# Corsair H100 / H80 / H60 noise, grinding pump - *fix* + official Corsair response



## wlw wl

Hello!

*UPDATE:*
*For official Corsair response start here and read on.*

*Official instructions on how to apply for a selective RMA (advanced RMA available per request) here.*
This is no longer true, see here: clicky
Now you have to submit a standard RMA ticket.

Big thanks to CorsairGeorge for speaking up and out!

/update

I'm new here but I've heard from a long-time user s1rrah that there might be some people here interested in fixing their noisy Corsair Hydro coolers.

Some of those units make HDD-like grinding or rattling noise, if you have one you know what I'm talking about.

The simplest cure to that noise is to slow down the pump a bit so the impeller stops rattling. Mind you that this is only patching the symptom of an underlaying issue, one that neither me or you can address at present.

*Update*: check out the CorsairGeorge's posts in this thread, link at the beginning of this post. The cause has been confirmed to be a shaft/bearing issue which results in rattle under certain circumstances (which I will humbly mention that I have suggested some months ago here), one of them being the voltage to speed correlation, and that is why the diode adapter works - because it slows the pump and puts it out of that resonance/rattle RPM range, without impacting the cooling performance.

The issue had been fixed and the new, corrected units are being delivered to Corsair locations.
*/update*

There are several methods do fix that.
One is to use a big 4-pin Molex fan controller in case of H100 or H80, or motherboard's fan header in case of H60.

Another, that is my idea, is to use an adapter, dubbed the "voltage dropper" by the Corsair forum's community, to lower the voltage a little. This is equivalent to running the unit off of a fan controller set to about 90%.
How is it done? Plain and simple - a rectifying diode soldered in series with +12V line, encased as a male Molex to female Molex pass-through. Or as a 4-pin Molex to 3-pin fan header for H60. Just mind the diode's polarity!

The thing looks like this:

http://i39.tinypic.com/72vvns.jpg

(ed: or more recently like this: http://cdn.overclock.net/e/e1/e12e487e_9.jpeg)

and is smaller and easier to conceal than a fan controller. And you can sleeve it etc. Also, unlike transistor-based fan controller or a resistor-based adapter, there is no heat generated from this one.
That is the very first I made, later revisions had the +5V and one GND wires removed so they can be easily told apart from any other adapters.
One diode handles up to 1A forward current, so if you have H100 with 4 strong fans, you might need two diodes in parallel.

The only question left is - what diode one should use?
The simple answer is: any one from the 1N4001 to 1N4007 range. I'm using 1N4001 and it's working in about 90% of the cases or more, hard to keep track of all the droppers I've already sent and those that people made themselves to my guidance.
I also tried Schottky diodes, 1N5817 and 1N5819, but they didn't work with the H100 I had. Fine without fans, still grinding when 2 fans were attached. That's because the forward voltage of those diodes is lower.

I've already made and sent tens of those all over the world (North and South America, Australia, Japan, France, Germany, UK and Italy just to name a few) including s1rrah, and like I've said already, they work in >90% of the cases.
When this will not work is if your cooler is one of the somewhat rarer units that will keep on grinding unless slowed down to 1700RPM and below (from original ~2000RPM). If you combine such a unit with a common 12,3V PSU, one diode is simply not enough. And although there are positive reports, I generally do not encourage running the unit at speeds lower than 1800RPM, and some will keep grinding even below 1700RPM.

So go ahead and try that if you have a noisy Hydro cooler.
If you can't or don't want to make it yourself, you can contact me. I've been sending them for weeks every week now, and when I gather 5-10 people and send a batch away.

The discussion started on Corsair's support forum here:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=97733

I chimed in around page 15 with my findings and solution. As of now it has 32 pages, 467 posts, 57,000 views (update: over 100,000 now, the thread has been closed) and there are numerous cases where people have been RMAing their noisy units 3 or 4 times in a row to no avail, and the mod worked for them and they could finally enjoy their cooler.

If you need more in-depth guidance, feel free to ask.
You can find a detailed photo step-by-step guide in my albums and my sig.

ED: update #3


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## AMD4ME

If the impeller is rattling it could very well be a death rattle. I'm surprised Corsair is continuing to sell these units if they know they have an issue? They stopped selling SSDs for awhile until they sorted out some of the issues with them.


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## wlw wl

Well they say the fault rate on these is below 1% so... they don't care that much. They will replace the unit without questions, but you pay for the shipping to them, and that can be pricey for non-US folks.


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## AMD4ME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Well they say the fault rate on these is below 1% so... they don't care that much. They will replace the unit without questions, but you pay for the shipping to them, and that can be pricey for non-US folks.


That sucks. They said the SSD failures were low too but public pressure forced them to pay for the return. I guess Corsair is becoming just a marketing company these days, which is sad IMO.


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## wlw wl

I don't know what's the situation on the SSDs, but as far as Hydro series goes, they are in retail partnership with CoolIt.
CoolIt makes the Hydro units, Corsair just sells them. So you could very well say that they are just a marketing company in this case.


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## AMD4ME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> I don't know what's the situation on the SSDs, but as far as Hydro series goes, they are in retail partnership with CoolIt.
> CoolIt makes the Hydro units, Corsair just sells them. So you could very well say that they are just a marketing company in this case.


Yeah, I know. Corsair doesn't make their PSUs or most of their products...


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## PathOfTheRighteousMan

This issue was on my first H100. I have another one, and it's happening too. Off topic, the fan controller on the 600T burnt out as well.

Never buying anything but Corsair memory ever again. That and to RMA a H100 costs €72. A new H100 is €95. Gotta love the way it works out.

ANYWAY, this fixed worked, thanks!


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## AMD4ME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PathOfTheRighteousMan*
> 
> This issue was on my first H100. I have another one, and it's happening too. Off topic, the fan controller on the 600T burnt out as well.
> Never buying anything but Corsair memory ever again. That and to RMA a H100 costs €72. A new H100 is €95. Gotta love the way it works out.
> ANYWAY, this fixed worked, thanks!


That's not good and very frustrating to say the least.


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## 7ranslucen7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Well they say the fault rate on these is below 1% so... they don't care that much. They will replace the unit without questions, but you pay for the shipping to them, and that can be pricey for non-US folks.


I doubt the fault rate is 1% considering I got 2 H100s and 1 H80 for different builds and they all had the grind noise.
Fixed it temporarily by running it off a fan controller but it eventually came back a few weeks later.

I'm surprised they make anyone pay shipping considering it's within the first month of use. QC fell off since demand went up,
my previous H50 lasted for years with no issues/ noise.


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## wlw wl

That's the number they gave. Corsair rep said "below 2%" at first, then it changed to "below 1%".
What makes me wonder is that some people RMA their units 3 or 4 times in a row and still get the noise.
And "new" Hydro units (H60, H80, H100) have very much different internal design compared to the old ones with tall blocks, which were the same as Antec Kuhlers. The new Hydro has a flat BLDC + impeller assembly that allows for the lower profile of the unit, but also is the source of all the problems with noise.
I tried contacting CoolIt directly, but they told me to direct all inquiries to Corsair, as expected.

PathOfTheRighteousMan - glad to hear it worked for you. And yes, even the once rock-solid Corsair PSUs have degraded in quality a lot. Even the very high priced HX and AX series have issues common among cheap, low-quality PSUs, something that should never happen with this price tag. I had to replace an HX850 myself, because when switching it on, it was triggering a 10A circuit breaker on 230V... And both the old one and the replacement whine like little b***es on standby. These are made by Seasonic, I believe. My old-ish OCZ for a quarter of that price is 10 times better in almost every way.

I'll make the note that if anyone is willing to donate a (faulty) H60, H80 or H100 to science and well-being of others, I will gladly investigate the cause and find a fix for the problem.


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## Tslm

My h60 has made a scratchy HDD noise since I first got it. Its pretty soft but its audible. A friend who bought an h60 around the same time as I did also has the exact same noise.

I know somebody who purchased 2 H80s - one didn't come with the correct amount of screws, the other had a fan that had its PWM feature not working, ie it ran at full blast no matter what. Their QC is pretty awful at the moment

Also, RE the grinding noise, I've seen people suggest that some units come with slightly less coolant than they should and that the pump at full speed works to quickly in such cases creating the noise. Not sure if its accurate or not though


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## wlw wl

The stock fans aren't PWM-regulated, they are regular 3-pin fans. Also the controller on H80/H100 has a 4-pin connector for compatibility reasons, but isn't a PWM controller, just a voltage regulator.


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## Muttley916

OP Thanks! .... I just did the 1n4001 diode fix and it worked as described... Pump is now silent.... Now to get quieter fans lol... This is my second Hydro water cooler... I exchanged my H100 for an H80.... Same pump noise...

IN4001 diode from Radio Shack - Check
Soldering Iron - Check
Flux - Check
Heat Shrink - Check
PSU 4pin Molex Extension - Check

Note: Remember to note which direction the silver polarity mark on diode from pic in this thread.

Rattle HDD noise eliminated from Hydro Series Pump - Priceless

Thanks Again!
-Mutt


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## wlw wl

My pleasure, mate!

And indeed, like I said in the OP, just mind the polarity - the side where the stripe is has to be facing away from the PSU if you solder it into +12V wire.


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## TulipVorlax

Hi,

In the past few weeks, i've ordered many parts at my local shop, i went there at least 3 times to get them all, the last time was past tuesday.
I came back home with my new GTX560 and a Corsair H80 cooling system.
I had a hard time setting up the H80 (i would have needed a third hand), but when i was finished with it i've putted in my new GC, reconnected all wired and putted my case back at it place, connected it and...
I was really disapointed to hear a sound like as if one of the new fans had problem.

Later i was so releived to discover it wasn't the graphic card fans. But discovering that it was the watercooling pump wasn't either a good news.
I went right away on Google typing "H80 noise" (or to tell the thruth, i began searching in french, wich is my first language).
It didn't take long to stumble on complaints of many users on the official forum.

But what was chocking me the most in this is that i've buyed that thing because i was advised to by my reseller (i wanted a normal processor fan).
So i contacted them with a link to the Corsair forums and all they replied to me is "we can't RMA it because there's a red paper in the package that say you have to do it directly with Corsair" and "we sell dozen of thoses per weeks and we never heard anyone had any problem with it".

Today i filled in the RMA form on Corsair website.
But i dont think i want to continue on that path because i think it will cost me to much to send it back to Corsair and get another noisy pump from them.

So, i think the only solution is the voltage reduction molex pass-through.
I was unable to find a shop selling the proper molex pass-through.
So, if you're willing to, maybe you could make one for me ?

I suppose we need to exchange private messages and email so you get all needed informations and i can send some money by PayPal or something.

Thanks.


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## wlw wl

Sure that's not a problem, I've already got like 12 people from OCN on the list for this batch.

While I can give you no guarantee that it will work for you, the success rate is very high (about 80%) and it's much cheaper than RMA for us in Europe so it's worth a try IMO.

Drop me a PM with your full address.


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## Pellum

I started to write a pm about this but I decided to make my first open post here instead.

I recieved my cable today and my H100 pump is now totally silent and I have had it running now for a few hours and haven't noticed any difference in temperatures compared to before.

So I would like to thank wlw wl for all his work and his kind spirit to help others. I can warmly recommend anyone who experience the same problems with their pumps to contact him if you like to have this problem fixed.

Corsair should hire him!









Thanks again for all the help. I'm forever grateful!








Cheers from Sweden!








/Per


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## wlw wl

That's great to hear, buddy









Worth noting, it took only 3 days to get to Germany, Sweden and Netherlands, actually two days, because I posted it Tuesday afternoon so it must have left on Wednesday. That's pretty quick









Side note, so far the adapters I've sent (not counting those that people made themselves and they worked) have worked - made the pump completely silent - in 88,5% of the cases


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## benfica101

hi mate i currently bought a H80 I'm getting pump rattling noise i did a 7v mod but it was to slow to cool the cpu.
I would gladly buy an adapter from you.

Send me a private message we can organize through there.


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## Fatality_

My h100 made a grinding noise as well when I first got it. It's been a little over a month now and it doesn't happen anymore so it was probably just an air bubble in the pump that finally worked it's way out.

For those of you that just bought an h80/h100 and you hear a little noise coming from the pump just give it a couple weeks before you go out and buy adapters and what-not because it could just be a little air.


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## benfica101

ok yeah i read on forum that by tapping on the hoses can help, i heard a couple of bubbles get passed though the pump. But still noise persists i'll give it a month see if it stops
thanks for your advice


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## wlw wl

I think that if it were air bubbles, slowing down the pump wouldn't work to begin with, at least I don't see a reasonable explanation to this. Sure, in some cases it may be air bubble, and in these cases slowing down the pump does not help, but in most cases it does.

ED: cases, cases, cases... poor vocabulary is poor


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## ilikepie45290

I'd personally like to thank wlw for the voltage dropper. I really recommend this if anyone is having a pump-grinding sound from your Corsair coolers.

I experienced similar problems with everyone with my h80 pump making an HDD-like scratching sound. Corsair advised me to leave the case on its side and let the air bubbles be slowly removed from the pump. We'll i've been waiting for over a month now and nothing worked, so I decided to go with the voltage dropper fix. Here's a before and after video.

Delivery was extremely quick, shipped out last tuesday from Poland, arrived in California today (monday) Thanks a bunch!


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## wlw wl

Hey friend, that's beautiful!

The noise is super irritating because while it's not very loud, it can be heard over anything else and is quite disturbing.
I'm glad it worked for you so well.









And that's a nice PC too









For some folks the effect isn't so dramatic, the noise is lessened but not completely gone.
I've analyzed the internals of the Hydro series units and I see a couple of points for improvement, in particular one that could fix this problem once and for all.
I'd need one of those units that I can't sacrifice for testing but that I can't do so theories will remain theories.
I don't know however why Corsair hasn't officially addressed this noise issue yet...


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## Pellum

A small update.

I've been running with the dropper connected for 4 days now and it is still oh so wonderfully quiet!









Although I don't have a fancy video like ilikepie45290 does here is a before and after image of the temps of the CPU in idle mode.

The text is in swedish though.









Before
http://i42.tinypic.com/29ft8j5.jpg

After 4 days.
http://i41.tinypic.com/10hm5tu.jpg

So huge thanks again to wlw wl for all the help!









Cheers!








/Per


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## Psyten

I just bought an h80 pump 2 days ago and got that horrible grinding noise

im glad i came here and after reading this thread a few taps on one of the hose fixed it right up

air i guess

so anyway just signed up to say thank you


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## Jras

I gotta thank my lucky stars, got a H100 and dont have that problem (knock on wood it does not happen)


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## wlw wl

My pleasure, guys


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## bwebmasta

I have had my H100 for about 3 weeks now, no grind yet but I will stay posted. If it does happen, I will PM you on the fix.


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## Lutinmalin

I own the H100 with the grinding noise
First I tried what's suggested on corsair forums which is laying the computer on its side for a while and gentle hits on the pump and tubes in case its because of air.
I noticed that the pump was quiet when the computer was down on its side but as soon as it was back to normal position the pump was back to the grinding noise.

I RMA'd the H100

Received the second one a few days ago, same grinding noise, and again no noise when computer on its side (I'm starting to think it was designed and tested only in that position before going retail







)

Today I tried the diode fix, which dropped the RPM from 2163 to 1953 but it didn't go quiet like other peoples here.









Just got a 2nd RMA approved (fortunately I don't pay shipping for RMA with NCIX).

I don't mind doing RMAs as I still have the cooling that came with the cpu and as long as I don't pay for shipping (thanks to NCIX) but it's a bit a pain in the a.. to get the radiator in and out of the case everytime.

I wish the next one will be better or that at least the diode fix will make it quiet, I like the look of the H100 in my case.

BTW Thanks to wlw wl for sharing its knowledge !


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## wlw wl

Hopefully you'll get a more civilized unit this time


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## biatche

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muttley916*
> 
> OP Thanks! .... I just did the 1n4001 diode fix and it worked as described... Pump is now silent.... Now to get quieter fans lol... This is my second Hydro water cooler... I exchanged my H100 for an H80.... Same pump noise...
> IN4001 diode from Radio Shack - Check
> Soldering Iron - Check
> Flux - Check
> Heat Shrink - Check
> PSU 4pin Molex Extension - Check
> Note: Remember to note which direction the silver polarity mark on diode from pic in this thread.
> Rattle HDD noise eliminated from Hydro Series Pump - Priceless
> Thanks Again!
> -Mutt


Culprit: Intel Water cooler's pump (by asetek)

Soldering Iron: Hakko FX-888 - Check
Flux: Flux Pen - Check

PSU 4pin Molex Extension - Gotta find one.

I do not know much about electronics. I will purchase enough to make 3 various cables of diff diodes. How much does 1N4001 reduce? and how much do the others reduce? I want one that'll reduce less while the other reduces more so that I can choose optimally.

1N4001 -- (unsure of good brands for diodes) Please suggest: http://my.element14.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=2105+203047&Ntk=gensearch&Ntt=1N4001&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial
Heat Shrink -- (unsure of size, type, and everything actually) Please suggest: http://my.element14.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=2105+204365&Ntk=gensearch&Ntt=heat+shrink&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&No=0&getResults=true&appliedparametrics=true&locale=en_MY&divisionLocale=en_MY&catalogId=&skipManufacturer=false&skipParametricAttributeId=&prevNValues=2105+204365&filtersHidden=false&appliedHidden=false&autoApply=false&originalQueryURL=%2Fjsp%2Fsearch%2Fbrowse.jsp%3FN%3D2105%2B204365%26Ntk%3Dgensearch%26Ntt%3Dheat%2Bshrink%26Ntx%3Dmode%2Bmatchallpartial%26No%3D0%26getResults%3Dtrue%26appliedparametrics%3Dtrue%26locale%3Den_MY%26divisionLocale%3Den_MY%26catalogId%3D%26skipManufacturer%3Dfalse%26skipParametricAttributeId%3D%26prevNValues%3D2105%2B204365

(it has to be purchased from this site as I live in malaysia)

Thanks


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## wlw wl

Can you show me some photos of that cooler?
If it's a different make, it might have a different problem and this fix could not work with it.
If it's a tall, round block, it might have a loose shaft like the Antec Kuhlers, if so you might want to start with the magnet fix for that.
Take as small, strong magnet - like one of those rare-earth magnets - and place it on the top (there the logo is) and move it around, you might find a spot which makes it stop rattling.

As for the diodes, definitely Vishay is a good brand, but any diode that is marked 1N4001 must have the same characteristics so it really doesn't matter.

Hestchrink - 4mm or 5mm with 2:1 ratio, color is up to you. 3mm might not pass over the diode and if you get bigger than 5mm, it will not shrink enough to catch 18 AWG wire, unless you find one with a higher ratio, like 3:1 or 4:1.


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## biatche

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/08/intel-thermal-solution-rts2011lc-review/1

powered by the motherboard
no power molex

it's made by asetek, and if im not wrong, corsair Hydro products are made by asetek too.

i thought we'll be looking at the same mod. hmm


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## wlw wl

Corsair Hydro coolers H60, H80 and H100 are made by CoolIT Systems and it's a different design.

Older Corsair Hydro coolers, such as the H50 and H70, were I believe made by Asetek, and were the tall-block type units, like Antec Kuhler.

There the problem was with the impeller's shaft, which could be addressed bu either a magnet or a heatshrinking the shaft itself, the latter meaning you have to take the pump apart.


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## biatche

Mind providing me an understanding as to why there's this rattling sound? I don't get it at all. It does appear that almost every brand suffers this problem.


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## PathOfTheRighteousMan

I got lucky with my third H100, no noise at all. Well, when the block is upside down on a GPU that is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *biatche*
> 
> Mind providing me an understanding as to why there's this rattling sound? I don't get it at all. It does appear that almost every brand suffers this problem.


The pump is resonating noise throughout the case. That's one explaination. The fix is to fit it tighter. Another is that air might be trapped in the system. Which would be possible with a closed loop.


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## wlw wl

If we're talking about the tall-block coolers, then I think the problem was/is that the impeller's shaft is loose in its bearings and it literally rattles.

As for the flat Corsairs units, they have so many problems that I wouldn't know where to begin, but the rattling specifically is hard to explain and investigate, I believe it's either a mechanical problem with the sleeve bearing or a resonance in BLDC windings caused by the PWM signal and the frequency they chose for it. I could confirm that, but like I said, I don't have a unit to dissect, I designed the diode mod on a cooler that had to live and gathered the rest of the knowledge from my own research, supported by detailed photos of the unit's internals provided by a friend.

If you're interested in more details, you'll find them here:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=106031&page=2
starting from post #26.

If anyone was willing to donate an H60/H80/H100 for science, I would gladly apply the findings.
Not many volunteers, eh?


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## biatche

I'm not absorbing this well enough (I do not have good knowledge of physics), so in my case -- Intel RTS2011LC (made by asetek) this mod wouldn't apply?

I'd need to do something else? Magnet / heatshrinking shaft? I thought I was closing in on a solution here.. now I just feel further away lol.


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## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benfica101*
> 
> ok yeah i read on forum that by tapping on the hoses can help, i heard a couple of bubbles get passed though the pump. But still noise persists i'll give it a month see if it stops
> thanks for your advice


I used to give this advice out back when I had my H50.

I also used to say to make sure you tighten the screws evenly. I once had my H50 making weird noises because one screw was not as tight as the other screws. Not only did it fix the noise issue, but helped my temps slightly.


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## wlw wl

I'm afraid I can't help you any further because I do not know the internals of those tall-block pumps.

Whenever I'm searching for more in-depth information on the new Hydro series, all I keep finding are my own posts.
You're in a more comfortable situation as there are threads here and resources on the Internet on the Antec Kuhler units for example, which I believe are similar in construction to yours.

Try here for example:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1243054/antec-kuhler-620-rattling-issues-are-there-antec-reps-here

I have once seen a thread, I believe it was here on OCN too, where the OP showed how to heatshrink the shaft to prevent the noise, also the magnet solution was shown.
Maybe it was in The Mod thread?


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## wkndplaya

Thanks a lot for this fix wlw, I applied it and my case is now dead silent. It's amazing how Corsair still continues to ignore this.


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## axipher

I just finally ran my H80 I got back from RMA, the new one does the same thing, so I might have to look in to this fix, I'm not paying $30 in shipping again to get back a unit that does the same thing.


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## wlw wl

I think that they fully cover shipping costs on subsequent RMAs, that is if you chose to have it replaced directly by Corsair.
Having said that, well, that's exactly the problem they completely ignore that it's not a unit fault but a design fault - they must have already lost thousands of dollars on these pointless H60, H80 and H100 RMAs but they continue to give the silent treatment anyway.

wkndplaya - enjoy your cooler


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## axipher

Well I just submitted another RMA request, I just feel like pushing for a full refund at this point and building a custom WC loop.


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## wlw wl

The problem with H100 is that it's very close to being overpriced.
If you buy one and it works, fine.
If you however buy 4 decent fans to do p/p on it, let's say Gentle Typhoons, or you have a fault and you need to pay for the RMA, you're paying for H100 as much as for XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit, which is in each and every possible way superior to the H100. Then you have to say to yourself "Damn! I should've gone with that in the first place!", don't you...


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## CHRISOD

My H80 has the annoying grinding/HDD sound. It's the loudest thing in my case at idle. I tried a mate's H100 and the pump on that is practically silent compared to my H80, can only really hear it if I put my ear right up to it.

I saw your thread and decided to connect my H80 to a fan controller, but made no difference in sound, was still grinding and turned off around 1800rpm. Tried tilting case, leaving on side etc. no difference.

I might just buy an Antec 920 instead because I don't want to pay for RMA to corsair and still have a high chance the returned one will have the same problem.


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## wlw wl

What do you mean by "turned off"?


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## CHRISOD

When i lowered the volts on the H80 when plugged into the fan controller, I could see the pump RPM in bios and when it went down to about 1800RPM it would show up as N/A, my cpu temps started rising fast and most importantly, the H80 when silent.


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## wlw wl

Did the lights go off too? That's strange, because you can run the pump at 1700RPM and lower, maybe it's the fan controller's fault, it cut off the power completely.


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## gregoire

Sorry for the offtopic (little bit) question : I have a Zalman ZM-MFC3 rheobus on which I use the three 3 pins to control my fans) and I have the PWM free...

Is there a way to use this for the H100 (and whith which cable) ?

Thank you very much


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## wlw wl

You can't use the PWM output for the H100, but you can use one of the 3-pin outputs if you use a 3-pin to 4-pin Molex adapter such as this:
http://imagescl.cyberguys.com/images/prod_images/p3317a.jpg

Mind you that the 3-pin connector is the opposite you would use to power a 3-pin fan from a 4-pin Molex.

The Zalman ZM-MFC3 has a max output of 0,7A so don't go crazy with the fans you might have connected to the H100.


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## gregoire

Sorry I wasn't clear : i don't have any fan connected to the H100, they are all connected to the ZM-MFC3.

Anyway, thank for the clarification that I couldn't use the ZM-MFC3 to connect my H100 on it's PWM output and still read the rpm.


----------



## wlw wl

H100 as well as H80 and I'd say H60 too, must all be powered by a DC power supply. You can tweak the voltage if it's rattling, but you can't modulate the pulse width on the 3-pin +12V line (as you could do with a normal 3-pin fan, but RPM reading would be messed up), and if you connected it to a 4-pin PWM header, it would just be powered from +12V and the fourth pin would be floating in the air.


----------



## gregoire

Oh great, so if I understand you right, I really could connect the H100 to the PWM output of the ZM-MFC3, only problem now is to find the "real" way to do it.
The ZM-MFC3 is rated up to 11V output, so I must be safe with that kind of power regarding the grinding noise of the pump ?
(I have almost finished my build, but I miss the CPU... waiting for 3770k).

If by chance I am not affected by the noise's problem of the pump, would it be right to connect the H100 to the Zalman's C3 cable :

H100's female 3 pins (only sensor connected) <-> male 3 pins (all connected) to
a) female 3 pins (all connected) <-> motherboard
b) female 4 pins (ground and sensor connected) <-> ZM-MFC3

In the manual they connect the CPU the other way (4 pins to MB and 3 pins to MFC3), which I could also do (my motherboard has 3 pins and 4 pins CPU's fan).

And if my H100 is affected with the noise problem could I find an adapter male 5.25 molex (+12v and ground) AND 3 pins female (sensor) to 3 pins female (all connected) ?
(Not certain my Asrock Z77 Professional could deliver the proper voltage but it might).

Thank you very much for all the info !!!


----------



## wlw wl

If your H100 proves to be okay, then you can connect it as intended - 3-pin sensor wire to the CPU_FAN header, 4-pin Molex to the PSU.

The 11V rating is for the 3-pin outputs of the Zalman when it's set to 100%. The PWM output always provides full voltage, only the PWM signal on the fourth wire changes. The question is if the PWM output has 11V as the 3-pins, or is directly connected to the PSU and has full 12V. If it has 11V you could use that to connect the H100, using only the GND and +12V wire (and maybe the RPM wire), not caring about the fourth PWM wire at all.

There are 4-pin Moles (5,25") to 3-pin female fan adapters like the one I posted an image of. Normal adapters have a male 3-pin header which you can connect a fan to.

11V would make the pump run at about 1800RPM, this shouldn't affect the temps too much if at all, but you have to always check that.


----------



## gregoire

Great, only problem is the picture you posted don't "mix" the two connectors of the H100 (maybe something like that don't exist ?).
Let's hope I will be fine without anything more.

Another time, thank you very much for all your information !!!


----------



## wlw wl

I don't understand what do you want to mix.

The 3-pin connector coming from the H100 is only an RPM signal that you plug into the CPU-FAN header regardless of where do you choose to power the unit from. It doesn't do anything but suppresses BIOS errors regarding the lack of a CPU fan.
You're only interested in the 4-pin 5,25" Molex connector, that has 2 wires in it, coming from the H100. The adapter on the picture that I've linked allows you to plug that 5,25" connector into any fan header, be it on motherboard or a 3rd party fan controller. Then you can tweak the voltage a little.


----------



## gregoire

I wanted to mix in order to make the H100 a regular 3 pins "fan" such that I could power it from the MFC3 in the only available slot I have, but it's true I could power it from another fan power from the motherboard on which I could set the voltage I need, so now it's just a matter to find your cable in Switzerland 

Thank you.


----------



## tboerdijk

I upgraded my system yesterday and also included a Corsair H80 with two Gentle Typhoons.
The fans are dead-silent, but the pump is making a sound like a freezer when it's working (I don't know a better way to describe it).
It's louder than my harddrives, which are 5400 rpm.
Would this fix help with my problem? I'm really bad with electrical wiring and stuff like that, so could you maybe put me on your list for the next batch? (if there is going to be one)
You should make a donate-button btw


----------



## wlw wl

Yes, it should help, shoot me a PM with your address.

About the donate button - I don't do this for the money, I charge minimum for the fast shipping and the parts, sometimes someone throws a little extra and that's very nice of them and I really appreciate this, but if you want to donate, there's plenty of opportunities better than this one, where you can actually help someone, like kids.


----------



## tboerdijk

I got your PM, but I can't reply.
I actually don't have my fans connected to the pump, but to my motherboard. Would that make a difference to the required voltage dropper?


----------



## wlw wl

No, what matters is that the pump with the fans connected to it cannot exceed a current draw of 1A combined, if they do, I make a customized adapter with two diodes, that can handle 2A.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> No, what matters is that the pump with the fans connected to it cannot exceed a current draw of 1A combined, if they do, I make a customized adapter with two diodes, that can handle 2A.


Hey wlw wl,

If I have the H100 with four fans connected to the pump, (Noctua NF-F12's) I would need a custom two diode correct? I think I would like to try out your solution to see if the pump will have less noise. I will PM my address to you...thanks in advance. BTW- I will send a donation( to WishKids), after reading on Corsair's forum and this one, you have really put in some time and effort into this issue. Corsair should have resolved this problem a long time ago and at least acknowledged this is an issue.


----------



## wlw wl

If this is your fan:

http://chlodzenie.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-W-pełnej-krasie_2-576x470.jpg

then 0,05A times four is only 0,2A so you're well safe with a normal, single diode, 1A adapter. Of course I make those 2A per request, but it's a bit more bulky, but on the other hand more future-proof if you pick up four high RPM fans that draw more than 0,2A each...


----------



## sjulven

Hey. I have a faulty h100 and ordered myself a couple of 1n4001. I think I need 2 because I have 4 akasa apache fans which requires 0,33A at max. My question is: should I solder the 1n4001's to the wire or is it good enough to just stuff the ends in the wire and tape over them with electric tape?

PS: creds to you wlw wl. You seem like a great guy and I am really thankful that you take the time to help with the h100 problem =)


----------



## wlw wl

If you don't want to solder, you can align the two diodes side by side, with the stripe facing in the same direction on both of them, then twist their leads together. Then, if you have heatshrink, you can twist those franken-leads with the wire and heatshrink it. That should make a good and strong connection.
In the late MKII version of the droppers I opted out of soldering and I am crimping the diode itself, with the leads folded in half.

And thank you for your kind words


----------



## sjulven

TY for the fast answer =) I plan on soldering it, I just don't have the equipment available as of now and really want to see if the fix helps







So I think I will do as you say and then solder it later, to make it as durable as possible =) I'm so excited to see if it works!


----------



## odinkudo

I believe the H40's have the same pump and pump design but use a non controllable fan an aluminum cold plate and rubber hoses instead of the plastic that the H60's and up use... might be more financially advantageous to deconstruct one of them over a more expensive larger model. I know they rattle too as I have one in my vintage kit I've been putting together that sounds kind of like my grandma's old chrysler. Perhaps you've already disassembled one IDK I've read all 7 pages but I don't think I retained all of it, lol.


----------



## wlw wl

I don't think that H40 is in the same "family" and it's a different design, one that I know nothing of. On the other hand, at this point I'm quite familiar with the design of H60/H80/H100, especially the electronics used.
If I was going to buy one unit for the tests, I'd go for the H80, because part of the problem lies in the fan controller.

But I'm not going to do those test as I don't have the budget to go and buy a H80 or H100 to investigate this, Corsair isn't willing to provide a unit known to be faulty too, they prefer to send heaps of hardware to modders so their logo is displayed.
I've described the whats and whys in details on the Corsair forums, so maybe someday someone will have the strength and will to test these... and a unit to spare.


----------



## Dutambalu

Hey wlw wl, I have a set of two Noctua NF-F12 (http://chlodzenie.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-W-pe%C5%82nej-krasie_2-576x470.jpg) as you posted, and 2 stock corsair fans. The 4 fans are connected to the cooler block and the fan controller connected to my mobo. Its making a ever so lightly HDD grinding kind of noise, which isnt audible but can hear it if you listen closely, or if the fans are ramped up. Im not sure if the h100 noise problem was really bad as people would say and could hear it clearly, but i would like it to be as quiet as possible. Which connector would you recommend, and would the shipping cost me an arm and a leg since i live in the USA? And also with the pump rpm dropping, would it effect my temperatures?

Good job on helping out the fellow h100 owners as well


----------



## sjulven

It worked!!!







Pump now at between 1890 and 1950 with no noise at all ^^


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dutambalu*
> 
> Its making a ever so lightly HDD grinding kind of noise, which isnt audible but can hear it if you listen closely, or if the fans are ramped up. Im not sure if the h100 noise problem was really bad as people would say and could hear it clearly, but i would like it to be as quiet as possible. Which connector would you recommend, and would the shipping cost me an arm and a leg since i live in the USA? And also with the pump rpm dropping, would it effect my temperatures?


If the noise is subtle, then it should be more likely to stop with the adapter. You can safely use a 1N4001 adapter like the ones I make. The stock fans have a rating o 0,35A but the seem to only draw a third of that at full speed. Even if they did draw 0,35A each, you'd still be well under 1A with all your 4 fans.
The adapter plus shipping (priority + express) would cost you $8 USD, ETA 7 days. Usually it doesn't affect the temperatures at all and some people even report that the temperatures are better once the noise is gone. Worst case scenario is that you'd see a 1-2 degrees more in stress.

sjulven - great to hear that


----------



## Hellknight

Dropping by to report another faulty H80 unit in Nagoya - Japan.
The funniest part is that I was offered to pay a little bit extra for a custom warranty but instead I choosed to save some bucks and went with the "maker warranty".
Haven't tried to RMA but is probably not even worth the money.
My rad also came with some bent fins, ****en chinese fabs.

Corsair you can screw me once, but not twice.

-Not buying Corsair crap never ever again.


----------



## djriful

My H100 pump noise is fine except the last fan connector isn't working properly. It will stop spinning at some point and left out 3 fans spinning only. Defective?

I didn't try to RMA due I only use 2 fans. Anyway, should I RMA it either way? If I do I cannot use my PC for while. =(


----------



## axipher

Wow, submitted a second RMA on the H80 they returned to me that was brand new and made the grinding as well, within hours I had a pre-paid shipping label in my email inbox. Corsair is absolutely amazing with customer service.

As much as we knock them for having bad products that need RMA's, they take care of their customers


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Wow, submitted a second RMA on the H80 they returned to me that was brand new and made the grinding as well, within hours I had a pre-paid shipping label in my email inbox. Corsair is absolutely amazing with customer service.
> As much as we knock them for having bad products that need RMA's, they take care of their customers


This is awesome on the CS part, but the QC is what seems to be the suck. Instead of doing hundreds to thousands of RMA's...Corsair should recognize this is an issue and fix it. RMA's cost time and money on both ends of the customer and Corsair...


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwebmasta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Wow, submitted a second RMA on the H80 they returned to me that was brand new and made the grinding as well, within hours I had a pre-paid shipping label in my email inbox. Corsair is absolutely amazing with customer service.
> As much as we knock them for having bad products that need RMA's, they take care of their customers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is awesome on the CS part, but the QC is what seems to be the suck. Instead of doing hundreds to thousands of RMA's...Corsair should recognize this is an issue and fix it. RMA's cost time and money on both ends of the customer and Corsair...
Click to expand...

Yeah, I do hate having to pay shipping that first time, so at least they cover all shipping after the first RMA. I'll be shipping this one out tonight with the Pre-paid Shipping Label. If the next one doesn't work, I won't be looking for an RMA, but a refund and investing in a custom loop for this rig.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwebmasta*
> 
> This is awesome on the CS part, but the QC is what seems to be the suck. Instead of doing hundreds to thousands of RMA's...Corsair should recognize this is an issue and fix it. RMA's cost time and money on both ends of the customer and Corsair...


the only problematic product they have are the h80 and h100,


----------



## wlw wl

Hellknight - if you chose to RMA, you'd have to send it to Hong Kong at your own expense.

djriful - faulty fan controller is a basis for RMA, you could speak with the customer service and request an advanced RMA, then you'll get the replacement before you send your faulty unit. But still you'll have to pay for one way shipping.

axipher - yes they are ever so eager to replace anything, you damage a port on case's front panel, they'll send you new panel, if they don't have the panel assembly available, they will offer to replace the whole case... But that's one thing, and sweeping problems under the carpet is another.

I had a funny thing with them, I was advised by a rep to submit and RMA for some parts that were missing (H100 mounting screws, 600T screws), they sent a courier to me with a pre-paid shipping label and the guy was like "I was supposed to pick up a package to Netherlands" and I said "Wrong number, sorry to waste your time, Suzanna..."... well not what I actually said, but in the confusion and misunderstanding instead of sending me the screws, they paid for a courier to pick up a unit I never mean to replace. Makes me wonder if the costs of all those eager RMAs aren't affecting the quality and QC in the first place, if so, that's a vicious circle.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Hellknight - if you chose to RMA, you'd have to send it to Hong Kong at your own expense.
> 
> djriful - faulty fan controller is a basis for RMA, you could speak with the customer service and request an advanced RMA, then you'll get the replacement before you send your faulty unit. But still you'll have to pay for one way shipping.
> 
> axipher - yes they are ever so eager to replace anything, you damage a port on case's front panel, they'll send you new panel, if they don't have the panel assembly available, they will offer to replace the whole case... But that's one thing, and sweeping problems under the carpet is another.


Well I'm hoping the next H80 will be fully functional, I haven't given up on Corsair yet. Worst case then I might just have to try to *fix* the H80 and just run it at a reduced voltage.


----------



## wlw wl

I haven't given up on them too, I'm just more cautious. I'm no more "If it's Corsair, it has to be awesome", I'm more "Corsair RAM, SSDs and cases are great but there the list ends".


----------



## Hellknight

Well you see, electrodomestic stuff made here in japan does not have the habit of failing nor exploding







after you turn it on.
I don't see the reason why THE HELL I have to RMA a fraking LCL unit I just popped out of the box... with bent fins 'n all....
Oh wait, it says "Made in china".... SNAP!

Seriously, did the QC team went on a suicide brigade or...?

This shouldn't be just an issue of "Oh just RMA it, they have great customer service" because in the first place, I payed for a unit that was supposed to be working A.K.A "brand NEW" and I spend time walking through the store, picking it, paying for it, installing it, etc

.....Now i have to RMA and spend MORE TIME AND MONEH on it.

No, seriously ***?


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellknight*
> 
> Well you see, electrodomestic stuff made here in japan does not have the habit of failing nor exploding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after you turn it on.
> I don't see the reason why THE HELL I have to RMA a fraking LCL unit I just popped out of the box... with bent fins 'n all....
> Oh wait, it says "Made in china".... SNAP!
> Seriously, did the QC team went on a suicide brigade or...?
> This shouldn't be just an issue of "Oh just RMA it, they have great customer service" because in the first place, I payed for a unit that was supposed to be working A.K.A "brand NEW" and I spend time walking through the store, picking it, paying for it, installing it, etc
> .....Now i have to RMA and spend MORE TIME AND MONEH on it.
> No, seriously ***?


your story doesn't make sense though, if you opened the box and saw the bent fins etc and don't like it, why bother installing it? and why rma it if you can just return it to the store you bought it from?


----------



## Masterchief3k

My H60 grinds on and off at 100% at 90% it still does it, but less. At 80%, it doesn't grind at all. Using motherboard CPU fan header and BIOS control.


----------



## wlw wl

I understand your point.

My interest in the essence of this thread started when I picked up the gear for a client PC build. More than a half of that was Corsair stuff.
The 600T case's screws were rusted out of the box and the case's fan controller was missing a fan connector. The HX850 PSU was triggering a circuit breaker almost every time it was being switched on, and it was making a lot of noise on standby. And then there was the H100, which was rattling like crazy and it's mounting thumbscrews didn't have the screwdriver slots so it couldn't be mounted properly. And on top of that was the fact that the H100 radiator wouldn't fit into the 600T with the fans on the inside, so I had to cut the metal to make two Corsair pieces fit together, which were supposed to be fully compatible to begin with.

So I replaced the PSU, but not with Corsair (too expensive) but with the retailer, the H100 gave birth to the diode mod, and the problems with the case were either cut out or hidden.

But that was... let's say unfortunate, to have so many problems with parts in one build, made by one company, and not some ****ty company, but one that was always the benchmark of quality. So QC theory or rather lack thereof is quite likely.


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> your story doesn't make sense though, if you opened the box and saw the bent fins etc and don't like it, why bother installing it? and why rma it if you can just return it to the store you bought it from?


I took time to patiently straight the fins with a flat small screwdriver.
Then I installed it (Inside a silver stone ps07 case already populated, kind of epic)
When I bought it I choosed not to pay for the store's warranty, only the makers warranty. They'll just point out that red paper.

Now, yes I can try and take it off, pack it back patiently again and talk to them.... but all of it is taking time.

My point is, "Why has people to bother with all of this having payed for stuff that should be working on the first place?".

Yes, there's sometimes defective products that have to be replaced but doing a brief google search on this matter shows easily this is not an isolated issued but LOTS.

On a side note, I was runing an H50 on an AMD965BE until now wich never had any problem whatsoever.(?)


----------



## wlw wl

H50, H70, and I think H40 too, were made by different OEM and were a different design. With the new coolers, they made some pretty big sacrifices to make the block a low profile as possible. And to be honest, the electronics in these units are nowhere near "high-end" or even "well thought out" and that bothers me the most. Pretty package, lousy contents.


----------



## Hellknight

Who's making Antec units?


----------



## djriful

Most Corsair Hydro series are made by this Canadian company CoolIT System.

Sorry Corsair for exposing your brands... ops

http://coolitsystems.com/


----------



## wlw wl

I think Asetek, and they made the older Corsair hydro units too (H40, H50, H70).

H60, H80 and H100 are made by CoolIT, if you remove the top cover (with the button) you'll see that they signed the fan controller PCB...
The "bare" product is called ECO II ALC and can be found here:
http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.php/products/cpu-coolers/eco-ii-alc-cpu-cooler.html


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


> I think Asetec, and they made the older Corsair hydro units too (H40, H50, H70).
> 
> H60, H80 and H100 are made by CoolIT, if you remove the top cover (with the button) you'll see that they signed the fan controller PCB...
> The "bare" product is called ECO II ALC and can be found here:
> http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.php/products/cpu-coolers/eco-ii-alc-cpu-cooler.html


Interesting, brief "googling' shows the exact problem happening with Kuhler 920's.

.........In a much smaller scale though.


----------



## wlw wl

Yup that's right, Antec Kuhler's are made by Asetek, so were older Corsair Hydro coolers. Now Corsair's OEM is CoolIT.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellknight*
> 
> I took time to patiently straight the fins with a flat small screwdriver.
> Then I installed it (Inside a silver stone ps07 case already populated, kind of epic)
> When I bought it I choosed not to pay for the store's warranty, only the makers warranty. They'll just point out that red paper.
> Now, yes I can try and take it off, pack it back patiently again and talk to them.... but all of it is taking time.
> My point is, "Why has people to bother with all of this having payed for stuff that should be working on the first place?".
> Yes, there's sometimes defective products that have to be replaced but doing a brief google search on this matter shows easily this is not an isolated issued but LOTS.
> On a side note, I was runing an H50 on an AMD965BE until now wich never had any problem whatsoever.(?)


you don't have to buy any kind of warranty to be able to return a defective product, you can return it and get a new one without buying anything extra


----------



## Hellknight

Second day of H80.

Turned on the pc and got the "No CPU fan message" at first.

After one reset, everything was back o.k.

If i connect the fans directly to the pump they wont spin.
I have the 3 pin connector directly on the board and the molex plug is connected using a molex to 3 pin adapter to one of the "Chassis" board pin.
The fans are not the original ones but Gentle typhoon AP-15's.

Any idead? -Is this thing deffinitely malfuntioning (Besides of the rattling noise)?


----------



## wlw wl

Looks like the fan controller circuit is playing up. Are the lights and the profile button working?


----------



## Hellknight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Looks like the fan controller circuit is playing up. Are the lights and the profile button working?


Got a new unit, the other one had a faulty fan controller and only god knows what else.

This one also sounds but to much less extent. I'm wondering if the pipes that go attached to the rad have to be higher than the pump itself.

This is a pic of my setup:



My concern with flipping the rad is that the 5970 runs HELLA hot and the barbs and upper part of the reservoir get very close to it.


----------



## wlw wl

Nope, rotating the rad 180 degrees would be a bad idea, because any air would escape the rad and go to the pump. You want all air to be in the rad.


----------



## TulipVorlax

Hi,

My friends is an artist that do 2D and 3D stuff.
Some days ago, he was doing a 3D render on all four cores of his processor. The temps went up to 80° C.
I said to him that it seems to me it was high. Plus, i think that the processor was reducing it's speed to prevent the temps from going way higher, or so.
So, his 3D render would have taken a bit more time than it should and at a higher temps than ideal, maybe.
He ask me to order another H80 (maybe i conviced him to).
I've done so around monday and today we've installed it in his computer.

I'm "sorry" to report that... we don't hear any pump noise coming from _his_ H80.

I dont know if it's a good thing but i've set the pump block at 90° so that the entry and exit point of the liquid is on the top of it.
Anyone know if it could cause problem ?

Another thing i have to report is that some of the included components seems differents than the one included in my package.
Maybe it's a new revision of the product ?


----------



## wlw wl

Don't be "sorry", it's a god thing that it's problem-free









Rotating the block won't hurt the pump and with the hoses exiting upward it's probably easier for the air to escape the pump.

And what do you mean with those components, what's different?


----------



## TulipVorlax

Ok, i was finishing a reply to tell what felt different but taking a look inside my computer, i think it was just that, a feeling.
And it was wrong.
I though the tumb screws and the fan connector on the pump were different, but it's all the same.
It's my memory that failled.
Lol.

But there was a difference.
When i mounted my H80 in my computer i was alone and had some difficulties.
Today my friend help me. A third hand can be usefull.

Anyway, it restore a bit of my trust in Corsair cooling product, but not much.
It's like lottery.


----------



## Maximuscr31

2.5 months of pure silence on my H100 on medium.


----------



## wlw wl

The thumbscrews come in different flavors, some have screwdriver slots, some don't, it's either random or depends on the lot #.


----------



## gatehous3

Just ordered a H100 for my i7 3770K build. Looks to me like ill be disappointed ..... FFFFFFUUUU

Good thing I still have my Noctua NH-D14 to fall back on


----------



## wlw wl

You might be if you get a CPU with the IHS defect, other than that, don't worry too early


----------



## Jessekin32

Got my Dropper Mk II today! PC has been running for about 10 minutes (as of this post) and is SILENT! Greatest fix on the planet. Absolutely loved the note you sent with it. Thanks wlw_wl! Now I have to replace a 200mm fan because it's the loudest thing in my case xD I HIGHLY recommend this guy's fix to anyone who has the patience to wait about a week for it to get to you. +rep for your marvelous fix!

Thanks again! - Jessekin32.


----------



## bwebmasta

Well turns out, I will have to do an RMA on my H100. Bad controller plugin.. I got my Noctua NF-F12's hooked up to the controller, they all work except for the one on the far left. I plugged the fan into another port, and on one of the motherboard ports and the fan works fine. I will be contacting Corsair full haste. Sucks.


----------



## wlw wl

Jessekin32 - happy to hear that, enjoy









bwebmasta - try a firmware reset procedure and stock fans first, maybe that will save you from doing the RMA.
Did you get the adapters?


----------



## MaxFTW

How do i know if i have this noise :/

see there is a rattling noise in my case but it seems to be linked to my front fan when its on high speed


----------



## wlw wl

If you had it, you'd know









I found some sweet deals for used H80s and H100s on ebay, but US only... If I was from there, I'd be experimenting on one of them right now, but I'm not and I can't find any cheap used/broken units here


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Jessekin32 - happy to hear that, enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bwebmasta - try a firmware reset procedure and stock fans first, maybe that will save you from doing the RMA.
> Did you get the adapters?


I have been using the stock fans, on the fourth port nothing works. That was my first test, I never thought to test all 4 fan ports on the cooler until I got the Noctua's. When I changed to the Noctua's that damn loud noise from the pump is REALLY loud now. It's the loudest thing in the room, the stock Corsair fans did a pretty good job of hiding the noise. How do you do a firmware reset?

No, I did not receive the adapters yet, perhaps next week they will arrive.


----------



## thierryp77

Another satisfied customer - I received my voltage dropper (very high quality btw) and have had immediate success. My PC is as quiet as a mouse now.

A big thanks again to wlw wl.. Fantastic effort.. After 2 months of putting up with the noise, I am extremely happy.

Cheers..


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwebmasta*
> 
> How do you do a firmware reset?



Turn on the PC and either hit PAUSE/BREAK while it's POSTing, or go into the BIOS - so the PC is running, but there's no load on the CPU.
Hold down the profile change button on the cooler for about 5 seconds, release.
Let the PC run for another minute or so, then turn it off.
Press and hold the profile button for five seconds while turning the PC back on.

thierryp77 - they should have fixed it permanently long time ago... enjoy your cooler as it should be


----------



## Dutambalu

From Corsair:

1. While the computer is running, hold down the profile button for approximately five seconds
2. Wait one minute, while the unit continues to run
3. Shut down your computer
4. Press and hold the profile button for five seconds while turning on the power to your computer.


----------



## Comp4k

Just plugged in the voltage dropper- I forgot how quiet my computer can be!!! Awesome product, quality is top notch! Thank you so so so much wlw w!


----------



## wlw wl

Always good to hear it worked for another one of you guys!









I've had the noise myself and it was unbearable to the point that I couldn't wait to turn the PC off - that's a bummer.


----------



## lqvnguyen

This past weekend I purchased two H80s from Fry's Electronics in San Jose. These were from batch #12019402. Both exhibited the resonating grinding noise.

Tapping on the tubes would make it go away briefly only for the noise to eventually return. Laying the tower on its side absolutely made the noise go away--but who is going to lay their case on its side in a production environment. I stopped by Radio Shack to pick up a 1N4001 diode and slapped together an ugly but functional adapter. SILENCE IS GOLDEN. Also running it off the fan controller on the Corsair 600T drops the voltage enough to silence the pump. Nice design flaw and good job on the oversight Corsair.

Note: My PSU is outputting a measured 12.2V off the 12V+ lead.

I promptly packaged it all back up and exchanged both for two new ones from the same batch lot. The new ones were worse, as no amount of tapping the tubes would silence the grinding noise. Back to Fry's for a third round. With very little confidence in this product model, I opted to return 1 of the 2 and exchanged the second one.

The third-time exchanged H80 is from batch #11459402. So far running IBT for 24 Hours at Maximum @ 4.5GHz with 16GB of RAM--this unit is not making the loud irritating grinding noise. I don't have faith that it will continue to run silently so I am in dialogue with wlw_wl for a pair of his adapters because his adapters are so much prettier than mine.


----------



## wlw wl

Hmm so you had your unit exchanged for an older one, but happily you didn't get the noise. That's lucky!
I was hoping that the new units made after January 2012 (so lot $s 1206+) would be fixed, but they aren't apparently as there are people reporting the same problems with them.

I'll send you the adapters you requested and you'll be safe and future-proof


----------



## Comp4k

Is it ok to plug in 2 noctua p12 fans into the pump with the voltage dropper?


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Comp4k*
> 
> Is it ok to plug in 2 noctua p12 fans into the pump with the voltage dropper?


Yes it is, I received mine today. I have 4 fans doing a push-pull, and the voltage dropper is like magic. The pump is DEAD silent, going at 1956-1983 RPM from the 2093-2100 I had before. I will still have to do an RMA from looks of it, doing a firmware reset now.


----------



## bwebmasta

Here is something strange...I did the firmware reset, and either the fan on the third port won't start or the fourth. Each time I do the reset, the problem interchanges. If I use the splitter that came with the Noctua NF-F12's for two on one port, both fans work just fine.

Something is definitely not right with this unit. Thanks a million wlw wl, the voltage dropper is awesome. What the hell is wrong with Corsair, why don't they see this as an issue?


----------



## lqvnguyen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Hmm so you had your unit exchanged for an older one, but happily you didn't get the noise. That's lucky!
> I was hoping that the new units made after January 2012 (so lot $s 1206+) would be fixed, but they aren't apparently as there are people reporting the same problems with them.
> I'll send you the adapters you requested and you'll be safe and future-proof


I posted the exact post on their forum and they modified it. Nice QC on the forums but not on their products.

"Last edited by Wired; Today at 08:15 PM. Reason: nuked bit against the rules"

- The third-time exchanged H80 is from batch #11459402. So far running IBT for 24 Hours at Maximum @ 4.5GHz with 16GB of RAM--this unit is not making the loud irritating grinding noise. I don't have faith that it will continue to run silently so I am in dialogue with wlw_wl for a pair of his adapters because his adapters are so much prettier than mine. :biggrin:
+ The third-time exchanged H80 is from batch #11459402. So far running IBT for 24 Hours at Maximum @ 4.5GHz with 16GB of RAM--this unit is not making the loud irritating grinding noise. I don't have faith that it will continue to run silently.

What was wrong with saying yours are prettier than mine?


----------



## Joshua1396

Hello wlw wl

I'm currently on my phone so haven't been able to read the whole thread but I got my h100 today from the us (i live in australia) knowing of this issue and hoping that it would have been fixed by now. Unfortunately not. I have that damn annoying sound and saw your fix for it. How much would it cost to get a cable sent and how long will it take from your country. Does the adapter lower performance or should I just ram and hope for the best?

Kind regards
Joshua


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwebmasta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Comp4k*
> 
> Is it ok to plug in 2 noctua p12 fans into the pump with the voltage dropper?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it is, I received mine today. I have 4 fans doing a push-pull, and the voltage dropper is like magic. The pump is DEAD silent, going at 1956-1983 RPM from the 2093-2100 I had before. I will still have to do an RMA from looks of it, doing a firmware reset now.
Click to expand...

It is okay, but judging from the RPM, the adapter might not be dropping the full 1,0V because the fans odn' draw a lot of current at all. But if it's silent, all is well









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwebmasta*
> 
> Here is something strange...I did the firmware reset, and either the fan on the third port won't start or the fourth. Each time I do the reset, the problem interchanges. If I use the splitter that came with the Noctua NF-F12's for two on one port, both fans work just fine.
> 
> Something is definitely not right with this unit. Thanks a million wlw wl, the voltage dropper is awesome. What the hell is wrong with Corsair, why don't they see this as an issue?


You're welcome! This is indeed strange and might be a sign of faulty controller IC, if you want to bother going through the whole RMA process (time, money) then go ahead, you can request an advanced RMA if you don't want the downtime.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lqvnguyen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Hmm so you had your unit exchanged for an older one, but happily you didn't get the noise. That's lucky!
> I was hoping that the new units made after January 2012 (so lot $s 1206+) would be fixed, but they aren't apparently as there are people reporting the same problems with them.
> I'll send you the adapters you requested and you'll be safe and future-proof
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I posted the exact post on their forum and they modified it. Nice QC on the forums but not on their products.
> 
> "Last edited by Wired; Today at 08:15 PM. Reason: nuked bit against the rules"
> 
> - The third-time exchanged H80 is from batch #11459402. So far running IBT for 24 Hours at Maximum @ 4.5GHz with 16GB of RAM--this unit is not making the loud irritating grinding noise. I don't have faith that it will continue to run silently so I am in dialogue with wlw_wl for a pair of his adapters because his adapters are so much prettier than mine. :biggrin:
> + The third-time exchanged H80 is from batch #11459402. So far running IBT for 24 Hours at Maximum @ 4.5GHz with 16GB of RAM--this unit is not making the loud irritating grinding noise. I don't have faith that it will continue to run silently.
> 
> What was wrong with saying yours are prettier than mine?
Click to expand...

Well their forum rules prohibit item selling/trading and they love to use that rule, I was banned on that basis 3 times:
1st for talking about the adapters via PM,
2nd for having the "Need an adapter? PM or mail me!" in a signature,
and the latest 3rd for answering a guy who was asking about the full acrylic 600T side panel - I said that shipping costs would be monstrous and I got perm banned for that, but the ban was promptly lifted without any action from me, but instead now all my posts have to be mod-approved








So you said something about me or about the voltage dropper and apparently they decided to sweep the whole thing under the carpet, apparently ignoring the problem isn't enough for them anymore.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshua1396*
> 
> Hello wlw wl
> 
> I'm currently on my phone so haven't been able to read the whole thread but I got my h100 today from the us (i live in australia) knowing of this issue and hoping that it would have been fixed by now. Unfortunately not. I have that damn annoying sound and saw your fix for it. How much would it cost to get a cable sent and how long will it take from your country. Does the adapter lower performance or should I just ram and hope for the best?
> 
> Kind regards
> Joshua


Hey friend,

for priority + express mail, the ETA would be under 14 days and the total cost would be around $10 AUD. I don't really charge for the adapter itself, only so much to cover the cost of the parts (connectors, diode, sleeve) and the rest is shipping.
*thierryp77* is from down under as well, you might ask him how long exactly did it take for his adapter to arrive.


----------



## Joshua1396

I really appreciate your help mate! I kinda feel really disappointed and now regret my purchase. Do you think it is still worth it to keep the H100 and use the voltage dropper? I love the look and believe the performance is great but you'd think a big company like Corsair would fix their problems! I'm hoping it won't turn into a major problem that will cripple the H100. I also read online that the sound is trapped air bubbles that prevent the whole liquid moving and dont keep the h100 working correctly, is this true?

Cheers,
Joshua


----------



## wlw wl

Well it seems sometimes it is air and sometimes it isn't. If it is, the adapter sometimes doesn't help and the sound is still there.
If the pump was stronger, I think it would be able to push the air into the radiator more easily. Does the noise stop when you put the PC on its side or when you tilt it?
The adapter itself will not affect the cooler's performance and some people report that without the noise, the temperatures are actually lower.
Could a rattling pump have a shortened life span? I guess it's possible, but I wouldn't be there to see - the noise would drive me nuts long before that!

As for the H100 itself, well, the only thing better that comes to mind is a WC kit such as EK H30 or XSPC Rasa 750, but these are more expensive. But then again, they perform much better and are fully customizable.


----------



## Joshua1396

It really does suck. I haven't actually installed the kit yet cause i wanted to test it first. The noise does seem to lessen a lot when i turn the pump on its side. I'm thinking of just selling it on eBay. I am really dissapointed in Corsair, expecially when my SSD and Ram which i love are of such good quality and performance. Oh well, this happens. I'll just have to work out what to do from here...


----------



## wlw wl

So it rattles even before it's mounted in the PC? If so, it's seriously messed up, they usually start to rattle once mounted inside the PC and don't do that "in hand". Some stress on the housing or a resonance kind of thing.


----------



## toX0rz

Nice thread, props to wlw wl for his efforts.

How come the H70 isn't mentioned in the title? I've had the same grinding noise problem with the H70 until I hooked it up to the Scythe Kaze Master fan control and it works perfect now.


----------



## Joshua1396

Its not really a "rattling" more just a hard drive ticking noise. I'm just gonna sell it but now i have a bigger problem! What to buy now.. I want a cooler that looks good in my case as i love the looks of my PC. What do you recommend as the H100 was my perfect cooler, not so much now.


----------



## wlw wl

toX0rz - that's because H60, H80 and H100 are made by CoolIT.
H40, H50 and H70 on the other hand were made by Asetek (these are the same as Antec Kuhler 620 and 920).
Different designs, different internals, probably different causes. H60, H80 and H100 all use the same pump assembly and I made the diode fix first when I had a H100 that was noisy.

If the fix applies to Asetek coolers - that's great. But I have basically no knowledge about those units and the adapter wasn't designed to help them, so if it's working, it's just by chance.

Joshua1396 - apart from Antec and Corsair, there's also the new Intel integrated liquid cooling system, but I think is a variant of one of those.
Apart from EK and XSPC, I think you could get something similar from Koolance but I didn't see them in kits. And then there's the full-blown water cooling, but that's out of the picture.

Personally I love the looks of the XSPC Rasa 750 kits, it has the pump integrated in dual 5,25" reservoir, so there's 3 parts in that: CPU block, radiator, reservoir (not visible from the inside). And you can choose whether you want 120, 240 or 360 rad in RS, RX or EX variants, the RS is the thinnest of them all, something like the H100 has (thicker still).


----------



## stev067

Thanks much for the tip! I tried 1 series diode and that seemed to help, but didn't fix the problem. I decided to make an RMA after that, but realized I had probably voided the warranty when I cut and soldered into the wire harness of the H80. I decided to give 2 series diodes a try. That fixed the noise, and my temps are just as low as they were before.Seems that the pump company (pumpany) should revise their circuitry on these units. Electrical engineering for the win!


----------



## wlw wl

And that is why I opted for "external" adapter, it doesn't touch the warranty.

Glad you got it to shut up and yes, the pumpany







should have done something about that long time ago.


----------



## stev067

Interesting thing is, I can still get it to go imbalanced if I flick it. But when I flick it again, it will go silent. Pump readout is 1788 RPM by the way.


----------



## wlw wl

So you'd probably need around 1700 to make it stable.

To those of you that asked for the adapter this or last week - I'm terribly sorry but there's a delay caused by the supplier and I still haven't received the parts to make the adapters. As soon as I get the package I'll get to work and all of you will get what you asked for


----------



## axipher

Finally for my 3rd H80 back from RMA.

They sent my a pre-paid shipping label for UPS so I can return my defective one two weeks ago. I haven't had a chance until last night to take the H80 out and pack it up to ship out. Turns out they shipped me a new one before I even confirmed that I was returning my defective one.

Great customer service, still doesn't completely make up for the bad quality control though on other units.

Good news is the new H80 made the initial gurgle when I first powered on and has been running dead silent since with some AP-15's.


----------



## wlw wl

3rd time's the charm, right?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> 3rd time's the charm, right?


I'm hoping so


----------



## stev067

Here's my correspondence with Corsair tech support from today:

_Me: I recently purchased this cooler from newegg. My unit is making the notorious grinding sound. I've laid my case on its side, I've flicked the pump and the tubing, I've tried different radiator orientations, and the noise always comes back. I want to know if you are mailing units where this problem is fixed, or if I'll be rolling the dice on every unit. Thank you.

TS: Sorry to hear that. If you are within the return policy of your reseller then my suggestion is to get the unit replaced through them and take advantage of their return policy, otherwise you can process this via our RMA process. Thanks
TS: TS Has advised the client to request an RMA

Me: Okay I know that I should request an RMA through Newegg. Please address my concern about whether or not this problem has been corrected...

TS: Yes, it has been corrected._

I hope it's really fixed so no more people have to deal with this.


----------



## wlw wl

I think the newest reported unit I saw was 1209 or something like that, that would be made in March, and that was still grinding.

Maybe they fixed it in even newer lots, who knows.

If anyone gets H60, H80 or H100 with the lot# starting with 1210 or higher, please PM me!


----------



## bwebmasta

Well, I have some good and bad news. The good news is that my H100 is being replaced by Corsair, the bad news is my fan controller on my 650d case went out last night, so it is on the replacement list as well. Hopefully, I will be squared away with the new cooler I will post back results.


----------



## wlw wl

I'm waiting for the replacement for the 600T front panel too, but not the fan controller part actually. The controllers in these cases seems to not be able to handle their rated current and I recall quite a few reports of them blowing up.


----------



## axipher

I'll check my newest H80 from RMA tonight when I get home for the batch number.


----------



## neveser

I installed my H100 on Tuesday night. It makes some noise but it's no where near some of the videos I've seen people post with their noise. I'd describe it as a hum that pulsates. It's not the worst thing in the world but I'd like it to go away. I've read that if the +12v is over that this can be the source of the problem. Mine is 12.192, also my speed is somewhere between 2000 and 3000. From what I've read, the pump becomes silent right around 1900. I've also read over at the Corsair forums that putting the pump on a fan controller can alleviate the additional voltage that is coming from my (Corsair) PSU and help to silence the noise. I need a fan controller anyway because the built-in fan controller in my Storm Trooper causes all the LED fans to blink.

I was going to get an NZXT Mix or Mesh. Would these fan controllers work for me? If not, what are some good controllers I can use? I don't want any knobs that's why those 2 NZXT models caught my eye. Well, that and the price.


----------



## wlw wl

Finally got the parts and getting the adapters ready








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neveser*
> 
> I've read that if the +12v is over that this can be the source of the problem. Mine is 12.192,


Not necessarily true. The voltage is a contributing factor, because the unit is poorly designed and the pump's speed depends on the voltage only and it changes and fluctuates along with the voltage. But there's more to that than just the voltage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neveser*
> 
> also my speed is somewhere between 2000 and 3000. From what I've read, the pump becomes silent right around 1900.


Again, not necessarily true. Some pumps become silent at 1900, some at 1800, some at 1700 or lower, and some don't until the speed is as low as 1200RPM, which is of course beyond acceptable in any way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neveser*
> 
> I've also read over at the Corsair forums that putting the pump on a fan controller can alleviate the additional voltage that is coming from my (Corsair) PSU and help to silence the noise. I need a fan controller anyway because the built-in fan controller in my Storm Trooper causes all the LED fans to blink.
> 
> I was going to get an NZXT Mix or Mesh. Would these fan controllers work for me? If not, what are some good controllers I can use? I don't want any knobs that's why those 2 NZXT models caught my eye. Well, that and the price.


As for the blinking, perhaps a capacitor connected to the LEDs in parallel would solve the problem.

Yes, the fan controller can be used to slow down the pump which should, hopefully, result in the noise going away.
NZXT Mix has 50W per channel, Mesh has 30W per channel, both are more than capable of running the H100, which by itself draws only about 150mA, that is less than 2W.


----------



## gregoire

What the "recommended" speed of the pump ?

When I had it connected to the PSU it was 2150-2160 rpm, now I have connected it to my motherboard CPU's fan and give it a little less voltage so it's at 2030-2040 rpm.

I don't overclock my i3770k now so the noise is all that matter (and for now the problem are the two Corsair fans which are way too lood even at 580rpm -> I ordered two Noctua NF-F12).

I can't find anywhere a recommended minimum for a 77W TDP ?

Thanks


----------



## wlw wl

You shouldn't see any difference in cooling performance until you go below 1800RPM, at which point exactly the efficiency of the pump will start to decline is hard to tell however.


----------



## gregoire

Tremendous answer !!!

Thank you so much, I will set the voltage so it run at just more than 1800 rpm then









Thanks you very much !!!


----------



## wlw wl

Set it to as high as it will go without making the noise, and always check what are the idle and stress temperatures if it's running slower than default.


----------



## james_ant

I get this sometimes when with my H80 when I take the side of my case off and it moves a bit. Usually I fix it buy turning off the computer or tapping on the hose.


----------



## Larhleolynx

First up I'd like to say thanks to wlw wl for all the hard work and diligence on this thread, its really rare to find someone that's willing to go the extra distance like this, especially for no personal gain.

I recently bought a Corsair H100 cooler, and all was great for about half a day, then it started the rattling hard drive-ish noises. Its slowly been getting louder. So I checked around online to see what fixes if any where to be had. Very quickly I stumbled upon wlw wl's diode based voltage dropper and got excited. However, installing the diode jumper I made, only makes the sound faster. While looking at the CPU fan RPM monitor the pump does indeed drop from 2050-2200 down to 1880-1960ish in RPM so the diode does its intended job. But the noise gets worse. I'm curious what I should attempt next. Leaning the case to the side makes the noise nearly vanish, however I don't have the room to lay the case on its side in my current location. I've tried tapping the hoses and the water block/pump itself doesn't seem to help. I have two Noctua NF-P12 fans mounted to the radiator instead of the corsair brand fans. I never actually tried the corsair brand fans. Could that make a difference? By the way my batch number is 11529403.


----------



## greymonk

First off, The 1N4001 fix has worked for me. I had a huge problem with the rattling of the pump. It would come and go (mostly always there). Rattling the hoses seemed to help but it would eventually return. A quick stop at "The Source" (Canadian Radio Shack) and a few minutes later the sound is gone!

Larhleolynx, I am also running Noctua fans but I'm using NF-F12 fans. They are nicely silent and still give excellent air flow with good pressure. The P12's shouldn't be an issue but the NF-F12 fans are made for radiator applications.


----------



## wlw wl

Larhleolynx - can you be bothered to take the H100 out of the case?

greymonk - another soul saved


----------



## Larhleolynx

I can do that, I don't have any spare thermal paste though. Would take about 3-7 days to get some delivered.


----------



## wlw wl

It might be a good idea to take it out, place the radiator above the pump vertically so the hoses go from the pump straight up to the rad, turn on the unit and shake it a bit and let it run for some time - that should move any leftover air from the pump to the rad and that might help. Surely it won't hurt...

The pump is very weak and it might not be able to move the air on its own, if there is any air inside that is.


----------



## wlw wl

I thought it would be nice to have everything in one place, so here follow my thoughts and ideas about what I found inside H100, this applies to H80 and H60 too, the latter excluding the fan controller part, of course.

This is a collections of various posts that I wrote.


Spoiler: About H60 incorrectly reporting its speed as 4000 RPM



Quote:


> It's not a bug, it's a feature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H60 has the RPM signal coming straight from the motor controller, H80 and H100 has that signal routed through the fan controller's PCB (not present in the H60), so there might be some additional filtering present in the H80/H100's controller IC (which validates my previous statement of the signal on H60 being noisy or something like that).
> 
> I've personally seen H100's speed reported as 4000, so that just happens to all of them, but they all run at the 2000-ish RPM, end of story.








Spoiler: Again about why H60 reports its speed incorrectly as 4000 while the H100 an H80 don't - boring details



Quote:


> The description of the FG output pin is rather clear - "rotation count detection function can be implemented using this output, which corresponds to the phase switching". Maybe this isn't crystal clear at first glance, but when you look at the block diagram of the LB11961 driver, it's clearly shown that the FG output is just an amplified signal from the Hall sensor.
> 
> The stator has 4 poles and two phases, just like this one: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fileoles.jpg
> This means that the magnet on the rotor has 4 poles ("main" poles, there might be another 8 poles superimposed, to eliminate 0 torque positions, these don't matter), each taking 90 degrees of the circle, SNSN for full circle. Now let's assume that the Hall sensor goes high (H) when it's next to N, and low (L) when it's next to S (or the opposite, doesn't matter). Then, a full rotation of the rotor means that the Hall sensor "sees" SNSN, so its output states are LHLH per one rotation.
> 
> So there you have it, there are two "ticks" (depends on the sensing circuit which transition - rising edge [L->H] or falling edge [H->L] - counts as a "tick") per one full rotation of the impeller, therefore the frequency on the FG output is double the rotation count. An that is why they wrote that a function should be implemented for this, in our case to divide it by two. However the raw signal is passed to the CPU fan header, so you see 4000 RPM where it should be 2000 RPM.
> 
> I don't think I've said that the signal isn't noisy, or that it is, I don't know that. You'd have to hook it up to an oscilloscope, but my guess is that the signal isn't symmetrical - either one of two falling or rising edges is less pronounced, or every other H is lower then the one before or something like that.
> If so, one sensing circuit will trigger on (count) both "ticks", while another might only trigger on only one of every two edges, effectively dividing the frequency by two.








Spoiler: About the pump's motor and its driver



Quote:


> Truth is that the motor used in the Hydro pumps is just like the one you can find in a PC fan, a bipolar BLDC.
> As we both now, the motor is driven by a LB11961 single-phase bipolar motor driver (designed to drive PC fans, BTW). This driver has built-in speed sensing and variable speed control based on a thermistor (more on that later). Speed detection can be done by either Hall sensors or back EMF sensing. PC fans use Hall sensors. EMF sensing does not require additional components, but is harder to handle and the engine has to be started "blindly". As far as I can tell, Hydro units use Hall sensor(s) too.
> 
> Now the interesting part - the driver can work in a variable speed control mode with a thermistor or at full speed always. Unfortunately the latter is the case with Hydro units, the pump goes as fast as it can, the higher the voltage, the faster - hence problems with grinding are more common on >12V PSUs and that's why the voltage dropper or a fan controller usually works.
> 
> The grinding. I think that actually that can be fixed easily by changing the PWM base frequency, which is adjusted by the C2 capacitor on the driver's PCB. Normally that's 100pF which sets the clock to 25kHz. Setting it lower isn't desirable due to the proximity of acoustic range, so we're talking about increasing it a bit, but that's a matter of trial to see if it stops resonating at say 30kHz. So changing one capacitor might be all it takes to cure these units. I don't have a sample to experiment on, which I would gladly do, so I can't confirm that in practice - but it would be the first thing to try, because it's so easy.
> 
> Another solution would be to use the feature built into the driver, which is low speed setting. It could be used to cheat a bit, set the so called "low speed" to say 1900 or 2000RPM and simulate the thermistor with a resistor, so that the driver never goes into the "high temperature - full speed" mode. I'd personally use a precision potentiometer in place of aforementioned resistor, which would allow for fine tuning of the pump's rotational speed with the driver in variable speed control mode by simulating changing coolant temperature.
> Last but not least, I would add a 12V Zener diode on the input, to cap the power supply voltage to 12,00V. Cheap and effective solution. Perhaps in conjunction with the PWM frequency change, that would put all the problems to the rest.
> 
> The speed sensing that goes out to the CPU header comes right off the FG pin of the driver (they even marked the pad for the third wire "FG" on the PCB). This pin changes state each time a phase is switched, so it "ticks" twice per each rotation of the impeller with this motor and driver, that's why H60 reads in BIOS as 4000RPM while the actual speed is 2000RPM. Again, not a bug, it's how it's supposed to work. Like I've said before, on H80 and H100 this signal is routed through the fan controller's board IC, where a hardware divisor might be easily implemented to divide that by two, and probably is.
> This should have been implemented on the BLDC driver PCB (which is the same in H60, H80 and H100) because that's basically two transistors (bistable multivibrator) or a little IC.








Spoiler: About the stupid voltage regulator IC of the fan controller's circuit



Quote:


> I'll also add that on H80 and H100 the fan controller's circuit is being powered by a
> National Semiconductor LP2992AILDX-3.3 Micropower 250 mA Low-Noise Ultra Low-Dropout 3,3V Voltage Regulator (package marking M13AC L014A B).
> 
> I believe this is the main cause of the controllers suddenly dying for no apparent reason (no lights on startup and ever again) because this regulator is meant for other applications (battery powered mobile appliances), in this circuit it has to work with relatively high input voltage (+12V) which means that it has to disperse moderate amounts of heat. The IC has its own thermal safety and there is a heat sink polygon on the PCB, but still the IC isn't well-suited for this application is in my opinion it's the weakest link of the design.
> There is no point in using a low-dropout regulator when there is such a big difference between the input voltage and desired output voltage.
> There is plenty to choose from, for example Texas Instruments UA78M33 in TO-252 or SOT-223 packages, both of which would fit this application much better.
> 
> Also I think that the fourth LED, the little human figure, should be connected directly to the voltage regulator's output and no to the controller IC as it is now. Then it would be clearly visible which part of the circuit died - if the control IC would break, only the 3 profile LEDS wouldn't work, but the fourth "fella" LED would still be on. Now, when the "fella" is connected to the control IC, it will malfunction in both the control IC fault and the voltage regulator fault scenarios, effectively being of no use at all as at least one profile LED is always on when the unit is powered and working, so the fourth LED serves none but a decorative purpose.


----------



## Larhleolynx

Ok! I've went and placed an order to get some new thermal paste, and I'll try your suggestion once it arrives. I'm curious if anyone has any experience with Intel's Ivy Bridge CPUs and the H100 yet? I haven't tried running my 3570K with the stock Intel cooler, and I can't overclock the CPU because I'm using an older Gigabyte Z68 motherboard. I went straight with the Corsair H100, I'm mostly wondering if these are temperatures I should be seeing with a properly seated and functioning H100 cooler. (stock voltage, stock SpeedStep clocks)

Currently at idle the cores are as follows:
Core #0 29-30 C
Core #1 25-27 C
Core #2 36-38 C
Core #3 26-28 C
Package 34-35 C

Under Prime95:
Core #0 48-49 C
Core #1 52-53 C
Core #2 54-55 C
Core #3 45-46 C
Package 57-58 C


----------



## bwebmasta

wlw, did you post this on the Corsair thread? If not, you should, this is very informative and helps a lot.


----------



## wlw wl

Larhleolynx - these temps are similar to what I saw with H100 on i7-2600k. There are some posts by people with Ivy over at Corsair forum.

bwebmasta - yes I took it from there, but not the big "H100 Pump noise" thread, but the "H series pump speeds" thread here:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=106031


----------



## stev067

Larhleolynx- you might want to try what I did when I had the same issue, and try putting 2 diodes in series rather than 1. Mine is silent now and a little over 1700 rpm.


----------



## jayeshdc

Ooh thanks mate for u r help i was able to made voltage dropper myself, here is a pic, and now that irritating sound is gone, thanks again.


----------



## wlw wl

stev067 - when one 1N4001 isn't enough, I usually provide another adapter that has 1N5819 to combine both adapters, this mean a total drop of about 1,6V instead of 2,0V which gives a bit higher RPM. Two 1N4001s are good too, as long as the temperatures aren't affected









jayeshdc - is that for an H60?


----------



## hoppingpulse

I am having this same problem with the grinding noise on my Corsair H80. I tried connecting the pump with the three pin connector to my mb so I could maybe control the speed hoping that would do something but when I have only the three pin connected neither the pump or the fans will power up. I would love some help with this on how to fix the noise.


----------



## hoppingpulse

Sorry I was so hasty and didn't read up much first, fiddling around with this cooler has brought me to a point of anger and exhaustion. I have read now about the dropper fix and it sounds like an amazing fix.


----------



## jayeshdc

hey "wlw wl"

Yes its for h60,







i was also wondering if could use 1N5819, unfortunately that's not available at the time, but then i figured out, running them at low rpm wont damage the pump, works like a charm























hey ur "dropper mkII" looks nice u could add a male 3pin connector for convenience


----------



## wlw wl

hoppingpulse - that 3-pin connector is just a speed sensor signal. You'd need an adapter to connect the H80 to motherboard fan header.

jayeshdc - nice job







For the H60 however, you can just use a motherboard fan header and slow down the pump with some fan management software, such as SpeedFan.
I could add a fan header to the adapter, but it's mostly aimed at H80 and H100, since H60s can be slowed down through the motherboard fan header without any external components.
The difference between 1N4001 and 1N5819 is only about 50 - 80 RPM, so it's not really that massive.


----------



## strokarn

Hello Wlw Wl,

I was in contact with you yesterday about a shipment of a voltage dropper, however I am limited to two PMs aday and couldn't get back to you.

I am very interested in getting one and paypal works just fine.

You can PM me your details but I won't be able to give you any replies until this evening or so except through this thread.

Thanks again for the great work!

Will update later with a vid of how it went.


----------



## Larhleolynx

As an update to my last post about a single 1N4001 Diode dropper not killing the noise, I've now put two 1N4001 droppers in series, and the noise is gone. However the RPM of the pump is now 1638-1683 and if I'm not mistaken that's a bit too low. Though my temperatures under Prime95 are the same +/- 1 degree celcius.

I have available to me these choices of diode packs at the local electronic store, I have basic soldering skills, and the tools to make the droppers, but my knowledge of diodes is quite small. Would any of these perhaps work better than two 1N4001's in series, maybe drop the voltage a bit less. I don't know anywhere that can get me a single 1N5819 diode.

25 pack of Assorted Rectifier diodes. 10pc: 1N4001, 5pc:1N4002, 5pc:1N4004, 5pc: 1N4007.

3 A Barrel diodes: Type: 1N5404. 400 PIV. 2 per pack.

Micro Diodes: Type: 1N4001. 50 PIV. 2 per pack.

Rectifier diodes. Rated 6 amps. 50 PIV. For replacement and power supplies. 4 per pack. Axial mounted for general purpose applications.
Features a 400amp surge rating (for ½ cycle) (this one doesn't seem to have a 1N number?)


----------



## wlw wl

strokarn - I have PMed you my e-mail.

Larhleolynx - Replacing the 1N4001 with 5819 would raise the RPM a little, and by little I mean little, like 50-80 RPM perhaps.

If the temperatures are only marginally higher, keep the two 1N4001 and be happy








If you have fans connected to the cooler, the higher temperature might be due to the fans spinning slower at the 10V as opposed to the full 12V and no the pump being less efficient.

That diode must be very big, if it's rated at 6 Amperes. Without it's designation you can't tell what the forward voltage of the diode is, therefore you don't know if it would work here at all.


----------



## applecarly

Hi wlw wl,

Thanks for info. I will try this later tonight or tomorrow and let you know.

Thanks for your help.

Carl

Grinding Noise On My Corsair H60 Pump from: wlw wl on May 14, 9:35 pm

Per spec, it's 2100RPM +/- 10%, but H60s ten to report double the speed they are actually running at, so you might see something like 4200RPM, just divide that by 2.

You can safely go down to 1700 - 1800RPM, just keep an eye on the CPU temp. Below 1700RPM it might go


----------



## Ironman517

Mine used to do this, it eventually stopped on it's own. I thought it was just because it was new


----------



## Scorpion667

I tried the 1N4001 and it did not help. I ended up soldering a male 3 pin fan header to a female molex so that I may hook up the pump to my fan controller. As such, I was able to find the right RPM for my unit where sound was no longer an issue. It seems about 1786 RPM is the sweet spot on mine. What is the lowest RPM considered "safe" for this one?


----------



## wlw wl

The pump is so weak that it's hard to judge that X RPM would be too slow but X+50 would be okay. The temperature will tell you the truth.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> The pump is so weak that it's hard to judge that X RPM would be too slow but X+50 would be okay. The temperature will tell you the truth.


Gotcha. Will do a series of tests and report back. From 2250 to 1950 it was only 1c difference, will see how it scales downwards.


----------



## wlw wl

Keep in mind that if you have the fans connected to the H100, you are slowing down the fans as well and I'd go ahead and speculate that the temperature difference you're seeing is caused by the fans spinning slower, not the pump ( mentioned it on the previous page).

In the end the water flow in this unit is very low (between 1 to 2 liters per minute), and I've been taught that 90% times zero is still zero


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Keep in mind that if you have the fans connected to the H100, you are slowing down the fans as well and I'd go ahead and speculate that the temperature difference you're seeing is caused by the fans spinning slower, not the pump ( mentioned it on the previous page).
> In the end the water flow in this unit is very low (between 1 to 2 liters per minute), and I've been taught that 90% times zero is still zero


Right. The fans are hooked up to a different front panel controller so the speed is constant., I took that in account







. From my testing the difference between 2250 RPM on the pump at 1786 is 2C on a 2500k at 1.48v (75c vs 77c after 2 hours prime95 blend 90% memory @ 25c ambient. I'm sure the difference would be smaller for those running lower voltages. Idle temps are identical.

Hope that useless piece of information helps someone, as I'm about to rip it out of my system and pass it down to it's rightful owner =)

Time for a custom loop


----------



## Volcomjd

I haven't yet received and installed my "voltage dropper". Yet, I have a remark/question regarding the control of the H100's stock fans speed.

I noticed that when you play with the H100 fan controller button, the speed of the fans (the 2 stock ones that are plugged in the pump) adjusts to the option you choose, weither it's silent mode, standard mode or performance mode. So the controller button on the pump indeed works: it controls the speed of the H100 fans.

However, I noticed that the CPU fan in Fan Xpert (Asus AI Suite II software) always stays between 2100-2200 rpm when I press on the H100 button to change the speed of the fans. I read somewhere that your motherboard only reads the rpm of the pump itself and not the rpm of the fans plugged in the pump. Therefore, the constant rpm that I see for the CPU Fan in Fan Xpert, which never changes regardless the profile I choose with the button, would only represent the speed of the pump and not the speed of the fans. Can anyone confirm this and maybe elaborate furthermore?

If this is correct, I assume that the profile I choose with the H100 button would have no effect what so ever on the rpm reading of my CPU fan in my software once I install the "voltage dropper". Am I right? If so, *will I be able to see the amount of rpm dropping for the "CPU fan" in Fan Xpert when I will connect the "voltage dropper"???* For example, *will Fan Xpert show me that the RPM for the CPU fan dropped from 2166 rpm to ~1950 rpm when I installed the "voltage dropper"???*


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Volcomjd*
> 
> I haven't yet received and installed my "voltage dropper". Yet, I have a remark/question regarding the control of the H100's stock fans speed.
> I noticed that when you play with the H100 fan controller button, the speed of the fans (the 2 stock ones that are plugged in the pump) adjusts to the option you choose, weither it's silent mode, standard mode or performance mode. So the controller button on the pump indeed works: it controls the speed of the H100 fans.
> However, I noticed that the CPU fan in Fan Xpert (Asus AI Suite II software) always stays between 2100-2200 rpm when I press on the H100 button to change the speed of the fans. I read somewhere that your motherboard only reads the rpm of the pump itself and not the rpm of the fans plugged in the pump. Therefore, the constant rpm that I see for the CPU Fan in Fan Xpert, which never changes regardless the profile I choose with the button, would only represent the speed of the pump and not the speed of the fans. Can anyone confirm this and maybe elaborate furthermore?
> If this is correct, I assume that the profile I choose with the H100 button would have no effect what so ever on the rpm reading of my CPU fan in my software once I install the "voltage dropper". Am I right? If so, *will I be able to see the amount of rpm dropping for the "CPU fan" in Fan Xpert when I will connect the "voltage dropper"???* For example, *will Fan Xpert show me that the RPM for the CPU fan dropped from 2166 rpm to ~1950 rpm when I installed the "voltage dropper"???*


When you connect it, it is only dropping the pump speed what you see on the Fan Xpert software. I have the same software, Asus P8Z68 Deluxe board. The fan speed..you don't know and it is not shown. Now if you want to plug them into the MB, that's another route.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Volcomjd*
> 
> If this is correct, I assume that the profile I choose with the H100 button would have no effect what so ever on the rpm reading of my CPU fan in my software once I install the "voltage dropper". Am I right? If so, *will I be able to see the amount of rpm dropping for the "CPU fan" in Fan Xpert when I will connect the "voltage dropper"???* For example, *will Fan Xpert show me that the RPM for the CPU fan dropped from 2166 rpm to ~1950 rpm when I installed the "voltage dropper"???*


The CPU Fan reading you are seeing is the H100 pump ONLY. You wont be able to read the fan RPM if you have them hooked into the h100 block. The voltage dropper WILL have an effect on your "CPU Fan" as that is actually the pump reading, as well will also slow down your actual fans slightly as they are drawing power from the same molex connector that your pump does. That's IF they are hooked up into the h100 block. So yes you will see an RPM drop in your monitoring software


----------



## Volcomjd

Yeah it all make sense now,

I know it depends on whatever your activites usually are when you're on your computer, as well as to how good your cooling system is in your case, however, I'm just curious as to which profile you guys use for the fan speed of the H100 (silent, standard or performance)? Which one do you usually leave it on once you've added the voltage dropper?

Mine is currently set to the medium profile. Although, when I will install the voltage dropper and start playing Diablo 3 for example, should I set my H100 fans to "performance"? Is this what you guys would do if you had my PC (see specs below)?


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Volcomjd*
> 
> Yeah it all make sense now,
> I know it depends on whatever your activites usually are when you're on your computer, as well as to how good your cooling system is in your case, however, I'm just curious as to which profile you guys use for the fan speed of the H100 (silent, standard or performance)? Which one do you usually leave it on once you've added the voltage dropper?
> Mine is currently set to the medium profile. Although, when I will install the voltage dropper and start playing Diablo 3 for example, should I set my H100 fans to "performance"? Is this what you guys would do if you had my PC (see specs below)?


I leave mine crunk up all the way.

After I get my replacement unit, I will install it out of the box and see if I have the same noise issue without the dropper.

Some people seem to think the lot number for the pumps are irrelevant, and the the pumps have poor design, but what explains why certain pumps are silent and others have the noise? The lot number of my current H100 is mentioned several times with the noise problem. IDK...


----------



## wlw wl

There's more to that - why one pump is silent in one system but the same pump rattles in another?
PSU? Tension on the screws? Order of tightening the screws? Amount of TIM? Exact placement of the backplate?
There's literally thousands of variables.

As for the profiles, the fans' speed on any of the profiles isn't constant, it is regulated based on the coolant temperature, the profiles just determine the bottom and the upper speed limits for the fans.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> There's more to that - why one pump is silent in one system but the same pump rattles in another?
> PSU? Tension on the screws? Order of tightening the screws? Amount of TIM? Exact placement of the backplate?
> There's literally thousands of variables.
> As for the profiles, the fans' speed on any of the profiles isn't constant, it is regulated based on the coolant temperature, the profiles just determine the bottom and the upper speed limits for the fans.


Exactly, that was my question on the "other" site. Some seem to think the lot numbers are not relevant to the discussion there, and the pump has a bad design. If it was just bad design, ALL the pumps would make that noise, looks to be a QC issue lumped in? That place seems to have some real jerks for lack of a better term. It would seem as though with such a widespread issue people would want all information shared, involved, discussed, and it would seem as though Corsair would chime in more about it.


----------



## Maximuscr31

It would make sense if everyone had the issue but I have been using mine for around 90 days now without the slightest hiccup or sound. It is the quietest thing in my system


----------



## fc4265

Why should the customer be charged for shipping for an RMA if the unit is faulty?

Why should people need to create their own fix? If this thing is a piece of crap Corsair should accept responsibility. Clearly Corsair is just reselling it under their own logo. So the manufacturer needs to redesign it and Corsair should do something about it.

One thing would be to make the H100 easier to fit in a case. Shouldn't have to drill holes in the case to mount the radiator.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fc4265*
> 
> Why should the customer be charged for shipping for an RMA if the unit is faulty?
> Why should people need to create their own fix? If this thing is a piece of crap Corsair should accept responsibility. Clearly Corsair is just reselling it under their own logo. So the manufacturer needs to redesign it and Corsair should do something about it.
> One thing would be to make the H100 easier to fit in a case. Shouldn't have to drill holes in the case to mount the radiator.


I agree that the customer shouldn't have to pay for shipping. I was able to talk certain companies into sending me a shipping label however (Evga, Logitech). You can offset this by using the XX days return policy from the store/website you buy it from, although that is quite limited. When I got a defective 7970 from Newegg, they paid for the shipping label to send it back and I got a full refund.

As far as making it easier to fit in cases, well that's what the H80 is for. You just don't buy a 240mm radiator if you don't have 240mm in your case, either by design or with modification.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fc4265*
> 
> Why should the customer be charged for shipping for an RMA if the unit is faulty?
> Why should people need to create their own fix? If this thing is a piece of crap Corsair should accept responsibility. Clearly Corsair is just reselling it under their own logo. So the manufacturer needs to redesign it and Corsair should do something about it.
> One thing would be to make the H100 easier to fit in a case. Shouldn't have to drill holes in the case to mount the radiator.


I did not have to pay for the RMA that I have being sent out. I got an advanced RMA, to avoid downtime and so far Corsair has been great with the process. Their customer service has been great, it just an issue with the unit (some of them).

On the case fit...what Scorpion said.


----------



## Maximuscr31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fc4265*
> 
> Why should the customer be charged for shipping for an RMA if the unit is faulty?
> Why should people need to create their own fix? If this thing is a piece of crap Corsair should accept responsibility. Clearly Corsair is just reselling it under their own logo. So the manufacturer needs to redesign it and Corsair should do something about it.
> One thing would be to make the H100 easier to fit in a case. Shouldn't have to drill holes in the case to mount the radiator.


There is a problem with some of the coolers but not all. They need to figure out the problem.Also they shouldn't have to redo the design because your case doesn't have provisions. Buy a case that has room and is made for radiators. It fits easily then.


----------



## HighwayStar

I had the same hard drive noise and tried the voltage drop moles connector. It made the pump silent but I must of done something wrong because it damaged the fan control module. Fans were going at max now. Resetting firmware did nothing. Was I supposed to unplug the fans from the pump/Module using this method? I really hope I didn't damage the main board







either way I was able to get a replacement and Im going to try the fan controller fix if this new one rattles ( and I expect it to).

Can anyone link to me exactly what type of controller /connectors I need to try this method? I was thinking Zalman fan mate 2. What else will I need to connect it to the molex?


----------



## wlw wl

A fan controller will work just like the diode mod.

Also, the fan controller in the unit isn't particularly well though-out and they do tend to die, it is however in no way related to the voltage dropper. In fact I'd go ahead and say that the diode mod lowers the probability of the unit's fan controller fault, because it lowers the stress on it's voltage regulator, which is the weak link and most likely the reason why yours died.


----------



## neveser

I got my fan controller today (NZXT Mix). Unfortunately I did not have a molex to 3 pin female adapter. I thought I did but I may have used it on someone else's computer.
Anyway, a couple of questions...

Is this adapter going to do the job?
Where should I plug the fans in? Right now they are both plugged into the motherboard on a Y adapter (COUGAR CF-V12HPB)
Will running the pump on the fan controller create any issues with monitoring it?

