modify CPU fan speed warning item value.

BIOS version: 1201 Date:05/09/2007

01.Use new French translation.
02.Modify General Help string.
03.Use new B5 translation.
04.Fixed floppy item value error.
05.Skip checking 2nd Checksum for some memory patch
06.Disable unused PCIE Bridge to fix
a.DTM -PCI Compliance issue
b.ATI Crossfire fail issue.
07.Use new GB translation.
08.Patch Hynix HYMP512U64CP8-S5-AB when Full Loading for stability
09.Release EZ Flash2 version B321.
10.Update new microcode :
a.New Micro Code for CPU: 06FBH Patch ID=B3H Platform ID =10h (Kentsfield-G0).
b.New Micro Code for CPU: 06FBH Patch ID=B3H Platform ID =01h (Conroe-G0).
c.New Micro Code for CPU: 06FDH Patch ID=A1H Platform ID =01h (Conroe-M0).
11.Use new Japanese translation.
12.Support post message in Japanese
13.Added SATA trap for MCP55.
14.Fixed L1 and L2 cache size will show incorrect in DMI with Conroe-L CPU.
15.Update Micro Code for CPU: 10661H Patch ID=32H Platform ID =01h (Conroe-L-A1).
16.Fixed Conroe-L CPU L2 cache size show incorrect issue.
17.Update Micro Code for CPU=0F65H ID=09H Platform ID=04h. (Cedar Mill/Cedar Mill ICP/Presler)
18.Fixed when Post96h update DMI data and AC power loss.The DMI data might be destroyed.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anubis_offline* 
BIOS version: 1201 Date:05/09/2007
06.Disable unused PCIE Bridge to fix
a.DTM -PCI Compliance issue
b.ATI Crossfire fail issue.

Who was trying to run Crossfire on an SLI board?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsnt*


Hey Rob, am I going to have any problems running the new C2Ds on the board right out of the box since the stock BIOS will not be the most current, hence won't have support? I just thought about that and figured I might ask.

I just got my BGA ram sinks from ncix, picked up the ICEBERQ and ICEBERQ 4 from infonec yesterday, I'm getting the board on Thursday + TT extreme spirit II + OCZ XTC ram cooler from infonec again.

The guy at infonec did mention something about the board undervolting the ram and causing issues with the same kit, so looks like i need to get me a cheap 1.8v (or was it 1.9v default voltage) DDR2 in case I run into trouble.

Man I'm excited










They are supposed to support 1333 CPU's out of the box with 0602 bios (Which is what will likely be loaded).

For ram, put one stick in the closest slot to the cpu. Upon first boot go immediately into the bios and set the ram voltage manually to what its specced at. You can then save the setting, shut it down and add the rest of your ram without issue.

Infonec has a decent selection (not always in stock but at least they can order it in fairly quick).


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


When I did 4ghz 500FSB it was done with stock Asus cooling.

I gave away my Thermaltake to MadHandlez awhile back.



I ran 500 FSB with the first bios revision (0302) back when I got the board last november with stock cooling as well. I wouldn;t recommend it long term as it would degrade the lifespan of the nb chipset signifigantly (if its stable at all).

Also at the time I had the thermaltake armor with 25 CM door fan blowing straight down into the chipset.

I have been able to hit 524 FSB with the board since I added the thermaltake coolers.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anubis_offline*


I found notes new bios

BIOS version 1202 Date:05/23/2007 Extreme

Checksum: A800H

01.Update NV RAID ROM to 6.98
02.Update NVMM to 4.A72.24
03.Support wolfdale CPU.
04.Release EZflash B322
05.Add microcode not found & update fail message.
06.Modify CPU fan speed warning item value.

BIOS version: 1201 Date:05/09/2007

01.Use new French translation.
02.Modify General Help string.
03.Use new B5 translation.
04.Fixed floppy item value error.
05.Skip checking 2nd Checksum for some memory patch
06.Disable unused PCIE Bridge to fix
a.DTM -PCI Compliance issue
b.ATI Crossfire fail issue.
07.Use new GB translation.
08.Patch Hynix HYMP512U64CP8-S5-AB when Full Loading for stability
09.Release EZ Flash2 version B321.
10.Update new microcode :
a.New Micro Code for CPU: 06FBH Patch ID=B3H Platform ID =10h (Kentsfield-G0).
b.New Micro Code for CPU: 06FBH Patch ID=B3H Platform ID =01h (Conroe-G0).
c.New Micro Code for CPU: 06FDH Patch ID=A1H Platform ID =01h (Conroe-M0).
11.Use new Japanese translation.
12.Support post message in Japanese
13.Added SATA trap for MCP55.
14.Fixed L1 and L2 cache size will show incorrect in DMI with Conroe-L CPU.
15.Update Micro Code for CPU: 10661H Patch ID=32H Platform ID =01h (Conroe-L-A1).
16.Fixed Conroe-L CPU L2 cache size show incorrect issue.
17.Update Micro Code for CPU=0F65H ID=09H Platform ID=04h. (Cedar Mill/Cedar Mill ICP/Presler)
18.Fixed when Post96h update DMI data and AC power loss.The DMI data might be destroyed.


Interesting considering the release code on the 1201 bios is July 7 2007, not may 9 as you indicated. Also the 1201 is on the asus site for download without notes.

Where did you find this info?


----------



## brb....Godot

Hi guys. I finally got my Thermalright ultra 120 extreme. I've removed all the copper bling and installed the Swiftech MC21 mosfet coolers as well as the Ultra 120 extreme and my question is this....... Does it matter which blue slot your vid card resides in? According to the manual both are x16 pcie slots. I'm about to put my vid card back in the bottom slot to facilitate the Tt extreme spirit on the sb without having to cut that screw, is this gonna mess me up?


----------



## alexisd

If you put the gpu in the bottom you got problems with the spirit II.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brb....Godot* 
I'm about to put my vid card back in the bottom slot to facilitate the Tt extreme spirit on the sb without having to cut that screw, is this gonna mess me up?

You could just swap your PCI cards about so you can put in in the top slot instead, though you'll proabbly have to uninstall and reinstall the drivers if you do this. Your card should operate fine in the bottom slot, but I think you'd be better of useing the primary if possible.


----------



## brb....Godot

Grrr, I was hoping you wouldn't say that.


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Interesting considering the release code on the 1201 bios is July 7 2007, not may 9 as you indicated. Also the 1201 is on the asus site for download without notes.

Where did you find this info?


The bios noted is from Oc site here in holland, Sorry Rob the date is in euro styl Day/month/year for you 9/5/2007 was bit layz yesterday!


----------



## matthewrsx

I'm getting a Zalman GPU cooler which includes little heatsinks for the memory chips. I'm probably going to use arctic silver adhesive compound to attach them. Attaching these is probably similar to attaching mosfet heatsinks, which I know a number of you have done.

My question is if any of you used the thermal adhesive, did you do like the instructions say and put silicone over the leads coming out of the chip? Never used thermal adhesive before so looking for some pointers to do it the right way.


----------



## Akatsuki No Tobi

Are there any problems fitting an after market cooler for the North Bridge if I get SLI 8800s with an X-Fi card?


----------



## matthewrsx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Depends on the cooling solution you use and the length of your sound card. With the thermaltake spirit, I only have 150mm of length. the creative x-fi cards are 157mm long. Thats why I bought a bluegears b-enspirer (146mm long). If you use the thermalright hr-05 sli, then you can use a longer card.


Sounds like others have had problems with the longer X-Fi card.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mattewrsx*

My question is if any of you used the thermal adhesive, did you do like the instructions say and put silicone over the leads coming out of the chip? Never used thermal adhesive before so looking for some pointers to do it the right way.


A tiny amount of Arctic Silver 5 to be honest. And I do mean tiny.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Akatsuki No Tobi*


Are there any problems fitting an after market cooler for the North Bridge if I get SLI 8800s with an X-Fi card?


Nope, provided its similar in size to the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II or the Noctua NU6, though you're best off with stock on the SouthBridge if you intend to use an X-Fi.


----------



## matthewrsx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


A tiny amount of Arctic Silver 5 to be honest. And I do mean tiny.










But AS5 is just paste, right? Won't the heatsinks just fall right off the card? The way the card is oriented, the chips are on the underside of the card.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *matthewrsx*


But AS5 is just paste, right? Won't the heatsinks just fall right off the card? The way the card is oriented, the chips are on the underside of the card.


Sorry I should've elaborated. I used to mix a tiny amount into the thermal adhesive that came with one of my GPU coolers. Otherwise just stick with the raw stock adhesive that came with it and follow the instructions as normal.


----------



## cabbyjoe

I am presently waiting for my 3rd ASUS P5N32-E SLI to get back from ASUS. For some reason, every time i try to oc.... after a few reboots cause the system didnt like it I cant even post. i try to clear the CMOS and do the whole battery thing and all that but i cant get into bios. its happened 2 times now. i set all the settings like you said in your guide but didnt know what FSB to pick or even if I am doing this at all close to correct. Please help. Thanx,,,,, Joe


----------



## brb....Godot

Here's a tip for all those folks who own this mobo and are thinking about using this cooler on their SB. As previously reported by Robilar et al, you have to cut off one of the mounting screws so it will fit under the gpu cooling unit on a 8800 GTX. I read this while waiting for my parts to arrive and completely gapped and forgot about having to cut the screw short and because my hacksaw is stored in parts unknown I had to come up with another solution. It's really quite simple, just reverse the orientation of the screw and standoffs! It's best to do this with another set of hands available, I managed to do it myself but it's a tad tricky to line it all up. What I did was pass the screw through the mounting bracket so the screwhead is up top not underneath as shown in the instructions. Then simply screw on one of the standoffs until there's enough thread showing so that it's visible on the underside of the mobo. Then lastly add the second standoff under the mobo to complete a full reversal of the original setup. One Caveat to this to make sure that the screw does not come out of the bottom of the bottom standoff, if it contacts the mounting plate in your case, trouble city. I checked the standoffs in my case and saw that they were longer than the ones supplied with the Tt Extreme, I also made sure that none of the screw appeared just to be safe.

No Cutting! Woot!


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brb....Godot*


Here's a tip for all those folks who own this mobo and are thinking about using this cooler on their SB. As previously reported by Robilar et al, you have to cut off one of the mounting screws so it will fit under the gpu cooling unit on a 8800 GTX. I read this while waiting for my parts to arrive and completely gapped and forgot about having to cut the screw short and because my hacksaw is stored in parts unknown I had to come up with another solution. It's really quite simple, just reverse the orientation of the screw and standoffs! It's best to do this with another set of hands available, I managed to do it myself but it's a tad tricky to line it all up. What I did was pass the screw through the mounting bracket so the screwhead is up top not underneath as shown in the instructions. Then simply screw on one of the standoffs until there's enough thread showing so that it's visible on the underside of the mobo. Then lastly add the second standoff under the mobo to complete a full reversal of the original setup. One Caveat to this to make sure that the screw does not come out of the bottom of the bottom standoff, if it contacts the mounting plate in your case, trouble city. I checked the standoffs in my case and saw that they were longer than the ones supplied with the Tt Extreme, I also made sure that none of the screw appeared just to be safe.

No Cutting! Woot!


Pictures? Not quite sure what you are describing.


----------



## USlatin

I apologize for being lazy, but there are 10 new pages since I left on vacation and I am busy as crap... can someone please tell me if I should flash to 1201? any cool stuff added with the update?


----------



## Robilar

I'm running 1201 without issues. Other than increased compatibility with the new cpu's due out, I have no idea if it makes a difference yet. Seems very stable though.


----------



## Anubis_offline

The Thermaltake Extreme Spirit fixed ( still very hot) on mine mobo and placed 80mm Zalman fan at left side blowing between Nb mem.
Just barely passed 389fsb, I am out of options set mine goal to lower GHz en better mem timings.
Orthos 3min 49sec 9x 389 Vcore 1.56250
I hoop Bios 1201 will reveal the light to me, I am praying to Oc godâ€™s pleas give my 400fsb


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anubis_offline*


The Thermaltake Extreme Spirit fixed ( still very hot) on mine mobo and placed 80mm Zalman fan at left side blowing between Nb mem.
Just barely passed 389fsb, I am out of options set mine goal to lower GHz en better mem timings.
Orthos 3min 49sec 9x 389 Vcore 1.56250
I hoop Bios 1201 will reveal the light to me, I am praying to Oc god's pleas give my 400fsb










To be honest Anubis_Offline it sounds like your CPU isn't a great stepping, this mobo does 400Mhz FSB on the Core 2 Duo's without the need of aftermarket cooling. i should know, i was running my E6600 @ 3.6Ghz. I think it's your CPU that's the issue here my friend.


----------



## USlatin

so you went with the Spirit for your NB Anubis.... but you say it runs hot?


----------



## Robilar

Also, the Zalman 9500 is not the best choice for dual core overclocking. I had good results with the zalman 9700 and even better with my new thermalright.

The zalman 9500 is designed for moderate overclocking with low noise. You will need a better cooler if you want to go higher.


----------



## USlatin

good point Robilar, and thank you for the post about 1201... I'll catch up w/you guys later.

About 1201... if it is meant to increase compatibility with CPUs... then there is a slim to non-existent chance that it might allow for higher FSBs with Quads... any word on that yet? I doubt anyone other than you and Alex are running 1201 yet hahha but if you see anyone with Quads on this board ask 'em what BIOS.... I will do the same


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


good point Robilar, and thank you for the post about 1201... I'll catch up w/you guys later.

About 1201... if it is meant to increase compatibility with CPUs... then there is a slim to non-existent chance that it might allow for higher FSBs with Quads... any word on that yet? I doubt anyone other than you and Alex are running 1201 yet hahha but if you see anyone with Quads on this board ask 'em what BIOS.... I will do the same


What am i invisible? lol I have been testing my board with a Quad, and Bios 1201 does nothing regarding FSB for them....still the same limititation of around 1400 (QDR) MAX.


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*


To be honest Anubis_Offline it sounds like your CPU isn't a great stepping, this mobo does 400Mhz FSB on the Core 2 Duo's without the need of aftermarket cooling. i should know, i was running my E6600 @ 3.6Ghz. I think it's your CPU that's the issue here my friend.


Yes I think so to&#8230;..case of bad stepping, damm that hurts friend 3.6 GHz.
I was so close to it....mebie E6750 is better and sell this E6600 for soft price to a friend.
Thx for the info!
Yes it still hot afther 15 sec you burn your finger, used AC5! 
lower mine NB to 1.4


----------



## USlatin

anubis how hot is your NB running, and what volts?


----------



## brb....Godot

There's a pic in my gallery showing it.
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho...o=7765&cat=500
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho...o=7771&cat=500


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


anubis how hot is your NB running, and what volts?


Nb now 1.4V temp Nb can't find it


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brb....Godot* 
There's a pic in my gallery showing it.
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho...o=7765&cat=500
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho...o=7771&cat=500

Erm, then what does it look like normally?


----------



## brb....Godot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stargate125645*


Erm, then what does it look like normally?


Normally that screwhead that you see in the picture is on the bottom side of the mobo. You feed the bolt up through the hole then attach a stand off then thread it through the mounting bracket where it's secured with another stand off. What I did was simply reverse the process. I fed the bolt Down through the mounting bracket with a stand off above and below the mobo. This eliminates the need to shorten the bolt to accommodate the stand off under the gpu dual slot cooler.


----------



## brb....Godot

Does anybody know what if any XP services Core Temp uses?
I'm about to start my OC and it won't load and causes an instant BSOD.
Any help would be appreciated.
I crank all my XP services down pretty hard ala Blackviper and may have shut off something it needs.
Also Ntune won't let me detect optimal freqs, ATItool does but I'm spiking some really hot temps in the mid to high 80's. What am I doing wrong here? lol


----------



## Litlratt

I don't know if it's been confirmed yet, but the Evercool Twinkling VGA Cooler VC-RE will fit on this board when running an X-Fi card. A slight mod is necessary as the lever from the 2nd PCIE slot(white one) rubs against the fins on the cooler. It's necessary to cut about 3 of the fins off. The fan is easily removed if you're concerned with damaging it.


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mhill2029* 
What am i invisible? lol I have been testing my board with a Quad, and Bios 1201 does nothing regarding FSB for them....still the same limititation of around 1400 (QDR) MAX.

QX version you could simply up the multi


----------



## menko2

i used this board for some time with no problems, but now i the computer crashes and freeze frequently.

it has the "nv4_displ infinite loop problem" and i change drivers of the graphic with no results.

i updated to the new "non beta" bios and maybe it could be this. i dont know.

im a bit desperate.....

any help???


----------



## USlatin

thanks for that post LitlRatt... I will be installing one on my SB and I have an X-Fi... will post pics but not till I get my QG0


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*


i used this board for some time with no problems, but now i the computer crashes and freeze frequently.

it has the "nv4_displ infinite loop problem" and i change drivers of the graphic with no results.

i updated to the new "non beta" bios and maybe it could be this. i dont know.

im a bit desperate.....

any help???



sorry I didn't adress this we posted at the same time... you might have to get Driver Cleaner.... I had a problem like so... though i was able to use my rig for a while some times for a very long time before it would shut down... the problem might be that there are remains from other drivers and they cause incompatibility amongst themselves... I can't remember the name right but everyone know it here.... Driver Cleaner?


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*


i used this board for some time with no problems, but now i the computer crashes and freeze frequently.

it has the "nv4_displ infinite loop problem" and i change drivers of the graphic with no results.

i updated to the new "non beta" bios and maybe it could be this. i dont know.

im a bit desperate.....

any help???


Are you overclocking the cards much?

This is a telltale sign when you overclock your cards further than they like it.

Best to clean you drivers out like USlatin said and return to stock speeds and see if its corected or not.


----------



## matthewrsx

When I ordered my GPU cooler, I also ordered one of those case panels with three integrated thermistors (my transformation to total geek is now complete!).

I'm wondering the best way to install/attach those. I'd like to put one of them on the northbridge, but it's probably not a good idea to install it between the chip and the heatsink is it? Even though the thermistor itself is very thin, it still would probably prevent good contact between the chip and the heatsink I would think.

I might try to put it on the heatsink itself, somewhere near the center. Wouldn't be quite as accurate a reading as on the chip itself though.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
thanks for that post LitlRatt... I will be installing one on my SB and I have an X-Fi... will post pics but not till I get my QG0

http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho...2/limit/recent


----------



## USlatin

u are crazy.... I mean crazy rig of course... wow...

and thank you very much for the pic... so I guess you cut a few of the copper fins so the white clip would go over the HS... nice... I bet it will be tricky with the tools I have available but I should be able to pull it off... and thankfully I have an extra HS from the one I had on my DS3's NB which I hacked the fan out of...


----------



## IcedEarth

I just put mine together (check system) but it didn't come with a driver CD

Also, Asus website download section doesn't seem to be working for me









Can anyone link me to the chipset drivers for Vista 32bit please? Rep + if you can.

Every single app is reading my Vcore as 2.25 rather than 1.25


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*


I just put mine together (check system) but it didn't come with a driver CD

Also, Asus website download section doesn't seem to be working for me









Can anyone link me to the chipset drivers for Vista 32bit please? Rep + if you can.

Every single app is reading my Vcore as 2.25 rather than 1.25










http://www.nvidia.com/object/nforce_...sta_15.01.html


----------



## USlatin

download the 680i from NVIDIA


----------



## madmax1436

ltrfrw great thread been reading since feb. as got this board due to short supply on evga 680i ha ha . great thread much respect to all . got me running @ 3.15 no prob. first build n having fun. great read u guys


----------



## madmax1436

sorry guys specs r asus p5n33-e sli bfg8800gts oc zalman9700 ocz 8500 sli ready mem. antec 900 case n everything much else at stock


----------



## stargate125645

I finally got my RMAed board in and I put in the G.Skill DDR2 1000 I bought. It runs at DDR2 1000, but not at the specified 4-4-4-5 timings, even at 2.3V. Should I RMA the pair?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stargate125645* 
I finally got my RMAed board in and I put in the G.Skill DDR2 1000 I bought. It runs at DDR2 1000, but not at the specified 4-4-4-5 timings, even at 2.3V. Should I RMA the pair?

No a bad idea.Even @ 2.3?RMa time,you try to work with the subtimmings?


----------



## stargate125645

No idea what the subtimings do. I have it running at 5-5-5-6 right now, though I'm sure I could tighten it a bit with a little effort. I did get spare RAM with the same order so it wouldn't be a problem to RMA.


----------



## USlatin

hey, hope not a re-post but did anyone esle see that we just got stamped with the 45nm ready seal by ASUS?
And if you are allready running 1103 then you don't even need to re-flash

http://www.overclock.net/news-overcl...herboards.html


----------



## alexisd

Yup that's why i update to the 1201,ready for my 6850 soon like the next week.








And stargate the subtimmings help for stability in your memory and maked faster.I always adjust my subtimmings for benches.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Yup that's why i update to the 1201,ready for my 6850 soon like the next week.








And stargate the subtimmings help for stability in your memory and maked faster.I always adjust my subtimmings for benches.

Yeah, but I have no idea what to adjust them _to_...


----------



## USlatin

haha same here... haven't really set them ever yet


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stargate125645* 
Yeah, but I have no idea what to adjust them _to_...

Here is some examples,only to get the idea.Try to use memset 3.2 or go thru bios settings.When i run my 13.313s in super pi my subtimmings did the trick.


----------



## stargate125645

Sorry, but that doesn't help me...

You think I should RMA, though?


----------



## menko2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


sorry I didn't adress this we posted at the same time... you might have to get Driver Cleaner.... I had a problem like so... though i was able to use my rig for a while some times for a very long time before it would shut down... the problem might be that there are remains from other drivers and they cause incompatibility amongst themselves... I can't remember the name right but everyone know it here.... Driver Cleaner?


i used frequently Driver Cleaner .Net and i also reinstall windows with no success so its not that.

i also dont have overclocked the card so i wonder why do i get the "nv4_disp infinite loop".

my pc freezes all the time and i think its that the problem.

maybe the power suppy?? maybe the card?? i wonder how can i test them independently like i did with memtest86 for the ram.

any sugestions??


----------



## USlatin

you might want to try to get a second videocard in there and see if it works fine with the different card... borrow one if you have to... to test the PSU you have to get a voltmeter and do some research... there are many guys here at OCN that can guide you to testing your PSU... just post on the PSU section...

is your PSU new? as in, did you use it before you got your GTX? you could also hook up a different PSU to see if the problem goes away...

Is the card brand new too? when did you get your card and PSU?


----------



## IcedEarth

Hey guys, i installed my chipset drivers but they haven't solved any of my problems









For one, my idle temps are reporting 37/39 and my load temps are 43/40

Thats only a 3C temps difference from idle to load....which seems very strange.

Also, only CPU-Z actually reports my Vcore correctly, every other programme reports it as 2.25Vcore and even reports a 3.5x multi









Any solutions?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*


Hey guys, i installed my chipset drivers but they haven't solved any of my problems









For one, my idle temps are reporting 37/39 and my load temps are 43/40

Thats only a 3C temps difference from idle to load....which seems very strange.

Also, only CPU-Z actually reports my Vcore correctly, every other programme reports it as 2.25Vcore and even reports a 3.5x multi









Any solutions?


Most people use Core Temp for cpu monitoring.
PC Probe II and Everest are good for voltages.


----------



## IcedEarth

Everest reports 2.25 Vcore

That's what i don't understand.

Also, with the settings like when they came, i could OC the CPU to 2.8Ghz no problem on stock volts. Then i put everything to defaulkt and now it won't even go to 2Ghz without a BSOD


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*


Everest reports 2.25 Vcore

That's what i don't understand.

Also, with the settings like when they came, i could OC the CPU to 2.8Ghz no problem on stock volts. Then i put everything to defaulkt and now it won't even go to 2Ghz without a BSOD










Flash the BIOS to at least the 1103 within the BIOS. Not Windows. Use setup defaults to flash.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Just thought I'd let everyone know that for some reason SPP <-> MCP Ref Clock and AGP Aperature Size, have been brought back with the 1201 beta BIOS.


----------



## IcedEarth

I'm already using BIOS 1103









Seems like i have run out of solutions


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*


I'm already using BIOS 1103









Seems like i have run out of solutions


Have you tried the latest version of PC Probe II?
Are you having issues other than these things not reporting correctly?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IcedEarth* 
Everest reports 2.25 Vcore

That's what i don't understand.

Also, with the settings like when they came, i could OC the CPU to 2.8Ghz no problem on stock volts. Then i put everything to defaulkt and now it won't even go to 2Ghz without a BSOD









You running your memory unlinked?Try this.
v.core=1.40
HT=1.2
NB=1.35
SB=1.5
cpuvtt=1.55
memory 940,4 4 4 4 2T
Tha's a 3.25 solid rock,1300x10 with my 6700ES.But those volts work fine.You can use nvidia monitor for the volts.


----------



## IcedEarth

Thanks for your help Alexis and Litlratt

Something weird is happening though.

I tried them numbers you put Alex (not the RAM though) and it didn't post at 2.8 (thats only 400FSB, 1600QDR) I had my RAM running linked 1:1 with it, so it should have done 800mhz right....which isnt too hard on stock volts of 2.0 considering it is pc6400 (not got my PC8000 yet)

But it didn't post. So i went back in and put my RAM on 400MHZ and upped the SB to 1.6 and it has posted.......i have no idea what was holding it back. Will do some more testing. Rep + to both of you









And Litleratt, yes my other problem was that when i tried to OC my pc (even to 2.0Gz) it wouldn't post...even at 1.35Vcore

Any ideas what was wrong?

EDIT: Done a little bit more, going to ORTHOS test it in a bit.










Were can i find my NB/SB temps?

Thanks for the support so far, always appreciated









And yes i think the mobo was trying to run my RAM at the same frequency as the QDR (i.e 1600mhz!) so i will just try and run 1:1 manually


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IcedEarth* 
Thanks for your help Alexis and Litlratt

Something weird is happening though.

I tried them numbers you put Alex (not the RAM though) and it didn't post at 2.8 (thats only 400FSB, 1600QDR) I had my RAM running linked 1:1 with it, so it should have done 800mhz right....which isnt too hard on stock volts of 2.0 considering it is pc6400 (not got my PC8000 yet)

But it didn't post. So i went back in and put my RAM on 400MHZ and upped the SB to 1.6 and it has posted.......i have no idea what was holding it back. Will do some more testing. Rep + to both of you









And Litleratt, yes my other problem was that when i tried to OC my pc (even to 2.0Gz) it wouldn't post...even at 1.35Vcore

Any ideas what was wrong?

EDIT: Done a little bit more, going to ORTHOS test it in a bit.
Were can i find my NB/SB temps?

Thanks for the support so far, always appreciated









And yes i think the mobo was trying to run my RAM at the same frequency as the QDR (i.e 1600mhz!) so i will just try and run 1:1 manually









1:1 isn't all it's cracked up to be imho.
1.6 is comparably high on the sb. No sensor on the board for the chipsets tiao but the mb sensor is close to the nb afaik. Do the finger test on the sb.


----------



## IcedEarth

Well with my other boards i have never had to worry about chipset temps so i never bothered learning which was which.

The long heatsink was fine. Was pretty warm but nothing to worry about

The square heatsink practically melted my finger. As in it was that hot i'm mot probably going to get a blister lol

Something tells me that isn't good! NB is at 1.35V (1.2 is stock) and my SB is at 1.6V (1.5 is stock)

So temps shouldn't really be a problem


----------



## Robilar

The chipsets run hot on this board even at stock.

Solution: active cooling


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IcedEarth* 
Everest reports 2.25 Vcore

You're useing Vista like me, Everest screws up from time to time and so does SpeedFan when it comes to voltages. When in doubt, go by the built in volt monitor in the BIOS.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IcedEarth* 
Also, with the settings like when they came, i could OC the CPU to 2.8Ghz no problem on stock volts. Then i put everything to defaulkt and now it won't even go to 2Ghz without a BSOD









You need to manually enter the appropriate voltages for pretty much everything if you want to run as high as 400FSB.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IcedEarth* 
I tried them numbers you put Alex (not the RAM though) and it didn't post at 2.8 (thats only 400FSB, 1600QDR) I had my RAM running linked 1:1 with it, so it should have done 800mhz right....which isnt too hard on stock volts of 2.0 considering it is pc6400 (not got my PC8000 yet)

But it didn't post. So i went back in and put my RAM on 400MHZ and upped the SB to 1.6 and it has posted.......i have no idea what was holding it back.

You shouldn't need to raise the SouthBridge any higher than 1.6v, though your NorthBridge is going to need 1.55v to run stable at 400FSB. It's also possible that you may need even more than 1.45v CPU vCore aswell, though be sure not to go any higher than 1.55v on air cooling.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IcedEarth* 
yes my other problem was that when i tried to OC my pc (even to 2.0Gz) it wouldn't post...even at 1.35Vcore

Not enough vCore in my opinion, shoot for 1.45v or 1.5v, then work backwards in an effort to reduce temperatures.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar*
The chipsets run hot on this board even at stock.

Solution: active cooling

Word, to be honest.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
The chipsets run hot on this board even at stock.

Solution: active cooling

I wouldn't trust myself to take off the heatsinks and replace ti with active cooling. I would kill the board







Also my TTBT would get in the way i think.

Also Tactical, everything seems fine. It is 30 minutes stable @ 3.2 now with my SB at 1.6 and my NB at 1.35

I honestly have no idea what the problem was. I think it was the RAM.

And i'm only at 1.36 Vcore, the dude i bought this off got it up to 3.4 stable on 1.36Vcore so i'm pretty much nearly there a swell.

Just hope the board doesn't burn up and die lol










HT - 1.2V
NB - 1.35V
SB - 1.60V
CPU VVT - 1.55V (don't even know what it does)


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IcedEarth* 
CPU VVT - 1.55V (don't even know what it does)

VTT relates to the input voltage of the system bus, otherwise refered to as the FSB termination voltage. This is simply the voltage the FSB runs on. Logical levels of the FSB are consistant with this voltage, or in other words, higher VTT can assist in attaining higher clock speeds without impacting temperatures.


----------



## IcedEarth

Ahh right, nice to know.

Well then i don't have to worry that i maxed it out


----------



## alexisd

Time to go higher,icedearth?Bump that fsb.


----------



## rsnt

I just got done removing the heatpipes on the board and installed the MC21 Mosfet sinks, in the process I decided to install either the ICEBERQ or the ICEBERQ 4 on the southbridge and it simply didn't work without taking a chance on breaking something. the ICEBERQ 4 was just too big, the other one was nearly impossible to line up the holes because the BIOS battery was in the way.

Maybe someone else got it to work but I'm pretty sure they didn't have fun doing so. I should start looking for something else for the southbridge. I'm open for suggestions, in case anyone's wondering, I will be using the middle PCI slot for a creative XtremeMusic, so I think I should be considering clearance issues.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsnt* 
I will be using the middle PCI slot for a creative XtremeMusic, so I think I should be considering clearance issues.

Either reinstall your X-Fi into the lowest PCI slot or look into the ThermalRight HR-05 SLi. As for a decent SouthBridge cooler, Robilar is useing Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II coolers on both his NorthBridge and SouthBridge, though you'll have to reinstall your X-Fi into the lowest PCI slot to use one of these.


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
Either reinstall your X-Fi into the lowest PCI slot or look into the ThermalRight HR-05 SLi. As for a decent SouthBridge cooler, Robilar is useing Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II coolers on both his NorthBridge and SouthBridge, though you'll have to reinstall your X-Fi into the lowest PCI slot to use one of these.

Thats an easy solution but if I want to SLI with two GTS's or GTX's I'll have to install the X-Fi into the middle PCI slot. I already have the Extreme Spirit II for the Northbridge but I think it'll create clearance issues on the SouthBridge with the X-Fi installed.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsnt* 
Thats an easy solution but if I want to SLI with two GTS's or GTX's I'll have to install the X-Fi into the middle PCI slot. I already have the Extreme Spirit II for the Northbridge but I think it'll create clearance issues on the SouthBridge with the X-Fi installed.

Look at post 2068. The Evercool will work with an X-Fi and sli GTXes. Pic in my gallery.


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
Look at post 2068. The Evercool will work with an X-Fi and sli GTXes. Pic in my gallery.

So this one?


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsnt* 
So this one?

That looks like it, though I don't remember the exact model. You will have to clip off a few fins, though.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsnt* 
So this one?

Yes, that's the one and it must be modded. Not difficult to do though.


----------



## Anubis_offline

Maxed out at 9 x 377 4-4-4-8 T1, I order another Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II, looking in to Sunbeam Tuniq Tower 120 tower or the Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme. And to top it off Swiftech MC21 and some nice fan's Silverstone120mm/papst 120mm to put on 1 of the cpu cooler.
I donâ€™t give upâ€¦.the sage continuation


----------



## USlatin

hahaha... you just dropped some serious air cooling cashola there... Anubis is going FTW

can't wait to get my CPU Litlratt but I gotta be ready... I will install my Evercool that same day so what should I have handy to cut the fins with?

(will also be re-lapping the TT so a busy day better be ready)


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
hahaha... you just dropped some serious air cooling cashola there... Anubis is going FTW

can't wait to get my CPU Litlratt but I gotta be ready... I will install my Evercool that same day so what should I have handy to cut the fins with?

(will also be re-lapping the TT so a busy day better be ready)

I'm waiting on my QGO also. Might just get a 6850 too.
I took the fan out of the Evercool and used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel. The fins are very thin, insert the wheel from the top, edge first and then push against the fins.


----------



## USlatin

don't have a dremel... dang! I need some tools...

any other ideas?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
don't have a dremel... dang! I need some tools...

any other ideas?

The fins are so thin you might be able to do it with an Xacto (sp?)knife.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


don't have a dremel... dang! I need some tools...

any other ideas?


It's copper so it isn't very hard. Tin snips ought to do it just fine if you can find ones thin enough to cut one fin at a time. Otherwise you might need to use needle nose pliers to bend the fins into submission.


----------



## USlatin

hey, what about thin sissors? that otta do the trick


----------



## stargate125645

Anyone using G.Skill DDR2 1000 with this board? The best I can get mine to do is 5-4-4-5 @2.3V, which is not as good as the 4-4-4-5 specs so I am going to RMA it. I didn't pay $200 to have something be almost as good as it says.

Good thing I was smart enough to buy a set of backup RAM for this board!


----------



## alexisd

You can try 4 4 4 5 2T and drop the volts a little bit try 2.1.I have mines [email protected] 4 4 4 4 2T and 2.1.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


You can try 4 4 4 5 2T and drop the volts a little bit try 2.1.I have mines [email protected] 4 4 4 4 2T and 2.1.


Why would too much voltage make it not POST? I would think the RAM would do its rated specs at 2.3V much more easily than 2.1V.


----------



## USlatin

or you could RMA and get the 800's which I have had no problem running three different sets at 4-4-4-12-1T 950 or 4-4-4-12-2T 1100... still haven't tried with four sticks but I have 4 running at 4-4-4-12-1000

It doesn't sound like the 1000's are really worth the premium over 800's

all with 2.3


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
or you could RMA and get the 800's which I have had no problem running three different sets at 4-4-4-12-1T 950 or 4-4-4-12-2T 1100... still haven't tried with four sticks but I have 4 running at 4-4-4-12-1000

It doesn't sound like the 1000's are really worth the premium over 800's

all with 2.3

Probably not, but when I get 4-4-4-5 out of them, I'll be happy.


----------



## matthewrsx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


The chipsets run hot on this board even at stock.

Solution: active cooling


I'm still trying to figure out the best way to attach my thermistors to the NB so I can report some actual temps (not that the finger method isn't scientific...)

I'm thinking now that if I can't install it between the heatsink and the chip itself, I might try to tape it near the center of the heatsink inbetween the fins. Maybe use some aluminum tape (most say they're good to 200 deg F).


----------



## IcedEarth

Hey, what is the highest i should take the SB, NB and HT voltage to on this board?

I have a desk fan blowing over it that keeps the mobo temp at 32C.....so i don't think cooling will be a problem.


----------



## matthewrsx

BTW, E6750 now available at newegg for $210 USD. Wow!


----------



## SA3L

I just want to say that the OCZ XTC ram cooler fits on this board, but it is pretty big so you can only use one of the pci-ex 16. http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...ocz_xtc_cooler


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SA3L* 
I just want to say that the OCZ XTC ram cooler fits on this board, but it is pretty big so you can only use one of the pci-ex 16. http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...ocz_xtc_cooler

No, you can use both x16 slots. They give you flat-head screws in the packaging for the XTC memory cooler so that you can use a GPU in the top-most slot.


----------



## Magi

I am wondering if this has occurred for anyone else. I have my memory currently running in unlinked mode at 850 4-4-48 1T. Now I go and raise it to 900mhz and in the post screen it reports 850mhz 4-4-8-1T. Once windows boots up and I pull up Everest I get the same reading.

I reboot change mem speed to 910mhz and in the post it comes up as 907mhz with the correct timings. I am wondering if this is caused by a strap setting? Is anyone else experiencing this? Just wondering as the mem is suppose to run unlinked from the FSB in this mode.

My current settings are:
FSB 1700 (425)
Vcore 1.5187
NB 1.50
SB 1.5
1.2HT 1.3
VTT 1.55 (1.63 Everest Reading)


----------



## silentsun

Hey Guys I have been reading up on this thread for sometime. And now I am OCing my rig. But I'm having some problems and would like to see if any one can help. My specs are

Windows XP
Mobo Asus P5N32-E
CPU E6600
RAM Patriot DDR2 2x2 (4gigs)
GPU 8800GTS 340Mb

I am on the new Bios for this bored and you guys have been saying that you can OC with a little less Vocre.

Right know my rig is at 375x9 (My FSB is at 1500Mhz and on page 12 of this form you said that it will be fine at a Vcore setting of 1.4 But that is not the case for me.

My Voltage is at

Vcore =1.5062 - Mem=2.0 - 1.2VHT=1.5 - NB Core=1.55 - SB Core=1.55
and CPU VTT is at 1.55

I cant get orthos to run past 9min whith these settings. I feel like my Vcore is way higher then it should be with these settings... what do you guys think?


----------



## Magi

Welcome to the forum silentsun. It will be easier to help if you would enter your system specs under edit profile.

I would recommend lower the 1.2HT voltage to 1.3 to 1.35 and lower your NB voltage to 1.4 Also what temperatures does your system report during the time orthos is running for the cpu and mb?

Are you running any active cooling on the chipsets? It is very important that active cooling is provided for the NB & SB chipset when overclocking as these chipsets run very hot. Robilar and several other experts on this board will renforce that point quickly.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magi* 
I am wondering if this has occurred for anyone else. I have my memory currently running in unlinked mode at 850 4-4-48 1T. Now I go and raise it to 900mhz and in the post screen it reports 850mhz 4-4-8-1T. Once windows boots up and I pull up Everest I get the same reading.

I reboot change mem speed to 910mhz and in the post it comes up as 907mhz with the correct timings. I am wondering if this is caused by a strap setting? Is anyone else experiencing this? Just wondering as the mem is suppose to run unlinked from the FSB in this mode.

My current settings are:
FSB 1700 (425)
Vcore 1.5187
NB 1.50
SB 1.5
1.2HT 1.3
VTT 1.55 (1.63 Everest Reading)

I believe the straps loosen timings on the northbridge; they don't mess with the RAM frequency, so that wouldn't be the cause.

I am not sure why you wouldn't get the same BIOS readings unless you didn't save the configuration the first time so it booted the old settings.


----------



## Magi

Hi stargate,

Thanks for replying. Made sure that I hit F10 upon exiting and other settings save. It is really weird. It is almost like it is running a divider on the ram even though it is in unlinked mode.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magi*


Hi stargate,

Thanks for replying. Made sure that I hit F10 upon exiting and other settings save. It is really weird. It is almost like it is running a divider on the ram even though it is in unlinked mode.


Do you have anything set to "Auto"? Most recent BIOS update?


----------



## silentsun

thanx Magi glad to be here. First my temps are fine, I have plenty of air moving through my case. When I had it OCed to 3.3 and ran orthos I was hitting a max of 45C on both cores and my Mobo temp was at 35C. I still have the original chipset cooling from Asus but I have added Artic Sliver 5 and a fan to the NB which moves some of that heat.

Thanks for the tip I did just add my sytem specs.

Im not sure why it feels like my system asks for more Voltage when Im reading on this fourm that others are running a higher OC with lower Voltage


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magi*


I am wondering if this has occurred for anyone else. I have my memory currently running in unlinked mode at 850 4-4-48 1T. Now I go and raise it to 900mhz and in the post screen it reports 850mhz 4-4-8-1T. Once windows boots up and I pull up Everest I get the same reading.

I reboot change mem speed to 910mhz and in the post it comes up as 907mhz with the correct timings. I am wondering if this is caused by a strap setting? Is anyone else experiencing this? Just wondering as the mem is suppose to run unlinked from the FSB in this mode.

My current settings are:
FSB 1700 (425)
Vcore 1.5187
NB 1.50
SB 1.5
1.2HT 1.3
VTT 1.55 (1.63 Everest Reading)


Not all memspeeds are available. I don't know why, I would suggest strapping.
When adjusting in the BIOS, if you enter the speed manually it should display what it will POST at when you hit the enter key. When using the + and - keys to adjust, hit the enter key twice and it should then display what it will POST at.


----------



## stargate125645

Robilar, I think you should clarify that the X-Fi sound cards will create clearence issues with _secondary_ or _after-market_ cooling. It works perfectly fine with the default cooler. Right now you just state the following in bold:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*

The Creative X-FI Gamer is 157mm long and will create clearance issues with SB cooling.


Not a big deal, but it is a bit misleading to someone who doesn't read the whole thing (and we know there are plenty of people who don't).

Also, ASUS Tech support says to put RAM sticks in the third slot from the CPU, not the nearest one, if you are going to load up the system with just one stick to set BIOS settings. At least one set of RAM modules that I have used would only work if the single stick were placed in the third slot. Right now you state to put it in the DIMM slot nearest the CPU.

Finally, what exactly is the 1.2HT voltage setting for?


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SA3L*


I just want to say that the OCZ XTC ram cooler fits on this board, but it is pretty big so you can only use one of the pci-ex 16. http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...ocz_xtc_cooler


It can be done you may need to use a bit of plastic to stop contact with the top card but if is done right you don't have to.
You can see in my gallery pic's


----------



## USlatin

I want that RAM cooler so bad,









Hey guys, is there anyone out here that already Hard Modded their board?


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Not all memspeeds are available. I don't know why, I would suggest strapping.
When adjusting in the BIOS, if you enter the speed manually it should display what it will POST at when you hit the enter key. When using the + and - keys to adjust, hit the enter key twice and it should then display what it will POST at.



The reason for this is that this board it not truly unlinked you are still bound by dividers. You can enter what ever number you want and it will round down to the closet divider.


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I want that RAM cooler so bad,









Hey guys, is there anyone out here that already Hard Modded their board?


I haven't had time and I am waiting on a E6850 and Apogee GTX so i might do it when they come in. Been waiting 2 weeks (e6850) now but i get to chose the week# when they do come in (thats if they are not all the same)


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *charger265*


I haven't had time and I am waiting on a E6850 and Apogee GTX so i might do it when they come in. Been waiting 2 weeks (e6850) now but i get to chose the week# when they do come in (thats if they are not all the same)










are you gonna do the soldering yourself?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *charger265*


I haven't had time and I am waiting on a E6850 and Apogee GTX so i might do it when they come in. Been waiting 2 weeks (e6850) now but i get to chose the week# when they do come in (thats if they are not all the same)










Link to the better weeks?
Should have mine this week. e6850 that is


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


are you gonna do the soldering yourself?


Yea









You can have a look at the job I did on both 88's in my gallery


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Link to the better weeks?
Should have mine this week. e6850 that is










I haven't found one as yet







but I will pick one in the early to mid week range.
I am applying the theory of the weeks of the e6600 they slowly worked there way up to week 28 being the best then weaned off after that.
I guess its just pot luck....


----------



## alexisd

6850 comming here too,look like a great chip.


----------



## USlatin

Q6600 G0's are hitting MoBos already... people have gambled and gotten lucky already... Tank says may ship as soon as 8/6... we'll all be trying out our new outfits at the same time hahah...

Alex, you have a pretty extreme setup, have you considered hard modding the 680?


----------



## alexisd

Yes planing in mod the board soon.My E6850 comming this friday,code L7220A497,SLA9U from club IT,if you ask the code or steeping they told you.Was only 4 left when i order mine.Keep you posted soon.


----------



## USlatin

hey Alex, who will solder yours?

I am looking for someone to do mine...


----------



## silentsun

Hey guys,

I was just reading the thread what do you guys mean by Hard moding the mobo?
Any links?


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *silentsun* 
Hey guys,

I was just reading the thread what do you guys mean by Hard moding the mobo?
Any links?

Read the last couple of posts. They are referring to "volt modding" the motherboard, bypassing resistors in order to be able to supply more voltage to a specific component on the motherboard.


----------



## USlatin

Here: http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...failure-6.html


----------



## Robilar

Its not supplying more voltage. Its supplying consistent voltage under load. vdroop means that the voltage supplied components like the cpu decreases in inverse proportion to the amount of load the components are under. voltage and vdroop mods reduce the resistance between the voltage bearing capactitors and (usually) allow a constant voltage flow regardless of usage.

Thats why when you run an overclocked processor for example, it may boot into windows and run fine. But when you stress it (With orthos or games) it will crash. Under low usage the vcore can match the overclocked processors' needs. When you ramp up usage, however, the vcore supplied drops and is insufficient to handle the processor speed.

The other good thing about the mods is that you get a temp decrease as you usually have to overcompensate with voltage to take into consideration the spikes in voltage (push it really high to compensate when it drops really low). With constant voltage, the required vcore is less overall (giving lower temps and often slightly higher overclocks).

these processes do shorten the lifespan of the motherboard capacitors though.


----------



## charger265

This is the mod

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=134100


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


hey Alex, who will solder yours?

I am looking for someone to do mine...


I may go for the pencil one first.I volt mod gpu in the past with some nice results.My chip is comming friday and ready to test saturday.


----------



## USlatin

I thought we were talking about the hard mod to allow for higher FSB's on Quads which I linked to Robilar.

I will try the pencil mod soon... but the one I will really need is the hard mod so I have a chance to get 3.6GHz as opposed to only 2.9GHz... with four cores that's a lot of power to be had... otherwise I may have to consider an "upgrade" to a P5K... which I am really against doing since I love this board...

Cool Alex, hope u go high!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


I may go for the pencil one first.I volt mod gpu in the past with some nice results.My chip is comming friday and ready to test saturday.










I tried the pencil mod yesterday alex. Was very happy with the results.
Displayed voltage is very close to what is set in BIOS and vdroop at some voltages is unmeasurable








At my 24/7 I went from 1.4125 down to 1.3625, I was getting around a .04 vdroop before.
This lowered temps at idle and load by about 3Â°

p.s. my e6850 is scheduled for this Friday delivery


----------



## Akatsuki No Tobi

What South Bridge cooling would be able to fit with 2x 8800s and an X-Fi card? And is South Bridge cooling mandatory for high overclocks?


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Akatsuki No Tobi*


What South Bridge cooling would be able to fit with 2x 8800s and an X-Fi card? And is South Bridge cooling mandatory for high overclocks?


A lot of people will tell you that it is, but some jerry-rigging of a fan blowing on the stock chipset HS system will do better than you think. I have not had my overclock high enough to say for sure, but I know my motherboard temperatures are rather low since I have the 25cm fan blowing onto it.


----------



## Akatsuki No Tobi

I guess I'll just try to see if North Bridge cooling will be good enough. I can't seem to go past 2.61 GHz when I should be hitting at least 3.2ish with my lapped Thermalright Ultra.


----------



## USlatin

I am about to try Litlratt's setup for SB... Evercool which fits on his rig after a simple snipping of three or four of the tiny cooler's fins... look on his gallery

Guys, with the Q6600 G0 reports of 3.6 and HIGHER (up to 3.72GHz on AIR!) I think we need to take the hard mod seriously... unless the 1333 support did in fact fix the low FSB for Quads problem... which makes me wonder... has anyone read about or tried themselves OC'ing a Quad with the 1333 friendly BIOS?


----------



## rsnt

I'm going to this a try on the southbridge and see how it works out, I think I won't have a problem fitting that WITH something occupying the middle PCI slot.

I got the OCZ PC8500 SLI kit today too







!!!! An E6850 is the LAST STEP!!! I'm so close lol


----------



## USlatin

if that thing fits it should be a great cooler... I mean the air is forced through the HS... nice over for the fan... hadn't seen it before


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsnt* 
I'm going to this a try on the southbridge and see how it works out, I think I won't have a problem fitting that WITH something occupying the middle PCI slot.

How would you not? It's taller than the default HS.


----------



## USlatin

ohhh... I missread thanks stargate... if you have something on the middle slit there is no way you'll fit it... no way at all... go with the Evercool... you can buy them for less than $10 and they are overkill in terms of cooling hability so a great way to go so long as you either like the blue + red lights or rip them out like I did before when I used one on my DS3's NB... noise-wise they are audible but I don't theink you would hear them over 110CMF 120mm or perhaps even over your 8800 series fans if set to 100%... I also had a 7600GT which sounded mich louder than the Evercool if set at 100% so you really can't go wrong with the evercool IMHO


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
if that thing fits it should be a great cooler... I mean the air is forced through the HS... nice over for the fan... hadn't seen it before

I should get it in a couple of days (I live in Canada), I shall report as soon as I get it


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stargate125645* 
How would you not? It's taller than the default HS.

It should squeeze between two GTX's in SLi.


----------



## USlatin

hey rsnt, I misread your posr and re-edited mine, take a look... I am sure you will not be able to fit it if you have the X-Fi on that slot...
but if the X-Fi were not there I thin you might fit it between the GTS without a problem... just ask SLI'ers for the measure of clearance first


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsnt* 
It should squeeze between two GTX's in SLi.

But not with an X-Fi in the middle PCI slot.


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
hey rsnt, I misread your posr and re-edited mine, take a look... I am sure you will not be able to fit it if you have the X-Fi on that slot...
but if the X-Fi were not there I thin you might fit it between the GTS without a problem... just ask SLI'ers for the measure of clearance first

The X-Fi WILL create issues unless you squeeze it just a little behind one of long posts.

But I mean it's all based on visuals right now so I'll wait till I get it and see for myself.


----------



## alexisd

OK.I installed my new E6850,steeping and code L720A497,SLA9U=G0,This thing is amazing.All stock,no problems in the installation.Temps way low,even is all stock=no for too long







I did the vcore mod and the vdrop mod the pencil one and so far so good.Keep everyone posted.And some benches soon.


----------



## Robilar

Nice Alex! Thats going to be a heck of a chip. I'm personally planning on getting the QX6850 once I find a distributor here that has it in stock


----------



## Robilar

Here's a solution for you X-FI owners that want SLI and aftermarket cooling on the North and Southbridge chipsets:

Behold the $12 Vantec Iceberq!!

Yes, the sound card is not an X-FI but I positioned it in the centre slot for measurement purposes and even if its longer there is no clearance issue. I don't recommend this fan for the northbridge as its really just a copper plate and a small fan (5000 RPM mind you) but the SB doesn't get as hot regardless.


----------



## USlatin

OMgosh! Alex! 3.0GHz and 12-15C?!?!? wooooooot! that is completely ridic! clup 4.0GHz here he comes!

Robilar I can see the benefit of that cooler over the Evercool now... at first I thought why since the Evecool looks to be better, but with that one there is no need to cut anything and it should handle SB temps no prob


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


OMgosh! Alex! 3.0GHz and 12-15C?!?!? wooooooot! that is completely ridic! clup 4.0GHz here he comes!

Robilar I can see the benefit of that cooler over the Evercool now... at first I thought why since the Evecool looks to be better, but with that one there is no need to cut anything and it should handle SB temps no prob


Don't get so excited about the temps. First off there is a bug with the new chips and proper temp reporting. secondly even with Alex using a really top end air cooler there is no way physics can make the cpu run below ambient.

Even so, the new GO chips should run much cooler than the older steppings.


----------



## USlatin

hehe... lower than ambient, yea, sorry I'm rushing and trying to read up fast cause I got to go...


----------



## alexisd

Robilar is rigth.And i just start to oc this chip.Would see how far goes.I did the pencil mod,and so far look fine to me.I have a multimeter and,im still working on it.But @ least in sofware look fine.


----------



## alexisd

Some little test @4ghz,6850 piece of cake.But make stable is different ball game.But working on it.


----------



## matthewrsx

Does anyone think attaching a temperature sensor between the NB and the heatsink is a bad idea?


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *matthewrsx*


Does anyone think attaching a temperature sensor between the NB and the heatsink is a bad idea?


No, but you already have a built in thermal probe there so why would you need it?

I imagine it hurts the heat transfer a little bit, but not much.


----------



## matthewrsx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stargate125645* 
No, but you already have a built in thermal probe there so why would you need it?

I imagine it hurts the heat transfer a little bit, but not much.

I thought there was discussion on here that there was not a dedicated sensor on the Northbridge? If there is, then why are people relying on the finger test to see whether the NB is running hot?


----------



## rsnt

new bios?

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...20SLI/1203.zip


----------



## Akatsuki No Tobi

I managed to fit an Extreme Spirit II on my South Bridge even though there's an XtremeGamer in the middle PCI slot. It is such a tight fit and took me an hour to fit it perfectly.

The South Bridge core is pretty sturdy right? I'm just worried that I might have accidentally crushed it when I was fiddling around with the Espirit II.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Akatsuki No Tobi*


I managed to fit an Extreme Spirit II on my South Bridge even though there's an XtremeGamer in the middle PCI slot. It is such a tight fit and took me an hour to fit it perfectly.

The South Bridge core is pretty sturdy right? I'm just worried that I might have accidentally crushed it when I was fiddling around with the Espirit II.


If I am not mistaken, there is an IHS above the southbridge to avoid such an incident.


----------



## Robilar

The 1203 bios is now available at the Asus FTP site (I have a link in the guide on page 1). No notes are available with it.


----------



## USlatin

1203? hummm... where did u find it? Asus... well great then... that will be a quick release! I hope they fixed my problem!!!

not trying it though... not updating BIOS till I get the Quad... then I'll just take two days off and work on nothing but flashing lapping building wiring and OC'ing


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
1203? hummm... where did u find it? Asus... well great then... that will be a quick release! I hope they fixed my problem!!!

not trying it though... not updating BIOS till I get the Quad... then I'll just take two days off and work on nothing but flashing lapping building wiring and OC'ing

Don't forget sleeving!


----------



## USlatin

hahaha I got my cables good to go actually... I electrical-taped the crap out of them and now they are hard and in place for my setup... I won't be doing any wiring actually.... not till I get a dremmel and route all my cables through the panel behind the mobo... it would be like a 6hs job but it would make for slightly better airflow and allow me to finally have a clean case...

look at my home-made sleeving in my gallery


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
hahaha I got my cables good to go actually... I electrical-taped the crap out of them and now they are hard and in place for my setup... I won't be doing any wiring actually.... not till I get a dremmel and route all my cables through the panel behind the mobo... it would be like a 6hs job but it would make for slightly better airflow and allow me to finally have a clean case...

look at my home-made sleeving in my gallery

Yeah, I did some sleeving myself as well. The results are very satisfying! (Especially when it cleans up fan controller wires...)


----------



## Mhill2029

1203!?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*


1203!?


Who's going to guinea pig the 1203s?


----------



## Litlratt

OK OK I did it. Flashed to the 1203.
Working at same settings as 1201.
New hardware wizard found pci to pci bridge on first boot after flash.


----------



## rsnt

Where's Robliar to tell us whats different with this version


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsnt*


Where's Robliar to tell us whats different with this version










No mention of what's fixed on this version. ~sigh~

We need a Quad Core owner to test really....although i doubt it will fix anything substantial.

Just noticed that according to an Asus table listing 45nm supported motherboards, the Striker Extreme mentions 1203 or higher. And the P5N32-E SLI 680i mentions 1103 or higher. My guess is this Bios isn't for our board at all.

45nm Support Table http://event.asus.com/mb/45nm/


----------



## USlatin

yes, Mhill is right... that is the only problem per se so we need a Quad tested... I will as soon as I get mine but I'd love to know now!

Mhill... go for it... just store ur settings and use a different xp install on a separate HDD...

come on dude, plz!


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


yes, Mhill is right... that is the only problem per se so we need a Quad tested... I will as soon as I get mine but I'd love to know now!

Mhill... go for it... just store ur settings and use a different xp install on a separate HDD...

come on dude, plz!










Not after reading that 45nm support table i won't be.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*


No mention of what's fixed on this version. ~sigh~

We need a Quad Core owner to test really....although i doubt it will fix anything substantial.

Just noticed that according to an Asus table listing 45nm supported motherboards, the Striker Extreme mentions 1203 or higher. And the P5N32-E SLI 680i mentions 1103 or higher. My guess is this Bios isn't for our board at all.

45nm Support Table http://event.asus.com/mb/45nm/


I got it from the ftp site and EZ flash recognized it, though I'm not sure the latter matters.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*


Not after reading that 45nm support table i won't be.


what do you mean?
I'm confused


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


what do you mean?
I'm confused


Me too as Asus website does not list a 1203 BIOS for the Striker Extreme.


----------



## t4ct1c47

As far as I'm aware, the 1203 version simply includes more memory compatibility aswell as bringing back the MCP <-> SPP option, just like the 1201 beta.


----------



## USlatin

dang... we need to convince Hill to try these BIOS...


----------



## Robilar

I've already loaded it and am testing 1203 this evening.


----------



## alexisd

Any changes in the new bios?


----------



## Robilar

Not that I have seen yet. It will be interesting to see what kind of results I will get with my QX6850 (should have it in the next couple of weeks). They are also quad GO steppings as well.

http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...ufacture=Intel

NCIX has stock for $1180 but I'm trying to get it cheaper through my distributor contacts.

I only buy processors with unlocked multi's (got spoiled with my first AMD FX-57 and now my X6800 C2D)

I took my thermalright ultra extreme off until I get the new quad chip (I'm working on lapping it and added a second fan for push/pull)


----------



## alexisd

Thank's,nice chip you have comming







,im running orthos overnigth @ 3.9.Did some nice benches today @ 4ghz.But the temps readings are not too accurated.Hey Robilar you know the exact point to measure the vcore ,and the drop in this mobo?I have my multimeter.I did some dig but the picture is not clear.


----------



## USlatin

nice chip u have coming indeed Robilar... no need for modding your MoBo... just go high up on the multiplier and viola! lots of money though and that should depreciate rapidly too

Alex, nice clock... 3.9 is crazy high for every day stable... no real need for 4.0 since you are practically there but it would be nice to be able to run the round number day in and day out on air


----------



## madmax1436

thanks for all the info guys. got to 1550 fsb last nite for the first time. still using stock asus coolin so dont think get much higher, orthos ran all nite no probs temps were 52 load n27 idle. thinking bout getting aftermarket cooling for nb/sb then try again.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Thank's,nice chip you have comming







,im running orthos overnigth @ 3.9.Did some nice benches today @ 4ghz.But the temps readings are not too accurated.Hey Robilar you know the exact point to measure the vcore ,and the drop in this mobo?I have my multimeter.I did some dig but the picture is not clear.


I do actually. I have it in a pic somewhere. I'll find it and post it back here today.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *madmax1436*


thanks for all the info guys. got to 1550 fsb last nite for the first time. still using stock asus coolin so dont think get much higher, orthos ran all nite no probs temps were 52 load n27 idle. thinking bout getting aftermarket cooling for nb/sb then try again.


It will help if you add cooling on the chipsets. Not just for overclocking but long term stability as well.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


nice chip u have coming indeed Robilar... no need for modding your MoBo... just go high up on the multiplier and viola! lots of money though and that should depreciate rapidly too

Alex, nice clock... 3.9 is crazy high for every day stable... no real need for 4.0 since you are practically there but it would be nice to be able to run the round number day in and day out on air


I'm excited about the new chip. I also just found out one of the distributors I have a dealer account with will have the chip is stock August 3. My price : $1044. (Thats reseller pricing in Canadian dollars and of course being a dealer I don't pay PST only GST). Whats even better is they are a short drive from where I live so I won't have to ship it from NCIX across the country.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu..._13.html#sect0

Xbit labs did some initial overclocking tests with the chip (on a P35 board but with unlocked multi's my board will do just fine).

They got 3.55 with only 1.325 Vcore. Bumping the vcore to 1.45 let them hit 3.7 ghz. This is with stock cooling!

My thermalright ultra 120 extreme very much needed lapping. I didn't really look at the base when I got it but its definitely concave. I have a buddy with a metal shop that should be able to laser mill it for me (make it perfectly level and smooth in about 40 seconds). Then I just have to figure out how to mount the fans so that it doesn't look horribly ghetto.


----------



## Litlratt

Robilar:
Do you have any thoughts on the inaccurate temp readings for the e6850s?
It's like driving blind without some idea of where we're at


----------



## cognoscenti

My 6850 ticks along nicely at 450 FSB and 4Ghz

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=221794

6600 FTL...lol


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


My 6850 ticks along nicely at 450 FSB and 4Ghz

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=221794

6600 FTL...lol


Give us some voltages cog.


----------



## cognoscenti

1.47v seems the sweet spot so far.

and 4Ghz is a good number to stay at for a few air benches.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


1.47v seems the sweet spot so far.

and 4Ghz is a good number to stay at for a few air benches.


Must be nice.
At 4027 I can't even get into Windows with less than 1.57.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


I do actually. I have it in a pic somewhere. I'll find it and post it back here today.


You find the pic?I think we better off if measure the vcore,and volt's from the mobo.And no from software especially if we do any mod to the board.


----------



## mica3speedy

Well I've installed the zalman 9700 and it's been on for a couple weeks now. My temps have dropped roughly 5* idle and 9* under load. So now my idle temps are 44* and my load temps are 56* . I'm not too concerned about my load temps, but I see people posting idle temps in the 30's. I'm currently overclocked to 3ghz (300X10). Here are my voltages:
v.core=1.275
HT=auto
NB=auto
SB=auto
cpu vtt=1.55

Also in cpu-z it lists my voltage at 1.168. From everest my voltages are:
cpu core: 1.25
3.3b: 3.26
5v: 4.97
12v: 11.58
5v standby: 4.84
Under CPU Physical info:
Core Voltage 1.325 V
I/O Voltage 1.325 V

I have bios version 1103. Before going further, what should I do with my voltages?


----------



## alexisd

You can use the 1103 they work fine tor up dated your bios to 1201.If you update the bios set everything back to stock.Before you update.And im goin to give you my settings for a 3.5 rock solid with the 6700.
1400x10=3.5
vcore=1.562
1.2ht=1.40
nb=1.45
sb=1.5
cpuvtt=1.55
memory=2.25,4 4 4 4 2t @940mhz
That's is 12 hrs orthos stable.


----------



## SA3L

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stargate125645*


No, you can use both x16 slots. They give you flat-head screws in the packaging for the XTC memory cooler so that you can use a GPU in the top-most slot.


omg, how could I miss them







i saw them when i opened the box, and when I mounted i forgot about em, I looked for flat-heads. gah, feel so stupid!


----------



## rsnt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


My thermalright ultra 120 extreme very much needed lapping. I didn't really look at the base when I got it but its definitely concave. *I have a buddy with a metal shop that should be able to laser mill it for me* (make it perfectly level and smooth in about 40 seconds). Then I just have to figure out how to mount the fans so that it doesn't look horribly ghetto.


LOL spread the love man and gimme your friends number














I'm getting mine this week.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsnt* 
LOL spread the love man and gimme your friends number














I'm getting mine this week.

If he's ok with it (its not his shop) I'll hook you up. He works in Markham. I'll ask him when I speak with him Monday


----------



## rsnt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


If he's ok with it (its not his shop) I'll hook you up. He works in Markham. I'll ask him when I speak with him Monday










Owe Markham!







in that case don't worry about it, way too far of a drive


----------



## cognoscenti

1203 bios now, are we noticing any changes?

Cant say I have yet.


----------



## mica3speedy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


You can use the 1103 they work fine tor up dated your bios to 1201.If you update the bios set everything back to stock.Before you update.And im goin to give you my settings for a 3.5 rock solid with the 6700.
1400x10=3.5
vcore=1.562
1.2ht=1.40
nb=1.45
sb=1.5
cpuvtt=1.55
memory=2.25,4 4 4 4 2t @940mhz
That's is 12 hrs orthos stable.


I noticed you have SB=Jing ting, nb=spirit II for cooling. Since I still have stock cooling, what would you suggest? also what effect does ht, nb, and sb have on overclocking?


----------



## NCspecV81

anyone know if the dfi 680i has the same fsb wall? I saw one thread with it pushing a g0 q6600 to nearly 3.8ghz


----------



## USlatin

I also saw something about that board pushing higher, so not the same wall as this board's, but I don't think this is the thread for that subject


----------



## rsnt

I finally got me a digital cam! woot! too bad the SD card keeps giving me errors otherwise I woulda posted some pictures of what I have so far! I'm surely ordering the E6850 tomorrow *Prays for a good batch* and a video card for this rig and i'll be set in terms of parts. My case still needs the mods I want to do, so while that's being done im going to work without one and get everything ready till I get it back.

I know this is the best place to ask this but since its an SLi board I want some opinions... should I get one GTX or two GTS's for SLi?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsnt* 
I finally got me a digital cam! woot! too bad the SD card keeps giving me errors otherwise I woulda posted some pictures of what I have so far! I'm surely ordering the E6850 tomorrow *Prays for a good batch* and a video card for this rig and i'll be set in terms of parts. My case still needs the mods I want to do, so while that's being done im going to work without one and get everything ready till I get it back.

I know this is the best place to ask this but since its an SLi board I want some opinions... should I get one GTX or two GTS's for SLi?

SLI requires 2 cards. Yes get the GTX.


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
SLI requires 2 cards. Yes get the GTX.

so one GTX is better than two GTS's in SLi? ok thanks.


----------



## USlatin

yes but not so much because of performance since the two setups are somewhat equal... but because you'd have a free slot and possibilities to upgrade by simply purchasing the second GTX later whereas two GTS's make you sell to upgrade....

Also SLI can be a tad tricky to set up, not a bit point though, just mentioning it.


----------



## NCspecV81

2 gts's will thoroughly outperform a single gtx by far, but a single gtx allows another gtx in the future which should outperform 2 gts's in sli by far. =o)


----------



## USlatin

that depends on what you consider "by far" though.... I wouldn't say it is thaaat big of a difference


----------



## charger265

It is not that big a diff
17500 out of sli GTS Vs 18000 out of sli GTX 3Dmark 06







Orb Score








so for the extra money I don't think it is worth it....
Just my opinion....


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *charger265* 
It is not that big a diff
17500 out of sli GTS Vs 18000 out of sli GTX 3Dmark 06







Orb Score








so for the extra money I don't think it is worth it....
Just my opinion....

Sli'ed 320mb cards I think would fall off if you were running a 24" or 30" screen.

In my upgrade madness I have owned single GTS and sli GTS
Singl GTX and sli GTX
Single Ultra and sli Ultras


----------



## charger265

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
Sli'ed 320mb cards I think would fall off if you were running a 24" or 30" screen.

In my upgrade madness I have owned single GTS and sli GTS
Singl GTX and sli GTX
Single Ultra and sli Ultras

Yes it would....
And by a lot....
But I think the 640mb would do a lot better. Maybe not so good on the 30"
But then again if you have the money for a 30" monitor you would have the money for the GTX or ultra.....


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *charger265* 
But then again if you have the money for a 30" monitor you would have the money for the GTX or ultra.....

but so many here think sli GTXs and Ultras are a waste


----------



## charger265

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


but so many here think sli GTXs and Ultras are a waste










Yea, but I had to vmod and void warranty to get there.....
So when you think about it its not that much of a waste of money.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsnt*


I finally got me a digital cam! woot! too bad the SD card keeps giving me errors otherwise I woulda posted some pictures of what I have so far! I'm surely ordering the E6850 tomorrow *Prays for a good batch* and a video card for this rig and i'll be set in terms of parts. My case still needs the mods I want to do, so while that's being done im going to work without one and get everything ready till I get it back.

I know this is the best place to ask this but since its an SLi board I want some opinions... should I get one GTX or two GTS's for SLi?


I'd weigh in with one gtx. I have had a number of SLI'd rigs (including for awhile a pair of 8800gtx).

A safe rule of thumb is get the best single card you can afford with the option of adding a second for SLI later down the road. SLI is great and as mentioned above a pair of GTS in SLI will beat a single gtx but the upgrade path is then limited accordingly.

Despite Cogno's fascination, I personally feel the ultras are a waste of the extra money.


----------



## USlatin

the single GTS 640MB I own gives me 70fps on COD2 with my 24" 1920 x 1200

Robilar just agreed on the upgradeability factor being significant... I still thinkg single GTX is the best way....

Now if you are not going over 1680 x 1050 then there is no reason to go higher than one 640MB GTS cause sLIED those should be able to handle Crysis at that rez... hope u r taking your monitor rez and upgrade timeline for it into consideration


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I'd weigh in with one gtx. I have had a number of SLI'd rigs (including for awhile a pair of 8800gtx).

A safe rule of thumb is get the best single card you can afford with the option of adding a second for SLI later down the road. SLI is great and as mentioned above a pair of GTS in SLI will beat a single gtx but the upgrade path is then limited accordingly.

Despite Cogno's fascination, I personally feel the ultras are a waste of the extra money.

Done, everyone has a point which is the exact same one you've made. To top that infonec has a deal on the BFG 8800GTX OC for $100 off regular price. I'm picking one tomorrow + my E6850




























to make things even better I got the TR extreme today and boy, that thing is a beast.

Quick question, I got the Corsair HX-620 as you suggested a long while back, I wont have a problem running two GTX's in SLi with it, will i?


----------



## Robilar

The corsair is a great power supply but it may be strained handling a pair of gtx (one will be fine of course).

Try the power supply calculator to see what it recommends.


----------



## USlatin

Here's the link for it 
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/p...ulatorlite.jsp


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Here's the link for it
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/p...ulatorlite.jsp

I used that and the recommended was 504w so I should be good. Anyway, I got the CPU and the GTX today. My buddy is coming over to put this thing together. I'm not sure which BIOS version to use though. Also, am I going to need the latest chipset drivers? I'll download that from nvidia's website anyway. Wish me luck







pix will follow later.


----------



## Robilar

Use 1203. It has all the various enhancements from prior versions and thus far has been very stable.


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Use 1203. It has all the various enhancements from prior versions and thus far has been very stable.

Rgr that! thank god your here to confirm it. I downloaded the last two just in case. Question, do I flash BIOS THEN change the memory voltage to make sure it's the correct value or the other way around?


----------



## t4ct1c47

I've been haveing some power down issues with my board recently. I'm unsure if it's the 1201 and 1203 BIOS's but my system doesn't completely turn off when I shut down, and downright refuses to POST when I restart.

It could just be my video card drivers as I'm useing Vista x64. I was useing 158.22 for a long time and had issues with the display driver haveing to recover when I switched to 162.22. I'm on the good old 158.45 beta's now, though I think I'll try downgradeing back to 158.22 before reflashing back to 1103.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsnt* 
Rgr that! thank god your here to confirm it. I downloaded the last two just in case. Question, do I flash BIOS THEN change the memory voltage to make sure it's the correct value or the other way around?

Put everything back to default before you flash a BIOS

Flashing is nothing but trouble if everything isn't at default









Also i have read plenty of reviews about the Corsair 620w

That thing is a beast. It was powering a Q6600 oc'ed at 3Ghz with a pair of 8800 GTX's

So yes it can handle GTX sli


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IcedEarth* 
Put everything back to default before you flash a BIOS

Flashing is nothing but trouble if everything isn't at default









Also i have read plenty of reviews about the Corsair 620w

That thing is a beast. It was powering a Q6600 oc'ed at 3Ghz with a pair of 8800 GTX's

So yes it can handle GTX sli









I could just about kiss you right now







But I'm straight sooo... lol

Default it is then. I'll flash first before I touch any settings. God I feel like a little kid in a candy store about now. lol


----------



## Treatment X

Can't get past 350FSB, these mods are just vdroop/vcore mods, won't help the ~350FSB wall right? =|


----------



## USlatin

I replied on the other thread dedicated to the subject... that is the right thread with all the info you need... Welcome to OCN!

hey, by the way, fill in your system specs so we know what mobo, chip and all else you have for future discussions


----------



## Robilar

Yes specs would help. 350 FSB is that with a quad?


----------



## USlatin

yea I think he has a Q66 and our board... he found the Quad FSB failure thread so he is in the two threads he need









http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ailure-11.html

BTW I can't remember where but there is a guy with a Q6600 G0 who on his first attempts only got to 3.2... I tried directing him to this thread for the other settings but I am sure he allready found it... he could be the first glimpse of what happens with G0 Quads and out board


----------



## Treatment X

Yeah, 350FSB with a G0 Q6600 (I just edited my system specs).

Thanks for the welcome! This board's been pretty friendly (from all the reading I've done)

Edit: Update, I updated to 1203, now I'm walled at 355FSB (*sarcastic* weeeeeeeeeeeeeee)


----------



## USlatin

hahahah hey so there IS a performance increase from going to 1203 hehehe...

thanks for joining and posting about the Q66G0, funny system name and nice rig!


----------



## Mhill2029

Pfff


----------



## rsnt

Yes! I finally did it! My first C2D system and I have to say, I'm very impressed. This was the smoothest installation I went through in my entire life (software wise).

Installing the coolers proved to be a sweat breaker because I had to be sure I had enough clearance for everything. As you'll see in the pictures bellow, the Evercool on the southbridge turned out to be bigger than I thought, I cant even install the GTX in the first PCI-E nor the creative, so thats gotta go I guess.

I hooked everything up and fired it up, expecting a ton of problems (like always







) but it posted, I jumped into BIOS right away and flashed. One time and it was up again, went into BIOS and changed the vdimm to 2.2 (Yes, I know it's 2.3 but I couldn't remember and I forgot to check before I started) But I mean even though it was on auto, it booted fine so that was a relief.

I started to install XP and after a while, I noticed the GTX to be the one with the most heat, then the south and north bridges (That's with aftermarket cooling) I don't know, I may have installed them improperly so I may have to reseat them, including the TR extreme. Speaking of which, CPU temp in BIOS was 33c idle, to me that wasn't good, maybe it's because I'm doing an open air installation with a bad fan, and my room was hot.

Anyway I guess that's all for now, I'm going to install drivers and do some tweaking tomorrow, plus i gotta partition the new drive and hook it up to my old one to transfer files. Oh and, I think I overdid the AS5 application and did a horrible job at it too







I'll add later, I'm off to bed thats enough for one day.


















Click to see the rest.

http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y63...t=e083bafd.jpg
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y63...t=27229c40.jpg
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y63...t=6f693a49.jpg
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y63...t=29bc8f13.jpg
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y63...t=99463c8e.jpg
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y63...t=33ddf83d.jpg
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y63...t=876d7ec7.jpg
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y63...t=ababe694.jpg


----------



## Mhill2029

Man, that's a nice rig.....don't like the look of that SB cooler though, i'd have gone with another Spirit II myself.

Only the one GTX? Cheapscate lol


----------



## rsnt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*


Man, that's a nice rig.....don't like the look of that NB cooler though, i'd have gone with another Spirit II myself.

Only the one GTX? Cheapscate lol


LOL soon dude, soon I'll get another one. I took the plunge on this one because it was $100 OFF!!!!!! $529, I just couldn't pass it. Btw, that's an E6850 slapped there so who's the Cheascate!









And yes, that southbridge cooler is getting off tomorrow.


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsnt*


LOL soon dude, soon I'll get another one. I took the plunge on this one because it was $100 OFF!!!!!! $529, I just couldn't pass it. Btw, that's an E6850 slapped there so who's the Cheascate!









And yes, that southbridge cooler is getting off tomorrow.


The E6850 is a great CPU, but i went Quad to be sure that i can run Crysis as well as possible


----------



## Treatment X

*applaud* Very nice. Question though, I thought I saw a Corsair HX620W, which is what I have. Could it handle SLI in the future?


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


*applaud* Very nice. Question though, I thought I saw a Corsair HX620W, which is what I have. Could it handle SLI in the future?


Yes that can run SLI GTX's and a Quad no problem. It's one of the most amazing and respected PSU's at the moment for it's capabilities.

Also, How is 9x334.5 3.2Ghz? It's 3.1Ghz lol


----------



## rsnt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


*applaud* Very nice. Question though, I thought I saw a Corsair HX620W, which is what I have. Could it handle SLI in the future?


Yep. I used this to make sure it was enough.


----------



## Treatment X

lol you're right. I was on the 1103 BIOS, walled me in. Then I got on the 1203 BIOS, and it walled me at 360 instead of 350. lol anyway, will correct it.

Edit : I tried that calculator. Only works if I only have 2 HD's =| hmmmm... guess I'll have to invest in that Thermaltake W0099 Aux Power


----------



## rsnt

I forgot to mention, my CPU week is 19B. I hope it's not a bad week, I was hoping for a 21A or 22A because those seemed to have good results. Either way my goal is to get it running at 3.6 or 3.8 24/7.


----------



## Robilar

Good work!

Familiar looking setup! (And yes the silverstone fan is on backwards in this pic. I was getting irritated at the mounting clips on the extreme banging into the nb cooler)

I'm back to my Zalman for now until I get the thermalright laser milled by my buddy.

You'll get some great results with that setup.

That southbridge cooler will cause some serious mounting problems with 8800gtx though.

The cooler on the other pic (its a vantec iceberq) works fine with all sound cards and sli gtx without clearance issues. Only problem is the thing is bloody loud.


----------



## Treatment X

G0 Q6600, on P5N32-E SLI 680i... I JUST broke the 360FSB wall 30 minutes ago, and has been prime stable... I didn't do ANYTHING different, don't know why it's working now. Thought I'd share the news ASAP

56k warning
http://img105.imageshack.us/my.php?i...bstablezn5.jpg


----------



## Treatment X

Update for G0 Q6600 on P5N32-E SLI

Ok, I figured it out. BIOS 1203 clocked better, my wall is now at 375FSB... I could do 372FSB STABLE, with GREAT idle and load temps.

screenshot of load (56k warning)
http://img263.imageshack.us/my.php?i...bstablejo9.jpg

screenshot of idle (56k warning) 
http://img263.imageshack.us/my.php?i...bleidlejq2.jpg


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


I'm back to my Zalman for now until I get the thermalright laser milled by my buddy.



Hey Rob,

Was your zalman very concave?
I think mine was not very flat and I had a few temp issues with it.

The ifx-14 seems to have done the trick for now and temps are better but I might have my first go at lapping the Zalman now since its surplus.


----------



## rsnt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Good work!

Familiar looking setup! (And yes the silverstone fan is on backwards in this pic. I was getting irritated at the mounting clips on the extreme banging into the nb cooler)

I'm back to my Zalman for now until I get the thermalright laser milled by my buddy.

You'll get some great results with that setup.

That southbridge cooler will cause some serious mounting problems with 8800gtx though.

The cooler on the other pic (its a vantec iceberq) works fine with all sound cards and sli gtx without clearance issues. Only problem is the thing is bloody loud.


Thank you! All thanks to your wonderful guide and everyone helping on this board. But I'm far from done yet









I've had some problem with the fan clips too but I managed to get in there







Now I'm going to face more challenges which brings me to a quick question for everyone:

What would I possibly need in terms of overclocking, monitoring, stressing, etc... software? i.e. CPU-Z, Prime95, Orthos, CoreTemp... I have a whole bunch of them now but I wanna know what are the most important ones to have right now.


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


Update for G0 Q6600 on P5N32-E SLI

Ok, I figured it out. BIOS 1203 clocked better, my wall is now at 375FSB... I could do 372FSB STABLE, with GREAT idle and load temps.

screenshot of load (56k warning)
http://img263.imageshack.us/my.php?i...bstablejo9.jpg

screenshot of idle (56k warning) 
http://img263.imageshack.us/my.php?i...bleidlejq2.jpg


I can't see how there would be a difference between G0 and B3 with regard to FSB walls. The architecture is the same...

I can do 3.2Ghz fine, and is 3DMark06 stable. Although Orthos small FFT's get my temps up to around 70c, i'm starting to think my Zalman 9700 is a pile of *CENSORED* afterall


----------



## Treatment X

B3 vs G0 overclocking would be the same on this ******ed board, cept for temps i believe. (yes I'm bitter) lol


----------



## NCspecV81

well I can post at 3.51ghz - make it almost into windows on this poopy pile of a quad overclocking board before it either locks or crashes. I can get into windows and run prime95 for 3hrs at 3.37ghz. Here in about 2hrs I will have results of the revised evga 680i board.


----------



## USlatin

I may sound like a scratched disk but:

I am hoping this small FSB increase on 1203 means they can control the needed voltages such as GTL and we might therefor see full Q FSB's in the future


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*


i'm starting to think my Zalman 9700 is a pile of *CENSORED* afterall


I found the same thing after replacing my 9700....

Lapping the 9700 may be a good idea?


----------



## t4ct1c47

'Tis a sad day for me today. (Well not quite). I've flogged one of my 8800GTS cards as G80 SLi is a little overkill for the games I play, plus I'm a skinters Uni student. One bit of good news is that it appears that my shut-down problems were being caused by SLi being used on the latest 162.22 Forceware drivers, so the issue definately wasn't down to the new 1203 BIOS.


----------



## USlatin

interesting... I too find it hard to justify anything higher than my 640MB... till Crysis gets here







by then 8900's might be out and GTS will drop ::hopes::


----------



## Treatment X

Crysis in 1 month, me have it preordered, mu hahahah


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Hey Rob,

Was your zalman very concave?
I think mine was not very flat and I had a few temp issues with it.

The ifx-14 seems to have done the trick for now and temps are better but I might have my first go at lapping the Zalman now since its surplus.


Yes cog, I had to lap mine.

Lapping it made a 5C difference. Its funny because the really polished finish on the base leads you to believe its level. Do the sheet of glass test. It was more crooked than an american politician.


----------



## mica3speedy

I may have to lap mine as well. Granted I don't think my case airflow is the best. My current temps with a overclock of 3ghz are 44 idle, 56 under orthos load. Robilar, do you remember what your temps were with the zalman?


----------



## alexisd

You can move some fans,around to see if is any change.And lapping the cpu help.


----------



## mica3speedy

seeing that I have only two fans, 1 80mm in front pushing air in, and 1 120mm in back pushing air out. These aren't the greatest fans either; they are the ones that came with the case. I just ordered a silverstone 120mm that I'm going to add to the front. Hopefully that will help. I wasn't really planning on lapping, a little nervous about doing it.


----------



## alexisd

Good idea with the extra fan.I think that your case don't have good airflow.Maybe you can mod a little bit too.Try to use a mesh in the side panel.And use zipties for your cables too.My 6700ES hit the 3.5 rock solid with this board,but need 1.562 volt's to get there.


----------



## mica3speedy

I figure the silverstone will solve any airflow problems I have (up to 106cfm).


----------



## Anubis_offline

Hello guys, pleas, pleas, pleas can you post little bite less.
It took my 2 whole days to get to this page, mine eyes hurt (little less new very nice 226bw) and mine head is still processing all the data!
Gonna try the new bios 1203 and hoping I will break the 389fsb, I am now running at 3.4 mem 4-4-4-5 T1 think is not bad in 3DM06 80p less then when I was running 3.6 mem 4-4-4-12 T1.
Lapping the CPU and Tuniq tower will in improve contact between the two and give better cooling?
Never thought about that, the only thing I lapped was wooden boat that's no fun.
Gonna try it with care of course&#8230;.another guide "lapping " , aaaaaaa the saga continues!
Tomorrow will try the new E6750 on P5N32-E-sli plus, lets hoop of more luck I have made a sacrifice to the oc god's and burned mine old A8N32-sli


----------



## Treatment X

lol, to be honest, I was not held back by a wall with my E6700 when I was using this board. I was only held back when I was using my new Q6600.. at 360FSB, ish.


----------



## rsnt

I'm officially on the new rig w00000000000000t!!!! I'm just doing the usual of installing updates and the necessary software! I have tons of pix I'll try to upload some later tonight.


----------



## CpLRusty

Good work Robilar... I've been using your information since I got my P5N32E-SLI in March. Rep+!


----------



## rsnt

I'm running orthos testing 3.6ghz on my E6850.

My first manual overclock ever







lol

All voltages on Auto except for CPU VTT @ 1.55v
Here's an idle screenshot:










will follow with 15mins orthos

Edit 1:
Failed @ 16mins some seconds. Had to change voltages more than once, right now I'm testing again at:

Vcore: 1.425
1.2 HT: 1.3
NB: 1.3
SB: 1.5
VTT: 1.55

Edit 2: wasn't stable enough, heres a screenshot with all voltages, seems stable enough now










Edit 3:
3.8Ghz, this just keeps getting better.










last one: 
3.8Ghz, 1100Mhz memory, orthos blend loaded for 40mins stable.


----------



## alexisd

Nice oc.Now you offset to 15 in speed fan?I hope so.And if you are stable for @ least 8hrs+,start to tight the timmings in that memory and ready to benches.


----------



## Akatsuki No Tobi

Crap, I only bought one set of Mosfets for the exposed VRMs, so will that be enough or do I need to buy more?


----------



## alexisd

How many you have in the pack?


----------



## t4ct1c47

Those G0 steppings are monstrous. I can't believe how little vCore is required for such high overclocks.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
Those G0 steppings are monstrous. I can't believe how little vCore is required for such high overclocks.









Yup i been running benches @ 4 and 3.8 easy runs.But even for 4 you need @ least 1.55+.In water this chips are great.


----------



## USlatin

hey guys! it looks like I will be getting my Q6600 G0 Friday WOOOT

my 6 month wait is almost over!


----------



## Akatsuki No Tobi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


How many you have in the pack?


I got myself four Mosfets and am not sure whether or not my motherboard will fry if I boot it up right now.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


hey guys! it looks like I will be getting my Q6600 G0 Friday WOOOT

my 6 month wait is almost over!










Nice,congrats in your new chip.I follow your thread and is amazing,how many members are there.


----------



## USlatin

well considering the numbers it is expected... 3.8 on air by multiple people, double the cores and $300... I am surprised so many people are still choosing to go with the E6850 like yourself.. but I guess in the end you are more likely to hit 4 on air than the four cores which seem to max out at 3.8 due to temps... for the best gaming experience with the current games out it is best to go E6850 but people seem to be lured by the number of cores, I bet not becuse of their future-proof quality with games like Crysis coming out but just because it sounds so cool to have 4 cores....

of course I have rendering as my reason


----------



## Anubis_offline

The oc saga of Anubis and his,

E6750, P5N32-E-sli plus, bios 0803, Tuniq tower, Antec p182 ( Silverstone fm121 is coming).
Cpu 1.4125V
Mem 2.250V
Nb 1.300V
Sb 1.500V
Vtt 1.55v
3.5Ghz, mem at 4-4-4-5, Cpu temp full load 52c
Not bad for a gaming rig ( for a friend).
I will check out the max fsb and it will be transmitted, Anubis out 10/4!


----------



## USlatin

Anubis... I forgot you had a Plus.... but hey man why r u running 803? And isn't it 903?


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Anubis... I forgot you had a Plus.... but hey man why r u running 803? And isn't it 903?

This pc is for a friend, i have the real stuff







, 0903...mmm where? I only look at Asus site.
but thx for the tip.
I am thinking about getting the Q6600 to, prices are real low now € 236, $ 325.54.
Which is better, higher cpu or faster mem timings, or mix of this two for gaming rigg.
I still can't get mine finger on it which is better.


----------



## Treatment X

Any improvement in the quad-clocking forefront ? =|


----------



## stargate125645

I thought I would let you all know that I tested my LCD Studio program for the G15 on my P5N32-E SLI and it works flawlessly.
http://www.overclock.net/computer-pe...m-archive.html
Scroll down to BladeRunner in the original post for my program in particular.

The G15 and LCD Studio create an easy, effective, and efficient way of monitoring temperatures and usages for overclocking!


----------



## USlatin

Hey Treatment X... you have to post your full BIOS settings here.. that way we can try them out


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stargate125645*


I thought I would let you all know that I tested my LCD Studio program for the G15 on my P5N32-E SLI and it works flawlessly.
http://www.overclock.net/computer-pe...m-archive.html
Scroll down to BladeRunner in the original post for my program in particular.

The G15 and LCD Studio create an easy, effective, and efficient way of monitoring temperatures and usages for overclocking!


You can also use Everest.... I got this with it.... quite useful but I am not running it as it uses CPU power... probably will run it again when I get the Quad...


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
You can also use Everest.... I got this with it.... quite useful but I am not running it as it uses CPU power... probably will run it again when I get the Quad...










It doesn't look nearly as good as mine, to be honest. Too much information crammed into one spot on theirs. If LCD Studio could make multiple screens for one program, I'd do that.


----------



## Robilar

Incidently, with the new 1203 bios, I was able to get 538 FSB stable (with a 7x multi). Thats the highest I've been able to reach with this board to date.

My assumption of course is that this is far beyond what a quad is capable of. I have the Quad QX6850 on order (supplier is still waiting for backorder fill) so I'll be able to test it soon.

The nice thing about the QX6850 (other than its GO stepping) is with the unlocked multi, I should be able to emulate a variety of settings to test Quad overclocking on the P5N32-E.

Its pretty funny that my 11 year old daughter is going to have a C2D X6800 in her system (still debating on memory and motherboard for it, likely the Asus P5K Vanilla and 2 GB of OCZ DDR2).

I may hold out changing her motherboard until the X38 boards are released. If they support SLI, I will definitely be picking one up and then she can have my board as well.

Whats annoying is that I am going to be throwing an Athlon FX-57, Asus A8N32 motherboard and a GB of top end Corsair RAM into my parts box as I was never able to find an interested buyer in Canada.

Upgrading is annoying


----------



## Treatment X

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Incidently, with the new 1203 bios, I was able to get 538 FSB stable (with a 7x multi). Thats the highest I've been able to reach with this board to date.


Do you mean on a Quad or on the 6800?

You have a lucky daughter lol.

My settings
vcore 1.3875v
Mem 2.25v
CPUVTT - 1.50v
1.2VHT - 1.40v
NB - 1.45v
SB - 1.55v

In case someone says to raise the voltages etc, I've already tried it, and there's an FSB wall. I lowered the voltage to keep heat from building up, but at the same time still be able to pass prime95-quad 24 hours.

at a very stable 3.26GHZ Quad, can hit 3.37GHZ (375FSB) but puts alot of stress on NB on this summer season (NB reaches 50C). If I turn on the AC, then I can do 3.37GHZ with NB at 44C.


----------



## Robilar

With the X6800 C2D. Quads don't fare as well on this board (As you are aware







)

The FSB wall you refer to seems to be between 350 and 390 FSB regardless of quad used. Thats the primary reason I'm going with the QX6850, its multi is unlocked and makes FSB only OC a moot point. If I end up with an X38 board that is much more quad friendly (again this is only if SLI is supported), then I may sell the new quad and pick up a Q6600. Its all speculation at this point though.


----------



## rsnt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
With the X6800 C2D. Quads don't fare as well on this board (As you are aware







)

The FSB wall you refer to seems to be between 350 and 390 FSB regardless of quad used. Thats the primary reason I'm going with the QX6850, its multi is unlocked and makes FSB only OC a moot point. If I end up with an X38 board that is much more quad friendly (again this is only if SLI is supported), then I may sell the new quad and pick up a Q6600. Its all speculation at this point though.

Hey Rob, if you don't mind giving me some details about overclocking the memory on this board now that I got my CPU to 3.8 stable and I plan on running it 24/7 like that. Keep it mind I need best gaming performance out of the memory OC







so whatever you think would work better


----------



## Anubis_offline

SPD-Z is here, flash your SPD for compatibility or increased performance ocz

http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/fo...633#post228633

Lest tweak....just found this looks nice, have to check it out


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsnt*


Hey Rob, if you don't mind giving me some details about overclocking the memory on this board now that I got my CPU to 3.8 stable and I plan on running it 24/7 like that. Keep it mind I need best gaming performance out of the memory OC







so whatever you think would work better











Your memory will run faster with tighter timings and 1T at 800 Mhz. (I've benched the memory at looser timings and 1066 to verify).

Run your ram at 800 Mhz, 4-4-4-8 @ 1T. With that cpu overclock, it will provide the best benching scores.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anubis_offline*


SPD-Z is here, flash your SPD for compatibility or increased performance ocz

http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/fo...633#post228633

Lest tweak....just fond this looks nice, have to check it out


I had a look at this awhile before it was released. It will in theory re-write the timings of the memory based on OCZ testing.

I'll have to go back and look at my results from earlier to see if the updated tool provides better results.


----------



## rsnt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


I had a look at this awhile before it was released. It will in theory re-write the timings of the memory based on OCZ testing.

I'll have to go back and look at my results from earlier to see if the updated tool provides better results.



Please do







I'm going to squeeze the timings like you said and see if I get more FPS. What I found very funny was that I get the same FPS in Counter Strike Source between 3.0ghz and 3.8ghz. I ran the stress test on both and got 230ish everything completely maxed out. That's why overclocking the memory might make some difference.

Edit: Should I use memset or make my changes directly in BIOS?


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stargate125645*


It doesn't look nearly as good as mine, to be honest. Too much information crammed into one spot on theirs. If LCD Studio could make multiple screens for one program, I'd do that.


No dude you choose what u want to display, then the font the size, bold...etc... then you move it around... this works for me cause I remember where is each number so I know where to look... it is easy to find the number at first glimpse too but if you want a huge visual guide for just a few aspects then you do have to go custom


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


With the X6800 C2D. Quads don't fare as well on this board (As you are aware







)

The FSB wall you refer to seems to be between 350 and 390 FSB regardless of quad used. Thats the primary reason I'm going with the QX6850, its multi is unlocked and makes FSB only OC a moot point. If I end up with an X38 board that is much more quad friendly (again this is only if SLI is supported), then I may sell the new quad and pick up a Q6600. Its all speculation at this point though.


Robilar, can we expect you to start a thread about the X38 mobo you go with..?


----------



## Treatment X

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsnt*


Please do







I'm going to squeeze the timings like you said and see if I get more FPS. What I found very funny was that I get the same FPS in Counter Strike Source between 3.0ghz and 3.8ghz. I ran the stress test on both and got 230ish everything completely maxed out. That's why overclocking the memory might make some difference.

Edit: Should I use memset or make my changes directly in BIOS?


Actually, I do alot of gaming myself, and I too have found a plateau at around 3.15GHZ. After that, the max speed attainable by the 8800gtx series seem to plateau out and would only gain a few frames, up to 10fps in worst case, but on average like 3frames with a 800mhz difference.

HOWEVER, I have also recently benched some really really OLD games and found that games that were previously in frames like 300-400fps, I would gain 20fps and upwards... but at 300fps, you won't notice 20fps anyway.

Long story short, you're on the right track. Looking for speed/bandwidth elsewhere is probably better than clocking your CPU/GPU, but just realize you may or may not have already hit your sweet spot!


----------



## Treatment X

Actually, now that I look around the web, my system's actually doing better than some systems with SLI! I'm getting 14200's in 3dmark06... I'm not too unhappy about this stupid wall situation.... although if there wasn't a wall....>=(


----------



## USlatin

the problem is that 3Dmark may give you higher marks but in non-quad optimized games those extra marks don't translate to extra FPS...


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


the problem is that 3Dmark may give you higher marks but in non-quad optimized games those extra marks don't translate to extra FPS...


Very true, if current games used all the cores we'd be getting frame rates going though the roof.

When a Crysis demo appears it will be the best benchmark to see the real world difference between Quad vs Duo. My guess is it's going to be rather a lot. The castle demonstration and Kentsfield Ice Demo shows evidence of this already.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*


When a Crysis demo appears it will be the best benchmark to see the real world difference between Quad vs Duo.


spot on mate!


----------



## Treatment X

*nod* Either way it's a win win situation for quad owners *w00t*

anyway, I bench'ed at 370FSB, thought I'd share it
http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=2686626


----------



## USlatin

talking about a win win situation for Quad owners... yours truly gets his tomorrow "by 3pm" but knowing FedEx the'll wake my arse up at the crack of 10am









so... I finally broke down the puter to prep with the extra cooling I had purchased and lapp everything (I do mean everything)

check out the little mosfets all over the board 100% of them are fitted with little aluminum HS and much more has been covered with the extra swiftech's that were not needed now that I used the copper swiftech's on the CPU's mosfets o-v-e-r-k-i-l-l gotta love it... oh... and if you don't think it is overkill let me just tell u I lapped everything... and by everything I mean I actually lapped not only the SB cooler but also the copper mosfets... heehhehe stupid MOST DEFINITELY but being OCD and all it made me happy









BTW: you can not fit one coper swiftech per CPU mosfet unfortunately... I could have on some of them but I guess you don't want there to be a variance between their temps so I opted for placing them diagonally so that each HS contacts two mosfets... there is plenty of contact and the copper HS have more mass... do they have more surface area? dunno... maybe? maybe not? does the fact that they are made of copper help? I think so but not sure if it could ofset the possibility that they MAY have less surface area... MAY is the right word people... I think it is a close call..... and it these have more or equal surface area then they are the winner... without mentioning the better airflow from taller design and the extra space between the fins...

anywho... I am happy cause I OCD'ed for a few hours heheh


----------



## Treatment X

lol, just a little overkill, but it's AWESOME! deserve alot of props for that, good good stuff! I'm not sure how much it will help, but it will definitely help to some degree, given the difficulties we're having with this board.


----------



## USlatin

hehehe help... I don't know it it really will at all.. but I had the stuff laying around and I reeeealy enjoyed it







but hey... it might help keep it a touch cooler which might help me be stable at 373FSB instead of 372.9? heheheh

then again you might be right and I might actually be helping it... who knows... wish I could check.... BTW that is 8 black aluminum swiftech mosfet HS and like 15 tiny black aluminum HS like 5mm x 5mm x 5mm, then three aluminum bigger ones and then one set of copper swiftechs on the CPU mosfets... I had a second set of those but I decided to keep them in the package cause the sticky part isn't truly re-usable.... this way i can add it as a bonus on an E-Bay auction for say... my E6300?
*
OH!!!!! ABOUT THE EVERCOOL CLEARANCE:*
I pushed the fins down instead of cutting them and that worked BUT the white port's tab still was a problem as it was too long and got in the way of the fan istelf... I did have to snip a little bit off the end... not happy about that at all but it can't hurt my RMA possibilities that much and in terms of resale it really doesn't affect the board at all... the lock remains functional


----------



## Treatment X

*awaiting patiently for USlatin's Q6600*


----------



## USlatin

runnin' your settings Bro! :thumbsup"

so far I am like 20min into *3.2627GHz 362.5FSB with 1.3875Vcore* so no real news just this:

_I am getting 70C and lower
_my VID is 1.3V on CPU-Z

the juicy stuff: will I be able to hit higher? 
Not there just yet, sorry but planning on tryig it out if I can hold back from checking out my renders first









EDIT: I hit 73C still with 1.3875Vcore







(but 72.3C is the "real" temp for the Q6600 G0) running strong still...


----------



## USlatin

ok, I got this to show 4 now...


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Robilar, can we expect you to start a thread about the X38 mobo you go with..?

Of course. I learned as much from this thread as I put into it.


----------



## mica3speedy

nice work


----------



## Treatment X

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
ok, I got this to show 4 now...

huh? I thought you said you were getting high temps, but these are below 50! ???


----------



## USlatin

I didn't adjust the Core Temp... so add 15 because of the 100 tJunction


----------



## Treatment X

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
I didn't adjust the Core Temp... so add 15 because of the 100 tJunction

Wait, I thought CoreTemp doesn't need to be re-adjusted, but only SpeedFan needs to be adjusted.... ??


----------



## USlatin

Fellas!!! Sorry about the confusion it is hard to beieve that your Quad can run cooler than your Duo AT HIGHER CLOCKS!!!

My load temps: *BELOW 60C*
My Board temp (between RAM and NB) is up to 50 on SpeedFan which worries me quite a bit... any thoughts? Is this accurate? Should I add 15C?

It seems we need to figure out nothing but our GTL voltage for our board...


----------



## NCspecV81

yeah coretemp does not need the 15c adjustment. Just speedfan.


----------



## USlatin

I can't believe it! Now it won't go past 57C at load!









hey guys check this out: I was running Prime right... I hear a clink!... screens go black! sweat, hyperventilating... one of my CPU mosfet sinks fell of!!! (cheapo me I recycled the first set I bought instead of using the brand new ones and the thermal tape I used sucks!)

I guess the board really doesn't like the difference in CPU fet temp or it didn't get enough juice through that one or something but it seems out CPU fet cooling is uber important...

BTW i slapped one of the new ones on that one, checked for loose ones and replaced one more.. but I am looking for better tape now... anyone know of good strong adhesive thermal tape?


----------



## NCspecV81

might want to try some artic silver thermal glue or whatever it is.


----------



## USlatin

but will they come off? I mean will they be removable without damage being caused?
*
OK, I waited 6 months for this afternoon so I took some pics... others in my gallery*

http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho...0/ppuser/35611 
too bad I snapped a blade on the NB fan

and the attachments:
1. just got it
2. and she's been waiting
3. he's ready too
4. KABLAAAAAM!!!
5. ground zero


----------



## USlatin

*3.3GHz* (367FSB) running *Prime95 for 2hs* now and never passing 60C with *1.3875 Vcore*
Still haven't tried higher still haven't tried lowering Vcore, right now I want to find one good setting to use for work and testing will continue over the next few weeks

Hey Treatement X, when you said that your NB hits 50C... do you mean the first SpeedFan temp? That is a thermal probe between the ram and NB which serves for a case/MoBo temp... mine does exactly that temp too... it is much higher than with my Duo... must be the added processing straining the communication the NB has to sustain...plus the heat from the CPUs themselves...?


----------



## Treatment X

It was Temp2, and it has always coincided with "Chipset" or "Motherboard" temps off other software like Everest or the like.... and actually, it was only hitting 50C on those super hot days in LA, it hits about 46C now on load. But LA's been cooler last couple days, will get hot again in the coming week =(


----------



## USlatin

where r u @? we are in the Valley so it prob gets worse here!

Hey how high did you get stable on 1.3875V?
what was the highest you got stable?
Why r u at 3.27? Trying to run it cooler?


----------



## Treatment X

lol, i'm 10 minutes from downtown Los Angeles lol.

High stable was 3.27ghz at 1.3875
Highest was 3.33ghz at 1.4125v, quad-prime95 for 4 hours (yes, i know people argue 8-24hours, but I knew i wasn't going to run 3.33ghz 24-hours anyway). I think part of it is that my mosfets/nb gets super hot as well, so i have my air conditioner on when i go at 3.33ghz.

I toned it down to 3.27ghz because my room is small, so we all know what happens in a small room, the heat dissipated gets trapped and stays in the room, and the temp in the room spirals. So it's really how you can direct heat/tone down your overclock, so i opted to turn down overclock and redirect some heat. ... so i stayed at 3.27ghz 24/7 use.


----------



## USlatin

wow... yea you seem to be in need for some Swiftech mosfets.. naybe wanna buy my extra set? but you really need NB cooling more than anything on this board


----------



## matthewrsx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


but will they come off? I mean will they be removable without damage being caused?



No, the Arctic Silver thermal adhesive is permanent. I've heard that it is _possible _to get it off, but if you use it, consider it stuck forever.

I've also had some trouble finding good thermal or frag tape. Not sure who the best manufacturers would be; AS doesn't make tape.


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *matthewrsx*


No, the Arctic Silver thermal adhesive is permanent. I've heard that it is _possible _to get it off, but if you use it, consider it stuck forever.

I've also had some trouble finding good thermal or frag tape. Not sure who the best manufacturers would be; AS doesn't make tape.



incorrect...

AS5 residue can best be removed with solvents such as acetone, ethyl acetate, or mineral spirits. Isopropyl alcohol may not remove old AS5 but it is not like glue..

It is easily removed witha variety of common solvents available at most hardware stores..


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I can't believe it! Now it won't go past 57C at load!









BTW i slapped one of the new ones on that one, checked for loose ones and replaced one more.. but I am looking for better tape now... anyone know of good strong adhesive thermal tape?


Only place I know of that sells tape.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/therinmat.html


----------



## matthewrsx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuclearjock*


incorrect...

AS5 residue can best be removed with solvents such as acetone, ethyl acetate, or mineral spirits. Isopropyl alcohol may not remove old AS5 but it is not like glue..

It is easily removed witha variety of common solvents available at most hardware stores..


I'm not talking about AS5 Thermal PASTE, I'm talking about Arctic Silver thermal ADHESIVE. They are different products.

The adhesive is essentially AS5 with some conductive superglue added in.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835100005


----------



## Robilar

3M makes the best thermal tape


----------



## The_Rocker

Right, i have this board and a q6600, my temps are 20 ish idle and around 30-40 load at stock with an AC freezer 7 pro.

How do i go about ocing it? i have no idea.... I only want to go upto 3 at most.

I have manually input the memory timings and voltage. I have also put the CPU VTT to 1.30v

What next?


----------



## cabbyjoe

I have tried this 3 times now and I must be clueless because I have worked on the settings for about 15 minutes and had to send the motherboard back to ASUS for a replacement (system wont post.... this is my 4th P5N32-E SLI). I really want to know how to overclock to learn. I dont even play games that much other than poker. lol I would just like to be more knowledgable. Thank you for any science you could drop on me.


----------



## rsnt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cabbyjoe*


I have tried this 3 times now and I must be clueless because I have worked on the settings for about 15 minutes and had to send the motherboard back to ASUS for a replacement (system wont post.... this is my 4th P5N32-E SLI). I really want to know how to overclock to learn. I dont even play games that much other than poker. lol I would just like to be more knowledgable. Thank you for any science you could drop on me.










I've hit 3.8Ghz on my E6850 with the same board my first time. It's all about baby steps. Disable everything Robilar mentions in the first post. Then leave all voltages at stock, then begin raising the FSB in increments of 25. Boot into windows and test with orthos small FFTs for 16 mins (one full round) if it passes, reboot and raise again. As soon as you start getting instability issues, start raising your vcore one step at a time and test again. Once you've raised the vcore 0.5v extra and still not getting any stability, raise your 1.2HT, NB, SB by a lil and try again one step lower for vcore, etc... Make sure VTT is 1.55v at all time.


----------



## Treatment X

I think everyone has their own method... but it's all similar nonetheless.

I tend to start with vcore. I kind of do a little research on the web, see what numbers people are getting at what vcore, what vcore is safe, etc. After that, I decide on THAT vcore... say 1.575v.

Then I know with that kind of vcore, I know I will need chipset stability, so I go ahead and raise my NB/SB/VTT/VHT to the voltages in the upper end that I know are safe, and my memory at maximum "real" voltage (2.3 rated, so I go at 2.275v, which bumps up when windows load). I turn off all the speed spectrum options, all the chip options (C1E, Speedstep etc)

Then the only variable left is the FSB, which I bump up a big margin... then I do the prime95/orthos test 1 round (15-16 minutes), and if stable bump up the fsb again. Once it starts to become unstable at 1 round, I bump down the fsb a notch or two, then Prime95 it 4-24hours, depending on how "stable" you want it.... I do 4 hours, but it's generally accepted to do at least 8 hours. If it passes that mark, then your system's considered stable.

Then once it's stable, go back and turn on C1E/Speedstep/Disabled Execute Bit, and prime it one last time. I turn on these features because I leave my computer on 24/7, and these things save the bill.


----------



## USlatin

All I need it for is to hold the 8.5 gram copper Swiftechs that keep falling. I had one of the brand new ones fall off, this is one of the new ones I used on the spot of the one that first fell off.

Robilar, will the 3M tape do the trick?

Otherwise, Matthews, will the Thermal adhesive allow for SAFE removal? If there is ANY risk of the mosfet coming off with it then that is not an option for me.

Side note: 3.3GHz 9hs 30min Prime95 stable with 59C peaks in CoreTemp, 60C peaks in SpeedFan with 1.3875 Vcore. I have not pushed closer to the wall yet but I might now that I got a safe editing safe Overclock. This was run with the puter sideways on the floor so the fets didn't fall in the middle of the test... how sad, plz help me







. 
(uploading screen shot)


----------



## USlatin

Bad News:

*ERROR* after 10hs and 8min, then a second core failed at 10hs and 15min

again *367FSB x 9 with 1.3875Vcore*

should I go up to 1.4 Vcore or drop it down to 3.26 like Treatment X?

X, did you try Prime at 3.3 with 1.4? That much is worth it but any more than 0.5V over spec for minimal gains starts to get dumb IMO.


----------



## Treatment X

Yea, I can Prime at 3332MHZ, and it's fine at 1.4125v, but it's very "wacky" when it gets that close to the wall. I would prime for hours and it be fine. Then I play a game, it'll BSOD... I turn on my webcam, it'll BSOD. Sometimes it would, sometimes it wouldn't. So instead of dealing with that kinda random acts of deranged cyber-poltergeist possession, I just opted for <3300MHZ performance... which in my case is mostly gaming. After watching the frames in my games, 3332MHZ vs 3271MHZ has about 2 frame difference...

In YOUR case however, is film, which speeds do matter alot more than frames... but also data reliability and safety is a concern. I don't think anyone can give you the best answer but yourself to be honest, you value your data differently... from an outsider's point of view, I value your data more so than the extra i dunno, 15 minutes, of speed gain you would get from clocking close to the wall. I'd bump down to 370FSB (3330MHZ), and bump up the volt to 1.4125v, since you were golden for 10hours at 376FSB at 1.3875v... and that extra 54MHZ won't make enough of a difference to push your rig that hard...

just an opinion.


----------



## USlatin

Ok, guys... so I started a thread about my "problem" and it might be turning out to be a NB or RAM issue... I couldn't get past the first minute of a blend test so I messed with DIMM voltages but nothing... so I took 2 GB out and I passed 5min....

I am setting the Vdimm back to my 2.25V for 2.29V after droop cause with HZ's I want to be at 2.3V...

Testing again, cross your fingers for me, plz!!!!

Here is the whole thread I started please check it out (2pages):
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...what-does.html

OH CRAP! I also have the clock set to 3.26GHz now... well not a big deal like you said... but I do want to be able to say 3.3 if it is 24hs Prime possible... and the 4GB to 2GB of RAM is no biggie for editing on my software so no biggie there either... it is all about CPU and speed of your first 2GB basically... I guess I am ready for Vista though... but will I have to switch MoBos? If so I might wait till Robilar goes X38 or whatever the crap the 45nm boards are called


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


Yea, I can Prime at 3332MHZ, and it's fine at 1.4125v, but it's very "wacky" when it gets that close to the wall. I would prime for hours and it be fine. Then I play a game, it'll BSOD... I turn on my webcam, it'll BSOD. Sometimes it would, sometimes it wouldn't. So instead of dealing with that kinda random acts of deranged cyber-poltergeist possession, I just opted for <3300MHZ performance... which in my case is mostly gaming. After watching the frames in my games, 3332MHZ vs 3271MHZ has about 2 frame difference...

In YOUR case however, is film, which speeds do matter alot more than frames... but also data reliability and safety is a concern. I don't think anyone can give you the best answer but yourself to be honest, you value your data differently... from an outsider's point of view, I value your data more so than the extra i dunno, 15 minutes, of speed gain you would get from clocking close to the wall. I'd bump down to 370FSB (3330MHZ), and bump up the volt to 1.4125v, since you were golden for 10hours at 376FSB at 1.3875v... and that extra 54MHZ won't make enough of a difference to push your rig that hard...

just an opinion.


I completely agree, your rationale is dead on bro! Thank you so much for your support! But let me ask you... do you think you might also have a NB problem... I mean you don't have 4GB but if I remember correctly you might be running stock cooling on it which might have the same effect... out NB get's hot... and it had problems keeping up with my 4GB since I had to lower my OC on my RAM when I went 4GB... perhaps that's what we need... NB tinkering...

I know that more NB voltage won't help me cause I've tried that.... once you get to the 1.55V mark there is little gains from added voltage if I remember correctly... then again that was with the rigged pan on the stock HS... so maybe I can crank up a bit higher.... but I haven't seen any of the guys here with Spirits on their NBs going higher than that...

any thoughts?


----------



## USlatin

*To clarify for Q6600 G0 people, this is what I think we need to figure out:*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


Yea, I can Prime at 3332MHZ, and it's fine at 1.4125v, but it's very "wacky" when it gets that close to the wall. I would prime for hours and it be fine. Then I play a game, it'll BSOD... I turn on my webcam, it'll BSOD. Sometimes it would, sometimes it wouldn't. So instead of dealing with that kinda random acts of deranged cyber-poltergeist possession, I just opted for <3300MHZ performance...


The only hope for better numbers is that X might be running stock NB cooling still and we might be able to creep a touch closer to the wall with proper cooling... but other than for 3.3 bragging rights there is little to be gained there...

Also:
Why did my board not handle 4GB and the Quad? I have excellent Air cooling so that's not it... I was 10hs small FTT stable so that's still not it (remember I failed in the initial minute of the blend)... was it my PSU? I am quite loaded here but people keep telling me that my Antec 650W is ok... I do have a PC & Cooling 850W on the way but would that have a chance at letting me run 4GB?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


3M makes the best thermal tape


Requested a sample, think I'll get it?

BTW: Blend test has passed 15min with 3.26GHz and 2GB, I'll let it run an hour then hopefully run 3.3GHz overnight


----------



## USlatin

Hey Robilar when you tested the accuracy of Everest's volt readouts, did you also test to see if the Dimm's voltage read accurately?
I get a slight positive Vdroop and I am worried about feeding too much volts to my HZs now that I am going to try to run em hard again.

I am hoping to get 4-4-4-12-1T 950MHz again.


----------



## Treatment X

4 sticks of RAM?

If you have 4 sticks, Quad, 680i, I am sure there's alot of stress on the NB, without a doubt. The best way to know if it's the NB crapping out is to watch the NB temps while ur blending/stressing RAM somehow. If you're approaching 50C, it's too high. I removed all of my NB/SB/Mofsets and AS5'd everything. Then when I really want to reach those >3.3ghz, I do have a fan blowing on the NB. It's a finned heatsink, so I feel like the fan I have is doing fine when I bench.

What I found helpful was that my Tsunami Dream has a fan on the case-window. That alone was enough to draw the heat off the NB a couple notches when the case is on... the 650W, single video card, it's fine. I'm running 620W and I have crazy overclock on my 8800gtx.

What's the temp on your chipset now?


----------



## USlatin

*Has anyone ran 1.55V on their NB?*
I ran one hour and one thread of Prime failed... and I was only going 4-4-4-12-1T 900MHz!

X, the 620 Corsair is supposedly better than my Antec 650W.

EDIT: I got a blend running with 3.3GHz 1.4Vcore and 4-4-4-12-2T 1000MHz 2.3V and NB at 1.55V...

soooo frustrating that not only I had to loose 2GB but also tone down my RAM speed...








I am DONE with this board... no Quad no-go... I am wishing i had a P35 NB reeeealy bad now...


----------



## Spit

Hey all, been lurking on this thread for a bit, only just signed up and decided to post. I've been reading for a while and I still haven't found an answer to my question, but I think I still know the answer.

I have all the components I need to build my system sitting right in front of me. The only thing I don't have, is the MOSFET heatsinks for the exposed VRMs. I have a pair of Thermaltake Spirit II NB/SB coolers, but I was wondering if it was absolutely mandatory to have some form of cooling for the VRMs, or if I could get away with it for a few days. I plan to let the system sort of burn in before I start overclocking, so I won't be putting any stress on the system aside from installing software and some gaming.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spit* 
Hey all, been lurking on this thread for a bit, only just signed up and decided to post. I've been reading for a while and I still haven't found an answer to my question, but I think I still know the answer.

I have all the components I need to build my system sitting right in front of me. The only thing I don't have, is the MOSFET heatsinks for the exposed VRMs. I have a pair of Thermaltake Spirit II NB/SB coolers, but I was wondering if it was absolutely mandatory to have some form of cooling for the VRMs, or if I could get away with it for a few days. I plan to let the system sort of burn in before I start overclocking, so I won't be putting any stress on the system aside from installing software and some gaming.

You're taking your chances without anything on them.
If I remember correctly, somebody fried one that way. I can't remember how much they were stressing it or for how long.
Welcome to Overclock.net


----------



## Spit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
You're taking your chances without anything on them.
If I remember correctly, somebody fried one that way. I can't remember how much they were stressing it or for how long.
Welcome to Overclock.net









Thanks for the welcome.

Would it be an idea to just use the stock heatsinks? I could simply clamp, cut then solder shut the heat pipes. I just don't know how that will affet the usefulness of the heatsinks. I know it voids the warranty but I'm used to it after years of overclocking and modding.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spit* 
Thanks for the welcome.

Would it be an idea to just use the stock heatsinks? I could simply clamp, cut then solder shut the heat pipes. I just don't know how that will affet the usefulness of the heatsinks. I know it voids the warranty but I'm used to it after years of overclocking and modding.

That's what I did with mine


----------



## Treatment X

yea... it is very frustrating....


----------



## Spit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


That's what I did with mine










Would you happen to have pictures or could you tell me how you went about it?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hi, all. This is my first post to this forum (and I think to OC net). I wanted to thank you all for your excellent recommendations for this board. It has been a rough eight months since I bought it, but I've tamed most of the beasts. I especially appreciate the cooling advice, which I TOOK.

I must say, however, that I would have rethought the effort of installing a Coolermaster Mini R80. I'm stable at 3.46 on my QX6700, but I experience a slew of TDR (nvlddmkm) errors when I go faster; I think it's heat-related.

I must admit I haven't read through all 238 pages of this thread, but it is certainly at the top of my to-do list.

Cheers,

d


----------



## USlatin

I finally found a 3.3GHz 4-4-4-12-2T 1000MHz that just passed the 10hs Prime blend stable but... EDIT:11hs by now

Unfortunately I upped my NB to 1.55 at the same time that I dropped the memory frequency so I am not sure but I might be able to go down to 1.5V at least on the NB...

I am completely upset though cause It was impossible to stabilize the NB with 4GB with any overclocking and the OC on the 2GBs is nowhere near the RAM's capabilities!!!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Spit*


Would you happen to have pictures or could you tell me how you went about it?


All I did was crush the pipe, near the hs, with a hammer.
Cut with a Dremel cutoff wheel. Same technique for both of them.
I have a 120 Loon pointed directly at them from the case window and they are still warm.


----------



## USlatin

ok it failed... *11hs 44min* though


----------



## mica3speedy

^^^ almost 12hrs (close enough in my book)







.

I have a question regarding voltages. Currently I'm a [email protected] with the following voltages:
vcore=1.2750
1.2ht=1.3
nb=1.45
sb=1.5
cpuvtt=1.55

my ram is unlinked and is running at 800mhz. I can hit 3.2ghz stable with vcore=1.35. I tried to hit 3.33ghz stable with 1.35, but it would fail orthos (best was 52 minutes). I know increasing the vcore will make it more stable. What should I do with the other voltages? Keep in mind that I still have stock cooling on the nb and sb, but now have a silverstone 106cfm fan blowing into the case.


----------



## Treatment X

truth be told, I believe no one can give you a magic bullet, everyone's ambient temps are different by a little bit, you seem to be on the right track. I don't think it's the NB/SB that's holding you back though, 3.33ghz at 1.35 seems like pretty low volt, but I had a very bad E6700 before and it would take 1.3875v to hit 3.33ghz, and maxed out at 1.625v 3.9ghz. (i'm on water).

I don't think you can do enough damage to the chip before it turns itself off, I have yet to hear someone really frying their CPU. So if you're on stock cooling, I believe 1.4-1.45v is pretty good, and just push your fsb that way. And i'd go straight to 3.33ghz to start (333FSB x 10, or 1332 QDR bios), then slowly go up. If it's too much, you'll crash... system will shut off, won't e ven have enough time to begin making any damage.

Ambient temps?


----------



## CpLRusty

OK I bought an Antec 900 yesterday and moved my rig into it. Like a proud papa I posted info on Overclock.net in the Cases and Mods forum.

Guess what - I learned that for the past year I've had my Freezer 7 Pro installed BACKWARDS!!









Corrected that today... results are NICE... With a 3.465GHz OC my idle temp is either 16c or 31c depending on what you believe the 6850 Tjunction to be. More info on my goof-up and corrections at http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...st2576363.html

I'll be back working up OC data in a day or so. Right now I am just enjoying my fancy new case with it's lovely blue-lit fans.


----------



## stargate125645

Can anyone help me out with this?
http://www.overclock.net/intel-memor...-1000-ram.html


----------



## mica3speedy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


truth be told, I believe no one can give you a magic bullet, everyone's ambient temps are different by a little bit, you seem to be on the right track. I don't think it's the NB/SB that's holding you back though, 3.33ghz at 1.35 seems like pretty low volt, but I had a very bad E6700 before and it would take 1.3875v to hit 3.33ghz, and maxed out at 1.625v 3.9ghz. (i'm on water).

I don't think you can do enough damage to the chip before it turns itself off, I have yet to hear someone really frying their CPU. So if you're on stock cooling, I believe 1.4-1.45v is pretty good, and just push your fsb that way. And i'd go straight to 3.33ghz to start (333FSB x 10, or 1332 QDR bios), then slowly go up. If it's too much, you'll crash... system will shut off, won't e ven have enough time to begin making any damage.

Ambient temps?


thanks for the info







. I have a zalman 9700, but I still have the stock passive cooling on the nb and sb. I'm wondering if I should up the other voltages along with the vcore, or just leave them alone? My ambient temperature is around 24-25c.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


thanks for the info







. I have a zalman 9700, but I still have the stock passive cooling on the nb and sb. I'm wondering if I should up the other voltages along with the vcore, or just leave them alone? My ambient temperature is around 24-25c.


Here is my settings for a 3.5 rock solid in orthos>With a 6700ES.
Vcore=1.562
1.2ht=1.40
NB=1.45
sb=1.50
cpuvtt=1.55
1400x10=3.5
Memory unlinked,940,4 4 4 4 2T,2.15 volts.
Hope it help.


----------



## USlatin

nice clock... and nice test length too


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Here is my settings for a 3.5 rock solid in orthos>With a 6700ES.
Vcore=1.562
1.2ht=1.40
NB=1.45
sb=1.50
cpuvtt=1.55
1400x10=3.5
Memory unlinked,940,4 4 4 4 2T,2.15 volts.
Hope it help.


Ouch, that's a high Vcore for 3.5 GHz!


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


nice clock... and nice test length too










Im always look into the 12hrs and 24 hrs orthos stable OC.No less.Now with my 6850 is running 3.8.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stargate125645*


Ouch, that's a high Vcore for 3.5 GHz!


And this is a 6700ES that is volts hungry chip.And i know that for your OC,you have @ least 1.60.And probably no stable.







And now with the 6850 i only need some 1.5 for a clock of 3.8 and 3.9 easy.Once you jump into the 4ghz,to maked stable i need some like 1.6.


----------



## mica3speedy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Here is my settings for a 3.5 rock solid in orthos>With a 6700ES.
Vcore=1.562
1.2ht=1.40
NB=1.45
sb=1.50
cpuvtt=1.55
1400x10=3.5
Memory unlinked,940,4 4 4 4 2T,2.15 volts.
Hope it help.

what were your temps under load with these settings?

my current settings are:
Vcore=1.41
1.2ht=1.40
NB=1.45
sb=1.50
cpuvtt=1.55

my temps under load with orthos is 63c, my ambient is 28c. In everest it lists my cpu at 57, the cores at 63, motherboard is at 32c. also in everest it lists my cpu voltage at 1.36. Is this due to vdroop?


----------



## mica3speedy

I forgot to mention it's currently at 333X10. Also I have the 1103 bios; will the 1203 help me at all?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


what were your temps under load with these settings?

my current settings are:
Vcore=1.41
1.2ht=1.40
NB=1.45
sb=1.50
cpuvtt=1.55

my temps under load with orthos is 63c, my ambient is 28c. In everest it lists my cpu at 57, the cores at 63, motherboard is at 32c. also in everest it lists my cpu voltage at 1.36. Is this due to vdroop?


All my settings are in post #2381,temps,volts orthos,ect.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


I forgot to mention it's currently at 333X10. Also I have the 1103 bios; will the 1203 help me at all?


Try to always update to the last bios,for better stability.


----------



## mica3speedy

gotcha







. Sorry I missed your temps earlier, nice temps by the way. I think my system is going to be maxed by temps at 3.33ghz







. So far stable running orthos for 2 hrs, 20minutes. Will update after orthos runs for 12 hours. I'll update my bios after that to see if it makes a difference. Hopefully I'll be able to lower vcore with the new bios and lower temps.


----------



## mica3speedy

well it bsod and restarted on me







. Now at 1.41875 volts vcore. Upped 1.2ht from 1.3 to 1.35. going to try again with orthos


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Im always look into the 12hrs and 24 hrs orthos stable OC.No less.Now with my 6850 is running 3.8.

And this is a 6700ES that is volts hungry chip.And i know that for your OC,you have @ least 1.60.And probably no stable.







And now with the 6850 i only need some 1.5 for a clock of 3.8 and 3.9 easy.Once you jump into the 4ghz,to maked stable i need some like 1.6.


That's odd how your voltage requirement drops off... 1.45V for a very stable 3.5GHz is all I need, and my computer is stable enough at 3.714GHz. It can run anything I want it to at that speed, but the voltage is too high for my tastes.


----------



## USlatin

different chips but I agree on the voltages...

which brings me to this question I've been meaning to ask:
Our NorthBridge... how do u guys feel about 1.55V?

I am thinking that the 110 CMF Silverstone might be robbing the NB of some of the air that my puny 90mm side panel fan is feeding it but I was still amazed when I touched the top of the Noctua during small FTT's to notice it was warm!!!!!

I need to get a custom plexy panel to fit the TT's 120mm fan on the side to get more air but still... 1.55 and a lapped Noctua with a 17CMF 60mm fan gets warm?

Does this happen to your Spirits guys?


----------



## Treatment X

I need help USLatin... I've been eyeing this the last hour

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...tCode=10006304

but I keep telling myself I need X38..... will I ever use SLI... even though I told myself I would... but i've never actually did do SLI...


----------



## t4ct1c47

There's not much point in SLi if you're useing a top-end card and don't play above 1280x1024 resolution in my opinion. Hence why I sold my second 8800GTS.


----------



## Treatment X

i play at 1920x1200.... WoW at that resolution, 16x anisotropic, everything on full blast.... is AWESOME lol. And it's pretty smooth right now, i can't complain... and it's just on a single 8800gtx.


----------



## USlatin

I already replied on MoBo's Q6600 walls thread but here is a good place to briefly talk about the X38 as I suspect it might be the a board that might pull several of us from the P5N32-E SLI and we got such a nice group going here that if Robilar and a few of the other guys jump over I will HAVE to (but I am already sold on it







)

I have a 1920 x 1200 and my GTS gives me 71fps on COD2 (my ONLY game so I can't help much) SLI is a waste of money right now IMO unless you need dual GTX to play a game you adore.... I wouldn't know... but in terms of 3Dmark performance it seems it might only become a good investment if GTS and GTX dropped about $150 after 9800 release... I think $100 might be possible but not much more... and we might find that 9800's pull like 18k marks alone... so it is very hard to figure out ATM... but regardless I bet there won't be a big jump from X38 and X38 SLI boards... the jump should only be between P35/680i and X38 chipsets so if you want SLI capabilities for whatever reasons that won't make a huge difference... now if it enables you to go X38 then I think doing away with SLI is not a bad idea at all since it really isn't thaaat big of a deal like Tactical points out

I got an extra 2,304,000 pixels and 1080p capability waiting to be used so for me SLI is a must... unfortunately I will let all of you gamers down ad will only go with SLI'ed 8800 GTS 640MBs when you guys will be freaking out and talking about nothing but the 9800


----------



## Treatment X

lol.

I was reading more into the x38, and I read something about unlocking speed or fsb unlocking ??? did you read about that? that seems to be the only bigger issue for me right now.... after this last experience with ASUS, i wanna be extra careful about what will be the limiting factor... if i'm going to be limited, i want it to be my inability to cool, not because of a piece of hardware i spit out cash for... and especially not for a reason that shouldn't have existed in the first place... and definitely not for something that competitors recognize and are helping their customers while my brand is not helping me...

ok enough ranting... anyone know more about this "unlock speed" or whatever it is, in the x38?


----------



## USlatin

I have no clue but I don't need to be sold on it... however I would love to know more about it so perhaps we should start a thread about it

I agree with you about ASUS looking the other way when EVGA helps their customers... just to clarify this board was made before Quads were mainstream (were they even out) so they didn't know about the need for the specific voltages and I guess they knew their board so well that they trimmed it all down to the minimums that would allow the crazy high 500FSB we heard about it has hit before with duos... not their "fault" per se but they are looking the other way and it looks horrible when compared to EVGA...

I doublt they will have any problems with Quads in the future


----------



## mica3speedy

well I'm currently at 8 hours of orthos stable. Seeing my temps at 60c, 3.33ghz is the best I'm going to get







. I'll update to 1203 tomorrow and see if I can do the same again with lower voltages.


----------



## Treatment X

Might want to re-mount your cooling. I had a terrible E6700, but I was able to get 3.5ghz easily with the board, and ended up at 3.9ghz... sold the E6700 and with the q6600 now... which our board has poor quad performance...









anyway, the feature i was referring to, is apparently called overspeed protection ... looks like it's being removed.

http://www.pcstats.com/NewsView.cfm?NewsID=58699

anyone with ideas of what that is?


----------



## mica3speedy

I'll retry mounting again, maybe even do Audi's method.


----------



## USlatin

I tried Audi's and got the worst temps ever then I painted this time and get 59C load with 1.4V... with Audi's it is all about the way you set it down, keep that in mind... I think that's why I messed it up...

I rub AS5 all over so the imperfections and little micro grooves are filled with paste, then I make sure there is only the right amount for the concavities to be filled and not too much getting pushed off the sides


----------



## Twitchy9000

Im pretty much at the point with this board where its gonna get thrown against the wall. Probably gonna try OCing it one more time(back at stock atm) and then if that doesn't work, I'm just gonna leave it at stock and grab a X38 when they come out be damned of the price. This is ridiculous, these plus mobos don't OC quads worth a damn.


----------



## Treatment X

yup... please, complain to ASUS. I have written two emails, wrote all over their forums, and all over other forums regarding their frustrating quad performance on 680i.

I have no choice but to sway my loyalties, even if the next x38 boards come out, I'll settle for a board that's NOT ASUS, even if it's 2nd/3rd best whatever. This has taught me a valuable lesson, and I hope it has taught ASUS a valuable lesson, that customer service counts for alot.


----------



## Twitchy9000

Oh, no doubt, I'm RMAing it back to newegg to get my money back, it's pathetic how far behind the other boards this one is, engineered before the quad was released or not.

Im assuming most would suggest the P5K as an alternative...any others?


----------



## Treatment X

most recommend the ABIT pro or the Gigabyte... however I wanna hear about the MSI P35 Platinum quad performance, which no one has talked about much...


----------



## USlatin

I just PM'ed Tank Guys to see if we could do a group buy for X38's....

cross your fingers...


----------



## Robilar

I'm interested in the X38 as well *IF* it supports SLI. If not then it will just be a strong contender with the already excellent P35 chipset boards. The Asus Blitz Formula for example is a phenomenal board. HardOCP was easily able to attain 547 FSB (which means that real overclockers can go much higher).


----------



## The_Rocker

Well it seems to me that this board Oc'ed my quad.... A good stable 3Ghz with a 1.30v V Core....

I wouldn't know what the limit is becase i don't want to push it further.....


----------



## Robilar

figure with the 9x multi and a ceiling of around 370 FSB, 3.3 Ghz will be about your max.


----------



## The_Rocker

Fine for me then....


----------



## nitteo

My P5n32e-SLI does not post.









I rechecked all connections. I get power-up but nothing on screen, just black.

I suspect I got a DOA from the E-tailers.









Anything else for me to check?


----------



## Robilar

Do you have any idea what bios it came with (should be 0602) and what chip are you using on it?


----------



## Anubis_offline

Hello Rob,
Is it possible to put all volts setting en fsb that people post under 1 page off your oc guide?
There are a so many setting for different processors will be nice to see them all at once.
It will save a lot of time searching and new ocâ€™er have nice start guide line.
I am willing to help you if find it a good idea, I know it`s time consuming.
Mebie wish to set couple rules like stable under Orthos and valid Cpu-z ect.
But I am ahead of this idea so let my know of this Dutchmen is not completely nuts.


----------



## Robilar

Its a good idea. Especially with the new cpu's and their lovely FSB wall.

I'll start pulling together the data and get a thread going.

Good idea!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I have a couple people suggest that the P5N32-E is no different from the Striker Extreme. Is this true? I know Striker has some pretty lights and an LCD screen, but are those the only differences?

Also, has anyone else OCed a QX6700 on this board?

Cheers,

d


----------



## Robilar

Its not a suggestion. The boards use the same PCB and chipset. The striker does have all solid capacitors and a bunch of bling but otherwise they are very similar.

The P5N32-E for some reason overclocks better though (I've tested both extensively).


----------



## Treatment X

Don't need the bling. It's like I/O EL Lighting stuff, LCD display for diagnostic stuff, bah. The only thing that has an inkling of interest was the capacitors, but as Rob said, there's hardly any difference unless you really really push it.

from what i've seen, the people who use liquid nitrogen or phase stuff prefer the striker over the p5n.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I figured as much when I pulled back the "P5N32-E" sticker and underneath it says, "Striker Extreme"!

Another Q: I pulled out my NB/SB heatsinks & pipes over the weekend and installed the Tt Spirit II, but the mosfet heatsinks all lost stickiness on the tape. The problem is that the tape is firmly bound to the HS. I ordered some Arctic Silver adhesive, so my questions are:
1) Is it a problem if I have to glue the HS onto the mosfet with the tape still on it?
2) Can I safely use my computer for the few days it'll take for the glue to arrive?

Thanks in advance!

d


----------



## Akatsuki No Tobi

What is wrong with my motherboard... I just added two Spirit II's on the North and South Bridges, along with MC21 Mosfets on the VRM's, and now I can't even overclock. Anytime I overclock or even underclock, the BIOS won't recognize anything and boots with stock settings.

I thought I burned out the motherboard, but it boots perfectly with the stock settings. Argh I hate this motherboard so badly.

And yes, I did do all those things that Robilar's FAQ stated.


----------



## Treatment X

Mosfets, i'd use some vinegar or the like to remove the adhesive... I have heard to stay away from isopropyl, but vinegar should be ok. I wouldn't put the new adhesive over it, someone did it and the sink fell off (I think it was USLatin, but I visit multiple forums a day... so i can't be sure).

You can safely use if you don't overclock, and don't mind expecting some crashes. I would at the very least put a fan (normal, "human" fan) with the case open and blow some air in. That should suffice.

Akatsuki No Tobi - I think we'd like to help, please share the settings you are using. Your 8900gtx has been canned, I think they're skipping the 8900 and going right into the 9 series. Remember to share your RAM profile and settings, that could be hurting your clocking as well.


----------



## Robilar

You put the spirits on the sb or nb (or both) too tightly. Loosen the screw mounts up a few turns and then try it. I had the same issue on the sb (didn't cause any damage but as soon as I loosened it slightly, all was fine).


----------



## joematrix

I haven't posted in quite a while, but I've been watching the thread. I finally gave in and ordered 2 sets of swiftech mc21 heatsinks for the VRMs. I had been running quite stable with nothing on them and my freezer 7 pro directing a little air down that way, but I figure with these maybe I can push my e6400 farther than 3.2Ghz and lower the vcore. I'll let you know the results once they are installed.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I'd order some Arctic Silver adhesive as well. I just pulled my HS/HP out this weekend to replace them with the Tt Spirit II and I bought the same Swiftech MC21 (see just a few posts earlier). The adhesive tape on all eight of them was insufficient to attach to the VRMs (I ordered them through NewEgg), so I had to order some thermal adhesive. Maybe you can order both at the same time just in case (never hurts to have some extra AS lying around).

Cheers,

d


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
I'd order some Arctic Silver adhesive as well. I just pulled my HS/HP out this weekend to replace them with the Tt Spirit II and I bought the same Swiftech MC21 (see just a few posts earlier). The adhesive tape on all eight of them was insufficient to attach to the VRMs (I ordered them through NewEgg), so I had to order some thermal adhesive. Maybe you can order both at the same time just in case (never hurts to have some extra AS lying around).

Cheers,

d

If you're going to use non removable adhesive on the hs, you might as well mod the supplied ones.


----------



## Robilar

Funny my swiftech MCP21's stuck without issue. Of course I installed them in the correct fashion.

Run your computer with orthos for about an hour. shut it down. immediately attached the sinks while leaving the case on its side. turn it on and run orthos for another hour.

done

What this does is heat up the vrms so when you attach them, it makes the adhesive pliable and sticky. then running it again firms up the adhesive.

They haven't slipped at all.


----------



## Treatment X

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


I haven't posted in quite a while, but I've been watching the thread. I finally gave in and ordered 2 sets of swiftech mc21 heatsinks for the VRMs. I had been running quite stable with nothing on them and my freezer 7 pro directing a little air down that way, but I figure with these maybe I can push my e6400 farther than 3.2Ghz and lower the vcore. I'll let you know the results once they are installed.


Interested to see your results! =)







Though I think it matters more for Quads, nevertheless, dual clocking might have an impact with cooler VRMs....

And very sound advice from Robilar, as usual.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Its a good idea. Especially with the new cpu's and their lovely FSB wall.

I'll start pulling together the data and get a thread going.

Good idea!


Yup good idea.Im in.I been testing this monster chip,for the last couples of weeks.


----------



## USlatin

I had both the aluminum black swiftechs and the copper counterparts... the aluminum version weighs something like 2g while the copper ones weigh 8.5g...

I think that is the problem... but I got sorta good news:

I called 3M thanks to Robilar's suggestion and it seems I have little sheeds of the three different thermal adheisive tapes they make... for free







samples is the magic word people!

I currently have my case sideways on the ground.... how sad.... but I will report soon when I get them


----------



## USlatin

*my first Speed Fan temp reads close to 50!
That has me both worried and mad as crap...*

On the upside, the CPU still runs UBER cool as the MoBo doesn't affect that... I am all proud of finally having the Tuniq's stock fan on the side panel of my A900, finally! And I am getting even better temps (attachment)

Ambient is 73F, the TT is lapped, it has a Silverstone at 100% and now it has the TT's stock fan feeding it from the side panel, but I have to disclose that the case is close to the AC vent too...









still... not bad... but our MoBo has me worried... the NB is WAAAAY too hot hitting 50C on 1.55V with a lapped Noctua with a 17CMF on it... should I worry about the NB's health from this voltage and temp?


----------



## stargate125645

Can someone please go into the RAM timings on their motherboard and see how high the tRC subtiming goes? Mine only goes to 31, and I need 44 for it to post at CAS4 according to CPU-Z. Others seem to have it post with CAS4 just fine and it makes no sense to me why mine won't.


----------



## USlatin

I am really worried about the NB... like i said I have 1.55V to make 12hs Prime stable and here are the temps. Also you'll see that I am getting a not so stellar 60C on the cores while the AC isn't running...









But please take a look at my NB temps and voltage of 1.55V and give me your opinion... is it safe? should I do something about it or can I keep running like this for a month or two?


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I am really worried about the NB... like i said I have 1.55V to make 12hs Prime stable and here are the temps. Also you'll see that I am getting a not so stellar 60C on the cores while the AC isn't running...


You should not be paying attention to the core temperatures. The IHS, or CPU temperature in SpeedFan, is the important one. The core temperature sensors do not exist in Conroe chips, only Merom.


----------



## USlatin

I didn't follow completely, but I do know that temp number 1, the dark green, is a temperature measuring point between the NB and RAM.. hence that's as close of an indication of my NB temps as I am gonna get unless I bought a probe. Also when I touch the HS during load it is warm all the way to the top which scares me.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I didn't follow completely, but I do know that temp number 1, the dark green, is a temperature measuring point between the NB and RAM.. hence that's as close of an indication of my NB temps as I am gonna get unless I bought a probe. Also when I touch the HS during load it is warm all the way to the top which scares me.


Mine is like that without it being overclocked. Keep in mind that body temperature is about 37 degrees C, so anything above that will feel warm. 40 degrees C and above, which are normal temperatures for the NB (especially with the default HS setup), are thus going to feel rather warm - if not hot. You can't gauge temperatures by touch necessarily.

I noticed you have CAS4 with RAM that is similar to mine. Could you perhaps tell me what your timings and subtimings are, as well as what your tRC subtiming limit is in the BIOS?


----------



## USlatin

I unfortunately not know enough to have set my sub-timings... I have it set to 4-4-4-12-2T-AAAAAAUUUUUTTTTTTOOOOO @ 1000MHz but let me check how hight it would let me set it and I'll brb to tell you


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I unfortunately not know enough to have set my sub-timings... I have it set to 4-4-4-12-2T-AAAAAAUUUUUTTTTTTOOOOO @ 1000MHz but let me check how hight it would let me set it and I'll brb to tell you


How loose I can get them is my issue. I need to go to 44 but I can only go to 31 on tRC.

If you are using the default chipset cooling, try something like this pointed towards the MOSFETS and see if it drops temperatures at all. If it does, then buy one or two more!
Flexible fan: http://www.virtual-hideout.net/revie...ol/index.shtml


----------



## USlatin

BIOS 1203, you can let them go out to:
15-31-7-15-2-15-127 and 2.50

about the fan... do you mean for the mosfets? would that help me with the NB temps? I think I should be good with the Swiftechs but I'll keep that thing in mind I did want to place little 40mm on the stock HS but it was too complicated. Then again that thing is huge... there is no space for them in my setup. But I should figure out something the the rear set of mosfets because the TT must have some serious cooling effect on the top ones and I don't thing the temp difference might be a good thing.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


BIOS 1203, you can let them go out to:
15-31-7-15-2-15-127 and 2.50

about the fan... do you mean for the mosfets? would that help me with the NB temps? I think I should be good with the Swiftechs but I'll keep that thing in mind I did want to place little 40mm on the stock HS but it was too complicated.


OK, same with me. What does CPU-Z say your timings are, then? Current frequency and timings in the memory tab, as well as the frequency and timings in the SPD tab would be very helpful to me! This program will tell you what all the timings are:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ghlight=memset
I use that now, but I am not sure what they should be, so you running that and letting me know would also be helpful...









That fan I suggested was for if you were still using the default chipset cooling, as the entire heat pipe assembly is connected.


----------



## USlatin

look in the last page, the ones covered by CoreTemp are all empty

BTW I updated the last post...

g2g brb


----------



## stargate125645

Well I don't get it then... Did I just get crappy RAM on RMA?









Edit: USLatin, is this the RAM set you are using? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231065
If so, I may try my luck with these and depending upon which performs better I will give the other back to newegg.


----------



## Treatment X

omg you guys are nuts. NB temps are VERY VERY IMPORTANT, it controls traffic! OF COURSE it's important! And temps over 51-53C are considered already unstable temps! I try to be below 50C at all times, even during load, even during summer, etc. Just because I hate getting my games frozen in the middle of whatever it is i'm doing (head-shotting that sniper for example).

As a TEST I did, I let my rig download crap all day, the NB idles at 48C (when I get home). as a test, I opened the case, put a small fan, and watched how far I can bring those temps down with just a small fan outside of the case. And it went down to 43C from 48C with stock NB heatspreader (though i removed the previous paste and put in AS5). That to me is significant.

My best advice, emphasize the NB. It controls alot of data/traffic flow... ever had a corrupted file? Could very well be due to a overheated NB... cuz it controls files getting written to your HD as well. Memory, etc etc etc. everything.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


omg you guys are nuts. NB temps are VERY VERY IMPORTANT, it controls traffic! OF COURSE it's important! And temps over 51-53C are considered already unstable temps! I try to be below 50C at all times, even during load, even during summer, etc. Just because I hate getting my games frozen in the middle of whatever it is i'm doing (head-shotting that sniper for example).

As a TEST I did, I let my rig download crap all day, the NB idles at 48C (when I get home). as a test, I opened the case, put a small fan, and watched how far I can bring those temps down with just a small fan outside of the case. And it went down to 43C from 48C with stock NB heatspreader (though i removed the previous paste and put in AS5). That to me is significant.

My best advice, emphasize the NB. It controls alot of data/traffic flow... ever had a corrupted file? Could very well be due to a overheated NB... cuz it controls files getting written to your HD as well. Memory, etc etc etc. everything.


I don't recall saying NB temperatures aren't important...


----------



## Treatment X

Just re-emphasizing it's important lol =)

btw, my ambience is 34C. Yes i'm sweating just typing here.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


Just re-emphasizing it's important lol =)

btw, my ambience is 34C. Yes i'm sweating just typing here.


Ewwww... Is it 90% humid there all the time like it is here? I almost never overclock in the summer because of temperatures, but I got a new motherboard so I am obligated to find out what my maximum overclock is!


----------



## USlatin

NB are super important and often the limiting factor to your OC... in out case MOST DEF... I am uber concerned with NB temps for that very reason, corruption, or even a horrible BSOD when I have someone watching over my shoulder, even if it doesn't corrupt anything...

I did all I could do though... Noctua is as big as I thought I could get, I lapped it (could have done a better job and intend to do perfect it... could get a slightly stronger fan, currently 17CMF... I relly needed to get the TT's 120mm on the side panel and I did today (had a 47CMF 90mm)... all I can do other than that is H2O...

this is ridiculous... it is a problem and I am sick of this board and it's NB... X, feel free to join in, I know you still got some left to be let out... heheh... I can't stand it... such an amazing board, such great Duo clocks, yet it falls face first onto a pile of :turd:... it was my hero and i was proud of it... not I want to snap it in half...

All of you with crazy OC's on Duos, please know that we understand you got it going on and all is great, but you WILL end up upgrading to 4 cores and you will NOT be future-proofed for it... so understand this and consider joining us in a group buy for X38 (likely ASUS) boards.. while I don't have a clue as to whether this might be possible I do know that I am thinking about it more and more... so keep it in mind...


----------



## stargate125645

USlatin, can you give me a link to the RAM set you are using? I want to buy myself a set and give it a shot.


----------



## USlatin

I was exited when I saw your RAM come out... I had had HZ's for a bit then and I was in cloud nine with them, so I inmediately thought they would be even better... I think they are HZs with higher clocks... and probably not even that since I've only heard complaints about them... then again it might be due to the higher expectancies of those buying them...

The HZ's got me to 4-4-4-12-2T 1100MHz (6hs MemTest) and the faster SuperPi's came from 4-4-4-12-1T 950MHz... both with 2.3V... I unfortunately never tested actual bandwidth but I still think the second settings might have been better but just by a tad...

Don't be discouraged by the settings in my sig... that is only due to the MoBo's NB like we've been discussing... it really wimps out when you put a Quad in it... kinda like Popeye when he can't find his spinach... aghhh!!

Anywho... you had the right link... but here it is again so you don't have to worry about the possibility of getting bad memory ever again ENJOY!









Look here for some pics I took of the heat spreaders you will be getting which are newer than those in the egg's page


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Funny my swiftech MCP21's stuck without issue. Of course I installed them in the correct fashion.

Run your computer with orthos for about an hour. shut it down. immediately attached the sinks while leaving the case on its side. turn it on and run orthos for another hour.
(SNIP!)


Oh. I did not know that; I thought they were supposed to be sticky off the bat. I did not receive any instructions with the heatsinks, so I guess I screwed that one up, but now I know for next time.

Cheers,

d


----------



## RX-ShortFuse

I have the stiker extreme & I can tell you the north bridge runs extreme hot.
I've also tested 3 x p5n32-E sli 680i boards & with a temp reader on the north bridge showing temps 76c @ 166f thats not even under full load.
I myself have removed my heatpipe setup from my striker & installed spirt II on north bridge. I've also installed a temp probe under the spirt II & record temps 62c - 72c depending on room temp & load.
I'm also overclocking E6850 @ 4.0gig & run stable under full load 100%.


----------



## nitteo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Do you have any idea what bios it came with (should be 0602) and what chip are you using on it?


I have no clue what bios. BUT, I pulled the rams out: power on, no beep. I pull the Cards out: power on, no beep. At this time, it is only the CPU connected and still no beeps. To me that is a dead mobo, isnt it?


----------



## Robilar

Which cpu are you installing?


----------



## nitteo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Which cpu are you installing?


e6850?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nitteo*


I have no clue what bios. BUT, I pulled the rams out: power on, no beep. I pull the Cards out: power on, no beep. At this time, it is only the CPU connected and still no beeps. To me that is a dead mobo, isnt it?


I'm sure you've tried this, but did you make sure the board standoffs are in the right place? I once had a loose standoff that was shorting the board underneath and I didn't know it until I pulled the board out & just connected it directly to the PSU (no case).

Sorry if it sounds obvious, but I just had a friend build a system and he screwed the board directly to the case, so this was the first thing that pops to mind.

Cheers,

d


----------



## cognoscenti

What standoffs? Are they the little bits on the case where the MB screws go into?


----------



## nitteo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


What standoffs? Are they the little bits on the case where the MB screws go into?


Yup. It prevents the backside from getting grounded out by the case.

Yes I reseated the mobo and still have the same problem!

This is where watercooling gets cumbersome, I have to take apart my whole setup to do all this safely.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nitteo* 
e6850?

Why the question mark? Your system lists a QX6700 which is why I asked. The E6850 needs a bios version of 1201 or higher to work with the board.


----------



## nitteo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Why the question mark? Your system lists a QX6700 which is why I asked. The E6850 needs a bios version of 0903 or higher to work with the board.

? Because I am asking if there were extra steps (like you stated above) if i was installing the e6850.

But it still does not answer why the mobo wont beep warnings about no GPU or Ram installed.


----------



## Robilar

Silly question but do you have a speaker attached to the speaker pins on the motherboard?

Otherwise you won't hear any beeps


----------



## USlatin

I am getting the three different types of thermal adhesive tale from 3M for free, just asked for samples and I am getting 1inch tape, but 3 yards worth of each!


----------



## Treatment X

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?...post1031372340

Dunno if I can post that, but that's the latest X38 news I know... looks like different versions of X38 won't show up til October, will be placing my order for either A1 EVGA 680i or Gigabyte p35 DS3r today.


----------



## USlatin

duuude... the EVGA for sure if you must... but u r a traitor! heheh

enjoy!


----------



## Treatment X

lol, I am jumping ship on ASUS for a good while... they just lost themselves a customer. I wish more people knew about this, I'm gonna post it on all the WoW forums, all the Counterstrike, etc etc forums. Utterly unacceptable....

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=223749

look for yourself.


----------



## NCspecV81

I made the switch to EVGA. I got the T1 which is the same as the A1 minus the cool looking box and some of the cables. I made this switch until the x38 is released.


----------



## USlatin

I think I may go EVGA too but only cause I see no SLI with 4.0 recorded in the ASUS side of things.... also $300 is too much for me and the X38's might be even more than that...

Treatment... we might have to start a thread to OC together then... NVspec... you gotta join in for sure bro!

CRAP! WHAT AM I SAYING.. I forgot that this one doesn't work out for me cause it only has 4 SATA ports.... :cursing:
I need SLI and 6 SATA...


----------



## Treatment X

I just wanna know from someone on this site...

A1 vs T1 for the EVGA... what is the exact difference... no details too small.

Then after that, I will have two boards, and I will have a side by side comparison and post the &^#%@#[email protected] results everywhere. FREE advertising for EVGA from a new fan. ASUS can take it up the butt for all I care, I will be posting it on ALL the forums I visit, all the people I talk to, everyone. It will make at least 0.01% difference damnit!

Yeah, we'll start a anti-asus thread, I'm down for that. I know other people who will join too.

Edit: By the way, I started a EVGA BETTER THAN ASUS at the ASUS Forums. Hope they enjoy that.

Edit #2 : I forgot to mention why I opted to just go ahead with the EVGA. The 680i series has better memory bandwidth than the P35 series for DDR2's. There's no indication that the X38 will be any better, and if it is any better, then I can sell the EVGA late decemember, since the new x38 will be out in early september and revisions of x38 will be out late october... and after the reviews come in, I'll have a better idea of whether or not to let go of the EVGA


----------



## NCspecV81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I think I may go EVGA too but only cause I see no SLI with 4.0 recorded in the ASUS side of things.... also $300 is too much for me and the X38's might be even more than that...

Treatment... we might have to start a thread to OC together then... NVspec... you gotta join in for sure bro!



ahhhh...

dont get me the wrong! the evga is still a little walled as you start needing alot more cpu vcore b/c of the FSB wall.

for example I ran 7 x 457 or something to reach 3.2ghz. I couldn't even boot that up at the same voltage i use for 3.6ghz with 9 x 400. I had to go all the way up past 1.5v due to the monstrosity of this 680i chipset! However, I was just trying to test out things for the FSB on this board.

Tho! I have booted up at 4.2xx ghz, made it in the bios.. get to see Windows XP for a matter of a couple of seconds then bLAH! restart!


----------



## NCspecV81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


I just wanna know from someone on this site...

A1 vs T1 for the EVGA... what is the exact difference... no details too small.



Absolutely nothing is different as the A1 and the T1 are the same exact board. The only difference is that the A1 is kinda like a retail boxed version as it comes with more cables, a paperback manual (the T1's comes on the cd), and I believe the A1 gets a more spiffy colorful motorcycle box! If those are important to you, get the A1, otherwise the T1 will be the same exact board.


----------



## Treatment X

Well then

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...uctCode=246712

$179.99

I can sell my P5N32-E SLI for at LEAST $150. $30 doesn't seem bad at all right about now, and that's assuming $150, if lucky you can sell at $180... then again if you're selling at $150 and buying a $180, might as well spend the extra $50 and get the P5K... oh WAIT a second, that's a ASUS board, [email protected]%# ASUS. The Gigabyte P35-Dxxx


----------



## NCspecV81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


Well then

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...uctCode=246712

$179.99

I can sell my P5N32-E SLI for at LEAST $150. $30 doesn't seem bad at all right about now, and that's assuming $150, if lucky you can sell at $180



May I suggest newegg? they have it for 199 as well, but you can use the PAYPAL20 for 20 bucks off instantly.


----------



## Treatment X

Free shipping from ZZF though =\\, I compare the two all the time, fan of both.


----------



## cognoscenti

wow way to trash out Robillars P5N32-E information thread....


----------



## USlatin

Cogno, I somewhat agree but please don't take it personal, the board IS advertised as Quad ready and it fails to be a true enthusiast board at that... also there are many developments and Robilar himself said he would be upgrading to an X38.

I am sure that although Treatment X and I both speak out about the letdowns of the boards capabilities we both feel this thread is downright spectacular as can guide you to the best possible clocks with most any CPU... with Treatment's contribution that now includes the OC'ing of the Q6600 to this boards max capabilities... I am an example of that as I merely plugged in some settings and of I was at 3.26GHz... only 0.04GHz from my current clock and possible max stable clock...

Treatment, it is quite clear how both you and I feel about the board's in-capabilities with Quads and I also understand your frustrations with ASUS which were obviously augmented by EVGA's excellent response to the very same problem. We should let it be for now and only continue to post about P5N32-E SLI info from now on so we don't get people accusing us of being haters and so we don't litter the thread so it is easier for others with other CPUs to continue using it as a meeting point.


----------



## Treatment X

Oh yeah, I admire the hard work (anyone who overclocks know the amount of time and dedication required to make a guide like this) that Rob, USLat, Cog, CLP, etc. who's contributed to this thread, I've read all the pages.

It's definitely the maker of the boards that's let us down, not the people who have the clocking prowess and make a guide. It is a good board, but for duals and is not as quad ready as the competitor. Prior to my acquisition of the Q6600, I was happily clocking on my E6700, only to realize the rumors were in fact true regarding Quad performance.

I'll contribute by saying, don't buy it if you're going Quad.

Edit : ****. the P5k Deluxe went up $6. I give up. Ugh, I just made the purchase of the EVGA T1, ebaying the P5N32-E once it's here... will share my findings.

ORDER DATE: Wed,15 Aug 2007 00:00:00 PDT
BILL TO: SHIP TO:

Evening Phone: (xxx)xxx-xxxx Shipping Method: FedEx, 2 Day Delivery

Item No. Description Price Qty Ext. Price
246712 EVGA nForce 680i SLI Socket 775 1333MHz DDR2-800 Extreme Overclocking ATX Motherboard Retail ***Free Shipping*** $199.99 1 $199.99

Sub Total: $199.99
Discount: $0.00
Sales Tax: $14.50
Shipping: $3.99

ORDER TOTAL: $218.48

Yea, it's free shipping, but I paid the extra $4 for faster shipping.


----------



## nuclearjock

Intel's current quad products, (2 dies sharing same bus) have traditionally exhibited lower clocks than their dual core counterparts. This has been known for some time.

Everyone has High expectations for X38, but how do we know exactly that these limitations will be minimized or eliminated by a chipset when it very well may be the inherent design of the processor that's responsible for reduced "clockability" of 4 cores in their current configuration.

And can someone tell me that a native quad will clock as well as a dual core chip???

An Italian group has oc'd a single core chip past 8 ghz. I've never seen a dual core chip posted at those freqs.

There will be alot of advantages to quad core processors once games/programs have been coded for them. It is here they will kill dual core processors. But will they ever overclock as well as their single or dual core counterparts??

Time and engineering will tell.


----------



## Robilar

Heh, I don't take offense. As USlatin mentioned, I will likely go X38 (and start a similar thread) if it supports SLI upon release.

I am a big fan of the P5N32-E but its been out almost a year now (got mine last November). Newer boards come along all the time. I've held off on quad until recently (I have an order in for a QX6850 with a supplier here in Canada) and we'll see how it fares with my board.

I also ordered a second asus 8800gtx and the BenQ 24" LCD (the WZ model of course).

Now that I finally got my thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme laser lapped, I'm ready to get back to some serious benching.

Now if Call of Duty 4 would just come out already...


----------



## Treatment X

nuclearjock - Agreed. Which is why I went ahead and got the EVGA 680i, which still has SLI and gives better quad performance than ASUS... then ebay if the X38 does prove to live up to it's hype. =) VERY Nice clock on that E6850 btw.

and CoD4 is juicy as hell... i didn't think you were into that type of game Rob! lol.


----------



## Robilar

Are you kidding, my sig here is "Ancient Gamer"! Look for Robilar on the unmodified maps. I'm not bad for an old guy if I do say so myself!


----------



## NCspecV81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuclearjock*


Intel's current quad products, (2 dies sharing same bus) have traditionally exhibited lower clocks than their dual core counterparts. This has been known for some time.

Everyone has High expectations for X38, but how do we know exactly that these limitations will be minimized or eliminated by a chipset when it very well may be the inherent design of the processor that's responsible for reduced "clockability" of 4 cores in their current configuration.


I think we should be able to come to the conclusion and eliminate the actual processor being at fault. A few reasons being:

1. Revised chipsets of the same 680i being able to obtain better clocks.

2. Modded motherboards with the same chipset being non-revised w/ better clocks.

3. Recently released chipsets (ex. P35) getting better clocks.

However, if you can explain how I can go from one 680i board to a "revised" 680i board and getting exponentially better overclocks, while still maintaining the processors fault. I will concede that it's the inherent design of the quad itself.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NCspecV81* 
I think we should be able to come to the conclusion and eliminate the actual processor being at fault. A few reasons being:

1. Revised chipsets of the same 680i being able to obtain better clocks.

2. Modded motherboards with the same chipset being non-revised w/ better clocks.

3. Recently released chipsets (ex. P35) getting better clocks.

However, if you can explain how I can go from one 680i board to a "revised" 680i board and getting exponentially better overclocks, while still maintaining the processors fault. I will concede that it's the inherent design of the quad itself.

NC, I get the impression that you misunderstood his post.
I never read anything that implied that he was talking about Asus 680i shortcomings.


----------



## T0aSty

Hey guys i'm new to this forum and i have a question about the volts setting with Vcore. Figured this be the best place for a right answer. Does this board down the volts really low? I have mine in the bios set to 1.6 however cpuz reads its at 1.36 and everrest(or whatever its called) rates it at like 1.43. Any ideas? Which is right? board or one of these? I kinda figured it cant be the board.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *T0aSty* 
Hey guys i'm new to this forum and i have a question about the volts setting with Vcore. Figured this be the best place for a right answer. Does this board down the volts really low? I have mine in the bios set to 1.6 however cpuz reads its at 1.36 and everrest(or whatever its called) rates it at like 1.43. Any ideas? Which is right? board or one of these? I kinda figured it cant be the board.

1.6 is extremely high on air.
I'm guessing that you are looking at 2 different settings.
1.6 to 1.43 droop


----------



## T0aSty

i have my cpu clocked at 3.6 but thats the only way i can get it somewhat stable. i know its really high but i don't think my board is giving it that much. cpuz and others are only reading in the 1.36-1.43 area


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *T0aSty* 
i have my cpu clocked at 3.6 but thats the only way i can get it somewhat stable. i know its really high but i don't think my board is giving it that much. cpuz and others are only reading in the 1.36-1.43 area

Sorry, I forgot to welcome you.
Everest and PCProbe II appear to be the best indicators of actual voltage. Mine run neck and neck.
Screenie or list all your voltages.


----------



## T0aSty

thanks for the welcome
vcore 1.6
ht: 1.3
Mem:2.25
NB: 1.45
SB: 1.5
HTT:1.55


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *T0aSty* 
thanks for the welcome
vcore 1.6
ht: 1.3
Mem:2.25
NB: 1.45
SB: 1.5
HTT:1.55

How are your temps?
The rest of your settings seem about right. You can also check in the hardware monitoring tab in BIOS. That should give you actual.
My 6850 starts requiring a ton of voltage after 3.6. At 4005 I'm at 1.63 with pencil mod.
The main thing is your temps.


----------



## Treatment X

Well which version of CPU-Z are you using, the old versions gave incorrect vcore.

I recently moved to Everest and I almost swear by it.

Welcome to the boards! I recently moved here more often from another site...


----------



## NCspecV81

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
NC, I get the impression that you misunderstood his post.
I never read anything that implied that he was talking about Asus 680i shortcomings.

In that case I probably did misunderstand. If so, my apologies.


----------



## stargate125645

The original post needs to be updated... The 1203 BIOS is no longer beta, and the SPP <-> MCP reference frequency option is back.


----------



## slujgutz

Sweet guide, I was going to build a micro-atx system a few weeks ago but think I'll be going ATX now. This guide definately makes the P5N32-E SLi a viable option.


----------



## USlatin

hey Robilar you sound like me in terms of gaming, I to am old hehe, all I play is COD2 and can't wait for COD4... all I'd play id the un-modded maps but I do prefer the ones where you can sprint







Biohazard maps are the only ones I play look for USlatin if you want to get pwn3d... hehe

what does the SPP <--> MCP do?


----------



## NCspecV81

I occasionally play COD2. need to get a q6600 cod2 clan pumpin away on xfire!


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


hey Robilar you sound like me in terms of gaming, I to am old hehe, all I play is COD2 and can't wait for COD4... all I'd play id the un-modded maps but I do prefer the ones where you can sprint







Biohazard maps are the only ones I play look for USlatin if you want to get pwn3d... hehe

what does the SPP <--> MCP do?


Uslatin,here is all you need to know about spp and mcp=http://www.hothardware.com/printarti...?articleid=902
Hope it help you.


----------



## USlatin

WOW alex what a great link! Rep+

Robilar, think this page is first post material?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


WOW alex what a great link! Rep+

Robilar, think this page is first post material?


No problem,a lot of information for the 680I chipset.
How you doing with your new chip?


----------



## USlatin

3.3GHz with 1.4V getting awsome temps though... the NB is asking for 1.55V to keep up with the Quad and the HZ's at 4-4-4-12-2T 1000MHz on full 2.3V

so given that the Q6600 Go can pull 4.0GHz and the HZ's can do the same timings at 1100MHz I'd say crappy in terms of the maximums attainable...









So how is your 4.0GHz going, getting closer to stability?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


3.3GHz with 1.4V getting awsome temps though... the NB is asking for 1.55V to keep up with the Quad and the HZ's at 4-4-4-12-2T 1000MHz on full 2.3V

so given that the Q6600 Go can pull 4.0GHz and the HZ's can do the same timings at 1100MHz I'd say crappy in terms of the maximums attainable...









So how is your 4.0GHz going, getting closer to stability?


No stable @ 4.0 ghz,but stable @ 3.7 and 3.8.For stable @ 4ghz need some water for sure.I run some awsome benches @ 3.8 for now.You really can almost touch the power of this chip,in your hands when you power the system/LOL.
Congrats in your new chip and your OC.[Peryn comming soon.]


----------



## Treatment X

I'm doing 3.26ghz and 4-4-3-3-1T 889mhz on the OCZ 900MHZ, try bumping up the TRC, you never know. I mem-tested it, stable, and it proved to have higher throughoutput.


----------



## USlatin

TRC... nah... I am leaving it like that for now, thanks though... hopefully I won't be in this setup too long...


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hello. Sorry about my off-topic question, but I have installed the Tt Spirit II's on both my NB/SB and am curious if I can fit a Thermalright HR-03 on my 8800 with the SB Tt Spirit II.

I'm just wondering if anyone else has done the same and found the clearance to be an issue or not.

!! EDIT: The reason I ask is because I took off the cowling on my eVGA 8800GTX and saw exactly how terribly the HS is connected to the chip; there is some kind of cotton-like padding "connecting" the two; it repulsed me and convinced me I needed something better than some "stuffing".

Cheers,

d


----------



## USlatin

it might not make it unless you can aim the Spirit so it goes towards the front of the case... while I have no clue whether it fits just wanted to mention that you will need to get something for the memory modules and mosfets like the swiftech package so cound that into the totap cost of the upgraded cooling.. and possibly a fan too for the HR-03

that would be the ultimate cooling for the vid card though so it would be nice to have.... but expensive!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
it might not make it unless you can aim the Spirit so it goes towards the front of the case... while I have no clue whether it fits just wanted to mention that you will need to get something for the memory modules and mosfets like the swiftech package so cound that into the totap cost of the upgraded cooling.. and possibly a fan too for the HR-03

that would be the ultimate cooling for the vid card though so it would be nice to have.... but expensive!

Maybe a better solution here if it fits.
http://www.sharkacomputers.com/dtekunisink.html


----------



## USlatin

Check out the cheaposity of my air riggin' woot


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Check out the cheaposity of my air riggin' woot


Very nice job, you sure that your rigg is not going to get airborn?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
(SNIP!) just wanted to mention that you will need to get something for the memory modules and mosfets like the swiftech package so cound that into the totap cost of the upgraded cooling.. and possibly a fan too for the HR-03 (SNIP!)

I have heatsinks on the mosfets, but what memory modules are you talking about? Forgive my ignorance.

Cheers,

d


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anubis_offline* 
Very nice job, you sure that your rigg is not going to get airborn?









hehehe I am sooooo proud of using tape








we should have a rednek/trailor park smilie!!! I't be rocking it out righ now









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
I have heatsinks on the mosfets, but what memory modules are you talking about? Forgive my ignorance.

Cheers,

d

LOVE how you "cut" my post heheheh very apropiate *Rep+*for being so proper. But feel free to snip mine without the need for those markers... any time







I personally see no harm so long as you don't defame the poster








I mean the memory chips... make sure to get something on those and the mosfets then you should be ok... you don't need a super duper fan on that beast though so don't stress about that if you have any fans laying around try it out with those first


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
(SNIP!) I mean the memory chips... make sure to get something on those and the mosfets then you should be ok... you don't need a super duper fan on that beast though so don't stress about that if you have any fans laying around try it out with those first

Oh! The RAM! I'm a royal idiot. They don't get hot, really. They have "heat spreaders" which supposedly does something or another, but they're never hot to the touch. There's a case fan pointed at them, too. (I wish I had never bought Dominators, but that's neither here nor there.)

BTW, I'm OCD, so you will continue to receive "SNIP"s.

Cheers,

d


----------



## USlatin

heheh no bro the RAM on the card! the flat chips that were covered in the white pasty paper you were complaining about.... those are ram modules... and there are also some mosfets the smaller ones with three legs (sometimes more legs)


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


heheh no bro the RAM on the card! the flat chips that were covered in the white pasty paper you were complaining about.... those are ram modules... and there are also some mosfets the smaller ones with three legs (sometimes more legs)


Ooookkkaayy. Now I'm tracking. I thought you were talking about the mosfets on my board from pulling the heatpipe out. The HR03 looks like it comes with all the heatsinks that become exposed. You can see some pictures here:
http://www.thermalright.com/product_default.htm

I'm still nervous it won't fit around my Tt Spirit II; I'm having second thoughts...


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Check out the cheaposity of my air riggin' woot


Nice, here's my air riggin...


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Nice, here's my air riggin...


What kind of fans are you using? I'm looking at getting 3 new 120mm fans with blue leds, but don't know which to get. Right now I am looking at the Antec TriCool fans, but newegg is currently out of stock.


----------



## Robilar

I have all coolermaster 120 LED. The antec tri-cool are better though (I didn't get them because I had to buy 8 matching fans and the tri-cool are expensive). The coolermaster are low rpm, low cfm but they are quiet.


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I have all coolermaster 120 LED. The antec tri-cool are better though (I didn't get them because I had to buy 8 matching fans and the tri-cool are expensive). The coolermaster are low rpm, low cfm but they are quiet.

I guess I will go with the tri-cool then once newegg has them back in stock. My 120mm fans that came with my thermaltake armor case just don't seem to put out very much air, so they must go.









I should be getting my swiftech mosfet heatsinks today, so I will make sure to put them on as you advised and I'll let you know the results.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


I guess I will go with the tri-cool then once newegg has them back in stock. My 120mm fans that came with my thermaltake armor case just don't seem to put out very much air, so they must go.









I should be getting my swiftech mosfet heatsinks today, so I will make sure to put them on as you advised and I'll let you know the results.


I had to replace my NZXT case fans too; it's amazing how the same size fans can be so different in their performance...

But I used this one to replace my 92mm: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811999613

It has 119CFM, which is a much higher number than the other CFMs (a quick google for CFM suggests it stands for, "Classified Flea Market," but I doubt that's how they rate fan output). Higher usually = better.

**EDIT: CFM stands for Cubic Feet per Minute; higher is always better!

**EDIT2: Sorry, they don't have the Vantec Tornado in 120; I just checked.

Cheers,

d


----------



## Robilar

119 CFM case fans are extremely loud. I have a silverstone FM121 mounted on a thermalright ultra 120 extreme. (I took it off my rig for now while i get the thermalright lapped). When you crank it up to full speed, its overwhelmingly loud and its only 110 CFM.


----------



## stargate125645

You guys should consider the AeroCool XtremeTurbine or Streamliner. High quality fans! They don't blow as much air as the Silverstone FM121, but they look so much better (though the XtremeTurbine does 89 cfm)...


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stargate125645* 
You guys should consider the AeroCool XtremeTurbine or Streamliner. High quality fans! They don't blow as much air as the Silverstone FM121, but they look so much better (though the XtremeTurbine does 89 cfm)...

Ok, I'm pretty set on the XtremeTurbines now, but the question is: Blue or Black?


----------



## Robilar

I looked at those as well but considering my coolermaster stacker 830 has no window (there is mesh but the fans block the internal view) I stayed with the silverstone for my cpu and the quieter coolermasters for my case.

You should really check a fan that has 89 CFM for its dba level. If its too loud and you have 3 or 4 of them, it may end up being unbearably loud. Its one thing to have a cpu fan on a controller that you can dial up for high overclocks and benches, its another thing entirely to have a bunch of fans running all the time sounding like a jet engine.


----------



## USlatin

I think the Silverstone is ok because I can run it at quiet rpms while editing and still stay below 50C with a 72C max temp spec on my Q66 then if it gets hot and I need it, that's when I crank it up and drop 1-3C

Robilar when you say "only" 110CMF why do you say that? What fans are you comparing it with?


----------



## Robilar

I was comparing it the the 119 CFM fan the prior poster mentioned.

If I threw a bunch of 110 CFM fans in the stacker 830 at full blast, the thing would likely levitate!


----------



## SavageFuDD

Hello all new to this a little.. Are my voltages ok? and what can I do to hit 3.6 or higher without blowing my rig up? lol

Everest
Vcore______1.41
1.2v HT____1.36
NB_________1.49
SB_________1.53
CPU VTT____1.41

Bios
Vcore_______1.45
1.2v HT_____1.35
NB_________1.45
SB_________auto
CPU VTT____1.40

At full load the highest Iv seen is 43c, thats in XP and in the bios,, Iv gotten it up to 3.6, but had to raise all the voltages up,, and I pussed out lol.. whats the limit on my voltages, or how high can I take them safely?


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joematrix*


Ok, I'm pretty set on the XtremeTurbines now, but the question is: Blue or Black?


If your case is black, go with the black one. I am not fond of the blue version. If your case is white or silver, go with the silver version.

Picture of the black version of the Streamliner, which is 140mm vs. 120mm for the XtremeTurbine and runs slower than the XtremeTurbine (scroll down to post 35):
http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...e-armor-4.html

SVC has a good picture of the XtremeTurbine in action (http://www.svc.com/xtrturbine-blk.html). The shiny blades make it look really cool when the fan is turned all the way up, and they are very quiet when undervolted. Please note that the hub hemisphere thingy is removable.

AeroCool is a _very_ underrated company!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


I looked at those as well but considering my coolermaster stacker 830 has no window (there is mesh but the fans block the internal view) I stayed with the silverstone for my cpu and the quieter coolermasters for my case.

You should really check a fan that has 89 CFM for its dba level. If its too loud and you have 3 or 4 of them, it may end up being unbearably loud. Its one thing to have a cpu fan on a controller that you can dial up for high overclocks and benches, its another thing entirely to have a bunch of fans running all the time sounding like a jet engine.


My Armor has mesh in the front, and I am using a fan behind it. Unless your mesh is really fine it will still look very nice because the shiny blades not only look cool when blurred (see links & photos above). Plus, it puts on a light show in the room because the light reflects off the blades. It also shines the inside of your case because of the reflectiveness if you use the fan as an exhaust or in some other configuration where the reflected LED will shine into the case, though this will apply less to you than to me since I have a window on my side panel.

As far as the decibel level goes, AeroCool is very conservative with their estimates; another reason why they are underrated! With 3 of those XtremeTurbines at full blast the Silverstone FM121 that I use still easily wins in the noise category. If the XtremeTurbines are 33dBA, then the FM121 is more like 40dBA (vs. the 35dBA Silverstone lists).


----------



## joematrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stargate125645*


If your case is black, go with the black one. I am not fond of the blue version. If your case is white or silver, go with the silver version.

Picture of the black version of the Streamliner, which is 140mm vs. 120mm for the XtremeTurbine and runs slower than the XtremeTurbine (scroll down to post 35):
http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...e-armor-4.html

SVC has a good picture of the XtremeTurbine in action (http://www.svc.com/xtrturbine-blk.html). The shiny blades make it look really cool when the fan is turned all the way up, and they are very quiet when undervolted. Please note that the hub hemisphere thingy is removable.

AeroCool is a _very_ underrated company!

My Armor has mesh in the front, and I am using a fan behind it. Unless your mesh is really fine it will still look very nice because the shiny blades not only look cool when blurred (see links & photos above). Plus, it puts on a light show in the room because the light reflects off the blades. It also shines the inside of your case because of the reflectiveness if you use the fan as an exhaust or in some other configuration where the reflected LED will shine into the case, though this will apply less to you than to me since I have a window on my side panel.

As far as the decibel level goes, AeroCool is very conservative with their estimates; another reason why they are underrated! With 3 of those XtremeTurbines at full blast the Silverstone FM121 that I use still easily wins in the noise category. If the XtremeTurbines are 33dBA, then the FM121 is more like 40dBA (vs. the 35dBA Silverstone lists).



Heh, I ordered 3 of the black ones. I have the thermaltake armor with the 250mm fan in the side panel, but it also has a window too. I will be putting 2 of the fans in the front on my iCages, and the third will be used as an exhaust fan. I think they should work out nicely.

Btw, I got my swiftech mc21's today, but realized that I only needed 1 set since I still have stock SB cooling. I got the 1 set installed like Robilar recommended, but am not going to mess with any further overclocking for a while since it is quite warm in my room. Coretemp reported temps of 78c while running Orthos small FFTs test. A little warm, but with the new fans that should help quite a bit.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SavageFuDD* 
Hello all new to this a little.. Are my voltages ok? and what can I do to hit 3.6 or higher without blowing my rig up? lol

Everest
Vcore______1.41
1.2v HT____1.36
NB_________1.49
SB_________1.53
CPU VTT____1.41

Bios
Vcore_______1.45
1.2v HT_____1.35
NB_________1.45
SB_________auto
CPU VTT____1.40

At full load the highest Iv seen is 43c, thats in XP and in the bios,, Iv gotten it up to 3.6, but had to raise all the voltages up,, and I pussed out lol.. whats the limit on my voltages, or how high can I take them safely?


When you say full load, is that orthos running or just apps because there will be a difference.

43C is low, don't worry until you hit the high 50s. up cpu vtt to 1.55 (max). You may need to up vcore slightly more as well.

With the E6750, leave the multi at 8x, and try running at 400 (which will give you 3.6). After that raise it in small increments.


----------



## SavageFuDD

Thats with Orthos running, But its still only at 85% or so, Orthos dosn't run it at a full 100%,, But TAT do's,, and I can't get it running with this board.. But anyway.....
Sweet!! will do.. Thanks

And I wanted to show off my puter,, and see what you all think

http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic1.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic2.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic3.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic4.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic5.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic6.JPG


----------



## CpLRusty

OK tonight I tried adjusting settings to make 3.6 GHz. I changed voltages to what [email protected] recommended except for Vcore. He recommended 1.45 I figured I'd be hardheaded and try 1.40 since I'm on air cooling with an Antec 900 and Arctic Freezer 7 Pro.

Booted fine, ran orthos small FFTs for 53 minutes and then the screen froze. Had to cycle the power rocker on the PSU to reboot. While running the temps were good. Max core temp was either 43 or 58 depending on what Tjunction you believe E6850 to have. Note in the screenie I have +15c offset in my Speedfan coretemps - every other application agrees they were really 43c.

What typically causes screen freeze during orthos runs - is that a memory issue ? I was running memory auto->sync to get 800 MHz and have 2.2 vdimm set per Crucial recommendation for these non-Tracer Ballistix.

I'd be interested in any comments or thoughts. I put a Notepad in the screenie with the voltage settings and readback in BIOS.


----------



## alexisd

My settings for 3.7 stable.
Vcore=1.456
1.2ht=1.35
nb=1.55
sb=1.60
cpuvtt=1.55
Memory unlinked=900,timmings 4 4 4 10 2T and 2.15 volts,my memory don't like 1t.


----------



## CpLRusty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
My settings for 3.7 stable.
Vcore=1.456
1.2ht=1.35
nb=1.55
sb=1.60
cpuvtt=1.55
Memory unlinked=900,timmings 4 4 4 10 2T and 2.15 volts,my memory don't like 1t.

Thanks... I note you have a little more NB and SB set that I did, but a little less 1.2 HT, and some more Vcore, plus I have a little more Vdimm set.

Any ideas about why the screen might just be outright freezing up like that ? I mean up to 53 minutes I felt like I had a good OC with good temps and then FREEZE.









As a point of reference I was able to run 9 hours orthos small FFTs at 3.465 GHz using Vcore=1.33750, Vdimm=2.02, 1.2VHT=1.30, NB=1.30, SB=1.50, and VTT=1.55.

Thanks!


----------



## joematrix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CpLRusty* 

As a point of reference I was able to run 9 hours orthos small FFTs at 3.465 GHz using Vcore=1.33750, Vdimm=2.02, 1.2VHT=1.30, NB=1.30, SB=1.50, and VTT=1.55.

Thanks!

I don't have an e6850, but 1.30v for NB seems very low. Try upping that to 1.4v and see what happens.


----------



## CpLRusty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *joematrix* 
I don't have an e6850, but 1.30v for NB seems very low. Try upping that to 1.4v and see what happens.

Thanks for the thought Joe. That 1.3 vNB was at a 3.465G OC and as I said it was orthos stable for 9 hours.

I've now upped my OC to 3.6 GHz and upped vNB as well to 1.45 as was shown in the attached screenie to my post.


----------



## CpLRusty

Good news I think !

After I posted last night I figured to try lowering Vdimm just a little bit. My reasoning is that since I'm not driving one of the performance modes of the memory, I didn't need 2.2 vdimm. Plus I've read some posts here and at xtremesystems.org forums indicating some folks have better stability with lower vdimm.

So I made the ONE change to lower vDimm from 2.2 to 2.0 and I was stable in orthos small FFTs for over 7 hours - it's still running as I type this. This is with RAM at 800 MHz via Auto, Sync in BIOS.

Max temp I saw was 60c in the cores using Speedfan 4.32 with a +15 offset. This occurred periodically over the night, but the nominal temp seems to be 56-58c.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CpLRusty*


Good news I think !

After I posted last night I figured to try lowering Vdimm just a little bit. My reasoning is that since I'm not driving one of the performance modes of the memory, I didn't need 2.2 vdimm. Plus I've read some posts here and at xtremesystems.org forums indicating some folks have better stability with lower vdimm.

So I made the ONE change to lower vDimm from 2.2 to 2.0 and I was stable in orthos small FFTs for over 7 hours - it's still running as I type this. This is with RAM at 800 MHz via Auto, Sync in BIOS.

Max temp I saw was 60c in the cores using Speedfan 4.32 with a +15 offset. This occurred periodically over the night, but the nominal temp seems to be 56-58c.


Good,now jump to the next step.this chip can run stable @ differents OC.Try my settings and report back.
Those settings are for 3.7 stable.


----------



## DonNiger

Hi
I am looking for a new board (my P5N-E have burn out).

Could anyone tell me shortly, how good/bad that mobo accepts voltages for CPU as 1.6 and up? is there a big Vdroop. And what about 1T timings for mem (last mb did only up to 840 Mhz). Is it very selective about the ram? Normaly, how high the FSb goes?
Anyhing else I should take under consideration exepts cooling - I'll have it changed anyway.


----------



## alexisd

1.6 volt's for cpu







,if you have phase or a cascade no problem.But 24/[email protected] volt's no a good idea.


----------



## DonNiger

that mobo would be only for benching - not to run 24/7


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Revisiting case fans for a brief moment, has anyone come across any 120mm that are very low-profile (thin)?

When I installed my CM Aquagate, I had to take two fans out because of clearance issues with the radiator. I'm having problems finding dimensions of most fans online. If anyone has experience with thin ones, I'd love to hear about it.

Cheers,

d


----------



## Treatment X

you can do 1.6v 24/7 with water cooling and your ambient is relatively cold... although I wouldn't advise it... but it's possible. I see people do it all the time. This board has a relatively bearable vdroop, if ur on dual-core.


----------



## SavageFuDD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
When you say full load, is that orthos running or just apps because there will be a difference.

43C is low, don't worry until you hit the high 50s. up cpu vtt to 1.55 (max). You may need to up vcore slightly more as well.

With the E6750, leave the multi at 8x, and try running at 400 (which will give you 3.6). After that raise it in small increments.

OK I Im running 3.6, orthos stable for 8hours and 12 minuts..

I raised the cpu vtt to 1.5 and the vcore to 1.45 all other settings are the same. So far so good,, Thanks man! 48c avg, at full load running orthos jumped to 51 for a sec or to.

And its 450 x 8 is 3.6, 400x 8 is 3.2

http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic1.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic2.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic3.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic4.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic5.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic6.JPG


----------



## HoT

treatment x . with Q6600 G0 it's possible go under the 365 fsb on p5n32-e sli ?


----------



## Treatment X

Yea, i think it's an accepted theory that GTL Ref Voltage has been pretty variable, pretty 0.3-0.5v, and that quad clocking has varied between 350-380FSB, I topped out at 375, but I run 24/7 at 363.5FSB.


----------



## Dirtysteel

First post here. I assume my system details will appear below. I am using a CM Stacker 830 and I have temperature problems. When I close the case the CPU temp rises 10+ Â°C, but the MB temp cools by 4-5Â°C. My CPU cooler is a Noctua with two fans in addition to the rear case fan for a total of 3 120mm Noctua fans speeding the airflow through the cooler out the back of the case.

Right now I have a stable system at 3.3GHz. RAM is at 1066/5-5-5-15-2T, CPU idles at 40Â°C, MB at 43Â°C. When I close the case CPU temp rise to 50Â°C and MB cools to about 38Â°C. I expect some differences, but the CPU heats up a lot. When I run Orthos now the CPU will max out around 70Â°C !! These numbers are read at room temperature ~25Â°C

I use ProbeII, CPU-Z, Core Temp and NVMonitor to read values. Seems NVMonitor only reports nominal voltages. Can I trust these apps? I am using all the latest drivers, nTune etc., but my BIOS is 1002.

Take a look at the images of my rig. Aren't my temperatures very high? I tried remounting the cooler, using arctic silver 5 paste thingy spreading even thin layer as I have done many times with excellent results. Screws are as tight as they can be.

Images:
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer...6_opencase.jpg
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer...ler_intake.jpg
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer_cpucooler_top.jpg
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer_cpucooler_top2.jpg
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer_front_open.jpg
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer_front_reverse.jpg


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirtysteel*


First post here. I assume my system details will appear below. I am using a CM Stacker 830 and I have temperature problems. When I close the case the CPU temp rises 10+ Â°C, but the MB temp cools by 4-5Â°C. My CPU cooler is a Noctua with two fans in addition to the rear case fan for a total of 3 120mm Noctua fans speeding the airflow through the cooler out the back of the case.

Right now I have a stable system at 3.3GHz. RAM is at 1066/5-5-5-15-2T, CPU idles at 40Â°C, MB at 43Â°C. When I close the case CPU temp rise to 50Â°C and MB cools to about 38Â°C. I expect some differences, but the CPU heats up a lot. When I run Orthos now the CPU will max out around 70Â°C !! These numbers are read at room temperature ~25Â°C

I use ProbeII, CPU-Z, Core Temp and NVMonitor to read values. Seems NVMonitor only reports nominal voltages. Can I trust these apps? I am using all the latest drivers, nTune etc., but my BIOS is 1002.

Take a look at the images of my rig. Aren't my temperatures very high? I tried remounting the cooler, using arctic silver 5 paste thingy spreading even thin layer as I have done many times with excellent results. Screws are as tight as they can be.

Images:
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer...6_opencase.jpg
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer...ler_intake.jpg
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer_cpucooler_top.jpg
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer_cpucooler_top2.jpg
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer_front_open.jpg
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer_front_reverse.jpg


From what I can see you have 1 120 in
you have 2 120s out, gtx out and psu out.
I would suggest that you're starving the system of air.


----------



## SavageFuDD

I would have your front case fan's blowing in, and have your 2 cpu fans blowing to the back, and your rear case fan blowing out,, Im not sure if thats how you have it set up or not,,

Also is your case vented? If your set up the way I described you shouldn't have a rise in your temp,, is there a fan at the top of your case? if so I would have ir blowing down into the case,

You could try tacking the 120 mm fan that is on he back of your cpu cooler between the cpu and rear case fan off, you may be getting a dead spot of air..

Or maybe your 2 fron fans are not pushing enough air into the case,, turn theme up if you can..
yea man thats wierd.


----------



## SavageFuDD

On a diffrent note,, 3.6 didn't hold...

anyone at 3.6 stable with the same set up as me or close? I may not be able to with this chip, or Im doing somthing wrong with the voltages.


----------



## Dirtysteel

The rear fan and cpu fans are blowing the right direction (backwards). I turned the top front fan so both front fans are now blowing air into the case. It was pulling air out through the 4 harddrives (they run quite warm), but the air is still much cooler than the CPU.

Still no changes in temperatures. Perhaps +/-2Â°C, but that is not significant enough, Could be variations in room temperature or other factors. I have tried turning off the top fan (it was pulling air out), but that had no effect either.

It seems to me that the problem must be the heat transfer from the cpu to the cooling tower ... that sucks. I have no skills nor equipment to tinker with cpu heatspreader and polishing the contact surfaces.


----------



## SavageFuDD

you could try anouther cpu cooler,, I know that would be a pain in the ass,, But the 3 top ones I know of are the Tunic Tower, Infiniy,, ant the Zalmen 9500,, and 9700. If you look at my set up, my temps are low 30's and mid 40's on load


----------



## Treatment X

Where are you USLatin. I just got my EVGA, i'll have pictures up later today. I lapped my g0, just for good measure.... and I'll have pictures of that... and my fingertips that I lapped along with it... hurts like a mofo!


----------



## mica3speedy

what is asus up to? They don't even list the 1203 bios, and the 1201 bios is listed as beta on their site. I thought the 1201 wasn't beta?


----------



## Dirtysteel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SavageFuDD* 
you could try anouther cpu cooler,, I know that would be a pain in the ass,, But the 3 top ones I know of are the Tunic Tower, Infiniy,, ant the Zalmen 9500,, and 9700. If you look at my set up, my temps are low 30's and mid 40's on load

It seems that the cooler remount has "settled" now. At 3.3GHz, my highest stable clock so far, the CPU idle temp is down to 44 in a closed case and warm room temperature, not much less than 30 degrees celsius. MB temp is up to 44 now, but I suppose that is no reason for concern.

I opened the doors to my apartment and ventilated thoroughly, reducing room temperature below 20, and I managed to get a stable 3.375 (Vcore 1.5v nominal) clock with temps around 55 at load with orthos. Any higher than that and orthos crashes the system after 5-20 mins. Seems I have a "wall" at 1500FSB. Perhaps it is time to upgrade my BIOS (from 1002).


----------



## madmax1436

dirty, try my settings for 1550 fsb, i have the zalman 9700 n temps reach bout 56c under load. vcore 1.525 
ht 1.2
nb 1.4
sb 1.5
cpuvtt 1.55
they might help i had orthos stable for 8hrs 22mins @ these settings


----------



## madmax1436

sorry vcore was 1.525


----------



## Treatment X

I lapped the SOB today. Then stuck it in the EVGA. Thought I'd share the pics. I'm not held back by the mobo anymore, but now i'm being held back by my memory! UGH!







But it's nice to not be held back like before... anyway, I'll have more pics in another thread. ... and the lapping helped in both mobos. Evened out the temps in every core, and lowered by 3-5C.


----------



## SavageFuDD

DirtySteel, Im glad its better than it was,, sweet!!

OK Im going to ask a dumb question? Remember Im still a noob.. what is lapping?


----------



## Treatment X

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SavageFuDD* 
DirtySteel, Im glad its better than it was,, sweet!!

OK Im going to ask a dumb question? Remember Im still a noob.. what is lapping?

I will probably be bashed by this, but I found this on ANOTHER forum.. had some nice forum member success stories.

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=515311

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=220200


----------



## Treatment X

USLAtin, I got that EVGA, it's smooth as butter. 3.6ghz at 1.5125v, without really trying.


----------



## mica3speedy

today it looks like asus put up the 1203 bios again as beta, the 1201 is also listed as beta. In their forums it looks like the 1203 has issues with some mice and keyboards being plugged in when booting. Is the 1201 bios safe?


----------



## Treatment X

I was on the 1203, it was working >> than 1201. I feel like if you don't have probs with 1203, don't worry about it.


----------



## mica3speedy

I'm still using the 1103 bios. It looks like the latest non beta bios. I noticed the 1201 zip files isn't labeled as beta like the 1203 zip file. I don't think I'll have an issue with the 1203 bios since I don't have the keyboard or mouse that are causing issues unless it's all usb devices that cause the issue with the 1203 bios.


----------



## madmax1436

should be ok, been using 1203 for a while n no probs with my usb keyboard n mouse


----------



## mica3speedy

sweet. I may just try out the 1203 and hope for the best. Do you think I'll be able to get better oc results with the new bios?


----------



## Treatment X

Yes, my Q6600 was walled at 350FSB with 1103 BIOS, then moved to 1203 the wall moved up to 375FSB.

Now I have no wall since I moved to the EVGA 680i SLI


----------



## SavageFuDD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


I will probably be bashed by this, but I found this on ANOTHER forum.. had some nice forum member success stories.

lapped my IHS on a Q6600 (pics and results) - Overclockers Forums

Lathing, Sanding, Smoothing...CPU - Overclockers Forums


Thank you vary much!!!,, Well Im trying that,, soon maybe next weekend after work!!!


----------



## Dirtysteel

@Treatment X & SavageFuDD

It is obvious that the warm air under my desk is a problem. I can always ventilate when benchmarking, but for a stable running system I am stuck with a Vcore of 1.5v which push the CPU temps in the high 60s and FSB1500 is unstable at that voltage anyway. I tried the VTT 1.55v setting but that caused my system to crash consistently at any clock. THe article mentioned earlier stated that it had to be individually tailored so I might have to experiment a bit. The highest setting certainly did not help me in any way.

Thank you for the link with the Lapping technique. It could improve the heat exchange some. It seems a bit risky though. I may have to forward my plans to learn water cooling. In any case I am not going any further until I can afford to scrap my E6600 and get a Qxxxx to replace it. I need this PC up and running, it is my gamer and my multimedia center









Oops long post, oh well. Thanks to all who contributed, and especially the original poster. I have learned a lot, even if I only read about 20% of the thread


----------



## Treatment X

Glad those links helped.

May I suggest that everyone who's on this forum NOT be intimidated by watercooling. IF you're proactive enough to come on here and look for answers, have built your own system, you can watercool. I was a bit intimidated myself, I even had a spill once... but following precautions and directions, nothing ever broke/fried etc.

I am watercooling, and now that I have, I can't ever go back. There are times where I'm just 3C above ambient at idle. There's just no competition in terms of price-performance. Ultra Extremes' are running up $75 already. A weak watercooling system can be had at $150 (though I recommend at least $250), and watercooled systems can be extended to your gpu (which I also did)...

It isn't that hard, and there are already good guides, but forums like this and other forums have members that are always helpful and constructive.

My final conclusion with my lapping : 3C reduced at idle, 5C reduced at load (on average across 4 cores), the delta between the 4 cores are within 1C now. Best $10 I've spent.


----------



## Anubis_offline

Hello guys,

Little update, I just hit 389fsb result:

3.5Ghz

mem 4-4-4-6 T1
settings:

Vcore: 1.55v

HT: 1.4V

Mem : 2.250V

Nb: 1.5v'

USlatin NB 1.55V

I think is too much, you can boil a egg on top of the spirit even now it's hot!

SB: 1.5V

VTT: 1.55

Realy don't get it, for long time E6600 won't pass 378 even with the new bios 1203 
and 100.000 different volts and mem settings.
Am I going mad ore is mine P5N32 possessed?
Little help with lapping, fine sandpaper grain P600, P700, P800 and put tight on a glass sheet and go with care&#8230;.?
Thx for the help


----------



## USlatin

Anubis.... yea I am a bit worried about 1.55V on the NB but I've heard nothing from anyone here other than you... thanks for giving me ur opinion... I'd love to know if 1.55V is way too much for others too..

X, cool... good for you enjoy


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dirtysteel* 
First post here. I assume my system details will appear below. I am using a CM Stacker 830 and I have temperature problems. When I close the case the CPU temp rises 10+ Â°C, but the MB temp cools by 4-5Â°C. My CPU cooler is a Noctua with two fans in addition to the rear case fan for a total of 3 120mm Noctua fans speeding the airflow through the cooler out the back of the case.

Right now I have a stable system at 3.3GHz. RAM is at 1066/5-5-5-15-2T, CPU idles at 40Â°C, MB at 43Â°C. When I close the case CPU temp rise to 50Â°C and MB cools to about 38Â°C. I expect some differences, but the CPU heats up a lot. When I run Orthos now the CPU will max out around 70Â°C !! These numbers are read at room temperature ~25Â°C

I use ProbeII, CPU-Z, Core Temp and NVMonitor to read values. Seems NVMonitor only reports nominal voltages. Can I trust these apps? I am using all the latest drivers, nTune etc., but my BIOS is 1002.

Take a look at the images of my rig. Aren't my temperatures very high? I tried remounting the cooler, using arctic silver 5 paste thingy spreading even thin layer as I have done many times with excellent results. Screws are as tight as they can be.

Images:
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer...6_opencase.jpg
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer...ler_intake.jpg
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer_cpucooler_top.jpg
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer_cpucooler_top2.jpg
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer_front_open.jpg
http://www.tdz.no/pc/gamerpics/gamer_front_reverse.jpg

just one thing I noticed:
the intakes are not the best I've seen... if you can I'd cut some of the metal out of the HDD case to let those fans work... those little holes are restricting the airflow waaaaay too much I bet...

Hey LitlRatt, you are running 3.375GHz on your Q6600 GO, did you stabilize that? What NB voltage did you use?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Heads-up! New Nvidia betas are out:
BETA Drivers

Cheers,

d


----------



## jessipps

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Heads-up! New Nvidia betas are out:
BETA Drivers

Cheers,

d


Improved compatibility for Bioshock


----------



## USlatin

Bioshock? Biaowha? Biowho? heheh.. what is that?
Anyone try them out?


----------



## SavageFuDD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Treatment X* 
Glad those links helped.

May I suggest that everyone who's on this forum NOT be intimidated by watercooling. IF you're proactive enough to come on here and look for answers, have built your own system, you can watercool. I was a bit intimidated myself, I even had a spill once... but following precautions and directions, nothing ever broke/fried etc.

I am watercooling, and now that I have, I can't ever go back. There are times where I'm just 3C above ambient at idle. There's just no competition in terms of price-performance. Ultra Extremes' are running up $75 already. A weak watercooling system can be had at $150 (though I recommend at least $250), and watercooled systems can be extended to your gpu (which I also did)...

It isn't that hard, and there are already good guides, but forums like this and other forums have members that are always helpful and constructive.

My final conclusion with my lapping : 3C reduced at idle, 5C reduced at load (on average across 4 cores), the delta between the 4 cores are within 1C now. Best $10 I've spent.


Thas not bad,, But as much as I upgrade,, not sure if I want to go that rout yet,, Butt I have thought about it..


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Anubis.... yea I am a bit worried about 1.55V on the NB but I've heard nothing from anyone here other than you... thanks for giving me ur opinion... I'd love to know if 1.55V is way too much for others too..

X, cool... good for you enjoy


With the spirit II no problem @ 1.55.


----------



## USlatin

ok alex... I should b ok... 
what's the max on air?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
just one thing I noticed:
the intakes are not the best I've seen... if you can I'd cut some of the metal out of the HDD case to let those fans work... those little holes are restricting the airflow waaaaay too much I bet...

Hey LitlRatt, you are running 3.375GHz on your Q6600 GO, did you stabilize that? What NB voltage did you use?

10h 28m primequad stable
1.46 actual on nb


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
ok alex... I should b ok...
what's the max on air?

What's the max on air what?The max volt's for the NB?I even use 1.65/lol.For some testing and really high OC with my 6850.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
What's the max on air what?The max volt's for the NB?I even use 1.65/lol.For some testing and really high OC with my 6850.

ouch... I remember trying 1.65 once to see if a wall I was facing would budge but I was freaking out hehehe... so what's the highest for real use?


----------



## alexisd

I have mine set @ 1.45 for a stable 3.8 OC daily use.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
I have mine set @ 1.45 for a stable 3.8 OC daily use.

yea... that's what I had mine at with the E6300... but now I need 1.50 for 3.26 or 1.55 for 3.3


----------



## mba2dna

Just got 2 G0 for my 2 680i rig. Both Q6600 and E6850 could run 3.6G at 1.4V (after Vdroop) in the Inno3D board (same as EVGA). E6850 can reach 4G at 1.61V. Finally, the E6850 has installed at the P5N32-E SLI. Same no post problem happened to me (as usual) no matter unplug ac, clear cmos..., this time solved by putting the VID at the mid PCI-e 8x. After it posted, changed to PCI-e 16x. The Asus can't OC any Hz due to hidden problem at the Asus board but 3G is more than enough for my girlfriend.

