# Optimus Waterblock



## Section31

I am wondering if anyone has experiences with Optimus CPU Waterblocks. I just ordered one of there AM4 blocks out. There aren't many reviews out there except the hardocp one (using the intel v1 block) and they had some very good results.


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## Fluxmaven

I hadn't heard of them until a week ago when they posted their new product line on Reddit. Their Foundation Ryzen block definitely has my attention, but I'm not sure if it would be enough better than my currently owned blocks to justify buying. 

Definitely curious to see some reviews on the Ryzen block since it's supposedly optimized for the chiplet layout.


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## Section31

I guess i will be doing some testing. Whether to use the heatkiller or optimus block.


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## andrewmp6

I never heard of them,But the block design looks good enough to me to run,I do love how basic their fittings and pump/res looks.Some of us like the bare basic simple design to things like that.


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## ciarlatano

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...lock-review-infomation.html?highlight=Optimus


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## cluster edge

Also interesting in Foundation Ryzen block review


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## ryan92084

Ah, they are still alive. They didn't even have an AMD block when I went looking for my build so I assumed they went defunct.


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## Miiksu

Duh, I just ordered Anfi-Tec Drei. It's not perfect (nearly) but should also cool the new Ryzen well. I do have not yet 3K series Ryzen. I talked with Martin Beck and he said improvement could be only 1°C or less. I could do also some mini review when I get that 3950X...


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## Section31

Thanks for the information. I still want to do some test. If the performance is not much difference, I am going to use either the Black Nickel CPU IV block as i think full metal blocks looks the best, in particular the black nickel. We have not seen many improvement in water blocks and radiators for long time.


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## Master Chicken

It looks like their new Foundation blocks have abandoned the idea of the occasional thick fin for o-ring support. They do look good though.


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## Section31

I just got the block.


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## Miiksu

Section31 said:


> I just got the block.


that was fast. My is still coming. It may take a while.


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## Section31

More block comparison


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## Section31

The top is modular. Very much appreciated.


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## Miiksu

Finally I got mine. That was quite expensive for a block. Total cost was 165$ (150â‚¬). I ordered the cheapest one the black model. The Anfi-Tec Drei block is still in the delivery. I still not have the new Ryzen 3950X CPU. It was delayed to november. I can still compare those blocks to 2700X and later to the 3000 series.


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## crerc

I received my AM4 plexi block and put it on over the weekend. Previously, I had the Bykski AM4 TR4 block on a 3900X.
Comparing the temps at load with the same settings, I'm noticing a 5C improvement.

- PBO on, P95 small FFT
Bkyski - 97C
Optimus - 92C

- Gaming (Civ 6)
Bykski - 70C
Optimus - 62C

NOTE: I have it installed in the default orientation it came in (ie. inlet at bottom, outlet at top). Not sure if this is the optimal orientation?


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## Miiksu

crerc said:


> I received my AM4 plexi block and put it on over the weekend. Previously, I had the Bykski AM4 TR4 block on a 3900X.
> Comparing the temps at load with the same settings, I'm noticing a 5C improvement.
> 
> - PBO on, P95 small FFT
> Bkyski - 97C
> Optimus - 92C
> 
> - Gaming (Civ 6)
> Bykski - 70C
> Optimus - 62C
> 
> NOTE: I have it installed in the default orientation it came in (ie. inlet at bottom, outlet at top). Not sure if this is the optimal orientation?


Bykski is not the best CPU block but still quite impressive. And I just ordered for my setup a Bykski GPU block for Radeon 5700XT :d Because I did not want EKWB and not Alphacool. Seems I can do comparison with: Anfi-Tech Drei, Optimus Foundation and old Aqua Computer Derlin.


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## Section31

Miiksu said:


> Bykski is not the best CPU block but still quite impressive. And I just ordered for my setup a Bykski GPU block for Radeon 5700XT :d Because I did not want EKWB and not Alphacool. Seems I can do comparison with: Anti-Tech Drei, Optimus Foundation and old Aqua Computer Derlin.


That is about right. The Bykski and Heatkiller are about 2 degree apart themselves. So 5 degrees difference would be correct.


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## Section31

I am curious if anyone bought optimus GPU waterblock. I want to see how it performs so i can determine the direction for the 3080TI.


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## Miiksu

I have now both CPU block. Optimus is so nicely finished. But also Anfi-Tec Drei looks promising even the heat plate is thinner than Optimus block. I can't wait to test the performance of them. Anfi-Tec Drei came in the sealed can and I had to open it up /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


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## Section31

Looking forward to seeing your results. This will provide alternatives to the other players out there. If anyone get there GPU Block, please share your results. Will help others when it comes time to buying water blocks for next generation GPU.


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## Miiksu

Section31 said:


> Looking forward to seeing your results. This will provide alternatives to the other players out there. If anyone get there GPU Block, please share your results. Will help others when it comes time to buying water blocks for next generation GPU.


Anfi-tec Drei is <1.5Â°C off from top best blocks. Interesting to see results. Aand I fixed all the typos. I'm typo generator. I was spelling it "Anti" it's "Anfi". There is also room for mods. Anfi-tec Drei has a removable jet plate.


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## lb_felipe

With what drain ball valve, flow meter, temperature sensor and hose should I go in order to maintain this philosophy?



Optimus PC said:


> PLASTICIZER-FREE EPDM O-RINGS
> O-rings seem like a small detail, but are critically important for PC loops. We only use *US-made EPDM o-rings with zero plasticizer added*. EPDM is the industry standard, and the most bulletproof PC tubing is matte black EPDM. Plasticizer was common in clear tubing to make it flexible, but disintegrates and turns into loop gunk. In the last few years, tubing manufacturers have worked to eliminate plasticizers in tubes, but plasticizers can still be found in o-rings. Common o-ring materials like nitrile (aka buna-n and NBR) and viton can contain plasticizers. And often need lubricating oil to fit correctly into blocks, a major source of fluid gunk buildup. You'll notice this oil leaching in GPUs. Moreover, parts with no-name o-rings in funky colors are seriously problematic. Colored silicone o-rings, moreover, are very fragile. Using pure EPDM is more difficult requiring the parts to have higher accuracy, but the benefits are loops free from contaminants.





Optimus PC said:


> BANISHING FLAKY ELECTROPLATED NICKEL
> Flaking, disintegrating nickel is a widespread problem in liquid cooling. After all, nickel PC fittings and blocks prohibit use with plain water, or you void the warranty. Instead, you must use anti-corrosive fluids to protect nickel components Why? Because the industry standard electroplated (aka electrolytic) nickel is a cosmetic nickel finish that isn't meant to be used in liquid applications. Often called chrome or shiny nickel, electroplated nickel is cost effective and looks good.
> 
> Unfortunately, water, anti-fungals and fancy fluids, including opaques, will rapidly strip electroplated nickel. The gunk that will appear in block fins isn't just broken down fluid, it's often disintegrated nickel, paint and cheap plastics. If this seems crazy, it is. After all, the cheapest home faucet can handle tap water, so why can’t expensive PC fittings survive basic H2O?
> 
> Alas, eletroplated nickel is the PC industry standard. What's the solution?





Optimus PC said:


> PRO-XE ELECTROLESS NICKEL
> Optimus parts are finished with only industrial-grade extreme corrosion resistant nickel, called PRO-XE electroless nickel.Electroless is an aerospace industry finish with extreme chemical resistance, hardness and superior fluid lubricity. So why isn't everyone using electroless? Cost and appearance. Electroless is far more difficult to manufacture, especially when achieving perfect finishes needed for premium PC builds. And electroless can't achieve that easy chrome look of electroplating, which is why electroplating is the industry standard, even if it shouldn't be used.





Optimus PC said:


> SAFE FOR H2O
> Aside from reliability, electroless nickel is able to withstand saltwater, corrosive chemicals and, yes, even plain water.With Optimus, you can use distilled water without fear of flaking. Distilled, aside from being cheap, is also the highest performance coolant readily available. Anti-corrosive additives lower the thermal conductivity of the liquid.That's why we can offer a 10 year warranty, even with regular H2O. It has been a herculean task to create Optimus's electroless products, but the results look great and are nearly indestructible.


I'm really excited to be able to use pure water in my loop.

Sadly, Optimus PC yet have no realeased ita complete portfolio like radiators (see its Twitter page) and the above mentioned items. I have therefore tried to make a list that closely matches the philosophy cited (note for Bitspower true brass). Chose parts without nickel, chome or/and e-plated finish. By beign black, I believe o-rings on Bitspower's are EPDM, no? Following is the list:



Code:


01 x LIAN LI PC-O11
01 x LIAN LI PW-IC01NH45
01 x Seasonic PRIME TX-1000
01 x Optimus Foundation CPU Block - AMD
01 x EVGA Hydro Copper Waterblock for EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti K|NGP|N
01 x Optimus Absolute D5 Reservoir System
01 x Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 360 MP
01 x Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 240 MP
05 x Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM
14 x Optimus Flex Compression Fitting
01 x Aqua Computer Flow sensor high flow USB
02 x Bitspower G1/4" True Brass Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
01 x Bitspower True Brass Mini Valve With Black Handle
14 x Optimus G 1/4" Plug
01 x Watercool EPDM Tubing ID 3/8" - 5/8" OD (16/10mm) black matte
05 x Mayhems X1 Clear 1 Ltr Premixed V2
01 x Mayhems Blitz Kit
01 x Thermalright TFX Thermal Paste 6.2g


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## Section31

It's nice to see some new companies out there. Will be following Optimus going forward. Who knows in couple years with my next complete rebuild, I might go all optimus cooling.


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## lb_felipe

Section31 said:


> It's nice to see some new companies out there. Will be following Optimus going forward. Who knows in couple years with my next complete rebuild, I might go all optimus cooling.


Yes, fellow. I want to know what radiators, flow meters, temperature sensors, GPU blocks, tubing etc match wit its products, banishing flacky eplated, chrome, plasticizers etc. They state 10y warranty with just H2O (distilled water). I'd love to follow this route. Does those Bitspower True Brass parts match out? The hose I guess is suitable (EPDM). The rad too because it is pure copper I guess. I will use the plugs (stop fittings) by them because those parts are PRO-XE nickel plated (its solution for flacking) and use EDPM o-rings. They ar expensive though. Please, help me.


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## Miiksu

Hmm. I just checked this is toolless installation and only three parts for each hole. No backplate, no washers, no springs. I'm bit scared to install this. Hope it works. Anfi-tec Drei has more parts but it looked a bit more professional approach. Maybe this is so perfectly engineered and machinered that everything fits perfectly. I try to get today some results. It's slow to change a block because I have two pumps and also 5700XT in same loop.


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## czin125

" Thanks and for sure! Threadripper 3 will need some serious cooling for those extra hot, extra dense dies. The older designs out there prob won't be able to handle it. We're going to use a new version of our cold plate with the 0.1mm micro fins. The surface area of our cold plate will be be gigantic. Plus a whole new flow path to match the new die layout of Threadripper 3. We're excited  "

The V1s were 0.127mm iirc.


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## Miiksu

Finally I got tested them all. I got some interesting results. I did RealBench stress test 15 min. CPU only. I was hoping a bit better results. System specs: AMD Ryzen 2700X (stock), Radeon 5700XT (stock), Alphacool 360LT+240LT and two China 12V pump on parellel. I think it may be the mounting pressure was not enough. I did not like installation. Its rough and lacks backplate, washers and springs. I'll do the test again later is there is thermal paste problem. Anfi-tec Drei offer superior performance and it was only 90€ the Optimus block was a whopping 150€. 

This is what I got:
Aqua Computer Delrin 45.1°C
Optimus Foundation 41°C
Anfi-tec Drei 35.9°C


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## Section31

Thanks for update, Interesting results I shpuld know mine in couple weeks once case is painted and i move over my rig.

The mounting for am4 is all like that. Even the heatkiller am4 doesn’t use the backplate.


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## Miiksu

Section31 said:


> Thanks for update, Interesting results I shpuld know mine in couple weeks once case is painted and i move over my rig.
> 
> The mounting for am4 is all like that. Even the heatkiller am4 doesn’t use the backplate.


It helps with the even pressure. I'm not ever been fan of non strengthened holding. Still I was not expecting more than 2-3°C differences.


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## Cloudforever

Section31 said:


> I am wondering if anyone has experiences with Optimus CPU Waterblocks. I just ordered one of there AM4 blocks out. There aren't many reviews out there except the hardocp one (using the intel v1 block) and they had some very good results.


great news!

i'm glad to see this type of post. I am a proud owner of one as well, the V1 series.

It's been running on water for about over 2 years now (still havent cleaned it out ) and it's been running 100% amazing.

no gunk in the lines or anything, been running super smooth and cold. I still need to open it up and check the results!


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## Balsagna

Is anything purchaseable yet?

I just posted in the watercooling thread asking for assistance on a new loop for my case. I’d be willing to pick up the Optimus block for my 3900x and post the results.

If any of you fill like chiming in on the thread (just look for my name) and post what I should purchase, I’d be happy to do so. 

It sounds very interesting


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## Fluxmaven

Balsagna said:


> Is anything purchaseable yet?


The CPU blocks are available on their site https://optimuspc.com/

GPU blocks still say "coming soon" 

If I didn't already have a bunch of blocks, I would definitely be buying their foundation AMD block. I might still get one anyway lol.


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## Miiksu

I need to redo the tests when I get the 3950X but does not look promising. I did today morning the RealBench again and exactly same temps than yesterday. Atleast air bubbles did not cause the performance loss. I'll change to the Anfi-tec Drei because it was much better for atleast 2700X.


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## Section31

I guess that means the cheap cpu block beats the aquacomputer in am4 lol


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## Miiksu

Section31 said:


> I guess that means the cheap cpu block beats the aquacomputer in am4 lol


Yeah. They are approx same price if you are outside EU. There is two good think with the Anfi-tec Drei block. Water restriction is very low and performance is very good. It wont restrict the system flow. Need further testing with more complex loops. High flow eliminates the peak temperatures. I was seeing 4°C peak temps with Optimus and Aqua Computer block and that can cause instability or performance loss.


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## lb_felipe

Miiksu said:


> Yeah. They are approx same price if you are outside EU. There is two good think with the Anfi-tec Drei block. Water restriction is very low and performance is very good. It wont restrict the system flow. Need further testing with more complex loops. High flow eliminates the peak temperatures. I was seeing 4°C peak temps with Optimus and Aqua Computer block and that can cause instability or performance loss.


How about Ryzen 3000 (Zen 2) with its chiplets arrangement? Might Anfi-tec Drei perform as well, or Optimus Foundation AMD takes the edge?


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## Miiksu

lb_felipe said:


> Miiksu said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah. They are approx same price if you are outside EU. There is two good think with the Anfi-tec Drei block. Water restriction is very low and performance is very good. It wont restrict the system flow. Need further testing with more complex loops. High flow eliminates the peak temperatures. I was seeing 4Â°C peak temps with Optimus and Aqua Computer block and that can cause instability or performance loss.
> 
> 
> 
> How about Ryzen 3000 (Zen 2) with its chiplets arrangement? Might Anfi-tec Drei perform as well, or Optimus Foundation AMD takes the edge?
Click to expand...

You need to wait until I get the 3950x model. Also micro fins are too thin on Optimus. Heat will not transfer effectively to water.

Anfi-tec Drei flow pattern and simulations: https://translate.google.fi/transla...ps://www.tweakpc.de/forum/826715-post125.html


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## Section31

Tell us the result. I am couple weeks from doing mine. I could actually test it now but i am not sure its worth it do drain loop, refill it for the purpose of testing when I am going to do an move to new case in two-three weeks.


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## Kokin

Miiksu said:


> Finally I got tested them all. I got some interesting results. I did RealBench stress test 15 min. CPU only. I was hoping a bit better results. System specs: AMD Ryzen 2700X (stock), Radeon 5700XT (stock), Alphacool 360LT+240LT and two China 12V pump on parellel. I think it may be the mounting pressure was not enough. I did not like installation. Its rough and lacks backplate, washers and springs. I'll do the test again later is there is thermal paste problem. Anfi-tec Drei offer superior performance and it was only 90€ the Optimus block was a whopping 150€.
> 
> This is what I got:
> Aqua Computer Delrin 45.1°C
> Optimus Foundation 41°C
> Anfi-tec Drei 35.9°C


Those are some interesting results. I have a 3900X and swapped my EK Supremacy EVO from Intel to AM4 mounting which still retains a good mounting system (AM4 backplate, gasket, washers, springs). Loop is almost complete, I just need to cut up some tubing and do cable management. If I remember, I'll post my results here.


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## Miiksu

Kokin said:


> Those are some interesting results. I have a 3900X and swapped my EK Supremacy EVO from Intel to AM4 mounting which still retains a good mounting system (AM4 backplate, gasket, washers, springs). Loop is almost complete, I just need to cut up some tubing and do cable management. If I remember, I'll post my results here.


The peak temps was the biggest difference. If they did not peak that high or the Anfi-tec drei peak same as those other two then diffrence could be alot smaller. I did not get get the high peak temps with Anfi-tec Drei. Anf-tec Drei avg temp was something 58°C and 'peaked' to 60°C. But maybe I should have done the test like ten times and check the avg peak temps. I know I rushed a bit and did the test only twice and let system cool few minutes before the next. 

So you have Optimus block too?


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## Section31

I have done my testing. Tale of two stories. It performs amazing on 3700x but on 3900X plus, i won't use it. I tried in both orientation and the results aren't pretty on the 3900X. 

3900X: Heatkiller was 70degrees or so on Cinebench
Optimus was 90degree on cinebench (wouldn't pass)

3700X: Optimus was 60degree on cinebench.
Noctua U12A (similar to 360mm AIO) was 66degrees on cinebench
Heatkiller result to come

However, I am going to use heatkiller for both rigs long term. I suspect it was not designed for 3900X Chiplets.


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## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> I have done my testing. Tale of two stories. It performs amazing on 3700x but on 3900X plus, i won't use it. I tried in both orientation and the results aren't pretty on the 3900X.
> 
> 3900X: Heatkiller was 70degrees or so on Cinebench
> Optimus was 90degree on cinebench (wouldn't pass)
> 
> 3700X: Optimus was 60degree on cinebench.
> Noctua U12A (similar to 360mm AIO) was 66degrees on cinebench
> Heatkiller result to come
> 
> However, I am going to use heatkiller for both rigs long term. I suspect it was not designed for 3900X Chiplets.



Hey there, something is definitely wrong somewhere. There's no way our block wouldn't pass, we did our testing on the 3900x and we know it performs the best out there by at least a few degrees. 

For reference, here's an Intel benchmark of the same block design vs HK: 




Is the 3900x lapped by chance? Anything unusual with the build? And can you let us know the number of radiators, your pump flow, etc.


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## Optimus WC

Miiksu said:


> You need to wait until I get the 3950x model. Also micro fins are too thin on Optimus. Heat will not transfer effectively to water.
> 
> Anfi-tec Drei flow pattern and simulations: https://translate.google.fi/transla...ps://www.tweakpc.de/forum/826715-post125.html


Hey Miiksu, 

Regarding microfins, our research shows more surface area is better for thermal performance. We found thicker fins don't transfer heat better, otherwise old blocks with massive channels would be the best. SO having ultra thin fins increases surface area, copper is the best conductor of heat, far outstripping the water flowing through it. So the more copper surface area is directly related to the cold plate's dissipation abilities. Is there some research you're looking at? 

If you take a look at Performance PCs stream above, we're 6.5c better than the next best block. And earlier in the stream he tested our flow rate and we were 13% better. 

The Drei is interesting tech, but the results here are very unusual. Can you post screenshots of benchmarks and more info about the test setup? Thanks!


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## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have done my testing. Tale of two stories. It performs amazing on 3700x but on 3900X plus, i won't use it. I tried in both orientation and the results aren't pretty on the 3900X.
> 
> 3900X: Heatkiller was 70degrees or so on Cinebench
> Optimus was 90degree on cinebench (wouldn't pass)
> 
> 3700X: Optimus was 60degree on cinebench.
> Noctua U12A (similar to 360mm AIO) was 66degrees on cinebench
> Heatkiller result to come
> 
> However, I am going to use heatkiller for both rigs long term. I suspect it was not designed for 3900X Chiplets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey there, something is definitely wrong somewhere. There's no way our block wouldn't pass, we did our testing on the 3900x and we know it performs the best out there by at least a few degrees.
> 
> For reference, here's an Intel benchmark of the same block design vs HK:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the 3900x lapped by chance? Anything unusual with the build? And can you let us know the number of radiators, your pump flow, etc.
Click to expand...

There always chance my case is an outlier.
When there are more results, you will get clearer picture. I am not a professional tester so my results aren’t really scientific. 

That being said its nice to see more players in the industry and still am interested in your products. I am interested in your hard tube fittings if they really do better job than bitspower ones i have.

I think my case is just odd but its just too much risk and costs changing the block back and forth. Burned through an bottle of mayhem uv-pink and two noctua thermalpaste tubes almost at this point. That and i am risking damaging my CPU everytime i change waterblock. The socket lock is not that great so its easy to pull it off when i take the cpu waterblock. 

The only way i could do further tests is if i could get my hands on another 3900x and do testing on it on my caselabs build. Its better suited for testing purposes. Its little too much risk doing on the brass tubed lianli pc-011xl build. 

Setup is dual hwl 360gtr , d5 next, and cpu has not been lapped. Flow rate is 4l/min. Probably slightly higher for the cpu since my flow meter is on the gpu and using koolance quick disconnects. You can see my build in my posts on heatkiller forum.


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## Section31

Also thank you optimus for your excellent support so far. Its hard for small companies in watercooling to respond fast. I wish you guys well.


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## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> There always chance my case is an outlier.
> When there are more results, you will get clearer picture. I am not a professional tester so my results aren’t really scientific.
> 
> That being said its nice to see more players in the industry and still am interested in your products. I am interested in your hard tube fittings if they really do better job than bitspower ones i have.
> 
> I think my case is just odd but its just too much risk and costs changing the block back and forth. Burned through an bottle of mayhem uv-pink and two noctua thermalpaste tubes almost at this point. That and i am risking damaging my CPU everytime i change waterblock. The socket lock is not that great so its easy to pull it off when i take the cpu waterblock.
> 
> The only way i could do further tests is if i could get my hands on another 3900x and do testing on it on my caselabs build. Its better suited for testing purposes. Its little too much risk doing on the brass tubed lianli pc-011xl build.
> 
> Setup is dual hwl 360gtr , d5 next, and cpu has not been lapped. Flow rate is 4l/min. Probably slightly higher for the cpu since my flow meter is on the gpu and using koolance quick disconnects. You can see my build in my posts on heatkiller forum.



Yeah doing swaps is annoying for sure! We're positive something is wrong somewhere. We'd be super frustrated if we bought this block with high hopes only to get craziness  

So we just retested the 3900x today on an X570 Strix board with two different water temps to make sure we're covering the range of use cases. Our test system is extremely accurate because it's all temperature controlled for repeated measurements. Though your system looks sweet so I imagine you'd be on the lower end of water temps. Here are our numbers:

*STOCK 3900x SETTINGS:* *60.8c DIE TEMP* (with 25c water temp)

*STOCK:* 66.8c DIE TEMP (with 31.2c water temp)

*OC 4.525GHz: *74c DIE TEMP (with 25c water temp)

The absolute highest temps we could ever get was 84c by pushing 206w at 1.475v into the 3900x. 

And these numbers were in both Cinebench and Prime95. 

Our head mad genius engineer thinks the only way you'd ever see anything like 90c and a failure is something is wrong somewhere. Here are some thoughts though I'm sure you're not having these issues 

-Lapped block or bare die
-Some obstruction in the block
-No thermal paste or bad paste
-Cold plate installed 90 degrees (so no flow)
-Sticker still on cold plate

Can you look inside the block and see if the fins are the right way like in the picture attached? They may have gotten turned 90 degrees. If you can send us a picture of your block, that'd be awesome!

And don't supposed you live in Chicago or LA? We'll come and check out your rig, wanna make sure you're getting the best out of our block!


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## Kashtan

I believe that the best way to dispel any doubts about the performance of a water block would be to send the most experienced professionals for testing.
Such as techpowerup, xtremerigs, thermalbench, computerbase, hardwareluxx.


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## Optimus WC

Kashtan said:


> I believe that the best way to dispel any doubts about the performance of a water block would be to send the most experienced professionals for testing.
> Such as techpowerup, xtremerigs, thermalbench, computerbase, hardwareluxx.


Hey Kashtan, definitely! We're currently busy with all the recent orders and haven't had time to reach out to reviewers. But we'll be hitting them up very soon.


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## Section31

Professional tests are better. Ok i tried the test again but looks like my cpu died. I have debugging to do see what needs replacing.

Update: Good thing I had my friend Ryzen 3600 build in my house (helping him build it). Very much looking like the 3900X was the source of the issues. I suspect something happened during the changing of the block. The various ryzen builds have one issue i found, the CPU socket is not secure. If you tighten too much the block(even air cooler) the cpu comes out with it. 

I will have to use my friend CPU for now but going to order in the 3950X (wait list).


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## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> Professional tests are better. Ok i tried the test again but looks like my cpu died. I have debugging to do see what needs replacing.
> 
> Update: Good thing I had my friend Ryzen 3600 build in my house (helping him build it). Very much looking like the 3900X was the source of the issues. I suspect something happened during the changing of the block. The various ryzen builds have one issue i found, the CPU socket is not secure. If you tighten too much the block(even air cooler) the cpu comes out with it.
> 
> I will have to use my friend CPU for now but going to order in the 3950X (wait list).


Oh no! That's terrible, AMD's mounting and pin design is really mediocre, which is why they changed it for Threadripper (which is the best). That explains the performance issues! We designed our AMD block to deal with the suction issue as much as possible, but AMD really needs to step up here. Try to warranty that CPU, putting it in a motherboard shouldn't cause it to fail.


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## keeph8n

Don't currently have any of the new AM4 on hand to test, but more than happy to test X299 10 series as I have a 10 core and 18 core here atm, and also have a 3970X. 



Would be direct comparisons against the Heatkiller variants.


I know we have talked before on Twitter on Discord, just putting it out there for others to see that if/when I can, I will test against the current champ


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## Optimus WC

keeph8n said:


> Don't currently have any of the new AM4 on hand to test, but more than happy to test X299 10 series as I have a 10 core and 18 core here atm, and also have a 3970X.
> 
> 
> 
> Would be direct comparisons against the Heatkiller variants.
> 
> 
> I know we have talked before on Twitter on Discord, just putting it out there for others to see that if/when I can, I will test against the current champ


Right on! We're a little away from Threadripper release, though we have a bunch more info here on our preorder page. Our surface area example attached is vs the current leader out there  When we do release the block (hopefully mid-late dec) we'll definitely want some comparisons!

https://optimuspc.com/products/absolute-cpu-block-threadripper-3

Also, here's the benchmark of how we do vs HK by PPCs, which matches our other benchmarks for other CPUs:


----------



## Section31

I can confirm for the 3700X, the test results show that the optimus block cools four degrees cooler than the heatkiller. Whenever that 3950X i will redo the tests.

That being said, I will redo the 3950X tests using my caselabs s8 instead. There are lot less risks considering its CPU block is connected via quick disconnects and the horizontal nature of the case minimizes the risk of any accidental damage occuring. 

What i was concerned about when pulling out the cpu block too much was confirmed. There are bent pins on the CPU(damn difficult to see) as i needed strong white light and another cpu beside it to see it.


----------



## Optimus WC

Quote: "I can confirm for the 3700X, the test results show that the *optimus block cools four degrees cooler than the heatkiller.*"

Those numbers sound right :thumb: Thanks for checking!


----------



## TK421

Optimus WC said:


> Quote: "I can confirm for the 3700X, the test results show that the *optimus block cools four degrees cooler than the heatkiller.*"
> 
> Those numbers sound right :thumb: Thanks for checking!


what's the joke about you guys being connected to NASA?


----------



## Optimus WC

TK421 said:


> what's the joke about you guys being connected to NASA?



Responded on Discord  

And not really a joke so much as our history involves making parts for the original NASA Lunar Roving Vehicle. The joke is we started NASA. We didn't...or did we??

Our history:

https://optimuspc.com/pages/company


----------



## Krisztias

Hy Optimus!

Do you plan to release the Signature V2 CPU Block for AMD too?
When will we able to buy Optimus Products in Europe without the horrible shipping costs?
Thank you!


----------



## Section31

Managed to get an 3900X from newegg so can resume testing. However, its going to be on my caselabs than my other build. That is going to be a one shot, i can't risk another dead 3900X. 

Whoever up for challenge of restoring an 3900X can try though. I'm pretty sure its dead. Two Motherboards won't power on (I know they work as I have tested an 3600 on them) and the other gets stuck on bios (it works fine on the 3700x)


----------



## Optimus WC

Krisztias said:


> Hy Optimus!
> 
> Do you plan to release the Signature V2 CPU Block for AMD too?
> When will we able to buy Optimus Products in Europe without the horrible shipping costs?
> Thank you!


Yes, we plan on doing an AMD Signature block, though it prob won't be until we finish up the other products we're making right now (threadripper, GPUs, fittings)

And, for sure! We'll be setting up distribution in EU so you won't get slammed with customs and shipping


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, we plan on doing an AMD Signature block, though it prob won't be until we finish up the other products we're making right now (threadripper, GPUs, fittings)
> 
> And, for sure! We'll be setting up distribution in EU so you won't get slammed with customs and shipping


I am curious, when will the 12mm hard fitting be available. Your 1/2 ones look interesting and I really am looking for alternatives to the bitspower 12mm fittings as i find the bp fittings dont really hold in there own tubing that well.


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> I am curious, when will the 12mm hard fitting be available. Your 1/2 ones look interesting and I really am looking for alternatives to the bitspower 12mm fittings as i find the bp fittings dont really hold in there own tubing that well.


Definitely know what you mean about hardline fittings not working well. We spent a ton of time on our gasket fittings and they are crazy strong. As for timing, we're going into production on the 2080Ti block right now, Threadripper next week then fittings after that. Then it should be a week or two until they ship. So towards the end of this month we are aiming to have the 12mm and 16mm hardlines available, then 14mm after that. Then 90s, 45s, rotaries and more


----------



## Diffident

I don't know how, but I've never heard of Optimus until today. If AMD can make enough Threadrippers that it stays in stock for more than 2 minutes, I gotta get that Optimus Threadripper block.


----------



## Shawnb99

So how would the Signature V2 Bare Die Special Edition compare against the Heatkiller IV Pro I have atm for the 9900K?

Need to offer that model at PPC, not looking forward to paying $34 shipping direct from your store.

Am upgrading to a bigger case and going from quad 360's to dual 480's and dual 560's, Would be interested in how much of a improvement I could get with this block as well


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Definitely know what you mean about hardline fittings not working well. We spent a ton of time on our gasket fittings and they are crazy strong. As for timing, we're going into production on the 2080Ti block right now, Threadripper next week then fittings after that. Then it should be a week or two until they ship. So towards the end of this month we are aiming to have the 12mm and 16mm hardlines available, then 14mm after that. Then 90s, 45s, rotaries and more


I just got the CPU and again interesting results. However, thanks to Optimus resuts, I think i got the bottom of the issue. Its leaning towards being an bios setting issue. So basically the asus X570 board with enhancement mode on causing issues (like its intel board). Once I turned it off, my results agree with Optimus.


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31: thanks for redoing the tests!! Glad to hear it's working well now. Well, the block is working, bios sounds like a pain, hope for the best 

Shawnb99: All our blocks will be on Performance PCs shortly! For performance, the bare die block is really expert stuff, meaning it may not work perfectly for everyone. So many factors, like die thickness, brackets, etc. In some cases, the "regular" block might be better. Some have had great results, others found the block didn't make contact because the bare die bracket wasn't sized correctly or there was too big a gap, etc. 

For normal performance, we were 6.5c better based on PPCs test here: 




Really, we'll need to make our own bare die bracket so all the measurements are correct. But who knows what intel will do next time around, solder v tim, die height, etc. If it makes sense, we'll make a true bare die solution


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Section31: thanks for redoing the tests!! Glad to hear it's working well now. Well, the block is working, bios sounds like a pain, hope for the best
> 
> Shawnb99: All our blocks will be on Performance PCs shortly! For performance, the bare die block is really expert stuff, meaning it may not work perfectly for everyone. So many factors, like die thickness, brackets, etc. In some cases, the "regular" block might be better. Some have had great results, others found the block didn't make contact because the bare die bracket wasn't sized correctly or there was too big a gap, etc.
> 
> For normal performance, we were 6.5c better based on PPCs test here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxBknBlpOJM&feature=youtu.be&t=579
> 
> Really, we'll need to make our own bare die bracket so all the measurements are correct. But who knows what intel will do next time around, solder v tim, die height, etc. If it makes sense, we'll make a true bare die solution


So what block would you recommend for Asus XI Apex board, Rockit cool direct die kit? Regular or Bare die model?


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi!

I would like to install the best waterblock for my R9 3950x (arriving next week). Googling I found this thread. 

Currently I own a Heatkiller IV Pro black copper and if this Optimus block performs better I will do the upgrade.

Any owner of the Optimus Foundation and some Ryzen9 can share impressions about this waterblock performance?

Many thanks,


----------



## Section31

The upgrade is 3-4degrees it appears. They have screenshots how 3900X performed on there test bench. I could get similar results after disabling asus bios enhance performance to default. I did notice the flow rate for the block was much better than the heatkiller, it went up by 0.9-1 L/min.

The heatkiller is still an very capable block for AM4 though it is due for redesigns like the Threadripper/TR4 blocks are getting.


----------



## Shawnb99

Any chance for a coupon or discount code for those of us debating switching over from another block. Looking at grabbing the Signature V2 CPU Block


----------



## Takla

Section31 said:


> The mounting for am4 is all like that. Even the heatkiller am4 doesn’t use the backplate.


Than what is this?










Page 9


----------



## Section31

That was my bad. Thanks for reminding me to correct. I even forgot i posted it and I've been using the block recently too. Just too busy approaching xmas with work, life and fixing the rig up. That and I got couple of rigs that are waiting black friday parts to finish up. The delivery delay is horrendous.


----------



## Kriant

How does Optimus Foundation Ryzen compare to EK Supremacy EVO?


----------



## Section31

Kriant said:


> How does Optimus Foundation Ryzen compare to EK Supremacy EVO?


Till we have professional tests, all we can do is run based on intel cpus tests done by professionals. Off my head, the evo is pretty close in performance to the heatkiller block (1 degree seperation max) though ppl here were having issues with it.


----------



## Keith Myers

I should at least be able to offer some comparisons of the Optimus Foundation AMD block on my 3900X once I get it Tuesday and swap out the Raystorm Pro block. I had the Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos Silver block on it before swapping it out for emergency test reasons and never reinstalled it. The Cuplex block beats the Raystorm Pro by about 1-2° in general on my normal distributed computing BOINC load. Anticipating better results from the Foundation block over even the Cuplex Silver block. I'll post when I get it in and installed.


----------



## shiokarai

3 simple questions: is Signature V2 bare die version compatible with Rockit Cool bare die frame? I suppose yes? (Heatkiller IV Pro works perfectly in this setup, without any modification to the mounting system). Also, will Singature V2 bare die version be available at the performance-pcs.com? And: how is horizontal mounting compatible with Asus Maximus XI boards? (horizontal ie. inlet/outlet are in horizontal position, not up/down).

Bonus question: what's the difference between signature vs foundation blocks?


----------



## newls1

so is this block worth buying over the heatkiller block or the ek velocity block? I have a brand new heatkiller pro IV all copper block, and upon opening it up to see what the fin base looked like, i was very upset with how small it was. i dont even think 50% of the chiplets even get a contact path with the fins. This block looks amazing as far as that is concerned. also the heatkillers fins go the opposite direction to where the chiplets are but ek goes the right direction. Currently using the ek velocity and am not happy with perofrmance of it so ive been thinking about adding this block... thoughts?


----------



## Shawnb99

shiokarai said:


> 3 simple questions: is Signature V2 bare die version compatible with Rockit Cool bare die frame? I suppose yes? (Heatkiller IV Pro works perfectly in this setup, without any modification to the mounting system). Also, will Singature V2 bare die version be available at the performance-pcs.com? And: how is horizontal mounting compatible with Asus Maximus XI boards? (horizontal ie. inlet/outlet are in horizontal position, not up/down).
> 
> 
> 
> Bonus question: what's the difference between signature vs foundation blocks?




I asked the same question on the Rockit Cool frame, am running the same setup Heatkiller IV works perfectly Asus XI Apex board.

Here’s the reply I got so far “ For performance, the bare die block is really expert stuff, meaning it may not work perfectly for everyone. So many factors, like die thickness, brackets, etc. In some cases, the "regular" block might be better. Some have had great results, others found the block didn't make contact because the bare die bracket wasn't sized correctly or there was too big a gap, etc.”

I’ll likely order one before the week is out so hopefully we’ll get some answers by then.


----------



## jfrob75

*Order Placed for Optimus Foundation*

Based on what I was reading here I went to the Optimus web site and really liked what I saw of their design. In particular their micro fin area appears to be significantly larger than other AM4 water blocks, which may be an advantage. I just installed a corsair XC7 water block, so will see if this block is an improvement. The micro fin structure in the corsair is of a rectangular shape but appears to have sufficient LxW dimensions to be covering the 3 chiplets in my 3900X.


----------



## Section31

My advice is try both in your setup and see whats better. I intend to run both my ryzen 3000 rigs with optimus blocks but I will keep my heatkiller black nickel cpu block around as backup block. Its still an very good performing block for am4.

Its also one of the best looking blocks out there


----------



## shiokarai

Shawnb99 said:


> I asked the same question on the Rockit Cool frame, am running the same setup Heatkiller IV works perfectly Asus XI Apex board.
> 
> Here’s the reply I got so far “ For performance, the bare die block is really expert stuff, meaning it may not work perfectly for everyone. So many factors, like die thickness, brackets, etc. In some cases, the "regular" block might be better. Some have had great results, others found the block didn't make contact because the bare die bracket wasn't sized correctly or there was too big a gap, etc.”
> 
> I’ll likely order one before the week is out so hopefully we’ll get some answers by then.


Well, this would be my 3rd block for testing with 9900ks and maximus Xi hero bare die, so I'd prefer to get some answers before forking out another $100-200 
Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos NEXT - beautiful block, but not working without serious modifications to the mounting system (huge letdown), Heatkiller IV Pro - working perfectly fine without any modification (albeit only in the vertical mounting position, horizontal = capacitors getting in the way). So I wonder if this another wonder block will actually be better.... I'll admit it, it does look really cool


----------



## ProRules

So when are we going to see benchmarks of AM4 vs other blocks?
ETA for 5700XT block?

I am about to order a full set of HK, But if there's something promising coming out soon, i'll wait for sure.
Oh rads too?

And l/h of 0.9-1 ain't much at all, and the ppcs review had signature v2 and not foundation like AMDs.


----------



## Shawnb99

Will there be a signature edition of the GPU waterblock? And when can we expect the current one to ship?


----------



## lightsout

Section31 said:


> INoctua U12A (similar to 360mm AIO)


Is this really true? It performs that week. Very impressive if so.


----------



## newls1

so im rather confused... is this block going to be an upgrade to lets say the ek velocity or heattkiller pro iv blocks for am4?


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

To answer some quick questions:

We will be eventually releasing a Signature AM4 block. The Signature versions use the same cold plate and overall design, but the top construction is super rigid because of the monolithic block of brass used to make them. 

We'll probably end up canceling the super flat block (aka bare die) because of bare die bracket issues. The block works on some brackets, not on others, and it's just not something we can control...until we make our own bracket  The super flat works very, very well with lapped IHS. Our regular blocks are actually designed with bare die in mind, so the real performance difference people will see won't be reliable until we make our own bracket. 

2080Ti GPU blocks start shipping this week. We've had a TON of interest in a 5700XT block, so we will look to release that after our Threadripper 3 block in a few weeks. 

For a performance reference, *our AM4 Foundation block has a higher surface area than the top performing Threadripper block*. Yes, you read that right  Our Theadripper block has 3.5X+ the surface area. We also have higher flow rate than most blocks (save for those wacky blocks from like 20 years ago with 4 fins). A massive amount of engineering went into this design, but it's needed these days since CPUs are putting out even more heat with crazy numbers of cores.


----------



## newls1

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> To answer some quick questions:
> 
> We will be eventually releasing a Signature AM4 block. The Signature versions use the same cold plate and overall design, but the top construction is super rigid because of the monolithic block of brass used to make them.
> 
> We'll probably end up canceling the super flat block (aka bare die) because of bare die bracket issues. The block works on some brackets, not on others, and it's just not something we can control...until we make our own bracket  The super flat works very, very well with lapped IHS. Our regular blocks are actually designed with bare die in mind, so the real performance difference people will see won't be reliable until we make our own bracket.
> 
> 2080Ti GPU blocks start shipping this week. We've had a TON of interest in a 5700XT block, so we will look to release that after our Threadripper 3 block in a few weeks.
> 
> For a performance reference, *our AM4 Foundation block has a higher surface area than the top performing Threadripper block*. Yes, you read that right  Our Theadripper block has 3.5X+ the surface area. We also have higher flow rate than most blocks (save for those wacky blocks from like 20 years ago with 4 fins). A massive amount of engineering went into this design, but it's needed these days since CPUs are putting out even more heat with crazy numbers of cores.


you actually just replied to an email of mine (or someone there did) and i replied asking if there was a new design coming out for the AM4 socket, and this post answered that. should I wait for that or will the temp / performance not be worth the wait and go ahead and order the foundation block now? Thanks

**EDIT** just ordered the block, im damn excited!


----------



## RichKnecht

Someone mentioned the Optimus block on my thread. I never heard of them actually, so I did some searching. Nice looking block with some great features, but there aren't any reviews comparing it to other blocks such as Heatkiller or EK. I have an EK EVO Suprmeacy now, and ordered a HK IV Pro. I'm running a direct die mounter 7900X right now, but want to upgrade to either 1 7980XE or 10980XE and want the best block I can get to cool the chip.


----------



## J7SC

RichKnecht said:


> Someone mentioned the Optimus block on my thread. I never heard of them actually, so I did some searching. Nice looking block with some great features,* but there aren't any reviews comparing it to other blocks* such as Heatkiller or EK. I have an EK EVO Suprmeacy now, and ordered a HK IV Pro. I'm running a direct die mounter 7900X right now, but want to upgrade to either 1 7980XE or 10980XE and want the best block I can get to cool the chip.


 
...yeah, that was mentioned before and is important. I have blocks for various platforms from at least four different manufacturers, and I don't mind trying s.th. new - but not before there are some trusted third-party tests out by folks such as Gamers Nexus, Tom's HW, HWunboxed etc. There is also the question of durability (plating quality and such) which affects every manufacturer, established or new ...so the sooner these are out in the trusted review cycle and in use by oc'ers, the better !


----------



## RichKnecht

J7SC said:


> ...yeah, that was mentioned before and is important. I have blocks for various platforms from at least four different manufacturers, and I don't mind trying s.th. new - but not before there are some trusted third-party tests out by folks such as Gamers Nexus, Tom's HW, HWunboxed etc. There is also the question of durability (plating quality and such) which affects every manufacturer, established or new ...so the sooner these are out in the trusted review cycle and in use by oc'ers, the better !


I just watched that video that Performance PCs did and it seems like a super impressive block! They saw 6C better temps over HK IV. So, I just cancelled my HK order and will wait and see how these go. I'll just "deal with" my EVO for now.


----------



## TomiKazi

I will be receiving one of your AM4 blocks this week or the next, needs to cross the Atlantic first. Don't expect any interesting number from me though, I'm not that precise when it comes to measuring temps. Needed a new block anyway because for some reason my current block has a tiny outward bump which made a dent in the heatsink of the 1800x. Don't ask me how or why, I don't know.


----------



## Shawnb99

Just ordered myself the Signature block, looking forward to see what improvement I get.


----------



## ThrashZone

newls1 said:


> so im rather confused... is this block going to be an upgrade to lets say the ek velocity or heattkiller pro iv blocks for am4?


Hi,
I don't see much of any difference in this block and the velocity 
Same vertical narrow jet spray.
Only difference is thinner cooling fins will this equal 5c cooler than the velocity I very much doubt it.

Heatkiller iv pro has at least and larger jet spray and also horizontal in it's default mount 

Other two evo/ velocity you'd have to rotate 90 degrees but even the velocity is better than the evo. 

Being you have direct die you'd need the ultra flat nickle or copper and that's 209.us just a tad on the pricey side.


----------



## Shawnb99

Never got a response back from my email asking about the ultra flat and the Rockit cool bracket so I ordered the normal one. I hope I didn’t make a mistake cause I’d of preferred the flat one but lack of response made me choose otherwise.
Never answered when I asked here either so hopefully I won’t have issues


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Direct die would want a flat block since the die is flat.
If you just install on a regular chip doubt it would workout very well since no chip is flat unless you lap it flat which well voids warranty just as delidding does.


----------



## newls1

thinking about lapping this 3950x's IHS.... to give this optimus block the best fighting chance. Good idea, yay or nay?


----------



## ThrashZone

newls1 said:


> thinking about lapping this 3950x's IHS.... to give this optimus block the best fighting chance. Good idea, yay or nay?


Hi,
Nay
I'm sure amd voids warranties too lapping chips.


----------



## MoDeNa

Received my Optimus Foundation block today. I will be installing it with the 3950x also received today.

For better perfomance as posible, should I install like it is mentioned in the instructions sheet or should I rotate it?

Many thanks,

PS:


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Probably best to try both and decide which performs best.


----------



## skupples

i just wanna get my hands on one of those 2080ti blocks. though I think by that time I might as well wait for the 3080ti and its block


----------



## shiokarai

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Direct die would want a flat block since the die is flat.
> If you just install on a regular chip doubt it would workout very well since no chip is flat unless you lap it flat which well voids warranty just as delidding does.


Not necessarily, they've specifically said few posts above, that "regular" foundation block is ok for direct die. The convex cold plate is actually not detrimental to the mainstream intel CPUs direct die (I'd assume this would be an issue with AMD CPUs, but you don't run them direct die), as the CPU core is small and the block has perfect contact with the die (I'm using Heatkiller IV Pro now with my 9900ks and it's perfectly fine).

So this seems foundation block should have the exact same results as signature block?


----------



## MoDeNa

I think I am a bit asleep as having a look at Optimus Foundation AM4 instructions I have some concerns when I reach step 4. 

To install those securing nuts, should I remove motherboard backplate that comes by default?

EDIT: Instructions


----------



## Keith Myers

I am going to install mine as designed. It appears to be the correct orientation for the water flow to go across the CCD dies.


----------



## Keith Myers

Yes, I asked the same question of Optimus. The backplate needs to be removed. The mounting studs go into the motherboard backplate socket nut holes and you use the provided small nuts to tighten the studs down. There are no springs. The thumbnuts and the block mount plate apply the tension on cpu IHS to spread the TIM. You can reef the thumbnuts down considerably with no stop. So be careful and don't over tighten the thumbnuts. Use common sense. If you need to check your TIM spread,you can remove the block once to see if you are tightening enough and getting a good pattern.


----------



## newls1

why in the "F" would they elect to not use the amd provided backplate.. this makes no sense. using a backplate spreads the tension out and NOT bowing the motherboard. I have when companies do this. I was so excited for this block till i just read this. AND NO SPRINGS... ***... either im to old school and used to having tension springs for all my waterblock installs or im missing something here.. Think it would be worthwhile modifying there bracket by using the backplate and using springs?


----------



## MoDeNa

Keith Myers said:


> Yes, I asked the same question of Optimus. The backplate needs to be removed. The mounting studs go into the motherboard backplate socket nut holes and you use the provided small nuts to tighten the studs down. There are no springs. The thumbnuts and the block mount plate apply the tension on cpu IHS to spread the TIM. You can reef the thumbnuts down considerably with no stop. So be careful and don't over tighten the thumbnuts. Use common sense. If you need to check your TIM spread,you can remove the block once to see if you are tightening enough and getting a good pattern.


Many thanks for your comment, it is very helpful. 



newls1 said:


> why in the "F" would they elect to not use the amd provided backplate.. this makes no sense. using a backplate spreads the tension out and NOT bowing the motherboard. I have when companies do this. I was so excited for this block till i just read this. AND NO SPRINGS... ***... either im to old school and used to having tension springs for all my waterblock installs or im missing something here.. Think it would be worthwhile modifying there bracket by using the backplate and using springs?


Totally agree with you. This is a fail for me. I did not realize about this. If I knew this in advance I would not order the block. I don't want to damage or "tattoo" an expensive motherboard because of some basic parts are not included neither considered within the installation process, even more when the backplate is already provided with the motherboard.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Probably could use any amd mount just don't over tighten.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, Optimus here. 

We're working on this and we'll send out new screws (no charge, naturally) for anyone whose board isn't compatible with the standard mounting. Since we're in Chicago, we should be able to get you the right parts quickly. 

As for the spring question, we still have springs and backplates (Intel) from our original blocks, but this cleaner simplified mounting is easier at getting the best performance. Typically springs get compressed all the way with most blocks, so they basically turn into just spring-shaped thumbscrews. GPU blocks don't have springs, there really isn't much reason except tradition to have springs. At least in our opinion. But we're happy to do what customers want


----------



## RichKnecht

I really don't care about springs or no springs. My concern would be the ability, or possibility of over tightening the block. As long as the mounting thumb screw has a physical "stop" to prevent the block from being over tightened, it's all good. I think this is even more important for people like me who are running a bare die.


----------



## Keith Myers

Optimus has the chance to screw that up like Corsair does with their AM4 mount studs. Those don't have the correct height and cause the AIO mount tension spring to have zero deflection and no mount pressure.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, Optimus here.
> 
> We're working on this and we'll send out new screws (no charge, naturally) for anyone whose board isn't compatible with the standard mounting. Since we're in Chicago, we should be able to get you the right parts quickly.
> 
> As for the spring question, we still have springs and backplates (Intel) from our original blocks, but this cleaner simplified mounting is easier at getting the best performance. Typically springs get compressed all the way with most blocks, so they basically turn into just spring-shaped thumbscrews. GPU blocks don't have springs, there really isn't much reason except tradition to have springs. At least in our opinion. But we're happy to do what customers want /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


I would be interested in them if you offer them.


----------



## Hale59

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, Optimus here.
> 
> We're working on this and we'll send out new screws (no charge, naturally) for anyone whose board isn't compatible with the standard mounting. Since we're in Chicago, we should be able to get you the right parts quickly.
> 
> As for the spring question, we still have springs and backplates (Intel) from our original blocks, but this cleaner simplified mounting is easier at getting the best performance. Typically springs get compressed all the way with most blocks, so they basically turn into just spring-shaped thumbscrews. GPU blocks don't have springs, there really isn't much reason except tradition to have springs. At least in our opinion. But we're happy to do what customers want


https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...fficial-heatkiller-club-414.html#post28233682


----------



## newls1

I have this block coming in the mail tomorrow and im hoping i can use the screws that heatkiller supplies with their block (which use factory backplate) and use these to mount this optimus block. Dont see why this wouldnt work. Optimus, would you see an issue with this? Hell, might just use all the mounting hardware heatkiller provided with their block to mount this block. Their springs offer super tight tension and are of great quality. Ill report back with pics and update of what i figure out while mounting this block


----------



## Blze001

Poked my head in here to see what's up, and wow: they've grown a bit since I bought my V1 block awhile back.

That V1 is an impressive piece of kit, they make really good stuff.


----------



## StAndrew

I've always preferred hard mounting over springs but I know that hard mounting requires careful tightening to get proper pressure and may require remounting if not done right. 

There is a very valid reason for springs and I'm surprised an Optimus rep doesn't know this; they are easier, safer, and provide equal pressure on the block for repeatable mounting performance. If the spring rate is properly researched, you can get a very good mount, however I will admit I find my self, more often than not, having to use an extra washer to get my desired mounting pressure. 

That said, no back plate confuses me. GPU's use backplates (and full cover blocks that supports the entire PCB). I'm not entirely sold on the requirement but I enjoy the piece of mind, especially when hard mounting due to the possibility of over tightening. I'm also aware that almost the ENTIRE community take backplates for granted. To not include one in the block mounting is a failure of the Optimus sales department. Even if the technicians concluded that backplate wasn't needed (with a hard mount setup - really? With springs at least you can control the maximum pressure exerted on the block and motherboard...), the sales department should have at least realized that the customers expect a backplate. 

The only logical conclusion is mass produced EK blocks as well as Chinese price gouging is making it harder for smaller companies to stay competitive in today's market... Hard mounting solutions are cheaper.


----------



## ThrashZone

newls1 said:


> I have this block coming in the mail tomorrow and im hoping i can use the screws that heatkiller supplies with their block (which use factory backplate) and use these to mount this optimus block. Dont see why this wouldnt work. Optimus, would you see an issue with this? Hell, might just use all the mounting hardware heatkiller provided with their block to mount this block. Their springs offer super tight tension and are of great quality. Ill report back with pics and update of what i figure out while mounting this block


Hi,
If the heatkiller has studs and nut system it can probably work just fine 
I'm using an ek evo mount on my heatkiller 
Evo has studs/ springs and nuts.

Evo and heatkiller are different height from base cold plate to mounting bracket so tightening isn't by bottoming out nut just have to play with it with equal turns x 4.


----------



## TK421

Optimus block that's optimized for direct die 115x/20xx where?


----------



## ThrashZone

Keith Myers said:


> I am going to install mine as designed. It appears to be the correct orientation for the water flow to go across the CCD dies.


Hi,
Smaller dies are supposed to be the hottest ones 
Designs now days focusing on hitting the center of a chip is not working well go figure why seeing only half the fluid is cooling the hottest die at best.
Focus really needs to hit these smaller dies first.


----------



## RichKnecht

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Smaller dies are supposed to be the hottest ones
> Designs now days focusing on hitting the center of a chip is not working well go figure why seeing only half the fluid is cooling the hottest die at best.
> Focus really needs to hit these smaller dies first.


Exactly. Compared to a 7960 or 7980, the 7900X die is very small and narrow. Even with direct die mounting like I have, proper contact between the die and the block is critical. Also, if the block only hits the center of the die due to it not being flat, it will put unwanted pressure in the center of the assembly which can bend it thus possibly causing it to not make proper contact in the socket. My 7900x was a bear to get mounted correctly with direct die. It is VERY sensitive to uneven pressure applied by the die frame. Add to that an uneven block surface, and you may as well buy stock in Thermal Grizzly, because you are going to use a lot of liquid metal trying to get the thermal contact just right.


----------



## Section31

I think an redesign of blocks are coming nonetheless. Intel 7nm is likely an major redesign and might make all current blocks no longer effective.


----------



## ThrashZone

RichKnecht said:


> Exactly. Compared to a 7960 or 7980, the 7900X die is very small and narrow. Even with direct die mounting like I have, proper contact between the die and the block is critical. Also, if the block only hits the center of the die due to it not being flat, it will put unwanted pressure in the center of the assembly which can bend it thus possibly causing it to not make proper contact in the socket. My 7900x was a bear to get mounted correctly with direct die. It is VERY sensitive to uneven pressure applied by the die frame. Add to that an uneven block surface, and you may as well buy stock in Thermal Grizzly, because you are going to use a lot of liquid metal trying to get the thermal contact just right.


Hi,
Yeah I ordered a direct die frame off aliexpress it never showed up although the shipper said it did 
Had to contact credit card and dispute the the charge from the obvious fraud seller aliexpress automatically took sides with never use that rat**** site again but it's all good cc did it's job well :doh:


----------



## Keith Myers

Section31 said:


> I would be interested in them if you offer them.


I am also interested in the alternate mounting studs that would thread into the stock AMD backplate. Let us know when you have them available.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
EK probably has amd mounting kits I know watercool does but not sure what type it is bolts or studs and nuts.


----------



## jfrob75

Received my Optimus Foundation water block today. It will be replacing the Corsair XC7 water block. My plan is to compare the 2 water blocks to determine if it might be possible to use the Corsair mounting hardware.
A question concerning temps. I have my CH8 displaying the CPU temp thru the on board display which seems to match the CPU temp from the Nuvoton chip on the MB. Of course HWiNFO shows many other temps. What temperature do you guy's monitor?


----------



## Section31

Reminder to all here, no matter the block, please don't overscrew. I have noticed this with the heatkiller block on my 3700x. You actually don't want to screw it till its slightly tight as it doesn't take a lot for the cpu to get stuck to the cpu block. Once you pull out the block, the cpu will come out with it. Then you have long time cleaning the cpu.


----------



## Optimus WC

jfrob75 said:


> Received my Optimus Foundation water block today. It will be replacing the Corsair XC7 water block. My plan is to compare the 2 water blocks to determine if it might be possible to use the Corsair mounting hardware.
> A question concerning temps. I have my CH8 displaying the CPU temp thru the on board display which seems to match the CPU temp from the Nuvoton chip on the MB. Of course HWiNFO shows many other temps. What temperature do you guy's monitor?


Great, let me know how it goes!


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> Reminder to all here, no matter the block, please don't overscrew. I have noticed this with the heatkiller block on my 3700x. You actually don't want to screw it till its slightly tight as it doesn't take a lot for the cpu to get stuck to the cpu block. Once you pull out the block, the cpu will come out with it. Then you have long time cleaning the cpu.


Definitely. The AM4 needs a redesign. Threadripper is solid, but these cpus pull out way too easily. We've used a number of AM4 blocks and they almost all create suction, which causes the CPU to pull out when dismounting the block. 

Also, because the clamping system clamps onto the pins, it seems like it's easy to damage the pins with any waterblock that creates good contact.


----------



## Shawnb99

My Signature ultra flat is on its way, looking forward to comparing it to my Heatkiller IV Pro.


Not looking forward to reapplying the liquid metal though, damn stuff gets everywhere


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> My Signature ultra flat is on its way, looking forward to comparing it to my Heatkiller IV Pro.
> 
> 
> Not looking forward to reapplying the liquid metal though, damn stuff gets everywhere


Awesome! Let me know how it goes  Performance should be great  If there are issues, some have reported die frames out there not machined perfectly and the block doesn't make correct contact. But if ya run into any issues, shoot us an email, we'll take care of it


----------



## skupples

too honest, you'll never make it in this business! 

I hear that in my head often while cashing checks for tasks other shops attempt to throw parts at.


----------



## RichKnecht

Shawnb99 said:


> My Signature ultra flat is on its way, looking forward to comparing it to my Heatkiller IV Pro.
> 
> 
> Not looking forward to reapplying the liquid metal though, damn stuff gets everywhere


I think I am going to order a Signature too when II get back from Florida in a few weeks. See how it compares to my EVO on my 7900X direct die. Not sure if I am going for the ultra flat or standard. Chime in Optimus if you like


----------



## Section31

I wish we could get people to test out the GPU waterblocks tested out. I am really curious how they perform compared to the rest.


----------



## skupples

sure, as soon as a 2080ti block actually exists, I'll let you know.


----------



## goldenleaf

Any idea when the Threadripper blocks will get released? Days, weeks, months?


----------



## ThrashZone

RichKnecht said:


> I think I am going to order a Signature too when II get back from Florida in a few weeks. See how it compares to my EVO on my 7900X direct die. Not sure if I am going for the ultra flat or standard. Chime in Optimus if you like


Hi,
Ultra flat would probably be best "no flexing" to deal with 
The die for the most part should be flat so contact should be a lot easier with a flat block.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey hey, to answer some questions:

-2080Ti Reference GPU blocks with copper midplates start shipping next week. They're being made right now and they're the best product we've made so far 

-GPU performance is, like everything, dependent on the silicon lottery. If you're pushing higher wattage through your block, you'll see some nice improvement. We've done some really new things to cool VRMs and the like so you can get higher MHz due to less power consumption. 

-That said, it's really hard to give exact numbers. Every GPU we test is different. But compared to the competitor blocks we've tested, ours has the top numbers, especially in custom OC situations. And, of course, it's extremely corrosion and crack resistant. Can't wait to get it in people's hands!!

-Threadripper will be released after GPU blocks go out. Surface area really is 3X+ larger than the next best competitor. 

-For bare die, we recommend our Standard Signature. There is zero flex in that block, given it's made out of a solid block of brass. The cold plate is made for bare die as well as normal IHS. If you have a LAPPED IHS, then you need the ultra flat block. 

-We're going to stop selling the ultra flat block for bare die because our regular one is the best choice and the die brackets on the market aren't precise enough for users to get consistent results. Our GPU block is, of course, ultra flat for the GPU naked die like the pc gods intended. 

-If bare die continues to be viable (looking at you, Intel), then we'll make our own bracket/system.


----------



## Kriant

Ordered a foundation block for AMD (before discovering that the mounting requires removal of the factory backplate). Any chance Optimus will release a different mounting system akin to that of EK Evo or XSPC Raystorm blocks? I would rather not take of the backplate off my Aorus Xtreme.


----------



## skupples

next week you say? =\ 

must resist. I was gonna stick a morpheus on this 2080ti & call it my go to backup for the next decade.



Kriant said:


> Ordered a foundation block for AMD (before discovering that the mounting requires removal of the factory backplate). Any chance Optimus will release a different mounting system akin to that of EK Evo or XSPC Raystorm blocks? I would rather not take of the backplate off my Aorus Xtreme.


there's a post not too far back (2-3 days ago max) that goes over how they're handling this. 

I believe it was along the lines of sending out screws to those that wanna retain the back plate.


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> next week you say? =\
> 
> must resist. I was gonna stick a morpheus on this 2080ti & call it my go to backup for the next decade.
> 
> 
> 
> there's a post not too far back (2-3 days ago max) that goes over how they're handling this.
> 
> I believe it was along the lines of sending out screws to those that wanna retain the back plate.


Don't resist! 

For the backplate, really, removing the AMD backplate is the best option. It's there for the stock air coolers. The whole AMD AM4 socket leaves much to be desired. As long as you don't overdo the tightening, you won't have any issues. This is true for all waterblocks.

We're still evaluating options, but the AMD backplate with standoffs that go through the motherboard doesn't provide enough room for mounting our block to that backplate. 

Ultimately, you'll get top performance using our screw and nut system  

TIP: WIGGLE YOUR BLOCKS OFF -- the AMD clamp and pin mount is terrible. Some waterblocks will create suction that can pull the CPU out of the socket, causing pins to be damaged. Try to wiggle then pry off the block, not just lift it straight up like you would with Intel and Threadripper.


----------



## skupples

we'll see what the Christmas bonus looks like, maybe  

^^ can confirm, have ripped AMD chips outta that crappy 2 dollar plastic socket they're so committed to retaining.


----------



## Shawnb99

This GPU block going to fit perfectly on every 2080ti? Will it have a backplate?

If it’ll fit my GPU without issues I might consider taking off my Hydrocopper for this block. 
Looking forward to see results.


----------



## Keith Myers

*Space the backplate away from the back of the motherboard*



> We're still evaluating options, but the AMD backplate with standoffs that go through the motherboard doesn't provide enough room for mounting our block to that backplate.


Please try and figure out a way to retain the backplate and still not compromise the great cooling your block offers.

I dislike/(vehemently hate) the Corsair AIO mounting studs that do not provide enough room for the block/pump to be mounted with any tension. My solution has always been to add 8 fiber washers to the backplate posts between the motherboard and backplate, two per post. That pulls the posts flush with the top surface of the motherboard and allows the mount tension plate to actually deflect and apply some force to the IHS.

Maybe something similar could be done for your mounting studs. That would allow me to put my socket fan back on the backplate for additional cooling.


----------



## Shawnb99

Keith Myers said:


> Please try and figure out a way to retain the backplate and still not compromise the great cooling your block offers.
> 
> 
> 
> I dislike/(vehemently hate) the Corsair AIO mounting studs that do not provide enough room for the block/pump to be mounted with any tension. My solution has always been to add 8 fiber washers to the backplate posts between the motherboard and backplate, two per post. That pulls the posts flush with the top surface of the motherboard and allows the mount tension plate to actually deflect and apply some force to the IHS.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe something similar could be done for your mounting studs. That would allow me to put my socket fan back on the backplate for additional cooling.




If you’re WC and still need to add a fan to the backplate you’re doing something wrong or you need a better AIO.


----------



## newls1

I just took delivery of my AMD Foundation block, and am even more discouraged about its installation. It's bad enough we dont get to use the AMD backplate, or even get a new backplate included, but they dont even include some sort of fiber/rubber gasket to place UNDER the threaded aluminium nut they want you to thread the studs into. So the bottom PCB of my 400$ motherboard will get scraped / scratched, and certainly not a good choice plus you CAN NOT have a metal bare touch the pcb in this area, god only knows what it may touch laying directly on board PLUS with the added tension this will have when tighting down the nuts. This is a god damn disgrace and would love my money back but to late for that. OPTIUMS COOLING, please chime in and make this right. Either its just missing in my box and you actually really do include rubber/fiber washers or you really expect us adapters of your *NEW* products to actually install it this way. Ive been in the PC world since cerca ~ 1993 era, so im no n00b! Your marketing won me over on all the praise you talk about "your mounting system" on the website only to find its 40cents of crap. Fix this please.... Here is a pic of everything included in my box (minus the thermal paste) and showing everyone what your "idea" of a great mounting system includes of:...... *Optimus Cooling, to make this right you will send me out a real mounting system.. something worth my 130$ that I paid for this block.. Make this right please
*
**EDIT** Just sent Optimus an email through their website regarding this as well... Ill post up what they reply with


----------



## Keith Myers

Shawnb99 said:


> If you’re WC and still need to add a fan to the backplate you’re doing something wrong or you need a better AIO.


Don't knock it till you've tried it. Adding a 40mm fan to the socket backside has been a simple $5 trick for over ten years for AMD cpu users. Easily drop cpu temps 4-6°. You can't get that kind of improvement in any water cooling part for $5. If you have the fan why not use it and avail yourself of an easy temp gain. When you run your cpus flat out like I have always done, every little trick is needed to get temps down for performance and longevity.

There are no traces and no components anywhere in area of the motherboard surrounding the holes the backplate posts pass through. The size of the securing nuts are small and do not touch anything. Besides, the nuts are anodized and are not electrically conductive. I have no qualms using their current mounting system except the loss of the backplate for fixing my cooling fan.