And on a side note - I had to replace my PSU because my wife's was acting up. So she's got my Corsair 600w and I picked up an OCZ-ZX 850w.
I had 12.192 on the +12 with the Corsair, the OCZ is 12.096. The RPMs do still seem to be high (2246)
Best part is, the pump now seems to be silent. The loudest thing I can hear is a cheapy 120mm fan that's getting replaced in a few days.
The humming pulsating noise is gone.

Should I still go for using the controller to lower the RPMs of the H100? I'm leaning toward yes because the voltage is still a bit over and the RPMs are a bit high.

EDIT - I found a cheaper adapter on Amazon. Looks like exactly what is needed
http://www.amazon.com/3pin-power-4pin-molex-adapter/dp/B000H25PBK


----------



## wlw wl

Both adapter are suitable.
If the pump is silent, leave it as it is, but get the adapter just in case. If it starts the noise again, you'll have a cure ready.

The lowered voltage will not interfere with the pump's RPM reading on the 3-pin connector coming from it.
You can have the fans connected where you like, including the H100 - but if you use a fan controller to slow it down, make sure that the fan controller has enough power output on that channel.


----------



## HighwayStar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Both adapter are suitable.
> If the pump is silent, leave it as it is, but get the adapter just in case. If it starts the noise again, you'll have a cure ready.
> The lowered voltage will not interfere with the pump's RPM reading on the 3-pin connector coming from it.
> You can have the fans connected where you like, including the H100 - but if you use a fan controller to slow it down, make sure that the fan controller has enough power output on that channel.


I just installed a new one and it's been running fine about 10hrs with no rattle. I think I'm going to take your advice and get a remedy ready just I case the noise starts. So much for this being a low cost, simple,alternative liquid cooling solution lol. If it wasn't for you I' wouldve lost my mind by now. Thanks for all the info in your threads.


----------



## JayWill411

I got my H100 installed in a new build this weekend, and while I wouldn't describe the noise as grinding or rattling like a HD read/write, the pump has a high pitched whine that is annoying and quite audible even with the case closed. In addition, the fan controller appears to be borked as I can't get the fans to change speed on any profile. So since I also ended up with one bad stick of Vengeance RAM that I needed to RMA, I called up customer service to discuss that RMA as well as an advanced exchange replacement for the H100.

When she checked stock, the Rep found that they had no stock on the H100, with an ETA not until May 30th. She was surprised and said after entering many RMAs on the H100, it was the first time she had seen it out of stock and with an ETA so far out. I'm not trying to look into this too deeply, but I wonder if they have a new build lot coming that has at least tried to address the issue.

With that said, is there anything on my current unit I should take note of besides the Lot # and maybe the pump RPM that the BIOS is reporting for comparison purposes?


----------



## wlw wl

A picture of the PCBs, for comparison purposes with the one you might get from the supposedly new lot









Or don't, I have those, but take the pictures of the replacement


----------



## RoGDoM

I had a H60 for 4 months, cooling an AMD Bulldozer, although in dual fan set up with open case at al times cooling performance is not that spectacular with pump @ 100% = 4300 RPM and corsair and zigmatek push-pull fans @ 1200 (fan noise threshold) = 40 degrees Celsius.

Pump makes huge high pitched whine noise at 100% (4300 RPM) and is the most noisy hardware in my case, I was able to control it's speed by changing Asus Cross Hair Formula V motherboard CPU controller to DC instead of PWM, almost silent at 2500 RPM, sometimes decently humming @ 85% (3800RPM) but tricky to get to, dropping from 100% to 85% (asus software or better speedfan) will not do it most of the times you have to go from lower speed (2500 RPM) to the 85% !!

What I am trying to say is that for the H60 at least, for a given pump rotational speed (displayed at least by software as the same speed) the noise level could be radically different, so take your time playing with the pump speed "transition" from lower or higher speeds to the desired one until you get lucky like me(happens frequently ! ) and land on a sweet spot.

other thoughts: I am thinking tightness of the H60 to the mobo and how level and balanced it is attached might influence noise level.


----------



## wlw wl

Keep in mind that the actual speed of the H60 is half of what you're reading, so it's 1900RPM not 3800RPM, and that's the speed at which most H60/80/100 stop the strange noises that they do.

Also I agree, the mechanical stress from the way it's mounted, i.e. the screws not being uniformly tightened, might contribute to the problem.


----------



## RoGDoM

Thanks for the info about RPM, just to add that in my experience the RATTLING noise happens sometimes between 95 and 75% depending on how you get to that point of RPMs but disappears after you do couple speed " transitions"; in my experience same RPM could be quiet or noisy that happening in a semi random manner!, but the 100% speed has definitely a constant high pitched noise to it.


----------



## Stormflurry33

I have been having the hard drive noise grinding problem with my H60 for a while now. I decided to try to plug the pump to my case's built in fan controller. The 650D fan controller is a 3-switch one and I leave it on the highest setting all the time anyways and my pump is now much quieter. Currently monitoring my temps to see if they change.


----------



## Xefier

Just built a new rig this weekend with no knowledge on the H100 issue. Got the H100 from Amazon; batch 12129043. Grinding noise is there and it is extremely annoying. Louder than anything else in my case. Sound is much less noticeable when the case is on its side, but this is not a compromise I am willing to accept.

Going to give wlw wl's fix a whirl and report back!


----------



## wlw wl

12129043 is the 12th week of 2012, which is 12th to 16th March. So now we know that units with this # aren't fixed. Wonder if these "post-restock" units will in fact be fixed...

For those of you interested in how the adapters are made, take a look at this *step-by-step album*


----------



## gregoire

Does anyone know what the rpm of an H100 mean ?

I test it now with 1250 rpm and I don't see my CPU going higher to 45° (i3770k w/o OC and a room temp of 23°) with the two NF-F12 fans running at 360 rpm each.

And also, should one screw the pump with "force" on my motherboard or ???

Thank for all info


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Keep in mind that if you have the fans connected to the H100, you are slowing down the fans as well and I'd go ahead and speculate that the temperature difference you're seeing is caused by the fans spinning slower, not the pump ( mentioned it on the previous page).
> 
> In the end the water flow in this unit is very low (between 1 to 2 liters per minute), and I've been taught that 90% times zero is still zero


So that's probably that, it's so weak that you can't make it any weaker


----------



## ajresendez

So i just got an H100 from amazon and lo and behold it has the HDD like griding noise loud too. So I'm going to try the fan controller trick but I am thinking about just returning it and waiting till Corsair comes out with a fixed/revised version does anyone know if they are working on one?


----------



## wlw wl

Supposedly yes, but someone here said they are out of stock now so either you'll get the "old" H100 or they will make you wait for the re-stock if that's true.


----------



## bcl0328

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fc4265*
> 
> Why should the customer be charged for shipping for an RMA if the unit is faulty?
> Why should people need to create their own fix? If this thing is a piece of crap Corsair should accept responsibility. Clearly Corsair is just reselling it under their own logo. So the manufacturer needs to redesign it and Corsair should do something about it.
> One thing would be to make the H100 easier to fit in a case. Shouldn't have to drill holes in the case to mount the radiator.


depends on the case? it fit in my haf x perfectly without drilling. in fact, the holes were a perfect match.


----------



## bwebmasta

I installed my replacement H100 and no noise on this one, running for about 2 days now. I changed the controller out as well on my 650D case, and the fans hooked up to it are fine...for now. The whole secrecy. denial, editing posts, and banning people on Corsair's site is sort of sickening. A lot of people have real issues with a product, and sure we understand with technical things problems occur. My problem is at least acknowledge it, and DO something to fix it.

Dell, Ford, HP, Chrysler, Crucial, and many other companies approached a remedy to fix problems and let people know about it. Some had to learn the hard way. Perhaps something is coming...


----------



## wlw wl

bwebmasta - would you share your lot #? Just curious if there will be any relation between when the units were made and the problems.

Also if you ever get to remove the lid from the unit, I'd very much like a photo of the fan controller board


----------



## JayWill411

I have a question for you wlw. How should I go about connecting the H100 pump to a fan controller like in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WgV-a-6G_k&feature=related

I'm specifically linked this video because I have the same fan controller. However, with the way I connected mine, while I can control the voltage I cannot see the RPM on the readout. Does the molex plug have any kind of RPM info? I didn't think so, but how is his controller getting the RPM info?


----------



## CorsairGeorge

First off - this thread has been read. From page 1 to 21. I've read every post.

To be honest, I'm still fairly surprised. I don't monitor our forums too closely or work in our customer support, but I do see our RMA rates, and they aren't anything out of the usual. I'm working with our in-house engineers and with CoolIT in Calgary to come up with a fix for this one - we're pretty sure you guys have the cause nailed down, so we'll verify it and fix it.

For those of you who've had multiple bad units, all I can say is that we'll do you right. I'll work out something once we have a fix in place. It's absolutely unacceptable to have multiple failures back to back, and it seems there's some lot code differences, so once we nail down the root cause and have a fix, I'll be sure to get you guys the info.

In the meantime, I appreciate your patience. I appreciate your troubleshooting skills, and I apologize again for the stress.

I've been at Corsair for 8 years, ever cooler, power supply, fan, and case has my input and personal seal of approval and it pisses me off when something like this happens.

Email me if you have questions: [email protected]

I'll post back here when I have a fix - which will be provided free of charge to those of you who want it. I can't provide more details until I know more, but I'll have more info as soon as I can.


----------



## ForNever

Damn. That's pretty impressive.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayWill411*
> 
> I have a question for you wlw. How should I go about connecting the H100 pump to a fan controller like in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WgV-a-6G_k&feature=related
> I'm specifically linked this video because I have the same fan controller. However, with the way I connected mine, while I can control the voltage I cannot see the RPM on the readout. Does the molex plug have any kind of RPM info? I didn't think so, but how is his controller getting the RPM info?


There's a 3-pin fan header on the H80/H100 with a single tach-out wire. It's separate from the power you get from the 4-pin molex.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> There's a 3-pin fan header on the H80/H100 with a single tach-out wire. It's separate from the power you get from the 4-pin molex.


So I would use that to connect to the fan controller (it's currently connected to a cpu fan header on my motherboard), and connect the 4-pin molex to the PSU? Would I still be able to reduce pump RPM this way?


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> First off - this thread has been read. From page 1 to 21. I've read every post.
> To be honest, I'm still fairly surprised. I don't monitor our forums too closely or work in our customer support, but I do see our RMA rates, and they aren't anything out of the usual. I'm working with our in-house engineers and with CoolIT in Calgary to come up with a fix for this one - we're pretty sure you guys have the cause nailed down, so we'll verify it and fix it.
> For those of you who've had multiple bad units, all I can say is that we'll do you right. I'll work out something once we have a fix in place. It's absolutely unacceptable to have multiple failures back to back, and it seems there's some lot code differences, so once we nail down the root cause and have a fix, I'll be sure to get you guys the info.
> In the meantime, I appreciate your patience. I appreciate your troubleshooting skills, and I apologize again for the stress.
> I've been at Corsair for 8 years, ever cooler, power supply, fan, and case has my input and personal seal of approval and it pisses me off when something like this happens.
> Email me if you have questions: [email protected]
> I'll post back here when I have a fix - which will be provided free of charge to those of you who want it. I can't provide more details until I know more, but I'll have more info as soon as I can.


Wow this is awesome. Finally something more than "RMA it". Thank you very much George. I'm looking forward to whatever you guys come up with.


----------



## wlw wl

Hello George and thank you for coming in!

It's nice to see something other than "There is no problem" or "You are overreacting" or "There is no design flaw, it's probably the fans making noises" coming from a REP and that's all I have been hearing this far.

I have been sharing my thoughts and doubts on these units but if you'd like my re-hashed input on the matter, I'll do that gladly.
There's also 50+ pages thread on the Corsair forum titled "H100 pump noise" and there you would find many people who RMAed the units 3-4 times to no avail (speaking of which, the supposedly introduced RMA test-before-shipping methodology must be flawed).

I have previously tried to talk to tech support about this but they weren't interested and replied that "it's bigger than you might know" etc. so I thought maybe it is, but I shared my thoughts with everyone anyway so someday someone might benefit from it - sorry if you didn't want the details of the design shared...

As for the RMA rates and adapters, I know that the volume of those units that you sell must be big so the RMA rates do seem usually low, but all I can say is that I have to his day sent out well over a hundred adapters, mainly for H80s and H100. Also, I'm not Corsair, so I couldn't afford to send all of them for free, so I have been asking to cover the shipping cost and the parts (to some extent) but if someone didn't they still got the adapter. Success rate of those adapters is somewhere between the 90% and 95% mark and while I have repeatedly highlighted that it's not a real fix - more of a patch - it works quite well for what it is.

JayWill411 - you have to reduce the voltage on the 4-pin big Molex connector, the 3-pin going to the CPU_FAN header is just the RPM signal, nothing more.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> JayWill411 - you have to reduce the voltage on the 4-pin big Molex connector, the 3-pin going to the CPU_FAN header is just the RPM signal, nothing more.


Thanks wlw. So I guess my question still comes back to, how do I get the voltage and the RPM signal onto the same cable so I can both change the voltage and view the RPM on one header of the fan controller like the guy in the video? I'm a bit baffled.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Hello George and thank you for coming in!
> It's nice to see something other than "There is no problem" or "You are overreacting" or "There is no design flaw, it's probably the fans making noises" coming from a REP and that's all I have been hearing this far.
> I have been sharing my thoughts and doubts on these units but if you'd like my re-hashed input on the matter, I'll do that gladly.
> There's also 50+ pages thread on the Corsair forum titled "H100 pump noise" and there you would find many people who RMAed the units 3-4 times to no avail (speaking of which, the supposedly introduced RMA test-before-shipping methodology must be flawed).
> I have previously tried to talk to tech support about this but they weren't interested and replied that "it's bigger than you might know" etc. so I thought maybe it is, but I shared my thoughts with everyone anyway so someday someone might benefit from it - sorry if you didn't want the details of the design shared...
> As for the RMA rates and adapters, I know that the volume of those units that you sell must be big so the RMA rates do seem usually low, but all I can say is that I have to his day sent out well over a hundred adapters, mainly for H80s and H100. Also, I'm not Corsair, so I couldn't afford to send all of them for free, so I have been asking to cover the shipping cost and the parts (to some extent) but if someone didn't they still got the adapter. Success rate of those adapters is somewhere between the 90% and 95% mark and while I have repeatedly highlighted that it's not a real fix - more of a patch - it works quite well for what it is.
> .


I'd like to say thanks - it's kind of embarrassing that an end-user like yourself had to step up when something fell between the cracks, but thanks for doing it. If you don't mind, can you email me directly at [email protected] so I can ask you a couple questions and bring you into the loop on the proposed final solution?

I can tell you for sure that one of the reasons that the issue is hard to track down is that it normally doesn't present itself if your PSU is running the +12V rail at anything less than +12.2V. The problem is that the +12V rail is technically within ATX specification from +11.4V to +12.6V, so people could have a PSU running at +12.3V or something, and get a noisy H100 on it. Then they RMA the unit, and because the root cause is the PSU voltage being handled incorrectly, the problem shows up again for them.

This explains why people who get one bad unit could get another and another and another, but most people don't have the problem at all.

Since the launch of the H80/H100 late last summer, we've sold phenomenal amounts of these things. Add in H60 and the number's even higher. Luckily we're pretty sure we have a fix and I'll post it here when we do.


----------



## SurprisePizza

I've got an H100 that I was about to RMA (back to the retailer, as I'm in the UK I'd have to pay international shipping to send it back to Corsair). It's not massively noisy, but it is clearly audible over the fans (for reference, the pump is showing as running between 2166 and 2250 rpm, on a 12.288 +12V rail). Do you think I should continue with the RMA, or should I wait for the fix?


----------



## Berto1286

Until we get the official fix, which is nice to hear if indeed it's true, I can confirm this voltage drop fix works well.

My OCZ 850W gold was putting out 12.17 V. My H80 started making the HDD noise and no flick or thump would fix it. Laying the case on its side did fix the noise, but no amount of time made the fix permanent when standing the tower up. I went and got two of the aforementioned 1N4001 voltage correcting diodes and a molex power extension. I put one diode in, fired it up and the sound was better and sometimes gone. Flicks and thumps made a difference. I added another diode, and the sound was gone. Mobo fan speeds started at ~2200 one diode went to ~2000 and two diodes, sound stopped at ~1750. Temps are unchanged. Obviously the fans connected to the H80 controller run a little slower.

Rob


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> I'd like to say thanks - it's kind of embarrassing that an end-user like yourself had to step up when something fell between the cracks, but thanks for doing it. If you don't mind, can you email me directly at [email protected] so I can ask you a couple questions and bring you into the loop on the proposed final solution?


I already have sent you an e-mail, my address is wojciech.wlw at the gmail, please check your box - maybe it went into a spam folder.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> I can tell you for sure that one of the reasons that the issue is hard to track down is that it normally doesn't present itself if your PSU is running the +12V rail at anything less than +12.2V. The problem is that the +12V rail is technically within ATX specification from +11.4V to +12.6V, so people could have a PSU running at +12.3V or something, and get a noisy H100 on it. Then they RMA the unit, and because the root cause is the PSU voltage being handled incorrectly, the problem shows up again for them.
> This explains why people who get one bad unit could get another and another and another, but most people don't have the problem at all.


I have to agree and disagree at the same time. I have myself, same as you, speculated some time ago that the PSU might be contributing to the issue, based on the replacements presenting the same problem for many people, but the H100 I had was grinding on a Corsair HX 850W (powered off 230V) that produced a perfect 12,00 V (measured with volt meter). That's why I have previously speculated that perhaps a voltage noise (ripple) might be a factor in conjunction with the voltage. The extreme case was with a man from Poland also, who also had a Corsair PSU (AX 1200 I think) and he RMAed the H100 7 times, each time getting the same issue, and ended returning the unit for a refund.
Based on my statistics I do agree that the issue is more common among people with "12,3V PSUs" but it's not exclusive to that condition.


----------



## yug3sh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> I already have sent you an e-mail, my address is wojciech.wlw at the gmail, please check your box - maybe it went into a spam folder.
> I have to agree and disagree at the same time. I have myself, same as you, speculated some time ago that the PSU might be contributing to the issue, based on the replacements presenting the same problem for many people, but the H100 I had was grinding on a Corsair HX 850W (powered off 230V) that produced a perfect 12,00 V (measured with volt meter). That's why I have previously speculated that perhaps a voltage noise (ripple) might be a factor in conjunction with the voltage. The extreme case was with a man from Poland also, who also had a Corsair PSU (AX 1200 I think) and he RMAed the H100 7 times, each time getting the same issue, and ended returning the unit for a refund.
> Based on my statistics I do agree that the issue is more common among people with "12,3V PSUs" but it's not exclusive to that condition.


I can reassert that this isn't necessarily a voltage issue. My PSU is putting out a constant 12.288v. My H80 is making the aweful grinding noise... I built the voltage dropper, which dropped my H80 pump speed from about 2238rpm to around ~2000rpm. The grinding noise got *louder* after I used the voltage dropper. Maybe I didn't drop the voltage enough... I know some people have had success when the pump is around 1700-1800rpm (using a fan controller).

Either way, hopefully Corsair come out with a fix soon, and I can do my 5th (and final) RMA to resolve this problem!


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayWill411*
> 
> Thanks wlw. So I guess my question still comes back to, how do I get the voltage and the RPM signal onto the same cable so I can both change the voltage and view the RPM on one header of the fan controller like the guy in the video? I'm a bit baffled.


Sorry to quote myself but I was thinking about this more this morning. I assume I would need to get the second cable on the H100 patched into the Molex power cable so that it essentially creates one cable with both power and the tachometer that I could then plug into one header on the fan controller? Would this require cutting and soldering or are there Y cables out there that can bring the two together? I wish I knew more about this stuff. I've been building computers for a long time, but have never taken the time to really dig into power, voltage, fan connections, and what all these wires are actually doing. I really should have a better idea of the power and voltage aspect of a PC.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> First off - this thread has been read. From page 1 to 21. I've read every post.
> To be honest, I'm still fairly surprised. I don't monitor our forums too closely or work in our customer support, but I do see our RMA rates, and they aren't anything out of the usual. I'm working with our in-house engineers and with CoolIT in Calgary to come up with a fix for this one - we're pretty sure you guys have the cause nailed down, so we'll verify it and fix it.
> For those of you who've had multiple bad units, all I can say is that we'll do you right. I'll work out something once we have a fix in place. It's absolutely unacceptable to have multiple failures back to back, and it seems there's some lot code differences, so once we nail down the root cause and have a fix, I'll be sure to get you guys the info.
> In the meantime, I appreciate your patience. I appreciate your troubleshooting skills, and I apologize again for the stress.
> I've been at Corsair for 8 years, ever cooler, power supply, fan, and case has my input and personal seal of approval and it pisses me off when something like this happens.
> Email me if you have questions: [email protected]
> I'll post back here when I have a fix - which will be provided free of charge to those of you who want it. I can't provide more details until I know more, but I'll have more info as soon as I can.


This is one of the best responses from Corsair on this issue, I really mean that CorsairGeorge, a lot of us have been really going through some issues with the new H series coolers. It wasn't that Corsair was not being responsive, but the attitude of the responses. WWLW was banned from Corsair's website when he started talking about the voltage dropper, which he made for free for instance. I am glad someone at Corsair is really looking into this, thanks for your response. I am on the 2nd RMA, and it is pretty quiet so far.


----------



## wlw wl

JayWill411 - It would have to be something like this:

http://www.angela.pl/galerie/a/aab-adapter-4pin-molex-3_14070.jpg

only with a female 4-pin Molex, not a male one.
Or maybe his controller can regulate one fan output while showing the RPM from another, then you could connect it easily.
I don't know what the guy on that video used, try asking him maybe.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

After a conference call this morning we have a couple of paths to work on - it's not 100% a voltage issue. We've actually been able to eliminate the issue by dropping the pump RPM to ~1800 *AND* by upping the pump RPM to ~2700. Which means there are a couple of possible solutions.

I'm on this - it'll get fixed. Thanks for your patience guys.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> After a conference call this morning we have a couple of paths to work on - it's not 100% a voltage issue. We've actually been able to eliminate the issue by dropping the pump RPM to ~1800 *AND* by upping the pump RPM to ~2700. Which means there are a couple of possible solutions.
> 
> I'm on this - it'll get fixed. Thanks for your patience guys.


Glad to hear it's being worked on. I'm still convinced that it's more a mechanical issue:

1) Resonance

2) Critical speed

3) Bearings

4) Mis-alignment

Any of those could be "solved" by adjusting the speed, but that doesn't mean it won't crop up later after some wear and tear.

Looking forward to hearing about a solution though


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> After a conference call this morning we have a couple of paths to work on - it's not 100% a voltage issue. We've actually been able to eliminate the issue by dropping the pump RPM to ~1800 *AND* by upping the pump RPM to ~2700. Which means there are a couple of possible solutions.
> I'm on this - it'll get fixed. Thanks for your patience guys.


This is great news! It does pose a question though. So I called Corsair customer service on Monday regarding my RMA, and the H100 is out of stock with an ETA for May 31st. The Rep recommended I call back on the 31st, to complete my advanced exchange on both my H100 and the bad stick of Vengeance RAM I have.

So my question is, should I hold off on the H100 RMA until we hear back from you on the status of a fix and how replacements will be handled? Common sense and my gut tells me yes, but I was hoping for some guidance to confirm.


----------



## wlw wl

This is indeed great and relieving news.
And I can't tell you how glad I am that there has finally been some official word on this.

I think that someone should drop an official word over at the official Corsair forum too - I can't, I'm banned from there for the adapters.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> JayWill411 - It would have to be something like this:
> http://www.angela.pl/galerie/a/aab-adapter-4pin-molex-3_14070.jpg
> only with a female 4-pin Molex, not a male one.
> Or maybe his controller can regulate one fan output while showing the RPM from another, then you could connect it easily.
> I don't know what the guy on that video used, try asking him maybe.


Ahh excellent thank you. In looking at that cable, I'd guess the tachometer side would need to be a male receptor, so the H100 cable can plug into it like it would on a motherboard header ... in addition to the 4pin molex being female. Basically a flip flop of the image you posted.

I'm pretty sure I get it now ... I needed to see a visual to piece it all together. Now it's time to dig around for a cable.

Thanks again wlw! Your support on the H100 has been invaluable.


----------



## expy

Nice to see that they're taking this issue very seriously, I was just about to email them regarding the annoying noise.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> bwebmasta - would you share your lot #? Just curious if there will be any relation between when the units were made and the problems.
> Also if you ever get to remove the lid from the unit, I'd very much like a photo of the fan controller board


I will post the lot number up tonight, need to get it off the box.


----------



## gregoire

My H100 is connected to my Zalman ZM-MFC3 and betweem 1000 and 2100 rpm it's grinding, I am very disapointed with my H100 and I really don't know what to do with it ???

It's the only audible thing in my PC and it's very annoying.

Any idea on what should be done in Switzerland with such a bad product (I only speak about my H100) ?


----------



## wlw wl

The nearest location for an RMA would be the hub in The Netherlands, as with the symptoms that you described, it seems the only option for now - 1000 RPM will most likely impact the unit's efficiency and I don't think you have the means to run it at >2700RPM either


----------



## JayWill411

So I couldn't find a cable that had the connectors I would need to get both power and the RPM reading to the fan controller, but I found a place that will make one for me. This is the diagram I sent them with what I need. Sorry for the crudeness but my MS Paint skills have never been great.











This should accomplish what I'm trying to do I think?


----------



## gregoire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> The nearest location for an RMA would be the hub in The Netherlands, as with the symptoms that you described, it seems the only option for now - 1000 RPM will most likely impact the unit's efficiency and I don't think you have the means to run it at >2700RPM either


I don't know if it's silent below 1000 rpm : I haven't tested, is this safe for the H100 ?


----------



## wlw wl

JayWill411 - Yes it should, just tell them that the red wire goes to +12V, not +5V pin on the female Molex.

gregoire - I would think not - the cooling efficiency at that RPM will be severely affected and your CPU will most likely overheat and shut down. I've recently seen someone whose H100 started going at 1000 RPM by itself, it led to 50 Celsius idle and over 80 degrees under load. A killer temperature for both the CPU and the pump (it's rated at 70).


----------



## JayWill411

Just in case some of you hadn't seen, but to coincide with Corsair George's comments here, Ram Guy put up an official statement on the Corsair Support forums earlier today.

http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107252

I'm really pleased with the positive turn this has taken. Hopefully all of us will be able to fully enjoy our Hydro series coolers soon.


----------



## AMD4ME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayWill411*
> 
> Just in case some of you hadn't seen, but to coincide with Corsair George's comments here, Ram Guy put up an official statement on the Corsair Support forums earlier today.
> http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107252
> I'm really pleased with the positive turn this has taken. Hopefully all of us will be able to fully enjoy our Hydro series coolers soon.


This is an unfortunate and disappointing situation. Corsair seems to be having a lot of issues with their outsourced products be it PSUs, CLCs, SSDs, or other products quite similar to OCZ's situation.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD4ME*
> 
> This is an unfortunate and disappointing situation. Corsair seems to be having a lot of issues with their outsourced products be it PSUs, CLCs, SSDs, or other products quite similar to OCZ's situation.


Welcome to what can and does happen when you outsource...

There is an article in CIO magazine that goes in depth about many tech leaders are bringing several things back in house. Some of the reasons are obvious.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwebmasta*
> 
> Welcome to what can and does happen when you outsource...
> There is an article in CIO magazine that goes in depth about many tech leaders are bringing several things back in house. Some of the reasons are obvious.


To be fair, almost all hardware is outsourced to some degree. Nobody makes everything. And even the stuff assembled in-house is bought with components from elsewhere.

To be fully integrated you'd need to own the business that mines the material from the earth, the business the refines it, the business that packages and ships it, the business that combines those materials to make other materials - all the way to the business that sells the final product to you on the street corner. Nobody's that vertically integrated anymore.

So the question, from a production standpoint, becomes - how do you do quality control with your vendors? How do you certify a factory or vendor to sell you components?

On the big list of manufacturers, we are one of the most picky. Ask any of our vendors for power supplies, cases, coolers - we've heard questions like "Why do you want the capacitor changed? It's not over spec, and changing it will cost 3 cents more!" and things. The stock mentality of many manufacturers is "cheaper is better".

So one of our big assets, (ironically, for this thread), is actually our quality control. I know it might not seem like it, but we have a very thorough quality control department. They're working on fixes all the time - and we've been hiring new people basically every quarter to keep up with demand.

The important things to remember when you see Corsair complaint threads on forums:
1. We sell a ton of parts - we're the #1 guy in liquid coolers for sure, #1 in PSUs in many regions, we're growing cases, audio products, SSDs, etc. Everything is selling in huge volumes and growing every year.
2. Our customers are very likely to be technical. People who build their own PCs and have forums accounts are generally technical people to some degree. They are very good at picking out flaws.
3. Our products are premium quality and thus have higher expectations, justifiably. Pay $20 for an aircooler and the fan vibrates? Throw it away and get another $3 fan for it. Pay $80 for a liquid cooler and the fan vibrates? I'd be more upset for sure.
4. We respond - and we have forums guys reading these threads and commenting. So now a lot of people post their complaint threads hoping we'll see them and post in them - and it works. It works very well, because the standard customer service response has cracks and crevices and sometimes people fall through them. This is a way to fill in some of the cracks.

So when you talk about outsourcing, of course there's a risk, but the companies that own factories are not the same companies that know which features go on which product and where the products should be priced and sold.

Our strength as a brand is directly based on your feedback. We try and build parts that you want to buy. My end goal is to ask you guys what you want, then find the right guy to make it, and then sell it to you at a fair price. If we do this right, you get the product you want at the price you want, I get to make a little bit of money on the deal, and a factory somewhere gets to keep busy.

I get paid to define specifications for power supplies, cases, and coolers. Talking to you guys helps me do that job. I'm not in customer service, I'm the product manager. So when you guys say "It should be a thicker radiator and cost $5 less" then I get to look into whether that's viable and how to do it.

And this thread is helping me fix one of my products that has a problem for some people, so it's very useful. I guarantee you the factory making these things would have never stumbled upon this thread.


----------



## wlw wl

Well I have to agree, one thing you can't say about Corsair is that your OEMs are "China Garage INC." kind of companies, but known brands like Seasonic.

I also agree that with premium price come premium expectations and premium complaints when something is off


----------



## AMD4ME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Well I have to agree, one thing you can't say about Corsair is that your OEMs are "China Garage INC." kind of companies, but known brands like Seasonic.
> I also agree that with premium price come premium expectations and premium complaints when something is off


Not all Corsair vendors are premium vendors IMO as reflected in the number of defective products shipped, recalled, etc.


----------



## Snipes

I joined this forum specifically because I recently bought a H100 and was experiencing the grinding noise (batch 11499403). After reading this thread (prior to the post from CorsairGeorge) it sounded as if Corsair wanted nothing to do with it which 1) made me not want to RMA the unit [fearing receiving a unit with the same issue] and 2) dropped my estimation of Corsair across the board.

I PM'ed wlw wl and have to say, as many have previously, a massive thank you - I received the adapter today and it has eliminated the noise completely. Previously the rpm was ~2200, it is now stable at 1950 (steady 12.192v on a 750W modular PSU).

For the price, and my personal customer expectation of Corsair, I have to say I was desperately disappointed with this product. Thankfully, due to the kindness for a fellow tech enthusiast, my issue is now solved - but at an additional cost (no disrespect to wlw wl) that should never had been needed.

I am glad to see that a representative of Corsair is now actively involved in discussion for a solution and that this issue has now been 'officially' recognised on the Corsair forum. I hope that this will lead to changes in Corsairs internal processes to prevent such failures occurring again in future.

Appreciating CorsairGeorges' comments, having since read them, and appreciated the non-vertical integration and growth points I still have to say, in my opinion, it does not excuse a multi-national company such as Corsair from making such a fundamental mistake for a major product line.

All that being said the main thing I want to come from my first, and probable last post, is a huge thank you to wlw wl. 5 GHz here I come!


----------



## diaz

Thanks corsair George! Bought three H coolers, 2 x H80, and 1 H100.. only my last H80 has the "click"/grind.. It isn't "loud", but it is still audible even with fans going @ around 1000-1500rpm . I'll give it a shot with a diode in a few weeks if the noise is still there.


----------



## mikk_

Hello all overclockers







I recently bought this low reputation h100 cooler and I also got the same grinding noise from it. Well first thing I did, contacted wlw wl for one of these adapters. Didn't work for me though. Then I contacted the seller and they told me to bring the unit to them and get replacement. Did that and got replacement straight away but when I got home and tried if it had the same problem and there it was. Grinding louder than previous unit that I had altough it isn't grinding always as I'm tapping the pump the noise dissappears and when tapping again it instantly starts grinding. Seems to me that there's some part that is loose inside so when tapping the unit some of the parts inside gets out of it's place and starts grinding.... Now I'm asking them to get my money back and will never touch these closed system units again. Sorry for the furious text but im pretty unsatisfied right now about these coolers.







Gonna try the good old air cooling for a while.









ps. sorry for bad english.


----------



## wlw wl

Snipes - thanks for your kind words and good luck with the OC







I think now that it was officially acknowledged, the fix will be rolled out sooner or later and future revisions will not have any issue of this kind.

mikk_ - well that unfortunately happens sometimes - the diode patch works in ~90% of the cases, you're just unlucky (or there is some X factor that determines that 10%). These symptoms on the replacement cooler are with, or without the adapter?


----------



## HighwayStar

Honestly I think some sort of "fix" is already out. After returning my grinding one for another I got one that doesn't grind. But Instead it surges when I boot up my computer if I have the fans plugged into it. I seem to be the only one with this problem though so maybe mine is a different issue. But definitely after reading the representatives post I feel somewhat better and not ripped off. Maybe I'll give this company another chance..


----------



## wlw wl

It's not out yet, you just got lucky that your replacement was actually better.

By surging you mean that it runs the fans at full speed for a couple of seconds and then slows down? Actually that is a normal behavior as far as I know. It's also common among the motherboards to run all the fans briefly at 100% at startup, shutdown or both.


----------



## deathrow9

I returned 2 H100s with the same noise. Either were purchased from Frys or Microcenter. Shame on Corsair, such an awesome product but the HDD noise is bull when I have only an SSD in my rig.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Okay quick update guys - we've tracked down the root cause, it's a tolerance issue in the ceramic bearing around the pump shaft. It affects only a small number of units, but we've immediately tightened the screening process for these components so we can assure this won't happen any longer in production.

Once we have the new production units in-house, I'll post a method for those of you who want them to RMA your unit for them.

Keeping you updated as promised - I'll post more when we have the units in-house.

I can tell you the overall return rate on H100 is very, very low single digits. Like, below a mortgage rate. I realize that doesn't help those of you with the problem, but if you haven't purchased one yet, keep in mind that for every person with an H100 problem there's almost 100 people without a problem.


----------



## mikk_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> mikk_ - well that unfortunately happens sometimes - the diode patch works in ~90% of the cases, you're just unlucky (or there is some X factor that determines that 10%). These symptoms on the replacement cooler are with, or without the adapter?


I know that it has worked for most of the users and I'm happy with that and I appreciate all your work on this don't get me wrong. It is just that when you return your defective unit and don't expect new one to be defective at all







And yes, I tried it with the adapter, rpm dropped to -2000rpm. And as I thought it is something that is loose inside the pump. Well I got my money back and will be using air cooling or custom loop now on.
Really big thanks to wlw wl and all of you








Nice to see that corsair has found the problem.


----------



## expy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> Okay quick update guys - we've tracked down the root cause, it's a tolerance issue in the ceramic bearing around the pump shaft. It affects only a small number of units, but we've immediately tightened the screening process for these components so we can assure this won't happen any longer in production.
> Once we have the new production units in-house, I'll post a method for those of you who want them to RMA your unit for them.
> Keeping you updated as promised - I'll post more when we have the units in-house.
> I can tell you the overall return rate on H100 is very, very low single digits. Like, below a mortgage rate. I realize that doesn't help those of you with the problem, but if you haven't purchased one yet, keep in mind that for every person with an H100 problem there's almost 100 people without a problem.


I hope that Corsair will offer a fair RMA procedure for those affected by the issue (for Canadian customers as well) since it -is- a manufacturing oversight and in essence, "defective"/"not working as intended".


----------



## Jacer200

Darn it. I just put together my very first gaming rig two weeks ago and I just happen to get the H100 batch 12129403 and within a week the buzzing started. I contacted wlw to see if I can get his molex hack so I can at least get my girlfriend off my back about the noise. What does everyone think if the molex hack works should I just let it be. Or should I rma it as soon as the fixed batches come out? And I've never had to rma anything before so this would be my first time.


----------



## Kaytfoh

I really hope they do offer a decent RMA process, as I cannot suffer the downtime caused by it, I'd have to fit a temporary cooler which means more effort on my part to fix something that shouldn't be broken.

My rattling is more intermittent, it can come on at any time and go at any time. It's not that consistent unfortunately, so with my luck I'd send it back and they wouldn't find an issue with it.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

I promise we'll make the RMA process as pain-free as possible.


----------



## Insomiyeah

I hope someone can post a method soon (I am not trying to sound hesitated but I am so excited). At the same time I don't want to be someone who is going to RMA it's H100 for more then 3-5 times because each one of them seem to be faulty.


----------



## expy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> I promise we'll make the RMA process as pain-free as possible.


Thanks, hopefully the new batch comes soon.


----------



## HighwayStar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> It's not out yet, you just got lucky that your replacement was actually better.
> By surging you mean that it runs the fans at full speed for a couple of seconds and then slows down? Actually that is a normal behavior as far as I know. It's also common among the motherboards to run all the fans briefly at 100% at startup, shutdown or both.


It actually does this. Here is the thread I made about it with video.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1259050/slight-surge-in-power-when-starting-new-build-video

I can't seem to really win 100%.


----------



## Q9650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> I promise we'll make the RMA process as pain-free as possible.


this is my 4th h100 that i replaced from the retailer (scan malta). i am still under the return policy so i won`t rma my h100.

When could we expect the new "FIXED" h100s to be available? and how can we identify them?....maybe with new batch codes?

I had to run my pump with 2x 1N4007 diodes to eliminate the grinding noise, but i was pushing only 10.5volts to the h100 which is quiet low so i reverted to 12.1volts

I will wait for the revised h100 to arrive to europe and hopefully scan malta will exchange my h100 for the LAST time!!!


----------



## wlw wl

I'm actually wondering if it will be H100 REV 2.0 or just the screening process will be tighter to eliminate the units with loose shaft/bearing from ever reaching the stores.

The first solution would have to result in a) a recall of "old" H60/80/100 or b) a price drop of those units, which would then sell like hot cakes when people would figure out that they can be fixed relatively easily. I feel NDA coming


----------



## gregoire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> I promise we'll make the RMA process as pain-free as possible.


Great, that mean it will be FREE and you send us the new unit FIRST such that we won't have to put another CPU Cooler on it while waiting,
In that case I would think it to be fair to customer.


----------



## Hellknight

Hey,

I received my voltage dropper today, it's working fine so no need to return the item to the store.








I've got no temperature rise on a OC'ed 2700K (4.6Ghz).

Many thanks wlw.


----------



## slizza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregoire*
> 
> Great, that mean it will be FREE and you send us the new unit FIRST such that we won't have to put another CPU Cooler on it while waiting,
> In that case I would think it to be fair to customer.


This, any other solution will be massively inconvenient and a expense i can not afford.

Corsair have really let me down with this product.


----------



## NAWZ77

i wonder if i buy mine straight from corsair will i get a good one now you have the fix


----------



## Dutambalu

Im crossing my fingers for a Advance RMA service, so that we have no downtime . And also maybe a shortening the screws ? I ended up bending some of the fins while screwing them in







Corsair make it happen!


----------



## Q9650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dutambalu*
> 
> Im crossing my fingers for a Advance RMA service, so that we have no downtime . And also maybe a shortening the screws ? I ended up bending some of the fins while screwing them in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair make it happen!


bending the fins is fine on the h100 as the fully tightened screws never touch the water channels in fact the screw is next to the water channel...so totally safe!


----------



## fc0712

i will rma my h100 and hope i will get one that works


----------



## luca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> I can tell you the overall return rate on H100 is very, very low single digits. Like, below a mortgage rate. I realize that doesn't help those of you with the problem, but if you haven't purchased one yet, keep in mind that for every person with an H100 problem there's almost 100 people without a problem.


Are you sure? I guess yours are just small talks and not true statistics. 4 units bought (different retailers!!), 4 units more noisy than an ice grinder at full power, 4 units returned under DSR. the 5th is coming. And I'll go on like that until I'll find one working well, just because I do NOT want to unscrew my motherboard because of a fault of yours. I'd like to know the other 396 people (or 495 in a couple of days?) who have a well working H60.


----------



## mikk_

I think the reason for numbers being low is, because some people are not complaining about it or think that the noise is something that is meant to be there.
Well that's just my opinion.
I can imagine how frustrating is to rma new unit 4-5 times for same problem. I returned two units and it was enough for me to move back to air cooling.


----------



## ajresendez

Keep us updated I just purchased an H100 from Amazon and it had the pump noise as soon as I turned it on. I was going to return it since i did not want to go through 4+ replacements, but since you guys have found the cause and can actually fix it now I may just wait till the rma details come out and do that.


----------



## Q9650

it`s amazing or disappointing so much h100`s are out there with noisy pumps! corsair must pull them from the retail channels immediately!!!


----------



## Insomiyeah

Tomorrow I will contact corsair, but does anyone know how long it will approximately take? I mean regarding to the NEW units they are producing. how lonw will it take to rma them since I live in the Netherlands.


----------



## wlw wl

AFAIK it will take some time before the fix is in place, wait for official confirmation before doing any RMAs for the noise.

I suggested that they deploy a "field fix" such as a variant of an adapter for those unwilling or unable to replace the whole unit, I don't know if that will be an option, nothing is final yet, it's still being evaluated.
That would still be more of a patch or workaround than an actual fix, but some might be still interested in such a solution for many reasons.

I have exchanged my findings with Corsair's and CoolIT's engineers, to some they agreed, to some they did not, but remember that it's not just engineers, there are accountants and marketing people too, so they can't make it happen in a week.


----------



## Q9650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insomiyeah*
> 
> Tomorrow I will contact corsair, but does anyone know how long it will approximately take? I mean regarding to the NEW units they are producing. how lonw will it take to rma them since I live in the Netherlands.


AFAIK corsair handles rma in the netherlands so go and drop it there


----------



## MeanBruce

That is one very cute baby wlw, congrats! If you are not already signed by Corsair, you should be my friend. Great looking Mk III, nice work bud!


----------



## MeanBruce

deleted, off-topic


----------



## wlw wl

MeanBruce - thanks for kind words, they mean a lot







And that photo is a bit old, he's 3 now, but I like it very much.

And I can't help but notice that in your second post you might be answering to something that isn't here or that I don't see?


----------



## terferi

I was actually going to buy a H100. Should I get something else instead? Or is there something that I can buy to prevent any problems. I am not skilled enough to make anything. Thanks

Will this work?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119149


----------



## Smoke1991

I joined just to post this. I just finished a new build for myself The H100 unit I have has the noise, so after researching I tried the Diode mod, 1 4001 unit did not work, but two did. My pump is now hovering around 1750 and after running aida64 stress testing in a climate controlled room (with the fans set at 1000RPM, pwm controlled by the motherboard) +/- 1 degree (we can consider this room for error). I can also agree with everyone else, my H100 was the loudest item in my case lol!

I also modded the fan controller that came with the case (which I am not using at all) and put a molex connector on one of the fan output wires. plugged the H100 pump to it. my sound goes away around the 1800-1850 mark. This gives me a good idea as to what my H100's sweet spot is. Ill just be sticking with the molex bridge I made with the two n4001 diodes as its smaller and "tuckable"

I really would appreciate a "working" unit when it becomes available, this thing is a pure PITA to remove/replace so hopefully they get it right! I feel a bit better after reading the post that George made. It took long enough for them to acknowledge this thread as well. I also feel when the solution does come available (probably new units). That there should be no shipping cost what so ever to mail the defective units back regardless if we are doing a regular RMA or Advanced RMA. Also as others have mentioned, we all paid a premium for a premium cooler and were let down. So throw in some free swag, or something







I was severely thinking about returning the unit and spending the extra 50 to get a water cooling kit mentioned earlier in this thread.

If you want to see my Worklog for my computer, here is a link: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1694052

I am running 4 akasa viper fans in P/P using a 1 to 4 split pwm cable (uses 1 molex to power all 4 fans, 1 pwm wire powers all the fans)

I want to say thank you to *wlw wl* for being a great supporter for this online community. And for the help.

As for my unit# It is: 12099403 (From tiger direct)

EDIT: Id also like to add that the Molex connector for the H100 is cheap, the 12v pin keeps popping out...


----------



## Q9650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smoke1991*
> 
> I joined just to post this. I just finished a new build for myself The H100 unit I have has the noise, so after researching I tried the Diode mod, 1 4001 unit did not work, but two did. My pump is now hovering around 1750 and after running aida64 stress testing in a climate controlled room (with the fans set at 1000RPM, pwm controlled by the motherboard) +/- 1 degree (we can consider this room for error). I can also agree with everyone else, my H100 was the loudest item in my case lol!
> I also modded the fan controller that came with the case (which I am not using at all) and put a molex connector on one of the fan output wires. plugged the H100 pump to it. my sound goes away around the 1800-1850 mark. This gives me a good idea as to what my H100's sweet spot is. Ill just be sticking with the molex bridge I made with the two n4001 diodes as its smaller and "tuckable"
> I really would appreciate a "working" unit when it becomes available, this thing is a pure PITA to remove/replace so hopefully they get it right! I feel a bit better after reading the post that George made. It took long enough for them to acknowledge this thread as well. I also feel when the solution does come available (probably new units). That there should be no shipping cost what so ever to mail the defective units back regardless if we are doing a regular RMA or Advanced RMA. Also as others have mentioned, we all paid a premium for a premium cooler and were let down. So throw in some free swag, or something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was severely thinking about returning the unit and spending the extra 50 to get a water cooling kit mentioned earlier in this thread.
> If you want to see my Worklog for my computer, here is a link: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1694052
> I am running 4 akasa viper fans in P/P using a 1 to 4 split pwm cable (uses 1 molex to power all 4 fans, 1 pwm wire powers all the fans)
> I want to say thank you to *wlw wl* for being a great supporter for this online community. And for the help.
> As for my unit# It is: 12099403 (From tiger direct)
> EDIT: Id also like to add that the Molex connector for the H100 is cheap, the 12v pin keeps popping out...


as advised by ramguy running the h100 with 2 diodes is not recommended as you are not supplying enough voltage to power the pump+fancontroller+fans! you should run the h100 with no less than 11.4volts and i am sure that with 2 diodes you are running 10.5volts. my h100 is not quiet with 1 diode (but with 2 diodes like yours) it is silent at 10.5volts but i reverted to 12v as i dont want to damage the pump as i have to return it to the store from where i bought it when the good h100s arrive ! you have be warned


----------



## Smoke1991

At
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Q9650*
> 
> as advised by ramguy running the h100 with 2 diodes is not recommended as you are not supplying enough voltage to power the pump+fancontroller+fans! you should run the h100 with no less than 11.4volts and i am sure that with 2 diodes you are running 10.5volts. my h100 is not quiet with 1 diode (but with 2 diodes like yours) it is silent at 10.5volts but i reverted to 12v as i dont want to damage the pump as i have to return it to the store from where i bought it when the good h100s arrive ! you have be warned


as i mentioned, i have no fans running off the H100 block. Also, with the two inline i believe its slightly higher than 10.5

min voltage I measured before i loose RPM signal from the H100 is around 7 volts (around 1200 RPM)

So i have plenty of leeway. Im sure if i was running the four fans off the H100 ( why would I when the MB supports PWM funtion) I would need to worry.

Also what about all the other members running there H100's using a fan controller....... Im sure im only one of many that are running it at around 1750-1800 RPM

I double check the Voltage output tomorrow morning. also link me to where Ram guy said this.

Also go back a few pages.. post 225. George states that they got to reproduce our solution by running it at 1800 rpm. Probably by limiting the voltage....


----------



## Flick75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> I can tell you the overall return rate on H100 is very, very low single digits. Like, below a mortgage rate. I realize that doesn't help those of you with the problem, but if you haven't purchased one yet, keep in mind that for every person with an H100 problem there's almost 100 people without a problem.


I/we really appreciate the fact that you're involved in this and helping us.

That said, what statistic/number do you look at? I've seen multiple....meaning more than 100 people say they've returned at least 2 units with the noise. That's equal to at least 200 units and I'm guessing based on ww's info and my personal forums searches, that there are way more than that. Your statement, along with information on multiple forums, would lead me to believe that the perceived return rate between H80's and H100's is extremely skewed.

I guess I'd really like to know what number is in the single digits based on the number of sales world wide? I happened to buy one H80 unit off of amazon and it had batch number 12019402. It had the chatter problem until I installed ww's diode fix I bought at radio shack.


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smoke1991*
> 
> Id also like to add that the Molex connector for the H100 is cheap, the 12v pin keeps popping out...


Thanks! And that is a fact, the Molex connector isn't of particularly great quality, it seems that the pins and the housing are mismatched. One of the pins broke off in the H100 I had.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Q9650*
> 
> as advised by ramguy running the h100 with 2 diodes is not recommended as you are not supplying enough voltage to power the pump+fancontroller+fans! you should run the h100 with no less than 11.4volts and i am sure that with 2 diodes you are running 10.5volts. my h100 is not quiet with 1 diode (but with 2 diodes like yours) it is silent at 10.5volts but i reverted to 12v as *i dont want to damage the pump* as i have to return it to the store from where i bought it when the good h100s arrive ! you have be warned


The fan controller part of the unit runs off 3,3V supplied by an LDO, so as far as you keep the input voltage above the LDO's minimum input voltage, the fan controller will work (RPM reporting as well). The specified minimum input voltage for this regulator is Vo + 1V, so it's 4,3V. Smoke1991 suggests the RPM signal drops at 7V, this might be due to the IC shutting down or the pump actually stopping, either way there's no point in going that low.
The pump will slow down because the reference voltage for a voltage divider that sets the RPM will change, but it's hard to notice any difference in cooling efficiency while it's running at 1700RPM as compared to 2100RPM. Slightly different solution than that voltage divider would allow the pump to maintain the RPM even when slightly undervolted.
The actual difference might be coming from the fans connected to the unit, which will have lower maximum speed when the voltage is lower, and it's probably the only downside of lowering the voltage supplied to the unit that I can see.
Therefore I do not see how one could damage the unit this way - by lowering the voltage, but keeping it reasonably high (above 10V).


----------



## fc0712

is it normal that the radiator makes a lot of noise too?


----------



## Q9650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fc0712*
> 
> is it normal that the radiator makes a lot of noise too?


radiators don`t make any sort of noise....the only noise (if you can call it so) you may hear is the water+air travelling in the loop but this occurs briefly when first starting the h100 for the first time


----------



## Smoke1991

with the two diodes inline im getting 10.6 on my multimeter. So -1.4 total off.. Unfortunately I cant test using my the fan controller I mentioned earlier due to its interaction with my foot earlier this morning







One thing I can add, from looking at the now demolished Fan controller, There is a diode already attached that looks identical to the diodes we are using to get out voltage drops. I cant really read the full part # without cutting it off the board but it does begin with "N" and is a 100X series unit. I guess most if not all fan controllers perform some form of voltage drop regardless if the setting is at 100%

If I can recall, the min this pump was able to run before i got an N/A message was about a 1200 RPM. I agree with wlw about it not harming the unit, if anything it should prolong the life of the motor inside the pump.


----------



## wlw wl

The diode in the fan controller is most likely an anti-surge diode connected in reverse parallel to the output to protect the power transistor from back EMF from the motor.


----------



## Smoke1991

Dude, your right... You sir know your stuff! Just looked and traced the paths on the circuit board it self.


----------



## Degree

Do you guys think the H100 is worth it? Or should I go with a HSF like DH-14?


----------



## JayWill411

Welp my custom cable arrived today. This should do the trick nicely to run both power and the RPM feed to a header on my fan controller. I'll get it connected up tonight and see how it goes.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Do you guys think the H100 is worth it? Or should I go with a HSF like DH-14?


It's still a toss up for me personally, and is more about aesthetics than performance in my eyes. Performance is similar, with a slight edge to the H100 in most circumstances. So the question becomes, do you want a big ugly honking heatsink (sorry Noctua ... your fans are great but they're ugly as sin) hanging off your CPU, or do you want the sweet sleekness of the H100? I opted for the latter.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayWill411*
> 
> It's still a toss up for me personally, and is more about aesthetics than performance in my eyes. Performance is similar, with a slight edge to the H100 in most circumstances. So the question becomes, do you want a big ugly honking heatsink (sorry Noctua ... your fans are great but they're ugly as sin) hanging off your CPU, or do you want the sweet sleekness of the H100? I opted for the latter.


Yea that's what I was thinking about too, I guess I'll just go with the H100








It'll look good with the NZXT Switch 810 White case I'm getting


----------



## Xefier

Just wanted to follow-up on my H100 purchased via Amazon, lot 12129043.
I received my Molex adapter from wlw wl today (took about a week to get here from Poland to North Carolina), and although I just plugged it in, IT WORKS! My case is back up on its side and the pump is virtually silent; now the loudest thing in my case are the Corsair fans









Pump speed was reduced from ~2150ish to now 1945-2000 RPMs. Idle temperatures are same as before. I hope this is a permanent fix in my case.

THANK YOU SO MUCH WLW WL!









P.S., I love the note you include in the packaging lol.


----------



## baboyizm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xefier*
> 
> Just wanted to follow-up on my H100 purchased via Amazon, lot 12129043.
> I received my Molex adapter from wlw wl today (took about a week to get here from Poland to North Carolina), and although I just plugged it in, IT WORKS! My case is back up on its side and the pump is virtually silent; now the loudest thing in my case are the Corsair fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump speed was reduced from ~2150ish to now 1945-2000 RPMs. Idle temperatures are same as before. I hope this is a permanent fix in my case.
> THANK YOU SO MUCH WLW WL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S., I love the note you include in the packaging lol.


NIce to hear that it worked. My H100 is a few weeks old and has the same lot #. I should be getting my mod soon.


----------



## JayWill411

The cable did the trick! I now have power being supplied via the fan controller and I'm able to get a RPM read out. I had to drop the fan speed to 90% in order to get the sound to stop completely, which puts RPM at about 1,770 and the voltage reading bounces between 10 and 11, so my guess is it's about 10.9v. I know that's below the recommended tolerance but it is what it is. If my pump breaks 1800 RPM the grinding noise comes back. Oddly, it's louder between 91% and 99% than it is at 100%.

Well, at least my machine will be running with just the hum of the fans until the new RMA process is available.

Ahhhhhh .... can you hear that? Either can I.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xefier*
> 
> Just wanted to follow-up on my H100 purchased via Amazon, lot 12129043.
> I received my Molex adapter from wlw wl today (took about a week to get here from Poland to North Carolina), and although I just plugged it in, IT WORKS! My case is back up on its side and the pump is virtually silent; now the loudest thing in my case are the Corsair fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pump speed was reduced from ~2150ish to now 1945-2000 RPMs. Idle temperatures are same as before. I hope this is a permanent fix in my case.
> THANK YOU SO MUCH WLW WL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S., I love the note you include in the packaging lol.


Good stuff, the note he leaves is comedy gold. I guess I lucked up on the RMA replacement on my H100, I have been running it for over 5 days now and it is silent WITHOUT the dropper. So far so good.









I am doing another experiment now, with TIM and fans. I have Corsair fans and Noctua NF-F12's and for TIM I have Diamond 7 and the classic Arctic Silver 5. I am testing out which combinations will give me the lowest temps between TIM, fans, and push/pull configurations. I am doing another thread on this, should be interesting.


----------



## fc0712

when will the new unit come?

under a month?


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fc0712*
> 
> when will the new unit come?
> under a month?


No ETA has been given, but I'd say within a month sounds fair. They aren't necessarily manufacturing new "improved" units, rather tightening their screening process to make sure units with the bearing issue don't end up in the hands of buyers. The fact that they've isolated the root cause of the issue should lead to a fairly quick turnaround I'd think.


----------



## wlw wl

Xefier - another soul saved







I'm glad it worked for you! And the note was serious in some aspects...









JayWill411 - I always say "worry about the temperatures first, then about the RPMs". Good to know you worked it out









bwebmasta - I swapped the stock fans with Gentle Typhoons AP-15 (1850 RPM) and it worked beautifully - silent and very powerful fans. As for the TIMs, it would make sense if you lapped the H100 and especially the CPU, as the IHS's tend to be concave, or otherwise warped, and that will introduce a hard to eliminate variable into your tests, because you might get 4 different results with the same TIM but different order of tightening the screws (it affects how the TIM spreads).


----------



## Kaytfoh

Hello wlw wl, I just recently built my rig (3770k, 16gb ram, revodrive ssd, gtx 690) and my h100 started initially producing the noise fairly constantly. I tried tapping the cabling and the pump and it only seems to get rid of the noise for a short amount of time. Now it seems slightly louder and comes and goes completely randomly.

I would like one of your adapters to try and fix this, I live in the UK so let me know the postage cost and I'd be happy to pay it to have this awful noise gone!

Thanks


----------



## ugotd8

Would love to have one of these for my H80...


----------



## Smoke1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Would love to have one of these for my H80...


your avatar... is awesome

Sorry for going off topic


----------



## wlw wl

Kaytfoh - that means your unit is _almost_ stable, just a little slower and it should be completely silent. YHPM.

Please direct all adapter requests to PM.


----------



## cooldemon

Just wanted to comment on how I solved my H100 Rattling noise and it didn't require any exotic tinkering

In my bios I noted that my 12V rail was 12.1 Volt output and pump rpm about 2150

I bought the following items:

4-Pin Molex naar 3-Pin Fan Adapter (http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/stroomkabels/4-pin-molex-naar-3-pin-fan-adapter.html?sl=NL)
3-Pin Splitter (http://www.highflow.nl/aansluitingen/stroomkabels/3-pin-splitter-y-kabel.html)

I connected them all together with my Scycle fancontroller and its works flawlesly while showing me the rpm (around 2020)

So I solved my H100 noice problem for less them 5 euro (exluding send cost and research cost)


----------



## fc0712

will this work http://www.av-cables.dk/computer_kabler/intern_stroemkabel/blaeser_kabel/intern_4p_3p_stroem_adapter_4536_da.html to connect to my fan controller in the 500r?


----------



## wlw wl

No, first off you'd need a cable with a female Molex connector, this one has male. Second off, aren't the 500R fan controller connectors proprietary?


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> No, first off you'd need a cable with a female Molex connector, this one has male. Second off, aren't the 500R fan controller connectors proprietary?


Yes they're proprietary (which is frustrating). Also, the 500R only has a 3 switch setting, with low-medium-high. Not ideal for controlling the pump speed.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Xefier - another soul saved
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm glad it worked for you! And the note was serious in some aspects...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JayWill411 - I always say "worry about the temperatures first, then about the RPMs". Good to know you worked it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bwebmasta - I swapped the stock fans with Gentle Typhoons AP-15 (1850 RPM) and it worked beautifully - silent and very powerful fans. As for the TIMs, it would make sense if you lapped the H100 and especially the CPU, as the IHS's tend to be concave, or otherwise warped, and that will introduce a hard to eliminate variable into your tests, because you might get 4 different results with the same TIM but different order of tightening the screws (it affects how the TIM spreads).


Whoa...lapping it huh? I have some 2000 grit sandpaper, will that do the trick? I read somewhere on another post about lapping the HS on the H100 got the guy about 5-7C lower temps.

After that, I can try the IC7 and AS5 to see which yields the best results. Right now, I am using all 4 NF-F12's in a push pull config with IC7 as the TIM.


----------



## wlw wl

2000 would be one of the last steps, if not the very last one. You would want to start with 400 or something similar because you have to make it planar first, then worry about smoothness and polish. You'll find a good step-by-step here:
http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=3996931&postcount=35
http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=3996932&postcount=36


----------



## Volcomjd

Hey *WLW_WL* I received your voltage dropper and my H100 is no longer making a grinding noise... So THANK YOU!!! Dziękuję!!!!

My FanXpert is now telling me that my CPU Fan (wich is actually the pump speed of the H100 pump and not the H100 Stock Fans) is between 1889-1950 rpm instead of 2100-2200 rpm. Which I think is still considered safe? I haven't notice any temperature differences for my CPU in FanXpert as well.

Now my question is directed to *CorsairGeorge* (maybe you could also answer this question wlw_wl): since my noise issue has been resolved by the voltage dropper/molex adapter, do you think it is still necessary for me to RMA my H100? In other words, should I continue using the diode adapter? I really don't feel like uninstalling my H100 and having to wait for another unit. If it works with the adapter, why should I replace it? So I guess it all comes down to: is wlw_wl's voltage solution safe to use and do you consider it a long term "non-official Corsair" solution? I know if you represent Corsair, you can't really recommend something that isn't made or assembled by your corporation, but speaking for all of us that are using the adpater and willing to continue using it, is it safe to continue using the adapter?


----------



## Q9650

still no new news on corsair h100 progress?


----------



## bboydp

What worked for me, was hooking my fan onto the Motherboard Fan Chasis slot, which automatically lowered RPM fan speed to 2700rpm, which sounds great now.

Turn off CPU Fan Monitor, or you will get errors.

Temps idle around 36-38C and full burn test around 55-57C.


----------



## helderxlg

Just when i started to get fustrated with my h60 i found this thread. Good news from Corsair, i knew you guys won't let me down.


----------



## bandook

I tried the diode but did not have any success







It actually made it noticeably louder. Took it from 2238rpm to about 2000 though. Thinking about running the whole h100 from a fan header. Has anyone said how many amps to run this thing, pump and 2 fans? I seen one mention of the pump only like 0.14 amps. The fans can't be over 0.20 amps. I think the headers on the Sabertooth provide 1 amp each. Not sure about that though. If I can find out and it will work, i'll just run it like that till I hear something about Corsair having new units. Then I'll have to RMA, I guess. Who knows how long it will take for my local store to run out of stock and reorder some new units. We could be months out. So there goes most local stores return period.

Someone asked earler if they could confirm from Corsair if the diode "fix" is a good solution for those who dont want to bother with an RMA. Well, if this is a part causing the problem, being out of spec or something, then the diode is most likely only postponing the inevitable. I don't plan on settling for just "tolerable" for a unit I paid over a hundred bucks for, and I wouldn't advise anyone else to either.


----------



## wlw wl

Volcomjd - CorsairGeorge is currently on holidays I believe, so you won't get any answers from him until second half of June.
What I can tell you is that if the pump isn't rattling - the operation is smooth - it should be fine for years. On the other hand, running the unit while it's rattling might very well result in premature wear off and damage of the bearing.

bboydp - it's actually half of that so 1350RPM, which is rather low.

bandook - I measured around 140 - 150mA on the H100 without the fans, the pump draws around 100mA, the rest is the fan controller. Even with two fans you're well within the 1A limit.


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> bandook - I measured around 140 - 150mA on the H100 without the fans, the pump draws around 100mA, the rest is the fan controller. Even with two fans you're well within the 1A limit.


Thanks wlw wl. I tried today to hook everything right to the fan header, but it's not working like i thought. Typically, the h100+fans will go 100% then idle down, and it's doing that, but as soon as windows loads the pump and fans run at 100% and won't throttle back. I can turn them down with the Asus AI suite, but it's only allowing manual adjustments and for some reason the fan controller on the h100 is being over ridden. Strange. I should be able to just leave them at 100% and the corsair controller take over. Oh well, i can say that at 890 rpm, there is no noise









Edit: ok, I got it working right. Just had to restart a couple times for settings to stick. As I reduce power, the pump gets progressively louder. Then when I hit 72% on the motherboard controller, all noise suddenly stops and the pump spins at 1375 rpm. I honestly forgot how quiet my system is until now. Nothing like paying good money for a high quality cooler and being forced to run it at 3/4 performance! I got an idea now.... maybe i'll downclock my 3570k to 900mhz and install an old ide hard drive! Woohoo! This is extreme computing folks!


----------



## SoterioN

Just sent you a pm wlw wl re: the adapter.

I have been going crazy w/this noise for past 2-3 weeks. I have been running H100 w/4 Cougar Vortex fans in a HAF X case since 11/1/2011 with no problems, great temps. Fans are plugged right into H100, I actually don't have a fan controller, so will using this adapter trick work? When I dropped the speed setting on the H100 controller to medium the noise stopped, it's up to full now and the noise is back again.

This noise just started about 2-3 weeks ago. Thought it was my top 200mm fan, but nope. Then thought maybe one of my Cougar fans, didn't hear it from the bottom 2, but didn't want to pull the H100 off to inspect the top 2. Then, I came across this thread this morning and it's the H100 afterall (ARGH!!!!). I'd be willing to try the adapter fix since looks like Corsair is likely to not have a fix.


----------



## SoterioN

Hey wlw wl,

Just sent you another pm - didn't realize OC limits us (or me?) to 2 pm's a day???

anyhoo, the specs on the cougar fans I have are shown at about 1:55 in this youtube video from dmc gaming:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbH1mhZWRn8

just for giggles I laid pc on its side for an hour; noise went away while on its side. but once tower was vertical the noise resumed before I even took my hands off the case.


----------



## bwebmasta

Well...looks like I will have to RMA again. The 2nd H100 doesn't have the noise, but all four fans won't stay on consistently. I have been checking the molex connector, and what not, to no avail.

The first week to 10 days, all four worked but after a reboot, only 3 spin up. I updated the BIOS to current level Saturday, rebooted, only 3 fans. This is rather upsetting, as the 2nd H100 did not have the noise.


----------



## wlw wl

SoterioN - 2PM limit is for user with less than 10 posts. There's still no current rating for those fans even on the package... As for tilting the PC, the problem is the bearing so tilting or putting it on its side takes the lateral stress off the shaft and the bearing, so the problem temporarily disappears.

bwebmasta - does the fan controller change profiles when you press the button? Have you tried the f/w reset procedure?


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> SoterioN - 2PM limit is for user with less than 10 posts. There's still no current rating for those fans even on the package... As for tilting the PC, the problem is the bearing so tilting or putting it on its side takes the lateral stress off the shaft and the bearing, so the problem temporarily disappears.
> bwebmasta - does the fan controller change profiles when you press the button? Have you tried the f/w reset procedure?


The profiles do change, and I can try the FW reset on it and see if that helps. I have not tried it on the 2nd H100, we shall see.


----------



## ehow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> SoterioN - 2PM limit is for user with less than 10 posts. There's still no current rating for those fans even on the package...


There's no info about amperage on the package however based on this video it's putting out 0.18a at 12v. Check out this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8eHtZgdusTQ&feature=related

I plan to use two of these fans in push configuration out to top.. still waiting for my diode adapter


----------



## helderxlg

diode adapter ? does it solves the problem in the H60 pump also ?


----------



## wlw wl

ehow - if it's below 0,2A then you can easily run 4 of them on a H100 on a single 1A diode adapter.

helderxlg - H60 can be regulated from a motherboard fan header, so yes 0 it would work for H60, but it's easier to just plug the H60 into variable voltage fan header.


----------



## mrfancypants

Wlw lw,

Guess i've met my msg cap of 2 per day. Can you pm me where to send $$$. Looking forward to this fix!


----------



## SoterioN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> ehow - if it's below 0,2A then you can easily run 4 of them on a H100 on a single 1A diode adapter.
> helderxlg - H60 can be regulated from a motherboard fan header, so yes 0 it would work for H60, but it's easier to just plug the H60 into variable voltage fan header.


To wlw wl:

thanks to ehow - this is the answer for you wlw wl, I guess I have to wait for a couple more hours before I can pm you again, but you had asked for the watts of the Cougar Vortex PWM fans that I have (I have 4 p/p on H100), ehow has that info. will pm you as soon as Overclock.net will let me.


----------



## wlw wl

Yup I got the info I needed, 4 of those fans will be just fine on 1A diode.


----------



## roblion

Hi, joined here to share my issues with you all.....
Congratulations to wlw wl and others on helping so many people here with these issues.








For me, I purchased a H100 lot # 11479404 in April, installed it, and had 2 noises from it at the same time, first was the rattling that sounded like a hard drive, and the second was the constant drone of the pump.
I use Aida64 Extreme and it showed my pump speed to be 2260+-20. I tried all the usual tricks but nothing worked,so i left it running for 1 week to see if it may clear...nope it didn't...








I contacted Corsair TS as the packing box it came in said STOP - do not return this product to the supplier, I went though their requests for information and tests and they said RMA to them, they also said it was due to my PSU supplying too much +12V voltage at 12.2V and that was causing the pump to run too fast. When I told them I was using a Corsair AX750 PSU they said to RMA the H100!. They were not willing to advance exchange it and as they wanted me to pay for returning their faulty product they suggested i contacted my supplier (www.scan.co.uk), so i contacted them, and went through the whole RMA procedure with them which meant i was without a working PC for 2 weeks, but at least they paid for the courier !
So my second H100 arrived last week, again lot # 11479404 and guess what? yep... another dud one! but this one the hard drive rattle is very faint, in fact only noticeable with the case top off and listening hard, pump runs at 2280 RPM however the pump drone (constant humming noise) is very loud!!!!
That's when I stumbled upon this forum and thread.!!! so after reading all the messages.... YES ALL OFF THEM! I installed a manual fan controller between the molex and the pump and at max it was spot on 2100 RPM !!! however the sound remained........ so i dialed down the controller... at 2000 rpm the rattling go louder... at 1800 worse... at 1500 even worse....until i got down to 1100 rpm!!!! then it was all silent... no rattle... no humming..... but the H100 was running too slow to handle the heat of my pc at 100% cpu load.........
I run my fans from mb headers not the pump unit, so i also tried powering the pump from a fan header on the mb... no joy....
I have contacted the supplier again.... they said RMA it for a refund.







(
I love my H100..coupled with my 4 noctua NF-F12 PWM fans in 2xpush 2xpull configuration is great, but the pump noise is driving me mental!!!
Sadly i don't think the diode mod will work for me, so what do i do??????
Any suggestions / help greatly appreciated......


----------



## helderxlg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> helderxlg - H60 can be regulated from a motherboard fan header, so yes 0 it would work for H60, but it's easier to just plug the H60 into variable voltage fan header.


Thx for the reply wlw wl







But i'm a bit lost here... the h60 already plugs into a motherboard fan header, both the pump and the fan, each on its own.... There's something i need to do in the BIOS settings ?


----------



## wlw wl

roblion - this is an unbelievably ridiculous claim coming from them: "they also said it was due to my PSU supplying too much +12V voltage at 12.2V and that was causing the pump to run too fast." First off, +12,2V is well within ATX spec which is 12V +/- 5%, that's from 11,4V to 12,6V. Second off, it's the unit's design fault that its speed changes when the voltage changes, the speed should be the same and constant in the whole ATX range of +12V voltage. And this really is a design fault because the pump's speed is regulated, but the reference voltage for the regulator is the input voltage*. Besides, there are many units, including the one I had, that rattle at perfect 12,00V.

*)


Spoiler: For the curious ones



The pump's RPM is set with a resistor voltage divider, simulating a certain reading from the thermistor. The problem is that the input voltage for that divisor is the circuit's input voltage of +12V rail, so basically the higher the PSU voltage, the faster the controller is told to run the pump. The reference voltage for that divider should be regulated so it's independent from the input voltage, then the pump would run at constant speed regardless of the input voltage being 12,00V or 12,3V.



I think you should return the unit for a refund or wait a week and talk to CorsairGeorge when he gets back from Computex.

helderxlg - connect the H60 to one of the MoBo headers that can be software-regulated and adjust its speed with some software, like SpeedFan for example, in 5% decrements until you find the sweet spot. I would suggest however to keep it above 75 - 80% so there's no impact on the performance.


----------



## roblion

thanks for the quick reply wlw wl !
I think I will wait for corsairgeorge to return to hear about their proposed fix, hopefully corsair will have a quick (and advanced) RMA process as part of their fix, or maybe they are mass producing your diode fix !!!!!!
I hope they have gone down the better screening of components route and get suppliers to return old stock for replacement of better tested units and that Corsair advance RMA bad units with guaranteed fixed unit too!.


----------



## ehow

The time has come! So, do I take a chance of getting it now hoping I won't get the defected h100 or would I be better off waiting for the updated version?


----------



## Q9650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehow*
> 
> The time has come! So, do I take a chance of getting it now hoping I won't get the defected h100 or would I be better off waiting for the updated version?


if i were you i would hold on until corsair ships the newer/fixed h100`s as there are still many defective h100`s lurking around.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Q9650*
> 
> if i were you i would hold on until corsair ships the newer/fixed h100`s as there are still many defective h100`s lurking around.


Agreed. Wait until they make an announcement and publish a RMA process that ensures you obtain a replacement that's been properly screened for defects.


----------



## Jimma47

I've had my H100 for about four months. A bit noisy the very first time I turned it on and since then running beautifully. Three days ago it began making the noise again and a couple of taps of the pump housing cover would fix it, however it has become more frequent and has now been grinding away constantly for a day.
Could this be a voltage issue as well? Considering it has been running fine for ages or would it be likely to be something else? Nothing new in the case as far as hardware goes.

I've tried putting it the case on it's side. Zero change. It's top mounted in a Corsair 500R. I've mounted it so the hoses come out the right hand side as you look at the pump - corsair badge up the right way. Would it be worth rotating 270 degrees to get the hoses exiting the top?

The noise is like my fridge running. Annoying.
Just wondering if it's wroth trying the voltage dropper or whether it's likely to be something else.

Oh and the mobo is generic HP (Foxconn?) socket 775 quad core (yikes oldness!) as my last one died and I had this sitting around in an older PC. So I can't do anything much in BIOS I'm afraid.
Was hoping to upgrade to an Ivy Bridge but if i'm out of pocket for the cooler or a two to three week RMA turn around it won't be happening for another couple of months









Thanks for any advice.
Jimma


----------



## GabrielDrake

I bought a week ago the H100, the first few days no problem.
Then it started making the humming noise... I stopped all the fans, I tightened all the screws, I removed the hard disk to see if it was a problem of resonance, but nothing changed.
What should I do? Try this fix?
2180 - 2280rpm from HWMonitor and BIOS
Batch # 11499403
thanks in advance, Gabriel


----------



## SoterioN

From wlw wl: "There are several methods do fix that.
One is to use a big 4-pin Molex fan controller in case of H100 or H80, or motherboard's fan header in case of H60"

Just curious - I have been interested in adding a fan controller, can someone explain how this would fix the noise issue? Would the H100 power cord be plugged into the fan controller? or would the fans be plugged in (or both)? I have H100 w/Cougar Vortex PWM x4 in push/pull and started getting this noise about 3 weeks ago.

also, any recommendations of types of fan controllers that could address this?


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoterioN*
> 
> From wlw wl: "There are several methods do fix that.
> One is to use a big 4-pin Molex fan controller in case of H100 or H80, or motherboard's fan header in case of H60"
> Just curious - I have been interested in adding a fan controller, can someone explain how this would fix the noise issue? Would the H100 power cord be plugged into the fan controller? or would the fans be plugged in (or both)? I have H100 w/Cougar Vortex PWM x4 in push/pull and started getting this noise about 3 weeks ago.
> also, any recommendations of types of fan controllers that could address this?


Basically any fan controller that has input for 4 pin molex. Basically just want to turn it down till the noise stops. I face to turn mine down to 74% before it goes away. I'm running it off a motherboard fan header. Really thinking about taking this pos back and saving a little more for a real loop.


----------



## wlw wl

I would like to inform anyone that might be interested that I will not be making any more of the adapters until further notice.

That is due to time constraints - I make them in my free time so I don't have to charge you for the time and labor, and my free time is and will be scarce. Unfortunately some people do not understand that so I have to make it clear.
The last batch currently being processed has been delayed beyond acceptable due to the above and that is not acceptable for me and even more so for you. That was mostly because of it's volume, which passed 40 pieces.

To all of those who are currently awaiting their adapter(s) - they have either already been sent or will be sent this week, please refer to the ETA that I gave you and inform me if you do not have it by then + few days.


----------



## helderxlg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> helderxlg - connect the H60 to one of the MoBo headers that can be software-regulated and adjust its speed with some software, like SpeedFan for example, in 5% decrements until you find the sweet spot. I would suggest however to keep it above 75 - 80% so there's no impact on the performance.


Hi there, thx for the help wlw wl







. In fact as soon as i connected the pump to one of those mobo fan headers (in this case a Asus Z68 pro) , the sound just went away and it's running silent like it never was. I'm seeing in the Asus Ai Suite that my i2500k is at 26ºC in idle, cpu fan (radiator fan) at 1020 rpm and chassis fan (pump) at 1819 rpm. In bios i've the Q-fan control enabled for both the cpu and chassis fan. Anything i can test to see if all is ok ?


----------



## wlw wl

The pump's speed is very good, use OCCT Linpack test to see what CPU temperatures will you get with current setup.


----------



## ehow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *helderxlg*
> 
> Hi there, thx for the help wlw wl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . In fact as soon as i connected the pump to one of those mobo fan headers (in this case a Asus Z68 pro) , the sound just went away and it's running silent like it never was. I'm seeing in the Asus Ai Suite that my i2500k is at 26ºC in idle, cpu fan (radiator fan) at 1020 rpm and chassis fan (pump) at 1819 rpm. In bios i've the Q-fan control enabled for both the cpu and chassis fan. Anything i can test to see if all is ok ?


That's a great temp! I'm planning to install on maximus v gene so I'm new with this. Are you able to control the pump via q-fan control and are you able to use both q-fan control and the fan xpert?


----------



## SoterioN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> I would like to inform anyone that might be interested that I will not be making any more of the adapters until further notice.
> That is due to time constraints - I make them in my free time so I don't have to charge you for the time and labor, and my free time is and will be scarce. Unfortunately some people do not understand that so I have to make it clear.
> The last batch currently being processed has been delayed beyond acceptable due to the above and that is not acceptable for me and even more so for you. That was mostly because of it's volume, which passed 40 pieces.
> To all of those who are currently awaiting their adapter(s) - they have either already been sent or will be sent this week, please refer to the ETA that I gave you and inform me if you do not have it by then + few days.


That's fine - I personally really appreciate the insight you have brought to this issue and the novel fix, as well as the generous effort you have given to community members. I think I'm going to go the fan controller route, as I actually wanted one when I built my system but never got it.


----------



## mrfancypants

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> I would like to inform anyone that might be interested that I will not be making any more of the adapters until further notice.
> That is due to time constraints - I make them in my free time so I don't have to charge you for the time and labor, and my free time is and will be scarce. Unfortunately some people do not understand that so I have to make it clear.
> The last batch currently being processed has been delayed beyond acceptable due to the above and that is not acceptable for me and even more so for you. That was mostly because of it's volume, which passed 40 pieces.
> To all of those who are currently awaiting their adapter(s) - they have either already been sent or will be sent this week, please refer to the ETA that I gave you and inform me if you do not have it by then + few days.


I would like to say thank you for all of your effort and contribution to this issue. Im sure a lot of people have benefited from your knowledge and it is a huge gesture that you were willing to devote much of your time in helping people. I actually purchased this a couple days ago from you but understand if it will be delayed until further notice.Thanks again

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoterioN*
> 
> That's fine - I personally really appreciate the insight you have brought to this issue and the novel fix, as well as the generous effort you have given to community members. I think I'm going to go the fan controller route, as I actually wanted one when I built my system but never got it.


Im a bit slow when it comes to visualizing this stuff. To be clear, would you still plug in the radiator fans directly into the cooling unit? And then plug the cooling unit power into a fan controller? Also any fan controllers you recommend?


----------



## wlw wl

You can still have the fans plugged into the H80/H100 if the fan controller you choose has enough A / W per channel, 1A or 12W per channel would be enough to handle it, but that depends on the fans you chose.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrfancypants*
> 
> I actually purchased this a couple days ago from you but understand if it will be delayed until further notice


You will receive your adapter shortly, all other pending requests will be finalized ASAP, I will just not accept new requests.


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Q9650*
> 
> if i were you i would hold on until corsair ships the newer/fixed h100`s as there are still many defective h100`s lurking around.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayWill411*
> 
> Agreed. Wait until they make an announcement and publish a RMA process that ensures you obtain a replacement that's been properly screened for defects.


Wait they're actually going to release revised versions (H60-100)?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Q9650*
> 
> if i were you i would hold on until corsair ships the newer/fixed h100`s as there are still many defective h100`s lurking around.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JayWill411*
> 
> Agreed. Wait until they make an announcement and publish a RMA process that ensures you obtain a replacement that's been properly screened for defects.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wait they're actually going to release revised versions (H60-100)?
Click to expand...

Well Corsair is now aware and a REP in here said he was working on it, so we can only assume that there will be a revised model.


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Well Corsair is now aware and a REP in here said he was working on it, so we can only assume that there will be a revised model.


Yea I PM'd him about that a few months back, and just got the "we're working on it" too
So other than that no "we've got an announcement" or any kind of hints then?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Well Corsair is now aware and a REP in here said he was working on it, so we can only assume that there will be a revised model.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea I PM'd him about that a few months back, and just got the "we're working on it" too
> So other than that no "we've got an announcement" or any kind of hints then?
Click to expand...

Nope, just word from Corsair George saying that a fix is in progress.


----------



## candy_van

Ah OK, well that's actually more info than I got previously then believe it or not









I hope that comes sooner than later; I foolishly sold off my old H50 (no issues) then tried out a H60 a few months back and it was total rubbish (pump).
If only I'dve found this thread while I still had that lol, ah well c'est la vie.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> Ah OK, well that's actually more info than I got previously then believe it or not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope that comes sooner than later; I foolishly sold off my old H50 (no issues) then tried out a H60 a few months back and it was total rubbish (pump).
> If only I'dve found this thread while I still had that lol, ah well c'est la vie.


I finally got a working H80, only 2 RMA's later.


----------



## helderxlg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehow*
> 
> That's a great temp! I'm planning to install on maximus v gene so I'm new with this. Are you able to control the pump via q-fan control and are you able to use both q-fan control and the fan xpert?


Yes you can, aslong as you connect to adjustable fan headers, which in my case, the pump wasn't.

Gonna try that occt now.


----------



## ice-dragoon25

I'm wondering if a 1N5060 diode would do the work? because i'm already got that at my home. My father is a electrical engineer and he compared both datasheet and said that it would even be better quality

Just wanna know what you think about that thx!


----------



## wlw wl

Define "better quality"?

It's an avalanche diode and like Zener diodes it's purpose is different, but if connected in series it will act basically the same. With the exception of voltage drop,, 0,8A @ 1A for 1N5060 as opposed to 1N4001's 1,0V @ 1A, so it is a bit less suitable for this application i.e. the likeliness of stopping the noise is lower with 1N5060.


----------



## JayWill411

To clarify the current information from Corsair, they are NOT manufacturing a revision to the units as far as we know, they are simply tightening their screening process to better make sure units that have the tolerance issue with the ceramic bearings in the pump don't make it into the hands of consumers. Once units have been received in-house that have been manufactured under this tighter screening process, they will be letting us know how to go about submitting a RMA.

Regarding hooking the pump up to a fan controller, instead of hooking up the 4 pin molex power cable to your PSU, you need to route that to the controller. Pump speed is handled by voltage, and by turning the dial down on a fan controller, you are reducing voltage thus reducing the pump speed. In order to connect the pump power to a fan controller, you need a 4 pin female molex to 3 pin female fan adapter.

Also, if your fan controller has an RPM readout, you may also want to run the RPM wire (the separate wire on the Corsair pump) to that same 3 pin header on the controller. To do this, in addition to the 4 pin Molex to 3 pin fan adapter, you would also need a Y adapter that has 2 male 3 pin fan headers on one end and one female header on the other end. I had trouble finding this particular cable, so I had a custom cable made that handles both with one cable. Here is a picture of my custom cable ...



Again, you don't necessarily need a cable like this if you can find a Y cable that has two 3 pin male connectors on one end and a single 3 pin female connector on the other end.

With my current setup, I run power to my H100 through my Lamptron Touch fan controller and have to dial it down to 89% for the buzzing sound to disappear, which runs the pump at a tad under 11v and about 1,770 RPM. I also have my Cougar fans connected to the H100 pump's fan controller and it runs fine. Although I may run those two fans to my Lamptron controller as well so I can run them at max RPM. I don't know how fast they're running now but I have to assume they running below their max 1,200 RPM since I'm limiting voltage to the pump itself.


----------



## wlw wl

Updated the OP to reflect current state of things.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Hey guys, I don't have anything new to report - but if you've emailed or PM'd me over the past week or so, chances are I haven't responded because I was out at Computex and didn't really have any time to do emails or anything.

I'll start going through them on Monday - and I'll be able to check the status of the QA process. I'll let you know more when I do.


----------



## kizwan

I just bought H100 last week & after that I found this thread. I hasn't noticed any noise yet but this is very worrying. I watched several "H100 noise problem" video on youtube & they're loud.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

kizwan, please understand that the vast, vast majority of customers never have any issues with the H100. Though the RMA rate has risen slightly due to this issue, it's still exceptionally low. Our RMA rate on liquid cooling is in the low single digits.

So combine a part that is likely to sell mostly to people with forums accounts (a $100+ CPU cooler), a more complex product than a standard heatpipe cooler, and a slight bump in failures, and you'll see a much higher report rate of failure. I'm not saying we don't have anything to fix - we do. But just realize that most people who buy an H80/H100 never have a single issue.


----------



## kizwan

Thank you for your explanation, George.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> ... most people who buy an H80/H100 never have a single issue.


I hope I'm one of these people.


----------



## daniman444

This is seriously ridiculous.... I have gone through 3, yes 3, not 1, not 2, but 3 H80, still, all 3 of them have the same pump noise issue... to think that I am losing my mind over a cpu cooler!
I don't know Corsair, I really don't, it's been a while since I have been through such a terrible experience. My only hope now is wlw wl's solution, guess I will just have to wait and see...

To say that I am disappointed from such a magnificent company would be an understatement. It's a shame.


----------



## Smokey27

I recently installed the corsair h100 for my fx-8120 in my nzxt phantom black case,performance wise im very happy with it,temps are incredibly low.But...as many of you i also suffer from the rattling noise coming from the pump.But when i lay the case on its side,its completely silent,but this isn't really an option for using it 24/7. When i boot up my machine when i have the case standing up,the noiseof the pump is very audible,but the sound get less and less when i use my pc for a while.


----------



## MarcusJClifford

I own the Corsair H80 cooler, and while I don't currently suffer from the "really bad noise" issue I have a slight issue with the noise the pump makes as "normal".

Note I did experience the "really bad noise" when I first got the cooler - I tried it outside of the case just running off a MOLEX connector and when horizontal I got awful noise - a really loud screech noise, rotating to vertical cured this as did tapping and generally moving about the hoses.

Anyway, while I think that is a significant issue with the system it's not the reason for this post.

The pump I believe is working correctly for me, but I can still clearly hear the pump operating over all the other noises my computer makes.

The rest is by no means silent, I'm running the standard Corsair H80 two fan setup and my case also has another 120mm fan mounted at the front. The PSU also has a large fan. The graphics card has two fans on it. So in total I have 6 spinning fans in my case.

Even with that I can clearly her the drone noise of the pump in the system, it is a very clear sound, much higher pitched than the fan noise.

From monitoring I can see the pump is running at 2083 RPM.

As a test I made a cable to run a molex off an adjustable fan controller and got the following results.
Voltage was measured using a multimeter, RPM was from ASUS AI Suite II monitoring.

Voltage RPM
9.5v 1376
10.0v 1513
10.5v 1634
11.0v 1781
11.42v 1890 (Maximum voltage fan controller could output)
12.18v 2083 (Connected directly to PSU Molex)

At 9.5v (1376) the pump was essentially silent even with my head in the case.
At 10v (1513) the pump was noticeable over the rest of the case components, but when the case side was on it was not detectable
at 10.5v (1634) you could just about here the noise
at 11v (1781) the pump was clearly audible when sitting normally, but not a nuisance noise - i.e. if you listened for it you could hear it.
at 11.42v (1890) the pump was a nuisance noise - the drone was annoying
at 12.18v (2083) the pump was not much louder (perception) than at 11.42 - it was still annoying and by far the loudest perceived component in the case.

My computer was build to be quiet, but not silent - I've got standard fans as provided by the case, PSU and graphics card manufacturers, yet the pump is clearly the loudest component of all.

I guess I'm asking is this normal - reviews seem to describe the pump as silent with the fans being the loudest part of the H80, but on low setting and idle the fans for me are pretty silent.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## JayWill411

@Marcus

From what you described, I believe the pump noise you are experiencing is not normal or intended. From personal experience with my H100 pump, it makes an audible noise that is louder than all 7 fans in my PC combined at anything over 1800RPM. At 1770RPM the pump is dead silent, and my CPU temperatures have remained roughly the same. Interestingly, my pump noise starts to diminish as it approaches max RPM, which lines up with what Corsair George said about their testing and being able to eliminate the noise below, and above, a certain RPM threshold. I believe that if I had a way to push my pumps RPMs past 100%, the noise would also drop to silent.

I believe your pump is falling within this resonance threshold, although you're having to drop the voltage more than I am to eliminate the noise. Mine goes silent at about 10.9v, or 1770 RPM. This may be due to differences in the H100 vs H80 pumps (if any).


----------



## SvennK

The only thing making noise in my cabinet now is the water pump on my new H-60. I thought at first it was the old video card with a huge air cooler that was the problem, but the noise still persisted after I switched it for a new Asus gtx 670.

It's a grinding noise like many here have reported and I'm keen to know the outcome of this. I will return my unit to the shop I bought it and hope to get one without the noise problems.


----------



## 2thAche

My H100 makes a noticable noise. I have 3 H5O and none of them make any noise at all.

Has anyone tried laying the case side to side while it's running to rule out air bubbles stuck in the pump?


----------



## snapple13

so i guess its normal for a h100 to stop working after a week?


----------



## cooldemon

I suggest that people that still have the rattling problem after RMA and lowering voltage to 12.0 volt should replace their PSU


----------



## HighwayStar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cooldemon*
> 
> I suggest that people that still have the rattling problem after RMA and lowering voltage to 12.0 volt should replace their PSU


That is sad.


----------



## luca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> kizwan, please understand that the vast, vast majority of customers never have any issues with the H100. Though the RMA rate has risen slightly due to this issue, it's still exceptionally low. Our RMA rate on liquid cooling is in the low single digits.


As I already wrote a few days ago, can you just let us know where and how did you find your data to build this small-talks statistic? if you can't disclose it, that's just a bad marketing trick.
I've just RMAed my sixth H60, don't know which is the worst of them but my flatmates have been really laughing like mads for a month, and I guess they won't ever ever ever buy a corsair product. BTW, because of this, I bought samsung memory instead of corsair, which in the old rig just gave me problems.


----------



## luca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HighwayStar*
> 
> That is sad.


No. it is sad that corsair do not stop to sell this product


----------



## moonglade

How does one find out what the pump RPM is?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonglade*
> 
> How does one find out what the pump RPM is?


There is a 3-pin connector coming off the pump, plug that in to a header on the motherboard and you can use a program like HWMonitor to see RPM of fans/pumps connected to the motherboard.


----------



## mrfancypants

Anyone try out the Thermaltake 2.0 extreme yet? This noise from the H100 is driving me nuts. Dont know how long till Corsair official fix will be and I fear if I RMA the current pump, I will get one back just as loud.


----------



## Smokey27

Ok..im done with it,tried every possible solution but the only one solution is to lay my case on it's side 24/7 to make the noise go away.I will refund it and get a proper water cooling setup.


----------



## Hukkel

This is getting out of hand. Look at the recent replies. All people with one or a few posts that accidentally stumble onto this website to report their problems. This is starting to feel like someone or some company is trying to give Corsair bad rep on this website.


----------



## luca

Do not blame people posting here. This is just a Corsair fault because it is greedy. If you have a serious problem in some of your products and do not want to tackle it because of losing money, well... this is what you get. you're going to lose your reputation and, hopefully I would say, more money in the middle-long term. This is basic marketing taught at elementary level.


----------



## Hukkel

If 100s of regular members here would say that then I would be more inclined to believe them than you with 4 replies and all in this thread.


----------



## luca

ok, goodbye, I'll let you in your fabolous world


----------



## Hukkel

Fabulous. Thank you.

But it is not aimed just at you. Last few pages too many newcomers start flaming Corsair.


----------



## mrfancypants

Its not that dubious hukkel. Searched "corsair h100 noise," found OCN. wlw wl provided his own solution for others. Corsair is here via George with open lines of communication. Just want this issue solved.Hopefully wlw wl fix will work for me...


----------



## bgineng

I have this issue with my H100, and I'm waiting to rma until they fix the problem. Apparently it's not that uncommon. I just hope they fix it soon cuz man is it annoying.

And I bet that all the new people are posting here because they google "h100 clicking noise" or something like that, find this thread, and then post so they can learn what they need to. Nobody is going to come to a thread about a certain issue just so they can post "oh hey guys, I don't have this issue."


