# My Bong Cooler Build Log (Evaporative Cooling)



## [ShowMe!]

Some Progress

Tested the Water Pump

Cut Two Blanks To Make A Base To Mount The Bong






Wondering what looks best...


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## XanderTheGoober

Not sure what i am looking at. but it looks fun.


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## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Not sure what i am looking at. but it looks fun.


a giant bong without the marajuana. its for evaporative cooling of a PC. think...pc cooling bob marley style


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## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCSarge*
> 
> a giant bong without the marajuana. its for evaporative cooling of a PC. think...pc cooling bob marley style


I'll stick around to see what comes of this


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## mk16

interesting, hope the mods dont delete it.


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## vaporizer

i love bongs. subbed


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## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> interesting, hope the mods dont delete it.


Interesting, why would mods delete it...

Their is even a thread called The Official Bong Lovers Club {56k FAIL} on the forums.
http://www.overclock.net/t/406256/the-official-bong-lovers-club-56k-fail/0_100

Anyway, made some more progress, Im sick so I am taking it slow.

I mounted the two wood rings that would hold up the bong part of the cooling system.


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## [ShowMe!]

Some More Progress
Cut-outs


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## unknown601

This looks...... interesting







... its the strangest way to cool a pc i have seen







.


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## Wirerat

SUBBED....


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## V1ct1m1z3r

you have my attention...


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## [ShowMe!]

Forgot to post this picture, I got the tubes pre-cut did not even have to cut them...


Some more items...


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## [ShowMe!]

Test fit the fans...

I have a total gap of about .100 inch, .050 per side.

This is going to be a real tight fit, will have to be almost perfectly on center to rotate and not rub.

Air Series AF120 Performance Edition High Airflow 120mm Fan's
63.47 CFM
Sound Level 30 dBA
Speed 1650 RPM
Power Draw 0.13 A


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## ZytheEKS

Oh dang, did you strip the fans off their case? That's pretty impressive! If that gap worries you then you could always build a cover for it. Just a piece of sheet metal or acrylic, and cut out a 10cm hole, then mount that on the intake side of the fan, so that way it blocks that gape from "leaking air" so to speak.

I wonder how hard it would be to rig a dehumidifier to the intake. The lower the humidity on the intake, the better the evap will work. Anyways, nice setup, definitely subbed.


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## [ShowMe!]

I got the cheapest shower heads and drilled out the centers to make it in to a low water pressure operation.




Did a test to make sure the pump can lift water to the proper height and enough flow for two shower heads...



Created holes and installed fittings for the pc water loop.






Glued the bongs in....




Sorry for low text content, if you guys have questions ask...


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## ThijsH

Are you using just wood as lid for that reservoir? Wood is very permeable; air, water and nano particles can pass through it easely. This would of course be bad for the internal water loop's purity longevity.


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## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThijsH*
> 
> Are you using just wood as lid for that reservoir? Wood is very permeable; air, water and nano particles can pass through it easely. This would of course be bad for the internal water loop's purity longevity.


Yep its wood, and you have a valid concern.

I am planning to spray the inside and all creases on the inside with silicone, to separate it completely from moisture/humidity.


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## ThijsH

Ah cool, that should be quiete sealed enough haha. Looking forward to future developments on your build.


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## [ShowMe!]

Drilled a hole for power plug and water hose...



First layer of plastic dip, to cover up some of the ugly...



Created a test setup for the shower heads...


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## [ShowMe!]

The Insides...



The Front...


The Back...


The Water...



From here on, I have to wait for the temp probes, and mount the fans.

Testing will come in a little while...

This is my first bong, it was a little more challenging to build then I tough...


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## Ultra-m-a-n

Subbed for updates


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## 0493mike

Very nicly done. And the water flow looks perfect. Personaly I think it looks fantastic. Rugged yet refined. I once put those misters in front of the pads on an evaporative cooler and it brought the temperature down about 10 more degress. Just a thought but the fans might just blow the mist out and that would be a mess. Still hats off to you nice job.


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## [ShowMe!]

Thx im waiting on temp probes from ebay so I can measure ambient and water temp...

Also waiting on some water cooling parts for pc...

More updates in a little while...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> Very nicly done. And the water flow looks perfect. Personaly I think it looks fantastic. Rugged yet refined. I once put those misters in front of the pads on an evaporative cooler and it brought the temperature down about 10 more degress. Just a thought but the fans might just blow the mist out and that would be a mess. Still hats off to you nice job.


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## RnRollie

nice, its been a while since someone did a bong...
small note: go easy on the fans.. unless you're planning to fill the towers with ping-pong balls you don't need a lot of fan power


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## kaistledine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> i love bongs. subbed


aha second that .


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## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> nice, its been a while since someone did a bong...
> small note: go easy on the fans.. unless you're planning to fill the towers with ping-pong balls you don't need a lot of fan power


Ping pong balls covered in cloth, in transparent tubes! Now that would be an interesting build. The cloth being saturated in water, with air evaping it would increase efficiency while flying ping pong balls would make it visually amusing.


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## RnRollie

except that pingpong bals in saturated cloth wont bounce that much









nah, you need to take the bong horizontal....outside... in the garden, make it a different kind of evaporative cooling

You need :

a lenght of 1/2" pvc pipe (electric conduit pipe for example) , eg 4-6 feet
drill a few holes equidistance in that pipe
wrap some mosquito netting around it
This will replace the showerhead and become the evaporator

Next needed:

a length of 1/2" hose , gardenhose will do , about 6 feet
a submersible pump , eheim 600/1000 will do
attach the hose to the pipe and to the pump outlet

Next needed:

PVC shedule 40 , 4 or 5" or bigger pipe, eg 2x 6 feet , 1x 3 feet
PVC T to match the pipe , not 90° T, but 79° or 82°
PVC "end" piece
Glue the end piece to a 6 feet pipe.. this will become your upright bottom "stand" / reservoir
Manoever the pump (+hose) through the T . Not straight through, but so that the hose makes a kinda 90° "turn"
Dig a few feet deep hole for the upright reservoir/pipe -or rig something together with some wood/metal, just to make sure that it remains standing upright
Fill the upright pipe/reservoir till a few inches under the brim
Lower the pump +hose into the upright 6 feet reservoir/pipe
mount (no glue needed) the T to the upright pipe
mount the other 6 feet pipe horizontally to the T with the "evap" pipe inside
mount the 3 feet pipe horizontally to the "rear" of the T
mount a (powerfull fan) to the rear of the 3 feet rear section -set to blow INTO the pipe

Optional
Paint the whole horizontal section bright white, paint the vertical parts black or silver
Get a kitchen flour/sugar sieve , paint it bright orange, mount it to 6feet horizontal exhaust
Cut some triangular shapes out of plastic/foam ... paint black ; mount to the 3feet "rear" section (if you do it right it helps keep the fan in place)
Put some black lettering on the forward section

Extra effect:
Throw some really bad camouflage netting over it.
Point the whole contraption at a slight upwards angle toward the nearest airway / flightroute

Side effect:
Enjoy the conversation with the guys in black suits & sunglasses a few days later










Sorry for hijack.
Please continue with your bong project, i like it









.


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## Schmuckley

In! I've been bong cooling for years now








Things I might suggest:
Using an insulated Igloo water keg vs bucket
putting a dash of bleach and 1/2 cup of vinegar (white distilled) every fillup
On mine i have 2 wyes on 1 tube..
fan blowing in on top wye..I use a er..basically a 92 X 38mm Panaflo..
Since i beefed up the fan..I get lower res temps and more cooling capacity.


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## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schmuckley*
> 
> In! I've been bong cooling for years now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Things I might suggest:
> Using an insulated Igloo water keg vs bucket
> putting a dash of bleach and 1/2 cup of vinegar (white distilled) every fillup
> On mine i have 2 wyes on 1 tube..
> fan blowing in on top wye..I use a er..basically a 92 X 38mm Panaflo..
> Since i beefed up the fan..I get lower res temps and more cooling capacity.




It had to be done.









Why not just throw one of these on the intake? Then you could use the ping pong balls


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## Nukemaster

This will be interesting.

Subbed.


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## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Schmuckley*
> 
> In! I've been bong cooling for years now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Things I might suggest:
> 
> Using an insulated Igloo water keg vs bucket
> putting a dash of bleach and 1/2 cup of vinegar (white distilled) every fillup
> On mine i have 2 wyes on 1 tube..
> fan blowing in on top wye..I use a er..basically a 92 X 38mm Panaflo..
> Since i beefed up the fan..I get lower res temps and more cooling capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It had to be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just throw one of these on the intake? Then you could use the ping pong balls
Click to expand...

yeah, but it would also look very much like this


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## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 
> 
> It had to be done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just throw one of these on the intake? Then you could use the ping pong balls


or we could play BINGO when not being cooled.


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## [ShowMe!]

GOOD NEWS EVERY BODY, TEMP PROBE CAME IN!

No load temperature test..