----------



## Optimus WC

newls1 said:


> I just took delivery of my AMD Foundation block, and am even more discouraged about its installation. It's bad enough we dont get to use the AMD backplate, or even get a new backplate included, but they dont even include some sort of fiber/rubber gasket to place UNDER the threaded aluminium nut they want you to thread the studs into. So the bottom PCB of my 400$ motherboard will get scraped / scratched, and certainly not a good choice plus you CAN NOT have a metal bare touch the pcb in this area, god only knows what it may touch laying directly on board PLUS with the added tension this will have when tighting down the nuts. This is a god damn disgrace and would love my money back but to late for that. OPTIUMS COOLING, please chime in and make this right. Either its just missing in my box and you actually really do include rubber/fiber washers or you really expect us adapters of your *NEW* products to actually install it this way. Ive been in the PC world since cerca ~ 1993 era, so im no n00b! Your marketing won me over on all the praise you talk about "your mounting system" on the website only to find its 40cents of crap. Fix this please.... Here is a pic of everything included in my box (minus the thermal paste) and showing everyone what your "idea" of a great mounting system includes of:...... *Optimus Cooling, to make this right you will send me out a real mounting system.. something worth my 130$ that I paid for this block.. Make this right please
> *
> **EDIT** Just sent Optimus an email through their website regarding this as well... Ill post up what they reply with


Hey there, 
We're happy to take the block back. You can return it, exchange, we'll send out new stuff, etc. We're all PC builders here, Optimus came from wanting to make great product. And provide great service the kind we've always wanted  

Couple of things to know:
-Our streamlined mounting has been used hundreds of times without issue, and used to get excellent thermal results
-We used to included springs, backplates, etc. with our intel blocks, but it's just not needed. Kinda like Molex D5s. It's legacy, time to advance. At least, in our opinion. 
-The only reason companies still go with springs is because people complain or seem to think there is only one way to mount. After all GPUs are bare die with no springs. 
-We feel springless mounting is the best way to go. It allows much cleaner application of pressure. 
-And back plates aren't really needed. You can easily apply plenty of pressure correctly with our system. Plastic backplates simply bend. Metal ones add more risk than they're worth. PCBs are thick, this has never been a problem for us or anyone who doesn't use backplates. 
-After all, GPUs don't use backplates, monoblocks don't use backplates. Of course, they bottom out, ours doesn't. But this isn't an issue as long as someone doesn't over tighten to the extreme. 
-The only reason this AMD backplate issue is even coming up is because the AM4 socket is really bad and AMD includes the backplate for their stock cooler, unlike intel. 
-Our mounting conforms to AMD and Intel socket specs for spacing to avoid motherboard contacts
-So nothing on the mobo should touch our mounting
-If something on the board does touch, our mounting is non-conductive and anodized. You won't ever have issues.
-The reason for the lack of washers is because they're a PITA for installation and we've decided they're not needed. They cost fractions of pennies, so it's not a cost issue for us. If you really feel this is needed, we can send you out some (no charge of course). 
-We found it just takes more time than needed and the results aren't worth it. 
-Also, washers on top under springs simply compress and wiggle to the side, so compression isn't even across the area of the thumb nut. And the top washers look ugly and don't serve a real purpose. Unless you're worried about the scuff the mounting thumb nut leaves on the metal. But that's hidden anyway. We felt that was better than seeing an ugly fiber washer sticking out. 
-Also, our mounting costs vastly more than 40 cents. We make everything in-house in Chicago. Maybe it doesn't seem impressive, but it's all 6061-T6 hardened aluminum and/or stainless steel. These aren't Alibaba specials.
-If we wanted to save a buck, we'd just buy Alibaba mounting springs etc. We actually have boxes of that stuff from earlier projects. But we don't want to just use what everyone else uses because that's tradition. We want to do what we think is the best, cleanest solution and make it in USA. 

Again, we feel our streamlined mounting system gives the best performance, ease of use and, finally, looks. And the performance people get from our blocks backs this up. Of course, if we do need to make changes, we'll immediately make those changes and take care of our customers. Our goal is to make excellent, quality product with awesome performance. And to make our customers happy 



Shawnb99 said:


> This GPU block going to fit perfectly on every 2080ti? Will it have a backplate?
> 
> If it’ll fit my GPU without issues I might consider taking off my Hydrocopper for this block.
> Looking forward to see results.


The first block is made for the 2080ti reference PCB. So the EVGA XC and regular GPUs will work. We'll do the fancier editions like FTW and Kingpin hopefully early next year. And no backplate yet, we're working on a cool design. But we're starting with pure performance and reliability on the gpu block.


----------



## newls1

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there,
> We're happy to take the block back. You can return it, exchange, we'll send out new stuff, etc. We're all PC builders here, Optimus came from wanting to make great product. And provide great service the kind we've always wanted
> 
> Couple of things to know:
> -Our streamlined mounting has been used hundreds of times without issue, and used to get excellent thermal results
> -We used to included springs, backplates, etc. with our intel blocks, but it's just not needed. Kinda like Molex D5s. It's legacy, time to advance. At least, in our opinion.
> -The only reason companies still go with springs is because people complain or seem to think there is only one way to mount. After all GPUs are bare die with no springs.
> -We feel springless mounting is the best way to go. It allows much cleaner application of pressure.
> -And back plates aren't really needed. You can easily apply plenty of pressure correctly with our system. Plastic backplates simply bend. Metal ones add more risk than they're worth. PCBs are thick, this has never been a problem for us or anyone who doesn't use backplates.
> -After all, GPUs don't use backplates, monoblocks don't use backplates. Of course, they bottom out, ours doesn't. But this isn't an issue as long as someone doesn't over tighten to the extreme.
> -The only reason this AMD backplate issue is even coming up is because the AM4 socket is really bad and AMD includes the backplate for their stock cooler, unlike intel.
> -Our mounting conforms to AMD and Intel socket specs for spacing to avoid motherboard contacts
> -So nothing on the mobo should touch our mounting
> -If something on the board does touch, our mounting is non-conductive and anodized. You won't ever have issues.
> -The reason for the lack of washers is because they're a PITA for installation and we've decided they're not needed. They cost fractions of pennies, so it's not a cost issue for us. If you really feel this is needed, we can send you out some (no charge of course).
> -We found it just takes more time than needed and the results aren't worth it.
> -Also, washers on top under springs simply compress and wiggle to the side, so compression isn't even across the area of the thumb nut. And the top washers look ugly and don't serve a real purpose. Unless you're worried about the scuff the mounting thumb nut leaves on the metal. But that's hidden anyway. We felt that was better than seeing an ugly fiber washer sticking out.
> -Also, our mounting costs vastly more than 40 cents. We make everything in-house in Chicago. Maybe it doesn't seem impressive, but it's all 6061-T6 hardened aluminum and/or stainless steel. These aren't Alibaba specials.
> -If we wanted to save a buck, we'd just buy Alibaba mounting springs etc. We actually have boxes of that stuff from earlier projects. But we don't want to just use what everyone else uses because that's tradition. We want to do what we think is the best, cleanest solution and make it in USA.
> 
> Again, we feel our streamlined mounting system gives the best performance, ease of use and, finally, looks. And the performance people get from our blocks backs this up. Of course, if we do need to make changes, we'll immediately make those changes and take care of our customers. Our goal is to make excellent, quality product with awesome performance. And to make our customers happy


You can not tell me that compressing the aluminum threaded nut on backside of motherboard with NO fiber/rubber washer in place is good. Clearly some sort of protection needs to be placed on mobo surface. There isnt a single person here that would argue this fact with me. Something needs to be corrected. I hate this mounting design. YOu have great thread forum support, and this block seems to be nice, but this mounting system is for the birds... so where do we stand on this?

*EDIT* EKWB mounting backplate and studs work with this block.. looks like i have that option available for me, but will wait to see what optimus does here first... Optimus Cooling, I really DO NOT mean to come off as a d*ck, i truely dont, im very frustrated by this mounting system and this cant be the first time people have complained about this... you as a company should really consider improving this.


----------



## Optimus WC

newls1 said:


> You can not tell me that compressing the aluminum threaded nut on backside of motherboard with NO fiber/rubber washer in place is good. Clearly some sort of protection needs to be placed on mobo surface. There isnt a single person here that would argue this fact with me. Something needs to be corrected. I hate this mounting design. YOu have great thread forum support, and this block seems to be nice, but this mounting system is for the birds... so where do we stand on this?


We're putting some washers in the mail for you right now, you should get them shortly. 

Regarding washers, we're not sure they're needed. After all, motherboards aren't attached to PC cases with washers. M.2s don't use washers. Stock GPU coolers don't use washers. 

Mobo PCBs aren't that fragile. And mobos are made with a good deal of spacing (aka "keep out area") for traces to prevent issues. In fact, there are more problems with incorrect backplates pushing on different parts of mobos than would be ideal. We've used full stainless steel conductive thumb nuts with zero issues. Maybe a crazy ASRock ITX board has contacts touching the mounts could cause problems? But ours are so small and sized right that we can be used with any mobo out there. 

Also, I haven't heard of issues with mobos cracking due to lack of washers. Not that washers the same size would alleviate that. Washers typically help with spreading the load of a screw over a wider area, which is not what we're trying to do here. And since the mobo PCB is sandwiched between our standoff and thumb nut, there is no way for the PCB to crack in that area. 

Again, we're happy to include washers if there is a logical reason to do so. It kinda feels like this is one of those times that because everyone includes washers, we should to. Even though they're annoying to use and don't serve a real purpose. The only comments we've received are people wondering why we go this route. But no one has complained about performance. In fact, the opposite. But, again, happy to provide a better solution as long as there is a measurable benefit


----------



## newls1

Optimus WC said:


> We're putting some washers in the mail for you right now, you should get them shortly.
> 
> Regarding washers, we're not sure they're needed. After all, motherboards aren't attached to PC cases with washers. M.2s don't use washers. Stock GPU coolers don't use washers.
> 
> Mobo PCBs aren't that fragile. And mobos are made with a good deal of spacing (aka "keep out area") for traces to prevent issues. In fact, there are more problems with incorrect backplates pushing on different parts of mobos than would be ideal. We've used full stainless steel conductive thumb nuts with zero issues. Maybe a crazy ASRock ITX board has contacts touching the mounts could cause problems? But ours are so small and sized right that we can be used with any mobo out there.
> 
> Also, I haven't heard of issues with mobos cracking due to lack of washers. Not that washers the same size would alleviate that. Washers typically help with spreading the load of a screw over a wider area, which is not what we're trying to do here. And since the mobo PCB is sandwiched between our standoff and thumb nut, there is no way for the PCB to crack in that area.
> 
> Again, we're happy to include washers if there is a logical reason to do so. It kinda feels like this is one of those times that because everyone includes washers, we should to. Even though they're annoying to use and don't serve a real purpose. The only comments we've received are people wondering why we go this route. But no one has complained about performance. In fact, the opposite. But, again, happy to provide a better solution as long as there is a measurable benefit


save your shipping costs, i have A BILLION thin fiber washers here to use. Thanks for the offer.


----------



## skupples

folks are just used to the overbuilt nature of everyone else's products I suppose. 

I get it, tbh. Your branding & marketing line up with overbuilt, so the mounting solution should be as well, even if its of no benefit, otherwise it appears as being cheap  

I only use GPU block washers.


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> folks are just used to the overbuilt nature of everyone else's products I suppose.
> 
> I get it, tbh. Your branding & marketing line up with overbuilt, so the mounting solution should be as well, even if its of no benefit, otherwise it appears as being cheap
> 
> I only use GPU block washers.


You make an excellent point! That's a great way to put it. I'll tell our marketing guy to get his act together. And that guy is me, so I better get to work


----------



## skupples

i'm sure many of us appreciate the thick skin.


----------



## newls1

Optimus WC said:


> You make an excellent point! That's a great way to put it. I'll tell our marketing guy to get his act together. And that guy is me, so I better get to work



Why am I not laughing....


----------



## Section31

I will say great customer service. Very few companies would spend the time you do handling these posts. 

I am in agreement with Skrupples here. 

I feel the current mechanism is sufficient and doubt it will damage the motherboard. The only issue I have is one of the nuts on the back will come little loss once you install the block in. But that's minor thing. AMD AM4 Mounting is not ideal, i have had to spend lot of time cleaning up thermal paste on the 3700X. I have never had thermal paste get on the CPU pin side. Fortunate, nothing happened but still. 

That being said, I see us all considering changing blocks again once Intel 7nm and AMD 5nm CPU's come out. Heatkiller CPU IV design is all the way from 2015, XPSC Raystorm Pro and Aquacomputer around 2016. I have no clue about EKWB one. Phantek I just don't know, there stuff looks unique but there performance is not among the top. The most recent blocks are Optimus and Swiftech Heirloom using the thinnest microfin designs. We are long overdue for an complete new design block that will serve the future CPU's.

My suggestion is design wise, i prefer the look of the aquacomputer/heatkiller gpu blocks compared to the ekwb style. I wouldn't mind trying out your 2080ti blocks if it wasn't for the fact, I am planning to get the 3080ti next year so i am better off not spending more on a 2080ti block. That and it's not exactly easy installing the 2080TI block (there are lot of thermal pads I had to put on).


----------



## skupples

newls1 said:


> Why am I not laughing....


because you're overreacting.

and as to the GPU block. I completely agree. I'll jump on board with the next round of GPUs. All issues perceived or otherwise should be ironed out by then.


----------



## Optimus WC

For the GPU, I hear ya about the looks. We'll definitely get fancy in future designs  We're starting with the standard and pushing pure performance and quality. It's wildly well built and gorgeous (from a workmanship pov) lol

3080Ti should be a beast! We'll see what AMD can do in the GPU arena. And Intel (not holding my breath there). We need to get on the NVIDIA inside track so we can have a block ready to go on launch day. 

Our CPU cold plate design is made to handle way more heat than the current chips are putting out. And in a much smaller area. For example, our AMD block has over 15% more surface area than the top Threadripper block on the market. We were expecting Intel to be beyond 14nm+++++ by now, but that's how it goes. Really, the TIM or solder is the barrier to performance for the chips, but that's a known factor. They should make CPUs all bare die, like GPUs. But that's wishful thinking.


----------



## newls1

skupples said:


> because you're overreacting.
> 
> and as to the GPU block. I completely agree. I'll jump on board with the next round of GPUs. All issues perceived or otherwise should be ironed out by then.


overracting.... please ... Take your ass kissing somewhere else


----------



## skupples

no sir, I will not. I prefer your scent. 

people overreact when their set expectations are not met. You expected the standard block setup, they didn't deliver it, you raged. 

my snip from earlier applies quite well. It doesn't matter if the "missing" hardware is effective or not. the user base is used to it, expects it, and will continue to demand it until a proper solution is met. We expect things to be overbuilt to the max, so an underbuilt solution is definitely quite mind boggling. I get why you raged, but it was still an overreaction. You posted as if They came to your home, & sharted right on your wife's chest. When in reality, your preset expectations were not met. Likely due to lack of research? Or does Optimus obfuscate the fact their mounting kit is so lean?

(PS : WAS THIS ENOUGH BROWN NOSE TO GET FREE STUFF OPTIMUS? IF NOT I'MA CALL THE PRESIDENT!) farking joke. I don't even ass kiss for raises.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> no sir, I will not. I prefer your scent.
> 
> 
> 
> people overreact when their set expectations are not met. You expected the standard block setup, they didn't deliver it, you raged.
> 
> 
> 
> my snip from earlier applies quite well. It doesn't matter if the "missing" hardware is effective or not. the user base is used to it, expects it, and will continue to demand it until a proper solution is met. We expect things to be overbuilt to the max, so an underbuilt solution is definitely quite mind boggling. I get why you raged, but it was still an overreaction. You posted as if They came to your home, & sharted right on your wife's chest. When in reality, your preset expectations were not met. Likely due to lack of research? Or does Optimus obfuscate the fact their mounting kit is so lean?
> 
> 
> 
> .




This is the internet sir! Your logic has no place here.


----------



## newls1

skupples said:


> no sir, I will not. I prefer your scent.
> 
> people overreact when their set expectations are not met. You expected the standard block setup, they didn't deliver it, you raged.
> 
> my snip from earlier applies quite well. It doesn't matter if the "missing" hardware is effective or not. the user base is used to it, expects it, and will continue to demand it until a proper solution is met. We expect things to be overbuilt to the max, so an underbuilt solution is definitely quite mind boggling. I get why you raged, but it was still an overreaction. You posted as if They came to your home, & sharted right on your wife's chest. When in reality, your preset expectations were not met. Likely due to lack of research? Or does Optimus obfuscate the fact their mounting kit is so lean?
> 
> (PS : WAS THIS ENOUGH BROWN NOSE TO GET FREE STUFF OPTIMUS? IF NOT I'MA CALL THE PRESIDENT!) farking joke. I don't even ass kiss for raises.



President wont help, he cant even run a country properly. You own this block? you want to tell me you would tighten aluminum nuts with no washer to protect motherboard? that is freaking crazy. for the 5cents fiber washers cost, at MINIMUM that should be included. It is 45 times past crazy to tighten anything bare to the motherboard. EKWB saved the day though, their mounting fits this block and can retain the EKWB backplate that ships WITH THEIR BLOCK. Just sayin


----------



## Optimus WC

Just to chime in quickly for anyone following this:

-All our hardware is anodized so it's not electrically conductive
-Our hardware is sized so it doesn't touch anything sensitive on the back of the mobo per AMD and Intel spec
-We have more spread out pressure on the motherboard holes than the pressure between the case standoffs and motherboard screws
-Our system is similar to what's used in GPUs
-Not sure when CPU mounting got so wildly over complicated. But GPU and monoblock mounting is straight forward and a better model, we think


----------



## skupples

you seem to intentionally misunderstand me, so there's no point in continuing, and no. I don't own any of their products yet, as I'm still doing my due diligence. I figure their 3080ti block will be my first acquisition.

take a deep breath, high blood pressure drastically shortens lifespan


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Dang how did the fake news man get involved in a cpu mount :kookoo:


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> you seem to intentionally misunderstand me, so there's no point in continuing, and no. I don't own any of their products yet, as I'm still doing my due diligence. I figure their 3080ti block will be my first acquisition.
> 
> take a deep breath, high blood pressure drastically shortens lifespan


Smart decision. Best to stop that topic. Its better for everyone here. Focus back on the product itself.



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Dang how did the fake news man get involved in a cpu mount /forum/images/smilies/kookoo.gif


Someone started ranting. Its ok though as enuthiast can take things too serious. If it was real life conversation, other side would go quiet and thus ranter would know time to pull back, walk away or change topic if was friend.


----------



## newls1

skupples said:


> you seem to intentionally misunderstand me, so there's no point in continuing, and no. I don't own any of their products yet, as I'm still doing my due diligence. I figure their 3080ti block will be my first acquisition.
> 
> take a deep breath, high blood pressure drastically shortens lifespan


ill take that advice  ... as a medic and firefighter, i know all about high bp



Optimus WC said:


> Just to chime in quickly for anyone following this:
> 
> -All our hardware is anodized so it's not electrically conductive
> -Our hardware is sized so it doesn't touch anything sensitive on the back of the mobo per AMD and Intel spec
> -We have more spread out pressure on the motherboard holes than the pressure between the case standoffs and motherboard screws
> -Our system is similar to what's used in GPUs
> -Not sure when CPU mounting got so wildly over complicated. But GPU and monoblock mounting is straight forward and a better model, we think


that is fantastic and all, but.............. you arent understanding my point of view here, so ill try to explain this again: this mounting setup requires you to use an aluminium threaded nut, placed DIRECTLY on the pcb itself with NO fiber washer or equivalent in between the motherboard and nut itself.. this WILLLLLLLLLLLL either immediately or eventually not end well for the motherboard. Im not talking about it digging thru to a pcb "trace" right off the bat, but someone at sometime WILLLLLLLL scratch the living ***** out of their expensive motherboard and it will do damage. How can someone not see this? 

anodized or not, that is still electrically conductive. Ive arc'd many many many of "Anodized cased" amps on power wires before, so i have no idea why you would say this. Your mounting hardware is so skinny i find it extremely hard to believe you have great "spread pressure" as you say. You are really trying hard to promote and standup for this TERRIBLE mounting design, but the people will see what im talking about when they take delivery of their own blocks and see it in person... really is a joke. You might have a good performing block (and being that means your mounting style "works" but it can be made better and really needs to be.


----------



## Keith Myers

Have you actually tried to install your mount studs and nuts in the motherboard I ask? How can the motherboard get scratched when the part does not turn? I simply held the nut on the tip of my finger and threaded the stud into the nut. The nut was never rotated, only the stud. The stud outer diameter is only touching the PCB fiberglass substrate exposed by the hole.

Here is a quick Google definition of whether anodized aluminum is electrically conductive.



> ALUMINUM ANODIZING. Aluminum Anodizing is an electrochemical process that creates a thin aluminum oxide film on the surface of aluminum substrates. The resulting anodized film is electrically non-conductive, protects the aluminum against corrosion and is resistant to wear.


If you don't believe this, use the leads of a multimeter on the resistance ranges and see if you can detect any low resistance or the ability to conduct electricity. You will read nothing but infinite resistance, the characteristic of an insulator.


----------



## skupples

just think, releasing a traditional mounting kit would allow more marketing bullet points!


----------



## ryan92084

Chill with the snark and politics please.




Optimus WC said:


> Hey there,
> We're happy to take the block back. You can return it, exchange, we'll send out new stuff, etc. We're all PC builders here, Optimus came from wanting to make great product. And provide great service the kind we've always wanted
> 
> ...snip
> -The only reason companies still go with springs is because people complain or seem to think there is only one way to mount. After all GPUs are bare die with no springs.
> -We feel springless mounting is the best way to go. It allows much cleaner application of pressure.
> -And back plates aren't really needed. You can easily apply plenty of pressure correctly with our system. Plastic backplates simply bend. Metal ones add more risk than they're worth. PCBs are thick, this has never been a problem for us or anyone who doesn't use backplates.
> -After all, GPUs don't use backplates, monoblocks don't use backplates. Of course, they bottom out, ours doesn't. But this isn't an issue as long as someone doesn't over tighten to the extreme.
> -The only reason this AMD backplate issue is even coming up is because the AM4 socket is really bad and AMD includes the backplate for their stock cooler, unlike intel.
> 
> snip...


Nothing wrong with going for a new approach but...

Some GPUs do have springs even if not necessarily the standard type one would think of.
Again some GPUs do include a backplate sometimes even functioning as a spring (fury x).
AMD has been including a back plate in the motherboard specs since socket A? nothing to do with the cooler.


----------



## skupples

can we clarify GPU back plates.

most folks put back plates on their GPUs when tossing a block on them, are we then referring to the X brackets you see on some cards?


----------



## jfrob75

*Optimus Foundation WB installed*

So I received my new Power Color Liquid Devil graphic card today, so drained my system to install the new CPU WB and graphics card. I initially attempted to determine if I could use the Corsair WB mounting for the Optimus Foundation but decided not try it, may have worked but just not wanting any additional aggravation. The mounting studs for the Optimus are not ideal but seemed to get the job done. When I mounted the WB and secured it with the knurled nuts I was very carefull not apply to much torque to them and worked diagonally in my tightening sequence.


My Prime95 small FFT temps before install, with ambient at about 22 C, I had CPU Tdie (avg) at 88.8, CCD1 max 89.5, CCD2 max 85, CPU package max 88 and CPU max 77


My Prime95 small FFT temps after install, with ambient at about 26 C, I had CPU Tdie (avg) at 88.8, CCD1 max 89.8, CCD2 max 85.3, CPU package max 88 and CPU max 77


So, my take away from these temps is this new block probably lowers the temps by about 4 C, since I believe their is a linear relationship between ambient temp CPU temps.


Thoughts?


----------



## ryan92084

skupples said:


> can we clarify GPU back plates.
> 
> most folks put back plates on their GPUs when tossing a block on them, are we then referring to the X brackets you see on some cards?


Since the term was being used to compare them to a CPU backplate I'm assuming the small metal bracket style used to spread the load not the full cover heat trap bling.


----------



## Optimus WC

Responses for future Optimus users  We're a new company and a small company, so we don't want misinformation out there about our products or watercooling in general. 

First, there are no electrical contacts on the mounting areas on motherboards. It's in the AMD and Intel socket specs.

Second, thumb screws, standoffs and thumb nuts won't scratch the PCB. Springs will really dig in, hence the washers. Our thumb nuts and standoffs are smooth. I've sat here this afternoon trying to scratch the motherboard with our mounting in any meaningful way, and I can't. Only going crazy with a Knipex could you possibly do damage. 

Third, if all of this were true, then GPU coolers and motherboard screws would destroy PCBs. But they don't. Some holes are reinforced, many are not. Some have washers in unusual areas with electrical traces, others don't. Some have tiny springs and thermal pads, etc. But normal screws are used all the time and motherboards and GPUs work great.

Fourth, we feel our current method provides a stronger, more stable mount. Washers slip, springs compress, plastics wiggle. Really, the typical mounting leaves much to be desired. Our full metal mount is super stable. Putting squish on the socket will just make mounting pressure less even. If anything, I'd like to include a tiny bottle of good ol' blue 242 

Five, washers are a PITA and makes mounting harder. And we want to make watercooling easier. Especially if they simply aren't needed.

Finally, we're more than happy to switch to a provably better solution. We've used everything and we feel this is stronger and faster than the old school method. Just because everyone uses washers and springs doesn't mean that's the right way. Just because everyone uses thick fins that are easy to make and cheap electroplated nickel that flakes and extruded acrylic that cracks and cheap o-rings with plasticizer and painted fittings that disintegrate and steel jet plates that cause galvanic corrosion and CNCs with mixed metals that make copper magnetic doesn't mean we're going to do the same.



jfrob75 said:


> So, my take away from these temps is this new block probably lowers the temps by about 4 C, since I believe their is a linear relationship between ambient temp CPU temps.
> 
> 
> Thoughts?


New block is our Optimus block, right? 4c sounds correct


----------



## skupples

o.o! magnetized blocks. now that's a new one for my eyes. i guess it would make fallen screws easier to find though!


----------



## newls1

Optimus WC said:


> Responses for future Optimus users  We're a new company and a small company, so we don't want misinformation out there about our products or watercooling in general.
> 
> First, there are no electrical contacts on the mounting areas on motherboards. It's in the AMD and Intel socket specs.
> 
> Second, thumb screws, standoffs and thumb nuts won't scratch the PCB. Springs will really dig in, hence the washers. Our thumb nuts and standoffs are smooth. I've sat here this afternoon trying to scratch the motherboard with our mounting in any meaningful way, and I can't. Only going crazy with a Knipex could you possibly do damage.
> 
> Third, if all of this were true, then GPU coolers and motherboard screws would destroy PCBs. But they don't. Some holes are reinforced, many are not. Some have washers in unusual areas with electrical traces, others don't. Some have tiny springs and thermal pads, etc. But normal screws are used all the time and motherboards and GPUs work great.
> 
> Fourth, we feel our current method provides a stronger, more stable mount. Washers slip, springs compress, plastics wiggle. Really, the typical mounting leaves much to be desired. Our full metal mount is super stable. Putting squish on the socket will just make mounting pressure less even. If anything, I'd like to include a tiny bottle of good ol' blue 242
> 
> Five, washers are a PITA and makes mounting harder. And we want to make watercooling easier. Especially if they simply aren't needed.
> 
> Finally, we're more than happy to switch to a provably better solution. We've used everything and we feel this is stronger and faster than the old school method. Just because everyone uses washers and springs doesn't mean that's the right way. Just because everyone uses thick fins that are easy to make and cheap electroplated nickel that flakes and extruded acrylic that cracks and cheap o-rings with plasticizer and painted fittings that disintegrate and steel jet plates that cause galvanic corrosion and CNCs with mixed metals that make copper magnetic doesn't mean we're going to do the same.


'
you keep repeating yourself and it is not an optimal way to mount. i REALLY HOPE NO ONE SCRATCHES THE CRAP OUT OF A 400$ + MOTHERBOARD and want you to pay for it. People that dont see this as an issue, or either to naive to know any better, or just dont have any common sense. Its obvious, this thread has turned into a market ploy for you, and i feel that i got my point accross with how bad this mount system is. Time to send this block to a youtuber to get the word WAY OUT to the peoples'. Thanks!


----------



## shiokarai

newls1 said:


> '
> you keep repeating yourself and it is not an optimal way to mount. i REALLY HOPE NO ONE SCRATCHES THE CRAP OUT OF A 400$ + MOTHERBOARD and want you to pay for it. People that dont see this as an issue, or either to naive to know any better, or just dont have any common sense. Its obvious, this thread has turned into a market ploy for you, and i feel that i got my point accross with how bad this mount system is. Time to send this block to a youtuber to get the word WAY OUT to the peoples'. Thanks!


Have you actually installed the block? Stop with the ranting, we know what you think already, we want to know about the block not your hurt feelings.


----------



## newls1

Optimus Cooling..... Let me start off with this: let me apologize for coming off in a bad sense. I probably shouldn't have, and a piss poor attitude on my part will never accomplish anything. I recieved a txt message from the "company" wanting this block to do a youtube review of it as i was sending them mine, but they said they will be purchasing their own to get the full experience. I will then have this block installed with all my new "stuff" this upcoming week and will see whats up. Not that this matters, but i swear im not a prick or in anyway ttrying to shame you guys, but I still will not be using your method of mounting. Your block appears to be of fantastic quality and this heatplate looks amazing.... i will say that. If in the future you offer an alternative way of mounting, i'd sure like to get my hands on it to try out.


----------



## gupsterg

Optimus WC said:


> Definitely. The AM4 needs a redesign. Threadripper is solid, but these cpus pull out way too easily. We've used a number of AM4 blocks and they almost all create suction, which causes the CPU to pull out when dismounting the block.
> 
> Also, because the clamping system clamps onto the pins, it seems like it's easy to damage the pins with any waterblock that creates good contact.


In this post near the end is my first thoughts on the optimus block, so please do bare that in mind  .

PGA socket doesn't clamp as such on pins. It's more like held in place by the number of pins slid into the contacts. In spoiler is an image I found of AM4 socket without cover, ignore the red circle as this is someone's photo for another purpose.



Spoiler














The contacts in a pin hole are like a V. The CPU pin initially sits in the open part of the V and as lever is pushed down, CPU pins slide into the contacts, CPU is held in by contact "clasping" force. As the force is not great, it's the reason you can just pull the CPU from the socket with a cooling solution. IMO damage to pins does not occur from the "clasping" action of contacts, damage to pins IMO in the main occurs from inadvertent uneven pull from CPU socket.

As much as I like the Threadripper socket it too has a flaw.

I've owned 2 X399 boards, 3 TR CPUs and 2 blocks, unmounted/mounted blocks several times, so I don't class my self as a noob. I didn't go at all heavy hand with tightening block, I did as I normally do, evenly doing up each mount screw in a "criss-cross". I suddenly heard a pop and and stud came out from socket.

This issue occurred with the simple mount screw method of Bykski block, it can't occur from the EK block. The EK block does not have enough thread on screw to reach end of stud, the Bykski on the other hand does.



Spoiler












The CPU IHS has TIM spread by plastic card across all of it, strangely the lower half came away with block and top stayed on CPU.



I agree that mounting holes for cooling solution on motherboard don't have traces to be damaged. As a potential buyer I would though prefer some kind of washer/protection between board and mounting solution, on both sides of mount hole TBH if something is making contact with board.

I used to think that the spring loaded mounts of say the EK AM4/sTR4 blocks I have, weren't something to be required on a block. I used to think the simpler method of the Bykski block was better.

Recently I have begun to think spring loaded mount system is good. You see the photo of the AM4 socket I attached to post is where someone on HardOCP forum managed to destroy a socket from bad mount of cooling solution. Even things like screw thread length has a potential for causing issues, example being my incident with Bykski block and X399.

As much as I agree that someone water cooling / enthusiast who builds their own PC would/should be aware what to do, I reckon though a product needs to be made as fool proof as possible.

Any how thank you for taking the time to post and interact. It is a product I am still interested and may purchase in the future.


----------



## ryan92084

Optimus WC said:


> Definitely. The AM4 needs a redesign. Threadripper is solid, but these cpus pull out way too easily. We've used a number of AM4 blocks and they almost all create suction, which causes the CPU to pull out when dismounting the block.
> 
> Also, because the clamping system clamps onto the pins, it seems like it's easy to damage the pins with any waterblock that creates good contact.


Just twist the block before pulling. Same technique for 20+ years still works.


----------



## skupples

sure, it "works"  

anyone remember how terrified they were the first time they socketed an intel CPU, coming from AMD? O.O! "jesus, I swear i'm gonna break this thing" funniest bit, I just recently realized you're supposed to leave the pin guard in & let the installed CPU push it out.


----------



## gupsterg

Optimus WC said:


> Definitely. The AM4 needs a redesign. Threadripper is solid, but these cpus pull out way too easily. We've used a number of AM4 blocks and they almost all create suction, which causes the CPU to pull out when dismounting the block.
> 
> Also, because the clamping system clamps onto the pins, it seems like it's easy to damage the pins with any waterblock that creates good contact.
> 
> 
> 
> ryan92084 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just twist the block before pulling. Same technique for 20+ years still works.
Click to expand...

When I used use a ThermalRight Archon IB-E X2 I did that. Once I lapped the base I had to be even more careful. Even though I ran the PC up prior to removal of HSF, I still had to warm the HSF with a hairdryer.

With the AM4 EK Supremacy EVO the twist technique isn't unusable; due to the pillars used by mount system. Best way with that I find is undo the thumbscrews, leave it a while and it sorta comes away from the CPU it self.


----------



## Keith Myers

ryan92084 said:


> Just twist the block before pulling. Same technique for 20+ years still works.


But when you have mounting studs that pass through a top mounting plate on the block, that prevents you from twisting the block to break the TIM seal. I try and get what little twist the slop of the mounting holes on the studs allow but I then lever the block off on one side to try and break the seal.

I have only pulled one cpu out of the socket before and that was with a Noctua NH-D15 air cooler. Thankfully it came straight up and I didn't bend or break any pins.

No argument that the PGA socket has flaws. But also advantages as no chance of damaging or destroying a motherboard from a simple mistake of dropping something into a LGA socket with the installation cover removed. Either you get very lucky bending the LGA socket pins back into the correct position or you have to have the socket reballed at a repair facility. Or spring for a new board.


----------



## TK421

How does this block's am4 mounting look like? Flimsy backplate?


----------



## newls1

optimus cooling... did you say you offer studs that will thread into the amd backplate for installation?


----------



## Keith Myers

newls1 said:


> optimus cooling... did you say you offer studs that will thread into the amd backplate for installation?


He did at first, then backed away and said there was not enough room for the studs to clear the backplate posts and the block mount. So out of luck I guess. The current mount system will have to suffice unless you can reconfigure another blocks mounting hardware as commented by others as possible.


----------



## Keith Myers

TK421 said:


> How does this block's am4 mounting look like? Flimsy backplate?


None. As in the stock backplate must be removed and not used.


----------



## TK421

newls1 said:


> optimus cooling... did you say you offer studs that will thread into the amd backplate for installation?





Keith Myers said:


> He did at first, then backed away and said there was not enough room for the studs to clear the backplate posts and the block mount. So out of luck I guess. The current mount system will have to suffice unless you can reconfigure another blocks mounting hardware as commented by others as possible.





Keith Myers said:


> None. As in the stock backplate must be removed and not used.



So is their own backplate actually good?


newls1 said that it's flimsy, which is my main concern with a block costing >$100



The heatkiller one is compatible with virtually all socket is 90 or less and can even be used in Intel sockets by changing mounting hardware :|


----------



## Keith Myers

TK421 said:


> So is their own backplate actually good?
> 
> 
> newls1 said that it's flimsy, which is my main concern with a block costing >$100
> 
> 
> 
> The heatkiller one is compatible with virtually all socket is 90 or less and can even be used in Intel sockets by changing mounting hardware :|


No, as I meant no backplate is provided nor can one be used. Of any kind or type from any manufacturer. The mounting is direct to the motherboard.

If you feel you must need a backplate for any reason, this block is NOT for you.


----------



## Keith Myers

I sized up the mounting hardware from my XSPC Raystorm Pro block and it will not work with insufficient clearance between the bottom of the block bracket and the motherboard top surface. Maybe some other vendors block mounting hardware will fit. Others will have to chime in on that possibility.


----------



## Section31

I decided to do an realbench 2.43 run for 15min (non-avx) and my results was max temp of 75 degrees. Water temps reached 30degrees. Satisfied with the results though i cant compare with anything else.

Only result i have to compare with is the 7920x score at 4.6ghz. The 7920x was hitting past 85 degrees (i set cpu to throttle at 85). Inline with the results i was expecting (10degrees drop compared to amd ryzen)


----------



## TK421

Keith Myers said:


> No, as I meant no backplate is provided nor can one be used. Of any kind or type from any manufacturer. The mounting is direct to the motherboard.
> 
> If you feel you must need a backplate for any reason, this block is NOT for you.





Keith Myers said:


> I sized up the mounting hardware from my XSPC Raystorm Pro block and it will not work with insufficient clearance between the bottom of the block bracket and the motherboard top surface. Maybe some other vendors block mounting hardware will fit. Others will have to chime in on that possibility.





So if it doesn't use a backplate, how does the block mount?


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey everyone, to summarize the points covered earlier:

-Our blocks are performing 3-8c better than competing blocks (depending on AMD, Intel, CPU, mobo, etc etc etc)
-Our fin area is massive -- surface area is 15%+ larger than the best performing threadripper block. Our upcoming threadripper is 3.5X bigger
-The Optimus Foundation block comes with a streamlined mounting for AMD and Intel blocks using only our US-made billet and anodized posts, thumb nuts and thumb screws
-Our testing finds that no back plate is necessary and our post and thumb screw system works very well to create a strong and stable mount for the block. Better pressure = better performance
-There are zero issues with using our mount. It's used all the time on AMD and Intel mobos and this style is used for GPUs, monoblocks and motherboard mounts
-For our original Signature V1 that we released 2 years ago, we used the traditional mount w/ springs and backplate. And while fine, it wasn't perfect. Springs and washers would slip and create uneven pressure
-The streamlined mounting now allows you to dial in the exact pressure you want across all posts without the wiggle of springs or washers
-Of course, if you would like washers, we can send you out some, just let us know
-We can't use the stock AMD backplate because of the height of the standoffs sticking through the mobo don't allow enough room for our block to compress
-AMD's AM4 socket leaves much to be desired. Here's hoping they go to an LGA design for AM4


----------



## Hale59

Optimus WC said:


> ...
> 
> -Our blocks are performing 3-8c better than competing blocks (depending on AMD, Intel, CPU, mobo, etc etc etc)...


What competing blocks? Names please. Where are the reviews, (etc etc etc)?


----------



## newls1

TK421 said:


> So is their own backplate actually good?
> 
> 
> *newls1 said that it's flimsy, which is my main concern with a block costing >$100*
> 
> 
> 
> The heatkiller one is compatible with virtually all socket is 90 or less and can even be used in Intel sockets by changing mounting hardware :|


how could i have said their backplate is flimsy when they dont even include such hardware? might want to go back and re-read my typings. If anyone wants to know, it appears that the EK backplate and mounting hardware will work with this block but cant be 100% sure untill i get home and can do some hands on. I have have 24hrs left on this 48hr shift.. let you know monday. I was hoping the heatkiller mounting studs and factory backplate would have worked, but the heatkiller mounting hardware is MUCH thicker and beefier and WILL NOT fit through the little mounting holes on the mounting plate for this foundation block... SAD, cause heatkillers stuff is really nice


----------



## TK421

Optimus WC said:


> Hey everyone, to summarize the points covered earlier:
> 
> -Our blocks are performing 3-8c better than competing blocks (depending on AMD, Intel, CPU, mobo, etc etc etc)
> -Our fin area is massive -- surface area is 15%+ larger than the best performing threadripper block. Our upcoming threadripper is 3.5X bigger
> -The Optimus Foundation block comes with a streamlined mounting for AMD and Intel blocks using only our US-made billet and anodized posts, thumb nuts and thumb screws
> -Our testing finds that no back plate is necessary and our post and thumb screw system works very well to create a strong and stable mount for the block. Better pressure = better performance
> -There are zero issues with using our mount. It's used all the time on AMD and Intel mobos and this style is used for GPUs, monoblocks and motherboard mounts
> -For our original Signature V1 that we released 2 years ago, we used the traditional mount w/ springs and backplate. And while fine, it wasn't perfect. Springs and washers would slip and create uneven pressure
> -The streamlined mounting now allows you to dial in the exact pressure you want across all posts without the wiggle of springs or washers
> -Of course, if you would like washers, we can send you out some, just let us know
> -We can't use the stock AMD backplate because of the height of the standoffs sticking through the mobo don't allow enough room for our block to compress
> -AMD's AM4 socket leaves much to be desired. Here's hoping they go to an LGA design for AM4





newls1 said:


> how could i have said their backplate is flimsy when they dont even include such hardware? might want to go back and re-read my typings. If anyone wants to know, it appears that the EK backplate and mounting hardware will work with this block but cant be 100% sure untill i get home and can do some hands on. I have have 24hrs left on this 48hr shift.. let you know monday. I was hoping the heatkiller mounting studs and factory backplate would have worked, but the heatkiller mounting hardware is MUCH thicker and beefier and WILL NOT fit through the little mounting holes on the mounting plate for this foundation block... SAD, cause heatkillers stuff is really nice





So wait, how does the block mount without a backplate then?


Screws secured with nuts on the other end of motherboard?


----------



## ThrashZone

TK421 said:


> So wait, how does the block mount without a backplate then?
> 
> 
> Screws secured with nuts on the other end of motherboard?


Hi,
You miss this ?


----------



## newls1

TK421 said:


> So wait, how does the block mount without a backplate then?
> 
> 
> Screws secured with nuts on the other end of motherboard?


yup, wonderful isnt it...... also, no fiber washer is provided to go between metal nut and motherboard, but they say its ok because its anodized and will absolutely NOT move or twist while threading the block tight and will not scratch pcb of motherboard..... i swear, just read the past 6 pages or so...


----------



## oreonutz

gupsterg said:


> In this post near the end is my first thoughts on the optimus block, so please do bare that in mind  .
> 
> PGA socket doesn't clamp as such on pins. It's more like held in place by the number of pins slid into the contacts. In spoiler is an image I found of AM4 socket without cover, ignore the red circle as this is someone's photo for another purpose.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 311848
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The contacts in a pin hole are like a V. The CPU pin initially sits in the open part of the V and as lever is pushed down, CPU pins slide into the contacts, CPU is held in by contact "clasping" force. As the force is not great, it's the reason you can just pull the CPU from the socket with a cooling solution. IMO damage to pins does not occur from the "clasping" action of contacts, damage to pins IMO in the main occurs from inadvertent uneven pull from CPU socket.
> 
> As much as I like the Threadripper socket it too has a flaw.
> 
> I've owned 2 X399 boards, 3 TR CPUs and 2 blocks, unmounted/mounted blocks several times, so I don't class my self as a noob. I didn't go at all heavy hand with tightening block, I did as I normally do, evenly doing up each mount screw in a "criss-cross". I suddenly heard a pop and and stud came out from socket.
> 
> This issue occurred with the simple mount screw method of Bykski block, it can't occur from the EK block. The EK block does not have enough thread on screw to reach end of stud, the Bykski on the other hand does.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 311850
> 
> 
> The CPU IHS has TIM spread by plastic card across all of it, strangely the lower half came away with block and top stayed on CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree that mounting holes for cooling solution on motherboard don't have traces to be damaged. As a potential buyer I would though prefer some kind of washer/protection between board and mounting solution, on both sides of mount hole TBH if something is making contact with board.
> 
> I used to think that the spring loaded mounts of say the EK AM4/sTR4 blocks I have, weren't something to be required on a block. I used to think the simpler method of the Bykski block was better.
> 
> Recently I have begun to think spring loaded mount system is good. You see the photo of the AM4 socket I attached to post is where someone on HardOCP forum managed to destroy a socket from bad mount of cooling solution. Even things like screw thread length has a potential for causing issues, example being my incident with Bykski block and X399.
> 
> As much as I agree that someone water cooling / enthusiast who builds their own PC would/should be aware what to do, I reckon though a product needs to be made as fool proof as possible.
> 
> Any how thank you for taking the time to post and interact. It is a product I am still interested and may purchase in the future.


I agree 100 Percent with this sentiment.

I am this close to purchasing this block myself. I feel the Price is fair for my new 3950x if the design of the finstack and block are going to give me even better coverage and contact with the IHS and allow more heat to be disipated into my loop. I only pause because of all the concern about the mounting hardware. I currently use a Alphacool Eisblock on my 3900x, but was too lazy to pull off the mounting hardware for my EK Block, so I used the Intel Bracket on the EisBlock, and then used the EK AMD Mounting Bracket and the EK Mounting hardware, and it worked perfectly. I am wondering if something similar is possible with the Optimus block.


----------



## newls1

oreonutz said:


> I agree 100 Percent with this sentiment.
> 
> I am this close to purchasing this block myself. I feel the Price is fair for my new 3950x if the design of the finstack and block are going to give me even better coverage and contact with the IHS and allow more heat to be disipated into my loop. I only pause because of all the concern about the mounting hardware. I currently use a Alphacool Eisblock on my 3900x, but was too lazy to pull off the mounting hardware for my EK Block, so I used the Intel Bracket on the EisBlock, and then used the EK AMD Mounting Bracket and the EK Mounting hardware, and it worked perfectly. I am wondering if something similar is possible with the Optimus block.
> 
> Also, the only other concern I had is that the Picture on the Optimus Block's Website that shows the Zen 2 Chiplets Coverage, has it oriented the incorrect way. It shows the IO Die on top and the 2 Chiplets Below, when really, once mounted in the Motherboard, the IO Die is On the Left, and the 2 Chiplets are on the right, and it looks like with this design it would be difficult to rotate the mount 90 degrees. I know that they will still be fully covered, but wouldn't it be ideal for the inlet to be above the io Die and the Outlet to be centered above the 2 Chiplets, like in the picture provided by Optimus?


EK backplate and hardware should work here.


----------



## oreonutz

newls1 said:


> EK backplate and hardware should work here.


Good News.

EDIT: It turns out my following statement was incorrect, I was mistaken. I apologize.

Do you have any opinion or insight into the way way they orient the block over the chip? It seems to me that the picture they show on their website with the Inlet above the IO Die, and the Outlet centered between the 2 Chiplets would be optimal for flow, however once the chip is mounted inside the Motherboard its rotated 90 degrees, so in reality the Inlet would be directly in between the IO Die and the Chiplets on Top, and then again directly in between both on bottom for the Outlet. I am wondering if this would not be as optimal as what they depict as the flow in that picture?


----------



## newls1

oreonutz said:


> Good News.
> 
> Do you have any opinion or insight into the way way they orient the block over the chip? It seems to me that the picture they show on their website with the Inlet above the IO Die, and the Outlet centered between the 2 Chiplets would be optimal for flow, however once the chip is mounted inside the Motherboard its rotated 90 degrees, so in reality the Inlet would be directly in between the IO Die and the Chiplets on Top, and then again directly in between both on bottom for the Outlet. I am wondering if this would not be as optimal as what they depict as the flow in that picture?


would love to know the answer to this as well.......


----------



## oreonutz

newls1 said:


> would love to know the answer to this as well.......


Hopefully @Optimus WC can elaborate when he has a minute. I definitely appreciate the willingness to engage with us. I seriously will buy the block, I am happy with my current block, but am always in the pursuit of lowering temps, so if this does this, I will happily fork out the money. But because there seems to be no independent reviews for Zen 2 (2 Chiplet) Cpu's, having engagement with the company will at least help to inform my purchasing decision.

Also, because we all know More RGB, especially aRGB gives us more FPS in all of our favorite games, I am wondering if they are releasing an RGB Block as well. Its possible I just missed it, but I didn't notice it for sale on PPC.


----------



## skupples

yep, I'm curious about the reviews as well. Wondering if they've deployed a different philosophy, or just haven't gotten around to it yet. 

I'm sure all the usual YT suspects would review it if sent samples.


----------



## MarkPost

oreonutz said:


> I agree 100 Percent with this sentiment.
> 
> I am this close to purchasing this block myself. I feel the Price is fair for my new 3950x if the design of the finstack and block are going to give me even better coverage and contact with the IHS and allow more heat to be disipated into my loop. I only pause because of all the concern about the mounting hardware. I currently use a Alphacool Eisblock on my 3900x, but was too lazy to pull off the mounting hardware for my EK Block, so I used the Intel Bracket on the EisBlock, and then used the EK AMD Mounting Bracket and the EK Mounting hardware, and it worked perfectly. I am wondering if something similar is possible with the Optimus block.
> 
> Also, the only other concern I had is that the Picture on the Optimus Block's Website that shows the Zen 2 Chiplets Coverage, has it oriented the incorrect way. It shows the IO Die on top and the 2 Chiplets Below, when really, once mounted in the Motherboard, the IO Die is On the Left, and the 2 Chiplets are on the right, and it looks like with this design it would be difficult to rotate the mount 90 degrees. I know that they will still be fully covered, but wouldn't it be ideal for the inlet to be above the io Die and the Outlet to be centered above the 2 Chiplets, like in the picture provided by Optimus?


Ryzen 3xxx looks like this once installed: IO, on top; chiplets, below


----------



## newls1

MarkPost said:


> Ryzen 3xxx looks like this once installed: IO, on top; chiplets, below


this block has the inlet going dead center, then 1/2 water stream will go UP, and 1/2 water stream DOWN... atleast that is what it looks like to me. Should be AWESOME performance wise


----------



## oreonutz

MarkPost said:


> Ryzen 3xxx looks like this once installed: IO, on top; chiplets, below


Hmmm, I could have sworn it was rotated 90, but I could be wrong. If so, my bad.


EDIT: Crap, My Bad. No wonder no one else brought up this point. I just pulled up my research on the topic, and I remembered Incorrectly, you are correct, and so is the Optimus Foundations picture on their site. 

Well I think that clears up both of my Worries. Looks like I am putting my money where my mouth is and picking one up. Now to see if I can find me an RGB Version, or if I am going to have to add a strip to it myself...

Once I buy it, I will mount it with my EK Hardware, and do some testing and see if I do indeed get my temps even lower. Will post my results if anyone is interested. Testing CPU's is part of my job, have a lab dedicated to it. Like to keep my data as accurate as possible.


----------



## skupples

aren't the chiplets vertical when you're looking at the processor head on? then you get the pyramid after rotating to socket.


----------



## ThrashZone

newls1 said:


> this block has the inlet going dead center, then 1/2 water stream will go UP, and 1/2 water stream DOWN... atleast that is what it looks like to me. Should be AWESOME performance wise


Hi,
Most blocks do this and is not doing all that good for the new 3k amd die design.
Works great for Intel single die though.


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> aren't the chiplets vertical when you're looking at the processor head on? then you get the pyramid after rotating to socket.


Yup. I was incorrect originally. I stand Corrected. I think I got confused because of an article I was reading from Igor's Lab had it in the IO Die on the Left, Chiplet Die's on the Right Config, and I guess my brain Assumed that this thermal imaging was done in the socket. When in actuality, I just went back, and the thermal imaging was actually taken from Wikipedia, which I didn't notice the first time. Pulled up my research on the topic, and turns out, it is in the Pyramid Orientation once Mounted, I was wrong, am going to go back and edit my original posts on the subject. My bad, my intent is definitely not cause misinformation.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, to answer questions in bulk:

PROFESSIONAL REVIEWS: 
We're currently working crazy hours to get products out the door right now. So we'll be pushing reviews after:
1) We can handle the sales. We're a small/new company, so we need to scale a bit before Jay or Linus drop a nuke on us
2) We have EU distribution set up. Lots of fans over there, but customs and shipping is brutal, so we want to make sure they're taken care of
3) We finish our full lineup of product. So Threadripper 3 block and GPU block shipping to customers
4) Our marketing guy has time to reach out to reviewers because he's spending like 14 hours a day on forums and emails answering questions. Pity him. And him is me.

USER REVIEWS:
1) 



2) https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/dw15lm/optimus_pc_foundation_cpu_block_yes_please/
3) 5.0 on 12 core intel: https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/de1p7y/50_on_all_12_cores_courtesy_of_optimus_pc/
4) This forum from Section31 and Kevin. 
5) Other customers that the marketing guy will need more time to dig up

DIE LAYOUT:
1) The important detail to note is our cold plate covers all the chiplets and more. Like I mentioned previously, the surface area of our regular AM4 block is massive, so any amount of concentrated heat -- from one chiplet, two chiplets, single intel beastlet, etc. -- doesn't matter, it's easily wicked away
2) The Foundation block top and cold plate can be rotated any direction. You want to try goofy, go for it. 
3) We designed it this way because of the changes to the AMD dies, etc. So you can try it different ways.
4) I believe the IHS text is just "Ryzen" rotated because AMD does that on everything? 
5) Does it matter? Yes and no and yes and no. People seem to get 4c+ in any orientation. In the video above, he got 6.5c improvement goofy on intel. With the IHS, the orientation matters less than it would if it were bare die. The heat spreads through the IHS and then through our cold plate. Our fin stack is so fine and the cold plate is so thin, we're able to wick off massive amounts of heat regardless of orientation. 
6) When our engineers finish with GPU and Threadripper, they'll revisit Foundation AM4 (it was released before the 3950x came out) with lots of chip samples and mobos to give a more detailed answer for when orientation really matters.
7) Once we have a really detailed understanding, we'll probably release a Signature AM4 block. 

MOUNTING:
1) We feel the backplate isn't needed. Look at the pictures in my previous post. Everyone uses our new streamlined mounting and it works great with excellent performance numbers. No destroyed motherboards, no crazy scratches, etc. That's just unfounded speculation and disinformation. 
2) We will send out washers if you really, really want them. We feel they make the mounting worse. 
3) AM4 motherboards aren't made any differently than Intel motherboards. Or any other mobo on the planet. What works logically for everything else works for AM4. You don't need to use the stock AMD backplate. Really. 

RGBS:
1) We're too busy focusing on, ya know, performance and quality to even think about the blink blinks 
2) if you really want RGBs, the small LED strips available for mod can be easily stuck to our blocks. It looks cool. 
3) We prob won't do RGBs for a long time. There are 100% tradeoffs in engineering for adding RGBs. The little LED holes will leak (this isn't speculation). And stuffing in LED slots and whatnot cause compromises to structural integrity. We spend 0% of our time thinking about RGBs, guaranteed!


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> RGBS:
> 
> 1) We're too busy focusing on, ya know, performance and quality to even think about the blink blinks
> 
> 2) if you really want RGBs, the small LED strips available for mod can be easily stuck to our blocks. It looks cool.
> 
> 3) We prob won't do RGBs for a long time. There are 100% tradeoffs in engineering for adding RGBs. The little LED holes will leak (this isn't speculation). And stuffing in LED slots and whatnot cause compromises to structural integrity. We spend 0% of our time thinking about RGBs, guaranteed!




So happy to hear this. The trend of RGB needs to die a quick and painful death.


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, to answer questions in bulk:
> 
> PROFESSIONAL REVIEWS:
> We're currently working crazy hours to get products out the door right now. So we'll be pushing reviews after:
> 1) We can handle the sales. We're a small/new company, so we need to scale a bit before Jay or Linus drop a nuke on us
> 2) We have EU distribution set up. Lots of fans over there, but customs and shipping is brutal, so we want to make sure they're taken care of
> 3) We finish our full lineup of product. So Threadripper 3 block and GPU block shipping to customers
> 4) Our marketing guy has time to reach out to reviewers because he's spending like 14 hours a day on forums and emails answering questions. Pity him. And him is me.
> 
> USER REVIEWS:
> 1) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxBknBlpOJM&feature=youtu.be&t=579
> 2) https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/dw15lm/optimus_pc_foundation_cpu_block_yes_please/
> 3) 5.0 on 12 core intel: https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/de1p7y/50_on_all_12_cores_courtesy_of_optimus_pc/
> 4) This forum from Section31 and Kevin.
> 5) Other customers that the marketing guy will need more time to dig up
> 
> DIE LAYOUT:
> 1) The important detail to note is our cold plate covers all the chiplets and more. Like I mentioned previously, the surface area of our regular AM4 block is massive, so any amount of concentrated heat -- from one chiplet, two chiplets, single intel beastlet, etc. -- doesn't matter, it's easily wicked away
> 2) The Foundation block top and cold plate can be rotated any direction. You want to try goofy, go for it.
> 3) We designed it this way because of the changes to the AMD dies, etc. So you can try it different ways.
> 4) I believe the IHS text is just "Ryzen" rotated because AMD does that on everything?
> 5) Does it matter? Yes and no and yes and no. People seem to get 4c+ in any orientation. In the video above, he got 6.5c improvement goofy on intel. With the IHS, the orientation matters less than it would if it were bare die. The heat spreads through the IHS and then through our cold plate. Our fin stack is so fine and the cold plate is so thin, we're able to wick off massive amounts of heat regardless of orientation.
> 6) When our engineers finish with GPU and Threadripper, they'll revisit Foundation AM4 (it was released before the 3950x came out) with lots of chip samples and mobos to give a more detailed answer for when orientation really matters.
> 7) Once we have a really detailed understanding, we'll probably release a Signature AM4 block.
> 
> MOUNTING:
> 1) We feel the backplate isn't needed. Look at the pictures in my previous post. Everyone uses our new streamlined mounting and it works great with excellent performance numbers. No destroyed motherboards, no crazy scratches, etc. That's just unfounded speculation and disinformation.
> 2) We will send out washers if you really, really want them. We feel they make the mounting worse.
> 3) AM4 motherboards aren't made any differently than Intel motherboards. Or any other mobo on the planet. What works logically for everything else works for AM4. You don't need to use the stock AMD backplate. Really.
> 
> RGBS:
> 1) We're too busy focusing on, ya know, performance and quality to even think about the blink blinks
> 2) if you really want RGBs, the small LED strips available for mod can be easily stuck to our blocks. It looks cool.
> 3) We prob won't do RGBs for a long time. There are 100% tradeoffs in engineering for adding RGBs. The little LED holes will leak (this isn't speculation). And stuffing in LED slots and whatnot cause compromises to structural integrity. We spend 0% of our time thinking about RGBs, guaranteed!


I really do appreciate your detailed explanation. I apologize for being incorrect on the orientation of the Chiplets, you are correct about the orientation.

I respect your choice to spend 100 Percent of your R&D on perfecting Performance and not the RGB's. I have recently gotten sucked into the RGB craze after being against it for so long, and I noticed you had a Plexi Block, and I saw the picture you posted had the block lit up (or at least it appears to), so I assumed their was an RGB Version out there. But no problem I can add it myself if I really want it. You could probably do the same thing Alphacool does without changing any of your design elements, and add RGB. They simply just have a Frame for sale, it goes around the block and has RGB inside of it that shines through the Plexi and Satin Blocks, this approach would probably be perfect for your Blocks as well, and will allow you to sell an addon that you will probably sell a lot of.

Do you have a Review you can point us to where someone used your Block on a 3900x or 3950x specifically?

Sorry, I will leave you alone now. About to purchase one from PPC.


----------



## Optimus WC

oreonutz said:


> I really do appreciate your detailed explanation. I apologize for being incorrect on the orientation of the Chiplets, you are correct about the orientation.
> 
> I respect your choice to spend 100 Percent of your R&D on perfecting Performance and not the RGB's. I have recently gotten sucked into the crazy, and I noticed you had a Plexi Block, and I saw the picture you posted had the block lit up, so I assumed their was an RGB Version out there. But no problem I can add it myself if I really want it. You could probably do the same thing Alphacool does without changing any of your design elements, and add RGB. They simply just have a Ring for sale, it goes around the block and has RGB inside of it that shines through the Plexi and Satin Blocks, this approach would probably be perfect for your Blocks as well, and will allow you to sell an add on that you will probably sell a lot of.
> 
> Do you have a Review you can point us to where someone used your Block on a 3900x or 3950x specifically?
> 
> Sorry, I will leave you alone now. About to purchase one from PPC.


Awesome  And good point about the ring, that sounds like the right solution. But can't think about it until we have everything else shipping 

For user reviews:

*"As a guess, from the temps I am seeing now, I will achieve the 5-6° that Optimus says they see in their tests."* from here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/11-...ii-overclocking-thread-1052.html#post28236042

*"The upgrade is 3-4degrees it appears. They have screenshots how 3900X performed on there test bench. I could get similar results after disabling asus bios enhance performance to default. I did notice the flow rate for the block was much better than the heatkiller, it went up by 0.9-1 L/min."* https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-7.html#post28226818

*"...So, my take away from these temps is this new block probably lowers the temps by about 4 C..."* https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-17.html#post28236704


USER BENCHMARK FROM REDDIT: https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/dw15lm/optimus_pc_foundation_cpu_block_yes_please/

_[–]WolfOfDeribasovskaya

1 point 3 days ago 
I believe you already received it. How do you like the performance?

permalinkembedsavereportgive awardreply

[–]nhuynh50

[+2] 1 point 3 days ago 
it's stellar. The full coverage of the chiplets on the Ryzen 3900X definitely makes a difference vs corsair xc7 and ekwb velocity (which were the roughly the same performance).

permalinkembedsaveparentreportgive awardreply

[–]WolfOfDeribasovskaya

1 point 3 days ago 
Do you have any data? Let's say EK vs Optimus?
Thank you in advance

permalinkembedsaveparentreportgive awardreply

[–]nhuynh50

[+2] 1 point 3 days ago 
*It's been some time since I had my EK block in the system but I would say I see a ~3-5c (sometimes even higher) difference in all workloads as well as idle.* I use liquid metal on the IHS with all three blocks and have Asus performance enhancement set to level 3 (OC) which drives up heat even more. Furthermore I am running a pretty beefy three rad setup so your mileage may vary.

permalinkembedsaveparentreportgive awardreply_


ANOTHER USER BENCHMARK (Section31 from this forum. He ran into a bent pin issue on the 3900x): https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/desrvb/am4_block_comparison/

[–]SellerSection31

 3 points 12 days ago 
Did more testing. The Optimus does out perform the Heatkiller on 3700x by about 4degrees.

Optimus: 58-61

Heatkiller: 63-65

Noctua U12A: 66-70


----------



## oreonutz

Does Anyone know if there is supposed to be a performance difference between the Pure Copper and Pro-XE Nickel Versions of the Block? Wondering what the benefit would be over picking one over the other. I would assume if their is any difference at all the Pure Copper one would come out on top by maybe .1c or so, but the Pro-XE one is more expensive (which I guess makes sense because you have to plate the Copper) but I am just wondering if there is some other reason as to why I would want to pick the Pro-XE other than Aesthetics?


----------



## Optimus WC

oreonutz said:


> Does Anyone know if there is supposed to be a performance difference between the Pure Copper and Pro-XE Nickel Versions of the Block? Wondering what the benefit would be over picking one over the other. I would assume if their is any difference at all the Pure Copper one would come out on top by maybe .1c or so, but the Pro-XE one is more expensive (which I guess makes sense because you have to plate the Copper) but I am just wondering if there is some other reason as to why I would want to pick the Pro-XE other than Aesthetics?


I know the answer  

Pure copper is the best theoretical performance, but you'll only notice it in extreme situations. I don't think we've tested the difference on AM4 blocks. 

Our Pro-XE nickel is extremely fine, so the performance difference is a lot less than typical nickel plating. 

The reason for Pro-XE Nickel is for extreme corrosion resistance (no crazy flaking with our products) and for liquid metal. If you use LM, you should use our nickel coldplate.


----------



## newls1

how could a thin FIBER washer make mounting worse, please explain. let me insert a pic...


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Awesome  And good point about the ring, that sounds like the right solution. But can't think about it until we have everything else shipping
> 
> For user reviews:
> 
> *"As a guess, from the temps I am seeing now, I will achieve the 5-6° that Optimus says they see in their tests."* from here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/11-...ii-overclocking-thread-1052.html#post28236042
> 
> *"The upgrade is 3-4degrees it appears. They have screenshots how 3900X performed on there test bench. I could get similar results after disabling asus bios enhance performance to default. I did notice the flow rate for the block was much better than the heatkiller, it went up by 0.9-1 L/min."* https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-7.html#post28226818
> 
> *"...So, my take away from these temps is this new block probably lowers the temps by about 4 C..."* https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-17.html#post28236704
> 
> 
> Here's from reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/dw15lm/optimus_pc_foundation_cpu_block_yes_please/
> 
> _[–]WolfOfDeribasovskaya
> 
> 1 point 3 days ago
> I believe you already received it. How do you like the performance?
> 
> permalinkembedsavereportgive awardreply
> 
> [–]nhuynh50
> 
> [+2] 1 point 3 days ago
> it's stellar. The full coverage of the chiplets on the Ryzen 3900X definitely makes a difference vs corsair xc7 and ekwb velocity (which were the roughly the same performance).
> 
> permalinkembedsaveparentreportgive awardreply
> 
> [–]WolfOfDeribasovskaya
> 
> 1 point 3 days ago
> Do you have any data? Let's say EK vs Optimus?
> Thank you in advance
> 
> permalinkembedsaveparentreportgive awardreply
> 
> [–]nhuynh50
> 
> [+2] 1 point 3 days ago
> *It's been some time since I had my EK block in the system but I would say I see a ~3-5c (sometimes even higher) difference in all workloads as well as idle.* I use liquid metal on the IHS with all three blocks and have Asus performance enhancement set to level 3 (OC) which drives up heat even more. Furthermore I am running a pretty beefy three rad setup so your mileage may vary.
> 
> permalinkembedsaveparentreportgive awardreply_




Sweet! I really appreciate that.

Ok one last question, then I swear to god I will shut up. Well 2 questions really, but I kind of already asked one before posting this. But might as well ask you directly.