----------



## mybeat

I have the same issue with my H60, and strangely enough noise disappears when the case is turned on it's side.

Sad part is that shipping the unit back to corsair will cost me like half the price of the new one, so I don't even bother.

H70 on the other hand have been working great for year and a half.


----------



## tonystark

I just installed an H80, and set it to "medium".

The fans are a bit louder than the combination of my old case fan and CPU fan, but I can't hear anything that might be called "pump noise".

It seems to be working fine. CPU temp is 30C with a mild overclock.

I bought this because, going into the summer, my computer was overheating and I didn't want to run the air conditioning on high for the whole house just to keep the computer from overheating. I'm not a gamer, I'm an engineer and I run programs that use all the cores in the CPU on maximum for hours at a time.

So, I have a question: I'm using the Corsair fans that came with the H80. They have three pins and I've plugged them into the pump unit.

Does anyone know what would happen if I bought higher-quality, perhaps four-pin fans, and plugged them into the pump unit? Would it be more quiet?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonystark*
> 
> I just installed an H80, and set it to "medium".
> 
> The fans are a bit louder than the combination of my old case fan and CPU fan, but I can't hear anything that might be called "pump noise".
> 
> It seems to be working fine. CPU temp is 30C with a mild overclock.
> 
> I bought this because, going into the summer, my computer was overheating and I didn't want to run the air conditioning on high for the whole house just to keep the computer from overheating. I'm not a gamer, I'm an engineer and I run programs that use all the cores in the CPU on maximum for hours at a time.
> 
> So, I have a question: I'm using the Corsair fans that came with the H80. They have three pins and I've plugged them into the pump unit.
> 
> Does anyone know what would happen if I bought higher-quality, perhaps four-pin fans, and plugged them into the pump unit? Would it be more quiet?


There are most definitely quieter fans that you could get. Some are pricier than others like the Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15's.


----------



## bgineng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonystark*
> 
> I just installed an H80, and set it to "medium".
> The fans are a bit louder than the combination of my old case fan and CPU fan, but I can't hear anything that might be called "pump noise".
> It seems to be working fine. CPU temp is 30C with a mild overclock.
> I bought this because, going into the summer, my computer was overheating and I didn't want to run the air conditioning on high for the whole house just to keep the computer from overheating. I'm not a gamer, I'm an engineer and I run programs that use all the cores in the CPU on maximum for hours at a time.
> So, I have a question: I'm using the Corsair fans that came with the H80. They have three pins and I've plugged them into the pump unit.
> Does anyone know what would happen if I bought higher-quality, perhaps four-pin fans, and plugged them into the pump unit? Would it be more quiet?


The stock corsair fans have surprisingly good static pressure tho. Keep that in mind when looking for a replacement. There are definitely better fans out there, but they aren't going to be cheap fans.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> There are most definitely quieter fans that you could get. Some are pricier than others like the Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15's.


Yes for sure. Scythe GT, Cougar Vortex and Noctua NF-P12 fans have been popular replacements for the stock fans. I personally use Cougar fans and have been very happy with their performance.


----------



## bgineng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayWill411*
> 
> Yes for sure. Scythe GT, Cougar Vortex and Noctua NF-P12 fans have been popular replacements for the stock fans. I personally use Cougar fans and have been very happy with their performance.


Which cougars do you use? I have been intrigued by these fans for my h100.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bgineng*
> 
> Which cougars do you use? I have been intrigued by these fans for my h100.


Links below. I use the non-PWM versions since PWM is irrelevant when connected to the pump or a fan controller which is my preferred connection for now. You may want to consider the PWM version though if you want your motherboard to control fan speed off a 4-pin CPU header. Also, the PWM version does have higher max RPM potential (1,500 vs 1,200).

Non-PWM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553005

PWM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553006

They sell them in their full orange color also, but I prefer the black.


----------



## Maxxron

How did I _just_ stumble upon this thread? So glad it popped up on the "Latest Discussions" or I would have never looked for/found it.

I've had my H80 now for a couple months and it's been giving off the ol' "HDD" sound now for about a month. After days trying to figure out what was making the sound (checked all my fans/HDD's/GPU's) I naively overlooked the H80, until I stuck my head in the case (800D sooo roomy







). As much as it annoyed me (it's the loudest noise from my case), I just assumed it was normal. I decided to go with the H80 because my previous H50 was like a powerhouse and quiet to boot, so i was a disappointed that it was this loud. Although, wish I went 100 as the 80 was originally intended to go with an 1155 build that ended up being a 2011 and it's a little close for comfort on my Dominator's.

So my question is this: at this point, should I RMA or wait for official word for possible fix? Just curious since I'm running a 2011 build and my H80 is the only cooler I have for it. So when/if I RMA it, I'll be without a computer for the duration. As much as I think the user "fix" is ingenious, I'd rather have an official fix (no offense.)

Also (for CorsairGeorge) If I do RMA it, is there any chance I could exchange it for an H100 for the MSRP difference? Sorry if that's a stupid question, but better to ask just in case and obviously alright if I can't.

Glad to see Corsair is on it and this doesn't effect my feelings towards their products as after all the stuff I've purchased and owned from them, this is the first issue. So looking forward to a resolution, hopefully sooner rather than later.


----------



## yug3sh

I am using the Scythe gentle typhoons with my (noisy) H80..... the fans are awesome. Significantly better than the stock fans. They're really quiet, even on full blast (although you do hear a whooshing sound, but not the typically annoying fan sound you get with other fans).

It was a choice between them and the noiseblockers, and I went with the typhoons due to being much cheaper.


----------



## Nastrodamous

Bought one today, grinding as soon as i turned it on.


----------



## Hukkel

Do H70s also suffer from this? Since I have 3 of them at home waiting to be used O.0


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> Do H70s also suffer from this? Since I have 3 of them at home waiting to be used O.0


Google search "corsair h70 pump noise" and you'll have your answer. Corsair says the chance you have a defective pump should be low based on their RMA rates, but there's always a chance. I believe all of Corsair's Hydro models have the potential to suffer from a variety of pump noise issues. I will say though that the noise my H100 pump MADE (I say made because I dropped the voltage on it via a fan controller and now it's totally silent) is much more annoying than the sound in most of the H70 videos on Youtube. It's a higher pitched grinding whine rather than buzzing or clicking.


----------



## Dutambalu

The first h100 that got and using right now at this moment has evvvvvvvvvvvvvvvverrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry so slightly grinding noise. Cant even hear it unless you really listen to it. Its running at 2200-2235 RPM all the time. I guess i can call my self lucky


----------



## Incubus32

I just bought a corsair H100 about a month ago with lot number: 12129403, Honestly, there is the weird pump noise, but no problem for me it is quite negligible to my ears. Pump is running @ 2238rpm, I have a 12v rail, rated at 12.480 (Seasonic X-850). Just yesterday when I opened up my computer, The default corsair fans connected to the pump is not lowering down. Normally before, All of my case fan including the h100 fans will spin @ full load at start up and after boot when the fan settings kicked in, it will spin down, But right now, Even after boot, fans stays at full RPM while my case fans already throttled down. Is the fan profile/controller broken? I already tried resetting the firmware, but no good, it is still the same. profile leds still working when selecting different profile, but no changes on fan speed.

One more thing, I have my friend who owns an H100 too, What is the normal led for this cooler? White or blue? Mine was white, and if I am in the profile one, the only led working was the number 1... 2nd and 3rd profile leds are off together with the guy logo on the bottom right. My friend Unit was entirely different. His H100 leds are always lit. even the guy logo. and he has the white/blue leds combination. When he is on the profile 1. Number 1 led is lit with white, while 2 and 3 is blue. and the guy logo on the bottom right has a blue led also.

I don't know what maybe the fix for this since I have this uncommon H100 problem. I am really thankful that this kind of thread exist. More credits to "wlw wl" for the helpful posts. I am located in the Philippines and I don't want to end up to RMA my unit,cause here It will take some time. Still cross fingers maybe someone could hand me help here. Thanks! Sorry for my bad English though.


----------



## slizza

Would a UF5402 diode be any good? It's all i have.

http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/81672/DIOTEC/UF5402.html


----------



## wlw wl

Okay folks, I'm back.

I was away for some time so I couldn't reply to e-mails or PMs, sorry. This was unexpected so I couldn't warn anyone prior to it happening.

To all the people who are waiting for the adapters and should have already received them - I can't apologize enough to you. They have all been made and ready but I didn't manage to send that last batch.
It is Saturday now, so they WILL go first thing in the Monday morning, you have my word on it. I hope you have a last bit of patience left.

I am still *not* making the adapters at this time. If I decide to, I will let you know.

slizza - it has w forward voltage of *up to* 1V at 3A, so it might prove insufficient. But it won't hurt to try, there's still a chance it will work.

Hukkel - the reason you see so many newcomers is... google. Many people google "H100 noise" or similar phrases and end up finding my thread here, maybe even before the one at Corsair forum. So they just come in, register and post in the thread or PM me right away. You doubt the legitimacy of this, it's your problem, however the "hostile company conspiracy" is preposterous.


----------



## Remontoire

Was going to buy a corsair watercooler.

No thanks, hello antec.


----------



## wlw wl

You know that Corsair water = antec water, right?


----------



## gossf

I would like to share my discoveries. I was also plagued by the pump noises, sounded like hard drives. I found that tapping the unit caused the noise to cease. Furthermore, tapping the unit again starts it, and then i can tap it again to reverse it. It only comes back once in a blue moon, and then I just tap it to fix it. I am very happy with this cooler, keeps me right around 60 at 1.25v 4.5 GHz on my 2700k.


----------



## skyline_king88

no fix should have to be done i had one it started about 2 months after i got it then i broke about 2 months later. if it is making the noise just rma and get new one i got the new one back and it is silent now. the one i got back is quieter then the first one was when i got it.


----------



## Maximuscr31

Mine has been silent for 4 months now since bought. I still think it has alot to do with your power supply/


----------



## wlw wl

Such as?


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximuscr31*
> 
> Mine has been silent for 4 months now since bought. I still think it has alot to do with your power supply/


Yeah, I don't think so. The pumps should be able to run the full range of the 12v. +/-5% is withing tolerance. That's 11.4v - 12.6v. Mine shows 12.28. But I have to take it down to 1374 rpm. I'll check that with a voltmeter when I get a chance, but that has got to be close to 10v. Maybe less. It actually gets louder until it just suddenly stops at that rpm. But now I have fan control issues. I think they stem from the fact that the controller on the H100 is not getting the 12 volts it needs, so every now and then the fans kick to 100% and I have to reset the H100. So the only way for me to remedy is to 1. reduce volts and 2. to put fans on a seperate controller. So the only thing the unit does well, is keep my temps low. Everything else it's advertised to do fails.

I plan on RMA'ing it, but i'm not doing anything till I hear from Corsair that the units coming out of RMA are all corrected.


----------



## wlw wl

The fan controller is powered from 3,3V supplied by an LDO voltage regulator, so it doesn't care if you run it from 12V or 10V. There must be something else going on, the fans are having the ground switched with a PWM signal, maybe they aren't happy with 10V and they don't achieve speeds the controller wants them to achieve, but you'd have to know the firmware of the controller MCU to guess what exactly is happening. What I'm thinking is some safety feature like "the fans aren't working as they should, fall back to full speed".


----------



## bandook

Yeah, you understand this much better than I do. That makes sense.

Off topic a little, but does Corsair do advanced rma?


----------



## wlw wl

On an individual basis, yes. You'd have to call/skype them and arrange for that and I think you'd have to submit a normal RMA ticket first and then "elevate" it. Or just call them and they'll tell you all you need to know.


----------



## Remontoire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> You know that Corsair water = antec water, right?


Nope. I'm a noob.

I've gone for a heatsink fan anyway now.


----------



## Degree

Any news if the H100 is fixed and safe to buy from Newegg/Amazon?


----------



## ehow

I pulled the trigger knowing the issue that I got one from amazon recently. I'm waiting for the final parts to arrive this week for a new build and I know it's been confirmed that this problem has nothing to do with the lot code but mine is 12179403 and I don't think I have seen this lot code from others who are having the issue yet, so hopefully I get lucky? If not, I have the diode adapter coming as a backup. Will report how it goes.


----------



## kizwan

Where can I check the lot code?


----------



## Dutambalu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Where can I check the lot code?


On the serial stick, where it says "CWCH100" (if you have a h100), there should be a number right above it, and thats the code.


----------



## kizwan

Thanks. Mine is 12159403 & it doesn't make any noise...yet. Hope never.


----------



## wlw wl

First four digits are the production date, so 121559403 is year 2012 week 15. This is the only significant part of the number, as you might be able to tell if your is "new enough" to be a part of the "enhanced QC screening process".
Of course not all units are noisy, but there's a combination of factors that might result in you having a noisy one, if you're unlucky.


----------



## MarcusJClifford

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> The fan controller is powered from 3,3V supplied by an LDO voltage regulator, so it doesn't care if you run it from 12V or 10V. There must be something else going on, the fans are having the ground switched with a PWM signal, maybe they aren't happy with 10V and they don't achieve speeds the controller wants them to achieve, but you'd have to know the firmware of the controller MCU to guess what exactly is happening. What I'm thinking is some safety feature like "the fans aren't working as they should, fall back to full speed".


Does this mean that there is no effect on the actual fans if we lower the voltage to the pump, as per my previous posting my pump is silent if I drop it to 9.5 volts, but will doing that have any effect on anything apart from the pump RPM? I want the fans to spin as normal at normal speeds.

Also, is there any risk to anything running at 9.5 volts?

Thanks
Marcus


----------



## wlw wl

No, it only means that the fan controller circuit is powered from its own voltage regulator so the logic won't be hurt, but the fans connected to this controller are powered directly from the +12V rail. So if you drop the voltage from 12 to 10 volts, it WILL affect the speed of the fans. Depending on how the firmware will behave, it might only affect the tops speed the fans will be able to achieve, or influence the whole range of fan speeds.

The question "is this voltage good for me" must be answered by you based on the temperatures you're getting. Lowering the voltage affects not only the fans' speed, but the pump's speed as well, and both those factor contribute to the overall cooling efficiency of the unit.


----------



## insertacoolname

Very simple fix for me, I noticed that the pump was only grinding at lower speeds, so I disabled the smart CPU controller in the BIOS and now it is silent.

btw very impressed with the cooler. 2500k running at 4.5 ghz 1.308v never sees 63+ degrees when stress testing, I was expecting worse.


----------



## Acefire

Solution = Don't buy crappy Market Hype products then try to fix them.

Just avoid the Corsair H Fail Series. These things have always been a bad idea, now there quality reaffirms that.

If you bought one of these then Shame on you.


----------



## insertacoolname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acefire*
> 
> Solution = Don't buy crappy Market Hype products then try to fix them.
> Just avoid the Corsair H Fail Series. These things have always been a bad idea, now there quality reaffirms that.
> If you bought one of these then Shame on you.


Well done for blessing this thread with your intellectualism, now begone.


----------



## wlw wl

insertacoolname - you mean an H60? It shouldn't be powered from a variable voltage source to begin with, it should be connected to PWR_FAN which always runs at full speed. So you just made the opposite thing to this fix. You un-fixed it


----------



## insertacoolname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> insertacoolname - you mean an H60? It shouldn't be powered from a variable voltage source to begin with, it should be connected to PWR_FAN which always runs at full speed. So you just made the opposite thing to this fix. You un-fixed it


Huh, fancy that. Will it make a difference?


----------



## Volvo

I was pretty disappointed when I heard this news about the Corsair pumps grinding and whatnot.

Pre-Corsair CoolIT was almost always dependable and reliable; even if the temps weren't always as good as Asetek units.

The best cooler in my opinion, would be something like an Antec 920/Corsair H70 block; which is basically a 690LC, paired with either a 240mm single thin rad or a 120mm double thin rad; and utilising the mounting solution from CoolIT.
Asetek's push and twist method leaves more to be desired.

Also, companies should go back to the days when waterblocks were just waterblocks. I do not need a pair of fan wires stemming from the block when clearly it won't handle my double 1.4A fans, and neither do I need a USB header coming out of the block just so I can change the colour of a fancy LED on it. It just drives the cost up and makes cable management a pain.


----------



## SoterioN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bandook*
> 
> Basically any fan controller that has input for 4 pin molex. Basically just want to turn it down till the noise stops. I face to turn mine down to 74% before it goes away. I'm running it off a motherboard fan header. Really thinking about taking this pos back and saving a little more for a real loop.


Any brand recommendations? or if anyone else wants to recommend - I would like to get a fan controller to address this, I'm using H100 w/4 Cougar Vortex PWM fans in p/p config. I know I have to find one w/4 pin molex. Would love a recommendation, and would prefer a digital interface if possible.

Re: installation of a fan controller, would I connect the 4 Cougars into the controller, and the pump separately in the controller? Is it by dialing back the pump w/fan controller that would reduce the noise? or would I leave the 4 cougars plugged into pump, and plug that all into controller?

Sorry for the noob ?, but when I built my PC in November (my first build ever), I was thinking of a fan controller, but didn't get one. Now that the H100 noise showed up (6 months after purchase), I want to try this solution.


----------



## wlw wl

Any fan controller (not PWM, voltage) and a 3-pin to 4-pin adapter. Leave the fans connected to the pump, you'll keep the auto speed variation if it works with your fans. Just make sure the controller has 1A or 12W per channel minimum.

Digital interface, huh? I'm just making such a thing with USB interface.

The problem with simple voltage regulators (fan controllers) is that they will have a mostly linear range from 0V to 12V, so what you're interested in - 10V to 12V - will be just a fraction of the scale, not allowing for precise regulation.


----------



## insertacoolname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximuscr31*
> 
> Mine has been silent for 4 months now since bought. I still think it has alot to do with your power supply/


mmmhm, no my power supply is running at 12.078V and I am getting the noise off and on...


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *insertacoolname*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> insertacoolname - you mean an H60? It shouldn't be powered from a variable voltage source to begin with, it should be connected to PWR_FAN which always runs at full speed. So you just made the opposite thing to this fix. You un-fixed it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Huh, fancy that. Will it make a difference?
Click to expand...

If your unit isn't noisy at full speed, then that's what you're looking for. Try connecting it to a PWR_FAN header or just directly to the PSU with a fan adapter and see for yourself


----------



## DeviiL

Hello,
I purchased a new H100 from Amazon last week and when I first turned it on, it sounded like a hdd working. The temps were great but the noise was always constant and annoying
Did a quick google search and found this thread. First I want to say thanks to wlw wl for your support. I made and adapter following your guide. Just connected it and sounds good








My pump rpm was 2136rpm before and now with the adapter its 1948rpm, is this considered a safe speed for the pump?

Thank you.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoterioN*
> 
> Any brand recommendations? or if anyone else wants to recommend - I would like to get a fan controller to address this, I'm using H100 w/4 Cougar Vortex PWM fans in p/p config. I know I have to find one w/4 pin molex. Would love a recommendation, and would prefer a digital interface if possible.
> Re: installation of a fan controller, would I connect the 4 Cougars into the controller, and the pump separately in the controller? Is it by dialing back the pump w/fan controller that would reduce the noise? or would I leave the 4 cougars plugged into pump, and plug that all into controller?
> Sorry for the noob ?, but when I built my PC in November (my first build ever), I was thinking of a fan controller, but didn't get one. Now that the H100 noise showed up (6 months after purchase), I want to try this solution.


I bought the Lamptron Touch fan controller and really like it. The screen has some minor light bleeding around the edges, and you can only view information on one channel at a time, but these are minor drawbacks. Overall I found it to be very good, albeit a bit expensive at about $70.

http://lamptron.com/products/view/Fan_Controller_Touch

By the way, if you want to see RPM information for the pump on the fan controller, you'll need to add in the other cable coming from the pump and combine it into the power cable using a splitter or custom cable and run it to the fan header on the controller. See some of my posts a few pages back for info on that.


----------



## wlw wl

DeviiL - yes that's perfectly safe, provided that the temperature is good.


----------



## ehow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviiL*
> 
> Hello,
> I purchased a new H100 from Amazon last week and when I first turned it on, it sounded like a hdd working. The temps were great but the noise was always constant and annoying
> Did a quick google search and found this thread. First I want to say thanks to wlw wl for your support. I made and adapter following your guide. Just connected it and sounds good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My pump rpm was 2136rpm before and now with the adapter its 1948rpm, is this considered a safe speed for the pump?
> Thank you.


That's great







I bought my h100 around the same time as you did at amazon as well. I have yet to put together as I'm still waiting for the final parts to show up.. u got to love their free shipping.. never use them again. Anywho, what is your lot code just curious.


----------



## DeviiL

Yes, temperatures are great until now. Will continue monitoring for the next couple of days to see if there's any difference.
Thank you


----------



## DeviiL

My lot code is 11499403
I ordered from the Italian Amazon site, It was cheaper for me even paying the shipping costs.


----------



## daniman444

It's a shame mine only stops grinding at 1500RPM, I mean it's awesome it stopped grinding, but I get lower performance in terms of overclocked CPU temperatures...


----------



## juneau78

after 6 months finally the legendary grinding noise comes to me at last.
firstly a gentle tap with a finger to the block would eliminate the noise, but its get annoying when the noise keeps reappearing after 5-10 minutes. so i decided im gonna try what the op have suggested.
wish me luck guys.


----------



## VigilVindex

Any update on this? I just bought my H100 a few days ago from Ebuyer.com and have had it running for less than two days and it has started to make the noise. I am gutted. Is there a fix or do I have to RMA? Are they sending out replacements? I don't have anything else to use in the meantime, spent all my money on the H100 expecting the same reliability from Corsair that I get with their PSU's. Major disappointment.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VigilVindex*
> 
> Any update on this? I just bought my H100 a few days ago from Ebuyer.com and have had it running for less than two days and it has started to make the noise. I am gutted. Is there a fix or do I have to RMA? Are they sending out replacements? I don't have anything else to use in the meantime, spent all my money on the H100 expecting the same reliability from Corsair that I get with their PSU's. Major disappointment.


Just curious, did you mount the radiator with both tubes at the bottom?


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Guys, I'm really sorry - had some tragic family stuff to take care of so I've been out of the office since I got back from Computex.

I meant to get back to you sooner - work has been done in the meantime, but it'll take me a few more days to sort it all out and figure out what the solution is/was, and how it can help you guys.


----------



## christpunchers

Mine just began to make this tiny buzzing noise... like a small hard drive somewhere in the distance rapidly seeking.


----------



## wlw wl

George - knowing that you're on top of this is enough, if this is meant to be a permanent solution to the whole situation, it's bound to take some time. And I think we already have enough temporary fixes.

And of course personal matters take the highest priority for anyone and I hope everything is, or will be, fine.

Oh, and if I missed someone's PM - every adapter that was supposed to be sent - has been sent. 36 envelopes have been posted on Monday, all Express as usual, so refer to the ETAs I've given you, or: <7 days for (most of) Europe / 7 days for UK, USA, Canada / 7 - 14 days for other parts of the world such as Australia.


----------



## christpunchers

Does anyone know what type of adapter to look for if I want to connect the pump to a controller? All the molex to 3pin's that I have are molex to 3pin Male, which can't be connected to the controller. I guess I'm looking for a molex to 3pin female? Can't seem to find any of those around where I am.


----------



## SuperKW

you need this cable

http://www.amazon.com/3pin-power-4pin-molex-adapter/dp/B000H25PBK/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1340226540&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=femal+molex+to+femal+3pin


----------



## JayWill411

RAM GUY posted an update not long ago on the Corsair support forums ...
Quote:


> Just got an update and they are going to be available by next week. If there are any changes again, I will keep you guys updated. Again, Thank you all for being patient.


http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=585607&postcount=869

Good stuff!


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperKW*
> 
> you need this cable
> http://www.amazon.com/3pin-power-4pin-molex-adapter/dp/B000H25PBK/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1340226540&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=femal+molex+to+femal+3pin


In addition to that cable, you can also get one of these ...

http://www.amazon.com/Individually-Sleeved-Female-Premium-CB-3P-Y/dp/B003ZDNXZ8

to patch in the RPM tach cable off the pump so you can see RPM info on your fan controller screen.


----------



## SuperKW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayWill411*
> 
> In addition to that cable, you can also get one of these ...
> http://www.amazon.com/Individually-Sleeved-Female-Premium-CB-3P-Y/dp/B003ZDNXZ8
> to patch in the RPM tach cable off the pump so you can see RPM info on your fan controller screen.


im using CPUID HWMonitor to show the rpm, don't really want to mess with so many cables


----------



## gregkwaste

Hi to all out there..

I bought mine 2 days ago, i finished will all arrangements yesterday afternoon. To be honest, i have never ever had any hydrocooling system, so i do(did........) not know fully what is the correct behaviour with that. When i did the arrangements to the tower i had it on the side, silent as hell with great cooling. Then i came up with the magnificent idea to turn it upwards while it was working... Thats it... Immediately started to make that hdd sound...

The thing is that today, i removed it and made some tests with a spare PSU i have: When the pump is higher than the radiator the sound dissapears, i can hear some water going in the pump but not that disturbing sound that made before. After that and while its on, i try to turn it on the allignment that the system will have when mounted inside the tower, the noise appears again....

Seriously i don't know what to do, i have no other cooling system right now, i have to use my sister's pc, and except that, i am not willing to pay shipping to corsair to send me a unit that will be faulty up again... From the other hand i hope that it may be air that causes all this stuff that mixed up with the liquid while i was doing all this moving, but then how much time to i have to wait for a bubble to get removed...
I am also considering the fan controller solution, because it covers up the voltage dropping stuff and it adds something to my pc too...

I will contact my supplier that gave me 5 yars of warranty (NOT EVEN 2 DAYS NEEDED........) but seriously i don't want to get h80 again, so i would kindly ask about similar products from other companies.


----------



## ChronosZ

Hello,

Yes yet another new OCN user. I would just like to add that I am also having issues with a recently purchased Corsair H100. Summary of my situation:

Installed H100 and had the "HDD like clicking/seeking" noises from the very start. The clicking is very noticeable and I don't consider myself particularly sensitive to general computer/fan noises. Also I am running an SSD so unless those can click/seek I am reluctant to blame the HDD for the noise.
The H100 radiator is installed at the top of my case positioned horizontally with the CPU block sitting below it.
I am using a Corsair AX-1200 PSU
A few friend's of mine are experiencing this exact same issue.
In doing testing I disconnected every possible fan and HDD and the clicking continued. Disconnected power from the H100 CPU block and the noise was no longer present (basically confirmed that the noise was isolated to the H100).
I have read this thread from the start to where I am posting now and I would like to thank wlw wl for all his hard work and finally gaining the attention of Corsair who will hopefully take ownership of this issue and get things fixed up for the customers who are experiencing this problem.

It was a huge relief to know I wasn't the only person experiencing this very frustrating problem. Hopefully Corsair gets it fixed ASAP.


----------



## kizwan

What is your H100 lot code? You can find it on the serial/bar code sticker on the box (above "CWCH100").


----------



## ChronosZ

12099403


----------



## gregkwaste

Ok i sent the h80 back to the reseller's service for check. 99% the will give me a new one. The point is that i am still very pessimistic about the new one too, so i'd like to be covered with some solutions to check out first before asking my money back. As i said before i'd like to buy a fan controller, that will do the job right? I will be able to lower the voltage through the rpms. Also i read a few posts ago that a converter cable is needed. If my controller has molex inputs i don't need this right?


----------



## wlw wl

gregkwaste - if your H80 was rattling in the upwards position and stopped when tilting the case, that's the bearing issue. Now if you move the radiator below the pump, the air will go to the pump, which might stop the rattling, but in turn you will have worse cooling efficiency.
If you want to experiment, you can get a 3-pin to 4-pin adapter and use a motherboard fan header instead of a fan controller. However if you get a fan controller, make sure it's not a PWM controller (like the one the H80 uses for its fans) but a normal voltage controller. Zalman FanMate might work, it's a simple as it gets. Sunbeam Rheostat would be a next step up, but it uses the same basic functionality, a potentiometer on a base of a power transistor. The downside of those controllers is that they have a scale of 0V to (about) 12V, so the range of your interest, 10V to 12V, will be just a little turn of the knob, so not much precision there: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article84-page3.html

ChronosZ - it appears that the official fix will be in place soon, as Ram Guy said on the official forum. The noise is indeed annoying, but the H50 I have is making the same noise and buzzing like an old transformer on top of that, at least the H60/80/100 problem can be addressed but not this


----------



## gregkwaste

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> gregkwaste - if your H80 was rattling in the upwards position and stopped when tilting the case, that's the bearing issue. Now if you move the radiator below the pump, the air will go to the pump, which might stop the rattling, but in turn you will have worse cooling efficiency.
> If you want to experiment, you can get a 3-pin to 4-pin adapter and use a motherboard fan header instead of a fan controller. However if you get a fan controller, make sure it's not a PWM controller (like the one the H80 uses for its fans) but a normal voltage controller. Zalman FanMate might work, it's a simple as it gets. Sunbeam Rheostat would be a next step up, but it uses the same basic functionality, a potentiometer on a base of a power transistor. The downside of those controllers is that they have a scale of 0V to (about) 12V, so the range of your interest, 10V to 12V, will be just a little turn of the knob, so not much precision there: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article84-page3.html


To be honest, the first power on of the h80 was on the side position, after i was sure that everything was ok, i closed the system, and reverted back to the upwards position. Not a single rattle.
I then experienced some temp issues and i was told to turn the cpu block 90 degrees CW or CCW in order to get better cooling. That change happened in side position, still no rattle. The problem started after tilting while the system was on as i described before...

Yes indeed i tried that with the radiator position and the rattling went away, i didn't notice that this was air though







, but again the rattling stopped for a short period of time...

I didn't manage to test it with the cpu fan controller, i had no time actually, guess i'll try this as soon as the faulty replacement comes back









I didn't also think of that scale "problem". I see now why the dropper is the best choice so the rest of the conversation will be on pm's ^^

Thanks


----------



## wlw wl

Or maybe you'll just get a good replacement and end of story


----------



## SuperKW

Just got my Lamptron touch FC ,i connected the pump to it and the noise stopped @98% , CPUID HWMonitor reading the rpm @1900-1967
i didn't received my molex to 3pin adapter yet, so i made this temporary cable my self










Finally no more noise


----------



## fc0712

should i just rma my h100 when they released the fix?


----------



## wlw wl

Wait for official info on the procedure, if it will be just a normal RMA or maybe something different.


----------



## van13330gg

My house's H50 is getting delivered back to Corsair as I write. Hopefully something will be done. I came home from college to hear the HTPC sounding like the suction tube my dentist uses.


----------



## wlw wl

H50 is a totally different design, while H60/80/100 pump is basically a PC fan, the H50 is a pump you'd find a dishwasher or washing machine. And it has less customizable AC motor driver. Sounds like yours lost some water? Was it still under warranty?


----------



## insertacoolname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Wait for official info on the procedure, if it will be just a normal RMA or maybe something different.


Just tried to RMA my H60, they said that they would not RMA it at the moment and a fix would be available in the not too near future, and that I would be informed when it was available.

Edit: after closer reading their exact words were "It will be announced on the forums. in a week or two. we are working to get units ready for shipment." Hopefully that means they already have a fix.


----------



## bgineng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *insertacoolname*
> 
> "It will be announced on the forums. in a week or two. we are working to get units ready for shipment."


Wooooooooooo!


----------



## baboyizm

Just got my adapter in the mail. I'm now running at 1898-1959 rpm. Before I was at 2170 rpm and the pump was very loud. Thank you wlw wl.


----------



## ehow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baboyizm*
> 
> Just got my adapter in the mail. I'm now running at 1898-1959 rpm. Before I was at 2170 rpm and the pump was very loud. Thank you wlw wl.


Mine seems to be stable at 1959 rpm but then it occasionally goes up to 2023 and still no noise! This is what I wanted and expected it as I do not have fans hooked up to the pump so it will keep rpm up as close as the stock speed with no noise, plus I get to use my cougar vortex fans


----------



## wlw wl

Good to know it's working for you guys, it makes for a much nicer cooler when it's not grinding, doesn't it?


----------



## moonglade

Hey everyone,

Success! The adapter got my pump down to 1950-2000 RPM and there is no noise. The temps are just a few degrees warmer at idle.

Thanks wlw_wl!


----------



## dazbobaby

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> dazbobaby - 10*C idle? What the heck is your ambient
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even the Corasir doesn't have the new unit in-house yet, so you can't expect the shops to have them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr-Mechraven - connect it directly to the PSU and see what RPM you get then. You might be looking at an RMA.


As i expected, it'll be a while before the perfect batch hits the shops.
my room temp is around 20c give or take 2-3c
This is also on the lowest fan speed setting.

I leave the Pc on overnight streaming to my ipad/phone, so once I'm asleep it does nothing, it then hits around 8-10c.
I have 1x 12cm intake fan that came with the case, 2x 12cm exhaust fans - 1x top 1x side, and the 2x H80 stock fans. It's also a nice big (one up from midi) case.
Aside from the impeller noise it's almost silent.

I don't overclock, is there a real need on a Bulldozer 8120? Just because you can doesn't mean you have too, right?
I was put off overclocking many years ago by disastrous results, so I tend to buy ahead of the game (or the best I can afford) and settle with that.


----------



## wlw wl

moonglade - you're welcome









dazbobaby - if your ambient is 20 degrees, the coolant temp will be no less than 20 degrees. So either that 10 degrees you talk about is the delta from ambient, or you have a serious misreading. Or your slowdozer actually sucks in the energy instead of dissipating it


----------



## dazbobaby

Car radiators work the same way, once the engine gets got, air is pushed passed the fins and cools the radiator/engine.

Same for a PC. Dont forget that when you blow air it get's compressed slightly, and that compression cools the liquid down. Liquid is still the best way of cooling a pc.

http://computer.howstuffworks.com/liquid-cooled-pc.htm


----------



## xaviergzz

dazbobaby, i dont think that you can cool liquid any lower that room temperature using just air at room temperature, no matter how big is your radiator, or how many or how fats is your radiators fan. it will just cool the liquid in the radiator up to the room temperature. ( please ANYONE correct me if I am wrong)

Where are you getting your readings? link software? if so try different software like hwmonitor.

Oh yerah and post pics please.


----------



## dazbobaby

I'm using coretemp for my reading.
Previously on a Cooler Master HS/fan I got around 20c idle, and up to 60c on full load.

Dont forget blowing air is compressed air, and compressed air get colder.

Dwm 2012-06-24 19-00-51-67.jpg 223k .jpg file


running at 12c, the day is getting slightly warmer and I've just installed 2x HDD's that were running via USB.
I will take a pic from bios and upload that too.


----------



## bgineng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dazbobaby*
> 
> joined just so I can post this.
> I'm not sure where to find the batch number, but I purchased a H80 today, the store had just got them in too.
> I am also having a problem with rattling from the CPU header.
> Is this the new batch? I doubt it. It'd take weeks to manufacture, test, and ship. So if I'd known I'd have waited a few weeks.
> Damn shame too, idle temps are around 10c, load around 40c on a bulldozer 8 core.


Yeah the temperature sensors in bulldozer are not accurate at idle. Search for reviews of bulldozer cpus and go to the power usage/temperature section. Everyone has this problem with them. It is not possible to use a radiator to cool to less than ambient temp.


----------



## dazbobaby

prime95 temps.jpg 496k .jpg file


temperature hwmonitor and coretemp.jpg 437k .jpg file


IMG_0632.JPG 371k .JPG file


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dazbobaby*
> 
> Dont forget blowing air is compressed air, and compressed air get colder.


Not true.
No significant compression there. Air needs energy when it's decompressing, so it draws heat from its surroundings. But when it's compressing, it's dissipating the same amount of energy, in form of a heat. Energy balance.
The only thing you can do is dissipate the heat in one area by compressing a gas, transfer that compressed gas to another area and decompress it there. You cool down one area at the cost of heating up the other, that's how a freezer works. And you have to add the heat that the compressor itself generates, and you don't have a balance anymore. That's why leaving a running freezer open will heat up the room, not cool it down.

You can't cool anything below ambient with standard water cooling, and even if you could, that would be a bad idea because the loop, being sub-ambient, would cause condensation. You would get water dripping of the tubes and blocks inside your PC. Look at any LN2 cooling photos, you'll see ice everywhere. The same water from the air that forms the ice there would condense on your sub-ambient loop.

Your temperature is just a misreading.


----------



## dazbobaby

seems there is a problem with temperature readings:
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7226850#post7226850

no one solution is accurate.

All I'll say is my core temps are down by half, that also means my CPU temp is down too, by how much I dont know.


----------



## AerieAngel

@wl wlw
What tool did you use to crimp the molex pins around the 4001s? Those are really nice crimps you have.
I've been making my own, but use precrimped wire to molex pins just cuz it is hard to get such nice crimps by hand.


----------



## wlw wl

Some tool that I found in a shop where I buy the 18 AWG wire - TAB CONNECTOR CRIMPER YYT11
It's too big so I have to crimp every connector twice, once for the non-insulated part, and once for the insulated part.
The MDPC tool + postage was ridiculously priced so I didn't go for that. This tool does its job for big Molex pins, it does not for the ATX pins - like I said, it's too big, from 0,5mm2 up.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dazbobaby*
> 
> seems there is a problem with temperature readings:
> http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7226850#post7226850
> no one solution is accurate.
> All I'll say is my core temps are down by half, that also means my CPU temp is down too, by how much I dont know.


Dude, I'm having some difficulty concentrating on the H100 modification/revision, that avatar of yours is distracting.


----------



## wlw wl

You mean the ridiculously huge glasses?


----------



## MeanBruce

Glasses? I just thought someone put two cupcakes on her head. Truly it's the best avatar I have seen so far, made me look twice.









Has Mr. Redbeard (Corsair George) or Yellowbeard given any further info on how the RMAs are going to work? Also will the revised versions have any special identification or labeling or dated lot number on the box so enthusiasts know they indeed have the revised or better screened edition?


----------



## wlw wl

No new info, I also haven't got any e-mail response from George since Computex. RamGuy posted some info over at their forum that they should have the new/revised units in-house this week.

And that's all we know at this time.

Interesting fact - I took apart the H50 I had, because it started grinding too, and it has the same issue - ceramic bearing/shaft tolerance issue, resulting in the impeller being a bit loose on the shaft, and it grinds in some positions but doesn't in others - "tilt the case on it's side" anyone?







Of course the pump is generally different, but it shares the same flaw apparently.


----------



## bbonator

All right, i have a basic question, hope you can answer it. As i reside at a place where shipping my h100 to RMA is too expensive (i don't know why, as Mexico is right next to the USA), i planned on dropping the voltage via resistor, but as i saw your model, im building myself a diode adapter like yours; does the current flow across the rectifying diode is the same as a resistor, so i have to put the cathode (silver stripe?) facing (or closer) to the power supply in order to get current flowing through it? Thanks in advance!


----------



## wlw wl

Nope, the other way around, the stripe has to be facing away from the PSU, that is if you're putting it on the +12V line. If you're putting it on the GND line, then it has to be facing towards the PSU, but I suggest the first solution.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Still here, have a conference call tomorrow with what should be the final details on how it all should work. I'll post more at the end of the week. Thanks for being so patient, I've had some rough personal issues to deal with otherwise this would be handled by now. Sorry guys.


----------



## soundx98

Good Luck with the personal issues. Hope everything works out for you.


----------



## e7monk

Bought a H100 yesterday. Pump was the loudest thing in my case. Applied the diode fix using a 1N4004 and I now have a silent H100. Pump hovers between 1890 and 1950rpm. Thank you so much for the help wlw wl.


----------



## bbonator

Quote:


> Nope, the other way around, the stripe has to be facing away from the PSU, that is if you're putting it on the +12V line. If you're putting it on the GND line, then it has to be facing towards the PSU, but I suggest the first solution.


All right! thank you very much, you've been by far the most helpful person for us all


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> Still here, have a conference call tomorrow with what should be the final details on how it all should work. I'll post more at the end of the week. Thanks for being so patient, I've had some rough personal issues to deal with otherwise this would be handled by now. Sorry guys.


Thanks George, and hope you get those issues worked out, you have been most informative on updates. Let us know when the new H100 units come so I can RMA my unit, I will wait until then.

One remark I must give on Corsair's forum. I noticed that just about any other brand is censored on that site, why is that? I understand it may be part of the TOU, but why is it part of the TOU? It seems to be very silly to me, and way too restrictive. It's not like anyone is swaying others from using Corsair's products. I know this is a little off topic, but a complaint of many.


----------



## Maxxron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> Still here, have a conference call tomorrow with what should be the final details on how it all should work. I'll post more at the end of the week. Thanks for being so patient, I've had some rough personal issues to deal with otherwise this would be handled by now. Sorry guys.


Thanks for the update. Stay strong man and keep up the good work.


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwebmasta*
> 
> One remark I must give on Corsair's forum. I noticed that just about any other brand is censored on that site, why is that? I understand it may be part of the TOU, but why is it part of the TOU? It seems to be very silly to me, and way too restrictive. It's not like anyone is swaying others from using Corsair's products. I know this is a little off topic, but a complaint of many.


Wired (or RamGuy?) said that there have been "overzealous" users in the past and they decided to introduce the filter because of that.

Psst!








Ever wondered how your H60/80/100 looks like inside? Hint: *exactly* like Alphacool DC-LT Ceramic.
Wonder if these have the bearing problem too


----------



## di inferi

Gotta love Corsair!

I will be patiently awaiting a fix for this!


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwebmasta*
> 
> Thanks George, and hope you get those issues worked out, you have been most informative on updates. Let us know when the new H100 units come so I can RMA my unit, I will wait until then.
> One remark I must give on Corsair's forum. I noticed that just about any other brand is censored on that site, why is that? I understand it may be part of the TOU, but why is it part of the TOU? It seems to be very silly to me, and way too restrictive. It's not like anyone is swaying others from using Corsair's products. I know this is a little off topic, but a complaint of many.


A while back some people joined up and started spamming the name of one of our competitors in every thread. Even if it wasn't related. It was a bunch of random accounts, and as soon as we'd ban one, two more would show up. It was immature and stupid, and it made it hard to help people.

Ram Guy (our Tech Support Manager for the past like 10 years) decided to put the filter into place. I'm not sure why it's still there, probably for the same reason. He'd be the best guy to ask about that.

Good news - we have known good units. We've isolated the problem, fixed it, and have put a very aggressive screen in place to catch any "bad" units.

I will have some instructions on who to contact for your RMA later this week - we're just awaiting the arrival of the units and setting it all up from customer service so that people who contact us using this method will get their replacements promptly.


----------



## TemplarLord

I received my H80 yesterday and installed it but had the grinding noise from the start, doesn't matter if the case is tilted, in a horizontal position or in vertical position. Though I have to say it's not that noisy but it is more audible than anything else in my case(8 fans).

I've been looking into this solution as posted by cooldemon. I wanted to ask can I substitute the 3-pin fan splitter for this -> Sharkoon 3 pin Voltage Adapter Cable.

Thanks!


----------



## wlw wl

Why 3-pin, you need big 4-pin Molex for H80 and H100. And that cable looks like it's using a resistor so it's not very good, and 9,5V is too low as well (and that's probably not constant).


----------



## TemplarLord

@wlw wl

It would look like this

Corsair H80 4-pin molex -> 4-pin molex to 3-pin molex -> Sharkoon 3-pin Voltage -> Scythe fan controller

So 9.5V is too low? I'll have to order one off ebay or somewhere, combed through the entire town today no one has anything similar to it.


----------



## wlw wl

You don't need that Sharkoon thing, just the first adapter and you can hook it up to any fan controller. Make sure the Scythe controller has at least 12W per channel.


----------



## TemplarLord

Huh, I do have the adapter 4-pin to 3-pin, I'll try it once I get off work. I'm using the Scythe Kaze Master, it says it outputs 1A and 12W per channel so that should be good. I'll post my findings once I try it out.

Thanks wlw wl +rep


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> A while back some people joined up and started spamming the name of one of our competitors in every thread. Even if it wasn't related. It was a bunch of random accounts, and as soon as we'd ban one, two more would show up. It was immature and stupid, and it made it hard to help people.
> Ram Guy (our Tech Support Manager for the past like 10 years) decided to put the filter into place. I'm not sure why it's still there, probably for the same reason. He'd be the best guy to ask about that.
> Good news - we have known good units. We've isolated the problem, fixed it, and have put a very aggressive screen in place to catch any "bad" units.
> I will have some instructions on who to contact for your RMA later this week - we're just awaiting the arrival of the units and setting it all up from customer service so that people who contact us using this method will get their replacements promptly.


Thanks George, that helps to explain some things. Looking forward to the new H100's.


----------



## ZombieSmash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> Good news - we have known good units. We've isolated the problem, fixed it, and have put a very aggressive screen in place to catch any "bad" units.
> I will have some instructions on who to contact for your RMA later this week - we're just awaiting the arrival of the units and setting it all up from customer service so that people who contact us using this method will get their replacements promptly.


Hi George,

Could you please also confirm that those RMA processes will be available to Australian users.

I have been following this thread for the last week or so after my brother and I both purchased H100's to use in our new builds, but were dismayed to find that both our units suffer from the dreaded grind noise. We were somewhat deflated as we both have used Corsair parts in our machines for years, and have spent a sizable sum on corsair components for this current build (H100, AX1200 gold, 16gb [email protected]) so we are very much hoping that Corsair will do right by us.

Cheers


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> Good news - we have known good units. We've isolated the problem, fixed it, and have put a very aggressive screen in place to catch any "bad" units.
> I will have some instructions on who to contact for your RMA later this week - we're just awaiting the arrival of the units and setting it all up from customer service so that people who contact us using this method will get their replacements promptly.


That's indeed good news, thanks George









Would there be any way to order one of the new batch/lots directly (aside from crossing fingers w/ online vendors)?
I'm presuming older lot #s are still going to be predominant in shops inventory for a while etc.


----------



## TemplarLord

Just wanted to report my results, the 4-pin molex to 3-pin molex adapter, combined with the fan controller, works flawlessly. The pump is as silent as it should be(no more grinding noise), it's running at ~1950RPM right now and it's great.

Good news from Corsair too, if I have more problems later on at least I know I'll get a good unit


----------



## hiddeb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TemplarLord*
> 
> Just wanted to report my results, the 4-pin molex to 3-pin molex adapter, combined with the fan controller, works flawlessly. The pump is as silent as it should be(no more grinding noise), it's running at ~1950RPM right now and it's great.
> Good news from Corsair too, if I have more problems later on at least I know I'll get a good unit


Bought the same stuff.







I hope it works for me too!


----------



## di inferi

Are you guys also experiencing an LED that won't light on the fan controller?


----------



## TemplarLord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *di inferi*
> 
> Are you guys also experiencing an LED that won't light on the fan controller?


What exactly do you mean? If you want the RPM to be displayed on the fan controller LED display you have to plug in the one single pin that goes directly from the H80(from the 3-pin you most likely connected to the motherboard) to the controller itself.

From the 4-pin molex to the 3-pin adapter you only have 2 wires, you can use the third empty slot to 'move' the pin from the H80 3-pin connector to the adapter's single free slot.

This guy explains removing the pin from the connector itself, follow instructions from 'The tricky part'.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiddeb*
> 
> Bought the same stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope it works for me too!


i was so happy when I turned on the PC just to hear no grinding noise







hope it works for you too man.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *di inferi*
> 
> Are you guys also experiencing an LED that won't light on the fan controller?


I think he means on the pump. The LEDs for low medium and high fan settings.
For me the low, medium and high all light up just fine.
The person in the bottom right corner does not light up for me. Also, I have heard of some people having blue LEDs on the pump unit instead of white. I actually think someone mentioned that here in this thread as well. I'm not sure what the LEDs do if you have a Corsair Link module plugged in to the unit. Maybe that changes the color? I don't know.
Either way, I'm guessing the person icon doesn't light up.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> A while back some people joined up and started spamming the name of one of our competitors in every thread. Even if it wasn't related. It was a bunch of random accounts, and as soon as we'd ban one, two more would show up. It was immature and stupid, and it made it hard to help people.
> Ram Guy (our Tech Support Manager for the past like 10 years) decided to put the filter into place. I'm not sure why it's still there, probably for the same reason. He'd be the best guy to ask about that.
> Good news - we have known good units. We've isolated the problem, fixed it, and have put a very aggressive screen in place to catch any "bad" units.
> I will have some instructions on who to contact for your RMA later this week - we're just awaiting the arrival of the units and setting it all up from customer service so that people who contact us using this method will get their replacements promptly.


Awesome. Thanks for helping make this happen. I'm looking forward to having a H100 in my machine that's running at its maximum potential (and quiet). This has been a long haul for many but it looks like the light at the end of the tunnel is shining bright.


----------



## Flick75

I'm not going to RMA mine. To much of a pain to uninstall and reinstall. I'm happy with the 200 rpm drop from the diode I soldered in to the adapter that wlw_wl recommended. Not worth it considering the cooling difference is realistically insignificant....maybe 1C at most.

That said, I hope everyone else who has significant problems get's an RMA unit up to snuff when they're available.


----------



## Bum01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> A while back some people joined up and started spamming the name of one of our competitors in every thread. Even if it wasn't related. It was a bunch of random accounts, and as soon as we'd ban one, two more would show up. It was immature and stupid, and it made it hard to help people.
> Ram Guy (our Tech Support Manager for the past like 10 years) decided to put the filter into place. I'm not sure why it's still there, probably for the same reason. He'd be the best guy to ask about that.
> Good news - we have known good units. We've isolated the problem, fixed it, and have put a very aggressive screen in place to catch any "bad" units.
> I will have some instructions on who to contact for your RMA later this week - we're just awaiting the arrival of the units and setting it all up from customer service so that people who contact us using this method will get their replacements promptly.


Thanks for keeping us posted. I had already returned one unit to frys because of the noise and the new one i bought had the noise as well.








So eagerly awaiting the RMA process.


----------



## james_ant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD4ME*
> 
> Not all Corsair vendors are premium vendors IMO as reflected in the number of defective products shipped, recalled, etc.


How can you say that not all of their vendors are premium vendors "in your opinion?" They either are or their not right? It's not an opinion and if you don't know then maybe you shouldn't be saying anything.


----------



## di inferi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> I think he means on the pump. The LEDs for low medium and high fan settings.
> For me the low, medium and high all light up just fine.
> The person in the bottom right corner does not light up for me. Also, I have heard of some people having blue LEDs on the pump unit instead of white. I actually think someone mentioned that here in this thread as well. I'm not sure what the LEDs do if you have a Corsair Link module plugged in to the unit. Maybe that changes the color? I don't know.
> Either way, I'm guessing the person icon doesn't light up.


Ya, my high profile setting doesn't light up; at least normally. It sporadically turns on and off. Not that big of a deal to me since it still works...

Hopefully after this is said and done I will have a perfect unit.

Thanks.


----------



## SoterioN

Just curious re: the RMA process: will we have to disassemble and send in our current H100s before we get replacements? Just a lazy request, if we have to send it in first, any way we could pass on returning the back plate that sits behind the mobo? I'm dreading having to remove the mobo to replace this - I know many have done so, but I've seen how annoying it can be. Maybe I'm just being demanding at this point


----------



## Ryld Baenre

You can request an advance RMA which will allow the replacement to be sent out and then you return yours once it gets there. I would imagine you could just leave the backplate that came with the new one in the box on the return trip.


----------



## Dutambalu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoterioN*
> 
> Just curious re: the RMA process: will we have to disassemble and send in our current H100s before we get replacements? Just a lazy request, if we have to send it in first, any way we could pass on returning the back plate that sits behind the mobo? I'm dreading having to remove the mobo to replace this - I know many have done so, but I've seen how annoying it can be. Maybe I'm just being demanding at this point


Yeah im hoping that also. Since my motherboard doesnt align with my mobo case tray correctly, id have to take apart my whole rig just to get that backplate out aswell.

/crosses fingers


----------



## molleh

New user here. I started searching about H100 pump noise issues tonight because I couldn't take the grinding coming from my pump anymore! My system would be virtually silent if it wasn't for the grinding sound (reminds me of an old and noisy hard drive being accessed constantly)

I will definitely be requesting an RMA the moment they are available!


----------



## ZombieSmash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieSmash*
> 
> Hi George,
> Could you please also confirm that those RMA processes will be available to Australian users.
> I have been following this thread for the last week or so after my brother and I both purchased H100's to use in our new builds, but were dismayed to find that both our units suffer from the dreaded grind noise. We were somewhat deflated as we both have used Corsair parts in our machines for years, and have spent a sizable sum on corsair components for this current build (H100, AX1200 gold, 16gb [email protected]) so we are very much hoping that Corsair will do right by us.
> Cheers


Bump for an answer.


----------



## SurprisePizza

I got my voltage dropper from wlw_wl a few days ago, but unfortunately I'm one of the unlucky few that it doesn't help (if anything, my H100 sounds a _little_ rougher with the dropper installed. It was certainly worth a try for the price, but I'll have to wait to hear about the RMA process for somebody in the UK.

Thanks for keeping us posted, CorsairGeorge.


----------



## james_ant

Hey George, I have been having this sound on and off since I got it. Every time it would happen I could fix it by flicking the tubes. Ever since I moved the tube in a certain way at the connection to the pump it seems to have stopped.

I'm confused because it seems like it likely was caused by an air bubble getting caught in the pump. It seems odd that it would happen only some of the time and stop simply by flicking the tubes. So I don't know if it's a combination of what you guys have came up with or a air bubble in the pump.

In any case it seems to be working noise free now. But if the problem was caused by a faulty part would this reduce the lifespan of the H80?


----------



## ClemC

Hi guys. I haven't read through the whole thread, due to it's size. However, I build my new PC today and ended up here after concerns with my H80.

Before I installed it, I connected it to my old PC to make sure it wasn't leaking. During this time it made a rattling sort of noise, but I'd read they do this when they're first turned on while the air bubbles are smoothed out and after about 10 minutes, it went silent.

So this morning when I installed it into my new PC, I rotated it 90 degrees so the hoses are now at the top of the block. I did this because with the very stiff hoses, there was a a bit of pressure on the hose connections to the pump when mounted the conventional way (hoses on the right of pump).

However, now I'm getting a periodic rattle. The time between rattles and duration of the rattle seems to vary but it usually rattles for 1-10 seconds every 1-5 minutes.
I thought this may have just been more air bubbles introduced by the rotation of the pump which would sort themselves out. However I've had the thing running for over 5 hours and it doesn't seem to have improved, whereas when I ran the pump for the first time, the rattle lasted for less than 15 minutes.

Is the similar to the issue being discussed here, or is the discussion here more about a constant rattle that never stops?

Thanks.


----------



## ClemC

Strange, I just figured out when I run the H80 on my new Corsair AX750, it makes the rattling noise. However when I run the cooler of my old Antec True Power 650, it doesn't rattle at all.

Could this mean there's something wrong with my AX750?


----------



## Insomiyeah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClemC*
> 
> Hi guys. I haven't read through the whole thread, due to it's size. However, I build my new PC today and ended up here after concerns with my H80.
> Before I installed it, I connected it to my old PC to make sure it wasn't leaking. During this time it made a rattling sort of noise, but I'd read they do this when they're first turned on while the air bubbles are smoothed out and after about 10 minutes, it went silent.
> So this morning when I installed it into my new PC, I rotated it 90 degrees so the hoses are now at the top of the block. I did this because with the very stiff hoses, there was a a bit of pressure on the hose connections to the pump when mounted the conventional way (hoses on the right of pump).
> However, now I'm getting a periodic rattle. The time between rattles and duration of the rattle seems to vary but it usually rattles for 1-10 seconds every 1-5 minutes.
> I thought this may have just been more air bubbles introduced by the rotation of the pump which would sort themselves out. However I've had the thing running for over 5 hours and it doesn't seem to have improved, whereas when I ran the pump for the first time, the rattle lasted for less than 15 minutes.
> Is the similar to the issue being discussed here, or is the discussion here more about a constant rattle that never stops?
> Thanks.


I have the same thing, on my old power supply it doesn't make the rattling noise but on my new power supply (dark power pro 10) it does make the noise, maybe because both our power supplies are 80+ (gold) certified the pump is getting exactly 12v or a little bit over that while the old supplies can't deliver enough volts. I don't know honesty, it's just a speculation.


----------



## ClemC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insomiyeah*
> 
> I have the same thing, on my old power supply it doesn't make the rattling noise but on my new power supply (dark power pro 10) it does make the noise, maybe because both our power supplies are 80+ (gold) certified the pump is getting exactly 12v or a little bit over that while the old supplies can't deliver enough volts. I don't know honesty, it's just a speculation.


That's a decent theory, you may be right.


----------



## ClemC

I tested both the AX750 and TP650 with my multimeter. TP650 was a solid 12v while the AX750 was a steady 12.1v.


----------



## ClemC

I made myself a reducer with a 1N4002 diode. This has brought the voltage down from 12.1 to 11.6/7 (it's bouncing around a bit). This thing is pretty ghetto, should I be worried about using it?


----------



## wlw wl

That depends on how well you made it


----------



## ClemC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> That depends on how well you made it


Well... It certainly doesn't look as good as the ones you made. You're not still selling them?


----------



## slizza

Doesn't get much later in the week than this and no word on this RMA. What a mess around.
How much longer are we expected to wait and use these defective irritating products?


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClemC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> That depends on how well you made it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well... It certainly doesn't look as good as the ones you made. You're not still selling them?
Click to expand...

Never have, strictly speaking. That would mean I charge for the time and labor but I don't, just the parts and postage. I will make some more in the following days.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slizza*
> 
> Doesn't get much later in the week than this and no word on this RMA. What a mess around.
> How much longer are we expected to wait and use these defective irritating products?


There's been some rant over at the Corsair forum about why George is posting here and not there, maybe the lack of response here is connected to that.

All I found is this "quiet" statement:
Quote:


> Please post in this thread if you have had your Cooler replaced and still have the noise and I will send you instructions to get the unit replaced.


here:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=107252


----------



## JayWill411

I'm giving it next week to see if they post a specific RMA process for the Hydro coolers. If we don't get one, I'm just going to call them and do a standard advanced RMA and see how it goes. Unless I hear otherwise, I'm going to assume that by now they have units in house that have been properly screened for the defect.


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Hi all,
Just got my H100 up and running yesterday only to find I'm facing this very issue







! Have there been any updates from Corsair regarding the fix, or is it still work-in-progress? Unfortunately RMA-ing the unit will be very expensive (sending it from Australia) so I'm still in search for a fix.

On a slightly different note, would anyone be able to explain how the 'profile' system on the H100 works? Basically, I've tried pressing the button and although the indicator lights change, the speed of the two radiator fans (that are connected to the H100) aren't affected. Are the connected fans meant to instantaneously change in speed or will they only get affected when temps rise?

Thanks

EDIT: Ran Prime95 and tried changing the profiles - seems to be working. The difference seems to be very slight (maybe because of the super loud pump noise) so I hope that I'm not just imagining the noise diff







.

In case Corsair doesn't release a fix soon, would anyone be willing to sell a fix (the one described by the OP)?


----------



## wlw wl

See 2 posts up, it seems you have to contact RamGuy for instructions, then send some e-mail somewhere and there seems to be some special RMA procedure for this (or not).

The profiles are based on the coolant temperature, I don't have the exact numbers in my head right now, but each profile represents a certain range of RPM in which the fans will be regulated.

You can PM me your details and I might make an adapter for you in some spare time.

ADD:

So far it doesn't look promising at all:

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=107252

and other threads. Doesn't seem like the *new* units are much of an improvement.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> See 2 posts up, it seems you have to contact RamGuy for instructions, then send some e-mail somewhere and there seems to be some special RMA procedure for this (or not).


RAMGUY specifically refers to people who have already gone through at least one RMA and received another defective unit though, which doesn't help people like me who have held off on even a first RMA until the issue was identified and resolved.


----------



## di inferi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayWill411*
> 
> RAMGUY specifically refers to people who have already gone through at least one RMA and received another defective unit though, which doesn't help people like me who have held off on even a first RMA until the issue was identified and resolved.


Same here. I knew I had a defective unit as soon as I turned it on: the high setting profile led wouldn't light up and of course that grinding sound. I have been waiting several months for a "clean" batch of units. It's not a HUGE deal because my H80 still basically functions fine; but I would still like a 100% functioning unit.

Nothing to do but the waiting game.


----------



## wlw wl

So you're saying that you have to go through _normal_ RMA process if you get a noisy unit out of the box? If so, hardly a solution I was expecting.
And also it seems that pointing out that the thing got rolling here and not on their forum had an effect, but the only effect was that George was told not to post here


----------



## nani17

I'm getting the grinding noise just got the H100 today


----------



## wlw wl

Sorry to hear that, I know how annoying it is.

So you have two ways: official or non-official.

Official involves returning the unit to either the place where you got it from (not a good idea, they don't have the supposedly _new_ and _problem-free_ [your results may vary] units), or directly to Corsair in The Netherlands (closest to your location) by courier and having the RMA approved first. The latter also means you have to pay for the courier, unles somehow you get the Advanced RMA.

Non-official involves a fan controller or an adapter.

Both ways are a gamble with the fan controller having the greatest chance of success at this time, followed by an adapter, then the RMA. Funny, but true.


----------



## cjavier

i want to thank to wlw wl for his magic fix

another happy noise free H80 user from Argentina

i can hear my hdd now, i just cant believe it!
thanks!


----------



## wlw wl

Hey man, you're welcome









No magic, just science!









And I believe that's the first adapter in South America, so I only have Greenland and Madagascar yet to cover


----------



## MeanBruce

He had a dream&#8230;his dream? To cover the globe with his magic adapters, to rid the world of evil technological designs forever, and bring peace to every village on the planet! (movie announcer voice)

Thanks for all the help wlw_wl.


----------



## wlw wl

I heard of a man who had a dream, and it didn't end very well for him.


----------



## ekoo

I've put three H100s in systems recently, one went into my friend's new build, one for my "old" system. Neither of those had any issues. When I finally got all the parts for my new gaming rig, and excitedly assembled it last night, this H100 makes the terrible grinding sound. I guess third time's the (unlucky) charm.

I guess I'll start the RMA process (which seems to be hit or miss), since it's the only noise in an otherwise near-silent system. I love corsair products, but this is really frustrating given how widespread the problem seems to be, and even their "solution" seems to be questionable.









Question: The cooler seems to actually still be doing its job just fine so far, albeit very noisily. Is it safe to run with the noisy H100 until I get it RMA'd, or is that asking for trouble?

Thanks.


----------



## wlw wl

I wouldn't want to keep a noisy one because I'd expect the rattle to have an effect on the bearing, causing excessive wear. But if you're only looking at a couple of weeks, you'll be fine as long as it doesn't drive you crazy


----------



## bgineng

I have used a noisy one for over 2 months now while waiting for an official fix so I can RMA it. It still works perfectly fine, it's just really annoying.


----------



## bwebmasta

I would advise anyone with a noisy unit, to get an RMA done when Corsair announces the new units that should have the issue resolved. The noise will get worse, and like ww said, excessive wear. Just my .2.


----------



## ekoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwebmasta*
> 
> I would advise anyone with a noisy unit, to get an RMA done when Corsair announces the new units that should have the issue resolved. The noise will get worse, and like ww said, excessive wear. Just my .2.


Yeah, see, this is where the confusion comes in.. Reading this post by Ram Guy on the Corsair forums, he seems to be directing people to RMA the product through the website first, and then only after you get another bad unit, you can use the "other" RMA process that involves contacting him or something. It's really some bizarre support they're giving on this.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=587979&postcount=935

Judging by the fact that Corsair is asking us to RMA it, does that mean that there's an official fix now? Or is this all just the big mess that it looks like.

Who should we listen to at this point?









(edit: I'm not bashing Corsair, I think they're a great company and I like their products, but this is a really bizarre issue. I've read through the majority of this thread and it seems that Corsair says they isolated the issue, but people are reporting issues with their RMAs. Maybe I'll just try my luck at a store return first before the RMA process.)


----------



## gregkwaste

Oh com'on guys, all the shipment costs for rma is ours. And its not a problem for ppl in the USA.. I am from Greece and in order to rma my second unit (has still minor issues) i need to pay almost the half of the H80 price to shipment costs.. No thank you... I'll stick with wlw 's cable or wait for a new batch to come over to my local shop and then use the warranty...


----------



## wlw wl

bgineng - I was thinking of a more prolonged use, and the unit not surviving it's 5 year warranty period

bwebmasta - they have announced them by now but it doesn't look as spectacular as I was led to believe it would be

gregkwaste - you would be sending it to The Netherlands and not the USA, but it would be pricey still

ADD:

So I read what _John the Ram Guy_ said, and it does indeed look like if you have a noisy H100, you have to go through a standard RMA, and then if you get a noisy replacement as well, you have to go through the RMA again "and they will take care of you", whatever that means. So for people outside of the US it basically means that you buy a $100 H100 and then you have to spend another $30 - $40 for the RMA, even though they have identified the issue and admitted they are flawed. COOL!

Like I said before, save yourself some time (and probably money) and just get an XSPC Rasa 750 RS 240 kit, or something similar. You'll get better temps, no noise and better looks.

Corsair, you blew this one as much as it could have possibly been blown.
And I don't understand why George was taken off this case (because it looks like he was), because he was the only reasonable man who was looking for *reasonable* solutions.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> I heard of a man who had a dream, and it didn't end very well for him.


All in jest good man, you know how much we applaud you!









Are any revised editions into the hands of customers yet?


----------



## wlw wl

RamGuy said something about "fix being ready for production", but George said something about only "tightening the screening process" so honestly I don't know if you can call them "revised" or not. I guess we'll wait and see.


----------



## ekoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Corsair, you blew this one as much as it could have possibly been blown.
> And I don't understand why George was taken off this case (because it looks like he was), because he was the only reasonable man who was looking for *reasonable* solutions.


Yeah, exactly, it's just kind of bizarre really. Usually they're top-notch on support, this is just being handled rather strangely, like no one knows the real fix. I hope they sort it out for their sake.

I'm going to try an exchange at my local store where I got my latest H100, since they just got a "new batch" in... will update on how it goes.

Interesting tidbit of info: the two that I got off Amazon.com are quiet, the one I got in a local store (with a later date stamp in the item code) was the noisy one. Here's hoping the new batch is good, or it's time to explore other options, but non-closed systems that you have to fill yourself scare me.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> bgineng - I was thinking of a more prolonged use, and the unit not surviving it's 5 year warranty period
> bwebmasta - they have announced them by now but it doesn't look as spectacular as I was led to believe it would be
> gregkwaste - you would be sending it to The Netherlands and not the USA, but it would be pricey still
> ADD:
> So I read what _John the Ram Guy_ said, and it does indeed look like if you have a noisy H100, you have to go through a standard RMA, and then if you get a noisy replacement as well, you have to go through the RMA again "and they will take care of you", whatever that means. So for people outside of the US it basically means that you buy a $100 H100 and then you have to spend another $30 - $40 for the RMA, even though they have identified the issue and admitted they are flawed. COOL!
> Like I said before, save yourself some time (and probably money) and just get an XSPC Rasa 750 RS 240 kit, or something similar. You'll get better temps, no noise and better looks.
> Corsair, you blew this one as much as it could have possibly been blown.
> And I don't understand why George was taken off this case (because it looks like he was), because he was the only reasonable man who was looking for *reasonable* solutions.


Very good post, along with some of my thoughts now. Now, with the new H100's, have you seen one? I have not seen anything in regards to a new updated cooler. Did I miss something?


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekoo*
> 
> Yeah, see, this is where the confusion comes in.. Reading this post by Ram Guy on the Corsair forums, he seems to be directing people to RMA the product through the website first, and then only after you get another bad unit, you can use the "other" RMA process that involves contacting him or something. It's really some bizarre support they're giving on this.
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=587979&postcount=935
> Judging by the fact that Corsair is asking us to RMA it, does that mean that there's an official fix now? Or is this all just the big mess that it looks like.
> Who should we listen to at this point?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (edit: I'm not bashing Corsair, I think they're a great company and I like their products, but this is a really bizarre issue. I've read through the majority of this thread and it seems that Corsair says they isolated the issue, but people are reporting issues with their RMAs. Maybe I'll just try my luck at a store return first before the RMA process.)


At this point, I am totally confused and honestly..really disappointed. Corsair really shot down the credibility and customer service on this H100 issue, and some members over @ Corsair's forum are not helping. The continued bashing of people that really do have an issue with the H100 is not acceptable, and neither is the fact you have to pay for shipping of a defective unit. Amazon does not do that, NewEgg, Dell, Crucial,







doesn't. Hmmm..


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Like I said before, save yourself some time (and probably money) and just get an XSPC Rasa 750 RS 240 kit, or something similar. You'll get better temps, no noise and better looks.


Some of those XSPC water kits carry very low prices. $119. $129. Less than an H100 and a couple RMAs.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_202_972&zenid=59e98ef0c9a65dea0ddd7a130321c5cb

Sure wish this Corsair solution was going to carry thru better, mine is so far a quiet unit, and have only had the terrible grinding noise during installation, that went away by tapping the pump, but have a new mobo install coming up and it may happen all over again. Kinda makes me mad since this issue is most likely holding up further units being developed in the Hydro series. I was really going to upgrade to a newer model next year with Haswell, whatever the model number was going to be, H120 or whatever, now I think I'm going to get into an XSPC Raystorm 240 kit with the variable speed pump, 5 pump speeds, no noise, sounds just right... Wishing everyone "Luck" with this issue, it's sad and a shame, really is.


----------



## wlw wl

bwebmasta - new H100 remains a legend so far and since I won't be getting or recommending them to anyone, I'm not likely to stumble upon one.

MeanBruce - Raystorm is the super-duper block/kit, I suggested Rasa as a stand-in for the H100, because it will perform much better and you can even hook another block to it with no problem. The RS120 would be a replacement for H80. Personally I'd stay with Rasa block but go for a better rad, RX or EX. Of course Raystorm + EX rad would be the best, but expensive








I'd bet my leg that even the Rasa 450 would outperform H100, possibly even Rasa 450 RS120 would beat it, because H100 doesn't make a full use of it's radiator due to the very weak pump (<2L/m which is <120L/m compared to Rasa 450 L/m or 750L/m). The old H50 pump was barely moving any water, but I'd say the H60 family pump is even worse.

Also if I wanted to buy XSPC Rasa 750 RS240, I'd pay not $130 like you, but $210. Gotta love EU taxes, don't you. And the H100 doesn't cost $100 here, but $150. First RMA would cost me $50 to send it to The Netherlands, and that would leave me with a $200 H100


----------



## JayWill411

Yeah I can't help but think this whole thing is going to end up being a black eye for Corsair ... at least with the enthusiast community, who are probably the primary buyers of the Hydro coolers. The effort they appear to be putting into this whole thing makes me feel like they don't really care, which is unfortunate. George came into this thread with guns blazing, but those guns have cooled and appear to be back in the holster. Maybe it's the life issues outside of work that he's going through, or maybe it's the consternation between this forum and the Corsair support forums.

Who knows.

What I do know however is that my recent PC build included a Corsair Case, a Corsair PSU, Corsair RAM, and a Corsair H100. The handling of the H100 issue leaves a bad taste in my mouth on the other products, even though they are working fine and I'm completely happy with them. The issue is not that my H100 makes noise ... computer components have issues sometimes. The issue is how all of this was handled. Maybe George's involvement a month ago set my expectations too high, but I thought this was going to be handled better. This will all be on my mind when I choose the components for my next build.

Ah well ... I'm going to get my RMA in and see how it goes. Good luck to the rest of you, especially our non-U.S. friends who it seems may have to fork up 20% to 30% of the unit's cost to exchange it.


----------



## Vakarian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> bwebmasta - new H100 remains a legend so far and since I won't be getting or recommending them to anyone, I'm not likely to stumble upon one.
> MeanBruce - Raystorm is the super-duper block/kit, I suggested Rasa as a stand-in for the H100, because it will perform much better and you can even hook another block to it with no problem. The RS120 would be a replacement for H80. Personally I'd stay with Rasa block but go for a better rad, RX or EX. Of course Raystorm + EX rad would be the best, but expensive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd bet my leg that even the Rasa 450 would outperform H100, possibly even Rasa 450 RS120 would beat it, because H100 doesn't make a full use of it's radiator due to the very weak pump (<2L/m which is <120L/m compared to Rasa 450 L/m or 750L/m). The old H50 pump was barely moving any water, but I'd say the H60 family pump is even worse.
> Also if I wanted to buy XSPC Rasa 750 RS240, I'd pay not $130 like you, but $210. Gotta love EU taxes, don't you. And the H100 doesn't cost $100 here, but $150. First RMA would cost me $50 to send it to The Netherlands, and that would leave me with a $200 H100


Agreed! some people are dishing out some serious coin because of this problem! Hey all, i'm new on here and frankly troubled by what i have read. I just installed my new h100 tonight and long behold i have the same problem and the RMA just seems like a waste of time and money, since the chances of it actually solving our problem is little to none. Lets hope they pull there fingers out and help their customers.
Hope they get a fix soon..... Good luck everyone! Next time i'm going custom, just thought this would be worth a shot and save some cash but it seems i may have just spent more than necessary


----------



## MeanBruce

Just a sidebar: I read of a few H100/H80 fluid leaks that ended in shorted mobos and video cards, ruined systems, I think the coolant inside is similar to anti-freeze used in your car, and it is electrically conductive, I'm sure wlw_wl knows this answer.

Anyway, with custom loops, you purchase the coolant/fluid extra, good news is many manufacturers make non-conductive coolants, so even if you have a disastrous leak, nothing in your pc will be harmed, again would love to hear wlw's comments on this, but this is sounding more and more like the way I want to go next time.


----------



## wlw wl

I'm hardly a water cooling guru. I'm only just building my first, poor man's loop.

But I've seen one H100 that exploded and killed a guy's PC, including a brand new GTX 680. And it didn't just leak, it literally exploded, photos of the unit ripped open were included (I saved them ofc). And there have been some cases of leaks over at the official forum, but nothing spectacular or dangerous.

I think it's distilled water + glycol + some corrosion inhibitor. I don't know why, but they use copper blocks with aluminum radiators. Every water cooling man or woman here, be it a pro or wannabe, knows that mixing bare copper with aluminum in one loop is a bad idea because the aluminum will corrode sooner or later. So the corrosion inhibitor is a must. That's why you use nickel-plated copper, brass radiators or copper all around etc.

I drained my H50 into a glass, and it was 100ml of something that certainly wasn't just water. Is it conductive? It shouldn't be, and that's one of the reasons why distilled water is used. But I also read that over time, impurities will accumulate in the water which can lead to it being conductive.

So what you would use in a custom loop is a distilled water as a base and some additives, about 10% volume of those. There are specialized liquid additives that include corrosion inhibitor, anti-algae agent etc. or you can choose the mix yourself. Or you can just buy a pre-made solution, like EK Ekoolant, Feser One, while an example of an additive would be Swiftech HydrX .

I'm sure you will fine more extensive and accurate info here on the forums


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Good news, everyone.

Corsair has now tracked down and fixed a rare and hard to reproduce issue on some of our Hydro series coolers, specifically the H60, H80, and H100 when used in combination with certain power supplies in certain circumstances. The failure will present itself as a buzz or hum, similar to a hard drive seek noise, and may disappear and reappear at random times. This issue affects a very small number of units, and typically is more prevalent on power supplies that provide higher than +12.2V on the +12V rail, which explains why some users have experienced multiple units with the same issue - they're plugging them into the same power supply.

Regardless, this has since been corrected and we are now shipping units that do not experience the issue. If you've got a noisy H100, H80, or H60 unit, and the noise is coming from the pump (not the fans), we'd like to offer you a selective RMA. Please email us at [email protected] with the subject line "Hydro Series Buzz" and include your name, phone number, shipping address, and email address. We will contact you to start a replacement with a known good unit.

Thank you, and we appreciate your patience as we corrected this issue.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> Good news, everyone.
> 
> Corsair has now tracked down and fixed a rare and hard to reproduce issue on some of our Hydro series coolers, specifically the H60, H80, and H100 when used in combination with certain power supplies in certain circumstances. The failure will present itself as a buzz or hum, similar to a hard drive seek noise, and may disappear and reappear at random times. This issue affects a very small number of units, and typically is more prevalent on power supplies that provide higher than +12.2V on the +12V rail, which explains why some users have experienced multiple units with the same issue - they're plugging them into the same power supply.
> 
> Regardless, this has since been corrected and we are now shipping units that do not experience the issue. If you've got a noisy H100, H80, or H60 unit, and the noise is coming from the pump (not the fans), we'd like to offer you a selective RMA. Please email us at [email protected] with the subject line "Hydro Series Buzz" and include your name, phone number, shipping address, and email address. We will contact you to start a replacement with a known good unit.
> 
> Thank you, and we appreciate your patience as we corrected this issue.


Thanks for the update, would it be possible to get a list of known PSU/H-series combinations that produce the effect?


----------



## wlw wl

Can you explain "fixed"? Fixed as "incorporated improvements into the product itself" or fixed as "the units that have loose bearing/shaft will not pass the QC from now on" or...?

You know as well as I do that it's not only PSU-dependant, which I can confirm myself, as my H100 was grinding on a Corsair HX 850, producing a near perfect 12,00V. It is related, but the fault is not on the PSU's side, but within the unit itself, which was confirmed by one of your engineers - Vref for the RPM setting voltage divisor is taken directly from the +12V line, rather than from a regulated voltage source.

So I'll repeat my question from the beginning of this post - have the actual and know flaws been corrected?

axipher - it's not just a voltage issue, so it's nearly impossible to do so. Add to that a fact that one given PSU will behave differently on 115V and 230V. One possible conclusion is this: if your PSU has a +12V rail higher than 12,00V, you're more likely to have this issue with any of the new Hydro series coolers.
The problem is that the Hydro series coolers are designed not for the ATX +12V voltage, but rather for +12,00V and even that doesn't always work well.


----------



## di inferi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> Good news, everyone.
> Corsair has now tracked down and fixed a rare and hard to reproduce issue on some of our Hydro series coolers, specifically the H60, H80, and H100 when used in combination with certain power supplies in certain circumstances. The failure will present itself as a buzz or hum, similar to a hard drive seek noise, and may disappear and reappear at random times. This issue affects a very small number of units, and typically is more prevalent on power supplies that provide higher than +12.2V on the +12V rail, which explains why some users have experienced multiple units with the same issue - they're plugging them into the same power supply.
> Regardless, this has since been corrected and we are now shipping units that do not experience the issue. If you've got a noisy H100, H80, or H60 unit, and the noise is coming from the pump (not the fans), we'd like to offer you a selective RMA. Please email us at [email protected] with the subject line "Hydro Series Buzz" and include your name, phone number, shipping address, and email address. We will contact you to start a replacement with a known good unit.
> Thank you, and we appreciate your patience as we corrected this issue.


Oh, so.... My *Corsair* HX750 that provides 12.288 V doesn't play well with my *Corsair* H80?

Interesting....

Regardless, I will be happy to get a new unit.


----------



## Maxxron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> Good news, everyone.
> Corsair has now tracked down and fixed a rare and hard to reproduce issue on some of our Hydro series coolers, specifically the H60, H80, and H100 when used in combination with certain power supplies in certain circumstances. The failure will present itself as a buzz or hum, similar to a hard drive seek noise, and may disappear and reappear at random times. This issue affects a very small number of units, and typically is more prevalent on power supplies that provide higher than +12.2V on the +12V rail, which explains why some users have experienced multiple units with the same issue - they're plugging them into the same power supply.
> Regardless, this has since been corrected and we are now shipping units that do not experience the issue. If you've got a noisy H100, H80, or H60 unit, and the noise is coming from the pump (not the fans), we'd like to offer you a selective RMA. Please email us at [email protected] with the subject line "Hydro Series Buzz" and include your name, phone number, shipping address, and email address. We will contact you to start a replacement with a known good unit.
> Thank you, and we appreciate your patience as we corrected this issue.


Nice to see you post and thanks for the update, but would like to see your answers to wlw wl's questions. Not trying to be rude, but I've seen your posts before (long time 800D thread and OCN lurker) and this seems more like a general PR response than the type of discussion response that we're used to/look forward to here.

Again, sorry if that comes off rude, not intended at all, would just like to be positive that this issue is 100% understood and taken care of so that when I do RMA my H80, I can be safe in knowing this particular issue has been resolved. Hope you understand and thanks again.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Thanks for the update, would it be possible to get a list of known PSU/H-series combinations that produce the effect?


There's no known list, as PSUs are well-within spec from +11.4V to +12.6V (+/- 5% on the +12V rail).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Can you explain "fixed"? Fixed as "incorporated improvements into the product itself" or fixed as "the units that have loose bearing/shaft will not pass the QC from now on" or...?


There was a change to the tooling of the impeller and impeller housing, in conjunction with a new QC screen using a noisemeter that measures from a couple inches away. Anything that is over the limit gets sent back for rework. Initially we implemented the screen to determine failure rates, when failure rates were outside our acceptable limit (typically anything over 1% for a cooler is higher than we like) we went back and retooled the impeller and housing, which is what took the extra time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> You know as well as I do that it's not only PSU-dependant, which I can confirm myself, as my H100 was grinding on a Corsair HX 850, producing a near perfect 12,00V. It is related, but the fault is not on the PSU's side, but within the unit itself, which was confirmed by one of your engineers - Vref for the RPM setting voltage divisor is taken directly from the +12V line, rather than from a regulated voltage source.
> So I'll repeat my question from the beginning of this post - have the actual and know flaws been corrected?


The problem was much more likely to occur as RPM ramped up. If the voltage was higher, the RPM was higher, which caused the issue to appear more frequently, as units that were borderline would then present themselves as problematic.

Addressing the voltage alone would have been a band-aid, and not fixed the actual problem. The problem was twofold, the impeller and impeller housing tools were producing out-of-spec parts, which required a slight redesign (the impeller was recessed more deeply) and the acceptable voltage input range had to be increased so that noise levels at different voltage input levels were acceptable. We were very thorough - we take QC seriously and with one of our flagship parts we did not want to risk some kind of nightmarish stupidity.

Anybody can make a mistake - we know this. We're not perfect. The combination of tools wearing down over time, components getting nearer to their max specs, a hard-to-track down relation to certain PSU outputs, and the fact that we couldn't replicate it internally for months made this a difficult one.

I appreciate all the help I've had from this forum and others, and you guys have literally helped us make our products better. Thank you.


----------



## molleh

Thanks for the update Greg! I just fired off an email to RMAservice.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *di inferi*
> 
> Oh, so.... My *Corsair* HX750 that provides 12.288 V doesn't play well with my *Corsair* H80?
> Interesting....
> Regardless, I will be happy to get a new unit.


It's not about brand or even quality of PSU, it's just that the hydro series coolers that were marginal at +12V are more likely to present the problem at higher voltages.

Some of the worst units would even present the problem at like 11.8V or 11.9V, but out of the thousands we tested, only a handful showed a problem below +12V.

Here's an example chart (not actual data, I don't have that in front of me and can't share it, but this is a very similar curve...)










As you got over +12.2V, the failure rate became unacceptable to us.


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Thanks for that George! rep+

I've been looking to get an H100, but have been reluctant to do so because of this issue.


----------



## Maxxron

@CorsairGeorge - Now that's what I call a response, thank you very much.









I'll be hitting up the RMA service like you stated in your previous post and appreciate you guys working hard at rectifying the situation. This is exactly the reason why I'll spend the little extra for the quality and support you guys give. So until you guys drop the ball on that, expect my business for a long time.


----------



## wlw wl

Thank you George for your answers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> If the voltage was higher, the RPM was higher, which caused the issue to appear more frequently, as units that were borderline would then present themselves as problematic.


This could be easily avoided as we have discussed in the e-mails. The RPM to voltage dependency can be avoided to keep a constant 2000 RPM across the whole ATX +12V range if the reference voltage for the resistor divisor that sets the RPM is modified. After all the pump's BLDC motor works in a closed feedback loop, not in an open loop, so this can and should be done.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fir3Chi3f*
> 
> Thanks for that George! rep+
> I've been looking to get an H100, but have been reluctant to do so because of this issue.


It's important to note above that even the highest failure rates we had were still in the very small single digits. Meaning that out of a hundred customers, you could count the failures on one hand fairly easily. Still higher than we'd like, but most people never saw the issue.


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> It's important to note above that even the highest failure rates we had were still in the very small single digits. Meaning that out of a hundred customers, you could count the failures on one hand fairly easily. Still higher than we'd like, but most people never saw the issue.


I understand that, but when I buy anything from corsair I expect unquestionable quality. When I hear that a few have had trouble and have even developed a "fix" I begin to reconsider my expectation. The rep was for sharing the information that something is actually being done about it.

Off topic- Have you tried setting your avatar with the OCN blue?









Whipped this bad boy together real quick.


Edit for grammar


----------



## wlw wl

And this has to be highlighted, because I'm happy to see it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> There was a change to the tooling of the impeller and impeller housing, in conjunction with a new QC screen using a noisemeter that measures from a couple inches away. Anything that is over the limit gets sent back for rework. Initially we implemented the screen to determine failure rates, when failure rates were outside our acceptable limit (typically anything over 1% for a cooler is higher than we like) we went back and retooled the impeller and housing, which is what took the extra time.


----------



## di inferi

Anyone know who to contact for an *advanced* RMA?

I sent an email to the address provided by George requesting an advanced RMA and they gave me the standard copy/paste reply stating they would send out a replacement unit 1-2 days _after_ they receive mine.

I cannot have any downtime on my PC since it is used for work/school. If I go out buying a replacement cooler for a week it won't be Corsair.


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *di inferi*
> 
> If I go out buying a replacement cooler for a week it won't be Corsair.


Oh don't be so harsh









Try calling CC (Skype for free), it's always the best way to have things cleared up.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> Regardless, this has since been corrected and we are now shipping units that do not experience the issue. If you've got a noisy H100, H80, or H60 unit, and the noise is coming from the pump (not the fans), we'd like to offer you a selective RMA. Please email us at [email protected] with the subject line "Hydro Series Buzz" and include your name, phone number, shipping address, and email address. We will contact you to start a replacement with a known good unit.
> Thank you, and we appreciate your patience as we corrected this issue.


Thank you George. This is what many of us were looking for, and I personally greatly appreciate the response and additional feedback on what was actually done to correct the problem. The simple phrase "selective RMA" lets us know that there is a process in place to best ensure that replacement units shouldn't again have the issue.

Thanks again.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *di inferi*
> 
> Anyone know who to contact for an *advanced* RMA?
> I sent an email to the address provided by George requesting an advanced RMA and they gave me the standard copy/paste reply stating they would send out a replacement unit 1-2 days _after_ they receive mine.
> I cannot have any downtime on my PC since it is used for work/school. If I go out buying a replacement cooler for a week it won't be Corsair.


Ah I didn't see this before I sent my email. I did state in my email that I need to make arrangements for an advanced exchange though. If I get the same standard email reply I'm just going to call them and get it done over the phone.


----------



## PCModderMike

This is very helpful, good job OP. I didn't realize how wide spread the problem was. My H100 was a recent purchase, it's unfortunate that Corsair is still sending out faulty units. I was almost positive when I first started mine up, that I was going to have to RMA it right away....but then a couple days later the pump noise started to die down. It's not very loud any more, but it's definitely still there. It's just a big pain to have to go through the whole RMA process, and they want us to pay the shipping? On top of that, no advance RMA service? Ugh...I rarely hear it now, guess I'll just keep dealing with it.


----------



## Aaranu

Thanks a lot George!


----------



## di inferi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Oh don't be so harsh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try calling CC (Skype for free), it's always the best way to have things cleared up.


If the cooler wasn't the only issue I had with my latest build I would't be. But, 1/2 of my latest purchases with a Corsair name on it have had something wrong with it. Might be bad luck, I don't know. But, I vote with my wallet.


----------



## WivZ

Do we need to pay the shipping cost for the RMA??

Should I RMA or fix it with diode? wlw wl, can i get one adapter from you??


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *di inferi*
> 
> Anyone know who to contact for an *advanced* RMA?
> I sent an email to the address provided by George requesting an advanced RMA and they gave me the standard copy/paste reply stating they would send out a replacement unit 1-2 days _after_ they receive mine.
> I cannot have any downtime on my PC since it is used for work/school. If I go out buying a replacement cooler for a week it won't be Corsair.


Reply to the email directly, each comment is being looked at specifically, I get a summary at the end of each day. The CSG person helping you will work with you if needed.


----------



## Ickz

Amazing, I was wracking my brain trying to figure out what this mysterious "hdd read-like" sound was in my case and googling brought me to videos displaying the same exact noise and then to here. RMA email has been sent - specifically requested for an advance rma, so hopefully all goes well. George, any idea if the new units have a new backplate/screws that don't wobble on thinner motherboards (specially on the H80, but I read that all versions experienced the issue)? I had to make some ghetto plastic washers so mine didn't wobble during installation.


----------



## Dutambalu

If my pump is making a slightly pump noise, but not audible unless you really put your ear near it, will that still be considered as a faulty product and ill be able to get an rma? Id like a perfect product in my rig


----------



## wlw wl

Dutambalu - the issue discussed here, the "rattling" or "grinding" is linked to a specific flaw in the unit, and it sounds like an old HDD, clicking etc. Maybe you just have some air in yours? Hard to say what you mean by "pump noise"


----------



## Dutambalu

Yeah. Its a feint HDD / rattle noise. No air bubbles coming from the pump itself







I can hear it if i put it on the first setting


----------



## wlw wl

If so, since it can get worse over time, you should see about having it replaced.


----------



## salle

Hi wlw wl/ !

Bought myself a new gamingrig a couple of days ago and guess what....(H100)pump noise issue.
I live in Sweden and as far as i can understand we dont have this particular diode here.
So my question is can you help me out and how do we get in contact if you can help me?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## wlw wl

Hi there,

let it run for a bit more as there is a slight chance it will fix itself (air in the system etc.).
Then, if you do not wish to go through the official channels as instructed by CorsairGeorge, send me a PM and I'll help you.


----------



## salle

I have to ask you, ( im not very technical when it comes to these things), is there some kind of fan in the pump since you guys are talking about that its not the rpm of the fans on the H100, dont really understand, but if i dont ask I never will...

I have to say like many of the other people on the forum that I really do appreciate and respect the time and effort you do here on the forum helping us out, and thanks again!


----------



## B4R51

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> Good news, everyone.
> Corsair has now tracked down and fixed a rare and hard to reproduce issue on some of our Hydro series coolers, specifically the H60, H80, and H100 when used in combination with certain power supplies in certain circumstances. The failure will present itself as a buzz or hum, similar to a hard drive seek noise, and may disappear and reappear at random times. This issue affects a very small number of units, and typically is more prevalent on power supplies that provide higher than +12.2V on the +12V rail, which explains why some users have experienced multiple units with the same issue - they're plugging them into the same power supply.
> Regardless, this has since been corrected and we are now shipping units that do not experience the issue. If you've got a noisy H100, H80, or H60 unit, and the noise is coming from the pump (not the fans), we'd like to offer you a selective RMA. Please email us at [email protected] with the subject line "Hydro Series Buzz" and include your name, phone number, shipping address, and email address. We will contact you to start a replacement with a known good unit.
> Thank you, and we appreciate your patience as we corrected this issue.


i am having the exact issue as in these threads, i have had mine for less than one day and as soon as my +12v rail reaches 12.16v the pump starts to make a loud grind/buzz and does not stop. However i only have a H80 cooler as my stock cooler broke, i was wondering if corsair will do a swap on the same day style RMA(advanced rma?) that some companies do, so i am not without cooler as i have important university work to catch up on.


----------



## wlw wl

salle - I'm not sure a fully understand your question so the answer might not be that great.

The unit reports the pump's RPM by that single wire with 3-pin connector. The pump is essentially a fan, as it has a fan motor and a fan motor controller, only the rotor is different
If you connect some fans to the cooler's integrated fan controller, you can't read their RPM.


----------



## salle

I think I understand, so the rpm (2166rpm) in my case, is not the rpm of the two corsair fans, but the rpm of the pump fan?
I ordered two noctua f12 fans and their maximum rpm is 1500, thats the reason im asking, because you wrote that rpm under 1700 maybe isnt to recommend.

As I understand it we are talking about rpm from the pump, not the two fans, that is the problem of the unit.


----------



## wlw wl

Yes, that's the speed of the pump itself and that's what I was talking about, not the radiator fans.


----------



## salle

Ok thanks. I went Down to the pc store and they ordered me a New one. I didn't even have to return the Busted one intill the
New one arrives, props to them for that. I hope it will be ok. Thanks again for tve fast responses typing with ny mobile phone, sorry for the spelling


----------



## ekoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekoo*
> 
> I'm going to try an exchange at my local store where I got my latest H100, since they just got a "new batch" in... will update on how it goes.


OK, so I went through the whole process of returning the noisy one, cleaning the CPU, installing the new H100, and after about 2 minutes it started making noise just like the previous one. really frustrating, but what can you do... I guess it's time to consider custom water cooling, I can't be dead in the water while I wait for them to receive my faulty H100 in a standard RMA.


----------



## wlw wl

Maybe try advanced RMA then?

B4R51 - software voltage readings are worthless, use a multimeter.


----------



## ekoo

I thought the process, as mentioned by Ram Guy, was that you had to do a standard RMA first and have another failure before you could do the advanced RMA.