Another exercise is to install raid 0 with 4 raptors. Seems that I hit the 680i raid0 problem as described in Tom's HW review. Throughput stuck at 110-120 no matter I run them at XP or Vista 64. X38 is my hope...

http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/03/...tor/page4.html


----------



## Labombadog

I have a Asus P5N32 E sli *plus*. Can I still use this thread to help me OC my pc (in sig below)?


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Labombadog*


I have a Asus P5N32 E sli *plus*. Can I still use this thread to help me OC my pc (in sig below)?


Yes. Even though it uses a different chipset, and doesn't overclock quite as high, the same principles still apply.


----------



## Robilar

The bios is functionally the same as well so all of the settings I listed will work. (do not try swapping bios though as the sb is a different controller on each board)


----------



## cognoscenti

Well 3 x P5N32-E Sli boards I have bought in 10 days now....lol
One lasted two weeks then started doing random reboots
One I bought on friday and blew on the weekend.
Bought another one today for delivery tomorrow.

Last one lasted two days before it gave me the no video signal issue.
Everytime it starts after running 470+ FSB.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
Well 3 x P5N32-E Sli boards I have bought in 10 days now....lol
One lasted two weeks then started doing random reboots
One I bought on friday and blew on the weekend.
Bought another one today for delivery tomorrow.

Last one lasted two days before it gave me the no video signal issue.
Everytime it starts after running 470+ FSB.

The ONLY way you're going to own me in Crysis is through a monetary exchange


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Labombadog*


I have a Asus P5N32 E sli *plus*. Can I still use this thread to help me OC my pc (in sig below)?


I just build a rigg for friend with the plus version.
Will give you some oc setting as start guide.
Do not know how an E6600 will do on this board, the setting below are with an E6750. 
I hope it will helps you

P5N32-E-sli plus, bios 0803
FSB: 1556
Cpu 1.4125V
Mem 2.250V
Nb 1.300V
Sb 1.500V
Vtt 1.55v
3.5Ghz 
mem at 4-4-4-5, Cpu temp full load 52c


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


The ONLY way you're going to own me in Crysis is through a monetary exchange










HAHAHAHAAHAHAH


----------



## joematrix

Well, I am going to go pick up my 3 AeroCool XtremeTurbine fans tonight and get them installed, and I'll report and temp differences.

I'm also thinking about a new CPU cooler and was thinking the Thermalright Ultima-90 would be a great choice. I'll post a link to a good review of it. Any thoughts?

http://www.anandtech.com/casecooling...oc.aspx?i=3068


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
Well 3 x P5N32-E Sli boards I have bought in 10 days now....lol
One lasted two weeks then started doing random reboots
One I bought on friday and blew on the weekend.
Bought another one today for delivery tomorrow.

Last one lasted two days before it gave me the no video signal issue.
Everytime it starts after running 470+ FSB.


well that sucks. I've built have a dozen systems with the board to date but only two of them are running high FSB (over 450). Don't you have an unlocked QX processor (or you did)? If so low FSB high multi puts less stress on the northbridge (which is likely what you have cooked...repeatedly).


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cognoscenti* 
Well 3 x P5N32-E Sli boards I have bought in 10 days now....lol

I've only just picked up some RAM sinks for the mosfets that were cooled by my stock NorthBridge cooler and I've been at 1600FSB pretty much 24/7. Either you've had some really bad luck with faulty batches of the board, or you've been rapeing the FSB.


----------



## USlatin

I got the 3M tape!!! FREE!!!
I highly recommend asking for samples!

Three different rolls, big rolls, and they only vary in thickness... they are quite sticky! I am sure they will help ensure the mosfets stay in place... kinda lazy about pulling the board again though ... ughhh... I might just wait till I install the Silencer 750W that's been looking at me for days now... but I am waiting to be done with this project before I do that... and I have to get tools to cut holes int he case to route the cables behind the MoBo's case's panel... which makes me wonder if I'll ever have this set up before I switch MoBos...


----------



## matthewrsx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anubis_offline*


I just build a rigg for friend with the plus version.
Will give you some oc setting as start guide.
Do not know how an E6600 will do on this board, the setting below are with an E6750. 
I hope it will helps you

P5N32-E-sli plus, bios 0803
FSB: 1556
Cpu 1.4125V
Mem 2.250V
Nb 1.300V
Sb 1.500V
Vtt 1.55v
3.5Ghz 
mem at 4-4-4-5, Cpu temp full load 52c


I'm on the Plus with an E6600. I'm running the CPU at just under 3.1 GHz at essentially stock voltage settings. I bumped the CPU to 1.36 (two ticks up from stock as I recall), and the NB one tick up from stock (can't remember the exact setting).

I've got a pretty good air cooled setup...with ambient at 24C, idle temps are 29-30C, and 51C under Orthos. Solid as a rock...maybe one hangup every week or two.

I'm sure I haven't pushed the board/cpu combo to the limit; you could probably get to 3.2 or 3.3 without too much difficulty.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I got the 3M tape!!! FREE!!!
I highly recommend asking for samples!

Three different rolls, big rolls, and they only vary in thickness... they are quite sticky! I am sure they will help ensure the mosfets stay in place... kinda lazy about pulling the board again though ... ughhh... I might just wait till I install the Silencer 750W that's been looking at me for days now... but I am waiting to be done with this project before I do that... and I have to get tools to cut holes int he case to route the cables behind the MoBo's case's panel... which makes me wonder if I'll ever have this set up before I switch MoBos...










Told you the 3M stuff was the best


----------



## Robilar

BTW, the 1203 beta bios has been pulled from the Asus site and the FTP site. I have read that there are issues with Razor USB keyboards and mice not working with it. 1201 is perfectly stable and I recommend staying with that until a better one is released.


----------



## USlatin

Well that blows cause I have been having a twitchy mouse problem which is very subtly and it comes and goes... Logitech G7

However this 1203 seems to be the best for OC'ing Q6600's... I don't think this might be a serious problem for me and I really don't have the time to OC and prove stability on a different BIOS right now.... not for a week or two... ughhhh...


----------



## Treatment X

3.55ghz proven stable, now moving on up with the EVGA 680i! Switch people switch!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


3.55ghz proven stable, now moving on up with the EVGA 680i! Switch people switch!


For a .2 or .3 increase?
If I was in the market for a new one, maybe.
But switch, I think not.


----------



## USlatin

he should be able to hit 3.8 if all goes well...


----------



## cognoscenti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


I've only just picked up some RAM sinks for the mosfets that were cooled by my stock NorthBridge cooler and I've been at 1600FSB pretty much 24/7. Either you've had some really bad luck with faulty batches of the board, or you've been rapeing the FSB.











Lol, well I run it up to 470FSB and leave it usually...until something happens.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


he should be able to hit 3.8 if all goes well...


Still, at this point in time, not worth it imho.
Wait on the release of the X38. Then it depends on availability of SLI.


----------



## USlatin

for fps probably not... anything less than 10fps is not a big enough difference to want to upgrade twice as opposed to waiting two/three months and jumping all the way to DDR3 X38 SLI... I might want to depending on work...


----------



## Treatment X

I could hit 3.9ghz and stable over 3 hours of prime (still running), but only at 1.59vcore. 3.55ghz I can do at 1.39vcore. So you pick your sweet spot along that curve. Lately I'm just benching w/ some friends, so I had that screen shot.

I heard x38 was wishy washy about SLI, and I LAST heard it wasn't going to support SLI. I've done alot of testing to know that 3.15ghz is the plateau where the 8800gtx will not give you any more return worth your overclocking so technically, anything over 3.15ghz isn't worth clocking if you're a gamer anyways (for the new generation of games, for old games like Doom3, it still makes a significant increase in fps). I think it's a given knowledge, but people still push their systems. And given the name of this forum, overclock.net, i think that's what it's all about.


----------



## erb

Anyone tried 2 kits of the RAM (8GB)?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820220227


----------



## USlatin

2GB sticks droool... no but think it is time to go with 2GB sticks allready? why not stick to 1GB of faster x 4


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hello. Does anyone know why ASUS took 1203 off their site? I'm still using it; should I not be?

Thanks!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


3.55ghz proven stable, now moving on up with the EVGA 680i! Switch people switch!


Hello. I was just comparing Orbs & noticed you're running one 8800GTX (correct?). I'm running one as well, but my video memory reports 512MB, whereas yours reports 1024! Obviously neither are right, but I was just curious if I am missing something...

Cheers,

d


----------



## cognoscenti

One thing I noticed when trying to finish off an already faulty board was how resilient these are.

I had it all plugged in and turned on (it was sitting on the carpet) then i dropped a few screws etc on the MB and pushed them around the board.
Occasionally it would trip the power off but I could just restart it again.
Even when putting them in the CPU socket etc ther was never any real sparks.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


One thing I noticed when trying to finish off an already faulty board was how resilient these are.

I had it all plugged in and turned on (it was sitting on the carpet) then i dropped a few screws etc on the MB and pushed them around the board.
Occasionally it would trip the power off but I could just restart it again.
Even when putting them in the CPU socket etc ther was never any real sparks.


are you trying to inflict physical damage to them? 
so no intention of RMA'ing them?


----------



## Treatment X

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Hello. I was just comparing Orbs & noticed you're running one 8800GTX (correct?). I'm running one as well, but my video memory reports 512MB, whereas yours reports 1024! Obviously neither are right, but I was just curious if I am missing something...

Cheers,

d


You know i never noticed it lol. I asked the same question in the 3dmarks forum at this link : http://futuremark.yougamers.com/foru...ad.php?t=24249

regarding about SLI vs single video card and how does one prove so. Apparently it's included in the 3dmark score report as Cooperative video cards : yes or no.

I'm under MeDavid16 on 3dmarks.com

Also, the reported ram (and clock speed/ram speed for video cards for that matter) are not only incorrect most of the time, but it differs if you're under XP or Vista. Although I'm dual booting, that score was under XP. Vista is IMHO will be the mainstay as an OS, even for gamers. After the initial install, the OS will be a little slow because it's ndexing/cataloging your files. Even AFTER that, it will learn how you use the computer and prefetch files, etc. So it actually takes a good while, about a month more or less, before it becomes smooth.

However when you run benchmarks, the system slows down because it prefetches unusual files and the way benchies clear their cache, it's cleared everytime and thus Vista has been known to slow benches down. Not only that, but due to the 3d graphical interface, the entire graphical sub-system is slowed down due to the extra process/taxing from Aero. This hit in two areas hurt the overall score, and can be as substantial as 10% (15000 score becoming 13500) but on the average of 5% (15000 to 14250) for most users, in 3dmark06, going from XP SP2 to Vista 32bit. If you're losing less than 5%, than you're better off and more optimized than the average user!

You'll notice a hit, but it's being worked on (last time I checked). Next Service Pack should address alot of the performance hit, in time for the winter season and the lineup of games!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


(SNIP!)
You'll notice a hit, but it's being worked on (last time I checked). Next Service Pack should address alot of the performance hit, in time for the winter season and the lineup of games!


Brilliant article about Vista scores. Thanks for that. I've never had XP on this system (all my licenses are for Home Edition, and I didn't want to insult my rig thusly), but I have long-known Vista to produce lower marks (a simple comparison of Orbs suggests I have the lowest score of similar systems, all of which are running XP). For me, the performance trade-off is worth-while because I like OS-tweaking, and immersion is the only way I'll learn.

I looked through that other thread, but I didn't see anything about misreported video memory; is that what you meant when you said you asked the same question there?

Cheers,

d


----------



## kanny

hmm does this board STILL have problems with the quads im thinking of selling it for a ip35 pro


----------



## Anubis_offline

Oke guys, Tuniq tower 120 ore the Thermalright Ultra-120 eXtreme.....?

Anubis needs some feedback pleas!


----------



## SavageFuDD

Zalman CNPS9700 NT.. Love it!! 30c 43c at full load, Take a look at my first link!! its a big boy!!


----------



## USlatin

I would probably go with the Thermalight but buy it lapped!

this place does it for you for $14 which is about $5 more than the sand paper and Gillette..

then make sure to get proper fan action going on and you are set.... not I don't think the pull push idea is bad but I think you can get most of the effect with a bit of tape







just tape the gaps on the top and bottom between the fan and HS, then you can go further and tape the sides of the HS.... just a thought.... otherwise the TT's design is better... but the Thermalight uses more pipes and that's a good thing.... oh! and it is much smaller which will allow you to reach in easy.... I hate the TT for that.... though the TT gives me amazing temps too... I hit 25C idle on one of my cores the other night with 73F ambient


----------



## Treatment X

I apologize for being a little cryptic. I thought you were asking if I attained my score with SLI, but claimed it to be single video card. lol.

I visit probably 8 different forums daily, I don't remember where I read it, but the compilation of forums I remember the mis-informed reading of 3dmarks is because of the way data is read off the graphical subsystem. I think a representative said it won't be patched, and they'll simply correct this in their upcoming 3dmark08, which would not only correct member count, but memory speed (including shader speed) and even an option to display temps (how will they do it and how feasible it is, I have my doubts, but time will tell).

Ultraextreme if you're picking between those two!

I had the Zalman 9700, it was good to me for a long long time. But then watercooling... can't go back to air anymore.

This board is still having problems with Quad clocking, I sold mines and went with EVGA 680i. I LOVE it. Can check it in my sig. 3.8ghz 24/7 stable, I clocked it last night at 3.9 for a bench.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Hello. Does anyone know why ASUS took 1203 off their site? I'm still using it; should I not be?

Thanks!

read my post #2592


----------



## alexisd

My Razor work fine,no problems with the 1203 bios for me.I been so lucky with this board.Why the people have so many problems with this board?


----------



## Treatment X

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


My Razor work fine,no problems with the 1203 bios for me.I been so lucky with this board.Why the people have so many problems with this board?


Because you're not using a quad-core. EVGA saved me! W00T W00T!


----------



## USlatin

I also am using 1203 without problems... of course the Q6600 is walled quite low at 375FSB and the RAM not being able to be clocked as high as I used to be able to with a Duo, but other than that known problem I am stable 12hs Prime with my rig as it shows on my sig


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


I apologize for being a little cryptic. I thought you were asking if I attained my score with SLI, but claimed it to be single video card. lol.


No worries! I was also wondering why you were telling my all that about SLI when we're both in single GPU config.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


(SNIP!)I think a representative said it won't be patched, and they'll simply correct this in their upcoming 3dmark08(SNIP!)


I just reinstalled Vista last night (I'm OCD about fresh dlls) & when I reinstalled 3dm06, I noticed something I hadn't before: in order for it to work in Vista, you have to install a DX9c modulator. Vista, as I'm sure you know, uses DX9ex for legacy cards. To me, this means that 3dm06 is an almost useless benchmark for Vista users. (However, for me, it is an important measure of stability: I was unable to run it before I installed aftermarket NB/SB cooling; thanks to Robilar: already added LOTS of karma).

Cheers,

d


----------



## mba2dna

Treatment X,

Reading your rig and know that you have 2 raid setup at 680i. Are you using onboard raid? And any performance hit for 3 x raptors? My rig have a flat line at 110-120Mbps for 4 x raptors, which is equal to 2 x raptors and is below my expectation.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hey, everyone.

I found a place that explains why Robilar is correct in suggesting that we run our RAM at 800, 1T. It also goes into why DDR3 isn't going to offer a significant performance bump.

The link is HERE, kudos goes to sickfreak in the NVIDIA forums for the find.

**EDIT: On the way are these:
Thermalright HR-03 Plus
Enzotech (Low Profile) One Piece Forged Copper Northbridge heatsink (for SB, so HR-03 can fit)
Zalman 9700 (the aquagate is just not performing)

Cheers,

d


----------



## demck85

The 1205 BIOS is now available off the FTP site. Haven't tried it yet.


----------



## pgwalker73

I have this mobo with a q6700 watercooled with a Aquagate S1. I have managed to oc the fsb to 1200 for a 3ghz speed on the cpu. It stays under 55c running prime and seems stable. I did raise the VTT to 1.55 volts as this guide recommends, but have my vcore on auto as I am not sure what to set this at. Can anyone recommmend a vcore setting for 1280 fsb so I can hit 3.2ghz? Running it on auto (vcore), when I ran prime temps still looked pretty cool, but become unstable after less than a minute. I am assuming its a vcore issue. Any suggestions? The only other voltage I have set manually is my memory at its rated 1.9v. I have not tweaked the SB or NB voltages, just them mem and the vtt.

Because this is not the extreme the core multi is locked at 10 so I am forced to up the fsb.

Thanks!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pgwalker73* 
(SNIP!) Any suggestions? The only other voltage I have set manually is my memory at its rated 1.9v. I have not tweaked the SB or NB voltages, just them mem and the vtt. (SNIP!)

I take my vCore to 1.4125 for a 3.46 on the extreme. I haven't really tried for too much faster because I have an Aquagate too & get up to 60 degrees at load. Some of those people with insane liquid have taken much higher to blast through the 4GHz envelope, but with an Aquagate, you probably don't want to go too much over 1.4, I'm thinking.

Cheers,

d


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *demck85* 
The 1205 BIOS is now available off the FTP site. Haven't tried it yet.

Woahhh....









so anyone try it with Q6600? any higher FSBs?
does it say why it was released?
Where is that? link?


----------



## Robilar

1205 is the re-release of 1203 with the usb polling issue resolved. (thats what caused issues for some users with razor devices). otherwise, its functionally identical to 1203.


----------



## Kasaris

Hello everyone, I'm new here to overclock.net and I wanted to say hello and thanks to Robilar and everyone else that has contributed to this thread.

I'm currently running my E6600 at stock atm while I wait for my Spirit II NB/SB coolers to arrive tomorrow, (got my Swifttech MC21's today for the VRMs, boy are they smaller than they looked in all those picturers) but then I plan to start overclocking.

I read through a good portion of the thread once and have been trying to keep up, but its quite a large thread. I was thinking about shooting for around a 3-3.2GHz overclock and I had a few questions about the CPU VTT setting, a question about my temps, and one or two others.

Ok first question when you say to set the CPU VTT to 1.55, do you mean to adjust it so that the Hardware voltage monitor reads about 1.55 in bios or to just set it to 1.55 in the bios settings and not worry about what the hardware monitor reads it at?

And question #2

with the following settings @ 2.4GHz

Vcore 1.26 [1.25 under load](set at 1.2750 in bios)
CPU VTT 1.26 (auto)
NB 1.25 (auto)
SB 1.55 (auto)
HT 1.25 (Auto)
DIMM 2.03-2.05 (2.0 in bios)

and an ambient of room temp of 27c according to the thermometer reading in my digial clock. I am getting about 30c / 32c in core temp at idle and around 44c for both cores under full load in prime 95 v 25.3. My question is are my temps decent at those settings for a Zalman 9700 LED with AS5? Also with those temps at stock would you think I should lap the Zalman along with the CPU, or do you think its not needed unless I were to try for a higher OC?

I was also curious what voltage would you recomend I start at for the CPU / NB for a 3-3.2GHz overclock. I know 1.35 was mentioned initially in the guide for the CPU, but I was more curious as to a starting point for the NB voltage.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kasaris* 
Hello everyone, I'm new here to overclock.net and I wanted to say hello and thanks to Robilar and everyone else that has contributed to this thread.

I'm currently running my E6600 at stock atm while I wait for my Spirit II NB/SB coolers to arrive tomorrow, (got my Swifttech MC21's today for the VRMs, boy are they smaller than they looked in all those picturers) but then I plan to start overclocking.

I read through a good portion of the thread once and have been trying to keep up, but its quite a large thread. I was thinking about shooting for around a 3-3.2GHz overclock and I had a few questions about the CPU VTT setting, a question about my temps, and one or two others.

Ok first question when you say to set the *CPU VTT to 1.55*, do you mean to adjust it so that the Hardware voltage monitor reads about 1.55 in bios or to just set it to 1.55 in the bios settings and not worry about what the hardware monitor reads it at?

And question #2

with the following settings @ 2.4GHz

Vcore 1.26 [1.25 under load](set at 1.2750 in bios)
CPU VTT 1.26 (auto)
NB 1.25 (auto)
SB 1.55 (auto)
HT 1.25 (Auto)
DIMM 2.03-2.05 (2.0 in bios)

and an ambient of room temp of 27c according to the thermometer reading in my digial clock. I am getting about 30c / 32c in core temp at idle and around 44c for both cores under full load in prime 95 v 25.3. My question is are my temps decent at those settings for a Zalman 9700 LED with AS5? Also with those temps at stock would you think I should lap the Zalman along with the CPU, or do you think its not needed unless I were to try for a higher OC?

I was also curious what voltage would you recomend I start at for the CPU / NB for a 3-3.2GHz overclock. I know 1.35 was mentioned initially in the guide for the CPU, but I was more curious as to a starting point for the NB voltage.


set cpu vtt in the bios to 1.55 (the max) don't worry about what it reads as in windows and it has no effect on temps.

set your ram voltage manually (if you already haven't) before you begin overclocking. Most ddr2 ram needs 2.1V but check the maker site to confirm

your temps with a zalman 9700 are fine. The zalman has a good base finish and is usually fairly flat so don't bother with lapping. If you had a thermaltake big typhoon that would be another story...

NB voltage should start at 1.4 up to 1.45 but make sure you have your aftermarket cooling on the nb *before* you start cranking the volts. This board absolutely needs active nb cooling for any kind of long term stable overclocks.

regarding cpu voltage, 1.35 is a good starting point


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Am I the only Vista user in this forum? If not, NVIDIA have released their 15.08 chipset drivers today.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
1205 is the re-release of 1203 with the usb polling issue resolved. (thats what caused issues for some users with razor devices). otherwise, its functionally identical to 1203.

Thanks Rob, so I might just skip this one as I am quite stable other than this BSOD yesterday after running the puter non stop for over 24hs


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *demck85* 
The 1205 BIOS is now available off the FTP site. Haven't tried it yet.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Am I the only Vista user in this forum? If not, NVIDIA have released their 15.08 chipset drivers today.

thanks for the heads up. Rep +1


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Thanks Rob, so I might just skip this one as I am quite stable other than this BSOD yesterday after running the puter non stop for over 24hs

Considering there have now been several 12 series beta releases, I can assume that a non-beta release is due shortly (ok, I know a non-beta release is due shortly







)

As such we won't see any real improvements in quad overclocking.

With that said, considering I've also heard a rumour from my friend at Asus that the X38 boards will not do SLI (but will support multi-GPU, which is where i think the confusion came from), our board is still going to be the best for dual core chips and SLI for now.

I grabbed a new revision EVGA board and a Q6600 for a friend so I'm going to see what kind of numbers I can get. He wants vmods as well on it so I might be able to see some funky numbers.


----------



## demck85

i use vista and xp


----------



## Pyr0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
1205 is the re-release of 1203 with the usb polling issue resolved. (thats what caused issues for some users with razor devices). otherwise, its functionally identical to 1203.

the 1205 bios is an official release, but seems quite different to 1203 to me
i only tested it for about half an hour or so, but was unable to boot (quad) at just 1333 fsb, whereas 1203 seems fine


----------



## Video_Master

So has anyone on here done any testing and overclocking with this baord with a e6850 cpu? I have this board and the e6850 and I have 4 sticks of the OCZ Reaper PC2-8500 memory and I am looking to get the memory working at its' intended speed and once that is stable start overclocking the processor. I am not new to computers but it has been almost 7 years since I built a system and things have changed quite a bit since then.

Here are my system specs:

Vista Ultimate 64bit
ASUS P5N32-E SLI
Intel e6850
eVGA 8800 ULTRA
4 x 1GB OCZ Reaper PC2-8500
2 x Western Digital Raptor 73GB in a Raid 0
Antec Nine Hundred case

Thanks ahead of time


----------



## alexisd

The 6850 can boot in almost, any setting you go.Im waiting for my reapers @ the end of this week.Now try this.
1650x9
v core=1.4
1.2 htt=1.35
nb=1.55
sb=1.55
cpu vtt=1.55
Stable settings.
Edt.What cooler you are using?


----------



## Litlratt

The Reapers only require around 2.1 on this board rather than the rated 2.35.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
The Reapers only require around 2.1 on this board rather than the rated 2.35.

Thank's,Litlratt i have a new set comming friday.Even in high speeds,i know you play a lot with this stick's,what's the max you ever have them?And what volts?


----------



## Litlratt

1200 is the most. Still at 2.1.
Might have been able to go higher but never tried. They still have less latency and higher bandwidth at 960 @4 4 4 6 1t.


----------



## Video_Master

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
The 6850 can boot in almost, any setting you go.Im waiting for my reapers @ the end of this week.Now try this.
1650x9
v core=1.4
1.2 htt=1.35
nb=1.55
sb=1.55
cpu vtt=1.55
Stable settings.
Edt.What cooler you are using?

I just have stock coolers on everything right now.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
1200 is the most. Still at 2.1.
Might have been able to go higher but never tried. They still have less latency and higher bandwidth at 960 @4 4 4 6 1t.

Thank's,REP+ good help with the new reapers for me.My firestix don't like 1T.I can go pretty high with them but no 1t.Only with loose timmings and some 2.3 or 2.25.


----------



## Litlratt

Thx alex. Post your bandwidth after your tests. I'd be interested in hearing what you're able to get.
Around 8.6 here, I thought that they would do better than that, but I guess it doesn't matter as they're not creating a bottleneck.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Video_Master*


I just have stock coolers on everything right now.


For a good OC you need an aftermarket coolers.And with this board is good to go aftermarket NB and SB coolers too.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Thx alex. Post your bandwidth after your tests. I'd be interested in hearing what you're able to get. 
Around 8.6 here, I thought that they would do better than that, but I guess it doesn't matter as they're not creating a bottleneck.


8.6 is good,that's @ 1200?


----------



## Video_Master

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


For a good OC you need an aftermarket coolers.And with this board is good to go aftermarket NB and SB coolers too.


Any recomendations for the coolers to use? Also any recomendations on the CPU cooler or is the stock one that comes in the retail packaging good enough?

Thanks for all your help.


----------



## Litlratt

sry dp.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


For a good OC you need an aftermarket coolers.And with this board is good to go aftermarket NB and SB coolers too.

8.6 is good,that's @ 1200?


No. At 960, best benches were at slower speed, faster timings.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Video_Master* 
Any recomendations for the coolers to use? Also any recomendations on the CPU cooler or is the stock one that comes in the retail packaging good enough?

Thanks for all your help.

The one in the retail package is not that good.Most recommend this one=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835154001
And for the NB and SB this=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835116018
Im using this one=http://www.jab-tech.com/Jing-Ting-Fo...r-pr-3450.html


----------



## Video_Master

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
The one in the retail package is not that good.Most recommend this one=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835154001
And for the NB and SB this=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835116018
Im using this one=http://www.jab-tech.com/Jing-Ting-Fo...r-pr-3450.html


Those are sweet looking. Thanks for the info. Come next payday I will have to pick those up. I'm gonna hit that rep+ button for you.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Video_Master* 
Those are sweet looking. Thanks for the info. Come next payday I will have to pick those up. I'm gonna hit that rep+ button for you.

Thank's and welcome anytime.If you planning in a good OC.You better with some aftermarket cooling solution.For a monster OC go with water solution,phase or LN2 or DI.Is more cooling solution in the market to choose from,but those are some of the best around.And we use.Look in the first page of this nice guide for some,extra information.








You can try the settings that i post for you.But check your temps as long the goin to go up in a bit.Check in here great service and fast shipping too.Their prices sometimes are better.http://www.jab-tech.com/Intel-LGA-77...t-T-c-182.html


----------



## USlatin

hey Video Master, what r u editing on? do u?


----------



## Video_Master

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


hey Video Master, what r u editing on? do u?


What do you mean?


----------



## USlatin

well your name being video master I thought u might edit video... but I guess you meant for it to be "master of video cards" right?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pyr0* 
the 1205 bios is an official release, but seems quite different to 1203 to me
i only tested it for about half an hour or so, but was unable to boot (quad) at just 1333 fsb, whereas 1203 seems fine

Sorry to correct you but its still a beta only. Also, its functionally the same as 1203 except USB poll rate changes. You may have other issues.

P5N32-E SLI BIOS version 1205
1. Enhance overclocking capability
2. Enable support for ASUS SK-2690 keyboard
3. Enable support for Razer Copperhead USB Mouse
4. Added CPU UCode to support new processors
5. Enhance memory compatibility
6. Finetune Q'Fan operation algorithm

This is the same notes as the 1203 except for #3


----------



## Pyr0

ah ok sorry, my bad








i didn't notice the bold red "beta version" text hehehe

oh well, at least i'll look forward to an official one soon then, hopefully they'll have fixed the bugs in 1205


----------



## Video_Master

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
well your name being video master I thought u might edit video... but I guess you meant for it to be "master of video cards" right?

Nah, I have used this name since I was a kid and got my original NES. I always played video games and my dad called me a video game master cause I always beat the games quickly. I just shortened it up to video master and it has stuck ever since. I have used that name on BBS's back in the day also.


----------



## Video_Master

Has anyone used this CPU cooler?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835101007


----------



## Litlratt

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835109140
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/thifforinlga.html
Arguably, the best air coolers.


----------



## USlatin

Thermalright IFX-14 FTW!!! holy smokes!!!

drools...

add three 120mm to that and u r set ROFL!!!


----------



## Video_Master

This was the other one that I was looking at.

http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...tor_cpu_cooler


----------



## USlatin

skip those and go with the ones people suggest here... there are big differences and they are known by many so stay away from those and go with the ones LitlRatt recommended or a Tuniq Tower 120 or an Enzotech... those are all top dogs and will get you about 15C cooler than that thing


----------



## Video_Master

I am reading the story about the Thermalright IFX-14 on enthusiast right now and it looks pretty sweet.

Now are people using the HR-10 that hooks to the backside also or just skipping that part?


----------



## USlatin

when you buy it you get both pieces... so I would most definitely try to hook that suka up!!!! I was thinking about getting some air flow to the back of my MoBo but this is a better idea!

stick three silverstones on the big one and two 60mm on the other and you got OVERKILL CENTRAL going on

ROFL MAO

watch someone read this post and do it! and watch them run stock HS on the NB, lol...


----------



## Video_Master

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


when you buy it you get both pieces... so I would most definitely try to hook that suka up!!!! I was thinking about getting some air flow to the back of my MoBo but this is a better idea!

stick three silverstones on the big one and two 60mm on the other and you got OVERKILL CENTRAL going on

ROFL MAO

watch someone read this post and do it! and watch them run stock HS on the NB, lol...


See I was thinking 3 of the Antec 120mm Tri-Cool fans since that is what everything in my system is right now. Each one on high speed does about 79CFM so I figure even with 2 of them I am moving some good air. Now they are no where near silverstones though.


----------



## prosser13

I wouldn't bother with an IFX-14, supposedly the Ultra-120 is smaller and easier.


----------



## USlatin

If you can get better temps I'd say go for it but otherwise prosser you are right in that the Ultra-120 would give muuuuch easier access to mosfets and all else RAM NB.... I mean that thing must be gargantual if you put fans on the outside...

I wonder what kinds of numbers people r getting with it... is it even out yet?


----------



## rmanuelb

Hi.

I can not pass 1500 fsb ( x9 ) with my e6600 after flashing to the new 1205 bios.

Before ( 1103 bios ) I needed 1,6 volts vcore to boot and stable 1600 fsb ( x9 ) on XP...

All voltages are according to this guide .... do you think the new bios is controling vcore voltage and stoping boot if not enough for the fsb ???

Is this possible ?? Or it's just the new bios that s***s big time ( pardon the expression)

Regards.


----------



## alexisd

Some new numbers with my new reapers,pc8500,suggestions/lol.Working on it.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Some new numbers with my new reapers,pc8500,suggestions/lol.Working on it.


Timings? Speed?
Use Sandra for mem bandwidth test.


----------



## Video_Master

yes, please post what you have everything set to now that you have the reapers in the system. That means yours and mine are identical now.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I'm trying to install my Zalman 9700, but I'm not sure which direction the s-clip should go; does this board have a vertical or horizontal "retention guide"???

**EDIT: Bumped previous post; I'm a bloody idiot!


----------



## Bullitt4u

Hi Everyone, new to overclock.net and still learning.

I've been reading through this great guide and tips and for the life of me cannot get this thing to pass Orthos at 375X9. From what I have been reading (and maybe I missed something) the voltages that I have set seem high for what I am trying to do.

I have been able to run it at 350X9 at 1.41 vcore and most voltages in auto.

Ram is set per Crucial's suggestion.

I have everything disabled per guide and FSB is unlinked.

Please help, I think I am missing something

Thanks


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
Timings? Speed?
Use Sandra for mem bandwidth test.

I been working with this stick's for a while now.I think i need better settings for them.The benches look ok?I think that was @ 960 and 4 4 4 6 1T timmings.My firestix are good in high mhz.I need to know better this reapers pc 8500.I try unlinked,linked 1:1,1200,loose timmings,tight timmings and some others but no impress yet.


----------



## USlatin

hey Video, instead of the antecs get one Silverstone and jam it in the middle and it should still be more than a push-pull 79CMF


----------



## Straka

sorry if this has been asked before, but does this board support the Pentium D 805?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


I been working with this stick's for a while now.I think i need better settings for them.The benches look ok?I think that was @ 960 and 4 4 4 6 1T timmings.My firestix are good in high mhz.I need to know better this reapers pc 8500.I try unlinked,linked 1:1,1200,loose timmings,tight timmings and some others but no impress yet.


Bw is about right, latency seems high.
How are they doing in the Pi benches?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bullitt4u*


Hi Everyone, new to overclock.net and still learning.

I've been reading through this great guide and tips and for the life of me cannot get this thing to pass Orthos at 375X9. From what I have been reading (and maybe I missed something) the voltages that I have set seem high for what I am trying to do.

I have been able to run it at 350X9 at 1.41 vcore and most voltages in auto.

Ram is set per Crucial's suggestion.

I have everything disabled per guide and FSB is unlinked.

Please help, I think I am missing something

Thanks


Welcome.
Ram normally needs less than recommended on this board.
Take it out of the equation when establishing your cpu oc by doing small ffts in Orthos.


----------



## alexisd

Super pi no that good.


----------



## alexisd

Getting there.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
Getting there.

Looks better








Best I could do was 12.171. Was hoping to get into the 11s but put this quad in and now there's no chance in [email protected]#$.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

It's really fun to have this thread. The first computer I built was a 486/66. I didn't know what I was doing, and shorted out the building when I plugged in my PSU. For whatever reason, that same night, a family friend came over who happened to have a voltmeter & he helped me find what went where (before it was idiotproofed). I like to think of this forum as my random guy with a voltmeter.

Today, I added an HR-03 and swapped out my Aquagate with a Zalman 9700. I made the terrible mistake of buying a 92mm Tornado for the HR-03. This fan is about as loud as my six 80mm 89CFM fans together. I need to do something about it.

Here are some photos; the one of the stock 8800 HSF makes me sick to my stomach:





**EDIT: Notice how the Tt Spirit II no longer fits on the SB. In fact, I had anticipated this and bought a superior SB HS, but it didn't fit either (holes didn't match). In the end, I lapped the stock NB HS, cut the heatpipe and plonked it on the SB with some AS5. I think this will be adequate because I have a couple of case fans directly pointed in that area, and the SB wasn't getting as hot as NB was. Nevertheless, I am only conservatively overvolting the SB.

Sorry for the long post.

Cheers,

d


----------



## alexisd

That's a huge fan mate.Tight you'r rig to the bed or do something about it.JK.What's the temps in that card with that set up?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


That's a huge fan mate.Tight you'r rig to the bed or do something about it.JK.What's the temps in that card with that set up?


I think it's going to fly away. It sounds like a vacuum cleaner!

I'm around 26 ambient...
71 degrees stock HSF/stock fan
59 degrees stock HSF/100% fan
45 degrees HR-03 Plus/92mm Tornado

That's a 26 degree improvement on stock, and a 14 degree improvement on 100% fan. I am extremely pleased right now...

EDIT: ... even though the only reason I got the HR-03 Plus was to sate my OCD by replacing the repulsive stock HSF.

Cheers,

d


----------



## USlatin

hey Dosto, now time to get an X-Fi man!


----------



## HoT

USLatin . please tell me how many vNB vSB vHT u have to do more than 350FSB










thks anyway i put 1203 bios and go to 360FSB rock stable


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HoT*


please tell me how many vNB vSB vHT u have to do more than 350FSB


Personally I have mine set as follows;

NorthBridge 1.6v (1.55v real)
SouthBrdige 1.55v (1.53v real)
1.2HT - 1.35v (1.34v real)
VTT - 1.55v (1.6v real)

The readings in the brackets are from the built in voltage monitor in the BIOS itself. As an example, don't run your *real* NorthBrdige vCore any higher than 1.55v if you're useing good air cooling. Anything higher than 1.55v is going to need liquid cooling.


----------



## HoT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
Personally I have mine set as follows;

NorthBridge 1.6v (1.55v real)
SouthBrdige 1.55v (1.53v real)
1.2HT - 1.35v (1.34v real)
VTT - 1.55v (1.6v real)

The readings in the brackets are from the built in voltage monitor in the BIOS itself. As an example, don't run your *real* NorthBrdige vCore any higher than 1.55v if you're useing good air cooling. Anything higher than 1.55v is going to need liquid cooling.

how many FSB u have for use 1.6v in NB ?
with my E6400 3.2 i need only 1.45v to stable it(400FSB) and 1.4v to 360FSB in Q6600 to 3.250Ghz


----------



## CpLRusty

Progress at last !

3.724GHz with 1.425 vCore: overclock.net E6850 OC thread post


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HoT*


how many FSB u have for use 1.6v in NB ?
with my E6400 3.2 i need only 1.45v to stable it(400FSB) and 1.4v to 360FSB in Q6600 to 3.250Ghz











I'm currently running 400FSB but I have the multiplier of my E6600 set to its default x9 for 3.6Ghz. Bear in mind that I only have 1.6v set in the BIOS as the vDroop lowers it to 1.55v real voltage.


----------



## HoT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


I'm currently running 400FSB but I have the multiplier of my E6600 set to its default x9 for 3.6Ghz. Bear in mind that I only have 1.6v set in the BIOS as the vDroop lowers it to 1.55v real voltage.



try 1.45v on NB . to 400FSB is enough!
dont mater the multiplier u have


----------



## USlatin

Hey... I had to bump up from 1.5V to 1.55V to get to 367FSB... the chip wanted more juice too though at 1.4V which seems a bit high for a 3.303GHz... my RAM also needed to be set to 1000MHz down from 1100MHz and the volts up from 2.23V to 2.3V

quite stupid really... but i wanted 3.3 for some reason... I should back down to 3.26 which ran with 1.38Vcore 1.5NB volts and the RAM might have ran raster too...

Hey LitlRatt is running higher but I think he has his NB on water


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Hey... I had to bump up from 1.5V to 1.55V to get to 367FSB... the chip wanted more juice too though at 1.4V which seems a bit high for a 3.303GHz... my RAM also needed to be set to 1000MHz down from 1100MHz and the volts up from 2.23V to 2.3V

quite stupid really... but i wanted 3.3 for some reason... I should back down to 3.26 which ran with 1.38Vcore 1.5NB volts and the RAM might have ran raster too...

Hey LitlRatt is running higher but I think he has his NB on water

Yes, NB is on water but at 1.4.
And quit cappin' my r.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


And quit cappin' my r.


----------



## off chops

hey all. i just bought a p5n32-e sli and have a q6600 g0. on my commando i could reach 3.65ghz easy. with this board i cant even reach 3ghz. i have a feeling that it might be the bios. im using 1205. is there a better bios to be overclocking with. any help would be appreciated. not very happy with it atm. thanks.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

All: I recently added the CPU core temperature plugin to RivaTuner, but it's reporting my core temps idle at 45, 49, 52, 52. So, I kind of freaked out & downloaded something called CoreTemp 0.95 (beta), which also reported high - but different - values.

Now, when I'm in BIOS, the temperature reads 40 degrees but ASUS PC Probe says it's 31 degrees. Up until now, I've been trusting ASUS PC Probe, but is this wise? What's the best way to reliably check temperatures in Vista?

Cheers,

d

PS- No X-Fi for me. I still only have 2.1 speakers & right now, the only game I play is FS2k4 (although I have my eye on several that are coming out soon).


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:


Originally Posted by *off chops* 
hey all. i just bought a p5n32-e sli and have a q6600 g0. on my commando i could reach 3.65ghz easy. with this board i cant even reach 3ghz. i have a feeling that it might be the bios. im using 1205. is there a better bios to be overclocking with. any help would be appreciated. not very happy with it atm. thanks.

One great author wrote,

The Northbridge and Southbridge on the 680i boards get very very hot. The passive heatpipe cooling on the the motherboard is fine for stock settings and even mild overclocks. If you want anything resembling stability at high overclocks, you will need aftermarket cooling.
I have personally mounted a pair of Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II







coolers on my board with excellent results.


----------



## seanandnik

i have a e6850,p5n32-e sli mobo, 4 gb crucial tracer 1066 ram. i tried raising the multiplier up to 10 (up from 9x333.33), setting the mem voltage to 2.2, up from 1.85, the vtt to 1.55, the vcore to 1.40 up from 1.32, the fsb is running at 1333.33, i left nb and sb voltages on auto, i ordered 2 extreme spitrit II's and some heatsinks and wanted to get those before upping the nb&sb voltages. well after this my pc would not boot, it went to a black screen with a boot failure message, so i set everything back to auto, except the ram which i have running at 1066 unlinked, and wanted to ask what went wrong?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seanandnik*


i have a e6850,p5n32-e sli mobo, 4 gb crucial tracer 1066 ram. i tried raising the multiplier up to 10 (up from 9x333.33), setting the mem voltage to 2.2, up from 1.85, the vtt to 1.55, the vcore to 1.40 up from 1.32, the fsb is running at 1333.33, i left nb and sb voltages on auto, i ordered 2 extreme spitrit II's and some heatsinks and wanted to get those before upping the nb&sb voltages. well after this my pc would not boot, it went to a black screen with a boot failure message, so i set everything back to auto, except the ram which i have running at 1066 unlinked, and wanted to ask what went wrong?


The 6850 multy is x9 that's why no boot.
Edit=Welcome to the forum and in this guide too.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *off chops*


hey all. i just bought a p5n32-e sli and have a q6600 g0. on my commando i could reach 3.65ghz easy. with this board i cant even reach 3ghz. i have a feeling that it might be the bios. im using 1205. is there a better bios to be overclocking with. any help would be appreciated. not very happy with it atm. thanks.


The wall is at 3.375ghz with a locked multiplier quad.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


All: I recently added the CPU core temperature plugin to RivaTuner, but it's reporting my core temps idle at 45, 49, 52, 52. So, I kind of freaked out & downloaded something called CoreTemp 0.95 (beta), which also reported high - but different - values.

Now, when I'm in BIOS, the temperature reads 40 degrees but ASUS PC Probe says it's 31 degrees. Up until now, I've been trusting ASUS PC Probe, but is this wise? What's the best way to reliably check temperatures in Vista?

Cheers,

d

PS- No X-Fi for me. I still only have 2.1 speakers & right now, the only game I play is FS2k4 (although I have my eye on several that are coming out soon).


Latest version of Coretemp and/or Everest.


----------



## seanandnik

why cant i up my multiplier to 10 on an e6850? so i should keep it at 9 and up the fsb to 350-400? also what should i set the nb and sb voltage to after i install tt spirit II'S? and my vcore is at 1.33 and my mem is at 1.85, so give me some numbers here please, should i set the mem to linked or unlinked ? this is sooooo confusing. there are like a million differant options/combos. right now everything is set at auto and i flashed to bios 1205.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seanandnik*


why cant i up my multiplier to 10 on an e6850? so i should keep it at 9 and up the fsb to 350-400? also what should i set the nb and sb voltage to after i install tt spirit II'S? and my vcore is at 1.33 and my mem is at 1.85, so give me some numbers here please, should i set the mem to linked or unlinked ? this is sooooo confusing. there are like a million differant options/combos. right now everything is set at auto and i flashed to bios 1205.


Only x9 multy=sry.
Now some settings for you.
1650x9=3.712
vcore=1.46
1.2htt=1.35
nb=1.55
sb=1.55
cpu vtt=1.55
Memory unlinked @ 960,2.1 volt's,timmings 4 4 4 6 1T,i change the settings for the memory,to the ones i post and still stable.
Stable settings for you.


----------



## off chops

Litlratt said:


> The wall is at 3.375ghz with a locked multiplier quad.
> 
> Yeah but mines not even at that. ive used all the settings this thread said to use, but no go. where can i download the 1203 bios?. or if there is a better bios to get wich one is it.


----------



## Litlratt

off chops said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Litlratt*
> 
> 
> The wall is at 3.375ghz with a locked multiplier quad.
> 
> Yeah but mines not even at that. ive used all the settings this thread said to use, but no go. where can i download the 1203 bios?. or if there is a better bios to get wich one is it.
> 
> 
> ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...P5N32-E%20SLI/


----------



## off chops

Litlratt said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *off chops*
> 
> 
> ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...P5N32-E%20SLI/
> 
> 
> 1203 isnt there man. if not 1203 then wich bios is the best 4 overclockin the q6600.


----------



## Litlratt

off chops said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Litlratt*
> 
> 
> 1203 isnt there man. if not 1203 then wich bios is the best 4 overclockin the q6600.
> 
> 
> 1203 and 1205 should be the same regarding your concerns.


----------



## Pyr0

you can find 1203 here:
http://www.overclock247.com/pyr0/Asus%20P5N32-E%20SLi/


----------



## off chops

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pyr0*


you can find 1203 here:
http://www.overclock247.com/pyr0/Asus%20P5N32-E%20SLi/


cheers for that mate.


----------



## Litlratt

Litlratt said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *off chops*
> 
> 
> 1203 and 1205 should be the same regarding your concerns.
> 
> 
> Consider this an official retraction.
> Just tried the 1205 bios and could not get into Windows with previous settings.
> Reverted back to 1203 and booted just fine.


----------



## off chops

Litlratt said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Litlratt*
> 
> Consider this an official retraction.
> Just tried the 1205 bios and could not get into Windows with previous settings.
> Reverted back to 1203 and booted just fine.
> 
> hahaha yeah i know. i just flashed to 1203 and am now at 3.375 and 1000mhz mem. cheers 4 helpin out mate. im happy with that. it wont go anymore than 375fsb though. still happy now but.


----------



## Litlratt

off chops said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Litlratt*
> 
> hahaha yeah i know. i just flashed to 1203 and am now at 3.375 and 1000mhz mem. cheers 4 helpin out mate. im happy with that. it wont go anymore than 375fsb though. still happy now but.
> 
> I knew I read it somewhere.
> http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ml#post2660076
> Obviously, they changed something else


----------



## Litlratt

never mind


----------



## stargate125645

Anyone using the new Auzentech X-Fi on the P5N32-E SLI? It would be nice to know if it is short enough to avoid clearance issues with the southbridge like the XtremeGamer Fatal1ty has.


----------



## silentsun

Hey guys

not to hijack the thread but can you let me know what is the best RAM to use with the Asus P5N32-E board. I am running 2 Patriot Sticks of 2Gb Each (4gigs total) in Dual Channel DDR2 800Mhz. I have been reading threw the threads and you guys talk about OCZ Ram. I am asking because I would like to be able to Overclock my RAM but the sticks I have don't like to be pushed at all. So I was thinking about returning them. Also will there be more performance running a quad Channel set up? 4sticks at 1GB each?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *silentsun*


Hey guys

not to hijack the thread but can you let me know what is the best RAM to use with the Asus P5N32-E board. I am running 2 Patriot Sticks of 2Gb Each (4gigs total) in Dual Channel DDR2 800Mhz. I have been reading threw the threads and you guys talk about OCZ Ram. I am asking because I would like to be able to Overclock my RAM but the sticks I have don't like to be pushed at all. So I was thinking about returning them. Also will there be more performance running a quad Channel set up? 4sticks at 1GB each?


More sticks add latency and are harder to overclock. So performance actually decreases.
4Gb in a 32 bit OS is practically worthless.
Over 2 Gb in a 32 bit OS with a Creative card will possibly result in a loss of hardware acceleration for sound.


----------



## chityuulay

HI GUYS, this is my first post as well as first question. i am rookie to overclocking, and i have read most of them here.. i have Q6600 with asus p5n32-e sli, problem is i am using vista 64 bit. so most of the temp software doesn't work . secondly i could get up to 2.96 to my cpu and only 27c with air cooling not load when when load it only to 37c or so? according to asus probe.but the problem is everytime i reset my computer, i don't get video signal. so i have to trun off power supply and wait for couple second before i can reboot the computer. then it restore to default bio settling again. my mobo bio version is 1205 now. and before i was able to do setting from bio to overclock now i can only use asus booster to overclock. i can no longer use bio setting to overclock or it wont' send video signal and went in to defult bio. can anyone tell me what possibably wrong?


----------



## stargate125645

It sounds like your overclock is not stable, so perhaps you didn't up your core voltage enough. What is it at?

Anyone have plans to get the new Auzentech X-Fi soundcard?


----------



## chityuulay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stargate125645*


It sounds like your overclock is not stable, so perhaps you didn't up your core voltage enough. What is it at?


oh yea. since i can't change in bio setting , i use asus booster , i give cpu voltage to 1.300, and mem to 2.00 but if i change it in the windows and use for hourss without problem..but problem start when i restart the system . and by the way what program should i use for streess test and other test for 64 bit vista? -( Ntune don't work, so i can't figure out what temp exactly my system is.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chityuulay*


oh yea. since i can't change in bio setting , i use asus booster , i give cpu voltage to 1.300, and mem to 2.00 but if i change it in the windows and use for hourss without problem..but problem start when i restart the system . and by the way what program should i use for streess test and other test for 64 bit vista? -( Ntune don't work, so i can't figure out what temp exactly my system is.


Try 1203 BIOS.
Everest, CoreTemp and Speedfan/Tjunction fix will all work under Vista64.
Orthos and Primequad for stress testing, however there are others.


----------



## cognoscenti

my 4gb Ram only shows up as 3gb?

Is it going to use the 4gb or just 3gb?

I just paid another $260 for the extra 2gb so I want to be able to use it.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


my 4gb Ram only shows up as 3gb?

Is it going to use the 4gb or just 3gb?

I just paid another $260 for the extra 2gb so I want to be able to use it.


It should be there cog.
I can't remember an enable/disable in the BIOS for it.
It will adjust accordingly to 4Gb. I have a 1.4Gb footprint with 4Gb. I think around 800Mb with 2Gb.


----------



## cognoscenti

so in xp when you right click 'My Computer' and go 'Properties' does it say 4gb?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


so in xp when you right click 'My Computer' and go 'Properties' does it say 4gb?


I only use 2Gb in XP32 as my Creative card will lose acceleration if I enable more than 2Gb.
In Vista64 it shows all 4Gb.
I have XPPro on another rig with a P5WDH Deluxe with 4Gb and it shows in Windows but there is a setting in the BIOS to enable 4Gb support.


----------



## Litlratt

cog:
I forgot to ask if you had checked the QVL to ensure that the board supports up to 4Gb of your particular ram.
http://usa.asus.com/100/download/pro...59/1459_10.pdf
Never mind, It doesn't list PC2 8500.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Over 2 Gb in a 32 bit OS with a Creative card will possibly result in a loss of hardware acceleration for sound.


That's to do with bugs in Creative's drivers. Their software developement is the pits compared to many other companies, which is why I no longer recommend Creative audio cards.


----------



## chityuulay

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Try 1203 BIOS.
Everest, CoreTemp and Speedfan/Tjunction fix will all work under Vista64.
Orthos and Primequad for stress testing, however there are others.


oh yea, i forgot to mention i have tried 1203 first and that restart and overclock not save issues comes out that was the reason why i upgrade my bio to 1205 and samething. i think i have mess up my mobo. now evertime i trun on computer no video signal, i have to trun off powersupply and and trun on to reboot my computer.when i go in the bio setting. it has manual oc setting on, but never work anymore. anyone have any idea?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chityuulay*


oh yea, i forgot to mention i have tried 1203 first and that restart and overclock not save issues comes out that was the reason why i upgrade my bio to 1205 and samething. i think i have mess up my mobo. now evertime i trun on computer no video signal, i have to trun off powersupply and and trun on to reboot my computer.when i go in the bio setting. it has manual oc setting on, but never work anymore. anyone have any idea?


Have you tried clearing the cmos?
If so, I think my next move would be to contact Asus for possible RMA.


----------



## chityuulay

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
Have you tried clearing the cmos?
If so, I think my next move would be to contact Asus for possible RMA.

but without overclock setting , my mobo doesn't have any of those issue ^.^. like i tried go in bio and reset to the defult setting..and boot without a problem. but i want to make my cpu aleast 2.8 to 3.0. hehe am i too greedy?


----------



## USlatin

hey guys just a little bit of an update on the stability of my OC (sig)

"The Valley" in LA gets hotter than the rest of LA because of the heat getting trapped and this last week things got quite crazy... we had close to or slightly above 110F like five days straight and since I am up on the loft things were not wonderful inside the house either although I ran the AC 24hs a day... the thing just couldn't keep up with the sun... I was running the whole rig like crazy while editing day after day through the heat with all fans on full rpm

Ambients hit up to 85 but at about 78 I started to have problems which got worse... I did get a couple of BSODs and a fer crashes of my editing software...

I can't be certain what gave but I can say that the NB is barely holding on to these settings sot very well might be the weak link...


----------



## Treatment X

lol I didn't know you were in the Valley either. As am I. I haven't been crashing at 3.6ghz, but prior to the heat wave, I was running 3.8ghz daily, and the occasional BSOD (twice in the 5-day heat wave), so toned it down to a 3.6ghz and was smooth as silk on the EVGA. Switch USLatin switch!

j/k.

I do feel that the P5N32-E was a good board, really good, just not for quads. Prior to, I also believe the same thing, what kept my E6700 at the time from clocking more was the occasional NB overheating during hot days.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chityuulay*


but without overclock setting , my mobo doesn't have any of those issue ^.^. like i tried go in bio and reset to the defult setting..and boot without a problem. but i want to make my cpu aleast 2.8 to 3.0. hehe am i too greedy?


No, you're not too greedy.
If you're going to troubleshoot it you need to reduce the number of variables.
Have you applied Robilars' settings on page 1?


----------



## silentsun

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


More sticks add latency and are harder to overclock. So performance actually decreases.
4Gb in a 32 bit OS is practically worthless.
Over 2 Gb in a 32 bit OS with a Creative card will possibly result in a loss of hardware acceleration for sound.


True about the 4Gb in a 32bit OS but I need all the ram I can get. 3.25 is what I can use. But I am willing to go Down to Two gigs if I can get sticks that will OC better.Just wanted to know though with latency added but a Quad channel set up wont that add anything?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *silentsun* 
True about the 4Gb in a 32bit OS but I need all the ram I can get. 3.25 is what I can use. But I am willing to go Down to Two gigs if I can get sticks that will OC better.Just wanted to know though with latency added but a Quad channel set up wont that add anything?

Not in regards to performance.
Vista64 4Gb latency at stock mem 77ns
XP32 2Gb latency at mem overclock 42ns


----------



## chityuulay

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
No, you're not too greedy.
If you're going to troubleshoot it you need to reduce the number of variables.
Have you applied Robilars' settings on page 1?

Robilar's setting? i duno what that is. all i did was on Extreme tweaker page.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Treatment X* 
lol I didn't know you were in the Valley either. As am I. I haven't been crashing at 3.6ghz, but prior to the heat wave, I was running 3.8ghz daily, and the occasional BSOD (twice in the 5-day heat wave), so toned it down to a 3.6ghz and was smooth as silk on the EVGA. Switch USLatin switch!

j/k.

I do feel that the P5N32-E was a good board, really good, just not for quads. Prior to, I also believe the same thing, what kept my E6700 at the time from clocking more was the occasional NB overheating during hot days.

You kiddin' me? LOL

We should have our own two man LAN lol!

Yea dude... I want to switch so freaking bad! but I have to kick this project out first... then I'll be up to speed and I'll have time to switch MoBos... I very well might go with the EVGA...

Latin


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chityuulay*


Robilar's setting? i duno what that is. all i did was on Extreme tweaker page.


Read page one of this thread.
Apply the settings that Robilar has suggested and report back.


----------



## The_Rocker

This board likes quads but not when you try to push them over 3.2... But still... a 3.2 quad is very very fast.

I have mine running at 3 at the moment. When i get my new ram i will push for 3.2


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


This board likes quads but not when you try to push them over 3.2... But still... a 3.2 quad is very very fast.

I have mine running at 3 at the moment. When i get my new ram i will push for 3.2


The q6600 will go to 3.375 on this board. That is the wall unmodified.


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


The q6600 will go to 3.375 on this board. That is the wall unmodified.


Yeah, and i want to know how you did it.... I can post at 1450, but 1460 doesn't and just freezes at the start of the post screen.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*


Yeah, and i want to know how you did it.... I can post at 1450, but 1460 doesn't and just freezes at the start of the post screen.


Try jumping to 1500. I think you might be at a hole.


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Try jumping to 1500. I think you might be at a hole.


1500 same thing....freezes at post


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*


1500 same thing....freezes at post


Voltages?
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=230663


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Voltages?
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=230663


I think it's because i have a B3, for some reason everyone i have seen with a G0 seems to be able to achieve around 150Mhz more than the B3's. Maybe the board like G0 i dunno..

CPU Vcore: 1.375v <-------- should be more than enough
Memory: 2.00v <-------- is stock volts for my Reapers
1.2HT: 1.35v <-------- makes no difference from what i can see
NB Voltage: 1.35v <-------- tried 1.4v still no go
SB Votage: 1.50v <-------- never altered this ever
CPU VTT: 1.50v <---------- tried 1.55v still no go

I tried 1500, 1600 & 1700 QDR even with multi set to x8 or x7 freezes at the absolute start of turn the machine on and see the 1st part of the post screen


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*


I think it's because i have a B3, for some reason everyone i have seen with a G0 seems to be able to achieve around 150Mhz more than the B3's. Maybe the board like G0 i dunno..

CPU Vcore: 1.375v <-------- should be more than enough
Memory: 2.00v <-------- is stock volts for my Reapers
1.2HT: 1.35v <-------- makes no difference from what i can see
NB Voltage: 1.35v <-------- tried 1.4v still no go
SB Votage: 1.50v <-------- never altered this ever
CPU VTT: 1.50v <---------- tried 1.55v still no go

I tried 1500, 1600 & 1700 QDR even with multi set to x8 or x7 freezes at the absolute start of turn the machine on and see the 1st part of the post screen


Staying with your list.
1.3875
2.2
1.2
1.4
1.5
1.55
The actuals are a little diff, but that is what is set in the BIOS.
Regarding the B3s....that's why everyone wants the GOs.
Also, congrats on your monitor decision....heaven is just around the corner.


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Staying with your list.
1.3875
2.2
1.2
1.4
1.5
1.55
The actuals are a little diff, but that is what is set in the BIOS.
Regarding the B3s....that's why everyone wants the GOs.
Also, congrats on your monitor decision....heaven is just around the corner.


Thanks i just hope 1920x1200 isn't too punishing in the latest title with my rig.


----------



## Litlratt

Latest will be liquid smooth.
Upcoming will be the test.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


The q6600 will go to 3.375 on this board. That is the wall unmodified.


but not on air LitlRatt


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


but not on air LitlRatt











He hates it when you Capitalise the R.....

Don't you Litl*R*att


----------



## Litlratt

2 t's mhill.
@US
I don't know if it will or not. Have you tried a good hs and fan? hehehe
@mhill
much better


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

USlatin,

I just saw your mobo cooling & was wondering what SB cooler you have? Think it'll fit beneath my HR-03+?



BTW, with 620/2000 OC on the 8800, I'm still under 50(c) under load... and added 700 pts to 3dm! Too bad I'm not stable any faster (I don't know how to overvolt).

Cheers,

d


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
USlatin,

I just saw your mobo cooling & was wondering what SB cooler you have? Think it'll fit beneath my HR-03+?



BTW, with 620/2000 OC on the 8800, I'm still under 50(c) under load... and added 700 pts to 3dm! Too bad I'm not stable any faster (I don't know how to overvolt).

Cheers,

d

The vantec IceberQ will fit fine under that on the SB (it fits under a sound card in the middle slot which has much lower clearance).

http://www.vantecusa.com/product-cooling.html#

CCB-A1C is the copper model.

The fan is a bit loud though


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
The vantec IceberQ will fit fine under that on the SB (it fits under a sound card in the middle slot which has much lower clearance).
(SNIP!)
The fan is a bit loud though

Haha! I just spent a week with a 92mm Tornado cooling my GTX (replacement fan arrives today). I'm no longer worried about volume. The thing sounds like a vacuum cleaner!

I do have a question for you regarding 3dm scores. I have a lower CPU score than a lot of people with a QX6700 because they have much higher FSB, but I can't seem to get mine as high on this board. I've heard 680i isn't the best for quad FSB OC, but how are others doing it... and for that matter, why is the Q6600 so easy to OC the FSB? They're both Kentsfield, n'est-ce pas?

Thanks for providing the link to the SB cooler. I feel like I'm in the ghetto using my stock NB with the pipe cut off!

Cheers,

d


----------



## Robilar

First, why worry about FSB? you and I have the advantage of an unlocked cpu. If you will notice my cpu, I only upped the multi. I am running day to day at 3.724 Ghz (on a dual core mind you) with only 1.42 Vcore. If I went the FSB route, I would need much higher vcore and obviously higher temps. Second, the newer Q6600 GO stepping processors run much cooler than the older cpu's like yours and mine and as such have more latitude (they need less vcore for stability) in the OC department.

Finally, there is an FSB ceiling on this board with quads. It's unfortunate although later bios revisions may address this but with your chip, up the multi a notch or two and then crank the FSB slightly and you can get pretty much whatever your cooling can handle.

On a cooling note, I have the Zalman 9700 as well (I also have a thermalright ultra 120 extreme with a silverstone FM121 fan that I am getting lapped in the meantime). the zalman is a decent cooler but for your cpu and decent overclocks you need the top coolers which are either my thermalright or the tuniq tower. Between my two HS, there is almost a 10C difference at load. On a quad it will be even more pronounced.

Cheers


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Thanks for the response. I was just wondering why lower core speeds were giving people better 3dm scores with a larger FSB on the same chip. It might just be a Vista thing (or 3dm isn't the perfect benchmark) I guess.

I feel pretty good about my current temps (right now Tcore 30, Tjunction 54, 52, 46, 47 at idle in ambient 28), so I was wondering where to go next; I was thinking that since my 3dm CPU score is 1000 less than either of my others, I could open up the FSB a bit. Because of your suggestions, I would like to try your route first.

Thanks a tonne for this thread. I'm quite active on the nv forum and point anyone with one of these boards towards here. Lots of REP+.

Cheers,

d


----------



## USlatin

I'm using the Evercool which is just the same style as the Vantec... Litl*R*att has the same one and a nice pic of it in his gallery $8!

I have a nice NB HS the Noctua which is also lapped but the fan is "only" a 17CMF fan with one spade missing







I could go higher CMF there but why? soon I'll be using a different board and the 5 day heat-wave is over...


----------



## chityuulay

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
Read page one of this thread.
Apply the settings that Robilar has suggested and report back.

Oh yea. i did exactly what that page shows me. and i can't seem to boot up with that setting. as soon as i set itup and save the setting i can't boot up computer anymore..seem like no power at all . the reason i found out no power on mobo is that my optic mouse doesn't light up at all. and it just no video , and no nothing. so ihave to trun off powersupply and reboot then it just went into defult setting all over again..


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chityuulay*


Oh yea. i did exactly what that page shows me. and i can't seem to boot up with that setting. as soon as i set itup and save the setting i can't boot up computer anymore..seem like no power at all . the reason i found out no power on mobo is that my optic mouse doesn't light up at all. and it just no video , and no nothing. so ihave to trun off powersupply and reboot then it just went into defult setting all over again..


What BIOS were you using prior to all the problems?
Have you tried flashing back to that one?

@USratin
Is CMF cubic minutes per feet?


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


What BIOS were you using prior to all the problems?
Have you tried flashing back to that one?

@USratin
Is CMF cubic minutes per feet?


I think it's cubic miles per fortnight.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hey, thanks. I have one of those on the way because it looks slightly cooler than the Vantec. $8? Wow. Hope it works (although I'm sure it's far better than having the ghetto-rigged NB cooler with heatpipe cut off).

Cheers,

d


----------



## USlatin

@ WrittleWratt,
no, you got it all wrong it is cubic menstrual-cycles per fight


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Does anyone know where CPU-Z pulls "Core Voltage" from? Mine is reporting 1.6 concurrently with Everest reporting 1.39 (set to 1.425 in BIOS).


----------



## Robilar

Use ntune 5.05.18. It will give accurate core voltage readings. cpu-z is usually off for some reason.


----------



## seanandnik

Guys I need a little help here,(actually a lot of help) I just installed 2 TT Spirit II's and the swiftech heatsinks and was all ready to do some oc'ing. I am running Bios 1205 with a e6850, well in the bios on the tweaker page and the oc set to manual i see i have a multi of 9 but nowhere does it list fsb speed with the ability to changew it. in the memory and clocks section if i go linked or unlinked it shows my fsb at 1333, when i go to enter a figure it says"enter a DEC number between 533 and 3000" what is this ? if i set to linked and at 5:4 my fsb runs at 1333 and my mem at 1066, which is what i want but what am i doing wrong here? i have checked all voltages and reset everything back to auto and wanted to wait for some knowledge from here. right now Vcore is 1.32 cpu vtt is 1.24, NB is 1.23, SB is 1.52 and mem i upped to 2.10. my screen flashes every now and then though like not enough power or something, come on guys please help me here...


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *seanandnik* 
Guys I need a little help here,(actually a lot of help) I just installed 2 TT Spirit II's and the swiftech heatsinks and was all ready to do some oc'ing. I am running Bios 1205 with a e6850, well in the bios on the tweaker page and the oc set to manual i see i have a multi of 9 but nowhere does it list fsb speed with the ability to changew it. in the memory and clocks section if i go linked or unlinked it shows my fsb at 1333, when i go to enter a figure it says"enter a DEC number between 533 and 3000" what is this ? if i set to linked and at 5:4 my fsb runs at 1333 and my mem at 1066, which is what i want but what am i doing wrong here? i have checked all voltages and reset everything back to auto and wanted to wait for some knowledge from here. right now Vcore is 1.32 cpu vtt is 1.24, NB is 1.23, SB is 1.52 and mem i upped to 2.10. my screen flashes every now and then though like not enough power or something, come on guys please help me here...

Read page 1.
The DEC number is the fsb X 4. You can enter it manually or use the numpad + and - keys.
Make changes according to page 1 and report back.


----------



## seanandnik

i did read page one, as well as every other page, but i don't remember reading that. sorry..


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *seanandnik* 
i did read page one, as well as every other page, but i don't remember reading that. sorry..

No need to apologize. It didn't appear as though you had read it as your voltages seemed off for attempting to overclock.


----------



## seanandnik

what do you mean my voltages are off? please i need the input..i just cannot get this thing to oc, i have tried memory linked, unlinked, fsb (i didn't know the dec # was fsb by 4) at 1333 with a 10 multi, fsb at 1400 with a 9. fsb at 1400 x9 is only 3.15, but still no boot, i raised my vcore up to 1.4 and then 1.45 but still no post, a few times i had to reset cmos to get into bios.i raised nb and sb as well. what is the 1.24 ht voltage? i always left it on auto. also shopuld i be changing ddrII referance voltages? there are channels A+B, though i do not know what they are, also in bios under IDE Function setup there is a setting for on chip ide channel 10, disable or not as well ide prefetch mode and dma transfer? where am i going wrong? are my voltages too low?


----------



## seanandnik

guys thanks for all your help but I decided that I know my limitations and I just do not know enough about fsb,ram and etc. to be trying to OC. I am not a gamer and do not run any really cpu intensive programs therefore stock 3.0 and ddrII 1066 is fine, if not already overkill for what I do. I am thinking of returning my mobo (i have until 9/15 to decide) and getting a Gigabyte p35-ds3r. I am not going to run sli and do not need 3 pci x 16 slots, too many oc options for me and this board seems too unstable for me, am i wrong? is this new board a good choice? I think I want to try intels chipset, the p35 is their newest right? what is a good stable 775 cpu, 1333 fsb, non sli, p35 board then?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seanandnik*


guys thanks for all your help but I decided that I know my limitations and I just do not know enough about fsb,ram and etc. to be trying to OC. I am not a gamer and do not run any really cpu intensive programs therefore stock 3.0 and ddrII 1066 is fine, if not already overkill for what I do. I am thinking of returning my mobo (i have until 9/15 to decide) and getting a Gigabyte p35-ds3r. I am not going to run sli and do not need 3 pci x 16 slots, too many oc options for me and this board seems too unstable for me, am i wrong? is this new board a good choice? I think I want to try intels chipset, the p35 is their newest right? what is a good stable 775 cpu, 1333 fsb, non sli, p35 board then?


The intel chipset is a better choice if you're not going to SLI.
http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/


----------



## seanandnik

i think i am going to get an Abit ip35 pro tomorrow, seems to have everything i want and has awesome reviews on Newegg and other sites, thoughts? and this will be last post, sorry for hijacking your thread with my problems.


----------



## USlatin

Vegas keeps crashing! AAAGHHHH!!!!!

some sort of Memory problem... but different messages... most ofthem say something likeur NB is too much of a sissy or something like that









Oh well... looks like I need to back off to 3.26... and switch MoBos sooner than I want to...

we'll see if I hit the stability I need at 3.26GHz... if so then I might hold out for X38 and DDR3 compatibility... otherwise I am going EVGA or maybe Abit... ASUS has no 35 + SLI boards otherwise I'd stick it out with the ASUS guys...


----------



## Makav3li

I have this mb with a Q6600 G0 and 2gb of crucial ballistix pc8500 ram. I overclocked the processor to 3.0GHz (1333 fsb) and am trying to decide on what settings are right for the ram speeds. Right now i'm running them linked with a 5/4 ratio (1333/1066). I could choose them linked 1/1 (1333/1333 haven't tested to see if it would work), 3/2 (1333/800) or I could manually set the speed at something else. What is a good recommendation for this overclock? Also, what kind of ram timings do you think are normal for this setup? I haven't changed the ram timings from their stock settings. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.


----------



## seanandnik

Well I went with a Gigabyte P35-DS3R, installed my e6850, 4gb Crucial Tracer 1066, and my 2 TT Spirit II's and Zalman with AS5, plug everything in and it posted first press of the power button. I was so happy to be done with worrying if it is going to post and am very happy with the P35 board so far. Thanks for all the help guys anyways


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Makav3li* 
I have this mb with a Q6600 G0 and 2gb of crucial ballistix pc8500 ram. I overclocked the processor to 3.0GHz (1333 fsb) and am trying to decide on what settings are right for the ram speeds. Right now i'm running them linked with a 5/4 ratio (1333/1066). I could choose them linked 1/1 (1333/1333 haven't tested to see if it would work), 3/2 (1333/800) or I could manually set the speed at something else. What is a good recommendation for this overclock? Also, what kind of ram timings do you think are normal for this setup? I haven't changed the ram timings from their stock settings. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Of your listed options the first would yield the better results. The second probably won't POST. Depending on what you do, for 24/7 use, RAM speed and timings other than extremes are hardly noticeable. For benching, there can be a huge difference.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *seanandnik* 
Well I went with a Gigabyte P35-DS3R, installed my e6850, 4gb Crucial Tracer 1066, and my 2 TT Spirit II's and Zalman with AS5, plug everything in and it posted first press of the power button. I was so happy to be done with worrying if it is going to post and am very happy with the P35 board so far. Thanks for all the help guys anyways

Congrats


----------



## USlatin

I toned down the FSB to 1450 for 3.26 which was much more stable when I first OC'ed but that gave me only 3hs of Prime?!?!?

I went down to 950MHz on the RAM and though it seems it is still a bit more stable I haven't tested and I still crashed a few times...

on the board's defense the crashing takes place when editing with 10 layers of audio and two layers of 1080p footage while also having Sound Forge (audio) and Photoshop open, sometimes Firefox too... so I am taxing the crap out of the rig, yet crashing is unacceptable... and why the crap am I getting 3hs of Prime when I got 12 before?!?

I may have to try 900MHz and leave the voltages at what I had them for the 3.3GHz 1000MHz clock.... but if that doesn't get this thing back to stable ground I am thinking I might not be able to wait for X38's...


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
I toned down the FSB to 1450 for 3.26 which was much more stable when I first OC'ed but that gave me only 3hs of Prime?!?!?

I went down to 950MHz on the RAM and though it seems it is still a bit more stable I haven't tested and I still crashed a few times...

on the board's defense the crashing takes place when editing with 10 layers of audio and two layers of 1080p footage while also having Sound Forge (audio) and Photoshop open, sometimes Firefox too... so I am taxing the crap out of the rig, yet crashing is unacceptable... and why the crap am I getting 3hs of Prime when I got 12 before?!?

I may have to try 900MHz and leave the voltages at what I had them for the 3.3GHz 1000MHz clock.... but if that doesn't get this thing back to stable ground I am thinking I might not be able to wait for X38's...

Have you memtested at the questionable speed and voltages for the RAM? If it's good there.........
EXTREMELY doubtful the X38 is going to offer anything for the SLIer. I ordered an EVGA T1 10 minutes ago. If I didn't need SLI I would have waited.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Vista users: 163.67 released today:
http://www.nvidia.com/object/vista_d...ws_091007.html


----------



## morrow

Hello,
Thanks for any help in advance!
I have recently purchased a P5N32-E and a Q6600 processor.
I was going to purchase the RAM below, since it is on the QAV list:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145590

Here is my general plan from my limited knowledge. Please feel free to correct me:
I would like to OC the Q6600 to 400FSB, so it would be consistant with the RAM and NB/SB. From reading this site, that sounds very feasible with an aftermarket CPU heatsink. Would you reccomend aftermarket NB/SB heatsinks too? Or will the stock suffice? I don't plan on OCing beyond 400FSB.

Next, does anyone here reccomend a somewhat-affordable PSU? I am currently deciding.

Thanks so much,
Morrow


----------



## USlatin

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139001

I'd try to spend a tad more on the RAM if that one is going to limit you... and I'd also RMA the MoBo if you are still in time to do so and go with the EVGA instead


----------



## morrow

Thanks for the response!
Which RAM would you reccomend me to get, over what I linked? This was the only Corsair RAM that was on the QAV list...I think









Also, do you reccomend an aftermarket heatsink for overclocking?

Thanks!


----------



## mba2dna

There is still no confirmation on X38 whether it could support SLI or not. Actually I am also waiting for that. My next hope would be upcoming X48. Rumors say it will be available few weeks after X38.


----------



## slehcim

Hey, im having some serious problems with what im fairly sure is either the power supply or the motherboard.

only after my computer has been on for quite some time does the screen start occasionally flashing black with greater frequence when anything video related is happening on screen. ati tool errors with the yellow artifatcts fairly quickly (within the first few minutes). as for games, they become unplayable soon after starting them for the most part.

ive tried using a diff video card and the same problem continued to occur.

when the problems are occuring alot, and i try to restart the computer using windows, it will often shut down windows completely to leave me with a black screen, (monitor on and working) computer still running but nothing actually happening.

my cpu runs cool and can do orthos for many hrs without fail.

i have gone over the connectors in the case and as far as i can tell everything is kosher, but when i turn it back on after a while of being off the problem seems to dissappear until many hrs later it starts to happen again.

bioshock plays fine for a while then will start to hitch and finally display graphical anomalies.

i havent run a full memtest battery as i doubt that could cause any/all of the above, but im about to.

im not sure if there is any way to test the motherboard for stability, but im open to suggestions.

basically has anyone else expireinced, heard of, or has any idea on how to fix these problems i would be most aprriciative.


----------



## chityuulay

my motherboard has werid problem, i can't seem to set anything in mobo bio for overclock setting. it wouldn't just work. but i can overclock with asus booster for 2.8 and seem so stable. anyting i change in bios, then in windows wouldn't just recognized anyting.anyone has anyidea?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *morrow* 
Thanks for the response!
Which RAM would you reccomend me to get, over what I linked? This was the only Corsair RAM that was on the QAV list...I think









Also, do you reccomend an aftermarket heatsink for overclocking?

Thanks!

USlatin, your link was to a PSU!

Anyway, Morrow, the QVL is just a list of what is officially tested on this board. It does not mean no other RAM will work on it. That being said, however, this board is finicky with RAM, so if you get something not on the QVL (which is HIGHLY recommended), you should ensure you can return them if they don't work. A lot of people on this board get PC2-8500 (rated to 1066), but underclock them to tighter timings. You can look at this link to understand why:
http://www.legionhardware.com/document.php?id=674&p=0

A lot of people like to get RAM with the Micron chip, which is pretty much one of two different chip mfgrs. You can either google the RAM you intent to buy, or you can just buy some Crucial (Ballistix), which are the same company as Micron.

With regards to your CPU HSF, you absolutely must install something aftermarket when you're OCing. If I were you, I would look at page one of this thread, making certain I understood it completely before planning my OC.

Cheers,

d


----------



## Robilar

My contact at Asus stated that he had heard rumours about the X38 supporting SLI but none of the rumours were _internal_. As far as he is aware the X38 will support Crossfire native and multi-gpu nvidia cards (meaning multiple monitor support) but not SLI.

Either we wait for nvidia's new chipset (the 790) for SLI or live with it.

The only reason we are having issues is with quads. This board is still fantastic for dual core processors. I've gotten over 500 FSB easily with a number of cpu's and hit just over 500 FSB (504 to be precise) with an E6850. There looks to be an FSB wall on the new GO stepping processors as I have gotten over 530 FSB with the older generation dual cores (E6600, an E6700, and my X6800).

The people that are going to be wanting to switch are the ones who haven't gone sli yet and picked up one of the GO Q6600 cpu's.

The X38 had better be frickin fantastic for overclocking though. I picked up the asus blitz formula yesterday (I'm debating about going crossfire with a pair of X2900XT's) and was able to get just shy of 600 FSB with my X6800 on air in about 20 minutes of screwing around.

Unless the DDR2 versions of the X38 are "much" better at stock and can routinely hit over 600 FSB without crazy cooling, they almost seem redundant over the Asus blitz boards with their crosslinx technology (you can run a crossfire rig at full 8x8x instead of 16x4x or 8x4x depending on the intel chipset board). There is no functional difference between 16x16x and 8x8x in crossfire so I have to wonder why the new chipset except to push the DDR3 market.

Its ironic because the asus blitz formula (DDR2 board) hits much higher FSB than its more expensive DDR3 cousin the Blitz extreme and is faster at stock in every bench (marginally though).

Nvidia had better figure something out with all these new quad cores that intel released. They overclock poorly on all the 680i chipsets (although the new EVGA revisions are a definite improvement). How can you push SLI as a technology when the motherboard puts limitations in place for CPU overclocking. I can understand why they don't want to liscence SLI to intel chipset boards as it would pretty much kill their intel SLI board sales but right now, I am considering selling my 8800gtx and getting a pair of ATI cards for a Crossfire setup. They are cheaper and provide almost as strong a performance as a pair of 8800gtx in sli. Plus, I have had numerous issues with SLI'd 8800GTX and game compatibility all the way from games like Ghost Recon Advanced warfighter (Which came with the 8800gtx), Call of Duty 2, FEAR, and older titles like Age of Wonders. As soon as I disabled SLI, the games worked properly. Now this was back a few months ago with older drivers but it seems all the driver releases nvidia has issued amount to fixing game compatibility issues. Why is this? With my old pair of 7900gtx in sli, I never had a single gaming issue (except I think with Aliens vs. predator way back).

As such The viability of SLI is starting to concern me. I just picked up a 22" widescreen LCD and was planning to run maxed out with a pair of 8800GTX in SLI but bad history is starting to make me look at ATI and an intel chipset board as an option. Not to mention, I have a QX6850 Quad chip ready and I'll bet that it will overclock much better on the P35 board than it does the nvidia, even with its unlocked multi.


----------



## zelavon

Soon this thread won't even be about the P5N32-E.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
USlatin, your link was to a PSU!

he needed one of those too

Robilar, EXACTLY! While you add a ton more SLI knowledge to it those are my feelings too... it is a pickle... I have to live with the instability till I submit this film the 19th but then I can take some time to mess around... I don't need SLI... but I need two video cards for 3 monitors to run together... but if I want to run two cards in XP and since it can't be an 8 series with a 7 series due to compatibility issues with their control panels.. then I am thinking I want to stay in the SLI world... if I am going to have two 8-series then why the freak not SLI them babies...

I have no clue about the release timeline for 780i chips and I am not sure if I should go to a DDR2/3 X38 board or not while it used to seem like the best bet for future-proofing...

Now I thought you'd be able to go high on the P5n32-E SLI with your extreme quad so you'd be happy, but it sounds like you might have just about had it already... when r you switching? Are you? R u going EVGA for now then X38?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
he needed one of those too

Robilar, EXACTLY! While you add a ton more SLI knowledge to it those are my feelings too... it is a pickle... I have to live with the instability till I submit this film the 19th but then I can take some time to mess around... I don't need SLI... but I need two video cards for 3 monitors to run together... but if I want to run two cards in XP and since it can't be an 8 series with a 7 series due to compatibility issues with their control panels.. then I am thinking I want to stay in the SLI world... if I am going to have two 8-series then why the freak not SLI them babies...

I have no clue about the release timeline for 780i chips and I am not sure if I should go to a DDR2/3 X38 board or not while it used to seem like the best bet for future-proofing...

Now I thought you'd be able to go high on the P5n32-E SLI with your extreme quad so you'd be happy, but it sounds like you might have just about had it already... when r you switching? Are you? R u going EVGA for now then X38?

I don't need to go EVGA. If I switch boards, I will go either with an Asus Blitz Formula (which I played with for the past weekend) and a crossfire setup or wait a couple of weeks and go with an x38 board and a crossfire setup. The X38 as I mentioned above is going to have to be signifigantly better than the Blitz Formula (a tall task!) for me to bother with it over the Blitz.

My extreme Quad will not have any issues with my current board as the multi is unlocked. I'll be able to create a ratio between increased multi and upped FSB until I hit where my cooling will allow (a lapped thermalright ultra 120 extreme and a monster fan).

Don't get me wrong, if I hadn't had issues with SLI'd 8800GTX (the only thing they ran properly on a consistent basis when I had them were the futuremark benches, coincidence? I think not), I'd likely stay with the P5N32-E as its been a really great board otherwise. I can run my X6800 at 3.9 Ghz on air stable pretty much indefinitely although the temps are high enough from increased vcore for me not to bother shortening the lifespan of my chip.

Nvidia did a good job with this chipset but now they need to either get to work with intel (not likely) or provide a newer chipset that provides similar overclocking capabilities to that of the intel P35 board with dual or quad core processors.

Incidently, I've been able to go as high as 544 FSB with the P5N32-E (at a 7x multi). Whoever said it didn't compare back in the beginning to the Intel P965 boards like the P5B deluxe was wrong.

I probably will grab another 8800gtx and give it a try again with the games I run. With the various driver revisions and my unlocked new cpu, if it runs the games stable, I will have no need to switch.

Fingers crossed!


----------



## Litlratt

Robilar:

Depending on the games that you played and how long ago it was that you SLIed, I think you'll find that support and compatibility has increased with each driver release. I enjoy shooters and I can't think of a single game that I play that SLI doesn't work with.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
he needed one of those too(SNIP!)

Whoops. My bad. I just see what I want to.

I bought a Tuniq 120 since my Zalman is still in the RMA window. It looks like the HS contacts are really rough. Any recommendations for lapping this monster? It'll be my first go at it.


----------



## USlatin

I had great success with a nice and rough 250 grit paper first, two sheets... there is a lot of surface on the contact block so to speed things up go real coarse and then just jump to 600 but you might want to do two sheets also to get it sorta smooth... and then go real high like 1500... then after that sheet is toast you can either go higher or just do one more 1500... the mirror finish is easily achieved with Brasso abrasive metal polish (so I've heard)... then slip a Silverstone in there and use your TT's fan as a case fan









Robilar... what do you recommend I do? I need to get rid of this problem and will look into buying the new MoBo at the end of this month...
Now I want SLI not crossfire since I really don't want to be switching Video-cards also... EVGA?


----------



## Robilar

Well US, given litlratt's point above regarding the progression of drivers, I don't think that will help your situation compared to mine. I primarily game with my system while you are using yours for some serious video editing. As SLI seems to be your chosen path, you could switch over to the EVGA Quad revised board. I built one not long ago with a Q6700 and was able to hit 445 FSB without too much effort (but high heat output) . With your 9x multi, even 400 FSB would probably be sufficient for your needs.

Litlratt, I last had SLI 8800GTX before the start of the summer so you may be right. I primarily had issues with Ghost Recon and Call of Duty 2.


----------



## IcedEarth

Hey can anyone give me a little bit of guidance with this board?

I just need to know what is the maximum voltage is should set it to on air?

Voltages as follows:

HT - 1.35
SB - 1.6
NB - 1.30
VVT - 1.55 (maxed)

Is it safe to take the NB/SB further is the colling is sufficient? Will be WC the chipset soon enough

Also, what is a safe FSB for this board? I am currently at 456, but don't want to try 480+ in fear of the board blowing up









Rep+ for answers.


----------



## Robilar

You nb is too low., 1.45 is where you should start and aftermarket cooling is a must on the nb (the sb helps as well and you'll need sinks on the exposed vrm;s)

I'v gotten as high as 534 (at nearly 1.6 vcore mind you).

The board will puke if you push the FSB too high without extra cooling on the northbridge. Cognoscenti here has fried a couple of boards that way.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Well US, given litlratt's point above regarding the progression of drivers, I don't think that will help your situation compared to mine. I primarily game with my system while you are using yours for some serious video editing. As SLI seems to be your chosen path, you could switch over to the EVGA Quad revised board. I built one not long ago with a Q6700 and was able to hit 445 FSB without too much effort (but high heat output) . With your 9x multi, even 400 FSB would probably be sufficient for your needs.


Yup... that is what I keep staring at... 3.6 and possibilities of 4.0 are what any other board will give you with the Q6600 Go and the EVGA is giving you SLI and that "unlocked" Q66G0 Quad OC'ing potential today...

I really hate to part ways with both ASUS and "the guys"







though Little*M*ouse just purchased one which means I wouldn't be alone.... Treatment X has been there for quite some time now too.. that would make three of us... heheh... such a dumb thing but I do find comfort in knowing that there are two buddies out there whom you can PM int he event of a bug or something popping up...

Anywho...
1. How much for the Blitz? When?
2. How much for the first SLI X38? When? (~ of course)


----------



## Litlratt

My initial impression of this new board isn't very good as it failed after 2 hours of running.
I was well over the ASUS wall, but it doesn't do much good if it won't POST.
A record RMA for me.

@Robilar
I'm not familiar with the games you mentioned, but I consider the SLI performance in all the ones that I have installed to be good to very good. I game at 25X16 at all games other than a couple poorly optimized ones and they're at 19X12.


----------



## USlatin

How much did you play with the settings before you RMA'ed?

Did you just plug in other's settings? Give it a good try before you give up on it.. I've heard nothing but good reports about the board...


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
How much did you play with the settings before you RMA'ed?

Did you just plug in other's settings? Give it a good try before you give up on it.. I've heard nothing but good reports about the board...









I don't want to jack this thread with it, but I spent enough time on it to know that it needed to be replaced.


----------



## slytown

Great board. Took a beating when I installed it and works like a charm.

I'm confusing myself, what cooling do I need if I am just overclocking my E6750? I have a Tuniq Tower 120. Do I need the TT north/southbridge coolers too?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I had great success with a nice and rough 250 grit paper first, two sheets... there is a lot of surface on the contact block so to speed things up go real coarse and then just jump to 600 but you might want to do two sheets also to get it sorta smooth... and then go real high like 1500... then after that sheet is toast you can either go higher or just do one more 1500... the mirror finish is easily achieved with Brasso abrasive metal polish (so I've heard)... then slip a Silverstone in there and use your TT's fan as a case fan







(SNIP!)


Thanks for the tips. It arrived yesterday, so I have a good weekend project to look forward to. It looked like I could screw off the contact block to make lapping infinitely easier, but it wouldn't come off... did you try this, or just lap it with the whole thing intact?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


My initial impression of this new board isn't very good as it failed after 2 hours of running.
I was well over the ASUS wall, but it doesn't do much good if it won't POST.
A record RMA for me.

@Robilar
I'm not familiar with the games you mentioned, but I consider the SLI performance in all the ones that I have installed to be good to very good. I game at 25X16 at all games other than a couple poorly optimized ones and they're at 19X12.


I wasn't referring to actual FPS in games like Ghost Recon, more along the lines of occasional crashes and BSODS with SLI enabled. I ended up changing power supplies (Twice), the motherboard, both 8800gtx cards (and went from BFG to Asus for both as well). Even at stock I had issues. Again this was in March of this year back when SLI 8800gtx drivers were in their infancy but still is was annoying because all of the futuremark benches ran flawlessly. I also had problems with Call of Duty 2, FEAR, and a couple of older titles (like Age of Wonders Shadow Magic, which showed corrupted graphics in SLI even though it ran perfectly on SLI'd 7900GTX. Thats one of the reasons I switched out hardware, thinking I had a defect somewhere.)

As I stated above though, the most frustrating aspect was that all of the games I play ran great on my pair of 7900gtx (With the same board, ram, Power supply etc) in SLI. As soon as I went to 8800gtx SLI, the problems started. What drove me nuts was that a game would crash, and then I could run 3dmark06 over and over again without a hiccup. Didn't matter if I ran everything at stock. Of course the first culprit was power supply but I could run dual instances of rthibl (for those of you that don;t know its a graphics app that maxes out stress on video cards) for 6 hours without failing. There is no way games like Call of Duty 2 or FEAR could provide more stress on my GPU's than rthibl could. It also pretty much disproved the whole "inadequate power supply theory".

USLatin, the Blitz Formula is available in North America but its hard to find stock (NCIX is a retailer here that stocks it. I get it direct from a distributor that sells to NCIX here in Toronto).


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


Great board. Took a beating when I installed it and works like a charm.

I'm confusing myself, what cooling do I need if I am just overclocking my E6750? I have a Tuniq Tower 120. Do I need the TT north/southbridge coolers too?


You will need cooling on the northbridge unless you intend only to run at stock.


----------



## Litlratt

Robilar:

I think you'll find the more recent drivers stable now.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Thanks for the tips. It arrived yesterday, so I have a good weekend project to look forward to. It looked like I could screw off the contact block to make lapping infinitely easier, but it wouldn't come off... did you try this, or just lap it with the whole thing intact?


no I left it all mounted as it looked like it could get damaged if I took it off... I don't know if you should... it might ruin the contact betweent he pipes and the block...

but be careful in how you hold it or the TT's design will have your hands bleeding! lol


----------



## IcedEarth

Yea, my board doesn't post unless i have my desk fan blowing into the PC (OC'ed)

I was thinking of including the chipset into my WC loop. But not got the money at the moment.

Would you reccomend cooling the NB&SB + mosfets? Or just NB/SB in the loop. I don't even know what mosfets are or were they are lol


----------



## Treatment X

haven't been keeping up with this thread, but definitely would help anyone who's thinking of EVGA. actually would help anyone with anything just PM. I loveeeee the EVGA. If you realllly think about it, if you sell the P5N32-E SLI, and get the EVGA , you'd only lose $20 or so. Just make sure you get the T1 (same board as A1).

I'm doing 3.8ghz daily on a lapped g0 Q6600. Much like other boards doing quads, still needs alot of NB cooling.


----------



## USlatin

That is why I am unsure about considering the Blitz Formula.... the EVGA only sets you back $20 to $40 depending on how much you get for the board while the Blitz is about $60 to $80

for $80 you are too close to being able to buy a 3rd and 4th GB of RAM


----------



## Robilar

True, its expensive but how does 550 FSB sound? On air?


----------



## USlatin

Wow, impressive to say the LEAST, but 550 is more than the Q6600 can handle... as it is for most other chips

4.95GHz is simply not happening on air Robilar... maybe the NB can handle that but what's the point when all it would allow my and my Q66G0-TT120 combo to hit only close to 4.0GHz since the temps would be way off base... maybe on H20 but still...

do we even know what the Q6600's limits really are though? Can it go higher than 4.05GHz?


----------



## Robilar

At a 7x multi, its feasible

If you check the extreme forum, a few guys have gotten 4.1 ghz on a GO stepping Q6600


----------



## USlatin

but what about trying to get the highest multy possible? I remember you guys going on and on about that... so x9... and if I can get 4.05GHz on the EVGA then there is no benefit in getting the Blitz for 0.05GHz

I want to stay with ASUS but the EVGA seems to be rock solid 
(unless your name is Littleratt and you know nothing about OCing)


----------



## Robilar

Thats with a dual core non GO stepping. With the newer cpu's there are less latency issues..

The latest EVGA revision seems to be very solid and would be a good choice given your requirements.


----------



## USlatin

thanks for the info Robilar, good to know that

I guess I might go EVGA... unless there is something magical about the SB on the Blitz for uber fast and safe RAIDs?


----------



## Robilar

The blitz uses an optimized Intel P35 chipset so whatever raid performance they are providing will be similar with the blitz.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I originally bought a Zalman 9700, but it performed no better than my Coolermaster Aquagate 120, so I became annoyed & decided to get the Rolls Royce of air coolers while I was still in the RMA window...

The Tuniq 120 has lowered my temperatures about 5Â© on average idle/load. Granted, the mounting bracket was much worse-off than the Zalman, and I had to lap it (my first go at it, so I lapped my CPU as well)...

Sadly, the Evercool SB HSF I bought didn't fit. In an attempt to mod it, I destroyed it. That's USD$8 down the tube, so I consider the day a net gain.

Abstract:


Outside the box:


I decided to add a Silverstone for some of that 110CFM action:


Mounted:


Cheers,

d


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
The blitz uses an optimized Intel P35 chipset so whatever raid performance they are providing will be similar with the blitz.

So you mean the Blitz and the EVGA are the ones that will be similar right?
I haven't heard about any SB's out there being any better than what we get on the P5N32-E SLI but also it seems most boards will come close or basically match it's performance. This makes me feel that I only need to make sure the board I am switching to isn't a "bad one" and neither the EVGA or the Blitz seem to be... just let me know if you agree with the way I understand the SB situation out there to be if you would... just for peace of mind.


----------



## USlatin

Wow Dostoy! Nice setup bro!!!

How did you break the SB cooler? just get an other one... I found I had to snip the white slot's latch a bit on top of having to push some of the little copper fins down... the fins bent all the way down easily and while not as neat of a job as cutting them would look like it is much safer and easy to simply press them down.... (bend then in half first with little pliers)

Also, is the the NB's cooler you put on the SB... I mean it has to be from the picture... if you can get some sort of airflow through those fins you should be good to go... and I have an idea that can help you recycle the Evercool to get something out of the purchase! The Evercool's fan is a great little 4000rpm fan... get a bit of double sided foam tape... there is one that can take heat... just spend a bit looking for something that will be strong and won't melt off with a bit of heat... then slap that sucker on the side of the HS so the air flows across the HS through it's fins... hope it fits... that little fan is real strong and while said setup didn't work for my NB all to well it should sufice for the SB

Nice setup!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I really appreciate that. Thanks for the compliment.

I broke the Evercool because the mounting bracket was too wide. If you can imagine it's a wide v-shape, I tried to bend it into more of a "V" to narrow the width of the bracket. In so doing, it snapped.

I can't fit my second Tt Spirit2 on there because of the gynamasorous-rex (HR-03+), but I did grind down - as you noticed - the stock NB into a nicely-lapped SB HS. I will try your suggestion with the Evercool fan (really? That tiny thing?), but I do have four Aerocool 89CFM bearing-down on the whole mobo. Maybe I leave things be for now... I dunno.

My next upper, as you suggested, is to find a place for the Tuniq fan. As I followed your suggestion to replace it with the Silverstone, it's leftover. Do you know the CFM? Last Q: I noticed your Tuniq placement has the air blowing upwards... any reason up as opposed to out the backside (hehe, hehe)...

Cheers,

d


----------



## USlatin

I think the TT's CMF is around 70-80 so use that sucka... what case do you have? I fit mine on the window of my A900. Also in the picture you can see why I have it set up blowing upwards which is because of the 200mm blowhole on the A900.

http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho...0/ppuser/35611

And also, on this old picture you can see how I mounted the little 40mm 4000rpm fan on the Noctua while I waited for the 60mm to arrive... if you found the foam which might be like $2 at a walgreens or Home Depot then you might be able to set it up on the SB cooler and plug that little sucker right ot the MoBo about 1 inch away from it... just a thought.

http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho...0/ppuser/35611


----------



## alexisd

500 fsb and 2000 mhz,Playing around again.This is good?


----------



## sneakyrandy

I originally posted this thread somewhere else, but I see now that it fits here. Sorry about that anyone.

I think I might have fried a RAM slot with my p5n32-sli. Anyone else have this experience? Here's my original post (which I am now going to try to close).

"I tried doing a test overclock on my system.

MB: ASUS p5n32-sli deluxe se
chip: e6600 core 2 duo
OS: Vista 64
RAM: 4G of Kingston KVR 667 1.8V

The test OC went ok. I got the northbridge to clock to 2.5. I was just testing. I reset my bios back to normal and now vista is running ungodly slow. I pulled all my ram sticks out and restarted using 1 gig. It ran fine using 1G setups on the first slot.

2G works fine when I use slots 1 and 2 regardless of which sticks I use.

When I load all 4 back in, that's when the problem hits. When I have all 4 in, even BIOS says theres only 3 gigs present, but Vista will say there's 4 (even though it's running and loading incredibly slow)

This board requires using (dimm1A + dimm2A) = (dimm1B + dimm2B) so I can't just use 3 sticks.

Did I just fry a slot? If so, will this start to affect the rest of the board?"


----------



## EAT

Was wondering if anybody has heard of this: (sorry I have a striker extreme but seems they are fairly identical) I can't seem to run my ran at voltages over 1.9v without errors in memtest. I also cant up my speed over 800 mhz at 5,5,5,15,2t without errors (I assume these are related). My fsb o.c. is rock stable although I do see some pretty wicked vdroop and also some diffrences in vcore voltage from bios to cpu-z. Any help would be hugely appreciated. One other question has anybody have any idea what the ddr2 controller ref voltage does(this is listed in overvoltage)??


----------



## Anubis_offline

Hello,
Dear oc friends, just mount a second spirit II on the Sb I came across different in rmp.
Nb TT was running 3300 rpm while the Sb was running at 5414 rpm.
Nb TT was connected to Chass_fan and the Sb to Opt_fan4.
When I put the TT Nb on the Opt_2 the TTâ€™s ran on same rpm.
Before I change anything I have scanned the bios all fanâ€™s at 100% cycle duty.
Little strange, but I know I have very strange P5N32-E think itâ€™s a Dutch thingâ€¦.it donâ€™t like Dutch power wore it doesnâ€™t like my!
Mebie is good idea to check it out what your TT spirit II is donning when you are not looking







!


----------



## DonNiger

Hi,

Are all the Asus Striker//Striker Extreme owners here?


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
Hi,

Are all the Asus Striker//Striker Extreme owners here?


and P5N32-E SLi, P5N32-Plus, yes they are!

Here is nice cpu aircooler test!

http://www.anandtech.com/casecooling...spx?i=3097&p=6


----------



## DonNiger

Thanks. Tried to clock my E4300 yesterday but couldn't go higher than 3,71 Ghz.

I didn't use the setings shown on the first page - thats nice. I'll try thous later.
But what are DDRII controller Ref (A/B) voltages. I could OC better when I set thouse to 2+-0mv (or something like that)
I am sure, there is an answer in this thread but 282 pages....It's toooo much.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anubis_offline* 
Hello,
(SNIP!)
Mebie is good idea to check it out what your TT spirit II is donning when you are not looking







!

I tried my SB Tt on OPT4 and it wouldn't even work at all! I tested OPT4 on some other fans, and no joy. I guess some of the fan controllers are messed up!

USlatin, I'm on the lookout for some of that tape. I think I know what you're talking about... it would be nice to not totally waste that HSF.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anubis_offline*


Hello,
Dear oc friends, just mount a second spirit II on the Sb I came across different in rmp.
Nb TT was running 3300 rpm while the Sb was running at 5414 rpm.
Nb TT was connected to Chass_fan and the Sb to Opt_fan4.
When I put the TT Nb on the Opt_2 the TTâ€™s ran on same rpm.
Before I change anything I have scanned the bios all fanâ€™s at 100% cycle duty.
Little strange, but I know I have very strange P5N32-E think itâ€™s a Dutch thingâ€¦.it donâ€™t like Dutch power wore it doesnâ€™t like my!
Mebie is good idea to check it out what your TT spirit II is donning when you are not looking







!


I noticed that as well. The reason is that some of the fan headers run at 7v and others run at 12v (hence the differentiation in fan speeds). I had to move the connector wires to headers that provided full 12v. Its not documented in the manual unfortunately.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


Thanks. Tried to clock my E4300 yesterday but couldn't go higher than 3,71 Ghz.

I didn't use the setings shown on the first page - thats nice. I'll try thous later.
But what are DDRII controller Ref (A/B) voltages. I could OC better when I set thouse to 2+-0mv (or something like that)
I am sure, there is an answer in this thread but 282 pages....It's toooo much.










It has gotten a bit out of hand. 3.71 is still pretty solid for an E4300 given its initial clock speeds.

I wouldn't change the variances on the DDRII ref voltages much if at all. They relate to the way voltage is modulated before hitting the ram (not the same as the ram voltage). Too much variance will lead to instability or ultimately frying the ram outright (if its too far outside the vreg standards for that particular ram).


----------



## EAT

Robilar have you made any mods to your stacker 830?


----------



## jtsin67

Hi,
Recently found this forum and thanks to all who have contributed. Finally cracked the 3K mark with my Q6600, pushing stable at 3150 or so on air and with PC5300 RAM. Quite a difficult sod to get working!
Cheers,
John


----------



## Bullitt4u

I posted in the main forum and someone suggested I post here.

I had my CPU clocked to 3.25 at 1.45 v-core and was really compfortable with it. Everything ran great, good temps in orthos. V-droop in orthos was about .04 volts. Well I decided to up the clock a bit and launched my usual monitoring software. N-view, PC probe core temp and I was shocked that the voltages were over 4 volts as you can see in my screen shot. I rebooted to check the voltages in the bios and only v-core and the three psu voltages were displayed. Before this all voltages were displayed. I reset to default and I got the same results. Cleared CMOS reboted and all votages were there. After about 10 minutes at the desktop n-view and pc probe all the sudden showed these wacky voltages and again only v-core and the psu voltages were displayed in bios. Re-flashed the bios to 1201 which is what I started with. None of my voltages are set that high in the bios in fact some are set to auto.

Although the screen shot is taken after I reset the bios to default it is the exact same before I reset to default.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EAT*


Robilar have you made any mods to your stacker 830?


Not really. I took out the CM cage and put in two thermaltake Icages. They have nothing behind the fan (the stacker cage has a metal plate behind the fan with small holes in it) so better airflow. Also they are aluminum and match the interior better. Other than that it really doesn't need much.


----------



## Bullitt4u

Well I uninstalled pc probe and ntune and the problem of voltages not showing in the bios has gone away. Is it possible for one of these programs to change bios settings? I did not optimize system with ntune.

Got Everest and will use with speed fan from now on.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bullitt4u*


(SNIP!) Got Everest and will use with speed fan from now on.


That's what I was just about to suggest!

Last night after a couple martinis, I decided to shell out for Vista x64 (full version), so I decided to buy an extra 2GB of RAM and settled on 4x1 Crucial Ballistix Tracer. Going to hawk my Dominators on eBay (not enough rep to sell them here). Anybody want them? I'll throw in free FedEx to anywhere in the contiguous US.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bullitt4u*


Well I uninstalled pc probe and ntune and the problem of voltages not showing in the bios has gone away. Is it possible for one of these programs to change bios settings? I did not optimize system with ntune.

Got Everest and will use with speed fan from now on.


No, neither program can directly effect the bios.


----------



## nuclearjock

Two days ago, I happened to be in a local Tiger Direct outlet and asked the clerk to see a couple of his oem Q6600's to see if there were any G0's lurking around. To my surprise they were all G0"s !!!









Now mind you I'm very happy with my E6850, and I don't need 4 cores blah blah blah!!!
But for some unknown reason, I took out my plastic and brought this little guy home.

To make a long very frustrating story short, this post is not about the Q6600 but about the exhalted Striker "Extreme". Curious?? Read on.

I swapped out the cpu's and had the Q6600 @3.6 in not time, orthos stable, temps ~54C load 30C idle @1.40 vcore, then I went for 3.7, no post, reset bios, loaded saved parms with the clrtc jumper in the clr position (apparently a no no) and I think I nuked the bios chip. Bottom line, board no post no how no way, a gonner
















Here's the bad news, I went to Fry's to pick up a new one and they were out of stock, no more coming in (discontinued I think).

Went to Tiger, 75 boards pulled from stock, being shipped to vendor, not available for sale. You would have been amused seeing a grown man wimpering like a kid to the store manager whom I know very well and has stepped over the line in more than one instance to make me happy, not this time!!!

***!!!

But they had Striker "Extremes", lots of them. In spite of numerous horror stories, knowing that the boards are very similar AND against my better judgement, I bought one ($349.00 + tax).

Naturally, my expectations were high, and swapping out motherboards is not high no my list of favorite things to do, but I made the swap.

THIS BOARD SUCKS BIG TIME!!!

Now mind you, I do have "some" experience when it comes to oc'ing.

I tried everything, old BIOS, NEW BIOS, in between BIOS, everybody's favorite BIOS (1303), I could'nt get past 2.8 ghz no way no how..

Fortunately, I was able to find a 32-E on line and from my tracking number it's off the plane and on it's way to my house right now.

What I'm saying is that it appears these boards may become hard to get very soon. Now I know X38 is coming, SLI maybe, I've used hacked drivers on an old P5WDH deluxe (975 chipset, dual 7900's) don't really want to go that route again. As a matter of fact I don't know of any hacked Forceware for the 8800 series period.

In summary, the the Stroker Extreme I have sucks. It's going back to Tiger tonight.

I may order a second 32-E to have as a backup since they appear to be vanishing before our eyes.

Now the EVGA A1/T1 revision 680i boards were tempting, but I'm an Asus/Intel fan boy. Be that as it may the Stroker is $$$$$ and the one I have is a piece of excrement.

Can you tell I'm pissed???

I'm looking forward to playing with my new quadie though, so I'm gonna rip this thing out and go sit by the door and wait for the nice DHL person.

And btw, I'm gonna keep the fancy republic of gamers key chain that came with the Stroker for my trouble regarding this issue..


----------



## Litlratt

Expect 3.375 max.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Yeah. My next board is going to be an eVGA one because of my experience with this board (and with this thread).

What are you going to do with your E6850? I'll lift it off you for cheap!


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Yeah. My next board is going to be an eVGA one because of my experience with this board (and with this thread).

What are you going to do with your E6850? I'll lift it off you for cheap!



By looking at your sig, cheap doesn't really appear to be in your vocabulary.

No, my E6850 is sweet, and it's going to my daughter when 45nm is in the shelf. But thanks any way.


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Expect 3.375 max.


Hey rat,

A guy on EX&%(&e Systems found a "sweet spot" with 1305, at 3.6 (450 x 8). Damned if I can duplicate that!!!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuclearjock*


Hey rat,

A guy on EX&%(&e Systems found a "sweet spot" with 1305, at 3.6 (450 x 8). Damned if I can duplicate that!!!


I'll try and report back.
Won't be getting my hopes up though.
Good find.

1305 what?


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuclearjock*


Hey rat,

A guy on EX&%(&e Systems found a "sweet spot" with 1305, at 3.6 (450 x 8). Damned if I can duplicate that!!!


1305 is 2.93GHz but if he hit 3.6 with 450 (1800) then he did... did he?
if so there is hope... is there? I mean... was it stable? and HOW stable?

either way... I am going EVGA like this week... I think if I don't my desk will crack in half from all the karate chops/punches from the crashes during editing...

LET's START A NICE BIG FAT THREAD, and let's make it HUUUUUGE!!!
you know, like 1/10th the size of this thread


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


1305 is 2.93GHz but if he hit 3.6 with 450 (1800) then he did... did he?
if so there is hope... is there? I mean... was it stable? and HOW stable?

either way... I am going EVGA like this week... I think if I don't my desk will crack in half from all the karate chops/punches from the crashes during editing...

LET's START A NICE BIG FAT THREAD, and let's make it HUUUUUGE!!!
you know, like 1/10th the size of this thread










Hold on USRatin, it looks like the X38 might be SLI.
http://www.overclock.net/hardware-ne...ml#post2746712


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


1305 is 2.93GHz but if he hit 3.6 with 450 (1800) then he did... did he?
if so there is hope... is there? I mean... was it stable? and HOW stable?

either way... I am going EVGA like this week... I think if I don't my desk will crack in half from all the karate chops/punches from the crashes during editing...

LET's START A NICE BIG FAT THREAD, and let's make it HUUUUUGE!!!
you know, like 1/10th the size of this thread










1305 is the bios rev. Sorry.


----------



## USlatin

woooot.... wait, when?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuclearjock* 
1305 is the bios rev. Sorry.

ohhh... really???????
WHERE IS THAT BIOSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!?


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
woooot.... wait, when?

ohhh... really???????
WHERE IS THAT BIOSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!?

Dude, I'm really screwing you up, I'm sorry....

1305 is a Stroker Extreme bios revision.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuclearjock* 
Dude, I'm really screwing you up, I'm sorry....

1305 is a Stroker Extreme bios revision.

Yes, and according to the link he had trouble with it as I am with our 1205.
1203 is much more clocking friendly.
Oh well, back to 1203 again.


----------



## Litlratt

Awesomeness...........I'm in, or over, or whatever.










Haven't had a chance to play yet but I'm at least into Windows.
Couldn't do this with 1205.





































Larger pic in gallery.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hey, all... hope I don't get banned for this, but check this out:

I just bought Vista Ultimate 64 (so I can happily use 4GB RAM), and that leaves me with a leftover perfectly legal OEM Ultimate x86 that is bound to this mobo (as I understand the Vista OEM licensing to work), and I would hate to let it go to waste.

Here's my proposition (and I think it is generous):

If any of you will use it (I mean, really use it... not let it collect dust in that closet of dead computer components we all have), I will send it out & you pay me whatever you think it's worth it. You don't pay me until you receive it & make sure it works. If it works, cover my shipping & whatever else you think you can spare & we call it even. If it doesn't work, you send it back (at your cost).

If you're interested, PM me... hope I'm not too out of line with this, but I don't know anyone else with a P5N32-E that doesn't already have Vista (and I can't post in for sale... to little rep).


----------



## Treatment X

lol, I like the OEM licensing to work line. Subtle for the uninformed, but glaring for the enthusiasts.

So how's the 1205 Bios handling? I still have the P5N32 debating if I should slap a E6750 or just let it go for sale and get some money back for a quad-unfriendly piece of toejam. Yes, I enjoy Madlibs.

I'm really into the film industry, unfortunately I was tricked into the medical path. Might I ask which software are you using USLatin?


----------



## USlatin

^ Vegas 7 BUT Vegas 8 just came out which is faster and offers color correction at the highest level available professionally ANYWHERE and lot of other tantalizing goodies such as DVD Architect being included and it having Blue Ray supported.

About the BIOS ans such.. I am getting lost here...

LITTLErATT!!! DUDE.... I mean DUUUUDE!
Is that with 1203?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Treatment X*


lol, I like the OEM licensing to work line. Subtle for the uninformed, but glaring for the enthusiasts. (SNIP!)


No, seriously, I thought OEM Vista was bound to the mother board. Isn't it? So, it won't work on any other computer than mine? How does it know? Explain, please... I guess I'm one of the "uninformed".


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
^ Vegas 7 BUT Vegas 8 just came out which is faster and offers color correction at the highest level available professionally ANYWHERE and lot of other tantalizing goodies such as DVD Architect being included and it having Blue Ray supported.

About the BIOS ans such.. I am getting lost here...

LITTLErATT!!! DUDE.... I mean DUUUUDE!
Is that with 1203?

Yes, I had serious issues with 1205.


----------



## Litlratt

17,718 3DMarks in 06 with VISTA and Nvidias latest beta drivers.
Encouraging.


----------



## Video_Master

Well I finally got my Tunic Tower T120 and two of the Thermaltake Spirit II's one for north bridge and one for the south bridge and I used Arctic Silver for all 3 things.

I got it mounted and then did a fresh load of Vista Ultimate 64bit and got all the updates done and the 4GB memory fix done and then got shipped out to Virginia for work for the week so my system yet again sits at home waiting for me to get back and work on it and now try to overclock it and get my memory running at the speed it is supposed to instead of the slower speed that it says right now.


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Awesomeness...........I'm in, or over, or whatever.


Back at ya Mr. Rat....

Pulled the Stroker Extreme, and replaced it with a fresh 32-E..


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


17,718 3DMarks in 06 with VISTA and Nvidias latest beta drivers.
Encouraging.


What drivers litlratt?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


What drivers litlratt?


163.69, only because of Bioshock. Haven't tried XP yet. I would expect somewhere between 800 and 1000 point difference with the 165.01s

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuclearjock*


Back at ya Mr. Rat....

Pulled the Stroker Extreme, and replaced it with a fresh 32-E..






































Congrats







Are you stable yet? 1.38 on Vcore, what is it set at in BIOS?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


17,718 3DMarks in 06 with VISTA and Nvidias latest beta drivers.
Encouraging.


I scored an extra 529 points just by moving from 162.22 to 163.69. Bioshock is my only plan for the weekend.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


I scored an extra 529 points just by moving from 162.22 to 163.69. Bioshock is my only plan for the weekend.


Great game.
What fsb and multi are you using?


----------



## Video_Master

Litlratt - What are all your settings in the bios for voltages and such. Now that I have my better cooling I am looking to overclock my system.

This is on your E6850 system that is.

Thanks


----------



## USlatin

GOSH guys now there is TWO of you?!?!?!?!?!?

BUT.... actually make that a BUT... both of you are on WATER!

hummmm... this weekend i get to play! I will try to jump to the 450FSB mark... right you guys are doing 450*8? weird... but hey... you never know...

so if that doesn't work then I'll spend my weekend reading through the threads about X38 and what not that's coming out and make my decision... all I know is that things can't stay this way with 3.3 as stable as the Gaza strip


----------



## USlatin

I take that back sorta, the Ratt is doing 1.4!!!! OMGZ!!!! 1.4!!! That's what I am pumping NOW! Man! 
My weekend might be a great one if I am lucky!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Video_Master*


Litlratt - What are all your settings in the bios for voltages and such. Now that I have my better cooling I am looking to overclock my system.

This is on your E6850 system that is.

Thanks


My 6850 required about .1 volt more on the vcore than just about all the others that I had seen. With a 6850, follow Robilar's suggestions on page 1 and adjust the vcore accordingly.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I take that back sorta, the Ratt is doing 1.4!!!! OMGZ!!!! 1.4!!! That's what I am pumping NOW! Man! 
My weekend might be a great one if I am lucky!


Not quite stable yet as Prime failed at about an hour. However, I played Bioshock for 2 hours without issue.
The other voltages that are reported are comparably high to what is set in the BIOS. I'll tweak them and see how it goes. The highest temps I seen in that test was 55 I think.


----------



## nuclearjock

Vcore = 1.43v


----------



## Litlratt

Good job Nuc








I'm gonna stick with 1.4 for a little while as I think it's really close. If I can't get it stable, I'll up it.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Great game.
What fsb and multi are you using?


I scaled it back from 3.55 to 3.51 last night. 13x270. I can't get past 300 with the multi 12 or over without outrageous Vcores. The QX6700 is B3 stepped & I'm in the tropics (26 ambient with AC).


----------



## USlatin

Are you still running that Nuclear?

pls say yes.... pls say yes... pls say you are on the 12th hs, pls say you are stable...


----------



## Litlratt

Back at ya Nuc.
Once again, encouraging.










Larger pic in sig.


----------



## USlatin

Wow Ratt! That is sweet... now if you guys can stabilize those things for more than an hour and change we might all just keep our MoBos till X38 is nice and cheap ... well I woud

are you letting it run Ratt?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Wow Ratt! That is sweet... now if you guys can stabilize those things for more than an hour and change we might all just keep our MoBos till X38 is nice and cheap ... well I woud

are you letting it run Ratt?

2 hours 10 minutes


----------



## Litlratt

Still going after 3 hours USRatin.
Shutting it down to get ready to put it all in one of these tomorrow

http://www.xoxide.com/lian-li-pc-343b-case.html










Also, that is small fft's, so you shouldn't expect those temps.

18,739 in XP32 with 163.67's
http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=3096545

USRatin, I'll let it eat on a blend test while I'm sleeping and report at around 9 tonight EST.


----------



## Treatment X

wait this is gettin dangerous lol I might have to buy another chip.

So what's going on, you're able to get 3.6ghz 3 hours prime stable on water, with BIOS 1205?

I might just keep this sucka if that is the case. Can you take a picture of your setup? Are you cooling the NB?


----------



## kkbob33

first off let me say that this thread is one of the best ive seen on how to overclock. I dont think i have ever seen as much support as robilar has put into this thread!









in the first post it is recommended that the NB be set at 1.4 and the sb at 1.55.

_now i have a question:_
*can u get the voltage on the NB up to 1.4 and the SB up to 1.55 without overheating using the stock copper heatsinks?*
room temperature is 68F


----------



## DonNiger

Need some help. 
I am having some issues OC'ing E4300ES, CPU posts @3.9 Ghz, goes through the post screen but just before the win screen, stops. It does not hang, I can see a white dot flashing but thats all. Also, the IDE light is off. Seams like, my RAID is not linking in.
No problems with temps.

EDIT: And what is the best BIOS for OC. I used 1303 so far.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kkbob33*


first off let me say that this thread is one of the best ive seen on how to overclock. I dont think i have ever seen as much support as robilar has put into this thread!









in the first post it is recommended that the NB be set at 1.4 and the sb at 1.55.

_now i have a question: _
*can u get the voltage on the NB up to 1.4 and the SB up to 1.55 without overheating using the stock copper heatsinks?*
room temperature is 68F


Well thanks but there have been a lot of contributing members as well. One of the things I like best about OCN









Those voltages are fine if the cpu stays at stock or even mild overclocks. If you push it too far you won't be stable without more voltage to the northbridge (sb doesn't heat up as much regardless). so you will end up being forced to up volts and thus temps requiring active cooling. Its a limitation of the 680i chipset.


----------



## kkbob33

thanks for the reply robilar.

right now im running an e6300 on a limited msi board with modified chipset heatsinks(really ghetto rigged)and want to get it around 3 ghz so i figured i would go with a new board. it would cut my costs down if i could use stock cooling on asus board ......

_*im not going to sli but your guide makes tackiling a new bios so easy so im torn between this 680i and the ABIT AB9 QuadGT *_

*the link for the abit is here:*

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...2E16813127019R

what do u guys think?


----------



## Robilar

The asus P5N32-E can get over 500 FSB on air with most chips. The Abit board is decent but I would only recommend it over the Asus if you are planning on going with a quad core processor. The asus can more than hold its own against any board out there with a dual core chip. Also the bios is one of the easiest I've ever used for overclocking as well as things like being able to unlink the ram and cpu Overclock from each other and the ability to run RAM stably at 1T (makes a huge difference in benches over 2T)


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Treatment X* 
wait this is gettin dangerous lol I might have to buy another chip.

So what's going on, you're able to get 3.6ghz 3 hours prime stable on water, with BIOS 1205?

I might just keep this sucka if that is the case. Can you take a picture of your setup? Are you cooling the NB?

X, Ratt is running 1203, it is still the best but a hole has been found past the wall! Look in his gallery he's got three pages of pics of his crazy double wota loop but if he is pullint this with 1.4V then it "might" be attainable with air...?? then again what we need to be concerned with is not the Vcore so much, especially after they are proving it is not achieved with Vcore. However if their NB's are on water running at 1.55V then we might have a problem... if their cooler setups are what's making 1.4 all they need that's ok... we can still go up a touch to say 1.45 or as high as you are comfortable with so long as the temps are still good.... but 1.55V on the NB is about as high as you want to go really, and that is already almost too hot for the best air cooling...

Ratt! WTG man!! I will keep my fingers and toes crossed that this thing goes through blend testing! However I still need to figure out WTH is going on with my rig as I became unstable at the other side of the wall.
But you never know... maybe the hole is a more peaceful place to be for my NB... I will try to talk to it and have him convinced of that by the weekend.


----------



## Litlratt

No love. Hard lock when I woke up.
I still think it's very encouraging as I got 3+ hours with small fft's.
Will tweak some more and keep you informed.


----------



## USlatin

cool man, thanks... I really wasn't expecting much more than something to play with... I bet that as soon as you tried blending BAM it would say no more...


----------



## kkbob33

could someone plz post the temerature differences between the different NB cooling solutions (ie: stock, thermalight and thermalright)? i would be very appreciative!


----------



## USlatin

I would love to know that but I don't think anyone has owned all of them and also probed them. Keep in mind that the NB temps displayed by all software are not your NB temps but a measuring point between the NB and RAM.

Don't forget to consider the Noctua and the Spirit though!


----------



## Robilar

I agree USlatin. I think all active northbridge solutions will be miles better than the passive stock. I've personally used the thermaltake spirits and seen an 18C drop under load with a digital thermometer over the passive cooling. Thats a big difference.


----------



## Treatment X

oh *nod nod*, sorry if it sounded like I was saying to not to actively NB cool. I meant to ask what NB cooling he was using.

definitely keep us updated LilR. good stuff =)


----------



## kkbob33

thanks guys that helps.

from what u are saying it sounds like ill probably need active cooling on the _abit quad GT _board also.

one of my buddies is getting this board ill definately have to give him the link for this thread


----------



## DonNiger

I ask once again - what is the best BIOS?


----------



## Robilar

So far 1205 has been completely stable. I've pushed my cpu up to just over 3.9 Ghz stable at 1.55 vcore primed and orthos without a hiccup.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I was thinking of upgrading my RAM to 4x1GB on this board (can't find 2x2GB in PC2 8500 flavors). Anyone have anything to suggest about that?


----------



## DonNiger

So, I should downgrade from v1305?

I managed to OC my C356 3,[email protected],40 (still 1305 bios) but it wasn't easy at all. And thouse setting on the first page didn't work at all.
I had to set 1.2 [email protected] 1.60, lower the VTT to 1.35v. NB&SB are both 1.65. Core is having 1.68v and its burning. Need dice for that one.


----------



## USlatin

1203 for Quads, so probable 1203 over-all


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


So, I should downgrade from v1305?

I managed to OC my C356 3,[email protected],40 (still 1305 bios) but it wasn't easy at all. And thouse setting on the first page didn't work at all.
I had to set 1.2 [email protected] 1.60, lower the VTT to 1.35v. NB&SB are both 1.65. Core is having 1.68v and its burning. Need dice for that one.


The P5N-E is not the topic of this thread so I personally can't speculate on which bios is better (although I have built a couple of systems with the board).


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


The P5N-E is not the topic of this thread so I personally can't speculate on which bios is better (although I have built a couple of systems with the board).


I am talking about Striker Extreme.


----------



## Robilar

Again, a completely different bios than that of this guide, the P5N32-E. The bios share similarities in overclocking but are not interchangeable. For instance, there is no 1305 release for the P5N32-E. Its hard for a bunch of P5N332-E owners to speculate on a different motherboard bios unless they have also owned one (I did for awhile but back about 7 months so I can't help you on current bios releases).


----------



## DonNiger

OK, thanks.
I just asked few pages back: are striker owner also here and I was answered a positive replay.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Finally gone quad core! SLACR FTW, to be honest.










While I'm here, does anyone have any good recommendations on some cheapish DDR2 I could use? At the moment I'm after moving up to 4GB and am considering selling my current 2x1GB XMS2C5 PC6400 DIMMs before purchaseing two sets of 2x1GB XMS2C4 PC6400 to replace them with.


----------



## Robilar

The OCZ Spec Ops stuff is decent and pretty cheap (Also there seem to be a bunch of rebates floating around for it).


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


Finally gone quad core! SLACR FTW, to be honest.










Wooooooot!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


While I'm here, ...


From the following text in your post I don't think it might be but.... did you mean that you might be switching MoBo's hence leaving this thread?


----------



## ss_blake

I am trying to OC e6600 / P5N32-E SLI for he first time. I am having problems with BSOD with memory errors running orthos. I followed Robilards guide..

I think I am not setting the memory timings correctly.

Should I use the UNLINKED setting for FSB-MEMORY speeds? If so, can I leave memory speed at 800Mhz (for my Kingston HyperX PC6400, 4/4/4/12 2.0V DDR2) while I increase the FSB (ex. to 1200 mhz)? If not, what ratio should i use? Using 3:2 or 5:4 usually sets the memory speed >800mhz which causes crashes..?


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
From the following text in your post I don't think it might be but.... did you mean that you might be switching MoBo's hence leaving this thread?

Nah, at least not until there's a better SLi capable clocking board available. I'm hopeful about the X38 chipsets as there's rumours that some of them may have nForce MCP's on them.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ss_blake* 
Should I use the UNLINKED setting for FSB-MEMORY speeds? If so, can I leave memory speed at 800Mhz (for my Kingston HyperX PC6400, 4/4/4/12 2.0V DDR2) while I increase the FSB (ex. to 1200 mhz)?

Yes, run your RAM unlinked and manually set it to 800Mhz. In unlinked mode your RAM won't go above what you've set it to while you raise FSB.


----------



## EAT

ok guys seriously frustrated with my striker and as I cant seem to find a dedicated thread for strikers I keep coming back to this awesome thead. I've got 1333fsb 10x stable for 3hrs or so consistently on small ftt on p95. Feel like Im so close but nothing seems to be doing anything but crashing sooner. currently voltages are (vcore=1.41, 1.2ht=1.25, nb=1.35, sb=1.5, vtt=1.35.) temps are fine on cores (doesnt exceed 58c at load for 15min) ram backed off to 800 on auto volts. runs blend for 8hrs.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Just quickly posting back to say that I couldn't pass POST with my Q6600 G0 at 1333FSB when useing 1.4vCore. All my other vCores (NorthBridge, SouthBridge 1.2 HT) were set the same as when I was useing my E6600. With this in mind, I'm going to max out all my vCores, to the settings I used for 3.75Ghz on the E6600 and then try lowering them. Kind of like working backwards innit.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EAT*


ok guys seriously frustrated with my striker and as I cant seem to find a dedicated thread for strikers I keep coming back to this awesome thead. I've got 1333fsb 10x stable for 3hrs or so consistently on small ftt on p95. Feel like Im so close but nothing seems to be doing anything but crashing sooner. currently voltages are (vcore=1.41, 1.2ht=1.25, nb=1.35, sb=1.5, vtt=1.35.) temps are fine on cores (doesnt exceed 58c at load for 15min) ram backed off to 800 on auto volts. runs blend for 8hrs.


I had to rise HT to 1.6 to OC.


----------



## t4ct1c47

As we all know, the G0's don't need as much vCore as there older B3 cousins to operate, though will obviously still require more vCore than my previous E6600 B2 down to there being twice as many cores.

Anyway, with this in mind I have tried everything, but can't even get past POST with the following settings;

FSB: 1333
Multiplier: x9
RAM: Unlinked (800Mhz) 5-5-5-12 2T
CPU vCore: 1.6v (1.55v actual)
1.2 HT: 1.4v
NorthBridge: 1.6v (1.55v actual)
SouthBridge: 1.55v
CPU VTT: 1.55v (1.68v actual)

Spread spectrums, CPU features and unused onboard devices all disabled as normal. PCI-Express bus's all locked as normal.

The computer boots fine and brings up the POST screen, but then seems to freeze before it displays my HDD's and optical drives. I can't even enter the BIOS unless I reset the CMOS back to stock. Thank god for the overclocking profiles feature in the BIOS is all I can say.

Now there's no way in hell that the CPU isn't getting enough vCore, the RAM is operateing at stock frequencies, so doesn't need more voltage. All I can think of is that there is some sort of issue with the 1205 BIOS for the P5N32-E SLi that I'm useing. Has anyone else here had issues clocking their Quads with this BIOS?

Useful help shall be duely rewarded as always.


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
As we all know, the G0's don't need as much vCore as there older B3 cousins to operate, though will obviously still require more vCore than my previous E6600 B2 down to there being twice as many cores.

Anyway, with this in mind I have tried everything, but can't even get past POST with the following settings;

FSB: 1333
Multiplier: x9
RAM: Unlinked (800Mhz) 5-5-5-12 2T
CPU vCore: 1.6v (1.55v actual)
1.2 HT: 1.4v
NorthBridge: 1.6v (1.55v actual)
SouthBridge: 1.55v
CPU VTT: 1.55v (1.68v actual)

Spread spectrums, CPU features and unused onboard devices all disabled as normal. PCI-Express bus's all locked as normal.

The computer boots fine and brings up the POST screen, but then seems to freeze before it displays my HDD's and optical drives. I can't even enter the BIOS unless I reset the CMOS back to stock. Thank god for the overclocking profiles feature in the BIOS is all I can say.

Now there's no way in hell that the CPU isn't getting enough vCore, the RAM is operateing at stock frequencies, so doesn't need more voltage. All I can think of is that there is some sort of issue with the 1205 BIOS for the P5N32-E SLi that I'm useing. Has anyone else here had issues clocking their Quads with this BIOS?

Useful help shall be duely rewarded as always.

Your CPU VTT is too high, i have found with Quads on this board that they like a lower CPU VTT, try 1.35v and you should be fine.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*


Your CPU VTT is too high, i have found with Quads on this board that they like a lower CPU VTT, try 1.35v and you should be fine.


Lowering VTT didn't help, if you could PM me you're settings for 3.0Ghz I'd really appreciate it.









I've since tried 1300FSB, which allowed me to pass POST, but wouldn't boot into Windows. I then lowered the FSB further to 1250 and am now running along fine at 2.81Ghz. I'm going to try various FSB's between 1250 and 1300 sometime tonight, until I find my maximum stable FSB. Either way, it's starting to look like a new motherboard could be in order.


----------



## Bob Anglais

I had the exact same problem with 1205, I reverted back to 1103 and could then hit 3.00 Ghz (9x333) but nothing more.


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


I had to rise HT to 1.6 to OC.


Thanks for that. What are the rest of your voltages at? Also I have been noticing a heat increase by adding more HT volts is that what you saw too?

On a unrelated note. My bios hasnt been remembering my saved oc profiles. Also for a little while there I couldnt enter bios it would hang for a sec at the bios splash screen and then head onto windows (where it was stable?? and yes the delete key works fine). Anybody have any ideas? I suspect the cmos battery but a little confirmation never hurts.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


(SNIP!)
Yes, run your RAM unlinked and manually set it to 800Mhz. In unlinked mode your RAM won't go above what you've set it to while you raise FSB.










I've had some different experience with this. Even when unlinked, I set memory to 800, but the actual speed (displayed in gray, below) wants to "snap" to a ratio (the closest possible ratio) no matter what, so I will only get 800 if it is an exact ratio to FSB. Therefore, I keep an eye on the gray speed to make certain I'm getting a minimum of 800, but not so far over I get unstable memory. You can see in my CPU-Z link that my RAM is actually running at 864, not 800.


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


Lowering VTT didn't help, if you could PM me you're settings for 3.0Ghz I'd really appreciate it.









I've since tried 1300FSB, which allowed me to pass POST, but wouldn't boot into Windows. I then lowered the FSB further to 1250 and am now running along fine at 2.81Ghz. I'm going to try various FSB's between 1250 and 1300 sometime tonight, until I find my maximum stable FSB. Either way, it's starting to look like a new motherboard could be in order.


Ive found 8x works better than 9x..

Bios: 1203










8x @1800 fsb (3.6 ghz) orthos stable ~2hrs @~1.43 Vcore.

I still like my E6850 much much much much better...

Much better oc, much lower temps


----------



## t4ct1c47

Thanks nuclearjock, I'll start faffing about on the x8 multiplier sometime tonight to see if I get any better results.

Rep +1









To be honest, I always thought that this board didn't like high FSB's with Quads.


----------



## Robilar

It doesn't. The highest I've seen to date (other than Nuclearjock above) is about 380.


----------



## USlatin

Yea... it all falls within a very small margin which is interesting... 350 to 380 is where all of those who find their limits end up.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EAT* 
Thanks for that. What are the rest of your voltages at? Also I have been noticing a heat increase by adding more HT volts is that what you saw too?.

Let me think
1.2 HT I told already, NB and SB 1.55v, VTT 1.35-1.45.
Core 1.83









Little trick to cool it down a little bit: I removed the sticker from the SB. Use a plastic knife or something like that. And placed an al. passive cooler on top of it. Cann't do it, if useing SLI. I also placed thouse external temp sensors inside of NB/SB (next to the heatpipes). After adding the cooler, SB temp (actually SB cooler temp) dropped 5c and SB 7c.


----------



## nuclearjock




----------



## USlatin

what is that Nuclear? that's not on our board is it? is that some photoshop joke? did you run a blend at all? Ohhhhh nevermind..... the glitch it is still _only _3.6GHz.... lol

super nice voltages, but how long have you ran that? only the 1hs +? I mean is it really stable or not?


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


Let me think
1.2 HT I told already, NB and SB 1.55v, VTT 1.35-1.45. 
Core 1.83









Little trick to cool it down a little bit: I removed the sticker from the SB. Use a plastic knife or something like that. And placed an al. passive cooler on top of it. Cann't do it, if useing SLI. I also placed thouse external temp sensors inside of NB/SB (next to the heatpipes). After adding the cooler, SB temp (actually SB cooler temp) dropped 5c and SB 7c.


I did sorta the same thing. I took off the massive striker heat pipe and lapped it. Then I cleaned of the ceramique goo off of both chips (they didnt even get it on top of the chips!!!) with isopropyl. I then peeled off those felt squares around the chips and put the extra thermal sensors underneath and then stuck the felt down over them so that the sensor was a hair away from the chips. Remounted heatpipe with AS5 and used slightly stronger springs on the hold down clips and got about an 8c drop all around. Too bad with the 120 extreme tower I put on theres no room for a fan to sit on the hsfins anymore. Doesnt 1.55v on the nb put a ton of strain on it for a 24/7 oc? How long have you been running it this way?


----------



## Silver Surfer

Flicking through this it looks like you guys have hot mosfets... just found this in the deals section if it helps.

Looks fairly tank for a mosfet cooler aye.


----------



## DonNiger

with 1.83 for vcore - its not for 24/7 setting. But 1.55 SB is not too. I have a good airflow, actually I do not have a case at all. MB is just sitting on the table.
But with 1,58 for cpu (C [email protected] 5 Ghz) it has been running for two weeks.


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


with 1.83 for vcore - its not for 24/7 setting. But 1.55 SB is not too. I have a good airflow, actually I do not have a case at all. MB is just sitting on the table.
But with 1,58 for cpu (C [email protected] 5 Ghz) it has been running for two weeks.


What do you run your nbvolts at 24/7 and what about mem bus speed?


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


what is that Nuclear? that's not on our board is it? is that some photoshop joke? did you run a blend at all? Ohhhhh nevermind..... the glitch it is still _only _3.6GHz.... lol

super nice voltages, but how long have you ran that? only the 1hs +? I mean is it really stable or not?


Yep it's on our board. Blend passes for ~1.5 hrs which is good enough for me and my flight simulator..

But I don't like the Q6600 nearly as much as the E6850 for max oc, temps, voltages, etc..

I know with your video stuff, you can utilize four cores. But if you really want speed, low temps, nice voltages, wait for yorkfield, (11/12). It'll porbably be ~ $1k at release but ***, in your line of business you should be able to wrtie it off, right??


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EAT*


What do you run your nbvolts at 24/7 and what about mem bus speed?



Like I said before - 1,55v. For some reasons it just does not boot with lower volts.
And I haven't figured out yet, why doesn't that MB like high mem speed







With P5N-E there was no problem to OC mem up to 1280 Mhz. But with striker, I can only manage 1060 Mhz. 
for 24/7, it's running 1:1 to FSB, 800 Mhz.


----------



## USlatin

Nuclear, I can pay lower taxes but that doens't mean i don't have to pay for it... $300 is already enough for me for a CPU, and it is all I'll need till York gets super cheap... all I need now is speakers a second video card and a MoBo for my Q66G0... the rest is software...


----------



## EAT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
Like I said before - 1,55v. For some reasons it just does not boot with lower volts.
And I haven't figured out yet, why doesn't that MB like high mem speed







With P5N-E there was no problem to OC mem up to 1280 Mhz. But with striker, I can only manage 1060 Mhz.
for 24/7, it's running 1:1 to FSB, 800 Mhz.

I was shooting for 5:8 fsb/mem = 1333/1066 but no luck so It looks like I will be at about 5:7 about 934mhz mem bus. I was told that you could cause serious damage to the nb at over 1.5v. My current fsb 1333 is using nb @ 1.35v and vcore 1.39v actual (bios setting 1.4125v)


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Sorry to break in on your conversation about the Q6600, but I had some fun with 4x1GB during lunch break on this board. Last night, my Crucial Ballistix (8500) finally arrived. To my surprise, 4x1 wasn't nearly as apocalyptic on this board as the naysayers had predicted (or probably correctly predicted pre-1103).

I start with:
810MHz 5-5-5-15-2T 2.2v - This works fine.

Then I get this inkling that I want to find a way to run 1T (I could with my Dominators, but that's only 2x1GB).

I try:
810MHz 4-4-4-12-1T 2.3v - No POST, so I figure to scale back the speed all the way to a 1:1...

540MHz 4-4-4-12-1T 2.25v - POST and my Vista score goes up to 5.8 from 5.7 (no time to benchmark... come on; it's my lunch break). So, I get excited and curious. I know I can't get 1T with over 800, so I start OCing the speed...

I try:
1080MHz 4-4-4-12-2T 2.2v - No POST
1080MHz 5-5-5-15-2T 2.2v - POST, but BSOD loading Windows
1080MHz 5-5-5-15-2T 2.3v - POST, but BSOD loading Windows
1080MHz 5-5-5-15-2T 2.35v - POST, but BSOD loading Windows

So, right now I'm back to 810MHz 4-4-4-12-2T 2.25v. This also gives me 5.8 score.

The moral of the story is 4x1GB is finicky in Vista, sure... but I can certainly live with 2T at 810. BTW, What's going on with the Windows score? 540 1T = 810 2T? Does the command rate matter THAT much, or does it just have a weird way of scoring? I don't intend to do performance benchmarks until after I install x64 this weekend, so I guess I might end up answering that one on my own.


----------



## USlatin

Actually I think the moral might be that a Q makes OCing 4 sticks finicky... I had to scale back a ton when I went Q from my E6300... then finally sold off two GBs since I was not getting stable at all with 4... this does seem to fit with your luncheon findings...

heheh OCing on lunch break, gotta love it! hehehe


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

What if I told you I found a sweet spot? I think, after a number of BSODs and no-POSTs, I found a "zone" where 4x1 works really well (at least so far)...

At 272 FSB with RAM at 816, I'm rock solid. Something tells me this has something to do with the 3:2 because I got excellent results with 1200/900 with a 11 multi. I was never able to get to 300 FSB above 3.5 with the 2x1 Dominators, so my (very temporary) conclusion is I'm very, very happy with 4x1 at 3:2 with 272x13.

No real benching yet except for 3dm and Windows Experience Score, but I set a new 3dm record with 13x:


----------



## USlatin

I'd say great! I mean with a QX you really diserve more than 3.3 but it is still ridiculously low... I hope it runs stable though! 3.5+ is a nice OC!


----------



## Liyana

hey guys...I'm sure most of you guys used to own a 965P motherboard...did the transition to the P5N32-E SLi Plus give any difficulties ?

worried the HDD won't boot into windows due to chipset conflict ( had that before )


----------



## mhsbrian

I am also wondering if the P5N32-E Sli plus is a better quad clocker than the P5N32-3 Sli (non-Plus).

Anyone tried or attempted to over clock a quad on these boards ?


----------



## Robilar

All of the 650i and 680i boards (although technically the Asus P5N32-E SLI Plus is actually a hybrid of new NB MCP and old NF4 SB MCP) are poor overclockers with quads with the exception of the new revision release of the EVGA board. They are great with dual cores though.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liyana*


hey guys...I'm sure most of you guys used to own a 965P motherboard...did the transition to the P5N32-E SLi Plus give any difficulties ?

worried the HDD won't boot into windows due to chipset conflict ( had that before )


Tell me more about that HDD chipset conflict - I think I have something like that with my Striker. If overclocked, it seems like HDD does not work.


----------



## USlatin

A problem booting up from a single HDD you build with a different MoBo? That sounds weird to say the least. But you should never expect your RAIDs to work when you switch.


----------



## DonNiger

OK, I missunderstood you. Switching mobo is something else.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

4x1GB + 680i + Vista + 8hrs Stable under torture = 885MHz RAM and 295x12 for a 2:3.

I am beginning to think 680i & 4x1 needs simple ratios, not crazy 11:16 and the like. For more benches, look at the bottom of this thread: http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?s...ic=45109&st=20

And here's the current:


----------



## bravogt

Received my Q6600 G0 on Monday... Followed Nuclearjock's settings in BIOS.. 3.6Ghz stable after 1hr of Prime95 V25.4, Tourture test - Small FFt. There's still hope for P5N32-E-SLI.....


----------



## stargate125645

This was probably already posted, but does anyone know if this would work for the southbridge with an X-Fi XtremeGamer Professional?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/55...?tl=g40c16s500


----------



## USlatin

it looks like it should... it if is the same height as an Evercool VGA cooler then yes

EDIT: just checked and the Evercool is 10mm.... that one is 11.6mm though... however I too a look and you might have a small modding to do... that's if you are ok with SHAVING OFF some of your X-Fi lol!!!

anyhow... why not just get the Evercool man? It is half the price: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835119080


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
it looks like it should... it if is the same height as an Evercool VGA cooler then yes

EDIT: just checked and the Evercool is 10mm.... that one is 11.6mm though... however I too a look and you might have a small modding to do... that's if you are ok with SHAVING OFF some of your X-Fi lol!!!

anyhow... why not just get the Evercool man? It is half the price: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835119080

It also looks like it has half the cooling ability.

Don't you have to modify the Evercool to make it fit anyway? Is there less than 1.6mm clearance between an X-Fi and the Evercool?


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stargate125645* 
It also looks like it has half the cooling ability.

Don't you have to modify the Evercool to make it fit anyway? Is there less than 1.6mm clearance between an X-Fi and the Evercool?

You mean the Evercool had 1/2 the cooling ability? not at all unless you put a fan on the other one... but then there is no hope for it to fit. The Evercool is overkill for the SB, so if that's what you meant (don't think u did) then no worries, buy one with confidence.

It is an easy mod... a few of the fins will be in the way of the white PCI slot's lock arm thing... just use pliers to bend it a bit and then simply push the suckers down... press them hard enough and they'll fit below the little arm...


----------



## Liyana

not weird at all....EG , A P35 downgrading to 965P = HDD won't boot

upgrading to a P35 from 965P has no issues......etc etc etc

thats why I'm worried....


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hi. The Enzotech DOES NOT FIT! Don't buy it. If you don't believe me, I'll send you mine free.

I've had bad luck with SB HSF. The only thing I can fit under there is the NB HS! That would fit beneath an X-Fi.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
You mean the Evercool had 1/2 the cooling ability? not at all unless you put a fan on the other one... but then there is no hope for it to fit. The Evercool is overkill for the SB, so if that's what you meant (don't think u did) then no worries, buy one with confidence.

It is an easy mod... a few of the fins will be in the way of the white PCI slot's lock arm thing... just use pliers to bend it a bit and then simply push the suckers down... press them hard enough and they'll fit below the little arm...

Well I shall consider it. I'm not making any purchases quite yet but it would be nice to have a plan.

Is there any northbridge cooler that would work with SLI and my XTC Memory cooler?


----------



## trueg50

Hello.

Stargate, are you sure the Evercool doesn't fit?

USlatin, I was looking at your setup, it looks very nice.

How does this look for a cooling replacement for my board (because I think I have to RMA it due to heat issues, then give the new one new cooling stuff)

I have a tuniq I was going to arrange the same way you have it.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stargate125645* 
Well I shall consider it. I'm not making any purchases quite yet but it would be nice to have a plan.

Is there any northbridge cooler that would work with SLI and my XTC Memory cooler?

I don't think the XTC will limit you on your choice at all. Robilar has one, he can tell you.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trueg50* 
Hello.

Stargate, are you sure the Evercool doesn't fit?

USlatin, I was looking at your setup, it looks very nice.

How does this look for a cooling replacement for my board (because I think I have to RMA it due to heat issues, then give the new one new cooling stuff)

I have a tuniq I was going to arrange the same way you have it.

So I guess the fan fits on your NB cooler right? If so then that would be a killer setup.

Just one thought:
Make sure your mosfet HS don't fall off like mine did.... maybe just to be sure order the double sided thermal tape in advance. Don't worry it is free! Call 3M and they will send you samples of *Part. No. 021200-64711*. Then if they do fall you already have the replacement tape which will work easily if you take the existing tape off with a razor. Be careful not to cut yourself it gets a tad tricky holding those little tiny things.


----------



## trueg50

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
So I guess the fan fits on your NB cooler right? If so then that would be a killer setup.

Just one thought:
Make sure your mosfet HS don't fall off like mine did.... maybe just to be sure order the double sided thermal tape in advance. Don't worry it is free! Call 3M and they will send you samples of *Part. No. 021200-64711*. Then if they do fall you already have the replacement tape which will work easily if you take the existing tape off with a razor. Be careful not to cut yourself it gets a tad tricky holding those little tiny things.

Thanks for the advice!

The Enzotech heatsinks come with the 3M tape, so I should be all set, however I do have some heatsinks that keep falling off my old graphics card that the 3M tape you suggested would be great for.

I think I will go with another fan, not sure though, 46 db seems a bit high. The only other one however is 11 CFM vs 60 of the other one.

Looks like I may be RMA'ing my board, so I guess I will have to wait before I can attempt to cool it all.


----------



## USlatin

I found 17CMF 60mm 25 decibels fans I am sure you'll find higher CMFs at ok noise levels.
Glad to be of service!


----------



## Liyana

well any ideas guys ?

anyone here who switched from 965P to this wonderful board ?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liyana*


hey guys...I'm sure most of you guys used to own a 965P motherboard...did the transition to the P5N32-E SLi Plus give any difficulties ?

worried the HDD won't boot into windows due to chipset conflict ( had that before )


I would suggest that you'll have issues as you are going from Intel to Nvidia. Mainly one chipset to another. I don't even try it any more as the times that I was able to get into Windows the rig continually BSODed and wasn't responsive.


----------



## Mmmm~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liyana* 
well any ideas guys ?

anyone here who switched from 965P to this wonderful board ?

tried intel -> nvidia. no luck lol. what southbridge are you planning on moving from? thats what matters not the north bridge cause its the SB that controls the raid and stuffs. intel ich7r -> this board, didnt work for me.

here this link might help you
http://http://www.tomshardware.com/2...ion_adventure/

oh and sorry! hello evryone, 1st post ftw. Great thread you guys got here. Thanks to evryone who has posted so far, i learned from your experiences and am applying them to my new rig







! Avoided alot of probs and stuffs! so thanks ^^!


----------



## Liyana

I don't have raid....

lol


----------



## EAT

I need some confidence guys. I know that sounds odd from an overclocker. I tried updating the 1102 bios to 1303 on the striker via the flash tool in bios and bam corrupted. I've since got a new chip from asus and it had 1305 on it (real POS) so I still want to flash to 1303 but now Im terrified that I'll be down for weeks as I have no cash flow at the moment. Just need a little pep talk I think.


----------



## Litlratt

Just make sure you load set up defaults first and do it through the BIOS. You'll be fine, grasshopper.


----------



## slytown

Just so I'm getting this straight. After matching up to Image #1 and Image #2 (100 and auto,) setting my ram to 5:4 for my DDR2 800, setting my voltages to 1.3HT, 1.4NB, 1.5SB, and 1.55VTT, to do my overclocking on the 680i I should gradually change my multi with my FSB set at 500?


----------



## EAT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slytown* 
Just so I'm getting this straight. After matching up to Image #1 and Image #2 (100 and auto,) setting my ram to 5:4 for my DDR2 800, setting my voltages to 1.3HT, 1.4NB, 1.5SB, and 1.55VTT, to do my overclocking on the 680i I should gradually change my multi with my FSB set at 500?

Sounds good so far except I take it your are aiming for a 2000mhz fsb? If so I found that its great to have a goal but if you get locked into it you might get really frustrated. For example with the new striker bios I cant hit even 1333. Which ended up in some things gettin smashed


----------



## EAT

Anybody else have bad bios flashing experiences, before I take the chance and possibly loose my line of communication for a while?? If so other than getting a new chip what did you do?

P.s. Ive thought about hot flashing my old chip but asus wants it back.


----------



## slytown

I'm not really sure. Probably just 1333 for my first oc on this board. I don't want to max out yet. Also I'll probably use 4-4-4-4: 8 and 1T on my RAM.


----------



## Mmmm~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liyana* 
I don't have raid....

lol

you can always do the windows repair installation thing?


----------



## EAT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slytown* 
I'm not really sure. Probably just 1333 for my first oc on this board. I don't want to max out yet. Also I'll probably use 4-4-4-4: 8 and 1T on my RAM.

Not to insult your intelligence but have you oc'd before?


----------



## EAT

Also I've been doing some testing of late and it seems mem bus speed has a much greater impact on bench tests at least vs. the 1clock timings. example is 3dm06 showed at 5:8 ratio fsb/mem (putting me just under 14000 with a single gtx). The tighter timings at 3:4 ratio were about 13400.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EAT*


Anybody else have bad bios flashing experiences, before I take the chance and possibly loose my line of communication for a while?? If so other than getting a new chip what did you do?


I had one *minor issue* with EZFlash after flashing to the 1101 BIOS. Although this wasn't a full-on bad flash and I managed to reflash it correctly with AWDflash.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


I'm not really sure. Probably just 1333 for my first oc on this board. I don't want to max out yet. Also I'll probably use 4-4-4-4: 8 and 1T on my RAM.


1333FSB is the default FSB for the E6750 in your sig system.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EAT*


Also I've been doing some testing of late and it seems mem bus speed has a much greater impact on bench tests at least vs. the 1clock timings. example is 3dm06 showed at 5:8 ratio fsb/mem (putting me just under 14000 with a single gtx). The tighter timings at 3:4 ratio were about 13400.


I noticed this aswell *after making some runs of SuperPi*, Higher RAM speed Vs tighter RAM timeings.


----------



## USlatin

anyone getting a Yorkie?

EDIT: no wait.... our board throws up and pees on itself with new releases


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


anyone getting a Yorkie?


QX6950 Yorkfield has my name on it.


----------



## USlatin

I don't know when to upgrade, but I know I will.

I want to buy in cheap and I want to get guaranteed 1080p color corrected previews real-time... I wonder if the 4.0 on air Yorkies might pull that off?


----------



## slytown

I thought the E6750 was 800FSB. My bad.

And no, I haven't oced before. And yes, you hurt my feelings EAT.


----------



## Litlratt

Hey USRatin:

Had to take a break from playing with the 8X multiplier as I sold my case and one of my Waterkegs. Just got the rig up and running and am currently at 6+ hours on blend at 450 X 8. Ram at 4 4 4 6 1T @ 900 X 4Gb.


----------



## Litlratt

10+ hours










Larger pic in gallery


----------



## USlatin

Woooooooooooooooooooooooooot!

dude!!!
reppage plussage!
now the question is how much of a factor does your (one keg) wota setup play on the NB's stability...

SETTINGS PLEASE!
I'ma gonna' try some o' dis!

I'll check back in a few hopefully you can post your settings by then!


----------



## USlatin

no luck...

I tried 1.425 Vcore and I got to the Windows logo with 1800, 1802 but it never got in... I lowered my RAM to 800 and it barely seemed to help if at all.

So I figured I'd wait for the Big Mouse to post his settings


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


I thought the E6750 was 800FSB. My bad.

And no, I haven't oced before. And yes, you hurt my feelings EAT.


Not to worry man not my intention. Well you're on the right thread cuz its got a right fine guide on the first page. Thought I'd try to give you a hand but I dont want anybody upset over it. Only advice I'll drop is do your homework, lots and lots of homework. I've been working on this striker for close to 3 months now and just hit my first goal of 1333 x10. I was gaming about 3 hrs a day till I got this board and last night I sat down and played my first full hour since I got this board (probably cuz I'm never satisfied with the mediocrate I've attained)....Here is my first goal attained and despite the mediocrate I am still rather proud.

1333 x10 on a tuniq tower
1.36vcore (1.31 @ load)
1.90v mem @939mhz (really want 1040 for 5:8 ratio)
1.25 (1.2ht)
1.25 nb
1.50 sb
1.35 cpu vtt
All at 52c at load (after 4hrs on small ftts (p95)
idles at 27c which is 9c lower than ambient case temp
This will be my 24/7 oc as it is well under intel and asus specs.

Now just have to figure out why with the new bios went like butter to 1333 and now walled up like china. Yeah so easy than bam, like the board went thats all I'm gonna give you.......


----------



## menko2

hey guys, i need a emergency help.

i just update from 1201 to 1205 via asus flash and all seem to be correct.

when the computer restart and load the bios, all went good again and my settings from the last overclock (the one i always use) were there, but for some reason, everytime the pc restart, i got the pc without the overclocking. but in the menu of the bios, all my seting of overclo were there.

the problem comes when i take out the little ion-littium battery from the motherboard. i tried to erase the settings and start from 0 to see if that helped.

after i took out the battery, no bios or anything loads. when i conect the pc it shows in screen that the dvi port detected, but just after that it change to "no input comming".

i tried to clear cmos via jumpers, but nothing changed. there are 2 jumpers very close in the clear cmos area. it is the one on the top of this 2.
any help to fix this???

thank you in advance.


----------



## USlatin

wow... let's see... check list:

1. video card in all the way? <---
2. battery in all the way?
3. cmos jumper back on correct position?
4. CMOS chip in all the way?

hope it is one of these dumb ones...


----------



## menko2

thank you Uslatin;

yep, all this are already checked.

i have the problem since i took-out and put-in the ion-litium battery.

the jumper thing i did it after to see if it helped, no results.

i even took out, graphic card, memories,.... but i know it wouldnt be that provably.

i wonder if the battery is dead, but it was working before i put it out.

more ideas?


----------



## USlatin

to ensure it is charged leave the computer off with the PSU on for a few hours... the green MoBo light should be on and the battery would be charging if needed...


----------



## menko2

i already tried that. i left it for a few hours and the led is green all the time.... but no bios boot.

im just trying to totally erase the cmos for a forum i read;

i will take out the battery and leave the jumper in clear cmos for some hours. then put again battery and ...... lets see.

i wonder how i got this for just taking out the battery for a moment...


----------



## USlatin

I did hear from (I think) two different users, that they had to do that once and it solved their problem...

:fingers crossed:

hey did you guys notice anything different about my avatar?
hint:


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Woooooooooooooooooooooooooot!

dude!!!
reppage plussage!
now the question is how much of a factor does your (one keg) wota setup play on the NB's stability...

SETTINGS PLEASE!
I'ma gonna' try some o' dis!

I'll check back in a few hopefully you can post your settings by then!

19 hours still going.
You can get the actuals from the screenie i posted.
I can shut it down and get what is set in the BIOS if you want. I think the actual is more important and Everest is dead nutz with the monitor in the BIOS.


----------



## USlatin

What?!?!?! You $^@!#@*#@!%@*&%#@&%^%!*@&%#@!!!!!!!

N1

you damm rodent!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *menko2* 
i already tried that. i left it for a few hours and the led is green all the time.... but no bios boot.

im just trying to totally erase the cmos for a forum i read;

i will take out the battery and leave the jumper in clear cmos for some hours. then put again battery and ...... lets see.

i wonder how i got this for just taking out the battery for a moment...

You can fool this BIOS into thinking that there was a failed POST by hitting the reset switch before it has a chance to POST.
This has worked for me on a number of occasions when I would normally have had to clear the CMOS.


----------



## USlatin

DO NOT! I REPEAT DO NOT SHUT DOWN!
Let that beast go!

Wow!!!
You'll tell me soon enough... well I want to know your BIOS values... I had no luck so I will look at those first and see if I notice anything different. I agree, Everest tells you the actuals and that's what I need to match... but I haven't OCed in a while and I don't remember where I put Everest. Also I gotta get into Windows first... anyhow... keep that monster churning away till it gives up! Dude if you run 24 I'll have to snipe you with a hax


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
DO NOT! I REPEAT DO NOT SHUT DOWN!
Let that beast go!

Wow!!!
You'll tell me soon enough... well I want to know your BIOS values... I had no luck so I will look at those first and see if I notice anything different. I agree, Everest tells you the actuals and that's what I need to match... but I haven't OCed in a while and I don't remember where I put Everest. Also I gotta get into Windows first... anyhow... keep that monster churning away till it gives up! Dude if you run 24 I'll have to snipe you with a hax

I'll let it go and see if it hits 24. However, those stress test programs are only an indicator to me, they do not guarantee stability. If my comp is error free in the things that I do in Windows, then it's stable.
I've seen settings that wouldn't stress for an hour, run error free in Windows.
Regarding the NB. Sure, having it under water has to be an advantage when oc'ing. The only way I would know if that is what's allowing this clock would be to remove the water block and replace it with my ES II. Guessing, I'd say that a good aftermarket active cooler on it should be fine as I only increased the BIOS setting from 1.4 to 1.5, if I remember correctly. Everest reports 1.54 to 1.55.
Robilar would probably know more as he's the guru on this board.


----------



## USlatin

ya ya.... we know... but hitting 24 gives you a gold badge and 1000 points which almost certainly guarantees you hit a new unlock!

Please leave the BIOS settings here for me to find in the AM... or no cheese for you! (no cheese, get it?)









you didn't say anything about my


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
ya ya.... we know... but hitting 24 gives you a gold badge and 1000 points which almost certainly guarantees you hit a new unlock!

Please leave the BIOS settings here for me to find in the AM... or no cheese for you! (no cheese, get it?)









you didn't say anything about my









I noticed it.........you're even uglier!!


----------



## USlatin

oh... just what I was hoping you'd say










looks almost as good as yours: HAHAHAH!!!


----------



## menko2

i fanlly have it working!!!!







))

i just took out one og the memory modules and......

now i have the 1205;

is it good this bios???

should i use sisandra or everest software to start the oc again??

thanks!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *menko2* 
i fanlly have it working!!!!







))

i just took out one og the memory modules and......

now i have the 1205;

is it good this bios???

should i use sisandra or everest software to start the oc again??

thanks!

The 1205 seems to be hit or miss. I had issues with it, others haven't.
I'm confused by your question about using Sandra or Everest.
I'm assuming you now have 1 memory module installed. When you had 2 were they in slots 1 and 3?

BTW.....22 hours


----------



## Robilar

1205 has been very stable thus far with several chips I've tested. 1201 was excellent as well. 1203 was pulled from the asus site due to issues it caused with some razer usb devices.


----------



## menko2

i mean, to start benchmarks and stability test (memories, cpu,....). thats why i ask for sandra or everest to do that...

i used sandra before but i read some people use everest so im confused.

thanks for the quick replies!!!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*


i mean, to start benchmarks and stability test (memories, cpu,....). thats why i ask for sandra or everest to do that...

i used sandra before but i read some people use everest so im confused.

thanks for the quick replies!!!


For stability use Orthos, Prime or OCCT.


----------



## menko2

and bench apart of 3dmark???

sandra or everest??


----------



## Litlratt

If you now only have 1 stick of RAM installed, it is useless to bench.
Yes, those 3 are all good benchmarking programs.


----------



## hybrid4g

I just ran a one hour stress test of PRIME95 (Small FFTs) on my newly assembled rig (1.5 weeks old). Posted on the first try, and no errors during testing. This is my first computer build and overclock (BABY STEPS!







)

Important information:

Rig listed in signature
BIOS 1203
Disabled all the stuff posted in original post (ram unlinked, etc)
Overclocked to 3.0Ghz, (1333FSB Quad Pumped, 9x333)
V.Core: 1.35
1.2VHT Voltage: Auto
NB Core Voltage: Auto
SB Core Voltage: Auto
CPU VTT: 1.55

IDLE Core Temps Logged:
Ambient: ~25C
Core1: 36C 
Core2: 36C
Core3: 33C
Core4: 33C

MAX CoreTemps Logged:

Ambient: ~25C
Core1: 63C 
Core2: 63C
Core3: 59C
Core4: 59C

It stayed mostly around 62C for Cores 1&2, and 58C for Cores 3&4.

This rig. is primarily used for gaming and gaming. Any suggestions on how to reduce temps, change settings, or whatever would be appreciated.

I got a picture of everything...but I don't have a hosting site and it is a bmp that is too big to attach.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hybrid4g*


I just ran a one hour stress test of PRIME95 (Small FFTs) on my newly assembled rig (1.5 weeks old). Posted on the first try, and no errors during testing. This is my first computer build and overclock (BABY STEPS!







)

Important information:

Rig listed in signature
BIOS 1203
Disabled all the stuff posted in original post (ram unlinked, etc)
Overclocked to 3.0Ghz, (1333FSB Quad Pumped, 9x333)
V.Core: 1.35
1.2VHT Voltage: Auto
NB Core Voltage: Auto
SB Core Voltage: Auto
CPU VTT: 1.55

IDLE Core Temps Logged:
Ambient: ~25C
Core1: 36C 
Core2: 36C
Core3: 33C
Core4: 33C

MAX CoreTemps Logged:

Ambient: ~25C
Core1: 63C 
Core2: 63C
Core3: 59C
Core4: 59C

It stayed mostly around 62C for Cores 1&2, and 58C for Cores 3&4.

This rig. is primarily used for gaming and gaming. Any suggestions on how to reduce temps, change settings, or whatever would be appreciated.

I got a picture of everything...but I don't have a hosting site and it is a bmp that is too big to attach.


You've got another 8 or 9 degrees to work with on your oc.
Convert your bmp to jpg and upload into your gallery. Copy and paste the medium link into your post.
Go up 5 or 10 Mhz at a time in your qdr with the same vcore. You might want to manually set your "auto" voltages.


----------



## hybrid4g

Thanks for the information...but I am not sure what to safely set those other voltages at.


----------



## Litlratt

Go into user options and enable your gallery icon. The little icon to the left.
Use Everest to display your actuals and you will know what they are at in Windows. The hardware monitor in the BIOS will tell you what they are set at in the BIOS.


----------



## menko2

finally i have it all ready!!!

the BIOS when i clear the cmos, put some voltaje that one of the RAM modules didnt get. the other one worked with that. 
i thought one was damaged, but when i put 2.1v for RAM, both work great.

now i just did the OC again changing a few thing so i dont have anymore crashes and blue screens.

i left it like this:

CPU- 350x9= 3150mhz @1Â´45v (temps at full load on both cores are 45ÂºC)
RAM- 840mhz @ 4-4-4-12 1T @2Â´125v (better than 1066mhz 5-5-5-15 as Robilar said).
FSB is 350 with this voltajes (in order as the BIOS) 
1Â´30v
1Â´40v
1Â´50v
1Â´55v

questions:

1) i can provably squeeze a bit more the FBS right??? if i go for 375FBS, how much do i have to raise the voltajes of NB, SB,...???

2) my temps in Core Temp 0.95 are 45ÂºC on load. how much voltaje do i need for CPU for 3.375mhz (375x9)????

i know the number are not the same for the PC, but they will give me an idea.

with 3.375mhz OC i will be more than happy.

any help??


----------



## Litlratt

Sorry US, it locked at 23 hours and 20 minutes with 6 running programs and a browser with 5 tabs.
However, I will consider it a success if I am trouble free in Windows.

vcore 1.43125
mem 2.1
1.2vht 1.3
nb 1.5
sb 1.6
cpu vtt 1.55
These were the first attempt after tearing the rig apart and putting it in another case.










Larger pic in gallery.


----------



## USlatin

Menko, great to hear that!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Sorry US, it locked at 23 hours and 20 minutes with 6 running programs and a browser with 5 tabs.
However, I will consider it a success if I am trouble free in Windows.

vcore 1.43125
mem 2.1
1.2vht 1.3
nb 1.5
sb 1.6
cpu vtt 1.55
These were the first attempt after tearing the rig apart and putting it in another case.










Larger pic in gallery.


AHA! I did not get to that Vcore yet.... :fingers crossed:
Took note of those and will try right now..

Well with your computer running all kinds of stuff I guess the test was made less synthetic and the 24hs mark would have not been the 24hs mark we all talk about... regardless 23:20 is ZOMG *** 1337 FTW w00t! lol.... I am an uber idiot sometimes, I love it, lol!

I want to see that new setup man. Let me know when you got the pics in da gallery.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Menko, great to hear that!

AHA! I did not get to that Vcore yet.... :fingers crossed:
Took note of those and will try right now..

Well with your computer running all kinds of stuff I guess the test was made less synthetic and the 24hs mark would have not been the 24hs mark we all talk about... regardless 23:20 is ZOMG *** 1337 FTW w00t! lol.... I am an uber idiot sometimes, I love it, lol!

I want to see that new setup man. Let me know when you got the pics in da gallery.


I'm not positive that 1.43125 is necessary
8 hours Orthos


----------



## Liyana

hmmm it seems no driver conflicts so far....

btw what I've seen sifting through like 200 posts... ( this thread is crazy 3k posts )

but does anyone know if the PLUS version can use 1203 bios ? or anything from that matter ?

because Asus listed 805 as official for the plus and 1205 for the non-plus ....


----------



## USlatin

well. I am sad to say that the little added Vcore did nothing for me... setting my RAM to 5-5-5-15-2T 700 didn't help either...

I got as far as one bar on the logo... never even made it in


----------



## Liyana

Hmmm US....try increasing VTT to 1.55 and HT to 1.5v

NB @ 1.6v

SB 1.6v


----------



## Litlratt

17+ hours Orthos

http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho...0/ppuser/40366

@Liyana
The BIOSes are not interchangeable


----------



## off chops

Fark yeah. I got my q6600 to 3.74ghz stable. well in games and 3dmark and super Pi. i havnt tried any other tests yet. what do i have to run before you call it stable.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *off chops* 
Fark yeah. I got my q6600 to 3.74ghz stable. well in games and 3dmark and super Pi. i havnt tried any other tests yet. what do i have to run before you call it stable.

It sounds to me that you're getting that reading from your My Computer Properties. CPU-Z will tell you the CPU's real clock of 3.3Ghz if you lowered the multiplier to x8.


----------



## novastar

hi every one

I would like to overclock my Core 2 Duo E6420 it runs at 2.13Ghz, i would like to over clock it to at least 2.66GHz my be later on to 3Ghz. has any one overclocked this chip if so what setting did you use to get this speed as im still not sure what to do as i am one off those peaple who has to see it done
before i can do it. I have used the ai softwere to overclock my cpu but every one keep saying how bad that softwere is so i would like to overclock through the bios.

if any one can help i will be greatfull









thanks


----------



## off chops

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


It sounds to me that you're getting that reading from your My Computer Properties. CPU-Z will tell you the CPU's real clock of 3.3Ghz if you lowered the multiplier to x8.


nah man. 3.74 in the bios, in cpuz, in everest, in 3dmark


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hi, all. This weekend, I noticed the heat spreaders on my new Ballistix is loose on all four modules. It's making me really angry and now I want to RMA them.

Does anyone want to recommend some really good PC2-8500 that works well on this board? I was thinking of getting some Mushkins. Any other recommendations? I'll be running them in 4x1GB, so good heat dissipation is definitely a must. Thanks!


----------



## off chops

Quote:



Originally Posted by *novastar*


hi every one

I would like to overclock my Core 2 Duo E6420 it runs at 2.13Ghz, i would like to over clock it to at least 2.66GHz my be later on to 3Ghz. has any one overclocked this chip if so what setting did you use to get this speed as im still not sure what to do as i am one off those peaple who has to see it done
before i can do it. I have used the ai softwere to overclock my cpu but every one keep saying how bad that softwere is so i would like to overclock through the bios.

if any one can help i will be greatfull









thanks


yeah my other computer has an e6420 and i get that to 3.6ghz easy. you will get it to 3.2 on air cooling easy. depending on your other components. and case.


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


It sounds to me that you're getting that reading from your My Computer Properties. CPU-Z will tell you the CPU's real clock of 3.3Ghz if you lowered the multiplier to x8.


lol if i went by My Computer, my comp would be @ 4050mhz







i dont think Vista reads the multi correctly.

anyway he actually is running 3.74. how do i know..i was there. hes my mate. his CPU-Z is screwed though. hes got like 1.48vcore in it.

EDIT: lol not to mention he has a 9x multi


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *off chops*


nah man. 3.74 in the bios, in cpuz, in everest, in 3dmark


I didn't realize you were using the 9X multi.








I'm going to stick with the 8X for awhile and see how far I can go with it.
Orthos stable at 21+ hours and still going.


----------



## jbenfield

This motherboard is driving me nuts. I suspect that I'm missing something really obvious, but I can't figure out what it is.

In a nutshell, I can overclock the heck out of the board and it runs Prime, BOINC clients, etc. perfectly (see below for some excpetions), but the stress test seems to be 3DMark06. Once I fire that up, even moderate overclocks crash on me. Here's the situation. If anyone can offer any insight, I'd appreciate it.

CPU : Q6600 SLACR (Stock 2.4GHz - 9*267)
MB: P5N32-E SLI
Cards: EVGA 8600GTS, SB X-Fi
RAM: Supertalent PC6400 1GBx4 T8UX2GC5
(settings detailed below)

From 1066-1200Mhz QDR FSB (266.5-300Mhz), I can increment by 1MHz and it runs like a champ at every speed. No hiccups at all

At 1200-1466.7 (300-366.65), I can only use the following settings. Anything else either doesn't bring up the BIOS or locks up at the CPU speed display.
1280 (320x9 = 2.8GHz)- Completely stable until running 3DMark
1353.8 (338.45 x 9 = 3.04GHz) - Very unstable
1440 - (360 x 9 = 3.24GHz) Moderately stable. 
1466.6 - (366.65 x 9 = 3.3GHz) Completely stable until running 3DMark

**multiplier has no apparent affect on stability or ability to bring up the bios at other clocks in this range*** Tried 6-9 (board allows me to select 10+, but it never sticks since the chip is capped at 9)

At 1466.6 (366.65), I can start incrementing by 1MHz again. I've had it all the way up to 1680 (420 * 9 = 3.78Ghz) with decent stability until I run 3DMark or any other graphically intense program. I can beat the hell out of the board with any other kind of stress/benchmark tool and it rarely flinches. (except as noted). The sweet spot seems to be 3.3GHz. I haven't had a single hiccup at that speed until I kick in DirectX. I ran for 72 hours straight running 64Bit BOINC apps. I then fired up WoW and "blerf". Blue screen.

Dropping the LDT from 5x to 4x improves the stability in 3DMark and lets it run longer. Dropping it any lower makes it worse and causes Windows itself to crash. I can't see anything changing in NTune, SANDRA or PCProbe when I tweak this. So I'm assuming that it strictly a NB to SB setting that doesn't impact anything else.

Memory speed can be changed to anything. I've run all tests at 400, 667, 800, 900 and 950 and a number of oddball settings to try syncing the memory to the FSB. The memory isn't stable at 1GHz. But otherwise, there's not a huge difference at any of the speeds. (no more than ~10-15% performance difference. Probably because I'm letting the timings self adjust to more aggresive settings at lower clocks). There is no apparent impact to stability until I try to push the memory above 950Mhz. It doesn't require a voltage tweak until it gets above 900MHz.

BIOS Version 1205 (shipped with 902, but I couldn't run 4 sticks of RAM until I flashed to 1205. It would just lock up at the BIOS when I threw in the 4th stick)
Scythe Infinity with a single 120mm fan (29-60 degrees depending on the OC)

All Spread Spectrum disabled
HPET disabled
All PCI clocks - 100MHz
SPP <-> MCP - 200MHz
Enhanced C1 - Disabled
Speedstep - Disabled
Virtualization - Enabled (need it for Xen. Doesn't seem to make a difference to stability)
Execute Disable Bit - Enabled (again, doesn't seem to impact stability and both my Linux Kernel and Windows support it.)
RAID Enabled - (No impact to stability whether I run single drive or mirrored.)
VCore - 1.25 - 1.45 (no tweaks required up to 1280 [320x9=2.8GHz]. Oddly, required increase in the 1200-1466.7 (300-366.65) range, but then ran decently at stock voltages at 1466.6 (366.65). Only a minor tweak wa required to make it rock solid.
VTT - 1.55 (no apparent downside to running it high and it seems to have the highest impact on stability. Just pegged it here and left it.)
1.2V HT - 1.2 - 1.35 (Only apparent impact is to increase instability when set above 1.35. Left at 1.25 for most tests)
SB Core - 1.5 (no apparent impact to stability)
NB Core - 1.35 (Mild overclock. Possible stability improvement. Higher voltages increased instability)
Memory - 1.8-2.1 (Only req'd at 900MHz+. Performance gains were minimal, so left at 800MHz and 1.8v for most tests.)

Coretemp reports the CPUs running from 29-65 degrees (no apparent correlation between CPU temp and stability. Runs rock solid at 65 running Primes and then crashes at 41 at a lower clock when I fire up 3DMark)

So, my questions are
1) What's a likely cause of this "forbidden block" of frequencies at 300-366? Has anyone else experienced this? I've seen postings about other boards that talk about "blackouts" around 300-350Mhz, but I haven't seen any explanations or theories.
2) I suspect that there's some PCI-E timing issue causing my instability, but I have no clue how to fix it. Any suggestions? The card and PCI-E speeds aren't changing. So it's not the card itself. But there isn't a whole lot to tweak on the PCI side in the BIOS.
3) Should I be considering a BIOS downgrade? Is it possible or likely that this is a 1205-specific issue? What's the best OC BIOS for the P5N32-E SLI right now?
4) Any value to trying a different set of video drivers? I suspect that it's a long shot and I'd prefer not to put any additional unneccessary variables into the mix. But I'll defer to the experts.

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Litlratt

@jb
RAM memtested ?
Try 1.35 HT
1.6 SB
1.5 NB


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *off chops*


nah man. 3.74 in the bios, in cpuz, in everest, in 3dmark


Give everyone something to work with.
BIOS values and Windows actuals.


----------



## jbenfield

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


@jb
RAM memtested ?


Yup. Up the wazoo. 400,667,800, 900 & 950 with tight and loose timings. It's rock solid. (and the first thing that I suspected, since I kind of cheaped out on the RAM. But, it's been the most reliable piece of the puzzle.)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Try 1.35 HT
1.6 SB
1.5 NB


I'll give it a shot. I haven't had the NB that high since I was seeing flakiness over 1.35. I'll make the leap and see if anything smokes.

Thanks.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jbenfield*


Yup. Up the wazoo. 400,667,800, 900 & 950 with tight and loose timings. It's rock solid. (and the first thing that I suspected, since I kind of cheaped out on the RAM. But, it's been the most reliable piece of the puzzle.)

I'll give it a shot. I haven't had the NB that high since I was seeing flakiness over 1.35. I'll make the leap and see if anything smokes.

Thanks.


I should have mentioned that aftermarket active cooling on the NB is almost a requirement for higher overclocks.


----------



## novastar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *off chops*


yeah my other computer has an e6420 and i get that to 3.6ghz easy. you will get it to 3.2 on air cooling easy. depending on your other components. and case.


ok thanks new to this overclocking.

i mite have a go later if you have any tips for me please let me now

thanks


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *off chops* 
nah man. 3.74 in the bios, in cpuz, in everest, in 3dmark

Well played indeed, in that case.


----------



## jbenfield

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


I should have mentioned that aftermarket active cooling on the NB is almost a requirement for higher overclocks.


Whoops. That would certainly make a difference.








The board's been unbootable at anything above 1.4V. So that certainly makes sense.

I have good airflow across the cooling fins on the heatpipe. But there's no way that I'm going to be able to get any aftermarket goodies in there with the Scythe in place. <sigh> Guess it's WC or settle for stock









Stupid question, but is there any way of decoupling the NB clock from the FSB?


----------



## Treatment X

Haven't been here in a while, but the new developments made me curious. ANyone else able to reproduce the same results as Lilrat? I hope not.... otherwise I'll have to take my wallet out again for another g0 =| hehe


----------



## jbenfield

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jbenfield*


Whoops. That would certainly make a difference.








The board's been unbootable at anything above 1.4V. So that certainly makes sense.

I have good airflow across the cooling fins on the heatpipe. But there's no way that I'm going to be able to get any aftermarket goodies in there with the Scythe in place. <sigh> Guess it's WC or settle for stock









Stupid question, but is there any way of decoupling the NB clock from the FSB?


Geez....I've been at this too long. My brain is melting. Ignore the decoupling question (d'oh!)

However, as I thought about it, I realized that I'm not really overclocking the NB. 1333Mhz should be a stock speed (333.3 Mhz), but it seems to fall into some sort of FSB Blackhole for me. 1466.67 (366.67) is relatively stable and only a 10% overclock of the NB at best. I tried using smaller multipliers at 1600+ (400Mhz+) and didn't see a whole lot of difference in stability. So I think that the NB voltage and heat might be a red herring. Right now I have a 130mm fan blowing through a shaped piece of ducting across the NB. My MB temps dropped from 35 to 31 degrees, but otherwise no change in stability or behaviors.


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *novastar*


ok thanks new to this overclocking.

i mite have a go later if you have any tips for me please let me now

thanks


new ay. you'll be hooked in no time. haha.

basically for the E6420 on air, i havnt had mine in a while but if you put the CPU Vcore up to i think 1.375v you should get a 24/7 stable 3.2ghz with no worries, still running cool temps. you may not even have to bump the Vcore that high. you shouldnt have to even touch the other volts for now, except maybe the RAM. make sure ur RAM is running at least 1.8-1.9v to ensure maximum stability. other than that mate you're set. those E6420's are killer. get a decent aftermarket CPU cooler and you'll hit some awesome clocks.

good luck.


----------



## USlatin

Ok, I am starting to get pissed off...

Do I have a HORRIBLE NB cooler seating or f'ing what? Are my Mosfet sinks barely on? I mean ***reak!?!

3.72! I am depressed now... I will try to re-seat my NB when I switch PSUs see if that helps... also use the 3M tape on the mosfets... @^#^%&#[email protected]!!!!


----------



## jbenfield

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jbenfield* 
Geez....I've been at this too long. My brain is melting.

Son of a %^&!$. Litlrat got me thinking past the incessant tweaking and twiddling on autopilot and made me think again. I just *assumed* that ntune was wrong and the speeds in the BIOS and POST were right when I changed the multipliers. **WRONG**

It turns out that every time I took the multiplier down a notch to test the bus stability, I was actually upping the FSB.

1500 QDR set in the bios = 375 MHz
375 * 9 = 3.375GHz

Step down the multiplier to 6 and this is what the motherboard did
2.997 GHz / 6 = 562.5 * 4 = 2250 QDR
(Note: BIOS set to 1500 QDR, but FSB running at 2250!!!!)

I tried varying clock speeds and the behavior held true.

No wonder I couldn't keep the f%&*! up with air cooling.

In any case, once I realized that 1205 was lying to me and that my settings were more of a whim than a reality, I downgraded to 1201.

I'm now running at 3.4Ghz with only a minor tweak to VTT and I'm stable enough to be logged in and typing this message. My BIOS settings now match ntune as well. While the discrepencies don't explain why I couldn't keep the thing up at x9 multiplier, it does cast some doubt on how the system clocks are getting set. I also can't argue with the fact that nothing but the BIOS has changed and I've gone from an overclockers nightmare to the beginnings of a wetdream.

Anyone who's having problems clocking under 1205 should seriously consider a downgrade.

Litlrat, thanks for your comments. They got me thinking again when I had fallen into a rut.

in any case **STAY AWAY FROM BIOS 1205**

Certain combinations work, but there's something seriously "not right" in there.


----------



## Litlratt

I shut Orthos down after 24 hours stable.
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho...ze/big/cat/500
I might actually take the time to enjoy it for a couple of days prior to attempting to increase the oc.
@USRatin
The rest of my parts should be here tomorrow. I'll take a bunch of pix and update the thread in the case mod section.
@off chops
post your BIOS values as well as a screenie of the sensor in Everest under load. CPU=Z for cpu and mem.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jbenfield* 
Son of a %^&!$. Litlrat got me thinking past the incessant tweaking and twiddling on autopilot and made me think again. I just *assumed* that ntune was wrong and the speeds in the BIOS and POST were right when I changed the multipliers. **WRONG**

It turns out that every time I took the multiplier down a notch to test the bus stability, I was actually upping the FSB.

1500 QDR set in the bios = 375 MHz
375 * 9 = 3.375GHz

Step down the multiplier to 6 and this is what the motherboard did
2.997 GHz / 6 = 562.5 * 4 = 2250 QDR
(Note: BIOS set to 1500 QDR, but FSB running at 2250!!!!)

I tried varying clock speeds and the behavior held true.

No wonder I couldn't keep the f%&*! up with air cooling.

In any case, once I realized that 1205 was lying to me and that my settings were more of a whim than a reality, I downgraded to 1201.

I'm now running at 3.4Ghz with only a minor tweak to VTT and I'm stable enough to be logged in and typing this message. My BIOS settings now match ntune as well. While the discrepencies don't explain why I couldn't keep the thing up at x9 multiplier, it does cast some doubt on how the system clocks are getting set. I also can't argue with the fact that nothing but the BIOS has changed and I've gone from an overclockers nightmare to the beginnings of a wetdream.

Anyone who's having problems clocking under 1205 should seriously consider a downgrade.

Litlrat, thanks for your comments. They got me thinking again when I had fallen into a rut.

in any case **STAY AWAY FROM BIOS 1205**

Certain combinations work, but there's something seriously "not right" in there.

Congrats jb, good job








The 1205 was reported to have only changed some usb issues from 1203. I call BS, as I tried it on 2 different occasions, and had issues clocking with it both times.


----------



## hybrid4g

Second time around:

Mobo/Processor
Core-V: 1.30
1.2V HT-V: 1.3
NB-V: 1.4
SB-V: 1.5
CPU VTT: 1.55

3000/9=333 BUS

Ram:
Mem-V: 2.0
CL4-4-4-12-1T
(that is manuf. suggested settings)

667/2=333 BUS

Prime95: Stable at SmallFFTs/Blend for 3 hours each, Core Temps average during the stress was 54-58C (23-25C Ambient).

Question#1) Is 1:1 the most optimal divider ratio for the system in my sig?

Question #2) Also, since my ram is DDR800, isn't this slightly under-clocking the BUS speeds? Is it faster than keeping the divider at other ratio's or running a higher ram BUS speed in general (assuming I want to keep running the 333 BUS on the processor)?

I tried a few other jumps to different speeds but I could not get it to post. Maybe I should try increasing in smaller amounts. I really want to run a FSB of 400-450ish to make more use of my ram speeds.

Question #3) Does a FSB of 400-450ish mean an upgrade to NB/SB cooling for this motherboard (with a multiple of 9).

Question #4) For the P5N32-E, is it ONLY Everest Ultimate 3.80 BETA that works correctly (not a newer version? I see 4.0 on google links)?

Question #5) Besides running Prime95 for stability testing (and MEMTEST...I'm going to download and try that later) AND Core Temps. for monitoring, is there anything else that should be looked at before/after stress testing (like other temperatures on the MOBO, or anything that I am missing for a stability check)?

I think that is all for now. I will post pictures of stuff when I get Everest Ultimate.


----------



## Liyana

well my Plus version is at 805.....ya guys think older versions would be better ?

this board seriously does not meet the cut , reviewed other boards and never seen a board this hot and hard to OC.

when I've got temps down to a acceptable level , the limitating factor should be the bios.

PCIE locked 100 100 100 / 200 SPP etc

vcore 1.45 ( the chip can do 545 fsb 1.4v E6550 )

voltage for ram would be 2.3 ( it does 1100 mhz 5-4-4-5 2.1v )

NB voltage tested 1.2-1.7

SB tested 1.5-1.7

1.2HT - 1.5HT

Naturally , HPET / C1E / Speedstep / VT / XD bit / etc all disabled

Now the question bugs me , it definitely isn't temps nor voltage...

the only thing I can think of is the terrible bios atm....

pardon me if I left out any values guys









1600 fsb tried but very unstable ( rams were at 800 ) 1:1 ratio unlinked ( linked WON'T POST AT ALL no matter what I set )

anything above 1600 fsb ( couldn't be bothered with this crap board to try out between 1600-1700 ) won't post

1700 and 1800 tried.

I must say even though I lapped my HR-05 / ZT Nirvana / sb heatsinks the board proved a real heat monster to run at passive , active cooling is a definite must unless you live in a really cold place.

o well , at least my CPU can do 1.0125v at 333X7 = 2.33 ( stock that is ) no diff from ambient temps and load is +3 degrees

o well , sucks that Asus and all the other hw manufacturers only care about money , never the consumers...

apparently they left off my mobo at a really crap bios revision and chose instead to focus on new mobos instead of the older ones ( not saying thats a bad thing but at least leave with a decent bios ? instead of totally forgetting about the mobo and just providing some vista drivers which most people don't need ? )

Man....

can't help feeling that P35 / X38 would be a much better choice....at least the boards I reviewed were much better ( FSB wise and heat wise )


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
@USRatin
The rest of my parts should be here tomorrow. I'll take a bunch of pix and update the thread in the case mod section.

link us Ratt!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
link us Ratt!

http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...n-li-cube.html


----------



## Liyana

okie I managed to get it to do 1600 fsb 800 mhz stable.....if I set it to 4:5 ratio with the rams at 1000 it immediately crashes after 5 minutes...also seems like this board doesn't like to go above 1600....


----------



## Litlratt

Currently testing at 3.66.
Nothing more than additional vcore.
10+ hours prime blend stable.
Will try Orthos now.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I think I'm going with 1:1, low-latency... Some observations with 4x1GB:

FSB RAM RAM TIMINGS RTO Read/Write/Copy/Latency

272 272 544 3-3-3-6-1T 1:1 7887/5742/5037/60.2
272 544 1088 5-5-5-15-2T 2:1 7519/5720/5778/57.8
295 443 885 4-4-4-12-2T 3:2 8415/5212/5690/58.5
295 472 944 4-4-4-12-2T 8:5 8426/5319/5843/58.5
295 295 590 3-3-3-9-1T 1:1 8593/5377/5644/55.8
320 320 640 3-3-3-9-1T 1:1 9075/5832/6054/55.4


----------



## off chops

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
I shut Orthos down after 24 hours stable.
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho...ze/big/cat/500

@off chops
post your BIOS values as well as a screenie of the sensor in Everest under load. CPU=Z for cpu and mem.

FSB - 415hmz
cpu volt - 1.5
NB volt - 1.5
SB volt - 1.6
HT volt - 1.35
MEM volt - 2.150
MEM Timings 4 4 4 6 1T
there ya go Lilrat. is that enough info?


----------



## Liyana

hmm seems like I got no help here regarding oc







..

o well....

..so I decided to do it by myself....









For those who don't know , the NF 6 series chipsets are blazing hot even at stock.

HR-05 Lapped , MCP Lapped , ZT Nirvana lapped.

SPP cooled with Yateloon DS12H-12

MCP with a generic HS on top of the stock one

AS MX-2 used.

Let the pictures do the talking ?

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/8831/zomghx5.jpg

http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/6594/zomg2hc9.jpg

PS : what NB coolers do you guys use ?


----------



## EAT

Ok gurus' I am fresh outa ideas hopin some of you guys could help me out. I am finalizing what I'm calling (I'm not voiding my warranty so suck on that intel OC). Running a fsb of 1333mhz at 1.2972 vcore (actual)
1.25 (1.2ht)
1.25 nb
1.50 sb
1.35 cpu vtt
1.90v mem
fsb stable 16hrs (p95 small ftt's 16hrs)
And here is where I'm totally stumped. Ive got the mem running at 945mhz at 5,5,5,15,30,2t And I'm trying to get the mem up to anything above that (1066 would be my goal if I set one). Totally stable at 24 hrs P95 blend with web browsing also. But 1mhz higher and no boot (dram error on post). I have tried all mem volts setting from 1.9v to 2.35v as well as nb volts from 1.25v to 1.45v. I have also tried adding some sb (i know this should have no bearing and it didnt). I have tried combos of this for days now. Basically I used the combination lock method (set mem to a number, add nb, add nb, then new mem volt, and go thru the spectrum of nb again and so on. HELP thanks for reading guys..... also I have had the fsb up to 1430 at 1.41v (3dmark06 loop stable but cant even dream of p95)Thanks again.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *off chops* 
FSB - 415hmz
cpu volt - 1.5
NB volt - 1.5
SB volt - 1.6
HT volt - 1.35
MEM volt - 2.150
MEM Timings 4 4 4 6 1T
there ya go Lilrat. is that enough info?

Yes. That gives others an idea of what to work with. BTW, that's the highest oc I've seen with the 9X and our board.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liyana* 
hmm seems like I got no help here regarding oc







..

I'm not familiar with your board and/or chipset so I didn't think it appropriate to suggest anything. However, looking at your screenie, the ht value of 1.71 is really high in comparison to what is necessary on our boards.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EAT* 
Ok gurus' I am fresh outa ideas hopin some of you guys could help me out. I am finalizing what I'm calling (I'm not voiding my warranty so suck on that intel OC). Running a fsb of 1333mhz at 1.2972 vcore (actual)
1.25 (1.2ht)
1.25 nb
1.50 sb
1.35 cpu vtt
1.90v mem
fsb stable 16hrs (p95 small ftt's 16hrs)
And here is where I'm totally stumped. Ive got the mem running at 945mhz at 5,5,5,15,30,2t And I'm trying to get the mem up to anything above that (1066 would be my goal if I set one). Totally stable at 24 hrs P95 blend with web browsing also. But 1mhz higher and no boot (dram error on post). I have tried all mem volts setting from 1.9v to 2.35v as well as nb volts from 1.25v to 1.45v. I have also tried adding some sb (i know this should have no bearing and it didnt). I have tried combos of this for days now. Basically I used the combination lock method (set mem to a number, add nb, add nb, then new mem volt, and go thru the spectrum of nb again and so on. HELP thanks for reading guys..... also I have had the fsb up to 1430 at 1.41v (3dmark06 loop stable but cant even dream of p95)Thanks again.

If I understand you correctly, you want to increase your oc without voiding your warranty?








Start by increasing cpu vtt to max.


----------



## EAT

Quote:

If I understand you correctly, you want to increase your oc without voiding your warranty?
Start by increasing cpu vtt to max.
Actually I'm sure I've probably voided it..... mostly its just what I've been terming the oc. My only real issue is that I can't get my memory over 945mhz at loose timings (please refer to the rest of the post). I am glad you replied though as I was hoping for you or Roblilar or Uslatin. Oh and for some reason my vtt over 1.4 causes instability on higher overclocks of the fsb. This seems backwards to all I've read at OCN well anywhere in fact. I wont argue as this striker seems very picky about everything. I cant believe adding or decreasing my mem voltage in no way affects my stability! Thanks for your help.......hopefully you have something I havent tried cuz this is ******ed that I cant get over 945 on 1066 rated mem.


----------



## EAT

Just let me know if I was unclear in my original post as I will retype it.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EAT* 
Actually I'm sure I've probably voided it..... mostly its just what I've been terming the oc. My only real issue is that I can't get my memory over 945mhz at loose timings (please refer to the rest of the post). I am glad you replied though as I was hoping for you or Roblilar or Uslatin. Oh and for some reason my vtt over 1.4 causes instability on higher overclocks of the fsb. This seems backwards to all I've read at OCN well anywhere in fact. I wont argue as this striker seems very picky about everything. I cant believe adding or decreasing my mem voltage in no way affects my stability! Thanks for your help.......hopefully you have something I havent tried cuz this is ******ed that I cant get over 945 on 1066 rated mem.

Have you memtested both sticks at stock?
Are sticks in slots 1 and 3?
These boards normally require around .2 or so less than suggested.


----------



## novastar

hi
is it just the one core that gets overclocked on the core 2 duo if so why that
and is there any way to overcloke the other core


----------



## Nisei

Hi all.
I'm trying to OC my Q6600 G0 to 3Ghz (should be a piece of cake from what I've read).
2.8Ghz (9x1244) runs Prime95 stable for hours at 1.3v Vcore but as soon as I'm trying to raise it to 2.9 it's finished and won't post. I upped the Vcore to 1.35v but still nothing. At 2.8Ghz core temperatures are fine at 38C (in Coretemp) idle so that's not the problem. I'm not sure what to do with the memory speed. I have OCZ Platinum PC6400 which has 5-4-4-15 timings which I'm running at the required 2.1v. I have set the FSB-Memory Clock Mode to Unlinked and the memory at 800Mhz. Is this wrong and should it be set to Linked 5:4 or Auto? Or should I just raise the Vcore even more? I'm sure there must be something I could try and perhaps some of you have any ideas or tips?


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nisei* 
Hi all.
I'm trying to OC my Q6600 G0 to 3Ghz (should be a piece of cake from what I've read).
2.8Ghz (9x1244) runs Prime95 stable for hours at 1.3v Vcore but as soon as I'm trying to raise it to 2.9 it's finished and won't post. I upped the Vcore to 1.35v but still nothing. At 2.8Ghz core temperatures are fine at 38C (in Coretemp) idle so that's not the problem. I'm not sure what to do with the memory speed. I have OCZ Platinum PC6400 which has 5-4-4-15 timings which I'm running at the required 2.1v. I have set the FSB-Memory Clock Mode to Unlinked and the memory at 800Mhz. Is this wrong and should it be set to Linked 5:4 or Auto? Or should I just raise the Vcore even more? I'm sure there must be something I could try and perhaps some of you have any ideas or tips?

hey dude. welcome to the forums. those Q6600 G0's should go to 2.8ghz piece of cake, 3ghz is also easy, however is CAN be determined by your motherboard. Fill in your system specs so we can all see them, that way it will be easier for us to help you out..

PS. 1.3v shoudl run 3.ghz very stable, MAYBE 1.31v depending on ur motherboard


----------



## Nisei

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtarmanrob*


hey dude. welcome to the forums.


Thanks









OK here's my specs:

Antec Nine Hundred Case
Gigabyte Odin 800W PSU
Q6600 G0
Freezer 7 Pro cooler (I know, I should get better but temp is not an issue at the moment)
P5N32E-SLI mainboard Bios 1205
2x2GB OCZ Platinum PC6400 800 Mhz 5-4-4-15
GeForce 8800 GTX
4x Samsung Spinpoint 320GB HD


----------



## USlatin

hey it will be a lot easier if you fill those in under *User CP* in the center on the top of the page under an option on the left side called *Edit System* then it will allways appear on your signature and will always be available to others for when you are asking a question or pointing something out related to your rig.

Welcome!


----------



## EAT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
Have you memtested both sticks at stock?
Are sticks in slots 1 and 3?
These boards normally require around .2 or so less than suggested.

Hey havent tried memtest at stock. Didnt really occur to me as they seem to run fine through all my crashes ocing the fsb. I do have the slots in the linked (blue slots 1 and 3). Will get back to you on this thanks for the input


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nisei*


Thanks









OK here's my specs:

Antec Nine Hundred Case
Gigabyte Odin 800W PSU
Q6600 G0
Freezer 7 Pro cooler (I know, I should get better but temp is not an issue at the moment)
P5N32E-SLI mainboard Bios 1205
2x2GB OCZ Platinum PC6400 800 Mhz 5-4-4-15
GeForce 8800 GTX
4x Samsung Spinpoint 320GB HD


nice rig. but yeah, once you're logged in go to UserCP at the top of the screen, then EDIT SYSTEM like the post above mentioned. fill in the blanks there.

Before you go any further, i reccommend you get the 1203 bios from somebody. apparently the 1205 is terrible..


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *novastar*


hi
is it just the one core that gets overclocked on the core 2 duo if so why that
and is there any way to overcloke the other core











Basically the two cores communicate together through the frontside bus. Thus what you do to one happens to the other. Think of two cities each on its own island with bridges going to the mainland but no bridges between the two islands. Its people (information) can head to the mainland but not to the other island. Thus anything you change happens at the mainland and then is communicated equally to each island city. This is true on core 2 duo by intel but AMD does it differently where each city has a bridge that spans both to the mainland and to the other city. So technically speaking if AMD does it correctly thier quads will outperform the intel chips. (technically speaking but we'll have to wait and see if this holds true.)


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nisei*


Hi all.
I'm trying to OC my Q6600 G0 to 3Ghz (should be a piece of cake from what I've read).
2.8Ghz (9x1244) runs Prime95 stable for hours at 1.3v Vcore but as soon as I'm trying to raise it to 2.9 it's finished and won't post. I upped the Vcore to 1.35v but still nothing. At 2.8Ghz core temperatures are fine at 38C (in Coretemp) idle so that's not the problem. I'm not sure what to do with the memory speed. I have OCZ Platinum PC6400 which has 5-4-4-15 timings which I'm running at the required 2.1v. I have set the FSB-Memory Clock Mode to Unlinked and the memory at 800Mhz. Is this wrong and should it be set to Linked 5:4 or Auto? Or should I just raise the Vcore even more? I'm sure there must be something I could try and perhaps some of you have any ideas or tips?


Welcome,
Not sure if maybe you are running into pretty much the same issue I had recently. I agree that you should definetly use the bios that was suggested to you as it made a huge difference for me to dump the new bios for the beta before it. I also found a big hole in the fsb between 3.3ghz (q6700) and 3.5ghz . I stepped over that to 3.55 and had a stable OC (wasnt really comfortable with my vcore reading that high so i dont use it, at least not till I get a multimeter and verify it) So go with the suggestion and then get back to us as I am interested in your plight.


----------



## novastar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EAT* 
Basically the two cores communicate together through the frontside bus. Thus what you do to one happens to the other. Think of two cities each on its own island with bridges going to the mainland but no bridges between the two islands. Its people (information) can head to the mainland but not to the other island. Thus anything you change happens at the mainland and then is communicated equally to each island city. This is true on core 2 duo by intel but AMD does it differently where each city has a bridge that spans both to the mainland and to the other city. So technically speaking if AMD does it correctly thier quads will outperform the intel chips. (technically speaking but we'll have to wait and see if this holds true.)

ok thank

that was very helpfull and that was a good way to explain it








thanks


----------



## Nisei

Thanks for the replies guys. I've also read on another forum that someone was hitting a wall at 2.6Ghz with bios 1205. Does anyone know where I can still dl 1203?
Any help would be appreciated.

[edit]Litlratt helped me out, I'll be posting the results soon







[/edit]


----------



## Liyana

To be honest , the HT Value is pretty pointless...from my tests it doesn't contribute to heat 

and I realised I could do the same with 1.31 HT lol...it was totally unnecessary heh..

The 650i and 680i is pretty same me thinks...still its ok...


----------



## Nisei

Haha, this 1205 bios really is worthless if you want to overclock








I flashed to 1203 this evening and was at 3Ghz in no-time. I'm at 1.3V now and cores stay 35C idle and 48C when running Prime torture. I'm keeping it there for the moment but I think I can get quite a bit more if I want to.