I noticed on your website that there is a Pure Copper Plate Finish, and a Pro-XE Nickel Plate Finish, is there any reason other than aesthetics why someone would want to pick one over the other? EDIT: I just read your answer on your other post. Thank you that answers this question!

and 2) I notice you have mentioned a few times being a small company and rushing to meet the demand. If I was to Order directly from your website, is there a wait time before you would ship the Block? I live in Las Vegas, NV, I assume you are shipping out of Chicago. If I ordered Right now, I know today is Sunday, so Would the Block be Shipped out tomorrow, or would I have to wait a while before you shipped it out?

And Sorry, I promise I will leave you alone now. I appreciate your help!


----------



## Optimus WC

oreonutz said:


> Sweet! I really appreciate that.
> 
> Ok one last question, then I swear to god I will shut up. Well 2 questions really, but I kind of already asked one before posting this. But might as well ask you directly.
> 
> I noticed on your website that there is a Pure Copper Plate Finish, and a Pro-XE Nickel Plate Finish, is there any reason other than aesthetics why someone would want to pick one over the other?
> 
> and 2) I notice you have mentioned a few times being a small company and rushing to meet the demand. If I was to Order directly from your website, is there a wait time before you would ship the Block? I live in Las Vegas, NV, I assume you are shipping out of Chicago. If I ordered Right now, I know today is Sunday, so Would the Block be Shipped out tomorrow, or would I have to wait a while before you shipped it out?
> 
> And Sorry, I promise I will leave you alone now. I appreciate your help!


No prob, and happy to talk about the blocks, it's my favorite thing to talk about lol  

Answered the nickel/copper question above, while you were typing. 

For shipping, yes, we should ship out tomorrow since I believe everything is in stock, but not 100%. We make everything here, so we try to make new parts quickly if they go out of stock. Send a followup on our website and that'll go to the right person to check on your order


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> No prob, and happy to talk about the blocks, it's my favorite thing to talk about lol
> 
> Answered the nickel/copper question above, while you were typing.
> 
> For shipping, yes, we should ship out tomorrow since I believe everything is in stock, but not 100%. We make everything here, so we try to make new parts quickly if they go out of stock. Send a followup on our website and that'll go to the right person to check on your order


OK, Thank You Sir! You just made a sale! I am ordering from your site as we speak. My Name is Matthew. Make sure your Business Partners/Employers (Not sure of your position within the company) know you just made a sale, and were extremely helpful!


----------



## Optimus WC

Re: washer materials, worth experimenting, though doubtful there is any measurable performance difference. No washers is easiest.


----------



## Shawnb99

Are there plans for dual pumps/reservoirs and will you be releasing fittings in other sizes? 
Any plans to make radiators as well?


----------



## Optimus WC

oreonutz said:


> OK, Thank You Sir! You just made a sale! I am ordering from your site as we speak. My Name is Matthew. Make sure your Business Partners/Employers (Not sure of your position within the company) know you just made a sale, and were extremely helpful!


Awesome, glad to hear it  Enjoy the block and let us know how it goes!

And I'll be sure to tell my boss, but he's kinda a jerk, making me work constantly, on weekends, etc. I need a better boss. Well, my boss is me, so that'll be tricky


----------



## newls1

Optimus WC said:


> Re: washer materials, worth experimenting, though doubtful there is any measurable performance difference. No washers is easiest.


who cares about "easiest" surely we care 1st and foremost about the safety of our expensive motherboards (you know, from scratches that you say wont happen from metal direct to pcb contact) pretty sure at minimum fiber washers should be included.. you can thank me later for helping you point this out


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> Are there plans for dual pumps/reservoirs and will you be releasing fittings in other sizes?
> Any plans to make radiators as well?


We will make a dual D5 pump/res, but that's a bit off. GPUs, Threadripper, more fittings, etc. first  

For fittings, 12mm metric hardlines will prob be end of this month. Then 16mm and 14mm. And then more flex in early next year. 

We are going to make a radiator, but it's prob our most ambitious project. We're super excited about it, but it may take a while, really hard to say since it's so complex. It's one of those "it's ready when it's ready" things.


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Awesome, glad to hear it  Enjoy the block and let us know how it goes!
> 
> And I'll be sure to tell my boss, but he's kinda a jerk, making me work constantly, on weekends, etc. I need a better boss. Well, my boss is me, so that'll be tricky


HAHAHA! I had a feeling. Most companies do not engage as much as you have unless they have a personal stake in the Product/Company. We really appreciate your dedication.

Your Mounting Mechanism may be perfectly fine, but there are a LOT of Enthusiasts who are stuck in their way's for better or for worse. I am not saying its right or wrong, but I have the same reservations as @newls1 . I have other mounting hardware so thats why I went ahead and ordered them anyway, I will probably test with both, and will mount it on an Extra Crosshair VI Board I have with your mounting mechanism to see if damaging the board is something that I am likely to do. 

But that said. Because there are a lot of us out here stuck in our ways, its going to be hard to convince a lot of us, that at the very least we do not need washers. It may be a prudent move on your part to just include the washers by default to help quash these concerns head on. You can add in your Directions that these washers are optional, and say that you don't believe they are necessary, but at least this way it will be there for those of us who want them, and then pretty much the only push back I have seen about this block disappears. Might be something to consider. 

Regardless, It looks like you are making an amazing product, and I can not WAIT to mount it to my new 3950x. The 3950x is due to arrive to my house on Tuesday Night, I am hoping paying for that 1 day Priority shipping will allow me to receive the Block on the same night, and then the testing can commence!

Appreciate your help again! And give yourself a raise my friend! LOL!


----------



## Section31

Also note i found testing factor to take into account is AMD Chipset Drivers. Windows update installed the latest Aegesa update and that basically decreased performance of my CPU in cinebench. I noticed it because the Soc voltage is 1.038 vs maxiumum of 1.10 prior


----------



## skupples

i prefer the old school method of RGB anyways. provide holes to glue in your own, or have none at all


----------



## oreonutz

Section31 said:


> Also note i found testing factor to take into account is AMD Chipset Drivers. Windows update installed the latest Aegesa update and that basically decreased performance of my CPU in cinebench. I noticed it because the Soc voltage is 1.038 vs maxiumum of 1.10 prior


Good Advice!

All My Test Systems are set to use my WSUS Server for Updates. This way I 100 Percent Control which updates, if any get installed, and When. If I don't approve updates, they simply do not get installed, even on Windows 10 Home Systems (although I run all Pro or Enterprise). 

But, each Chipset and Agesa Release has effected the Default behavior and voltages of Ryzen, so when Comparing Data between tests, you HAVE to make Sure they were ALL run under Identical Conditions, and that includes Agesa Version, Chipset Version, Software Installed, Literally everything about the system. This is the only way to get data that you can depend on to be as accurate as possible.


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> Good Advice!
> 
> All My Test Systems are set to use my WSUS Server for Updates. This way I 100 Percent Control which updates, if any get installed, and When. If I don't approve updates, they simply do not get installed, even on Windows 10 Home Systems (although I run all Pro or Enterprise).
> 
> But, each Chipset and Agesa Release has effected the Default behavior and voltages of Ryzen, so when Comparing Data between tests, you HAVE to make Sure they were ALL run under Identical Conditions, and that includes Agesa Version, Chipset Version, Software Installed, Literally everything about the system. This is the only way to get data that you can depend on to be as accurate as possible.


Hopefully AMD settles down the update. Every Update is wild card. I tried to stay on Agesa 1.03ABBA as long as possible as it was perfect.


----------



## skupples

i decided to get in line now, instead of later.

copper/copper/plexi

definitely didn't think about the obscene volume increase a "jay or linus" review would cause. J has like 8m subs, Linus has like 10m


----------



## newls1

oreonutz said:


> Good Advice!
> 
> All My Test Systems are set to use my WSUS Server for Updates. This way I 100 Percent Control which updates, if any get installed, and When. If I don't approve updates, they simply do not get installed, even on Windows 10 Home Systems (although I run all Pro or Enterprise).
> 
> But, each Chipset and Agesa Release has effected the Default behavior and voltages of Ryzen, so when Comparing Data between tests, you HAVE to make Sure they were ALL run under Identical Conditions, and that includes Agesa Version, Chipset Version, Software Installed, Literally everything about the system. This is the only way to get data that you can depend on to be as accurate as possible.


how can you tell windows which update server to use? i would like to have control over the updates


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> i decided to get in line now, instead of later.
> 
> copper/copper/plexi
> 
> definitely didn't think about the obscene volume increase a "jay or linus" review would cause. J has like 8m subs, Linus has like 10m



Hell Yeah! I also Picked up mine! Which Chip are you throwing it on? EDIT: Never mind @skupples forget I asked such a stupid question. I just realized you bought a 2080ti Block, not a CPU Block.... Kind of already answers the question of what you are mounting it to doesn't it? You know what, I guess I could rephrase the question to save face... Yeah, lets do that. Which 2080ti Are you putting it on? There we go, that makes more sense huh? lol...



Spoiler

















newls1 said:


> how can you tell windows which update server to use? i would like to have control over the updates


So You Have to setup WSUS inside Windows Server. I can walk you through doing this, but for the sake of not taking up an entire page, this is a high level over view, that is the best way to do it if you don't want a separate box. Simply Install Windows Server 2016 (If you go with 2016 you don't even have to license it if you don't mind a watermark) inside of a VM. You can use VMware Workstation Pro, Hyper V, or Virtual Box inside of your Main Workstation Rig that you want to control updates on. Or You can install Server 2016 on a dedicated box if you want. Then Install the WSUS (Windows Server Update Service) Role on Server. Configure it out how you like. Then on Your Windows 10 Machine, open up the Run Dialog and put in GPEdit.MSC. Go To Computer Configuration/Admin Template/Windows Components/Windows Update and open the "Specify Intranet Microsoft Update Service Location" policy. In all 3 Boxes Enter in the Location to your WSUS Server. So for instance, if you installed Server 2016 in a VM, Make sure you assigned a Static on your Local Network for the Server, lets say your you assigned "192.168.1.10" as your Static for the Server. In all 3 Fields in the Policy I mentioned, you are going to put "http://192.168.1.10:8530". Reboot you Windows Workstation, and you are good to go. Now inside the Windows Server VM, you set it up to receive Windows 10 Updates, you tell it when to sync to Microsoft to pull down updates, and then you approve or deny them for any Workstation that is configured to use this WSUS Server. If you never approve another Update, then your workstation will never download another update.

It does get a bit more involved to set this up perfectly, but that is basically exactly what you do. If you need further help in setting it up, email me at [email protected] and I will walk you through it in my spare time.


----------



## newls1

oreonutz said:


> Hell Yeah! I also Picked up mine! Which Chip are you throwing it on? EDIT: Never mind @skupples forget I asked such a stupid question. I just realized you bought a 2080ti Block, not a CPU Block.... Kind of already answers the question of what you are mounting it to doesn't it? You know what, I guess I could rephrase the question to save face... Yeah, lets do that. Which 2080ti Are you putting it on? There we go, that makes more sense huh? lol...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So You Have to setup WSUS inside Windows Server. I can walk you through doing this, but for the sake of not taking up an entire page, this is a high level over view, that is the best way to do it if you don't want a separate box. Simply Install Windows Server 2016 (If you go with 2016 you don't even have to license it if you don't mind a watermark) inside of a VM. You can use VMware Workstation Pro, Hyper V, or Virtual Box inside of your Main Workstation Rig that you want to control updates on. Or You can install Server 2016 on a dedicated box if you want. Then Install the WSUS (Windows Server Update Service) Role on Server. Configure it out how you like. Then on Your Windows 10 Machine, open up the Run Dialog and put in GPEdit.MSC. Go To Computer Configuration/Admin Template/Windows Components/Windows Update and open the "Specify Intranet Microsoft Update Service Location" policy. In all 3 Boxes Enter in the Location to your WSUS Server. So for instance, if you installed Server 2016 in a VM, Make sure you assigned a Static on your Local Network for the Server, lets say your you assigned "192.168.1.10" as your Static for the Server. In all 3 Fields in the Policy I mentioned, you are going to put "http://192.168.1.10:8530". Reboot you Windows Workstation, and you are good to go. Now inside the Windows Server VM, you set it up to receive Windows 10 Updates, you tell it when to sync to Microsoft to pull down updates, and then you approve or deny them for any Workstation that is configured to use this WSUS Server. If you never approve another Update, then your workstation will never download another update.
> 
> It does get a bit more involved to set this up perfectly, but that is basically exactly what you do. If you need further help in setting it up, email me at [email protected] and I will walk you through it in my spare time.



this is the best post in this entire thread! thank you very much


----------



## oreonutz

newls1 said:


> this is the best post in this entire thread! thank you very much


Hey Appreciate it man! And you are very welcome! Personally I think any one who tests Hardware for a living on Windows should have a WSUS Server setup to control for Windows Updates, its a huge Variable. And for everyone else, Microsoft Telling you when to update your machine, and controlling the entire process is a Joke. I know why they did it, but if we want to accept the risk of not updating our machines until we want to, we should be able to. Luckily, WSUS has been around since since XP, it might have even been around before that, but XP is when I got into the business, so its the first time I remember using it, Server 2003.

Anyways, definitely take advantage of it, you will love it. And the cool this is you only need to fire up the Server VM whenever you want to update, if configured correctly, Windows will not update even when it can't reach your WSUS server, its how I setup mine when I used to run mine in a VM. I still do run it in a VM, but on a dedicated Server now, but its all the same principle. Let me know if you need any pointers!

PS. I don't know if you ever heard of FireArt.com . The guy who runs it is my neighbor and one of my clients. Something tells me from your Profile Picture you will like his art. Just figured I would mention it.


----------



## TK421

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You miss this ?





newls1 said:


> yup, wonderful isnt it...... also, no fiber washer is provided to go between metal nut and motherboard, but they say its ok because its anodized and will absolutely NOT move or twist while threading the block tight and will not scratch pcb of motherboard..... i swear, just read the past 6 pages or so...





Oops, missed it. Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## Keith Myers

newls1 said:


> would love to know the answer to this as well.......


I posted my drawing of the actual mounted cpu in a motherboard earlier showing die locations and chip registration corner triangle. Will repeat.


----------



## skupples

its going on this evga reference board.


----------



## Shawnb99

Damn DHL delivering on a Sunday. Step out for 10 minutes and of course I miss the delivery.


----------



## Keith Myers

> Also, because we all know More RGB, especially aRGB gives us more FPS in all of our favorite games, I am wondering if they are releasing an RGB Block as well. Its possible I just missed it, but I didn't notice it for sale on PPC.


I'm fairly certain you are being facetious and silly . . . . . but just in case . . . . I am thrilled that Optimus has decided to not inflict RGB on their product lines. I buy hardware for the performance and not how it looks. I follow the mantra of "form follows function". If the build quality and design leads to a beautiful product simply because of the use of expensive materials and production quality, I won't argue.


----------



## Keith Myers

MarkPost said:


> Ryzen 3xxx looks like this once installed: IO, on top; chiplets, below


Rotate your image 90° clockwise to orient the cpu as installed in the socket.


----------



## Keith Myers

Shawnb99 said:


> So happy to hear this. The trend of RGB needs to die a quick and painful death.


+100


----------



## newls1

Keith Myers said:


> I'm fairly certain you are being facetious and silly . . . . . but just in case . . . . I am thrilled that Optimus has decided to not inflict RGB on their product lines. I buy hardware for the performance and not how it looks. I follow the mantra of "form follows function". If the build quality and design leads to a beautiful product simply because of the use of expensive materials and production quality, I won't argue.


exactly.. damn rgb crap has our pc's looking like honda civics with dubz on them


----------



## oreonutz

Keith Myers said:


> I'm fairly certain you are being facetious and silly . . . . . but just in case . . . . I am thrilled that Optimus has decided to not inflict RGB on their product lines. I buy hardware for the performance and not how it looks. I follow the mantra of "form follows function". If the build quality and design leads to a beautiful product simply because of the use of expensive materials and production quality, I won't argue.





newls1 said:


> exactly.. damn rgb crap has our pc's looking like honda civics with dubz on them


LOL! I was definitely being facetious. I also would have probably bought the RGB add on if they had it, lol. Can't help it, I like pretty lights! LOL!

That said I also am 100% believer in function over form, and that Form should follow function, so I love that Optimus is only concerned with making a quality product that performs. I will worry about making it light up if I really need it to do that, but the block looks damn gorgeous on its own and I can't wait for it to get here.

I hate how RGB has become this buzz word to sell products, and how a company can make the same product with worse materials but slap some lights in it and sell it at a higher price. Its ridiculous, so thats what I hate about the RGB craze. However, at the same time, when a product follows Function, I still enjoy modding and adding my own bling to make it pop just a little more. And I am not talking about Rainbow Puke, I am talking about being able to light up a product a specific color to make my build follow a theme, its never 100 percent necessary, and it can be way over done, but when done properly, it can be awesome to look at. That said, no RGB can be damn glorious sometimes too, so it really just depends on what the builder is going for. And always always always, aesthetics is the last consideration, I will never do something for the sake of aesthetics if it in anyway harms the performance of my build, but if it has no effect on performance, and I find it more pleasing to look at, then I will probably do it.


----------



## skupples

sky way bridge is even aRGB blinged out now 

its nice to provide the user an up sell if they want the lights, like EK does/used to do w. holes in their blocks on the non RGB models.


----------



## Keith Myers

My computers run out of sight, out of mind. I often find that I haven't rebooted them for over a month. Don't need no silly lights, they just have to run 24/7 without any intervention.


----------



## skupples

I agreed. My STH10 always ends up with the window to the wall for some reason, even though I have it laser etched with a giant classy Star Citizen emblem, with LEDs tapped into the side. They haven't been wired since i proved it worked.


----------



## Shawnb99

Just got my block. Damn this thing is heavy

Also look springs!


----------



## Shawnb99

Did I get the ultra flat one? My invoice doesn’t list it being that model.

Order #OP1162

I think I got the wrong block. [emoji30]


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> Did I get the ultra flat one? My invoice doesn’t list it being that model.
> 
> Order #OP1162
> 
> I think I got the wrong block. [emoji30]


You're running bare die, right? That's the right one  The flat version is really only needed for lapped IHS. The Signature was designed for bare die from the beginning. There are some brackets that cause issues, so you got the correct block. 

Let me know how it goes!


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> You're running bare die, right? That's the right one  The flat version is really only needed for lapped IHS. The Signature was designed for bare die from the beginning. There are some brackets that cause issues, so you got the correct block.
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know how it goes!




Well I paid for the Ultra flat one so it’s not what I ordered. 
Kinda confusing since the Ultra flat is called the bare die model.

I’m using the Rockit cool bracket, has this been know to cause issues or is one of thes that doesn’t, never got an answer on that.

If the normal one is meant for bare die over the ultra flat I’ll keep what I have them but would like a refund for the rest of what I paid. 
I hope I don’t lose out with the exchange rate like I did on the refund of my first order, lost $28 from that.


----------



## oreonutz

Keith Myers said:


> My computers run out of sight, out of mind. I often find that I haven't rebooted them for over a month. Don't need no silly lights, they just have to run 24/7 without any intervention.


I 100 Percent understand this, this is EXACTLY how I have ALWAYS Been. Literally 24 Years of Building PC's, and Aesthetics never entered the Picture for me, at ALL until about 4 Years ago. I still concern myself with the way things perform first and foremost now, but I think what changed was when I started watching Youtube. I used to Yell at my Screen when I would see Paul and Kyle Rip someone Build apart on Pimp My PC when the Build was a damn good performer and just didn't look good, or had "Ketchup and Mushroom Cables". But I think watching that **** for 4 years straight has corrupted me. And Now I find myself making builds that would rival some of theirs... So Yeah, I still 100 Percent get where you are coming from. Your computers are doing real work, they are built for that purpose, you are not building them to have something pretty to look at, and you aren't making it some kind of center piece in the room, so what the hell is the point? My Server is the same way, although its about to get replaced with a 3900x Build that will actually look pretty nice, just no RGB, but I guess its become just an extra thing for me to consider when Building a PC, not RGB per say, just making it look good. But it depends what its for. If its for a client that needs a Specialized System for his Architectural Firm, and it will be up on a Desk where Clients will see it, well then I will ask if he wants me to spruce it up and make it look nice to impress clients, but if its a system thats going to be sitting in the Server room, or Under a desk and it just needs to be able to Edit and Render 8k Video, then the entire Budget is getting dumped into performance and thats it.

Anyways, I 100 Percent respect your philosophy because it has always been my own, and still largely is, I just have become corrupted over the last few years...


----------



## MoDeNa

I received the Optimus Foundation from PPCs last week and mines did not bring springs. I would suggest the designers and marketing people from this company to consider the following points from my humble point of view:

- Include washers to protect motherboard and also block parts when installed
- Include springs (some people are receiving them)
- Use backplate (it can be the one provided with AMD motherboards) to spread tension when installing the block and avoid damage to the socket and motherboard
- Protect the waterblock from dirt, dust and moisture with plastic wrap until final user receive it (mine came with slight scratches on top and some dust)
- It could be a version with nickel/copper top instead of acrylic or acetal

Many thanks.


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> Well I paid for the Ultra flat one so it’s not what I ordered.
> Kinda confusing since the Ultra flat is called the bare die model.
> 
> I’m using the Rockit cool bracket, has this been know to cause issues or is one of thes that doesn’t, never got an answer on that.
> 
> If the normal one is meant for bare die over the ultra flat I’ll keep what I have them but would like a refund for the rest of what I paid.
> I hope I don’t lose out with the exchange rate like I did on the refund of my first order, lost $28 from that.


If he doesn't answer on this thread, try sending him a direct message on OCN, he has answered me on their when I had questions, pretty timely, even though its Sunday, so I am sure he would answer yours as well.


----------



## skupples

some people are receiving springs? 

seems strange, since Mr. 1 man show doesn't like em.

oi vey, they've gotta up hill battle with this stuff. 

folks are never gonna get over the back plate bit. springs? personally annoy me, n I'd bet most people over ratchet them. you don't need the pressure of a 1,000 suns between the block and chip.

and really, the best back plate is a socket matching dynatron 1u blower cooler


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> Well I paid for the Ultra flat one so it’s not what I ordered.
> Kinda confusing since the Ultra flat is called the bare die model.
> 
> I’m using the Rockit cool bracket, has this been know to cause issues or is one of thes that doesn’t, never got an answer on that.
> 
> If the normal one is meant for bare die over the ultra flat I’ll keep what I have them but would like a refund for the rest of what I paid.
> I hope I don’t lose out with the exchange rate like I did on the refund of my first order, lost $28 from that.


Definitely confusing, sorry about that!!

Yes, the one you received is optimiized for bare die. The Ultra Flat is made for lapped IHS. 

The confusion was my fault. The Signature is made for both bare die and regular IHS. Only people with lapped IHS (or rockitcool replacement IHS) need the flat version. I triple checked with the engineering Big Brain and what you have is the best for bare die. 

Depending on what Intel does in the future, we might make our own full bare die solution. The block you have (Aka standard Signature) will work with all bare die brackets. The ultra flat does not because the brackets aren't necessarily made with the correct heights. The Signature has a die-sized convex area to mate perfectly regardless of die frame. Otherwise, the block won't make contact with the die. 

Re: refunds, we refunded the difference between the two already. Not sure about exchange rate, accounting will look into that and do whatever is needed.


----------



## Optimus WC

Lots of confusion going on here  

The springs he received are for the Intel Signature block.

The Foundation blocks do not come with springs.


----------



## skupples

i'd recommend a parts included list for each product page. simple, & clean, at the top, before all the HTML5 marketing slides. under the final selection, maybe.


----------



## Shawnb99

My block is the Intel Signature one so maybe that’s's why I got springs and others with AMD didn't.
Also got washers and a backplate


----------



## Optimus WC

Hahaha (Most Interesting Man)

Yeah we'll be discontinuing the springs on the Signature blocks in the future. The springs compress fully, making them not springs. We originally had people complaining about the V1 being too springy, and not providing enough pressure. That's resolved by both super strong springs (in the V2) and our springless design on the Foundation, which is the best design.


----------



## skupples

i'd still recommend listing the contents of each product's package on the site. seeing as you're going with a non-traditional solution, no BP, no springs... you should have that out there, readily known.

then you can be like "RTFM"(+PR smile)


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> i'd still recommend listing the contents of each product's package on the site. seeing as you're going with a non-traditional solution, no BP, no springs... you should have that out there, readily known.
> 
> then you can be like "RTFM"(+PR smile)


Yeah definitely!! We thought it'd be straight forward for enthusiasts to simply use what's in the box with the instructions in the box. Now I'm going to make a miniseries about mounting.


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> i'd still recommend listing the contents of each product's package on the site. seeing as you're going with a non-traditional solution, no BP, no springs... you should have that out there, readily known.
> 
> then you can be like "RTFM"(+PR smile)


+1

This is definitely the best approach. Also throwing in some Washers being as they are cheap, and you can just raise the cost of the block a few cents to offset it, no one would notice a few cents price increase, and it would shut everyone up who is worried about damaging their board.

I am counting the hours until my Block Arrives!


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> Yeah definitely!! We thought it'd be straight forward for enthusiasts to simply use what's in the box with the instructions in the box. Now I'm going to make a miniseries about mounting.


change is change, enthusiasts or not.

we're all glad you're rolling with the punches.


oreonutz said:


> +1
> 
> 
> I am counting the hours until my Block Arrives!


yeah idk if I saw an ETA for 2080ti block release, but itll be good times.  



I picked up a microsink kit for the back of the card too. the stock backplate is flipping hot, ALWAYS.

ok meat & potato time.


----------



## Section31

Anyways i am done testing mine, it works so leave it as is. Even under asus auto oc but amd 1.0.0.4 did something to my setup. Voltage is sub-optimal or either amd engineers did some magic on improving efficiency.

Till i get an Gigabyte x570 master, 3950x still on wait list and ordered in the nickel xe version of optimus block.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> Optimus WC said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah definitely!! We thought it'd be straight forward for enthusiasts to simply use what's in the box with the instructions in the box. Now I'm going to make a miniseries about mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> change is change, enthusiasts or not.
> 
> we're all glad you're rolling with the punches.
> 
> 
> oreonutz said:
> 
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> 
> I am counting the hours until my Block Arrives!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> yeah idk if I saw an ETA for 2080ti block release, but itll be good times. /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> 
> 
> I picked up a microsink kit for the back of the card too. the stock backplate is flipping hot, ALWAYS.
> 
> ok meat & potato time.
Click to expand...

Tell us your results. This will help when i get to planning 3080ti gpu waterblock.


----------



## skupples

most definitely will. I haven't felt the need to post anything in years, but this one for sure.


----------



## jarcsp

Just ordered mine today from PPCS, I will be replacing the Phanteks Glacier C360A AMD CPU Water Block on my 3950X, I'll be reporting back my findings.
Hopefully will be getting it quickly, DHL Express to AU usually around 3 days so we'll see. Can't wait to get it, really like the design.


----------



## Keith Myers

My computer cases are already stuffed with all the PCIe power cables for four gpus and the motherboard power cables and what few storage cables and all the fans necessary to keep the crunching beasts cool. I certainly don't need frew-frew RGB bling cables adding to the clutter. I don't see any of my crunching cohorts with 6,7,10, or 14 gpu mining chassis adding RGB to their crunching hosts. The added extender-splitter USB cables are a nightmare to manage to begin with. If I was starting out from scratch that would be the basis of my build to begin with. Instead of 17 gpus scattered among 5 normal PC chassis.


----------



## TK421

seems like signature amd version soon?


----------



## newls1

MoDeNa said:


> I received the Optimus Foundation from PPCs last week and mines did not bring springs. I would suggest the designers and marketing people from this company to consider the following points from my humble point of view:
> 
> - Include washers to protect motherboard and also block parts when installed
> - Include springs (some people are receiving them)
> - Use backplate (it can be the one provided with AMD motherboards) to spread tension when installing the block and avoid damage to the socket and motherboard
> - Protect the waterblock from dirt, dust and moisture with plastic wrap until final user receive it (mine came with slight scratches on top and some dust)
> - It could be a version with nickel/copper top instead of acrylic or acetal
> 
> Many thanks.


hmmm, sounds familiar... now that more people are receiving their product, more and more are starting to agree with me


----------



## Section31

The block also makes me respect caselabs design more and more. Unlike the rest of the manufacturers, there modularity expanded a lot more than theres. Even i think there motherboard mounting mechanism is much better. 

I felt the motherboard is much sturdier using caselabs mobo tray (lot less flex). I noticed it whenever i tried to change the cpu block. It was easy to determine the amount of pressure needed to lock the cpu in and the horizontal nature (mercury) or removable nature of the mobotray reduced chances of pulling out the cpu. My respect for caselabs never ends.


----------



## jfrob75

*Water block comparison images*

Here are some pics taken of my Optimus Foundation installed and for comparison the Corsair XC7. Trying to show the difference in fin coverage between the 2 blocks. Also the Optimus, just based on it's weight, has more mass and is rectangular and completely covers the IHS of the CPU.


----------



## Section31

Posting Cinebench Runs (but note thats something up with 1.0.0.4). I am getting scores all over the place. It took me about 6-7 runs before I got that score. Temperature started at 64 degrees and eventually hit 69 after 7 straight runs. However, HWINFO results on cooling seem accurate still. The CPU was running at Max still. Also, one of the CCX Package are running way more hotter than the other so something i need to consider exploring in the future.


----------



## Section31

I will post the 3700X one sometime before Xmas (currently has the heatkiller block in it).


----------



## jfrob75

Section31, Your CCD temperature differences looks pretty typical to me. Looking at your max temp for each I see about 4 C difference, which is about what I see on my 3950X and on my 3900X.


----------



## Section31

Tell us how your scores are. There CPU blocks have quality control issues i heard but perform very descent.

That and i am really interested in 3950x temperatures. I read its cooler than 3900x.


----------



## newls1

Im wanting to lap my 3950x today and was wondering if the base of this watervlock is really flat. Is it a good idea to lap this cpu with this block?


----------



## Hale59

Optimus WC said:


> ...
> 
> MOUNTING:
> 1) We feel the backplate isn't needed. Look at the pictures in my previous post. Everyone uses our new streamlined mounting and it works great with excellent performance numbers. No destroyed motherboards, no crazy scratches, etc. That's just unfounded speculation and disinformation.
> ...


"Our mounting system is designed to deliver precisely the correct mounting pressure as specified by Intel's and AMD's design guidelines. We definitely recommend screwing the nuts all the way down till they hit the stop! When your thermal paste is that adhesive, you should consider using a higher quality thermal paste instead to avoid this problem."
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...fficial-heatkiller-club-415.html#post28239844


----------



## oreonutz

Keith Myers said:


> My computer cases are already stuffed with all the PCIe power cables for four gpus and the motherboard power cables and what few storage cables and all the fans necessary to keep the crunching beasts cool. I certainly don't need frew-frew RGB bling cables adding to the clutter. I don't see any of my crunching cohorts with 6,7,10, or 14 gpu mining chassis adding RGB to their crunching hosts. The added extender-splitter USB cables are a nightmare to manage to begin with. If I was starting out from scratch that would be the basis of my build to begin with. Instead of 17 gpus scattered among 5 normal PC chassis.


Come on Keith, what are you talking about??? Everyone knows that each individual RGB LED that you add to your Rig actually increases your Crunching Power more then adding an additional GPU to your Rig Will. I am surprised a Distinguished, Wise, and Cultured man such as yourself did not know this. In fact, now that you know, you might as well take all those Fans out of your Rig, and Replace them with RGB Strips, Obviously the stunning Glorious Rainbow Field of Ecstacy will have your CPU feeling So amazing, that it won't even need fans to stay cool any more. Its almost 2020 man, come on get on that new Technology before you get left behind!

HAHAHAHA!!!! (How's that for Facetious????)



Section31 said:


> Posting Cinebench Runs (but note thats something up with 1.0.0.4). I am getting scores all over the place. It took me about 6-7 runs before I got that score. Temperature started at 64 degrees and eventually hit 69 after 7 straight runs. However, HWINFO results on cooling seem accurate still. The CPU was running at Max still. Also, one of the CCX Package are running way more hotter than the other so something i need to consider exploring in the future.


Regarding the CCD Difference, yours looks incredibly normal to me. Back when I was on my EK Block I would see a difference as high as 12c between CCD's when Under a Prime 95 Small FFT Load. Now on my Alphacool Eisblock the delta is down to only 4c when under full load. I looked around this forum looking for people with 2 CCD Chips that were posting Screenshots of their HWinfo, and from what I can see about a 3 to 5c Difference is about average. On the 3900x its always CCD 1 thats the hotter one, (I don't know if that has changed on the 3950x), so I think it has something to do with CCD1 in the 3900x always being the Preferred CCD that has the 2 Higher Clocking CCX's, I think because of this it will push these chips harder, I think it even does it when you lock the chip to a set clock speed but keep C-States enabled. 



newls1 said:


> Im wanting to lap my 3950x today and was wondering if the base of this watervlock is really flat. Is it a good idea to lap this cpu with this block?


Sorry Brother I wouldn't bother responding except for I am already posting so I figured I might as well tell you, that I have no fricking Clue, Lol. Its a good question though. I get my 3950x Tomorrow or Tuesday, and I don't know if I could bring myself to lap it. Have you put the new Optimus Block on your 3950x Yet or are you still on your 48 Hour shift?


----------



## skupples

Hale59 said:


> "Our mounting system is designed to deliver precisely the correct mounting pressure as specified by Intel's and AMD's design guidelines. We definitely recommend screwing the nuts all the way down till they hit the stop! When your thermal paste is that adhesive, you should consider using a higher quality thermal paste instead to avoid this problem."
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...fficial-heatkiller-club-415.html#post28239844


and what is intel & AMD's spec? since WCJ didn't link to it? is there a set PSI in their spec? 

I ask because stock intel coolers snap in, with almost no pressure


----------



## Optimus WC

Re: lapping, we don't recommend it right now. The reason is our block is bowed to match the IHS for solid contact. Once the IHS is lapped, then the contact area is reduced. Our Signature Intel is available with a super flat cold plate for lapped IHS, but we haven't done that with AMD yet. Getting GPUs and Threadripper 3 out the door is our focus right now


----------



## newls1

Optimus WC said:


> Re: lapping, we don't recommend it right now. The reason is our block is bowed to match the IHS for solid contact. Once the IHS is lapped, then the contact area is reduced. Our Signature Intel is available with a super flat cold plate for lapped IHS, but we haven't done that with AMD yet. Getting GPUs and Threadripper 3 out the door is our focus right now


That is the answer i was looking for, THANK YOU... Very much appreciate your feedback sir


----------



## Keith Myers

jfrob75 said:


> Here are some pics taken of my Optimus Foundation installed and for comparison the Corsair XC7. Trying to show the difference in fin coverage between the 2 blocks. Also the Optimus, just based on it's weight, has more mass and is rectangular and completely covers the IHS of the CPU.


Thanks for the build pics. Your first image illustrates well that the finstack array of the Foundation block entirely covers the entire length of the cpu IHS as you can see the finstack array reaches all the way to the top and bottom of the AM4 socket. The IHS is just slightly smaller than the AM4 socket. So the Foundation finstack array entirely covers the offset dies positioned at the outside edges of the IHS.



jfrob75 said:


> Section31, Your CCD temperature differences looks pretty typical to me. Looking at your max temp for each I see about 4 C difference, which is about what I see on my 3950X and on my 3900X.


Haven't seen enough reports on the 3950X but all the reports and my experience with the 3900X is that you got one good die and one mediocre die. The good die runs at less voltage and temps and the mediocre die needs more voltage and runs hotter. Just a case of binning as far as I can tell.



oreonutz said:


> Come on Keith, what are you talking about??? Everyone knows that each individual RGB LED that you add to your Rig actually increases your Crunching Power more then adding an additional GPU to your Rig Will. I am surprised a Distinguished, Wise, and Cultured man such as yourself did not know this. In fact, now that you know, you might as well take all those Fans out of your Rig, and Replace them with RGB Strips, Obviously the stunning Glorious Rainbow Field of Ecstacy will have your CPU feeling So amazing, that it won't even need fans to stay cool any more. Its almost 2020 man, come on get on that new Technology before you get left behind!
> 
> HAHAHAHA!!!! (How's that for Facetious????)


 @*oreonutz* Hahaha choice! thanks for that guffaw.


----------



## oreonutz

Keith Myers said:


> @oreonutz Hahaha choice! thanks for that guffaw.


Always happy to be of assistance!


----------



## Section31

Keith Myers said:


> Haven't seen enough reports on the 3950X but all the reports and my experience with the 3900X is that you got one good die and one mediocre die. The good die runs at less voltage and temps and the mediocre die needs more voltage and runs hotter. Just a case of binning as far as I can tell.


Thanks I have not been paying attention to it much. Only reading here have I looked into it. Been occupied setting up the rig and spending time with the wife so really haven't had time to play with OC much.


----------



## skupples

i swear dude said something a few posts back about GPU blocks going out soon (not the most recent one where they say its the current focus) anyone remember if they gave a hint as to when?


----------



## Keith Myers

Section31 said:


> Thanks I have not been paying attention to it much. Only reading here have I looked into it. Been occupied setting up the rig and spending time with the wife so really haven't had time to play with OC much.


I have noticed the hotter temps with increasing the number of cpu tasks by two more and spilling over onto the crippled mediocre die. Previously I had only run the gpu support threads on the crippled die and that does not involve any FFT cpu computation, just shoveling data to the gpus. But I was falling behind in RAC output compared to teammates and I figured I still had enough overhead room to not overcommit the cpu and wanted the increased production. But that produced higher cpu temps as expected. Glad the new Foundation block is handling the extra heat output quite well now.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Interesting results.


----------



## Section31

Keith Myers said:


> I have noticed the hotter temps with increasing the number of cpu tasks by two more and spilling over onto the crippled mediocre die. Previously I had only run the gpu support threads on the crippled die and that does not involve any FFT cpu computation, just shoveling data to the gpus. But I was falling behind in RAC output compared to teammates and I figured I still had enough overhead room to not overcommit the cpu and wanted the increased production. But that produced higher cpu temps as expected. Glad the new Foundation block is handling the extra heat output quite well now.


Thanks. Looks like I will be going ahead with the 3950X order in the end. Going to just sell off the 3900X once the 3950X comes in.


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> i swear dude said something a few posts back about GPU blocks going out soon (not the most recent one where they say its the current focus) anyone remember if they gave a hint as to when?


HINT: This week! 2080Ti blocks in copper mid plates start shipping this week. Nickel midplate blocks will ship the week after, hopefully, depends on plating schedules and holidays. But we're working fast to get it done


----------



## skupples

awesome, thanks.

glad i've always shied away from nickel. EK got me once, during Keplar, and that's it! I keep my STH10 nice & clean, but no one looking inside of it is ever gonna be like "omg dude, why'd you get bare copper instead of nickel plating?" cuz I don't require twitter & reddit points to survive in life.


----------



## GAN77

Jokesterwild said:


> Interesting results.


Tell me, please, the source of information?


----------



## Optimus WC

Jokesterwild said:


> Interesting results.


Though our block is doing well, it might not be making the best contact depending on the die frame. Hard to tell from the info provided. The regular Signature top could have a much better improvement depending on config.



skupples said:


> awesome, thanks.
> 
> glad i've always shied away from nickel. EK got me once, during Keplar, and that's it! I keep my STH10 nice & clean, but no one looking inside of it is ever gonna be like "omg dude, why'd you get bare copper instead of nickel plating?" cuz I don't require twitter & reddit points to survive in life.


Haha!

For nickel, yeah the bad flaky stuff has given a nickel a bad reputation. Anything that flakes (and almost all nickel out there) is electroplated nickel, which is a cosmetic nickel and not appropriate for water contact. Electroplated shiny nickel is cheap to use and easy to make look great. But it's the reason everything comes with a warning "don't use with water!!!"

Our Pro-XE nickel is a super corrosion resistant nickel, rated for salt water sprays and chemicals well beyond anything PC builders would use  We run our systems on pure distilled water, no additives, like the PC gods intended. 

After all, the cheapest faucets from Home Depot are safe for garbage tap water, liquid cooling parts should be as well.


----------



## newls1

Mounted the AMD FOundation block today... Between using the EK backplate, ek studs, found very small but tight springs in my screw/nut/20 years of pc building hardware bin..... and used the optimus provided black threaded nuts to tighten them down. Contact pad with trial test of TIM was fantastic, then wiped it clean, applied MX4, and tightned everything down and she is tight, firm and sexy..... gotta mock up to much other stuff to make the loop work, and dont have time tonight nor tomorrow. Project will commence again come wendsday.


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> Haha!
> 
> For nickel, yeah the bad flaky stuff has given a nickel a bad reputation. Anything that flakes (and almost all nickel out there) is electroplated nickel, which is a cosmetic nickel and not appropriate for water contact. Electroplated shiny nickel is cheap to use and easy to make look great. But it's the reason everything comes with a warning "don't use with water!!!"
> 
> Our Pro-XE nickel is a super corrosion resistant nickel, rated for salt water sprays and chemicals well beyond anything PC builders would use  We run our systems on pure distilled water, no additives, like the PC gods intended.
> 
> After all, the cheapest faucets from Home Depot are safe for garbage tap water, liquid cooling parts should be as well.


yeaaaaaaaah. but how do you account for run away PH with just water? I'd keep this bit to yourself, new users will blame you for every single issue in their loop, if they have issues while using pure water. it should work, just fine... yet we have dozens of threads a year where people have major issues while running just water. so many of us recommend mayhem's drops/x1, as it stupid proofs what can go wrong in an improperly cleaned system.

the customers you expect and built your products for are the minority.


----------



## Mordorr

Pure water is a myth.
Can`t believe how people make that mistake....even the most pure water eventually will make things bad....


----------



## skupples

unless you're changing it often, you'll have issues. They might not show in your blocks, but said issues will eventually eat away at your blocks. Mayhem's droppers are perfect for those wanting to run JUST water, without the side effects JUST water can cause with long term use.

its strange, some folks can get away with it (supposedly) while others have issues within a couple weeks of filling (me, the last time I used JUST water) the water that came out could've balanced my pool.


----------



## Mordorr

There was here i think a old tread about normal water, distilled water, and electrolytic treated water, of the most pure one.

All eventually fail......good readings on +- 2005.


----------



## Optimus WC

Pure water is A-OK if the loop is 100% Optimus (minus radiator). If a loop isn't all Optimus, then it'll have problems. If any component is being eaten away, that's a sign it's poorly made. 

We use only a type of electroless nickel. Electroless is the pro stuff. Electrolytic is the common nickel in liquid cooling. 

We are hyper concerned about this. Our nickel plating can come with a mil spec and aero spec for salt water and outdoor usage. We worked with an AI company putting PCs next to the ocean and desert. Every other brand of liquid cooling parts they tested fell apart. Ours were flawless. 

Really, this level of nickel isn't unusual in the normal world, it's just not used in liquid cooling because it's more difficult to do.


----------



## skupples

overclockers.com has an ancient and still (imagine that) accurate guide on all of this.

they even went to the trouble of ruining lots of metal stuff to prove their point in accelerated tests. 

the one I linked isn't it though -.- and says to use PTNuke -.- -.- -.- sorry folks, but in 2019 you should buy mayhem's droppers over deadwater/ptnuke... specially since RADIATORS MAKE COPPER SULPHATE!!!!


----------



## Keith Myers

Section31 said:


> Thanks. Looks like I will be going ahead with the 3950X order in the end. Going to just sell off the 3900X once the 3950X comes in.


Well from all media reports, the 3950X dies are binned a lot better than what they used on the 3900X. All the tests I saw comparing the two was that the 3950X runs cooler and with less Vcore than the 3900X with 4 more cpu cores running. I would think that would be a great match with the Foundation block.


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> overclockers.com has an ancient and still (imagine that) accurate guide on all of this.
> 
> they even went to the trouble of ruining lots of metal stuff to prove their point in accelerated tests.
> 
> the one I linked isn't it though -.- and says to use PTNuke -.- -.- -.- sorry folks, but in 2019 you should buy mayhem's droppers over deadwater/ptnuke... specially since RADIATORS MAKE COPPER SULPHATE!!!!


They definitely didn't test our stuff 

Our type of nickel is made for professional applications like petroleum fittings, salt spray, water treatment, etc. It's super industrial. It looks different than normal nickel (slightly darker). And it's really hard to make shiny like chrome. 

There isn't anything strange in a PC loop. The heat and flow is pretty low compared to other usage in engines, piping, etc. 

Really, with our products, skip all the extreme rinsing and flushing, it's simply not needed. 10 year warranty on distilled, believe it.


----------



## Keith Myers

I used to work with chilled water cooling for radar and HF transmitters. Deonized water with zero conductivity still needs micron filters and ion bed filters to keep conductivity in check from the water eventually stripping metal ions into solution and ruining your conductivity. Since we don't run those type of filters in our coolant loops, regular coolant replacement is needed eventually.

Woo-hoo! Just ordered my 3950X from Amazon at MSRP. Xmas present to myself. Now the 3900X can move to my wimpy 2700X host.


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> They definitely didn't test our stuff
> 
> Our type of nickel is made for professional applications like petroleum fittings, salt spray, water treatment, etc. It's super industrial. It looks different than normal nickel (slightly darker). And it's really hard to make shiny like chrome.
> 
> There isn't anything strange in a PC loop. The heat and flow is pretty low compared to other usage in engines, piping, etc.
> 
> Really, with our products, skip all the extreme rinsing and flushing, it's simply not needed. 10 year warranty on distilled, believe it.


oh I completely understand. I'm not referring to nickel failing at this point, just that you should still probably keep an eye on your water, like you would your pool. With, or without marine grade plating. Though I suppose you've drastically reduced the # of parts that'll corrode while running years old battery acid in your loop by having all marine plated stuff. Your radiators and pumps are still going to be susceptible to the acid you're brewing. N stable water is incredibly important for those still using soft tubes. As far as your stuff goes though, yes it should be completely fine, no matter what nasty experiment people's coolant turns into. 
did I miss radiators somewhere on your page?


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> did I miss radiators somewhere on your page?



They don’t make them..... yet

There are on the same page the dual pumps are... in the future


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> They don’t make them..... yet
> 
> There are on the same page the dual pumps are... in the future


cool, seems this company is showing up just in time for my 2021 STH10 full tear down, clean up, & rebuild. Radiators definitely seem like a way long game goal, n pumps are pumps, though a dual top to match the cups would be pretty cool. fully machined, matching finish. hngggg


----------



## Section31

I have been waiting for new radiators for long time. First heatkiller but they have since put that on long term goal. Now interested in Optimus.


----------



## Optimus WC

Yup, we're doing radiators, the goals are: highest performance, zero solder flux, zero nastiness, sweet looks and made in USA. Price? Somewhere between "premium" and "obscene." So no idea yet. 

Availability will be after all other main components are done. It's a "it'll be ready when it's ready" thing. Depends on how quickly we can expand. 

Dual D5s? Most definitely. But will they fit in your SFF STH10 build??


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep nickle plating from Slavia or where ever it's being done at in the EU sure isn't cutting the mustard 
Give me copper damn it !


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, we're doing radiators, the goals are: highest performance, zero solder flux, zero nastiness, sweet looks and made in USA. Price? Somewhere between "premium" and "obscene." So no idea yet.
> 
> Availability will be after all other main components are done. It's a "it'll be ready when it's ready" thing. Depends on how quickly we can expand.
> 
> Dual D5s? Most definitely. But will they fit in your SFF STH10 build??


radiators definitely seem a step laden process. 

as to sth10 and sff... maybe I missed the humor 

the goal is to eventually split off into 2x dual pump loops, cuz why not when both can have 480s to breath with. This 7 year old MCP35x2 just needs to die first. I've been running it full tilt @ 400LPH for the last 3 months, while there's only one block in the loop and still nothing.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, we're doing radiators, the goals are: highest performance, zero solder flux, zero nastiness, sweet looks and made in USA. Price? Somewhere between "premium" and "obscene." So no idea yet.
> 
> Availability will be after all other main components are done. It's a "it'll be ready when it's ready" thing. Depends on how quickly we can expand.
> 
> Dual D5s? Most definitely. But will they fit in your SFF STH10 build??


It would be nice if your future reservoir support the D5 Next. I thought about using your reservoir for my build but i was using the D5 Next so it didn't fit.


----------



## skupples

playing nice with other high end stuff is always nice.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> radiators definitely seem a step laden process.
> 
> 
> 
> as to sth10 and sff... maybe I missed the humor
> 
> 
> 
> the goal is to eventually split off into 2x dual pump loops, cuz why not when both can have 480s to breath with. This 7 year old MCP35x2 just needs to die first. I've been running it full tilt @ 400LPH for the last 3 months, while there's only one block in the loop and still nothing.




Why dual loops? I thought about that route with my TH10 and pedestal but it’s not worth the routing headache, better to just bake it all in one if you can.



Optimus WC said:


> Yup, we're doing radiators, the goals are: highest performance, zero solder flux, zero nastiness, sweet looks and made in USA. Price? Somewhere between "premium" and "obscene." So no idea yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Availability will be after all other main components are done. It's a "it'll be ready when it's ready" thing. Depends on how quickly we can expand.
> 
> 
> 
> Dual D5s? Most definitely. But will they fit in your SFF STH10 build??




They have to beat the current king HWL GTX’s. 
You do that and don’t stay under $250 or so for a 560 and I’ll gladly switch to yours. 
One suggestion is copy the design of the SR2 with multiple ports, and avoid having an in and out port like the GTX. Makes it so much easier to route tubing when you have options.


----------



## skupples

just for the poops and giggles. no pedestal. board running off of 2x up top, and GPUs running off of 2x in the bottom.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah I’m upgrading to dual 480’s up top with dual 560’s in the pedestal, debating adding a 360 just cause I have it, I’ll see how routing works first.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> They have to beat the current king HWL GTX’s.
> You do that and don’t stay under $250 or so for a 560 and I’ll gladly switch to yours.
> One suggestion is copy the design of the SR2 with multiple ports, and avoid having an in and out port like the GTX. Makes it so much easier to route tubing when you have options.


Amazing hows it been almost 3 years and the HWL SR2, GTX, GTR and EKWB XE Series still remains the top thick radiators. HWL GTS is still the king in the 30mm (with the Koolance and XSPC TX Series right behind it). The only better performing radiator is the external radiator like Heatkiller Mora


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Amazing hows it been almost 3 years and the HWL SR2, GTX, GTR and EKWB XE Series still remains the top thick radiators. HWL GTS is still the king in the 30mm (with the Koolance and XSPC TX Series right behind it). The only better performing radiator is the external radiator like Heatkiller Mora




Really much hasn’t changed in the last 10 years. At least in terms of radiators and pumps.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Really much hasn’t changed in the last 10 years. At least in terms of radiators and pumps.


Very True. Its really only been RGB. I would argue the D5 Next kind of qualifies as gimmick but i do appreciate the built in temp meter, virtual flow meter (if works) and the ability to control the pump directly through aquasuite. That extra fan header thing helps if you have use for it. The sata power feature is also nice. More quality of life improvements.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Very True. Its really only been RGB. I would argue the D5 Next kind of qualifies as gimmick but i do appreciate the built in temp meter, virtual flow meter (if works) and the ability to control the pump directly through aquasuite. That extra fan header thing helps if you have use for it. The sata power feature is also nice. More quality of life improvements.




Yeah the D5 next really is a gimmick. The temp sensor is to far away to be accurate and the flow meter has to be calibrated by stopping the flow of your loop for 30 seconds. Although I’m sure that won’t screw anything up, that’s to much for me. Much easier to stick with those high flow sensors


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah the D5 next really is a gimmick. The temp sensor is to far away to be accurate and the flow meter has to be calibrated by stopping the flow of your loop for 30 seconds. Although I’m sure that won’t screw anything up, that’s to much for me. Much easier to stick with those high flow sensors


Yeah or use the third party flow meters. I used the BarrowsCH OLED Flow Meter and Temp Meter (in lieu of the BP Dual Adapter Fittings as it doesn't keep the tubing straight). The temperature seems pretty close for my setup. 

I suspect my setup temperatures/flow could be improved if I did not go the parallel loop setup I use. Most people wouldn't do my loop setup the way I did.


----------



## 4WDBenio

Great, just like Aquacomputer rads.

👍


Optimus WC said:


> Yup, we're doing radiators, the goals are: highest performance, zero solder flux, zero nastiness, sweet looks and made in USA. Price? Somewhere between "premium" and "obscene." So no idea yet.
> 
> Availability will be after all other main components are done. It's a "it'll be ready when it's ready" thing. Depends on how quickly we can expand.
> 
> Dual D5s? Most definitely. But will they fit in your SFF STH10 build?? /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif


----------



## shiokarai

4WDBenio said:


> Great, just like Aquacomputer rads.
> 
> 👍


I beg to differ:

https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/15/aqua-computer-ams-copper-360mm-radiator-review/5/

https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/18/aqua-computer-airplex-radical-2-copper-radiator-review/5/


----------



## 4WDBenio

zero solder flux, zero nastiness, sweet looks.

I also own them.

Differ all you like. I have no problem.


shiokarai said:


> 4WDBenio said:
> 
> 
> 
> Great, just like Aquacomputer rads.
> 
> 👍
> 
> 
> 
> I beg to differ:
> 
> https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/15/aqua-computer-ams-copper-360mm-radiator-review/5/
> 
> https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/18/aqua-computer-airplex-radical-2-copper-radiator-review/5/
Click to expand...


----------



## skupples

he didn't include modular.


----------



## Section31

shiokarai said:


> I beg to differ:
> 
> https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/15/aqua-computer-ams-copper-360mm-radiator-review/5/
> 
> https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/05/18/aqua-computer-airplex-radical-2-copper-radiator-review/5/


I saw that too. I wonder if aquacomputer was like heatkiller non-external rads where they designed it for low fan speeds hence why it performed poorly with high speed fans. Heatkiller new rads were suppose to be for low speed fans according to last known info.


----------



## shiokarai

4WDBenio said:


> zero solder flux, zero nastiness, sweet looks.
> 
> I also own them.
> 
> Differ all you like. I have no problem.


I prefer HardwareLabs SR-2 Mulitport, my fav


----------



## 4WDBenio

They are cool too.

Looking forward to Optimus bringing new rad choices.



shiokarai said:


> 4WDBenio said:
> 
> 
> 
> zero solder flux, zero nastiness, sweet looks.
> 
> I also own them.
> 
> Differ all you like. I have no problem.
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer HardwareLabs SR-2 Mulitport, my fav
Click to expand...


----------



## newls1

well, trying to get this thread back on topic.... I cant wait to finally have time to see how this block performs tomorrow. If my alternative mounting method works, and this block performs as good as it looks, man ill be happy


----------



## MoDeNa

newls1 said:


> well, trying to get this thread back on topic.... I cant wait to finally have time to see how this block performs tomorrow. If my alternative mounting method works, and this block performs as good as it looks, man ill be happy


Waiting for your tests! Keep us updated please!


----------



## newls1

MoDeNa said:


> Waiting for your tests! Keep us updated please!


me to


----------



## ugotd8

newls1 said:


> me to


Good luck and would love to see some photos of the mounting issue and your alternative method.


----------



## knightriot

just got new optimus block, my room temp~33*c, so i got good result?  prime95 in 20 min


----------



## newls1

ugotd8 said:


> Good luck and would love to see some photos of the mounting issue and your alternative method.


already been posted...

**EDIT https://www.overclock.net/forum/28240414-post293.html


----------



## Jokesterwild

Nory retested with normal setup as suggested by Optimus. Better results


----------



## GAN77

Jokesterwild said:


> Nory retested with normal setup as suggested by Optimus. Better results
> View attachment 312610


What is a "normal setting"?


----------



## Optimus WC

Jokesterwild said:


> Nory retested with normal setup as suggested by Optimus. Better results
> View attachment 312610


*6c improvement on bare die seems correct  *

Our "Regular" Optimus Signature block is the standard one with the curvature. The ultra flat version is really for lapped IHS. 

In Nory's scenario, the bare die bracket isn't perfect, perventing the flat Signature block from making correct contact. 

With the standard Signature, the curvature of the cold plate matches both the Intel IHS and the shape of the bare die. So you get max contact, regardless of die brackets.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> *6c improvement on bare die seems correct  *
> 
> Our "Regular" Optimus Signature block is the standard one with the curvature. *The ultra flat version is really for lapped IHS. *
> 
> In Nory's scenario, the bare die bracket isn't perfect, perventing the flat Signature block from making correct contact.
> 
> With the standard Signature, the curvature of the cold plate matches both the Intel IHS and the shape of the bare die. So you get max contact, regardless of die brackets.


Hi,
You keep saying that 
But in fact there is no difference in a lapped ihs and bare die both are flat.


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You keep saying that
> But in fact there is no difference in a lapped ihs and bare die both are flat.


Correct, but the die brackets aren't perfectly flat. The ideal would be our flat block with a correctly made die bracket. 

But die brackets tend to raise beyond the top of the die. So when our flat block is on there, it won't make correct contact with the die -- there's a gap. 

With our regular Signature, there is a bow the shape of the die that is able to go into the recessed die pocket, thus making correct contact.


----------



## MoDeNa

knightriot said:


> just got new optimus block, my room temp~33*c, so i got good result?  prime95 in 20 min


Many thanks for sharing your results.

I would ask for better understanding the result, if it is possible, to also share the coolant temp and delta with ambient and version used of prime95.


----------



## NorySS

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You keep saying that
> But in fact there is no difference in a lapped ihs and bare die both are flat.


Hi, these are my results. I plan to retest the 'Bare Die Version' a 2nd time. 
It might have been a mount issue. When you are dealing with a lapped die, even the smallest angle can skew #s off. 

As mentioned, after looking at the results, and then looking at Optimus' block, i understand why their regular version works so well. 
The curvature is enhanced by the jet plate. If you compare the width and length of the jet plate to the 9900k die size, it covers it really well. This is important, because the cold plates curvature 'peak' plateaus over the Die of a 9900K.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Each direct die mount frame comes with it's own mounting hardware so why use the blocks.
Delidded is always different but if the block can't go farther down I'd imagine it's again the factory mounting studs... that is the problem or the surface of the cold plate is too big to go down anymore conflicting with the socket or maybe other items.


----------



## knightriot

MoDeNa said:


> Many thanks for sharing your results.
> 
> I would ask for better understanding the result, if it is possible, to also share the coolant temp and delta with ambient and version used of prime95.


HI bro, my room temp~33*c , coolant temp ~34 35*c , prime95 latest disable avx (enable avx = 3.8ghz all core and fullload just 60*c ). I tested new optimus block and reseat it 3 times for sure i doing right, but...








and finally i return ... my best block is alphacool epx edge:









in my case, performance is : alphacool edge > xpsc raystorm neo > optimus foundation 
BTW i use 2x480 + 1x240 rad because my room too hot in day


----------



## NorySS

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Each direct die mount frame comes with it's own mounting hardware so why use the blocks.
> Delidded is always different but if the block can't go farther down I'd imagine it's again the factory mounting studs... that is the problem or the surface of the cold plate is too big to go down anymore conflicting with the socket or maybe other items.


Hi, 
When you say mounting hardware, are you referring to the hardware used to clamp the block to the cpu/socket? 
or the hardware used to clap the direct die bracket to the cpu/socket?


----------



## Optimus WC

knightriot said:


> HI bro, my room temp~33*c , coolant temp ~34 35*c , prime95 latest disable avx (enable avx = 3.8ghz all core and fullload just 60*c ). I tested new optimus block and reseat it 3 times for sure i doing right, but...


Something is definitely off with the numbers you're getting. Is your CPU IHS lapped? Also, could be a bent pin issue (happens with repeated removing of waterblocks on AMD, unfortunately).


----------



## Optimus WC

Also room temp at 33c (91f) is heat stroke territory. Gotta get AC


----------



## knightriot

Optimus WC said:


> Something is definitely off with the numbers you're getting. Is your CPU IHS lapped? Also, could be a bent pin issue (happens with repeated removing of waterblocks on AMD, unfortunately).


Optimus Foundation block still good , I can say it better than my old EK SP EVO on my old 3900X (~8x *c at prime95). 
I use wc ~ 5 years , I use qc fitting all, and i very careful so I think my result not wrong. btw I could not turn on the air conditioner during the day because the difference would cause us heat stroke


----------



## Keith Myers

MoDeNa said:


> Many thanks for sharing your results.
> 
> I would ask for better understanding the result, if it is possible, to also share the coolant temp and delta with ambient and version used of prime95.


For such a high ambient room temperature, that is a respectable temp for Prime95. I assume you used the default Blend torture test. Small FFT's are harder to crunch and generate a lot more heat.

Radiators used in custom cooling use a delta-T of 10° C. over ambient for efficiency ratings or for how much heat wattage can be dissipated.


----------



## newls1

MoDeNa said:


> Waiting for your tests! Keep us updated please!


okay, here you go, heres is my update. Got block installed, dual D5's in serial config, and a 420mm rad, and a 240mm rad.. all push/pull config. Room is about 18c-ish and loop completely full of air. I did drop about 5-6c with this block compared to both the EK Velocity and the heatkiller pro IV, so GREAT BLOCK HERE, but again, using my own mounting methods. Not saying AT ALL, that excellent results cant happen with the supplied mounting methods, i just chose to go a different route. Here are pics of aida64 loaded for a short bit, then immediate idle temps, then water temp inside radiator (white LED display, green is gpu loop)

So quick recap - This OC is per CCD. CCD0 is 4.525GHz and CCD1 is 4.350GHz @ 1.325v. These temps seem nicely improved over other blocks. Thank you optimus


----------



## skupples

yay!


----------



## Section31

Thanks. I cant wait for my 3950x lol


----------



## newls1

looks like my water temps stay around 4-5c above ambient room temp when pc is @ idle.... That seems pretty good


----------



## skupples

indeed it is, but that's a radiator metric


----------



## newls1

skupples said:


> indeed it is, but that's a radiator metric


no **** sherlock


----------



## skupples

part of what I do @ work is pointing out what's right in front of people, so its become a bad habit elsewhere


----------



## Optimus WC

newls1 said:


> okay, here you go, heres is my update. Got block installed, dual D5's in serial config, and a 420mm rad, and a 240mm rad.. all push/pull config. Room is about 18c-ish and loop completely full of air. I did drop about 5-6c with this block compared to both the EK Velocity and the heatkiller pro IV, so GREAT BLOCK HERE, but again, using my own mounting methods. Not saying AT ALL, that excellent results cant happen with the supplied mounting methods, i just chose to go a different route. Here are pics of aida64 loaded for a short bit, then immediate idle temps, then water temp inside radiator (white LED display, green is gpu loop)
> 
> So quick recap - This OC is per CCD. CCD0 is 4.525GHz and CCD1 is 4.350GHz @ 1.325v. These temps seem nicely improved over other blocks. Thank you optimus


Great temps on the 3950x!! Thanks for sticking with us, glad you're getting solid performance gains


----------



## jarcsp

Got my block today, will try to install tonight and will post some results 3950X too.
My only feedback is the fins seem to have some sort of debris stuck on them, planning to open the block to clean it anyway so not a big deal. and as somebody already mentioned before the acrylic has a few really little scratch marks but again I won't be able to notice them once mounted. Overall happy with the looks and build quality.


----------



## knightriot

newls1 said:


> okay, here you go, heres is my update. Got block installed, dual D5's in serial config, and a 420mm rad, and a 240mm rad.. all push/pull config. Room is about 18c-ish and loop completely full of air. I did drop about 5-6c with this block compared to both the EK Velocity and the heatkiller pro IV, so GREAT BLOCK HERE, but again, using my own mounting methods. Not saying AT ALL, that excellent results cant happen with the supplied mounting methods, i just chose to go a different route. Here are pics of aida64 loaded for a short bit, then immediate idle temps, then water temp inside radiator (white LED display, green is gpu loop)
> 
> So quick recap - This OC is per CCD. CCD0 is 4.525GHz and CCD1 is 4.350GHz @ 1.325v. These temps seem nicely improved over other blocks. Thank you optimus


your room temp so good  mine at 33*c  2xx W too


----------



## Optimus WC

jarcsp said:


> Got my block today, will try to install tonight and will post some results 3950X too.
> My only feedback is the fins seem to have some sort of debris stuck on them, planning to open the block to clean it anyway so not a big deal. and as somebody already mentioned before the acrylic has a few really little scratch marks but again I won't be able to notice them once mounted. Overall happy with the looks and build quality.


Hey, glad you like the block!

Looking at your pictures, those lines in the fins are reflective areas that look like there's something in there but it's really the way the light catches the machined pockets and fins. We look at the cold plate fins under a microscope to make sure they're straight and clean (it's super hard to tell just with the naked eye). You can use a jewelers loop or magnifying glass to see what I'm talking about. The pic below shows a macro shot of the fins with the little marks. The insides of the fins are mirror finished so they reflect light in weird ways.

It also looks like there is tiny bits of lint or fibers from packaging. Not something to worry about, or something we can control, until we upgrade to robots in a vacuum. So 2020 

For the acrylic, there are machining marks where we use our diamond tools to make the acrylic. Those marks disappear when filled with fluid (or looking at the block at a normal distance). Unless you're seeing abnormal scratches then we'll replace it


----------



## skupples

nice and chilly down here tonight, it's like 7-8c outside.


----------



## newls1

Optimus WC said:


> Great temps on the 3950x!! Thanks for sticking with us, glad you're getting solid performance gains


:thumb:


----------



## jarcsp

Thank you so much for the quick and thorough response 
I think what I can see inside is a bit of those little tiny bits of lint or fibers from packaging that might have fallen inside the open ports during transit, again not a big deal at all.
Regarding the scratch it is really really tiny, I wouldn't even notice it if I don't look for it so no worries, totally acceptable and not worth replacing it (Thanks a lot for the offer)
Really keen to get those temps down hehehe.

Thanks again, really like the look, feels really solid and I'm sure I'll experience same temp reduction as others mentioned already


----------



## Section31

This is why i am also looking forward to Optimus other products. Seriously, BP Premium (cheaper) is better than BP normal fittings. This build had it the worst due to brass tubing but my other builds also had issues with the tubing coming out easily. I now have to throw out every 12mm BP Fitting I own.