I just saw this from George, though, so I'll start down that path:
Quote:


> Regardless, this has since been corrected and we are now shipping units that do not experience the issue. If you've got a noisy H100, H80, or H60 unit, and the noise is coming from the pump (not the fans), we'd like to offer you a selective RMA. Please email us at [email protected] with the subject line "Hydro Series Buzz" and include your name, phone number, shipping address, and email address.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dutambalu*
> 
> If my pump is making a slightly pump noise, but not audible unless you really put your ear near it, will that still be considered as a faulty product and ill be able to get an rma? Id like a perfect product in my rig


Without actually seeing it in person, I can't be the judge of it. The pump has an impeller spinning around 2,000 RPM - it's not going to be absolutely silent, but if you can hear it through your case, then I'd RMA it personally.


----------



## B4R51

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Maybe try advanced RMA then?
> B4R51 - software voltage readings are worthless, use a multimeter.


I have and it is pretty much the same reading, was just using that to point out that the issue i am having seems to be the one listed on here, i have emailed for RMA to email provided by CorsairGeorge, just waiting for a reply.since posting this morning i have not been able to stop the grinding noise, previously it would come and go.

BTW...how long will it take corsair to reply to the emails?


----------



## salle

Funny thing is that me and a friend of mine bought a computer each last week with exactly the same components, and before this he already had an H100 that he sold when he sold his "old" pc.
His H100 was dead silent(the pump), as for his new pc, His H100 is dead silent, mine isn`t.
They ordered me a new one in the pc store, and I really hope that I wont have the same issue, if it does I`ll will contact Corsair and hope for the best...


----------



## B4R51

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salle*
> 
> Funny thing is that me and a friend of mine bought a computer each last week with exactly the same components, and before this he already had an H100 that he sold when he sold his "old" pc.
> His H100 was dead silent(the pump), as for his new pc, His H100 is dead silent, mine isn`t.
> They ordered me a new one in the pc store, and I really hope that I wont have the same issue, if it does I`ll will contact Corsair and hope for the best...


I considered returning my H80 to the store(dabs.com) as i have only had it for nearly two days, however if bought on its own the cooler comes with a slip saying not to return this product to the store and to contact corsair directly, so i assume this method will help make sure the problem does not reoccur on my replacement. plus dabs.com use Yodel the worst delivery company in the Uk, of which i always have problems with.


----------



## salle

Excuse me for changing topic, but since CorsairGeorge already is here i`d like to ask something!
As I wrote me and a friend of my bought ourselves new pc:s and the ssd:s we bought were Corsair Performance Pro 256GB.
After windows installation and BF3 we both only have 163GB:s of space left on the disks, which means that about 35-40GB:s are missing?
The people I`ve talked to couldn`t explain this, do you have an idea maybe?
I can live with it but it`s weird that both of our disks are short of GB:s.


----------



## B4R51

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salle*
> 
> Excuse me for changing topic, but since CorsairGeorge already is here i`d like to ask something!
> As I wrote me and a friend of my bought ourselves new pc:s and the ssd:s we bought were Corsair Performance Pro 256GB.
> After windows installation and BF3 we both only have 163GB:s of space left on the disks, which means that about 35-40GB:s are missing?
> The people I`ve talked to couldn`t explain this, do you have an idea maybe?
> I can live with it but it`s weird that both of our disks are short of GB:s.


with hard drives you never fully get the advertised hard drive space for usability my 1tb have 931GB to use and my 250 is 232GB of usable space, apparently the Corsair Performance Pro 256GB has 238.5Gb of usable space. Also does it have a recovery partition?, even if not listed as a drive you could type diskmgmt.msc into the start menu search bar and use the disk management to see if there is any unused/unformatted hard drive partitions. If this is the case you can format the unused space/delete the recovery partition, or expand your existing partition


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4R51*
> 
> I have and it is pretty much the same reading, was just using that to point out that the issue i am having seems to be the one listed on here, i have emailed for RMA to email provided by CorsairGeorge, just waiting for a reply.since posting this morning i have not been able to stop the grinding noise, previously it would come and go.
> BTW...how long will it take corsair to reply to the emails?


We were out yesterday (US Holiday) but we're back in the office today. You should get a response withing 24-48 hours of when you send the email. Most of the time, it'll be much, much faster than that.


----------



## salle

Thanks B4R51, i know what you are talking about but My Crucial C300 has 238 without anything on it, so if I had installed the OS and BF3 on 8which I did in the past I had about 200GB left( give or take), however I can`t imagine that 37 GB needs to be somewhere else, I will however check your tip out, as soon as the little ones are sleeping.
Thanks, but like I said I still find it to be to much of storage "missing"!


----------



## wlw wl

Google _ssd over-provisioning_.


----------



## salle

Thanks!

You did it again....hehe


----------



## JayWill411

It appears that Corsair may not yet actually have the replacement units in house until next week. The reply to my advanced exchange request said they were out of stock and someone would be contacting me next week to make the arrangements for and advanced replacement. Unless they've already done enough advanced replacements to deplete their current stock, which I doubt.

Just a heads up for anyone following this thread and planning to submit an RMA.


----------



## wlw wl

I heard the birds singing that Corsair have already run out of the revised replacements and the RMAs are in back order. Some say "even the highest failure rates we had were still in the very small single digits" so it looks to me that someone underestimated the popularity of this issue








Quote:


> Unfortunately, the new replacement is currently in back order. Please provide us until next week and someone will contact you to process the Advance Replacement.


Oops.


----------



## di inferi

Interesting....

Do I have a right to be "harsh" now?


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *di inferi*
> 
> Interesting....
> Do I have a right to be "harsh" now?


Of course! It's a free country. But I don't know what good it'd do, other than to blow off some steam which can be good sometimes. Corsair is trying to make things right though, and they'll probably continue to have both successes and failures on that front until this whole thing is behind us/them.


----------



## B4R51

Well that sucks, having to wait till next week, only had mine two days and the noise is annoying me, the grinding is audible from the next room. still not got a reply to my advanced RMA request, hope to get a reply soon.


----------



## Dutambalu

I just got the email, with a RMA number. But for advance RMAs im not quite sure on how to go on with it. This was the response attached. Do i just leave the email alone and wait for a response orrrr?








Quote:


> Thank you for contacting Corsair!
> 
> We apologize if you are having trouble with one of our products.
> 
> Please use RMA number XXXXXXX for your request, a follow up email will be sent to you with an attached UPS prepaid label for you to return the defective unit back to us.
> 
> For advance replacement, all replacements are currently in back order. Estimate dat of availability will be on July 10th. One of our Customer Service Representative will contact you to process your request once we have the unit available.
> 
> If you have any question just let us know.
> Thank you and have a great day!


----------



## CorsairGeorge

The units have been flown over from our factory in China, and are currently transitioning through customs. With the Holiday, this took a couple of days for the US. The European customers will have their units in their hub early next week, as they've already been flown over too, but it takes a couple of days to get into inventory and then shipped out.

Everything should start shipping out early next week.


----------



## wlw wl

Flown, like, in your private jet?









j/k, after those months of nothing I'm genuinely happy to see this being take care of properly.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> after those months of nothing I'm genuinely happy to see this being take care of properly.


Agreed, and well said.


----------



## B4R51

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dutambalu*
> 
> I just got the email, with a RMA number. But for advance RMAs im not quite sure on how to go on with it. This was the response attached. Do i just leave the email alone and wait for a response orrrr?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for contacting Corsair!
> 
> We apologize if you are having trouble with one of our products.
> 
> Please use RMA number XXXXXXX for your request, a follow up email will be sent to you with an attached UPS prepaid label for you to return the defective unit back to us.
> 
> For advance replacement, all replacements are currently in back order. Estimate dat of availability will be on July 10th. One of our Customer Service Representative will contact you to process your request once we have the unit available.
> 
> If you have any question just let us know.
> Thank you and have a great day!
Click to expand...

i got the same response, i guess we are able to wait till next week to send the cooler back once they are processing advance RMAs? so we do not have to wait without a cooler.


----------



## Aaranu

I got an email back from corsair saying that my case No. is XXXXXX, what do i do now?


----------



## theonedub

Wait for your UPS Shipping label to be emailed. I imagine they are being swamped with RMA requests right now. I got my RMA approval this afternoon and still haven't gotten the label, but I'll give them a little time.


----------



## Aaranu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> Wait for your UPS Shipping label to be emailed. I imagine they are being swamped with RMA requests right now. I got my RMA approval this afternoon and still haven't gotten the label, but I'll give them a little time.


Cheers


----------



## gregoire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> The units have been flown over from our factory in China, and are currently transitioning through customs. With the Holiday, this took a couple of days for the US. The European customers will have their units in their hub early next week, as they've already been flown over too, but it takes a couple of days to get into inventory and then shipped out.
> Everything should start shipping out early next week.


Well that's great news !!!

I must admit that my H100 (which is noisy even at 1500rpm) is getting my a little nervous and it's hard to wait for an advanced RMA (I didn't receive any answer from the email we had to write to).

Left's hope Europa get it real soon


----------



## salle

Got my second H100 today, same stupid sound, it`s killing me softly. Bought my new pc last week, it`s a Cosmos 2 case, had to carrie it myself, take a cab to the store and then a cab back home, only to find the same stupid noise......


----------



## salle

wlw wl//

Can you help me out with the voltage dropper???
If thats a solution I`ll take it, because I`m really tired of this now.
RMA, shipping, carrie the monster again, pay for a cab again and so on.


----------



## B4R51

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salle*
> 
> Got my second H100 today, same stupid sound, it`s killing me softly. Bought my new pc last week, it`s a Cosmos 2 case, had to carrie it myself, take a cab to the store and then a cab back home, only to find the same stupid noise......


well CorsairGeorge did say it was a compatibility issue with PSU's that output higher than 12v on the +12v rail caused this issue, rather than a true issue with the coolers and since you remained with the same PSU and the problem has only been resolved this week on the cooler side of it, it was a gamble taking it back to the store as they will be running off old manufactured stock.


----------



## B4R51

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salle*
> 
> wlw wl//
> Can you help me out with the voltage dropper???
> If thats a solution I`ll take it, because I`m really tired of this now.
> RMA, shipping, carrie the monster again, pay for a cab again and so on.


BTW corsair are offering pre-paid shipping for the RMA's, plus UPS pick up from your door.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> Wait for your UPS Shipping label to be emailed. I imagine they are being swamped with RMA requests right now. I got my RMA approval this afternoon and still haven't gotten the label, but I'll give them a little time.


A sidenote here - advance replacement will be accommodated if you request it, but the default is the standard RMA procedure. So if you haven't asked specifically for advanced replacement, you'll be waiting quite a while for that UPS label.

As for being "swamped", there's a fair number but it's still very low. If you read these forums you'd think thousands of people would be having this issue, and that's just not the case. Still important to fix, of course.


----------



## salle

My PSU is corsair AX 850, My friend who bought the same pc parts has AX1200, our 12 rail voltages are exactly the same, 12.288v and his pc is quiet.
However this is not OK, power supply or whatever, it simply isn`t OK.
I have 3 small children, in my sparetime I like to enjoy my computer, which I can`t.


----------



## salle

CorsairGeorge, as a sidenote I have to say that I dont mean to be rude to anyone but it`s very frustrating.


----------



## B4R51

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> A sidenote here - advance replacement will be accommodated if you request it, but the default is the standard RMA procedure. So if you haven't asked specifically for advanced replacement, you'll be waiting quite a while for that UPS label.
> As for being "swamped", there's a fair number but it's still very low. If you read these forums you'd think thousands of people would be having this issue, and that's just not the case. Still important to fix, of course.


CorsairGeorge how can we confirm if our RMA's are being treated as standard or advanced? i asked for advanced, but it wasn't made clear in the email from Corsair if it is being processed in this way.


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4R51*
> 
> well CorsairGeorge did say it was a compatibility issue with PSU's that output higher than 12v on the +12v rail caused this issue, rather than a true issue with the coolers and since you remained with the same PSU and the problem has only been resolved this week on the cooler side of it, it was a gamble taking it back to the store as they will be running off old manufactured stock.


You got that one wrong. The problem isn't caused by the voltage. The problem is bearing to shaft tolerance issue, which makes one loose inside the other, which in turn causes rattling at some speeds. Voltage might contribute as higher voltage means higher RPM (this is a flaw in itself, we talked about fixing it but I don't think it was touched), but it's only a contributing factor in some cases - it is not the cause.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salle*
> 
> My PSU is corsair AX 850, My friend who bought the same pc parts has AX1200, our 12 rail voltages are exactly the same, 12.288v and his pc is quiet.
> However this is not OK, power supply or whatever, it simply isn`t OK.
> I have 3 small children, in my sparetime I like to enjoy my computer, which I can`t.


Of course it's not okay and it should be corrected, but maybe in H120 or w/e...
Did you have the unit replaced but the seller or by the Corsair directly? Like I said before, Corsair barely got the new units themselves, all the units you see in shops are the "old ones" which should be avoided IMO. So if it was replaced by the shop, it's a bad one for a bad one. It will take some time until you find the corrected units in stock and they should be marked as such, say Rev 1.1 or whatever, so you know what you're buying. I suspect we'll see many "super sales" now with the old ones so one should be able to tell which one it is. Or just say "from the batch number 12xxyyyy all the units are good".
If you want an adapter and not RMA, you can send me a PM.

ed. typos


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> A sidenote here - advance replacement will be accommodated if you request it, but the default is the standard RMA procedure. So if you haven't asked specifically for advanced replacement, you'll be waiting quite a while for that UPS label.
> As for being "swamped", there's a fair number but it's still very low. If you read these forums you'd think thousands of people would be having this issue, and that's just not the case. Still important to fix, of course.


If the number is so small (or otherwise manageable) why would you say I would be waiting a while just to get a Standard RMA label? If the high number of RMAs isn't the reason for a delay in processing the RMA, what is?


----------



## B4R51

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> You got that one wrong. The problem isn't caused by the voltage. The problem is bearing to shaft tolerance issue, which makes one loose inside the other, which in turn causes rattling at some speeds. Voltage might contribute as higher voltage means higher RPM (this is a flaw in itself, we talked about fixing it but I don't think it was touched), but it's only a contributing factor in some cases - it is not the cause.
> Of course it's not okay and it should be corrected, but maybe in H120 or w/e...
> Did you have the unit replaced but the seller or by the Corsair directly? Like I said before, Corsair barely got the new units themselves, all the units you see in shops are the "old ones" which should be avoided IMO. So if it was replaced by the shop, it's a bad one for a bad one. It will take some time until you find the corrected units in stock and they should be marked as such, say Rev 1.1 or whatever, so you know what you're buying. I suspect we'll see many "super sales" now with the old ones so one should be able to tell which one it is. Or just say "from the batch number 12xxyyyy all the units are good".
> If you want an adapter and not RMA, you can send me a PM.
> ed. typos


I was just going by CorsairGeorge post which seemed to suggest that voltage was the issue, as people with lower +12v experienced less failure rates. obviously as only just joined this thread recently i have not read every post in regards to this issue.
Quote:


> The failure will present itself as a buzz or hum, similar to a hard drive seek noise, and may disappear and reappear at random times. This issue affects a very small number of units, and typically is more prevalent on power supplies that provide higher than +12.2V on the +12V rail, which explains why some users have experienced multiple units with the same issue - they're plugging them into the same power supply.


----------



## wlw wl

Still, the voltage isn't a cause by itself, but the likelihood of the real issue (bearing/shaft) to present itself increases with higher voltage due to a design fault that I talked about earlier.


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4R51*
> 
> I was just going by CorsairGeorge post which seemed to suggest that voltage was the issue, as people with lower +12v experienced less failure rates. obviously as only just joined this thread recently i have not read every post in regards to this issue.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The failure will present itself as a buzz or hum, similar to a hard drive seek noise, and may disappear and reappear at random times. This issue affects a very small number of units, and typically is more prevalent on power supplies that provide higher than +12.2V on the +12V rail, which explains why some users have experienced multiple units with the same issue - they're plugging them into the same power supply.
Click to expand...

It can't be just a voltage issue because if you look over this thread u will see folks, including myself, that used a controller and had to take it well below 12v for the noise to go away. I'm probably closer to 10v before it stops. Actually gets louder before it suddenly stops as I lower voltage.


----------



## B4R51

that is all fine as long as the new units are the real fix to this issue as the noise is rather annoying, wouldnt mind as much if it blended in with the fan noise but it does not. it not being a voltage issue would explain that when i first installed mine the noise came and went, but now it is constant, i guess as the bearing/shaft are loosened.


----------



## wlw wl

It is related to voltage, but it's not caused by voltage - and we can put it to rest.

Updated the OP.


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> It is related to voltage, but it's not caused by voltage - and we can put it to rest.
> Updated the OP.


It's not related to voltage, its effected by voltage. The issue is related to shoddy QC. Now we can put it to rest.


----------



## B4R51

just received phone call from corsair @ 9:35pm in regards to my advanced rma and said that my new one should be here within 2 working days and that ups should call me soon to arrange pick up of my old part and should receive email within the next ten mins after phone call which i have not yet received.


----------



## di inferi

Ya I got a phone call as well. I was taking a nap though lol. Hopefully they will call back.


----------



## B4R51

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *di inferi*
> 
> Ya I got a phone call as well. I was taking a nap though lol. Hopefully they will call back.


sure they will they called me twice before i answered


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Some replacement units are already shipping out today.


----------



## B4R51

guess thats the EU replacements?


----------



## wlw wl

CorsairGeorge - any chance the other fixes get implemented as well? Such as the voltage dependency? Or rather _have they_, because I doubt there will be any more changes. Or is it rather for H100.2 if ever?


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> CorsairGeorge - any chance the other fixes get implemented as well? Such as the voltage dependency? Or rather _have they_, because I doubt there will be any more changes. Or is it rather for H100.2 if ever?


The existing design is remaining unchanged. I can't comment on any unannounced products.


----------



## ice-dragoon25

I also requested an advance RMA trought the email adress for that, and i'm wondering, if you're about to call everybody that ask for this advanced RMA, i hope Corsair have taken proper care to think before calling because if they call at my home in english, and it will be surely my mom that will pick up the phone, she will surely hang up because she dont speak english (french, i live in Quebec mind you). As for me, i have no problem dealing in english


----------



## wlw wl

*sigh* on the first part, *fair enough* on the second.


----------



## di inferi

Ok... So, I never got a call back from Joann (Corsair rep) so I gave the 888 number a call and asked to process an advanced RMA.

They told me "The charge for this will be $116.xx...." Uh-huh..... I hung up.

Those of you requesting advanced RMA's are they trying to hold your money as well?


----------



## wlw wl

Yes, they put a hold for the new unit they are sending you, in case you "forget" to send the old one back. The hold will be taken off once the RMA is processed and you have the new unit and they have the old one.


----------



## di inferi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Yes, they put a hold for the new unit they are sending you, in case you "forget" to send the old one back. The hold will be taken off once the RMA is processed and you have the new unit and they have the old one.


Alright, thanks.

I will have to put this replacement on hold then. We just moved so it goes without saying we have to watch our budget for a little while.


----------



## molleh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *di inferi*
> 
> Ok... So, I never got a call back from Joann (Corsair rep) so I gave the 888 number a call and asked to process an advanced RMA.
> They told me "The charge for this will be $116.xx...." Uh-huh..... I hung up.
> Those of you requesting advanced RMA's are they trying to hold your money as well?


This is standard procedure 99% of the time for any advance RMA (from any company.)


----------



## Dmac73

Is the grinding pump noise an actual problem with quicker repercussions then one with no noise, or is it a cosmetic issue only? Because i can tolerate the noise.


----------



## B4R51

I did not receive a confirmation email that the person on the phone from corsair said i would about my advanced rma and the hold on my card. also not received anything from UPS


----------



## ehow

What's the ETA for a response regarding advance rma request?


----------



## mythicalj

i have a , h60 , and it makes hdd like grinding noise ... im sure this is not an air bubble
did some reading and got some help from, wlw wl

some way i cant control my pump speed in the bios ore by using asus fan expert plus
( i have an asus p9x79 , 1000w coolermaster silent pro gold )

wlw wl said , The H60 reports twice the RPM it should, so the 4300 you're seeing is in fact 2150. One diode will drop it to 1950 - 2000, if that's not enough, try two diodes in series.

today i went to our local hardware store and got some diodes.



they said in the store the diode on top is a bit better
the 2th diode i believe is the one wlw used
the original adapter u see on the bottom i got with a , Zalman Casefan ZM-F2 92mm ( but that was a long time a go )

im not sure if the diodes on the pic are facing the correct way..
if anyone can let me know ????

i hope it will fix the noise:thumb: i let u guys know if it works


----------



## mythicalj

ok guys i just made this ... not very good at it but it sticks











so i plug t it in like so











this was befor , with rattle noise







!!( fan expert plus read out , i disabled q-fan in bios )



this was after i pluged in the adapter







all noise was gone ..







CREDITS TO wlw



PS: if u bypass the CPU fan controllers " i wasn't able to go past the bios "


----------



## wlw wl

You would need to connect the third wire or disable CPU fan error in the BIOS.

And by all means, isolate that diode, put some heatshrink or electrical tape over it or it will short to something and you'll release the magic blue smoke.


----------



## mythicalj

ah , i will do it right now ...

just did some battlefield 3 at high settings
this is as far as temps go , for h60 if u might wonder



ty for the help ... glad i didn't rma the thing.


----------



## mythicalj

ah this graph shows a bit better


----------



## wlw wl

That's a good temp for H60, what CPU is this?


----------



## mythicalj

its a 2011 socket


----------



## wlw wl

As a side note, if that's an SSD, it's not working properly.


----------



## mythicalj

haha








nope no ssd yet have ,WD sata-600 disk for windows

i havnt found a good ssd yet

but i might consider one of those pci ssd things ...

if i need somthing 2 go realy fast i can use a ram disk ...

but i dont care mutch a bout load times .. i do care about fps ..









dont like the price atm on the ssd's ... so ill wait


----------



## wlw wl

I caved and bought one and it was hands down the best upgrade in years. And the PCI-E disks such as Revo Drive have no TRIM (AFAIK) so that's not something I'd want. FPS is one thing, but this gives you overall responsiveness and speed. Not to mention awesome load times in BF3


----------



## mythicalj

yes it would sure load fast







with an ssd ... but i dont see how this would give me ingame preformace ..

loading a bf 3 map isnt that long of a wait









i would sure get one but it needs to be like 50€ for a 100gig

havnt tried bf3 on a ramdisk ,, cos i dont run this pc 24/7 , and i dont know how long it will take 2 kinda load the image in to the ram ...

but i heard that it can hit 4500 mb/s


----------



## B4R51

i would consider ssd when i can get a 400gb for less than £100 for my usage i prefer space over speed.


----------



## mythicalj

yes so do i , i do photography and photo editing as well

my camera raw files are like 25mb for 1 picture

not even to mention all my psd files


----------



## Ickz

I got the copy and pasted RMA response (even after stating in my original email that I needed an advance RMA). Replied to email asking what info they needed for an advance RMA and yet to receive a response. The sound is so bad







Really need a replacement.


----------



## TobyKing1982

Ok I received this email on Friday,

Dear Toby,

Thank you for contacting Corsair!

We apologize if you are having trouble with one of our products.

Please use RMA number ******* for your request .We have also requested a call tag to pick up the defective unit from your location. UPS will contact you within 2-3 business days to set up a pick up schedule.

If you have any question just let us know.

Thank you and have a great day!

What do I do now? Do I just wait for the call from UPS? Are they automatically shipping me out the replacement H100?

Thanks


----------



## B4R51

There definitely seems to be a communication issue here with corsair, I received the same email,I also asked for advanced RMA which the email made no mention to, however i eventually received a phone call to put a hold on my card for the advanced RMA and was told I will receive a confirmation email immediately about the hold and would be contacted by UPS, both of which have not happened.which makes me not trust the hold on my card because i do not hold any evidence of it, a receipt email would have been nice and what's more annoying is that you can't track the status of the RMA on Corsairs site as the RMA numbers given out for this issue are not recognised.


----------



## wlw wl

If I recall correctly, RG once said that the Tech Express and the RMA web pages are separate from what the Customer Care does, and TSX can't see the numbers assigned by CC< so that's probably that. I guess you can always call them for an update.


----------



## RP3X

Hi ive recently plugged in my H100, I brought it a few months ago but never used it untill I read about the noise issues....

I can hear the moter inside pushing the liquid back and forth it does make a bit of a spinning/grinding/pushing type noise which is louder then say my silent case fans I would not say its irritating or too noisy, and this is what I hear when my ear is one inch away from the pump square unit.

Is this normal ?

Or is this the grinding noise that everyones on about ?

Or is it a case the newer H100s make no noise when u put your ear close to the unit ?


----------



## leaderdog

Just wanted to say thanks to wlw wl for figuring this out. I had an H70 that made a grinding sound, corsair's RMA was awesome and sent an H80 out as they have no more H70's. The H80 made the humming sound that was louder than everything else in the case as well. Found this diode fix and so far it's done the trick.

The PS in the computer is a Seasonic X850 Gold 80 Goldplus.

Thanks again!


----------



## wlw wl

RP3X - only you can hear it so it is you who must compare it to, let's say, the videos that others made and be the judge.

leaderdog -


----------



## RP3X

thx does anyone know what page the video links are on ?

ive listened to it again and yeah turning the pump on its side sometimes can make it silent and less churning and grinding noise...
but since I have not heard another working unit hard to say...


----------



## wlw wl

If it's rattling, it's rattling. The noise level might differ but IMO it's that simple - it's either defective or it's not.


----------



## undeadmach1ne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RP3X*
> 
> ...but since I have not heard another working unit hard to say...


i agree with wlw wl. i just installed an h100 in my new system and i cant hear the pump at all. the two 120s (stock, set to max) on the rad are the only source of audible sound coming from my pc.


----------



## salle

RP3X//

Search "corsair H100 punp noise fix" on Youtube, the clip that is 1min 19 sec and listen, that´s how mine sounds.
Got a new one last week, same noise, but even a little bit louder than the one I got first, If there really is a low % of units that are defect I really must have some bad luck.

Can`t wait till I get it Quiet!


----------



## salle

wlw wl//

Is there only one way to attach the dropper or is there something extra I should think about when I attach it, I mean what side the diod should point at, changing some settings in bios or anything else, or is just the attachment itself enough?


----------



## WivZ

wlw wl,

I tried your method and made the dropper myself, put it and boom!! The sounds gone D I was very happy!!

BUTTT, after a few minutes, the sounds come back.. Any explanation for that? Are there any other problems?


----------



## RP3X

thx salle

yes I listened to this video here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJjhDgKZHdU

And yeah before he used that molex dropper fix that is the same 100% noise I get it is a grindling/rattling and chirping noise.

I think I will try that adaptor/molex fix, I think one could use a fan controller/reducer to use the same effect though.... its just putting less electricity into it and one could I believe run the fans to separate mobo headers....

Or do people think I should attempt to RMA my rattling H100 ? Seems if people are still getting noisy parts its clear Corsair aint fixed the issue 100% ?


----------



## wlw wl

salle - you just plug it in between the cooler and the PSU and that's all. There's only one way you can connect it so you can't do it wrong. Well I shouldn't say that you can't, because someone will try to prove that he can, but it only fits in one way.

WivZ - does tapping the unit while it's running with an adapter changes the noise or makes it go on and off? Does unplugging or plugging in the fans from/into the cooler change that? Seems like it needs just a tad less volts.

RP3X - yes, you can use a fan controller instead, but it's more clumsy and potentially more risky.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> A sidenote here - advance replacement will be accommodated if you request it, but the default is the standard RMA procedure. So if you haven't asked specifically for advanced replacement, you'll be waiting quite a while for that UPS label.
> As for being "swamped", there's a fair number but it's still very low. If you read these forums you'd think thousands of people would be having this issue, and that's just not the case. Still important to fix, of course.


Cosair George, a few questions and observations:

From my experience with advanced RMA, I was shipped a new unit but had to pay to ship the return back. Is that the normal procedure?
My replacement that I was sent in May is making a noise, although much lower than the first. When should I RMA it?

In regards to the people that have issues with the H100, H80, and others, approximately how many are there? It would be rather hard to pinpoint due to so many that have tried RMA's 2, 3, and some over that amount prior to the fix. Due to I would be on my third unit, do I count as two problems, or what is the process Corsair is using to track the problem units? You have to take into account all of the people that are on other forums and sites such as Amazon, NewEgg, Micro-center, that have reviews with those complaints as well. No disrespect, but it just seems the issue is being downplayed or attempted to be.

Exactly when are the new units being released? Any hard dates?


----------



## B4R51

what is the phone number for Corsair customer services, is it the same one as the HQ?


----------



## wlw wl

*Toll Free: +1 888-222-4346*


----------



## B4R51

cheers, does toll free count from the UK?


----------



## wlw wl

Use Skype and it will.


----------



## B4R51

Ha, cheers i always forget about skype







shall give them a ring this evening.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Use Skype and it will.


+1 On Skype, saves a lot of money on those LD calls.


----------



## WivZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> salle - you just plug it in between the cooler and the PSU and that's all. There's only one way you can connect it so you can't do it wrong. Well I shouldn't say that you can't, because someone will try to prove that he can, but it only fits in one way.
> WivZ - does tapping the unit while it's running with an adapter changes the noise or makes it go on and off? Does unplugging or plugging in the fans from/into the cooler change that? Seems like it needs just a tad less volts.
> RP3X - yes, you can use a fan controller instead, but it's more clumsy and potentially more risky.


I tried tapping the pump and the tube, and YES, the sound go on and off. The sound will go on if I shake my pc case even a little bit, and go off if I tap the unit or the tubes a few times.
WHY???? D: Not a big problem but still annoying... Can I make the sound go off forever?? I want it to be perfect :/


----------



## wlw wl

Yup, use another diode in series. This time it could be a Shottky diode like 1N581x or another 1N400x


----------



## ehow

It's been 4 days since I emailed for my advance rma and I haven't heard anything yet. How long does it take to get a response from corsair?


----------



## WivZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Yup, use another diode in series. This time it could be a Shottky diode like 1N581x or another 1N400x


Use another diode???? auuww I have to solder it again~~ T^T
I have 1N4001~1N4007 which one would you suggest??


----------



## wlw wl

Any of them, makes no difference in this application.


----------



## WivZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Any of them, makes no difference in this application.


Well you said I have to use another dioed and I dont know which diode should I choose. Already use 1N4001 and the sound still go on and off


----------



## wlw wl

It doesn't make a difference whether you choose 1N4001 or any other 1N400x, because they are all the same, as far as you're concerned. Two diodes in series will double the voltage drop and will reduce the pump's speed by about 400RPM so it should be at 1700 - 1800 RPM mark. I suggested that you use a 1N4001 + 1N5819 for example, as that will result in a smaller drop and a bit higher speed, but you don't have to do that if it confuses you.


----------



## WivZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> It doesn't make a difference whether you choose 1N4001 or any other 1N400x, because they are all the same, as far as you're concerned. Two diodes in series will double the voltage drop and will reduce the pump's speed by about 400RPM so it should be at 1700 - 1800 RPM mark. I suggested that you use a 1N4001 + 1N5819 for example, as that will result in a smaller drop and a bit higher speed, but you don't have to do that if it confuses you.


Well how about other people? Is it only me having this problem? Is it because my soldering?


----------



## wlw wl

No, it happens sometimes that one diode isn't enough, because some units will stop rattling at 1900 while others will do it at 1700 etc.


----------



## RP3X

Im thinking its pointless to RMA this since knowing my luck it will come back worser.... may try that molex mod and see if it works.

Perhaps its best to give Corsair time only issue is they warranty these items for 12 months so perhaps its best to RMA it !?


----------



## wlw wl

If you follow George's instructions, you will get the "new" unit which should not have the issue. And last time I checked the warranty on H100 was 5 years.


----------



## theonedub

Still no UPS return label and absolutely no reply to my request for an advanced RMA. This has pretty much been the response to any of my requests from Corsair's Customer Service Department.

Its really pathetic and is *hands down* the *absolute worst customer service* I have dealt with anywhere.

Someone has to let me in on how to get this 'grand' customer service I always hear so much about. I've consistently purchased Corsair products, but that looks to come to an end here. I surely won't be recommending them to my friends and coworkers anymore either.


----------



## Insomiyeah

Is it also possible to call the customer service and request an advance rma from there, since I do appreciate Corsair helps us, but whenver I respond to the mail, it takes them 2-3 days to respond back. I can imagine they must be busy, but is there a way to make this RMA go quick and clean.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insomiyeah*
> 
> Is it also possible to call the customer service and request an advance rma from there, since I do appreciate Corsair helps us, but whenver I respond to the mail, it takes them 2-3 days to respond back. I can imagine they must be busy, but is there a way to make this RMA go quick and clean.


I figured they would be busy and even suggested that was a reason for the delay, but then CorsairGeorge comes back with this reply
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> A sidenote here - advance replacement will be accommodated if you request it, but the default is the standard RMA procedure. So if you haven't asked specifically for advanced replacement, you'll be waiting quite a while for that UPS label.
> As for being "swamped", there's a fair number but it's still very low. If you read these forums you'd think thousands of people would be having this issue, and that's just not the case. Still important to fix, of course.


I don't even understand what he is trying to say? The number is low, so they aren't 'swamped' like I had suggested, but even with this small number of affected people I should expect to wait 'a while' for a standard RMA? Then when I try for an advanced RMA they act as if I never sent a request. I'm willing to bet I get a reply that in some way, shape, or form tries to deny 'accommodating' my advanced RMA.


----------



## Insomiyeah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I figured they would be busy and even suggested that was a reason for the delay, but then CorsairGeorge comes back with this reply
> I don't even understand what he is trying to say? The number is low, so they aren't 'swamped' like I had suggested, but even with this small number of affected people I should expect to wait 'a while' for a standard RMA? Then when I try for an advanced RMA they act as if I never sent a request. I'm willing to bet I get a reply that in some way, shape, or form tries to deny 'accommodating' my advanced RMA.


Does this mean that I have to put ADVANCE RMA instead of (normal) RMA as a sidenote in my mail (subject: Hydro Buzz Noise), am I missing something or did I just understand it wrong. If so, then that would be really weird.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> Still no UPS return label and absolutely no reply to my request for an advanced RMA. This has pretty much been the response to any of my requests from Corsair's Customer Service Department.
> Its really pathetic and is *hands down* the *absolute worst customer service* I have dealt with anywhere.
> Someone has to let me in on how to get this 'grand' customer service I always hear so much about. I've consistently purchased Corsair products, but that looks to come to an end here. I surely won't be recommending them to my friends and coworkers anymore either.


You must be having some bad luck or something? Here's how my experience has gone:

7/3 (evening) - Sent in my email with all requested information asking for an Advanced Replacement RMA
7/5 (1st business day after the holiday) - Received email reply with RMA # and note that the units were not yet in stock and that someone would call me when they came in
7/6 - Received a voicemail from Corsair customer service saying the units are now in stock and to make arrangements for my advanced RMA request
7/9 (morning) - I returned the call and left a message
7/9 (afternoon) - I got a call back from my message same day, gave my credit card number to hold on the advanced replacement until the defective unit is returned. New one is on its way. She asked if I had received an email with a pre-paid shipping label yet which I replied no. She stated that email should be coming soon (in time to return the defective unit).

Perfectly acceptable service to me. Did you not give them your phone number possibly? I don't know. My experience so far says this process is being handled at an "escalated" level.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayWill411*
> 
> You must be having some bad luck or something? Here's how my experience has gone:
> 7/3 (evening) - Sent in my email with all requested information asking for an Advanced Replacement RMA
> 7/5 (1st business day after the holiday) - Received email reply with RMA # and note that the units were not yet in stock and that someone would call me when they came in
> 7/6 - Received a voicemail from Corsair customer service saying the units are now in stock and to make arrangements for my advanced RMA request
> 7/9 (morning) - I returned the call and left a message
> 7/9 (afternoon) - I got a call back from my message same day, gave my credit card number to hold on the advanced replacement until the defective unit is returned. New one is on its way. She asked if I had received an email with a pre-paid shipping label yet which I replied no. She stated that email should be coming soon (in time to return the defective unit).
> Perfectly acceptable service to me. Did you not give them your phone number possibly? I don't know. My experience so far says this process is being handled at an "escalated" level.


I'd consider it bad luck if I got bad customer service from other companies, but this is not the case. My bad experiences are strictly related to Corsair alone. I followed the exact instructions given in this thread for the RMA request and included all information, including my phone number. I have not received any calls or follow ups at all aside from CorsairGeorge's rather cryptic reply that basically amounts to- 'Were not busy, but you're going to wait a while. One more thing, that 'special' RMA process? Its actually just a standard RMA.'

I really hate to rant, but I can't believe this is the service everyone gushes about. G.Skill approved a RAM RMA for me last week within 24hrs. When my ASUS board went in for RMA I had a prepaid label in my inbox before the online rep ended our live chat. The piston ring on my Air Zenith compressor that powers the air ride on my S-10 failed and rather than have me disassemble the compressor and leave the truck inoperable for a couple weeks, AZ mailed me a completely new piston under warranty. *Those are examples of excellent customer service.*

Before Corsair even announced their RMA plans I said I wouldn't hold my breath or set my expectations high, and now it looks as though I was right. I have every intention of posting my experience on the other forums I am a member of.


----------



## Synner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayWill411*
> 
> You must be having some bad luck or something? Here's how my experience has gone:
> 7/3 (evening) - Sent in my email with all requested information asking for an Advanced Replacement RMA
> 7/5 (1st business day after the holiday) - Received email reply with RMA # and note that the units were not yet in stock and that someone would call me when they came in
> 7/6 - Received a voicemail from Corsair customer service saying the units are now in stock and to make arrangements for my advanced RMA request
> 7/9 (morning) - I returned the call and left a message
> 7/9 (afternoon) - I got a call back from my message same day, gave my credit card number to hold on the advanced replacement until the defective unit is returned. New one is on its way. She asked if I had received an email with a pre-paid shipping label yet which I replied no. She stated that email should be coming soon (in time to return the defective unit).
> Perfectly acceptable service to me. Did you not give them your phone number possibly? I don't know. My experience so far says this process is being handled at an "escalated" level.


Somewhat similar scenario here. I put in a request on the 3rd directly through Gmail with the Hydro Series Buzz subject, with the message explaining my pump was faulty and what I'd tried to stop the noise. I also requested an advance RMA to be set up for me if possible. No response on the 4th (expected). Early on the afternoon of the 5th, they actually just called me which was unexpected. Their service rep took my credit card number and set up a replacement.

I shortly after received an email regarding the advanced RMA being set up and processed. 2 days went by and no further info, but it was the weekend so I figured it had not been shipped yet. I went ahead and sent a reply asking for a status update anyway (figured no harm in doing so). I did not get a reply until today (again, weekend...) and there was also an email with a UPS tracking number which shows my replacement should be here by the end of the week.

However, I did not get a return label in my mail. I'm pretty sure I was supposed to although admittedly I was half asleep when Corsair called me on the phone to set up my RMA. Is it supposed to show up in my email, or is it in the box with my replacement unit?

Edit: Another email with a label just arrived. Nevermind that last part.


----------



## RP3X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> If you follow George's instructions, you will get the "new" unit which should not have the issue. And last time I checked the warranty on H100 was 5 years.


thx will set it in motion and give it a go


----------



## ice-dragoon25

Just received an email from Corsair for the advance RMA, and it goes like this

Thank you for contacting Corsair!

We apologize if you are having trouble with one of our products.

Please use RMA number xxxxxxxx for your request, a follow up email will be sent to you with an attached UPS prepaid label for you to return the defective unit back to us.

One of our customer service representative will contact you to process the Advance RMA. This will require a hold on your credit card in order for us to send the replacement out to you first. Once you return the defective part back to us we will release the hold on your credit card. If the part isn't returned within a two week window from the day it was shipped we will notify you and will be charging your credit card.

If you have any question just let us know.
Thank you and have a great day!


----------



## B4R51

Well my replacement is out for delivery today via UPS, however still not received my pre paid return label for my old cooler.


----------



## B4R51

got my replacement, and it is DOA, no fan spin, no profile lights, no noise...nothing. OUTRAGED is an understatement especially since i paid for a rma. fitted my noisey unit back in as the new one is dead.














corsair QC = none existent.


----------



## wlw wl

Holy poo, talk about bad luck... Call them immediately mate. I mean once they're open.


----------



## B4R51

indeed, cant believe it they really need a better QC for these coolers.


----------



## LTC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4R51*
> 
> got my replacement, and it is DOA, no fan spin, no profile lights, no noise...nothing. OUTRAGED is an understatement especially since i paid for a rma. fitted my noisey unit back in as the new one is dead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> corsair QC = none existent.


Wow, this really makes me reconsider buying the H100 :S If Corsair doesn't fix this soon, they might as well stop making the coolers... With a high-end cooler like the H80 or H100, which isn't cheap at all, there shouldn't be any problems! And how long has this problem been around? I really believe that they could have fixed this already...


----------



## wlw wl

It's been around for the most part of the product's life.


----------



## di inferi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4R51*
> 
> got my replacement, and it is DOA, no fan spin, no profile lights, no noise...nothing. OUTRAGED is an understatement especially since i paid for a rma. fitted my noisey unit back in as the new one is dead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> corsair QC = none existent.


That sucks man.

Maybe the "fix" is to decrease the fan rpm's so low... they don't turn on!


----------



## B4R51

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *di inferi*
> 
> That sucks man.
> Maybe the "fix" is to decrease the fan rpm's so low... they don't turn on!


but then the profile lights would at least turn on...which they don't


----------



## wlw wl

So maybe they used so many diode fixes that the voltage is 0.
OMG that means all these people asking me for adapters were actually Corsair creating new accounts, and now they are adding them to the coolers


----------



## TemplarLord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> So maybe they used so many diode fixes that the voltage is 0.
> OMG that means all these people asking me for adapters were actually Corsair creating new accounts, and now they are adding them to the coolers


----------



## wlw wl

Yeah, that includes you too! Where did I put my tin foil hat...


----------



## B4R51

more like they figured out that the best way to fix the rattle/grinding noise was to not allow it power on. definitely the last corsair product i buy, especially since im thinking of moving from AM2+ to an Am3 mobo to get some more out of my 1100t, which means i will need some DDR3's i think G.Skill will be my choice.


----------



## wlw wl

I knew you can run H100 passively, but I thought it's about the absence of fans and not the pump








Interesting concept. But basically an over complicated heat pipe.


----------



## salle

I can`t find any words for these problems, to buy a new 3500 dollar system and have this crazy ticking noise is a shame. Changing the unit only to get one that is even worse, is just


----------



## B4R51

lets just hope mine is an isolated issue/case with the new revisions and not a whole faulty new batch.


----------



## wlw wl

Jokes aside, I would think that it's just a very bad luck, I've seen some reports of DOA units before, but a really small number overall.


----------



## bgineng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4R51*
> 
> lets just hope mine is an isolated issue/case with the new revisions and not a whole faulty new batch.


That would suck... Antec would be getting a lot of new business if that happened haha


----------



## wlw wl

Or more people would decide to go custom, you can actually build a custom 240 CPU loop for about 2/3 of the H100 price (a lot cheaper than XSPC Rasa).


----------



## bgineng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Or more people would decide to go custom, you can actually build a custom 240 CPU loop for about 2/3 of the H100 price (a lot cheaper than XSPC Rasa).


2/3 the price of an H100 for a custom loop... dang.


----------



## B4R51

One of my concerns is that when i phone regarding the new unit being DOA that i wont receive one of the new revisions with the rattle/grind fix.


----------



## Sethos88

The rattling is getting on my nerves, hope wlw wl sends out my voltage dropper soon and that it works with mine. I really can't be arsed going through RMA


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4R51*
> 
> One of my concerns is that when i phone regarding the new unit being DOA that i wont receive one of the new revisions with the rattle/grind fix.


I don't think that would happen, I would expect all fo the replacements to be the "fixed" units now, but I;m not them so I don't know.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bgineng*
> 
> 2/3 the price of an H100 for a custom loop... dang.


Possible, yes. Wouldn't be super-duper-high-end-EKWB-all-over but would perform very close to that. You can buy a whole set here which consists of:

Black Water Advanced 122 rev. 3.0 (2x120 RAD, copper+brass)
MNP Prison Pro V4 Acetal CPU block (nickel plated, pure copper, not well known abroad but a real performer)
Black Water Silent Pump 12V with integrated res
2x120 fans
3 meters of 10/13 hose
set of 10/13 compression fittings
TIM (Arctic Ceramique)
1L of coolant
so basically all you need plus some extras (tools, instructions),
and all of that for 359 PLN, while the H100 is around 500 PLN, so that's 71% of H100's price (a bit more than 2/3 but that was a guessimate)








And you can swap the pump for something more powerfull if you feel like it, add a GPU clock if you need it etc., it's a "normal" custom loop...

Not making an ad here (I'm not selling these anyway), just making a point









Sethos88 - I'm making this batch as we speak, might not manage to send them today, but you won't be waiting long either way.


----------



## salle

Yeah, it´s gone pretty far when people have to order "second choice solutions" from people over the internet because we are concerned about another faulty unit.

Do you people know if I`d have better luck with say Antec kuhler 920, just a question?

As you can hear i`m getting scared of water coolers overall...


----------



## theonedub

No reply to my request for an Advanced RMA, but I did get an email with my prepaid standard RMA label.

I am going to use the standard RMA so I do not have to give Corsair any credit card number- they are not getting any of my money, even if its just a hold.


----------



## VigilVindex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Just curious, did you mount the radiator with both tubes at the bottom?


I have the tubes at the top of the radiator. I have since returned my H100 to ebuyer and they have sent out a new one and this one has the pump noise too. I have noticed when I sit the Pc in a flat horizontal position the noise is less audible. The instructions don't mention having to have the radiator or PC in any specific orientation. Do you think this is the problem? Am not sure if I should send this one back and get a Noctua air cooler and be doenw ith all this carry on.

I've read that some have been able to fix the noise with some of cable? Are Corsair going to be sending those out to all who bought the H100?

At any rate I am putting the H100 down in the "do not recommend" list as it seems to be problematic for most of us who have purchased it. Just for me alone, I have now had two brand new sealed H100's and both of them make the noise as soon as you switch them on. Not the sign of a good product at all in my book.

Lot Code: 11499403


----------



## WivZ

wlw wl
I saw your dropper album. Your dropper only has 2 cables while mine have 4 (yellow black black red)
Do I need to make it two cables too?


----------



## wlw wl

Doesn't matter, I just make two cables because a) the other two aren't used by H80/H100 and b) because this makes the adapter stand out and it can be easily told from any other adapter you might use.


----------



## Dukat

Quote:


> Sethos88 - I'm making this batch as we speak, might not manage to send them today, but you won't be waiting long either way.


Well done, can hardly wait, the rattling is driving me fu***** insane(when i'm not gaming







).

But i guess you got your work cut out for you, i bet those sell more than hookers on red light district ;D


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VigilVindex*
> 
> I have the tubes at the top of the radiator. I have since returned my H100 to ebuyer and they have sent out a new one and this one has the pump noise too. I have noticed when I sit the Pc in a flat horizontal position the noise is less audible. The instructions don't mention having to have the radiator or PC in any specific orientation. Do you think this is the problem? Am not sure if I should send this one back and get a Noctua air cooler and be doenw ith all this carry on.
> I've read that some have been able to fix the noise with some of cable? Are Corsair going to be sending those out to all who bought the H100?
> At any rate I am putting the H100 down in the "do not recommend" list as it seems to be problematic for most of us who have purchased it. Just for me alone, I have now had two brand new sealed H100's and both of them make the noise as soon as you switch them on. Not the sign of a good product at all in my book.
> Lot Code: 11499403


Try position the radiator so that the tubes at the bottom. I just want to see whether this make is less audible or silent or still noisy. Mine work silently, no grinding at all (lot code: *1215*9403, production date: 2012 week 15). Even though mine works ok & I can't find anyone at local forum here that have problem with H100, I don't recommend H100 to any of my friends. If you can RMA the units without extra/expensive cost, I suggest better RMA them. I read Corsair only will replaced the problematic H100, not all H100. If you don't want to use H100 anymore, may I suggest XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 watercooling kit. It cost the same like H100, at least in my country.


----------



## wlw wl

Couldn't tell, I haven't been selling hookers.... yet









And when I do, they will be sleeved black too.


----------



## SimpleAndClean

does this issue happens on h40/h50 as well? or just h60/h80/h100?


----------



## wlw wl

My H50 was rattling in a similar fashion, but I think it was rather due to it's age, I don't know if that happened on them when they were new.
However the H50 has a completely different pump, AC motor, but a ceramic shaft and bearing as well. But lowering the voltage doesn't work with those.


----------



## Sethos88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Sethos88 - I'm making this batch as we speak, might not manage to send them today, but you won't be waiting long either way.


Awesome man, appreciate the reply. Crossing my fingers that I'm one of the lucky ones where this method will work!


----------



## B4R51

just got off phone to corsair, been told that they will send me out another unit and to send both faulty ones back via the same RMA.


----------



## wlw wl

You got the pre-paid label?


----------



## Trusty118

Hi Guys, Sorry to hear about the trouble you have been having.

I was looking to buy an H100, but it seems it might not be such a good choice??
Has anyone who has replaced their H100, been happy with something else? Very new to watercooling.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> You got the pre-paid label?


I'd imagine he did. I got my pre-paid label yesterday. I haven't gotten an email that my replacement has been shipped yet though. I'm guessing it'll ship out tomorrow.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trusty118*
> 
> Hi Guys, Sorry to hear about the trouble you have been having.
> I was looking to buy an H100, but it seems it might not be such a good choice??
> Has anyone who has replaced their H100, been happy with something else? Very new to watercooling.


Well, keep in mind that people tend to find a forum like this after doing a Google search on a problem they notice with a product. So, you're usually going to see a swarm of bad experiences in a thread like this, as people look for support and solutions. I'd bet there are MANY happy H100 owners out there, who are using their time to enjoy their product rather than posting in a support forum they have no need for.


----------



## wlw wl

That is true, you're also less likely to find a healthy person in a doctor's office









H100 isn't that bad after all, unless you get one that's rattling or has a defective fan controller. Right now all the H60s, H80s and H100s you see in shops are the "old" ones, the new "fixed" units without the shaft/bearing issue aren't widely available yet AFAIK.

These coolers have the advantage of being sealed, so they are maintenance-free until they die. In a custom loop you have to remember to watch the coolant level and you have to take it apart roughly once a year to clean it up and change the coolant.

Other options for sealed system are the Antec Kuhler 620 and 920, both 120mm (I'm not sure however if the 240 rad in H100 provides any significant advantage, IMO the pump is too weak to fully utilize its (RAD's) potential). And that would basically be it, Antec's are the only ones that have an established position on the market, apart from Corsair's.


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Been trying to contact the Corsair customer line but haven't be able to get through for the past hour. I was told by them (through email) that the phone number I had provided was invalid :S?? Anyways...they seem to be open for another hour so I hope my call goes through by then - really eager to get this issue over and done with.


----------



## Trusty118

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> That is true, you're also less likely to find a healthy person in a doctor's office
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> H100 isn't that bad after all, unless you get one that's rattling or has a defective fan controller. Right now all the H60s, H80s and H100s you see in shops are the "old" ones, the new "fixed" units without the shaft/bearing issue aren't widely available yet AFAIK.
> These coolers have the advantage of being sealed, so they are maintenance-free until they die. In a custom loop you have to remember to watch the coolant level and you have to take it apart roughly once a year to clean it up and change the coolant.
> Other options for sealed system are the Antec Kuhler 620 and 920, both 120mm (I'm not sure however if the 240 rad in H100 provides any significant advantage, IMO the pump is too weak to fully utilize its (RAD's) potential). And that would basically be it, Antec's are the only ones that have an established position on the market, apart from Corsair's.


That's a good point!

Being from New Zealand, I'm probably gaurenteed to get one of the 'old' models. From the reviews I just read on those brands you listed, it seems the H100 is probably the best for me. Thanks for the info!


----------



## B4R51

I have only just now received the pre paid label. never received it for my original rma return...this one now has the weight and value of two coolers written onto it.


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Finally got through the customer service line (after about one and half hours)! They ended up processing an advance RMA and said the replacement unit should ship out soon. I've also been told that I'll be getting a pre-paid UPS shipping label 'soon' (just hoping that 'soon' is actually soon haha).


----------



## wlw wl

Well you have what, two weeks to return the faulty unit? "Soon" should fit in there


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Haha yeah - I'm sure they're not thaaaaat slack







Anyway, thanks a lot for your help wlw wl - both for creating this thread and the voltage dropper







!


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trusty118*
> 
> That's a good point!
> Being from New Zealand, I'm probably gaurenteed to get one of the 'old' models. From the reviews I just read on those brands you listed, it seems the H100 is probably the best for me. Thanks for the info!


Hi Trusty118,
A friend of mine (here in Australia) just bought a H80 a couple of weeks back and that has the rattling noise issue. It might be worth holding on for a bit or discussing the issue with the store before buying one of these Corsair coolers.


----------



## Synner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Other options for sealed system are the Antec Kuhler 620 and 920, both 120mm (I'm not sure however if the 240 rad in H100 provides any significant advantage, IMO the pump is too weak to fully utilize its (RAD's) potential). And that would basically be it, Antec's are the only ones that have an established position on the market, apart from Corsair's.


Thermaltake is selling units now which by the looks of them I would assume are also manufactured by Asetek, in fact they have the same sort of software control as Antecs units. Thermaltake however also has this 2x120 unit http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001876

I wonder if Antec will start selling one as well?


----------



## kizwan

According to this mini review, the unit tested also produced grinding noise.


----------



## MeanBruce

The current circumstance&#8230;many perplexing variables, the overview...unsubstantiated even when well responded.

A moment of ease may be needed here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxdDIwVWrxI.

Hoping this message finds you well wlw_wl, remain strong.

Best regards,

Mr. Sanchez


----------



## wlw wl

Well... I don't know what to say, really.


----------



## salle

Can someone clear something up for me?

My h100:s two fans are attached under my radiator pulling air into the case, is this the best solution for cooling the radiator, or should they pull air from inside the case blowing up the air through the radiator?


----------



## wlw wl

Yes, for "cooling the radiator", or in other words the CPU, it's best if it's set up as direct intake. However for cooling the whole PC it's not, because your dumping the warm air into the case.


----------



## TobyKing1982

What I would like to know is why everyone seems to be getting a different level of service. I've received two emails, one from Corsair and another from UPS,

Firstly from Corsair,

"Dear Toby,

Thank you for contacting Corsair!

We apologize if you are having trouble with one of our products.

Please use RMA number ******* for your request .We have also requested a call tag to pick up the defective unit from your location. UPS will contact you within 2-3 business days to set up a pick up schedule.

If you have any question just let us know.
Thank you and have a great day!

Best Regards,"

Secondly from UPS,

"
This notice alerts you, Corsair memory bv has processed this UPS Returns request. A label has been created and is in transit to the collection location.

Shipment Detail

Collect From:
RMA#********
Toby King
*** *********
Eltham
SE9 ***
GB

Return To:
R. de Groot
Corsair memory bv
Veluwezoom 50
Almere
1327AH
NL

Merchandise Description:

RMA#*********

Number of Packages:

1

UPS Service:
Express Saver
Return Service:
UPS Returns Plus, 3 UPS Pickup Attempts
Weight:2,0 KGS
Tracking Number:
1Z762E*******6630645

Invoice Number:

RMA#*******

Purchase Order Number:

CWCH100"

I'm guessing they are actually coming to collect mine but no word of when they are going to send me out a new unit. I'm really not sure what's going on. Perhaps CorsairGeorge could clear this up?


----------



## Snipes

Thought I would add my experience of the RMA process to date:

I received the stock reply to my first email asking for an advanced RMA after two days (was around 4th July so holiday). As I need an advanced RMA I sent another email asking for an advanced RMA and I got a response yesterday that someone from their team would be in contact to take the hold on my card.

I received the UPS email yesterday but to date no telephone call from Corsair to arrange the hold and delivery.

Have to say that as this is my first RMA I'm a little confused as to what is happening and if I need to do anything! Its not clear if the UPS email refers to when it was a standard RMA and if I am going to get another one for the advanced or not?

Also for the advanced I assume they are picking up the tab for the shipping still but can someone confirm this?

Edit: typo


----------



## kzone75

No grinding noises in the H100 I bought yesterday. It had both a 3 pin connector and a molex. I have the same batch# as the guy in the post #926 on this page http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=97733&page=62 Strange, perhaps..

Where can I find out when the unit was made, btw?


----------



## wlw wl

First four digits. 1213, which means 13th week of 2012. The issue isn't related to a batch number. Well it could be said that all units past X-th June/July of 2012 are problem-free and all before that date can have the issue, but I asked for official confirmation of that date and didn't get any.


----------



## TobyKing1982

UPS just came to pick up my cooler but it's still in my computer because I was told UPS would agree a pick up date with me. The guy was cool though and said he would come back tomorrow for it.


----------



## slizza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobyKing1982*
> 
> UPS just came to pick up my cooler but it's still in my computer because I was told UPS would agree a pick up date with me. The guy was cool though and said he would come back tomorrow for it.


Same here. been away with work and come back to 3 misse UPS slips on my floor.
I was also told they would be in touch to arrange it.

Total joke.

I'll need to complain again. How do i go about requesting a advanced RMA?
I don't have another cooler that will fit right now.


----------



## Synner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobyKing1982*
> 
> What I would like to know is why everyone seems to be getting a different level of service.


Possibly depends on where you are? Here in the States there are UPS drop-off locations all over the place in my area (including a UPS store). I only have to take a very short trip down the road and hand off a package with a prepaid label attached so no need to have them pick up the item.


----------



## ehow

Since I requested my adavanced rma 5 days ago they finally responded but only to find out they wanted me to ship my faulty one back first?? so I called their ph# and spoke with not-so-inclined customer service rep who had no idea how I got this email the first place and when I mentioned about the forum and corsairgeorge who instructed us to use this email for the advanced rma request.. she put me on hold. After the rep came back on the phone asked for my cc# to hold for the replacement. She gave no other info or what I had to do like when can I expect the replacement and the return label..etc. I had to ask her every single question and then she would only answer?? Maybe she didn't like her job or she was a newbie because she surely sounded like total clueless. And when I asked about the known issue with these coolers and if they're since fixed she waited couple of seconds and said ..yes??

Honestly I'm not convinced anything yet until I see it for myself. So far very frustrated with their so-called top notch customer service.. we'll see. So far, I have received the return label and saw the hold on my cc for the replacement on the same day, which is a good sign but I have yet to receive the tracking # for the replacement or maybe a phone call some of you are getting? I never received a phone call from the beginning so I don't expect it nor I care, but if they did ship it already as the rep said before that they would ship on the same day they put hold on my cc, why not just email the tracking# back? So I called back again today and guess what I got the same lady I spoke with the other day.. At the time I wondered how many are working in the customer service dept.. was hoping I'd get someone who'd be more happy with their job and knows what the heck they're doing/saying.. anywho, she said they are shipping the replacement on the next day which is fine, but again it would have been nice to say like.. "you can call back for tracking# or would you like us to send you the tracking via email?" but nooo I had to ask every single da*n question.

Thanks for the vent. We'll see what happens and report in couple of days.


----------



## acidkhmer

hi all









I bought an h100 last week and same pump issue with the horrible hard drive sound









i've maked an email to : [email protected], [email protected] "Hydro Series Buzz" for asking the advanced RMA.

My problem is i'm not speaking english or very basic understanding, i hope to not call the icy corsair support lady !

i've put my olds rma if it help: Case #4827576 "it was my original one"

Case #4832216 "i don't know why corsair create a new one for me?"


----------



## wlw wl

Seems the CC lady is getting quite a fan group


----------



## Dutambalu

My RMA was pretty smooth (But did not go on with the whole process). It basically went down like this

*Wednesday July 4th:* Gave an email with the "Hydro Series Buzz" Problem, with a Advance RMA request

*Thursday July 5th:* Got emailed back and was given an RMA #, but replied as to how the Advance RMA process works.

*July 6-8th:* Corsair RMA Customer Service lady tried to reach me around those days. Called 3 times total, but i was not around to pick up the call

*July 9th:* I finally emailed them back that I decided not to go on with the RMA, and told them that i will notify them if the sound or any other problem persist with my product.

*July 11th:* I got a email back from the same representative, saying no problem, and even got a shipping slip emailed to me, but ignored.

All this communication was from the same person taking care of my RMA.

Corsair gets a 10/10 on customer service


----------



## Tomha

So far I have been very impressed with what has been offered, I am yet to hear from UPS though which is where it sounds like things begin to fall apart.


----------



## standeman

Have to say not impressed at all by this RMA process.

*5th July*

I send an email to the stated address with an advanced RMA request.

*7th July*

I get reply from Joann with an RMA number and a notification telling me that:

_"We have also requested a call tag to pick up the defective unit from your location. UPS will contact you within 4-5 business days to set up a pick up schedule."_

I send a reply asking what to do with the RMA number. I also add that I presume the replacement will be sent and then UPS will pick up the defective unit.

*10th July*

I get a reply stating:

_"We do offer advance replacement which will require a hold on your credit card in order for us to send the replacement out to you first. Once you return the defective part back to us we will release the hold on your credit card. If the part isn't returned within a two week window from the day it was shipped we will notify you and will be charging your credit card.

One of our customer service representative will contact you to process an advance RMA."_

I send a reply stating that I didn't think I should have to have a hold put on my credit card for a known defective product but I would agree on the condition that Corsair gave assurances that UPS would deliver the replacement and collect the defective unit within the stipulated two week time-frame.

Later that day I get an email from UPS saying that a label had been created and is in transit.

*11th July*

UPS arrive at my premises to collect the defective unit. I explain that it is still in my PC as I have not received the replacement yet.

*12th July*

I get another email from Joann stating that I need to call Corsair if I want to process an advanced RMA.

I reply that he/she originally told me that a Corsair representative would contact me to organize this and that I am still awaiting this call.

*Summary*

What a complete farce. Still no promised contact from a Corsair representative to arrange the advanced RMA. I presume UPS will call again today and tomorrow, only to be sent away empty handed. What happens when/if I do get the call from Corsair and the advanced RMA is processed? Will Corsair arrange for UPS to come a fourth time after the replacement has been received?

As a comparison, when building my latest PC, I also spec'ed a Cosmos II. Unfortunately, this case had a known issue with the fan controller. I emailed Cooler Master once and within three days I had a replacement fan controller in my hand. No credit card hold, no need to even send the defective part back. Now that is service!

I can appreciate that sometimes parts have defects. However, it is the aftermarket support that seems to differentiate manufacturers. Corsair could learn a lot from Cooler Master in that respect


----------



## GLaDOSDan

Hey all,

Just got my 'replacement' H100 today, and I stumbled across this thread when it too started to make abnormal noises. I've already ordered a 1N4001 to try the fix from this thread that seems to work for most people, however when I was trying to sort out something else in my case I accidentally nudged the pipes on the H100 - and the noise went away. After 15 minutes or so it came back, but some tapping on the pipes/pump seems to stop the noise for around 15 minutes until it randomly comes back. Does this mean voltage is still my problem? Or could it be something else (an air bubble?). The noise is slightly different to my other defective H100. The first one made the HDD access sound like most people have described, but this new one makes a constant grinding sort of sound.

Should I go ahead and try the 1N4001 mod when it arrives, or is my issue potentially unrelated to voltage as tapping the pipes makes the sound go away?

Thanks for the help guys, especially wlw wl, this thread is invaluable to anyone with this problem!


----------



## wlw wl

From your description it sounds like the pump is going in and out of a state that we could call "a balance or lack thereof".
One 1N400x diode will lower the speed by approx. 200RPM
So go ahead and try the diode thing and just keep on trying till your run out of cake.


----------



## ned99

I just hooked up the new H80 I got today with an advanced RMA and.... IT'S BUZZING!!!!!!









It's not nearly as loud as my original H80 but definitely audible. When I flick the corner of the pump the buzzing stops and it's totally silent but if I flick it again it comes back. The customer service representative I spoke to before I submitted my RMA request assured me that they had fixed this problem in their replacement units which is clearly not the case.

I'm now trying to decide if I should send the replacement back or just use it since it buzzes quieter than the old one?


----------



## wlw wl

Did you try it with the adapter?


----------



## ned99

I just tried it with the adapter but I can still stop and start the buzzing by flicking it. I couldn't do this with my old one so I guess it's an improvement. What do you think I should do? Obviously there's still a design problem but it looks like it's manageable, should I just go ahead and use it?


----------



## wlw wl

You just have to tap the rhythm on it while listening to the music









Seriously though, we have been told again and again that the units are 100% fixed and problem-free now, so I applaud your self-control but IMO you should demand an advance replacement ASAP without further bullsh^W ado.


----------



## Sethos88

I would demand your next replacement being hand-delivered by the CEO of Corsair, it's all becoming a bit too much.


----------



## ned99

Well I just got off the phone with customer support and they're going to be sending me a "revised version" today









This is what they told me the last time but apparently the problem really has been fixed with the new units so we'll see. At least I'll be able to choose the least noisy of my 3 H80s


----------



## wlw wl

Did they give you a shipping label for the remaining two or do you get to keep them?


----------



## ned99

You bet they did. I'm not paying anything more to fix this mess. I think i'm going to write them an angry email and ask for a gift card or partial refund or something because this really is a ridiculous situation. I can't believe they would allow shoddy QC to tarnish their brand when it's such a simple fix.

Woo 500th post


----------



## di inferi

Lol. You have got to be kidding me. That sucks man.

Can't say I didn't expect it though.


----------



## WivZ

I have this awesome H100 and my CPU is i7 3770K

I have one question..
My temp while idle is around 34~36 and 46~52 while playing Diablo 3
Is that normal??? I'm using stock fans on my H100 and I dont OC my CPU at all.


----------



## wlw wl

Yeah I'd say that's okay, H100 is comparable to a decent air cooler, but far from any real water cooling.


----------



## bgineng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> I have this awesome H100 and my CPU is i7 3770K
> I have one question..
> My temp while idle is around 34~36 and 46~52 while playing Diablo 3
> Is that normal??? I'm using stock fans on my H100 and I dont OC my CPU at all.


What are your ambient temps? Your idle temps are a bit warmer than mine.


----------



## WivZ

sometimes my idle temp reach 25~26 but only for a few minutes
I live in Japan and its summer now. I dont know the exatcly ambient temp now, maybe around 29~30


----------



## bgineng

Ok then yeah your temps are fine.


----------



## WivZ

how about you? what is your ambient temp? and your idle temp?


----------



## bgineng

My coolest core idles at 23, warmest at about 31 usually, but my ambient temp is 74 F, so about 23c.


----------



## wlw wl

Again, I'd say it's okay. I have a 125W TDP CPU, OCed, and a big direct HT air tower on that and I have 35-36 degrees now while the ambient is 23-ish.
If you have second thought, you can re-seat the H100 block but don't expect wonders, it might knock a couple of degrees off, but you won't get "ambient+1" kinds of temperatures with it.


----------



## JayWill411

Well my advanced replacement just arrived. The lot number starts with "1227", so if my quick count is correct, the 27th week puts production in the week of June 18th. The production date does seem to line up with the timing of information we've received from Corsair I think.

I'll get it installed tonight and report back with my findings.


----------



## bgineng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayWill411*
> 
> Well my advanced replacement just arrived. The lot number starts with "1227", so if my quick count is correct, the 27th week puts production in the week of June 18th. The production date does seem to line up with the timing of information we've received from Corsair I think.
> I'll get it installed tonight and report back with my findings.


Drumroll.... (this is gonna be a long drumroll)


----------



## WivZ

Well if you guys say okay, then its okay









Oh yeah wlw wl, I havent tap or shake my H100's pump for 2 days and the pump doesn't rattling during that period. I hope it will keep that way


----------



## Teh Bottleneck

There's a good chance I'll be getting a H100 next month,so I really hope I don't experience this issue on my unit...

But even if I get unlucky,at least I know I'll be dealing with a solid customer support.Glad to see a Corsair rep here,acknowledging the issue,and working towards fixing it


----------



## wlw wl

Well a month could be enough for the shops to stock the new units, but I doubt that the old ones are being recalled and replaced with the new ones, it seems that it's still "if you get a noisy one, do an RMA".


----------



## TobyKing1982

My H100 shipped off today and I have also taken delivery of two Cougar Vortex fans to strap on it when I get my replacement. So when it's completed I should have two Cougar fans pulling air through the radiator and I'm using my 200mm Big Boy fan to extract the heat on the top.


----------



## WivZ

what are the best fans for H100?? preferable with red LED


----------



## Teh Bottleneck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Well a month could be enough for the shops to stock the new units, but I doubt that the old ones are being recalled and replaced with the new ones, it seems that it's still "if you get a noisy one, do an RMA".


In my country,demand for hardware isn't too large,so it takes quite a long time for shops to get restocked,and yeah,older units for sure won't be getting recalled...
In the end,can't do much else but to hope to get a good unit right out the box...


----------



## B4R51

its annoying that people are still having issues with the new revised units(me included), corsair said i would receive my second "revised" unit today to replace my other "revised" unit that was DOA and it is now 8pm(GMT) and nothing has arrived.


----------



## wlw wl

Well thanks to George we now know for a fact that those revised units won't be revised again, so no revised2 H100 so it's still "replace till you drop" game


----------



## B4R51

wouldn't be surprised if instead of doing a second revision that they quickly release new Hydro Series coolers, and leave H60,80 and 100 adopters dead in the sea with this issue.


----------



## wlw wl

And adapters too


----------



## Sethos88

We should do some videos where we throw them out of the finger, give it the middle finger and use them for target practice









Been trying to lightly tap mine all night, move around wires, move tubes connected to it, trying to find anything that drops voltage and it just rattles away. I want my adapters *cry*


----------



## B4R51

you tried sticking any molex fans between cooler and psu? may drop it a fraction or two... if my next replacement rattles i think i shall also go down the adapter route, unfortunately i wouldn't be able to make my own.


----------



## wlw wl

Oh right, BTW, the current batch of adapters has been sent today, including your two pieces, Mr Sethos, so expect deliveries folks


----------



## Sethos88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4R51*
> 
> you tried sticking any molex fans between cooler and psu? may drop it a fraction or two... if my next replacement rattles i think i shall also go down the adapter route, unfortunately i wouldn't be able to make my own.


I tried building a massive tower of molex connectors, other fans, splitters and everything I could put in between, all the same







Looked like a skyscraper.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Oh right, BTW, the current batch of adapters has been sent today, including your two pieces, Mr Sethos, so expect deliveries folks


Awesome man, can't wait to give 'em a try. Hopefully I'll return with good news


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

=\ Still no word from either Corsair or UPS! I seemed hopeful after making the initial phone call, but it seems everything has gone into slow gear once again. Just out of curiosity, for those whose replacements have been shipped out, how long did it take for Corsair to send the replacement and then receive a UPS tracking number?

The email said within 24 hours for me but it's now 48 hours+ >_>


----------



## gregoire

I am really dispointed by the advanced RMA I requested the day we got the info about which email to write it to...
Only today I receive a third email with a RMA number to send it back... before the sent me one.

I don't know if that a tradition in Corsair but one thing is certain for me they have the worst customer service I had to work with.

I would be very happy to be able to have a refund and never have to use one of the product anymore


----------



## acidkhmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Oh right, BTW, the current batch of adapters has been sent today, including your two pieces, Mr Sethos, so expect deliveries folks


Hi









Just saw you're in Poland









Please give me your price for the sending "poland >< france" i hope to be in the next batch for your adapter









Regards


----------



## wlw wl

To keep things simple (postage costs differ per region and/or country) I use a flat fee of 8€ / $10 for one adapter shipped, express mail for Europe and North America, or $14 AUD / $15 USD for more distant locations like Australia, Japan, South America. That's based on the past experience of sending the all over the world and on the actual prices that I paid for each one of the 150+ adapter that I sent.


----------



## ekoo

Just got my RMA from Corsair, installed it. So far, so good. The pump is very quiet, no grinding noise, just a very faint "pump" noise if I stick my head in the case and put my ear right up to it, but that's expected. I'll report back in a few days on how things are going.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigDirtyNoob*
> 
> =\ Still no word from either Corsair or UPS! I seemed hopeful after making the initial phone call, but it seems everything has gone into slow gear once again. Just out of curiosity, for those whose replacements have been shipped out, how long did it take for Corsair to send the replacement and then receive a UPS tracking number?
> The email said within 24 hours for me but it's now 48 hours+ >_>


I never actually got a shipping email or tracking number on mine. It just magically arrived today after speaking with them on the phone late Monday afternoon and processing my advanced RMA. I live in California though so it probably only took 1-2 days to get it to me, even with UPS Ground service. My guess is it shipped out Tuesday and I received it today.


----------



## SoulFiend

YES! Thank you so much, had grinding since i bought it, and as i already have the wonderful Zalman MFC1 fan controller, which outputs a maximum of 11 volts. It was just a matter of fixing a special extension-cable


----------



## WivZ

which one is better??
adapter or fan control??


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> which one is better??
> adapter or fan control??


They do the same thing, so neither when it boils down to it. However, you have more control with a fan controller, so you have the ability to dial the voltage down exactly to the point where the pump stops making noise.


----------



## JayWill411

So, I just flipped on my machine after installing my RMA replacement, AND ....

it's silent and working as expected.

The pump has a VERY feint buzz but I consider what I'm hearing normal and within expectations. It's definitely not the high pitched whirr I experienced with my first unit before I dialed down the voltage. My bios is reporting RPM between 2086 and 2163. Idle CPU temp is around 32 C.

Add one to the list for a successful replacement.


----------



## WivZ

I live in Japan. Can I have RMA too? And do I need to spend money for the RMA?


----------



## ehow

It's been 48 hrs since they put a hold on my cc and still no replacement tracking#







Nice going corsair way to keep your promise! I guess I'll be calling back tomorrow to get my tracking# and i wouldn't be even surprised if the damn thing never left the place


----------



## Aaranu

Its been over a week now since i got my email from corsair telling me to wait for another email. I actually have a quite H80 under my bed atm (lol) might as well just chuck that in my system and forget about this whole Noise problem once and for all.


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Thanks for the response JayWill411! I'm in Australia so it'll probably take a bit longer (though past experiences from using UPS have been quite good). I'm just hoping that the replacement has been sent and it's just a delay on their end of sending the tracking number...or perhaps I'm being too hopeful haha. I'll give them till tomorrow and then send through another email/phone call.


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> I live in Japan. Can I have RMA too? And do I need to spend money for the RMA?


Hi WivZ,
I'm in Australia and Corsair are prepared to send me the replacement and cover the cost of posting my defective H100 back. I'm sure they will be doing the same for their other international customers.


----------



## wlw wl

For Australia and Japan, the closest Corsair hub is in Taiwan, so they are probably shipping from/to there.
If you do advanced RMA with a pre-paid shipping label, that doesn't concern you anyway. It would if you were doing normal RMA where you have to pay for the shipping.


----------



## Ickz

RMA process has been going smoothly thus far. Got the automated email reply originally, but replied asking for an advance RMA and I was then given a number to call to set it up. Strangely enough, they actually called me about setting it up before I even got a chance to call first, heh.


----------



## wlw wl

More positive feedback, good!


----------



## panduhz

wlw are you still sending out the undervolted molex wires? I was planning on spending $25 on a fan controller because Im getting desperate but if you had a spare wire that you can send to the US I'd appreciate it. I could mail you an envelope with postage stamps inside. actually i dont know if american stamps would work in poland... umm... a thank you note? let me know, thanks.

edit: this is crazy but has anyone tried opening up the pump to make adjustments?


----------



## gregoire

I don't know if advance RMA is possible in Switzerland or not (after 3 emails from Corsair they still copy my name wrong and don't notice the sentences containing "advance") ?

How "good" is the intel stock cooler for my i3770k if I don't do the advance RMA ?
How should I do with the residue on the CPU when I change from H100->intel's cooler ?
And how to deal with the residue from the the change intel's cooler->H100 when I got the new one back ?

Thank.


----------



## wlw wl

panduhz - YHPM

gregoire - if by residue you mean the leftover TIM, then I use a cotton pad and Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to clean it off. The advance RMA should be possible for you, why not, but maybe you'd have to call them?


----------



## gregoire

Thanks wlw wl,

I have written them back to re-ask for an advance RMA, if I don't hear back on monday I'll try the phone then, but it could be easyer to just buy some Isopropyl alcohol and use the intel stock cooler in the meantime 

Another time thank for your kind answer !!!


----------



## wlw wl

No problem mate








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *panduhz*
> 
> edit: this is crazy but has anyone tried opening up the pump to make adjustments?


Yes, you can apply a fix internally, if you're willing to void the warranty and solder SMD elements, namely resistors.
An external adapter is better because it doesn't void the warranty and is infinitely easier to apply.

One of the Corsair engineers I talked to have in fact suggested "a chassis dial" as one of possible solutions to the situation, which would probably be a potentiometer in place of the fixed voltage divider that sets the pump's RPM in relation to input voltage.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehow*
> 
> It's been 48 hrs since they put a hold on my cc and still no replacement tracking#
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice going corsair way to keep your promise! I guess I'll be calling back tomorrow to get my tracking# and i wouldn't be even surprised if the damn thing never left the place


Just to let you know, I never got a shipping notification email or tracking number either. My replacement just showed up two business days following speaking with a Rep and giving them a CC number to hold until I return the defective unit.

i personally think they're trying to do this outside of their automated RMA process, in hopes of providing more personalized service. As a result, doing things manually is probably causing some glitches in areas that are normally more automated (generating RMA #, pre-paid label, and shipping/tracking emails).


----------



## Waperboy

Excellent work. I have the noise on the H100. I applied wlw-wl's diode mod, and the result was "close but not quite the cigar". RPM of the pump is down from 2190-ish to 2017-ish, and the noise has changed from constant to "on-and-off". Mostly silent, with 1-3 second bursts of noise every few seconds.

Feels like 50 rpm less would settle the issue.

Going to leave it running for a while and see what happens.


----------



## wlw wl

Use two diodes in series, you should get 1800 - 1900 RPM and it will be permanently silent.


----------



## Sethos88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waperboy*
> 
> Excellent work. I have the noise on the H100. I applied wlw-wl's diode mod, and the result was "close but not quite the cigar". RPM of the pump is down from 2190-ish to 2017-ish, and the noise has changed from constant to "on-and-off". Mostly silent, with 1-3 second bursts of noise every few seconds.
> Going to leave it running for a while and see what happens.


Sounds like it needs a bit more voltage drop, like it's right on the edge and oscillating


----------



## salle

Got my third unit H100 today, still the rattling noise, but this time one of the four pin contacts on the pump didn`t work, guess that small number of defect units all came to me


----------



## SoulFiend

OK, so got the my pump running of the allegedly 11 volts output of the Zalman MFC1+ fan-controller, but according to HWmonitor the pump now only runs at 1730-1785 RPM, which is not 11/12 of the ~2200 it usually runs at , So I figure my fan-controller is not outputting the 11 volts it claims, and it is affecting the performance of the cooler. Ran Prime95 twice and and got 52 and 53 C after 20 minutes max heat, which is a 2-3 C above normal at 4100 MHz, 1.50 volt on my Phenom II. Which single-fan fan-controller outputs 12 volts on max and can be set between 90-100%?


----------



## wlw wl

Probably none, all the cheap fan controllers use a transistor, in which you change the base voltage/current with a potentiometer (knob). The transistor by itself, even when saturated (i.e. set to 100%), will introduce about 0,6V drop on the collector-emiter junction.

I've seen some expensive controllers that supposedly can output full 12V, but I don't know what is the actual output.


----------



## SoulFiend

Oh OK, i think i will try the FanMate 2 and see if it doesn't deliver a little closer to 1900-2000 RPM. If not, just return it. Thanks mate


----------



## wlw wl

Are those 2-3 degrees really that important?


----------



## JayWill411

Oh I forgot to mention, the radiator on my replacement had a lot more dings and slightly bent fins than my original unit. Can't they manufacture, package and ship these things without bending the hell out of the radiator fins?


----------



## SoulFiend

Yeah they are, otherwise I'd just go with a normal air-cooler. Besides the FanMate2 only costs ~10 dollars. I wanna get my case and cooling just as i want it, so i can focus on core electronic parts for many years to come. Upgrade strategy FTW:thumb:


----------



## wlw wl

Very well and good luck with taming the H100


----------



## Synner

Well my new unit arrived and it has, or should I say HAD, a lot number starting with 1220, with my old one being 1217. Regardless of whether or not this is after they 'fixed' the 'problem' (doubt it), it still sounded like a friggin coffee grinder mixed with an HDD. I let it run a couple of hours to be sure. Same old crap as before, laying flat the pump was dead silent but positioned as if it were mounted... not so much, to say the least. I followed their instructions exactly. I can't be bothered to try another 5 times to get a unit that isn't the loudest part of my system (and I don't mean the fans).

Long story short, the new 'fixed' unit went back in the box and is being sent right back at Corsair's expense. My original unit had about 2 days left in its RMA window and it is going back to for a refund at my own expense. Corsair just lost a customer, permanently, and I'll never recommend them to anybody. Now I expect them to charge my card because it took more than half of the 14 days to get the so called guaranteed good replacement and the return probably won't arrive in time. I swear at this point I'm so pissed off that I'd return my new 550D as well if not for the cost and the hassle.

Back to my old wholly inadequate air cooler with my case side panels off until I can figure out what to try next... I can get an overpriced Antec 620 at the local big box store. Maybe I'll give it a shot









Edit: If the lot number is indeed Year/Week of manufacture (in this case the 20th week of this year which I'm pretty sure is around mid May, the 13th to the 19th) then I absolutely did not get a "new" unit.


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Just gave Corsair a call and thankfully it's been shipped. They had just forgotten to give me the UPS tracking number, so all seems to be fine







It should be with me on Monday/Tuesday!


----------



## wlw wl

Wow! Well, for some it works, but for some it doesn't - just like the original H100 problem. Putting the RMA issues aside, it seems, dear George, that the units have not been corrected after all. I guess that the problem has been limited from the original "only 1%" to "only 0,85%", which from the silence I guess falls below the company's "unacceptable rate" tab on the chart?


----------



## Tomha

Still waiting on a reply from UPS. I'm really hoping the issue is fixed by this, I really like Corsair and their products, but this is really making me doubtful







.


----------



## ehow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayWill411*
> 
> Just to let you know, I never got a shipping notification email or tracking number either. My replacement just showed up two business days following speaking with a Rep and giving them a CC number to hold until I return the defective unit.
> i personally think they're trying to do this outside of their automated RMA process, in hopes of providing more personalized service. As a result, doing things manually is probably causing some glitches in areas that are normally more automated (generating RMA #, pre-paid label, and shipping/tracking emails).


It looks like you're right, the package arrived today, still I believe they should have provided the tracking# prior to receiving the package which I think is better customer service.

Anyways, so far, no more grinding or hdd like noise. It's subtle but I can still hear if I put my ear next to the case and it sounds like "waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaang.." but then I'm comparing with the diode adapter before the switch and it was complete silence. It is such a pain in the butt to switch back and forth, if this is the best they can do then so be it, I just thought with measly 200 rpm increase not worth the rma if you already have the *fix* in place, imo.

Also, someone already mentioned/received the same mfg code as mine, cause mine too had "122710254" code on the box but then when I tear up the shrink wrap the box actually printed "12269403." So I'm thinking my replacement probably was from the last batch before they had to dump to do more extensive qc testing??


----------



## Face76

Instead of sending mine back, I tried the fix and it worked perfectly, thanks!


----------



## Waperboy

And with two diodes in series, we have silence - woohoo!








Now, one of my case fans is the noisy offender...

Temps still looking good - hovering around 30C on idle, 60C on load. Pump RPM around 1780.

My only gripe now is that I don't have a soldering iron, or fresh molex parts - just twisted stuff together and put some tape around...


----------



## OG1990sBKrandy

I'm debating on whether or not I want to risk the RMA, or just make the diode fix.


----------



## salle

I`ve had two rma:s already, not advanced ones but still, can`t wait for my adapters to be honest.
One can think that it`s about a special made ferrari, contact Corsair, wait for this and wait for that, only to get one more defective unit....come on :









wlw wl//
Have al your shipments made it to the right adress so to speak, If it wouldn`t come in my mailbox I`d get sad.


----------



## salle

although I think the Ferrari would come without a grinding engine or a loose wheel....


----------



## wlw wl

Waperboy - as long as it doesn't fall apart or short-circuit to anything, you should be fine.

OG1990sBKrandy - is RMA a risk? If you get the advance RMA, you don't have to pay for it, so I'd give it a shot probably.

salle - there have been 1 or 2 cases where it took longer than expected but I don't recall any of them not reaching the destination eventually.


----------



## molleh

Just thought I'd update with my RMA results. So far, so good! The new pump is virtually silent - the original one was NEVER this quiet. This is definitely how the pump was meant to operate, no doubt. It's only been in for an hour so no long term results yet, but it's looking promising.


----------



## panduhz

@wlw wl
Bought payday for you and its in my inventory, ill try to get a refund for it because I already own it myself. send me an email at [email protected] because of the PM limit. and I cant see your steam wishlist because you havent added me.


----------



## acidkhmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoulFiend*
> 
> Oh OK, i think i will try the FanMate 2 and see if it doesn't deliver a little closer to 1900-2000 RPM. If not, just return it. Thanks mate


hi,

i just found an zalman fan mate 2 in my stock!

i put in on with the knob on max setting, my pump is turning 1670 to1709 rpm and is silent









the new h100 "advanced rma" must arrive on monday or tuesday, i hope the pump would be repair, if it make some noise wlw wl adpator would be my savior


----------



## SoulFiend

OK, thanks a lot man, guess I'm better of with the Fan-controller I already have then. It gives me 1730 to 1839 RPM


----------



## Ascendor81

I just did a even exchange with Amazon on my H80. Their customer service was great as they let me return the unit that I bought on Nov 30, 2011. Even 3 months after the return date, they even sent me the shipping label.

Now, i just received the new unit, and guess what... grinding right out of the box!.

Should I send it back to Amazon and try again? or RMA it?

I was watching the step-by-step guide on building the adapter @ http://www.overclock.net/gallery/album/view/id/679930. What happened between picture 5 and 6? Is someone selling these adapters, and for how much?

I could PayPal someone $10 to send me 2 of these adapters (just in case I need 2 in series) since I do not have the parts to make one. Does that sounds reasonable?


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Hi all,
Just received my replacement H100. The noise is definitely not bad as my previous unit but unfortunately it still seems to be there







! One thing I've noticed (and remember reading somewhere) is that when I lay the computer flat, the noise disappears. As soon as I put it upright. it returns. Any ideas of why this is happening? I'm not sure if I should contact Corsair about this again or what...

EDIT: The model no. starts with 1227


----------



## NFSxperts

I'm not sure if my H60 pump constitutes as being loud. I've attached a video. Its the best I could record.
The pump starts off at full speed before I turn it down and it buzzes. Could anyone tell me if the noise levels are acceptable? All fans are off in the vid.
http://videobam.com/VBhaV


----------



## Sethos88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFSxperts*
> 
> I'm not sure if my H60 pump constitutes as being loud. I've attached a video. Its the best I could record.
> The pump starts off at full speed before I turn it down and it buzzes. Could anyone tell me if the noise levels are acceptable? All fans are off in the vid.
> http://videobam.com/VBhaV


I'd kill for that kind of silence









Here's mine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQsoX8CLWNk


----------



## wlw wl

jscheema - nothing happened between them. Photo #5 is a diode crimped in the Molex pins, photo 6 is a piece of wire. In photo #8 you have that diode on the bottom, sleeved, and that wire on the top, sleeved as well. Each adapter has a diode on pins #1 (+12V) and a wire on the GND, pin #2. The album shows making of both the diodes and the wires. You should replace the unit directly with Corsair because I doubt that the resellers already have access to the "revised" units.

BigDirtyNoob - it means that you got a faulty replacement, changing the orientation of the puter resolves the rattling by taking the lateral stress off the shaft, so it means this unit has a bearing problem as well.

NFSxperts - this isn't the kind of noise that the major issue is about, I do not know if that qualifies for a replacement, and frankly it doesn't sound so bad to make it worth the hassle of RMA, at least for me.


----------



## Sethos88

Voltage droppers have arrived and conclusion? It works! Only needed one of them and there's no more rattling, PC is silent now.

Thank you so much wlw wl!


----------



## wlw wl

And you didn't have to kill anyone after all


----------



## B4R51

well the third replacement has arrived and it works perfectly, no grind, and the fans work!


----------



## Sethos88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> And you didn't have to kill anyone after all


A few baby seals or a kitten might have to suffer over Corsair's shoddy QA


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just waiting for a reply from SpecialTech to see if they can replace my H100. It's the second one that I've had now that makes a noise. Hopefully they'll get it sorted.


----------



## wlw wl

B4R51 - third time's a charm, right?









Sethos88 -
















VulgarDisplay88 - ask them for a batch number, if it's from before July 2012, it's potentially bad.


----------



## salle

Many thanks wlw wl!

Like I wrote in the pm, 90-95% of the rattling is gone , question is if its worth to strangle another 150-200 rpm:s for those remaining 5%, the only thing that can happen is that temps go up 2-3c, right?


----------



## B4R51

indeed third times a charm, no more corsair lucky dip for me


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Thanks wlw wl









They have said:

1: You could send the H100 to Corsair directly, and have them deal with the RMA and send out a working replacement

2: You could send the H100 to us, and we could send a replacement, however we have no way of knowing whether or not it will suffer the same problem as the one you had

3: You could send the H100 to us, and we could issue you with a refund

1 - not happening (£30+ to send it)
2 - might happen if they can check batch number
3 - might happen


----------



## wlw wl

salle - try it and you'll see, you might even see no difference in temperatures at all.

VulgarDisplay88 - you can use the selective RMA procedure described by CorsairGeorge here, then it will be free of charge for you (you will receive a pre-paid shipping label). You can even arrange for an advance RMA, they will send the replacement to you first, but they will put a hold on your credit card for the duration of the exchange (it will be lifted when you return the faulty unit).


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> VulgarDisplay88 - you can use the selective RMA procedure described by CorsairGeorge here, then it will be free of charge for you (you will receive a pre-paid shipping label). You can even arrange for an advance RMA, they will send the replacement to you first, but they will put a hold on your credit card for the duration of the exchange (it will be lifted when you return the faulty unit).


Thanks. I have replied to SpecialTech and am awaiting their reply.

I have also emailed Corsair asking for an advanced selective RMA like you suggested.

Thanks again.

EDIT:

SpecialTech have said that they are willing to test a brand new unit in front of 3 employees and if it is quiet then they'll send it out as a replacement BUT if it develops a problem then they will NOT accept it as a return and I will have to go through Corsair.

I have told them that I am awaiting a reply from Corsair and that I'll contact them if I want to take that approach.


----------



## di inferi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Thanks. I have replied to SpecialTech and am awaiting their reply.
> I have also emailed Corsair asking for an advanced selective RMA like you suggested.
> Thanks again.
> EDIT:
> SpecialTech have said that they are willing to test a brand new unit in front of 3 employees and if it is quiet then they'll send it out as a replacement BUT if it develops a problem then they will NOT accept it as a return and I will have to go through Corsair.
> I have told them that I am awaiting a reply from Corsair and that I'll contact them if I want to take that approach.


Go with Corsair.

Unless SpecialTech has a PSU that is putting out identical voltage as yours on the +12V rail (George said above 12.2ishV; you'd have to read further back in the thread) then you won't know if the unit is "defective." It could make zero noise when they test it on their PSU that puts out 12.1V but grind again when you get it.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Didn't think about that. Thank you.

I'll just wait for Corsair to reply and go with them.

EDIT:

Just had a reply saying to ring them. It's all sorted and they're sending out a replacement with a pre-paid label so I can send back the old one.

Top notch customer service in my opinion.

Thanks for the help and I'll update when the new one arrives.


----------



## djgizmo

What to CorsairGeorge?

I sent an email to [email protected] on July 11th (in the evening), and have yet to hear back from anyone.

Is this common for their email response? Normally their ticketing system gets next day response.


----------



## theonedub

All I have seen from Corsair is that they cannot provide a *consistent* level of service to ALL their customers.

I've requested an update on my RMA this morning and on Friday, so lets see if they will get back to me today with a tracking number for my replacement. You would think that with the warehouse being less than 3hrs from where I live and the cooler suffering from a known issue, they would have a replacement sent out within 24hrs. I wonder what crafty excuse they will come up with if mine hasn't already shipped out?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I already had an open RMA and I sent the email titled "Hydro Series Buzz" containing my details at 13:55, got this reply at 16:50:

Thank you for contacting Corsair!

We are sorry to hear you are having problems with our product. To expedite the process, you may apply for an RMA number on our website at http://www.corsair.com/support/technicalsupport . After you have completed the online form, you will receive an email with your RMA number.

We do offer advance replacement, please contact our customer service at 888-222-4346 ext 0 and request for an advance RMA. This will require a hold on your credit card in order for us to send the replacement out to you first. Once you return the defective part back to us we will release the hold on your credit card. If the part isn't returned within a two week window from the day it was shipped we will notify you and will be charging your credit card.

Please have your RMA number and part number ready when you call. Our office hours are Monday through Friday 8:00 am to 5:00 pm PST.