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nisei*


Haha, this 1205 bios really is worthless if you want to overclock








I flashed to 1203 this evening and was at 3Ghz in no-time. I'm at 1.3V now and cores stay 35C idle and 48C when running Prime torture. I'm keeping it there for the moment but I think I can get quite a bit more if I want to.


I was sure that was going to help as it made a vast improvement on the striker (1303 bios)


----------



## t4ct1c47

Hi all,

I just flashed to the 1203 BIOS myself, as anything over 1280FSB on the latest 1205 won't boot into Windows, no matter what voltages I try. My overclock is now as I expected, 1333FSB with AUTO voltage for the CPU vCore, all other voltages manually set to their factory default apart from VTT. This board may have some life yet for me, but I won't be carrying on clocking until I've gotten this week's Uni assignments out of the way.

Cheer's again to all those who posted, or PM'ed, their voltage settings. They should prove useful when I get back to clocking.


----------



## off chops

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


Hi all,

I just flashed to the 1203 BIOS myself, as anything over 1280FSB on the latest 1205 won't boot into Windows, no matter what voltages I try. My overclock is now as I expected, 1333FSB with AUTO voltage for the CPU vCore, all other voltages manually set to their factory default apart from VTT. This board may have some life yet for me, but I won't be carrying on clocking until I've gotten this week's Uni assignments out of the way.

Cheer's again to all those who posted, or PM'ed, their voltage settings. They should prove useful when I get back to clocking.










I would keep an eye on that cpu voltage mate. my mate had his set to auto at 3ghz and he checked his everest volts and it said 1.4v. not saying yours will but just incase. but yeah the 1203 bios rocks. i just got my q6600 stable at 3.78ghz. WooT!!


----------



## off chops

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liyana*


To be honest , the HT Value is pretty pointless...from my tests it doesn't contribute to heat 

and I realised I could do the same with 1.31 HT lol...it was totally unnecessary heh..

The 650i and 680i is pretty same me thinks...still its ok...


yeah the HT voltage is the hyper threading voltage. wich sends the info between the north and southbridge. me thinks, lol


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *off chops*


I would keep an eye on that cpu voltage mate. my mate had his set to auto at 3ghz and he checked his everest volts and it said 1.4v. not saying yours will but just incase. but yeah the 1203 bios rocks. i just got my q6600 stable at 3.78ghz. WooT!!


lol @ 3ghz it put the Vcore to 1.45v when i set it to auto...i have it @ 1.45v to run 3.5ghz stable...like chops said, dont set it to auto anything above like 5-10% of ur stock clocks


----------



## Liyana

you would be correct







its the voltage for the link between the SPP and MCP .


----------



## Litlratt

And they said it couldn't be done.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=222404
4.05 Ghz


----------



## USlatin

NOt posting my uber dorky post of amazement till you say so:

Is it stable? What test how long?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


NOt posting my uber dorky post of amazement till you say so:

Is it stable? What test how long?


I just got in. No test yet.
Scared to hit the test button.
I really doubt that I'll be able to stabilize it. I might be able to do some benches.
Same settings as before except 9X multi and 1.58125 vcore.


----------



## USlatin

DUDE!!!! [email protected]!!!

I posted agian on your build thread... did you see my new take on your name? heheh you are an arch-villain heheh...

I am starting to think that my hunch was right... I didn't post about it but I have allways thoguht that the stability issues might have to do with the Mosfet cooling.... you have the stock grills on yours.... and without the connection to the hot NB or the SB then those things are uber over-kill.... and you need that for the Q's... I think I need to do my PSU instal and run those cables through the back of my A900 just so I can get a new seating on my NB and switch the thermal tape for the 3M tape I got a long time ago... then test....

My Mosfets are sharing one copper swiftech per pair.... there isn't a whole llot of contact area.... the tape I have on it is a POS I found on the interwebz... and I am not passing more than a few hours of small FFT's or blend... I should memtest first to isolate the problemz... but I have been in uvber-lazy mode for the past 2 weeks


----------



## shifty22123

Hey guys...Need some quick help on this mobo! I was overclocking it the other night and got a nice stable OC on it and the next morning when I turned it back on it would not post! I made a thread but no one seems to be helping there, so I'm trying here where everyone has this board

Link to the thread

Thanks in advance


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Did anyone else see this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231145

I got a pair just to see how it compares to 4x1 Ballistix.

BTW, I find 1.45 on the NB unstable with my config. The Spirit II is VERY hot to the touch, even on the very top. Recommendations, s'il-vous plait!


----------



## Robilar

try re-seating the spirit. The first time I mounted it the contact was not level.

USlatin, I agree completely on the VRM cooling (pic included)

The swiftech set fits perfectly and comes with good tape


----------



## COBRA88

System: On aftermarket air cooling w/Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II on chipsets. E6850 duo currently running at 3600mhz at 400fsb with 9X as multiplier. 1:1 ratio with memory bus. Voltages are Vcore 1.52, 1.2V HT is 1.3, NB Core is 1.4V, SB core is 1.5V with CPU VTT maxed at 1.55. My CPU runs at 25-27C idle and 48-51C load, motherboard temps stay around 41-42C. Basically the CPU temps havnt gone up at all from when it was stock (3000mhz). I do have TEC cooling on CPU (Vigor Gaming Monsoon). Should I push it farther? Thinking 4000mhz is easily obtainable. Should voltages be changed to go higher? Also any reliable voltage reading programs out there? Probe II and Nvidia monitor are all over the place with their readings.
Thanks for any help

Some pics from before i installed the new fans and heatsinks
http://img396.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0868mp0.jpg
http://img396.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0863qg0.jpg
http://img396.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0869rf5.jpg


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


try re-seating the spirit. The first time I mounted it the contact was not level.

USlatin, I agree completely on the VRM cooling (pic included)

The swiftech set fits perfectly and comes with good tape


hummm... I do have those aluminum ones still... but I am not sure Robilar... I mean you would think that with a good thermal conducing material in between you should be ok even if only with 60% surface area contact... Maybe I'll cut the pipes and do as Ratt did... it is too much work to try three different sets of Mosfet cooling sinks and isolate their effect from the necessary testing of NB seatings... huf...

what do you think? I mean would I really loose the ability to sell the board just cause I cut the pipes?

heck most people want to use better cooling anyway... right?










Is anyone here on a Q66 and the black aluminum swiftechs?


----------



## Liyana

me thinks the HR-05 is better than the extreme spirit 2. Lapped too and I get horrible hot temps


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


DUDE!!!! [email protected]!!!

I posted agian on your build thread... did you see my new take on your name? heheh you are an arch-villain heheh...

I am starting to think that my hunch was right... I didn't post about it but I have allways thoguht that the stability issues might have to do with the Mosfet cooling.... you have the stock grills on yours.... and without the connection to the hot NB or the SB then those things are uber over-kill.... and you need that for the Q's... I think I need to do my PSU instal and run those cables through the back of my A900 just so I can get a new seating on my NB and switch the thermal tape for the 3M tape I got a long time ago... then test....

My Mosfets are sharing one copper swiftech per pair.... there isn't a whole llot of contact area.... the tape I have on it is a POS I found on the interwebz... and I am not passing more than a few hours of small FFT's or blend... I should memtest first to isolate the problemz... but I have been in uvber-lazy mode for the past 2 weeks


My problem with your theory regarding the vrm/mosfets is that the stock sinks only cover a portion of the ones on the left side of the cpu. I don't think that size will compensate for bad board design. I would suggest that Robilar's solution is more efficient than the modified stock. 
I bought a set of the HR-09s. They will not fit without modification. At the time, I felt it was more trouble than it was worth, so I didn't even attempt it.
Keep in mind that I have always had 4 120mm low CFM fans pushing ambient directly on the mobo.
Regarding selling your mobo. I think the after market enhancements would be a selling point, as I would include the nb, sb and mosfet coolers with the board.
The problem with the alteration of the stock is RMA.


----------



## USlatin

Yea good point Ratt... I was thinking about selling it with the cooling on it...

hummm.... I really wish the aluminum swiftechs were bigger and copper...

now I think you have better cooling with your setup... but both of you think otherwise... there is no way to know unless you get around to installing the same aluminum swiftechs.... though the HR-09s are king if you can somehow modd them with careful cutting...

aghhh.... maybe I should just switch out PSUs, do the clean wire management modd to the case... re-seat the NB... and then maybe just switch the material on the existing mosfets and see what that does...

what sucks is that I'll have a different NB seating, better mosfet heat conduction paper AND a better PSU all at once.... so I won't really learn anything... but I can't be messign with the work horse too much....

I AM GETTING A NEW DESK THOUGH!!!







that should be simple same one as BigVal's


----------



## Liyana

yeah I agree , the mosfet cooling was a big factor for stability in my OC too...

no idea what to use since a lot of things can't fit or are too weak...


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liyana* 
yeah I agree , the mosfet cooling was a big factor for stability in my OC too...

no idea what to use since a lot of things can't fit or are too weak...

Please explain, you confused me.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Yea good point Ratt... I was thinking about selling it with the cooling on it...

hummm.... I really wish the aluminum swiftechs were bigger and copper...

now I think you have better cooling with your setup... but both of you think otherwise... there is no way to know unless you get around to installing the same aluminum swiftechs.... though the HR-09s are king if you can somehow modd them with careful cutting...

aghhh.... maybe I should just switch out PSUs, do the clean wire management modd to the case... re-seat the NB... and then maybe just switch the material on the existing mosfets and see what that does...

what sucks is that I'll have a different NB seating, better mosfet heat conduction paper AND a better PSU all at once.... so I won't really learn anything... but I can't be messign with the work horse too much....

I AM GETTING A NEW DESK THOUGH!!!







that should be simple same one as BigVal's

I'm sure the Swiftechs will be fine with some air across them.
Regarding the 4.05 Ghz overclock:
The relationship I had with my ex-wife was more stable.


----------



## novastar

hi

i just went to do a stres test and useing SiSoftware Sandra Lite XIIc, about 5min into the test i had a blue screen can any one tell me wye it was memory dumping


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *novastar* 
hi

i just went to do a stres test and useing SiSoftware Sandra Lite XIIc, about 5min into the test i had a blue screen can any one tell me wye it was memory dumping

This is just a guess as I haven't read anything on it, but I would think it would be to dump anything that might be corrupted or harmful to your system when rebooting. I also believe the os can/will use the dump for troubleshooting.


----------



## novastar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


This is just a guess as I haven't read anything on it, but I would think it would be to dump anything that might be corrupted or harmful to your system when rebooting. I also believe the os can/will use the dump for troubleshooting.


so what can i do about the i just tryed it again same thing happen again 
i have followed the overclocking guid set all the voltages could it be sothing to do with the voltege cpu is at 2.5GHz, memory timing is 5 5 5 5 12


----------



## EAT

i hope that was a typo as 2.5v surely will fry something on that board if you have your vcore up that high. I'm guessing that was for mem volts and that is pretty high too, usually has been recommended by the gurus not to exceed 2.35v or 2.4v on memory.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *novastar*


so what can i do about the i just tryed it again same thing happen again 
i have followed the overclocking guid set all the voltages could it be sothing to do with the voltege cpu is at 2.5GHz, memory timing is 5 5 5 5 12


It only means that your overclock is not stable.


----------



## Nisei

Just curious: when you guys say "I'm running on 1.36v Vcore" do you mean you entered that into the bios or is it the actual measured voltage? I've entered 1.30v in the bios but Everest is telling me it's 1.28


----------



## EAT

When using windows what program do you peeps feel measures vcore the best? I've got as much as a .05v difference between all of em; cpu-z, everest, ntune, and pc probe.


----------



## Liyana

I meant that the little black cubes ( MOSFETs right ? )

are god damn hot ....

and that the 3rd party heatsinks out there are either too lousy to cool it or can't fit....


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nisei*


Just curious: when you guys say "I'm running on 1.36v Vcore" do you mean you entered that into the bios or is it the actual measured voltage? I've entered 1.30v in the bios but Everest is telling me it's 1.28


yeah mate you go by what Everest reports. you're getting what we call Vdroop. most motherboards do it. the voltage set in the bios usually upon loading into windows drops a tiny bit, in your case .02v which is not much at all. it can differ again when the CPU is at full load. its nothing to worry about, but it can have an adverse effect on overclocking when you start getting into really high clocks.

if it really starts to bother you, for example you're entering 1.45v in the bios and reporting like 1.40-1.41v, like mine did when i first got it, then you need to apply the 'pencil mod'. real easy and safe to do.

Heres how to do it if you need to: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=134100


----------



## USlatin

Ratt... I guess that's not good then.... I mean... well, you know what I mean, cause I think I know what you mean... WOMEN!

Did you guys see Ratt's case?!?!?! It is looking spectacular.


----------



## rkshelton21

Ok, thanks for all your help so far guys. I have quake4 now running capped at 60fps due to vsync and it's constant. Although for some reason after I did a load it wasn't quite constant and was dropping down to 44fps but I think my board might have been getting a bit hot at that point and I have heard rumors of it doing weird things like that on load.
Anyway, long story short everything works now. The Nvidia control center was over riding my settings with ones that were slowing it down. All is well now though







Thanks guys! Now I will start some over clocking


----------



## trueg50

I just thought I should thank you guys for your excellent help.

I recently purchased a Thermalright HR-05 SLI and regular, both the IFX models, and Swiftech MC21's for the Mosfets.

Though mounting was a challenge, I had the SLI for the south bridge with an 80mm fan on it, and the north bridge had the regular model operating passively, with a Tuniq tower sideways drawing air over it.

My temps were (taken from an onboard sensor via everest with an ambient temperature of ~20 C)

TIM used for all tests: Arctic Silver 5.
e6400 3.0 ghz, 1.26 volts.
Idle: 44
Load: 50
System: 35 degree's

There is also a 40mm fan blowing on my north bridge for the original test.

Now with the stuff installed:
Idle: ~36 degree's
Load ~44 degree's
System: 26 degree's

Note, some of the change could be since I changed the orientation of my Tuniq tower, however I don't imagine that the effect was more than a degree or two.

Also, because of the 80mm fan, my GPU temperature dropped about 5 degree's C.


----------



## Nisei

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtarmanrob*


yeah mate you go by what Everest reports. you're getting what we call Vdroop. most motherboards do it. the voltage set in the bios usually upon loading into windows drops a tiny bit, in your case .02v which is not much at all. it can differ again when the CPU is at full load. its nothing to worry about, but it can have an adverse effect on overclocking when you start getting into really high clocks.

if it really starts to bother you, for example you're entering 1.45v in the bios and reporting like 1.40-1.41v, like mine did when i first got it, then you need to apply the 'pencil mod'. real easy and safe to do.

Heres how to do it if you need to: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=134100


Thanks again for the info.
It's not bothering me at all but I just wanted to know what to tell others when I'm reporting my vcore voltage. If Everest is indeed used for all values (core temps, cpu temp and voltages) then from now on I'll also stick to that.


----------



## pgwalker73

I have the following specs:

Q6700 on the P5n32-E
Aquagate S1 Liquid CPU cooler
2 side mounted 120mm fans blowing on mobo/cpu
4gb Corsair XMS2 (cm2x1024-6400) rated at 5.5.5.12.2t at 1.9v (800mhz)
2 8800 Ultras in SLI

I am using the 1205 beta bios.

I tried the following and got an error on one core in prime95:

[email protected] (stock 1066) to hit 3.2ghz on the Q6700 (core multi locked so I have to up the fsb)

Voltages:
Vcore: 1.375
Memory V: 1.9 (as stated in memory specs)
HT V: 1.3
NB Core: 1.4
SB Core: 1.5
CPU VTT: 1.55

My memory timings are all set on default and I have the fsb/mem unlinked and the memory at 800mhz.

With this setup I was at about 40c idle on the cores and about 60-63c under load on prime95. I understand the Q6700 has a pretty high temp rating, so are load tems in the low 60s ok?

The error happened on one core after about 45 minutes running.

Can anyone recommend good settings for this CPU, etc. Also, is my memory able to take any overclocking?

Also, since I recently updated the bios, I did not have some of the items disabled this guide recommends in the bios (I did have them disabled before) - can some of these, if left on, cause errors when running prime and you are overclocked? I can disable all the items in this guide and retest later.

Thanks!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hi. I just bought an E6750 (G0) for my wife's computer. Would I be totally insane if I wanted to trade my QX6700 (B3) for it to see how things go? Is that like a few baby steps forward and a huge step back, or not?


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pgwalker73*


I have the following specs:

Q6700 on the P5n32-E
Aquagate S1 Liquid CPU cooler
2 side mounted 120mm fans blowing on mobo/cpu
4gb Corsair XMS2 (cm2x1024-6400) rated at 5.5.5.12.2t at 1.9v (800mhz)
2 8800 Ultras in SLI

I am using the 1205 beta bios.

I tried the following and got an error on one core in prime95:

[email protected] (stock 1066) to hit 3.2ghz on the Q6700 (core multi locked so I have to up the fsb)

Voltages:
Vcore: 1.375
Memory V: 1.9 (as stated in memory specs)
HT V: 1.3
NB Core: 1.4
SB Core: 1.5
CPU VTT: 1.55

My memory timings are all set on default and I have the fsb/mem unlinked and the memory at 800mhz.

With this setup I was at about 40c idle on the cores and about 60-63c under load on prime95. I understand the Q6700 has a pretty high temp rating, so are load tems in the low 60s ok?

The error happened on one core after about 45 minutes running.

Can anyone recommend good settings for this CPU, etc. Also, is my memory able to take any overclocking?

Also, since I recently updated the bios, I did not have some of the items disabled this guide recommends in the bios (I did have them disabled before) - can some of these, if left on, cause errors when running prime and you are overclocked? I can disable all the items in this guide and retest later.

Thanks!


I have the q6700 on a striker and those temps aren't bad at all. Well at least if the ambient inside the tower is 35-40c. As for updating the bios a lot of people on this thread feel 1205 is awful and to go with 1203 instead. This made a vast improvement in the overclockability of one member who actually just did this (if you check back about 4 pages i believe). As for those values in the bios, I've found that the c1e and speedstepping didnt effect my overclock much after I found a good solid oc but I think hindered me quite a bit in beggining finding one. Not sure what other values you might be mentioning. I have my q6700 @ 1333 x10 with these volts stable 16hrs prime 95

as listed in bios options
vcore 1.36
mem 1.9
nb 1.25
1.2Ht 1.25
sb 1.5
cpu vtt 1.35

all rest on auto.

If you are only getting one error on p95 I'd say you are pretty close to finding stability. I personally had to bring my ht volts down from 1.35 to 1.25 to find stability even though I've found a lot of people contradict that it shouldnt matter. (my board is known to be a PIA)


----------



## mba2dna

Last month, I fried my NV 680i few days after vdroop mod. The vdroop mod could reduce the vdroop from 0.7V to 0.3V. Few days later I got a new one but could not get the system stable even at 3.2G (BSOD about 1 hour no matter it is idle or busy). I was not dare to do the pencil mod again. Reading from other forums that the TIM of VRM heatsink of NV680i could cause the system instable. I went out and got a tube of ASC. Took me 1 hours to clean up the old rubber like TIM and put ASC to it. At the same time, replace the TIM of SB and NB with AS5. After that, the rig is rock stable at 3.6G.


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mba2dna* 
Last month, I fried my NV 680i few days after vdroop mod. The vdroop mod could reduce the vdroop from 0.7V to 0.3V. Few days later I got a new one but could not get the system stable even at 3.2G (BSOD about 1 hour no matter it is idle or busy). I was not dare to do the pencil mod again. Reading from other forums that the TIM of VRM heatsink of NV680i could cause the system instable. I went out and got a tube of ASC. Took me 1 hours to clean up the old rubber like TIM and put ASC to it. At the same time, replace the TIM of SB and NB with AS5. After that, the rig is rock stable at 3.6G.

frying a board from applying the pencil mod is definitely do-able, however it means that you over-applied the 2B pencil. you should have noticed your voltage readings over-volting at idle and load and immediately removed the pencil. if your volts were still reporting lower after applying the mod, IE after the mod 1.45v was still reporting say 1.43v, then it wasnt the pencil mod that killed your board. unless you managed to get lead on the board itself or the wrong/incorrect resistor.


----------



## mba2dna

May be... last time i did pencil mod was due to my curiosity rather than any need as the system was stable and not very hot. So I just leave the current one as it is.


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mba2dna* 
May be... last time i did pencil mod was due to my curiosity rather than any need as the system was stable and not very hot. *So I just leave the current one as it is*.

lol. sometimes thats always the best option







if it aint broken dont fix it.


----------



## off chops

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pgwalker73*


I have the following specs:

Q6700 on the P5n32-E
Aquagate S1 Liquid CPU cooler
2 side mounted 120mm fans blowing on mobo/cpu
4gb Corsair XMS2 (cm2x1024-6400) rated at 5.5.5.12.2t at 1.9v (800mhz)
2 8800 Ultras in SLI

I am using the 1205 beta bios.

I tried the following and got an error on one core in prime95:

[email protected] (stock 1066) to hit 3.2ghz on the Q6700 (core multi locked so I have to up the fsb)

Voltages:
Vcore: 1.375
Memory V: 1.9 (as stated in memory specs)
HT V: 1.3
NB Core: 1.4
SB Core: 1.5
CPU VTT: 1.55

My memory timings are all set on default and I have the fsb/mem unlinked and the memory at 800mhz.

With this setup I was at about 40c idle on the cores and about 60-63c under load on prime95. I understand the Q6700 has a pretty high temp rating, so are load tems in the low 60s ok?

The error happened on one core after about 45 minutes running.

Can anyone recommend good settings for this CPU, etc. Also, is my memory able to take any overclocking?

Also, since I recently updated the bios, I did not have some of the items disabled this guide recommends in the bios (I did have them disabled before) - can some of these, if left on, cause errors when running prime and you are overclocked? I can disable all the items in this guide and retest later.

Thanks!


hows it goin mate. well first of all flash ur bios to 1203. right there is your problem. ive got a q6600 and with the 1205 bios i couldn't load in passed 2.7ghz. lol. i was furiouse. with the 1203 bios im now stable at 3.78ghz. so its worth it. make sure you use the biosflash. if you dont there is a really high chance of you killing the board. this happend to me when i flashed in windows. hope it helps ya


----------



## Litlratt

Robilar addressed the effect the pencil mod had on other components some time ago.
As a result, I try to reduce vdroop. Not do away with it completely and definitely not to the point where you increase voltage in Windows or upon load.


----------



## pgwalker73

Well, as I was warned, the 1205s are in fact terrible for OC. I wasn't able to get stable at all close to where I was in a prior version.

On that note, where can I get the 1203s? I didn't save those anywhere.

On the topic of temps, how long should I run a stress test before I can assume the max temp has been reached? It seems to stabilize about 30 min in, but how long should I run to know what my max "at load" temp is?

Thanks!


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pgwalker73*


Well, as I was warned, the 1205s are in fact terrible for OC. I wasn't able to get stable at all close to where I was in a prior version.

On that note, where can I get the 1203s? I didn't save those anywhere.

On the topic of temps, how long should I run a stress test before I can assume the max temp has been reached? It seems to stabilize about 30 min in, but how long should I run to know what my max "at load" temp is?

Thanks!


Most people seem to say 15 to 20 min. I've noticed 45 to 50 min in my q6700 seem to drop about 3 to 5c so I say an hour, but thats just what I noticed.


----------



## off chops

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pgwalker73* 
Well, as I was warned, the 1205s are in fact terrible for OC. I wasn't able to get stable at all close to where I was in a prior version.

On that note, where can I get the 1203s? I didn't save those anywhere.

On the topic of temps, how long should I run a stress test before I can assume the max temp has been reached? It seems to stabilize about 30 min in, but how long should I run to know what my max "at load" temp is?

Thanks!

if you give me ur email i will send u the 1203 rom.


----------



## pgwalker73

...if you give me ur email i will send u the 1203 rom.

Thanks, I got it from the FTP









I tried the EZ Flash 2 tool using a CD I burned with the bios file, but the tool couldn't find it (I tried looking on all the drives that showed up). I don't have a floppy drive, so would a flash drive or the like work? Why can't it see it on the CD I burned? The fike I got from the FTP was named "1203.bin", does it need to be a .rom file for EZ Flash to find it?

Thanks.


----------



## Mmmm~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pgwalker73*


...if you give me ur email i will send u the 1203 rom.

Thanks, I got it from the FTP









I tried the EZ Flash 2 tool using a CD I burned with the bios file, but the tool couldn't find it (I tried looking on all the drives that showed up). I don't have a floppy drive, so would a flash drive or the like work? Why can't it see it on the CD I burned? The fike I got from the FTP was named "1203.bin", does it need to be a .rom file for EZ Flash to find it?

Thanks.



my EZ flash wouldnt find anything besides a floppy drive. (thank you USB portable floppy for 2 bucks from compusa







)


----------



## USlatin

^ same here though I didn't try the SD card method or the USB dongle...

USB floppy from RadioShack works flawlessly... but $40 cold have gotten be a 4GB SD!


----------



## CpLRusty

Believe it or not, EZ-Flash on my comp won't see USB flash drives. But if I put an SD card into my internal multi-card reader which is on a USB header, EZ-Flash sees that just fine. So I do BIOS updates that way and it works great!


----------



## Nisei

Weird. Mine works just fine with a 1GB Kingston USB stick, same fw as yours.

[edit]Hm but then again, the firmware was of course different when I flashed it...







[edit]


----------



## Litlratt

The BIOS's failure to find a USB stick could have something to do with the settings regarding USB or that the USB was plugged into a hub rather than direct. I've never tried it thru a hub.
SanDisk 4Gb works here.


----------



## novastar

hi

i had some trubble with with my system shutting down by it's self it terned out to be the psu got a new one, but i now don't have memory,1.2VHT,SB core,CPU VTT,DDR2 termand and NB core voltages in the voltage monitor in the BIOS.

And will it any difrance to overclocking it.

the motherboard is a p5n32-e sli
new psu is a jeantech 600w artic

can any one help

thanks


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *novastar* 
hi

i had some trubble with with my system shutting down by it's self it terned out to be the psu got a new one, but i now don't have memory,1.2VHT,SB core,CPU VTT,DDR2 termand and NB core voltages in the voltage monitor in the BIOS.

And will it any difrance to overclocking it.

the motherboard is a p5n32-e sli
new psu is a jeantech 600w artic

can any one help

thanks

Save BIOS config to a profile, reset CMOS, restore BIOS profile, and go....


----------



## Litlratt

Reset the psu.


----------



## novastar

ok
thanks for your help, will do







this system is doing my head in i fill like
doing this







to my system

any thanks


----------



## novastar

just done what you suggested and worked fine so far

thanks again


----------



## USlatin

HAPPY PAGE 311


----------



## bundlebr

All main settings are in the attached file, FYI.
While switching from 1305 to 1303, fried one stick of Crucial 8500 memory - didn't change voltage settings to rated before loading the PC...
All other settings are Disabled or auto, according to the first page of the thread.


----------



## USlatin

so I decided to take some time to rethink my setup and I picked up a pair of desks that I am putting together into one massive work area.... also took my puter out of the case and started testing:

I removed copper swiftechs from Mosfets and installed the aluminum black ones. I am also running off the PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750W finally! *(testing)*

I might try the copper swiftechs with the 3M tape.... but if these solve my problem, forget about finding out how that setup performs, cause I am sticking to it!

I will also do the A900 rear-pannel wire management mod.

So I am in full OC and mod mode once again! WOHOOOO!!!!
(its been a long time, sorry about the excitement)


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
so I decided to take some time to rethink my setup and I picked up a pair of desks that I am putting together into one massive work area.... also took my puter out of the case and started testing:

I removed copper swiftechs from Mosfets and installed the aluminum black ones. I am also running off the PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750W finally! *(testing)*

I might try the copper swiftechs with the 3M tape.... but if these solve my problem, forget about finding out how that setup performs, cause I am sticking to it!

I will also do the A900 rear-pannel wire management mod.

So I am in full OC and mod mode once again! WOHOOOO!!!!
(its been a long time, sorry about the excitement)

OMG







Here we go again!!!


----------



## USlatin

@^&(*#^@*#^@#@%#$q*!!!! ( :swearing: )

So it turns out that one of my G. Skill HZ's is the problem!
MemTest goes BAM! within the first 15 seconds... found out by doing one at a time...

...and all this time I blamed the NB...

...I am distraught... the only good thing that came out of this was the re-seating of my Mosfet HS's and NB cooler... plus a good cleaning. I did also rip-off the opposing fan blade from the one that was already missing on my NB HSF to find it did away with a ridiculous amount of vibration from the center of the mass of the fan being offset from the center.

My main problem, and the one I'd appreciate help on:
I don't have the stickers on the heat spreaders of the RAM!!! So I have to figure out what to do since I can't RMA... Should I sell the pair and pick up a new set of good OC'ing ram? Same one? Sell the bad one, buy a new set and keep the good one for 3GB? But I don't have cash to spend. I need 2GB though...

Help me out guys...


----------



## slytown

http://www.overclock.net/intel-bios/...1203-bios.html

1203 bios


----------



## USlatin

^ nice! thanks for the link... though I think I might be going ABIT IP35 Pro within the week...

So I put in an order for a set of the Lanfest/Newegg special edition Crucials...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148144

We'll see what happens when I get them (Tuesday)... then if I can get into the 1800 x 8 hole I might stick with our MoBo just out of not wanting to redo the cooling...


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
@^&(*#^@*#^@#@%#*!!!! ( :swearing: )

So it turns out that one of my G. Skill HZ's is the problem!
MemTest goes BAM! within the first 15 seconds... found out by doing one at a time...

...and all this time I blamed the NB...

...I am distraught... the only good thing that came out of this was the re-seating of my Mosfet HS's and NB cooler... plus a good cleaning. I did also rip-off the opposing fan blade from the one that was already missing on my NB HSF to find it did away with a ridiculous amount of vibration from the center of the mass of the fan being offset from the center.

My main problem, and the one I'd appreciate help on:
I don't have the stickers on the heat spreaders of the RAM!!! So I have to figure out what to do since I can't RMA... Should I sell the pair and pick up a new set of good OC'ing ram? Same one? Sell the bad one, buy a new set and keep the good one for 3GB? But I don't have cash to spend. I need 2GB though...

Help me out guys...

Was this the first time you tested them?
Or did one go bad after you tested?
This board requires less ram voltage than suggested by the manufacturer of the 4 types that I've tried with it.
Good luck with your next ones


----------



## USlatin

Are you suggesting I set them to lover voltages and try again?

I haven't ran MemTest in a long time... so I forget where the sweet spots were but I remember running a pair witn my Duo at 1100MHz or 950MHz at 1T.... both 4-4-4-12

Either way I have a pair of the Lanfest/Newegg special edition Crucials which are essentially the same thing with D9's... then I'll be able to figure out what to do with the HZ's... maybe sell them off in Ebay to someone who wants to run them stock.... ?!?!

I also listed my MoBo to see if I get the full cost of an ABIT IP35 Pro... then I might switch over just for simplicity since it is a rock solid Q66G0 OC'er and I am not going SLI after all.... instead I am getting Vista and running a 7600GT or something else like it for my third LCD...

Ratt... how your arch-villain monster man-eating rig doing? anything new?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I plonked in a E6750 over the weekend to see how it would do on this board (I bought it for my wife, but lent her my QX6700 for a while). I went to 450x8 for an easy 3.6, but I was curious on two points:

1) I had to go up to 1.5125 vCore to get stable. Even though this meant only 55(c) load, it seems high. Do I need to up my NB a lot more to get a lower vCore?

2) I want to get up towards 3.8 (to justify having only two cores instead of four). What do I need to know about getting closer to a FSB of 475?


----------



## Nisei

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


So I put in an order for a set of the Lanfest/Newegg special edition Crucials...


Why didn't you just buy the exact same you already had and take the stickers of the new ones, put them on the bad ones and then RMA them?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Are you suggesting I set them to lover voltages and try again?

I haven't ran MemTest in a long time... so I forget where the sweet spots were but I remember running a pair witn my Duo at 1100MHz or 950MHz at 1T.... both 4-4-4-12

Either way I have a pair of the Lanfest/Newegg special edition Crucials which are essentially the same thing with D9's... then I'll be able to figure out what to do with the HZ's... maybe sell them off in Ebay to someone who wants to run them stock.... ?!?!

I also listed my MoBo to see if I get the full cost of an ABIT IP35 Pro... then I might switch over just for simplicity since it is a rock solid Q66G0 OC'er and I am not going SLI after all.... instead I am getting Vista and running a 7600GT or something else like it for my third LCD...

Ratt... how your arch-villain monster man-eating rig doing? anything new?

No, I'm not saying that. I'm saying that all the ram I have tried on this board required less than the manufacturer suggested. Why add voltage if it isn't needed?
Still running great with the quad at 3.6. I'm going to put the EVGA A1 back in it and see how far I can get it to run some benchies. I haven't tried disabling any of the cores yet and I'm interested in what it will do by doing that.


----------



## USlatin

Disabling the cores? As in running the Q66G0 as a Duo? That might be VERY interesting!

About the voltages.... I had very good luck with several sets of HZ's but since I put the Quad in stuff went AWOL... that's why I am not only getting the new RAM but also switching over to a Quad MoBo...

Nisei.... I peeled off the stickers... NOBODY SAY A DANG WORD ABOUT IT!!!! I FEEL BAD ABOUT IT.... NUFF SAID!!! lol


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I can't get over 450 on the FSB with my E6750. Any ideas? vCore as high as 1.525, [email protected] I get POST, but BSOD as soon as Vista starts to load. Once, I was able to see the BSOD which said "IRQ NOT LESS OR EQUAL", which I always took as a RAM-related thing, so I dialed back the RAM, but no joy.

USlatin, I'm also going back to the Ballistix I had (4x1 PC2-8500). Even though they had loose heatspreaders, they overclocked brilliantly. The G.Skill are nice (2x2GB), but I can't tighten the timings for the life of me unless they are running below 800MHz.


----------



## USlatin

Dosto,
yea I heard the 2GB sticks are not good clockers... but the HZ's are excellent... which worries me and has me confused and annoyed.

We'll see how the Crucials do tomorrow... but I wish I had a new pair of HZ's


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Disabling the cores? As in running the Q66G0 as a Duo? That might be VERY interesting!

About the voltages.... I had very good luck with several sets of HZ's but since I put the Quad in stuff went AWOL... that's why I am not only getting the new RAM but also switching over to a Quad MoBo...

Nisei.... I peeled off the stickers... NOBODY SAY A DANG WORD ABOUT IT!!!! I FEEL BAD ABOUT IT.... NUFF SAID!!! lol

Yes, if I can disable cores to get a higher clock for the benches that don't need/use them then I will gain in those. Then I enable all four for the ones that will use them (06). Kind of a best of both worlds in theory.
Not a clue if it will work though.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hey, all. I finally got to 3.8 on my E6750, but I can't get beyond it because I'm unwilling to push my vCore any higher. It's currently at 1.575 (despite what CPU-Z says). The only program I can accurately check my temps with is CoreTemp (even Everest Ultimate gives me abnormally low temps). Does anyone know how to PERMANENTLY disable driver signing in Vista? I keep forgetting to press F8 at startup. LilRatt, I'm curious at how your 4.0 is doing on your E6850. Did you do that on this board?

Cheers,

d


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Oh. I forgot to mensh, but I have this list of FSB:RAM timings on this board. Most of it doesn't apply to any of you because you have the G0 quads, but take a look at the difference between tightened timings and faster speeds for the B3 quad. Then take a look at memory bandwidth with the E6750. Very interesting, n'est-ce pas? B3+quad=shooting yourself in the foot. Robilar, I would be VERY interested to see your memory benches!


----------



## alexisd

WOW 313 pages thread,just said hi to all the good members that, help others in this great guide.I been a little busy but for the record my rig still solid rock.Can't invest in computer's part's for now.As long i have 2 new machines.Want to share a little bit with you.And do a mod's in a truck and car is expensive too.][/URL].Hope the pic's work.And i have for my son a 2008 camry too.And we ready to do some mod's.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Hey, all. I finally got to 3.8 on my E6750, but I can't get beyond it because I'm unwilling to push my vCore any higher. It's currently at 1.575 (despite what CPU-Z says). The only program I can accurately check my temps with is CoreTemp (even Everest Ultimate gives me abnormally low temps). Does anyone know how to PERMANENTLY disable driver signing in Vista? I keep forgetting to press F8 at startup. LilRatt, I'm curious at how your 4.0 is doing on your E6850. Did you do that on this board?

Cheers,

d


Yes. Mine was a volt hog and required .1 more than what most people were reporting. I got my highest benches with that chip except for 06 and Sandra CPU. I retired it to play with the quad.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


WOW 313 pages thread,just said hi to all the good members that, help others in this great guide.I been a little busy but for the record my rig still solid rock.Can't invest in computer's part's for now.As long i have 2 new machines.Want to share a little bit with you.And do a mod's in a truck and car is expensive too..Hope the pic's work.And i have for my son a 2008 camry too.And we ready to do some mod's.


Congrats alex. Looks like a lot of fun. Was wondering what was up with you as I hadn't seen any post here or in the benches section from you in awhile.


----------



## USlatin

yea... Alex its been a while mag!


----------



## alexisd

Thank's mates for the cheers.Mod cars it's not easy but a lot of fun too.Some more pic's.Hope all you'r rigs are doing fine.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Last night, I discovered I wasn't stable at 3.8GHz without 1.6125 vCore. Is that too high for 24/7? My temps seem great (33/63), but is it a no-no to have a persistent vCore over 1.6?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Last night, I discovered I wasn't stable at 3.8GHz without 1.6125 vCore. Is that too high for 24/7? My temps seem great (33/63), but is it a no-no to have a persistent vCore over 1.6?


I sure hope not, I was running mine at 1.63. Suicide runs at 1.73


----------



## USlatin

I just saw a post at 4.45GHz on a Q66G0 in an ABIT IP35 Pro...









I asked if it is stable but I doubt it heheheh.... still... I'll let you guys know when he answers

http://www.overclock.net/attachments...4x9-11-43r.jpg

*EDIT:*
Figures... a Vapor Chill


----------



## T0aSty

Dang man.... how can you go from awesome bios (1203) to such crap (1205)!!!!

Can someone please do me a favor and send or let me know where to get the 1203 bios?? I deleted mine (Installed Vista) figuring hey... it can only get better.

Plus, I just bought a razor copperhead mouse and was having problems with it so i kinda figured i had to update. Bad idea... any one know if you can get the copperhead to work good on the 1203?

On a good note... the mouse works beyond great on the new bios


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slytown* 
http://www.overclock.net/intel-bios/...1203-bios.html

1203 bios

There.... it wasn't easy.... I had to search the interwebz for days but I got it for you.... where's my repz?!?!?
(pg. 312)


----------



## T0aSty

Thanks. I looked through really quick i guess i missed it (or blind). However, any one have any idea if theres some kind of fix or anything for the razer copperhead on the 1203 bios?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Here, for the first time EVER, is a photo of my setup. My wife's computer - to the right - is currently running my QX6700 while I've taken her E6750, which I'm currently running at 3.82GHz, 1.625v, 35(c)/65(c). It's hot, but it's not INSANE, right? Right?

You might notice the 42" plasma in the BG. Any comments on how to tie it to either computer for watching Netflix videos on the big screen gets REP+. You might also notice my Duvel glass. Any comments about how bad Duvel is gets REP-.

Cheers,

d


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Here, for the first time EVER, is a photo of my setup. My wife's computer - to the right - is currently running my QX6700 while I've taken her E6750, which I'm currently running at 3.82GHz, 1.625v, 35(c)/65(c). It's hot, but it's not INSANE, right? Right?

You might notice the 42" plasma in the BG. Any comments on how to tie it to either computer for watching Netflix videos on the big screen gets REP+. You might also notice my Duvel glass. Any comments about how bad Duvel is gets REP-.

Cheers,

d


are you drinking beer out of a wine glass??


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *T0aSty*


Thanks. I looked through really quick i guess i missed it (or blind). However, any one have any idea if theres some kind of fix or anything for the razer copperhead on the 1203 bios?












Dude were you the one that just repped me? I was completely joking.... oops... am I getting banned?

shhhhh..... there's nothing going on here folks... move along now...


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Here, for the first time EVER, is a photo of my setup. My wife's computer - to the right - is currently running my QX6700 while I've taken her E6750, which I'm currently running at 3.82GHz, 1.625v, 35(c)/65(c). It's hot, but it's not INSANE, right? Right?

You might notice the 42" plasma in the BG. Any comments on how to tie it to either computer for watching Netflix videos on the big screen gets REP+. You might also notice my Duvel glass. Any comments about how bad Duvel is gets REP-.

Cheers,

d


Dosto.... don't listen to him.... beer.... multiple monitors.... over-kill air cooling.... I give it a 10!

I can't wait to show you guys my setup once I finish the new desk setup!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtarmanrob*


are you drinking beer out of a wine glass??


I drink beer out of many glasses. Are you my attorney? Let me introduce you to my attorney. He's Samoan, I think. But we have bigger problems. How to figure out how to get 3.82GHz on a P5N32-E... I think you look like a lizard.

Hunter S. Thompson, RIP...


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


I drink beer out of many glasses. Are you my attorney? Let me introduce you to my attorney. He's Samoan, I think. But we have bigger problems. How to figure out how to get 3.82GHz on a P5N32-E... I think you look like a lizard.

Hunter S. Thompson, RIP...


ah yes, i've met your attorney. one of god's own prototypes. a high powered mutant of some kind, never even considered for mass production. to weird to live, to rare to die.

hahaha







my favourite movie/book. RIP Hunter S. Thompson


----------



## USlatin

Oh! hey guys! 
I got the Special edition Lanfest/Newegg Crucial sticks... 2 x 1GB DDR800

I tried 1T at 950MHz and it went through about 20% of a Memtest pass before it decided it didn't want to go on... but that was within the SPEC voltage!

I tried 1100MHz at 2T and it lasted about as long as the 950MHz 1T.

So I tried *4-4-4-12 2T 1000MHz *and found that I could pass do a full pass. So now I have that running a Prime Blend which just hit *EDIT: 10hs*. It started at 26C ambient mid-day... not bad for a new set that was *$115 shipped*... then again that's how much I got my second set of HZ's for with a promo code!

I *STILL GOT A $30 MIR* TO MAIL!!!

I didn't try to find the actual limit yet... and I may never do so. 1000MHz is plenty for my hopeful 3.8GHz and I bet they'll pull it of on the new MoBo too. I want to stay on the "uber stable with spec voltage" side this time... It feels like the 2.3V burned the D9's on the HZ's... ???

Anyway, I assume the gaming-stable limit might be at about 1050MHz or so...

Now, let's see how I fair with the Newegg RMA process for my HZ's... If I get them RMA'ed you just might see a fresh set on the For Sale section at a killer price!


----------



## esir

Hi everyone.I am new here and it my first post i found this topic when searching for to oc my sytem.I must say This topic filled useful infos thanks everyone..
I have some questions for you and heres my situation:
im pretty noob at oc







i stuck at 3 ghz
i couldnt any better but i know thats possible;whats wrong my system???
Ram? (i know these aren't best)
Bios?
or Me?









Thanks and sorry about my english..


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *esir* 
Hi everyone.I am new here and it my first post i found this topic when searching for to oc my sytem.I must say This topic filled useful infos thanks everyone..
I have some questions for you and heres my situation:
im pretty noob at oc







i stuck at 3 ghz
i couldnt any better but i know thats possible;whats wrong my system???
Ram? (i know these aren't best)
Bios?
or Me?









Thanks and sorry about my english..

your bios, what bios is it at? if its not 1203, get the 1203 bios. i think its linked just above, otherwise try the page before (312 i believe)


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

USlatin, did you consider running at 1:1 (734 according to your sig) at 3-3-3-9-1T? It might work out better than running at 1000 or 1050 at 2T (depending on the read/write/copy benches).

Esir, what are your voltages?


----------



## esir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Esir, what are your voltages?


CPU:1,25
N.Bridge:1,35
S.Bridge:1,55
HT:1,35
Ram:1.87


----------



## Dunxy

First post so hi everyone.

MEGA thank you to Robilar for making this thread, it helped me immensly when i first got this new mobo a couple of months back.Without it i would have either fried this board or thrown it at the wall! This is my 1st real oc,and with the help of this thread i have been able to get it running very nice, without even asking questions.

If i could figure out how to rep i would....

I have been running my e6850 @ 3.6 for many weeks now, nice and stable (tested 28 hours orthos blend ) I started of with only aftermarket CPU cooling, and i was able to keep the NB happy with a antec spot cool sitting right ontop of it.I think it would have been a problem come the warmer days.I have since upgraded to HR-05 on the NB, and custom VRM cooling.I was never able to push above 3.6 stable with stock NB cooler,should be able to go a bit further now though i dare say.

I have some questions, i have read every page of this thread (im not kidding) and i notice a lot of people seem to be putting faith in different programs to monitor real vcore.
I get a big differance between what is shown in windows in differant programs.

I know nvidia monitor just reports as it is set in the bios 1.4437
Pc probe reports 1.44 unloaded and it (drops or droops?) to 1.41 under load
Speedfan is showing 1.36 unloaded- 1.33 loaded
Cpuz 1.296 unloaded-same loaded
everest 1.44 unloaded 1.41 load

Im guessing the 1.44 to 1.41 is the correct voltage.But i have noticed others relying on the other lower reporting programs.

I saw it asked many pages ago,but no answer was provided.Were to take vcore measurement on the mobo itself? I have a high quality digital multimeter, i really want to know the real number.

Ive never seen my cpu go above 53c, thats under orthos blend +browsing,mp3 and voip, with a high room temp of about 27c.I run ac so i normally keep my room @ 20c.

@USlatin
After seeing your avatar so much while reading this thread for so long, curiosity has got the better of me.What is the cam? I was brought up around film cameras all my life, so i have more than average interest in them is all.


----------



## USlatin

Hello new guys!!! Nice Avatar Esir... frogs keep the mean people away!









Dosto, yea... I looked more into it and it all quickly came back to me... but that's just it... I dunno which would yield the bigger bandwidth... uber tight timings with a 1:1 at hopefully 845 from the 9 * 423 if I get the 3.8GHz I want...

do you guys know?


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Hello new guys!!! Nice Avatar Esir... frogs keep the mean people away!









Dosto, yea... I looked more into it and it all quickly came back to me... but that's just it... I dunno which would yield the bigger bandwidth... uber tight timings with a 1:1 at hopefully 845 from the 9 * 423 if I get the 3.8GHz I want...

do you guys know?


i notice that tighter timings seem to score much better than loose timings/higher clocks. is that what you mean?

heres something weird, @ 4-4-4-6-1T timing 900mhz, my CPU score goes down exactly 100 points every time, compared to benching at 4-4-4-10-1T 900mhz. shouldnt tighter = faster?


----------



## Litlratt

I consider Sandra, Everest and the pi benches to be the best for bandwidth and latency testing RAM.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Attached are my latest timings benchmarks on my E6750. It is remarkable how much more bandwidth I got on it compared to the QX6700 (which I'm switching back to this weekend... I feel naked with only two cores). Note that all but one reading is 4GB.

On an unrelated note, I am going to replace my on-board sound card this afternoon (EDT) so I can next-day it for the weekend. If anyone wants to weigh-in with a recommendation before then, I'd really appreciate it. I use (Sennheiser audiophile) headphones for gaming & only have 2.1 for mu-zak. Right now, I'm leaning towards the Fatal1ty Gamer because it has a picture of BioShock next to it on creative.com & that's my current obsession.

**EDIT: For the RAM timings, I always use a tRC of CAS+tRAS+1. All other advanced timings are left on AUTO.


----------



## Litlratt

When serious, remove the 3rd and 4th stick.


----------



## USlatin

I get 9322/2296/53.0 on Everest read write and latency benches with the current 4-4-4-12-2T 1000MHz... but I am confused as to what to try next...

if I want to get a 1:1 divider... then I need to link the ram and set the divider to 1:1... but then is it going to run the RAM to myQFSB? which for my current 3.26 is only 1450... or will it be running at half that? it really runs at only half then I can do it cause it would only be 725... and at 3.6 it would be only 800... 3.8 only 844... all attainable and with real low timings...

so my question is... when I set to 1:1... what does the number in the BIOS (which will be the same as the FSB number we work with 4 x FSB) equate to in DDR?

EDIT:
Dosto, on your top dog run with the G. Skills (which should be the same as the Lanfest) you have them running at 950 but only with 5-5-5-15-2T... I am sure you can run them at at least 4-4-4-12-2T but could push them to 5-5-5-15-1T or 3-3-3-5-2T if you get lucky maybe slightly higher than that... have you tried? What voltage are you using?

From your data I guess when you set the RAM to 1:1 and say you run 3.26GHz then you would have an FSB of 363 so on your table you'd have 363 363 726 so I think I figured out what the BIOS numbers mean... if I linked right now I would be running my RAM at 726 so I could go for 3-3-3-5-2T... right?


----------



## Litlratt

You don't have to set it to 1:1.
Unlinked and 2X fsb or 1/2 QDR newbie.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

In BIOS, it shows the "double-pumped" speed. That is, if you want PC2-8500 speeds, you would put in 1066 (which would show as 533 in CPU-Z, for example). This is consistent with putting the "quad-pumped" speed into FSB. Personally, I NEVER link the RAM as setting 1:1 gives you an actual 1:2... eg, 1066 = 266 FSB (quad-pumped), but 1066 = 533 RAM (double-pumped). That's when you break out your calculator to figure out what ratio you want if something other than 1:1.

Lilratt, why can't I be serious with 4GB? You hurt my feelings.

Just kidding. Any advice for my sound card?


----------



## USlatin

did you just call me a Noob??? I'd slap ur old ass in the back of the head if I lived close to you...

seriously though you guys are confusing me...







stop trying to show of at my expense and lay it out for me... though if you look at my edit I think I got it

X-Fi Dosto.... then have it modded by DJ Bear, though I think he lives abroad... still worth it for gaming...

EDIT: now I get what you were saying Ratt.... you were saying how to figure out the DDR speed from the QDR whihc is the number in the BIOS.... yea... I get it...
BTW I'll never forgive you for calling me a n00b... :crying:


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


(SNIP!)
From your data I guess when you set the RAM to 1:1 and say you run 3.26GHz then you would have an FSB of 363 so on your table you'd have 363 363 726 so I think I figured out what the BIOS numbers mean... if I linked right now I would be running my RAM at 726 so I could go for 3-3-3-5-2T... right?


If by "link", you mean running 1:1, then you would run your RAM at 726 if your FSB was 363 (1452 in BIOS). Since this is lower than the PC2-6400 speeds of your Lanfest, yes you might be able to tighten your timings to those speeds (although you might not get tRAS of 5). The important thing is that you don't actually select "linked" in BIOS, as I tried to explain above.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


In BIOS, it shows the "double-pumped" speed. That is, if you want PC2-8500 speeds, you would put in 1066 (which would show as 533 in CPU-Z, for example). This is consistent with putting the "quad-pumped" speed into FSB. Personally, I NEVER link the RAM as setting 1:1 gives you an actual 1:2... eg, 1066 = 266 FSB (quad-pumped), but 1066 = 533 RAM (double-pumped). That's when you break out your calculator to figure out what ratio you want if something other than 1:1.

Lilratt, why can't I be serious with 4GB? You hurt my feelings.


2 Gb will perform better than 4 Gb when you're benching for score.

Quote:



Just kidding. Any advice for my sound card?


There's a thread in the audio section regarding an inexpensive mod for the X-Fis that you'd probably be interested in.
http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards...will-void.html


----------



## Litlratt

newbie does not = noob


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


newbie does not = noob


I am still crying... where is my pat on my shoulder?
hehehe

so I still don't get it I guess. cause I tried all of these and didn't even get though post!

3-3-3-5-1T
4-4-4-12-1T
3-3-3-5-2T

how do I set 1:1?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Maybe you should try to get them to post at reference first (4-4-4-12-2T at 2.2v).

According to your sig (367FSB), you have 1468 set in BIOS for FSB, so in RAM you will set 734, leaving it UNLINKED. This will give you 1:1 because 1468/4=367 FSB and 734/2=367 RAM.

**EDIT: Lilratt, that link is making me nervous. I don't think I have the skills for that, but thanks all the same! +REP! Is this the one I should get? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16829102014 I like it because my current front output jacks are... jacked...

**EDIT 2: That has been purchased. I now must wait patiently and hope NewEgg ships it by COB.


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I am still crying... where is my pat on my shoulder?
hehehe

so I still don't get it I guess. cause I tried all of these and didn't even get though post!

3-3-3-5-1T
4-4-4-12-1T
3-3-3-5-2T

how do I set 1:1?


If u'r looking for tight timings, set memory @ 734 with timings @ 3-Auto-A-A-A, and try to get it stable with voltages (MEM, NB, HT), then start tightening your other delays. Good luck


----------



## USlatin

Dosto... I talked to DJ Bear and he will do the mod, but I don't remember where he lives... it might be pricy.... but it is worth it... get an Extreme Music or Extreme Gamer and them ask him.... well worth.

Ratt, thanks for your time! Dosto same! Rep+ for both obviously!

I did a full pass at 3-3-3-9-1T 726MHz with 2.2Vdim

the numbers got better...
9322 to 9430
2296 to 2561
53.0 to 50.7

a 1M of 15.672

But I still have to run Prime... lets hope there is a bit of stable performance to be had! even if only this much...
Then I gotta set the CPU back to 3.3GHz and see if the RAM timings hold up... I hope so, that should be a nice tiny little boost if they do... then when I get the ABIT I will have to do it all over again, but now I get it!

Reppage++++


----------



## USlatin

I am sad to say that my temporary OC will be 4-4-4-12-2T 1000MHz anyway because one of the cores stopped at 19 minutes with 3-3-3-9-1T 726MHz...









it seems there isn't no more performance to be had from the RAM (not much anyway) so off to ABIT-land I must go... but I'll be back for the newer boards ASUS FTW (unless your board pukes and pees on itself







)

This means that instead of the better 15.672 sec 1M I was hoping would be stable I am now going to be running at 15.718 sec... not a big deal but worth trying... I'll put more time into it when I OC at the 3.6GHz level... (or hopefully 3.8!







)


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Maybe you can up the voltage a teeny bit... I run my G.Skills at 2.15, which is .05 over reference.

DJ.BigBear is in Indonesia! Yikes... the FedEx fees alone! I will have to see how bad the sound is first... I think NewEgg got it shipped off already. Preferred account = FTW!

Thanks anyway for the referral! REP+


----------



## t4ct1c47

Hi all,

I upgraded to 4GB of RAM today, and ended up purchasing a matched pair of the exact same XMS2 PC6400 Cas5 DIMM's I've been useing since September 2006. Anyway, the point of my post is to point out a little issue I overcame when I first installed them. My older DIMM's were in slots A1 and B1, and seeing as the new DIMM's were the same speed, timeings, and brand, I thought there would be no problems putting them into the vacant A2 and B2 slots. At first my system wouldn't even post and at this point I thought that my overclock settings weren't right for 4GB of RAM, so to be on the safe side I reverted all BIOS settings to default. After making the changes in my BIOS, I did manage to POST but I'd get a BSOD as Windows tried to boot.

At this point I thought that I may have purchased a set of faulty DIMM's and was about to break out the floppy drive to run memtest86+ when I suddenly thought to try switching the DIMM's around, even though they were all the same spec. I put my new DIMM's into slots A1 and A2, and my older pair into B1 and B2. My system booted and has been running fine since. Moral of the story? Make sure you never overlook basic troubleshooting methods, even when dealing with DIMM's of the exact same spec.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hi. An interesting quad OC story:

During my lunch break (I took an extra-long one), I installed a Zalman 9700 onto my wife's computer & decided to switch back to my QX6700 (I had been playing with her E6750 for about a week).

Previously, I had not been able to transcend the 3.6 barrier on the QX6700 with either FSB or multi no matter how high vCore was. But, I had no problem blasting through 3.8GHz on the E6750, largely by following Robilar's suggestion to overvolt the NB to 1.45 when going over 400FSB.

Today - after I had switched back to my QX6700 - I smashed through my previous wall, and am currently running a very handsome 3.67 using 11x333. The reason? I think it's because I forgot to switch the NB back to 1.40 (I was in a rush to get back to work).

I know those of you with G0 quads with locked multis are wondering why this might apply to you, but if you think about how much more a quad would drain off the NB than a C2D at the same FSB, you might consider that overvolting the NB would be a good idea.

That's the reason I've been running my QX6700 at 3.52 until today, and I attach the proof. I offer no guarantee of the stability, but I have - until now - not been able to POST, let alone boot to Vista - with anything approaching 3.6, even with vCore cranked through the roof.

Disregard the CPU-Z vCore. My actual is 1.4875.

Cheers,

d

***EDIT: I haven't Orthos'ed it yet, but I did manage to squeeze out a quick 3dm... it's in my sig & I think I'm SO close to 14000, it would be a shame not to try & get there. I'd be on-par with some SLI'ed 8800s if I pulled that one off! New validated CPU-Z in my sig, too for informational purposes.

***EDIT 2: 2 hrs Orthos stable at 3.67! I do not want anything more out of this beast... if only two hours more, I will be square... or quad... or something...


----------



## tekkah

Hi everyone,

I've been following this thread for quite some time now, to find hints and answers to my problems.

I have been trying to break my own little 3.0ghz wall for quite some time now. But for now, the only combo that seems stable is 3 Ghz with 5:4 Linked so my mem runs @ 1066mhz

I was able to get 5-5-5-12 2T on my OCZ Reapers PC8500, but thats about it. As soon as i change my FSB higher than 1334, my system gets unstable.

I also tried mem unlinked, mem @ 1066 and raising the FSB, again unstable over 3.0ghz

My voltages are:
1.48
2.10
1.35
1.50
1.50
1.55

Anyone got some hints.. i think im missing something with the whole mem thing.. Linked, Unlined, Synced.. etc..

U can check my system specs below.

Grats to everyone who seems to be more succesful than me, i've seen some nice OC's here


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tekkah*


Hi everyone,

I've been following this thread for quite some time now, to find hints and answers to my problems.

I have been trying to break my own little 3.0ghz wall for quite some time now. But for now, the only combo that seems stable is 3 Ghz with 5:4 Linked so my mem runs @ 1066mhz

I was able to get 5-5-5-12 2T on my OCZ Reapers PC8500, but thats about it. As soon as i change my FSB higher than 1334, my system gets unstable.

I also tried mem unlinked, mem @ 1066 and raising the FSB, again unstable over 3.0ghz

My voltages are:
1.48
2.10
1.35
1.50
1.50
1.55

Anyone got some hints.. i think im missing something with the whole mem thing.. Linked, Unlined, Synced.. etc..

U can check my system specs below.

Grats to everyone who seems to be more succesful than me, i've seen some nice OC's here










Try to set you'r memory @ 960 or 940 unlinked and 2.17,timmings go like this,4 4 4 12 1T.
[email protected]
[email protected]
I have the same memory and that's my settings.Hope it help.


----------



## USlatin

Dosto.... USPS is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay cheaper for international shipping!









I suspect somewhere around $20-25!

Start off by purchasing an X-Fi from the Egg... and also don't do the mod unless you have a decent-great-spectacular set of speakers...

but if all above is satisfied, GO FOR IT!

50% of all you feel when you watch a movie is initiated by sound!
in games there is a big chunk of the pie associated with your imput and success-failure.... but the visual to audio ratio remains.... 50 - 50

not 60 - 40... not 51 - 49.... *50-50*


----------



## tekkah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Try to set you'r memory @ 960 or 940 unlinked and 2.17,timmings go like this,4 4 4 12 1T.
[email protected]
[email protected]
I have the same memory and that's my settings.Hope it help.


Thanks for the reply !
Thats probably the part that i don't understand.. Is clocking your memory down to 9xx essential to get a higher fsb on your cpu? If so, then i got some work to do since i never tried it, and always left my mem running at standard stock mhz, never lower than that...


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hi, Tekkah. My recommendation at your current FSB (333, right?) is to bring the memory down to 1:1 and then to clock from there. That would mean (assuming 333 FSB) to put memory at 667 (333.3*2). Start at stock timings, but because you have PC2-8500s, you can probably bench 1:1 at 3-3-3-9-1T. Check your read/write/copy speeds and then try again at 1000 RAM clock, which should be 3:2; you'll need to open up to probably 5-5-5-15-2T to begin with, but you might be able to squeeze it into 4-4-4-12-2T. Always try to tighten tRC as low as possible (CAS + tRAS + 1 is my guideline) and leave the other advanced timings at AUTO.

Totally off-topic, but I installed my X-Fi Platinum today! Photos in my sig. I'm going to attach one anyway for the fun of it. I did a case mod so my wondrous Sennheisers can be easily connected!

***EDIT: I'm not normally one for product stickers, but this one matched nicely with the gaping hole I created & I think "people" (I don't get visitors, but if I did) would understand better why my case is defaced... (hey, that rhymes!).

***EDIT 2: My case looks like Darth Vader now. I'm kind of scared.


----------



## USlatin

^ hahahha what a nice waste of money









Not really a waste but a luxury... I am going directly into the sound card with a mixer and wouldn't want that thing in between but MAN that is nice! it looks cool and it must be really handy... love it!

The sticker does fit nicely... and that is coming from an other sticker un-friendly guy.

On Topic:
Guys... I think I may have a buyer for my MoBo... now don't cry... i will visit you guys from time to time... heheh...
It looks like my mobo will go bask on the Mediterranean sun in the Island Nation of Malta... MAN! My board is going to heaven! Did it die?!?!?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I hope it works out for you. If you need a buyer for your NB Noctua, I'd be all over that (hot, hot, hot right now at 1.45).

***EDIT: Not a waste of money because my case front out jacks were jacked. I ONLY use my headphones for gaming (must consider wife/dogs), so that is the most important thing.


----------



## USlatin

maybe... sure... I was told the ABIT needs nothing more than some airflow over the existing cooling which scares me... but if it is so it might simplify things and I'd be selling it and the Evercool... I'll let you guys know and you have dibs on it... did you know I lapped it?


----------



## jtsin67

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tekkah*


Hi everyone,

I've been following this thread for quite some time now, to find hints and answers to my problems.

I have been trying to break my own little 3.0ghz wall for quite some time now. But for now, the only combo that seems stable is 3 Ghz with 5:4 Linked so my mem runs @ 1066mhz

I was able to get 5-5-5-12 2T on my OCZ Reapers PC8500, but thats about it. As soon as i change my FSB higher than 1334, my system gets unstable.

I also tried mem unlinked, mem @ 1066 and raising the FSB, again unstable over 3.0ghz

My voltages are:
1.48
2.10
1.35
1.50
1.50
1.55

Anyone got some hints.. i think im missing something with the whole mem thing.. Linked, Unlined, Synced.. etc..

U can check my system specs below.

Grats to everyone who seems to be more succesful than me, i've seen some nice OC's here










Hi Tekkah,
My setup is similar, q6600 and OCZ 6400 reapers. 700W PSU, Raptor and another HDD, Zalman 9700 coooler. Two trusty XFX 7800GT's in SLi.
I run FSB at 347 so 1390 in BIOS, 900 for the memory and unlinked. Careful when you play with the Asus booster it somehow resets to linked.
My voltages are 1.35 for CPU, 1.4 NB, 1.5 SB, 1.55VTT and 2.15 for the memory. 
All the usual settings folks on this forum have recommended, so most things disabled, and i set my memory manually per the SPD (4/4/4/15/2t) with the rest to auto.
Check your PSU also. I started off using the 1.5 for CPU but can drop it under 1.3 to keep temps under 20C when i am not pushing the box.
I run pretty comfy at this setup, 3125 or so and seems to keep temps under check.
Good luck, if you need detailed PM me i will spell out the exact settings.


----------



## tekkah

Hi guys,

Thanks for all the info!

My system is currently offline, i ordered 2 x Extreme Spirits II for the N & S bridges, and some paste. Those bridges really get hot!

Im still kinda new to the whole mem timings thing, especially with the Mhz'z. The timings i do understand.

So, correct me if i'm wrong. If i set my FSB at ...let's say 1400, i should set my mem mhz to 667 on 3:2 ?

I.E.

Is there a setting for my mem MHZ to put it on, so i can just raise the FSB of the CPU from that point till it reaches its max?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

When you're trying to OC your CPU, it's best to leave the RAM at loose timings and at 1:1. In the BIOS, you will want to set FSB/RAM UNLINKED and type in the desired FSB value. 1400 actually means 350 FSB because it's quad-pumped. So, you would put into RAM 700 for 1:1 (DDR2 is double-pumped). Once you have a stable CPU OC, then you can start OCing the RAM, but you might find that you're faster at 1:1 than at 3:2. Just make sure to keep benchmarking after every bump.


----------



## slytown

I'm having trouble getting my northbridge off. Any help? I remember someone put up a video of them applying thermal paste to their NB and SB, and then they installed a Tuniq. Anyone know who's video that was?

Also, can I take off the thermal pads on the other parts connected to the heatpipes and apply paste to those 5 little square pieces on each of them?


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slytown* 
I'm having trouble getting my northbridge off. Any help? I remember someone put up a video of them applying thermal paste to their NB and SB, and then they installed a Tuniq. Anyone know who's video that was?

Also, can I take off the thermal pads on the other parts connected to the heatpipes and apply paste to those 5 little square pieces on each of them?

It was USlatin, video is in his sig.

You'll still need thermal pads, 'cause height of the mosfets varies + board isn't straight, rather potato-chipped. I use T-pli 260, doubt that you can get it easily. Arctic Cooling sells some pads on ebay for cents + check Newegg.


----------



## Mmmm~

problems with my damn board... just before im about to finish modding my case for watercooling. All the sudden today windows kept popping up a "display driver stopped ....... " message so i thought it was my 8800. 2 hours ago i restart my computer and my computer wont even turn on. With some fiddling around i find out that one of my sticks of ram is dead and the 2 blue slots of the ram dont work (tested with a different set of ram). Then i try to save settings & exit in bios then it just stops on a black screen (retried a few times all with same results). Then my OC profiles werent there any more and i cant save any either. So im RMAing the board.

Anyone RMA anything w/ asus before?? Share your experiences please







, i might just switch to a striker(and get the insurance thigny from newegg if that still exists) if RMAing is that bad.


----------



## USlatin

I did but straight to Newegg so actually I guess I havent... it sounds like you r going straight to them

I remember something about certain sticks not liking certain slots and vice versa... so while not something that should change your desition to RMA, there is a possibility that a third pair of sticks would work on the blue slots... ?

I think I fried one stick of G. Skill on m board by feeding them 2.3V... only once before have I heard of 2.3V damaging HZ's

other than that, everything else points to this board being just short of briliant with memory

personally I'd RMA the board if you just got it, and then check those sticks out with the new board but some of the guys might have better advice and/or info on this


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mmmm~* 
problems with my damn board... just before im about to finish modding my case for watercooling. All the sudden today windows kept popping up a "display driver stopped ....... " message so i thought it was my 8800. 2 hours ago i restart my computer and my computer wont even turn on. With some fiddling around i find out that one of my sticks of ram is dead and the 2 blue slots of the ram dont work (tested with a different set of ram). Then i try to save settings & exit in bios then it just stops on a black screen (retried a few times all with same results). Then my OC profiles werent there any more and i cant save any either. So im RMAing the board.

Anyone RMA anything w/ asus before?? Share your experiences please







, i might just switch to a striker(and get the insurance thigny from newegg if that still exists) if RMAing is that bad.

My experience was painless. I can't remember exactly, But I think it was less than 10 days total.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mmmm~* 
problems with my damn board... just before im about to finish modding my case for watercooling. All the sudden today windows kept popping up a "display driver stopped ....... " message so i thought it was my 8800. 2 hours ago i restart my computer and my computer wont even turn on. With some fiddling around i find out that one of my sticks of ram is dead and the 2 blue slots of the ram dont work (tested with a different set of ram). Then i try to save settings & exit in bios then it just stops on a black screen (retried a few times all with same results). Then my OC profiles werent there any more and i cant save any either. So im RMAing the board.

Anyone RMA anything w/ asus before?? Share your experiences please







, i might just switch to a striker(and get the insurance thigny from newegg if that still exists) if RMAing is that bad.

It work?If not sry heard that.But can be many factors that you board don't boot.Like how and where you installed all you'r hardware.Carpet,floor,work bench?Unistall all the hardware and start all over again.Try to boot without memory?I have this board for a long long time and so far still strong without problems.I think sometimes most of the people problems,are how they install the hardware.Hope you go it goin,if not post an up date and we help you.But if you post some like im goin to rma then go for it.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mmmm~* 
(SNIP!) "display driver stopped ....... " (SNIP!)

Just in case you're talking about the "nvlddmkm stopped responding and has recovered" error in Vista, that is a separate issue (probably) unrelated to your mobo. If that's what you're talking about, let me know & I can try to help you out with that. No harm in RMAing the board anyway, though... unless they give you one that's DOA!


----------



## slytown

Windows isn't booting for my oc on this board. Any help?

Specs:
Disabled everything (Robilar suggestion)
used auto voltages (RAM at 2.1 of course) - tried recommended and didn't work also
set VTT to 1.55v
1:1 ratio with auto time settings - tried 4448 and 1T, but no go
tried 375 FSB to start on, with 8x (typed in 1500)
kept default system clocks


----------



## USlatin

shouldn't you try 4-4-4-12 instead of 8?


----------



## novastar

hi

i just had orthos going and after 2h and 10 my system froze on me. What could be the coursing my system to freeze like that.

voltages in bios are, 
vcore - 1.43
memory - 1.90
1.2v ht - 1.30
NB core - 1.40
SB core - 1.50
CPU VTT - 1.55
here is a clip of my desktop


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Maybe your RAM. Why is it overvolted to 1.9 when reference is 1.8 while you are underclocking it?


----------



## novastar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Maybe your RAM. Why is it overvolted to 1.9 when reference is 1.8 while you are underclocking it?


so shoud i keep it at 1.8 then.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

If they work fine at 1.8, there's no reason to turn it up. .1v on RAM is a lot. Most RAM aren't rated to run beyond spec. Even on most performance RAM, the warranty is voided with anything above a .05 increase.

DDR2 is dirt cheap right now, and I think your system would benefit from at least some PC2-6400s, IMHO...


----------



## novastar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
If they work fine at 1.8, there's no reason to turn it up. .1v on RAM is a lot. Most RAM aren't rated to run beyond spec. Even on most performance RAM, the warranty is voided with anything above a .05 increase.

DDR2 is dirt cheap right now, and I think your system would benefit from at least some PC2-6400s, IMHO...

ok thank


----------



## slytown

Ok, I tried 44412 2T and 1T, with a lower 1400 FSB. When I changed the memory I got a constant beep from the board.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

What RAM speed are you using?


----------



## slytown

I tried 1:1 and 5:4 on 1400.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slytown* 
I tried 1:1 and 5:4 on 1400.

I've had better results running unlinked and setting ram speed myself.


----------



## slytown

Nevermind. I got it. The RAM speed was too high. Thanks guys.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Yes. Unlinking is essential. I don't know if it's a flaw or what, but BIOS doesn't actually set 1:1 on my board when I select 1:1. It actually selects 2:1!

If you're running 1400 (quad-pumped, so 350 actual) on the FSB, you type in 700 into RAM for 1:1 (double-pumped, so 350 actual). Until you have a stable processor OC, keep 1:1 by changing RAM whenever you change FSB and leave the timings at reference (probably 5-5-5-15-2) and the voltage at rated (NOT AUTO!). When you're stable, start brining the timings in OR raising the speed. Bench, torture, & repeat with tighter timings/higher speed until you're no longer stable.

Work is so boring today & it's only Monday...


----------



## slytown

Take this job and shove it!

Yeah, I had typed in 2x FSB before instead to keep it close to 800 of the RAM. When I upped it to 1400 I forgot I had to unlink and bring the RAM back down. Woops! Don't drink and overclock.


----------



## Litlratt

With the little board that couldn't

20,068


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


With the little board that couldn't

20,068


Congrats! Nice score. Are you running SLI? Futuremark says NO, but your sig - YES?!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundlebr*


Congrats! Nice score. Are you running SLI? Futuremark says NO, but your sig - YES?!


Yes.
FM doesn't consider multiplier also. It thinks an 8 X 450 fsb is 4050. That run was at 9 X.


----------



## USlatin

Did you hear that? The glass shattering and falling to the ground?

Sounds sweet!

Congrats Ratt!

4GHz club, check!
20k 3Dmark club, check!


----------



## USlatin

. . . . .







.

My puter wouldn't boot.... till I set all to default!

I was just re-starting and switching HDDs... (disconnecting one and connecting the other) and then I couldn't get it into Windows with either installation in either HDD...

Did I finally kill my NB?

Should I RMA, sell then switch to the ABIT now


----------



## Robilar

you didnt get a spark from carpet or something?


----------



## USlatin

Robilar! Just the guy I was hoping to see! THNKS a mill 4 being online, lol

Spark... dunno... but it's been horribly dry... and I constantl'y shock everything...

developments:
I tried booting up with my profile after getting in with the defaults... but I did change one thing... I lowered the NB by 0.05V as I never got to find my lowest NB volts since I got the new RAM and I thought maybe the board was complaining about the abuse... (sometimes you guys pointed out better stability and such with lower than what you had tried before)

I now have the NB set to 1.5V


----------



## Robilar

that should only cause issues if your cpu is overclocked, if everything is back at default it should be fine with auto nb.

if you are running your oc back up on your chip, then you will need to increase the nb voltage again. the q6600 as we know isn;t fond of overclocking on this board and only with high nb voltage can you sustain what you have gotten thus far.

side note, i was able to get 3.94 ghz stable with my chip using my thermalright ultra 120e (after I got it laser lapped). I had to switch it out as the silverstone fan I had on it puked. Gonna have to find another high rpm fan.

if you intend to stay with the Q6600 and don't intend sli, then a board switch is probably a good idea. I love this board with C2D;s but even I have had some serious issues on a quad build with it recently.

Any of the P35 boards with give you a much higher stable OC with a Q6600, you do sacrifice sli of course.


----------



## USlatin

I am ran 30min PrimeBlend with 1.5V which is what others needed for equal OC's ... I will play some BF2142 now and let it run P-Blend overnight

Question... does it seem like it might have been static? and if so what does it do to the system?

Why is it working again?

I am 99% set on switching ot the ABIT...I won't SLI... and I need stability up the wazooo so I should go with the boards this chip is meant for


----------



## Robilar

i agree and static will gradually discharge out of a board after it is zapped (unless you actually cooked something).

I'm actually upgrading my kids computer and going with the Abit IP35-E which is apparently a monster budget board.


----------



## USlatin

DUDE!!!! I AM SOOOOO the L337ZOR cause Robilar will still have the same board as I... that is so cool!

Well for all others here that consider doing the same... the ABIT is a record breaker... rock of Gibraltar solid and only $175! Hey what CPU are you putting in their rig?

Hey when can we pwn some noobs together on COD2?

I am up for it now if you are (I need to test for stability)


----------



## slytown

Don't leave us Uslatin.









Congrats rat!


----------



## USlatin

If it makes you feel better I am bothered to say the least about having to switch... but I don't want to have ot worry about my NB temps anymore... and it is quite annoying to be limited by up to 0.5GHz on four cores... I just pray to the universe, god, math whatevers that it will go smoothly and I will find a nice place where I can leave my BIOS set to and foghetdaboudih... But it feel like this is my crew... plus (shhhhhh) the IP32 Pro guys sound really boring, lol!!!

anyone notice my new rig name?


----------



## slytown

I did. Too much math for me to handle.

I wanted to ask, how to unlock my multiplier? When I tried upping it to 9x it wouldn't stay.


----------



## USlatin

the x9 is locked by Intel... the CPU won't let you... unless you has an X chip


----------



## Murlocke

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


I did. Too much math for me to handle.

I wanted to ask, how to unlock my multiplier? When I tried upping it to 9x it wouldn't stay.


You can't only extreme chips have unlocked multipliers and are usually much more expensive, they are either locked or unlocked when they are made at the factory. The E6750 is locked.


----------



## slytown

K. I thought I heard somewhere the 6750 was unlocked too.


----------



## USlatin

no.... but for the way they OC they might as well be lol









Hey Murlocke... hows ur rig doing with the Quad?

I am selling my board but going ABIT instead of EVGA... still not too late to try to convert me though... especially since nobory is PM'ing me about the board?!?

EVERYONE,
How much should I ask for the MoBo?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


If it makes you feel better I am bothered to say the least about having to switch... but I don't want to have ot worry about my NB temps anymore... and it is quite annoying to be limited by up to 0.5GHz on four cores... I just pray to the universe, god, math whatevers that it will go smoothly and I will find a nice place where I can leave my BIOS set to and foghetdaboudih... But it feel like this is my crew... plus (shhhhhh) the IP32 Pro guys sound really boring, lol!!!

anyone notice my new rig name?


Where you said you goin?Hope you got you rig goin uslatin.I know you always busy.Anyways we here OK.


----------



## Robilar

I'd say its worth between 140 and $150 USD considering that it still has two years of warranty. You should emphasize how good it is will dual cores though.

I just built my daughter an upgrade with the E2180 and the Abit IP35-E. I threw the chip on my board and got 3.5 ghz with a bit of fiddling around (10x 350). very stable. pretty funny that a chip that cost me $92 can do 3.5 ghz

on the abit board 3.2 is about as far as i pushed it (has a zalman 9700).

Regarding "extreme" chips, i got me one of those







its been very cooperative (recent got 3.94 with my thermalright ultra 120e). I can still be beat by some E6850's though which is a bit annoying.

Mind you the E series all have an FSB wall (which my chip doesn't) so if i ever decide to go phase, I could get back on top again.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


K. I thought I heard somewhere the 6750 was unlocked too.


You can go down, not up.


----------



## USlatin

a little bird told me our board will run at Vdim3V but might not boot at 3.4V... or whatever is the highest


----------



## t4ct1c47

Hi all,

Since I upgraded to four 1GB DIMM's I've had to lower my timings from 1T to 2T which has resulted in my RAM's performance dropping a little. That Vista experience benchmark thingy now shows my RAM as 5.7 as opposed to 5.9. Before I start faffing about in my BIOS I just thought I'd post here first for advice on what I should look into to get my DIMM's back up to 1T. I'm guessing I should just need to raise RAM and NorthBridge vCores which are both currently set to 1.9v and 1.35v respectively.

As usual, any help is appreciated.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I have tested 4x1GB (and 2x2) extensively over the last several months. I have found that 4GB does not like 3:2. I am running at 1:1 with RAM overvolted by 0.025v at 1T.

What are your timings, and what speed are you currently running at?

I'm going to guess you're running 333 (667) for a 1:1, which would make the most sense. I'm also going to guess you're running 3-3-3-9 (since you're underclocked from your PC2-6400 speed), so perhaps you could tighten tRC a little. I like to use this:

tRC = tRAS + CAS + 2

So, for 3-3-3-9, you use tRC 14. Bench and see if it helps.

If you're running RAM at PC2-6400, dial it back to 667 and try 1T with the tighter timings (including tRC) & I almost guarantee you will demolish your 800MHz 2T speeds!


----------



## USlatin

it seems I will get my HZ's replaced :crossing Fingers:


----------



## marky07

Hi everyone. Have been watching this thread with extreme interest. In fact, it was this thread that helped me decide which board to buy. I've set everything up according to recommendations on page one and although not stable under Orthos for long, I can play all my games with no trouble at all. Thanks to all for that.
Anyway, the board I had prior to this one was the P5B Deluxe WiFi-Ap which through Speedfan or Everest would show the SATA drives temps. I don't seem to be able to get this info through this board. It does show the IDE drives temps though.
I'm not a serious over-clocker but have enjoyed reading this thread and trying some of the different suggestions and ideas you've come up with.
I hope I've set everything up properly with my new membership here 
Cheers all.


----------



## Litlratt

Welcome marky, glad to have you on board.
"On board", man I crack myself up sometimes.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


I have tested 4x1GB (and 2x2) extensively over the last several months. I have found that 4GB does not like 3:2. I am running at 1:1 with RAM overvolted by 0.025v at 1T.


I'd overlooked the possibilty of differing CPU and RAM buses affecting 1T and 2T.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


What are your timings, and what speed are you currently running at?


Bing PC6400 my DIMM's are obviously 800Mhz, but their standard SPD timeings at 800Mhz are 5-5-5-12, but they are rated to run at 4-4-4-8 when at 533Mhz. I have been able to stretch the 4-4-4-8 timeings for 667Mhz in the past, after increaseing vCore to 2.1v.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


If you're running RAM at PC2-6400, dial it back to 667 and try 1T with the tighter timings (including tRC) & I almost guarantee you will demolish your 800MHz 2T speeds!


I have done a little testing in the past and it appeared to me that although 1T showed improvement over 2T, it was more benefical for me to run my RAM at as high a speed as possible. I've come to the conlcusion that this is probably down to the internal latencies of the nForce chipsets when compared to Intel's.

Either way, cheers fot reminding me to try differing RAM speeds and timeings. I was more focused on voltages at first and completely overlooked the possibilty of playing with the timeings. Rep +1


----------



## biggsy

anyone got to 3.8 or above yet, if so could u give me settings for e6600


----------



## marky07

Thanks for the welcome Litlratt, on board, love it.


----------



## tekkah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


When you're trying to OC your CPU, it's best to leave the RAM at loose timings and at 1:1. In the BIOS, you will want to set FSB/RAM UNLINKED and type in the desired FSB value. 1400 actually means 350 FSB because it's quad-pumped. So, you would put into RAM 700 for 1:1 (DDR2 is double-pumped). Once you have a stable CPU OC, then you can start OCing the RAM, but you might find that you're faster at 1:1 than at 3:2. Just make sure to keep benchmarking after every bump.


I've tried it, but windows freezes as soon as i boot into windows.

Its stable @ 1450 FSB

1500 FSB / 750 mem causes the freeze. My voltages are high enough..

I do got it stable at 1450 FSB / 950 Mhz mem now..


----------



## USlatin

Your problem is different.... Dosto has a QX... he might not have the x 9 multiplier that we are bound to with the Q6600... as far as I know 1450 is where you will get and where you want to be... maaaaaybe up to 1470 but not worth it...

You simply have the wrong MoBo for the chip...

A few have been able to get into this hole in the FSB wall, LittleRat has had much success with it.... then again nobody had done it on air as far as I know... and I am not speaking of CPU cooling but NB cooling though is is not confirmed which of the two is important, of if they are at all... for all we know they might have just gotten lucky with their boards... but I sense extreme NB cooling playing a factor in making a hole out of what might otherwise be just a crack on the wall. FYI that hole is at *8 x 1800*.

If you will not SLI and instead upgrade a single card as most people will, then consider going to an ABIT IP35 Pro together with me and Robilar's daughter (spoiled brat! lol) or if you want to SLI and want to keep this chip then go to an EVGA 680i with the new revision... those are your best bets to get all/most of what the Q6600 G0 has to offer.


----------



## slytown

Dito, do what Uslatin is doing. Darn quad cores.


----------



## tekkah

Thanks USLatin









I'll just let the 1450 for what it is then, and focus on my mem now..

1000mhz seems stable, 1066 is not with 1450 FSB.

timings stable: 5-5-5-12-2T

1T is really unstable somehow.

What are your suggestions for putting the mem on? Unlinked @ 1000mhz seems to be stable, but everyone wants to push it to the max, right?









About the NB and SB, both got Spirits II on them, i read some reviews telling me they dont cool as good as they should, but still some degrees below the stock cooling..


----------



## stefan9

Hi guys any major issues with this board and running 4 x 1 gig ram sticks . I want to add another 2 sticks of ddr 2 800 mhz team extreem pc 6400.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tekkah*


Thanks USLatin









I'll just let the 1450 for what it is then, and focus on my mem now..

1000mhz seems stable, 1066 is not with 1450 FSB.

timings stable: 5-5-5-12-2T

1T is really unstable somehow.

What are your suggestions for putting the mem on? Unlinked @ 1000mhz seems to be stable, but everyone wants to push it to the max, right?










Not necessarily, your Reapers might perform better at somewhere between 900-960 with cas4 timings at 1t as compared to cas5 at highest overclock and 2t.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stefan9*


Hi guys any major issues with this board and running 4 x 1 gig ram sticks . I want to add another 2 sticks of ddr 2 800 mhz team extreem pc 6400.


They should be fine with a 64 bit OS.


----------



## stefan9

Will it work with a 32 bit os except being limited to not being able to use all of the ram.

I have both 32 bit and 64 discs of vista home premium and could format and install 64 bit.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stefan9* 
Will it work with a 32 bit os except being limited to not being able to use all of the ram.

I have both 32 bit and 64 discs of vista home premium and could format and install 64 bit.

Yes, they will work with 32, but it's a waste.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

4GB will work on 32-bit, but you'll loose most of the last GB. 4GB max means TOTAL system memory, so everything is counted (not least, your video memory) meaning if you have a single 8800GTX, Windows will only recognize around 3.3GB. If you don't want to bother with an install now, you can operate fine on 32-bit, but plan an upcoming weekend to move to 64-bit.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Your problem is different.... Dosto has a QX... he might not have the x 9 multiplier that we are bound to with the Q6600... as far as I know 1450 is where you will get and where you want to be... maaaaaybe up to 1470 but not worth it...

You simply have the wrong MoBo for the chip...

A few have been able to get into this hole in the FSB wall, LittleRat has had much success with it.... then again nobody had done it on air as far as I know... and I am not speaking of CPU cooling but NB cooling though is is not confirmed which of the two is important, of if they are at all... for all we know they might have just gotten lucky with their boards... but I sense extreme NB cooling playing a factor in making a hole out of what might otherwise be just a crack on the wall. FYI that hole is at *8 x 1800*.

If you will not SLI and instead upgrade a single card as most people will, then consider going to an ABIT IP35 Pro together with me and Robilar's daughter (spoiled brat! lol) or if you want to SLI and want to keep this chip then go to an EVGA 680i with the new revision... those are your best bets to get all/most of what the Q6600 G0 has to offer.



US, I'm very impressed with the IP35-E btw. First run I easily hit 3 Ghz with the 2180 using a zalman 9700. Mind you I did get good ram for the board as well (crucial ballistix tracers with Micron D9's) which certainly helps. Load temps are still mid 40's C without the zalman cranked to full speed.

I'm quite certain I could go as high as 3.5 ghz on this chip (although 3 ghz was my target for my kids rig)

From what I have seen on anandtech, several users have had no difficulty hitting 9x400 with this board with a q6600 GO.

Higher is most likely a possibility.


----------



## slytown

Wow. That sounds really good Rob.


----------



## Jaimi

I'm using the 0608 bios, and I'm only able to get up to 2.7 Ghz on my Q6600 (G0) by unlinking the RAM, and setting the FSB to 1200. I've tried updating to the 1205 bios, but the updater in the BIOS refuses (says the file size is different, but I validated it looked right...). Is this normal?


----------



## USlatin

Hey guys I am having a bit of an issue...

I got my rig on the table while I mod the A900 and wait for the MoBo switcharoo to happen...

...I plug my single HDD with no RAIDs and it goes...

...I plug my single HDD that has the RAID drivers which I use for editing with two 2-HDD RAID0's and it won't get into Windows?!? I get stuck after post with the blinking cursor...
Do I have to have the RAIDs plugged in for it to boot? This can't be the answer cause I've used it without the RAID's before... did I F-it up?

...what's even more weird is that sometimes I don't even get it to the MoBo's logo screen!

I will test plugging in the RAID's...


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jaimi* 
I'm using the 0608 bios, and I'm only able to get up to 2.7 Ghz on my Q6600 (G0) by unlinking the RAM, and setting the FSB to 1200. I've tried updating to the 1205 bios, but the updater in the BIOS refuses (says the file size is different, but I validated it looked right...). Is this normal?

Hi Jaimi, welcome. Make sure you load setup defaults prior to flashing. Some here have had better luck with 1203.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Hey guys I am having a bit of an issue...

I got my rig on the table while I mod the A900 and wait for the MoBo switcharoo to happen...

...I plug my single HDD with no RAIDs and it goes...

...I plug my single HDD that has the RAID drivers which I use for editing with two 2-HDD RAID0's and it won't get into Windows?!? I get stuck after post with the blinking cursor...
Do I have to have the RAIDs plugged in for it to boot? This can't be the answer cause I've used it without the RAID's before... did I F-it up?

...what's even more weird is that sometimes I don't even get it to the MoBo's logo screen!

I will test plugging in the RAID's...


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

You guys keep really weird hours! Anyway, I added some new photos in my gallery tonight. Litlratt, yours keep coming up in the default gallery and it disturbs me. One day, maybe I will be like you.

USlatin, I'm also running in RAID. When you say you plug in one & it "goes", does that mean POST & OS? Are you on your new board or still on your P5N32? If you're getting different POST behaviour, it's probably a hardware conflict. Are you reinstalling Windows? XP or Vista?


----------



## USlatin

Ok... this is weird... but before I explain let me put you guys at ease... I can get it.

First of all.... some technical terminology that is beyond some of the less experienced posters: "goes" means that I got into Windows... LOL!!! like duh! Hahahah... sorry bout confusing you I was thinking about what was going on when I posted









So I tried to boot and in my 100th attempt I simply forgot about it and walked off... funny thing is that I came back ad it "went" lol.... it was in Windows... ?!?!?

So it seem I am getting the uber slow boot that Cyber Druid just described on his York adventures thread...

I is worried... I'ma gonna test the Drive speeds and backup to my external before I reboot!


----------



## Litlratt

Dosto, I'm sorry that you're disturbed


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Ok... this is weird... but before I explain let me put you guys at ease... I can get it.

First of all.... some technical terminology that is beyond some of the less experienced posters: "goes" means that I got into Windows... LOL!!! like duh! Hahahah... sorry bout confusing you I was thinking about what was going on when I posted









So I tried to boot and in my 100th attempt I simply forgot about it and walked off... funny thing is that I came back ad it "went" lol.... it was in Windows... ?!?!?

So it seem I am getting the uber slow boot that Cyber Druid just described on his York adventures thread...

I is worried... I'ma gonna test the Drive speeds and backup to my external before I reboot!


If you're saying that you did not reinstall the OS when you switched mobos, I can understand the problems as it's normally not a good idea when going from one chipset to another.
I tried it on a couple of different occasions without success, performance was terrible.


----------



## USlatin

oh... no no no... I am still waiting for someone to buy my P5N32-3 SL1 before I buy the ABIT... it is hard to justify just getting it when I am at 3.3 already with no problems... waaaaaait no problems? hummm... mybe this can be the excuse? lol

so, I am running the same setup, no chang3es other than the lack of case

so in 7 minutes I will have all my software backed up... all I need is a few project media and I am safe-o-matic

EDIT: I got all I need (I think, lol) and I tested the drives.... they are all pulling strong, same speeds as I first benched them at when I set them up...

I am SO confused... I hope when I try to get back I it doesn't do it anymore...


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Crysis demo is out if anyone cares:
http://www.crysisdemo.com/

Had to dial-back my resolution from 1920x1200 to 1280x800 (still full screen), but otherwise it runs pretty well. What a performance hog!


----------



## Dethredic

This is probably a really dumb question, but how to you raise the CPU FSB.

I looked everywhere and I couldn't find it..l


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dethredic* 
This is probably a really dumb question, but how to you raise the CPU FSB.

I looked everywhere and I couldn't find it..l









The information you need is on the first page of this thread.
QDR=4 X FSB


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

OCN running slow today... hmm...

I know this belongs in other threads, but since I mentioned the Crysis demo, I think I need to cover my arse, so-to-speak:

There's a new Nvidia beta driver (169.01) "recommended" (read: "required") to run Crysis smoothly. It is not overclockable, which cost me about 800 3dm points. Just a heads-up.

Happy weekend, otherwise! Me = back to Crysis demo!


----------



## USlatin

??? thanks for the link! first November release demo I download

but what's up with the beta driver? I guess it is a DX10 issue fixer release but they are mid development on it so they got like half the stuff in it? weird.... I just finally went 163 so obviously I am out of the loop... pls explain the situation


----------



## USlatin

ok so I just installed it and in XP (DX9):

at 1920x1200 I get basically the same as at 1680 x 1050... and that is about 17fps!!! ughh!!!

set all levels to medium and I go up to 30fps... it seems I need a bit higher clock. And Vista.

At medium it is playable but far from what I am used to.


----------



## tekkah

Just clocked down to 1334 FSB, 3.0ghz seems the most stable, the rest sucks somehow. Perhaps a crappy board in combination with the Q6600..

Another question, kinda off-topic.

I got 2 x Spirits II on SB and NB. Anyone got suggestions about installing another 8800 GTX in SLI?. That SB is in the way of the 2nd PCI-E slot.. Perhaps another cooler on the SB?

On and yes USLatin, i also tried the demo under XP DX9, it really is almost unplayable. Aiming is hard, just because the laggy feeling u get due to the low fps..


----------



## AusKaos

Hi this is my first time here. I have been reading this thread since about page 50. just swapped out stock cooler for nt 9700 and 2 spirits as these seem to be most popular. dam 8800 ultra gets in the way of SB. cut the heat pipes doh! 
Question running 6400 OCZ sli will they limit my max OC

Played Crysis beta. kick ass


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tekkah*


Just clocked down to 1334 FSB, 3.0ghz seems the most stable, the rest sucks somehow. Perhaps a crappy board in combination with the Q6600..

Another question, kinda off-topic.

I got 2 x Spirits II on SB and NB. Anyone got suggestions about installing another 8800 GTX in SLI?. That SB is in the way of the 2nd PCI-E slot.. Perhaps another cooler on the SB?

On and yes USLatin, i also tried the demo under XP DX9, it really is almost unplayable. Aiming is hard, just because the laggy feeling u get due to the low fps..


The Evercool on the SB works well for SLI cards. Pic in my qallery.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AusKaos*


Hi this is my first time here. I have been reading this thread since about page 50. just swapped out stock cooler for nt 9700 and 2 spirits as these seem to be most popular. dam 8800 ultra gets in the way of SB. cut the heat pipes doh! 
Question running 6400 OCZ sli will they limit my max OC

Played Crysis beta. kick ass


Welcome.

Depends on what divider you're trying to use.


----------



## AusKaos

THANkS
I was running unlinked i was more thinking how well the ram would scale
as. In Everest with stock cpu memory read was 7800mb at 3.33 its 9300mb.
So in the end would my rams ablity to scale with the cpu affect stablity.

Is Everest good enough to test system OC stablity.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

You have good RAM, so probably not. As you increase your FSB, you increase the maximum bandwidth the RAM can run at, removing a bottleneck for it. 9300 is significantly faster than 7800 (which is a bad score). I use Everest to check for stability. Make sure you're running version 4.2, which has awesome monitoring tools. They are sassy.

I can't even get past the splash screen in Crysis on the new driver! Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over? 163.69 works, but I get the occasional CTD (one that requires restart)... RivaTuner 2.06 soon = ?

**EDIT: RivaTuner 2.06 beta leaked; works with 169.01: http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/p2886020.html


----------



## tekkah

Litlratt said:


> The Evercool on the SB works well for SLI cards. Pic in my qallery.
> 
> Could u give me the full name of the SB cooler?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance


----------



## slytown

Double post. :d

How's everyone doin'?


----------



## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tekkah*


I got 2 x Spirits II on SB and NB. Anyone got suggestions about installing another 8800 GTX in SLI?. That SB is in the way of the 2nd PCI-E slot.. Perhaps another cooler on the SB?



It's supposed to fit. Look at Robs pics and see how it sits.


----------



## Litlratt

tekkah said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Litlratt*
> 
> 
> The Evercool on the SB works well for SLI cards. Pic in my qallery.
> 
> Could u give me the full name of the SB cooler?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835119080


----------



## AusKaos

Hi all.

want to run 3.4gig 24/7 got nt9700 and spirit 2 on my NB what would be some voltages to get me started.
Do I need to sort out some cooling for my SB or at this clock would it be OK.
8800ultra gets in the way of the spirit 2.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

If you don't mind voiding your warranty, you can cut the heatpipe off the stock NB heatsink you replaced and use that on the SB. Reseat it with some AS5, and you should be g2g as long as you have some good circulation around it. You can see in my system gallery how I did that exact thing to make room for the behemoth HR-03+.


----------



## AusKaos

Thanks Done deal
I cut it of all ready when i did the Nb so by by warrenty.
I need vcore 1.4250 to get 3.33 stable doses that seem excesive


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I think it depends on how your chip is binned. My E6750 needed over 1.5v to run at 3.8, which was about .1v over what most people were reporting. Litlratt apparently needed the same thing for his E6850, so maybe it isn't so odd. Just check your temperatures (Core Temp was the only thing I found reliable on my 6750); if they're good, then so are you.


----------



## KillJoy

I have a problem ...major to me, may be simple to others (I hope)...

I have followed this guide as best I can, but I'm stuck. In the Extreme Tweeker Screen, I select 'manual' , but when I go to the FSB & Memory Config Screen, everything is greyed out, and I cannot adjust anything. The ONLY settings I have been able to get my system to overclock on is the AI at 10% ...everything else I have tried puts CPU speeds back to default. I would really like to overclock manually, not alot, but more than the 10% which ups the CPU from 2.66 to 2.93 GHz. I have after market cooling (air), and I should be easily going higher.

I would greatly appreciate any and all help I can get on this ...THANKS!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

What BIOS version are you using? When AI Tuning is set to MANUAL, is EVERYthing else on that page DISABLED? Can you change anything in the OVERCLOCK page? What is "FSB-Memory Clock Mode" set to when you are on AI Tuning MANUAL? Is that grayed-out when you're on MANUAL?


----------



## tekkah

Thanks for the name of that "Chipset Cooler"







Looks O.K., one problem though.. they are not offered here in Holland.. perhaps some other cooler that looks-a-like ?

I was wondering.. i ripped off the stock cooling for the SB and NB, but some (.. i dunno what they are..) little memory chips above the CPU are opened up withou a heatsink on them, and some more on the left side of the CPU, where the heatsink of the stock SB and NB cooling was.

Is is necessary to put some heatsinks on them? I tried applying the standard VGA heatsinks on them, but the tape would not stick..

If u could give me a few suggestions, i can try to buy them over here in Holland..

Thanks very much in advance!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

These fit nicely:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835108094

I know you can't buy them from NewEgg, but there's the part number. Their tape is also really bad. Some people have used some 3M thermal tape, but I just used some Arctic Silver thermal glue. There's some pictures of the mosfet heatsinks in the first several pages of this thread, but basically just cover the ones that were underneath the stock heatsink. There's a total of eight paired mosfets.


----------



## Robilar

Yes, those are my pics. The swiftech fit exactly on the mosfets (in terms of size).

Also, since adding them to my cooling array, I haven't had any instability in the stable overclocks I attained (my best to date with an orthos run with my X6800 is 3.92 Ghz)


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Oh, yes. Sorry for not giving credit where it was due.


----------



## Robilar

NP alot of people contributed to this thread. I just started it.


----------



## tekkah

I tried to search for them on the net.

I can only buy those heatsinks on Ebay USA, unfortunately the salesman does not accept Paypal.. doh!

i do got some standard vga heatsinks from Coolermaster, u think it would work? If not, do u have an alternative for the Swif's ?

Thanks again!


----------



## trueg50

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tekkah*


I tried to search for them on the net.

I can only buy those heatsinks on Ebay USA, unfortunately the salesman does not accept Paypal.. doh!

i do got some standard vga heatsinks from Coolermaster, u think it would work? If not, do u have an alternative for the Swif's ?

Thanks again!


I bought my Thermalright HR-05 IFX 's and swiftech 'sinks from:

svc.com

Petrastechshop.com also has some good deals, however they didn't have the IFX.


----------



## jmet

Has anyone else had major issues with this board? I am now on my second board and am waiting on Asus slow RMA process.

After browsing this boards section on the Asus forums and the Newegg replies it seems I have twice now experienced the same issue many many others have had in that you shut down the pc and when you go to start it up again all the fans spin up but you get no light on the monitor or keyboard and you get no beeps at all even if you pull the ram.

Both times this happened I was using the bios built in over clocking, going the easy automatic route by setting the %. The first to 2.9ghz and this time at 3ghz. I am using the Zalman 8700 HSF and the Thermaltake Armor Series case with side cooling. I have been running bios version 1205 (latest) for since about a week before this last OC attempt.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811133021

Am I doing something wrong or are these boards simply that finicky? I ran for months after the first RMA at stock speeds just fine and now this less then two weeks after my oc as was the case last time, all temps registered well and I passed prime tests so I am at a loss here and honestly likely wont OC again or go to another board that is built more solid.

I have worked in the business for years but am new to over clocking so ask away if you will.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Tekkah, I think your heatsinks should be fine as long as they cover the VRMs. The Swiftechs work well only because they fit perfectly. Looking around other forums, it looks like people have used a variety of different methods to cover those up. Check out this picture below from the Nvidia forums.

Jmet, it seems you might have missed Robilar's stickied first post. I do not believe anyone in these 328 pages has discussed seriously the automatic overclock settings. Generally, the words "automatic" and "overclocking" are only ever used together preceding words like, "reset CMOS", "reformat", "reinstall", and "never again".


----------



## jmet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Jmet, it seems you might have missed Robilar's stickied first post. I do not believe anyone in these 328 pages has discussed seriously the automatic overclock settings. Generally, the words "automatic" and "overclocking" are only ever used together preceding words like, "reset CMOS", "reformat", "reinstall", and "never again".


I now see why, I guess I ASSumed that being a built in and advertised feature of the board that it would at least work. I bought a case and HSF with plenty of cooling abillity and figured that would be good enough.

Asus just informed me that they have no stock so I need to return the board for a repair which will take 10 days plus all shipping times. So I am now pondering the purchase of another brand or the same board to forgo me haviing to reinstall windows. In regards to performance and stabillity what might you suggest?


----------



## Robilar

I concur, the auto overclocking in the bios is crap plain and simple. I tried it when I got the board last november and had some issues. There is a fix for whats happening but you need an older generation celeron or p4. Put it in, the system will boot, flash your bios back to one of the older series (0902 is fine). Re insert your C2D and away you go. For some reason bios updating from windows and the auto overclocking feature cause the board to stop recognizing C2D chips.


----------



## jmet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


I concur, the auto overclocking in the bios is crap plain and simple. I tried it when I got the board last november and had some issues. There is a fix for whats happening but you need an older generation celeron or p4. Put it in, the system will boot, flash your bios back to one of the older series (0902 is fine). Re insert your C2D and away you go. For some reason bios updating from windows and the auto overclocking feature cause the board to stop recognizing C2D chips.



Well surprise surprise the board is now lighting. I put the jumper for clearing the cmos over on pins 2-3 and let it sit for a few hours unplugged and it now works again.

I tried this last night for short periods (as documented in the manual and per Asus tech support directions) as well as yanking the battery, even going through both steps with two different Asus techs and to their satisfaction the board was toast.

Amazing.... (I am going to put it all back together and report back.)









****EDIT****

Everything is put back together and running just fine minus the automatic over clocking.









Luckily for me I just so happened to set that jumper and then get busy with work for a few hours. Thank you all for the patience and grace with my trivial issue.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jmet* 
Well surprise surprise the board is now lighting. I put the jumper for clearing the cmos over on pins 2-3 and let it sit for a few hours unplugged and it now works again.

I tried this last night for short periods (as documented in the manual and per Asus tech support directions) as well as yanking the battery, even going through both steps with two different Asus techs and to their satisfaction the board was toast.

Amazing.... (I am going to put it all back together and report back.)









****EDIT****

Everything is put back together and running just fine minus the automatic over clocking.









Luckily for me I just so happened to set that jumper and then get busy with work for a few hours. Thank you all for the patience and grace with my trivial issue.

Congrats








Fill out your system specs here
It will be easier to help you.


----------



## KillJoy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
What BIOS version are you using? When AI Tuning is set to MANUAL, is EVERYthing else on that page DISABLED? Can you change anything in the OVERCLOCK page? What is "FSB-Memory Clock Mode" set to when you are on AI Tuning MANUAL? Is that grayed-out when you're on MANUAL?

Bios 1205 (just updated, but the same thing occured with the previous version.) When I get home, I will double check that 'everything' is disabled on that page. There must be something that locks the 'FSB & Memory Screen', so your suggestion makes sense. I have tried many combinations to hopefully sort that out, with no luck so far ...but I will try some more.

I can only change the multiplier on the 'overclock' screen, but by the guide, stock is 10, and when changed, I lose the AI OC, and still nothing is highlighted in the 'FSB & Memory Config screen'.

FSB-Memory Clock Mode is yes, greyed, and shows it as 'Unlinked'. The screen shot #3 is what I can't get to ...that whole screened is greyed out. Anyways, THANK YOU for your response, I know this must be something that is still either 'enabled' or set to auto, that is causing this screen to lock, I just wish I could figure out where, so I can proceed. Hope this additional information helps, and appreciate your help very much


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jmet*


Everything is put back together and running just fine minus the automatic over clocking.










Good! That way you are forced to OC manually









welcome!


----------



## SEXXXY-PC

Hi all, this thread has been a great inspiration and im now ready to give this a try.

Firstly my Stats

OS= XP SP2 HM
BIOS = 1103
P5N32-E SLI / E6850 3.0ghz dual core /Conroe
NVidia chipset - (CpUz says-680i SLI SPP )
SB nForce 680i SLI MCP
nTune / nForce info -(MCP v. nforce 570 SLI A2) - (SPP/IGP nForce ultra A2)
Memory RAM= 4 sticks x 1g G.skill PC2 6400 1.9v-2.0v /5-5-5-15
CASE= Thermaltake Large Armor
PSU Silverstone ST85F 850w
Cooling CPU Thermaltake BLUE ORB, 120mm
Cooling case Exhaust 3x 120mm Thermaltake, 2 smaller Exhaust also
SATA Raid H/D 600g
Triple Head 2 Go -Digital
GRAPHICS= XFX8800GTX x2 together running 4x 24" monitors (SLI NOT ENABLED
-in BIOS)

After reading everything in this thread im now a little confused. But very interesting and makes we want to quit my day job and spend all day learning how to OC pc's.

To start with I had same troubles with memory as most and have set the timmings 5-5-5-15 2T, this is the first time ever that I have gone into bios. Whilst there I moved the SB to 1.55v and the CPU VTT to 1.35v. Unlinked memory to 1333 FSB with 800mhz, rebooted and is stable but no changes in performance, so I made a few other changes like FSB 667 and memory time changes but still at 3000mhz. The only thing that changed was the Core VID which went from 1.188v to 4.78v, worried about frying something I learnt about clearing CMOS so did that and now the PC has become unstable and crashes with high end graphic programs. To go with that the PC also locks when completing the 32M memset run test and also the ntune stabilty test.

Sorry about the long winded post, but just need help with what the key things are that i need in place first and slow steps to achieving an averge OC that will suit my cooling. Can you also tell me how to have my two cards properly set up, i reckon there is something not quite right.

Thanks in advance

Marcus


----------



## TomasFX

Litlratt

can you please post here your bios settings with q6600 ...
I try all, but 3.3 Ghz is best with this cpu
Did you make MB mood ( resistor ) ?

also I see you manage to get 4Ghz with E6850
Is it stable ? because if is, I will buy it


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Marcus / Sexxxxy-PC:

What procedure are you using to clear the CMOS?

After you clear it, are you going into BIOS and loading startup defaults? If not, you should do that. Then, re-enable all your SATA/RAID, reset the clock and you should be g2g.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TomasFX*


Litlratt

can you please post here your bios settings with q6600 ...
I try all, but 3.3 Ghz is best with this cpu
Did you make MB mood ( resistor ) ?

also I see you manage to get 4Ghz with E6850
Is it stable ? because if is, I will buy it










Hi Tomas, welcome.
vcore 1.43125
1.2 vht 1.3
nb 1.5
sb 1.6
cpu vtt 1.55
qdr 1800
multiplier 8X
My 3.6 with the quad is 24 hours Orthos stable. Screenshot in my gallery. I was also able to hit 4050 
with it and run a few benches. That was with a 9X multiplier.
Yes I did the pencil mod to reduce the vdroop, not eliminate it. Some vcore settings will display vdroop, others won't.
My 6850 was Windows stable, but not Orthos stable. I ran it for a few weeks error free in Windows prior to getting the quad. The highest I was able to get it was 
4195.5. 
Realize that your mileage may vary.
I'm currently testing one of the EVGA 680i A1 boards at 3.82 with the quad. It too is Windows stable but not Orthos.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SEXXXY-PC*


Hi all, this thread has been a great inspiration and im now ready to give this a try.

Firstly my Stats

OS= XP SP2 HM
BIOS = 1103
P5N32-E SLI / E6850 3.0ghz dual core /Conroe
NVidia chipset - (CpUz says-680i SLI SPP )
SB nForce 680i SLI MCP
nTune / nForce info -(MCP v. nforce 570 SLI A2) - (SPP/IGP nForce ultra A2)
Memory RAM= 4 sticks x 1g G.skill PC2 6400 1.9v-2.0v /5-5-5-15
CASE= Thermaltake Large Armor
PSU Silverstone ST85F 850w
Cooling CPU Thermaltake BLUE ORB, 120mm
Cooling case Exhaust 3x 120mm Thermaltake, 2 smaller Exhaust also
SATA Raid H/D 600g
Triple Head 2 Go -Digital
GRAPHICS= XFX8800GTX x2 together running 4x 24" monitors (SLI NOT ENABLED
-in BIOS)

After reading everything in this thread im now a little confused. But very interesting and makes we want to quit my day job and spend all day learning how to OC pc's.

To start with I had same troubles with memory as most and have set the timmings 5-5-5-15 2T, this is the first time ever that I have gone into bios. Whilst there I moved the SB to 1.55v and the CPU VTT to 1.35v. Unlinked memory to 1333 FSB with 800mhz, rebooted and is stable but no changes in performance, so I made a few other changes like FSB 667 and memory time changes but still at 3000mhz. The only thing that changed was the Core VID which went from 1.188v to 4.78v, worried about frying something I learnt about clearing CMOS so did that and now the PC has become unstable and crashes with high end graphic programs. To go with that the PC also locks when completing the 32M memset run test and also the ntune stabilty test.

Sorry about the long winded post, but just need help with what the key things are that i need in place first and slow steps to achieving an averge OC that will suit my cooling. Can you also tell me how to have my two cards properly set up, i reckon there is something not quite right.

Thanks in advance

Marcus


Please edit your post as some of it is confusing. An example would be that you set your fsb to 667. With the default multiplier of 9X that would be 6 Ghz







. I can't figure out how you got to 3.0 with a 667 fsb.


----------



## Robilar

Not to mention, you are running 4 x 1 GB sticks. That can be problematic on this board.

Check out this neat little fan I found for the southbridge when I go back to SLI and add an X-FI (my spirit II will no longer fit at that point)


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Hi Tomas, welcome.
vcore 1.43125
1.2 vht 1.3
nb 1.5
sb 1.6
cpu vtt 1.55
qdr 1800
multiplier 8X
My 3.6 with the quad is 24 hours Orthos stable. Screenshot in my gallery. I was also able to hit 4050 
with it and run a few benches. That was with a 9X multiplier.
Yes I did the pencil mod to reduce the vdroop, not eliminate it. Some vcore settings will display vdroop, others won't.
My 6850 was Windows stable, but not Orthos stable. I ran it for a few weeks error free in Windows prior to getting the quad. The highest I was able to get it was 
4195.5. 
Realize that your mileage may vary.
I'm currently testing one of the EVGA 680i A1 boards at 3.82 with the quad. It too is Windows stable but not Orthos.


hey Litlratt just out of curiosity, what Vcore did you need to achieve 4.05ghz with a 9x multi? i can boot in to windows @ 4ghz and get the the first CPU test in 3dmark, then it crashes. i've successfully stabalised 3.9ghz, with 1.55v Vcore. havnt tested 24/7 stability, dont wanna run 1.55v for that long lol. need this CPU to last at least until the new 45nm's are out.


----------



## Litlratt

1.58125 - 1.59375
Not even close to stable. Was lucky to make it through the bench.


----------



## USlatin

did you try 1.21 Gigawatts?

it just might work... and you were not too far from it...

HAPPY HALLOWEEN!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


did you try 1.21 Gigawatts?

it just might work... and you were not too far from it...

HAPPY HALLOWEEN!


I'm working on it. Once I finish splicing into my neighbor's power meter, all [email protected]#$% gonna break loose.

I suppose a costume would be redundant for you


----------



## USlatin

u trying to say I look funny?


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


1.58125 - 1.59375
Not even close to stable. Was lucky to make it through the bench.


lol yeah tell me bout it. i had 1.59v and it still jammed up...im just gonna try out of the blue one day and hope i make it through.

3.9 seems to be pretty stable for me, was able to run several benches in a row and use windows and that. was even able to bench and operate Vista 64-bit. not even gonna bother with Vista and 4ghz. i just dont feel safe running 1.55v into a CPU anymore than i have to. especially when that CPU runs about 1.24v @ stock. lol..


----------



## SEXXXY-PC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Please edit your post as some of it is confusing. An example would be that you set your fsb to 667. With the default multiplier of 9X that would be 6 Ghz







. I can't figure out how you got to 3.0 with a 667 fsb.


Well im pretty sure thats what I changed and then changed back to
FSB 1333, now if 667 makes it to 6.0ghz would that have made my Core VID go to 4.78? and maybe why its so unstable or not? The funny thing is, is that Ai Booster still showed 1333 FSB and im pondering wether the changes im making are actually changing anything at all.

Dostoyevsky77

Thanks have found the default settings but really worried Im going to make things worse, will I have to reset drivers for the cards and complete everything that the shop boys did when loading it up for the first time?
or does it just reset back to before changes were made?

Stabitliy is back, and can now run 4 sticks of ram, well it boots up anyhow! the only thing ive changed is setting memory in bios to 700mhz


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SEXXXY-PC*


Well im pretty sure thats what I changed and then changed back to
FSB 1333, now if 667 makes it to 6.0ghz would that have made my Core VID go to 4.78? and maybe why its so unstable or not? The funny thing is, is that Ai Booster still showed 1333 FSB and im pondering wether the changes im making are actually changing anything at all.

Dostoyevsky77

Thanks have found the default settings but really worried Im going to make things worse, will I have to reset drivers for the cards and complete everything that the shop boys did when loading it up for the first time?
or does it just reset back to before changes were made?

Stabitliy is back, and can now run 4 sticks of ram, well it boots up anyhow! the only thing ive changed is setting memory in bios to 700mhz


you sure that 667 wasnt your memory clock? theres no way you got a 667 FSB stable. you would of cooked the board lol


----------



## SEXXXY-PC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtarmanrob*


you sure that 667 wasnt your memory clock? theres no way you got a 667 FSB stable. you would of cooked the board lol


Im confused now, pretty sure I changed the first setting under Unlinked and it said FSB 1333 and I changed it to 667. The computer booted ok, checked temp was ok, opened a high end game and it crashed rebooted and saw the Vcore VID at 4.78v so went back to bios and changed back to 1333FSB. Memory was at 800mhz with 3 sticks of 1gig ram, but games still kepted crashing so ive changed to 700mhz memory (second entry on unlinked page in bios) now all is stable again and funny thing is I can use 4 sticks of 1gig ram.

Please can someone tell me how to and where to start OCing this system correctly before I do too much damage,as you can see I have no idea.

Which is the best drivers for the NB and SB for OCing

Which is the best drivers for CPU

Which is the best drivers for the GPU

Do I use AI booster to change settings ( I have AI set to manual in bios)

Is there any other drivers or settings that need to be set first before I start

All help much appreciated


----------



## Mhill2029

Anyone know much about SPP <--> MCP? I have always left this on Auto, does altering this aid stability at all?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SEXXXY-PC* 
Im confused now, pretty sure I changed the first setting under Unlinked and it said FSB 1333 and I changed it to 667. The computer booted ok, checked temp was ok, opened a high end game and it crashed rebooted and saw the Vcore VID at 4.78v so went back to bios and changed back to 1333FSB. Memory was at 800mhz with 3 sticks of 1gig ram, but games still kepted crashing so ive changed to 700mhz memory (second entry on unlinked page in bios) now all is stable again and funny thing is I can use 4 sticks of 1gig ram.

Please can someone tell me how to and where to start OCing this system correctly before I do too much damage,as you can see I have no idea.

Which is the best drivers for the NB and SB for OCing

Which is the best drivers for CPU

Which is the best drivers for the GPU

Do I use AI booster to change settings ( I have AI set to manual in bios)

Is there any other drivers or settings that need to be set first before I start

All help much appreciated









Use the latest chipset and vcard drivers from Nvidia.
Do not use AI Booster.
Do you have a goal for your overclock, or does it depend on temps?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mhill2029* 
Anyone know much about SPP <--> MCP? I have always left this on Auto, does altering this aid stability at all?

What value are you getting at auto?
All of the adjustable voltage settings can affect stability.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mhill2029* 
Anyone know much about SPP <--> MCP? I have always left this on Auto, does altering this aid stability at all?

As LDT relates to the frequency between the Northbridge and Southbridge, SPP <--> MCP relates to the clocks between the NorthBridge and SouthBridge. You're best off locking this to its default value of 250 when overclocking.


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
What value are you getting at auto?
All of the adjustable voltage settings can affect stability.

According to Ntune (only way i can find out) my HT(SPP-MCP) is on 1.30v, so i take it 1.2VHT in the Bios is the same thing?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
As LDT relates to the frequency between the Northbridge and Southbridge, SPP <--> MCP relates to the clocks between the NorthBridge and SouthBridge. You're best off locking this to its default value of 250 when overclocking.

It's currently on Auto and always has been, so you say i should put it to 250?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mhill2029* 
According to Ntune (only way i can find out) my HT(SPP-MCP) is on 1.30v, so i take it 1.2VHT in the Bios is the same thing?

Everest will display the value.
1.3 on the 1.2vht works for most people. I have seen some clocks that required up to 1.45 if I remember correctly.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mhill2029* 
According to Ntune (only way i can find out) my HT(SPP-MCP) is on 1.30v, so i take it 1.2VHT in the Bios is the same thing?

Yes. The 1.2 HT voltage in the BIOS relates to the voltage of the bus between the Northbridge (SPP) and Southbridge (MCP) on 680i boards.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mhill2029* 
It's currently on Auto and always has been, so you say i should put it to 250?

Some motherboards will increase the SPP <--> MCP clocks as you raise FSB and some may not. I'm not too sure if the P5N32-E is one of the boards that increasses the clocks of this bus as FSB is raised, but just to be safe I always set mine to its default 250Mhz value.


----------



## Mhill2029

+Rep to t4ct1c47 and LitlRatt...


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Sexxxy PC, I'm sorry but I don't understand your questions. Drivers don't determine your ability to overclock; they are an interface for your OS (Windows). I suggest some reading first:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ing-guide.html

It would benefit us (and therefore you) if you could post your system specs in your sig. It sounds like you are changing some of the wrong things, and that might be part of your problem.

Your CPU has a default 1333 FSB, so lets start with that. Leave it UNLINKED with your RAM and start the RAM at 667. Go into the OVERCLOCKING menu and switch your MULTIPLIER to 9. Check your voltages and set CPU and RAM to reference and the rest to AUTO.

When you're stable, let us know and maybe we can go from there...


----------



## athjacky

Just got my Q6600 Go Batch L727A932

P5N32 e sli BIOS 1203

anyone can share OC experience with Q6600 ??

setting in BIOS as well


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *athjacky* 
Just got my Q6600 Go Batch L727A932

P5N32 e sli BIOS 1203

anyone can share OC experience with Q6600 ??

setting in BIOS as well

I suggest you read the guide on the first post of this thread along with *pauldovi's Intel overclocking guide*. At the end of the day you're better off learning a little bit about what the settings in the BIOS are actually changeing before you adjust them.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I have never seen this guide before. I didn't know what a NB strap was before today and it explains a lot about how I can't get over certain walls but how others are passed with ease. All sorts of REP+ to Pauldovi and one to you for showing me the way.

***EDIT: New landmark... 14114 on 3dm!!! 169.04 + RT 2.06 FTW!


----------



## AusKaos

Hi i have got 3.4gig on my E6700 using.
1.45625 vcore Do u think this is okCould someone post there setting at 3.4 gig to give me a comparison
. Is there an alternitive to core temp as it doses not work on vista. I am using Everest and nvidia monitor. Thanks for any Help


----------



## slytown

1.45 is fine. Did you run a stability test? What are your temps?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Core Temp works with Vista (if you mean x64). You just have to patch it. Download the attached file. My E6750 wouldn't report the correct temperatures with any other tool.

**EDIT: Yay. I have an OCN flame in my avatar. I expect to be able to trade by the time I need to off-load my QX6700!

**EDIT 2: New 3dm landmark. If you haven't yet, give 169.04 & RT 2.06 a whirl. It's the miracle driver!


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Core Temp works with Vista (if you mean x64). You just have to patch it. Download the attached file. My E6750 wouldn't report the correct temperatures with any other tool.

**EDIT: Yay. I have an OCN flame in my avatar. I expect to be able to trade by the time I need to off-load my QX6700!

***EDIT 2: New 3dm landmark. If you haven't yet, give 169.04 & RT 2.06 a whirl. It's the miracle driver!*

yeah i managed 660/1440/1065 with Riva Tuner 2.06. do you have any idea of how to get it to work with SLI ?? it only overclocks one of my cards..or do i need to overclock one, then flash the bios of the other so they boot the same?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtarmanrob*


yeah i managed 660/1440/1065 with Riva Tuner 2.06. do you have any idea of how to get it to work with SLI ?? it only overclocks one of my cards..or do i need to overclock one, then flash the bios of the other so they boot the same?


Heh. I just had the same conversation in the Nvidia forums. I've never OC'ed in SLI, but here's the place to find out how:
http://forums.slizone.com/index.php?showforum=21

***EDIT: CR 1 with 4x1 at 900MHz? Nicely done. Are those D9GMH? What're your benches?


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Heh. I just had the same conversation in the Nvidia forums. I've never OC'ed in SLI, but here's the place to find out how:
http://forums.slizone.com/index.php?showforum=21

***EDIT: CR 1 with 4x1 at 900MHz? Nicely done. Are those D9GMH? What're your benches?


cheers for the link.

lol to be honest i have no idea about the chips, sorry. ram isnt really my main field of expertise.

my best was running 924mhz @ 4-4-4-10-1T and 3.9ghz on the quad, i got 19,659. its in my sig. i've tried 4-4-4-6-1T aswell, coz someone else did that, but i get exactly 100 points less CPU score each time. it just seems to love 4-4-4-10-1T. havnt done a SuperPI or anything like that yet. trying to stabalise 4.05ghz. crashes at second CPU test.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

OC'ing RAM is really overrated. I'm obsessed with it because I've hit my CPU wall. Your timings and speeds are really good for 4x1, but I know 4x1 doesn't do as well on the P5N32-E. If you're talking about the second 3dm CPU test, there's something about that test that really screws with me: I can be stable overnight in Orthos but not pass the 3dm CPU test(s). It's weird.


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


OC'ing RAM is really overrated. I'm obsessed with it because I've hit my CPU wall. Your timings and speeds are really good for 4x1, but I know 4x1 doesn't do as well on the P5N32-E. If you're talking about the second 3dm CPU test, there's something about that test that really screws with me: I can be stable overnight in Orthos but not pass the 3dm CPU test(s). It's weird.


yeah i am talking about the 3dm06 test... it is weird ay. im not sure if its some kind of thermal throttling or something that stops it running.

yeah my mate off chops has your exact board, he seems to get really good results with 2x1gb, same timing as me coz we have same ram. for me in Vista 64 especially, i get way better bench performance with 4x1gb though. for XP benching i take out 2 and run 2x1gb. sorry thats what i had in when i benched 19,659. 2x1gb @ 924mhz 4-4-4-10-1T, 3.9ghz and XP Home.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I always bench at 4GB, because I NEED 4GB for some of what I do. I've posted it before, but here's the difference on 4x1 and 2x2 on two different chips on this board (P5N32-E)...


----------



## USlatin

hey... what up guys...

wassup Dosto... sorry it is taking so long to sell my board (and get that NB cooler to you) but I did some work on the post with pics and threw in some OCN window stickers hoping to speed things up a bit

did I tell you guys that I got G. Skill to RMA my HZ's? (I had taken off the stickers)

I'll be seeing what I can get out of them with only 2.2V, and maybe I'll run the Lanfest with them to see how they get along while I still have them


----------



## M3DS

Hi all was wondering if anyone had installed x2 gf800gtx in sli and fitted a Razer Barracuda™ AC-1 Gaming Audio Card in the middle. I am thinking of getting one but need to know if there's enough room inbetween the cards for the sound card?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *M3DS* 
Hi all was wondering if anyone had installed x2 gf800gtx in sli and fitted a Razer Barracuda™ AC-1 Gaming Audio Card in the middle. I am thinking of getting one but need to know if there's enough room inbetween the cards for the sound card?

Maybe you have some room to fitted.I think some members have sli and a sound card too.And you have any cooling in the SB?
Edt:Litlratt and mhill2029 run sli and a sound card,send a pm and they can check for clearance in the sound card.


----------



## M3DS

my SB is still as stock, so nothing there to get in the way. I did not do any major NB & SB mods as tbh i like the pipes on the mobo.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *M3DS* 
Hi all was wondering if anyone had installed x2 gf800gtx in sli and fitted a Razer Barracudaâ„¢ AC-1 Gaming Audio Card in the middle. I am thinking of getting one but need to know if there's enough room inbetween the cards for the sound card?

Normally, length is the issue with sound cards. Surely they didn't design a 2 slot audio card.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *M3DS* 
my SB is still as stock, so nothing there to get in the way. I did not do any major NB & SB mods as tbh i like the pipes on the mobo.

I recomend after market cooling for nb and sb if planning,in OC your rig.Specially if you going for high speed.


----------



## M3DS

Here's link to see Sound card it looks quite long, and the SB does come up a bit so was worried it might not slot in etc. As for comment on Oclocking i have my rig at 3.3 which runs fine for me, if i wish to go higher then i would have to look at making changes, & tbh i think i would look at going down the water cooling route if and when i wish to go higher. Later down the line i will replace CPU with a quad so no real point of Oclocking what i have to death atm.

http://www.razerzone.com/index.php?m...products_id=41


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *M3DS* 
Hi all was wondering if anyone had installed x2 gf800gtx in sli and fitted a Razer Barracuda™ AC-1 Gaming Audio Card in the middle. I am thinking of getting one but need to know if there's enough room inbetween the cards for the sound card?

As long as you intend to use the stock Southbridge cooler you won't have any issues fitting a Razor in there with two graphics cards in SLi. You may have issues if you ever decide to use a water block on the Southbridge at a later date though, as the audio card may block the tubeing.

Given the price of the Razor card, you may want to consider an Asus Xonar D2 instead. I switched from a Creative X-Fi Fatal1ty to the Xonar and am pretty satisfied with it. Despite not supporting EAX over 2.0, it's a good quality card and all its features work correctly under Vista.


----------



## M3DS

thanx for the comments guys, will have little think, and check out water cooling on south bridge in case i do go that route.


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M3DS*


thanx for the comments guys, will have little think, and check out water cooling on south bridge in case i do go that route.


FYI i have SLI GTX's and a X-Fi Xtreme Gamer in the middle. plenty of room.


----------



## slytown

Well, you won't get higher than 3.6 Ghz on this board with a quad-core, so either oc the crap out of the E6700 with some aftermarket NB cooling, or get a different mobo for the quad.


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


Well, you won't get higher than 3.6 Ghz on this board with a quad-core, so either oc the crap out of the E6700 with some aftermarket NB cooling, or get a different mobo for the quad.


my mate off chops gets 3.82ghz on his. his posts are a few pages back. i think it depends on your quad batch and the other voltage settings.


----------



## slytown

Who is this? What kind of set-up is he/she running though?

Yeah, from what I understand the big problem is handling the heat from the 4 cores at the higher voltages and some have said they can't get push the FSB very high.


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


Who is this? What kind of set-up is he/she running though?

Yeah, from what I understand the big problem is handling the heat from the 4 cores at the higher voltages.


his PC is here.

we got our quads at the exact same time, so could be the batch. coz i can boot into XP @ 4.05ghz, but cant stabalise a whole bench. i can bench 3.9ghz though. score in sig. i have a different motherboard however.

but yeah, one thing we found with his board, they have MASSIVE FSB walls. for example, he cant get 3.4-3.6 stable. wont even post. yet his 3.78ghz runs are 24/7 stable, gaming and all. we even played Crysis @ 3.82ghz. i had to do 450x8 to get 3.6ghz on mine. its a 680i chipset thing i think (the walls/holes). he's running a 9x multi, so that makes it 425 FSB (1700 QDR) i think...have to ask him when i get home from work.


----------



## Mozzie

Just quick question guys I'm planing to get Corsair Dominator "TWIN2X2048-10000C5DF"
ram for my rig thats 1240Mhz and pdf from corsair side say is for 680i board but my question is how better and stable it will be than stock 800mhz, as far I know all Domiantor ram is 800Mhz is this one factory OC?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Corsair makes Dominators in a variety of speeds, not just 800MHz. The data sheet for this pair says it's "tested" to 1240, so you should be able to expect stability at those speeds under warranty. As far as how much faster they will be than your PC2-6400s will depend on a number of factors including your FSB. Depending much you've OC'ed your FSB, you will only be able to take advantage of greater RAM bandwidth to a certain point. That being said, even assuming you have only a moderate overclock on your FSB, you will probably see performance gains.

In my opinion, those gains may not necessarily be worth the price tag for those Dominators. In general, OC'ing RAM does not have as large a system impact compared to other components. Once again in my opinion, when considering the cost of the new modules, you would do better tweaking your current pair (which, although only PC2-6400s, are still a darn good pair of PC2-6400s).

***EDIT: I just noticed the price tag of that RAM is over USD$600. If you absolutely must upgrade your RAM, you could get something that complements your system far better for literally one sixth that price.


----------



## Mozzie

Ok that make sens, my next buy is the new CPU (new Quade) so I think this will work nice with my new ram.
Thank you for your advaice.


----------



## nik6600

Hi,
I had my cpu at stock speed for a while and now i have decided to oc it to 3GHz.
I loaded my ocprofile from the bios and then opened cpuz. How much is the Core voltage supposed to be? On my cpuz it is 1.632V, isnt that abit high??


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

CPU-Z misreports vCore. If you make certain you have a reasonable value set in BIOS, you can remain confident that you're not over-volting the core. If you want to confirm this, run Everest Home (free):
http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html

If you like that one, you might consider buying (like I did) the full version for USD$35. If not, then there's that anyway.

Cheers,

d


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mozzie*


Just quick question guys I'm planing to get Corsair Dominator "TWIN2X2048-10000C5DF"
ram for my rig thats 1240Mhz and pdf from corsair side say is for 680i board but my question is how better and stable it will be than stock 800mhz, as far I know all Domiantor ram is 800Mhz is this one factory OC?


Also bear in mind that your current corsair ram does not use Micron D9 IC's (instead uses promo's IC's which are actually factory rated at DDR-2 667). Any of the higher end Corsair kits (any of the PC 8500 sticks) use Micron D9's which are the best for overclocking.


----------



## nik6600

I installed everest and its saying my cpu multiplier is 7 but in cpuz it says 9, im confused.. anyone know why this is?


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nik6600* 
I installed everest and its saying my cpu multiplier is 7 but in cpuz it says 9, im confused.. anyone know why this is?

i've had that too...i just reset and it seems to fix it. just make sure your comp defintiely hasnt dropped the multi for some reason. also, do you have C1E Halt State enabled in your bios? coz thats what it does, when your CPU is at minimal usage, it drops the volts/multiplier to save power. for example,if i run my quad stock with C1E enabled, when windows is not being used, it drops the multi to 6x and the voltage to like 1.18-1.20, and reports 1600mhz. then when you run a CPU-dependant app or program, shoots back up to 2400mhz/ 9x multi.

and Vista cant seem to understand i run an 8x multi. all my readings (except CPU-Z) show that im @ 4.05ghz. it thinks im running 450x9, not 450x8.


----------



## m.i.h.a.

Hi everyone








I would be gratefull if you could answer some of my questions, im not an expert so any info is welcome.

My spec:
Asus P5N32-E SLI (680i), bios ver. 0802
intel C2Q6600, stock cooler
2Ã-1GB OCZ DDR2 800MHz
Asus gf 8800 GTS 320MB
X-Fi XM

First thing is the bios








The one i have is rather old (ver. 0802) and i will probably have to upgrade it, right?
Which version of bios should i pick? Is the latest on asus website anygood?
I dont have floppy drive in my case, so what is the safest and foolproof alternative of updating bios on this mb? How do you upgrade it?

Well this is for now...when im done updating bios ill post some questions about overclocking, bios settings,...

Thx


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

1203 is generally considered the best version for overclocking. A couple pages ago, someone posted a link for it. It's no longer on the ASUS website because it was a beta. (I'd post a link to mine, but I'm at work).

Any method other than updating in Windows is generally considered fine. The easiest one would be to copy the .bin file to a flash drive then using the EZFlash tool in BIOS. The instructions are in your mobo manual (which can also be found on the ASUS website).


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
1203 is generally considered the best version for overclocking. A couple pages ago, someone posted a link for it. It's no longer on the ASUS website because it was a beta. (I'd post a link to mine, but I'm at work).

Any method other than updating in Windows is generally considered fine. The easiest one would be to copy the .bin file to a flash drive then using the EZFlash tool in BIOS. The instructions are in your mobo manual (which can also be found on the ASUS website).

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...P5N32-E%20SLI/


----------



## m.i.h.a.

Thx for the info and link

on that link there are two versions of 1203, one is "1203" and the other is "1203 beta"....they are the same size so they are probably just named differently, right?

so this 1203 bios is 100% compatible with asus p5n32-e sli (nforce 680i sli spp)? - yeah i know i worry too much, i just dont want to use the wrong bios file


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *m.i.h.a.* 
Thx for the info and link

on that link there are two versions of 1203, one is "1203" and the other is "1203 beta"....they are the same size so they are probably just named differently, right?

so this 1203 bios is 100% compatible with asus p5n32-e sli (nforce 680i sli spp)? - yeah i know i worry too much, i just dont want to use the wrong bios file









Get the 1203, and yes, 100%.


----------



## m.i.h.a.

bios updated successfully









Now to overclocking








Is there any other bios setting that you guys turn on/off or change some value?...i've got things disabled/enabled like it is mentioned in the first post. any other crucial setting for better OCing?

So what is the deal with ocing a quad core, can i just increase FSB till i get it to the highest limit or do i lower multiplier?

What about ram timings, curently they are set to 5-5-5-15....its better that CAS is low as it is possible....so can i just change timings to something like 4-4-4-12 or that isnt possible?

what do you guys do first?...do you tinker with timings or go ocing first?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

1. It would help us a LOT if you sigged your specs (include any OC'ing you've done so far).

2. Because OC'ing the processor gives you a better performance gain, it is generally a good idea to start with that. OC your CPU with the RAM at reference timings and at 1:1 UNLINKED (always unlinked). When you have a good CPU OC, then you begin with the RAM.

3. Pretty much everything should be DISABLED in BIOS. Keep in mind to follow the text from the first post and NOT THE PICTURES (the pictures have all the wrong settings).


----------



## m.i.h.a.

1. done









2. ok....so i set ratio to 1:1 unlinked and start raising the fsb?

3. thx for the notice









ive still got intel stock cooler on cpu so i dont expect much but id still like to try to see how far can it go

PS: in my drawer there is a CPU block (for socket A, but moded fot lga775), L30 pump and extreme II radiator, but i havent got time to put this in my case....now i dont know if i should sell these things and buy a decent air cooler (thermalright ultra 120) or put it together :/......is thermalright worth it?


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *m.i.h.a.*


PS: in my drawer there is a CPU block (for socket A, but moded fot lga775), L30 pump and extreme II radiator, but i havent got time to put this in my case....now i dont know if i should sell these things and buy a decent air cooler (thermalright ultra 120) or put it together :/......is thermalright worth it?


Thermalright U120X is exceptionally good and easy to set up.
On the other hand, should I do it again today, I'll rather use water cooling.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *m.i.h.a.*


1. done









2. ok....so i set ratio to 1:1 unlinked and start raising the fsb?

3. thx for the notice









ive still got intel stock cooler on cpu so i dont expect much but id still like to try to see how far can it go

PS: in my drawer there is a CPU block (for socket A, but moded fot lga775), L30 pump and extreme II radiator, but i havent got time to put this in my case....now i dont know if i should sell these things and buy a decent air cooler (thermalright ultra 120) or put it together :/......is thermalright worth it?


Yes, they are.
Your B3 will probably run a little warmer than the GO's.
Leave the vcore alone for now and up your QDR around 20 to 40 Mhz at a time. Test and monitor your temps closely at each change in frequency.


----------



## m.i.h.a.

1203 bios is supposed to have some issues with usb hardware....are they bad or not worth mentioning?

ill continue tomorrow its getting late here....thx all for the info


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

My understanding is that 1203's USB problems are limited to certain products on the Razer performance mouse/keyboard line. 1205 addressed these issues but reduced 1203's OC functionality. My advice is to use 1203 unless you own Razer products and have problems.

I would like to add that the contact surfaces on the highest-end air cooling solutions (such as the Tr 120) are not machined to a mirror finish. Unless you're willing to do the machining manually (a process known as "lapping"), I would recommend the Zalman 9700, which is an excellent cooler and does not require this process. That is just my opinion, though.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
My understanding is that 1203's USB problems are limited to certain products on the Razer performance mouse/keyboard line. 1205 addressed these issues but reduced 1203's OC functionality. My advice is to use 1203 unless you own Razer products and have problems.

I would like to add that the contact surfaces on the highest-end air cooling solutions (such as the Tr 120) are not machined to a mirror finish. Unless you're willing to do the machining manually (a process known as "lapping"), I would recommend the Zalman 9700, which is an excellent cooler and does not require this process. That is just my opinion, though.

Mine was/is fine and did not require any lapping to perform well. As usual, ymmv.


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
I would like to add that the contact surfaces on the highest-end air cooling solutions (such as the Tr 120) are not machined to a mirror finish. Unless you're willing to do the machining manually (a process known as "lapping"), I would recommend the Zalman 9700, which is an excellent cooler and does not require this process. That is just my opinion, though.

That's what I had to do on my TR U120X.


----------



## m.i.h.a.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundlebr* 
That's what I had to do on my TR U120X.

how noticable was temperature difference between original surface and lapped surface?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

It is negligible unless you are a hardcore obsessed OC tweaker addict. I do not believe that is your case, but prove me wrong. It appears as though you are interested in moderate overclocks for moderate time investment and expenditure.

If this is the case, an upper mid-level cooler like the Zalman 9700 would suffice.

If it is NOT the case - and you are considering seriously overclocking this beast - then, we need to start talking about other investments beyond just CPU cooling.

I would like to know: what is your goal? Why are you overclocking? What is your budget?


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


It is negligible unless you are a hardcore obsessed OC tweaker addict.

If this is the case, an upper mid-level cooler like the Zalman 9700 would suffice.


Right on the nose.

I lapped mine just fo fun of doing it. Lapped CPU, too. No noticeable difference in temps, of course. Just love shiny things


----------



## m.i.h.a.

my budget?...well i got all the things to water cool this cpu, but dont have the time to tinker with it....this is why im kind of interested in that thermalrihgt, but if i think again ill just have to take a little time off and mount wc system, it would be kind of silly to sell somthing if it still performs great

my goal?....im not so much in hardcore ocing, i just want to reach a max with what i have, allthough cpu is B3 there probably is a potential of reaching a solid 3GHz without too much overheating

does any of you have any problems with overheating SB, NB or mosfets?....i got two of those radial mosfet fans which can be mounted on top of the heatpipe
....antec 900 has many fans so there's no daneger of overheating but NB still puts me in a little worry


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bundlebr*


Right on the nose. I lapped mine just fo fun of doing it. Lapped CPU, too. No noticeable difference in temps, of course. Just love shiny things










It may be a coincidence that obsessive compulsive disorder (OCD) and overclocking (OC) share 66.6% of their acronym-ness, but in my case this is not so. I'm not only OCD about OC'ing, I'm an OCD OC'er.


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


It may be a coincidence that obsessive compulsive disorder (OCD) and overclocking (OC) share 66.6% of their acronym-ness, but in my case this is not so. I'm not only OCD about OC'ing, I'm an OCD OC'er.


That's what your name is all about... Just don't get your hands on an axe...


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


It may be a coincidence that obsessive compulsive disorder (OCD) and overclocking (OC) share 66.6% of their acronym-ness, but in my case this is not so. I'm not only OCD about OC'ing, I'm an OCD OC'er.


amen!


----------



## TomasFX

Litlratt

I find what was problem with my q6600
It was older version b3 with poor overclock capabilities







, so I buy E6850 
also I do vdrop pencil mood ( btw.I stll have 0.02 drop ) and today I hit 4.05 GHz








now I will see is it stabile for 24/7

also, can this thing go faster ?
bc I get this 4 GHz easy..


----------



## slytown

What are ur temps at?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TomasFX*


Litlratt

I find what was problem with my q6600
It was older version b3 with poor overclock capabilities







, so I buy E6850 
also I do vdrop pencil mood ( btw.I stll have 0.02 drop ) and today I hit 4.05 GHz








now I will see is it stabile for 24/7

also, can this thing go faster ?
bc I get this 4 GHz easy..


Congrats







Good job.
Post your voltages and temps, it will help others.
4196 was the highest I was able to bench my 6850.


----------



## slytown

If ur temps and voltage are maxed out you may have to overclock ur memory to increase stability past 4.05 Ghz.


----------



## franz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TomasFX* 
Litlratt

I find what was problem with my q6600
It was older version b3 with poor overclock capabilities







, so I buy E6850
also I do vdrop pencil mood ( btw.I stll have 0.02 drop ) and today I hit 4.05 GHz








now I will see is it stabile for 24/7

also, can this thing go faster ?
bc I get this 4 GHz easy..

How did you do the pencil mod. I still havent found much info on this board, on this forum or others.


----------



## TomasFX

vdrop mod
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=134100

vcore 1.53
1.2 auto
nb 1.55
sb 1.55

unlinked
fsb 1800 450X9
mem 900 4-4-4-12 2.1

idle 42*C load 53*C
system33*c


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

So, what do you do: just draw a lead pencil on those resistors? Cover it completely? What connections does that bridge if you're just doing it on the resistor? Does it matter what lead pencil you use (2B, HB, etc...)

Someone school me!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


So, what do you do: just draw a lead pencil on those resistors? Cover it completely? What connections does that bridge if you're just doing it on the resistor? Does it matter what lead pencil you use (2B, HB, etc...)

Someone school me!


I believe a 4b is recommended, I used whatever I had lying around.
A couple medium strokes and then test. Light strokes after that. One, then test. One, then test.
Reduce vdroop, don't eliminate it.


----------



## USlatin

Ya know... since my dang board doesn't seem to want to sell for me I think I am gonna walk to the marked on the corner and get a dang pencil... Dosto... u doing it now?


----------



## USlatin

hey Rtt... were you stable at 3.6?


----------



## USlatin

ok so I had a 1.31Vcore idle and it went to 1.26V under small FFT Prime so my droop was 0.05V...

I found some 0.5mm and 0.7mm HB leads and I couldn't wait to go to the store so I just managed, lol...

twice I must have applied too much cause it wouldn't even boot... oopsie... is that bad?

but the trusty replacement erasers I had which are like 1cm long (*** is the pencil?) managed to do the trick and remove the conductive dust better than if it had been paper..

on my third try I got it to hit 1.28V under load... bringing my droop from 0.05V to 0.03V

I want to hit 0.02V though so I am gonna keep trying

EDIT:

Ok this is funny... I tried again but instead of dropping it went back to 1.26?!? lol...
I am getting a normal pencil


----------



## USlatin

Ok, first of all I realized it was not 0.05 but 0.15V droop I started with























second... I got a 2HB pencil... went to town on it and got 0 droop

erased a bit and now things are a bit weird but it might be perfect depending on what you guys might say... Robilar, Ratt... please give me some peace of mind here:

I have a *slightly higher idle now... from 1.31 original to 1.33Vcore IDL*E
but my Vcore under LOAD is perfect in relation to that idle... I get *1.31Vcore under 
LOAD*

should I let it run like so and find the setting that gives me the 1.26Vcore under load as I aparently needed before for rock solid stable?


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Ok, first of all I realized it was not 0.05 but 0.15V droop I started with























second... I got a 2HB pencil... went to town on it and got 0 droop

erased a bit and now things are a bit weird but it might be perfect depending on what you guys might say... Robilar, Ratt... please give me some peace of mind here:

I have a *slightly higher idle now... from 1.31 original to 1.33Vcore IDL*E
but my Vcore under LOAD is perfect in relation to that idle... I get *1.31Vcore under
LOAD*

should I let it run like so and find the setting that gives me the 1.26Vcore under load as I aparently needed before for rock solid stable?

i've applied the pencil mod to my mobo, granted its a different board, as long as you have it spot on accurate you should be fine. mine is .01v out at idle, and dead on accurate at load. when i load at higher volts/more stress on the CPU, it actually overvolts by .01v. thats coz i applied too much 2B. but i like it


----------



## USlatin

I set it to 1.35V in the BIOS and I get 1.28 IDLE and 1.26 LOAD... so I was able to shave off 0.05V off my Vcore... not bad... but didn't notice a thing in temperatures still at 57-58 LOAD

so does it seem right?
I think that is what you are supposed to do but it is always nice to hear it from someone else


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Ya know... since my dang board doesn't seem to want to sell for me I think I am gonna walk to the marked on the corner and get a dang pencil... Dosto... u doing it now?


Next weekend (this weekend I'm going to Boston). I'm getting either a Maximus x38 or a PS3 for Christmas and if I fry something, I'd like to do it before my wife buys the PS3!!!


----------



## USlatin

PS33333333333333... who cares it is too advanced and it costs 50 million to make a game... they will look AWESOME, people will make them.... and HAVE YOU SEEN THE BLUE-RAY ISLE AT BLOCKBUSTER????? droooooooooooooooooooooooooolzzzz

let us know how it goes when you do it...

BTW there is no way to mess it up unless you go at it like you are in third grade with a crayon... and still I don't know if you can damage anything... to be safe set it to stock speed and underclock it... that way you have less voltage running while you mess with it... and you can erase some of all the graphite extremely easily


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


hey Rtt... were you stable at 3.6?


Yes, 24 hours small fft Orthos. Screenie in gallery.
I don't normally do 24 hours but I had attitude at the time.
Some expert said our board couldn't do it. hehehe
Difference between BIOS and actual vcore is .1??.
Under load, vdroop is sometimes immeasurable, as Everest will only display to hundredths.


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Yes, 24 hours small fft Orthos. Screenie in gallery.
I don't normally do 24 hours but I had attitude at the time.
Some expert said our board couldn't do it. hehehe
Difference between BIOS and actual vcore is .1??.
Under load, vdroop is sometimes immeasurable, as Everest will only display to hundredths.


hey dude...my mate knocked you off the top of the 3dmark 06 ladder


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtarmanrob*


hey dude...my mate knocked you off the top of the 3dmark 06 ladder










He's got a set of Ultras.
He should have done that a long time ago.








If I have time today, I'll try to gain 5 points. hehehe


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


He's got a set of Ultras.
He should have done that a long time ago.








If I have time today, I'll try to gain 5 points. hehehe


lol im sitting next to him right now. i'll laugh if you squeeze those 5 points and gain the top back.

hes benching again with some massive clocks on his ultras.

on the other hand, IM jealous of your score, coz you killed me and your GTX clocks are the same as mine @ stock. mine are overclocked and i didnt get 20K ... i need to stabalise 4ghz for the whole test


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I set it to 1.35V in the BIOS and I get 1.28 IDLE and 1.26 LOAD... so I was able to shave off 0.05V off my Vcore... not bad... but didn't notice a thing in temperatures still at 57-58 LOAD

so does it seem right?
I think that is what you are supposed to do but it is always nice to hear it from someone else


Why would you get a drop in temps? eliminating vdroop means your board will run at constant voltage regardless of load (which will actually bring idle temps up but load temps will remain the same). The main reason to do this is to drop the vcore needed to achieve a similar overclock under load. Thats where you would see a temp decrease as a result of dialing back vcore slightly.

The reason why board makers include vdroop on a board is to extend the lifespan of the capacitors. (it also drops the cost of the board; they can use lower rated caps if higher sustained voltages are not required). If they run at 100% capacity 24/7, they will last much less time. vdroop enables the caps to cycle up and down as needed decreasing overall load.

I've personally done several vdroop mods with varying results but ultimately decided that it was potentially harmfull in the long run (I did a vdroop mod on a p5b deluxe and it fried after 3 months of constant use).

In this case unless you are looking specifically for benching scores or are willing to hardwire potentometers onto the contact points (Which will allow voltage modulaition in addition to minimizing vdroop), the negatives will likely outweigh the benefits.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

... unless you're looking for an excuse to get a new board: "wife, computer dead. $250 expenditure necessary for sanity".


----------



## Litlratt

computer, wife dead. You're next.


----------



## Robilar

lol exactly dost!


----------



## USlatin

hey, just woke up so I haven't read your posts but I have a new set of HZ's I am testing and just got the videocards so I am a bit in a rush to get it all working...

QUICK QUESTION PLS
How much negative Vdroop do we have on the the Dimms?


----------



## USlatin

Ok, just read up so about the Vcroop mod... Robilar I though I would see an idle temp drop... also do you really think I might damage my board??!!? I had no idea... should I go back to the way things were?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Difference between BIOS and actual vcore is .1??.


Yes but I didn't know what to make of it.

Also, Ratt, did you only test 3.6 for Small FFTs? no blend?
I tried getting ina few times but it didn't happen...


----------



## Robilar

Not short term but over several months its a possibility. I used to do some extreme hard wired volt mods and managed to cook a couple of boards. For the small gain, I feel it's not worth it.


----------



## USlatin

So I got the pencils for nothing?!?!?! lol


----------



## Robilar

i've done a few pencil mods and was never really happy with the results as it wears off over time (not sure why, electrostatic build up perhaps?)


----------



## USlatin

man what a busy day...

just finished testing my third pair of RAM...
now I have to sell two
I have to install my 8800GT
ship my GTS
install my 8400GS
test my NLE with the three screens
then I have to finish a DVD cover
install UT3
I am tired already! lol


----------



## Robilar

you have got to get your hands on call of duty 4, blew my socks off!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I still plan on doing this vDroop mod. The reason is that I think it's really important to take these things head-on. I have made much costlier mistakes than destroying a $150 board (based on USlatin prices). And I believe Robilar when he says that this might shorten system life, but I also believe EVERYthing I've done to my system since I built it will shorten system life. I was never out to build the perennial computer; I always knew it would become legacy FAST, so you need to "take it to the limit... one more time" (Eagles), before you're done with it.

Next weekend, I'm going to rub some hot lead all over a teeny resistor to see how tight I can get it (oh, yeah baby! Oh, yeah).


----------



## Robilar

wow, that was wrong on many levels mate.

it really depends on the goal of your system. benching and higher sustained performance are two different things.


----------



## USlatin

hahah then you will be arrested for molesting your mobo,lol

yea I agree with you but when Robilar said 2-months and kaput well I don't care tht much about it... I am rock solid back at 1.4 for 1.31/1.26 and the only reason that I would have kept the pencil mod on is if I got into 3.6 and I didn't... so no point at all for me... even 3.6 would have been kinda dumb, but how could you not do it if you can... I can't... my graphite came right off,and I am back where I started

Robilar, yea man! You know i want it! lol
I installed and 50% into downloading the big-arse patch for UT3.. I wrote dowen a color correction bench for my GTS 640MB and plan on measuring framerate with Fraps in UT3

then I am installing 169.04 beta and hoping I can get both the 8800GT and the 8400GS working... then I will measure those and compare to see if I made a small mistake or not

I hope all goes well and I will finally get my monitors running together!


----------



## Mmmm~

are they starting to discontinue this board already? all the stores in south california i've went to look for this board say they dont have em anymore and they wont be having them again. said they're discontinuing it?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


man what a busy day...

just finished testing my third pair of RAM... 
now I have to sell two
I have to install my 8800GT
ship my GTS
install my 8400GS
test my NLE with the three screens
then I have to finish a DVD cover
install UT3
I am tired already! lol


LOL,you really busy mate.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Also, Ratt, did you only test 3.6 for Small FFTs? no blend?
I tried getting ina few times but it didn't happen...


23+ hours. 4Gb of ram

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


you have got to get your hands on call of duty 4, blew my socks off!


Good game. Socks are safe though.


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mmmm~* 
are they starting to discontinue this board already? all the stores in south california i've went to look for this board say they dont have em anymore and they wont be having them again. said they're discontinuing it?

Fry's got it:

http://shop4.outpost.com/product/508...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


I still plan on doing this vDroop mod. The reason is that I think it's really important to take these things head-on. I have made much costlier mistakes than destroying a $150 board (based on USlatin prices). And I believe Robilar when he says that this might shorten system life, but I also believe EVERYthing I've done to my system since I built it will shorten system life. I was never out to build the perennial computer; I always knew it would become legacy FAST, so you need to "take it to the limit... one more time" (Eagles), before you're done with it.

Next weekend, I'm going to rub some hot lead all over a teeny resistor to see how tight I can get it (oh, yeah baby! Oh, yeah).


Yeah, Raskol'nikov, when I did same stuff to my mobo, actual volts jumped from 1.52 idle/1.47 load (highest core temp ~63 C in Everest) to ~1.70 idle/1.64 load w/highest core ~75 C (BIOS setting was 1.5375 V). Had to drop volts in BIOS to ~1.34 to get back to initial actuals (with slightly larger Vdroop though...).

Bottom line: people who can keep their hands off mobos wouldn't read this. People who can't - wouldn't care... Zero efficiency.


----------



## Robilar

The board is not being discontinued. It's never been a huge seller (perhaps because asus never really promoted it). The evga boards got a lot more press despite the fact that the P5N32-E is superior in every way with dual core processors.


----------



## babybear

do u know what the sli broadcast apature and Nvidia GPU Ex feature is for on these boards??


----------



## USlatin

Robilar congrats on yet new toy!

Start a thread!!!

First measure everything with your multimeter and compare to your BIOS and Everest and possibly other software to say what's accurate.

Then get down to some serious overclocking and post your list of features recommended to turn off and so forth... how much was it? Link?


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *babybear*


do u know what the sli broadcast apature and Nvidia GPU Ex feature is for on these boards??


Nvidia GPU Ex enables your video card or your motherboard to take full advantage of nvidia drivers. i think its like an optimisation thing or something.

as for the other thing, i would also like to know as my mates board has that option and we have no idea what it does.


----------



## EAT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gtarmanrob* 
Nvidia GPU Ex enables your video card or your motherboard to take full advantage of nvidia drivers. i think its like an optimisation thing or something.

as for the other thing, i would also like to know as my mates board has that option and we have no idea what it does.

Have you tested the gpu ex? Does it post higher benches/fps?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EAT* 
Have you tested the gpu ex? Does it post higher benches/fps?

Both of the mentioned options are worthless.


----------



## Robilar

Turn off GPU EX its known to be garbage and can affect OC stability.

SLI broadcast aperature should only be on if you use SLI, it improves SLI cards' communication with each other. In most SLI boards its an innate feature and cannot be disabled (doesn't even show up in the bios).


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Robilar congrats on yet new toy!

Start a thread!!!

First measure everything with your multimeter and compare to your BIOS and Everest and possibly other software to say what's accurate.

Then get down to some serious overclocking and post your list of features recommended to turn off and so forth... how much was it? Link?


I got it for $260 CAD from ASI here in Canada. I picked it up with the intention of going with a quad (it holds its own against the EVGA) plus the solid caps and rear LCD poster was too tempting.

I will start a thread about it. I've already done all the voltage measurements and it carries signifigantly less vdroop than the p5n32-e which is nice. Also all the same vdroop mods from the p5n32-e work identically on this board (Although you have read my opinion on them).

The board also comes with three temp sensor headers and leads. I hooked one up and inserted it inside the nb chipset area. At idle 41C, thats 6c higher than my overclocked cpu idles lol.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Turn off GPU EX its known to be garbage and can affect OC stability.

SLI broadcast aperature should only be on if you use SLI, it improves SLI cards' communication with each other. In most SLI boards its an innate feature and cannot be disabled (doesn't even show up in the bios).


I haven't tried either with the 1203 BIOS. But all the ones up to that, the options had no affect.


----------



## babybear

ur right about the ex option makes my system unstable with my 3.37 cpu overclock thanx for the info..

i get mixed results with the other option some games it helps some not, i 
have a current 13111 3dmark score so i guess i dont really need either, but i was just interested.
roblair u have an almost identical set up to mine so id love to know exactly what ur settings are i have a e6600 and 4gb of crucial ram gettin good overclock but id love more any sugestions ?


----------



## Robilar

Brand new striker babybear. I created this sticky about the asus p5n32-e (which i had until two days ago).

The bios is almost identical though between the two boards and my guide applies to both equally.

One thing i can say is a mate of mine, Sdumper who now hangs mostly at xtreme ad no difficulty getting 450 fsb with a quad (Q6600). I have all his bios settings.

The reason for this is that I am selling my X6800 and buying a QX6850. It has an unlocked multi so fsb caps really don't matter but the striker has too many other features to resist. Also, I'll likely go back to sli again (had 8800gtx sli'd for awhile).


----------



## Mmmm~

ok so im starting to be a bit edgey on my NB volts.. does it matter how high the volts are even if i can cool it down? And how do i know what temps my NB is at? cause the only way i hit 3.6ghz on my quad was with freaking 1.6 volts on the NB.. is it just the "system" temp?


----------



## Robilar

Run a thermal sensor along side it (are you actively cooling it?)


----------



## Mmmm~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Run a thermal sensor along side it (are you actively cooling it?)


its on water. one of those EK blocks.. is that good enough? or should i take it down a few notches>?


----------



## Robilar

at those volts you will fry it eventually cognoscenti cooked a couple of the boards by running the nb too high


----------



## Mmmm~

alright. ill take it all down a few notches then... i want this board to atleast last a year lol.


----------



## babybear

hi robilar thanx for the info if u go sli let me konw what settings work best for u in the bios id love to know what ur selling the cpu for was thinking about one myself if i got it from u could u let me know what settings u were running it on ?
are u using air ? or water ? ive only got a zelman 9700 at the min what chip set coolers do u have ive none on mine id really love to get 3.7 like u have

thanx


----------



## Robilar

I use a pair of thermaltake spirit II's for nb and sb with two sets of swiftech mc21's for the vrms.


----------



## Mmmm~

has anyone compared the new p5n32-e sli and the old one? i just got another 2 days ago and the capacitors and the black box looking phase power things are different too. plus the feature that it reverts your computer to the normal settings after a bad OC actually works now. im just wondering what else is different and if they OC differently.


----------



## EAT

Thanks litlrat and Roblilar for the info on gpu-ex and sli aperture. Welcome to the world of striker Robilar!!!! You'll will probably beat me to the punch on creating a dedicated striker thread, but I have compiled tons of info on the striker as well as have about all the test setups on strikers from the big names xbit, tom's, other oc clubs etc. I also have a few horror story/ success from personal experience. Watch out for the onboard raid controller and if using sata make sure you have ones that lock.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mmmm~* 
has anyone compared the new p5n32-e sli and the old one? i just got another 2 days ago and the capacitors and the black box looking phase power things are different too. plus the feature that it reverts your computer to the normal settings after a bad OC actually works now. im just wondering what else is different and if they OC differently.

mine was the first revision so this is interesting


----------



## Cer[v]3r

What's the link for the headpipes for the p5n32-e sli plus? it's thermalright but i forgot the link to their heatpipes for the north and south bridge


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cer[v]3r* 
What's the link for the headpipes for the p5n32-e sli plus? it's thermalright but i forgot the link to their heatpipes for the north and south bridge


Thermalright HR-05-SLI Chipset Cooler


----------



## nicoloco

Hi, Robilar. Would you mind helping me out with my thread (the one in the signature, just press the link). I am such a noob, and I would love to have your input on the best settings for my system.

Thanks


----------



## USlatin

What would you do if you didn't only game:

_ Keep 2GB Corsair Lanfest at 1000MHz
_ Keep the 4GB of HZ at 950MHz (possibly a wee bit higher)

Same volts and timings


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


What would you do if you didn't only game:

_ Keep 2GB Corsair Lanfest at 1000MHz
_ Keep the 4GB of HZ at 950MHz (possibly a wee bit higher)

Same volts and timings


I know you do video editing and so forth. in that case the 4 gb is the best choice. pure gaming like me (company laptop for work), faster 2 gb is a better choice.


----------



## Robilar

nicolo, you have a Asus P5N32-E SLI, E 4300 CPU. 2 kits of Kingston ValueR. DDR2 PC5300 2048MB CL5 Kit w/two matched ValueRAM 1024MB DDR2 , which takes the total to 4 gigs of memory,a Cooler Master Eclipse

_"I will be running two Geforce 7800 GT graphics cards, and my PSU is a Seasonic M12 600W, so power should not be a issue either.

Now, the big question:
What settings would you reccomend me to run? I would LOVE to get a complete guide for me, as I don't know too much about how to safely clock my CPU to a stable level.

Bonus questions:

1: Is it not a good idea to totally cover the CPU in thermal paste?
2: Will it be possible for me to OC my GPU's? They are of different manufacturers, but both have Zalman coolers fitted, should I apply thermal paste to them?_"

First, with the E4300, leave the multi at 9x and you can likely run at 350 fsb (3.150 ghz). you will need to set the mb to whats in the page one of my guide and vcore will need to go to at least 1.42.

One problem... your ram. it will likely not have the overhead to handle a decent overclock not to mention mixed sets with different timings so make sure you set the ram to unlinked in the bios (although this may not be enough). with your cooling and that cpu if you take the ram out of the equation you can get very solid overclocks. the ram will be unpredictable though.

you can definitely overclock the video cards. i had a pair of 7800 gts (an asus and a bfg) that I ran overclocked in sli without issue. What OS are you running as vista will have some issues with some versions of ati tool and riva tuner.

the zalman coolers require thermal paste on them over the gpu but dont use the included zalman stuff, its crap, go with as5.

i prefer putting a small bead of as5 on the centre of my cpu and then using a razor blade to carefully smooth a thin, even coat across the entire cpu. Its always worked well although others have different techniques.


----------



## off chops

EAT said:


> Thanks litlrat and Roblilar for the info on gpu-ex and sli aperture.
> 
> so has anybody got proof that these features do nothing. i tried the sli aperture and it did nothing that i could see. i always leave the gpu ex on because it seems to allow higher overclocks on the vid cards. should i be leaving the sli apeture on aswell??


----------



## Robilar

with sli'd cards yes for the aperature

gpu ex has caused numerous issues with overclocking. the asus forums are filled with them. I have a contact at asus that indicated that future bios releases for the 680i boards will actually eliminate the gpu ex feature. that should be a strong indicator that its not a stable feature


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I know you do video editing and so forth. in that case the 4 gb is the best choice. pure gaming like me (company laptop for work), faster 2 gb is a better choice.

Yea... for Photoshop which I use more and more every day. Also, it seems 4GB is a great little spot to be in for AVID with Apples, 3GB should be best then...

Now I gotta get your GTX...


----------



## Mmmm~

does the p5n32-e sli have the automatic shutdown on overheating feature? cant find anything on it and with so many horror stories ive read on pumps failing i admit to being concerned lol


----------



## Robilar

you can set the board to shutdown in the bios if temps are exceeded.


----------



## Drugmanrx

Great Guide! I am new to overclocking and I have:

Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.4GHz G0
ASUS P5N32-E SLI NVIDIA nForce 680i
EVGA GeForce 8800GTS 640MB
G.SKILL 4GB (4 x 1GB) DDR2 800
Cooler Master Aquagate Viva Liquid Cooling System

I would like to push my G0 to at least 3 gigs but I am afraid to mess around with the voltages. With voltages set on "auto" I get to 2.5GHz just by raising the FSB. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to push this CPU further? I am just a little nervous about playing with the settings since I am new at this. Would these be appropriate voltages for my quad?

http://www.overclock.net/attachments...de-image-6.jpg

I know intel rates the chip 0.85V - 1.5V, does anyone know what is considered its stock voltage? What happens if you go over the stock voltage? Thanks in advance!


----------



## Robilar

well you are in luck because the quads top out around 3 ghz on the board. The 680i boards in general are not great with quads (although my guide you are in demonstrates the power of the p5n32-e with dual core chips).

what you need to do is set cpu vtt to max (wont effect temps) set your ram to 2.1 v manually and turn off all the things i've listed in page one.

Then set your vcore to 1.38 to start. At that point keep the multi at 9x and start moving fsb up. Your goal should be 340 fsb stable (which is 3.06 ghz). You may need to increase the vcore slightly towards the end. start with stock fsb and up it in 10mhz increments. then run orthos at each level for about 15 minutes to ensure its initially stable (full orthos comes later).

Do not go higher than 1.45 vcore without checking back in. You should be stable at 3 ghz with much less than that and any higher will stress your water cooling and nb temps unecessarily.

btw leave all your other ram settings on auto and set ram to unlinked.

This should get you to 3 ghz (Although vcore again may need to be higher)

once thats done you can work on tightening up your ram settings.


----------



## Mmmm~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
you can set the board to shutdown in the bios if temps are exceeded.

which setting is that exactly? ._. i think im blind or prolly its not so obvious....


----------



## Robilar

in power management, youll see temp threshold controls


----------



## Mmmm~

can you be more specific on directions... im sorry.. im noob


----------



## Drugmanrx

Thanks for your help! I was able to get to 3 ghz last night by following your directions. I set the vcore to 1.38 without even having to raise it. My only problem is that when I run orthos for 15 minutes the temp tops out to around 65 which makes me a bit nervous. I am working on lowering the vcore voltage thinking that it might help lower my temps on load. Is this temp to high? Will lowering the vcore as much as possible while keeping it stable help lower those temps? Thanks!


----------



## Robilar

fill out your system specs please

what cooling are you using?


----------



## Drugmanrx

Sorry,

Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.4GHz G0
ASUS P5N32-E SLI NVIDIA nForce 680i
EVGA GeForce 8800GTS 640MB
G.SKILL 4GB (4 x 1GB) DDR2 800
Cooler Master Aquagate Viva Liquid Cooling System

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...7&Tpk=aquagate

My Mobo also gets up there (~50s range) I have 4 case fans also. I have the radiator mounted near the top of the case in a drive bay per the instructions and it warms the top of my case up....


----------



## KeNtJai

wzzp all, i'm new to this forum and i have been reading this thread for over 2 days now because its soooooo long









I have the p5n32-e with the 1203 bios (kinda sucks that i need to unplug my razor keyboard to start the pc







) with a q6600 g0. I know that quads dont clock that well on this mobo but i still want to get it to the 3.6Ghz. So far i got to the 3,2Ghz but it doesnt go higher. 3,3 still boots but with prime 3 cores drop within 5 minutes.
I have tried the setting from atomic:
vcore 1.43125
1,2 vht 1.3
nb 1.5
sb 1.6
cpu vtt 1.55
@ 1800 FSB, multiplier 8x

The system starts but windows doenst want to load i'm getting an error(The file is possibly corrupt. The file header checksum does not match the computed checksum)
On the other side... it starts







, because for example when i change it to 1600 FSB @ multiplier 9x the pc starts but no screen(i assume that is normal with a wrong overclock?)

Any other tips to get it to the 3.6? I use to have a GA-P35C-DS3R and overclocked it to 3,6 in a blink off one eye.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KeNtJai*


wzzp all, i'm new to this forum and i have been reading this thread for over 2 days now because its soooooo long









I have the p5n32-e with the 1203 bios (kinda sucks that i need to unplug my razor keyboard to start the pc







) with a q6600 g0. I know that quads dont clock that well on this mobo but i still want to get it to the 3.6Ghz. So far i got to the 3,2Ghz but it doesnt go higher. 3,3 still boots but with prime 3 cores drop within 5 minutes.
I have tried the setting from atomic:
vcore 1.43125
1,2 vht 1.3
nb 1.5
sb 1.6
cpu vtt 1.55
@ 1800 FSB, multiplier 8x

The system starts but windows doenst want to load i'm getting an error(The file is possibly corrupt. The file header checksum does not match the computed checksum)
On the other side... it starts







, because for example when i change it to 1600 FSB @ multiplier 9x the pc starts but no screen(i assume that is normal with a wrong overclock?)

Any other tips to get it to the 3.6? I use to have a GA-P35C-DS3R and overclocked it to 3,6 in a blink off one eye.


Try 450 X 8 with current voltages. Works for me.
The vdroop mod may help you here.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mmmm~*


which setting is that exactly? ._. i think im blind or prolly its not so obvious....


You can check in the manual too.But is in the hardware monitor section in bios.


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
Try 450 X 8 with current voltages. Works for me.
The vdroop mod may help you here.

1800fsb with an 8x multi is 450 x 8..?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gtarmanrob* 
1800fsb with an 8x multi is 450 x 8..?

Oops, missed that. Thx gtar.
If you can't get there by upping vcore, your board probably isn't going to do it. If not, try 375 X 9. That will give you a 3.375 Ghz.


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
Oops, missed that. Thx gtar.
If you can't get there by upping vcore, your board probably isn't going to do it. If not, try 375 X 9. That will give you a 3.375 Ghz.

hey Litlratt, which of your two boards did you hit 4ghz with? im guessing the Evga one.

also, have you tried benching with the new 169.04 drivers or even 169.09? i noticed after installing them i needed to drop the Vcore to re-gain stability, but my bench scores went up quite a bit. 300+ points. that was with 169.04.

havnt tried 169.09 yet.

have you been able to bench 4ghz again lol? i cant get through a whole bench yet.


----------



## slytown

What do you guys think? Will the HR-05 fit next to my Tuniq tower? I'll probably get the new IFX version, so it might be iffy since it's new. Or should I just get 2 SLi versions?

Also, I'll probably just get a couple of the HR-09s to match since my mosfets will be bare. I haven't found any good copper mosfet HSs that could match the Spirit IIs, so that's why I'm going with Thermalrights.

Do I really need mosfet coolers anyways? It looks like the HR-09s might not fit either. I was under the assumption the mosfet coolers were just to passify the heat through the pipes. I'm gonna max out this thing finally when winter hits.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gtarmanrob* 
hey Litlratt, which of your two boards did you hit 4ghz with? im guessing the Evga one.

also, have you tried benching with the new 169.04 drivers or even 169.09? i noticed after installing them i needed to drop the Vcore to re-gain stability, but my bench scores went up quite a bit. 300+ points. that was with 169.04.

havnt tried 169.09 yet.

have you been able to bench 4ghz again lol? i cant get through a whole bench yet.

EVGA
ASUS
Actually, both of them hit 4Ghz. Benched with the Asus with 165.01 drivers. Tried last week with the EVGA with 169.04 and never made it through a single Mark.
My Asus is more stable than the EVGA at any worthwhile clock. The EVGA will be RMA'd just like the last 2 T1's.
I'll try with the 169.09's, but Crysis comes out today so...................

@ slytown
I have some of the HR-09's and they will require major modification, from what I remember, to get them installed. I can't remember what it was that I needed to do to get them to fit, but it was substantial enough that I decided against it.


----------



## nuclearjock

Well it's here:









Trouble is the system will post, but reoprts "unrecognized processor".
Can't change multi from 6, in short unusuable until ASSus gets around to making good on their 45nm compatability claim with an appropriate BIOS update.

Meantime, I may have to jump ship for awhile, (X38??).


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuclearjock*


Well it's here:

Trouble is the system will post, but reoprts "unrecognized processor".
Can't change multi from 6, in short unusuable until ASSus gets around to making good on their 45nm compatability claim with an appropriate BIOS update.

Meantime, I may have to jump ship for awhile, (X38??).










Send it to me nuc, I'll try it.


----------



## trueg50

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


What do you guys think? Will the HR-05 fit next to my Tuniq tower? I'll probably get the new IFX version, so it might be iffy since it's new. Or should I just get 2 SLi versions?

.


I am using a Tuniq and an IFX HR-05 for my northbridge, and they fit fine! Just have to make sure the tuniq is blowing up. I also made the mistake of getting an HR-05 SLI IFX for the southbridge only to find that a regular HR-05 IFX would have been fine! You won't be able to use a long PCI card if you use it (I don't think atleast)

Any 80mm should be fine for it, one of the perks of the IFX version.

For the Mosfets, I am using the swiftech heatsinks, MC-21's, just make sure to use lots of alchohol to clean off the mosfets since the oil they have sort of neutralizes the adhesive on the 'sinks.


----------



## Robilar

1302 bios update is available in the ftp server. My contact indicated that it will help sli with the new 8800gt and is supposed to give a bit more overhead with quads.


----------



## slytown

I don't like those swiftech mosfets. Have you tested your board without any mosfet cooling to see if it's ok?


----------



## trueg50

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


I don't like those swiftech mosfets. Have you tested your board without any mosfet cooling to see if it's ok?


I wouldn't trust it without cooling in the least bit.

Every single Nvidia 6 series board has mosfet cooling, plus most boards have cooling there these days.


----------



## M3DS

Hi all,
back posting in this thread again. I am now moving up to Vista 64bit on this MOBO & was wondering if any of you guys had made the step up yet?
If so what drivers have you found so far, i am thinking of setting up the Raid array as well so guessing i need the vista 64 bit drivers to add or not?
as i dont remember seeing an option to add them when installing OS.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slytown* 
I don't like those swiftech mosfets. Have you tested your board without any mosfet cooling to see if it's ok?

Yes I have (while I was waiting for the swiftech to arrive). BSOD's and crashes after a few hours of anything other than stock...


----------



## trueg50

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M3DS*


Hi all,
back posting in this thread again. I am now moving up to Vista 64bit on this MOBO & was wondering if any of you guys had made the step up yet?
If so what drivers have you found so far, i am thinking of setting up the Raid array as well so guessing i need the vista 64 bit drivers to add or not?
as i dont remember seeing an option to add them when installing OS.


Made the move a few weeks ago. Right now I am just using the Asus RAID drivers.

When installing Vista on an array, I you just have to throw the driver on a USB drive and Vista will ask for the RAID drivers when you start installing it.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
1302 bios update is available in the ftp server. My contact indicated that it will help sli with the new 8800gt and is supposed to give a bit more overhead with quads.

Wow. That's exciting. That means ASUS still loves us! I think I might hold on to this board a little longer than Christmas! (REP+ as usual).

Has anyone tested this? Is it just coincidence that the P5N32-E BIOS version number is converging with the Striker BIOS number? Robilar, why does your sig say you have a Striker? Did I miss something? I done been traveling (right now, I live beneath the approach path for MIA; every time an airplane goes by, I loose TV signal for about a second).


----------



## Litlratt

Dosto = guinea pig.
Try the new BIOS and let us know. I hate fixing something when it isn't broke.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Does anyone know if it's possible to adjust the GTL Ref voltage with the new 1302 BIOS and has anyone here seen improvements in their quad clocks?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *M3DS* 
Hi all,
back posting in this thread again. I am now moving up to Vista 64bit on this MOBO & was wondering if any of you guys had made the step up yet?
If so what drivers have you found so far, i am thinking of setting up the Raid array as well so guessing i need the vista 64 bit drivers to add or not?
as i dont remember seeing an option to add them when installing OS.

You can get x64 Raid drivers from Asus's support site and FTP server. Aside from that, the only other motherboard related drivers you'll need to get hold of will be for the ExtremeFX audio card, again from Asus's site, if you use it.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Wow. That's exciting. That means ASUS still loves us! I think I might hold on to this board a little longer than Christmas! (REP+ as usual).

Has anyone tested this? Is it just coincidence that the P5N32-E BIOS version number is converging with the Striker BIOS number? Robilar, why does your sig say you have a Striker? Did I miss something? I done been traveling (right now, I live beneath the approach path for MIA; every time an airplane goes by, I loose TV signal for about a second).

I sold my p5n32-e and put in a striker(got a silly deal on it)


----------



## M3DS

thanx guys, yer i got drivers from ASUS, Nvidia & Razor.

Theres a Beta on ASUS for chipset so not sure if i will use that atm.


----------



## robevans89

Do you guys reckon you could get to 400MHz FSB on the stock NB and SB cooling?


----------



## M3DS

i would say risky, as peeps seem to rip out stock cooling right from the start.


----------



## Mmmm~

tried the new 1302... i couldnt even boot at stock speeds, when it did boot the computer automaticall set it to 2.13ghz and my pc8500 dominators were at 850mhz with stock timings just so that it would boot. Had to retry EZ flash 3 times cause it kept hanging when it was checking the bios 1201 when i was switching back even after it was already underclocked. i dont know.. mebbe its my ram or something but 1302 doesnt like me


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *robevans89* 
Do you guys reckon you could get to 400MHz FSB on the stock NB and SB cooling?

not with that chip on your sig... if you are talking about an other chi sorry, I haven't been around the thread


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
Dosto = guinea pig.
Try the new BIOS and let us know. I hate fixing something when it isn't broke.

NP, WILCO. I'll probs flash over the weekend (still out'a town ATM). Just before I left, I got my RMA'ed Ballistix. I'll want to make sure they're stable on 1203, so I may not make the move until probably Sunday. Unless I decide to stay on my G.Skill 2x2s. Dunno. We'll see where it goes. There's a lot of catch-up gaming to be done (Crysis and... yes, I'm excited about SimCity Societies!).


----------



## USlatin

hey dosto u still game for the NB cooler?

Not that I think my p5N32-E SLI is gonna sell but I just got my second friggin' PM... someone that wants both the PSU and the MoBo so I am hoping it might stick...


----------



## slytown

Anyone have an opinion on cutting-off my heatpipes and using the mosfets without them? I'm still getting new NB and SB HSs of course.


----------



## M3DS

Had a Problem with memory when i tried to add more than 2 sticks of ram last night. Seems Vista 64 bit has a problem, you have to get a hot fix from microsoft to allow 64bit to have 4GB.
lol good ole MS


----------



## slytown

Vista FTW, huh?


----------



## trueg50

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


Anyone have an opinion on cutting-off my heatpipes and using the mosfets without them? I'm still getting new NB and SB HSs of course.


I would avoid that. If you had to RMA, then you would need the stock coolers attached.

Just pick up some of the small swiftech MC 21's, MC14's or enzotech. Either way you will need a total of atleast 8 'sinks, one for two chips. though one per chip might work out a little easier for the MC 14's and the enzotech's.

Look at pics of Robilar and USlatin's boards for some nice pics on how to arrange the cooling.


----------



## slytown

I don't really like those things. I'll probably just try the HR-09s and see if they fit.


----------



## r3skyline

hey first post in here. finally got my p5n running stable now with my intel @ 2.8 for now on stock cooling

where do you guys pick up your NB/SB coolers from cuz i wanna oc to above the 3Ghz mark but dont wanna do it on stock cooling. right now i have a temp tuniq tower coming in and after that im going to upgrade to a better customized watercooling setup.


----------



## Robilar

newegg has the thermaltake extreme spirit II's that I use. You'll need sinks for the naked vrms as well.


----------



## Litlratt

Tried the 1302 BIOS.
Wouldn't post with current overclock.
Reverted back to 1203.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
Tried the 1302 BIOS.
Wouldn't post with current overclock.
Reverted back to 1203.

rep for testing Ratt

Well I bet 1203 is gonna be the last and best...

I mean it seems there is nothing left for them to provide to us and all they are putting out is compatibility crap and or other stuff that makes their boards last longer so they can save money...

this way only those who REALLY want to will find the way to push the board to it's limits and the rest will have toned down clocks which will limit the ammount of RMAs they'll have to accept...


----------



## tekkah

Hi everyone,

Im sorry to say i switched over to the EVGA T1 mobo today









Is there a similiar thread on that mobo like this one?

greets

tekk


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tekkah* 
Hi everyone,

Im sorry to say i switched over to the EVGA T1 mobo today









Is there a similiar thread on that mobo like this one?

greets

tekk


congrats...

nope... the info is staggered... the P5N32-E SLI had that on any other boards out there other than the 650i... well that's also ASUS...









ASUS should pay the contributors to this thread...


----------



## slytown

I'm up for that. Here come student loans. :|


----------



## tekkah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


congrats...

nope... the info is staggered... the P5N32-E SLI had that on any other boards out there other than the 650i... well that's also ASUS...









ASUS should pay the contributors to this thread...


Hi USLatin









U switched to EVGA yet?

BTW, the reason why i swapped to this board was the fact that not a single SATA burner would work on my P5N32-E SLI anymore... Cant boot from it nothing.. i swapped burners, still nothing, so i figured.. dead sata controller..

Now the same problem on the EVGA board, i cant get a single SATA burner to work... tried everything! I cant boot from it... "Searching for boot" just sits there for ages.

I finally installed Vista 64, unplugged the IDE burner which i used to install windows ( ide burner somehow works ).. and bang, BSOD at win startup with the SATA burner again..

Its not the board, not the burner, not the mem.. what the hell is it then?


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tekkah*


Hi USLatin









U switched to EVGA yet?

BTW, the reason why i swapped to this board was the fact that not a single SATA burner would work on my P5N32-E SLI anymore... Cant boot from it nothing.. i swapped burners, still nothing, so i figured.. dead sata controller..

Now the same problem on the EVGA board, i cant get a single SATA burner to work... tried everything! I cant boot from it... "Searching for boot" just sits there for ages.

I finally installed Vista 64, unplugged the IDE burner which i used to install windows ( ide burner somehow works ).. and bang, BSOD at win startup with the SATA burner again..

Its not the board, not the burner, not the mem.. what the hell is it then?










Do they appear to get power? Tried different sata cables? Double checked bios settings? I had the same problem on my striker with HDD's, ended up being two dead ports on the board. For a sec thought it was the cable off of my PSU, or the sata cables as I don't have the ones that lock and they got a little chewed up with being disconnected and reconnected a bunch.


----------



## tekkah

Ah, just fixed the problem... A power cable broke down, it did kill my burner tho'... ah well, they aint worth much anyways ...

Well, the EVGA T1 680i is up and running.. i just inserted my 4 x 1G Reaper 8500's, while the board is made for DDR 800, will this work with ocing?


----------



## slytown

Keep it to two sticks so you don't fry your NB and your memory controller.


----------



## USlatin

I want an ABIT IP35 Pro, not the EVGA, but the EVGA was second in the list


----------



## orbiter

Hi All,

I've been looking around on the net for a few days now for a solution to my 4GB ram problem on the P5N32-E SLI. I just couldn't get my system to P.O.S.T at all untill I removed one of the sticks (Corsair 6400)









So after a lot of faffing around I spotted amongst all the great info offered here







(sorry can't find the post again now) somebody mentioned underclocking the mem to 667MHz which I proceeded to do... Wehay it worked







4GB operational apart from the obvious vista access issue









After that though I noticed the system reponse was a little slower, in fact almost as slow as my older Asrock Dual VSTA







so I proceeded to fettle further.. And just incase it may help anyone esle with headaches over the 4GB ram issue on the P5N32-E SLI here is what I set in bios to get me past the P.O.S.T and into Vista.

Everything on auto apart from my fan settings and the following..

AI Tuning - manual
FSB Memory Clock - Linked
FSB Memory Ratio - 3:2
Timings to 5.5.5.12 and 1T








------------------------------------------

With the above settings my mem is now running at 711MHz which after some reading I think should be better for the NB?

Also had the CPU up to 2.92GHz with 1:1 ratio and It will go loads further, It really fly's with those settings however I don't really want to fry this thing yet as its brand new and only air cooled.

It seems this Asus mobo is very picky over how it works with different settings, especially because when I first got it I thought it was a waste of money as it didn't seem to perform how I expected. However after a lot of reading and hopefully plenty of learning from you guys I now have a system that is much faster than my older one and is a little more future proof.

Orb


----------



## slytown

Running at 1T is faster but less stable. Try 2T. Also unlink your RAM and set it manually. That will make it easier for you to set things stable.

I would take out the other 2GB and store those some place cool.







Then you can run 2GB fully and it will actually run faster then the 4 GB. 4GB hasn't been utilized yet except for 3D production.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hey. No problems with 1302 yet.

Currently at 3.63 with 330x11 and my G.Skill 2x2 PC2-8000s running at 990 for 3:2. Everything else is as sigged.

I'll keep you all up-to-date.


----------



## orbiter

I actually notice quite a difference when reverting back to 2T even generaly in Windows things just work that little bit slower. I've been trying to crash the machine all day with the settings I've got (I understand they're probably a little low to you guys) but at present nothing, not even a twitch.

I did have the FSB/Mem clocks unlinked earlier and tried for a short while to get the system to boot properly with four sticks around 800MHz but it just doesn't like it. As its new and quite a challenge I'll still keep trying to make this work with four sticks at the proper speed, I've not even upped the voltage to the ram yet so It's probably running a little low on juice too. I guess once the newness has worn off though I'll probably start pushing my new board further and further











I suppose my 4 gigs of ram will be running a little cooler due to the reduced frequency (711MHz) and i'm not really encountering any heat issues, even though its right next SB heat pipe and NB. I have air blowing and sucking right across it all though and the heat pipe cooling fins are in the air flow too so hopefully all will be well for the moment.

I'll be in the market for one of those point and shoot thermometers once the OC fun starts in earnest though


----------



## slytown

Make sure you set your RAM voltage manually. This mobo undervolts.


----------



## USlatin

yea, and also make sure to check the actual voltage in the Dimms while Idle and Load and the Idle is off a bit and then there is a bit of droop under load...

Just in case the guys didn't already post it for you... use Everest Ultimate 2007 or later for accurate voltages


----------



## orbiter

Ok will do, Thanks guys.


----------



## anthonyl

I have just installed this board (Asus P5N32 E SLI) with an E6850 and 2Gb of Geil PC8500 ram.

Im not an overclocker as such and run at stock speeds.

The ram gets a bit hot to say the least..Geil says run them at 2.4volts which I set in the "Overvolting" section of the BIOS. Does the voltage need to be that high or can I lower it and see if the temps drop?

Im also running dual 8800GTX's.

Can anyone please tell me the best BIOS settings for this kind of setup please?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *orbiter* 
I actually notice quite a difference when reverting back to 2T (SNIP!)

Actually, if you're running at 711 with 1T, you're doing alright with 4 sticks. I often run 4x1 and I like to compare it to 2x2 (where I'm at right now), and I am simply unable to get decent benches at 4x1 without dropping to 1:1 with tighter timings. I would definitely look into 4-4-4-12-1T, and probably 3-3-3-9-1T if you can pull it off. Try to get stable with one of those. Let us/me know if you get there because then you can tweak some advanced timings that can squeeze a lot more out on this board.

***EDIT: Please note the attached for some examples.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *orbiter* 
I have air blowing and sucking (SNIP!)

I have blowing and sucking, too... but I prefer other-than-air solutions for those situations.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *anthonyl*


I have just installed this board (Asus P5N32 E SLI) with an E6850 and 2Gb of Geil PC8500 ram.

Im not an overclocker as such and run at stock speeds.

The ram gets a bit hot to say the least..Geil says run them at 2.4volts which I set in the "Overvolting" section of the BIOS. Does the voltage need to be that high or can I lower it and see if the temps drop?

Im also running dual 8800GTX's.

Can anyone please tell me the best BIOS settings for this kind of setup please?


Fill out your system specs here
http://www.overclock.net/specs.php
Read first page of thread and let us know where you're at.


----------



## DonNiger

Can not get the ClockGen to work! Doesn't recognize my MB (Striker). Any ideas?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

BIOS v1302 blows some serious goats. I can no longer POST to 360x10. That used to be no problem. Rolling-back.


----------



## orbiter

Quote:



Dostoyevsky77;2999078]Actually, if you're running at 711 with 1T, you're doing alright with 4 sticks. I often run 4x1 and I like to compare it to 2x2 (where I'm at right now), and I am simply unable to get decent benches at 4x1 without dropping to 1:1 with tighter timings. I would definitely look into 4-4-4-12-1T, and probably 3-3-3-9-1T if you can pull it off. Try to get stable with one of those. Let us/me know if you get there because then you can tweak some advanced timings that can squeeze a lot more out on this board.


I've tried those timings but the system will not boot at all with them







As I'm quite new to the OC malarky I could do with some advise from you guys please.

If my system is seemingly happy running at the 5.5.5.12 1T timing can i just unlink the FSB/Mem now and crank up the FSB whilst keeping an eye on temps and stability. I understand its a bit of a balancing act between the two but for a reasonably safe OC would this be ok, also I've tried the FSB up to 1300 and get an extra 20000+ Aquamark points although I don't want to fry anything. I think the CPU was up to 2.92GHz then and an E6600 should go a lot higher shouldn't it, even safely?

TIA for your advice guys

Orb


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Hey new little line here, but what is the fastest anybody here has gotton this board with a E2160 to?


----------



## brooking1169

hey do you have a link to the 1203 bios


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Et voila:

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...P5N32-E%20SLI/

EDIT: This came from Robilar or Little Rat. Either of them deserve your REP more than I do.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *orbiter* 
(SNIP!)
If my system is seemingly happy running at the 5.5.5.12 1T timing can i just unlink the FSB/Mem now and crank up the FSB whilst keeping an eye on temps and stability. I understand its a bit of a balancing act between the two but for a reasonably safe OC would this be ok, also I've tried the FSB up to 1300 and get an extra 20000+ Aquamark points although I don't want to fry anything. I think the CPU was up to 2.92GHz then and an E6600 should go a lot higher shouldn't it, even safely? (SNIP!)

It is absolutely ESSENTIAL that you leave FSB:RAM unlinked. This is true even if you are looking for a specific ratio. Try unlinking and try the things I mentioned. If I recall correctly, you're running your RAM at 711 for 1:1. You should AT LEAST get 4-4-4-12 on them. UNLINK, try 4-4-4-12 and report back.


----------



## USlatin

oh oh... I think I found a buyer for my MoBo.... it really suxs though having to OC and what not all over again... and for only a 0.3GHz increase...


----------



## orbiter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


It is absolutely ESSENTIAL that you leave FSB:RAM unlinked. This is true even if you are looking for a specific ratio. Try unlinking and try the things I mentioned. If I recall correctly, you're running your RAM at 711 for 1:1. You should AT LEAST get 4-4-4-12 on them. UNLINK, try 4-4-4-12 and report back.


Nooo... Sorry mate I must have been a little confusing in my posts.. At the moment I'm running FSB/Mem Linked @ 3:2. This was the only way I found that i could boot on first trying with the 4GB 5.5.5.12 1T Corsair memory. My FSB is 1066MHz and my mem is at 711MHz. As I said I'm quite new to all this OC stuff and would like a safe, not hot (If that's possible on this board







) OC.


----------



## brooking1169

Thx for the link. Now running at 3.2 (355x9)fsb







raised the vcore to 1.4


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *orbiter*


Nooo... Sorry mate I must have been a little confusing in my posts.. At the moment I'm running FSB/Mem Linked @ 3:2. This was the only way I found that i could boot on first trying with the 4GB 5.5.5.12 1T Corsair memory. My FSB is 1066MHz and my mem is at 711MHz. As I said I'm quite new to all this OC stuff and would like a safe, not hot (If that's possible on this board







) OC.


I've read your posts and I'm pretty sure your issue is your ram needs more volts. What Os are you running, and how many volts on your mem? You shouldn't be having so many issues unlinking your clocks.


----------



## kem-

I cant get my E4400 past 2.5ghz im VERY new to the oc world as you can tell ;P

this is my setup

E4400(stock fan)
P5n32-E SLI 1205 bios?
250GB WD hdd
P182SE case
7600GT
and 2X1GB G.SkiLL 6400 ram

any help would be nice..nice noob terms


----------



## anthonyl

OK..ram is running at 5-5-5-15-Auto and 2.1 volts.

In the BIOS there is something about "SLI MEMORY"..and as I have 2 x 8800GTX's I would like to utilise this..is it worth worrying about?

Should I just stick with the Geil PC8500 ULL that I have?

Any other BIOS settings I should know about?

Should I run the ram at 1T or 2T?


----------



## stefan9

Hi guys. got a question concerning this board and the installation of vista 64 bit and 4 gig of ram.

Now according to some there are some issues with vista installs and 4 gig ram with nforce chipsets. What I would like to know is this an issue with this board or not?

I know there's hotfix which fixes all these problems but unfortunately vlite doesn't allow integration of 64bit hotfixes from within a 32 bit os so I have to actually have vista 64 bit installed before creating a slipstreamed os.


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *anthonyl*


OK..ram is running at 5-5-5-15-Auto and 2.1 volts.

In the BIOS there is something about "SLI MEMORY"..and as I have 2 x 8800GTX's I would like to utilise this..is it worth worrying about?

Should I just stick with the Geil PC8500 ULL that I have?

Any other BIOS settings I should know about?

Should I run the ram at 1T or 2T?



Personally I feel like I'm getting the best performance out of my ram at higher speeds vs. tight timings. I run my ram at 2t but pushed my mem bus as far as I could and it seemed with each little increment that it loaded faster. As for the SLI capability on my ram, useless. Seemed like a good idea, I enabled it and if I remember correctly got instability issues with my overclock. Stick with the Geil I heard it rocks.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Antonyl:

SLI memory is a poorly-functioning gimmick that is supposed to automatically set your RAM timings. If you set them yourself (the recommended method), you leave SLI MEMORY DISABLED. It has nothing to do with your video cards; it is purely related to system memory, not video memory. 1T is much faster than 2T, but it generally requires significantly lower speeds. Most people don't even bother benchmarking at 1T. I highly recommend it (benching), but you are likely to find that you'll be better off at higher speeds. Especially with your setup, you're going to find much better performance at high speed with loose timings.

Stefan9:

The issue with Vista x64 and more than 3GB of RAM is the inability to even install the OS (BSOD or install stops responding). This doesn't happen every time (oddly, I had the problem during my very first x64 install, but not on any of the subsequent reinstalls). The solution is to pull a stick (or two so you're still dual-channel), install the OS, then install the hotfix. Then, you can re-insert the two extra sticks. I am unclear what you mean about not being able to install an x64 hotfix on a 32-bit OS. Vista x64 is 64 bit. The hotfix is only for x64. x86 doesn't need the hotfix.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *anthonyl*


OK..ram is running at 5-5-5-15-Auto and 2.1 volts.

In the BIOS there is something about "SLI MEMORY"..and as I have 2 x 8800GTX's I would like to utilise this..is it worth worrying about?

Should I just stick with the Geil PC8500 ULL that I have?

Any other BIOS settings I should know about?

Should I run the ram at 1T or 2T?


BIOS settings from page 1. Run tight timings at 1t if your ram is capable.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stefan9*


Hi guys. got a question concerning this board and the installation of vista 64 bit and 4 gig of ram.

Now according to some there are some issues with vista installs and 4 gig ram with nforce chipsets. What I would like to know is this an issue with this board or not?

I know there's hotfix which fixes all these problems but unfortunately vlite doesn't allow integration of 64bit hotfixes from within a 32 bit os so I have to actually have vista 64 bit installed before creating a slipstreamed os.


I never required a hotfix with this board and 4Gb with Vista64. If you have issues, I would think you would install with 2 and add the other 2 later.


----------



## stefan9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Antonyl:

SLI memory is a poorly-functioning gimmick that is supposed to automatically set your RAM timings. If you set them yourself (the recommended method), you leave SLI MEMORY DISABLED. It has nothing to do with your video cards; it is purely related to system memory, not video memory. 1T is much faster than 2T, but it generally requires significantly lower speeds. Most people don't even bother benchmarking at 1T. I highly recommend it (benching), but you are likely to find that you'll be better off at higher speeds. Especially with your setup, you're going to find much better performance at high speed with loose timings.

Stefan9:

The issue with Vista x64 and more than 3GB of RAM is the inability to even install the OS (BSOD or install stops responding). This doesn't happen every time (oddly, I had the problem during my very first x64 install, but not on any of the subsequent reinstalls). The solution is to pull a stick (or two so you're still dual-channel), install the OS, then install the hotfix. Then, you can re-insert the two extra sticks. I am unclear what you mean about not being able to install an x64 hotfix on a 32-bit OS. Vista x64 is 64 bit. The hotfix is only for x64. x86 doesn't need the hotfix.


What I mean is with creating a slipstreamed installation of vista 64 using vlite. For some reason can't integrate x64bit hotfixes into the slipstreamed installation from within vista 32 bit. I was planning on just adding the needed hotfix to a vista installation and seeing if by doing that it would install without needing to remove some ram.

But I get this message when trying to integrate hotfixes:64 bit hotfix and language integration can only be done in the 64bit host.

So it seems I will either get lucky or have to remove some ram to install vista 64 bit.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I understand now. Because my problem occurred in the very first stages of install, I think an install disc with the hotfix wouldn't work even if you succeeded in getting it on there to begin with. It's a good idea, though...


----------



## Mozzie

Ok maybe you guys gone be able to help me.
After loots of thinking I got new ram (see my sig) after changing as per guide in page 1

Quote:



SLI Ready Memory (also known as Enhanced Performance Profiles or EPP). This is a tool all the 680i boards share. In a nutshell, certain sets of ram have an extra chip that contains overclocking profiles based on factory testing of RAM with these boards. What this will allow you to do, is to auto overclock your ram without manually changing settings up to a factory recommended standard. You can squeeze more performance out of the ram by doing the settings manually but for first timers, its a handy tool. 
Corsair and OCZ both have a number of kits that are designated SLI Ready or EPP ready. In the bios on the Extreme Tweaker screen, there is a setting for SLI Ready Memory. Simply go to it, select, 0% Overclock, save reboot and you will see the ram overclocked.


I'm getting BSOD in Vista 32 when I bump my ram V to 2.1v as per...

Quote:



Important!: Always set ram voltage manually upon first boot. This board undervolts memory from factory settings when left to auto. For example, my ram is rated stock at 2.1 Volts. The auto setting had it running at 1.89. Even though my system ran fine, I had occasional crashes until I changed the volts to 2.1 manually.


My rig just reboot before going to widows.
Any idea is my ram dogy? or is the motherboard or I'm doig somthing wrong?

PS.
On same make ram but 800Mhz I could overclock very well is my board dont like 1066mhz?

Thanx


----------



## ncad

I have use all your setting, but after saving the setting and reboot, my system freezes at republic of gamer logo. I'm using 1305 BIOS revision and I don't change the memory clock, timing and voltage settings.


----------



## B33fcake

Hi everyone. I wanted to first say thanks to Robilar and others for starting and keeping this thread going. I love this motherboard and the overclocking has been super easy with all of the instruction here.

Got a question for anyone.... has there been any word on a BIOS release for this board to allow the 45nm's? Will that even be possible with this board?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Beefcake (LOL!):
It is possible out-of-the-box now. I'm not sure what BIOS revision enabled this, but you're aces. Check out the nifty graphic on the website. It's the very first bullet:
http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?mo...3&l2=11&l3=397

Ncad:
I think you mean the 1302 BIOS version. It sounds like you might have accidentally overclocked something or switched something off that needs to be on. Maybe you could report your full BIOS settings. Were you able to pass POST before you changed things?

Mozzie:
Do not set SLI Memory. Even to 0%, this will mess everything up. DISABLE it. Please tell us what you have set in your FSB/MEMORY CLOCK screen. Also, what timings do you have set in your MEMORY TIMINGS screen?


----------



## B33fcake

Dostoyevsky77 said:


> Beefcake (LOL!):
> It is possible out-of-the-box now. I'm not sure what BIOS revision enabled this, but you're aces. Check out the nifty graphic on the website. It's the very first bullet:
> http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?mo...3&l2=11&l3=397
> 
> Yikes! Ok.... don't ban me from the thread! LOL. Guess I missed that one. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## Mozzie

I have all on AUTO I just need to my ram o run on 1066mhz currently running at 800Mhz !