----------



## skline00

Just installed an Optimus AMD Foundation WB (Black Acetal Nickle block cold plate) on my 3900x below. I was using A Corsair H100i v2 AIO but since I have done some custom water-cooling in the past I made some changes. First I used a new computer case- Phantek Ethoo Pro tempered glass. Plenty of room for my pump/res combo and a really nice case for @$110.00

I used a 360 mm Magic Cool slim rad (had 2 of the slims sitting here being unused). Used 3 new XSPC 1650 rpm 120mm radiator fans. Used an EK 140 D5 pump res combo and obviously the drop dead gorgeous and solid Optimus WB. I used 3/4"OD x 1/2" ID clear flexible tubing purchased in bulk from Performance PC (bought @25 feet so I have it for projects)

The case has a really neat 6 or 8 3 pin adapter to hook all the rad fans.

I followed the manufacturers instructions on mounting to the to the T and had absolutely no problems. I used Noctua NT-H2 TP instead of the supplied as I have always had solid results with it.

The CPU is running stock. I'm using a Gigabyte X470 Ultra mb which is NOT high end but the 3900x works great with it. I previously had a 2700x but you know what happens when you get early Newegg gift cards for Christmas.

Back to the waterblock. This is a superb piece of machinery. I have used primarily EK blocks before so I could tell the difference in bulk.

The mounting system is fine. No scratches - just take your time.

Hard to judge the cooling performance but when running Cinebench R20 the temps measured on Ryzen Master do not exceed 62C.


----------



## poah

skline00 said:


> The CPU is running stock. I'm using a Gigabyte X470 Ultra mb which is NOT high end but the 3900x works great with it.
> 
> Hard to judge the cooling performance but when running Cinebench R20 the temps measured on Ryzen Master do not exceed 62C.




what frequency you getting


----------



## jarcsp

*Amazing Block*

Update.

Holy cow, finished installing the block and got 7C drop from the Phanteks under load on the 3950X, really happy with it, AMAZING Block 
Only thing is I had to install those plastic washers on the front of the motherboard, not sure if the Asus Formula 570 has bigger PCB holes but the stands where literally not covering the PCB hole diameter...


----------



## skupples

^ probably why most folks bag/sticky their blocks.

side thought - opening something that's been vac sealed feels so crisp and clean  

anywhooo  :wheee:

gorgeous system! Makes me wanna switch out my tubes for ek NOTprene


----------



## poah

jarcsp said:


> Update.
> 
> Holy cow, finished installing the block and got 7C drop from the Phanteks under load on the 3950X, really happy with it, AMAZING Block


what performance difference did that make?


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> This is why i am also looking forward to Optimus other products. Seriously, BP Premium (cheaper) is better than BP normal fittings. This build had it the worst due to brass tubing but my other builds also had issues with the tubing coming out easily. I now have to throw out every 12mm BP Fitting I own.


It's looking like 12mm will go into production in the next few weeks. Yeah all the skinny o-ring hardline fittings are super easy to pull out. Even the bigger o-ring designs are too easy. Serious problem. That's why we're doing custom gaskets:


----------



## Optimus WC

skline00 said:


> Back to the waterblock. This is a superb piece of machinery. I have used primarily EK blocks before so I could tell the difference in bulk.
> 
> The mounting system is fine. No scratches - just take your time.
> 
> Hard to judge the cooling performance but when running Cinebench R20 the temps measured on Ryzen Master do not exceed 62C.


Glad ya like it!! Temps sound nice


----------



## Optimus WC

jarcsp said:


> Update.
> 
> Holy cow, finished installing the block and got 7C drop from the Phanteks under load on the 3950X, really happy with it, AMAZING Block
> Only thing is I had to install those plastic washers on the front of the motherboard, not sure if the Asus Formula 570 has bigger PCB holes but the stands where literally not covering the PCB hole diameter...


7c! That's awesome  Our blocks really outrun traditional blocks when the dies get hotter and smaller. Old style cold plates just aren't made to handle the new AMD awesomeness 

And strange about the giant mobo holes, we're now including washers just to be safe


----------



## Forsaken1

Looking good Optimus.

Coupon code available?


----------



## Optimus WC

Forsaken1 said:


> Looking good Optimus.
> 
> Coupon code available?


PPCs will run a promotion very soon


----------



## Forsaken1

Great news


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> It's looking like 12mm will go into production in the next few weeks. Yeah all the skinny o-ring hardline fittings are super easy to pull out. Even the bigger o-ring designs are too easy. Serious problem. That's why we're doing custom gaskets:


Thanks for the update. Definitely on my list, just whether i do it earlier or wait to do it same time as 3080TI (as I have to order in a water block for it too). Same thing with your radiators (if they come out).


----------



## newls1

another update... Look at these cinebench load temps with a fairly high OC 3950x. Very impressed again. FOR SURE HAVE MY BUISNESS for all future waterblocks/accessories

*EDIT* Prior with about same room temps I have in the mid 70s with package temps heading to 90c... So much improved. Got my best on that run of 10440 :thumb::thumb:


----------



## Shawnb99

Block installed but now my build is on hold while I try to find screws for my radiator. For the life of me I can’t find enough M4 x 35mm screws and 3mm nuts anywhere. 

Tried 6 different stores and not one has any. So frustrating


----------



## skupples

that sucks.

I used to go to marine hardware store to get my radiator screws.


----------



## ciarlatano

Shawnb99 said:


> Block installed but now my build is on hold while I try to find screws for my radiator. For the life of me I can’t find enough M4 x 35mm screws and 3mm nuts anywhere.
> 
> Tried 6 different stores and not one has any. So frustrating


Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F32EBIW/

I always keep a bag on hand as an HWL user.


----------



## Shawnb99

ciarlatano said:


> Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F32EBIW/
> 
> 
> 
> I always keep a bag on hand as an HWL user.




I can find the screws on Amazon, it's the nuts I can’t seem to find. I’ll keep looking


----------



## jarcsp

Optimus WC said:


> 7c! That's awesome /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif Our blocks really outrun traditional blocks when the dies get hotter and smaller. Old style cold plates just aren't made to handle the new AMD awesomeness /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> And strange about the giant mobo holes, we're now including washers just to be safe /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif



Yeah, first AMD mobo in years so not sure if it is just Asus and this model...
The diameter of the mobo holes is about .25 inches as seen from the original mounting plastic tabs.

But with the plastic washers I used I had no issues at all, the back thumbnut had no issues because it is wider than the whole, just the stands presented the issue. Thanks for taking back the feedback and including washers.


----------



## Section31

newls1 said:


> another update... Look at these cinebench load temps with a fairly high OC 3950x. Very impressed again. FOR SURE HAVE MY BUISNESS for all future waterblocks/accessories
> 
> *EDIT* Prior with about same room temps I have in the mid 70s with package temps heading to 90c... So much improved. Got my best on that run of 10440 :thumb::thumb:


Nice results. I so am going from 3900X to 3950X.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I can find the screws on Amazon, it's the nuts I can’t seem to find. I’ll keep looking


I found them at my local hardware stores oddly.


----------



## skupples

yep, those are nearly identical to what I get at the local (GENUINELY LOCAL, NOT ACE) hardware/marine supply store. 

the black/hex ones are more expensive, so I just get those @ like .5c a piece.


----------



## ugotd8

Yes, thanks for the washers and the quick shipping! Had to cross the streams tho. I blame AMD. :-D


----------



## Section31

When i order in the fittings i will ask for the springs too.


----------



## jarcsp

ugotd8 said:


> Yes, thanks for the washers and the quick shipping! Had to cross the streams tho. I blame AMD. :-D


Hi mate,

Really nice build BTW, out of curiosity... Your mobo PCB holes were too big too for the Mounting Posts? or they fitted snuggly? mines were .25 inches wide and wonder now if it is an Asus thing, I'm a bit worried because I didn't use washers on the backside, doubt it will cause any issues, the thumbnut is wider than .25inch so it should be ok.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## ugotd8

jarcsp said:


> Hi mate,
> 
> Really nice build BTW, out of curiosity... Your mobo PCB holes were too big too for the Mounting Posts? or they fitted snuggly? mines were .25 inches wide and wonder now if it is an Asus thing, I'm a bit worried because I didn't use washers on the backside, doubt it will cause any issues, the thumbnut is wider than .25inch so it should be ok.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Yes, my mobo has the .25 holes as well. It's probably not a board brand thing, I think the backplate has a standard sleeve size and fits into those holes. I came to the same conclusion and just used the washers on the topside, the thumbnuts underneath are smooth and serve as washers.

It was just a matter of making sure the stud is not cocked or angled, I tightened it a little and gave it a wiggle to make sure it was straight before tightening. Having said that, I can see a product improvement. It would be good if they came with threaded metal sleeves like the original backplate. Or maybe if the underside thumbnuts had a collar? I know it probably wont make a difference, but it would certainly add to my comfort level.


----------



## jarcsp

ugotd8 said:


> Yes, my mobo has the .25 holes as well. It's probably not a board brand thing, I think the backplate has a standard sleeve size and fits into those holes. I came to the same conclusion and just used the washers on the topside, the thumbnuts underneath are smooth and serve as washers.
> 
> It was just a matter of making sure the stud is not cocked or angled, I tightened it a little and gave it a wiggle to make sure it was straight before tightening. Having said that, I can see a product improvement. It would be good if they came with threaded metal sleeves like the original backplate. I know it probably wont make a difference, but it would certainly add to my comfort level.


Ohhh cool, I did exactly the same, only washers on the top, at least I know I am not the only one hahaha was feeling that maybe I received the wrong studs or I was doing something stupid. Anyway thanks for the quick answer, I feel better now hahaha.
Loving the block but I agree, at least for AMD there is some room for improvement for the mounting


----------



## ugotd8

newls1 said:


> another update... Look at these cinebench load temps with a fairly high OC 3950x. Very impressed again. FOR SURE HAVE MY BUISNESS for all future waterblocks/accessories
> 
> *EDIT* Prior with about same room temps I have in the mid 70s with package temps heading to 90c... So much improved. Got my best on that run of 10440 :thumb::thumb:


Nice!!! Hey, just a friendly tip. You can hit the two blue arrows in the lower left corner of HWinfo and make multiple columns. You can also right click on values and hide them if you want. Then we can all see all the deets


----------



## newls1

ugotd8 said:


> Nice!!! Hey, just a friendly tip. You can hit the two blue arrows in the lower left corner of HWinfo and make multiple columns. You can also right click on values and hide them if you want. Then we can all see all the deets


DUDE! Thank you for telling me that, i didnt know that. appreciate it :thumb:


----------



## newls1

soooooo, did i miss something? Is optimus (my new best friend) now shipping washers and springs? I want in on this, as i feel i am the cause of this!! just in case I have to tear this down for something, id like to replace my parts with "Official" parts.


----------



## ugotd8

newls1 said:


> soooooo, did i miss something? Is optimus (my new best friend) now shipping washers and springs? I want in on this, as i feel i am the cause of this!! just in case I have to tear this down for something, id like to replace my parts with "Official" parts.


Just washers.


----------



## Optimus WC

We're now including small washers with the AMD Foundation blocks. The washers are optional, we may include larger ones if needed. The springs are included in the Intel Signature blocks, though those will eventually be phased out in place of the springless solid mounting. 

It'll be a while before we do a full redesigned mounting system for AM4 boards. We'll revisit if/when we do an AMD Signature block. And by that time, AM5 might be out, hopefully with a stronger socket. 

Really, we'd like to move to a precise torque system, similar to the Threadripper socket. No springs, no guessing, just perfection. But finding reasonably priced torque drivers is the challenge.


----------



## D-EJ915

Shawnb99 said:


> I can find the screws on Amazon, it's the nuts I can’t seem to find. I’ll keep looking


I had to order a really odd size for my 140 nbe fans with filters and found some on boltdepot.com, shipping is most of the cost unless you order a bunch but they have every size pretty much.


----------



## oreonutz

OK, Got my New Optimus AM4 Foundation block a few days ago, along with my 3950x. I promised in depth testing in my lab, but I got buried in projects at work, I didn't even get to install my new Chip and Block until a few hours ago. I skipped my lab, I am sorry, I will do more in depth testing soon, hopefully around the Christmas break when I have time.



Spoiler







































What I did do, to get a decent A/B Comparison was run a Stress Test using Y-Cruncher's BBP Digit Extraction Stress Test for 5 Minutes on each Chip, This is an AVX2 Floating Point workload. Because I was switching chips in between, my goal was to match the amount of current being pushed out on average for both Chips. I already have the 3900x Locked at 4.2Ghz, and 1.275v under full load. For this test, instead of breaking out the Current Clamp, I am using HWinfo exclusively, using the SVI2 TFN Sensor to measure CPU Current. For the Duration of the 5 Minutes test, with a polling rate of 1ms, using an Average Samples size of 20 Samples, I was consistently averaging about 111amps for the 3900x as pictured by the screenshot taken approximately 5 minutes and 30 seconds into the test.

Screenshot of HWinfo Data of 3900x with AlphaCool EisBlock:


Spoiler















So as you can see from the Screenshot, with my 3900x averaging about 111amps for the duration of the test, a peak current of 115amps, with the Room Ambient Fluctuating for the duration of the test between 26 and 27c, I was hitting a Peak of 90.3c, with an Average of 89.4c for my tDie. For those curious, this test was done with the Alphacool Eisblock on the 3900x, using the Manual Spread Thermal Paste Application Method, using Kryonaut.

Now I switched over my Main Rig, which uses the Crosshair VII Hero, over to the 3950x, and mounted the Brand New Optimus AM4 Foundation block. Again I am Using Thermal Grizzly's Kryonaut, manually spread across the IHS. Unfortunately I didn't take the time to reorganize HWinfo, so some of the sensors displayed had changed, but the Temps and Current were still there for the Screenshot. I tested for Over 60 Minutes total, but the Screenshot you are about to see was taken about 7 Minutes into a new Test, that I reset the HWinfo data on before starting it. Using the same BBP Test. Because we are using a completely different chip now, I played with the Voltage until I got the current as close as possible. For this test the Clock Speed was not relevant, I just set the Clock speed to 4.1Ghz so I could continue to lower the Voltage without worrying about Crashing. I ended up settling in at 1.231v under full load (which with a LLC of 4, means I set the Vcore to 1.25v in Bios.) As seen in the Screen shot, this resulted in an Average of 112amps for the duration of this test, with a Peak Current much higher then the 3900x, of 121amps. My Room Ambient was also higher for this test, measuring 28c for the duration of this test, putting it 1 to 2c higher then for the first test. Also, rather interestingly, even though I added 2 Right Angle Fittings into this loop, both on the New Block, The Old Block I did not use Right Angle Fittings on, but my Flow Rate actually went up, from an Average of 152 l/h With the Eis Block, to an Average of 168 l/h with the Optimus. So it would seem their claims about being less restrictive appears to be true, at least when talking about my One Sample of Each Block.

Here is the Screen shot of the HWinfo Data from the 3950x + Optimus AM4 Foundation Block Test:


Spoiler















So as you can see, this time I had an Average Tdie Temp of 85.8c, with a Max of 86c, and the Current and Room Temperature were both just a tad higher. This shows, that at least in my case, it appears that when compared to my EisBlock, the Optimus is about 5c Cooler. And this was with Generating only about 111-112 Amps in this one Test where the Current fluctuates substantially. Chances are, if I were to torture my New CPU with Prime 95 Small FFT's AVX, like some of the others posting their results have done, and tested with the Current at around 180amps or more, Chances are the Differences would be even more Significant. But for my use case, I am not likely to push the current on my chip about 130amps in my every day workload, and I would say for that workload, this block is most definitely a significant improvement, and I would highly Recommend. I ran tests with an Average of 130amps, and Then My tdie finally hit 89c on average, with a Room Temperature of 28c, so considering thats 1 degree lower then my original test with the 3900x, and significantly more CPU Horsepower, I have to say this block is definitely a win!

10 Out of 10, Would Recommend!


----------



## Section31

Sign me up for one more block (my friend is going for it) and more fittings order (12mm)


----------



## knightriot

oreonutz said:


> OK, Got my New Optimus AM4 Foundation block a few days ago, along with my 3950x. I promised in depth testing in my lab, but I got buried in projects at work, I didn't even get to install my new Chip and Block until a few hours ago. I skipped my lab, I am sorry, I will do more in depth testing soon, hopefully around the Christmas break when I have time.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did do, to get a decent A/B Comparison was run a Stress Test using Y-Cruncher's BBP Digit Extraction Stress Test for 5 Minutes on each Chip, This is an AVX2 Floating Point workload. Because I was switching chips in between, my goal was to match the amount of current being pushed out on average for both Chips. I already have the 3900x Locked at 4.2Ghz, and 1.275v under full load. For this test, instead of breaking out the Current Clamp, I am using HWinfo exclusively, using the SVI2 TFN Sensor to measure CPU Current. For the Duration of the 5 Minutes test, with a polling rate of 1ms, using an Average Samples size of 20 Samples, I was consistently averaging about 111amps for the 3900x as pictured by the screenshot taken approximately 5 minutes and 30 seconds into the test.
> 
> Screenshot of HWinfo Data of 3900x with AlphaCool EisBlock:
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So as you can see from the Screenshot, with my 3900x averaging about 111amps for the duration of the test, a peak current of 115amps, with the Room Ambient Fluctuating for the duration of the test between 26 and 27c, I was hitting a Peak of 90.3c, with an Average of 89.4c for my tDie. For those curious, this test was done with the Alphacool Eisblock on the 3900x, using the Manual Spread Thermal Paste Application Method, using Kryonaut.
> 
> Now I switched over my Main Rig, which uses the Crosshair VII Hero, over to the 3950x, and mounted the Brand New Optimus AM4 Foundation block. Again I am Using Thermal Grizzly's Kryonaut, manually spread across the IHS. Unfortunately I didn't take the time to reorganize HWinfo, so some of the sensors displayed had changed, but the Temps and Current were still there for the Screenshot. I tested for Over 60 Minutes total, but the Screenshot you are about to see was taken about 7 Minutes into a new Test, that I reset the HWinfo data on before starting it. Using the same BBP Test. Because we are using a completely different chip now, I played with the Voltage until I got the current as close as possible. For this test the Clock Speed was not relevant, I just set the Clock speed to 4.1Ghz so I could continue to lower the Voltage without worrying about Crashing. I ended up settling in at 1.231v under full load (which with a LLC of 4, means I set the Vcore to 1.25v in Bios.) As seen in the Screen shot, this resulted in an Average of 112amps for the duration of this test, with a Peak Current much higher then the 3900x, of 121amps. My Room Ambient was also higher for this test, measuring 28c for the duration of this test, putting it 1 to 2c higher then for the first test. Also, rather interestingly, even though I added 2 Right Angle Fittings into this loop, both on the New Block, The Old Block I did not use Right Angle Fittings on, but my Flow Rate actually went up, from an Average of 152 l/h With the Eis Block, to an Average of 168 l/h with the Optimus. So it would seem their claims about being less restrictive appears to be true, at least when talking about my One Sample of Each Block.
> 
> Here is the Screen shot of the HWinfo Data from the 3950x + Optimus AM4 Foundation Block Test:
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So as you can see, this time I had an Average Tdie Temp of 85.8c, with a Max of 86c, and the Current and Room Temperature were both just a tad higher. This shows, that at least in my case, it appears that when compared to my EisBlock, the Optimus is about 5c Cooler. And this was with Generating only about 111-112 Amps in this one Test where the Current fluctuates substantially. Chances are, if I were to torture my New CPU with Prime 95 Small FFT's AVX, like some of the others posting their results have done, and tested with the Current at around 180amps or more, Chances are the Differences would be even more Significant. But for my use case, I am not likely to push the current on my chip about 130amps in my every day workload, and I would say for that workload, this block is most definitely a significant improvement, and I would highly Recommend. I ran tests with an Average of 130amps, and Then My tdie finally hit 89c on average, with a Room Temperature of 28c, so considering thats 1 degree lower then my original test with the 3900x, and significantly more CPU Horsepower, I have to say this block is definitely a win!
> 
> 10 Out of 10, Would Recommend!


Hello dude , can i ask about your alphacool block direction? I use same your block , in night i have 29*c room temp too , and i have result:
3950x @ 4.1 @ 1.23v llc3: 








3950x @ 4.2 @ 1.28v llc3: 








this is mine direction:








Thanks for your share


----------



## oreonutz

knightriot said:


> Hello dude , can i ask about your alphacool block direction? I use same your block , in night i have 29*c room temp too , and i have result:
> 3950x @ 4.1 @ 1.23v llc3:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3950x @ 4.2 @ 1.28v llc3:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is mine direction:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your share


Nice Result!

But to answer your question my Alphacool block was installed on my 3900x in the exact same orientation as your picture. (My Eisblock was never installed on my 3950x)

So Its incredibly hard to compare results made under different test conditions, its something we should almost never do. Its fun to do, and to look at data points from others, but to compare my result to your result has many variables as to why one result might be better. You would have to take my block and my Chip, put it in your board, and test under the exact same conditions to get good comparable data, and even then variables would need to be controlled for.

For instance, we are running 2 different motherboards, even though they are both ASUS, the Sensors used to measure Current and other readings are not identical. On Top of that, I am running 1900Mhz FCLK with an SOCv of 1.125v where as you are running an FCLK of 1800Mhz with an SOCv of 1.081v which contributes to less heat on the IO Die, not to mention the differences in the Voltage our Memory Controller's are using, and finally even the test we are running. We are both using YCruncher, but I am using only BBP, where as yours is cycling across a few different tests which means a higher amount of variability. Even if you were running just the one test it would still be hard to compare because of all the different variables between our setups, but to be sure that should not take away from the awesome result you are achieving!

This was more to compare my particular setup, from one block to the next, and unfortunately its not even a perfect test because I switched chips at the same time I switched blocks, but I controlled as much as I could for every other variable, and I think the data does lead me to conclude that the Optimus Block under the same load transfers heat more efficiently. But as I said, as soon as I can move the block over into my lab to do some more testing under more ideal conditions I will release better data if any one is interested.

To be sure, I still love my Eisblock, its getting moved to permanent test bed duty for now.


----------



## Shawnb99

Any issues if I install the Signature block upside down?
Case is reverse ATX so everything is already upside down


----------



## skupples

is it symmetrical?

I'm gonna go on a limb here, if in is still in, and out is still out, just like any other block. shouldn't matter.


----------



## Shawnb99

Thanks, kinda figured.


----------



## Keith Myers

Finally, UPS showed up after 4PM. Just put the new 3950X through 3 cycles of the y-cruncher stress test. Highest temps were in the BBP and SFT tests. Was running locked at 4.2Ghz @ 1.26V. I hit a max temp of 80.5 during the SFT runs and was pulling 180A 150A and Vcore drooped to 1.21V minimum. I don't have HWinfo so I just watched sensors and looked for the peak values. Think it should handle my normal BOINC workload easily.


----------



## ugotd8

Keith Myers said:


> Finally, UPS showed up after 4PM. Just put the new 3950X through 3 cycles of the y-cruncher stress test. Highest temps were in the BBP and SFT tests. Was running locked at 4.2Ghz @ 1.26V. I hit a max temp of 80.5 during the SFT runs and was pulling 180A and Vcore drooped to 1.21V minimum. I don't have HWinfo so I just watched sensors and looked for the peak values. Think it should handle my normal BOINC workload easily.


Nice! I just ran y-cruncher thru a series of tests as well (all core 4.3Ghz @ 1.32) and topped out at 140A. Was going to post screenshots (since I was only hitting 70c) and then thought maybe I'm not doing an all core OC correctly on this thing since I'm not drawing the same power as you.


----------



## Keith Myers

ugotd8 said:


> Nice! I just ran y-cruncher thru a series of tests as well (all core 4.3Ghz @ 1.32) and topped out at 140A. Was going to post screenshots (since I was only hitting 70c) and then thought maybe I'm not doing an all core OC correctly on this thing since I'm not drawing the same power as you.


I see I goofed. I hit 150A NOT 180A. Typo. Sorry.


----------



## ugotd8

Keith Myers said:


> I see I goofed. I hit 150A NOT 180A. Typo. Sorry.


Thank you, yeah I've been scratching my head about this. Everything I read says just set the multiplier and vcore for an all core overclock. I was thinking maybe I needed to increase the PPT and EDC limits as well.


----------



## Keith Myers

Yes, that is correct. I have not played with the default PPT values in the BIOS. I'm hitting a better all-core overclock than can be achieved on Auto. I set my multiplier and then add in a +offset to get to the Vcore value that is close to what Auto sets on all-core loads. Then adjust accordingly downward to get to a stable Vcore that is able to handle the loading and achieve much lower temps than what Auto achieves.

[Edit]


> On SKUs belonging to the 105W TDP infrastructure group, the default limiters are following: PPT 141.75W, TDC 95A, EDC 140A and tJMax of 85Â°C (absolute, excl. offset)


----------



## ugotd8

Keith Myers said:


> Yes, that is correct. I have not played with the default PPT values in the BIOS. I'm hitting a better all-core overclock than can be achieved on Auto. I set my multiplier and then add in a +offset to get to the Vcore value that is close to what Auto sets on all-core loads. Then adjust accordingly downward to get to a stable Vcore that is able to handle the loading and achieve much lower temps than what Auto achieves.
> 
> [Edit]


A very wise approach. After fighting with per-ccd OC'ng and ending up with too much vcore and really high temps I reset defaults this morning and tried your approach. So far so good, this block is doing it's job very well. I can't compare to other blocks since this is my first X570/Ryzen 9 setup but I think my temps are good. Here's where I am now, 43 multiplier, +0.1375 offset, seems like there is more headroom here:


----------



## lightsout

ugotd8 said:


> A very wise approach. After fighting with per-ccd OC'ng and ending up with too much vcore and really high temps I reset defaults this morning and tried your approach. So far so good, this block is doing it's job very well. I can't compare to other blocks since this is my first X570/Ryzen 9 setup but I think my temps are good. Here's where I am now, 43 multiplier, +0.1375 offset, seems like there is more headroom here:


I've never seen that y-cruncher, what exactly do you use it for? Stressing or benching?


----------



## Keith Myers

lightsout said:


> I've never seen that y-cruncher, what exactly do you use it for? Stressing or benching?


Both. Just another stressor in comparison to Prime95. Has more variety in stressing algorithms. Has AVX2 instructions where Prime tops out with just AVX. As a bencher, gives realistic values for changes in both memory clocks and latencies and cpu clocks.


----------



## lightsout

Keith Myers said:


> Both. Just another stressor in comparison to Prime95. Has more variety in stressing algorithms. Has AVX2 instructions where Prime tops out with just AVX. As a bencher, gives realistic values for changes in both memory clocks and latencies and cpu clocks.


Any links to best ways to use it?


----------



## Keith Myers

ugotd8 said:


> A very wise approach. After fighting with per-ccd OC'ng and ending up with too much vcore and really high temps I reset defaults this morning and tried your approach. So far so good, this block is doing it's job very well. I can't compare to other blocks since this is my first X570/Ryzen 9 setup but I think my temps are good. Here's where I am now, 43 multiplier, +0.1375 offset, seems like there is more headroom here:


Great low Vcore which leads to great temps. I think I have some leeway myself in dropping Vcore on my 3950X too. I just took a couple swings downward from my previous setting for my 3900X. But of course, just when I make the switch my main stressor, Seti cpu loads disappear with the major upset at the project. Will wait till I get my normal workload back before I take a couple more swings at lowering the Vcore.


----------



## Keith Myers

lightsout said:


> Any links to best ways to use it?


You can just use the most stressful algorithm's which are BBR and SFT which are AVX2 instructions. Or use the entire testing suite which is from the main menu, Stress testing and let it run through ten or more iterations. The full testing suite lets the cpu decompress from the AVX2 loads with some easier tests before hammering the cpu again in the next iteration. That would replicate typical variable desktop workloads. That is if you actually use all the cpu threads for your normal business, scientific or creation workloads and not just a few hours of gaming or whatever.
[Edit]
There is the Command lines.txt file which gives various examples of command line parameters. But honestly, just invoking the main program gui and selecting from the menu is easiest.


----------



## JustinThyme

They look like nice blocks, at first glance with no name on it Id have sworn HK IV Pro.
Im anxious to see some shoot outs with other top names. HK, EK and aquacomputer. Just looked at their 2080Ti block. Looks very nice but holy moly at the price tag! 

They say they are the best in the industry but......so does everyone else.
Either5 way very nice looking products, just need some independent shoot outs.


----------



## Optimus WC

JustinThyme said:


> They look like nice blocks, at first glance with no name on it Id have sworn HK IV Pro.
> Im anxious to see some shoot outs with other top names. HK, EK and aquacomputer. Just looked at their 2080Ti block. Looks very nice but holy moly at the price tag!
> 
> They say they are the best in the industry but......so does everyone else.
> Either5 way very nice looking products, just need some independent shoot outs.



Glad ya like our blocks so far! We're new, though the responses have been awesome from the early adopters who took a risk on us. And I hear ya about all the marketing talk. We're working on getting professional reviewers to take a look at our blocks and products, but we're new, so it takes some time.

As for pricing, there are reasons why our stuff costs more, and it's not because it's made in the US. We could match other prices if we went with the same quality. But we stand by our 10 year warranty (could be longer, honestly). Super corrosion resistant nickel, super crack resistant acrylic, zero plasticizer, lots of new tech that requires extra manufacturing time. Our cold plates probably take 10x the time to make than other cold plates. Our acrylic machining is 2-5x others. Our nickel takes more time and is more expensive. Our ports and fittings meet true BSPP-G1/4" spec. Lots of things we do to make sure the products perform as they should. 

Really, we wanted to make the best possible and felt that when building a top system (or even a reasonable system) spending a little more to have top performance and top reliability is worth it. At least, that's our feeling  

As for comparisons, here's a rough running list of tests from people here and around the web:

"Holy cow, finished installing the block and got 7C drop from the Phanteks under load on the 3950X, really happy with it, AMAZING Block" https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-37.html#post28244514

"I did drop about 5-6c with this block compared to both the EK Velocity and the heatkiller pro IV, so GREAT BLOCK HERE..." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-35.html#post28243710

"As a guess, from the temps I am seeing now, I will achieve the 5-6° that Optimus says they see in their tests." from here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/11-a...l#post28236042

"...it appears that when compared to my EisBlock, the Optimus is about 5c Cooler." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-40.html#post28245770

"...So, my take away from these temps is this new block probably lowers the temps by about 4 C..." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-w...l#post28236704

"The upgrade is 3-4degrees it appears. They have screenshots how 3900X performed on there test bench...I did notice the flow rate for the block was much better than the heatkiller, it went up by 0.9-1 L/min." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-w...l#post28226818


*USER BENCHMARKS FROM REDDIT:* 

https://www.reddit.com/r/watercoolin...ck_yes_please/

"...it's stellar. The full coverage of the chiplets on the Ryzen 3900X definitely makes a difference vs corsair xc7 and ekwb velocity (which were the roughly the same performance)..."
"...I would say I see a ~3-5c (sometimes even higher) difference in all workloads as well as idle..."


https://www.reddit.com/r/watercoolin...ck_comparison/

"Did more testing. The Optimus does out perform the Heatkiller on 3700x by about 4 degrees.
Optimus: 58-61
Heatkiller: 63-65
Noctua U12A: 66-70"

Finally, test from PPCs using the Signature block. Also, an attempt to crack our acrylic


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> They look like nice blocks, at first glance with no name on it Id have sworn HK IV Pro.
> Im anxious to see some shoot outs with other top names. HK, EK and aquacomputer. Just looked at their 2080Ti block. Looks very nice but holy moly at the price tag!
> 
> They say they are the best in the industry but......so does everyone else.
> Either5 way very nice looking products, just need some independent shoot outs.


I think optimus mentioned they were sending to reviewers. That’s probably what you are waiting for.

Also its good to have more brands out there. Pricing is tough for made in usa but hate to lose more companies that serve enuthiast markets like caselabs.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I think optimus mentioned they were sending to reviewers. That’s probably what you are waiting for.
> 
> Also its good to have more brands out there. Pricing is tough for made in usa but hate to lose more companies that serve enuthiast markets like caselabs.


Caselabs was a good company. They stated the cost of the steel and tarriffs causing raw materials to go up by 80% but with the margin they had in it Im not buying it and not buying an 80% tariff either knowing what cold rolled steel goes for and aluminum goes for and the fact the tariff was only 10% and necessary. Something else was at work there. They had some of the highest prices out there and companies with MUCH lower rice points are still in the game. Being a Ca company they wanted to blame what they could on politics but bottom line is they screwed the pooch and extended too much to a major account and got the shaft as well as oterh poor business decisions. Been there and done that. At one time I owned a lucrative Electrical Construction and industrials controls business. Had more than $500K past due with Simplex Grinnell. When they went 90 days past due I knew the end was near. Then at 120 days they filed bankruptcy (all planned well in advance) and was bought by Tyco International the next day who didnt pave to pay the debts. I was able to liquidate and break even and still own mechanincs leans on the buildings the work was done it which will eventually have to pay out. They so much as expand or sell out and they have to settle the liens. I pay my $25 on each lien Including 60 story BOA headquarters in Charlotte NC every 7 years to keep it active and have instructed my kids to do the same as one day this will be a big pay day as the price also rides on the cost of commercial real estate. None of those places are happy about it either because they paid Simplex for the work. 

Looking att he 5 year aluminium market......that wasnt it. It was actually on a downhill slope.


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> Glad ya like our blocks so far! We're new, though the responses have been awesome from the early adopters who took a risk on us. And I hear ya about all the marketing talk. We're working on getting professional reviewers to take a look at our blocks and products, but we're new, so it takes some time.
> 
> As for pricing, there are reasons why our stuff costs more, and it's not because it's made in the US. We could match other prices if we went with the same quality. But we stand by our 10 year warranty (could be longer, honestly). Super corrosion resistant nickel, super crack resistant acrylic, zero plasticizer, lots of new tech that requires extra manufacturing time. Our cold plates probably take 10x the time to make than other cold plates. Our acrylic machining is 2-5x others. Our nickel takes more time and is more expensive. Our ports and fittings meet true BSPP-G1/4" spec. Lots of things we do to make sure the products perform as they should.
> 
> Really, we wanted to make the best possible and felt that when building a top system (or even a reasonable system) spending a little more to have top performance and top reliability is worth it. At least, that's our feeling
> 
> As for comparisons, here's a rough running list of tests from people here and around the web:
> 
> "Holy cow, finished installing the block and got 7C drop from the Phanteks under load on the 3950X, really happy with it, AMAZING Block" https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-37.html#post28244514
> 
> "I did drop about 5-6c with this block compared to both the EK Velocity and the heatkiller pro IV, so GREAT BLOCK HERE..." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-35.html#post28243710
> 
> "As a guess, from the temps I am seeing now, I will achieve the 5-6° that Optimus says they see in their tests." from here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/11-a...l#post28236042
> 
> "...it appears that when compared to my EisBlock, the Optimus is about 5c Cooler." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-40.html#post28245770
> 
> "...So, my take away from these temps is this new block probably lowers the temps by about 4 C..." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-w...l#post28236704
> 
> "The upgrade is 3-4degrees it appears. They have screenshots how 3900X performed on there test bench...I did notice the flow rate for the block was much better than the heatkiller, it went up by 0.9-1 L/min." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-w...l#post28226818
> 
> 
> *USER BENCHMARKS FROM REDDIT:*
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercoolin...ck_yes_please/
> 
> "...it's stellar. The full coverage of the chiplets on the Ryzen 3900X definitely makes a difference vs corsair xc7 and ekwb velocity (which were the roughly the same performance)..."
> "...I would say I see a ~3-5c (sometimes even higher) difference in all workloads as well as idle..."
> 
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercoolin...ck_comparison/
> 
> "Did more testing. The Optimus does out perform the Heatkiller on 3700x by about 4 degrees.
> Optimus: 58-61
> Heatkiller: 63-65
> Noctua U12A: 66-70"
> 
> Finally, test from PPCs using the Signature block. Also, an attempt to crack our acrylic
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxBknBlpOJM&feature=youtu.be&t=579


Do yourself a favor and DONT use Matt O as a reference. OK to use them as a retailer but be careful. This guy said that EK and HK bought their designs from Barrow to make a sale and yes I have documentation to back that up. Also threw Byski under the bus but now reps them.

Send samples to Igors labs. He is about as fair and impartial as them come. If you come out on top will get my business but its not going to be over something PPCs produced.

A good bit of your links are dead.

What Id really like to see is a shoot out among EK, HK, Aquacomputer and Optimus. The rest just dont matter. Good luck with your introduction. My only chance would be the CPU segment to try out as Im more than sure you wont be chasing custom PCBs on GPUs at least for some time. Aquacomputer being one of the better products still doesnt.

Regardless looks like solid construction and good design from what I can see. Anything done on HEDT segment yet with HCC CPUs? Wnass show it off go for it with 18 cores with blender or similar for a load.


----------



## Krisztias

Dear Optimus!

I would like to order the AMD Foundation Block shipped to Europe, but the only shipping method is the DHL International on the website for ~100USD. Is there any other way? I don't want to pay 100$ for shipping when the Block costs 134$.
Thank you.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> They look like nice blocks, at first glance with no name on it Id have sworn HK IV Pro.
> Im anxious to see some shoot outs with other top names. HK, EK and aquacomputer. Just looked at their 2080Ti block. Looks very nice but holy moly at the price tag!
> 
> They say they are the best in the industry but......so does everyone else.
> Either5 way very nice looking products, just need some independent shoot outs.


Hi,
Plexi top would of ruled out heatkiller 4 pro immediately not to mention inlet/ outlet orientation
Optimus is the same as ek with a vertical water spray 
Heatkiller 4 pro have horizontal water spray which I find works well 
Either can be rotated obviously
At least optimus has a copper plexi as standard :thumb:


----------



## mgoldb2

Optimus WC said:


> Right on! We're a little away from Threadripper release, though we have a bunch more info here on our preorder page. Our surface area example attached is vs the current leader out there  When we do release the block (hopefully mid-late dec) we'll definitely want some comparisons!
> 
> https://optimuspc.com/products/absolute-cpu-block-threadripper-3
> 
> Also, here's the benchmark of how we do vs HK by PPCs, which matches our other benchmarks for other CPUs:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxBknBlpOJM&feature=youtu.be&t=579


Do you have any estimates when this would ship if I pre-ordered today? I got a 3970X Processor arriving today and interested in your waterblock but not if we talking many months before I could get my hands on it.


----------



## skupples

JustinThyme said:


> They look like nice blocks, at first glance with no name on it Id have sworn HK IV Pro.
> Im anxious to see some shoot outs with other top names. HK, EK and aquacomputer. Just looked at their 2080Ti block. Looks very nice but holy moly at the price tag!
> 
> They say they are the best in the industry but......so does everyone else.
> Either5 way very nice looking products, just need some independent shoot outs.


EK's already getting blown away by Aquacomp & HK 

as to custom pcb blocks, it would be nice, but the nicest chips end up on FE boards anyways, at least it seem this way. what does 99 phase matter if the FE + water runs the same clocks?  unless you're into ln2 pots.


----------



## Optimus WC

mgoldb2 said:


> Do you have any estimates when this would ship if I pre-ordered today? I got a 3970X Processor arriving today and interested in your waterblock but not if we talking many months before I could get my hands on it.


Hey there, it's looking like a few weeks until you would get yours, we're making and testing the prototypes now, going for incredible performance on the 3970x. And 3990x when it lands


----------



## Optimus WC

Krisztias said:


> Dear Optimus!
> 
> I would like to order the AMD Foundation Block shipped to Europe, but the only shipping method is the DHL International on the website for ~100USD. Is there any other way? I don't want to pay 100$ for shipping when the Block costs 134$.
> Thank you.


Yeah shipping is brutal for sure. DHL is the most reliable, we've found. USPS takes too long to deliver. 

We should have EU distribution set up in January so then you can get everything local.


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> EK's already getting blown away by Aquacomp & HK
> 
> as to custom pcb blocks, it would be nice, but the nicest chips end up on FE boards anyways, at least it seem this way. what does 99 phase matter if the FE + water runs the same clocks?  unless you're into ln2 pots.


We'll be doing custom blocks, the requests for Kingpin blocks have been significant lol And Strix. Really, for us, once we get up to speed with our GPU platform, making custom versions will be faster than typical. There are benefits to being in Chicago  And Industry 4.0 and all that. 

Re: reference PCBs, we've noticed a decent difference between cards. Some 2080Tis with our blocks get 2205, others 2145. The silicon lottery is strong with NVIDIA.

Speaking of which, does anyone think there's a market for getting your cards waterblocked by Optimus? Like send in your card, buy a block, get it installed? Or to have blocked cards ready to ship direct from the Optimus farm.


----------



## skupples

well that's good news  waiting months for the trickle of after market pcb blocks is always quite annoying. i usually fold & go ref instead of waiting 3+ months. Not sure how quickly they got it down with pascal or turing, i've had my head in the sand. 

the pre-blocked deal may pan out once you have some name recognition. 

seems like EK stopped innovating after they started landing the contracts where their stuff shipped from OEM w. blocks. errr mrr grrrd, n those swiftech komodo blocks -.-


----------



## Krisztias

Optimus WC said:


> Yeah shipping is brutal for sure. DHL is the most reliable, we've found. USPS takes too long to deliver.
> 
> We should have EU distribution set up in January so then you can get everything local.


That's great! Thank you!


----------



## Optimus WC

JustinThyme said:


> Regardless looks like solid construction and good design from what I can see. Anything done on HEDT segment yet with HCC CPUs? Wnass show it off go for it with 18 cores with blender or similar for a load.


Hey thanks for the feedback, good to know  

Our roots are in professional liquid cooling for AI/ML and rendering systems. We have internal numbers with Intel's 18 cores vs competitors for different platforms. Basically, whatever customers needed to test. 

Most of our products started out for AI/ML companies doing edge AI in deserts and coasts. Every other brand of liquid cooling completely fell apart. So if we wanted the contracts, we had to prove our products both A) lasted forever and B) had top performance. That's what we were up to since we launched the V1 two years ago. So our acrylic reservoirs and nickel products are made to survive insane environments. And since it's pro, they need that 24/7 rock solid performance, not dRGBs or whatever. 

As we get bigger, we'll really push the HEDT market, that's our big passion. So true pro workstations, bomb proof reliability, easy servicing, etc. glass panels don't matter. Home user performance is important, but there are so many professionals who live by their systems and need better than what's available, especially the mid range users with budgets to buy Titan RTX or quad/7x 2080Tis but realize blowers or air isn't going to work. And the workstation SIs out there aren't using liquid in a reasonable way. Like flaking nickel or cracked acrylic isn't going to cut it for a render house or ML shop. And Apple is doing Apple. 

But that's our longer range goal. Right now we're working Christmas and new years and every weekend and every night to ship our current products


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Were there any discount codes ?


----------



## skupples

fingers crossed on 2080ti coppers shipping in january?


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Were there any discount codes ?


Yup! PPC is running a Christmas discount on Optimus and other items through the 27th: https://mailchi.mp/performance-pcs/...e4iAVZBBALW_gNnf0QkznFRlIPMtsGOFqG1f8bAtMHwXI


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Yup! PPC is running a Christmas discount on Optimus and other items through the 27th: https://mailchi.mp/performance-pcs/...e4iAVZBBALW_gNnf0QkznFRlIPMtsGOFqG1f8bAtMHwXI


Hi,
No your website.


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> fingers crossed on 2080ti coppers shipping in january?


100%. We're making them right now. Like literally right this instant.


----------



## Keith Myers

> Speaking of which, does anyone think there's a market for getting your cards waterblocked by Optimus? Like send in your card, buy a block, get it installed? Or to have blocked cards ready to ship direct from the Optimus farm.


I'm sure there is a need and a market for such a service. I have seen many posts from crunchers saying they would own a blocked gpu if the daunting task of installing the block could be avoided. Comments typically are "too many screws to remove" and " my eyes and hands don't work so well anymore" and they would take advantage of a service installing the block on their card.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
PPC don't have the black aluminum trim on the copper plexi Intel


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> PPC don't have the black aluminum trim on the copper plexi Intel


Ah, that's right, they'll get that in shortly. We added that more recently because it was requested all the time


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Ah, that's right, they'll get that in shortly. We added that more recently because it was requested all the time


Hi,
Thanks 
Order done :thumb:


----------



## newls1

PPC'S website is a slow and utterly cluttered mess...


----------



## ThrashZone

newls1 said:


> PPC'S website is a slow and utterly cluttered mess...


Hi,
There is that too


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Speaking of which, does anyone think there's a market for getting your cards waterblocked by Optimus? Like send in your card, buy a block, get it installed? Or to have blocked cards ready to ship direct from the Optimus farm.




I’d be interested in sending my GPU to you to install the block.
Likely more would be interested in installing the block themselves but I’m sure there’s a few who’d want you to install it.


----------



## skupples

newls1 said:


> PPC'S website is a slow and utterly cluttered mess...


last one looked like it was designed by a high school student, now this one looks like it was designed by the third world -.-


----------



## skupples

you're awesome, though I rather not have any egg nogs stains on my block  jk jk

in other random news - windows 1909 or whatever it is isn't playing nice with android fast boot, so I just bricked my shield. woohoo!

i'm "on call" until 8:30 *(1.5 time)* so i'm making proper use of it


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
UPS just delivered my rma replacement 9940x 
So I'll get some temps off of it using the heatkiller 4 pro 
Then put on the optimus copper plexi when ever i get it 

I don't expect a lot of difference but i will rotate the optimus so jet is horizontal because the HK and 9940x does like that position in the past hell even my 5930k likes that position too


----------



## Optimus WC

Keith Myers said:


> I'm sure there is a need and a market for such a service. I have seen many posts from crunchers saying they would own a blocked gpu if the daunting task of installing the block could be avoided. Comments typically are "too many screws to remove" and " my eyes and hands don't work so well anymore" and they would take advantage of a service installing the block on their card.


Yeah great point. Even better if NVIDIA sold raw PCBs


----------



## skupples

^^ in a perfect world. I'd even NOT complain about paying the same price.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Heck I'd be happy if a company made custom ordered gpu blocks 
Being an evga ftw3 junky I can usually only be sure evga will have a hydro copper for them and oddly it's nickle plated :/

I rather like installing blocks myself though but I'm sure other newbies might rather have a r & r option.


----------



## Keith Myers

I've only done one so far. And it was intimidating. Wasn't sure how to take off the air cooler as the images didn't match what I saw in my hand. The instructions were too simplified and were missing a critical step. Had to call EVGA Tech Support for answers and instructions. Bad temps the first time I put it together. Had to take it apart again and try reassembling it hopefully correctly the next time. So for a first timer, pretty scary procedure. Dozens of tiny little screws and was grateful for a tiny screwdriver set I got for a present once or it would not have even been possible.


----------



## skupples

I still take my sweet time, because when I don't, I biff the mount somehow.


----------



## J7SC

skupples said:


> ^^ in a perfect world. I'd even NOT complain about paying the same price.


 
Speaking of NVidia blocks, I noticed some new Bitspower 2080 TI side-mounted w-cool barb connectors (at 7min40s in the vid below)...After some earlier quad SLI 980 w-cool mounting wars I went through, I do appreciate that. Perhaps next gen custom 2080 Ti (or 3080 Ti ?) blocks by select suppliers can have *both* top and side-mounted, giving a project build more options


----------



## mgoldb2

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, it's looking like a few weeks until you would get yours, we're making and testing the prototypes now, going for incredible performance on the 3970x. And 3990x when it lands


Sounds good, I can wait a few weeks, just did not want it to be a few months. I went ahead and ordered one. looking forward to receiving it.


----------



## skupples

woah that's weird rear mounted ports directly into the block. makes sense for distribution plate centered builds, which 99.99% of showcase builds are these days. 

At least there's no terminal to slowly strip threads on


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> EK's already getting blown away by Aquacomp & HK
> 
> as to custom pcb blocks, it would be nice, but the nicest chips end up on FE boards anyways, at least it seem this way. what does 99 phase matter if the FE + water runs the same clocks?  unless you're into ln2 pots.


Yeah True, EK is a thing of the Past as far as Im concerned. 
My luck with FE boards have not been as good as yours. Last two iterations I tried I was luky to get stock clocks. 2080Ti FE topped out at 1900 where Strix boards got 2150.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> skupples said:
> 
> 
> 
> EK's already getting blown away by Aquacomp & HK /forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif
> 
> as to custom pcb blocks, it would be nice, but the nicest chips end up on FE boards anyways, at least it seem this way. what does 99 phase matter if the FE + water runs the same clocks? /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif unless you're into ln2 pots.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah True, EK is a thing of the Past as far as Im concerned.
> My luck with FE boards have not been as good as yours. Last two iterations I tried I was luky to get stock clocks. 2080Ti FE topped out at 1900 where Strix boards got 2150.
Click to expand...

I found founders to be of the best. The aibs pcb and cooling solutions endup causing the gpu to be massive (sometimes too massive for cases) and dont yield significant gains.

Also Nvidia warranty is better than people realize, according to the nvidia senior staff at intel now, there warranty department rarely checks rma gpu for people who installed waterblocks and something happened to it.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Also Nvidia warranty is better than people realize, according to the nvidia senior staff at intel now, there warranty department rarely checks rma gpu for people who installed waterblocks and something happened to it.




Thanks for that info, never knew that about Nivida. As far as I know only EVGA offers that.
Glad to know. 
I won’t consider other brands just for that reason. GPU’s die to much to ever void the warranty.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I found founders to be of the best. The aibs pcb and cooling solutions endup causing the gpu to be massive (sometimes too massive for cases) and dont yield significant gains.
> 
> Also Nvidia warranty is better than people realize, according to the nvidia senior staff at intel now, there warranty department rarely checks rma gpu for people who installed waterblocks and something happened to it.


Cant speak for everywhere but in the US ASUS does not void the warranty for installing waterblocks for a few years now. ""Your warranty shall not be void if any warranty seals are altered, tampered, or removed" Ive been fortunate enough to not to have ever RMAd or had to make a warranty claim on anything. I think my gains are pretty significant.

https://www.3dmark.com/spy/6182114

No FE cards in the same compare group. Only Galax cards on LN2. 

One thing the FE PCBs have going for them is they always have the first blocks available and a lot more to choose from. I had to wait for a few months running on air which sucks for any 2080Ti as they all run hot and first one I tried when someone with sales at PPCs fed me a line of BS what a Barrow and what a fail that was, like in a major way. Warped block, unrefined machining, didnt even bother to debur. Block missed contact with most of the VRMs and left me bleeding. TT blocks are a joke at best. I was going to try bits power as Ive had OK luck with them in the past but there was only one available and I needed two. Phanteks came out with a block that performed quite well and Ive been running a pair of those for quite some time never going over 44C on anything. Now have Heat Killer blocks that are top tier, damn site better than EK blocks that honestly the reviews sucked and even more so the ones they took forever to deliver for the strix cards are just ugly. Havent put them on yet but planning to over the next several days as a few things are getting changed in the mix. Adding 3rd D5 Aquacooling next pump that can be controlled via aquabus (use aquaero 6 for fans and pumps) with two other PWM D5 pumps on a bitspower serial top. Yeah overkill but add that to a pair of 480 rads and a 360 and my temps stay nice and cool and i like the idea of redundancy. Having multiple D5s also allows you to tune them to slightly different speeds where the noise gets cancelled out, Barely hear my fans running at 600 RPMs. 

The downside to the FE cards, specifically the Nvidia is the initial teardown. What a PITA!! My strix cards took 4 screws to remove the heatsink which is beefy as hell and another 81-0 smaller screws for the Vram heatspreader/support bracket and backplate. Im very happy with my choice.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Depends on which level support you talk too 
Nvidia in general does not transfer warranties so just on that note is a no go seeing everyone tends to flip cards a used nvidia card is useless to second buyer.

EVGA only one I know of that does allow transfer of warranty.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Depends on which level support you talk too
> Nvidia in general does not transfer warranties so just on that note is a no go seeing everyone tends to flip cards a used nvidia card is useless to second buyer.
> 
> EVGA only one I know of that does allow transfer of warranty.


Dunno about all that. I generally spend more time reseaching what Im going to buy so I get it right the first time. When I sell off stuff its generally a gen or two old and has no warranty left or if its close I just tell buyer if they have issues to send it back and ill send it off for RMA


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Depends on which level support you talk too
> Nvidia in general does not transfer warranties so just on that note is a no go seeing everyone tends to flip cards a used nvidia card is useless to second buyer.
> 
> EVGA only one I know of that does allow transfer of warranty.


My friend actually got successful rma from the fe gtx1080ti he bought from me. Just pretend to be the buyer. Not that hard.


----------



## skupples

it seems like barrow sends different stuff to the US over EU. IDK how else people can claim they're quality stuff. I mean a solid chunk of "brass" with an o-ring isn't really an issue. it's the other stuff they make that is clearly completely trash.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Copper plexi shipped finally usps so maybe Saturday


----------



## skupples

that's not the nickel plexi i'm looking for 

all seriousness - I know i'm in for a wait. No issues really since I'm building a new desk in my temporary room over the next week or two anyways.  

I decided that I've gotta make some changes if I'm gonna squat here for two years total. First change - 32 inch deep 12 foot long desk running along the windowed wall. I figure I can fashion that for ~$100 via home depot.


----------



## m4fox90

Anybody have the AM4 blocks, how is the performance/quality? I just saw these on PPCS.com, and they seem pretty expensive, up there with EK's RGB stuff


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah TR 3 pre-order blocks 199.99


----------



## Optimus WC

m4fox90 said:


> Anybody have the AM4 blocks, how is the performance/quality? I just saw these on PPCS.com, and they seem pretty expensive, up there with EK's RGB stuff


Hey there, as for comparisons, here's a rough running list of tests from people here and around the web:

"Holy cow, finished installing the block and got 7C drop from the Phanteks under load on the 3950X, really happy with it, AMAZING Block" http://bit.ly/2Qtvhvo

"...without a DOUBT, the Optimus Block Outperforms Every AM4 Block I currently have... in Every Single Test I have run, the Optimus Outperforms the Eisblock by between 4 and 6c. The More Amps I push the chip, the bigger Difference I can measure..." http://bit.ly/352HHjl

"I did drop about 5-6c with this block compared to both the EK Velocity and the heatkiller pro IV, so GREAT BLOCK HERE..." http://bit.ly/350Liyb

"As a guess, from the temps I am seeing now, I will achieve the 5-6° that Optimus says they see in their tests." from here: http://bit.ly/37oPLfZ

"...it appears that when compared to my EisBlock, the Optimus is about 5c Cooler." http://bit.ly/2QpFj0M

"...So, my take away from these temps is this new block probably lowers the temps by about 4 C..." http://bit.ly/2tPeATw

"The upgrade is 3-4degrees it appears. They have screenshots how 3900X performed on there test bench...I did notice the flow rate for the block was much better than the heatkiller, it went up by 0.9-1 L/min." http://bit.ly/34ZOx99


*USER BENCHMARKS FROM REDDIT:* 

http://bit.ly/35j0BmQ

"...it's stellar. The full coverage of the chiplets on the Ryzen 3900X definitely makes a difference vs corsair xc7 and ekwb velocity (which were the roughly the same performance)..."
"...I would say I see a ~3-5c (sometimes even higher) difference in all workloads as well as idle..."


http://bit.ly/2SweV8b

"Did more testing. The Optimus does out perform the Heatkiller on 3700x by about 4 degrees.
Optimus: 58-61
Heatkiller: 63-65
Noctua U12A: 66-70"

Finally, test from PPCs using the Signature block. Also, an attempt to crack our acrylic


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah TR 3 pre-order blocks 199.99


It's a massive block for a massive CPU


----------



## m4fox90

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, as for comparisons, here's a rough running list of tests from people here and around the web:
> 
> 
> 
> "Holy cow, finished installing the block and got 7C drop from the Phanteks under load on the 3950X, really happy with it, AMAZING Block" https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-37.html#post28244514
> 
> 
> 
> "I did drop about 5-6c with this block compared to both the EK Velocity and the heatkiller pro IV, so GREAT BLOCK HERE..." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-35.html#post28243710
> 
> 
> 
> "As a guess, from the temps I am seeing now, I will achieve the 5-6° that Optimus says they see in their tests." from here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/11-a...l#post28236042
> 
> 
> 
> "...it appears that when compared to my EisBlock, the Optimus is about 5c Cooler." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-40.html#post28245770
> 
> 
> 
> "...So, my take away from these temps is this new block probably lowers the temps by about 4 C..." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-w...l#post28236704
> 
> 
> 
> "The upgrade is 3-4degrees it appears. They have screenshots how 3900X performed on there test bench...I did notice the flow rate for the block was much better than the heatkiller, it went up by 0.9-1 L/min." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-w...l#post28226818
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *USER BENCHMARKS FROM REDDIT:*
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercoolin...ck_yes_please/
> 
> 
> 
> "...it's stellar. The full coverage of the chiplets on the Ryzen 3900X definitely makes a difference vs corsair xc7 and ekwb velocity (which were the roughly the same performance)..."
> 
> "...I would say I see a ~3-5c (sometimes even higher) difference in all workloads as well as idle..."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercoolin...ck_comparison/
> 
> 
> 
> "Did more testing. The Optimus does out perform the Heatkiller on 3700x by about 4 degrees.
> 
> Optimus: 58-61
> 
> Heatkiller: 63-65
> 
> Noctua U12A: 66-70"
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, test from PPCs using the Signature block. Also, an attempt to crack our acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxBknBlpOJM&feature=youtu.be&t=579




That certainly seems impressive. And y’all’s interactivity and responsiveness here is a big credit too, for sure


----------



## skupples

m4fox90 said:


> Anybody have the AM4 blocks, how is the performance/quality? I just saw these on PPCS.com, and they seem pretty expensive, up there with EK's RGB stuff


everything is up there with, and beyond EK stuff, even some alliexpress blocks are trading blows with EK These days. As much as I love the super basic a e s t h e t i c of my supremacy and evo, EK Really needs a serious renovation on how the stuff actually works. 

more so, they seem to be keeping pace with, and usually beating out the actual top performers in the segment.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> m4fox90 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody have the AM4 blocks, how is the performance/quality? I just saw these on PPCS.com, and they seem pretty expensive, up there with EK's RGB stuff
> 
> 
> 
> everything is up there with, and beyond EK stuff, even some alliexpress blocks are trading blows with EK These days. As much as I love the super basic a e s t h e t i c of my supremacy and evo, EK Really needs a serious renovation on how the stuff actually works.
> 
> more so, they seem to be keeping pace with, and usually beating out the actual top performers in the segment. /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Click to expand...

That and i think optimus made heatkiller 2020 product different. They are improving there existing products, which means cpu block and look at there new pump.


----------



## oreonutz

m4fox90 said:


> Anybody have the AM4 blocks, how is the performance/quality? I just saw these on PPCS.com, and they seem pretty expensive, up there with EK's RGB stuff


I've got the AM4 Foundation Block, went with the Nickel Plated Copper Plexi Block. I've had time to run some more tests, am not quite ready to release my data, still validating.

But, without a DOUBT, the Optimus Block Outperforms Every AM4 Block I currently have. I unfortunately do not have a Heat Killer, I know thats a Forum Favorite, but I just have not picked one up to date. I do however have a Alphacool Eisblock, a EKWB Supremacy, an EK MLC-Phoenix (Which is basically a cheaply made Supremacy), and a Corsair XC7. The difference between the EK Blocks and the Corsair Blocks seem to be around a Delta of 2c in Setup in favor of EK. The Eisblock Outperform the Both the Corsair and EK Blocks Pretty consistently, but again the difference is somewhere between 1 and 2c. Then, in Every Single Test I have run, the Optimus Outperforms the Eisblock by between 4 and 6c. The More Amps I push the chip, the bigger Difference I can measure, which should be the case, but with the Eisblock and EK for instance, the difference is still only a degree or 2, which means I have to keep remounting and testing to average my data to get a more accurate result, and its still at most 2c. I have pushed my 3900x on my test bench up to 200w as measured from the EPS Rail on my current clamp (16a at 12v, or about 144a at 1.35v as measured in HWinfo) and its when pushing my chip that far with Y Cruncher, The Highest LLC, Manual 1.35v, no C States or Auto OC at all, that I am able to get repeatable data that puts the Optimus Block ahead by as much as 6c on Average. I still have a bit more testing to do and then I will release my Spreadsheet with all my data for those curious, but there is no doubt at all that the Optimus Block has an actual significant thermal advantage when using it on Dual Chiplet Zen2 CPU.

So to answer your question, the Performance is impressive, and the quality and finish are in my opinion better then the EK Blocks, and a lot better then the Corsair Block. (The Corsair Block is aesthetically nice, but feels plasticy and flimsy to the touch, where as the Optimus Block feels Durable and well made. I hope that helps.


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, as for comparisons, here's a rough running list of tests from people here and around the web:
> 
> "Holy cow, finished installing the block and got 7C drop from the Phanteks under load on the 3950X, really happy with it, AMAZING Block" https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-37.html#post28244514
> 
> "I did drop about 5-6c with this block compared to both the EK Velocity and the heatkiller pro IV, so GREAT BLOCK HERE..." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-35.html#post28243710
> 
> "As a guess, from the temps I am seeing now, I will achieve the 5-6° that Optimus says they see in their tests." from here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/11-a...l#post28236042
> 
> "...it appears that when compared to my EisBlock, the Optimus is about 5c Cooler." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-40.html#post28245770
> 
> "...So, my take away from these temps is this new block probably lowers the temps by about 4 C..." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-w...l#post28236704
> 
> "The upgrade is 3-4degrees it appears. They have screenshots how 3900X performed on there test bench...I did notice the flow rate for the block was much better than the heatkiller, it went up by 0.9-1 L/min." https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-w...l#post28226818
> 
> 
> *USER BENCHMARKS FROM REDDIT:*
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercoolin...ck_yes_please/
> 
> "...it's stellar. The full coverage of the chiplets on the Ryzen 3900X definitely makes a difference vs corsair xc7 and ekwb velocity (which were the roughly the same performance)..."
> "...I would say I see a ~3-5c (sometimes even higher) difference in all workloads as well as idle..."
> 
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercoolin...ck_comparison/
> 
> "Did more testing. The Optimus does out perform the Heatkiller on 3700x by about 4 degrees.
> Optimus: 58-61
> Heatkiller: 63-65
> Noctua U12A: 66-70"
> 
> Finally, test from PPCs using the Signature block. Also, an attempt to crack our acrylic
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxBknBlpOJM&feature=youtu.be&t=579




Bro, you really need a new C&P response. These links are all dead and there is no hard testing data. 

While Im not doubting your blocks are decent I put a GUARANTEEE up that it will not outperfrom everything on the market by 5C with all else being equal. If someone dropped 5-6C ovwer a HK Pro IV they had other issues like a crappy paste job. Its not skepticism, its common sense at work here. Send out samples to trusted testing sources if you want to be taken seriously. If wagers were allowed Id put up my entire 401K from 40 years of work to stake against every one of the links provided that are all dead being BS. 

So if you cant read into that......This is a CHALLENGE. Blocks look decent but lets get off the fairy tale and put up some real data done by some trusted sources. Otherwise you will just lose face the more you post the BS from above. Anything that comes from Matt Os mouth is 100% marketing BS. I learned that the hard way. Sen a sample to Gamers Nexus, Igors lab or even Jay or Linus for comparisons because whats here is just making you lose face bro.

Send me a sample and if its 5C better than a HK IV block on a 9940X will all else being equal Ill not only come out publicly for you, Ill pay you Triple the going rate.


----------



## Kana Chan

The link shorteners on this site messes with it.

Link 1/2/4 work except for 3/5/6 ( missing data with the "..." )


https : // www . overclock . net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-37.html#post28244514

https : // www . overclock . net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-35.html#post28243710

https : // www . overclock . net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-40.html#post28245770

The last one is from 
https://old.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/desrvb/am4_block_comparison/?st=k4nzvq3a&sh=68ad0238

https : // old . reddit . com/r/watercooling/comments/desrvb/am4_block_comparison/?st=k4nzvq3a&sh=68ad0238


----------



## ThrashZone

oreonutz said:


> I've got the AM4 Foundation Block, went with the Nickel Plated Copper Plexi Block. I've had time to run some more tests, am not quite ready to release my data, still validating.
> 
> So to answer your question, the Performance is impressive, and the quality and finish are in my opinion better then the EK Blocks, and a lot better then the Corsair Block. (The Corsair Block is aesthetically nice, but feels plasticy and flimsy to the touch, where as the Optimus Block feels Durable and well made. I hope that helps.


Hi,
Lots of amd praise so far 

Intel 9940x wise 
I'll keep it simple no need to do a lot of different tests 
I'll stick mostly to blender classroom and new blender opendata benchmark short test about 10 minutes and long test 40 minutes for my testing seeing it beats the hell out of the cpu in realistic workloads 

https://opendata.blender.org/

https://www.blender.org/download/demo-files/

https://www.blender.org/

Now just need the new optimus to show up still in pre shipping for some reason but holidays and all hopefully by first of the year I'll get it and installed.
Heatkiller 4 pro already beats ek evo by at the least 5c I don't see optimus going past HK by that much.


----------



## Optimus WC

JustinThyme said:


> . If wagers were allowed Id put up my entire 401K from 40 years of work to stake against every one of the links provided that are all dead being BS.
> 
> So if you cant read into that......This is a CHALLENGE.


Challenge...accepted! 

If you'd like to test a demo block, DM me. We 100% want to get the word out there. And if you know Igor or Steve or Jay or Linus, plz make the intro! 

The reason our block works so well is because of the massive surface area of the fins. So as dies get smaller and hotter (like the 3950x) then having super concentrated fin area makes more and more difference. That's why the industry has gone from big ol' fins back in the day to smaller fins. Then to microfins. And now to our fins. It's a logical progression, not some snake oil nonsense.

The reason we're the first to do it is the same reason our blocks are more expensive -- it's really hard. Most companies haven't updated their fin designs in a long, long time. And while many companies focused on RGBs and chasing the esports market, we focused on perfecting the fins. And extreme quality. So performance and reliability are our goals. 