Once we received your case number, we will request a call tag to pick up the defective unit from your location. UPS will contact you within 4-5 business days to set up a pick up schedule.

Thank you for choosing Corsair and we appreciate your business.

And then I rang the number included and gave my RMA number. They took my cc details and gave me a new RMA number to put on the returning parcel and said that they will dispatch it within 24 hours.


----------



## skoging

Figured I'd provide some info about my experience with the RMA.

On the 4th I sent an email like CorsairGeorge recommended here in this thread, and after some trouble with the address I provided I finally got this email on the 12th:

"Thank you for contacting Corsair!

We apologize if you are having trouble with one of our products.

Please use RMA number ******* for your request .We have also requested a call tag to pick up the defective unit from your location. UPS will contact you within 4-5 business days to set up a pick up schedule.

We have processed your new replacement and is scheduled to be shipped within 1-2 business days.

If you have any question just let us know.
Thank you and have a great day!"

I did ask for an advanced RMA in my orginal email, and it looked like I was getting one as the email said my replacement would be shipped in 1-2 days. Corsair hadn't called me for a hold on my credit card though, so I responded asking if it was being handled as an advanced RMA.

Today I still hadn't gotten a response to my last email, but I got an email from UPS saying that Corsair had processed a UPS Returns request and a label had been created and was in transit to the collection location. I figured I wasnt getting an advanced RMA so I called Customer Support and asked, apparently my replacement would be shipped out today, and they didnt need a hold on my credit card.

So, all in all, though things seem to take some time, I'm fairly happy with the handling of my case. Just as long as my new unit is silent and arrives soon


----------



## MarkMcPain

They told me I have to pay for return shipping.

I guess it depends on your location.


----------



## Darylrese

Hi guys,

Just thought id give you an update on my H100 pump noise. Mine was grinding and gurgling for ages, i bought a molex to 3 pin adaptor from ebay and turned the pump down a bit to stop the noise, left it at about 90% for a few weeks, whacked it back up to 100% and the noise has completely gone. Hasnt done it for a good 2 months now on full power. Im guessing its an air bubble which will clear over time or atleast mine has







I suggest anyone who has this noise and a spare lead on their controller to give this a go. Cost me a couple of £ and seems to have fixed it running at full speed totally silent now.


----------



## captinkirk

Quote:


> Just thought id give you an update on my H100 pump noise. Mine was grinding and gurgling for ages, i bought a molex to 3 pin adaptor from ebay and turned the pump down a bit to stop the noise, left it at about 90% for a few weeks, whacked it back up to 100% and the noise has completely gone. Hasnt done it for a good 2 months now on full power. Im guessing its an air bubble which will clear over time or atleast mine has thumb.gif I suggest anyone who has this noise and a spare lead on their controller to give this a go. Cost me a couple of £ and seems to have fixed it running at full speed totally silent now.


Darylrese, could you post a link for the adapter you used please.
Did this let you control the pump via your motherboard fan controller or a drive bay mounted fan controller, I have an ASUS motherboard with fan expert would this let me drop the speed of the pump using this adapter plugged into one of my motherboard fan points?


----------



## Q9650

RMA UPDATE: (7/16/2012)

2 boxes arrived from UPS!

Received today the 2nd h100 (Lot #12279403) and this one is totally silent!!
















Also recevied a new corsair vengeance 1100 gaming headset as a gift!!









I was really pleased and surprised... thank you corsair!!









I noticed 2 things when i unboxed the h100...

The Lot # sticker changed abit and there was more TIM applied (larger grey square) to the cpu/pump block.

New sticker... good silent h100










Old sticker... bad noisy pump










what do you think on my findings? do you agree? only the label changed same box. users can look at the label to see if they have a good/bad unit.

I had to replace 6 h100`s with my local store and 2 rma`s with corsair but now the nightmare is over and i am enjoying my new silent h100....ahhh silence is golden!

thank you corsair for your amazing RMA service and super fast shipping with UPS! it was a nice experience and also wish to thank Joann for taking care of my RMA. I am still loyal to corsair and will never stop buying your products!

Corsair = FTW!!!


----------



## Q9650

I am trying out my new vengeance 1100 gaming headset ...thank you corsair...nice gift!









You really know how to treat your customers!


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Q9650*
> 
> what do you think on my findings? do you agree? only the label changed same box. users can look at the label to see if they have a good/bad unit.


What your labels show is the bad unit was manufactured in the 13th week of 2012, and the good unit in the 27th week. My working replacement was also made in the 27th week, so while we can't be 100% assured of anything, it's safe to say that units with lot numbers that start with 1227 or higher should be manufactured using the improved process and should be pump noise free.


----------



## theonedub

No surprise- still no return email with the tracking information for my replacement unit. Way to go Corsair- at least you guys are working on being consistently awful.

Whats the over under on my replacement being just as big a piece of garbage as the unit Corsair originally made?

In other news, my GSkill RMA (which had to travel 2x the distance) arrived on Friday. That's under a week from start to finish with no need to send multiple emails, fill out forms repeatedly, or even include my purchase invoice. I believe I have found my new go to RAM manufacturer.


----------



## panduhz

Yep same here, no email back from them. And their HQ is a couple minutes from my house, I should march in there and demand a replacement.


----------



## Richiie

Received my new replacement unit, to find out that it is louder than my defective unit, and this is also from the new lot '12279403'.

Sounds like I have a mini vacuum cleaner in my computer..


----------



## salle

WLW WL

Just wanted to add that it wasn`t the pump that had a little noise left but one of the fans in the case.


----------



## gregoire

Arrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggghhhhhhhhh : just put my original intel CPU cooler instead of the H100 :-(
The H100 was noisy, but the intel's fan is just horrible...
I should definitely have bought one Nofan CR-95C IcePipe Coolers  (well not sure if my G.SKILL RipjawsX F3-1600C9Q-32GXM (8Gx4) could have fit or not...


----------



## Dukat

Thanks wlw wl.

Received the voltage dropper today and it works perfectly, the "#¤#""#¤%/&%¤







noise/rattling/grinding is gone.

Also no drop in cooling performance.

All i had to do is open the package, remove the side cover and connect it, hassle free.

You rock man, thanks again.


----------



## dazbobaby

I still need one of the voltage droppers wlw, when you have them ready to go.


----------



## theonedub

*Update:*

Got a reply to my emails from Corsair. Apparently the replacements were back-ordered. I was given my tracking numbers for the replacement and a headset that were shipped yesterday. Since Corsair is only a few hours from my home they are already out for delivery. Once the cooler comes in I will test it and report back.


----------



## Darylrese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captinkirk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Just thought id give you an update on my H100 pump noise. Mine was grinding and gurgling for ages, i bought a molex to 3 pin adaptor from ebay and turned the pump down a bit to stop the noise, left it at about 90% for a few weeks, whacked it back up to 100% and the noise has completely gone. Hasnt done it for a good 2 months now on full power. Im guessing its an air bubble which will clear over time or atleast mine has thumb.gif I suggest anyone who has this noise and a spare lead on their controller to give this a go. Cost me a couple of £ and seems to have fixed it running at full speed totally silent now.
> 
> 
> 
> Darylrese, could you post a link for the adapter you used please.
> Did this let you control the pump via your motherboard fan controller or a drive bay mounted fan controller, I have an ASUS motherboard with fan expert would this let me drop the speed of the pump using this adapter plugged into one of my motherboard fan points?
Click to expand...

Yes sure, i used one of these and it works a treat. I run mine from a fan controller but i cant see why you couldn't run it from a motherboard fan header! I dont really need mine anymore as it runs silent at full speed but ill leave it as it is just incase it comes back. I still believe it was an air bubble or something in the system.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-pin-Molex-Female-to-3-pin-fan-Female-BRAIDED-BLACK-ALSO-IN-OTHER-COLOURS-/190695049239?pt=UK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL&hash=item2c664f8817


----------



## wlw wl

I was away for 3 days and I'm back. I see mixed feelings about the selective RMA process. And it seems time and time again that the popularity of this issue was and is being underestimated by Corsair.

For those of you who asked about the adapters, I will make and send one more batch next week, then I'm going on vacation until mid August


----------



## speedlll

Hello All,

This is my first post, I just wanted to commend wlw wl for his AWESOME adapter, it has solved my grinding issue completely! i highly recommend it.


----------



## theonedub

I got my replacement today. Plugged it in for a quick test and it does not appear to have any grinding, although more thorough testing will be done later.

Corsair did also send me a Vengeance 1100 Headset for the delay in getting my replacement out. That's a nice gesture- guess I will find a use for them.


----------



## wlw wl

So now they are adding "Forgive me" pair of headphones?








That's good news, maybe I'll finally get the screws for H100 that I ordered 6 months ago. With an extra pair of headphones!


----------



## TouchyFeely

Here is an analogy for you.

If I went to my local BMW dealership and told him that when I drive down the road at 60MPH the car starts to shake and make noise and his response was to put a governor on my gas pedal so it only went 55MPH, I would never buy a BMW again or I'd slap the mechanic in the mouth.

There are many things we can do and Corsair can do to eliminate SYMPTOMS, but the reality is that something is wrong with the device.

"For every 1 person with a problem there is 100 people without the problem." I'm not sure what made you say that, or even what you thought we would think when you said that or what you were even thinking when you said that. I'm sure you were trying to illustrate that the amount of people with the issue is a lot lower than the people with the issue but at the end of the day what is that supposed to mean in a forum focused solely on the failure of your product? I mean... is any level of failure or poor quality acceptable? In all reality it makes me feel even worse to know that my unlucky a$$ is part of the 1 percent of people that have a problem!

I could write a paragraph about your outsourcing rebuttal CorsairGUY, but it won't make a difference because at the end of the day nothing I say or anyone here says, the fact that you guys out-source to China is never going to change because it's all about one thing... $$$$$$
If it doesn't make CENTS it doesn't make sense.

Look.... Here is the deal... Corsair makes a little bit of everything, you guys even have speakers out. *** does corsair know about speakers? NOTHING!!!!!!! That's why they sound like garbage, but you make them because people like to accessorize. Corsair EVERYTHING from head to toe. Corsair was known for 1 thing... RAM and more importantly then RAM.. WARRANTY which really boils down to PEACE OF MIND.
It was nice to buy a product and know that if it EVER broke you guys would fix it. Well you have taken that reputation and stamped it on every single peripheral you can think of and have become very wealthy in doing so.

But when 1 percent of your customers have a bad experience it doesn't just hurt your water-cooling line, just like the RAM back in the day paved the way for Corsair today, Corsairs desire to pump out more for less costs you across the board. If Corsair loses a customer for Water Cooling because of crappy customer service or a terrible forum response or w.e, they really run the risk of losing a customer for:

Headphones
Power Supplies
Cases
Fans
SSD's
Keyboards
Mice

So every time a Corsair rep opens their mouth or types post it really affects your entire product line. That 1 percent can turn into an exponent very quickly.

Just to add... I commend Corsair guys for coming in here and fixing things, sending parts out and trying to make right..


----------



## gregoire

I just received my RMA this morning and installed it : at more than 1600rpm it produces more noise than the previous one ???
At 1570 rpm (more or less) it almost silent which is better than what I could achieve with the first one, but still far from perfect.

Any idea on what I should do ?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregoire*
> 
> I just received my RMA this morning and installed it : at more than 1600rpm it produces more noise than the previous one ???
> At 1570 rpm (more or less) it almost silent which is better than what I could achieve with the first one, but still far from perfect.
> 
> Any idea on what I should do ?


Do you have another PSU that you could quickly test it with?


----------



## Darylrese

No-one else found after controlling their H100 Pump via an adaptor the unit stopped making this noise or is it just mine?


----------



## wlw wl

gregoire - you should have it replaced ASAP with no charge and no CC hold BS

Darylrese - I don't really understand what you mean. The fact that you can use a fan controller or an adapter to control it from a motherboard fan header has been know for a long time, but you shouldn't be put in a position where you have to use a controller to tune the device because it's faulty, probably that's why people prefer "fire and forget" adapters like the diode mod.


----------



## gregoire

I just wrote Corsair back about their "fixed" H100...
I don't have another PSU at hand easyly, but my seasonic X400 is certainly fine... I got the same noise if I connect the H100 to my MB and after my fancontroller also (Zalman MFC3).

It's quiete sad :-( I hope usual Corsair product are better than this one ( I probably will never try).


----------



## Darylrese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> gregoire - you should have it replaced ASAP with no charge and no CC hold BS
> Darylrese - I don't really understand what you mean. The fact that you can use a fan controller or an adapter to control it from a motherboard fan header has been know for a long time, but you shouldn't be put in a position where you have to use a controller to tune the device because it's faulty, probably that's why people prefer "fire and forget" adapters like the diode mod.


What i mean is i used an adaptor to change the speed for a few weeks because i had the grinding noise,but since putting it back to full speed the pump is no longer making the noise! So in therory by running it at a lower speed for awhile actually fixed it. You wouldnt know if you just used the diode all the time unless you decided to plug it back in without it to try after a month or a few weeks!

I know this isnt the point and it should work 100% all the time from the start but for a couple of £ its saves a lot of hassle trying to RMA. Mine now runs happily without the adaptor, whereas before it was making a right racket!


----------



## NakedMike

Hi All, I have the same issue (of course)

I live in the UK, has anyone managed to arrange an advanced RMA from the UK?

I have exchanged several emails with corsair support but all I keep getting is a copy/paste reply and a US phone number. Does anyone have a contact for UK/EU support to arrange an advanced RMA?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NakedMike*
> 
> Hi All, I have the same issue (of course)
> I live in the UK, has anyone managed to arrange an advanced RMA from the UK?
> I have exchanged several emails with corsair support but all I keep getting is a copy/paste reply and a US phone number. Does anyone have a contact for UK/EU support to arrange an advanced RMA?


I'm from the UK and I received my replacement H100 today that was an advanced RMA. I used Skype to ring the US number so it was free and they were very helpful.


----------



## TobyKing1982

I received my new H100 (12269403) today and thankfully the buzzing has gone. Although the fan control doesn't appear to work like the last one. I am willing to live with this though because it's a easy fix.

Many thanks to wlw wl for starting this thread, nice work


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TouchyFeely*
> 
> Here is an analogy for you.
> If I went to my local BMW dealership and told him that when I drive down the road at 60MPH the car starts to shake and make noise and his response was to put a governor on my gas pedal so it only went 55MPH, I would never buy a BMW again or I'd slap the mechanic in the mouth.


This is completely true, and why we didn't offer a diode "fix". The diode slows the pump down, and reduces performance. This is is why we put a fix in place in production after a root cause analysis.
Quote:


> There are many things we can do and Corsair can do to eliminate SYMPTOMS, but the reality is that something is wrong with the device.
> 
> "For every 1 person with a problem there is 100 people without the problem." I'm not sure what made you say that, or even what you thought we would think when you said that or what you were even thinking when you said that. I'm sure you were trying to illustrate that the amount of people with the issue is a lot lower than the people with the issue but at the end of the day what is that supposed to mean in a forum focused solely on the failure of your product? I mean... is any level of failure or poor quality acceptable? In all reality it makes me feel even worse to know that my unlucky a$$ is part of the 1 percent of people that have a problem!


I made the comment because I wanted people to have a bit of perspective. If you read the forums here you'd think that anybody who buys an H100 thinks it's a piece of crap and throws it through a window and then places a curse on Corsair. This just isn't the case.

That being said, I also understand the other side of it. If you have a bad one, who cares if 99 other guys got good ones? It just makes you feel unlucky and angry. So I apologize if I pissed anybody off with that. My fault entirely.
Quote:


> I could write a paragraph about your outsourcing rebuttal CorsairGUY, but it won't make a difference because at the end of the day nothing I say or anyone here says, the fact that you guys out-source to China is never going to change because it's all about one thing... $$$$$$
> If it doesn't make CENTS it doesn't make sense.


You're 100% right. If you were willing to pay $199 for an H100, we could probably make them in the US. The problem is, all our competition would be making them in China, and China is getting very good at making things quickly, inexpensively, and quality is going upwards.

So it's not just us here at Corsair who care about costs. It's you guys, too. Where do you think the $199 Android Tablets are being made? It's not in the US, I'll guarantee that.
Quote:


> Look.... Here is the deal... Corsair makes a little bit of everything, you guys even have speakers out. *** does corsair know about speakers? NOTHING!!!!!!! That's why they sound like garbage, but you make them because people like to accessorize. Corsair EVERYTHING from head to toe.


I completely disagree. Our SP2500 speakers have received fantastic reviews, anybody who owns a set knows how great they sound. And you're right, we didn't know anything about audio or speakers. So unlike some of our competitors who just go buy stuff off the shelf in China, we hired internal engineers, and people with audio experience as product managers from other companies that had done it before. Before we even started audio products we hired a handful of people who'd done it for other companies. And we spent over a year designing and testing our speakers and perfecting them.

The 2200s were better than any other set of speakers in their price range, but nobody buys $99 PC speakers anymore, so they're kind of SOL. The $249 SP2500s sound better than any other PC speakers I've heard, and better than some bookshelf monitors, too. We can argue scientifically why this is the case, but if you don't like them, nothing I'll say will change your mind.

Quote:


> Corsair was known for 1 thing... RAM and more importantly then RAM.. WARRANTY which really boils down to PEACE OF MIND.
> It was nice to buy a product and know that if it EVER broke you guys would fix it. Well you have taken that reputation and stamped it on every single peripheral you can think of and have become very wealthy in doing so.


We strive to do this. Every product we sell, we feel is of the highest quality we can achieve. Sometimes we screw up, but we do what we can to fix it. I feel like we have better quality and better support than any of our competition, but we're not perfect.
Quote:


> But when 1 percent of your customers have a bad experience it doesn't just hurt your water-cooling line, just like the RAM back in the day paved the way for Corsair today, Corsairs desire to pump out more for less costs you across the board. If Corsair loses a customer for Water Cooling because of crappy customer service or a terrible forum response or w.e, they really run the risk of losing a customer for:
> Headphones
> Power Supplies
> Cases
> Fans
> SSD's
> Keyboards
> Mice
> 
> So every time a Corsair rep opens their mouth or types post it really affects your entire product line. That 1 percent can turn into an exponent very quickly.
> Just to add... I commend Corsair guys for coming in here and fixing things, sending parts out and trying to make right..


I've worked here for 8 years, seen every new product category launch since we decided to make flash drives. Every time we launch something new, somebody says "What the hell are you thinking Corsair, you guys can't make [Power Supplies/Cases/Fans/SSDs/Keyboards/Mice/Headsets/Speakers/Flash Drives], stick to memory!"

Lately we've proven them wrong. Our PSUs are among the best in the world. Same with our SSDs, our fans, our cases, and a lot of our other products. We have a lot of growth potential. We have had some growing pains. Our thoughts are "If people are buying parts out there and nobody's making them right, why don't we jump in and make them better?"

We've proven we can do that, time and time again. For those with the H100 problems, I sincerely apologize and I'd be pissed off about it too. But let's not pretend that the H100 is a failure - it isn't. It had some bugs during its run, but overall it's still the best performing CPU cooler you can buy, and it lets you easily access your RAM and motherboard without removing it from the case. I think it's a great product, not perfect, but still great. And we've fixed the problem *in production*, not with a band-aid, but with a redesign.

I learned a lot from this experience - we won't make the same mistake again. We're already on the warpath for future products.


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> And we've fixed the problem *in production*, not with a band-aid, but with a redesign.


Earlier you said it was a tooling problem, which doesn't sound much like a redesign. PR talk is PR talk, but I prefer sticking to the facts.

And no, H100 isn't the best performing CPU cooler you can buy. It performs on par with good air cooling. Performance isn't why people choose it, compact design is.


----------



## vs17e

If I wanted the voltage dropper fix (I already RMA'd once before the redesign fix and don't feel like paying for shipping again), whats the cost for one of them if you were to make one and ship it to me in the U.S.?


----------



## wlw wl

$10 shipped. If you've already RMAed, subsequent replacements are free of charge for you.


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Earlier you said it was a tooling problem, which doesn't sound much like a redesign. PR talk is PR talk, but I prefer sticking to the facts.


We made a change to the tooling, which involved modifying the pump impeller and bearing. This isn't PR talk, that's modifying the design.

As for performance, the H100 is the best out-of-the-box cooler we've ever tested. It can be loud, for sure, but it offers flexibility and performance that other coolers don't.


----------



## wlw wl

Now it isn't just a PR talk


----------



## candy_van

Got my dropper yesterday, thanks again wlw wl!









@ Corsair George:

Is it possible to order direct + ensure getting a new / corrected lot #?
Would prefer to get it right 1st instead of having to swap out whatever (insert store here) has in stock.


----------



## wlw wl

From the lack of threatening e-mails, I take it that it worked for you?


----------



## CorsairGeorge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> Got my dropper yesterday, thanks again wlw wl!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ Corsair George:
> Is it possible to order direct + ensure getting a new / corrected lot #?
> Would prefer to get it right 1st instead of having to swap out whatever (insert store here) has in stock.


I posted the method earlier in the thread, yeah.


----------



## cayers71

I am stoked to see that the issue has been identified and fixed! I have been living with a noisy H80 for many months now, but not that Corsair didn't try to fix it...in fact they shipped me 3 RMA replacments. All of the units produced the same grindign noise, but I have a Corsair 850 watt PSU, which is probably the culprit.

I just emailed the email address provided by CorsairGeorge...will keep all posted on the outcome. i am looking forward to a silent PC!


----------



## NFSxperts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> NFSxperts - this isn't the kind of noise that the major issue is about, I do not know if that qualifies for a replacement, and frankly it doesn't sound so bad to make it worth the hassle of RMA, at least for me.


What speed is the pump supposed to run at? If its at ~4245rmp, then my last video was incorrect. In the previous video, I had hooked it up to a pci fan controller and even when it was on 100% the max pump speed was only at 3824rmp. Here's a new video at 4245rmp and I can clearly hear a buzzing sound now.
http://videobam.com/lMHTQ
The H60 has been running almost 24/7 since I bought it early this year. Mounted horizontally if it makes any difference.


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> I posted the method earlier in the thread, yeah.


The advanced RMA? Sorry that's all I could find and I just went through like 12 pages to before the official fix was even announced


----------



## Aaranu

When shipping back to corsair for the RMA do you only have to send back the unit itself? Or all the screws etc etc?


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaranu*
> 
> When shipping back to corsair for the RMA do you only have to send back the unit itself? Or all the screws etc etc?


They are shipping back brand new sealed retail units, so I imagine you should return everything to avoid any possible issues or delays (at least thats what I did- including the old box).


----------



## gregoire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> What i mean is i used an adaptor to change the speed for a few weeks because i had the grinding noise,but since putting it back to full speed the pump is no longer making the noise! So in therory by running it at a lower speed for awhile actually fixed it. You wouldnt know if you just used the diode all the time unless you decided to plug it back in without it to try after a month or a few weeks!
> I know this isnt the point and it should work 100% all the time from the start but for a couple of £ its saves a lot of hassle trying to RMA. Mine now runs happily without the adaptor, whereas before it was making a right racket!


I just tried to put my pump at 2120rpm (which seems the max after my fancontroller) and it seems effectively way more silent than before the period at low speed, I have to try to put it directly after my PSU (or on the motherboard) to see if it's really silent there.

In any scenario I think I would have been better served with the Nofan's CR95C.

Thank.


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aaranu*
> 
> When shipping back to corsair for the RMA do you only have to send back the unit itself? Or all the screws etc etc?


The cooler and the fans would have the top priority, if you forget the screws it shouldn't be that bad, but I'd make sure everything is there just to avoid confusion and delays.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CorsairGeorge*
> 
> I posted the method earlier in the thread, yeah.
> 
> 
> 
> The advanced RMA? Sorry that's all I could find and I just went through like 12 pages to before the official fix was even announced
Click to expand...

I put the link in the OP mate, it's right here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1236923/corsair-h100-h80-h60-noise-grinding-pump-fix-official-corsair-response/560_20#post_17622664









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFSxperts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> NFSxperts - this isn't the kind of noise that the major issue is about, I do not know if that qualifies for a replacement, and frankly it doesn't sound so bad to make it worth the hassle of RMA, at least for me.
> 
> 
> 
> What speed is the pump supposed to run at? If its at ~4245rmp, then my last video was incorrect. In the previous video, I had hooked it up to a pci fan controller and even when it was on 100% the max pump speed was only at 3824rmp. Here's a new video at 4245rmp and I can clearly hear a buzzing sound now.
> http://videobam.com/lMHTQ
> The H60 has been running almost 24/7 since I bought it early this year. Mounted horizontally if it makes any difference.
> :snip:
Click to expand...

That sounds like the good old rattling pump.
The H60 reports twice the RPM it should, so ~4240 is actually ~2120 RPM. That's the normal speed.
You mean that it was quiet when you run it at 1900 RPM (~3820)?

It qualifies for a replacement, or you can run it from a fan controller or a motherboard's adjustable fan header.


----------



## SaucedtC

I have made my RMA thru Corsair's main website and the email they sent me pretty much said to ship it to them. I have my RMA number, so should I also send an email to the RMA procedure CorsairGeorge provided? Btw I saw this post AFTER I had sent my RMA request through Corsair.

EDIT: So my other question is; would Corsair send me a UPS printed label for them to pick it up from my location?


----------



## wlw wl

2x yes


----------



## SaucedtC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> 2x yes


RMA Email sent. Thanks. So at this point just wait for my new RMA number and info from the new updated one via CorsairGeorge RMA method right?


----------



## wlw wl

Yup, if you gave then your phone number, they should call you. If you didn't, you can call them on the toll free number and give them the
RMA# and all the details.


----------



## SaucedtC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Yup, if you gave then your phone number, they should call you. If you didn't, you can call them on the toll free number and give them the
> RMA# and all the details.


Yeah thats the funny thing, I gave them my phone number the first time and no call. Just an email telling me where and how to ship my RMA to Corsair. I found it odd that they didnt send me a shipping label. Then I found this thread, which im glad or else woulda never found out about the advance replacement. Ill wait for my phone call.


----------



## ned99

So I tried my 3rd H80 today and *drum roll* success! Completely silent, no grinding, buzzing, bubbling, or any noise aside from the fans. This was my 2nd advanced RMA and the customer service person I spoke with assured me that the new RMA units have been all been fixed. Glad Corsair has finally fixed this problem but my faith in their QC is shaken to say the least.


----------



## WivZ

Hey guys. I had post before this telling that my temp with H100 is around 33~38 while idle and 45~53 while playing Diablo 3.
Some people told me its normsl but I kinda not happy with that.

I'm using Asus Sabertooth z77, and today I tried to change to Advance mode from normal mode in BIOS, and the temp is kinda high.. idle ~43 and when I tried playing Diablo 3, the temp reach 58~62!! I played for about 30minutes, exit and boom, BLUE SCREEN.

Do you guys think there is anything wrong with my H100


----------



## Ukkooh

I ordered my H100 last monday and it was shipped on last thursday. Do you think I'll receive a fixed unit?


----------



## wlw wl

Try re-seating it, use new TIM, don't over tighten the screws.


----------



## WivZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Try re-seating it, use new TIM, don't over tighten the screws.


what happen if i over tighten the screws?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

My replacement H100 that I received the other day has started to buzz just like the other one.

I didn't get sent a pre-paid label like they said I would so now I have 2 H100s in front of me that are buzzing quite bad.

First one was batch number: 11479403

Replacement one is batch number: 12269403

Guess I need to ring them again and see if they can send another one and pick up the 2 faulty ones and see if that one is quiet or give me a refund so I can get a cooler that is quiet.

Really starting to lose my patience now.


----------



## gregoire

Same situation as VulgarDisplay88, maybe one step backward/further : I have written Corsair to inform there replacement unit is still noisy and there response was to tell me to call there support tech in order to fix my issue.

Maybe I have done something wrong and that would help fix MY problem... I'll give it a try on monday...


----------



## acidkhmer

Hi all,

I've tried an adv.rma since 10 days and it was a mess to have a result!

Corsair contact me for an old on my visa, i never received the replacement and yesterday UPS was comed for taking the defect H100!
I refuse explaining the adv.rma process with UPS.

The result is after 10 days, more than 20 mails + phones calls, corsair have problem making the old on my account and just discover it, i'don' understand why some users have an adv.rma directly and some others must suffering with the support.

I've just send another mail explaining one more times the situation:

Hi,

After 10 days, and more than 20 mails sending and reply + phones calls, i gave up for about this adv.RMA. I 've never seen a mess procedure support like yours.

Some users received Advanced RMA automatiqualy, some may ask for, some have a old on their card, others nothing.

I don't understand why i'm fighting with the corsair support and UPS for a an officialy defect series product and other people have a VIP treatment, a one shoot advanced exchange + a corsair gift "vengeance headset".

If all corsair RMA are this hard for users and noticely for users who have difficulty unederstanding/speaking english, my choice is going next time to another brand.

And Yes my card is decline, after a 600$ obsidian 800d+ ram memory, ram memory cooler + hydro h100 unusable noisy series my account is maybe a little bankrupt for this month!

"sorry i didn't plan to have more money for defect product exhange"

Best Regards,
Mr ...


----------



## SaucedtC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> Hey guys. I had post before this telling that my temp with H100 is around 33~38 while idle and 45~53 while playing Diablo 3.
> Some people told me its normsl but I kinda not happy with that.
> I'm using Asus Sabertooth z77, and today I tried to change to Advance mode from normal mode in BIOS, and the temp is kinda high.. idle ~43 and when I tried playing Diablo 3, the temp reach 58~62!! I played for about 30minutes, exit and boom, BLUE SCREEN.
> Do you guys think there is anything wrong with my H100


It could be a number of things. My H100 is idling at 29-33 in my 600T case with the stock fans in the intake config. I also have the pump on max (3 lights) but connected the fans on my fan controller so I can have my PC quiet but the pump on max performance. Also get some thermal paste from your local electronic store and make sure there is an even layer of it connected with your H100 and your CPU. Thats just my hypotheses. If you dont wanna go through that trouble id honestly just call Corsair and RMA. Hope that answers your question about if something was wrong with your H100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> I ordered my H100 last monday and it was shipped on last thursday. Do you think I'll receive a fixed unit?


You wont know until you plug it in and turn your system on. You might get lucky and get a silent one.


----------



## salle

WIVZ

You shouldn`t get a BSOD from 62C, also check if both of your fans on the H100 are working (mine didn`t) on my third unit.

If you haven`t been into some overclocking try wlw wl:s advice, otherwise RMA.

Didn`t you make your own adapter(s), check your rpm:s to.


----------



## theonedub

Your chances of getting good customer service from Corsair in regards to this is about as good as your chances of getting a quiet pump- complete crapshoot.


----------



## acidkhmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> what happen if i over tighten the screws?


Hi









You can have problem with the motor: vibration, sound issue.

The best result for me is tighten the screw with hands until stop and make 1/4 turn with a srewdriver


----------



## acidkhmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salle*
> 
> WIVZ
> You shouldn`t get a BSOD from 62C, also check if both of your fans on the H100 are working (mine didn`t) on my third unit.
> If you haven`t been into some overclocking try wlw wl:s advice, otherwise RMA.
> Didn`t you make your own adapter(s), check your rpm:s to.


Right,

when testing at my works, BSOD/reboot cpu overheat issue is coming when temperature 80C >< 90c is reached

Do you have the stock intel cooler for testing?


----------



## acidkhmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> Your chances of getting good customer service from Corsair in regards to this is about as good as your chances of getting a quiet pump- complete crapshoot.


I would not complain if it's a normal product failure but this pumps issue is offiicialy recognize by corsair, i think they can make an effort for repairing/change the faulty series, as fast, as simple as possible.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acidkhmer*
> 
> I would not complain if it's a normal product failure but this pumps issue is offiicialy recognize by corsair, i think they can make an effort for repairing/change the faulty series, as fast, as simple as possible.


Im agreeing that Corsair has a problem with consistency. I didnt have a smooth RMA either (I've made numerous posts about it in this thread) but I will probably live with the slight noise from my H100 to avoid going through the RMA process I followed with my H60. Best of luck to you- you'll probably need it.

OT: You should refrain from double and triple posting. You can use the multi-quote button to reply to multiple posts in a single reply.


----------



## TobyKing1982

WIV Z "what happen if i over tighten the screws?"

I would also suggest over-tightening the screws can damage your motherboard as well. Tighten to the point of resistance (head reaches the bottom) then give it another quarter of a turn, that should be enough.


----------



## acidkhmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> Im agreeing that Corsair has a problem with consistency. I didnt have a smooth RMA either (I've made numerous posts about it in this thread) but I will probably live with the slight noise from my H100 to avoid going through the RMA process I followed with my H60. Best of luck to you- you'll probably need it.
> OT: You should refrain from double and triple posting. You can use the multi-quote button to reply to multiple posts in a single reply.


Thank you for the luky force









Just see the "multi" fonction, very practical !


----------



## panduhz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acidkhmer*
> 
> I don't understand why i'm fighting with the corsair support and UPS for a an officialy defect series product and other people have a VIP treatment, a one shoot advanced exchange + a corsair gift "vengeance headset".


Hardly got special treatment. The guy must've gone through 4+ H100's until he got one that worked quietly.


----------



## TobyKing1982

I have done one RMA with Corsair and I received a good, quiet H100. Perhaps we should give them the benefit of the doubt, we all make mistakes. The fact they are scouring the forums shows they care about their products and their customer service. I have known other companies that deny product problems to the bitter end. Besides I can understand how the issue passed qualit control, the H100 must have always been installed in the same way in the factory and they always passed.

I have a Corsair 1000w PSU and I have never had problems, top product, and I have had Corsair memory too and never a problem with that either.

We can see they are trying to resolve the problem with the H100. When it comes to RMA, obviously each and every country has it's laws regarding replacements making it difficult for Corsair to have a identical solution for everyone.

One thing I think Corsair could improve upon is the service to people who have had extensive problems with replacements. Corsair take their numbers and call them, ensure they are getting the very latest replacement and call them again after the delivery to ensure they have got a good replacement. Also I would add, make sure customers are getting adequate emails regarding the status of their RMA's. I didn't get a call from UPS informing me of a pick up date (maybe their end), nor did I get a update of delivery of my replacement or consignment number.


----------



## Faithh

Ive RMA'ed the corsair H100. Im pretty confused about it. My pump is running at 2130 RPM but you still can hear it running, but the ratling/grinding noise isnt there anymore. The fans are spinning extremly fast and 1st and 3rd profile, it doesnt run lower in 1st profile. So I just switched the stock fans with corsair SP120 with a voltage dropper which was included in the package of SP120 Corsair.


----------



## gregoire

Good new : my "fixed" H100 don't grind anymore.
Bad new : the H100 is really noisy, more or less like a fan at it max : is that normal for a pump ?
I have a bitfenix 230mm, one noiseblocker 120mm and two Noctua NF-F12 all at there lowest speed and with my ears I don't hear anything from my PC if I just power down the pump a small lapse ot time, but as soon as I power it up my PC is way too loud.


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Hi guys,
I've been trying to contact Corsair regarding some assistance with my replacement H100 but am yet to receive a response. This H100 saga has been going on for a little while, but in short:

- I received the replacement H100 through an Advance RMA process (went relatively smoothly although did require about 6 email exchanges and 2 phone calls. Seeing as it was an international RMA, I was still very pleased with their service)

- Plugged it in and I can still hear a rattle/grind noise (it's much quieter than my previous H100 though). The noise can be heard through the case (Corsair Obsidian 550D) and often on top of the fan noise.

What I'm trying to work out is, what sort of noise/how much noise should the H100 be producing under regular operation? Should it be dead silent or is it fair to expect some pump noise from outside of the case (this is disregarding fan noise as I realise this is a different issue)?

I tried having a look on Youtube but wasn't able to pin point a video which gave me this exact answer. The main reason I'm trying to work this out is to determine whether I should pursue them for another replacement or not.

Thanks


----------



## RP3X

Just a quick question I got an email saying Corsair have tagged my item for collection and UPS will contact me in 4-5 days time to arrange a collection.

I thought we were suppose to send it to them and pay for the postage cost or shall I just wait for UPS to collect from my address and hopefully email me ?


----------



## molleh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RP3X*
> 
> Just a quick question I got an email saying Corsair have tagged my item for collection and UPS will contact me in 4-5 days time to arrange a collection.
> I thought we were suppose to send it to them and pay for the postage cost or shall I just wait for UPS to collect from my address and hopefully email me ?


They pay shipping for RMAs.


----------



## wlw wl

Well not really.

Normal RMA - you pay for the shipping of the item to them, they pay for the return.
You can ask them to cover it and they will in some cases, then you get a pre-paid shipping label from them.
Third option is advance RMA, where they put a hold on your credit card for the amount equal to the value of the new H80/H100, send that new unit to you first, and then you return the faulty one when you have the replacement.

To those of you who had the units replaced - let the new unit run for a couple of hours, maybe a day or two. Sometimes the air in the system, dispersed during transport, needs to be removed (or rather moved) and when there's air in the coolant, the pump will be noisy. The same happens in custom water cooling, ut has to run for some time to get the air out, until then the pump is noisy due to the air bubbles of various sizes.


----------



## RP3X

thx guys very helpful advise, seems they let me print a return slip so put that on the front of the box and hopefully get the email confirming they are collecting from myself.

I may let it run 1-2 days to clear the air and hopefully its nice an silent !


----------



## ehow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> To those of you who had the units replaced - let the new unit run for a couple of hours, maybe a day or two. Sometimes the air in the system, dispersed during transport, needs to be removed (or rather moved) and when there's air in the coolant, the pump will be noisy. The same happens in custom water cooling, ut has to run for some time to get the air out, until then the pump is noisy due to the air bubbles of various sizes.


You are right on this and am finally happy with my replacement. After a week or two my H100 is now considered complete silence or as silence as when I had it running with the adapter. My advance rma was rather quick, just not happy with how they handled the whole process, no email no phone calls I had to follow up with them the whole time..


----------



## ekoo

Yep, mine is quite silent after a week+, it's very nice.


----------



## RP3X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehow*
> 
> You are right on this and am finally happy with my replacement. After a week or two my H100 is now considered complete silence or as silence as when I had it running with the adapter. My advance rma was rather quick, just not happy with how they handled the whole process, no email no phone calls I had to follow up with them the whole time..


this is my only worry also, they quoted 4-5 working days before ups will get in touch with me about collection, so ive gone ahead and pre packed the box and put the printed out label already on the front just in case ups come knocking !

Did you not get any email or anything from corsair ?

Also did they drop off a new one and collect the faulty at same time if I can ask please ?


----------



## ehow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RP3X*
> 
> this is my only worry also, they quoted 4-5 working days before ups will get in touch with me about collection, so ive gone ahead and pre packed the box and put the printed out label already on the front just in case ups come knocking !
> Did you not get any email or anything from corsair ?
> Also did they drop off a new one and collect the faulty at same time if I can ask please ?


Nope, nada, no emails or no phone calls, I had to call them email them from start to finish. A simple email follow-up or a phone call would have been a much better service and overall experience.. so I wouldn't expect anything from them other than "it will happen sometime" in the process. As reputable as Corsair, why do they leave a bad taste to their brand name with a "basic customer service?" That's beyond me. Any company with no or poor customer service will always remembered and affect their creditability no matter how good their products are.


----------



## wlw wl

Some thoughts of me reading the law. That's the law in mu country, yours may be different.

Phrase for today: "nonconformity of goods with the contract". If the pump noise meant that the unit did not conform with the contract, the seller would be obliged to replace the unit with one that does not make the rattle, at no costs to the buyer whatsoever. So no paying for the shipment etc. Interesting is that the fact of the goods having a flaw was know to the manufacturer but not acted upon for quite some months. Based on this, the noisy units have to be replaced without any costs to the client, because warranty and nonconformity are two different worlds. And that's the law, dude.
However, if you choose the warranty over nonconformity, i.e. you RMA directly to Corsair, not the seller you bought it from, you lose all those rights.

Problem: the Hydro series coolers aren't advertised as quiet coolers. They scream "cooling performance" all over the place, but they only state vaguely "a total noise level that's lower than most stock CPU fans". BUT, if your seller does advertise them as such (you don't have to check the manufacturer's website, because you don't buy from them), then it would in fact be nonconformity of goods with the contract. Is your law that nice too?


----------



## TobyKing1982

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Some thoughts of me reading the law. That's the law in mu country, yours may be different.
> Phrase for today: "nonconformity of goods with the contract". If the pump noise meant that the unit did not conform with the contract, the seller would be obliged to replace the unit with one that does not make the rattle, at no costs to the buyer whatsoever. So no paying for the shipment etc. Interesting is that the fact of the goods having a flaw was know to the manufacturer but not acted upon for quite some months. Based on this, the noisy units have to be replaced without any costs to the client, because warranty and nonconformity are two different worlds. And that's the law, dude.
> However, if you choose the warranty over nonconformity, i.e. you RMA directly to Corsair, not the seller you bought it from, you lose all those rights.
> Problem: the Hydro series coolers aren't advertised as quiet coolers. They scream "cooling performance" all over the place, but they only state vaguely "a total noise level that's lower than most stock CPU fans". BUT, if your seller does advertise them as such (you don't have to check the manufacturer's website, because you don't buy from them), then it would in fact be nonconformity of goods with the contract. Is your law that nice too?


I'm guessing it would be the same for all EU countries.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

On the phone to Corsair now. Trying to get them to collect the 2 faulty units I have and send out another one. Been on the phone 25 minutes so far









EDIT:

Apparently the supervisor that I need to talk to is on the phone so I've left my number and now I have to wait until he gets back to me









2ND EDIT:

Just had them call back and they have arranged 2 call tags. 1 for the original replacement unit from SpecialTech and another one for the "fixed" unit that Corsair sent.

Also they're sending another "fixed" unit.

If that one has any problems then I'm gonna flip.


----------



## RP3X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehow*
> 
> Nope, nada, no emails or no phone calls, I had to call them email them from start to finish. A simple email follow-up or a phone call would have been a much better service and overall experience.. so I wouldn't expect anything from them other than "it will happen sometime" in the process. As reputable as Corsair, why do they leave a bad taste to their brand name with a "basic customer service?" That's beyond me. Any company with no or poor customer service will always remembered and affect their creditability no matter how good their products are.


That is poor customer service indeed, I will wait till thursday and if I have not heard from Corsair ill fire off an email....

Either way ill post back here and let u know how it went !


----------



## kennyparker1337

Mine has the grinding noise too. I thought it was just me. The first one I got was unbearable. I returned it and got another that the noise was a little less, but I didn't want to hassle with another replacement since I wear headphones.

But seeing that Corsair has identified and fixed the problem, I would love to get a quite H100.


----------



## RP3X

Still according to the last few pages it seems people are getting replacement parts which are a hit or miss, but as its been mentioned its a good idea to give it a few days to settle down and let the air out of the pump.... then it seems to get more silent.

Am wondering if most guys just installed it and then said its still noisy and said corsair aint fixed anything so some are just going thru multiple RMAs of there H100s.

Perhaps Corsair can test this statement above, it would surely save them a lots of money in Customer Service issues and RMA processes that are not required and save alot of time.

They could easily print a note or email instructions suggesting to let it run for 3 days and then check noise levels etc


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

My "fixed" unit has been running for just over 120 hours straight and it's still noisy.

I've also ran it for 12 hours on its side with no change in noise and also shaken it and flicked tubes etc.


----------



## psypher05

I'm actually new here, but i have a question already.

Well i have
Motherboard Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Video Card EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card
Case Cooler Master Elite 430 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply Corsair 750W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
CPU Intel Core i7-2600K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor

do you think I have enough power/space for Corsair H100? this is the first time I made a custom desktop. sorry for a kinda newb question

Or it is better if i buy the Corsair H80?


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> My "fixed" unit has been running for just over 120 hours straight and it's still noisy.
> I've also ran it for 12 hours on its side with no change in noise and also shaken it and flicked tubes etc.


Hi Vulgar,
Is that your third unit? I've arranged for another replacement (my third H100 unit) to be sent today morning as my initial replacement is still making noises. It should get to me by this Friday and hopefully, it runs fine!

Also wlw wl, my friend ended up receiving the voltage dropper and it works well on H80







Thanks for that!

EDIT: Just saw your previous post - nevermind! Hope your new one works out fine







!


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigDirtyNoob*
> 
> Hi Vulgar,
> Is that your third unit? I've arranged for another replacement (my third H100 unit) to be sent today morning as my initial replacement is still making noises. It should get to me by this Friday and hopefully, it runs fine!
> Also wlw wl, my friend ended up receiving the voltage dropper and it works well on H80
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for that!
> EDIT: Just saw your previous post - nevermind! Hope your new one works out fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


When the new one turns up it'll be my 4th. Hopefully we'll both get perfect units


----------



## Richiie

@psypher05.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1261110/would-a-corsair-h100-fit-in-a-cooler-master-elite-430-black-case#post_17313900


----------



## WALSRU

Just assembled my new build and wondered how I'm getting an HDD noise with an SSD boot drive? Great, just found this thread...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















After some debating I was on the fence about a fan controller so I went ahead and ordered the Lamptron Touch. If I back this down to 90% speed on the pump most units are silent right?


----------



## Snipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snipes*
> 
> Thought I would add my experience of the RMA process to date:
> I received the stock reply to my first email asking for an advanced RMA after two days (was around 4th July so holiday). As I need an advanced RMA I sent another email asking for an advanced RMA and I got a response yesterday that someone from their team would be in contact to take the hold on my card.
> I received the UPS email yesterday but to date no telephone call from Corsair to arrange the hold and delivery.
> Have to say that as this is my first RMA I'm a little confused as to what is happening and if I need to do anything! Its not clear if the UPS email refers to when it was a standard RMA and if I am going to get another one for the advanced or not? [Should do, well I did].
> Also for the advanced I assume they are picking up the tab for the shipping still but can someone confirm this? [Answer is yes].
> Edit: typo


I ended up calling Corsair to arrange the hold on my card and I received my replacement last week (from Hong Kong) and installed it over the weekend, pump is silent BUT one day in the fan controller has failed and one of the fans runs at 100% all of the time. Tried to reset as per instructions posted on the support website but it is well and truly gone. Fantastic.

Luckily I already have a fan controller so hooked it up to that, which is better overall IMO but still highlights how shoddy this product is. Goes to show what outsourcing can do for you. If I were Corsair I'd be having some harsh words with CooIit.

Others have reported various experiences of the RMA process and I have to say it wasn't the smoothest for me either - I had to contact Corsair several times, once to arrange the hold and a couple more times for information that should have just been made available to me e.g. shipping tracking numbers.

On the plus side every time I called Corsair their customer service reps were very good, just a shame I had to call them in the first place.


----------



## wlw wl

WALSRU - About right, you'd need to find the sweet spot yourself. Whether it's 85% or 95% - nobody knows, each unit is different.


----------



## WALSRU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> WALSRU - About right, you'd need to find the sweet spot yourself. Whether it's 85% or 95% - nobody knows, each unit is different.


Good deal. I'm going to plug the molex into the fan controller by a 3 pin adapter as well.

wlw wl - you are an awesome dude for all the research and help you've given to us board members on the subject. When I first started reading the threads I was pretty horrified the problem was either deal with it or rma, but this thread gave me some things to try. Good lookin out!


----------



## wlw wl

My pleasure


----------



## Zoltanar

For people with the grinding noise issue that don't wanna bother with the whole RMA process, i can atest that one of these adapters that darylrese also got works well,
I now have the H100 plugged into my 600T fan controller and everything is so quiet and peaceful!

Link, £2.27 posted from the UK



It arrived within one day from dispatch for me (I live in London) and delivery only cost £0.90!


----------



## wlw wl

Keep na eye on the pump's RPM, these fan controller tend to die suddenly.


----------



## Zoltanar

Yes, I've heard this but the case has been with me for a few months now so I'm not very worried. I plan on buying a proper fan controller regardless.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Had 2 emails earlier with UPS returns request reference numbers in them.

Looks like they're getting picked up sometime this week.

BUT also received an email saying that they're not going to be in stock until 31/07/12









Just my luck


----------



## RP3X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Had 2 emails earlier with UPS returns request reference numbers in them.
> Looks like they're getting picked up sometime this week.
> BUT also received an email saying that they're not going to be in stock until 31/07/12
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just my luck


Yeah had an email today also saying ups pick up tracking number, but no mention of replacement.... or exact date of collection, apparantly that will come later on with the tracking info.

just my luck also with them being out of stock also !

mind u im just considering selling it while its brand new and sealed especially if its a 50/50 chance of it being noiseless.


----------



## captinkirk

Got my replacement H80 today, and guess what...............silence!
It's been running for around 5-6hrs now so could still fail, but I have faith, the lot number is 12279402.
The only problem I've got is UPS never contacted me & told me they were dropping off the H80, so I was out & the faulty unit was still in my rig & the Mrs didn't know they were supposed to pick up the old one.
Has anyone had this problem? I don't have any contact for UPS regarding this to arrange another pick up, anyone got any clues or any of the Corsair guys got advice for me?


----------



## devnickle

Thank You!!

Just built an adapter from your instructions. No more
annoying grinding noises from my brand new H80!
I was NOT a happy camper. Now I can enjoy my cooler!
My temps only went up 1 degree C!

Thanks again!


----------



## Caelen

Another very happy user here, fix dropped my rpm from 2160 to about 1960 which was enough to quieten it.

Thanks very much


----------



## gregoire

How "silent" could the pump of the H100 be ?


----------



## RP3X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zoltanar*
> 
> For people with the grinding noise issue that don't wanna bother with the whole RMA process, i can atest that one of these adapters that darylrese also got works well,
> I now have the H100 plugged into my 600T fan controller and everything is so quiet and peaceful!
> Link, £2.27 posted from the UK
> 
> It arrived within one day from dispatch for me (I live in London) and delivery only cost £0.90!


I think one could buy this and put it into the mobos 3 pin header, and then set the bios to run on silent operation or use speedfan to control that power...

but thx nice little cable and cheap


----------



## wlw wl

devnickle, Caelen -









gregoire - well, just silent. Mine with the adapter could not be heard even when it was the only thing plugged into the PSU. Just about no noise at all. Once the MB and HDDs and all the rest were connected, it could not be heard at all.

RP3X - yes, that's the first method that's been used on noisy units, either with a motherboard fan header or an additional fan controller. It's also mentioned in the OP.


----------



## gregoire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> gregoire - well, just silent. Mine with the adapter could not be heard even when it was the only thing plugged into the PSU. Just about no noise at all. Once the MB and HDDs and all the rest were connected, it could not be heard at all.


OoO then I have to wait for the tech in the USA to open and give then a call as Corsair suggested to fix my noise issue.
Thank you for the info


----------



## WALSRU

After a few days of my new rig running the noise went down dramatically. I can still hear a little bit of that clicking if I open the case door and put my head down there but in my chair I wasn't hearing it. I'll still connect it to the fan controller but this is progress anyway.


----------



## gregoire

After 20 minutes on the phone with Corsair they proposed a second RMA, but they don't have any H100 in stock anymore so I have to wait...


----------



## ice-dragoon25

Finally had the ups prepaid shipping label, just got to wait for the new h100 to arrive. I'm wondering, when they take a hold on a credit card, are they suppose to charge me the amount right away or only after the two weeks has passed and they didn't received my older unit? cause right now, i have a +100$ bill from corsair on my credit card, and still i dont have ups tracking number and its was 2 days ago.


----------



## SaucedtC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ice-dragoon25*
> 
> Finally had the ups prepaid shipping label, just got to wait for the new h100 to arrive. I'm wondering, when they take a hold on a credit card, are they suppose to charge me the amount right away or only after the two weeks has passed and they didn't received my older unit? cause right now, i have a +100$ bill from corsair on my credit card, and still i dont have ups tracking number and its was 2 days ago.


Its a temporary hold. It wont go through 100% til after the 2 weeks they havnt received your defective unit.

I also got my email for my advance replacement









"At your request we have processed your RMA as an Advance Replacement, using your credit/debit card to obtain a temporary holding fee in the amount of $126.00 until your returning part is received. We allow 2 weeks for the return of your defective unit before we process a complete charge on your credit card."


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just got back from the beach and there was an H100 waiting for me when I got back even though they said they were out of stock









Unfortunately they left it with the woman next door because I was out so they couldn't collect the 2 faulty ones that I have here.

Going to ring them tomorrow and arrange collection for a day when I'm in.

New H100 is silent (just like the previous one was before the buzzing started) so I'm going to leave it on constant until Monday and see if the buzzing rears his ugly head AGAIN!!!

Also I bought one of those cables a few posts up just in case because I'm not going through another RMA.


----------



## bbonator

Does anyone happen to know how long does it take for the defective unit sent by ups prepaid label to arrive its destination? Hope it doesn't take that long since i had to ship it from a foreign country


----------



## cayers71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cayers71*
> 
> I am stoked to see that the issue has been identified and fixed! I have been living with a noisy H80 for many months now, but not that Corsair didn't try to fix it...in fact they shipped me 3 RMA replacments. All of the units produced the same grindign noise, but I have a Corsair 850 watt PSU, which is probably the culprit.
> I just emailed the email address provided by CorsairGeorge...will keep all posted on the outcome. i am looking forward to a silent PC!


**UPDATE** So I contacted Corsair at the email address provided by Corsair George...got a reply the next day with a shipping label and an RMA number. I then got another email stating that a new H80 was being shipped advance (no credit card required), and that they were throwing in the Vengeance 1100 gaming headset for my inconvenience. New unit arrived today, popped it in and the verdict is - its quiet!!!! I only have about 2.5 hours on it so far, but it is much quieter than my last 3 units (yes, 3 RMAs previously) so it seems that the defect was fixed in this batch. Batch number is 12279~. By the way, I have a Corsair AX850 PSU.

So far so good. I can confirm (as have others) that the specific RMA process described by CorsairGeorge will get you a replacement cooler that is free from the cavitation defect. In my case it took 5 months to fix, but at least my PC is now....quiet.

GL to the rest of you.


----------



## cayers71

My previous RMAs got to them within a few days (inside the US), but it took another few days for Corsair to acknowledge the receipt of the hardware.


----------



## cayers71

Did either of you use the email address provided by CorsairGeorge to execute your RMAs? Like you, I previously had a hold placed on my CC for advance replacement, but this time when I used the email address they did not ask me for a CC...just shipped the replacement unit.

For those considering RMA, you may have a fee-free experience by following CorsairGeorge's RMA instructions in this thread.


----------



## ice-dragoon25

My experience so far was not top notch.

About 1 month ago, i ask for a RMA for a analog headset from Corsair which was approved, but i didn't send it right away as I was going throught this thread and i wanted to ship both unit in the same package if i could.

So i've sent my first email the 5 july asking for an *advanced* rma for the h100 and i ask them if they could put my analog headset in the same RMA and stil, have the free shipping (as part of the advanced rma)

Then they said on July 7 that they could, that i just have to send them the RMA number of the headset which i did the same day

On july 10, they send me a message saying *they will contact me* for shipping the h100 and my analog headset with a hold on my credit card. They also said a follow up message should be sent soon

On july 11, they send me a prepaid ups label, but on it, its only specified the h100 and not my headset. So on the same day i sent them a message saying they approved of paying for the h100 and the headset shipping and that they should send me a prepaid shipping label which include the headset

On July 13, they send me a message saying they update their RMA for both the h100 and the headset (was not done before? anyway) and saying that i must pay the shipping for Corsair California. Same day i sent them a message saying this was an advance RMA and they approved of paying shipping for both units.

On july 13, they send me a message saying they were sorry and they didn't understood well, and they should be sending me a ups prepaid shipping label in the 1-2 days

On july 19, I sent them a message saying i didn't received any Ups message of whatever, and i repeat what was approved earlier and all.

On july 23, they send me a message saying they sent me a ups prepaid label on July 11

On july 24, i sent them a message copying a lot of their earlier message and all. I've sent my first message 2 weeks earlier and still nothing is going on. One of their rep send me (finally!) a ups prepaid label with both unit and he said *I* must contact Corsair for having them to send me the h100 and the headset. So i did it (not having the choice, hopefully i could use skype). The girl on the phone said I should be awaiting the tracking number soon.

I still dont have the tracking number and i just dont like the fact that they charged me +200$ and dont send me as soon as possible a tracking number.

Phew thats it


----------



## RP3X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Just got back from the beach and there was an H100 waiting for me when I got back even though they said they were out of stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately they left it with the woman next door because I was out so they couldn't collect the 2 faulty ones that I have here.
> Going to ring them tomorrow and arrange collection for a day when I'm in.
> New H100 is silent (just like the previous one was before the buzzing started) so I'm going to leave it on constant until Monday and see if the buzzing rears his ugly head AGAIN!!!
> Also I bought one of those cables a few posts up just in case because I'm not going through another RMA.


Yeah makes no sense I left for work and ups turned up 5 minutes later... luckily I told my mum to give the faulty unit !

UPS website did not even say they were coming round today.....

I did not get any new unit dropped off though









I think rather then waste money and time selling the new unit I may just try that adapter and give it a go since its so cheap...


----------



## SoterioN

Update (from awhile ago, probably mid -30s of this post): well, I finally installed my Lamptron Touch Fan Controller and my H100 is quiet now, like the day I got it. Going to stick with this for awhile, since I don't feel like playing the RMA game. My H100 didn't develop its noise until 6 months after I got it, so I don't want to grab a new one and then hold my breath to see if it really is fixed. This FC option seems to be working so going to stick with it. Temps are running fine sitting around 27c idle, 45c under load in BF3 w/full graphics (CPU is oc'd to 4.6 ghz). And things are quiet...yay


----------



## johnnyw

My H100 is rattler too but sadly i cant rma it, cant be completely without for weeks it takes to receive replacement in normal rma way. Corsair Advanced rma is useless too as you need credit card to do so which i dont own, surely not going to get one just becasue of this. Kinda stupid really as majority of companys handles advanced/onsite replacements on the way that courier brings new unit and takes faulty with him and no need to have credit card.

I think need to give a shot for these "fixes" and see if it gets any better.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> My H100 is rattler too but sadly i cant rma it, cant be completely without for weeks it takes to receive replacement in normal rma way. Corsair Advanced rma is useless too as you need credit card to do so which i dont own, surely not going to get one just becasue of this. Kinda stupid really as majority of companys handles advanced/onsite replacements on the way that courier brings new unit and takes faulty with him and no need to have credit card.
> I think need to give a shot for these "fixes" and see if it gets any better.


Email them at [email protected] with the subject line "Hydro Series Buzz" and include your name, phone number, shipping address, and email address. When I rang up to ask for an ADVANCED RMA they asked for my debit/credit card so I assume you can use either. Some people have been getting an ADVANCED RMA without asking for one and without giving a card.


----------



## johnnyw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Email them at [email protected] with the subject line "Hydro Series Buzz" and include your name, phone number, shipping address, and email address. When I rang up to ask for an ADVANCED RMA they asked for my debit/credit card so I assume you can use either. Some people have been getting an ADVANCED RMA without asking for one and without giving a card.


Allready tried to rma this while ago straight to corsair. I guess their policys can differ on region then, i live in Finland and it was basicly straight no no when asked if there is any othger possibility to get advanced than getting credit card.

Even submitted video about pump grinding for them where my real name and details was shown alongside with pump but it wasnt enough for them.


----------



## bbonator

Well i sent my defective unit back as soon as i got the prepaid label and now im getting "out of stock" responses from corsair when i ask for the new unit shipping. How in the hell if the failure rate is so low they dont have enough to replace them and stock their vendors? 1% or 2% failure should be nothing for them. Don't really trust them anymore


----------



## RP3X

I bet all Corsair owners just started to RMA it and caused the lack of stock lol


----------



## notafan

so here i am with my all new build pc.. but had i just seen this thread before buying that h80.. i got the noice from pump also..
if i buy an molex to 3 pin , can i put it into motherboard cpu fan and then control it via software?
and do i understand right that i take the molex from the pump that is in my psu now, and connect it with the molex to 3 pin and then to cpu fan in motherboard? just dont understand how this should work? what about the 3 pin that is in my cpu fan from the pump right now, what do i do what that then? and if this work why did they even do the molex to psu connect insted of just a 3 pin to cpu fan? im cunfused and sad about that damn noice..


----------



## wlw wl

_if i buy an molex to 3 pin , can i put it into motherboard cpu fan and then control it via software?_
Yes, if the motherboard's fan header is capable of that.

_and do i understand right that i take the molex from the pump that is in my psu now, and connect it with the molex to 3 pin and then to cpu fan in motherboard?_
Yes. Or rather to a chassis fan header.

_just dont understand how this should work?_
Just like you said - _put it into motherboard cpu fan and then control it via software_.

_what about the 3 pin that is in my cpu fan from the pump right now, what do i do what that then?_
You can leave it in the CPU_FAN header, and use another fan header to power the unit.

_and if this work why did they even do the molex to psu connect insted of just a 3 pin to cpu fan?_
Because of the power limitation of a fan header and power requirement of the fan controller part of the unit. More specifically to avoid a scenario where user connects 4 strong fans to the unit, and the combined current draw of the fans exceeds the fan header's rating and causes damage to the motherboard.
And the pump isn't supposed to be powered from a variable voltage source.


----------



## notafan

thx for the quick answer 

my motherboard is asus p8z77-v if that tell any thing about if it should work with the fix.. sry im not an pc expert rly my first time with an none stock cpu cooler.

if i connect 1 of my 3 pin fans to my chassis fan header on mb i can control it with asus fan xpert 2 that came with mb..
but i dont know if its diffrent with an pump?


----------



## SaucedtC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *notafan*
> 
> thx for the quick answer
> my motherboard is asus p8z77-v if that tell any thing about if it should work with the fix.. sry im not an pc expert rly my first time with an none stock cpu cooler.
> if i connect 1 of my 3 pin fans to my chassis fan header on mb i can control it with asus fan xpert 2 that came with mb..
> but i dont know if its diffrent with an pump?


Yes you can control it with Fan Xpert2. But know that with a custom setting you will need to load that profile everytime you reboot. Ive emailed ASUS and they said they dont have an update where you can change the default Fan Xpert2 profile.


----------



## notafan

are there any other software out there, that could do a better job?
i tryed download speedfan, but that program seems way to hard to get into for someone like me.


----------



## wlw wl

No software will work from the power up, the soonest you can do that is if you launch speedfan as a system service, but still it's not gonna work until the OS loads. A better way would be to set it manually in BIOS, if it allows that (mine does) to say 80% and then let the software tune that to 86% or 92% or whatever will be needed for your pump.


----------



## Ragsters

Just finished installing H80 and its louder than my 3- AP181s on High. I think I am going to return it and get an Antec 920.


----------



## K62-RIG

I can honestly say that my Antec 920 is so bloody quiet it's ridiculous. I have the 2 fans (xigmateks) and the pump running off 12v and it's still silent.


----------



## johnnyw

Its down to luck with Antec ones too, friend just bought 920 some weeks ago and had to get it replaced when pump made some annoying noises randomly.

Tho it was nothing compared to sound my H100 makes constantly, its like mix of angle grinder and chirping bird









Always been very happy with corsair produckts (psu & ram ) in overall but surely never gonna buy corsair cooling produckts again after this H100 disaster.


----------



## twitchyzero

i've read some of cosair george's comment and the initial post...can't bother to look through another 100+ pages

so is there an official fix for this issue yet from corsair? Not one where you have to compromise fan speed or do things to your psu and do silly things like place your case horizontally or other "mods"?

Are the new batches in retail circulation yet? Anyway to identify bad batches from serial number?


----------



## notafan

so i just tryed with the 4pin molex to 3 pin, but only thing happens was that pump runs at 900rpm and bios cant see my ch1 fan, same thing in windows no program can see that there is pluged an fan in ch1..

what am i doing wrong? i got the 3 pin that should go into cpu fan connect and then the molex to 3 pin into ch1 fan.. but not working.


----------



## gregoire

Corsair said they are shipping me a new pump with a "Corsair Vengeance 1100 headset to compensate all the inconvenience".

I declined there offer of the Vengeance 1100 as I really don't want to see any Corsair product anymore, I just wish I could have a silent PC with the new pump and "never" hear from Corsair again...

I just hope the third one will be fine.


----------



## JayWill411

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> i've read some of cosair george's comment and the initial post...can't bother to look through another 100+ pages
> so is there an official fix for this issue yet from corsair? Not one where you have to compromise fan speed or do things to your psu and do silly things like place your case horizontally or other "mods"?
> Are the new batches in retail circulation yet? Anyway to identify bad batches from serial number?


Yes they've identified the problem, have found a solution and have been manufacturing units that are free from the grinding pump noise. I don't know if any revised units have made it into retail circulation, but the best way to tell if it's an old or new unit is by the lot number. If the lot number starts with "1227" or higher, then it should be a new unit manufactured under the new process.


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregoire*
> 
> Corsair said they are shipping me a new pump with a "Corsair Vengeance 1100 headset to compensate all the inconvenience".
> I declined there offer of the Vengeance 1100 as I really don't want to see any Corsair product anymore, I just wish I could have a silent PC with the new pump and "never" hear from Corsair again...
> I just hope the third one will be fine.


I got my second replacement last Friday and it had been working perfectly fine until last night - that's when my H100 stopped working. The LED indicator turned off, the fans stopped spinning and yeah...the pump was completely dead. So just when I finally received a H100 which made no grinding noise, I get this... I've contacted Corsair and they're shipping out another one, but honestly, if there's anything wrong with the new one, I give up. I really appreciate Corsair's customer service/tech support in sending out these new units so promptly, but it's just becoming a huge hassle.


----------



## stn0092

So when would be a good time to order an H80 or H100? How long until these new ones make it out to stores' stocks?


----------



## panduhz

Is it just me or do these come with the noisiest fans in the world. 2600 RPM sounds like a vacuum. I will invest in a fan controller when I can afford to.

Ive had this H100 for about a month and the pump has managed to become louder than before. Ive tried to muffle the noise by putting the case under another separate table and then covering the front of the table so air ventilates only through the back towards the corner of the room. Temps went up 2C but noise level went down quite a bit.

@ wlw wl - Just wondering where you disappeared to.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *panduhz*
> 
> Is it just me or do these come with the noisiest fans in the world. 2600 RPM sounds like a vacuum. I will invest in a fan controller when I can afford to.
> Ive had this H100 for about a month and the pump has managed to become louder than before. Ive tried to muffle the noise by putting the case under another separate table and then covering the front of the table so air ventilates only through the back towards the corner of the room. Temps went up 2C but noise level went down quite a bit.
> @ wlw wl - Just wondering where you disappeared to.


RMA it, and hope for a new one that resolves the issue. That is pretty much all we can do at this point, while they may be annoying, the process works to a certain degree.


----------



## Remmi

Hi,
helped me to double connection diodes 1N4007 to 1N4007, in a row. Temperature is in order as Idle and Burn.
RPM - 1732
voltage - 11,4(5) V
Idle - 28C
Burn - 58C

At a voltage 11,7V and 1953 (2020) RPM, unfortunately droning sound issues.


----------



## Remmi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Use two diodes in series, you should get 1800 - 1900 RPM and it will be permanently silent.


Hi,
what diodes you used please, to achieve your speed 1800 - 1900 RPM ? I make two diodes in a row 1732 RMP with 11,4(5) V.
At speed and voltage 11,7V 1953 (2020) RPM pump hear it.
thx


----------



## panduhz

if you undervolt the pump, will that undervolt the fan headers on the H100 aswell?


----------



## dragonsamus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> _if i buy an molex to 3 pin , can i put it into motherboard cpu fan and then control it via software?_
> Yes, if the motherboard's fan header is capable of that.
> _and do i understand right that i take the molex from the pump that is in my psu now, and connect it with the molex to 3 pin and then to cpu fan in motherboard?_
> Yes. Or rather to a chassis fan header.
> _just dont understand how this should work?_
> Just like you said - _put it into motherboard cpu fan and then control it via software_.
> _what about the 3 pin that is in my cpu fan from the pump right now, what do i do what that then?_
> You can leave it in the CPU_FAN header, and use another fan header to power the unit.
> _and if this work why did they even do the molex to psu connect insted of just a 3 pin to cpu fan?_
> Because of the power limitation of a fan header and power requirement of the fan controller part of the unit. More specifically to avoid a scenario where user connects 4 strong fans to the unit, and the combined current draw of the fans exceeds the fan header's rating and causes damage to the motherboard.
> And the pump isn't supposed to be powered from a variable voltage source.


What if you connect the molex from the H100 pump to a molex adapter and attach that to the molex connector on the power supply? Would that reduce volts? Or is the only way to reduce volts to connect pump molex to molex adapter and then connect the three pin to motherboard?

I bought a new H100 with lot number 12###### and i connected it to molex adapter then to power supply thinking that would reduce volts. Please tell me which us the correct way. Thanks.


----------



## Remmi

fan i am involved in outside zalman regulation and manually regulate


----------



## wlw wl

panduhz - I'm on vacation, I'll be going through the PMs on the weekend, the remaining adapters will be sent tomorrow (I had to take the work with me, sorry, wife







)
And yes, undervolting the unit does undervolt the fans attached to it, but if the controller uses closed-loop feedback (it seems to me it does) then the speed shouldn't change (only the max speed would be lower).

stn0092 - good question, one that should be answered by George and announced

Remmi - if the pump initially runs at ~2100 RPM, one diode should bring it to about 1900 RPM. If it's at 2200 RPM (12,3V PSU), then two diodes would bring it down to about 1800 RPM. For the data you provided, you should try two 1N4007 in series and that would give you around 11,2V and >1700 RPM.

dragonsamus - _What if you connect the molex from the H100 pump to a molex adapter and attach that to the molex connector on the power supply?_ To what kind of a molex adapter? If you mean a diode adapter, then yes, that's the way to do it, connect it between the H80/H100 and the PSU.

Again, I'm on vacation so I won't be here frequently. If you have an urgent question, please direct it to PM and I will see an e-mail notification.


----------



## Mr-Mechraven

Hi all, im not sure if this will help anyone with this "pump noise issue" but......when my H60 started making "the noise" i went into my Mobo BIOs and told it to ignore the fan header and not monitor the rpm and so the noise stopped and never heard it again. Previously the same fan header was just on and monitoring rpm, but switching it over to IGNORE the sound from pump stopped. Now my Pump runs at 4400-4500 rpm no issue.

Like i say this might just be me being lucky , but if it helps someone else so be it.

On a side note , it's nice to see a Corsair Rep appear here and address the concerns of us customers, hats off to you sir !


----------



## dragonsamus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> panduhz - I'm on vacation, I'll be going through the PMs on the weekend, the remaining adapters will be sent tomorrow (I had to take the work with me, sorry, wife
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> And yes, undervolting the unit does undervolt the fans attached to it, but if the controller uses closed-loop feedback (it seems to me it does) then the speed shouldn't change (only the max speed would be lower).
> stn0092 - good question, one that should be answered by George and announced
> Remmi - if the pump initially runs at ~2100 RPM, one diode should bring it to about 1900 RPM. If it's at 2200 RPM (12,3V PSU), then two diodes would bring it down to about 1800 RPM. For the data you provided, you should try two 1N4007 in series and that would give you around 11,2V and >1700 RPM.
> dragonsamus - _What if you connect the molex from the H100 pump to a molex adapter and attach that to the molex connector on the power supply?_ To what kind of a molex adapter? If you mean a diode adapter, then yes, that's the way to do it, connect it between the H80/H100 and the PSU.
> Again, I'm on vacation so I won't be here frequently. If you have an urgent question, please direct it to PM and I will see an e-mail notification.


Thanks for responding.


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayWill411*
> 
> the best way to tell if it's an old or new unit is by the lot number. If the lot number starts with "1227" or higher, then it should be a new unit manufactured under the new process.


Source? I PM'd corsair george regarding this claim but he has yet to respond.


----------



## ChronosZ

Just thought I would report back.
Requested an advanced RMA through Corsair support. Received a replacement unit sent via UPS about a week later. Installed new unit and all appears to be running well. No ticking or strange noises coming from the replacement H100.

Overall a pretty good experience and I feel Corsair has done a decent job in addressing my issue over the defective H100 I had.

Kudos to Corsair and CorsairGeorge for doing right by their customers.


----------



## gregoire

I received my third H100 (1227...) and after the buble are "managed by the pump" the noise goes a little down, but it's still pulsing noise and produce exactly the same noise as the previous one.

Is there anything I can do, since Corsair George announced they "fixed" the problem one month ago I am in RMA process and removing and installing a new pump just take too much time :-(

Does anyone got any idea on what could be done against that pulsing noise (both when I connect it directly to the PSU and to my fan controller at any voltage) ?


----------



## wlw wl

Can you make a video and post it on youtube? I would like to hear that sound.


----------



## MeanBruce

Just throwing this in and thanking wlw_wl for the H100 build advice.


----------



## gregoire

Oops I have to ask Corsair for an apologize : when I powerdown my computer to put it on the table to film the noise that I have my pump was just silent (now I hear my four fans).

I have no idea why as I just powered if off and on again ???


----------



## Gahstly

I bought a molex to 3 pin adapter on ebay for $4, hooked it up to my mobo (Asus P8Z77-LE) and I controlled the pump with AI Suite II/ Fan Xpert2. I mapped it so the pump only goes up to around 1900 RPM under load and there is no grinding noise.


----------



## gregoire

I put back my computer under my desk and wouah : I don't hear any sound from it, my new setup with the new H100 (1227...) is tremendous and keep my CPU cool


----------



## NAWZ77

Is it save to buy a H100 now directly from Corsair cause i been holding of so i could get a good one due to all them horra stories i been reading about


----------



## twitchyzero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayWill411*
> 
> Yes they've identified the problem, have found a solution and have been manufacturing units that are free from the grinding pump noise. I don't know if any revised units have made it into retail circulation, but the best way to tell if it's an old or new unit is by the lot number. *If the lot number starts with "1227" or higher, then it should be a new unit manufactured under the new process*.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregoire*
> 
> I received *my third H100 (1227...) and after the buble are "managed by the pump" the noise goes a little down, but it's still pulsing noise and produce exactly the same noise as the previous one.*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NAWZ77*
> 
> Is it save to buy a H100 now directly from Corsair cause i been holding of so i could get a good one due to all them horra stories i been reading about


I've PM'd George from Corsair and still no response after a week...terrific.

It's safe to many of the H100 sold in stores/online will still be prone to the problems in this 100+ page thread.

It's bad enough the only decent closed-loop water cooling solution I can have with my case is the H100 so I urge Corsair to speak up now before losing loyal customers.


----------



## wlw wl

Is it really the only one?

What about Asetek 570 LX? It's basically the H70 block with H100 RAD. IT also uses the AS synchronous motor like H50 and H70 did. I'd go for that if you don't want custom loop.

Thermaltake Water 2.0 is also based on Asetek, for example the Water 2.0 Extreme. It's the Asetek WaterChill 2011C, I didn't get into details on how it differs from the 570 LX but I think it's worth looking into.
AFAIK it's cheaper than H100 and the pump is more durable IMO.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Is it really the only one?
> What about Asetek 570 LX? It's basically the H70 block with H100 RAD. IT also uses the AS synchronous motor like H50 and H70 did. I'd go for that if you don't want custom loop.
> Thermaltake Water 2.0 is also based on Asetek, for example the Water 2.0 Extreme. It's the Asetek WaterChill 2011C, I didn't get into details on how it differs from the 570 LX but I think it's worth looking into.
> AFAIK it's cheaper than H100 and the pump is more durable IMO.


Exactly, I was looking at the Thermaltake 2.0 Extreme, which is on sale at Microcenter for a lower price than the H100. I saw some excellent reviews on it as well.

Check out on NewEgg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106190&Tpk=Thermaltake%202.0%20Extreme

So far, I have been running my H100 for a few weeks 24 hours and it has been OK. Guess I lucked on a good one, I won't RMA unless something crazy happens which I hope is not any leaks.


----------



## JAM3S121

i just bought a h100 from a ocn user, never used and it was lot 12269403 i believe this is a fixed one can anyone confirm this is the lot for a fixed unit


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> i just bought a h100 from a ocn user, never used and it was lot 12269403 i believe this is a fixed one can anyone confirm this is the lot for a fixed unit


"1226" = 26th Week of 2012 = June 25, 2012 to July 1, 2012.

That is an extremely new unit and is most likely part of the fixed lot.


----------



## Garthilk

Can anyone with an H60 tell me what their pump RPM's are? I'm taking a survey of sorts.

So the other night my H60 started making the noise. The one that sounds like two old fashioned stop watches, or maybe an old HD constantly writing. Next morning the sound had stopped. The rest of the day the system was buggered. Regardless of what I was doing the system was bogged down, FPS 5, every game unplayable. Turned out pump RPMs were 0 and CPU temp was 96c.

Tried putting pump power to different sysfan spots but manually putting it to max RPM only got it to 8xx RPM. But on normal setting left it to zero regardless of where I put it.

Decided to throw on the stock 3770 cpu fan and get a new one from the reseller. Any thoughts?


----------



## wlw wl

Well first off, you shouldn't have variated the pump's speed. It should be run at constant speed regardless of the temperature.

H60 has the same pump that H80s and H100s do, it doesn't have the added logic for fan controller and Link stuff. Because of that missing logic, the H60 often reports its speed at twice the actual rate, so you'll see 3800 RPM while it's in fact running at 1900 RPM.

If the temp was so high, the motor is probably damaged. IC damage would be less likely because it's separated from the coolant. I very much doubt that you baked the Hall sensor, so I'd bet my money on blown winding. The magnets don't like high temps as well, but the winding damage is the most likely scenario IMO.


----------



## Sleaks

Sorry to go off topic a little, I was messaging wlw wl for a fix but have reached my two (???) daily message limit and would really like the fix for my H100. So wlw wl, when you get this, please can you email me at ajackroyd(at)gmail(dot)com
Thanks.


----------



## wlw wl

Done.

The 2PM/day limit is lifted when you reach 10 posts -- anti-spam measures.


----------



## armorfid

I had the rattling problem with an H80 from lot "1210". Contacted Corsair about 2 ½ weeks ago, specifying the "Hydro Series Buzz" problem and all. Spent about 2 hours on the phone with a guy with a thick Mexican accent from the RMA department in order to get an advanced replacement, because I don't have another cooler to temporarily replace it.

After spending an hour having an argument over the phone with a garbling UPS employee who hastily questioned me on why a package of that size is marked as having a value of $1.00, it finally arrived yesterday at my home in Eastern Canada. I unbox it; lot number says "1216", which slightly disappoints. Still hoping for the best, I set up a spare PSU, plug the "new" H80, and I hear that damn rattling noise. Thanks to the RMA dept, I now have to redo the whole process again.

Protips for Corsair:

Throw away or refurbish all units which have been manufactured before the problem was fixed.
Do NOT ship to Canada through UPS, use Purolator instead. UPS Ground took 12 business days to deliver my unit, while all previous deliveries I received from California via Purolator Ground took 6 business days at the very most. They cost less than UPS, and most deliveries are done in a "no questions asked" manner. Unlike UPS, they don't get pissy stating "customs regulations", and they don't try to rip off people with brokerage fees.
A live chat would be great, so the customer and representative can communicate in a proper manner that does not require either participant to repeat a misunderstood statement every 2 minutes.


----------



## Scouten

Great as i also just got a 1216 and i cant try it until sunday morning well now i am kinda bummed. still have to try it though.

Edit: on my rig the Pumps for my H80 make Zero Noise at least so far( running for 2 hours @ 2000-2100rpm) the fans are some of the loudest i have heard but keeping them at level one of the pump keep my temps low and are quieter than my two antec tricools that the thing replaced . max temp are @ 4Ghz with hyper threading 71º in Prime 95 under blend and Small FFT my idle is 40º

only issue is that my antec 1200 was not built for this kind of cooler and was a real pain to install forcing me to remove two of my exhaust fans.


----------



## FloppyNL

Mail from Poland!

But sadly, it didn't make the noise go away







Looks like I will have to deal with Corsair's RMA service which apparently can be either real good or real annoying. Wish I could use the selective RMA service, but I don't have a creditcard so meh..

Edit: Real odd though, hitting the hoses will make the noise go away for a while..


----------



## insertacoolname

Sent my h60 off some days ago, I was surprised that corsair sent a UPS guy to pick it up from my house since many of you are talking about getting labels and shipping it off, this might be because there is only 1 UPS station in all of Norway though and getting customers to drop them off would be ridiculous. Corsair got the cooler two days ago and I am still waiting for the replacement, if this works Corsair has won my vote when it comes to customer service.


----------



## stn0092

Received and installed my H80 on my 3930K with the stock paste two nights ago. Lot 1216. The fans are connected directly to the PSU and running at full speed. There is no noticeable noise coming from the block so it's looking good so far. How distinct is this rattling or grinding noise suppose to be?

Temps are good, idling at 35-38°C. At stock clocks, P95 small FFTs take it up to 53-55°C.

*EDIT*: I'm using a pair of Scythe S-Flex SFF21G fans instead of the included stock fans.


----------



## wlw wl

With the stock fans running at full blast, I don't think the pump noise would bother you


----------



## stn0092

I'm actually using two Scythe S-Flex SFF21G fans I've had stored away for a while. I'll edit my previous post to include that fact.

I don't know how loud the stock Corsair fans are, but the pair I'm using are already too loud for my tastes...or hearing rather.







Even so, I can't hear anything from the pump even when I put my ear next to it.


----------



## wlw wl

Well then just enjoy it instead of looking for problems


----------



## MeanBruce

Had to post this for you guys, in this video review, the H100 "terrible grinding sound" goes off at 04:00 minutes into the video, and he smacks it with a ruler to quiet it down, I immediately thought of wlw_wl.









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bl91wDnsvbI&list=UU_SN80_V2GymyCWM2oTYTeg&index=1&feature=plcp


----------



## salle

Hi folks!

I have a question that´s confusing me!

It`s about the fans attached to the radiator, the direction.
My fans are working as intakes, blowing air in to my case.

Do you think that it would be better having them as exhaust, cause according to Corsair one of their guides says intake is better and the other guide says exhaust is better, help me out here folks.


----------



## wlw wl

Hahaha that's golden!








Great PR for Corsair








Maybe I should send him a handful of the adapters


----------



## AerieAngel

Just contacted Corsair about an RMA for my H100 cooler with the buzzing/grinding noise. They don't have any brand new ones (1226 or 1227) in at the moment (back ordered), but they should by the 21st or so. They were extremely nice on the phone and everything went smoothly. I was assured that I would receive one of the new stock ones because of the "buzzing issue" I was having. I didn't even ask to receive one of the newer stock numbered ones. They told me that they are making sure I get one of the new ones. They offered the advanced RMA, but not until they have stock to send out. They said to call back later this week with my newly issues RMA number to confirm stock and to get an advanced RMA. So far very impressed with level of service.


----------



## wlw wl

Hold your breath until you actually get a working, non-rattling unit


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Hold your breath until you actually get a working, non-rattling unit


It is my understanding that 1226 and 1227 releases do not have the rattling issue. At least I have not seen a report of one that does. Am I correct?


----------



## wlw wl

Well that's our assumption, but it hasn't been officially confirmed.

I have, I think I have seen more than one case where the unit, replaced via the "Selective RMA", is/was still faulty. Some of those were definitely on my PMs, but you will find some in the thread if you wish to search.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> ...I think I have seen more than one case where the unit, replaced via the "Selective RMA", is/was still faulty. Some of those were definitely on my PMs, but you will find some in the thread if you wish to search.


I saw some of those in the thread. (I've read al 108 pages), but seemed to be ones that were replaced with releases prior to 1226 and 1227. The few postings about those models have seemed to be ok so far. I suppose we will see with time though. As always I'll keep everyone updated.

Also, is anyone interested in a video of the grinding issue? I'd be happy to put together one or answer any questions anyone may have. I've been pretty happy with Corsair overall though. My RAM, case, flash drives, and fans have all been the best I have ever used. The Corsair 600t is the best case I've ever done a build in. The RAM speaks for itself as you all know. The fans are incredible and actually perform to their specs unlike almost every other fan on the market. The flash drives are the fastest read and write speed drives in their category though they do have some boot issues if you are using them for live linux installs and such. They have held up to the washer (not the dryer though). I really hope Corsair lives up to the awesomeness that I have experienced with them.


----------



## stn0092

My overclocking temperatures are good with my H80 unit so far.


----------



## panduhz

tried to find the noisy fan culprit. out of the 8 fans (all 120mm).. the two from corsair were the noisiest. the other fans were from coolermaster and then some stock raidmax ones that came with the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> panduhz - I'm on vacation, I'll be going through the PMs on the weekend, the remaining adapters will be sent tomorrow (I had to take the work with me, sorry, wife
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> And yes, undervolting the unit does undervolt the fans attached to it, but if the controller uses closed-loop feedback (it seems to me it does) then the speed shouldn't change (only the max speed would be lower).


haha no prob. you dont need to bring your work, enjoy your vacation!








Oh, if it's been sent already I think mine got lost in the mail perhaps. I'll wait and see.


----------



## johnnyw

My H100 pump just suddely stopped to make that grinding noise. Strange really as it has been doing that since i bought it like 5months ago so no idea why it suddenly decided to go all quiet now LOL. My first thought was when noticed it was that pump must of died, but its still working fine


----------



## OG1990sBKrandy

Well, got my old h100 replaced with a 1227, and sure enough, the grinding noise is still present.

I'm not really sure what to think. It's annoying, but I guess I will get over it...Unless I try the "fix".


----------



## wlw wl

Try the diode adapter, as it was shown a few pages back, using the fan adapter is potentially dangerous.


----------



## JAM3S121

HI guys, does corsair offer advanced RMA as in they ship me a unit and i send mine back after? My fan controller is 100% doa on a brand new lot 1226 h100. It still keeps everything very cool with my two noiseblocker XLP fans, but I paid for this thing to work.. but I don't want to reseat my hyper 212+ cause this thing really is a lot better.. plus I'm not out of tim.









I feel nervous getting a RMA unit though, this 1226 one is absolutely dead silent, at first when the fan controller was not lighting up I didn't know if the pump was even on.. sure enough it was cause I unplugged it and my pc instantly shut down.


----------



## hash1720

hey wlw wl i contacted you yesterday about how i wasn't comfortable about doing this my self. i have two stock corsair fans and 2 of these http://www.overclock.co.uk/product/Yate-Loon-D12SL-12C-120mm-Slim-Version_19796.html because i needed slim fans. what diode would i need single or double and is there any other way i can contact you becuase i can only send 2 messages on this site
thanks


----------



## wlw wl

JAM3S121 - see the first post for instructions

hash1720 - YGPM


----------



## REITSY

RMA Received today.

The LOT No. for my new H100 is listed on a sticker which is stuck on the cellophane packaging as 122710401. Strangely it has1 digit longer than normal.

Peeling the corner of the sticker carefully shows the normal white barcode underneath the cellophane which is 12279403.

My understanding is that 1227 means week 27 in 2012, early July, so hopefully should be a fixed one. 9403 if I recall is the part code for the H100.

Wonder if they are re-stickering fixed units with a new part code for the H100, using 10401 instead of 9403. Anyone else got this or got any ideas??

Will test the unit over the weekend to see if I am grind free.


----------



## Zipp

Hi,

I'm having the same problem with my H100 to some degree - it's not as loud as it seems for others - but it's definitely something I can constantly hear from outside the case.

I saw the "fix" about reducing the fan speed with a fan controller - while I am thinking about getting a Scythe Kaze Master Pro, I am not sure if I feel safe connecting the pump here - if the fan controller fails (not sure how likely, but I'm thinking such a controller is a relatively cheap piece of hardware), then my cpu won't get any cooling..

I thought if I another solution could be to reduce the cpu fan speed in bios? I have a P9X79 deluxe and I can see there is an option to set the cpu fan profile to manual and in there it seems I can set the CPU fan max cycle from 0% to 100% (but not lower than a minimum set rpm setting set elsewhere).

Do you think this could be a solution and safe to do?


----------



## wlw wl

No.

1. The setting adjusts the duty cycle of the PWM control signal on the CPU_FAN header. This is only for 4-pin PWM fans.
2. The H80 and H100 are powered directly from the PSU, thus bypassing the CPU_FAN control. The fan connector coming from your H100 is only the read-only pump RPM signal.
3. You need a voltage control to change the speed of the pump, not PWM, but in a way where the speed is set once and then not variated during operation. This is why a hardware solution should be used, not a software adjustment, as this will kick in at POST (if set in BIOS) or in OS if done with 3rd party software). Changing the speed of the pump dynamically is potentially hazardous, as was show a couple of pages back - the unit died because of this.


----------



## Zipp

Ah okay too bad









Do you think I'm worrying too much about connecting it to a fan controller? Not sure how reliable these things are in general as I've never owned one before.

I saw you did some little voltage drop thingies - is that something you sell and do you still make them?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Well, I'm an idiot. I figured my motherboard would provide voltage control for the H100 when hooked up to it via an adapter. Well it doesn't. What a waste of money.

Time to call Corsair up and order an advanced RMA and hope for the best.


----------



## wlw wl

It is possible, but special care should be taken as noted above.
Not all fan headers allow software fan control, those that do are usually marked as chassis fans, those that don't are usually PWR or SYS headers, but it all depends on the make and model of the motherboard.


----------



## kennyparker1337

I have a ASRock P67 Extreme 4.

I tried all the fan headers and none of them would let me tune the pump down via Speedfan or BIOS itself.


----------



## wlw wl

Strange, those two 3-pin headers above first PCI-E slot should work, maybe the adapter wasn't good or the SpeedFan wasn't set up properly (it's not that trivial)?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Strange, those two 3-pin headers above first PCI-E slot should work, maybe the adapter wasn't good or the SpeedFan wasn't set up properly (it's not that trivial)?


Thanks for responding. You inspired me to try one last thing.

I tried CPU Fan (4pin) didn't work. Tried SYS Fan (3pin) didnt even give it power. Tried CHAS Fan 1 (4pin), didn't work. EVEN TRIED CHAS FAN 2 (3pin) AND IT DIDN'T WORK. I figured the Chas Fan 3 was the same as Fan 2 header... right next to each other, both 3 pins...

This is all through the BIOS. So I thought I was done for. No hope. I have to RMA.







Actually I was more pissed than sad. This grinding noise was so loud it was giving me headaches.







Sounds like a dying hard drive.

But then... I said, what the heck, it's worth a shot.

So I got up one last time, and hopelessly plugged the cooler into the CHAS Fan 3 header (3pin). Set in the BIOS level 8 (1-9, 9 being max).

*Silence.*










The pump is now working at ~1875 rpm. Silent. Pure bliss.
(Speedfan is reporting Level 8 as 81% speed (Level 9 = 100%). I could set it higher on speed fan but i would rather have it controlled directly by the BIOS.)

Before the pump was at ~2200 rpm. Grinding. Headache.

After the change, temps didn't change. Still cooling my CPU like a freezer. 5-10c above ambient.

*Thank you!*

All I used was this fan adapter. Plugged the H100 molex into this molex, and the 3pin into the Chas Fan 3 header. Set the speed to Manual - Level 8 in my ASRock P67 Extreme 4 BIOS.

The RPM sensor wire on the H100 can be plugged in any where, or no where.


----------



## wlw wl

Great!

The safest and most comfortable way would be to use a hardware solution, because now any software can set that to 100%, which wouldn't hurt, but it can set it to 0%, which would.

In terms of diode adapters, you'd need two 1N400x diodes in series to achieve the voltage (and speed) you currently have - I can say with 95% confidence that if it's running at 2200 RPM, one diode would not be enough.


----------



## bgineng

My new H100 finally came in after RMA. It is a 1227 and is absolutely silent.


----------



## wlw wl

Good!

Just a note, if you come here and you need an RMA, there's a link in the first post of this thread, which will point you to CorsairGeorge's instructions on what to do to get the "selective RMA".


----------



## danne77sthlm

It is now time to tell everyone about wlw wl enormous kindness!








I ordered these adapters from him through PM and he send my two ones even before I had the time to even pay for them!








I got extremely happy now because our H100 (2 ones) is now deadly silent!








Thanks to you wlw wl
So, everyone that has this issue, try this, after several RMA we got deadly tired of this cooler and now we are happy owners again


----------



## Gil80

Hi,
this post is a continuation of this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1209387/corsair-h100-pump-noise/60#post_17968987

Using the advice of wlw wl, I used two diodes since one only got the pump at 1970RPM and it was still noisy.

Currently I have 1N4004 in serial with 1N5189 (or 5819







) and the pump is at ~1865RPM and silent.

HOWEVER, and it's a big however







I moved one of the tubes on purpose and the grinding noise came again. So I tapped on the pump 3 times and it stopped the noise. Tap once more and the noise comes back, tap again and it's gone... you got the picture.

What would you do if you were in my place? Would you first try to replace it from the store and if it happens again, do a selective RMA with corsair or stick with what I've got?

here are the results:


----------



## aln688

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bgineng*
> 
> My new H100 finally came in after RMA. It is a 1227 and is absolutely silent.


Good news! When I called two days ago about my replacement H100, I was told they are back-ordered and won't ship until at least 23rd of August.


----------



## coolxal

Does selective RMA mean that the shipping fee is waived?


----------



## leighteam

so there's really no way to silence the h60 unless you rma it? this thing is so ******* loud, and my roommate will not appreciate the noise....