----------



## stefan9

In the end I had no problems. Vista 64 bit installed fine and I didn't need to remove any ram.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Mozzie:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Do not set SLI Memory. Even to 0%, this will mess everything up. DISABLE it. *Please tell us what you have set in your FSB/MEMORY CLOCK screen*. Also, what timings do you have set in your MEMORY TIMINGS screen?


----------



## [FDG]Explosion

Anyone have any idea why my board wont even post after i touch the FSB most of the time. I want to run 3.5ghz 24/7 but its annoying to have to spend 15 minutes getting the board to even post when i go to turn it on..... *EDIT* OC is stable, made a 5 hour orthos run last night with it.....

Sorry if this has been posted earlier, i have very little desire to skim 350 some-odd pages though.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[FDG]Explosion*


Anyone have any idea why my board wont even post after i touch the FSB most of the time. I want to run 3.5ghz 24/7 but its annoying to have to spend 15 minutes getting the board to even post when i go to turn it on..... *EDIT* OC is stable, made a 5 hour orthos run last night with it.....

Sorry if this has been posted earlier, i have very little desire to skim 350 some-odd pages though.










Try this thread
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...0i-thread.html


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Well... I guess you won't get to see how the QX9650 performs on this board, after all:
http://event.asus.com/mb/45nm/

It seems Intel dropped 680i from their 45nm quad lineup in retribution for Nvidia not releasing the SLI license to Intel chipsets. This after the Intel seed release was fully-compatible with 680i. Does this spell the beginning of the end for Nvidia chipsets, or is it merely a temporary spat between bratty manufacturers?

This means my next upgrade will be a downgrade: 65nm quad -> 45nm C2D. Hmm...


----------



## USlatin

have you guys tried running a single card on the lower x16 slot?


----------



## Mozzie

ok I update my bios to 1305 my seting are:

ram timings: 5,5,5,15 2T ram V 2.1 ram fsb 1066 , ok that where I have problem when I set to Unlink i got BSOD when Linked all good but still show 800Mhz


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I'm sorry. I guess I'm not asking the right question. When I ask, "please tell us what you have set in your FSB/MEMORY CLOCK screen," I mean can you please tell me what your settings are in the FSB/MEMORY CONFIG screen in the BIOS. There are three or four values, depending on if you're linked or not. Tell us the things in BLUE.


----------



## Mozzie

Would you be so kind and give me best setings for my mobo with my ram to get 1066mhz

ok thats my setsings in FSB/MEMORY CONFIG

FSB-Memory Clock Mode - Linked
FSB - Memory Ratio - Auto
FSB - 1066
Actual FSb - 1066
Mem DDR Mhz - Linked
Actual MEM DDR Mhz - 800

In this settings all good but when set to 1:1 my actual going to 1066 and get BSOD


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Well, there are many. The thing is that overclocking your CPU will give you a much better performance bump than overclocking RAM, so the general convention is to overclock your CPU first. That's assuming you want to OC your CPU in the first place.

If you haven't yet or don't intend to, then we REALLY need to take a look at what you have in that FSB/MEMORY CONFIG screen. It's why I keep asking, and I don't understand why you won't tell me... is it a secret? For starters, you should be UNLINKED at 1066 on your FSB. Leaving the RAM at 1066 should not be a problem, so make sure you're UNLINKED first. Then, you should DISABLE SLI MEMORY. Then, you should MANUALLY put in the timings into the MEMORY TIMINGS window of 5-5-5-15-2T, then finally you should put the voltage in MANUALLY to either 2.1 or 2.2 (depending on which version of Dominator 8500C5Ds you have).

The thing is, if you DO keep your FSB at stock, you're going to be at 1:2 ratio for FSB:RAM (FSB of 1066 QDR = 266, RAM of 1066 DDR = 533). That sounds like a lot (a LOT) of overhead RAM bandwidth that might be better-served with tighter timings and lower speeds. You'll look into that, of course, once you get stable. Follow the paragraph above, and if you still have problems, let me know what version of Dominators you have (it is on the side of the modules themselves, v1.x or v2.x).

Cheers,

d


----------



## r3skyline

has anyone else had problems with pci slots not working? i keep trying to use my xfi soundcard but when i plug it in, it will not boot at all! i take it out and it boots up immediately? is this common, im fairly sure my new psu has enough power pushin thru it all (i have watercooling as well) gamerxtreme 700w. so i dont know, im stuck with using the stock sound card that comes with it but i personally do not like it and i feel like i wasted my money on the x fi (when i know i didnt because sound quality is amazing! i use this as a media pc as well)


----------



## Mozzie

Thanks a lot !

Thats the settings I'm using but give me BSOD.
Ok I was using E6550 1333Mhz with 800mhz ram I change my CPU and ram without reinstaling Vista you think that could be the propblem?
I try all settings I almost got to windows but just freez on me or I get BOSD I try 2.1V , 2.15V Linked , Unliked, with 1333FSB I'm lost here.
I'm gone do my vista over and try again , if you have any ideas pls let me know.
I thank you for all your help.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

No worries. You might have bad RAM... or you have version 1.x of the C5Ds (which require 2.2v). It's always a good idea to reinstall OS after any major hardware change, but that SHOULDN'T be the problem. Do it anyway (it doesn't hurt anything; I reinstall at least once a month). But try running memtest at 1066. If THAT fails, you have bad RAM (and we can recommend better and cheaper RAM than what you have). If it PASSES, then we need to do further troubleshooting.

Please keep your sig updated as we troubleshoot this. Put the CPU and your current FSB (even if it's stock). An out-of-date sig is worse than no sig, because advice that pertains to a 266 FSB is going to vary from advice that is relevant to 333, for example.

r3skyline:
I have not had any problems. But I've only ever used two slots: my top PCI-E and my bottom PCI. Perhaps you need to check to make certain you didn't disable something in BIOS. There might be an IRQ conflict as well, but that shouldn't prevent you from POSTing. Perhaps it has something to do with the card you're trying to install. What is it, and does it work in other slots/different systems?


----------



## Mozzie

ok I'm doing Vista now than I gone run memtest Ver of my ram is Ver2.2 last digits are 07423007 if this help anything.

Ok I will update my sig after I finish with Vista and memtest.

Thanx


----------



## Mozzie

ok did vista and same story BSOD thats my settings:

Timing:5.5.5.15 2T @ 2.1V
FSB (i try 1066,1200,1333 Mhz Unlinked and Linked)
RAM - 1066

If I run same timings @ 2.1V with FSB 1066 on Auto or unlinked with 800mhz ram all good.
Gone test my ram now I have Memtest-86 v3.3 is this best ram test progy?
If not with one is?

Thanx again


----------



## USlatin

Anyone ever try a single card on the lower x16 slot?

Anyone?


----------



## Mozzie

Ok I feel like a n00b now I test my ram at 800mhz and yeah all good lol

Ok did test wit memtest with this setings and WOW at report error from #1 test

Timing:5.5.5.15 2T @ 2.1V
FSB 1066Mhz Unlinked
RAM - 1066

Thanx a lot fopr all your help.

What RAM should I get?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

USlatin: Not me. Sorry.

Mozzie: No good. Send it back. Are you still in the RETURN window (not the EXCHANGE window)? If you are, my recommendation is some Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500. If you want more opinions, get a link to your favorite eTailer that ships to SA and start a new thread here:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-memory/


----------



## Pyr0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Anyone ever try a single card on the lower x16 slot?

Anyone?

i have a 7950GT card in the lower x16 slot at the moment *shrug*


----------



## Mozzie

I contact my supplier they will replace my ram but I will ask them to change to your recomandation (I own PC shop in South Africa www.matrixwarehouse.co.za).
Just RMA here takes like 21days gone run for now OCZ Reaper 1066 just got them in store.
I just wane thank you for all your help.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mozzie* 
I contact my supplier they will replace my ram but I will ask them to change to your recomandation (I own PC shop in South Africa www.matrixwarehouse.co.za).
Just RMA here takes like 21days gone run for now OCZ Reaper 1066 just got them in store.
I just wane thank you for all your help.

The Reapers do very well on this board.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I also think that would be an excellent choice. (And you can't argue with someone who's broken most of the records on OCN!) Reapers are Micron D9s, so you're already better-off than with the Dominators (which use an IC that rhymes with "Quiznos"... dunn'a remember).

Incidentally, you ARE running only 2x1GB, right? Not 4, right? Just checking...


----------



## r3skyline

Quote:

i keep trying to use my xfi soundcard but when i plug it in, it will not boot at all! i take it out and it boots up immediately?
that was the question, how come i cannot boot with my soundcard installed? ive tried both pci slots and nothing......and not starting today, even with the stock soundcard it wont boot, im just gonna give up on this board and buy a p35/p5k board now....


----------



## Mozzie

So my ram cooler not gone fit?


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pyr0* 
i have a 7950GT card in the lower x16 slot at the moment *shrug*

so that's the only card in the rig?

that's good news if so Pyro
*
rep+* for the info bro


----------



## Lordremcok

Hi, i recenly bought my quad q6600 and im having problems ( even after reading your post ) to overclock it to 3, mabe to 3,2

i tried in bios 1302 , it stucks nomater what at about 1280*9 fsb
with different settings of voltages

in my desprate way , in the end i used AI booster , but when i set 333 fsb

asus probe suddenly showed me the memory voltage dropped to 1.8 ( coudn't unlinked them, as you can in bios )

please help
thanks


----------



## Pyr0

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
so that's the only card in the rig?

that's good news if so Pyro
*
rep+* for the info bro

yup, it's only card in the board at the moment
i put the gfx in the lower slot when i moved the board from my main rig to the test bench so i could give the northbridge a bit of room for extra cooling
thanks for the rep m8


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r3skyline* 
that was the question, how come i cannot boot with my soundcard installed? ive tried both pci slots and nothing......and not starting today, even with the stock soundcard it wont boot, im just gonna give up on this board and buy a p35/p5k board now....









Are you positive the sound card is good?


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pyr0*


yup, it's only card in the board at the moment
i put the gfx in the lower slot when i moved the board from my main rig to the test bench so i could give the northbridge a bit of room for extra cooling
thanks for the rep m8










Exactomundo bro!

I too am looking for the dang hot-arse surface of the PCB of my card to be further away from the intake to my Noctua, especially now that I found a 60 x 60 x 15mm fan that pushed about 8CMF more... it would be sucking way too much hot air and what's the point in that?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


The Reapers do very well on this board.


Agree in the reapers.we have some great scores all over this forum.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lordremcok*


Hi, i recenly bought my quad q6600 and im having problems ( even after reading your post ) to overclock it to 3, mabe to 3,2

i tried in bios 1302 , it stucks nomater what at about 1280*9 fsb
with different settings of voltages

in my desprate way , in the end i used AI booster , but when i set 333 fsb

asus probe suddenly showed me the memory voltage dropped to 1.8 ( coudn't unlinked them, as you can in bios )

please help
thanks


Have you made the necessary adjustments on page 1?
If you tried them and then changed back after an unsuccessful oc attempt, put them back.
Dosto and I are the only ones that I've seen that have tried the latest BIOS, and both of us reverted back to 1203. I'm not saying the 1302 doesn't work, I'm saying we know the 1203 does.


----------



## USlatin

so I switched it and there is like a freaggin' foot between them now lol

I didn't let it run long cause I got my DP coming and I need to re-install the drivers but here is a good long before with a short after both at 76F ambient

since the before never dipped under 25 it seems I can expect about a 3C drop!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


(SNIP!) I too am looking for the dang hot-arse surface of the PCB of my card to be further away from the intake to my Noctua, especially now that I found a 60 x 60 x 15mm fan that pushed about 8CMF more... it would be sucking way too much hot air and what's the point in that?


Maybe it's time for one of these:
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Zalman/ZM-VF1000LED

Incidentally, I still want your Noctua. I hope (selfishly) you don't sell your board until after the holidays... my pocketbook has become a black-hole gateway into the seventh dimension, LOL!


----------



## Pyr0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Exactomundo bro!

I too am looking for the dang hot-arse surface of the PCB of my card to be further away from the intake to my Noctua, especially now that I found a 60 x 60 x 15mm fan that pushed about 8CMF more... it would be sucking way too much hot air and what's the point in that?


Very similar setup to myself, I replaced my NB heatsink with a Thermalright HR-05









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Dosto and I are the only ones that I've seen that have tried the latest BIOS, and both of us reverted back to 1203. I'm not saying the 1302 doesn't work, I'm saying we know the 1203 does.


I've also tried the 1302 BIOS, but I left it on there since I'm using a E6750 in it at the moment.
I haven't been able to tell if there was any improvement in clocking or not as I flashed as soon as I put the chip in there...
But had no problems at 450x8 with mem at 1200 5-4-4-12 (HCI memtested 12hrs)


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

That's a nice OC on your E6750. Incidentally, Robilar mentioned his "sources" said 1302 would resolve some quad OC issues. Since Lilratt & I both took issue with our quad OC, it may be that C2Ds still take the cake on this BIOS update.

In the light of the recent spat between Intel and Nvidia, I wonder if the war between quad performance and SLI has been ongoing for longer than we've taken note. The current and emerging Intel chipsets destroy Nvidia on a one-to-one comparison. For those of us without SLI, it almost makes no sense to stick with Nvidia mobos... but I digress...


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


That's a nice OC on your E6750. Incidentally, Robilar mentioned his "sources" said 1302 would resolve some quad OC issues. Since Lilratt & I both took issue with our quad OC, it may be that C2Ds still take the cake on this BIOS update.

In the light of the recent spat between Intel and Nvidia, I wonder if the war between quad performance and SLI has been ongoing for longer than we've taken note. The current and emerging Intel chipsets destroy Nvidia on a one-to-one comparison. For those of us without SLI, it almost makes no sense to stick with Nvidia mobos... but I digress...


If it wasn't for SLI, there's no way I would have opted for an Nvidia chipset over an Intel.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


That's a nice OC on your E6750. Incidentally, Robilar mentioned his "sources" said 1302 would resolve some quad OC issues. Since Lilratt & I both took issue with our quad OC, it may be that C2Ds still take the cake on this BIOS update..........


Well all I know is that that BIOS was a no-no for both of you so screw that...

Also, I think I might stick it out here at 3.3GHz for a while, at least till I got everything else set up the way I want it... *monitors:* selling both 22"s and getting a second Gateway 24"... *sound:* going to Event 20/20's through my US-122

but then I am going to an ABIT so I can hit 3.6 stable no q's asked... IIIIIFFFFF anyone ever buys my board


----------



## cognoscenti

Anyone know if its worthwhile moving from 1203 bios to 1205 or 1302?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Anyone know if its worthwhile moving from 1203 bios to 1205 or 1302?


Not in my opinion.


----------



## Lordremcok

i have bios 1302 you said it is not good for oc

ok i searched asus site and maybe im blind but coud anybody paste mi link to download page ?

or maybe there is even beter bios for tweaking?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lordremcok* 
i have bios 1302 you said it is not good for oc

ok i searched asus site and maybe im blind but coud anybody paste mi link to download page ?

or maybe there is even beter bios for tweaking?









ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...P5N32-E%20SLI/
1203


----------



## Lordremcok

thank you


----------



## orbiter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Actually, if you're running at 711 with 1T, you're doing alright with 4 sticks. I often run 4x1 and I like to compare it to 2x2 (where I'm at right now), and I am simply unable to get decent benches at 4x1 without dropping to 1:1 with tighter timings. I would definitely look into 4-4-4-12-1T, and probably 3-3-3-9-1T if you can pull it off. Try to get stable with one of those. Let us/me know if you get there because then you can tweak some advanced timings that can squeeze a lot more out on this board.


Hi again you guys

Some help if i may please..My settings are now...

Unlinked
FSB - 1200MHz
Mem - 600MHz
Multiplier x9

Mem timings 4.4.4.12 1T

I am happy with my quiet PC right now and do have quite a bit of extra performance from the standard settings. I am just after some reassurance that this is OK for a safe low 'fan' noise, low heat OC, and I have done it the right way around via my settings?

Many Thanks for any advice

Orb


----------



## Lordremcok

i have bios 1203
now i have set memory to defaults, unlinked to test my cpu
that is overclocked from 2,4 to 3,2

and i'm shaking my pents when i turn on asus pcprobe
it goes red on NB SB showing 4 volts ??

the heck why ?

you know any other software for checking voltages ?
or maybe i should set it manualy under bios

my current settings are all auto
except for ram ( factory defaults ) voltage set manualy to 2.1 OCZ 2gb mem
cpu fsb (1424)356*9 1.3v
AND THE REST PC PROBE SHOWS 4 volts ( except for cpus )
HELP


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *orbiter* 
Hi again you guys

Some help if i may please..My settings are now...

Unlinked
FSB - 1200MHz
Mem - 600MHz
Multiplier x9

Mem timings 4.4.4.12 1T

I am happy with my quiet PC right now and do have quite a bit of extra performance from the standard settings. I am just after some reassurance that this is OK for a safe low 'fan' noise, low heat OC, and I have done it the right way around via my settings?

Many Thanks for any advice

Orb

What are your temps on the cpu?
You should be fine at 2.7 and have quite a bit of headroom.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lordremcok* 
i have bios 1203
now i have set memory to defaults, unlinked to test my cpu
that is overclocked from 2,4 to 3,2

and i'm shaking my pents when i turn on asus pcprobe
it goes red on NB SB showing 4 volts ??

the heck why ?

you know any other software for checking voltages ?
or maybe i should set it manualy under bios

my current settings are all auto
except for ram ( factory defaults ) voltage set manualy to 2.1 OCZ 2gb mem
cpu fsb (1424)356*9 1.3v
AND THE REST PC PROBE SHOWS 4 volts ( except for cpus )
HELP

Everest is good for voltages, temps, etc.
Don't worry about PCProbe and red.
Most of us set our voltages manually. Robilar's suggestions on page 1 of this thread should be fine for what you are after.
What are your temps?


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lordremcok*


i have bios 1203
now i have set memory to defaults, unlinked to test my cpu
that is overclocked from 2,4 to 3,2

and i'm shaking my pents when i turn on asus pcprobe
it goes red on NB SB showing 4 volts ??

the heck why ?

you know any other software for checking voltages ?
or maybe i should set it manualy under bios

my current settings are all auto
except for ram ( factory defaults ) voltage set manualy to 2.1 OCZ 2gb mem
cpu fsb (1424)356*9 1.3v
AND THE REST PC PROBE SHOWS 4 volts ( except for cpus )
HELP


From my experience, this means that something's screwed in the BIOS.
In my case, I got rid of faulty readings by saving settings to a profile, resetting CMOS, then restoring settings from the profile.


----------



## slytown

Always set voltages manually, especially RAM on this board. Don't overclock with anything on Auto, except maybe RAM timings. You'll threaten stability if you don't. Also, don't rely on monitors. You only need them for temps. Just set everything manually.


----------



## orbiter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


What are your temps on the cpu?
You should be fine at 2.7 and have quite a bit of headroom.


My temps are...

CPU 29c / 52c fully loaded
Mobo - 30 - 35c


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *orbiter*


My temps are...

CPU 29c / 52c fully loaded
Mobo - 30 - 35c


I would think that 3.0 is within your reach depending on how much vcore, if any, you need for stability.


----------



## orbiter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


I would think that 3.0 is within your reach depending on how much vcore, if any, you need for stability.


It certainly is Litlratt as I have had it up to 3.2Ghz already for a short while still with good temps, but after reading some of the storys about heat around the northbridge I just wanted a safe overclock without stressing components too much.

Is having the mem running at 600MHz and the FSB running at 1200MHz the correct way for this oc?

Also can someone advise on whether having the memory set at 4.4.4.12 1T creates any more heat or stresses it much more than than having it set to 5.5.5.12 1T?

Cheers guys


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *orbiter*


It certainly is Litlratt as I have had it up to 3.2Ghz already for a short while still with good temps, but after reading some of the storys about heat around the northbridge I just wanted a safe overclock without stressing components too much.

Is having the mem running at 600MHz and the FSB running at 1200MHz the correct way for this oc?


The only way to tell is to test.
Everest, Sandra and SuperPi runs are some of the better ways.

Quote:



Also can someone advise on whether having the memory set at 4.4.4.12 1T creates any more heat or stresses it much more than than having it set to 5.5.5.12 1T?

Cheers guys


Not that I'm aware of.


----------



## Lordremcok

any program that measure stress under vista 64 ?

the one everybody uses here does not work under vista 64


----------



## Litlratt

Prime quad and Orthos both work in Vista 64.
With Orthos, you have to run 2 instances from different directories and set the affinity through task manager for the second one for cores 2 and 3.


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


Anyone know if its worthwhile moving from 1203 bios to 1205 or 1302?


1203 still seems the best. I tried 1302 to see if it was the magic bullet to support 45nm quads, but it wasn't, hence my migration to X38 (for now).

This is really a sweet board, overclocks extremely well, but I miss SLI for a variety of reasons.

I read somewhere that there may be a release to support 45nm quads soon, the problem appears to be a last minute change in the microcode by Intel that has everyone scrambling.

If a bios shows up for the 32E that supports 45nm quads, I'll switch back in a heartbeat and return this board, (I've got 30 days.)

Otherwise, I'll wait for 780i which should be soon..


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

45nm quads will never be supported by current (and maybe any future) Nvidia chipsets. It's not a question of hardware support. It's a spat between the companies, probably regarding Nvidia's unwillingness to license SLI to the Intel chipsets. The QX9650 Intel seed sample was 100% compatible with 680i, but the retail version is not.

See here:

http://event.asus.com/mb/45nm/

Scroll down for motherboard compatibility and note which chipsets support 45nm quads, and which don't.

Cheers,

d


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


45nm quads will never be supported by current (and maybe any future) Nvidia chipsets.


C'mon 780i !!!!!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


45nm quads will never be supported by current (and maybe any future) Nvidia chipsets. It's not a question of hardware support. It's a spat between the companies, probably regarding Nvidia's unwillingness to license SLI to the Intel chipsets. The QX9650 Intel seed sample was 100% compatible with 680i, but the retail version is not.

See here:

http://event.asus.com/mb/45nm/

Scroll down for motherboard compatibility and note which chipsets support 45nm quads, and which don't.

Cheers,

d


The 780i chipsets ARE going to support 45nm quads.


----------



## orbiter

Which way do you guys go about flashing your BIOS's on this mobo please? I got BIOS 1103 and would like to flash to 1203 which seems to be the most popular around here.

Could you give full instructions or point me in the right direction as I don't want to foul this up









Many TIA

Orb


----------



## Pyr0

I put the BIOS file onto a USB stick. Reboot the PC, go into the BIOS and use the "EZ Flash 2" option under the "Tools" heading.
some would also advise not flashing while overclocked and to load setup defaults first or clear the CMOS


----------



## colt1911

After buying this board to run a Q9550 on it when they come out and now finding that they will not support the new quads, I 'm looking for a decent overclocking P35 or X38 board. Can someone recommend one ? I may even switch to ATI cards , because frankly I tried of trying to make SLI work with the cheap a** driver support from Nvidia and Vista.


----------



## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *orbiter*


My temps are...

CPU 29c / 52c fully loaded
Mobo - 30 - 35c


Try and stay below 400 FSB. After that you'll need better chipset cooling to get to 500.


----------



## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *colt1911*


After buying this board to run a Q9550 on it when they come out and now finding that they will not support the new quads, I 'm looking for a decent overclocking P35 or X38 board. Can someone recommend one ? I may even switch to ATI cards , because frankly I tried of trying to make SLI work with the cheap a** driver support from Nvidia and Vista.


You don't need to switch to ATi. Nvidia is in the lead right now for drivers and benching overall, though the 2900xts have top benches.

This board has puts stress on the RAM and chipsets with quads. I would get the P5K deluxe or the new Asus P5E X38. Both work about the same, you just can spend a little more for the X38. If you have the money for the Q9550 and a new board, why not upgrade your VGA to an 8800 Ultra too?

Your set-up is great now anyways. If you don't have your heart set yet on a quad, just upgrade your chipsets on this board, get an Ultra, and find a better soundcard. You can get that E6850 to 4 Ghz. I believe in you.


----------



## orbiter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pyr0*


I put the BIOS file onto a USB stick. Reboot the PC, go into the BIOS and use the "EZ Flash 2" option under the "Tools" heading.
some would also advise not flashing while overclocked and to load setup defaults first or clear the CMOS


Cheers Pyr0







got 1203 now









Rep+ for ya

Orb


----------



## kem-

since you say auto voltage is bad..what are the voltages susposed to be mine are all set to auto..


----------



## slytown

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kem-* 
since you say auto voltage is bad..what are the voltages susposed to be mine are all set to auto..

Check the first post by Robilar for recommended voltages.


----------



## kem-

Slytown: http://www.overclock.net/attachments...de-image-6.jpg

that one correcT?


----------



## kem-

no matter what i do i cant get past 2.5ghz the NB gets so hot i can fry a egg on it! oh well perhaps a new heatsink and a new nb will do the trick, i ordered a tuniq not sure what to get for the NB... any suggestions?


----------



## Robilar

Check page 1 of my guide. Thermaltake extreme spirit II, the thermalright HR series are both excellent. One of our members indicated the jingting fits well also.


----------



## slytown

Yeah, I think I"m going to get those jingtings and a pair of HR-09s.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slytown* 
Yeah, I think I"m going to get those jingtings and a pair of HR-09s.









The HR-09s won't fit without major modification to them.


----------



## USlatin

I say Noctua on the NB FTW









then Evercool VGA for the SB since that's plenty

and for the mosfets... Robilar, remember ho I kept trying to use the copper Swiftechs?
well i had it... today one of them fell off again... I ripped them off and slapped on the ones everyone else is using, the black aluminum ones...


----------



## Pyr0

ive been using those those copper swiftech sinks on my mosfets for months now and had no problems with them sticking (or falling off) *shrug*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *orbiter*


Cheers Pyr0







got 1203 now









Rep+ for ya

Orb


good news, happy to help m8, thanks


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


45nm quads will never be supported by current (and maybe any future) Nvidia chipsets.


I guess This pretty much sums it up.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuclearjock*


I guess This pretty much sums it up.


6 series, not 7.


----------



## Mmmm~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
The HR-09s won't fit without major modification to them.

have you tried flipping them over? what parts hit what exactly? got pictures?









*edit* ad which type did you use? theres 3


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mmmm~* 
have you tried flipping them over? what parts hit what exactly? got pictures?









I bought some HR 09S and Hr 09U. Still have them.
I can't remember what I needed to do to get them to fit, but it was more work than I was willing to do at the time.
I've got two sets of each if you're interested.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
I say Noctua on the NB FTW









then Evercool VGA for the SB since that's plenty

and for the mosfets... Robilar, remember ho I kept trying to use the copper Swiftechs?
well i had it... today one of them fell off again... I ripped them off and slapped on the ones everyone else is using, the black aluminum ones...









Hmm mine never fell off.. Of course I did a warm up run (two hours orthos with vrm's naked and then immediately applied sinks while case was horizontal, then another two hours orthos to warm up the glue, then shut off and leave overnight horizontal). I actually had to work at getting them off when I sold the board.


----------



## slytown

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
I bought some HR 09S and Hr 09U. Still have them.
I can't remember what I needed to do to get them to fit, but it was more work than I was willing to do at the time.
I've got two sets of each if you're interested.

Even the S series didn't fit? How so? If you still have them PM me.


----------



## Pyr0

With the first revisions (no idea if things are better now), although the Striker and the P5N32-E were on the compatibility list, the short side of the coolers wouldn't cover all the MOSFETs, and the long side wouldn't allow installation of the pushpins into the mobo.

Some people used Dremels to make them fit around obstructing capacitors and/or inductors and had to create their own methods of securing them on one end. I've seen people use a cable tie, or a screw and piece of metal, while the other end used the supplied mounting hardware

eg.
diff board, but here's one using a cable tie: http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...t/S5000549.jpg


----------



## hybrid4g

I will receive some Razor goodies shortly (keyboard and mouse), yet I am on the 1203 Version of this BIOS.

Has anyone had any experience with any difficulties using these products with this motherboard? Did the 1205 BIOS fix the problem?


----------



## Pyr0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hybrid4g*


I will receive some Razor goodies shortly (keyboard and mouse), yet I am on the 1203 Version of this BIOS.

Has anyone had any experience with any difficulties using these products with this motherboard? Did the 1205 BIOS fix the problem?










I had to update the BIOS from 1203 because the board refused to boot with a Razer Copperhead plugged in


----------



## r3skyline

Quote:

Are you positive the sound card is good?
yep because i just sold my p5n32e and upgraded to the x38 chipset and the soundcard works perfect, so i am now out of this game..... sad but owell, was buggy from the start....


----------



## orbiter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


Try and stay below 400 FSB. After that you'll need better chipset cooling to get to 500.



Thanks slytown,

According to CPUz I'm currently at 300MHz with the FSB at 1200MHz and the mem at 677MHz so I assume I'm in a pretty safe place at the moment with the fans being able to run quietly along with a slight OC.

One thing I did notice after flashing bios was that apart from three reamining fan speed RPM's the rest have gone







When I was using the original BIOS that came with the mobo (1103) I used to have RPM readings for all the fan plugs. Even when I backflash now to 1103 there are only three fan RPM readouts. Anyone else notice this?


----------



## orbiter

Just noticed after flashing back to bios 1203 after a USB issue with 1302 all my fan RPM's readouts are back again







I dunno what happened after I lost them after a few previous flashes, but at least they're back now.


----------



## kem-

Can i use 2 of these Thermalright HR-05-SLI Chipset Cooler along with a Tuniq Tower on the P5n32-E


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kem-*


Can i use 2 of these Thermalright HR-05-SLI Chipset Cooler along with a Tuniq Tower on the P5n32-E


Depends on the number of video cards.


----------



## kem-

only got 1 7600GT gonna get a new one prob around Feb/March not really looking into SLI motherboard was a gift


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kem-*


only got 1 7600GT gonna get a new one prob around Feb/March not really looking into SLI motherboard was a gift


Then yes, you should be able to.


----------



## Rochfordrambo

hi all just want some advice to where i am going wrong or not as the case may be 
I have stable oc @ 3.5 on a E6850 but thats about it cant seem to run stable any higher . i am on air cooling Bigtyphoon 120 and only on stock on the nb and sb . i have followed the exellent guide at the start of the thread but have now come too a standstill







any advice









fsb @ 1560 mhz 
multi @ x9
Ram unlinked and running @stock
bios 1205
Vcore @ 1.4125.and going higher seems to be no help ?
Nb @ 1.40
sb @ 1.55
1.2 hvt @ 1.30
and my temps are good 
idle 34
load 54 ( after 4 hours prime & orthos)
mb 39

i suppose i should be happy with this oc but feel i should be getting more


----------



## trueg50

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kem-*


Can i use 2 of these Thermalright HR-05-SLI Chipset Cooler along with a Tuniq Tower on the P5n32-E


Get the IFX models, and get the non-SLI variations. From the location of the southbridge, it seems the SLI model moves its self into the way of the other cards.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rochfordrambo* 
hi all just want some advice to where i am going wrong or not as the case may be
I have stable oc @ 3.5 on a E6850 but thats about it cant seem to run stable any higher . i am on air cooling Bigtyphoon 120 and only on stock on the nb and sb . i have followed the exellent guide at the start of the thread but have now come too a standstill







any advice








(SNIP!)
i suppose i should be happy with this oc but feel i should be getting more









Hi. First, don't settle with any OC you feel you should be getting more from.

I had to go much higher voltage than most people were reporting to get my E6750 stable at 3.82. I think Lilratt had the same issue. Also, a big deal when you're at such high FSB is to knock NB up a little to 1.45. Make sure you have some aftermarket cooling when you do that. I have one of the teeny Tt Spirit IIs, and even the very tip of it is too hot to touch.

***EDIT: LOL at your avatar...

***EDIT 2: I think I just got flamed. Can you guys tell me if I was off the mark here, because I thought I was giving good advice. OP has a P5N32-E, and I was trying to recommend some RAM timings for a quad:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-memor...-timing-2.html


----------



## Rochfordrambo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Hi. First, don't settle with any OC you feel you should be getting more from.

I had to go much higher voltage than most people were reporting to get my E6750 stable at 3.82. I think Lilratt had the same issue. Also, a big deal when you're at such high FSB is to knock NB up a little to 1.45. Make sure you have some aftermarket cooling when you do that. I have one of the teeny Tt Spirit IIs, and even the very tip of it is too hot to touch.

***EDIT: LOL at your avatar...

***EDIT 2: I think I just got flamed. Can you guys tell me if I was off the mark here, because I thought I was giving good advice. OP has a P5N32-E, and I was trying to recommend some RAM timings for a quad:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-memor...-timing-2.html


Thanks for the advice i did think nb and sb were holding me back as i only have stock cooling on them my problem is that any after market cooling is not easy as i have x2 xfx 8800 gts 640mb so it dont leave me a lot of room


----------



## kem-

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trueg50* 
Get the IFX models, and get the non-SLI variations. From the location of the southbridge, it seems the SLI model moves its self into the way of the other cards.


Alright so i just added 2 Thermalright HR-05/IFX High Riser Northbridge Chipset Cooler Passive 80MM *Fan Not Included* to my cart, gonna get the gf to get me it for xmas


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
***EDIT 2: I think I just got flamed. Can you guys tell me if I was off the mark here, because I thought I was giving good advice. OP has a P5N32-E, and I was trying to recommend some RAM timings for a quad:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-memor...-timing-2.html

Sounds like it. Your reply to him was appropriate.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rochfordrambo* 
Thanks for the advice i did think nb and sb were holding me back as i only have stock cooling on them my problem is that any after market cooling is not easy as i have x2 xfx 8800 gts 640mb so it dont leave me a lot of room









Get ES II for nb and Evercool for sb.


----------



## USlatin




----------



## slytown

You don't need to worry about the SB if you are only overclocking the CPU, so you can get something cheap for the SB.


----------



## Warpony

Hi people

First time poster that found this forum in search of someone who can shed some light as to why my rig won't OC more or less at all. (See specs in sig).

I'm new to OCing, but have read up quite alot, i understand the principles and i'm eager to learn more.

I've for the past two days tried to OC my rig and it's going very bad (as in no success, not frying anything (yet







) )

Everything recommended is Disabled. PCI-E locked at 101Mhz.
RAM running at 4-4-4-12, 2.1v, 800Mhz (Running this unlinked for most attempt so memory isnt an issue. I'm aware this isnt "optimal" as far as performance goes, but my problems seems to be with the mobo/cpu or alike, so i'm eliminating memories from the equation for now.)

Right now the system is running at:

Multiple: 9
FSB: 300Mhz
vCore: 1.35v
Rest of voltages set at auto.

That this pathetic OC is running stable (temps of like 40 full load, no Orthos errors) isnt much of a suprise, the suprise comes next..

If i reach the FSB with as little as 25mhz (to 325) the comp doesnt last long at all. The BIOS starts locking up at boot, and if i reboot it freezes before i even can get into setup. (The anti-OC thing doesnt kick in when the BIOS starts loading) The solution is to let the comp rest 1 min, then QUICKLY get into BIOS, turn down the FSB, and quick reboot and then it's stable again.

Oki, so i raise vCore and try upping the FSB by 25mhz again (as i've been instructed in multiple guides)... 1.4...1.45...1.5... Nothing. System still won't boot properly.

Raiding vNB and vSB to 1.4 and 1.6 respectivly doesnt do anything either.

Getting ****y (as in, trying to avoid the FSB holes i've been hearing about) and turning up the FSB to 400, while setting vCore to ~1.5 (just to ENSURE it gets enough. My cooling can handle it np) and giving the NB and SB the values above results in the system not even starting up, hence the anti-OC-freeze kicks in and i enter BIOS at failsafe settings.

In this thread i've picked up that the CPU VTT shoult be set to 1.55, i've never experimented with this... Can this little setting be the cause of my comp not booting up at all?

Any tips? I've just got no idea where to turn if it's not the CPU VTT that's acting up...

Thanks in advance (and i hope i got all relevant info in for you to assess the situation, if not just ask, no secrets here







)


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Sounds like it. Your reply to him was appropriate. (SNIP!)


Thanks for getting my back. REP+.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rochfordrambo*


(SNIP!) i have x2 xfx 8800 gts 640mb so it dont leave me a lot of room










You should have plenty of room for at least a NB cooler. Take a look at some of the member's galleries (click on the camera icon in lower left corner below our avatars) in this thread and see what they've done to cool down the chipset. SB is a bit more challenging, but luckily doesn't need as much as the NB.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Warpony*


Hi people (*BIG SNIP*)


Hi. Welcome. First, you can fill out your specs here. It's a more conventional way than sigging it: http://www.overclock.net/specs.php

Second, I think a lot of people with Q6600s will respond to you, but I have a couple things that are more general. The first is that 1205 tends to be considered the inferior BIOS to 1203. You can get 1203 on the FTP link in the first post. The other thing is that I've found a "cheat" to get into BIOS after it's already partially-loaded (as you mentioned, the failsafe doesn't kick-in unless the POST fails). The arduous way would be to reset CMOS, but I like to hit the restart button right before POST. That way, the BIOS thinks it failed POST & you get into the failsafe without having to pull your computer apart to get the stupid battery out.

Quads don't OC well on this board, which is why some Q6600 owners are jumping ship; but there are a lot still here that I'm sure will give you some good advice.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Thanks for getting my back. REP+.


NP, there are way too many exspurts on our board that don't own one.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Hi. Welcome. First, you can fill out your specs here. It's a more conventional way than sigging it: http://www.overclock.net/specs.php

Second, I think a lot of people with Q6600s will respond to you, but I have a couple things that are more general. The first is that 1205 tends to be considered the inferior BIOS to 1203. You can get 1203 on the FTP link in the first post. The other thing is that I've found a "cheat" to get into BIOS after it's already partially-loaded (as you mentioned, the failsafe doesn't kick-in unless the POST fails). The arduous way would be to reset CMOS, but I like to hit the restart button right before POST. That way, the BIOS thinks it failed POST & you get into the failsafe without having to pull your computer apart to get the stupid battery out.

Quads don't OC well on this board, which is why some Q6600 owners are jumping ship; but there are a lot still here that I'm sure will give you some good advice.


The method Dosto is talking about is considered interrupting the POST. These boards sometimes don't realize that they failed, but they almost always know that they have been interrupted.

@Warpony
1.2vht=1.3-1.35
nb=1.4-1.5
sb1.5-1.6
cpuvtt=1.55
You also might consider upping the fsb and using the 8X multiplier.


----------



## Warpony

Thanks for the replies guys!

Dost: About that trick, thanks, i'll try it







But instead of resetting CMOS i found that just waiting like 1 min, and then booting it would let me get into bios long enough to set everything to auto. I can only be inside BIOS like 20-30s tho, so i just set it at auto then reboot again for a more stable enviroment and switch things around from there.

Oki, so things i should test:

1. CPU VTT to 1.55v

2. BIOS 1203 instead of 1205 (do i need to purchase a USB stick to do this properly? I updated it through windows last night when i got 1205, but i seem to recall people beeing haters about that method







)

3. Multiplier at 8... (I tried this at FSB 400 to get a 3.2 clock... Comp didnt startup at all, antifreeze kicked in and resetted everything. Might it be a hole at 400?)

4. The volts Litl suggested. (though, except for the vtt that i havent ever tried, i've had the other volts set in those ranges, wouldnt let me boot...)

really hoping 1203 and the vtt setting will help me









Any other tips or tricks are very appriciated


----------



## Litlratt

Yes, use a usb, never Windows.
RAM unlinked, no matter what divider.


----------



## Warpony

kk, i'll keep the ram at unlinked.

A usb-memorystick doesnt put me out much, so i'll pick one up, fix bios and then pray.

I'll return with the results later tonight









Thanks again.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Warpony* 
(SNIP!) Dost: About that trick, thanks, i'll try it







But instead of resetting CMOS i found that just waiting like 1 min, and then booting it would let me get into bios long enough to set everything to auto. I can only be inside BIOS like 20-30s tho, so i just set it at auto then reboot again for a more stable enviroment and switch things around from there. (SNIP!)

I know you say heat's not your issue, but that sure sounds like an overheat remedy. If you don't have luck tonight, I'd try a full pass of memtest to (further) rule-out RAM.

Another (small) thing is the BIOS profiles. Instead of resetting everything to AUTO, it might be quicker (and easier) to setup a BIOS profile at a known-good configuration. That way, you only need to drop into BIOS for only a couple seconds to restore stability. The OC Profiles are in the second from the right main BIOS menu.


----------



## Warpony

Well, i meant heat on the CPU isnt an issue... (It seriously can't be with vCore 1.5v Idle temps of ~100F (40 celsius) and full load at ~130F (55 celsius) or?! Q6600 isnt supposed to throttle until 85 celsius and shut down at like 100, and i would never let it get above like 65celsius... At 1.35 it runs cooler still)

I've also figured it seems like a heat problem, but i have no idea what would get hot so fast with ONLY the vCore and VDIMM volts changed from auto?

The RAM runs perfectly at my current setting, and im OCing with it unlinked, so that should be a total nonissue, am i right? I'll go with some memtest tonight to make sure.


----------



## Warpony

the 1203 revision doesnt seem to be available anymore from the official site (and i can't check the ftp from work but Robilar said it's pulled from ther aswell). Know any other place to get it?

I'll try calling the ASUS tech support and see if they can dig it up somewhere


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Warpony* 
the 1203 revision doesnt seem to be available anymore from the official site (and i can't check the ftp from work but Robilar said it's pulled from ther aswell). Know any other place to get it?

I'll try calling the ASUS tech support and see if they can dig it up somewhere









PM me and I'll email.
Just checked, it's on ftp
ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...P5N32-E%20SLI/


----------



## Warpony

Super, thanks mate. (Goes to show you can never trust these damn guide-writers!







)


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Ouch. Way to disrespect Robilar. It can't be easy to maintain this OC guide... especially since he's probably sold his P5N32-E by now.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Ouch. Way to disrespect Robilar. It can't be easy to maintain this OC guide... especially since he's probably sold his P5N32-E by now.

Lighten up Dosto, he winked.
Everyone knows Robilar is the guru here.


----------



## Warpony

I'm sorry if the above was taken seriously, it was VERY much meant as a joke.

(I thought it was obvious with the wink and since i doubt anyone in their right mind could disrespect someone who takes his time to write amazing stuff like this, helping us lesser knowing. Specially not since i come here asking questions and getting help i wouldnt dream about dissing.)

I once again apologize if it got misinterpreted.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

No. My mistake. I have a tendency to ignore smilies.


----------



## an51r

What are the best bios for this board guys. I am trouble shooting some BSODs that I think are a result of my GT. I am using 1201 now and wondering if those 1203 are better.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *an51r*


What are the best bios for this board guys. I am trouble shooting some BSODs that I think are a result of my GT. I am using 1201 now and wondering if those 1203 are better.


Yes, 1203 is considered to be better by many here.


----------



## Warpony

The new BIOS seems to have done it! (Or the CPU VTT)









RAM running at 4-4-4-12, 800Mhz, Unlinked.

Vcore: 1.425v (Everest says 1.39... CPU-Z says 1.6 - 1.616 during load... What's the CPU-Z about?)
vNB: 1.45v
vSB: 1.6v
VTT: 1.55v

Multiple: 9
FSB: 366

Result: Q6600 @ 3300Mhz

Temps (Using Everest), all temps in Celsius

IDLE:
Mobo: 29
CPU: 20
CPU1: 35
CPU2: 33
CPU3: 32
CPU4: 32

Orthos full load (right now only at 7 mins). Highest temps so far.
Mobo: 30
CPU: 44
Core1: 54
Core2: 52
Core3: 43
Core4: 43

Running smooth so far i must say









Now that im atlaest getting it to boot up i can go ahead and slowly inch upwards if i feel like it too









I'll try to run some games, 3dmark06 and alike and check results.

Thanks a million guys


----------



## Litlratt

Congrats


----------



## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*





















Haha. Innovative.

Why are you so embarrassed by wires?


----------



## an51r

Well I am running the newest bios as well and doing ok so far at 2.88 1280x9. Thanks to the starter of this for getting my started. I am going to try for 3ghz and higher once I get my RAM back from RMA. Right now I am running DDR2 800 ballistax til I get my 1066 back from RMA.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


Haha. Innovative.

Why are you so embarrassed by wires?










It's ghetto cable sleeving. I would have attached 2 fans side by side for that and used my own hair ties


----------



## Warpony

Orthos runs just fine.

Got a BSOD running 3DMark06 (right at the end when i was about to click the result).

Incresed the vCore to 1.45. Orthos still ran fine, a tad hotter (+1-2 degrees)

This time 3DMark06 got a critical error when doing the CPU test.

Guess it's just to go on upping the vCore little by little? Should i push up the vNB too?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Warpony*


Orthos runs just fine.

Got a BSOD running 3DMark06 (right at the end when i was about to click the result).

Incresed the vCore to 1.45. Orthos still ran fine, a tad hotter (+1-2 degrees)

This time 3DMark06 got a critical error when doing the CPU test.

Guess it's just to go on upping the vCore little by little? Should i push up the vNB too?


You might need a little more on the vcore, it's chip dependent.
My 450X8 needs 1.43125.
What cooling on nb?


----------



## Warpony

Yeah, i'll try to push it slowly up til i find a good level.

Stock cooling on NB. I got a fan mounted on the upper HD-rack of my P182 that should blow over it nicely tho. Should this be a problem at 1.4v?

I can't seem to find the NBs exact temp in Everest. Or is that the "Mobo" temp?

Do i even need to give the NB extra voltage below FSB:400?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Warpony*


(SNIP!) Got a BSOD running 3DMark06 (right at the end when i was about to click the result). (SNIP!)


I can be Orthos-stable overnight and still get a BSOD in 3dm. I think it has something to do with CPU throttling, which I'm pretty sure Orthos doesn't test. Typically - in my case, at least - bumping core or RAM voltage is the solution. I think when I get the PAGE FAULT IN NON-PAGED AREA, that's a RAM fault and when my BSOD is either a IRQ NOT LESS OR EQUAL or one that causes an immediate restart, it's related to vCore.


----------



## Warpony

How far do you think i can push my VDIMM with these Corsairs? At 2.1v now, don't wanna fry em.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Warpony*


How far do you think i can push my VDIMM with these Corsairs? At 2.1v now, don't wanna fry em.


What are they rated at? You're not clocking them so it's doubtful that you would need more voltage than what they are rated at. I'm not familiar with them, are they 2X2Gb?
You should consider the pencil mod for vdroop.


----------



## Warpony

2x1gb (updated system too)

My biggest question about that is why CPU-Z says it's 1.6v, which is QUITE far from 1.4 in BIOS... Everest seems to be much more accurate.

Btw, CPU-Z has reported a 1.6v vCore for more or less all BIOS values between 1.425 - 1.45... It just doesnt change in CPU-Z. Wierd.

(Havent been able to test more vCore, had stuff that needed doing, so reverted back to stable 2.7 clock and gonna try more tonight







)


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Those RAM are rated (as you probably already know) to 2.1v at the timings you mentioned earlier. As Litlratt indicates, 2.1 should be plenty for them at stock.

CPU-Z reads vCore incorrectly on my system, too. It also reads at 1.6v no matter what is set. CPU-Z is good for a quick look or comparisons on some things, but if you have Everest, that's what I would trust hands-down.

Let us know how it goes tonight!


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


It's ghetto cable sleeving. I would have attached 2 fans side by side for that and used my own hair ties










but her hair ties have her phehormones which just added a whole lotta sexy factor to my rig and it makes me that much more hapy to use it... I understand you have those macho man phehormones but I don't want them attracting the YMCA guys and have them chasing after my puter, rofl...









>> DOSTO don't yell at me I am j/k, hope u r done PMS'ing <<

HAHAHA.... I am such a dweeb, lol!

on a serious note, I want to add two fans but then I will have no way to secure them without building some sort of bracket spanning from the optical or something of the sort...

I need to dothat anywhays cause while for a 60mm x 10mm this thing puts out a whole lotta air it is still not enough... I need to make a bracket to hold this 90mm I have here... hummm....


----------



## Warpony

Well, it's a cranky combination it seems, no doubt...

I kept at it using:

Vcore: X
vNB: 1.45v
vSB: 1.6v
VTT: 1.55v

Multiple: 9
FSB: 366

Once i reached vCore: 1.5...1.51...1.52... Things started heating up







Got full load temps of ~62 celsius on the highest core, which eventho it's wide within the margin, it started feeling risky (hey, im new







).

Same as before. Orthos runs fine (10 mins or so is what i aim for) but 3DMark06 gets critical errors and i've had BSODs. Managed to run 3Dmark06 full once at like vCore 1.51, but got a BSOD when i exited windows :/

So i actually reverted a little, since i wanted to crank down the voltages a bit (Doesnt it feel awfully greedy that a q6600 g0 wants 1.5+v at only 3.3ghz?). Also wanted to check how far i could push without upping volts on NB and SB, since i only got stock cooling i didnt want them heating up to much.

Went down to:

FSB: 360
Multiple: 9
vCore: 1.325
vNB: Auto (Everest: 1.33)
vSB: Auto (Everest: 1.45 i think)

Ran Orthos over the night and when i woke up the comp had rebooted. Everest logs (god this is a nice feature) shows a BSOD after some 6h of full load.

Upped the vCore 1 step and started a new Orthos to run during the day while i'm at work.

Update: Bah, came home for lunch and comp was locked up after 10 mins









Tried a few times now upping the vCore. Prime95 keeps getting errors after round 2 mins.

New volts right now:
vCore: 1.4v
vNB: 1.45v
vSB: 1.6v

FSB: 360
Multiple: 9

So more or less same as last night, but SLIGHTLY lower FSB and i turned off some things i forgot in BIOS...

Running Prime95 now for all cores. Praying this lasts til im home from work, gotta run :/

Kinda wish i had gone for the E6850 instead seeing the troubles with the quads and this board :/ But well well, i'm not giving up! I'll get this sucker to run at 3.2ghz (which i would be content with considering i'm a newb in this area) if it kills me in the process!









Oh, btw. Ran a quick memtest (only some 15 mins) this morning. No errors what so ever. So i still think it's the processor or mobo that needs tuning. Should run this overnight i guess when the comp isnt busy busting my CPU









got a couple questions tho that you might be able to answer:

1. Does setting too high vCore (i don't mean silly high and frying anything, but like 1.5v on stock clocking) have ANY negative impact on performance? (If temps are well within limits).

2. If the NB or SB volts would be set too low, how does this manifest itself? No boot? BSODs and Errors?


----------



## Litlratt

@Warpony
Q1-1.5(10 minutes ago 1.4) should only make it run hotter than necessary.
Q2-I've seen so many different ones for what I thought were different reasons, that I don't know if there is a pattern or not.


----------



## Warpony

Dunno why i changed that to 1.5. I had some motive for it 10 mins ago, now i can't remember









Thanks for answers, i guess i'll go on tuning this up and down until it works. Gaaaah


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hi again. I think your NB and SB might be a little high for stock cooling. At 1.45, my teeny ThermalTake Spirit II is too hot to touch (mobo temps get to high thirties under load). And I've never had the guts to throw 1.6v at the SB. I've never had any problems at 1.5; I was at 1.55 when I had room for a Spirit II on the SB, but I saw no difference in lowering it. I have the stock NB cooler on the SB (lapped and with AS5; see my gallery), and even that gets very hot to touch at 1.5.

Just my two cents for the morning.


----------



## Warpony

I looked some at the alternatives for NB cooling and the only thing that sounds resonable is adding a 40mm fan to it. (Rather not start cutting copperwires). Question is just how to secure it... Using screws and jam em between the fins sounds like a fairly unstable construction, eventho it's the best one i can think off atm.


----------



## Litlratt

For the clocks you're attempting
1.2=1.3
nb=1.4
sb=1.5
vtt=1.55
Those should be enough. Rig a 120 if you can. I've always liked window fans in the side of the case for getting air on the mobo.
Try mem at 1:1 unlinked for now.


----------



## Warpony

That would mean getting a metalsaw and opening up the side, dunno if i wanna go that far







Shouldnt i be able to get sustainable temps on the NB anyway? If that means adding a 40mm fan ontop of it i'd rather do that somehow then modifying my beautiful chassi









k, i'll try lowering the nb and sb some and see if stability improves (if the comp has crashed when i get home)


----------



## Warpony

Got home and Prime95 had an error at one of core after 2.5h of full load (instead of the 2-3 mins it lasted earlier)...

So it feels like it's getting better atleast!

Still gonna get some NB cooling, just dunno how to fasten a 40mm to the NB an SB yet. (glue, screws, something else?







)


----------



## Carnal

I havent kept up with this thread in a while, but my has it grown!

I previously had problems running 4 sticks of RAM (Corsair XMS2 PC6400 x1GB) and after trying everything, just gave up.

Well, I upgraded to Vista Ult 64 the other day. Upgraded to the latest beta BIOS. I decided to take another whack at 4 sticks and ran into the same problem (loads fine, but when I load up a game it crashes). I have run all sorts of memory tests and it always comes back fine. I can run the system fine with either pair of RAM in either pair of slots SEPERATELY, but not all 4 together.

I have read on other forums and learned that the memory controlled often just cant handle running 4 sticks of RAM. It was suggested to drop the RAM speed from 800 to 667, but that didnt fix the problem.

So... my question is, is there some setting that I can change to enhance the memory controllers ability to handle all 4 sticks?

Thanks again for your assistance.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

What're your NB volts? I'm not sure if it has anything to do with it, but when I run 4x1, it seems more stable with 1.45v.

If you want to sig your specs, here's the link. It is helpful:
http://www.overclock.net/specs.php


----------



## kmatzen

I have been reading a lot about Vista and certain games having problems with 4 dimms populated. Particularly Battlefield 2142. Once I went to 2 sticks all of my problems disappeared. There were a couple of threads with solutions I will see if I can find them if you want.


----------



## slytown

You don't need 4 sticks anyway. Most boards haven't been able to utilize them fully.


----------



## Litlratt

4 sticks of RAM on this board is fine.
Any problems encountered have more to do with the OS you use and the manufacturer of the sticks


----------



## Litlratt

Been playing with 3.82Ghz lately. 425 fsb with 9X multi.
Not Orthos stable, but I have yet to crash Windows with it yet.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=275437


----------



## Mozzie

Ok I feel like total N00b now, I'm lost dont have any idea what I'm doing wrong I need your HELP.

OK I got my self OCZ Reaper 1066 set now when I boot my rig it shows my ram 667, now I set my ram V to 2.2V ,Unlink,set fsb 1066(stock), than ram to 1066 I disable all what need to be disable.

When restart I'm getting BSOD when I set to 800Mhz all good I even try 2.3V.
I dont know what I'm missing what I'm doing wrong I gone







my rig soon!!!!!
Can somebody post step by step how to? I did once but that was loong time ago but I run Dominator 800Mhz.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hi, Mozzie. I feel your frustration and I hope I can help. What do you have the RAM timings set at? Did you try setting 5-5-5-15-2T and the rest at AUTO? Did you try running a full pass of memtest? Where does your BSOD occur: is it happening at load, or after Windows has started? Is it IRQ LESS OR EQUAL, PAGE FAULT IN NON-PAGED AREA, or a different BSOD? Have you tried bumping vCore a notch? What's your NB at? Have you tried the different RAM slots (if you're in blue, try white or v-v)? Have you tried only one stick at reference?

It sounds like you're using good sense in troubleshooting, so I'm sure I'm being redundant; I just want to make sure we're covering everything. Beyond what I've said, I wonder if you've got some bad sticks (which would REALLY surprise me because I'm pretty sure OCZ tests ALL their Reapers, not just random checks).

LitlRatt, your quad speed is amazing. You have exceeded my maximum clock on a C2D (E6750). Granted, they are nothing to compare each other by, but I am very impressed. I hope this means you're going to keep this board for a while (because I have to & it would be great to have you stick around).


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Sorry for the double-post, but I really need to express my appreciation to Litlratt. After he posted his most recent accomplishment, I decided to go a little beyond what I thought was an FSB wall for the QX6700 on 680i. I absolutely do not claim this is stable, but I used to think that I couldn't even POST higher than 360, so making this much of a jump seemed doomed to fail. Not only did I get into Vista, but I made a RAM bench.


----------



## slytown

Is 1.4vcore high for this CPU necessary to get stable at this point? I can't get it down.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Sorry for the double-post, but I really need to express my appreciation to Litlratt. After he posted his most recent accomplishment, I decided to go a little beyond what I thought was an FSB wall for the QX6700 on 680i. I absolutely do not claim this is stable, but I used to think that I couldn't even POST higher than 360, so making this much of a jump seemed doomed to fail. Not only did I get into Vista, but I made a RAM bench.

You're welcome Dosto. Believe it or not, I think that if you can do 450X8 then, with the proper cooling, it will do 450X9.
Yes, I plan on keeping the board but am getting ready to test my fourth EVGA 680 A1. I can't tell you how happy I was that they sent me the additional hardware with my third RMA. 5 mobo screws with the stand-offs still attached on the other side








Anyway, what we initially thought was a wall, turned out to be a hole for some of us. What interests me the most now is the common denominator that has allowed a few of us to get to the other side.
I'll eventually go to a 700 series board as they will support the 45nm quads but I'll continue to visit this thread. Robilar has done a tremendous job with this thread. I don't know if anyone else has noticed, but there hasn't been any flaming, just help, information and the occasional jab at each other for fun. Unusual for a thread this long.
Note that the below is with 4 sticks of RAM.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=250944

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slytown* 
Is 1.4vcore high for this CPU necessary to get stable at this point? I can't get it down.

You're the only one that can answer your question. Each config is different. It might be high compared to others, but that doesn't mean [email protected]#$. Your temps should be your guide.


----------



## Mozzie

Quote:



What do you have the RAM timings set at? Did you try setting 5-5-5-15-2T and the rest at AUTO?


 yes 5,5,5,15-2T and rest auto.

Quote:



Where does your BSOD occur


 when swith from green stripe to mouse.at load

Quote:



Is it IRQ LESS OR EQUAL, PAGE FAULT IN NON-PAGED AREA, or a different BSOD


 that I dont know.

Quote:



Have you tried bumping vCore a notch?


 not yet what you think is safe?

Quote:



What's your NB at?


 is on auto

Quote:



Have you tried only one stick at reference?


 no I will try that today after work.

Quote:



Have you tried the different RAM slots (if you're in blue, try white or v-v)?


 try that but didint want to boot but I was in O/C mode than I give up (was like 3am)

Do you have like differand settings I can try or something lol


----------



## [email protected]

Thanks great guide








I have my E6600 (P5N32-E SLI PLUS) almost stable at 3375Mhz but i cant get it stable on 3400mhz this are my voltages: 
vcore 1.45v
mem 2.1v
1.2v 1.3v
nb 1.4v
sb 1.5v
cpu vtt 1.55v
what should i do?







I use the synthe infinity cooler idle at 34 celcius stresed 50


----------



## Mozzie

Ok thats what I'm running my ram now!

4,4,4,12-1T @ 2.3V

I think this is better than 5,5,5,15-2T!


----------



## Robilar

It is better, 1T makes a big difference


----------



## USlatin

Ok, so really quick... 1305 any better than 1203 yes or no?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Ok, so really quick... 1305 any better than 1203 yes or no?


It's not on ftp yet. Didn't know there was a new one.

edit: Quit looking at Robilar's Striker.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
It is better, 1T makes a big difference

Better benches and speed,but in some cases less stability.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Ok, so really quick... 1305 any better than 1203 yes or no?

NO,us latin stay with the 1203.I think that's goin to be one of the last bios updates.


----------



## designbydave

hey there guys

I bought this motherboard a few weeks ago and have been reading though this massive thread for a while now. It has been a great help but I am having less than stellar overclocking results.

My system:
Core 2 Duo E6750
2gb (2x1) Crucial Ballistix DDR2 800
Asus P5n32-E (duh...)
PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 quad PSU
Zalman 9700 CPU cooler
XFX 8800GT (just one for now, but will have another soon







)

My Problem:
I can't seem to get stability at anything over 3ghz. My FSB is at 375 and all voltages are set to auto except CPU VTT and memory, which I have at 1.55 and 2.2 respectively. Rock solid at this setting, but anything higher will freeze up. I can get 3.2ghz right on the edge of stable, but not quite there.

I have tried setting all the recommended voltages for NB, SB, etc as per the second post in this thread. I have also tried increasing the core voltage up to 1.45 but that still will not get stability at 3.2ghz. I'm not sure what the problem is. I expected this cpu to go past 3.2ghz on the stock voltage. At least that was Tom's Hardware's experience:

http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/11/...ad/page11.html

Their stock voltage is around 1.35, but when I set the core voltage to auto I am getting 1.44 according to AiBooster.

Should my default voltage be less than 1.44?

How High can I increase the core voltage to and still be safe? Tom's said not to go over 1.475 as this is too much for a 65nm processor. I read in here that 1.55 was the limit...

Think my problem with stability at 3.2ghz is the core voltage just not high enough?

I have been running the memory at 800mhz throughout all my testing....

Hope I remembered all relevant information

Thanks

David

EDIT: oh yeah I am running the 1302 BIOS, but am reading that 1203 is the best for OC. Should I re-flash?


----------



## Litlratt

Most of us have stuck with 1203. Some have tested the later versions and reverted back to 1203.
I recommend it, but I haven't tried the later ones with a halfaquad(new word) processor.
Flash back to 1203 and we'll go from there.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mozzie*


Ok thats what I'm running my ram now!

4,4,4,12-1T @ 2.3V

I think this is better than 5,5,5,15-2T!


Are you really running your RAM at 1T, 1066???

I need me some of your RAM. That's awesome! My Ballistix won't go higher than 750 @ 1T 4x1 and around 800-something 2x1. I thought they were the same ICs as the Reapers, but wow! Suddenly I wish I was getting some Reapers for Christmas instead of a PS3! (No... no, not really but ALMOST!)

USlatin: I tried 1302 for only a couple hours. I got a lot of no-POST at known good OCs on 1203, so I flashed back. (I did this with 1205 as well, so I'm having flashbacks about my flashbacks).


----------



## Litlratt

960 was the best mine would do at 1T.
USRatin asked about 1305.


----------



## Mozzie

Quote:



Are you really running your RAM at 1T, 1066???


Nope I wish I could I'm tuning at 800Mhz.

at 4,4,4,12,20,1T

My friend got same board (Asus P5n32-E) same ram and Q6600 and he cant run this ram at 1066.
I realy dont know what we doing wrong


----------



## Litlratt

At default timings he shouldn't have a problem.
Follow instructions on page 1. I personally like BIOS 1203 though.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


It's not on ftp yet. Didn't know there was a new one.

edit: Quit looking at Robilar's Striker.



ohh!!!! hahhahaha!!!!

man, Robilar, you are confusing me dude!!! lol...

thanks Ratt and Robilar for your answers


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


ohh!!!! hahhahaha!!!!

man, Robilar, you are confusing me dude!!! lol...

thanks Ratt and Robilar for your answers


Lol yes my bad for switching boards but I got such a deal on the striker, I figured I would give it a go. Also it OC's better with Quads which I will eventually pick up as well.

I almost went X38 but the 8800GT in SLI changed my mind.


----------



## Litlratt

Hey Robilar.
Since you're on today, is there a chance you could edit the first page to include the Evercool for the sb?
I've also got a Vantec Iceberg that appears as if it will fit, but won't be able to confirm until I take the board back out.

edit: BTW steeenking traitor


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
Hey Robilar.
Since you're on today, is there a chance you could edit the first page to include the Evercool for the sb?
I've also got a Vantec Iceberg that appears as if it will fit, but won't be able to confirm until I take the board back out.

edit: BTW steeenking traitor

Can you provide me with a link for the evercool?

Also, the vantec iceberq fits fine. I took the ugly sticker off of it.

It is pretty loud though

It can be used with a long sound card though (the reason I bought it)


----------



## Litlratt

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835119080


----------



## designbydave

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Most of us have stuck with 1203. Some have tested the later versions and reverted back to 1203.
I recommend it, but I haven't tried the later ones with a halfaquad(new word) processor.
Flash back to 1203 and we'll go from there.


ok back to 1203

being able to load the bin file from a USB drive makes it much easier than having to hook up a damn floppy drive. Nice









I was a little hesitant to flash because when I updated to 1302 I almost killed the board. It would not post after the update. I had to pull the cmos battery and pray a few times. The EZ Flash utility worked great this time.

I guess I'll try 387 fsb and see if I can get it stable at 3.1ghz


----------



## Chickenman

Quote:



I have tried setting all the recommended voltages for NB, SB, etc as per the second post in this thread. I have also tried increasing the core voltage up to 1.45 but that still will not get stability at 3.2ghz. I'm not sure what the problem is. I expected this cpu to go past 3.2ghz on the stock voltage.


I've been mucking around with my board a lot, I have a quad but I think this principal is the same.

Set the CPU VTT for 1.2 or 1.25 and no higher, I can get my quad to boot at 3.375 by doing this but it's unstable as bejesus, with the 1.55v recommended in the first post not even 3ghz is stable. Seems to have a huge effect on FSB etc. After that you should be able to drop your core voltage a lot @ 3ghz and hopefully push it a lot further.


----------



## thatbiggbadwolfy

Guys, I was wondering if you all can help me with this (and yes I've read about 100 pages of this and 20 pages of HardOCP). I've struggled with this for 2 weeks with my Q6600. I get 3-4 BSODs in Vista a day ever since I got this motherboard. I get freezes with a pitching whine noise too.

I'm thinking the motherboard I got (P5N32-E SLI 680i) from newegg is crippled. I can't push past 318 FSB x QDR. Everyone is saying that just by raising the QDR FSB to 1333, they can get a 3.0ghz overclock. I can't do that. If I do that and keep my Ram speed at 800mhz unliked, I get a POST screen, and I stare at it for an hour.

I also tried removing 2 sticks of my Ram (Patriot Extreme 4-4-4-12, MD9 chips, which have gotten people's Q6600 to 3.5ghz) to no avail. What am I doing wrong? The highest clock I've gotten is 2.88 with a messed up ratio. I have to admit I'm new to OC-ing intel chipsets, but people have been literally, literally changing FSBs to 1333, and it works.

Can you guys tell me what EXACT numbers you put in to boot past 3.0ghz? Honest to god, I am throwing this motherboard away when a 790i comes out along with Penryns.

Q6600 Owners:

1. Are you guys changing your RAM speeds along with FSB or just keeping Ram at 800mhz? For example, My QDR is 1272 and my ram is at 899 (this is the only OC combo I could use)
2. My ram is at 2.1--are you guys pushing 2.2vs?
3. What exactly are your voltages across the board?
-1.2HT
-VNB
-VSB
-VTT

And I'm assuming most of your multiples are 9.

My timings are relaxed at 5-5-5-15 2t. I know i'm asking for a lot, but I wish, I wish that I can just get 3.0ghz without getting BSODs every waking hour of my day. My Orthos always fail under 6 minutes. 1 Orthos I had ran 30 minutes at 1.375 V Core (everything else auto) and 2.2v memory.

Thanks for the advice. PS: No matter what, I am not never buying an ASUS motherboard again.

My cooling contains a Zalman 9700 (i'm at 35C idle at 2.88ghz), OCZ active memory cooling, a 40mm cooler master fan on the northbridge screwed in, and SilenX 120mm cooling.

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1245576

PS: My BIOS is 1302. I know most of you are using 1205, but should I be able to just hit 3.0 even with this BIOS?

I'm trying this combination right now:
VCore: 1.425v
VNB: 1.45v
VSB: 1.6v
VTT: 1.55v
Multiple:9
FSB: 1276 divided by 4 (319FSB)
Ram: 899/800 Unlinked

So far no BSODs..


----------



## designbydave

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chickenman*


I've been mucking around with my board a lot, I have a quad but I think this principal is the same.

Set the CPU VTT for 1.2 or 1.25 and no higher, I can get my quad to boot at 3.375 by doing this but it's unstable as bejesus, with the 1.55v recommended in the first post not even 3ghz is stable. Seems to have a huge effect on FSB etc. After that you should be able to drop your core voltage a lot @ 3ghz and hopefully push it a lot further.


interesting

The first few pages of this thread would indicate that that voltage should be maxed at 1.55. Anyone else have the same experience as this guy?


----------



## designbydave

still not stable at 400mhz fsb with bios 1203 at default vcore

I guess I will push up the vcore to 1.45 and see


----------



## Chickenman

did you try lowering the cpu vtt?


----------



## designbydave

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chickenman*


did you try lowering the cpu vtt?


not for that test.

now I have the vcore at auto and lowered the cpu vtt to 1.25 as recommended

10 minutes into Orthos test is longer than it has gone before

.::.Fingers Crossed .::.


----------



## WuNgUn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thatbiggbadwolfy*


.....I get a POST screen, and I stare at it for an hour.

Q6600 Owners:

And I'm assuming most of your multiples are 9.

PS: My BIOS is 1302. I know most of you are using 1205, but should I be able to just hit 3.0 even with this BIOS?

I'm trying this combination right now:
VCore: 1.425v
VNB: 1.45v
VSB: 1.6v
VTT: 1.55v
Multiple:9
FSB: 1276 divided by 4 (319FSB)
Ram: 899/800 Unlinked

So far no BSODs..


You need to find 1203 BIOS...they took it off the FTP however, so...give me your email addy...I'll send it...
1302 does exactly at POST on my PC too...
Your voltages are all too high...
For 1333, set vcore to 1.35, vdimm to 2.0 or 2.1 max, and VTT to 1.25 to 1.4
Everything else on auto...

Keep your RAM at 800 for now...this means no weird FSB timings, like 1276...
Set it to 1333Mhz and try those voltages on 1203...should be good


----------



## Chickenman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *designbydave* 
not for that test.

now I have the vcore at auto and lowered the cpu vtt to 1.25 as recommended

10 minutes into Orthos test is longer than it has gone before

.::.Fingers Crossed .::.

Hope it works out for you man.

I have a crazy issue where my board wont boot at 3ghz until my bridges hit about 36 degrees







So boot.. it hangs, watch senfui temp til 35-36 then reboot... it works


----------



## designbydave

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chickenman* 
Hope it works out for you man.

I have a crazy issue where my board wont boot at 3ghz until my bridges hit about 36 degrees







So boot.. it hangs, watch senfui temp til 35-36 then reboot... it works









well Orthos ran for over an hour (while listening to Keith and the Girl, very funny) rock solid so far

3D mark 06 ran and scored 12,286 (pretty sure this is my highest)

I think lowering the VTT did the trick (fingers still somewhat crossed)

rep++

baaaaah, damn everything was good but it froze during Gears of War...


----------



## Chickenman

what are your temps like at that Vcore? Take it off auto. Also drop CPU VTT again, down to 1.2 and even the bridge voltages a little bit. HAve you got active cooling on the bridges? I pulled off my gay heatpipe and replaced it with a standard tall aluminium chipset cooler, run my gfx card in bottom slot and have a 120mm fan sitting on top of it, it cools both chipsets then.

The board is sooo finicky.

Also - it's strange that it crashed in a game and not in 3dmark. I had crashes in WOW until I got things to where they are now, I might post up my bios screens etc when I get home.


----------



## thatbiggbadwolfy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WuNgUn*


You need to find 1203 BIOS...they took it off the FTP however, so...give me your email addy...I'll send it...
1302 does exactly at POST on my PC too...
Your voltages are all too high...
For 1333, set vcore to 1.35, vdimm to 2.0 or 2.1 max, and VTT to 1.25 to 1.4
Everything else on auto...

Keep your RAM at 800 for now...this means no weird FSB timings, like 1276...
Set it to 1333Mhz and try those voltages on 1203...should be good


Oh I see. Interesting stuff. My email is [email protected] -- thanks a lot man! Perhaps it's the BIOS issue after all. Are your numbers "unlinked" as well?


----------



## thatbiggbadwolfy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chickenman*


what are your temps like at that Vcore? Take it off auto. Also drop CPU VTT again, down to 1.2 and even the bridge voltages a little bit. HAve you got active cooling on the bridges? I pulled off my gay heatpipe and replaced it with a standard tall aluminium chipset cooler, run my gfx card in bottom slot and have a 120mm fan sitting on top of it, it cools both chipsets then.

The board is sooo finicky.

Also - it's strange that it crashed in a game and not in 3dmark. I had crashes in WOW until I got things to where they are now, I might post up my bios screens etc when I get home.


By the way, what do you use to pull off the stock cooling on the NB/SB? I didn't pull it off since I was thinking the heatpipe does something (it doesn't). I'm thinking a pair of pliers to squeeze the plastic tab in from the back of the mobo? I want to remove the NB and then put in some arctic silver or something. Or just replace it with a Noctua etc. But perhaps on the 790i when it comes out


----------



## WuNgUn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thatbiggbadwolfy*


Oh I see. Interesting stuff. My email is [email protected] -- thanks a lot man! Perhaps it's the BIOS issue after all. Are your numbers "unlinked" as well?


BIOS sent...
Yes, unlinked...but if you can run linked (and I think you can) at 1333 FSB and 800Mhz RAM
Concentrate just on your FSB for now, and run relaxed mem timings...

I think I have electricity issues here...I played Crysis for 3 hours today, running at 3Ghz, then bang...froze.
Went to reset the machine, and it gives me one LONG beep...won't boot for nothin'!
Then it's fine again!

Oh yeah, cool off those chipsets. Heatpipe suck-ass as far as I'm concerned...
I have a 80mm fan sitting on my GTX for now, until my water pumps show up...
Gonna water cool the CPU, GPU, NB + SB, vregs and RAM on two loops and 120 and 240mm rads...
THAT better help!


----------



## designbydave

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chickenman* 
what are your temps like at that Vcore? Take it off auto. Also drop CPU VTT again, down to 1.2 and even the bridge voltages a little bit. HAve you got active cooling on the bridges? I pulled off my gay heatpipe and replaced it with a standard tall aluminium chipset cooler, run my gfx card in bottom slot and have a 120mm fan sitting on top of it, it cools both chipsets then.

The board is sooo finicky.

Also - it's strange that it crashed in a game and not in 3dmark. I had crashes in WOW until I got things to where they are now, I might post up my bios screens etc when I get home.

i get between 45 and 50 C. Not sure what the exact default vcore is. AI Booster says 1.44, but it also says that if I raise it to 1.45. Is there a reliable way to tell what the vcore is?

I just have the stock cooling on the NB and SB. I know it really needs more cooling, but I was thinking this cpu would OC on stock voltages as per Toms Hardware:

http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/11/...ad/page11.html

There have been a number of times where I thought my OC was stable, Orthos, 3DMark, Prime95 all ran fine, only to have it freeze when actually playing a game.


----------



## WuNgUn

I've had the same random freeze ups....
Which I could nail it down!


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *designbydave*


i get between 45 and 50 C. Not sure what the exact default vcore is. AI Booster says 1.44, but it also says that if I raise it to 1.45. Is there a reliable way to tell what the vcore is?

I just have the stock cooling on the NB and SB. I know it really needs more cooling, but I was thinking this cpu would OC on stock voltages as per Toms Hardware:

http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/11/...ad/page11.html

There have been a number of times where I thought my OC was stable, Orthos, 3DMark, Prime95 all ran fine, only to have it freeze when actually playing a game.


me personally, i use Everest Ultimate 4 for all my voltage readings, seems very accurate. CPU-Z is also a good one, but does have a few compatability issues with some people.

i'd go Everest, does all voltage readings, even most board readings, plus temps. can also do some benching to test memory read/write bandwidth etc. great program.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

FYI: Everest 4.2 is out, and it has some great new features (including stability test logging, which I use a lot). One thing missing is the video RAM temperature, which is remedied in the 4.3 (private) beta. They sent me the file after I e-mailed support about it (which I'm sure they'd do for anyone else who asks). Both are obviously free to upgrade.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I want one of these:
http://forums.tweaktown.com/showthread.php?t=25544

If it does what it says, would I be insane to "downgrade" from four cores to two?

Consider that I am no more stable than any of you on quads at high FSB and that I have grown bored of overclocking my QX6700 (does anyone want my quad for $300 when this thing comes out?). ***EDIT: Also consider I want to get maximum potential out of what I have. I was able to do that with the E6750 (that eventually went into my wife's computer), but I REALLY want a new project... one where I can really do some RAM benches that matter. Am I insane to even consider swapping a quad for a C2D Wolfie?


----------



## Surago

Hi All,

This is my first post, been reading all 371 pages so far, and its been very informative and of great value, thank you too all those that have contributed.









Apologies for the upcoming essay...









Any who, i have had a P5N32-E motherboard for the past 2 weeks as a temporary replacement for another motherboard that died on me. I have a Zalman XT watercooling setup which currently cools the CPU and i have just added a NB Chipset waterblock (Zalman ZM-NWB1).

Now the mobo is old, second hand and i no longer have a warranty on it, so with that in mind i simply Cut the heatpipe going from the mosfets to the NB chipset and have left the existing Mosfet HeatSink in place (heh my cutting looks like dogs bollocks, but meh its free







).

Side Question: Is there any residue or liquid or what have you that normally sits inside the heatpipe that i should be weary of leaking? Doesn't seem to be so far, but i've heard of some heatpipes having either water or wax type stuff in them.

I was hoping to avoid having an additional case Fan pointing down towards the motherboard, however without a fan the motherboard temps raise to about 46 degrees under full load, is this too high (E6600 at 2.4ghz, with default 'AUTO' settings in bios for voltages)?

Note: I still have the stock heatsinks on both sets of mosfets, stock SB/HeatPipe/Mosfet cooler has not been touched

Note: Also the CPU Temp sits at 26 degrees idle, and maybe reaches 42 degrees under full load.

Not knowing where the thermal sensor is for the motherboard (i don't think it is part of the NB chipset, or i could be wrong here. If it is, then i probably just need to reseat the chipset waterblock as i'm not 100% confident it has a solid contact - seems to wobble easily), i was thinking about getting a couple mosfet waterblocks (http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/produc...roducts_id=178) for a little piece of mind.

Any advice or help here would be much appreciated thanks.

Oh BTW i'm obtaining the temps from Everest Ultimate Edition v4.20. Just quoting the 'Motherboard' and 'CPU' temps.


----------



## alexisd

Surago you make the question after you cut,the pipes?I recomend remove the whole pipes set and use any mofset coolers.Better than live the pipes like that.


----------



## Surago

Well i've just reseated the NB waterblock. Is slightly more stable, just used a couple rubber washers on the push pins. However i think its just a case of being wobbly due to the NB Chip itself not being overly large (similar to the P3).

As for the mosfet coolers, i think i'll just order a set of the EK-Mosfet ASUS 1 waterblocks (http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/produc...roducts_id=155) and hopefully that will do the trick. Tho my next question, should i look at the standard one, or the 'Acetel' one?

Tho i really would to know what sort of Motherboard temps are acceptable. Or where the mobo thermal sensor is.

Maybe my hopes of having a fanless system might be pushing things a little too far.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Surago*


Well i've just reseated the NB waterblock. Is slightly more stable, just used a couple rubber washers on the push pins. However i think its just a case of being wobbly due to the NB Chip itself not being overly large (similar to the P3).

As for the mosfet coolers, i think i'll just order a set of the EK-Mosfet ASUS 1 waterblocks (http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/produc...roducts_id=155) and hopefully that will do the trick. Tho my next question, should i look at the standard one, or the 'Acetel' one?

Tho i really would to know what sort of Motherboard temps are acceptable. Or where the mobo thermal sensor is.

Maybe my hopes of having a fanless system might be pushing things a little too far.


Your modded mosfet coolers are fine as long as you get some air on them.Active sb cooling is recommended.
Thermal sensor is near nb.
Fanless.....I have 21 too many then.


----------



## Surago

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Your modded mosfet coolers are fine as long as you get some air on them.Active sb cooling is recommended.
Thermal sensor is near nb.
Fanless.....I have 21 too many then.


Ack, was hoping to have no fans (if possible). So i've order a couple mosfet waterblocks.

Will need to get something for SB as well, but not sure if i can get a waterblock to fit on there until i reduce the size of the 8800GTX stock Fan/Heatsink solution.

Ack it never ends lol


----------



## stovepipe

I get awful temps on mine..even at stock. I idle at 49~ on stock, and load is about 70, I get generally the same temps at 2.8 (my maximum so far) it's impossible for me to run anything above that at all, let alone the temps I can imagine that it would pull out.

I would really love to try out the 1203, so anyone willing to email it, forward it down to -removed-

I've remounted my cooler 3 times, trying for a better mount each time (cleaning everything with Isopropyl alcohol) This mount is my best so far, with idle temps slightly lower (lowest core hovers around 48 and I'm on 2.8..but I'm sure it's the same at 2.4) I used a razor blade to spread out the paste on the bottom of the heatsink (using Arctic Silver 5)

I have applied all the options at the start of the guide. I'm beginning to think I just suck at mounting or I have a **** cooler.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stovepipe* 
I get awful temps on mine..even at stock. I idle at 49~ on stock, and load is about 70, I get generally the same temps at 2.8 (my maximum so far) it's impossible for me to run anything above that at all, let alone the temps I can imagine that it would pull out.

I would really love to try out the 1203, so anyone willing to email it, forward it down to [email protected]

I've remounted my cooler 3 times, trying for a better mount each time (cleaning everything with Isopropyl alcohol) This mount is my best so far, with idle temps slightly lower (lowest core hovers around 48 and I'm on 2.8..but I'm sure it's the same at 2.4) I used a razor blade to spread out the paste on the bottom of the heatsink (using Arctic Silver 5)

I have applied all the options at the start of the guide. I'm beginning to think I just suck at mounting or I have a **** cooler.

BIOS is here
Use the thin line method for applying paste. It can be found on Arctic Silver's site.


----------



## stovepipe

I tried that for my first mount, and boy did it not go good...

I've been trying different speeds and my absolute maximum is 2.88, above that it just ****s itself.

Heck..at 2.4 it does everything I need it to and much, much more. But I hate the feeling of having dud hardware


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Free thermal tape:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ml#post3066372


----------



## stovepipe

I was going to edit, although I hit back by accident and there has been a new post.

I will try that Thermal Tape for sure. Do you think it will get me better temps than AS5?

Right now I'm on 1203, sitting on 2997MHz (nVCP) 3.006GHz (Core Temp), 3000.7~ MHz (CPU-Z)

I have a few questions and I'll post my voltages etc.

First question is. in NVMonitor my SPP PCI-E is rated at 2750MHz and is now in yellow. Everything else is reading green in the middle part. Along with that all my voltages are reading red..and always have even on stock. Is that normal? Is there a way to get the SPP PCI-E back to Green?

My voltages read
CPU: 1.350 V
Mem: 2.1 V (4-4-4-12-2T)
FSB: 1.4 V
HT: 1.2 V
nForce: 1.5 V

What is nForce rating?

I've been running prime 95 now for 20 minutes in "In-Plave large FFTs" and my Core Temps are - 75/74 - 71/70 - 71 - 73

It's funny because core 2 was always by FAR the hottest.

Hmm went away screensaver was on, came back.

73 - 70 - 70 - 72

That's the coolest full load I've ever seen it.

Any notes and answers will be fully appreciated


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I would not recommend trusting Nvmonitor for anything, least of all color-coding my voltages and speeds properly. The truth is that - if I were you - I would uninstall nTune completely from my system and pray fervently that it didn't damage anything. If I had tried to use any of the "automatic overclocking" features, I would reset CMOS and do a complete OS reformat/reinstall.

nForce is probably your NB, but - again - I wouldn't know because I'm not a fan of nTune (in case you haven't noticed). I would get the free version of Everest Home and consider upgrading to Ultimate

Your temperatures seem a little high for your OC, especially if you have a G0, but they aren't alarming. It's about where I am on my sigged OC on my B3 quad.


----------



## stovepipe

They are high, annoyingly high, although I think it's because of my hsf and the fact that I have a steel fan. I have signed up for that thermal pad, and I hope that gives me some better speeds.

Oh no, don't think I'm using ntune for any of my overclocking, PURELY monitoring!

I have Everest Home on a usb stick lying around, when I find it I'll post up voltages. Though I know for a fact that those I posted are the same as what I put in the mobo, as to whether they are happening or not I don't know.


----------



## slytown

Can anyone remember what their highest FSB post was on stock 680i chipest cooling?


----------



## Robilar

504, leaving it that way though will eventually fry the nb without active cooling


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Does this board support non-integer multis? I have it on GOOD INFORMATION that Wolfdale's top-of-the-line at launch (E8500) will have a multi of 9.5. Does anyone have any clue how this'll work on our board?

***EDIT: The crystal doggies weird me out.


----------



## colt1911

I have a question about my E6850 cpu on this board. I have been able to overclock to 3.5ghz but when I try 1600fsb it goes to the xp login screen and then restarts. I have the cpu voltage at 1.30, memory at 2.0, 1.2ht at 1.35v, nb at 1.4 volts, sb at auto, and the cpu vtt at 1.30v. As stated above it is stable at 1533fsb but I can 't seem to go higher.I know this sounds dumb to some of you but I'm trying to learn as I go. Can someone suggest any changes that I might try. This is on air cooling and my temps according to core temp are core1 10c and core 2 11c, cpu is at 22c and this is at idle. Thanks for your help.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Windows startup stresses the system more than POST, so this is not surprising. You may need to increase vCore or NB volts. Is there a BSOD, or does it just spontaneously restart? What are all your volts set to?


----------



## colt1911

It just spontaneously restarts with no BSOD. Cpu volts = 1.3v, 1.2vHT=1.30v, NB=1.30v, SB= auto, cpu vtt=1.3v. FSB is at 1533 now.


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *colt1911* 
It just spontaneously restarts with no BSOD. Cpu volts = 1.3v, 1.2vHT=1.30v, NB=1.30v, SB= auto, cpu vtt=1.3v. FSB is at 1533 now.

im not too familiar with dual cores since the E6420...but i'd say your Vcore is too low, as well as your NB volts.

try 1.35 NB or 1.4.... Vcore 1.34v and VTT 1.4v

see if that helps


----------



## gtarmanrob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *colt1911* 
It just spontaneously restarts with no BSOD. Cpu volts = 1.3v, 1.2vHT=1.30v, NB=1.30v, SB= auto, cpu vtt=1.3v. FSB is at 1533 now.

im not too familiar with dual cores since the E6420...but i'd say your Vcore is too low, as well as your NB volts.

try 1.35 NB or 1.4.... Vcore 1.34v and VTT 1.4v

see if that helps


----------



## brooking1169

Quote:



Originally Posted by *colt1911*


It just spontaneously restarts with no BSOD. Cpu volts = 1.3v, 1.2vHT=1.30v, NB=1.30v, SB= auto, cpu vtt=1.3v. FSB is at 1533 now.


I had the same problem when i had that board. The northbridge got so hot i couldnt even touch the heatsink. I bought the Thermalright HR-05 SLI/IFX Copper Chipset Cooler and had to bump the northbridge to 1.45v and the cpu vtt to 1.55v to get the board stable.


----------



## CpLRusty

Colt1911:

I run my E6850 24/7 at 3.6G in the system listed below. Here are my volt settings for reference. I use an AC7 in an Antec 900 case:

vCore = 1.39375
1.2VHT = 1.40
NB = 1.45
SB = 1.50
CPU VTT = 1.55

I have stock cooling on my NB and SB.

System idles around 30-34c depending on what my wife sets the house thermostat for. Under ORTHOS load I get right up to between 55-60c.

I've run experiments trying to get higher. I peaked at 3.8G but it was very unstable.


----------



## Xel_Naga

OK FIRST OF ALL!
first and formost 
I would like to thank everyone here for helping me!

the most help was the recomendation to use bios 1203

Fixed a ton of issues

so here I am now with an OC im happy with and I left it on orthos overnight while i was sleeping and it ran for 10 hours+ no problems temps stayed under 70c Sandra is reporting BEAUITFUL numbers on memory bandwith and cpu performance. in 3dmark06 I got 17500!! I LOVE IT! ..... But ....... does me no good when every game I run crashes......







If i revert back to stock speeds no more crashing and everything runs fine







and some times a random app will crash. now when I say crash i mean just the app or game will say this app or game has stoped responding and must close.

So what do you think is going on ??

here is my set up!

q6600 G0
OC'd to 3.3g
366.7*9
unlinked memory running at 800 5-5-5-12-T2
Bios 1203
vcore 1.325
Vdimm 1.9
1.2vht auto have tried 1.25 1.3 1.35
NB auto have tried 1.4 and 1.45 and 1.5
sb auto have tried 1.55 1.6 and 1.65
cpu vtt 1.30 have tried 1.25 and 1.55

the os does not crash or reboot just the apps do but any benchmarking util will run fine and make you think its stable.

my idle temps are 
cpu 32C
NB 39C
gpus 55C

My full load temps after 10hrs of orthos
CPU 55c
core1 66c
core2 67c
core3 63c
core4 62c
nb 41c
gpus 63c

UT3 wont even make it past the splash
ETQW makes it about 15 mins
CSS shutters and will play but some times crashes
Eve Trinity crashes everywhere

any help?


----------



## Litlratt

@Xel
Enter your system specs.
Run Everest and tell us what your voltages are in Windows.
Latest chipset, video and audio drivers?


----------



## Xel_Naga

@Lil when you say enter my system specs? you mean down below? like below my sig? also i was just doing that and ... wow flash crashed IE








--------[ EVEREST Ultimate Edition ]------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Version EVEREST v4.20.1170
Benchmark Module 2.3.212.0
Homepage http://www.lavalys.com/
Report Type Quick Report
Computer  KORTANA
Generator Ryan
Operating System Microsoft Windows Vista Ultimate 6.0.6000 (Vista Retail)
Date 2007-12-06
Time 22:15

--------[ Sensor ]------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sensor Properties:
Sensor Type IT8718F + W83791D + ADT7475 (ISA 290h, SMB 2Dh, SMB 2Eh)
GPU Sensor Type Analog Devices ADT7473 (NV-I2C 2Eh)
Motherboard Name Asus P5N32-E / Striker Extreme
Chassis Intrusion Detected No

Temperatures:
Motherboard 40 Â°C (104 Â°F)
CPU 32 Â°C (90 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #1 51 Â°C (124 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #2 50 Â°C (122 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #3 49 Â°C (120 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #4 48 Â°C (118 Â°F)
GPU1: GPU 52 Â°C (126 Â°F)
GPU1: GPU Memory 52 Â°C (126 Â°F)
GPU1: GPU Ambient 48 Â°C (118 Â°F)
GPU2: GPU 51 Â°C (124 Â°F)
GPU2: GPU Memory 51 Â°C (124 Â°F)
GPU2: GPU Ambient 48 Â°C (118 Â°F)
Temperature #1 -6 Â°C (21 Â°F)
Temperature #2 -5 Â°C (23 Â°F)
Temperature #3 -8 Â°C (18 Â°F)

Cooling Fans:
CPU 2824 RPM
Chassis 3325 RPM
Power Supply 2523 RPM
Fan #2 2909 RPM
Fan #4 1467 RPM
Fan #5 4963 RPM
GPU1 3547 RPM (70%)
GPU2 3300 RPM (63%)

Voltage Values:
CPU Core 1.31 V
+3.3 V 3.23 V
+5 V 4.95 V
+12 V 11.71 V
+5 V Standby 4.84 V
VBAT Battery 3.02 V
FSB VTT 1.38 V
North Bridge Core 1.34 V
South Bridge Core 1.52 V
HyperTransport 1.26 V
DIMM 1.97 V
DIMM VTT 0.98 V
GPU1: GPU Vcc 3.26 V
GPU2: GPU Vcc 3.28 V
Debug Info F 00EF 00CB FFFF 0000 0000
Debug Info T 32 40 201
Debug Info V 4D CA 00 B8 B7 00 4C (FF)

hope this is what your looking for

yepp fresh latest drivers on everything


----------



## Xel_Naga

Also if it inst a windows vista this application must close box it is a C++ error in like every game ... This is frustrating me soo much!


----------



## designbydave

damn well I have been testing a lot lately and still cannot get above 3 ghz on me E6750.

At 3.2 Ghz I tested vcore from 1.33 up to 1.5 without stability. I also experimented with lowering the CPU VTT from 1.55 but that also did not help. I tried all kinds of combinations of low vcore high vtt, high vcore low vtt and same vcore and vtt. Nothing seemed to work.

I have been running the memory at 400 mhz throughout all the tests.

I don't really know where to go from here. These E6750s seem to be getting pretty high without tons of voltage, but that is not the case with mine.

Do you guys think my memory might be holding me back? Like I said, I have been running it at the stock 400mhz...


----------



## designbydave

Quote:



Originally Posted by *colt1911*


It just spontaneously restarts with no BSOD. Cpu volts = 1.3v, 1.2vHT=1.30v, NB=1.30v, SB= auto, cpu vtt=1.3v. FSB is at 1533 now.


spontaneous restarts in XP/Vista usually is a BSOD, but instead of showing you the BSOD the computer just restarts which is what you need to do anyways. I guess thats Microsoft's way of making windows look like it crashes less









To change this behavior and have Windows show you the error message without auto-restarting:

System Properties > Advanced > (Startup and Recovery) Settings, uncheck the Automatically Restart box in the System Failure Section


----------



## Litlratt

@Xel
Try ht 1.3
nb 1.4
sb 1.5
vtt 1.55
vcore is up to you but if you were Orthos stable at a particular, try it there. Ensure that you have disabled everything Robilar suggested on first page of thread.
You can experiment with the SLI aperture though.
Make sure memory is unlinked, regardless of divider. No SLI memory, disable it.
Unusual that you would have issues with all those games. It could be something other than your overclock.

@design
That only works for Vista initiated restarts.


----------



## colt1911

Thanks CplRusty , I put in those settings and I'm now running at 3.6 stable and no issues and thank you all for the help.


----------



## Xel_Naga

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
@Xel
Try ht 1.3
nb 1.4
sb 1.5
vtt 1.55
vcore is up to you but if you were Orthos stable at a particular, try it there.


Quote:

Ensure that you have disabled everything Robilar suggested on first page of thread.
Did that first thing when i got the board

Quote:

You can experiment with the SLI aperture though.
Is this under SLI ram?
Because i cant enable sli ram because I guess due to the fact that I dont have SLI ram but isnt that just a gimmic? or is their really some truth to "SLI ram"?

Quote:

Make sure memory is unlinked, regardless of divider.
I'm currently running unlinked with ram locked in at 800. i've also ran memtest for an hour and no issues.

Quote:

No SLI memory, disable it.
Cant even enable it.

Quote:

@design
That only works for Vista initiated restarts.
well i decided to go back and re try orthos last night.... didnt make it past 2 hrs.... so what you thinking the issue is? problems is if i raise the vcore i believe the system is locking up due to core temps going higher than 71C does that sound about right? but! is that be cause im running all 4 cores? where in the real world the 4 cores wont run peged like that for hours on end. or do you think I need to reseat the heatsink? here is the thing the CPU reading in everest says like 59-61 but on the cores its saying 71C -74c when it hard locks. I hope im making some sence. Also just to let you know that maybe it will be more helpfull. I backed the FSB down to give me a 3.2 and now everything plays but still crashes eventually. I can get a full round and a half on UT3 before crashing.


----------



## Xel_Naga

so i have tried your voltages in combination with 1.35vcore ... ut launches and runs for a little bit then crashes... now if i contiue up the crashing gets worse and at 1.4+ other applications stop launching even everest!.... im am soo puzzled with this. do you think i have a dud? do you think i have dmg'd the chip?


----------



## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *designbydave*


damn well I have been testing a lot lately and still cannot get above 3 ghz on me E6750.

At 3.2 Ghz I tested vcore from 1.33 up to 1.5 without stability. I also experimented with lowering the CPU VTT from 1.55 but that also did not help. I tried all kinds of combinations of low vcore high vtt, high vcore low vtt and same vcore and vtt. Nothing seemed to work.

I have been running the memory at 400 mhz throughout all the tests.

I don't really know where to go from here. These E6750s seem to be getting pretty high without tons of voltage, but that is not the case with mine.

Do you guys think my memory might be holding me back? Like I said, I have been running it at the stock 400mhz...


Keep vtt at 1.55 and try vcore 1.4v and 401 FSB.

I've used Rob's settings and kept my RAM default. I have 1.4vcore and 400FSB 24hrs stable. Vcore may be different for you. It's different for everyone. Unfortunately I need 1.4. I haven't had time to mess with other settings so right now I just have these.


----------



## Xel_Naga

guys this just does not make sence to me I have droped down to 3.1 and I'm still not game stable ..... GRRRR what is up is my cpu toast? or a dud? any input?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xel_Naga*


guys this just does not make sence to me I have droped down to 3.1 and I'm still not game stable ..... GRRRR what is up is my cpu toast? or a dud? any input?


PMed you. Check your private messages.


----------



## designbydave

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slytown* 
Keep vtt at 1.55 and try vcore 1.4v and 401 FSB.

I've used Rob's settings and kept my RAM default. I have 1.4vcore and 400FSB 24hrs stable. Vcore may be different for you. It's different for everyone. Unfortunately I need 1.4. I haven't had time to mess with other settings so right now I just have these.

thanks for the suggestion. I remember reading that some people experience FSB "holes" I guess that could be my problem as well. Testing now...

UPDATE EDIT: Still not stable at 1.4 - 1.45 vcore with those settings.







If I left the vcore setting to auto, it would get like 1.52 volts but that getting up to the dangerous region right?


----------



## Scooby-Snack

Hey guys I have a E6850 and I can't seem to get this board to overclock at all... was hoping one of you guys might have the same/similar setup and be able to give me some baseline settings?? Wonder why this board isnt as easy to OC as my P5Bdeluxe was??

Thanks for any help !!


----------



## Robilar

It should be easier. With my settings remember that you will have to give it vcore, 4 gb of ram is a bit problematic (take of 2 gb and try it), and your power supply may not have cleant 12v rails (which this board needs). Also are those two 8800gtx or something else you have because a pair of gtx with that power supply are going to be very strained to be stable even at stock.


----------



## Scooby-Snack

Can you please explain what you mean by clean rails?? I just purchased a new 750watt Real Power Pro Cool Master (states that its Nvidia Sli Ready) I will follow your settings again plus remove 2gb of ram as well....


----------



## designbydave

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Scooby-Snack* 
Can you please explain what you mean by clean rails??

Pretty sure that means that the power supply can deliver steady power without fluctuating...


----------



## Anubis_offline

Hello boys & girls, finally Anubis hits the 400fsb spot.
After many days of frustrating oc'en I finally get mine hands on Thremalerright overthetop cpu cooler and Silverstone thing, hallelujah 3,6Mhz, Eureka mem at 4-4-4-5.
Oc'en cost more money the mine girlfriend what it cost more money the mine mortgage!

Vcorev 1.6
Mem v2.250
Ht v1.4
Nb v1.55
Sb v1.6
Vvt v1.55

3DM06 11399









Take care and have A Dennis the Menace hardware Christmas and happy Oc New Year!


----------



## Litlratt

Congrats Anubis.
More often than not, it seems to be about aftermarket cooling.


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Congrats Anubis.
More often than not, it seems to be about aftermarket cooling.


Thx Ratt, yes its al about aftermarket cooling thanks to you and this fora in know!

Next step swiftech


----------



## Mozzie

Thats my settings:

FSB-Memory Clock Mode:Unlinked
FSB(QDR) mhz: 1500 (at 1600mhz cant boot bios screen freaking out or just dont boot)
Actual FSB:1500
MEM:800
Actual mem:800
----------------
Vcore-1.500V (try 1.525V rig dont boot at all)
Memory Voltage:2.100V
1.2v HT Voltage: 1.3V
NB Core Voltage:1.4V
SB Core Voltage:1.55V
CPU VTT Voltage:1.4V
(rest auto)
----------------------
Timings as follow:

tCL:4
tRcd:4
tRP:4
tRAS:12
Command per clock:2 clocks (2T)
(still cant do 1066mhz)

3DMark06 12850

What alse I can change to make faster!?????

I wane go faster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## USlatin

congrats Anubis!

boy am I'm gonna miss my GTS...


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mozzie* 
Thats my settings:

FSB-Memory Clock Mode:Unlinked
FSB(QDR) mhz: 1500 (at 1600mhz cant boot bios screen freaking out or just dont boot)
Actual FSB:1500
MEM:800
Actual mem:800
----------------
Vcore-1.500V (try 1.525V rig dont boot at all)
Memory Voltage:2.100V
1.2v HT Voltage: 1.3V
NB Core Voltage:1.4V
SB Core Voltage:1.55V
CPU VTT Voltage:1.4V
(rest auto)
----------------------
Timings as follow:

tCL:4
tRcd:4
tRP:4
tRAS:12
Command per clock:2 clocks (2T)
(still cant do 1066mhz)

3DMark06 12850

What alse I can change to make faster!?????

I wane go faster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Try this settings and leave mem on auto.
I have more speed leaving mem on 800Mhz and setting 4-4-4-5 T1 then set mem on 1066Mhz 5-5-5-15 T2.
Some E6600 like mine are very hard to oc don't give up just get some aftermarkt cooling!

Vcorev1.5375 go 2 up if it will not boot (v1.6 is save to try whats your temp!)
Memory Voltage:2.250
1.2v HT Voltage: 1.4V
NB Core Voltage:1.55V
SB Core Voltage:1.55V, 1.6
CPU VTT Voltage:1.55V


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
congrats Anubis!

boy am I'm gonna miss my GTS...









Thx m8, me to thats why Anubis has his GTS on the desk beside picture girlfriend.
( and no I am not nuts i love hardware







.
Mebie you have spot on the wall to, make a frame create some harwardArt!
still not sure wich chipset to go for, X38, X48 ore 780i, 790i, E8400 2 x 8800GT sounds nice upgarde for 2008. and this puts mine thought in the direction 780i, 790i.


----------



## Mozzie

Thanx Anubis will try the setting later!


----------



## Baked

I have the Asus P5N32-E SLI Plus board. I am upgrading to Vista 64bit home premium. Should I get my chipset drives from asus's site (which are beta) or from nvidias? If I go with Nvidia's should they be the 650i or 680i chipset drives?

thanks


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Baked* 
I have the Asus P5N32-E SLI Plus board. I am upgrading to Vista 64bit home premium. Should I get my chipset drives from asus's site (which are beta) or from nvidias? If I go with Nvidia's should they be the 650i or 680i chipset drives?

thanks

Stick to the Nvidia drivers, ore pay a viste Guru3d site for nice overview of the latest drivers!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Baked* 
I have the Asus P5N32-E SLI Plus board. I am upgrading to Vista 64bit home premium. Should I get my chipset drives from asus's site (which are beta) or from nvidias? If I go with Nvidia's should they be the 650i or 680i chipset drives? (SNIP!)

I agree. Stick with Nvidia drivers. 15.08 is the latest, and you'll want to get 650i drivers for the plus (***EDIT: Just found out they are the same file).
The link is HERE.


----------



## spider_d

hi, I'm new to the forum. I have been around xtreme systems for a few years and have built a watercooled rig. I am starting to overclock it and would like some advice and feedback.

E6600 at 3600
Bios 1203 (after working with 1205 unsuccesfully)
Vcore: 1.5375
memory: 2.075
1.2V HT: 1.4
NB: 1.55
SB: 1.6
VTT: 1.55

Timing 4-4-4-12-1T (memory tested by Corsair to these settings at 2.1v max)

GPU = eVGA 8800 gts 320mb (8800gt on order)
core: 710 (from 510)
Clock: 1620 (from 1188)
Memory: 1000 (from 790)
Temps are good showing 42 at the diode and 33 GPU in Everest.

Ambient near 25, Idle around 44-45, Load up to 58 (coretemp, everest)

Any suggestions? Seems to be Orthos stable and 3dmark at 11481, SuperPi
1M in 14sec.

Can I run this 24/7 safely? Can I get more out of it?

Cooling is Thermochill PA120.3, DDC-2 18W pump with petra's top, D-Tek Fuzion, MWC60.

Thanks








By spider_d, shot with NIKON D50 at 2007-12-11


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

It looks like a nice setup, but all your voltages look high, especially your NB/SB considering you still have stock chipset cooling (it looks that way from your picture). Do you need them that high?

The other two thing: Can you cancel your GT order or RMA it for a G92 8800GTS? The latter came out yesterday and performs much better (in some benches, outperforming a GTX) and costs just a bit more.


----------



## spider_d

I just lowered all the voltages except Vcore = 1.3125, and memory = 2.075. I lowered the FSB to 355.5 (3200MHz) because I found instability in Crysis. The game was locking and crashing.

This seems stable, but I would like to get it solid at 3.6.

@Dostoyevsky77, thanks for the input. I've cancelled the order and am investigating the new 8800 gts.


----------



## slytown

Past 400FSB you need aftermarket cooling, so unless you have an unlocked multi you're kinda stuck on this board with the hardware it comes with.

You should get a good waterblock for the NB if you can and buy some cheap mosfets and a Spirit II for the SB, or maybe another block for the SB.


----------



## xc90

hi everyone !!
first of all i apologise about my English,
my question is? does anyone please tell me what are the safe volt for the northbridge and the safe temp of the motherboard??
Thanks


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xc90*


hi everyone !!
first of all i apologise about my English,
my question is? does anyone please tell me what are the safe volt for the northbridge and the safe temp of the motherboard??
Thanks


It depends on what kind cooling you have!
Vcore v1.55/v1.6 if you have Thermaleright, Tuniq tower, Wc
Nb v1.4
Nb with aftmarktcooling v1.55
Sb v1.4
Sb v1.55/v1.60 with aftermarktcooling
Works for me, it doesnâ€™t necessary will works for you!
Moboâ€™s behave like people, on mobo ( P5N32-e SLi) are the same.


----------



## ReignsOfPower

I am using an ASUS Striker Extreme motherboard on version 1305 BIOS. Whenever I try to increase the FSB even slightly, the whole PC locks up on POST. Im forced to remove the BIOS battery in order to ge tthe computer working again. Is this a Firmware problem? If so, what version should I roll back to?
Thanks!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Wow. I just POST'ed to 4.050 with 450*9, but Vista gives me a BSOD right after the GUI loads. This is so exciting for me... I hope to mess with this more before I hawk my QX6700 for an E8500.

ReignsOfPower, what are your voltages? Are you certain your PSU is up to the task of SLI'ed GTs and the extra draw for OC?


----------



## Rikochet

First Post need some help....

System Specs.
P5n32-SLI 1205 Bios
Intel Q6600 G0 Stepping
Thermalright ULTRA-120 Extreme 6
OCZ Platinum XTC PC2-6400 4GB 2X2GB DDR2-800 CL5-4-4-15 
2 X Galaxy GeForce 8800GT
Enermax Liberty ELT620AWT 620W
Soundblaster Live Elite
2 x 74G Western Digital Raptors

Several Questions.

My time is very very limited.

Is ntune a worthwhile app to use to overclock? If it isnt....

I know overclocking takes time and patience --- both which I have little of
I haven't overclocked a new system in 3 years ... Alot has changed but it still follows the same principles. I have read the guide thoroughly.

My problem is I dont have the time to mess with fine tuning. I would like someone to suggest settings based on my hardware for a quick/stable decent overclock. It doesnt have to be near the maximum overclock with days of fine tuning for my hardware but something alot better than the current 2.4ghz. 3.0-3.2 would satisfy me if thats possible quickly.

Anyways thanks for any help.

I hope i didnt't offend anyone with this request.


----------



## designbydave

@ Rikochet

Unfortunately I don't think there is ever a quick and easy overclock. Everyone's system is different. The time and effort required is the nature of the beast.

I thought my E6750 would be a cake walk to get running at 3.2ghz (after reading an article on Tom's Hardware http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/11/...uad/index.html) ((BTW check that article, they overclock the Q6600)) Unfortunately that has not been the case. I get rock solid stability at 3 ghz, but anything more will be unstable. I have spent many hours and have still been unable to get anything faster than 3ghz.

But then again, your situation might be different. Start with that Tom's Hardware article, might be useful too you.


----------



## Rikochet

I was hoping someone with very a similiar system could suggest settings they are using that gives them a stable overclock. Again I know every system is different, even with the identical hardware. Im not asking for the max overclock for my system just suggested settings that would probably give my 99% chance of success and a decent performance increase.

Is ntune a viable alternative?

Im reading the Toms Hardware guide there now...thx for the link


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Wow. I just POST'ed to 4.050 with 450*9, but Vista gives me a BSOD right after the GUI loads. This is so exciting for me... I hope to mess with this more before I hawk my QX6700 for an E8500.

ReignsOfPower, what are your voltages? Are you certain your PSU is up to the task of SLI'ed GTs and the extra draw for OC?


Congrats Dosto








It wouldn't surprise me that you're a setting or two away from being able to bench there.


----------



## designbydave

I haven't used ntune, I just go through the BIOS settings...


----------



## Spielberg

Hey guys I am new in this forum, sorry for my english. I only want to show u some pictures of my system, mayby it'll be interesting for someone. I am big fan of this board!


----------



## USlatin

wow dude... can you say SB cooling overkill?
welcome!

I know you had to think about this a million ways, but are you sure there is no way to get that cooler on the NB instead... just asking, probably beating a dead horse

SO... remember the little swiftechs on the mosfets? well they kept falling even with the 3M thermally conductive adhesive tape... I HAD IT!!! but instead of beating the whole rig with a bat like I wanted to I hacked thestock mosfet HS off... that's right I cut those pipes... now I got the same cooling on the fets like Rating... and I don't have to worry about them falling off... I hate how the first row is covered but the inner row is only partially in contact... but with such overkill I shouldn't worry...
I am just happy those aren't going anywhere!!


----------



## xc90

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anubis_offline*


It depends on what kind cooling you have!
Vcore v1.55/v1.6 if you have Thermaleright, Tuniq tower, Wc
Nb v1.4
Nb with aftmarktcooling v1.55
Sb v1.4
Sb v1.55/v1.60 with aftermarktcooling
Works for me, it doesnâ€™t necessary will works for you!
Moboâ€™s behave like people, on mobo ( P5N32-e SLi) are the same.


hi there thanks for the help,
my motherboard is full wc, i mean 
NB WC
SB WC
Mofets WC
And a fan over the memory sticks 
the actually the temp is in full orthos for a 4 hours about 25 /26 max
there some one that told my for a cpu over clock with less vcore i must increase the voltage on the NB, is this right? 
A have a e6400 rev l2, and i what to get 3.4ghz with the less vcore possible, any ideas? 
Thanks.


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower*


I am using an ASUS Striker Extreme motherboard on version 1305 BIOS. Whenever I try to increase the FSB even slightly, the whole PC locks up on POST. Im forced to remove the BIOS battery in order to ge tthe computer working again. Is this a Firmware problem? If so, what version should I roll back to?
Thanks!










1303 is the best bios for OC it does have a fsb hole, but made for much easier overclocking than 1305. Unfortunately I don't have a link for you but you could google it and find some links that way. I won't lie the striker was a very finicky board when it came to getting a good oc and I have had two sata ports burn out. I have seen some insane c2d oc's on it. For quads about the best I have gotten is 3.4 on air, but it wasn't 8hr p95 solid. I had to back down to 3.25 to get it perfectly stable again. The voltages at that oc were well within Intel guidlines for the procs.


----------



## DADBBAD

Hello everyone. I just completed my first computer build. Fun and educational project! Now I'm trying my luck at overclocking. Going in small steps since I'm new to this. This is where I'm at now.
















I seem to be stuck here. It runs stable under orthos. Idles at 39c and the hottest I've seen is 56c. The memory is unlinked and I havent changed anything except for entering timings manualy. At this point if I try bumping my fsb anymore I get a blue screen with a memory dump message. Voltages set at auto and I notice my v core will drop as low as 1.25 under load. What would be my next step to take here? My goal is 3.0 mhz on the cpu. From what I've read here that shouldnt be a problem. Just dont want to melt anything along the way. LOL Any help is appreciated!


----------



## slytown

So did it work Uslatin? I wanted to do that and everyone screamed No! I like ur christmas avatar theme by the way.









Nice job Dosty!


----------



## shizam

Hey Guys
I am having some issues with my setup. I initially followed the settings from this thread and had a perfectly stable 3600 oc. I slowly started to get lock ups and blue screens until one day the system would'nt even post. I have ensured all cooling is adequate and the temps indicated are the same as when I built the system.
If I try to set an FSB of 1600 (400) it wont even post. Just dead.
I am maxed out now at 3150.
I started getting issues after an upgrade to bios but this may be a coincidence.
I cleared the cmos, set defaults in the bios and flashed it to 1205 again.
Any suggestions on how to get back to 3600 stable?
Thanks
S


----------



## USlatin

Yea it did... it was easy to put it on without having to remove the mobo too!

WittleRatin has it too... I guess for selling it to someone else you might want to keep the pipes but I said to myself that if I switch to an other MoBo it would be the ABIT IP35 Pro which can OC my quad with the stock NB cooler as long as you got a fan on it... so I can sell mine with the aftrermarket cooling on it, and I needed to get a more freakin' permanent solution already!


----------



## Robilar

I still don't know why my swiftech's stayed on so well (other than the heat up process I used). I actually had to work to get them off when I sold the board.

The thermalright mosfet coolers are tempting I must say...


----------



## WuNgUn

Go back to your old BIOS...you DID back it up, right?
1203 beta has been the best for a lot of guys when overclocking...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizam* 
Hey Guys
I am having some issues with my setup. I initially followed the settings from this thread and had a perfectly stable 3600 oc. I slowly started to get lock ups and blue screens until one day the system would'nt even post. I have ensured all cooling is adequate and the temps indicated are the same as when I built the system.
If I try to set an FSB of 1600 (400) it wont even post. Just dead.
I am maxed out now at 3150.
I started getting issues after an upgrade to bios but this may be a coincidence.
I cleared the cmos, set defaults in the bios and flashed it to 1205 again.
Any suggestions on how to get back to 3600 stable?
Thanks
S


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rikochet* 
(SNIP!)Is ntune a viable alternative?(SNIP!)

nTune's automatic overclocking feature is probably the single worst thing you could do - using software - to your computer.

The words "automatic" and "overclocking" are never used in the same sentence unless they precede words like "holy crap, what was I thinking", "my whole rig is bricked", "next time, I'll use BIOS", and "the fire department is on their way to put out the fiery embers of what was once my computer but is now a pile of ash and charred metal".

That's just my opinion, but I think the majority of others parallel my own.


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EAT*


1303 is the best bios for OC it does have a fsb hole, but made for much easier overclocking than 1305. Unfortunately I don't have a link for you but you could google it and find some links that way. I won't lie the striker was a very finicky board when it came to getting a good oc and I have had two sata ports burn out. I have seen some insane c2d oc's on it. For quads about the best I have gotten is 3.4 on air, but it wasn't 8hr p95 solid. I had to back down to 3.25 to get it perfectly stable again. The voltages at that oc were well within Intel guidlines for the procs.


See the thing is though, when I do overclock even the slightest I completely lock up and can't do a thing.
I was thinking it was because of this:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ml#post3095701

If that's not the case, does anyone have a link for 1303 BIOS?


----------



## trueg50

I picked up some thermaltape off Ebay for $15 shipped for 6 1 " x 6 " strips, worked better than the swiftechs! I found the trick is to scrub the **** off the Mosfets with alchohol.

Well, it looks like I finally killed my board.

It started out as the first RAM channel dying, so I cannot run RAM in slots 1 or 3 in such a way that they are in dual channel. Second channel (slots 2 and 4) works great, along with slots 1 and 2 or 1 and 4.

Then I started getting "RAID access failures", finally progressing to my sound card crackling when I open multiple windows and switch around them, games would freeze, and a 1 second interval of sound would play, looped for about 30 seconds, then the game would resume.

I suddenly realize my problem, my northbridge was damaged (most likely due to running 400FSB for 5-6 months with stock cooling all the way up to 32 degree's C (90 degree's F) ambient in my house for extended period of time.).

Just a sign they you should use adequate aftermarket cooling on these boards. I bought my TR HR-05 IFX and HR-05 SLI IFX (southbridge) too late, only after I damaged the memory controller / channel.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trueg50*


I picked up some thermaltape off Ebay for $15 shipped for 6 1 " x 6 " strips, worked better than the swiftechs! I found the trick is to scrub the **** off the Mosfets with alchohol.

Well, it looks like I finally killed my board.

It started out as the first RAM channel dying, so I cannot run RAM in slots 1 or 3 in such a way that they are in dual channel. Second channel (slots 2 and 4) works great, along with slots 1 and 2 or 1 and 4.

Then I started getting "RAID access failures", finally progressing to my sound card crackling when I open multiple windows and switch around them, games would freeze, and a 1 second interval of sound would play, looped for about 30 seconds, then the game would resume.

I suddenly realize my problem, my northbridge was damaged (most likely due to running 400FSB for 5-6 months with stock cooling all the way up to 32 degree's C (90 degree's F) ambient in my house for extended period of time.).

Just a sign they you should use adequate aftermarket cooling on these boards. I bought my TR HR-05 IFX and HR-05 SLI IFX (southbridge) too late, only after I damaged the memory controller / channel.


lol a sign... You should have read the start of my guide and onwards. Just about everyone here with the P5N32-E ended up going to nb and sb active cooling mighty quick especially after some members (cogno.....) fried their nb.

unless you run close to stock, the 680i boards need active cooling. Asus is to blame here for not putting an active cooling solution on their board.


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower*


See the thing is though, when I do overclock even the slightest I completely lock up and can't do a thing.
I was thinking it was because of this:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ml#post3095701

If that's not the case, does anyone have a link for 1303 BIOS?



http://www.lejabeach.com/ASUS/Striker/SE1303.zip

Tested this one and the link works. 1303 is getting harder to find so snag it soon. Walk me through what you've done in the bios so far. I found 1305 to be fairly stable while ocing it just didnt allow for much. I think i hit a wall at about 3.0 or so, but its been awhile. You should be getting some type of OC, The striker isnt awesome with quads, but its not awfull. I've seen lots of evidence to prove 3.4 on q6600 using air is completely possible, but may take a lot of effort. So just fill us in on what you've tried so we can try to lend a hand


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EAT*


http://www.lejabeach.com/ASUS/Striker/SE1303.zip

Tested this one and the link works. 1303 is getting harder to find so snag it soon. Walk me through what you've done in the bios so far. I found 1305 to be fairly stable while ocing it just didnt allow for much. I think i hit a wall at about 3.0 or so, but its been awhile. You should be getting some type of OC, The striker isnt awesome with quads, but its not awfull. I've seen lots of evidence to prove 3.4 on q6600 using air is completely possible, but may take a lot of effort. So just fill us in on what you've tried so we can try to lend a hand










Thank you so much for being willing to help me out








All I'm doing mate is going to overclocks and unlinking the FSB and RAM. Then I'm bumping up the FSB speed and saving it. For eg. I've put it on 1200 and then saved it and restarted. On restart computer locks up, doesnt go past the memory check, can't press Delete to get into the BIOS and fix it up or anything. I bought my Asus Striker Extreme only 3 weeks ago, so it should be one of the latest revisions.

Any ideas mate?


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower*


Thank you so much for being willing to help me out








All I'm doing mate is going to overclocks and unlinking the FSB and RAM. Then I'm bumping up the FSB speed and saving it. For eg. I've put it on 1200 and then saved it and restarted. On restart computer locks up, doesnt go past the memory check, can't press Delete to get into the BIOS and fix it up or anything. I bought my Asus Striker Extreme only 3 weeks ago, so it should be one of the latest revisions.

Any ideas mate?


What have you disabled in the bios? The guide on the first page is awesome and works for the striker as well. PROPs to Robilar. Use the settings there for what should and shouldnt be enabled. Have you added any vcore and taken your voltages off of auto? Also the striker has that awesome post lcd on the back panel. What does it read before or during lockup?


----------



## trueg50

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


lol a sign... You should have read the start of my guide and onwards. Just about everyone here with the P5N32-E ended up going to nb and sb active cooling mighty quick especially after some members (cogno.....) fried their nb.

unless you run close to stock, the 680i boards need active cooling. Asus is to blame here for not putting an active cooling solution on their board.


You live, you learn, you RMA.

At least this time I will have active cooling from the start.

Ya know I was just thinking to my self that if Cog. hadn't fried her board, then I should be safe.. guess not.


----------



## nicoloco

Hi, guys! I have the 1302 bios version if I am not mistaken. I am having problems clocking my CPU. I helped a friend clocking his Q6600 on a XFX Motherboard, and every time I changed a setting it allowed me to reboot. On my P5N32-e SLI it won't even boot when I change the settings in the bios (i.e FSB). It just restarts and goes blank. When I reset my computer it boots back up with the previous working settings, but if I enter the BIOS the changes I made are still there under the FSB menu.

I don't understand, when you guys say you have i.e 450 FSB, I only have a menu which says I can adjust from 1333 (stock).

Please help a noob out.









I have a E6750 on this mobo with 4 gigs 6400 RAM, if that helps.


----------



## trueg50

It is Asus's way of saving you from having to reset the CMOS.

You will still see the last tested settings so that you have something to reference, but it will restore your chip to defaults if the boot fails. You have an unstable overclock, that is why it is doing this.


----------



## nicoloco

Thanks, mate. OK, good. Don't want to move that jumper.









Still: Where do I adjust the fsb? I guess the modifier is locked. Anybody here got an example of a stable overclock with this mobo, 4 gigs of 6400 ram and a E6750?

Thanks, trueg50!


----------



## trueg50

BIOS settings (.05 vdroop for CPU, and +05 for all other voltages) 
vcore: 1.48 
Memory: 2.125 
1.2v: 1.3 
Northbridge: 1.45 
Southbridge: 1.55 
CPU Vtt 1.55 (always set this to max, does not effect temps)

CPU voltage, speed, and memory voltage and speed should be different for you.

The FSB is in the advanced tab, set the ratio to "unlinked".


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicoloco*


(SNIP!) Still: Where do I adjust the fsb? I guess the modifier is locked. Anybody here got an example of a stable overclock with this mobo, 4 gigs of 6400 ram and a E6750? (SNIP!)


If you click the E6750 link in my signature, you'll see where I got to. 3.82 is probably a little higher than necessary, but you can easily get 3.6 or so with 450FSB, which you can probably pair at 1:1 with your RAM at 900MHz. If you can't get it that high, you'll have to dial back your FSB. I needed a lot more (0.1v) vCore to run my E6750 than others were reporting, so start higher than you expect. Even with 1.525v, I never even got close to 60(c) with my Tuniq. I did have to use CoreTemp, however. No other program gave me consistently sensible temperatures.


----------



## trueg50

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


I did have to use CoreTemp, however. No other program gave me consistently sensible temperatures.


What temperatures did the other temp monitoring software give you?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Everest and RT's coretemp add-on both read way too cool. They read in the mid- to high-thirties on stress when ambient was probably around 26. Speedfan said most of my temperatures were well below zero. I want to believe them all, but I knew it couldn't be.

Coretemp gave me mid-fifties at load and mid-thirties idle. This made much more sense, so I accepted it as truth.

My QX6700 reports correctly both on this board and on my P5N-E SLI. And the E6750 reports correctly on the P5N-E as well. It's only E6750 + P5N32-E that is jacked.


----------



## slytown

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Yea it did... it was easy to put it on without having to remove the mobo too!

WittleRatin has it too... I guess for selling it to someone else you might want to keep the pipes but I said to myself that if I switch to an other MoBo it would be the ABIT IP35 Pro which can OC my quad with the stock NB cooler as long as you got a fan on it... so I can sell mine with the aftrermarket cooling on it, and I needed to get a more freakin' permanent solution already!

So what did you use to cut them off? I'm so doing this now.







I think i'll just buy the swiftechs anyway in case it doesn't work. I just didn't want to spend all that money on the Thermalright mosfets to get good mosfets.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I cut mine off with some wire cutters. It's like cutting through butter. It's probably a good idea NOT to pinch off the pipe at the end like I did.

If you buy the Swiftechs, you'll probably want better tape than what comes with them. Robilar seems like the only one who had any success with that stuff. There's a link in my sig for a free thermal tape sample. It's a sheet about 8.5" x 11", so it's more than plenty!


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EAT* 
What have you disabled in the bios? The guide on the first page is awesome and works for the striker as well. PROPs to Robilar. Use the settings there for what should and shouldnt be enabled. Have you added any vcore and taken your voltages off of auto? Also the striker has that awesome post lcd on the back panel. What does it read before or during lockup?

No idea what the POST LCD at the back reads, I never bothered to turn the Case around to read it lol.

I have disabeled everything in the BIOS (speedstep, C1 thing, etc etc) The only thing that is enabeled is some nVidia thing (SLi Ram is disabeled too) I have left the voltages on auto and uped fsb, lock up. Another time I upped the FSB and upped the volates to the more recommended levels as specified in this guide. Lock up. Both times had to remove BIOS battery in order to get computer to even load (which is a pain).

I havnt tried 1303 yet though, is 1305 that bad for quad cores? Or do you think that I need to dothat modification with the resistors for it to work? I really dont want to tamper with small electronics like that!


----------



## juanchipms

hi guys i've spend some time reading all this posts. Im trying to overclock my q6600 but i cant get it to 3 ghz the bios wont post. i dont know if is because i still have the passive cooling for the chipset or because im doing something wrong. any help that someone has with this mobo and q6600 share it with me plz. btw i have update the bios to the last version.

specs
thermaltake V1 cooler
q6600
evga 8800gtx overclock
wester digital 10k rpm


----------



## EAT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower* 
No idea what the POST LCD at the back reads, I never bothered to turn the Case around to read it lol.

I have disabeled everything in the BIOS (speedstep, C1 thing, etc etc) The only thing that is enabeled is some nVidia thing (SLi Ram is disabeled too) I have left the voltages on auto and uped fsb, lock up. Another time I upped the FSB and upped the volates to the more recommended levels as specified in this guide. Lock up. Both times had to remove BIOS battery in order to get computer to even load (which is a pain).

I havnt tried 1303 yet though, is 1305 that bad for quad cores? Or do you think that I need to dothat modification with the resistors for it to work? I really dont want to tamper with small electronics like that!









That nvidia gpu ex thing hindered my oc. Definetly disable it. Also there is a better way to reset the cmos. Its one of the great things about this board. If you grab your manual and look up the cmos switch it will tell you, that there is a jumper right near the front panel connects that has to be moved to enable the cmos button, thats the grayish switch right at the bottom right corner of the board that will light up when you get that jumper moved. Pressing that button once its enabled will be the same as pulling the battery. Make sure you read those portions of the manual. That switch and the lcd poster on the back panel are the main reasons that many oveclockers purchase this board vs. the p5n that the thread was intended for. I have faith even with the crappy 1305 bios you should get a decent overclock. If you want a more aggressive one you will have to try 1303 or another bios. 1305 works great up to a certain point and then you just feel like no matter what you do, you won't get any farther. As for the resistor mod, that will help you get much better OC's , but in no means is needed to get fairly good OC's out of this board.


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *juanchipms*


hi guys i've spend some time reading all this posts. Im trying to overclock my q6600 but i cant get it to 3 ghz the bios wont post. i dont know if is because i still have the passive cooling for the chipset or because im doing something wrong. any help that someone has with this mobo and q6600 share it with me plz. btw i have update the bios to the last version.


It appears that BIOS version 1205 is not very good for OC'ng the Q6600. I am pretty peeved myself...I threw my P5N-E out the window for the P5N32-E and it shipped with BIOS 1205...Anyone, Anyone out there with 1203??? And if it only caused problems with Razor hw, why would Asus pull it completely??
I have been able to OC the Q6600 to almost 1300 FSB, but only with Vcore at auto (was showing as 1.64V in CPU-Z?? Kinda high, no??) Tomorrow have to cut the NB HS off and put on my Ex spirit II. My kingdom (okay, many kudos) for a copy of 1203 for this thing!!!!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo*


It appears that BIOS version 1205 is not very good for OC'ng the Q6600. I am pretty peeved myself...I threw my P5N-E out the window for the P5N32-E and it shipped with BIOS 1205...Anyone, Anyone out there with 1203??? And if it only caused problems with Razor hw, why would Asus pull it completely??
I have been able to OC the Q6600 to almost 1300 FSB, but only with Vcore at auto (was showing as 1.64V in CPU-Z?? Kinda high, no??) Tomorrow have to cut the NB HS off and put on my Ex spirit II. My kingdom (okay, many kudos) for a copy of 1203 for this thing!!!!


ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...P5N32-E%20SLI/


----------



## Ajimboalogo

LitlRatt,

Rep+ to you!!!! Thanks for the quick reply. But seriously, 3.6Ghz on the Q6600??!!!?? You gotta let me know how you did that!!! Cheers!!!!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo*


LitlRatt,

Rep+ to you!!!! Thanks for the quick reply. But seriously, 3.6Ghz on the Q6600??!!!?? You gotta let me know how you did that!!! Cheers!!!!


Jump the hole and try 450 X 8.
1.2=1.3
vcore=1.43125
nb=1.5
sb=1.6
vtt=1.55
nb is under water.
sb is active air.


----------



## juanchipms

hey Ajimboaloa let me know hot it goes with the chipset cooling. i think im gonna get it but i dont know if for both nb and sb or just for nb. I dont know if the active cooling for the nb are gonna fit because my cpu cooler is to dam big. lol


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EAT* 
That nvidia gpu ex thing hindered my oc. Definetly disable it. Also there is a better way to reset the cmos. Its one of the great things about this board. If you grab your manual and look up the cmos switch it will tell you, that there is a jumper right near the front panel connects that has to be moved to enable the cmos button, thats the grayish switch right at the bottom right corner of the board that will light up when you get that jumper moved. Pressing that button once its enabled will be the same as pulling the battery. Make sure you read those portions of the manual. That switch and the lcd poster on the back panel are the main reasons that many oveclockers purchase this board vs. the p5n that the thread was intended for. I have faith even with the crappy 1305 bios you should get a decent overclock. If you want a more aggressive one you will have to try 1303 or another bios. 1305 works great up to a certain point and then you just feel like no matter what you do, you won't get any farther. As for the resistor mod, that will help you get much better OC's , but in no means is needed to get fairly good OC's out of this board.


Ok mate, I'll roll back to 1303 BIOS, disable the nVidia GPU Ex thing and check out the CMOS reset switch jumper fix then try again.

I'll post back once I've finish with the overclock, I'd really like to be able to hit 3.0Ghz on air. Thanks so much buddy!


----------



## EAT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower* 
Ok mate, I'll roll back to 1303 BIOS, disable the nVidia GPU Ex thing and check out the CMOS reset switch jumper fix then try again.

I'll post back once I've finish with the overclock, I'd really like to be able to hit 3.0Ghz on air. Thanks so much buddy!

I will also try to get a few minutes in soon and send my settings on my q6700 and see if that helps you at all. I run a lot of air through my case, but dont have any active cooling on nb. My settings should get you in the ballpark.


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Ok. Moved the jumper switch so I can have access to the CMOS reset button, also downgraded to 1303 BIOS. Disabeled nVidia GPU Ex along with the rest of the other options there.

Guess what, some progress! It must have been the 1305 bios mate, I'd hug you now if I could. I put the FSB to 1333 and put CPU Voltage to 1.3 (or should I have selected a different voltage / auto ) ?

Here's a quick piccy

























I'm idling at about 36degrees. This ok?










This is my 3D Mark Score with Stock GPU speeds and just a simple CPU overclock! AWESOME! How do I give you +Rep now ??? LOL


----------



## EAT

Hey glad to see that number....jealous that your 3dm score is about the same as mine with a GTX! Ok so your voltages are great at 1.31v, what about northbridge volts? Auto sux don't do it unless you can't get stable. Can you run prime95 for 4 cores for over 30min or so? That won't be a final judge of stability, but will give you an idea of how much room you have at those volts. Did you use the xtra temp sensors? If so where did you place em? I think you've done a bang up job, now comes the really fun part, pushing it to the limits without exceeding your temp goal. 36 at idle is fine, I'm guessing you hit about low 60's at load? I won't let mine hit 80 at load. Also keep an eye peeled on the northbridge temp....thats why i asked about the extra temp sensors. I glued one under the felt square surrounding the northbridge so the edge of it was about 1/2 mm away. Runs hot to start with, and it seemed anytime that baybe got more than a few degrees warmer then idle it would cause bsods and the like. Intel specs on the cpu list 1.372 as top end. likely without really good cooling you won't be able hit that and keep your load temps under 80 or so. In fact I couldnt even get close to that without my northbridge overheating and causing instability. I rambled a bit so if you have trouble deciphering my post let me know...







rep button is at the bottom left of the post


----------



## shizam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WuNgUn*


Go back to your old BIOS...you DID back it up, right?
1203 beta has been the best for a lot of guys when overclocking...



I had backed it up but I think I had a bad bios upgrade. I have read that it happens when you dont go back to defaults before upgrading the bios. In any case, I no longer have 1203 available. The FSB settings were jumping around on different boots, the ram self over clocked....weird stuff
What version do you guys think is best for a stable oc?
Where can I get other bios versions from ASUS besides their site which seems to have removed them?
Cheers
S


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EAT*


Hey glad to see that number....jealous that your 3dm score is about the same as mine with a GTX! Ok so your voltages are great at 1.31v, what about northbridge volts? Auto sux don't do it unless you can't get stable. Can you run prime95 for 4 cores for over 30min or so? That won't be a final judge of stability, but will give you an idea of how much room you have at those volts. Did you use the xtra temp sensors? If so where did you place em? I think you've done a bang up job, now comes the really fun part, pushing it to the limits without exceeding your temp goal. 36 at idle is fine, I'm guessing you hit about low 60's at load? I won't let mine hit 80 at load. Also keep an eye peeled on the northbridge temp....thats why i asked about the extra temp sensors. I glued one under the felt square surrounding the northbridge so the edge of it was about 1/2 mm away. Runs hot to start with, and it seemed anytime that baybe got more than a few degrees warmer then idle it would cause bsods and the like. Intel specs on the cpu list 1.372 as top end. likely without really good cooling you won't be able hit that and keep your load temps under 80 or so. In fact I couldnt even get close to that without my northbridge overheating and causing instability. I rambled a bit so if you have trouble deciphering my post let me know...







rep button is at the bottom left of the post










I didnt install any of those optional temperature sensors. I had alot of trouble fitting everything in. SLi and Two HDD's take up alot of space. (I'm a neat wiring freak too so I cant stand stuff everywhere







)

CPU idles at 36ish and the same for the chipset. I've left all the north / south bridge voltages at auto, seems to be fine. Memory I've put up to 2.1 Volts.

I've never seen the chipset go past 45 and never seen the CPU go past 60. GPU's on a low fan mode will sometimes hit 70ish but If I put fan speed up to 60% then they dont go past 60 degrees each. I have a bit fan ontop of the cards on the case blowing outwards so it keeps the ambient temperature down nicely.

Do you think I should alter North/South voltages etc?


----------



## Litlratt

@shizam

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...P5N32-E%20SLI/


----------



## slytown

Ask Rob. I think the striker has a little better cooling so you may be able to up the NB to 1.45v w/o active cooling.


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Ok here we go. Found out my Voltages at 3.0GHz
VCore - 1.31
Memory - 2.1
NB - 1.32
SB - 1.52
CPU VTT - 1.34

Sound ok?

I managed to run Crysis last night for 4 hours full high-details gameplay without and problems, so It looks at though it's quite stable. Do you think I should push the CPU a bit more? I'd probably do it if I can keep it at the same temperature.
Overclocked my GPU's also with RivaTuner. 700Core/1750Shader/2000Memory. These DO run hotter though so when I run 3D applications I put the fan speed up to keep the temperature down (60% fan does the trick) Managed an even better 3D mark score, over 16600. Not particularly happy with RivaTuner however. I'd like it if it had individual fan control for either one of my GPU's and indication that it's overclocking both GPU's and not just the one.


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *juanchipms*


hey Ajimboaloa let me know hot it goes with the chipset cooling. i think im gonna get it but i dont know if for both nb and sb or just for nb. I dont know if the active cooling for the nb are gonna fit because my cpu cooler is to dam big. lol


Downgraded to 1203 last night (thanks again Litlratt) and getting a stable OC of 3Ghz (was at 3.2 but with a very small bit of instability). Installing the Extreme Spirit II was actually fun...some pics to show. It was a tight fit, but a little bit of shimmy here and shimmy there she went okay. NB running about 35C using probes from Zalman ZM-FC2 Fan Controller.

Attachment 61758

Attachment 61759

Attachment 61760

Attachment 61761

Attachment 61762


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower*


Ok here we go. Found out my Voltages at 3.0GHz
VCore - 1.31
Memory - 2.1
NB - 1.32
SB - 1.52
CPU VTT - 1.34

Sound ok?

I managed to run Crysis last night for 4 hours full high-details gameplay without and problems, so It looks at though it's quite stable. Do you think I should push the CPU a bit more? I'd probably do it if I can keep it at the same temperature.
Overclocked my GPU's also with RivaTuner. 700Core/1750Shader/2000Memory. These DO run hotter though so when I run 3D applications I put the fan speed up to keep the temperature down (60% fan does the trick) Managed an even better 3D mark score, over 16600. Not particularly happy with RivaTuner however. I'd like it if it had individual fan control for either one of my GPU's and indication that it's overclocking both GPU's and not just the one.



Looks good and the temps are great. This should leave you with lots of headroom to push your oc if your nb is staying that cool. Mine was in the high 50's at idle originally.


----------



## WuNgUn

My NB runs in the low 40's...and that's on water!


----------



## juanchipms

I seen everybody talking about their nb voltage but i cant find how to check that temp. can someone tell me where to go to check the temp or what program are u using.


----------



## WuNgUn

I use Everest Ultimate Edition...and a sidebar gadget that works with it to show volts, temps, fans, clocks, etc...

Look at the sidebar here...










It's labled "Board"


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

WuNgUn: Where did you get that sidebar app? That looks a lot cooler than Everest's default sidebar. BTW, v169.25 is the latest ForeceWare beta. It came out on the 13th.

Ajimboalogo: Thanks for the pics. Looking good (REP+). Why on earth does your Zalman say "optimized for Nvidia nForce"??? What does a CPU cooler have to do with the chipset? LOL! I love Zalman, but that's ridiculous. Since you have the NB Tt, are you going to use the stock NB HS for your SB? That's what I did. I lapped it and threw on some AS5. Seems to run fine as high as 1.55v.


----------



## AARc51

In desperation I'm duping my post here:

So I'm new to OCing and apparently I'm terrible at it. I've been playing around with this trying to get to 3.0 - 3.2Ghz and I'm failing horribly. I've gotten it to get past the AI splash & POST but fails loading Windows. Anyone else gotten this combo rolling at 3.2Ghz?

Here's my hardware.

ASUS P5N32-E SLI - BIOS 1302
Intel Pentium E2160 Allendale 1.8GHz
OCZ GameXStream OCZ600GXSSLI ATX12V 600W Power Supply
Patriot Extreme Performance 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 PDC22G6400LLK
BFG 8800 GT OC

Settings:

Multiplier = 9
Unlinked
FSB = 1333
Mem freq = tried 666 - 800
Mem timing = 5-5-5-18 1T(tried 4-4-4-12 and 5-5-5-15/16 also)
Mem voltage = 2.2
NB Core Voltage = 1.40 (I couldn't get to AI splash before changing this from auto)
VCore = 1.475 (tried everyting from 1.4 - 1.525) - this actually shows as 1.632 in CPU-Z
CPU VTT = 1.55

I've gotten to 1100 FSB stable but I'm idling at 51C - not sure if that's normal or not.


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
WuNgUn: Where did you get that sidebar app? That looks a lot cooler than Everest's default sidebar. BTW, v169.25 is the latest ForeceWare beta. It came out on the 13th.

Ajimboalogo: Thanks for the pics. Looking good (REP+). Why on earth does your Zalman say "optimized for Nvidia nForce"??? What does a CPU cooler have to do with the chipset? LOL! I love Zalman, but that's ridiculous. Since you have the NB Tt, are you going to use the stock NB HS for your SB? That's what I did. I lapped it and threw on some AS5. Seems to run fine as high as 1.55v.


I have a 120mm fan blowing cold air on the stock SB HS, and it never even gets warm to the touch...so I should be okay with that. As for the Zalman...shrugs....that's how it came LMAO, even the box has the standard black and green nVidia colours!!!

Ran 3DMark05 and it screams at 16850...ran 3DMark06 and actually gone down 300 points to 9450...anyone have any ideas on that?? Vista Ultimate with 163 drivers for SLI.


----------



## nicoloco

Hi, Guys! I was just wondering. Now that I am taking my build to a higher level. I am about to switch out my 8800GTX stock cooler with a HR-03, going to try and fit a 120 mm on that one, hope that is OK. Back to the topic: I was wondering if I could change my chipset-heatsinks, as they are the only thing (excl. RAM) that I haven't thought about cooling additionally. You guys think I cuold cool my NB and SB with either of these options?

http://www.komplett.no/k/ki.aspx?sku=328739
http://www.komplett.no/k/ki.aspx?sku=334036
http://www.komplett.no/k/ki.aspx?sku=323817

Will I need to cool my SB, though?


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EAT* 
Looks good and the temps are great. This should leave you with lots of headroom to push your oc if your nb is staying that cool. Mine was in the high 50's at idle originally.

I think my temperatures are ok lol. Not 100% sure which one's which.
Here's a screenshot of my temperatures and voltages for ya.


Think I should push the CPU a bit more?


----------



## EAT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower* 
I think my temperatures are ok lol. Not 100% sure which one's which.
Here's a screenshot of my temperatures and voltages for ya.


Think I should push the CPU a bit more?

Was this taken at load? If not try one at load, so we can see what you're top is. Try taking the snapshot at 20min into p95 or something like that. Make sure to take the pic with the stress test still going.

If this was at load, you have lots of room to play with.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicoloco*


Hi, Guys! I was just wondering. Now that I am taking my build to a higher level. I am about to switch out my 8800GTX stock cooler with a HR-03, going to try and fit a 120 mm on that one, hope that is OK. Back to the topic: I was wondering if I could change my chipset-heatsinks, as they are the only thing (excl. RAM) that I haven't thought about cooling additionally. You guys think I cuold cool my NB and SB with either of these options?

http://www.komplett.no/k/ki.aspx?sku=328739
http://www.komplett.no/k/ki.aspx?sku=334036
http://www.komplett.no/k/ki.aspx?sku=323817

Will I need to cool my SB, though?


Many here have used the TT ES II here with good results. It can also be used on the sb if you have room. Removing the stock cooling solution will require you to replace the sb heatsink, it might as well be active.


----------



## Tommancs

Hi,

this is my very first post on this forum. Actually, the site is great, but I need your help too.

I have some serious problems with OCing this mobo. I bought a new Q6600 G0 and a pair of 1GB Corsair Dominator PC8500 1066Mhz DDR2 memory. I've also changed my PSU (which is now a Zalman 850W) and my cpus cooler to a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme with a 12cm fan. I thought everything will be fine... OMG how naive I was....

So, I installed everything just fine and powered it up. The first weird stuf was the "SLI-memory" stuff which set the right memory clock, voltage and timings, but also modified the NB core voltage to 1.52v. Strange, but I didn't care. The CPU cooler did its job very well indeed, so I decide to OC it after all.

As I increased the FSB, the CPU only increased 2-3 degrees and I was very pleased. I left the memory speed at stock 1066Mhz in order to find out the limits of the CPU. While I was OCing, I realized how hot the NB, the SB, the MOSFET heatsinks and the heatpipes were! I could hardly even touch them.

And here comes some of the weiredest stuff I've ever seen. While doing the 4 Prime95 stress tests on the 4 cores and opening some program with huge memory usage, I was alarmed by Probe that one of the volatges is 4.08v. In half a minute the NB, the SB, the Vcore, the memory and almost everything went to 4.08v. Of course its only the sensor which got mad, since after clearing the CMOS they appeard normal again...

So I'm almost sure the problem is with the overheating NB and maybe SB. I decided to install aftermarket coolers, but that's the biggest issue. I don't know if I could use any kinf of good and ACTIVE cooling solution on the NB, since there's little free space left by th TR U120EX. Can you suggest one that can be fit?

I thought about Zalman HR-05 IFX first, but I think it's quite impossible to install it with fan. Maybe the SLI version, If I install it by roatating 90 degrees, but then I think the memory would be too near to attach the fan. Can anybody confirm this?

Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II could just be fine, but I can't mesure if it really is. Can anybody confirm using BOTH Extreme Spirit II AND Ultra 120 Extreme on THIS board flawlessly? Or what do you use then?

Thanks for reading and sorry for being so legthy.









Thanks in advance for your help,
Tom

P.S.:
My config: ASUS P5N32-E SLI, Q6600, 2x1GB PC8500 DOMINATOR, Zalman 850W, Thermalright U120EX with 12cm 1600prm fan, one front and one rear 12cm fan, 7900GTX.


----------



## Litlratt

That combination will work.
Disable SLI memory.
Do everything manually and run unlinked.


----------



## Tommancs

So Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II will be fine?
Shall I set even the volatges manually for everything?

Anyway, the 4.08v stuff is caused by the overheating NB for sure?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tommancs*


So Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II will be fine?
Shall I set even the volatges manually for everything?

Anyway, the 4.08v stuff is caused by the overheating NB for sure?


Yes, it will be fine.
Yes, set voltages manually. Read page 1 of this thread.
No, but it can be reset by turning power off, remove psu cable and then plug it back in.
Fill in system specs here
http://www.overclock.net/specs.php


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tommancs*


I bought a new Q6600 G0 and a pair of 1GB Corsair Dominator PC8500 1066Mhz DDR2 memory.


If you intend to overclock, be sure to download the *1203 BIOS* and use the built in EZflash feature of your motherboard to flash the BIOS.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tommancs*


While I was OCing, I realized how hot the NB, the SB, the MOSFET heatsinks and the heatpipes were! I could hardly even touch them.


That's why its recommended that you replace the stock cooling with good quality after market coolers. The Extreme Spirit II's are good for this, but bear in mind that you'll need some RAM sinks for the bare MOSFET's too.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tommancs*


While doing the 4 Prime95 stress tests on the 4 cores and opening some program with huge memory usage, I was alarmed by Probe that one of the volatges is 4.08v.


By "Probe" I assume you mean Asus Probe. I can assure you that Asus Probe has the habit of reporting incorrect voltages from time to time which seems to be the case here.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tommancs*


So I'm almost sure the problem is with the overheating NB and maybe SB. I decided to install aftermarket coolers, but that's the biggest issue. I don't know if I could use any kinf of good and ACTIVE cooling solution on the NB, since there's little free space left by th TR U120EX. Can you suggest one that can be fit?


Themaltake Extreme Spirit II's, Thermalright HR-05, or Noctua NC-U6.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tommancs*


Can anybody confirm using BOTH Extreme Spirit II AND Ultra 120 Extreme on THIS board flawlessly? Or what do you use then?


Yes they will. I use the Noctua NC-U6 on my Northbridge and it still gives clearance o my Tuniq Tower. I'll be adding a ThermalRight HR-05 SLi to my Southbridge soon though, due to the size of my audio card.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tommancs*


So Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II will be fine?


Yes.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tommancs*


Shall I set even the volatges manually for everything?


I prefer to manually set tthe CPU, RAM, Northbridge, Southbridge, 1.2 HT, and VTT voltages manually in an effort to stop them from flucuateing as they have the potential to do when left on AUTO.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tommancs*


Anyway, the 4.08v stuff is caused by the overheating NB for sure?


No, Probe simply isn't reading the voltage correctly. If they were running at 4.08v your board would be dead.


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EAT* 
Was this taken at load? If not try one at load, so we can see what you're top is. Try taking the snapshot at 20min into p95 or something like that. Make sure to take the pic with the stress test still going.

If this was at load, you have lots of room to play with.

That's was at idle, about 20 minutes after a few hours in multiplayer Crysis.

P95 after 20 minutes will show similar temperatures in the GPU's etc but the NB will rise to about 45 and the CPU to no more than 62-64.


----------



## Tommancs

I really appreaciate your help, guys. Thanks!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
If you intend to overclock, be sure to download the *1203 BIOS* and use the built in EZflash feature of your motherboard to flash the BIOS.

I forgot to give you my BIOS version. I'm using 1205 now, shall I downgrade then or 1205 is OK too?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
No, Probe simply isn't reading the voltage correctly. If they were running at 4.08v your board would be dead.

It's obviously not 4.08v, I know that. I was just thinking that the NB overheating causes this false reading, because when it happens the affected sensors disappear in BIOS till I reset CMOS... After that everything becomes normal till I try overclocking, hence getting more heat on NB. So?


----------



## Litlratt

1203 is best BIOS unless you have a Razor device.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tommancs* 
I'm using 1205 now, shall I downgrade then or 1205 is OK too?

I "downgraded" to 1203, and I suggest you do the same, unless you're happy with not being able to get past 2.8Ghz on a Q6600. When it comes to flashing with EZflash, you should be able to unzip the ROM file to your desktop so that EZflash can see it. To use EZflash, simply go into your motherboard's BIOS and look under the "Tools" option.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tommancs* 
It's obviously not 4.08v, I know that. I was just thinking that the NB overheating causes this false reading, because when it happens the affected sensors disappear in BIOS till I reset CMOS... After that everything becomes normal till I try overclocking, hence getting more heat on NB. So?

Like I said, Asus Probe can be sporadic in its readings. If you want more accurate temperatures use something like SpeedFan, or better yet, the free version of Lavalys Everest.


----------



## Tommancs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
Like I said, Asus Probe can be sporadic in its readings. If you want more accurate temperatures use something like SpeedFan, or better yet, the free version of Lavalys Everest.

OK, I see your point, but I think it's not just Probe's fault. The voltage sensors which were read 4.08v by Probe had DISAPPEARD from BIOS. So there was no such line as Vcore or memory, etc. Of course I managed to get them back by clearing the CMOS. Weird, huh?


----------



## Tommancs

OK, I did (up?







)date the BIOS to 1203. No problem with that, but I can't use the arrow keys in the setup, just the numpad arrows... Strange, but who cares.









So, I decided to get two Thermalright MOSFET passive heatsinks, and the two Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II on both the NB and the SB. What do you think?

I dropped the idea of Thermalright heatsink for the NB, because the fan wouldn't fit. And ThermalTake's active cooler must be more effective than the ThermalRight without a fan, right?


----------



## juanchipms

http://img110.imageshack.us/my.php?image=statsvr1.jpg

any help how to pass 3 ghz on this system. i read that i have to put an active cooling on the nb and sb but my cpu cooler is to big and i dont think the thermaltake will fit. i dont think the temperature is too high righ now that i hit 3.06 ghz but im not so sure. another thing is that my ram is not working how i expected windows experience score for ram right now is 5.7 and everything else is 5.9







. if someone can help i would really apreciated.


----------



## Tommancs

What cpu cooler do you have? I was told the Thermaltake will fit with my Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme, which is quite big. Or won't it? Please somebody confirm, I won't order one otherwise! :S

Regarding the memory: have you set the correct timings?


----------



## juanchipms

i have the Thermaltake V1 CL-P0401 110mm and for what i see inside i dont think the thermaltake for the nb and sb will fit in there.

About the memory yes i set the right timings. what windows experience score do you get in your memory? i think we have the same memory


----------



## Tommancs

Yes, we have the same memory, but I'm running it @ 800Mhz, because my Northdrige gets hot as hell. (No ventillation from CPU against the mobo, small house)
With 800mhz, and loose timings I get 5,4. So your's not so bad.


----------



## juanchipms

what temperature is really hot mine is at 35


----------



## Tommancs

There's no such sensor on my board!


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tommancs*


What cpu cooler do you have? I was told the Thermaltake will fit with my Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme, which is quite big. Or won't it? Please somebody confirm, I won't order one otherwise! :S

Regarding the memory: have you set the correct timings?


Of course it does, thats what I use

The thermaltakes will even fit with two 8800gtx installed (pic 3)


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tommancs*


There's no such sensor on my board!


There are no temp sensors in the nb or sb


----------



## Tommancs

Sorry I haven't seen you replied.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tommancs*


Sorry I haven't seen you replied.










Its my thread









I actually posted those pics back about 75 pages. Bloody thing got a bit large.


----------



## Tommancs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


There are no temp sensors in the nb or sb


That's what I said.


----------



## Tommancs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Its my thread









I actually posted those pics back about 75 pages. Bloody thing got a bit large.


Yes a bit long, but great! And many helpful replies.







Now I'm relaxed. My NB will be cooled, and I'm going to OC like hell.


----------



## Tommancs

Robilar,

I still have some questions for you, if you don't mind.










1. What heatsink did you install on the MOSFET?
2. I saw your specs. and I'm a bit astonished that you used 14x multiplier, this way you haven't even raised the FSB, right? How come?
3. How warm is the NB/SB now?

Thanks,
Tom


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tommancs* 
Robilar,

I still have some questions for you, if you don't mind.









1. What heatsink did you install on the MOSFET?
2. I saw your specs. and I'm a bit astonished that you used 14x multiplier, this way you haven't even raised the FSB, right? How come?
3. How warm is the NB/SB now?

It's easy to just increase the multiplier to 14X and not the FSB, it will just cost you about a thousand dollars to do!!! LMAO.

Anyone here having problems with Everest not showing proper voltages for 3.3V and temps for just the MB and nothing else, I'm using the free version (when it first started indicated that it did not work well with the SB, which showed as a P55 something or another??)


----------



## Tommancs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo* 
It's easy to just increase the multiplier to 14X and not the FSB, it will just cost you about a thousand dollars to do!!!

Can't really follow you...


----------



## Robilar

He's talking about a chip like my X6800. It has an unlocked multiplier so I don't need to FSB increase if I choose not to, just up the multi.

The reason being that I can run my ram at 800mhz at 3-3-3-7 1T timings which is faster than 1066 mhz with 2T and loose timings.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tommancs* 
Robilar,

I still have some questions for you, if you don't mind.









1. What heatsink did you install on the MOSFET?
2. I saw your specs. and I'm a bit astonished that you used 14x multiplier, this way you haven't even raised the FSB, right? How come?
3. How warm is the NB/SB now?

Thanks,
Tom

I used the swiftech MC21 (two sets there is a link on page 1)

Also, with the thermaltake spirit II on the nb, I never exceeded 40 C the sb was about 35C

I used the multi only because I could. I had an E6700 before running at 9x400 FSB stable for about 3 months.


----------



## Tommancs

OK, I got it know... Too bad X6800 is not my category!








And thanks for answering the other two as well.

I hope everything will work for me too!


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tommancs* 
Can't really follow you...

Sorry Tommancs, I thought you knew about the X6800 (which is actually about 1,500 bucks...I want your job Robilar!!!) My supplier ran out of Tt Spirit II's but has a box full of CoolerMaster Blue Ice NB coolers...anyone know if these are any good...will fit on the SB?? What part of Hungary are you in Tommancs??...my dad immigrated to Canada in '56 (along with most of the other University students haha) he was from Papa.


----------



## Tommancs

I heard about X6800, but I can't afford it right now, so I haven't checked out its features.

I'm from the capital, Budapest. My grandpa and gradma on my father's line almost immigrated to the USA in 1956, but they changed their mind in the last minute. Kinda bad decision, 34 more years in communism, but at least I could born this way.















Papa is about 100km from here by the way.


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Tommancs said:


> I heard about X6800, but I can't afford it right now, so I haven't checked out its features.
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> I think I can afford the cpu, I just can't afford the wife finding out. LMAO.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo*


Sorry Tommancs, I thought you knew about the X6800 (which is actually about 1,500 bucks...I want your job Robilar!!!) My supplier ran out of Tt Spirit II's but has a box full of CoolerMaster Blue Ice NB coolers...anyone know if these are any good...will fit on the SB?? What part of Hungary are you in Tommancs??...my dad immigrated to Canada in '56 (along with most of the other University students haha) he was from Papa.


Infonec and Tigerdirect both have in store stock of the spirits (Guess it depends where you live) here in Toronto


----------



## Rochfordrambo

just a quick 1 i have 2 gig of corsair pc6400 c4 in my p5n32 at the mo and am running vista 32 . my question is would i benefit from another 2 gig as a friend is selling his cheap ?








thanks


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rochfordrambo*


just a quick 1 i have 2 gig of corsair pc6400 c4 in my p5n32 at the mo and am running vista 32 . my question is would i benefit from another 2 gig as a friend is selling his cheap ?








thanks


32-Bit operating systems are limited to 3Gig of RAM and you'll probably only have the use of about 2.8Gig or so. 64-Bit OS's can utilize up to 8Gig. Has something to do with 32-bit addressing and system requirements. Have also heard that this board runs excessively hot with all banks full (although have never tried this out). I would stick with 2Gig of RAM....past experience has shown that I can OC alot better (and more stable) with only 2 banks full running Dual Channel at 1T.


----------



## Tommancs

32 bit systems can only address up to 4GB of RAM as far as I know. Now if you have a video card with 512MB RAM, you can address 4GB-0.5GB=3.5GB system memory, because video memory is addressed first. So in your case, having 640MB or 1280MB (I don't know which versions you have in SLI) video ram, causes your system memory being reduced to 3456MB or 2816MB with the four 1GB module under Vista32.


----------



## Rochfordrambo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tommancs*


32 bit systems can only address up to 4GB of RAM as far as I know. Now if you have a video card with 512MB RAM, you can address 4GB-0.5GB=3.5GB system memory, because video memory is addressed first. So in your case, having 640MB or 1280MB (I don't know which versions you have in SLI) video ram, causes your system memory being reduced to 3456MB or 2815MB with the four 1GB module under Vista32.


 thanks for that it is what i suspected i have the 640 mb versions so indeed i am using 1280 which only leaves me 2720 so in short not worth having the 4 gig


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower*


That's was at idle, about 20 minutes after a few hours in multiplayer Crysis.

P95 after 20 minutes will show similar temperatures in the GPU's etc but the NB will rise to about 45 and the CPU to no more than 62-64.


Those temps are good too. If it was me, I would push for 3.3-3.5 If you don't have to pump your vcore too high. Nice work, keep us posted.


----------



## Tommancs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rochfordrambo*


thanks for that it is what i suspected i have the 640 mb versions so indeed i am using 1280 which only leaves me 2720 so in short not worth having the 4 gig










Why don't you update to Vista64?

I was deliberating over this lately, but I don't know whether I can use my 32-bit serial number with the 64-bit Vista install disc. I have the Business edition. Any experience regarding this?


----------



## juanchipms

Well i think this guide is great. I need some help. Attach is my mobo with the cooler Thermaltake V1 i havent seen that one in this post so i dont know if i made the right choice. Right now my system is running @ 3.06 ghz and the ram @ 800 mhz @ 4-4-4-12. Im trying to get a cooler for the nb and sb but im not sure if is gonna fit because of the cpu cooler. Just look at the pictures and give me your opinion.

I know everybody has the thermaltake extreme spirit but like i said before, im not sure it will fit.


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *juanchipms*


Im trying to get a cooler for the nb and sb but im not sure if is gonna fit because of the cpu cooler. Just look at the pictures and give me your opinion.

I know everybody has the thermaltake extreme spirit but like i said before, im not sure it will fit.


It will work if you can rotate the CPU cooler 90 degrees, but I'm not familiar with that particular mounting bracket. The way it's set up now it will not fit without modding the Tt cooler (bending the fin & fan assembly forward and down, but you risk crimping the pipes which would make it useless). Hope that CPU cooler rotates, but then again it's hard to judge the distance, maybe a sideshot would be better.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tommancs*


Why don't you update to Vista64?

I was deliberating over this lately, but I don't know whether I can use my 32-bit serial number with the 64-bit Vista install disc. I have the Business edition. Any experience regarding this?


It should work.


----------



## juanchipms

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo*


It will work if you can rotate the CPU cooler 90 degrees, but I'm not familiar with that particular mounting bracket. The way it's set up now it will not fit without modding the Tt cooler (bending the fin & fan assembly forward and down, but you risk crimping the pipes which would make it useless). Hope that CPU cooler rotates, but then again it's hard to judge the distance, maybe a sideshot would be better.


I think i can rotate it the thing is that the hot air will be blowing the video card or the psu. So i dont know i think im still gonna get the thermaltake extreme spirit and then see what im gonna do with the cpu cooler.


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EAT*


Those temps are good too. If it was me, I would push for 3.3-3.5 If you don't have to pump your vcore too high. Nice work, keep us posted.


Here's that Prime95 thing you asked me for. I passed the first set of FFT tests never exceeding 64 degrees, but when the 8k torture test started it shot up to this....



I got scared after a minute, so I stopped it.

Invest in a 3rd party CPU cooler? My motherboard and GPUs are well cooled, but the CPU doesnt look like it is. What do you think?


----------



## Tommancs

Yes, you should change the stock cooler to a more effective. It's loud anyway, isn't it?

What version of Prime95 do you use? I must have an older one, I have to open 4 windows for the 4 cores. So?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tommancs* 
Yes, you should change the stock cooler to a more effective. It's loud anyway, isn't it?

What version of Prime95 do you use? I must have an older one, I have to open 4 windows for the 4 cores. So?

Version 25.4


----------



## juanchipms

I dont know but my temp idle is 28. i ran p95 v25.5 for 23 min and the temp when up to 73. Isn't that too high? I have my cpu oc @ 3 ghz. The mobo temp stay about 33 or 34 degrees so i think that is good.


----------



## cdxsuprace

Im new to OC and I dont have time to read 300+ pages in this thread. I try to OC my Q6600 to 3.0ghz but everytime I raised the fsb to 1333 the pc wouldn't boot up. I followed all the setting on the front page. I was able to get it to 2.92ghz but not 3.0. I did that twice and it crashes when I hit 1333. Did I do anything wrong, please help? I have after market cooler so temp should be the problem. BTW, I have the 1302 bios with Crucial ballixtic Tracer rams and Antec NeoHe 550 psu. thanks.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cdxsuprace*


Im new to OC and I dont have time to read 300+ pages in this thread. I try to OC my Q6600 to 3.0ghz but everytime I raised the fsb to 1333 the pc wouldn't boot up. I followed all the setting on the front page. I was able to get it to 2.92ghz but not 3.0. I did that twice and it crashes when I hit 1333. Did I do anything wrong, please help? I have after market cooler so temp should be the problem. BTW, I have the 1302 bios with Crucial ballixtic Tracer rams and Antec NeoHe 550 psu. thanks.


Try 1203 BIOS if you do not have a Razor device.


----------



## cdxsuprace

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Try 1203 BIOS if you do not have a Razor device.


After the system wouldn't boot. I have to reset the bios. I did the jump swap to reset the Bios. For some reason, my system would turns on but nothing boot up. The pc is running but I dont think the ram is booting up b/c I didn't see anything on the monitor. I disconnected everything except for the rams and graphic card and I still didn't see anything on my monitor. No Bios...nothing. Anyone have this problem before...please help. Thanks.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cdxsuprace*


After the system wouldn't boot. I have to reset the bios. I did the jump swap to reset the Bios. For some reason, my system would turns on but nothing boot up. The pc is running but I dont think the ram is booting up b/c I didn't see anything on the monitor. I disconnected everything except for the rams and graphic card and I still didn't see anything on my monitor. No Bios...nothing. Anyone have this problem before...please help. Thanks.


Are you saying that you flashed to 1203 and it will not POST now?


----------



## cdxsuprace

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Are you saying that you flashed to 1203 and it will not POST now?


No I haven't flashed to 1203 yet. I was trying to reset the bios so the system could boot up stable before I update to 1203. When the system crash at 3.0ghz, I couldn't go to bios b/c it freezes before I can do anything. Thats why I have to do the jumper bios reset.


----------



## Tommancs

Try to unplug the cord from your PSU first and then reset bios again.

By the way if you OCed too much, and the system won't boot up, what you only have to do is to hold down the INSERT key while you start the computer. In this case only the OC changes will be cleared. So there's no reason using the jumper next time.


----------



## shizam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
@shizam

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...P5N32-E%20SLI/


You are the man!
Thanks
S


----------



## cdxsuprace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tommancs* 
Try to unplug the cord from your PSU first and then reset bios again.

By the way if you OCed too much, and the system won't boot up, what you only have to do is to hold down the INSERT key while you start the computer. In this case only the OC changes will be cleared. So there's no reason using the jumper next time.

I did that, I unplug all the power before i reset the bios. And it still wouldn't boot up.


----------



## juanchipms

Hey Tommancs dis you install the nb cooler already?


----------



## cdxsuprace

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tommancs* 
Try to unplug the cord from your PSU first and then reset bios again.

By the way if you OCed too much, and the system won't boot up, what you only have to do is to hold down the INSERT key while you start the computer. In this case only the OC changes will be cleared. So there's no reason using the jumper next time.

BTW, what is the INSERT key? Is it the power switch?


----------



## Mmmm~

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cdxsuprace* 
BTW, what is the INSERT key? Is it the power switch?

its the button on your keyboard that says Ins or Insert...


----------



## Tommancs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *juanchipms*


Hey Tommancs dis you install the nb cooler already?


No, I didn't. Actually, I ran out of money.







I'm waiting for my BGF 8800GT OC2 and I haven't payed for that yet... But I will get the coolers after Xmas.


----------



## Tommancs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mmmm~*


its the button on your keyboard that says Ins or Insert...


It's been there on every keyboard for like 25 years or so... LMAO


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tommancs* 
Try to unplug the cord from your PSU first and then reset bios again.

By the way if you OCed too much, and the system won't boot up, what you only have to do is to hold down the INSERT key while you start the computer. In this case only the OC changes will be cleared. So there's no reason using the jumper next time.

I've never heard of this.
+ reppage if it's confirmed that it works.


----------



## ReignsOfPower

The insert trick used to work on my old computer. 100% certain ( I used it quite a few times) On this one it didnt work when my computer locked, but I think that was because it was a BIOS problem.

Anyways

I bought a new cooler for my CPU. A bit annoying to install at this late stage but I got it in thankfully








Thermalake Big Thyphoon VX (got it running at 2000rpm - still quiet IMO)
Did a 20+ minute torture test, compared to stock cooling i got on average 16 - 20 degrees cooler!!! Best 70 AUS bucks I've ever spent for my PC








Here is a picture.


Time to push CPU more?


----------



## EAT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower* 
The insert trick used to work on my old computer. 100% certain ( I used it quite a few times) On this one it didnt work when my computer locked, but I think that was because it was a BIOS problem.

Anyways

I bought a new cooler for my CPU. A bit annoying to install at this late stage but I got it in thankfully








Thermalake Big Thyphoon VX (got it running at 2000rpm - still quiet IMO)
Did a 20+ minute torture test, compared to stock cooling i got on average 16 - 20 degrees cooler!!! Best 70 AUS bucks I've ever spent for my PC








Here is a picture.


Time to push CPU more?

You must have one of the good ones I hear of. Lot of room to play.


----------



## thatbiggbadwolfy

Guys, I think I have a defective motherboard. No matter how high I set the VCore in the BIOS (using 1203) either at 1.275 or 1.352 or 1.4 or 1.55--CPUZ always reports VID as 1.163v and Everest saying, 1.275. Are you guys getting this too? This explains all the BSODing I've been getting. I get a BSOD every hour, with countless voltage tweaks. Please help me out!

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1254031

Why did I buy this open-box on newegg... argh


----------



## mica3speedy

did you disable the following:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Execute Disable Bit: Disable it

Virtualization Technology: Disable it

Enhanced Intel Speedstep: Disable it

Enhanced C1 (C1E): Disable it

Legacy USB Support: Disable it

HPET: Disable it


because it looks like speedstep and enhanced c1 may be enabled.


----------



## kem-

Do Quads(Q6600) suck for overclocking with a P5N32-E SLI ?


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kem-* 
Do Quads(Q6600) suck for overclocking with a P5N32-E SLI ?

Well....considering the post your in i'm surprised your asking this question lol

Of course they do....on this mobo anyhow.


----------



## DADBBAD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kem-* 
Do Quads(Q6600) suck for overclocking with a P5N32-E SLI ?

So far the best I've been able to do is 2.87. Still trying


----------



## TomasFX

HI floks

I have big problem
after few hours running my machine hangs and freezes
even when I set default bios options ( stock speed and voltage )

I open few tabs in Firefox, and during scorol picture freeze ..than I start clicking with mouse ..than monitors shut down few sec and than they turn on again..and I continue to work few mins and than again freeze

I thought my PSU was not good enough, and than I buy new one ..but guess what ...still the same

memtest say memory is OK

did I burn board ? ...or maybe CPU...

please help!!!


----------



## juanchipms

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kem-* 
Do Quads(Q6600) suck for overclocking with a P5N32-E SLI ?

I have been able to get to 3.2 ghz fsb 1422 at 1.37 v core, 1.4 nb,1.55 sb, bios 1203. idle at 36 degrees and load a dont know because is still testing. i raise because yesterday i got it stable at 3 ghz 1.3 vcore and ran prime95 for 9 hours and the temp was 40 degrees


----------



## juanchipms

After running prime for 50 minutes a got an error on one core what should i do raise the vcore? any sugestions?


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kem-* 
Do Quads(Q6600) suck for overclocking with a P5N32-E SLI ?

Yes, Quad overclocking sucks so very very much on this board.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *juanchipms* 
After running prime for 50 minutes a got an error on one core what should i do raise the vcore? any sugestions?

Give us your settings in bios,to see if you goin in the rigth dirrection.But 50 minutes in prime look like need raise the vcore a tap.


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Ok seeing as my temperatures are running really well on this new Cooler (I had to re-adjust it today to get the best contact I could). Im not going more than 32 degrees on idle and no more than 56-58 on full load.

Seeing as on stock cooling I was running temps of up to 74+ degrees, I think its safe to assume I can go that little bit more with my system.

Do you think 3.4GHz is possible on air? I'm a bit scared of overclocking a whole 1000MHz over stock, on air. Perhaps 3.2GHz is a more intelligent option? My CPU VTT at 3.0GHZ is 1.3V and have had no BSODS or Vdrops etc. I'm thinking 3.2GHz @ 1.35V-ish should be enough and at 3.4GHz 1.4Volts will do the job.

Anyone else with a Q6600 on air here running at 3.0+ Ghz have some voltage readings for me? Wouldn't mind seeing a small trend to follow.


----------



## trueg50

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ReignsOfPower* 
Ok seeing as my temperatures are running really well on this new Cooler (I had to re-adjust it today to get the best contact I could). Im not going more than 32 degrees on idle and no more than 56-58 on full load.

Seeing as on stock cooling I was running temps of up to 74+ degrees, I think its safe to assume I can go that little bit more with my system.

Do you think 3.4GHz is possible on air? I'm a bit scared of overclocking a whole 1000MHz over stock, on air. Perhaps 3.2GHz is a more intelligent option? My CPU VTT at 3.0GHZ is 1.3V and have had no BSODS or Vdrops etc. I'm thinking 3.2GHz @ 1.35V-ish should be enough and at 3.4GHz 1.4Volts will do the job.

Anyone else with a Q6600 on air here running at 3.0+ Ghz have some voltage readings for me? Wouldn't mind seeing a small trend to follow.

1.4 actual volts is what I have seen. With Vdrop, maybe set it to 1.45 (if you have a vdrop like mine of .05

My roommate is at 3.4, and it stays under 60 load with a G0.


----------



## orbiter

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
The pipes are a piece of cake to remove

Just a few questions please guys.... I would really like to swap my NB and SB coolers from the stock ones as they do get very hot (P5N32-E SLI) I would just like to know a few things first..

1. Once the 2 heat pipes and 4 heatsinks are removed is it necessary to cut the original heat pipes and replace the capacitor heatsinks?

Also I would like buy 2 of the Noctua NC-U6 for NB and SB. pictured here.. http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Produ...Thumbnails=yes

2. Is it ok to use the Noctua NC-U6 for both NB AND SB and would they fit without any trouble?

3. Would you choose a different type of cooler for my board from the above page and if so why please?

Many thanks in advance for any advise

Orb


----------



## USlatin

don't get a noctua for the SB... it will ruin your possibilities and freedom to use popular cards in all available slots... go with the Noctua for the NB and something low profile like an Evercool for the SB


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Decided I'd go for 3.2 GHz on the Q6600. All went well the first shot, put the CPU VTT to 1.4Volts and then put the FSB to 1422.

Restarted, opened windows fine. Ran Prime95 for 30 minutes no problem at all. Then ran 3D Mark 06, halfway through the benchmark i bluescreened. Though ok i'll put the volate to 1.45, blue screened again in windows. Then put CPU VTT back down to 1.4 Volts and put NB Voltage up to 1.4Volts, again, blue screen.
So finally, put CPU VTT to 1.4 and NB to Auto again like it was originally, blue screened. Weird :S

So now I'm back to 3.0GHz which I know is basically 100% stable.
Any ideas why this is happening / any tips for a 3.2GHz overlock (up from 3.0Ghz 1.3V CPU VTT and the rest auto) ?

Here is a 30 minute test where everything ran fine, which, soon after in a 3D MArk Benchmark I BSOD-ed:

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/9...minutesoz0.png


----------



## Tommancs

Hi,

I just would like to announce that I got my BFG 8800GT OC2 tonight and it's damn goooooood!







11605 3dmarks in 3dmark06

Anyway, I'm going to get the chipset coolers soon. Do you think I might risk OCing even before that?


----------



## resj

has anyone recently had any problems to note lately if you bought your board recently from newegg? this looks like the board to get for 680i since evga is being, well i'll leave that part out... i'm thinking on getting this for my 6850 and hope to possibly get it up to 4ghz. what do you guys think can this board do it? i know egg reviews need to be taken with a couple grains of salt, but i'm sort of hesitant.


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tommancs*


Hi,

I just would like to announce that I got my BFG 8800GT OC2 tonight and it's damn goooooood!







11605 3dmarks in 3dmark06

Anyway, I'm going to get the chipset coolers soon. Do you think I might risk OCing even before that?


Hmm something seems off... Whats the overclock on your quads? That score seems a little low as I am getting right around 16,000 with a superclocked 8800gt on a 3.25ghz quad setup. You should be hitting 14000 as a low score.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *resj*


has anyone recently had any problems to note lately if you bought your board recently from newegg? this looks like the board to get for 680i since evga is being, well i'll leave that part out... i'm thinking on getting this for my 6850 and hope to possibly get it up to 4ghz. what do you guys think can this board do it? i know egg reviews need to be taken with a couple grains of salt, but i'm sort of hesitant.


Wow. Our systems are very similar! A friend just got a P5N32-E from NewEgg and had no problems. I am hesitant to believe a lot of user reviews about mobos because you've got to figure there are a lot of idiots out there who don't know how to build a system and think they have a bricked board (or three) when it's just that they are dumb. At least The Egg has an excellent return policy! As you can see in my sig, I took a E6750 to 3.82 without a problem, so I think you can make 4GHz easy. A couple others in this thread (notably Litlratt) have done so on the 6850 too. BTW, can you share some photos of your two HR-03+ in SLI?

EAT: Do you really get 16K on 3dm06 with one GPU? Can you share your ORB? I can't even approach 15K with 648/2052 on my current OC.


----------



## EAT

Sorry ORB. Is that the short for bios settings?


----------



## t4ct1c47

To set up a free ORB account simply visit *Futuremark's homepage*, and select the ORB tab. From there you can register a new ORB account.


----------



## orbiter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


don't get a noctua for the SB... it will ruin your possibilities and freedom to use popular cards in all available slots... go with the Noctua for the NB and something low profile like an Evercool for the SB


Ok Thanks









Perhaps two of these would be better as they can be offset, I would like to use coolers that are the same you see?

http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Produ...oductID=679611

Also what about the other end of the stock coolers (I think they cover some capacitors) can those heatsinks be left on after cutting the pipes?

Many thanks in advance for any advise

Orb


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EAT*


Sorry ORB. Is that the short for bios settings?


If you click on the 3dm score in my sig, it takes you to a certified 3dm site. After you get your score, you have the option to create an account and save up to 5 scores, which are called ORBs. Then, you can "publish" one of them, meaning generate a link to it like the one in my sig. This is how you prove your score is real.

I'm not saying I doubt you at all, I just want to see how your score breaks-down and how you got over 16K! That's an AWESOME score for one GPU, and I'd love to try & get there myself.


----------



## Tommancs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EAT*


Hmm something seems off... Whats the overclock on your quads? That score seems a little low as I am getting right around 16,000 with a superclocked 8800gt on a 3.25ghz quad setup. You should be hitting 14000 as a low score.


Everything on stock, of course. At the moment...


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *orbiter* 
Ok Thanks









Perhaps two of these would be better as they can be offset, I would like to use coolers that are the same you see?

http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Produ...oductID=679611

Also what about the other end of the stock coolers (I think they cover some capacitors) can those heatsinks be left on after cutting the pipes?

Many thanks in advance for any advise

Orb

Yes, they can be left on. Probably a better solution than most.
Air movement within the case is recommended.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tommancs* 
Everything on stock, of course. At the moment...

Your score seems fine to me for stock. you can always try comparing your scores to those submitted by other OCN members on the **OFFICIAL* Top 30 Computers (Graphics Benchmarking)* thread.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
If you click on the 3dm score in my sig, it takes you to a certified 3dm site. After you get your score, you have the option to create an account and save up to 5 scores, which are called ORBs. Then, you can "publish" one of them, meaning generate a link to it like the one in my sig. This is how you prove your score is real.

I'm not saying I doubt you at all, I just want to see how your score breaks-down and how you got over 16K! That's an AWESOME score for one GPU, and I'd love to try & get there myself.

Quite the improvement from here
http://www.overclock.net/2826776-post1483.html


----------



## orbiter

Thanks Litlratt & Uslatin









Rep+'s


----------



## juanchipms

This is what i can get so far making a los of tests. But im still working to get the best i can get from this cpu. The prime95 was running for 6 hours. Do you think i can push i litle more with this temps. my settings on the bios are vcore 1.35 , nb 1.4 , sb 1.55, vtt 1.55. Any advice will be fully apriciated. Im still waiting for 2 thermaltake spirit for the chipsets to install them. Is this active coolings on the chipset going to help get more stable at higher fsb?


----------



## EAT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


If you click on the 3dm score in my sig, it takes you to a certified 3dm site. After you get your score, you have the option to create an account and save up to 5 scores, which are called ORBs. Then, you can "publish" one of them, meaning generate a link to it like the one in my sig. This is how you prove your score is real.

I'm not saying I doubt you at all, I just want to see how your score breaks-down and how you got over 16K! That's an AWESOME score for one GPU, and I'd love to try & get there myself.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Yes, they can be left on. Probably a better solution than most.
Air movement within the case is recommended.



Wish I would have known about ORB back at the beginning of november when I learned how to use Rivatuner. Will be a pain as I just built an interesting pc for my GF using my GTX. Thats why I bought the GT. Check out this weird board Biostar P4m900-m4. I would link to the egg, but they didn't have anymore as of yesterday. Board supports ol' socket 478 p4's up to 800mhz with ddr2 and a 16x pci-e slot. Even has some Oc'ing ability. Sux its such a cheapo and only comes in MATX. Anyways I feel like I've been challenged, I'll see if I can't sneak the GTX back into the house (It is a xmas gift after all, doubt she can complain the card is used as she's getting a 1200 dollar gift this year). And run 3dm06 on both of the cards. Now that I think about it I probably never ran futuremark on the 8800gt, but i believe my best was 15900 ish on the gtx, although I'm pretty sure It was over 16000 a few times but showed artifacts in the dragon test. I will ORB it tonight when I get home from work.

It says you can only publish one score, does that mean I can't have both my gt and gtx posted at the same time?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

The time has come earlier than I suspected, but I will be retiring my P5N32-E for an ASUS Maximus motherboard next week.

I thought for sure I was going to hang on to this awesome board longer than most of you, but here's what happened:

I had almost enough spare parts to build a new rig including a Gigabyte GA-965P. I was just missing a case and an HDD. My father-in-law decided to buy these things and an E6750 to have me build him a system. I am such an IDIOT, I didn't realize the GA-965P was so cheap it didn't support 1333 without a BIOS flash (only takes FDD). So, I installed the FDD on my system, downloaded the BIOS flash only to learn it doesn't support E6x50!!! So, the GA-965P gets sihtcanned, my father-in-law gets my wife's P5N-E, she gets my P5N32-E, and I get an ASUS Maximus.

What a nightmare. I'm so disappointed in myself. Time to hit the scotch.

But what good people you all are to be so helpful and kind. USlatin, Litlratt, & of course Robilar, especially. I'll be sure to stop by from time-to-time to say hi.

Action shot before I realized my folly:


----------



## Litlratt

We'll miss ya Dosto.
I'm jumping ship also as I've realized I probably can't live without a QX9650. Utilizing EVGA's upgrade program, I'm hoping for a 780i series board in January.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I hope it works out for you, Litlratt! Maybe Santa will bring you a 780i.

Irony: Santa was going to bring me either a PS3 or a Maximus. Santa (my wife) decided on a PS3 (based on the present size under the tree). The irony is that I get both. I feel like a turd... but somehow I convinced her that it's better for all of us (better board for me = better board for parents).

I'm an overclockaholic if I need to convince my wife that a better motherboard = better quality-of-life (sigh). Next stop Nvidia 9x00... only one card, though, obviously (X38). No heartbreaks here. I'm totally disgusted with Nvidia boards. Why can't Intel buy them already???


----------



## USlatin

Those do work, but it gets a bit tricky for the SB and I can't remember 100% if they work with the longest sound cards... Ask Cogno, she's got one on her SB...
No need for a fan on the one you'll be putting on the SB... but for the NB get something that will fit just right with the most air flow you can find... a few thin 60mm fans can be found at Jab-Tech.com... but the CMF's on them are pure lies... I'd get a few at the same time and test them... only way to know which moves more air.


----------



## EAT

Ok so I'm going to EAT my crow now and then dip out. I smoke some pretty good stuff, but I'm still going to blame this on stupidty. I just checked my system, where you enter the 3dm06 score. I usually enter something in there while I am overclocking/benching. Unfortunately I am off my rocker by 1000 marks. Looks like I was hitting 15000 as a top end on one gpu. I suck, I'm sorry for being stupid. (I'm still in that confused, I was sure it was 16000 stage of denial).

I shouldn't be throwing my 2cents out there when I can't get my facts straight so I apologize to everyone who reads my posts. I thank everyone for their help and input. Thank you OCN for an informative, helpful, and fun forum. Thanks Robilar for almost 400 pages of goodness. If any of you gents would like validation on the fact that I do have a pretty sweet rig, and a decent OC I would be happy to take the time to prove it as I feel like a big enough schmuck. And if i was in someone else shoes, I'd be like I bet he doesn't even have that crap in his machine. Otherwise thanks again and happy clocking.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

EAT: I was NEVER trying to do that. One of the best things about this thread is that people are here to help each other. Your response to the OP about their 3dm score was appropriate (although, it turned out they hadn't OC'ed yet), so you're on-the-mark, and you're trying to help out.

This is one of the best threads I've ever read. The other mobo stickied thread (P5N-E) is confusing and you need to literally wade through hundreds of pages to get the information you need (my other mobo is a P5N-E). Thank [insert deity] that Robilar actually still edits the first page!

I know I've appreciated your input so far, and being off-the-mark is no reason to insert-foot-in-mouth. Everyone does it once-in-a-while. I was just really excited because we have similar systems & I wanted to see how fast we could get. So, take it easy & know that even 15k is an awesome score on a single GPU!


----------



## Litlratt

Lighten up EAT. No need to sacrifice your first-born or anything. A "I stand(sit) corrected" or "I was wrong" would have sufficed. I doubt that anyone thinks any less of you.

@Dosto
I'm looking forward to the 9000 series cards also. Having the Tim Taylor syndrome regarding computers does get expensive doesn't it?


----------



## juanchipms

I have a quesion i oc my system to 3.2 and ran prime95 for 6 hours no errors. Now im getting crashes on the internet explorer and sometimes on the messenger. Does that mean that my oc in unstable or is something to do with the Windows Vista X64??? If anyone has the sollution please share it with me please!!


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Here we go guys. Found out why I was getting a few blue screens every now and again. I think my RAM is kinda ****ty, so I loosened the timings.

Here we go, all nice and stable now.


Managed a 16800 3D Mark Score when I overclocked my GPU's with RivaTuner. On stock settings (which is where I will leave them) I managed 16297:


Next mod, downgrade to Windows XP SP3 when it's released lol


----------



## Robilar

Nice score reign. I come in just shy of 16k myself. That quad gives you the extra oomph for sure.


----------



## mica3speedy

I know Asus isn't supporting the new quad peryns, and just the dual core peryns for this board. But has anybody tried a new quad peryn on this board yet? If so, any luck oc'ing with it?


----------



## designbydave

well I just don't get it

My E6750 runs 100% rock solid at 375 fsb and vcore around 1.33, anything higher is a no go. At 400 mhz fsb even with vcore way up at 1.5 I still cannot get stability. I thought maybe it was a fsb hole or something, but I cannot get anything over 400 mhz to boot windows.

Pretty frustrating considering the 6750 is suppose to be a good overclocker. Seems most people have gotten them past 3.4 on air cooling...

I think I must have something else messing me up. I have good cpu cooling a good power supply and good memory. What am I missing?

One thing I haven't really experimented with was increasing the northbridge or southbridge voltage. Does this board need more voltage to either of these to get past 400 mhz fsb? I don't want to increase them because I still just have the stock cooling, but if it takes better cooling I will invest. Right now I am running the values recommended int he first post.

thanks guys


----------



## colt1911

I was going to upgrade my system to a Q9450, but now since I'll have to buy a new board as well I'm thinking of just keeping my board and get a Q6600 go cpu and 2 8800gt cards. Does the Q6600 overclock well on this board? I'm mainly looking at say 3.2 on air if possible.What are your opinions and would this be a good move for now and upgrade later when the new socket comes out in a year or so.


----------



## mica3speedy

with good air cooling, you should be able to hit 3.2ghz with the q6600 go. Honestly though, I would keep what you have now though, that looks like a good setup to keep if you were planning on upgrading in a year or so anyways.


----------



## Mhill2029

Personally upgrading to Penryn is really pointless if your a gamer....Pretty much all titles are highly GPU dependant anyway. Upgrading to the next flagship cards (9 series) is the only worthy upgrade imo. As for the OP rig....it's solid. You don't even need a Quad as i for one have seen no benefits of using one in games as yet over an E6600.

Seriously, the Quad thing is really overated imo. Penryn is too unless all you care about is benchmarks. And lets be honest, how many of you purchase a CPU based primarily on benchmark results? Too many....Gaming performance matters for me more than anything.


----------



## SLIMaxPower

Just put together a p5n32-e sli (bios 1203 - not the beta) + e4500 with 2Gb ocz 6400 ram

I am using w/c from my last system (fx-60) and 2 8800gts. Still using passive cooling on the NB & SB.

I am not able to overclock at all (wont post). I have read page 1 and another 50 of the thread which I find very informative.
Disabled all things as mentioned.

It seems the multi is unlocked on this cpu standard of 11 and fsb 800 giving a 2.2Ghz clock. I have raised the fsb to anywhere between 1000-1600 (lowering the multi at the higher fsb.
Volts I have set as mentioned as well.

Current settings multi 11 fsb 1000 should = 2.75Ghz
vcore set to 1.3 to 1.5
mem 2.25
ht 1.3
nb 1.4
sb 1.5
vtt 1.55
ddr auto
ram unlinked, set at 800

cpu temp in bios idles at 29C

what have i missed.

ps. I have the thermaltake sli chipset cooler - it won't fit SB and will struggle to sit on NB.
Are the Asus optional coolers for the chipset spreaders any use ?


----------



## resj

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Wow. Our systems are very similar! A friend just got a P5N32-E from NewEgg and had no problems. I am hesitant to believe a lot of user reviews about mobos because you've got to figure there are a lot of idiots out there who don't know how to build a system and think they have a bricked board (or three) when it's just that they are dumb. At least The Egg has an excellent return policy! As you can see in my sig, I took a E6750 to 3.82 without a problem, so I think you can make 4GHz easy. A couple others in this thread (notably Litlratt) have done so on the 6850 too. BTW, can you share some photos of your two HR-03+ in SLI?


hey dost, you're right they are very similar!







. yeah, that sounds reassuring, and i know how most (-) egg reviewers are. cool, i'm getting my mobo today from ups. i'll make a thread and take some pictures just for you of the insides and 2x hr-03's


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SLIMaxPower*


Just put together a p5n32-e sli (bios 1203 - not the beta) + e4500 with 2Gb ocz 6400 ram

I am using w/c from my last system (fx-60) and 2 8800gts. Still using passive cooling on the NB & SB.

I am not able to overclock at all (wont post). I have read page 1 and another 50 of the thread which I find very informative.
Disabled all things as mentioned.

It seems the multi is unlocked on this cpu standard of 11 and fsb 800 giving a 2.2Ghz clock. I have raised the fsb to anywhere between 1000-1600 (lowering the multi at the higher fsb.
Volts I have set as mentioned as well.

Current settings multi 11 fsb 1000 should = 2.75Ghz
vcore set to 1.3 to 1.5
mem 2.25
ht 1.3
nb 1.4
sb 1.5
vtt 1.55
ddr auto
ram unlinked, set at 800

cpu temp in bios idles at 29C

what have i missed.

ps. I have the thermaltake sli chipset cooler - it won't fit SB and will struggle to sit on NB.
Are the Asus optional coolers for the chipset spreaders any use ?


Your ram is rated at 2.25?


----------



## juanchipms

merry christmas for everybody!!!!!


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Hey guys, I decided to drop back my CPU to 3.0GHz as I found that programs in general were alot more stable at that speed.

Either way, I am now running 3.0GHz @ 1.275 volts
Ram 4-4-4-12-2T @ 800MHz

Dropping back 200Mhz from 3.2Ghz only cut back the whole 3D Mark Score by about 800, big deal. I rather that for 100% stability.

So instead, I played around with my two XFX 8800GT. These are factory rated at 600 / 1500 / 1800 (Core/Shader/Memory respectively)

I went though this thread in our forums:
http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/2528...on-thread.html

Found out that the best 8800GT you can buy is the eVGA 8800GT SSC version. So what I did was I pulled out RivaTuner 2.06 and cranked up my system to the eVGA 8800GT SSC settings and raised the fan speed on both cards to 50% each for Performance 3D settings (which is barely audible). What I then did was run/play 3D Mark06, Crysis and TF2 for a number on hours whilst logging temperatures and kept a lookout for random artifacts etc.

All went well. So I then decided to do it properly. Neither GPU temp above 70.
I loaded up NiBiTor 3.6 after a reboot and loaded up the BIOS and saved the defult settings for the cards. I then set the exact same specifications i had set in RivaTuner into NiBiTor and saved it as a .rom BIOS file.

Loaded up a floppy windows bootdisk which I made by right clicking A:/ and selecting format. On that same floppy disk i placed the nVFlash 5.57 executables that come in the archive when you download it.
Rebooted, and loaded off the Floppy.

Typed
c:/nvflash -i0 -5 -6 8800oc.rom
That flashed the first card to my desired clocks/fan speeds
Typed
c:/nvflash -i1 -5 -6 8800oc.rom
That flashed my second card to my desired clocks/fan speeds
(8800oc.rom is the name of the BIOS file i made using NiBiTor and C:/ was the directory I had placed that file just for ease of use)

Loaded up windows.
Now defult clocks are exactly the same as the eVGA 8800GT SSC. No need for RivaTuner. 2D Performance and Low Power 3D clocks are exactly the same as the original specifications along with a 30% Fan Speed (600 / 1500 / 1800). When a 3D game loads up, all the clocks jump up automatically and Fan Speed raises to 50% (700/1750/2000).

Ran a 3-loop 3D Mark, popped out a 16000 3D Mark @ 3.0Ghz.
I think now that I am happy with my CPU/RAM/GPU's its time I found out how to best configure my RAID0 setup before I revert back to Windows XP (I can't stand Vista and its 500MB Ram use on Idle, disgusting)

EDIT - If you guys think its a good idea, I can make a How To guide on testing and flashing your GPU's BIOS (nVidia/ATi use almost identical methods). Should I?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hey, all! Happy Christmas!

I spent all day working on three systems yesterday. The P5N32-E will remain with us, but in my wife's computer instead. Here's what it looks like:

Me: Maximus Formula w/ QX6700 @ ?
Wife: P5N32-E w/ E6750 @ 3.6
In-Laws: P5N-E w/6750 @ 3.4

Yesterday, I pulled my board & put it in my wife's computer but I had severe fitting issues and had to put the 8800GTS in the bottom slot without problems (the stock HSF was obstructed by my jerry-rigged SB HS - I was using the stock NB HS for it). I pulled her P5N-E for the new build which is mostly spare parts (only the case and the E6750 are new). I OC'ed it only to 3.4; that will be sufficient for them.

Anyway, I'm happy to say the P5N32-E will remain in the house, put to good use doing what it does best: OC C2Ds! I will report back when the Maximus is installed over the weekend!


----------



## Litlratt

I'm on my way out too Dosto.
Ordered a QX9650 today. Waiting on the 780i upgrade email from EVGA.


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


I'm on my way out too Dosto.
Ordered a QX9650 today. Waiting on the 780i upgrade email from EVGA.



I had an opportunity to "play" with an XFX 780i board over the holidays and it would not clock my 9650 worth beans......

Latest bios, all that, really unimpressed so far.

For now, X38 gets me 4.5 stable no probs.

Best of luck ratt, but for now things look bleak for 780i with respect to QX9650. Take note that Asus isn't really pushing their P5N-t deluxe into the US market in a real hurry..

This might interest you..


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nuclearjock*


I had an opportunity to "play" with an XFX 780i board over the holidays and it would not clock my 9650 worth beans......

Latest bios, all that, really unimpressed so far.

For now, X38 gets me 4.5 stable no probs.

Best of luck ratt, but for now things look bleak for 780i with respect to QX9650. Take note that Asus isn't really pushing their P5N-t deluxe into the US market in a real hurry..

This might interest you..


Thx nuc, appreciate the info.
There were some encouraging posts at EVGAs site. But like most new mobos, more bad than good. I won't get my hopes up.
rep +


----------



## colt1911

Question for Litlratt, As you can see in my sig I have the P5N32-E board and have been looking at my upgrading options. I wanted to go with a 45nm quad but they will not work with my 680I. So my question for you is could I oc a Q6600 go to 3.2 on air cooling and be stable with my current board? Then I would only have tobuy 2 (8800Gt cards ) and the Q6600. I new to overclocking so thats why I'm asking the experts. Thanks for your time and help.


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mhill2029* 
Personally upgrading to Penryn is really pointless if your a gamer....Pretty much all titles are highly GPU dependant anyway. Upgrading to the next flagship cards (9 series) is the only worthy upgrade imo. As for the OP rig....it's solid. You don't even need a Quad as i for one have seen no benefits of using one in games as yet over an E6600.

Seriously, the Quad thing is really overated imo. Penryn is too unless all you care about is benchmarks. And lets be honest, how many of you purchase a CPU based primarily on benchmark results? Too many....Gaming performance matters for me more than anything.

You realize you're speaking from conjecture rather than direct experience (unless I'm mistaken).

First, show me an E6600 that does 4.5ghz prime stable under 60C with water cooling, and if you can produce that, then tell me you won't see that performance manifested in any game available today. I just came off a beautiful E6850 that would do 3.85 24/7 and that was a wonderful chip for gaming. The difference between 3.85 and 4.5 is very real in terms of fps as well as smoothness.

You're right about quads and gaming in general for now, but i spend alot of time with FSX which now after sp1 does in fact utilize all four cores. My 9650 makes a huge difference in this instance.

However, is it worth an additional ~$800 US for the LEVEL of increased performance?? That's a subjective decision and for most gamers most likely not. Did I buy my 9650 for benchmarks?? No. Do I run them?? Absolutely.

I plunked down alot of cash for a chip that for now won't allow me to run SLI. Am I completely happy? Nope.

But the level of performance difference is very substantial 65nm vs 45nm..
The E8xxx chips should prove to be awesome.

Bottom line is that gaming at > 4ghz is very different, It will definately be worth a look in the next few months. I made the decision to not wait and spend the $$ to get an early look with a single gpu, and I'm VERY impressed. I can't wait for SLI to materialize with regard to the 45nm quads..


----------



## Robilar

Hmm, the EVGA 780i works fine with your chip and SLI and if I'm not mistaken the board is only a fews bucks more than the maximus


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
I'm on my way out too Dosto.
Ordered a QX9650 today. Waiting on the 780i upgrade email from EVGA.

My friends,

My ASUS Maximus arrived this afternoon, and I've just installed Vista. I managed this right off the bat:


----------



## Robilar

Very nice Dost. You should be able to get close to 4 ghz depending on your temps


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Hmm, the EVGA 780i works fine with your chip and SLI and if I'm not mistaken the board is only a fews bucks more than the maximus



If I'm not mistaken, both the XFX and EVGA boards are "reference" boards no?

Overclocking on the XFX board was poor (< 4ghz ) and unstable at mid 1.5's (vcore).

What I'm saying at this point is the board and/or the bios has not matured to the point where I will spend the money for it.

Please share your experience with the QX9650 and the EVGA 780i. Maybe I just had a bad board, (although my friend's QX6850 seemed to do fine).


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *colt1911*


Question for Litlratt, As you can see in my sig I have the P5N32-E board and have been looking at my upgrading options. I wanted to go with a 45nm quad but they will not work with my 680I. So my question for you is could I oc a Q6600 go to 3.2 on air cooling and be stable with my current board? Then I would only have tobuy 2 (8800Gt cards ) and the Q6600. I new to overclocking so thats why I'm asking the experts. Thanks for your time and help.


Your 6850 should clock higher and produce less heat than what a q6600 will. It seems to be luck of the draw with quads on this board.
I'd say your chances of getting to 3.0-3.2 with a quad are good, not guaranteed.


----------



## colt1911

Thanks Litlratt, would I benefit more by going with a X38 or the 780I mobo? I was thinking of the Q9450 but was going to settle for a Q6600. Right now I know my two 8600GT 's are the bottleneck of my system. So I either go with the X38 and a 8800GTS ( G92 ) and wait for the Q9450 or the 780I and 2 8800GT ( G92 ). I want to go to a quad but should I settle for a Q6600 or wait on the Q9450? Thank you so much for your time and help.


----------



## SLIMaxPower

It seems the bios was the issue. Tried the 1203 and 1203 beta. Ended up with 1302.
Current clock at 3.02Ghz
multi 11
fsb 275
volts 1.425
ram 2.0 (ocz 6400 2gb kit)
ht 1.30
nb 1.3
sb 1.55
vt 1.55

Still using passive cooling on nb and sb. I do have a 120mm fan mounted on the side window beside the 92mm fan (antec sonata case) to blow some air on the passive's. cpu is w/c. 2 x 8800gts o/c
Looks like I have to order 2 Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II Coolers and some Swiftech MC21 MOSFET Heatsinks. I think I read in this thread that thermal tape was used ? If so where.

I think I need to remount my cpu block as temps were around 55C running orthos for a few hours - temps from everest, though I am using my original swiftec cpu block (h20-80 micro) but have a Hardware Labs Black Ice GT Stealth 360 XFLOW rad with 3/8 connections.

I aim to get to 3.6ghz at least. Any other suggestions


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *colt1911* 
Thanks Litlratt, would I benefit more by going with a X38 or the 780I mobo? I was thinking of the Q9450 but was going to settle for a Q6600. Right now I know my two 8600GT 's are the bottleneck of my system. So I either go with the X38 and a 8800GTS ( G92 ) and wait for the Q9450 or the 780I and 2 8800GT ( G92 ). I want to go to a quad but should I settle for a Q6600 or wait on the Q9450? Thank you so much for your time and help.

At this point, I think you would experience a larger performance increase by upgrading your GPUs to the 8800GTs.
Let the rest of us idiots troubleshoot the 780i and then you can decide on it or wait on the 790i.