As for people's results, if you read through the forum, there are a lot of users who tried the blocks and saw the performance they stated. I don't think anyone that has tried the block can be considered a newb or not know how to use thermal paste. The guys here have been building for a long time. Many skeptics who tried the blocks and saw performance. I mean, there are still some serious mounting hardware skeptics  but they like the block performance. We're gonna work on the hardware so it's easier in the future. 

And, yes, we'll be pursing professional reviews ASAP once we can. Right now, we're spending all our resources getting product out the door, like our GPU blocks and Threadripper 3.


----------



## Forsaken1

Good looking packaging and block.
Some air in loop.Re seat block 3 times.
2-4 degrees lower temps then EK supremacy.
Not fond of the provided mounting hardware.
Washers provided fall into motherboard holes.If not centered perfect.
AM4 Foundation black acetyl copper.MX4.+.4 Ambient correction.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Funny bet 401k for a 120.us cpu block 
But 5c cooler than a heatkiller 4 pro I'd like to see that and if it shows up next week sometime I'll see for myself.


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Funny bet 401k for a 120.us cpu block
> But 5c cooler than a heatkiller 4 pro I'd like to see that and if it shows up next week sometime I'll see for myself.


Haha, time to put Optimus in the black 

Based on unser results, we estimate 4c better than the HK block on AM4. Though others have gotten higher. On Intel, it really depends, obviously pushing 200w into a CPU will have a greater difference. Really, the hotter the CPU, the better our block does.


----------



## Optimus WC

_UPDATED USER COMPARISON LIST (now with shortlinks because the forum was messing with normal links):
_
*
USER TESTS FROM OVERCLOCK*

"Holy cow, finished installing the block and *got 7C drop *from the Phanteks under load on the 3950X, really happy with it, AMAZING Block" http://bit.ly/2Qtvhvo

"...without a DOUBT, the Optimus Block Outperforms Every AM4 Block I currently have... in Every Single Test I have run, the Optimus Outperforms the Eisblock by *between 4 and 6c.* The More Amps I push the chip, the bigger Difference I can measure..." http://bit.ly/352HHjl

"I did *drop about 5-6c* with this block compared to both the EK Velocity and the heatkiller pro IV, so GREAT BLOCK HERE..." http://bit.ly/350Liyb

"As a guess, from the temps I am seeing now, I will *achieve the 5-6°* that Optimus says they see in their tests." from here: http://bit.ly/37oPLfZ

"...it appears that when compared to my EisBlock, the *Optimus is about 5c Cooler*." http://bit.ly/2QpFj0M

"...So, my take away from these temps is this new block probably *lowers the temps by about 4 C*..." http://bit.ly/2tPeATw

"The *upgrade is 3-4degrees* it appears. They have screenshots how 3900X performed on there test bench...I did notice the flow rate for the block was much better than the heatkiller, it went up by 0.9-1 L/min." http://bit.ly/34ZOx99


*USER BENCHMARKS FROM REDDIT:* 


"...it's stellar. The full coverage of the chiplets on the Ryzen 3900X definitely makes a difference vs corsair xc7 and ekwb velocity (which were the roughly the same performance)..."
"...I would say I see a *~3-5c (sometimes even higher) difference* in all workloads as well as idle..." http://bit.ly/35j0BmQ


"Did more testing. The Optimus does out perform the Heatkiller on 3700x by about 4 degrees.
*Optimus: 58-61
Heatkiller: 63-65
Noctua U12A: 66-70"*
http://bit.ly/2SweV8b

*VIDEO BENCHMARK*
Finally, test from PPCs using the Signature block. Also, an attempt to crack our acrylic


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Haha, time to put Optimus in the black
> 
> Based on unser results, we estimate 4c better than the HK block on AM4. Though others have gotten higher. O*n Intel, it really depends, obviously pushing 200w into a CPU will have a greater difference. Really, the hotter the CPU, the better our block does*.


Hi,
Yep no amd but Intel is sure going to get tested 

Look forward to any positive results 9940x can put out some heat at just all core 4.5 and I usually test at 4.8 with avx offset at 3 which drops to 4.5 either way about as far as my thermals can handle 25c ambient.

We're pretty warm still in Houston a/c is on so by next week should be cooler and more equal testing environment for both blocks with the time it takes to r & r each one.


----------



## skupples

Section31 said:


> That and i think optimus made heatkiller 2020 product different. They are improving there existing products, which means cpu block and look at there new pump.


that's what we call innovation  

optimus already shaking things up, n they just got here.

now if EK could just knock some of the crust off...


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
If optimus can produce some complete kits like ek has and get them into tech places like micro center/ PPC/.. they can compete retail wise even if a little more for newbie buyers heck that was me a couple years ago


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> If optimus can produce some complete kits like ek has and get them into tech places like micro center/ PPC/.. they can compete retail wise even if a little more for newbie buyers heck that was me a couple years ago


Yeah definitely  We're working on ramping up production right now. The word of mouth has been awesome. We've only been around for a few months now. We'll definitely be doing kits and quasi-AIOs and more.


----------



## Bart

I'm keen for any competition in this market! But it will take a LOT to pry me away from Watercool's Heatkiller line. Stiff competition there.


----------



## skupples

You're the first high end new comer in ages, so not surprise word is spreading quick. 

Byskki/Barrow are the "newest" that come to mind, and their goal isn't quality, but emulation & lower cost.


----------



## ciarlatano

Optimus WC said:


> And if you know Igor or Steve or Jay or Linus, plz make the intro!


You should be looking to VSG at TPU to give you a factual technical review that actually provides information and solid testing procedures. XtremeRigs will also be able to provide a solid review. The others are cute for getting the word out (you'll need to pay Jay or Linus since they are advertisers, not reviewers), but really don't do reviews that provide any info beyond "duuuude....I like games.....I can play games when I use this".


----------



## Optimus WC

ciarlatano said:


> You should be looking to VSG at TPU to give you a factual technical review that actually provides information and solid testing procedures. XtremeRigs will also be able to provide a solid review. The others are cute for getting the word out (you'll need to pay Jay or Linus since they are advertisers, not reviewers), but really don't do reviews that provide any info beyond "duuuude....I like games.....I can play games when I use this".


Haha, for sure, and VSG is great! Not many do solo block reviews. We're working on EU distribution so we can make sure the entirely community can have access to the blocks once we start getting more attention.


----------



## Shawnb99

So far not seeing much of a difference between this block and my Heatkiller block. Think I would of been better off with the Ultra flat model that I ordered and not the normal model I was sent.
Plus never got a refund for the difference.

Not impressed at all so far. Not happy that my order was changed for me without my consent.


----------



## pewpewlazer

ciarlatano said:


> You should be looking to VSG at TPU to give you a factual technical review that actually provides information and solid testing procedures. XtremeRigs will also be able to provide a solid review. The others are cute for getting the word out (you'll need to pay Jay or Linus since they are advertisers, not reviewers), but really don't do reviews that provide any info beyond "duuuude....I like games.....I can play games when I use this".


Even user comparison between the Optimus block and whatever they were previously using that has some semblance of scientific testing and credibility would be better than what we have now. 

The current round up of user 'reviews' can be summarized as "well I put this on and ran a 5 minute test and the load was slightly different and the ambient temperature was a little different, but it looks like the Optimus is about 5*C better". No mention of water temps or any other attempts to control test conditions. It's anecdotal evidence at best with no real data to back it up, and the amount of marketing mumbo jumbo from this company leaves a sour taste in my mouth as well.

I also suspect that the "chiplet" design of Zen 2 has something to do with the results as well. If the 5*C+ gains on the 3900x/3950x are real, then I'm sure the gap will be closed once the major players redesign their blocks to perform best on the Zen 2 layout.


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> So far not seeing much of a difference between this block and my Heatkiller block. Think I would of been better off with the Ultra flat model that I ordered and not the normal model I was sent.
> Plus never got a refund for the difference.
> 
> Not impressed at all so far. Not happy that my order was changed for me without my consent.


 hopefully they make right. 

I won't have anything to compare my gpu block with, but i'll be properly tracking all the #s, cuz aquaero ftwforlyfe. I agree the current "Reviews" are people just indulging in their money sunk bias, at least the few I clicked thru don't have many hard "facts"


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah getting a different block wouldn't of made me very happy either 

Should have mine Monday afternoon sometime 
Cool front too so ambient should be lower than usual.
Doesn't take long for 9940x to warm up a room 

But as stated I'm keeping testing simple 
https://opendata.blender.org/


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> So far not seeing much of a difference between this block and my Heatkiller block. Think I would of been better off with the Ultra flat model that I ordered and not the normal model I was sent.
> Plus never got a refund for the difference.
> 
> Not impressed at all so far. Not happy that my order was changed for me without my consent.


Hey Shawn, 

Can you share your test setup and benchmarks so we can know more? You should be seeing solid improvement. 

I believe you received the correct block for your application. Looking back on our emails, as we discussed, the bare die brackets on the market can cause issues with our flat block. If they're not perfect, then the block doesn't make correct contact with the die. 

So our standard Signature block is the correct choice and the one we sent (since you said you're running bare die, not lapped IHS). That's why we asked about your setup to make sure you got the block that'd work best for your setup. 

That said, there was a bit of confusion in the beginning (our fault, to be sure), though now we've changed the wording on the flat block so that it's clear it should only be used with lapped IHS or in situations where the bare die is clearly sitting above the die bracket. 

For example, attached are numbers from another user (Nory) that shows the difference between the flat block, the regular block and the competing block on a bare die. 

That said, since your block isn't getting the performance gains you're expecting, I'm wondering if the block is making correct contact. We want to make sure you're getting top performance. 

For the refund for the difference, I see there was a note about it but i'll loop in accounting to see what happened. Often with international credit cards there can be holds or fraud alerts. We'll take a look and then apply an additional discount for all the mess.



pewpewlazer said:


> Even user comparison between the Optimus block and whatever they were previously using that has some semblance of scientific testing and credibility would be better than what we have now.
> 
> The current round up of user 'reviews' can be summarized as "well I put this on and ran a 5 minute test and the load was slightly different and the ambient temperature was a little different, but it looks like the Optimus is about 5*C better". No mention of water temps or any other attempts to control test conditions. It's anecdotal evidence at best with no real data to back it up, and the amount of marketing mumbo jumbo from this company leaves a sour taste in my mouth as well.
> 
> I also suspect that the "chiplet" design of Zen 2 has something to do with the results as well. If the 5*C+ gains on the 3900x/3950x are real, then I'm sure the gap will be closed once the major players redesign their blocks to perform best on the Zen 2 layout.


As for the small chiplets of Zen 2, you're exactly right about why we have better performance. The dies are smaller with more concentrated heat. So tighter microfins with larger surface area do better at dissipating heat. 

At the same time, we see similar improvement on Intel. But TDPs are rising, temps are higher, and dies are smaller. So it makes sense greater surface area = better performance. There isn't anything other than quality engineering here, we try to be 100% transparent on our website about everything that goes into our blocks. 

And fair point about professional reviews, though I do think the users here on Overclock have done some pretty exhaustive tests, more than just five minutes. Attached is a benchmark from user Nory. We have zero relationship with anyone on this forum, other than selling them blocks and providing customer service. I think many were rightfully skeptical and they then did their tests and were happy with the results.

Plus, we're really serious about quality and reliability. Our materials and corrosion resistance and crack resistance is real. So everything else being equal, we believe our products are the most reliable in the business. 

But like we've said, we really want to get our blocks in professional hands, it's just a lot easier for big companies to do it. HardOCP reviewed our original V1 block and saw similar performance numbers, our V2 design is better than the V1. 

Anyway, happy to answer any questions


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Hey Shawn,
> 
> 
> 
> Can you share your test setup and benchmarks so we can know more? You should be seeing solid improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe you received the correct block for your application. Looking back on our emails, as we discussed, the bare die brackets on the market can cause issues with our flat block. If they're not perfect, then the block doesn't make correct contact with the die.
> 
> 
> 
> So our standard Signature block is the correct choice and the one we sent (since you said you're running bare die, not lapped IHS). That's why we asked about your setup to make sure you got the block that'd work best for your setup.
> 
> 
> 
> That said, there was a bit of confusion in the beginning (our fault, to be sure), though now we've changed the wording on the flat block so that it's clear it should only be used with lapped IHS or in situations where the bare die is clearly sitting above the die bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> For example, attached are numbers from another user (Nory) that shows the difference between the flat block, the regular block and the competing block on a bare die.
> 
> 
> 
> That said, since your block isn't getting the performance gains you're expecting, I'm wondering if the block is making correct contact. We want to make sure you're getting top performance.
> 
> 
> 
> For the refund for the difference, I see there was a note about it but i'll loop in accounting to see what happened. Often with international credit cards there can be holds or fraud alerts. We'll take a look and then apply an additional discount for all the mess.




Ok thanks. I’ll try and investigate a bit more, still flushing Blitz part 2 from my loop. When I was able to boot into windows I was seeing around the same temps I was getting with the Heatkiller block but really wasn't able to benchmark it properly.
It could be a contact issue or my bad application of LM. I also had to install the block upside down since my system is reverse ATX and it made the loop order easier so that could be a factor as well. 
I’ll be able to check a bit more sometime next week.


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> Ok thanks. I’ll try and investigate a bit more, still flushing Blitz part 2 from my loop. When I was able to boot into windows I was seeing around the same temps I was getting with the Heatkiller block but really wasn't able to benchmark it properly.
> It could be a contact issue or my bad application of LM. I also had to install the block upside down since my system is reverse ATX and it made the loop order easier so that could be a factor as well.
> I’ll be able to check a bit more sometime next week.


Sounds good! And my guess is you won't see much of a difference at idle anyway. Once the CPU is really pushed then you'll notice a difference. Let me know how it goes


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Sounds good! And my guess is you won't see much of a difference at idle anyway. Once the CPU is really pushed then you'll notice a difference. Let me know how it goes




Ok thanks will do. 
Thanks for the great CS.


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> Challenge...accepted!
> 
> If you'd like to test a demo block, DM me. We 100% want to get the word out there. And if you know Igor or Steve or Jay or Linus, plz make the intro!
> 
> The reason our block works so well is because of the massive surface area of the fins. So as dies get smaller and hotter (like the 3950x) then having super concentrated fin area makes more and more difference. That's why the industry has gone from big ol' fins back in the day to smaller fins. Then to microfins. And now to our fins. It's a logical progression, not some snake oil nonsense.
> 
> The reason we're the first to do it is the same reason our blocks are more expensive -- it's really hard. Most companies haven't updated their fin designs in a long, long time. And while many companies focused on RGBs and chasing the esports market, we focused on perfecting the fins. And extreme quality. So performance and reliability are our goals.
> 
> As for people's results, if you read through the forum, there are a lot of users who tried the blocks and saw the performance they stated. I don't think anyone that has tried the block can be considered a newb or not know how to use thermal paste. The guys here have been building for a long time. Many skeptics who tried the blocks and saw performance. I mean, there are still some serious mounting hardware skeptics  but they like the block performance. We're gonna work on the hardware so it's easier in the future.
> 
> And, yes, we'll be pursing professional reviews ASAP once we can. Right now, we're spending all our resources getting product out the door, like our GPU blocks and Threadripper 3.


I dont have a test bed set up, not woth the hassle to repipe a hard tube system for a DEMO block for failure.
If you pursue professional reviews it will help you get more out the door. As of now its all fantasy. a Trusted source shows me and Ill buy one.

Tell you what,
You send me a retail nickel plated version suitaible for a intel 9940X mounted to an ASUS rampage VI extreme and Ill test it out. If it beats my heatkiller IV pro by 5-8C Ill keep it and pay you for it and leave it in. If it doesn't I sent it back and you pay me for the PITA of my time for replacing a great block for nothing which will surpass the cost of your block . Either way I post up the results be it good or bad and come out publicly for you if its good.

Dont want want to break a brand new company as I more than fairly sure you cant cover the spread on a lucrative 401K. 

If thats acceptable Ill send you my shipping INFO


----------



## Fisbwp283

Do you have any plans for a glass tube reservoir?

Also - will you have a full metal version of the thread ripper block?
my cooling fluid is not compatible with acrylic and i'd love one of your blocks.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> I dont have a test bed set up, not woth the hassle to repipe a hard tube system for a DEMO block for failure.
> If you pursue professional reviews it will help you get more out the door. As of now its all fantasy. a Trusted source shows me and Ill buy one.
> 
> Tell you what,
> You send me a retail nickel plated version suitaible for a intel 9940X mounted to an ASUS rampage VI extreme and Ill test it out. If it beats my heatkiller IV pro by 5-8C Ill keep it and pay you for it and leave it in. If it doesn't I sent it back and you pay me for the PITA of my time for replacing a great block for nothing which will surpass the cost of your block . Either way I post up the results be it good or bad and come out publicly for you if its good.
> 
> Dont want want to break a brand new company as I more than fairly sure you cant cover the spread on a lucrative 401K.
> 
> If thats acceptable Ill send you my shipping INFO


Hi,
If it weren't for your first obnoxious bet that you've completely reneged on I don't see why he would entertain another one from you :kookoo:

Beside I already have a optimus coming Monday evening and also use a heatkiller 4 pro atm on a 9940x so it's sort of silly to entertain you at all 
If you want to know my results all you have to do is monitor this thread Tuesday.
I can't do 5.0 but 4.8 is what I usually do anyway and the new 9940x rma is looking pretty good so far.

It doesn't take a lot of testing for me to figure out if one block is better than the other but I doubt even my test will satisfy you either 
https://opendata.blender.org/


----------



## skupples

I always found thyme to be a relaxing herb. I’m confused.


----------



## lightsout

JustinThyme said:


> I dont have a test bed set up, not woth the hassle to repipe a hard tube system for a DEMO block for failure.
> 
> If you pursue professional reviews it will help you get more out the door. As of now its all fantasy. a Trusted source shows me and Ill buy one.
> 
> 
> 
> Tell you what,
> 
> You send me a retail nickel plated version suitaible for a intel 9940X mounted to an ASUS rampage VI extreme and Ill test it out. If it beats my heatkiller IV pro by 5-8C Ill keep it and pay you for it and leave it in. If it doesn't I sent it back and you pay me for the PITA of my time for replacing a great block for nothing which will surpass the cost of your block . Either way I post up the results be it good or bad and come out publicly for you if its good.
> 
> 
> 
> Dont want want to break a brand new company as I more than fairly sure you cant cover the spread on a lucrative 401K.
> 
> 
> 
> If thats acceptable Ill send you my shipping INFO




What in the world is your problem?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Never seen so much drama over a 120.us water block before 
U.S. company heck we've wasted more on cheap ek crap like the mono block debacle hanging on most of our walls of shame  
Now just installing a new water block is too damn much trouble :doh:


----------



## skupples

must've been posted pre coffee/chronic.

jimmies rustle in the distance as Optimus attempts to take top spot

and um, that GPU block? $220! That's like 2/3rds a day of work!


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> must've been posted pre coffee/chronic.
> 
> jimmies rustle in the distance as Optimus attempts to take top spot
> 
> and um, that GPU block? $220! That's like 2/3rds a day of work!


Hi,
If you bought a gpu block directly from watercool it wouldn't be much cheaper seeing fedex shipping is a minimum 30 euro added to the costs of what a 175.us heatkiller gpu block.


----------



## skupples

i think my last aRGB EK block was even close to $200, tax, tag & title. so paying $30 more for Chicago manufactured product is fine by me. I hope this gets the Euro's rustled


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Indeed :thumb:
Cheap usps shipping under 10.us 

Hi,
Has anyone mentioned a dual d5 pump setup like ek has for optimus's drawing board ?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-incl-pump


----------



## skupples

I knew something was up last time I looked @ that unit. It's not $200 USD, it's $200 euros.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> I knew something was up last time I looked @ that unit. It's not $200 USD, it's $200 euros.


Hi,
Yep add another 23.50 us to that


----------



## bullydog

Just wondering how long is the typical shipping time? I placed an order mid last week and was wondering if my items can be shipped this week?

I understand we are in the midst of the holiday period but just asking so that I can have a estimate to plan my build 

Thanks In advance


----------



## Optimus WC

Q/A Time:

*-DOUBLE D5: *Definitely! We like running double D5s in our systems. We'll be making the standalone pump housing first (like our D5 res system but without the res). Then we'll look at doing a double housing. Still undecided about form factor. The EK style with that res on top like a weird growth doesn't instill confidence. We'd prob do a side-by-side design, though we really haven't though much more about it than that.

*-GLASS RESERVOIR: *We're looking into it. Our cast acrylic is far stronger (and more expensive) than any glass res out there. The premium glass res on the market look nice, but we don't feel it's a professional solution right now. Cast acrylic is used in massive public aquariums, it's bulletproof (like real bullets), and can be machined so it's easy to assemble/service. If we do glass, it'll be for a "budget" version, though we'd prob want to do a diff mount than the current strut design. 

*-GPU COST/DESIGN:* Like our blocks, if we did the same quality/design as the current offerings, our blocks would be the same price as everyone else (without the digital unicorns). The reason our GPU is pricier is because our materials are waaaay better. Cast acrylic done this way is bonkers good. And we are going with a triple layer design where the cold plate is separate. This means added cost of a separate cold plate. it's the same plate as our CPU blocks, so it can dissipate far, far more heat than a typical thick-fin GPU design. GPUs aren't near the level of concentrated heat as CPUs, but we like to think ahead. This also means we can offer replacement midplates for upcoming GPUs with diff layouts, as long as the position of the die remains the same. Since we ditched the ant farm design, we are more flexible.

*-CRAZY ONLINE BETS:* We're here to make great products and support the liquid cooling community, not hustle people's 401ks lol  Like we've said a dozen times, we want professional reviews, we need professional reviews. We'll be reaching out to get as many reviews as we can. We are a small, new company so we don't have the resources like the big guys who can host big events and pay for big advertising. We're hoping word of mouth and good will keeps us growing at a nice pace. If you are or know reviewers, please put us in touch 

*EXPECTED PERFORMANCE: *For anyone new to this thread or following along, we're claiming both improved performance and extreme reliability. We're not claiming insane gains of 8c vs the current champs (my how the numbers keep growing). Compared to the top AMD blocks, you should see ~4c improvement. Compared to bad blocks, you can see 7c improvement. Intel CPUs are different, especially the high cores/temp models. You can see upwards of 8c vers the most popular blocks. And 3-6c vs the top performing blocks (top selling and top performing aren't the same, unfortunately). 

And this translates into higher stable MHz, but it really, really depends on your system, the CPU, etc. 

You won't see these improvements if: your CPU IHS is lapped. Or you're using liquid metal without doing multiple tests (LM can vary 10c just by application). Or you're only measuring idle temps, not full load. Or you got a bad CPU with wonky QC (yeah, it happens). Also, the lower the TDP, the lower the differences.

*REGARDING OUR COMPETITION:* We don't think this is a zero sum industry. We own and love a lot of products from other brands. Heatkiller is awesome, Kryos blocks are awesome, we own big fancy radiators from those guys, reservoirs, blocks, all kinds of stuff. Basically, we own everything in order to test it. And we use their products in our builds, especially before we made our own line. Optimus products are priced higher because it's so much more difficult to make. Also, not everything is about performance (crazy, I know). So some of the other blocks are really beautifully crafted with awesome design touches. If anything, we're super grateful to even be here and follow in the footsteps of awesome companies who have done so much to grow the industry. We try not to mention other companies by name, because we're not here to trash anyone. People should buy our stuff, buy their stuff and build PCs for friends/family 



bullydog said:


> Just wondering how long is the typical shipping time? I placed an order mid last week and was wondering if my items can be shipped this week?
> 
> I understand we are in the midst of the holiday period but just asking so that I can have a estimate to plan my build
> 
> Thanks In advance


No prob! We'll start shipping again tomorrow (monday). And we should then be caught up with holiday orders. Unless it's a Threadripper or GPU, we're still manufacturing those. That said, we're looking to start shipping GPUs next week as well. Holidays have caused definite delays. 

As for shipping time, your block ships from Chicago, so it all depends where in the US/world you're located. But you'll receive and email with tracking once the block is on its way.


----------



## poah

availability in the EU (UK)


----------



## Optimus WC

poah said:


> availability in the EU (UK)


Available now with unfortunate shipping/customs. We're aiming for mid/late january to have EU distribution set up


----------



## ThrashZone

bullydog said:


> Just wondering how long is the typical shipping time? I placed an order mid last week and was wondering if my items can be shipped this week?
> 
> I understand we are in the midst of the holiday period but just asking so that I can have a estimate to plan my build
> 
> Thanks In advance


Hi,
I purchased a cpu block Christmas eve 
It's due to be delivered tomorrow usps cheapo rate so not too bad considering holiday.


----------



## skupples

WooT gunna be running that shiny copper by end of the month  

just confirmed all my internal sensors are still working, & that externals aren't caked in dust. It's a damn shame I don't have one of the 2080ti chuck full of temp sensors... if one even exists.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> WooT gunna be running that shiny brass by end of the month
> 
> just confirmed all my internal sensors are still working, & that externals aren't caked in dust. It's a damn shame I don't have one of the 2080ti chuck full of temp sensors... if one even exists.


Hi,
Brass ?
I thought blocks were made of copper


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Brass ?
> I thought blocks were made of copper


COPPER: Cold plates, GPU mid plates
BRASS: Signature block top, fittings
NICKEL: Only used as plating, not raw billet nickel
6061-T6: Brackets, pump housings, M.2 covers
STAINLESS: Screws

Brass is the superior material for machining fittings and tops. Copper is softer, so not ideal for fittings/etc. But awesome for cold plates. Premium copper and brass are about the same price, so it's really a decision of best material to use for the application.


----------



## skupples

forgot, its a quality product, not a barrow  

fixed


----------



## poah

Optimus WC said:


> Available now with unfortunate shipping/customs. We're aiming for mid/late january to have EU distribution set up



customs depends on the declared value obviously. I'll look forward to seeing EU distribution. Currently running a Bykski TR4 block on my 3900x so I have full coverage of the chiplets so be interesting to see the difference due to the actual design.


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> Q/A Time:
> 
> *-DOUBLE D5: *Definitely! We like running double D5s in our systems. We'll be making the standalone pump housing first (like our D5 res system but without the res). Then we'll look at doing a double housing. Still undecided about form factor. The EK style with that res on top like a weird growth doesn't instill confidence. We'd prob do a side-by-side design, though we really haven't though much more about it than that.
> 
> *-GLASS RESERVOIR: *We're looking into it. Our cast acrylic is far stronger (and more expensive) than any glass res out there. The premium glass res on the market look nice, but we don't feel it's a professional solution right now. Cast acrylic is used in massive public aquariums, it's bulletproof (like real bullets), and can be machined so it's easy to assemble/service. If we do glass, it'll be for a "budget" version, though we'd prob want to do a diff mount than the current strut design.
> 
> *-GPU COST/DESIGN:* Like our blocks, if we did the same quality/design as the current offerings, our blocks would be the same price as everyone else (without the digital unicorns). The reason our GPU is pricier is because our materials are waaaay better. Cast acrylic done this way is bonkers good. And we are going with a triple layer design where the cold plate is separate. This means added cost of a separate cold plate. it's the same plate as our CPU blocks, so it can dissipate far, far more heat than a typical thick-fin GPU design. GPUs aren't near the level of concentrated heat as CPUs, but we like to think ahead. This also means we can offer replacement midplates for upcoming GPUs with diff layouts, as long as the position of the die remains the same. Since we ditched the ant farm design, we are more flexible.
> 
> *-CRAZY ONLINE BETS:* We're here to make great products and support the liquid cooling community, not hustle people's 401ks lol  Like we've said a dozen times, we want professional reviews, we need professional reviews. We'll be reaching out to get as many reviews as we can. We are a small, new company so we don't have the resources like the big guys who can host big events and pay for big advertising. We're hoping word of mouth and good will keeps us growing at a nice pace. If you are or know reviewers, please put us in touch
> 
> *EXPECTED PERFORMANCE: *For anyone new to this thread or following along, we're claiming both improved performance and extreme reliability. We're not claiming insane gains of 8c vs the current champs (my how the numbers keep growing). Compared to the top AMD blocks, you should see ~4c improvement. Compared to bad blocks, you can see 7c improvement. Intel CPUs are different, especially the high cores/temp models. You can see upwards of 8c vers the most popular blocks. And 3-6c vs the top performing blocks (top selling and top performing aren't the same, unfortunately).
> 
> And this translates into higher stable MHz, but it really, really depends on your system, the CPU, etc.
> 
> You won't see these improvements if: your CPU IHS is lapped. Or you're using liquid metal without doing multiple tests (LM can vary 10c just by application). Or you're only measuring idle temps, not full load. Or you got a bad CPU with wonky QC (yeah, it happens). Also, the lower the TDP, the lower the differences.
> 
> *REGARDING OUR COMPETITION:* We don't think this is a zero sum industry. We own and love a lot of products from other brands. Heatkiller is awesome, Kryos blocks are awesome, we own big fancy radiators from those guys, reservoirs, blocks, all kinds of stuff. Basically, we own everything in order to test it. And we use their products in our builds, especially before we made our own line. Optimus products are priced higher because it's so much more difficult to make. Also, not everything is about performance (crazy, I know). So some of the other blocks are really beautifully crafted with awesome design touches. If anything, we're super grateful to even be here and follow in the footsteps of awesome companies who have done so much to grow the industry. We try not to mention other companies by name, because we're not here to trash anyone. People should buy our stuff, buy their stuff and build PCs for friends/family



Trust me when I say you would never take my 401K as you most likely dont have the resources to back it and regardless you aren't going to beat HK by 5-8C. If a unicorn happens to step in and take charge Ill eat crow, wouldnt be the first time but lets just be realistic. You want the word out getting to the top reviewers is easy. 


https://www.facebook.com/Jayztwocents/

https://www.gamersnexus.net/supportgn/1200-contact-us

https://www.facebook.com/LinusTech/


Google is your friend.



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> If it weren't for your first obnoxious bet that you've completely reneged on I don't see why he would entertain another one from you :kookoo:
> 
> Beside I already have a optimus coming Monday evening and also use a heatkiller 4 pro atm on a 9940x so it's sort of silly to entertain you at all
> If you want to know my results all you have to do is monitor this thread Tuesday.
> I can't do 5.0 but 4.8 is what I usually do anyway and the new 9940x rma is looking pretty good so far.
> 
> It doesn't take a lot of testing for me to figure out if one block is better than the other but I doubt even my test will satisfy you either
> https://opendata.blender.org/


Well post up what you get. my obnoxious post was in response to obnoxious claims. Like Ive said more than once it looks like a we3ll made product and most likely will perform well but it wont do 5-8C better with all else being equal.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> Well post up what you get. my obnoxious post was in response to obnoxious claims. Like Ive said more than once it looks like a we3ll made product and most likely will perform well but it wont do 5-8C better with all else being equal.


Either buy a block and test it out yourself or go away. You obviously think you know better so keep your Heatkiller block and bother some other thread.


----------



## poah

Ha ha ha ha ha ha at top reviewers including jay and Linus 



JustinThyme said:


> you want the word out getting to the top reviewers is easy.
> 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/Jayztwocents/
> 
> https://www.gamersnexus.net/supportgn/1200-contact-us
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/LinusTech/
> 
> 
> Google is your friend.


----------



## ciarlatano

Shawnb99 said:


> Either buy a block and test it out yourself or go away. You obviously think you know better so keep your Heatkiller block and bother some other thread.


Eh....that other thread would likely be one you'd be interested in, as well. There may be no easy escape.


----------



## skupples

he's already been informed of who'll do it scientifically and who'll make it viral, if they didn't already know

easy, igor & the like do numbers, while linus puts sub zero coolant thru it to make it 40c cooler instead of 4


----------



## JustinThyme

I’ll sit back now and wait and see what comes of what. Be interesting to see.l
I really wish Optimus success.



Shawnb99 said:


> Either buy a block and test it out yourself or go away. You obviously think you know better so keep your Heatkiller block and bother some other thread.


Why would I want to do that?
They have offered a demo unit for testing. I just don’t have a test bed. Too much of a PITA to change out blocks. Pull GPUS, pull pumps, pull top rad and fans, pull MOBO them out it all back while redoing the hardline. If I had and open bench with flex tube where it’s a 5 min change I’d jump all over it.

I’m not trying to bust chops, just want to see some performance numbers before I spend two days tearing a rig down and redoing the plumbing. Not about money in the least and I really hope to see them succeed!


----------



## m4fox90

JustinThyme said:


> Why would I want to do that?
> They have offered a demo unit for testing. I just don’t have a test bed. Too much of a PITA to change out blocks. Pull GPUS, pull pumps, pull top rad and fans, pull MOBO them out it all back while redoing the hardline. If I had and open bench with flex tube where it’s a 5 min change I’d jump all over it.


We get it dude you're too hardcore for this new company. Please move along.


----------



## Fisbwp283

Optimus WC said:


> Q/A Time:
> 
> 
> *-GLASS RESERVOIR: * Our cast acrylic is far stronger (and more expensive) than any glass res out there. The premium glass res on the market look nice, but we don't feel it's a professional solution right now. Cast acrylic is used in massive public aquariums, it's bulletproof (like real bullets), and can be machined so it's easy to assemble/service. If we do glass, it'll be for a "budget" version, though we'd prob want to do a diff mount than the current strut design.


Hi - Glass is important to me in a reservoir as Acrylic chemical compatibility is too limited for exotic cooling fluids. particularly important is it's incompatibility with Acetones, Ethanol, Methanol... It doesn't matter how strong your reservoir is if it dissolves and or discolours.

Also - what material are you using for O-Rings?


----------



## springs113

Reading all this back n forth...sitting here thinking...all I want is my tr4 block that was slated for mid December shipping.


----------



## skupples

i uh.. what? 

glad I never went hard line. had no clue I had to pull my pumps out to replace blocks. ! 

i'm glad I've always stuck to function over form.



springs113 said:


> Reading all this back n forth...sitting here thinking...all I want is my tr4 block that was slated for mid December shipping.


this is why I've been adding two weeks to my expected. With no hard dates and "hoping to get it done around this time" I know they're rolling with the punches & getting it done & out as quickly as they can. We'll look back on this in a couple years & be like "lol, remember when they were small enough to respond to every single troll on that backwater OCN forum?!"

glad to see we're at least still on the list.


----------



## Optimus WC

Thermal_Preist said:


> Hi - Glass is important to me in a reservoir as Acrylic chemical compatibility is too limited for exotic cooling fluids. particularly important is it's incompatibility with Acetones, Ethanol, Methanol... It doesn't matter how strong your reservoir is if it dissolves and or discolours.
> 
> Also - what material are you using for O-Rings?


Ah, very valid point. What is your application use for acetone, ethanol, methanol, etc? We've looked at premium borosilicate used for scientific/medical applications, though we haven't had customers request it yet. Typically when we get the glass vs acrylic question it's all about aesthetics. 

If you have truly exotic cooling needs or scientific applications, let's talk -- we're very interested in pushing the boundaries of liquid cooling. 

And our o-rings and gaskets are all 100% EPDM without plasticizer. And we don't use lubricating oil for our gpus, etc. Of course, doing custom o-rings is easy.

UPDATE: I assume this is for a chiller w/o a pump/res already built in. We can of course make a res that works for that scenario, though it sounds like a niche use case.



skupples said:


> i uh.. what?
> 
> glad I never went hard line. had no clue I had to pull my pumps out to replace blocks. !
> 
> i'm glad I've always stuck to function over form.
> 
> 
> 
> this is why I've been adding two weeks to my expected. With no hard dates and "hoping to get it done around this time" I know they're rolling with the punches & getting it done & out as quickly as they can. We'll look back on this in a couple years & be like "lol, remember when they were small enough to respond to every single troll on that backwater OCN forum?!"
> 
> glad to see we're at least still on the list.


Hahaha, seriously  

And we're working crazy hours to get the blocks done. The original ETA for Threadripper 3 was definitely optimistic. It's the GPUs that have held up production. Lots of new tooling and unexpected delays to get the GPU done correctly. The results will be worth it. Our feeling is to get it done right than rush production. 

As for hard v soft tubing, I like going party in the front, business in the back (aka soft tubing with QDCs). Best of both worlds


----------



## skupples

I'd cave on the 90 degree GPU fad, but it would be kinda weird in an STH10. There's like 6 inches between the bottom of my current ATX board & the floor of the case. (radiators in the basement) 


and as to the extra work of vanity in the front. My next thing would be metal tubes


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> i uh.. what?
> 
> glad I never went hard line. had no clue I had to pull my pumps out to replace blocks. !
> 
> i'm glad I've always stuck to function over form.


Its all about the layout. I could have done it a little differently but no matter what the MOBO has to come out.


----------



## skupples

good flying spaghetti monster of high hell itself i love my removable motherboard tray.


----------



## oreonutz

Man, just caught up. This thread got a little crazy...

I really am enjoying my AM4 Block. Will be ordering another one for the Test Bench Soon so I don't have to pull it off my Main Rig every time I want to test it. Unless @Optimus WC wants to send that Sample over to me, I don't have a 401k to put up, and I already know from my own Testing that at 180-200w of Heat, the difference is about 5c on average, all else being equal, in favor of the Optimus Block over my Eis Block, and about 6c Over My EK Block, but as I am in the process of getting a new Test Bench Setup in my new Lab, I wouldn't mind having a dedicated Sample for testing 

In all Seriousness, I will just purchase another after the holidays as I am a no one so my results won't be as satisfying to most skeptics, Igor is the man we need to get a block too. All this talk about Jay and Linus, I love both of their content (Most of it anyway) but neither of them are Reviewers in the strict sense of the word, they would be great for marketing the block, but not the testers people want to see for objective results, so its funny to see them keep getting mentioned. Gamers Nexus is a different story, the problem with that is Steve doesn't test blocks, so why would he start now? So people suggesting those specific people for objective testing is curious... 

Anyways, my question for @Optimus WC is, I know you are working on Threadripper and GPU Blocks right now, but, I noticed you had mentioned the possibility of doing an AMD Signature block, is that something we can expect sometime soon (like 1st Quarter 2020)? I only ask to see if I should wait to put in my order for another Block, or if its going to be past Quarter 1 then I probably shouldn't wait on it. Also, should we expect a performance difference with the Signature AM4 Block? And if not, what differences should we expect?

Anyways, thank you again, for an awesome product, I have been using mine for a week now and love it. I am working on a content piece to show the differences between my samples, but I know I will get torn apart if anything is off, and I discovered a small flaw in my testing, so I am starting over, but the one thing that has been repeatable with every single mount is lower temps on the Optimus Block, the question is just by exactly how much at what Wattage, and soon I will hopefully have accurate answers to that for people who care. Keep up the awesome work!


----------



## Optimus WC

oreonutz said:


> Man, just caught up. This thread got a little crazy...
> 
> I really am enjoying my AM4 Block. Will be ordering another one for the Test Bench Soon so I don't have to pull it off my Main Rig every time I want to test it. Unless @Optimus WC wants to send that Sample over to me, I don't have a 401k to put up, and I already know from my own Testing that at 180-200w of Heat, the difference is about 5c on average, all else being equal, in favor of the Optimus Block over my Eis Block, and about 6c Over My EK Block, but as I am in the process of getting a new Test Bench Setup in my new Lab, I wouldn't mind having a dedicated Sample for testing
> 
> In all Seriousness, I will just purchase another after the holidays as I am a no one so my results won't be as satisfying to most skeptics, Igor is the man we need to get a block too. All this talk about Jay and Linus, I love both of their content (Most of it anyway) but neither of them are Reviewers in the strict sense of the word, they would be great for marketing the block, but not the testers people want to see for objective results, so its funny to see them keep getting mentioned. Gamers Nexus is a different story, the problem with that is Steve doesn't test blocks, so why would he start now? So people suggesting those specific people for objective testing is curious...
> 
> Anyways, my question for @Optimus WC is, I know you are working on Threadripper and GPU Blocks right now, but, I noticed you had mentioned the possibility of doing an AMD Signature block, is that something we can expect sometime soon (like 1st Quarter 2020)? I only ask to see if I should wait to put in my order for another Block, or if its going to be past Quarter 1 then I probably shouldn't wait on it. Also, should we expect a performance difference with the Signature AM4 Block? And if not, what differences should we expect?
> 
> Anyways, thank you again, for an awesome product, I have been using mine for a week now and love it. I am working on a content piece to show the differences between my samples, but I know I will get torn apart if anything is off, and I discovered a small flaw in my testing, so I am starting over, but the one thing that has been repeatable with every single mount is lower temps on the Optimus Block, the question is just by exactly how much at what Wattage, and soon I will hopefully have accurate answers to that for people who care. Keep up the awesome work!


Haha, awesome! DM me about the test bench setup, we'll figure something out.

For the Signature AMD block, it's one of those things that we'd want to test it to see what kind of performance is to be gained. We'd really want to test out some new ideas about the dies, flow and mounting. That said, some want to do fancier cooling and want a solid metal block. So it could be Q1, prob more like Q2, really hard to say at this point. 

As for heat, yeah the higher the wattage and temps, the more our block shines.


----------



## shiokarai

How about the upcoming Intel i9-10900k? (recently leaked slides, 125W TDP at stock, 5.3 Ghz turbo etc.)


----------



## skupples

shiokarai said:


> How about the upcoming Intel i9-10900k? (recently leaked slides, 125W TDP at stock, 5.3 Ghz turbo etc.)


seems like it would use the 10980 block?


----------



## bl4ckdot

Got mine, and now we wait for the 10980XE (... and the Mo-Ra 420 and many others fun toys)


----------



## ryan92084

You all need to make like a peltier and chill... on both each other and with the double posts. Please don't don't give me reason to use something stronger than bad jokes.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Mine is out for delivery :wheee:

Double posting is a forum feature


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> seems like it would use the 10980 block?


10900 sounds interesting. "Thermal Velocity Boost"? Sounds like a bonus for liquid cooler 

And the blocks can handle way more than 125w.


----------



## Kana Chan

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCw62L6EcWfcOZyf_SWTiBUA/videos

Send a sample to the above? That guy has a 10980XE at 5.1ghz and also a W-3175X at 4.7ghz.


----------



## Optimus WC

Kana Chan said:


> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCw62L6EcWfcOZyf_SWTiBUA/videos
> 
> Send a sample to the above? That guy has a 10980XE at 5.1ghz and also a W-3175X at 4.7ghz.


For sure, Luumi is awesome!


----------



## oreonutz

Hey, IDK if this has been mentioned here yet, but look who made the #1 Spot in Caitlin V3's Best Looking Block List. Not exactly what @Optimus WC is striving for as far as priority, but definitely not bad for publicity! (Skip to 10 Minutes and 33 Seconds)


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Looks pretty close to a tie to me heatkiller 1c cooler cpu package temp/ highest core temp.
Water temp maxed at 34c 
Ambient was 25c
Way more core voltage for 4.5 that is needed but I was using it to make a point to intel on a rma
It's really a 4.8 core voltage with avx offset 3 which drops clock to 4.5 eventually 
Memory oc 4kMHz

All in all optimus is a great local option obviously as good as heatkiller
I got the product I wanted without custom ordering it directly from watercool because they do not stock a copper/ plexi heatkiller 4 pro and optimus does
Shipping is way cheaper 7.us usps instead of 30 euro fedex
Delivery time was incomparable Optimus clearly wins there  

I will do another test on default mount on optimus and same config on heatkiller asap.
I know this to be an inferior way to mount from many tests with ek evo 
If optimus were running against evo might be relevant but it's not it's against the heatkiller 
But I'll do it none the less


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Looks pretty close to a tie to me heatkiller 1c cooler cpu package temp/ highest core temp.
> Water temp maxed at 34c
> Ambient was 25c
> Way more core voltage for 4.5 that is needed but I was using it to make a point to intel on a rma
> It's really a 4.8 core voltage with avx offset 3 which drops clock to 4.5 eventually
> Memory oc 4kMHz
> 
> All in all optimus is a great local option obviously as good as heatkiller
> I got the product I wanted without custom ordering it directly from watercool because they do not stock a copper/ plexi heatkiller 4 pro and optimus does
> Shipping is way cheaper 7.us usps instead of 30 euro fedex
> Delivery time was incomparable Optimus clearly wins there
> 
> I will do another test on default mount on optimus and same config on heatkiller asap.
> I know this to be an inferior way to mount from many tests with ek evo
> If optimus were running against evo might be relevant but it's not it's against the heatkiller
> But I'll do it none the less


Hey hey, can you share more about your setup? I think you can squeeze more performance out of our block  

-Is the CPU lapped? Custom IHS?
-How tight were the mounting thumb screws? 
-What is your paste/LM situation/application?


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Hey hey, can you share more about your setup? I think you can squeeze more performance out of our block
> 
> -Is the CPU lapped? Custom IHS?
> -How tight were the mounting thumb screws?
> -What is your paste/LM situation/application?


Hi,
I had some mx4 for these test 
I usually use noctua NT-H1 but didn't want to use it all up for this many mounts.
MX4 is actually rated higher than nt-h1 but I believe that is wrong 
I use a X application it's gets good spread

Default 9940x new from rma haven't done anything to it seeing that would void intel warranty.

There is no spring mount obviously like ek and heatkiller have 
So it was just finger tight pretty much like a mono block would go on.
MX4 is pretty wet so it spreads really easily it's not like fighting thermal grizzly.. to spread it's so thick... i personally don't like it.


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I had some mx4 for these test
> I usually use noctua NT-H1 but didn't want to use it all up for this many mounts.
> MX4 is actually rated higher than nt-h1 but I believe that is wrong
> I use a X application it's gets good spread
> 
> Default 9940x new from rma haven't done anything to it seeing that would void intel warranty.
> 
> There is no spring mount obviously like ek and heatkiller have
> So it was just finger tight pretty much like a mono block would go on.
> MX4 is pretty wet so it spreads really easily it's not like fighting thermal grizzly.. to spread it's so thick... i personally don't like it.


Sounds good so far. MX4 2019 is good stuff. 

Can you share a pic of your setup?


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Sounds good so far. MX4 2019 is good stuff.
> 
> Can you share a pic of your setup?


Hi,
Yep 2019 stuff
x299 rig in sig has some older images basically same except I have a watercool copper plexi vrm water block now

It's hell to update images in sig rig believe it or not once it's filled with images. 
I'll take one I'm about to rotate my heatkiller to your optimus default mount position to see how it goes and then reinstall the optimus for final run.


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep 2019 stuff
> x299 rig in sig has some older images basically same except I have a watercool copper plexi vrm water block now
> 
> It's hell to update images in sig rig believe it or not once it's filled with images.
> I'll take one I'm about to rotate my heatkiller to your optimus default mount position to see how it goes and then reinstall the optimus for final run.


Right on. So we think the Optimus block isn't tight enough. I know our mount is weird because it's new (ie no springs), but you can really crank down on it without worrying. Just going gently won't put enough pressure. You should go until you can't turn the thumbnuts anymore by hand. Then you stop.

EDIT: The difference between gentle mounting and strong mounting can be upwards of 8c. Intel is fussy like that. 

EDIT 2: Also, the correct orientation will see an improvement -- ports horizontal (side by side) not stacked top/bottom.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Right on. So we think the Optimus block isn't tight enough. I know our mount is weird because it's new (ie no springs), but you can really crank down on it without worrying. Just going gently won't put enough pressure. You should go until you can't turn the thumbnuts anymore by hand. Then you stop.


Hi,
I sure don't want any bent pins I've been there using spring mounts 
But yes finger tight apex is pretty cramped so I'm sure not going to put any pliers on it 
Maybe Philips head on the nuts would of been appropriate :/


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I sure don't want any bent pins I've been there using spring mounts
> But yes finger tight apex is pretty cramped so I'm sure not going to put any pliers on it
> Maybe Philips head on the nuts would of been appropriate :/


The only way you could bend pins is if you use tools. We've bent intel pins before using a torque driver. But hand tight is very, very hard to bend socket pins.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> The only way you could bend pins is if you use tools. We've bent intel pins before using a torque driver. But hand tight is very, very hard to bend socket pins.


Hi,
Here's the setup atm little cozy 
All fans on 2-280gtx rads are push/ pull
Dual D5 pumps with yes a filter that does restrict flow a tad


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Looks pretty close to a tie to me heatkiller 1c cooler cpu package temp/ highest core temp.
> Water temp maxed at 34c
> Ambient was 25c
> Way more core voltage for 4.5 that is needed but I was using it to make a point to intel on a rma
> It's really a 4.8 core voltage with avx offset 3 which drops clock to 4.5 eventually
> Memory oc 4kMHz
> 
> All in all optimus is a great local option obviously as good as heatkiller
> I got the product I wanted without custom ordering it directly from watercool because they do not stock a copper/ plexi heatkiller 4 pro and optimus does
> Shipping is way cheaper 7.us usps instead of 30 euro fedex
> Delivery time was incomparable Optimus clearly wins there
> 
> I will do another test on default mount on optimus and same config on heatkiller asap.
> I know this to be an inferior way to mount from many tests with ek evo
> If optimus were running against evo might be relevant but it's not it's against the heatkiller
> But I'll do it none the less


About spot on of what I was expecting. Within a margin of error. 
Everything ordered from watercool direct is a custom order. They dont stock anything. I had quite the convo with them some time ago while awaiting parts that showed "available". Turns out that just means they have an upcoming production run of that product.

Definitely puts Optimus as a good choice for US based folks but if the mount is static thats just not a good design IMO and maybe Optimus should look into that.

I run a filter as well but with all my D5s cranked Im topping 7L/min. Its a good comparison. apples for apples with all else being the same but the block.



Thanks for providing your results.


----------



## skupples

your flow is probably still more than fine. that's a small loop.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> About spot on of what I was expecting. Within a margin of error.
> Everything ordered from watercool direct is a custom order. They dont stock anything. I had quite the convo with them some time ago while awaiting parts that showed "available". Turns out that just means they have an upcoming production run of that product.
> 
> Definitely puts Optimus as a good choice for US based folks but if the mount is static thats just not a good design IMO and maybe Optimus should look into that.
> 
> I run a filter as well but with all my D5s cranked Im topping 7L/min. Its a good comparison. apples for apples with all else being the same but the block.


Hi,
Next test is the way you have your heatkiller installed which is pretty much optimus default mount 

I don't mind the static optimus mount 
The optimus mounting bracket is a lot lower than heatkiller or ek evo for that matter 

Once I'm ready for swap out again I'll take some images of side by side to show how much lower optimus is from the bottom of the cold plate.

Really optimus needs longer studs to accommodate for springs...



skupples said:


> your flow is probably still more than fine. that's a small loop.


Hi,
My filter also has a layer of gas filter material on it so that adds restriction but picks up all of the micro crap so it's just needed 
A clogged cpu block sucks I'm still living in ek cryocrap fluid life
Blitz part one and 2 helped but still picking up junk in the cpu without the gas filter added these fine cooling fins pick up everything :/


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Next test is the way you have your heatkiller installed which is pretty much optimus default mount
> 
> I don't mind the static optimus mount
> The optimus mounting bracket is a lot lower than heatkiller or ek evo for that matter
> 
> Once I'm ready for swap out again I'll take some images of side by side to show how much lower optimus is from the bottom of the cold plate.
> 
> Really optimus needs longer studs to accommodate for springs...


We've included the spring mount with our Signature blocks, but we're phasing it out. What happens with spring mounts is the springs compress completely, making them simply static posts. There's really then no point in having springs. Plus, springs bind, the washers slip out, etc. We think springs are a vestigial design from early blocks.



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> My filter also has a layer of gas filter material on it so that adds restriction but picks up all of the micro crap so it's just needed
> A clogged cpu block sucks I'm still living in ek cryocrap fluid life
> Blitz part one and 2 helped but still picking up junk in the cpu without the gas filter added these fine cooling fins pick up everything :/


haha seriously. We've noticed with other brands' products that there are burrs floating in the loop, nickel flakes off, plasticizer from o-rings turns into sludge, etc. Even if a super pure loop, you'll see stuff start to build up. We hate that lol


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> We've included the spring mount with our Signature blocks, but we're phasing it out. What happens with spring mounts is the springs compress completely, making them simply static posts. There's really then no point in having springs. Plus, springs bind, the washers slip out, etc. We think springs are a vestigial design from early blocks.


Hi,
Yep I can't argue with that assessment
Although for tight spots like on apex if I were in the top pci-e slot it's even more of a pain to install a water block 
Screw head on the nuts would go along way 



Optimus WC said:


> haha seriously. We've noticed with other brands' products that there are burrs floating in the loop, nickel flakes off, plasticizer from o-rings turns into sludge, etc. Even if a super pure loop, you'll see stuff start to build up. We hate that lol


Hi,
I live it everyday ek sludge and frankly mayhem as much as I love them find out something bad all the time about their products
X1 fluid doesn't like hardware labs radiators 
50-50% chance x1 will turn greenish :/

Mayhems soft tubing 
Likely to cloud because od temperature issue :/

EK well that's just a long long rant D5 pwm is about the only good item from them


----------



## skupples

all tubing clouds,

turning green... strange. Clearly that means they're using THE BEST copper?


----------



## ciarlatano

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> X1 fluid doesn't like hardware labs radiators
> 50-50% chance x1 will turn greenish :/


I've used X1 clear with a dozen or so different HWL rads with numerous fluid changes and never saw this happen. I've also never seen it reported as happening. Could it be something else in your loop causing it?


----------



## ThrashZone

ciarlatano said:


> I've used X1 clear with a dozen or so different HWL rads with numerous fluid changes and never saw this happen. I've also never seen it reported as happening. Could it be something else in your loop causing it?


Hi,
50-50% for me was one build turned greenish and the other didn't 
So anything is possible 
Even mayhems said it is a possibility and they confirmed by it happening to them 
Mayhems is stumped on exactly why 

The build that did turn greenish was 2-240gtx rads my x99 rig 
x299 rig never did turn greenish and still has x1 in it with 2-280gtx rads
Although tubing did cloud fairly quickly 

x99 has distilled and inhibitor and biocide in it now still clear besides again mayhems soft tubing clouding.


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> X1 fluid doesn't like hardware labs radiators
> 50-50% chance x1 will turn greenish :/


So that's why my last batch of XI turned greenish. I figured I just didn't flush out Blitz part 2 enough.
This time I flushed it out with about 12 liters of distilled so I'll have to keep an eye on it when I add in my remaining X1 and see if it does turn green.

I know my HWL turned Blitz part 1 green.


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> So that's why my last batch of XI turned greenish. I figured I just didn't flush out Blitz part 2 enough.
> This time I flushed it out with about 12 liters of distilled so I'll have to keep an eye on it when I add in my remaining X1 and see if it does turn green.
> 
> I know my HWL turned Blitz part 1 green.


Hi,
If it does high likely hood it will again 
Live with it
Go distilled water inhibitor+ and biocide+ it should stay clear.


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> If it does high likely hood it will again
> Live with it
> Go distilled water inhibitor+ and biocide+ it should stay clear.


Yeah I'll likely end up going back to that. Just have around 5 liters left over of X1 UV clear that I should use before it goes bad so figure I'll use that first and see how it goes. 

Still really can't be the price of distilled water inhibitor+ and biocide+. only $2 for 4 liters of distilled here.


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah I'll likely end up going back to that. Just have around 5 liters left over of X1 UV clear that I should use before it goes bad so figure I'll use that first and see how it goes.
> 
> Still really can't be the price of distilled water inhibitor+ and biocide+. only $2 for 4 liters of distilled here.


Hi,
Yep and lots of ph test strips 
No big deal but this is one of those issues I wish was up front 
I personally wouldn't of bothered with x1 clear knowing this is a real issue.


----------



## Optimus WC

Well, once you go 100% Optimus, you can use just distilled water


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Well, once you go 100% Optimus, you can use just distilled water


Hi,
That would be nice 

One thing I noticed right off the bat when leak testing and lots of bubbles
A lot of fluid does not go through the center jet 
Half goes out below it and flows around the outside of the center area :/

Heatkiller only and small places on each side on the center jet flow that water may divert around if say center gets clogged/...


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> Well, once you go 100% Optimus, you can use just distilled water


you're going to regret saying this some day soon, no matter how technically true it may be, if your radiators create enough sulphate to nuke growth then the Ph doesn't really matter aside from shorter potential radiator life?


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> That would be nice
> 
> One thing I noticed right off the bat when leak testing and lots of bubbles
> A lot of fluid does not go through the center jet
> Half goes out below it and flows around the outside of the center area :/
> 
> Heatkiller only and small places on each side on the center jet flow that water may divert around if say center gets clogged/...


Wait, with the optimus block? The design allows only liquid to go through the jet slot. 

In the pic below, the inlet is on the left side. If you're seeing fluid go around the outside, then it sounds like the in/out are reversed.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Wait, with the optimus block? The design allows only liquid to go through the jet slot.
> 
> In the pic below, the inlet is on the left side. If you're seeing fluid go around the outside, then it sounds like the in/out are reversed.


HI,
I sure don't have inlet/ outlet reversed.


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> HI,
> I sure don't have inlet/ outlet reversed.


Then I'm really confused about what you're describing. How's the fluid not going through the center jet slot? Unlike jet plates, ours is integrated into the material, so it can only go through the slot.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Then I'm really confused about what you're describing. How's the fluid not going through the center jet slot? Unlike jet plates, ours is integrated into the material, so it can only go through the slot.


Hi,
Little iphone video if interested 
PM me with an email it's too big for forum upload


----------



## pewpewlazer

Optimus WC said:


> We've included the spring mount with our Signature blocks, but we're phasing it out. *What happens with spring mounts is the springs compress completely, making them simply static posts*. There's really then no point in having springs. Plus, springs bind, the washers slip out, etc. We think springs are a vestigial design from early blocks.


Hah, that reminds me of the rinky dink springs Dangerden used to include back in the day. If you tightened them down like a proper spring, the damn block would wiggle back and forth when you went to install your tubing! So those indeed turned into 'static posts' as you describe. More compressed = more better, right? My 14 year old self was not a very good engineer LOL. Eventually I ditched the springs and just used wingnuts with washers, until one day I got my hands on a proper dry ice pot that came with some big beefy springs. Finally, springs that worked as springs! Once I knew 10 turns (or whatever the number was) of the thumb nuts got me great temps, I could easily replicate those results on every mount.

So indeed the solution is that simple... use stiffer springs. I was very impressed with the mounting hardware my XSPC Raystorm came with. Tiny little springs, but stiff enough where the motherboard PCB began to bend long before they were even close to fully compressed.

Obviously both methods work (look at GPU blocks for example), but using springs will achieve much more uniform loading and ease of obtaining consistent results compared to just telling people to tighten them down "until you can't turn the thumbnuts anymore by hand".


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Then I'm really confused about what you're describing. How's the fluid not going through the center jet slot? Unlike jet plates, ours is integrated into the material, so it can only go through the slot.


Hi,
Never mind I sent you a pm with a link to my onedrive


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Never mind I sent you a pm with a link to my onedrive


Hard to tell, but it looks fine. As long as the water/bubbles are going through the jet slot, through the fins, then wrapping around and going to the outlet, then it's good. The fluid isn't bypassing the jet slot, it's an illusion


----------



## skupples

BTW, Happy New Years, Optimus


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Hard to tell, but it looks fine. As long as the water/bubbles are going through the jet slot, through the fins, then wrapping around and going to the outlet, then it's good. The fluid isn't bypassing the jet slot, it's an illusion


Hi,
Yeah not 100% water is going through the center jet 
Water likes the least restrictive route though 
I just thought it was strange so much was not going through the center 
Which leads me to believe performance could be improved.

Water still obviously hits the cold plate and fins just not in the middle as one would hope.


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> BTW, Happy New Years, Optimus


Thanks!!!



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah not 100% water is going through the center jet
> Water likes the least restrictive route though
> I just thought it was strange so much was not going through the center
> Which leads me to believe performance could be improved.
> 
> Water still obviously hits the cold plate and fins just not in the middle as one would hope.



I'm not sure how water couldn't be going through the center jet. If you look at the construction, the inlet only goes into the diagonal channel, then into the jet slot. The inlet hole doesn't go all the way through (even though the acrylic is super clear and it might look that way).


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Well, once you go 100% Optimus, you can use just distilled water




Hurry up on the radiators, dual pumps and GPU block for my card then!!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep could be water is going pretty fast so an optical illusion is very possible 
Just finished getting air out of the system and starting last test on optimus default/ recommended mount.

Heatkiller in this mount was ugly


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> Hurry up on the radiators, dual pumps and GPU block for my card then!!


get a 2080ti already, n you'll have a block in a couple weeks.


----------



## lb_felipe

Optimus WC said:


> Well, once you go 100% Optimus, you can use just distilled water


What rad to stick with 100% Optimus in order to use JUST distilled water?


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> get a 2080ti already, n you'll have a block in a couple weeks.


I have one, just the FTW3 one. They need to make a custom one for it.



lb_felipe said:


> What rad to stick with 100% Optimus in order to use JUST distilled water?


They have plans on making radiators as well. No time frame though


----------



## skupples

his point is their marine grade nickel plating is so good that it doesn't matter if you run salt water, or battery acid thru the loop, as far as their product is concerned.

IE: proper nickel plating is marine grade.

though, when running acrylic, the need for proper balance is even less important as you aren't gonna have extreme clouding, & plastic leaching. at that point the only concern i'd have are the radiators. though if you don't intend to run them for more than 3-5 years it probably doesn't matter anyways. 

radiators are copper, copper makes copper sulphate, and copper sulphate in enough volume kills biotics.


----------



## pewpewlazer

skupples said:


> his point is their marine grade nickel plating is so good that it doesn't matter if you run salt water, or battery acid thru the loop, as far as their product is concerned.
> 
> IE: proper nickel plating is marine grade.
> 
> though, when running acrylic, the need for proper balance is even less important as you aren't gonna have extreme clouding, & plastic leaching. at that point the only concern i'd have are the radiators. though if you don't intend to run them for more than 3-5 years it probably doesn't matter anyways.
> 
> radiators are copper, copper makes copper sulphate, and copper sulphate in enough volume kills biotics.


Pardon my ignorance, but what do you expect will happen with copper radiators after the 3-5+ year mark if running pure distilled water with no additives?


----------



## skupples

all i'm saying is no control = high Ph & the least. n radiator channels are thin. it's the only thing left to ponder if you don't have flaking nickel issues, & biological growth under control from your radiator's producing copper sulphate.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Next test is the way you have your heatkiller installed which is pretty much optimus default mount
> 
> I don't mind the static optimus mount
> The optimus mounting bracket is a lot lower than heatkiller or ek evo for that matter
> 
> Once I'm ready for swap out again I'll take some images of side by side to show how much lower optimus is from the bottom of the cold plate.
> 
> Really optimus needs longer studs to accommodate for springs...


looking forward to what you get. I dont like the static mount because there is zero margin for error and why the monoblocks are such huge failures. only takes the hair from a gnats bawlz difference to change everything. Floating with spring pressure IMO is the only way to go.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> looking forward to what you get. I dont like the static mount because there is zero margin for error and why the monoblocks are such huge failures. only takes the hair from a gnats bawlz difference to change everything. Floating with spring pressure IMO is the only way to go.


Hi,
Happy new year !

Original sub comparison
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-54.html#post28259682

Followup setup post
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-55.html#post28259710

In preferred mounting for my system optimus in default mount logo on bottom actually works very well

Optimus wins with the lowest max core temp by 3c and 2c lower on cpu package 
I don't know how Justin's heatkiller likes the position he runs with, mine hates it tried it twice 

So I'll just edit the original test results image and show optimus's new temps and block image to show mounting preferences color me impressed with optimus ! :applaud:


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Happy new year !
> 
> Original sub comparison
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-54.html#post28259682
> 
> Followup setup post
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-55.html#post28259710
> 
> In preferred mounting for my system optimus in default mount logo on bottom actually works very well
> 
> Optimus wins with the lowest max core temp by 3c and 2c lower on cpu package
> I don't know how Justin's heatkiller likes the position he runs with, mine hates it tried it twice
> 
> So I'll just edit the original test results image and show optimus's new temps and block image to show mounting preferences color me impressed with optimus ! :applaud:


Thanks for retesting  

3c is more like it, though there could be more performance there. It looks like the temp min is 2c higher on Optimus (40c vs 38c), which makes me think the ambient changed between the two tests. 

So it's possible the real result is Optimus is 4-5c cooler.

Also worth noting with HEDT CPUs like these, you can see an extra 1-2c improvement with the Signature block over the Foundation block.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Thanks for retesting
> 
> 3c is more like it, though there could be more performance there. It looks like the temp min is 2c higher on Optimus (40c vs 38c), which makes me think the ambient changed between the two tests.
> 
> So it's possible the real result is Optimus is 4-5c cooler.
> 
> Also worth noting with HEDT CPUs like these, you can see an extra 1-2c improvement with the Signature block over the Foundation block.


Hi,
Oddly I believe ambient was nearly the same maybe 1-2 f degrees +-
But still getting air out and swapped to my usual paste nt-h1 see how it does.

NT-H1 3c cpu package same as max core temp 
Stuff gets better after a little while


----------



## skupples

let's just go back to the days of Gelid Extreme reflow pads (pads gives the wrong impression, google it. it's a chunk of solder you reflow  ).


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> NT-H1 -1c cpu package
> Stuff gets better after a little while


Right on  

Edit:
The original HK results: 38c min, 88c av. 
Now Optimus results: 40c min, 85c av. 

The paste test is interesting, though it seems like a lot of variables at play here, incl ambient and the revised results. 

In any case, glad you're getting nice numbers!


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> NT-H1 -1c cpu package
> Stuff gets better after a little while


A little better but still no 5C-8C I expect to see varied results. Nice contender though. Thanks for the retest. 
Let me know when you get to 5C better.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Right on
> 
> Edit:
> The original HK results: 38c min, 88c av.
> Now Optimus results: 40c min, 85c av.
> 
> The paste test is interesting, though it seems like a lot of variables at play here, incl ambient and the revised results.
> 
> In any case, glad you're getting nice numbers!