----------



## wlw wl

danne77sthlm - you're welcome









Gil80 - this is what I call "the unit is on the edge" and it happens every now and then. Replace that Schottky with 1N400x so you have two 1N400x in series and it should be silent and stable.

coolxal - yes, you'll either get a pre-paid shipping label or they will dispatch an UPS courier to pick up the unit from your place, and with the second option they take most people by surprise because they usually don't notify you before the pickup, so unless you opt for the advance RMA, you should prepare the unit shortly after receiving RMA approval.

leighteam - you can connect it to one of the motherboard's fan headers that can be adjusted from the BIOS or some software and slow the pump down from there. Or to some fan controller. Just be careful to set it to one value and not to go lower than 1700 - 1800 RPM (you might see double the speed readout with H60, so you'd see 3400 - 3600 RPM).


----------



## gregoire

I am sorry to post for those who still have problem with there H100 : my fixed one (1227) is absolutely inaudible and it's really a tremendous peace of hardware !!!

I will definitely buy other products from Corsair (the problem I had with my previous pump are long forgotten)


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregoire*
> 
> I am sorry to post for those who still have problem with there H100 : my fixed one (1227) is absolutely inaudible and it's really a tremendous *peace* of hardware !!!
> 
> I will definitely buy other products from Corsair (the problem I had with my previous pump are long forgotten)












On a saddening note... my brother's second Corsair SSD just died after 3 months (the other one lasted 5 months). No warning... black screen of death and then BIOS doesn't recognize it. All data on drive lost (which thankfully for a 2nd storage hard drive, is close to nothing.)

While my "super bad" OCZ "Crapdrive" (Vertex 2), has been worked flawlessly and fast for 2 years. My Vertex 4 hasn't gave me any problems so far either.








 I told them to sell the replacement drive and get an OCZ Vertex 4. Me thinks it's a good idea.


----------



## ViperJPB

Have two H60s in my latest workstation build. Sadly have the same noise from both. One is definitely louder than the other. I need to play with SpeedFan some more but I don't think my Asus Z9PE-D8 WS is supported or properly registered as I don't see the reading for the fan headers controlling the pumps like I do in the bios. Plus the Bios on this workstation board does not have direct fan control, just 3 overall speed profiles.

May be buying a couple diodes from wlw wl very soon as taking these coolers out would be an immense chore considering the modding required to get them in my case in the first place. Must have silence!


----------



## wlw wl

kennyparker1337 - I think there aren't many differences between OCZ SF SSDs and Corsair SF SSDs, you could say that Agility = Force 3 and Vertex = Force GT. If the drive just dies, and more than one piece, it probably means that the controller gets busted and I'd look closely at the PSU as the possible cause.

ViperJPB - will move heaven and earth if need to, but the silence you should have








Should have put thee or thou in there, or maybe that would be too much


----------



## Jimma47

I just had my H100 replaced following the Selective RMA process linked at the start of the thread. Mine started grinding after about six months so I'm not sure if that can be put down to voltage or not. Started infrequently, and a tap would fix it but became more and more frequent until it was constant and no amount of tapping or moving the case around would solve it.

Anyways Thanks wlw wl for this thread and for following up with Corsair.

For anyone contemplating the RMA - do it. I first received an RMA authorisation but to ship from AUS to Hong Kong was going to cost $65 AUD. I was starting to think is it really worth it. Then I saw the link here and contacted Corsair again and they offered a pre paid shipping label.

Don't forget tho you need to *organise the pickup yourselves* (UPS website) I wasted about a week because I wasn't sure if creating the label would automatically generate a pick up request.

Once I sorted that out - the turnaround from pick up from Hobart, Australia to the new product being delivered to my door from Hong Kong was around 7 days.

Can't fault that.

Thanks CorsairGeorge, Huge thanks to wlw wl

Cheers
Jimma


----------



## wlw wl

Glad you got it sorted out!
That's how the procedure should work, but unfortunately there are still people. who got the replacements lot# 1227+ and these are still making noises, so the good old adapter finds a new home every now and then


----------



## ViperJPB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> kennyparker1337 - I think there aren't many differences between OCZ SF SSDs and Corsair SF SSDs, you could say that Agility = Force 3 and Vertex = Force GT. If the drive just dies, and more than one piece, it probably means that the controller gets busted and I'd look closely at the PSU as the possible cause.
> ViperJPB - will move heaven and earth if need to, but the silence you should have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should have put thee or thou in there, or maybe that would be too much


Thank you sir! Looking forward to it.


----------



## TulipVorlax

Hi,

My H80 is still doing good with the voltage adapter.

The H80 in my friend computer wasn't making any noise, we were feeling lucky on that one.
But more recently, his H80 began making the grinding noise but only at the startup of the computer.
It stop been noisy pretty fast, i dont know exactly how much time it takes but i think it's less than a minute, but could be two..
I wont touch it untli it get worse, if ever.
I have my spare adapter lying on my table between my keyboard and my screen so i'll be able to just put it in if it became needed.

See ya.


----------



## pancakes1983

Hi wlw wl,

I haven't been in contact with you what so ever, but I have copied your design, and I just want to thank you for your knowledge and help, my cooler pump is now dead silent (H100 batch 121XXXX) after I made up a diode plug fix. There wasn't much noise before but now there is none what so ever.

BTW on stock clocks (2600K) with only the 2 corsair fans on medium in my cm690ii advanced, I'm getting 21 - 22 degree's on idle and a maximum of 40 degree's on all cores on full load with prime95, planning to overclock soon after I've finished researching how to do it properly with the proper volts etc.

So cheers from down under for all your help,
Brett


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pancakes1983*
> 
> Hi wlw wl,
> 
> I haven't been in contact with you what so ever, but I have copied your design, and I just want to thank you for your knowledge and help, my cooler pump is now dead silent (H100 batch 121XXXX) after I made up a diode plug fix. There wasn't much noise before but now there is none what so ever.
> 
> BTW on stock clocks (2600K) with only the 2 corsair fans on medium in my cm690ii advanced, I'm getting 21 - 22 degree's on idle and a maximum of 40 degree's on all cores on full load with prime95, planning to overclock soon after I've finished researching how to do it properly with the proper volts etc.
> 
> So cheers from down under for all your help,
> Brett


21 degree idle... do you live in Alaska or Russia by chance?


----------



## pancakes1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> 21 degree idle... do you live in Alaska or Russia by chance?


LOL Nah South Australia, I have a total of 7 Fans in my case with an extremely positive airflow, I can take a screen shot if need be, this info has been confirmed with RealTemp, Coretemp, and another program I can't remember, remember though, that's at stock clocks.

Also it is winter here at the moment to.


----------



## Gil80

What does it mean positive air flow?


----------



## pancakes1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> What does it mean positive air flow?


? not sure if you can google or not, but basically it means a lot of air coming into the case, in fact more air coming in than going out


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pancakes1983*
> 
> ? not sure if you can google or not, but basically it means a lot of air coming into the case, in fact more air coming in than going out


So you flipped the back fan as intake? usually the back fan that comes installed in the case, is blowing outwards.
And if using H100, it is usually mounted on the top of the case which its fan also blowing outwards.


----------



## pancakes1983

Nope the H100 is an intake, the rear fan is the only one blowing out, hence "positive airflow"

Yar H100 mounted on top of the case

They say that if the H100 in an intake setup you may see a couple of degree's more, but i honestly haven't seen that, then again I have so many fans it probably doesn't effect it anyways

Saying all this, my setup is quite loud-ish, or so the wife tells me lol


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pancakes1983*
> 
> Nope the H100 is an intake, the rear fan is the only one blowing out, hence "positive airflow"
> 
> Yar H100 mounted on top of the case
> 
> They say that if the H100 in an intake setup you may see a couple of degree's more, but i honestly haven't seen that, then again I have so many fans it probably doesn't effect it anyways
> 
> Saying all this, my setup is quite loud-ish, or so the wife tells me lol


It should be cooler for the H100 and make the inside of the case hotter.

I personally tested this and I did not notice any temp drops with the H100 as intake. I was going to leave it as intake, but now with the GTX480 being cooled on the rear fan... it was really killing temps feeding hot air into the GTX 480 rad.

So now I have the H100 as exhaust and I will be flipping the GTX 480 rad fan to be intake.

Just did this, and it lowered my GTX 480 temps by 4-5c. My CPU temps went up by 2c but the GTX 480 gets much more hot.

*CPU Idle at 33C and GPU idle at 36C.*

http://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?tid=wh_positive&area=en


----------



## wlw wl

pancakes1983 - cool! I've sent somewhere between 10 to 20 adapters to Australia, now they are replicating







Nice that it worked for you








And those temps on a 2600K are unbelievable. I had a H100 on a 2600K as well, and it was running much hotter, about ambient+5 in idle and up to 60 in stress.

A big *+* of the positive pressure setup is that the air is pushed into the case only through the fans, and it leaves wherever it can - which means you can keep the dust out by putting some filters on the intake fans. In a negative pressure setup the air is being sucked into the case through all the little holes, along with the dust, and it can't be controlled.


----------



## MeanBruce

Yup, I'm using positive pressure, H100 as an intake with 2 NF-F12s, front CM200mm intake, single NF-F12 rear exhaust.










Also have one screenshot with 4NF-F12s in Push/Pull running off a 12v molex line with 22C idle cpu temp. Same H100.

I know wlw_wl will figure it out, sort of a brain-teaser but not a trick at all.

Here it is: who said Ivy Bridge runs hot?


----------



## wlw wl

Fat chance, I'm too stupid. I'm so stupid that I don't even know what is that thing I'm supposed to figure out. See?

And I can't see a thing on the second screenshot.


----------



## MeanBruce

Sorry the 2nd screenshot I did not magnify, and OCN shrunk it when I linked it, It just says CPU 22C, motherboard and PLX 31C, which are really low thermals. H100s usually cool a CPU at about 30C to 33C and I was just playing around with Push/Pull for the first time and got a 22C temp with my H100 and was surprised. I know how super smart you are dude so I thought you would guess how the temp got so low.

Anyway, didn't mean to bother you, will let you know how I got that temp in a PM, hope all is well man.


----------



## wlw wl

Come on mate, you didn't bother me









Well, you could have lapped the cooler and the CPU, you couls have used a custom, high pressure mount, and add push/pull to that - but somehow I doubt it would knock 10 degrees off.
Or maybe you OC'ed the pump to 6000 RPM









All is rather well, thank you, besides a horrible back pain (lumbar sprain), which puts me behind the schedule on the adapters, so sorry everyone who is waiting for them, will be done ASAP, underline P.


----------



## MeanBruce

This one is easier to see, using a different hardware monitor:



















Sorry again for low-jacking your thread bro, but when everyone gets their H100 pumps RMA'd or using your ingenious adapter, and this issue resolved they can look forward to some very low thermals.

Now back to our regular programming.


----------



## Pings

CooliT is no good!


----------



## Gil80

Guys... I'm lost... please help.... I had enough of being unlucky...

Today I've received a revised version of H100 after selective RMA.

So yes it's quite as it should... but the temps are high!!!

I'm on idle 1.6Ghz with Ivy 3770K and the temps are at 30deg!!!!!! ***?!

I replaced the thermal grease with Antec Formula 7.
I've tightened the screws all the way using a screwdriver...

I'm lost..


----------



## wlw wl

That's the kind of temperatures I had with H100 on i7 2600K - 30-ish idle, 58-60 OCCT, no OC, just Turbo.
You might have actually over-tightened the screws. The CPU isn't flat, the H100 isn't flat, if you put too little or too much pressure, there's a gap (air bubble) in the middle.

While the "new" units (122710401) seem to have the rattle issue lessened, I'm having more and more reports about them making a "whine", "whirl" or "*high pitched noise*".
This is not normal and the noise shouldn't be there, so I encourage anyone with this issue to speak out so this can be addressed as well.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> That's the kind of temperatures I had with H100 on i7 2600K - 30-ish idle, 58-60 OCCT, no OC, just Turbo.
> You might have actually over-tightened the screws. The CPU isn't flat, the H100 isn't flat, if you put too little or too much pressure, there's a gap (air bubble) in the middle.
> While the "new" units (122710401) seem to have the rattle issue lessened, I'm having more and more reports about them making a "whine", "whirl" or "*high pitched noise*".
> This is not normal and the noise shouldn't be there, so I encourage anyone with this issue to speak out so this can be addressed as well.


I hardly believe it's the case. I've reassembled the pump 4 times while tightening and loosening the screws to no avail. with the faulty h100 it showed 20deg on the first installation.

Also, I do hear the high pitch noise as mentioned.

my unit # is: 12279403

EDIT: Very strange... my temps are at ~33deg when Vcore is 1.22/1.4/0.89 all in idle... what does that mean?


----------



## wlw wl

Ask Bruce, he's got the same CPU and good temps...

So, was the rattling replaced with high pitched whine?


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Ask Bruce, he's got the same CPU and good temps...
> So, was the rattling replaced with high pitched whine?


Yeah.... not as bad as one might expect.... but easy to notice....









Who's Bruce?


----------



## wlw wl

Bruce is Bruce, and he's Mean.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1236923/corsair-h100-h80-h60-noise-grinding-pump-fix-official-corsair-response/1120_20#post_17995585


----------



## streetwolf

I really am torn whether my H100 is one of the so called defective ones. My H100 ran fine for about two months after I installed it in April. Then it started to make a noise. It used to occur more often than it does now. When it does happen I can smack my case and the noise will stop. Usually I smack the top of the side panel near the CPU. Eventually I will hear it again at some point in time for a few minutes then it will stop by itself. It is never a constant noise and as I said the noise has lessened over the last few weeks. I can go an hour or more without hearing the noise unlike before where it would come back after minutes.

My noise is not dependent on the speed button. I can have my H100 set to 1, 2, or 3 lights and not hear the noise. My normal operating procedure is to stay at two lights.

Does any of this sound like the symptoms of a bad H100? Do you think the noise is coming from 'somewhere' else? Is there some place else around the H100 that needs to be tightened perhaps? All the retaining screws are tight but not too tight. I can't see any obvious things to cause a vibration. If it matters my case is a Corsair Obsidian 800D Full Tower. Anything about this case that might be causing the noise? Just throwing things out to you.

It would be a shame to install a new H100 just to hear the same noise.


----------



## aln688

I should receive my RMA'd replacement H100 today or tomorrow, which was originally back-ordered. I'll post the box "lot code" and how quiet (_I'm optimistic_) the pump is when I have it up and running.


----------



## REITSY

My new H100 (post RMA) is also running hotter than my old one. Plus as wlw wl mentions I have this high pitch hum. So frustrating but as I am mid-RMA with Corsair I can't do anything until they pick up my old unit. My only god send is Amazon have agreed to extend my returns window to end of Sept so if this doesn't get better in next few days I will be looking at the Thermaltake or going windy with a Noctua NH-D14


----------



## wlw wl

streetwolf - the noise isn't normal and shouldn't be there, if the noise comes back more and more frequently (i.e. the time between occurrences becomes shorter) it might indicate the bearing wear, so keep an eye on it.
I don't think the noise is coming from anywhere else but the pump itself. It may seem so because the hoses, coolant and the whole chassis will resonate the sound.


----------



## streetwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> streetwolf - the noise isn't normal and shouldn't be there, if the noise comes back more and more frequently (i.e. the time between occurrences becomes shorter) it might indicate the bearing wear, so keep an eye on it.
> I don't think the noise is coming from anywhere else but the pump itself. It may seem so because the hoses, coolant and the whole chassis will resonate the sound.


The thing is the noise is becoming more infrequent. Where it occurred every 5 minutes or so it now occurs maybe once an hour for a few minutes, sometimes it's quiet for two hours.

So the problem has to do with the bearing in the unit? This might explain why banging on my case might quiet the noise. Maybe I'm realigning things for the moment







The noise I hear sounds like static coming from an old TV set. It's not a buzz or a whine, or a high pitch sound as others have stated it was, then again sound can be subjective.

I agree if the noise does emanate from my H100 it's not a good thing. After reading that folks are getting replacements that in some cases seem to be even worse than the H100 they are replacing doesn't give me that warm fuzzy feeling. Usually defective things have lot numbers, serial numbers to identify the defective units. Almost sounds like it wasn't a bad batch of H100's but a design problem from the get go which possibly has not been resolved to the extent that getting a replacement will definitely fix the problem.

I'll probably go with a replacement with fingers crossed. Is removing the old unit as simple as just unscrewing the retaining screws and radiator? Am I correct it assuming I can leave the back plane as is and just attach the new H1000 to it?. Can I use Isotropy alcohol to remove the thermal paste on the CPU?

Thanks.


----------



## wlw wl

Yes, you are right, the problem is as old as the new Hydro series coolers themselves, so about a year now. It is a flaw probably more in manufacture than in design, although there is a number of other design flaws.

As far as RMA goes, you have to return the whole kit, including fans, and most likely the backplate too. You can verify that by calling the Customer Care.

I think it enters a state of resonance when a number of conditions is fulfilled, including rotational speed of the pump and shaft/bearing looseness, so you can not only "kick" it out of the state, but into the state as well. Probably a few taps when it's silent will make it start rattling.

Yes, you can use the isopropanol to clean off the old TIM.


----------



## streetwolf

What do you guys think of this post I found over at the Corsair Cooling forum? Any merit to it?

"I found a fix! the buzzing is to do with dirty power being fed over the 12 volt molex basically the pump is very sensitive to voltage fluctuation so the increase and decrease of voltage messes the balance of the bearing up and it vibrates. I put a ferrite core around my molex connector and it filtered out the noisy current and it runs silent. I tested it in several places including at the base of my power supply and on-top of the unit. you have to restart the pc before it works. Tnis is what the diode fix does but obviously this fix is alot easier as you can buy ferrite cores in any electronic store. HOPE THIS HELPS "

Looking back at when I heard my first noise I did move the Molex connector around a bit to reduce some case clutter right before. I seemed to have tucked under a very thick cable which looks like a cable from a PSU. So I wonder if this guys onto something.

This might be crazy but not having any Cores at my disposal I do have lots of cables that have the cylinder thing on them that I think act like Cores. So I removed them from a cable and taped two of them on either side of the Molex connector. I also moved it away from other cables. I haven't heard any noise but it is way too early to claim success using this method.


----------



## wlw wl

This is one of the things that I have suggested quite a long time ago, first at the forums, then when talking to their engineers - that the voltage noise might be screwing with the motor, which was why I suggested that it would be worth looking into the effect that changing the PWM clock might have on this issue. Their answer was, quote, "It's looking like this could be a shaft/bearing tolerance issue, if that's the case changing the PWM frequency (by mod'ing C3 on the pump stator) will not have an effect.", end of quote.
So that's not really news to me.

Also the ferrite core has nothing in common with how the diode fix works. A ferrite core will filter (by absorbing it) high frequency voltage changes, the diode lowers the voltage and that's all it does.

I said exactly this in my dialog with George and the engineers:
Quote:


> [about my ideas of the root cause of the problem and solutions] One of them is to try changing the default PWM clock (25kHZ) to a higher value, such as 30kHz (by changing the C3 capacitor on the pump assembly PCB) as I think *that would prove if the voltage noise/ripple is a factor or not* - many PSU DC-DC converters operate with similar PWM clock so maybe the BLDC motor is *resonating from the voltage noise superimposed on the PWM* base frequency.
> That's just a theory, but since it's so easy to verify, I would start there.


But I never received the units I was supposed to, to test this and other things on, so I couldn't. They also didn't do it, because the bearing issue was blamed for everything and the conversation was cut off.

Fell free to correct that guy or link him here.


----------



## Gil80

Would you recommend using the diode with the revised H100 just to be on the safe side?


----------



## wlw wl

If it works, i.e. it solves the noise problem, then you are safe to use it.
If it doesn't help (one or two diodes in series), then there's no reason to use it.

A diode+filter adapter could be easily made, but I have nowhere to test it at this point. And unless someone donates an H100 to science, which we know will not happen, I won't.

The fan controller part of the H80 and H100 has its own filter, but the pump assembly on the H60, H80 and H100 doesn't as far as I recall, the data is on my PC which is currently dead so I can't look into it.
But like I said it would be easy to incorporate it into the adapter.


----------



## Gil80

by filter, you refer to ferrite core?

P.S. - yesterday you mentioned Bruce, the mean dude :]
how can he help me with the temp issues I experience with the revised H100?

EDIT: Very strange... my temps are at ~33deg when Vcore is 1.22/1.4/0.89 all in idle... what does that mean? Volts should alter the temps


----------



## wlw wl

There are many ways to make a low pass filter - a ferrite bead is a good one, a capacitor would probably work as well.

MeanBruce, well, he has the same CPU and the same cooler, maybe he'll tell you his secret of very low temps








Me, in turn, I don't know much about Ivy.


----------



## aln688

Just received this today, here's hoping the pump is quiet on this revision.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Welp, I guess returning a recalled "SandyBridge" laptop and *noisy pump on H100* pisses of Amazon.

They just banned me and took $50 of Gift Card balance right after they took $40 for a Prime Renewal.
They refunded my Prime and GCB.

Out of like 60+ orders from 2011+ I returned 5 things. 2 above, 2 mis-advertised products, and a defective lava lamp (if its cloudy.. what is the point of it?).

In fact, the replacement H100 i got from them was again, noisy, but I kept it because I didn't feel like trying my luck again.

Just a buyer beware: RMA to Corsair, not Amazon.

Quote:


> Hello,
> 
> A careful review of your account indicates that you've requested refunds on a majority of your orders for a variety of reasons.
> 
> In the normal course of business, we expect there may be occasional problems. However, the rate at which such problems have occurred on your account is extraordinary, and it cannot continue. Effective immediately, your Amazon.com account is closed, and you will no longer be able to shop in our store.
> *
> All other accounts related to yours have also been closed. If you were to open a new account, it would also be closed. We will not accept the return of any additional orders placed under a new account, and we won't issue further refunds for those orders. We appreciate your cooperation.*
> 
> Going forward, any questions must be directed to [email protected] Please do not contact Amazon's Customer Service department, as they will no longer be able to assist you.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Account Specialist


----------



## Gil80

wlw wl, see if you can understand what I try to describe and what you make of it









in regards to high temps with the new H100 I received yesterday.

when I hold the pump unit against the CPU, just before using the thumb screws I do the following:
1 hand is holding the pump, 2nd hand I place/press one of the pumps mounting corners (where the thumb screws go over), then I realize that the pump block levels to the pressure I applied.

Holding the new level as applied pressure on one corner, I then apply with my finger pressure on the opposite corner and now the pump levels to the opposite corner.

This leads to a conclusion that the LGA 1155 mounting bracket does not provide even levelling and the pump block doesn't apply even pressure across the CPU thermal casing.


----------



## twitchyzero

lol instead of fixing this they are now going to just release a new model
good thing I didnt buy one..I feel terrible for the current 7100 owners
Quote:


> Product name: H100i
> Model: New (TBD)
> UPC: New (TBD)
> Package dimensions: Same as H100
> Retail packaging: New design
> 
> Functions:
> 
> New water cooling fitting could provide more strengthen thermal performance
> 240mm water cooling radiator
> Supports Corsair Link
> New bracket design allows more convenient support for Intel, AMD CPU
> Updated, better performance, thicker water cooling fitting design


http://www.overclock.net/t/1297712/mizukicommunity-corsair-900d-godzilla-unveiled


----------



## aln688

I really didn't want to see that, especially since I just got my replacement. I see the "H100i" is rumoured to have a thicker radiator...

http://hardwarebbq.com/2012/08/corsair-product-line-up-leaks-newest-flagship-900d-godzilla-pc-chassis-200r-h80ih100i-water-cooling-units/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=corsair-product-line-up-leaks-newest-flagship-900d-godzilla-pc-chassis-200r-h80ih100i-water-cooling-units


----------



## panduhz

Not necessarily a thicker radiator but perhaps going with revising the pump design to something similar to coolermasters:
http://hardwarebbq.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Coolermaster-Germany-showsoff-Eisberg-Pr_13DAC/Eisberg-Single.png


----------



## wlw wl

kennyparker1337 - they sell crap and then they are surprised people are trying to return or replace it? Well if they don't like your money, take it somewhere else, it's not you who will lose...

Gil80 - I told you before (or somebody else) - the CPU isn't flat and the cooler isn't flat, and on top of that the brackets aren't straight, so... yeah, a see-saw.

twitchyzero - "lol instead of fixing this they are now going to just release a new model" - George has explicitly stated that the remaining flaws and problems with Hydro series will not be addressed in the current models.
So if it's H100i, not H120 or w/e, it seems they aren't scrapping this wacky CoolIT design and returning to Asetek, but trying to fix this.or maybe it's just an updated mounting bracket.
It would be interesting to see if it incorporates any of the fixes that I suggested to their staff, like initial input voltage regulation on the pump's PCB. Should have patented that








Anyway these "leaks" are not to be trusted, because these people apparently have no idea what they are talking about: "One of the notable difference in in H80i/H100i is Corsair Link" - hello, H80 and H100 had the Link connectivity already.


----------



## streetwolf

So the H coolers do not sit flat on the CPU. Is their a recommendation on how to deal with this? Do I loosen or tighten all the bracket screws or have some combination? Or... do I 'eat' the problem and add to the list of Corsair's mistakes with their coolers?

Could this not sitting flat be the reason CPU core 4 is about 4/5c higher than my other cores or is this normal for all Quad Core CPUS? I have a 3770K btw


----------



## Nitrius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *streetwolf*
> 
> So the H coolers do not sit flat on the CPU. Is their a recommendation on how to deal with this? Do I loosen or tighten all the bracket screws or have some combination? Or... do I 'eat' the problem and add to the list of Corsair's mistakes with their coolers?
> Could this not sitting flat be the reason CPU core *4 is about 4/5c higher than my other cores or is this normal for all Quad Core CPUS?* I have a 3770K btw


That's something i've been wondering myself for quite some time. Though here it is core 0 and 2 that is higher with about 3/4c.

Anyway, i bought the H100 last week, and was one of the unlucky ones with the sound from the pump, but i "fixed" that with the diode trick that was found. And beside that the cooler seems to be working fine. So am wondering, do those coolers that have the sound have a higher chance of "dying" earlier than it should? Or isn't the sound to any harm at all? Beside being annoying of course. The reason am asking is because am not sure if i should go for an RMA or not, if the sound really isn't to any harm beside being annoying i don't really want to spent the time to wait for the new one to arrive from Corsair.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *streetwolf*
> 
> So the H coolers do not sit flat on the CPU. Is their a recommendation on how to deal with this? Do I loosen or tighten all the bracket screws or have some combination? Or... do I 'eat' the problem and add to the list of Corsair's mistakes with their coolers?
> Could this not sitting flat be the reason CPU core 4 is about 4/5c higher than my other cores or is this normal for all Quad Core CPUS? I have a 3770K btw


My core 1 runs about 3-4 degrees higher than the others.


----------



## streetwolf

My gut feeling tells me this 'flat' issue is not a fixable thing by messing with the screws. After all if it isn't flat to begin with you are not going to make it flat by tightening and or loosening screws. In fact you'd probably make things worse.

At this point I am very hesitant in going through with the RMA process knowing that folks are still getting bad units. My H100 noise has lessened considerably over the last few weeks. In fact it's been hours since I turned on my machine and I haven't heard the usual cooler noise. OOPS stop the presses, the noise just came back as I am writing this. Let me give my case a good rap. RAP. Noise now gone.

What a predicament, live with a very minor annoyance at this point or risk even bigger problems with a new unit. I suppose if the new one is worse I could just put my old one back and return the new unit to Corsair, but there is always a risk in removing and installing units. I could wind up being the cause of a screw up.


----------



## aln688

If I don't receive silence with my replacement, I'll consider using this:


----------



## streetwolf

Even if you could place the cooler in a vacuum the noise is a symptom of a bigger problem not the problem itself, right?


----------



## Korruptive

And just last night I was considering buying a corsair watercooling kit for my new rig, on second thoughts...


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> kennyparker1337 - they sell crap and then they are surprised people are trying to return or replace it? Well if they don't like your money, take it somewhere else, it's not you who will lose...


Exactly.

It's their loss. I buy tons and tons of items from them. They were my GOTO store besides any other store. Unfortunately, I am a "smart buyer" and I know when I get defective, recalled, and miss-advertised products.. and I don't just "accept" it.

Now because of their extreme ban hammer policy, they will no longer receive my money. Even if they were to re-open my account, I would not shop there anymore. Their ban policy is like a slap into your face.

Imagine going into Walmart and you're immediately escorted out and told "you or any of your family members are not allowed to enter another Walmart, ever again. Period. Now get out!!!"

Zero warnings. Not once did they say "Hey, quit returning [defective] stuff or your account will be closed!"










On a lighter note, why did they name the H100... "100" and not H120 for the 120mm radiator width, or H240 for the 240mm length? lol

For god's sake... why H100i... trying to copy Apple much?


----------



## streetwolf

If they were trying to copy Apple they would have called it the iH100. Hmmm... could be short for I Hate my 100









btw... is there anything else out there that is comparable to the H100 and doesn't have any defects?

I'm also surprised that some Lawyer hasn't tried to start a Class Action Suit. I suppose there isn't enough H100's out there to justify it.


----------



## wlw wl

kennyparker1337 - I think that is to keep on par with the AX1200i PSU, where "i" stand for supposedly intelligent, as it's all electronic this and clever that. Maybe now the AX1200i + H100i makes for a super intelligent stuff or whatever, or they are just adding "i" to stuff that has the Link connectivity, as that PSU does.

streetwolf - yes there is, Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme, which is made by Asetek and has a 240 RAD as well. There are 120 versions as well. It's a bit more expensive from what I've seen, but it has a sturdier pump design (a modernized Asetek pump seen previously on their other stuff, including Corsair H50 / H70) and doesn't have the somewhat wacky fan controller which for me personally is a +.

ed: too much _stuff_ in this stuff


----------



## aln688

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *streetwolf*
> 
> btw... is there anything else out there that is comparable to the H100 and doesn't have any defects?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1226720/cooler-master-eisberg-120-eisberg-240-and-eisberg-360-water-cooling-solutions/0_50


----------



## streetwolf

The Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme looks sweet. It's nice that they let you control it in software without adding additional hardware like Corsair's CorsairLink Commander. I've had my share of problems with my CorsairLink Commander and software on top of my H100 problems. CL is a POS IMO

Does the Thermaltake have the flatness issue that the H100 has?


----------



## Faithh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitrius*
> 
> That's something i've been wondering myself for quite some time. Though here it is core 0 and 2 that is higher with about 3/4c.
> Anyway, i bought the H100 last week, and was one of the unlucky ones with the sound from the pump, but i "fixed" that with the diode trick that was found. And beside that the cooler seems to be working fine. So am wondering, do those coolers that have the sound have a higher chance of "dying" earlier than it should? Or isn't the sound to any harm at all? Beside being annoying of course. The reason am asking is because am not sure if i should go for an RMA or not, if the sound really isn't to any harm beside being annoying i don't really want to spent the time to wait for the new one to arrive from Corsair.


Well, that's obvious. All cores can't run at the same temps. Some cores might be requiring more power than others, which can result in higher temps. Even on the stock cooler that core can still run hotter than the others.. On my H100 it was the 3rd core which was running hottest and the first one was the coolest. With an Intel stock cooler, the same story repeats.

It's not something to worry about it unless one core is 50° higher than others


----------



## wlw wl

streetwolf - probably none of the CPUs' IHS are really flat, so don't worry about that.

Nitrius, Faithh - and the core placement is also very important. When you get into the CPU structure, there are many regions of which each and every one has a different characteristic. As far as I recall the hottest part of the CPU is the cache, so if the CPU structure is asymmetrical, you might see situations like thirf and fourth core being hotter than the rest etc. Also sensor placement plays a role. So it's nothing to worry about and nothing that can be corrected outside of the CPU.


----------



## armorfid

Continued from here: I received a third H80, now from lot 1227, and the rattling noise is definitely still there. When the pump is orientated upwards, there is no noise at all; when tilted at 90° (like if installed), it makes a medium rattling noise, which won't stop under any circumstance; and when tilted upside-down, it makes a loud rattling noise, but which stops instantly if I tap the tubing or heatsink a single time.

I guess I'll just call it a day and go grab some 1N400x at the hardware store.


----------



## wlw wl

Try it on another PSU, for science and giggles.


----------



## armorfid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Try it on another PSU, for science and giggles.


Same result. First PSU is some 7 years-old 250W OEM scrap pulled from a broken computer, second one is the 1 year-old Antec TP-750 I have in my main rig, which according to the BIOS, outputs an exact +12.000V


----------



## twitchyzero

i guess if your h100 replacemente is still faulty..it wouldn't seem unreasonable for them send you a h100i
assuming this is a revised h100 will come out


----------



## wlw wl

That would seem perfectly reasonable, as long as there are actually any significant changes to the pump and its controller.
But that product isn't even vaguely announced yet, and they never discuss rumors and TBD products.


----------



## streetwolf

It's my understanding the whole H series cooler 'defect' has been going on for a long time. When will companies step up to the plate (baseball term for those where football/soccer is the only sport they care about  ) and take responsibility for their mistakes? Sure a company doesn't want to admit mistakes since they open themselves up to law suits and the like. Keeping quiet is an old tried and true method of avoiding bad press and suits.

In many cases it takes government intervention to get these companies to issue a recall of defective products. This is one of the few good thing about governments.

I'm particularly peeved that when I reported my H100 noise problem, albeit it was in the CorsairLink forum, no one, not even RAMGUY, made mention of the H series defect. He had the nerve to denigrate me for getting on his case for not coming clean with the H100 issues.

I've lost much respect for Corsair and will take my business elsewhere.

Stepping off soap box now, paying my 2 cents.


----------



## wlw wl

The official response is "we sold thousands and thousands of these and only a very small percentage is RMA'ed", which is in this thread as well. That sentence makes it even funnier to see professional reviewers smacking the H100 with a ruler to make it shut up because it spoils the video


----------



## Gil80

Is it me or the fans have no effect what so ever on the radiator? The H100 240mm radiator seems to be not effected by RPM of the fans and the temps stay still at full speed and at 0 speed.


----------



## streetwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Is it me or the fans have no effect what so ever on the radiator? The H100 240mm radiator seems to be not effected by RPM of the fans and the temps stay still at full speed and at 0 speed.


Not so clear on what you mean. If you are saying that your fan speeds don't seem to change speeds when temps change I haven't seen this. You may or may not know that the fans adjust their speed to the temp of the liquid coolant in the pump and not things like CPU temp.

Here's a chart showing how the three modes of the H cooler react to temp and change the RPM of the fans.

http://www.corsair.com/media/cms/Blog/H100_buildlog/profile_chart.jpg

IMO the method of changing speeds by having to manually press the button on the cooler itself is pretty lame. From the chart it's obvious that a coolant temp of 40 is high so why 3 modes? Why not have one mode that spans the whole range of temps? Why do I have to open my case and push a button? But then again they wouldn't be able to sell you a Corsair Link Commander to do this with software.


----------



## MeanBruce

Guess everyone has heard the news about the new H100i and H80i, news broke 2days ago. It is going to be interesting, I guess the little i at the end means they are Digital, haha, who knows. Also a new chassis, the Obsidian 900D, it looks very nice.

Hope when someone first receives an H100i as their RMA, they will post the auditory output here.

I am guessing Corsair will go for a completely new pump design, so they can "turn the page" on this issue altogether.

Have a great weekend bro!









I have a hurricane to deal with starting Monday. Yikes&#8230;


----------



## streetwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Guess everyone has heard the news about the new H100i and H80i, news broke 2days ago. It is going to be interesting, I guess the little i at the end means they are Digital, haha, who knows. Also a new chassis, the Obsidian 900D, it looks very nice.
> Hope when someone first receives an H100i as their RMA, they will post the auditory output here.
> I am guessing Corsair will go for a completely new pump design, so they can "turn the page" on this issue altogether.
> Have a great weekend bro!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a hurricane to deal with starting Monday. Yikes&#8230;


Turn the page you say? Did Corsair really have any page to turn? If they did they waited way too long to turn it.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *streetwolf*
> 
> Turn the page you say? Did Corsair really have any page to turn? If they did they waited way too long to turn it.


Completely agree bro, been on this with the great wlw_wl for a long time now, seems Corsair waited what 9months? Before finally saying "Fremont we have a problem!"

That's why I am certain they would like this issue to be in their rear view mirror.


----------



## streetwolf

I notice that I can turn my H100 slightly left and right. First of all, is it normal to have a little play in the H100? Secondly, do you think if I placed it to the left or right it might help with the noise?


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *streetwolf*
> 
> Not so clear on what you mean. If you are saying that your fan speeds don't seem to change speeds when temps change I haven't seen this. You may or may not know that the fans adjust their speed to the temp of the liquid coolant in the pump and not things like CPU temp.
> Here's a chart showing how the three modes of the H cooler react to temp and change the RPM of the fans.
> http://www.corsair.com/media/cms/Blog/H100_buildlog/profile_chart.jpg
> IMO the method of changing speeds by having to manually press the button on the cooler itself is pretty lame. From the chart it's obvious that a coolant temp of 40 is high so why 3 modes? Why not have one mode that spans the whole range of temps? Why do I have to open my case and push a button? But then again they wouldn't be able to sell you a Corsair Link Commander to do this with software.


No I'm referring to the temps that are not changing in regards to fan speeds.

the fans can turn fast or slow, it won't affect the temps


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> No I'm referring to the temps that are not changing in regards to fan speeds.
> the fans can turn fast or slow, it won't affect the temps


Am using the H100 as an Intake, downfiring cold outside air thru the radiator and down onto the mobo and memory. My CPU thermals rise and fall with fan speed, I step them with an outboard PWM controller, 300rpm (minimum rotation)-838rpm-1141rpm-1497rpm, each step shows a thermal gradient, a different CPU temperature.

Using the H100 as an exhaust shows little if no CPU temp differentiation when changing fan speeds. I agree with you there.


----------



## streetwolf

I have my fans mounted on top of the radiator pulling air down through the case. My CPU temps vary according to the speed of my fans. I have no ideas what would happen to temps if I exhaust air out through the radiator. Seems air going from the outside in is the only way it should be done unless the outside air is hotter than your case in which case you need some serious a/c in your house or wherever.

Just discovered I could use my ruler to stop my H100 noise without having to move too much. What I really need is to design some Rube Goldberg contraption that smacks my case when the noise starts


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Am using the H100 as an Intake, downfiring cold outside air thru the radiator and down onto the mobo and memory. My CPU thermals rise and fall with fan speed, I step them with an outboard PWM controller, 300rpm (minimum rotation)-838rpm-1141rpm-1497rpm, each step shows a thermal gradient, a different CPU temperature.
> Using the H100 as an exhaust shows little if no CPU temp differentiation when changing fan speeds. I agree with you there.


How do you prevent dust in that case?
Do you use 240mm DECMi filters?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> No I'm referring to the temps that are not changing in regards to fan speeds.
> the fans can turn fast or slow, it won't affect the temps
> 
> 
> 
> Am using the H100 as an Intake, downfiring cold outside air thru the radiator and down onto the mobo and memory. My CPU thermals rise and fall with fan speed, I step them with an outboard PWM controller, 300rpm (minimum rotation)-838rpm-1141rpm-1497rpm, each step shows a thermal gradient, a different CPU temperature.
> 
> Using the H100 as an exhaust shows little if no CPU temp differentiation when changing fan speeds. I agree with you there.
Click to expand...

That's still weird as the temperature of a radiator should be directly related to air flow, regardless of ambient.

I found in my setup, with a 25C ambient, that neither intake or exhaust really produced better temps.

However, by upping the fan speed from low to high, I noticed a 10C drop in temps during stress tests. This is as exhaust.


----------



## Stefy

So 1% of the units are affected? Is the sound very loud as in you will know for sure that it is the actual cooler?


----------



## streetwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stefy*
> 
> So 1% of the units are affected? Is the sound very loud as in you will know for sure that it is the actual cooler?


It's more like 100% if it's your unit







Yes, I think you will know it's the cooler by the sound it makes. My noise is not constant but all of a sudden it appears so it's easy to notice something is nosier than normal.


----------



## streetwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> That's still weird as the temperature of a radiator should be directly related to air flow, regardless of ambient.
> I found in my setup, with a 25C ambient, that neither intake or exhaust really produced better temps.
> However, by upping the fan speed from low to high, I noticed a 10C drop in temps during stress tests. This is as exhaust.


I go one step further cooling my rig. I run some duct tubing from an a/c vent up to the top of my case so the cool air is sucked in. My CPU temp at idle is about 25c and the cores average about 32c at idle. At full load cores reach no higher than 80c on average,

I've been using this a/c trick for years in the summer time. In Winter I will pull in cold air from a small unheated attic that is right behind my machine. I never had an problems doing any of this. Some folks warned me about things like water vapor getting into my machine but it just never happened. And if it ever does and fry my machine I have a good excuse, to my wife, for building a new rig. Yes I am Pu$$y Whipped as they say. Part of married life.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stefy*
> 
> So 1% of the units are affected? Is the sound very loud as in you will know for sure that it is the actual cooler?


Whatever percentage you see from Corsair is the percentage of people who actually knew they had a problem.

Many people will go on using the unit with the noise. Thinking it is completely normal and just deal with it.

I know this because I did for several months.

The first unit I got sounded like someone tapping a pen against glass or metal constantly. Returned.

Second one sounded like a very low buzz noise. Fans on high would mask it, but I wanted near silent low speed on the fans and the noise was pretty audible over the fans.

Fixed the second one after several months with a fan adapter and the noise being gone is very noticeable. Much more quieter.

I also have an Antec Khuler 620 on my GPU and it ran quiet right out of the box, first time.


----------



## streetwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Whatever percentage you see from Corsair is the percentage of people who actually knew they had a problem.
> Many people will go on using the unit with the noise. Thinking it is completely normal and just deal with it.
> I know this because I did for several months.
> The first unit I got sounded like someone tapping a pen against glass or metal constantly. Returned.
> Second one sounded like a very low buzz noise. Fans on high would mask it, but I wanted near silent low speed on the fans and the noise was pretty audible over the fans.
> Fixed the second one after several months with a fan adapter and the noise being gone is very noticeable. Much more quieter.
> I also have an Antec Khuler 620 on my GPU and it ran quiet right out of the box, first time.


"Fixed the second one after several months with a fan adapter". What did you do exactly.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> How do you prevent dust in that case?
> Do you use 240mm DECMi filters?


Went with two 120mm magnetic filters from Silverstone, lift right off to vacuum, they are awesome.

http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Filter-Magnet-Cooling-FF122/dp/B006RD0U54/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1345998041&sr=1-1&keywords=silverstone+magnetic+fan+filter

You get a more stable seating over the eight H100 mounts if you dremel the elevated tabs down smooth, then just the magnets hold them tight to the chassis.

I tried all 6 possible configurations with the H100.

Best was Push/Pull intake, second best which I stayed with is Pull Intake. The photo below is Push-Intake (showing the fan filters) it is slightly louder and impossible to clean the fans when they are juxtapositioned between the radiator and chassis.










Pull-Intake is easiest to live with, 2nd best config thermally, and the quietest of all 6 configurations.

Also from my photo gallery, there was one try with the Corsair SP-120 fans Quiet Editions, they look really nice, but are a few steps down on the efficiency scale from the Noctuas, and they are NOT PWM fans.

Getting my 4 NF-F12s airbrushed RED and BLACK, a thin micro-coat of paint as to not disrupt the overall characteristics of the fans, but that's pretty extreme, if you don't mind the color, stick with them. If you are not too picky about temps, go with the Corsairs. Just notice they are an asymmetric design front to back, so you do not get the cool looking colored rings when you flip them over for a PULL config.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> That's still weird as the temperature of a radiator should be directly related to air flow, regardless of ambient.
> I found in my setup, with a 25C ambient, that neither intake or exhaust really produced better temps.
> However, by upping the fan speed from low to high, I noticed a 10C drop in temps during stress tests. This is as exhaust.


It is related to airflow volume yes, yet a more determining factor is the temperature of the air moving into and thru your radiator.

I am only speaking about idle temps, since I do my work for hours a day at idle temps, that is more important in my situation, not stress tests. But I see your point and agree.

Also, the ambient temperature across a 20 foot room is unimportant. The temperature of the air flowing directly into your H100 from above is directly related to your radiator and CPU temps.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *streetwolf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Whatever percentage you see from Corsair is the percentage of people who actually knew they had a problem.
> Many people will go on using the unit with the noise. Thinking it is completely normal and just deal with it.
> I know this because I did for several months.
> The first unit I got sounded like someone tapping a pen against glass or metal constantly. Returned.
> Second one sounded like a very low buzz noise. Fans on high would mask it, but I wanted near silent low speed on the fans and the noise was pretty audible over the fans.
> Fixed the second one after several months with a fan adapter and the noise being gone is very noticeable. Much more quieter.
> I also have an Antec Khuler 620 on my GPU and it ran quiet right out of the box, first time.
> 
> 
> 
> "Fixed the second one after several months with a fan adapter". What did you do exactly.
Click to expand...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1236923/corsair-h100-h80-h60-noise-grinding-pump-fix-official-corsair-response/1080_30#post_17960020


----------



## Stefy

I have a H80 and there's a small amount of dust which I can't get rid off. How you do guys clean your rads? Also, dust filters? I've never even considered that. Does it affect cooling efficiency?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stefy*
> 
> I have a H80 and there's a small amount of dust which I can't get rid off. *How you do guys clean your rads?* Also, dust filters? I've never even considered that. Does it affect cooling efficiency?


Filters reduce efficiency a little. Not much though. Maybe 1-2C?

*DUST KILLER (Click Image)*


----------



## Stefy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Filters reduce efficiency a little. Not much though. Maybe 1-2C?
> *DUST KILLER (Click Image)*


Oh sexy! Any idea where I can get one in Europe?


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Went with two 120mm magnetic filters from Silverstone, lift right off to vacuum, they are awesome.
> http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Filter-Magnet-Cooling-FF122/dp/B006RD0U54/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1345998041&sr=1-1&keywords=silverstone+magnetic+fan+filter
> You get a more stable seating over the eight H100 mounts if you dremel the elevated tabs down smooth, then just the magnets hold them tight to the chassis.
> I tried all 6 possible configurations with the H100.
> Best was Push/Pull intake, second best which I stayed with is Pull Intake. The photo below is Push-Intake (showing the fan filters) it is slightly louder and impossible to clean the fans when they are juxtapositioned between the radiator and chassis.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pull-Intake is easiest to live with, 2nd best config thermally, and the quietest of all 6 configurations.
> Also from my photo gallery, there was one try with the Corsair SP-120 fans Quiet Editions, they look really nice, but are a few steps down on the efficiency scale from the Noctuas, and they are NOT PWM fans.
> Getting my 4 NF-F12s airbrushed RED and BLACK, a thin micro-coat of paint as to not disrupt the overall characteristics of the fans, but that's pretty extreme, if you don't mind the color, stick with them. If you are not too picky about temps, go with the Corsairs. Just notice they are an asymmetric design front to back, so you do not get the cool looking colored rings when you flip them over for a PULL config.


So why didn't you stick with pull intake? If I understand correctly, pull intake is when the fans are connected below the radiator and pulling cold air into the case?
And which fan is exhaust? The back fan?

I also have the Noctua NF-12F and I don't care about the colour much. The case is under the table, it's not the I look at it like a piece of art.
I use Antec P280 so I can't do push/pull, there's not enough clearance.

How about these filter: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_26_576&products_id=15709

or a couple of these: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_26_576&products_id=12957 (cheaper).


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> So why didn't you stick with pull intake? If I understand correctly, pull intake is when the fans are connected below the radiator and pulling cold air into the case?
> And which fan is exhaust? The back fan?
> I also have the Noctua NF-12F and I don't care about the colour much. The case is under the table, it's not the I look at it like a piece of art.
> I use Antec P280 so I can't do push/pull, there's not enough clearance.
> How about these filter: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_26_576&products_id=15709
> or a couple of these: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_26_576&products_id=12957 (cheaper).


I did stick with Pull-Intake, thought I wrote that down above. "second best which I stayed with is Pull Intake."









Yes the rear NF-F12 is a rear exhaust, the only exhaust. CM200mm front intake and H100 NF-F12(x2) top intake.

I cannot do Push/Pull with my chassis properly either, not with both banks of fans and a radiator inside the chassis, it hits the mobo heatsinks.

The way I tested Push/Pull was using the current Pull-Intake single bank of fans and adding the second bank on top of the 650D chassis, since it was not meant to be permanent, just postulating an improved thermal value. And I did get that value, back a few pages in this thread, I put up a screenshot, I got an average CPU temp of 22C average for all four cores. Single bank of fans I usually have 27C to 29C as an average posted that also.

Try Pull-Intake if you have not already, see if you don't see lower idle temps.

Think someone was talking earlier here about fan speeds correlating to CPU temps: If you pull a large volume of warm air thru a radiator very fast it's not going to remove much heat just create a lot of noise, the temperature of the air rushing in, or deltaT is what removes the heat from the radiator, not so much the speed or volume of the air.

Sorry again wlw_wl, just have to say something when it seems it might help someone out.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I did stick with Pull-Intake, thought I wrote that down above. "second best which I stayed with is Pull Intake."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes the rear NF-F12 is a rear exhaust, the only exhaust. CM200mm front intake and H100 NF-F12(x2) top intake.


Yep my bad. I thought you stuck to the config as in the image.

So I think I'll do the same as you do but please let me know if you think what I'm describing has any faults.

The case is Antec P280.

One front intake over the HDD/SDD rack. (cooler master fan)
One front inner case intake, which blows air on the GPU. (Xigmatek achilles fan)

2 Noctua NF-12F intake in pull config on top of the case with one of the filters I provided in the link above (with 2x120mm or 1x240mm)

1 Corsair exhaust fan on the back (the same fan that came with the H100).


----------



## MeanBruce

Gil80, I will give you a shout out tomorrow bro, PM'me so we don't take this thread too far off topic, but right now, where I live, we have some heavy winds and rain from hurricane Isaac coming in overnight, so I have to take care of a very cute girl, they love to snuggle during hurricanes...


----------



## wlw wl

First things first, Bruce









Advantages of various fan configs on the H100 aren't off-topic so fell free to continue the conversation.


----------



## christpunchers

Does anyone want to sell their H100 voltage adapter?

I've been looking to silence my H00 for some time but have not had any luck.

Many thanks.


----------



## audioholic

Hey guys,
I am using an h100 and I have a question. I went to overclock my cpu with the Asus auto overclock tool. After several restarts the LEDs on the h100 were off minus the little dude...and then 2 fans shut offf. I just want to make sure there isnt something that went wacky in the BIOS.
Pump is still operational and I had to plug the fans into molex.
Is there anyway to troubleshoot this thing before I send it into RMA? Or is it better just to RMA it?
Thanks


----------



## Gil80

First, remove all asus ai overclock features.
Second, go to the bios and press F5 to default all the auto ai did.

Now is the H100 working? Where did you conect the fans?


----------



## Digikid

Wow WLW you are still making these? LOL!!!!!!!!!!

Sadly I had to sell my system and your adapter accidentally went with it. Making a new system now and am thinking that I MAY need another one.....maybe. Still cannot decide between a H80 or H100 for my Prodigy build.


----------



## Gil80

Wait for H100i


----------



## Digikid

Huh?


----------



## Tomha

God dang it that would be typical wouldn't. It's bitterly disappointing for a fanboy such as myself that corsairs solution appears to be to ditch their h100 customers so to speak and release a h100i to try eliminate these problems. Sure there is nothing concrete, but what ive seen suggests there will actually be a new h100.

I went looking for a diode for my adapter, best I could find was a 1NH004. Put it all together and...nope, nothing. Didn't work.

So this leaves me with no real option other than to either try get mine replace by my retailer, although it will be old stock and they will likely be reluctant to replace it, therefore I will need to get it replaced with Corsair. So can someone answer a few questions for me?
-Am I paying for shipping or is corsair? Shipping to Taiwan is ridiculous for a package like this
-Is UPS meant to contact me because I made a RMA order like 2 months ago and have heard zilch
-Am I going to get a bill in my mail along with the replacement for $100 of customs tax or something stupid like that?

Being in New Zealand makes customer care from any international company an absolute b**** =/


----------



## Gil80

Corsair pays for everything.

I live in Sydney and the item arrived after 2 days since I was issued with RMA.
The new unit is silent. Be sure to select advanced RMA.


----------



## Tomha

So if I cancel my 2 month old pretty dead RMA and get a new one just to clear things up, I want an advanced RMA, and UPS is supposed to contact me? If Corsair ships it off and I don't hear from UPS regarding them getting my defective unit then 2 weeks later ill end up with a $220 bill on my card which I can't afford right now.

The shipping label corsair provides, is that like a prepaid ticket? So if I dont hear from UPS can I take it to my local depot all boxed up (I assume I'm still having to package it all), with the shipping label provided and all is sorted?


----------



## FloppyNL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomha*
> 
> God dang it that would be typical wouldn't. It's bitterly disappointing for a fanboy such as myself that corsairs solution appears to be to ditch their h100 customers so to speak and release a h100i to try eliminate these problems.


Yeah, they've lost me as customer from this type of products, the way they handled this problem is just pathetic, as it's going on for like what, a year now? And you can still buy a new one and have the same bloody issue.. No Corsair for me anymore.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomha*
> 
> So if I cancel my 2 month old pretty dead RMA and get a new one just to clear things up, I want an advanced RMA, and UPS is supposed to contact me? If Corsair ships it off and I don't hear from UPS regarding them getting my defective unit then 2 weeks later ill end up with a $220 bill on my card which I can't afford right now.
> The shipping label corsair provides, is that like a prepaid ticket? So if I dont hear from UPS can I take it to my local depot all boxed up (I assume I'm still having to package it all), with the shipping label provided and all is sorted?


Get an advanced RMA.
Call UPS HQ in your city and tell them that you have a UPS prepaid label and that you want to arrange a parcel pickup.
This should be free of charge - this is what I did last week for H100 RMA.
Make sure you pack it well.
Corsair won't provide, from some reason, a customs deceleration form, so make one.

This is how it should look like:

ATTENTION EXPORT UPS

Name: Last Name: Mobile Number:

Address:

Suburb: Postal Code:

State:

Country:

Contents: Corsair CPU water cooling kit H100

Country Of Origin: China

Value for Customs:

$20

Tracking Number:

(provided on your UPS prepaid label.

Signature: Date:

And that's it.


----------



## Tomha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Corsair won't provide, from some reason, a customs deceleration form, so make one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ATTENTION EXPORT UPS
> 
> Name: Last Name: Mobile Number:
> Address:
> Suburb: Postal Code:
> State:
> Country:
> Contents: Corsair CPU water cooling kit H100
> Country Of Origin: China
> Value for Customs:
> $20
> Tracking Number:
> (provided on your UPS prepaid label.
> Signature: Date:
> 
> 
> And that's it.


So I just print that out and attach it to the prepaid label or what? (Sorry if I'm missing obvious things here), and will the customs value be the same across countries or do I need to find out a specific price for NZ (and if so how would I do this).

Hey and thanks for the help


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FloppyNL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tomha*
> 
> God dang it that would be typical wouldn't. It's bitterly disappointing for a fanboy such as myself that corsairs solution appears to be to ditch their h100 customers so to speak and release a h100i to try eliminate these problems.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, they've lost me as customer from this type of products, the way they handled this problem is just pathetic, as it's going on for like what, a year now? And you can still buy a new one and have the same bloody issue.. No Corsair for me anymore.
Click to expand...

Same here. The only 2 products of 6 Corsair products I owned were any good.

2 dead SSDs in a couple months (I ran another brand SSD in that same rig for a year), 1 "lawn mower" H100, 1 "buzzing" H100, and 2 good power supplies.

So that's a failure rate, for me, of 67%.

What is their fantastic solution on *BOTH the Corsair Force 3 SSDs and H100s ?!*

Continue selling bad products and release a "newer, better" FIXED version of the same product to generate more profits.

I would not recommend Corsair to anyone.









Their power supplies may be good, but I can always get a better-ish SeaSonic branded PSU. That by the way is probably why their PSU line is any good... they are actually made by SeaSonic (except a couple of them).
Quote:


> VX550, TX750 & 850, HX1000 are CWT. The rest are Seasonic.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Same here. The only 2 products of 6 Corsair products I owned were any good.
> 2 dead SSDs in a couple months (I ran another brand SSD in that same rig for a year), 1 "lawn mower" H100, 1 "buzzing" H100, and 2 good power supplies.
> So that's a failure rate, for me, of 67%.
> What is their fantastic solution on *BOTH the Corsair Force 3 SSDs and H100s ?!*
> Continue selling bad products and release a "newer, better" FIXED version of the same product to generate more profits.
> I would not recommend Corsair to anyone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Their power supplies may be good, but I can always get a better-ish SeaSonic branded PSU. That by the way is probably why their PSU line is any good... they are actually made by SeaSonic (except a couple of them).


Regarding SSD - except Intel who took care of the sand force controller, Corsair, OCZ and another brand, used an unstable controller which caused a lot of SSD to drop dead. My new OCZ SSD died after 24 hours of use.
OCZ has the highest RMA when in comes to SSD.

So focus on the H100 which is really faulty unit. The rest, are like many brands, some are faulty some are amazing.
Don't forget the huge mistake Intel did with the new Ivy Bridge. Instead of soldering the thermal case to the CPU chip, they used a low quality thermal past.... and they don't comment about it. At least Corsair admitted the issue and provides excellent RMA... so keep things in proportion.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomha*
> 
> So I just print that out and attach it to the prepaid label or what? (Sorry if I'm missing obvious things here), and will the customs value be the same across countries or do I need to find out a specific price for NZ (and if so how would I do this).
> Hey and thanks for the help


You stick the UPS label on the packaging with the customs notice.
When I asked the UPS delivery guy, he just told me to put $20, even though I told him what I'm shipping.
Make sure to keep the parcel open for the UPS delivery inspection. They must by law inspect the package, though my guy was in such hurry, he didn't care, he believed me









I believe you can write $50 and it will pass with no issues, but can't guarantee it.

Also, in my case, they UPS delivery guy had no time to wait for me printing the customs notice so he gave me an email address to send the customs notice.
That's the address: [email protected] with the subject "ATTENTION EXPORT UPS".
So just in case and you have the same scenario, you'd know what to do.

No worries







glad to help out!


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Same here. The only 2 products of 6 Corsair products I owned were any good.
> 2 dead SSDs in a couple months (I ran another brand SSD in that same rig for a year), 1 "lawn mower" H100, 1 "buzzing" H100, and 2 good power supplies.
> So that's a failure rate, for me, of 67%.
> What is their fantastic solution on *BOTH the Corsair Force 3 SSDs and H100s ?!*
> Continue selling bad products and release a "newer, better" FIXED version of the same product to generate more profits.
> I would not recommend Corsair to anyone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Their power supplies may be good, but I can always get a better-ish SeaSonic branded PSU. That by the way is probably why their PSU line is any good... they are actually made by SeaSonic (except a couple of them).
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding SSD - except Intel who took care of the sand force controller, Corsair, OCZ and another brand, used an unstable controller which caused a lot of SSD to drop dead. My new OCZ SSD died after 24 hours of use.
> OCZ has the highest RMA when in comes to SSD.
> 
> So focus on the H100 which is really faulty unit. The rest, are like many brands, some are faulty some are amazing.
> Don't forget the huge mistake Intel did with the new Ivy Bridge. Instead of soldering the thermal case to the CPU chip, they used a low quality thermal past.... and they don't comment about it. At least Corsair admitted the issue and provides excellent RMA... so keep things in proportion.
Click to expand...

Intel's Ivy Bridge wasn't a mistake. It was a design choice and did not affect the product's workability. It is very usable at stock speeds, and I have seen plenty of IBs overclocked more than SandyBridges.

The SSD fiasco is a personal experience. I did not mind when 1 died 6 months in. But the 2nd one died just 3 months later.

I can't comment on the company as a whole, but I can say I would not personally recommend their products anymore.


----------



## burningrave101

I just ordered an H80 from Amazon here a couple of weeks ago to install in my FT03 build and the thing is driving me nuts with the noise. It is bad enough that the stock fans are as loud as they are but the pump is making a loud non-stop grinding noise that sounds like a dieing hard drive being constantly accessed.

It made me mad enough that I hit the back of the motherboard tray behind the H80 and it actually makes it stop for about 4-5 minutes lol.

I'm going to send it back to Amazon for a refund and I don't know if I'll buy the H80i when it comes out or not because outside of power supplies I haven't been impressed with the last several Corsair products I've owned.


----------



## christpunchers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christpunchers*
> 
> Does anyone want to sell their H100 voltage adapter?
> I've been looking to silence my H00 for some time but have not had any luck.
> Many thanks.


Anyone?


----------



## wlw wl

Hey guys,
I'm currently out of town until weekend/next week, so I will be going through the PMs then, and compiling the list for more adapters if people still want them.

Those of you who have ordered the adapters - don't worry, I made them before leaving and left them with my wife and she sent them already, so expect delivery.

For those of you who need to RMA their cooler - go to the first post of this thread, up top there's a link to CorsairGeorge's instructions on how to get a selective (and possibly advance) RMA, where you don't have to pay for the shipping and you will get the supposedly corrected 1227+ unit.
This will work better than just submiting and RMA ticket.


----------



## streetwolf

I ordered one of wlw wl's adapters last week and I am hoping to get it on Friday (Aug 31). When I install it I will give you my results. Since my noise is intermittent I will have to give it at least one full day of testing and maybe even two.

OT to wlw wl. Is your avatar your kid? He/she is a cutey.


----------



## Konata Izumi

Just wanted to make a post since both of my H70's had the same problem, last week corsair told me they're going to upgrade me to an H80 and they also sent me a prepaid ups shipping label and my H70 will arrive there tomorrow. I have to say, Corsair's customer service is pretty darn good, even the first RMA was quick and painless, so hats off to them.


----------



## Digikid

Dammit my new H100 is one of the noisey ones.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Corsair pays for everything.
> I live in Sydney and the item arrived after 2 days since I was issued with RMA.
> The new unit is silent. Be sure to select advanced RMA.


Gil, sent you back a PM, on your H100 temps. Hope it got there could not find it in my Sent box. Anyway the temps I posted here have all been with a CPU level up of 4.2Ghz and a memory level up or o/c of 2133Mhz and a Vcore of 1.282volts.


----------



## MReda

@wlw wl

WOW thnks a lot, you just saved my ass, I just received my H100 today, and as soon as I turned on the system I noticed the very annoying pump noise, I used the diode fix and it worked like a charm







. RMA wasn't an option because it would've cost me a lot in shipping, and it's just too much of a hassle.
I used 2 1n4007 diodes. My RPM is now between 1715-1795, is that safe? I could remove 1 diode and the RPM would rise to around 1950, but I guess that would also mean more noise.
BTW this is my first post.









P.S Is there a way to disable the white LED on the pump?, its really annoying and it's not going well with my red & black theme.


----------



## pvt.joker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MReda*
> 
> P.S Is there a way to disable the white LED on the pump?, its really annoying and it's not going well with my red & black theme.


Electrical tape or some carbon fiber wrap might do the trick..


----------



## MReda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pvt.joker*
> 
> Electrical tape or some carbon fiber wrap might do the trick..


Do you mean apply it from the outside, or is there a way to open the pump and rap the LED in electrical tape?, without voiding the warranty of course.


----------



## pvt.joker

obviously if you open it, you void the warranty. I was thinking just cover the pump top housing. cut out the center so you can still adjust the fan speed, but it'd block out the white led..


----------



## MReda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pvt.joker*
> 
> obviously if you open it, you void the warranty. I was thinking just cover the pump top housing. cut out the center so you can still adjust the fan speed, but it'd block out the white led..


Oh, thanks.
I thought there was a way to reach the LEDs without interfering with the loop or voiding the warranty, as there's no seal or anything.


----------



## Zeus

I got a H100 this week and installed tonight and I've got the pump noise.


----------



## MReda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeus*
> 
> I got a H100 this week and installed tonight and I've got the pump noise.


No worries, just do the diode fix, it'll take you less than 5 minutes.


----------



## Gil80

Does anyone here had an experience with Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme? What do you think is better? This one or the H100?


----------



## aln688

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Does anyone here had an experience with Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme? What do you think is better? This one or the H100?


Ha, I wondered the same thing. The Newegg reviews aren't too bad:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106190

Personally I'd like to try the Coolermaster Eisberg, it seems a much better quality kit.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aln688*
> 
> Ha, I wondered the same thing. The Newegg reviews aren't too bad:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106190
> Personally I'd like to try the Coolermaster Eisberg, it seems a much better quality kit.


Is the Eisberg out yet?


----------



## aln688

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Is the Eisberg out yet?


It was announced in May this year then after that announcement, no product, no news. I saw a post that indicated it's available in Europe now (_although I don't see anywhere that sells it_), and will be available in the US sometime in October. This is all speculation and rumour though, only Coolermaster really knows. If it did come out I'd likely buy one seeing as it looks much more of an "industrial" type kit.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aln688*
> 
> Personally I'd like to try the Coolermaster Eisberg, it seems a much better quality kit.


You can get a custom water cooling kit for less than this thing... who would buy this?!

The one thing the H100 has going for it is price. It is actually a bit below a custom setup price. So it's like an expensive, convenient, good working "air cooler". It is suppose to be silent but the pump can obviously be very noisy, and the fans at 100% or even medium speed are fairly darn loud.


----------



## aln688

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> You can get a custom water cooling kit for less than this thing... who would buy this?!


Someone who can't be bothered, doesn't have the time, or lacks the skills to setup a custom-loop. I'd imagine the same people who'd buy an H100.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aln688*
> 
> Someone who can't be bothered, doesn't have the time, or lacks the skills to setup a custom-loop. I'd imagine the same people who'd buy an H100.


You had the time and skills to set up an entire computer, put every pieces together, hook every cable up, install hard drives, and edit the BIOS... but you can't clamp a couple tubes together?

Please note that I am talking about enthuasists, not the 10 year kid buying a gaming system from Dell (if they even sell those on preconfigured systems, idk).

I see why H100. It's decently priced. This Eisberg thing however, is extremely expensive.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> You had the time and skills to set up an entire computer, put every pieces together, hook every cable up, install hard drives, and edit the BIOS... but you can't clamp a couple tubes together?
> Please note that I am talking about enthuasists, not the 10 year kid buying a gaming system from Dell (if they even sell those on preconfigured systems, idk).
> I see why H100. It's decently priced. This Eisberg thing however, is extremely expensive.


Not so true. Building a computer rig is different then water cooling.

I for example, had a computer since I was a kid back in the 80's. I was exposed to computer hardware during all this time. essentially, motherboards, CPU, RAM, floppy/HDD/CD, computer case, it had an evolution to it so it was natural and easy to follow. So yes, I for one, can build a complex rig and make it look like it's a walk in the park.

However, that being said, water cooling is relatively new and custom water cooling is risky for inexperienced people and more complex then things that we are used to and familiar with. In addition, it requires maintenance, unlike air cooling or water cooling kits.
There are many parts you can customize in water cooling and a range of coolants to choose from and as mentioned, it's risky since you are more prone to leakage if you don't know what you're doing.

It's a DIY for a computer part, not for a computer system. Imagine a DIY for you motherboard


----------



## aln688

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> You had the time and skills to set up an entire computer, put every pieces together, hook every cable up, install hard drives, and edit the BIOS... but you can't clamp a couple tubes together?
> Please note that I am talking about enthuasists, not the 10 year kid buying a gaming system from Dell (if they even sell those on preconfigured systems, idk).
> I see why H100. It's decently priced. This Eisberg thing however, is extremely expensive.


I can imagine there's people out there who can build a PC from parts, but would shy away from water-cooling at the mere thought of it. I'll admit for myself, I can build a PC from parts extremely easy, but custom water-cooling was a whole new arena for me (_still is, at present_). I take your point though, the two (building a PC & water-cooling) are forms of assembly. I think for myself, if the Eisberg is more of a heavy-duty kit, meaning better pump, better radiator (_Alphacool I believe_), then I'd consider buying it.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Not so true. Building a computer rig is different then water cooling.
> I for example, had a computer since I was a kid back in the 80's. I was exposed to computer hardware during all this time. essentially, motherboards, CPU, RAM, floppy/HDD/CD, computer case, it had an evolution to it so it was natural and easy to follow. So yes, I for one, can build a complex rig and make it look like it's a walk in the park.
> However, that being said, water cooling is relatively new and custom water cooling is risky for inexperienced people and more complex then things that we are used to and familiar with. In addition, it requires maintenance, unlike air cooling or water cooling kits.
> There are many parts you can customize in water cooling and a range of coolants to choose from and as mentioned, it's risky since you are more prone to leakage if you don't know what you're doing.
> It's a DIY for a computer part, not for a computer system. Imagine a DIY for you motherboard


I agree.









Personally though, if I had the money for an Eisburg... I would just go custom.

It was a pretty hard choice choosing an H100 over a RASA kit.


----------



## Tomha

How do I turn an existing RMA into an Advanced RMA?


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomha*
> 
> How do I turn an existing RMA into an Advanced RMA?


Contact Corsair via phone after you have submitted your RMA request and give them your RMA number and ask for an advanced RMA. They will put a hold on your CC and ship one out to you if they have them in stock.

In related news:
I just got my H100 RMA in the mail yesterday via UPS 3-day. Overall it seemed to take 2-weeks from when I sent mine out to when I received one back, but only 8 days from when they received mine to have one at my door. They were also backordered when I had phoned them previously so this may also be why it was a bit longer. Overall though so far the process has been super easy. Here are the photos of the way the new one was shipped. No problems with adequate packaging for sure.

Manufacture number on this one is 12299403. Seems like the latest one I've seen so far. On the phone they were adamant that I receive one that definitely did not have the grinding issue. They seemed like they really wanted to make sure I got one of the newer ones.

I'll be installing it this week and will let you all know how it goes.


----------



## wlw wl

streetwolf - Yes that's my kid, but that photo is about 3 years old now, but I like it very much









MReda -
_My RPM is now between 1715-1795, is that safe?_ - Yes.
_Is there a way to disable the white LED on the pump?_ - Not without voiding the warranty, you can always put some black sticker on it to block the light. You can remove the top cover and apply it from the inside, the cover is mounted on plastic tabs, maybe I'll find a photo of it later so you know where to press to take it off.

AerieAngel - Haven't you already replaced the unit like 17 times, getting 15 Vengeance headsets in the process?


----------



## jpang

ugh, went through the process specified by George only to receive an old noisy H80 (lot 1210).

WIll I have to go through them putting another hold on my card each time i go through this?


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> AerieAngel - Haven't you already replaced the unit like 17 times, getting 15 Vengeance headsets in the process?


Nah... this is my first. I do have a Corsair Vengeance headset that I bought, but have yet to open though.
I just got it hooked up this afternoon (the H100). It has a clicking noise, but not the grinding noise. It could be air in the loop perhaps. I do have the radiator lower than the pump so that could be it, but the Corsair 600t case can't mount the H100 in the top... :/


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

H100 does fit in the 600T roof. Loads of people have done it.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> H100 does fit in the 600T roof. Loads of people have done it.


You would have to use the vent holes as screw holes in the top and even then you prolly would be very close with the fans unless you have low profile RAM. In my particular motherboard the 8pin cpu power connector is also in the way. Quite a common place for it so it can't be just this one mobo. Yes, I could do it, but no, it isn't a stock install, and reduces performance as some air will be blocked because of mounting it closer to the side panel to clear the RAM.

Well, I guess you could always have the top fans be intake. Then there is no problem


----------



## Gil80

This is very strange... I've connected the H100 fans in pull. Before it was push... but the temps will not change no matter if it's pull or push and high RPM or not... I'm using RealTemp.

How can this be???

also, I just got new 2 cougar vortex fans and they have this annoying grinding noise... I have no luck with cooling devices...


----------



## Zeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MReda*
> 
> No worries, just do the diode fix, it'll take you less than 5 minutes.


Well, the diode trick did the job. The pump runs at 1960 +/- 100rpm (from 2100 +/- 100rpm) and no noise.

I did try a Schottky diode first as that's all the local store had in stock. It work to start with but once the pump warmed up the noise started again









However, a friend came to the rescue







She had a few 1N4001 diodes laying around that I could have. And they appear to sorted it out. After 30mins of Prime still no noise


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> This is very strange... I've connected the H100 fans in pull. Before it was push... but the temps will not change no matter if it's pull or push and high RPM or not... I'm using RealTemp.
> How can this be???


First off, motherboard temperature sensors are horrible. They don't mean anything. The only thing they really can be used for is temperature trending. So if the temperature is going up or if it is going down. The actual number really is pretty useless.

Having said that... the H100 is pretty efficient. I imagine you would have similar temps with wither a push or pull setup especially if you are close to ambient already. My temps hold steady with a push or pull setup as well. I hesitate to give a number as it is meaningless, but it is 26ºC. Having both push and pull I might get 25ºC. I should also note that I have my radiator inside of my case at the end of my graphics cards.


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> AerieAngel - Haven't you already replaced the unit like 17 times, getting 15 Vengeance headsets in the process?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nah... this is my first. I do have a Corsair Vengeance headset that I bought, but have yet to open though.
> I just got it hooked up this afternoon (the H100). It has a clicking noise, but not the grinding noise. It could be air in the loop perhaps. I do have the radiator lower than the pump so that could be it, but the Corsair 600t case can't mount the H100 in the top... :/
Click to expand...

Oh okay, I confused you with someone else, sorry.

And yes, you can mount the H100 in a 600T without offsetting it to the side, but you put the radiator inside and the fans above it, under the top cover. I did that myself. It's a good idea to cut the plastic cross-beams from the top cover because they block most of the air flow.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> And yes, you can mount the H100 in a 600T without offsetting it to the side, but you put the radiator inside and the fans above it, under the top cover. I did that myself. It's a good idea to cut the plastic cross-beams from the top cover because they block most of the air flow.


Yes and I guess either have a pull fan configuration or push as an intake at the top... Either way I'm not sure temps would change much. It is hard to break my attachment to "bottom front = intake & back top = exhaust" though haha.


----------



## MeanBruce

Hey guys, this info is probably better suited for another thread, but I really don't come here much just to say hi to wlw_wl once in a while.

Found this amazing little SSD tweak called RAM-Caching and gave it a try. Anyone with an SSD can use it.

This 1st screenshot is the normal Intel 520 120GB Read/Write speeds and in the 2nd I allocated 6GB of my 8GB of RAM to the SSD READ speeds, with the RAM-Cache tweak. I allocated zero RAM to Write speeds, that is why they remained the same.



















If you wish to increase the overall responsiveness of your rig, this is a very simple method.

Enjoy!


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Hey guys, this info is probably better suited for another thread, but I really don't come here much just to say hi to wlw_wl once in a while.
> Found this amazing little SSD tweak called RAM-Caching and gave it a try. Anyone with an SSD can use it.
> This 1st screenshot is the normal Intel 520 120GB Read/Write speeds and in the 2nd I allocated 6GB of my 8GB of RAM to the SSD READ speeds, with the RAM-Cache tweak. I allocated zero RAM to Write speeds, that is why they remained the same.
> If you wish to increase the overall responsiveness of your rig, this is a very simple method.
> Enjoy!


Yep, RAM Disks are great... even better so when they are used as a primary disk cache. I would say though NOT to do this unless you have your computer on battery backup. If you lose power you could end up with an unbootable OS or at the very least lost data.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Yep, RAM Disks are great... even better so when they are used as a primary disk cache. I would say though NOT to do this unless you have your computer on battery backup. If you lose power you could end up with an unbootable OS or at the very least lost data.


I have lost power many times during the latest tropical storm and had no issues at all, the software remembers your settings and reboots right into them.

Here is the free trial download guys:

http://www.superspeed.com/download/trialversions.php

SuperCache 5 64-bit


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> This is very strange... I've connected the H100 fans in pull. Before it was push... but the temps will not change no matter if it's pull or push and high RPM or not... I'm using RealTemp.
> How can this be???
> also, I just got new 2 cougar vortex fans and they have this annoying grinding noise... I have no luck with cooling devices...


Don't know Gil, this is mine at 4.2Ghz/2133Mhz Vcore is 1.282 and Pull-Intake:










Could move your rig to a colder portion of your office or room where the refrigerated air exhausts out and direct it straight into the top of your chassis, that might help bro.

Why do my two inner cores run so hot and my outer cores so much cooler, is that just the physical nature of the Ivy nano-topography? Does everyone's 3770K follow this same pattern? weird...

Try this hardware monitor Gil, and see what you come up with:

http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I have lost power many times during the latest tropical storm and had no issues at all, the software remembers your settings and reboots right into them.t


Then you got lucky and it occured while nothing was being used in cache or at least nothing that was being changed. The nature of RAM disks are in themselves volatile. I agree there are great speed improvements, but that doesn't negate the risk. Though if there wasn't some risk there wouldn't be any improvement of speed. The software could be double writing, but that would defeat the purpose.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Oh okay, I confused you with someone else, sorry.
> And yes, you can mount the H100 in a 600T without offsetting it to the side, but you put the radiator inside and the fans above it, under the top cover. I did that myself. It's a good idea to cut the plastic cross-beams from the top cover because they block most of the air flow.


I guess I spoke too soon. I have the hard drive activity noise coming from the pump now. It is the date code of 12299403 too... so it is only 5 weeks old, but still has the same problem. I can not make it go away by tapping it and 2 diodes only make it a lot worse. I expect it to go full on grinding after a couple weeks. It is really annoying... loudest thing in my case.

Oh and I relocated the H100 radiator to the top of 600t. I did indeed have to offset it toward the side panel though to clear Corsair Vengeance RAM and actually had to bend part of the Vengeance RAM's heatsink so the the fan blades would spin properly and not get hung up.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Check your mounting. I thought my last unit was faulty but after checking the mounting and realising that it was slightly loose, which caused it to vibrate and sound like hdd activity noise, I wiggled the mount and tightened it and it's been dead silent since.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Then you got lucky and it occured while nothing was being used in cache or at least nothing that was being changed. The nature of RAM disks are in themselves volatile. I agree there are great speed improvements, but that doesn't negate the risk. Though if there wasn't some risk there wouldn't be any improvement of speed. The software could be double writing, but that would defeat the purpose.


I'll put an UPS into the circuit just to be safe, the speed is addictive. Thanks man.


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Hey guys, this info is probably better suited for another thread, but I really don't come here much just to say hi to wlw_wl once in a while.



















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Oh okay, I confused you with someone else, sorry.
> And yes, you can mount the H100 in a 600T without offsetting it to the side, but you put the radiator inside and the fans above it, under the top cover. I did that myself. It's a good idea to cut the plastic cross-beams from the top cover because they block most of the air flow.
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I spoke too soon. I have the hard drive activity noise coming from the pump now. It is the date code of 12299403 too... so it is only 5 weeks old, but still has the same problem. I can not make it go away by tapping it and 2 diodes only make it a lot worse. I expect it to go full on grinding after a couple weeks. It is really annoying... loudest thing in my case.
> 
> Oh and I relocated the H100 radiator to the top of 600t. I did indeed have to offset it toward the side panel though to clear Corsair Vengeance RAM and actually had to bend part of the Vengeance RAM's heatsink so the the fan blades would spin properly and not get hung up.
Click to expand...

Or try mounting the CPU block rotated by 90 degrees to either side and see if that changes anything.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or try mounting the CPU block rotated by 90 degrees to either side and see if that changes anything.


hmm... as of right now the HDD activity sound is not going. I have had it running for a couple hours with the radiator mounted in the top. I think there is something with mounting it in the front or otherwise below the pump as there is no way to bleed or see how much liquid is actually in the unit so it may be pulling air from the top of the radiator in those situations.

I currently have the unit mounted so that the corsair logo is upright and the tubing comes out toward the front of the case.


----------



## AerieAngel

Oh and something worth noting to everyone...
Apparently the new units run at 1800 rpm according to BIOS readings whereas the older ones it was like 2000 2230 or greater on mine and some other people's.

UPDATE:
Apparently that was a wrong reading. It appears to be 2166 rpm almost always with a slight bump up to 2170 or 2180 very occasionally. Still below the old ones though.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> This is very strange... I've connected the H100 fans in pull. Before it was push... but the temps will not change no matter if it's pull or push and high RPM or not... I'm using RealTemp.
> How can this be???
> also, I just got new 2 cougar vortex fans and they have this annoying grinding noise... I have no luck with cooling devices...
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know Gil, this is mine at 4.2Ghz/2133Mhz Vcore is 1.282 and Pull-Intake:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could move your rig to a colder portion of your office or room where the refrigerated air exhausts out and direct it straight into the top of your chassis, that might help bro.
> 
> Why do my two inner cores run so hot and my outer cores so much cooler, is that just the physical nature of the Ivy nano-topography? Does everyone's 3770K follow this same pattern? weird...
> 
> Try this hardware monitor Gil, and see what you come up with:
> 
> http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/
Click to expand...

Hi Bruce.

The temps you are showing are for idle.
This is less of a concern to me.
What are your temps in load?
And if you are running at 4.2 with 1.282 then you can go up to 4.5 without increasing heat.

I run at 4.5 with 1.216 Vcore and we have the same CPU and I think the same motherboard.

I find hard to believe that the fans has no affect on the radiator. I lost my confidende in H100 altogether now.

I will either buy thermaltake extreme or coolermaster eisberg in the future.
The only cavett is that the Antec P280 is mid tower.
The H100 radiator with fans is 5cm. I have only 0.5cm of space between the fans and the MB. Any thicker radiator and I'm seriously stuck.

P.S. I have set my case for positive air pressure. Only the back fan is exhaust. I bought 2 new Cougar vortex fans and they are loud as f***. Don't buy them.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Hello!
> *UPDATE:*
> *For official Corsair response start here and read on.*
> *Official instructions on how to apply for a selective RMA (advanced RMA available per request) here.*
> Big thanks to CorsairGeorge for speaking up and out!
> /update
> I'm new here but I've heard from a long-time user s1rrah that there might be some people here interested in fixing their noisy Corsair Hydro coolers.
> Some of those units make HDD-like grinding or rattling noise, if you have one you know what I'm talking about.
> The simplest cure to that noise is to slow down the pump a bit so the impeller stops rattling. Mind you that this is only patching the symptom of an underlaying issue, one that neither me or you can address at present.
> *Update*: check out the CorsairGeorge's posts in this thread, link at the beginning of this post. The cause has been confirmed to be a shaft/bearing issue which results in rattle under certain circumstances (which I will humbly mention that I have suggested some months ago here), one of them being the voltage to speed correlation, and that is why the diode adapter works - because it slows the pump and puts it out of that resonance/rattle RPM range, without impacting the cooling performance.
> The issue had been fixed and the new, corrected units are being delivered to Corsair locations.
> */update*
> There are several methods do fix that.
> One is to use a big 4-pin Molex fan controller in case of H100 or H80, or motherboard's fan header in case of H60.
> Another, that is my idea, is to use an adapter, dubbed the "voltage dropper" by the Corsair forum's community, to lower the voltage a little. This is equivalent to running the unit off of a fan controller set to about 90%.
> How is it done? Plain and simple - a rectifying diode soldered in series with +12V line, encased as a male Molex to female Molex pass-through. Or as a 4-pin Molex to 3-pin fan header for H60. Just mind the diode's polarity!
> The thing looks like this:
> http://i39.tinypic.com/72vvns.jpg
> (ed: or more recently like this: http://cdn.overclock.net/e/e1/e12e487e_9.jpeg)
> and is smaller and easier to conceal than a fan controller. And you can sleeve it etc. Also, unlike transistor-based fan controller or a resistor-based adapter, there is no heat generated from this one.
> That is the very first I made, later revisions had the +5V and one GND wires removed so they can be easily told apart from any other adapters.
> One diode handles up to 1A forward current, so if you have H100 with 4 strong fans, you might need two diodes in parallel.
> The only question left is - what diode one should use?
> The simple answer is: any one from the 1N4001 to 1N4007 range. I'm using 1N4001 and it's working in about 90% of the cases or more, hard to keep track of all the droppers I've already sent and those that people made themselves to my guidance.
> I also tried Schottky diodes, 1N5817 and 1N5819, but they didn't work with the H100 I had. Fine without fans, still grinding when 2 fans were attached. That's because the forward voltage of those diodes is lower.
> I've already made and sent tens of those all over the world (North and South America, Australia, Japan, France, Germany, UK and Italy just to name a few) including s1rrah, and like I've said already, they work in >90% of the cases.
> When this will not work is if your cooler is one of the somewhat rarer units that will keep on grinding unless slowed down to 1700RPM and below (from original ~2000RPM). If you combine such a unit with a common 12,3V PSU, one diode is simply not enough. And although there are positive reports, I generally do not encourage running the unit at speeds lower than 1800RPM, and some will keep grinding even below 1700RPM.
> So go ahead and try that if you have a noisy Hydro cooler.
> If you can't or don't want to make it yourself, you can contact me. I've been sending them for weeks every week now, and when I gather 5-10 people and send a batch away.
> The discussion started on Corsair's support forum here:
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=97733
> I chimed in around page 15 with my findings and solution. As of now it has 32 pages, 467 posts, 57,000 views (update: over 100,000 now, the thread has been closed) and there are numerous cases where people have been RMAing their noisy units 3 or 4 times in a row to no avail, and the mod worked for them and they could finally enjoy their cooler.
> If you need more in-depth guidance, feel free to ask.
> You can find a detailed photo step-by-step guide in my albums and my sig.
> ED: update #2


MAY CONSIDER it when i buy a brand new H80 this fall but i doubt it'll be noisy. I am hearing impaired so that's a dilemma but will that be a problem?


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> I find hard to believe that the fans has no affect on the radiator. I lost my confidende in H100 altogether now.


He was only saying that he saw no difference in temps between having the fans in a push configuration vs a pull configuration which makes sense. It is moving the same amount of air. People like to think that cool air force onto things is the only way to cool them and it is hard to think that just simply moving air away from the area draws in ambient as well. The air has got to go somewhere hehe.

As far as fans go I recommend using the Corsair SP120 Performance fans. They are perfect fans for radiators and they come with an optional low voltage adapter that is slick looking (all black and heatshrinked) to reduce the fan speed if you don't have a controller... or if you want to use the controller at significantly lower ranges.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> He was only saying that he saw no difference in temps between having the fans in a push configuration vs a pull configuration which makes sense. It is moving the same amount of air. People like to think that cool air force onto things is the only way to cool them and it is hard to think that just simply moving air away from the area draws in ambient as well. The air has got to go somewhere hehe.
> As far as fans go I recommend using the Corsair SP120 Performance fans. They are perfect fans for radiators and they come with an optional low voltage adapter that is slick looking (all black and heatshrinked) to reduce the fan speed if you don't have a controller... or if you want to use the controller at significantly lower ranges.


Hi,

I'm not talking about the fan configuration only. I say that regardless of the RPM, the temp stays the same.
I bought fans that are designed for radiators in mind - Noctua NF-12F they are amazing fans... ugly.... but amazing


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Hi,
> I'm not talking about the fan configuration only. I say that regardless of the RPM, the temp stays the same.
> I bought fans that are designed for radiators in mind - Noctua NF-12F they are amazing fans... ugly.... but amazing


Yes, same here. I have very little change in temps with rpm speed... especially at idle. I might be able to get temps down 3ºC if I turn from lowest up to highest rpms at idle. At load is a bit harder to calculate... unless you are talking max load then it basically hovers at less than 50ºC no matter the temp. Individual cores fluctuate...

So as long as you got air moving through the radiator... no problems with heating.


----------



## Gil80

Yep... now I wish I didn't buy Antec P280 and those crappy Cougar fans... have to replace them all....

What is you CPU model?


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> MAY CONSIDER it when i buy a brand new H80 this fall but i doubt it'll be noisy. I am hearing impaired so that's a dilemma but will that be a problem?


1. There is no official information about if and when the revised (corrected) units will be on shelves. Maybe they won't ever and the H80 and H100 will be replaced with the rumored H80i and H100i.
2. The "rattling pump" noise isn't very loud, but it is very dominant. It can be heard over even very loud fans and it is quite irritating. Whether you get a noisy unit and whether the noise bothers you - these are two IFs of which the first one is objective and the second one is subjective, so really nobody can answer that for you.


----------



## realWasabi

I just bought an H100 this friday (31/8-2012) and apparently I didn't get one from the new batch as mine is making the rattling noise









I just sent sent an email to RMAservice as instructed by CorsairGeorge, I really hope this will be 'quick and painless'.

Is there any way to see if the one I have is from a early batch?


----------



## MadMax1963

Sorry to hear you unit has problems. you need to check the serial number sticker on the outside of the box since the serial is based on the manufacturing date .

In my case, I recently bought a H100 from amazon, it has the serial # 12269403 and it made no noise, actually it was very quiet but then again since I have not finished building my computer I could not do a full install so I connected the h100 (pump and fans) to an extra power supply I had laying around, still got my fingers crossed that when I do install it I will not have any issues.

Regarding interpreting the serial number in order to understand when your unit was manufactured :

The first 4 digits of the serial number are the manufacturing date, in my case with a serial 12269403...12-was built on 2012, 26- the 26th week of this year, meaning that my unit was built around the last week of June 2012.

What this old means is that the newer your unit, the more chances you will have that it will not have any problems.

Perhaps someone here will post the date when Corsair started shipping the revised versions so you could keep that in mind when you receive your RMA.

Good luck,

MadMax


----------



## aln688

Question - if I've had my H100 replaced once already and it's still making a whining noise, do I reply to the original RMA and request another replacement, or do I create a new case/RMA? Just wondered what others have done in this case.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadMax1963*
> 
> Sorry to hear you unit has problems. you need to check the serial number sticker on the outside of the box since the serial is based on the manufacturing date .
> In my case, I recently bought a H100 from amazon, it has the serial # 12269403 and it made no noise, actually it was very quiet but then again since I have not finished building my computer I could not do a full install so I connected the h100 (pump and fans) to an extra power supply I had laying around, still got my fingers crossed that when I do install it I will not have any issues.
> Regarding interpreting the serial number in order to understand when your unit was manufactured :
> The first 4 digits of the serial number are the manufacturing date, in my case with a serial 12269403...12-was built on 2012, 26- the 26th week of this year, meaning that my unit was built around the last week of June 2012.
> What this old means is that the newer your unit, the more chances you will have that it will not have any problems.
> Perhaps someone here will post the date when Corsair started shipping the revised versions so you could keep that in mind when you receive your RMA.
> Good luck,
> MadMax


That is interesting, i also want to buy one and obviously dont want a rattle one so is there a way to check serial no's or the age of the stock before i buy from a paticular site? Would love to find a shop with them near me.

@wlw is the h100i rumour realisticly possible anytime soon?


----------



## wlw wl

1227 is the first known "revised" batch, I don't know how you could check the lot # in an on-line store, of course you can do that locally.

The i's haven't even been announced in any way so they are rather far off, if that info is true at all.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> 1227 is the first known "revised" batch, I don't know how you could check the lot # in an on-line store, of course you can do that locally.
> The i's haven't even been announced in any way so they are rather far off, if that info is true at all.


Right i see, so its just a case of buying one and if it has 1227 it should be good, if not rma it. But i refuse to try these diode fixes if i do get a dodgy one as i think it should'nt be nessecary and would rather refund it completely.


----------



## wlw wl

Your call.


----------



## JAM3S121

is it normal for the h100 fans to make a whinning/buzzing sound when undervolted? if its at 40% speed on my fan controller (sorry it has sliders i don't know the actual voltage, or at about full speed it doesn't make the sound) but when its in between its making a buzz


----------



## FloppyNL

*SILENCE AT LAST!*

Thank you so much wlw wl, the second adapter did the trick! Now I can finally only hear the fan air movement and every now and then some little noise from my data hdd!

Enjoy a little extra thank you gift


----------



## wlw wl

JAM3S121 - normal? Probably not, but it makes sense, the fans are driven with a modulated voltage so when you change the input voltage, the width of the driving signal will change (this applies to fans which are connected to the H80/H100 itself).

FloppyNL - shouldn't have, but thanks! Glad to hear it's finally working for you


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> is it normal for the h100 fans to make a whinning/buzzing sound when undervolted? if its at 40% speed on my fan controller (sorry it has sliders i don't know the actual voltage, or at about full speed it doesn't make the sound) but when its in between its making a buzz


Yes fans have optimum speeds for noise levels. It isn't uncommon for a certain rpm to resonate a certain buzz. You can try rubber spacers, loosening/tightening the screws, etc.
Also you should make sure that at 40% the fan is actually spinning. If you start your computer with a low fan speed setting the fan might not spin up. I'm not sure how low your fan controller takes them. They make a buzzing noise when just on the verge of starting.


----------



## zbran

hey i just RMA'd my H100 today its batch number was 12xxxxxxx.I know i should have wrote it down but i didnt! i had 2 issues with mine. the fan speed control on the cpu block didnt work,and it also made the grinding noise!

the thing about the grinding was it was'nt constant it jumped in and out! i thought first it maybe air after the install but 4 days later it was still doing it. If i flicked the edge of the block it would stop.

I also tryed the firmeware reset to fix the fans and that changed nothing for me. fans were always stuck at a low rpm setting!


----------



## FloppyNL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> FloppyNL - shouldn't have, but thanks! Glad to hear it's finally working for you


No problem, you earn it for all the effort you put into your service and this thread


----------



## Maximuscr31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> is it normal for the h100 fans to make a whinning/buzzing sound when undervolted? if its at 40% speed on my fan controller (sorry it has sliders i don't know the actual voltage, or at about full speed it doesn't make the sound) but when its in between its making a buzz


I think that is a problem with the fan controller. Majority of people in the phantom 410 thread have faulty fan controllers that do that.Email NZXT and they will send you a new one. I haven't bothered doing mine yet because of rewiring.