Setup


So I drooped the probe in the bucket and filled it with garden hose...
Outside = Probe in water
Inside= is outside ambient temp


10 min later



18min later



*^^^^^ 14C Below Ambient*


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## [ShowMe!]

Indoor no load temp seems to hover at 17.5C, room temp is 24C.

I used a usb temp logger, the big spike is me putting the probe in boiling water, it was no longer boiling but I just took it off the heater...



I dumped 1.7L of boiling water 212F / 100C, and here is what happened.
This graph is about 30 min long. The two spikes is the probe being disconnected.


16.5C after about an hour...


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## [ShowMe!]

Well folks my little experiment is complete.

The house AC system is set to 74F 24/7.

The room temperature dropped to 25.6C / 71F and the no load water temperature got to 16.5C / 61.7F.

That would be about 9c to 10c below ambient.

I had fun building this little bong, and I learned alot.

I will not be using this specific design for water cooling because I want to design a new bong system and incorporate everything I learned thus far.

Feel free to discuss and make suggestions, give ideas for my next build.

Over all I am happy with the result and I think this will allow me to have a nice overclock for 24/7 operation.

Post all your ideas and toughs, I will start working on the ultimate bong soon...

And holy ****, thx for the 700 views, wow!


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## Destrto

I have a question, since you've just built this. How small could someone potentially make one like this, and still be effective?


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## Wirerat

If you were using this on a pc. What part of the bong would the computer connect to?

Would it just be getting fed the air after passing through the evaporation chamber? Would there be a heatsink or rad inside the chamber?


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## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> If you were using this on a pc. What part of the bong would the computer connect to?
> 
> Would it just be getting fed the air after passing through the evaporation chamber? Would there be a heatsink or rad inside the chamber?


Good question! I will try to explain whats going on and how to use it in a water a pc water cooling system.

*
Whats going on.*

Their is water in the bucket.

Its being pumped to the top of the two large tubes and dumped right back in to the bucket via two shower heads.

On the way down the water evaporates and releases heat that's stored in the water.

The two fans on the y part of the tubes blow air in and up, going up past the water that is going down, to increase the evaporation effect and cool the water faster.

Because the water continues to loop in a closed system, it gets colder and colder.

This is why you get a temperatures lower then the temperatures in your room.

*How to use in in PC Cooling*

The cold water in the bucket can be directly run thru your water cooling loop inside your computer.

Basically the cold water in the bucket replaces your radiator in your water cooling system.

*
How is this better then a water cooling system with a radiator?*

A radiator in the very best case scenario can only cool the water in the loop to room temperature and can never go lower.

A bong cooler can go below ambient temperature and can also handle a lot more heat then a radiator loop. ( For its size )

*So....*

So a bong cooler will give you lower temps, can handle more heat load, and better overclock.

You can also just submerge you actual radiator in the cold water inside the buket, if you do not want to mix the cooling loop water, with the water in the bucket.


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## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a question, since you've just built this. How small could someone potentially make one like this, and still be effective?


It depends on how much heat your trying pump thru the system.
You can build a fairly small system if you are going to run just a cpu or just a gpu and small overclock.

I found this on the internet...


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## [ShowMe!]

HEAT LOAD TESTING @ 450 WATTS





*I AM VERY IMPRESSED BY THE RESULTS!
THIS BONG IS A MONSTER!

Stay tuned for my next build...*


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## RnRollie

*Before everyone goes nuts, a little 101







*

*Evaporative cooling has a tremendous potential, and its cheap.*
The lower the Relative Humidity , the lower it can go, as it it linked to dew point & wet bulb : use psychrometric charts to find the possible range(s)
*-In a very dry environment* (eg a desert) at 30°C ambient (shade), with a RH of 1%, the dewpoint drops to below freezing (-32°C), the wet bulb drops to 14°C... which is +/- 15°C below ambient
*-In a more humid environment* at 30°C ambient , with a RH of 60%, the dewpoint drops to ONLY 21°C, the wet bulb drops to ONLY 25°C... which is ONLY 5°C below ambient

*OP's good results are linked to having a low RH around 20% with a high ambient of +35°C







*

*It does NOT perform better in a colder environment*.. the smaller the delta from zero , the closer wet-bulb comes to "freezing", the less capacity/efficiency (ya know: physics, thermo-dynamics, etc)

*Hot & Dry ambient is the ticket*









*Size matters:* in "a bong" cooling tower (of less that 150 meters high), the longer it takes for the water dropping from the top to reach the floor/reservoir the more "heat" it can release (upto max capacity stored in the water AND the local RH in tower) Local RH matters.. you cannot just build a 30 feet high , 5 inch wide bong and expect it to work. The RH in the bong would be too high, you'ld have to go a 3 feet (or more) wide design
Likewise, you can't go "small" and still have lotsa performance... at some point you have to go to a different kind of evaporative cooling: "Swamp" or "Volenti"









*Drawbacks:*
*-it ain't maintenance free* , you have to top up frequently, the lower the RH the more frequent (but this could be automated)
*-it contaminates very quickly* with dust, hair, flies, toddlers toys, etc so it can NOT be used to replace your radiator in a W/C. You *can* drop your radiator in the bucket, but that is not very efficient.. you are far better off in "splitting" the loop and using a plate heat exchanger
*-it adds (lotsa) moisture to the air:* when used indoors, keep door(s) & window(s) open to create a draft, otherwise the room will very soon feel like a sauna and growth on the walls will occur within a few weeks. You can use a dehumidifier or A/C in the same room.. but then you've just raised your energy bill. Also its best to avoid sucking lots of moist air into your PC.
*-the noise:* it IS a test of character, willpower & bladder control: not everybody can cope with a constant trickling rain noise in their room









However, a lot of these issues can be overcome or used to the advantage. If home-build evap cooling is done right in the right environment, 86 % efficiency can be reached - the industry itself claims 93% for their top-of-the-range solutions.
So, I can't wait to see where [ShowMe!] is going to take this. Its a very very good "proof of concept" already.

















.


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## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> *Before everyone goes nuts, a little 101
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> *Evaporative cooling has a tremendous potential, and its cheap.*
> The lower the Relative Humidity , the lower it can go, as it it linked to dew point & wet bulb : use psychrometric charts to find the possible range(s)
> *-In a very dry environment* (eg a desert) at 30°C ambient (shade), with a RH of 1%, the dewpoint drops to below freezing (-32°C), the wet bulb drops to 14°C... which is +/- 15°C below ambient
> *-In a more humid environment* at 30°C ambient , with a RH of 60%, the dewpoint drops to ONLY 21°C, the wet bulb drops to ONLY 25°C... which is ONLY 5°C below ambient
> 
> *OP's good results are linked to having a low RH around 20% with a high ambient of +35°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> *It does NOT perform better in a colder environment*.. the smaller the delta from zero , the closer wet-bulb comes to "freezing", the less capacity/efficiency (ya know: physics, thermo-dynamics, etc)
> 
> *Hot & Dry ambient is the ticket*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Size matters:* in "a bong" cooling tower (of less that 150 meters high), the longer it takes for the water dropping from the top to reach the floor/reservoir the more "heat" it can release (upto max capacity stored in the water AND the local RH in tower) Local RH matters.. you cannot just build a 30 feet high , 5 inch wide bong and expect it to work. The RH in the bong would be too high, you'ld have to go a 3 feet (or more) wide design
> Likewise, you can't go "small" and still have lotsa performance... at some point you have to go to a different kind of evaporative cooling: "Swamp" or "Volenti"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawbacks:*
> *-it ain't maintenance free* , you have to top up frequently, the lower the RH the more frequent (but this could be automated)
> *-it contaminates very quickly* with dust, hair, flies, toddlers toys, etc so it can NOT be used to replace your radiator in a W/C. You *can* drop your radiator in the bucket, but that is not very efficient.. you are far better off in "splitting" the loop and using a plate heat exchanger
> *-it adds (lotsa) moisture to the air:* when used indoors, keep door(s) & window(s) open to create a draft, otherwise the room will very soon feel like a sauna and growth on the walls will occur within a few weeks. You can use a dehumidifier or A/C in the same room.. but then you've just raised your energy bill. Also its best to avoid sucking lots of moist air into your PC.
> *-the noise:* it IS a test of character, willpower & bladder control: not everybody can cope with a constant trickling rain noise in their room
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, a lot of these issues can be overcome or used to the advantage. If home-build evap cooling is done right in the right environment, 86 % efficiency can be reached - the industry itself claims 93% for their top-of-the-range solutions.
> So, I can't wait to see where [ShowMe!] is going to take this. Its a very very good "proof of concept" already.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


thanks man! I Did not even know this stuff, I saw some one do it a long time ago and wanted to try it...

after testing in my room I realized that this particular design will not be very practical, so I'm doing some research. And reading old threads for ideas...


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## 0493mike

Thanks for the build log it was fun seeing this project all the way through. And thank you RnRollie for all the great information. I've seen bongs before and wondered about their capacity and you have educated me well. Thank you very much.