Hi,
Just shows nt-h1 is good paste 

I run the short test first and often reset hwinfo results so that might explain average and current readings which i don't usually care about only max readings matter to me anyway.
Ambient has been pretty constant 78fah degrees or 25c+

Like I said before heatkiller installed the same way as optimus default was pretty ugly has to be a logical reason but after two tries it stayed too ugly to share cores were 16c apart 

Also measuring the foundations cold plate 
It's finned area is 3/4" longer and 3/16" wider than the heatkillers so it sould cover 99..x series very well so not sure what is different with the signature block.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

It seems very well this waterblock, I did not know
Compared to ekwb Velocity, is it better ?


----------



## ThrashZone

tistou77 said:


> Hello
> 
> It seems very well this waterblock, I did not know
> Compared to ekwb Velocity, is it better ?


Hi,
It's got a 3/4" x 3/16" bigger finned cold plate than the heatkiller 4 pro and ek evo.
I would think the velocity was any different ek just got rid of the razor blade jet plate on the velocity but I don't have one to know for sure.


----------



## skupples

tistou77 said:


> Hello
> 
> It seems very well this waterblock, I did not know
> Compared to ekwb Velocity, is it better ?


absolutely. EK's cpu coolers have fallen off hard in the last few revisions as the others have ACTUALLY innovated (re-not just replacing metal plates with plastic ones, and welding the springs into the cooler)

i went from supremacy (aptly named at the time really) to the modern series (As of 18 months ago) n was a major disappointment. Should've just carried over my supremacy.


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> absolutely. EK's cpu coolers have fallen off hard in the last few revisions as the others have ACTUALLY innovated (re-not just replacing metal plates with plastic ones, and welding the springs into the cooler)
> 
> i went from supremacy (aptly named at the time really) to the modern series (As of 18 months ago) n was a major disappointment. Should've just carried over my supremacy.


Yeah Im with you there. Just sent off my old Supremacy as a donation to a brother in need in Brazil. His old ganked up unknown block had just had it and I wasn't using the Supremacy. Like you and I have both said, they became complacent. Maybe this will drive them to improve. What was once top tier is falling into the realm of mediocre. Even Phanteks is making a go at it and for their second year not doing too bad. Certainly a lot more to choose from but not much in the top tier which is mostly what the enthusiast market is driven by. 

Thrash, you have any side by side photos of the two cold plates? Not much in comparisons out there.

If I were to buy one it would be this one, maybe nest build. ATM HKIV pro serving me well.
https://optimuspc.com/collections/all/products/signature-cpu-block-intel?variant=31257642106963


----------



## tistou77

Ok thanks for your feedback
ekwb will release a new waterblock this 1st quarter, I'll see what it's worth for performance
But this Optimus looks very good, from what you say

What is the difference between Signature v2 and Foundation ?

Thanks


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Thrash, you have any side by side photos of the two cold plates? Not much in comparisons out there.
> 
> If I were to buy one it would be this one, maybe nest build. ATM HKIV pro serving me well.
> https://optimuspc.com/collections/all/products/signature-cpu-block-intel?variant=31257642106963


Hi,
Only for mounting difference side by side optimus middle ek left heatkiller right which hk and optimus height is nearly the same so you might get away using HK's mounting hardware.
Since it's plexi face i just measured from outside where i found out optimus has a huge finned area

Can't see how the signature is different but never know


----------



## tistou77

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Only for mounting difference side by side optimus middle ek left heatkiller right which hk and optimus height is nearly the same so you might get away using HK's mounting hardware.
> Since it's plexi face i just measured from outside where i found out optimus has a huge finned area
> 
> Can't see how the signature is different but never know


Thanks for the screen

Have you tested these 3 blocks?
Optimus is the best if I remember your screens correctly

I was waiting for the new ekwb, but if the Optimus is a little better


----------



## ThrashZone

tistou77 said:


> Thanks for the screen
> 
> Have you tested these 3 blocks?
> Optimus is the best if I remember your screens correctly
> 
> I was waiting for the new ekwb, but if the Optimus is a little better


Hi,
Yes ek lost against heatkiller 
Heatkiller lost against optimus foundation by 3c in the pictured mounting position 
If HK is mounted in the same position as optimus HK looses larger

Just to give an idea of how bad HK core temp spread difference was 16c from coolest to hottest tried it twice same result.
That's why I asked Justin how the heck his mount works for him probably his much better water loop making the difference 
My chip hates it but optimus it likes in that same position


----------



## tistou77

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yes ek lost against heatkiller
> Heatkiller lost against optimus foundation by 3c in the pictured mounting position
> If HK is mounted in the same position as optimus HK looses larger
> 
> Just to give an idea of how bad HK core temp spread difference was 16c from coolest to hottest tried it twice same result.
> That's why I asked Justin how the heck his mount works for him probably his much better water loop making the difference
> My chip hates it but optimus it likes in that same position


Thanks so much

The mounting of your Optimus waterblock is "normal" (same position as shown on your screen) ?


----------



## ThrashZone

tistou77 said:


> Thanks so much
> 
> The mounting of your Optimus waterblock is "normal" (same position as shown on your screen) ?


Hi,
Yep same as the little image shows next to it's results 
NT-H1 paste here hair better
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-59.html#post28261682


----------



## tistou77

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep same as the little image shows next to it's results
> NT-H1 paste here hair better
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-59.html#post28261682


Yes, like this ?









IN/OUT on the same horizontal line


----------



## ThrashZone

tistou77 said:


> Yes, like this ?
> 
> View attachment 315952
> 
> 
> IN/OUT on the same horizontal line


Hi,
Yep inlet left outlet right.
Probably not great for draining but not a big deal besides that.


----------



## tistou77

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep inlet left outlet right.
> Probably not great for draining but not a big deal besides that.


Thanks :thumb:

I hesitate to take this Optimus Foundation (to replace the EK Velocity) or to wait for the new EK and see what it's worth

With Optimus, everything needed for installation is provided ?

And I don't believe but I ask anyway 
There are no holes in the top acrylic to put LEDs ?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Jp's been assimilated :thumb:



Jpmboy said:


> just ordered their nickel/plexi version... Chi-town based, so I had to.


----------



## tistou77

:thumb:

It seems more restrictive than other waterblocks, it doesn't hinder performance at all

If JP's can give us a feeback as soon as he has received and mounted it


----------



## skupples

tistou77 said:


> Thanks :thumb:
> 
> I hesitate to take this Optimus Foundation (to replace the EK Velocity) or to wait for the new EK and see what it's worth
> 
> With Optimus, everything needed for installation is provided ?
> 
> And I don't believe but I ask anyway
> There are no holes in the top acrylic to put LEDs ?


that's some faith, but it's plausible EK will pull their heads from their rears & get some genuine innovation done now that they've permeated every aspect of the market. Their namesake is slipping, otherwise. I mean, worst case scenario is they just clone the competition


----------



## ThrashZone

tistou77 said:


> Thanks :thumb:
> 
> I hesitate to take this Optimus Foundation (to replace the EK Velocity) or to wait for the new EK and see what it's worth
> 
> With Optimus, everything needed for installation is provided ?
> 
> And I don't believe but I ask anyway
> There are no holes in the top acrylic to put LEDs ?


Hi,
Velocity is probably closer to heatkiller 4 pro now since ek removed the razor blade jet plate 
Only new block they might make is a new 3k series amd block.

Doubt anyone cares about rgb stuff at least I don't 

Installation hardware is always includes with blocks but it does not have a spring it's just a simple stud and nut system.
Image posted a while back in this thread.


----------



## ThrashZone

tistou77 said:


> Thanks :thumb:
> 
> I hesitate to take this Optimus Foundation (to replace the EK Velocity) or to wait for the new EK and see what it's worth


Hi,
As you sit you can easily post some results using the velocity against mine 
All core 4.5 and 1.24v manual voltage
I used llc 6 and vccin at 1.93v

Other settings really shouldn't matter to much like system agent.. think the above should get the temps going about the same
My little 2-280gtx rads on ambient air cooling with full blast push-pull fans 2k rpm ml140's


----------



## JustinThyme

tistou77 said:


> :thumb:
> 
> It seems more restrictive than other waterblocks, it doesn't hinder performance at all
> 
> If JP's can give us a feeback as soon as he has received and mounted it


If my 3 D5s in series cant get enough flow then there is a problem. 

I’m good for now, I did a Blender Run this morning for giggles @4.8 1.225 Vcore and got better numbers than thrash for the most part except I have a couple of hot cores so time for a repaste in the least. I’m about to tear into it so it’s now or never. I may just order up the TOL signature then run down thrash and kick bawlz if it sucks! ????????

Time for my annual drain and flush and two HK Strix blocks with backs to replace the phanteks. They worked fine over the last year, I bought them because they were 3 months faster to market than HK or EK.


----------



## JustinThyme

OK Thrash, seeing how I’m an Idiot and spend too much money on stuff I don’t need anyhow I just ordered up the signature V2 nickel. 

As for RGB, those who are worried about it...... doesn’t take much to stick a strip to just about anything. Me, I’m already in RGB overload. My CPU is the only thing that doesn’t have it.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> OK Thrash, seeing how I’m an Idiot and spend too much money on stuff I don’t need anyhow I just ordered up the signature V2 nickel.
> 
> As for RGB, those who are worried about it...... doesn’t take much to stick a strip to just about anything. Me, I’m already in RGB overload. My CPU is the only thing that doesn’t have it.


Welcome to the club!


----------



## tistou77

Thanks so much for your feedback :thumb:


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> OK Thrash, seeing how I’m an Idiot and spend too much money on stuff I don’t need anyhow I just ordered up the signature V2 nickel.
> 
> As for RGB, those who are worried about it...... doesn’t take much to stick a strip to just about anything. Me, I’m already in RGB overload. My CPU is the only thing that doesn’t have it.


Hi,
I don't believe you'll regret it the mount is best just like you have it logo down or up shouldn't make any difference
Although the signature is overkill so you're on your own making now can't blame me I'm on the foundation


----------



## tistou77

Pity that the Signature is not made with a acrylic top 
@JustinThyme, Which model of Signature did you take ?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Only one that I know of they stopped with the flat one I thought he said.


----------



## Shawnb99

tistou77 said:


> Pity that the Signature is not made with a acrylic top
> 
> 
> @JustinThyme, Which model of Signature did you take ?




It’s a solid block so would be different if not impossible to add acrylic. 

He went with the Nickel one like I did. It’s an amazing looking block and damn heavy. 
I’m very impressed with it.


----------



## Optimus WC

Yeah the main feature of the Signature is its monolithic unibody construction which allows a super rigid mounting between cold plate and CPU, something not possible with acrylic. The Foundation uses the same cold plate design. Basically, the Foundation is an acrylic Signature


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Yeah the main feature of the Signature is its monolithic unibody construction which allows a super rigid mounting between cold plate and CPU, something not possible with acrylic. *The Foundation uses the same cold plate design. Basically, the Foundation is an acrylic Signature*


Hi,
Boom that is what I thought I read :thumb:
You have a referral program


----------



## ciarlatano

I have no reason to buy this block. Yet.....I still want to......


----------



## Kashtan

Today i receive my Optimus Waterblock V2 Signature Nickel Bare Die.
Quality a just awesome.
Heavy duty.
I hope - my rig at least will a ready on next week.
Only radiator, fans, tubes and fittings is a rest. I think radiator from light bus - correct for ultimate rig.


----------



## ThrashZone

ciarlatano said:


> I have no reason to buy this block. Yet.....I still want to......


Hi,
lol
Yeah I want two now 
Just drained and cleaned my x99 was sort of anticlimactic reinstalling the heatkiller again :buttkick:

@DooRules is waiting in Canada for the big boy tr3 amd block release


----------



## tistou77

these waterblocks are not available in other stores (amazon, etc ...) ?


----------



## Shawnb99

tistou77 said:


> these waterblocks are not available in other stores (amazon, etc ...) ?


PPC's has them


----------



## ThrashZone

tistou77 said:


> these waterblocks are not available in other stores (amazon, etc ...) ?


Hi,
Performance pc does.

Was said they are working on EU distribution.


----------



## JustinThyme

tistou77 said:


> Pity that the Signature is not made with a acrylic top
> 
> @JustinThyme, Which model of Signature did you take ?


I went Signature V2 Nickel.
https://optimuspc.com/products/signature-cpu-block-intel?variant=31257642106963

The flat it not only for direct die but also for lapped IHS and still available on the site as far as I can see. Im not laping my IHS nor am I delidding this one.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> I went Signature V2 Nickel.
> 
> https://optimuspc.com/products/signature-cpu-block-intel?variant=31257642106963
> 
> 
> 
> The flat it not only for direct die but also for lapped IHS and still available on the site as far as I can see. Im not laping my IHS nor am I delidding this one.




They claim the flat is ONLY for the lapped IHS not direct die as they can’t be sure the direct mounts are even so they suggest the normal one for direct die.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I don't believe you'll regret it the mount is best just like you have it logo down or up shouldn't make any difference
> Although the signature is overkill so you're on your own making now can't blame me I'm on the foundation


I will hunt you down and


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Don't forget your bugger rag that is nasty


----------



## JustinThyme

ciarlatano said:


> I have no reason to buy this block. Yet.....I still want to......


I dont have one either........but did anyhow. 
Like I said Im tearing into my system for annual maintenance anyhow and if its not now it would be another year. Ah Wut Da Fut is $200 anyhow. Ill make my kid eat the value plan at college next semester!


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> I went Signature V2 Nickel.
> https://optimuspc.com/products/signature-cpu-block-intel?variant=31257642106963
> 
> The flat it not only for direct die but also for lapped IHS and still available on the site as far as I can see. Im not laping my IHS nor am I delidding this one.


Hi,
Are you going to try your heatkiller mount with it.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Are you going to try your heatkiller mount with it.


No, not unless I have issues, Actually if I do Id opt for slipping in some springs.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> No, not unless I have issues, Actually if I do Id opt for slipping in some springs.


Hi,
Think all you'd need is one washer to make up a little difference between height if you decide too.
Good thing heatkiller uses bolts instead of studs..
It's lowrider block with the thick bracket I couldn't use ek evo mounting studs it's so low.


----------



## Ricey20

PPCS is OOS/backordered on the AMD Foundation blocks. Any idea when they will get more?


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC I have a suggestion for another product you guys can make since you're doing fittings now. Is rotary fittings. We really more options for high quality rotary fittings that can last years without fear of leaks. The options for good ones are really limited so I'd be interested in you guys applying your high standards to rotary fittings.


----------



## Keith Myers

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC I have a suggestion for another product you guys can make since you're doing fittings now. Is rotary fittings. We really more options for high quality rotary fittings that can last years without fear of leaks. The options for good ones are really limited so I'd be interested in you guys applying your high standards to rotary fittings.


I'll second that motion. The lack of quality rotary fittings at reasonable prices is a problem.


----------



## D-EJ915

Would be nice too for the signature block if it was shiny like the old full nickle EK supremacy. One now looks kind of cheap, reminds me of pot metal lol.


----------



## Optimus WC

Foundation blocks have been really popular, PPCs will be back in stock next week. 

Regarding rotaries, we're definitely going to make them! Or our version of them. We're not big fans of the current designs and how unreliable they are. We'll probably do an adjustable angle fitting that locks into place with a super firm seal. Meaning, it can be any angle, it just won't rotate after being tightened. Of course, we can do regular rotaries, we just want them to be bulletproof. 

As for price, who knows. But we're always about performance and reliability over bargain prices 

As for looks, our satin finishes on our Signature V2 block, fittings, etc. is waaay nicer than the older chrome look (at least, to us). It's the same way high end electronics are made, so like a Surface or Macbook, etc. The faux chrome electroplated nickel -- which we do not use -- is easy to make, but really susceptible to corrosion in liquids. Our professional nickel is far stronger. And, personally, I think the satin bead blasted look is classier than the chrome, but that could be just me


----------



## D-EJ915

Maybe if it didn't have cut corners it would be more high end looking, lol.

On an actual serious note, is the block design on the signature the same as the first model?


----------



## Shawnb99

Hurry up and make a block for my FTW3. I'd like one before the new 3080TI's come out and the need to upgrade consumes me.
Knowing me I'll upgrade anyways


----------



## Optimus WC

D-EJ915 said:


> I mean I guess, comparing macbook and surface is kind of silly though since those are just cheap aluminum for manufacturing simplification and cost reduction. Both MS and Apple said this along with "superior cooling" which is bs, especially for the surface we've had clients complain and return because they are so loud lol.
> 
> Maybe if it didn't have cut corners it would be more high end looking, lol.


Do you have an example of high end quality you're referencing? Much of this is personal taste, obviously.

The Surface uses magnesium and is very well done, arguably the highest end finish in electronics. Yes, their thermals suffer because of form factor. But what is better? 6061-T6 is the best choice for full unibody electronics construction. And chrome-like nickel is far, far cheaper. It's easy to cover up mistakes with chroming, it fills in all the gaps and can make cheap metals look expensive. 

For the top audiophile electronics ($10k+ amplifiers, speakers, etc.) CNCed slabs of aluminum with bead blasting and anodizing is the top choice. Again, personal preference, but for performance and quality, this is the best.


----------



## D-EJ915

My old minidisc player from the 90s was magnesium. https://www.minidisc.org/part_Sony_MZ-E30+E50.html It was not the greatest along with aluminum durability wise the material was so thin that these things were easy to beat up.










I asked some friends and they all said the signature one looked more high end.


----------



## Section31

Can't wait for your 12mm Hardtube fittings to come out.


----------



## D-EJ915

On an actual serious note, is the block design on the signature the same as the first model?


----------



## tistou77

There would be 2 holes to put leds on the Foundation (my geek side ), I would have already ordered one 
There, I hesitate a little


----------



## ThrashZone

D-EJ915 said:


> On an actual serious note, is the block design on the signature the same as the first model?





Optimus WC said:


> Yeah the main feature of the Signature is its monolithic unibody construction which allows a super rigid mounting between cold plate and CPU, something not possible with acrylic. *The Foundation uses the same cold plate design. Basically, the Foundation is an acrylic Signature*


Hi,
First model being the foundation yes.


----------



## Optimus WC

To clarify, the Foundation is based on our Signature V2, not the V1. The Foundation and V2 use the same cold plate and overall design. And, yes, the Foundation has better performance than the Signature V1


----------



## Zurv

Hrmmm, have you guys thought of making water blocks for the 2080ti kingpin cards? I’d replace the crappy evga ones in a sec. evga also doesn’t make them anymore and the are a bunch of grumpy people on the evga forums.

My guess is the coming soon model won’t fit it.

I ordered two foundation blocks today... for the 10980xes that are still on preorder.


----------



## D-EJ915

Optimus WC said:


> To clarify, the Foundation is based on our Signature V2, not the V1. The Foundation and V2 use the same cold plate and overall design. And, yes, the Foundation has better performance than the Signature V1


Okay thank you for clarification


----------



## Optimus WC

Zurv said:


> Hrmmm, have you guys thought of making water blocks for the 2080ti kingpin cards? I’d replace the crappy evga ones in a sec. evga also doesn’t make them anymore and the are a bunch of grumpy people on the evga forums.
> 
> My guess is the coming soon model won’t fit it.
> 
> I ordered two foundation blocks today... for the 10980xes that are still on preorder.



Awesome, thanks for ordering!!

We've gotten more requests for Kingpins than anything else. It'll prob be the first custom block we make after the reference 2080Ti/2080. We def want to do it


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC Please check out the following thread https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...t-die-frame-broke-my-9900ks.html#post28267162 and inform @Kashtan that they should NOT use the Ultra Flat for direct die but should be using the Normal Signature block. Seems they contacted support and weren't told the correct block to use.


----------



## tistou77

For those who have "opened" their waterblock foundation, it seems that the cold plate (where the "fins" are) is larger / wider than on other waterblocks (EatKiller, ek velocity, etc ...) ?
For 18 cores for example, wider fins, ensures better cooling (I don't know if I'm very explicit)

If yes, does it increase dissipation and therefore performance ?

Thanks


----------



## ciarlatano

tistou77 said:


> For those who have "opened" their waterblock foundation, it seems that the cold plate (where the "fins" are) is larger / wider than on other waterblocks (EatKiller, ek velocity, etc ...) ?
> For 18 cores for example, wider fins, ensures better cooling (I don't know if I'm very explicit)
> 
> If yes, does it increase dissipation and therefore performance ?
> 
> Thanks


https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-59.html#post28262296


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah wish I had taken more measurements on the cold plate 
It's finned area is huge 
But the center o-ring does limit the area in width 
The length on the finned area isn't limited.

Another interesting part of the finned area is it's a flat cold plate all the way across and does seem thinner than the heatkiller 

If you've ever opened a heatkiller 4 pro 
On each end on the finned area there is a deeper cove groove which extends deeper than the finned area 

So that indicates the finned area is not as deep as the optimus's finned area thus making it closer to the cpu and giving tighter temp spread across all cores and basically giving it a little better performance.


----------



## tistou77

ciarlatano said:


> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-59.html#post28262296


OK, thanks



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah wish I had taken more measurements on the cold plate
> It's finned area is huge
> But the center o-ring does limit the area in width
> The length on the finned area isn't limited.
> 
> Another interesting part of the finned area is it's a flat cold plate all the way across and does seem thinner than the heatkiller
> 
> If you've ever opened a heatkiller 4 pro
> On each end on the finned area there is a deeper cove groove which extends deeper than the finned area
> 
> So that indicates the finned area is not as deep as the optimus's finned area thus making it closer to the cpu and giving tighter temp spread across all cores and basically giving it a little better performance.


I'm not the EatKiller, but it's the same on the Velocity, a groove that goes around the fins
The cold plate (fin) is larger and looks better for the x299, then

Thanks for info
I'll try to find info on the new Ek Magnitude, but I don't think there is already


----------



## Optimus WC

For any CPU, the higher the surface area, the more cooling potential. Our micro fin design has an absolutely massive surface area. Also, the way the cold plate is designed allows for heat to transfer faster to the fins than other designs. Ultimately, we have 2x-3x the surface area of other cold plates, thus better cooling, especially with very high core counts and high temps. Don't be afraid to push 500w+ into our blocks.


----------



## Zurv

Optimus WC said:


> Awesome, thanks for ordering!!
> 
> We've gotten more requests for Kingpins than anything else. It'll prob be the first custom block we make after the reference 2080Ti/2080. We def want to do it


Cool. I look forward to that.

Another question. I'm still an SLI user (shhh.. I have hopes for Cyberpunk using SLI!)

One system with 2080ti kingpins and another with RTX Titans.

I'm thinking of picking up two blocks for the Titan system. SLI bridge/terminal/etc? You guys making any? 
I personally think it looks better, but because of case issues i can't connect a fitting to the output side of second card.

The ****ty evga kingpin block at least had a input from the top of the card. (i had to get crazy with those cards. The flow is soooooo bad. Both parallel and serial sucked. I ended up Y splitting the water. It works, but ugh! looks so messy.)
the Kingpins are in my HTPC/TV gaming setup. It has to fit in a "small" case (unlike my desktop PC)
I'm not looking forward to getting in there to change the 7900xe to the 10980XE (and change the waterblock to the Optimus.)


----------



## Optimus WC

Zurv said:


> Cool. I look forward to that.
> 
> Another question. I'm still an SLI user (shhh.. I have hopes for Cyberpunk using SLI!)
> 
> One system with 2080ti kingpins and another with RTX Titans.
> 
> I'm thinking of picking up two blocks for the Titan system. SLI bridge/terminal/etc? You guys making any?
> I personally think it looks better, but because of case issues i can't connect a fitting to the output side of second card.
> 
> The ****ty evga kingpin block at least had a input from the top of the card. (i had to get crazy with those cards. The flow is soooooo bad. Both parallel and serial sucked. I ended up Y splitting the water. It works, but ugh! looks so messy.)
> the Kingpins are in my HTPC/TV gaming setup. It has to fit in a "small" case (unlike my desktop PC)
> I'm not looking forward to getting in there to change the 7900xe to the 10980XE (and change the waterblock to the Optimus.)



Awesome setup!! 

And for terminals, absolutely. Our plan is to have a "pro" style terminal option with ports every which way -- similar to that EVGA top, but better. Our block has the screw threads directly into the copper mid plate, no acrylic screw threads. It makes swapping terminals easy and safe. 

As for flow rate, we use the same cold plate as our CPU blocks, which has better flow than most popular CPU blocks on the market right now. And it makes running full CPU/GPU parallel loops doable. 

For multi-GPU terminals, we can easily do that. Haven't gotten many requests yet. If you have something specific in mind, let us know and we'll put it on the design list


----------



## tistou77

Optimus WC said:


> For any CPU, the higher the surface area, the more cooling potential. Our micro fin design has an absolutely massive surface area. Also, the way the cold plate is designed allows for heat to transfer faster to the fins than other designs. Ultimately, we have 2x-3x the surface area of other cold plates, thus better cooling, especially with very high core counts and high temps. Don't be afraid to push 500w+ into our blocks.


Thanks for this information :thumb:

Off chance, there are no holes in the acrylic tops to put leds?


----------



## Optimus WC

tistou77 said:


> Thanks for this information :thumb:
> 
> Off chance, there are no holes in the acrylic tops to put leds?


Nope, no holes  We've found those LED holes are the first point of failure in blocks. We're focusing on pure performance and reliability, dont want to compromise for LEDs.

You can easily add a small LED strip to the outside of the block and it'll look amazing since our acrylic is so clear. It's a little more work than an LED hole, but it's a better long term solution


----------



## tistou77

Optimus WC said:


> Nope, no holes  We've found those LED holes are the first point of failure in blocks. We're focusing on pure performance and reliability, dont want to compromise for LEDs.
> 
> You can easily add a small LED strip to the outside of the block and it'll look amazing since our acrylic is so clear. It's a little more work than an LED hole, but it's a better long term solution


Ok thanks for your reply


----------



## Despotes

Does the Foundation come with a back plate? I keep hearing it doesn't, but the performance-pcs website in the Specs says in The Box, "1 x AMD back plate"


----------



## Optimus WC

Despotes said:


> Does the Foundation come with a back plate? I keep hearing it doesn't, but the performance-pcs website in the Specs says in The Box, "1 x AMD back plate"


That's a typo, foundation blocks come with our streamlined mounting system that uses only thumb nuts, posts and thumb screws.


----------



## tistou77

Optimus WC said:


> That's a typo, foundation blocks come with our streamlined mounting system that uses only thumb nuts, posts and thumb screws.


What about the springs ?

And I just noticed that the IN is "deported" compared to other brands  It's just for "design", I guess


----------



## Zurv

Optimus WC said:


> Awesome setup!!
> 
> And for terminals, absolutely. Our plan is to have a "pro" style terminal option with ports every which way -- similar to that EVGA top, but better. Our block has the screw threads directly into the copper mid plate, no acrylic screw threads. It makes swapping terminals easy and safe.
> 
> As for flow rate, we use the same cold plate as our CPU blocks, which has better flow than most popular CPU blocks on the market right now. And it makes running full CPU/GPU parallel loops doable.
> 
> For multi-GPU terminals, we can easily do that. Haven't gotten many requests yet. If you have something specific in mind, let us know and we'll put it on the design list


My guess is it isn't worth it as few people use SLI 

It also isn't standard as GPU space can be different spacing between cards pre-mobo. (lucky it is limited to 2 cards these days)
I've found most mobo SLI spacing is 3 slots now.

but *I* would get it


----------



## Optimus WC

tistou77 said:


> What about the springs ?
> 
> And I just noticed that the IN is "deported" compared to other brands  It's just for "design", I guess


No springs needed


----------



## tistou77

Optimus WC said:


> No springs needed


Ok, I haven't read all the pages of the topic
Is there a "stop" on the "screws" so that the tightening is "uniform" and not to risk tightening too hard ?

It is true that with the other waterblocks, I always had springs, that reassures a little, by saying that even if the 4 screws are not tightened identically, the "pressure" on the IHS is "the same"

How does it work with a springless assembly ?

Thanks for your help

PS: about the IN, is it just for design?


----------



## Kashtan

I did not find the data - for temperature it is better if 
direct Die and a standard Signature V2 Nickel with liquid metal? 
Or Delidded with liquid metal and polished IHS (or alternative IHS) and use Ultra Flat? 
What is the difference in temperature?


----------



## Optimus WC

tistou77 said:


> Ok, I haven't read all the pages of the topic
> Is there a "stop" on the "screws" so that the tightening is "uniform" and not to risk tightening too hard ?
> 
> It is true that with the other waterblocks, I always had springs, that reassures a little, by saying that even if the 4 screws are not tightened identically, the "pressure" on the IHS is "the same"
> 
> How does it work with a springless assembly ?
> 
> Thanks for your help
> 
> PS: about the IN, is it just for design?


We've found that springs simply aren't needed anymore. While it was popular in the early days of watercooling, the issues you're worried about don't happen any longer. If you tighten with your fingers until you can't tighten any more, then you'll have the correct pressure. The only way we've found to actually damage the CPU or mobo is using power tools or wrenches. 

With our Signature V2 block, we still include springs until we switch out to the new design. With the springs, they compress 100%, making them basically solid standoffs. The pressure with both mounting systems can be felt easily by finger tightening. If you can't tighten any more, then you're good. 

Ideally, we'd move to a torque driver system similar to the Threadripper socket. But we have yet to find a reasonably priced torque driver. Then we could provide perfect torque for every mount 

EDIT: sorry,what do you mean by "IN" for design? The foundation top can be rotated in any way, it's modular like that


----------



## Optimus WC

Zurv said:


> My guess is it isn't worth it as few people use SLI
> 
> It also isn't standard as GPU space can be different spacing between cards pre-mobo. (lucky it is limited to 2 cards these days)
> I've found most mobo SLI spacing is 3 slots now.
> 
> but *I* would get it


We have gotten lots of request for multi GPU sans SLI. Basically, rendering or AI systems. We've done a bit of AI/ML work and built rendering rigs. Basically the more GPUs, the better. 

I like the look of solid multi terminals, but I think for flexibility an option that allows multiple GPUs to be connected via tubing easily would be popular, especially for the professional users who don't care about the slick terminal look. 

And then have it designed with quick disconnects in mind will make adding a GPU super easy.


----------



## ciarlatano

Optimus WC said:


> We've found that springs simply aren't needed anymore. While it was popular in the early days of watercooling, the issues you're worried about don't happen any longer. If you tighten with your fingers until you can't tighten any more, then you'll have the correct pressure. The only way we've found to actually damage the CPU or mobo is using power tools or wrenches.
> 
> With our Signature V2 block, we still include springs until we switch out to the new design. With the springs, they compress 100%, making them basically solid standoffs. The pressure with both mounting systems can be felt easily by finger tightening. If you can't tighten any more, then you're good.
> 
> Ideally, we'd move to a torque driver system similar to the Threadripper socket. But we have yet to find a reasonably priced torque driver. Then we could provide perfect torque for every mount


Deja vu......I feel like we are destined to have every topic of the entire thread regurgitated.......


----------



## tistou77

Optimus WC said:


> We've found that springs simply aren't needed anymore. While it was popular in the early days of watercooling, the issues you're worried about don't happen any longer. If you tighten with your fingers until you can't tighten any more, then you'll have the correct pressure. The only way we've found to actually damage the CPU or mobo is using power tools or wrenches.
> 
> With our Signature V2 block, we still include springs until we switch out to the new design. With the springs, they compress 100%, making them basically solid standoffs. The pressure with both mounting systems can be felt easily by finger tightening. If you can't tighten any more, then you're good.
> 
> Ideally, we'd move to a torque driver system similar to the Threadripper socket. But we have yet to find a reasonably priced torque driver. Then we could provide perfect torque for every mount


Okay thanks for your explanations

Just tighten with your fingers until it "locks" (I would take a Foundation)
It is true that with the springs, I never tighten the screws completely 

And for the IN "deported" (especially out of curiosity I ask ) ?


----------



## tistou77

ciarlatano said:


> Deja vu......I feel like we are destined to have every topic of the entire thread regurgitated.......


The 1st post should be updated


----------



## Optimus WC

Kashtan said:


> I did not find the data - for temperature it is better if
> direct Die and a standard Signature V2 Nickel with liquid metal?
> Or Delidded with liquid metal and polished IHS (or alternative IHS) and use Ultra Flat?
> What is the difference in temperature?


The very best is direct die with standard Signature V2 and liquid metal. 

The next best is a lapped IHS with our flat block. And then it is delidded with LM.

Delidding always is better. However, the difference between a lapped IHS and our flat block vs regular IHS and our standard block is small. Direct die is always the best


----------



## skupples

sli is totally coming back during the next gaming cycle. mark my words. How else do you expect PC Exclusives to max out HDMI2.1/DP9000 ports?

EK FC terminals were, are and will always be garbage. That 5 micron O-ring = epic fail of a design.

anyone that's had a pinch or high pressure squirt because of those god awful o-rings will agree


----------



## Optimus WC

tistou77 said:


> And for the IN "deported" (especially out of curiosity I ask ) ?


Can you rephrase this? I'm really not understanding what you're asking


----------



## tistou77

Optimus WC said:


> Can you rephrase this? I'm really not understanding what you're asking


With the other brands, the IN is just above the "jetplate"on the top, with the Optimus waterblocks, the IN is "deported" (and there is a small channel for the liquid to go to the "jetplate")

Sorry for my english


----------



## Kashtan

Optimus WC said:


> The very best is direct die with standard Signature V2 and liquid metal.
> 
> The next best is a lapped IHS with our flat block. And then it is delidded with LM.
> 
> Delidding always is better. However, the difference between a lapped IHS and our flat block vs regular IHS and our standard block is small. Direct die is always the best


Thank you.


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> sli is totally coming back during the next gaming cycle. mark my words. How else do you expect PC Exclusives to max out HDMI2.1/DP9000 ports?
> 
> EK FC terminals were, are and will always be garbage. That 5 micron O-ring = epic fail of a design.
> 
> anyone that's had a pinch or high pressure squirt because of those god awful o-rings will agree


Yeah, no epic fails here 

For SLI, I'm curious to see if AMD (or Intel) allows multiple GPUs on one card, like that Mac Pro "totally not a PC" PC.


----------



## Zurv

skupples said:


> sli is totally coming back during the next gaming cycle. mark my words. How else do you expect PC Exclusives to max out HDMI2.1/DP9000 ports?
> 
> EK FC terminals were, are and will always be garbage. That 5 micron O-ring = epic fail of a design.
> 
> anyone that's had a pinch or high pressure squirt because of those god awful o-rings will agree


My problem with the EK terminals (it is their waterblocks...) is that they cracked!!

When i used to run a few quad SLI systems i'd always buy extra blocks because i knew a few of them were going to crack.

One of the things that draws me to Optimus is the total quality of the blocks, not just the cooling. cracked block SUCK!

yes, multi GPU has to make a come back, that or cards have to double in power. 
My TV can do 4k 120hz (assuming i had a hdmi 2.1 card).. but 1 GPU isn't getting that. Hell 4k 60 is a problem most of the time. RT also works with multi cards. If i were nvidia i'd be pushing SLI for high FPS @4k and RT  (shadow of the TR, even for RT, needed 2 cards to rock 4k with all the eye candy. It supports SLI.)
hrmm.. cyberpunk... 4k... ray tracing... (in their demos they had to do ray tracing at 1080p  booo! ) The Witcher 3 had 4 way sli support  
(of course i'd still be using 4 way sli too.. so i might be a crazy person.)


----------



## Optimus WC

tistou77 said:


> With the other brands, the IN is just above the "jetplate"on the top, with the Optimus waterblocks, the IN is "deported" (and there is a small channel for the liquid to go to the "jetplate")
> 
> Sorry for my english


Ah! Not sure "deported" is the right word here . Maybe "offset"? Not sure. We put the parts farther apart, because if the port was right above the slot, the ports would be too close together. Our Signature ports are offset, for the Foundation we made them perfectly symmetrical so it looks better. Really, the port offsets are for practical and aesthetic reasons, not performance


----------



## tistou77

Optimus WC said:


> Ah! Not sure "deported" is the right word here . Maybe "offset"? Not sure. We put the parts farther apart, because if the port was right above the slot, the ports would be too close together. Our Signature ports are offset, for the Foundation we made them perfectly symmetrical so it looks better. Really, the port offsets are for practical and aesthetic reasons, not performance


Yes, offset is better (I was looking for the word)

Thanks :thumb:


----------



## ciarlatano

tistou77 said:


> With the other brands, the IN is just above the "jetplate"on the top, with the Optimus waterblocks, the IN is "deported" (and there is a small channel for the liquid to go to the "jetplate")
> 
> Sorry for my english


Many blocks have offset inlets -

EK Supremacy









EK Velocity (not as drastic, but still offset)









Raystorm Pro


----------



## Optimus WC

Zurv said:


> My problem with the EK terminals (it is their waterblocks...) is that they cracked!!
> 
> When i used to run a few quad SLI systems i'd always buy extra blocks because i knew a few of them were going to crack.
> 
> One of the things that draws me to Optimus is the total quality of the blocks, not just the cooling. cracked block SUCK!
> 
> yes, multi GPU has to make a come back, that or cards have to double in power.
> My TV can do 4k 120hz (assuming i had a hdmi 2.1 card).. but 1 GPU isn't getting that. Hell 4k 60 is a problem most of the time. RT also works with multi cards. If i were nvidia i'd be pushing SLI for high FPS @4k and RT  (shadow of the TR, even for RT, needed 2 cards to rock 4k with all the eye candy. It supports SLI.)
> hrmm.. cyberpunk... 4k... ray tracing... (in their demos they had to do ray tracing at 1080p  booo! ) The Witcher 3 had 4 way sli support
> (of course i'd still be using 4 way sli too.. so i might be a crazy person.)


Haha, cracks are the worst. When building Optimus and testing everything out there, we're just shocked how easily blocks crack and nickel flakes and other cheap materials fall apart. Putting screws into acrylic is begging for cracks and stripped threads. These are expensive systems, liquid cooling component quality needs to be A+.


----------



## tistou77

ciarlatano said:


> Many blocks have offset inlets -
> 
> EK Supremacy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK Velocity (not as drastic, but still offset)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Raystorm Pro


Yes, when I said "just above", there is a slight offset 
But compared to Optimus, the offset is more important


----------



## skupples

Zurv said:


> My problem with the EK terminals (it is their waterblocks...) is that they cracked!!
> 
> When i used to run a few quad SLI systems i'd always buy extra blocks because i knew a few of them were going to crack.
> 
> One of the things that draws me to Optimus is the total quality of the blocks, not just the cooling. cracked block SUCK!
> 
> yes, multi GPU has to make a come back, that or cards have to double in power.
> My TV can do 4k 120hz (assuming i had a hdmi 2.1 card).. but 1 GPU isn't getting that. Hell 4k 60 is a problem most of the time. RT also works with multi cards. If i were nvidia i'd be pushing SLI for high FPS @4k and RT  (shadow of the TR, even for RT, needed 2 cards to rock 4k with all the eye candy. It supports SLI.)
> hrmm.. cyberpunk... 4k... ray tracing... (in their demos they had to do ray tracing at 1080p  booo! ) The Witcher 3 had 4 way sli support
> (of course i'd still be using 4 way sli too.. so i might be a crazy person.)


yeaaah. I went back down to 3440x1440p120 after 2 years @ 4K60, after finding 2080ti to be a rather disappointing release. 

and as to cracking EK blocks - that's why I tried to stick with their derlin tops for as long as they made em.


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> yeaaah. I went back down to 3440x1440p120 after 2 years @ 4K60, after finding 2080ti to be a rather disappointing release.
> 
> and as to cracking EK blocks - that's why I tried to stick with their derlin tops for as long as they made em.


Interestingly, our cast acrylic is FAR better in every way than acetal (aka pom/delrin/etc). Acetal is very, very soft and can easily be stripped by a fitting or cross threaded. Burrs are also a big problem with acetal. And acetal stinks from all the formaldehyde. 

Cast acrylic correctly machined is easily the best plastic material for liquid cooling. It'll take some work to get over people's understandable fear of acrylic


----------



## skupples

yep, I finally stripped one of the fitting ports on a 1080ti terminal. that + dropping CPU perf = my bye bye to EK for awhile.


the pom is soft, but at least it didn't crack like their clear tops  

threading plastic just seems like such a bad idea, specially when people are giving a company 1.5+ Benjamin's for the product.

random thought kinda question, OPTIMUS - 

Your GPU block O-ring... Is it your standard floppy o-ring? Or is it formed/rigid? (idk anyone using rigid, just curious as putting o-rings back in is painful)


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> yep, I finally stripped one of the fitting ports on a 1080ti terminal. that + dropping CPU perf = my bye bye to EK for awhile.
> 
> 
> the pom is soft, but at least it didn't crack like their clear tops
> 
> threading plastic just seems like such a bad idea, specially when people are giving a company 1.5+ Benjamin's for the product.
> 
> random thought kinda question, OPTIMUS -
> 
> Your GPU block O-ring... Is it your standard floppy o-ring? Or is it formed/rigid? (idk anyone using rigid, just curious as putting o-rings back in is painful)


Even better, our GPU ditches the o-ring for a custom single piece gasket  So in the pic below, imagine the o-rings are merged into a single formed gasket cut from a sheet of EPDM rubber. It's a better seal, super durable, creates separate flow paths and takes all of 2 seconds to install. No more struggling with GPU o-rings 

FYI, GPUs start shipping this week!


----------



## ciarlatano

Optimus WC said:


> Even better, our GPU ditches the o-ring for a custom single piece gasket  So in the pic below, imagine the o-rings are merged into a single formed gasket cut from a sheet of EPDM rubber. It's a better seal, super durable, creates separate flow paths and takes all of 2 seconds to install. No more struggling with GPU o-rings
> 
> FYI, GPUs start shipping this week!


Great idea!


----------



## Zurv

Optimus WC said:


> Even better, our GPU ditches the o-ring for a custom single piece gasket  So in the pic below, imagine the o-rings are merged into a single formed gasket cut from a sheet of EPDM rubber. It's a better seal, super durable, creates separate flow paths and takes all of 2 seconds to install. No more struggling with GPU o-rings
> 
> FYI, GPUs start shipping this week!


When do you plan to sell the _"pro" style terminal option with ports every which way _ - i'm jump in to try that GPU blocks then. 

Also, do you plan to sell on amazon? yes, evil empire, but makes ordering ez and i can use points


----------



## Optimus WC

Zurv said:


> When do you plan to sell the _"pro" style terminal option with ports every which way _ - i'm jump in to try that GPU blocks then.
> 
> Also, do you plan to sell on amazon? yes, evil empire, but makes ordering ez and i can use points


Terminals are easy to make, so we can probably get it done a couple weeks after the GPU launches. It's hard to know what kind of demand will be for it, but knowing you want one helps move things along. 

As for Amazon, it should be set up shortly. They definitely make the impulse purchase easy


----------



## Zurv

I ordered some of the GPU blocks for my RTX Titan SLI. 

Do you guys have pix with cards mounted? I assume there is no backplate (which is fine. As long as i don't bump chips off the back of the card... oooops... )
What i do like about bitspower block is they let you just use the backplate from the FE. What type of pads do you ship with? how thick? should i break out the fujis? 

As a terminal bridge junky.. there has to be an ez'r way that just putting tubes between the 2 cards? I always miss measure and make the tube a little to long or short.. grrrr.... (i don't know how those hard tube people build systems.  )

(darn shame this are going in Titans as they are super limited when OC'n. There aren't options to load in a bios with a higher power limit like the 2080 ti.)


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Think all you'd need is one washer to make up a little difference between height if you decide too.
> Good thing heatkiller uses bolts instead of studs..
> It's lowrider block with the thick bracket I couldn't use ek evo mounting studs it's so low.


Thanks for the tip. Ill know more once I have the block in hand. Ordered it Friday about mid day but no shipping notification yet. Went for the USPS Priority as I couldn't bear the rates for expedited from $36-$79. So Im expecting it probably Wednesday. Going to take some time to get it in and running as the inlet is on the left instead of the right so a lot of work to do on tubing.


----------



## Optimus WC

Zurv said:


> I ordered some of the GPU blocks for my RTX Titan SLI.
> 
> Do you guys have pix with cards mounted? I assume there is no backplate (which is fine. As long as i don't bump chips off the back of the card... oooops... )
> What i do like about bitspower block is they let you just use the backplate from the FE. What type of pads do you ship with? how thick? should i break out the fujis?
> 
> As a terminal bridge junky.. there has to be an ez'r way that just putting tubes between the 2 cards? I always miss measure and make the tube a little to long or short.. grrrr.... (i don't know how those hard tube people build systems.  )
> 
> (darn shame this are going in Titans as they are super limited when OC'n. There aren't options to load in a bios with a higher power limit like the 2080 ti.)


Awesome!  

We're including FujiPoly GR45 pads with the blocks. So the good stuff (though not as crazy as the Fuji XR-M, but that'd like add another $50 to the card  )

And the pads are all 0.5mm with awesome contact. Not the fat pads to make up for wonky blocks. 

For running flex tubes with our pro terminals, it'll be easy to use the "top" ports and do a simple loop, either series or parallel. Should be much easier than trying to measure/assemble tiny tubing chunks.


----------



## skupples

awesome.

so in short, "no, we don't use the standard c-ring, we punched a gasket" and you ship with fujipoly mid tier? i like you! (anyone that hasn't used it, it's basically clay... pros & cons)



next week? I better get this new desk installed then.


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> awesome.
> 
> so in short, "no, we don't use the standard c-ring, we punched a gasket" and you ship with fujipoly mid tier? i like you! (anyone that hasn't used it, it's basically clay... pros & cons)
> 
> 
> 
> next week? I better get this new desk installed then.


Haha, and no punching here. We precision cut our gaskets


----------



## lb_felipe

@Optimus WC

Is this list of components below suitable for your conflict-free materials phylosophy (flaky-free and plasticizer-free and just pure H2O)? I believe the only warn falls on rads. Some reservation?

By that philosophy, I find also banishing rotary fittings, quick disconnect fittings, temp probe, flow rate sensor, etc and others needless gadgets is worthy of consideration. Am I wrong?

01 x Optimus Foundation CPU Block - AMD
01 x Optimus Absolute GPU Block - RTX 2080 Ti
01 x Optimus Absolute D5 Reservoir System
02 x Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS
10 x Optimus Flex Compression Fitting
01 x Watercool EPDM Tubing ID 3/8" - 5/8" OD (16/10mm) black matte
01 x Alphacool Ultra Pure Water canister 5000ml


----------



## bullydog

Hi Optimus Team,
Sorry to post here but may i ask if my order has any scheduled ETA? 
I've sent 2 paypal payments on the 27th and have yet to receive any order processing status or tracking number or estimated timeline on my order. I understand we are just coming out from the holiday period but if i can have some delivery estimates that would be a great help with my my build plan and parts ordering 

thanks in advance


----------



## Kashtan

Optimus WC said:


> The very best is direct die with standard Signature V2 and liquid metal.
> 
> The next best is a lapped IHS with our flat block. And then it is delidded with LM.
> 
> Delidding always is better. However, the difference between a lapped IHS and our flat block vs regular IHS and our standard block is small. Direct die is always the best


A last question: if an Ultra Flat waterblock V2 Signature sits completely on the Direct Die of the 9900K without touching the frame (in this case rockit), will it equal the performance of standard V2 Signature Nickel at Direct Die?
If any doubt, I will look for the possibility of a return, replacement, or sale here in my country Ultra Flat, and take the correct proper standard V2 Signature Nickel.

Is there any information that this person used the frame Direct Die? If from rockit, then the question to my question has been received, as is his Gene is in fact my Apex XI.


----------



## Shawnb99

Kashtan said:


> A last question: if an Ultra Flat waterblock V2 Signature sits completely on the Direct Die of the 9900K without touching the frame (in this case rockit), will it equal the performance of standard V2 Signature Nickel at Direct Die?
> 
> If any doubt, I will look for the possibility of a return, replacement, or sale here in my country Ultra Flat, and take the correct proper standard V2 Signature Nickel.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any information that this person used the frame Direct Die? If from rockit, then the question to my question has been received, as is his Gene is in fact my Apex XI.




I have the Rockit Cool direct die mount and the XI Apex and as told the standard mount was best. They even went as far as to change my order of an ultra flat to the standard mount when I informed them of my setup, so I’d suggest going with the standard mount.


----------



## skupples

lb_felipe said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Is this list of components below suitable for your conflict-free materials phylosophy (flaky-free and plasticizer-free and just pure H2O)? I believe the only warn falls on rads. Some reservation?
> 
> By that philosophy, I find also banishing rotary fittings, quick disconnect fittings, temp probe, flow rate sensor, etc and others needless gadgets is worthy of consideration. Am I wrong?
> 
> 01 x Optimus Foundation CPU Block - AMD
> 01 x Optimus Absolute GPU Block - RTX 2080 Ti
> 01 x Optimus Absolute D5 Reservoir System
> 02 x Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS
> 10 x Optimus Flex Compression Fitting
> 01 x Watercool EPDM Tubing ID 3/8" - 5/8" OD (16/10mm) black matte
> 01 x Alphacool Ultra Pure Water canister 5000ml


wrong? depends on what you wanna do.

QDCs are great if you tinker often, as they save a ton of time. 

temp probes? again, great if you tinker & wanna dial in accurate opinions about the functionality of your equipment. You at least want ambient/case temp & water temp. I have an external temp probe, internal case temp probe, and a water probe. All synced to aquaero FTW. 

rotary fittings? I agree. Go with QUALITY barbs(not from BP though cuz they're stupidly expensive), save a ton of money, & call it a day.


----------



## knightriot

skupples said:


> wrong? depends on what you wanna do.
> 
> QDCs are great if you tinker often, as they save a ton of time.
> 
> temp probes? again, great if you tinker & wanna dial in accurate opinions about the functionality of your equipment. You at least want ambient/case temp & water temp. I have an external temp probe, internal case temp probe, and a water probe. All synced to aquaero FTW.
> 
> rotary fittings? I agree. Go with QUALITY barbs(not from BP though cuz they're stupidly expensive), save a ton of money, & call it a day.


can confirm that about qdc fittings, i use them all in my loop and never back to hard tubes again


----------



## Shawnb99

I can’t imagine not having QDC’s in my setup. Accessing the pedestal can be a PIA and without QDC’s it would be a nightmare. 
Plus with the MB tray being able to slide out makes QDC’s a must unless you want to keep draining everything every time


----------



## Optimus WC

lb_felipe said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Is this list of components below suitable for your conflict-free materials phylosophy (flaky-free and plasticizer-free and just pure H2O)? I believe the only warn falls on rads. Some reservation?
> 
> By that philosophy, I find also banishing rotary fittings, quick disconnect fittings, temp probe, flow rate sensor, etc and others needless gadgets is worthy of consideration. Am I wrong?
> 
> 01 x Optimus Foundation CPU Block - AMD
> 01 x Optimus Absolute GPU Block - RTX 2080 Ti
> 01 x Optimus Absolute D5 Reservoir System
> 02 x Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS
> 10 x Optimus Flex Compression Fitting
> 01 x Watercool EPDM Tubing ID 3/8" - 5/8" OD (16/10mm) black matte
> 01 x Alphacool Ultra Pure Water canister 5000ml



Yes, that list is mostly correct! A couple notes:

-You don't need the Ultra Pure Water. It's just distilled water. Use distilled or any clear coolant you want. Avoid solid colors (opaques, pastels) if you're going for long-term usage.
-We DON'T recommend flow sensors or temp probes that use bad nickel fittings. They're really not needed anyway. 
-We DO recommend QDCs by CPC. The poly ones are the same that EK sells. They're made by CPC, which is the top disconnect brand for pro use. 
-We DON'T recommend other QDCs by other liquid cooling companies. The ones that are nickel or black painted flake very, very fast. 
-We will be making rotary fittings eventually, though it will be a few months at the earliest.


----------



## Optimus WC

Kashtan said:


> A last question: if an Ultra Flat waterblock V2 Signature sits completely on the Direct Die of the 9900K without touching the frame (in this case rockit), will it equal the performance of standard V2 Signature Nickel at Direct Die?
> If any doubt, I will look for the possibility of a return, replacement, or sale here in my country Ultra Flat, and take the correct proper standard V2 Signature Nickel.
> 
> Is there any information that this person used the frame Direct Die? If from rockit, then the question to my question has been received, as is his Gene is in fact my Apex XI.


Hey, to answer your question: yes, it should theoretically perform the exact same. The person who got those numbers used, I believe, the Rokit frame and had to shave some of the metal off in places. It's not an exact thing.


----------



## skupples

I have 2 sets of powdered QDCs from Swiftech that i'll never use due to the coating making it an absolute pain to mate/trigger release.


----------



## Section31

I did the hybrid version of soft tubing/qdc and brass tubing/drain valve on my recent personal build. Not too much work draining required to work on either cpu. Gpu is just quick disconnect.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, that list is mostly correct! A couple notes:
> 
> -You don't need the Ultra Pure Water. It's just distilled water. Use distilled or any clear coolant you want. Avoid solid colors (opaques, pastels) if you're going for long-term usage.
> -We DON'T recommend flow sensors or temp probes that use bad nickel fittings. They're really not needed anyway.
> -We DO recommend QDCs by CPC. The poly ones are the same that EK sells. They're made by CPC, which is the top disconnect brand for pro use.
> -We DON'T recommend other QDCs by other liquid cooling companies. The ones that are nickel or black painted flake very, very fast.
> -We will be making rotary fittings eventually, though it will be a few months at the earliest.


Need to make your own QDC's then, as well and flow meter and temp sensors. 

Just more things for you guys to make.


----------



## JustinThyme

Thing is to avoid flow sensors, I find them useless. Bitspower makes one that to get the darn thing to turn you have to choke it down to an opening about the size of a BIC pen which puts a huge restriction on it. I do however use a flow meter, big difference. Most of those have acetal bodies so no worries there. aquaero has one thats awesome. Same for a good quality temp sensor. The digital one I use from aquaero reports via aquabus. Some dont care but I want to know what my liquid temp is, thats what controls my fan speeds for the rads. There are others out there that use acetal blocks, barrowch actually make a decent one that Ive used for a year that not only reports the temp back to my aquaero controller it also has an OLED display. I see a lot of folks using the TT Pacifica ones that IMO are cheap and ugly, all plastic.

https://www.aquatuning.us/water-coo...lMb9TqGNj8Br6jtDC9LTJgWFB8iqa_PBoC3PgQAvD_BwE


----------



## Zurv

I find flow sensors key to my set ups. I change stuff around a lot and i want to know when something is screwing up the flow (ie, EVGA kingpin blocks!), I use the koolance meter and i always have a display of water speed and temp. My fan speed is connected to water temp too.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I just install a temp sensor and be done with it 

http://www.xs-pc.com/temperature-sensors/lcd-temperature-display-g14-inline-sensor


----------



## Keith Myers

I recently added a flowmeter to my 3950X host because I could not see that the pump was not running correctly and temps were higher than they should have been. Direct 12V SATA power connection so no independent rpm of the pump speed. Pump was repaired and now I have a benchmark for fluid rate via the flowmeter rpm sensor.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Usually reservoir activity can say what flow is doing 
Large reservoirs it may not be as obvious or if one totally fills the reservoir up with fluid fortunately I'm neither of those two examples


----------



## Kashtan

Optimus WC said:


> Hey, to answer your question: yes, it should theoretically perform the exact same. The person who got those numbers used, I believe, the Rokit frame and had to shave some of the metal off in places. It's not an exact thing.


And again thank you.

If the only problem is to shave the frame, then your words to me like a balm for the soul!
I have already put up my Ultra Flat for sale, but fortunately, I will cancel the sale.


----------



## Kashtan

I look stream from CES right now, present at least 3990X.
You can made Waterblock for Threadripper 2 type Signature V2 Nickel Ultra Flat? Polished IHS - is a top cooling for CPUs AMD.


----------



## BleedOutCold

Optimus WC said:


> We're including FujiPoly GR45 pads with the blocks. So the good stuff (though not as crazy as the Fuji XR-M, but that'd like add another $50 to the card  )


In all seriousness, some of us are spending that anyway when we replace stock pads with 17wmk we have to separately order and then cut to fit. Maybe offer an option for 11 or 17wmk fujipoly pads at an upcharge? I'd pay it for sure.

Any plans to offer a vertical mount friendly GPU block design, with intended flow coming from the opposite port from normal?


----------



## mgoldb2

@Optimus WC do you have any plans to offer Soft Tube Flex Compression Fitting in size 1/2"-3/4"?


----------



## Zurv

BleedOutCold said:


> In all seriousness, some of us are spending that anyway when we replace stock pads with 17wmk we have to separately order and then cut to fit. Maybe offer an option for 11 or 17wmk fujipoly pads at an upcharge? I'd pay it for sure.
> 
> Any plans to offer a vertical mount friendly GPU block design, with intended flow coming from the opposite port from normal?


Good idea. I already ordered pads for the 2 blocks I ordered. ????


----------



## Keith Myers

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Usually reservoir activity can say what flow is doing
> Large reservoirs it may not be as obvious or if one totally fills the reservoir up with fluid fortunately I'm neither of those two examples


My reservoir/pump combo does not show any movement of fluid, ever. All you can do is put your hand on the unit and feel for vibrations. The fluid enters the IN port at the same level as the OUT port. You never see any fluid motion so impossible to tell if it is actually moving fluid unless you see any bubbles moving through the hoses or pinch off a hose and try to hear the pump pitch change over the restriction.


----------



## Optimus WC

To answer questions:

-Great idea with the Fuji XR. We'll probably end up doing that (because we're doing that internally, we're crazy like that), though it'll need to be after the GPU launches since we're already stretching our good will on preorders with the time it's taking to ship. 

-Fitting sizes: Yes, we'll be making all versions of fittings in prob Q1 into Q2 of this year. 

-3990x: WOOOO! Yeah, this thing is gonna be a beast. The best performance to be had will be our Absolute Threadripper 3+ block. We are going to match the Threadripper IHS for these models (since they're made by a diff fab, in case there is a difference). We don't plan on doing a super flat version to match a lapped IHS. Sanding a CPU that big/expensive is prob not the typical use case. As for a Signature TR block, not sure there will be any performance left over from our Absolute. We may do a full metal version just to do it, though we'll need to test and see if we can squeeze a few Cs pushing the 64 core over 1000w 

-VERTICAL GPU: what are you imagining exactly? Inlet on the right, not the left? If anything, I want to make a replacement terminal that has ports on the back (when looking at it straight on) and the top. This would make for a super clean parallel loop, especially since we use the same cold plates, thus restriction on both cpu and gpu blocks.


----------



## shiokarai

Optimus WC said:


> Awesome!
> 
> We're including FujiPoly GR45 pads with the blocks. So the good stuff (though not as crazy as the Fuji XR-M, but that'd like add another $50 to the card  )
> 
> And the pads are all 0.5mm with awesome contact. Not the fat pads to make up for wonky blocks.
> 
> For running flex tubes with our pro terminals, it'll be easy to use the "top" ports and do a simple loop, either series or parallel. Should be much easier than trying to measure/assemble tiny tubing chunks.


so thermal pads on memory too? aquacomputer blocks kryographics next has thermal paste on memory (=better temps), I own 2 and they're absolutely perfectly machined pieces of art  super tight machining tolerance for such a thing is needed I assume (ie. for thermal paste on memory instead of thermal pads).


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Usually reservoir activity can say what flow is doing
> Large reservoirs it may not be as obvious or if one totally fills the reservoir up with fluid fortunately I'm neither of those two examples


Lets just all be clear as this has come up before. 

There is a distinct difference between a flow indicator being a clear hamster wheel that is purely aesthetic and never moves correctly and a flow meter which is an actual precision instrument the puts out a signal to measure actual flow rate. 

I use the latter to feed back to my aquaero and I use a liquid temps sensor as well. 

These two allow me to control PWM D5 pump speeds and PWM fan speeds with a hysterics you just cant get from ANY mobo or other controller. You can't use CPU temps as a reference unless you like hearing fans ramping quickly all the time. 

Mine is off of 100% liquid temp control which is what the pumps and fans are cooling. Takes awhile for 2 liters of liquid to heat up as well as cool down. 

Nothing usually hits max speed unless Im running a hard bench in a loop and that take some time with a very slow ramp. Ive tried everything else under the sun. 

Using a mobo you have high and low temps on liquid set so far apart it lets components get too hot. 

I hear of people with 45-50C liquid temp and my sphincter slams shut. mine runs low end speeds at 28C and below(10%) and maxes out at 32C 0100%) which is about as high as it would ever go with all pumps and fans at 100%. 

Makes a huge difference when you are thinking in terms of temp delta. If my GPU is good for 12C temp delta 32=12 gives me a max CPU of 44C. Run it at 45C and now maxing out at 57C and well past the first step thermal throttle which isn't much better than air. 

I dont hit throttle on anything. 

So IMO good quality flow METER (not indicator) and liquid temp monitoring is a must unless running 20 fans and 3 pumps at max RPMs 24x7 and not being able to detect changes is OK with you, its not with me LOL, If I can hear the rig over average game play or workloads with headphones on a moderate level there's a problem. 

Got shipping label created but no movement within USPS at this point. Not uncommon, Sometimes I get nothing until out for delivery. Already have plenty of parts, tubing and fitting laying around for the necessary loop changes.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Lets just all be clear as this has come up before. There is a distinct difference between a flow indicator being a clear hamster wheel that is purely aesthetic and never moves correctly and a flow meter which is an actual precision instrument the puts out a signal to measure actual flow rate.
> 
> I use the latter to feed back to my aquaero and I use a liquid temps sensor as well. These two allow me to control PWM D5 pump speeds and PWM fan speeds with a hysterics you just cant get from ANY mobo or other controller. You can't use CPU temps as a reference unless you like hearing fans ramping quickly all the time.
> 
> Mine is off of 100% liquid temp control which is what the pumps and fans are cooling. Takes awhile for 2 liters of liquid to heat up as well as cool down.
> 
> Nothing usually hits max speed unless Im running a hard bench in a loop and that take some time with a very slow ramp.
> 
> Ive tried everything else under the sun. Using a mobo you have high and low temps on liquid set so far apart it lets components get too hot.
> 
> I hear of people with 45-50C liquid temp and my sphincter slams shut. mine runs low end speeds at 28C and below(10%) and maxes out at 32C 0100%) which is about as high as it would ever go with all pumps and fans at 100%. Makes a huge difference when you are thinking in terms of temp delta.
> 
> If my GPU is good for 12C temp delta 32=12 gives me a max CPU of 44C. Run it at 45C and now maxing out at 57C and well past the first step thermal throttle which isn't much better than air. I dont hit throttle on anything.
> 
> So IMO good quality flow METER (not indicator) and liquid temp monitoring is a must unless running 20 fans and 3 pumps at max RPMs 24x7 and not being able to detect changes is OK with you, its not with me LOL, If I can hear the rig over average game play or workloads with headphones on a moderate level there's a problem.
> 
> Got shipping label created but no movement within USPS at this point. Not uncommon, Sometimes I get nothing until out for delivery. Already have plenty of parts, tubing and fitting laying around for the necessary loop changes.


Hi,
A wall of text is always painful to follow please use the return key after a period to start a new sentence


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> A wall of text is always painful to follow please use the return key after a period to start a new sentence


Then it would be a few pages. I know Im verbose as hell but I also try not to leave it taking 10 posts back and forth, get it all answered fir time around.



EDITED ORIGINAL POST FOR THE DYSLEXIC FOLKS FROM SAXET


----------



## BleedOutCold

Optimus WC said:


> VERTICAL GPU: what are you imagining exactly? Inlet on the right, not the left?


Just so - like a lot of people, I've got a standard mobo orientation case with the pumps on the right side of the main chamber. Thus, a vertical mounted GPU has the inlet on the far side from my pumps; running in the front left and out the back right is how it is now. For cleaner/easier plumbing, it'd be better to run both on the back of the terminal, into the right side of the block and out the left, without sacrificing optimal flow direction. Ports on the back of the terminal would be great, obviously.


----------



## Optimus WC

Answers:

-THERMAL PADS V PASTE: There are a couple reasons why we aren't going with the paste-on-ram style. For us, the priority needs to be GPU die contact above all else. By trying to make perfect contact on both die and the huge ram footprint, it makes perfecting contact much harder, if not impossible. Really, the die is where the magic happens. And RAM OC isn't nearly as sensitive/responsive to heat. So putting paste on RAM would only benefit in the most insane ram OC scenarios, which even on LN show really small gains. 

And then, it's not worth the risk for PCB being slightly funky or whatever, no board is perfect. thus, causing an issue with contact. Going with .5mm Fuji is, in our opinion, the best performance and usability. Haven't seen any reviews/benchmarks of the paste-on-ram method, though haven't looked super hard. Of course, if paste really had a huge gain, we'd change it up .

It's also worth mention the vrm is more important -- the more power draw, the cooler, the better. So our plate is really tailored for improved power delivery, so cranking bios over 500w into the 2080Ti, you'll see noticeable mhz benefits.

-TOP TERMINAL: Ah, I get what you're saying. And that makes sense, for sure. The issue is the NVLINK is so close to the GPU die. We'd have to do some funky rework of the entire block in order to put the outlet to the left of the inlet. It's all possible, it's just not the cleanest performance-first design.


----------



## Zurv

I can't wait put the blocks in my systems 

(hrmm... i'm wondering if i should redo my LM in my delied 7980xe .... argh.. come on intel ship more 10980xe CPUs!!)


----------



## Glerox

Anyone has pictures of the TR3 Absolute block with the silver finish? (only satin black on the website).

This block looks like a BEAST.


----------



## Optimus WC

Glerox said:


> Anyone has pictures of the TR3 Absolute block with the silver finish? (only satin black on the website).
> 
> This block looks like a BEAST.


No one should have a pic yet  It's not released, though looking like end of next week for first blocks to ship. The colors for the TR blocks are the same satin silver and black as our other products. As soon as the block is done, we'll be posting pics here and on our twitter: https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC


----------



## JustinThyme

Well looks like a day later than expected. ordered Friday, label created Monday (evidently after mail run), left for post office today so Thursday pending arrival. Have a long Job at a a hedgefund datacenter Friday and a 12 hour thing or more at a black rock faciltiy on Monday so probably no updates until next week. Shame as all I had this week was a short job Monday then a little paper work Today and tomorrow. Could have been posting up results on Sunday instead of starting tear down then.