----------



## streetwolf

I just received and installed wlw wl's Molex Adapter. My noise was pretty intermittent so it will take a day or two to really see if the noise is gone.

btw... Is there any software programs out there that let you see the radiator fan speeds, pump temp, pump speed, etc.? I have the CorsairLink which allows all of this but it doesn't work under Windows 8 and quite frankly didn't work all that well under Windows 7 (another H Series like fiasco?).


----------



## wlw wl

The pump speed is reported via the single-wire 3-pin fan connector coming out of the H100, as for the Link you need the Link hardware, I understand that you have the controller, if it's connected to the H!00 but doesn't work, well, what can I say







You said it all.


----------



## turkishmafia

Pro-suggestion:

1) RMA Corsair H80/H100
2) Sell Replacement on OCN, Ebay, Amazon, etc
3) Buy Cooler Master Eisberg (rumored to be released in October)
....
4) Profit (well at least in terms of time!)

It will debut for 130/140 Euros for the 120/240 mm radiator versions respectively, but products are usually released 1:1 in terms of price between the US and Europe. In other words, I expect the product to cost $130/$140, which in my opinion is a very fair premium for a product with better cooling and dependability (it's made in Germany).


----------



## wlw wl

Who makes it? Is it better than the Water 2.0 Extreme?


----------



## NAWZ77

Just got a 1226 and there's no sound at all wish me luck so far everything running butter smooth


----------



## streetwolf

Looks like the the H100/H80 voltage adapter I got from wlw wl has solved my noise problem. Sure beats having to get another H100 with no assurance it won't make noise either. Thank you wlw wl for the best 10 bucks I've spent in a long time. If you can't make one yourself because you are electrically challenged like me get one from wlw wl.


----------



## duynguyen1230

Hi Wlw wl,
Would you please send me one? The modded cable? I tried my self many times and it wont work please im begging you!!


----------



## duynguyen1230

I can send you the money to paypal. Please!!


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NAWZ77*
> 
> Just got a 1226 and there's no sound at all wish me luck so far everything running butter smooth


Congrats!







I plan on getting one when scan has them in stock again as they should be the latest batch which are hopefully trouble free


----------



## Faithh

Well batch 1227, doesn't make noise at all when non-mounted but if it's mounted it's making the noise. Nzxt phantom case so

I've loosened the screws and noise is still there.

Received another unit and same issue, but this one even makes some noise when non-mounted.

None of the adapters are working for me.


----------



## streetwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faithh*
> 
> Well batch 1227, doesn't make noise at all when non-mounted but if it's mounted it's making the noise. Nzxt phantom case so
> I've loosened the screws and noise is still there.
> Received another unit and same issue, but this one even makes some noise when non-mounted.
> None of the adapters are working for me.


You said none of the adapters worked for you? Are you talking about the one by wlw wl? If so, did you make it yourself or did you get one from him? As I said earlier I got one made by him and my noise is gone.


----------



## MReda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faithh*
> 
> Well batch 1227, doesn't make noise at all when non-mounted but if it's mounted it's making the noise. Nzxt phantom case so
> 
> I've loosened the screws and noise is still there.
> 
> Received another unit and same issue, but this one even makes some noise when non-mounted.
> 
> None of the adapters are working for me.


Try using two 1n4007 diodes instead of one.


----------



## Faithh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *streetwolf*
> 
> You said none of the adapters worked for you? Are you talking about the one by wlw wl? If so, did you make it yourself or did you get one from him? As I said earlier I got one made by him and my noise is gone.


Adapters from wlw wl ofc.

I used both in series as well, the noise doesnt go away..


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faithh*
> 
> Adapters from wlw wl ofc.
> I used both in series as well, the noise doesnt go away..


Are you sure its seated properly when mounted? when you say some noise, ofc it will make "some" noise its a water pump, what sort of noise is it making? the rattle?


----------



## Faithh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Are you sure its seated properly when mounted? when you say some noise, ofc it will make "some" noise its a water pump, what sort of noise is it making? the rattle?


Yes the rattling. I can hear it very clearly from a meter distance. I've mounted it properly. But if non-mounted, there is no noise at all (connected to psu ofc..)


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faithh*
> 
> Yes the rattling. I can hear it very clearly from a meter distance. I've mounted it properly. But if non-mounted, there is no noise at all (connected to psu ofc..)


Strange if there is no noise when not mounted, when you un mount it, do you test it in the same position it would be in the case? ie rad above the pump and pump sitting vertical? perhaps there is a air bubble trapped in the pump when its positioned in a certain way in the case. You could try moving it around, to try and move the potential air bubble when out of the case.

Im just guessing though


----------



## Faithh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Strange if there is no noise when not mounted, when you un mount it, do you test it in the same position it would be in the case? ie rad above the pump and pump sitting vertical? perhaps there is a air bubble trapped in the pump when its positioned in a certain way in the case. You could try moving it around, to try and move the potential air bubble when out of the case.
> Im just guessing though


The noise disappears when I just take it off the cpu. I have a like 4 intakes. But I have 2 cards in crossfire and one has an arctic xtreme plus 2 cooler. Maybe this can be the cause?


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faithh*
> 
> Adapters from wlw wl ofc.
> I used both in series as well, the noise doesnt go away..


Try running the H100 for 72 hours with the radiator above the pump with the tubing facing down. It could be air or who know what else. I have 1229 and the HDD ticking noise was there when radiator was mounted slightly below the pump vertically, but is not there now when mounted above the pump with the tubes facing down. Other than that... I'm not sure.


----------



## Faithh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Try running the H100 for 72 hours with the radiator above the pump with the tubing facing down. It could be air or who know what else. I have 1229 and the HDD ticking noise was there when radiator was mounted slightly below the pump vertically, but is not there now when mounted above the pump with the tubes facing down. Other than that... I'm not sure.


So just turn the pump by 90° to the right from normal state?


----------



## jpang

Anyone get a silent H80? Went through 3 replacements so far, all from batch 12109402. They all have the noise problem and corsair claims they have been sending me the revised units.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpang*
> 
> Anyone get a silent H80? Went through 3 replacements so far, all from batch 12109402. They all have the noise problem and corsair claims they have been sending me the revised units.


1210 definitely are not revised units. They hadn't even started to work on the problem yet then. I'm guessing H80 go by the same week schedule code as the H100 so that would mean you are looking for at least 1226 though better luck with 1227 and beyond. I have a 1229 H100 and it made the HDD ticking noise for a while at first when I hooked it up but is now silent for the past 3 days. I've had it for about a week or less.


----------



## Konata Izumi

I get my replacement H80 on Monday, I'll report back once I have it installed.


----------



## RoGDoM

That's the way to go, attache the pump to a 4 pin fan controller and play with it, my asus crosshair formula V don't let me ajust pump speed unless it's on " DC" mode not PWM. again with my H60 I could get it near silent at around 80% depending on how a do the transition to that speed! sometimes I get lucky sometimes not, most of the times 60% is totally silent and easy to get, but I decided to position my tower at almost 8 feet away from me (bought 2 long HDMI s of 10 feet each for my dual HD+ monitors and Cross fired cards and a completely wireless strong noise cancelling gaming headset) now I don't care about the pump being a bit audible anymore !! hahaha ( and less electromagnetic radiations exposure from the tower components too).


----------



## wlw wl

Easy with those experiments, we had a unit die here due to some fan controller fun.

I need a couple of brave folks to test a new adapter, I'm sure Faithh will be one







But if some of you guys who had the noise and the diode adapter fixed it, would PM me, that would be nice


----------



## MINT23

Hello, I have read as many post as possible. To try and pin point my issue.

Im hoping someone could shed some light.

I have a Corsair H80 that was purchased from Amazon.co.uk on 4th September 2012, its been running now for a few days and the problems are;

• grinding noise from the pump (but does once in a while stop and sounds ok)
• one fan seems ok (noise level) but the other one is full blast (really loud) all the time. (i have tried the profile reset to no luck)

I have all the lights and working on the H80, can change the profile but does not seem to make any difference.

I wanted to ask if I should go via Amazon.co.uk first or send for RMA to the email for Corsair mentioned in the thread.

If i do advanced RMA do I have to pay?

Also does anyone know of a freephone/tollfree number for Corsair incase i need to speed things up







.

Are RMA ok for UK.

Sorry for all the question and im sure some are mentioned in this thread but im hoping someone could help me out.

If any more information is required, please let me know.

Thanks in advance.

Edit: Just to add after futher testing, I think only one fan works (locked at full speed) but the air flow was making the other one spin


----------



## wlw wl

On top of the rattling pump, the fan controller is clearly broken.
Change the fans order to see if there isn't any issue with the fans.

It's not uncommon for the noise to go away and come back, that's what I call a pump being on the edge.

You should RMA directly to Corsair using the method linked to in the first post of this thread.
If you choose advance RMA, they will put a hold on your credit card until you return the faulty unit. Other than that you won't have to pay anything.

The toll-free number is *+1 888-222-4346*, you can use Skype to call them for free.

Yes, the RMA works for UK.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MINT23*
> 
> Hello, I have read as many post as possible. To try and pin point my issue.
> Im hoping someone could shed some light.
> I have a Corsair H80 that was purchased from Amazon.co.uk on 4th September 2012, its been running now for a few days and the problems are;
> • grinding noise from the pump (but does once in a while stop and sounds ok)
> • one fan seems ok (noise level) but the other one is full blast (really loud) all the time. (i have tried the profile reset to no luck)
> I have all the lights and working on the H80, can change the profile but does not seem to make any difference.
> I wanted to ask if I should go via Amazon.co.uk first or send for RMA to the email for Corsair mentioned in the thread.
> If i do advanced RMA do I have to pay?
> Also does anyone know of a freephone/tollfree number for Corsair incase i need to speed things up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Are RMA ok for UK.
> Sorry for all the question and im sure some are mentioned in this thread but im hoping someone could help me out.
> If any more information is required, please let me know.
> Thanks in advance.
> Edit: Just to add after futher testing, I think only one fan works (locked at full speed) but the air flow was making the other one spin


I would RMA through Corsair using the instructions on the first page. It shouldn't cost you anything, they may apply a hold on a credit card though. RMAs from the UK are fine, I've done it twice. Use Skype to call them and it'll be free.

EDIT: NINJA'D BY wlw wl


----------



## MINT23

Thanks for the super quick responses.

I will go the RMA route as I should have a better chance on getting the new corrected version (fingers crossed).

"On top of the rattling pump, the fan controller is clearly broken.
Change the fans order to see if there isn't any issue with the fans."

Have just swaped the fans over and it seem which ever fan in in the right connector seems to run full speed.

Thanks for your help.


----------



## RoGDoM

Mr WLW Wl ?? I am amazed on how you allowed yourself to EXCLUDE my ideas and my reply to another poster, please keep an open mind and allow people to explore more ideas, I do not need to go the diode route to be able to express myself decently on this forum and get a feedback.from the other users.


----------



## wlw wl

RoGDoM -
Wow, I don't really know where that came from, mate, but anyway, allow me to respond.
Was I supposed to comment further on your post? Very well then:

The "fan controller method" was, I believe, the first one that was proven to work, which I even mentioned in the opening post:
Quote:


> There are several methods do fix that.
> One is to use a big 4-pin Molex fan controller in case of H100 or H80, or motherboard's fan header in case of H60.


I came up with the diode adapter after the initial reports of the fan controller success were reported. (I just mean the time line, not the dependency)

Of course you can't adjust the pump when the controller is in PWM mode, as in this mode it will power it from full 12V, modulating the controlling signal on 4th pin which won't be connected to anything.
You should remember that while H60 has a fan connector to draw its power from, the H80 and H100 are powered from a "generic" 4-pin Molex connector, that's supposed to be plugged directly to the PSU. So you can't just do what you said without an adapter if you have an H80 or H100, one that converts big 4-pin Molex to 3-pin fan header. But then you have to ask yourself if the motherboard fan header (or external fan controller channel) you want to connect it to will be able to handle the constant current, which in case of an H100 with 4 fans can easily exceed 1A?
On top of that you need to make sure that the adjustment is permanent and constant, not variable depending on temperature etc. because, like I mentioned shortly, a few pages back you'll find someone who has just done that - connected his cooler to a motherboard fan header - and it killed the unit dead.
So these are the two big _IF_s with that method.

What you're doing - running the pump at only 60% speed - will probably kill it.

I didn't exclude anything, I just didn't comment on that because I have already said all of this. Also, this thread isn't only about the diode fix as the title clearly states, and everyone is free to discuss anything related to Hydro series noise (or performance) and so they do, nor is it a "Q/A with wlw" where I answer all the questions and comment on every single post, so I don't really understand your point about not having an open mind. If someone wants to comment on your post then I'm sure they'll do, they don't need my approval or permission, do they.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> "Q/A with wlw" where I answer all the questions and comment on every single post, so I don't really understand your point about not having an open mind. If someone wants to comment on your post then I'm sure they'll do, they don't need my approval or permission, do they.


I LoL-ed.

Anyway, as an update... no noise issues reported with the 1229 H100 mounted in the top of the case with tubing facing down. Pump/Block is mounted with the Corsair logo right side up and tubing exiting the block toward the front of the case. I'm thinking an issue that I had was that having the radiator mounted vertically in the front of the case caused air to be pumped through the pump ever to slightly. I don't think the coolant fills up past the tubing inlet and outlets of the radiator if you mount it vertically. I guess that is what you get for buying a closed loop system... really not Corsair's fault as that mounting option is something that would probably be a niche more well suited for custom loops.

Having said all of that I did have to bend out the heatsink on the Corsair Vengeance RAM in order for the H100 to fit in the top of a Corsair 600t. I also had to mount if closer to the side panel and was not able to use the rubber grommeted fan mounting holes in the top. The picture below shows the best out heatsink on the Corsair Vengeance RAM in order for it all to fit.


----------



## wlw wl

The loop always has some air, so if the pump was the highest point in the loop, the air was probably trying to go there all the time. Maybe it wouldn't be an issue if the rad was below the pump, but with the inlet and outlet barbs on the bottom of it, not top. Then the air should get trapped in the rad.
In the H50 pump's design the impeller's chamber doubled as a small reservoir, so the problem was even more pronounced there, especially when you tried to mount it upside down (for example on the GPU).


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> The loop always has some air, so if the pump was the highest point in the loop, the air was probably trying to go there all the time. Maybe it wouldn't be an issue if the rad was below the pump, but with the inlet and outlet barbs on the bottom of it, not top. Then the air should get trapped in the rad.
> In the H50 pump's design the impeller's chamber doubled as a small reservoir, so the problem was even more pronounced there, especially when you tried to mount it upside down (for example on the GPU).


Agreed. Unfortunately, the tubing is not long enough for clever mounting options such as tubing and the bottom. Maybe if you were not using the 5.25 bays you could possibly try mounting kinda there, but then it would be higher than the pump so the issue really wouldn't arise.

I totally agree with the H50 and the GPU thing though. You almost need to create some custom brackets in those instances so that you could mount the radiator on the back of the card.

I'm just glad everything seems to be working (though my ASUS Sabertooth Z77 board needs RMAed AGAIN for a faulty iGPU and multiplier BIOS settings thing that wasn't repaired the first time I RMAed it).

Overall, I'm still really happy with Corsair and I am also thrilled that the Overclock.net community really took this on and especially you wlw wl.

Previous setup with the H100 radiator mounted vertically caused HDD Activity noise issues (although thankfully no grinding like my old H100)... prolly air:


----------



## wlw wl

If there is anyone reading this, who has the rattling pump (HDD sound) and the diode adapter didn't work, please PM me!

If you have a buzzing (electrical sound) H100/H80, please PM me as well!


----------



## twitchyzero

dilemma:

buy H100 for $70AR
or run into loud annoying issues that RMA may never solve the issue

Any response from corsair recently? What are the chances they'll be replacing H100 issues with H100i during RMA?


----------



## wlw wl

AFAIK the H80i and H100i exist only on some leaked Chinese (?) screenshot so far, so don't count on any official word regarding your question.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> AFAIK the H80i and H100i exist only on some leaked Chinese (?) screenshot so far, so don't count on any official word regarding your question.


Agreed... although the pictures presented look to be a redesign, I'm not expecting this to be much more than a rebranding to place these products in line with the ****i products that feature Corsair Link compatibility. Here is overclock.net post regarding the rumor in case anyone is interested.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1297712/mizukicommunity-corsair-900d-godzilla-unveiled#post_18000943
The photo below taken from hardwarebbq.com:
...not sure why the AX1200 is pictured in the corner and not the AX1200i
overall though this is all just rumor.


----------



## wlw wl

I'd wait for more probable information, the unit on that picture looks like 9 months after CoolIT had a one night stand with Asetek.
I'm personally more interested in Accelero Hybrid than in those _i_'s.


----------



## EliteReplay

so, thats how we solve that noise, interesting


----------



## bwebmasta

Update, after the 2nd H100 replacement it has been running solid without the noise for around two months now. The part that sucks? I had to pay $17 to ship the old unit back, as no prepaid label was provided. Corsair should do better on the shipping back and forth of these units, we should not have to pay for shipping defective units.


----------



## MadMax1963

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwebmasta*
> 
> Update, after the 2nd H100 replacement it has been running solid without the noise for around two months now. The part that sucks? I had to pay $17 to ship the old unit back, as no prepaid label was provided. Corsair should do better on the shipping back and forth of these units, we should not have to pay for shipping defective units.


Totally agree with you, in my case I don't think sending the unit back is an option since I live in the Caribbean and would probably have to spend 2 or 3 times more money than you did shipping it back, but at least you got a trouble free unit so be happy for that I guess.

Just out of curiosity, would you happen to know the serial number of the replacement unit??


----------



## MReda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadMax1963*
> 
> Totally agree with you, in my case I don't think sending the unit back is an option since I live in the Caribbean and would probably have to spend 2 or 3 times more money than you did shipping it back, but at least you got a trouble free unit so be happy for that I guess.


Yup, same here, I live outside the US & shipping wasn't an option, that's why I had to use the diode fix.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwebmasta*
> 
> Update, after the 2nd H100 replacement it has been running solid without the noise for around two months now. The part that sucks? I had to pay $17 to ship the old unit back, as no prepaid label was provided. Corsair should do better on the shipping back and forth of these units, we should not have to pay for shipping defective units.


I live in Australia (for the meantime) and I got prepaid UPS label and the UPS delivery man picked up the faulty H100 with no charge. So it's wired you had to spend money.
I received the new H100 after 2 days from a warehouse in China.

wl wlw I'm PM'ing you right now regarding electrical noise with the new H100 :/


----------



## 303869

Electrical noise? Is this some new development/issue caused by the h100?


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Electrical noise? Is this some new development/issue caused by the h100?


guess so... I have it


----------



## wlw wl

I don't think it's that new - sometimes the pump sounds like an old HDD that's being constantly accessed (that's what we call rattling or grinding pump), sometimes it's more of a buzzing/electrical noise, like a coil whine on a GPU or in a PSU, that sort of thing.


----------



## MeanBruce

Gil.
I'm not really sure what your current question is. I've shown you my components, fans, fan rpms, H100 config and thermal results with Core Temp. Often hardware monitors vary, Core Temp, RealTemp, Asus AI Suite 2 all give the same readings, while CPUID HWmonitor gives temps 10C higher than the others. I am using NF-F12s, not cougars, and my chassis Corsair 650D is extremely airy ventilated on top and there are no double and triple layering of mesh like on some chassis, just a single simple steel layer for direct airflow, not like the Corsair 600T which uses two mesh layers of steel and plastic making airflow just that much more difficult to navigate to the H100 rad. A good cooler seating, Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste, I did 6 seatings of my H100 before I found one acceptable and moved to the next step. I worked very slowly during the build took 3days in entirety, but am happy with the results.

The Noctua paste should expel from the tube runny and smooth, the first syringe I received from Newegg was new, yet hard and clumpy, been sitting in their warehouse too damn long. Did not use it, sent it back. Trying to illustrate there are many factors that combine to give you low low idle temps.

If you say idle temps are not important to you Gil, then you are fooling yourself, unless you are running a 24/7 server rig, your pc is going to be in idle mode most of the time not counting gaming sessions.

Low idle temps=lower load temps, all the same factors (and there are many) are going to either work for you or against you.

I have seem enthusiasts buy all the parts, throw a build together in 3 or 4 hours get terrible results, then get pissed off and send everything back. Some folks need to find a little more patience when building, and do some solid reading before the components arrive.

Try Core Temp HW monitor, see what you get, if you are really wanting the most out of your H100 then take it back to square one and restart, reseat your H100 per this guide:

After laying your chassis down, place a small amount of TIM 3/5ths vertically Top to Bottom, North to South onto the IHS surface so it is spread directly above the die, the amount is so small for best results. But as a guide the syringe opening of the NT-H1 is perfect for delivering the paste, use a constant but slight pressure with your thumb and move your hand as the paste flows out of the syringe evenly, evenly, evenly don't make any skips or create lean areas, then advance your hand so the tube or sausage shaped TIM is the same diameter along the entire length, visualize the IHS as divided into 5 sections and only apply the paste to the 3 interior sections, it will spread from there. Align the H100 cooler/pump and let gravity be the only force moving it down into position. Thread all four attachment screws 3/4 turn only, then follow the cross-pressure pattern of upper left, lower right, upper right, lower left, 3/4 turn at a time slowly repeating until all screws are finger tight.

Even with utmost care like I said I reseated 6 times before the thermals were really low. If you mess up, don't go with a bad TIM, wipe it clean off the CPU and just do it again, before placing, and forget "Noctua instruction number 3" on the back of the package. Do not rotate the heat sink left and right and smear it, not for Ivy Bridge. The sink placement motion should be gravity alone and "down only" for extremely low temps. Good Luck M8! Whew I'm tired.









The photo shows the die underneath the IHS:





































These idle temps are with a 4.2Ghz/2133Mhz overclock speed step and hyper-threading enabled and Vcore of 1.282volts. I'm certain I could achieve lower temps if I dropped the o/c and lowered the Vcore, but I really enjoy the responsiveness at 4.2Ghz.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadMax1963*
> 
> Totally agree with you, in my case I don't think sending the unit back is an option since I live in the Caribbean and would probably have to spend 2 or 3 times more money than you did shipping it back, but at least you got a trouble free unit so be happy for that I guess.
> Just out of curiosity, would you happen to know the serial number of the replacement unit??


I will post serial number later this evening.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> I live in Australia (for the meantime) and I got prepaid UPS label and the UPS delivery man picked up the faulty H100 with no charge. So it's wired you had to spend money.
> I received the new H100 after 2 days from a warehouse in China.
> wl wlw I'm PM'ing you right now regarding electrical noise with the new H100 :/


Yes, I found it strange myself. It appears Corsair is inconsistent with the prepaid labels. Some get them, some do not. I am in the states, no label.


----------



## wlw wl

Just had a quick glimpse on the Corsair forums, the problems seem to be still present, even after numerous "selective" RMAs.
The big H100 Noise thread has been locked, so it sunk and nobody reads it probably, sad to see all these guys go through it all again, not knowing for how much time the problem was there and what are the alternatives...


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Just had a quick glimpse on the Corsair forums, the problems seem to be still present, even after numerous "selective" RMAs.
> The big H100 Noise thread has been locked, so it sunk and nobody reads it probably, sad to see all these guys go through it all again, not knowing for how much time the problem was there and what are the alternatives...


I remember the night they closed it down, seems no one wanted that responsibility on their shoulders at the time, and they were out of pacifications with no clear solution, so pull the plug was the answer. Really thought the new tolerances would have made a difference, hope that was not just a bunch of malarkey, who knows, every corp has its private reasons for making public statements.


----------



## Gil80

Hi Bruce... wow.. thanks for the detailed answer... no wonder you're tired









I'm using Noctua fans only as well. ASUS Ai suite gives thermal reading of the CPU block not core readings. I used Antec forumla 7 TIM.
But now I have new noise with the H100... I'm starting to consider thermaltake extreme 2.0 water cooling.... well for the meantime, my idle temps are between 25~32 degrees while ambient temp is about 20 degrees (winter here).

I think I give up getting better cooling temps. I also found out the there's no reason to spin the radiator fans higher in high temps... it yields nothing. 700RPM is dead silent with noctua fans and the temps as load with fans on and off are the same.
My only suggestion is stay away from H100. It's not only about getting better cooling performance with water over air, it's all this troubleshooting that I would expect from custom water cooling, not a closed loop kit.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Just had a quick glimpse on the Corsair forums, the problems seem to be still present, even after numerous "selective" RMAs.
> The big H100 Noise thread has been locked, so it sunk and nobody reads it probably, sad to see all these guys go through it all again, not knowing for how much time the problem was there and what are the alternatives...


Oh yeah, it got really nasty for a minute and after so many replies and the Corsair 1500 headphone (do a search it's another nightmare thread) issue thread popped up, the heat and pressure started rising over there. BOTH the headphone thread and H100 threads were killed with something noted as "no one was was being helped closing thread" response. Not to whine, and wlw you know the history and my and many others issues (and about you being banned for silly reasons) but that was a a very disappointing response from Corsair. I understand that technical issues happen, bad products are made, but it's all about how you handle the situation that sets you apart from the "pikers".

We need to keep this thread going as we have to be a lighthouse for those lost out there. Not to bash Corsair, but to inform as to what the problem is and resolves for it. Some people have sunk hundreds on a $99 cooling unit.

BTW- For those that asked what my Lot number on the H100: 12129403


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> well for the meantime, my idle temps are between 25~32 degrees while ambient temp is about 20 degrees (winter here).
> I think I give up getting better cooling temps. I also found out the there's no reason to spin the radiator fans higher in high temps... it yields nothing. 700RPM is dead silent with noctua fans and the temps as load with fans on and off are the same.


Agreed.
The temps are pretty much the same no matter the speed of the fans on the radiator. If you have good quality static pressure fans then you should be good to go at a low fan speed setting. Even the fans that come with unit can be undervolted and still cool the same (though have a tough time starting sometimes at low voltage when compared to Corsair's premium line of SP120 fans).
25-32ºC are actually good temps for idle of a 3570K or 3770K. I am impressed with MeanBruce's 4.2 OC at only 1.282 volts though maybe that is standard for 3770K cpus. MY 3570K needs > 1.35 V in order to maintain 4.2 via multiplier settings alone. I can however lower the voltage and use a 3Mhz increase in BLCK to achieve > 4.2GHz at only a 41x multiplier. I think the offset settings on the ASUS board tend to overestimate the power needs of high multiplier settings. You might also be able to get away with a lower voltage if you speed up the response time of your VRM assembly.


----------



## Zeus

Idea, how about starting a list of the batch numbers of the H100 that the diode trick worked on. It might help new owners to decide if a diode or RMA is required.


----------



## wlw wl

Zeus - there is no clear correlation between lot# and the grinding pump, it's been going on for almost a year now, with units made in 2011 as well, and at no point could you pin the problem to one, or even a range of, lot number(s). One thing I Could say, from my observations, is that newer units seem to be harder to tame (the bearing is looser?), i.e. there are more cases where one adapter isn't enough and two are needed (two diodes in series). So my advice would be: if the unit you're buying isn't 1227+ (and it should be), then the older the better - early 2012 is IMO better than late pre-patch 2012 (April/May/early June). As for the lot#'s on which the diode adapter worked - well, that's a great majority (above 90%) and again, you couldn't narrow it down to some lot#'s on which it doesn't.

MeanBruce, bwebmasta - well they did what they did, but we do what we do







I saw some folks from OCN posting there so hopefully there is a back door letting some love flow in there


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Agreed.
> The temps are pretty much the same no matter the speed of the fans on the radiator. If you have good quality static pressure fans then you should be good to go at a low fan speed setting. Even the fans that come with unit can be undervolted and still cool the same (though have a tough time starting sometimes at low voltage when compared to Corsair's premium line of SP120 fans).
> 25-32ºC are actually good temps for idle of a 3570K or 3770K. I am impressed with MeanBruce's 4.2 OC at only 1.282 volts though maybe that is standard for 3770K cpus. MY 3570K needs > 1.35 V in order to maintain 4.2 via multiplier settings alone. I can however lower the voltage and use a 3Mhz increase in BLCK to achieve > 4.2GHz at only a 41x multiplier. I think the offset settings on the ASUS board tend to overestimate the power needs of high multiplier settings. You might also be able to get away with a lower voltage if you speed up the response time of your VRM assembly.


With my 3770k I get to 4.5GHz @ 1.218Vcore... which is lower then Bruce's settings... I use offset voltage +0.010
At idle 1.6Ghz I have 0.982Vcore.

I believe it's pretty good voltage settings for these frequencies.

Still, I'm a noob when it comes to OCing.. so what is VRM assembly?







I'll check that in my BIOS and let you know the settings I have.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> With my 3770k I get to 4.5GHz @ 1.218Vcore... which is lower then Bruce's settings... I use offset voltage +0.010
> At idle 1.6Ghz I have 0.982Vcore.
> I believe it's pretty good voltage settings for these frequencies.
> Still, I'm a noob when it comes to OCing.. so what is VRM assembly?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll check that in my BIOS and let you know the settings I have.


Ok, so I went and checked to see what I am actually running at. I have a 41x multiplier, with 103 MHz BLCK. That puts my cpu at 4.224 GHz and voltage peaks a 1.232 V. Memory runs at 1648 MHz with a ratio of 24:3. CPUID attached below.


Temperatures seem to top out way under anything that would cause concern. Kudos to the H100. Here are my temps after 5 mins CPU stress test via AIDA64.


As far at VRM response time goes I can set mine via the AI Suite II pref pane below.


----------



## Gil80

I recommend not ocing your BLCK bwcause you oc everything on the MB. It is dangerous if you have SSD.
Set it to 100 and increase the multiplier to 42.

Can you send a screen shot of the core temps using realtemp after 10 minutes of stress?


----------



## wlw wl

35 degrees on an i5 OCed to 4,2 GHz? What's the ambient? I would expect that on a full blown custom water with Supreme HF, so it seems strange to me. Sure it's not delta T?


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> 35 degrees on an i5 OCed to 4,2 GHz? What's the ambient? I would expect that on a full blown custom water with Supreme HF, so it seems strange to me. Sure it's not delta T?


LoL... yes I'm sure it isn't Delta T. haha. Ambient is prolly close to 65F.
Here are the results after 11 mins under CPU stress test with CPU @ 4.500 GHz. I can go to 4.8 easily on this mobo + cpu I have, but I don't normally run it at that. Also, worth mentioning that all fans are set to their lowest settings via fan xpert 2.



Individual Core temps are in mid 50C

You can definitely tell the H100 is working...


----------



## GTX Matt

I must say wlw wl has been really helpful in helping me resolve an issue with my H80, Great guy!


----------



## wlw wl

AerieAngel - uhh 65 ambient? Also, mid-fifties core temps make more sense, after all H100 is about as good as a really good air cooler, performance-wise. The one I had on an i7-2600K in Turbo (3,8GHz) was providing 55 - 59 degrees on cores.

GTX Matt -


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> AerieAngel - uhh 65 ambient? Also, mid-fifties core temps make more sense, after all H100 is about as good as a really good air cooler, performance-wise. The one I had on an i7-2600K in Turbo (3,8GHz) was providing 55 - 59 degrees on cores.
> GTX Matt -


65F. Sorry.
And I have an update... no changes in temps.
Raised multiplier to 46x. Increased clock speed of memory to 1800 MHz. (Memory only rated for 1600 unfortunately)
Core voltage at 1.304 V


----------



## Gil80

After seeing your results it proves that there is something wrong with my h100.
At 1.218v 4.5ghz full load i get well over 55 on all cores. Ambient is 20


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> After seeing your results it proves that there is something wrong with my h100.
> At 1.218v 4.5ghz full load i get well over 55 on all cores. Ambient is 20


Well over 55ºC? How so? Also, remember that you can not compare temperatures between two different systems. The temp sensors are easily off by 10º. What you want to see is that the temperature is manageable. How fast does it rise? Does it top out or does it continue to rise slowly?
The H100 really doesn't have a failure temp. Basically, it is either manageable or not. In other words, it either holds or it can't hold a temperature. You have to really push the voltage of the cpu though to get to that point. I would say over 1.5 is required for unmanageable temps and at that point you are risking other damage with that high of a voltage.


----------



## Gil80

look at the image below.
This is about 10 minutes run with PRIM95 set to BLEND test.
I would expect the H100 to keep it at about 55 degrees with a great thermal paste I have and this low voltage setting compared to others with the same CPU, MB, H100.



These are my OC settings for i7 3770K and Asus P8Z77-V-Deluxe with the H100 and Antec formula 7 thermal paste:

CPU LLC: 50% <- Is it ok or should I lower it? Raise it?
CPU Current Capability: 100%
Memory timings: XMP profile (1600MHz)
C3, C6: are Disables
C1: Enabled
Max Temps on load: As seen in the image<- this should be about ~55 with normal H100 or even ~50

At idle I'm at 25~33Deg with 0.986Vcore
At load with 1.218Vcore.

Do you still believe that the H100 I have cools well? To me it seems like Noctua D14 air cooling capabilities.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> These are my OC settings for i7 3770K and Asus P8Z77-V-Deluxe with the H100 and Antec formula 7 thermal paste:
> CPU LLC: 50% <- Is it ok or should I lower it? Raise it?
> CPU Current Capability: 100%
> Memory timings: XMP profile (1600MHz)
> C3, C6: are Disables
> C1: Enabled
> Max Temps on load: As seen in the image<- this should be about ~55 with normal H100 or even ~50
> At idle I'm at 25~33Deg with 0.986Vcore
> At load with 1.218Vcore.
> Do you still believe that the H100 I have cools well? To me it seems like Noctua D14 air cooling capabilities.


Those are high temperatures... of course I wouldn't run Prime95 on an Ivy Bridge CPU just yet. Better to use AIDA right now unless you are daring. It is my opinion that Prime95 really doesn't understand Ivy Bridge yet. Either way though those are higher temperatures than I would expect at that voltage. Remember the H100 doesn't necessarily lower your temperatures, but provides headroom for higher overclocks at stable temperatures.

Having said that make sure that your iGPU isn't being OCed unnecessarily. Try disabling the iGPU in the BIOS to test this as well. Having high iGPU offset (ASUS is very overestimating with their "auto" setting in this regard) can cause a rise in temperatures by a bit sometimes. CPU Load Line Calibration should be set to regular or "auto" and CPU current capability be set to 140%. Make sure you do NOT mess with Thermal Control settings. This is all pretty standard as far as overclocking goes. Your idle temps are fine as expected, but at only 1.218 V that seems hot. Check your PLL settings. Note: changing these is AI Suite 2 can confuse your BIOS. Only change these settings in BIOS. If it is set to auto make sure that it isn't over 1.81x. Be very careful with this setting.
I would be interested in seeing the temps of your VRM assembly, but I don't think the Deluxe has those sensors. Remember cpu temps are highly influenced by components around the socket on the motherboard. Make sure you have adequate airflow around the pump/block of the H100. Open up the side panel of your case and blow house fan into it to see if the temps relegate themselves to something more aligned with the rest of us. Could just be poor case airflow. Let's hope anyway.

Also, why do you have C3 and C6 Reports disabled? Any specific reason? Please also post what voltage offset you are using.
Thanks.


----------



## Gil80

Voltage offset is +0.010
iGPU is not OCed. BLCK is default 100 so no OC there.
I didn't mess with anything else beside what I described in previous post.
I'm not using AI suite, only BIOS.
To what value should I set the PLL?

I have 5 fans in my case and I set it to positive air pressure.
The two rad fans are blowing air in. But it doesn't matter much, when the used as exhaust, the temp was the same.

It's not recommended to have C states enabled when OCing.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Voltage offset is +0.010
> iGPU is not OCed. BLCK is default 100 so no OC there.
> I didn't mess with anything else beside what I described in previous post.
> I'm not using AI suite, only BIOS.
> To what value should I set the PLL?
> I have 5 fans in my case and I set it to positive air pressure.
> The two rad fans are blowing air in. But it doesn't matter much, when the used as exhaust, the temp was the same.
> It's not recommended to have C states enabled when OCing.


If you have modern equipment the C states shouldn't matter. When SSDs and such first came out maybe, but now you can leave it as auto.
PLL should be set to 0% compensation of vdroop. People think vdroop is such a horrible thing, but it really isn't. If you don't have problems at idle then there is no reason to use PLL Compensation
I would still see if there are heat spots around your VRM though. You never know.
If none of that helps then maybe you just have a hot ivy bridge. It is definitely possible. They tend to vary more than any other cpu i've seen... even more so than Prescott P4s.


----------



## Gil80

how can I check for VRM hotspots? should I change any settings for VRM?


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> how can I check for VRM hotspots? should I change any settings for VRM?


Put a house fan blowing into the side of your case with the side panel off... see if that helps

On another note everyone... THE HDD TICKING SOUND IS BACK ON MY H100.







sad face.
Lot 12299403


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> On another note everyone... THE HDD TICKING SOUND IS BACK ON MY H100.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sad face.
> Lot 12299403


I knew you'd join us


----------



## bentez

wlw wl you made me one of your voltage droppers a few months back and it allowed me to run the pump on its lowest setting with no noise (many thanks for your effort!) but on settings medium and max there is still a loud grinding noise. I am thinking I want to RMA my unit now corsair has fixed the issue. Is there a batch I should request when I fill out the forms?

Thanks again


----------



## wlw wl

Fixed or not fixed, that is the question.

If you use the procedure outlined in the first post of this thread, you will get one of those lot# 1227+ units that are supposedly fixed.
But like you see with our friend *AerieAngel* above, even those units aren't really fixed apparently.

About your problem, has it always been like this - silent, but only on low - or is it a recent development?
I would suggest using two adapters in series (two diodes) which will put the pump at about 1800RPM and it will be silent on all profiles then.


----------



## Gil80

Sorry to hear about your H100 going bad again....
I wanna take the H100 and









When CoolerMaster will release their Eisberg I will buy that for sure


----------



## wlw wl

Everyone is talking about that Eisberg, is it that cool?

Pun intended


----------



## Gil80

LOL... You are sharp man..


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> About your problem, has it always been like this - silent, but only on low - or is it a recent development?
> I would suggest using two adapters in series (two diodes) which will put the pump at about 1800RPM and it will be silent on all profiles then.


I tried the 1 diode and the noise just get more rapid and louder. 2 diodes seem to be even worse. It is definitely to do with power draw for extended periods of time in the system. Leaving it on at idle for however long was fine. Had an all day gaming session and there it goes. Running a Corsair AX850 PSU.


----------



## molleh

Well, I've had my replacement H100 for several weeks now. Zero noise issues! I did hear a grinding sound one time and was fearful the pump was the culprit... but after popping the side off and examining, it turned out one of the fans on my GTX 680 was making the sound. All is well with the H100


----------



## wlw wl

Gil80 - no, really, I know nothing about it and I didn't pay google subscription this month (read:I'm too lazy to check it out) so...









AerieAngel - sound like ripple to me, did you try a ferrite filter? Hard to tell what size/diameter it would have to be, but the noise should be in the kHz range so... a ferrite ring would be best I guess.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Gil80 - no, really, I know nothing about it and I didn't pay google subscription this month (read:I'm too lazy to check it out) so...


http://www.overclock.net/t/1226720/cooler-master-eisberg-120-eisberg-240-and-eisberg-360-water-cooling-solutions

It was suppose to be out already but CoolerMaster website shows nothing about it.


----------



## wlw wl

Oh okay, so it's like a RASA kit that comes assembled.
It's supposedly available in EU, but I don't see it.


----------



## Gil80

Have you found the dimensions of the Eisberg radiator? It seems that Antec P280 case was a bad choice after all.

With the H100 I have only about 1cm headroom from the fans to the MB cooling blocks.


See the blue thing at the top of the MB? So any thicker rads just won't fit in my case... changing H100 for a thicker rad and I'll have to change the case... while at it, I'll wait to Intel 4th GEN cpu's and then I'll have to replace my motherboard.. it's a whole new computer... because of this H100... arrghhhhh


----------



## LogiTekkers

I know I shouldn't have, but I bought a second hand H100 from ebay as I got it for a good price. But with second hand comes the inevitable problems. After 5 minutes of running I got the (very) loud grinding noise, I thought f**k that, so I just hit the block/pump where the picture of the little dude is next to the setting button and the noise disappeared. I am pretty sure it will be back though.

I didn't even bother with the stock fans, at first I hooked up my SP120s to the H100 unit but I could not have them running that loud (it was horrible) as you can't change the speed. So I have plugged them into my fan controller and it is all pretty quiet now.

Lets see what problems are on the way







Going to do a blend test and see what temps are like now


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LogiTekkers*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have, but I bought a second hand H100 from ebay as I got it for a good price. But with second hand comes the inevitable problems. After 5 minutes of running I got the (very) loud grinding noise, I thought f**k that, so I just hit the block/pump where the picture of the little dude is next to the setting button and the noise disappeared. I am pretty sure it will be back though.
> I didn't even bother with the stock fans, at first I hooked up my SP120s to the H100 unit but I could not have them running that loud (it was horrible) as you can't change the speed. So I have plugged them into my fan controller and it is all pretty quiet now.
> Lets see what problems are on the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to do a blend test and see what temps are like now


What is your rig and what frequency and Vcore you are running?


----------



## LogiTekkers

I'm at stock at the moment since upgrading to an ssd a few weeks ago. Vcore is 1.232.

Im getting some strange noises here and there when i Start>Search something, but when I do Prime95 blend, temps are great and no grinding etc


----------



## audioholic

Sending out my h100 for the RMA tomorrow...will see what happens


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LogiTekkers*
> 
> I'm at stock at the moment since upgrading to an ssd a few weeks ago. Vcore is 1.232.
> Im getting some strange noises here and there when i Start>Search something, but when I do Prime95 blend, temps are great and no grinding etc


what's your CPU model and motherboard?


----------



## Gil80

I trying to get my nerve together and do the unthinkable








Saw some dude at youtube who did this...

I will remove the thermal case of my 3770K to expose the chip







and put a thermal paste directly on it... then I will take off the retention plate from my mother board and install the CPU in its socket.
Then I'll have a "True Direct Touch"© T.D.T (PATENT PENDING) [haha LOL I'm killing myself] with the H100 pump and the CPU chip... this will probably take off 20 degrees easily at load









I would expect 40~45 degrees at full load and 20~22 degrees at idle (a bit lower then ambient temp) - and as Borat put it: IS NICEEE :]

CPU warranty: Void as a blond girl's head!
MB warranty: Well it's Asus... their warranty sucks anyway.
Should you try it? Hell no... unless you wanna risk your rig and be out of BF3 for a long time hahaha


----------



## wlw wl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> I would expect 40~45 degrees at full load and 20~22 degrees at idle (a bit lower then ambient temp) - and as Borat put it: IS NICEEE :]


That's not possible, the coolant will always be above ambient temperature, so will the CPU. You can't cool something below the temperature of air you are blowing at it. Physics yo!

Also I very much doubt that you will see such a big difference. 5 degrees, maybe, but not 20.


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> That's not possible, the coolant will always be above ambient temperature, so will the CPU. You can't cool something below the temperature of air you are blowing at it. Physics yo!
> Also I very much doubt that you will see such a big difference. 5 degrees, maybe, but not 20.


ahhh don't be a party pooper


----------



## wlw wl

me







gil


----------



## bentez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Fixed or not fixed, that is the question.
> If you use the procedure outlined in the first post of this thread, you will get one of those lot# 1227+ units that are supposedly fixed.
> But like you see with our friend *AerieAngel* above, even those units aren't really fixed apparently.
> About your problem, has it always been like this - silent, but only on low - or is it a recent development?
> I would suggest using two adapters in series (two diodes) which will put the pump at about 1800RPM and it will be silent on all profiles then.


Your "dropper" definitely helped making the lowest speed silent but I've always had noise at full speed. Are you still in the business of making adapters for use poor folk without a clue or a soldering iron? maybe with some beer bribery thrown in?


----------



## wlw wl

I am indeed.
Do you have one of those ugly old ones? Now they are all bling and... swag... or something.
PM me for details


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> I trying to get my nerve together and do the unthinkable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw some dude at youtube who did this...
> I will remove the thermal case of my 3770K to expose the chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and put a thermal paste directly on it...


Your cpu already has thermal paste in between the die and the heat spreader. Taking the heat spreader off is called de-lidding. You don't run it with it off though. You'll crack the die. You repaste it and put the heat spreader back on. It isn't hard to do. There are several guides around. Look for de-lidding ivy bridge cpu. There really isn't a good reason to do this unless you have entered into a validation contest.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Fixed or not fixed, that is the question.
> If you use the procedure outlined in the first post of this thread, you will get one of those lot# 1227+ units that are supposedly fixed.
> But like you see with our friend *AerieAngel* above, even those units aren't really fixed apparently.
> About your problem, has it always been like this - silent, but only on low - or is it a recent development?
> I would suggest using two adapters in series (two diodes) which will put the pump at about 1800RPM and it will be silent on all profiles then.


Turned the cpu block so that the tubes face downward. No ticking/rattling noise. Found out that if I tilted my computer forward the ticking stopped so I then decided to turn the block.

This post is the answer to life, the universe, and everything.


----------



## wlw wl

Indeed it is, It shows how wacky the design and/or manufacture are.


----------



## bentez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> I am indeed.
> Do you have one of those ugly old ones? Now they are all bling and... swag... or something.
> PM me for details


PM'ed


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Your cpu already has thermal paste in between the die and the heat spreader. Taking the heat spreader off is called de-lidding. You don't run it with it off though. You'll crack the die. You repaste it and put the heat spreader back on. It isn't hard to do. There are several guides around. Look for de-lidding ivy bridge cpu. There really isn't a good reason to do this unless you have entered into a validation contest.


I know it has








I've seen the research someone did about why Ivy gets hot so fast.
So it has this cheap thermal paste


----------



## Digikid

YGPM....


----------



## wlw wl

Story time.


Spoiler: Warning: boring stuff!



I just had a moment of IQ > 60, and in that short window, in my memory I was going through some noisy Hydro unit cases from the past (because yeah, I have nothing better to do!), some more distant (including the one I had), some from just a couple of days ago. I added 1 to 1 and I got 3: why do we see such a little amount of problematic H60s, compared to H80s and H100s? I have been saying for quite some time now, that the unit is susceptible to voltage noise. I just didn't realize that I had the cause in front of my eyes all the time: the same unit that suffers from the voltage noise, can be the source of the noise that causes it to malfunction (rattle, buzz).

In more detail, it's the fan controller circuit (of course not in all of the cases). Why some folks say "_my unit runs fine on lowest profile but it rattles on medium or high_" or "_the pump is quiet without the fans but the moment I plug the fans into the H100, it starts rattling_"?
Because whoever designed the circuit (CoolIT?) took shortcuts. And not just little tiny shortcuts, but like some huge leaps.
First problem is that there is no back-noise filter that is generated in the fan controller circuit due to +12V switching (that's how the fans are adjusted) - when you plug the fans into the block, this starts to happen. Second problem is that there is no input voltage filtration and regulation in the pump circuit. So it will be hit with any interference coming into it from the PSU, or the fan controller. So combine 1st and 2nd problems and you have a voltage noise generator coupled with a voltage noise absorber.
So, even if you have a good quality PSU, with a rock solid 12,00V that has a minuscule ripple on its own, the H80/H100 is potentially a closed loop of voltage noise generator and consumer.

The second problem is also present in H60s, but as with all of the newer Hydro models, they will react to ripple generated by another component - GPU for example. PSU itself isn't really at fault.

Enough of the mumble, probably nobody's going to read it anyway







I didn't go into all the detail that's in my head because it would be even more boring. Anyway all of the above becomes clear when you look at the layout of both the PCBs and use the most basic rules like Ohm's and 1st Kirchoff's laws.

Bottom line: this explains why "post-fix" 1227+ units still make the noise, because IMO the "bearing tolerance" wasn't the actual cause to begin with, it was related but not the main problem. I would gladly suggest this and the solution to the responsible folks to avoid it in the mythical H80i/H100i, but they don't listen to me anymore.


----------



## Digikid

I read it. ( Was bored ) LOL!!!!!!!!!









Some







good thoughts there.


----------



## Blacksetter

I read 'the "boring stuff," and didn't find it boring at all! You obviously have much more of a handle on the problem than anyone else does at this point in time. I must be crazy, and if I get a bad unit I will have no one to blame but myself, but I will probably buy an H100 is the so called improved unit comes out.
I've done hours of reading and research into these units. I'm still on the fence, not really knowing what conclusion to draw, but no one has really said that the H100's don't perform as a decent cooling unit. So, before i buy one, I will be sure to have wlw wl's diode fix in hand at the ready (I'm going in search of the diodes today) just in case

My hat is off to wlw wl for his extensive research into this problem on the behalf of everyone... and he keeps delving deeper into the solution...

Thanks!


----------



## MReda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Story time.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: boring stuff!
> 
> 
> 
> I just had a moment of IQ > 60, and in that short window, in my memory I was going through some noisy Hydro unit cases from the past (because yeah, I have nothing better to do!), some more distant (including the one I had), some from just a couple of days ago. I added 1 to 1 and I got 3: why do we see such a little amount of problematic H60s, compared to H80s and H100s? I have been saying for quite some time now, that the unit is susceptible to voltage noise. I just didn't realize that I had the cause in front of my eyes all the time: the same unit that suffers from the voltage noise, can be the source of the noise that causes it to malfunction (rattle, buzz).
> 
> In more detail, it's the fan controller circuit (of course not in all of the cases). Why some folks say "_my unit runs fine on lowest profile but it rattles on medium or high_" or "_the pump is quiet without the fans but the moment I plug the fans into the H100, it starts rattling_"?
> Because whoever designed the circuit (CoolIT?) took shortcuts. And not just little tiny shortcuts, but like some huge leaps.
> First problem is that there is no back-noise filter that is generated in the fan controller circuit due to +12V switching (that's how the fans are adjusted) - when you plug the fans into the block, this starts to happen. Second problem is that there is no input voltage filtration and regulation in the pump circuit. So it will be hit with any interference coming into it from the PSU, or the fan controller. So combine 1st and 2nd problems and you have a voltage noise generator coupled with a voltage noise absorber.
> So, even if you have a good quality PSU, with a rock solid 12,00V that has a minuscule ripple on its own, the H80/H100 is potentially a closed loop of voltage noise generator and consumer.
> 
> The second problem is also present in H60s, but as with all of the newer Hydro models, they will react to ripple generated by another component - GPU for example. PSU itself isn't really at fault.
> 
> Enough of the mumble, probably nobody's going to read it anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't go into all the detail that's in my head because it would be even more boring. Anyway all of the above becomes clear when you look at the layout of both the PCBs and use the most basic rules like Ohm's and 1st Kirchoff's laws.
> 
> Bottom line: this explains why "post-fix" 1227+ units still make the noise, because IMO the "bearing tolerance" wasn't the actual cause to begin with, it was related but not the main problem. I would gladly suggest this and the solution to the responsible folks to avoid it in the mythical H80i/H100i, but they don't listen to me anymore.


----------



## wlw wl

Of course feel free to prove me wrong, nobody said I'm right, including me


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Of course feel free to prove me wrong, nobody said I'm right, including me


Haha i guess only corsair can do that







I personally am still on the fence and dont know what to do.


----------



## Blacksetter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Haha i guess only corsair can do that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I personally am still on the fence and dont know what to do.


Me too!!


----------



## AerieAngel

Why do you think tilting the unit or mounting the block rotated helps alleviate the problem?
On a related note, I have to cover up the logo on the block not because I don't like Corsair, but because it is sideways now. For some reason, I can't handle that. I guess that is OCD? I don't know. I'd forgo performance in lieu of aesthetics in this build so maybe that is the reason more so. I might just get some thin craft foam cut it in a square to cover the block and then cut a hole in the middle for the white fan button to shine through. I don't know.

Oh, and having mentioned in the spoiler story wlw wl about issue arising after you first plug in fans this was exactly what happened with my first H100. It ran silently until one day I decided to try out the built in fan controller by plugging in the included fans to it and then it started the ticking and eventually a major grinding problem that would only alleviate temporarily by hitting it. At the time two diodes worked on it as it lowered it below 1800 rpms, but could still exhibit the grinding issue if the unit was knocked or for example the side panel was taken off and then snapped back on a bit to jerky.

I agree that something gets enabled or rather something doesn't work quite right after you plug fans into the controller.

Update to my present 1229 H100 is that I have it mounted turned 90º clockwise so as the tubes emerge toward the bottom of the case. This has alleviated the HDD access ticking noise, but every once in a while I will here a few ticks that go on for a few minutes and there is really nothing I can do about it anymore. Diodes make the problem significantly worse with this one. It is almost like I need more volts to alleviate it with this 1229.
My Corsair AX850 PSU runs at >12V anyway... sometimes reaching almost 12.1V I think. 3.3V/5V rail seems fine. Still within spec though and shouldn't be to blame of course. I actually freakin love this PSU. No whine and is pretty consistent unlike the Kingwin Lazer crapola that people are building with nowadays. Worse PSU ever, but people are being tricked by it.

My Corsair builder series CX430 had whine, but I can't complain for a <$20 PSU. I guess if I want spot on quality I should go with Seasonic or PC Power & Cooling. I am really happy with Corsair PSUs though.


----------



## wlw wl

I meant that while the fans are plugged in, the fan controller generates ripple on the +12V line - not that plugging them in once "enables" something that stays "on" even when you remove the fans. If you suggest the opposite, then I wouldn't have an explanation at this point, but I will think about it.

I was attempting to explain the relation between the fan controller and the pump, because I had the same thing with the H100 I used - it was silent without fans, but grinding once the fans were connected to it, then silent once the fans were disconnected and so on.
I had a number of similar reports from various people, including those cases where it was silent on lowest profile, but rattling on medium or high.

This voltage noise I'm talking about isn't the only factor, but it, combined with voltage level, the gap between bearing and shaft (so called _tolerance_), orientation of the block which impacts the lateral stress on the bearing, and who knows how many more things (for example, there isn't any strong indication that the coolant temperature plays a role, but maybe it does if its viscosity changes significantly with the temperature?), influence the operation of the pump, and might, or might not, make it enter a state of resonance, which we call _rattling_.
If a number of conditions must be fulfilled, then altering at least one of them - for example voltage (diode adapter) or ripple (ferrite bead) - would prevent that state. Returning to your first question, the margin of those conditions apparently varies from unit to unit (because, for example, due to varying bearing/shaft gap) and from system to system (various PSU with different voltages and voltage noises), and while one will shift states when tapped with a finger (noisy - tap - silent - tap - noisy - repeat), another one will require more (a voltage change - a diode), and then some won't budge no matter what. It's also not so uncommon that the unit is silent in a hand, but rattles when mounted into the PC (on the same PSU) which is a factor that is rather difficult to explain.

It's worth mentioning that my H100 was rattling all the time, then with a first 1N5817 adapter it was like I said above - only rattling while the fans were plugged in - and with the 1N4001 adapter is was completely silent with and without the fans. This fits the above "conditions theory" pretty well.

Again, these are my thoughts, I can very well be wrong.

Also, you should be able to take off the top cover - it's mounted just with some tabs, 2 per side as far as I recall - and rotate just that, to a correct position. Given that the lights would be off, but the button would still work. Or you can put something black behind it to block the light but leave the button functional.


----------



## AerieAngel

Cool beans. Thanks for taking the time to reply. I am still pretty interested in all of this as it seems you are too. I don't know if we'd ever find a permanent fix, but it is intriguing nonetheless and gives us something to do til Haswell comes out I suppose haha.

It may have just been a coincidence that the noise started after I plugged in the fans. Might just have been the right time or whatnot. I obviously had no clue that the problem even existed at the time so I wasn't really paying attention to the specifics then.









Do you know what the 4 screws (two on either side) of the water block do? What happens if I take them out? Can the unit be adjusted in such a manner in any way or is that just used for additional mounting options?


----------



## wlw wl

If I had a unit that I can do some test on, then I'm pretty sure there would be a permanent fix, maybe some super-duper adapter that more precisely targets the flaws. Other things I'd do to it would be more interesting, but not as easy to do for others as an adapter.

I guess you mean the four black screws that secure the mounting brackets to the block.
http://www.corsair.com/blog/installing-the-hydro-series-h100-extreme-performance-cpu-cooler-in-the-obsidian-800d/
3rd picture, outlined in yellow?
They're only there so you can swap the mount, as it's different for Intel and AMD. If you take them out, the two metal brackets will fall off. I don't really know what other mounting options do you have in mind?


----------



## MReda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Why do you think tilting the unit or mounting the block rotated helps alleviate the problem?
> On a related note, I have to cover up the logo on the block not because I don't like Corsair, but because it is sideways now. For some reason, I can't handle that. I guess that is OCD? I don't know. I'd forgo performance in lieu of aesthetics in this build so maybe that is the reason more so. I might just get some thin craft foam cut it in a square to cover the block and then cut a hole in the middle for the white fan button to shine through. I don't know.


I also had to cover up the logo, but not because it's sideways, but because of the annoying white LED that couldn't be turned off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Also, you should be able to take off the top cover - it's mounted just with some tabs, 2 per side as far as I recall - and rotate just that, to a correct position. Given that the lights would be off, but the button would still work. Or you can put something black behind it to block the light but leave the button functional.


Hmm, I didn't know that, I asked a few posts back if that was possible but I didn't get an answer.
I ended up covering it from the outside by carbon fiber paper.


Sorry about the crappy quality.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MReda*
> 
> I ended up covering it from the outside by carbon fiber paper.


Looks great!
Where did you get the paper from?
How much was it?
How did you attach it to the block?


----------



## MReda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MReda*
> 
> I ended up covering it from the outside by carbon fiber paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great!
> Where did you get the paper from?
> How much was it?
Click to expand...

I got it from a local store which sells car accessories







, it's quite cheap, they sell it by the meter, I just told him I need a little piece and he gave it to me for free.








I then cut out a square piece to fit on the pump.
Quote:


> How did you attach it to the block?


It's sticky paper you could stick it anywhere.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MReda*
> 
> I also had to cover up the logo, but not because it's sideways, but because of the annoying white LED that couldn't be turned off.
> Hmm, I didn't know that, I asked a few posts back if that was possible but I didn't get an answer.
> I ended up covering it from the outside by carbon fiber paper.
> 
> Sorry about the crappy quality.


That does look good!


----------



## zsoft

Made to your instructions, the diode 1N4007
It has become almost silently if the case is closed, but as I have case almost always open, I hear it!
Can modify how else? When put 2 diodes will silently?

Sorry for bad English.


----------



## MReda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zsoft*
> 
> It has become almost silently if the case is closed, but as I have case almost always open, I hear it!
> Can modify how else? When put 2 diodes will silently?
> 
> Sorry for bad English.


Try adding another 1N4007 diode.


----------



## wlw wl

Yes, try two diodes in series, one after another.
But if that doesn't help, don't add more diodes, two is max.

That's the shortest advice I can give...

On another note, I have just received - 17.9.2012 - a response from Corsair to an RMA ticket I submitted around 13th of March 2012, so after 6 months







And I don't really know what to do with it, because it says two things at the same time: 1. here's a label for your return 2. replacement will be shipped tomorrow. I checked the RMA status and judging by the lot# it's about an H100, I wonder if they want me to send some H100 back (which I don't have) or is it some mix up with a 600T front panel assembly that I requested half a year ago. Anyway,








ED: yes, it seems to be about the case part that I was trying to get a hold of six month ago, better late than never!









ED2:
I also have some pretty solid info that the H80i and H100i will not be changed in any significant way apart from added connectivity with the _i_ series PSU, so probably some fancy application stuff but no hardware changes, which also means that the leaked photos were Made In Paint.


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Yes, try two diodes in series, one after another.
> But if that doesn't help, don't add more diodes, two is max.
> That's the shortest advice I can give...
> On another note, I have just received - 17.9.2012 - a response from Corsair to an RMA ticket I submitted around 13th of March 2012, so after 6 months
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I don't really know what to do with it, because it says two things at the same time: 1. here's a label for your return 2. replacement will be shipped tomorrow. I checked the RMA status and judging by the lot# it's about an H100, I wonder if they want me to send some H100 back (which I don't have) or is it some mix up with a 600T front panel assembly that I requested half a year ago. Anyway,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ED: yes, it seems to be about the case part that I was trying to get a hold of six month ago, better late than never!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ED2:
> I also have some pretty solid info that the H80i and H100i will not be changed in any significant way apart from added connectivity with the _i_ series PSU, so probably some fancy application stuff but no hardware changes, which also means that the leaked photos were Made In Paint.


This is a sad case of affairs.

BTW- On my 2nd H100 I noticed I DO have some chatter, but it is faint. I hooked up my new headset, Sennheiser 333d USB (awesome headset) and the mic picked up the chatter noise. Hopefully, it won't get any louder.


----------



## streetwolf

Hi guys:

I would like to run my H100 on the one light setting (quietest) but when I start up my machine it defaults to two lights. Is there a way around this? Yes, I have the CorsairLink Commander but unfortunately I am running Windows 8 and the software doesn't work.


----------



## wlw wl

Unplug it from Link and see if it'll remember the setting then. It should remember the setting it was left at during power down, if it doesn't, maybe the EPROM is broken. As for the Link soft/hardware, it's still a buggy beta, which wouldn't be the only Corsair product released as such







One well-known problem with it is that it doesn't apply light colors properly after reboot, maybe your case is another thing on the list.


----------



## twerk

Hey, it would be posted to the UK, sorry I'm a newb so I reached my 2 private message limit XD


----------



## streetwolf

I do NOT have the Commander hooked up at all.


----------



## wlw wl

Then try reseting the firmware, if that doesn't help, it's probably broken.


----------



## Cirventhor

I installed a H100 into my system on thursday and after 2-3 hours I got a slight grinding sound like described throughout this thread. It isn't _very_ loud, but certainly noticable. It appears to be coming from the pump.

If I lay the case horizontal the noise stops, however, so could it be a problem with air bubbles?

Anyway, the cooler is connected to a Corsair 750 HX PSU, in case this is a voltage problem.

Lot: #12159403


----------



## wlw wl

Nope, it's likely not air if it's still making noises after running flat for few hours.
Lot # 1215 is pre-fix, only the # 1227+ are so called "fixed". You likely have the bearing manufacture problem, consider the RMA procedure which I linked to in the first post of this thread.
The issue isn't caused by voltage, but can be patched by changing the voltage. I say "patched", because the underlaying cause will still be there, but the noise will be gone.
The voltage adapter is mainly for those unwilling or unable to replace their unit via an RMA, or for those who had multiple RMAs but they didn't resolve the issue.

More boring stuff.


Spoiler: H100 p0rn



A little more on what I said before: "the unit itself is the source of the voltage noise that is making the pump rattle".

This is a photo of the underside of the H100's fan controller PCB.

Click to enlarge.

On the left, there are four 4-pin fan headers for fans. That's where the voltage switching takes place as each connector has its own switching transistor that drives the GND with PWM.
On the bottom, there are two connectors: a 2-pin for the coolant temperature sensor, and a 3-pin for the pump.
The thick track near the bottom edge of the PCB is the +12V coming directly from the PSU. This goes to the fan connectors, but also directly drives the pump assembly. Only the RPM signal from the pump is re-routed through the fan controller/Link IC.
Now on the left there's the voltage noise source - PWM controlled fans - and "far right" would be the PSU. What's in the middle? The pump.
The PSU is where all the filtering takes place, including back-EMI from all the devices. But between the switching stage of the fan controller and the pump assembly there is no filtration. The pump circuit doesn't have sufficient filtration as well.
Someone should try putting a ferrite bead on the 3-pin cable coming from this PCB to the pump assembly...


----------



## getthoboy

Hi.

I'm a new comer, am also the victim to drilling noise of H80.
I want to ask if you guys have any solution.

- I bought H80 1 month ago, found out it has drilling noise.
- I'm now over on the other side of the world (Asia).
- After trial and error, certain position will cease the noise. But my computer has to lay down in sacrifice.

Help.


----------



## wlw wl

Well, RMA or adapter, these are the only choices right now. The symptoms you describe are typical for this whole problem described here.


----------



## Blacksetter

It seems odd that Corsair, on their own forum, locked the thread dealing with the H100 issues. Too bad...I was going to use an H100, but I no longer feel comfortable ordering one, and I seriously question whether any updated models will be free from these issues. There seems to be a rather serious design flaw that Corsair is attempting to patch up with band-aids.
So, it's on to a kit for me... I don't know if I'm quite ready to put together a real, leak-free loop, but I guess I'll find out, and we all have to start somewhere...


----------



## wlw wl

Well, they locked the big thread, and they started their own with the selective RMA instructions, which is stickied at the top of the cooling section. This move is a statement on its own IMO - "we have found and fixed the issue, stop complaining".

As far as improvements go, Mr. George Makris, the Global Product Manager from Corsair asked by me in this thread here _are you planning on fixing the well known and numerous flaws in the design of those units_ said that there will be no further fixes to the known issues in the current generation of Hydro series (you can find those posts if you like), and Mr. John K. aka RAM GUY told me that the H80i and H100i will feature no fixes or design changes, only that they will come with the interconnect cable to connect to the 1200i and 860i PSU (which also means that the leaked photos were fake).
It doesn't exactly fit what Mr. George says about himself: "[ I ] have a talent for listening to what customers want and designing products based on those desires." and that he specializes in "extensive knowledge of the computer enthusiast mindset, product design and development" [ source ]. Well, we customers said what we want times and times again, but they don't listen after all, and this is what happens like with the above poster - we move on, away from such companies.









A kit seems scary, but it's really easy when you try it, you have to be doing something really wrong to get a leak or other issues, and there are tons of video how-to's and tens or more people here who will help you right away.


----------



## streetwolf

Need your opinion. Now that my H100 is suffering from two problems, the noise problem and my profile always going back to balanced even if I shut down my machine when I have it on quiet mode is it worth the effort to RMA the unit knowing that what I get back may or may not fix either issue?

What similar type of cooler would you recommend in place of the H100? I have the Corsair Obsidian 800D which allows a radiator with 3 120mm fans. I believe there is such a cooler out there. Anyone have any first hand knowledge of this cooler? Is there others you would recommend?

Since I would have to reinstall a new H100 I might as well install a unit that works. I can then ask for a refund on my H100.

Thanks.


----------



## Azuredragon1

is newegg or amazon now shipping the the "fix" h100s?


----------



## Thingamajig

There's a guy i know who complains of a loud noise from his H60 pump. Yet, for a build i made for another individual (h100), they claim they have no problems.

Custom watercooling is really the only way to go. It's not hard provided you are prepared to spend good money on quality components - especially any rotary fittings (namely, sticking to Bitspower).

The best advice i can give is the same as what i gave to this individual here


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *streetwolf*
> 
> Need your opinion. Now that my H100 is suffering from two problems, the noise problem and my profile always going back to balanced even if I shut down my machine when I have it on quiet mode is it worth the effort to RMA the unit knowing that what I get back may or may not fix either issue?
> What similar type of cooler would you recommend in place of the H100? I have the Corsair Obsidian 800D which allows a radiator with 3 120mm fans. I believe there is such a cooler out there. Anyone have any first hand knowledge of this cooler? Is there others you would recommend?
> Since I would have to reinstall a new H100 I might as well install a unit that works. I can then ask for a refund on my H100.
> Thanks.


With the 800D you'd have a tough time finding a triple radiator that wouldn't fit.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1281035/corsair-800d-watercooling
It really depends on what you are looking for and the color scheme and such. EK, Alphacool, XSPC, Swiftech, Magicool, and Black Ice are probably the most popular brands.
Aquacomputer are the super high end copper ones, but are crazy expensive. Black Ice and Alphacool are the ones for specific color schemes as most other brands only come in black.


----------



## AerieAngel

Um, I just saw this.... LOL
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUbpb23yTK8&feature=g-vrec
That is one way to use an H100 haha.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Um, I just saw this.... LOL
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUbpb23yTK8&feature=g-vrec
> That is one way to use an H100 haha.


Haha gotta love TTL







but -20c lol


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Haha gotta love TTL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but -20c lol


Yeah, it is a trolling video. He manually adjusted the correction offset of the temps lol.


----------



## adzsask

Well I am happy the corsair reps on OCN didn't pull an antec and pretty much call the people reporting problems a liar.


----------



## bosom

My H60 sounds like this on and off..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmbE-6PRDDQ

I just found this thread, I had started a regular RMA but I don't want my computer to be down for weeks while stuff is shipping back and forth(I would miss out on Torchlight 2 time) so now I'm trying the advance RMA route.


----------



## wlw wl

From the official "H60 / H80 / H100 "Buzzing" or "Grinding"" over at official Corsair Forum:
Quote:


> Dear All
> This thread has been closed and any reference to our email address have been removed. The issue has been resolved and all inventory are the newer units that have this fixed. If you have an issue with an older unit please submit the RMA and Contact me and provide your case number and lot code from your unit and I will give you instructions on how to proceed. But any RMA processed by us will be replaced with a newer unit that should not have this issue.


Ram Guy

Pfft.
So it seems the "selective RMA" procedure provided by CorsairGeorge is no longer in effect. It seems that officially "there's no issue any more".


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> From the official "H60 / H80 / H100 "Buzzing" or "Grinding"" over at official Corsair Forum:
> Ram Guy
> Pfft.
> So it seems the "selective RMA" procedure provided by CorsairGeorge is no longer in effect. It seems that officially "there's no issue any more".


So that's it then. We are on are own with this, with the exception of the RMA process. Wlw, I can't thank you enough for the time and dedication to this issue. One thing I do hope is that Corsair learned something from this iteration of their their cooling solutions and the next generation is better.


----------



## Zeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwebmasta*
> 
> Wlw, I can't thank you enough for the time and dedication to this issue.


I agree. on behalf of all H series owners, we thank you wlw


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeus*
> 
> I agree. on behalf of all H series owners, we thank you wlw


Agree with this you have put a lot of time into this wlw.

Regarding corsairs response, idk wether to believe them or not. And regarding buying a h100 im fed up with umming and arring about it, im just gonna say screw it and buy one and if it grinds i'll just rma it to corsair who will hopefully give me a "fixed" one.


----------



## Blacksetter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Agree with this you have put a lot of time into this wlw.
> Regarding corsairs response, idk wether to believe them or not. And regarding buying a h100 im fed up with umming and arring about it, im just gonna say screw it and buy one and if it grinds i'll just rma it to corsair who will hopefully give me a "fixed" one.


I almost did the same, but if I got a noisy one, or another noisy one after an RMA, I'd be kicking myself because of all the forewarning. I've just ordered the Raystorm kit, so my quandry over this issue is, thankfully over.

I hope you get a good one, but by all I've read on the subject, and I've spent weeks reading and agonizing over this, there seems to be an inherent design flaw that Corsair/CoolIT are refusing to address. Getting a unit after a certain manufacturing date does not seem to be solving this flaw, and from the leaks I've read about, the "Improved" versions will not address it either.

I've liked Corsair products, but they seem to be dropping the ball and burying their heads in the sand with this product.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blacksetter*
> 
> I almost did the same, but if I got a noisy one, or another noisy one after an RMA, I'd be kicking myself because of all the forewarning. I've just ordered the Raystorm kit, so my quandry over this issue is, thankfully over.
> I hope you get a good one, but by all I've read on the subject, and I've spent weeks reading and agonizing over this, there seems to be an inherent design flaw that Corsair/CoolIT are refusing to address. Getting a unit after a certain manufacturing date does not seem to be solving this flaw, and from the leaks I've read about, the "Improved" versions will not address it either.
> I've liked Corsair products, but they seem to be dropping the ball and burying their heads in the sand with this product.


i know what you mean and am not really happy buying knowing it could contain the issue. But then ive posted in other forums and people have h100's with no issues/grinding at all. I guess because this thread is dedicated to it, it seems a lot worse as everyones posting their problems in one thread. I will probably get it next week sometime so wish me luck!







will test out of case first and for leaks etc and will see if it makes the dreaded grind!


----------



## Blacksetter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> i know what you mean and am not really happy buying knowing it could contain the issue. But then ive posted in other forums and people have h100's with no issues/grinding at all. I guess because this thread is dedicated to it, it seems a lot worse as everyones posting their problems in one thread. I will probably get it next week sometime so wish me luck!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will test out of case first and for leaks etc and will see if it makes the dreaded grind!


I've thought that myself.. The people with problems post, and thousands without do not. It makes sense!

In any case, I wish you the best of luck, and hope you get a good one.


----------



## wlw wl

Thanks guys for your kind words!









Of course this is a thread about a problem, so most people posting here are those with this problem. This creates an illusion that most people generally have that problem, which isn't necessarily true.
My biggest concern are those people who did 3-4 RMAs and still had the same issues, because once you have this problem, it doesn't matter if it's 1% or 50% who has it, you just want it gone.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> My biggest concern are those people who did 3-4 RMAs and still had the same issues, because once you have this problem, it doesn't matter if it's 1% or 50% who has it, you just want it gone.


Yes that is a worry, people who had more than one rma says to me that either the problem is consistent in one form or another across multiple units or that they are just unlucky, im thinking its the first but i hope im wrong and all will be good!


----------



## wlw wl

Yes that does indicate presence of system-specific factors that influence the operation of the unit.
An example would be a voltage noise (ripple) and EMI, which would depend on the PSU and other components. I talked about it a couple of pages back, and probably more than once.


----------



## Blacksetter

I think that Corsair is probably limited in what they can do to fix this issue, since it is a CoolIT design that Corsair has put their name on for marketing purposes. But, I wonder if CoolIT would reach out to wlw wl for his ideas and expertise in how to repair the issues via a new or modified design. Or, sinse Asetek was granted a patent on AIO coolers, and seems on the verge of bringing suit against CoolIT for patent infringement, whether CoolIT will ultimately invest in an upgraded design until legal issues are settled?

All very interesting. I liked the all-in-one coolers for convenience, and for software and choices to control cooling parameters. I guess we'll just have to wait and see..


----------



## wlw wl

I have contacted CoolIt about this whole thing quite a long time ago, on March 31, 2012. I wrote to Andrew Wildgoose at Coolit Systems and at the end of the e-mail I asked: "_I was curious if the underlaying cause of these problems is being researched and/or if you were interested in hearing my two cents about this from a user's (with some experience in electronics) perspective."_ and the reply I got was:
Quote:


> Wojciech,
> I will need to point out that any concerns or questions concerning Corsair products, should be directed to Corsair.


So it is considered a Corsair product, therefore I believe that Corsair is the one to incorporate design changes, but we can't know what exactly is the deal between them.


----------



## Blacksetter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> I have contacted CoolIt about this whole thing quite a long time ago, on March 31, 2012. I wrote to Andrew Wildgoose at Coolit Systems and at the end of the e-mail I asked: "_I was curious if the underlaying cause of these problems is being researched and/or if you were interested in hearing my two cents about this from a user's (with some experience in electronics) perspective."_ and the reply I got was:
> So it is considered a Corsair product, therefore I believe that Corsair is the one to incorporate design changes, but we can't know what exactly is the deal between them.


Hmmmmm.. Interesting.

Hubris can be a powerful force.. for good or ill.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> I have contacted CoolIt about this whole thing quite a long time ago, on March 31, 2012. I wrote to Andrew Wildgoose at Coolit Systems and at the end of the e-mail I asked: "_I was curious if the underlaying cause of these problems is being researched and/or if you were interested in hearing my two cents about this from a user's (with some experience in electronics) perspective."_ and the reply I got was:
> So it is considered a Corsair product, therefore I believe that Corsair is the one to incorporate design changes, but we can't know what exactly is the deal between them.


That is interesting, shame that corsair arent doing more to fix the issue as its still CLEARLY present after people have had rma after rma.


----------



## 303869

Right, my h100 has been ordered through scan and should be with me tommorow, already starting to regret it, just hope it works fine with no noise!


----------



## getthoboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Well, RMA or adapter, these are the only choices right now. The symptoms you describe are typical for this whole problem described here.


Hi WLW WL,

Please check out the picture below. There's only 2 pin from the factory. Which one should I put the Diode on?


----------



## zbran

Hi all got my replacement H100 at last! Komplett are a total joke they took a month to tell me they had ne replacement and had to refund me my money.

Anyways i orderd one from dabs batch number-1215 and it works perfectly fine so far! have the pc switched on since friday and havent turned it off!

does anybody know by the batch number if its a "fixed" unit?


----------



## 303869

Hi guys, just got my h100 today and installed and its fine! the pump unit is silent! However one of the fans makes a faint squeaking noise and is a bit annoying but you can only just here that so im not too bothered. Temps havent gone over 55c in a prime stress test, about 45-48c playing skyrim, about 30c idle. Using the stock paste btw.

The fans are pretty good that come with it but quite loud, thinking if swapping for some sp120's. Also on startup they sound like a jet engine as they spin to max then down again.

Oh and my batch no is 1234


----------



## Blacksetter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Hi guys, just got my h100 today and installed and its fine! the pump unit is silent! However one of the fans makes a faint squeaking noise and is a bit annoying but you can only just here that so im not too bothered. Temps havent gone over 55c in a prime stress test, about 45-48c playing skyrim, about 30c idle. Using the stock paste btw.
> The fans are pretty good that come with it but quite loud, thinking if swapping for some sp120's. Also on startup they sound like a jet engine as they spin to max then down again.
> Oh and my batch no is 1234


Good news! Glad you got a silent one and it's working well for you!


----------



## gregkwaste

Hi there folks. After a few months i am here again.

i got my first h80 in july. Immediately it started having these noise issues. I returned it to the supplier and they gave me a new one, which did not make noise, ONLY when my case was in horizontal position. So all these months i had my case lying down on the floor.
Yesterday i got tired of this, i can't even move my chair with that thing on the floor, so i reverted my case back to vertical position. And voila, the noise started again............................

The reason for posting is to find out if anyone has used a fan controller with the pump. I think i am going to buy one of these because i have 2 more fans that i want to control, so it will come in handy. I am thinking of buying XILENCE ZUB-XP-FCP.B it gives me control over 3 fans, with the ability to control the first one between 7-12 volts. I think that will do the trick. From what i can remember the pump works well with ~10-11 volts so i think i will be capable of getting that voltage easily with the knob. I know that the controller handles only pwd fans but from some videos over youtube i saw that the appropriate cables for the convertion of 4pin to molex is included.

Any opinions?


----------



## Wurm

Greetings from Germany,

Count me among those who are not pleased with the grinding sound coming from their brand new H-80.

I'm going to post the info I found on the box. 12119402 / CWCH80

It made the annoying grinding sound right from the very first boot-up, I've ordered a diode and plan on trying the fix, but I wanted to know if anyone could read the LOT number and tell me if I received old stock or if it's one of the supposedly fixed ones.

I plan on RMAing it anyway, but it would be nice to know if corsair really did fix this issue or not before I ask for a replacement.

For the record, I love the performance of the H-80, but next time I'll go with a full WC rig like I have in my last 3 PCs. I thought I'd try a sealed solution this time to save time and money... The performance is good, but the noise is horrible.

- Shawn


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wurm*
> 
> It made the annoying grinding sound right from the very first boot-up, I've ordered a diode and plan on trying the fix, but I wanted to know if anyone could read the LOT number and tell me if I received old stock or if it's one of the supposedly fixed ones.


Not even close to being in the timeframe of the "updated" ones. That one was apparently manufactured back in February.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> 1227 is the first known "revised" batch, I don't know how you could check the lot # in an on-line store, of course you can do that locally.
> The i's haven't even been announced in any way so they are rather far off, if that info is true at all.


So the 1227 is the newest version? Can you provide pictures of the code so all of us know what to look before buying it over the counter?

Glad someone made a huge thread about this and we got results. Glad i have been keeping an eye on this because i need a new cooler soon since mine expired and also it's time to upgrade for the Holidays.


----------



## Wurm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Not even close to being in the timeframe of the "updated" ones. That one was apparently manufactured back in February.


Thanks, time to get the RMA process started I guess.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> So the 1227 is the newest version? Can you provide pictures of the code so all of us know what to look before buying it over the counter?
> Glad someone made a huge thread about this and we got results. Glad i have been keeping an eye on this because i need a new cooler soon since mine expired and also it's time to upgrade for the Holidays.


1227 is the first known revised batch. Its not the newest, i got a h100 the other day and it has a 1234 bath no on it.


----------



## bosom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregkwaste*
> 
> Hi there folks. After a few months i am here again.
> i got my first h80 in july. Immediately it started having these noise issues. I returned it to the supplier and they gave me a new one, which did not make noise, ONLY when my case was in horizontal position. So all these months i had my case lying down on the floor.
> Yesterday i got tired of this, i can't even move my chair with that thing on the floor, so i reverted my case back to vertical position. And voila, the noise started again............................
> The reason for posting is to find out if anyone has used a fan controller with the pump. I think i am going to buy one of these because i have 2 more fans that i want to control, so it will come in handy. I am thinking of buying XILENCE ZUB-XP-FCP.B it gives me control over 3 fans, with the ability to control the first one between 7-12 volts. I think that will do the trick. From what i can remember the pump works well with ~10-11 volts so i think i will be capable of getting that voltage easily with the knob. I know that the controller handles only pwd fans but from some videos over youtube i saw that the appropriate cables for the convertion of 4pin to molex is included.
> Any opinions?


I have my h60 on an NZXT Sentry Mesh Fan Controller link since Corsair just told me that they were OOS on H60s for RMA... No grinding for 2 days straight as long as I keep it on about 90%.

No difference in cooling from what I can tell either. I fold pretty much all the time my computer is on and it still sits around the same temps as before.


----------



## Tarepanda

hey guys, first of thanks for the awesome tread here I can tell people put lots of effort into it
I just bought a new H80 for my new rig and well I wanted a silent comp and I got the most annoying noisy one though the cooling is great..
I was thinking since the thread is couple of months old that my unit would be fixed but it's obviously not

just want to make sure before I send it back to amazon on monday if my batch is indeed an old one or the supposedly fixed one, here is a pic of the box


I hope you guys can tell me, from what I've read it seems to be an "old" one but I'm really no expert in all this so I'd love a confirmation if possible so I don't bother RMAing it for nothing..
thanks again and good luck with everyone having that horrible grind noise..

I appreciate though that george came here and looked into the topic but what I don't get it why they didn't bother recall the defect units for a check up or something and just let it slide to let the customers suffer themself and send it back (or not) and get a really bad image of corsair which I don't think they really deserve, but facts are facts

Anyway thanks again and hope to read from you soon









Chris


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarepanda*
> 
> hey guys, first of thanks for the awesome tread here I can tell people put lots of effort into it
> I just bought a new H80 for my new rig and well I wanted a silent comp and I got the most annoying noisy one though the cooling is great..
> I was thinking since the thread is couple of months old that my unit would be fixed but it's obviously not
> just want to make sure before I send it back to amazon on monday if my batch is indeed an old one or the supposedly fixed one, here is a pic of the box
> 
> I hope you guys can tell me, from what I've read it seems to be an "old" one but I'm really no expert in all this so I'd love a confirmation if possible so I don't bother RMAing it for nothing..
> thanks again and good luck with everyone having that horrible grind noise..
> I appreciate though that george came here and looked into the topic but what I don't get it why they didn't bother recall the defect units for a check up or something and just let it slide to let the customers suffer themself and send it back (or not) and get a really bad image of corsair which I don't think they really deserve, but facts are facts
> Anyway thanks again and hope to read from you soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chris


9402 is the model number. 1211 is the manufacture date with 12 being 2012, and 11 being week 11. So yours as the previous poster's about 4 posts ago were made in February. This is not the revised version as those are not til week 27 or rather 1227 labels.


----------



## Tarepanda

thanks for the quick answer, it's quite clear so it's going back home tomorrow in its box, let's hope I'll get a new one fast then!


----------



## Tomha

I finally got my H100 back, I delayed shipping it for ages because I was lazy, but I sent it off without an advanced RMA and got my replacement back around a week later. First thing I did before I started unpacking anything was plug it in to check for the buzz. Nothing. Mine is batch/model number 1234. I think perhaps my waiting a while helped as it gave them time to flush out older stock.

Unless anything pops up, I'm pleased with this process and my faith in Corsair has been restored. Sorry for all you still waiting on a fix, I hope you find a solution soon.


----------



## Tomha

Aaaaaaand lucky me, I spoke too soon. I have a one in a million backplate which has an untapped mounting bolt, I.e. the darn screw won't screw into the hole...this leaves me a fish out of water because I had to destroy the stupid stock intel cooler I was using, notorious for not coming off like they should, so I can't use that, and I can't use the H100 either...so I can't turn on my computer. Any suggestions beyond sending the whole thing back?


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomha*
> 
> Aaaaaaand lucky me, I spoke too soon. I have a one in a million backplate which has an untapped mounting bolt, I.e. the darn screw won't screw into the hole...this leaves me a fish out of water because I had to destroy the stupid stock intel cooler I was using, notorious for not coming off like they should, so I can't use that, and I can't use the H100 either...so I can't turn on my computer. Any suggestions beyond sending the whole thing back?


Email corsair and they might be able to just send out a new backplate. Btw i also have a 1234 batch no and it is very quiet!


----------



## Blacksetter

Temporarily, why not get a long thinner screw that will go through the backplate and secure it with washers and a nut... It will serve until a replacement backplate comes. Or, take the backplate to a locan machine shop, with the appropriate screw so they can identify the thread, and have them tap the offending hole.


----------



## Blacksetter

"locan" is supposed to be "local".... why no edit function??


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blacksetter*
> 
> "locan" is supposed to be "local".... why no edit function??


Click the pencil next to the flag to edit


----------



## Blacksetter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Click the pencil next to the flag to edit


Ahhhhhhhh... Thanks for that!









I'm a _very_ inaccurate typist, and edit is _very_ important for me!


----------



## gregkwaste

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bosom*
> 
> I have my h60 on an NZXT Sentry Mesh Fan Controller link since Corsair just told me that they were OOS on H60s for RMA... No grinding for 2 days straight as long as I keep it on about 90%.
> No difference in cooling from what I can tell either. I fold pretty much all the time my computer is on and it still sits around the same temps as before.


One more question mate. HAve you bought any extra converter in order to fit the molex in the 3pin inputs???


----------



## Tomha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomha*
> 
> Aaaaaaand lucky me, I spoke too soon. I have a one in a million backplate which has an untapped mounting bolt, I.e. the darn screw won't screw into the hole...this leaves me a fish out of water because I had to destroy the stupid stock intel cooler I was using, notorious for not coming off like they should, so I can't use that, and I can't use the H100 either...so I can't turn on my computer. Any suggestions beyond sending the whole thing back?


Getting a replacement was gonna be a big trouble, especially considering I couldn't use my computer. I checked with my dad to see if he had any taps (Like a screw made of very hard metal used to create the thread for bolts) to make the thread, my luck isnt as bad as I thought, out of the 8 taps he had one was the perfect size. 5 minutes later and it was good as new







and all screws together nicely. For some reason though with the H100 the radiator is too high in my Corsair 500R and the top panel bends slightly to fit over it..unlike my previous one, i'll figure it out at some point.


----------



## bosom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gregkwaste*
> 
> One more question mate. HAve you bought any extra converter in order to fit the molex in the 3pin inputs???


I didn't have to because mine was a 3pin on the pump to a 3 pin on my fan controller. Sorry I can't give any advice there, but a normal molex to 3 pin should work if that's what you need, like this should work...
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1115/cab-37/3_Pin_Female_Standard_Power_Connector_to_4_Pin_Male_Standard_Power_Connector.html


----------



## Wurm

Well I got the RMA process started; but was told today by telephone support, that all of the coolers are out of stock / back ordered at the moment due to the high volume of RMA and I'll have to wait.

Still waiting on the diodes I ordered to show up, I hope they get here tomorrow and the fix works for me. If not I'll be wearing headphones all the time while on my PC.


----------



## rellik502

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wurm*
> 
> Well I got the RMA process started; but was told today by telephone support, that all of the coolers are out of stock / back ordered at the moment due to the high volume of RMA and I'll have to wait.
> Still waiting on the diodes I ordered to show up, I hope they get here tomorrow and the fix works for me. If not I'll be wearing headphones all the time while on my PC.


I started my RMA this morning and it was approved in the afternoon. I want to use my computer while waiting for the replacement, so I called them to start an advanced RMA. They told me they do not have the unit available until Oct 26th.


----------



## bosom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rellik502*
> 
> I started my RMA this morning and it was approved in the afternoon. I want to use my computer while waiting for the replacement, so I called them to start an advanced RMA. They told me they do not have the unit available until Oct 26th.


Sounds like they're backing up farther for availability. They told me to call back because they should have units on the 19th of October on last Thursday.


----------



## Blacksetter

Could be the arrival of the new H100i units.

I spoke to a gent at Corsair Tech Support. He couldn't (read wouldn't) say outright, but reading between the lines, it seemed as if the new units were scheduled for October.


----------



## getthoboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *getthoboy*
> 
> Hi WLW WL,
> Please check out the picture below. There's only 2 pin from the factory. Which one should I put the Diode on?


Can someone help me with this problem, please?

Thank you


----------



## christpunchers

Has anyone received any adapters from WLW recently?


----------



## CasualKilla

Hey guys, I need some help, I bought a H80 a week or 2 back, and it started making clicking noises, though the noise is not that loud, it is only audible on low fan speed. So I wanna know, is it normal for the H80 to make noise while operating, if so, what would it sound like? Can some please post a youtube video of like 10 seconds with the fans switched of?


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasualKilla*
> 
> Hey guys, I need some help, I bought a H80 a week or 2 back, and it started making clicking noises, though the noise is not that loud, it is only audible on low fan speed. So I wanna know, is it normal for the H80 to make noise while operating, if so, what would it sound like? Can some please post a youtube video of like 10 seconds with the fans switched of?


it will make some noise due to the pump but it shouldnt sound like clicking, my 100 sounds like a electrical whir sound.


----------



## Vlada011

I hear same grinding noise only on low speed profile.


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Hi All,

Just wanted to say I had this issue right out of the box and raised an RMA with Corsair. They were really good about the whole thing! they arranged for a courier to collect the faulty unit which was then sent from England to Norway replaced with a different (brand new) unit and returned to me within 5 business days!!!!!!!

It was a minor inconvenience but the efficiency of Corsair and the fact it cost me nothing to replace means I would happily buy more Corsair products in future

Have a thumbs up Corsair


----------



## CasualKilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> it will make some noise due to the pump but it shouldnt sound like clicking, my 100 sounds like a electrical whir sound.


I would be so grateful if you could post a vid of the pump noise with the fans off, I know its alot to ask, but you will be doing me a huge fav.or


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasualKilla*
> 
> I would be so grateful if you could post a vid of the pump noise with the fans off, I know its alot to ask, but you will be doing me a huge fav.or


Ok, i havent got time tonight but i will do it tommorow if thats ok?


----------



## DADDYDC650

I have an H100 and it sounds like an active HDD. Normal?


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DADDYDC650*
> 
> I have an H100 and it sounds like an active HDD. Normal?


No its not normal, i would RMA it.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasualKilla*
> 
> I would be so grateful if you could post a vid of the pump noise with the fans off, I know its alot to ask, but you will be doing me a huge fav.or


Here you go http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-a9MTqbfmY


----------



## Gil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Here you go http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-a9MTqbfmY


Just saw the video. We have the exact motherboard and noctua fans on the rad.

Anyone heard from wl wlw lately?


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> Just saw the video. We have the exact motherboard and noctua fans on the rad.
> Anyone heard from wl wlw lately?


The nf-f12's are good and a lot quieter than the stock corsair fans! it doesnt sound like a jet engine on startup anymore lol Also havent noticed any temp difference.

No i havent heard from wlw on here for a while anyway.


----------



## wlw wl

Hey guys,

the reason for my long absence is sickness. I've been sick for close to a month now, the doctor gave me new meds a couple of days ago so I'm hoping I will be getting better soon.

Some of you have been waiting for the adapters a long time now. If you do not wish to wait any more, I will of course make a full refund.
However if you do have some patience left, I assure you that they will be made and sent - but I can't give any specific dates. I'm just hoping that the new antibiotics will get me back on my feet soon.
I guess you can imagine that after such a long sickness and medication I am literally unable to make them at this time.

I know I have a ton of PMs, I will be going through them once I'm in a better shape.
If you wish to have your money refunded, please send me a PM titled REFUND, I'll see that in e-mail notifications (I'm online once every couple of days to do the finances) and I'll do it.

Hope to be back soon!


----------



## twerk

Get better soon mate!


----------



## CasualKilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Here you go http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-a9MTqbfmY


Thanks dude, much appreciated really, very nice rig btw. you have layed my mind at ease about RMAing my unit now that I see it that the pump should be that quiet.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasualKilla*
> 
> Thanks dude, much appreciated really, very nice rig btw. you have layed my mind at ease about RMAing my unit now that I see it that the pump should be that quiet.


No problem and thanks! Good luck with the rma, corsair are pretty good with rma's so i wouldnt worry, i think i was lucky i got a revised batch, i think any over 1227 should be fine.


----------



## Digikid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> No problem and thanks! Good luck with the rma, corsair are pretty good with rma's so i wouldnt worry, i think i was lucky i got a revised batch, i think any over 1227 should be fine.


My prayers to to WLW WL for recovery.

Tell me how can you tell what "batch" I have?


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Digikid*
> 
> My prayers to to WLW WL for recovery.
> Tell me how can you tell what "batch" I have?