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## RnRollie

Cheers








Been looking into cooling methods for close to two decades now... if this "moderate climate" zone i'm living in would be a bit dryer, i would have build one outdoor, big enough to replace a room A/C unit.
But alas. Been looking for over a decade into geothermal also... and its definitely the next big project.. if i ever move into a regular house again.. currently, this 7th floor penthouse is a bit unpractical to pursue geothermal









Anyways,

Something to look into : "Volenti" cooler : basically a low efficient Swamp cooler for PC use







You'll stumble upon Nols bong guide & two fantastic "integrated volenti" builds









And some light reading... it gives a lot of insight on what's involved, the principles and such :

EvapCoolingDesignManual.pdf 1367k .pdf file


EDIT: another source to find out about evap cooling ... websites dedicated to the "burning man" event. Lotsa people building evaps (cooling down at the burning man is a must, especially if you accepted some peyote from somebody -it's not the smart thing to do)









.


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## [ShowMe!]

Im just going to leave this here...


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## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!]*
> 
> Im just going to leave this here...


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## [ShowMe!]

*RnRollie*

I would like to run something by you.

I want to try a new design,that would incorporate near silent operation with temperature stability.

For temperature stability, I am thinking of using a 150 quart / 37.5 gallon Coleman cooler. I imagine it would take lots of heat and time to heat up 37.5 gallons of water even 1C, so this should give me good temperature stability.

For near operation silent operation, I only need to reduce the noise of falling water, because the fans are already almost silent. I still search for a way to do this, but it seems putting any type of synthetic fibrous material a little above the surface dramatically reduces that noise of hitting water droplets. I welcome any of your suggestions, you guys have.

The main components that I am thinking about would be.

My dual bong setup
150 quart Coleman Cooler
Some type of plate heat exchanger, i found this one, wondering if it will do a good job...
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9915/ex-rad-171/Koolance_HXP-193_Plate_Heat_Exchanger_no_nozzles.html

What do you think?


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## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!]*
> 
> *RnRollie*
> 
> I would like to run something by you.
> 
> I want to try a new design,that would incorporate near silent operation with temperature stability.
> 
> For temperature stability, I am thinking of using a 150 quart / 37.5 gallon Coleman cooler. I imagine it would take lots of heat and time to heat up 37.5 gallons of water even 1C, so this should give me good temperature stability.
> 
> For near operation silent operation, I only need to reduce the noise of falling water, because the fans are already almost silent. I still search for a way to do this, but it seems putting any type of synthetic fibrous material a little above the surface dramatically reduces that noise of hitting water droplets. I welcome any of your suggestions, you guys have.
> 
> The main components that I am thinking about would be.
> 
> My dual bong setup
> 150 quart Coleman Cooler
> Some type of plate heat exchanger, i found this one, wondering if it will do a good job...
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9915/ex-rad-171/Koolance_HXP-193_Plate_Heat_Exchanger_no_nozzles.html
> 
> What do you think?


input your heat load (eg 500 Watt for CPU + GPU(s), volume of water, start temp, target temp, etc HERE , its easy.
Starting temp would be what your bong could reach in a NO-LOAD situation. Target temp is where you want to pull the plug.








I would advise to use ambient temp as starting temp to find out how long you have without the bong cooling the waters. All this to give you ballpark figures, to define your boundaries or safety margins.
In no way should you ever think: _"it takes 20 minutes for 500 watts to heat up 35 gallons of water from 20°C to 21°C, so i am SAFE for 19 minutes"_ ... Surfing the edge of the abyss is only for those who are immortal or dont feel pain









several ways to reduce noise
§ some mosquito netting or "cheese gauze" or coarse aquarium filter foam to "catch" the droplets. You'll have to experiment with size, angle, thickness. Note that the foam you can buy at aquarium shops tends to be pre-treated to create "life".. you don't want that, it'll be hard enough already to avoid that.

§ change showerheads.. the smaller the drops, the less the splash. You want to get a very fine spray as close as you can get to mist. May need to look into some kind of sprinkler, injector nozzles. There is this system to drip feed plants, maybe with the right pressure they can be used for to build a ring of nozzles to deliver a fine spray?

§ change pump, you are going to need something with a lot more head pressure to get a finer spray. Also needed when routing the water through the plateHX first before its going to the heads/nozzles.

OR

§ step a way from the bong concept, go to an external swamp cooler









*PlateHX* is indeed the way to go... They are incredible efficient exchangers. Unfortunately, they are not that easy to find... the Koolance is one of the smallest available on the market. But maybe with the right (industrial) contacts you can maybe source another one somewhere. The alternative would be to build a tube-in-tube exchanger using copper tubes, but getting the Koolance is the easiest way to go.
Read its specs http://koolance.com/hxp-193-compact-plate-heat-exchanger

You still have to put the submersible pump "behind a filter" though, as clogging up the pump with debris, dust, hair, lego's is bad enough already; but at least a pump can be taken apart to unblock/clean. A clogged up PlateHX becomes a paperweight.

A tip for the bongs... get extra lengths of pipe, a bit more as the "depth" of the coleman + the thickness of the lid + a few inches. It will allow to take the weight of the contraption away from the lid. The idea is to have them standing upright on the bottom inside the coleman and protruding through the lid. If you get the lenghts right, then you only have to put the lid in place and slip the T's of your bong on/over the protruding pipes.

The pipe inside the coleman can be T's or "slash-cut" to allow the water to escape the pipes and slosh inside the coleman before sucked into the pump.

*Note* there is a drawback to a more powerful submersible pump. Your run-of-the-mill submersible eHeim doesn't dump that much heat in the water : between 10 & 30 watts depending on model... but the more power need to have more head pressure, the more heat dump there is in the water. You HAVE to take that into account... so, a mains powered 1/2 HP 300 Watts sump pump is probably not a good idea.








However, a pair of pumps in series will work well. Firs pump is submersed and "lifts" the water out of the coleman into the PlateHX, then a second pump (eg eHeim 600/1000 or DDc or D5) does the rest of the "lifting" to the heads/nozzles.

But thats jumping ahead, first see how far your current pump takes you.

.

Pumps Tested: http://www.danireef.com/2012/04/23/eheim-pumps-1048-1250-and-1260-the-total-comparative-test/

Extra info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Evaporative_cooler








*Warning*: correct maintenance of evap coolers is a must, take it lightly and you die: Legionella.
So, i've warned you, dont come haunting me after you die.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Thx for the info ^^^^ RnRollie!

Legionella - Sound bad according to Wikipedia.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Legionella

I am wondering if adding in a little bit of 30% Food Grade Hydrogen Peroxide would help with neutralizing all bacterial growth.
According to the msds sheet, in its pure form its a lung irritant, I wonder if it would smell and irritate in diluted form.
http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9924299

I got alot of reading up to do, if I want to run 24/7...


----------



## RnRollie

Normally you go through A LOT of water when its running... really a LOT especially if you can make it run "near misting"
So the water itself "going bad" , the chance of water contamination is less... it's the "offline" times and the stagnant corners & filters & crevices and such that need to keep an eye on
Some cleanup now and then is good









And i still would advise to start & top off with distilled, not run it with tap.

Adding stuff to the water... most of the stuff that "kills things" is not harmless and since lot of it is in the vapor, breathing it in is probably the easiest way to find out if its unhealthy or not.

I do not recommend indoor bong use.... it would be far better if you could keep the whole contraption outside and just route a pair of hoses in through the wall. OR set the bong(s) to exhaust (with an elbow) through a window/vent.... A bit like you would set up a portable A/C


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Running outside would be ideal, but how would I stabilize the temps. I think I have the ideal situation with my room being right in the middle of a backyard covered patio, with no direct sunlight during all times of the day, but still, the temps can get to 100 during the day go 45 - 50 at night, here in central California.

I want to keep the temp as stable as possible for a consistent overclock and condensation control.

Do you think this will be possible and would a cheap digital temp controller help with a pre set temp range.

Something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10A-110V-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermocouple-58-194-Fahrenheit-Sensor-/111332982758?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19ebf67fe6


----------



## [ShowMe!]

It seem like a nice air tight window vent idea is the best.

All the heat and humidity will go out side, and the temps would stay stable because the house inside is temp controlled with central ac system.

Thanks for that idea!! Why did I not think of this sooner... hahaha


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!]*
> 
> It seem like a nice air tight window vent idea is the best.
> 
> All the heat and humidity will go out side, and the temps would stay stable because the house inside is temp controlled with central ac system.
> 
> Thanks for that idea!! Why did I not think of this sooner... hahaha


...except... most central HVAC /AC tends to keep the house at 25°C & 40% RH... which kinda limits the usefull range.