----------



## Glerox

Optimus WC said:


> No one should have a pic yet  It's not released, though looking like end of next week for first blocks to ship. The colors for the TR blocks are the same satin silver and black as our other products. As soon as the block is done, we'll be posting pics here and on our twitter: https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC


thanks!


----------



## skupples

i'd love to see a port into the butt of the card, and a single port out the side. Instead of both ports being on the butt, or both ports being on the side.


----------



## BigHilo

Optimus WC said:


> Answers:
> 
> [...] Haven't seen any reviews/benchmarks of the paste-on-ram method, though haven't looked super hard. Of course, if paste really had a huge gain, we'd change it up .
> 
> [...]


- nine RTX 2080 Ti blocks tested on 380 watts, 30 mins gaming loop of The Witcher 3, UHD
- written reviews are shorter than the corresponding YouTube videos and unfortunately only in German
- thermal images for each block are the most interesting IMHO



Aqua Computer Kryographics Next (with paste on RAM):
https://www.igorslab.de/aqua-comput...nzug-fuer-die-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-igorslab/2/

EKWB Vector:
https://www.igorslab.de/ek-waterblo...ung-und-ein-showdown-bei-380-watt-igorslab/2/


Phanteks Glacier:
https://www.igorslab.de/phanteks-gl...lung-und-ein-treffen-bei-380-watt-igorslab/2/

Watercool Heatkiller:
https://www.igorslab.de/watercool-h...-loop-wasserkuehlung-bei-380-watt-igorslab/2/

Alphacool GPX-N Plexi Light M02:
https://www.igorslab.de/alphacool-e...d-rtx-2070-im-380-watt-haertetest-igorslab/2/

Alphacool GPX-N M02:
https://www.igorslab.de/alphacool-g...ckplate-fuer-die-rtx-2080-ti-2080-und-2070/2/

Rajintek Samos:
https://www.igorslab.de/raijintek-s...ck-als-preisbrecher-mit-passabler-leistung/2/

Corsair Hydro X:
https://www.igorslab.de/corsair-hyd...rtx-2080-ti-mit-380-watt-einstand-gelungen/2/

TechN TN:
https://www.igorslab.de/techn-tn-gp...serblock-100-made-in-germany-exklusiv-test/2/


----------



## shiokarai

I see that designers that went from EKWB to the Corsair after the "split" did a mighty fine job with designing new Corsair blocks  Shame that EK is only reusing/reiterating old designs ad infinitum nowadays, it's starting to show on the performance numbers, quite striking difference.

btw, like seen above, thermal paste on the memory makes sense - if you do it correctly.


----------



## ciarlatano

shiokarai said:


> I see that designers that went from EKWB to the Corsair after the "split" did a mighty fine job with designing new Corsair blocks  Shame that EK is only reusing/reiterating old designs ad infinitum nowadays, it's starting to show on the performance numbers, quite striking difference.
> 
> btw, like seen above, thermal paste on the memory makes sense - if you do it correctly.


What flavor Kool Aid was that?


----------



## skupples

seems like JUST paste would be messy af. I've always put a dot of tim on each side of my fujipoly, as I figured filling .5mm with tim = giant mess.

it would be nice to see a block machined to the tolerance to not need pads, but something tells me imperfections in chip height are why we use pads in the first place.


----------



## toolmaker03

I personally have never been a fan of thermal pads, I have always been the type to replace them with paste. I would also agree that chip tolerances are not equal, even across a single card. I am the type to use feeler gages, to see how much paste I will need to bridge the gap, between the water block, and chips.


----------



## skupples

seems like you'd need to use REALLY thick stuff then.


----------



## toolmaker03

skupples said:


> seems like you'd need to use REALLY thick stuff then.



I like AS5 seems to work fine under normal conditions. 


not so great for extreme cooling, as it dries out when it gets below 0C.


----------



## JustinThyme

ciarlatano said:


> What flavor Kool Aid was that?


The get off the ugly EK badge and wake the eff up Kool aid. Ive been saying it for awhile that they have become complacent and slipping to the back of the pack. They are barely comparable with the Phanteks that us actually keeping VRMs cooler. All these tests were done without passive backplats on those that accept in and no active backplate on the Kryograhics card.


----------



## skupples

at least everyone knows to cool VRMs these days (looking at you Swiftech!)


----------



## toolmaker03

skupples said:


> at least everyone knows to cool VRMs these days (looking at you Swiftech!)



well I do like the new mono block system some companies are making today. long before they existed I would just get the different lengths of koolance VRM coolers and thermal epoxy them to the motherboard. I would do the same thing with the south bridge chipset, just get a universal water block roughly the same size and thermal epoxy that block to the motherboard. these specifically made water blocks have never been a necessity, I have always considered them to be a luxury item.


----------



## Optimus WC

For the paste-on-pads-on-ram method, good results for those that want to go that direction. Our blocks are made with absolutely insane precision, but we can't compensate for wonky chips 

And we'll be preinstalling Fuji pads on the block, so all you need to do is spatula paste on the die. We're looking at including Kingpin paste in the future, it tastes like blueberries. 

About Corsair, their performance is better on the die because they're using a much higher surface area fin design from the Asetek coolers (like their CPU blocks). Surface area matters. However, the injection molding process leaves MUCH to be desired for precision manufacturing and overall quality. Check out the videos of their gpu blocks and the flow path, you'll see liquid immediately go over the separators. Injection molding is far cheaper than CNC, especially at mass volumes. To do injection molding, you need to CNC a super precise master mold. We basically make every block a master mold (not really but you get the idea)


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> at least everyone knows to cool VRMs these days (looking at you Swiftech!)


Well.....except the CLC on a GPU crowd....they swear VRMs don't need to be cooled. 



JustinThyme said:


> The get off the ugly EK badge and wake the eff up Kool aid. Ive been saying it for awhile that they have become complacent and slipping to the back of the pack. They are barely comparable with the Phanteks that us actually keeping VRMs cooler. All these tests were done without passive backplats on those that accept in and no active backplate on the Kryograhics card.


That flavor is a huge seller! The favorite of many here.


----------



## Optimus WC

Speaking of GPUs, any thoughts on a universal GPU? What would be ideal -- just die? Die and universal RAM option? Die with separate ram blocks and separate vrm blocks? Passive VRM with active GPU and RAM?


----------



## skupples

ciarlatano said:


> Well.....except the CLC on a GPU crowd....they swear VRMs don't need to be cooled.
> 
> 
> 
> That flavor is a huge seller! The favorite of many here.


oi vey

designed to handle surface of the sun temps =/= should run @ surface of the sun temps.  


as to universals... gonna have to think about that. I tried turning an old X79 VRM block into a GPU VRM block, but the step made it non-functional.

first thought - die chip includes memory cooling, with optional add-on low profile VRM cooler.


----------



## tistou77

@Optimus WC

Is distribution in Europe planned? If yes, when ?
Shipping costs are quite expensive for delivery in Europe


----------



## Optimus WC

tistou77 said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Is distribution in Europe planned? If yes, when ?
> Shipping costs are quite expensive for delivery in Europe


Yes! We're working on it right now, hopefully will have details worked out and blocks shipped to EU for distribution this month


----------



## toolmaker03

Optimus WC said:


> Speaking of GPUs, any thoughts on a universal GPU? What would be ideal -- just die? Die and universal RAM option? Die with separate ram blocks and separate vrm blocks? Passive VRM with active GPU and RAM?



well if they continue with todays design on the video cards, making a universal water block for the GPU and ram coverage should be simple. with some separate universal VRM water blocks made to different lengths, to fit most setups on the different types of cards. much the same way koolance went with their universal VRM motherboard blocks.


you could also build custom water blocks for each card, but I see this being a gamble on weather you could sell enough to cover the ones that do not sell.


I noticed that corsair created a universal water block for the GPU and a air cooler made for specific cards, that can be attached to that block. not the worst approach, but without great air cooling in the case, I could see the VRM's on the card getting hot.


----------



## tistou77

Optimus WC said:


> Yes! We're working on it right now, hopefully will have details worked out and blocks shipped to EU for distribution this month


Ok, very good, thanks :thumb:
Do you already have distributors and countries or not yet ?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Probably casekings.


----------



## Optimus WC

tistou77 said:


> Ok, very good, thanks :thumb:
> Do you already have distributors and countries or not yet ?


We don't have the details worked out, but we're talking with the right people.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Amazon.de/ .uk/....


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Amazon.de/ .uk/....


We're not on amazon yet. Soon, but we want to keep it clean, no insane marketplace selling that confuses everyone


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
EU there seems to be a fairly limited selling places 
CaseKing is one fairly common one and amazon is the other.


----------



## tistou77

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Probably casekings.





Optimus WC said:


> We don't have the details worked out, but we're talking with the right people.


Ok thanks 

Aquatuning is a good store too


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah forgot about aquatuning


----------



## tistou77

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah forgot about aquatuning


:thumb:


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I bought a alphacool reservoir/ base combo D5 vario pump from them a while back.


----------



## JustinThyme

ciarlatano said:


> Well.....except the CLC on a GPU crowd....they swear VRMs don't need to be cooled.
> 
> 
> 
> That flavor is a huge seller! The favorite of many here.


People tend to deny change is often good. 10 years ago they were pioneering the industry above other companies that already existed like Danger Den that is all but gone now because they became complacent. After my last few fails with EK I’ll never run one again. When I bought Phanteks, a new comer to the WK business and it performed as well in some aspects and better in others. That’s all that was needed for me to slam that door shut and never look back. EK has lost its grip in the market and if they don’t wake up they will find themselves going the way of danger den and several others that are now gone.


----------



## ciarlatano

JustinThyme said:


> People tend to deny change is often good. 10 years ago they were pioneering the industry above other companies that already existed like Danger Den that is all but gone now because they became complacent. After my last few fails with EK I’ll never run one again. When I bought Phanteks, a new comer to the WK business and it performed as well in some aspects and better in others. That’s all that was needed for me to slam that door shut and never look back. EK has lost its grip in the market and if they don’t wake up they will find themselves going the way of danger den and several others that are now gone.


Funny you say that.... I had an EK block for my 1080, but was unhappy with the decline in quality. I received a Phanteks Glacier to review....and the EK never saw light of day again. The Phanteks had essentially identical performance, lower restriction and much nicer build quality. That said, my expectations for the Phanteks were likely higher than yours. Though they were new to WC, I knew that they went into it with a mentality of wanting to make the best product on the market, and that they had the right people to be competitive.

I have yet to use an Optimus block, but it is very evident that they are in the same mindset, but even more so from a "performance first" aspect. Optimus has ticked every box for doing things the right way.


----------



## shiokarai

skupples said:


> seems like JUST paste would be messy af. I've always put a dot of tim on each side of my fujipoly, as I figured filling .5mm with tim = giant mess.
> 
> it would be nice to see a block machined to the tolerance to not need pads, but something tells me imperfections in chip height are why we use pads in the first place.


I'm using the kryographics block on my rtx 2080 ti and it's not messy at all, i'd say it's rather clean and elegant solution, the block is machined really really good, the precision of machining is top notch, you just go with included thermal grizzly kryonaut and it's ok. Some more work with applying thermal paste vs just thermal pads, but doable.


----------



## shiokarai

nevermind


----------



## ThrashZone

shiokarai said:


> I'm using the kryographics block on my rtx 2080 ti and it's not messy at all, i'd say it's rather clean and elegant solution, the block is machined really really good, the precision of machining is top notch, you just go with included thermal grizzly kryonaut and it's ok. Some more work with applying thermal paste vs just thermal pads, but doable.


Hi,
You add big goobers of thermal paste to the gpu's vrm's man that's 1.50mm it would take 2 tubes 

Just memory alone would be a freaking mess 

Not sure what the big deal is I like arctic thermal pads fiji is a total waste one time application disassemble and have to replace because all cracked like glass.


----------



## Section31

I will be doing some 3950X testing now that i managed to get my hands on it. Just waiting for Optimus to release its 12mm Hard Tube Fittings so i can do the swap in one shot.


----------



## shiokarai

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You add big goobers of thermal paste to the gpu's vrm's man that's 1.50mm it would take 2 tubes
> 
> Just memory alone would be a freaking mess
> 
> Not sure what the big deal is I like arctic thermal pads fiji is a total waste one time application disassemble and have to replace because all cracked like glass.


well, it works and it's not messy what else can I tell  why would I add "big goobers" of a kryonaut paste? ever worked with kryonaut paste? it's not the slime-y liquid-like typical paste, you have to make a thin film on the whole surface (optimally).


----------



## tistou77

@Optimus WC

I advertised you on French forums (Watercooling) 
There should be new orders


----------



## ThrashZone

shiokarai said:


> well, it works and it's not messy what else can I tell  why would I add "big goobers" of a kryonaut paste? ever worked with kryonaut paste? it's not the slime-y liquid-like typical paste, you have to make a thin film on the whole surface (optimally).


Hi,
A gpu's vrm's are the longest distance from the water block or air cooler for that matter estimated 1.50mm
Memory pads are 0.5mm I believe chip is always thermal paste.

So if the thermal pad or in your case thermal paste doesn't make contact with vrm and cooler what cools the vrm's hopes and dreams ?


----------



## Optimus WC

tistou77 said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> I advertised you on French forums (Watercooling)
> There should be new orders


Haha that's awesome!! Thank you so much!


----------



## DaaQ

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> A gpu's vrm's are the longest distance from the water block or air cooler for that matter estimated 1.50mm
> Memory pads are 0.5mm I believe chip is always thermal paste.
> 
> So if the thermal pad or in your case thermal paste doesn't make contact with vrm and cooler what cools the vrm's hopes and dreams ?



Aquacomputer recommended thermal paste for my GTX780 in their documentation that came with the block back then. I believe their tolerances are quite close, but you would have to confer with Shoggy on that one.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Haha that's awesome!! Thank you so much!


Hi,
Yeah I've dropped a few links and results on tenforums and asus rog funny rog on a ek section 
https://rog.asus.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?127-ROG-Discussion
Hardware thread oc section and show your rig here
https://www.tenforums.com/


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah I've dropped a few links and results on tenforums and asus rog funny rog on a ek section
> https://rog.asus.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?127-ROG-Discussion
> Hardware thread oc section and show your rig here
> https://www.tenforums.com/


Lol awesome! Really appreciate ya spreading the word!!


----------



## shiokarai

ThrashZone said:


> shiokarai said:
> 
> 
> 
> well, it works and it's not messy what else can I tell 🙂 why would I add "big goobers" of a kryonaut paste? ever worked with kryonaut paste? it's not the slime-y liquid-like typical paste, you have to make a thin film on the whole surface (optimally).
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> A gpu's vrm's are the longest distance from the water block or air cooler for that matter estimated 1.50mm
> Memory pads are 0.5mm I believe chip is always thermal paste.
> 
> So if the thermal pad or in your case thermal paste doesn't make contact with vrm and cooler what cools the vrm's hopes and dreams ?
Click to expand...

Memory and chip is thermal paste, the rest are fujipoly thermal pads... they don’t use thermal paste for everything  this would be messy!


----------



## Pilz

Keith Myers said:


> I am going to install mine as designed. It appears to be the correct orientation for the water flow to go across the CCD dies.


I know your post is a little old but I've been struggling to keep decent temps with my EK Velocity (I also have a Heatkiller IV). How are thermals on the Foundation vs your Silver + Nickel Cuplex Kryos? Those are the top 2 on my list right now.


----------



## ThrashZone

Pilz said:


> I know your post is a little old but I've been struggling to keep decent temps with my EK Velocity (I also have a Heatkiller IV). How are thermals on the Foundation vs your Silver + Nickel Cuplex Kryos? Those are the top 2 on my list right now.


Hi,
I'd expect the velocity to be darn near even with heatkiller 4 pro 
Is that what you've seen by your usage ?

Foundation has been 3c cooler than HK 4 pro on my 9940x depending on which way you rotate the HK 4 pro.

I posted some screen shots a page or two.. back and show an image of how the HK and foundation were rotated for the tests so check them out.

I don't have the other kryos block you're originally referring to though.


----------



## Pilz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I'd expect the velocity to be darn near even with heatkiller 4 pro
> Is that what you've seen by your usage ?
> 
> Foundation has been 3c cooler than HK 4 pro on my 9940x depending on which way you rotate the HK 4 pro.
> 
> I posted some screen shots a page or two.. back and show an image of how the HK and foundation were rotated for the tests so check them out.
> 
> I don't have the other kryos block you're originally referring to though.


Velocity is 4-5C higher than my HKIV. I gave my wife the HKIV sadly for her 3700X + x570 Master so I need a new one for my 3900X + X570 Arous Xtreme since it's the big guy. I've searched this OP a few times but it's such a mess trying to find the correct info. If you have the data please share it again  

I'll post my set up a bit later, I'm at work so it's not exactly ideal to type out the list or find it but I'll try.


Edit: See my signature for pics, it should sum things up.


----------



## ThrashZone

Pilz said:


> Velocity is 4-5C higher than my HKIV. I gave my wife the HKIV sadly for her 3700X + x570 Master so I need a new one for my 3900X + X570 Arous Xtreme since it's the big guy. I've searched this OP a few times but it's such a mess trying to find the correct info. If you have the data please share it again
> 
> I'll post my set up a bit later, I'm at work so it's not exactly ideal to type out the list or find it but I'll try.


Hi,
Yeah the amd optimus pre order is pricey 200.us supposed to be the bad boy on the block 
https://optimuspc.com/products/absolute-cpu-block-threadripper-3

Or

https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-amd


----------



## skupples

WTB tracking #


----------



## Pilz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah the amd optimus pre order is pricey 200.us supposed to be the bad boy on the block
> https://optimuspc.com/products/absolute-cpu-block-threadripper-3
> 
> Or
> 
> https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-amd


I ordered the AM4 Nickely + Satin Aluminum/Plexi for my 3900X. I'll test it against my EK Velocity which I have no doubt it'll beat. Rad's are from HW Labs in my CPU loop giving the best possible performance paired with a D5 Next


----------



## ThrashZone

Pilz said:


> I ordered the AM4 Nickely + Satin Aluminum/Plexi for my 3900X. I'll test it against my EK Velocity which I have no doubt it'll beat. Rad's are from HW Labs in my CPU loop giving the best possible performance paired with a D5 Next


Hi,
Yeah didn't know the velocity was that much worse than the heatkiller 4 pro thanks for that :thumb:


----------



## acoustic

I love the design of the D5 Pump+Res. The aesthetics are exactly what I'm looking for. No flashy RGB, just pure performance.


----------



## ThrashZone

acoustic said:


> I love the design of the D5 Pump+Res. The aesthetics are exactly what I'm looking for. No flashy RGB, just pure performance.


Hi,
Yep they are supposed to be making a dual pump version base that's what I'm waiting for :thumb:


----------



## Keith Myers

Pilz said:


> I know your post is a little old but I've been struggling to keep decent temps with my EK Velocity (I also have a Heatkiller IV). How are thermals on the Foundation vs your Silver + Nickel Cuplex Kryos? Those are the top 2 on my list right now.


I would say on average between 2 - 5° C. better depending on the workload. My BOINC workload is very variable and works the cpu either harder or easier but on a synthetic workload like Prime95 or y-cruncher it is very consistent.

I had the Silver + PVD Cuplex Kryos block on it before. And before that I had the XSPC Raystorm Pro. I'm convinced the Silver coldplate of the AQ block and the direction of array flow across the dies is what allowed it to consistently beat the Raystorm Pro by 2° C. I think that the speed of heat conduction advantage that silver has over copper is a good portion of the improvement.


----------



## Pilz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah didn't know the velocity was that much worse than the heatkiller 4 pro thanks for that :thumb:


 The difference is noticeable for sure. My 3900X during gaming averages 80W with stock clocks/voltage. At that power draw, I average 60C but will spike to the 70's sometimes with an ambient of ~21C. This is all with the EK Velocity +ThermalGrizzly Kryonaught paste. Those temps are rather high for a 360mm radiator + D5 at ~230 L/H per Aquasuite. Power draw is low so I see no reason other than poor block design for those temps. Meanwhile, my GPU also running an EK block sits around 35-40C with a dual 360mm loop (HW Labs SR2 + EK SE360 I added for fun) with a D5 giving me 270L/H+


----------



## Pilz

Keith Myers said:


> I would say on average between 2 - 5° C. better depending on the workload. My BOINC workload is very variable and works the cpu either harder or easier but on a synthetic workload like Prime95 or y-cruncher it is very consistent.
> 
> I had the Silver + PVD Cuplex Kryos block on it before. And before that I had the XSPC Raystorm Pro. I'm convinced the Silver coldplate of the AQ block and the direction of array flow across the dies is what allowed it to consistently beat the Raystorm Pro by 2° C. I think that the speed of heat conduction advantage that silver has over copper is a good portion of the improvement.


Thank you for the info! Did you test it against the Optimus yet? I have no problem picking up the AC Cuplex in silver if it's the better block. I ordered my Optimus today and will put it to the test once it arrives next week. I changed my EK Velocity to be mounted 'Goofy' since temps seem to be better in that orientation

Edit: Did you adjust the AC block with their Vario screws to ensure the best contact?


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey Pilz,

Here's a rough ongoing list of our AMD user reviews:

_RYZEN 3950x (16 core) REVIEWS:

"Holy cow, finished installing the block and got 7C drop from the Phanteks under load on the 3950X, really happy with it, AMAZING Block" Source

"I did drop about 5-6c with this block compared to both the EK Velocity and the heatkiller pro IV, so GREAT BLOCK HERE..." Source

"As a guess, from the temps I am seeing now, I will achieve the 5-6° that Optimus saysthey see in their tests." Source

"...it appears that when compared to my EisBlock, the Optimus is about 5c Cooler...I have to say this block is definitely a win! 10 Out of 10, Would Recommend!" (3950x and 3900x) Source

"...So, my take away from these temps is this new block probably lowers the temps by about 4 C..." Source

3900x REVIEWS:

"...without a DOUBT, the Optimus Block Outperforms Every AM4 Block I currently have... in Every Single Test I have run, the Optimus Outperforms the Eisblock by between 4 and 6c. The More Amps I push the chip, the bigger Difference I can measure..." Source

"The upgrade is 3-4degrees it appears...I did notice the flow rate for the block was much better than the heatkiller, it went up by 0.9-1 L/min." Source

"...it's stellar. The full coverage of the chiplets on the Ryzen 3900X definitely makes a difference vs corsair xc7 and ekwb velocity (which were the roughly the same performance)...I would say I see a ~3-5c (sometimes even higher) difference in all workloads as well as idle..." Source

MORE:

"The Optimus does out perform the Heatkiller on 3700x by about 4 degrees.
Optimus: 58-61
Heatkiller: 63-65
Noctua U12A: 66-70"
Source_


Links didn't copy but you can see more here: https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-amd


----------



## Keith Myers

Pilz said:


> Thank you for the info! Did you test it against the Optimus yet? I have no problem picking up the AC Cuplex in silver if it's the better block. I ordered my Optimus today and will put it to the test once it arrives next week. I changed my EK Velocity to be mounted 'Goofy' since temps seem to be better in that orientation
> 
> Edit: Did you adjust the AC block with their Vario screws to ensure the best contact?


Yes, I did test with the Silver/PVD Cuplex Kryos Next block. That was what was on it before the Foundation block. The Foundation block is 2 - 5 ° better in average Tdie temps than the AQ block.
Mine was the Next block and not the Vario. Just the basic block without the Vario or the temp display.


----------



## Despotes

Is there customer service at Optimus? I ordered the Foundation, sent an email concerning it's status, but I get crickets.


----------



## acoustic

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep they are supposed to be making a dual pump version base that's what I'm waiting for :thumb:


Would a single D5 pump be strong enough for a triple rad setup in a Lian Li O11 XL or Phantek 719?


----------



## ThrashZone

acoustic said:


> Would a single D5 pump be strong enough for a triple rad setup in a Lian Li O11 XL or Phantek 719?


Hi,
Most people would want two d5's.
Heck I have two d5's on two 280gtx rads


----------



## Optimus WC

Despotes said:


> Is there customer service at Optimus? I ordered the Foundation, sent an email concerning it's status, but I get crickets.


Hey there, responded to your DM. We were hoping to get your block out today, but our Foundation AMD has been popular so it should take a few extra days until they can ship. Sorry for the delay!


----------



## acoustic

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Most people would want two d5's.
> Heck I have two d5's on two 280gtx rads


Hopefully this dual pump variant of their pump/res combo will be available by September. I'm really loving the look and quality of these parts from Optimus.


----------



## skupples

:Snorkle:


----------



## Schmuckley

EK makes good waterblocks.

If I'm gonna watercool, I'm using a bong, though. It works, and how!

The water never heats up, most often stays sub-ambient. There are issues..scale..corrosion check/cleaning every 6 mos.

I use Twinkle. 

Since I put a filter on, the scale is much better. Green copper Lime scale is not pretty.

Tell ya what, I will not buy another XSPC waterblock. 3x (I have to use bleach) the water eroded a pinhole in the block and ruined cpu/mobo.

It really happened 5x, but twice I saved them. The mil on the copper plate is simply just too thin.

Hmm, wonder if I still have that universal EK GPU block?


----------



## skupples

EK used to make good waterblocks. Now they make mediocre ones. hopefully that changes with their next overhaul.


----------



## JustinThyme

Block arrived today Took a little longer than expected but oh well. 
Initial presentation is OK. I am going to flush it, already cleaned the exterior. I can't speak for the interior but the exterior was not at all clean and there was some black gunk on the edge of the cold plate, not excatly a warm fuzzy out of the gate. That all cleaned up with 99% denatured alcohol. Attention to details goes a long way in my book. 
Not so sure Im all that confident in the hardware even though it did come with springs that were not shown online I may still use the HK hardware to mount it as its just more robust. 

Ill put some pics up later, plenty of time as the late arrival will have me behind on getting it installed. Busy Saturday and just got booked every day next week at a Digital Realty site. 

Its a fairly chunky bit of metal, not quite as heavy as expected but performance is what matters most. The HK IV pro I believe actually has a bit more weight. Ill find all that out when I pull it and weigh each of them nekked. 

Overall first impression was stained only by it not being pristine and clean. Cold plate under film looks good though. Ill have shots of both side by side once the HK IV is pulled and TIM cleaned.

Ill be going back with my go to thermal grizzly kryonaut. Yes, its thick, better for me since Im not pulling the board. If I had zero doubts would probably go ahead and pull the board and use conductonaut. While it doesnt get much better at thermal capacity its extremely easy to botch and impossible on a board thats vertical. Once its on there, its on there and takes a lot of time to remove and redo, not a wipe off clean up. 

Depending on how my work day goes tomorrow may start with draining loop and begin rework on what I know Im doing anyhow and add the 3 extra SSDs I bought and rework rads. 

Currently 480 on top, 480 0n bottom and 360 in front. May end up with 480 on top, 360 on bottom, 280 mid and fans in front or any combination there of. May even just put all fans in the top and the 480 in the front. 

Everything hinges on whether I leave my Bitspower dual D5 where it is. Its either there or relocated to bottom with a 360 instead of a 480. Too many ideas going at once ATM. In the least there is a Phanteks D140 distro going in the back and a crossflow 480, may go on top or bottom Depending on whether or not I add the 280 back in and remove the front 360. 

Im just glad Im not trying to cram all this in an evolv shift x. Even though the case is huge having 5 Samsung 1TB evos and a 905P, might even try to shoewhorn the pair of 900P AICs I have back in but that will be a PITA with vertical GPUs, would have to use another type of mount or just take them off the mount and use long PCIE extensions and work them to the back with industrial Velcro. Will be interesting to say the least.


----------



## JustinThyme

Schmuckley said:


> EK makes good waterblocks.
> 
> If I'm gonna watercool, I'm using a bong, though. It works, and how!
> 
> The water never heats up, most often stays sub-ambient. There are issues..scale..corrosion check/cleaning every 6 mos.
> 
> I use Twinkle.
> 
> Since I put a filter on, the scale is much better. Green copper Lime scale is not pretty.
> 
> Tell ya what, I will not buy another XSPC waterblock. 3x (I have to use bleach) the water eroded a pinhole in the block and ruined cpu/mobo.
> 
> It really happened 5x, but twice I saved them. The mil on the copper plate is simply just too thin.
> 
> Hmm, wonder if I still have that universal EK GPU block?


Im going to ditto on the slipping of EK. Not writing them off as there is still a demand and so long as thats there they will keep their doors open. Thing is though the market is growing with more competition which is a good thing. Id say 5 years ago they were at or near top heap, not so much anymore. Honestly when I waited an eternity for the 2080Ti Strix blocks that were released a few months behind what was promised I was disappointed in the aesthetics. They said the hold up was the back plate but the rest of it IMO is one UGLY card.



Im not so much for EK, they mess up the percolation of the bong water. 

Even the Phanteks who is new perfromed about the same without a back plate and IMO looks a lot better. Thats whats in there now but changing out to HK. I really like the aquacumputer blocks but they dont go outside of FE or Titans and they are always top heap with the active backplate.


----------



## Schmuckley

JustinThyme said:


> Im going to ditto on the slipping of EK. Not writing them off as there is still a demand and so long as thats there they will keep their doors open. Thing is though the market is growing with more competition which is a good thing. Id say 5 years ago they were at or near top heap, not so much anymore. Honestly when I waited an eternity for the 2080Ti Strix blocks that were released a few months behind what was promised I was disappointed in the aesthetics. They said the hold up was the back plate but the rest of it IMO is one UGLY card.
> 
> 
> 
> Im not so much for EK, they mess up the percolation of the bong water.
> 
> Even the Phanteks who is new perfromed about the same without a back plate and IMO looks a lot better. Thats whats in there now but changing out to HK. I really like the aquacumputer blocks but they dont go outside of FE or Titans and they are always top heap with the active backplate.


So who makes a good anodized thick-plate waterblock now?


----------



## JustinThyme

Schmuckley said:


> So who makes a good anodized thick-plate waterblock now?


Who Knows, Ive not had issue with my HK IV but Thrash came up in here twisting my arm and forced me to drop $200 on an Optimus Signature V2. Ill let you know how it works out! LOL

EK just burned my buns with monoblocks and a few seeeping GPU blocks. Never did like the reservoirs in the first place. Im just saying they need to step up their game before they fall too far behind.


----------



## Pilz

Optimus WC said:


> Hey Pilz,
> 
> Here's a rough ongoing list of our AMD user reviews:
> 
> _RYZEN 3950x (16 core) REVIEWS:
> 
> "Holy cow, finished installing the block and got 7C drop from the Phanteks under load on the 3950X, really happy with it, AMAZING Block" Source
> 
> "I did drop about 5-6c with this block compared to both the EK Velocity and the heatkiller pro IV, so GREAT BLOCK HERE..." Source
> 
> "As a guess, from the temps I am seeing now, I will achieve the 5-6Â° that Optimus saysthey see in their tests." Source
> 
> "...it appears that when compared to my EisBlock, the Optimus is about 5c Cooler...I have to say this block is definitely a win! 10 Out of 10, Would Recommend!" (3950x and 3900x) Source
> 
> "...So, my take away from these temps is this new block probably lowers the temps by about 4 C..." Source
> 
> 3900x REVIEWS:
> 
> "...without a DOUBT, the Optimus Block Outperforms Every AM4 Block I currently have... in Every Single Test I have run, the Optimus Outperforms the Eisblock by between 4 and 6c. The More Amps I push the chip, the bigger Difference I can measure..." Source
> 
> "The upgrade is 3-4degrees it appears...I did notice the flow rate for the block was much better than the heatkiller, it went up by 0.9-1 L/min." Source
> 
> "...it's stellar. The full coverage of the chiplets on the Ryzen 3900X definitely makes a difference vs corsair xc7 and ekwb velocity (which were the roughly the same performance)...I would say I see a ~3-5c (sometimes even higher) difference in all workloads as well as idle..." Source
> 
> MORE:
> 
> "The Optimus does out perform the Heatkiller on 3700x by about 4 degrees.
> Optimus: 58-61
> Heatkiller: 63-65
> Noctua U12A: 66-70"
> Source_
> 
> 
> Links didn't copy but you can see more here: https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-amd


Thank you, I prefer real reviews by sites that actually test by some sort of scientific method. Steve at GN does an excellent job conducting comparisons of everything for example. 

I can test the 3 of mine at a fixed ambient temp (not sure if my wife will be happy when I take the HK IV out of her PC so I might hold off on that one for now). 

I haven't seen any trusted places do a proper review and compare the top 2 against this. Those are the Watercool Heatkiller IV and Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos Next w/Vision. 
I've build dozens of PCs over the years so time will tell with this block. I run Mayhem's Pastel coolant which has never caused ant issues for me



Keith Myers said:


> Pilz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the info! Did you test it against the Optimus yet? I have no problem picking up the AC Cuplex in silver if it's the better block. I ordered my Optimus today and will put it to the test once it arrives next week. I changed my EK Velocity to be mounted 'Goofy' since temps seem to be better in that orientation
> 
> Edit: Did you adjust the AC block with their Vario screws to ensure the best contact?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I did test with the Silver/PVD Cuplex Kryos Next block. That was what was on it before the Foundation block. The Foundation block is 2 - 5 Â° better in average Tdie temps than the AQ block.
> Mine was the Next block and not the Vario. Just the basic block without the Vario or the temp display.
Click to expand...


The Vario would likely perform a bit better from what I've seen. I have a full AC set up (pumps, sensors, flow meters, controller etc) so getting one with Vision would be my plan if the Optimus disappoints.


I'm an engineer and very particular with quality of components and how things are presented. EK dropped the ball with their latest series.

I might go AC for the next GPU block I get when Nvidia launches their new cards. Having flow rate data and temp sensors in the block is pretty cool and very useful for me. 




skupples said:


> EK used to make good waterblocks. Now they make mediocre ones. hopefully that changes with their next overhaul.


----------



## Keith Myers

Give Optimus a break. You can't expect a newcomer to the market to have review samples in the hands of web tech review sites on first day of product announcement or availability. I would like to see the Foundation block reviewed by water cooling review sites like Igor's Lab and ExtremeRigs. They seem to do a really thorough review with good test setups and writeups. I believe they stated they would get review samples out to the reviewers as soon as they got caught up with the initial demand.


----------



## Schmuckley

JustinThyme said:


> Who Knows, Ive not had issue with my HK IV but Thrash came up in here twisting my arm and forced me to drop $200 on an Optimus Signature V2. Ill let you know how it works out! LOL
> 
> EK just burned my buns with monoblocks and a few seeeping GPU blocks. Never did like the reservoirs in the first place. Im just saying they need to step up their game before they fall too far behind.


Seeping is no bueno!


----------



## Pilz

Keith Myers said:


> Give Optimus a break. You can't expect a newcomer to the market to have review samples in the hands of web tech review sites on first day of product announcement or availability. I would like to see the Foundation block reviewed by water cooling review sites like Igor's Lab and ExtremeRigs. They seem to do a really thorough review with good test setups and writeups. I believe they stated they would get review samples out to the reviewers as soon as they got caught up with the initial demand.



Yes and some of those sites buy things they review in those cases. I'd even pay for one and send it to GN if they'd test it. 

Some of those sites bu


----------



## Pilz

JustinThyme said:


> Schmuckley said:
> 
> 
> 
> So who makes a good anodized thick-plate waterblock now?
> 
> 
> 
> Who Knows, Ive not had issue with my HK IV but Thrash came up in here twisting my arm and forced me to drop $200 on an Optimus Signature V2. Ill let you know how it works out! LOL
> 
> EK just burned my buns with monoblocks and a few seeeping GPU blocks. Never did like the reservoirs in the first place. Im just saying they need to step up their game before they fall too far behind.
Click to expand...

My wife has their distroplate in her 011, so far it's been great. Their stuff is really hit or miss lately. I used to be a big fan but they're making it hard. I own 5-6 blocks, D5 pumps, reservoirs, fans, radiators, fittings etc I hope they come back to their former Glory


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, responded to your DM. We were hoping to get your block out today, but our Foundation AMD has been popular so it should take a few extra days until they can ship. Sorry for the delay!


Hi,
Sold 
https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?116002-Water-block-for-the-R6E-Omega


----------



## Schmuckley

There used to be a site that rated all the waterblocks in order..


----------



## Optimus WC

We'll definitely be going for reviews in the near future! 110% of our day is spent making blocks. And I think our preorder guys would kill us if we did anything before releasing the GPUs and Threadripper blocks 

Also, waterblocks are a really tricky area for reviewers. In many ways, I think the guys on this forum provide the best real-world testing. This thread has tons of experienced people who spent more time testing the block than most reviewers could justify (they need to crank out content daily to pay the bills). 

For pro reviewers, very few people/places are truly set up to test and remove the variables over months/years. Waterblocks are far trickier than, say, fans or CPUs or anything else. "Ambient" is really hit or miss. Regulating water temp and air temp is the best way to do it, which is what we do. 

Like the guys in this thread found out, orientation can change +/-3c, tightening pressure is also +/-3c. Lapped IHS? Different results. TIM spread? Same. 

And for a reviewer, once a new CPU comes out, you need to do everything again to get a real sense of performance. Like our block is tailored for the Ryzen 3000+ chips, but most blocks aren't. So gotta throw out all the Ryzen 2000 reviews in order to be relevant. Super time consuming. 

Also, I love GN Steve's reviews, but I don't believe he does solo waterblocks. His case reviews are really comprehensive, though he only tests with the stock fans that come with the case, which is a scenario that few people would actually use. So it's hard to know the real performance for a case loaded with rads and fans. That's why user builders are more helpful, imo. 

Anyway, all that said, we'll definitely be sending products far and wide when we have time to do so. And a big part of our mission isn't just performance, but also quality and reliability. Gotta back up that 10 year warranty. Maybe we should do demos for reviewers to try and crack our acrylic blocks 




ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Sold
> https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?116002-Water-block-for-the-R6E-Omega


Haha, so awesome!! That's great


----------



## skupples

kill? no. 

i bit excited tho, finally got this giant desk up & running. time to get to work.


----------



## Keith Myers

> Also, waterblocks are a really tricky area for reviewers. In many ways, I think the guys on this forum provide the best real-world testing. This thread has tons of experienced people who spent more time testing the block than most reviewers could justify (they need to crank out content daily to pay the bills).


This is the salient point. TechTubers just don't have the time to test everything that is on the market. They are constantly bombarded for test reviews and they have to justify the time spent on reviewing to gather the most views on YT that pays their bills.

That is why you need to get a review from a reviewer that has the time for multiple mounts of the block over and over again to average the difference in paste spread, mounting pressure and test setup. Then they need to control all the ambient temps and system pressures and flow rates to make the test setup exactly the same for each block. Look at the past reviews by Kyle Bennett at HardOCP,Thermalbench.com or ExtremeRigs for example.
https://www.xtremerigs.net/categories/reviews/water-cooling/cpu-blocks/
http://thermalbench.com/category/cpu-waterblocks/


So while a review on GN would gather many views I don't think he has the lab setup required for testing that this category requires.


----------



## Ashcroft

Its nice to a new brand in the watercooling scene. For too long we only saw the numbers and choice in the market going down.

Having said that. I find some of the claims on the Optimus website a little hard to swallow. 5 and 7 degree drops in temp are very difficult to believe. Having been around for a while and seen some years of progression a drop of 1 or 2C was something to get excited about. 
The huge claims on the site remind me of some of the claims made when delidding first became a thing with people insisting they got 20C drops but when tested in a thorough manner the gains were far more realistic. 

Then there is some of the claims about "most other blocks on the market"

"Other designs on the market use a cut steel jet plate to create pressure. While cheaper to manufacture, the steel jet plates often rust and cause galvanic corrosion when in contact with the fins, causing problems in the loop" ... Really? rust from a stainless steel plate, and often even? That's quite a claim and I can't say I've ever seen that in a block. As far as I'm aware the only reason they use steel plates is to provide some adjustability. They could make it one piece but that might only be a good design for one CPU. Varying the thickness of the jet plate can make the block work better on different CPU's. 

"Additionally, we only CNC our G1/4” ports, never thread tap. Thread tapping is the industry standard because it’s easy and any budget drill press can do it." ... Its the industry standard? None of the big brands do it. They use the same machined ports. Why the effort to make other brands seem like backyard operations? If your products are really that good they'll sell themselves. 

"Flaking, disintegrating nickel is a widespread problem in liquid cooling. After all, nickel PC fittings and blocks prohibit use with plain water, or you void the warranty. Instead, you must use anti-corrosive fluids to protect nickel components. Why? Because the industry standard electroplated (aka electrolytic) nickel is a cosmetic nickel finish that isn't meant to be used in liquid applications. Often called chrome or shiny nickel, electroplated nickel is cost effective and looks good." ... This one I'm admittedly less sure as to what the current state of affairs is but EKWB were using Electroless Nickel years ago and Aquacomputer use PVD Nickel on at least some of their blocks.
Claiming that it voids warranty to use water is definitely not true though from the big player brands even if it is a dumb idea.

Hyperbole is dangerous because while it might impress people now, if the results of real testing don't live up to the hype people will feel lied to. Part of me hopes its all true because it will force the industry forward but the skeptic in me has to temper expectations. We have excellent trusted volunteer testers in the community available like Extremerigs , Thermal Bench etc. Apparently EK has bought some to test so maybe they will make some available.

I wish the company all the best but would suggest toning down the claims til there is real evidence. Even if the performance claims are true, combining it with some half truths and/or misleading claims is a bad look.


----------



## JustinThyme

Pilz said:


> Thank you, I prefer real reviews by sites that actually test by some sort of scientific method. Steve at GN does an excellent job conducting comparisons of everything for example.
> 
> I can test the 3 of mine at a fixed ambient temp (not sure if my wife will be happy when I take the HK IV out of her PC so I might hold off on that one for now).
> 
> I haven't seen any trusted places do a proper review and compare the top 2 against this. Those are the Watercool Heatkiller IV and Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos Next w/Vision.
> I've build dozens of PCs over the years so time will tell with this block. I run Mayhem's Pastel coolant which has never caused ant issues for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Vario would likely perform a bit better from what I've seen. I have a full AC set up (pumps, sensors, flow meters, controller etc) so getting one with Vision would be my plan if the Optimus disappoints.
> 
> 
> I'm an engineer and very particular with quality of components and how things are presented. EK dropped the ball with their latest series.
> 
> I might go AC for the next GPU block I get when Nvidia launches their new cards. Having flow rate data and temp sensors in the block is pretty cool and very useful for me.


To be fair I said almost the exact same thing, just a bit more eloquently and non asinine.

Thrash stuck his neck out and came back with they are at least as good as an HK IV Pro within a marigin of error which means they are better than anything EKWB has. Never met Thrash but weve been busting eachothers balls here and a few other places for a few years now and while I might get an ugly chick to whack his nutz if this doesnt work out I trust him to a degree enough to shell out $200 on a block. 

On another side note Optimus did offer up to send me a Demo Signature V2 to try out. Well my issues is I dont have a test bed, its all hard pipe and has to be changed to meet the ports of their block so I dont do demos. Maybe I should buy a test bed and get back at it with that but other things keep my attention these day, did that better than 20 years on cardboard boxes before they had test beds. 

First folding farm was a pile of old MOBOs sharing PSUs on network boot, no GPUs in a basement closet with an AV vent feeding it. Quit that when they all sat idle awaiting work orders and found that folding is a thesis project getting passed down one class to the next and they really dont give a crap so I dont so it anymore.

ATM Im about to start with the new block and a few other changes then its off to getting ready for spring. I gotta figure out how to tow a 40Ft 5th wheel RV with this......


----------



## GAN77

*Ashcroft*

Great post that sobering up the bitter head)!

In fact, optimus writes a lot on the site, as for unsuspecting children)


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Usually I'd have an issue with boasting high gains but labs tend to vary and so do results 
I did as well as I could to keep it real in a hot state of Texas where ambient is always hot even in winter 

Only test I did not share because it was suspect was optimus in it's suggested mount and heatkiller 4 pro in the same mount
This one wasn't pretty for HK 4 pro for some odd reason by a lot 

So it be fair to HK 4 pro I left out those results because it's a darn good block but has always liked it's water jet horizontal on my 9940x not vertical again for some odd reason 

Both in horizontal water jet spray
https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=315106&d=1577807478
Both HK 4 pro and Optimus in their best position 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=315734&d=1577997630
Just changed paste to nt-h1
https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=315540&d=1577927911

Make of it what you wish but I'm impressed nice tight core temps under 10c apart in a position even heatkiller 4 pro couldn't beat


----------



## Pilz

*pilz*



JustinThyme said:


> To be fair I said almost the exact same thing, just a bit more eloquently and non asinine.
> 
> Thrash stuck his neck out and came back with they are at least as good as an HK IV Pro within a marigin of error which means they are better than anything EKWB has. Never met Thrash but weve been busting eachothers balls here and a few other places for a few years now and while I might get an ugly chick to whack his nutz if this doesnt work out I trust him to a degree enough to shell out $200 on a block.
> 
> On another side note Optimus did offer up to send me a Demo Signature V2 to try out. Well my issues is I dont have a test bed, its all hard pipe and has to be changed to meet the ports of their block so I dont do demos. Maybe I should buy a test bed and get back at it with that but other things keep my attention these day, did that better than 20 years on cardboard boxes before they had test beds.
> 
> First folding farm was a pile of old MOBOs sharing PSUs on network boot, no GPUs in a basement closet with an AV vent feeding it. Quit that when they all sat idle awaiting work orders and found that folding is a thesis project getting passed down one class to the next and they really dont give a crap so I dont so it anymore.
> 
> ATM Im about to start with the new block and a few other changes then its off to getting ready for spring. I gotta figure out how to tow a 40Ft 5th wheel RV with this......


I'm a blunt person as you can tell. I bought their block so I trust them enough to deliver on their claims but at the same time I'd like to see proper reviews. It's hard to judge something, especially from a new company when there's so little information out there.

Don't take things the wrong way, I'm only hard on companies because I want to see a better product nothing more. Of course I think they're better than EK who has dropped the ball lately. I've been waiting for a company like Optimus to make something new, interesting and innovative for a LONG time now. I always come off as an a**hole but I'm really not, I need to work on that. I'm looking forward to my AM4 block, if it's great, I really hope they make a 3080Ti (or whatever it'll be called) block quickly so I can drop one on mine when they launch.


----------



## Pilz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Usually I'd have an issue with boasting high gains but labs tend to vary and so do results
> I did as well as I could to keep it real in a hot state of Texas where ambient is always hot even in winter
> 
> Only test I did not share because it was suspect was optimus in it's suggested mount and heatkiller 4 pro in the same mount
> This one wasn't pretty for HK 4 pro for some odd reason by a lot
> 
> So it be fair to HK 4 pro I left out those results because it's a darn good block but has always liked it's water jet horizontal on my 9940x not vertical again for some odd reason
> 
> Both in horizontal water jet spray
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=315106&d=1577807478
> Both HK 4 pro and Optimus in their best position
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=315734&d=1577997630
> Just changed paste to nt-h1
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=315540&d=1577927911
> 
> Make of it what you wish but I'm impressed nice tight core temps under 10c apart in a position even heatkiller 4 pro couldn't beat


those are looking good temp wise, I think the block will make a bigger difference on AM4 because of how AMD has their chiplets which I'll find out


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yes only new design block for either x299 or amd that I've noticed 
Even heatkiller 4 pro is getting old now I have no idea when it was designed/ released I just recently acquired two copper plexi

Nobody except now optimus has a new amd block so yes it should be pretty interesting how well it does maybe in six months -+ I might find out first hand


----------



## Optimus WC

Ashcroft said:


> Its nice to a new brand in the watercooling scene. For too long we only saw the numbers and choice in the market going down.
> 
> Having said that. I find some of the claims on the Optimus website a little hard to swallow. 5 and 7 degree drops in temp are very difficult to believe. Having been around for a while and seen some years of progression a drop of 1 or 2C was something to get excited about.
> The huge claims on the site remind me of some of the claims made when delidding first became a thing with people insisting they got 20C drops but when tested in a thorough manner the gains were far more realistic.
> 
> Then there is some of the claims about "most other blocks on the market"
> 
> "Other designs on the market use a cut steel jet plate to create pressure. While cheaper to manufacture, the steel jet plates often rust and cause galvanic corrosion when in contact with the fins, causing problems in the loop" ... Really? rust from a stainless steel plate, and often even? That's quite a claim and I can't say I've ever seen that in a block. As far as I'm aware the only reason they use steel plates is to provide some adjustability. They could make it one piece but that might only be a good design for one CPU. Varying the thickness of the jet plate can make the block work better on different CPU's.
> 
> "Additionally, we only CNC our G1/4” ports, never thread tap. Thread tapping is the industry standard because it’s easy and any budget drill press can do it." ... Its the industry standard? None of the big brands do it. They use the same machined ports. Why the effort to make other brands seem like backyard operations? If your products are really that good they'll sell themselves.
> 
> "Flaking, disintegrating nickel is a widespread problem in liquid cooling. After all, nickel PC fittings and blocks prohibit use with plain water, or you void the warranty. Instead, you must use anti-corrosive fluids to protect nickel components. Why? Because the industry standard electroplated (aka electrolytic) nickel is a cosmetic nickel finish that isn't meant to be used in liquid applications. Often called chrome or shiny nickel, electroplated nickel is cost effective and looks good." ... This one I'm admittedly less sure as to what the current state of affairs is but EKWB were using Electroless Nickel years ago and Aquacomputer use PVD Nickel on at least some of their blocks.
> Claiming that it voids warranty to use water is definitely not true though from the big player brands even if it is a dumb idea.
> 
> Hyperbole is dangerous because while it might impress people now, if the results of real testing don't live up to the hype people will feel lied to. Part of me hopes its all true because it will force the industry forward but the skeptic in me has to temper expectations. We have excellent trusted volunteer testers in the community available like Extremerigs , Thermal Bench etc. Apparently EK has bought some to test so maybe they will make some available.
> 
> I wish the company all the best but would suggest toning down the claims til there is real evidence. Even if the performance claims are true, combining it with some half truths and/or misleading claims is a bad look.


Hey Ashcroft, 

All very valid points. We discussed internally for a while about the marketing. Really, there is so much misinformation out there about liquid cooling, we went for more info rather than less. Things like machining, nickel, ports, etc. are something that no one would understand unless we pointed it out. And we do really, really, really spend a ton of time on those areas, even if they seem like little deals, it's actually huge to us. 

And also because we can back all this up. Tall order, but we stand behind everything. Our 10 year warranty is the longest in the industry because we know the product will stay good. 

For performance, we actually held off mentioning numbers on the website for your exact reason. Now, however, there is lots of tests out there from users who purchased the product, were skeptical but got solid performance gains and posted their results here. 

Also, HardOCP actually reviewed our V1 block and saw 4c better performance than the Raystorm Neo (pic below). 

And there is nothing magic about our products, just really good engineering and really, really accurate machining. For example, attached is a pick of our fin surface area on our upcoming Threadripper block vs the current top TR block. We have 3.5x the surface area. That's why our performance is so much better. There really isn't much more to waterblocks than surface area for heat transfer. 

That said, it's VERY difficult to machine fins like this, which is why our product is more expensive. And we're not here to trash other companies -- we really love what many of them have done!! Especially the german guys, they're top notch and we are only here because others have paved the way  We're aiming to go a level beyond (and our prices reflect that). 

To address other points:

JET PLATES:
Steel jet plates touching copper are a very common issue for galvanic corrosion, even with proper fluid. Like this vid from Kyle (below). While that build clearly has lots of problems, the galvanic action between steel and copper/nickel when they touch is a common known problem. Jet plates are an older style to compensate for challenges in manufacturing (and differences in IHS) but it comes with galvanic tradeoffs. 

MATERIALS: 
There is a HUGE difference between quality materials. So much on the market is mystery brass or copper. See the pic below -- a block is MAGNETIC. Copper and nickel should not be magnetic, if done correctly. And that block is from a premium german brand. The reason magnetism can happen in copper/brass blocks is because of impure metals or using CNC tools for multiple metals. We have a dedicated CNC that does ONLY copper with specific tools. So no ferrous metals or aluminum gets anywhere near our copper. And we only source our metals from suppliers that service aerospace and medical. Now, not every block from other brands is magnetic -- it's maybe 1 out of 10 or so -- but it's common enough to understand the QC manufacturing process that exists in other companies. 

THREADING: 
While we don't know everyone's thread techniques, we can see based on a number of factors that the threads aren't correct. For example, see the pic below of our acrylic threads and how clear they are. That's not seen on other blocks. And we've seen a NUMBER of blocks that don't thread correctly. It's one of these issues that happens when companies have lots of orders and can't change out tools quickly or they use lower quality CNCs. I don't believe most of the ports and threads on the market would meet true BSPP-G thread spec. If you try our fittings, you'll see how they feel much different than typical fittings. They are super solid and precise. 

ACRYLIC: 
Ours is really virtually unbreakable. We use only premium name-brand CAST acrylic. Our acrylic can be cleaned with isopropyl. Nothing else on the market can survive. This is a very well known problem with extruded acrylic that isn't machined to high standards. Try to crack our acrylic CPU blocks, they won't budge. Below is a vid that shows an attempt. 

MACHINING:
Finally, when it comes to machining, we've seen the videos of the other company factory tours. The machines they use -- Haas, Fanuc, etc -- are fine, but not super precise mills for holding tight tolerances. Yes, this really matters. It's why CNCs like ours exist and cost 3-10x what other companies use. Same with fittings. Not every lathe is the same, our swiss-style lathes are much more expensive and can hold tolerances FAR beyond anything in liquid cooling today. 








Performance:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=579&v=HxBknBlpOJM&feature=emb_title


Acrylic test:
https://youtu.be/HxBknBlpOJM?t=914


----------



## Optimus WC

Pilz said:


> ...I've been waiting for a company like Optimus to make something new, interesting and innovative for a LONG time now. I always come off as an a**hole but I'm really not, I need to work on that. I'm looking forward to my AM4 block, if it's great, I really hope they make a 3080Ti (or whatever it'll be called) block quickly so I can drop one on mine when they launch.


Haha, no worries  we're aiming to be that company. We're PC builders who have been either chasing big overclock records or in the PC sales side for years now. Optimus is really the company we've always wanted. The stars aligned and allowed us to pursue this and we're going to do right by the community. If there is a problem, we'll find a solution and make it better. After all, we're not doing anything with LEDs  It's only performance and quality (and customer service!) at Optimus. 

For upcoming products, yes, we'll be doing everything. And everything hopefully quicker than the typical industry turnaround. We're in Chicago, so we can get stuff done fast. We need some industry connections to get us early PCBs (though that's SUPER hard from NVIDIA). Also, our manufacturing is far more modern than typical companies, so we're able to release new product way faster.


----------



## Bart

You guys might want to get off the RGB hate train then.  This is a largely aesthetic hobby. I would argue that aesthetics are almost as important as performance in this market. We water cool for performance AND looks, nobody does this for performance alone. Otherwise we'd all be rocking soft tube and cheap fittings and calling it a day. Looks count, as does quality RGB. This is a big complaint of Watercools AM4 lineup, no RGB. If a block can't be lit up, I'm not buying. And I'm not alone.


----------



## Pilz

Optimus WC said:


> Haha, no worries  we're aiming to be that company. We're PC builders who have been either chasing big overclock records or in the PC sales side for years now. Optimus is really the company we've always wanted. The stars aligned and allowed us to pursue this and we're going to do right by the community. If there is a problem, we'll find a solution and make it better. After all, we're not doing anything with LEDs  It's only performance and quality (and customer service!) at Optimus.
> 
> For upcoming products, yes, we'll be doing everything. And everything hopefully quicker than the typical industry turnaround. We're in Chicago, so we can get stuff done fast. We need some industry connections to get us early PCBs (though that's SUPER hard from NVIDIA). Also, our manufacturing is far more modern than typical companies, so we're able to release new product way faster.


I'm all for new things that are designed well, as mentioned I'm an engineer so I can see how your design and process 'should' lead to a better product. I say should because I haven't tested it myself yet. Will you be making a GPU block for the next-gen cards? To me the biggest things is never running the crappy stock cooler, I immediately removed mine from the 2080Ti FE I own before anything else. 

I don't mind LED's because I keep mine white, they aren't needed and just help with aesthetics. I have enough in my case to light up my room (for fun) but they're pointless in the greater scheme of things. The below image shows mine and my wife's PC's (mine has changed a bit since that was taken). Looks still play a role when you drop $8K on a PC you'd like it to 'feel' as such. These are the first 2 non-Super Tower builds I've done in years so it's a big change for me thermal performance-wise since I can't run dual 560's or 480's in these smaller cases.


----------



## Optimus WC

And I love good looking PCs, here's my most recent build below. But as a company, we'll only do lighting if we're 110% complete with creating (and keeping) performance and quality #1. 

And the issue I see with LEDs as an industry is that some/many companies have sacrificed performance and quality to pursue RGB sales. In general, quality has really taken a hit across the board.

Like the examples below from Kyle. The experience was so bad, he switched to an AIO and stock GPU. That hurts the industry and turns people off from liquid cooling. When it shouldn't be like that at all. Liquid cooling should be MORE stable and more reliable than AIOs and cheap coolers. It's insane to us that the quality is so bad it liquid parts can't survive for 6 months, let alone years. The cheapest faucet from Home Depot is rated for a decade with bad tap water.


----------



## d0mini

I'm a UK PC nerd who's very interested in your Foundation CPU block, especially if you'll be doing EU shipping for less in the near future! Will also be extremely interested in those GPUs whenever the next big releases come out - they look pretty fantastic.

Throwing my 10 generic coins into the current conversation about LEDs: I actually prefer products to look good without any lighting, and for the lighting to be entirely optional so as to avoid potentially unused/messy RGB cables where they aren't necessary.

That being said, if you guys designed your own RGB strip for your blocks and offered that as an additional purchase I think that would work quite well. Even if they just stuck to the side and shone into the acrylic as I think you suggested earlier in this thread!


----------



## Pilz

Optimus WC said:


> And I love good looking PCs, here's my most recent build below. But as a company, we'll only do lighting if we're 110% complete with creating (and keeping) performance and quality #1.
> 
> And the issue I see with LEDs as an industry is that some/many companies have sacrificed performance and quality to pursue RGB sales. In general, quality has really taken a hit across the board.
> 
> Like the examples below from Kyle. The experience was so bad, he switched to an AIO and stock GPU. That hurts the industry and turns people off from liquid cooling. When it shouldn't be like that at all. Liquid cooling should be MORE stable and more reliable than AIOs and cheap coolers. It's insane to us that the quality is so bad it liquid parts can't survive for 6 months, let alone years. The cheapest faucet from Home Depot is rated for a decade with bad tap water.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isL20lm3i8c


I agree, performance first, RGB afterwards. I like your build (saw it on reddit actually). Mayhems Coolant is all I'll run and I've done so for years without issues. I did sacrifice some performance using those silver Lian Li Bora Digital BR fans but I wanted silver/white fans and there aren't many options outside of painting your own. Pics below

I always buy nickel plated blocks and haven't seen any corrosion or flaking. My EK 1080FTW block has discolored a tiny bit (on the plate) but is otherwise fine. Their X99 Monoblock I have for an old build did spiderweb around the G1/4 fittings but doesn't leak. (see below pic of my 1080FTW block after 2 years, it still looks about the same now going on 4 years)


----------



## Optimus WC

Pilz said:


> I agree, performance first, RGB afterwards. I like your build (saw it on reddit actually). Mayhems Coolant is all I'll run and I've done so for years without issues. I did sacrifice some performance using those silver Lian Li Bora Digital BR fans but I wanted silver/white fans and there aren't many options outside of painting your own. Pics below
> 
> I always buy nickel plated blocks and haven't seen any corrosion or flaking. My EK 1080FTW block has discolored a tiny bit (on the plate) but is otherwise fine. Their X99 Monoblock I have for an old build did spiderweb around the G1/4 fittings but doesn't leak. (see below pic of my 1080FTW block after 2 years, it still looks about the same now going on 4 years)


Right on  You got some nice builds there, excellent work!!

Sounds like you've had good luck with quality issues. Reddit is filled with "is this normal??" posts/horror stories. The coolants these days are made to try and cover up for material problems, for the most part. One should really be able to run distilled for a good 6-12 months with zero issues. Or need to use loop prep, etc. We do a bunch of steps to make sure everything is A++ quality, some might not need it, but it's worth it to us


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Right on  You got some nice builds there, excellent work!!
> 
> Sounds like you've had good luck with quality issues. Reddit is filled with "is this normal??" posts/horror stories. The coolants these days are made to try and cover up for material problems, for the most part. One should really be able to run distilled for a good 6-12 months with zero issues. Or need to use loop prep, etc. We do a bunch of steps to make sure everything is A++ quality, some might not need it, but it's worth it to us


Hi,
Yeah just sell strip lighting


----------



## Pilz

Optimus WC said:


> And I love good looking PCs, here's my most recent build below. But as a company, we'll only do lighting if we're 110% complete with creating (and keeping) performance and quality #1.
> 
> And the issue I see with LEDs as an industry is that some/many companies have sacrificed performance and quality to pursue RGB sales. In general, quality has really taken a hit across the board.
> 
> Like the examples below from Kyle. The experience was so bad, he switched to an AIO and stock GPU. That hurts the industry and turns people off from liquid cooling. When it shouldn't be like that at all. Liquid cooling should be MORE stable and more reliable than AIOs and cheap coolers. It's insane to us that the quality is so bad it liquid parts can't survive for 6 months, let alone years. The cheapest faucet from Home Depot is rated for a decade with bad tap water.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isL20lm3i8c





Optimus WC said:


> Right on  You got some nice builds there, excellent work!!
> 
> Sounds like you've had good luck with quality issues. Reddit is filled with "is this normal??" posts/horror stories. The coolants these days are made to try and cover up for material problems, for the most part. One should really be able to run distilled for a good 6-12 months with zero issues. Or need to use loop prep, etc. We do a bunch of steps to make sure everything is A++ quality, some might not need it, but it's worth it to us


Thank you, I have many many more from a wall-mounted Thermaltake P7 to Corsair 1000D

Reddit is also full of people who have 0 idea what they are doing any cause their own issues ontop of some sketchy QC I've seen. 

Idiot-proofing is key these days because there's a huge gap in knowledge between watercooling and CLC's. You either know stuff or you don't...

I've never run prep in a loop. I flush new radiators with vinegar, then distilled water, next I usually do a whole new loop flush with distilled water if I feel like it but not always. I've never had a single issue with Mayhems Pastel Green/White and their UV counterparts. I run inline filters in my loops (1 per loop) to catch the bulk of any trash which inevitably doesn't flush out. After a few weeks of running a new build, I drain the loops, pull filters and clean any minute amount of whatever is in them, then reassemble and see 0 when I check after a few more months.


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah just sell strip lighting


Personally, manufacturing LEDs fills me with anxiety Regular RGB? D-RGB? All the different custom solutions from Corsair, TT, etc. etc. And quality on that stuff is all over the place. 

Plus, we wouldn't obviously fabricate our own diodes or anything, so we'd need to source everything, prob from China, which isn't ideal. 

Thinking the best way to go is to provide machined brackets with diode holes strip areas. So then people can add their own lights or strips and stick to whatever RGB ecosystem they like.


----------



## Optimus WC

Pilz said:


> Thank you, I have many many more from a wall-mounted Thermaltake P7 to Corsair 1000D
> 
> Reddit is also full of people who have 0 idea what they are doing any cause their own issues ontop of some sketchy QC I've seen.
> 
> Idiot-proofing is key these days because there's a huge gap in knowledge between watercooling and CLC's. You either know stuff or you don't...
> 
> I've never run prep in a loop. I flush new radiators with vinegar, then distilled water, next I usually do a whole new loop flush with distilled water if I feel like it but not always. I've never had a single issue with Mayhems Pastel Green/White and their UV counterparts. I run inline filters in my loops (1 per loop) to catch the bulk of any trash which inevitably doesn't flush out. After a few weeks of running a new build, I drain the loops, pull filters and clean any minute amount of whatever is in them, then reassemble and see 0 when I check after a few more months.


For sure, you're pro level so you know what you're doing to get the best out of everything  We really want to make it super reliable for everyone, including workstation users who just want endless performance with no need to service. 

Love this build, BTW!! That front distro is prob the nicest I've seen, wow


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Personally, manufacturing LEDs fills me with anxiety Regular RGB? D-RGB? All the different custom solutions from Corsair, TT, etc. etc. And quality on that stuff is all over the place.
> 
> Plus, we wouldn't obviously fabricate our own diodes or anything, so we'd need to source everything, prob from China, which isn't ideal.
> 
> Thinking the best way to go is to provide machined brackets with diode holes strip areas. So then people can add their own lights or strips and stick to whatever RGB ecosystem they like.


Hi,
Being from Chicago I'm surprised these blocks don't come with more holes in them too 
So many bullets flying around :gunner:


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Being from Chicago I'm surprised these blocks don't come with more holes in them too
> So many bullets flying around :gunner:


We use bulletproof acrylic  

And we're located in the burbs (not downtown), aka the manufacturing areas. So it's SUPER boring and safe lol


----------



## Bart

OptimusWC: how's your shipping to Canada? Any duty issues to worry about? I'm not sure if NAFTA is still a thing, but there was a time when we Canucks could buy good American-made products from our southern neighbors duty free. That was supposed to be the whole IDEA of NAFTA, but not sure if that still exists!


----------



## Optimus WC

Bart said:


> OptimusWC: how's your shipping to Canada? Any duty issues to worry about? I'm not sure if NAFTA is still a thing, but there was a time when we Canucks could buy good American-made products from our southern neighbors duty free. That was supposed to be the whole IDEA of NAFTA, but not sure if that still exists!


We ship a lot to Canada and haven't heard about any new issues/fees  It's the EU guys that get stock with the import taxes.


----------



## Shawnb99

Bart said:


> OptimusWC: how's your shipping to Canada? Any duty issues to worry about? I'm not sure if NAFTA is still a thing, but there was a time when we Canucks could buy good American-made products from our southern neighbors duty free. That was supposed to be the whole IDEA of NAFTA, but not sure if that still exists!