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
At this point, I think you would experience a larger performance increase by upgrading your GPUs to the 8800GTs.
Let the rest of us idiots troubleshoot the 780i and then you can decide on it or wait on the 790i.


OK ratt, you got all the weapons, so you're the chief shooter. I'll report any of my stumblings to you.

Maybe you can start an *official* 780i thread and be famous.....

What are you gonna run your 9650 in when it arrives???


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuclearjock* 
If I'm not mistaken, both the XFX and EVGA boards are "reference" boards no?

Overclocking on the XFX board was poor (< 4ghz ) and unstable at mid 1.5's (vcore).

What I'm saying at this point is the board and/or the bios has not matured to the point where I will spend the money for it.

Please share your experience with the QX9650 and the EVGA 780i. Maybe I just had a bad board, (although my friend's QX6850 seemed to do fine).

I have only tested the EVGA A1's. I expect I'll pick up a 780i when they become locally available. Hipro at extreme got 4.7 ghz on air with an evga 780i and a qx9650 (Thats orthos stable). Kingpin is currently testing a new bench system with the 780i and 3 ultra's (using a qx9650). So far the feedback from the "Extreme" guys is that its very stable for 4 ghz + overclocks. Not to disparage the asus maximus but the evga should be on par (or very close) but have SLI support....

Ratt, the 790i is going to be DDR3. Tough sell there unless the ram prices and latencies drop signifigantly.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *colt1911* 
Thanks Litlratt, would I benefit more by going with a X38 or the 780I mobo? I was thinking of the Q9450 but was going to settle for a Q6600. Right now I know my two 8600GT 's are the bottleneck of my system. So I either go with the X38 and a 8800GTS ( G92 ) and wait for the Q9450 or the 780I and 2 8800GT ( G92 ). I want to go to a quad but should I settle for a Q6600 or wait on the Q9450? Thank you so much for your time and help.

The Q9450 is not going to be available until the very end of Q1 2008.

I am very impressed with my 8800GT's in SLI. They score very close to the pair of 8800gtx I had awhile back.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuclearjock* 
OK ratt, you got all the weapons, so you're the chief shooter. I'll report any of my stumblings to you.

Maybe you can start an *official* 780i thread and be famous.....

What are you gonna run your 9650 in when it arrives???

If he has ordered the 9650, the only choice right now is an intel chipset board or the EVGA 780i. It simply will not work in any of the 680i boards.


----------



## nuclearjock

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I have only tested the EVGA A1's. I expect I'll pick up a 780i when they become locally available. Hipro at extreme got 4.7 ghz on air with an evga 780i and a qx9650 (Thats orthos stable). Kingpin is currently testing a new bench system with the 780i and 3 ultra's (using a qx9650). So far the feedback from the "Extreme" guys is that its very stable for 4 ghz + overclocks. Not to disparage the asus maximus but the evga should be on par (or very close) but have SLI support....

Ratt, the 790i is going to be DDR3. Tough sell there unless the ram prices and latencies drop signifigantly.

Well then something might have been funky with the board I had. But why the 6850 did well seems strange.

Anyway I've never been a fan of any of the Nvidia reference boards.

I'll admit to being an Asus fan boy (although that wears thin sometimes), but I like the way their bios's are done, an their departure from the reference board often includes more substantial components.

I did buy an A1 when I first took delivery of this chip and I returned it the next day.

I totally agree with your assesment of 790i and DDR3, I think the 780's will ultimately work fine.

Hopefully the P5N-T deluxe will start showing up soon, and it will actually work with my 9650.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I have only tested the EVGA A1's. I expect I'll pick up a 780i when they become locally available. Hipro at extreme got 4.7 ghz on air with an evga 780i and a qx9650 (Thats orthos stable). Kingpin is currently testing a new bench system with the 780i and 3 ultra's (using a qx9650). So far the feedback from the "Extreme" guys is that its very stable for 4 ghz + overclocks. Not to disparage the asus maximus but the evga should be on par (or very close) but have SLI support....

Ratt, the 790i is going to be DDR3. Tough sell there unless the ram prices and latencies drop signifigantly.

Agreed , no desire here for DDR3. Performance was as expected with the high lats.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
The Q9450 is not going to be available until the very end of Q1 2008.

I am very impressed with my 8800GT's in SLI. They score very close to the pair of 8800gtx I had awhile back.

I will now do my I told you so, I told you so, I told you so, regarding SLI support.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
If he has ordered the 9650, the only choice right now is an intel chipset board or the EVGA 780i. It simply will not work in any of the 680i boards.

I signed up for the 780i upgrade on day one. Apparently, something glitched and I'm not even in the queue. Trying to resolve it with EVGA now. I want SLI, so it's 780i or nothing for me at the moment.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
Agreed , no desire here for DDR3. Performance was as expected with the high lats.

I will now do my I told you so, I told you so, I told you so, regarding SLI support.

I signed up for the 780i upgrade on day one. Apparently, something glitched and I'm not even in the queue. Trying to resolve it with EVGA now. I want SLI, so it's 780i or nothing for me at the moment.

Hmm, you were right









I ordered a 780i this morning.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Hmm, you were right









I ordered a 780i this morning.

Where did you find one? I ordered one too and will sell the upgrade when I eventually get it.


----------



## Litlratt

Atacom here, but nothing to suggest whether or not it was in stock.


----------



## Robilar

ASI Partner here in Canada had one left in its vancouver office. I'm having it drop shipped to Toronto.


----------



## alexisd

Im still using my P5N32 SLI from day 1 without issues enjoy every minute.But for all the members that want to have,the top end in mobos=congrats and have fun with all the new hardware.For now my money goes to my truck,that's another expensive hobby.For example my next mod for the truck is some custom mufflers and some CAI.
And just want to said HI to all my good mates in this great thead that help a lot of members around the forum.Keep up the good work.


----------



## Litlratt

Right back atcha alex. We miss ya.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Right back atcha alex. We miss ya.


Thank's Litlratt,been busy with my truck ha ha,i see all of you have new hardware.How those benchies?Look Robilar 2 8800gt bammm killer.I bet his sores are great.


----------



## Litlratt

Robilar and I are both waiting on 780i boards. Maybe he'll start a new guide...hint,hint.
Putting a QX9650 in mine, not a clue what Robs going to do.


----------



## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Robilar and I are both waiting on 780i boards. Maybe he'll start a new guide...hint,hint.
Putting a QX9650 in mine, not a clue what Robs going to do.


Are u guys getting the Asus?


----------



## Robilar

Littleratt, I'm going with an E8500...









Sly, word has it that the Asus 780i board does not have the necessary gtl voltage mod needed to overclock quads fully (whereas the evga does). I would have preferred Asus as my trusty P5N32-E was the best board I've owned (and I've had many) but I expect I'll end up with a Q series quad by end of next year.


----------



## blackhawk777

is it necessary to change the ram timings too?


----------



## Robilar

With 4 gb leave the timings on auto but make sure to set your ram voltage correctly.


----------



## blackhawk777

ok.

im still confused on OCing the Q6600. i wanna get it up to 3.2GHz at least. any suggestions?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackhawk777*


ok.

im still confused on OCing the Q6600. i wanna get it up to 3.2GHz at least. any suggestions?


Do as Robilar suggests on page 1.
Try around 2.8 to start with while watching temps.
Stock cooling is not recommended for higher clocks.


----------



## cdxsuprace

I got my Q6600 to oc to 3.1 ghz stable with 4 gb Crucial Ballistix Tracer DDR2-800 running at 900 mhz 4-4-4-12 t2 at 2.2v. I have problem running the ram at t1 clock. Any suggestion on how I can lower the timing?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cdxsuprace*


I got my Q6600 to oc to 3.1 ghz stable with 4 gb Crucial Ballistix Tracer DDR2-800 running at 900 mhz 4-4-4-12 t2 at 2.2v. I have problem running the ram at t1 clock. Any suggestion on how I can lower the timing?


Try lowering your ram speed until you can get 1t. Then test to see if it was worth it.


----------



## cdxsuprace

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


Try lowering your ram speed until you can get 1t. Then test to see if it was worth it.


I lower the speed to 800 which is stock speed and I still can't get 1t. I will try to lower a little more but it probably not worth it if I have go too low.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cdxsuprace*


I lower the speed to 800 which is stock speed and I still can't get 1t. I will try to lower a little more but it probably not worth it if I have go too low.


When you bench at 1T, bring your other timings back to 3-3-3-9 or 3-3-3-8 if you can get it. Lower tRC to equal CAS+tRAS+2 so 3-3-3-8 gives you tRC of 13. tRC can really help bandwidth at CR1 and with tighter CAS timings.

When I was running my 4x1 PC2-8500 Ballistix, I was unable to reach speeds in excess of spec'ed 1066MHz. In many cases, running a slow (between 700 and 800MHz) and tight 1T benched better than a loose and fast (over 1K) CR2, especially for longer-term stability. In the end, I swapped 4x1 Ballistix for the inferior Powerchip ICs on the G.Skill 2x2s just to be able to compare at higher speeds.

I'm excited to try my Tracers on the X38. Wife will be angry she's loosing the flashy RAM, but she will have to endure.


----------



## blackhawk777

can u OC the CPU with rivatuner?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

No, and even if you could you wouldn't want to.

Software OC + CPU = paperweight

nTune will OC your CPU, but you would only choose that method if you were deciding between that or throwing your whole rig off a cliff.

You have a mobo with a BIOS made for the OC junkie. It would be a shame to shoot yourself in the foot when you could be getting a pedicure instead. Catch my meaning?

3.83 now (see sigged CPU-Z).
***EDIT: (Sorry for being off-topic; it's just that this is my favorite thread)


----------



## nicoloco

Hi, guys! I have a E6750, and I am having problems going past 3,1 ghz. that is 387,5 mhz FBS, which should be nothing on this mobo. Coretemp is saying 1,632 volts, however it is set to 1,3 in the bios. I have very comfortable temps, now running Prime95 torture test small FFT and reading 48 degrees celcius through coretemp. I have the latest bios, however I can go back to 1203, but I would have to make a bootable CD and would love to not have to do it.









Anybody got any tips? My mem-timings are 5-5-5-15 2t. My VTT is 1,55 as reccomended in the first post. What are you guys doing to get to 3600 mhz? It is strange, some times I get all the way into XP at 3600 mhz (1800 mhz FSB), other times it fails to post.


----------



## mica3speedy

you can put the bios on a usb stick







. what are your other voltages?


----------



## nicoloco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


you can put the bios on a usb stick







. what are your other voltages?


Auto. except for ram 2,1.


----------



## mica3speedy

I would manually set all of them. here is a starting point:
1.2ht: 1.2
nb: 1.4
sb: 1.5
vtt: 1.55

the higher you oc, the higer the voltages need to go as well. I think above 1.45 the nb will need active cooling.


----------



## nicoloco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
I would manually set all of them. here is a starting point:
1.2ht: 1.2
nb: 1.4
sb: 1.5
vtt: 1.55

the higher you oc, the higer the voltages need to go as well. I think above 1.45 the nb will need active cooling.

thanks! Anybody able to confirm those voltages for me? =) What should the PCI-e freq be? I have it at 100 stock now, but is 110 a good idea and if so, why?


----------



## Robilar

The voltages are fine but without aftermarket cooling on the nb and sb ,things will get a bit toasty.

pci-e should be left stock. Upping it adds voltage to the pci-e lanes that travel through the northbridge. It in theory can add stability to video card overclocks but it also adds to the overhead in the northbridge controller (And generates additional heat). 110 really shouldn't cause harm, I ran my rig at 110 for months but then again i had active cooling on the nb.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Ideal starting point voltages are listed on the first page of this thread. Those look good for starters, but I've always kept 1.2HT at 1.3. You'll need more NB volts as you pass 400 on the FSB.

The PCI-E freq doesn't affect anything as far as I can tell. I have read numerous threads where others come to the same conclusion. The one thing I will confirm, though, is that I can get a higher OC on my GTX when I overvolt SB a little. Start at 1.5v and if you can't get your desired OC, try 1.55.

All of these recommended voltages assume you have aftermarket cooling on your NB and SB (especially NB, though). If you don't, I would recommend NOT overvolting the chipset at all.

***EDIT: LOL! Robilar beat me to it!


----------



## nicoloco

OK, tanks guys. I am on stock NB/SB-cooling. What voltages would you then suggest as the highest recommended. Is their any way I could check my SB-/NB-temperatures? Everest must have it somewhere.


----------



## Robilar

Everest won't show it as there are no temp sensors in the chipsets. Incidently, I am selling a pair of Thermaltake extreme spirit II's (the ones I used on my P5N32-E) check the link in my sig if you are interested.


----------



## nicoloco

Thanks, replied in the thread. What voltages do you recommend on stock cooling?


----------



## Robilar

nb 1.5, sb 1.45

vcore whatever your cooling can take


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hello, all! Happy almost new year!!!

I need a stock SB HS for this board. I offer money.

My stock NB HS fit fine for me because I had the HR-03+ on my GTX. My wife just has the stock 320MB GTS and it doesn't fit in the top PCI-E slot with the stock NB HS. I had to put it in the bottom slot, and it's getting hot from poor circulation down there. Oh, in case you're wondering, I used my stock SB HS on the P5N-E I built for the in-laws (P5N-E has absolutely NO anything on SB).

Anyway, if any of you people who slaughtered your SB heatsink/heatpipe want to send it to me, please PM me. Thanks!

Oh. Right now, 380x10. Heat is finally a limiting issue (which is where it should be). I can get 4.0+ but it's not even stable enough for a screenie, LOL!


----------



## shizam

Hey Guys
I have finally gotten my setup stable. I reset system defaults in the bios then flashed to 1203. I removed my ram when it would not post and fund it would post on one stick. I could then get it to post on 2 stick of corsair dominator ram. But they are on the QVL as not working in dual channel. I had run it like this for a long time but it decided to crap out now.
I replaced the ram with OCZ 1000mhz vx sticks and run them at 2.45 volts. I upped the cpu volts to 1.55 and viola. stable as a rock at 50%OC, 3600mhz.

Thanks to all those who helped me!
S

ps Dostoyevsky77, why do you have a Cathay Pacific tail as your Avatar?


----------



## Robilar

2.45 voltage on your ram will cook it mate, cpu vcore is fine seeing as you have excellent cooling


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizam*


(SNIP!)
ps Dostoyevsky77, why do you have a Cathay Pacific tail as your Avatar?


I sure do. I lived in HKG between between 1978 and 2000. My life dream was to be a CX B744 pilot. I made it as far as CPL:S&MEL-I with about 250 hours in C172s and BE76s before my life was inexorably changed by current events. Now, I live out my broken dream in MS FS 2004 (PMDG) where I do real-time transoceanic flights on my purpose-built supercomputer.

You're the first person to notice! Thanks!


----------



## houseofnub

Thanks all for this awesome thread. It's been very helpful so far.
Now I am starting to have a problem, maybe you can help.

As it is now, the computer is running cool and stable. It will run Orthos on all 4 cores for hours with no problem, and the temps never really exceed 55c. But, when I am playing CoD4, the game will occasionally crash to desktop. I recenty reinstalled Windows, so that is the only game installed ATM. I am using all the latest drivers.

Any ideas?

As a side note, I used to run an E6600 in this rig at 3.6Ghz and the game never crashed with that CPU.

P5N32E SLI 1203
Q6600 @ 3.2 (356x9)
Crucial Ballistix DDR2-800 (2x1GB) @ 801 4-4-4-12-2T
BFG 7950GT 565/715 (Stock)
Intel Gbit NIC
WD5000KS 500GB HDD
Corsair 520W PSU
Coolermaster 690 Case (lots and lots of fans)

VCore 1.325 (BIOS) 1.33 (AsusProbe) 1.25 (Speedfan)
VTT Auto (BIOS) 1.38 (AsusProbe)
VDimm 2.10 (BIOS) 2.05 (AsusProbe)
Northbridge Auto (BIOS) 1.35 (AsusProbe)
Southbridge Auto (BIOS) 1.52 (AsusProbe)


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
I sure do. I lived in HKG between between 1978 and 2000. My life dream was to be a CX B744 pilot. I made it as far as CPL:S&MEL-I with about 250 hours in C172s and BE76s before my life was inexorably changed by current events. Now, I live out my broken dream in MS FS 2004 (PMDG) where I do real-time transoceanic flights on my purpose-built supercomputer.

You're the first person to notice! Thanks!

Actually, wanted to ask you long time ago, but was too lazy to check, which airline the tail belongs to... Dostoevsky in HKG?! Sounds funny


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

House of Nub: Are you in Vista or XP? Your problem is more likely the OS than the mobo. If you're in Vista, I have some ideas for you. In the meantime, fill out your specs HERE.

Bundlebr, read THIS and memorize. Test tomorrow.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Hello, all! Happy almost new year!!!

I need a stock SB HS for this board. I offer money.

My stock NB HS fit fine for me because I had the HR-03+ on my GTX. My wife just has the stock 320MB GTS and it doesn't fit in the top PCI-E slot with the stock NB HS. I had to put it in the bottom slot, and it's getting hot from poor circulation down there. Oh, in case you're wondering, I used my stock SB HS on the P5N-E I built for the in-laws (P5N-E has absolutely NO anything on SB).

Anyway, if any of you people who slaughtered your SB heatsink/heatpipe want to send it to me, please PM me. Thanks!

Oh. Right now, 380x10. Heat is finally a limiting issue (which is where it should be). I can get 4.0+ but it's not even stable enough for a screenie, LOL!

You're welcome to mine if I can find it. You pay shipping.


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


I signed up for the 780i upgrade on day one. Apparently, something glitched and I'm not even in the queue. Trying to resolve it with EVGA now. I want SLI, so it's 780i or nothing for me at the moment.


Are you exchanging ASUS board for eVGA?







Is it possible?


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Bundlebr, read THIS and memorize. Test tomorrow.


OK, scanned through the article, the closest relation between Cathay and Dostoevsky was codeshare agreement with Aeroflot...









Memorizing any number of facts isn't going to make anybody smarter even by a notch. Anyway, thank you, Mentor.


----------



## juanchipms

Hi guys i need help again. I OC my q6600 to 3,2 ghz, vcore 1.3375, 1.2vt=1.3, nb= 1.4, sb 1.55 and vtt 1.55. Ran prime95 25.5 for a couple of hours and stable no erros. i start playing Gears of war and got the vista error Gears of war has stopped working and same with crysis. Now i clear de cmos and left the settings to stock. play the game with no errors. does this mean that my overclock is primestable but not gamestable? any ideas how to fix this?. i also try raising the voltages of the nb and vcore but nothing happen.


----------



## nicoloco

I am going to steal reply nr 4000 and say that this is one awesome thread!


----------



## Robilar

Its nice to have my thread appreciated so much









Picked up my EVGA 780i this evening. I started a thread for it. Once I get it built, I will post pics of the board and bios shots. I intend to create an overclocking guide for the board similar to this one. Littlratt has graciously consented to assisting me in the process once he gets his board as well.

Stay tuned


----------



## nicoloco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Its nice to have my thread appreciated so much









Picked up my EVGA 780i this evening. I started a thread for it. Once I get it built, I will post pics of the board and bios shots. I intend to create an overclocking guide for the board similar to this one. Littlratt has graciously consented to assisting me in the process once he gets his board as well.

Stay tuned


Nice! That sounds SO good! I actually ordered my Spirits today through work. Delayed christmas present. I also ordered an additional Sunbeam Reobus and a HR-03 for my 8800GTX. Now I am only wondering if the mosfets will need cooling, as the stock cooling has cooling over them.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nicoloco* 
Nice! That sounds SO good! I actually ordered my Spirits today through work. Delayed christmas present. I also ordered an additional Sunbeam Reobus and a HR-03 for my 8800GTX. Now I am only wondering if the mosfets will need cooling, as the stock cooling has cooling over them.

Yes, you will need to replace the mosfet cooling. The Swiftechs are popular for this.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *juanchipms* 
Robilar now that you are getting the evga 780i i have a question for you. i heard that the asus 780i is coming out the second week of this month do you think that evga will be better than the asus?

also lets see if you can help or someone else.

I OC my q6600 to 3,2 ghz (1422 fsb, 9 multi), vcore 1.3375, 1.2vt=1.3, nb= 1.4, sb 1.55 and vtt 1.55. Ran prime95 25.5 for a couple of hours and stable no erros. i start playing Gears of war and got the vista error Gears of war has stopped working and same with crysis. Now i clear de cmos and left the settings to stock. play the game with no errors. does this mean that my overclock is primestable but not gamestable? any ideas how to fix this?. i also try raising the voltages of the nb and vcore but nothing happen.

Possible, but not guaranteed that that is the problem.
Sb seems a little high for 3.2, try 1.5 instead of 1.55.
GTXs exhaust hot air into the case also, ensure that you have good airflow.
How high have you gone on vcore? I wouldn't expect vcore to be the issue as you are prime stable. Did you blend test or small fft?


----------



## juanchipms

Robilar now that you are getting the evga 780i i have a question for you. i heard that the asus 780i is coming out the second week of this month do you think that evga will be better than the asus?

also lets see if you can help or someone else.

I OC my q6600 to 3,2 ghz (1422 fsb, 9 multi), vcore 1.3375, 1.2vt=1.3, nb= 1.4, sb 1.55 and vtt 1.55. Ran prime95 25.5 for a couple of hours and stable no erros. i start playing Gears of war and got the vista error Gears of war has stopped working and same with crysis. Now i clear de cmos and left the settings to stock. play the game with no errors. does this mean that my overclock is primestable but not gamestable? any ideas how to fix this?. i also try raising the voltages of the nb and vcore but nothing happen.


----------



## Robilar

My understanding of the Asus board is that there were issues with 45nm quads still (after all the asus 780i is essentially a 680i striker with a pci-e 2.0 controller chip). Given that the 680i striker (Which i owned) did not support 45nm quads, I have to wonder if they will have to retool the gtl voltage reference controller or leave it as is. There apparently is a alpha bios that allows the 680i striker to work with 45nm quads but I doubt very much overclocking would be possible.

NCSA got a DFI 680i to overclock a QX9650 to over 4 ghz but at over 1.8 vcore!!!

He indicated that was the only way to offer limited stability.

I would wait and see. The EVGA is a solid board and their 780 will doubtless be fine (more on that once I test it a bit). Asus has always been a favorite of mine so we will have to see what they can come up with. Given their resources, I expect they will resolve it but it may delay the board further.


----------



## nuclearjock

Just saw THIS in another forum. I wonder if there is still hope for 45nm quad support on the P5N32-E??

I've still got mine.


----------



## juanchipms

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
Yes, you will need to replace the mosfet cooling. The Swiftechs are popular for this.

Possible, but not guaranteed that that is the problem.
Sb seems a little high for 3.2, try 1.5 instead of 1.55.
GTXs exhaust hot air into the case also, ensure that you have good airflow.
How high have you gone on vcore? I wouldn't expect vcore to be the issue as you are prime stable. Did you blend test or small fft?

Thanks for you repply Litlratt. I did both blend and ffft for about 2 hours each of them with no errors. I have one thermaltake spirit II on each of the chipsets. But i have to say that the nb even with the active colling still get really hot when i touch it.

About the air to the gtx 8800 i think im ok with that. the temps are idle 53 and load about 75.

I also have set the settings in the bios as it says on the first page of the post.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *juanchipms* 
Thanks for you repply Litlratt. I did both blend and ffft for about 2 hours each of them with no errors. I have one thermaltake spirit II on each of the chipsets. But i have to say that the nb even with the active colling still get really hot when i touch it.

About the air to the gtx 8800 i think im ok with that. the temps are idle 53 and load about 75.

I also have set the settings in the bios as it says on the first page of the post.

And the mosfets?


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nuclearjock* 
Just saw THIS in another forum. I wonder if there is still hope for 45nm quad support on the P5N32-E??

I've still got mine.

Bear in mind the striker extreme already worked at stock with the QX 45nm. I don't think overclockers will consider a bios revision that allows us to use a quad at stock only.


----------



## nicoloco

What are the stock passive heatsinks filled with on this motherboard? I guess their is some sort of liquid in them. I didn't order mosfet-coolers and I will be getting my chipset-coolers any day now. I don't want to fry my mosfets, and thought I might as well cut the tubes and solder them shut on the stock cooling to allow some cooling to the mosfets while I wait until i can afford some good heatsinks.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nicoloco* 
What are the stock passive heatsinks filled with on this motherboard? I guess their is some sort of liquid in them. I didn't order mosfet-coolers and I will be getting my chipset-coolers any day now. I don't want to fry my mosfets, and thought I might as well cut the tubes and solder them shut on the stock cooling to allow some cooling to the mosfets while I wait until i can afford some good heatsinks.

I believe they are filled with a gas, definitely not liquid.
I crushed the pipes prior to cutting them. Whether or not it trapped the gas inside, I don't know, but I haven't had any issues.


----------



## nicoloco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
I believe they are filled with a gas, definitely not liquid.
I crushed the pipes prior to cutting them. Whether or not it trapped the gas inside, I don't know, but I haven't had any issues.

OK, cool. I was waiting for you guys to call me all sorts of names and ask me what kind of a ghetto-builder I was. Lol. I will remove the HS's and do my best. Don't think crushing is going to give a good enough seal, though. I think the pipe is there to transfer the heat from the NB to the mosfet-heatsink, so I think it will be fine without any of that liquid/gass.


----------



## juanchipms

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


And the mosfets?


For the mofsets i have 2 sets of what Robilar recommend in the first post the Swiftech MC21.


----------



## nicoloco

those are tiny. any pic of those fitted? what about these? http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa...et_cooler.html


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Yes, Robilar took some awesome photos of his Swiftechs right after he installed them... CLICK HERE. Those Thermalrights look like beasts. Make sure the footprint matches and there's clearance for your case/CPU HSF or whatever else might get in the way (ATX 12v 8-pin, for example). Nice thing about the MC21s is that you don't need to worry about that.


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicoloco*


those are tiny. any pic of those fitted? what about these? http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa...et_cooler.html


1. Robilar posted pix of his somewhere close to the beginning of the thread.

2. Any bridge-type HS covering few MOSFETs has inherent problem: it's stiffer than the board, thus tight fitting over MOSFETs causes it to bend the board => MOSFETs under the middle of the "bridge" are not in good contact with such HS. I use very soft Thermagon T-pli 260 + support the board from it's back, but still not very satisfied with heat transfer.

3. Given all the heat flowing there from NB and SB through the heatpipes in standard solution (heatpipes work best in vertical position with heat source at the bottom and HS at top), the MOSFETs need not much cooling for themselves.

4. Can we consider MOSFET overheating as a fuse against frying your CPU/chipset by overvolting? I don't believe that the board designers were dumber than me...


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicoloco*


those are tiny. any pic of those fitted? what about these? http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa...et_cooler.html


1. Robilar posted pix of his HS's somewhere close to the beginning of the thread.

2. Any bridge-type HS covering few MOSFETs has inherent problem: it's stiffer than the board, thus tight fitting over MOSFETs causes it to bend the board => MOSFETs under the middle of the "bridge" are not in good contact with such HS. I use very soft Thermagon T-pli 260 + support the board from it's back, but still not very satisfied with heat transfer.

3. Given all the heat flowing there from NB and SB through the heatpipes in standard solution (heatpipes work best in vertical position with heat source at the bottom and HS at top), the MOSFETs need not much cooling for themselves.

4. Can we consider MOSFET overheating as a fuse against frying your CPU/chipset by overvolting? I don't believe that the board designers were dumber than me...


----------



## juanchipms

Well i try everything but i cant get it to work games even with prime95 stable using blend and ffft tests. i tried lowering the fsb to 1333 that give me 3.0 ghz and i can play so i guess im going to leave it like that.

i think is the board that is limiting my overclock so i might buy a new board now that this board dosent like quads. What do u guys recommend me to get to oc this quad?


----------



## blackhawk777

im having problems with the front audio connector, cant find the connector on the mobo for it, any1 know where it is?

here is how the port looks like

http://www.raidmax.com/Manuals/usermanual-X&K.pdf

scroll down to the "Audio port installation"


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Blackhawk: If you have the on-board Soundmax, it is located on the SoundMax card itself towards the top (furthest from the mobo). If you have something else, what is it?

Litlratt: Payment sent; let me know if you don't get it. Thanks a million!


----------



## blackhawk777

rofl....ya i found that out as soon as i submitted the reply...thanks though.

and i spent almost 1hr figuring it out cause i thought it was on the mobo.

:S


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *juanchipms* 
Well i try everything but i cant get it to work games even with prime95 stable using blend and ffft tests. i tried lowering the fsb to 1333 that give me 3.0 ghz and i can play so i guess im going to leave it like that.

i think is the board that is limiting my overclock so i might buy a new board now that this board dosent like quads. What do u guys recommend me to get to oc this quad?

Nah, I was able to overclock to stable 3.745 GHz my Q6700 by setting Vcore ~1.6 Vdc. Just didn't like such high voltage, thus scaled back to 3.62, which allowed me to set mem to 3-3-3-5 and 1T @ 720 ...
You can try to jump over the bus frequency hole by setting FSB to 1,600+/-few MHz...


----------



## juanchipms

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundlebr* 
Nah, I was able to overclock to stable 3.745 GHz my Q6700 by setting Vcore ~1.6 Vdc. Just didn't like such high voltage, thus scaled back to 3.62, which allowed me to set mem to 3-3-3-5 and 1T @ 720 ...
You can try to jump over the bus frequency hole by setting FSB to 1,600+/-few MHz...

setting the fsb to 1600 and it wont post i tried lowering the multiplier to 8 and set fsb to 1800 but i couldnt get it stable at 1.5 v core so i decided to go down to 3.2 ghz but is stable prime but not when i play games. right now im at 1333 fsb and it let me play without crashing. For what i can see you have the striker extreme and for what i read on the first page and many post the striker is really good overclocking quads but the p5n32-e is not because of the gtl voltage or something like that.


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *juanchipms* 
setting the fsb to 1600 and it wont post i tried lowering the multiplier to 8 and set fsb to 1800 but i couldnt get it stable at 1.5 v core so i decided to go down to 3.2 ghz but is stable prime but not when i play games. right now im at 1333 fsb and it let me play without crashing. For what i can see you have the striker extreme and for what i read on the first page and many post the striker is really good overclocking quads but the p5n32-e is not because of the gtl voltage or something like that.

To get 1600 or 1800 FSB, one has set Vcore >> 1.6 V dc, not ~1.5 V dc, also NB shall go higher, to 1.65-1.70 V dc...
Anyway, you are right, I got StrikerE, which might be different in this aspect.


----------



## juanchipms

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundlebr* 
To get 1600 or 1800 FSB, one has set Vcore >> 1.6 V dc, not ~1.5 V dc, also NB shall go higher, to 1.65-1.70 V dc...
Anyway, you are right, I got StrikerE, which might be different in this aspect.









1.6 vcore i a lot i think... RObilar on the first page said not to exeed 1.55. Also to put 1.65 on the nb i will have to use watercooling. I dont know seems like a lot to me.


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *juanchipms* 
1.6 vcore i a lot i think... RObilar on the first page said not to exeed 1.55. Also to put 1.65 on the nb i will have to use watercooling. I dont know seems like a lot to me.

Never used water - just used good thermal grease and slapped good fan on top of the stock HS + attached TC - never saw it overheating.

What freq. is your memory? I found it way more stable at lower freq and 1T than at higher freq.

Also, are you sure about your VGA stability?
BTW, increasing SB to 1.55 - 1.60 might help - with active cooling!


----------



## iviyth0s

i need help, i can't overclock ANY of my components without the system being unable to boot, i'm pretty sure my board should be sent in because i have tried every configuration I can find and nothing works (the system runs fine stock but thats not what i bought this motherboard for)
heres what i have running:
Mobo: Asus P5N32-E SLI 680i
Processor: Core 2 E6600 *stock*
Memory: 4gb Corsair DHX XMS2 800mhz 5-5-5-18 *Stock right now* (I also have 4gb of Super Talent ram too)
Videocard: BFG OC 8800 GTX (OC'd: Core-650mhz,Memory-1020mhz)
PSU: PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750W
Harddrive(s): 2 x (Raid 0) Western Digital Raptor X 150gb 10,000 Rpm SATA
Iomega 1TB 7200 USB 2.0
Monitor: Acer 22" AL2216W
CD/DVD: Plextor 755 SATA
Keyboard:Razer Tarantula
Mouse: Microsoft Habu
I can't do anything and i grow tired of this board. (My old board is a 975 Asus P5W DH Deluxe and that was good but i couldnt overclock the ram, only the processor)

So do you think i should RMA the board? I have really tried everything


----------



## nicoloco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iviyth0s* 
i need help, i can't overclock ANY of my components without the system being unable to boot, i'm pretty sure my board should be sent in because i have tried every configuration I can find and nothing works (the system runs fine stock but thats not what i bought this motherboard for)
heres what i have running:
Mobo: Asus P5N32-E SLI 680i
Processor: Core 2 E6600 *stock*
Memory: 4gb Corsair DHX XMS2 800mhz 5-5-5-18 *Stock right now* (I also have 4gb of Super Talent ram too)
Videocard: BFG OC 8800 GTX (OC'd: Core-650mhz,Memory-1020mhz)
PSU: PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750W
Harddrive(s): 2 x (Raid 0) Western Digital Raptor X 150gb 10,000 Rpm SATA
Iomega 1TB 7200 USB 2.0
Monitor: Acer 22" AL2216W
CD/DVD: Plextor 755 SATA
Keyboard:Razer Tarantula
Mouse: Microsoft Habu
I can't do anything and i grow tired of this board. (My old board is a 975 Asus P5W DH Deluxe and that was good but i couldnt overclock the ram, only the processor)

So do you think i should RMA the board? I have really tried everything

Hello, and welcome to the forum! That is one nice looking setup you have there.What settings are you adjusting? Did you try setting voltages before clocking?


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iviyth0s* 
i need help, i can't overclock ANY of my components without the system being unable to boot, i'm pretty sure my board should be sent in because i have tried every configuration I can find and nothing works (the system runs fine stock but thats not what i bought this motherboard for)
heres what i have running:
Mobo: Asus P5N32-E SLI 680i
Processor: Core 2 E6600 *stock*
Memory: 4gb Corsair DHX XMS2 800mhz 5-5-5-18 *Stock right now* (I also have 4gb of Super Talent ram too)
Videocard: BFG OC 8800 GTX (OC'd: Core-650mhz,Memory-1020mhz)
PSU: PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750W
Harddrive(s): 2 x (Raid 0) Western Digital Raptor X 150gb 10,000 Rpm SATA
Iomega 1TB 7200 USB 2.0
Monitor: Acer 22" AL2216W
CD/DVD: Plextor 755 SATA
Keyboard:Razer Tarantula
Mouse: Microsoft Habu
I can't do anything and i grow tired of this board. (My old board is a 975 Asus P5W DH Deluxe and that was good but i couldnt overclock the ram, only the processor)

So do you think i should RMA the board? I have really tried everything

I'd suggest that you start with setting your VGA to factory settings (600/1800, if I remember right), before trying to OC rest of the system.

Then would check memory voltage - must be as required, not auto.
I usually try first to set memory to linked/synced and 2T - this will get you lower mem freqs, but more stability. You'll be able to tighten latencies later. I used to have 2MB G.Skill 800 (and P5W DH with E6600) - the memory was very hard to OC using both mobos, even StrikerE.

Then try to increase CPU freq until unstable, then start upping Vcore. In general, follow Robilar's guide.


----------



## shizam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
2.45 voltage on your ram will cook it mate, cpu vcore is fine seeing as you have excellent cooling

This ram is different. It is spec'd to run at ridiculous voltage.
OCZ Extreme Voltage!


----------



## shizam

My bad for not updating my signature!

As for the stability, it appears to not be so stable anymore. I couldnt resume from Standby without getting a bluescreen. Also Prime95 started to reboot the computer?! I recently upgraded to the newest forceware driver for the 8800gtx, that may be the issue, but I keep getting nvlddmkm.sys BSODs also.
I reset the processor down to 2.7ghz but left the voltages to see if it would be stable. I uninstalled the Nvidia drivers for now to isolate the issue, but this is driving me mental. Even with windows drivers it is causing problems.

Do you guys think I need higher voltages to run that overclock?
It is frustrating as it ran fine for several months and now, in the cooler season with low room temps, I cant get it to run 3.6.
Even the vista software seems to be corrupting.
Any suggestions?

PS Dostoyevsky77, sorry to hear about your plans re the 744 being changed. I think the 777 fleet is better to work for anyway.








S


----------



## shizam

double post


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Are you still at 1.55 vCore?

Something doesn't seem right if you were okay before but you're having problems now. If something isn't broke, it is probably a Windows issue. Just uninstalling the Nvidia drivers is often inadequate, as their uninstall program almost always leaves residual files. If you haven't yet, I recommend a complete reformat/reinstall of everything. Are you in XP or Vista? And what kind of BSOD are you getting? Often, the Windows error can allude to any hardware errors.

Another thought: can you run your RAM at lower voltages? Just because they are rated that high doesn't mean you need all that power. Maybe you're overloading the memory controller or NB. For that matter, what are your NB/SB voltages? Do you have aftermarket cooling?

My final thought is that most people like to post their system specs in HERE as opposed to in the signature block.

My (last) final thought is that 777 > 747 = blasphemy.


----------



## juanchipms

Hey Robilar or anyone do you think if i get the striker extreme i could overclock more stable my q6600? because i got a deal to sell my P5N32-E and i dont know if it would be a good idea. If not what mobo would you get to oc the q6600 it has to be sli because i order another 8800 gtx.


----------



## Robilar

Yes, considering I had a striker for awhile. The striker is on par with the evga a1 and t1 for quad overclocking.

I would recommend the evga 780i though. It will not only match quad overclocking of any of the 680i series but it is also fully compliant with the new 45nm quads. And its cheaper than the Striker.


----------



## shizam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Are you still at 1.55 vCore?

Something doesn't seem right if you were okay before but you're having problems now. If something isn't broke, it is probably a Windows issue. Just uninstalling the Nvidia drivers is often inadequate, as their uninstall program almost always leaves residual files. If you haven't yet, I recommend a complete reformat/reinstall of everything. Are you in XP or Vista? And what kind of BSOD are you getting? Often, the Windows error can allude to any hardware errors.

Another thought: can you run your RAM at lower voltages? Just because they are rated that high doesn't mean you need all that power. Maybe you're overloading the memory controller or NB. For that matter, what are your NB/SB voltages? Do you have aftermarket cooling?

My final thought is that most people like to post their system specs in HERE as opposed to in the signature block.

My (last) final thought is that 777 > 747 = blasphemy.



System specs uploaded. Thanks for the prompt!
I am running Vista ultimate , 32
I am sure there is some hardware issue. The BSOD's I am getting are different every time.
I originally had it running bulletproof at 3.6Ghz, 60% OC. Temp Never got over 45c. At this time I was running Corsair dominator ram, stock settings but 2.10 voltage and 4-4-4-12 1T. It ran for maybe 8 months with no issues. Then it would occasionally lock up or BSOD. Then it would not turn on. No post, nothing. I pulled the ram out and moved the last stick. It booted and I took the Bios back to 1203. It ran ok with the Vcore at 1.55, set and everest checked. I thought I had it solved but it slowly got worse again. I changed the ram because the dominator said it would not work on the Asus QVL. The OCZ passed a long memtest run.
Now I am back to all stock settings and stability is poor but limping along. If I put the machine in standby it BSOD's on wake up. If I shut it down it wont boot on the first try ever. It will on the second try.
I tried setting the Ram volts to 2.1v yesterday and it wouldn't post. Nothing. I pulled both sticks and moved the last single stick. Pulled the Cmos batt and finally it rebooted. I think I need voltage to keep this RAM happy.

I am currently trying to decide if the board is screwed, or I have some issue I can't figure. The NB is water cooled by swiftech and the SB is stock with an extra heatsink on it.
If the SB was over heating would it act like this?
I was running the NB at 1.4v and the SB at 1.5v

I am getting ready to drag this thing behind my car.

PS Dostoyevsky77... the 747 is a classic machine and I would love to fly it, but compared to the Triple, it looks like a museum piece!
S


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizam*


System specs uploaded. Thanks for the prompt!
I am running Vista ultimate , 32
I am sure there is some hardware issue. The BSOD's I am getting are different every time.
I originally had it running bulletproof at 3.6Ghz, 60% OC. Temp Never got over 45c. At this time I was running Corsair dominator ram, stock settings but 2.10 voltage and 4-4-4-12 1T. It ran for maybe 8 months with no issues. Then it would occasionally lock up or BSOD. Then it would not turn on. No post, nothing. I pulled the ram out and moved the last stick. It booted and I took the Bios back to 1203. It ran ok with the Vcore at 1.55, set and everest checked. I thought I had it solved but it slowly got worse again. I changed the ram because the dominator said it would not work on the Asus QVL. The OCZ passed a long memtest run.
Now I am back to all stock settings and stability is poor but limping along. If I put the machine in standby it BSOD's on wake up. If I shut it down it wont boot on the first try ever. It will on the second try.
I tried setting the Ram volts to 2.1v yesterday and it wouldn't post. Nothing. I pulled both sticks and moved the last single stick. Pulled the Cmos batt and finally it rebooted. I think I need voltage to keep this RAM happy.

I am currently trying to decide if the board is screwed, or I have some issue I can't figure. The NB is water cooled by swiftech and the SB is stock with an extra heatsink on it.
If the SB was over heating would it act like this?
I was running the NB at 1.4v and the SB at 1.5v

I am getting ready to drag this thing behind my car.

PS Dostoyevsky77... the 747 is a classic machine and I would love to fly it, but compared to the Triple, it looks like a museum piece!
S


It sounds like a board issue. Especially if you're at stock and still having issues.
You could do as Dosto suggested and reinstall, that would be the cheapest step in troubleshooting.
1.55 is comparably high for 3.6, but should have been ok with your low temps.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizam*


(SNIP!)

If I shut it down it wont boot on the first try ever. It will on the second try.

(SNIP!)


Hey, this is a REALLY big deal. If it doesn't POST on the first go, the board goes into a kind of SOS mode where it loads arbitrary values for all your BIOS settings that it knows will certainly POST. It's kind of a recovery feature so you don't have to reset CMOS every time you OC something beyond the capabilities of the system. This symptom is very important for you to understand because it means - with the second reboot - that none of the values you put in BIOS are in effect. Effectively, you're running your machine with arbitrary safety values.

For your situation, I would start over by resetting CMOS and loading setup defaults in BIOS. Reformat/reinstall Vista, then start changing one BIOS setting at a time, very conservatively so you can pinpoint exactly what is messing you up.

Or you can just RMA the board.

Incidentally, my new board has two awesome features that I love: 1) a CMOS reset button on the back! And, 2) It forces me into BIOS if it needs to use POST failure recovery.


----------



## shizam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Hey, this is a REALLY big deal. If it doesn't POST on the first go, the board goes into a kind of SOS mode where it loads arbitrary values for all your BIOS settings that it knows will certainly POST. It's kind of a recovery feature so you don't have to reset CMOS every time you OC something beyond the capabilities of the system. This symptom is very important for you to understand because it means - with the second reboot - that none of the values you put in BIOS are in effect. Effectively, you're running your machine with arbitrary safety values.

For your situation, I would start over by resetting CMOS and loading setup defaults in BIOS. Reformat/reinstall Vista, then start changing one BIOS setting at a time, very conservatively so you can pinpoint exactly what is messing you up.

Or you can just RMA the board.

Incidentally, my new board has two awesome features that I love: 1) a CMOS reset button on the back! And, 2) It forces me into BIOS if it needs to use POST failure recovery.



When it reboots with the SOS settings, I hit delete and it will reload all my setting in the bios. Then it runs fine....at least on that boot.
I am thinking I will have to reinstall, but it will be a huge PITA. I just had a look at the failures and there were a ton of video driver issues. Is there a way to completely uninstall the Forceware to redo it?
S


----------



## Litlratt

Reinstalling Windows and/or your video drivers will have absolutely no effect on it's failure to POST.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Here is how I would go about reinstalling video drivers in Vista:

Download the latest driver version (WHQL 169.25). Navigate to windows\\system32\\drivers, and note the date on file nvlddmkm.sys, then open Device Manager. Right-click on your display adapter and choose "uninstall". Select "delete files" when prompted, and restart when prompted into SAFE MODE. Allow safe mode to install the default VGA driver. Open an explorer window (WINDOWS+E), hold ALT and navigate to TOOLS>FOLDER OPTIONS. Force Windows to show you hidden and protected files. Navigate back to windows\\system32\\drivers and delete all the nv*.* files that have the same date as nvlddmkm.sys. Repeat for windows\\system32 (and for windows\\syswow64 in x64). Restart into regular mode and reinstall 169.25.


----------



## nicoloco

Hi guys! Just got my E6750 up to 3300 mhz wothout any problems. RAM is still only at 5-5-5-15 2t, but that isn't my main concern. 1,3 volt cpu and 1,6v NB and rock solid so far. Temps are fine, 50c under full load. Tried 3,6 ghz at 1,57 volt CPU but only post and fails to load XP. Think I am going to try and push it to 3,5 but then I will need to up the voltage so that I think temps will be a concern.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hi, Nicoloco. Your vNB looks high. Is there any reason you're running 1.6? In the most extreme case, I was running at 1.45 on my board. That was with aftermarket cooling and when I was trying to push FSB past 450. Take a look at sigged 3.82 on an E6750. It only needed 1.45v.


----------



## nicoloco

OK. How were temps whn you got as high as 3820


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shizam*


When it reboots with the SOS settings, I hit delete and it will reload all my setting in the bios. Then it runs fine....at least on that boot.
I am thinking I will have to reinstall, but it will be a huge PITA. I just had a look at the failures and there were a ton of video driver issues. Is there a way to completely uninstall the Forceware to redo it?
S


Hi,
video issues might be related to your NB/HT settings - what voltages do you set in the Tweaker?
Another thing: I've seen slow deterioation of the chipset (NB-?) while OC'ing for long time on my P5W DH with E6600. It'll gradually refuse to work at 3.6, then 3.5, then 3.45... Last point was 3.42... Physics at work


----------



## bcampbell2858

Excellent Thread!

Although I haven't read the entire thread (over 400 pages!) I've gotten a good jist of overclocking my Q6600 on the P5n32-E SLI motherboard. I have a couple quick questions. First, here are my current settings.

FYI...using 1203 beta bios

I've disabled everything according to Robilar's Post.
FSB @ 1333
Mem @ 800
Mem Voltage = 2.1v
1.2v HT = 1.3v
NB Core = 1.4v
SB Core = 1.5v
CPU VTT = 1.55v
Mem @ 4/4/4/12 2T entered manually...but this is stock settings for my ram
CPU multi @ 9

All my other stats are in my sig. 
Also..scored 13,596 3dMarks

I'm happy with this setup...I dont want to overdo it...but I am curious if I should try upping the Ram Speed? I have it on unlinked...therefore I did not change the memory speed. It took about 25 different tests to get to 3.0ghz...it actually ended up being the 1203 beta bios that worked...first try actually. Computer has been stable and temps are good. Any recommendations on the memory?

Thanks,

Brian


----------



## Karzy

Ugh i wish i could clock my Q6600 to atleast 3.4 ghz, if iturn the FSB up to 1333 it doesnt post. :'/ ive got a 720 watt psu whats going on here?







, and its not like my processor is over heating ive got liquid cooling


----------



## bcampbell2858

Hey Karzy,

What Bios are you running? I bought my p5n32-e sli a few weeks ago...came with 1205 bios....i couldn't get it past 2.7ghz. Then I tried 1302 beta...no change....I then tried the 1203 beta bios (the one most people will recommend here) and it hit 3.0ghz first try.

-Brian


----------



## Robilar

Are you actively cooling your northbridge and southbridge? As I have stated many times in this thread since creating it, no active cooling means poor overclocks. To get top clocks with a quad (which is admittedly limited) the nb voltage needs to be higher and both chipsets need active coolers.


----------



## Karzy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Are you actively cooling your northbridge and southbridge? As I have stated many times in this thread since creating it, no active cooling means poor overclocks. To get top clocks with a quad (which is admittedly limited) the nb voltage needs to be higher and both chipsets need active coolers.


Yeah its stock, but where i shop doesnt have chipset coolers, Wait do you still have those spirits? cause i could pay you via credit card if you do. and where do you live in canada? i live in Ontario so ide like it lots if can post would be fast


----------



## Robilar

I live in Toronto and yes I still have the coolers for sale.


----------



## Karzy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bcampbell2858*


Hey Karzy,

What Bios are you running? I bought my p5n32-e sli a few weeks ago...came with 1205 bios....i couldn't get it past 2.7ghz. Then I tried 1302 beta...no change....I then tried the 1203 beta bios (the one most people will recommend here) and it hit 3.0ghz first try.

-Brian


I have no clue, ill get back to you on that one, but i have it running stable at 2.9Ghz... if i up the FSB to 1333 It'll run then crash, and my north bridge gets pretty hot


----------



## bcampbell2858

Hey Rob,

I was also thinking about getting some active cooling for NB and SB...I'm looking at the Thermaltake Spirit II's that many people have suggested. First question...tigerdirect marks it as a northbridge cooler...is there a different version for southbridge or does it work for both?

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...OTC-GOOGLEBASE

Second question...can they be installed without the motherboard being removed?

Third question...I'm guessing I will have to get the Swiftech MC21 Anodized Aluminum Heatsinks also? or can I just cut the pipes and leave the stock mosfet heatsinks for now?

Thanks for your time!
Brian


----------



## Karzy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


I live in Toronto and yes I still have the coolers for sale.


You're fast at replying lol. Hmm I should be able to purchase them by the end of this week considering i get 50 dollars allowance, ill just go to mac's milk and buy a gift credit card and pay with that? lol


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bcampbell2858*


Hey Rob,

I was also thinking about getting some active cooling for NB and SB...I'm looking at the Thermaltake Spirit II's that many people have suggested. First question...tigerdirect marks it as a northbridge cooler...is there a different version for southbridge or does it work for both?

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...OTC-GOOGLEBASE

Second question...can they be installed without the motherboard being removed?

Third question...I'm guessing I will have to get the Swiftech MC21 Anodized Aluminum Heatsinks also? or can I just cut the pipes and leave the stock mosfet heatsinks for now?

Thanks for your time!
Brian


there is only one version and it fits fine on both nb and sb (they are adjustable)

you will have to take the mb out

do not cut the pipes or your board warranty goes with it. the swiftech are cheap and effective


----------



## bcampbell2858

Excellent thanks for the info Robilar!

-Brian


----------



## nicoloco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Are you actively cooling your northbridge and southbridge? As I have stated many times in this thread since creating it, no active cooling means poor overclocks. To get top clocks with a quad (which is admittedly limited) the nb voltage needs to be higher and both chipsets need active coolers.

Hi! I fitted my Sprit on the NB, however their wasn't space for it on the SB due to my HR-03.








WHAT TO DO?!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hi, Nicoloco. I also have an HR-03+ (I think I also have the same fan for it, too!). I just used the stock NB HS for the SB. I kept my volts at 1.55v and had no heat issues. I do, however, have 4 120mm case intakes on the side, one of which points towards the SB. If you don't, you might consider 1.5v. You can see the pictures in my gallery.


----------



## nicoloco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Hi, Nicoloco. I also have an HR-03+ (I think I also have the same fan for it, too!). I just used the stock NB HS for the SB. I kept my volts at 1.55v and had no heat issues. I do, however, have 4 120mm case intakes on the side, one of which points towards the SB. If you don't, you might consider 1.5v. You can see the pictures in my gallery.


Thanks! Is the SB a full chip like the SB on the P5N-e sli or is it similar to the NB, which is a small chip? Hope you understand what I mean, it sounds like a stupid question


----------



## shizam

Ok Hardware Guru's HEre is a question for the more enlightened.
I found that my computer has less issues if I underclock my RAM Freq to 800Mhz. I know the ram is ok, but is there maybe a memory controller that it causing issues?
I currently am using 2.0v Ram and 800mhx, even though it is rated to 2.45 and 1000mhz.
Up until now I have used the stock 9x multiplier and upped the FSB.
If I was to overclock using a 13multiplier and keep the stock FSB numbers would that give some idea as to what the issue is? Is that less stressful on some of the MB components?
S


----------



## nicoloco

Hi! I don't think your mulitplier is adjustable upwards. Correct me if I am wrong, but the only way to OC on that cpu is to up the FSB.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Nicoloco, I understand exactly what you mean. The SB is the same as the NB and is a small chip.

Shizam, Nicoloco is correct. You can't increase your multi; you can only lower it. Only extreme (with an "X" in the name) series processors have unlocked multis (often, this is the only difference besides the price tag that is between 3-4 times higher).

You shouldn't HAVE to run your RAM at 800, but if you want to for stability, you might be able to squeeze CR1 and tighter timings to compensate for the slower speed.

Example, compare the RAM bandwidth between these two combinations:
9x400 for 3.6 and RAM at 1:1 (800), 4-4-4-12-2T
or
9x380 for 3.42 and RAM at 1:1 (760), 3-3-3-9-1T

Incidentally, you are running UNLINKED, right?


----------



## shizam

HI
I am running unlinked and used all the settings in this thread to setup my first OC on this machine.
I haven't tried to up the multiplier. Too bad it wont work.
I just rebooted. it took 4 tries to get it to post. Running in the sos recovery mode, my system just ran prime95 for 2 hours. I am still working out where the problem is but I am thinking it must be the board.

With a higher than stock FSB freq, what other than northbridge has to handle more heat?


----------



## CpLRusty

There is a 1302 BIOS on the ASUS FTP site for P5N32E-SLI.

Anyone tried it yet and have any opinions ?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

CplRusty: 
It's been out for a number of weeks if not months. Litlratt & I tried it. It's utter crap for OC.

Shizam:
Running in recovery mode is worse than running everything in AUTO on stock. It chooses overly safe values. Stability in an UNDERclocked (let alone stock) condition should be taken as granted.

Because increasing FSB requires greater vCore and vNB, both CPU and NB need cooling. To answer your question, the other components that will need cooling are the mosfets or VRMs (Voltage Regulating Module) located around the CPU socket (there are eight pairs). These are covered by the stock heatpipes and need some protection if you've removed the stock NB solution (if you want, you can cut the pipes and use the stock mosfet HS by itself, just reseated with some thermal tape... see my sig for free stuff).

Your situation sounds very dire, and I think dire measures are needed. You should consider all or a combination of the following. If they look familiar, it's because a number of people have suggested them before:

1) Reset CMOS and restore BIOS defaults
2) Reformat/reinstall Vista
3) RMA your board

Do these things in order, but don't bother with #2 if you're still failing POST... skip to #3.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CpLRusty*


There is a 1302 BIOS on the ASUS FTP site for P5N32E-SLI.

Anyone tried it yet and have any opinions ?


Tried it and reverted back to 1203.
You have the best overclocking BIOS in my opinion.


----------



## CpLRusty

Thanks Dosto and Littlrat... I'll stay where I am with 1203 since I am happy with my OC.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shizam* 
HI
I am running unlinked and used all the settings in this thread to setup my first OC on this machine.
I haven't tried to up the multiplier. Too bad it wont work.
I just rebooted. it took 4 tries to get it to post. Running in the sos recovery mode, my system just ran prime95 for 2 hours. I am still working out where the problem is but I am thinking it must be the board.

With a higher than stock FSB freq, what other than northbridge has to handle more heat?

You check your memory?What volts you have for those sticks?


----------



## shizam

Alex The RAM is at 2.3volts right now. It is OCZ VXtreme rated to 2.5 max.
I have the timings all set to stock to isolate the problems.
I think it is time for an RMA. Anyone know where I can buy a stock NB heat pipe?
S


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Has anyone seen the 790i Striker II?


----------



## Sylence

I know this is a horribly noob question but for the life of me i cannot find the CPU FSB clock in the BIOS (therefore i am unable to OC in the BIOS). I've looked all over the net and manual and BIOS itself and i cant find the option anywhere! Where's it hiding!?!?!

*Edit* I'm using 1205


----------



## nicoloco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sylence*


I know this is a horribly noob question but for the life of me i cannot find the CPU FSB clock in the BIOS (therefore i am unable to OC in the BIOS). I've looked all over the net and manual and BIOS itself and i cant find the option anywhere! Where's it hiding!?!?!

*Edit* I'm using 1205


it is right there. Manual setting overclocking. It has its own menu for FSB for CPU and RAM. Think it is the 3'rd one, not sure as I am at work. It will be quadpumped, so if you want to set 400FSB you need to change it to 1600.

edit: It should say 1066 stock.


----------



## mjrrenegade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sylence* 
I know this is a horribly noob question but for the life of me i cannot find the CPU FSB clock in the BIOS (therefore i am unable to OC in the BIOS). I've looked all over the net and manual and BIOS itself and i cant find the option anywhere! Where's it hiding!?!?!

*Edit* I'm using 1205

If i were you i'd reflash with bios 1203. 1205 is not very good for overclocking.


----------



## McSterls

I could really use some help with overclocking my system. Everytime I try a FSB >1200 the computer hangs at POST and I have to manually reset the BIOS using the jumper. I have followed the guide, but I'm not sure what to do.

System specs:
P5N32-SLI
Q6600 SLAR GO stepping
4 Gigs of Corsair TWIN2X2048-6400C4PRO
Water cooled

The board came with the 1205 BIOS, this morning following the guide I installed the 1302 Beta BIOS as I thought this might be my problem.

I turned off all suggested settings in the BIOS from the guide.

I set the Memory linked to the FSB and used the 5:4 ratio and set the RAM voltage to stock 2.1 I was unsure about the settings for the RAM which are factory 4-4-4-12 so as I've tried this before and crashed I left these at AUTO this time.

I set the FSB at 1333 and I bumped the CPU VTT at the suggested 1.55 and put the VCORE at 1.45

The computer hangs at the POST screen, it gets as far as DEL to enter Setup - but hangs there and needs to be reset manually. The computer does overclock to FSB=1200 making the Q6600 run at 2.7Ghz - but frankly I was hoping for at least 3 GHz.

Any Help would be appreciated.

Thanks
McSterls


----------



## nicoloco

High, set the memory to unlinked and all timings to auto. Just set RAM-voltage. That should help you out. You will probably boot properly with a 5-5-5-18 timing or something around there.


----------



## Sylence

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mjrrenegade*


If i were you i'd reflash with bios 1203. 1205 is not very good for overclocking.


It looks to me like the only difference between 1203 and 1205 is that 1205 fixes some problem with razer mice. Is this wrong? If so where can i get 1203 cuz it's clearly not available atm.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

That's all they SAY is different, but a lot of us found that 1203 is still better for OC.

Go HERE for 1203.


----------



## McSterls

Thanks, I'll try tonight when I get home. I'm also planning on trying the 1203 BIOS that seems to be so popular.

McSterls


----------



## trueg50

I have to use 1203 due to my razor mouse and keyboard, both by the way cause issues, ie I have to unplug them for the system to not freeze posting, or even to really start. I am still able to overclock pretty well (E6400 3.6ghz, 1.44)

Also, just got my board back from RMA, turns out Asus fixed all of my Vdroop issues! It is now less than 0.01, down from 0.05. Also all my other voltages were no longer +.05 and are more like .02. Scared the heck out of me at first, I was wondering why with all my old settings my board was unstable, and also why my temps were so bad!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trueg50*


I have to use 1203 due to my razor mouse and keyboard, both by the way cause issues, ie I have to unplug them for the system to not freeze posting, or even to really start. I am still able to overclock pretty well (E6400 3.6ghz, 1.44)

Also, just got my board back from RMA, turns out Asus fixed all of my Vdroop issues! It is now less than 0.01, down from 0.05. Also all my other voltages were no longer +.05 and are more like .02. Scared the heck out of me at first, I was wondering why with all my old settings my board was unstable, and also why my temps were so bad!


The +.05 is not unusual and does not appear to affect overclocking.


----------



## Karzy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


The +.05 is not unusual and does not appear to affect overclocking.


HOLY **** YOUR CORE CLOCK IS 4GHZ FOR A QUAD!!! WHAT BIOS ARE YOU USING!??!?!


----------



## an51r

Hey everyone, what RAM slots do you all use for just running two sticks dual channel? I am having stability probs and it keeps pointing towards RAM but MEMtest runs fine.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *an51r*


Hey everyone, what RAM slots do you all use for just running two sticks dual channel? I am having stability probs and it keeps pointing towards RAM but MEMtest runs fine.


Use 1 and 3 slot.You set the rigth volts for your sticks?


----------



## an51r

Yeah right voltage = 2.2, I am thinking it is sound drivers that do not play well with SLI. It seems no sound drivers do.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Karzy*


HOLY **** YOUR CORE CLOCK IS 4GHZ FOR A QUAD!!! WHAT BIOS ARE YOU USING!??!?!


1203
4Ghz was for benching only. 3.6 24\\7.


----------



## McSterls

I loaded up 1203 last night when I got home, instantly no problems overclocking, I hit 3.26Ghz without even trying. After an hour of testing the machine locked up, I've applied more voltage to the Core but haven't tested it yet. Stock was 1.34 I bumped it up one step and not change in voltage was reported by Everest so I bumped it again to 1.46 but that shows as 1.36 in Everest - is this due to V Drop or incorrect reporting of voltage?

Also one minor problem I've got a Belkin Nostromo gaming pad that I've had for about a year. When I plug it in the PC won't post. Why? Unplug it and it posts. I'm not sure if it's USB 1.1 or not, but I have legacy support enabled?

Any thoughts?


----------



## nicoloco

That gamepad has to do with the bios. Does it work when you plug it as soon as windows has booted? These problems are most common with diamond razr mouses and such. I would trust everest any day.


----------



## McSterls

I'll give that a try, you think this problem is similar to the Razr issue?

I have my memory unlinked, running at stock speeds 800mhz 4-4-4-12, does anyone think I should change these settings?

Thanks,
McSterls


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *McSterls* 
I'll give that a try, you think this problem is similar to the Razr issue?

I have my memory unlinked, running at stock speeds 800mhz 4-4-4-12, does anyone think I should change these settings?

Thanks,
McSterls

Please fill out system specs here
http://www.overclock.net/specs.php


----------



## nicoloco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *McSterls* 
I'll give that a try, you think this problem is similar to the Razr issue?

I have my memory unlinked, running at stock speeds 800mhz 4-4-4-12, does anyone think I should change these settings?

Thanks,
McSterls

If you want to push the OC further I would suggest slacking the timings on RAM. I would first set it to all auto, then tighten where you can, or you can set the RAM to 5-5-5-15 2t. That should give you some room to play.


----------



## McSterls

I see that your CPU-z shows your core volatage to be 1.632v and Core Temp says 1.28v - why are they different and which do you trust? Thanks for your advice on the RAM timing.

McSterls


----------



## nicoloco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McSterls*


I see that your CPU-z shows your core volatage to be 1.632v and Core Temp says 1.28v - why are they different and which do you trust? Thanks for your advice on the RAM timing.

McSterls


I have no idea where CPU-z is getting that voltage. Everest is saying 1.3 as it only shows 1 decimal. Coretemp seems to be spot on. Set it to 1.3 in bios.


----------



## We Gone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nicoloco* 
If you want to push the OC further I would suggest slacking the timings on RAM. I would first set it to all auto, then tighten where you can, or you can set the RAM to 5-5-5-15 2t. That should give you some room to play.









Just what I was lookin for...should I stay with 4-4-4 or go ahead with 5-5-5- ??

Type of Crucial Ballistix: DDR2, PC 6400
Running Frequency: 800Mhz (1:1 ratio)
Timings: 4-4-4-12 - 2T
Voltage: 2.125v
Memory Size: 4GB (4 * 1GB)

Been going for 900Mhz..not good

Running Frequency: 900Mhz - unlinked
Timings: 4-4-4-10 - 2T
Voltage: 2.125v

Should I try ?
4-4-4-15-T2
and up the V to 2.2


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I would recommend keeping the RAM loose and at a 1:1 ratio until you find your desired (and stable) CPU OC. Keep the RAM at reference voltages, then loosen to 5-5-5-15-2T. As you increase your FSB, you will have to increase the RAM clock correspondingly to maintain 1:1. Once you are happy with where your CPU is, then you can bring the RAM in and/or up.


----------



## We Gone

Thanks...I was stable @3.4 Ram 800 4-4-4-12-T2. than started messing with Ram. at 900 4-4-4-10-T2 and could run 3Dmark06 with no issues.. but after about 1 hour of orhos it would lock up..


----------



## nicoloco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
I would recommend keeping the RAM loose and at a 1:1 ratio until you find your desired (and stable) CPU OC. Keep the RAM at reference voltages, then loosen to 5-5-5-15-2T. As you increase your FSB, you will have to increase the RAM clock correspondingly to maintain 1:1. Once you are happy with where your CPU is, then you can bring the RAM in and/or up.

yeah. What he said!


----------



## nicoloco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *We Gone* 
Thanks...I was stable @3.4 than started messing with Ram. at 900 4-4-4-10-T2 and could run 3Dmark06 with no issues.. but after about 1 hour of orhos it would lock up..

I'd go for 300 more mhz on the cpu before tighter timings and 50 mhz on RAM any day. I am at 3,33 ghz on my CPU now at 4-4-4-12 2t and somewhat lower mhz than the stock 800. I like it this way, keeping my voltage under 1.3 really keeps temps comfortable even with the CPU-fan just barely spinning and no other fans on. Enjoy the silence, and so does my GF!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Ah... I see, now. First, I will admit that I was unable to get my PC2-8500 Ballistix to reference on my P5N32-E without some extra volts and some luck. In my case, the board was a lot more stubborn overclocking RAM with all four slots filled. So, if your situation is similar to mine (which you can confirm by pulling 2 sticks and OC'ing), I would recommend one of the following:

1) Tighten timings further at 800MHz, or slightly below... even trying for CR of 1T (755 gives you 1:1 at 3.4, so maybe start there for 3-3-3-9-1T with tRC 14)
2) Loosen timings and try to come up even higher than 900

In both cases, some extra volts will go a long way. I run my Ballistix at 2.22v for everyday, but I've taken them to 2.3v before (long story). But first, pull two sticks to confirm that your inability to overclock further is, indeed, due to all four slots being populated.


----------



## CpLRusty

Dostoyevsky:

When you say you "...run my Ballistix at 2.22v for everyday..." where do you mean 2.22v ? Set in BIOS ? Read from BIOS ? Read in OS using Everest ?

Reason I ask is that I have the same Ballistix and same motherboard, only 2GB in my case. I am running 1000Mhz 4-4-4-12-2T @ 2.10v set in BIOS. I get an occasional (less than 1 day) system freeze while gaming and I am having difficulty passing Orthos Blend Pri 5 for more than an hour or so.

I'm trying to figure out if throwing more volts at the problem might solve it, but I'm trying to figure out what you mean by 2.22v.

Thanks!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I set 2.22v in BIOS. They are rated to 2.2v, but I've run them as high as 2.3v (not recommended).


----------



## We Gone

Thanks... I'm back up at 3.4 1520 FSB...Ram 760 4-4-4-12-T2 2.16V ..Ran 3Dmark06 first best score yet 7411...Could not boot at T1

I can not set ratio unless I take it off auto and if I take off auto it sets ram the same as FSB with no option to change.


----------



## nicoloco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *We Gone* 
Thanks... I'm back up at 3.4 1520 FSB...Ram 760 4-4-4-12-T2 2.16V ..Ran 3Dmark06 first best score yet 7411...Could not boot at T1

I can not set ratio unless I take it off auto and if I take off auto it sets ram the same as FSB with no option to change.









just choose unlinked FSB, that should do it.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

I used this guide to OC my CPU and followed every instruction to a T.







Awesome guide and rep+ for sure.

The only thing I'm unsure about is how far you can OC without risking damage to the NB/SB _without_ using aftermarket coolers for them. Robilar says that the NB/SB stock heat pipes are good for stock speeds and a mild OC. Is my 3.3 GHz (1466 FSB) "mild" enough? Or can I push it more?

Does this board have temperature sensors for the NB/SB? Or is there a way to tell?

Eventually I will install aftermarket cooling for the NB/SB, but I'm reluctant since it is very crowded already with two video cards and a sound card. It seems like coolers such as the big TT copper coolers would block airflow going between the video cards.

Am I taking a risk with no NB/SB cooling at this OC? Or can I push it further?

Thanks Robilar again for the great guide (I realize the guide been up for a while but I just got this board







) and TIA to any help!


----------



## We Gone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nicoloco* 
just choose unlinked FSB, that should do it.


Right ..it is auto set at 1.1 just checked w/CPU-Z Orthos good for 55 min so far







if it stays untill the AM I'll go up to 850 mem.

Think this may be a miss read on core temp was steady at 44-45 than I got 1 core reading at 85 the other 43.. than back to 44-43 ? only a 1 sec reading..
3.420 1520FSB Ram 760 4-4-4-12 T2
5hrs 30min lookin good CPU temps 28/52


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow*


Robilar says that the NB/SB stock heat pipes are good for stock speeds and a mild OC. Is my 3.3 GHz (1466 FSB) "mild" enough? Or can I push it more?


I wouldn't recommend running any higher than that without improvements in cooling made to at least the Northbridge. Although it all depends on how many volts you're running through the chipset.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


I wouldn't recommend running any higher than that without improvements in cooling made to at least the Northbridge. Although it all depends on how many volts you're running through the chipset.


It's actually been a bit sketchy lately. Crashed during 3DMark06 and the board reset the OC. It was fine until posted on this thread!









Guess that's a hint to get some better chipset cooling.


----------



## Karzy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


1203
4Ghz was for benching only. 3.6 247.


oh..Im pretty noob at ocing, what is your bios set to? if you have the time to type it all down...lol


----------



## breader

anyone managed to get this going,

Just tried with all 4 stick and no go, just long beeps on startup.

3 sticks worked.

Anyone know what settings I need to tweek???

Thanks in advance


----------



## We Gone

Thanks for your help so far ..Stable @ 3.4 ram 1520 FSB just under 800 4-4-4-12 T2...

Bumped to 850 this AM ....also bumped to mem Volts to 2.150

After reading for hours







I still don't know what has better performance on Ram Lower Timmings or higher speed????

On my son's rig (Same as mine but with a E6750 and 2g ram ATI 1650 128 card) we went from 4-4-4-12 T2 to 4-4-4-8 T2 @800 no other changes and scored the same #s on 3Dmark06? On mine every time I up the speed I show better #s

Thanks again for your help.

Steve


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

We Gone: 3dm is not really a good RAM bench. If you don't mind shelling out $35, I (and probably everyone else in these boards) would recommend the Ultimate version of Everest (CLICK HERE). Under the "tools" section, you will find a RAM/FSB bench. This will answer your question about whether it is better to run slow and tight or fast and loose. Many people will tell you fast & loose is better (and they might be right), but only you can determine what is best for your system.

Breader: Did you run memtest? Did you set your vDIMM and timings in BIOS? This board is picky with all four slots populated. Try upping vNB a bit or giving some extra vDIMM. If that doesn't work, try running a little looser or a little slower to find a stable spot.

GoneTomorrow: Your OC doesn't seem that extreme. What are your voltages? Perhaps your instability is due to something else. What are your temperatures? Do you have good case circulation? I run an E6750 at 3.6 on my P5N32-E right now in a case with horrible circulation (it neither sucks nor blows)... I just keep a close eye on that NB temperature (usually the "mobo" temperature).


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *We Gone* 







Thanks for your help so far ..Stable @ 3.4 ram 1520 FSB just under 800 4-4-4-12 T2...

Bumped to 850 this AM ....also bumped to mem Volts to 1.150

After reading for hours







I still don't know what has better performance on Ram Lower Timmings or higher speed????

On my son's rig (Same as mine but with a E6750 and 2g ram ATI 1650 128 card) we went from 4-4-4-12 T2 to 4-4-4-8 T2 @800 no other changes and scored the same #s on 3Dmark06? On mine every time I up the speed I show better #s

Thanks again for your help.

Steve

1.150 vdimm?


----------



## We Gone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
1.150 vdimm?


I'll check when I get home, but I have set this in the bios under mem volts.

Specs say 2.2 but I am trying to keep temps down and still stay stable.

Wife just called crash..at 3hrs may have to up the Mem volts.


----------



## We Gone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
We Gone: 3dm is not really a good RAM bench. If you don't mind shelling out $35, I (and probably everyone else in these boards) would recommend the Ultimate version of Everest (CLICK HERE). Under the "tools" section, you will find a RAM/FSB bench. This will answer your question about whether it is better to run slow and tight or fast and loose. Many people will tell you fast & loose is better (and they might be right), but only you can determine what is best for your system.

I tried to run the Everest (free Ver) and it blew out my CPU volts to over 2volts every time I started it. Did the same on my son's rig.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

vCore should never be higher than what you set in BIOS (unless it's on AUTO). Either something is very, very, VERY wrong or it's a sensor error.


----------



## orbiter

Quote:

anyone managed to get this going,

Just tried with all 4 stick and no go, just long beeps on startup.

3 sticks worked.

Anyone know what settings I need to tweek???

Thanks in advance
For me this one was a real trial and error test. I had to take out 1 stick of ram. Boot then tweak some of the bios settings. shut down. Stick the 4th stick back in and see if the system would boot. I think it took about 20 goes before I eventually got there









I tried upping the Ram voltage to 2.1V and even 2.2 but it didn't make any difference.

At present Ram voltage is 1.925v with four sticks but as said previously this board is very picky with its BIOS settings so the trial and error for me was the only way.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *We Gone* 
I'll check when I get home, but I have set this in the bios under mem volts.

Specs say 2.2 but I am trying to keep temps down and still stay stable.

Wife just called crash..at 3hrs may have to up the Mem volts.

I didn't think you could set less than 1.85 in BIOS. I could be wrong.


----------



## breader

Quote:



Originally Posted by *orbiter*


For me this one was a real trial and error test. I had to take out 1 stick of ram. Boot then tweak some of the bios settings. shut down. Stick the 4th stick back in and see if the system would boot. I think it took about 20 goes before I eventually got there









I tried upping the Ram voltage to 2.1V and even 2.2 but it didn't make any difference.

At present Ram voltage is 1.925v with four sticks but as said previously this board is very picky with its BIOS settings so the trial and error for me was the only way.


So it looks like im in for a bit of a rough ride.

And I am very new to all of this so I will have to teach myself at the same time.

Any tips would be appreciated.


----------



## McSterls

I've followed the guide, and I'm think I'm close to stability, the PC has frozen a few twice and each time I bump up the CPU voltage slightly. But I have a few questions. I'm using Everest Ultimate to report my temperatures and Voltages. I have my Core Voltage in my Bios set to 1.45v but Everest shows it as 1.38v, I tried smaller increases but the reflection in Everest was nominal - which is correct 1.38 or 1.45v?

Everest shows my CPU temp as 20 degrees C but the individual core temps are twice that about 40 C each at ideal. Why the difference. I would think the CPU temp should reflect the core temps?

And finally the overclocking guide says to set mt CPU VTT to 1.55 for maximum stability. now CPU-Z says core voltage 1.600v is this a reflection of the CPU core voltage or a rounded up VTT and is this safe??

Thanks,
McSterls


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Everest will show you actual vCore. It will be slightly lower than what you set in BIOS, then even lower when you stress the processor (this is known as vDroop). You will also notice that BIOS will report - through the hardware monitor - a lower vCore than what is set.

CPU temperature is taken by an analog sensor at the die, whereas core temperatures are digital temperatures taken internally within each core. In all cases, core temperature is by far the more important temperature. Variance of 20(c) between CPU and core temperature is not uncommon. Tjunction represents the maximum internal core temperature before thermal shutdown. I believe it's 100(c) for your chip just as it is for mine. A more realistic maximum for G0 processors would be 60-65 degrees, or 70-75 degrees for B3.

CPU-Z is completely inaccurate when it comes to vCore. Trust Everest.


----------



## McSterls

Thanks Dostoyevsky77.


----------



## We Gone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
I didn't think you could set less than 1.85 in BIOS. I could be wrong.


Sorry bad typing should have said 2.150.......


----------



## We Gone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
vCore should never be higher than what you set in BIOS (unless it's on AUTO). Either something is very, very, VERY wrong or it's a sensor error.


may have been a bug... But both ASUS probe & everest jummped up to just over 2V Has always stayed solid as read by probe as to what I set in bios. and this happened on 2 rigs...After I de-installed everest everything was ok again.







maybe a bad download from the web as was installed off the same jump-drive.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hmm... well, I think Sandra has a memory benchmark too, but it makes me sad that Everest didn't work.

CLICK ME for Sandra.

***EDIT: It is so cool they have OS and displays in our signature now!


----------



## McSterls

I'm still having the occasional PC freeze, I've bumped up my CPU voltage again so I'll see how this goes (now at 1.42). Should I try changing something else to help find stability?

Thanks,
McSterls


----------



## arjo_reich

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cognoscenti*


The NB on this board apparently can reach 100c !










Mine is running at 99C under minimal load and I'm flipping the fugg out about it as we speak. It's not cool, no pun intended, and I'm trying to figure out a solution that would work with my ThermalRight Ultra-120 Extreme mounted as such...the saddest thing is that while the NB is running at 99C all four cores of the Q6600 are reporting 22-24C...lol.

Can anyone tell me, definitively if a Tt Extreme Spirit II NB cooler will fit in the tight space between my Ultra-120 Extreme and my 8800 GTX card? All I need is one reference foto and I'll order one right this second, lol...

















* - btw, I know I need to tidy up the cable management but I have bigger problems at the moment.


----------



## We Gone

Dostoyevsky77

Thanks for all your help.... with out forums like this and the help of users like yourself...some of us (me for one) would be lost...


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Arjo Reich, I think you'll be alright. Take a look at my gallery (camera icon beneath the REP button in my mini profile). Look at the first picture, "Perspectives" where I have a Tuniq sideways. Also take a look later on in the gallery at "My Wife's System". You can see there's close clearance with a Zalman 9700, but no issues. See how, with the Tt oriented towards the first PCI-E slot, it is sort of offset? I was trying to find some TR120 pictures for you, but I forgot Robilar's photos are of a unmodded Striker. ***EDIT: Also take a look at "Towers" where the Tuniq is not sideways (I ended up pointing it sideways because of airflow in my case).

We Gone, it is very much my pleasure. When I was starting out, a lot of people helped me in the forums. I know how much a timely response can mean sometimes (especially when you can't POST and you think you smell sulfuric acid coming from your PSU!).


----------



## McSterls

arjo_reich-

My case is an Atec P-190 and looks very similar to yours, do you have a fan on the side door? When I added my second video card I upgraded to this case because it blows cool air onto the video cards and really lowered my temps. However, I'll tell you they were still too hot for my comfort, I've since installed water cooling on th CPU and both 8800GTXs and it has brought my rig down noticeably in temperature, I mean really cold about 35c idle and about 45c really pushing it. You may want to give water cooling some thought.

McSterls


----------



## arjo_reich

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Arjo Reich, I think you'll be alright. Take a look at my gallery (camera icon beneath the REP button in my mini profile).


Ironically I had a couple of your images tagged from a google search that turned up the images here...

http://bp0.blogger.com/_6LQ53ImDiWk/...h/CIMG5257.JPG


----------



## arjo_reich

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McSterls*


arjo_reich-

My case is an Atec P-190 and looks very similar to yours, do you have a fan on the side door? When I added my second video card I upgraded to this case because it blows cool air onto the video cards and really lowered my temps. However, I'll tell you they were still too hot for my comfort, I've since installed water cooling on th CPU and both 8800GTXs and it has brought my rig down noticeably in temperature, I mean really cold about 35c idle and about 45c really pushing it. You may want to give water cooling some thought.

McSterls


I have a SilverStone TJ09 case and it has mid-case venting but not a side-mounted fan, per sae...

Right now everything else is ice cold under minimal load, it's just the damned NB that's giving me troubles. Both the MOSFET and Southbridge heatsinks are cool to the touch, it's only the Northbridge that's burning hot. I only *just* got an OS on it last night after completing the build so I've not really given it a break-in period yet to do any kind of real analysis however...


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arjo_reich*


Ironically I had a couple of your images tagged from a google search that turned up the images here...

http://bp0.blogger.com/_6LQ53ImDiWk/...h/CIMG5257.JPG


Heh. Yeah. I blog about my mods, even though my readership is < 10 per day... I used to blog about other things, but those were... other times...

I still think you might be okay with the Spirit II, but 99(c) seems really high even considering your OC. I wonder if there might be some reporting error? What is your vNB? Even 1.55 shouldn't give you those temps, I don't think.


----------



## arjo_reich

lol, this is at all stock speeds. the only OC i did was set the voltage of my Crucial Ballistix DDR2-800 to it's manufacturer recommended 2.2v instead of the defaulted 1.85v from the DDR2 spec...

I'm going home in an hour from work and i'll install Everest and see what it reports and post that. So far, after an entire day of heavy researching the best explanation I can come up with is that these boards were designed to have a fan on the CPU HS pushing air down on it, which would in turn cool the Northbridge HS as well. Swap that out for a tower-styled HS and you can run into this issue.

Either that or it's a manufacturing error on some part. Could be as simple as no/poor thermal compound placement or as bad as a faulty component...

Since the OS has only been booted for about 3-5 hour tops since I got it installed last night, I haven't really had a chance to test it's stability at these temps but I have no inclination to do so either. I'm ordering the Tt Spirit Extreme II now and in the mean time I'm going to place some very specific directional air-flow (I have a 40x40mm *somewhere*) on the top of that HS and see if it doesn't help. If I don't get any positive results from that I'm going to really start to consider an RMA before installing the new chipset cooler. :shrug:

Keep in mind, my damn processor is reporting all cores at 23-25C at the same time as my NB is at 99C -- that just blows my mind.


----------



## stiv

hi there thanks for the great read,just a couple of questions,i have a q6600 running @3.0ghz with all voltages set manually,would i benifit that much by changing nb and sb to extreme spirit cooling,or would it be better to just get a new p35 or x38(x48) motherboard
to get the most out of my quad?
nb 1.26
sb 1.55
1.2 ht 1.26
cpu vtt 1.26
vdimm 2.1
cpu 1.26
all prime stable 24 hours


----------



## arjo_reich

FWIW, I just ordered...

2x Tt Spirit Extreme II
1x HR-09U-2 - ThermalRight's I/O Side MOSFET Heatsink
1x HR-09S-2 - ThermalRight's Up Side MOSFET Heatsink

(The type 2's fit the P5N32-E a lot better on a from manufacturer and various site reviews)

:shrug:
Until then, I'm going to be tweaking air-flow to see what kind of effect I can have.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Arjo Reich, if you haven't OC'ed anything yet, there must be a reporting error. 99(c) is insane. What is reading that???

Stiv, if you want the most out of a quad, you need to sacrifice the rest of your system. Do want awesome gaming? If so, you probably want to SLI, which means not caring where you take your CPU, but investing lots of money into two cutting-edge video cards. No Intel chipset will SLI for you, but no Nvidia chipset will take your quad where you want it. You must choose!


----------



## ShakyJake

Speaking of the issues of the NB temps...

I just built a system for a friend with this board and a Q6600. After downgrading the BIOS to 1203 I was able to get an OC to 3.0GHz. I bumped the vcore to 1.45V and left the north and south bridge volts as auto, VTT at 1.5V, etc. (all the stuff the guide in this thread suggests). The system was stable as far as I could tell. I played a few games at length as well as run Orthos, etc. without any issues.

Like everyone has said, the NB gets excessively hot. While the system was stable for me during my 2 days of testing, it has started to crash on my friend. It's to the point now where the system isn't even stable at stock speeds and will occasionally lock while in the BIOS setup. I am wondering if the NB cooked itself to death. The system has plenty of fans in it, but I believe the area he kept it in was semi-closed off (think it was in a desk cabinet but open in the front and back) and may have caused temps to rise a bit higher than they should. Regardless, at default NB/SB voltages and a case with 4 120MM fans in it one would think enough air flow would've been generated to keep it cool enough.

At this point I am thinking the board is faulty since we're pretty sure it's not the memory or video card (nothing else is installed in the system.)


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ShakyJake* 
Speaking of the issues of the NB temps...

I just built a system for a friend with this board and a Q6600. After downgrading the BIOS to 1203 I was able to get an OC to 3.0GHz. I bumped the vcore to 1.45V and left the north and south bridge volts as auto, VTT at 1.5V, etc. (all the stuff the guide in this thread suggests). The system was stable as far as I could tell. I played a few games at length as well as run Orthos, etc. without any issues.

Like everyone has said, the NB gets excessively hot. While the system was stable for me during my 2 days of testing, it has started to crash on my friend. It's to the point now where the system isn't even stable at stock speeds and will occasionally lock while in the BIOS setup. I am wondering if the NB cooked itself to death. The system has plenty of fans in it, but I believe the area he kept it in was semi-closed off (think it was in a desk cabinet but open in the front and back) and may have caused temps to rise a bit higher than they should. Regardless, at default NB/SB voltages and a case with 4 120MM fans in it one would think enough air flow would've been generated to keep it cool enough.

At this point I am thinking the board is faulty since we're pretty sure it's not the memory or video card (nothing else is installed in the system.)

It sounds as if something cooked.
For future reference, 1.45 is high for that clock, however, that is chip dependent.
It's best to set all the suggested voltages manually, do not use auto.


----------



## arjo_reich

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Arjo Reich, if you haven't OC'ed anything yet, there must be a reporting error. 99(c) is insane. What is reading that???


LOL... SpeedFan 4.33 although after closer inspection it looks like almost all the values were POS on it as well. :roll eyes: I purchased, downloaded and installed EVEREST Ultimate Edition and check it against that.

_(keep in mind that when I saw the speedfan numbers last night it was 1AM and i was tired as **** so I panicked shut everything down and passed out. This evening was the first time I had the system booted up again to really do any "real" research...)_

Still, it was a knee-jerk reaction, although I still can't figure out why SpeedFan is giving me such crap numbers...it seems to be fairly accurate on my workstation at the office. :shrug: Either way I feel like a bone-head, but here is a screenshot that should give you more information.










I spent the last hour trying to figure out *why* that number seems so outrageous and the best information I could discern was that it is reporting the value of the ACT7475 sensor - although after digging all through google and thousands of possible keywords I couldn't find anything on where on the P5N32-E m/b that sensor is located... AND my Northbridge *is* still running hot enough to burn me after only the slightest touch so I'm not _completely_ relieved by the more rational numbers from Everest...


----------



## WuNgUn

You might try getting the FSB higher and a lower multiplier to strap that NB down to a less intense timing/temp...
Some FSB setting really work the NB...
1700 X 7 maybe (3.0Ghz)? Make sure you drop the multiplier down before anything!
Run the same voltages as before...


----------



## arjo_reich

Speaking of which, does anyone know where the values for "Temperature #1", "Temperature #2" and "Temperature #3" are coming from out of Everest? The ambient temps in my office are between 19-22C at any given moment so i don't know where the -4 to -7C values are coming from...at least not from a purely forced-air cooled system, lol.


----------



## Litlratt

Personally, I wouldn't worry about the temp Speedfan is reporting.
Everest numbers look good.
NB runs hot even at stock speeds. Get some air on it.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arjo_reich*


Speaking of which, does anyone know where the values for "Temperature #1", "Temperature #2" and "Temperature #3" are coming from out of Everest? The ambient temps in my office are between 19-22C at any given moment so i don't know where the -4 to -7C values are coming from...at least not from a purely forced-air cooled system, lol.


I've always thought the utterly ridiculous numbers were a result of the app trying to read from something that wasn't there.


----------



## We Gone

Stable over 9 Hrs..Hope This pic works


----------



## breader

Quote:


Originally Posted by *orbiter* 
I tried upping the Ram voltage to 2.1V and even 2.2 but it didn't make any difference.

At present Ram voltage is 1.925v with four sticks but as said previously this board is very picky with its BIOS settings so the trial and error for me was the only way.

How can I set the ram (memory) voltage to 1.925v, I don't seem to have that option?. Am I doing something wrong already?


----------



## GoneTomorrow

What BIOS is everyone using with this board these days? I'm using 1205.


----------



## We Gone

Running 1203


----------



## CpLRusty

I think the general consensus is that 1203 is the best BIOS for overclocking. But if you have a Razor keyboard or other device, 1205 corrects how the board interacts with those devices.

I personally am running and happy with 1203.


----------



## CpLRusty

Question: Do you gain any stability or lower temps by a worthwhile amount on this board if you replace the thermal compound under the NB, SB, and mosfets ?

If it's worth doing... is AS5 ok to use for this purpose or should you use a differnt formulation of compound such as Arctic Ceramique ?


----------



## bcampbell2858

Very good question Rusty...I'm interested in knowing this too. Anyone?

-Brian


----------



## Karzy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *breader*


anyone managed to get this going,

Just tried with all 4 stick and no go, just long beeps on startup.

3 sticks worked.

Anyone know what settings I need to tweek???

Thanks in advance


what are your bios? i had 4 gigs in before i got 1203, and windows ran about as stable as charles manson, download those bios if you dont got em, then try.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CpLRusty*


Question: Do you gain any stability or lower temps by a worthwhile amount on this board if you replace the thermal compound under the NB, SB, and mosfets ?

If it's worth doing... is AS5 ok to use for this purpose or should you use a differnt formulation of compound such as Arctic Ceramique ?


I think it would certainly help. Obviously not better than aftermarket cooling, but it must be an improvement. The "thermal" **** ASUS uses looks totally useless. (Take a look at Robilar's photo below). AS5 would be my choice too. Make sure you have some high purity alcohol on-hand to rub off that nasty gray ****.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
I think it would certainly help. Obviously not better than aftermarket cooling, but it must be an improvement. The "thermal" **** ASUS uses looks totally useless. (Take a look at Robilar's photo below). AS5 would be my choice too. Make sure you have some high purity alcohol on-hand to rub off that nasty gray ****.

As AS5 is conductive, be considerate of the amount you use on the chipsets. I use Ceramique for those.


----------



## CpLRusty

I appreciate the comments, thanks. My local parts shop has Ceramique.


----------



## thedom

Hi ppl, just wondered if you could help me out, Im having a problem getting this mobo to go to 3 GHz stable with a q6600 G0 stepping. I have followed the guide and have set all the voltages manually. It posts, starts to load windows, then reboots itself.

At the moment I have it stable at 2.8 and have managed to get my Ram unlinked at 800 with timings of 4-4-4-12 1T

All voltages are concurrent with the guide

I have the arctic cooling freezer Pro heatsink
the ram i have is Corsair TWIN2X2048-6400C4DHX 2GB
I have a thermaltake toughpower 750W power supply
1 sata2 500 Gig HD
1 250 gig IDE HD
1 IDE DVD burner
creative X-FI music
Antec nine hundred case
PNY 8800 GT

It runs stable as a stable thing at 2.8, and i could prolly get it a little higher, but it seems that as soon as I go to 3GHz or above, the machine reboots.

Im on bios 1203 as every other bios I have tried wouldnt even post at anything other than the CPU's defaults

It will post at above 2.8 and I have tried upping the vcore, i have tried loosening the timings of the ram, even setting the timings to auto and it just does the same thing. Sometimes it gets into windows and runs for about 10 mins before It reboots itself.

Any suggestions would be apreciated as Iv been through this entire thread trying out other ppls cures to no avail.


----------



## stiv

thedom
try running your ram @667 5-5-5-15 2t,and fsb @1333,also have u got the correct voltage for ram.
also to rule out your ram holding you back run memtest to see if your getting errors


----------



## thedom

tried that, jsut does the same thing, gets to the windows boot screen then reboots.


----------



## thedom

also, ran memtest for an hour at the 4-4-4-12 1t @2.8GHz and had no errors

ram states 2.1V for the 4-4-4-12 timings and thats wot its set at

have also noted that i can get into windows if I set the CPU VTT Voltage to auto instead of the1.55V max as stated in the guide. This is when it runs for about 10 mins before crashing out


----------



## stiv

is your ram on the qvl for this board,with my corsair xms6400c4 i could not run 2x1gb in dual channel lots of bsod,had to run ram in single channel until i got another 2x1gb.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thedom* 
Hi ppl, just wondered if you could help me out, Im having a problem getting this mobo to go to 3 GHz stable with a q6600 G0 stepping. I have followed the guide and have set all the voltages manually. It posts, starts to load windows, then reboots itself.

At the moment I have it stable at 2.8 and have managed to get my Ram unlinked at 800 with timings of 4-4-4-12 1T

All voltages are concurrent with the guide

I have the arctic cooling freezer Pro heatsink
the ram i have is Corsair TWIN2X2048-6400C4DHX 2GB
I have a thermaltake toughpower 750W power supply
1 sata2 500 Gig HD
1 250 gig IDE HD
1 IDE DVD burner
creative X-FI music
Antec nine hundred case
PNY 8800 GT

It runs stable as a stable thing at 2.8, and i could prolly get it a little higher, but it seems that as soon as I go to 3GHz or above, the machine reboots.

Im on bios 1203 as every other bios I have tried wouldnt even post at anything other than the CPU's defaults

It will post at above 2.8 and I have tried upping the vcore, i have tried loosening the timings of the ram, even setting the timings to auto and it just does the same thing. Sometimes it gets into windows and runs for about 10 mins before It reboots itself.

Any suggestions would be apreciated as Iv been through this entire thread trying out other ppls cures to no avail.

This worked for me: Try setting the timings to auto (bear with me) and the divider to 5:4. That worked for me and it automatically set the timings to 4-4-4-4-12 1T

Also, if you noticed from the guide, you need to cool the NB/SB to get high OCs. I can only OC about 400mhz safely without chipset cooling.


----------



## thedom

good point about the ram stiv, it looks to be on there and states that you can only run 1 stick in single channel mode or 4 sticks in dual channel mode., so I took one stick out and it still would not get past the windows boot logo. Have still to try 1 stick with the cpu vtt voltage turned down to see if it lets me into windows.


----------



## WuNgUn

I fianlly got 1166Mhz outta my RAM, now that I'm liquid cooled...
Previously, I was lucky to get 900Mhz (relaxed timing) with air cooled, and even then it was very unstable...
Bottom line...the NB cooling on these boards SUCKS!


----------



## stiv

thedom,what bios are you using 1203 is best for quads . link to bios on first page of thread.


----------



## thedom

using 1203 m8, tried everything i can think of, can get into windows but reboots after about 10 mins if not before, temps are all fine, on the qvl list it says that the ram i have I can use 1 stick or 4 sticks, so i tried 1 stick and it just does the same, thing i ahve noticed is that if I set the CPU VTT voltage to 1.55, it wont even get into windows, if I lower the CPU VTT voltage it lets me into windows for about 10 mins and the start of the guide states that they have never seen that voltage causing any problems.

Im absolutely stumped at the moment, maybe you guys could answer this for me and I might be happy settling for 2.8.

What will give me the most gain in gaming?

2.8 GHz with ram at 800MHz 4-4-4-12 1T or
3GHz with most likely looser ram timings ?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Thedom, can you please fill in your specs HERE?

Also, where are all your voltages and temperatures? An Everest screenie like this one will suffice:


----------



## thedom

ok , heres whats on everest, Iv lowered the ram voltage from 2.1V to 1.85V and relaxed the timings to the official JEDEC standard of the ram although the ram is rated for 2.1V at 4-4-4-12

Have also lowered the CPU VTT voltage to 1.2V as the system wont even get into windows at anything higher than 1.55V at this FSB

running now at 333*9 and seems a lot more stable than it has been previously, need to do some more testing and see what happens, I'm now thinking that the rated 2.1V is maybe a little bit too high if thats possible?


----------



## thedom

UPDATE : I have been running stable now at the above for over an hour of runnign prime95 set to torture test all 4 cores. the max temp so far was 49 degrees but that seems to have settled down to 47 now.

How long should I run this before I claim stability?

Should I also run super Pi as well to test it out?

have noticed that my motherboard seems to overvolt my ram, could this be a possible explanation for all the crashes?

Have the ram running at 4-4-4-12 1t again and all seems to be good

Iv set the ram down to 1.85V instead of the rated 2.1V for this speed and also changed the cpu vtt to 1.2V and everythingn seems to be stable now.

Gonna keep testing and make sure everything is holding ok throughout the day

core temps are idling at :

33
34
32
31

and under 100% load went up to 57 degrees max

are these the kind of temps i should be looking for?


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thedom*


UPDATE : I have been running stable now at the above for over an hour of runnign prime95 set to torture test all 4 cores. the max temp so far was 49 degrees but that seems to have settled down to 47 now.

How long should I run this before I claim stability?

Should I also run super Pi as well to test it out?

have noticed that my motherboard seems to overvolt my ram, could this be a possible explanation for all the crashes?

Have the ram running at 4-4-4-12 1t again and all seems to be good

Iv set the ram down to 1.85V instead of the rated 2.1V for this speed and also changed the cpu vtt to 1.2V and everythingn seems to be stable now.

Gonna keep testing and make sure everything is holding ok throughout the day

core temps are idling at :

33
34
32
31

and under 100% load went up to 57 degrees max

are these the kind of temps i should be looking for?


Thedom, I miss some aftermarket cooler on your Nb/Sb this is why your pc crashes due to heat!
Couple Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II wood do the trick and easy to install.
What will give me the most gain in gaming?: fsb1:1mem 4-4-4-5/8/12 T1 800Hz is for my the best settings!
Raising mem MHz to 950 a loss of 400 points in 3DM06


----------



## LKVTS

Sorry if this is not the right thread to post this in.

I've encounterd a problem...

My q6600 is clocked @ 3ghz (fsb 1334 i get in to faster strap than at 1333) vcore is 1.30

when i run the 3 different tests in prime for like 7 hours, NO problem.
however, i played crysis some hours and left the pc running, and when i got back some 2 hours later, the pc had frozen...(also seen it in Jericho one time)
i could actually create the problem over and over again, but the time before the freeze was not the same. some times 2 hours, others maybe 7 hours.

Could it be that a game that only eats like 30-40% of my cpu power, can cause an error ?

Now i tried to raise my vcore to ~1.31, and so far crysis has been running for 2 hours with no crash.

note...my 8800 ultra has passed ATI tool artifact scan for 10 hours.


----------



## slytown

LKVTS, which test are you running in Orthos?

Wungun, the chipest is actually pretty nice. Two heatpipes are better than none. The only problem is the chipset needs more voltage past 400FSB but can't handle it. For those with unlocked multis, it's about the best overclocker out there. Only flaw as far as the chipset is concerned is it likes high multis and low FSB. If you are locked, it's a $20 fix for an active NB cooler.


----------



## LKVTS

I was using prime95, small FFT, large and the blend test...


----------



## LKVTS

7 hours, and crysis hangs again....strange.
Would just like a stable system, wonder why the pc freezes


----------



## slytown

Try and update or use a different driver. Did your set-up work without an overclock?


----------



## arjo_reich

just as an update to when I thought my northbridge was running over 97(C) at stock voltage/speeds - got my hands on an IR Thermometer and measured it. After the PC being idle all day long it read 202(F)... I have the two Tt Spirit Extreme II to put on the north/southbridge and now I'm just waiting on the Arctic Ceramique to get here in the mail.

I have some Arctic Silver 5 that I could use but I'd probably sleep better at night - personal preference - knowing that the Ceramique is less electrically conductive than the AS5... :shrug:

Still, whoa, that's hot...


----------



## GoneTomorrow

My OC on the CPU is running decently cool (28c idle, 43c load), ran 3DMark06 several times, and I gamed playing Oblivion, Crysis and COD4 for at least two hours without any hangs or other issue.

However I ran Orthos, which I've never used before, so I'm unfamiliar as to what the errors mean (see image). The test halts usually within 2 minutes. Can anyone help me determine what the problem is? I posted my cpu-z as well.

The error message says to consult the stress.txt file, but I can't find it, not even searching with Explorer.

Misc. info: CPU voltage - 1.4, RAM 2.2 (rated) [email protected] MHz, 1.2V HT - 1.30, NB 1.4, SB 1.55, CPU VTT 1.55, BIOS - 1205

I used the Blend, Small FFT, Large in-place FFT and gromacs all with the same result.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Maybe good news or maybe nothing, but if you're wondering what's going on with Yorkfield (45nm quads) on this board, check THIS out.


----------



## LKVTS

UPDATE...well, it was my 8800 ULTRA that caused the problem. i decreased the GPU and shader clock from 648 and 1620, to 621 and 1566 = NO hang at all....

So guys, dont trust the artifact scan in atitool regarding stability........(my card is not an OC edition, but it's still a bit OC'ed)


----------



## WuNgUn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LKVTS* 
UPDATE...well, it was my 8800 ULTRA that caused the problem. i decreased the GPU and shader clock from 648 and 1620, to 621 and 1566 = NO hang at all....

So guys, dont trust the artifact scan in atitool regarding stability........(my card is not an OC edition, but it's still a bit OC'ed)

That's no news to me...I ran ATITool for 8 minutes fine...fire up Crysis, and BOOM!! Lockup in the first minute...
ATITool is useless for testing stability...


----------



## Benny99

Hey Gone Tomorrow

I had the same problem on my Corsair 6400Pro

That same Error From orthos and Prime. Now i switched them to another board no errors.

I think its a compatibility issue. Im now using Ballistix Pc6400 Never ever get that error from orthos or Prime. The Ballistix are at 1107 Mhz at 5-5-5-15 and stable.

I would try a different set of ram. Also Use the 1203 Bios its the best for Overclocking.

Oh ure using 4X1GB the P5N32-E is finky with 4gbs also try using 2gb of ram see if u get same error

1 stick could be bad try single it out.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*


Hey Gone Tomorrow

I had the same problem on my Corsair 6400Pro

That same Error From orthos and Prime. Now i switched them to another board no errors.

I think its a compatibility issue. Im now using Ballistix Pc6400 Never ever get that error from orthos or Prime. The Ballistix are at 1107 Mhz at 5-5-5-15 and stable.

I would try a different set of ram. Also Use the 1203 Bios its the best for Overclocking.

Oh ure using 4X1GB the P5N32-E is finky with 4gbs also try using 2gb of ram see if u get same error

1 stick could be bad try single it out.



Thanks for the help (rep +). Everyone raves about Crucial so I may break down and try it.

Asus no longer has the 1203 BIOS on their site. Does anybody know if it's hosted elsewhere?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Here is the master FTP where you can find all the BIOS revisions:

LINKY

Ballistix are nice, but there's nothing wrong with your Patriots. 4-4-4-8 is tight (like a tiger). What speed are you running them at?


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Here is the master FTP where you can find all the BIOS revisions:

LINKY

Ballistix are nice, but there's nothing wrong with your Patriots. 4-4-4-8 is tight (like a tiger). What speed are you running them at?

Thanks for the link (rep+). I'm running them at 800 Mhz. They won't really do faster than that.

I agree that the Patriot memory is very solid, but I can't get to run at 1T CR plus it might be responsible for the aforementioned Orthos errors.

I'm always a stickler about having memory for my board that is on the QVL, which the Crucial is (and the Patriot isn't). For some reason I thought the Patriot was.

Damn...wish I had the rep. to sell my Patriot here. I won't violate theTOS and link, but if you were to look on eBay in the near future for Patriot Extreme Performance Memory, you might find it there for a good price.


----------



## Benny99

First thing id do is try the 1203 bios before u sell ure ram

what bios are u running atm ?


----------



## trueg50

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow* 
Thanks for the link (rep+). I'm running them at 800 Mhz. They won't really do faster than that.

I agree that the Patriot memory is very solid, but I can't get to run at 1T CR plus it might be responsible for the aforementioned Orthos errors.

I'm always a stickler about having memory for my board that is on the QVL, which the Crucial is (and the Patriot isn't). For some reason I thought the Patriot was.

Damn...wish I had the rep. to sell my Patriot here. I won't violate theTOS and link, but if you were to look on eBay in the near future for Patriot Extreme Performance Memory, you might find it there for a good price.









Why are you worrying so much? I really don't know any RAM that is rated for 1T. You have to make it run that.

Raise your timings and kick it to 2T then stress test, eliminate any factors possible. Then put it to 1T and lower the timings.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Benny99* 
First thing id do is try the 1203 bios before u sell ure ram

what bios are u running atm ?

1205. It works well enough that I would rather not flash the BIOS if I have to. If different memory has the same issues then I will flash.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trueg50* 
Why are you worrying so much? I really don't know any RAM that is rated for 1T. You have to make it run that.

Raise your timings and kick it to 2T then stress test, eliminate any factors possible. Then put it to 1T and lower the timings.

It won't set to 1T in under any circumstance. Won't even POST.


----------



## arjo_reich

*BTW:*

I was chatting with one of the guys over at lavalys.com and got them to release a build that reports the MCP (southbridge) diode temperature sensor for the MCP55XE (P5N32-E 680i & Asus Striker Extreme) chipset...

The updated beta build can be found on their servers here...
http://www.lavalys.com/beta/everestu...ks4hdnk0fc.zip
_(note, I don't know if the forum has policies against deeplinking...)_

You'll have to go into your Preferences and enable that sensor to see it on your displays (Sidebar, OSD, etc.) but it will show up now. I just wanted to see it considering the trouble I had to go through to replace the stock chipset and mosfet coolers on the board last night.

:shrug:
Hope someone else out there will find it useful.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arjo_reich*


*BTW:*

I was chatting with one of the guys over at lavalys.com and got them to release a build that reports the MCP (southbridge) diode temperature sensor for the MCP55XE (P5N32-E 680i & Asus Striker Extreme) chipset...

The updated beta build can be found on their servers here...
http://www.lavalys.com/beta/everestu...ks4hdnk0fc.zip
_(note, I don't know if the forum has policies against deeplinking...)_

You'll have to go into your Preferences and enable that sensor to see it on your displays (Sidebar, OSD, etc.) but it will show up now. I just wanted to see it considering the trouble I had to go through to replace the stock chipset and mosfet coolers on the board last night.

:shrug:
Hope someone else out there will find it useful.



Big time rep+ for that one.









This now begs the question: should 88C for the SB be worrisome?


----------



## arjo_reich

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow*


This now begs the question: should 88C for the SB be worrisome?


I wish I had some comparative data to relate to it, honestly but I only got a copy of the new build this morning and I had just replaced my stock chipset and MOSFET coolers last night, so all I have is "post-upgrade" values...

My MCP (southbridge) reports 48C idle after I placed a Tt Spirit Extreme II on it last night. LOL, had to mod the stock cooler on the 8800 GTX to make it fit, too... ;-p

(thumbnails link to larger images)


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arjo_reich*


I wish I had some comparative data to relate to it, honestly but I only got a copy of the new build this morning and I had just replaced my stock chipset and MOSFET coolers last night, so all I have is "post-upgrade" values...

My MCP (southbridge) reports 48C idle after I placed a Tt Spirit Extreme II on it last night. LOL, had to mod the stock cooler on the 8800 GTX to make it fit, too... ;-p

(thumbnails link to larger images)



Um, oh... well, my coolers are in the mail so I will rectify that.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arjo_reich* 
I wish I had some comparative data to relate to it, honestly but I only got a copy of the new build this morning and I had just replaced my stock chipset and MOSFET coolers last night, so all I have is "post-upgrade" values...

My MCP (southbridge) reports 48C idle after I placed a Tt Spirit Extreme II on it last night. LOL, had to mod the stock cooler on the 8800 GTX to make it fit, too... ;-p

(thumbnails link to larger images)


What MOSFET coolers did you get? I know the chipset can get hot, but I didn't know the MOSFETs were something to worry about.


----------



## bundlebr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arjo_reich* 
*BTW:*

The updated beta build can be found on their servers here...
http://www.lavalys.com/beta/everestu...ks4hdnk0fc.zip
_(note, I don't know if the forum has policies against deeplinking...)_

.

Arjo_reich, the link doesn't seem to work







If you already got it, can you share?


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bundlebr* 
Arjo_reich, the link doesn't seem to work







If you already got it, can you share?









It works, but it might not prompt you first. I thought it was dead too, but then I noticed the file in my DL folder!

EDIT: I attached the ZIP to this in case it doesn't in fact work


----------



## bundlebr

GoneTomorrow,

Thanks, got it from your link!









Rep+!


----------



## arjo_reich

I had started to say that I wasn't sure how these forums or that company's site would react to deeplinking but most have forgot to actually _type it out_ lol... either way, glad someone snagged it as a link.

I also can't vouch for whether or not it will work with trial-editions either as I have a paid version...


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arjo_reich* 
I had started to say that I wasn't sure how these forums or that company's site would react to deeplinking but most have forgot to actually _type it out_ lol... either way, glad someone snagged it as a link.

I also can't vouch for whether or not it will work with trial-editions either as I have a paid version...

You can see the MCP temp. in the trial edition, but the other usual things (stock CPU speed, 12v rail, etc.) aren't accessible.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow*


Thanks for the link (rep+). I'm running them at 800 Mhz. They won't really do faster than that.

I agree that the Patriot memory is very solid, but I can't get to run at 1T CR plus it might be responsible for the aforementioned Orthos errors.

I'm always a stickler about having memory for my board that is on the QVL, which the Crucial is (and the Patriot isn't). For some reason I thought the Patriot was.

Damn...wish I had the rep. to sell my Patriot here. I won't violate theTOS and link, but if you were to look on eBay in the near future for Patriot Extreme Performance Memory, you might find it there for a good price.










Hey. The QVL doesn't mean anything. It only means the FEW kits ASUS decided to explicitly test. If you look at Patriot's website, I'm almost certain you will see that they have tested this RAM on the P5N32-E. Incidentally, I can't even get my Ballistix to run at CR1 at 800MHz. You have good timings at 800MHz. If you open up the timings, you can probably get some high clocks out of them. Is your memory PC2-6400 or 8500?

***EDIT: ArjoReich, I had to do the same thing to my GTX when I has the stock cooler. I'd attach a photo, but it was a long time ago before I had cable management, so I'm ashamed!!!


----------



## arjo_reich

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow*


What MOSFET coolers did you get? I know the chipset can get hot, but I didn't know the MOSFETs were something to worry about.


ThermalRight HR-09S (Type II) and HR-09U (Type II) MOSFET coolers
One of them has an offset, which allows it to be far enough away from your cpu cooler, although with the Ultra-120 eXtreme it was still a rather tight fit.

The MOSFETs (Metalâ€"Oxideâ€"Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistor) get really hot because they have a great amount of power flowing through them. To quote wikipedia (which is reasonably accurate in this case)....

Quote:



*Heat production*

The ever-increasing density of MOSFETs on an integrated circuit is creating problems of substantial localized heat generation that can impair circuit operation. Circuits operate slower at high temperatures, and have reduced reliability and shorter lifetimes. Heat sinks and other cooling methods are now required for many integrated circuits including microprocessors.

Power MOSFETs are at risk of thermal runaway. As their on-state resistance rises with temperature, if the load is approximately a constant-current load then the power loss rises correspondingly, generating further heat. When the heatsink is not able to keep the temperature low enough, the junction temperature may rise quickly and uncontrollably, resulting in destruction of the device.


----------



## arjo_reich

I should add, specifically in my case, when I decided to use a tower-style cpu-cooler (ThermalRight Ultra-120 eXtreme) instead of the stock down-blowing oem heatsink-fan combo I eliminated a source of fresh-air exchange over the stock northbridge and mosfet heatsinks.

Using a fan-powered spirit extreme II over the northbridge and use of the double-piped tower-styled heatsinks over the MOSFETs bring the cooling devices on these pieces back into a fresh-air supply one way or another... ;-p

Here's a pre-upgrade picture to give you a better idea. The two top-mounted 120mm fans are blowing intake which is caught by the ultra-120's fan and pushed directly into chassis exhaust 120mm fan. The MOSFETs and Northbrige were suffering in a "dead pocket" of air.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow*


What MOSFET coolers did you get? I know the chipset can get hot, but I didn't know the MOSFETs were something to worry about.


the swiftech mc21 and the thermalright are both excellent


----------



## marky07

Hi guys, I asked this once before so maybe my problem is unique.
I have 2 SATA drives & 2 IDE drives. SMART enabled on mobo but Everest only shows SMART info & temp for the IDE drives. The SATA drives are not RAID configured and are plugged in seperately to the blue slots on the side of mobo.
My previous board, ASUS P5B Deluxe WIFI reported all 4 drives OK.
Could this be an Nvidia issue as previous board was Intel?
Thanks in advance.
Great news about being able to see South Bridge temp now 
Regards to all & special thanks to Robilar for starting this fantastic thread.


----------



## teknomedic

First post...

this seems like a good thread to ask this question...

I'm running the P5N32-E SLI... I just got an Intel E8400... I'm not a big overclocker by any means, but I'd like to reach for around the 4Ghz mark with this one.

I only have stock cooling right now and am just wondering what would be a good or great aircooling CPU heatsink/fan that will fit onto this mainboard without doing any mods like removing the heatpipes that wrap around the CPU socket?

Cooling is important.. but so is being quiet. I haven't bought a cooler yet because I just don't know what will fit, be quiet and cool well.... also prefer to keep the price as low as possible (below $50 for the HS/F each as I'll be buying 3 of them.)

Thanks for any tips,
TK.


----------



## hereonyourown

Quote:


Originally Posted by *teknomedic* 
First post...

this seems like a good thread to ask this question...

I'm running the P5N32-E SLI... I just got an Intel E8400... I'm not a big overclocker by any means, but I'd like to reach for around the 4Ghz mark with this one.

I only have stock cooling right now and am just wondering what would be a good or great aircooling CPU heatsink/fan that will fit onto this mainboard without doing any mods like removing the heatpipes that wrap around the CPU socket?

Cooling is important.. but so is being quiet. I haven't bought a cooler yet because I just don't know what will fit, be quiet and cool well.... also prefer to keep the price as low as possible (below $50 for the HS/F each as I'll be buying 3 of them.)

Thanks for any tips,
TK.

Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro


----------



## teknomedic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hereonyourown* 
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro 


Thanks... looks good. I know this will sound very noob, and maybe this only goes on one way... but what direction should I put the fan? lol....

should the fan be closer to the rear, front, graphics or power supply?

EDIT... also, how far over the "top" edge of the mobo with this extend?... I only have a mid-tower case with PSU sitting above the CPU/mobo when upright.

Thanks again!

-----double edit.....

Never mind I guess... I found someone with some pics.. I was thinking wrong about the overhang... and it looks like they put the fan closer to the front of the case.

I'll still take opinions though... but I think it's time to order these.


----------



## We Gone

You can mount it up or to the rear&#8230; I have mine facing to the rear so the heat goes out the rear fan.


----------



## teknomedic

Thanks for the great picture!! It's very much appreciated... I just placed an order for 3 of them (as I have 3 PCs running the P5N32-E SLI







...I'm not rich, just found some really, really good deals.







)


----------



## McSterls

I had my computer running with the 1203 BIOS at 3.2 Ghz, but because of getting fed up with the Razer mouse issue I switched to 1302 and settled for 2.96Ghz.... I'm thinking about going back to 1203 as I'd rather have the extra speed. BUT I've got one problem and I think it's voltage related so any help would be great. Using 1203 at 3.2 sometimes my PC would just sieze, and at idle too - no load what so ever. What causes this? I'd like to try to fix it for stability before I go back. I changed the VTT to 1.55 at specified in the guide and I moved around the VCORE to 1.46 in the BIOS but reported lower in EVEREST, and I couldn't get it to stay stable. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow* 
Thanks for the link (rep+). I'm running them at 800 Mhz. They won't really do faster than that.

I agree that the Patriot memory is very solid, but I can't get to run at 1T CR plus it might be responsible for the aforementioned Orthos errors.

I'm always a stickler about having memory for my board that is on the QVL, which the Crucial is (and the Patriot isn't). For some reason I thought the Patriot was.

Damn...wish I had the rep. to sell my Patriot here. I won't violate theTOS and link, but if you were to look on eBay in the near future for Patriot Extreme Performance Memory, you might find it there for a good price.









If you're still looking to sell these, AnAndTech forums allow trading without REP. Link to your post so we can help bump it.


----------



## We Gone

I know you guys sure helped me..would never had made it with out ya...

Not sure if he is posting in the right areas..I just don't know a lot...Yet..









http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...oard-easy.html

Steve


----------



## trueg50

Quote:



Originally Posted by *We Gone*


I know you guys sure helped me..would never had made it with out ya...

Not sure if he is posting in the right areas..I just don't know a lot...Yet..









http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...oard-easy.html

Steve



He is using the P5N32-E deluxe, different chipset, very different board, sorry.

The P5N and P5N32-e both use the 6 series chipset (650i and 680i respectively).

Would folks be willing to post their voltages, their "read" voltages (via everest, BIOS etc.) and maybe their set ones?

I got my board back from RMA, and just cannot stabilize it for the life of me.


----------



## We Gone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trueg50*


He is using the P5N32-E deluxe, different chipset, very different board, sorry.

The P5N and P5N32-e both use the 6 series chipset (650i and 680i respectively).

Would folks be willing to post their voltages, their "read" voltages (via everest, BIOS etc.) and maybe their set ones?

I got my board back from RMA, and just cannot stabilize it for the life of me.


Did not know that....

My Voltages ...set in Bios.

Over Clock Specs..

CPUVtt 1.45v..
Mem 2.20v..
VCore 1.375v..
SB 1.50v..
NB 1.40v..
VHT 1.25v (auto)..


----------



## McSterls

Thanks guys.

I'm going to remove my heatpipes and mosfet coolers this week, I bought the Spirit IIs and the Mosfet replacements, how hard are the heatpipes to pull? I see little pushpin type things holding them on, do I need to remove the motherboard to get these off or can I do this with the board in the case and a pair of pliers?

McSterls


----------



## trueg50

Yes, you will have to pull the mother board to get the clips off.

Simply take a small jewelers pliers (just really small needle nose pliers) pinch the tabs, and push it through gently. I usually just take my finger nails and use those to pinch the tabs in and apply slight pressure, due to the strings on the other side of the board, it pretty much pulls its self though.


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McSterls*


Thanks guys.

I'm going to remove my heatpipes and mosfet coolers this week, I bought the Spirit IIs and the Mosfet replacements, how hard are the heatpipes to pull? I see little pushpin type things holding them on, do I need to remove the motherboard to get these off or can I do this with the board in the case and a pair of pliers?

McSterls


I used a big nail clipper to clip black pins of front/back very easy to pull out! 
A tip, use the upside down technique ( Littleratt â„¢) when you install the Spirit II this way youâ€™re two GTX will fit like glove!
Not hard to, only you little cracking noise Nb/Sb because the thermal past is dryed out.
The one on left is Littlerattâ„¢ upside down technique.


----------



## McSterls

I'm currently running PC6400 RAM, This weekend I'm swapping out NB/SB cooolers and going back to 1203 BIOS. I think that I could run faster and better with differnt RAM, I've been looking at peopls sigs and I'm just confused.

what's the best RAM I could get to help with my OC?
Am I limited to DDR2-800 like the board is rated? I see other people with other speeds?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.


----------



## nobody2000

Sorry but I just need to know 1 answer but please send your answer clear with proof (photo or official resource )

I need to know exactly what is the south bridge chipset model of the following product :

1.Asus P5N32-E sli
2.Asus P5N32-E Sli Plus

If anybody can provide me a photo that would be the best.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Well, I have no photos & assuming my word of honor will not suffice, here is the information you're looking for:

SOURCE

... [For the P5N32-E PLUS,] they took the recently introduced 650i SLI SPP (C55) and paired it with the 570 SLI MCP (MCP55) utilized in the AMD 570/590 SLI product lines. ASUS called this innovative melding of an Intel SPP and AMD MCP based chipsets their Dual x16 Chipset with HybridUp Technology. Whatever you want to call it, we know it just flat out works and does so for around $185 as you will see in our test results shortly.

Before we get to our initial performance results and discussion of the ASUS's P5N32-E SLI Plus hybrid board design we need to first explain the differences between it and the 680i/680i LT motherboards. In an interesting turn of events we find the recently introduced 680i LT SLI chipset also utilizing the nForce 570 SLI MCP with the new/revised 680i LT SPP while the 680i SLI chipset utilizes the nForce 590 SLI MCP and 680i SLI MCP.


----------



## nobody2000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Well, I have no photos & assuming my word of honor will not suffice, here is the information you're looking for:

SOURCE

... [For the P5N32-E PLUS,] they took the recently introduced 650i SLI SPP (C55) and paired it with the 570 SLI MCP (MCP55) utilized in the AMD 570/590 SLI product lines. ASUS called this innovative melding of an Intel SPP and AMD MCP based chipsets their Dual x16 Chipset with HybridUp Technology. Whatever you want to call it, we know it just flat out works and does so for around $185 as you will see in our test results shortly.

Before we get to our initial performance results and discussion of the ASUS's P5N32-E SLI Plus hybrid board design we need to first explain the differences between it and the 680i/680i LT motherboards. In an interesting turn of events we find the recently introduced 680i LT SLI chipset also utilizing the nForce 570 SLI MCP with the new/revised 680i LT SPP while the 680i SLI chipset utilizes the nForce 590 SLI MCP and 680i SLI MCP.



Thanks for your fast answer.can you provide me the information about South bridge chipset of P5N32-e sli too ?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

As I said,

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


... while the 680i SLI chipset utilizes the nForce 590 SLI MCP and 680i SLI MCP.


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McSterls*


I'm currently running PC6400 RAM, This weekend I'm swapping out NB/SB cooolers and going back to 1203 BIOS. I think that I could run faster and better with differnt RAM, I've been looking at peopls sigs and I'm just confused.

what's the best RAM I could get to help with my OC?
Am I limited to DDR2-800 like the board is rated? I see other people with other speeds?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.


OCZ DDR2 PC8500 2048MB KIT, Nvidia SLI- Ready Edition.( mine choice, great mem setting and price, looks good to







)

Corsair Dominator TWIN2X8500C5DF 2048MB, DDR2,2x1GB(KIT),DHX,E.P.P, with FAN ore no fan.

OCZ DDR2 PC8500 2048MB KIT, Reaper HPC, 2x1024MB, Heat Pipe, E.P.P

the Lower the spd the better mem settings you will get, check mine cpu 3.6 9x400fsb mem 800 4-4-4-5 1:1 is still the best way.


----------



## McSterls

Thanks Anubis, Sold me on the OCZ DDR2 PC8500, just ordered them. When overclocking did you set yours as linked or unlinked. I see yours are set to 800 is this linked? Do I need to enable the SLI settings for RAM or should I set things manually.

Thanks,
McSterls


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

On this board, you should always run UNLINKED, even if you want to run at a certain ratio. Put the clock speed values in yourself. You'll notice the actual value (in gray) will "snap" to the nearest NB strap ratio.

Set your timings and voltage manually in BIOS and leave SLI DISABLED (this is a gimmick that merely sets timings automatically with no thought for your voltage).


----------



## McSterls

Thanks Dostoyevsky77!


----------



## We Gone

Just got a new Vid card 8800GTS (G92)

And thanks again for everyones help to get my system stable


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McSterls*


Thanks Anubis, Sold me on the OCZ DDR2 PC8500, just ordered them. When overclocking did you set yours as linked or unlinked. I see yours are set to 800 is this linked? Do I need to enable the SLI settings for RAM or should I set things manually.

Thanks,
McSterls


With that memory you can set them @ 960 mhz and 4 4 4 10 1T bump the volts just a bit.and you set,run some super pi,and you notice the change in speed.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Finally got the Extreme Spirit II coolers on. Had to ditch my Audigy 2 soundcard though and replace it with the bundled card (Supreme FX)









But I thought I'd post a pic of the inside and show just how crowded it gets with an SLI setup and a Big Typhoon:


----------



## Benny99

nice man there good coolers









And btw does ure SB get hot with the spirit on it

Cause i have them to my NB is warm whilst my SB is coldish lol


----------



## nobody2000

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
As I said,

Thanks for your replay.
I'm looking for P5N32-E SLI layout and reference map file.
Anyone know where can I find and download it ?
or can anybody upload it and send me the file address ?

I need layout and reference map for repairing my main board .


----------



## nobody2000

please run cpu-z and post mainboard tab screens shot for me here .(P5N32-E Sli and P5N32-E SLI Plus )


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I'm @ work, but try this:

680i:
http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...-8&sa=N&tab=wi

650i:
http://images.google.com/images?svnu...=Search+Images

How detailed does your reference map need to be? If you need every circuit and diode, you'll probably have to contact ASUS directly. If you just need general board layout, try the manual (the 680i manual is HERE).


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*


nice man there good coolers









And btw does ure SB get hot with the spirit on it

Cause i have them to my NB is warm whilst my SB is coldish lol


Well, my SB temp dropped from 86c to 45c after the cooler was installed. I don't know about the NB, as I can't determine the temperature, but I assume it's similar.


----------



## nobody2000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


I'm @ work, but try this:

680i:
http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...-8&sa=N&tab=wi

650i:
http://images.google.com/images?svnu...=Search+Images

How detailed does your reference map need to be? If you need every circuit and diode, you'll probably have to contact ASUS directly. If you just need general board layout, try the manual (the 680i manual is HERE).



Thanks for your replay.Maybe now it's time for explaining why I ask some question about P5N32-E SLI and plus version.

Have you ever seen P5N32-E SLI with Nvidia nForce 590 SLI as south bridge ??








I'm sure your answer is not ,Now you know how much I was surprised when I see it .

I purchase my mainboard from Belgium because this model (P5N32-E SLI ) is not distribute at my country Iran at all .About 35 days ago my system had some problem and after testing all part I notice my mainboard has problem so I took to professional hardware repairing company (Asus center in IRAN refused to repair this mainboard because they said I purchased mainboard from outside of Iran and they just provide guaranty service for mainboard which was purchased in iran and with their guaranty label ).









after 2 days this repairing company gave me my mainboard and tell me they change broken southbridge.

I test my system and all part are of and system work exactly like before .yesterday I just want to change my southbridge thermal compound with Arctic Silver 5 and thats when I was shocked .







(just imagine my face at that time )

I search alot about Nvidia nForce 590 SLI MCP and Nvidia nForce 680i SLI MCP and I think the best reference that I find is :

*Nvidia's nForce 680i SLI chipset*

Quote:



Quote:



http://tech-report.net/articles.x/11212/1




*Nvidia's nForce 590 SLI chipset for Intel CPUs*

Quote:



http://techreport.com/articles.x/11075/1


the best part is here :

Quote:



the nForce 680i SLI provides a few extra perks that its competitors do not, including hardware TCP/IP offloads for both integrated Gigabit Ethernet controllers. Those GigE controllers can also be teamed to form a single pseudo-2Gbps connection for those who just can't get enough bandwidth. The 680i SLI even includes provisions for networking quality-of-service; Nvidia's FirstPacket software allows users to prioritize outbound networking packets on an application-by-application basis. FirstPacket isn't slick enough to prioritize inbound packets, but for those looking to smooth ping times while uploading, it's a handy feature to have.

In addition to its loaded networking capabilities, the nForce 680i SLI also supports LinkBoost


I don't know the above difference are for nForce 680i SLI SPP or nForce 680i SLI MCP .My mainboard at the moment have nForce 680i SLI as north bridge and nForce 590 SLI as south bridge.

as you can see here The 680i SLI SPP is not equal to the nForce 590 SLI SPP.










but The 680i SLI MCP is identical to the nForce 590 SLI MCP.










now please tell me can I use nForce 590 SLI MCP or I should ask repairing company to replace it with 680i SLI MCP ?

ps:Sorry for long post and my bad English (I'm not native English speaker )


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

There is no 680i MCP. It doesn't exist. This board, the *680i* P5N32-E SLI uses a 590 MCP (southbridge).

A quote from the first article you linked to:

Quote:



At the south bridge, the nForce 680i SLI borrows from the 590 SLI. Seriously. The 680i SLI MCP is identical to the nForce 590 SLI MCP.


So, you're alright! No need to worry!


----------



## nobody2000

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
There is no 680i MCP. It doesn't exist. This board, the *680i* P5N32-E SLI uses a 590 MCP (southbridge).

A quote from the first article you linked to:

So, you're alright! No need to worry!


I think they mean 680i MCP is similar to 590 MPC but I think P5N32-E SLI mainboard use 680i MCP not 590 MCP .

I think P5N32-E SLI use MCP55PXE chip for South Bridge which is Nvidia nForce 680i SLI MCP (please someone confirm it )


----------



## McSterls

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
With that memory you can set them @ 960 mhz and 4 4 4 10 1T bump the volts just a bit.and you set,run some super pi,and you notice the change in speed.

Would you run them hotter then the rated 2.1v?


----------



## McSterls

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Anubis_offline* 
the Lower the spd the better mem settings you will get, check mine cpu 3.6 9x400fsb mem 800 4-4-4-5 1:1 is still the best way.

Anubis,

what voltage did you use with those timings?

Thanks,
McSterls


----------



## goatboat22

I need some help with this motherboard.

I'm using a Q6600, stock speed is 2.4 GHz. 4GB of DDR2 800 MHz RAM. I read through the guide at the beginning, and disabled all the things it says, but I'm still having a specific issue. Something keeps resetting the CPU multiplier. When I change the FSB or the RAM frequency, it stays changed when I check CPU-Z, but when I bump up the multiplier, it refuses to stay changed and automatically reverts to 9x. Can anyone tell me how to fix this?


----------



## NiViK

Quote:


Originally Posted by *goatboat22* 
I need some help with this motherboard.

I'm using a Q6600, stock speed is 2.4 GHz. 4GB of DDR2 800 MHz RAM. I read through the guide at the beginning, and disabled all the things it says, but I'm still having a specific issue. Something keeps resetting the CPU multiplier. When I change the FSB or the RAM frequency, it stays changed when I check CPU-Z, but when I bump up the multiplier, it refuses to stay changed and automatically reverts to 9x. Can anyone tell me how to fix this?

I believe the q6600 is locked at 9x multiplier except for some with special steppings.


----------



## goatboat22

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NiViK*


I believe the q6600 is locked at 9x multiplier except for some with special steppings.


Oh. Is there another way to overclock it then? Because when I change the FSB at all my system hangs.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goatboat22*


Oh. Is there another way to overclock it then? Because when I change the FSB at all my system hangs.


Hi and welcome to the forum.If you take some time and read a little bit,you can overclock your rig too.


----------



## Benny99

Make A System Profile under User CP tag mate


----------



## McSterls

And load up the 1203 Bios


----------



## Anubis_offline

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McSterls*


Anubis,

what voltage did you use with those timings?

Thanks,
McSterls


V2.250

You welcom


----------



## nobody2000

anyone has photo from P5N32-E SLI south bridge chipset? I need photo which I can read chipset model number .


----------



## arjo_reich

Southbridge for the P5N32-E (680i) is the MCP55PXE chipset.


I really wish i would have taken a better picture so that you *could* clearly make out the model number on it but maybe your mad photoshop skills can clean it up, lol...

The stock thermal-adhesive they use is a joke. Not only is it almost completely non-conductive but it is also hard as a rock and takes forever to remove properly. I replaced the MOSFET heatsinks with HR-09S/U (type II) units from ThermalRight and replaced the chipset coolers, both of them, with Spirit Extreme II's from Thermaltake. The difference was amazing. Stock cooled northbridge was reading 97C with my IR-Temperature Gage and the stock cooled southbridge was reading 78C using the same device. As a control, a cube of ice measured between 0.5-1.0C, lol. They're fun to play with guys...

Northbridge w/ Spirit Extreme II - 58C
Southbridge w/ Spirit Extreme II - 49C


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arjo_reich*


Southbridge for the P5N32-E (680i) is the MCP55PXE chipset.


I really wish i would have taken a better picture so that you *could* clearly make out the model number on it but maybe your mad photoshop skills can clean it up, lol...

The stock thermal-adhesive they use is a joke. Not only is it almost completely non-conductive but it is also hard as a rock and takes forever to remove properly. I replaced the MOSFET heatsinks with HR-09S/U (type II) units from ThermalRight and replaced the chipset coolers, both of them, with Spirit Extreme II's from Thermaltake. The difference was amazing. Stock cooled northbridge was reading 97C with my IR-Temperature Gage and the stock cooled southbridge was reading 78C using the same device. As a control, a cube of ice measured between 0.5-1.0C, lol. They're fun to play with guys...

Northbridge w/ Spirit Extreme II - 58C
Southbridge w/ Spirit Extreme II - 49C


Yeah, the Spirits are awesome aren't they? I went from 87c to 43c on the SB. And yes, I had a hell of time taking off that hardened, plastic like thermal goop off the die. I used a small knife to chip at it like it was rock.


----------



## nobody2000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arjo_reich*


Southbridge for the P5N32-E (680i) is the MCP55PXE chipset.


I really wish i would have taken a better picture so that you *could* clearly make out the model number on it but maybe your mad photoshop skills can clean it up, lol...

The stock thermal-adhesive they use is a joke. Not only is it almost completely non-conductive but it is also hard as a rock and takes forever to remove properly. I replaced the MOSFET heatsinks with HR-09S/U (type II) units from ThermalRight and replaced the chipset coolers, both of them, with Spirit Extreme II's from Thermaltake. The difference was amazing. Stock cooled northbridge was reading 97C with my IR-Temperature Gage and the stock cooled southbridge was reading 78C using the same device. As a control, a cube of ice measured between 0.5-1.0C, lol. They're fun to play with guys...

Northbridge w/ Spirit Extreme II - 58C
Southbridge w/ Spirit Extreme II - 49C



Thanks for your nice post about MCP model number


----------



## phantasm

Hey people what is the difference between P5N32-E PLUS & P5N32-E ?


----------



## nobody2000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phantasm*


Hey people what is the difference between P5N32-E PLUS & P5N32-E ?


if you mean P5N32-E Sli and sli plus difference is their chipsets :

P5N32-E SLI use NVIDIA nForceÂ® 680i SLI chipset for SPP and MCP
P5N32-E SLI PLUS use NVIDIAÂ® Dual X16 SLI which means 650i SLI SPP (C55) and 570 SLI MCP (some revision use 590 SLI as MCP ).


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nobody2000*


if you mean P5N32-E Sli and sli plus difference is their chipsets :

P5N32-E SLI use NVIDIA nForceÂ® 680i SLI chipset for SPP and MCP
P5N32-E SLI PLUS use NVIDIAÂ® Dual X16 SLI which means 650i SLI SPP (C55) and 570 SLI MCP (some revision use 590 SLI as MCP ).


Hey. I looked at my P5N32-E last night, and you're right, it says the SB is a 680i.

I'm still not sure if you should blame your computer repair guy, though... I still think the 590 SB is identical to the 680 SB. I think it's just a matter of how it reports.

Did you find anything else out?


----------



## nobody2000

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Hey. I looked at my P5N32-E last night, and you're right, it says the SB is a 680i.

I'm still not sure if you should blame your computer repair guy, though... I still think the 590 SB is identical to the 680 SB. I think it's just a matter of how it reports.

Did you find anything else out?

Refer to http://tech-report.net/articles.x/11212/1 :

Quote:

the nForce 680i SLI provides a few extra perks that its competitors do not, including hardware TCP/IP offloads for both integrated Gigabit Ethernet controllers. Those GigE controllers can also be teamed to form a single pseudo-2Gbps connection for those who just can't get enough bandwidth. The 680i SLI even includes provisions for networking quality-of-service; Nvidia's FirstPacket software allows users to prioritize outbound networking packets on an application-by-application basis. FirstPacket isn't slick enough to prioritize inbound packets, but for those looking to smooth ping times while uploading, it's a handy feature to have.
Now check this:










as you can see MCP provide those two Giga lan so I think with myself that this could be difference between 590 SLI MCP and 680i SLI MCP (more feature on lan connections) .

I'm still not sure that the above difference cause by MCP.


----------



## BloodLust22

Need a little help. I have a E6850, P5N32-E SLI, and Corsair XM2 6400 Ram. I have Watercooling and aftermarket fans on everything as well. I'm a noob to OCing and have read this section to a "T" to help me get where I am currently. Currently my system is running at 3.6Ghz (very stable), FSB1600 (x9 x 400) my RAM is set to 5-5-5-18 2T @ 800mhz. I'm trying to get this system to 3.8Ghz and I know it's very possible from everywhere i've read. The issue i'm having is if I adjust the FSB up by even 1mhz to 1601, the system will no longer boot windows. I've tried changing the Mem freq to 400, 450, 600, 677, 850 and 900. I've also tried different timings and nothing will seem to get windows to boot after the FSB change. If I leave the FSB at 1600 and then change memory settings, the system boots fine and is stable. However, if I do anything to the FSB over 1600, boom, no windows. I find it very odd that the system is SUPER stable at 1600 FSB but won't even boot after that. What am I doing wrong? I have my Vcore set to 1.4v and my RAM set to 2.1v, any advice would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BloodLust22*


Need a little help. I have a E6850, P5N32-E SLI, and Corsair XM2 6400 Ram. I have Watercooling and aftermarket fans on everything as well. I'm a noob to OCing and have read this section to a "T" to help me get where I am currently. Currently my system is running at 3.6Ghz (very stable), FSB1600 (x9 x 400) my RAM is set to 5-5-5-18 2T @ 800mhz. I'm trying to get this system to 3.8Ghz and I know it's very possible from everywhere i've read. The issue i'm having is if I adjust the FSB up by even 1mhz to 1601, the system will no longer boot windows. I've tried changing the Mem freq to 400, 450, 600, 677, 850 and 900. I've also tried different timings and nothing will seem to get windows to boot after the FSB change. If I leave the FSB at 1600 and then change memory settings, the system boots fine and is stable. However, if I do anything to the FSB over 1600, boom, no windows. I find it very odd that the system is SUPER stable at 1600 FSB but won't even boot after that. What am I doing wrong? I have my Vcore set to 1.4v and my RAM set to 2.1v, any advice would be greatly appreciated!


First off, welcome to OCN. Why don't you take a minute to fill out your system specs in the UserCP?

About your OC, try bumping the vCore up incrementally. I've had it way past 1.5v without any problems.


----------



## thatbiggbadwolfy

Has anyone used 2x 2gb sticks in this motherboard for better timings? I am fairly certain that the BSODs I experience while OC-ing to 3.0 (1203 bios) are because of my Patriot Ram sticks (4x pc6400)... I really, really hate this motherboard.

I'm thinking about buying 4 sticks of Crucial Ballistix

I just don't want any more BSODs!!!

The GeIL 4gb (2x 2gb): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820144110

Crucial Ballistix 2gb: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148069

Crucial Ballistix Tracer 2gb: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148070

OCZ Platinum 2gb: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227178

I'm looking more towards the OCZ. Let me know what experiences you guys have with these ram sticks. Thanks! (OC-ing with Q6600 with SLARC)

(I see no difference between these 2)


----------



## thatbiggbadwolfy

Actually, I'm going to purchase the Axe (Transcend) ones http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820208343

If this doesn't work, then I'm throwing out this motherboard for an ASUS Striker II 780i. Too many headaches with this board.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thatbiggbadwolfy*


Has anyone used 2x 2gb sticks in this motherboard for better timings? I am fairly certain that the BSODs I experience while OC-ing to 3.0 (1203 bios) are because of my Patriot Ram sticks (4x pc6400)... I really, really hate this motherboard.

I'm thinking about buying 4 sticks of Crucial Ballistix

I just don't want any more BSODs!!!

The GeIL 4gb (2x 2gb): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820144110

Crucial Ballistix 2gb: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148069

Crucial Ballistix Tracer 2gb: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148070

OCZ Platinum 2gb: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227178

I'm looking more towards the OCZ. Let me know what experiences you guys have with these ram sticks. Thanks! (OC-ing with Q6600 with SLARC)

(I see no difference between these 2)


Actually I first used 4 x 1GB Patriot PC 6400 memory in this board too - without any BSODs (I switched because I'm anal and wanted QVL memory). So your BSODs might be due to something else, or if it is the memory, it's because one of the sticks is bad.

I use Ballistix now and they work great, I recommend them!


----------



## thatbiggbadwolfy

I see. Yeah these 4 sticks worked perfectly with my Gigabyte AMD 590 mobo. Hmm. I highly suspect this mobo to being defective or at least.. having poor cooling. Even with a new fan on the northbridge and OCZ active memory cooling.

Damnit


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Has anyone looked at THIS for chipset cooling?

It looks like it might fit on the P5N32-E...

Ideas/comments?


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Has anyone looked at THIS for chipset cooling?

It looks like it might fit on the P5N32-E...

Ideas/comments?

It should fit according to the description. It looks pretty good actually, the built-in temperature sensor is pretty neat. It looks like it can go up to 5000 RPM as well, which is what the TT Extreme Spirits do on full blast.

However, it doesn't look like it will solve in space issues, as it wil still limit the clearance for the adjacent PCI slot.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Good point, so maybe only for NB...

REP.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Good point, so maybe only for NB...

REP.

Thanks. Actually, I found a chipset fan yesterday that I had bought for an old Abit board but never used. It's a small copper heatsink (exactly the size of the NB/SB green square) with an equally small fan on it, very minimal, maybe half an inch in height. It made me wonder if it would fit _underneath_ a PCI card, thereby allowing it sit directly over the SB as it did with the stock heat sink.

Awesome, something to do when I get home!


----------



## m.i.h.a.

im planning on buying another 2GB kit (OCZ 2Ã-1GB 800MHz CL5 5-5-15).....so this means that ill have 4Ã-1GB on this board.

Are there any issues when using this amount of ram on this board, can i expect some problems?

Thx


----------



## Anubis_offline

bios 1302







, (pleas for give a old Dutchmen) ready for E8400 Anubis little bit confused..??????


----------



## Pyr0

1305?
i only see 1302 *shrug:
according to this list:
http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...=P5N32-E%20SLI
the 1302 bios only added support for Celeron dual core 1200 & 1300, and Core 2 Duo E4700


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *m.i.h.a.* 
im planning on buying another 2GB kit (OCZ 2Ã-1GB 800MHz CL5 5-5-15).....so this means that ill have 4Ã-1GB on this board.

Are there any issues when using this amount of ram on this board, can i expect some problems?

Thx

It's possible, but it's not without minor issues. The board is going to fight back with you a little. You'll need more vNB (which means ensuring you have proper cooling for it), and possible a little extra vDIMM. You will probably not be able to overclock the RAM as high as you could with 2 DIMMs. Beyond that, it's just a matter of juggling timings, clock speed, and your ratio (NB strap) to find the highest performance.

Off-topic FYI: your signature says "Vista x68", not "x86".

***EDIT @ Anibus: I think 1305 is a Striker revision. Where did you see it?


----------



## m.i.h.a.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


It's possible, but it's not without minor issues. The board is going to fight back with you a little. You'll need more vNB (which means ensuring you have proper cooling for it), and possible a little extra vDIMM. You will probably not be able to overclock the RAM as high as you could with 2 DIMMs. Beyond that, it's just a matter of juggling timings, clock speed, and your ratio (NB strap) to find the highest performance.

Off-topic FYI: your signature says "Vista x68", not "x86".

***EDIT @ Anibus: I think 1305 is a Striker revision. Where did you see it?



thx....im not a hardcore oc and i dont intend to push my system to the max, i need it to perform 24/7 without any issues.
So at default frequences ill be fine with 4Ã-1GB?....the problem is when it comes to oc, right?

what about with "only" 3GB (3Ã-1GB)?...is that better for oc then 4Ã-1GB on this mb? any problems?

thx for the notice about my sig typo


----------



## Nostrano

Hey guys, i just got this board as my striker broke, so can somebody basically sum up all the things i need to change in the Bios to get a nice stable OC?


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nostrano*


Hey guys, i just got this board as my striker broke, so can somebody basically sum up all the things i need to change in the Bios to get a nice stable OC?


It shouldn't be too different from your OC settings on your Striker, so I would start with those and work up.


----------



## Nostrano

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow*


It shouldn't be too different from your OC settings on your Striker, so I would start with those and work up.


I Oc'ed my striker ages ago, then my Tuniq broke so i have been on stock ever since, i have been smashed since then so could do with help


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nostrano*


I Oc'ed my striker ages ago, then my Tuniq broke so i have been on stock ever since, i have been smashed since then so could do with help


Well, then check out the OP. It's step-by-step and will get you started. Can't give any better help than that.


----------



## We Gone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nostrano*


I Oc'ed my striker ages ago, then my Tuniq broke so i have been on stock ever since, i have been smashed since then so could do with help


Check out what my settings are same board same cpu ..maybe it will help..they are listed under my system..


----------



## rsnt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Has anyone looked at THIS for chipset cooling?

It looks like it might fit on the P5N32-E...

Ideas/comments?


I tried it, it doesn't fit.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsnt*


I tried it, it doesn't fit.


Okay! Thanks for the heads-up!

REP.


----------



## We Gone

Maybe I posted this in the wrong place

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ml#post3312680


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *We Gone*


Maybe I posted this in the wrong place

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ml#post3312680



I'm fairly certain you only need to worry about cooling the chipset and the MOSFETs.


----------



## We Gone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow*


I'm fairly certain you only need to worry about cooling the chipset and the MOSFETs.


Thanks just was not sure as I had seen a few pic of them with heat sinks...Thanks..


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

That looks like a picture of a Maximus!

You just need to put the heatsinks on the VRMs that become exposed by the stock ones that you take off.

That photo might be misleading a little bit, since it's not a P5N32-E. The heatsinks you see there are actually the stock Maximus photos.


----------



## We Gone

You are correct I just used a pic I found that shows the chips.. My MB only has 3 in a row the 4th is off to the side a bit.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Robilar has some good P5N32-E photos HERE. There are four VRM/mosfet pairs per heatpipe assembly.


----------



## We Gone

Thanks..

I have new MOSFET coolers (HR-09S type 2) the chips I was questioning are the ones labeled R27 in his pics. would heat sinks help? do they get hot?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Oh. I understand now.

No, those don't need HS. I think it would get in the way of the CPU HSF airflow.


----------



## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *We Gone*


Thanks..

I have new MOSFET coolers (HR-09S type 2) the chips I was questioning are the ones labeled R27 in his pics. would heat sinks help? do they get hot?


You only need mosfet and chipset coolers. You can put heatsinks on all the extra exposed chips but that is unnecessary.


----------



## mica3speedy

gven the history of this board and quad's, would I be better off getting an e8400 and getting it to 3.8ghz, or a q6600 G0 and getting it to hopefully 2.8-3.0ghz? I don't really want to get a new motherboard until nehalem comes out. I would try to get more out of my e6700, but my temps are already high (not a good chip 1.3250 vid). I do video encoding and want to get more performance than what I'm getting with the e6700.


----------



## ZEALOUS_DRAGON

I have spent three days and countless hours trying to understand what it is I will be getting into. As you can see by my specs, I am a little outdated which explains my reasoning for an upgrade. But before I do so I like to make an educated decision on my purchase. From what I can tell from my own personal needs (multi tasking using 2 monitors. one monitor is playing music videos while the other monitor is surfing the web, and in the background is p2p going on heavily. I also do allot of DVD decrypting) it looks like the P5N32-E SLI is the board I will end up with. The Asus site states that it will only support DDR2-800 but I have seen in this thread that some are using DDR2-1066, how is this possible? I will be purchasing a E8400, will this work on this board? Is there a better board out there thats equivalent to this. I am also considering the STRIKER 2 FORMULA. Any advise is always helpful. thanks. I need SLI


----------



## Anubis_offline

Hello guys,

Any news on the new bios 1302?, Mine hands are itching to oc the wolfdales/Yorkfields


----------



## mica3speedy

Zealous_dragon, this board will take the e8400. However, if you ever plan on getting a quad, then this board isn't for you. From my understanding, it doesn't to that great with the conroe quads, and won't take the new 45nm quads at all. Maybe take a look at the 780i boards, they are newer and also have sli


----------



## Benny99

The P5N32-E is a good board for OVerclocking Core 2 Duos (65nm chips)

Quads not so much.

If ure purchashing the E8400 or E8500 or the new Quads DONT USE THIS board.

This board dosent support quads and Duo Overclocking wouldnt be a good option.

Rather Go for some of the P35 chips or X38 and if u have the money get the 780i.


----------



## ZEALOUS_DRAGON

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*


The P5N32-E is a good board for OVerclocking Core 2 Duos (65nm chips)

Quads not so much.

If ure purchashing the E8400 or E8500 or the new Quads DONT USE THIS board.

This board dosent support quads and Duo Overclocking wouldnt be a good option.

Rather Go for some of the P35 chips or X38 and if u have the money get the 780i.










Sorry, little confused, but greatly appreciate the reply. You stated above regarding the E8400 DON'T USE. But this chip is Core 2 Duo 3.00ghz 1333mhz 45nm. I really don't for-see getting a quad any time in the next couple of years. I was going to purchase the E6750 2.66ghz until I saw the E8400 for 50 bucks more. I had contacted ASUS for advice over the weekend for assistance in sorting out the board I needed (good lord do they have too many choices) and 3 different service techs said "stay away from the Striker 2 780i chipset". They had also stated for the money the P5N32-E was pretty much the same board as the striker 2 with a different chip-set and the Gaming title or acc. Any thoughts.


----------



## Nowyn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
gven the history of this board and quad's, would I be better off getting an e8400 and getting it to 3.8ghz, or a q6600 G0 and getting it to hopefully 2.8-3.0ghz? I don't really want to get a new motherboard until nehalem comes out. I would try to get more out of my e6700, but my temps are already high (not a good chip 1.3250 vid). I do video encoding and want to get more performance than what I'm getting with the e6700.

Personally i can get my B3 Q6600 to 3.0 no problem with a proper bios, have to find my limit yet (waiting for better cooling)
No doubt u will get much higher OC petencial with E8400, so if u r after best OC then go for it, if u don't wanna do much with the board (replacing chipset cooling is a must for 3.8 E8400) u can very well get the Q6600, i'd say 3.0-3.2 is quite reachable in like 80% of the cases with a proper bios.


----------



## thatbiggbadwolfy

This board is trash for Quad Cores. After 3 months of struggling with this board and just putting in new ram (Transcend Axe 1200mhz PC9200) (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820208343) I am ready to chuck this into the garbage for a EVGA 780i.

Horrible, horrible board. Super unstable. Blue screens everyday in Vista. I can get it to 3.0ghz but if it ever hits 3.3mhz with hundreds of voltage configurations (plucked from here and HardOCP)--the board just hangs on 1203 Post or BSODs in windows. I have a G0 stepping 6600. I hate this board. I'm done.

People are getting their 6600 G0 steppings to 3.8ghz with my ram and a P35 board or 3.6 with a 780i. This can't even break 3.0. Sad.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I don't know who started the rumor that the E8400 doesn't OC well on this board, but it's not true. I dropped the sigged E8400 into my P5N32-E over the weekend for some benches and got a very comfortable 4.05GHz right off the bat.

I do not see any reason why anyone should be discouraged from considering P5N32-E with Wolfdales.

Furthermore, the latest word on Yorkfields is that this board WILL support them after a BIOS revision. Although, admittedly, there is little chance they will overclock any better than their 65nm quad brethren.


----------



## thatbiggbadwolfy

With the new Transcend Ram I got to see Windows at 3.29ghz on a Q6600 G0 stepping--this is with 1200mhz ram.

But I've also seen 40 BSODs. Throwing this motherboard out.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Literally throwing it out? Can I have it?


----------



## thatbiggbadwolfy

Actually I just ordered a EVGA 780i on impulse from newegg.. so i'll try to ebay this board for 50 bucks lol

i would have liked to stomped on it though

6 hours later: BSODs again. Do not buy this board EVER.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
I dropped the sigged E8400 into my P5N32-E over the weekend for some benches and got a very comfortable 4.05GHz right off the bat.

Dostoyevsky, you are bad for my finances. (_Opens new window to Newegg to consider purchasing an 8400._)

Nice OC on the 8400!


----------



## ZEALOUS_DRAGON

GoneTomorrow said:


> Dostoyevsky77 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I dropped the sigged E8400 into my P5N32-E over the weekend for some benches and got a very comfortable 4.05GHz right off the bat.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Dostoyevsky, you are bad for my finances. (_Opens new window to Newegg to consider purchasing an 8400._)
> 
> Nice OC on the 8400!
> 
> 
> FYI ---- zipzoomfly, INTEL Core 2 Duo E8400 3.00 GHz 1333 MHz 775 6MB Desktop Processor Retail ***Free Shipping*** ZipZoomfly Part#: 10007603
> Manufacturer SKU: BX80570E8400 Our Price: $235.80
> 
> General
> Model Name Core 2 Duo
> Specification
> CPU Product Type Desktop
> Socket 775
> Front Side Bus 1333 MHz
> Frequency 3.00 GHz
> Process 45nm
> L2 cache 6MB
> Cooling Device Heatsink/Fan
> Feature
> 64-Bit Support Yes
> Hyper Threading Yes
> Windows Vista Ready Yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOO HOOOOO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just bought one!
Click to expand...


----------



## GoneTomorrow

ZEALOUS_DRAGON said:


> GoneTomorrow said:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*
> 
> 
> I dropped the sigged E8400 into my P5N32-E over the weekend for some benches and got a very comfortable 4.05GHz right off the bat.
> 
> FYI ---- zipzoomfly, INTEL Core 2 Duo E8400 3.00 GHz 1333 MHz 775 6MB Desktop Processor Retail ***Free Shipping*** ZipZoomfly Part#: 10007603
> Manufacturer SKU: BX80570E8400 Our Price: $235.80
> 
> General
> Model Name Core 2 Duo
> Specification
> CPU Product Type Desktop
> Socket 775
> Front Side Bus 1333 MHz
> Frequency 3.00 GHz
> Process 45nm
> L2 cache 6MB
> Cooling Device Heatsink/Fan
> Feature
> 64-Bit Support Yes
> Hyper Threading Yes
> Windows Vista Ready Yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOO HOOOOO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just bought one!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I saw that too! I might buy from ZZF as well since Neweegg is out of stock.
Click to expand...


----------



## alexisd

430 pages and counting,what a great guide.Good team work.If im not wrong i post in the first page and so on.


----------



## marky07

Dostoyevsky77 wrote: I don't know who started the rumor that the E8400 doesn't OC well on this board, but it's not true. I dropped the sigged E8400 into my P5N32-E over the weekend for some benches and got a very comfortable 4.05GHz right off the bat.

Hi Dostoyevsky77, I've just ordered a E8400 and was wondering which BIOS revision you used to run this CPU. I'm currently using 1203 with a E6600 and P5N32E-SLI.

Thanks
Mark


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Yeah. I heard 1302 was the only BIOS that works with Wolfdale, but I'm afraid I was unable to confirm this. I just flashed to 1302 regardless because I was just messing around; no time to do extensive testing.

Definitely REP+ if you can confirm Wolfdale works on 1203, which is - by far - the superior BIOS (at least for quad OCs... maybe it doesn't make a difference for C2D).


----------



## Benny99

I doubt 1203 would work with wolfdales due to it being a old bios.

However 1302 would most probably work.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thatbiggbadwolfy*


This board is trash for Quad Cores. After 3 months of struggling with this board and just putting in new ram (Transcend Axe 1200mhz PC9200) (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820208343) I am ready to chuck this into the garbage for a EVGA 780i.

Horrible, horrible board. Super unstable. Blue screens everyday in Vista. I can get it to 3.0ghz but if it ever hits 3.3mhz with hundreds of voltage configurations (plucked from here and HardOCP)--the board just hangs on 1203 Post or BSODs in windows. I have a G0 stepping 6600. I hate this board. I'm done.

People are getting their 6600 G0 steppings to 3.8ghz with my ram and a P35 board or 3.6 with a 780i. This can't even break 3.0. Sad.


http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=243848


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=243848

LOL! Good to see you still stop by from time-to-time!


----------



## marky07

I didn't expect 1203 to run the E8400 but will try before flashing to 1302 just to confirm. New CPU should arrive on Monday so will have to wait a few days yet to try. Good to know that it will run on this board with 1302 though. I'll be happy if I can get it stable at just 4gb.
I guess with this board being able to run 45nm C2D there will be more BIOS releases to cater for the new CPU's too.
I'll let you know how it all pans out.

Cheers


----------



## marky07

OK, got the E8400 today, chucked it in, started system with 1203.
Detected the CPU's brand name correctly ie; E8400 @ 3000Mhz but gives message that this CPU is not recognised and a BIOS update is required to unleash it's full power.
So flashed to 1302 and ended up with same situation !!!!!
Checked in BIOS and its set to multi = 6
Changed multi to 9, reboot, same thing, check BIOS, multi = 6.
System runs OK, including Vista 64 but BIOS won't let me set CPU to stock speed let alone OC.
I'd say 1203 would have done exactly the same had I gone a bit further with it.

Dostoyevsky77, how did you get 1302 to recognise the E8400?

I believe ASUS are due to release a BIOS soon to fix this anyway but looks like gaming will be crap until they do.

Edit:
Aha, have now found I can set multi to 8. Have also got up 3.2Ghz but don't seem to be able to get higher yet. Probably just need to pump more volts to CPU. Will wait for new BIOS before trying more. Much higher temps than old CPU and on less volts ???? but seems in line with what others are reporting. (~49 celcius, idle, cores 1 & 2)
Even at 3.2 I've jumped 365 points on 3D-Mark-06 (cpu up 106 points).
I think that's pretty good for a very low OC compared against the E6600 OC'd to 3.4 from 2.4
Every boot requires 'Press F1 to continue or DEL to enter setup' though.
Hanging out for BIOS revision now.


----------



## Viper_H

Hello!

My first post here. Wanted to thank everyone who's contributed to this thread so far.

I recently purchased the Asus P5N32-E SLi motherboard to go in my new watercooled machine, with a Q6600 with G0 stepping. After getting all my kit in the rig and running it up for a while, I figured I'd try some overclocking.

As I'm a complete noob at this, I had no idea what to do, initially tryng to up my CPU multiplier to like x15 or something. Obviously this didn't work, but I read a few sites, and eventually figured I could set my FSB at 1333Mhz and get 3.0GHz out of my Q6600 without too much effort.

My system booted perfectly and ran fine - for about 20 mins. Then locked up and died. Turns out that yes, the NB was incredibly hot, and I had to let the system cool down for a few minutes before I could reset the OC and get it back up again.

After reading this thread and a few other sites, it seems I didn't do the proper research when it came to getting a new motherboard. Obviously this board isn't great with quads, and so I'm left with the following options:

- Get a water block for my NB and SB, and run my CPU at a stable FSB.
- Skip getting a water block, and just mod up some fans to go on the stock cooling and see if that works.
- Not bother with OCing at all,
or
-Dump the motherboard entirely and get an EVGA 680i SLi A1 for better OCing on my Quad.

My only problem with dumping the board is that I got it as a gift through my work, and don't want to seem ungrateful if I return it. I could always ebay it but I wouldn't get as much for it as if I exchanged it through work for an EVGA one. Also, I'm not even sure my work will take it back!

I'd like to hear what people think, whether I should stick with this board or change it.

Thanks!
-David

*Edit* Also, just a noobie question - Can I damage my kit by messing around with voltages, overclocking etc?


----------



## Robilar

Are you planning SLI? If not then I would suggest you sell the board and get a solid Intel P35 chipset board (The Abit IP35E is fantastic and is around $100). If you intend SLI then you are correct, the asus board is great for dual cores (although apparently there are some issues with the new 45nm chips) but it is lacking with quads. The EVGA 680i would be better and you could pick one up off e-bay fairly cheap.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Marky07, set the multi to 10, save & exit. For some reason, that snapped me back to 9. I couldn't get the unknown processor message to disappear, though.

***EDIT: Chinese new year right now. They'll get cracking at BIOS revisions when it's over, I'm confident. I'm eagerly awaiting one for my Maximus, too.


----------



## Viper_H

Hi,

I was planning on SLi at some point in the future, yes.

I'm not sure if there's any point me overclocking at all to be quite honest. I was able to run 3dmark 06's basic (unregistered) test on my 3GHz overclock and only made up 400 3dmarks. Doesn't seem like much performance gain for all that trouble.

I might not even bother, cause it seems like my graphics card is now the bottleneck.


----------



## Robilar

If you go sli, then the bottleneck will be reduced. Realistically all you need is 3 ghz on a quad to overcome that though (which is attainable on your board).


----------



## Viper_H

Gah, might just stick with this board then and watercool my chipset.

Anyone know a water block that'll fit the P5N32-E NB and SB? And can I get away with standard heatsink MOSFET coolers or will I need blocks for those too?

Cheers.









*EDIT* Had a look at the Swiftech MCW30, but don't know if that'll fit on my board or my SB. Any advice?


----------



## Robilar

nb and sb use the same mounting holes. If it fits on one, it will fit on the other


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Viper_H*


Gah, might just stick with this board then and watercool my chipset.

Anyone know a water block that'll fit the P5N32-E NB and SB? And can I get away with standard heatsink MOSFET coolers or will I need blocks for those too?

Cheers.









*EDIT* Had a look at the Swiftech MCW30, but don't know if that'll fit on my board or my SB. Any advice?










Unless you're just set on adding to your current WC setup, the chipset can be adequately cooled with good after market air coolers (see OP). Might save you some money and/or hassle.


----------



## Viper_H

Money isn't really a problem, just time, and risk factor.

I need to get a waterblock for my 8800GTS anyway, so if I'm adding to my setup I may as well throw in a couple of chipset coolers.

Thanks for the help guys


----------



## Cassius

Hi,

This is my first post on this forum. I've got a little problem with overclocking:
I first read the guide to get some answers to my questions and tried some things, but nothing helped. Then i started reading a lot of posts, but still no succes.

Ok the problem: i'm trying to get my core frequency to at least 3600Mhz, but i can't get it beyond +/- 3400Mhz. A little strange because it should be very easy.
While starting windows, or sometimes after being short in windows, the system hangs and i need to reboot. Now my system runs perfectly overclocked at 3000Mhz.

My system is specified is my user account. Or in short:
-E6600 revision B2
-Asus P5N32-E SLI bios 1205
-Kingston PC6400 HyperX timings 4-4-4-12 2T
-Asus Geforce 8800GTS 640mb
-Antec 450W power

Things i tried:
Increase Vcore up to 1.5V
Increase Memvoltage up to 2.1V
NB voltage up to 1.4V
SB voltage up to 1.6V
CPU VTT up to 1.55V
Decrease memtimings
etc. etc.

Remark: Asus PC Probe II shows me (not always) some strange values. But i don't trust that program.

I prefer to use: core temp, CPU-Z, Orthos etc.

Anybody an idea?

Thanks for your help!


----------



## marky07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Viper_H* 
Gah, might just stick with this board then and watercool my chipset.

Anyone know a water block that'll fit the P5N32-E NB and SB? And can I get away with standard heatsink MOSFET coolers or will I need blocks for those too?

Hi Viper_H
Since first getting this board I've used Thermaltake AquaBrazing - W3 (P/N: CL-W0083). Not bad cost-wise too. Under load the SB & NB (motherboard sensor near NB anyway) both report no more than ~44 celcius. Idle they run at ~34. This is with ambient room temp of ~26.

These blocks fit perfectly and are quite low, however, I don't run any card in the centre PCI-E slot so can't advise whether they would interfere with any card added there.

If you are running a card in the centre slot you may need to go to air & others on this forum have spent considerable time finding just the right things for that. Others will advise you on what works best.

As far as the MOSFETS are concerned, I ended up cutting the original pipes off and using the standard fin coolers supplied. The Thermalright HR-09S heat sinks I bought didn't fit at all, despite their web site listing this board as compatible. I believe since then they have released another series which do fit but haven't seen or tried them.

Dostoyevsky77, Got work to do just now but will try what you suggest. Before I do I'm going to flash back to 1203 just to see if it will run the CPU the same as 1302. Got time to muck about a bit before a new BIOS comes out.
Cheers.


----------



## We Gone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cassius* 
Hi,

This is my first post on this forum. I've got a little problem with overclocking:
I first read the guide to get some answers to my questions and tried some things, but nothing helped. Then i started reading a lot of posts, but still no succes.

Ok the problem: i'm trying to get my core frequency to at least 3600Mhz, but i can't get it beyond +/- 3400Mhz. A little strange because it should be very easy.
While starting windows, or sometimes after being short in windows, the system hangs and i need to reboot. Now my system runs perfectly overclocked at 3000Mhz.

My system is specified is my user account. Or in short:
-E6600 revision B2
-Asus P5N32-E SLI bios 1205
-Kingston PC6400 HyperX timings 4-4-4-12 2T
-Asus Geforce 8800GTS 640mb
-Antec 450W power

Things i tried:
Increase Vcore up to 1.5V
Increase Memvoltage up to 2.1V
NB voltage up to 1.4V
SB voltage up to 1.6V
CPU VTT up to 1.55V
Decrease memtimings
etc. etc.

Remark: Asus PC Probe II shows me (not always) some strange values. But i don't trust that program.

I prefer to use: core temp, CPU-Z, Orthos etc.

Anybody an idea?

Thanks for your help!

Been having the same issues getting to 3.6..I can run stable at 3.4 Orthos over 9hrs.. I can boot and run 3Dmark06 at 3.6, but it bombs 10 to 15 min into orthos.

Settings I use @3.4

Vcore 1.375V
mem 2.2V
VT 1.3V
NB voltage 1.45V
SB voltage 1.5V
CPU VTT 1.50V

Tried @3.6

Vcore 1.41V
Mem 2.25V
VT 1.3V
NB 1.45
SB 1.50V
VTT 1.50V
Vt 1.30V


----------



## marky07

Dostoyevsky77, Tested your multi '10' trick with 1203 but it jumps back to 6 after save & exit. Didn't bother trying 8 as there's not much point.
The 10 trick works OK with 1302 except each reboot requires resetting to 10.
Running at 3.6 now with core volts displayed in Everest as 1.232 which droops under load to 1.2 (Orthos).
I'm leaving it at that until we get a BIOS revision as the temps are weird on this CPU. At idle ~8 ??!!? for CPU and ~ 50 for cores. Under load (Orthos) ~22 CPU and ~60 cores. That's from the latest (I think) Everest beta.
What temps does your CPU display when running at 1.4v ?

Cheers and thanks for the '10' trick.


----------



## Benny99

More and More overclocking problems with this board


----------



## Cassius

Quote:



Originally Posted by *We Gone*


Been having the same issues getting to 3.6..I can run stable at 3.4 Orthos over 9hrs.. I can boot and run 3Dmark06 at 3.6, but it bombs 10 to 15 min into orthos.

Settings I use @3.4

Vcore 1.375V
mem 2.2V
VT 1.3V
NB voltage 1.45V
SB voltage 1.5V
CPU VTT 1.50V

Tried @3.6

Vcore 1.41V
Mem 2.25V
VT 1.3V
NB 1.45
SB 1.50V
VTT 1.50V
Vt 1.30V



I tried these settings but no succes. But there was some strange thing. First time i tried, it managed to start to windows and i started coretemp. But this is really weird: 1 core was lost... only 1 core temperature was displayed. The other: blank. After several new startups, the system hangs at starting windows. 
I'm having some doubts at this bios version 1205. Or should this be okay?


----------



## mica3speedy

Well I just found out that Asus is working on a new bios for full support of the new 45nm DUAL core cpus. There isn't a release date yet though, and since it's new years over there, there is more delay.


----------



## We Gone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marky07*


What temps does your CPU display when running at 1.4v ?


24/47 My CPU temps stay about the same.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cassius*


I'm having some doubts at this bios version 1205. Or should this be okay?


Try Running 1203


----------



## Cassius

Should this bios 1203 be more stable? Or what is the difference?


----------



## We Gone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cassius*


Should this bios 1203 be more stable? Or what is the difference?










Just checked and 1203 is not listed on there site any more








Not sure what to tell ya..maybe someone else knows?


----------



## mica3speedy

Here, I'll attach the 1203 bios


----------



## Cassius

Quote:



Originally Posted by *We Gone*









Just checked and 1203 is not listed on there site any more








Not sure what to tell ya..maybe someone else knows?


I see. That's pretty weird








Thanks mica3speedy, for the attachment. I'll try it. Good chance on succes?

And what about this new beta driver 1302? Any experience with that?


----------



## mica3speedy

no, I don't use beta bios's . As for the 1203 bios, as long as you don't have any raptor usb devices you should be good.


----------



## Benny99

1203=win


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


no, I don't use beta bios's . As for the 1203 bios, as long as you don't have any raptor usb devices you should be good.


razer, not raptor


----------



## Benny99

Litlrattyy lawlz


----------



## mica3speedy

my bad, I knew it started with a R...


----------



## broadway69

I'm having issues overclocking my Quad past 2.7?!? Granted, major noob here so I'm still learning. I found cpuz to be helpful but I have absolutely no faith in Nvidia NTune, any suggestions on where overclocking should occur. Only in the bios? Or is there 3rd party software to pull of tweaks isntantly in the o/s.


----------



## We Gone

I use Rivatuner for my vid card and ATItool to check for artifacts as I over clock..Works great Check out the Vid card section here .....


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marky07*


(SNIP!)
I'm leaving it at that until we get a BIOS revision as the temps are weird on this CPU. At idle ~8 ??!!? for CPU and ~ 50 for cores. Under load (Orthos) ~22 CPU and ~60 cores. That's from the latest (I think) Everest beta.
What temps does your CPU display when running at 1.4v ?

Cheers and thanks for the '10' trick.


I think a BIOS revision is on the horizon. With Chinese New Year over with, hopefully we'll see some new revisions for a lot of boards (I'm eagerly awaiting one for my Maximus as well).

The E8400 purportedly is crap at temperature monitoring. I've gone through two chips that report 10(c) apart from each other. I think if you have good cooling and keep it under 1.45v, you'll be alright.

Here are my two chips. Keep in mind, this is on my Maximus. I only had the first chip on the P5N32-E for less than a day:

Q748A116 @ 4.32 35 / 55 / 1.45v
Q745A731 @ 4.32 45 / 65 / 1.40v


----------



## mica3speedy

very nice







. I'm leaning towards the e8400, since my e6700 is maxed at 3.2ghz.


----------



## gladideg

Thank you all for this thread, it's been a very helpful guide during the setup of the system I'm currently running.

*My specs:*
_MB:_ p5n32-e sli (_*BIOS:*_ 1205)
_CPU:_ c2d 6550 2333mhz @ *2931mhz* (7x 419mhz)
_MEM:_ OCZ Gold XTC DDR2 PC6400 KIT 2048MB x 2, 800MHz, CL5, "5-5-5-18" (OCZ2G8004GK)
_HD:_ Seagate 80GB Barracuda 7200.10 SATA2NCQ
_CPU FAN:_Zalman CNPS9700 NT CPU
_Chipset:_ Thermalright HR-05-SLI on *SB* and *NB*
_PSU:_OCZ 600W StealthXStream

*Issue*
I've tried pushing the CPU to 3ghz+, but it stops @ approx. 2950mhz. I've followed the guide step by step. But done some tweaking ever since it got ustable with orthos.

At 2999mhz the machine stops 4 seconds into Orthos @ 1.55v Vcore.
At 2999mhz But with 1.6v NB it goes a couple of minutes before bsod.
At 2931mhz Vcore 1.36v stable as hell. 10 hours of Orthos.
Since so stable at low Vcore, I tried low Vcore with 2999mhz, but couldn't get passed Windows loadscreen.
My current voltages are like the picture displays below. (CPU @ 2931mhz stable)

Temps now are : 52C load / 38C idle.

When using 1.55vcore it's close to 60C load.

*Any suggestions to what I can try to get over 3ghz stable? Or have I reached maximum?*

Thank you alot for reading this.


----------



## pgwalker73

I have had my current box since last August (07). From day one it has had an odd boot issue I would like to resolve. 1st my specs

Bios version 1203 (I THINK i had this issue with other versions I tested a while back)
Vista 32 Ultimate
2.66 ghz Q6700 (currently at 3.2 via a 1280 fsb setting)
4gb Corsair XMS2 Ram Modules
2 Nvidia 8800 Ultras in SLI Mode
P5N32-E SLI mobo
Logitech Trackman Wheel
Logitech G15 Gaming Keyboard
2 250gb Raid configured drives (0)

My issue is that on random boot ups and restarts the computer will fail to start up...power lights and HDD lights come on, but no post screen, power to the keyboards lcd screen etc. Usually a reboot solves the issue and the bios will warn me that last boot was unsuccessful, with the boot/enter setup options.

My current OC is stable under Prime, and I believe this issue happened before I had even clocked my machine.

I have checked the seating of the memory modules, the 2 video cards and the hdd cable.

I would say this happens every 10 startups or so. For a while it was gone for a month or more and has now returned.

Any tips on diagnosing the issue, tracking this down, common causes, etc?

I also have what appear to be intermittent internet connection issues and suspect my DSL modem may be on the fritz, and it occasionally seems the boot issues and internet connection issues come in the same waves.

One other issue of note, is that the CDs in my two dvd drives do not refresh under vista unless you reboot the machine (you can put in a new cd or dvd and even hitting f5 wont refresh the contents.) Don't know if that is a related issue or not.

I had a similar problem on an older box that turned out to have a bad video card (it fried all together one day and once replaced with a new card I never had another boot failure).

Any help, advice would be GREATLY appreciated!

THANKS!


----------



## sirokket16

I've had this problem before. What are your voltages??


----------



## pgwalker73

My Voltages -

Vcore: 1.3875
Mem: 1.9 (the mem volt rating)
1.2V HT: 1.35
NB: 1.4
SB: 1.5
VTT: 1.55

Also mem timings are all on auto. I have also set them to the mem spec timings to no avil.


----------



## Anubis_offline

Is it save to go above V1.6 vcore on air?


----------



## sirokket16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pgwalker73* 
My Voltages -

Vcore: 1.3875
Mem: 1.9 (the mem volt rating)
1.2V HT: 1.35
NB: 1.4
SB: 1.5
VTT: 1.55

Also mem timings are all on auto. I have also set them to the mem spec timings to no avil.

I was having the same issue as you last week. On a cold boot the system would not post. Only after hitting the reset button and receiving an overclocking error message at post could I get into Windows.

I'm not sure if this did the trick for me but you can give it a try. I've read mixed reviews about the Vtt being the main factor in stability on these boards. I've always left mine maxed bc of what Robiliar and many others have said but once I ran into this issue I changed Vtt to 1.25 and Vht to 1.25 and now I no longer have this cold boot issue. I'm not 100% sure that this is what helped, but it certainly seems so to me. Give it a shot and let us know how it works out.

Have you also tried lowering your Vcore after you achieved a stable overclock?


----------



## pgwalker73

I will give that a try, though I do seem to recall having this issue even before I touched anything in the bios, so I somewhat suspect a hardware issue, but I can't guarantee this didn't crop up before I did my OC. And yes, I tried the vcore, my current voltage seems to be the lowest stable setting.

If anyone has any other things I should look at, let me know.

Thanks!


----------



## PersianOverClocker

First of all let me say Hi to all members and thanks for this great topic.








I just finished my system setup 1 hour ago and now want to ask my first series of questions.please kindly answer to them.

1.How can I read my north and south bridge temperature?which software and which item?

2.what is your opinion about new beta bios 1302 ? at the moment I have 103 and want to know is it worth to upgrade to 1302 ?


----------



## Benny99

1203 IS BY FAR THE BEST overclocking bios around. For Quads and Core 2 Duos.

So Many People have problems with this board its Unbelievable.

However ive had very few Problems.

1203 bios + ballistix + E6750 = win


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Benny99* 
1203 IS BY FAR THE BEST overclocking bios around. For Quads and Core 2 Duos.

So Many People have problems with this board its Unbelievable.

However ive had very few Problems.

1203 bios + ballistix + E6750 = win

That's what I hear, that 1203 is the best, but I've had no problems with 1205.


----------



## Benny99

Hear well i can tell u from expereince from 1302 to 1205 to 1203 .

1203 Overclocks the best.

A here is why


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Thanks for your fast replay about 1203 bios.please answer to my first question too :

How can I read my north and south bridge temperature?which software and which item?

also some new questions:

at the moment everest show 1.36 v as cpu core and when I start orthos it change to 1.33 v ?do I need vcore or vdroop ,vdrop mode with pencil ?
what is vcore ,vdrop ,vdroop mode (difference ) ?at the moment I need which one ?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I like to use Everest Ultimate for northbridge temperatures. I don't think there's a sensor near the SB, but it doesn't overheat as much as the NB. Unfortunately, you need to buy Everest; the free version reads too many things erroneously. A free alternative is SpeedFan, but I don't like it at all. Some programs might read NB as "motherboard" temperature.

You don't need to do the pencil mod. Your vDroop is normal. If you are unstable at 1.33v load, you can add more volts. Robilar's experience with the pencil mod is that it dramatically reduces the lifespan of your board.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
I like to use Everest Ultimate for northbridge temperatures. I don't think there's a sensor near the SB, but it doesn't overheat as much as the NB. Unfortunately, you need to buy Everest; the free version reads too many things erroneously. A free alternative is SpeedFan, but I don't like it at all. Some programs might read NB as "motherboard" temperature.

You don't need to do the pencil mod. Your vDroop is normal. If you are unstable at 1.33v load, you can add more volts. Robilar's experience with the pencil mod is that it dramatically reduces the lifespan of your board.


Thanks for your info .Here is the image of what Everest Ultimate show at sensor menu but I can't find NB temperature.is mainboard temp equal to NB temp ?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Yes, that's NB temp.

Your temps seem slightly high across the board. Do you have good cable management and case circulation?


----------



## jtsin67

Has anyone flashed 1403 yet and running a Wolfdale? I am just now bedding in an E8200, simple ooot bsetup so far at 3.2G (chip aint that great a sample and needed 1.4V+ for 4G on my blitz formula) wondering anyone else have any info?


----------



## Benny99

Bios 1403 where is that ?

The latest one from Asus i see is 1302.


----------



## TheWire

OK, went to 1203 from 1205 to try and get further OC from E2180.

If I move the FSB any way up or down from 800 I will get system boot error, even by 2.

Tried different RAM configs(OCZ 800mhz), no joy.

I have come to the conclusion that either there is a problem with my RAM and this BIOS(the problem that 1205 'cured'?) I have tried clearing CMOS, booting with 1 stick, forcing 2T. No joy. Maybe I'll change the sticks positioning.

It could be an issue with my SATA drive and this BIOS, I'll try and boot from DVD I think(IDE), maybe try a different SATA channel.

It could be a bad version of the 1203 BIOS.

Most likely something I have overlooked. Hmm, I managed to clock upto 3ghz on 1205 before getting any problems(adjusted voltages, etc).

Something I did notice that may be insigificant is that on CPU-Z when I left the CPU Vcore to auto(from 1.4V) it reported it as 1.6V. Hmm, used to it under reported. *edit* oh yeah CPU VTT=1.55V, duh*

Been at this for 8 hours now and cant figure it. Wont clock a single bit up or down*edit* 1403 working well for me

I'm at a loss. Help! Anyone! please!*edit* I'd still love to know what the problem was*


----------



## jtsin67

Google it, its up there. So far so good, though CPU-Z reads VTT as VC, it seems to be quite stable and for the 3.2G sitting a little lower VC for me (compared to blitz board). But lot of vdroop on this board so will play with the temps more. I am sure people will find that BIOS and start the tweaking, I know some folks have the E8400 already on this board..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*


Bios 1403 where is that ?

The latest one from Asus i see is 1302.


----------



## jtsin67

ftp://ftp.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/socke...20SLI/1403.zip


----------



## Benny99

Yea i just found it and made a post about it thanks mate

+rep!


----------



## TheWire

Works good for me.... well so far as good as 1205. Could not do much with 1203(above). Now to see how much further I am able to OC my E2180.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Yes, that's NB temp.

Your temps seem slightly high across the board. Do you have good cable management and case circulation?



Thanks for your help.about temp on that time I was checking my overclock with orthos and all temps was high because of stress test.

I would like to know what is the safe temp of cpu (idle and load) for 24/7 overclocked system ?I have E6850 and want to overclock it in a way that I can use it 24/7 .


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*


Bios 1403 where is that ?

The latest one from Asus i see is 1302.


















http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...Language=en-us

Not posted officially, but on the Asus forum for this board there's a link to an Asus FTP with the new BIOS.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


Thanks for your help.about temp on that time I was checking my overclock with orthos and all temps was high because of stress test.

I would like to know what is the safe temp of cpu (idle and load) for 24/7 overclocked system ?I have E6850 and want to overclock it in a way that I can use it 24/7 .


LOL! If you were running Orthos, then those were good temps! For anyone you ask, you'll probably get different answers about what's a good temperature. I'd say anything under 65(c) on the E6850 is acceptable. Anything under 60 is great. I'm running an E6750 on my P5N32-E at 3.6 for around 62-65 at load, and I'm in Florida where ambient is pretty high.

@ Jtsin87, that was FAST at finding the new BIOS revision. I want to try out my E8400 on it right now (but I won't... it's Friday night).


----------



## TheWire

Well, took it E2180 to 3.2Ghz pretty easy in this BIOS though CPU(s) running just too hot(69C load) so went back to 3.0Ghz. Difference in load temperature is 10C and Vcore went from 1.500V to 1.655V(! wow !) surprising IMO, I will work on reducing this though I had to change NB, SB, 1.2V HT Voltage and the passive stock heat sinks were getting WAY too hot IMO, will look into rectifying this though considering the increase in Vcore I'm not too optimistic about getting this far beyond 3.4Ghz on this mobo with good cooling unless I can find a way of reducing voltage consumption.

Time to work on tightening RAM settings... I suck at OCing RAM.

If anyone has any idea's on lowering Vcore or any helping resolve the issues that make the transition from 3Ghz to 3.2Ghz on this board such a pain, I would really love to hear your advice.

Would love to hear how others have faired with this new BIOS, for me it's better than 1205, 1203 just didnt work for me at all.


----------



## pgwalker73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sirokket16* 
I was having the same issue as you last week. On a cold boot the system would not post. Only after hitting the reset button and receiving an overclocking error message at post could I get into Windows.

I'm not sure if this did the trick for me but you can give it a try. I've read mixed reviews about the Vtt being the main factor in stability on these boards. I've always left mine maxed bc of what Robiliar and many others have said but once I ran into this issue I changed Vtt to 1.25 and Vht to 1.25 and now I no longer have this cold boot issue. I'm not 100% sure that this is what helped, but it certainly seems so to me. Give it a shot and let us know how it works out.

Have you also tried lowering your Vcore after you achieved a stable overclock?

I changed to vtt 1.25 and vht to 1.25 and still get this around 20% of my boots. Anyone else have any other ideas?


----------



## rightsideup

Hey people. Have a bit of a problem and hope you guys can help. Have red the whole thread, good reading, took a while hehe, but anyway.

My computer desided to not post at all, no booting, no beep, nothing. Everything seems to be running, but nothing is happening.

Havent had my system for more then two weeks, and I have changed my fsb from 8x333 to 8x375, memory from 667 to 800mhz, timing to 4-4-4-12 1T. mem voltage was increased to 2.1, and cpuVTT to 1.55. Everything else is on auto.

It is not much of a change, just a little to start with to se how it behaved since I am new to OC. Ran very nicely, played games for hours until a couple of days ago. Started nTune and desided to run an optimalisation test over night, set for six hours. So the mashine froze, and after that I couldnt boot.

If anyone has some clues or know what can be wrong I would be very gratefull for any input. And please excuse my spelling hehe.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rightsideup*


Hey people. Have a bit of a problem and hope you guys can help. Have red the whole thread, good reading, took a while hehe, but anyway.

My computer desided to not post at all, no booting, no beep, nothing. Everything seems to be running, but nothing is happening.

Havent had my system for more then two weeks, and I have changed my fsb from 8x333 to 8x375, memory from 667 to 800mhz, timing to 4-4-4-12 1T. mem voltage was increased to 2.1, and cpuVTT to 1.55. Everything else is on auto.

It is not much of a change, just a little to start with to se how it behaved since I am new to OC. Ran very nicely, played games for hours until a couple of days ago. Started nTune and desided to run an optimalisation test over night, set for six hours. So the mashine froze, and after that I couldnt boot.

If anyone has some clues or know what can be wrong I would be very gratefull for any input. And please excuse my spelling hehe.


first of all clear your system Cmos with jumber and then see if your computer post or not .








Ntune test can change system setting if you put it in a way to find your optimized configuration.


----------



## rightsideup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


first of all clear your system Cmos with jumber and then see if your computer post or not .








Ntune test can change system setting if you put it in a way to find your optimized configuration.










I have tried to reset Cmos with the jumper and have taken out the battery as well. Have also tried with each ram stick in every slot, even without ram, and without the drive and video card. 
Have a gut feeling that I have destroyd the cpu or the motherboard


----------



## marky07

Hi folks, Great to not have to reset multi at every re-boot anymore.
Flashed to 1403 no worries. Fired up on basic settings, all went well.
Managed to post at 4GHz but Vista had some issues. Thought it may be vcore so started adding some more bit by bit.
Reached a stage where Windows became so corrupt I had to restore system from full backup. Thank god I had that !!!!
Anyway, now running at 3.84GHz and all seems well. 17,024 from 3DMark06.
Gonna wait now for next BIOS revision before trying 4GHz again.
Anybody else had better luck?
Also, anyone notice the new setting in the BIOS for (something)N/2 I think, supposedly offers more frequency options. I can't find any more frequency options anywhere.
Oh yeah, and SLI still works with 1403.
Regards


----------



## mica3speedy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


Thanks for your help.about temp on that time I was checking my overclock with orthos and all temps was high because of stress test.

I would like to know what is the safe temp of cpu (idle and load) for 24/7 overclocked system ?I have E6850 and want to overclock it in a way that I can use it 24/7 .


you may need to upgrade your nb cooler. even under testing, my motherboard was a cool 22c. I don't have any active cooling (just the stock), but I do have a monster silverstone blowing into my case







Here are my temps with 1.35 vcore under orthos load:


----------



## tomaskir

So, anybody tested hows the 1403 performance and stability wise?

I guess its not really an option tho, simply a have-to-have for a 45nm.


----------



## Vorians

Does anyone here know why changes I made to Memory Timings are ignored in Windows?

And when I make changes to FSB & Memory Config, the settings immediately reset to Auto when I save & exit.

I have the Asus P5N32-E and an Intel E6600 CPU. BIOS is the new 1403.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vorians* 
Does anyone here know why changes I made to Memory Timings are ignored in Windows?

And when I make changes to FSB & Memory Config, the settings immediately reset to Auto when I save & exit.

I have the Asus P5N32-E and an Intel E6600 CPU. BIOS is the new 1403.

I saw some other member have same problem with this new bios on other forums.


----------



## slytown

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vorians* 
Does anyone here know why changes I made to Memory Timings are ignored in Windows?

And when I make changes to FSB & Memory Config, the settings immediately reset to Auto when I save & exit.

I have the Asus P5N32-E and an Intel E6600 CPU. BIOS is the new 1403.

Are you sure you are typing in the right FSB? If you set it wrong the board will automatically set it to the previous setting that worked. What are you typing in?

If it's just a windows-recognizing issue then I assume u mean CPU-z or some other program is posting the wrong settings. Don't rely on those for monitoring. If you go back to BIOS and it's in there correctly, there's no need to worry.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

which version of CoreTemp can be trusted for monitoring cpu temperature ?

until now I use Core Temp 0.95 but today I download the lastest version which is Core Temp 0.96.1 .

now check this two photo which was taken at same time:



















just check Core #0 and Core #1 to see the difference .









I use windows xp pro sp2.


----------



## rightsideup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


first of all clear your system Cmos with jumber and then see if your computer post or not .








Ntune test can change system setting if you put it in a way to find your optimized configuration.










My issue is resolved now, It turned out to be a destroyed motherboard, bought a new one today. Seem kinnda strange though for such a mild Oc, but I guess that's the price you have to pay when tampering with the components.
Anyway, thanks for trying to help


----------



## mica3speedy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


which version of CoreTemp can be trusted for monitoring cpu temperature ?

until now I use Core Temp 0.95 but today I download the lastest version which is Core Temp 0.96.1 .

now check this two photo which was taken at same time:



















just check Core #0 and Core #1 to see the difference .









I use windows xp pro sp2.


for your processor, go with the newer version of core temp. For the processors with the higher Tjunction the old version would read the temps wrong by 15c.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
for your processor, go with the newer version of core temp. For the processors with the higher Tjunction the old version would read the temps wrong by 15c.

Thanks for your answer .I also received answer here :









http://www.alcpu.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=379

as I can see my cpu (E6850) Tj max is 100c instead of 85 so now what is safe temperature ( idle and load )for overclocked system for using it 24/7 ?


----------



## Benny99

Idle should be around 30-40 depending on ure ambient temps

At FULL load try aim for Under 60.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


I saw some other member have same problem with this new bios on other forums.










Can you post the link? I'm considering testing our E8400 on this board, but I'd like to confirm this first.


----------



## jtsin67

2 days with the 1403 BIOS, E8200 with a 1.1125 VID. Readouts under winmonitor (again cpu-z reads the VTT voltage and reports as VCore, latest version...so not relying on it)
VC (1.4 BIOS, 1.36 under load in winxp)
NB 1.52
SB 1.56
VTT 1.21
1.2HT 1.26

Temps hover in low 40's with normal pc use, up to high 50's under prime95.
Found lowering VTT and 1.2HT made it more stable under boot, prime95 seems OK but need to tweak the volts a bit more.
OCZ 6400 memory at 800 5-5-5-15


----------



## Vorians

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slytown* 
Are you sure you are typing in the right FSB? If you set it wrong the board will automatically set it to the previous setting that worked. What are you typing in?

If it's just a windows-recognizing issue then I assume u mean CPU-z or some other program is posting the wrong settings. Don't rely on those for monitoring. If you go back to BIOS and it's in there correctly, there's no need to worry.

I'm not sure, as I'm new to overclocking








I switched from Auto (default) to Linked, and adjusted the ratio to 1:1.
I left the multiplier at 9 (default) and increased the FSB from 1066 (default) to 1200, which should have overclocked to 2.7ghz

Was this wrong? Or could the problem be that this new BIOS has broken the overclock settings, as suggested by PersianOverClocker?

For the RAM changes, yes I was looking in CPU-Z and it showed different settings to what I had used in the BIOS. I'll ignore what CPU-Z says from now on, thanks.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Benny99* 
Idle should be around 30-40 depending on ure ambient temps

At FULL load try aim for Under 60.

The problem is that when I use core temp 0.95 it show my core #0 and Core #1 temp at 34 at idle time and 54 at load but when I use core temp 0.96.1 it show them 49 at idle .My system has very good air system and my cpu cooler is NH-U12F which is very good cooler and when ever I touch it it's cool .
I think 34c at idle is more like to be real that 49 .just think system with very good air system and E6850 as cpu just at 3600 mhz show 49 at idle ???

Tj max for my cpu is 100 instead of 85 which is 15c higher so I should try aim for under 60 at full load or under 75c ?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Can you post the link? I'm considering testing our E8400 on this board, but I'd like to confirm this first.

Here are links from Asus website forum :









Quote:

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...Language=en-us

Quote:

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...Language=en-us

Quote:

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...Language=en-us


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Thanks, REP+.

Going to hold off on testing it until the next revision!


----------



## sirokket16

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pgwalker73*


I changed to vtt 1.25 and vht to 1.25 and still get this around 20% of my boots. Anyone else have any other ideas?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *pgwalker73*


My Voltages -

Vcore: 1.3875
Mem: 1.9 (the mem volt rating)
1.2V HT: 1.35
NB: 1.4
SB: 1.5
VTT: 1.55

Also mem timings are all on auto. I have also set them to the mem spec timings to no avil.


Aside from your Vtt and Vht, the other thing I noticed too was that your Vcore was a little on the high side, comparing yours to what I have seen from others with overclocked Quads. Also, I think your NB might be a little high for your FSB. At 366FSB my NB is around 1.25-1.30 volts. I don't have access to my desktop atm but I will tomorrow and I will post all of my voltage settings so you can see what I am using. I'm using a Dual so I'm not sure how much voltages will differ from what a Quad would need.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


The problem is that when I use core temp 0.95 it show my core #0 and Core #1 temp at 34 at idle time and 54 at load but when I use core temp 0.96.1 it show them 49 at idle .My system has very good air system and my cpu cooler is NH-U12F which is very good cooler and when ever I touch it it's cool .
I think 34c at idle is more like to be real that 49 .just think system with very good air system and E6850 as cpu just at 3600 mhz show 49 at idle ???

Tj max for my cpu is 100 instead of 85 which is 15c higher so I should try aim for under 60 at full load or under 75c ?


I find my all of my answers on the following Article ,I suggest all overclockers read it :









http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...mputronix.html


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Thanks to GoneTomorrow I find EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1261 which show MCP temp.
At the moment my NB temp is 37c to 41c and my SB temp is 50 to 54c









I know that my Sb temp is high but I don't want to take out mainboard from case and apply more arctic silver 5 on it.
I want to know what is safe temp for SB .
also please check your system with EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1261 and post your MCP temp here.

I google EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1261 and find link which work gr8 for me .here is the link :

http://blog.agi82.net/2008/01/everes...8-4201261.html


----------



## avatar1983

Hi all,
I have recently acquired a P5N32-E SLI, and am trying to overclock a Q6600 on it. I realise now that had I done proper research ahead of time, I would have probably gotten a different 680i board for a quad, but never mind that now.

Here is my problem. The board is rock solid at stock, so that's all good. But as soon as I overclock from the stock settings, I will start getting reboots under full load. It will be fine in normal operation, and even when playing games, but prime95 or [email protected] will cause this. Usually it takes 15-30 minutes under load for this to occur. I have tried playing with the voltages quite a bit to alleviate this problem.

I have tried vcore settings up to 1.4 and NB up to 1.5 for 333*9=3000. I have also tried up to the same voltages for 300*9=2700, leaving my RAM set to it's specified voltage, frequency and timing at all times.

I have also tried leaving all the voltages at auto, where at 333*9 the FSB voltage is reported at 1.32 and the vcore as 1.31 by everest. These settings also cause the reboot problem.

I'm reluctant to increase the voltages any further, as I'm starting to go over 60Â° load temperatures with these settings. Also, reading many forums about Q6600's and P5N32-E's, it seems 1.4 vcore should be plenty to achieve 3Ghz.

I have also experimented with setting the CPU VTT voltage to 1.55 as suggested in the OP, but that causes blue screen at windows boot for anything above stock settings, so I've left it at auto.

Other system information which may be helpful:
BIOS: 1203 (can't POST the board beyond 300FSB with _any_ other bios revision)
CPU Stepping: G0
Windows fully patched
Memtest reports no errors

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *avatar1983*


Hi all,
I have recently acquired a P5N32-E SLI, and am trying to overclock a Q6600 on it. I realise now that had I done proper research ahead of time, I would have probably gotten a different 680i board for a quad, but never mind that now.

Here is my problem. The board is rock solid at stock, so that's all good. But as soon as I overclock from the stock settings, I will start getting reboots under full load. It will be fine in normal operation, and even when playing games, but prime95 or [email protected] will cause this. Usually it takes 15-30 minutes under load for this to occur. I have tried playing with the voltages quite a bit to alleviate this problem.

I have tried vcore settings up to 1.4 and NB up to 1.5 for 333*9=3000. I have also tried up to the same voltages for 300*9=2700, leaving my RAM set to it's specified voltage, frequency and timing at all times.

I have also tried leaving all the voltages at auto, where at 333*9 the FSB voltage is reported at 1.32 and the vcore as 1.31 by everest. These settings also cause the reboot problem.

I'm reluctant to increase the voltages any further, as I'm starting to go over 60Â° load temperatures with these settings. Also, reading many forums about Q6600's and P5N32-E's, it seems 1.4 vcore should be plenty to achieve 3Ghz.

I have also experimented with setting the CPU VTT voltage to 1.55 as suggested in the OP, but that causes blue screen at windows boot for anything above stock settings, so I've left it at auto.

Other system information which may be helpful:
BIOS: 1203 (can't POST the board beyond 300FSB with _any_ other bios revision)
CPU Stepping: G0
Windows fully patched
Memtest reports no errors

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


check your bios and your memory setting ,it should be unlink not linked








also do you have active cooling on NB and SB (SPP & MCP)?


----------



## sirokket16

@ pgwalker73

My voltages are as follows for 366*8 = 2933MHz:

Vcore 1.325
NB 1.35
SB 1.50
Vht 1.25
Vtt 1.25

I am also using Bios 1203. I believe there are some bad versions of this Bios out there because when I first tried it I kept freezing while in the Bios.

I'm going to shoot back to 400 when I get some time maybe this weekend after I get through my course work. I'll let you know how it goes.


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


check your bios and your memory setting ,it should be unlink not linked








also do you have active cooling on NB and SB (SPP & MCP)?


They are of course unlinked, and manually set to 1333 fsb and 800 ddr respectively.

I have stuck a 40mm fan on the northbridge, blowing on to the heat sink. I don't think heat there is the issue, as the temperature tops out at 27 on stock and about 32 on overclock.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *avatar1983*


They are of course unlinked, and manually set to 1333 fsb and 800 ddr respectively.

I have stuck a 40mm fan on the northbridge, blowing on to the heat sink. I don't think heat there is the issue, as the temperature tops out at 27 on stock and about 32 on overclock.


download EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1261 from post 4384 and take screenshot from Computer >Sensor and post it here .









EVEREST Ultimate Edition from version 4.20.1261 and newer show true value about temps.


----------



## Benny99

Avatar1983

Q6600 + P5N32-E SLI = bad combo due to regulation voltages for Quads on this board. THE other 680i eg from EVGA A1 have this problem fixed however Asus havnt.

U will struggle to get 3ghz and getting more than that stable is doubtful.

core 2 Duos will overclock pretty good as u can see by my sig rig 3.7ghz 24/7 on air.


----------



## abe_joker

Hey guys i have my CPU overclocked to 2925.0mhz or 2.9ghz. Voltages are:

Vcore: 1.3125v
CPUVTT: 1.55
NB: 1.40
SB: 1.55
and mem = 2.1v

Question is: look at the screenshot...everest tells me the Cores temps are too high and CoreTemp tells the same...but speedFan tells another thing...
Im so confused...

and btw, it's happening with my video card too...Rivatuner says one thing but GPU-z says another :S


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


download EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1261 from post 4384 and take screenshot from Computer >Sensor and post it here .









EVEREST Ultimate Edition from version 4.20.1261 and newer show true value about temps.










Ok, I have done this. I was using everest anyway, didn't know that 1261 changed the temperatures reported. This MCP temperature at 60Â° idle stock, what is it? The south bridge? Anyway, image is attached.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*

Q6600 + P5N32-E SLI = bad combo due to regulation voltages for Quads on this board. THE other 680i eg from EVGA A1 have this problem fixed however Asus havnt.

U will struggle to get 3ghz and getting more than that stable is doubtful.

core 2 Duos will overclock pretty good as u can see by my sig rig 3.7ghz 24/7 on air.


Well, I know now that it is difficult with quads on this board. However, I can not even reach 2.7 stable, which is something I would have liked.

May have to get a different board when I can afford it...


----------



## Benny99

Why are u running 1T on ure Memory...

if ure running stock it should be 4-4-4-15-2T


----------



## abe_joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*


Why are u running 1T on ure Memory...

if ure running stock it should be 4-4-4-15-2T


me?


----------



## Benny99

No Avartar1983 in his SIG RIG 4-4-4-15-1T


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Benny99* 
Why are u running 1T on ure Memory...

if ure running stock it should be 4-4-4-15-2T

That's what it is rated for, and what gets set by the auto options when I get the board to read the EPP. (SLI Ready Memory CPUOC 0% setting in the bios).

Also, I have run a number of tests to eliminate memory as the source of the problems, by running memtest86+ and prime95 in blend mode at various settings. The system is completely stable with these ram settings, as long as fsb and cpu settings are at stock.

So you think that this can have an impact on my ability to overclock the cpu and fsb, and backing off to 2T or looser timings would help system stability when overclocking the cpu?


----------



## Benny99

YES 1T is stressful i dont know how ure ram can be rated for 1T.

go back to 2T and see how u go. First get ure CPU overclock then fiddle with ure memory.