Assuming "sea level" atmospheric pressure (760 millimetres of mercury (mmHg)) , 25°C & 40%RH gives you a dewpoint of ~10°C and at wet-bulb of ~16°C
Assume 85% efficiency (which is GOOD for homebuild stuff) , thus
25 - 16 = 9
8 x 0.85 = 7.6
25 - 7.6 = 17.4

OR you can do wetbulb x 1.15 for the upper ballpark, which would be 16 x 1.15 = 18.4, which is probably closer to reality if you count losses. Thus the coolest the bong wil go is between 16°C & 17.5°C , but probably closer to 18°C

If we take 18°C as a "start" temp in the boilcalc and a 500Watt heatload, that gives you a bit over 10 Hrs before 35 gals is heated to 50°C

Now, unless you've "smart" cenral A/C , it wont be able to keep RH in the comfort zone, and thus RH may be a lot lower as 40%.
Say 22% RH as in your initial test

Assuming "sea level" atmospheric pressure, 25°C & 22%RH gives you a dewpoint of 1.8°C and at wet-bulb of ~13°C
Assume 85% efficiency (which is GOOD for homebuild stuff) , thus
25 - 13 = 12
12 x 0.85 = 10.2
25 - 10.2 = 14.8

OR 13 x 1.15 = 14.95

Thus the coolest the bong wil go is between 13°C & 14.9°C , but probably closer to 15°C
If we take 15°C as a "start" temp in the boilcalc and a 500Watt heatload, that gives you a bit over 11 Hrs before 35 gals is heated to 50°C

Now, if you use TWO windows vents, one for intake, one for exhaust, you can feed the bong outside air AND vent the moisture outside
This will bring the performance much closer to the results of your initial tests








But frankly... its easier to just have the hoses for your PC loop going through a (well sealed) port in the window.

Anyways, you'll have to test the cooling performance. Because i'm doing the above calcs from the top of my head, so i could be several degrees off. So, this is your homework for today:

Use the dewpoint calculator to find dewpoint & wetbulb for your location - need to plug in Temp, RH & atmPressure for your location
If you have the numbers for your location AVERAGEs, MINs & MAXs, plug those in to give you a working range

Then use the formulas from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Evaporative_cooler#Performance

Or you can plug in the indoor numbers for TEMP & RH, if you want to feed the bongs indoor air

_*Remember hot & dry is the ticket .*_

Dont worry too much about controlling the conditions, evap is largely "selfregulating", just dont let it run dry or expect top performance on a rainy day. And you've got a large (35gals) thermal buffer also.








And remember: evap can go below ambient but not higher as ambient.
So, if the air temp would be 35°C, the hottest the water in the bong would be is 35°C (PLUS the heatdump of the pump) in no load conditions.
Worst case scenario: If we take 35°C as a "start" temp in the boilcalc and a 500Watt heatload, that gives you a bit over 2 Hrs before 35 gals is heated to 50°C

PS: Free tip for indoor use: "feed" the "hot" air from the PC to the bongs intake









URLs:
dewpoint/wetbulb calc : http://www.srh.noaa.gov/epz/?n=wxcalc_rh
Boil Time Calculator http://www.phpdoc.info/brew/boilcalc.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmospheric_pressure
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Evaporative_cooler#Performance

Temp °F/ °C & RH% comfort zone


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Here is the average yearly temp for the entire year for my zip code of 95677.

http://www.weather.com/weather/wxclimatology/monthly/graph/USCA0952

I am trying to find the average humidity

This shows average humidity of 81%, but that seems to be way off. Its never humid here...

http://www.usa.com/rocklin-ca-weather.htm#HistoricalHumidity

.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!]*
> 
> Here is the average yearly temp for the entire year for my zip code of 95677.
> 
> http://www.weather.com/weather/wxclimatology/monthly/graph/USCA0952
> 
> I am trying to find the average humidity
> 
> This shows average humidity of 81%, but that seems to be way off. Its never humid here...
> 
> http://www.usa.com/rocklin-ca-weather.htm#HistoricalHumidity
> 
> .


ah well, so many factors playing... when its freezing (literally) then its dry, when rain/Snow its humid, when snow melts in spring, its humid. Prevailing winds worldwide are westerly (1), if you're not to far from the coast, its more humid as you would think. But local geography (2) does play a role... being on the leeside of a mountain will yield different numbers. Being "downwind" from a (big) lake plays a role... for all we know these measurements come from a station sitting on the border of Folsom lake. Even city size plays a role (3). There are lots of other (local) variables skewing the averages. Mountain ranges & valleys can affect the weather in such a way that you can refer to the term Microclimate. In parts of the world the Passaat winds regulate weather; in the Alps, the Fohn kicks averages in the nadgers when it occurs; for mediterranean France, the Mistral is something to experience







In your case, you must be familiar with the Santa Ana winds and how they affect the area.

Also... humidity is not the same as Relative Humidity








http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humidity

Anyways, averages can be misleading, looking at the Humidity graphs, one can assume lotsa rain, except for June/July.. which is probably Santa Ana season








I find +80% extremely high.. thats (sub)tropical with lotsa rain... or lotsa mist. Or being at high elevation and suffering from "low clouds" lots of the time. Eg Chamonix


There is probably a reason for it.. if the temps, altitude and aridity of the area only allow litte "saturation", then 80% is quickly reached, although your 80% would probably "feel" like 40% in a more moderate zone...
I honestly dont know how to explain that 80%..







I assume elevation , Sacramento valley, Santa Ana, play a big role in RH% the answer is probably here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relative_humidity

footnotes
(1) Thanks to earth rotating. And even if it weren't, and the sun was orbiting the earth, then there would still be a warmth front trailblazing the Terminator.
But it would be spectacular.. The sun would be racing around earth at such a ginormous speed that it would probably leave a trail.








And there wouldn't be seasons. Just try to draw the path the sun would have to follow to explain 24hrs, day-night cycle with shorter day in winter and longer days in summer. An elipse model of the sun orbiting the earth in a year would explain the seasons, but you would still have to introduce earth rotation to explain the day/night cycle. The earth being static and the sun racing around earth in 24hrs cannot explain seasons. Not even mentioning how to explain the motion of other planets & stars







Which is why this matter was more or less settled about 2400 years ago. Although it was a complex model and wasn't much liked by Aristotle who burned it and replaced it with his own (wrong) model (fame does that to you, you think you know best). It was corrected by Aryabhata , but unfortunately, during the Dark Middles Ages there was a strong revival of what i call "the flat earth society" resulting in Earth being the center of the galaxy and everything revolving around the Vatican. It took a few centuries to get over that again. Anyways, anybody telling you now -in the 21st century- that Earth is at the center of everything should be locked in a padded cell with all the fingerpaint (s)he can eat.









(2) A favourite of all those looking for proof of Global Warming: *Since the beginning of measurements by the Royal Met over 200 years ago the temperature of Manchester (UK) has risen with 7 °C... see there, proof of Global Warming! Repent! Sell your car! Walk! Go back to living in a cave!* What they fail to take into account is that 200 years ago the measurements were less precise AND more importantly the instruments were housed in what could be called a shed in the rural countryside. Every few days a fellow donned his hiking boots and grabbed his notebook and went on a half day trek to the instrument station. (if he was a well to do fellow, he saddled his horse) Today, thanks to urban sprawl, this same station can be considered to be well within city limits. The Victorians weren't idiots, they knew darn well why they didn't house their delicate instruments in the shed adjacent to the kitchen furnace at 50 yards from the railroad track.

(3) Another Trivial Pursuit thing: Many big cities have a "microclimate". Compared to the surrounding countryside, the great city of London (UK) is about 10°C warmer. Thus, also the "air above the city".. the effect is that when it snows in the countryside, in London it rains









.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

My next build starts tomorrow, stay tuned...


----------



## [ShowMe!]

After looking at a 150 quart / 37.5 gallon cooler, I realized it was just way to big, so I settled for a more manageable size of 70 quart / 17.5 gallon cooler.
I made sure to get one with removable hinges, so I could lift the lid straight up instead of opening it, when I am done.
Here are some pics and mock up.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Some progress.

Made all the holes in the top cover.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!]*
> 
> Some progress.
> 
> Made all the holes in the top cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What is that tool and where did you get it. was wondering if that cuts the perfect circles or does it just measure? would be nice for case mods.


----------



## RnRollie

A hole saw, and not a cheap one either if i'm not mistaken


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> A hole saw, and not a cheap one either if i'm not mistaken


Only hole saw i would recognize is the ones that go into the drill. I was hoping that was a tool that you could set to different widths and then cut with it as well. standard hole saws that get inserted in the drills are so limited.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> A hole saw, and not a cheap one either if i'm not mistaken
> 
> 
> 
> Only hole saw i would recognize is the ones that go into the drill. I was hoping that was a tool that you could set to different widths and then cut with it as well. standard hole saws that get inserted in the drills are so limited.
Click to expand...