Its on the box on the bar code sticker, it should start with either 11 or 12 and then a two digit number representing what month of either year 2011 or 2012 it was made in.

Yeah get well soon wlw!


----------



## Digikid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Its on the box on the bar code sticker, it should start with either 11 or 12 and then a two digit number representing what month of either year 2011 or 2012 it was made in.
> Yeah get well soon wlw!




So....mine is a 1230?


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Digikid*
> 
> 
> So....mine is a 1230?


yes, you should have a revised one, is it ok?


----------



## CasualKilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Its on the box on the bar code sticker, it should start with either 11 or 12 and then a two digit number representing what month of either year 2011 or 2012 it was made in.
> Yeah get well soon wlw!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Digikid*
> 
> 
> So....mine is a 1230?


How can the 30 in 1230 represent the month, are you sure you got it right?


----------



## voklskier4452

Gave in and contacted corsair about my grinding H80. Going to see what happens here or I have been eyeing an asetek GPU+CPU AIO solution. Hopefully corsair comes through for me.


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasualKilla*
> 
> How can the 30 in 1230 represent the month, are you sure you got it right?


It's not the month, it's the week. 30th week.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom Thumb*
> 
> It's not the month, it's the week. 30th week.


Yeah its week not month, sorry typo, im tired


----------



## Digikid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> yes, you should have a revised one, is it ok?


Yes and no. It is not noisy at all......until you start plugging fans into it then it buzzes. I have asked WLW WL for an adapter anyways....just to be sure.


----------



## YaMoBeThere

Just to chime in, I have an H80 batch #1216 with the buzzing/grinding noise. I did an advanced RMA through Corsair today, they were really nice about it, hopefully the new one fixes the issue!


----------



## Roalith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> to be back soon!


Get well soon chap, life and health is more important!


----------



## Xiofire

I have just bought a H80, arrived yesterday, and it also has the grinding noise of doom.
Contacted wlw wl for a voltage dropper as I've already gone through a **** up with Amazon over this cooler, and don't think I can go back to the crappy Intel stock cooler I was rocking.

Hopefully wlw wl will pull through and save me from the never ending HDD seek noise.

EDIT: Just read wlw wl was sick. Now I feel like an ass. Hope you get better soon man, health is more important than dropping voltage


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xiofire*
> 
> I have just bought a H80, arrived yesterday, and it also has the grinding noise of doom.
> Contacted wlw wl for a voltage dropper as I've already gone through a **** up with Amazon over this cooler, and don't think I can go back to the crappy Intel stock cooler I was rocking.
> Hopefully wlw wl will pull through and save me from the never ending HDD seek noise.
> EDIT: Just read wlw wl was sick. Now I feel like an ass. Hope you get better soon man, health is more important than dropping voltage


If you want you can contact corsair directly instead of going through amazon, theyre normally very good at dealing with rmas


----------



## Xiofire

Just contacted their RMA support. They haven't even sent me a confirmation email to say my request has been received. No word from them for 24 hours.

I'll keep holding out. Till then, I'll just keep my headphones on and pretend it doesn't grind


----------



## bandook

I have been putting off an RMA, but yesterday I called to see if I can do an advanced RMA. I was told that I could not as of now, because of the high "demand"







for the h100. I would have to call back after the 30th.

They can't even put you on a list and ship it when they are back in stock. Well, since this must all be fresh product we'll see how it goes when I get one.


----------



## salle

Hope you get well soon mate:thumb:


----------



## Vlada011

My is number 12139403 and I hear sound, sometimes disappears but on Low mode I hear always I can leave 2 days noise is always there. On Balanced disappears like i say but when I change speed than back. Yes I can hear throw fan holes on top of case, I hear fans but in back I hear noise rrrrrrrrrrr. I will not go in risk and change if CORSAIR still make grinding coolers. When they find what is problem and if I noise start to back often than I will change. But if it's little like now I will leave. It's really sad what human makes today.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> My is number 12139403 and I hear sound, sometimes disappears but on Low mode I hear always I can leave 2 days noise is always there. On Balanced disappears like i say but when I change speed than back. Yes I can hear throw fan holes on top of case, I hear fans but in back I hear noise rrrrrrrrrrr. I will not go in risk and change if CORSAIR still make grinding coolers. When they find what is problem and if I noise start to back often than I will change. But if it's little like now I will leave. It's really sad what human makes today.


1227 is the known revision so i would just rma it.


----------



## Vlada011

Are you sure, that is confirmed... CORSAIR find cause of problem and make revision???


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Are you sure, that is confirmed... CORSAIR find cause of problem and make revision???


thats what corsair have said but wether everyone believes it is another matter. But anyway i have a h100 with a 1234 no and its fine, no grinding.


----------



## Vlada011

I look on some youtube video (your) and that sample is excellent, revision I think, silent completly.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> I look on some youtube video (your) and that sample is excellent, revision I think, silent completly.


Yeah well heres my video showing noise level if you havent seen it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-a9MTqbfmY

Edit, sorry didnt see your edit


----------



## Vlada011

That is good CORSAIR H100.
Temps are OK too??? Tell me...With 3570k example on 4.5GHz what is temp under LinX with AVX instructions or Intel Burn Test???


----------



## delta0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> Yeah well heres my video showing noise level if you havent seen it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-a9MTqbfmY
> Edit, sorry didnt see your edit


Do you hear any noise when you put your ear next to it? I just got my H80 and i can't hear noise unless i put my ear next to it and this is with the unit on its side. The model number is 1219.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delta0*
> 
> Do you hear any noise when you put your ear next to it? I just got my H80 and i can't hear noise unless i put my ear next to it and this is with the unit on its side. The model number is 1219.


I got the camera pretty close in the vid so thats what i hear. Your going to hear something as there is a pump running at over 2000rpm lets not forget.


----------



## delta0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyReZar*
> 
> I got the camera pretty close in the vid so thats what i hear. Your going to hear something as there is a pump running at over 2000rpm lets not forget.


Thanks. Seems like mine is ok then. That's good to know!


----------



## YaMoBeThere

RMA complete, started out a little noisy (air bubbles perhaps?) and now its completely silent. Sweet, sweet silence!


----------



## ipv89

Iwant to buy a h80 or h100 not to sure yet. How can I be sure im buying a model that was made after the fix was implemented


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ipv89*
> 
> Iwant to buy a h80 or h100 not to sure yet. How can I be sure im buying a model that was made after the fix was implemented


Well 12/27 is supposed to be the known revision batch no so try get one with a date after that. Theres normally not a way to check though unless you buy in a shop.


----------



## SirWooties

Just got my H60 RMA replacement. When I first fired her up, it was making these weird bubble popping noises. It sounded like I was cooking fried eggs lol. The noise went away after 10 minutes and now it's completely silent.


----------



## Raven.7

Anyone know the revision code of the H80s that don't suffer from this issue?


----------



## Volvo

Sounds like CoolIT cheaped out on the impeller bearings for them to rattle this badly..


----------



## Volvo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWooties*
> 
> Just got my H60 RMA replacement. When I first fired her up, it was making these weird bubble popping noises. It sounded like I was cooking fried eggs lol. The noise went away after 10 minutes and now it's completely silent.


Yeah, that's correct. Most, if not all AIO loops have a slight amount of air in the loop which goes away after the positioning stabilises.


----------



## 303869

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raven.7*
> 
> Anyone know the revision code of the H80s that don't suffer from this issue?


Should be 1227xxxx


----------



## Blue Panda

Oh well, after putting up with my noisy H100 for the last couple of months I've finally requested an RMA...bit disappointed really as I've unsuccessfully tried all the fixes mentioned in various threads.

I hope the whole return process isn't too much of a problem.

Where would I have to post it to? or do Corsair get a courier to arrange a pickup?


----------



## twerk

Is there anyone who bought an adapter that confirm that it worked? I know it's not 100% to work but I'm wondering if it has worked for anyone.


----------



## Zeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndyM95*
> 
> Is there anyone who bought an adapter that confirm that it worked? I know it's not 100% to work but I'm wondering if it has worked for anyone.


I made my own based on what wlw posted and it worked for me. It dropped the pumps rpm by 200 and the grinding stopped. The temps haven't been affected either.


----------



## twerk

I've requested an RMA however they say I have to ship it myself which I find unacceptable. It will cost me about £60 to ship, I'd expect them to send a courier out to be honest. Is there any way round this? I might as well buy a new cooler for £80.


----------



## MeanBruce

Corsair Press Release: This ain't your Grandaddy's H100!

To improve cooling performance over previous generations, the Hydro Series H100i cooler uses new, more efficient copper cold plates, improved manifolds, optimized fan designs, and larger diameter tubing for increased coolant flow. Corsair's new flagship liquid CPU cooler, the Hydro Series H100i, utilizes a 240 mm radiator for increased surface area and cooling capacity.

The H100i uses new SP120L High Performance fans based on Corsair's static pressure optimized Air Series SP120 fans. The SP120L utilizes wide-body, low-pitch fan blades designed for outstanding static pressure at a lower noise level, and a motor that has been specially tuned for high torque, ensuring consistently high performance when used in high resistance environments such as on a liquid cooling radiator. With the new SP120L fans, noise levels have been reduced significantly.

Out of the box compatibility with Corsair Link provides control over fan speeds and noise levels, pump head LED lighting customization, and the ability to create custom cooling profiles from the Corsair Link Dashboard's easy-to-use software interface. An additional Corsair Link Digital connector on the pump head provides monitoring and control of other devices, such as Corsair Link equipped power supplies, Lighting Nodes, Cooling Nodes, and the Airflow Pro memory activity and temperature monitor kits.

The integrated design of the Hydro Series H100i combined with new materials and features make installation simpler than ever. The composite rubber tubing is more flexible than the FEP/FPA tubing used in previous coolers, making installation and routing easier but maintaining the previous generation's ultra-low evaporation rates. A new magnetic mounting bracket allows PC builders to quickly and effortlessly configure the coolers for all modern Intel or AMD motherboard sockets.

The new H100i Hydro Series cooler is backed by Corsair's industry leading five-year limited warranty and technical support. The products will be available in November from Corsair's worldwide network of resellers and distributors. Prices in the United States are listed below:

Hydro Series H100i $119.99 USD


----------



## aln688

Looks promising! I wonder how it compares to the NZXT Kraken X60?!


----------



## christpunchers

Does anyone have any spare voltage adapters they want to sell to me?

With wlw out of commission, I'm unable to get this high speed H100 fixed. The pump isn't to much grinding as it is rattling for me. Its 2200rpm is just too high.

Tried it with another PSU that gives out about 11.9V and the H100 ended being up much more tolerable.

I'd just use a fan controller, but I can't find any male molex to male 2/3pin fan header cable. I guess I'll have to make my own somehow.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christpunchers*
> 
> Does anyone have any spare voltage adapters they want to sell to me?
> With wlw out of commission, I'm unable to get this high speed H100 fixed. The pump isn't to much grinding as it is rattling for me. Its 2200rpm is just too high.
> Tried it with another PSU that gives out about 11.9V and the H100 ended being up much more tolerable.
> I'd just use a fan controller, but I can't find any male molex to male 2/3pin fan header cable. I guess I'll have to make my own somehow.


Performance-PCS.com has the adapter you need, it was $3.99 when I got mine, never used it just a backup. Just search internal power cables.


----------



## Gil80

MeanBruce, good to see you again... do you know what's going on with wl wwl?

Anyways, after 3 months with the RMA H100 I'm getting these noises again... I'm going to insist on replacing it to the H100i


----------



## Blue Panda

I fitted the diode to my H100's power line and it worked in the short term but eventually the noise came back. The noise really started to bug me and I've initiated the RMA process...but to be honest with the expensive shipping costs I might just write it off as a kick in the nuts and wait for the new H100i to get in the shops. Bit cr*p I know but hey ho and such is life.


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> MeanBruce, good to see you again... do you know what's going on with wl wwl?
> Anyways, after 3 months with the RMA H100 I'm getting these noises again... I'm going to insist on replacing it to the H100i


No way...I am having the exact same problem! It's been a number of months since I've had my H100 replaced (on my 4th unit at the moment) and just the other day, my H100 started making rattling noises again. If I were to go for another RMA, this'd be the fifth unit which is slightly concerning for both Corsair and myself >_>!. Might contact them to see what they can do, but I wouldn't mind getting this swapped over for an H100i - even if it means spending a little extra.


----------



## gregoire

I finally got a real silent CPU cooling solution : a Phanteks TH-14PE with liquid ultra as TIM and my temperature are better than I was having with the H100 and I don't have any noise at all from the PC...


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Corsair have mentioned that the H100i should be out in November but does anyone know roughly when that would be (e.g. end, middle etc)? I ended up calling customer support yesterday and the customer service rep informed me that they didn't have any stock of the H100i yet (unfortunately he didn't know when they would be in stock either). That said, he seemed indifferent about swapping the H100 for an H100i when I asked him about that possibility (but maybe that's because this is my 4th RMA lol).


----------



## aln688

The H100i is available now, see below.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aln688*
> 
> The H100i is available now, see below.


Gimme! I want!


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Thanks for the update aln688! Might chase them up again next week then. Also please let us know how the unit performs (especially with regards to noise







!)


----------



## aln688

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigDirtyNoob*
> 
> Thanks for the update aln688! Might chase them up again next week then. Also please let us know how the unit performs (especially with regards to noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !)


Happy to help. I ordered this directly from the Corsair web-site, took a few days for it to arrive. Of course, I'll let you know if I experience any noise problems from the pump; I'll be running it on my 3930K system.

EDIT: I just saw this, http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=112133


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aln688*
> 
> Happy to help. I ordered this directly from the Corsair web-site, took a few days for it to arrive. Of course, I'll let you know if I experience any noise problems from the pump; I'll be running it on my 3930K system.
> EDIT: I just saw this, http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=112133


You've gotta be joking! Corsair, get your **** together!


----------



## Blue Panda

This would be hilarious if it wasn't for real...I've got loads of Corsair kit in my rig but this H100 thing is making me think about buying further stuff from them. Especially if it's heavy as the postage costs to Holland are crazy - my H100 shipping costs are about £30-35. The H100 cost me £85. So to send back their mess up it makes my total outlay £115+









Why the heck can't I just return the flipping thing back to the shop I bought it from?

I'll be watching how people get on with the H100i for sure...I want one myself and so hope it's a brilliant unit, but the cost that goes with RMA'ing something back to Corsair ain't funny. I'll certainly be looking at other makes more closely from now on.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gil80*
> 
> MeanBruce, good to see you again... do you know what's going on with wl wwl?
> Anyways, after 3 months with the RMA H100 I'm getting these noises again... I'm going to insist on replacing it to the H100i


I heard wlw_wl was ill, I was just getting ready to contact him, looks like from the H100i video below, we might all need his help once again:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pi3f0sqiLbw Watching it makes my stomach hurt.









But I do love the look of the new units and the RGB LED and tubing are gorgeous. I have a H100i on the way, ordered last night from the Corsair Store, hoping like last time around, I get a good one, crossing fingers and toes.

MeanBruce=MatthewScores, over at the Corsair Forums I have to remain incognito, hahahaha.

I think RAM GUY might be seeking out a very tall building right about now. Don't do it RAM GUY, we all love you man!









I doubt an emergency meeting has been called, but I bet those iPhones are burning up the wires at Corsair Central.


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Well this is lame :S. I'm hoping that this is a genuinely defective unit, otherwise GG Corsair haha. It'd be safe to say that they wouldn't want a round 2 of special RMAs







.

Also get better soon wlw_wl!


----------



## MeanBruce

Another enthusiast reporting the grinding noise on a new H100i over at Corsair forums. Geez, I wish someone with a new quiet unit would post here and let us know what's going on. Don't get mine until Thursday from the Corsair Store, the suspense is just killing me.smile.gif

Someone please come on here and let us know there are good ones out there! Pleeeeese!


----------



## bwebmasta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aln688*
> 
> Happy to help. I ordered this directly from the Corsair web-site, took a few days for it to arrive. Of course, I'll let you know if I experience any noise problems from the pump; I'll be running it on my 3930K system.
> EDIT: I just saw this, http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=112133


You have got to be joking. The new H100i's are even louder than the H100? I don't even know what to say at this point, do they test out how these things sound on actual systems before selling them?

I hope this is not a regular occurrence with the H100i's and this is a fluke.


----------



## [email protected]

Has anyone seen a H80 newer versions and higher any worth it yet? I am planning a new build.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181031

Why is this still out of stock? I want this. Otherwise i'll order the H100 but i have no idea how to fit it in Antec 1200 or Dark Fleet cases.


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Has anyone seen a H80 newer versions and higher any worth it yet? I am planning a new build.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181031
> Why is this still out of stock? I want this. Otherwise i'll order the H100 but i have no idea how to fit it in Antec 1200 or Dark Fleet cases.


The i versions of the hydro series seem to keep CPUs about 2-3 degrees cooler under load. Your choice whether it's worth it or not


----------



## [email protected]

So much help









But the H80i isn't in stock so i have no clue where to get one. I hate waiting lol.


----------



## steve222

I just picked up a refurbished H100 at Fry's for $65, and so far it is silent. I had tried three different new ones a few months ago and had to return all of them for noise issues. Fry's has them on sale this week.


----------



## Notmare

Hey I just created an account here to say thanks! This diode solution resolved the grinding issue I was having with my H80, I tried one but it only changed the sound slightly, so I wired another in series and now it's perfectly silent. Thanks again!


----------



## pony-tail

I have a H40 on one of my machines - I have not had the rattling issues .
Is the H40 exempt from this issue ?


----------



## MReda

RAM GUY over at Corsair forums said that they have found the problem with the H100i and a fix will be released shortly.
Quote:


> I was just informed we have identified the issue and a new firmware should be released shortly that will correct this... In the event it is determined to be another issue in the final determination we will inform you.


...interesting.


----------



## Digikid

firmware eh? very interesting indeed!!!!


----------



## Smoke1991

I've been following the corsair forms really close over the past few days. I have a new H100i still sitting in a un opened newegg box. Looks like its probably going right back to New egg for a refund.

You think they would of more R&D/testing prior to release

Issues Ive seen posted so far with the H100i


Noise from unit while using fans (probable on board fan controller issue, RAMGUY says Firmware issue...) (Multiple people)
Corsair LINK usb drivers not installing correctly (Multiple People)
Corsair LINK system slowdown even during bios post and boot. (one user issue)
Typo in the manual that comes with the unit (wrong hardware listed for application)

Its not off to a good start. sigh...


----------



## Digikid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smoke1991*
> 
> I've been following the corsair forms really close over the past few days. I have a new H100i still sitting in a un opened newegg box. Looks like its probably going right back to New egg for a refund.
> You think they would of more R&D/testing prior to release
> Issues Ive seen posted so far with the H100i
> 
> Noise from unit while using fans (probable on board fan controller issue, RAMGUY says Firmware issue...) (Multiple people)
> Corsair LINK usb drivers not installing correctly (Multiple People)
> Corsair LINK system slowdown even during bios post and boot. (one user issue)
> Typo in the manual that comes with the unit (wrong hardware listed for application)
> Its not off to a good start. sigh...


Wow. seriously? Corsair needs to shape up then and fast.


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smoke1991*
> 
> I've been following the corsair forms really close over the past few days. I have a new H100i still sitting in a un opened newegg box. Looks like its probably going right back to New egg for a refund.
> You think they would of more R&D/testing prior to release
> Issues Ive seen posted so far with the H100i
> 
> Noise from unit while using fans (probable on board fan controller issue, RAMGUY says Firmware issue...) (Multiple people)
> Corsair LINK usb drivers not installing correctly (Multiple People)
> Corsair LINK system slowdown even during bios post and boot. (one user issue)
> Typo in the manual that comes with the unit (wrong hardware listed for application)
> Its not off to a good start. sigh...


I think of these, the only real issue to be wary of would be the noise from the unit w/fans plugged in. Despite RAMGUY saying that a firmware update can supposedly rectify the issue, it feels like there's a little more to it...Nevertheless, I would be more than happy if it did resolve the issue!

That aside, the rest of the issues should be easily fixed with software updates. I think you'll have to give it maybe one or two more revisions before the software is up to scratch. I've really dropped my software expectations with these companies after ASUS' AI Suite (which has been out for god-knows how long haha) locked my computer numerous times. I had to do a system restore after each installation attempt before finally giving up







.


----------



## Smoke1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigDirtyNoob*
> 
> I think of these, the only real issue to be wary of would be the noise from the unit w/fans plugged in. Despite RAMGUY saying that a firmware update can supposedly rectify the issue, it feels like there's a little more to it...Nevertheless, I would be more than happy if it did resolve the issue!
> That aside, the rest of the issues should be easily fixed with software updates. I think you'll have to give it maybe one or two more revisions before the software is up to scratch. I've really dropped my software expectations with these companies after ASUS' AI Suite (which has been out for god-knows how long haha) locked my computer numerous times. I had to do a system restore after each installation attempt before finally giving up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Well it looks like the firmware update was a wash.

People mentioned the update "bricked" the H100i and is no longer detected in windows (one guy did 2 h100i's and 1 worked fine, other bricked) Resolved low fan speed noise, now there is a consistent noise coming from the pump.

Fix one problem.. Make other problems.... not good at all.

I currently am using AI suite on my V GENE, using fan expert to control all fans, including the 4 on my h100, it works alright. just wish there was a way to link the settings for 2 fan headers.


----------



## MReda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smoke1991*
> 
> just wish there was a way to link the settings for 2 fan headers.


Use a Y-fan connector.


----------



## chalkeroochy

Put an H100 in a new built ... now I know to do thorough research on all parts beforehand

The build before was a 3770K / P8Z77 V pro in a P280 with Seasonic X760, I used a kuhler 620 with 2 noctua NF-F12 push n pulling out the back, plus 2 front and 2 top NF-12B FLX, all controlled with Fan xpert 2 (except pump on CPU opt)

I have to put my ear to the case to hear the gentle breeze!

This time I used Corsair ... 500R case, AX650 psu and the H100

Had to get rid of the all cooler and case fans way to noisy ... mind you I also did this with the P280 even though they were no where as noisy as the corsair

Then after 2 day of the psu doing a weird and annoying dog whistle and toot I swapped it for a Seasonic X660

The case is acoustically on the loud side compared to the P280 .. so after 2 weeks of a noise gradually getting louder a bit of research has brought me here ... I also got vengeance ram, I should head butt a ewe

I did wlw wl's diode thing, but I soldered one from a noctua low noise fan adapter ... but these didn't work at all, maybe because of the lower wattage I think?

If I had a dog that could whistle or toot I'd name it "corsair", if it bit I'd use the same name!


----------



## john7up

Hello , Lads. Unfortunately, I'm one of those unhappy users with the pump noise issue as well.
Wlw wl, do you post people out the diode for fixing that, or how does it work?
I wish I could make a silent PC especially for allowing me/my gf concentrate whilst studying, whilst watching movies, whilst listening to quality but not loud music, and most importantly, in order not to disturb my girlfriend whilst asleep! (I have to combine a really silent keyboard for that.

I hate the 90's hard disk sound...


----------



## JaSiccama

Hello everyone,

I think my question is simple









My Corsair H100 makes the well known grinding sound, second one I received from RMA, and I don't want to do an RMA again.

Now I want to try the voltage dropper which is mentioned in this thread.

I've send 'wlw wl' an PM but he doesn't reply

Does somebody know where I can get this voltage dropper elsewhere or maybe somebody doesn't need it anymore...?

Regards,
Johan


----------



## s1rrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JaSiccama*
> 
> Does somebody know where I can get this voltage dropper elsewhere or maybe somebody doesn't need it anymore...?
> Regards,
> Johan


j

If you can't manage to get a voltage dropper, then simply run your pump off of a fan controller like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811998808

...



...

That's just a basic four channel drive bay fan controller...any of such will work. Just run the pump power off of one of the channels and lower the volts via the knob (or whatever) just a teeny bit and the noise should stop. Also, you might not have to even manually lower the volts via the fan controller as simply hooking it up to a fan controller bus will automatically and quite minutely drop the volts a tad, thereby silencing the unit.

I have my H100 hooked up to my Corsair 600T fan controller and it runs *completely* silent (without being on the fan controller header, though ... it is unbearably noisy).

Best.


----------



## Blue Panda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *john7up*
> 
> Hello , Lads. Unfortunately, I'm one of those unhappy users with the pump noise issue as well.
> Wlw wl, do you post people out the diode for fixing that, or how does it work?
> I wish I could make a silent PC especially for allowing me/my gf concentrate whilst studying, whilst watching movies, whilst listening to quality but not loud music, and most importantly, in order not to disturb my girlfriend whilst asleep! (I have to combine a really silent keyboard for that.
> I hate the 90's hard disk sound...


The diode reduces the voltage from the PSU - the fix works to reduce the pump speed a little as it doesn't handle voltages over 12v very well apparently.
They cost almost nothing and can be bought on ebay. Forgive me I can't just remember the value of the diode but it's listed in this thread somewhere.

I tried the diode fix on my H100(serial number beginning with 121....) and it worked for a few weeks but the noise came back. In the end I RMA'd it and a shiny new one arrived a few days ago with a serial number beginning 124....

I also fitted two SP120 quiet edition fans to the replacement H100 and it now works a charm...almost totally silent. I definitely did the right thing in RMA'ing it. It's great to be able to clock my CPU back up to 4.6GHz after using the CPU's retail Intel fan. I also feel like I have done the right thing in not just chucking the H100 in the garbage and buying a H100i - sounds like they have their own problems too.


----------



## wlw wl

Well hello there!

Sorry to those who hoped to get rid of me, but I'm back.








I have a lot of catching up to do, currently going through the PMs.
Then I'll read this thread carefully, because I see a lot of interesting new stuff here (who'd knew, the improved *i* coolers giving the same problems?).

You'll hear from me soon









ED:

okay I read all the posts, thanks *Bruce* for the info!
Well I can't really say I'm surprised. After all it was RamGuy himself who told me* that the H80i and H100i are cosmetically changed, but inside it's the same stuff.
Frankly I'd expect that the whole pump assembly is the same as before, with perhaps the same design fault causing a fan controller interference resulting in the "grinding/rattle".
The "old" H80 and H100 already had a Link connectivity, so it's hard to tell how many and how important are the changes to the fan controller PCB. And it won't be very soon that someone decides to open one up, unless it explodes by itself like one H100 did - which was a great source of photos for me









*) bold by me
Quote:


> there is no new coolers *the H80I and H100I are the same cooler* only they come with the interconnect cable to connect to the 1200i and 860i PSU.


ADD:
holy sh**, there really is a lot of people raging on their forums, so much for us hoping the new product wouldn't have the old product's faults.
*CorsairGeorge*, it's a shame we didn't get the wrinkles out in the end.


----------



## chalkeroochy

Took out the Noctua resistor? and soldered in a 1N4008 diode the pump rpm's are down from an average of 2180 to 1995...
the lower rpm didn't change the pump noise or cpu temp...
... I bought a DC PWM controller 12v 8 amp, it recommends to add a diode across the output terminals ( + to + ) for inductive load such as a dc motor ... would this be necessary ?


----------



## wlw wl

Try two diodes in series and see if that changes anything.

If that's a PWM controller, don't use it. You'll kill the cooler. Only a minor tweak (1 -2V) on the Hydro unit supply voltage is allowed, and it has to be actual constant voltage, no variation, no PWM, or you WILL kill it!


----------



## chalkeroochy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Try two diodes in series and see if that changes anything.
> If that's a PWM controller, don't use it. You'll kill the cooler. Only a minor tweak (1 -2V) on the Hydro unit supply voltage is allowed, and it has to be actual constant voltage, no variation, no PWM, or you WILL kill it!


The fellow at Jaycar knew all about pc water pump over revving issues and assured me that it's the same as a fan controller?


----------



## wlw wl

This isn't your typical "PC water pump", there are two (nearly) separate circuits inside that unit and neither of them will like the PWM supply. I'm just saying, it will not work if it is in fact a PWM controller.


----------



## chalkeroochy

Thanks for the help wlw wl ... you may be correct in more ways than one

after a bit of research water has far more resistance than air .. so due to the pulse width/duty cycle thing v mass/interia a DC motor will stall far more easily at lower rpm in water than in air and above stall could even have oscillating rpm's

Edit: been back to Jaycar, I returned the PWM controller and bought some more diodes plus molexs and heat shrink as they don't refund ... the tech/sales fellow did say again that the PWM controller was perfectly OK for the corsair H100 ?


----------



## wlw wl

If it was indeed a PWM output controller then no, it wasn't okay. If it was okay, then it wasn't PWM









PWM controller works with lights (such as LEDs) because your eyes don't mind the high frequency pulse, it's also works rather good with DC motors, because their inductive nature basically integrates - creates a low pass filter - the signal thus creating the "effective voltage" proportional to the pulse width (however, unlike LED, motors might resonate with the PWM base frequency creating audible noise, hence all the fuss about choosing right PWM frequency - so it's not a perfect solution).
However, in Corsair Hydro H60, H80 and H100, the pump (the motor, the inductive load) is not connected directly to the supply, but is driven by a specialized BLDC motor controller, which creates its own PWM signal from a constant voltage supply. The H50 and H70 worked on a similar basis, but the controller was inverting the voltage to create 12V AC, as they used an AC motor.
Furthermore, the second circuit inside Corsair Hydro, which is the fan controller + temperature sensing + Link etc. uses it's own voltage regulator (a 3,3V LDO, probably to avoid further signal level shifting on USB or similar data lanes) which doesn't have enough capacitance to filter the PWM into constant voltage either. So like I said, powering the unit from PWM source would seriously mess with its operation. Given the fact that I've seen more than one case where variable voltage (not PWM) supply from a motherboard fan header killed the unit, I've said before that PWM would most likely do the same.


----------



## chalkeroochy

2x IN4004 diodes produced an average pump speed of 1750 rpm with 54.4 dB ... the boss (SWMBO) whom I built this rig for said that she thought it sounded like being in a submarine ... I asked how would she know that?
Her answer= WW2 movies

The corsair H100 noise is quite a bit higher pitched than the antec H20 620 in my rig and makes an annoying/pesky .. tinnitus .. mosquito .. astral travel .. like noise

This may possibly be due to the hard corrugated tubing causing turbulence or just a badly engineered pump

So if you were a pesky old hippy with a bit of deafness, this is the water cooler that could make you feel groovy!

For me listening to it makes me wonder how it passed quality control and if I can't get a refund I'll bin IT!


----------



## SavaTom

Ladies and gentlemen, I have a new fix / solution and it worked for me 100% on my H60.

My motherboard does not support fan speed adjustment on 3 pin connectors and we all know that the H60 is a 3pin.

So, I bought a 4 pin pwm DAISY-CHAINABLE fan from Arctic (f series)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186033 (120)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186081 (140)

I plug the pump into the daisy chain port, and plug the single little yellow wire from the daisy chain port into ANY 4 port PWM port on the mobo and as if by magic, I can adjust the pump speed.

PROBLEM 100% SOLVED AND HAVE A NICE DAY!!!!!!


----------



## john7up

Hey guys. My corsair H100 just arrived from warranty being replaced to a new one and its not making a grinding noise but it does make a watery/water dripping noise, which I haven't heard before.

Where can I find the serial number, first of all?
What do I do to quelch the sound?
And thirdly, how do you guys RMA ? Basically if I'm from Europe, whom do I have to contact/what do I have to do and is there anything I have to pay for this procedure?

Cheers.


----------



## BigDirtyNoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *john7up*
> 
> Hey guys. My corsair H100 just arrived from warranty being replaced to a new one and its not making a grinding noise but it does make a watery/water dripping noise, which I haven't heard before.
> Where can I find the serial number, first of all?
> What do I do to quelch the sound?
> And thirdly, how do you guys RMA ? Basically if I'm from Europe, whom do I have to contact/what do I have to do and is there anything I have to pay for this procedure?
> Cheers.


Let me give this a shot









1. The noise may be due to trapped air bubbles inside the unit. I've been through four H100 units and of those, 3 have produced a 'bubbling/watery' sort of noise. I'm not sure if this is exactly what you mean, but if is, once you've used the unit for a couple of days, this noise should die off. In the mean time, you can also try tapping the pipes and that may accelerate the process.

2. The serial number should be on the box, above the barcode. It'll be something like "1227...."

3. I've been using an Advance RMA procedure through their customer service line. Basically, give their customer service in the US a call through Skype (free call) and tell them your problem. I'm not sure if they still offer special consideration to H100/H80 users (I'm sure they wouldn't mind), but it's worth a shot. Back when I did it, you would be sent return shipping labels (through UPS) so return shipping costs were covered (I'm in Australia, so they covered their international customers too







).


----------



## chalkeroochy

SavaTom
The H100 pump has a 3 pin molex ... and wlw wl's posts (2, 4 and 6 back from yours) indicates that controlling the H60, 80 or 100 by PWM would not be advisable as the pump motor

6 posts back
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Try two diodes in series and see if that changes anything.
> If that's a PWM controller, don't use it. You'll kill the cooler. Only a minor tweak (1 -2V) on the Hydro unit supply voltage is allowed, and it has to be actual constant voltage, no variation, no PWM, or you WILL kill it!


----------



## wlw wl

chalkeroochy - I'm not sure I understand exactly what that sounds like, could you perhaps record it and post here?









SavaTom can you show us what this daisy-chain connector looks like? All I can tell from the description is that it's just a parallel connection on both the +12V and the PWM lines. Also, are you sure you are actually controlling the pump's speed, not the fan?


----------



## SavaTom

The following solution worked 100% for me. My Corsair Hydro is DEAD SILENT now. Fixed the pump noise 100%!!!!!! No difference in temp!!!!!

VIEW MY GALLERY TO SEE DIAGRAM AND PHOTO!!!

Thx!


----------



## SavaTom

Here is a translation / step by step instructions for the diagram:

1. Plug pump into fan daisy chain port

2. Plug fan into 4 pin fan port on motherboard

3. Plug yellow wire from fan to cpu port on motherboard

4. Lower CPU fan speed in bios to slow down pump and kill pump noise!!!!

5. Adjust fan in bios to whatever u want.

Have a nice day!! Worked 100% for me!!!

MY PUMP IS DEAD SILENT NOW!!!!

NO CHANGE IN TEMPS!!!


----------



## wlw wl

Can you please show a photo? That diagram doesn't help much because it can't be told which wire is connected to what.
The daisy-chain, according to the description, only forwards the PWM signal, which would do nothing as far as controlling the pump goes.
My bet is that the fan header you chose isn't actually using PWM but just a voltage control.


----------



## SavaTom

Yes, i will show a photo.

Just did this same thing on ANOTHER corsair hydro system with the daisy chain fan deal and it SOLVED THE NOISE PROBLEM 100%!!!!!!

So that is TWO completely different computers solved by the same daisy chainable fan!!!

Will post photos later in my default gallery.

IT WORKS!


----------



## RitschRatsch

Hey wlw wl

Welcome back!

i Would like to ask if you still make these MK III Droppers
Since i got also a noisy pump and it gets really annoying =(

Wish they would call the old units back whch are still on stock of retailers !!!

Going trough their RMA would be way to expensive.


----------



## wlw wl

Hello









Yes, I will be making more of them because I still have some requests queued, but that will most likely happen after the Christmas, because I still have some old request to finish first.


----------



## SavaTom

I will post a video sometime saturday or sunday on my fix.


----------



## SavaTom

Here is a link to the video of the fix

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ho3xIfUhonI

enjoy!

it works 100% and no change in temps!!!


----------



## SavaTom

Here is a link to the video of the fix

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ho3xIfUhonI

enjoy!

it works 100% and no change in temps!!!


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Hey guys, so my understanding is Grinding noise = rma, correct?


----------



## ipv89

yay just got a h80 and no noise at all


----------



## pvt.joker

well, my H100 finally gave up.. makes too much noise to be bearable now.. looks like it's back to my D14 until corsair gets my replacement to me..


----------



## derfer

Would it be safe to unplug the pump from the motherboard for a few seconds while everything is running to confirm it's the noise source? Or would it overheat to fast.


----------



## hakz

I believe it's safe (<10sec), make sure it's idle and running on stock to reduce the temps. The diode fixed mine and I now have a silent H80


----------



## NFSxperts

I've finally got my H60 back after a month. Can't believe I tolerated the noise for 11 months. Its so quiet now I can hear the psu fan noise
My Previous post

Old lot number: 1134
New lot number: 1233


----------



## Tim0n

Hello I just bought the bitfenix Recon fan-controller and is trying to reduce the pump speed but I cant. Does anyone know why this dosnen't work I can change the speed of other fans but not the pump fan.

So I set it to manual click the fan icon and lower it to 1900rpm instead of 2000 rpm but it stays on 2000 rpm. Solutions would be great!


----------



## WalkinTarget

Can someone confirm that this is the resistor needed (Performance-PCs link) for an H80 unit ??

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_82&products_id=25975

I have an open RMA for my H80 that was just approved earlier this week, but I will be damned if I can find one of the stock Corsair fans to RMA mine. I replaced the stock fans with 2 GT 1850's and packed away the stock fans, but pulled one only to misplace it. I purchased my H80 back in September of last year, and the pump is grating now more than ever. I'm desperate to make it stop.


----------



## Tim0n

Okay I now know why it dosent work, becasue apperently the 3pin is only a sensor. So another question!

would it work if I buy a Molex (female) to a 3pin (male) and connect that 3pin to my fan controller and then set the fan speed?


----------



## SavaTom

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ho3xIfUhonI

read description underneath the video as well


----------



## Roalith

With wlw wl out of commission, I decided to build my own voltage droppers. Pump is now running at a shade under 1800 RPM, and is absolutely silent. Temperatures haven't gone up, so I'm happy









Turns out I need to get a new PSU in any case as the damn thing has the loudest coil whine I have ever encountered, but you can't have everything I guess


----------



## Tim0n

Is anyone still selling "voltage droppers" I am in need of one I have tried every possible way, and I cant unfortunately create my own. ( lack of skills) So is anyone selling shipping these to sweden It would be most wonderful.


----------



## hakz

^ I have very little understanding and experience about these things, but still, I did it.








just follow wlw wl's instructions and accompanying photos, you should be fine.


----------



## Kinaesthetic

I'm not sure if it has been posted already in the copious amounts of pages in this thread, but I recently bought a H60 refurbished at Frys at their sale price. It turns out that I had a unit with the grinding pump noise. Every source I read on how to fix this either entailed a voltage dropper, or a fan controller to be added to your system.

I decided to see if I could make a little workaround to not having to do either of these things. Instead of connecting my pump's 3 pin connector to the 3 pin PWR_1 (or commonly shown in the UEFI BIOS as the unmodifiable Power Fan connection. I decided to connect it to a 3 pin chassis fan connection on the motherboard. Since chassis fan speeds can be changed through the BIOS, it was a simple change of making the pump fan to be set to level 8 (rather than level 9) for "fan" speed. After this fix, pure blissfully silent water cooling. Like I sad before, I'm not sure if this has been already stated in this thread, but this fix worked perfectly for me and I though I'd like to share it so someone else doesn't have to do nearly as much troubleshooting with it. Plus it saves you having to mess with voltage droppers or fan controllers.

(For reference, my motherboard is the solid, but mildly cheap ASRock H60-iCafe mobo)

I hope this helps anyone that stumbles upon this thread. And I have to throw my hat to say that this thread helped me a lot in troubleshooting this problem. Good luck in fixing it if you have to!


----------



## hakz

that's great and very easy fix for h60 use sir, unfortunaty the h80 and h100 (not sure about h70 though) uses a molex/peripheral connector so it's a bit more complicated.; )


----------



## Kinaesthetic

Heh, I realized that, but I thought I'd throw it out there for the h60 users in this thread that might be looking for an easy and cheap fix to the problems. Especially with Frys having their copious deals on refurbed h60s.


----------



## killbom

Diode mod fixed my H100.

Had to use 2 diodes but it went from MOTORCYCLE to ninja


----------



## TSXmike

think my pump might be starting to rattle... not too sure yet.


----------



## Jollyriffic

my pump is rattling. i always thought it was one of my fans.
found out it was the pump due to giving my sleeper sig rig to my kids but kept some parts like the h100

right now my new i7 rig is in a case from around 2003 and is trash. so i have the cooler zip tied to the outside of the case with both side panels off.

i hit up the rma and says it was approved.
doesnt say to send it to them.. do they send you the cooler first then you ship yours back in their packaging?
what do you think the changes of them swapping me to an h100i would be?


----------



## supermags

My brand new h80 is rattling on and off (goes away for a few mins and then comes back).

Anyone knows where i can find a voltage dropper in the UK? And do people on this forum still sell them? I'm willing to pay in order to avoid the RMA hassle....


----------



## Roalith

Always looking for a more elegant solution than my bodged-together daisy chained droppers, I've stumbled upon this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9091/bus-191/Manual_12V_Variable_Speed_Controller_-_4-Pin_Molex_Connector.html

Now, I know a few pages back wlw wl said PWM fan controllers are a bad idea for the H80/H100, but they do state in the product description...

_*"Great for case fans strip lighting and liquid cooling pumps"*_

Presumably, hooking one of these up to a H80 at 100% and gradually reducing the voltage until the noise vanishes should solve the issue...

I'll buy one and have a play


----------



## Gil80

Hi guys....

Few months ago I was posting here about my H100 grinding noise... eventually I did an Advanced RMA and I got silent H100... or at least this was I thought.
After a while the pump started acting up and I decided to do another RMA but against H100i

Well... yesterday I got the H100i and guess what? I think you already know....
The pump has a high pitch noise which is heard through my silent P280 case which is padded with extra sound dampener. The Noctua radiator fans are connected to my motherboard so this is not a H100i controller issue and it has the latest firmware (1.05).

So what I'm trying to say guys... if you have the chance to replace your cooling, do so but don't take Corsair branded products. This is a third time I get burned with a defective product by what suppose to be a good company.
They have excellent customer service but at the end of the day, you are left with a 50/50 chance of having a bad product.

Now I have to RMA it for the 4th time.


----------



## supermags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roalith*
> 
> Always looking for a more elegant solution than my bodged-together daisy chained droppers, I've stumbled upon this:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9091/bus-191/Manual_12V_Variable_Speed_Controller_-_4-Pin_Molex_Connector.html
> 
> Now, I know a few pages back wlw wl said PWM fan controllers are a bad idea for the H80/H100, but they do state in the product description...
> 
> _*"Great for case fans strip lighting and liquid cooling pumps"*_
> 
> Presumably, hooking one of these up to a H80 at 100% and gradually reducing the voltage until the noise vanishes should solve the issue...
> 
> I'll buy one and have a play


let us know how it goes!


----------



## killbom

If you'd like I could make a video or step by step guide on how to make one of these adapters. If there's any interest!


----------



## Abandoned

So Here is my setup.

My h55 on gfx card making an intermittent pump noise.

Do you guys think it might make a noise cause of how its installed? Lower radiator and horizontal pump?


----------



## killbom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abandoned*
> 
> 
> 
> So Here is my setup.
> 
> My h55 on gfx card making an intermittent pump noise.
> 
> Do you guys think it might make a noise cause of how its installed? Lower radiator and horizontal pump?


According to the laws of fluid dynamics it doesn't matter if the pump is below or above the radiator


----------



## supermags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WalkinTarget*
> 
> Can someone confirm that this is the resistor needed (Performance-PCs link) for an H80 unit ??
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_82&products_id=25975
> 
> I have an open RMA for my H80 that was just approved earlier this week, but I will be damned if I can find one of the stock Corsair fans to RMA mine. I replaced the stock fans with 2 GT 1850's and packed away the stock fans, but pulled one only to misplace it. I purchased my H80 back in September of last year, and the pump is grating now more than ever. I'm desperate to make it stop.


Did this one work in the end? Sounds like a great place to get a cable, and its only 10 buck incl shipping to the uk!


----------



## RitschRatsch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killbom*
> 
> If you'd like I could make a video or step by step guide on how to make one of these adapters. If there's any interest!


I think that would be a great Idea since i can imagine quite a few ppl are afraid of messing things up


----------



## hakz

killbom - yes please. that would help a LOT. I struggled making one myself. also would help if a mod would add the link of the vid to the first post for reference


----------



## Abandoned

Removed my H55, going to RMA it for pump noise. As I was inspecting the unit,I saw that the one port, radiator side is leaking tiny bits of coolant.

Thank your pump noise!

Should I get a new H55 or maybe get the H60?


----------



## lSkull

Hello all,

So after trying this fix on my H80 that had begun rattling unbearably I had mixed results. One diode adapter seemed not enough and the rattle persisted, however two diode adapters daisy chained made my pump silent (yay) but with a strange side effect. My pump is now running at ~3200 RPM as shown below:

No fix:


With 2 molex adapters fitted a 1N4001 diode daisy chained together:


Is this normal? Temps have lowered slightly if anything and the pump is now completely silent, almost as if it wasn't working at all (which was my initial suspicion).


----------



## Roalith

That's pretty bizarre ISkull, when I did exactly the same with my H80, the RPM dropped to ~1850-1900ish.

Mine has some odd behaviour though:

With the case lying flat and with no adapters I get a little noise, with case standing up and no adapters lots of noise.

With case lying flat and 2 adapters I get a LOT of noise, but with it standing up and two adapters - no noise!


----------



## supermags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermags*
> 
> Did this one work in the end? Sounds like a great place to get a cable, and its only 10 buck incl shipping to the uk!


I got one of these, but unfortunately the fans stop running altogether when i use it... so it definitely didn't work for me. i'm not sure if the pump worked - there was a light on the unit, but with the fans stopping my temperatures rose quickly, so i suspect the pump didnt work either... disappointing!!

So i guess i need to try my soldering skills, unless there's any other pre-made solution that may work?


----------



## Blitzer418

Hey folks!

Just joined the site to post here. I too, have the horrible grinding noise coming from my H80.

I'm posting for those like me that don't want to make their own "voltage dropper", or bother other users to make one for them!







Instead, I'm going to try two things.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9091/bus-191/Manual_12V_Variable_Speed_Controller_-_4-Pin_Molex_Connector.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_82&products_id=25975

Once I receive them, I will confirm which one works, and which one doesn't! Both are relatively cheap ($5.95 and $3.95).

Edit: Just read supermags comment. Maybe I'll just get the variable speed controller instead.

Thanks guys,
Blitzer418


----------



## SonDa5

Just came across this thread looking for some help on quieting down a Corsair H60 that I just installed.

For the last 4 hours it was running after I installed it and the pump seemed somewhat noisy. At fist it didn't bother me but then after awhile the noise began to make me think the pump was not working right.

I fixed the problem that I had and I think it was caused by some air bubbles stuck in the pump. I positioned the entire case with the system operating so that the pump was at the bottom of the case and the radiator was 180 degrees straight up. I believe this let the air in the pump escape and after a few seconds the noise went away and now it sounds great!!! Nice and quiet like water cooling should sound.


----------



## killbom

I will try to make a video guide when I get home from school.

I don't know if I have any spare Molex cables.

If you have the tools it really isn't hard. Stay tuned!


----------



## [email protected]

Guys i just installed the H100 today and i had some weird behavior on my cpu but it seems to be acting fine now. It could have been the card reader on my NXZT Phantom 820 case i dunno cuz i saw a driver was being installed prior to the USB hub i added.

However here are my temps.

Let me know what you think?



Can anyone explain me how these icons on the H100 cooler work? Each settings are fans right? How do i get the face icon to light up? All three bars are on but shouldn't the ICON person on the bottom of the third bar should be lit up?

Or is that for something else like a link cooler kit? I don't have a cooler link kit and don't need one. Just wanted to double check and be sure if i need to download firmware or drivers or anything for the cooler? Cuz this is the first h100 i had since i owned the H70 for more than three years.

Hope i'll appreciate this one and have good temp control while gaming hardcore and doing 3D stuff.

Let me know if you have any tips for me on this certain cooler. Thanks!


----------



## [email protected]

Can anyone tell me if the Cooler icon face past the third bar is supposed to be lit up? Am i suppose to download firmware and drivers for the cooler? I swore i heard it pop once and my desktop restarted. I wonder if i need to update something? I noticed the link is only for Corsair Link connectors right? I don't even need this. I hope i can get some help here otherwise i might have to get another cooler i hope not.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lSkull*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> So after trying this fix on my H80 that had begun rattling unbearably I had mixed results. One diode adapter seemed not enough and the rattle persisted, however two diode adapters daisy chained made my pump silent (yay) but with a strange side effect. My pump is now running at ~3200 RPM as shown below:
> 
> No fix:
> 
> 
> With 2 molex adapters fitted a 1N4001 diode daisy chained together:
> 
> 
> Is this normal? Temps have lowered slightly if anything and the pump is now completely silent, almost as if it wasn't working at all (which was my initial suspicion).


I have this exact same problem, one diode didn't work either so I used two, it's whisper quiet now, but AI suite says it's at 3k.


----------



## [email protected]

Please someone tell me?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wlw wl*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> *For official Corsair response start here and read on.*
> 
> *Official instructions on how to apply for a selective RMA (advanced RMA available per request) here.*
> This is no longer true, see here: clicky
> Now you have to submit a standard RMA ticket.
> 
> Big thanks to CorsairGeorge for speaking up and out!
> 
> /update
> 
> I'm new here but I've heard from a long-time user s1rrah that there might be some people here interested in fixing their noisy Corsair Hydro coolers.
> 
> Some of those units make HDD-like grinding or rattling noise, if you have one you know what I'm talking about.
> 
> The simplest cure to that noise is to slow down the pump a bit so the impeller stops rattling. Mind you that this is only patching the symptom of an underlaying issue, one that neither me or you can address at present.
> 
> *Update*: check out the CorsairGeorge's posts in this thread, link at the beginning of this post. The cause has been confirmed to be a shaft/bearing issue which results in rattle under certain circumstances (which I will humbly mention that I have suggested some months ago here), one of them being the voltage to speed correlation, and that is why the diode adapter works - because it slows the pump and puts it out of that resonance/rattle RPM range, without impacting the cooling performance.
> 
> The issue had been fixed and the new, corrected units are being delivered to Corsair locations.
> */update*
> 
> There are several methods do fix that.
> One is to use a big 4-pin Molex fan controller in case of H100 or H80, or motherboard's fan header in case of H60.
> 
> Another, that is my idea, is to use an adapter, dubbed the "voltage dropper" by the Corsair forum's community, to lower the voltage a little. This is equivalent to running the unit off of a fan controller set to about 90%.
> How is it done? Plain and simple - a rectifying diode soldered in series with +12V line, encased as a male Molex to female Molex pass-through. Or as a 4-pin Molex to 3-pin fan header for H60. Just mind the diode's polarity!
> 
> The thing looks like this:
> 
> http://i39.tinypic.com/72vvns.jpg
> 
> (ed: or more recently like this: http://cdn.overclock.net/e/e1/e12e487e_9.jpeg)
> 
> and is smaller and easier to conceal than a fan controller. And you can sleeve it etc. Also, unlike transistor-based fan controller or a resistor-based adapter, there is no heat generated from this one.
> That is the very first I made, later revisions had the +5V and one GND wires removed so they can be easily told apart from any other adapters.
> One diode handles up to 1A forward current, so if you have H100 with 4 strong fans, you might need two diodes in parallel.
> 
> The only question left is - what diode one should use?
> The simple answer is: any one from the 1N4001 to 1N4007 range. I'm using 1N4001 and it's working in about 90% of the cases or more, hard to keep track of all the droppers I've already sent and those that people made themselves to my guidance.
> I also tried Schottky diodes, 1N5817 and 1N5819, but they didn't work with the H100 I had. Fine without fans, still grinding when 2 fans were attached. That's because the forward voltage of those diodes is lower.
> 
> I've already made and sent tens of those all over the world (North and South America, Australia, Japan, France, Germany, UK and Italy just to name a few) including s1rrah, and like I've said already, they work in >90% of the cases.
> When this will not work is if your cooler is one of the somewhat rarer units that will keep on grinding unless slowed down to 1700RPM and below (from original ~2000RPM). If you combine such a unit with a common 12,3V PSU, one diode is simply not enough. And although there are positive reports, I generally do not encourage running the unit at speeds lower than 1800RPM, and some will keep grinding even below 1700RPM.
> 
> So go ahead and try that if you have a noisy Hydro cooler.
> If you can't or don't want to make it yourself, you can contact me. I've been sending them for weeks every week now, and when I gather 5-10 people and send a batch away.
> 
> The discussion started on Corsair's support forum here:
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=97733
> 
> I chimed in around page 15 with my findings and solution. As of now it has 32 pages, 467 posts, 57,000 views (update: over 100,000 now, the thread has been closed) and there are numerous cases where people have been RMAing their noisy units 3 or 4 times in a row to no avail, and the mod worked for them and they could finally enjoy their cooler.
> 
> If you need more in-depth guidance, feel free to ask.
> You can find a detailed photo step-by-step guide in my albums and my sig.
> 
> ED: update #3


I might need one of these molex. But i AM not having grinding issues. But i do know my molex is quite loose and i can't flap the wings anymore i had to force them in. I honestly don't know what is the problem with my PC but i honestly think it has to be windows corruption issue. Right now i'm reformatting and gonna see if the problem solved. If not then maybe i need a new cooler or new motherboard or a new video card. I already swamped psu to a brand new one. So i have been trying to figure the culprit.

I left my computer on IDLE for like 6 hours and 44 mins and it works fine. When i play BF3 for like an hr or so it shuts down black screen and restarts itself. Likely a driver issue or video card acting up or something isn't working but it could been Win 7 corruption on my SSD dunno. Been doing the basic checks yesterday and now gonna reformat and see if it solves my problem.

Man i had a crazy week. I could tell more but i just wanna get this done with.


----------



## Wenty

Well my pump is doing this noise thing too now........ Have to decide what to do now.


----------



## dslovel

Mine was doing it, so I threw it in the trash in an anger rage when I kept losing in a game...


----------



## Frozenoblivion

My H80i has a loud rattling pump.
I hope H i series owners can post problems here too.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dslovel*
> 
> Mine was doing it, so I threw it in the trash in an anger rage when I kept losing in a game...


You probably lost the game due to not having a CPU cooler on the CPU and it overheating and shutting the PC down.

Next time make sure to finish the game first, then throw the cooler in the trash.

OR...

Return it to Corsair because it is defective.


----------



## xSneak

the v1.0.5 firmware is out:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=115836

It solved the grinding noise on my h100i


----------



## DauhU

How long does it take to get a confirmation for the RMA? i didnt write down my RMA number so i cant call to do the advance RMA yet


----------



## DauhU

wells scratch that. RMA process with quick and easy. Advance RMA started and hopefully will have the replacement H100i by next week.


----------



## kennyparker1337

I have a buzzing PSU and a buzzing H100 both from Corsair.

How do you get an advanced RMA?

Is it best to call or e-mail?


----------



## DauhU

apply online, once u get the confirmation, call them and do the advance RMA.

I just got my RMA cooler today and installed. they didnt send me a prepaid return shipping label so im waiting for them to contact me regarding that.


----------



## lemniscate

guys, my H100 has this noise too, can I use this thing to slow it down and eliminate the noise: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25975

I don't think I can still RMA it, since when I first installed it, I screwed the fans too far and damaged the fins.


----------



## skywalkr

N/m please delete


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> guys, my H100 has this noise too, can I use this thing to slow it down and eliminate the noise: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25975
> 
> I don't think I can still RMA it, since when I first installed it, I screwed the fans too far and damaged the fins.


I bought the fanspeeder, and it removed the noise, but it seems like the pump barely moves water.. I keep getting shut downs due to CPU overheating (I tried to enter bios, and the CPU temp is around 80, and keep rising.. that explains the shut downs), so I gave up and removed the fanspeeder.

does anyone have other solution?


----------



## hakz

RMA


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hakz*
> 
> RMA


haha yeah, it seems like that's the best bet for me.. I wonder if they'll accept it, since some fins are damaged due to long screws..


----------



## Fleat

I also have an H60 that makes a terrible grinding noise. I plugged it into an aux fan connector on my motherboard, and set it to 80% in the AI Suite software. This eliminated all noise from the pump.


----------



## TMallory

So my H80 died. Already replaced it with an H60 with an AF120 fan, but I want to get the H80 replaced. I went to put in an RMA and the "standard replacement" and "express replacement" options are grayed out, I can only choose product accessory.


----------



## DauhU

you have to call in for the advance RMA for replacement.


----------



## ThermalVent

How long does it take for Corsair to reply to emails as I sent my request over 2 weeks ago.

This is my 4th H80 in 18months, the fan controller died after 2 weeks but I put up with that for 6 months or so as the pump was quiet and actually worked *shock*
However, the pump has now started making the dreaded grinding sound.... getting work done is a right pain in the ass as it's so loud.

Never had so many problems with a product in my life.


----------



## DauhU

best and quickest response is over the phone. email requests usually have been answered in 24/48hrs from my followup experience after first calling them.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DauhU*
> 
> best and quickest response is over the phone. email requests usually have been answered in 24/48hrs from my followup experience after first calling them.


I called them up and they told me I had to request it online.

So I went to some weird backsite attached to Corsair: http://corsair.force.com

There you can make, edit, and cancel RMA tickets.

I RMA'ed my H100 this way and I got an H100i in return.
Although the return was bittersweet because the fans it came with made a buzz noise just the previous motor in the H100. -_-

I also RMA'ed my HX 600W PSU that way.
My HX600W was sent in a beat up box with _chewing gum_ plastered on the side.
But I didn't mind because the PSU worked fine.


----------



## ThermalVent

So I emailed them again, no response as of yet.

Is the email address still: [email protected]?

Am I also correct in thinking that this is also for an advanced shipped replacement that won't cost me anything?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThermalVent*
> 
> So I emailed them again, no response as of yet.
> 
> Is the email address still: [email protected]?
> 
> Am I also correct in thinking that this is also for an advanced shipped replacement that won't cost me anything?


Not sure about the address, but it sounds right.
With Corsair you have to pay the return shipping. They pay for the replacement shipping.


----------



## DauhU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DauhU*
> 
> best and quickest response is over the phone. email requests usually have been answered in 24/48hrs from my followup experience after first calling them.
> 
> 
> 
> I called them up and they told me I had to request it online.
> 
> So I went to some weird backsite attached to Corsair: http://corsair.force.com
> 
> There you can make, edit, and cancel RMA tickets.
> 
> I RMA'ed my H100 this way and I got an H100i in return.
> Although the return was bittersweet because the fans it came with made a buzz noise just the previous motor in the H100. -_-
> 
> I also RMA'ed my HX 600W PSU that way.
> My HX600W was sent in a beat up box with _chewing gum_ plastered on the side.
> But I didn't mind because the PSU worked fine.
Click to expand...

true. started the online request then called afterwards.

Mine came sealed and basically brand new  dunno whyd u get a beat up box one.


----------



## ashash

hi everyone

i got corsair h100, it has noise problem, i cannot rma cause there's no corsair support in my country

i dont have problem with noise but as i read in forums it must run at 1700rpm at max speed but it runs at 2100rpm and thats the reason it makes noise

1-if i keep it in 2100rpm and dont mind the noise, does it harm the pump?

2- if i use 2 serial 1N4007 for slowing pump around 1700, is it safe? and can it handle pump + 2 corsair fans (the fans came with corsair h100 box) ?

help me please

thank you


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ashash*
> 
> hi everyone
> 
> *i got corsair h100, it has noise problem*, i cannot rma cause there's no corsair support in my country
> 
> *i dont have problem with noise* but as i read in forums it must run at 1700rpm at max speed but it runs at 2100rpm and thats the reason it makes noise
> 
> 1-if i keep it in 2100rpm and dont mind the noise, does it harm the pump?
> 
> 2- if i use 2 serial 1N4007 for slowing pump around 1700, is it safe? and can it handle pump + 2 corsair fans (the fans came with corsair h100 box) ?
> 
> help me please
> 
> thank you


The pump supposed to run at 21XX RPM. The noise was not because the pump speed. Actually I don't know what exactly causing the problem because mine running silently.









When you use the diode (1N4001 to 1N4007 - refer to first post), the pump will run at reduce speed & the noise should go away.


----------



## ashash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The pump supposed to run at 21XX RPM. The noise was not because the pump speed. Actually I don't know what exactly causing the problem because mine running silently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you use the diode (1N4001 to 1N4007 - refer to first post), the pump will run at reduce speed & the noise should go away.


well i mean i dont care its noisy, but i'm worry about pump health when it makes noise

when i use 2 x 1N4007 serial, i dont have noise problem anymore but the pump runs about 1700rpm

my question is if i leave it noisy without diodes, is it safe or it harms the pump?

and connecting 2 x 1N4007 in serial mode is safe and enough for pump + 2 x corsair fans?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ashash*
> 
> well i mean i dont care its noisy, but i'm worry about pump health when it makes noise
> 
> when i use 2 x 1N4007 serial, i dont have noise problem anymore but the pump runs about 1700rpm
> 
> my question is if i leave it noisy without diodes, is it safe or it harms the pump?
> 
> and connecting 2 x 1N4007 in serial mode is safe and enough for pump + 2 x corsair fans?


Two diodes should be fine if it still make noise with one diode. I've read people use two diodes before & I can't recall if there is any problem with it. So, you should be fine running the pump at 1700 RPM but that is the minimum you want go.

If I'm not mistaken it's mechanical noise, so it will harm the pump in the long run.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ashash*
> 
> hi everyone
> 
> i got corsair h100, it has noise problem, i cannot rma cause there's no corsair support in my country
> 
> i dont have problem with noise but as i read in forums it must run at 1700rpm at max speed but it runs at 2100rpm and thats the reason it makes noise
> 
> 1-if i keep it in 2100rpm and dont mind the noise, does it harm the pump?
> 
> 2- if i use 2 serial 1N4007 for slowing pump around 1700, is it safe? and can it handle pump + 2 corsair fans (the fans came with corsair h100 box) ?
> 
> help me please
> 
> thank you


You should not get Diodes anymore.

Corsair has fixed the issue with all the current inventory (H100) and are even giving H100i as a replacement instead (at least in my case).

Contact Corsair through http://corsair.force.com/ or email or phone.

Return your faulty unit.

If you really truly can't return the item, then yes 2 diodes will fix it. Some only need 1 diode.
The pump should run around 1700-1900rpm. 2100rpm is caused by the pump overvolting itself from the PSU.

This might sound condescending, but I would really think about buying products with no return policy in your country.
Things go wrong all the time.


----------



## jincuteguy

So does anyone have the issue with the rattling noise ONLY when you start up your system from a cold boot? (i.e turn off over night) Like the noise only lasts for about 5-10second from the start up, and then it disappear until i turned off the computer for at least 2hours and turn it on again.

I had this problem with the Thermaltake Water 2.0 Performer which I don't use anymore. Then I bought the Corsair H100i and the same issue. Now I'm using the new Silverstone TD-02 and still have the issue on start up.

What I want to know is this normal for all of these Asetek / CoolIT based coolers? Most people that having this rattle noise pump issue is whenever they 're running their computer. But for me, this issue only happen when I start up the computer and only last about 10second. So does anyone else have this problem? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## MrMult

Hi guys!

I tried reaching out to "wlw_wl" to get a voltdropper but unfortunately he haven't answered.
Anyone else who's able to create a voltdropper and send it to me (sweden)?

I would LOVE to have one since my pump is making me insane over here.

If someone cares to help out, feel free to e-mail me at [email protected]

Ofcourse I will pay for the work/shipment for the modified molex-contact.


----------



## fashric

I had to make one for my H100 and I still have some diodes left so I can make you one but it wont be sleeved like the pic in the first post.


----------



## kokpa

Guys a little help, I know one a second h80 after i rma first. Now after half a year, a fan controler doesn't light up, can't control fans, motherboard says cpu fan error beacuse h80 signal of the pump doesn't send motherboard signal of rpm of the pump. It look like the pump is working but not at full speed, beacuse temp. in idle raised a 5 deg. I tried firmware upgrade(holding 5 sec). It just doesn't light up. Should i RMA?


----------



## MrMult

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fashric*
> 
> I had to make one for my H100 and I still have some diodes left so I can make you one but it wont be sleeved like the pic in the first post.


This is fantastic news!









I don't care about the looks as long as it works







.

Can you e-mail me at: [email protected] or send me a PM here on overclock.net so that I can share my adress.
We also have to figure out the payment, PayPal?

Thank you for helping!


----------



## kokpa

Had someone tried fixing fan controller on h80. It doesn' t show rpm signal and cant control fans.


----------



## masteroverload

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fashric*
> 
> I had to make one for my H100 and I still have some diodes left so I can make you one but it wont be sleeved like the pic in the first post.


could you please make such a diode mod for me too?
write pm i can pay with paypal
thanks


----------



## Raephen

Just a heads up: using a fan controller to regulate the voltage that goes to the pump is a viable way of controlling the speed.

Just tried it out for myself with a simple pci-bracket type with a knob for vr and a 3-pin fan (female) to 4-pin molex (female) adapter.

I installed the bracket, plugged it's power-feed molex onto one from the psu. I then connected the female 3-pin to the pci-bracket controller and attached the female 4-pin molex to the power feed for the H100 I have in my HTPC now.

With a bit of tweaking the knob on the fan controller, I have the pump running at some 1881 rpm.

A bit more wires to manage than with a resistor modded molex feed, but also a bit more control.

Cheers!


----------



## wlw wl

Hello guys and gals,

yes, it's me, back to life so to speak.

There are some of you who were supposed to receive voltage droppers but didn't. I can't apologize enough that you didn't get them back then.
I'm in the process of sorting out that past mess and identifying who I neglected. I will attempt to contact those people. If you're one of them, please let me know.

I see this thread has grown a lot and people kept using my instructions, great to see that!

If you have any questions, feel free to ask here.
Now off to get up to speed and sort out PMs


----------



## fc0712

does it decrease the cooling potential of an h100?


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fc0712*
> 
> does it decrease the cooling potential of an h100?


I'd honestly think: no, not really.

To be sure, there are situations where the difference will be noticeable, but those would be ones that are pushing the H100 to it's limits as is.

In those situations, the cheapest way to get arround it are modding the H100: a copper radiator would do miracles instead of the stock aluminium one. It'd be a cheap way to get in to a custom loop if you'd want to: some 1/4" ID tubing, a (micro) resevois and some 1/4" fitings and you're set. oh, and cooling fluid, of course (beit pre mixed or just demi water with anti freeze).


----------



## adriangb

I have an H100, is the rma process any different for units with the noise? All the new units shipping out are problem-free, correct?


----------



## g3p0

I bought an H100 new in box unopened.. I have a hot LGA775 chip and would love to break it open and install it...

Is there anything I should do before hand? maybe my h100 is effeted by this issue? I don't know.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *g3p0*
> 
> I bought an H100 new in box unopened.. I have a hot LGA775 chip and would love to break it open and install it...
> 
> Is there anything I should do before hand? maybe my h100 is effeted by this issue? I don't know.


Just go ahead an install the cooler. It should work fine. If you do run into issues (llike a to loud pump noise), we could find a solution together.

What cooling are you using now? Stock?

And what type of installation are you thinking of? Top exhaust / intake? Front? Stock fan, or one of your own favorite brand?


----------



## g3p0

going for a top intake in a Thermaltake Shark, getting ready to tear it down and dreml some lid.
haven't decided with the open air side panel window.. what to do with the front and rear fans, not really sure they do much if anything in this case.

cooling with the old TR Ultra-120 Extreme with 2x 120's, I don't see any temp benefit with one fan vs 2 but it look's better...


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *g3p0*
> 
> going for a top intake in a Thermaltake Shark, getting ready to tear it down and dreml some lid.
> haven't decided with the open air side panel window.. what to do with the front and rear fans, not really sure they do much if anything in this case.
> 
> cooling with the old TR Ultra-120 Extreme with 2x 120's, I don't see any temp benefit with one fan vs 2 but it look's better...


I've never been one for top intakes. Maybe I'm old-school and dumb in thinking hot air always seems to want to rise up.

Sure, I've read a few test - top in vs out - but there wasn't much difference to it.

You just go ahead and keep us posted on your results.

PS - what chip? what mobo? what psu? You might want to consider filling out your rig builder so we can give you better advic. ..


----------



## g3p0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> I've never been one for top intakes. Maybe I'm old-school and dumb in thinking hot air always seems to want to rise up.
> 
> Sure, I've read a few test - top in vs out - but there wasn't much difference to it.
> 
> You just go ahead and keep us posted on your results.
> 
> PS - what chip? what mobo? what psu? You might want to consider filling out your rig builder so we can give you better advic. ..


I went through and filled out my rigbuilder..
pretty close to what I have, alot of older gear but it still gets the job done, with 6200 marks CPUmark puts it in around the i5 2550k with my overclock.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *g3p0*
> 
> I went through and filled out my rigbuilder..
> pretty close to what I have, alot of older gear but it still gets the job done, with 6200 marks CPUmark puts it in around the i5 2550k with my overclock.


That Xeon chip has a TDP of 120W right? Of course, TDP goes out the window once overclocked, but sure, I see no reason why the H100 would not handle it.


----------



## g3p0

yep, x5460 is 120W.. it may just be the chip, but this x5460 runs slightly cooler than my e5450 with an 80w TDP on the same board and cooler / settings, the 120w chip gets hot quicker, but it levels off a few degrees cooler.. In either case I'm not happy about running 65-70c under load


----------



## Butternut101

so i started to get the freaking noise and it is pissing me off i bought it in October from newegg so im out of that 30 day deal with them and so i tried to contact corsair to see if they will do something about it but that was last week







and i still haven't gotten anything from them i know its the holidays but come on i cant take this noise anymore


----------



## dumboy

Has anyone tried 7v mod??

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=372297

Edit nvm someone on first page says pump is too slow


----------



## Nicnivian

I had the grinding noise in my H80 for abour 2 days and today the pump has officialy died.

Put the CPU clock back to default as it was throttling (obviously)
Seems to be working for now, it's just not moving the water is all. But I bought a new H80i so that should be here soon.


----------



## BobT36

Doesn't seem like the OP has been around for a while. I could really do with one of those voltage droppers









Had my H80 since December 2011. Has been grinding for the last year or so, my case now has a huge dint as a result. (Thumping gives me a second or so peace from the grinding, as horrifying as that is when I'm of sane mind after switching it off heh).

Unsure about arsing around taking the entire coolant unit out, RMA'ing it, getting another, installing that etc when I don't have much time at home. If I did manage to drop the voltage and lower the grinding sound, I'm presuming the cooler is ok to continue using otherwise? As in the grinding is caused by a shaft / bearing issue, not something which will hurt it in the long run ya?


----------



## Pings

It's because they are made by Coolit Systems. Enough said....


----------



## clone38

My H80 pump is grinding now ive had it a few years now don't know if I can RMA it.


----------



## Andrew LB

So today I upgraded my old i7-860 to a shiny new 4670K and while reinstalling my H80i on the new board/cpu, i noticed the boots where the hose meets the pump/radiator are cracked all to heck. And to top things off, I just dropped $14 on a tiny syringe of CooLaboratory's Liquid Ultra... and about 6 hours after using the liquid metal (both under the IHS and on top)... my pump starts rattling for the first time ever.

I seriously want to take this thing with me to the shooting range tomorrow but it could be under warranty still. Does the H80i have a year warranty? Brb... gonna check newegg for my invoice.

Edit:

So I bought it on March 23, 2013. One year and 7 days ago. LoL. So typical.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> So today I upgraded my old i7-860 to a shiny new 4670K and while reinstalling my H80i on the new board/cpu, i noticed the boots where the hose meets the pump/radiator are cracked all to heck. And to top things off, I just dropped $14 on a tiny syringe of CooLaboratory's Liquid Ultra... and about 6 hours after using the liquid metal (both under the IHS and on top)... my pump starts rattling for the first time ever.
> 
> I seriously want to take this thing with me to the shooting range tomorrow but it could be under warranty still. Does the H80i have a year warranty? Brb... gonna check newegg for my invoice.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> So I bought it on March 23, 2013. One year and 7 days ago. LoL. So typical.


H80i have 5 years warranty. If you do bring it with you to the shooting range, please take a picture.


----------



## hakz

or better, video.


----------



## Andrew LB

If an RMA is denied, I will definitely take video. I'd love to see what my LMT AR10 would do to it, especially since anything filled with a fluid makes for added laugh factor.

About two years ago the range I do computer work for finally replaced their DROS (Dealer Record of Sale) system which is used for all firearm purchases/transfers as well as the background check because it's Pentium 4 was just a little outdated, and since the employees and I all hated that piece of junk, we felt we'd dispose of it in the most fitting manner possible.It involved a long extension cord, power strip, and the ancient computer, keyboard, CRT display, etc... sitting on a couple cardboard boxes... all powered up about 25' down-range. AR15's made short work of the computer in a rather gratifying way, while at the same time thoroughly destroyed the hard drive which was mandated to be destroyed anyway by the DOJ because of all the private data of customers on it.I'm still kicking myself in the a$$ for not filming it, but in the long run it's better that we didn't due to the current regime in power and their hate of the 2nd Amendment and those who support it. Funny how they've been audited almost every year since 0bummer took office, yet not a single time during Bush or Clinton's time in office.
Quote:


> or better, video. tongue.gif


----------



## janshim

Hi. First post here and looking for someone who can send me the diode fix. I run an Asus ROG Maximus V Gene @ 4.6GHz, watercooled using Corsair H80 that has recently started making a faint grinding noise. Also, both fans are powered through the Corsair controller. I am looking for someone who have a couple of the fix (molex adapter and one diode and two just in case one doesn't work) to mail them to Brunei. Happy to pay for materials and shipping.


----------



## Ki01

what value resistor should be used for this? i'm thinking about grabbing a potentiometer to fine-tune the exact power. (i need to wait 2 days for the diodes to be delivered if i order them. too impatient







)

edit:

well, i can tell you that it's not 1000, 100, 50, 33, 25 or 20 ohms..... that's how many contraptions i could make from the stuff i had laying around. + the little things get pretty hot. wish the bastards stocked the diods locally

ah there it is. 7,5 ohms seems to be about right. the pump runs at 1900rpm then
10 ohms bring it down to about 1600, the resistor gets pretty hot tho, so as the OP said diodes are better


----------



## nick779

Does anyone here have an H105 with a watery, or almost ticking noise?


----------



## Pylon

Looks like my H60 suffers from the dreaded grinding pump noise. It happens on cold boot and after a shutdown of more than a minute or two. It lasts about 30 seconds and then goes away on each cold boot. Tried different voltages using a molex connector with no success. Seems like it's an issue that I heard about where air gets trapped in it until it gets pushed out. Any suggestions on how to fix this for good? RMA?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

hi is this thread still active? op? corsair george?hellooo ?i need some advise with an h70..


----------



## rotorwash

bump


----------



## umeng2002

When my H80 pump was grinding, I just tapped it with my finger and it stopped.


----------



## darealist

So my 2011 h60 rma came back with a brand new 2013 edition h60, but the pump noise is still soooo annoying. Ran this sob on all kinds of RPM, and the sound is terrible. Thinking about switching back to air.


----------



## umeng2002

I'm putting in an RMA for my H80 I got Jan 2012. It has it all:

Grinds when block is horizontal no matter what
Grinds when block is vertical but can be remidied by flicking the block with your finger
Low speeds have been lost. Each profile only has like medium and high speeds

And the final kicker is that the performnace is erratic like a blockage is moving around in there. It's like 10 C difference. I thought it was just air but I moved it around, remounted, everything. Finally it started to perform well, but the temps would slowly creep up. So I figured out that I have to flick the hoses every minute or so and the temps drop back down...

Nice little extra fun with my new 8320E. I couldn't belive I hit a thermal wall at 4.2 GHz with an H80... but it turns out my H80 is pretty much kaput.

Thank god it has a 5 year warranty.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

just get in touch with their rep
corsair joseph here on the forums..hell be glad to sort you out..


----------



## umeng2002

Just got my RMA unit, their customer service is great. No overheating problems now.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

post a pic im curious to see this badboy


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Just got my RMA unit, their customer service is great. No overheating problems now.


Glad to hear that







enjoy your new cooler

Should you run into any issues with that replacement,, feel free to contact me anytime


----------



## X-PREDATOR

now guys..please take note----you cant diss corsair for these units issues..
THEYRE NOT MANUFACTURED DIRECTLY BY THEM BUT OUT SOURCED FROM OTHER
OEMS...
above statement is proof how dedicated and good their aftersales are...
plus millions reps (if i could) to corsair


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> now guys..please take note----you cant diss corsair for these units issues..
> THEYRE NOT MANUFACTURED DIRECTLY BY THEM BUT OUT SOURCED FROM OTHER
> OEMS...
> above statement is proof how dedicated and good their aftersales are...
> plus millions reps (if i could) to corsair


+ rep


----------



## Locool676

I bought my H100 from Tigerdirect onan awesome deal I got. It has been rock solid since the inception of the Easy Bake. Heck, I don't even remember when I got it. All I know is that I made sure not to mess with it alt all and leave the serial number on it.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

cool...i reasembled my modded h70 on thursday so i could take it with me to local hardware store to check/buy correct size tubes..found reinforced garden clear tubes..which fit perfectly..hopefully theyll withstand the punishment..haha..


----------



## Fiercy

Hello, I just got H100i GTX and set it up in pusp pool with 4 ap-15 and my idle temp was 32-35 + my unit make a crazy rating like sound... and that's stock speed.. with 5820k
I trayed to overclock to 4.2 but with that I have 52 idle i don't get this what did I do wrong...and I don't know seems like the only thing i can hear in pc is pump making this very annoying noise.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Hi is it all hooked up securely?fans bolts?power directly from psu>not mobo?
have you tried running the unit without the link software?


----------



## Ki01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiercy*
> 
> Hello, I just got H100i GTX and set it up in pusp pool with 4 ap-15 and my idle temp was 32-35 + my unit make a crazy rating like sound... and that's stock speed.. with 5820k
> I trayed to overclock to 4.2 but with that I have 52 idle i don't get this what did I do wrong...and I don't know seems like the only thing i can hear in pc is pump making this very annoying noise.


if you're not sure if it's the pump then, set your cpu back to stock speeds and unplug the fans (while the system is turned off) then boot up the system and you should hear it. if you're still unsure if it's the pump then you can turn off the whole thing. and see if the sound is still there. it shouldn't overheat as long as you don't stress the cpu with a benchmark or keep it on for a long time. it's good enough for checking.

and did i hear it right? they moved away from the sata power plug to 4pin power from the mb? call me old fashioned but i liked that one better.


----------



## Fiercy

I checked it. I read online you can stop the noise if you disconnect the fans from the pump. So I connected them somewhere else and the pump wasn't making noise. But my temps are crazy 32-37 idle no overclock and after a couple of mins its started to wine again. Is this thing faulty?


----------



## Ki01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiercy*
> 
> I checked it. I read online you can stop the noise if you disconnect the fans from the pump. So I connected them somewhere else and the pump wasn't making noise. But my temps are crazy 32-37 idle no overclock and after a couple of mins its started to wine again. Is this thing faulty?


one more thing that you can try is searching your bios for cpu fan settings, it might be that the amount of current to the thing is being limited, ya know. like when you have a fan connected and it isn't going at ful lspeed when the cpu isn't hot.

this is not some sort of official knowledge, so don't expect much but we might aswell try everything that we can


----------



## Fiercy

Well today in the morning I turned it on rattling idle temps for 5820 3.3GHz 44 degrees. I removed it completely and packaged for a refund. My bios settings never limited CPU fan in any way.

I ordered another h100i GTX I hope it will be working... because I am sure there is no way it should idle at 44C and making this horrible noise. I heard from people that this things are silent.


----------



## Ki01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiercy*
> 
> Well today in the morning I turned it on rattling idle temps for 5820 3.3GHz 44 degrees. I removed it completely and packaged for a refund. My bios settings never limited CPU fan in any way.
> 
> I ordered another h100i GTX I hope it will be working... because I am sure there is no way it should idle at 44C and making this horrible noise. I heard from people that this things are silent.


aaaw :/ best of luck then


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiercy*
> 
> Well today in the morning I turned it on rattling idle temps for 5820 3.3GHz 44 degrees. I removed it completely and packaged for a refund. My bios settings never limited CPU fan in any way.
> 
> I ordered another h100i GTX I hope it will be working... because I am sure there is no way it should idle at 44C and making this horrible noise. I heard from people that this things are silent.


Sorry to hear that. But it sounded like it was the pump that's causing all the trouble. Only to get that fixed is to replace the cooler.

If you still have that faulty unit, do you mind posting the lot code? It can be found on the box or radiator. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Fiercy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Sorry to hear that. But it sounded like it was the pump that's causing all the trouble. Only to get that fixed is to replace the cooler.
> 
> If you still have that faulty unit, do you mind posting the lot code? It can be found on the box or radiator. Thanks in advance.


I still have it when I get home I will pm it to you. I was just surprised with a crazy flow of air the 4 ap-15 did it was super loud but temps were 32-37 and at the point I didn't hear the pump. Switching to two Noctuas running half RPM It was impossible to sit next to PC due to that pump sound. When I was installing it I did everything according to the manual so I don't know... Am I correct to assume that with AP-15 I should expect idle temps to be at leasts 22-24 and that my high idle temps were because of something being wrong with the pump?


----------



## Corsair Joseph

That'd be great. Much appreciated









We've never tested our coolers with any third party fans, so I wouldn't really know what to expect when you pair them up with some AP-15 fans. But in most cases, idle temp will be highly dependent on your ambient temp. So find out what your ambient temp is, and you will have an idea what to expect on your idle temp.


----------



## Fiercy

I think my idle is around 70-75 Fahrenheit so what temp should I look for at idle? Also was this what you were looking for?


----------



## X-PREDATOR

anything from the sandy to current cpus NO MATTER what cooler all NORMAL IDLE temps shouldn't exceed 30-45 degrees depending on were you live(hot regions with high daily temps)

and remember that some chips run hotter than others and we all know how "sensitive" the new chips are to Ocing Fun....

glad to that your getting helped promptly by the Sargent...

Corsair should perhaps consider testing there coolers individually one by one to check for defects???a tedious task but it can reduce rmas dramatically and perhaps use other fans also to test///keep the faith peeps///


----------



## Fiercy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> Sorry to hear that. But it sounded like it was the pump that's causing all the trouble. Only to get that fixed is to replace the cooler.
> 
> If you still have that faulty unit, do you mind posting the lot code? It can be found on the box or radiator. Thanks in advance.


So i got new H100i GTX today and it's dead silent and stock 100% load temps are not getting higher then 40 degrees now. This is my idle temps


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Corsair should perhaps consider testing there coolers individually one by one to check for defects???a tedious task but it can reduce rmas dramatically and perhaps use other fans also to test///keep the faith peeps///


We do have a dedicated QC team that checks these coolers to make sure that everything is in order before releasing a certain batch.

Perhaps popular and good third party fans, now that's feasible.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiercy*
> 
> So i got new H100i GTX today and it's dead silent and stock 100% load temps are not getting higher then 40 degrees now. This is my idle temps
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for providing that lot code Fiercy, that would help us track if this pump noise issue is only exclusive to a certain lot.

Glad to hear that the replacement is dead silent







And those temps are very good, I wouldn't worry about that part now.


----------



## gmangut

My h100 just starting making those noises constantly . I've heard them before but didn't think much of it since it would only last a few seconds. Now the noise is nonstop. Should I be worried ? I would hate to lose my 2600k it was so hard to find.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gmangut*
> 
> My h100 just starting making those noises constantly . I've heard them before but didn't think much of it since it would only last a few seconds. Now the noise is nonstop. Should I be worried ? I would hate to lose my 2600k it was so hard to find.


What are we looking at here in terms of idle temp? Check your pump's rpm in your BIOS and see if its running around 2200rpm. If its running way out of spec, then I would try and reset the pump's FW. To reset the pump;

1. While the computer is running, hold down the profile button for approximately five seconds
2. Wait one minute, while the unit continues to run
3. Shut down your computer
4. Press and hold the profile button for five seconds while turning on the power to your computer.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

glad also to hear your problem is olved,,,that 5820 sure looks very attractive...mmmm mmm yummeeee...

other dude,,,,try running the pumps power also directly from the psu to see what the temps does and if noise persists

@joseph...i meant what i said as a tease..no pun intended bud..i can imagine how long it takes to inspect a couple thousand units all by hand and set each one up on an actual test bench system..and see whats what...


----------



## gmangut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corsair Joseph*
> 
> What are we looking at here in terms of idle temp? Check your pump's rpm in your BIOS and see if its running around 2200rpm. If its running way out of spec, then I would try and reset the pump's FW. To reset the pump;
> 
> 1. While the computer is running, hold down the profile button for approximately five seconds
> 2. Wait one minute, while the unit continues to run
> 3. Shut down your computer
> 4. Press and hold the profile button for five seconds while turning on the power to your computer.


25c at 2000-2090rpm. I did the reset you recommended. I still get the same sound. Temperatures seem okay but gargle noise keeps going. I also tried the direct connect to psu still no go. Thanks for the response btw.


----------



## Corsair Joseph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gmangut*
> 
> 25c at 2000-2090rpm. I did the reset you recommended. I still get the same sound. Temperatures seem okay but gargle noise keeps going. I also tried the direct connect to psu still no go. Thanks for the response btw.


Thanks for the update gmangut. Sounds like the pump is the issue here,I say get that unit replaced via RMA, Corsair.force.com. You can send me the ticket # when you get one.


----------



## Dyson Poindexter

Hi everyone! I have an H55 modded onto a R9 290. Cooling performance is great, but the pump makes a loud buzzing sound, and every few minutes it makes a "bloop" sound like a bubble makes its way from the rad to the pump. Would the diode trick help with either? Everywhere I read said that undervolting the pump could damage it.


----------



## PsyChoRo

Hi guys,
I have a H80 and also have quite inconvenient noise coming from the water pump.

I've asked Corsair support what are the acceptable noise levels of the pump and they created a RMA request, which was approved immediately.

Does it makes sense to send it for RMA ? Has anything change in the last few months regarding this ?

Thank you.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

it has cause if they cant repair or replace with identical unit by law you as customer have the option to politely ask them what are they gonna do too help you fix the problem.
They are always more than happy to get consumer feedback and help their users...i suggest you proceed with rma or talk to corsair george or joseph and ask them:thumb:


----------



## wlw wl

Joseph, so the "i" series have the same kind of direct pump control like the older units? I mean the same kind of "pump speed set by voltage divider directly from input voltage" design?


----------



## Hdusu64346

I bought an H105 back in December and the pump has been grinding nonstop. Tapping on the tubes did not help.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

try holding the rad up higher then the pump..this is clearly an unit with too little liquid or faulty pump bearing ...log a ticket with Corsair asap on their forums..Joseph is currently very busy (as is all current OEMS) for getting there stuff ready for Computex:thumb:


----------



## jdorje

Never noticed pump noise before, but running the unit with my case on its side and the radiator suspended directly above the pump caused SEVERE rattling. Moving the radiator around does not seem to change things in either orientation; it's all about the pump's orientation.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

wish the manufacturers would just start designing these with fill ports and incl a 2L bottle of the coolant mix they use...i know...there are such units already,,but im thinking of a different design method....

try shaking the whole unit while powered..note..not the entire PC..just the unit...


----------



## jdorje

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> wish the manufacturers would just start designing these with fill ports and incl a 2L bottle of the coolant mix they use...i know...there are such units already,,but im thinking of a different design method....
> 
> try shaking the whole unit while powered..note..not the entire PC..just the unit...


How do I get the whole unit powered without attaching it to the pc? Sounds like a pain in the ass. I have it upright again with no issues, but I'll try some movement of the pump to liberate the bubbles if I do get that problem again.

Where are the bubbles *supposed* to go? Seems like an AIO should have a small reservoir where they can rest...


----------



## cjavier

Coming back to this thread to say that my H80 annoying sound is back,

it was solved for almost 2 years with the help of wlw wl fix, but now im experiencing the noise under load.

i guess it is time to switch no another cooling solution and go back to air


----------



## X-PREDATOR

If the noise is back..its more than likely that the pump inside is saying bye bye Mis american pie..drove the temps to the levvy and now the unit is dry...

Sorry to here that..
Hey why not mod the cooler with real tubes and destilled etc.might just work out ok?

From my own experiments..when doing this type of mod..it definitely improves alot of lost potential..plus gives ya the opportunity to learn a few things..and clean out the gunk inside these aio coolers..when i dismantled a h70 unit..the hole block was gunked up..looked like hair got in there..after cleaning..ran like a cheetah..i must actualy revisit that thing and put it to use..


----------



## jdorje

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> If the noise is back..its more than likely that the pump inside is saying bye bye Mis american pie..drove the temps to the levvy and now the unit is dry...
> 
> Sorry to here that..
> Hey why not mod the cooler with real tubes and destilled etc.might just work out ok?
> 
> From my own experiments..when doing this type of mod..it definitely improves alot of lost potential..plus gives ya the opportunity to learn a few things..and clean out the gunk inside these aio coolers..when i dismantled a h70 unit..the hole block was gunked up..looked like hair got in there..after cleaning..ran like a cheetah..i must actualy revisit that thing and put it to use..


Can you detail to us how you opened it up and closed it again? I'd be pretty interested to read it.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Ok...
1: dunno aboit yhe newer units..but on the original ones..
There are screws/allen nuts holding the plate on on the bottom..also for the barbs (h60 has pins last i saw)

now you can either unscrew this cooler or go nuts and cut the tubes to drain it..i do both.

2..get a bowl or container to drain the unit after removing the tubes..be carefull..use scissors..cause you can actual reuse whats inside..by mixing it with destilled water..

3..male sure not to cut on the barbs..just an inch above them..drain the system..shake it if must be..
Then gently afterwards remove all the tubes by either cutting or wrangling them off gently..heating the ends help..not too much..

4:when unscrewing the cold plate/copper..use contaners marked to keep track of all the screws for each section..once all are out..the base will simply fall out..NB..there should be a oring between tge plate and housing..DO NOT LOSE THIS OR YOURE NUTS..
AFTER THE PLATES OUT USUALY THERES THIS MID SECTION WITH TWO HOLES..THIS IS WERE THE LIQUID IS FORCED IN/OUT..and it sits losely..gently take it out..carefull..on older units like the h70..the shaft on wich the roter/blades inside..are on the mid plate with an annoying rubber pin (the shaft is plastic..dont lose these..trust me..you wont get close to findind an alternative.ive tried)

now youve dismantled the unit..drained..etc..you can get some lemon juice and mix it with some destilled water..50-50mix..now take the cold plate and drop it into this mix..let it sit for a day..then use a toith brush the next day and give it a good scrub..
Oh..almost forgot..there is sometimes this weird black/silver material on the coldplate inside..it acts like a jetplate from a true waterblock..do not remove unless its already very loose..thie is were i found all the gunk
trapped wich was impeding on the flowrate big time.....

Ok6.after cleaning the plate and oring etc..rinse of with destilled..
Dry them off with a clean towel or paper towel..i prefer towel..as it cant leave paper behind..after this blow it off with compressed air..

Reasemble..7:
Basicly put it back same way as each item came apart...make sure its evenly installed.especially the oring that seals the mid section and cold plate...etc...

Get proper tubing..destilled..res (makes it easier to fill...i ddnt and got 95% bubles out took a lot of patience..but worth it..
When doing it this way..you literaly submerge the eads barbs under water in your container with one end already with its tubing attached to the pump..one end stays open..same on the pump..except..the opposite...the tube thats suppose to be on the 2nd barb is on the pump..and is our fill line..now i found that using a funnel or syringe is easier for just first filling to get the liquid in the pump..same principal as custom water cooling..

Pr do what i did..you suck on the open end of the tube to pull the liquid thru and quickly flip on the power to get the pump moving...itll ne atleadt a day or two before its properly filled and blleeded...so BUY A RES IS A HIGHLY RECOMMENDED to make this simpler

have fun..ask anything accept tubing size..i cant remrmber..sorry for bad typing..its 02:26am and im in alot of pain..dentist wasnt very pleasant with me today


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## knightelf

My H80 has this noise.

Any idea where I can still get a voltage dropper?

wlw seems to have been off line for a couple months.

Thanks in advance.


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## X-PREDATOR

you can aslo use mothrboard fanheader and just drop fan speed % from 100% to 80%/75

or use a fancontroller...if you have one...
check on perfomence Pcs..new egg last i saw they had adapters..


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## Penryn

My H75 is making noise now and is no longer pumping. Temps hit 100 so I submitted a ticket.


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## smak420

sorry for bumping old thread, didnt want to spam with another one.

I have i7 2600k and Corsair h100, clocked happily on 4.5 temps in Prime95 never go above 77C

Im using Prime95 without AVX instructions, and as i see around forum people with same chip go with 1.45v and hit 5.0ghz mark with mid 80 temp

My H100 with fans on max, washers on bracket, or without them..hits 95C+ and starts throttling in mater of seconds...is there some fix for that?


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## lukim

*8 yrs later*

Getting this rattle now after 8 years of heavy use on my H100.
Dropping the voltage tomorrow, lets see.


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## SOSTrooper

lukim said:


> Getting this rattle now after 8 years of heavy use on my H100.
> Dropping the voltage tomorrow, lets see.


Wow, same here. I bought this unit back in 2011 for my then i7 920. It's been cooling my i7 6700 for 4 years now after the upgrade and yesterday it started making grinding noise. Nine years of service, I guess I'm lucky to have it last this long. Probably will try the diode mod myself.


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