----------



## Benny99

And btw ure MCP is ure Northbridge voltage.










That is Mine at 3.7ghz with 1.5v on the NB however im using The Thermaltake Spirits II on the NB and SB, and my ambient temp is 25 today. Ambient temp makes a huge difference on temps.


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Benny99* 
YES 1T is stressful i dont know how ure ram can be rated for 1T.

go back to 2T and see how u go. First get ure CPU overclock then fiddle with ure memory.

Well, I didn't so much fiddle with it as leave it alone, but I'll try 2T. I have, by the way, successfully run 2 passes of memtest86+ at 333*9=3Ghz and the ram settings in my profile, with no problems reported.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Benny99*
And btw ure MCP is ure Northbridge voltage.

I assume you mean MCP is northbridge temperature, not voltage, here.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Benny99*
That is Mine at 3.7ghz with 1.5v on the NB however im using The Thermaltake Spirits II on the NB and SB, and my ambient temp is 25 today. Ambient temp makes a huge difference on temps.

I have been thinking about these as well, actually. When you replace the heatpipe system with these, did you put heatsinks or spreaders of any kind on the mosfets and other components covered by the fin parts of the heatpipe system near the cpu socket?


----------



## Benny99

Yea i meant the Temp not the voltage my mistake.

Um yes u have to remove the whole heatpipes and the Mosfets.

The heatpipes are attached using thermal tape and push pins.

If u do decide to install new Coolers do not use Artic Silver 5. Use a thermal compound which inst conductive. ( Arctic MX-2 is a good choice)

With The Mosfet Cooling i didnt use any Cooling on them as they are not hot when i touch them.

U can also get a Antec Spot cooling Fan which is good and u can put it ontop of the Mosfets.

http://www.antec.com/uk/productDetails.php?ProdID=75018

However my airflow and case cooling is good Antec 900 ftw.


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Benny99* 
Um yes u have to remove the whole heatpipes and the Mosfets.

Yes, I know you have to remove the whole heatpipe system if you install any aftermarket cooling on the north- or southbridge.

I was just wondering if you replaced those two parts (i.e. not the north- and southbridge themselves, but the components covered by the finned sinks at the other ends of the pipes) with new heatsinks of some kind, or just left them bare. Sorry if I wasn't clear.


----------



## Benny99

The Parts that will be left bare will be the mosfets u can leave them Bare or u can install Mosfet Heatsinks or A Antec Spot cool fan over them.


----------



## rusbadboy

Not sure whether this should go here but I have a problem with my P5N32-E SLI, i had tried to change the RAM timings to 4-4-4-12 and now the comp wont even POST. I tried clearing CMOS via the jumper and even removed the backup battery and removed all power from the pc for a long period of time. Still I dont get any beeps or see the POST screen.























All fans (CPU, case, GPU etc) turn on. The GPU (8800 GTS) fan is on maximum, which it is only meant to stay on for a few seconds and then slow down to normal performance.

I have removed all RAM and tried to boot, still nothing. I tried one stick at a time in every slot, still nothing.

I haven't tempered with anything else. Can you let me know whether the RAM has fried or the mobo? Also does anyone know what fried RAM looks like, is it easy to spot?
















Cheers and thanks in advance.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *abe_joker*


Hey guys i have my CPU overclocked to 2925.0mhz or 2.9ghz. Voltages are:

Vcore: 1.3125v
CPUVTT: 1.55
NB: 1.40
SB: 1.55
and mem = 2.1v

Question is: look at the screenshot...everest tells me the Cores temps are too high and CoreTemp tells the same...but speedFan tells another thing...
Im so confused...

and btw, it's happening with my video card too...Rivatuner says one thing but GPU-z says another :S


please read this article for your answer :

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...mputronix.html

some program like speedfan need correction .EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1261 beta and newer beta version show all parameters correctly .

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*


Why are u running 1T on ure Memory...

if ure running stock it should be 4-4-4-15-2T


OCZ ram can operate at 1T with P5N32-E SLI .My ram at the moment operate at 4-4-4-8 800MHZ when I overclock my system.

you should first overclock your cpu and then change your ram timeing .


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*


And btw ure MCP is ure Northbridge voltage.










That is Mine at 3.7ghz with 1.5v on the NB however im using The Thermaltake Spirits II on the NB and SB, and my ambient temp is 25 today. Ambient temp makes a huge difference on temps.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *avatar1983*


I assume you mean MCP is northbridge temperature, not voltage, here.


*Attention : *

*MCP = SB = South Bridge 
SPP = NB = North Bridge*

*when you use EVEREST Ultimate Edition it show NB (North Bridge) as mainboard temperature . *


----------



## rusbadboy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rusbadboy*


Not sure whether this should go here but I have a problem with my P5N32-E SLI, i had tried to change the RAM timings to 4-4-4-12 and now the comp wont even POST. I tried clearing CMOS via the jumper and even removed the backup battery and removed all power from the pc for a long period of time. Still I dont get any beeps or see the POST screen.























All fans (CPU, case, GPU etc) turn on. The GPU (8800 GTS) fan is on maximum, which it is only meant to stay on for a few seconds and then slow down to normal performance.

I have removed all RAM and tried to boot, still nothing. I tried one stick at a time in every slot, still nothing.

I haven't tempered with anything else. Can you let me know whether the RAM has fried or the mobo? Also does anyone know what fried RAM looks like, is it easy to spot?
















Cheers and thanks in advance.


P.S. My specs are:

Q6600 (Zalman fan)
4GB Kingston 667
TruePower Trio 550Watt PSU
8800 GTS 512

P.P.S. The system worked fine prior to changing the memory timings.

Lastly, I had applied the following settings in BIOS prior to the stuff up:

Quote:



AI Tuning: Manual
Nvidia GPU Ex: Disabled
LinkBoost: Disabled

FSB - Memory Clock Mode: Unlinked
x FSB - Memory Ratio: N/A
FSB (QDR), Mhz: 1700 (means 425FSB)
Actual FSB (QDR), Mhz: 1700
MEM (DDR), Mhz: 800 (means 400mhz speeds)
Actual MEM (DDR), Mhz: 880.2

Vcore Voltage: AUTO
Memory Voltage: 2AUTO
1.2v HT Voltage: AUTO
NB Core Voltage: AUTO
SB Core Voltage: AUTO
CPU VTT Voltage: AUTO
DDRII Controller Ref Voltage: AUTO
DDRII Channel A Ref Voltage: AUTO
DDRII Channel B Ref Voltage: AUTO

tCL (CAS Latency): 4
tRCD: 4
tRP: 4
tRAS: 8
Command Per Clock (CMD): 2 clock (2T)

Advance Memory Settings
tRRD: AUTO
tRC: AUTO
tWR: AUTO
tWTR: AUTO
tREF: AUTO
Async Latency: AUTO


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


*Attention : *

*MCP = SB = South Bridge 
SPP = NB = North Bridge*

*when you use EVEREST Ultimate Edition it show NB (North Bridge) as mainboard temperature . *



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*

And btw ure MCP is ure Northbridge [temperature].


Right, I'm slightly confused now, as the two of you have conflicting information. Googling seems to indicate that yes, the MCP is the southbridge. In particular, there is a thread on the everest forums:
http://www.lavalys.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2917

In there the lavalys staff confirm that the MCP sensor is in the southbridge, and the motherboard sensor is in the IT8718F super-io chip directly, not the northbridge.

Also, the northbridge heatsink is warm, but the copper block on the southbridge is quite hot to the touch.

So maybe I'm experiencing a temperature issue in the chipset when it reboots?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*

OCZ ram can operate at 1T with P5N32-E SLI .My ram at the moment operate at 4-4-4-8 800MHZ when I overclock my system.

you should first overclock your cpu and then change your ram timeing .


Well, as I said before, the 4-4-4-15 T1 timings are what where set automatically. The OCZ product page for my modules confirms they are rated for these timings, including T1:

http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...n_dual_channel

Anyway, if people think it will help, I'm happy to back of to T2. I don't know if it will make much difference, as I can pass memtest86+ with these settings, even when the fsb is set to 333.

Will experiment with T2 timings today and see how it goes.

Thanks a lot for the help so far, by the way. This community is ace!


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*


The Parts that will be left bare will be the mosfets u can leave them Bare or u can install Mosfet Heatsinks or A Antec Spot cool fan over them.


Do you think that is necessary on this board / did you do that?


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rusbadboy*


Not sure whether this should go here but I have a problem with my P5N32-E SLI, i had tried to change the RAM timings to 4-4-4-12 and now the comp wont even POST. I tried clearing CMOS via the jumper and even removed the backup battery and removed all power from the pc for a long period of time. Still I dont get any beeps or see the POST screen.























All fans (CPU, case, GPU etc) turn on. The GPU (8800 GTS) fan is on maximum, which it is only meant to stay on for a few seconds and then slow down to normal performance.

I have removed all RAM and tried to boot, still nothing. I tried one stick at a time in every slot, still nothing.

I haven't tempered with anything else. Can you let me know whether the RAM has fried or the mobo? Also does anyone know what fried RAM looks like, is it easy to spot?
















Cheers and thanks in advance.


Try removing the ram completely, and starting up the system. If you get beeps, then board is probably fine.

I have also read (in the OP) that this board sometimes undervolts ram. This can be an issue if your ram is touchy, and has prevented some people from posting until the got into the bios using different ram and set the voltages manually. Sometimes it apparently helps to use only one module, try all the different slots. If you get to the bios, manually set your ram's rated voltage in the overvoltage setting, put it all back and see if that helps. This is the relevant bit of the OP:

Quote:



Important!: Always set ram voltage manually upon first boot. This board undervolts memory from factory settings when left to auto. For example, my ram is rated stock at 2.1 Volts. The auto setting had it running at 1.89. Even though my system ran fine, I had occasional crashes until I changed the volts to 2.1 manually.

Worse, many types of ram will not work correctly with this board if they are undervolted. If the system will not boot on initial build, try one stick in the slot closest to the cpu until it boots and enter the bios. Immediately change the ram voltage to defaults for the memory you are using. Save,shut down, install the rest of your ram and then reboot normally.

For those of you that do not think "SLI Ready" and "EPP Profile" RAM have any value, think again!. One thing the 680i boards have shown is that they are finicky on what RAM they like for stable overclocks. Any RAM that has one or both of the above designations demonstrates that this RAM has been tested specifically for compatibility with the 680i chipset boards. Also as long as you get OCZ or Corsair PC2-8500 or better, it will most likely have Micron D9 IC's which as we all know are the best for Overclocking.


----------



## rusbadboy

i have just removed all RAM and the video card and disconnected all drives except the main IDE one. I get no beeps. I get no POST and cant get into BIOS. Does this mean the mobo is dead?

UPDATE:

Just pulled the whole comp apart and put the mobo on wooden floor and powered it up with CPU only. I checked the CPU first, it doesn't appear to be fried, no burn marks no discoloration, no burn odour. I still got no beeps.... is the mobo fried????


----------



## Joe_Lost

Wow, 441 pages of posts. That should be worrying or encouraging.

I have not read every one of the threads here, but I am posting for help.

Please take a look at the system below, and I am assuming that it can be seen. These were all new components. I fired this up and got it going with everything at standard for a while. I was even able to load Win XP Professional and start downloading some of the software that I wanted from the net.









Suddenly this thing started to lock up randomly. This would take 2 minutes to 15 minutes from startup.









I read around. I saw a lot of forum comments about this MoBo and RAM voltage issues. Now I am running this system at 1.875v for the RAM (Stock is 2.2v) and I cut the Northbridge voltage to 1.40v (It was running at 1.52v on Auto).

I was able to play several hours of Battlefield 2142, last night, without a glitch. Yet some of the normal programmes that I run, iexplorer, word, etc. still crash randomly. Battlefield 2 also had an issue.









What worries me is that I am not even trying to overclock this thing yet and already I have to fiddle.









I will test out some of the â€œEnableâ€ and Disableâ€-settings that are mentioned early on here. I will also upgrade the bios to the 1302.

I am still concerned that I will have random crashes. My aim is to get a stable and basic starting point, then OC later.

Can you help advise??


----------



## abe_joker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker* 
please read this article for your answer :

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...mputronix.html

some program like speedfan need correction .EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1261 beta and newer beta version show all parameters correctly .

I read the article...but still, i have everest 4.20.1292 beta...and for example is showing my MCP in 72c when i have my Extreme Spirits II there...also the core temps are really high and the air in the case is chill...

And besides, my GPU temp is in 42c and i have a DuOrb II...


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *avatar1983* 
Do you think that is necessary on this board / did you do that?

when you want to overclock with P5N32-E SLI you *must* have active cooling on North Bridge and South Bridge .Also you must put headsink for mosfets near cpu (left and above).it means when you replace NB and SB headsink you should put some headsink on other side of pip which you replace it.

you can test the heat by putting your finger on them when the system is on (be carefull they will be so hot )

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Joe_Lost* 
Wow, 441 pages of posts. That should be worrying or encouraging.

I have not read every one of the threads here, but I am posting for help.

Please take a look at the system below, and I am assuming that it can be seen. These were all new components. I fired this up and got it going with everything at standard for a while. I was even able to load Win XP Professional and start downloading some of the software that I wanted from the net.









Suddenly this thing started to lock up randomly. This would take 2 minutes to 15 minutes from startup.









I read around. I saw a lot of forum comments about this MoBo and RAM voltage issues. Now I am running this system at 1.875v for the RAM (Stock is 2.2v) and I cut the Northbridge voltage to 1.40v (It was running at 1.52v on Auto).

I was able to play several hours of Battlefield 2142, last night, without a glitch. Yet some of the normal programmes that I run, iexplorer, word, etc. still crash randomly. Battlefield 2 also had an issue.









What worries me is that I am not even trying to overclock this thing yet and already I have to fiddle.









I will test out some of the "Enable" and Disable"-settings that are mentioned early on here. I will also upgrade the bios to the 1302.

I am still concerned that I will have random crashes. My aim is to get a stable and basic starting point, then OC later.

Can you help advise??









first of all change your ram voltage to 2.1 or 2.2 .

Quote:


Originally Posted by *abe_joker* 
I read the article...but still, i have everest 4.20.1292 beta...and for example is showing my MCP in 72c when i have my Extreme Spirits II there...also the core temps are really high and the air in the case is chill...

And besides, my GPU temp is in 42c and i have a DuOrb II...

Here is my system EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1297 sensor page :










as you can see my MCP is now 50C but yesterday it was 86c







so I just remove the MCP cooler and applay AS 5 again and also O place termaltake 80*80 fan over it in a way that it push air directly to my Thermallight HR-05 SLI which is on MCP.









please note that I use EVEREST Ultimate Edition in windows xp sp 2.
if you read this article http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...mputronix.html then you should know :

Quote:

Depending upon Stepping, the Delta between Tcase and Tjunction is 10c +/- 3 (or) 15c +/- 3.
Tcase = Cpu Temp
Tjunction = Core temp

as you can see my cpu temp is 30c and my cores them is 42,43 . My cpu Stepping is G0
42-30 = 12 = (10c +/- 3)= G0 stepping(CPU-Z) , so the value is true.


----------



## Joe_Lost

OK, sorry Persian, but you are not reading well. At 2.2v I was locking up randomly. Even Crucial recommended that I volt down to 2.0 or below. At 1.875v I am getting the best stability that my limited abilities can manage.

What I need is some constructive advice. Please read and, gladly, ask questions. I need help.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Joe_Lost* 
(SNIP!)
What I need is some constructive advice. Please read and, gladly, ask questions. I need help.

What is the nature of your crashes? Are they lock-ups, CTD, BSOD? What is the event log reporting?

Have you run your RAM through memtest at that voltage? Are you using EPP (SLI memory)? Are you running UNLINKED? What are your RAM speed and timings?


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Joe_Lost* 
OK, sorry Persian, but you are not reading well. At 2.2v I was locking up randomly. Even Crucial recommended that I volt down to 2.0 or below. At 1.875v I am getting the best stability that my limited abilities can manage.

What I need is some constructive advice. Please read and, gladly, ask questions. I need help.


Sorry for my mistake.
Here is my suggestion :
1.load default bios in your bios. then restart (see if you have problem again or not
if yes:
2.download bios 1203 and update your bios to 1203 via floppy or usb (ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...20SLI/1203.zip)
3.go to bios and load default bios again with this new version.

you should be able to boot and work with system normally.if not check your hardware monitoring menu in bios and check temps and voltage .write your temps and voltage from monitoring menu of bios and post it here.

my first aim is to help you start and work with your system normally and them we discuss about overclocking.


----------



## Joe_Lost

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
What is the nature of your crashes? Are they lock-ups, CTD, BSOD? What is the event log reporting?

Have you run your RAM through memtest at that voltage? Are you using EPP (SLI memory)? Are you running UNLINKED? What are your RAM speed and timings?

Click on the Games Rig and you will get most of your answers.

They were full "LOCK-UPS". On re-start it reported a serious crash based on hardware.

With the new voltages I just get a "Not responding" and have to shut down the programmes, so far just Iexplorer and a download. It reports a hardware issue. These are rarer now, but still ferquent enough to be concerned.

The odd thing was the hours of BF2142 at top Video and Audio with the Gcards set at SLi and not so much as a twitch.

No I have not done a memtest. That will be tonight.

The RAM is SLi(EPP), 8500(at 1066Mhz), 5-5-5-15-2T. I hope that helps you help me.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I have the same RAM, as you can see sigged. Memtest will be important because I could never run the RAM with that little volts.

Persian is correct that 1203 is probably the best BIOS for you. It's the most stable, with 1403 adding only Wolfdale support (with some reported problems). 1203 is rock solid unless you have Razer devices, which it looks like you don't.

As I said, I ran my RAM at 2.25 on the P5N32-E. It was necessary for me because I have four modules, but it should be fine all the way up to 2.3v (which I've also run at). I'm just mentioning this in case you fail memtest and think you might need to increase this.


----------



## Joe_Lost

As I mentioned, 2.2v caused lock-ups. It may be other voltage issues.

When I get home I will do a full post of voltages.


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rusbadboy*


i have just removed all RAM and the video card and disconnected all drives except the main IDE one. I get no beeps. I get no POST and cant get into BIOS. Does this mean the mobo is dead?

UPDATE:

Just pulled the whole comp apart and put the mobo on wooden floor and powered it up with CPU only. I checked the CPU first, it doesn't appear to be fried, no burn marks no discoloration, no burn odour. I still got no beeps.... is the mobo fried????


That sounds a bit worrying for your board. However, and this is important: did you have a speaker plugged in when you powered it up on the floor?

There is a little header, speaker, on the front panel connector. You need to plug something in there to get beeps.

Sorry if that sounds silly, but the amount of little niggling stuff I have overlooked, you wouldn't believe.


----------



## arjo_reich

Quote:


Originally Posted by *avatar1983* 
Ok, I have done this. I was using everest anyway, didn't know that 1261 changed the temperatures reported. This MCP temperature at 60Â° idle stock, what is it? The south bridge? Anyway, image is attached.

The MCP value is the MCP55PXE (Southbridge) temperature.

60C on stock coolers is actually pretty good for the craptastic stock coolers they use. My southbridge was reading upper 80's in celsius using a infrared thermometer and my northbridge was reading upwards of 97C in stock idle conditions before I upgraded the coolers on the MOSFETs and bridges...


----------



## arjo_reich

_Quote:_


Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker* 
*Attention :*

*MCP = SB = South Bridge
SPP = NB = North Bridge*

*when you use EVEREST Ultimate Edition it show NB (North Bridge) as mainboard temperature .*


IIRC, the "motherboard" reading should most likely be off your IT8718F chipset located in the upper right-hand corner of the motherboard, near your RAM... not your northbridge.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arjo_reich* 

IIRC, the "motherboard" reading should most likely be off your IT8718F chipset located in the upper right-hand corner of the motherboard, near your RAM... not your northbridge.

can you show it (IT8718F chipset) on this image of P5N32-E SLI :


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker* 
can you show it (IT8718F chipset) on this image of P5N32-E SLI :



In the red circle on the bottom right.


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arjo_reich* 
The MCP value is the MCP55PXE (Southbridge) temperature.

60C on stock coolers is actually pretty good for the craptastic stock coolers they use. My southbridge was reading upper 80's in celsius using a infrared thermometer and my northbridge was reading upwards of 97C in stock idle conditions before I upgraded the coolers on the MOSFETs and bridges...

I wonder if you can fit a spirit II on the southbridge when you have two GTX and an creative x-fi extreme gamer in the pci slot. Any experience, anyone? Also, what mosfet coolers did you use?

And did you manage to overclock that Q6600 of yours?


----------



## rusbadboy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *avatar1983* 
That sounds a bit worrying for your board. However, and this is important: did you have a speaker plugged in when you powered it up on the floor?

There is a little header, speaker, on the front panel connector. You need to plug something in there to get beeps.

Sorry if that sounds silly, but the amount of little niggling stuff I have overlooked, you wouldn't believe.

Yeah I plugged everything in. No beeps. So since its still under warranty for another month (I bought it in late March last year), I'm taking it back to the shop today for them to test it and most likely RTM. Hopefully that fixes my woes. Thanks for the help.


----------



## arjo_reich

Quote:


Originally Posted by *avatar1983* 
I wonder if you can fit a spirit II on the southbridge when you have two GTX and an creative x-fi extreme gamer in the pci slot. Any experience, anyone? Also, what mosfet coolers did you use?

And did you manage to overclock that Q6600 of yours?

I don't know about the soundcard (pretty sure not) but there is still *some* room...


----------



## mica3speedy

Do you guys think I need active cooling for the nb or sb? See picture attached for temps under blend in orthos. Also, in order to get a 24 hour run in orthos, I had to disable some scans, like Defender, Avg, and defrag. Orthos would run fine all day but then windows would either bsod or lock up sometime during the night. When I disabled them I was able to get 24 hours stable. Is this an issue I should be concerned with?


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arjo_reich* 
I don't know about the soundcard (pretty sure not) but there is still *some* room...

How much room is there on the pci side of the southbridge, if any? See the attached image to see how much the creative extreme gamer overhangs the stock copper block (it's the thin card in the middle).


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
Do you guys think I need active cooling for the nb or sb? See picture attached for temps under blend in orthos. Also, in order to get a 24 hour run in orthos, I had to disable some scans, like Defender, Avg, and defrag. Orthos would run fine all day but then windows would either bsod or lock up sometime during the night. When I disabled them I was able to get 24 hours stable. Is this an issue I should be concerned with?

Well, compared to mine, yours is pretty cool. I get 60Â° on the MCP minimum, and usually 25+ degrees on the motherboard sensor. And that is at stock.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *avatar1983* 
I wonder if you can fit a spirit II on the southbridge when you have two GTX and an creative x-fi extreme gamer in the pci slot. Any experience, anyone? Also, what mosfet coolers did you use?

And did you manage to overclock that Q6600 of yours?

Read the guide (first post) and you will find that NO Creative Xfi card will fit with the Spirit II on your Southbridge. You have to compromise and try another brand of soundcard like bluegears and HT Omega (both companies' cards will fit with the Spirit)

And the GTX might pose a bit of a space issue for the SB Spirit. If you sift through the pages here (I'll find it later if I can), you'll find a post where a user actually had to mod his GTX and cut a portion of the HSF duct.

For MOSFET coolers, and anodized aluminum/copper RAM heatsinks will work. Swiftech sells kits for MOSFETs, but they're pricey. I just used some copper RAM heatsinks ($8) and they work perfectly.

EDIT: found it - http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ml#post3253888


----------



## arjo_reich

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
Do you guys think I need active cooling for the nb or sb? See picture attached for temps under blend in orthos. Also, in order to get a 24 hour run in orthos, I had to disable some scans, like Defender, Avg, and defrag. Orthos would run fine all day but then windows would either bsod or lock up sometime during the night. When I disabled them I was able to get 24 hours stable. Is this an issue I should be concerned with?

At stock speeds, using a stock intel (downward-push styled) cooler, you can get away with stock coolers on the north and south bridge.

If you have a tower-styled cpu heatsink that is not blowing air down, but rather across it, you'll need to actively cool the heatsink on the northbridge, which will require replacing the coolers over three of the mosfets as well. With my TRUE my stock northbridge temp was 97C because there was not enough active airflow - and because their stock thermal adhesive (and it is adhesive, not compound) is about as thermally conductive as rubber. Pure ****, IMHO... Also, if you overclock, at all, the stock heatsinks will also begin to cause you problems right out the gate.

Since there's no sensors for the northbridge, get yourself an infrared thermometer (30-100 USD) and check your northbridge, if it's already in the 80-100C range, you probably need to consider it.

Problem is that it can get costly. Two Tt Spirit II Extremes & two Thermalright HR-09S/U *(type II)** cost me about $100 USD all said and done, and that was fairly competative pricing.

Still, for logevity and stability, it's a drop in the bucket.

Pictures of the POS Thermal Adhesive they used...


----------



## Benny99

Thermalright HR-09S/U *(type II)

WTB someone to ship me them from USA to Aus

Can only get type 1 in Aus!


----------



## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rusbadboy*


Not sure whether this should go here but I have a problem with my P5N32-E SLI, i had tried to change the RAM timings to 4-4-4-12 and now the comp wont even POST. I tried clearing CMOS via the jumper and even removed the backup battery and removed all power from the pc for a long period of time. Still I dont get any beeps or see the POST screen.























All fans (CPU, case, GPU etc) turn on. The GPU (8800 GTS) fan is on maximum, which it is only meant to stay on for a few seconds and then slow down to normal performance.

I have removed all RAM and tried to boot, still nothing. I tried one stick at a time in every slot, still nothing.

I haven't tempered with anything else. Can you let me know whether the RAM has fried or the mobo? Also does anyone know what fried RAM looks like, is it easy to spot?
















Cheers and thanks in advance.


Does the green light come on showing a power connection first?

Then check all your power connections. Since the only thing you did was change the timings, it shouldn't have fried anything. If you changed the voltage on your RAM that would do it though.

Is your mobo new? Did you just build this tower? The first thing you have to do with this mobo is manually set the RAM voltage to factory default, since the board undervolts. Also before overclocking you need to update your BIOS.


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow*


Read the guide (first post) and you will find that NO Creative Xfi card will fit with the Spirit II on your Southbridge. You have to compromise and try another brand of soundcard like bluegears and HT Omega (both companies' cards will fit with the Spirit)

And the GTX might pose a bit of a space issue for the SB Spirit. If you sift through the pages here (I'll find it later if I can), you'll find a post where a user actually had to mod his GTX and cut a portion of the HSF duct.

For MOSFET coolers, and anodized aluminum/copper RAM heatsinks will work. Swiftech sells kits for MOSFETs, but they're pricey. I just used some copper RAM heatsinks ($8) and they work perfectly.

EDIT: found it - http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ml#post3253888


Ah, that's very useful, thanks. I'm now looking at a Thermalright HR-05 SLI for the southbridge: 
http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa...50aHVzaWFzdA==

Looks like I may be able to fit that in at an angle.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *avatar1983*


In the red circle on the bottom right.


I think something is not right about this mainboard temprature.
my mainboard temp was 44 . I have spirit II on Northbridge so I place another 40mm fan behinde it and now it change to 40-41 .How can you explain it ?
there is far distance between NB and that chipset that you point.there is now way that this 40 mm fan have effect on that chip.


----------



## Sylence

I managed to fit a TRUE, 2 HR-05 (SLI and IFX/SLI), an X-Fi-fatal1ty and active cooling on both NB and my TRUE. It's kinda cramped but it's doing A LOT better then w/ passive. Also it means that i can't fit RAM in the 2 slots closest to my CPU which kinda sucks. I have no idea how you could even go about active NB cooling with SLI. Seems nigh impossible.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sylence*


I managed to fit a TRUE, 2 HR-05 (SLI and IFX/SLI), an X-Fi-fatal1ty and active cooling on both NB and my TRUE. It's kinda cramped but it's doing A LOT better then w/ passive. Also it means that i can't fit RAM in the 2 slots closest to my CPU which kinda sucks. I have no idea how you could even go about active NB cooling with SLI. Seems nigh impossible.



Here is some pgoto from Robilar system :


----------



## avatar1983

Well, to report back about my original problem. (reboots under full load at any overclock)

I have relaxed my memory command rate to T2.

I have also managed to get some extra airflow over the fins at the top of the board, cooling the southbridge via the heatpipe.

Not sure which one of these did it, but I can now achieve 300*9=2700 stable.

I'm still working on 3Ghz.

I have now invested in two Thermalright HR-05 SLI IFX chipset coolers (http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa...50aHVzaWFzdA==), after taking a ruler to my board and measuring space a lot! I think I should be able to fit one on the north- and southbridge each. I can probably fit the souhbridge one at an ange between the bottom video card and the soundcard. The northbridge should have just enough space between the top videocard and the scythe infinity. Will let everyone know how it goes.


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


I think something is not right about this mainboard temprature.
my mainboard temp was 44 . I have spirit II on Northbridge so I place another 40mm fan behinde it and now it change to 40-41 .How can you explain it ?
there is far distance between NB and that chipset that you point.there is now way that this 40 mm fan have effect on that chip.










I'm just saying what I read on the lavalys forum. One of the lavalys staff said that on the P5N32-E specifically the sensor reported as Motherboard by Everest is in the ITE chip. They also said it was one of the very few boards MCE temperature monitoring was possible, as it's not an official part of the nForce 6 spec.

Here is the link:

http://www.lavalys.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2917

Look at posts up to 4.

Anyway, maybe you have some airflow being channelled over to that corner, more or less by accident? Or maybe it's just an effect of reduced ambient temperatures? I do know for sure that the chip I pointed out is the ITE, but all other factors... maybe lavalys staff was wrong.

Then again, my motherboard sensor rarely breaks 30Â°, even when I'm trying for 3Ghz, but the heatsink on the northbridge is HOT to the touch, so I don't think the sensor is in the northbridge.


----------



## rusbadboy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


Does the green light come on showing a power connection first?

Then check all your power connections. Since the only thing you did was change the timings, it shouldn't have fried anything. If you changed the voltage on your RAM that would do it though.

Is your mobo new? Did you just build this tower? The first thing you have to do with this mobo is manually set the RAM voltage to factory default, since the board undervolts. Also before overclocking you need to update your BIOS.


Thanks for the reply, yes the green light did come on. I did not change any voltages at all. The mobo is about a year old (just under). This system has been fine from day 1, just now it decided to fry. Right after i changed the timing and restarted it, it would not POST. I took it back to the shop I bought it from and since its still under warranty they are sending it back to manufacturer, should take about 2 weeks. Hopefully they will fix it or just send me a new one. Cant wait.


----------



## We Gone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*


Thermalright HR-09S/U *(type II)

WTB someone to ship me them from USA to Aus

Can only get type 1 in Aus!


Try this site

http://ncix.com/


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *avatar1983*


Well, to report back about my original problem. (reboots under full load at any overclock)

I have relaxed my memory command rate to T2.

I have also managed to get some extra airflow over the fins at the top of the board, cooling the southbridge via the heatpipe.

Not sure which one of these did it, but I can now achieve 300*9=2700 stable.

I'm still working on 3Ghz.

I have now invested in two Thermalright HR-05 SLI IFX chipset coolers (http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa...50aHVzaWFzdA==), after taking a ruler to my board and measuring space a lot! I think I should be able to fit one on the north- and southbridge each. I can probably fit the souhbridge one at an ange between the bottom video card and the soundcard. The northbridge should have just enough space between the top videocard and the scythe infinity. Will let everyone know how it goes.



don't forget you will new some good headsink for your MOSFETs when you change piping system.it's better if you can also redirect some airflow to them or using small fan behind them .they will become so hot when you overclock your system and it will cause damage to your mainboard .(I have some bad experience )


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


don't forget you will new some good headsink for your MOSFETs when you change piping system.it's better if you can also redirect some airflow to them or using small fan behind them .they will become so hot when you overclock your system and it will cause damage to your mainboard .(I have some bad experience )










I am also getting copper ram heatsinks I am intending to stick to the mosfets. Should arrive tomorrow, will let people know how I get on.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *avatar1983*


I am also getting copper ram heatsinks I am intending to stick to the mosfets. Should arrive tomorrow, will let people know how I get on.


They will be a pain getting to stick and stay on. It works best if you let your system run for a bit with no heatsinks on the MOSFETs, that way they can heat up enough for the thermal tape to stick well enough.

Also, that Thermaltake chipset cooler I believe will allow room for a Creative card, or so I've heard others claim. If it does fit, you should post a pic so we can have proof that it will accomodate a Creative card in the adjacent PCI slot.


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow*


They will be a pain getting to stick and stay on. It works best if you let your system run for a bit with no heatsinks on the MOSFETs, that way they can heat up enough for the thermal tape to stick well enough.

Also, that Thermaltake chipset cooler I believe will allow room for a Creative card, or so I've heard others claim. If it does fit, you should post a pic so we can have proof that it will accomodate a Creative card in the adjacent PCI slot.


Will post pictures when / if I can make it work. And thanks for the advice about the mosfets. Am I correct in thinking there should be eight mosfets to cool, four on the side and four at the top?


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *avatar1983*


Will post pictures when / if I can make it work. And thanks for the advice about the mosfets. Am I correct in thinking there should be eight mosfets to cool, four on the side and four at the top?


Yes, the ones that were covered initially by the factory heat sink, eight total. I managed to cover mine with just 4 heat sinks I believe. And mine are small el cheapo RAM heat sinks, but they seem to do the job well enough


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow* 
They will be a pain getting to stick and stay on. It works best if you let your system run for a bit with no heatsinks on the MOSFETs, that way they can heat up enough for the thermal tape to stick well enough.

Also, that Thermaltake chipset cooler I believe will allow room for a Creative card, or so I've heard others claim. If it does fit, you should post a pic so we can have proof that it will accomodate a Creative card in the adjacent PCI slot.

I use DOW CORNING 3140 RTV COATING for sticking headsink on MOSFETS for my system and it work perfectly.










http://www.dowcorning.com/applicatio...5788&type=PROD

http://www.ellsworth.com/display/pro...5&Tab=Products

it's very good for sticking any headsink on any part or anythings that you like.


----------



## new2overclock

Hi

I've got some noob questions for you experts out there... this is my first post so go easy on me and forgive me if i sound like i don't know what i'm talking about... which I don't 

I've been doing my first bit of overclocking and am getting to the point of nervousness about how much further i can go

asus p5ne32 sli plus with E6850, Bios 0805
zalman 9700 cpu cooler
4 x 1Gb corsair dominator 8500 memory, 5-5-5-15 2T

I've got memory linked at the moment and I've been raising the FSB. Currently I'm at
9x385 = corespeed of 3465, rated FSB of 1540
Memory DRAM Frequency 462MHz
vcore 1.34v
(numbers all from cpu-z)

WHen I run prime95 my temps are not getting above 50 degrees. Thus I think I've still got a bit to play with.. but

can anyone with similar setups advise what settings they have got?
when am I likely to run into problems?
should I unlink my memory and set the memory to 920Mhz while I max out the FSB?

Many Thanks


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *new2overclock*


Hi

I've got some noob questions for you experts out there... this is my first post so go easy on me and forgive me if i sound like i don't know what i'm talking about... which I don't 

I've been doing my first bit of overclocking and am getting to the point of nervousness about how much further i can go

asus p5ne32 sli plus with E6850, Bios 0805
zalman 9700 cpu cooler
4 x 1Gb corsair dominator 8500 memory, 5-5-5-15 2T

I've got memory linked at the moment and I've been raising the FSB. Currently I'm at 
9x385 = corespeed of 3465, rated FSB of 1540 
Memory DRAM Frequency 462MHz
vcore 1.34v
(numbers all from cpu-z)

WHen I run prime95 my temps are not getting above 50 degrees. Thus I think I've still got a bit to play with.. but

can anyone with similar setups advise what settings they have got?
when am I likely to run into problems?
should I unlink my memory and set the memory to 920Mhz while I max out the FSB?

Many Thanks



first read at least first page of topic.you should disable some items in bios.
change ram and memory state to unlinked

use EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1261 beta or newer beta version for checking temps and voltages.

also you can use Temp Core 0.96.1 for monitoring your cpu cores .
Also if you want to overclock with this mainboard you *MUST * have active cooling on North Bridge and South Bridge and also some headsinks for MOSFETS which will be appear when you turn out those piping system from your board.

then you can easily overclock your system to 3600 MHZ with this data :

FSB 1600
Vcore 1.46
NB temp 1.45
CPU VTT 1.55

you can also reach 3645 MHZ but for more you need abit more voltage for vcore .

first do all above and then ask for more.Also I don't have any info about P5N32-e SLI *PLUS * version bios.you should ask to see which bios on your mainboard is good for overclocking.


----------



## avatar1983

I just had my first bsod on stock settings. I'm starting to wonder if maybe I have a flaky board here...


----------



## mica3speedy

well I have my cpu oc'ed 370x9. I loosened the timings on my ram to 5-5-5-15 2T and up'ed the frequency to 925. Tested with memtest for two passes. How high do you guys think I can go? Any suggestions either to go as high as possible, or go for tight timings?


----------



## sirokket16

If you can hit 400 FSB then you can get your RAM to DDR800 and you can favor tighter timings over higher speed and achieve better performance. Your RAM should be able to do 4-4-4-12-2T at 925. However, make sure your CPU is completely stable before you tinker with your RAM settings.


----------



## miya

Alright, after reading 40+ pages of this thread, I figured out that this is getting nowhere...there are simply too many pages...

Anyway, I'm looking at adding some active cooling for my NB/SB and I've looked at reviews of the recommended ones on the first post ie. TT extreme spirit II, Jing Ting, TR-05 etc.

I'm wondering if anyone here can tell me which of these can fit along with my Ultra 120 Extreme (blowing air out to the back of the case) and the HR-03 Plus cooler in the position that takes up 3 slots (in between my GFX and soundcard).

I'm afraid the 4 screws poking out from the back of the graphics card (the ones keeping the HR-03+ in place) might interfere with a TT extreme on the NB, and the HR-03 heatsink is hanging right over the SB.

Currently I have a 40mm fan on the NB but I'm thinking of adding more juice to the cooling and 3rd party solution seems just about right.


----------



## Joe_Lost

Thanks Robilar, Persian,








----------- RESULT! ----------









Bios 1203 seems to have done it, partially at least. I did what I said and followed Robilar's initial overclocking setup instructions(without actually overclocking the thing) and set some of the voltages. BTW "Unlinked".

Here are the voltages that Asus Probe II read:
(Ones with a star were manually set to the bracketed level)

3.3v ======> 3.22v
5.0v ======> 5.0v
12v ======> 11.78v
Vcore =====> 1.42v
CPU VTT ===> 1.36v
DDR2 Term ==>1.02v
HT Volt ====> 1.23v *(1.20v)








NB Core ====> 1.38v *(1.35v)








SB Core ====> 1.52v
Memory ====> 2.08v *(2.05v)









I could still not set the Memory voltage above 2.05v without a lock-up. At this level(2.05v) I ran multiplayer World in Conflict at 2560*1600 and 1920*1200, with top graphic settings, for hours without a hint of a glitch. I will test it on BF2 and BF2142 tonight, but it is looking good.

I do still have some concerns about ASUS due to the fact that I have had to do so much manual setting, just to get the system to run at standard. The memory issue also worries me a bit, given the posted voltage being 2.2v and my never getting there, without even trying to OC.

I may try to OC in a few months. Any advice from the OCing professionals, given what you have seen?


----------



## Joe_Lost

BTW, why are there so few watercoolers here? I will cool the NB and SB with water when I OC. Watercooling has become much more affordable nowadays.


----------



## Benny99

Because not everyone wants a radiator next to there comp maybe









Also Water Can be risky if are new to it .

Leaks......... goodbye computer.

Whilst Air cooling u cant harm ure hardware.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Joe_Lost* 
BTW, why are there so few watercoolers here? I will cool the NB and SB with water when I OC. Watercooling has become much more affordable nowadays.

watercooling has it's own problem like leaking. at the moment I have Asus EN8800GTX Aquatank Graphic card which has watercooling system by original.It's cooler and also faster because of factory overclock but I should watch and check it every few days to see if it start leaking or not.


----------



## miya

Meh, I'm not hardcore enough for watercooling and isn't going air all the rage now?

Anyway I think I found a solution to part of my question after some random clicking in the thread.

Now I need to find a way to add some active cooling to the SB with the damn HR-03 hanging over it.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Joe_Lost* 
Thanks Robilar, Persian,








----------- RESULT! ----------









Bios 1203 seems to have done it, partially at least. I did what I said and followed Robilar's initial overclocking setup instructions(without actually overclocking the thing) and set some of the voltages. BTW "Unlinked".

Here are the voltages that Asus Probe II read:
(Ones with a star were manually set to the bracketed level)

3.3v ======> 3.22v
5.0v ======> 5.0v
12v ======> 11.78v
Vcore =====> 1.42v
CPU VTT ===> 1.36v
DDR2 Term ==>1.02v
HT Volt ====> 1.23v *(1.20v)








NB Core ====> 1.38v *(1.35v)








SB Core ====> 1.52v
Memory ====> 2.08v *(2.05v)









I could still not set the Memory voltage above 2.05v without a lock-up. At this level(2.05v) I ran multiplayer World in Conflict at 2560*1600 and 1920*1200, with top graphic settings, for hours without a hint of a glitch. I will test it on BF2 and BF2142 tonight, but it is looking good.

I do still have some concerns about ASUS due to the fact that I have had to do so much manual setting, just to get the system to run at standard. The memory issue also worries me a bit, given the posted voltage being 2.2v and my never getting there, without even trying to OC.

I may try to OC in a few months. Any advice from the OCing professionals, given what you have seen?

for overclocking :
change your CPU VTT to 1.55 and NB to 1.45.
HT Volt to 1.33
about Vcore each time you overclock and change FSB to higher value you should run ORTHOS for 1 hour and watch temps too.
if OTHROS failed or your system hang or restart it's time to give vcore abit more voltage and run ORTHOS again .if your system passed ORTHOS test then you can try higher FSB and ...









for temps monitoring it's better that you use EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1261 or newer beta version and check Computer >sensor menu

Here is tips about cpu temps for your cpu (E6X50) .this temps should check with temps from your system when you run Orthos or prime 25.4.

-Tcase/Tjunction-
--70--/--80--80-- Hot
--65--/--75--75-- Warm
--60--/--70--70-- Safe
--25--/--35--35-- Cool

Tcase = CPU temp
Tjunction = Core (#0 & #1) Temp

you can also use Core Temp 0.96.1 for monitoring you cpu cores.remember for your cpu always your cpu temp is 10c +/- 3 lower than cpu cores .


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:


Originally Posted by *miya* 
Meh, I'm not hardcore enough for watercooling and isn't going air all the rage now?

Anyway I think I found a solution to part of my question after some random clicking in the thread.

Now I need to find a way to add some active cooling to the SB with the damn HR-03 hanging over it.

I'm going to recive and try some Thermalright HR-05 SLI IFX sinks for NB and SB today. They have the fins ofset by some 30mm to one side of the heatsink base. You should be able to fit one of these to the sb. I'll let you know how my fittings work yout when the post gets here.


----------



## miya

Quote:


Originally Posted by *avatar1983* 
I'm going to recive and try some Thermalright HR-05 SLI IFX sinks for NB and SB today. They have the fins ofset by some 30mm to one side of the heatsink base. You should be able to fit one of these to the sb. I'll let you know how my fittings work yout when the post gets here.

Nice







I hope you'll have some pics.

After reading some of Dosto's later posts, seems like I can use the Vantec Icebergs to cool the SB, but the HR-05 SLIs seem a lot more powerful. Hope you have success with your setup.


----------



## SLIMaxPower

Just updated my bios to 1403 on my p5n32-e sli. It seems it can't be downgraded. Bios say older bios are incompatible.

My e4500 is now at 3300Mhz 1.55volts.

Previously running at 3200Mhz and unable to hit any fsb higher than 1185. 
Also unable to boot with lower multi.

Custom w/c cpu with SpiritII on NB/SB and heatsinks on mosfets.

Orthos can run for 30mins+ but temps are getting close to 65C to 70Cwith everest vista 64bit.

Hot over here in Perth, might have to lap cpu.


----------



## Joe_Lost

, Sorry

Might I propose a quick overview on "Watercooling"?

I have been running a watercooling system for 3+ years; CPU and graphics cards. I check all the tubes once every 6 months. Leakage is not the worry.

You(and I) all spend an inordinate amount of time reading about and doing OCing. There is a great deal more risk in that than watercooling, nowadays. Just as with OCing, you read a lot and learn, then act.

To give you a comparison, it is like saying that you prefer not to fly because when a plane crashes everybody dies. Yet it is riskier taking any other form of transport, including walking on the pavement(Sidewalk for our NA bretheren) and you do it every day without a second thought. You believe that you are more in control if you are driving the car or walking, but actually that control is an illusion. You cannot control a single one of the external factors that comprise the majority of the risks.

With regards to the external radiators, that is a matter of choice. I agree that an external radiator(really only used with passive watercooling) may not be everyone's cup of tea. I choose it for the noise reduction. Eventually mine will do the job of 3-5 fans and give more stability. It should be noted, however, that many very good watercooling systems fit comfortably inside cases. I am considering putting in a secondary, active(Fans), watercooling system in for the graphics cards or the North and South bridges. That one would fit inside the case.

Think about it. If you are prepared to OC then you are already a calculated risk taker. I would suggest that you might be a candidate for watercooling. I am only suggesting that you read more about it before dismissing it out of hand. The upside of watercooling is temperature stability, heat dissipation and noise reduction.









BTW, I have three computers and the other two are entirely air-cooled. So it is not that I disagree with good air-cooling.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Joe_Lost*









, Sorry

Might I propose a quick overview on "Watercooling"?

I have been running a watercooling system for 3+ years; CPU and graphics cards. I check all the tubes once every 6 months. Leakage is not the worry.

You(and I) all spend an inordinate amount of time reading about and doing OCing. There is a great deal more risk in that than watercooling, nowadays. Just as with OCing, you read a lot and learn, then act.

To give you a comparison, it is like saying that you prefer not to fly because when a plane crashes everybody dies. Yet it is riskier taking any other form of transport, including walking on the pavement(Sidewalk for our NA bretheren) and you do it every day without a second thought. You believe that you are more in control if you are driving the car or walking, but actually that control is an illusion. You cannot control a single one of the external factors that comprise the majority of the risks.

With regards to the external radiators, that is a matter of choice. I agree that an external radiator(really only used with passive watercooling) may not be everyone's cup of tea. I choose it for the noise reduction. Eventually mine will do the job of 3-5 fans and give more stability. It should be noted, however, that many very good watercooling systems fit comfortably inside cases. I am considering putting in a secondary, active(Fans), watercooling system in for the graphics cards or the North and South bridges. That one would fit inside the case.

Think about it. If you are prepared to OC then you are already a calculated risk taker. I would suggest that you might be a candidate for watercooling. I am only suggesting that you read more about it before dismissing it out of hand. The upside of watercooling is temperature stability, heat dissipation and noise reduction.









BTW, I have three computers and the other two are entirely air-cooled. So it is not that I disagree with good air-cooling.










Thanks for your post.There is no doubt that watercooling is better than air cooling.I read somewhere that said the worst watercooling system have better performance than best air cooling system.just like comparing CTR and LCD monitor in mater of their gama ray danger for eyes.

for example my problem with water cooling is that I already spend money for good air cooling system for my cpu ,case,NB,SB and MOSFETS . At the moment.also noise is very important matter for me and I try to avoid my system to become too noisy .
At the moment I use NOCTUA NH-U12F as cpu cooler which just has 17 dBA noise.

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=p...ts_id=6&lng=en

North Bridge cooler is Extreme Spirit II which has 19 dBA noise .I also placed a 40mm ultra-low noise fans behinde it for better cooling performance because the Extreme Spirit II become so hot.

http://thermaltakeusa.com/product/co...4/cl-c0034.asp

My South Bridge cooler is thermalright HR-05 SLI .

http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa...50aHVzaWFzdA==

I also place a 80 mm Thermaltake LED fan behind thermalright HR-05 SLI which point air directly to it and it has 21 dBA noise.

http://thermaltakeusa.com/2005/dcfan...derblade80.htm

My power is OCZ GameXStream 850 Watt which has 120 mm LED fan and it's so quiet .

http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...dia_sli_ready_

My case is Thermaltake Armor With 25 cm fan side panel which is nVIDIA SLI certified Chassis .Case cooling system is :
Front (intake) 120x120x25 mm, Blue LED Fan, 1300rpm, 17dBA 
Side (Intake) 250 x 250 x 30 mm fan, 600rpm, 15dBA 
Rear (exhaust) 120 x 120 x25 mm blue LED fan, 1300rpm, 17dBA
90 x 90 x 25mm, 1800rpm, 19dBA 
Top (exhaust) 90 x 90 x 25mm, 1800rpm, 19dBA

http://thermaltakeusa.com/product/Ch.../va8003bws.asp

My VGA is EN8800GTX AquaTank/HTDP/768M which use water and air cooling system together .it has switch for turn fan to high speed and low speed and with low speed it is very quiet.

http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?l1...65&modelmenu=1

For MOSFETS I use asus MOSFETS headsink which is attached to NB and SB orginal pip cooling system BUT I first extract their plastic pins,then I deformed them is a way that I can use them inside case and they don't have conflict with any other part and then I stick them to MOSFETS with DOW CORNING 3140 RTV COATING .I Also use 2x 60mm ultra-low noise fans behind them which cool them perfectly.(The only problem is that if something happened to my system and you want to use asus warranty service ,I have problem because I had deformed those piping system and I should try to back them to normal mode .)


----------



## Joe_Lost

For your MOSFETS, remove the ASUS standard and buy some VGA RAM(VRAM) heatsinks. They fit on individually and usually come with adhesive thermal pads.

For instance ZM-RHS1's, as a set from Zalman.

http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Pr...ad.asp?idx=136

.........or you could remove even those thermal pads and use your thermal adhesive to stick them, if you prefer.

That way you can keep the original Asus sinks for any RMAing.

================================================== =========================================

I appreciate that watercooling is not the cheapest, especially if you already have a full air-cooling set.

For those considering it I would recommend a watercooling kit to start with:

*Cheaper end: *

Thermaltake Bigwater 735
http://thermaltakeusa.com/product/Li...5/cl-w0075.asp

Thermaltake Bigwater 760i
http://thermaltakeusa.com/product/Li...1/cl-w0121.asp

Zalman Reserator V2
http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Pr...ad.asp?idx=184

*Expensive End*

There are more kits out there, but Zalman and Thermaltake are very reliable and reasonably easy to set up.

Later you can learn more and build your own from components, but to start that way is like fiddling with voltages and timings the first time that you OC instead of starting gently with something like Ai overclocking.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Joe_Lost*


For your MOSFETS, remove the ASUS standard and buy some VGA RAM(VRAM) heatsinks. They fit on individually and usually come with adhesive thermal pads.

For instance ZM-RHS1's, as a set from Zalman.

http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Pr...ad.asp?idx=136

.........or you could remove even those thermal pads and use your thermal adhesive to stick them, if you prefer.

That way you can keep the original Asus sinks for any RMAing.

I appreciate that watercooling is not the cheapest, especially if you already have a full air-cooling set.

For those considering it I would recommend a watercooling kit to start with:

*Cheaper end: *

Thermaltake Bigwater 735
http://thermaltakeusa.com/product/Li...5/cl-w0075.asp

Thermaltake Bigwater 760i
http://thermaltakeusa.com/product/Li...1/cl-w0121.asp

Zalman Reserator V2
http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Pr...ad.asp?idx=184

*Expensive End*

There are more kits out there, but Zalman and Thermaltake are very reliable and reasonably easy to set up.

Later you can learn more and build your own from components, but to start that way is like fiddling with voltages and timings the first time that you OC instead of starting gently with something like Ai overclocking.










At the moment and with my setup MOSFETS become so cold ,I can easyly touch headsinks and they are at very good temp.
I forget to said ,I first remove that thermal pads and use DOW CORNING 3140 RTV COATING which is very good and professional thermal adhesive.








Sorry

About watercooling as long as my research show Danger Den and Swiftech are very good brand too.
Also there is very good article about comparing watercooling system at :

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coo...ercooling.html


----------



## Joe_Lost

Nice site.


----------



## mica3speedy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sirokket16* 
If you can hit 400 FSB then you can get your RAM to DDR800 and you can favor tighter timings over higher speed and achieve better performance. Your RAM should be able to do 4-4-4-12-2T at 925. However, make sure your CPU is completely stable before you tinker with your RAM settings.

well I'm 24 hours orthos stable at 370x9. I may try again at 333x10 but that I think was a fsb hole with my board. I doubt I can do 400x9 with my vcore at 1.4v. I know 1:1 would give me better results; 400x8 gave better memory scores, but lower cpu scores while 370x9 gave higher cpu scores but lower memory scores. Does anyone think I could hit 1110 with my ram so I would have at least 3:2. I'm currently 5:4 (925/370) but with loose timings so my memory scores are lower.


----------



## mica3speedy

damn Micro Center for giving me hard decisions. They have the Q6600 on sale for $200. my e6700 is maxed out at 3.33ghz. So I'm debating if getting a q6600 would be beneficial for me at this point. I do some video work on occasion, so the question remains: 3.33ghz e6700 vs. q6600?


----------



## avatar1983

Ok, for all those looking at aftermarket cooling:

The Thermaltake HS-05 SLI XFI does NOT fit on the southbridge with two 8800GTX and a creative X-FI. No way. Unfortunate, but I can return mine for a refund.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *avatar1983*


Ok, for all those looking at aftermarket cooling:

The Thermaltake HS-05 SLI XFI does NOT fit on the southbridge with two 8800GTX and a creative X-FI. No way. Unfortunate, but I can return mine for a refund.


Good to know, rep+ for the tip. This should be added to the OP.


----------



## new2overclock

Hi Guys

So in my earlier post a couple of days ago I was advised that on this type of board its a MUST to cool the NB and SB and it seems a very common thing to do reading this thread... but how do you know if they are getting too hot..? I can't see their temps reported in everest ?

Also when I run the everest stress test, any idea why it shows my cpu cores at around 50degrees but coretemp shows them closer to 40.. which should I believe?

My E6850 seems quite happy at 3.4 at the moment
9x388 vcore 1.35

Many Thanks (apologies if the above are stupid questions)


----------



## arjo_reich

Quote:


Originally Posted by *avatar1983* 
Ok, for all those looking at aftermarket cooling:

The Thermaltake HS-05 SLI XFI does NOT fit on the southbridge with two 8800GTX and a creative X-FI. No way. Unfortunate, but I can return mine for a refund.

Ouch, if I would have caught this thread in time I would have warned you that in advance... If you're ever, ever not 100% sure about a configuration, email ThermalRight (ideally with a picture of your setup) and just ask them. They were completely up-front with there "no chance in hell dude" response, lol...


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *new2overclock*


Hi Guys

So in my earlier post a couple of days ago I was advised that on this type of board its a MUST to cool the NB and SB and it seems a very common thing to do reading this thread... but how do you know if they are getting too hot..? I can't see their temps reported in everest ?

Also when I run the everest stress test, any idea why it shows my cpu cores at around 50degrees but coretemp shows them closer to 40.. which should I believe?

My E6850 seems quite happy at 3.4 at the moment
9x388 vcore 1.35

Many Thanks (apologies if the above are stupid questions)


EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1261 beta and newer beta version show true parameters and value for this mainboard and your cpu.this version or newer beta version also show MCP temp which is southbridge temp at Computer >Sensor menu.

this mainboard SB and NB become too hot during overclocking.
for example I had seen MCP easily went to 86c once time when I place my SN headsink abit bad.

some user here use termometer and external sensor for checking SB and NB temps and they confirms that SB and NB become so hot.

maybe you system work good for some time buy without active cooling on them your mainboard will have very short life.


----------



## arjo_reich

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


damn Micro Center for giving me hard decisions. They have the Q6600 on sale for $200. my e6700 is maxed out at 3.33ghz. So I'm debating if getting a q6600 would be beneficial for me at this point. I do some video work on occasion, so the question remains: 3.33ghz e6700 vs. q6600?


For me the quad-core was the better choice because my machine is a "development machine" first, gaming machine second... and vmware (I do my work exclusively in virtualized environments) is _very_ scalable on a quad core...

As always, YMMV...


----------



## arjo_reich

Quote:



Originally Posted by *new2overclock*


Hi Guys
So in my earlier post a couple of days ago I was advised that on this type of board its a MUST to cool the NB and SB and it seems a very common thing to do reading this thread... but how do you know if they are getting too hot..? I can't see their temps reported in everest ?


I got me a reliable infrared thermometer and fire it at components to get their surface temperatures. I also keep track of the ambient temps of the room with a little desktop thermometer so I know what the temperatures of the room are as well...

My northbridge, on stock coolers, was running at 97C (idle @ stock speeds) before I swapped them out. And the need to swap them out isn't as cut and dry as if you overclock. Even if you don't overclock but you have a tower-styled cpu cooler (e.g. ThermalRight Ultra-120 Extreme) you'll probably have to upgrade them as well. The reference design of the board is such that it depends on a cpu cooler that is blowing air "downward" against the motherboard. Tower styled coolers don't do this and create a dead-pocket of air over the northbridge heatsink.

A cheaper solution, if you're not overclocking, is to superglue - or otherwise fasten - a 20mm fan on top of the northbridge heatsink blowing down on it. It works, but not as efficiently as getting in there yourself swapping them out with something more "active" in terms of cooling...


----------



## abe_joker

Hey guys...again, me hehe...
I discovered why the MCP shows 70c...the cooler of the southbridge for some reason, the fan it's not workin. although the LEDs are...
I'm still confused about something...the Tjunction or core temps are suppose to be 10 +/- the CPU temp...but mine are 20+...Cores go around 50 and 60...CPU go around 30... how's that?


----------



## arjo_reich

The B3 runs hotter than the G0 but we need more background info. Are those values idle or load temps, what was the room's ambient temperature (approximations are fine) at the time and where they stock or overclocked speeds?


----------



## abe_joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arjo_reich*


The B3 runs hotter than the G0 but we need more background info. Are those values idle or load temps, what was the room's ambient temperature (approximations are fine) at the time and where they stock or overclocked speeds?



i posted the screenshot like 3 page before....those are in Idle...stock was the same and now it is in 2.9ghz...the ambient is always in 28-32c


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *avatar1983*


Ok, for all those looking at aftermarket cooling:

The Thermaltake HS-05 SLI XFI does NOT fit on the southbridge with two 8800GTX and a creative X-FI. No way. Unfortunate, but I can return mine for a refund.


Added to the front page.

Thanks


----------



## mica3speedy

ok problem here guys. The other day I ran orthos 24 hours fine no problems. My wife is complaining that the computer now crashes while playing sims2. I'm currently at 370x9 (3.33ghz). Ram is at manufacture specs 4-4-3-5 1T, set at 800. Here are my voltages:

Vcore: 1.400
memory: 2.100
1.2ht: 1.3
NB: 1.4
SB: 1.5
Cpu Vtt: 1.55

any ideas or suggestions?


----------



## sirokket16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
ok problem here guys. The other day I ran orthos 24 hours fine no problems. My wife is complaining that the computer now crashes while playing sims2. I'm currently at 370x9 (3.33ghz). Ram is at manufacture specs 4-4-3-5 1T, set at 800. Here are my voltages:

Vcore: 1.400
memory: 2.100
1.2ht: 1.3
NB: 1.4
SB: 1.5
Cpu Vtt: 1.55

any ideas or suggestions?

What kind of crash is it? Are there any other issues that she is experiencing? What BIOS are you using? Prolonged (24hrs+) Orthos testing at high priority is usually the ultimate gauge of stability. Also, what are your idle and load temps?


----------



## Benny99

Umm .. lossen the timings ? maybe 4-4-4-12-2T

1T for stock dosent seem right...

On their Website it shows them at 4-4-3-5 but dosent show the command rate.

And im Thinking it wouldnt be 1T so set it to 2T.

Try either one of these 4-4-3-8-2T
or 4-4-4-12-2T
or 4-4-4-10-2T

Also what Orthos did u run Small FFTs arnt the best for stability.

Run Large FFT also this puts more stress on the system and restarts and crashes + errors can occur quickly. This is due a low Vcore so up the Vcore if this happens. (Run at Priority of 9 )


----------



## mica3speedy

http://newgskill.web-bi.net/bbs/view...esc=asc&no=100


----------



## mica3speedy

so the higher the priority in orthos, the better the test. Wowzers I was way off running priority 1 then







. Was doing small fft's as well. Well back to testing for me. +rep for you







.


----------



## avatar1983

Hi all, everyone in this thread has been very helpful, but I am throwing in the towel on this board.

This has a number of reasons. 1) I just can't get any stable overclock with my q6600. 2) I think I may have killed my board while trying to install the HR-05's I tried yesterday. Not that I did anything to break it, I don't think, but I can no longer make it recognise cards in the primary PCI-E slot. Which means it's RMA time (after reinstalling the stock cooling, of course). This may be a blessing in disguise, as I have been suspecting the board of being flakey anyway. You know, the kind of ghost problems one gets. Occasional insatiability even at stock, and the like.

I have ordered an XFX 780i now (as I currently can't find the evga version anywhere in stock in the UK), which I read somewhere is basically the same board as the evga. This should arrive sometime today.

If had known a few weeks ago what I know now, I probably would have done that anyway, or at least gone for a Wolfdale over the Q6600.


----------



## johnny9794

Heya all, Im picking up the asus p5n32-e and 2 gigs of Crucial Ballistix 2GB DDR2 800 in 3 to 4 hours, I will be running my p4 processor in it, are there any recommendations on the best bios version to update the board with?

Thanx.


----------



## Joe_Lost

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny9794*


Heya all, Im picking up the asus p5n32-e and 2 gigs of Crucial Ballistix 2GB DDR2 800 in 3 to 4 hours, I will be running my p4 processor in it, are there any recommendations on the best bios version to update the board with?

Thanx.


1203, is the most stable. Just do not run a USB "Razor" mouse with that. It is not supported.


----------



## avatar1983

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny9794* 
Heya all, Im picking up the asus p5n32-e and 2 gigs of Crucial Ballistix 2GB DDR2 800 in 3 to 4 hours, I will be running my p4 processor in it, are there any recommendations on the best bios version to update the board with?

Thanx.

Hi,
the 1203 revision is generally regarded as the best for overclocking. You can't find it on the asus website because it has some issues with Razer mice.

That being said, I have no idea how it works with P4's. If you do want that version, PM me with your email address and I'll send it to you.

Also, one thing to be aware of. Use the flash utility built in to the bios! This board has trouble sometimes with the windows based version.

Also, if you upgrade to 1403, the latest from the asus website, you will not be able to downgrade to an earlier bios. None of the other versions have this issue.


----------



## johnny9794

pm sent, thanx guys. so nervous.


----------



## miya

Well, my board was running fine for over a year now at a mild overclock. E6600 Oce'd to 3ghz and ram at 4-4-4-12 1T. No stability problems whatsover. That is until recently my rig decided to bsod every other day.

I couldn't even get to windows at stock settings, so I thought that the board was dead. At times I could get up to windows vista loading screen until it hanged, at other times, it just hangs at bios post. Finally, it came to a point when the fans could spin when I power up but it couldn't even post. So I thought that the Pn532-e really was a crap board since it couldn't even last 2 years.

....Until I decided to take out my Antec Truepower 2 550 Psu and swap it with the no name Atx psu from my other athlon box. And viola, my board came back to life!

So it turns out that my "expensive psu from a decent brand that only lived barely a year" was the main culprit for my woes. RMA'ed the bugger for an Antec Truepower Trio. And it's been working fine so far.

Now my question to all those experiencing problems is whether they bothered to check their power supply since apparently this board really hates dirty power. I think this issue was also stated in the first post as well.

Of course I'm pretty sure many are experienced enough not to overlook the psu as a possible cause for instability but I hope that this could be helpful to the rare few who overlooked something important yet seemingly insignificant.


----------



## Benny99

At Johnny

why are u Using a P4 in this board ???


----------



## Benny99

Well Ure PSU died ?

If ure fans arnt spinning well it obviously isnt ure Motherboard playing up.

Faulty parts and Overclocking dont go well together









Quote:


Originally Posted by *miya* 
Well, my board was running fine for over a year now at a mild overclock. E6600 Oce'd to 3ghz and ram at 4-4-4-12 1T. No stability problems whatsover. That is until recently my rig decided to bsod every other day.

I couldn't even get to windows at stock settings, so I thought that the board was dead. At times I could get up to windows vista loading screen until it hanged, at other times, it just hangs at bios post. Finally, it came to a point when the fans could spin when I power up but it couldn't even post. So I thought that the Pn532-e really was a crap board since it couldn't even last 2 years.

....Until I decided to take out my Antec Truepower 2 550 Psu and swap it with the no name Atx psu from my other athlon box. And viola, my board came back to life!

So it turns out that my "expensive psu from a decent brand that only lived barely a year" was the main culprit for my woes. RMA'ed the bugger for an Antec Truepower Trio. And it's been working fine so far.

Now my question to all those experiencing problems is whether they bothered to check their power supply since apparently this board really hates dirty power. I think this issue was also stated in the first post as well.

Of course I'm pretty sure many are experienced enough not to overlook the psu as a possible cause for instability but I hope that this could be helpful to the rare few who overlooked something important yet seemingly insignificant.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Benny99* 
At Johnny

why are u Using a P4 in this board ???

Just have enough cash for the board and ram, im hoping to pick up a new e6600 processor and 750w PSU in a month or so, p4 is just for temporerly.


----------



## Benny99

Hmm i see

Well as others have said use the 1203 bios.

here is the link

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...P5N32-E%20SLI/

Im also using Ballistix they are great ram for this board.


----------



## johnny9794

Thank you for the link and how fast everybody replyed.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *abe_joker* 
Hey guys...again, me hehe...
I discovered why the MCP shows 70c...the cooler of the southbridge for some reason, the fan it's not workin. although the LEDs are...
I'm still confused about something...the Tjunction or core temps are suppose to be 10 +/- the CPU temp...but mine are 20+...Cores go around 50 and 60...CPU go around 30... how's that?

first of all what program and which version do you use for reading cpu and cores temps?
EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1261 beta or newer beta version work well and show true value with this board.

your cpu is Q6600 with B3 Stepping :

Q6600: Tcase Max 62c, B3 Stepping, Tjunction Max 100c, Vcore Default 1.372, TDP 105w, Delta 10c

-Tcase/Tjunction-
--60--/--70--70--70--70-- Hot
--55--/--65--65--65--65-- Warm
--50--/--60--60--60--60-- Safe
--25--/--35--35--35--35-- Cool

detla for your cpu normally will be 10c +/- 3 but it can be maximum up to 25c.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
ok problem here guys. The other day I ran orthos 24 hours fine no problems. My wife is complaining that the computer now crashes while playing sims2. I'm currently at 370x9 (3.33ghz). Ram is at manufacture specs 4-4-3-5 1T, set at 800. Here are my voltages:

Vcore: 1.400
memory: 2.100
1.2ht: 1.3
NB: 1.4
SB: 1.5
Cpu Vtt: 1.55

any ideas or suggestions?

first change your NB to 1.45 and then try more vcore and and run orthos to get stable system.Also change your ram to unlinked and reset your memory ram to default until you get stable overclock and then you can play with your ram timing for better performance.


----------



## Benny99

The Thread Continues !


----------



## jul3z

Just for my info, how much less reliable is the Striker Extreme compared to this board? I know they're about the same, but i'm worried with my choice now. I've got it OCed to 3.0, but how should i test it? I ran large fft's in prime 95 on 4 cores for an hour.

Any time i play with the NB/SB voltage, it won't post and hangs at USB_INIT. If i leave the NB/SB on auto it posts fine.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jul3z*


Just for my info, how much less reliable is the Striker Extreme compared to this board? I know they're about the same, but i'm worried with my choice now. I've got it OCed to 3.0, but how should i test it? I ran large fft's in prime 95 on 4 cores for an hour.

Any time i play with the NB/SB voltage, it won't post and hangs at USB_INIT. If i leave the NB/SB on auto it posts fine.


for overclocking first you shoudl disable some items in bios.do you disable them ?
I think at the moment this two board use same bios.

you can use Stress Prime 2004 Orthos (Orthos) and blend test or prime 25.4 and blend test.


----------



## arjo_reich

The P5N32-E 680i *_IS_* a striker extreme minus some on-board reset buttons and a silly LCD in the back. ;-p


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arjo_reich*


The P5N32-E 680i *_IS_* a striker extreme minus some on-board reset buttons and a silly LCD in the back. ;-p


yes thats true but at the first they had it's own bios and then after they find out about striker extreme bios problem they change the bios in a way that they both can use same bios.


----------



## abe_joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


first of all what program and which version do you use for reading cpu and cores temps?
EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1261 beta or newer beta version work well and show true value with this board.

your cpu is Q6600 with B3 Stepping :

Q6600: Tcase Max 62c, B3 Stepping, Tjunction Max 100c, Vcore Default 1.372, TDP 105w, Delta 10c

-Tcase/Tjunction-
--60--/--70--70--70--70-- Hot
--55--/--65--65--65--65-- Warm
--50--/--60--60--60--60-- Safe
--25--/--35--35--35--35-- Cool

detla for your cpu normally will be 10c +/- 3 but it can be maximum up to 25c.










Ok, Mine is:

Tcase = 32c Idle
Tjunction= 53-51-49-50 Idle...

The delta is more than 10c...but can be max to 25 you said??? I have the same everest as you do...


----------



## HoT

hi ppl . anyone get the last bios (1403) know if is the best bios for Quad ?


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *abe_joker* 
Ok, Mine is:

Tcase = 32c Idle
Tjunction= 53-51-49-50 Idle...

The delta is more than 10c...but can be max to 25 you said??? I have the same everest as you do...

yes it can be max up to 25c

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HoT* 
hi ppl . anyone get the last bios (1403) know if is the best bios for Quad ?

If you are not using Intel 45nm cpu them 1203 will be the best bios for you (your cpu is not 45nm cpu )


----------



## arjo_reich

I'm on 1403 using my Q6600 and the one significant thing I can note is that on my all-stock speeds that the ram timings went from 4-4-4-12 T2 (auto) to 5-5-5-18 T2 (auto) after upgrading the BIOS.

I haven't been benchmarking the machine yet so I don't know how that would have changed things comparatively. I'm still working on cooling solutions before I get into increasing the heat.

Right now I have my CPU Idling @ Room Ambient Temps with the cores only being about 15C warmer than that at any given moment. Under full load the offset shortens to only being about 10C higher than the CPU sensor...but still under 44C during loads. Not "prime" loads yet though, because like I said, I'm not benching anything yet.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arjo_reich* 
I'm on 1403 using my Q6600 and the one significant thing I can note is that on my all-stock speeds that the ram timings went from 4-4-4-12 T2 (auto) to 5-5-5-18 T2 (auto) after upgrading the BIOS.

I haven't been benchmarking the machine yet so I don't know how that would have changed things comparatively. I'm still working on cooling solutions before I get into increasing the heat.

Right now I have my CPU Idling @ Room Ambient Temps with the cores only being about 15C warmer than that at any given moment. Under full load the offset shortens to only being about 10C higher than the CPU sensor...but still under 44C during loads. Not "prime" loads yet though, because like I said, I'm not benching anything yet.

As I said before bios 1403 has some problem with memory timing and remembering them.
Also there is very big problem with 1403 .you can't restore to older bios version after you upgrade your bios to 1403 which I think is very important problem.At the moment bios 1203 is best bios if you don't have 45nm cpu on your system .


----------



## sirokket16

I need some help. I cant seem to get 3.2GHz stable (400x8). My voltages are:

Vcore 1.35
NB 1.45
SB 1.50
Vht 1.30
Vtt 1.55

Do I just need more Vcore? What is the most safe range to stay in?

I have active cooling on my NB and SB, I also took off the NB heatsink and put some silicone thermal paste on there and the temps are generally well under 40.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sirokket16* 
I need some help. I cant seem to get 3.2GHz stable (400x8). My voltages are:

Vcore 1.35
NB 1.45
SB 1.50
Vht 1.30
Vtt 1.55

Do I just need more Vcore? What is the most safe range to stay in?

I have active cooling on my NB and SB, I also took off the NB heatsink and put some silicone thermal paste on there and the temps are generally well under 40.

you also need some headsink for MOSFETS .your cpu max vcore is 1.5 but I suggest you take 1.45 as max safe vcore for your cpu.also please note that more vcore = more cpu temp and you should watch your cpu temp carefully within the tests.

E6x20: Tcase Max 60c, B2 Stepping, Tjunction Max 85c, Vcore Default 1.3525, TDP 65w, Delta 15c

-Tcase/Tjunction-
--60--/--75--75-- Hot
--55--/--70--70-- Warm
--50--/--65--65-- Safe
--25--/--40--40-- Cool


----------



## jul3z

what would cause the USB_INIT? I'm actually kinda happy with the little lcd on the back... I know its an idiotic placement for it, but it still helps









I did indeed disable the settings that are suggested at the beginning of the thread.

I'm running BIOS 1502, if that changes anything


----------



## sirokket16

I took off the heatsinks and reapplied thermal paste because there was gray crap on there. I put the heatsinks back on. I'm pretty sure that temperature is not an issue, right now my CPU is at 28C and my NB is 36C. It seems that no matter what I try it just freezes at my desktop at any Vcore up to 1.400v soon after I load Windows. I don't even have the ability to begin stress testing. I would find it hard to believe that I would need that much more Vcore when I am completely stable at 2.93 (366x8) with the following voltages:

Vcore 1.325
NB 1.35
SB 1.50
Vht 1.25
Vtt 1.25

One thing that I noticed is that my room is very very dry now that it is winter. Often I will shock myself on my desk and produce a large boom from my speakers. Could this somehow be causing a problem? This is so frustrating because I was stable at 3.2 for a very long time.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jul3z*


what would cause the USB_INIT? I'm actually kinda happy with the little lcd on the back... I know its an idiotic placement for it, but it still helps









I did indeed disable the settings that are suggested at the beginning of the thread.

I'm running BIOS 1502, if that changes anything


I really enjoyed the striker extreme while i had it. Not as strong with dual cores as the trusty p5n32-e but better for quads.

USB_INIT is a usb device error. go into the bios and turn off usb legacy support. should fix it


----------



## johnny9794

Yay, I finally got the p5n32-e with 2 gigs of the crucial, installed my p4 with stock heatsink, everything runs fine, I downgraded the bios from 1205 to 1203, had a couple bsod but disabling all of the spread spectrum's, and setting my ram to 5-5-5-12 [email protected] 2.1v It seems stable.

still gotta install updates n such and clean up the horrid wiring mess.


----------



## miya

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*


Well Ure PSU died ?

If ure fans arnt spinning well it obviously isnt ure Motherboard playing up.

Faulty parts and Overclocking dont go well together










No, the fact is my fans ARE spinning fine. The led on the board is also lighted up when i tried to boot the computer and the leds on the keyboard also lighted up so I thought that the power supply was fine.

Turned out it wasn't fine, and the damn psu was less than a year old.


----------



## jul3z

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
I really enjoyed the striker extreme while i had it. Not as strong with dual cores as the trusty p5n32-e but better for quads.

USB_INIT is a usb device error. go into the bios and turn off usb legacy support. should fix it









Thanks! finally a thread where i don't feel like an idiot for buying the SE. now i just need a better HSF


----------



## mica3speedy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *miya*


No, the fact is my fans ARE spinning fine. The led on the board is also lighted up when i tried to boot the computer and the leds on the keyboard also lighted up so I thought that the power supply was fine.

Turned out it wasn't fine, and the damn psu was less than a year old.


that can happen. The psu dies and just has enough juice to power a couple of fans and an led :lol: . At least you found it was the psu instead of replacing everything else first.


----------



## johnny9794

Ok, I am totally new to all the settings for this mobo, ive got it oced to 3750.1MHz with bus speed of 250.0MHz and fsb is at exactly 1000.0MHz. It is very stable, could I go higher without hurting anything? should I raise any voltages on anything in the bios?

my cpu-z is up to date and i also have a spit out txt that i exported from ntune maybe this could point some stuff out.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny9794* 
Ok, I am totally new to all the settings for this mobo, ive got it oced to 3750.1MHz with bus speed of 250.0MHz and fsb is at exactly 1000.0MHz. It is very stable, could I go higher without hurting anything? should I raise any voltages on anything in the bios?

my cpu-z is up to date and i also have a spit out txt that i exported from ntune maybe this could point some stuff out.

refer to the following pages your cpu max voltage can be 1.388V or 1.400V depend on your cpu stepping but your system info show vcore as 1.5 v .How this can be happened ?
I'm not familiar with your cpu but I suggest you ask other members about vcore voltage.

http://processorfinder.intel.com/det...px?sSpec=SL8Q7

http://processorfinder.intel.com/det...px?sSpec=SL7Z9


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny9794* 
Yay, I finally got the p5n32-e with 2 gigs of the crucial, installed my p4 with stock heatsink, everything runs fine, I downgraded the bios from 1205 to 1203, had a couple bsod but disabling all of the spread spectrum's, and setting my ram to 5-5-5-12 [email protected] 2.1v It seems stable.

still gotta install updates n such and clean up the horrid wiring mess.

welcome to Our party .








I hope you enjoy your new system.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


refer to the following pages your cpu max voltage can be 1.388V or 1.400V depend on your cpu stepping but your system info show vcore as 1.5 v .How this can be happened ? 
I'm not familiar with your cpu but I suggest you ask other members about vcore voltage.


Yes I changed that right away, i set core vtt all the way up ekkk, core voltage is at 1.424 now.

im just testing with prime95 now with low settings and gonna slowly increase and keep benchmarking.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


welcome to Our party .








I hope you enjoy your new system.










Thanx man, Yea I very much enjoy the board, still cannot believe i have it ahah.

My temps on the cpu are very low compared to that other crap board i have, must be that asus stack cool.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny9794* 
My temps on the cpu are very low compared to that other crap board i have, must be that asus stack cool.

I'm not sure that your low cpu temp is because of stack cool .









Quote:

StackCool 2 is a fan-less and zero-noise cooling solution offered exclusively by ASUS. It effectively transfers heat generated by the critical components to the other side of the specially designed PCB (printed circuit board) for effective heat dissipation.
let me see "critical components" maybe you are true.


----------



## sirokket16

Ok, I just installed a new version of Everest and apparently my NB temp is around 66C at idle. I know that is very high, but how can I bring that down to a more acceptable level?? Also, could this temp be limiting my overclocking abilities?


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


I'm not sure that your low cpu temp is because of stack cool .









let me see "critical components" maybe you are true.


lol, i kinda figured it was the stack cool "maybe" because i believe the ballistix's are made up of the same material and it said that the stuff helps dispense heat or something.

very nice, I really like how the board resets itself so u can get back into bios from wrong overclocks, very handy.

still stress testing and right now i am at 
3.637.4MHz, bus speed 242.5 and fsb 969.9 seems stable.

I have a question, What is pcex16_1 in bios for, seems like i had instability on a overclock then i raised pciex16_1 from 100 to 110 n then that overclock was stable.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sirokket16*


Ok, I just installed a new version of Everest and apparently my NB temp is around 66C at idle. I know that is very high, but how can I bring that down to a more acceptable level?? Also, could this temp be limiting my overclocking abilities?


Where is the temp for NB on everest, i have 3 temps that read around the teens could those be em? screenshot below.


----------



## mica3speedy

ok need someone to chime in on this. My e6700 will not get any higher than 3.2ghz. Strongly debating on either:

1. e8400 
2. q6600

I want the quad for encoding, but doesn't look it works well with this board. The e8400 looks like it overclocks very nicely. Both are $200 at micro center right now. So this is my dilemma.


----------



## sirokket16

Johnny9794 you have an older version of Everest. I just updated mine so I could see the temp. It should read MCP. Here is a screen:










I got it down a little since I moved a fan and took the side of my case off. I'm at 2933 (366x8) right now and this is the lowest it will go. I really don't want to buy a different chipset cooler. When I first got the board I put silicone paste on the NB and removed the stock crap. What can I do?


----------



## cdxsuprace

Anyone having problem running 4GB of rams on Vista 64? I tried to install vista 64 with 4GB of rams and it wouldn't install. I tried with vista 32 and it works fine but only reads 3GB. I then tried to install vista 64 with 2GB of rams and it works fine but when I restart and put in 4GB, it wouldn't boot up. The blue error screen appear saying something about dumping physical memory when I boot the computer up. Anyone have any idea why this is happening?


----------



## franz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cdxsuprace*


Anyone having problem running 4GB of rams on Vista 64? I tried to install vista 64 with 4GB of rams and it wouldn't install. I tried with vista 32 and it works fine but only reads 3GB. I then tried to install vista 64 with 2GB of rams and it works fine but when I restart and put in 4GB, it wouldn't boot up. The blue error screen appear saying something about dumping physical memory when I boot the computer up. Anyone have any idea why this is happening?


Here is a link read post 4 from *ericeod.* He has posted this fix many times.

4gb fix for vista


----------



## franz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sirokket16*


Johnny9794 you have an older version of Everest. I just updated mine so I could see the temp. It should read MCP. ...


MCP is actually the Southbridge according to nVidia are you sure Everest is reading the right sensor? Try adjusting the voltage on just the NB to check. I only bring this up because I was considering getting Everest, and I would like to see which chipset it is monitoring. I havent needed to adjust the SB voltage, but am very interested in a program that monitors the NB.


----------



## cdxsuprace

Quote:



Originally Posted by *franz*


Here is a link read post 4 from *ericeod.* He has posted this fix many times.

4gb fix for vista


Got it, thanks franz.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sirokket16*


Ok, I just installed a new version of Everest and apparently my NB temp is around 66C at idle. I know that is very high, but how can I bring that down to a more acceptable level?? Also, could this temp be limiting my overclocking abilities?


you need to have active cooling on your NB and your answer is yes,this NB temp can limit your overclocking abilities.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny9794*


lol, i kinda figured it was the stack cool "maybe" because i believe the ballistix's are made up of the same material and it said that the stuff helps dispense heat or something.

very nice, I really like how the board resets itself so u can get back into bios from wrong overclocks, very handy.

still stress testing and right now i am at 
3.637.4MHz, bus speed 242.5 and fsb 969.9 seems stable.

I have a question, What is pcex16_1 in bios for, seems like i had instability on a overclock then i raised pciex16_1 from 100 to 110 n then that overclock was stable.


pciex16_1 is for overclocking your PCI Express bus speed and I don't know how is can increase your overclock stabilities .









Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny9794*


Where is the temp for NB on everest, i have 3 temps that read around the teens could those be em? screenshot below.


As I post many time before EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1261 Beta and newer beta version show true value about this board and also show MCP temp which is south bridge temp.please post screenshot from those version on Everest.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


ok need someone to chime in on this. My e6700 will not get any higher than 3.2ghz. Strongly debating on either:

1. e8400 
2. q6600

I want the quad for encoding, but doesn't look it works well with this board. The e8400 looks like it overclocks very nicely. Both are $200 at micro center right now. So this is my dilemma.


This mainboard is not so good for overclocking quad core cpu because it has voltage problem with quad core cpu .
About e8400 cpu which is 45 nm cpu just the new 1403 bios can support it but I suggest that you use e8400 with newer boards or wait for newer bios because it's first bios that support 45nm cpus and I still need to be test.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *franz*


MCP is actually the Southbridge according to nVidia are you sure Everest is reading the right sensor? Try adjusting the voltage on just the NB to check. I only bring this up because I was considering getting Everest, and I would like to see which chipset it is monitoring. I havent needed to adjust the SB voltage, but am very interested in a program that monitors the NB.


The best way to read NB temp is to use external sensor or termo meter .at the moment everest show mainboard temp which user said it's NB temp but it's not.It's the temp of the chip on the mainboard .



http://www.lavalys.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2917


----------



## dervman

Hi guys

Although this is my first post here, I have been following this thread for a VERY long time and I'd like to thank you all for helping get the most out of my P5N32-E SLI.

I'll be honest, I hate this board with a passion because it's been a right PITA from day one. First of all the onboard sound stopped working, and then both network ports died too. Turns out the thermal pad on the southbridge hadn't been installed properly and was only covering about three quarters of the chip. This really isnâ€™t acceptable on a Â£125 motherboard from a supposedly premium manufacturer.

Anyway, after discovering that and applying ceramique to both bridges and some 40mm fans, it managed to hit 490MHz FSB. 490MHz FSB with the stock heatpipe setup isn't too bad!! I've attached a couple of pictures just to show the setup I had.

Just to reiterate what others have said: 1203 BIOS with additional cooling is the way to go. Or get a better board


----------



## sirokket16

I was unable to achieve 3.2 (400x8) until I upped the pciex16_1 to 110 and lowered the LDT to 3x. I remembered that on some older motherboards you unlocked the bus by raising the speed from default so I gave it a shot. As strange as that sounds, that helped me out and now I am completely stable at 3.2 with the following voltages:

Vcore 1.35
NB 1.40
SB 1.50
Vht 1.25
Vtt 1.25

As far as the MCP, why does Nvidia consider that the SB? Luckily my case has some temperature sensors in it so I can measure the NB, but why would anyone want a SB monitor instead of a NB? I'm going to have to take the heatsinks off and put some AS5 on both of them I guess. Does anyone recommend doing this? I have active cooling on both of them and my SB still reads in the 60s.

Edit: congrats dervman. I think we all agree with you about this board. Could you post your actual speed and voltages for us as reference? Thanks man and good job.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker* 
pciex16_1 is for overclocking your PCI Express bus speed and I don't know how is can increase your overclock stabilities .









I'm sorry I was wrong, the system did not become more stable or stable at all.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker* 
As I post many time before EVEREST Ultimate Edition 4.20.1261 Beta and newer beta version show true value about this board and also show MCP temp which is south bridge temp.please post screenshot from those version on Everest.










Ok new screenshot for you.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sirokket16* 
I was unable to achieve 3.2 (400x8) until I upped the pciex16_1 to 110 and lowered the LDT to 3x. I remembered that on some older motherboards you unlocked the bus by raising the speed from default so I gave it a shot. As strange as that sounds, that helped me out and now I am completely stable at 3.2 with the following voltages:

Vcore 1.35
NB 1.40
SB 1.50
Vht 1.25
Vtt 1.25

As far as the MCP, why does Nvidia consider that the SB? Luckily my case has some temperature sensors in it so I can measure the NB, but why would anyone want a SB monitor instead of a NB? I'm going to have to take the heatsinks off and put some AS5 on both of them I guess. Does anyone recommend doing this? I have active cooling on both of them and my SB still reads in the 60s.

Edit: congrats dervman. I think we all agree with you about this board. Could you post your actual speed and voltages for us as reference? Thanks man and good job.

LDT Frequency is for connection between NB and SB and I don't know why you need to change it to be able to have stable overclock.









"As far as the MCP, why does Nvidia consider that the SB?"
what do you mean ?
MCP = Multimedia Communications Platform = South Bridge
SPP = System Platform Processor = North Bridge

we want to know temperature of both NB and SB because they both are part of our mainboard and they both temps are important for our overclock stabilities.


----------



## sirokket16

My bad, I confused the two, like I always do. Anyway, Im in the process of finding my NB temp right now. I cant wait to see what it reads.


----------



## sirokket16

AS5 really did nothing for my NB temp and actually made my SB temp increase. I put another fan blowing on the NB and now my temp is around 50C idle. I think I might invest in an Antec SpotCool and put that directly over the NB. This is very frustrating. As soon as I put the side of my case back on the NB temp shoots up and my computer freezes. I guess that was the cause of all my problems.


----------



## FearMeansControl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dervman* 
Just to reiterate what others have said: 1203 BIOS with additional cooling is the way to go. Or get a better board









i should really be staying more on top of this thread, but am i ok with BIOS 1205 as well, or should i really be running 1203?

bios flashing is about the ONLY thing this board can seem to do well


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FearMeansControl* 
i should really be staying more on top of this thread, but am i ok with BIOS 1205 as well, or should i really be running 1203?

bios flashing is about the ONLY thing this board can seem to do well

first of all let me tell you bios 1203 is the best bios for those who want to overclock their system otherwise you can always use the most releast bios for your board.

I have this board,I overclock my cpu very well and I don't have problem with it *BUT* I treat my mainboard and my computer like it's my baby or my girlfriend.

I check temps and other things and whenever I think it need any thing ,I support it.when you want to have good computer with good overclocking abilities you don't just need good mainboard.You also need good power source with clear voltage.you need good ram which was approved for your mainboard and other user who have your mainboard confirmed that they don't have problem with that ram.you need good cpu with approved and confirmed overclocking abilities.you need good cpu cooler which is designed for user who want to overclock their system.like many user said before for this board you need active cooling for your NB and SB (not just a fan on top of stock headsink ,you need pro SB and NB which was specially designed for NB and SN ).you also need some headsink for MOSFETS.you need good case with good air flow and cooling system.you need ....

*THEN YOU CAN SAY OK i HAVE GOOD SYSTEM FOR OVERCLOCKING AND START.*


----------



## dervman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


*THEN YOU CAN SAY OK i HAVE GOOD SYSTEM FOR OVERCLOCKING AND START.*










I agree with you in principle. This motherboard does reward patience and perseverance. I got some very good results with the board, but that doesn't stop it from being a royal pain in the backside!

If you don't need SLI then there are MUCH better options available. I've just downgraded to a P35 board and have not looked back. Everything is just so easy and hassle-free.


----------



## sirokket16

dervman, what are your temps for your bridges after applying those fans? Also, what are your cpu temps and your voltages for all?


----------



## james13009

Hey guy sorry this is a bit off topic,

But i just plugged in one of my raptor HD via a sata port. (Think it was hot swappable) and everything has now turned off and won't switch on again. It all lights up (ie the green light on the board) But nothing happens when i switch the power button

booo hooo ;(


----------



## miya

Well I finally replaced my stock heatpipes with a thermaltake extreme spirit 2 on the NB and a Thermalright HR-05 SLI/IFX on the SB.

Since I'm not on Sli, the HR-05 managed to clear my 8800gts that is cooled by a HR-03 Plus.

Unfortunately, I have to put on some cheapo copper sinks on the mosfets while I wait for the thermalright HR-09 mosfet coolers. The damn copper sinks keep falling off due to their heavy weight... damn i wish those thermalrights can get here faster...

Anyway the thing is, the TT extreme spirit is scalding hot! It's so hot that I'm beginning to wonder whether it's enough for my northbridge...


----------



## Benny99

By hot do u meen u cant keep ure hand on it for longer than 10 seconds ?


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *miya*


Well I finally replaced my stock heatpipes with a thermaltake extreme spirit 2 on the NB and a Thermalright HR-05 SLI/IFX on the SB.

Since I'm not on Sli, the HR-05 managed to clear my 8800gts that is cooled by a HR-03 Plus.

Unfortunately, I have to put on some cheapo copper sinks on the mosfets while I wait for the thermalright HR-09 mosfet coolers. The damn copper sinks keep falling off due to their heavy weight... damn i wish those thermalrights can get here faster...

Anyway the thing is, the TT extreme spirit is scalding hot! It's so hot that I'm beginning to wonder whether it's enough for my northbridge...



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*


By hot do u meen u cant keep ure hand on it for longer than 10 seconds ?



yes it become too hot and thats why I place a 40 mm fan right behind it .


----------



## dervman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sirokket16*


dervman, what are your temps for your bridges after applying those fans? Also, what are your cpu temps and your voltages for all?


I don't know what the exact bridge temperatures were because I didn't have any software that could read those values.

However, I did attach a probe to the southbridge and it read about 55 degrees. Using that as a baseline, I would say the northbridge was around 40 degrees. It was hot to the touch, but not uncomfortably so, which the southbridge was. Adding the fan to the northbridge made a big difference, before that I couldn't touch the heatsink for more than about 5 seconds. It's worth noting that the southbridge fan didn't make much difference.

Normally I ran at 333x9. VCPU was 1.2v (it read 1.18v in windows). VNB needed 1.25v to survive orthos for more than an hour. Everything else was auto/lowest.

The highest I ran was 389x9, which was the max I could get could get from the chip. VCPU was 1.6v, VNB needed 1.3v.

I found the VNB needed 1.4v to get much over 400FSB and the VSB also needed boosting a notch. Then it just seemed to hit a wall at 490FSB where adding more voltage anywhere made things hotter but didn't let it run any faster.


----------



## Benny99

Yea the board is capable of 450+ FSB.

Im Currently running 462.5 FSB on a 8 multi for 3.7ghz 24/7.


----------



## johnny9794

its very little i know but i got to [email protected] with dram 390MHz I ran orthos for 8 hours and 37 minutes and it does not error or crash on me, if I go higher I crash or get errors, friday ima try to pick up 2 of the spirits II, a zaleman 9700 and hopefully the pc store has mosfets or can order some mosfets for me. Then maybe i can raise voltages more and get higher clocks,

For now I took a small fan and placed it in front of the northbridge " i know that will not cut it to keeping temps down like a spirit II"...

EDIT: I anna get a new psu, in the near furture I might be running 2 8800 in SLI but I wanna get a psu now, which would be a good reference for a new psu that will be able to handle a quad core and SLI?

Thanx


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny9794*


EDIT: I anna get a new psu, in the near furture I might be running 2 8800 in SLI but I wanna get a psu now, which would be a good reference for a new psu that will be able to handle a quad core and SLI?

Thanx


I have OCZ GameXStream 850Watt and I don't have any problem with it.It's so quiet and also have Blue led on it.

I just can suggest you it's better that you don't buy PSU with cable management because I hear that they have abit problem with providing clear voltage because you should plug the cable to your PSU.


----------



## Benny99

Hmm new PSU

U want something with a single 12V rail.

This PSU is great for SLI

PC Power and Cooling 750Watt

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817703009

or The Corsair 750 Watt

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139006

Those 2 PSU are enough to RUN SLI.

Both are Very good Power Supplys.


----------



## arjo_reich

Ultra X3 1000W
www.directron.com had these for a steal a while ago.

There are two models, one for SLI compliance, the other for Crossfire, although I think it has more to do with the modular cabling included than anything.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

for more info about good PSU you can check PSU topic .Here is P5N32-E SLI topic so it's better to back to topic.


----------



## TheWire

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


first of all let me tell you bios 1203 is the best bios for those who want to overclock their system otherwise you can always use the most releast bios for your board.

I have this board,I overclock my cpu very well and I don't have problem with it *BUT* I treat my mainboard and my computer like it's my baby or my girlfriend.

I check temps and other things and whenever I think it need any thing ,I support it.when you want to have good computer with good overclocking abilities you don't just need good mainboard.You also need good power source with clear voltage.you need good ram which was approved for your mainboard and other user who have your mainboard confirmed that they don't have problem with that ram.you need good cpu with approved and confirmed overclocking abilities.you need good cpu cooler which is designed for user who want to overclock their system.like many user said before for this board you need active cooling for your NB and SB (not just a fan on top of stock headsink ,you need pro SB and NB which was specially designed for NB and SN ).you also need some headsink for MOSFETS.you need good case with good air flow and cooling system.you need ....

*THEN YOU CAN SAY OK i HAVE GOOD SYSTEM FOR OVERCLOCKING AND START.*










I actually suspect that many so called FSB holes on this board are really hot chipsets... even at stock I seem to remember MCP(the only reading I have... no probe) running high 50's/ low 60's. Seems that this chipset runs hot in that area. So far the limits of my(rather lowly) E2xxx OCing seems to end here(all other issues solved, pencil mod pretty much eliminated all voltage drop/droop issues, such as they were on this CPU... prob more relevant on higher voltage drawing guys like the Quads... hmmm). *Edit* looking back on this thread it's GL coltage huh, well AFAIK Asus could sort this issue out.

Well, for myself I'm going to put together a WC system for this mobo and CPU next month to cool the GPU, SB, NB and CPU(anyone done this? I've usually never actually had to WC a NB/SB mainly due to my OC adventures being on AMD's). Looking at the GPU(41C idle/SB(66C Idle/NB(66C? feels as hot as SB) and voltage regulaters I think I'll need a Olympic swimming pool pump and a Truck radiator for the job!

I am just curious now and am determined to clock this as well as the Intel chipsets in a lowly 2180 then Qcore... if it works out in April I will get my Quad and hopefully 9800GT?. If I still hit have problems with that it will be time to get a new mobo I think and call it a day with this one. On the Quad issue, I really think this is a voltage stability issue also(anyone confirm?). The things I do for SLI... kind of wish I'd bought MSI or something else but I've had bad experiences with those to... heh my first 'difficult' Asus







.


----------



## stefan9

Hi guys.

Any issues with this board and the new dual cores?? I want to replace my 6400 with an new E8500 cpu. But would like to know if there's any big issues with this board , the new bios and that cpu.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stefan9*


Hi guys.

Any issues with this board and the new dual cores?? I want to replace my 6400 with an new E8500 cpu. But would like to know if there's any big issues with this board , the new bios and that cpu.


for this cpu the bios 1403 will be ok but it still have some space for being better because this is the first bios with support of intel 45nm cpu and it's still beta version.


----------



## Benny99

As if be on Xp Persian









Bios 1403 works dunno how well it overclocks

but core 2 duos overclock quite nicely on this board


----------



## Benny99

It is a Regulation Voltage issue with Quads .

Core 2 Duos Overclock well

Also If ure NB and SB are hot just replace the Crappy stock cooling with 2 of these.

http://www.thermaltake.com/product/C...4/cl-c0034.asp

Great little coolers at 3.7ghz my SB is at 40-46 depending on ambient.

And my NB dosent feel hot just warmish.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheWire*


I actually suspect that many so called FSB holes on this board are really hot chipsets... even at stock I seem to remember MCP(the only reading I have... no probe) running high 50's/ low 60's. Seems that this chipset runs hot in that area. So far the limits of my(rather lowly) E2xxx OCing seems to end here(all other issues solved, pencil mod pretty much eliminated all voltage drop/droop issues, such as they were on this CPU... prob more relevant on higher voltage guys like the Quads... hmmm).

Well, for myself I'm going to put together a WC system for this mobo and CPU next month to cool the GPU, SB, NB and CPU(anyone done this? I've usually never actually had to WC a NB/SB mainly due to my OC adventures being on AMD's). Looking at the GPU(41C idle/SB(66C Idle/NB(66C? feels as hot as SB) and voltage regulaters I think I'll need a Olympic swimming pool pump and a Truck radiator for the job!

I am just curious now and am determined to clock this as well as the Intel chipsets in a lowly 2180 then Qcore... if it works out in April I will get my Quad and hopefully 9800GT?. If I still hit have problems with that it will be time to get a new mobo I think and call it a day with this one. On the Quad issue, I really think this is a voltage stability issue also(anyone confirm?). The things I do for SLI... kind of wish I'd bought MSI or something else but I've had bad experiences with those to... heh my first 'difficult' Asus







.


----------



## Makav3li

I have the p5n32-e sli and two raptor x's in a raid 0. Speedfan and a buch of other free programs I tried can't read the hard drives s.m.a.r.t. data. As users of the board do you know a program or way for me to access the smart data of the raided drives? Thanks.


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Makav3li*


I have the p5n32-e sli and two raptor x's in a raid 0. Speedfan and a buch of other free programs I tried can't read the hard drives s.m.a.r.t. data. As users of the board do you know a program or way for me to access the smart data of the raided drives? Thanks.


Exact same problem









@Makav3li
Btw, can you help me (by telling me your overclock settings) to overclock my Q6600 at 3.0GHz also? Am at 2.75GHz atm and want to get more out of it, without damage my proc..


----------



## Benny99

Its gonna be hard to overclock Quads on this board.

Here is why

THE GTL regulation voltage is messed up and getting 3.0ghz stable is hardly possible.

I switched from a Q6600 to a E6750 1203 bios and check this..


----------



## kmatzen

I have been watching this thread for a while and have benefited from everyones knowledge and just want to take a minute to thank everyone. And also request some help. I am new to overclocking and was doing well with this board until just a few days ago. I tried to install new ram and for some reason Vista will not recognize the processor or memory now. In the system information screen all I get is "not available". I cannot open up any apps. I have tried a system restore from Safe mode, reset everything to default, tried reloading from the install disc. Nothing is working. How would I be able to tell if I cooked the NB?


----------



## sirokket16

Do you have any way of monitoring your NB temps?? Have you tried placing the old RAM back in? Check the recommended RAM voltage and make sure its being supplied that amount.


----------



## kmatzen

I don't have a sensor to monitor NB temps. I have an infrared themometer I could use. I reinstalled the old ram, reset everything to default. Bios picks up the processor and ram but Vista doesn't. What would be the symptoms of a cooked NB?


----------



## Tarabass

Hi guys,

I'm new at overclocking and I want to safely overclock my Q660 to 3.0GHz. What settings do I use to get there? Do I only have to up my FSB?

Volts so far:
Vcore 1.35
NB 1.40
SB 1.50
Vht 1.25
Vtt 1.25

Just took that from this thread


----------



## Benny99

U will have trouble getting past 3 or to 3

This is due to THE GTL regulation voltage limit for quads.

Now what bios are u using.

1203 is the best for overclocking.

Voltage wise those are fine.

Use 1203 bios and u should be fine .

Put ure FSB at 1333 keep ure ram at 800mhz.

Do that in Unlinked mode.

Disable Speedstep and CIe

Make sure u have the right ram voltage .

This board like to undervolt ram

Post again if u have any problems


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tarabass* 
Hi guys,

I'm new at overclocking and I want to safely overclock my Q660 to 3.0GHz. What settings do I use to get there? Do I only have to up my FSB?

Volts so far:
Vcore 1.35
NB 1.40
SB 1.50
Vht 1.25
Vtt 1.25

Just took that from this thread









FSB: 1333
CPU vCore: 1.4v
NB: 1.4v or 1.45v
SB: 1.55v
VTT: 1.55v

If you have 4 x 1GB DIMM's, link your RAM and set it to Sync mode (1:1) with your CPU.


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Benny99* 
U will have trouble getting past 3 or to 3

This is due to THE GTL regulation voltage limit for quads.

Now what bios are u using.

1203 is the best for overclocking.

Voltage wise those are fine.

Use 1203 bios and u should be fine .

Put ure FSB at 1333 keep ure ram at 800mhz.

Do that in Unlinked mode.

Disable Speedstep and CIe

Make sure u have the right ram voltage .

This board like to undervolt ram

Post again if u have any problems

First thx for your fast reply. I will take a look at the speedstep and CIe. Probably I disabled it already, but for sure.

I use bios 1205, does this matter? Do I have to downgrade my bios? What would be a good voltage for my ram?

Lot of questions, I know


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


FSB: 1333
If you have 4 x 1GB DIMM's, link your RAM and set it to Sync mode (1:1) with your CPU.


Volts are set. And yes I got 4GB of ram. It's 4x1GB 800MHz GeIL Black Dragon at 4.4.4.12 atm. Should I link it at 1:1, looks to me as extremly high, or am I wrong ?

Should I link or unlink, what's faster? You telling both telling something else


----------



## miya

Err, you probably shouldn't link your ram if you want to run them at 800mhz.

Your FSB of 1333 means that your cpu is running at (1333 / 4) * 9 = 2999.25 mhz. But linking your ram means your ram will run at (1333 / 4) * 2 = 667 mhz.

Which is slower than the intended 800 mhz speed of the ram.

So unlink your ram. Theoretically, linking ram is optimal if when you are going for a FSB of 1600.
Cpu running at (1600 / 4) * 9 = 3600 mhz and ram running at (1600 / 4) * 2 = 800 mhz. And that's the sweet spot for the E6600 duo core. Don't know about the quad cores though.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tarabass*


Volts are set. And yes I got 4GB of ram. It's 4x1GB 800MHz GeIL Black Dragon at 4.4.4.12 atm. Should I link it at 1:1, looks to me as extremly high, or am I wrong ?

Should I link or unlink, what's faster? You telling both telling something else










With the FSB at 1333Mhz, your CPU's FSB will be 333Mhz. Choose the option to *Sync* your RAM so that it runs at the same speed as your CPU's FSB. This will mean that your RAM is only running at 667Mhz but this is necessary as the nForce chipset cannot handle running RAM too much over 1:1 ratio when all memory slots are filled.


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:


Originally Posted by *miya* 
Err, you probably shouldn't link your ram if you want to run them at 800mhz.

Your FSB of 1333 means that your cpu is running at (1333 / 4) * 9 = 2999.25 mhz. But linking your ram means your ram will run at (1333 / 4) * 2 = 667 mhz.

Which is slower than the intended 800 mhz speed of the ram.

So unlink your ram. Theoretically, linking ram is optimal if when you are going for a FSB of 1600.
Cpu running at (1600 / 4) * 9 = 3600 mhz and ram running at (1600 / 4) * 2 = 800 mhz. And that's the sweet spot for the E6600 duo core. Don't know about the quad cores though.

Just my thoughts. I did try to unlick, set my ram at 800 and my cpu at 1333 but had to reset my cmos. It looks like my cpu don't want settings higher then 1221 * 9









Every time I go higher the MB don't post and I have to restart and try lower settings. I'm a bit confused now because I took all the settings from this (still great) thread


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Did you try starting over from system defaults and a fresh CMOS reset?

I agree this board can be finicky with 4x1GB, but it is entirely possible to run more aggressive than 1:1. I ran a whole slew of tests comparing 2x2 with 4x1 and found that 2x2 was no less sensitive. Take a look:


----------



## thedom

just summit that I found ...

I have the quad @ 1333 which gives me 3GHz and teh defining factor for me that was causing crashes was that my board was either overvolting my ram or something. My ram is corsair XMS2 DHX and rated for 2.1V, but setting it to 2.1 caused crashes all the time. I dropped it to 2V and everything was fine.

I also started with 2 gig, which allowed me to run the ram at 4-4-4-12 1T but had to change it to 2T when I added an extra 2 gig in, that was my only change going to 4 gig


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thedom*


I also started with 2 gig, which allowed me to run the ram at 4-4-4-12 1T but had to change it to 2T when I added an extra 2 gig in, that was my only change going to 4 gig


Link your RAM and set it to Sync if you want to be able to run at 1T again. You'll be running your RAM lower than it's rated speed but that's the best you can do as none of he nForce chipsets cope well when all DIMM slots are filled.


----------



## TomasFX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
Link your RAM and set it to Sync if you want to be able to run at 1T again. You'll be running your RAM lower than it's rated speed but that's the best you can do as none of he nForce chipsets cope well when all DIMM slots are filled.


I force my RAM to 1T...It worked some time but that crash
if it is for gaming OK...but if it is for 24/7 and serious business ..nope


----------



## Makav3li

So nobody knows anyway to read the S.M.A.R.T. info for a raptor raid 0 using this board?


----------



## arjo_reich

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Makav3li* 
So nobody knows anyway to read the S.M.A.R.T. info for a raptor raid 0 using this board?

It's a limitation of the RAID controller. Only very high end controllers, the likes of which you wouldn't find integrated into a motherboard can relay SMART info back up to the OS and even then it's not uncommon for only the proprietary software of the controller can read it.

On the EVEREST Ultimate forums there is a stickie pinned that reads...

Workaround for missing SMART info for nVIDIA chipsets under Vista, How to activate SMART info and HDD temperature reading for SATA drives

Quote:

Note: SMART information for RAID array members is not supported by RAID controllers, except for LSI MegaIDE and 3ware PATA/SATA controllers. It's yet again a limitation of RAID driver software, and cannot be fixed from software products like EVEREST.

Also note that the workaround explained below is only suitable for non-RAID configurations, since it is based on non-RAID driver swapping. Even if one would hack WinXP nVIDIA SATA RAID drivers into Vista, it wouldn't make SMART information or HDD temperature work at all.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Yep. SMART doesn't work on Intel's integrated RAID controller, either.

Good catch on the Everest forum. TBH, I didn't even know they had a forum! REP+


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TomasFX*


I force my RAM to 1T...It worked some time but that crash 
if it is for gaming OK...but if it is for 24/7 and serious business ..nope


first set your memory setting to unlinked and then try 4-4-4-12 T1 if it work then try 4-4-4-8 T1 remember both on bus 800 MHZ.


----------



## Benny99

^^ fail


----------



## TomasFX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker* 
first set your memory setting to unlinked and then try 4-4-4-12 T1 if it work then try 4-4-4-8 T1 remember both on bus 800 MHZ.









yes, but I run them 1:1
if I lower mem to 800 than cpu will be 3600 ghz

I think 4050 Ghz is maximum for this chip and board ( 24/7 )
I also was able to boot and run 4150 Ghz ( 462 fsb ) but it was unstable

maybe it is problem in my Memory ..it is buggy


----------



## We Gone

When I started the OC, I disabled these setting per thread. Now that I have a stable OC, would I get any gains in enabling them again?

Execute Disable Bit:
Virtualization Technology:
Enhanced Intel Speedstep:
Enhanced C1 (C1E):

Thanks...


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

In general, the only one of those that I find worthwhile to enable is "Execute Disable Bit", which is a security device against malicious attacks. I don't use any of the others on any of my boards. Virtualization Technology needs special compatible software. Enhanced C1E is a power-saving method, which might lower temperatures but might also affect performance. Speedstep is an Intel technology that simply lowers your multi when the comp is idle. Kind of a waste for a desktop, if you ask me.

Some people report lower temperatures with C1E, but other people report loss of performance. I guess that's the only one I'd consider enabling. I leave it off on my P5N32-E.


----------



## arjo_reich

Virtualization Technology is utilized by software such as VM Workstation (www.vmware.com) - IIRC - which I use pretty heavily on this dev box.


----------



## We Gone

Thanks... I'll just leave them all off as I don't use the rig on the internet. Only on a home network.


----------



## Benny99

Board is capable of 500 FSB


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TomasFX*


yes, but I run them 1:1 
if I lower mem to 800 than cpu will be 3600 ghz

I think 4050 Ghz is maximum for this chip and board ( 24/7 ) 
I also was able to boot and run 4150 Ghz ( 462 fsb ) but it was unstable

maybe it is problem in my Memory ..it is buggy



4050 is the max but not for 24/7 .
for 24/7 the best speed is 3600 or 3700 . (good speed and good temp on load )









there is no problem with your memory.
first switch your memory to unlinked. then set memory to 800 MHZ and timming to 4-4-4-12 T1 and if you don't have problem then switch to 4-4-4-8 T1.









also upgrade your bios to 1203 .


----------



## TomasFX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


4050 is the max but not for 24/7 .
for 24/7 the best speed is 3600 or 3700 . (good speed and good temp on load )









there is no problem with your memory.
first switch your memory to unlinked. then set memory to 800 MHZ and timming to 4-4-4-12 T1 and if you don't have problem then switch to 4-4-4-8 T1.









also upgrade your bios to 1203 .


I run my machine sometimes 15 days without restart ( one core full load ) at 4050 so I am sure it is OK for 24/7

maybe you need to upgrade your cooling ...and try 2T ..than you will get it stable

also I try bios 1203 ( "best OC bios" ) ..but I find it wasnt stable at high freq
for me 1103 is much better ( maybe because of memory )


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TomasFX*


I run my machine sometimes 15 days without restart ( one core full load ) at 4050 so I am sure it is OK for 24/7

maybe you need to upgrade your cooling ...and try 2T ..than you will get it stable

also I try bios 1203 ( "best OC bios" ) ..but I find it wasnt stable at high freq
for me 1103 is much better ( maybe because of memory )


I think you can achieve this performance and stay on it for 24/7 system because of your good watercooling system.


----------



## arjo_reich

Has anyone else noticed that their board overvolts the ram? The manufacturer's settings for my DDR2 RAM is 2.2v, however if I set it at 2.2000v volts in the BIOS that it will give the RAM 2.253v instead. I currently have it set to 2.175v for an actual reading of 2.221v ...

This is consistent for me using the 1203, 1302 or 1403 BIOS and I was just wondering if it was specifically my board or if other's noticed it as well. <shrug>


----------



## mica3speedy

what program are you using to measure your ram voltage?


----------



## abe_joker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arjo_reich* 
Has anyone else noticed that their board overvolts the ram? The manufacturer's settings for my DDR2 RAM is 2.2v, however if I set it at 2.2000v volts in the BIOS that it will give the RAM 2.253v instead. I currently have it set to 2.175v for an actual reading of 2.221v ...

This is consistent for me using the 1203, 1302 or 1403 BIOS and I was just wondering if it was specifically my board or if other's noticed it as well. <shrug>

that's completely true...i had mine for 2.1v and it was receiving 2.18, so i did exactly the same as you and put it in 2.075v and now it says 2.14...lol


----------



## Benny99

Yea it does over volt ure ram

I set it to 2.20v in bios read it as 2.24 in Hw Monitor


----------



## TomasFX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


I think you can achieve this performance and stay on it for 24/7 system because of your good watercooling system.










of course you need to have good cooling system ...but also I think great PSU is a must if you want high freq 24/7
before, I have Tagan 500 W, and max what I get was 3800...
4050 was able to boot , but soon restart

I know all this will burn my system ...but who cares







...I have 2 years warnty ....and after two year all this would be worthelss rubbish anyway

are you runing 1T 24/7 ?


----------



## slytown

The commad rate should be set to whatever the RAM's default is. Different RAM can handle 2T. The difference between 1 and 2 is not big genrally.

Yes, this board undervolts RAM. First thing to do with the board is set it manually to your RAMs rated default voltage. Only other thing is to update the BIOS. Your monitor will show a higher voltage than what you set it, but that is not an issue. Same thing with program monitors like everest and CPU-z.


----------



## Anubis_offline

just blowup 1 of mine Ocz pc8500 dim and very old (2003) maxtor hd sata.
did i go to far sb v1.6









vcore v1.6
1.2vvt v1.4
mem V2.250
nb v1.55
sb v1.6
VVT v1.55

now i am a bite emotioneel, yes i love mine hardware


----------



## ryno118

hi. im trying to o/c my E6700 cpu and i hear it can be o/c'ed to 3.6GHz, so i started to up the fsb after doing the whole setting the voltage and all the other stuff and got upto 1350MHz (QDR) and all was good with my CPU running around 3.3GHz but i noticed that on the AI BOOSTER that starts up every time i log in there is a bar that runs through the middle of the display that starts of green go pass yellow and into red that goes up every time you rise the FSB. at first i thought this might be the system temp but as the temp moves the bar stays still. is this bar a FSB limit bar? and if so is it not a good idea to be in the red? and also what is a safe system temp? please help. thanks.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TomasFX*


of course you need to have good cooling system ...but also I think great PSU is a must if you want high freq 24/7
before, I have Tagan 500 W, and max what I get was 3800...
4050 was able to boot , but soon restart

I know all this will burn my system ...but who cares







...I have 2 years warnty ....and after two year all this would be worthelss rubbish anyway

are you runing 1T 24/7 ?


yes I'm running 4-4-4-8 T1 24/7 and I don't have any problem with it .









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anubis_offline*


just blowup 1 of mine Ocz pc8500 dim and very old (2003) maxtor hd sata.
did i go to far sb v1.6









vcore v1.6 
1.2vvt v1.4
mem V2.250
nb v1.55 
sb v1.6
VVT v1.55

now i am a bite emotioneel, yes i love mine hardware










your vcore is too high for your cpu if you like your cpu then please lower it.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryno118*


hi. im trying to o/c my E6700 cpu and i hear it can be o/c'ed to 3.6GHz, so i started to up the fsb after doing the whole setting the voltage and all the other stuff and got upto 1350MHz (QDR) and all was good with my CPU running around 3.3GHz but i noticed that on the AI BOOSTER that starts up every time i log in there is a bar that runs through the middle of the display that starts of green go pass yellow and into red that goes up every time you rise the FSB. at first i thought this might be the system temp but as the temp moves the bar stays still. is this bar a FSB limit bar? and if so is it not a good idea to be in the red? and also what is a safe system temp? please help. thanks.


Fist of all uninstall any AI BOOSTER software from your system.the old bios support it and then they just remove it because it do noting on this board.

your cpu is E6700 ,please run cpu-z and tell me what is your cpu stepping .is it L2 or B2 ?


----------



## ryno118

the steping is 6 and it is b2


----------



## mica3speedy

alright I've decided to upgrade to an e8400. My question is this, since that chip runs 1.36-1.4v max do need to do anything with my other voltages? Besides updating to the latest bios, here are my current voltages:

Vcore: 1.35
nb: 1.4
sb: 1.5
1.2ht: 1.3
Vtt: 1.55


----------



## complexlogic

That's a high vcore for the e8400 unless you are OCed to the max. I get a 3.6Ghz OC on 1.2320v and a 4Ghz OC on 1.35v. My CPU VTT is 1.3v


----------



## miya

Decided to go crazy and dropped every Thermalright solution I can think of on my components.

Apparently it's possible to put an Ultra120E on the cpu, HR-05 IFX with 80x15 fan on the northbridge, HR-09s and HR-09u on the mosfets, HR-03 plus on my 8800 gts, HR-05 SLI/IFX on the Southbridge and HR-07 on my rams.

Most of them are touching each other at the fins though but I figured it doesn't really matter.


----------



## mica3speedy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *complexlogic*


That's a high vcore for the e8400 unless you are OCed to the max. I get a 3.6Ghz OC on 1.2320v and a 4Ghz OC on 1.35v. My CPU VTT is 1.3v


yeah I know, I was just wondering about the other voltages. Hopefully this time around I'll get a better overclocking chip than my e6700 and like you hit 4ghz at 1.35v vcore. Would my nb voltages be fine or would they need to be lowered or raised with the e8400?


----------



## mica3speedy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *miya*


Decided to go crazy and dropped every Thermalright solution I can think of on my components.

Apparently it's possible to put an Ultra120E on the cpu, HR-05 IFX with 80x15 fan on the northbridge, HR-09s and HR-09u on the mosfets, HR-03 plus on my 8800 gts, HR-05 SLI/IFX on the Southbridge and HR-07 on my rams.

Most of them are touching each other at the fins though but I figured it doesn't really matter.




that's a crazy setup







. Did you do a before and after temp readings? I may have to copy you (at least partially). Though my temps don't look too bad in everest motherboard: 25c, mcp 52c. But it looks like the motherboard temp isn't the true nb temp so I'm a little concerned about that since this board does run warm. Now I do have a silverstone blasting in at 2200rpm that keeps the motherboard temps from hitting 34c when it is off








. I'm wondering if I would need a fan on the hr-05 on the nb with that fan.


----------



## mica3speedy

oh it looks like the 1403 bios is no longer beta...


----------



## Jaxte

Hi all and sorry for my bad english.

There is way to downgrade from 1403.

So I reader some other forums and did come this solution.

One floppy boot disk (easiest way to me get to dos)
USB stick with awdflash 1.8 (first tried 1.6, but it didn't recognize bios chip at all, was unknown. 1.8 version recognizes) + bios file (in this case 1203)

Loaded bios defaults, boot from floppy, my USB stick was "C:", "c:\\awdflash /f" (/f stands for force, without it program says same that ez-flash "can't blaablaa")

Choosed correct bios file, crossed my fingers and booted up with 1203.

With 1403 I cound't lower cpu multi, change FSB to any value or Auto to unlinked/linked. Maybe it is my E4500 why it did that, dunno.

So I was on the "edge" nothing to lose, must do something if mb goes dead I buy new one (or go and get another bios rom). 
But it worked :/ so I continue my journey with this mb.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryno118*


the steping is 6 and it is b2


your cpu is E6700 with B2 stepping :

E6x00: Tcase Max 60c, B2 Stepping, Tjunction Max 85c, Vcore Default 1.3525, TDP 65w, Delta 15c +/- 3

-Tcase/Tjunction-
--60--/--75--75-- Hot
--55--/--70--70-- Warm
--50--/--65--65-- Safe
--25--/--40--40-- Cool

Tcase = CPU temp
Tjunction = Cores temp

delta = Tjunction - Tcase

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jaxte*


Hi all and sorry for my bad english.

There is way to downgrade from 1403.

So I reader some other forums and did come this solution.

One floppy boot disk (easiest way to me get to dos)
USB stick with awdflash 1.8 (first tried 1.6, but it didn't recognize bios chip at all, was unknown. 1.8 version recognizes) + bios file (in this case 1203)

Loaded bios defaults, boot from floppy, my USB stick was "C:", "c:awdflash /f" (/f stands for force, without it program says same that ez-flash "can't blaablaa")

Choosed correct bios file, crossed my fingers and booted up with 1203.

With 1403 I cound't lower cpu multi, change FSB to any value or Auto to unlinked/linked. Maybe it is my E4500 why it did that, dunno.

So I was on the "edge" nothing to lose, must do something if mb goes dead I buy new one (or go and get another bios rom). 
But it worked :/ so I continue my journey with this mb.


Nice post and you earn REP+ for it .


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *miya*


Decided to go crazy and dropped every Thermalright solution I can think of on my components.

Apparently it's possible to put an Ultra120E on the cpu, HR-05 IFX with 80x15 fan on the northbridge, HR-09s and HR-09u on the mosfets, HR-03 plus on my 8800 gts, HR-05 SLI/IFX on the Southbridge and HR-07 on my rams.

Most of them are touching each other at the fins though but I figured it doesn't really matter.




Holy crap, man!

The weight of your rig must be out of this world not to mention the stress being put on the motherboard mounting points.

Definitly not something you want to be carting around from LAN party to LAN party unless you're running it on it's side.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *miya* 
Decided to go crazy and dropped every Thermalright solution I can think of on my components.

Apparently it's possible to put an Ultra120E on the cpu, HR-05 IFX with 80x15 fan on the northbridge, HR-09s and HR-09u on the mosfets, HR-03 plus on my 8800 gts, HR-05 SLI/IFX on the Southbridge and HR-07 on my rams.

Most of them are touching each other at the fins though but I figured it doesn't really matter.
(SNIP!)[/URL]

Wow. LOL @ the RAM heatspreaders. Would those work on 4x1GB?

Do you have other pictures of this wicked setup?


----------



## Benny99

Lol not needed just wasting Cash + u really like thermalright products dont u









Quote:


Originally Posted by *miya* 
Decided to go crazy and dropped every Thermalright solution I can think of on my components.

Apparently it's possible to put an Ultra120E on the cpu, HR-05 IFX with 80x15 fan on the northbridge, HR-09s and HR-09u on the mosfets, HR-03 plus on my 8800 gts, HR-05 SLI/IFX on the Southbridge and HR-07 on my rams.

Most of them are touching each other at the fins though but I figured it doesn't really matter.


----------



## miya

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*


Lol not needed just wasting Cash + u really like thermalright products dont u










Yeah, it's kinda wasting cash really and totally unnecessary. Might as well go watercooling... but dang it, all the shiny fins look kinda cool... Oh well, I'm all for the bling...

Here are a few more pics...


----------



## Benny99

hahah


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*


hahah











This watercooling solution should Be good for this mainboard too :


----------



## mica3speedy

has anybody have any positive results with this board and the e8400? How is the 1403 bios with this chip? Any issues or problems that should be known? I already know the voltage limitations of the chip and that's not an issue, just the specifications of the chip.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


This watercooling solution should Be good for this mainboard too :










OMG, ROFL!!!










@Mica3speedy: I got that chip to 4.0 on the P5N32-E. I wasn't using 1403, so it was a PITA. I was pumping 1.4v to the chip, but it was still really cool (low fifties at load, IIRC). I think you should be fine with the new revision.


----------



## Milisav

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


has anybody have any positive results with this board and the e8400? How is the 1403 bios with this chip? Any issues or problems that should be known? I already know the voltage limitations of the chip and that's not an issue, just the specifications of the chip.


hi! 
i bought e8400 and put it on my p5ne32-e sli, but firts i flash 1403 bios with old cpu. everithing was ok, but i can't get it stable over 3.6GHz, he loaded win and works with spi1m at 4.2 ghz, but unstable, also, it is unstable on 3.82, 3.9..etc, no matter what i do to motherbouard. i get proper cooling for chipset and raise voltage high above defolt and nothing,only i got is bsod. how can i manage higher fsb on this combo of MB and CPU?


----------



## franz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *miya*


Decided to go crazy and dropped every Thermalright solution I can think of on my components.

Apparently it's possible to put an Ultra120E on the cpu, HR-05 IFX with 80x15 fan on the northbridge, HR-09s and HR-09u on the mosfets, HR-03 plus on my 8800 gts, HR-05 SLI/IFX on the Southbridge and HR-07 on my rams.

Most of them are touching each other at the fins though but I figured it doesn't really matter.


I always wondered if you could squeeze the HR-05 under a TRUE thanks for the info.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jaxte*


Hi all and sorry for my bad english.

There is way to downgrade from 1403.

So I reader some other forums and did come this solution.

One floppy boot disk (easiest way to me get to dos)
USB stick with awdflash 1.8 (first tried 1.6, but it didn't recognize bios chip at all, was unknown. 1.8 version recognizes) + bios file (in this case 1203)

Loaded bios defaults, boot from floppy, my USB stick was "C:", "c:awdflash /f" (/f stands for force, without it program says same that ez-flash "can't blaablaa")

Choosed correct bios file, crossed my fingers and booted up with 1203.

With 1403 I cound't lower cpu multi, change FSB to any value or Auto to unlinked/linked. Maybe it is my E4500 why it did that, dunno.

So I was on the "edge" nothing to lose, must do something if mb goes dead I buy new one (or go and get another bios rom). 
But it worked :/ so I continue my journey with this mb.


Great advice I had the same problem, and was able to do a similar fix with a bootable CD.


----------



## mica3speedy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Milisav*


hi! 
i bought e8400 and put it on my p5ne32-e sli, but firts i flash 1403 bios with old cpu. everithing was ok, but i can't get it stable over 3.6GHz, he loaded win and works with spi1m at 4.2 ghz, but unstable, also, it is unstable on 3.82, 3.9..etc, no matter what i do to motherbouard. i get proper cooling for chipset and raise voltage high above defolt and nothing,only i got is bsod. how can i manage higher fsb on this combo of MB and CPU?


the key is start off slow







. Don't increase your vcore above 1.37, as that will key your chip pretty quick. In extreame tweaker set your voltages to the following:

vcore: 1.36 (max) I would say try 1.35 and see what you can get from that
nb: 1.4
sb: 1.5
1.2ht: 1.3
mem: depends on your ram
cpu vtt: 1.55

also, under fsb set your fsb and ram to unlinked, that way you can concentrate on overclocking your cpu. I wouldn't be surprised if it was your ram holding you back from getting a stable overclock. Good luck and let us know how it goes!


----------



## sirokket16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *miya* 
Yeah, it's kinda wasting cash really and totally unnecessary. Might as well go watercooling... but dang it, all the shiny fins look kinda cool... Oh well, I'm all for the bling...

Here are a few more pics...


It doesnt look like you can fit your 8-pin ATX connector in there from the looks of that pic. Can you?


----------



## Toe Cutter

I read the post on how to overclock a Q6600 CPU. I have one with a Zalman heat sink on a Asus Striker Extreme motherboard and followed your instructions and was not able to use the cpu mutiplier. The only way I could overclock this cpu was to use the A.I. overclock in the bios by 5, 10 ,15 and 20%. I have read other articals where people have overclocked there Q6600 to 3.2Ghz. The best I can get at 20% is 2.89Ghz and its not stable. If I overclock this way I can't set any other values other that voltages and if i try to it just will not reboot. It also changes the latency settings for my ram to 6-5-6-24 instead of 4-4-4-12 and this way also overclocks my FBS and ram speeds.

Please Help!!!

System- motherboard Asus Stricker Extreme, Q6600 CPU with Zalman 9700 heat sink, 4GB Corsair XMS2 4-4-4-12, (1)BFG 8800GTX, Cool Master Stacker 2 case with 1000watt power supply, 4 120 mm fans.


----------



## Toe Cutter

Q6600 Overclocking

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I read the post on how to overclock a Q6600 CPU. I have one with a Zalman heat sink on a Asus Striker Extreme motherboard and followed your instructions and was not able to use the cpu mutiplier. The only way I could overclock this cpu was to use the A.I. overclock in the bios by 5, 10 ,15 and 20%. I have read other articals where people have overclocked there Q6600 to 3.2Ghz. The best I can get at 20% is 2.89Ghz and its not stable. If I overclock this way I can't set any other values other that voltages and if i try to it just will not reboot. It also changes the latency settings for my ram to 6-5-6-24 instead of 4-4-4-12 and this way also overclocks my FBS and ram speeds.

Please Help!!!

System- motherboard Asus Stricker Extreme, Q6600 CPU with Zalman 9700 heat sink, 4GB Corsair XMS2 4-4-4-12, (1)BFG 8800GTX, Cool Master Stacker 2 case with 1000watt power supply, 4 120 mm fans.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Toe Cutter* 
Q6600 Overclocking

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I read the post on how to overclock a Q6600 CPU. I have one with a Zalman heat sink on a Asus Striker Extreme motherboard and followed your instructions and was not able to use the cpu mutiplier. The only way I could overclock this cpu was to use the A.I. overclock in the bios by 5, 10 ,15 and 20%. I have read other articals where people have overclocked there Q6600 to 3.2Ghz. The best I can get at 20% is 2.89Ghz and its not stable. If I overclock this way I can't set any other values other that voltages and if i try to it just will not reboot. It also changes the latency settings for my ram to 6-5-6-24 instead of 4-4-4-12 and this way also overclocks my FBS and ram speeds.

Please Help!!!

System- motherboard Asus Stricker Extreme, Q6600 CPU with Zalman 9700 heat sink, 4GB Corsair XMS2 4-4-4-12, (1)BFG 8800GTX, Cool Master Stacker 2 case with 1000watt power supply, 4 120 mm fans.

Try losing the ram timings like so? 5-5-5-15 tRC30 2t in the bios, hit delete key apon startup to enter bios. see if that helps


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## Toe Cutter

I can't change the ram timing when I overclock. I have to set everything to auto or it will not boot. Now if I don't overclock I can set the ram timings and I don't have any problems.


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## johnny9794

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Toe Cutter* 
I can't change the ram timing when I overclock. I have to set everything to auto or it will not boot. Now if I don't overclock I can set the ram timings and I don't have any problems.

My guess maybe raise voltages little by little. with 5-5-5-15 2t trc30.

I could not boot up to 3.7 today until i raised my cpu voltage to 1.5v BUT thats my p4 and p5n32-e sli.

sorry i could not help anymore.

also fill out your system specs with bios version ect from user control panel, others might be able to help you with all the info.


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## johnny9794

are you mirroring your two hdd's? sata raid 0 ect?


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## miya

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sirokket16*


It doesnt look like you can fit your 8-pin ATX connector in there from the looks of that pic. Can you?


Yes you can. Or else Thermalright would have to remove the board from the compatibility list.

But to be honest, it's a tight squeeze. The outer fin is kinda in the way of the atx connector... but you can always bend it a little and it'll clear.


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## yappmeister

Hi guys,
Having a few problems overclocking a q6600 chip on my P5N32-E Sli mobo. It seems i can get the FSB up to about 1255MHz but any more than that and it fails to post. Ive unlinked the memory (its set to ~800 MHz), and disabled the options as asked in the general overclocking guide at the start of this thread.

System info thus:
Q6600 (G0 stepping)
P5N32-E Sli 
Generic (novatech) 4gb DDR2800 RAM 
is there anything else u need to kno??

Ive never played with timing on RAM before so i've stayed away from that as i dont want to do anything silly. Also havent updated the Bios at all, its how it came out the box (not sure how to checkwhich version it is - however must be higher than 1002 as the linkboost option is not there).

Any suggestions? Im fairly new to overclocking so its quite possible there is a very simple solution as ive done something ******ed. Thanks (pre-emptively)


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## Dostoyevsky77

*Yappmeister*, fill in your full specs HERE and tell us what your voltages are in BIOS. What do you have the RAM set to for speed, timings, and voltage? Can you link us to the specs page of the exact RAM you have? Is it 2x2GB or 4x1?


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## yappmeister

Voltages:
vcore 1.32
Memory 1.87
need anymore??

Memory is 4x1gb -

http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/s...l?RAM-80%2F1GB

This is the ram i got.

Memory timings a re 5-5-5-18-T2


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## Dostoyevsky77

Yes, please give me VTT, and vNB. 4x1 can be tricky with this board, and can sometimes require a little vNB. Unfortunately, as you already know from reading Robilar's first post, this often requires aftermarket cooling. Let's see where you are now, first.


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## yappmeister

Vcore Voltage = 1.32V
Memory Voltage = 1.87V
1.2V HT Voltage = 1.24V
NB Voltage = 1.34V
SB Voltage = 1.52V
CPU VTT Voltage = 1.36V
DDR2 Termination Voltage = 0.94V
3.3V Voltage = 3.28V
5V Voltage = 4.97V
12V Voltage = 11.64V

Thanks


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## cognoscenti

Seems like forever since I had this board running as its been sitting round in the superseded products box for me.
The board still had 0602 bios on it! lol updated now to 1203?

Anyway thought I should connect it up again with its E6850 (the E6600 that once lived with it has long since gone to a new owner) and try some high clock folding for stress tests.

I didnt bother with slow increments since I'm merely playing with the old kit, I dialed in 1680 FSB and 1.45V and away I went.

This was a really good board back in the day.


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## Dostoyevsky77

*Yappy*, I wonder if you might benefit from re-reading Robilar's first post. He will tell you (and I can confirm) that increased VTT (or FSB termination) will offer stability with no temperature penalty. Something that isn't on his post, however, is that this board is sketchy with 4x1. You need more vNB. I think you can do 1.4v safely without aftermarket cooling, but consider some of the things discussed on the first post. An Tt Spirit II + two pair of Swiftech 21's will cost you around USD$30. If you want to go places with the Q6600, it isn't that much of an outlay.

*Cognoscenti*, thanks for honoring us with your presence! It was when you were done with this board that I was just beginning with it. It's now running my wife's E6750, but I still play around with it from time-to-time (I ran my E8400 on it @ 4.05 with revision 1302 like it was a Frankenstinian monster with some kind of success, in the vaguest definition of the word). It's good to see you drop by, and thanks for sharing some numbers. Of course, REP for doing so. ***EDIT: For all the money you spend on your rig, why won't you buy Everest Ultimate???


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## cognoscenti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 

*Cognoscenti*, thanks for honoring us with your presence! It was when you were done with this board that I was just beginning with it. It's now running my wife's E6750, but I still play around with it from time-to-time (I ran my E8400 on it @ 4.05 with revision 1302 like it was a Frankenstinian monster with some kind of success, in the vaguest definition of the word). It's good to see you drop by, and thanks for sharing some numbers. Of course, REP for doing so. ***EDIT: For all the money you spend on your rig, why won't you buy Everest Ultimate???

Nice to meet you.








This used to be one of my favourite threads and a lot of good people have contributed here.

Everest? Lol, It was a fresh vista install and I didn't have my Apps drive handy,so i quickly downloaded Everest Free version ;-)


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## alexisd

Im still using this board from day 1 without any problems.The only thing i have been away a bit due to work and modding my truck.
Hey cog that's the setting im using for a long time now.Nice seeya around again.


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## Litlratt

The old crew is still around. hehehe


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## sirokket16

Would you guys recommend replacing the thermal "pads" that are on the heatsinks around the CPU socket with a better thermal interface material like silicone or AS5?? I can't imagine that those pads have any decent thermal properties.


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sirokket16* 
Would you guys recommend replacing the thermal "pads" that are on the heatsinks around the CPU socket with a better thermal interface material like silicone or AS5?? I can't imagine that those pads have any decent thermal properties.

Go for it,and don't forget don't use a lot.Protect the socket all the time just in case.You don't want a mess.


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## yappmeister

still no luck in getting the FSB (unlinked) over 1255 (effective CPU of 2.823 GHz) - have tried all routes suggested with VNb and VTT with no success. By any chance any last stab guesses? Would it be worth trying with only 2 of the ram chips in?


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## HauntSheep

Thought i'd ask on this thread since its more fitting...

4Ghz with this lil setup?








[/IMG]

I see 500FSB is pretty easy for this board

I'd be on 450 x 9

I wont be putting aftermarket cooling on the board, but i have 2 spare fans to put whereever i like, think that will do ok?

Cheers =)


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## Dostoyevsky77

Any chance of rethinking that for an Intel chipset? Especially since you have ATI, you might prefer a Crossfire board. Consider the P5E and DFI's X38s. You'll get the E8400 higher with more stability. 4.0GHz is possible on the P5N32-E, but the 45nm BIOS revision still seems to be giving some people grief.

*Yappmeister*, try 2GB. It might be the memory. As I said, 4x1 is sketchy on this board... doable, but sketchy. Right now, I'm running 2x2GB G.Skill PC2-8000s on my P5N32-E for that very reason. I also have to run 1.45 vNB (which doesn't come advised on the stock cooling, even with excellent case circulation) for any of my 4x1 combinations. I also had to overvolt RAM to around 2.25v when specification was 2.2. 2x2GB gives me none of these problems.


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## HauntSheep

I forgot to say, im gettin an 8800GT or an 8800GTS[G92] soon ^^


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## HauntSheep

@ Dostoyevsky77, Explain what you mean by giving people grief

All i know atm is that they are supposed to be very voltage sensitive, yet i've seen people running the E8500 for suicide runs @1.98v!


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## FilluX

Hi guys! i would need some help with overclocking my q6600 go (p5n32-e sli)

It is now at 3,0 ghz, but i am not sure if it is super stable, and i would like to go higher

(have got a tr ultra 120 extreme)

Could anybody be veryvery kind and give me all voltage and fsb settings that i would need to put in the bios for a 3,2 or 3,4 ghz oc?

Oh and also, wich Bios version u are running on.

Thanx very much!


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## slytown

Dosty, was that you that cut the heatpipes on the 680i chipset and said don't pinch the pipes shut?


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## Dostoyevsky77

Yes. I said in retrospect that I probably shouldn't have pinched them shut because that way, air can circulate within the pipe as well as around it.

In reality, it probably doesn't make a hair of difference. It comes down to aesthetics.

There's no special gas in there or tiny magic leprechauns that will loose their way if the pipes are left open.


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## HauntSheep

Is the P5N32 Not PC8500 Compatible? =/


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## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HauntSheep*


Is the P5N32 Not PC8500 Compatible? =/


Where did you read that, the QVL? A lot of people misunderstand the QVL to be a limitation or restriction when, in fact, it is merely a list of RAM the mobo manufacturer explicitly tests on each board. Just because ASUS didn't test PC2-8500 doesn't mean it won't work. In fact, you can OC to 1066MHz and WELL beyond on the P5N32-E. Keep in mind, RAM manufacturers also have their own QVL, which is often significantly more extensive than the mobo manufacturer's one. This is because it is so much more advantageous for them to express explicit compatibility than for the motherboard manufacturer to. When considering RAM, almost any DDR2 RAM will work on almost any DDR2 board.

Personally, I have OC'ed all of the following RAM on the P5N32-E well beyond specifications.

Corsair XMS2 PC2-6400
Dominator C5D (v1.0 with the Micron D9GMH) PC2-8500
Ballistix PC2-8500 (4x1)
G.Skill PC2-8000 (2x2)


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## HauntSheep

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...d=5&subcat=174

States PC 6400..

-IntelÂ® Quad-core CPU Ready
- IntelÂ® Core™2 Extreme/Core™2 Duo Ready
- NVIDIA nForceÂ® SLI™
- NVIDIA Quad-SLI™ Ready
- Dual-channel DDR2 800/667/533
- 1333**/1066/800/533MHz
(** available when CPUs are ready for 1333MHz FSB)
- SupremeFX/DTS connect
- Stack Cool2 and Heat-pipe Thermal Solution
- 8 Phase Power Design

=/

I might go for an X38 Board...but me Zalman 9700 might not fit across all the heatpipes

*Considering this for an E8400...

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...d=5&subcat=946 *


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## Dostoyevsky77

On a P5E or a Maximus, there's no clearance issue with the Zalman 9700 (or a Tuniq or a TRUE120).

I understand the specifications for the board. What I'm trying to say is that the specifications are not a limitation or restriction.

I wouldn't say I run RAM at above PC2-6400 speeds if I didn't actually run RAM at above PC2-6400 speeds. I didn't just make that up.










You may insist it isn't possible, but my own experience offers otherwise. Please find enclosed benchmarks for a variety of RAM in a variety of configurations at speeds that exceed PC2-8500.


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## HauntSheep

Ooh snazzy, cheers mate =)

E8400
P5N32
2GB BallistiX PC8500
Zalman9700

Should see me 4Ghz =)


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## HauntSheep

Still might consider an X38 board though, like the P5E - Worth it?


----------



## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Yes. I said in retrospect that I probably shouldn't have pinched them shut because that way, air can circulate within the pipe as well as around it.

In reality, it probably doesn't make a hair of difference. It comes down to aesthetics.

There's no special gas in there or tiny magic leprechauns that will loose their way if the pipes are left open.


Thanks man. I've been looking around forever about that post you and uslatin had awhile back. Is it better to cut it off right at the mosfet or leave the whole pipe?

People that type in colors make me kill things. :|


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## mica3speedy

regarding bios 1403, should I update to it before or after I put in the e8400. Normally I know that updating beforehand is the best method, but I don't have a floppy to perform the "fix" to go back to 1203 or any other previous bios version. Will the e8400 even boot with the 1203 bios?


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## Dostoyevsky77

Why don't you use EZFlash with a USB drive?


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## marky07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
regarding bios 1403, should I update to it before or after I put in the e8400. Normally I know that updating beforehand is the best method, but I don't have a floppy to perform the "fix" to go back to 1203 or any other previous bios version. Will the e8400 even boot with the 1203 bios?

I ran the E8400 with 1203 no problems. I did reset the bios to standard settings before swapping the CPU's though. When it boots it won't recognise the E8400 and sets multi to 6 but runs the PC. I then used the bios feature with a USB drive to update to 1403 when it came out. All sweet, no problems yet.


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## mica3speedy

so no problems then with the 1403 bios. Are you using the beta 1403, or non beta?


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## johnny9794

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marky07* 
I ran the E8400 with 1203 no problems. I did reset the bios to standard settings before swapping the CPU's though. When it boots it won't recognise the E8400 and sets multi to 6 but runs the PC. I then used the bios feature with a USB drive to update to 1403 when it came out. All sweet, no problems yet.

could you get some pics of the 1403 bios?

I know some things were takin out and some oc option's been taken out aswell?


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## mica3speedy

make sure of the following:
-can we change the multi
-link, unlink, sync the ram with fsb
-change fsb
-change ram spd
-change nb, vcore, 1.2ht, mem, sb, and vtt voltages

As long as we can do the above with the 1403 bios, I think we are good. Let us know what you find.


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## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


make sure of the following:
-can we change the multi
-link, unlink, sync the ram with fsb
-change fsb
-change ram spd
-change nb, vcore, 1.2ht, mem, sb, and vtt voltages

As long as we can do the above with the 1403 bios, I think we are good. Let us know what you find.


thank ya, thats explains it much better than I...


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## marky07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
make sure of the following:
-can we change the multi
-link, unlink, sync the ram with fsb
-change fsb
-change ram spd
-change nb, vcore, 1.2ht, mem, sb, and vtt voltages

As long as we can do the above with the 1403 bios, I think we are good. Let us know what you find.

Yes to all the above. There was one added feature, supposedly to add more oc options but I couldn't find any more after activating it. The oc features appear to me, to be exactly the same as 1203. Everything works. I'm still using 1403 Beta. Maybe the finished release of 1403 is better. Don't know as I'm having no problems with the beta. If it aint broke, don't fix it.


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## mica3speedy

cool, I'll probably update tonight and hope for the best.


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## Milisav

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


the key is start off slow







. Don't increase your vcore above 1.37, as that will key your chip pretty quick. In extreame tweaker set your voltages to the following:

vcore: 1.36 (max) I would say try 1.35 and see what you can get from that
nb: 1.4
sb: 1.5
1.2ht: 1.3
mem: depends on your ram
cpu vtt: 1.55

also, under fsb set your fsb and ram to unlinked, that way you can concentrate on overclocking your cpu. I wouldn't be surprised if it was your ram holding you back from getting a stable overclock. Good luck and let us know how it goes!


tnx 4 advice!
@3.9GHz when i set vcore 1.36v below, i got bsod, but increasing voltage to 1.38-1.39v got me orthos and game stability (effective 1.35v on load), other voltages that you suggested are the same as mine, stable @ 433FSB. when i set 438, with slightly increased nb and ht voltages, it was stable on orthos 45min (i canceled), but everything that include hdd loading, for example, loading games, ends with a bsod or error message. also, i thought that maybe PSU is weak, and i tried to eliminate that by removing one GPU, but the result was the same. 
at this moment i'm a lil bit short of time, but i'll try to find an exellent pair of memory and try with them.


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## Greg2008uk

Hey,

I have the plus version of the bored (wish I had known about this forum before)!

I have followed the guide for the p5n32, all the same options are available and I am running the 1002 bios! When in bios I select the unlinked option and raise the FSB, I save and restart, however the setting don't apply and the CPU is still at stock settings! Would be great if any one has any ideas?


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## johnny9794

Just got my extreme spirit II and mosfets installed.
Pic with the extreme on the mobo, with the mobo out, I installed it kinda backwards thinking it was like how a cpu fan is on a cpu heatsink, but found out it was blowing in the wrong direction so i reversed it and that is the pic of the extreme inside the case. Mosfets came out very nice.

Photo's are from my phone its kinda crappy


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## slytown

Looks good Johnny. Now get that ugly CPU cooler off there.


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## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


Looks good Johnny. Now get that ugly CPU cooler off there.


OH Yeaa!!! Cannot wait.


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## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Greg2008uk*


Hey,

I have the plus version of the bored (wish I had known about this forum before)!

I have followed the guide for the p5n32, all the same options are available and I am running the 1002 bios! When in bios I select the unlinked option and raise the FSB, I save and restart, however the setting donâ€™t apply and the CPU is still at stock settings! Would be great if any one has any ideas?


Hi, Greg & welcome. The PLUS is actually a totally different chipset, but I'll help you out if you can't find anywhere else to post. Give us all your voltages, your FSB and RAM speeds, and your RAM latencies. Also, can you link us to the exact RAM you have, please? Or provide a precise model number... thanks!

Johnny, not sure if I ROFL'ed at your avatar yet. If not, ROFL @ your avatar! Evil, evil monkey!!!


----------



## sylvaing

I would like to thank all of you!.

This thread as been very helpful for me as it was my first overclocked system I build up myself.

My hardware :
----------------
Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 3.0ghz
ASUS P5N32-E SLI Nforce 680I SLI LGA775
2x Swiftech MC21 Aluminum Heatsinks (for the chips around the cpu)
Arctic Silver Premium Silver Thermal Adhesive (To replace the bad swiftech adhesive)
2x Evercool VC-RE (for my NB & SB)
Thermalright ULTRA-120 Extreme 6 Heatpipe Cooler
Noctua NF-P12-1300 120MM Ultra Quiet Cooling Fan
Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500 DDR2 2GB 2X1GB DDR2-1066 CL5-5-5-15
Arctic Cooling MX-2 Thermal Compound
GeForce 8800GT 512MB 670MHZ 1.95GHZ
OCZ GameXStream 700W

My result :
-----------------
My computer seems very stable, under CPU 100% load @ 70C
Cpu Overclock @ 4.23ghz (469.9x9.0)
Memory @ 1057.2 Mhz
FSB @ 1879.2Mhz

Voltages
-----------
CPU 1.5313
Memory : 2.2250
FSB : 1.45

You'll find attached 2 files about my computer idle and over 100% CPU load

Could I get more of this system? Is there any other way than prime95 to test my system over long period of stress?

Thank you, once again!


----------



## slytown

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sylvaing* 

My result :
-----------------
My computer seems very stable, under CPU 100% load @ 70C
Cpu Overclock @ 4.23ghz (469.9x9.0)
Memory @ 1057.2 Mhz
FSB @ 1879.2Mhz

Voltages
-----------
CPU 1.5313
Memory : 2.2250
FSB : 1.45


Drop the vcore some. 70C is pushing it. Besides Prime95 most people run an Orthos test or two.


----------



## franz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sylvaing* 
I would like to thank all of you!.

This thread as been very helpful for me as it was my first overclocked system I build up myself.

My hardware :
----------------
Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 3.0ghz
ASUS P5N32-E SLI Nforce 680I SLI LGA775
2x Swiftech MC21 Aluminum Heatsinks (for the chips around the cpu)
Arctic Silver Premium Silver Thermal Adhesive (To replace the bad swiftech adhesive)
2x Evercool VC-RE (for my NB & SB)
Thermalright ULTRA-120 Extreme 6 Heatpipe Cooler
Noctua NF-P12-1300 120MM Ultra Quiet Cooling Fan
Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500 DDR2 2GB 2X1GB DDR2-1066 CL5-5-5-15
Arctic Cooling MX-2 Thermal Compound
GeForce 8800GT 512MB 670MHZ 1.95GHZ
OCZ GameXStream 700W

My result :
-----------------
My computer seems very stable, under CPU 100% load @ 70C
Cpu Overclock @ 4.23ghz (469.9x9.0)
Memory @ 1057.2 Mhz
FSB @ 1879.2Mhz

Voltages
-----------
CPU 1.5313
Memory : 2.2250
FSB : 1.45

You'll find attached 2 files about my computer idle and over 100% CPU load

Could I get more of this system? Is there any other way than prime95 to test my system over long period of stress?

Thank you, once again!









Nice system.

First and most important you are going to run that E8400 into the ground very quickly running at 1.53v vCore. The new 45nm process cannot handle those voltages or temps. Intel specs are listed below. *Keep that vCore below 1.36 or you will be using it as a paper weight.*

*E8400 Specs*

Like slytown mentioned Orthos is a good substitute for stability testing, but it is basically the same program. For a quick test you could use SuperPi 32M test, 3dMark06(sounds funny, but if system is not stable it will crash) or OCCT blend(CPU&RAM) test.

SuperPi
OCCT


----------



## slytown

franz said:


> Nice system.
> 
> First and most important you are going to run that E8400 into the ground very quickly running at 1.53v vCore. The new 45nm process cannot handle those voltages or temps. Intel specs are listed below. *Keep that vCore below 1.36 or you will be using it as a paper weight.*
> 
> /
> 
> 
> 
> 1.5v is max. For a 24/7 OC 1.45v is a good safe number.
Click to expand...


----------



## sylvaing

slytown said:


> franz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice system.
> 
> First and most important you are going to run that E8400 into the ground very quickly running at 1.53v vCore. The new 45nm process cannot handle those voltages or temps. Intel specs are listed below. *Keep that vCore below 1.36 or you will be using it as a paper weight.*
> 
> /
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 1.5v is max. For a 24/7 OC 1.45v is a good safe number.
> Thank you for this information.
> I'll try to keep it under 1.45v as this computer will be running up 24/7.
Click to expand...


----------



## franz

Quote:



1.5v is max. For a 24/7 OC 1.45v is a good safe number.


Here are a couple of related threads for the E8400 etc. The first is the official discussion thread with charts of OC's from members. Only a few are pushing past 1.36 on air. Also they are achieving good OC on little voltage (not anywhere near 1.5v)

E8400 thread

Another thread started by a member whose E8400 died after running it around 1.45v.

E8400 dies

I just want to give you some food for thought. You can do anything you want to your equipment, but I just wanted to warn you.


----------



## Milisav

@sylvaigh
nice OC, but to high vcore
what bios did u flash?

@everybody
i noticed that my GEIL runs with errors in memtest when i OC cpu and MB even if it stays around 800MHz (default). when i set all to default settings there's no errors. should i try with another memory? some people told me that asus and geil are not loving each other so much. is that true?


----------



## sylvaing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *franz*


Here are a couple of related threads for the E8400 etc. The first is the official discussion thread with charts of OC's from members. Only a few are pushing past 1.36 on air. Also they are achieving good OC on little voltage (not anywhere near 1.5v)

E8400 thread

Another thread started by a member whose E8400 died after running it around 1.45v.

E8400 dies

I just want to give you some food for thought. You can do anything you want to your equipment, but I just wanted to warn you.


Well those links freak me out a little bit.

For the moment, I'll run mine at 3.6ghz @1.35v


----------



## sylvaing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Milisav*


@sylvaigh
nice OC, but to high vcore
what bios did u flash?

@everybody
i noticed that my GEIL runs with errors in memtest when i OC cpu and MB even if it stays around 800MHz (default). when i set all to default settings there's no errors. should i try with another memory? some people told me that asus and geil are not loving each other so much. is that true?


Well actually, i'm not even sure what is really my vcore, My bios, cpu-z and ntune doesnt give the same result.

My bios is the latest 1403, 2008/02/15 update


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## Milisav

@sylvaing
how many volts did u set in the bios?
in my case if i set 1.40v, on idle everest says 1.38, but on load it's 1.36-1.37v.


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## johnny9794

newest beta of everest reads temps vcore ect correctly.


----------



## sylvaing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Milisav* 
@sylvaing
how many volts did u set in the bios?
in my case if i set 1.40v, on idle everest says 1.38, but on load it's 1.36-1.37v.

Well, in my bios last time i've set it to 1.53v (not recommended) but now i'm at auto as i'm trying to find a good program which will be able to give my the good vcore reading.

*Milisav* : Could you post me your FBS, memory speed, and the information in your "Over voltage bios screen) It could probably help me as well as try to get the same reading that you do with everest.

Thank you.


----------



## kem-

Anyone have a guide on how to remove the copper heatsink for i can put on some NB/SB and some MC21's


----------



## slytown

Check out my review of the Jing Ting and my guide to cutting the heatpipe on this board in my sig.


----------



## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kem-*


Anyone have a guide on how to remove the copper heatsink for i can put on some NB/SB and some MC21's


Turn the board over and pinch the black pins with needlenose pliers. Then just pull on the tabs on the other side of the board.


----------



## Milisav

@sylvaing

i dont understand why you set so high vcore, and than think that you have problem with vcore readings. every MB have vdroop and vdrop. first one describes when you set, like, 1.36v in bios, and real idle vcore is 1.34v. Vdrop is voltage dropping from real idle voltage, 1.34v, to 1.32v. Don't go above 1.40v in bios. that'll give you safe and max oc voltage for 24/7.
my setings in bios for 425FSB, 3.825GHz, FSB/mem sync:
vcore 1.36v
1.2 HT 1.25v
NB 1.35
mem 2.075v
SB 1.50v

exept vcore, every voltage is reading a lil' bit higher than value in bios.


----------



## sylvaing

@Milisav (and anyone who could help me)

I've tried your settings and my computer wont bootup (no beeps, nothing)

To be able to get the cpu at those ghz (3.8Ghz and up), The only way I've found to boot up is to increase the VCore and the NB voltage at 1.45 both. And this seems to be not recommended.

I've included some bios screenshot, maybe you'll find my problem.

Edit : My memory is _Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500 DDR2 2GB 2X1GB DDR2-1066 CL5-5-5-15_

Thank you in advance to all of you.

Best regards, Sylvain.


----------



## johnny9794

My zalman 9700 arrived today, Installed with ease, alot easier than how I anticipated.
I used an air can as a comparison to the huge size of the zalman for anyone that does not have the zalman or that does not know the reality size of it.
Here are some photo's, if they are to big or takes up to much space just let me know and i'll break it down to just links.


----------



## slytown

The copper to copper looks really good.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


The copper to copper looks really good.


yea I like how it looks very much as well.

edit: off to new overclocks.


----------



## DaLiu

Hi! Im new here, i have a Asus P5N32-E SLi and im thinking to buy a new E8400 but i dont know if there are some problem with the new bios for this cpu, can u give me some advices? Thank you!


----------



## mica3speedy

update the bios to 1403, and you will be able to run that e8400 just fine

 






.


----------



## mica3speedy

update the bios to 1403, and you will be able to run that e8400 just fine







.


----------



## sirokket16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sylvaing* 
@Milisav (and anyone who could help me)

I've tried your settings and my computer wont bootup (no beeps, nothing)

To be able to get the cpu at those ghz (3.8Ghz and up), The only way I've found to boot up is to increase the VCore and the NB voltage at 1.45 both. And this seems to be not recommended.

I've included some bios screenshot, maybe you'll find my problem.

Edit : My memory is _Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500 DDR2 2GB 2X1GB DDR2-1066 CL5-5-5-15_

Thank you in advance to all of you.

Best regards, Sylvain.

Have you tried setting your Vtt to 1.55 volts?? This has been known to help with achieving higher overclocks.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DaLiu*


Hi! Im new here, i have a Asus P5N32-E SLi and im thinking to buy a new E8400 but i dont know if there are some problem with the new bios for this cpu, can u give me some advices? Thank you!


Use your e6600 to update to 1403 then install the e8400.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


Check out my review of the Jing Ting and my guide to cutting the heatpipe on this board in my sig.




















Is that jingting touching the vid car?

Looks like it was a pain to install, what you do install the jingting first then installed the tuniq?


----------



## slytown

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny9794* 
Is that jingting touching the vid car?

Looks like it was a pain to install, what you do install the jingting first then installed the tuniq?

No its not touching the card and yes it was a pain, but that's just because of the tuniq.

I had to set the tuniq on the CPU and adjust to where the Jing Ting would fit. I installed the Jing Ting first. So many go with the Spirit II. I wanted to try this thing. It would have been the same trouble or more with any other active NB cooler.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slytown* 
No its not touching the card and yes it was a pain, but that's just because of the tuniq.

I had to set the tuniq on the CPU and adjust to where the Jing Ting would fit. I installed the Jing Ting first. So many go with the Spirit II. I wanted to try this thing. It would have been the same trouble or more with any other active NB cooler.

lol, keep on looking at it, looks so tight tight fitting, good job, How you like the both?


----------



## Milisav

@sylvaing

set cpu vtt manualy @ 1.4v or higher, also try to link mem and fbs, or just set it @ 800 (unlinked) to eliminate memory. other voltage set as i said.


----------



## sylvaing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Milisav* 
@sylvaing

set cpu vtt manualy @ 1.4v or higher, also try to link mem and fbs, or just set it @ 800 (unlinked) to eliminate memory. other voltage set as i said.

@Milisav & Sirokket16

Yes I've tried to put CPU vtt to 1.4/1.45/1.5/1.55, and playing with the memory (link or 800/unlinked)

No success so far


----------



## rmanuelb

Hi.

Seems that some of you have been having problems with Q6600 G0 and this Mobo. Lucky or not here it is.



Please see my CPU-Z Validation.

And by the way ... thank you to all that post here, especially to Robilar.

Regards


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rmanuelb*


Hi.

Seems that some of you have been having problems with Q6600 G0 and this Mobo. Lucky or not here it is.



Please see my CPU-Z Validation.

And by the way ... thank you to all that post here, especially to Robilar.

Regards


8 gigs wow, I bet vista runs beautiful.


----------



## SleazyC

Not really overclocking related, but this seems to be one of the most active P5N32-E threads on the internet so I thought I would post my problem here.

I just recieved my P5N32-E Sli Plus back from Asus for a BIOS issue that required an RMA and upon installing my RAM (OCZ DDR2800) I was getting errors in Prime 95. I bought another 2GB and just sent out my old sticks. Haven't run Prime95 yet but my MCP temps are ridiculously high.










After some searching around the net I also found a similar case where someone would get consistent errors with memtest and their SB temps were also off the charts. Anyone got any advice or ideas why the temperature is off the charts? My specs are below:

CASE: Antec P180B revision 1.1 (3x120mm fans -- 1 front blowing air in, two in back blowing air out)
CPU: Intel E6850 @ stock
Video card: EVGA 8800GTX
Sound card: Creative X-fi Platinum
HDD: 150GB Raptor X
PSU: Corsair 620W

Perhaps its that my 8800GTX is pretty much sitting right over the SB but the one thing that is making me doubt that the high temps is causing the memory errors is that I was able to run perfectly stable with 1 stick of RAM (also ran Orthos for about 12 hours on it without an error). I am going to run Orthos overnight tonight but I figured I would ask some people with way more knowledge on the thermal design and issues of the P5N32-E.

On another semi-related note... could the high SB temps be the cause of a huge temperature disparity when I have my side panel off? With my side panel on I get idle temps of 39C/40C but with it off it drops several degrees to between 30C/31C and 33C/34C.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SleazyC*


Not really overclocking related, but this seems to be one of the most active P5N32-E threads on the internet so I thought I would post my problem here.

I just recieved my P5N32-E Sli Plus back from Asus for a BIOS issue that required an RMA and upon installing my RAM (OCZ DDR2800) I was getting errors in Prime 95. I bought another 2GB and just sent out my old sticks. Haven't run Prime95 yet but my MCP temps are ridiculously high.










After some searching around the net I also found a similar case where someone would get consistent errors with memtest and their SB temps were also off the charts. Anyone got any advice or ideas why the temperature is off the charts? My specs are below:

CASE: Antec P180B revision 1.1 (3x120mm fans -- 1 front blowing air in, two in back blowing air out)
CPU: Intel E6850 @ stock
Video card: EVGA 8800GTX
Sound card: Creative X-fi Platinum
HDD: 150GB Raptor X
PSU: Corsair 620W

Perhaps its that my 8800GTX is pretty much sitting right over the SB but the one thing that is making me doubt that the high temps is causing the memory errors is that I was able to run perfectly stable with 1 stick of RAM (also ran Orthos for about 12 hours on it without an error). I am going to run Orthos overnight tonight but I figured I would ask some people with way more knowledge on the thermal design and issues of the P5N32-E.

On another semi-related note... could the high SB temps be the cause of a huge temperature disparity when I have my side panel off? With my side panel on I get idle temps of 39C/40C but with it off it drops several degrees to between 30C/31C and 33C/34C.


check to make sure the sb voltage is at default.
check to make sure the soughbridge heat pipe heatsink is seated correctly.
I noticed that my sb bridge temp was at 47 to 52 with my stock intel heatsink cuz it blew all the hot air right back onto the board and vrm's heatfins that sit at the top of the board.

Then I installed my zalman and seen that my sb temps went down by 10c, until I raised the voltage on it for overclocking stability then its back up to 47 but thats with higher voltage that i had to apply for oc stability.

In your user control panel for the forums, enter your system specs into it plz.


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny9794* 
check to make sure the sb voltage is at default.
check to make sure the soughbridge heat pipe heatsink is seated correctly.
I noticed that my sb bridge temp was at 47 to 52 with my stock intel heatsink cuz it blew all the hot air right back onto the board and vrm's heatfins that sit at the top of the board.

Then I installed my zalman and seen that my sb temps went down by 10c, until I raised the voltage on it for overclocking stability then its back up to 47 but thats with higher voltage that i had to apply for oc stability.

In your user control panel for the forums, enter your system specs into it plz.

I am using stock heatsink and am looking to pick up a aftermarket soon so that might be it. As far as the voltages go, I haven't really touched anything so they look to be at default:










I just got done playing about 2 hours of Team Fortress 2 and the computer is stable so I do believe that stick of RAM is dead but the MCP went up to 99C at max during that play time. I'll check out if the SB heatsink is seated on correctly and I will leave Orthos running overnight to see if I get any more errors. Thanks for the help.


----------



## viruzke

I've set my fsb to 1333 and multiplier to 8x.
I reboot and what do I get?
PC freezes before POST.

What does it show me:

ASUS P5N32-E SLI ACPI BIOS Revision 1205
Main Processor : Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU @ 2,66Ghz

That's it...
I can't press delete to enter bios and reboot doesn't help.
Any idea how I can get out of this screen en back to basics ?


----------



## rmanuelb

Hi.

Specs ??? RAM setttings,.... etc etc etc...

And try it with a lower Multiplier just to see how it goes please ...

Regards


----------



## slytown

Realize the P5N32-E Sli Plus is a 650i and not a 680i board.

Your side panel or your card would not significantly affect your SB. A high SB temp would not affect your memory. Try your RAM in another mobo. If they work, then you have a bad board.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *viruzke*


I've set my fsb to 1333 and multiplier to 8x.
I reboot and what do I get?
PC freezes before POST.

What does it show me:

ASUS P5N32-E SLI ACPI BIOS Revision 1205
Main Processor : Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU @ 2,66Ghz

That's it...
I can't press delete to enter bios and reboot doesn't help.
Any idea how I can get out of this screen en back to basics ?


Plz enter your system specs into the forum control panl.


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slytown* 
Realize the P5N32-E Sli Plus is a 650i and not a 680i board.

Your side panel or your card would not significantly affect your SB. A high SB temp would not affect your memory. Try your RAM in another mobo. If they work, then you have a bad board.

Ok... heres an update. After I played TF2 for 4 hours today I go to the Asus forums to browse and see if anyone is having high temperatures as well and I get a BSOD. I still have auto-restart on so I didn't get a chance to catch the message. I go to run Orthos' Large FFT test and I immediately get a rounding error not a couple seconds after I start it. This is brand new RAM that just came in earlier this week so unless it was DOA it should be working fine. Anyone have any ideas?

Going to try to run one stick again and see if Orthos gives me a rounding error.

EDIT - Ok, after a very quick run of Orthos I got no errors, need to use the computer to do some work so I will run it overnight with 1 stick in and see what happens. Another weird observation. I set my computer to turn off, went to the bathroom and came back and it was off. Went about turning it on its side to pull off the RAM and I touched the SB. It was cool, no heat at all. I touched my 8800GTX to see if that was still warm (idles at about 62C) and it was still warm. Now I'm wondering if its the sensor or something else. Either way given that this brand new RAM still throws Orthos errors I am pretty stumped as to what the problem could be.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SleazyC*


Ok... heres an update. After I played TF2 for 4 hours today I go to the Asus forums to browse and see if anyone is having high temperatures as well and I get a BSOD. I still have auto-restart on so I didn't get a chance to catch the message. I go to run Orthos' Large FFT test and I immediately get a rounding error not a couple seconds after I start it. This is brand new RAM that just came in earlier this week so unless it was DOA it should be working fine. Anyone have any ideas?

Going to try to run one stick again and see if Orthos gives me a rounding error.

EDIT - Ok, after a very quick run of Orthos I got no errors, need to use the computer to do some work so I will run it overnight with 1 stick in and see what happens. Another weird observation. I set my computer to turn off, went to the bathroom and came back and it was off. Went about turning it on its side to pull off the RAM and I touched the SB. It was cool, no heat at all. I touched my 8800GTX to see if that was still warm (idles at about 62C) and it was still warm. Now I'm wondering if its the sensor or something else. Either way given that this brand new RAM still throws Orthos errors I am pretty stumped as to what the problem could be.


Are your mem volts set at the brand names defaults?
I got blue screens when I first ffirst time for my ram, then rebooted into bios and loaded my memory voltages to there defaults for mine is 2.2, and everythong was ok from there


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny9794*


Are your mem volts set at the brand names defaults?
I got blue screens when I first ffirst time for my ram, then rebooted into bios and loaded my memory voltages to there defaults for mine is 2.2, and everythong was ok from there


Yea, my RAM is rated at 2.0V and the motherboard defaulted to 5-5-5-15 with 1.8V I believe but I changed that after I got it up and running. Right now it is at the rated 4-4-4-15 @ 2.0V


----------



## mica3speedy

Benny99 brought up something interesting in this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...time-boot.html

Is anybody else running vista with this board and notice takes some time to load vista?


----------



## mica3speedy

alright, installed my new e8400. It's still stock settings, with messed up temps. Core temp reports temps at 39 idle, 42c orthos load. Everest reports the sames temps for my cores, but 47 idle, 57 load for the actual cpu. Real temp 1.0 lists my core temps at 29c idle, 32c load. Should I be concerned? Any ideas and or suggestions?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

No. E8400 is messed up at stock voltages. Don't worry. RealTemp is trying to get there, but it's not the holy grail of temp monitors. As long as vCore looks good, you're aces.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SleazyC*


Yea, my RAM is rated at 2.0V and the motherboard defaulted to 5-5-5-15 with 1.8V I believe but I changed that after I got it up and running. Right now it is at the rated 4-4-4-15 @ 2.0V


one thing that i believe is that if you tighten up your ram to 4-4-4-8 or 12 with 1t is much better than 4-4-4-15

see what other's say.


----------



## SleazyC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny9794*


one thing that i believe is that if you tighten up your ram to 4-4-4-8 or 12 with 1t is much better than 4-4-4-15

see what other's say.


I'm not sure if my RAM would be stable at those timings, but when i was going through the RMA process with my old sticks of RAM with OCZ they told me to bump the voltage up to 2.1 and 2.2V to see if it would do anything and it actually made Orthos report an error quicker than when I had it just on 2.0V. I did want to try to get my RAM running at 1t but I guess that will have to wait until after I get everything error-free.


----------



## mica3speedy

Well so far so good at 3.4 (400x8.5) with 1.25v vcore. Here are my current settings:

vcore: 1.25v
nb: 1.4
sb: 1.5
1.2ht: 1.3
vtt: 1.55

How much fsb do you think I could increase with 1.45v nb max? I'm getting some temp monitors, but until then I'm not going over 1.45v nb so I don't kill my board.


----------



## Milisav

@mica3speedy

set vcore to 1.34-1.36v
dont need so much v on NB, lower it to 1.35, max 1.40v
1.2ht max 1.25v, 1.30v is less stable
and why 8.5 multi?.
set it 425 or higher x9 and enjoy


----------



## mica3speedy

well it was 8.5x400 to match my ram which is currently at 400x2, so it's 1:1.


----------



## DaLiu

Any chance to use a Q9450 on ASUS P5N32-E SLI? I think not, right?


----------



## vinodfrndz

my cpu is E6850 ll it doo 4 ghz!!!


----------



## whe3ls

ok most do but that doesnt really mean anything


----------



## vinodfrndz

and the latest bios 1403 i think !!

is it good???


----------



## vinodfrndz

i mean good for overclockin?


----------



## whe3ls

yep it is do you have a screen shot of cpu z for us


----------



## vinodfrndz

i have a hyper48 cpu cooler 
RAM corsair xms2 800mhz 5-5-5-18 @ 1.9v!!

not in load my cpu temperature is 48-49c range!!

durin OC can i increase the fsb of RAM in unlinked mode or just tighting up the timming is better??


----------



## AMD+nVidia

I just hit 3.4GHz with my Q6600 on this board! 1403 BIOS = Good!

Now I'm waiting for a better cooler!


----------



## vinodfrndz

here is the cpu z

please help me OC guys


----------



## franz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinodfrndz*


and the latest bios 1403 i think !!

is it good???











Its okay, but the 1203 BIOS still seems to be the best. You only need the 1403 BIOS if you have the newer 45nm chips. Like the E8400.

The 1403 BIOS seems to cause problems with the network controllers on this board. It is also very hard to downgrade from that BIOS, but there are posts on how to do it.

Please enter your system specs here. Click add system and enter any info you can.


----------



## whe3ls

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinodfrndz*


i have a hyper48 cpu cooler 
RAM corsair xms2 800mhz 5-5-5-18 @ 1.9v!!

not in load my cpu temperature is 48-49c range!!

durin OC can i increase the fsb of RAM in unlinked mode or just tighting up the timming is better??


you prolly could run your at 4-4-4-10 with 2.0-2.1v unlinked at 800mhz not really sure that you ram could run at 900mhz with 5-5-5-15 timings


----------



## vinodfrndz

uploaded my system specs !!

so suggest me good overclocks so that i can get max out of my spec!


----------



## vinodfrndz

as of robilars guide i did this

Extreme Tweaker Screen:
Nvidia GPU Ex: Disable it (Known to cause issues)
Linkboost: Disable it (Known to cause issues) (No longer available in bios 1002)
Spread Spectrum Control: Disable all of them

Execute Disable Bit: Disable it

Virtualization Technology: Disable it

Enhanced Intel Speedstep: Disable it

Enhanced C1 (C1E): Disable it

Legacy USB Support: Disable it

HPET: Disable it

I would recommend a SATA burner if you are switching as then you can disable all of the IDE channels (Speeds up boot up times signifigantly)

and yes it disabled the ide and when i saved changes and boot the system again it said boot from a device cd rom then floppy like wise!!

i dont hav a ide burner only no sata burner !

so which option in these , i have to enable to stop this from happening?


----------



## franz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vinodfrndz* 
...
I would recommend a SATA burner if you are switching as then you can disable all of the IDE channels (Speeds up boot up times signifigantly)

and yes it disabled the ide and when i saved changes and boot the system again it said boot from a device cd rom then floppy like wise!!

i dont hav a ide burner only no sata burner !

so which option in these , i have to enable to stop this from happening?

Okay if you have any drive (Hard Drive, CD, DVD, that is connected to a ribbon (IDE) then you cant disable the IDE Controller. If all of your drives are connected by a SATA cable you can disable this function.


----------



## vinodfrndz

hmmmm....

so which option from the above do i hav to enable?


----------



## franz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinodfrndz*


hmmmm....

so which option from the above do i hav to enable?


To enable or disable your IDE channels, go to the Advanced menu in BIOS and enter IDE function setup. If you need the IDE channels set everything to enabled. If not then set Onchip IDE channel0 to disabled.


----------



## vinodfrndz

dude u specifid another option !!!

what i meant was which option of these,

:
Nvidia GPU Ex: Disable
Linkboost: Disable 
Spread Spectrum Control: Disable all

Execute Disable Bit: Disable

Virtualization Technology: Disable

Enhanced Intel Speedstep: Disable

Enhanced C1 (C1E): Disable

Legacy USB Support: Disable

HPET: Disable

do i hav to enable???


----------



## franz

well all of those options are safe to have disabled. so are you still having trouble booting into windows?


----------



## vinodfrndz

yessss!!!!!!

if i disable all of the options specified above, it asks to boot from cd rom or floppy likewise !!

even the thread creator said that disabling these options ll disable ide but he didnt specify which one in particular!!!


----------



## franz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinodfrndz*


yessss!!!!!!

if i disable all of the options specified above, it asks to boot from cd rom or floppy likewise !!

even the thread creator said that disabling these options ll disable ide but he didnt specify which one in particular!!!










Okay the setting he said to disable have no affect on your IDE. your IDE options are in another menu like I mentioned earlier. 
Quote:



To enable or disable your IDE channels, go to the* Advanced menu in BIOS *and *enter IDE function setup*. If you need the IDE channels set everything to enabled. If not then set Onchip IDE channel0 to disabled.


also make sure your boot priority is set properly and that your hard drive is the first item to boot from.


----------



## mllrkllr88

Thanks dude.

Your guide has really helped me go the extra step. I was stable at 3.4(1.35v) before I read the guide. After following your excellent tips I am now stable at 3.7(1.4v). I even reached 4.0(1.5v) for a super pi run. 
I have owned the P5N32-E-SLI since its launch and it has been my best and longest lasting purchase. Awesome board, awesome guide.

E6600, P5N32, swiftech 2x120 35c (CPU + NB), Corsair CAS4)


----------



## viruzke

Okay, here is my problem.
If you check my system you'll see everything I have in my pc.
I'm trying to overclock my PC but it always jams b4 the post-bios.

Default FSB : 1066x9 = 2,4 Ghz (stockspeed)
I set the FSB to 1333x9 = 3,0 Ghz
Everyting voltage is set to auto.
And my memory is unlinked @ 800

When i reboot my pc, it just keeps on jamming b4 the post-bios.

Anyone an idea?


----------



## trueg50

You have to manually adjust your NB / SB / 1.2 HT voltages.

Try:

1.2 HT : 1.35
NB: 1.4
SB : 1.5

just play around, and don't forget, even +1 notch too high on the voltage can make it unstable.


----------



## dx_2k5

Hi guys...
I have a p5n32-e plus (650i) and i am planing to get a Q6600, is it possible to oc the Q6600 to 3.2 (8x400) with this board without any v-mod ??????


----------



## viruzke

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trueg50*


You have to manually adjust your NB / SB / 1.2 HT voltages.

Try:

1.2 HT : 1.35
NB: 1.4
SB : 1.5

just play around, and don't forget, even +1 notch too high on the voltage can make it unstable.


I'll give that one a try 2night or smt.
@ work atm








Thx for the response


----------



## Bar_Rat

What is the best BIOS version for this board?

ASUS P5N32-E SLI 680I


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vinodfrndz* 
and the latest bios 1403 i think !!

is it good???











Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bar_Rat* 
What is the best BIOS version for this board?

ASUS P5N32-E SLI 680I

if you don't have 45nm Intel cpu then bios 1203 will be best for overclock .


----------



## Bar_Rat

i hear that the 1203 has a few bugs in it...

is it stable?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Persian's right. The best BIOS is 1203 unless you have a 45nm. It's rock solid.

The only exception is if you have Razer I/O devices. In that case, you should try 1205. But that's only if you have Razer devices. 1205 is a little less stable than 1203.


----------



## Bar_Rat

ok.thanks

If i update my BIOS can i go back to an older version?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Yes.


----------



## Bar_Rat

Do I do it the same way that I would update it?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Yes.


----------



## Bar_Rat

Thanks...Love a simple, straightforward answer


----------



## supeg93

Hey guys have some iceburgs comming to cool the north and south bridge. I did not buy anything for the mosfets, can i cut the heat pipe that is on there removing the north/south bridge portion and leave the rest on there?


----------



## SLIMaxPower

Quote:


Originally Posted by *supeg93* 
Hey guys have some iceburgs comming to cool the north and south bridge. I did not buy anything for the mosfets, can i cut the heat pipe that is on there removing the north/south bridge portion and leave the rest on there?

I did that with the heatpipe from the southbridge. The swiftec heatsinks I bought for the mosfets fell off (too lazy to make a mixture).
I also have the cheap asus stackcooler fan that sits on top.

Seems to work fine for me.


----------



## mica3speedy

I can't wait until Asus releases a new bios







. The 1403 sucks, can't do a restart without having to do a hard shutdown. And trying to try new overclock settings can be a pita when it doesn't save them... Sorry about that rant; finally got to 3.8ghz at 1.25v vcore. I want to go further but the bios is holding me back I think. Wouldn't post at 1690 (422x4), tried it again and booted fine. Got some more testing to do, but will hopefully get to 4ghz with some low vcore.


----------



## Kasaris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
I can't wait until Asus releases a new bios







. The 1403 sucks, can't do a restart without having to do a hard shutdown. And trying to try new overclock settings can be a pita when it doesn't save them... Sorry about that rant; finally got to 3.8ghz at 1.25v vcore. I want to go further but the bios is holding me back I think. Wouldn't post at 1690 (422x4), tried it again and booted fine. Got some more testing to do, but will hopefully get to 4ghz with some low vcore.

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...Language=en-us

This thread with a link to the 1404 Bios was posted out on the Asus forums a week ago and from the looks of it is much better and stable than the 1403 bios and is actually allowing for some decent overclocks.

I have it loaded and other than having to clear the CMOS after flashing it has been working great so far.


----------



## mica3speedy

I'm going to wait until Asus puts it on their official download site or ftp site


----------



## vinodfrndz

hey all !!

do u disable the speed spectrum when u overclock ????

and all the other things the thread starter mentions???

i oc ma cpu to 400fsb and memory to 1 ghz without steppin up the voltages it booted up to windows but it freezed!!!

ll steppin up voltages remedy these freezez?









and can nyone with a stable overclock post their vcore, nbcore ,cpu htt
to help me!


----------



## labeldave

Good day to all. This is my first post. I'm having trouble getting my p5n32-e over 400mhz (1600mhz). I can get the e8400 extemely stable @ 3.6,but nothing over that. Am I missing something? I've set all my voltages to the e8400 specs and even brought my ram down to 266 with very loos timimngs, but nothing seems to work. My biggest hang seems to happen when my hard drive starts spinning in the xp startup screen, thats when it freezes the most. I'm wondering if my hard drive would cause trouble. Thanks guys.


----------



## vinodfrndz

allmost same problem as mine!

so can nybody help!

would steppin up the vcoer help?


----------



## labeldave

I've found that the e8400 seems to like lower voltages better. Just runs evertything smoother. I think my next step is trying the 1404 BIOS.


----------



## Benny99

All i can say is

P35-DS3L > Asus P5N32-E SLI

I have both motherboards and it took alot of time and effort to get the same overclock on my E6750 to 3.7ghz lots of tweaking.

P35 chip set is just easier in general in overclocking.

Also this board hates 4gigs of ram.

Even 2x2gb sticks are a problem.

I wouldnt want to try 4x1gb kit thats like suicidal.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

4x1 is tricky on this board, I'll give you that. But 2x2 works perfectly. I'm using G.Skill PC2-8000 2x2s on it right now with great results. I did a lot of benchmarks at both 4x1 and 2x2, and 4x1 turned out to be faster in many cases! It just needs a little extra tweaking and massaging.

Also, I can get 3.82 no problem on my E6750, but I keep it at 3.6 for 24/7 because it's in a case with bad circulation.

Maybe you just got a bad board, because I still think the P5N32-E is the best C2D overclocker ever!


----------



## Benny99

Are u kidding me ?

lol i can agree it does C2D fine.

However if i can get a P35-DS3L which costs 110 dollars in aus compared to a 300 dollar motherboard to the same clocks stable and stable with 4gigs of ram look at my sig rig.

Its a decent motherboard but not great. And far from the best C2D overclocker.


----------



## vinodfrndz

so whats the good cpu vcore !

my cpu E6850


----------



## Benny99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinodfrndz*


so whats the good cpu vcore !

my cpu E6850


No comment right there.

seriously all i have to say is ...


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinodfrndz*


so whats the good cpu vcore !

my cpu E6850


Litlratt got an E6850 past 4GHz on this board. He posted his BIOS settings, bit it was a while ago. You might want to do a search in this thread for his posts or just PM him.


----------



## Litlratt

My 6850 was a volt whore.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=222404


----------



## vinodfrndz

please pm me ur bios settings or post it here dude please!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinodfrndz*


please pm me ur bios settings or post it here dude please!


pm sent
Common voltages for overclocking this board
Some will, some won't.


----------



## vinodfrndz

thanx dude 
please the temp as well 
post it here!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinodfrndz*


thanx dude 
please the temp as well 
post it here!


I can't remember, but it was within spec.
That overclock was not Prime stable, but it was Windows and game.
I don't play Prime or Orthos


----------



## Benny99

Yea the E6850 has a 9 multi.

However litlrat knows his stuff sorta


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benny99*


Yea the E6850 has a 9 multi.

However litlrat knows his stuff sorta










I'm almost honored


----------



## Benny99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


I'm almost honored










LAWL!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
I'm almost honored









Wow, TWO GX2s??? That's amazing! Where can we see pictures/benches of that wickedness?


----------



## vinodfrndz

thanx to ya'll i was able to overclock ma cpu to 3.6!









not stable thou it hit 70c after just runnin 1 min of occt!
****









nyways lilratt lets see the wickedness!!!!!!


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Wow, TWO GX2s??? That's amazing! Where can we see pictures/benches of that wickedness?

EVGA should have received my 780i today. I'm guessing I should have the 790i in a week.
The GX2s haven't been exceptional in the Marks in Vista. Maybe later driver releases will improve the scores.
They have done well in the games that I played in Vista. Crysis and COD4 both showed an increase in performance to my 3 GTXs.
I'll post a link when results are available.


----------



## Benny99

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
EVGA should have received my 780i today. I'm guessing I should have the 790i in a week.
The GX2s haven't been exceptional in the Marks in Vista. Maybe later driver releases will improve the scores.
They have done well in the games that I played in Vista. Crysis and COD4 both showed an increase in performance to my 3 GTXs.
I'll post a link when results are available.

Ure nuts


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Benny99* 
Ure nuts









If you're looking for an argument........you've come to the wrong place


----------



## Benny99

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
If you're looking for an argument........you've come to the wrong place









hahahahahah


----------



## vinodfrndz

lets see the pics of the monster!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


EVGA should have received my 780i today. I'm guessing I should have the 790i in a week.
The GX2s haven't been exceptional in the Marks in Vista. Maybe later driver releases will improve the scores.
They have done well in the games that I played in Vista. Crysis and COD4 both showed an increase in performance to my 3 GTXs.
I'll post a link when results are available.


Thanks, I would sure appreciate that. I've been browsing the 3dm pages looking at people with the GX2, and it looks like you're right on the money: Vista scores are suffering... but it looks like I can expect a pretty good boost when mine arrives: maybe 4000-5000 points.

Needless to say, I'm quite excited. I only hope they eventually come out with some sort of air cooling solution soon!


----------



## Warmech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Thanks, I would sure appreciate that. I've been browsing the 3dm pages looking at people with the GX2, and it looks like you're right on the money: Vista scores are suffering... but it looks like I can expect a pretty good boost when mine arrives: maybe 4000-5000 points.

Needless to say, I'm quite excited. I only hope they eventually come out with some sort of air cooling solution soon!


What is the going rate for the gx2.


----------



## Warmech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Here is the guide, a work in progress so to speak:

Please note that the Asus Striker Extreme Bios is identical to the P5N32-E (other than revision version releases). All of the settings below will apply to either board. The main difference between the two boards (other than bling, a beefier cooling setup, and all solid caps) is that the Striker can clock higher with Quads. My testing has shown that the P5N32-E tops out at around 370 FSB with quads. This is a hardware issue relating to the GTL Voltage controls on the board. EVGA's A1 and T1 revisions corrected this issue which is inherent in the 680i chipsets. The Striker has a more robust GTL Voltage limit (and has had it since it's release, there have been no newer revisions) and consequently can match the EVGA A1 and T1 for FSB clocks with quads (in the 450 FSB range)

*Online Reviews:

http://www.digital-daily.com/motherb...s_p5n32_e_sli/

(They hit 500 FSB easily in their tests)

http://cdr-info.com/Sections/Reviews...rticleId=19557

(They hit 480 FSB)*

http://www.custompc.co.uk/reviews/10...5n32e-sli.html

*(They hit 487 FSB)*

Asus P5N32-E Overclocking Guide

After posting about 300 times with various settings for forummers, it came to mind that an FAQ would help answer basic questions about this board.

I have tested the settings listed below on this board with an Intel C2D E6700 (Retail) and an Intel C2D X6800 (again retail). With two different sets of ram. Corsair C5 8500 2 x 1 GB Twin2X and the OCZ SLI Ready PC2-8500 2 x 1 GB. Both RAM used Micron D9 IC's.

My board is listed as revision 1.1 and I have tested all of the bios revisions. I tested the 1302 beta and it is currently stable and recommended.

*Under the 1103 bios and onwards, they removed Southbridge - Northbridge frequency options from the bios system clocks defined as SPP <-> MCP Ref Clock under Extreme Tweaker/System Clocks. Apparently, the new bios revisions also have fixed vdroop in relation to ntune. In other words, the vcore you set in the bios matches exactly in what ntune reads. Prior, it was off by as much as .04 or higher.*

*1403 Beta Bios just released (see my ftp link below).*

*Regarding the 1203 bios, it was been pulled from both the Asus site and the Asus FTP site. I have read some feedback that it causes issues with Razor mice and keyboards.*

*The 1205 bios and onwards release corrected issues with razor USB devices (apparently it had to do with compatibility with the bios of razor devices and the USB default poll rate of the motherboard).*

A few points about the board before going into overclocking:

*NTune 5.05.18

http://www.nvidia.com/object/ntune_5.05.18.00.html

Works very well with this board and the current bios releases. All voltages are accurate (as are gpu temps). The only sensor that seems off is cpu temp. Use Core Temp for that.*

Later versions of ntune apparently do not provide accurate voltages again.

The Asus board hasnâ€™t been subject to many of the issues that the reference 680i boards (EVGA, BFG, etc) have such as PS2 keyboard issues, sata RAID issues and so on. It has had issues with X-FI sound cards and SLIâ€™d 8800 series GPUâ€™s. This was resolved in bios update 0602 and onwards. Bear in mind as well that it does not apply to any sound card other than the X-FI series. (for example my, Creative Audigy 2 ZS, had no sound issues whatsoever regardless of bios version).

Do not use 0702 or 0802 bios under any circumstances. The original bios 0302 was stable but had vcore lock issues at high FSB and sound issues with X-FI as mentioned above. 0602 resolved the sound issues but still had some limitations regarding VCORE lock. 0702 and 0802 were beta and very buggy. 0902 despite being beta was very stable and also provided full VCORE unlock regardless of FSB.

*Also note that as of bios version 1002 and onwards, they have permanently removed the linkboost feature. Further proof that it never worked properly.*

Do not use the Asus Updater in Windows! It is politely a POS. The best way to bios flash this board is to out the bios on a usb memory stick, go into the bios, run ez-flash and update from there. It has worked every time for me and is the safest method. Also, always restore your bios to default settings, save and reboot before flashing bios. A number of users on the Asus forums had issues with OCâ€™d bios when flashing.

The Northbridge and Southbridge on the 680i boards get very very hot. The passive heatpipe cooling on the the motherboard is fine for stock settings and even mild overclocks. If you want anything resembling stability at high overclocks, you will need aftermarket cooling.

I have personally mounted a pair of *Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II* coolers on my board with excellent results.

Thermalright also makes chipset coolers, the *Thermalright HR-05-SLI Chipset Cooler*. Both provide excellent cooling.

*Edit: Added that works is the Jing Ting Force Chipset Cooler

http://www.bigbruin.com/reviews05/re...ingting&file=1

(Thanks to Alex for testing this).*

*Edit: Added that works: EVERCOOL EC-VC-RE Ball All In One Vga Cooler Kit

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835119080

(Thanks to litlratt for testing this)*

I am also now using two sets of *Swiftech MC-21 Aluminum Anodized Mosfet Heatsinks* on the exposed VRM's. I measured these and they fit precisely.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...wiftech%2bmc21

Important to note is if you mount an aftermarket cooler on your SB, you will limit the length of card you can mount in the center PCI slot (The only one you can use for a sound card if you have SLIâ€™d anything.) With the Thermaltake, mounted as far away from the slot as possible while still allowing space for a pair of 8800GTX, I have exactly 150mm of clearance length. That is not long enough to fit any of the X-FI cards from Creative. An excellent alternative recommended to me is the Bluegears B-Enspirer Sound Card. It has sound comparable or better than the S-FI gamer and is only 146mm long. Its coming soon so Iâ€™ll update with itâ€™s performance.

*The Thermaltake HS-05 SLI XFI does NOT fit on the southbridge with two 8800GTX and a creative X-FI.

(Thanks to Avatar1983)*

*Thanks again to Alex. The Creative X-FI Gamer is 157mm long and will create clearance issues with SB cooling.*

This board likes clean power with very little ripple. I had some issues with a Silverstone Zeus 750W that worked but was unstable. A change to a much more stable Enermax resolved instability issues with the board immediately.

SLI Ready Memory (also known as Enhanced Performance Profiles or EPP). This is a tool all the 680i boards share. In a nutshell, certain sets of ram have an extra chip that contains overclocking profiles based on factory testing of RAM with these boards. What this will allow you to do, is to auto overclock your ram without manually changing settings up to a factory recommended standard. You can squeeze more performance out of the ram by doing the settings manually but for first timers, its a handy tool.
Corsair and OCZ both have a number of kits that are designated SLI Ready or EPP ready. In the bios on the Extreme Tweaker screen, there is a setting for SLI Ready Memory. Simply go to it, select, 0% Overclock, save reboot and you will see the ram overclocked.

1T RAM Timings: What makes the 680i boards different from the intel chipsets is that it is very easy to get 1T timings to run on ram. Iâ€™ve tested as have others. RAM running at 800Mhz with tight timings (4-4-4-8 for example) and at 1T is faster in bandwidth tests than ram running at 5-5-5-15, 1067 MHz and 2T.

This board does not report vcore correctly in PC Probe. Currently the only program close to correct is Everest Ultimate beta 3.80. download the 30 day free trial from Lavasys to get you up and running. You can take readings in the bios but they reflect 70% of load without any signifigant voltage draw from the gpu.

*Important!: Always set ram voltage manually upon first boot. This board undervolts memory from factory settings when left to auto. For example, my ram is rated stock at 2.1 Volts. The auto setting had it running at 1.89. Even though my system ran fine, I had occasional crashes until I changed the volts to 2.1 manually.

Worse, many types of ram will not work correctly with this board if they are undervolted. If the system will not boot on initial build, try one stick in the slot closest to the cpu until it boots and enter the bios. Immediately change the ram voltage to defaults for the memory you are using. Save,shut down, install the rest of your ram and then reboot normally.*

*For those of you that do not think "SLI Ready" and "EPP Profile" RAM have any value, think again!. One thing the 680i boards have shown is that they are finicky on what RAM they like for stable overclocks. Any RAM that has one or both of the above designations demonstrates that this RAM has been tested specifically for compatibility with the 680i chipset boards. Also as long as you get OCZ or Corsair PC2-8500 or better, it will most likely have Micron D9 IC's which as we all know are the best for Overclocking.*

On to the Overclocking.

Here are the things you need to turn off in the bios before beginning:

Extreme Tweaker Screen:
Nvidia GPU Ex: Disable it (Known to cause issues)
Linkboost: Disable it (Known to cause issues) *(No longer available in bios 1002)*
Spread Spectrum Control: Disable all of them

Execute Disable Bit: Disable it

Virtualization Technology: Disable it

Enhanced Intel Speedstep: Disable it

Enhanced C1 (C1E): Disable it

Legacy USB Support: Disable it

HPET: Disable it

I would recommend a SATA burner if you are switching as then you can disable all of the IDE channels (Speeds up boot up times signifigantly)

Extreme Tweaker Main Screen:

*(Image #1)*

The most important items here are noted.

As mentioned above, Disable Nvidia GPU Ex and Linkboost

*(Image #2)*

System Clocks Screen

FSB and Memory Config Screen

*(Image #3)*

You can set FSB and Memory Clocks speeds independently by choosing unlinked. If you choose auto it will set your FSB at 800 MHZ defaut and up it to match your CPU FSB overclocks.

If you choose Linked, then you can set a ratio for your RAM in conjunction with your cpu overclock in synchronized mode.

The ratios:

1:1 This will run memory at the same frequency as the FSB. It is the DDR2 1000 dividier. This is hard to get stable depending on the ram you use.

5:4 This is the DDR2 800 memory divider

3:2 This is the DDR2 667 memory divider

Overclocking Screen

*(Image #4)*

Here is where you can change your CPU multi and disable some useless items.

Tests have shown that the 680i board runs fasters with a higher multi. So a high multi and low FSB is better than a low multi and high FSB. This board with do 500 FSB easily. It really depends on your chip. If you are running an E6300, 7x500 is the way to go. If you are running an E6600 or E6700, then keep the multi and stock and up the FSB until you max out.

I personally disable Execute Disable Bit and Virtualization Technology as from what I have read they do little to nothing on your PC.

Memory Timing Settings

*(Image #5)*

As mentioned above, tight timings at 1T are consistently faster than loose settings at high clock and 2T.

Over Voltage Screen

*(Image #6 next post)*

CPU VTT is the most important setting for stable overclocks. The CPU VTT Voltage sets the CPU termination voltage, allowing for a 1.55V maximum. Using this voltage in combination with the CPU VCore voltage setting can greatly enhance the system stability while overclocked. The system memory reference voltage is split between settings, the controller reference voltage and one option each for the two memory channels. In all cases, the base reference voltage can be set to a maximum of .03V over half of the set memory voltage. *(Taken from HardOCP)*
"In summary, the CPU VTT controls the CPU termination voltage. Based on Kirmie's observations, it reduces the number of false electrical signals by providing a form of "ground" to pull out these false currents. ." *(Credit to Kirmie for the find)* My experience with this board is that the max setting (1.55) provides the best results. I have not had a single crash or temperature variation as a result.

That should cover the basics.

Here is a great VDroop explained article:

http://www.thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=126

*Here is a link to the Asus FTP site for this board:*

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...P5N32-E%20SLI/

I have discoverd when using the AI overclock on the p5n32-e sli pos mobo.
When you reset,or disable the AI overclock option in the bios after using it with your ram linked. The bios does not reset the overclock on your ram or fsb, So if you do not manualy reset your ram or fsb. Then you turn AI overclock back on it will overclock your ram and your fsb from the last place it was set. IF this happens you will probably have to flash your bios.I have tried all the bios versions none seem to fix this problem.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Litlratt got an E6850 past 4GHz on this board. He posted his BIOS settings, bit it was a while ago. You might want to do a search in this thread for his posts or just PM him.


you can achieve 4GHz with E6850 on this board but if you want to stay on it for 24/7 system you should have strong watercooling system otherwise you can't even stay on Orthos for 1 hour or abit more.









*I'm thinking about watercooling my system .anyone know good water Block for North Bridge on this board ? (waterblock which was test with P5n32-E SLI and approved to be compatible with this board ).*


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Just copy Litlratt's system. You can't go wrong following the footsteps of a legend!









Oh, I guess he doesn't have a P5N32-E any more, but I'm pretty sure he had the D.Tek on this board when he did.


----------



## myjunk

I have an Asus P5N32-E SLI motherboard, but I can't seem to overlock it (not using the built in settings, or manually), every time it enters the crash state and I have to reset it.

My specs are:
Asus P5N32-E SLI
Intel Q6600 @ 2.4 GHz (FSB 1066 Mhz)
4 x OCZ2T8002GK @ 800Mhz @ 2.1V (4-4-4-15 1T)
Gefore 8800 GTS 640MB

All my temperatures are stable at 40 degrees under full load, so all I want it to overlock my system a little bit, get a bit more CPU power so I can do my scientific calculations a bit faster. I followed the guide but it doesn't seem to work for me. The moment I put my memory to unlinked (and not auto) and change the FSB from 1066 to anything else it won't boot up anymore.

Update: I found that if I *don't* follow the guide, but just load bios defaults, put my memory at 2.1V (due to default under clocking of memory votlage), and then use AI overlock 10% it works! It put's my CPU at 2.63Ghz. And my my ram at ~867Mhz (it went by rather quickly).

However I understand that upping your memory bus isn't that good, and it's better to up the FSB instead, so any recommendation for manual settings?


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Warmech*


I have discoverd when using the AI overclock on the p5n32-e sli pos mobo.
When you reset,or disable the AI overclock option in the bios after using it with your ram linked. The bios does not reset the overclock on your ram or fsb, So if you do not manualy reset your ram or fsb. Then you turn AI overclock back on it will overclock your ram and your fsb from the last place it was set. IF this happens you will probably have to flash your bios.I have tried all the bios versions none seem to fix this problem.


AI overclock is worthless. Do it manually.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


you can achieve 4GHz with E6850 on this board but if you want to stay on it for 24/7 system you should have strong watercooling system otherwise you can't even stay on Orthos for 1 hour or abit more.









*I'm thinking about watercooling my system .anyone know good water Block for North Bridge on this board ? (waterblock which was test with P5n32-E SLI and approved to be compatible with this board ).*


Swiftech MCW30

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Just copy Litlratt's system. You can't go wrong following the footsteps of a legend!









Oh, I guess he doesn't have a P5N32-E any more, but I'm pretty sure he had the D.Tek on this board when he did.


Fuzion for cpu, MCW30 for NB.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *myjunk*


I have an Asus P5N32-E SLI motherboard, but I can't seem to overlock it (not using the built in settings, or manually), every time it enters the crash state and I have to reset it.

My specs are:
Asus P5N32-E SLI
Intel Q6600 @ 2.4 GHz (FSB 1066 Mhz)
4 x OCZ2T8002GK @ 800Mhz @ 2.1V (4-4-4-15 1T)
Gefore 8800 GTS 640MB

All my temperatures are stable at 40 degrees under full load, so all I want it to overlock my system a little bit, get a bit more CPU power so I can do my scientific calculations a bit faster. I followed the guide but it doesn't seem to work for me. The moment I put my memory to unlinked (and not auto) and change the FSB from 1066 to anything else it won't boot up anymore.

Update: I found that if I *don't* follow the guide, but just load bios defaults, put my memory at 2.1V (due to default under clocking of memory votlage), and then use AI overlock 10% it works! It put's my CPU at 2.63Ghz. And my my ram at ~867Mhz (it went by rather quickly).

However I understand that upping your memory bus isn't that good, and it's better to up the FSB instead, so any recommendation for manual settings?