Ok, technically, its an adjustable hole saw / circle cutter , single arm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hole_saw

there are other types also








 
 


just stay away from these things, especially if they list $ 1.99 :


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Ok, technically, its an adjustable hole saw / circle cutter , single arm
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hole_saw
> 
> there are other types also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just stay away from these things, especially if they list $ 1.99 :


The ones you say to avoid are the ones that i've seen. a 4 inch hole saw like that costs over $20 at my local hardware store


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> The ones you say to avoid are the ones that i've seen. a 4 inch hole saw like that costs over $20 at my local hardware store


As with everything, you get what you pay for.
Obviously the $20 are better quality, and if you dont mistreat them, they are ok.
If however, you are in need to make a couple of holes over the weekend, and then never again for the rest of your life, then the $1.99 have their use


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> What is that tool and where did you get it. was wondering if that cuts the perfect circles or does it just measure? would be nice for case mods.


Hi,

This is a Trepanning Tool.

Its used in the cnc machining industry.

Its like an adjustable fly cutter.

They come in many different shapes and size ranges.

I took some pic's.

They are not like hole saws because they are really beefy, and use a carbide or high speed steel cutting edge, instead of metal.








Cutting perfect circles in sheet metal like a computer case is very hard to do by hand with a hole saw.

Hole saws are designed to be used with soft materials like foam and wood.

This tool is designed for metal cutting, it allows you to set a diameter, and use a pilot hole, the cutting edge is very sharp and hard, making a nice clean cut in metals or other hard materials. .


----------



## Nukemaster

I have something similar from the hardware store that I used to cut a fan hold into the back of my case. Did not expect my case to be so thick.

It was loud and required slowing the drill press down to 600 rpm(or as close as the belts allowed), but in the end it did a good job.










Your cutter looks much more beefy than the one I have.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

So I build the new test rig!

I am still waiting for more usb temp probes. In the next week or so, I want to monitor 24/7 temps running the bong outside.

I want to see how stable the temp will be with no load. I want to know what type of temp variation I can expect from night to day if I run the bong complete outside.

37.5 Gallons should stabilize the water temp changes, this will be interesting.

Here are some new pics of the new bong.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

I like this new design, you can lift the whole thing up, and out.

No need to disconnect anything.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Temp for the Last 1 hour, its still pulling the water down, 37 gallons is alot to cool.


http://cdn.overclock.net/a/a5/a509ec62_1houroutside.jpeg


----------



## [ShowMe!]

2 Hours In,

Im going to sleep, next up date tomorrow.

I wonder how this is going to turn out.

When the probes come from ebay, I will set up a dual graph so you can see the outside and water temp at the same time.


http://cdn.overclock.net/9/93/931bb86e_2Hours.jpeg


----------



## RnRollie

very nicely done








most bongs tend to be.. well ... ghetto
nice to see it done at a more professional level for a change


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> very nicely done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> most bongs tend to be.. well ... ghetto
> nice to see it done at a more professional level for a change


Well this is mostly for testing.

If it will look like it will work for 24/7 operation, then I will put some real effort in to it.

I hope that I can use this for 24/7 operation with a mild to medium cpu and gpu overclock.

6 hours

http://cdn.overclock.net/c/cd/cddd3b7c_6hours.png


----------



## [ShowMe!]

It looks like my 37.5 gallons of water stabilized at 16.5c / 61.7f !

Its supposed to be 100f here today, lets see what happens during the day, I really hope its not to bad.


http://cdn.overclock.net/d/dc/dcda30f4_8orso.png


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Test 1 2 3 4 5


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!]*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> This is a Trepanning Tool.
> 
> Its used in the cnc machining industry.
> 
> Its like an adjustable fly cutter.
> 
> They come in many different shapes and size ranges.
> 
> I took some pic's.
> 
> They are not like hole saws because they are really beefy, and use a carbide or high speed steel cutting edge, instead of metal.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting perfect circles in sheet metal like a computer case is very hard to do by hand with a hole saw.
> 
> Hole saws are designed to be used with soft materials like foam and wood.
> 
> This tool is designed for metal cutting, it allows you to set a diameter, and use a pilot hole, the cutting edge is very sharp and hard, making a nice clean cut in metals or other hard materials. .


Thanks much for the info. How much do these things cost? and in all honesty i have cut a hole in a metal side panel with a wooden hole saw before. lol.
I had an apex tx 381 case that needed more ventillation for the 6850, top mounted psu so at the time i had a few 80mm fans laying around, and i decised to make 2 more fan ports at the bottom, also modded a side window on and cut a hole in that to for another 80mm fan. thing was kinda loud at full fan speed.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Thanks much for the info. How much do these things cost? and in all honesty i have cut a hole in a metal side panel with a wooden hole saw before. lol.
> I had an apex tx 381 case that needed more ventillation for the 6850, top mounted psu so at the time i had a few 80mm fans laying around, and i decised to make 2 more fan ports at the bottom, also modded a side window on and cut a hole in that to for another 80mm fan. thing was kinda loud at full fan speed.


I am not sure what the cost is, but I think min about $150 because its a CNC TOOL.

I used a wood saw to cut holes in sheet metal too, and as a machinist, my job is to cut metal lol!

The sheet metal and aluminum that most computer cases are made out of is the cheapest metal they can find. Cheap metal tends to be soft a gummy, meaning it likes to deflect and bend instead of shearing/cutting.

When you use a hole saw, you are trying to cut soft metal with soft metal teeth, this basically creates rubbing instead of cutting action. Also a metal hole saw has many teeth, its works well with wood, but with harder materials like steel, its just to much tool engagement. This crates tool pressure, you dont want tool pressure, you want a sharp tool, that sheers the material.

This is when you cut hard materiel you want to use an even harder material. For example, high speed steel, to cut steel, or cintered carbide, to cut hardened steel, or diamond to cut super abrasive carbon fiber composites.

if you google metal hole saws you will see basically a hole cutter, but the cutting edges have bits of carbide cintered to the tips, they also have much less teeth.

some thing like this...


I hope this helps, you understand...


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!]*
> 
> I am not sure what the cost is, but I think min about $150 because its a CNC TOOL.
> 
> I used a wood saw to cut holes in sheet metal too, and as a machinist, my job is to cut metal lol!
> 
> The sheet metal and aluminum that most computer cases are made out of is the cheapest metal they can find. Cheap metal tends to be soft a gummy, meaning it likes to deflect and bend instead of shearing/cutting.
> 
> When you use a hole saw, you are trying to cut soft metal with soft metal teeth, this basically creates rubbing instead of cutting action. Also a metal hole saw has many teeth, its works well with wood, but with harder materials like steel, its just to much tool engagement. This crates tool pressure, you dont want tool pressure, you want a sharp tool, that sheers the material.
> 
> This is when you cut hard materiel you want to use an even harder material. For example, high speed steel, to cut steel, or cintered carbide, to cut hardened steel, or diamond to cut super abrasive carbon fiber composites.
> 
> if you google metal hole saws you will see basically a hole cutter, but the cutting edges have bits of carbide cintered to the tips, they also have much less teeth.
> 
> some thing like this...
> 
> 
> I hope this helps, you understand...


Yup, i get the concept completely. shame that adjustable tool is so much but cnc is some expencive work last i looked into it. Might have to invest in just a fixed size hole saw matched closely to a 120mm fan for future case mods. my friend has a TJ11 that he would like some ports cut into the side/back. kinda stupid how they have a $500 case only to have a solid piece not ventillated on the back end. I understand the top where the I/O is is ventillated but it would help if there was a space to mount a dual or triple 120mm rad.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Not a full 24 yet but you can see low temp of 16.5c / 61.7f and high temp of 22.25c / 72.05 f.

Its 100f out side right now.


http://cdn.overclock.net/b/b2/b2fb11af_12.jpeg


----------



## 0493mike

Thats pretty impressive. Sadly it would have a hard time where I live. To much humidity.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

http://cdn.overclock.net/f/f6/f693ce0f_24.jpeg


----------



## [ShowMe!]

false
http://cdn.overclock.net/d/d4/d4111844_1.jpeg


----------



## narrdarr

everything about this thread is so awesome. i learned so much.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

http://cdn.overclock.net/e/e7/e75bbd4b_16.5.jpeg

Well it looks like I have hit full circle, back to 16.5C!

I am hoping this will be good for overclocking.


----------



## Bold Eagle

You may want to consider a mesh like flyscreen over the water inlets to stop mossies or other critters getting in.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bold Eagle*
> 
> You may want to consider a mesh like flyscreen over the water inlets to stop mossies or other critters getting in.


Thx, good idea!!!


----------



## Bold Eagle

If your really happy with the process imagine making it as part of an Aquarium etc - high aeration of the water - maintained temp. environment, etc.


----------



## RnRollie

So, operating +/- 15 °C under ambient.. should give you a few hrs before you reach ambient

It should be possibelt o get more out of it... as said the closer to misting you get without going into atomising, the better the performance per cycle. May need to look into some specific nozzles
http://www.gardematic.com/sprinkler-systems/low-volume-sprays/foggers
http://www.sprayflo.com.au/nozzles/

note: getting to "real" misting/fogging requires some pump pressure/head








http://coldfog.com/fog-tech-center/how-cold-fog-works/


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bold Eagle*
> 
> If your really happy with the process imagine making it as part of an Aquarium etc - high aeration of the water - maintained temp. environment, etc.


That requires substantial "hulking out"... and who wants a (nuclear) Cooling Tower in their backyard?








Also, this consumes a fair amount of water... in order to make it economical you would need to be able to tap into a stream, river or lake.

For allround domestic use, a combination of of evaporative (swamp) cooling, geothermal and standard HVAC is the best & more economical solution.

However, for economical "small" scale (but bigger as this)... like keeping a +200 gallon reef tank steady or to cool (multiple) PCs there is a geothermal possibility. Providing you're not on bedrock, it can be done for a couple of bucks, not much more expensive as the bong, but a bit more labor intensive to install


----------



## [ShowMe!]

I have solar panels, and don't pay anything for electricity, or the solar panels, thank you gov.

I wonder if I have other options...

Huge water res + tec array?

What about a dual stage, cool the tec with bong, and cool a second res of water with tec, and make the tec hold a very steady temp via programmable controller.

What I want more is the temp to stay stable, so when I overclock my pc, and set everything up, I dont have to think about it any more, and have reliable performance.


----------



## RnRollie

TEC is a money sink... it gets out of hand very fast... I have a plan for TEC cooling, but as many people have pointed out, its easier to mod an A/C unit.







The main reason I would want to go TEC is silence.... but it comes with a few drawbacks....

And your bong cooler for the hot side is not gonna overcome them...









You have to consider a 1-to-3 rate: for every watt you want cool, you need to dissipate almost 3 watts. So, for a "simple" O/C CPU+GPU+GPU setup, say 500 Watts , you need to dissipate almost 1.5 Kw ..... that is A LOT to dissipate... but if done right, you can heat up the swimming pool









It all can be done.. but its not cheap - need dedicated PSUs (meanwell) for the TECs to start with; need to mill specific waterblocks, etc And an automated controller of the shelves which can handle more as one hi-end TEC is gonna set you back +$1000

Evap cooling is cheap with a lot of capacity, but of course it fluctuates with ambient ... as long as its capacity is bigger that the load you put in, there is no problem

If you want steady temps: the easiest is to fit a hose to the A/C unit and hook it up to a (big) box , and put your PC into that box.
Want something a bit more "cool" (as in "wow") for steady temps: geothermal

Or you can combine a number of things, operating sync or async , using a large thermal buffer or not.

Or take advantage of your environment/geography : Have a stream/river running through the backyard that never dries out? Or a (deep) pond/lake that never goes dry as its fed by (artesian) well? Sitting on top of a 100000 gallon rainwatertank? => Trow a big copper coil heat exchanger in the stream/pond/tank ... and you've got steady temps









But whatever you do.. there is this little pesky rule that says "Energy can be neither created nor destroyed" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_of_energy
A lot of (cooling/heating) systems derive from that law, like the 1st law of TD.
And while these laws can be used to our advantage... they sometimes need a big hammer and sometimes a gentle touch

The aforementioned 1500 Watts.. it's almost impossible to "get rid of them in one go" .... you have to scale up... dumping them into a large absorptive body like the swimming pool is the easiest way, after all its what most nuclear power plants do.. _(and the worst which can happen over time is that it turns into something to boil lobsters)_
But, It would actually be "less expensive" energy wise to drop a heat exchanger in the swimming pool (see pond above) and dump the 500 watts directly. Equally, you can try to dump the 1500 watts/m into an A/C system, but i doubt the A/C is rated for +300000 BTU/hr.

For "steady temps" cooling... there is geothermal... are you on bedrock?


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> are you on bedrock?


Hehehe this made my day!

I live in Rocklin, a town that used to be know for its rock mining... so yeah the earth here is solid rock ahhahahahhaha... they built a new wallmart here a few months ago, they had to use TNT!

RnRollie, I am glad I can bounce all of these ideas off you...

What do you think of building a dedicated custom chiller, or modding a good ac unit.

Would it be a reliable 24/7 with a good side reservoir and temp controller?


----------



## RnRollie

I dont mind the bounce.. i like it, i makes me revisit some of my older brainfarts









*A/C is not my forte* and here's why:
§ First: i currently live in a country where they dont believe in "cheap windows A/C units". Here you either go for those horrible 9000btu units on wheels or for the real deal split-unit installed by a certified hvac specialist ... very little diy possible. The _install-it-yourself-but-are-thus-not-covered-by-any-warranty-or-insurance-split-units_ aren't cheap either, they are starting at $2000 for small & noisy.
§ Second: because of the above, there is no self-filling if you (accidentally) emptied it. You would have to drag it to one of the specialists and they wont touch it with a long pole. Maybe if you pour a keg of beer into the guy first, then maybe... _but would you really want to have a drunk guy filling up your A/C ?_
§ Third: Window/Through-wall units and portable/wheeled units tend to be _"a bit noisy"_. You either have to build extreme sound proofing custom enclosures or turn them into split units. Because of that, if i would mod an A/C, i would start with a split-unit, that way most of the noise would be outside to begin with. But i'm reluctant to throw $2000 to $4000 into an experiment.
§ Fourth _(and most important probably)_ i lack the tools, workshop & experience to fiddle with A/C. Yes, i can do plumbing.. thats easy... but A/C is compressor specs, gasses, bore & bend... lots of theory to cram in my head without hands-on practice. So i'm reluctant on that also.

Modding an A/C for me would simply be: drill hole in wall, install split-unit, make (big) sealed, insulated enclosure/cabinet around _"the cool indoor end"_, put PC (except keyb/mouse/screen of course) into that "chill box" and see what happens









This does not mean i know nothing about A/C, just no hands-on experience. I've done a few "feasibility studies" on the above chill box idea.... and.... here's a problem to solve:

I rate my PC at (way) less a 1000Watts, but for sake of simplicity, assume produces a heatload of 1000 Watts : CPU, GPU's, PSU, VRM's, Harddrives, RAM, everything...

Now, 1000 Watts is ~3400BTU/hr ... easy enough, any A/C is rated way above 3500 BTU/hr.

However, since Watts does not have a time-unit, 1000 Watts can mean 1Kw/Hr, or 1Kw/min or 1Kw/sec or 1Kw/day.

If my PC produces a 1Kw/hour heatload.. then we're golden in the "chill box" , ...
But, if my PC produces a 1Kw/minute heatload.. then we're not so golden in the "chill box" , since that would be over 200 000 BTU/hr .. and THAT requires a mighty A/C... see also: _"why a mini fridge don't work"_









So, that the first question to solve.. Watts/Min or Watts/hr ?









Note: The reason why i would advocate a chillbox/cabinet for the whole PC and not a chilled water loop , is because it is waaay easier to do... you dont have to worry about condensation or make custom waterblocks or go overboard with insulation of hoses & reservoirs. A days work has your PC sitting in a chilled cabinet.

Yeah, its not "portable"... but almost none of my solutions are... my social life does NOT include lan parties









But, anyways, there are lotsa examples in the cooling experiments - including potential explosive ones (eg Technogiant), and also lotsa A/C conversions and the like.. what did you have in mind?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> I dont mind the bounce.. i like it, i makes me revisit some of my older brainfarts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *A/C is not my forte* and here's why:
> § First: i currently live in a country where they dont believe in "cheap windows A/C units". Here you either go for those horrible 9000btu units on wheels or for the real deal split-unit installed by a certified hvac specialist ... very little diy possible. The _install-it-yourself-but-are-thus-not-covered-by-any-warranty-or-insurance-split-units_ aren't cheap either, they are starting at $2000 for small & noisy.
> § Second: because of the above, there is no self-filling if you (accidentally) emptied it. You would have to drag it to one of the specialists and they wont touch it with a long pole. Maybe if you pour a keg of beer into the guy first, then maybe... _but would you really want to have a drunk guy filling up your A/C ?_
> § Third: Window/Through-wall units and portable/wheeled units tend to be _"a bit noisy"_. You either have to build extreme sound proofing custom enclosures or turn them into split units. Because of that, if i would mod an A/C, i would start with a split-unit, that way most of the noise would be outside to begin with. But i'm reluctant to throw $2000 to $4000 into an experiment.
> § Fourth _(and most important probably)_ i lack the tools, workshop & experience to fiddle with A/C. Yes, i can do plumbing.. thats easy... but A/C is compressor specs, gasses, bore & bend... lots of theory to cram in my head without hands-on practice. So i'm reluctant on that also.
> 
> Modding an A/C for me would simply be: drill hole in wall, install split-unit, make (big) sealed, insulated enclosure/cabinet around _"the cool indoor end"_, put PC (except keyb/mouse/screen of course) into that "chill box" and see what happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This does not mean i know nothing about A/C, just no hands-on experience. I've done a few "feasibility studies" on the above chill box idea.... and.... here's a problem to solve:
> 
> I rate my PC at (way) less a 1000Watts, but for sake of simplicity, assume produces a heatload of 1000 Watts : CPU, GPU's, PSU, VRM's, Harddrives, RAM, everything...
> 
> *Now, 1000 Watts is ~3400BTU/hr ... easy enough, any A/C is rated way above 3500 BTU/hr.
> 
> However, since Watts does not have a time-unit, 1000 Watts can mean 1Kw/Hr, or 1Kw/min or 1Kw/sec or 1Kw/day.
> 
> If my PC produces a 1Kw/hour heatload.. then we're golden in the "chill box" , ...*
> But, if my PC produces a 1Kw/minute heatload.. then we're not so golden in the "chill box" , since that would be over 200 000 BTU/hr .. and THAT requires a mighty A/C... see also: _"why a mini fridge don't work"_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, that the first question to solve.. Watts/Min or Watts/hr ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: The reason why i would advocate a chillbox/cabinet for the whole PC and not a chilled water loop , is because it is waaay easier to do... you dont have to worry about condensation or make custom waterblocks or go overboard with insulation of hoses & reservoirs. A days work has your PC sitting in a chilled cabinet.
> 
> Yeah, its not "portable"... but almost none of my solutions are... my social life does NOT include lan parties
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, anyways, there are lotsa examples in the cooling experiments - including potential explosive ones (eg Technogiant), and also lotsa A/C conversions and the like.. what did you have in mind?