Post individual voltage settings. FSB, divider, etc.


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


Thanks, I would sure appreciate that. I've been browsing the 3dm pages looking at people with the GX2, and it looks like you're right on the money: Vista scores are suffering... but it looks like I can expect a pretty good boost when mine arrives: maybe 4000-5000 points.

Needless to say, I'm quite excited. I only hope they eventually come out with some sort of air cooling solution soon!


They are air cooled. DD and some others are working on water. But they will be expensive.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Warmech*


What is the going rate for the gx2.


Around $550.00


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


AI overclock is worthless. Do it manually.

Swiftech MCW30

Fuzion for cpu, MCW30 for NB.

Post individual voltage settings. FSB, divider, etc.


thanks for your replay.


----------



## labeldave

Well, I'm back again, updated bios to 1404, seems to work better. But still can't get over 1600mhz. I've tried 1620mhz and 810mhz for ram. And got 3dmark06 to run complete once (17151 score) woohoo. I can't get the right settings to get it stable. Some input on voltages settings and timings would be great. My concern might be my power supply, but 550watts should be enough. Anything would be great, i'm sinking fast. LOL


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Last night, I moved my 8800GTX over to my wife's computer (P5N32-E, E6750, G.Skill 2x2 PC2-8000) and ran some 3DMark. Interesting thing kept happening: I can't pass 3dm at higher than 3.4GHz with RAM at 1020. I keep getting the nvlddmkm TDR error, which I know can be related to RAM. I'll play around with it more tonight, but it seems weird: maybe I knocked a VRM heatsink of the GTX or something.

vCore: 1.425
NB: 1.45
SB: 1.4
1.2: 1.3
VTT: 1.55

3.4GHz, 8x425, [email protected] 5-5-5-15-2 tRFC:24


----------



## labeldave

I can't run anything higher than 920mhz on my ram at 3.6ghz on my e8400.

I finally got it to go into windows at 4.05, but is freezes immediately.


----------



## kartik3vv

Hi guys , can anyone here actually explain few questions of mine

i'm really worried about the temps , and i dunno how ppl manage to hit 1800-2000 FSB , and Is P5N32-E SLI really bad at OC

i can never go beyond 3.5 Ghz , either bios freezes during setup , or BSOD , or just nothing happens

Plz kindly help me with my issues if someone's online that'd be really gr8

thanks in advance

and VCore is not actually 1.46 its actually 1.525 in bios , and max temp goes to 75 , stil this is not orthos stable


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Can you tell us vCore, vNB/vSB, v1.2, and vTT? Also, what version of Everest is that?

***EDIT: I'm thinking my GTX problem is power related, because if I adopt a more conservative OC, I can be rock solid. It's weird. I thought the Antec 650 TruePower would be sufficient. Oh, well.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kartik3vv*


Hi guys , can anyone here actually explain few questions of mine

i'm really worried about the temps , and i dunno how ppl manage to hit 1800-2000 FSB , and Is P5N32-E SLI really bad at OC

i can never go beyond 3.5 Ghz , either bios freezes during setup , or BSOD , or just nothing happens

Plz kindly help me with my issues if someone's online that'd be really gr8

thanks in advance

and VCore is not actually 1.46 its actually 1.525 in bios , and max temp goes to 75 , stil this is not orthos stable



first of all do you have active cooling on NorthBridge and SouthBridge?
max temp go to 75 ?which temp ?core or cpu ?

do you use unlinked memory configuration in bios ? 
before overclocking you should disable some items in bios.did you disable them or not ?


----------



## apointo

Need help...
Just bought myself 2x1GB OCZ PC2-6400 4-4-4-15 2.1v EPP-Ready 800Mhz memory. After setting EPP timings up, and changing voltage to 2.1 in bios, CPU-Z shows, that I'm still using JEDEC#3 timings, which are 5-5-5-15...I've also tried to set 2.2v, didn't help aswell. I have no clue how to deal with it.... I'm using p5n32-e sli plus motherboard with 1002 beta bios....


----------



## tmitmi

Hi was wondering if anyone could tell me how i can lower my cpu voltages cos its really high right now.
From everest;

Field Value
Sensor Properties 
Sensor Type IT8718F + W83791D + ADT7475 (ISA 290h, SMB 2Dh, SMB 2Eh)
GPU Sensor Type Driver (NV-DRV)
Motherboard Name Asus P5N32-E / Striker Extreme
Chassis Intrusion Detected No

Temperatures 
Motherboard 25 Â°C (77 Â°F)
CPU 33 Â°C (91 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #1 45 Â°C (113 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #2 43 Â°C (109 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #3 49 Â°C (120 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #4 50 Â°C (122 Â°F)
GPU 45 Â°C (113 Â°F)
GPU Ambient 36 Â°C (97 Â°F)
Temperature #1 -17 Â°C (1 Â°F)
Temperature #2 -17 Â°C (1 Â°F)
Temperature #3 -18 Â°C (0 Â°F)

Cooling Fans 
CPU 1619 RPM

Voltage Values 
CPU Core 2.10 V
+3.3 V 2.22 V
+5 V 3.74 V
+12 V 8.90 V
+5 V Standby 3.74 V
VBAT Battery 2.22 V
FSB VTT 1.58 V
North Bridge Core 1.41 V
South Bridge Core 1.50 V
HyperTransport 1.34 V
DIMM 2.13 V
DIMM VTT 1.06 V

I dont understand a thing about voltages, but when i boot my pc it says something about abnormal voltages / temperature etc.. Ive tried resetting my bios into factory settings and exact same thing happens. (Cpu core @ 2.10V)

Any help appreciated.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hi, tmitmi & apointo. You must understand how it might be very, very difficult for us to understand your situation without first knowing what is attached to your P5N32-E. Please fill in the following as thoroughly as possible. The more detail you provide, the better:

http://www.overclock.net/specs.php

Thanks!


----------



## tmitmi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Hi, tmitmi & apointo. You must understand how it might be very, very difficult for us to understand your situation without first knowing what is attached to your P5N32-E. Please fill in the following as thoroughly as possible. The more detail you provide, the better:

http://www.overclock.net/specs.php

Thanks!

Okay i filled in everything i know about my pc







Hope it helps.


----------



## vinodfrndz

my cpu core is at 1.3v!!!

maybe ur cpu core is over volt!


----------



## supeg93

I was sick of getting crappy overclocks on my q6600 cpu on this board max was 2925. So i bought a cosmos case, north and south bridge coolers, and a watercooling set. Put it all in and went from 77c load to 44c thats at 1.35 vcore. Pushed the fsb from 1300 up to 1400, BSOD on boot. Pushed vcore up to 1.45, north/south up a bit and ram and rebooted. Stilll bsod. Remember someone mentioning something about fsb problems at certain levels so just as a fluke i set it from 1400 to 1550. Booted normally! Running prime a hour fine, 60c max temp.

So why can i not use 1400 but can use 1550 fsb??


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *apointo*


Need help...
Just bought myself 2x1GB OCZ PC2-6400 4-4-4-15 2.1v EPP-Ready 800Mhz memory. After setting EPP timings up, and changing voltage to 2.1 in bios, CPU-Z shows, that I'm still using JEDEC#3 timings, which are 5-5-5-15...I've also tried to set 2.2v, didn't help aswell. I have no clue how to deal with it.... I'm using p5n32-e sli plus motherboard with 1002 beta bios....


go to bios and change your memory configuration to unlinked and then try to change your memory timming again.
also disable sli ready memory option.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tmitmi*


Hi was wondering if anyone could tell me how i can lower my cpu voltages cos its really high right now.
From everest;

Field Value
Sensor Properties 
Sensor Type IT8718F + W83791D + ADT7475 (ISA 290h, SMB 2Dh, SMB 2Eh)
GPU Sensor Type Driver (NV-DRV)
Motherboard Name Asus P5N32-E / Striker Extreme
Chassis Intrusion Detected No

Temperatures 
Motherboard 25 Â°C (77 Â°F)
CPU 33 Â°C (91 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #1 45 Â°C (113 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #2 43 Â°C (109 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #3 49 Â°C (120 Â°F)
CPU #1 / Core #4 50 Â°C (122 Â°F)
GPU 45 Â°C (113 Â°F)
GPU Ambient 36 Â°C (97 Â°F)
Temperature #1 -17 Â°C (1 Â°F)
Temperature #2 -17 Â°C (1 Â°F)
Temperature #3 -18 Â°C (0 Â°F)

Cooling Fans 
CPU 1619 RPM

Voltage Values 
CPU Core 2.10 V
+3.3 V 2.22 V
+5 V 3.74 V
+12 V 8.90 V
+5 V Standby 3.74 V
VBAT Battery 2.22 V
FSB VTT 1.58 V
North Bridge Core 1.41 V
South Bridge Core 1.50 V
HyperTransport 1.34 V
DIMM 2.13 V
DIMM VTT 1.06 V

I dont understand a thing about voltages, but when i boot my pc it says something about abnormal voltages / temperature etc.. Ive tried resetting my bios into factory settings and exact same thing happens. (Cpu core @ 2.10V)

Any help appreciated.


first of all upgrade your bios to 1203 .and see if you still have this problem or not.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *supeg93*


I was sick of getting crappy overclocks on my q6600 cpu on this board max was 2925. So i bought a cosmos case, north and south bridge coolers, and a watercooling set. Put it all in and went from 77c load to 44c thats at 1.35 vcore. Pushed the fsb from 1300 up to 1400, BSOD on boot. Pushed vcore up to 1.45, north/south up a bit and ram and rebooted. Stilll bsod. Remember someone mentioning something about fsb problems at certain levels so just as a fluke i set it from 1400 to 1550. Booted normally! Running prime a hour fine, 60c max temp.

So why can i not use 1400 but can use 1550 fsb??


you should disable some items in bios before overclocking.did you disable them ?

also you should change your memory setting to be unlinked .did you change it too ?


----------



## mhsbrian

Sup fellas, I've been putting off sitting down and finally spending hours with my board but I really need to start doing it >.<.

I have the P5N32-E Sli PLUS and I haven't seen many people that bought the Plus model of this board. I was wondering anyone with the same EXACT board has had better luck than I've had in the past trying to get my q6600 to 3.0 Ghz.
If someone here with the same board has had some luck help me out because I cant seem to get past 2.8 Ghz.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mhsbrian* 
Sup fellas, I've been putting off sitting down and finally spending hours with my board but I really need to start doing it >.<.

I have the P5N32-E Sli PLUS and I haven't seen many people that bought the Plus model of this board. I was wondering anyone with the same EXACT board has had better luck than I've had in the past trying to get my q6600 to 3.0 Ghz.
If someone here with the same board has had some luck help me out because I cant seem to get past 2.8 Ghz.

your board and none plus version is not so good for overclocking quad core cpu because they have some voltage problem for overclocking quad core cpu.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker* 
your board and none plus version is not so good for overclocking quad core cpu because they have some voltage problem for overclocking quad core cpu.









Yea its really ashame actually. On my mobo box it says Intel Quad-Core ready, should really say quad core [email protected] speeds with v problems..


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny9794* 
Yea its really ashame actually. On my mobo box it says Intel Quad-Core ready, should really say quad core [email protected] speeds with v problems..

Quad core with stock speed and mid rang overclock are ok but it's not good for experienced overclocker with quad core cpu.


----------



## apointo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Hi, tmitmi & apointo. You must understand how it might be very, very difficult for us to understand your situation without first knowing what is attached to your P5N32-E. Please fill in the following as thoroughly as possible. The more detail you provide, the better:

http://www.overclock.net/specs.php

Thanks!

Done....


----------



## apointo

*To* *PersianOverClocker*

Yes I tried to do so, but another problem appeared, my 1002 beta bios doesn't want to change these settings. After the restart, when I enter the bios again, I find them set back to Auto....


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *apointo*


*To* *PersianOverClocker*

Yes I tried to do so, but another problem appeared, my 1002 beta bios doesn't want to change these settings. After the restart, when I enter the bios again, I find them set back to Auto....


maybe you should check asus website and send them support email.They usually answer to your email less than 24 Hr.


----------



## vinodfrndz

can nyone please tell me whats the NB,SB and 1.2 ht voltages of p5n32 e sli under stock conditions no overclock whatsoever !!

and the cpu core volt is it 1.3v or 1.35v?


----------



## sirokket16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vinodfrndz* 
can nyone please tell me whats the NB,SB and 1.2 ht voltages of p5n32 e sli under stock conditions no overclock whatsoever !!

and the cpu core volt is it 1.3v or 1.35v?

NB 1.2v
SB 1.5v
HT 1.25v (I believe)
Vtt 1.25v (I believe)

These should be the lowest voltage values that you can select from the menu options. The board will overvolt them by approx. .05v so don't be alarmed if they don't read exactly what they are set to. Not too sure about the correct CPU Vcore, but 1.3v should do fine.


----------



## apointo

Need help...
Just bought myself 2x1GB OCZ PC2-6400 4-4-4-15 2.1v EPP-Ready 800Mhz memory. After setting EPP timings up, and changing voltage to 2.1 in bios, CPU-Z shows, that I'm still using JEDEC#3 timings, which are 5-5-5-15...I've also tried to set 2.2v, didn't help aswell. I have no clue how to deal with it.... I'm using p5n32-e sli plus motherboard with 1002 beta bios....
__________________


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Got my Q6600 up to 3.53GHz now. This board kicks ass!


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *apointo* 
Need help...
Just bought myself 2x1GB OCZ PC2-6400 4-4-4-15 2.1v EPP-Ready 800Mhz memory. After setting EPP timings up, and changing voltage to 2.1 in bios, CPU-Z shows, that I'm still using JEDEC#3 timings, which are 5-5-5-15...I've also tried to set 2.2v, didn't help aswell. I have no clue how to deal with it.... I'm using p5n32-e sli plus motherboard with 1002 beta bios....
__________________

I told you before that you should contact asus support .
your mainboard bios has problem and it didn't save your memory configuration.
maybe you should re write your bios again with the current version or downgrade to lower bios.check to see if the ex version of bios csupport your current cpu and if it support it try ex bios version.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMD+nVidia* 







Got my Q6600 up to 3.53GHz now. This board kicks ass!

Congratulations .I heared that this board has problem with overclocking quad cores and voltage but it seems you don't have this kind of problems.


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker* 
Congratulations .I heared that this board has problem with overclocking quad cores and voltage but it seems you don't have this kind of problems.









I swear it's the new BIOS version!


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMD+nVidia* 
I swear it's the new BIOS version!









which one (version)?


----------



## mllrkllr88

What is the max FSB anyone has hit with P5N32/E6600? I am at 434 (39c, 1.525) and I think that is very close to my max. I want 500 rea


----------



## mllrkllr88

I want 500 really bad, will this board do it? Has anyone hit 500 or over?


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


which one (version)?


1403 (the latest)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*


I want 500 really bad, will this board do it? Has anyone hit 500 or over?


Yes, I've seen reports of it going over 500 actually


----------



## mllrkllr88

Cool, thanks for the reply








I really wanted to see what my max potential is going to be. I dropped the multiplier to 6 and I hit 525 on the first try, but no higher. I didn't even get a post when I was over 525. I am in process of building a dry ice pot to get the max out of my E6600. It looks like 4.725 is my ultimate max. Bummer, I wanted the coveted 5.0 screen shot. 
Does anyone want to buy a "slightly overclocked" E6600 in a month... JK


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*


Cool, thanks for the reply








I really wanted to see what my max potential is going to be. I dropped the multiplier to 6 and I hit 525 on the first try, but no higher. I didn't even get a post when I was over 525. I am in process of building a dry ice pot to get the max out of my E6600. It looks like 4.725 is my ultimate max. Bummer, I wanted the coveted 5.0 screen shot. 
Does anyone want to buy a "slightly overclocked" E6600 in a month... JK


NICE!







More more more!


----------



## mllrkllr88

I want 5.0 how can I get it when I max out at 525. I cant bump up the multiplier on my E6600. HOW, (besides the foxcon mars0


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Today I find Something very interesting.Everest Ultimate Edition v.4.50.1355 beta Show SPP Temperature and it means now we can see NorthBridge Temperature on this board too.


















But it don't show full GPU Temperatures like older 4.20 versions.


----------



## Heavy Light 117

Hey guys,

awesome site and thread. I read up on how to OC my q6600 (i know i know







) Anywhoo, I got it to 3.0ghz and ran some prime. Here are my results. Is this enough to say its stable? I heard there some different types of tests in prime that I could try but I'm not sure how configure them to test what i need. Thanks in advance








Attachment 71006

p.s. Temps got up there I know but I decided I'm not going to do [email protected] until I get better cooling (This thermaltake 760i isn't that great to tell you the truth. I should have come here to ask for some advice before I bought it







)


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*


I want 5.0 how can I get it when I max out at 525. I cant bump up the multiplier on my E6600. HOW, (besides the foxcon mars0


You can't! The multi is locked on almost all chips, unless you buy the extreme/black editions.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker*


Today I find Something very interesting.Everest Ultimate Edition v.4.50.1355 beta Show SPP Temperature and it means now we can see NorthBridge Temperature on this board too.










Awesome find!! Rep+!


----------



## GoneTomorrow

I've been drooling over the new Quads that are out (well sort of out). Has anyone had any success with the Q9450 or Q9300 on this board with the latest BIOS? I see that Q6600 users are doing well now with the 1403 BIOS, but I don't want to invest in a new Quad if this board can't OC it.


----------



## Heavy Light 117

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow*


I've been drooling over the new Quads that are out (well sort of out). Has anyone had any success with the Q9450 or Q9300 on this board with the latest BIOS? I see that Q6600 users are doing well now with the 1403 BIOS, but I don't want to invest in a new Quad if this board can't OC it.


Although I'm fairly new to the site and overclocking I've seen many people beating themselves over the head trying to OC the q6600 on this board. However, there is people out in the Asus forums who claim they have gotten the q6600 to 3.6ghz *He increased his voltage beyond 1.5 for his vcore







* In the end I think if you want to save yourself some headache you should look into some of the newer boards.

As for the new bios I haven't tried it yet but it seems its been more widely accepted then the other bios. (I'm running 1203)


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Heavy Light 117*


Although I'm fairly new to the site and overclocking I've seen many people beating themselves over the head trying to OC the q6600 on this board. However, there is people out in the Asus forums who claim they have gotten the q6600 to 3.6ghz *He increased his voltage beyond 1.5 for his vcore







* In the end I think if you want to save yourself some headache you should look into some of the newer boards.

As for the new bios I haven't tried it yet but it seems its been more widely accepted then the other bios. (I'm running 1203)


Try 1403, I've noticed a few good OC's around here with the Q6600 with that BIOS.

Not a pressing issue anyway since the new Quads aren't in stock anywhere anyway.


----------



## Heavy Light 117

hey guys quick questions, I ran memtest over night and it completed the loop 20 times with no errors. My system did almost an hour of prime but when I started [email protected] my computer stop responding(my cursor still moved but it I couldn't click on anything or open the start menu)

So here's my question, if my ram isn't showing any errors then the adjustments the lay ahead are in the areas of voltage settings on my cpu correct? I just lowered it from 1.35 to 1.343. Also, how do I go about changing voltage settings for my bridges if I'm not sure my cpu is at the correct voltage setting?


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Heavy Light 117*


hey guys quick questions, I ran memtest over night and it completed the loop 20 times with no errors. My system did almost an hour of prime but when I started [email protected] my computer stop responding(my cursor still moved but it I couldn't click on anything or open the start menu)

So here's my question, if my ram isn't showing any errors then the adjustments the lay ahead are in the areas of voltage settings on my cpu correct? I just lowered it from 1.35 to 1.343. Also, how do I go about changing voltage settings for my bridges if I'm not sure my cpu is at the correct voltage setting?


There's your problem right there! You should be running [email protected] instead of that!


----------



## Heavy Light 117

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMD+nVidia*


There's your problem right there! You should be running [email protected] instead of that!


hmmm.... I'm going to try [email protected] I tried a long time ago when i first built my computer but I didn't like the way I had to set it up just to run on all four cores. Rosetta on the other hand uses all the cores without any configuration. I'm going to do some research.

Is there some type of inherent issue with Rosetta 's code that would make my system seem unstable? It's odd because it can perform all the other benchmark programs without any problems?

I just ran OCCT for an hour with no problems. Here are my temp results.


----------



## menko2

i just upgrade the ram from 2gb ocz sli pc8500 to another extra 2gb of the same kit.

my pc wont boot until i put 2T and also relac the timmings.

i was using 830mhz at 4-4-4-12 1T.

now i have to use 800mhz at 5-5-5-12 2T.

what is the problem?? the sticks are the same....


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *menko2* 
i just upgrade the ram from 2gb ocz sli pc8500 to another extra 2gb of the same kit.

my pc wont boot until i put 2T and also relac the timmings.

i was using 830mhz at 4-4-4-12 1T.

now i have to use 800mhz at 5-5-5-12 2T.

what is the problem?? the sticks are the same....

What voltage are you running the RAM at?


----------



## menko2

im using it at 2,125. i forgot to mention it.

should i increase it since i put an extra 2gb or it doesnt matter??


----------



## vinodfrndz

what is this vdrooping everyones referin to??

and somebody said this mobo has uber cool vdroopin.
so what is this vdrooping?


----------



## mica3speedy

well I got the latest everest, is 60c for nb acceptable? This is with folding going on in the background.


----------



## Heavy Light 117

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


well I got the latest everest, is 60c for nb acceptable? This is with folding going on in the background.


Can I get a link to this latest everest?


----------



## menko2

after some hours testing, the best i could get with 4x1gb ocz pc8500 sli is this;

700mhz @ 5-5-5-12 1T at 2,125v.

i used to go with 825mhz @ 4-4-4-12 1T at 2,125v with only 2 slots (2gb).

i tried to change the voltajes until 2,200 but no way;

will it be better for games to use only 2gb with better performance??


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Heavy Light 117*


Can I get a link to this latest everest?


It's not free but there's a 30 day trial version:

http://www.lavalys.com/products/download.php

Highly recommended purchase though, I use it so much.


----------



## menko2

hey gonetomorrow, any help for me in the post above?? please...

thank you!


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
well I got the latest everest, is 60c for nb acceptable? This is with folding going on in the background.

yes and you should use active cooling on your North Bridge .mine is 52c.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Heavy Light 117* 
Can I get a link to this latest everest?

Try this :

Everest Ultimate Edition v.4.50.1355 beta

http://rapidshare.com/files/10907380....1355_beta.rar


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *menko2* 
after some hours testing, the best i could get with 4x1gb ocz pc8500 sli is this;

700mhz @ 5-5-5-12 1T at 2,125v.

i used to go with 825mhz @ 4-4-4-12 1T at 2,125v with only 2 slots (2gb).

i tried to change the voltajes until 2,200 but no way;

will it be better for games to use only 2gb with better performance??

which bios do you use ? (which version )


----------



## menko2

im using the last one; 1403.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*


hey gonetomorrow, any help for me in the post above?? please...

thank you!


First I would try only the new kit by itself and see if it can run at the same timings and frequency as the original. If it does not, then you may have a bad module. If it does, then it's a mystery, this board might not like your RAM. In fact, OCZ RAM is not on the QVL for this board at all:

http://api.ning.com/files/K7XqpXvg6H...2E_SLI_QVL.pdf

That doesn't mean that memory _not_ on the QVL won't work, but the QVL guarantees that the memory listed has been tested and works.

Problems like you are having are why I only use QVL memory for any board that I use.

As I said, try different combinations of your RAM, 2 GB at a time. Try running memtest86 as well on each kit. It could just be a bad module. I've gotten bad modules from OCZ before, both sticks in the same kit even!

I do know that OCZ has an excellent support forum, so try your query there:

http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/forum/index.php

If your sticks are bad, OCZ has a lifetime warranty on all of their products.


----------



## mica3speedy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PersianOverClocker* 
yes and you should use active cooling on your North Bridge .mine is 52c.

Try this :

Everest Ultimate Edition v.4.50.1355 beta

http://rapidshare.com/files/10907380....1355_beta.rar

if it's acceptable, what is the absolute max I would want the nb to be at safely?


----------



## sirokket16

Are you saying that there is a NB temperature monitor on the MB that can now be read in Everest on these boards?? I have an external sensor on mine and it reads around 45 with stock cooling and a 50mm fan.

One thing I did recently that dropped my temps by about 5 degrees was buy some size 4-40 nuts and bolts and replace all the plastic push pins that hold the heatpipes on the MB. I also used nylon washers on the back side of the mobo to shield them. Its a little tricky holding everything together and getting the nuts on the bolts. Great mod for a few bucks.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
well I got the latest everest, is 60c for nb acceptable? This is with folding going on in the background.

Decent temperatures indeed for your north and southbridge. Is that with the stock cooling on the chipset? If so, bravo. My NB/SB with stock cooling was in the 80s Celsius until I got aftermarket HSFs (Thermaltake Extreme Spirit IIs)


----------



## mica3speedy

that's with stock chipset cooling. I've been debating over getting some spirits and mosfet cooling; but the jury is still out. I've been afraid to go higher with my oc since I was afraid of what my nb temps would be.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


that's with stock chipset cooling. I've been debating over getting some spirits and mosfet cooling; but the jury is still out. I've been afraid to go higher with my oc since I was afraid of what my nb temps would be.


Well I ran my system with chipset temps in the 70s and 80s for a while without issue, but I got some cooling eventually so I wouldn't fry my board.


----------



## mica3speedy

so what would be the highest my nb temps should get that's still safe?


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


so what would be the highest my nb temps should get that's still safe?


Opinions vary on that one, I wouldn't let it approach 70c. Look into some aftermarket chipset coolers, Thermalright makes good passive coolers though they are huge. Thermaltake and Jing Ting make good HSF coolers. However your temps aren't as drastic as mine were, so you might start with some cheap Evercool or Vantec HSF like this:
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16835119080

and see how well they do. Replacing the garbage TIM that Asus puts on the chipset makes a huge difference as well. When I installed two TT ESIIs plus AS Ceramique, my chipset temps dropped by over 30 degrees.


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinodfrndz*


what is this vdrooping everyones referin to??

and somebody said this mobo has uber cool vdroopin.
so what is this vdrooping?


vDroop is the phenomena where the voltage you tell the board send to the CPU, drops by some amounts, for unknown reasons.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMD+nVidia*


vDroop is the phenomena where the voltage you tell the board send to the CPU, drops by some amounts, for unknown reasons.


I don't get the slightest amount of vdroop on my board thankfully.


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow*


I don't get the slightest amount of vdroop on my board thankfully.


It doesn't really matter, you can just up the voltage to compensate...


----------



## t4ct1c47

I've not given the 1403 BIOS a proper workout yet with this board so I've just flashed to it from 1203. I'll have a play about tonight and post back later to confirm whether or not I see any improvement over 1203.

The highest I've been able to attain with my Q6600 on the 1203 BIOS was *3.3Ghz*. Unfortunately overclocking is somewhat more complicated for me as I have to pay closer attention to my RAM's speed if I want to be able to maintain 1T timeings. This is as I'm makeing use of four 1GB DIMM's as opposed to two 2GB DIMM's.


----------



## PersianOverClocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


if it's acceptable, what is the absolute max I would want the nb to be at safely?


There is no reference for NB temperature and it's maximum but I think for good overclock and increasing your board life it should be less than 60c.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sirokket16*


Are you saying that there is a NB temperature monitor on the MB that can now be read in Everest on these boards?? 
.


yes new Everest Ultimate Edition v.4.50.1355 beta and maybe newer beta version can read SPP temperature as well as MCP temperature .









Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*


im using the last one; 1403.


you have 6600 cpu so bios 1203 is the best for you .only if you want to use intel 45nm cpu I suggest bios 1403 otherwise downgrade to 1203 bios and try again.


----------



## menko2

the modules seemed fine; its just when i install the 4gb using all the slots....

so what is better for games??

4gb at 700mhz 5-5-5-12 1T

2gb at 840mhz 4-4-4-12 1T

??

thank you


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *menko2*


the modules seemed fine; its just when i install the 4gb using all the slots....

so what is better for games??

4gb at 700mhz 5-5-5-12 1T

2gb at 840mhz 4-4-4-12 1T

??

thank you


Well obviously 2GB overclocked is preferred, since you aren't using Vista. I wouldn't waste any money on RAM that doesn't even run at stock speeds.


----------



## sirokket16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMD+nVidia* 
vDroop is the phenomena where the voltage you tell the board send to the CPU, drops by some amounts, for unknown reasons.

It drops in order to let the VRM know that the CPU needs more amps. Explained at AnandTech here:

http://www.anandtech.com/cpuchipsets...spx?i=3184&p=5

Regardless, I did the Vdroop mod on my board before this article was published because my clock speed fluctuated so much with the Vdroop. I have experienced less problems and have no regrets.


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sirokket16*


It drops in order to let the VRM know that the CPU needs more amps. Explained at AnandTech here:

http://www.anandtech.com/cpuchipsets...spx?i=3184&p=5

Regardless, I did the Vdroop mod on my board before this article was published because my clock speed fluctuated so much with the Vdroop. I have experienced less problems and have no regrets.


Link to mod? I wanna try this...


----------



## johnny9794

vdroop&vcore pencil mod for p5n32-e and striker.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny9794*


vdroop&vcore pencil mod for p5n32-e and striker.


Thread here: LINK


----------



## menko2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow*


Well obviously 2GB overclocked is preferred, since you aren't using Vista. I wouldn't waste any money on RAM that doesn't even run at stock speeds.


i think that will be the last question with the modules i have. i have 2 options running in XP:

2gb 830mhz 4-4-4-12 1T

4gb 1066mhz 5-5-5-15 2T

what is better for games??


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

The two are going to be about equal in bandwidth since the 2GB is running in CR1. Do you know for certain you'll be able to achieve those speeds and timings on the P5N32-E? I was never able to go above 760MHz with CR1 (1T) and 4x1GB modules are awkward to say the least on this board.


----------



## menko2

with 2gb i get for sure 830mhz at 1T; thats what i have in the last year running.

but now that i have 4gb i can get the same; not even close with 1T.

with 4gb and 2T i can get the modules run at his specs speed 1066mhz but at 2T 5-5-5-15.

which option will be better of the ones i posted above??


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

If you have Everest, just run a RAM benchmark and go with the higher bandwidth score. Based on my tests of CR1 at low speed and CR2 at high speed, you'll probably be better with the faster RAM. It makes sense that they won't operate at CR1 even at the same speed: 4x1 is picky on this board and not all RAM will hit CR1 past 800MHz, so that's some good RAM you have.

Nobody can tell you what's better, unless they have the identical processor (at the exact same speed), the same motherboard, and the exact same RAM. The best way is to test it yourself, and the best way to do THAT is with Everest.

I've attached some of my own personal observations, but this is only to use as an example.


----------



## menko2

i cant get anymore than 1075mhz 5-5-5-15 2T with the 4gb.

i think im going to leave the 4gb instead of 2gb with a bit more speed.

am i doing right??


----------



## sirokket16

What do you guys think of this article?

http://www.anandtech.com/weblog/showpost.aspx?i=428

They blame this processors death on high Vtt. I think they are completely wrong, but I was wondering what you guys thought. I know Robiliar and many others say max out the Vtt because it has no effect on temps or processor longevity. Mine is set to 1.55v in the BIOS and its running at 1.63v and my processor is doing fine. Discuss.


----------



## Heavy Light 117

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sirokket16* 
What do you guys think of this article?

http://www.anandtech.com/weblog/showpost.aspx?i=428

They blame this processors death on high Vtt. I think they are completely wrong, but I was wondering what you guys thought. I know Robiliar and many others say max out the Vtt because it has no effect on temps or processor longevity. Mine is set to 1.55v in the BIOS and its running at 1.63v and my processor is doing fine. Discuss.

Is this the same voltage that the guide tells us to max out? Also, this was a 45nm quad core correct? I thought 45nm quads weren't supported by the strikers...

p.s. I don't know if it should matter but don't 45nm processors have a lower max voltage setting.


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny9794* 
vdroop&vcore pencil mod for p5n32-e and striker.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Thread here: LINK

That. IS. INSANE. How do they come up with that???


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMD+nVidia* 
That. IS. INSANE. How do they come up with that???

thats ironic, Friend and I were in the back smokin n talkin, I mentioned the pencil mod to him he said the same words, was stoned atm man was it hilarious. Like do ppl just sit around and ruin stuff all day till they find a sum or solution? ionno!!!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

People get their hands on the PCB layout of the board - maybe leaked from ASUS techies or maybe it's available as open source. All it takes is one person to leak it before it gets wallpapered in every OC forum on the net.


----------



## Nitroin

Hi to all, I'll be brief if I can (and I apologise for my bad english, I'm from Italy). I have an Asus P5n32-e sli with mounted a thermalright 120 ultra extreme and I note that the northbridge fell very hot (nvidia 680i), so I wonder to know if I can get the HR-05 IFX or the HR-05 IFX sli for cooling the nb, considering that the 120extreme is mounted perpendicular to the floor.

Thanks!


----------



## sirokket16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nitroin* 
Hi to all, I'll be brief if I can (and I apologise for my bad english, I'm from Italy). I have an Asus P5n32-e sli with mounted a thermalright 120 ultra extreme and I note that the northbridge fell very hot (nvidia 680i), so I wonder to know if I can get the HR-05 IFX or the HR-05 IFX sli for cooling the nb, considering that the 120extreme is mounted perpendicular to the floor.

Thanks!

Get Everest and see what your temps are. You can do a lot for your temps by doing some simple, very inexpensive tricks. Others have bought the Thermalright products you mentioned, but they are very expensive and its very tight fit to get them all in there. They don't leave you with much room to move stuff around once you get it all in your case. Download Everest and post your temps.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Ok, *** is going on with my board all of a sudden? I've been trying to OC my Q6700 and all of a sudden the BIOS won't accept any changes to the FSB. If I change it and save it, it's still default when Windows boots. I can change the voltage and memory settings, but not the FSB. In the past two days I could change the FSB no problem. And yes I know this board isn't the best for OCing Quads, but I'm just trying to get my benching OC back and run some benchies before my 780i comes.

So why I can't I adjust it anymore? The only thing that I changed was the BIOS version. I tried 1404, but it seemed to be worse, so I went back to 1403.


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow* 
Ok, *** is going on with my board all of a sudden? I've been trying to OC my Q6700 and all of a sudden the BIOS won't accept any changes to the FSB. If I change it and save it, it's still default when Windows boots. I can change the voltage and memory settings, but not the FSB. In the past two days I could change the FSB no problem. And yes I know this board isn't the best for OCing Quads, but I'm just trying to get my benching OC back and run some benchies before my 780i comes.

So why I can't I adjust it anymore? The only thing that I changed was the BIOS version. I tried 1404, but it seemed to be worse, so I went back to 1403.

Just switch back from Manual settings to Auto, back to manual, and they you can make changes again. Idk, it's some weird bug...


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMD+nVidia* 
Just switch back from Manual settings to Auto, back to manual, and they you can make changes again. Idk, it's some weird bug...

Thanks, I tried that, but no joy. Dammit all. This board was awesome for my C2D, but blows for my C2Q. Can't wait for my 780i.

Anyone else no why I all of a sudden can't make adjustments to the FSB?


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow* 
Thanks, I tried that, but no joy. Dammit all. This board was awesome for my C2D, but blows for my C2Q. Can't wait for my 780i.

Anyone else no why I all of a sudden can't make adjustments to the FSB?

No clue bud... mine works just fine...

You try to reset the CMOS?


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMD+nVidia* 
No clue bud... mine works just fine...

You try to reset the CMOS?

yep.

I've been swapping out BIOS's in the past few days though and I screwed up my boot.ini and had to repair XP, so I think between those I've effed something up good.


----------



## Nitroin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sirokket16*


Get Everest and see what your temps are. You can do a lot for your temps by doing some simple, very inexpensive tricks. Others have bought the Thermalright products you mentioned, but they are very expensive and its very tight fit to get them all in there. They don't leave you with much room to move stuff around once you get it all in your case. Download Everest and post your temps.


I had already everest installed, but I dunno why, I forget to post my northbridge temps. It's constantly around 70Â° Celsius, some time 68Â° and other 75Â° (registred when burning a CD). What leave me astonished is that there's no temperature delta between idle and load. Buh!

EDIT: considers that now, the mb is not OC'ed, and the voltage are all set to the minimum (for the NB and SB).


----------



## t4ct1c47

After trying BIOS 1403 with my Q6600 I found it very difficult to hit 3.2Ghz and remain stable. I tried throwing as much as 1.6v to the CPU and 1.6v to the Northbridge. I also tryed various multipliers but the system simply would not post. I've seen a member of OCN claim a 3.51Ghz overclock on their Q6600 (AMD+nVidia) with the 1403 BIOS but I'm calling shenanigans until I see a CPU-Z referal link.

Anyway guys, those with Quads should stick with 1203, but don't expec much more than 3.3Ghz out of a Q6600 on this board. Meh, but that's not really anything we didn't already know is it?


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


After trying BIOS 1403 with my Q6600 I found it very difficult to hit 3.2Ghz and remain stable. I tried throwing as much as 1.6v to the CPU and 1.6v to the Northbridge. I also tryed various multipliers but the system simply would not post. I've seen a member of OCN claim a 3.51Ghz overclock on their Q6600 (AMD+nVidia) with the 1403 BIOS but I'm calling shenanigans until I see a CPU-Z referal link.

Anyway guys, those with Quads should stick with 1203, but don't expec much more than 3.3Ghz out of a Q6600 on this board. Meh, but that's not really anything we didn't already know is it?


LOL, same here, I was putting so many volts through the board and CPU. I think I need some jumper cables and car battery now.

I managed to get my Q6700 to boot into Windows at 3.8 GHz, and it was actually stable for about an hour, long enough for benchmarks (which were promising), but it got to the point where it BSOD'd every time. So I believe that AMD+Nvidia has gotten 3.51, but I wonder how stable? I can't seem to get any OC at all now.

But AMD+Nvidia, is your OC Prime95 stable? I don't have any reason to doubt you, but as t4 said, "shenanigans!"


----------



## novastar

hi all

I'm going to buy some new ram, what would be the best ram to use
with my P5N32-E

OCZ DDR2 PC2-8500 Reaper HPC Edition

OCZ DDR2 PC2-8500 SLI-Ready Edition

thanks every one


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

If the extra cost is not an issue, I'd go with the Reapers. They hand-pick Micron D9 ICs for those.


----------



## novastar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
If the extra cost is not an issue, I'd go with the Reapers. They hand-pick Micron D9 ICs for those.

ok thanks for help the reaper i was thinking off so i think i will
go for the reaper then


----------



## johnny9794

I know that the SupremeFX card that comes with the p5n32-e sli board crackles "it did with xp".

When I was running XP I swapped the fx card out with an old AW850 cobra sound card cuz the supreme crackled hardcore when I pounded my music "matallica master of puppets" and gamed at the same time or just listening to music with it blasted, it would crackle, BUT! since I moved to vista ult. 64 bit my cobra aw850 sound card was not supported so I was forced to use the supremeFX card that came with the board with vista ult. 64 bit, NOW! no crackling at all.

Has anyone else tried to use the supremeFX card since they have switched to vista ult. 64 bit edition and found that the supremeFX card does not crackle anymore?

This is actually very cool for me, cuz I hate the 4 year old aw850 cobra sound card!!!

Edit: or is this due because I am not ocing atm?


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
After trying BIOS 1403 with my Q6600 I found it very difficult to hit 3.2Ghz and remain stable. I tried throwing as much as 1.6v to the CPU and 1.6v to the Northbridge. I also tryed various multipliers but the system simply would not post. I've seen a member of OCN claim a 3.51Ghz overclock on their Q6600 (AMD+nVidia) with the 1403 BIOS but I'm calling shenanigans until I see a CPU-Z referal link.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *GoneTomorrow* 
LOL, same here, I was putting so many volts through the board and CPU. I think I need some jumper cables and car battery now.

I managed to get my Q6700 to boot into Windows at 3.8 GHz, and it was actually stable for about an hour, long enough for benchmarks (which were promising), but it got to the point where it BSOD'd every time. So I believe that AMD+Nvidia has gotten 3.51, but I wonder how stable? I can't seem to get any OC at all now.

But AMD+Nvidia, is your OC Prime95 stable? I don't have any reason to doubt you, but as t4 said, "shenanigans!"

Ok guys, I get it. And since everyone has so much trouble, I'll provide the proof. But it's downclocked now. I'm waiting on my WC parts, and once that's up, I'll post the link to the (3.53GHz actually) and higher hopefully!


----------



## Litlratt

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=250944

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=275437


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=250944

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=275437

Nice!! O man now I need to beat you!


----------



## sirokket16

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nitroin* 
I had already everest installed, but I dunno why, I forget to post my northbridge temps. It's constantly around 70Â° Celsius, some time 68Â° and other 75Â° (registred when burning a CD). What leave me astonished is that there's no temperature delta between idle and load. Buh!

EDIT: considers that now, the mb is not OC'ed, and the voltage are all set to the minimum (for the NB and SB).

Hmm, those are on the high side. Mine idles around 52-54Â°C with a 1700FSB. However, I have removed the stock thermal crap that was on them and replaced it with AS5 and also replaced the spring loaded plastic push pins with nuts and bolts with nylon washers. The additional pressure alone dropped temps considerably, the AS5 made temps even better. Just get a fan on there for some airflow and you are all set. If you have AS5 and are willing to disassemble the heatpipes I suggest you at least give that a shot. Also consider purchasing the nuts, bolts and nylon washers if you are going to take off the heatpipes anyway. You can get them at any hardware store and they are very cheap. I would recommend replacing all of the push pins.


----------



## Nitroin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sirokket16*


Hmm, those are on the high side. Mine idles around 52-54Â°C with a 1700FSB. However, I have removed the stock thermal crap that was on them and replaced it with AS5 and also replaced the spring loaded plastic push pins with nuts and bolts with nylon washers. The additional pressure alone dropped temps considerably, the AS5 made temps even better. Just get a fan on there for some airflow and you are all set. If you have AS5 and are willing to disassemble the heatpipes I suggest you at least give that a shot. Also consider purchasing the nuts, bolts and nylon washers if you are going to take off the heatpipes anyway. You can get them at any hardware store and they are very cheap. I would recommend replacing all of the push pins.


I've already tried to change the thermal compound, but It doesn't do its work. So I finally decide to buy the HR-05, I'll post a shot when mounted.


----------



## sasaa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *juanchipms*


I have been able to get to 3.2 ghz fsb 1422 at 1.37 v core, 1.4 nb,1.55 sb, bios 1203. idle at 36 degrees and load a dont know because is still testing. i raise because yesterday i got it stable at 3 ghz 1.3 vcore and ran prime95 for 9 hours and the temp was 40 degrees



Quote:



Originally Posted by *sirokket16*


Hmm, those are on the high side. Mine idles around 52-54Â°C with a 1700FSB. However, I have removed the stock thermal crap that was on them and replaced it with AS5 and also replaced the spring loaded plastic push pins with nuts and bolts with nylon washers. The additional pressure alone dropped temps considerably, the AS5 made temps even better. Just get a fan on there for some airflow and you are all set. If you have AS5 and are willing to disassemble the heatpipes I suggest you at least give that a shot. Also consider purchasing the nuts, bolts and nylon washers if you are going to take off the heatpipes anyway. You can get them at any hardware store and they are very cheap. I would recommend replacing all of the push pins.



gonna try that when i get my NB Water cooling (ZM-NWB1)
because I almost don't have a air flow it's getting very hot
luckly i have pushed a NTC between the cooling fins, So i can read temp's at the front of case (very handy)

My pics (and yes I'm very creative ATM







)

btw is SB water cooling to much or?


----------



## Heavy Light 117

Just wanted to update my info for a stable Overclock with a q6600 at 3.0ghz. My ram is running at 5-5-5-18 its rated for 4-4-4-12 but since its linked at 3:4 I loosened the timings. I lowered the vtt from 1.55 to 1.3 and it was like magic. Also cpuz now shows my vcore at 1.29 instead of 1.49 (i thought it was reading it wrong)

Attachment 72023


----------



## sasaa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Heavy Light 117* 
Just wanted to update my info for a stable Overclock with a q6600 at 3.0ghz. My ram is running at 5-5-5-18 its rated for 4-4-4-12 but since its linked at 3:4 I loosened the timings. I lowered the vtt from 1.55 to 1.3 and it was like magic. Also cpuz now shows my vcore at 1.29 instead of 1.49 (i thought it was reading it wrong)

Attachment 72023

could you send me a PM with all you settings ?
would love to OC to 3GHZ









EDITE:
could you send me the 1203 bios? (mine is 1404







)

have to buy cd to flash back to 0903
Boot from USB stick does'nt work for me (bootdisk to bootstick)


----------



## mica3speedy

I'm trying to choose between the following two chipset coolers for my nb:

Thermalright HR-05 IFX
Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II Northbridge Cooler CL-C0034

Which would be easier to mount, better cooling, ect. The spirit looks like it's harder to find. If there are any others I should consider, post them







.


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Won't be long now homies until I get my WC setup, and then I'll start posting stuff!


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
I'm trying to choose between the following two chipset coolers for my nb:

Thermalright HR-05 IFX
Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II Northbridge Cooler CL-C0034

Which would be easier to mount, better cooling, ect. The spirit looks like it's harder to find. If there are any others I should consider, post them







.

Jing Ting makes good ones as well. I recommend the Spirits, very effective and low profile. The Thermalright is enormous but effective.


----------



## sasaa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMD+nVidia* 
Won't be long now homies until I get my WC setup, and then I'll start posting stuff!

better let it degauss for 24 hours (connect pin 20+24 on powercable btw its green and black but think you would know that







)
and if you can turn your pc upsidedown airbubbles ain't funny









what did you buy a zalman or termaltake or ?


----------



## _Hawke_

Hi all, i've been reading through this thread for about a week now and i've learnt lot so thanks all!
The trouble im having is that i cant get above a FSB of 1550, i can get to 1600 and post but it never makes it to windows, has anyone got any tips how i can get close to 4GHz with this processor and board combo??
My voltages are as follows:
NB 1.4
SB Auto
CPU Auto (setting it anythign up to intels max of 1.3625 makes no difference)
CPU VTT 1.55
Memory 2.2

I've had the NB up to 1.5 but it gets a little hot! and doesnt help at all!

Also im new to NB cooling, so any tips there if i remove the stock?

many thanks


----------



## mica3speedy

what bios are you using? Also make sure your ram and fsb are unlinked. I would also set cpu voltage to a manaully set voltage; and set 1.2ht to 1.3v.


----------



## _Hawke_

hi,
using bios 1404
yeah i already tried vt1.2 set to 1.3 and I set the cpu voltage to the max intel says 1.3625 and it didnt make any difference, i cant seem to push the FSB any higher....
RAM and FSB are unlinked already and sli ready mem is switched off...


----------



## mica3speedy

I'm out of ideas; hopefully someone has something that can help you. Not all chips overclock the same; you may have a bad batch. It happened with my e6700







.


----------



## _Hawke_

bummer ok, i dont know whether this means anything, but i cant drop the multi... i wanted to drop it to see how far i could up the FSB and on next boot it doesnt save it...


----------



## rmanuelb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=250944

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=275437


Hi.

Can you post your Bios Voltage settings ??







... Please...









Thanks

Regards...


----------



## mllrkllr88

Hey guys!
I need some expert help
I am trying to get to 4.0 and bench it. I have achieved 3.9 and got it to bench once but I cant get it back. The best I can get to bench now is 3.8. I have been scooping up all the tidbits of info I can, but I am NOT a pro. Does anyone have any tricks for me? I would really appreciate the advise. Here are my best "bench able" setting.

System:
FSB = 1900 X 8
Vcore = 1.5v
Mem = 1.9 (1.8 rated)
1.2v = 1.3v
NB = 1.5v
SB = 1.5v
VTT = 1.55v

Graphics:
PLAiT "Sonic" 9600GT
OC = 790/1975/1140
Stock = 700/1750/1000

Cooling:
Swiftech 2x120
Koolance CPU & NB
Swiftech Micro Res
Swiftech MCP350
Plenty of Antec 120 fans


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sasaa* 
better let it degauss for 24 hours (connect pin 20+24 on powercable btw its green and black but think you would know that







)
and if you can turn your pc upsidedown airbubbles ain't funny









what did you buy a zalman or termaltake or ?

I have NO clue what you just said!


----------



## alexisd

Stop around to said hi to all the happy owners of this board/lol.Mine still strong no problems and hard to change.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alexisd*


Stop around to said hi to all the happy owners of this board/lol.Mine still strong no problems and hard to change.


lol, I wanna get away from it as soon as possible







.


----------



## novastar

hi all

i have just put my new 2x1 gig ocz Reapers pc2 8500 into my system last night,
and i also put the settings to default so i could start my overclocking from skrach again, i then changed the vcore to what the guide recommends,
and the ram voltage to 2.1volts, the rest of the voltages i left as auto for now.
I then put the overclocking settings to manual, and then i unlinked the FSB and Memory Clocks speeds i then exited and saved the settings , then i rebooted to see how the system runs but found that the cpu clock speed hadn't change, so
i rebooted and found that the voltage had saved but the the overclocking settings had gone to auto so i reset it all again and tryed again but it did the same thing so i then tryed the AI overvlocking to see if that would work but it didn't just the same thing as before it just wont save all the settings.

can any one "help"


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:


Originally Posted by *novastar* 
hi all

i have just put my new 2x1 gig ocz Reapers pc2 8500 into my system last night,
and i also put the settings to default so i could start my overclocking from skrach again, i then changed the vcore to what the guide recommends,
and the ram voltage to 2.1volts, the rest of the voltages i left as auto for now.
I then put the overclocking settings to manual, and then i unlinked the FSB and Memory Clocks speeds i then exited and saved the settings , then i rebooted to see how the system runs but found that the cpu clock speed hadn't change, so
i rebooted and found that the voltage had saved but the the overclocking settings had gone to auto so i reset it all again and tryed again but it did the same thing so i then tryed the AI overvlocking to see if that would work but it didn't just the same thing as before it just wont save all the settings.

can any one "help"









Which Bios are you using? 1203 is the best, unless you go with a wolfdale.


----------



## novastar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny9794* 
Which Bios are you using? 1203 is the best, unless you go with a wolfdale.

my bios ver is 1403


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:


Originally Posted by *novastar* 
my bios ver is 1403

as in you reset everythiing, did you set overclocking to manual and then hit F10 to save? and so it will not save the overclocking to manual, it just resets it to auto.


----------



## novastar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny9794* 
as in you reset everythiing, did you set overclocking to manual and then hit F10 to save? and so it will not save the overclocking to manual, it just resets it to auto.

yes i set overclocking to manual and then hit F10 to save it and when i checked the bios to make shore it has saved, the settings had gone back to auto


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:


Originally Posted by *novastar* 
yes i set overclocking to manual and then hit F10 to save it and when i checked the bios to make shore it has saved, the settings had gone back to auto

Maybe try using bios 1203 and see if that helps. otherwise, wait till someone else replies?

I am using 1203 and never had any bios problems like that, 1203 is best for overclocking.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I'm still on 1203. 1302 was a POS, and I think all recent revisions are for newer chips (I'm running an E6750 on my P5N32-E). If you're running a newer chip than that (Wolfdales) or Razer devices, certainly consider a newer BIOS... but 1203 is the cornerstone BIOS for this board, IMHO.


----------



## novastar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny9794* 
Maybe try using bios 1203 and see if that helps. otherwise, wait till someone else replies?

I am using 1203 and never had any bios problems like that, 1203 is best for overclocking.

ok thanks for the help


----------



## novastar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


I'm still on 1203. 1302 was a POS, and I think all recent revisions are for newer chips (I'm running an E6750 on my P5N32-E). If you're running a newer chip than that (Wolfdales) or Razer devices, certainly consider a newer BIOS... but 1203 is the cornerstone BIOS for this board, IMHO.


ok i will reflash bios and see how that go's 
thanks


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *novastar*


ok thanks for the help


np, Let us know if you get the problem fixed.


----------



## novastar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny9794*


np, Let us know if you get the problem fixed.


ok no probs


----------



## _Hawke_

anyone know why it wont save my settings when i lower the multi?? im on bios version 1404... i've tried using the =/- to change it, and also selecting from a list, but it never seems to save the new multi...


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_Hawke_*


anyone know why it wont save my settings when i lower the multi?? im on bios version 1404... i've tried using the =/- to change it, and also selecting from a list, but it never seems to save the new multi...


sounds like 1403 and 1404 are junk.


----------



## slytown

Unless you need something in 1404, I would just revert back to the previous BIOS that worked.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slytown*


Unless you need something in 1404, I would just revert back to the previous BIOS that worked.


well hawke seems like he is using a wolf so, the 1403 or 1404 are required correct.


----------



## _Hawke_

yeah I have a wolf, E8400 so I gotta have either 1403 or 1404, and 1403 is crap, i wish i had never got rid of my E6600...
anyone know if theres any info on the max voltages for our asus board??

ooo actually i had an idea i have an old GPU fan from a Gforce 5200 card, would it help to literallt sick it onto the NB cooler??


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_Hawke_*


i wish i had never got rid of my E6600...


Well should wish never got the p5n32-e sli "as I do", its asus that is screwing things up, and I am getting a e8500 around june 1st, I will burn this mobo if I have one slight problem like you guys aree having, I cannot even get my p4 stable to 3.8 on this 250 dollar waste of money. to add another thing the voltage reading's on this board are HORRIBLE, say like you set the dimm voltage to 2.2 in bios, it actually runs it a whole .5 volts ahead or some crap like that, I still have not figured it out "my ram is prolly gonna die in a couple months just because we actually do not know what volts the mobo sets it at", seems like it be better off to be a safe with a combination lock.

Yea, evga here I come








hopefully.

Edit: ncix finally has the e8500 so I do not need to wait till june 1st, ncix said they have em in by june 1st but I just checked it out and they have em in stock, awesome, gonna order it asap...


----------



## mica3speedy

currently knocking on wood that I'm not having any issues with 1404 other than having to reset cmos for the first time ever when I first updated to it from 1403.


----------



## novastar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny9794*


np, Let us know if you get the problem fixed.


not do to well at the can't seem to flash my BIOS backwards to 1203 or 1205 
been trying to flash using a dos-flashing with a floppy drive way not working


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *novastar*


not do to well at the can't seem to flash my BIOS backwards to 1203 or 1205 
been trying to flash using a dos-flashing with a floppy drive way not working 

















yea, there is a way, but I forget where i read it, maybe in this forum"Asus P5N32-E Overclocking Guide" here somewhere someone was asking the same question. let me see if I can find it.


----------



## johnny9794

Ok i found it.

Original post.
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ml#post3501096

Answer is here.
Instructions on how to Revert back to older bios's.
http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...Language=en-us


----------



## novastar

hi there

i have just managed to backwards flash my Bios at last i been looking at a several guide the one that worked for me was to

download - drdflash - AWDFlash v1.18 - BIOS version the only one that worked for me was BIOS version 1103

step 1: create a boot disk bye running the drdflash.exe file(plaese not that the floppy"looks"empty but it isn't... approx 184kb is used up)

step 2: extract the awdFlash v1.18 and BIOS version from the zip file and copy to the boot disk

step 3: reboot the pc and enter BIOS, and make sure it boots from floppy first

step 4: reboot pc again, this time with the boot disk in the system

step 5: at the A:/ promt type" awdflash 1103.bin /f " don't for get the spaces:

step 6: the awardBIOS flash utility will start , when prompted to save press <N>key you will then be prompted to start programing press <Y>key, the utility will start the flash, after flashing is complete a message indicating that you have successfully flashed the BIOS file. remove the disk then press <F1>key to restart your system.









i then used the ASUSUpdate to get the version that i wanted witch i wanted 
happy day's get the bant out























thanks for your help johnny9794 your a star


----------



## boomshnka

I recently installed an e3110 processor on my p5n32e-sli system(after upgrading to the 1404 BIOS) and now have some questions about temperatures and overclocking.

Like many others, I'm getting some weird temperature readings out of this processor. The MB temperature monitor in the BIOS says it's idling at about 70 degrees. Core Temp says that it's idling at about 49 (core 0) / 56 (core 1). Real Temp says that it's idling at about 39 (core) / 46 (core1). For the time being I'm choosing to believe Real Temp but I've also noticed the idle temp of my GPU has gone from 55 to 60. I'm assuming that this is because of more heat being kicked out by the processor. My old processor (E6600) would idle around 40 (both cores, any method of monitoring it).

Is there any consensus as to which temperature is accurate? Should I seriously consider a different MB if I want to get the temperatures down to a normal range?

On to my second question, overclocking, which probably needs to be put on a back burner until I get the temps figured out but I want to ask.

I've read that I should be able to get a decent overclock (10-20%) by simply upping the FSB speed without any need for additional voltage. I tried this (moved FSB speed from 1333 to 1466) but didn't see the speed of the processor increase. The only thing I noticed was a seven degree increase in core temps. I know I have to be missing something as I'm really new to overclocking. Can anybody provide a good answer as to how I can get a stable overclock on this processor without getting too close to the bleeding edge?

Thanks,


----------



## snapper

Hey all,

I'm stuck at the moment and was wondering what you guys think the max volts for the NB should be?

The reason I ask is:

I'm currently at an FSB of 1510 (377mhz in bios) and a CPU speed of 3397mhz and 4 thread prime95 small FFTs is stable (12+hours). I've tried my memory at 850mhz (which is what I ran it at on my E6420 previously) and I've also tried it synced (754mhz), however I fail the blended test every time. 1.4v on NB and it fails right away, 1.45 and it goes for an hour, 1.5v and I got 5 hours. I see an obvious trend, but at some point there's just too much heat/volts for my comfort level. Is 1.55v on the NB too much? Even now 1.5v seems like a lot more than most need for stability on this board, but then again these boards aren't known to be that great for quads anyway, so who knows









I have a 40mm fan on the NB, plus the asus striker fans on the PWM heat sinks. Temps are certainly hot on the NB cooler, but that seems to be common.

Current voltage settings:
CPU: 1.4125
NB: 1.5
SB: 1.6
Mem: 2.15
CPU VTT: 1.45
HT: 1.3


----------



## mllrkllr88

Does anyone have any advice about my post on page 491. Should I go to the 1404 bios from 1403. I need help


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*


Does anyone have any advice about my post on page 491. Should I go to the 1404 bios from 1403. I need help










I believe that the 1404 BIOS just added support for OCing 45nm CPUs. I don't think it will help you get a higher OC. You're at 3.9 GHz with 1.5v vcore, that may be all you can get. Vdroop might be keeping you from 4.0 Ghz as well.


----------



## AkiraX123

Hey guys, I have a e6750 on a p5n32-e. I was wondering if anyone could give me an overclock profile for getting this thing to 3.2 ghz. I've been able to get it to 3.2 but only for 15 min. stable w/ prime95+. Suggestions?


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AkiraX123* 
Hey guys, I have a e6750 on a p5n32-e. I was wondering if anyone could give me an overclock profile for getting this thing to 3.2 ghz. I've been able to get it to 3.2 but only for 15 min. stable w/ prime95+. Suggestions?

A few things you should do first:

1. Fill your system specs in the User CP
2. Tell us what your settings are in your BIOS setup: vcore, VTT, RAM voltage, linked/unlinked FSB, ram speed/timings, NB/SB voltage


----------



## AkiraX123

Ok I fixed my userCP! Ok, as of last night I was able to set vcore to about 1.475 - i wasn't sure how much higher i should go than that, considering i've heard other e6750 users made it to 3.2 @ 1.35v?

vcore - 1.475
1.2ht - 1.2
vtt - 1.45
mem - 1.9
nb - 1.45?? im guessing on this one i can't remember.
sb - 1.5

it would post at 3.2 and i could get into windows, but like i said prime95+ crashed in about 10-15 minutes.


----------



## AkiraX123

unlinked, fsb 1600, mem 800


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AkiraX123*


Ok I fixed my userCP! Ok, as of last night I was able to set vcore to about 1.475 - i wasn't sure how much higher i should go than that, considering i've heard other e6750 users made it to 3.2 @ 1.35v?

vcore - 1.475
1.2ht - 1.2
vtt - 1.45
mem - 1.9
nb - 1.45?? im guessing on this one i can't remember.
sb - 1.5

it would post at 3.2 and i could get into windows, but like i said prime95+ crashed in about 10-15 minutes.


Ok, the VTT can be maxed out to 1.55. As for the memory voltage, set to whatever your Corsair memory should be (is it 1.9?).

Try it with the VTT maxed and see if it makes a difference.


----------



## AkiraX123

hey thanks gonetomorrow, ill try that as soon as i get home tonight. yes the corsair is rated at 1.9. hopefully 1.55vtt is the fix...does anyone know what vtt is anyway? i read in the first post that it doesn't appear to raise the temps..but if i set it at 1.55 will it ever harm the board?


----------



## AkiraX123

i pushed the memory up to 1.925 and dropped back the timing to 5-5-5-18 from 5-5-5-12 (this is what the board defaults to anyway). 1.55vtt still doesn't seem to be cutting it though. there must be something else keeping me from getting there. the nb voltage is actually set to 1.33...could it be set to low?


----------



## systemaxd

For those who have owned and or still own this board how high have you got your fsb 24/7 stable and at what volts, and what is your preference max volts for north bridge safe 24/7? I have my NB actively cooled and everest says around 56c with 1.45v to it.


----------



## Heavy Light 117

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AkiraX123*


Ok I fixed my userCP! Ok, as of last night I was able to set vcore to about 1.475 - i wasn't sure how much higher i should go than that, considering i've heard other e6750 users made it to 3.2 @ 1.35v?

vcore - 1.475
1.2ht - 1.2
vtt - 1.45
mem - 1.9
nb - 1.45?? im guessing on this one i can't remember.
sb - 1.5

it would post at 3.2 and i could get into windows, but like i said prime95+ crashed in about 10-15 minutes.



I don't have much experience with your cpu but just as a suggestion have you tried a lower Vcore?


----------



## Heavy Light 117

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AkiraX123*


hey thanks gonetomorrow, ill try that as soon as i get home tonight. yes the corsair is rated at 1.9. hopefully 1.55vtt is the fix...does anyone know what vtt is anyway? i read in the first post that it doesn't appear to raise the temps..but if i set it at 1.55 will it ever harm the board?


Yeah a lot of people have their vtt up to the max but I actually found better results by lowering to around 1.35


----------



## Heavy Light 117

Quote:



Originally Posted by *systemaxd*


For those who have owned and or still own this board how high have you got your fsb 24/7 stable and at what volts, and what is your preference max volts for north bridge safe 24/7? I have my NB actively cooled and everest says around 56c with 1.45v to it.


My NB runs at 85C and I'm running solid for about a month now. Folding and running Crisis so not to concerned. Also for my fsb I have it set to 1333 for my quad and my vcore is around 1.3 I believe. I'll post a screen when I can. (running ubuntu right now and it doesn't have too many monitoring tools)


----------



## Magnus

Awesome guide! It helped me alot thanks.

See attachments. The NB and SB temp dropped 20 degrees Celsius


----------



## _Hawke_

hi all, i was wondering if anyone had any ideas about this, last night my water pump came disconnected, and my cpu got a little warm, cpu is still ok, it cut its self off so no damage there.
Although now i cant get it to post, I have tried a different CPU, and i have cleared cmos, and i have tried ram in all the slots and other chips too and no joy.

Basically it starts to post, reads cpu, checks ram ok, then it gets to the type of ram, and the clock speed and freezes every time, the ram is only at stock speeds as is the cpu, and i have tried a different cpu and the same problem. I cant enter setup either, it just freezes on entering setup,

Anyone got any ideas whats gone wrong???


----------



## stefan9

Hi guys. This has probably been asked before but I need to ask it again.

I am planning to upgrade my cpu in July.

My choices are the e8400 or q6600. Price range is about the same .

I don't think the e8500 is worth the extra R800 for 0.16ghz

Also the mobo doesn't support the newer quads so that's a no go.

Which one would be the better option. Bare in mind this pc is mostly used for rpg gaming with the odd bit of overclocking. Some rts and fps gaming but mostly rpgs.


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stefan9*


Hi guys. This has probably been asked before but I need to ask it again.

I am planning to upgrade my cpu in July.

My choices are the e8400 or q6600. Price range is about the same .

I don't think the e8500 is worth the extra R800 for 0.16ghz

Also the mobo doesn't support the newer quads so that's a no go.

Which one would be the better option. Bare in mind this pc is mostly used for rpg gaming with the odd bit of overclocking. Some rts and fps gaming but mostly rpgs.


e8400 would be your best bet.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny9794* 
e8400 would be your best bet.

x2. For what you're looking at, quad won't increase performance unless you're looking to play those games while you decode video in the BG. The newer BIOSes will be much better at getting your E8400 closer to 4.0GHz than they would be at getting a Q6600 to anything even close to that (some - like Litlratt - have succeeded, but I think they sacrificed some goats to get there).


----------



## johnny9794

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
(but I think they sacrificed some goats to get there).

hilarious statement.


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
(some - like Litlratt *AND AMD+nVidia* - have succeeded, but I think they sacrificed some goats to get there).









I made a deal w/ Satan actually


----------



## demck85

i want to get my RAM to match my FSB for my CPU. Check my specs in my signature to see what I'm running. I was able to get my ram to 1067FSB with the SLI EPP profile when i had my E6600. But now I'm try to get my new E6750 and OCZ PC8500 SLI RAM to run. What settings should everything be at?


----------



## t4ct1c47

A little update from me about my results with the latest 1404 BIOS and my Q6600. The highest I've ever been able to get on the P5N32-E with a Q6600 was 3.3Ghz under the 1203 BIOS. 1403 was also very poor at overclocking and the highest stable clock I could reach was 3.0Ghz with it.

However, the newer 1404 BIOS shows a little improvement as I'm now stable at 3.2Ghz. I can't be bothered to flash the board back to 1203 as there's only 100Mhz difference and the board now has 45nm compatibility should I decide to sell it on.

*A minor point to bear in mind, if you flash to the 1404 BIOS you will need to reset the CMOS once straight afterwards.


----------



## novastar

hi all
were is the best place to start when troubleshooting your overclocked settings and in what order


----------



## blutak_sux

just finished reading through most of the 490 odd pages of text and got a few questions. Firstly, i've managed to get my e6400 to 3.2ghz on air and its stable but as soon as i increase the fsb even past 1600 by 20 mhz it wont post even if i take vcore to like 1.55?? Any ideas,
Just ordered 2 spirit coolers for SB and NB and will be fitting them soon, current temps are 57 and 61 respectively so thought it might be time for some cooling!


----------



## blutak_sux

Quote:


Originally Posted by *novastar* 
hi all
were is the best place to start when troubleshooting your overclocked settings and in what order


whats the problem? is it still posting?


----------



## novastar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blutak_sux* 
whats the problem? is it still posting?

nothing just wondering what would be the best way to troubleshoot a problem should i have one while I'm overclocking


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Ok guys, I'm back up and running! My watercooling system isn't quite tweaked right yet, but here's some to keep you waiting!


----------



## blutak_sux

any advice anyone??


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blutak_sux* 
just finished reading through most of the 490 odd pages of text and got a few questions. Firstly, i've managed to get my e6400 to 3.2ghz on air and its stable but as soon as i increase the fsb even past 1600 by 20 mhz it wont post even if i take vcore to like 1.55?? Any ideas,
Just ordered 2 spirit coolers for SB and NB and will be fitting them soon, current temps are 57 and 61 respectively so thought it might be time for some cooling!

You need to pay attention to the Northbridge voltage as more juice is required by the MCH once you pass a certain point with FSB. I recommend also raiseing 1.2 HT to 1.35v and CPU VTT to 1.55v. The Souhbridge should be ok at 1.55v, but you may also need to increase this as high as 1.6v. Needless to say, don't tstrain the Northbridge or Southbridge voltages until you have aftermarket cooling on the chipsets.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMD=nVidia*
Ok guys, I'm back up and running! My watercooling system isn't quite tweaked right yet, but here's some to keep you waiting!









There's a free *Rep+* waiting for you if you post a verified CPU-Z hyperlink of your overclock. To do this simply select the _About_ tab when you run CPU-Z and the rest is self explanitory. CoreTemp is well known for inaccurately reporting clock speeds when you lower the multiplier.


----------



## Magnus

I have got my E6600 (B2) running at 3.6GHz @ 1.58125v







. The Extreme Spirit NB and Sb coolers are doing a great job.


----------



## blutak_sux

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magnus* 
I have got my E6600 (B2) running at 3.6GHz @ 1.58125v







. The Extreme Spirit NB and Sb coolers are doing a great job.

Mine just arrived in the post today so will be fitting them soon, what temps are your nb and sb at?


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
waiting for you if you post a verified CPU-Z hyperlink of your overclock. To do this simply select the _About_ tab when you run CPU-Z and the rest is self explanitory. CoreTemp is well known for inaccurately reporting clock speeds when you lower the multiplier.









Awsome here ya go! And how about having it even higher!







I'm at 3.6GHz 100% stable!!!

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=364684


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magnus* 
I have got my E6600 (B2) running at 3.6GHz @ 1.58125v







. The Extreme Spirit NB and Sb coolers are doing a great job.

Dude that's a lot of voltage. I wouldn't keep it there for long.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magnus* 
I have got my E6600 (B2) running at 3.6GHz @ 1.58125v







. The Extreme Spirit NB and Sb coolers are doing a great job.

You're going to kill your CPU with that much voltage. Intel doesn't recommend ever going over 1.55v.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magnus* 
I have got my E6600 (B2) running at 3.6GHz @ 1.58125v







. The Extreme Spirit NB and Sb coolers are doing a great job.

Impressive results. Don't worry too much about your voltage, it's your temperatures I'm most concerned about especially with the summer weather. Try shooting for 3.75Ghz.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMD+nVidia* 







Awsome here ya go! And how about having it even higher!







I'm at 3.6GHz 100% stable!!!

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=364684

Rep +1

Have you done any kind of modifications to the motherboard, such as the memory vdroop mod? From looking at your CPU's VID I'm beginning to think that it may be a key factor in Quad clocking potential on this board.


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
Rep +1

Have you done any kind of modifications to the motherboard, such as the memory vdroop mod? From looking at your CPU's VID I'm beginning to think that it may be a key factor in Quad clocking potential on this board.









No mods, all original except for the watercooling!

Those are my thoughts also... I'll be getting a Q6700 in here soon, and I'll throw that in my second board and see its VID, and how high it will go.


----------



## Magnus

@ Blutak_Sux:

With the system-fans at low speed the temp of the NB and SB are in the mid 50s at ambient 20c. Before I installed the Spirits the stockcoolers were above 75c.

@ Stargate and Gonetomorrow:

I'm not keeping the Vcore that high, I just wanted too see how fast my E6600 would go. My 24/7 setting is 3.2GHz @ 1.33V.

@t4ct1c47:

I'm not going to OC the E6600 further. But I am curious how much Vcore you needed to get your E6600 @ 3.75GHz and temp.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magnus* 
@ Stargate and Gonetomorrow:

I'm not keeping the Vcore that high, I just wanted too see how fast my E6600 would go. My 24/7 setting is 3.2GHz @ 1.33V.

Good to hear!


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

^ Stargate, are you using the onboard RAID controller for that configuration? If so, how's performance?


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
^ Stargate, are you using the onboard RAID controller for that configuration? If so, how's performance?

Yes, I am. The difference between 3 and 4 drives is negligible. I have not tested the transfer rates for some time but if I recall correctly it is around 150MB/s sustained.


----------



## thehighlander123

im new to this thread so can any one tell me if they have figured out how to break 1480fsb with quads
thanks


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magnus* 
@t4ct1c47:

I'm not going to OC the E6600 further. But I am curious how much Vcore you needed to get your E6600 @ 3.75GHz and temp.

I had the BIOS option set to 1.6v for the CPU, although this equated to 1.55v real voltage afer vDroop. I did have the E6600 running at 3.75Ghz on a 24/7 basis, although I only had a single 8800GTS at the time and modded my previous Armour Jr by replaceing the side window with a mesh and two 120mm fans. It was impossible for the system to maintain stability at those speeds without those improvements to the airflow. The Northbridge was also ridiuclously high at 1.55v as well.

To anyone who thinks those kind of voltages are dangerous, please bear in mind that I'm currently using the exact same motherboard 12 months later. Like I said before, temperatures are the most dangerous factor when raiseing voltages.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thehighlander123* 
im new to this thread so can any one tell me if they have figured out how to break 1480fsb with quads
thanks

There is no real solution.

The top end for quads on the board is between 3.2 and 3.4 ghz max.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:


Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47* 
I had the BIOS option set to 1.6v for the CPU, although this equated to 1.55v real voltage afer vDroop. I did have the E6600 running at 3.75Ghz on a 24/7 basis, although I only had a single 8800GTS at the time and modded my previous Armour Jr by replaceing the side window with a mesh and two 120mm fans. It was impossible for the system to maintain stability at those speeds without those improvements to the airflow. The Northbridge was also ridiuclously high at 1.55v as well.

To anyone who thinks those kind of voltages are dangerous, please bear in mind that I'm currently using the exact same motherboard 12 months later. Like I said before, temperatures are the most dangerous factor when raiseing voltages.

Not necessarily. Your one case doesn't make the rule. It is more likely do make the exception to the rule.


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stargate125645*


Not necessarily. Your one case doesn't make the rule. It is more likely do make the exception to the rule.


I wouldn't really call it a rule, but I know what you mean. At the end of the day I think it's perfectly fine to throw volts up as long as you pay very close attention to the temperatures, and make the necessary changes to the cooling, along with regular cleaning out as and when necessary to avoid dust clutter. It also helps when you know what you're doing.


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


I wouldn't really call it a rule, but I know what you mean. At the end of the day I think it's perfectly fine to throw volts up as long as you pay very close attention to the temperatures, and make the necessary changes to the cooling, along with regular cleaning out as and when necessary to avoid dust clutter. It also helps when you know what you're doing.










But excessive voltge can degrade the chip over time, so although you may not notice any difference now you very well could be diminishing the lifespan of the chip. Now if you don't care what happens to the CPU when you're done with it then whatever, I guess. But for my own peace of mind, I keep things reasonable so that when I sell an older part I know it will work for the new owner just as well as it did for me for a very long time.


----------



## thehighlander123

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


There is no real solution.

The top end for quads on the board is between 3.2 and 3.4 ghz max.


but how come the fsb wont go over 1480 no matter what


----------



## blutak_sux

hi, i had a productive day today, lapped my cpu, installed a thermaltake spirit on my NB, added in a few more fans for good measure and obviously used some new thermal compound coz i like trying new things, (who doesnt eh). 
Anyway, reinstalled it all, got my system up and running, and im at 3.6Ghz now but cant get it stable in orthos? Temps at idle are cpu 35, NB 53, SB 60 but i did have to use some quite high voltages to get it to load windows, currently at NB 1.6V, SB 1.55, and vcore about 1.52. 
Kinda stuck now as dont really know where to go next? Btw im using 4gb ram but unlinked at stock 800mhz, would this effect the stability even if ram isnt stressed?
Thanks!!


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stargate125645*

But excessive voltge can degrade the chip over time, so although you may not notice any difference now you very well could be diminishing the lifespan of the chip. Now if you don't care what happens to the CPU when you're done with it then whatever, I guess. But for my own peace of mind, I keep things reasonable so that when I sell an older part I know it will work for the new owner just as well as it did for me for a very long time.


I've noticed that maximum voltage will always differ from person to person. Even when I had my E6600 overclocked I made sure not to go over the maximum voltage recommended by Intel. Would I go over it with water cooling? Definately not on a 24/7 I assure you, plus I wouldn't want to alter my current chassis as drastically.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thehighlander123*


but how come the fsb wont go over 1480 no matter what



Quote:



Originally Posted by *ericeod*

You will find it difficult to OC on the ASUS 680i motherboard with a quad.

3.2GHz-3.4GHz will probably be your limit. Its not just the FSB Hole at play here, it is the GTL REF voltage. The ASUS 680i motherboards struggle to OC the quad core. The problem is a hardware issue. The ASUS 680i motherboards do not follow the NVIDIA reference design, while they are great overclockers with the dual cores, they are not in any way good overclockers with the quad cores. This is due to the GTL voltage supplied to the CPU. The rev A1 680i boards released by NVIDIA (rebadged by EVGA, XFX and BFG) fixes this issue. Unfortunately ASUS will not do anything about it. So this is a hardware issue that will never be fixed by bios updates.

Here is some documentation:
Vr-Zone A1 revision

There is a way to modify the board to compensate for this:
Vr-Zone Ketsfield mod











Rep +1

Recently I have had my own thoughts that the VID, the default voltage required for the CPU to operate which differs from CPU to CPU, may be a factor as well.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blutak_sux*


Kinda stuck now as dont really know where to go next?


More CPU vCore.

Be sure to check the voltage monitor in your motherboard's BIOS to confirm the real voltage that's running through your CPU after making any changes to the CPU vCore. Also pay close attention to your temperatures when sressing with Prime or Orthos.

Also be very wary when you update BIOS's if you have altered your vCore. Sometimes a BIOS fix may alter the amount of vDroop and you may find that 1.6v really does set 1.6v as opposed to 1.55v.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thehighlander123*


but how come the fsb wont go over 1480 no matter what


at a 9x multi right?

thats 3.3 ghz

like i said thats around the max for a quad.

I had the asus board over 500 FSB with a dual core chip but with the quad chip 370 is about your ceiling.

you might get a slightly higher fsb if you drop the multi but there is no real point.


----------



## blutak_sux

any help anyone?


----------



## stargate125645

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blutak_sux*


any help anyone?


Your multiplier is low since you are on an E6400, so I wouldn't expect much more out of it than you have.


----------



## thehighlander123

my cpu has an 8x multiplier its an x3210 (2.13 ghz xeon quad)


----------



## thehighlander123

and thanks t4ct1c47 for the quote im really thinking of doing the mod
but how would i go about getting the stuff needed


----------



## blutak_sux

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thehighlander123*


my cpu has an 8x multiplier its an x3210 (2.13 ghz xeon quad)


how far an overclock did you get? Im still tryin to get 3.6 stable! too much effort!


----------



## thehighlander123

i cant get more than 2.9


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Hmm would switching to a P5K-E be a good option?


----------



## thehighlander123

id love too =]


----------



## guppanu

Great Guide, it's kind of my bible








I dunno how/or even if I can to give rep to author


----------



## jonbelfast

Hi everyone, need a little advice. I have just been given a P5N32-E sli mobo that has never been used.Still in box. It has Bios 0602 on it. So i need to do a bios update. My son has a computer with an E4300 cpu in it. I was on the asus web site and it does not have this cpu on the compatability chart. But it does have the E4400 which is compatible with bios 0602. Has anyone any idea if i can use an E4300 cpu to flash to a newer bios ?. Any advice would be great.


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jonbelfast*


Hi everyone, need a little advice. I have just been given a P5N32-E sli mobo that has never been used.Still in box. It has Bios 0602 on it. So i need to do a bios update. My son has a computer with an E4300 cpu in it. I was on the asus web site and it does not have this cpu on the compatability chart. But it does have the E4400 which is compatible with bios 0602. Has anyone any idea if i can use an E4300 cpu to flash to a newer bios ?. Any advice would be great.


Yeah you should be able to do that no problem!


----------



## jonbelfast

Thank you for the Quick reply







will give it a go.


----------



## thehighlander123

yeah my cpu (xeon x3210) still isnt on the compatibility list and it works fine it just doesnt overclock to well, tee hee


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thehighlander123* 
tee hee


----------



## thehighlander123

i didnt think it was that apauling


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thehighlander123* 
i didnt think it was that apauling

No, just kinda gay!


----------



## mica3speedy

well I think my lan ports tooks a crap







. When I plug the ethernet cable into them they say "unidentified network" . I've tried various drivers, ect. When I plug in my usb ethernet adaptor that works, no problems. I had this happen before, and a bios update fixed it going from 1403 to 1404, but I can't do another bios update. Any suggestions?
Windows can't repair it, ect.


----------



## mica3speedy

well found out the issue, sort of. I removed my usb devices and my ethernet ports started to work, so it may be one of my usb devices that is causing the issue







. Has anyone see this before?


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


well found out the issue, sort of. I removed my usb devices and my ethernet ports started to work, so it may be one of my usb devices that is causing the issue







. Has anyone see this before?


Yes I have. I'm currently experiencing the same problem w/ my Vista Ultimate, however they just randomly started working again. You mentioning something about USB ports reminds me that I recently redid my wires, which included the USB ports. I shall look into this.


----------



## mica3speedy

the reason I thought of the usb ports is that the ethernet ports are all part of the usb ports; by removing the usb devices I was able to get the ethernet ports working again.


----------



## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


the reason I thought of the usb ports is that the ethernet ports are all part of the usb ports; by removing the usb devices I was able to get the ethernet ports working again.


You just need to find the port that ur network driver is trying to use. Sometimes ports go bad too. I have a SATA port that doesn't work.


----------



## mica3speedy

well both ports work, but I think when I use say port 1, and use both usb ports that are part of the same block it goes out. By taking the usb devices out, the ethernet port will work again. Never had this issue until the 1403 bios. I thought 1404 fixed it, but it doesn't look that way. I now have the usb devices plugged into the usb pci slot.


----------



## AkiraX123

hey guys - still looking for an overclock profile for a e6750 on my p5n32-e...I've managed to get it stable @ 3.2ghz but i want to try and push the voltages down a little, as the chip still manages to get up to 65C with my zalman 9700!!
1.42 vcore
1.87 mem
1.24 ht
1.37 nb
1.52 sb
1.5 vtt
(these voltages are all according to the p5n32 hardware monitor).
is anyone able to get 3.2 stable @ lower voltages?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AkiraX123*


hey guys - still looking for an overclock profile for a e6750 on my p5n32-e...I've managed to get it stable @ 3.2ghz but i want to try and push the voltages down a little, as the chip still manages to get up to 65C with my zalman 9700!!
1.42 vcore
1.87 mem
1.24 ht
1.37 nb
1.52 sb
1.5 vtt
(these voltages are all according to the p5n32 hardware monitor).
is anyone able to get 3.2 stable @ lower voltages?


You're about where I am on my P5N32-E/E6750 with Zalman 9700. (Specs are in my profile as "My Wife's System"). I am running at 3.4 at 1.45v because case circulation is poor and I'm getting about the same temperatures as you (maybe a little lower; low sixties).

The only thing I have a bit different is 1.4v on the NB and a Spirit II for extra cooling. It comes highly recommended.

My E6750 needs a lot of volts on this board. It's not just me, either. Others running it or the E6850 need about 0.1v more than what others are reporting. Since I'm running at slightly higher vCore than you at lower temperatures, I would look closely at case circulation. Also, do you have the Zalman at 100% fan? Even at 100%, it performs much better with some strong pull exhaust on the rear case.


----------



## AkiraX123

thanks for the reply!! i'd be inclined to say that maybe my case circulation could be better...the zalman has a 120mm fan mounted directly behind it though. what program /s are you using to measure your results? I'm using coretemp and prime95.. coretemp measures tjunction is that correct? if i've been reading correctly, the delta between tcase and tjunction is about 10C, which would make my tcase about 55C rather than the 65C that i reported. any thoughts?

i also thought i read that silicon begins to degrade at 65C. should I aim for keeping all temps, including tjunction, below 65C? I'd like to keep this 6750 for a good long time!


----------



## AkiraX123

oh, one more thing to add...i've been oc'ing this chip in sync mode. if i switched to "unlinked" do you think there is a chance that i could get stable at slightly lower voltages vs. sync mode?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

UNLINKED is the desired state. I have never run in SYNC mode. Once you've set your FSB, you should manually calculate the divider as a function of your desired RAM speed. Therefore, if your target OC is 3.4, you can calculate RAM speed at, for example, 1022 for 6:5, 850 for 1:1, 1133 for 4:3, and so on. Even if you want to run synchronously (1:1), you should do so UNLINKED with the appropriate values manually entered. Whether this will actually affect your performance or stability is debatable, but I have seen those who claim it does. In general, it is also a good practice. Sometimes the BIOS is not as clever as you. I keep a calculator by my keyboard for this very purpose.

I use Everest to measure temperatures. The E6750 is a 65nm chip, so CoreTemp and Everest read temperatures correctly. It is the 45nm chips for which they are incorrect by 10 degrees.

I have never heard of silicon degrading at 65(c). I have a QX6700 that runs really hot. For it, I only consider temperatures above 75(c) to be unacceptable. The chip continues to run fine, 1.5 years on. Vis-a-vis Tcase and Tjunction, the best is to disregard Tcase altogether. The only temperatures that matter are your internal core temperatures. However, in general practice, I think keeping the E6750 below 65(c) is a very good idea.

Incidentally, I also have a 120mm mounted behind the Zalman. It sucks (both literally and figuratively). The Zalman fan is weak. Unless you have some good intake from somewhere else, it's almost just there for looks. I am very upset with my wife's case, and it is also the reason why I'm running only at 3.4. I am waiting for a good case to go on crazy sale (I have my eye on the CM690: some extra 120s on that case make it a great performer for the $).

Hope it helps. Good luck.


----------



## AkiraX123

hey thanks man i will try unlinked.


----------



## Bar_Rat

Hey guys

Just wanna know what BIOS is currently the best for tthis motherboard?


----------



## AkiraX123

65nm chips seem to oc well with 1203-1205 bios - 45nm needs the newer 1405 bios


----------



## Marv74br

Hi, guys! I just registered for this forum after finding this thread on google...

I have the PC on the signature, and I'm a total NEWBIE on Overclocking... if anyone can help me on tweaking this machine a little bit... I've run several benchs on it and I feel it's very, very slow for the parts I've put on it... any 'Overclock 101' on P5N32-E + Q6600 + DDR2/800 + 8800GTS(92) around here?

Thanks in advance...


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Marv74br* 
Hi, guys! I just registered for this forum after finding this thread on google...

I have the PC on the signature, and I'm a total NEWBIE on Overclocking... if anyone can help me on tweaking this machine a little bit... I've run several benchs on it and I feel it's very, very slow for the parts I've put on it... any 'Overclock 101' on P5N32-E + Q6600 + DDR2/800 + 8800GTS(92) around here?

Thanks in advance...

Hi, and welcome.









It would be a lot easier if you read the first page of this thread and then posted your specific questions. Robilar did a great job of turning the first post into an 'Overclock 101' for this board. Unfortunately, a lot of Q6600 owners jumped ship because it's not the ideal board for quad OC, but you should get to 3.2-3.4 with no problems.

Incidentally, you might want to post your specs HERE.


----------



## Marv74br

Thanks for the reply...

I read the first 3 pages of the thread, tried a few things that I found there, but then my PC simply won't start... black screen, then three long beeps, I got to open it up and reset the cmos...









I don't want anythin' that large, 3.0 is good enough, I don't have watercooling...


----------



## AMD+nVidia

Ok, I'm looking at other boards now, I'm about done with this one. I've broken it somehow and am having intermittent problems with it.


----------



## Kinyin

I had to RMA my original board and the new one was flashed to the newest BIOS available. Using this, I was able to achieve a 1536 FSB with my E6600 (3456MHz). This is with a 1.48750 VCore and the other numbers listed in this guide for everything else. In the past, I was able to get past 3.4GHz, I even remember being able to break 3.6, but not with this board/BIOS combination.

I wanted to ask what is considered the best OC BIOS for the P5N32-E. Not that my current OC is bad by any means. A 1GHz OC that idles at 26C is wonderful


----------



## mica3speedy

for the 65nm dual cores, the 1203 bios is the best oc bios available







. For us of those that have the 45nm dual cores, the 1404 is the best. But watch out for those fsb holes







. Think I found mine at 450 fsb (1800 qdr) . So I couldn't even boot into windows even at 1.35 vcore. By lowering my multi to 8.5, and upping fsb to 475, I'm now typing this and running orthos. Hopefully it will last 24hrs


----------



## Robilar

The highest I was able to reach with an E6850 and the older X6800 dual core was 534 FSB. That was with active cooling on both the nb and sb.

Never got to try the board with newer 45nm chips though I would assume similar FSB would be attainable.


----------



## mica3speedy

no luck with the lower multi and higher fsb either







. Maybe it's something else, or am I stuck? I have vcore at 1.35v and that's not going higher. The rest are:

NB: 1.4v
SB: 1.5v
1.2ht: 1.3v
cpu vtt: 1.55v
ddr2 references are set to auto (does anybody know what those do?)


----------



## keywerdaohell

Has anyone used the digital sound? I am trying to troubleshoot mine with the optical output. I remember when I originally got it the connectors on it were bent slight off the pcb and I was able to just push it back in. I have the setting in the bios to 'Auto" and the soundmax control panel doesn't have the digital output disabled. I am using a new receiver that I am pretty sure I have set up correctly to receive the output from my computer. Anyone have any ideas of how to easily troubleshoot this? I'm running Win XP 32 bit.


----------



## Marv74br

my PC simply wont accept any OC, I only managed to set 5-5-5-15 on the RAMs, all else I try to set manually on the BIOS, I press F10 and the computer either won't boot, or boot and then when I check on CPUz it's back to defaults... what could that be?


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


no luck with the lower multi and higher fsb either







. Maybe it's something else, or am I stuck? I have vcore at 1.35v and that's not going higher. The rest are:

NB: 1.4v
SB: 1.5v
1.2ht: 1.3v
cpu vtt: 1.55v
ddr2 references are set to auto (does anybody know what those do?)


Your Northbridge voltage is too low, start raiseing it.


----------



## mica3speedy

thanks for the input







. How much voltage do you think I would need for 450+ fsb?


----------



## Heavy Light 117

Quote:



Originally Posted by *keywerdaohell*


Has anyone used the digital sound? I am trying to troubleshoot mine with the optical output. I remember when I originally got it the connectors on it were bent slight off the pcb and I was able to just push it back in. I have the setting in the bios to 'Auto" and the soundmax control panel doesn't have the digital output disabled. I am using a new receiver that I am pretty sure I have set up correctly to receive the output from my computer. Anyone have any ideas of how to easily troubleshoot this? I'm running Win XP 32 bit.


I tried to once when i first got it...haven't tried since (think my sound system was the culprit)... goodluck though


----------



## sdk

Ok guys maybe you are able to help me out.

When I first got the board there were some obvious issues. Any mhz above the 800mhz for memory caused freezes etc. However this was solved by manually putting in 2.2 volt as noted on my memory (1066 mhz)

I did a 3dmark on 3.0 Ghz (1500 fsb) and 3.8 Ghz (1900 FSB highest I ever went). After that I used 3.0 ghz and 3.2 for normal use since that causes all values to be green in pc probe.

Latest months I did not game a lot and just got new harddrives. So I tried nvidia control panel and for the first time I could set fsb in windows without my system freezing (caused by the undervolting of the memory). I decided to stick with 2800 Mhz instead of 3000.

However I just got a new 22inch display andI need the higher cpu Ghz once again. So I changed fsb back to 1500/1600.
All looked fine untill I started to play.
Racedriver Grid shows slowdowns @ 3 ghz, like 10 seconds it runs fine then a 2 second slowdown (fps the same) then it runs again and warps @ 3.2 ghz.
Unreal 3 shows 103 FPS @ 2.8 Ghz and 87 fps @ 3.2 Ghz (changed fsb with nvidia)

Looks like something is wrong.

A few things have changed:
I updated bios 1103 to 1205 to get a better "q-fan"
I recently found out about the sli ready EXPERT setting so that I get the nice timings. It really helps to get the ideal timings.
Change in FSB to Memory ratio (1400 fsb with around 1000 memory instead of the lower ratio).
I changed memory from slot 1,3 to 2,4 since I was not sure the dual data rate was enabled. I somewhere read that slot 1,3 is 1 T and slot 2,4 is 2T. So i looked it up and changed memory to slot 2,4.

I already put memory to synced mode to make sure the memory is not getting into trouble (so it's at 750-850 mhz isntead of 1066)

Specs
Asus p5n32-e sli
E6750 1333mhz
2x 1024mb Kingston hyperx KHX8500 2GN (nvidia ready)
750W powersupply
8800GTS 640mb.

Bios:
voltages all auto (used to work fine!) exept memory-->2.200
fsb 1400 ATM goal back to 1600
memory atm linked with synced ratio, normal 3:2 or 5:4 linked.
cpu temp <30 degrees with 2.8 ghz

A lot of stuff is disabled but spreadspectrum control isnt. I think I saw virtualization also on but that didnt change at all.

Also *NB core is now at 1.52* under AUTO isnt that high for 1400 fsb???

Again: I got to 3.8 Ghz (1900 FSB) without problems 4 months ago!

ps nvidia seems to reset the FSB when I change it in the bios how do I disable that...


----------



## johnny9794

Might be RMA'ing my board or just throwing it out, went into bios, set bios to bios defaults, rebooted, I Gotzz no screen, ablinking greenlight on my monitor, all the fans, hdd, even the green power LED on the board turns on, I turned main power off, unplugged psu, pulled the mobo battery out and set clrtc to 2 and 3 for an hour, tried one stick of my ram in all 4 different slots vice versa with the other stick of ram. put battery back in, set clrtc back to 1 and 2, plugged psu power cord back in start the pc up and the same,no screen,no blinking of hdd led on the case. the whole reason of setting bios to defaults was to update to 1205 to use my razor copperhead mouse... right after setting to defaults, pc booted up to the AI lifestyle boot wallpaper and then graphics went all nuts, it restarted back up with no screen.

I just cannot get it to post.


----------



## mica3speedy

if you are using your razor mouse, use another mouse until you update the bios to 1205 or later.


----------



## johnny9794

I have a buddy coming by today with 2 sticks of his ddr2, ima slap them in and see if it boots so i can set the correct voltage for my ballistix ect. so i have read that might fix my problem and hopefully it will work.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
if you are using your razor mouse, use another mouse until you update the bios to 1205 or later.

it will not post period, right after setting bios defaults I my fault forgot to go directly back into bios to set ram voltage ekkk...


----------



## itzsteven

I need help with my SupremeFX card. I have a 5.1 speakers system, I plug it in and ran the test on the sound config, everything is working fine. When I try to play the music, only the front speakers are playing, none of the other one will work. I already downloaded and upgraded the newest patch for the sound card already. Any idea what's going on??


----------



## mica3speedy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *johnny9794* 
I have a buddy coming by today with 2 sticks of his ddr2, ima slap them in and see if it boots so i can set the correct voltage for my ballistix ect. so i have read that might fix my problem and hopefully it will work.

it will not post period, right after setting bios defaults I my fault forgot to go directly back into bios to set ram voltage ekkk...

unplug the razor, razor usb devices are known to cause posting problems with the 1203 bios. If you are still unable to post, then reset the cmos


----------



## shnoops

Quote:


Originally Posted by *itzsteven* 
I need help with my SupremeFX card. I have a 5.1 speakers system, I plug it in and ran the test on the sound config, everything is working fine. When I try to play the music, only the front speakers are playing, none of the other one will work. I already downloaded and upgraded the newest patch for the sound card already. Any idea what's going on??

I believe its a problem with windows 64 bit. I have teh exact same problem, ive tried every program to get it to use 5.1 Only thing that seems capable of using it is the damn control panel







. Really its just not a good card and should look to get a cheap turtle beach sound card. Dont go with a cheap creative one, even more problems with 64 bit vista their.


----------



## Agnostik888

Picking up my second Spirit II for SB and then once I have those gonna hit the OC. Been trying to gather any notes and knowledge I can from this thread but it has gotten rather large. I am assuming the first post is still the basic overall idea?

If anyone has any tips for my setup for OC, let me know! =) I am aiming for 3.4GHz but once i get there if temps look good might try to push 3.6 if possible.

Thanks.


----------



## burtethead

Hey everyone, i probably should post first in the introductions or whatever, but since this is really the only thread I have read extensively, i wanted my first post here. First off, robilar is the man, etc, ive learned more on this thread than in any class. thanks to everyone. So basically, I was going just fine until I decided to upgrade to an e8400 (from an e6600) before really starting to OC. I put in the chip and started up, and it notified me that my cpu had been changed so i went into bios. After making no changes whatsoever, I save and exit... only to be greeted by the ol' 'bios checksum error', and that it couldnt detect a keyboard. So i clear the CMOS, and it starts up again, gets into bios again, and upon save and exit, the same thing happens. So i am currently running off defaults, which is certainly stable, but changing any bios settings is out of the question. Is my CMOS battery weak or something? I tested 3.1v which should be good enough. Is it a product of BIOS 1404? Before this i was running 602 since i built the thing last december. On a side note, if i run nTune (or even just nvidia control panel) i instantly get a BSOD naming nvoclk64.sys as the culprit. any clues?


----------



## mica3speedy

so you are using bios 1404? I would double check all of your voltages, ram, ect. As for the nvoclk64.sys problem, I suggest uninstalling ntune for the time being. Find a newer version if possible, and install that.


----------



## burtethead

thanks! Thats a good idea about ntune, i did just update my forceware drivers. but thats not the important part, the fact that i cant change any of my bios settings is the problem. i will check all the settings, but they are all on default, which should be fine (except the ram which is undervolted by this board). let me know if anyone else has any ideas.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


so you are using bios 1404? I would double check all of your voltages, ram, ect. As for the nvoclk64.sys problem, I suggest uninstalling ntune for the time being. Find a newer version if possible, and install that.


Most people agree that nTune is absolute rubbish. My recommendation is to not install it ever. There are plenty of freeware tools available that do what it does far better.


----------



## barrysgoods

I am having trouble overclocking my cpu, I have all the volts set my vcore is at 1.35, my ram is unlinked 5:4 ratio. I am not sure what I am doing wrong, any help would be appreciated.


----------



## burtethead

alright, ntune is gone. but that wasnt the point. does anyone have any idea why my 1404 bios always comes up with a 'bios checksum error' and wont boot any time i save and exit from the bios? even when i havent made any changes? if i cant change bios settings i can kiss my dreams of oc'ing goodbye, so help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:


Originally Posted by *burtethead* 
alright, ntune is gone. but that wasnt the point. does anyone have any idea why my 1404 bios always comes up with a 'bios checksum error' and wont boot any time i save and exit from the bios? even when i havent made any changes? if i cant change bios settings i can kiss my dreams of oc'ing goodbye, so help would be greatly appreciated.

Have you tried reflashing?


----------



## Metal425

Does this board have problems with 2x2GB PC-8500 Ram? Because I plan on picking some up tonight @ the egg.


----------



## shnoops

Hey anyone have aftermarket cooling on their

asus p5n32-e sli 680i board?

I Need to RMA my board and am looking to buy the stock cooling heatsinks as mine are lost....


----------



## vietdood

Hi all. New to the forum and new to overclocking. I'm looking for some advice on overvoltage, cpu stability, and core temperature. Right now my cpu is stable at 2.93ghz (9x325) with all voltage settings on auto except for memory at 2.2v. At 3.0ghz I get an error on one of the cores on Prime after 2 minutes.

So my question is what voltages should everything be set at for my cpu to run at 3.0ghz? Also will manually setting my voltages decrease cpu core temps?

*edit*
okay so i used the voltages listed on the first page then i started to mess around with the vcore voltage. currently i have it set at 1.35v and i'm not getting any errors in prime95. however, my chip is running at 75C on the 8k test and once i saw that i stopped the testing. is it safe at that temperature? and is there anyway to bring down the temperature by changing the vcore but still have it stable at 3.0ghz?


----------



## Agnostik888

Anyone had any issues with BIOS 1404? I was running 1205 and noticed that it was no lonjger listed on the asus site so figured that meant it was bad. Upgraded to 1404 and first off, I had to clear the cmos to get it to even boot right after flashing. Secondly, first time I applied my settings i got some error and it failed post, but went into setup, changed nothing and exited and just F1'ed and now it seems to post fine.

However, the FSB & ram screen is a bit glitchy. When you set to unlinked and arrow down the ratio thing flases from grey to blue and you can change it. I dunno if that is right.....

Just wondering if anyone else has noticed this or if I need to reflash....

Thanks


----------



## t4ct1c47

I've noticed sporadic issues with the 1404 BIOS where FSB settings revert to default after I make changes and then save and exit. I've found that making a new save of my settings to the onboard overclocking profiles of the BIOS and then loading it before exiting keeps any changes I make. Other than that the 1404 seems no different than the 1203 when it comes to Quad clocking potential. However, my current Q6600 does have a VID of 1.3250v which may be the biggest limiting factor.


----------



## xc90

hi everybody
can anyone tell me please here can i download the 1203 and the 1205 bios??
doesn't seen to be any more on the ftp of asus?!?!?!
Thanks

P.S. Another question, is it possible to use bios from striker on this board with the same chipset???


----------



## alexisd

Let's see if i can post the bios for you.PM,Robilat to see if he have a save the 1203 bios.I can't find mine sorry.Still looking.


----------



## Robilar

1203?

I have it somewhere on a disk.

XC90, PM me when you get a sec and send me an e-mail address. Its small enough that I can email it directly to you.


----------



## Magnus

Bios 1203 is here on Overclock.net

I have downloaded that Bios zip file its working perfectly.


----------



## Robilar

I emailed it to you as well.


----------



## xc90

thanks robilar for the 1203, now i will test the oc
regards


----------



## jul3z

I just upgraded from Vista32 to Vista64, and when i reapply my oc, I get a HDD boot disk error. Any ideas what it could be?


----------



## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vietdood*


Hi all. New to the forum and new to overclocking. I'm looking for some advice on overvoltage, cpu stability, and core temperature. Right now my cpu is stable at 2.93ghz (9x325) with all voltage settings on auto except for memory at 2.2v. At 3.0ghz I get an error on one of the cores on Prime after 2 minutes.

So my question is what voltages should everything be set at for my cpu to run at 3.0ghz? Also will manually setting my voltages decrease cpu core temps?

*edit*
okay so i used the voltages listed on the first page then i started to mess around with the vcore voltage. currently i have it set at 1.35v and i'm not getting any errors in prime95. however, my chip is running at 75C on the 8k test and once i saw that i stopped the testing. is it safe at that temperature? and is there anyway to bring down the temperature by changing the vcore but still have it stable at 3.0ghz?


75c is too hot. Drop that voltage. You need better cooling if you are running that hot.

As far as voltages go, it's random for everyone. Some only need 1.35 vcore for 400FSB and some need a lot less. You just have to test your CPU out. For the other voltages Robilar has those down pretty well for the board. Keep your NB at 1.4 and SB at 1.5 because the board likes hi multis. In order to up the NB and SB you need aftermarket cooling.


----------



## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


I emailed it to you as well.


Is the link on the first page of this thread yet?









Congrats on the admin position Rob!!! Bout time.


----------



## Robilar

Actually, if you check the link to the asus FTP site on the first post of this thread, the 1203 bios is there as well.


----------



## johnny9794

here is 1203 and 1205, slapped it on my google page thing for ya if you have not already grabbed it.

http://johnny9794.googlepages.com/1203.zip
http://johnny9794.googlepages.com/1205.zip


----------



## xc90

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny9794*


here is 1203 and 1205, slapped it on my google page thing for ya if you have not already grabbed it.

http://johnny9794.googlepages.com/1203.zip
http://johnny9794.googlepages.com/1205.zip


many thanks johnny9794, but for i cant test the oc, because here a live is very hot the current temp is about 30 c, well i must wait for the winter, but in any case i already have the bios for the 65nm.
regards


----------



## Makav3li

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnny9794*


here is 1203 and 1205, slapped it on my google page thing for ya if you have not already grabbed it.

http://johnny9794.googlepages.com/1203.zip
http://johnny9794.googlepages.com/1205.zip


Is there a definitive answer as to which of these is actually better for ocing 65nm? Or is the ONLY difference added support for razor products?


----------



## Robilar

1203 is better. be aware that you will not likely exceed 3.2 or 3.3 regardless. Around 370 FSB is about the highest your board can take a quad.


----------



## Makav3li

is 1203 better for my Q6600 than 1404?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I would go with 1203 for anything that's not a Wolfdale. It's what is running my E6750. I never tested 1404 on my quad, but 1203 is much better than 1302, and AFAIK, 14xx is just adds Wolfdale support.


----------



## novastar

can some one tell me the max temp for C2D E6420

thanks for your help


----------



## not quite there yet

Hi guys
Ive finally got my quad to go to 3.1Ghz on a P5N E SLI and run stable at stock voltages.
However, when i increase the voltage to try and go a little further, after bootup into windows, CPU-Z and Speedfan report that my voltage is still stock at 1.275v?!
Any ideas what im doing wrong?
If i re-enter bios it hasnt reset the voltage to stock but remains at the value ive entered. IS CPU-Z wrong? 
Im stuck... and im new to this.
Can you advise please?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *not quite there yet*


Hi guys
Ive finally got my quad to go to 3.1Ghz on a P5N E SLI and run stable at stock voltages.
However, when i increase the voltage to try and go a little further, after bootup into windows, CPU-Z and Speedfan report that my voltage is still stock at 1.275v?!
Any ideas what im doing wrong?
If i re-enter bios it hasnt reset the voltage to stock but remains at the value ive entered. IS CPU-Z wrong? 
Im stuck... and im new to this.
Can you advise please?


Hi. You're in the wrong forum. This is the P5N32-E board. The P5N-E board is located HERE. It is possible that you are not accounting for vDroop, the phenomenon of actual reported voltage being less than BIOS-set voltage, especially at load.

Novastar, I would suggest that 65(c) would be a good max-temp to shoot for on your chip.


----------



## novastar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Hi. You're in the wrong forum. This is the P5N32-E board. The P5N-E board is located HERE. It is possible that you are not accounting for vDroop, the phenomenon of actual reported voltage being less than BIOS-set voltage, especially at load.

Novastar, I would suggest that 65(c) would be a good max-temp to shoot for on your chip.

thanks for that


----------



## Kimyy

Hello,

I can use some help. I have a Asus P5N32-E SLI board, in combination with a Intel c2d e6850, OCZ nvidia PC6400 SLI ready ram, 700 watt coolermaster realpower power supply, Artic Freeze 7 Pro CPU cooling, Asus EAH 4850 graphicscard.

After installing Windows XP SP2 everythings works fine, I would overclock my cpu. (I know that this cpu runs at 4GHz with no problem (same memory, same cpu cooler, but on a diffirent board).

The maximum stable CPU overclock is 3,30Ghz (normal 3Ghz).

I've been searching the web for any solutions, but anything ive treid didn't work.









I've treid bios 1103 and 1404, I treid many diffirent settings in the bios (found on the web, and also on the XtremeSystems forum: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...us+p5n32-e+sli)
I treid diffirent kinds of memory modules, a part, and in dual mode.

Sometimes I came into Windows XP, but it freeze after 5 seconds, or a bit longer.

But nothing will do.

Is there anything that could make my Intel c2d e6850 run on 4Ghz?

Thanks!


----------



## Robilar

Please fill out your system specs in User CP.

Welcome to Overclock.net









Can I ask what you are running the chip at (or attempting to)?

9x 445 for example?


----------



## rohan800

Hey Overclock.net
Im new just signed up
going to lap my cpu and heatsink this w.e and want to overclock to 3ghz
what do i need (BIOS) and how do i do it?? (noob with overclocking)
Thanks








Rohan800


----------



## rohan800

Forgot to say that also i read that chipsets get really hot whats a good option without taking heatpiping off?


----------



## mica3speedy

well you can remove the stock heat pipes off, then apply some as5. That will help some with the temps.


----------



## rohan800

didnt really wanna take the heatpiping off :S
maybe mount 40mm fans on both north and south??


----------



## v!p3r^

Great board, i advise get it







proud user of it!


----------



## rohan800

NEED HELP
sorry but lapping cpu and h/s and need to know what is best bios.
and what do you guys use as setup (3ghz) as overclock like fsb etc.
Thanks a million


----------



## Ronll

hi , i own this board , how would it be with two 9800+ , how will it stand ageinst 790 or 780


----------



## Robilar

it should compare fine as long as you aren't trying to compare cpu overclocks.

the board does well with dual core chips but quad overclock far better on a 780i or 790i board.

from an SLI perspective, it will be fine.


----------



## Nisei

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rohan800*


NEED HELP
sorry but lapping cpu and h/s and need to know what is best bios.
and what do you guys use as setup (3ghz) as overclock like fsb etc.
Thanks a million


For overclocking the Q6600 to 3Ghz you don't need to lap.
I use bios 1203 (don't know if 1404 would work).
My settings: 1.3V vCore, FSB memory speed unlinked, FSB 1333 (9x1333=12000/4=3GHz), memory speed 800mHz, timing 5.4.4.15 (last 2 depend on the memory you're using). You should try to gradually increase your FSB from the standard 1066 to 1333 and check stability and temperatures. And DON'T leave vCore voltage setting set to Auto because it can raise the voltage way too high that way. Check previous posts in this thread for more detailed info.


----------



## jul3z

On my q6600 G0 i have the latest bios version. Also, how much voltage you use is relative to the VID of your chip. My chip has a VID of 1.2000, and i have it running stable at 3.0Ghz @ 1.152 volts after vdroop.

Here is a pic of how mines set up.










Also, with this board, you want to make sure that you set the Ram VDIMM to what is recommended by your ram mfg. My bios originally set mine to 1.9, while my chips require 2.2... so you want to be careful. Also, with the q6600 G0, you don't want to run over 70C, as that will degrade the life of your chip. Mine is at about 55C max load, and thats with crappy ASUS hsf.

Your best bet is to bump your fsb in increments of 20 or so from stock, and do that till it won't boot/stay stable. Then add one bump of the vcore.


----------



## menko2

im about to upgrade from a E6600 at 3,2ghz to a E8600 in my P5N32-E.

which bios do you recomend for this?? is it Penryn supported in this board??

will i see any improvements in games with the new processor?? im upgrading too the 8800gtx for a 4870 GX2 or a GTX 280. the SSD will wait until christmass i think.

any advice??


----------



## pgwalker73

I have had a persistent issue with booting my machine. This has happened since I got the machine new. It happens perhaps once every 10-15 startups.

I have a Q6700 OC'd to 3.2 GHz (via 1280fsb). I am using bios 1203 on the P5n32-e. The OC seems stable under prime, etc.

The issue started while I had some corsair memory (4 1 GB sticks). The computer would power up but not hit the post screen. The monitor would not get a signal. After changing some of the memory timings, the problem seemed to have vanished for some months. I had been running the memory at a 3:2 ratio which put them at around 850mhz. This and whatever timing changes (I set to the rated timings and voltage) seemed to resolve this problem. However, I have installed new memory modules with different timings. Two 2gb OCZ Reaper sticks (corsair has been removed) and the problem is back. I have set the timings to the rated spec for these 4-4-4-15, at 800mhz (unlinked, I also tried linked at 3:2 since that worked on the Corsairs but to no avail) and the rated voltage of 2.1v. I also tried at one bump up and one bump down from 2.1v. I also note, that after I reset and the post screen does appear (after one of the non-boot incidents) it shows the memory timing is now 5-5-5-18 - but when you enter setup it shows the 4-4-4-15 I set in bios. Is this a timing/mhz setting issue with the memory? Clearly something is getting reset after one of these boot failures due to it showing a different timing setting after it happens. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Robilar

Its definitely a memory issue. The board is not fond of 4 gb of ram in 4x1 gb sticks.

you might want to try and sell your ram and pick up a set of 2x2 gb


----------



## pgwalker73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Its definitely a memory issue. The board is not fond of 4 gb of ram in 4x1 gb sticks.

you might want to try and sell your ram and pick up a set of 2x2 gb


That is what I have done, the OCZ is (2) 2 GB sticks. It did not resolve the issue. I have the new sticks set at 1T, would switching to 2T possibly resolve this?


----------



## Robilar

possibly. most ram works fine with 1T but the bigger sticks may have an issue.

can't hurt to try it.


----------



## Pyr0

just noticed a 1503 bios on the ftp 
ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...20SLI/1503.zip

but nothing mentioned on the asus site *shrug*
http://support.asus.com/download/dow...=P5N32-E%20SLI


----------



## jul3z

Well, for the striker there is a 1504 bios. Possibly related?


----------



## menko2

any help with my post?? ==

"im about to upgrade from a E6600 at 3,2ghz to a E8600 in my P5N32-E.

which bios do you recomend for this?? is it Penryn supported in this board??

will i see any improvements in games with the new processor?? im upgrading too the 8800gtx for a 4870 GX2 or a GTX 280. the SSD will wait until christmass i think.

any advice??"


----------



## v!p3r^

Im gettin a q6700 in the next few weeks what bios do you guys think i should get?


----------



## Robilar

1303

On this board the best you will reach with a quad is 370 FSB regardless of multi


----------



## franz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pyr0* 
just noticed a 1503 bios on the ftp
ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...20SLI/1503.zip

but nothing mentioned on the asus site *shrug*
http://support.asus.com/download/dow...=P5N32-E%20SLI

Its on the website now(8/8/08).
P5N32-E SLI BIOS 1503
1.Fix CPU Lockfree function might be unable to work properly.
2.Hide CPU Multiplier item for ratio locked CPU.
3.Fix incorrect L2 cache info. Of certain Intel Wolfdare CPU in the BIOS setup.

I am wondering what the second options means. Does that mean you wont be able to lower the multi anymore?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *menko2* 
any help with my post?? ==

"im about to upgrade from a E6600 at 3,2ghz to a E8600 in my P5N32-E.

which bios do you recomend for this?? is it Penryn supported in this board??

will i see any improvements in games with the new processor?? im upgrading too the 8800gtx for a 4870 GX2 or a GTX 280. the SSD will wait until christmass i think.

any advice??"

This board will support Penryn, but only with the latest BIOS. Try either 1404 or 1503(this BIOS is new so I would wait to see if there are any issues first.) According to their website if you get the newer E0 stepping you will have to use the 1503, but if you have an older 8400 or 8500 with C0 stepping 1404 should be fine.


----------



## menko2

thank you franz!!

i am getting a E8600. i know E8400 and 8500 are great value-performance, but i prefer the E8600 with the new stepping to get a high easy OC.

today is my birthday and my present is a new VGA!! i can choose whatever i want until 500Euro.

will it be the E8600 around 4,2ghz enouth for the GTX 280 or 4870X2?? or is it better quad core?? (primerely for games).

not sure either for the graphic card to choose. i have until september to decide.

any suggestions??


----------



## burtethead

so has anyone tried this new bios out yet? im really getting ticked off with 1404, considering its impossible to oc due to this auto reset of my fsb and memory settings everytime i save and quit. im really just looking for a solution to that, so if you know what im talking about then please let me know how to fix it. im hoping this new bios will solve all my problems, but when has that ever been the case?


----------



## burtethead

forgive the long post, but a lot of wierd crap has been happening, and ive been up all night so i might ramble. so i havent been able to oc my 8400 with the 1404 bios because of a bug which constantly resets my fsb and memory settings back to auto. no other settings are reset, except for that section. so i decided to go out on a very thin limb and flash to this new 1503 bios. well! i can tell you that it does work, and is only marginally worse than 1404. now comes the first problem.
1. cpuz, everest, etc, all show that my multiplier is going from 6 to 9 (2000mhz to 3000mhz) which it never did before. i have turned off all the settings, c1e, spectrum control, etc. what could be causing this?

so i try to change some settings in the fsb and memory tab, unlinked, putting my mem to 800 mhz and fsb stays at 1333. upon restart, i find that it has reverted to auto. AGAIN! 1404 all over again. i remember reading that if it updates the ROMSIP it supposedly changes, but you have to make a large chage to jolt it into doing so. so i put fsb to 1600 and ram to 800 on linked and sync mode. when i restart, i find that the settings stayed! they didnt revert to auto, but since i changed nothing else it was unstable. that didnt solve the problem, as when i put the fsb back to 1333 and keep the mem at 800, it reverts back to auto upon restart. ARGH!! so i try a tiny oc, unlinked, fsb 1352 (3042 mhz) and ram 799 mhz. it starts in safe mode, and cpuz and everest list the speed correctly at 3042. i restart out of safe mode, seems stableish, but cpuz and everest report it at 1333 and 3000 mhz again!! what?? when i run orthos in the cpu speed it briefly flashes 3042 mhz and 1352 fsb, then goes to 3000 mhz.
problem 2: normal windows startup changes fsb, but the memory stayed at 799 mhz.
is cpuz reading the fsb wrong?? what is happening? another case of crap bios???

im going to bed. please help me out here. thanks for reading!


----------



## menko2

wow man, im buying the E8600 to replace my E6600 at 3,2GHZ to get some juice for the 4870X2 (i heard i need a powerfull CPU to run in 1920x1080 resolution), but now i read all this about bios..... how many problems for Penryn support!!


----------



## KAKTUSkiller

Hi all!

Yesterday i oced my cpu to 3ghz 1.3 Vcore. This morning hasn't posted. So i cleared the cmos and the system started. But now, I can't get 3 Ghz anymore.

Little help pls


----------



## KAKTUSkiller

Lol i haven't this problem again. I don't know why. 
I overclocked my cpu to 3200 Mhz it's stable, but i have many crc errors from the ide devices. Does anyone know why ?


----------



## ivanov3333

How to overclock with P5N32-E SLI PLUS? I'm trying to set the multiplayer in bios to 11-12, but everythime i save settings the cpu is at stock 9x and 2400mhz. Tell me how to overclock it to 3.0ghz


----------



## KAKTUSkiller

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ivanov3333*


How to overclock with P5N32-E SLI PLUS? I'm trying to set the multiplayer in bios to 11-12, but everythime i save settings the cpu is at stock 9x and 2400mhz. Tell me how to overclock it to 3.0ghz


The Q6600 has a max multiplicator of 9. Change the fsb frequency for overclocking.


----------



## ivanov3333

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KAKTUSkiller* 
The Q6600 has a max multiplicator of 9. Change the fsb frequency for overclocking.

Yeas, i did it. 333x9


----------



## KAKTUSkiller

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pgwalker73* 
I have had a persistent issue with booting my machine. This has happened since I got the machine new. It happens perhaps once every 10-15 startups.

I have a Q6700 OC'd to 3.2 GHz (via 1280fsb). I am using bios 1203 on the P5n32-e. The OC seems stable under prime, etc.

The issue started while I had some corsair memory (4 1 GB sticks). The computer would power up but not hit the post screen. The monitor would not get a signal. After changing some of the memory timings, the problem seemed to have vanished for some months. I had been running the memory at a 3:2 ratio which put them at around 850mhz. This and whatever timing changes (I set to the rated timings and voltage) seemed to resolve this problem. However, I have installed new memory modules with different timings. Two 2gb OCZ Reaper sticks (corsair has been removed) and the problem is back. I have set the timings to the rated spec for these 4-4-4-15, at 800mhz (unlinked, I also tried linked at 3:2 since that worked on the Corsairs but to no avail) and the rated voltage of 2.1v. I also tried at one bump up and one bump down from 2.1v. I also note, that after I reset and the post screen does appear (after one of the non-boot incidents) it shows the memory timing is now 5-5-5-18 - but when you enter setup it shows the 4-4-4-15 I set in bios. Is this a timing/mhz setting issue with the memory? Clearly something is getting reset after one of these boot failures due to it showing a different timing setting after it happens. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I have the same issue since i oced to 3.2 ghz. The machine power up but no post. I use 4x2gb corsair sticks. But the problem isn't resolved with changing voltages and timings.


----------



## Chickenman

OK - have done a bit more with my mobo/quad since way back when - haven't got any more fsb but have been able to isolate some things and drop voltages that weren't required.

Here is a screenshot of my current 3015 volts etc.

Things to note - CPU voltage is NOT why this board wont post with quads - it's ONLY limitations of the FSB - I have mine set to 1.26 ish. Came to the realisation when I could do 2.7ghz @ 1.1volts.

Things you need - decent north/southbridge cooling and lotsa patience.


----------



## Chickenman

Just a note for all - after I flashed to the 1503 bios I was able to hit 3.8ghz on my Q6600 - rattled off a 18k+ 3dmark but my cooling aint that great :S.










the 1503 bios has made a huge difference - I ran prime for 3 hours @ 3.4ghz last night (425fsbx8) and have booted at 4ghz but I didn't like the temps cos my cooler is average


----------



## Makav3li

Is this repeatable by anyone else? Is the 1503 bios really the fix for quads?


----------



## Chickenman

I hope so - bear in mind that there are massive holes in the fsb and my combination has got me these results - everyone is going to be different.

As long as you got a decent-ish northbridge AND southbridge (mcp) cooler (I use the evercool serpent which was nice and cheap on northbridge and have hacked up a traditional northbridge cooler to fit on with my 280 gtx) I would skip all the middle buggy frequencies and go straight to 1700 in bios with a x7 multi.

My bios volts settings are:
HT:1.25
NB:1.55
SB:1.55
CPUVTT: 1.55 (this used to always have to be low to get 3ghz







)

and my G0 will do 3ghz on 1.25-ish volts (as set in bios).

Will post some pics.


----------



## ivanov3333

Guys, my motherboard P5N32-E SLI PLUS is ****ing with me very hard. I set up the Q6600 at 3.0ghz and manually set the voltage, but everytime when i restart and my windows load, i see the bios is switcing to automatically voltage - 1.360V. Restart again, in bios is the manually speed, but on top of that under Windows the speed is automatically again.

Why is that?


----------



## Chickenman

I had a similar issue with the fsb always going back to auto with the 14XX bios before this one - grab a usb thumbdrive and flash to the 1503 bios.


----------



## burtethead

i have that problem with the fsb resetting, and i have 1503. i dont understand it! in 1404 it resets the fsb every time you save and exit, and i thought 1503 would be the fix, but this is not the case. if anyone knows how to fix this auto reset fsb problem please let me know!!


----------



## Chickenman

Very strange - reset cmos then flash to 1503 again?

Just to annoy you.. I'm benching at 3.8ghz again

03: 57011 @3.8GHZ http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k3=5916812
05: 21949 @3.8GHZ http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm05=4439483


----------



## ivanov3333

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chickenman*


Very strange - reset cmos then flash to 1503 again?

Just to annoy you.. I'm benching at 3.8ghz again

03: 57011 @3.8GHZ http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k3=5916812
05: 21949 @3.8GHZ http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm05=4439483


So i should flash the bios, right?
Or to change the motherboard.


----------



## ivanov3333

i will get another motherboard, thats ****d up


----------



## ady580

Hi, i have updated my motherboard to the latest bios, 1503 and I want to OC my CPU, an Q6600.
So i read a few guides and continued to OC, all i had to do was increase the FSB from 1066 to 1333, as i want it to reach 3.0ghz. Everything looks fine, my ram is running at 800mhz (unlinked of course), but when it loads windows the computer freezes after 1 min...any ideas?
Btw i've tried with the vcore at 1.3 and 1.34 and still the same, even got a bsod one time...
Cooling Thermalright SI-128 SE and Scythe S-FLEX 1600rpm...


----------



## Chickenman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ivanov3333* 
i will get another motherboard, thats ****d up

To be honest - it's only $100 ish for a cheap P45 board.

I was gonna buy one but got lucky when I tried some higher FSB after bios.


----------



## ivanov3333

I was thinkink of getting P35-DS3L. I don't want asus anymore, i don't like this motherboards. I get my first asus /P5N32-E SLI/ and i'm very unsatisfied.


----------



## Beef

Well i followed your steps precisely and i couldnt get a stable performance with more than 2.81 ghz on a q6600 (325fsb) i tried 333 and wouldnt post..
and even then it was iffy... i reduced to 305 fsb for 2.74 ghz. any other recommendations?


----------



## ivanov3333

I have VCORE AND CPU VTT in the bios. I tried a lot of times to change vcore, and nothing-the mobo is aalways to 1.36V. Today i figured out-that voltage in cpuz and other programs is the CPU VTT voltage. I dont know why, but i changed it to 1.25 and cpuz shows me 1.25vcore and the temperature drop down. Why is that? CPU VTT instead of VCORE?


----------



## Chickenman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Beef* 
Well i followed your steps precisely and i couldnt get a stable performance with more than 2.81 ghz on a q6600 (325fsb) i tried 333 and wouldnt post..
and even then it was iffy... i reduced to 305 fsb for 2.74 ghz. any other recommendations?

What bios are you using?

at present there are so many random variations and FSB holes that it's impossible to predict performance from one board to the next.

as long as you have 1503 bios and your volts are

vcore: 1.26-1.35 ish (start higher and work down from there)
HT: 1.25
NB: 1.55
SB: 1.55
CPU VTT: 1.55
Research your memory, make sure you are using the correct volts for it.
I can see no reason for it to not work.

If it still fails â€" set your multiplier to x7 and crank 1600 fsb.

As I said â€" none of this worked without the 1503 bios for me, I am wondering if itâ€™s something to do with the way it updates romsip for certain fsb.


----------



## ivanov3333

oem bios-revision 0501

What i should do?


----------



## Pingu12

on the asus donwload site i can only find the 1104 BIOS as latest?


----------



## ivanov3333

i find 1503. how to install it ?


----------



## Pingu12

I have a P5N32-E Sli Plus and when i search that board on the asus site the latest BIOS is 1104, whereas when i search P5N32-E Sli it comes up with 1503. Will the SLi BIOS work with the SLI plus?

http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?l1...59&modelmenu=1

http://asus.com/products.aspx?l1=3&l...67&modelmenu=1


----------



## ivanov3333

Enter asus website and enter p5n32-e sli plus, it has 1503 bios. download it.


----------



## Pingu12

Nope im still cant find anything above 1104 for P5N32-E Sli Plus.

http://support.asus.com/download/dow...E%20SLI%20Plus


----------



## ivanov3333

Is it that?


----------



## t4ct1c47

The P5N32-E SLi, which this thread is about, and the P5N32-E SLi *Plus*, are two completely different boards with different BIOS's. If you try to flash a P5N32-E Plus board with a P5N32-E BIOS you will bork the board.


----------



## Pingu12

the 1503 bios is for the P5N32 E Sli board not the Plus.


----------



## stefan9

Anybody running ocz reapers pc8500 2x2 gig kit on this board?? I can't get the board to post with the ram at 1066mhz only 800mhz. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Chickenman

Well - I was bored and it's pretty damn cold outside - opened my window and cranked some volts through my q6600 - reached 444FSB on P5N32E sli and got a nice fat 4ghz









http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=407028

I ran Superpi which was fine but halfway through 3dmark06 it died - would be fine with more volts but meh - I aint gonna blow up my cpu tonight :S


----------



## burning-skies

anyone know the best bios version for this board for OC'ing,i seem to be stuck at 2.95ghz, i have tried EVERYTHING to get to 3ghz but no luck:swearing:

would a bios upgrade/downgrade help?

cheers

Nice overclock Chickenman


----------



## Robilar

1303 is considered the best for quads


----------



## Chickenman

It's been confirmed by Burning-skies and me that 1503 is the pwnage as far as q6600's go anyways


----------



## burning-skies

.
i upgraded to 1503, hit 3ghz just by changing the FSB (QDR) to 1333. then managed to get 3.6ghz stable







.


----------



## Monst3r

im gettin a e8600 next week u still think 1503 would suit it the best or only for quad?


----------



## Monst3r

for the northbridge im purchasing http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...oducts_id=3766 what should i get for the southbridge.. this is the only site i can use cheers


----------



## t4ct1c47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


1303 is considered the best for quads


1503 is indeed the new king.

I've just been able to POST and bench with the new 1503 BIOS with my *Q6600 @ 3.4Ghz*. I've never attained anything that high on the P5N32-E with any previous BIOS.

I've been able to POST at 3.6Ghz, but will need to experiment a little before I can find a stable setting at that speed.


----------



## Chickenman

Just make sure your northbridge is well cooled and has 1.55v (bios) running through it - will see you rocking to 4ghz where it becomes an issue of lorra volts and high temps to get the dirty quads stable :S


----------



## Monst3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chickenman*


Just make sure your northbridge is well cooled and has 1.55v (bios) running through it - will see you rocking to 4ghz where it becomes an issue of lorra volts and high temps to get the dirty quads stable :S


Can u get any higher then 3.4?


----------



## Chickenman

lol - link in my sig is a 4ghz run...

I bench at 3.8 but it gets a bit warm









http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3250/...bdf0f706_b.jpg


----------



## xc90

hi there 
i still have a e6400 rev l2, and i'am using the 1203.
does the 1503 indicated for it and will clock better???
Thanks


----------



## Chickenman

It may not clock better at all - the board was ok with dual cores.

What clocks you getting now? basically... if it aint broke, don't fix it


----------



## labeldave

I found that I couldn't get my computer to post at 3.6 before. I am typing this at 3.6. BUt it took another 120mm fan facing towards the board to do it. All voltage settings still on auto. 9x400, ram: 800mhz 4-4-4-12- 1t.

With my system,

a: what should I set voltages too? cpu-z is reading 1.34 on the chip right now. How about everything else?

b: I'm assuming my next step should probably be to get the NB and SB cool. Which I want to do, just don't want to remove the cool heat piping. LOL. Whats the best/quickest way to do this? I found options, just don't know which one.

My other question is, my power supply gets really warm also, should I up that too?

thanks


----------



## Chickenman

I will post some pics in a sec but to utilise the standard cooling...

Screw a 40 mm fan to the Northbridge chip.(if you can with your cpu cooler.
Use thermal tape to attach a better heatsink to the southbridge (on top of the existing one) they make a little difference.

but...

Volts..

1.55 max on northbridge good for 450fsb+ with Dual Core
Cpu VTT - it's an oft debated number this - I did as Robilar states at the start and set it to 1.55 (although with the previous bios lower settings were better).
1.2v HT - 1.25-1.3 ish.
southbridge.. lol - any more volts on stock cooling and you could fry eggs on this sucker.
(set to 1.5).

I suggest grabbing your cpu volts and doing a quick reboot/stresstest until you can get it stable at as low a voltage as possible.

Good luck.

Edit: added a pic of what I used - I Just cut the heatpipes and use original heatsinks for the mosfets (although - the tim they use is soooooooooo bad - make sure you replace it.) an Evercool Serpent and Hr05 Sli/Ifx.


----------



## labeldave

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chickenman* 
I will post some pics in a sec but to utilise the standard cooling...

Screw a 40 mm fan to the Northbridge chip.(if you can with your cpu cooler.
Use thermal tape to attach a better heatsink to the southbridge (on top of the existing one) they make a little difference.

but...

Volts..

1.55 max on northbridge good for 450fsb+ with Dual Core
Cpu VTT - it's an oft debated number this - I did as Robilar states at the start and set it to 1.55 (although with the previous bios lower settings were better).
1.2v HT - 1.25-1.3 ish.
southbridge.. lol - any more volts on stock cooling and you could fry eggs on this sucker.
(set to 1.5).

I suggest grabbing your cpu volts and doing a quick reboot/stresstest until you can get it stable at as low a voltage as possible.

Good luck.

Edit: added a pic of what I used - I Just cut the heatpipes and use original heatsinks for the mosfets (although - the tim they use is soooooooooo bad - make sure you replace it.) an Evercool Serpent and Hr05 Sli/Ifx.

I like that setup in the pic, but unfortunately my dual 8800gt's my not fit.
Little by little I'm learning and all you guys are great. I'm going to try some direct 40mm fans right on the NB and SB before I go too much further.


----------



## Chickenman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *labeldave* 
I like that setup in the pic, but unfortunately my dual 8800gt's my not fit.
Little by little I'm learning and all you guys are great. I'm going to try some direct 40mm fans right on the NB and SB before I go too much further.

Grab everest from somewhere if you haven't already - the temps you're looking for are spp and mcp in the sensor page.

Also - as long as you don't use a different soundcard the twin 8800's will fit with that Heatsink, I used to have mine in the bottom slot no probs.


----------



## FilluX

Just a fast off-topic question:

Will a intel e7200 work with this mobo?

Thanx


----------



## DanNiE DaRkO

I have a quick question i have this same board, no problems overclocking at all got my C2D E6600 up to 3.6 on aircooling, MY problem is that.. for some reason i cannot run CPU-z, i tried to run it on several different times. i receive an odd .dll error.. does anyone else have this same problem with CPU-z with this board?


----------



## FilluX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DanNiE DaRkO*


I have a quick question i have this same board, no problems overclocking at all got my C2D E6600 up to 3.6 on aircooling, MY problem is that.. for some reason i cannot run CPU-z, i tried to run it on several different times. i receive an odd .dll error.. does anyone else have this same problem with CPU-z with this board?


I had that board about half a year ago, never had any problems with cpu-z.

Try by re-installing the latest version:

http://www.cpuid.com/download/cpuz_147.zip

Hope this helps

FilluX


----------



## FilluX

--


----------



## DanNiE DaRkO

Alright i'll try it out when i get home from work


----------



## burtethead

still no one out there who has my same problem??? i'll tell the story again, maybe someone has an idea. on both the 1404 and 1503 bioses whenever i reach a stable oc and get into windows, cpuz, orthos, coretemp all show the cpu at stock speeds. the bios is reporting the speed correctly. also, c1e and speedstep and all those settings are disabled, and yet cpuz reports my cpu constantly shifting between 6x and 9x depending on the load. arent those settings supposed to stop that kind of activity? are my bios settings being completely disregarded by vista?? anyone with a clue speak up. thanks.


----------



## Monst3r

i believe that ur problem should go away when u update ur bios to 1503.. Try resetting ur cmos also, should work!


----------



## Chickenman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *burtethead*


still no one out there who has my same problem??? i'll tell the story again, maybe someone has an idea. on both the 1404 and 1503 bioses whenever i reach a stable oc and get into windows, cpuz, orthos, coretemp all show the cpu at stock speeds. the bios is reporting the speed correctly. also, c1e and speedstep and all those settings are disabled, and yet cpuz reports my cpu constantly shifting between 6x and 9x depending on the load. arent those settings supposed to stop that kind of activity? are my bios settings being completely disregarded by vista?? anyone with a clue speak up. thanks.


Man - that sucks.

The only thing I can suggest is changing to a much earlier Bios (120x) and seeing if that helps. As I said - I had the exact same issue with the bios before 1503 (140x) I thought maybe it was because I updated bios while my settings were Overclocked so I reset my bios before the upgrade to 1503 and never saw the issue again.
Hope you get it happening for you man, after having this board for almost a year... I know how it can screw with you.


----------



## labeldave

Quote:


Originally Posted by *burtethead* 
still no one out there who has my same problem??? i'll tell the story again, maybe someone has an idea. on both the 1404 and 1503 bioses whenever i reach a stable oc and get into windows, cpuz, orthos, coretemp all show the cpu at stock speeds. the bios is reporting the speed correctly. also, c1e and speedstep and all those settings are disabled, and yet cpuz reports my cpu constantly shifting between 6x and 9x depending on the load. arent those settings supposed to stop that kind of activity? are my bios settings being completely disregarded by vista?? anyone with a clue speak up. thanks.

I had a similar issue. I had to reflash the bios and start over. Try to clear cmos manually first.


----------



## FilluX

Will a intel c2d e7200 work with this mobo?

Thanx


----------



## Robilar

Yes, with the most current bios


----------



## FilluX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


Yes, with the most current bios


Allright thanx mate!


----------



## burtethead

thanks for the suggestions, but earlier bioses wont work for me since i have an e8400 i need 1404 at least. it doesnt matter though, i figured it out. this nvidia performance control panel i got to adjust the fan speed on my gtx260 was the culprit. somehow, i have no idea how, it would override my bios settings. either way, i got rid of that and now im having no problems. i think its version 6.02b nvidia system tools.


----------



## Chickenman

Now get overclocking and help me decide if I should buy a new E8x00


----------



## burtethead

ok, well so far i have gotten stable at 3375 mhz, with 1.28 vcore. even though this is really low, ive been getting pretty bad temps with my 9700 cooler. its hitting 65-70c under load, 40 idle. this seems really high, doesnt it? im gonna try re-seating the zalman and get back to you, i hope i dont have a bum chip. anyone else gettings temps this high with an e8400 at 1.28 vcore?


----------



## labeldave

Figured I put my two cents in. I put the EVERCOOL EC-VC-RE coolers in place of the stock SB/NB cooling system and the piping, like it says in the guide to the beginning of this thread. I also replaced my case with a much cooler case. Now I get much cooler temps and overclocking to 3.8 has been a breeze. Just have to find the magic volt numbers. Make sure you cool the NB/SB.


----------



## labeldave

Quote:


Originally Posted by *burtethead* 
ok, well so far i have gotten stable at 3375 mhz, with 1.28 vcore. even though this is really low, ive been getting pretty bad temps with my 9700 cooler. its hitting 65-70c under load, 40 idle. this seems really high, doesnt it? im gonna try re-seating the zalman and get back to you, i hope i dont have a bum chip. anyone else gettings temps this high with an e8400 at 1.28 vcore?

Thos were about the temps I was getting before reseating my 9700 and new case +NB/SB fans. Low idle now is about 38 C. But be more concerned about load temps. I only hit about 54 C in real temp now.


----------



## Chickenman

I don't trust realtemp - coretemp/everest read the same and it's higher than real temp so I use them









as for cooling...


----------



## Monst3r

yeh dude core temp


----------



## burtethead

i dont know how it got on that tangent, but with a 45nm chip like i have, realtemp is the only one that shows accurately. the rest are all exactly 10c higher, because they use a tjunction of 105, and the 45nm uses 95. so anyways, i have the evercool like yours on my northbridge, and an hr-05-sli/ifx on the south, so thats not the issue. i have an antec p180b with pretty good airflow, im going to install to intake fans, since i only have the stock 2 exhaust 1 intake right now. i hope reseating the 9700 is gonna solve the issues, since it was kinda a tough install. ill keep ya posted


----------



## t4ct1c47

Looks like I've pretty much found my limit with my system's current cooling. I've managed to overclock my current *Q6600 @ 3.50Ghz*. I'd say that's reasonable compared to my previous *E6600 @ 3.75Ghz*.


----------



## burning-skies

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t4ct1c47*


Looks like I've pretty much found my limit with my system's current cooling. I've managed to overclock my current *Q6600 @ 3.50Ghz*. I'd say that's reasonable compared to my previous *E6600 @ 3.75Ghz*.










What Bios version are you using?
nice O/C btw


----------



## labeldave

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chickenman*


I don't trust realtemp - coretemp/everest read the same and it's higher than real temp so I use them









as for cooling...



After using both, I found the temp variances not to be that much of a difference on my rig. I like realtemp better due to it's ability to easily show highest temp hit when running test programs.


----------



## burtethead

hey labeldave, u have the same cpu and cooler as me. what temps are you getting with that overclock? and what vcore are you using?


----------



## labeldave

Quote:


Originally Posted by *burtethead* 
hey labeldave, u have the same cpu and cooler as me. what temps are you getting with that overclock? and what vcore are you using?

with that overclock, I'm setting the vcore to 1.38125 (1.36 reading in bios).
and NB voltage to 1.5-1.55. 1.55 seems a little more stable. My highest hit temp was 61 C. By running 3dmark06 3 times in a row.

Last night I played around some more and got it stable at 4.05ghz 1780x9. But with a vcore set to 1.425 and NB set to 1.65V. Highest temp hit was 63 C. I'm not sure if I would recommend going that high with these voltages though. I can't read NB and SB temps in everest. It won't recognize my board.
But excitingly enough I got a 3Dmark06 score of 18,850.


----------



## labeldave

ok folks, I'm shooting for 4.2 - 4.5 ghz tonight. Wish me luck. I will post stats and run prime95 or orthos tests.


----------



## groogster

Hi i need help with you guys, because i have a problem since today.

Let me show you my sistem first:

E8400
P5N-E SLI (Bios 1101)
Ram 2 X 2Gb Exceleram PC6400 5-5-5-15-23

Untill yesterday i was able to OC easily my CPU to 3.6 Ghz with Vcore 1.225 with 1 x 1Gb Kingston Value Ram PC5300 (667Mhz) but since the moment that iÂ´ve installed the Exceleram (today) i cannot OC anymore, i go to bios, select FSB 400, select unlinked and save and after the restart the bios put again the FSB to stock settings, i donÂ´t now what to do anymore but itÂ´s obvious that is related with my new ram. What can i do?

ThankÂ´s

groogster


----------



## burning-skies

Quote:


Originally Posted by *labeldave* 
ok folks, I'm shooting for 4.2 - 4.5 ghz tonight. Wish me luck. I will post stats and run prime95 or orthos tests.

what kind of cooling do you have on your NB, 1.65 is pretty high. i hope you manage to get 4.2 but i think its going to be a struggle









Quote:


Originally Posted by *groogster* 
Hi i need help with you guys, because i have a problem since today.

Let me show you my sistem first:

E8400
P5N-E SLI (Bios 1101)
Ram 2 X 2Gb Exceleram PC6400 5-5-5-15-23

Untill yesterday i was able to OC easily my CPU to 3.6 Ghz with Vcore 1.225 with 1 x 1Gb Kingston Value Ram PC5300 (667Mhz) but since the moment that iÂ´ve installed the Exceleram (today) i cannot OC anymore, i go to bios, select FSB 400, select unlinked and save and after the restart the bios put again the FSB to stock settings, i donÂ´t now what to do anymore but itÂ´s obvious that is related with my new ram. What can i do?

ThankÂ´s

groogster

do you not have the P5N32-E then? what chipset is it, 650i or 680i?
if its the 650i, then check out this thread http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...0i-thread.html


----------



## Chickenman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *labeldave* 
I can't read NB and SB temps in everest. It won't recognize my board.

The newer version of everest displays them correctly.


----------



## labeldave

burning-skies said:


> what kind of cooling do you have on your NB, 1.65 is pretty high. i hope you manage to get 4.2 but i think its going to be a struggle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the evercool EV something. Most guys can hit 1.65 with a fan on the northbridge. I can get the system to boot up at 1800x9, but it errors on testing. It was really warm in my house too. I have 6 140mm fans in my case and plan on adding two more. I'm still doing alot of testing. Right now, 3.8 seems to be the most stable setting.


----------



## burning-skies

hmmm i think iv screwed my board







.

i had my q6600 running at 3.6ghz and ram at 1120mhz 24/7 so i tried to go higher...

i managed to OC to 3.8ghz, that was fine then i tried booting with 4.0ghz, i used 1.55 on NB and around 1.54 in the bios for vcore,it got half way through booting then BSOD. i then cleared CMOS using the jumper,i tried to boot at FSB (QDR) 1600 with ram at 1066 to get back to 3.6 and it doesnt work.

after the restart on the bottom,it says system boot failure,last boot failed (or something similar),please load defaults and boot again.
it works fine on stock settings, but the thing is i can change the voltages of the vcore,NB and memory and boot into windows at stock speeds,and its still kept the increase in voltages.

i have tried reverting back to Bios 1404 then flashing back to 1503,i have cleared CMOS by removing the battery,was only out about 10seconds though.

and the memory stops at 800mhz i cant get it higher than that at all,even when i dont oc the cpu.

any ideas?

cheers


----------



## burtethead

anyone have any idea why my bios says 1.3 vcore, hwmonitor says 1.3 vcore, yet cpuz says 1.504 core voltage? cpuz is usually the most accuate, but im definitely not running this 8400 at 1.5v thats crazy talk. any clues?


----------



## burning-skies

just go off what hwmonitor says,or try everest. CPUZ all ways gives false readings, it showed me 1.60 on my q66 but it was only at 1.4 lol. dont use it to read voltages









simple!


----------



## labeldave

cpu-z seems to read vtt voltage. I don't trust it either. Go by the voltage reading in the voltage monitor in your bios.

I too have difficulties getting my ram over 800. Unless I set everything to stock. Really wierd.


----------



## Hit in the Head

Thank you so much, to all of you!

I finally decided to take a deep breath and OC my system.

I have been looking for a balance between a quiet and an OC'd machine. It's done, and I'm stoked.

Cheers to all!









-Hit


----------



## Robilar

Good to see it worked out for you. the P5N32-E has always been an excellent board with dual core chips.


----------



## Gnickrapon

Hi everyone, long time reader, first time poster. Robilar, i noticed on a post of yours from a long time ago that you had a spirit II on our NB and your SB. You were also running sli at the time, was it hard to get the bottom card out with the spirit II installed? Looked like a tight fit. Secondly is the spirit II still your recommendation?

Cheers


----------



## Gnickrapon

Also Robilar, I noticed on another site that you're using the antec spotcool on the NB of your new system, do you think it would be any good for the P5n32 NB? Noticed you were also using the duorbs for your vid cards. How did you find them, was thinking of picking up a pair for my setup. Thanks for the help.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gnickrapon*


Hi everyone, long time reader, first time poster. Robilar, i noticed on a post of yours from a long time ago that you had a spirit II on our NB and your SB. You were also running sli at the time, was it hard to get the bottom card out with the spirit II installed? Looked like a tight fit. Secondly is the spirit II still your recommendation?

Cheers


It fits fine. The only issue is if you are using a sound card and sli. in that case the card can only be up to a certain length (otherwise it bangs into the sb cooler)

I still stand by the Spirit II's. Good performance, nice looking, easy and flexible installation and not overly expensive.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gnickrapon*


Also Robilar, I noticed on another site that you're using the antec spotcool on the NB of your new system, do you think it would be any good for the P5n32 NB? Noticed you were also using the duorbs for your vid cards. How did you find them, was thinking of picking up a pair for my setup. Thanks for the help.


The Duorbs were simply amazing on the 8800GT. They can't cope with more powerful cards (like the GTS for example) but with the 8800GT's I saw idles in the low 40's load in low 50's.

Plus they work really well in an SLI setup.


----------



## Gnickrapon

Thanks for the quick response! Looks like I have a few purchases to make. Thanks again for the help


----------



## labeldave

Well I did some research, and I can't get my computer over 3.875 stable. After trying a single video card, it was stable over 4.10. And with sli mode it only crashes the graphics. I'm beginnning to think my power supply is holding me back. not enought juice for SLI and this much of an overclock. Anyone else out there want to confirm. Thanks.


----------



## olivierdc

hi all
i'm new here and i english is not my 1st language so sorry









thx for all advice i red here, i oc'ed my computer but i have soe stability problems after 5min running CPU Stress. no problems in games, OCCT, everest test or 3dmark06. i don't understand why...

i think i got some too low voltage for SB, NB and VTT (see screnns below). i tried to use only 1 ram and change slots, remve 1 graphic card and run them with normal frequencies, but always the same problems. temperature are amazing, with Noctua rad i can remove my vantecs coolers (too noisy :x) and it's reach 50-53Â°C while watching movies.
http://img369.imageshack.us/my.php?i...0639044bu4.jpg
http://img187.imageshack.us/my.php?i...4906499wo6.jpg

i red that this card and some rams can run in 1T mode? is that true ?

by the way, i have Noctua NH-U9F cooling system with 8800 SLI, do anyone know a compatible air cooling for my NB and SB ? their cooling system with heatpipe is really cheap.


----------



## Gnickrapon

So I got my Spirit II's for my North and South Bridge. I'll probably install them this weekend but before i do that i need to track down a suitable replacement for the Swifttech MC21's. Any ideas? Only thing i was able to track down was this.
http://www.pcgogo.com.au/index.php?a...productId=4607
Would they be suitable even though they're a little smaller than the Swiftech's?
Cheers


----------



## Robilar

They should be fine. make sure you run the board for an hour or so to warm up the chips (run it naked at the VRM's). Then put the adhesive sinks on immediately and let it cool.

that will ensure it sticks well.


----------



## Ducky

Just got my q6600 from canadacomputers, I think it's time to see what this sucker can do!

I thought I killed my mobo for a while when I was putting this in. wasn't posting, but now I have everything apart on my desk running so I'm happy..

Again, thanks for the great guide robilar, it's helped me a whole lot


----------



## Robilar

Thanks. A lot of members contributed to the thread over the last year.

I think its actually one of the most viewed threads in the entire site.


----------



## Ducky

Funny to hear considering it's a mobo-specific thread. It's been on my subscription list from the first page though.


----------



## Gnickrapon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


They should be fine. make sure you run the board for an hour or so to warm up the chips (run it naked at the VRM's). Then put the adhesive sinks on immediately and let it cool.

that will ensure it sticks well.


Thanks.







Obviously there's going to be a bit of residue on the chips from the old heatsink pipe, what's the best thing to clean it off with?


----------



## Robilar

rubbing alcohol works fine


----------



## Gnickrapon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


rubbing alcohol works fine


You sir, are awesome.


----------



## burtethead

I dont know about the rest of you, but when i bought this board i referred to the QVL to buy my ram, and i ended up getting the kingston KHX6400D2LL/1G, two of them. they arent really taking well to my overclocking attempts, and i was thinking about getting an upgrade. now that so many people have used this board, the community has accumulated a much better 'QVL' than asus had. so what would be the best ram for overclocking, 4x1gb preferrably, in everyones expert opinions? help me out!


----------



## labeldave

Quote:



Originally Posted by *labeldave*


Well I did some research, and I can't get my computer over 3.875 stable. After trying a single video card, it was stable over 4.10. And with sli mode it only crashes the graphics. I'm beginnning to think my power supply is holding me back. not enought juice for SLI and this much of an overclock. Anyone else out there want to confirm. Thanks.


anyone confirm?


----------



## zvzulndr

I can't confirm but from my own setup and issues I've seen, I think you're right. 550W and 2X8800GTs is not enough juice. I'd suggest at least 700W. 850W if you can afford it. And make sure the PS can supply 30A to the 5V rail and close to 20 on the 12V rails.


----------



## Gnickrapon

Quick question guys. I'm contemplating a memory upgrade. This is them.
http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...pc_4gb_edition
Thoughts? Cheers


----------



## Monst3r

Nah mate go either one of these 2 depends on how much you wanna spend personally id go the pq's..
PK:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231166
PQ: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231145


----------



## Gnickrapon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Monst3r*


Nah mate go either one of these 2 depends on how much you wanna spend personally id go the pq's.. 
PK:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231166
PQ: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231145


Cheers. Can you order from newegg in Australia?


----------



## Gnickrapon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Monst3r*


Nah mate go either one of these 2 depends on how much you wanna spend personally id go the pq's.. 
PK:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231166
PQ: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231145


Anyone know if these guys have the highly recommended Micron D9 IC's?


----------



## Monst3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gnickrapon* 
Anyone know if these guys have the highly recommended Micron D9 IC's?

hey mate ur best bet is go to www.msy.com.au its a aussiie site they have the G skill Pq ram for so cheap, And newegg dont ship to australia unfortunately was just showing you what ram 2 get, if u go to the site i linked above it has some cheap G skill Pq's







Also some other good sites are pcccasegear.com and umart.net


----------



## Gnickrapon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Monst3r* 
hey mate ur best bet is go to www.msy.com.au its a aussiie site they have the G skill Pq ram for so cheap, And newegg dont ship to australia unfortunately was just showing you what ram 2 get, if u go to the site i linked above it has some cheap G skill Pq's







Also some other good sites are pcccasegear.com and umart.net









Nice one! Already a big fan of umart.


----------



## Monst3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gnickrapon* 
Nice one! Already a big fan of umart.









hehe me too ive spend thousands from their.. If u also look on pccasegear i believe they have the G skill Pq's but are rather expensive, hope u find the ram ur after


----------



## alaindesjardins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *burning-skies* 







.
i upgraded to 1503, hit 3ghz just by changing the FSB (QDR) to 1333. then managed to get 3.6ghz stable







.

I am wondering what you recommend for voltages, I have a Q6600 with 1503 bios on a P5N32-E SLI motherboard. I would like to reach 3.6ghz stable, but im not sure on what critical settings are required to even attempt this. Right now, anything above 3.0 seems to give me mixed results.

So far, reading the numerous pages of posts I have set the CPU VTT to 1.55, and understand that I should not go higher than 1.55 on the NB Voltages. The rest elude me as to what I should do for the rest of the voltages, they are all set to Auto. I read as well that I shouldnt go over 1.45volts for 24/7 operation on my CPU voltage.

I have an Apogee GTX watercooler on my CPU, a MCW30 on my Northbridge and pure copper heatsinks on my mosfets with a thermalright heatsink on the southbridge. My radiator is a thermochill PA120.3 and I have a very nice swiftech pump to circulate all this. I think my cooling is covered for now, but I want to reach higher clock rates.

My RAM is TWIN2X4096-6400C4DHX and I have a 700 gamerxstream OCZ PSU.

Any help is really appreciated, i will start testing as soon as I have more input.... otherwise I will keep reading in hopes of finding the magical answers. 500 some pages to go!


----------



## Gnickrapon

I know the answer to my next question is contained in the previous 520 pages of this thread but if someone could save me the trouble, that would be great. What's the best monitoring and stress testing software for this board? Voltages and temps etc.
Cheers


----------



## jul3z

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gnickrapon*


I know the answer to my next question is contained in the previous 520 pages of this thread but if someone could save me the trouble, that would be great. What's the best monitoring and stress testing software for this board? Voltages and temps etc. 
Cheers


Although not board specific, I use Prime95 to stress test. Monitoring is coretemp, realtemp, or everest.


----------



## Gnickrapon

Thanks







+Rep for you. Monitoring voltage is monitored through everest isn't it?


----------



## Monst3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gnickrapon*


Thanks








+Rep for you. Monitoring voltage is monitored through everest isn't it?


Everest and HW Monitor


----------



## Gnickrapon

Noob question but the Asus Ai overclocking tool that comes on the disk is pointless isn't it? I do all my voltage adjustments in bios but would having the program installed be doing any harm?









Cheers


----------



## burning-skies

no,use BIOS to change any settings to achieve an OC.
i have that program installed and it doesnt affect anything.


----------



## Snacuum

Ah this is rediculous, I can't get my e8200 over 3.1 ghz


----------



## Gnickrapon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *burning-skies*


no,use BIOS to change any settings to achieve an OC.
i have that program installed and it doesnt affect anything.


Thanks


----------



## Gnickrapon

Here's my problem. Installed my spirit II's on the nb and sb. Before i did this i changed my fsb back to it's stock value 1066, just in case. After installing, I rebooted the computer and entered the bios and changed back to unlinked mode and reset my fsb to it's previous value of 1360 (didn't want to stress my system too much before adding all the cooling). System started as normal with no problems except the cpu was still running at stock settings. So I restarted and entered the bios again....only to find that i had been set to auto instead of unlinked and the fsb had been reset to stock (1066). Have gone back into the bios several times, made the changes, then saved but for some reason the bios won't save the changes. Have been using using bios 1503 for about a month without issue. Ideas Robilar? Anyone?

Thanks


----------



## burning-skies

iv had this problem a few times, take the CMOS battery out,leave for a few minutes,then reset using the CMOS jumper, put jumper back into correct position,replace battery then reboot,but dont enter all your OC settings straight away, enter the time and date etc. boot up into windows,restart, then change your settings for your OC.


----------



## deuce126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar*


thats similar to the errors I got right before the power supply died.


Hey everyone i am new to all this OC stuff but have been fighting with the 4.08v problem for some time now. Think i might of figured out what might solve some of the peoples wories. First of all i will give my system spec's. I have pieced together an Asus system using A P5N32-E SLI MOTHER BOARD YES 680i chipset, On this board i have an intel E6750 CPU and 2 gig of OCZ PC2-8500 Dual SLI Ready EPP,Two XFX 8800gt 512 vidio cards in sli mode. To power this monster i installed Ultra 600-Watt Power Supply - ATX, SATA-Ready, PCI-E Ready,this power supply came with an12v 8pin (4+4) CPU supply conector. so when i first built the system i removed the plastic cap covering the second 4pin conector and conected the 8 pin directly to the board thinking this was the way it should be, but as soon as i ran PC PROBE i got the same thing 4.08v i just split the plug and only conected one side the one closest to my ramm and rebooted (did disconect the power plug from Power supply while splitting plug) all the readings in PC probe are now with in spec... who would of thought a simple plug could cause so much havic... hope this helps someone else DEUCE126


----------



## Gnickrapon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *burning-skies*


iv had this problem a few times, take the CMOS battery out,leave for a few minutes,then reset using the CMOS jumper, put jumper back into correct position,replace battery then reboot,but dont enter all your OC settings straight away, enter the time and date etc. boot up into windows,restart, then change your settings for your OC.


Cheers, I'll give it a try tonight. Do you have to remove the battery? On my old board all you had to do was move the jumper to the other position, wait about 15 secs then put it back to the correct position and power up. Thanks for the help.


----------



## burning-skies

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gnickrapon*


Cheers, I'll give it a try tonight. Do you have to remove the battery? On my old board all you had to do was move the jumper to the other position, wait about 15 secs then put it back to the correct position and power up. Thanks for the help.










when i use the jumper reset, all it resets is my settings,clock and date still stops as it were. but if i remove the battery everything is reset, inc date and time. so thats why i do the battery+ the jumper just to make sure


----------



## Gnickrapon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *burning-skies*


when i use the jumper reset, all it resets is my settings,clock and date still stops as it were. but if i remove the battery everything is reset, inc date and time. so thats why i do the battery+ the jumper just to make sure










You sir, are awesome! Worked a treat. + rep for you


----------



## Shin2k35

What are my friends chances of getting a decent overclock with this board and a Q6600?


----------



## mica3speedy

depends on what you call a decent overclock. Based on what I've seen, the average is around 3.2-3.3. This board doesn't like quad cores very much.

Does anybody else use the antec spot cool for their nb? What temps are you guys getting for the nb?


----------



## Metal425

3.0-3.4 is my guess.


----------



## Gnickrapon

Noob question alert. How tight do the TT Spirits have to be? Firm or really tight? Just a little worried about doing them up too tight and damaging the board but also want to make sure i've got good contact so I don't fry my NB. I take it the only way to measure NB temp is still with a Temp probe?

Cheers guys


----------



## mica3speedy

The latest version of Everest will read your nb (spp), and your sb (mcp) temperatures.

Now here's my dilemma, and I think it's the board. I cant get above 3.8 stable here is what I have:

nb: 1.5
sb: 1.5
1.2ht: 1.3
vtt: 1.3
cpu: 1.35

Orthos passes 14 hours at full blend, the intel burn test went 2 hours just fine. Memtest had no errors after two hours. The problem is that services and programs (primarily firefox) act up and crash. I'll get a bsod on occassion as well. Bsod's are 0x00000019, and 0x0000008E. Both I think are memory related issues, but my ram is at stock speed and at 2.050v which is what the ram is rated for. I think it may be more of a board issue since the nic port acts up as well. I'm still running 1404, should I go to 1503? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Gnickrapon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
The latest version of Everest will read your nb (spp), and your sb (mcp) temperatures.

Thanks.







Anyone got a link for where i can get this? The only one i could find is everest home edition which doesn't seem to show these temps.


----------



## mica3speedy

you can buy the ultimate edition:

http://www.lavalys.com/purchase.php?lang=en


----------



## mica3speedy

Well I updated my bios to 1503 to see if it would help with my overclock. I found that I have an fsb hole at 450







. I found that I can get 475x6 to work, but not 475x8. With the 1503 bios, my multiplyer jumps up and down between 6 and 8 even though all power savings are turned off. At least my cpu temperature was corrected. I went back to 1404 after finding the multi jumping around; so that issue went away. I'm doing more testing, so any suggestions would be appreciated







.


----------



## Gnickrapon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


The latest version of Everest will read your nb (spp), and your sb (mcp) temperatures.


Was reading some of the earlier pages and it was mentioned repeatedly that there aren't any probes on this board for the north and south bridge temps. So how can Everest register temps without a probe? Would like to be sure before i hand over the dollars for everest ultimate. Cheers for the help.


----------



## mica3speedy

there are probes on them, everest as of version 4.5 has been able to read them. I'll post a screen shot of mine when my machine is done testing. It lists nb (spp), and sb (mcp). The newest version, 4.6 should as well.


----------



## mica3speedy

well here's a screen shot of everest, disregard my temps for the cpu, they are wrong since I have bios 1404.

And here are my thoughts on this board. I don't think it likes the cpu fsb being higher than the ram fsb. I found that having my fsb ratio 1:1 actually made my system consistently more stable than having the ram at a lower fsb. Also, in my case, I found that increasing the sb voltage to 1.6 finally got me stable (of all things







) . I finally got my system stable with the following settings:

cpu vcore: 1.3625 (1.34 after vdroop)
mem: 1.2125
1.2ht: 1.35
nb: 1.5
sb: 1.6
cpu vtt: 1.3

Currently, my system is 14hrs stable orthos blend, occt 2hrs, and 10 passes intel burn 1.7. Cpu is 444x9, ram is at 888. Will continue to play to see what I get.


----------



## Gnickrapon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
there are probes on them, everest as of version 4.5 has been able to read them. I'll post a screen shot of mine when my machine is done testing. It lists nb (spp), and sb (mcp). The newest version, 4.6 should as well.

I stand corrected. Thanks for clearing that up for me.







Now i can finally start to push my system. I'm stable at 3.4 but i'm sure it's got more. +Rep for you!


----------



## knockout100

I seem to be having an unusual problem with my overclocking. I have a P5N32-E sli board with a q6600 G0 stepping and 1503 bios. I have it clocked to 3.2 right now. The thing is that the computer runs very well with all programs, very stable, even during long gaming sessions there are no problems and it runs very strong. But when I run Prime 95 to test it always freezes the computer about an hour in. My CPU runs at about 40 c idle and around mid 60's c under load. Im running on vista 64 bit. my voltages are

Vcore: 1.3
Memory: auto
1.2V HT: 1.25
NB: 1.55
SB: 1.5
CPU VTT: 1.55

I have stock cooling on my north and south bridge. Is my problem with my voltages or is it a cooling problem??


----------



## reezin14

With this mobo,going past 3.0 is hard to achieve,you could try upping the vcore,but I haven't seen many past 3.0.Watch your temps under load,if you get it stable they'll most likely go up(longer stress session).


----------



## Monst3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *knockout100* 
I seem to be having an unusual problem with my overclocking. I have a P5N32-E sli board with a q6600 G0 stepping and 1503 bios. I have it clocked to 3.2 right now. The thing is that the computer runs very well with all programs, very stable, even during long gaming sessions there are no problems and it runs very strong. But when I run Prime 95 to test it always freezes the computer about an hour in. My CPU runs at about 40 c idle and around mid 60's c under load. Im running on vista 64 bit. my voltages are

Vcore: 1.3
Memory: auto
1.2V HT: 1.25
NB: 1.55
SB: 1.5
CPU VTT: 1.55

I have stock cooling on my north and south bridge. Is my problem with my voltages or is it a cooling problem??

The problem with these 680i boards is that the NB does heat up alot actually.. Possibly mount a 40mm fan or you can purchase the Enzotech Heatisnk with comes with a 40mm attached, Remember to remove the old TIM and re apply a fresh layer.. Remember also these boards arent really quad friendly and wont oc quads past 3.2ghz unless its the EVGA 680i wish can easy ht 3.6ghz


----------



## mica3speedy

at 1.55v, your nb is most likely toasty, like monst3r said. Also, your vcore may be a little low for your processor.


----------



## angelaers

Hi there







!!! My first post







wanted to ask why when i OC'd my Q6600 (B3) to 3.0 Ghz............. it remains stable only if i set my memory ratio to 3:2 (889 Mhz) ! anything above that the system either crash or causes problem!! Actually doesnt matter if i OC its like that even at stock! And i bought the Corsair Dominator 1GB x 2 (1066Mhz) !!!!!!!!
CPU Core : 1.33 V
NB Core : 1.44V
SB Core : 1.52V
Memory : 2.2V
CPU VTT: 1.65V









Any suggestion?


----------



## Snacuum

mica3speedy how did you get your 8400 up to 3.8?

I have the same components as you except I have an 8200, which I can't get to go higher than 3.1


----------



## SLIMaxPower

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Snacuum*


mica3speedy how did you get your 8400 up to 3.8?

I have the same components as you except I have an 8200, which I can't get to go higher than 3.1


Just upgraded from a e4500 to a e8400 E0. e4500 max o/c was 3.3 from 2.2 at 1.55v, wouldn't go any harder no matter how many volts I threw its way. max for this e8400 is 4.275 at max safe volts (currently 1.42v) nb and sb @ 1.6v, which I can prolly drop to 1.55v


----------



## mica3speedy

make sure you guys have at least a fan blowing on the nb. Here are my settings:

vcore: 1.35 (might be a little high for 3.825 so will do some testing to lower)
mem: 1.2125 (425 so it's 1:1)
1.2ht: 1.35
nb: 1.45
sb: 1.55
cup vtt: 1.3

Remember though that every board and cpu are different and results vary. It took me months to get me to this point. For me, fsb above 445 would require more nb voltage and a third party chipset cooler. I have a spot cool blowing on my nb right now. With the stock heat pipes and a fan blowing on the nb, the fsb can go to around 430-435 pretty reliably, 435+ would be pushing it. Slimaxpower, what multi and fsb were you using for your e4500?


----------



## SLIMaxPower

hey mica,

the e4500 had a locked multi 11 fsb ran at 300. got spirit II on both NB and SB.

edit couldn't push it any harder


----------



## WAZZ UP

anyone recommend a good stable OC for my setup? tried to do it myself and just get lockup's at 2.52ghz! cheers


----------



## knockout100

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WAZZ UP*


anyone recommend a good stable OC for my setup? tried to do it myself and just get lockup's at 2.52ghz! cheers


I have the same processor and mobo as you. I just got my system to 3.2 stable. my volts are.

vcore: 1.3
mem: auto
1.2: 1.3
nb: 1.55
sb: 1.5
vtt: 1.55

with the q6600 it seems like anything lower than 1.55 on the nb lowers stability quit a bit, just make you have an aftermarket cooler on your nb at the least, but you should get one for sb too. without one you wont get any kind of stability.


----------



## WAZZ UP

Quote:


Originally Posted by *knockout100* 
I have the same processor and mobo as you. I just got my system to 3.2 stable. my volts are.

vcore: 1.3
mem: auto
1.2: 1.3
nb: 1.55
sb: 1.5
vtt: 1.55

with the q6600 it seems like anything lower than 1.55 on the nb lowers stability quit a bit, just make you have an aftermarket cooler on your nb at the least, but you should get one for sb too. without one you wont get any kind of stability.

thanks for your reply. ill try these! Im just using the standard rubbish on the nb and sb, can you recommend one that would fit with an SLI setup? Thanks


----------



## Snacuum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


make sure you guys have at least a fan blowing on the nb. Here are my settings:

vcore: 1.35 (might be a little high for 3.825 so will do some testing to lower)
mem: 1.2125 (425 so it's 1:1)
1.2ht: 1.35
nb: 1.45
sb: 1.55
cup vtt: 1.3

Remember though that every board and cpu are different and results vary. It took me months to get me to this point. For me, fsb above 445 would require more nb voltage and a third party chipset cooler. I have a spot cool blowing on my nb right now. With the stock heat pipes and a fan blowing on the nb, the fsb can go to around 430-435 pretty reliably, 435+ would be pushing it. Slimaxpower, what multi and fsb were you using for your e4500?


Aww lame, looks like i'm stuck at this speed with my nb as the bottleneck, I have an xfi card which makes it nigh impossible to fit aftermarket heatsinks, and a CM cosmos case, so no extra fans. And i'm sick of pumping money into this thing!


----------



## WAZZ UP

ok now ive screwed something up :S

set new volts and fsb, when i saved it rebooted the machine and said "updating new cpu and ram tables do not turn off" or something along those lines. It seemed to hang but i left it for 30 minuites and still didnt complete.

So i rebooted the machine and now it doesnt even boot up or POST. Tried resetting cmos jumper and took out battery and still no luck. Think i just screwed up this board lol. Any ideas?


----------



## labeldave

After reading many of the previous posts, it seems that most of us have issues with getting the full potential from our cpu's. Those of us who do, seem to have power supplies that are rated under 600 watts. Maybe its just me, but without further testing with a beefier power supply, I cannot confirm. I can't wait to get my new power supply.

the other trend is proper NB/SB cooling.... Don't expect major overclocking without some adjustment(at your own risk) to these. I use evercools on both and can run NB/SB up to 1.6V easily. Though I don't have too. But I couldn't reach over 3.6 ghz CPU stable without them. They were a little tuff to install, so BE CAREFUL. I will try to post pics of my rig some day.LOL


----------



## alexisd

525 Pages and counting for this great guide and thread.Im still using the same mobo for a long time no problems.Im sure this been a great mobo for some people and a lime for others.But if you read and learn some trick's you can get the best of all you'r componets.You can have a lot of fun in this complicate world of technology.Read and learn for all the new members and keep comming with new found's and trick's they all count.Thank's to Robilar and the group.


----------



## chizzau

ok i've been following this thread for a while but im still a little confused. So could someone help me overclock mine

motherboard: p5n32e sli (obviously)
cpu: e8400 w/ zalman 9700
ram: G. Skill F2-6400CL64D-2GBHK

my cpu idles around 40c
sorry for sounding like a newb and all.


----------



## mica3speedy

it looks like you have the 2x2gb version of my ram. I posted my settings the previous page. Try those out, and follow Robiler's first post about what to disable in the bios. Also make sure you have bios 1404 or later, but I've had best results with 1404.


----------



## angelaers

I OC'd my Q6600 to 3.0GHz and my RAM is at 800Mhz~Though this prove to be unstable since i will get a Blue screen with the message "irql not equal or less than"~ I tried various RAM timing but the problem remains~ even with RAM [email protected]!









BTW : Does the MCP temperature mean anything!~ Cause mine is at 87C!


----------



## chizzau

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
it looks like you have the 2x2gb version of my ram. I posted my settings the previous page. Try those out, and follow Robiler's first post about what to disable in the bios. Also make sure you have bios 1404 or later, but I've had best results with 1404.

i noticed in your setup you said to make sure that i have a fan blowing on the nb, i dont have one thats why i didnt want to try your setup, but i'll give it a go anyway. thanks


----------



## Nutka$e

Hey everybody, long time reader, first time poster. Believe it or not I have read ALL 526 pages of this thread.

Robilar, props on such a great guide!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So here is my delima.





















After doing everysingle thing I could get out of this thread, including upgrading my nb/sb cooling to Evercool VGA coolers, installing a RAM fan, installing swifttech mosfet heatsinks, trying allmost every single bios for this board, including downgrading/upgrading it from 0602 to the newest 1503. I CANNOT oc my Q6600 past 2.83Ghz stable. I have tried every voltage modification based off other q6600's on this forum.

First off, I "think" I know of a few things that might be my problem. And I want to get some of your guys feedback/suggestions. About 8 months ago when I first tried oc'ing my q6600, I came across a post about it was a problem with my motherboad, something about I would have to solder something, and unsolder something else, I was like hell no, i'll just live with the fact of not being able to overclock. Then about 6 months ago I started seeing people post some insane numbers on this same ASUS P5N32-E Sli mother board and their q6600's and was like ***. So I started trying again. I even bought a new 850watt power supply thinking that was the problem. I think I have narrowed it down to;

1) I have the B3 revision instead of the GO revision, BUT, from my understanding all that revision ment was I would have to pump some more voltage to it to get the same OC's as the GO's.

OR

2) I am using 4xCorsair XMS2 CM2X1024-6400C4 ALLTHOUGH I have tried OC'ing with only 2 sticks.

So anyways more of the recent posts have said that the 1503 bios was the best for quads. So I update my bios... And here is what I tried based off those posts.

FSB 1600
8X multi
ram 800 4/4/4/12/2t
vcore - 1.4000 (friggin insane right?)








mem - 2.1
1.2 HT - 1.35
NB - 1.55
SB - 1.55
VTT - 1.55

So my computer posts at 3.2Ghz, windows loads fine, login fine, and system properties says 3.6GHz?!?!? but everest is reading 3.2Ghz. I run prime95 for about 3 minutes, and BAM, one of the threads fails. I have tried ram timings of 5/5/5/18/2t and 5/6/6/19/2t and same thing.























So, even more knowledge for you to chew on before you reply..... I cannot even get a 1333x9 = 3.0Ghz stable. It seems ANYTHING above 2.83Ghz and this computer just laughs at me. Please give me some feedback and let me know some things to try before I let this thing get the best of me. And THANKS in advance!!!!!!!!!!!!

~sorry for such a long post, like I said, I tried everything i could find before posting this a year after trying to OC this thing.


----------



## Nono06

Hello everyone,

I have been reading this thread for a long time and then I finally decided to add my first post (526 pages is clearly not enough







)

As you can guess I have issues with my P5N32 board (bios 1503)
My spec is
-Q6600 B3
-2x8800Ultra SLI
-4x1GO OCZ 800 (can't remember the exact ref) (default is 3-4-4-15)
-x-fi sound card.
-850Watt power supply

I have overclocked the CPU @ 3.2Ghz (sounds quite reasonable) and RAM to 925Mhz with CAS changed to 4. (I tried even underclocking to 712Mhz the ram but results were the same)

If I run OCCT in mixed mode (RAM+CPU) everything is fine for more than 1 hour but as soon as I play a new gen game (like warhead for example) the PC freezes after 15mins.

Here are my voltage settings:
-Vcore: 1.45 (I have a big Zalman fan)
-HT: 1.30
-NB: 1.50 (with 40mm fan on top of default heat sink)
-SB: 1.50
-VTT: 1.55
I also have a 20cm Antec fan blowing directly on graphic cards and NB.

I also tried to remove any kind of overclocking on PCI-E or MCP->SPP HT bus without a success.

Do you have any idea on what could be wrong?
I used have the same kind of issue with the 1203 bios but it was happening less often.

Thanks in advance


----------



## Nono06

Hey guys,

I was so tired to try one thing after the other that I decided to reduce all the voltages at min value (except VTT and core) and see what happen and it is working much better








-stable OCTT v2.0.1 during 1h, 1h stable under Warhead, vantage loop x3 run is ok.

I really got the feeling that this motherboard does not like high voltage on RAM. Spec is at 2.4volts which a bit high compare to others modules, right?

So just in case someone (maybe you Nutka$e







) has the same problem as me here are my settings:

Voltages:
-Vcore:1.45v
-Mem:2.35v (maybe lower is OK but not tried yet)
-HT:1.2v
-NB:1.45v
-SB:1.50v
-VTT:1.55v
-ref Ram controller: MemVDD/2-30mV
-ref canal A: MemVDD/2-30mV
-ref canal B: MemVDD/2-30mV

Clocks:
-125Mhz ref clocks for PCI-E 1,2,3
-250Mhz ref clock MCP->SPP
-FSB: 356Mhz, Mem: 925Mhz with 4-3-3-8 timings (cmd: 2 clocks)
-CPU mult: x9
-LDT mult: x6 (non negligeable impact on Vantage results: x1 extrat -> +300 points)

Moreover, "disable bit", "virtualisation", "HPET", "SLI-broadcast" and "GPUEx" are all Active.

A+


----------



## labeldave

Well, I finally got a decent power supply... I went with the PCP&C 750W QUAD. It's a great power supply. I have gotten my e8400 stable at 3.96 and I'm still testing. I couldn't get stable over 3.8ghz before. Still more testing to come. When I feel I've reached the full potential of what I want, I will post my specs. Thanks to everyone here.


----------



## R.I.P

somebody used bios 1601 ? - ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/asus/mb/so...P5N32-E%20SLI/


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robilar* 
Here are some pics of my aftermarket cooling and the space limitations of a sound card in the middle slot with SLI.

This thread has been extremely helpful and inspiring. Through reading much of the information given here, I finally felt confident enough to achieve some of the overclocking Iâ€™ve been wanted to. After reading a few pages here, I immediately ordered a pair of those coolers and 4gb of Corsair Dominator PC2 8500. I feel obligated to give back to the thread by sharing some of my feats with the cooling uprades Iâ€™ve done to my P5N32-E SLI PLUS.

I also used a pair of Thermaltake CL-C0034 Extreme Spirit II North Bridge (northbridge) and South Bridge (southbridge) fan and heatsinks. However, I attached them to the existing stock heat pipe cooling system on my P5N32-E SLI PLUS motherboard by removing the cooling fins over the north bridge and the Ai Lifestyle shield over the south bridge so the stock heat pipe system can still work as a team with the upgraded system I created.

I will also show how a Creative X-Fi or Audigy2 zs card can still fit next to the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II south bridge cooler and with two GTX 260 cards in SLI 2-way. Even though I opted not to do this as I am fully satisfied with the stock AMR card that came with my P5N32-E SLI PLUS, I still wanted to see if it could be done. Yes there will be pictures.

After removing the stock copper heat pipe cooling system with a pair of small needle nosed pliers pushing the plastic retainer pins back through and out, I cleaned off the old and dried up thermal compound I found on the underside of the stock cooling blocks, cleaned the surfaces and applied Arctic Silver 5(See Image 1) on the necessary surfaces. Starting with the South Bridge, I removed the â€œAi Lifestyleâ€ Shield(See Image 2) from the stock heat pipe block. Then using some longer bolts I purchased matching the thread size of the hardware supplied with the Extreme Spirit II coolers, I reattached the stock south bridge heatpipe cooler. Notice the clearance available over the stock block here(See Image 3 â€" Image 4).

Now before I installed the Extreme Spirit II I went ahead and trimmed the fins on one side using a small carbide tipped circular saw blade(See Image 5). Here is a close up of the trimmed fins(See Image 6). With the corner edges of those fins shaved off, I was able to mount the Extreme Spirit II at a slight angle allowing for airflow in the direction I desired. These next two pictures show how the Extreme Spirit II fits along side a GTX 260 above(See Image 7) and below(See Image 8) it. I also fancied a small heat shield out of an aluminum can(See Image 9) that I will use to protect the 2nd GTX 260 I intend to purchase in the near future. I donâ€™t know if it will help protect that bottom GTX 260 from the heat generated by the south bridge chip or not, but I know it wonâ€™t hurt. That is the whole reason I trimmed the corners and mounted at an angle in the 1st place, because I didnâ€™t want it to blast hot air directly on the back of the bottom GTX 260 core. Mounting the Extreme Spirit II on the south bridge was challenging, but with a stubborn diligence to make it work, I was able to make a custom bracket out of an old expansion slot shield(See Image 10) with a pair of 8 Inch needle nosed pliers, a vice grip, some tin snips, a cordless drill and a black Sharpie. The upper end of the bracket needed to be bent down so the securing nut would still clearance the back of the upper GTX 260. Have another look here(See Image 11). And of course hereâ€™s an up close look at how the south bridge Extreme Spirit II upgrade turned out(See Image 12).

Mentioned briefly in the very beginning of this thread was information stating that the Extreme Spirit II on the south bridge will interfere with a Creative X-Fi or Audigy2 zs card in the coinciding PCI slot. This is not so. It will absolutely work if you mount the fan on the other side of the heatsink(See Image 13). This may not have been so with the 8800GTXs, but there is a bit more room available using GTX 260s as the fan section is inset quite differently. The Extreme Spirit II would need to be lowered down approximately 3/16th inches towards the bottom of the board. However, this will not effect the efficiency of the Extreme Spirit II as itâ€™s heat pipe cooling block will completely cover your south bridge chip at this lower mounting point and with the fully adjustable install kit, this was easily achieved. I took special care in lining everything up so I could verify this satisfying my curiosity. Furthermore, I wanted to point out that if desired, one could easily upgrade the 40mm X 40mm X 10mm fan included with the Extreme Spirit II with any 40mm X 40mm X 20mm fan, either by mounting it on the opposite side of the heatsink(See Image 14), or by predrilling a new hole to relocate the screw(See Image 15).

Okay with the south bridge upgrade complete, Iâ€™ll move on to the easy part being that the north bridge doesnâ€™t have any clearance issued to worry about. My plan was to have the fan blow the air through the heatsink in the same direction as my Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro all to be sucked out the rear of my case with my rear exhaust fan. I removed the stock north bridge copper heat pipe cooling system the same way I did with the south bridge saving the black plastic clips for who knows what. Then I secured it with screws to the side of my project countertop flush to the top allowing me to make a clean flat and straight cut removing the stock fins from the block(See Image 16). After sticking some very fine grit sand paper to a long sanding block, I cleaned up any imperfections the saw made making sure to create a very flat surface to mount the Extreme Spirit II cooler to(See Image 17). Here is a close up of how the north bridge Extreme Spirit II upgrade turned out(See Image 18). Iâ€™m super happy with how everything turned out. Here, you can see how I was able to retain the stock mosfet cooling(See Image 19). After upgrading my CPU cooler, I was unable to use the top ASUS cooling fan, so I ordered a couple of 30mm case fans that screwed perfectly into the top mosfet cooling heatsink.

Here are some pictures of the finished product. (Image 20 â€" Image 21 â€" Image 22 â€" Image 23) And here is a final look at the P5N32-E SLI PLUS with the dual Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II coolers mounted back in the case. (Image 24 â€" Image 25 â€" Image 26 â€" Image 27)

Please donâ€™t make fun of my thermal paste mess under these two Extreme Spirit II coolers. I lost the Arctic Silver 5 after reinstalling the stock heatpipe system. I was forced to use the included ceramic thermal paste between the Extreme Spirit II blocks and the stock blocks and did not expect it to act the way it did. Lesson learned. However, at the end of my addition to this thread, you will be able to see the outstanding results Iâ€™ve had using this cooling system. I am thoroughly impressed with the included ceramic thermal paste.

Furthermore, after studying many of the new products out for now by ASUS, I can see how this very same approach Iâ€™ve taken can be implemented into upgrading the stock heatpipe cooling systems on nearly all of their products; including the P5Q, P5K, P5E and even the P5N series motherboards. I havenâ€™t been lucky enough to see up close and personal their very high end boards, but from the pictures Iâ€™ve seen at newegg, it looks as though this very same Extreme Spirit II can be used with only slight modifications to those as well.
Keep in mind that this type of modification will obviously void the warrantee, but to me itâ€™s more than worth it.

Tools used: Screw Drivers â€" Two sizes of Needle Nosed Pliers â€" Vice Grip Pliers â€" Razor Blade/Utility Knife â€" Palm Sander â€" Fine Sand Paper â€" Large Sanding Block â€" Circular Saw with Carbide Tipped Blade â€" Cordless Drill â€" 1/8â€ Drill Bit â€" Tin Snips â€" Steady Hands

Have a friend help hold a circular saw steady for you if you donâ€™t feel comfortable doing it on your own. Youâ€™ll need all your fingers to get those frags. A good carbide tip blade is all you need and the more teeth, the better. I used to install Sun Rooms/Solariums made out of aluminum, so I am quite accustomed to working with metal. I knew Copper was very similar to Aluminum as far as cutting goes, so I went for it.

And here are my results(See Image 28). As you can see, I like to keep my other monitor on so I can keep an eye on the system. I remember with my previous 7950s that SLI mode will disable the other monitor while gaming though. Iâ€™ll have to use the annoying alarms then; not that I need them anymore. With the help of Robilar and the rest of this thread, I was able to get my FSB to 410(1640). I did lower my multiplier to 8 until I get my E8500 next week I picked up from mwave.com for $186 + Free Shipping. Otherwise, at a 9 multiplier with my E6600, I maxed out the FSB at 378(1512) and the CPU at 3402MHz. I canâ€™t wait to play with my new CPU! As far as my cooling results goes, depending on what the ambient room temperature is, wherever the motherboard temperature idles at, which is usually 28C to 31C, is right where it will stay, whether Iâ€™m sitting on the internet, or playing Crysis for 10 hours straight. It doesnâ€™t budge more than a single degree. Now those are some impressive results!


----------



## Cobra652

Pls help me somebody!
I know,this is p5n32-e topic,but bios,and MB is same,with little difference..
My overlocking is fail..
Cant reach 3.6ghz...I'll try to raise fsb (bus speed to 1600-->fsb400),like people say-->easy to 3.6ghz...
But i cant.
Disabled anything (spectrums,etcetc) in bios,try to raise voltages...Nothing.
I cant reach 3.6 ghz.
The system runs stable at 3.49 ghz (All voltages auto,bus 1550),but if i raise the bus speed to 1560 i need to raise all voltages.
Busspeed 1560 maybe stable,but if i raise it to 1570 i cant get stable oc...I'll try raising anything,trying other peoples bios setting...Nothing..
For example:
Bus 1600 mhz (400 fsb)
Vcore : 1.35 ('ill try to raise it,no help)
1.2v ht: 1.35
Nb: 1.4 (try to lower adn raising it,no help)
Sb: 1.50)
Vtt: 1.35 (lower/raise..nohelp..)
....
Any idea?
Thx,and sorry for bad english


----------



## Paraleyes

Did you follow Robilar's tips on this thread? I was hitting 3.4GHz easy with my E6600. You should be able to blow that away with your CPU. The only advise I can give you is to check and monitor your temps. The cooler you can get your system, the faster you can OC. At least that's been my take so far as I'm still learning too. Check my last post for a sweet cooling upgrade. Best of luck!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cobra652*


Pls help me somebody!
I know,this is p5n32-e topic,but bios,and MB is same,with little difference..
My overlocking is fail..
Cant reach 3.6ghz...I'll try to raise fsb (bus speed to 1600-->fsb400),like people say-->easy to 3.6ghz...
But i cant.
Disabled anything (spectrums,etcetc) in bios,try to raise voltages...Nothing.
I cant reach 3.6 ghz.
The system runs stable at 3.49 ghz (All voltages auto,bus 1550),but if i raise the bus speed to 1560 i need to raise all voltages.
Busspeed 1560 maybe stable,but if i raise it to 1570 i cant get stable oc...I'll try raising anything,trying other peoples bios setting...Nothing..
For example:
Bus 1600 mhz (400 fsb)
Vcore : 1.35 ('ill try to raise it,no help)
1.2v ht: 1.35
Nb: 1.4 (try to lower adn raising it,no help)
Sb: 1.50)
Vtt: 1.35 (lower/raise..nohelp..)
....
Any idea?
Thx,and sorry for bad english


----------



## Cobra652

I'll try everithing...
I'll read,e8400 on this MB easily OC to 3.6ghz with all voltages AUTO,and raise fsb to 400....
I'll try it,and try to change voltages...Nothing,i cant raise to 3.6ghz...
Temps are low....I have no idea what the problem is...


----------



## SLIMaxPower

cobra,

the e8400's don't like high volts, turn all your auto's off and set volts manually.

here's mine e8400 EO @ 3.93Ghz so far

cpu 1.26v
ht 1.2 1.35
nb 1.55
sb 1.55
vtt 1.55
ram 2.2

I have had this cpu for three weeks and initally tried to push it hard 4.5Ghz from day one (system is watercooled) and aftermarket cooling on chipsets etc.

As I said above these cpus hate voltage. I have run from what I am on now 1.26v way up to 1.45v. The more volts I push the less stable this CPU seems to become.


----------



## Cobra652

SLIM:
Thx,i'll try your voltage settings on 1600 mhz(400mhz),cant reach 3.6ghz...
In bios,save settings,reboot..Monitor turns off,then turns on,and nothing....
'Ill try,all voltages AUTO,Vcore 1.26 - 1.30....Nothing...
Memory is unlinked, 800mhz...
Spectrums off,other options (Enhanced intel,step,etc)...


----------



## Cobra652

Is there any program to test motherboard and cpu (working or error)? Both are new, Ram is new too,but i'll test it with memtest (6hours) and with windows memory diagnostic--> No errors.


----------



## Cobra652

Hm,I'm trying to change my cooler back to stock,no help...
After CMOS reset.set this in bios:

Fsb: 400 (1600)
Core: 1.26
Ht: 1.35
NB:1.50
sb:1.50
Vtt:1.55
Save,restart...System booting,and then freezing on windows start.
Trying this settings on fsb 1550...System works perfectly...
On 1600,voltage raising/decrease not help..
I say maybe an FSB Hole,so trying to raise fsb...No help,from 1650 fsb the system wont start with any bios settings...


----------



## drmartin48106

anyone have a P5N32-E for sale...

I think i killed mine. added a SATA card would not boot (no video no light on keyboard). removed card still nothing. durring truble shooting removed everything, all drives and cards (and memory: hopping to get it to squawk)

does anyone have to bios sound codes? which pins to plug in a system speaker?
any suggestions would be helpful.


----------



## Paraleyes

Last I checked Tiger Direct was the last place that had them for sale.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


anyone have a P5N32-E for sale...

I think i killed mine. added a SATA card would not boot (no video no light on keyboard). removed card still nothing. durring truble shooting removed everything, all drives and cards (and memory: hopping to get it to squawk)

does anyone have to bios sound codes? which pins to plug in a system speaker?
any suggestions would be helpful.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


anyone have a P5N32-E for sale...

I think i killed mine. added a SATA card would not boot (no video no light on keyboard). removed card still nothing. durring truble shooting removed everything, all drives and cards (and memory: hopping to get it to squawk)

does anyone have to bios sound codes? which pins to plug in a system speaker?
any suggestions would be helpful.


http://www.canadacomputers.com/index...998&cid=MB.157

They are fairly easy to get in Canada.


----------



## drmartin48106

thanks for the links but are either unavailable or in-store only. still looking to troubleshoot mine (cross my fingers).

I managed to get a speaker and am starting to hear codes.
one long two short: with no memory in it (yes I know it will not boot but needed a startig point)
constant beep: with memory (with or without video)

Any suggestions. I would hate to dumpmonty on a mobo if its cpu.


----------



## Cobra652

Now i have a problem...
I say that,i cant reach 3.6 ghz,but system is stable at 3480.
Now not...At stock fsb,and stock voltages system works perfectly,but if i raise fsb its freezing...
1 days ago i have a full stable light oc with 1550 fsb (387.5) on:
Vcore: 1.21
Ht: 1.25
Nb: 1.3
Sb: 1.5
Vtt: 1.25
Prime and Ultima running well on it to hours...
But today...I cant start the system at this clock speed,windows freezing.
Coretemp and ultima says (if i can run them before freezing) Cpu0: 37c cpu1:39c.....
I'll try raise/decrease voltages...No,my stable 3480mhz is not stable anymore...
If i raising the fsb,system freezing.
So what is the problem: the cpu or the motherboard will die??


----------



## Paraleyes

I just installed my E8500 and hit 4.0GHz on my 1st try, but jumped it back down to 3.8GHz due to high CPU temps during game play. My E8500 is pretty much the exact same CPU as your E8400 except with a 9.5 Multiplier rather than the 9 Multiplier on your E8400 at which case is the exact same target you are trying to hit:
E8500 @ 9.5 Multiplier X FSB 400MHz(1600MHz) = 3800MHz(3.8GHz)
E8400 @ 9.0 Multiplier X FSB 400MHz(1600MHz) = 3600MHz(3.6GHz)
I'm sharing this information only to varify your findings in that you should very well be able to hit your target 3.6GHz with that CPU.

This is what you should need:
Excellent Cooling for your MB/Chipset
Please see my "POST #5260" on this thread for cooling tips








Excellent Cooling for your CPU
Tons of fair options here under $40
Excellent Thermal Paste Properly Installed
Always use Arctic Silver 5 on your CPU
Updated BIOS
1104 is working great for me so far
Follow Robilar's Guidlines per "POST #1" on this Thread
Top of the Line RAM
This could very well be your problem. Although your memory is high end, it is not SLI Certified, or SLI Ready for that matter. Try only running one of those 8800 graphics cards for a few test runs??? Honestly, I don't know if this is your problem, but I would google into it if I were you. Especially if everything else is checking out in this little list. I am using 4GB Corsair Dominator PC2 8500. It seems to do okay at around 1100MHz with no Fan. How far are you pushing your OCZ Reapers? 800MHz is the memory standard for that board. Try clocking them back down to 800MHz while testing your FSB/CPU. Then worry about maxing out your memory frequency/speed and timings.
Hope this helps. Maybe your board is getting tired?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cobra652*


Pls help me somebody!
I know,this is p5n32-e topic,but bios,and MB is same,with little difference..
My overlocking is fail..
Cant reach 3.6ghz...I'll try to raise fsb (bus speed to 1600-->fsb400),like people say-->easy to 3.6ghz...
But i cant.
Disabled anything (spectrums,etcetc) in bios,try to raise voltages...Nothing.
I cant reach 3.6 ghz.
The system runs stable at 3.49 ghz (All voltages auto,bus 1550),but if i raise the bus speed to 1560 i need to raise all voltages.
Busspeed 1560 maybe stable,but if i raise it to 1570 i cant get stable oc...I'll try raising anything,trying other peoples bios setting...Nothing..
For example:
Bus 1600 mhz (400 fsb)
Vcore : 1.35 ('ill try to raise it,no help)
1.2v ht: 1.35
Nb: 1.4 (try to lower adn raising it,no help)
Sb: 1.50)
Vtt: 1.35 (lower/raise..nohelp..)
....
Any idea?
Thx,and sorry for bad english


----------



## Paraleyes

Hmmm... So how do I delete a duplicate post?


----------



## Cobra652

Okay...
Clearing cmos will help...
Ram speed is unlinked, 800mhz at 1.95....
Now my system running :
3480 Mhz
All voltages AUTO (in bios Voltage monitor says: 1.28, 1.9, 1.24, 1.30. 1.50,1.34)...
System works, prime 95 killed it after 30-40minute (HARDWARE STOPPED,CONSULT YOUR ....)
If a change voltage settings,prime 95 freeze the system on 1-2 minute...
Memories need 2.15v on 1066 mhz.
The mobo support 800 mhz...2 days ago my system works fine on 900 Mhz ramspeed with 2.0 voltage setting....Now freezing with it...
Tomorrow i'll try the cpu and rams on a P5E mobo,to see that works...

But till then any idea? Is the mobo,the cpu or the ram bad?


----------



## Paraleyes

Good idea. Set your RAM to 2.1 and 800MHz until you get the system how you want it. This will eliminate your memory as your problem. I would even try using one stick or the other temporarily until you get your CPU/FSB happy together. Your memory does not have anything to do with your CPU speed. You need to change the FSB for that. You could even use some old PC2 6400 if it is known to be stable RAM. -At least for testing your CPU/FSB speeds.

Then follow the 1st post on this thread and you should be set.

Oh, and your system was freezing now with memory at 900MHz because you need to disable all the crap in the BIOS and change your voltages 1st.


----------



## Cobra652

I disable anything,what was in the first post...
On 800 mhz,if i raise voltage to 2.1 or 2v to ram,system freezing (all other fsb/voltage stock).
If memory on 800mhz,AUTO voltage (1.9),all voltages AUTO,Fsb stock,system stable..
If memory 800mhz voltage auto, raising fsb to reach 3480 mhz voltages AUTO, Prime95 freezin the system after 20-30 minutes....
And,if memory 800mhz (AUTO voltage), cpu 3480 mhz,and i raise/decrease anything in bios,system freezing......
If i waiting to cool down the system,and then start,the freezing is later...


----------



## Cobra652

Oh,1more thing.
A tried the system with only 1 graphic card..No help.
Tomorrow i trying the processor and the rams on a P5e....
On p5e,rams need to run at 1066mhz on 2.1v...
If running,then the ram is good,not?
Ill trying another rams too tomorrow...
But if in p5e (with all other hardware,like psu,ect is from my system) the system freezing,and cant reach 3.6ghz without problem,then my processor is dead,or what?
Thx


----------



## Paraleyes

I would recommend testing your memory before you up and buy new DIMMs. Use MemTest86 for starters and hopefully eliminate that as your problem. You'll have an easier go at figuring out all your overclocking with only one graphics card installed, especially without using SLI Certified RAM. If you have $100+ laying around, I would definitely buy some for SLI compatibility.

Here are your newegg options.


----------



## Cobra652

'ill running memtest86 after buying the hardware-s and install...
Running to 6 hours,nothing to find...

Now i say 1 more thing.
Every options disabled like in the first post.
Every voltages AUTO, Overlock setting AUTO.
Works fine,prime95 running to 1-2 hour without problem.
Overlock settings change to MANUAL,restart...
I see in voltage monitor: all voltages raised (memory not)...
I changing voltages to stock,set fsb to 1333,and ram 800 unlinked.
System works well.
Raised the ram voltage up to 2.15v system works well.
Now,raised the memory to 950/930/900 on 2.15v, every other voltages stock--> No/no/no....System not starting/freezing.
Okay,then i change ram preferences linked. --> now its on 930 mhz (2.15v),system starts perfectly (unlinked 930-->system not start)...But freezing on prime95...
Trying to decrease ram voltage,but freezing...
On 800mhz with 2.15v the system is working perfectly...
So now:
All stock--> system works.
3480mhz with 800mhz ram (1.8v-2.20) works,prime freezing in 1-2 hour.
3480mhz with unlinked 900/930/950mhz (1.8-2.20) not start..
3480mhz with linked 930 Mhz (1.8-2.20) high voltages freezing,low voltages lagging..
I'll trying to oc wth only 1 videocard.no help...
Oh,and my cpu (1550) was 38C on 0% load and go to max 51-52 on prime95 running..
So its not cpu overheating..


----------



## Razbojnik

Hey

I have this motherboard, and a E8500 CPU..
I had to update my BIOS to the newest 1601, in order to use my CPU..
But it overclocks really bad !
I can't get past 387 fsb
Vcore 1,3
1,2 VT 1,25
NB 1,3
VTT 1,3,

It's the jump from 1550 to 1555 it cant take !
I had my Vcore at 1,4, my NB at 1,55 my VTT at 1,55 and still nothing ?

I also have a issue with my second PCI 16x lane. It simply dosen't work, so I am using the middle PCI Express port for my second 8800GT.
When I put it in the second PCi 16x lane, it won't boot. Everything is on, the fans, the motherboard, the HDD, but it wont boot ?

Hope you guys can help








/Razbojnik


----------



## Cobra652

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Razbojnik* 
Hey

I have this motherboard, and a E8500 CPU..
I had to update my BIOS to the newest 1601, in order to use my CPU..
But it overclocks really bad !
I can't get past 387 fsb
Vcore 1,3
1,2 VT 1,25
NB 1,3
VTT 1,3,

It's the jump from 1550 to 1555 it cant take !
I had my Vcore at 1,4, my NB at 1,55 my VTT at 1,55 and still nothing ?

I also have a issue with my second PCI 16x lane. It simply dosen't work, so I am using the middle PCI Express port for my second 8800GT.
When I put it in the second PCi 16x lane, it won't boot. Everything is on, the fans, the motherboard, the HDD, but it wont boot ?

Hope you guys can help








/Razbojnik

Welcome to the club!








I have striker extreme (same) and cant i cant past 1550...


----------



## Razbojnik

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cobra652*


Welcome to the club!








I have striker extreme (same) and cant i cant past 1550...










Aren't there any other BIOS, other then the 1601 that supports the 45nm CPU's on this board ?
Cuz I blame the BIOS for the "bad" overclock possibilities..


----------



## Cobra652

Okay,now...
I said that,i try my e8400+rams on another motherboard (P5e).
On p5e,i can easy OC the system to 3.6ghz,witj just fsb raise (vcore is standard)/1230mhz of rams,working perfectly without freezing...
So my asus striker extreme is not oc friendly...Or on new revision,its have **** chips...
On striker extreme,i can oc only to 3480 mhz (1550)...Any other settings --> freezing/not booting....
Ill trying lots of bios,no help....
So thx for lots of helps,but it lightened up that--> my strike extreme is not OC friend...


----------



## mica3speedy

for those of you stuck at 1550, I would play with your fsb and multi some. the nvidia chipsets are known to have fsb holes, where it's unstable at say 1550 fsb, but would be stable at 1600 fsb. I'm currently at 1700 stable 24/7







. I'm using bios 1404 btw.


----------



## Grimm0ne

Hi, New here, google showed me the way









anyways, i've been trying to get help with overclocking my Striker with q6600 (G0 step) and I got help but i think the voltages are bit high, as with reading a few pages here out of this mega thread.

Vcore Voltage: 1.45
Memory : 2.1
1.2v HT: 1.65
NB Core : 1.55
SB Core : 1.65
Cpu Vtt : 1.5

currently running 1600FSB(400x8) at multiplyer at 8 netting me just a smidge over 3.2ghz. I just think the voltages are a bit high, what do you think? Also running 1603 in the bios. I just turned every thing down back to stock till i get this figured out.


----------



## Spielberg

hey guys! I want to buy 4GB memory kit for my mb(P5N32-E). What kit if memory will be better 4x1 or 2x2?