Watts == joules per second

1000watts == 1000joules/s

So watts are in seconds, always.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> I dont mind the bounce.. i like it, i makes me revisit some of my older brainfarts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *A/C is not my forte* and here's why:
> § First: i currently live in a country where they dont believe in "cheap windows A/C units". Here you either go for those horrible 9000btu units on wheels or for the real deal split-unit installed by a certified hvac specialist ... very little diy possible. The _install-it-yourself-but-are-thus-not-covered-by-any-warranty-or-insurance-split-units_ aren't cheap either, they are starting at $2000 for small & noisy.
> § Second: because of the above, there is no self-filling if you (accidentally) emptied it. You would have to drag it to one of the specialists and they wont touch it with a long pole. Maybe if you pour a keg of beer into the guy first, then maybe... _but would you really want to have a drunk guy filling up your A/C ?_
> § Third: Window/Through-wall units and portable/wheeled units tend to be _"a bit noisy"_. You either have to build extreme sound proofing custom enclosures or turn them into split units. Because of that, if i would mod an A/C, i would start with a split-unit, that way most of the noise would be outside to begin with. But i'm reluctant to throw $2000 to $4000 into an experiment.
> § Fourth _(and most important probably)_ i lack the tools, workshop & experience to fiddle with A/C. Yes, i can do plumbing.. thats easy... but A/C is compressor specs, gasses, bore & bend... lots of theory to cram in my head without hands-on practice. So i'm reluctant on that also.
> 
> Modding an A/C for me would simply be: drill hole in wall, install split-unit, make (big) sealed, insulated enclosure/cabinet around _"the cool indoor end"_, put PC (except keyb/mouse/screen of course) into that "chill box" and see what happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This does not mean i know nothing about A/C, just no hands-on experience. I've done a few "feasibility studies" on the above chill box idea.... and.... here's a problem to solve:
> 
> I rate my PC at (way) less a 1000Watts, but for sake of simplicity, assume produces a heatload of 1000 Watts : CPU, GPU's, PSU, VRM's, Harddrives, RAM, everything...
> 
> *Now, 1000 Watts is ~3400BTU/hr ... easy enough, any A/C is rated way above 3500 BTU/hr.
> 
> However, since Watts does not have a time-unit, 1000 Watts can mean 1Kw/Hr, or 1Kw/min or 1Kw/sec or 1Kw/day.
> 
> If my PC produces a 1Kw/hour heatload.. then we're golden in the "chill box" , ...*
> But, if my PC produces a 1Kw/minute heatload.. then we're not so golden in the "chill box" , since that would be over 200 000 BTU/hr .. and THAT requires a mighty A/C... see also: _"why a mini fridge don't work"_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, that the first question to solve.. Watts/Min or Watts/hr ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: The reason why i would advocate a chillbox/cabinet for the whole PC and not a chilled water loop , is because it is waaay easier to do... you dont have to worry about condensation or make custom waterblocks or go overboard with insulation of hoses & reservoirs. A days work has your PC sitting in a chilled cabinet.
> 
> Yeah, its not "portable"... but almost none of my solutions are... my social life does NOT include lan parties
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, anyways, there are lotsa examples in the cooling experiments - including potential explosive ones (eg Technogiant), and also lotsa A/C conversions and the like.. what did you have in mind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watts == joules per second
> 
> 1000watts == 1000joules/s
> 
> So watts are in seconds, always.
Click to expand...

i know, and that is the problem with numbers, isn't it?









As that indicates that to completely nullify the 1kw PC output one would need an A/C that is rated for +12 million BTU/Hr...


----------



## [ShowMe!]

I have a new idea to test!

I am happy with the results of 16.5c to 22.5c, no load, outside.

However, I want to push this even more!

For the next test I will try this!

An indoor bong/volenti combo with venting to the outside!

I want even more stable temps and low noise.

I will create vertical rods inside the bong with material wrapped around them, and add venting to the outside.

The temperature in the house is controlled, and I think I can achieve an even more stable temp by venting outside.

Stay tuned for the next build!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> i know, and that is the problem with numbers, isn't it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As that indicates that to completely nullify the 1kw PC output one would need an A/C that is rated for +12 million BTU/Hr...


Where are you getting those numbers?
X== 0.00094781712087*y

Where:
x == BTU/s
y == watts

So if y == 1000 then x == 0.9478171208702988

If we have 0.9478171208702988 BTU/s then we have 56.869027252217928 BTU/m, and in extent 3412.14163513307568 BTU/H

(Aren't calculators great?)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!]*
> 
> I have a new idea to test!
> 
> I am happy with the results of 16.5c to 22.5c, no load, outside.
> 
> However, I want to push this even more!
> 
> For the next test I will try this!
> 
> An indoor bong/volenti combo with venting to the outside!
> 
> I want even more stable temps and low noise.
> 
> I will create vertical rods inside the bong with material wrapped around them, and add venting to the outside.
> 
> The temperature in the house is controlled, and I think I can achieve an even more stable temp by venting outside.
> 
> Stay tuned for the next build!


If that's your next step in this, then you may as well go the full circle. Strip the shower heads from the build, and plumb the pump directly into a copper rod. Drill holes in the copper rod to allow the water to pump out the rod, into the cloth or whatever you use for the volenti mesh. Copper tubing is cheap, and a drill bit will cut through it like butter so it shouldn't be too big of a project to use it in place of a shower head. Just my


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> If that's your next step in this, then you may as well go the full circle. Strip the shower heads from the build, and plumb the pump directly into a copper rod. Drill holes in the copper rod to allow the water to pump out the rod, into the cloth or whatever you use for the volenti mesh. Copper tubing is cheap, and a drill bit will cut through it like butter so it shouldn't be too big of a project to use it in place of a shower head. Just my


Hehehe!

I took a few hours this morning, and *ghetto-rigged* this little setup! I may have been working on it while your posted.

Anyway, this new setup is the most silent one so far.

I can hear a faint short burst of water tinkle. No more rain sound at all. The fans are now the main source of noise, and they are running on an over volted high amp power brick, my fan controller is still in the mail...

I really like the reduction in sound, I hope this test will show that this rig will stay stable 24/7.

Then I will do load testing, and then design that does not look so horrible.

I filled it up with some warm water from the shower...

Here is the graph for the first 10 min...

http://cdn.overclock.net/7/72/724a2e6c_10min.jpeg


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Wow!

This new bong slash volenti design must be more efficient, I am getting some impressive temperature pull down.

Here is the first hour.


http://cdn.overclock.net/7/7c/7c60fe27_wow.jpeg


----------



## Gilles3000

Very interesting, subbed.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> i know, and that is the problem with numbers, isn't it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As that indicates that to completely nullify the 1kw PC output one would need an A/C that is rated for +12 million BTU/Hr...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where are you getting those numbers?
> X== 0.00094781712087*y
> 
> Where:
> x == BTU/s
> y == watts
> 
> So if y == 1000 then x == 0.9478171208702988
> 
> If we have 0.9478171208702988 BTU/s then we have 56.869027252217928 BTU/m, and in extent 3412.14163513307568 BTU/H
> 
> (Aren't calculators great?)
Click to expand...



























x 60 x 60 = 3 600 000 j/hr

And then i converted to BTU .... using Watts to BTU iso Joules


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!]*
> 
> Wow!
> 
> This new bong slash volenti design must be more efficient, I am getting some impressive temperature pull down.
> 
> Here is the first hour.
> 
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/7/7c/7c60fe27_wow.jpeg











Course they are... they are much closer to "swamp" coolers.