----------



## Robilar

2x2, the 680i boards don't play well with 4x1gb


----------



## Grimm0ne

anyone want to tell me a good spot to put the voltages for my overclock???


----------



## pifive

I am on the same boat as you. Well I have the p5n32 e sli plus .. is striker xtreme little brother. I only found stable overclock with high voltages on NB and HT and VTT.

What are your NB and SB temps?


----------



## Grimm0ne

i forgot to look at the NB and SB temps, im not sure if i want to do it again with thouse voltages lol.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Spielberg*


hey guys! I want to buy 4GB memory kit for my mb(P5N32-E). What kit if memory will be better 4x1 or 2x2?


I am using Corsair Dominator 4 X 1GB and I'm stable at 400(1600) X 9.5 = 3.8GHz CPU on my P5N32-E SLI Plus. I'm also using all the voltages and settings listed by Robilar in the 1st page of this thead. The RAM runs stable just under 1100MHz. Oh, and Spielberg, buy that Corsair Fan seperate from Tiger Direct and save a bundle! Don't buy the kit with the fan included. You'll lose $$$!

My CPU is a little warm, but I'm comfortable with it. My MB temps never go over 31C even under load. Check out my thread on custom MB air cooling for this board: http://www.overclock.net/cooling-exp...ml#post4936116


----------



## Spielberg

Thanks for help guys I'll buy OCZ DIMM 4096MB DDR II 800MHz OCZ2RPX800EB4GK ReaperX I think it's the best choice for me. I have very good air cooling of my mb


----------



## ACHILEE5

Hi, got this board coming and wanted to know, will my Kingston pc2-6400 2gb ram work? 
Thanks
gary


----------



## Grimm0ne

welp i give up, stuck at 3.2ghx with 8x multi (400x8). cant get it to do anything past that. I guess ill live with it till the next upgrade.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5* 
Hi, got this board coming and wanted to know, will my Kingston pc2-6400 2gb ram work?
Thanks
gary









Yes Kingston will work. I'd get some PC2 8500 though while RAM is as cheap as it is right now. Check out my previous post for what I my recommend. Good luck!


----------



## ACHILEE5

Thanks dude, rep+ ;-)


----------



## labeldave

Well, I got my e8600 already up to 4.4ghz on 1.38v. Works awesome. But my ram needs to be real loose on timings and frequency. I'm not liking my corsair right now. So I purchased some crucial ballistixs to try. We'll see what happens. I'm shooting for 4.7ghs on my chip and over 1000mhz on my ram.


----------



## mica3speedy

very nice







. Personally I can't justify going from an e8400 to e8600. Good luck, and post your settings when you have a chance. Which bios are you using? I was debating getting the latest bios, but I haven't heard anything on it yet.


----------



## underdog1425

How well does this board perform with a tri-sli configuration? I know one of the slots only operates at 8x where the other two are full 16x, but how big of a difference is that really?

....thinking of digging my old p5n32-e out of the closet


----------



## mica3speedy

Vista users, stay away from bios 1601. I tried it, and couldn't get into windows. It would stay and the loading screen. In safe mode it would stay at the crc.sys file. I tried to do a repair, but that didn't do anything. I reverted back to bios 1404, and windows loaded up fine.


----------



## underdog1425

Sounds brutal. Good thing I don't use vista as of yet. Still wondering how this board does in TRI sli and quad CPU overclocking. I'm not in need of any crazy FSB speeds, just around 410 or so for my Q6600. I had it up to I think 440 when I was OCing my E6600 on this board, and it was on air and rock solid.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *underdog1425*


Sounds brutal. Good thing I don't use vista as of yet. Still wondering how this board does in TRI sli and quad CPU overclocking. I'm not in need of any crazy FSB speeds, just around 410 or so for my Q6600. I had it up to I think 440 when I was OCing my E6600 on this board, and it was on air and rock solid.


I don't believe this board supports tri-sli. I know for a fact it does support quad-sli. However, if you have the money for tri-sli, why not buy a 780i board, or 790i, or even x58 board for that matter and get the PCI-Exrpress 2.0 along with it? Besides, quad-sli is an old idea already as a single GTX 200 series VGA will out perform a GX2. I believe the center PCI-E slot was intended for a physics card and even those are an old idea as nvidia has implemented that technology into their new products. I hope that helps.


----------



## underdog1425

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Paraleyes*


I don't believe this board supports tri-sli. I know *for a fact it does support quad-sli.* However, if you have the money for tri-sli, why not buy a 780i board, or 790i, or even x58 board for that matter and get the PCI-Exrpress 2.0 along with it? Besides, quad-sli is an old idea already as a single GTX 200 series VGA will out perform a GX2. I believe the center PCI-E slot was intended for a physics card and even those are an old idea as nvidia has implemented that technology into their new products. I hope that helps.












Looks like only 3 slots to me.

The reason I ask is that I have one of these boards sitting in it's rma box..just hanging out. My current setup is x48, unsuitable to sli. No need to buy a 780i board or x58 if I've got this guy hanging out for free (for all intents and purposes that is).

Not to be 'sensitive' or anything, but that post felt a little condescending.

1 GTX 200 card > 1 9 series card....really? really?

I need tri sli, because I will be programming in C++ to use the multi core processing of nvidia's CUDA. If this board is apparently capable of Quad, even better. The more SP's the better.

The money part....call me a snob, but the cheapest XFX gtx200 series card is still $260...that's a bit more than the $189 for a 9800GTX+ of the same brand. Plus, I have a special deal on FC waterblocks for the 9 cards, far far cheaper than what I would pay for 3 or 4 for the gtx cards.

I just want to see if its possible to take best advantage of the parts that I have...sorry if I came across as ignorant (resulting in your 'educating' post), that wasn't my intention.

There is a method to my madness, I promise


----------



## Paraleyes

1st off underdog1425, I apologize for the tone that came across. I'm just providing you with the best answer I can.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *underdog1425*


Looks like only 3 slots to me.


My box for this MB says: "Dual x16 SLI The NVIDIA nForce SLI chipset supports the NVIDIA Scalable Link Interface (SLI) technology that allows two graphics processing units in a single system." At that time, they implemented a 3rd x8 PCI-E slot intended for physics cards that never really got made other than a few attempts by PNY.

It is quite possible that these boards support TRI-SLI with an updated BIOS, but even at that, you will need an 8800 GTX or better to make it work and I sure wouldn't spend the money to find out for certain, especially with the x8 center slot and the other two slots aren't even 2.0 on this board. TRI-SLI needs two SLI connectors for the three graphics cards to talk. In other words, you will need three graphics cards that each have two SLI ports on them. I can see that you understand this already though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *underdog1425*


1 GTX 200 card > 1 9 series card....really? really?

...TRI sli and quad CPU overclocking.


When you said "quad CPU" my brain read quad-SLI. I thought you were talking about using dual GPU 9800GX2 cards for quad-sli, so when I compared prices, I was referring to those; not just a regular 9800 series cards. And then of course, I guess that's more so called Dual-SLI with Quad-GPU rather than Quad-SLI.
















Quote:



Originally Posted by *underdog1425*


I need tri sli, because I will be programming in C++ to use the multi core processing of nvidia's CUDA. If this board is apparently capable of Quad, even better. The more SP's the better.

I just want to see if its possible to take best advantage of the parts that I have...sorry if I came across as ignorant (resulting in your 'educating' post), that wasn't my intention.


Seriously though, if you need the processing power and if you don't intend to play games, why don't you just get a single Quadro card(FX370 or FX570 For Example)? That and some good PC2 8500, and you'll be set for less than $300!


----------



## underdog1425

Haha thanks! I see where we both got messed up there, np man.

My overall plan is a to keep things from going crazy, so Im staying away from skulltrail style boards...I only want a single cpu level of complexity here. 3 9800GTX+ is the card of choice, but my DFI X48 green board is an ATI board









I really thought about the quadro cards.....but I still play some games between semesters. So my next best option is to go TRI-sli.

I get the vibe that it doesn't seem to be worth it. I may just sell this board and see if I can trade mine + cash for an x58 or just trade for a 780i.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Hi, when i use the % oc i get the message below! Any idea what i shuold do?

[12/15/2008 at 03:09 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 1.55 V
[12/15/2008 at 03:15 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 0.00 V
[12/15/2008 at 03:15 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.26 V
[12/15/2008 at 03:16 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 0.00 V
[12/15/2008 at 03:16 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.26 V
[12/15/2008 at 03:16 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.26 V

Thanks
Gary


----------



## Heim

Hi guys,

Sorry if this has come up before. I read alot of the thread, but 500+ pages is a fair whack of reading! lol.

It seems alot of you guys have not only managed to get the P5N32E SLI to work correctly, but even overclocked it and have it running stable!.

The issue Im having seems to be a typical problem with this board, as I can find many posts complaining about it, but no viable solution!. The machine itself will boot up fine, although much slower than I would have expected. And 'usually' will be able to run all day fine, though does occasionally freeze up (perhaps part of the same problem). The issue comes with shutting down. It seems to take windows roughly 5 minutes to finally shut down. The monitor throws up a message to state theres no signal, the hard drive stops spinning and the USB devises also have no power. However the motherboard and all fans connected to it (case and CPU) do not turn off!. It seems that the MB is unable or unwilling to actually cut the power. An extension to this problem seems to be that holding down the power switch on the front of the machine will not shut it down and the reset button doesnt work. I am 90% certain that these are connected correctly, and I have even 'turned' them to make sure (as in so the description on each connector has faced both towards the middle and outwards). The problem however remains.

Initially this did not seem a 'huge' problem as once the machine was shut down and the hard drive was no longer in use, we could switch it off at the PSU. However this only seems to work for so long before the computer will then fail to start, and it usually takes disconnecting and reconnecting nearly all the components to get any life back out of the machine.

I have tried multiple solutions including:

* different PSU's
* different RAM
* Different graphics card
* different case(!)
* Updating the Bios to nearly every version available (some with disatorous effects)
* Trying all number of different graphic card drivers
* updating windows
* using the windows shutdown command from run, including the -f and all sorts of other letters that have been suggested.
* stopping a number of different services that have been known to cause issues, including the nvidia support one (cant remember exactly what its called now)

I am not really really running short of ideas. The spec of the machine is:

P5NE32 -SLI 680i
Quad core Q6600
2 x 2gig OCZ DDR2 PC2-8000 ReaperX HPC (5-5-5-18)
1 x XFX GeForce 9800 GX2
BFG 800w PSU (including 8 pin connector for both MB and graphics card)
Vista x64

and obviously various other bits like HDD and dvd rom etc.

Now as stated above this runs alot slower than I expected, with slow start ups and slow to load applications (though once they are running they seems to run smooth).

My other machine a:

P5NE SLI
Quad core Q6600
4 gig of various ram sticks (lol)
2 x 8600 GT 512mb
700w PSU (do not remember make)
Vista x64

Runs rings around the other machine. It starts with 20 seconds, shuts down immediately and loads applications quickly. Even when running games, its performance isnt far behind the other machine.

Soooo... all you clever people. Any ideas whats wrong with the top machine? Even if I could just get the shutting down issue sorted, that would be a serious plus and take away alot of the hinderance.

Many thanks to those that made it this far through my essay.


----------



## fuzion2k3

So i'm new to this board (posting at least), but i've been reading for quite some time. I have a few questions for those with the q6600 and the p5n32-e sli board.

I am able to get 3.2ghz with perfect stability on my board and decent temperatures, but i'm seeing some people with 3.6 on the p5n32-e with a q6600. I have read that there are not only some bad FSB holes on this board, but that it simply cannot go beyond a certain point due to it's design, and requires modding. I see some people (for example, burning-skies) who have accomplished 3.6, and i'm wondering if you modded your board?

All i've done so far is pencil mod to fix vdroop, but i'm a bit iffy on taking a soldering iron to my board and was wondering if I could get some advice from those who have done it before on this board or if someone had tricks to hitting 3.6 without modding.

Just to give an overview of what I have:

q6600 g0 @ 3.2 
p5n32-e sli (spirit II's on north and south bus, and pencil modded)
4gb corsair pc8500 1066 (running at 800mhz, just to simplify overclocking glitches)
2 8600 GTS's in SLI
750w PSU

I honestly forget the name of the HS/FAN on my CPU, but it's working well, and my case has plently of air flow so everything is running cool. I ran prime 95 on all 4 cores for a little under 24 hours and coretemp showed the hottest core at around 59c, no errors at all, so i'm sure I could go higher?

Thanks for any help.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


Hi, when i use the % oc i get the message below! Any idea what i shuold do?

[12/15/2008 at 03:09 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 1.55 V
[12/15/2008 at 03:15 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 0.00 V
[12/15/2008 at 03:15 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.26 V
[12/15/2008 at 03:16 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage Abnormal, 0.00 V
[12/15/2008 at 03:16 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.26 V
[12/15/2008 at 03:16 pm] 1.2VHT Voltage become normal, 1.26 V

Thanks 
Gary


Don't use the auto % OC option. It's 1SPOFS! Update your BIOS and follow Robilar's tips on the 1st page of this thread. Also, I noticed you're using the same HSF as I am. Try this upgrade as seen in the included pictures and if you really want to have fun, check out the link in my signature. I'll be connecting the top of my PC to a pipe bringing in this winter air soon, but even without, the simple duct I bent up gave me some very surprising results.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Cheers Dude, i'll have a play
Rep+ ;-)


----------



## underdog1425

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fuzion2k3* 
So i'm new to this board (posting at least), but i've been reading for quite some time. I have a few questions for those with the q6600 and the p5n32-e sli board.

I am able to get 3.2ghz with perfect stability on my board and decent temperatures, but i'm seeing some people with 3.6 on the p5n32-e with a q6600. I have read that there are not only some bad FSB holes on this board, but that it simply cannot go beyond a certain point due to it's design, and requires modding. I see some people (for example, burning-skies) who have accomplished 3.6, and i'm wondering if you modded your board?

All i've done so far is pencil mod to fix vdroop, but i'm a bit iffy on taking a soldering iron to my board and was wondering if I could get some advice from those who have done it before on this board or if someone had tricks to hitting 3.6 without modding.

Just to give an overview of what I have:

q6600 g0 @ 3.2
p5n32-e sli (spirit II's on north and south bus, and pencil modded)
4gb corsair pc8500 1066 (running at 800mhz, just to simplify overclocking glitches)
2 8600 GTS's in SLI
750w PSU

I honestly forget the name of the HS/FAN on my CPU, but it's working well, and my case has plently of air flow so everything is running cool. I ran prime 95 on all 4 cores for a little under 24 hours and coretemp showed the hottest core at around 59c, no errors at all, so i'm sure I could go higher?

Thanks for any help.

3.6 on a Q6600 is only 400mhz FSB x 9 multi....I was running at 440 mhz FSB on a e6600 under manageable temps and these were the only mods to the board that I did...I didn't even pencil-mod it.





































A Q6600 howeverl will require different kinds of volts...I'm not sure about it, but this board hitting 400+ FSB is easy imo.


----------



## cdxsuprace

I flashed the MB to the lastest Bios with USB but for some reasons the MB won't boot up after updating the Bios. There is power on the MB and rams but it just won't boot up. I also reset the bios with the jumper and it still won't work. Anyone have any ideas whats wrong. Thanks.


----------



## fuzion2k3

Thank underdog.

However, i've read this board only has trouble with quads. Everthing else seems to overclock fine, but to achieve more than around 3.2-3.3 i've read you have to mod the board (only for quads). I was hoping that someone who has done this could tell me how difficult it was, if it's worth it, etc etc.

And @ cdxsuprace. Take everything off your motherboard except a single stick of RAM, and you're video card. Remove the CMOS battery and cmos jumper then wait about 5-10 minutes. Put the CMOS/jumper back in and boot up, set you're bios the way you want it and put all you're stuff back in. Should be fine. I had the same problem when I updated to the latest about a week ago.


----------



## underdog1425

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fuzion2k3* 
Thank underdog.

However, i've read this board only has trouble with quads. Everthing else seems to overclock fine, but to achieve more than around 3.2-3.3 i've read you have to mod the board (only for quads). I was hoping that someone who has done this could tell me how difficult it was, if it's worth it, etc etc.

And @ cdxsuprace. Take everything off your motherboard except a single stick of RAM, and you're video card. Remove the CMOS battery and cmos jumper then wait about 5-10 minutes. Put the CMOS/jumper back in and boot up, set you're bios the way you want it and put all you're stuff back in. Should be fine. I had the same problem when I updated to the latest about a week ago.

Ooooh, well good luck!


----------



## novastar

hi all

a friend of mine is having some overheating problems he took it to a pc repair shop but thay can't fix it so i'm going to have a look i'm going to reseat the cpu's heat sink and give it a clean and check all the case fans, can any one think of any thing els i should check, and could the on board monitoring not working and is there any way to check the temp another way.
not sure of all the components in his system
asus Striker Extreme
Quad-core Processor, not sure witch one at the mo
ram ocz reaper 
2x raptorsThermalright Ultra-120 Extreme cooling
and i think he has 2 8800 ultras

so can any one give some advice please


----------



## novastar

can a core 2 stocke cooler from a core 2 E8600 fit on a core 2 extreme QX6800 so i can check to see if the tuniq cooler is working ok, as to see if temp of QX6800 will go down, the QX6800 is running at stock at the mo


----------



## fuzion2k3

@novastar

First off, what makes him/you believe he's having overheating issues? Is the bios reporting this, realtemp? I would say you are moving in the right direction with reseating the HS/FAN but make sure you clean off all existing thermal paste from both before reapplying. You may also want to check the case fans, make sure they are seated correctly/facing the right way so that warm air is being filtered out opposite the direction cold air is being filtered in.

If you are judging overheating by the temps on the NB/SB you might want to invest in after market cooling on those.

And as for the core 2 cooler test, as long as it's socket 775 it will fit socket 775, it's just a matter of how well will it cool the processor.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Hi, still useing the % overclocker but would like to overclock manualy








So here are a couple of pic that i took! If you can see problems at the settings, please let me know!
Thanks
Gary


----------



## novastar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fuzion2k3* 
@novastar

First off, what makes him/you believe he's having overheating issues? Is the bios reporting this, realtemp? I would say you are moving in the right direction with reseating the HS/FAN but make sure you clean off all existing thermal paste from both before reapplying. You may also want to check the case fans, make sure they are seated correctly/facing the right way so that warm air is being filtered out opposite the direction cold air is being filtered in.

If you are judging overheating by the temps on the NB/SB you might want to invest in after market cooling on those.

And as for the core 2 cooler test, as long as it's socket 775 it will fit socket 775, it's just a matter of how well will it cool the processor.

hi fuzion2k3

the motherboard temp is ok it's just the cpu thats hot, i have the pc now the HS was a little loose the fan for the HS was facing to the front of the case that now facing to the back of the case, the to back case fans are ok thay are facing the right way but the 3 front fans were also blowing air out, thay are now now blowing air into the case, the temps for the core 2 extreme QX6800 has come down now from around 70c to nearly hitting 80c to around 55c to 60c i still think that to hi what do you think.
all temps were in windows and i used CoreTemp to get the readings, also all speed are at stock speeds


----------



## cdxsuprace

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fuzion2k3*


And @ cdxsuprace. Take everything off your motherboard except a single stick of RAM, and you're video card. Remove the CMOS battery and cmos jumper then wait about 5-10 minutes. Put the CMOS/jumper back in and boot up, set you're bios the way you want it and put all you're stuff back in. Should be fine. I had the same problem when I updated to the latest about a week ago.



I did that and still not working. All I hear when I turn on the pc is a loooong beep then stop then another looooong beep. What does those beeps mean?


----------



## stefan9

Ok guys its cpu upgrade time for me. I have narrowed down my options to Q6600,E8400 or E8500.

Can't go for a q9xxx cpu since it isn't supported by the p5n32 e sli mobo and I don't plan to do any mobo upgrade for a while yet.

PC is mostly used for gaming and a bit of web browsing.

I am leaning towards the e8400. Anything I need to know or consider??


----------



## Nono06

First happy new year to everyone








I wish you the best for 2009!

Hi stefan9,

Few time ago hardware.fr (sorry it is in French: http://www.hardware.fr/news/10005/dx...quad-core.html) made a comparison between a quad core and a dual core (running @ the same freq of course) and they noticed that with nvidia drivers you can have up to 24% extra perf in dx10 mode when using a Quad core. In directx9 impact is smaller (~8%) since it is the API which is in charge of creating threads.
The problem is a q6600 and a e8400 are not running at the same frequency and are not using the same techno







. Moreover, a dual core can be overclocked at higher level on this mobo compare to quads.
So my comment is not very helpful, is it?









Then I have a question for the community.
Did anyone try to install latest bios 1701?
I'm currently using bios 1503. Is 1701 a better choice from overclocking point of view?

Thanks


----------



## stefan9

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nono06* 
First happy new year to everyone








I wish you the best for 2009!

Hi stefan9,

Few time ago hardware.fr (sorry it is in French: http://www.hardware.fr/news/10005/dx...quad-core.html) made a comparison between a quad core and a dual core (running @ the same freq of course) and they noticed that with nvidia drivers you can have up to 24% extra perf in dx10 mode when using a Quad core. In directx9 impact is smaller (~8%) since it is the API which is in charge of creating threads.
The problem is a q6600 and a e8400 are not running at the same frequency and are not using the same techno







. Moreover, a dual core can be overclocked at higher level on this mobo compare to quads.
So my comment is not very helpful, is it?









Then I have a question for the community.
Did anyone try to install latest bios 1701?
I'm currently using bios 1503. Is 1701 a better choice from overclocking point of view?

Thanks

Haven't tried the 1701 yet. Waiting for feedback to see if its as big a disaster as 1601 was. Also using 1503 at the moment.


----------



## Makav3li

Starting about a month ago I have experienced an issue with this MB. I am using bios version 1503. Every once in awhile, 3-5 times so far, I turn the computer on and instead of the one beep bios post I get a long beep that doesn't stop until I restart the computer. Does anyone know what could be causing this? I looked up the bios beep codes but couldn't get a definite answer. Has anyone else experienced this? Could it be my PS? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stefan9*


Haven't tried the 1701 yet. Waiting for feedback to see if its as big a disaster as 1601 was. Also using 1503 at the moment.


So is 1104 a bit out of date?

Oh, any one got the settings for me to hit the Golden 4GHz?
I have tryed uping the core voltage but it didn't boot so do i need to up the NB?
Thanks
Gary


----------



## stefan9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


So is 1104 a bit out of date?

Oh, any one got the settings for me to hit the Golden 4GHz?
I have tryed uping the core voltage but it didn't boot so do i need to up the NB?
Thanks
Gary


Your mobo is different from ours. Your bios versions are different as well. We are using the p5n32 e sli while you are using the p5n32e sli *plus*.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stefan9* 
Your mobo is different from ours. Your bios versions are different as well. We are using the p5n32 e sli while you are using the p5n32e sli *plus*.

I'll be on my way then








Only joking








Gary


----------



## stefan9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


I'll be on my way then








Only joking








Gary










But the setting should be fairly similar between the boards. So hopefully someone with more knowledge concerning overclocking than me can help you out.


----------



## Arron68851

g'day i'm fairly new to this but i'm am familiar with how to build one. i have an e6400 the main problem i'm having at the moment is now i cant change my fbs speed they revert back to auto after being saved, Also what is the best bios for this board? and what cause vista to turn off or freeze under nearly any but a1 overclock 5%?

vcore 1.45v
memory 2.1v
1.2vht auto
nb core 1.45v
sb core 1.55v
cpuvtt 1.55v

9800gt
2x1g 800mhz ddr2
860watt power supply but a cheap one

thanks in adavnce


----------



## Paraleyes

1st off, don't use the AI crap. It doesn't work. In fact I believe that feature is completely removed from later versions. Disable all the extras on the board and change the FSB & Memory to Unlinked. There is a pretty big debate on which is the best BIOS for this board right now, but I was using 0602(Or whatever version it comes with) with my E6600 for a very long time up until I had to update for my new CPU. As you are still using a 65nm CPU, I wouldn't change it. You won't gain anything for it.

Actually, if you follow Robilar's posts on the 1st page of this thread, you should find everything you need to get some very good results. Good luck!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Arron68851* 
g'day i'm fairly new to this but i'm am familiar with how to build one. i have an e6400 the main problem i'm having at the moment is now i cant change my fbs speed they revert back to auto after being saved, Also what is the best bios for this board? and what cause vista to turn off or freeze under nearly any but a1 overclock 5%?

vcore 1.45v
memory 2.1v
1.2vht auto
nb core 1.45v
sb core 1.55v
cpuvtt 1.55v

9800gt
2x1g 800mhz ddr2
860watt power supply but a cheap one

thanks in adavnce


----------



## Makav3li

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Makav3li* 
Starting about a month ago I have experienced an issue with this MB. I am using bios version 1503. Every once in awhile, 3-5 times so far, I turn the computer on and instead of the one beep bios post I get a long beep that doesn't stop until I restart the computer. Does anyone know what could be causing this? I looked up the bios beep codes but couldn't get a definite answer. Has anyone else experienced this? Could it be my PS? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Does anyone know?


----------



## Arron68851

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Paraleyes* 
1st off, don't use the AI crap. It doesn't work. In fact I believe that feature is completely removed from later versions. Disable all the extras on the board and change the FSB & Memory to Unlinked. There is a pretty big debate on which is the best BIOS for this board right now, but I was using 0602(Or whatever version it comes with) with my E6600 for a very long time up until I had to update for my new CPU. As you are still using a 65nm CPU, I wouldn't change it. You won't gain anything for it.

Actually, if you follow Robilar's posts on the 1st page of this thread, you should find everything you need to get some very good results. Good luck!









thanks for the reply. i wasnt trying to use the ai to overclock it was just the only one saving but i reflshed 1503 set fsb to 1600it updated the romsip table and now settings are saving. but i'm still having a few problems, how long do i need to rrun orthos for to know it is completly stable and will it be completly stable? also when running at 2590mhz psu seems to be quite noisy and it seems to be getting quite hot in coretemp under full load for while 71 degrees at 45 minutes is that normal? i have both sides of the case off with a small fan blowing in and one blowing out i also hve an aftermarket cpu cooler on called deep cool


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Arron68851* 
...how long do i need to rrun orthos for to know it is completly stable and will it be completly stable?

Some people run prime and/or orthos for 24hrs. Some people run it for 1hrs. It's up to you. I don't run them at all. I just jump right in to normal use; video rendering/converting and gaming. I just monitor my temps and wait to see if it crashes. In my experience, it will usually crash right away if so.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Arron68851* 
...also when running at 2590mhz psu seems to be quite noisy and it seems to be getting quite hot in coretemp under full load for while 71 degrees at 45 minutes is that normal? i have both sides of the case off with a small fan blowing in and one blowing out i also hve an aftermarket cpu cooler on called deep cool

Yes, 71C is too hot. Intel says 75C is the maximum safe operating temperature for your CPU. In fact, I believe it will begin to throttle down at 70C. I tried to find the page where this is listed for you, but I can't find it again.

I also checked out your Deep Cool HSF. Not impressed. I hope you didn't pay too much for it. I would recommend an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro since you mentioned noise as an issue. It's super quiet and for $26, it kept my E6600 below 50C, even when I ran it at 3.4Ghz. Best results for your money in my opinion, but there are many other options out there. Do your research if you are buying one, but get rid of that Deep Cool or at least start by replacing the thermal paste with some Arctic Silver 5. Also, check out the link in my signature for some more cooling tips.


----------



## Arron68851

nah i didnt pay much. the noise is coming from the power supply, not often thou. can get it booting fine up to 3ghz can run prime but it crashes in games even on tiny overclock 2.3 ghz any ideas? temp peaked at 71 but mostly 60-65


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Arron68851* 
nah i didnt pay much. the noise is coming from the power supply, not often thou. can get it booting fine up to 3ghz can run prime but it crashes in games even on tiny overclock 2.3 ghz any ideas? temp peaked at 71 but mostly 60-65

Get your CPU load temps below 60C. Try some arctic silver 5 thermal paste 1st. Then a better HSF, which you will need if you ever upgrade to a to a 45nm CPU. And then of course, for the most bang for your buck, E8500 or Q6600.

Upgrading your MB cooling will help tremendously! It did for me. At the very least, replace the junk stock paste ASUS put on your chipset. This is very easy to do with a small needle nosed plier. Check the link in my signature. Even if you don't go as extreme as I did, you'll be surprised by the results. Be sure to clean the rubber heat transfer gaskets for your mosfets.


----------



## Arron68851

idle temps are 39 and load temps 55 still no luck crashes in game just turns off cant figure it out as to why? I havent got alot of cash at the moment so i'd perfer not to have to spend much at the moment


----------



## matly

Hello ,
plaese someone can tell me the best setting for my ram
i don't want overclock my system too much,but only set the right settings (or little more)
especially the memory voltage and timings, dram:FSB rate
and necessary
sorry for my english and thanks

my pc :
P5N32 E-SLI Plus
E6700
2X1 Gb Geil ultra ddr2 800 4-4-4-12
8600 Gts


----------



## hwa

Hi all,

I am not a pro overclocker, but i've red most of the thread as much as i can and i configured my computer for 4.0 ghz performans. I want to use e8600 @4.0 ghz in a stable way. I am using 1603 bios. Seems like the system is stable now but the cpu is very hot. It seems normal now but at summer it will be problem. Can you please recommend me some way to lower the cpu's degree @4.ghz. I am attaching bios and other screens. Thank you very much for your help.


----------



## Arron68851

computer turns off like the plug has been pulled out while gaming even at stock speeds, if i change to a non powered gpu can manage stable overclock would this make the power supply the culprit i have the king of cheap **** 860watt shaw, or would it be my 9800gt? thanks in advance

you ould get an artic freezer pro 7 there cheap and real good too can replace all the thermal grease on all of the heatsinks and there are heaps of motherboard cooling mods in this thread


----------



## Arron68851

check the above posts by paraleyes


----------



## shnoops

Looking for the stock heatsinks for the Asus p5n32-e motherboard!!!

The north and southbridge.

PM me if you have them and are willing to part with them until my board is RMA'ed!


----------



## oldis

I am new to this forum, this thread in itself was good enough reason to become member!
Great contributions.

I am running the following @stock 2.4GHz (vcore set to auto):
Q6600 B3 | P5N32-E | Noctua NH-U12F

Running Prime95 (small FTTs) for a few minutes, I noticed in CoreTemp that my cores went up to 73-77C. RealTemp shows them about 15C cooler. HWMonitor shows the same high temp as CoreTemp.
So to my questions:

What utility shows the correct temperature, RealTemp or CoreTemp/HWMonitor?
What temperature (in which utility) should be considered maximum safe, permanent temperature?

I have found quite a few possible ways to reduce my core temperatures, this post is not about that (for now).
I post to this thread as I see there are quite a few others here with the same MB/CPU as me, so I thought this would be acceptable.


----------



## Makav3li

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Makav3li* 
Starting about a month ago I have experienced an issue with this MB. I am using bios version 1503. Every once in awhile, 3-5 times so far, I turn the computer on and instead of the one beep bios post I get a long beep that doesn't stop until I restart the computer. Does anyone know what could be causing this? I looked up the bios beep codes but couldn't get a definite answer. Has anyone else experienced this? Could it be my PS? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

I would think someone posting here would know?


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Makav3li*


Starting about a month ago I have experienced an issue with this MB. I am using bios version 1503. Every once in awhile, 3-5 times so far, I turn the computer on and instead of the one beep bios post I get a long beep that doesn't stop until I restart the computer. Does anyone know what could be causing this? I looked up the bios beep codes but couldn't get a definite answer. Has anyone else experienced this? Could it be my PS? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.


This is the beep code for all beep codes. It is your MB saying, "I'm so bleeping beeped out that all I can do is beeeeep!" It means your MB is too confused to know what beep code to send out. Start by making sure your monitor cable is securely connected to both the monitor and the video card. Also, try disconnecting and reconnecting your DDR2s making sure they are clicked in 100%. Then of course, do the same with all of your expansion cards, especially the video card. I doubt it's anything other than these few easily fixed issues as I've dealt with this on a number of occasions on my tech bench. Likely all that happened is your system unit was bumped or moved just enough to shift something loose and 99% of the time, it's the VGA partially disconnected.


----------



## Arron68851

hey alll i left hwmoniter running fora while and it said my ddr2 hit voltages of 8.16 any idea of what is going on there? cheers arron


----------



## oldis

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oldis* 
What utility shows the correct temperature, RealTemp or CoreTemp/HWMonitor?
What temperature (in which utility) should be considered maximum safe, permanent temperature?

Hope someone can help me out with the above. In the mean time, as I am on the superhot B3 chip, I need to focus on trimming my vcore voltages as low as possible. So I have these different results:
9x1200FSB = 2.700GHz @1.25000v vcore
9x1250FSB = 2.813GHz @1.26875v vcore

Not confident they are 100% stable, but at least runs Prime95 for at least 10minutes. As I am uncertain as to what core temperatures are acceptable, I am reluctant to leave my PC running without monitoring the temperature.

I would have thought I should have been able to get more out of my Noctua, maybe I will need to lap, as there are a 6-8C difference between core0+1 and core2+3.

I was also struggling with Southbridge running hot @stock, so I superglued a 45mm fan standing up onto the sata connectors next to it. So its now blowing a 5500rpm storm over the SB, reduced temp by 15C (everest reading). Good stuff!

Also one more thing:
Is the pencil mod for vdroop applicable to the P5N32-E SLI. I found an image, but it didn't match what I have on my MB. Maybe the image was for one of the 680i reference boards.


----------



## stefan9

Hi guys. Will bios 1503 be fine for an e8500 or will I need to up date to 1701?? Any strange issues I need to be aware of??


----------



## oldis

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stefan9* 
Hi guys. Will bios 1503 be fine for an e8500 or will I need to up date to 1701?? Any strange issues I need to be aware of??

1701 has worked fine for me.
With 1503 I had a lot of problems where when I tried to go Unlinked or Linked it would not "stick", but just set it back to "Auto" upon reboot.
I also had a few problems where after starting up with low vcore voltage it simply got stuck with a black screen, and I had to remove CMOS battery and use the bios reset jumper.
Haven't had any of these problems with 1701. (I am on a Q6600, so I don't have experience with your processor. Others might have more info for you..
C2D E8500 has been supported since bios version 1502, so 1503 should be ok.
Check this links:
*CPU Support:*
http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...=P5N32-E%20SLI

Good luck....


----------



## oldis

I got really tired of my hot B3, so I bought a new Q6600 G0 (mainly because this MB does not support Q9xxx). Wow, what a difference!
So now I am also a member of the 3000MHz club:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=484576 :thumbsup :
I am running stable (prime95 for 18hours), temps (load) are:
vcore=1.280v (pencil mod'ed)
Coretemp :
CPU: 56C
Core0: 61C

Everest:
SPP 61C (Northbridge)
MCP 67C (Southbridge)

Hottest core in Realtemp was at 56C.

Would appreciate if anyone would comment on my questions 3-4 posts up on what temps to trust, with realtemp showing lower temps....


----------



## oldis

Someone might find this one from Asus FAQ for this MB useful:

<snip>
http://support.asus.com/faq/faq.aspx...Language=en-us
_*Issue:*
My chassis fan seem to run slower when connected to CHA_Fan1 connector even when I set the fan to operate under Duty Cycle Mode.
Is this normal?

*Answer:*
This is because CHA_FAN1 connector has been specially designed to force fan to operate at 30% lower RPM under full run, in order to reduce overall system noise. As this motherboard comes with 6 chassis fan connectors in total (CHA_FAN1 & OPT_FAN1~5), please connect your chassis fan to OPT_Fan1~5 if you desire to allow chassis fan to operate at 100% RPM under full run._
<snip>
Might save you a degree or two...


----------



## bron

I'm just benching my new build on this board,and I have a few questions.

Is it ok for a CPU heatsink to touch another heatsink? I'm planning to use the CPU cooler in my sig, but it's massive. When turned the way I wish to mount i,it touches the 3rd party NB cooler I have. Can this cause problems?

The motherboard take the 24 pin and a 8 pin from the PSU. But my PSU only has the 24and 4 pin. Do I need a new power supply? I took a look at this guide :

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psucon...rs.html#4into8

But it doesn't make my concern any less!

The chip is a E6600, so the power draw isn't massive. Will I be okay using just the 4pin?


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bron*


I'm just benching my new build on this board,and I have a few questions.

Is it ok for a CPU heatsink to touch another heatsink? I'm planning to use the CPU cooler in my sig, but it's massive. When turned the way I wish to mount i,it touches the 3rd party NB cooler I have. Can this cause problems?

The motherboard take the 24 pin and a 8 pin from the PSU. But my PSU only has the 24and 4 pin. Do I need a new power supply? I took a look at this guide :

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psucon...rs.html#4into8

But it doesn't make my concern any less!

The chip is a E6600, so the power draw isn't massive. Will I be okay using just the 4pin?


I doubt you'll even loose a single degree with those heatsinks touching. Don't worry about it. If you check out the link in my signature, you can see a picture where my aftermarket NB cooler touches my CPU cooler and I"m getting excellent results like that.

As far as using the 4 pin connector, you will be fine. However, I wouldn't hook up too many fans to the motherboard more than your CPU fan and maybe two others. Use 4-pin molex connection adapters to run additional fans instead. Also, be sure you don't use any PCI-Express video cards that do not have their own power connector and you will be fine.


----------



## bron

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Paraleyes* 
I doubt you'll even loose a single degree with those heatsinks touching. Don't worry about it. If you check out the link in my signature, you can see a picture where my aftermarket NB cooler touches my CPU cooler and I"m getting excellent results like that.

As far as using the 4 pin connector, you will be fine. However, I wouldn't hook up too many fans to the motherboard more than your CPU fan and maybe two others. Use 4-pin molex connection adapters to run additional fans instead. Also, be sure you don't use any PCI-Express video cards that do not have their own power connector and you will be fine.

Thanks for the advice. I've already bit the bullet and I'm typing on the machine now









I have a fan controller anyway, so running fans off the motherboard isn't such a big deal (although it has loads of headers for them!).

Since I've built 2 machines tonight I'm finally heading to bed. Tomorrow brings braiding and perhaps some overclocking on this board.


----------



## Arron68851

Hey guys just wondering if you gys could give me an insight on a good motherboard to get i'm sure its this one that is stuffed ive replaced everything else basically im after SLI and 45mm support and good overclocking starting from looking at the cheapest boards thanks in advance


----------



## stefan9

Question guys for the e8500 do I need to set the vcore manually or is auto fine?? On auto the vcore is 1.34. I am running 375 x9= 3562.4mhz with temps of 41 degrees.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Arron68851* 
Hey guys just wondering if you gys could give me an insight on a good motherboard to get i'm sure its this one that is stuffed ive replaced everything else basically im after SLI and 45mm support and good overclocking starting from looking at the cheapest boards thanks in advance

Wow! That's "The Question" isn't it?! ASUS is a must by any means; cooling design, overclocking potential and reputation. EVGA however has a lifetime warranty, but don't let that be your purchasing decision though as their nvidia referenced board and cooling design will run much hotter! Plan to RMA these boards in the future if you plan to overclock. Even though you only get a 3 year warranty with ASUS, they are still the pinnacle of motherboards.

Things to consider about purchasing a new motherboard:

Do you plan to use DDR3 or DDR2 Dimms and check the supported capacity?
Front Side Bus and Memory Speeds should definitely be considered.
What chipset do you like?
What processor do you intend to use?
Do you plan to use NTI designed Crashfire, or nVidia design SLI?
Warranty terms and duration?
Is price _really_ an issue?
My next purchase will be the Striker II Extreme. Although there are three versions of this board, it is in fact the big brother to this board we all have here. However, both the Extreme and NSE versions are built to be used with a water cooling. I intend to remove the stock ASUS water block and install an Extreme Spirit II in it's place.

DDR3 memory will be more expensive than DDR2. That means it's better, right? Not necessarily! You should check the latency timings in comparison with DDR2 memory. This is a discussion all on it's own, but do your research on this before purchasing your new motherboard.

There are a handful of new chipsets out now like the X58 intel chip which now supports SLI as well Crashfire; bonus! However you would be required to purchase a new Core i7 processor if you buy this X58 motherboard. I still like the nForce 700 series chipsets such as the 730i, 750i, 780i and 790i as they are obviously designed for SLI. The 780i motherboards support DDR2 while the 790i motherboards support DDR3. You won't see too impressive of a performance increase with 750i and the 730i motherboards are Hybrid SLI motherboards and a micro ATX form factor. There won't be a lot of room for overclocking on these motherboards without some aftermarket cooling upgrades.

Oh and I apologize for not talking about AMD. It's simply not a factor in my opinion.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stefan9* 
Question guys for the e8500 do I need to set the vcore manually or is auto fine?? On auto the vcore is 1.34. I am running 375 x9= 3562.4mhz with temps of 41 degrees.

You are totally fine at 1.34. I am now at 1.3+ and 3.8GHz. You should be able to hit that with decent ventilation at that voltage.


----------



## Arron68851

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Paraleyes*


Wow! That's "The Question" isn't it?! ASUS is a must by any means; cooling design, overclocking potential and reputation. EVGA however has a lifetime warranty, but don't let that be your purchasing decision though as their nvidia referenced board and cooling design will run much hotter! Plan to RMA these boards in the future if you plan to overclock. Even though you only get a 3 year warranty with ASUS, they are still the pinnacle of motherboards.

Things to consider about purchasing a new motherboard:
Do you plan to use DDR3 or DDR2 Dimms and check the supported capacity?
Front Side Bus and Memory Speeds should definitely be considered.
What chipset do you like?
What processor do you intend to use?
Do you plan to use NTI designed Crashfire, or nVidia design SLI?
Warranty terms and duration?
Is price _really_ an issue?
My next purchase will be the Striker II Extreme. Although there are three versions of this board, it is in fact the big brother to this board we all have here. However, both the Extreme and NSE versions are built to be used with a water cooling. I intend to remove the stock ASUS water block and install an Extreme Spirit II in it's place.

DDR3 memory will be more expensive than DDR2. That means it's better, right? Not necessarily! You should check the latency timings in comparison with DDR2 memory. This is a discussion all on it's own, but do your research on this before purchasing your new motherboard.

There are a handful of new chipsets out now like the X58 intel chip which now supports SLI as well Crashfire; bonus! However you would be required to purchase a new Core i7 processor if you buy this X58 motherboard. I still like the nForce 700 series chipsets such as the 730i, 750i, 780i and 790i as they are obviously designed for SLI. The 780i motherboards support DDR2 while the 790i motherboards support DDR3. You won't see too impressive of a performance increase with 750i and the 730i motherboards are Hybrid SLI motherboards and a micro ATX form factor. There won't be a lot of room for overclocking on these motherboards without some aftermarket cooling upgrades.

Oh and I apologize for not talking about AMD. It's simply not a factor in my opinion.


hey mate thanks for that, whats is crashfire? do you think it is worth upgrding to the new i7 yet would i tbe worth the money? will defenatly go asus socket 775 ddr2. money is quite an issue though but i would like to go with a nforce chipset though. best value for money? and with that striker extreme i it hard to not to run on water? and which version is the best cause this mobo plus is a downgrade. thanks heaps man


----------



## Arron68851

Wow the 790i is $500 way to much for me atm


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Arron68851* 
Wow the 790i is $500 way to much for me atm


I see you share my bias to intel and invidia and since you're looking to save some money, I would recommend a 780i motherboard. Here is a good place to start. They range from $180 to about $260, but pretty much can be found at $219 for any of the good ones when they're on sale. This board will allow you to use your old processor and memory as well as give you PCI-Express 2.0 from what you have now.

Want to save even more money? Check out the 750i boards. You do lose some features and some overclocking potential with these boards, but they still perform fairly well if you can do with less SATA ports, less USB ports, a single gigabit ethernet rather than dual, as well as some memory frequency caps. I guess that's not too terribly bad of a trade off when you can save as much as $100 in comparison.

Something I have not had much experience with are the X38 and X48 chips. From what I understand, they overclock very well, but they only support crashfire. Now that doesn't mean you won't be able to use your nvida card on these boards, but if plan on SLI, these previous generation intel chips are out of the picture.


----------



## oldis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Arron68851*


Hey guys just wondering if you gys could give me an insight on a good motherboard to get i'm sure its this one that is stuffed ive replaced everything else basically im after SLI and 45mm support and good overclocking starting from looking at the cheapest boards thanks in advance


If you relax your SLI requirement, the Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3P or UD3R gets a lot of praise these days..
But as I say, based of P45 so its crossfireX, not SLI..
http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Products/...ProductID=2919


----------



## oldis

Played around a bit today, and I am now running my Q6600 at:
FSB 1600
Multiplier 8
vcore 1.360v (actual load)

Running abit hot, so not 24x7, but nice..
(Just 30minutes P95 so far)
need to play around a little more with the voltages, as both Southbridge,Northbridge and Cores are running a little hot.
From Everest:
CPU: 67C
Core0: 70C
SPP (Southbridge): 72C
MCP (Northbridge): 69C

I guess 1600 FSB is a little much to ask








Memory timings are loose, at 5-5-5-18 2T @2.1v , so will try to tighten..

CPU-z validation @3200


----------



## Ronll

hi guys , i have a Q6600 a 9800GTX SLI and the P5N32-E 
600W ZALMAN 
and core-contact freezer from sunbeam
o and 2GB 800MH CL4 (gona get 2 more soon)

i wanted to start a OC , who i never had one , i wana get to 3.0 GH 
is that possible?

i read the therd , its great 
tho i cant even fined where to change the FSB lol









so pleas give me some more tips , how mach FSB to raise each time and VOLTAGE .

what programs to use to test it , im using bios 1403 ,the 1604 did not boot


----------



## hwa

has anyone tried E8600 = 500*9= 4500mhz
450*10 works not so bad. but i wanna run with 500*9 is it possible?


----------



## stefan9

Installed the cpu on Friday night. So far so good. Temps are excellent. at 3.5ghz the cpu idles at about 38/40 degrees and at 3.8ghz it goes up to 42/45 degrees. It differs a lot depending which temp programs you use. Core temp and hw monitor are on the high side while speedfan is about 2 degrees lower than them and real temp is very low with idle temps with it being in the low 30's.

Under load during a long session of benching 3dmark 06,05 and vantage it would go at max to 54/60. But generally stayed at about 48.

Going to run prime95 later today to test for stability but so far it seems quite stable.

3dmark 06 results: 14513(3000 up from my e6400). 3dmark 06 result
3dmark 05 result: 22104( deleted the 05 run for e6400 so can't compare) 3dmark 05 result
3dmark vantage result: 10324( up with a 1000 from e6400) 3dmark vantage result

Will do some game benching latter today and post their results as well.


----------



## stefan9

Earlier comments on temps were totally off. Reason was I was still using the old version of all my monitoring programs. Actually temps according to the new versions are 37/38 for speedfan,coretemp and hw monitor and 33 degrees for real temp.

I love how cool this wolfdale runs compared to my old e6400.


----------



## Ronll

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ronll*


hi guys , i have a Q6600 a 9800GTX SLI and the P5N32-E 
600W ZALMAN 
and core-contact freezer from sunbeam
o and 2GB 800MH CL4 (gona get 2 more soon)

i wanted to start a OC , who i never had one , i wana get to 3.0 GH 
is that possible?

i read the therd , its great 
tho i cant even fined where to change the FSB lol









so pleas give me some more tips , how mach FSB to raise each time and VOLTAGE .

what programs to use to test it , im using bios 1403 ,the 1604 did not boot


help , some one


----------



## stefan9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ronll*


help , some one










Check the first page of this thread. Robilar pretty much explains all the different settings in the bios to use.

To check for stability use prime 95.

Can't help on the quads since I have never used one.


----------



## Ronll

im using bios 1701
and when i set the QDR to for example 1166 then it seems to work , and but when i get to windows its like nothing changed the clock stays the same , when i go to check on it in the bios , its showing me its all working as if the OC is on...

what to do?

i checked with CPUZ and OCCT


----------



## oldis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ronll*


im using bios 1701
and when i set the QDR to for example 1166 then it seems to work , and but when i get to windows its like nothing changed the clock stays the same , when i go to check on it in the bios , its showing me its all working as if the OC is on...

what to do?

i checked with CPUZ and OCCT


Did you make sure to disable speedstep and thermal throttling on the "Extreme Tweaker" front page?


----------



## Ronll

yes i have disabled it , is it the bios version?


----------



## bron

I'm currently running my sig system at stock speeds. I'm concerned my CPU and RAM speed could be holding back my HD 4870. Any suggestions?


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bron*


I'm currently running my sig system at stock speeds. I'm concerned my CPU and RAM speed could be holding back my HD 4870. Any suggestions?


Why would you run that CPU at stock speed?! The E6600 is arguably one of if not the best overclockers ever. You can hit 3.4GHz easy! I did with my old E6600 and that was on my 1st day of overclocking anything and with PC6400 memory too.

Your GPU isn't being held back. It's doing it's part regardless. However, you will definitely see improvements if you overclock or upgrade. So, yes and no.


----------



## Makav3li

I have a Q6600 G0 and I am looking to try to OC it to 3.2-3.4. What is the consensus on OC'ing with the new bios'. Which one is best? I remember 1503 showed some improvement and a few guys got in the mid 3's with it.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Makav3li* 
I have a Q6600 G0 and I am looking to try to OC it to 3.2-3.4. What is the consensus on OC'ing with the new bios'. Which one is best? I remember 1503 showed some improvement and a few guys got in the mid 3's with it.

I'm sure you already know this, but just in case, here is a link to ASUS where you can view all the changes/fixes made in the history of each BIOS. In each drop down menu, select Motherboard, Socket 775 and then your motherboard. Then you will prompted to enter your OS:

http://support.asus.com/download/dow...Language=en-us

Generally, if you aren't having any issues with the BIOS you're using, it's recommended that you leave it be as with even the handy new tools we have available now for flashing the BIOS, there is always a danger of crashing it.


----------



## GoneTomorrow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Paraleyes*


I'm sure you already know this, but just in case, here is a link to ASUS where you can view all the changes/fixes made in the history of each BIOS. In each drop down menu, select Motherboard, Socket 775 and then your motherboard. Then you will prompted to enter your OS:

http://support.asus.com/download/dow...Language=en-us

Generally, if you aren't having any issues with the BIOS you're using, it's recommended that you leave it be as with even the handy new tools we have available now for flashing the BIOS, there is always a danger of crashing it.


That risk isn't so great anymore, esp. with this board (excluding the Asus update method, never trusted it). I've gone back and forth between BIOS versions numerous times. However I do agree that if a BIOS version is working fine, that it's not absolutely necessary to update it.


----------



## Makav3li

So is there a consensus on best quad overclocking bios?


----------



## bron

OK guys, I went and OC'ed today.

I set my ram timings, but I'm a little worried about the DIMM voltage (it's marked as 1.9v on the modules)

What did I do wrong?









Idle












Stress


----------



## rhkcommander959

2v isnt too bad. some motherboards go a little higher, a step or two higher. thats all yours did. knock it down a notch if your worried so much, but 2v shouldnt harm them


----------



## Ronll

sry pleas delete


----------



## Ronll

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ronll* 
im using bios 1701
and when i set the QDR to for example 1166 then it seems to work , and but when i get to windows its like nothing changed the clock stays the same , when i go to check on it in the bios , its showing me its all working as if the OC is on...

what to do?

i checked with CPUZ and OCCT

sry im asking so match , but pleas help me with this


----------



## Ruski1982

Hey folks...can anyone recommend the best 4gb kit that I can get for this mobo? I have been running the Patriot Extreme PC2-6400 2x2GB for a year and half with E6420, but never overclocked much past 2.88Ghz...I am really starting to think its the RAM limiting me.

Anyway, I just got an E8400 E0 which runs fine at stock, but when I start to push the chip to ~3.5GHZ, i get really messed up results....I tweaked everything imaginable in the bios...read that this board doesnt like funny dividers between FSB:RAM...so if I got a fast ram kit, i could potentially go 1:1?


----------



## Robilar

The OCZ Reapers work fine with it.


----------



## Paraleyes

Corsair Dominator PC2 8500 are jolly good to me.


----------



## Ruski1982

awesome, thanks...will try one of those i think....

I think i finally found my one biggest issue last night. Finally installed the latest version of Everest Ultimate and noticed that:

*My North Bridge is running @ 87C* on 1.4-1.5v i believe and cpu at stock 3Ghz.
*My south bridge is around 59C. *

I think i need to atleast re-seat the heatsinks with some new thermal paste....or maybe even get new heatsinks...thats probably whats holding the board back...the funny thing is I have had this board since 2007 and running an E6420 @ 2.9Ghz 24/7 lol...

Any suggestions?? Can i just apply a fresh layer of AS5 and re-seat both heatpipes?

Or should i invest in some new heatsinks for North/South Bridge instead? If so, which can I get that will fit under the *TRUE BLACK 120* that i got installed.

On a happy note...my E8400 E0 @ stock (3ghz) is running at 25C idle and tops out at 34C under load.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ruski1982*


awesome, thanks...will try one of those i think....

I think i finally found my one biggest issue last night. Finally installed the latest version of Everest Ultimate and noticed that:

*My North Bridge is running @ 87C* on 1.4-1.5v i believe and cpu at stock 3Ghz.
*My south bridge is around 59C. *

I think i need to atleast re-seat the heatsinks with some new thermal paste....or maybe even get new heatsinks...thats probably whats holding the board back...the funny thing is I have had this board since 2007 and running an E6420 @ 2.9Ghz 24/7 lol...

Any suggestions?? Can i just apply a fresh layer of AS5 and re-seat both heatpipes?

Or should i invest in some new heatsinks for North/South Bridge instead? If so, which can I get that will fit under the *TRUE BLACK 120* that i got installed.

On a happy note...my E8400 E0 @ stock (3ghz) is running at 25C idle and tops out at 34C under load.


Adding thermal paste will be sufficient. The stock stuff is essentially nonexistent. You will see a huge improvement doing that alone as long as you've got good air circulation, but installing new heatsinks is always fun.







Check my signature links. None of my montherboard temps go above 36C anymore since I did that mod. Make sure you will be able to fit whatever you buy if you do as that TRUE is huge.


----------



## Chickenman

If you read back through the thread you will note that non standard heatsinks are pretty much required for day to day goodness.


----------



## Ruski1982

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chickenman* 
If you read back through the thread you will note that non standard heatsinks are pretty much required for day to day goodness.

ya after skimming through 100+ pages of this thread, i started going a bit nuts lol...but ya, it seems that aftermarket cooling is required...i should be getting all the parts in the next day or so...going to be fun, once its all setup.

Any trouble removing the stop heatpipes? need any heat or do they come off pretty easy?


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ruski1982*


ya after skimming through 100+ pages of this thread, i started going a bit nuts lol...but ya, it seems that aftermarket cooling is required...i should be getting all the parts in the next day or so...going to be fun, once its all setup.

Any trouble removing the stop heatpipes? need any heat or do they come off pretty easy?


Use a needle nosed pliers on the back side of the board to sqeeze the little black clips together and then push them through the front. Then they will just fall off as the stock thermal paste is essentially nonexistent and dried up.


----------



## Ruski1982

awesome...hopefully i can remove the heatpipes without having to take off my Ultra Black 120!...i got that thing on perfect and running 35C @ load with ambient temps being ~34C







...dont want to screw that up hehe


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ruski1982*


awesome...hopefully i can remove the heatpipes without having to take off my Ultra Black 120!...i got that thing on perfect and running 35C @ load with ambient temps being ~34C







...dont want to screw that up hehe


It will be way easier than you expect. Just be sure to support the weight of that TRUE as you're handling your MB.


----------



## Ruski1982

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Paraleyes* 
It will be way easier than you expect. Just be sure to support the weight of that TRUE as you're handling your MB.

looking forward to getting it all done!...my only annoyance is having to re-do all the cable management crap i already went through before discovering this craptacular NB temps hehe...ohh well c'est la vie...

(p.s. my xtrememusic seems to have stopped working too lol...what a week)


----------



## Warmech

Can I get 3.4 gigs on my Q6600 with the 1701 BIOS?
Has anyone Tried to get past 3.0 g?


----------



## Ruski1982

ok i got everything installed...2x HR-05 SFX/SLI + 2 Thermalright MOSFET coolers...

I had to turn my TRUE to face the top of the case/mobo rather than the I/O ports because i couldnt figure out a way to make everything fit otherwise...

Anyway, just tried 1600fsb for 3.6ghz....running smooth so far...going to leave it overnight, then overclock more tomorrow after work....amazing results btw as i couldnt even boot @ 3.2ghz before i removed the stock heatpipes lol.










The above screenshot is with the motherboard sitting on a box right now, not even in the case...and only 1 fan (on my TRUE) running. *The CPU voltage seems to fluctuate between 1.232v-1.248v in CPU-Z under full load.*


----------



## burtethead

Ok, so here's the deal. Im building a computer for my brother, using my recently replaced XFX GTX260, ASUS P5N32-e SLI motherboard, and Kingston HyperX ram. The motherboard has been sitting around for about 3 weeks, but the GPU and RAM were just taken out of my setup today, so im positive they work. I put it together with an OCZ StealhXtreme 600w and an e7400 CPU, making sure of course that the P5N32 had the right bios, which it does. First startup, it boots, i go into bios to set boot priority, and restart with the vista disk in the drive. When it restarts, there is no display, so i switch DVI ports and restart again, and it starts up into the vista install. Once the first portion of the install completes, it restarted, and has had no video output since. Also, the fan on the GTX 260 will not spin. I have tested this card in another system, as well as a different gtx260 in this system. Either GTX260 will not spin up or display. I have also tryed a corsair 650w psu, instead of the stealthxtreme 600w, but with the same result. I have also tried both cards in both PCIe x16 slots. Still no display. I know the ram, CPU, GTX260, PSU, and HDD are all good, so that just leaves the motherboard, right?

My only worry is that, since it started up once (getting into the vista install), did some component (case? psu?) ruin the motherboard somehow during that period? If thats the situation, i dont want to put another board in there to get fried.

any ideas will be appreciated! Just dont tell me to clear the CMOS.


----------



## Warmech

I could not find a real answer on weather the 1701 BIOS was better than the 1203 for overclocking, So i flashed to 1701 and the results were Great








Im currently running my Q6600 at 3.6 gigs stable and my 3d mark score went from 17019 to 18137

With the 1203 BIOS i was only able to get 3.3 gigs.
If only they released the 1701 BIOS 2 years ago!!!


----------



## Paraleyes

I have the P5N32-E SLI Plus version of this board. ASUS provides a 1403 BIOS for this board, but nothing newer than that. Can anyone tell me for certain whether or not these other newer BIOS versions will work for my board as well? 1501, 1601, 1701


----------



## Ruski1982

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Paraleyes*


I have the P5N32-E SLI Plus version of this board. ASUS provides a 1403 BIOS for this board, but nothing newer than that. Can anyone tell me for certain whether or not these other newer BIOS versions will work for my board as well? 1501, 1601, 1701


P5N32-E SLI is an Nvidia 680i chipset board.
P5N32-E SLI Plus is an Nvidia 650i chipset board.

The BIOS is definitely incompatible. Don't try and flash!


----------



## Paraleyes

Thanks Ruski! I actually found a great article explaining the differences between the two chipsets.


----------



## scarletoath

can 45nm quads yorkfields work on the striker extreme?


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scarletoath*


can 45nm quads yorkfields work on the striker extreme?


yep


----------



## Rightwing

I have an E6600 CPU running stock right now with this board,how high can you expect to OC without after market cooling.I have an Antec 900 thats runs cool.Do you think I can get to 3.0 with stock cooling?I cant afford to purchase any after market cooling for awhile so I was wondering if it is even worth OCing yet.I know I could just try and see but seeing how I am new to this it would take me awhile to find out and I am sure alot of people on here already know.Hate to waste time.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rightwing*


I have an E6600 CPU running stock right now with this board,how high can you expect to OC without after market cooling.I have an Antec 900 thats runs cool.Do you think I can get to 3.0 with stock cooling?I cant afford to purchase any after market cooling for awhile so I was wondering if it is even worth OCing yet.I know I could just try and see but seeing how I am new to this it would take me awhile to find out and I am sure alot of people on here already know.Hate to waste time.


With a $36 Arctic Freezer 7(often on sale for $26), you could hit 3.4GHz easily. I know that doesn't answer your question, but I had to throw out there the fact that you don't need to go out and buy a copper TRUE to be able to overclock.

I have my E6600 at 2.7GHz on my ASUS P5N7A-VM with a stock cooler and there are no noticeable temp differences. However, before I upgraded to my E8500, I ran the E6600 at 3.4GHz under the Arctic Freezer 7 as mentioned above.


----------



## mllrkllr88

I have a problem that maybe you guys can help me with.

I just got a second 9600GT for SLI, I enableded SLI in the controll pannel and all is good there. I was hoping to hit near 20k in 3DMark06, but instead I got a score of one 9600GT. So i did what anybody else would do, I updated graphics drivers, chipset drivers, and even the bios from 1401 to 1701, STILL NOTHING

Then I tried each card in each slot independent of each other. Tried the cards without the SLI bridge and still nothing. Then I went to the bios and looked around for a while. I tried the NB and SB at almost all voltages (both on liquid), ranged my CPU from stock 2.4 (E6600) to the highest bench able setting I can get... 3.9. NOTHING

I have tested each card and they both work perfect.

My Stuff:
PSU: 600w xion
CPU: E6600 usually at 3.4
RAM: 4 x 512, cas 5, corsair, I am thinking this might be the problem, got some new
stuff on the way here 
GPU: X 2, PALiT "sonic" 9600GT, 512
HDD: a couple of 250g in raid 0, Vista 32
Liquid: CPU, NB, SB

I need help getting SLI to work

AHHHHH


----------



## Rightwing

Ok thanks for the info.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88* 
I have a problem that maybe you guys can help me with.

I just got a second 9600GT for SLI, I enableded SLI in the controll pannel and all is good there. I was hoping to hit near 20k in 3DMark06, but instead I got a score of one 9600GT. So i did what anybody else would do, I updated graphics drivers, chipset drivers, and even the bios from 1401 to 1701, STILL NOTHING

Then I tried each card in each slot independent of each other. Tried the cards without the SLI bridge and still nothing. Then I went to the bios and looked around for a while. I tried the NB and SB at almost all voltages (both on liquid), ranged my CPU from stock 2.4 (E6600) to the highest bench able setting I can get... 3.9. NOTHING

I have tested each card and they both work perfect.

My Stuff:
PSU: 600w xion
CPU: E6600 usually at 3.4
RAM: 4 x 512, cas 5, corsair, I am thinking this might be the problem, got some new
stuff on the way here
GPU: X 2, PALiT "sonic" 9600GT, 512
HDD: a couple of 250g in raid 0, Vista 32
Liquid: CPU, NB, SB

I need help getting SLI to work

AHHHHH









Yep, it's likely going to be your memory. You need to get SLI and/or both EPP memory for it to work. What model do you have in there now? I recommend PC2-8500 Corsair or OCZ for your setup.

Your 3dMark will be around 17K.


----------



## Rightwing

I am currently using the 1203 bios on my board.I am getting ready to do some overclocking and was wondering if I should get the latest 1701 bios or stay with what I have?


----------



## drmartin48106

Any Suggestions on NB cooling? I need something that is either 1 in high or is off set / adjustable. I do not have much room with the aftermarket GPU coolers:


----------



## drmartin48106

sorry hare is a closer look at the room I have:


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


Any Suggestions on NB cooling? I need something that is either 1 in high or is off set / adjustable. I do not have much room with the aftermarket GPU coolers:


Looks like you're SOL with that GPU cooler. The only thing that came to mind is the Thermalright HR-05-SLI, but even that may not even work unless you use a narrower fan for your GPU. See a review here. Another brand makes one similar to this, but I can't remember what it was.









I would just pick up a 30mm fan and screw it to stock heat sink. I used these before I upgraded my stock heat pipes. The screws hold pretty well between the heat fins. They even work on the mosfets. Also, make sure your replace the stock thermal paste underneath those stock heat pipes.

Here's a couple pictures showing you what I did:
Here's that fan. You could just as easily mount it on the side rather than the top.
This is what your thermal paste looks like from ASUS(if you haven't fixed that already)
You can do this to your SB.
Here is another use for those 30mm fans.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Is the stock thermal paste, no good then?


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*












Question- Are those fans on your GPUs blowing down through the heatsinks? Which direction is your 9700 cooler blowing? If they aren't blowing the same direction, they will take a huge performance hit. Sorry if you are already aware of this. You never know.









Suggestion- using multiple smaller fans on those GPU coolers may be more effective than the one big one. I noticed how the outer heatpipes are only passively cooled. If you added a couple 40mm fans on each end of those coolers, you may get better results by actively cooling them.

EDIT: Oh yeah, and that kicks @$$ how you are supporting your VGAs!


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


Is the stock thermal paste, no good then?


Yeah, it's dried up and doing absolutely nothing.


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Paraleyes* 
Question- Are those fans on your GPUs blowing down through the heatsinks? Which direction is your 9700 cooler blowing? If they aren't blowing the same direction, they will take a huge performance hit. Sorry if you are already aware of this. You never know.









Suggestion- using multiple smaller fans on those GPU coolers may be more effective than the one big one. I noticed how the outer heatpipes are only passively cooled. If you added a couple 40mm fans on each end of those coolers, you may get better results by actively cooling them.

EDIT: Oh yeah, and that kicks @$$ how you are supporting your VGAs!









Every fan is blowing up cooling is excellent the NB is hot to the touch (OC 2.4 to 3.0) but I can keep me fnger on it without burning. While the fan is in the way its the heat sink that is really in then way. I have thought about adding active cooling to the fins off of the voltage regulators. Has anyone did this with measurable results (even stability ones). I did find one coller that might work I will try to find it again and post it for coments.

Thanks,
D

PS they were drooping about 1/4 in so I treaded some stainless steel rods I will post some picks or you can have a look at http://www.hardforum.com/showthread....186892&page=62


----------



## drmartin48106

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drmartin48106* 
Every fan is blowing up cooling is excellent the NB is hot to the touch (OC 2.4 to 3.0) but I can keep me fnger on it without burning. While the fan is in the way its the heat sink that is really in then way. I have thought about adding active cooling to the fins off of the voltage regulators. Has anyone did this with measurable results (even stability ones). I did find one coller that might work I will try to find it again and post it for coments.

Thanks,
D

PS they were drooping about 1/4 in so I treaded some stainless steel rods I will post some picks or you can have a look at http://www.hardforum.com/showthread....186892&page=62

Any thoughts on the following coolers:
http://www.mcubed-store.com/catalog/...roducts_id=193
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22898
http://www.xoxide.com/iceberq.html
http://www.bigbruin.com/2006/jts0006_1


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Paraleyes*


Yeah, it's dried up and doing absolutely nothing.










Just had it open for a photo shoot. I could have done it then








Oh well, putting a GTX 285 in there next month, so i'll do it then


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drmartin48106* 
PS they were drooping about 1/4 in so I treaded some stainless steel rods I will post some picks or you can have a look at http://www.hardforum.com/showthread....186892&page=62

I checked that out. Very cool man! You should start a thread on that with those pictures and see what kind of response you get from it.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drmartin48106*


Any thoughts on the following coolers:
http://www.mcubed-store.com/catalog/...roducts_id=193
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22898
http://www.xoxide.com/iceberq.html
http://www.bigbruin.com/2006/jts0006_1


I don't think any of those will work for your NB. I took some time staring at your pictures and I think the Thermalright HR-05-SLI will work for you, but you will need to remove that top GPU fan and get creative with the use of a few smaller fans to cool the two heatsinks together. The Thermalright HR-05-SLI should fit right between your 9700 and your GPU cooler.

That Vantec Iceberg would work very well for your SB though. Remove the AI sticker over the SB and use some Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive to stick it over the Stock ASUS heat block. That will make a heck of a difference on your SB temps. Also using fans on your Mosfets heatsinks will lower the connected chipset temps as well. Try some of those 30mm fans I suggested. You would have to remove the heat pipes to install them though.

EDIT: Do you have enough room in your case to mount those coolers below your VGAs rather than on top? That would solve your problem right there.


----------



## Heavy Light 117

My north bridge is running at 82C. South bridge is at 60C. What happens to the warranty if you remove and apply arctic silver on these components?


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Heavy Light 117*


My north bridge is running at 82C. South bridge is at 60C. What happens to the warranty if you remove and apply arctic silver on these components?


I really don't know, but when you consider how many people take apart their $4-$500 VGAs and put water blocks on them, you would have to assume that it doesn't effect the warranty. I know I wouldn't risk voiding my warranty on such an expensive item. When I did my MB mod, I knew my warranty was already expired. However, I do know I'm extending the life of my components by upgrading the thermal paste though. Maybe email your manufacturer for confirmation?


----------



## mica3speedy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rightwing* 
I am currently using the 1203 bios on my board.I am getting ready to do some overclocking and was wondering if I should get the latest 1701 bios or stay with what I have?

As long as you still have the e6600 I would stick with the 1203 bios, which is the best overclocking bios for that chip. As long as everything works, why change it? The new bios'es are for newer chip compatibility.


----------



## Rightwing

Ok thanks for your input.


----------



## Matty J

Heya guys,

I'm not sure whether this thread is still on going but its the only one on the net that i can find to do with the P5N32-E SLI.

I'm having a little problem with voltages not being what i set them to in bios.

I have a Q6600 GO running at 2.4GHz at 1.25v set in the BIOS. I can get to 2.7 without changing the voltage at all. When i go to 3.0GHz i set the Voltage to 1.3v and all booted up fine and works. BUT... when i open CPUZ it is saying that the voltage is at 1.38v!

This means it produces more heat than need be!..

Ive looked through all settings and fiddled with all other voltages but cant seem to find what/why it is jumping to 1.38 - 1.40v! I am right this is too high to just 3.0GHz!??

Is it a problem with my Mobo? or do i just have a stupid Chip??

Thanks for anyones help in advance.

Matt


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Matty J* 
Heya guys,

I'm not sure whether this thread is still on going but its the only one on the net that i can find to do with the P5N32-E SLI.

I'm having a little problem with voltages not being what i set them to in bios.

I have a Q6600 GO running at 2.4GHz at 1.25v set in the BIOS. I can get to 2.7 without changing the voltage at all. When i go to 3.0GHz i set the Voltage to 1.3v and all booted up fine and works. BUT... when i open CPUZ it is saying that the voltage is at 1.38v!

This means it produces more heat than need be!..

Ive looked through all settings and fiddled with all other voltages but cant seem to find what/why it is jumping to 1.38 - 1.40v! I am right this is too high to just 3.0GHz!??

Is it a problem with my Mobo? or do i just have a stupid Chip??

Thanks for anyones help in advance.

Matt

Thread is still on going, last post was 17h ago.

I think you have to do a biosupdate. I'm running over 3.0Ghz with stock-volts. I had the same problem as you, at the same Hz. Unstable at 2.8Ghz, sometimes boot failures, and reboot was necessary. Update you bios, put volts on stock-values and you should be fine I think.

Good Luck!


----------



## kidylimp

hi, My psu is broken im planing to buy another one, can you tell will this be OK with my system http://cgi.ebay.ie/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=390033245185 ..

its 700watt with +12v1 20 amp +12v2 20 amp

or will I go for EZcool 600watt with +12V1 20 amp +12v2 20amp which is cheaper

I have sli 9600gt 1 gb.


----------



## Tarabass

Search for a power supply calculator. Think that the 600W will be enough (don't let them fool you in the hype that is going on), but you can calculate that by yourself


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tarabass* 
Search for a power supply calculator. Think that the 600W will be enough (don't let them fool you in the hype that is going on), but you can calculate that by yourself









Power supply calculator







http://www.extreme.outervision.com/p...ulatorlite.jsp


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


Power supply calculator







http://www.extreme.outervision.com/p...ulatorlite.jsp


Something like that, although this one seems to calculate a bit to high to me


----------



## Kirmie

been months since I've read through this so have there been any bios updates that people think would be help for my system? I use the latest posted by Robilar on the first
if i remember correctly


----------



## Matty J

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tarabass*


Thread is still on going, last post was 17h ago.

I think you have to do a biosupdate. I'm running over 3.0Ghz with stock-volts. I had the same problem as you, at the same Hz. Unstable at 2.8Ghz, sometimes boot failures, and reboot was necessary. Update you bios, put volts on stock-values and you should be fine I think.

Good Luck!










Okay i will try the latest BIOS. I think its 1701 or something... Anyone had any issues with it?


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kirmie* 
been months since I've read through this so have there been any bios updates that people think would be help for my system? I use the latest posted by Robilar on the first
if i remember correctly

Are you having any issues now? If not, there isn't any need to change it unless you plan on installing a newer CPU. Don't try to fix what is not broke.


----------



## Matty J

Okay Guys, I have just updated to Bios 1701.

I used the Asus Update program from inside windows and all has gone well.

Although i have kinda just scared my self.

As this is my 1st bios update in years and things have changed alot. When the Pc rebooted i went into BIOS and told it to reset all setting to default just to make sure it would boot into windows. And it did. I then restarted the PC and decided to OC my Q6600 again.
After setting all the setting when i hit "save and exit" i got a message saying something along the lines of "updating **something** table"... i was like :S?? never seen that before.. when the comp restarted it failed to get to windows and got stuck on a page with aload of random words and symbols, i didnt manage to get a pick of it as i pooped myself and restarted the comp straight away to get back into bios and reset to default. Everything seems to be fine now but i was just wondering if this is normal or did something go wrong?

Anyone else had issues like this witht he new BIOS?


----------



## Matty J

This is what i get When i set the fsb to 1200 to get 2.7GHz. Sorry for the blury ness but ost is readable.. was taken from my phone in a hurry. lol




























I have no idea what this means..Anyone now what this means or is caused by... I have a feeling it is something to do with my memory..???


----------



## Tarabass

And if you reset everything is normal? Did you unsync your memory, and what kind of memory is it. I'm am not familiar with this error at all, sorry. But cause you mentioned your thoughts about the mem. you see..


----------



## Matty J

TaraBass.

I seem to have fixed this issue.. sort off atleast. If i set the fsb to 1333 (3Ghz) unlinked to the memory still at 800Mhz it will boot into windows perfectly well. BUT.... after about 3 mins i get a BSOD saying

##### Hardware Malfuntion #####

Please contact the manufacturer

### Your system has halted ###

It think this is because my NB Vcore is too low.

My memory is 2x 1GB Kingston Supertalent. Its nothing special but runs at 5-5-5-15 2T timings. I'm thinking of getting myself 4gb of ballistix 1066 for the upcoming Windows 7.

I think for sum reason it doesnt like 2.7. but i aint going to complain if i can get 3Ghz working fine. I will set my NB to 1.3v manually, i think its at 1.2 on Auto.. not sure.. hopefully this will make it work.


----------



## Tarabass

Be careful with linked memory, and overclocking. You could bake your memory









Why don't you bring down your fsb, and looks if it's stable. If it is you have a pointer and go from there. Imo you are doing two things at the time, in other words that's the way I would do it. Now I'm not that great overclocker and can learn a lot from people at this board, but I'm love to be secure and want to have a pointer to go back to. Save the profile in your bios with stock-volts and lower (stable) fsb-value, and you can go from there.

Glad to here that you are back in windows again, felt a little bad after recommend the bios-update. It worked for me, but every system is another system. Maybe some overclock-guru can help you (us) from your stable settings to a stable hardcore setting


----------



## Matty J

My memory is Un-linked from my fsb so although my cpu fsb is at 1333 my memory still runs at 800mhz so it is not boosted at all. slight bottleneck though so thats why im opting form some 1066 ballistix.

I have got my system stable now. no more BSOD.. after re-reading the 1st post on my dads PC i upped to NB to 1.3 as it was on 1.2 and all seems fine.. have run 3Dmark06 CPU test to stress it a little as well as a few games of BF2 and nothing has happend!.. woop.

Thanks for recomending the BIOS dude, all has worked out well in the end it just boiled down to me being a dum nut lmao... serves me right for starting at 8 in the mornin lmao.. hadnt woken up.

So to sum up. Thanks to you TaraBass my cpu voltage is now registering the same in BIOS as in windows, my cpu is now at 3.0Ghz and my temps are idle 25oc and load (3DMark06) 32-35. So i am now happy.

I'm thinking of buying another 9800GTX+ and going SLI, i currently have a 650w PSU, i take it this is not enough for 2 cards, what should i go for? 850 or higher.

Once again. Thanks alot!


----------



## Tarabass

NP m8! We are here to help each other. You may give me some rep-points if you want, you would have the dubious honor to be the first









Again, I'm not a die hard overclocker but had the same problems. It was very similar to what I experienced with this MB and CPU. Fortunately I have some overclock-memorymodules so I can push them a bit to be not that bottleneck where you are talking about. Buy some new ones and you will have one balanced machine.

About the extra videocard, I'm not a sli-fan. For that 10% of extra power I would buy a newer (ati is the fastest card atm, quality price ratio) graca. Then you have a energy efficient system, without the produce of much heat.

But if you want to calculate yourself how much power you will need, at the previous page is a link to a PSU calculator. Considering that stable would be the keyword in your choice for a new PSU.

Again no problem helping you out. There will be a point you may help me out with my problems


----------



## Ronll

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Matty J* 
I'm thinking of buying another 9800GTX+ and going SLI, i currently have a 650w PSU, i take it this is not enough for 2 cards, what should i go for? 850 or higher.

Once again. Thanks alot!

im having 2* 9800GTX+ IN SLI , Q6600 @ 2.4 right now
on a 600W ZALMAN , with more than 1 rail , so you shuld be good with 650W
what is the exact model?


----------



## Matty J

My PSU is a Coolermaster Extreme Power 650w. Link

It only has Two 6pin power connectors which are currently beeing used by the 9800 i have. i would have to run the other card on molex - PCI converters if i was to get one as it doesnt have the extra two.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matty J*


My PSU is a Coolermaster Extreme Power 650w. Link

It only has Two 6pin power connectors which are currently beeing used by the 9800 i have. i would have to run the other card on molex - PCI converters if i was to get one as it doesnt have the extra two.


That is a pretty low end PSU and at only 70% efficiency, I would pick up a new 750 by a more reputable manufacturer before you buy another VGA. Especially if you have multiple drives, fans and any other devices in your system already. It may perform pretty well with a new VGA at 1st, but after some time you will likely begin noticing both VGAs running hotter with a decrease in performance and lower FPS while gaming.


----------



## datter

Hey all, first post here and a question about this board and overclocking with my particular system. Specs:

Quote:



Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.40GHz 8MB
ASUS P5N32-E SLI LGA775 Motherboard
OCZ DDR2 PC2-9200 (1150MHz DDR2) Reaper HPC Edition (2x 1gb)
OCZ GameXstream 850W SLI PSU
OCZ Vendetta 2 cpu cooler
BFG 8800GT OC 512MB PCIe Video Cards (x2 SLI)
Western Digital Raptor 150Gb 10000Rpm WD1500ADFD (x2)
Microsoft Windows XP Pro SP3


I'm currently running the 1205 BIOS, which is just what happened to ship with the board. I've been desperately trying to get a decent overclock but having NO luck at all. I can get to 2.7ghz ok, and managed to get to 30.ghz last night but that was with my vcore set to 1.45v which seems a bit high. I've been leaving my NBvolts etc to auto as I only have the stock, passive cooling there and I'm scared I'll catch something on fire.

Also, I've got some OCZ Reaper 9200 ram in there (as per specs above) and have been reading about some apparent issues with certain this board, certain BIOS revisions and OCZ ram. As discussed *here* for instance though I'm not sure that applies to me, of if my RAM is even causing any problems with my so far failed overclocks.

What's happening with the OC is that as per the beginning of this guide, I disable the various things, like Speedstep and whatnot then set my mem voltage at 2.1v and leave the timings as auto. I then enter in an FSB to give me 3.0ghz (for instance) and typically get a failed boot (won't pass post) or I'll get to the BIOS loading screen where it says "hit delete to enter bios" but it will be hung there. I even get that at 2.7ghz sometimes, and even if I smack the vcore setting up to 1.45v.

So a few questions for anyone willing to help me out.

Should I be upping my Northbridge volts, and if so to what? Do you suppose NBvolts to auto would be preventing me from getting any sort of overclock?
Also if so, how far can I up it without worrying about overheating given my passive cooling situation?
Is it advised to update my BIOS from 1205 to 1701, as I see that's the latest?
Does OCZ ram cause any issues that might be the source of my problems?
ANY help is appreciated, I've been at this for days now and have gotten exactly nowhere. I'm reading through this thread slowly, but it's 540 some odd pages long.









Thanks,
datter


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *datter*


So a few questions for anyone willing to help me out.

Should I be upping my Northbridge volts, and if so to what? Do you suppose NBvolts to auto would be preventing me from getting any sort of overclock?
Also if so, how far can I up it without worrying about overheating given my passive cooling situation?
Is it advised to update my BIOS from 1205 to 1701, as I see that's the latest?
Does OCZ ram cause any issues that might be the source of my problems?


Welcome to OCN!
Yes, up your NB volts to at least 1.45.
1.5 is safe if you have fair air-flow through your case. You could order one of these little fans and screw it right to the top of your NB heatsink for some added help. See pic below.
Your BIOS should be fine with your 65nm CPU
I've only heard good things about the OCZ memory on this board, but I don't use it myself. Updating the BIOS is easy enough. See if that helps
Also, go back and read the 1st post on this thread by Robilar and follow his recommendations per his pics and you should be set. 3.4GHz should be no problem for you. Many have hit 3.6GHz with the Q6600. Good luck!


----------



## datter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Paraleyes*


Welcome to OCN!
Yes, up your NB volts to at least 1.45.
1.5 is safe if you have fair air-flow through your case. You could order one of these little fans and screw it right to the top of your NB heatsink for some added help. See pic below.
Your BIOS should be fine with your 65nm CPU
I've only heard good things about the OCZ memory on this board, but I don't use it myself. Updating the BIOS is easy enough. See if that helps
Also, go back and read the 1st post on this thread by Robilar and follow his recommendations per his pics and you should be set. 3.4GHz should be no problem for you. Many have hit 3.6GHz with the Q6600. Good luck!


Thank you very much for that, perhaps the core of my problem (no pun intended) was that I was leaving my NBvolts to auto. I'll look into the cooler thing too, I suppose that means I should actually locate my NorthBridge in there somewhere.







I _do_ have a spare 120mm fan I'm not using, I could always install that in front to pull cool air into the case. Think that would help? I've got a 120mm blowing out the back, and another 120mm blowing out the top plus the 120mm on the vendetta cooler itself. I guess more is always good.

I'd rather avoid flshing my BIOS, that being scary and all so I will try adding some NBvolts tonight, following along as the first post says see what happens. I've also read somewhere (maybe in this mighty thread) that the CPU VTT Voltage = should be 1.55v? EDIT: nm, I see it is in fact at the beginning of this mega thread.

At any rate, will post my results. Thanks for the encouraging words, I've been getting pretty discouraged.


----------



## datter

ok, an update. After carefully following the first post in this thread I seem to have an overclock of some kind. The only thing different with the initial instructions here is that my NBvolts are at 1.45v instead of 1.4 as I believe it originally said. I am now sitting at a 3.0ghz OC, though my vcore is at 1.45ghz to get here. I left my ram timings to auto also, and set to unlinked with my otherwise speedy ram only at 667mhz as Windows was failing to load and I had to try something. Not sure it that did the trick or I just got lucky this boot.

Since I'm up for the moment I thought I'd post a pic of my HWMonitor info to see if anyone sees anything scary. Where exactly is my Northbridge temp in this?










I'm going to reboot a few times, the run some prime95 and see if this is even stable. Would value any feedback on where I am with regards to the above image, and how I might get to 3.4 from here.

EDIT: The above are all idle temps just to be clear.


----------



## Paraleyes

Datter of fact, that's looking good. Bump your RAM up to 1066 for starters and keep it unlinked.

Absolutely put a fan in the the front of your case blowing in! It's a good idea to keep in the back of your mind roughly the CFM(air-flow) entering your case as well as the CFM as exhaust and try to keep them close to the same for maximum efficiency. As you are right now, you have some negative pressure inside your case. That doesn't mean anything for nothing other than those two 120mm exhaust fans are working harder than they need to.

Keep an eye on your SB temps too. A fast and easy way to cool your SB is to peel off that AI shield from it and stick a small VGA/chipset cooler on it with a bit of thermal adhesive. If you're not sure what is what on your MB, check out the link in my signature. There are many pictures identifying what's what in there.


----------



## datter

Hey again. A bit of news.

I set the timings (5-5-5-18-2 clocks) as per the spec for my ram, and boosted the mhz to 1150mhz as lited, and couldn't get past post. I tried it with timings to auto, same result. I then left them on auto and tried 800mhz and got into Windows seemingly fine. After a bit of testing etc I decided to peer into my case for something and on restarting found I again, could not pass post. It would hang at the bios loading screen all over again. When I finally did get in I chickened out and reset factory defaults, so here I am at 2.4ghz again.

Now I may be able to leave my mem timings to auto and mhz to 667 and boot up again no problem, that was working fine before I started messing with my ram settings. That said, the reason I was peering into my case was to look into how I might arrange a Northbridge cooling.

I ran Everest and was appalled to see my Northbridge at 90deg and Southbridge at 60 or so. Thus, when I finally did get back into the BIOS I was rather keen to restore factory defaults until I sort out some cooling. Now having said _that_ running Everest now that I'm back at default and I see my Northbridge is at 89 as I type this, and the South is at 56. I assume this has to do with the fact that my new tower cooler (the Vendetta 2) provides NO downward cooling at all, it's all horizontal out the back.

So, two questions for you or anyone willing to answer.

Will I fry anything on this machine running it like this until I get a cooler sorted out?
Will a small 40mm fan attached to the Northbridge heatsink help me out much?
Once I get my cooling worked out I plan to revisit this OC business, by trying auto timings at 667 and see how that goes, then I can sort out why I can't raise my mem values. For now, I'm all about cooling and rather concerned I'm going to melt something even at stock speed here.

Thanks.


----------



## datter

ok wait, NOW I'm confused.

I just popped my case cover off and touched what I believe to be the Northbridge (on my rig it's a got a copper heat sink on it, right next to the main CPU. I could hold my hand on that indefinitely... it's just warm. When touching what I thought was the Southbridge (the one with no heatsink and a sticker on it) I found it got a bit to warm to touch after 10 seconds or more.

Maybe I have these two mixed up, best go look at those pics you talked about.

EDIT: ok, I think I was right... the Northbridge is up near the CPU as per *this pic]* correct?

If that's the case it's a pretty cool 90deg on my system, as said I can touch it indefinitely. Maybe Everest is giving me faulty temps?


----------



## datter

ok, really sorry to be obtuse here but I want to be clear what I'm talking about because I think I may have this backwards. This pic is the same as my mobo... do I have this right?










If I'm right about that then Everest is about lying to me on temps, so how exactly does one go about measuring their north and south temps properly?

If I'm indeed backwards on this and have the two mixed up, then Everest might be right as it's telling me my north is hotter than my south... so would 90deg fry anything until I sort out some cooling?


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robilar For Datter*


Here are the things you need to turn off in the bios before beginning:

Extreme Tweaker Screen:
Nvidia GPU Ex: Disable it (Known to cause issues)
Linkboost: Disable it (Known to cause issues) (No longer available in bios 1002)
Spread Spectrum Control: Disable all of them

Execute Disable Bit: Disable it

Virtualization Technology: Disable it

Enhanced Intel Speedstep: Disable it

Enhanced C1 (C1E): Disable it

Legacy USB Support: Disable it

HPET: Disable it


Be sure to do the above. I disabled everything. I think there are a couple others in there that Robilar didn't mention. I'm not sure if they matter too, but they're off in my BIOS.

You got the two chips right. The best thing you can do to your motherboard is to replace the thermal paste on those chips. If you're uncomfortable with those voltages, don't run them. You can never go wrong listening to your gut, but I'll say that there are tons of people running those temps with the stock dried up thermal paste on their MBs.

Go unlinked, leave your RAM settings on AUTO/default whatever and just mess with the speed for now, but make sure they are running close to the right voltages. What you want to focus on is your FSB though.

Set your FSB to 1600 and Memory to 1066 with your voltages back up. See what happens. I wouldn't be surprised if it boots right up. This board has had issues with certain settings on certain BIOS versions. Somewheres between 2.7GHz and 3.0GHz if I remember correctly from when I was 1st OCing my E6600. I had all kinds of issues until I jumped straight past to 3.2GHz. If it doesn't work, just reboot.


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *datter*


ok wait, NOW I'm confused.
Maybe I have these two mixed up, best go look at those pics you talked about.


Just think of the north and south in RealLife. Your NB is at the top (like the north in RL) and you SB is at the south (like in RL). It is just that simpel m8









But is you have your mobo up-side-down perhaps my tip won't work out that well. But if you have that you won't be able to stick in your usb, dvi and other connecters


----------



## datter

Thanks for the info on nb/sb, that helps. I was over thinking it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Paraleyes*


Go unlinked, leave your RAM settings on AUTO/default whatever and just mess with the speed for now, but make sure they are running close to the right voltages. What you want to focus on is your FSB though.

Set your FSB to 1600 and Memory to 1066 with your voltages back up. See what happens. I wouldn't be surprised if it boots right up. This board has had issues with certain settings on certain BIOS versions. Somewheres between 2.7GHz and 3.0GHz if I remember correctly from when I was 1st OCing my E6600. I had all kinds of issues until I jumped straight past to 3.2GHz. If it doesn't work, just reboot.


Anything other the 667mhz on my ram seems to prevent a consistent boot. Tried FSB 1600, and all sort of other combos to no effect. Given that I've read the newer BIOS's have updates for "newer" memory I keep reverting back to wondering if flashing to 1701 might help sort me out in the department.

Understanding the scariness of BIOS updating (yes, it scares the crap out of me) is 1701 generally known as good or bad? It's a good number in as far as Star Trek is concerned, I'd just like to know if it's a well known disaster before I give it any more thought.


----------



## datter

hmm further reading about this mobo show the memory ratings for it at Dual-channel DDR2 800/667/533.

I guess that means the most I can run this 1150mhz memory at is 800? I guess I could change my timings from 5-5-5-18 though?

At any rate, still wondering if he 1701 bios is worth updating to from 1205 to possibly get beyond the 3.0ghz mark.

Sorry for the multiposting, just trying to sort this out.


----------



## Paraleyes

Messing around with your timings before your FSB and CPU are stable is only going to waste your time and frustrate you further. Flash to 1701 if you're having issues. Leave your memory timings alone until you you max out your FSB and yes, you can overclock past 800MHz. Did I mention to leave your memory timings on auto?


----------



## datter

ok, mem timings and all that will be left to auto for now.







Since I can't get past the 2.7/3.0 range at all I'm thinking I'll go ahead with the BIOS update to 1701 and see if that gets me anywhere.


----------



## Tarabass

You have to update your bios to work around those problems you have. Matty J and I had the same problems as you can read at the previous pages and it helped me out and now it helped him out. Use the asus update tool and you will stay out of trouble. I don't know how old you are but it is not the same as in the early years, it's quiet easy. Just shutdown most of your programs and let it do the job. After the reboot it will update your processor and stuff like that and will boot to windows after a time.

After that, and with the correct NB-settings as Matty J mentioned, you will get across the 3Ghz-limit very easy


----------



## datter

oh my sweet Jesus on a pogostick I just scared this **** out of myself.

I went out and picked up a little 1gb USB stick as I didn't have one around, popped the 1701 BIOS on there, stuck it in the back and rebooted into EZFlash. Sadly it didn't see the stick for some reason. So, I spent a good hour hunting around for an answer to that finally deciding to make the stick bootable and update the BIOS from there with awflash. As I rebooted, and just out of habit, I hit delete to enter set up again instead of letting it boot from the stick. While there I thought ah hell, let's see if EZFlash sees it... and hey, it did!

So, I happily pick my new BIOS and click "yes update the damned thing" or whatever it said. After saying "please please please" the entire time of the update, it said it completed ok and would reboot my system in 5 seconds which it did. *TO A SOLID BLACK SCREEN*. I had nothing. The cursing was unbelievable. Pulled the USB stick and switched off/on again. Black screen, and further cursing. As I looked at it before this BIOS update could have one of three outcomes.

It updates ok, and I'm able to get better overclocks.
It updates ok, and my overclocks are the same.
It doesn't update ok and I'm _totally screwed_.
At this point I was looking at #3. After a wee bit more cursing I checked this thread again on my laptop and noticed waaaay back on page 10 or so Robilar was telling Dijonace to pull his CMOS battery for a few seconds to sort out a problem he had with a black screen (though his was caused by a mistaken setting in the BIOS). I literally ran back downstairs and pulled the battery and waited an eternity (a few minutes)... stuck it back in and...

BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOT!!!

Holy hell and jumping moses I couldn't believe it. I was already running through the options in my head of a new mobo, a visit to the local shop etc. I haven't been this relieved/happy since probably ever. I have yet to test my OC potential with this BIOS but at this point I will HAPPILY accept outcome #2 above, while just hoping for #1.

This may never have even been a big deal for all I know, but it sure was to me. For the save... THANK YOU ROBILAR and THANK YOU DIJONACE and THANK YOU OVERCLOCK.NET.

Sorry for the long story but I think I'm suffering from post traumatic stress disorder or something. I need to go lay down now.


----------



## Tarabass

ROFL! Sweaty hands it is lol. Glad to hear it worked out fine. You aren't running windows btw 'cause you just good pick the asus update tool? Well, it works. Happy overclocking!


----------



## datter

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tarabass* 
ROFL! Sweaty hands it is lol. Glad to hear it worked out fine. You aren't running windows btw 'cause you just good pick the asus update tool? Well, it works. Happy overclocking!









Windows XP here, but I've heard scary things about it and that it's better to update from the BIOS (as said in the very first post of this thread in fact). Given how this went, maybe I'll try that next time... if there is a next time. Hopefully not.


----------



## Tarabass

I heard some scary things about the manual update-procedure. The last time was a couple of hours ago I can tell you lol. Well, doesn't matter it works fine (for now). Overclocking yet?

Guys, can you help me out overclocking my memory on this board? Am talking about my GeIl black dragon 4x1GB. I'm planning to overclock it to 1066 on 2.1v. I heard this can be done safely, but does somebody have experience with this settings? And do I have to adjust my timing which is on 4-4-4-8 atm? The max. volts of this pair of memory is 2.4 btw.

[edit]Hmm, never mind. Just found a article about the memory set with great results. Tomorrow I will push it some levels higher









Article


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *datter*


oh my sweet Jesus on a pogostick I just scared this **** out of myself.

Holy hell and jumping moses I couldn't believe it. . .


Yeah, as I mentioned in those PMs, the ASUS utility is much less stressful. I'm glad it flashed okay after all.

You are quite the story teller. That was a fun read.









Be sure to post your results here after OCing!


----------



## datter

Well results so far...

Volts and other settings as described in the original post
Multiplier of 9
FSB of 1333
RAM timings left to auto for now
RAM mhz set to 857

I'm stable at 3.0ghz with decent temps, though Everest is still telling me my Northbridge is running at 90c and Soutbridge at 58c. That said, if I physically touch them the NB feels only slight warm, and the SB I can only touch for 10 seconds or so. Seems like Everest is getting the two mixed up? I attached a small 30mm fan to the heatsink on my NB and noticed no difference in temp at all, as far as Everest says so I'm not sure I trust it. Anyone know of another app to check these temps? I tried Speedfan but I'll be damned if I can sort out which ones are NB/SB. Some temps in speedfan show up in the negative too... one is -55c. :O

At any rate, I've tried numerous combinations of settings to get to 3.2, 3.4, 3.6 and even 3.8 but it always fails to post. This has mainly just been by raising my FSB and hoping for the best to no avail.

Any suggestions or tips on how I can get past this 3.0ghz wall would be great. I'd love to reach 3.4 at least.


----------



## ACHILEE5

What about the ASUS pc probe?
Oh, forget that. It doesn't do NB/SB temps ;-(
Just MoBo and CPU


----------



## Tarabass

HWMonitor?


----------



## datter

HWMonitor shows me my NB/SB volts, I don't believe it shows me temps... not in an obvious place I've noticed anyway. I just got back from the computer shop with a small heat sink and fan, so I'm going to build myself a little southbridge cooler although I'll have to cut this heat sink down a bit. I hope that will help keep the temps down, especially if I can figure out how to get past 3.0ghz.

Still open to suggestions.


----------



## Paraleyes

What fan and heatsink did you buy for your SB? If you attach it, make sure you remove the AI label/shield 1st and clean up the top of that stock cooling block. After doing mine, I decided to take it all apart again and lap the top of the stock heat pipe cooling block. Lapping the top of that stock block will make a few degrees difference. Lapping is not 100% necessary, but I'd say replacing the stock thermal paste on those chips should be top priority. Use thermal adhesive to attach it as long as you know you have all the future clearance you need. Most thermal adhesive is permanent.


----------



## datter

I'm actually making a SB cooler myself from a nice little heatsink and a small fan. Not idea by any means, but it should help some anyway. I already dug that metal sticker thing off of there.... why the hell would they put that on there in the first place?


----------



## datter

oh good the new guy has another question. There I said it for you.









I just checked something out. I have my vcore set to 1.425v in my BIOS at the moment... it was 1.45v but I just wanted to see if I could boot with it down a bit, and I can. So with it set at 1.425 in my BIOS, CPUZ is telling me from Windows that my vcore is 1.408v

I assume this is "vdroop"... and I wonder if a drop from 1.425 BIOS to 1.408 in Windows is a lot and if so what I can do about it. I read _something_ about a pencil mod, which just by the very sound of it alone I'm not up for though I should probably read about it I guess. Can I just crank my vcore up in the BIOS enough to make up for the droop, and will that work? If I set it to say 1.49v (-ish) BIOS side, that should give me 1.45v while in Windows I assume.

Think this has anything to do with my 3.0ghz wall?


----------



## datter

UPDATE: Wow I say.

I just built myself a home made cooler for my southbridge consisting of a copper heatsink and a small 30mm fan. I hack sawed the heatsink to size (it was a bit big) and screwed the fan to it with two old woodscrews. Yes, woodscrews. I then proceeded to apply AS5 to the underside and two tiny dabs of high heat epoxy on two corners, then pushed that down into my southbridge.

While waiting for the wee amount of epoxy to cure, I decided to stick this extra 120mm fan in so I popped off three covers in front under my DVD-Burner and thanks to the extra casing on the fan found it slid in the hole pretty well... so I stuck it in. Just to make sure it would stay put while testing I wrapped a rubber band around it and tied it off to the case inside. Yes, a rubber band.

I then plugged the little southbridge cooler into the mobo (for speed control purposes), and the 120mm into the powersupply. Since it has a little low/med/high switch dangling off it on a wire, I left that sticking out the side of the case so I can leave it at low... but crank it up to high if my house ever catches on fire. Given the work I'm putting into this, no I will *not* be evacuating if my house catches fire so the switch may come in handy.

I just fired the system up and here are the results.

*Southbridge at idle*
Before homemade cooler... 90c
After... 68c (that's *23 degrees*!)

*CPU temps at idle*
Before 120mm fan in front... average of mid 40's
After... average of mid 30's

I am crazily happy with these new temps and my amazing Woodscrew Southbridge Cooler™, and Rubber Band Intake Fan™.

VERY impressed. Now, if only I could get this damn things clocked over 3.0.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Wood screws you say








So whats the cooler made form, a block of wood with a few nails stuck in








Good to see it's sorted


----------



## Tarabass

I'm not at home (working atm







) but just up your FSB Datter. I'm at 1448 with no problems, don't know my volts but can check them out for you if you want. That's 3,24Ghz. Did have it on 3,46Ghz but was unstable. But will work that out. maybe some other die hard overclocker can help us out by showing us there bios-settings!?

Tip: Save your current stable config in profile 1. Up your FSB and if it boots save it as Profile 2 in your bios. After a while and some tests of course and you find it stable, overwrite and save the bios in profile 1, and overclock again saving it in profile 2. hope this helpes.


----------



## datter

I saved my 3.0ghz OC into profile 1 so I can try something new in profile 2 and not delete my good 3.0 settings. Nice feature that.

Any time I raise my FSB above 1333 is fails to post, which makes me think it might be volt related... I'm just not sure how high I can raise that stuff without it being a concern. I'd love to hear what yours are when you get the time, just for some relative comparison.


----------



## Tarabass

The voltage-range of the Q6600 is between 0.85V and 1.5V. Try setting it on 1.5V and try to boot with higher FSB. If it does you can lower the volts and look what the min. is of your volts.

Will look this evening what my settings are atm. Will come back to you later


----------



## datter

Great thanks, here's a related question.. I think I'm suffering from vdroop which to my understanding is a lowering of the vcore voltage while under load. Here are my current accurate voltages as set in the BIOS. Please ignore any of the above volt info just for clarity.

*Voltages:*
vcore : 1.425
memory :2.1 (factory spec)
1.2v HT : 1.3
NB core : 1.4
SB core : 1.5
CPU VTT : 1.55

This gets me a stable 3.0ghz. At idle in Windows (using CPUZ and HWMonitor) I see my Vcore voltage goes down to 1.408, from 1.425 set in the BIOS. Under load (test with Prime95, Flight Sim X at max settings, and Burnout Paradise at max settings) it drops to 1.38 or so, and I saw one dip down to 1.376... again, that's from a setting of 1.425v in the BIOS.

Think this might have something to do with my 3.0 wall? I can try setting it to 1.5v as mentioned above, which means it would drop down to something in the 1.455 range under load. That might be worth a shot.

I'm definitely interested in hearing your other voltages as well when you get the chance. Thanks again.


----------



## Tarabass

Okay m8, here are my settings. Some of them are temporary, like the cpu volts which I still want to bring down as much as possible and the memory settings which I am overclocking at the moment but with no success. The settings are from top to bottom, and working and stable.

*System clock*:
100 / 100 / 100 / auto

*FSB & Memory config*:
unlinked / 1440 / 800 <- 1440 == 3,24Ghz

*About voltage*:
Vcore 1,50000 <- still have to drop it
Memory 1,900 <- due to lack of time still have to OC it
1.2V HT 1,30
NB 1,40
SB 1,50
CPU VTT 1,55
DDRII auto / auto / auto

nvidia GPU ex = enabled <- don't know if that's good lol

*Temps*:
CPU 32
M/B 31

If you want to know more let me know. NP helping you out









*NOTE*:
Your vdrop also can be caused by a unstable PSU. Are you in the position trying a other one? And can somebody tell me if my thoughts are right, 'cause it's just a thought. Nothing scientific


----------



## datter

hmm, virtually identical settings to mine though my vcore is set a bit lower and as said lowers itself still more under load thanks to some vdroop. I guess 1.5v is as far as I should push that... so when it drops under load it will be a 1.455v. I guess I'll give that a shot, as said, and see if I can get 3.2 at least.

Might be my PS is causing issues. It's as new as the rest of the system and a pretty good performer from what I've read. LACK of power certainly isn't the issue at 850w but maybe it's not "clean" for whatever reason.

Failing any further suggestions, I'll try the 1.5v thing and see what that gets me. If it gets me nowhere I guess I'll just be happy with 3.0.









EDIT: Oh, thanks very much for posting that. I appreciate it.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *datter*


hmm, virtually identical settings to mine though my vcore is set a bit lower and as said lowers itself still more under load thanks to some vdroop. I guess 1.5v is as far as I should push that... so when it drops under load it will be a 1.455v. I guess I'll give that a shot, as said, and see if I can get 3.2 at least.

Might be my PS is causing issues. It's as new as the rest of the system and a pretty good performer from what I've read. LACK of power certainly isn't the issue at 850w but maybe it's not "clean" for whatever reason.

Failing any further suggestions, I'll try the 1.5v thing and see what that gets me. If it gets me nowhere I guess I'll just be happy with 3.0.









EDIT: Oh, thanks very much for posting that. I appreciate it.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *datter*


Great thanks, here's a related question.. I think I'm suffering from vdroop which to my understanding is a lowering of the vcore voltage while under load. Here are my current accurate voltages as set in the BIOS. Please ignore any of the above volt info just for clarity.

*Voltages:*
vcore : 1.425
memory :2.1 (factory spec)
1.2v HT : 1.3
NB core : 1.4
SB core : 1.5
CPU VTT : 1.55

This gets me a stable 3.0ghz. At idle in Windows (using CPUZ and HWMonitor) I see my Vcore voltage goes down to 1.408, from 1.425 set in the BIOS. Under load (test with Prime95, Flight Sim X at max settings, and Burnout Paradise at max settings) it drops to 1.38 or so, and I saw one dip down to 1.376... again, that's from a setting of 1.425v in the BIOS.

Think this might have something to do with my 3.0 wall? I can try setting it to 1.5v as mentioned above, which means it would drop down to something in the 1.455 range under load. That might be worth a shot.

I'm definitely interested in hearing your other voltages as well when you get the chance. Thanks again.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *datter*


oh good the new guy has another question. There I said it for you.









I just checked something out. I have my vcore set to 1.425v in my BIOS at the moment... it was 1.45v but I just wanted to see if I could boot with it down a bit, and I can. So with it set at 1.425 in my BIOS, CPUZ is telling me from Windows that my vcore is 1.408v

I assume this is "vdroop"... and I wonder if a drop from 1.425 BIOS to 1.408 in Windows is a lot and if so what I can do about it. I read _something_ about a pencil mod, which just by the very sound of it alone I'm not up for though I should probably read about it I guess. Can I just crank my vcore up in the BIOS enough to make up for the droop, and will that work? If I set it to say 1.49v (-ish) BIOS side, that should give me 1.45v while in Windows I assume.

Think this has anything to do with my 3.0ghz wall?


vdroop explained here


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:


Originally Posted by *datter* 
EDIT: Oh, thanks very much for posting that. I appreciate it.

NP m8! We all here to learn and help each other









Now I go and learn the information in Paraleyes' link. ****


----------



## datter

I just read (most) of it... my brain hurts a bit now thank you very much. The main thing I got from that is that vdroop may be designed into a system on purpose for various reasons... such as giving headroom for power spikes when a system is coming off of heavy load. If that's the case I'm not sure I want to be pushing my vcore any higher. I mean, I'd like to but if I purposefully overclock out a vdroop that's in place to help cover my ass for power spikes then my ass won't in fact, be covered.

Does anyone run these things at 1.5v for daily use?

Starting to think the vcore may not be the source of my 3.0 wall, and as Tarabass has his other voltages set the same as mine are (with even a lower vcore, yet a higher OC) I think I might be trapped behind this wall for good. Could ram and mem timings have something to do with it? I'm running out of ideas.

EDIT: Oh wait, one more thought then I'm out of ideas. Any benefit to lowering the multiplier to 8 and raising the FSB?

All I have left are:

RAM or mem timing issue? (set to 857mhz and auto timings atm)
vcore issue? (all I can do is raise it to 1.5)
NB issue? (again, all I can do is raise it to 1.5)
multiplier to 8 with higher FSB? (NO clue if this is a good thing or not)
Failing any of that I'll start the process of getting my volts DOWN as low as I can and maintain stability at 3.0ghz then start sorting out any memory/GPU overclockage. Sure hope one of the above help the main overclock though.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *datter*


I just read (most) of it... my brain hurts a bit now thank you very much.


Mine did too.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *datter*


Does anyone run these things at 1.5v for daily use?


Yes all day every day. I do keep my system pretty cool though. You usually need to raise your voice to talk over my PC noise.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *datter*


Oh wait, one more thought then I'm out of ideas. Any benefit to lowering the multiplier to 8 and raising the FSB?


Try it. FSB @ 400 will give you 3.2Ghz if it works out.

*EDIT*: Keep in mind that every chip is different. Two people could each buy the exact same CPU/MB/RAM new off the shelf and easily have a 10% or more difference in OCing results. Otherwise we would be able to simply download the maximum settings chart for whatever system we owned. So when you consider how many chips there actually are in a complete working system, you can see why there are always such great discussions available to read on the subject.

You're stuck quite lower than most everyone else OCing the Q6600 on this board, so at this point, as cheap as memory is right now, I'd order up these and try it out.

Also, replace that stock dried up thermal junk on your NB & SB and make sure you do indeed have good airflow through your case.


----------



## Tarabass

I managed to set my FSB to 1440, and my vcore to 1.35. Below that the pc boots but hangs in Windows at the moment the drivers are started (read: immediately). I have to do some tests now to be sure 1.35 is my bottom vcore, but my case is that it is very strange that we have the same mobo, the same cpu, but very different possibilities.

I think that the memory has to be stable before you overclock your cpu. That again is not proven, but just my way of working. In that way you can isolate the problems and figure out where the bottleneck is. Right now I'm OC'ing my memory, but again and again I have to go to stock-settings 'cause it gets very unstable.

Try settings your memory to default settings. Not at auto, but at the stock settings. Also your stepping. Keep your NB at 1.4V, just like mine. Set your vcore at 1.5V, and try to boot with 9x1440. What does is do then?


----------



## novastar

has any one try'd or have the Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 working with the p5n32-e motherboard and how is it on overclocking with this board
thanks


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *novastar*


has any one try'd or have the Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 working with the p5n32-e motherboard and how is it on overclocking with this board
thanks


Asus has claimed that the mobo will run 45nm chips. But I think your 680i-chipset is the problem, 'cause the 45nm won't work if i'm right


----------



## Ruski1982

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tarabass*


Asus has claimed that the mobo will run 45nm chips. But I think your 680i-chipset is the problem, 'cause the 45nm won't work if i'm right










Please dont spread incorrect rumors









This board supports ALL Core 2 Duo's made to date. You just need to update the firmware if there are issues. This can be verified on the Asus site!

I am running a 45nm chip (E8400) and its working fine! Overclocked to 3.9Ghz easily.

*Note:* The biggest issue I find with this board is getting RAM that works well. I have a Patriot kit thats passes memtest86 and other stress testing just fine, but gives me BSOD every once in a while.

When I put in Corsair ram, the issue seems to disappear....go figure. Board also picky with memory dividers, but as long as you find that sweet spot, it will be just fine


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ruski1982*


Please dont spread incorrect rumors









This board supports ALL Core 2 Duo's made to date. You just need to update the firmware if there are issues. This can be verified on the Asus site!

I am running a 45nm chip (E8400) and its working fine! Overclocked to 3.9Ghz easily.

*Note:* The biggest issue I find with this board is getting RAM that works well. I have a Patriot kit thats passes memtest86 and other stress testing just fine, but gives me BSOD every once in a while.

When I put in Corsair ram, the issue seems to disappear....go figure. Board also picky with memory dividers, but as long as you find that sweet spot, it will be just fine










and does the Q9550 run with the chipset 680i? Always thought that the 680i has big problems running 45nm cpu's


----------



## datter

I haven't dealt with dividers yet, just been running the timings at auto with the FSB set to unlinked and my ram mhz at 857 (which I've read is a happy area for the OCZ Reaper 9200 to be for some reason). I turned on the EPP stuff in the BIOS last night for the hell of it and selected 0% OC then noticed it set my ram at 1066 or so. On rebooting it wouldn't load windows however, then back in the BIOS it actually froze up and wouldn't reboot. I had to pull the CMOS battery again to clear it. I'll stick with manual stuff from now on, though I haven't immersed myself with knowledge about ram and ram timings yet. Stock settings on the box are 5-5-5-18 at 1150mhz, but somehow I don't imagine that's happening. Might just stick with auto/857mhz unless I find there's a pressing reason to improve that.

I hope to have some time tonight for testing my last few options for getting past 3.0ghz (as mentioned above)... unless the whiskey gets me first mind you, which it might.


----------



## Ruski1982

Quote:



Originally Posted by *datter*


ok, mem timings and all that will be left to auto for now.







Since I can't get past the 2.7/3.0 range at all I'm thinking I'll go ahead with the BIOS update to 1701 and see if that gets me anywhere.


Paraleys has some good advice. The ONLY thing i would say different is:

*DON'T LEAVE RAM SETTINGS ON AUTO.* Go into the Bios and set everything manually to what the stock values should be. This applies to both Mem Voltage and timings.

I have gone through 3+ different RAM kits on this board and NOT a single one was running @ stock values if I left things on auto. In fact, my Patriot (EPP) 2x2GB 4-4-4-12 2T (2.2v) kit, wouldn't even POST on auto settings.

However, when I took 1 stick out, set all timings/voltage manually and booted back up with both sticks, it worked just fine. On auto, with 1 stick...it was undervolting the ram @ 1.85v and some weird ass timings.

Once all set manually (@ Stock), you can play with your FSB/vCore till you find the limits. Further to Paraleys point, this board seems to have these holes where it wont boot (i.e. I couldnt boot @ 3.75Ghz, but got it 24/7 stable @ 3.89Ghz and even 4.13Ghz....lol so go figure).

Anyway good luck, i will be playing with my settings a bit more this weekend...couldnt resist and grabbed a few new parts:

i) Razer Lycosa (Mirror Edition)
ii) EVGA E-GEFORCE GTX 260 Core 216 55NM
iii) Corsair XMS2 Dominator TWIN2X4096-8500C5D


----------



## Ruski1982

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tarabass*


and does the Q9550 run with the chipset 680i? Always thought that the 680i has big problems running 45nm cpu's










Its true, the 680i has had issues in the past and I think only around Oct. 08 did Asus finally release a BIOS update that started to support 45nm processors.

Since then, it hasn't been a issue. My E8400 (45nm) runs perfectly.....just ironing RAM related issue for the most part.....that's my biggest issue.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Is there a Bios update for the Q9550? I had a look for my* Plus *and couldn't find anything!


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


Is there a Bios update for the Q9550? I had a look for my* Plus *and couldn't find anything!


Wrong topic m8


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tarabass*


Wrong topic m8











Quote:



Originally Posted by *novastar*


has any one try'd or have the Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 working with the p5n32-e motherboard and how is it on overclocking with this board
thanks



Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


Is there a Bios update for the Q9550? I had a look for my* Plus *and couldn't find anything!


Looks right to me


----------



## Ruski1982

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


Is there a Bios update for the Q9550? I had a look for my* Plus *and couldn't find anything!


As far as i recall, your board (P5N32-E SLI Plus) is actually a different chipset:

*P5N32-E SLI ---> 680i nForce chipset

P5N32-E SLI Plus ---> 650i nForce chipset*

*CPU Support*
*P5N32-E SLI (680i) *- http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...roduct=1&os=25

*P5N32-E SLI Plus (650i)* - http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...roduct=1&os=25


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ruski1982* 
As far as i recall, your board (P5N32-E SLI Plus) is actually a different chipset:

*P5N32-E SLI ---> 680i nForce chipset

P5N32-E SLI Plus ---> 650i nForce chipset*

*CPU Support*

*P5N32-E SLI (680i)* - http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...roduct=1&os=25

*P5N32-E SLI Plus (650i)* - http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...roduct=1&os=25

That's why i did the *Plus* in Bold








As for being *650i*, it isn't as clean cut as that! As it still has *2 x 16 pci-e* and does indeed question the whole 650/680 chipset thing








I have read walls of posts on different forums about my board, one here http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=131452&page=3
And that's where i found out they call it *The Frankenstein Board*


----------



## Ruski1982

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5* 
That's why i did the *Plus* in Bold








As for being *650i*, it isn't as clean cut as that! As it still has *2 x 16 pci-e* and does indeed question the whole 650/680 chipset thing








I have read walls of posts on different forums about my board, one here http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=131452&page=3
And that's where i found out they call it *The Frankenstein Board*









Sounds like a scam lol....I knew my P5N32-E was just a Striker Extreme in disguise, but this is some kind of a wierd 3-way lie









lol...anyway, I am going to run this damn board into the ground and then just buy something non-Asus lol


----------



## ACHILEE5

Same as mate


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


Looks right to me










Just kidding, this is the non-plus topic lol









But well, can't help you out anyway..


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tarabass*


Just kidding, this is the non-plus topic lol









But well, can't help you out anyway..


Then i'll be on my way then








See ya


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ruski1982* 
Paraleys has some good advice. The ONLY thing i would say different is:

*DON'T LEAVE RAM SETTINGS ON AUTO.* Go into the Bios and set everything manually to what the stock values should be. This applies to both Mem Voltage and timings.

Thanks for correcting me there. I went in my BIOS and looked. Yes, I also set everything manually; timings, voltage and frequency to manufacturer listed values. I do that without thinking about it when I buy new memory, so I guess in my mind that means "auto"









Datter- I'll say again though, pick up some Corsair Dominator PC2 8500. They're only $30 for 2G at the egg. They run between 1066 and 1100ish. I just keep mine at 1066 and never have issues. You'll see a huge difference from 857. Plus you may get better results in other areas afterward.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5* 
Is there a Bios update for the Q9550? I had a look for my *Plus* and couldn't find anything!

Yes, the BIOS you want is located here. Select your OS and download the BIOS and the Update utility.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tarabass* 
Asus has claimed that the mobo will run 45nm chips. But I think your 680i-chipset is the problem, 'cause the 45nm won't work if i'm right

















Gingivitis!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *novastar* 
has any one try'd or have the Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 working with the p5n32-e motherboard and how is it on overclocking with this board
thanks

Yes, it has been discussed multiple times already in this thread. I suggest you go change your forum settings to display 40 posts per page and then go through using "Ctrl+f" entering Q9550 on each page until you find some results. You will get your answers much quicker this way.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ruski1982* 
As far as i recall, your board (P5N32-E SLI Plus) is actually a different chipset:

*P5N32-E SLI ---> 680i nForce chipset

P5N32-E SLI Plus ---> 650i nForce chipset*

*CPU Support*
*P5N32-E SLI (680i)* - http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...roduct=1&os=25

*P5N32-E SLI Plus (650i)* - http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...roduct=1&os=25

Yes, they are different chipsets. The Plus has the 570 SB, but they overclock and perform nearly identically. In fact there are areas where the 650i outperforms it's big brother. The only major differences are a few less PCI-E lanes and 6 channel audio. I also have the 650i Plus version, but I have yet to find one setting in my BIOS that conflicts with one on the 680i board as far as overclocking goes.

Techspot.com has a very extensive review explaining the differences between the two chipsets showing detailed performance testing results. Read the review here.


----------



## datter

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Paraleyes* 
Thanks for correcting me there. I went in my BIOS and looked. Yes, I also set everything manually; timings, voltage and frequency to manufacturer listed values. I do that without thinking about it when I buy new memory, so I guess in my mind that means "auto"









Datter- I'll say again though, pick up some Corsair Dominator PC2 8500. They're only $30 for 2G at the egg. They run between 1066 and 1100ish. I just keep mine at 1066 and never have issues. You'll see a huge difference from 857. Plus you may get better results in other areas afterward.

hmmm ok, will set my timings (listed as 5-5-5-18 on OCZ's site) instead of leaving them on auto. I already have my mem volts at 2.1 as per specs. Not sure about the rest of the mem settings aside from the 5-5-5-18 business, though they do have further numbers listed at OCZ. Should I plug 'em all in or just those four and leave the rest on auto?

With timings on auto I did try entering 1150mhz for my ram mhz but it did bad things. Crashed on loading Windows once, then froze up in the bios and failed to boot after that. Had to pull the cmos battery again to bring it back to life. My mem is rated at 1150 but I guess that doesn't mean it will necessarily run at that speed? I've read reviews about my ram with people saying they couldn't get it quite that high. I'm not a benchmarker, so how much differences in real world application (HD video editing, photoshop, 3dsmax, Farcry2, Crysis etc etc) will if I can get it from 857 to 1150?


----------



## Paraleyes

*Datter*- I doubt you'll hit 1150 unless you put it in a MB supporting higher frequencies, but like I said before, every system is different; every chip, every motherboard or combination of different chips and the memory you put in it, all create different scenarios. With that said, who knows what those "auto" settings actually were set at? At least now you can be sure they are at the factory recommended settings.

Oh, and you'll notice a definite performance gain from 857 to 1150. I've been reading on your memory mainly for something to do. Try 1142MHz once. Also, if I OC my memory and have a system crash, I can usually just take out the memory and reboot with just one stick. Then shutdown, reinstall the rest and reboot. That way you don't have to deal with the battery and everything else in the way of it.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Paraleyes* 
Yes, the BIOS you want is located here. Techspot.com has a very extensive review explaining the differences between the two chipsets showing detailed performance testing results. Read the review here.

That isn't our board








As i said, it's the Frankenstein Board









Quote:

Then there is the more affordable 650i SLI chipset, supporting just *18 PCI Express lanes*, it sounds quite poor in comparison, yet this seems to be enough to power dual GeForce 8800 GTX cards. The 650i SLI also misses out on official *1333MHz FSB support*, 1200MHz EPP memory support, four *instead of six* SATA 3 Gb/s ports, *and the third PCIe expansion slot* for a physics card (right?). Perhaps of lesser importance, the *650i SLI supports a single Gigabit LAN connection* versus 680i's dual Gigabit.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


That isn't our board








As i said, it's the Frankenstein Board










Hmmm







It certainly was when I looked it up. Now the link won't work at all for me. Try this one. Select "motherboard" then "socket 775" then "P5N32-E SLI Plus" and you'll be able to download the new bios and update utility there allowing you to run your Q9550

YES, I realize this thread is not about the "Plus" version. That link is for ACHIL335

Quote:



Then there is the more affordable 650i SLI chipset, supporting just 18 PCI Express lanes, it sounds quite poor in comparison, yet this seems to be enough to power dual GeForce 8800 GTX cards. The 650i SLI also misses out on official 1333MHz FSB support, 1200MHz EPP memory support, four instead of six SATA 3 Gb/s ports, and the third PCIe expansion slot for a physics card (right?). Perhaps of lesser importance, the 650i SLI supports a single Gigabit LAN connection versus 680i's dual Gigabit.


That is an out-dated quote from that review. Since then new BIOS revisions have fixed the FSB limitations. I'm running 1640MHz FSB right now on my 650i.

Also, the ASUS version of our 650i board does have dual gigabit LAN, the 6 Sata ports and the 3rd PCI-E slot for the physics cards that never even got devoloped.

EDIT: What does Frankenstein come from?


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:


Originally Posted by *datter* 
hmmm ok, will set my timings (listed as 5-5-5-18 on OCZ's site) instead of leaving them on auto. I already have my mem volts at 2.1 as per specs. Not sure about the rest of the mem settings aside from the 5-5-5-18 business, though they do have further numbers listed at OCZ. Should I plug 'em all in or just those four and leave the rest on auto?

With timings on auto I did try entering 1150mhz for my ram mhz but it did bad things. Crashed on loading Windows once, then froze up in the bios and failed to boot after that. Had to pull the cmos battery again to bring it back to life. My mem is rated at 1150 but I guess that doesn't mean it will necessarily run at that speed? I've read reviews about my ram with people saying they couldn't get it quite that high. I'm not a benchmarker, so how much differences in real world application (HD video editing, photoshop, 3dsmax, Farcry2, Crysis etc etc) will if I can get it from 857 to 1150?

What I don't get is that you're doing two things at the time. First you want to OC your cpu, to isolate any problems you where going to put memory settings at stock. Ones you get to your memory settings, you are concentrate on that and want to OC that. It's a normal effect, and human to, and sometimes somebody have to say that to you lol..

That's not a problem, but for sure not my way of working. Now I don't say only my way of work will work, but doing two things at the time isn't helpful. Maybe you should go back to your first initial thing to do. Set memory on stock, and OC'ing your CPU. After that you can try OC'ing your memory, but first priority should be OC your CPU


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Paraleyes*


What does Frankenstein come from?


I got that nick name for the board from http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=131452&page=3
At the moment i am useing *Bios 1201* on my *Plus* which is the latest








The settings my board likes are;
400fsb with my 9.5 multi giving me 3.8GHz 
400 DRam makeing Ram:FSB Ratio 1:1








*You say you're running at 1640, 3.895MHz Right?
And are you at 410 with the ram?*
I have tryed 1688 rated FSB giveing me 4.009GHz but it wasn't happy, so i think i will try 1066 ram in there so i can keep FSB:RAN at 1:1 and see what happens








The other thing is, sometime this week i'm going to Novertech and blowing Â£500 on my rig! So it's the *Q9650 or a GTX285ssc *








And i think it will be the GFX card i go for, and leave the Quad for a while


----------



## datter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tarabass*


What I don't get is that you're doing two things at the time. First you want to OC your cpu, to isolate any problems you where going to put memory settings at stock. Ones you get to your memory settings, you are concentrate on that and want to OC that. It's a normal effect, and human to, and sometimes somebody have to say that to you lol..

That's not a problem, but for sure not my way of working. Now I don't say only my way of work will work, but doing two things at the time isn't helpful. Maybe you should go back to your first initial thing to do. Set memory on stock, and OC'ing your CPU. After that you can try OC'ing your memory, but first priority should be OC your CPU










I totally agree with that, but as I've about run out of options as to why this 3.0ghz wall exists I was starting to look at my memory as a possible cause. No clue how that might factor in mind you, but I'm most definitely stuck at 3.0.

I got away from my OC efforts in the last few days, but should get back to it again tonight or tomorrow. I'm thinking I'll leave my mem at 857mhz since it seems to like that, and the timings set to factory spec (5-5-5-18) then see about lowering my multiplier to 8 and raising the FSB to get me 3.0ghz again. If that works out I'll see if I can break this 3.0 wall that way. If not I guess I'll reside at 3.0 and then focus on getting my memory running as fast as it wants to... then maybe delve into my dual 8800GT's.

More news as it happens.


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *datter*


I totally agree with that, but as I've about run out of options as to why this 3.0ghz wall exists I was starting to look at my memory as a possible cause. No clue how that might factor in mind you, but I'm most definitely stuck at 3.0.

I got away from my OC efforts in the last few days, but should get back to it again tonight or tomorrow. I'm thinking I'll leave my mem at 857mhz since it seems to like that, and the timings set to factory spec (5-5-5-18) then see about lowering my multiplier to 8 and raising the FSB to get me 3.0ghz again. If that works out I'll see if I can break this 3.0 wall that way. If not I guess I'll reside at 3.0 and then focus on getting my memory running as fast as it wants to... then maybe delve into my dual 8800GT's.

More news as it happens.


That was what you were doing. Put memory in stock-settings, nb and sb as in first post of this thread and then trying to OC your CPU. Suddenly you come with questions about memory (NP at all) and your are focused on that. In that way i'm not satisfied about all the options you could and should try out m8.

Never the less, i'm saying this to help you out. Not to attack you in a way. Trust me, we all had the frustration ones. Then everything is blurry


----------



## datter

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tarabass* 
That was what you were doing. Put memory in stock-settings, nb and sb as in first post of this thread and then trying to OC your CPU. Suddenly you come with questions about memory (NP at all) and your are focused on that. In that way i'm not satisfied about all the options you could and should try out m8.

Never the less, i'm saying this to help you out. Not to attack you in a way. Trust me, we all had the frustration ones. Then everything is blurry









yeah, well I've been getting a bit frustrated with things and in looking for answers initially as to why I'm stuck at 3.0 ended up looking into mem timings and winded up focused on that. Tonight I'm going to put those timings in, then get back to the real heart of the matter.

I'm hoping an 8x multi and higher FSB might prove something, but we'll see. I'll try that and a few other final things and if I can't get anywhere with that stuff _then_ I'll declare myself happy at 3.0 and get into memory and vid card stuff.

You're right, no time to lose focus here.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ACHILEE5*


I got that nick name for the board from http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=131452&page=3
At the moment i am useing *Bios 1201* on my *Plus* which is the latest








The settings my board likes are;
400fsb with my 9.5 multi giving me 3.8GHz 
400 DRam makeing Ram:FSB Ratio 1:1








*You say you're running at 1640, 3.895MHz Right?
And are you at 410 with the ram?*
I have tryed 1688 rated FSB giveing me 4.009GHz but it wasn't happy, so i think i will try 1066 ram in there so i can keep FSB:RAN at 1:1 and see what happens








The other thing is, sometime this week i'm going to Novertech and blowing Â£500 on my rig! So it's the *Q9650 or a GTX285ssc *








And i think it will be the GFX card i go for, and leave the Quad for a while










No, my memory is unlinked at 1066, but I have been able to run it over 1100. I keep it at 1066 though and never have problems. Yes, my CPU is just short of 3.9GHz. I tried 1644 FSB to get me past 3.9, but it would lock up while gaming now and then.

Dude, your gains would be huge with a new VGA opposed to a quadcore CPU.

Anyone want to take a poll on when Datter will buy some new memory and solve his problems?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Paraleyes*


No, my memory is unlinked at 1066, but I have been able to run it over 1100. I keep it at 1066 though and never have problems. Yes, my CPU is just short of 3.9GHz. I tried 1644 FSB to get me past 3.9, but it would lock up while gaming now and then.

Dude, your gains would be huge with a new VGA opposed to a quadcore CPU.


I planed on getting the GTX285 the whole time, but then i saw the Q9650 and it got me thinking








But i will go with plan "A"








And maybe some better Ram


----------



## datter

ok, a good update this time.

I lowered my multi from 9x to 8x and tried an FSB of 1700 to give me 3.4ghz. RAM is still at 857mhz, and timings set to 5-5-5-18. I booted into Windows ok to my amazement and thought all was well. I almost crapped myself when I saw XP reporting the CPU at 3.8ghz though but all the other apps correctly showed it at 3.4ghz.

Volts to get here as follows:

vcore : 1.5v in BIOS (1.46v reported in HWmonitor)
mem : 2.1v (factory spec)
1.2v HTT : 1.3v
NB : 1.5v
SB : 1.5v
CPU VTT : 1.55v

CPU temps at idle were in the mid 30's on average, and NB/SB temps were 70c and 65c respectively. My problem came when trying it under load. As SOON as I initiated Prime95 the system froze.

I then backed the FSB down to 1650 with the same voltages and things seem more stable. Right now with 1650 8x I'm at 3.3ghz. Temps at idle are about still mid 30's, NB and SB are 72/67. Under load my CPU temps go up to around 50c or so.

I wanted 3.4 and I have 3.3 (will stability test tonight) so I'm ok here. I figure I'll try dropping my NB or SB volts a bit and see how low I can get them before things start freezing up on me. I assume running the voltages listed above for any length of time is a bad thing? Temps aren't too bad though I suppose... CPU anyway. NB/SB I think are high. Are they?


----------



## Tarabass

Congrats m8. Thinks are working out for you know!







Happy to hear..

But what if you put your multifier @ 9, is that working also? And try putting your NB at 1.4V, that should work. Other voltages are just good. I don't think the voltages are bad, mine are just the same. Except for the NB, mine is 1.4V. Maybe somebody can feedback use about that, would love to know that too. All that time of hard work are now paying you back, doing one thing at the time lol


----------



## datter

Yes, I have to thank you for your post above, I really was about to give up. When I read that I thought I'd best get focused on the main OC here and exhaust all my possibilities.









What I'm thinking at this point, is that I have an FSB "hole" so 9x whatever it was to get me to 3.4 wasn't happening on my mobo but by going to 8x a higher FSB pushed my numbers out beyond the hole. I've read about this happening to others, apparently it's not that uncommon. I've tried combinations of FSB and 9x multi of all sorts and didn't get anywhere including trying to go to 3.4, 3.6 and even 3.8. It's odd because my FSB at 1650 x8 takes me to 3.3, yet 1700 x9 would have taken me to 3.8 but that wouldn't pass post last time I tried it. I may give it another shot though (170 9x) just to verify though as there are so many numbers in my head I may be remembering incorrectly.

Still, 1700 x8 wasn't stable as said above. As soon as I ran Prime95 it froze and wasn't stable in Windows either... freezing from time to time. Maybe _that_ is a function of memory settings?

What I think I'll do next is try 1700 x9 just to verify no POST, then revert back to 1650 x8 for 3.3ghz. From there I'll lower my NB down to 1.4 and see if it likes that, and maybe see if I can get my vcore down slightly and remain stable. Given that it drops to 1.46 in Windows though, I doubt the vcore can move much from where it is.

After all that I'll finally move to seeing if I can get my memory to run at anything above 857mhz, THEN wind it up by looking at bumping my dual 8800GT's up a bit then call it done.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tarabass*


Congrats m8. Thinks are working out for you know!







Happy to hear..

But what if you put your multifier @ 9, is that working also? And try putting your NB at 1.4V, that should work. Other voltages are just good. I don't think the voltages are bad, mine are just the same. Except for the NB, mine is 1.4V. Maybe somebody can feedback use about that, would love to know that too. All that time of hard work are now paying you back, doing one thing at the time lol


----------



## AkiraX123

You guys still hanging out around this thread? My P5N32-E is on the return..this guy at work gave me a q6700 he pulled from a watercooled system that failed. I rma'ed it to Intel, and got back a shiny new one







I've since installed it and stressed it to let the AS5 cure a bit.

Now I know the quads don't overclock well with this thing. In fact I tried to push 3 last night and I got a black screen, had to reset cmos. I was running 1205, then 1503, and now 1701, although I actually didn't mind 1503 when I was running my e6750 @ 3.4.

What settings have you found that work with q6600? Anyone have a q6700?

stock q6700 voltages according to hardware monitor in bios:
1.28 - vcore
1.88 - mem
1.24 - 1.2ht
1.24 - nb
1.52 - sb
1.24 - vtt

thing has a better vcore than my e6570, I want to take advantage of it!


----------



## AkiraX123

Oh I almost forgot - under load at STOCK speed and vcore I am reaching temps of 56C with a Zalman 9700. Is this around what you guys are seeing?


----------



## datter

On my q6600 at 3.3ghz I'm seeing temps in the low 50's under load if that's any help.


----------



## Tarabass

My settings with my Q6600 are:

*System clock:*
100 / 100 / 100 / auto

*FSB & Memory config:*
unlinked / 1440 / 800 <- 1440 == 3,24Ghz

*About voltage:*
Vcore 1,35000
Memory 1,900 <- due to lack of time still have to OC it
1.2V HT 1,30
NB 1,40
SB 1,50
CPU VTT 1,55
DDRII auto / auto / auto

nvidia GPU ex = enabled <- don't know if that's good lol

*Temps:*
CPU 32
M/B 31

Hopes this helps you out


----------



## AkiraX123

Thanks for the quick responses!

You guys think 56C is too high for stock? Should I try to reseat my heatsink? I can't wait to try out your settings when I get home. I know that the board won't post @ 1200FSB 1200/4 = 300 * 10multi = 3.00GHz thats what I tried last night.

So I figure Ill try 1400 - 1500 * 9multi = somewhere around 3.2 hopefully.


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AkiraX123*


Thanks for the quick responses!

You guys think 56C is too high for stock? Should I try to reseat my heatsink? I can't wait to try out your settings when I get home. I know that the board won't post @ 1200FSB 1200/4 = 300 * 10multi = 3.00GHz thats what I tried last night.

So I figure Ill try 1400 - 1500 * 9multi = somewhere around 3.2 hopefully.


I wouldn't except it! But maybe I can't judge, 'cause of my HAF 932 case and 'just' a 8800gtx eXTreme. But for now my CPU is idle (almost, just internet) 32 decrease. Stressed it will be around 40 decrease. And that with the same cooler as yours. So yes, reseat it with some good pasta. And imo you should let the air out at the rear, rarely enough I see a lot of pics around here with the cooler point up, which means that all the warm air from your gr. card goes up without enough air to such from.

But that's why I like bigtowers a lot. There is so much place in it, and for the HAF 932 it comes with some very big fans in front, top, sidepanel and rear. For airflow you should try to get some underpresure, simply that means more air in than out. Another positive thing about it is that it will keep dust out, as far as possible. At the other way, with the same case and cooler don't expect much from it and it's not a big deal I guess









But maybe some other guys can tell more about air and temps. I'm just a amateur doing my thing lol


----------



## AkiraX123

Yeah I've got it pointed to the rear and another 120mm is right behind it...I definitely don't think it should be working that hard. I put the as5 on just like their installation instructions..hmm oh well. Maybe I can get off early today an go check it out


----------



## datter

Here's a long but worthwhile article on thermal paste application, in case you end up reseating your cooler.

As for air flow, I have my Vendetta 2 pointed rearwards with a 120mm blowing through it and another built into the case blowing out right behind it, as well as another 120mm blowing out right above it. I have yet another 120mm mounted in front blowing in to maintain an airflow. As I've heard it said elsewhere (and as Paraleyes mentioned many posts back) you need airflow IN as well as out. Ever try drinking from a juice box with just the straw stuck into it? the box squeezes in and it gets hard to suck since there's no inlet. As soon as you poke a little hole in the top though, you can drink your juice much easier. Having a good source of air in is like adding the little hole to your juice box.

Anyway, give this *Thermal Paste Application* article a read if you're going to revisit that end of things.

Now I need to go find me some juice.


----------



## AkiraX123

hey datter - 
what voltages are you using for 3.3 and fsb speed?


----------



## datter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AkiraX123*


hey datter - 
what voltages are you using for 3.3 and fsb speed?


This was from my last update many posts back in this thread:

Quote:



I lowered my multi from 9x to 8x and tried an FSB of 1700 to give me 3.4ghz. RAM is still at 857mhz, and timings set to 5-5-5-18. I booted into Windows ok to my amazement and thought all was well. I almost crapped myself when I saw XP reporting the CPU at 3.8ghz though but all the other apps correctly showed it at 3.4ghz.

Volts to get here as follows:

vcore : 1.5v in BIOS (1.46v reported in HWmonitor)
mem : 2.1v (factory spec)
1.2v HTT : 1.3v
NB : 1.5v
SB : 1.5v
CPU VTT : 1.55v

CPU temps at idle were in the mid 30's on average, and NB/SB temps were 70c and 65c respectively. My problem came when trying it under load. As SOON as I initiated Prime95 the system froze.

I then backed the FSB down to 1650 with the same voltages and things seem more stable. Right now with 1650 8x I'm at 3.3ghz. Temps at idle are about still mid 30's, NB and SB are 72/67. Under load my CPU temps go up to around 50c or so.


It seems 9x multi was putting me in an FSB hole, and dropping to 8x allowed me a higher FSB which got me out of it. To my understanding anyway. At this point my volts are as high as I would like them, and I can't seem to get my FSB up any higher and remain stable so I'm about stuck here but 3.3 is an ok place to be stuck at in my book. Going to work on getting those volts down as low as possible while maintaining stability, but we'll see.


----------



## AkiraX123

thanks man, appreciate it


----------



## datter

np, happy to help out a bit considering how helpful everyone else has been here. Let us know how things go.


----------



## AkiraX123

Ok, so I'm stress testing. I re applied AS5 and the heatsink when I got home. Highest I've seen so far is 49C, but I'm not quite to the second pass on blend (where we all know things get tough). Even if temps only end up being 2-3C cooler I would like that much better than 56C stock!

The first time I applied the AS5, I did so just as their guide mentions. I think its probably too much but this second time I've tried two smaller lines parallel to each other going the same direction as the cores.. wish I had taken a pic. I guess we'll see in a couple minutes here if the temps are down...


----------



## AkiraX123

! Temps are down! Only by an average of 2C though
before after
56 54
57 55
56 54
54 52

Hopefully its not just ambient temps...and this round of AS5 hasn't even had a proper chance to cure!

Thanks Datter, I used the two line suggestion that was in the thermal compound guide you suggested.

On to 3GHz..


----------



## datter

np. Be sure to give your system some cool down time while the AS5 cures... I think the proper way to do it according to the AS people is to leave your rig off overnight now and then within the first 200hours of use after the paste application. This will allow the paste to heat up under use and cool down when it's off so it can cure. Apparently by the time it's completely cured you can see temps down 5 degrees or from what they were when it was first applied.


----------



## AkiraX123

Yeah I left her shut down last night to help cure. I keep thinking about whether I used too much TIM or not though..trying to decide if I want to try and reapply it again ( my OCD is kickin' in ). I guess it depends on how good temps are today


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AkiraX123* 
Yeah I left her shut down last night to help cure. I keep thinking about whether I used too much TIM or not though..trying to decide if I want to try and reapply it again ( my OCD is kickin' in ). I guess it depends on how good temps are today










And when are we going to kick that baby's ass?









Nice, does temps but if you can't get it to 3.0Ghz++ why all the hassle


----------



## AkiraX123

ha ha true! I have 5 minutes to decide if I want to lug it in to work with me. I work at a pc shop nearby ( best job ever? ) so it wouldn't be too much effort....but it weighs like 40 lbs. and I only work till 1 today. I think what I'll do is seat some processors at work and see what the best way of doing this will be


----------



## AkiraX123

ok. 3rd reseat today. Even changed up some of the cables hoping to "improve" airflow..its pretty packed in there through. Temps are as good as they were the first time, peaking at 57C. I guess thats as good as I'm going to get.

Maybe once the as5 cures i'll get 2-3C more...

Do you guys think I should wait for the as5 to cure before I overclock it? I can't see why the extra heat would hurt..

I'm keeping a pretty good table of all my temps, I'll let you guys know if as5 really does drop in temps after "cures"


----------



## datter

I overclocked mine about 20 minutes after applying AS5 and installing my cooler, though have been sure to shut it down at night every night since to let the curing happen. Can't say if this was wise or not, but you're talking to the guy who built a homemade southbridge cooler out of a hack-sawed heatsink, a 30mm fan and a few _woodscrews_. To the tune of shaving 23c off the southbridge temp I might add.









My temperatures goal before starting was to not ever have things get past 65c (and the lower the better of course) so I think you'd be ok at 57c under load.

As it happens, I rarely run oc'd anyway as since I've found the "OC Profiles" section in my BIOS I've just saved my 3.3ghz overclock into slot 1. When I want to play a game, do some video editing or anything with 3dsmax I reboot into 3.3ghz. When I'm done and the system is just idling (or when the kids are on it), I reboot to the default stock settings of 2.4ghz. Again, unsure how wise this is but it strikes me that for most of the time the system will sit at stock settings, and only get pushed via the overclock when I actually need it. The rebooting is mildly annoying, but it's quick enough that it doesn't bother me much.

I may get to the point of leaving it at 3.3 all the time, or possibly look into the BIOS cpu throttling to have it automatically step things back on it's own when idling but for now I'm doing it this way.


----------



## pifive

How much memory you have Datter?


----------



## datter

2gb OCZ DDR2 PC2-9200 (1150mhz) Reaper HPC Edition, which I can't get running at anything over 857mhz in the BIOS for some reason.


----------



## Tarabass

Is there any news. Blown up cpu's or some things like that


----------



## datter

I've been wondering that myself.


----------



## AkiraX123

ha ha no nothing like that. Played with some settings last night, and found some interesting things.

trying to remember these numbers off the top of my head..I think it was
vcore 1.31
mem 1.9 
nb 1.3
sb 1.5 stock
vtt 1.30

this is only a little above stock vcore. The machine won't even post from FSB 1066-1200, posts at 1333, then there's another hole from like 1400-1500...posted fine at FSB 1600 (kicked the multiplier down by 2X just in case..)

Very odd though - when I did get the machine to post, it still didn't boot to windows - I got a bunch of odd stuff on the screen I haven't seen before, looked like some kind of exception was processed.

Anyone seen this screen before? Its immediately after post, I'm actually thinking it might be having trouble initializing the raid array because the NV raid bios never came up like it usually does...


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AkiraX123*


ha ha no nothing like that. Played with some settings last night, and found some interesting things.

trying to remember these numbers off the top of my head..I think it was
vcore 1.31
mem 1.9 
nb 1.3
sb 1.5 stock
vtt 1.30

this is only a little above stock vcore. The machine won't even post from FSB 1066-1200, posts at 1333, then there's another hole from like 1400-1500...posted fine at FSB 1600 (kicked the multiplier down by 2X just in case..)

Very odd though - when I did get the machine to post, it still didn't boot to windows - I got a bunch of odd stuff on the screen I haven't seen before, looked like some kind of exception was processed.

Anyone seen this screen before? Its immediately after post, I'm actually thinking it might be having trouble initializing the raid array because the NV raid bios never came up like it usually does...


And what if you put you rvcore way higher. Something like 1.5v or so?


----------



## datter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tarabass*


And what if you put you rvcore way higher. Something like 1.5v or so?


I think that would be a good idea. I have yet to spend any time getting my volts down (they're all rather high) but I finally decided to crank them all up as high as was safe then do the best OC I could at those volts until unstable. Finally I'll bring my volts down as far as I can while testing stability. To me this makes more sense than working upward as I know for a fact I don't want to raise my volts anymore, so any FSB fiddling I do will get me my maximum OC for this set up and I can lower the volts as possible after that. Just need to get around to actually DOING this last bit.


----------



## AkiraX123

Quote:



Originally Posted by *datter*


I think that would be a good idea. I have yet to spend any time getting my volts down (they're all rather high) but I finally decided to crank them all up as high as was safe then do the best OC I could at those volts until unstable. Finally I'll bring my volts down as far as I can while testing stability. To me this makes more sense than working upward as I know for a fact I don't want to raise my volts anymore, so any FSB fiddling I do will get me my maximum OC for this set up and I can lower the volts as possible after that. Just need to get around to actually DOING this last bit.










good call. Working backwards like I am trying to will probably just waste time. I'll try 1.45 vcore and up my nb when I get home. I don't think it will need 1.5 to reach 3.6ghz..but I guess you never know.


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AkiraX123*


good call. Working backwards like I am trying to will probably just waste time. I'll try 1.45 vcore and up my nb when I get home. I don't think it will need 1.5 to reach 3.6ghz..but I guess you never know.


Imo that's the way to fix the job. Maybe you should find out what your save (intel-specs) volt-ranges are and put them up. Then try to OC and get them lower while doing some stability-tests.

But when are you going to OC that baby of you :swearing:


----------



## AkiraX123

what are you guys getting for a 3dmark score?

with the q6700, p5n32-e and a 9800gtx+ i've finally broke 14k. Once I OC this bad boy I hope to be sitting at 15k









The 7th HP DV6000 series notebook I've seen thats been just out of the warranty period has died today. I'm thinking this must be the worst notebook line I've ever seen...


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *datter*


I overclocked mine about 20 minutes after applying AS5 and installing my cooler, though have been sure to shut it down at night every night since to let the curing happen. Can't say if this was wise or not, but you're talking to the guy who built a homemade southbridge cooler out of a hack-sawed heatsink, a 30mm fan and a few _woodscrews_. To the tune of shaving 23c off the southbridge temp I might add.









My temperatures goal before starting was to not ever have things get past 65c (and the lower the better of course) so I think you'd be ok at 57c under load.

As it happens, I rarely run oc'd anyway as since I've found the "OC Profiles" section in my BIOS I've just saved my 3.3ghz overclock into slot 1. When I want to play a game, do some video editing or anything with 3dsmax I reboot into 3.3ghz. When I'm done and the system is just idling (or when the kids are on it), I reboot to the default stock settings of 2.4ghz. Again, unsure how wise this is but it strikes me that for most of the time the system will sit at stock settings, and only get pushed via the overclock when I actually need it. The rebooting is mildly annoying, but it's quick enough that it doesn't bother me much.

I may get to the point of leaving it at 3.3 all the time, or possibly look into the BIOS cpu throttling to have it automatically step things back on it's own when idling but for now I'm doing it this way.


Woah! You take the time to do this?! Very cool. Your PC is green! -In other words, you're conserving energy. I don't have the patience to do that. I leave mine running full out with maxed voltages sucking up the amps! Of course, I didn't have to use my heaters other than maybe a handful of times this past winter as the eight PCs(including the 2 TiVo) heat my 2 bedroom apartment quite well. haha

Your thermal paste requires a burn in period of as much as 200hrs. Leave the PC running initially to allow this to happen.


----------



## AkiraX123

this day is taking way too long I just want to go home and overclock!


----------



## AkiraX123

hey datter,

what you runnin' that thing at to get 3.4? 375-380*9? or 425*8? I think you may have mentioned it but I can't seem to find it on this thread.


----------



## datter

412x8... which is 1650x8 in my BIOS because of the "quad pumped" number thing. That gets me 3.3. Going to 1700x8 would get me 3.4 but for some reason it's not stable, and as I won't raise my volts anymore I think I'm at my limit although I COULD try something x8 to get me to 3.6 or even 3.8 just to see. I might be at another FSB hole or something come to think about it.


----------



## AkiraX123

Quote:



Originally Posted by *datter*


412x8... which is 1650x8 in my BIOS because of the "quad pumped" number thing. That gets me 3.3. Going to 1700x8 would get me 3.4 but for some reason it's not stable, and as I won't raise my volts anymore I think I'm at my limit although I COULD try something x8 to get me to 3.6 or even 3.8 just to see. I might be at another FSB hole or something come to think about it.


Our bios is the same







I just always divide by four out of habit..

I think you are right though. I messed with mine a little last night, got it to post at 1600fsb but 1700 was also a no go. It looks as though this board can make somewhere between 400-425 fsb and no more with the quads. Anyone else care to chime in?

Not bad though, thats still a little better than robilar stated in the guide (I think he said his best was 387fsb with a quad?)


----------



## datter

Yeah, anything in the 3.3 range is pretty good though I am considering trying 8x whatever to get me to 3.6 or 3.8 just to see if this is another hole. I doubt it will work, but it wouldn't hurt to try.


----------



## AkiraX123

Ordered a xig dark knight off newegg for the incredibly low price of 34.99. Also got two new 120mm rosewill 2000rpm case fans - twice as fast as my cooler master fans now and almost twice the cfm. hopefully these will help with the temps


----------



## Tarabass

Doubt it lol


----------



## USlatin

Hey guys, haven't checked this thread in forever. What's the fastest rock solid OC achievable on a quad, and with which Quad is it?


----------



## datter

A fellow I know on another forum had his Q6600 running nicely at 3.8ghz. I'm up to 3.3ghz myself, might try for higher but I'm mostly happy here so far.


----------



## USlatin

3.8Ghz? Did he have a Vmod?

Do the newer Quads get higher without modding?


----------



## Tarabass

Seeing is believing









But why not ask his settings and post them hear. I'm very curious you see


----------



## USlatin

I remeber when the Q6600 G0 first came out..I got one of the very first ones. If you go back you'll see on this very thread how we went on and on trying to get more out of them. Everyone helped... 3.2GHz unstable seemed the limit with some boards hitting 3.25Ghz unstable as PMS'ing girls.

I was hoping that the new Quads didn't need whatever that voltage was that we figured out the Quads needed more of... but I guess the answer is no.

There is a hard mod that can be done to the MoBo that will let you push them to 3.6Ghz stable and higher... 3.8Ghz was the limit as far as I can remember. Might be a bit more... but that's a hard mod that is also HARD to get done... tiny soldering involved.


----------



## mllrkllr88

I was able to hit 4.0 unstable at 1.65v, and 3.4 stable at 1.325v. I have noticed that this board is really picky about the bios when overclocking a quad. I was using the newest bios (17 something) and couldn't even get past 3.4. But I read this page and learned that 1503 is the shizzle, then I could take it as far as i wanted relative to voltage. I hit 4.1 at 1.725v which was my fsb limit (i think) for my board.

The highest I could bench was 3.9, it resulted 6027 CPU points using 3DMark06, which gave me 19442 total points with 2-9600GT 's.

I purchased this board within the first few days that newegg had it. I still love it, its the oldest component in my system. This board is 10 times better than reference 680i boards. IMO. However, I have my eyes on that X58 gigabyte board whit the liquid cooled NB.


----------



## USlatin

WOW... wow... I need to talk to you...is this from water cooling?!?!

1503 let you bench at 3.9Ghz?!?!

What is your rock solid 24/7 at least 24hs stable clock?

Are you the only one? Anyone else get similar results?


----------



## mllrkllr88

Yes, I am running liquid. Its a simple system though, 2x120 swiftech rad with CPU and NB cooled.

As far as stability goes, I have my own opinion. People may disagree with me, but I don't need a program like prime95 to give stability results. In the real world systems don't get 100% stress for 24 hours. They get 2-15 hours of gaming, ripping dvd's, surfing the web and usual stuff. My stability test goes like this... I go to a LAN party with what I think is the highest stable clock, and I let it ride. If I don't crash after 20 hours of gaming, file transfers and high temps then I know its stable.

So... My highest sudo stable clock is 3.4Ghz 1.325

Here is a link to my 3DMark result:
http://service.futuremark.com/result...Results.action


----------



## mllrkllr88

This is a screen shot of my Q6600 bench at 3.9. Its a crappy picture because I saved it in word pad in XP when I benched. I just did a print screen right now and converted to .jpg just to get it on this page.

Hopefully you can read it


----------



## USlatin

Ok... so not even 3.4 is stable... it lets you set it, but 3.4 "pseudo" doesn't work for me... I push the CPU just as hard as Prime does if not worse.

Can you fun Prime at all at 3.4? I know for a fact that there were others who water-cooled the NB and got a little more... I was only able to hit 3.35Ghz but it was crap. I am using a lapped noctua with a 60mm 20CMF fan on it for the NB


----------



## mllrkllr88

OK Ill bite...

How can you utilize your CPU at 100% for 24 hours without benching software?

I believe you, I just cant think of any application that would do that. I have had my Q6600 at 3.4Ghz for probably 8 months without any blue screens, seizing or failure. I have been to a few 12 hour LAN parties, loaded multiple different operating systems onto multiple different raid arrays, and transferred hundreds of gigabytes of media.

I am not trying to call you out, I'm just curious.

BTW: I am gonna run Prime95 for some ridiculous amount of time for the benefit of this thread.

Anyone wanna chime in and tell me why I should run stress programs for CPU stability testing.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*


Anyone wanna chime in and tell me why I should run stress programs for CPU stability testing.


I find, if my rig passes intel burn test 10 passes of test 2 (half mem used) i'm good to go








It takes ten mins or so, and keep an eye on the temps








All the others take too long


----------



## USlatin

Editing, I don't do it for 24hs but if it craps out this is not a LAN party embarrassment for me, it is work, and if I lose my project it is a little more serious... if I corrupt my C: it is serious... just post the bench and leave it at that.


----------



## foreal

Hello folks!

I'm kinda new to OCing, and i've been reading here and then on serveral forums about how to oc my wreckage. But it seems most of them either dont have my CPU of they dont post any specific thingy's about how they managed to do it









I've read on a different forum some guy reached the 4.5 ghz with the same mobo and cpu on air cooled stuffz.









Is there any1 who can give me a little bit more specific information on how to OC my wreck, and where to look for?

Thanks in Advance!

Greatz foreal!


----------



## Texuguinho

Hi

I have one [email protected] with this specs:

Vcore: 1.25
Mem voltage 2.1
NB: 1.4
SB: 1.5
1.2HTT: 1.25
CPU VTT: 1.55

I can't reach the 4.0. If i increase FSB, the computer not boot.

Can you help me?

Thks


----------



## nicoloco

Guys. I'm having a serious problem with flashing the mobo. I followed the instructions given in this thread but I just get an error message. Trying to flash from an USB-device. Anybody else got any problems? I stupidly flashed my motherboard to see if it could help on my problems with my defect RAM, which I didn't know was defect then of course









Edit:
I wanna go back a couple of versions from the newest one


----------



## nicoloco

Well.. Since my RAM failed me and I was stupid enough to flash my BIOS to the LATEST 1701 everything has gone to hell.... I can't downgrade it as it says my BIOS contains no data when trying to update with AFUDOS and I can't clock it at all now it seems with this bios. I want my 1203 back!!


----------



## mica3speedy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Texuguinho*


Hi

I have one [email protected] with this specs:

Vcore: 1.25
Mem voltage 2.1
NB: 1.4
SB: 1.5
1.2HTT: 1.25
CPU VTT: 1.55

I can't reach the 4.0. If i increase FSB, the computer not boot.

Can you help me?

Thks


you may need to increase your nb a little bit, hopefully you have some cooling on it. Also for the 45nm chips you don't need the cpu vtt as high. What fsb are you working with trying to get to 4.0? This motherboard seems to top out at anything above 450 fsb.


----------



## TDKai

hi!! everyone:

i am new to this forum, and i am new to my p5n32-e sli, my problem is that i got the board with bios 1205 but it's not running stable so i flashed it to the newest bios 1701 and i try to OC it however i can't get it to work, so i go back to the defalut MB setting but my system is still unstable, i tried to run prime95 and can't get all 4 workers to work for long time(i think each workers means each core right?) and system some times restarts itself, plz help me out here!!!


----------



## TDKai

sorry i forgot to mention that i am using Everestand Coretemp to monitor the temperatures(plz let me know if there is any better program for vist x64)

system at idel
SPP 53*c
MCP 52*c
(i am know they are North and South bridge but not sure which one is whick)

CPU
core0 33*c
core1 31*c
core2 28*c
core3 32*c


----------



## Tarabass

The northbridge is (what's in the name) at the top, the southbridge is beneath. Cores seems to be fine, bridges also. PSU should be fine too.

Maybe you can run you PC with just one bank of memory? What does Prime do if you test the minimum of hardware? Try to encapsulate your problem in that way to get the hardwarepart that is causes the problems you have. Did you run a memtest already?

Computers can also get unstable using to much hardware on one powerline. Or using cheap fans with cheap connectors, and putting that in front of you harddrive. Try to assemble it in a way that the important parts having there own powercord. Other parts like fans, lights and stuff like that can have there own powercord in that way. Even the use of more sata-connectors on one powerline can cause problems, for that read the manual of your PSU


----------



## TDKai

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tarabass* 
The northbridge is (what's in the name) at the top, the southbridge is beneath. Cores seems to be fine, bridges also. PSU should be fine too.

Maybe you can run you PC with just one bank of memory? What does Prime do if you test the minimum of hardware? Try to encapsulate your problem in that way to get the hardwarepart that is causes the problems you have. Did you run a memtest already?

Computers can also get unstable using to much hardware on one powerline. Or using cheap fans with cheap connectors, and putting that in front of you harddrive. Try to assemble it in a way that the important parts having there own powercord. Other parts like fans, lights and stuff like that can have there own powercord in that way. Even the use of more sata-connectors on one powerline can cause problems, for that read the manual of your PSU









hi Tarabass:
thx for ur reply and thx for ur solution, i tried to re-arrange the power line and now i am testing with one Ram only, and it's running all 4 core now and all of them just passed 1024k woot!!!(first time ever)

however here are my questions; looking at the situation, the problem is causing by motherboard? or the Ram? on the users manual it indicated that the motherboard only support up to DDR2-800MHz and i am using the 1066MHz Ram(total 4GB).

if the problem is by the motherboard what do i do? and if it's the memory what do i do?(maybe change to another barnd? or just use DDR2-800MHz?)

plz help me out guys and thx again!!!


----------



## TDKai

anyone? plz help me out here


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TDKai* 
hi Tarabass:
thx for ur reply and thx for ur solution, i tried to re-arrange the power line and now i am testing with one Ram only, and it's running all 4 core now and all of them just passed 1024k woot!!!(first time ever)

however here are my questions; looking at the situation, the problem is causing by motherboard? or the Ram? on the users manual it indicated that the motherboard only support up to DDR2-800MHz and i am using the 1066MHz Ram(total 4GB).

if the problem is by the motherboard what do i do? and if it's the memory what do i do?(maybe change to another barnd? or just use DDR2-800MHz?)

plz help me out guys and thx again!!!

The motherboard does support up to 1333 FSB, so with your memory you're good. That's what I think though, saw some guys within this thread running some 1066 memory. The motherboard is a bit picky about the memory. There's a vendor list for this motherboard, but as I can tell you my GeIL memory banks aren't on it and they just running fine. So it good be that the motherboard does not support your brand, although that's a trial-and-error proces. Now you passed the 1024k did you managed to get it run with all the memory? And does your computer feel stable just using it? Try to get it run stable, maybe you can underclock (sorry guys lol) your memory banks to 800mhz? Would like to hear what you are doing and what did work


----------



## TDKai

hi again tarabass:

i did pass the 1024k, however i did it by putting only one stick on the board, and it's running default 800mhz, so i return the Mushkin memory cause i decide to try another brand; any suggestions?


----------



## TDKai

oh and i just figure that on the list, highest speed qualified it's ddr2 800..........so where is the list for 1066???


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TDKai*


hi again tarabass:

i did pass the 1024k, however i did it by putting only one stick on the board, and it's running default 800mhz, so i return the Mushkin memory cause i decide to try another brand; any suggestions?


Just install the memory one at a time and then load setup defaults and set the voltage in the Bios @ 2.2V (!important) and run www.memtest.org! But with any ASUS MB you should disable legacy USB when running this program.

Your computer is running on this memory, so it seems to be supported. What I suggest is trying the above first before buying new ones. It's the hard way, but the fun way


----------



## chizzau

anyone know why i cant set my voltage?? its either 2.2 or ignore.


----------



## Kirmie

Hey guys, I know CoreTemp has been the standard for cooling on this board but has there been a change in this with the new bios that have come out? I'm getting about 5C difference between RealTemp and CoreTemp and I just want to double check.

Edit: Thought that I should mention that I have tried searching the thread but it does not seem to be working for me at the moment. I even tried searching for 1503, which is in the very first post, to no avail.


----------



## ACHILEE5

Are the TJ's both set to 100?


----------



## Kirmie

^^ Not sure, I'm at work right now so I can't check until later. I was googling around a bit and it seemed as though that was an issue with the quads before RealTemp 2.75. I'm using a dual and RealTemp 3.0 so from the looks of things it is unlikely, but since the temperature difference is similar to those that were caused by the Tj Max being lowered to 95 I believe it could be the case.


----------



## xc90

i just change my cpu from e6400 to q6600 go, witch is the very best bios for this cpu














??
thanks


----------



## R.I.P

somebody using new bios - P5N32-E SLI ACPI BIOS Revision 1801 04/24/2009


----------



## mica3speedy

It doesn't look like much has changed since the 1503 bios. I'm using the 1404 bios as the 1503 bios kept putting my multi at 9, no matter what I changed it too.


----------



## Tarabass

I had no problem running on 1701, with the system in my sig. Although my p5n32-e is now build in another system, and replaced by a strikerII formula


----------



## Vostro

Wow awesome guide!! I didnt know this was here!







I am running the 1701 as well and having no problems. Quick question though what is the max voltage my e6750 can handle?


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vostro*


Wow awesome guide!! I didnt know this was here!







I am running the 1701 as well and having no problems. Quick question though *what is the max voltage my e6750 can handle*?


Looks like you can go up to 1.5v








http://processorfinder.intel.com/det...px?sSpec=SLA9V


----------



## S P A T F R A K

hello guys , i'm gonna oc my system,since it was that or upgrade, and with ocing i learn some new tricks









mb







5N32-E SLI
cpu: C2D E6600
mem: 2 x OCZ2T8002GK (so 4 x 1 gb) both sets in dual channel mode and fully SLI certified
BIOS:1503

I don't have any coolers yet , so i began with tweaking the memory timings

here's what i got : http://www.eclipseoc.com/index.php?id=1,106,0,0,1,0

I can't get it to the epp settings of 4-4-4-15-1T at 400(800)Mhz
[EDIT:it won't post],I tried voltage settings from 1.85 tot 2.250 (2.3 is warranty void)
I read somewhere else that epp won't work with 4 sticks of ram and 1T timings are also hard,2 sticks seems to be the max for 1t to work properly,but i hope you know a way









I got it to work at 720 Mhz 4-4-4-15-1T (2.0-2.1 V) and when i change to 4-4-4-15-2T i can crank the Mhz up but i read in the guide 1T is best.

All settings are on set on BIOS: manual , SLI disabled,Unlinked,
and no CPU oc yet (no proper coolers YET)

What are my options? can't i really get proper 1T timings with all ram slots full?

Also i would like to know at what CPU speeds a Chipset ,North and Southbridge cooler is needed next to a good CPU cooler








I thought of slowly pushing to 3.5-4 Ghz myself in the long run

Thanks a lot and great Guide btw already learned a lot here









Greetings Spat


----------



## Tarabass

I'm afraid you have to live with it. This mobo is very picky about the ram, if it's not on the vendor list you are lucky it runs lol.

First I would update the bios, maybe that helps in a way. Put your nb and sb-volts like been said in the OP, for a system as stable as it will get. From there you can try to set those settings you want. And get a decent cooler









[edit]As I have read the link you gave, what does the ram do when you go to 5-5-5?

I'm building myself a system for my girly, p5n32-e sli with a e6600. Just saying lol


----------



## nicoloco

Quick question. Could anybody tell my why my Q6600 G0 is showing like this in CoreTemp?









Edit: I just changed my CPU to a Q from the one in the signature. Oh, and I cleared CMOS after changing.


----------



## S P A T F R A K

@ tarabass hehe then your girl must be very special to you,it still is a nice setup









updated to BIOS 1801 the only thing that seems to have changed is that the SLI memory option is now correctly grayed out,stating that due to chipset limitations only two modules can be inserted to get it to work.
And now between my windows loading screen and the actual desktop my monitor gets a no-signal command for a few sec lol, scary..

But it didn't help much with the 1T timing getting it up to 800 Mhz,i also copied all voltages from OP and tried the 5-5-5-15-1T settings you suggested but it's a no go,still the same story.
But it works at 720 Mhz guess i'll have to live with it indeed lol....

But just to anticipate what i'm getting into at what cpu oc's would i need chipset and NB,SB coolers? 
(i'm getting the scythe mugen 2 for cpu seems decent)

Thanks/Bedankt


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *S P A T F R A K*


@ tarabass hehe then your girl must be very special to you,it still is a nice setup










They are old parts of my previous setup (that's why i'm still in this topic) and the price you get now a days is very low. My new mobo was very good priced, so I decided to build a new system out of it. And my girly loves windows 7 (it's so beautiful







) so now she's windows 7 ready lol









Quote:



updated to BIOS 1801 the only thing that seems to have changed is that the SLI memory option is now correctly grayed out,stating that due to chipset limitations only two modules can be inserted to get it to work.
And now between my windows loading screen and the actual desktop my monitor gets a no-signal command for a few sec lol, scary..

But it didn't help much with the 1T timing getting it up to 800 Mhz,i also copied all voltages from OP and tried the 5-5-5-15-1T settings you suggested but it's a no go,still the same story.
But it works at 720 Mhz guess i'll have to live with it indeed lol....


You could decided to go back to 1701 or lower if it scares you as hell. It's a shame but as said, this mobo/chipset is very picky about the memory. Many, many people are aware of that. Maybe it's solving out when you are oc'ing your cpu, i can't tell.

Quote:



But just to anticipate what i'm getting into at what cpu oc's would i need chipset and NB,SB coolers? 
(i'm getting the scythe mugen 2 for cpu seems decent)

Thanks/Bedankt










I never used some other chipset-cooling. Just keep a eye on those temps, if the airlow of your case is good you should be fine. I think the stock heatsinks of the chipset are good to go. It seems to be in my HAF32-case.

No thanks/Geen dank


----------



## t4ct1c47

If you are only seeing two cores in CoreTemp after swicthing out a dual core CPU for a quad core one, redownload and install CoreTemp. This will allow it to see all four cores again as the previous settings of the dual core CPU will be removed.


----------



## S P A T F R A K

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tarabass*


It's a shame but as said, this mobo/chipset is very picky about the memory. Many, many people are aware of that. Maybe it's solving out when you are oc'ing your cpu, i can't tell.


yeah but it is on the QVL and even A,B and C certified,i did look at compatibility lol

(abc meaning)
A* : Supports one module inserted in any slot as Single-channel memory configuration
B* : Supports one pair of modules inserted into eithor the blue slots or the white slots as one pair of Dual-channel memory configuration
C* : Supports 4 modules inserted into both the blue and white slots as two pairs of Dual-channel memory configuration

Just never knew that the 1T settings would be a problem with all slots full, oh well i'll never forget now XD

Grtz Spat


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *S P A T F R A K*


yeah but it is on the QVL and even A,B and C certified,i did look at compatibility lol

(abc meaning)
A* : Supports one module inserted in any slot as Single-channel memory configuration
B* : Supports one pair of modules inserted into eithor the blue slots or the white slots as one pair of Dual-channel memory configuration
C* : Supports 4 modules inserted into both the blue and white slots as two pairs of Dual-channel memory configuration

Just never knew that the 1T settings would be a problem with all slots full, oh well i'll never forget now XD

Grtz Spat


Like a said. VERY picky lol! Didn't know it was on the QVL-list, but that's something I don't even read. I just take a pair of GeIL-memory, does the trick for me al the time









The a-b-c story is something new to me. Never heard of that, so I learned something today. Thanks for that!


----------



## mllrkllr88

Hey guys









I just installed the Thermaltake Extreme Sprint II, and I wanted to give an update on it. I had some trouble with my card not seating properly because the nut closest to the SATA ports is too high. To fix this issue, I had to shorten the mounting post, use a tiny nut, and chop my card a bit. I even bent the bracket lower.

This cooler is not a direct plug and play install. you are going to have to get out the dremel and start cutting. I drilled a 1/4 hole in the plastic housing card housing, which is not a big deal because I have 9600gt's and they are old. However, if you have a GTX295 or something. it would be hard to make the sprint work without cutting your card housing.
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/5562/img2321c.jpg

So...
Does anybody know of a liquid block that will work on the southbridge?
I have tried:
http://www.enzotechnology.com/snbw_reva.htm
&
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=662
Neither of these blocks work








Must be compatible with SLi


----------



## xc90

there it is two proposals


----------



## mllrkllr88

What are those blocks? EK?

Do you have any pictures or proof that they will mount and clear SLI cards? It looks like they would be a good fit, just wandering.

REP for you!


----------



## IanStoianov

So, anyway, what's the best BIOS for overclocking a Q6600? I've been through the whole thead but couldn't find a conclusive answer. I got the 1205 BIOS currently and wanted to overclock further then the measly 2750 Mhz I got running right now, since It's proving to be a bottleneck for my new GTX275. Any help will be greatly aprecciated.


----------



## Kirmie

I just got an IFX-14 that I want to install so that the air from the fans I put on it will be exhausted through my two 120mm case fans rather than my 2 PSU fans and an 80mm hole that I will eventually be inserting a fan into (or on the backside heatsink since it will be right below that). Yes, it will fit, though not very much other room. What I am interested in is cooling the northbridge heatsink since I have switched from the stock HSF which would spew air from the cooler and onto the northbridge heatsink and mosfets. I'll list out my questions for easier reading.

1. What size is the northbridge heatsink (just the part that sits on the chip). Height, length, and width. Estimate in the shape of a square is fine/preferable.

2. Is it worth getting the EVERCOOL EC-VC-RE Ball All In One Vga Cooler Kit and some mosfets compared to placing a small fan on or next to the northbridge heatsink?

3. Would placing a small fan underneath the IFX-14 that blows across the mosfets (so that it is blowing the same direction as the fans on the IFX-14) effect the temperature of the northbridge? I don't have an IR thermometer so I can't measure the temp of my northbridge. This could be measured by using passive cooling on the CPU then reading the temp of the northbridge before and after having a fan cool the area near the mosfets if somebody is willing to look into it.

4. How much of a pain is it to remove and re-install the northbridge heatsink with some AS5 (don't factor in removing the motherboard because I will already be taking it out)? Will I have to put some AS5 on anything other than the northbridge chip itself?

5. Do you think having two 120x38 Delta AFB1212SHE's in a push push or push pull will create enough airflow for the northbridge? If H is heatsink and F is fan with the case fans on the left I mean either HFHF or FHHF since this has two split sections.

6. Am I being overly paranoid about this? I had my system running with 1.4V to the northbridge with no problems and the stock HSF so I'm sure it won't need too much extra airflow, if any.

Got to thinking about this at work and I want to know other people's opinions and I can't do any measuring myself at the moment. Also want to look into possibly using the HR-05 if it fits inbetween the two IFX-14 heatsinks or the HR-05 SLI if it can offset enough to go outside of the IFX-14 but these are definently not preferable.


----------



## xc90

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88* 
What are those blocks? EK?

Do you have any pictures or proof that they will mount and clear SLI cards? It looks like they would be a good fit, just wandering.

REP for you!

the brand is ALPHACOOL NEXXXOS, google it up
regards


----------



## mllrkllr88

Do you have any pictures of this block installed?


----------



## datter

Hey all, back to the thread after some time away with two questions:

1) Will lowering my CPU volts help bring my northbridge and/or southbridge temps down?
2) What is a comfortable set of temps for the NB/SB?

My NB tends to run around 72 at idle, and up to maybe 77c underload. the SB is maybe 5c less than that at all times. Something to be worried about?


----------



## mica3speedy

I think those temps are extremely hot for both. I think you want 60 max. What voltages do you have your nb and sb set at? I suggest for the moment is to lower your overclock, and get some active cooling for both.


----------



## Mateeltebbes

Hi,i have just build a new computer with the P5N32-E SLI,with aQ6600,everything works,all the fans turn,the psu runs,the videocards run,as far as i can see the memory works cause the lights work,on the base of the module,(crucial ballistix tracer)only the colored leds on top of the memory don't,but the computer will not boot,all i get is a black screen,not even a bios screen,anyone who had the same problem or who knows what to do,help is very welcome!!!!


----------



## datter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


I think those temps are extremely hot for both. I think you want 60 max. What voltages do you have your nb and sb set at? I suggest for the moment is to lower your overclock, and get some active cooling for both.


Very little differences in my NB/SB temps at stock speeds actually, plus I can't go back now.







Did some tinkering, same OC and my NB and SB both stay at around 68c under heavy load so I'm not as concerned.


----------



## DaLiu

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mateeltebbes*


Hi,i have just build a new computer with the P5N32-E SLI,with aQ6600,everything works,all the fans turn,the psu runs,the videocards run,as far as i can see the memory works cause the lights work,on the base of the module,(crucial ballistix tracer)only the colored leds on top of the memory don't,but the computer will not boot,all i get is a black screen,not even a bios screen,anyone who had the same problem or who knows what to do,help is very welcome!!!!










I have the same issue sometimes with my second pc using P5N32-E SLI with E6600, 4 GB A-Data, 8600 GT. The problem is random, sometimes is starting, sometimes not, to fix the problem is to get everything out of the case and put them on the table.


----------



## jacksondoggy

I expect my Areca 1210 Controller in today and I'm wondering if anyone uses it? Any problems? I plan to RAID 0 2 Raptors on it and also will install an INTEL SSDSA2MH080G2C1 X25M 80GB SATA 3.0 Gen 2 solid state drive on the main controller.


----------



## jacksondoggy

These are my temps for the Northbridge & Southbridge. Are these too hot? I dread tearing down my system to put fans on these chips but I haven't even overclocked at this point.









Suggestions please:


SPP 72 Â°C (162 Â°F)
MCP 63 Â°C (145 Â°F)
Motherboard seems to be hot too? 43 degrees?


----------



## S P A T F R A K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jacksondoggy* 
These are my temps for the Northbridge & Southbridge. Are these too hot? I dread tearing down my system to put fans on these chips but I haven't even overclocked at this point.









Suggestions please:


SPP 72 Â°C (162 Â°F)
MCP 63 Â°C (145 Â°F)
Motherboard seems to be hot too? 43 degrees?

thats pretty hot, i tie ripped a 50 mm fan to my
SSP and went from 79 to 52 c under load
Thats probably because i got the mugen 2 on my cpu wich does a great job on the cpu , i installed to vent out and not downward ,and the p5n32-e sli has heatpipes all round the cpu,so no airflow there, but strapping a simple little vent for some air flow does wonders

You can expect BSOD's around 80-85 c (on my board) (SSP)
My MCP isn't modded yet,it runs at 66c idle so i'll get another fan tommorow when shop opens

and about the mb temp,everest gives me 33 c idle

edit : i'm running a mild oc with these temps e6600 from 2.4 to 3 ghz but when the southbridge is cooled it can go waaay faster


----------



## slytown

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jacksondoggy* 
These are my temps for the Northbridge & Southbridge. Are these too hot? I dread tearing down my system to put fans on these chips but I haven't even overclocked at this point.









When I had the board I ended up cutting the heatpipe to the NB and replacing the HS with an aftermarket. 43 C isn't hot for the mobo, but you'll want to get the NB down in the 50s on load. An aftermarket HS should give you more breathing room in your OC. If you don't want to cut it a 50mm fan will do just fine.

http://www.overclock.net/other-cooli...-heatpipe.html

Man I haven't checked out this thread forever. Was one of my frequent visits too. God bless Robilar.


----------



## S P A T F R A K

Is it normal when i clock my [email protected] to 3.5 Ghz and beyond it says that another cpu is installed??
After post,a quick mesage comes up saying that and then it reboots,it runs fine though and it still shows as a E6600.
Temps are fine too (all under 50 c except the MCP runs at 59 c,but it was much hotter when i ran stock and without a fan ziptied to it so that shouldn't be a problem.

When i clock under 3.5 Ghz it again tells me that a new cpu is installed,like there are 2 E6600's one for under 3.5 and one for above









Am i pushing it to hard ? temps are still ok.. boots into windows,can play around but i went back to 3.4 just to be safe

Can anyone comment on this?

Cheers!


----------



## Chickenman

Yeah it does the same for me on my current bios. It seems to be the way that the initial overclocking issues with this board were fixed.

Certainly don't worry about it at all if you are still able to o/clock.

Edit: I see some questions about spp and mcp temps - this is my pc with a HR05 sli and some other random chipset cooler, temps for both mcp and spp are around 48-50 without any cooling on the heatsinks apart from the case fans.


----------



## S P A T F R A K

Thanks Chickenman!
Good to hear ,i'll get back to pushing it further then.


----------



## mwoods07

OK, I hope someone can assist me with a little issue that has been driving me CRAZY.

I see some people on here with similar setups. Are any of you having issue with this motherboard and their 8800 series video cards? I am having all kinds of issues that started with an 8800 GTS which was returned and has continued with two 8800 GTX's they have sent me RMA. I am running Windows 7 64 bit currently, however it started while I was still running Win XP 32 bit.

Tech support for the video card says it could be the MB Chipset isn't compatible with the Nvidia drivers, however the only Chipset provided for this board is from 2006 from Asus website. I have updated the BIOS to the latest. I tried using the OLDEST Nvidia win 7 64 drivers, from May 2009, but didn't solve the issue. I could try to reinstall xp and use drivers from like 2007 (I know those WERE working, but I wasn't sure what drivers I was using when I updated them and they stopped working. I don't want to go this route...

I saw where jacksondoggy is running a very similar setup as me and was wondering if he had any issues? Regardless, are there any ideas out there? BTW, I was running an ATI 6850 HD card in the meantime during RMA period and it was flawless. That is my HTPC card, not designed for gaming so don't want to use it. Please help!

Asus P5n32e SLI plus
Core 2 Duo 6600 (not overclocked anymore until I get this issue resolved)
BFG 8800 GTX OC
4 GB Patriot DDR2 memory
OCZ Gamer 850watt power supply
Zlaman 9600 LED cooler
Antec 900 Case
3x Western Digital Caviar 250gb HD's in a Raid 0
Creative Sound Blaster Extreme xfi Gamer
Lite-on DVD burner


----------



## Tarabass

Issues like?


----------



## mwoods07

Issues like games locking up, display driver not responding, windows rebooting itself.


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mwoods07* 
Issues like games locking up, display driver not responding, windows rebooting itself.

Sounds more like a software/OS problem. A fresh install didn't solve the issues for you, which driver are you using, can't you find some pointers in your logs (of the os)?


----------



## S P A T F R A K

I had a 8800GTS 640 before i got my GTX275 , and it ran smootly on vista 32 and 64 bit on this board. I sold my 8800GTS so i don't know about windows 7 .
I always pull my chipset drivers from the nvidia page ,just select the newest 680i SLI,they work fine for me.

I did have some issues with the nvidia display drivers for a while though after 169.68 the primary display would switch to s-video after instalation , i also seemed to be the only one in the world , drove me insane ,but they fixed it in 178.xx

But lockups etc never


----------



## Snake Doc

Hi Everyone,
Just joined the site and this is my first post. I came across the above guide(very good by the way) and I am just wondering, as there are some hardware differences between the testing rig and mine, if the guide would apply to my machine as well. I have not really tried to overclock before only using the 110% and 115% features in the BIOS. All I want to do is to increase the speed of the CPU and RAM. I would like to increase to speed of data transfer around my machine. Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers and hello to all!

The following are my machine details:
CPU Type QuadCore Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600, 2400 MHz (9 x 267)
Motherboard Asus P5N32-E SLI BIOS
BIOS Revision 1801
MB Chipset nVIDIA nForce 680i SLI
System Memory 2048 MB (DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM) Corsair XMS2
Video Adapter NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTS (640 MB) xxx edition
Audio ASUS Xonar D2x


----------



## Tarabass

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Snake Doc* 
Hi Everyone,
Just joined the site and this is my first post. I came across the above guide(very good by the way) and I am just wondering, as there are some hardware differences between the testing rig and mine, if the guide would apply to my machine as well. I have not really tried to overclock before only using the 110% and 115% features in the BIOS. All I want to do is to increase the speed of the CPU and RAM. I would like to increase to speed of data transfer around my machine. Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers and hello to all!

The following are my machine details:
CPU Type QuadCore Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600, 2400 MHz (9 x 267)
Motherboard Asus P5N32-E SLI BIOS
BIOS Revision 1801
MB Chipset nVIDIA nForce 680i SLI
System Memory 2048 MB (DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM) Corsair XMS2
Video Adapter NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTS (640 MB) xxx edition
Audio ASUS Xonar D2x

If you want to increase data transfers, you might be better of with some fast harddrives. Since this is the bottleneck of almost every system, this is the point where you start speeding up your data transfers.

I got 2 raptors in my machine, i hope some day replace them with ssd's, and i can tell you that gives a magnificent push to the system. I got them in raid0, so the data transfer is very fast..

For your system, yes you can use this guide to oc your machine. Just keep in mind the maximum voltage of your hardware, and the specs of it


----------



## lux

Man wish I would have found this thread 3 years ago. LOL. 
3 years later I finally got my P5N32-E SLI & E6600 oc'd at 3.4G and stable. 
Better late than never, thanks Robilar.


----------



## Devas

Im having crashing issues with my Overclock, which I didn't have before and after i shut down my computer for about 12 hrs, and restarted it crashes after 10-15 mins inside Windows 7. When I change it back to default settins in the bios its fine.

My current overclock specs are:

Intel Core 2 Q6600 @ 2.4 ghz - Overclocked to 3.0 ghz, with a 1333 FSB
(all settings are exactly as the screen shots that was taken on the first page of this post.)

CPU Temperture is around 35-45 Degrees C, SPP temperture is around 75-83 Degrees C

Motherboard is P5N32-E running newest bios, i believe its 1908 or something like that.

It was working fine for like a 2 weeks until i decided to turn off the computer for 12 hrs, and now its crashing, can anyone please help!


----------



## mllrkllr88

I have had the NB of this board on water for about 4 years now and I want to take it out of the loop!

Anyone know of a good NB cooler for this board? I don't think space will be a problem as I have the CPU on water also.

P.S Don't bother mentioning the







Sprint because it sucks!!!!!! I have had it on the SB and it is barely handling the heat.


----------



## Slyer

I'm experienced in computers but this is my first time overclocking. I've had this pc for 3 years or so but have never bothered to overclock it, I had intended to once it became necessary.
I've been having trouble getting this board to overclock even by 10mhz.
Whenever I change the FSB higher than stock I get this message on boot, and any overclock I have made is completely ignored by the time I boot into windows. [See Attachment]

I've tried overclocking to 2.5 and 2.7ghz (these figures appear on the boot screen but aren't actually true when I log into windows to check CPU-Z.
I tried these settings by setting the bios to defaults and only changing these a tiny bit, still doesn't hold.
I've also tried several different BIOS's.









Could it be one of my computer components?

Has anyone seen this message before?


----------



## Gnickrapon

Been using this board for about 2yrs now. Running an e6600 @ 3.2 rock solid (thanks Robilar and everyone who helped). Figure it's now time for a cpu upgrade. Want to stick with this mobo considering it's so familiar and it really hasn't given me any trouble at all. Thoughts anyone?


----------



## Metal425

Would an E8400 work in this board?


----------



## SLIMaxPower

Has anyone tried a q9400 or q9505 in these boards. They aren't on the official support list but doesn't mean they WONT work ? thoughts....

edit: took the plunge and put the q9400 into the board with the newest beta bios 1901.

CPU is running at stock speeds atm. My 800 ram struggles to hit 900 as it used to so will wait for my OCZ PC2-8500 Reaper HPC 2x2GB to arrive before I start OC'ing.

Boots from cold are okay, its the restarts which cause it to hang.

sigh. I have officially been broken. My Q9400 and OCZ 8500 ram has been sequestered to my better half's pc. Back to my trusted e8400.


----------



## iceet

Just to let yous know, I managed to get 2x2GB of OCZ PC2-8500 memory running at 1066mhz. I have an e6600 currently at 3.4 ghz

Here are my settings
Vcore 1.45v
Memory 2.25v
1.2HT 1.3v
NB 1.4v
SB untouched
VTT 1.55v


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

quick question....

i have one of these board laying around and i have a spare Q9550. will this board support a Q9550? 
was going to use this board to fold with since it is a P5N32-E SLI, but if i have to i guess i could use my EP45-UD3L with 1 video card


----------



## mica3speedy

The p5n32-e does not support the 45nm quads; I was very disappointing when I found this out. I would just use the p45 board that you have







.


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mica3speedy* 
The p5n32-e does not support the 45nm quads; I was very disappointing when I found this out. I would just use the p45 board that you have







.

ya i tested and no luck. i wanted to fold with this board. oh well.
maybe i use it for a cheap build and give it to my son


----------



## farina

Better late than never ehh?

So, if anyone is still reading this post...I'm going to toss my questions onto the pile. I've had this board for around 3 years...I weathered the amazing "Display driver failed" issue with Windows Vista and Nvidia. I've overclocked, underclocked and damn near crushed the board with a baseball bat. Long story short...I apparently have no idea what the hell I'm doing!

So, I built my old roommate's machine using the exact same board, and many similar parts. On Bios 1601 I was able to get the Core 2 Duo E6400 2.13GHz to 3.1GHz and his 8GB of Mushkin PC2-8500 memory to run at 1066MHz. It runs very stable...and hasn't caused him any issues.

On my set-up, it's a different story. With the only real difference being my memory...I have NEVER been able to get my memory (Corsair XMS2-8500) to run at 1066MHz or 533MHz bus. I can run the processor up to whatever I want it seems...but the memory won't budge. In fact, I can't even boot the board if I set the memory to 1066MHz with stock timings.

When I'm talking about MHz I'm referring to the numbers reflected in the Bios under the overclocking screen. I typically run with the CPU and Memory "Unlinked" and manually type in the numbers I desire. Unless I'm completely stupid, I'm assuming the "actual" FSB speeds it displays are literally the speed I want. So when I type 1066 and it says 1065.somebull*****...it understands what I mean??

So what have I tried...short of buying new memory? Well, clearly the voltage. By default I run it at 2.1V but I've gone as high as 2.2. The timings...I've tried about every variation I can think of. The slots...I've changed the memory to be slotted as the documentation says (which is counter intuitive to the colors of the board). New PSU.

At this point I don't know where to turn. I simply want my memory to function at the 1066MHz advertised by Corsair. If someone reads this...let me know if I'm missing something.


----------



## Grobinov.

I got my q6600 to 3.74ghz stable. well in games and 3dmark and super Pi. i havnt tried any other tests yet. what do i have to run before you call it stable.


----------



## Man|aC

I run oCCT for 8 hours. Then Prime 95 small for 8 hours, blend for 8 hours, then large FFT''s for 8 hours. Then i am happy.

hello i switched from a e6700 to a e8500 with my sli plus board (still going strong) and i still are not quite sure which max CPU VTT and vcore is safe for this chip. Also, is realtemp giving an accurate cpu temp? Ive read conflicting reports.

Also, I bump up the Vcore to 1.3 but once i reboot it shows only 1.26 in the bios? Speedfan is even lower with a vcore2 at 3.2v??!?!?

I hate not knowing. because i am scared to push the volts up to get it stable past 3.71. I really want to get it to 4!!!! Rams at stock speed just so everyone knows. Stock voltage gave max real temp of 45, and im keeping it at 49 at 3.71 with 1.327 volts in with NB @ 1.4, CPU VTT @ 1.25. I think it can run a lower voltage stable but i havent got to that yet! I want to push it!


----------



## mica3speedy

Farina, this board only supports up to 800 spd memory, so your 1066 spd memory may not not run that due to the limitations of the board.

Man|aC, the max vcore on the e8xx series is 1.3675 vcore, and vtt can be upped a little to 1.3. Your nb may also need to be bumped up to 1.45.

Now here's and interesting situation that I have. I just put in an Antec true power 750w power supply, and a GTX 470. My overclock is no longer stable, and I used to be able to run at 3.825ghz and my memory at 800 with the 1404 bios. I'm now running at 3.6ghz, and 800. I would like to get at least some of my oc back. Any help would be appreciated. Here are my voltages that I ran with 3.8:

vcore 1.35
memory 1.95 (4-4-4-12 1t at 850)
nb 1.45
sb 1.6
cpu vtt 1.3
DDR 2 controller Ref voltage Auto
DDR 2 channel a Auto
DDR 2 channel b Auto

As for system clocks I have all pci-e set to 100, and spp <-> mcp set to 200

my machine won't do a bios boot at 3.8. Would a newer bios help? Increase voltages more? Any suggestions?


----------



## Chickenman

My biggest issues with this board come down to voltage regulation but I use a quad though.

In saying that - the bridges get ridiculously hot with stock cooling - an hr 05 or similar is required for prolonged overclocking etc.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3049/...9f27aeea_o.jpg


----------



## mica3speedy

I wonder if voltage regulation is now my issue with my system. I didn't take into account the extra load the 470 put on the system over the 8600gt (duh). I've tried the latest bios, increased the voltages on the cpu, nb, sb, and memory and tested. 3.6 is the max that is stable now. Oh well I've tried; this setup only has to last until next year, then its being replaced.


----------



## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mica3speedy*


As for system clocks I have all pci-e set to 100, and spp <-> mcp set to 200

my machine won't do a bios boot at 3.8. Would a newer bios help? Increase voltages more? Any suggestions?


What was your PSU before the True. That would help.


----------



## mica3speedy

It was a cooler master Rp-550-pcar 550w power supply. While it was a decent power supply, I can't see it being superior to the antec unit that replaced it. I could be wrong though...


----------



## Chickenman

After having this board for years I'm still not bothering to upgrade as the jump just aint that big unless you spend WTMM (way too much money >.>).

So - this is the sweet spot for my board and chip just for reference, it gives a potential overclock of 3.75 ghz but my chip needs 1.53 in bios for stability at 3.75 and my AC7 just can't cool that much powah effectively so I leave it at the below settings.

As always - Good NB and SB cooling is REQUIRED - You can fry eggs with standard cooling and settings let alone a decent overclock.

Now this is specifically for those with Q6600 G0 Chips... Dual core is much easier to get right on this board and you shouldn't have the FSB hole issues that have driven quad owners nutty.


























So yeah - CPU voltage may vary, my VID is 1.2875v but overall the board settings are very solid for me.

It's at least a good place to start if you have a quad.


----------



## mica3speedy

That's a solid oc especially for a quad on this board







. With your nb at 1.55, what are your temps like?


----------



## Chickenman

MCP = 42
SPP = 55

These temps are from everest though which is 10 degrees c under realtemp for CPU readings.


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

i got a spare P5N32-E SLI laying around and wanted to see if i could use it. i slapped an E8500 on it and 1GB G.Skill F2-8500CL5D on it.

when the bios loads i make a few changes it freezes in the bios.... if i hit TAB and go to the message display it freezes.. if i get a slim chance to boot into windows i see the load screen then BSOD.

bios 1903

any ideas before i use it as a target to sight in the Crossbow?


----------



## zvzulndr

I really would like to get the Palit GTX 465 card. Anyone know if it will fit on this board WITH the card's cover intact? I have the Palit 9600GT and had to take off the orange cover to get the card to fit. There are transformer coils near the PCI-E slots that prevent a graphics card from seatting all the way in the slot.

Also, it it worth it to get this card on this M/B? Or just wait and build a new system (MB. Memory, processor)?


----------



## my94r/t

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XtremeCuztoms* 
i got a spare P5N32-E SLI laying around and wanted to see if i could use it. i slapped an E8500 on it and 1GB G.Skill F2-8500CL5D on it.

when the bios loads i make a few changes it freezes in the bios.... if i hit TAB and go to the message display it freezes.. if i get a slim chance to boot into windows i see the load screen then BSOD.

bios 1903

any ideas before i use it as a target to sight in the Crossbow?

I am having the same issue with mine freezing after making changes in the BIOS. I am on BIOS 1801.

I am also having issues trying to run the cpu @stock speeds. Even with all settings manually set in the BIOS to factory speeds(1066 FSB), the CPU still runs @1333 FSB, which is running too warm for my liking with the stock Intel cooler I am using right now.

Any ideas?

EDIT: Just updated BIOS to the newest(1903). Still having same issues.


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## Sabo

I have this board with a Q6600. According to Everest my NB and SB is running quite hot, both being around 71C on idle. If I went ahead and got me a pair of HR-05 in order to OC (trying out 2.7k atm) to 3k+ and my MB decides to give up on me for whatever reason, those HR-05's could potentially be used on future MB's as well, right? Same goes for HR-09 (mosfet coolers)?

I am a bit reluctant to pay the money for those four coolers if the chances of re-using them on another mobo is slim if my current, three year old computer, call it quits.


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## slytown

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtremeCuztoms*


i got a spare P5N32-E SLI laying around and wanted to see if i could use it. i slapped an E8500 on it and 1GB G.Skill F2-8500CL5D on it.

when the bios loads i make a few changes it freezes in the bios.... if i hit TAB and go to the message display it freezes.. if i get a slim chance to boot into windows i see the load screen then BSOD.

bios 1903

any ideas before i use it as a target to sight in the Crossbow?


Do you have an HDD hooked up to it? I remember until I could manually set my RAM voltage I had to keep all the SATA ports open.

If it's old it might have developed some rust from dust sitting on the PCBs so long. Moisture can get trapped and cause some issues.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sabo*


I have this board with a Q6600. According to Everest my NB and SB is running quite hot, both being around 71C on idle. If I went ahead and got me a pair of HR-05 in order to OC (trying out 2.7k atm) to 3k+ and my MB decides to give up on me for whatever reason, those HR-05's could potentially be used on future MB's as well, right? Same goes for HR-09 (mosfet coolers)?

I am a bit reluctant to pay the money for those four coolers if the chances of re-using them on another mobo is slim if my current, three year old computer, call it quits.


71C is fine for the NB. It can withstand a lot. I still have a Jing Ting cooler lying around if you want it. I'd sell it cheap CONUS, but unless you are having stability issues, don't worry about that temp on the NB or SB.

3ghz is pretty good on this bored, depending on what cooler you have. It doesn't OC core 2 quads well, but was the champ for core 2 duos.


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## Rifanos

Hi there
I'm new at overclocking but for the detail in this guide is great. WTG Robilar.
Now my question is what should be a good overclocking Configuration with my System?
plz consider that I'm super new in overclocking so is like you talking with a child








special the memory timing settings and CPU


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## boomish

Please helpppp, I only just found this forum, basically I was wondering if I could do a cheap upgrade on my system by buying an E8400 quad, faster memory? and possibly 1 or 2 GTX460 SLi cards?
otherwise it's a new rampage board or something an i5 a 6970 etc etc..but thats a load of dosh.
I have always had trouble with memory with this board I have in fact 4 sticks of ram but it was always unstable with lots of blue screens when I played Company of heroes etc that would use all the ram. I even got 2 sticks replaced by Crucial after runnign some test but still no difference. Although I read some where int his forum that might be down to too low a voltage, jez after all this time of trying I'd be amazed if it was that simple.

So any ideas on a shopping list for this board? how fast could I get it to go or is it not worth it?

I'd really appreciate any help, want to order before the VAT increase..
Cheers

Boom


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## DarkJedi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boomish;11803946*
> Please helpppp, I only just found this forum, basically I was wondering if I could do a cheap upgrade on my system by buying an E8400 quad, faster memory? and possibly 1 or 2 GTX460 SLi cards?


I can only offer my experiences...and that was that although the board was a demon with a core 2 duo and 2 sticks of RAM, the moment extra RAM was introduced or when I plonked in a Q6600 I had endless issues









No matter what I tried, it seemed like my board just couldn't supply a reliable voltage to either the chip or RAM.
The board is currently in my wife's system with the original E6600 and 3 sticks of RAM in it (it keeps killing OCZ SLI 1066 sticks, I've RMA'd several







) and even though I down clock the RAM at a paltry 600MHz or so it blue screens every day. (It's stable with 2x1Gb RAM but that's not enough for games and I'm loathe to throw any more money at this board!)

Honestly - I'd recommend sticking it out a bit longer with this board and save up the pennies for a new board and chip next year. You'll get so much more FPS per £ if you change platform... (Note that I have a Q6600 at 3.5GHz and a GTX 570 on a Gigabyte 775 board and really need to change platform too - I think Core 2 isn't pushing this card hard enough!)

Also the VAT change isn't going to make much difference to prices - even if you spent £600 ex VAT the difference between 17.5% and 20% VAT on top will only be £15! Ignore all the VAT BS, it's just sellers trying to drum up business to improve their Q4 2010 figures


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## slytown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boomish;11803946*
> Please helpppp, I only just found this forum, basically I was wondering if I could do a cheap upgrade on my system by buying an E8400 quad, faster memory? and possibly 1 or 2 GTX460 SLi cards?
> otherwise it's a new rampage board or something an i5 a 6970 etc etc..but thats a load of dosh.
> I have always had trouble with memory with this board I have in fact 4 sticks of ram but it was always unstable with lots of blue screens when I played Company of heroes etc that would use all the ram. I even got 2 sticks replaced by Crucial after runnign some test but still no difference. Although I read some where int his forum that might be down to too low a voltage, jez after all this time of trying I'd be amazed if it was that simple.
> 
> So any ideas on a shopping list for this board? how fast could I get it to go or is it not worth it?
> 
> I'd really appreciate any help, want to order before the VAT increase..
> Cheers
> 
> Boom


It did better with XP and two sticks. Lots of people had trouble pushing C2Qs past 3.4ghz. I'd upgrade ur mobo and CPU. At the time, it was just about the best C2D overclocking board. The NB gets pretty unstable past 400 FSB, so you may need to raise stock NB voltage +1 notch, but that also makes the NB pretty hot. I ended up throwing an aftermarket cooler on it.


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## boomish

Slytown & Darkjedi, thanks so much for the feedback guys, yes I also realised it's killed one of my extra sticks of ram today trying once again to get them going.
At least I know what to do now, it's how much I can justify on a new rig







My mate keeps going on about how good his games look in Direct x 11..

hmm time to do some more research on what to buy instead







thanks again guys..


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## DarkJedi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boomish;11805316*
> Slytown & Darkjedi, thanks so much for the feedback guys, yes I also realised it's killed one of my extra sticks of ram today trying once again to get them going.
> At least I know what to do now, it's how much I can justify on a new rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My mate keeps going on about how good his games look in Direct x 11..
> 
> hmm time to do some more research on what to buy instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks again guys..


No worries









As I'm sure you know the NDA Sandy Bridge lifts at the beginning of January so it's definitely worth waiting for the launch of those boards and chips, as the rumours indicate they should be pretty sweet (and at the very least the current 1156 i5 stuff should get a bit cheaper to make room!







)


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## Desolator4u

Hey, what are the NB and SB temps suppose to be like? NB is usually 60C and goes up to 71C during gaming while SB is normally 58C and barely ever goes over 60C. These can't be okay, can it? And I searched this whole thread for "temp" and was surprised to get no results.

~Des


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## Nitroin

They are quite correct, rather, they are even pretty low.

In my experience, after hours of mid-to-high load, the NB reaches even 80° (and the mobo is still operative after nearly 4y without problems).
If you stay somewhat below the 90° peak you will be in the "safe-zone".

_cheers_


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## USlatin

can someone please quickly remind me which are the dimms that must be used when only using 2?


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