Bongs are low efficiency unless you can get very close to drizzle/misting

But if you think what you've got is impressive... see shat happens if you use more surface

Somewhere in the old thread is a design with upright framed microfibre cloth in what is basically a laundry basket ... surface is everyting


----------



## [ShowMe!]

http://cdn.overclock.net/9/95/95484d95_down.jpeg


----------



## RnRollie

Volenti would be so proud of you









If i remember correctly, Volenti was the handle of an Aussie guy, and he became a legend overnight when he presented his contraption on Pro-Cooling back in 2002 or 2003.
Pro-cooling is a bit of a mausoleum now, but back then is where the smartest guys of our generation hung out. I think 3/4 of them were engineers. And if one of them would have been able to focus his mind on ONE thing (like world domination) for like longer as 10 minutes, the world would be a different place today









Anyway, volenti got quite a following on several board across the world... The volenti inspired Project Rainfall was one of the most interesting implementations in the recent years. And one of the most good looking will be a wooden one (if it ever gets finished)
(Its difficult to find pix that are 10 years old)

But one of the most "elegant" implementations -and not that long ago- was/is Sleeperman's PE tank : http://www.overclock.net/t/1315440/volenti-cooler-using-pe-tank/0_100

Might be worth trying something like it.. you've got two holes in the lid of the coleman already.. use one for air intake, and exhaust to the outside through the "stovepipe". Can even combine: have an upright part in the exhaust, and have a few stretched "towels" in the Coleman









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!]*
> 
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/9/95/95484d95_down.jpeg


I think this is about as deep as you can go ... unless you can get the RH% down.
Maybe you can run the intake air throuhg a dehumidifier before it goes into the your setup... although you've gotta ask at which point you're using more energy than as you would by making a cabinet around the A/C









Gotta run the numbers again ... assuming level air intake temp (from A/C room) , if you could reduce RH% to 10% , you ought to be able to shave another 4 °C off ( 6° if you could reduce to 1%RH)









But i think this is about as low as you can go... 14-15-16°C with no load... now its about size i guess... the more surface, the more capacity.

Need to test if this thing can keep a heatload under control. The easiest is to sink something like a 300/600 watts water heating element in the coleman
https://www.colemanair.us/vp_asp/scripts/shopexd.asp?id=662
http://www.amazon.com/Allied-Precision-Premier-742G-Bucket/dp/B000BDB4UG

 

keep trucking


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Volenti would be so proud of you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If i remember correctly, Volenti was the handle of an Aussie guy, and he became a legend overnight when he presented his contraption on Pro-Cooling back in 2002 or 2003.
> Pro-cooling is a bit of a mausoleum now, but back then is where the smartest guys of our generation hung out. I think 3/4 of them were engineers. And if one of them would have been able to focus his mind on ONE thing (like world domination) for like longer as 10 minutes, the world would be a different place today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, volenti got quite a following on several board across the world... The volenti inspired Project Rainfall was one of the most interesting implementations in the recent years. And one of the most good looking will be a wooden one (if it ever gets finished)
> (Its difficult to find pix that are 10 years old)
> 
> But one of the most "elegant" implementations -and not that long ago- was/is Sleeperman's PE tank : http://www.overclock.net/t/1315440/volenti-cooler-using-pe-tank/0_100
> 
> Might be worth trying something like it.. you've got two holes in the lid of the coleman already.. use one for air intake, and exhaust to the outside through the "stovepipe". Can even combine: have an upright part in the exhaust, and have a few stretched "towels" in the Coleman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think this is about as deep as you can go ... unless you can get the RH% down.
> *Maybe you can run the intake air throuhg a dehumidifier before it goes into the your setup... although you've gotta ask at which point you're using more energy than as you would by making a cabinet around the A/C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Gotta run the numbers again ... assuming level air intake temp (from A/C room) , if you could reduce RH% to 10% , you ought to be able to shave another 4 °C off ( 6° if you could reduce to 1%RH)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But i think this is about as low as you can go... 14-15-16°C with no load... now its about size i guess... the more surface, the more capacity.
> 
> Need to test if this thing can keep a heatload under control. The easiest is to sink something like a 300/600 watts water heating element in the coleman
> https://www.colemanair.us/vp_asp/scripts/shopexd.asp?id=662
> http://www.amazon.com/Allied-Precision-Premier-742G-Bucket/dp/B000BDB4UG
> 
> 
> 
> keep trucking


OP could go as far as throwing a really low powered AC unit on the intake. Since heat is being vented outside heat load on the evap will be entirely irrelevant. Tt wouldn't matter if he had a 2000BTU AC unit, since the air isn't being recycled. This would not only reduce relative humidity, but also lower the intake temp of the air. This would work both ends on reducing the dewpoint, reducing the dewpoint will make evap even chillier. And since the OP said he has solar panels the power draw won't be an issue, and he could just turn off the evap and only run the fan on the AC unit when he's not using his comp assuming he gets an AC unit that has that feature.

Just spitballing ideas at this point, don't mind me.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

So it looks like the temps are rock solid!

http://cdn.overclock.net/a/a7/a7f1ffe2_solid.jpeg

Basically maxing out at 16.5c in my 23c temp controlled house.

I ordered at 1100 watt heating element from eBay to for heat testing.


I have a new and hopefully final design in mind.

I want to abandon the bong design all together.

The new layout would look like this.

A 150qt Igloo Cooler.

One air intake with dust filter.

One air exhaust with single pipe routed to outside.

Fans moved to the outside with a fan box so I can have multiple fans in pull configuration, this will eliminate indoor fan noise.

Inside the 48 inch long cooler I will run pvc pipes just like you see in Sleepermans PE Tank Volenti design, and hang rows of Clorox handy-wipes that dip right in the water.

This willl fit right under my computer table, it will be practically silent, will give me about 30 gallons of 16c water, and no heat or humidity dump in to my room.

Then I will have a stable system to try out water cooling and overclocking my cpu and gpu.

SOME EPIC ART!


----------



## [ShowMe!]

So this morning, I did a quick ghetto rigged of what I am planning to do later on a larger scale.

Here are some pics, basically it works, and the only thing I can hear is small drone of the pump that is barely noticeable.

The fans are out side...









Works great, even better then the bong design I would say, 10C drop in 30 min

http://cdn.overclock.net/9/98/98a37f45_30min.png

.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Well that's it folks, all my test are done.

I will not post any heat test until I build the full size rig.

I want to spend some more time reading and picking the right parts.

When I start a new detailed build their, I will probably start a new thread, and post a link to it here.

Till later all!


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Nice job man, this is a project I'd like to get done too some day


----------



## rogergamer

any updates?


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

I'm in


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Hahahah!

I don't really have any updates.

It was a project I did to see the effectiveness of evaporation / evaporative cooling.

It works, and if you live in a dry hot climate, its an awesome self regulating solution...

Anyway, it does not exist anymore, as it was all just tests...

On the other hand, my custom chiller should be here any day, I will start a cool build log soon.

You will see it in the phase change / chillbox section.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx




----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*


less QQ more pew pew benching


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

I'm on it! Z170X OC Force arrives today


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxbassplayerxx*
> 
> I'm on it! Z170X OC Force arrives today


epiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiic


----------



## angel88888

Nice thread and job







.


----------



## obikenobi27

Congrats... LTT decided to showcase your experiment.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

LTT Just Necro'd this thread. Surprised he didn't swing by yet to thank you for your guide.


----------



## Schmuckley

LTT..deez.
I would definitely copy the OP's design..I may when my rig fails








It hasn't yet..and running cpu + gpu with 6-11c below ambient res water.
A filter on house intake would be good..may cut down on the vinegar and clr needings.
You need to put bleach in a bong if you run one.







LTT called out TTL on this vid







He admits it's a serious troll..


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## IOERSdj

Quick question has anyone built one before with a intake filter against dust and particulate and a UV or other water filter for getting rid of bacteria. And if so which is the best. Also whats the best way to reduce noise coming from the falling water while not decreasing cooling performance by too much. I'm planning on building my first rig when zen comes out!


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## Schmuckley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IOERSdj*
> 
> Quick question has anyone built one before with a intake filter against dust and particulate and a UV or other water filter for getting rid of bacteria. And if so which is the best. Also whats the best way to reduce noise coming from the falling water while not decreasing cooling performance by too much. I'm planning on building my first rig when zen comes out!


Best way to reduce noise= 1 of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3pc-Assorted-Size-STAINLESS-STEEL-MESH-STRAINER-Shower-Tub-Kitchen-Bathroom-SINK-/231322182561?hash=item35dbe063a1:g:y1cAAOSwEK9UENp1 Cut from the thick metal rim and invert it halfway between the intake and exhaust.

As for bacteria:I use bleach.

Dust,eh...you gotta change out the water every couple months anyways.


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## IOERSdj

Yeah but I don't want to use bleach because I want to have this indoors and I don't think inhaling bleach 24/7 is a good idea


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## OCAddict

Thanks


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