Nope no issues shipping it here. Well besides the high shipping cost.
No duties or anything, just the gouge of the taxes


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
If there is fee's... it's Canada doing it not the U.S.
They have to pay for that free health care some how


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> If there is fee's... it's Canada doing it not the U.S.
> They have to pay for that free health care some how


Should get back to topic but see my PM if your interested in really knowing how bad the Canadian System is. It will shock you but the best medicare is actually in Asia. Some countries even cover dental and encourage you to see the doctor. Just avoid Hong Kong, the doctor's are just out there to make money (I don't question there skill though). One big trip to hospital and big chunk of your savings are gone just like that.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Had to turn off pubic pm's too many weirdos not that you're one but they do spoil it for others but i trust your assessment


----------



## Section31

I hope Optimus 12mm Hard Tube Fitting will be out after the 2080TI water blocks. It's the last component for my friend and for me to start the swapping to the the 3950X.

Also consider us lucky (canadians). It's still affordable for us to get water parts from Europe and America. If you were in Asia, getting ahold of certain brands is not cost effective compared to straight buying BarrowsCH and Bykski. Bitspower is just too expensive compared to BarrowsCH, Bykski that even in Taiwan, its cheaper to buy from China. Optimus would be unaffordable there. 

Fortunate another of my friend building an new rig moved back to Canada and ended up getting one of your blocks and may get your 12mm fittings as well. I am giving some of my spare 12mm petg tubing to him.


----------



## Pilz

Optimus WC said:


> For sure, you're pro level so you know what you're doing to get the best out of everything  We really want to make it super reliable for everyone, including workstation users who just want endless performance with no need to service.
> 
> Love this build, BTW!! That front distro is prob the nicest I've seen, wow


Thank you, it's made by Radikult custom (I'll link his eBay store). The materials are good but not on the same level as what you described using. He CNC's everything and has videos showing the process which I'll also post below. It's an expensive panel, $400 after shipping + tax but worth the money. 

Store:
https://www.ebay.com/str/RadikultCustom?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

YouTube:


----------



## vmanuelgm

Nice comparison.

Do u have the flat version???


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Nope no issues shipping it here. Well besides the high shipping cost.
> No duties or anything, just the gouge of the taxes


No taxes here. Something about the canadian border going both ways. I once bought some lens filters from a guy in Edmonton. Cost of lens filters was like $30. The customs was only like $5. The damn UPS "Brokerage fee was over $50!!
I just paid the USPS 2 day that was a bit longer than expected. I knew ordering friday mid day they most likely would not go out until Monday but that didnt happen.


----------



## skupples

I’ll be replacing my ek velocity after my GPU block gets in. It’ll easily beat that by 4-5c.

Just wish their biggest block also worked with mainstream intel socket. Maybe I read it wrong.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> I’ll be replacing my ek velocity after my GPU block gets in. It’ll easily beat that by 4-5c.
> 
> Just wish their biggest block also worked with mainstream intel socket. Maybe I read it wrong.


Hi,
Probably closer to 8-10


----------



## ugotd8

Optimus WC said:


> For sure, you're pro level so you know what you're doing to get the best out of everything  We really want to make it super reliable for everyone, including workstation users who just want endless performance with no need to service.
> 
> Love this build, BTW!! That front distro is prob the nicest I've seen, wow


Those are the nicest for sure. Made by Radikultcustoms found him on youtube and ebay. Quality stuff and good guy too. I have his 280mm pump/res in my TT Level 20 XT. 

Edit:


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> No taxes here. Something about the canadian border going both ways. I once bought some lens filters from a guy in Edmonton. Cost of lens filters was like $30. The customs was only like $5. The damn UPS "Brokerage fee was over $50!!
> I just paid the USPS 2 day that was a bit longer than expected. I knew ordering friday mid day they most likely would not go out until Monday but that didnt happen.


Yeah the Brokerage fees from UPS are the worst. They charged me like $120 for my GPU one time


----------



## iunlock

Hey guys, I'll have a review of the V2 Optimus block soon. I've been following them for about a year now and was wanting one back then due to the unique fin design, however, as some of you may know it was all out of stock for the longest time. It's great to see them back with an awesome product line range. - I'm pretty optimistic that the Optimus blocks will outperform the popular offerings. Even if it's by a few degrees, every drop in C counts, especially for overclockers like me. 

Congrats to those that have theirs already...


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> JustinThyme said:
> 
> 
> 
> No taxes here. Something about the canadian border going both ways. I once bought some lens filters from a guy in Edmonton. Cost of lens filters was like $30. The customs was only like $5. The damn UPS "Brokerage fee was over $50!!
> I just paid the USPS 2 day that was a bit longer than expected. I knew ordering friday mid day they most likely would not go out until Monday but that didnt happen.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah the Brokerage fees from UPS are the worst. They charged me like $120 for my GPU one time
Click to expand...

Eh, their 115x blocks aren’t where they’re failing miserably. I expect no more than 5c


----------



## acoustic

iunlock said:


> Hey guys, I'll have a review of the V2 Optimus block soon. I've been following them for about a year now and was wanting one back then due to the unique fin design, however, as some of you may know it was all out of stock for the longest time. It's great to see them back with an awesome product line range. - I'm pretty optimistic that the Optimus blocks will outperform the popular offerings. Even if it's by a few degrees, every drop in C counts, especially for overclockers like me.
> 
> Congrats to those that have theirs already...


That is a sweet OC on the 9900K. Wow.


----------



## CarbonBlack

I designed a led shroud for my new Optimus Foundation block, just have to find time to mount the block later.


----------



## skupples

gorgeous... 

me thinks something similar will show up on their product list some day.


----------



## iunlock

CarbonBlack said:


> I designed a led shroud for my new Optimus Foundation block, just have to find time to mount the block later.


Very nice mate.


----------



## tistou77

CarbonBlack said:


> I designed a led shroud for my new Optimus Foundation block, just have to find time to mount the block later.


Very nice :thumb:

This is what Optimus (Acrylic) waterblock lacks

But I don't see where you put the leds


----------



## skupples

looks like he fed a strip inside the housing... 

my question is if that's a BP wireless charger triggering the LEDs somehow? wireless LEDs = we're truly in the 21st.


----------



## tistou77

skupples said:


> looks like he fed a strip inside the housing...
> 
> my question is if that's a BP wireless charger triggering the LEDs somehow? wireless LEDs = we're truly in the 21st.


Ok, like ekwb Velocity (an RGB wire would not be disturbing)


----------



## skupples

idk. I don't use RGBs outside of general case accent lighting. 

my velocity has a black top cuz no LEDs


----------



## tistou77

skupples said:


> idk. I don't use RGBs outside of general case accent lighting.
> 
> my velocity has a black top cuz no LEDs


Ok, I have this one









With the RGB strip under the Acrylic top (it does not affect the quality, performance, etc ... of the waterblock at all)


----------



## Optimus WC

CarbonBlack said:


> I designed a led shroud for my new Optimus Foundation block, just have to find time to mount the block later.


Wow, that looks great!! Well done, and super awesome to see a creative solution for our block rather than just going with another rgb block out there 

Realistically, it'll be quite a while until we make any sort of led add-on. Our priority is doing the full assortment of core components. So that means blocks for all CPUs, then GPUs (incl FTW/Kingpin, Strix, big navi, xl navi, 3080ti, 4080ti, etc etc.). As well as all fittings and pump/res. Then radiators. Then cases. Then rgb gaming chairs (that's a joke). 

BUT -- we could support a community 3D printed LED add-on. We'd have to think about the details, but seems doable for people that want the blinks


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Then rgb gaming chairs (that's a joke).


Thanks for this. Now someone is going to come out with a RGB gaming chair. Do NOT give them idea's like this!!


----------



## Pilz

CarbonBlack said:


> I designed a led shroud for my new Optimus Foundation block, just have to find time to mount the block later.


3D printed? Any interest in selling one?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah that's a nice aregeebee mod


----------



## TK421

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah that's a nice aregeebee mod





Don't you mean AreGayBee?


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> Thanks for this. Now someone is going to come out with a RGB gaming chair. Do NOT give them idea's like this!!


Oh, such innocence, believing RGB chairs don't already exist


----------



## ciarlatano

Shawnb99 said:


> Thanks for this. Now someone is going to come out with a RGB gaming chair. Do NOT give them idea's like this!!





Optimus WC said:


> Oh, such innocence, believing RGB chairs don't already exist


 @Optimus WC - You beat me to it. I saw @Shawnb99's post and was like "you really think they aren't already all over this??????".


----------



## Pilz

Optimus WC said:


> CarbonBlack said:
> 
> 
> 
> I designed a led shroud for my new Optimus Foundation block, just have to find time to mount the block later.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, that looks great!! Well done, and super awesome to see a creative solution for our block rather than just going with another rgb block out there /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> Realistically, it'll be quite a while until we make any sort of led add-on. Our priority is doing the full assortment of core components. So that means blocks for all CPUs, then GPUs (incl FTW/Kingpin, Strix, big navi, xl navi, 3080ti, 4080ti, etc etc.). As well as all fittings and pump/res. Then radiators. Then cases. Then rgb gaming chairs (that's a joke).
> 
> BUT -- we could support a community 3D printed LED add-on. We'd have to think about the details, but seems doable for people that want the blinks /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

That's how things should be. LEDs should be secondary to a good product, EK/TT/Corsair need someone to tell them that.

Edit: I've been in touch with EK for a while about their mediocre performance. I told them their block is going away on my build in favor of the Foundation 🙂 

They were somewhat receptive of the feedback I gave them prior to telling them the above. Maybe things will change but I don't foresee them making anything with the same quality as what you described 


Anyways, I ordered my block last week, no updates, emailed support , no response, can you check on Order #OP1288 and DM me please?


----------



## skupples

ok now that's just vomit overload. I'm sorry, but that CROSSES THAT GOSH DERN LINE!

uhg, I spent 2 hours reading about bias lighting earlier today & never came a conclusion. Should I spend $70 on the dynamic kit that syncs to your screen via a camera that dumps into a little pi box? or should I just get the $10 6K kelvin strip & call it a day. 

then I got stuck trying to wrap my mind around how its still possible for Philips to have a stranglehold on the high end RGB market -.-


----------



## ciarlatano

Pilz said:


> That's how things should be. LEDs should be secondary to a good product, EK/TT/Corsair need someone to tell them that.


Actually....it's the people who buy EK/Tt/Corsair who need to be told that.


----------



## skupples

ciarlatano said:


> Actually....it's the people who buy EK/Tt/Corsair who need to be told that.


we try to constantly, n you can see them battling it in their minds, n yet they still decide to go RGB over quality every time. 

I blame WoW. always, still, and forever.


----------



## Optimus WC

Pilz said:


> That's how things should be. LEDs should be secondary to a good product, EK/TT/Corsair need someone to tell them that.
> 
> Edit: I've been in touch with EK for a while about their mediocre performance. I told them their block is going away on my build in favor of the Foundation 🙂
> 
> They were somewhat receptive of the feedback I gave them prior to telling them the above. Maybe things will change but I don't foresee them making anything with the same quality as what you described
> 
> 
> Anyways, I ordered my block last week, no updates, emailed support , no response, can you check on Order #OP1288 and DM me please?


I think you got their attention! Check out the last paragraph: http://bit.ly/2FKrHYU

We feel confident that we're able to make the best, not just because of design, but also manufacturing. It'll be really hard for a company to match our machining tech. And at our price point. But we hope we can bring the rest of the biz along for upgrading quality across the board, not just performance. 

For your order, I see it was placed Thurs, we wanted to ship on Friday though we were slammed with some projects. Sorry for the delay! Our Foundations have been really popular so we're working like crazy to get everything shipped asap


----------



## Bart

CarbonBlack said:


> I designed a led shroud for my new Optimus Foundation block, just have to find time to mount the block later.


+REP, nicely done!


----------



## Cloudforever

Section31 said:


> I am wondering if anyone has experiences with Optimus CPU Waterblocks. I just ordered one of there AM4 blocks out. There aren't many reviews out there except the hardocp one (using the intel v1 block) and they had some very good results.


not sure if i responded to this thread.

But I purchased one about almost 2 years ago, the V1 version.

i absolutely love it.

I've not cleaned it out since originally put in, but my PC runs about 23c most of the time, unless i'm running a ton of VM's on and raises to 40s-50s maybe.

i'm running all distilled water.


----------



## Optimus WC

Cloudforever said:


> not sure if i responded to this thread.
> 
> But I purchased one about almost 2 years ago, the V1 version.
> 
> i absolutely love it.
> 
> I've not cleaned it out since originally put in, but my PC runs about 23c most of the time, unless i'm running a ton of VM's on and raises to 40s-50s maybe.
> 
> i'm running all distilled water.


That's awesome! 2 years strong, and on distilled no less


----------



## Cloudforever

Optimus WC said:


> That's awesome! 2 years strong, and on distilled no less


definitely!!

I have been dying to clean it out just to see how it looks. Just havent had time.

i'll definitely be showing my findings as soon as I do.

super impressed with the product, i always tell people to buy them when I can. it's definitely worth the investment


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> I think you got their attention! Check out the last paragraph: http://bit.ly/2FKrHYU
> 
> We feel confident that we're able to make the best, not just because of design, but also manufacturing. It'll be really hard for a company to match our machining tech. And at our price point. But we hope we can bring the rest of the biz along for upgrading quality across the board, not just performance.
> 
> For your order, I see it was placed Thurs, we wanted to ship on Friday though we were slammed with some projects. Sorry for the delay! Our Foundations have been really popular so we're working like crazy to get everything shipped asap


they ended their premium account with OCN not too long ago, and stopped repping long before that. They heard it loud and clear 

unfortunately, you've shown up just in time to see OCN at its' lowest. Hopefully the next platform change helps


----------



## Optimus WC

Cloudforever said:


> definitely!!
> 
> I have been dying to clean it out just to see how it looks. Just havent had time.
> 
> i'll definitely be showing my findings as soon as I do.
> 
> super impressed with the product, i always tell people to buy them when I can. it's definitely worth the investment


Yeah, let us know how that goes  I bet our block looks solid, though who knows what has happened to the other components. Often we'll see stuff build up in our fins, as one would expect. The mystery goo is typically bad flaky nickel having disintegrated and combined with o-ring plasticizer.


----------



## Pilz

Optimus WC said:


> I think you got their attention! Check out the last paragraph: http://bit.ly/2FKrHYU
> 
> We feel confident that we're able to make the best, not just because of design, but also manufacturing. It'll be really hard for a company to match our machining tech. And at our price point. But we hope we can bring the rest of the biz along for upgrading quality across the board, not just performance.
> 
> For your order, I see it was placed Thurs, we wanted to ship on Friday though we were slammed with some projects. Sorry for the delay! Our Foundations have been really popular so we're working like crazy to get everything shipped asap


I've been telling them for a while but I highly doubt anything I said contributed enough. 

It'll depend on the machinery cost vs their break even. Some bigger companies likely have deep enough pockets to do the same if they can make a business case to do so


Thank you for letting me know, so tomorrow I suppose?


----------



## Optimus WC

Pilz said:


> I've been telling them for a while but I highly doubt anything I said contributed enough.
> 
> It'll depend on the machinery cost vs their break even. Some bigger companies likely have deep enough pockets to do the same if they can make a business case to do so
> 
> 
> Thank you for letting me know, so tomorrow I suppose?


We're pretty confident we can stay ahead of the curve, there is a lot of secret sauce in our products. Even if companies try to knock off our designs exactly, it'll be really hard for them to do it, even with a massive investment in both engineering and equipment. And, interestingly, companies like Corsair, which are huge, seem to be going in the other direction -- cheaper injection molding, cheaper materials, etc. 

For your order, I've told the guys to make sure it ships asap tomorrow!


----------



## skupples

but of course... what point is there in even doing business unless you're 50x'ing your cost per unit?


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> but of course... what point is there in even doing business unless you're 50x'ing your investment?


Wait, we're supposed to be at 50x? Uh oh.


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> Wait, we're supposed to be at 50x? Uh oh.


ok fine, 20x? i mean, how else we gonna buy a yacht?

i tell ya' what. 49x'ing like AMD in 5 years, or no deal. (more like 35, but who cares when in exponential gains land)


---seriousness.

chances of gpus moving this week? I have a 2080ti screaming in my ear


----------



## Pilz

Optimus WC said:


> We're pretty confident we can stay ahead of the curve, there is a lot of secret sauce in our products. Even if companies try to knock off our designs exactly, it'll be really hard for them to do it, even with a massive investment in both engineering and equipment. And, interestingly, companies like Corsair, which are huge, seem to be going in the other direction -- cheaper injection molding, cheaper materials, etc.
> 
> For your order, I've told the guys to make sure it ships asap tomorrow!


I appreciate your help! I need to run some stress tests before I install the block to get a baseline. I'll be sure to post pictures of it installed as well.

I don't doubt that Corsair farmed out their stuff to HW Labs (rads), Bitspower (fittings) and other companies. Their blocks have always been cheap, making open-loop stuff didn't change their mass-market mindset. Corsair is one of those companies I hate/like sometimes depending on the product. I've owned 6 cases from them including the 1000D in my closet, none were really well designed.


----------



## skupples

HWL & BP make quality stuff. It's their blocks that look like aliexpress daily deal units.

to this day, I've yet to have a single BP rotary fail from tolerance or corrosion. can't say that about anything else aside from enzotech chrome. (7 years with this current batch) everything else has either failed @ the rotary, or grown barnacles (just water!!!) so that's another reason why I entertain Mayhem's droplets/X1. stuff just works. (all powder coated fittings, I don't like RGB glinting off my fittings into my eyes)


----------



## Pilz

skupples said:


> HWL & BP make quality stuff. It's their blocks that look like aliexpress daily deal units.
> 
> to this day, I've yet to have a single BP rotary fail from tolerance or corrosion. can't say that about anything else aside from enzotech chrome. (7 years with this current batch) everything else has either failed @ the rotary, or grown barnacles (just water!!!) so that's another reason why I entertain Mayhem's droplets/X1. stuff just works. (all powder coated fittings, I don't like RGB glinting off my fittings into my eyes)


I agree, I love BP and HW Labs, great stuff, 0 issues to date. EK fittings have been leak-free for me too thankfully. I run Mayhems Pastel and to this day have no problems. EK's non-silver fittings suck, but I run silver so


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Oh, such innocence, believing RGB chairs don't already exist


Oh god. Now I'm going to be seeing those in my nightmares


----------



## boostedevo

Any test of the Optimus v2 cpu block? I’d like to support a USA company especially if it’s better than my overseas made Raystorm Pro


----------



## shiokarai

Pilz said:


> skupples said:
> 
> 
> 
> HWL & BP make quality stuff. It's their blocks that look like aliexpress daily deal units.
> 
> to this day, I've yet to have a single BP rotary fail from tolerance or corrosion. can't say that about anything else aside from enzotech chrome. (7 years with this current batch) everything else has either failed @ the rotary, or grown barnacles (just water!!!) so that's another reason why I entertain Mayhem's droplets/X1. stuff just works. (all powder coated fittings, I don't like RGB glinting off my fittings into my eyes)
> 
> 
> 
> I agree, I love BP and HW Labs, great stuff, 0 issues to date. EK fittings have been leak-free for me too thankfully. I run Mayhems Pastel and to this day have no problems. EK's non-silver fittings suck, but I run silver so
Click to expand...

Yeah, bitspower fittings are expensive but their quality is really unmatched. I have some EK fittings in their nickel, black nickel and copper finishes and almost every one of them looks discolored, tarnished, generally bad after just 3 years, bitspower on the other hand - like new. EK has the best dual D5 top on the market and best maitenance-free tubing (ZMT) and that’s about it. Everything else is medicore or worse. Well, maybe their recent D5 are ok and finally working with aquaero.


----------



## newls1

well, well, well.... I didnt realize I made optimus's website for my thread i made on here! Feel kinda special, cant lie! Do I get any royalties!!??


----------



## JustinThyme

boostedevo said:


> Any test of the Optimus v2 cpu block? I’d like to support a USA company especially if it’s better than my overseas made Raystorm Pro


Unfortunately there are none. Just a few users here and there and one VERY inaccurate marketing video done by Matt O at PPCs who would tell a kid that goat poo was chocolate Ice cream if he could make a sale. 

Same question I posed when this thread popped up. Every other water block thats worth even mentioning has a run though by the usual reviewers. They have none yet. I suggested they send a few samples out to a few of them as even the youtube idiots installing one is exposure. Except the goat poo salesmen who reported an 8C drop which anyone with an amoeba sized brain knows is hogwash. 

I bit the bullet and will run down thrash and give him a nut kick (or pay some little kid to do it on a sneak attack) if it doesnt work at least as well as my HK IV Pro. My guess is its possible it MAY outperform by a 3C or so tops with all else being equal (5C Im not counting on in the least but could be wrong). 

What I can tell you thus far is I did receive my Signature V2 Nickel and the only thing Im not too confident in it the mounting hardware. Im up in the air ATM on if I use the hardware that came from my HK IV pro to mount it or what they sent. 

The Sig V2 is simplistic, thats how I like it. Take away mounting hardware and you have the 4 screws that hold the cold plate in, the cold plate, the main housing with jet machined into it and two Orings. No razor blades or chunks of plastic to set just right inside the block. Strap it on, pipe it up, done. I had other things to do as well and have all my parts here, now just time to get buy as I have time over the next several days. Ill pop up unboxing photos even though Ive already cleaned the ourside of the block that has some black goop on the edges of the cold plate and on the front of the body that came off with 99% alcohol pretty easily. 









shiokarai said:


> Yeah, bitspower fittings are expensive but their quality is really unmatched. I have some EK fittings in their nickel, black nickel and copper finishes and almost every one of them looks discolored, tarnished, generally bad after just 3 years, bitspower on the other hand - like new. EK has the best dual D5 top on the market and best maitenance-free tubing (ZMT) and that’s about it. Everything else is medicore or worse. Well, maybe their recent D5 are ok and finally working with aquaero.


+1
EK fittings blow, Barrow fittings blow too but are better than EK. I was actually a bit set back when I got that EK garbage on my first order from them some years ago because they "Only guarantee their fittings with their blocks. That was better than $100 in the toilet! Ordered direct and they woulnt take them back, said leaking was due to improper installation techniques, too much or too little torque. Im like you are sheeting me right? Is there an Oring compression gauge and fitting torque wrench? Barrow is a Bitpower knock off and not a very good one but better than EK IMO

I use exclusively bitpower fittings and Use a bitspower dual D5 top (You RGB freaks can even light em up, black and clear). Ive not compared it to performance of EK, its about the bitspower works great and takes up way less space. Acetal version (they have clear too looks sexy with the bitspower D5 mod kit in red. 

Just genric crap I grabbed off the net on EK ugly. Last photo is actual bitspower installed in my rig (yeah I know I need to dust). Two Primochill Pwm D5s bought new last rebuild (You cant give me a swiftech after the last two I got from them one was DOA and they would not honor the warranty, said I ran it dry without ever having laid eyes on it) with the bitpower make me pretty dresses pump 7L /min though 4 blocks (HK IV PRO, Phanteks 2080Tis pair and VRM block) and 3 rads at 100%, I generally run them around 60% slightly offset by a few percent.

One of the tricks of using dual D5s, offest them a little and they actually cancel the noise of eachother out enough to where they are inaudible at 60-75% and minimal high pitch at 100%. When Im running that high (which is seldom) the fans drown them out anyhow. You will need a PWM controller capable of this. I use Aquaero.

Ive used the same bits power fittings in 3 build now with replacing a few orings here and there. They still look the same as the day I bought them and most importantly, THEY WORK!!! Takes a few tricks to get them on like wetting the tube first but I saw one gut give up on the compression fittings in a group and Im like *** dude? he ran them for a year with no darn compression rings!


----------



## ThrashZone

boostedevo said:


> Any test of the Optimus v2 cpu block? I’d like to support a USA company especially if it’s better than my overseas made Raystorm Pro


Hi,
I did some tests against a heatkiller 4 pro copper plexi 
Optimus won by a 3c nose

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-59.html#post28261118

And scroll down a couple posts with different paste


----------



## JustinThyme

Photos of exactly how it came out of the shipping box which was appropriately sized. Well almost exact, i did clean edges of cold plate and body but other than they everything that came in the box, dust and all.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
It is the windy city 
Mine seemed pretty clean but then again it's the hot potato item


----------



## ciarlatano

shiokarai said:


> Yeah, bitspower fittings are expensive but their quality is really unmatched. I have some EK fittings in their nickel, black nickel and copper finishes and almost every one of them looks discolored, tarnished, generally bad after just 3 years, bitspower on the other hand - like new. EK has the best dual D5 top on the market and best maitenance-free tubing (ZMT) and that’s about it. Everything else is medicore or worse. Well, maybe their recent D5 are ok and finally working with aquaero.


ZMT is far from the best maintenance free tubing on the market. Tygon A-60-G has all of the benefits of ZMT, and has proper ID and OD so you aren't struggling with the compression fittings of your choice, or backed into using EK's lousy fittings. But, they absolutely do make some of the best D5 tops available.




JustinThyme said:


> +1
> EK fittings blow, Barrow fittings blow too but are better than EK.


Yup, they are the worst. Or at least the worst I have ever come into contact with.

But....I am looking forward to trying out the Optimus fittings. Because, you know, I have nothing better to do with a couple of hundred bucks than change out perfectly working fittings because Optimus has me intrigued.


----------



## ciarlatano

JustinThyme said:


> Photos of exactly how it came out of the shipping box which was appropriately sized. Well almost exact, i did clean edges of cold plate and body but other than they everything that came in the box, dust and all.


Ceramique 2? Well.....that's the first disappointing thing I've seen in this thread.


----------



## ThrashZone

ciarlatano said:


> ZMT is far from the best maintenance free tubing on the market. Tygon A-60-G has all of the benefits of ZMT, and has proper ID and OD so you aren't struggling with the compression fittings of your choice, or backed into using EK's lousy fittings. But, they absolutely do make some of the best D5 tops available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, they are the worst. Or at least the worst I have ever come into contact with.
> 
> But....I am looking forward to trying out the Optimus fittings. Because, you know, I have nothing better to do with a couple of hundred bucks than change out perfectly working fittings because Optimus has me intrigued.


Hi,
Ek fittings dipped in vinegar


----------



## Optimus WC

ciarlatano said:


> Ceramique 2? Well.....that's the first disappointing thing I've seen in this thread.


Lol, I hear ya. It turns out it's hard for a new company like us to get premium paste. The top guys quoted us at basically retail price or they have agreements with other brands. Now that we're a little more established, hopefully we can work something out.


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> Lol, I hear ya. It turns out it's hard for a new company like us to get premium paste. The top guys quoted us at basically retail price or they have agreements with other brands. Now that we're a little more established, hopefully we can work something out.


Honestly Id invest elsewhere. Forget the paste. Most enthusiast would rather pay a few bucks less or even get a cheap case badge over a plop of TIM. Everyone has a favorite brand and buys the 5gm tubes. I have 3 sitting in my WC kit. Kryonaut, Conductonaut, and MX-4. While everyone sends out a tiny tube, 99% of those that I get guzinta...........guzinta the trash!




ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> It is the windy city
> Mine seemed pretty clean but then again it's the hot potato item


Wind should have blown off the dust then! No biggie but something for Optimus to be aware of. You only get one chance at a fist impression. Thats more feedback for them than anything. 

Ever gotten anything from Phanteks? Now those people know how to package and present a product! Top notch packaging. 

With this case a sharper cut on the foam, which Im certain packaging is probably outsourced, and a lint roller before you close up the box or even duct tape. The black goo is what really disappointed me as well as the unclean (allthough not horribly) surface of the body. That looked like residue from a round through an ultrasonic cleaner and Ill probably wipe it down with some 190 proof moonshine after install just for some extra kick! Then drink the rest of the bottle so that 3C when seeing double looks like 8C.


----------



## tistou77

Hi

while waiting for the Foundation to be available in Europe, have people moved from ek Velocity/EVO (or other) to the Foundation ?

Using rigid tube, I would like to know if the OUT of the Foundation is placed in the same place as on the other brands
The IN and OUT of other brands are in exactly the same place (no worries with tubing) but with the Foundation, the IN is not in the same "place" and I wonder for the OUT

Thanks for your help


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> Honestly Id invest elsewhere. Forget the paste. Most enthusiast would rather pay a few bucks less or even get a cheap case badge over a plop of TIM. Everyone has a favorite brand and buys the 5gm tubes. I have 3 sitting in my WC kit. Kryonaut, Conductonaut, and MX-4. While everyone sends out a tiny tube, 99% of those that I get guzinta...........guzinta the trash!




Yeah forget about the paste. Everyone has their preference. I didn’t even look at what came with the block, nor would I have used it.


----------



## Pilz

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah forget about the paste. Everyone has their preference. I didn’t even look at what came with the block, nor would I have used it.


Agreed, I have 7-8 small tubes that came with who knows what at this point. I always keep a 5g tube of Kryonaught and MX-4 (back up) on hand. Very few people who are going to buy a new niche product from a small company care about that stuff. These are enthusiast products where packaging/presentation (for new buyers) matters more than paste.


----------



## Shawnb99

Unless Optimus can prove their paste is 6c better then everyone else like their blocks, leave the paste out.


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> Unless Optimus can prove their paste is 6c better then everyone else like their blocks, leave the paste out.


Nope, we're not brewing our own tubs of paste  We want to include the good stuff with our blocks eventually. The Ceramique is only there for people who complain when there is no paste in the box.


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Ek fittings dipped in vinegar


yep, perfect photo example of what's happened to every single fitting from every single company, except BP and chromed EnzoTech.

My BP fittings still function just like they did on day one. it's actually kinda annoying how stiff the rotaries are. (I use one per run to reduce flex/make things easier)


----------



## JustinThyme

tistou77 said:


> Hi
> 
> while waiting for the Foundation to be available in Europe, have people moved from ek Velocity/EVO (or other) to the Foundation ?
> 
> Using rigid tube, I would like to know if the OUT of the Foundation is placed in the same place as on the other brands
> The IN and OUT of other brands are in exactly the same place (no worries with tubing) but with the Foundation, the IN is not in the same "place" and I wonder for the OUT
> 
> Thanks for your help


The out is about the same but I think the optimus maybe a mm or two further to the outside. The inlet on the optimus is a good bit more toward the outside. Hard tubing will definitely need tweaking. If you look at the pics I posted of the Sig V2 they are placed the same as the foundation. Only notable difference it the signature is milled from one solid piece of brass and the foundation is an acrylic block, mounting plate and cold plate so a 4 more screws and another Oring. 3 piece construction vs 2 piece on the signature V2.

Its an easier transition than from the HK Pro IV where the inlet is center and the outlet is left and totally different from EK and Optimus.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> yep, perfect photo example of what's happened to every single fitting from every single company, except BP and chromed EnzoTech.
> 
> My BP fittings still function just like they did on day one. it's actually kinda annoying how stiff the rotaries are. (I use one per run to reduce flex/make things easier)


Hi,
Yep clearly some bad batches are likely from ek and Slavia or where ever that are made 
I'll see what the alphacools are like.


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep clearly some bad batches are likely from ek and Slavia or where ever that are made
> I'll see what the alphacools are like.


Wait until you try our fittings, they're epic, especially the hardline gasket system, waay harder to pull off.


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> Wait until you try our fittings, they're epic, especially the hardline gasket system, waay harder to pull off.


Do they fit 12mm OD tubing? Lack of choice is whats killing you there as well as lack of options. Looks like a good design, just need more options for size, 90s, etc. Im running 12mm OD tubing and have been and using same fittings for some time. If you had more options and I was working on a new build it may be different. Thing is the darn fitting are probably the most expensive part of a build.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Wait until you try our fittings, they're epic, especially the hardline gasket system, waay harder to pull off.


Hi,
I don't do hard tube only soft tubing i fiddle too much to bother with the hard stuff 

Octopus 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=318530&d=1578922643


----------



## tistou77

JustinThyme said:


> The out is about the same but I think the optimus maybe a mm or two further to the outside. The inlet on the optimus is a good bit more toward the outside. Hard tubing will definitely need tweaking. If you look at the pics I posted of the Sig V2 they are placed the same as the foundation. Only notable difference it the signature is milled from one solid piece of brass and the foundation is an acrylic block, mounting plate and cold plate so a 4 more screws and another Oring. 3 piece construction vs 2 piece on the signature V2.
> 
> Its an easier transition than from the HK Pro IV where the inlet is center and the outlet is left and totally different from EK and Optimus.


Ok thanks for your feedback :thumb:
For the IN, no worries (just a modification that will take me less than 2 minutes )
For the OUT, if more than 1mm, I should redo the tubing, which does not really delights me


----------



## newls1

been a hot minute since ive read up on this thread since my block is all installed and working good.... Has Optimus came out with a new mounting design yet with a backplate setup or no?


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> i fiddle too much to bother with the hard stuff


Im gonna leave that one alone!!! LOL


----------



## skupples

n most of us have tubes of paste & metal already. I keep the 1g sample tubes that come with blocks as emergency kits/friend's/family/contract builds.

(WTB GPU tacker    )


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Im gonna leave that one alone!!! LOL


Hi,
Doesn't have to be all that pretty to perform well


----------



## Optimus WC

tistou77 said:


> Ok thanks for your feedback :thumb:
> For the IN, no worries (just a modification that will take me less than 2 minutes )
> For the OUT, if more than 1mm, I should redo the tubing, which does not really delights me


To clarify the ports, the Foundation and reservoir and everything but the Signature have the same distance between the ports, approx 40mm. The Signature is a little closer together. The Foundation top can be rotated in any direction (along with the cold plate) so you can adjust in/out easily.


----------



## Optimus WC

JustinThyme said:


> Do they fit 12mm OD tubing? Lack of choice is whats killing you there as well as lack of options. Looks like a good design, just need more options for size, 90s, etc. Im running 12mm OD tubing and have been and using same fittings for some time. If you had more options and I was working on a new build it may be different. Thing is the darn fitting are probably the most expensive part of a build.


We're working on 12mm and 90 female/female now. We relaunched only 4 months ago, so we're working like crazy to get new stuff made. Our background is aerospace fittings/components and we'll be making an entire lineup with lots of new features and quality. But we're a brand new, small company, so we're trying our best to build a full lineup as fast as we can


----------



## Pilz

Optimus WC said:


> To clarify the ports, the Foundation and reservoir and everything but the Signature have the same distance between the ports, approx 40mm. The Signature is a little closer together. The Foundation top can be rotated in any direction (along with the cold plate) so you can adjust in/out easily.


Seeing how you make 12mm hardline fittings, are 16mm in the works too? I use Bitspower compression fittings for mine, they're quite good. I'm not sure what the market % is for 12mm and 16mm in terms of hardline builds, but I've always run 16mm because 12 looks too small (among other reasons)


----------



## Optimus WC

Pilz said:


> Seeing how you make 12mm hardline fittings, are 16mm in the works too? I use Bitspower compression fittings for mine, they're quite good. I'm not sure what the market % is for 12mm and 16mm in terms of hardline builds, but I've always run 16mm because 12 looks too small (among other reasons)


Yup! 12mm is easy to do first since it's so close to 1/2". 16mm is slightly larger than our current fitting, so we'll need to do a little more work to make it look clean. Also our 90 degree mate up perfectly with the fittings, meaning it's perfectly smooth from the fitting to angle to fitting again, no knurl, no dips, just super clean. We want to make sure 16mm can have the same look.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Since G1/4 holes are only so big I don't see the point in 16mm hard lines 
Just causes resistance into every smaller hole water goes through.


----------



## Pilz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Since G1/4 holes are only so big I don't see the point in 16mm hard lines
> Just causes resistance into every smaller hole water goes through.


Aesthetics, I could see the pressure difference being a concern but I can tell you after years of running them it's fine. I prefer the look of 16mm because it looks nicer in builds as a whole which is the main reason I opted for it.


----------



## ThrashZone

Pilz said:


> Aesthetics, I could see the pressure difference being a concern but I can tell you after years of running them it's fine. I prefer the look of 16mm because it looks nicer in builds as a whole which is the main reason I opted for it.


Hi,
No doubt 16mm looks great :thumb:
But still I wouldn't use it in hard tube unless the wall was thicker.


----------



## Shawnb99

Any plans for 10/13mm compression fittings? Plus any plans on discounts if ordering a large amount.
I'd need at least 20+ fittings for my build alone.


----------



## Pilz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> No doubt 16mm looks great :thumb:
> But still I wouldn't use it in hard tube unless the wall was thicker.


I'm an engineer dealing with fluid mechanics among other things. If there was an issue with using 16mm tubing I wouldn't use it or be shy about saying so. I can deadhead my pump by closing a valve and still be completely fine


----------



## ThrashZone

Pilz said:


> I'm an engineer dealing with fluid mechanics among other things. If there was an issue with using 16mm tubing I wouldn't use it or be shy about saying so. I can deadhead my pump by closing a valve and still be completely fine


Hi,
Well sure you have so much restriction now times every inlet point it wouldn't be all that different blocking the entire flow off lol just jiving you man


----------



## Pilz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Well sure you have so much restriction now times every inlet point it wouldn't be all that different blocking the entire flow off lol just jiving you man


I figured as much but had to be sure. I still get suitable flow rates from each D5 of around 200L/H on the low end per the digital sensors in the Aquacomputer D5 Next. I have their physical flow sensors that return about the same flow rates within 5-10% of what the digital one says. This tells me those digital rates are accurate enough to not worry when my flow rates peak at 260L/H


----------



## ThrashZone

Pilz said:


> I figured as much but had to be sure. I still get suitable flow rates from each D5 of around 200L/H on the low end per the digital sensors in the Aquacomputer D5 Next. I have their physical flow sensors that return about the same flow rates within 5-10% of what the digital one says. This tells me those digital rates are accurate enough to not worry when my flow rates peak at 260L/H


Hi,
Yep 
It's a give and take really going into a smaller hole than exiting 
Pressure sort of works the other way 
Larger pipe into a smaller pipe creates higher pressure sort of thing.


----------



## Pilz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep
> It's a give and take really going into a smaller hole than exiting
> Pressure sort of works the other way
> Larger pipe into a smaller pipe creates higher pressure sort of thing.


Yes it does but there are no issues caused by this in builds that I've seen. I've run 16mm tubing for 4+ years now with 0 leaks or problems.


----------



## ThrashZone

Pilz said:


> Yes it does but there are no issues caused by this in builds that I've seen. I've run 16mm tubing for 4+ years now with 0 leaks or problems.


Hi,
It's not leaks I'd worry about any more than any other tubing method 
It's getting the air out of rads... with different in and out pressure but heck maybe it equalizes I don't know


----------



## Pilz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> It's not leaks I'd worry about any more than any other tubing method
> It's getting the air out of rads... with different in and out pressure but heck maybe it equalizes I don't know


I see, that's not an issue. I usually run my pumps at lower speeds to migrate air bubbles to my exhaust ports. I can usually do this within 10 min of running, then I go full speed and let the microbubbles come out over time (if any are left)I keep a pressure equalization valve in each loop alongside a manual exhaust so that helps.


----------



## tistou77

Optimus WC said:


> To clarify the ports, the Foundation and reservoir and everything but the Signature have the same distance between the ports, approx 40mm. The Signature is a little closer together. The Foundation top can be rotated in any direction (along with the cold plate) so you can adjust in/out easily.


Ok thanks, the Foundation will be mounted "by default"


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> We're working on 12mm and 90 female/female now. We relaunched only 4 months ago, so we're working like crazy to get new stuff made. Our background is aerospace fittings/components and we'll be making an entire lineup with lots of new features and quality. But we're a brand new, small company, so we're trying our best to build a full lineup as fast as we can


We all realize you are a start up. The 1/2 inch IMO is one of the least popular sizes. Most everyone either goes 12mm OD or 16mm OD from what Ive seen. 16MM is all aesthetics as in the end the G 1/4 is what dictates flow rate. So long as your ID is bigger than that its all good. 

Just light that lamp and burn the midnight oil to get things rolling. One of your biggest attributes, at least for me, is location, location, location. Id rather spend more on Made in USA and support our economy and your growth rate than our European brethren (no offense EK and watercool). I order direct from you and its here faster than what PPCs has in stock and we wont even talk about the time from order to doorstep when ordering from EK or Watercool. The only thing I try to avoid is made in China. Sometimes there isnt a choice if you want a certain product because no one else is making it or its a US (or other) based company that's outsourcing. I rep a global company and half of our product line WAS made in USA and the other half in Denmark. They went to India for a short period, what a QC nightmare that was. Now all in the Philippines. We are in the same boat as you in one aspect. We have one brand new product that we have to turn people away because even though we opened a second facility we cant keep up. Mostly due to one Giant buying up a over a $ Billion USD in that line up front right behind another Giant that just bought up just shy of that mark. Two very big names that everyone knows but Im not at liberty to divulge. We have to turn down the $200 million sales which sucks as some of those are really good customers but we cant make the machines fast enough. The large enterprise data center business is booming right now even faster than the .com boom.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah I'm glad I'm in no hurry or it would be irritating to wait for items
I got my impatient purchase out of the way with the foundation block think I can do 6 months in a head stand waiting for amd and maybe intel prices to drop


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah I'm glad I'm in no hurry or it would be irritating to wait for items
> I got my impatient purchase out of the way with the foundation block think I can do 6 months in a head stand waiting for amd and maybe intel prices to drop


agreed. 

looking forward to a peep on GPU blocks. Glad I told myself they'd take a month+ to get to me, when they said 1-2 weeks.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> agreed.
> 
> looking forward to a peep on GPU blocks. Glad I told myself they'd take a month+ to get to me, when they said 1-2 weeks.


Hi,
Heck I'm glad I skipped 2k series completely 
Bring on nvidia 3k series :thumb:


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> agreed.
> 
> looking forward to a peep on GPU blocks. Glad I told myself they'd take a month+ to get to me, when they said 1-2 weeks.


Yeah, lots of unknown unknowns with the GPUs. They've taken way longer than we would have liked. Not worth going into the details right now. We have a handful made and are starting to ship, though the manufacturing on these things is a beast and we're trying to speed it up right now.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Yeah, lots of unknown unknowns with the GPUs. They've taken way longer than we would have liked. Not worth going into the details right now. We have a handful made and are starting to ship, though the manufacturing on these things is a beast and we're trying to speed it up right now.


Hi,
Not too fast ek has plenty of bent gpu blocks


----------



## skupples

no worries. take your time. 

measure 5 times, cut once.



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Heck I'm glad I skipped 2k series completely
> Bring on nvidia 3k series :thumb:


I was on that boat until NV Experience made me think I fried my 1080tis. Luckily I paid bottom dollar for them, and the 2080ti. So i'll be essentially even once I sell the 2nd 1080ti.

i'm looking forward to that 25% over 2080ti 3080 drop, for sure. pretty sure i'll be going Titan on gen 2 RT though.


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Not too fast ek has plenty of bent gpu blocks


Lol bent blocks. Yeah no chance our block will bend, you can hide under our block during earthquakes.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> no worries. take your time.
> 
> measure 5 times, cut once.
> 
> 
> 
> I was on that boat until NV Experience made me think I fried my 1080tis. Luckily I paid bottom dollar for them, and the 2080ti. So i'll be essentially even once I sell the 2nd 1080ti.


Hi,
Pricing was tough to pass up over the holidays for sure but 2k series I just didn't feel it was a good thing to do at this late date.


----------



## skupples

most definitely agree, again. 

I'm annoyed I went thru all of that absolute bullshart, all because NV Experience wants to play Gate keeper Content Cop.

now the only thing left to do with my 2017 shield is turn it into a Switch 1.0 + home brew box, since I can no longer utilize it for streaming games to my TV on my current setup (even after upgrading to windows enterprise)


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I also had insult to injury with a titan Xp during the mining craze it was cheaper than another 1080ti or too close 
So I already wasted 1200.us on a gpu that was irrelevant after 2k series hit less than 12 months later.


----------



## skupples

my main want is returning to a proper big boy platform. I keep running into issues I've never experienced on prosumer/server grade parts. (can't call pre HEDT platforms that were high end HEDT  )

IE: 

GPU @ 90%
CPU - no core over 80%

FPS 101-105... dafuQ?!


----------



## GAN77

Hi guys!

For rockit cool Copper IHS for 9th Gen which one to choose Waterblocks?


----------



## Shawnb99

GAN77 said:


> Hi guys!
> 
> For rockit cool Copper IHS for 9th Gen which one to choose Waterblocks?


I'd suggest the Signature V2 Ultra Flat.


----------



## GAN77

Shawnb99 said:


> I'd suggest the Signature V2 Ultra Flat.


Curved and concave Intel IHS is inconvenient)


----------



## shiokarai

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Ek fittings dipped in vinegar


Mine looks exactly the same. They're really bad.


----------



## ThrashZone

shiokarai said:


> Mine looks exactly the same. They're really bad.


Hi,
Yep bad batch 
Some majority I have look just fine still.
Lost count how many I have 24 I believe in all.


----------



## shiokarai

ciarlatano said:


> ZMT is far from the best maintenance free tubing on the market. Tygon A-60-G has all of the benefits of ZMT, and has proper ID and OD so you aren't struggling with the compression fittings of your choice, or backed into using EK's lousy fittings. But, they absolutely do make some of the best D5 tops available.


Interesting, know where to get them in EU? ZMT is great for me, but will happily try something even better. Didn't have the issues with ID/OD of ZMT, but their ID/OD sizes are confusing, that's right.


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Wow, that looks great!! Well done, and super awesome to see a creative solution for our block rather than just going with another rgb block out there
> 
> Realistically, it'll be quite a while until we make any sort of led add-on. Our priority is doing the full assortment of core components. So that means blocks for all CPUs, then GPUs (incl FTW/Kingpin, Strix, big navi, xl navi, 3080ti, 4080ti, etc etc.). As well as all fittings and pump/res. Then radiators. Then cases. Then rgb gaming chairs (that's a joke).
> 
> BUT -- we could support a community 3D printed LED add-on. We'd have to think about the details, but seems doable for people that want the blinks


Do you guys have a rough roadmap/timeline on when you'll be building stuff such as radiators and cases?


----------



## Pilz

Optimus WC said:


> ThrashZone said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Not too fast ek has plenty of bent gpu blocks /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Lol bent blocks. Yeah no chance our block will bend, you can hide under our block during earthquakes.
Click to expand...

Do you have any data on your GPU block vs others even if it's preliminary and bias? My EK one runs between 35-40°C with a 20-22°C ambient temp at 2100mhz core /16.6Ghz mem (2080Ti FE)

See below pic. Flow rates on my pumps have been recalibrated since this screenshot. Also my fans, while running fast, are very quiet thankfully. At low speed they basically have 0 static pressure to push/pull air through my rads, at high speed they still aren't great but that's my one looks vs performance trade off in this build 

If I can get temps lower I can maintain my 2100mhz overclock better. The card throttles at the slightest deviation in temps from 2100mhz to 2085mhz sadly. The same is true up to 2.2ghz which needs 30°C core to run stable


----------



## Optimus WC

Pilz said:


> Do you have any data on your GPU block vs others even if it's preliminary and bias? My EK one runs between 35-40°C with a 20-22°C ambient temp at 2100mhz core /16.6Ghz mem (2080Ti FE)
> 
> See below pic. Flow rates on my pumps have been recalibrated since this screenshot. Also my fans, while running fast, are very quiet thankfully. At low speed they basically have 0 static pressure to push/pull air through my rads, at high speed they still aren't great but that's my one looks vs performance trade off in this build
> 
> If I can get temps lower I can maintain my 2100mhz overclock better. The card throttles at the slightest deviation in temps from 2100mhz to 2085mhz sadly. The same is true up to 2.2ghz which needs 30°C core to run stable


We did test this exact scenario, i'll need to check with engineering to see the numbers. 

That said, it's REALLY hard to say because of how variable those FE cards are. In our very first tests (now months ago), the best we got was 2205MHz completely stable. Don't remember temps. 

Compared to the EK block on a "bad" 2080Ti card, we saw 30MHz better improvement from lower temps on gpu and vrm power delivery. It was the diff of 2115 vs 2145 something like that. We test using a water temp regulator in a temp controlled room, so we take out nearly every variable and then do back to back to back testing so we know it's real. 

So hard to say actual performance, but like our CPUs, the harder you push them, the better they do. The new block just soaks up heat like nothing else lol

RADIATORS/CASES: Really, it's going to be a while until anything comes to the light of day. We have a lot of blocks and fittings to make first. Realistically, prob 9 months to a year before we can announce anything.


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> RADIATORS/CASES: Really, it's going to be a while until anything comes to the light of day. We have a lot of blocks and fittings to make first. Realistically, prob 9 months to a year before we can announce anything.


Cool, thanks. I'll definitely be buying a CPU block (once Zen 3 architecture comes out end of this year), and maybe a GPU block (for 3080 this summer) from you guys.

Will you also make blocks for non-Ti GPU versions from Nvidia? Or only the highest tier of cards?


----------



## Optimus WC

sakete said:


> Cool, thanks. I'll definitely be buying a CPU block (once Zen 3 architecture comes out end of this year), and maybe a GPU block (for 3080 this summer) from you guys.
> 
> Will you also make blocks for non-Ti GPU versions from Nvidia? Or only the highest tier of cards?


The plan right now is to release the reference 2080Ti, then 2080, then FTW/Kingpin 2080Ti, then Strix 2080Ti, then 5700xt. 

But that order could change if AMD or NVIDIA releases a new card  Or lots of people request something new.


----------



## JustinThyme

GAN77 said:


> Curved and concave Intel IHS is inconvenient)


What CPU is this?
I got the standard as Im not lapping my 9940X IHS or going nekked, at least not while its still under warranty.


----------



## boostedevo

Is the mounting block sold separate? Looking at the V2 Signature ultra flat


----------



## JustinThyme

boostedevo said:


> Is the mounting block sold separate? Looking at the V2 Signature ultra flat


Dont think that the block as much as it is the cold plate.


----------



## GAN77

JustinThyme said:


> What CPU is this?
> I got the standard as Im not lapping my 9940X IHS or going nekked, at least not while its still under warranty.


I9-9900K


----------



## boostedevo

JustinThyme said:


> Dont think that the block as much as it is the cold plate.



What? I see a mount listed separately but can’t seem to find if the mount is included with the waterblock.


----------



## JustinThyme

boostedevo said:


> What? I see a mount listed separately but can’t seem to find if the mount is included with the waterblock.


Yeah you are looking at interchangeable mounts for the foundation blocks. They sell the tops and the cold plates separately as well. This is all Foundation blocks. As far as I can see when you order the entire block it comes with everything you need to mount it up. I know the Sig V2 came with everything for both 2066 and 1151. 

Signature V2 is the only one I see that you can get an ultra flat cold plate.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah you are looking at interchangeable mounts for the foundation blocks. They sell the tops and the cold plates separately as well. This is all Foundation blocks. As far as I can see when you order the entire block it comes with everything you need to mount it up. I know the Sig V2 came with everything for both 2066 and 1151.
> 
> Signature V2 is the only one I see that you can get an ultra flat cold plate.


Hi,
You get yours fired up yet ?
Jp is doing pretty well on his demo block dang might change my mind on one of those 

https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-35.html#post28282088


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You get you're fired up yet ?
> Jp is doing pretty well on his demo block dang might change my mind on one of those
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-35.html#post28282088


Not yet, Drainging loop today. Ill not get when JP is getting with a chiller but good comparison between the foundation and Sig V2. They offered to send me one to test out but Im not set up for that. JP has a nice open test bed with a chiller where he can change things out in a matter of minutes. I was hoping he would get involved.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Not yet, Drainging loop today. Ill not get when JP is getting with a chiller but good comparison between the foundation and Sig V2. They offered to send me one to test out but Im not set up for that. JP has a nice open test bed with a chiller where he can change things out in a matter of minutes. I was hoping he would get involved.


Hi,
I think he said ambient I forgot to ask he did say ambient on the foundation he got but he also got a demo so I assume he's still the same.
Looks like the signatures going to be doing quite well none the less


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I think he said ambient I forgot to ask he did say ambient on the foundation he got but he also got a demo so I assume he's still the same.
> Looks like the signatures going to be doing quite well none the less


if hes running ambient must have the window open! LOL. Ive never idled at 25C unless either its winter and the window is open or summer and the AC is cranking. Window sits right behind my case and all the fresh air comes in the back where a 360 rad could be mounted but I use it for fresh air in, everything else is exhaust. Window AC in the summer and just open the window in the winter. Well at least most of the time. Last few days its been unreal in the north east US. 20-22C in JANUARY!!!! Back down a bit but still not where it usually is today at about 10C. this time of the year normal is between like -5 to 0C 

Yeah the signature has zero give or flex.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> if hes running ambient must have the window open! LOL. Ive never idled at 25C unless either its winter and the window is open or summer and the AC is cranking. Window sits right behind my case and all the fresh air comes in the back where a 360 rad could be mounted but I use it for fresh air in, everything else is exhaust. Window AC in the summer and just open the window in the winter. Well at least most of the time. Last few days its been unreal in the north east US. 20-22C in JANUARY!!!! Back down a bit but still not where it usually is today at about 10C. this time of the year normal is between like -5 to 0C
> 
> Yeah the signature has zero give or flex.


Hi,
Believe he was goofy mount here using the foundation

https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-30.html#post28275330


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Here's his first mount goofy wise

https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-25.html#post28271598


----------



## JustinThyme

I’ll have to get up with him one day if he is really in Philly. I’m right smack between Philly and NYC. Draw a line midtown to midtown then measure halfway and put a push pin in and that sheet will go through my roof!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Y'all both ride


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Lower my avx offset to 2 
Open data at 4.6 now still have 2 cores at 79c 
Ambient is 78f degrees


----------



## tistou77

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Lower my avx offset to 2
> Open data at 4.6 now still have 2 cores at 79c
> Ambient is 78f degrees


Same as before ?
I did not watch 

Otherwise, I have the impression that the lower temperatures (on the hottest cores) on the Signature v2 compared to the Foundation is due to the cold plate of the V2 ?
But the V2 does not seem more efficient in general, since cores are hotter with the V2 than with the Foundation ?


----------



## ThrashZone

tistou77 said:


> Same as before ?
> I did not watch
> 
> Otherwise, I have the impression that the lower temperatures (on the hottest cores) on the Signature v2 compared to the Foundation is due to the cold plate of the V2 ?
> But the V2 does not seem more efficient in general, since cores are hotter with the V2 than with the Foundation ?


Hi,
Not really the signature is a better heatsink being all metal than plexi foundation.


----------



## tistou77

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Not really the signature is a better heatsink being all metal than plexi foundation.


These are the observations I made on the JPM test
Some cores are warmer with the Signature V2 than with the Foundation
Certainly 2 ° hotter if I remember correctly 

But it is true that the hottest cores with the Foundation, have temperatures of 2, 3° less with the Signature


----------



## ThrashZone

tistou77 said:


> These are the observations I made on the JPM test
> Some cores are warmer with the Signature V2 than with the Foundation
> Certainly 2 ° hotter if I remember correctly
> 
> But it is true that the hottest cores with the Foundation, have temperatures of 2, 3° less with the Signature


Hi,
I just dropped my avx again now running 4.7
Still doing darn good doing the short open data now but I'll do the long or full test after 
Short gets it warmed up with BMW and classroom back to back
Long is 6 render files back to back


----------



## boostedevo

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah you are looking at interchangeable mounts for the foundation blocks. They sell the tops and the cold plates separately as well. This is all Foundation blocks. As far as I can see when you order the entire block it comes with everything you need to mount it up. I know the Sig V2 came with everything for both 2066 and 1151.
> 
> Signature V2 is the only one I see that you can get an ultra flat cold plate.


Thank you!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
AVX offset 1 running at 4.7 now with that 
Still got one core at 78c


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
4.8 all core no avx offset 1.25v though I gave it a little more just for the heck of it
One core hit 90c everything else in 80's still 10c spread


----------



## Rob w

Well @ThrashZone recommended the optimus to me so ordered one last week, 
I am in the process of rebuilding from rampage vi extreme to the Omega and all my cooling is ek dual loop,
Anyway my monoblock won’t fit so went for the foundation after checking it out ie;Web site and reading all 986 posts on here.
Got to say I am even More keen to get my hands on one and on my delided i9-7980xe using Lm, will be testing soon as I get it,
I didn’t see any problems ordering but now I read they are possibly having delays to eu, I’m in the UK so hoping won’t have a problem, after all I got used to waiting, or should I say I’ve come to expect it for the release of every component in this rig.
Hope optimus arrives soon.
EDIT,,
Whilst typing this I received conformation email it’s been shipped :thumb:
Thankyou Optimus:specool:


----------



## ThrashZone

Rob w said:


> Well @ThrashZone recommended the optimus to me so ordered one last week,
> I am in the process of rebuilding from rampage vi extreme to the Omega and all my cooling is ek dual loop,
> Anyway my monoblock won’t fit so went for the foundation after checking it out ie;Web site and reading all 986 posts on here.
> Got to say I am even More keen to get my hands on one and on my delided i9-7980xe using Lm, will be testing soon as I get it,
> I didn’t see any problems ordering but now I read they are possibly having delays to eu, I’m in the UK so hoping won’t have a problem, after all I got used to waiting, or should I say I’ve come to expect it for the release of every component in this rig.
> Hope optimus arrives soon.


Hi,
Might actually go for the signature it's showing it shines Jp using it he's posted lots of tests using foundation and signature or at least a demo of it actually looks like a foundation demo just solid top instead of plexi :/
Pick it up from here not as long as this thread by any means 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-25.html#post28271598


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, to clear up Signature vs foundation: 

-Signature will have 2-3c better performance over Foundation in XOC scenarios. In everyday usage, the performance is very similar. 
-All our blocks use the same cold plate, including the upcoming GPU. (Though threadripper will use the XL version of our cold plate)
-The Signature performs better because there is zero flex in the block, not necessarily because it acts as a heatsink. It's possible some extra heat is wicked away by the block, but the real performance has to do with the precision of the compression of the CPU to the cold plate.
-The profile of the Signature internals and structure is different and tailored specifically for the latest "tall" consumer and HEDT Intel CPUs. While the Foundation is slightly different for more general performance. 
-The latest gen of CPUs are weird, results can vary quite a bit depending on tim spread, tightening, etc (as JPM found).
-So not super surprising to see strange individual core counts on 18 core CPU. There are so, so, so many variables in XOC situations, especially with latest CPUs.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah Jp said the signature weighs a ton


----------



## Diffident

skupples said:


> ok now that's just vomit overload. I'm sorry, but that CROSSES THAT GOSH DERN LINE!
> 
> uhg, I spent 2 hours reading about bias lighting earlier today & never came a conclusion. Should I spend $70 on the dynamic kit that syncs to your screen via a camera that dumps into a little pi box? or should I just get the $10 6K kelvin strip & call it a day.
> 
> then I got stuck trying to wrap my mind around how its still possible for Philips to have a stranglehold on the high end RGB market -.-



Here is a DIY guide from Adafruit. Adalight DIY Ambient Lighting


----------



## skupples

that's awesome! I knew a cameraless solution had to exist, also hello door into arduino world. Those Hue rip off $70 USB device + LED strip + camera bundles on amazon look sketch af.

arduino complete starter kit, 1x strip, etc ordered. (they made me do math, by only listing distance between LEDs & # of LEDs, but not actual length)


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah Jp said the signature weighs a ton


It’s got some weight to it. I’ll see if I can weigh it out against the HK IV pro.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> It’s got some weight to it. I’ll see if I can weigh it out against the HK IV pro.


Hi,
Thanks I have no way to weigh something like that


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Thanks I have no way to weigh something like that


Kitchen scale. Might not be down to a scientific troy ounce but close enough. Honestly when the propaganda said the top is milled from a 3 lb block of solid brass I was expecting a bit more than what it is. Its beefy for sure but far from atrocious. Id say they milled away 80% of that 3 lbs. Ive had some old school all solid copper blocks that have weighed more.

Or I can run to downtown Newark and find a DD, I'm sure they have scales. Might get my azz shot but atleast Ill know how much these blocks weigh down the the precise gram. 




skupples said:


> that's awesome! I knew a cameraless solution had to exist, also hello door into arduino world. Those Hue rip off $70 USB device + LED strip + camera bundles on amazon look sketch af.
> 
> arduino complete starter kit, 1x strip, etc ordered. (they made me do math, by only listing distance between LEDs & # of LEDs, but not actual length)


Yeah that Hue crap is just that, crap. That was the very first thing I tried and it wasnt connected for 24 hours. Want one? Send me your address LOL. Thats if it didnt make it into the crapper. Some items I save for my wall of shame to remind me of paths to never go down again. 3 of them are EK mono blocks. First one for the M8E board that when installed bent the corners up on my brand new 7700K. I was able to salvage it with just setting it on a flat surface and weights on the corners and leave it sit for a week. That was an engineering blunder on their part as Id doubt Intel screwed anything up THAT bad. EK Support "You over tightened the screws"! There is no way to blunder the installation. Set height on the posts, goes through board and If anything I was worried about it being too loose as its posts to motherboard PCB then screws to the PCB on the other side. If I over tightened it would have cracked the PCB. I could add a few more, they are all EK with only a few old school Koolance that the corrosion was so bad that barbs could not be removed from fittings. The corrosion welded that crap together. Last time I touched anything Koolance.


----------



## Optimus WC

Our Optimus Signature Intel (http://bit.ly/35YJyGa) starts off as 3.25lbs.


----------



## vagrant

Optimus WC said:


> Our Optimus Signature Intel (http://bit.ly/35YJyGa) starts off as 3.25lbs.



Hey Optimus,

Just a random question but where does your stuff ship from? Does it ship out of Chicago?


----------



## JustinThyme

vagrant said:


> Hey Optimus,
> 
> Just a random question but where does your stuff ship from? Does it ship out of Chicago?


If you order direct it ships from that general area. PPCs carries some of their gear now, order from them and it ships from Melbourne Fla.


----------



## Optimus WC

vagrant said:


> Hey Optimus,
> 
> Just a random question but where does your stuff ship from? Does it ship out of Chicago?


Yes, it ships from Chicago. Technically, greater Chicagoland area, not downtown Gotham City.


----------



## Ricey20

Still waiting on PPCS to ship out an order from December.


----------



## vagrant

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, it ships from Chicago. Technically, greater Chicagoland area, not downtown Gotham City.


Awesome thanks!

Any ETA on your 2080ti block?



JustinThyme said:


> If you order direct it ships from that general area. PPCs carries some of their gear now, order from them and it ships from Melbourne Fla.


They are sold out of any relevant Optimus parts for me personally. But either way I'm in Eastern Iowa.


----------



## JustinThyme

OK drain and tear down commenced this morning. A lot to do yet. Put new HK blocks with back plates on Strix 2080Tis. Those are back in the case. 

Installed distro but no plumbing done yet. 3 new 1TB Samsung 860 evos installed and wired up. Couldn’t pass up a $99 each flash deal over the holidays. 

HK IV pro removed and I was right, needed repaired regardless. Wife has hidden my little kitchen scale so no way to weigh them. Crack dealer in Newark didn’t look happy when I asked to borrow his scales for just a minute. The Optimus block feels a little heavier than the solid copper HK Pro IV. Not by much. Old school flat piece of wood balanced on round pencil and then blocks placed up tipped to the Optimus side. 

The body of the Optimus is noticeably taller. The cold plate dimensions of the HK is actually just a little bigger length and width, Optimus block is thicker. It’s easy to peer through the ports without disassembly to see the channels in the Optimus are cut as advertised and cut longer. 

Thrash there is no way to use the HK screws to mount the signature. They are too fat to insert into the holes and the height of the mount is a good bit different. The top is the HK Pro IV will actually sit under the bottom of the Optimus. 

The mounting kit that comes with the signature is fairly substantial. Only one thing missing, a flat washer to go between the spring and the top of the mount. I’ll put a skinny one in there. 

The cold plate finish on the Optimus signature is smooth and shiny, my preference. Much better than the HK where although smooth the machine marks can be seen. Doing this from IPhone, I’ll try and put up comparison pics of the two.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
You should use that iphone more often lots of paragraphs easy to follow


----------



## originxt

Considering buying the signature v2 but it's pretty pricy. I have some leftover Conductonaut, think it is worth it for the 10980xe for the pro-xe nickel? And is there a known discount code? 

Currently have the heatkiller iv pro.


----------



## oreonutz

So, asked BPS Customs If he heard about Optimus today during his live stream. He is still streaming, so don't have a time stamp yet, but clipped it, if anyone is curious. Confirmation that the recent article about EKWB being aware of "another company on the market claiming to make higher performing products" is indeed about Optimus.


----------



## JustinThyme

@ThrashZone......Bite ME!

Got a little more done. Not much though. Painted the Nvlink flat black, been bugging me from day one when I went vertical with the GPUs. No one sells a 2 slot NVlink Bridge, all 3 and 4 but took a chance and the Quadro RTX 6000 2 slot works perfectly. Only thing is is silver and green...doesnt go in my case so thats drying while im in my basement mancave with M$ Surface.

Installed 2 slot bridge for HK GPU blocks instead of two pipes in between.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Considering buying the signature v2 but it's pretty pricy. I have some leftover Conductonaut, think it is worth it for the 10980xe for the pro-xe nickel? And is there a known discount code?
> 
> Currently have the heatkiller iv pro.


Hi,
Performance pc has ocn discount codes and they were selling optimus products a month ago I guess.
10% off when that happened. I do not remember the discount code OCN55 I believe is everyday 5%
https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...imus-signature-v2-intel-cpu-block-copper.html


----------



## Pilz

originxt said:


> Considering buying the signature v2 but it's pretty pricy. I have some leftover Conductonaut, think it is worth it for the 10980xe for the pro-xe nickel? And is there a known discount code?
> 
> Currently have the heatkiller iv pro.


You're using a 10980XE and asking about a discount... 

While beneficial to use a better block, it depends on how bad your temps are right with that space heater

My former 9900K at 5.3Ghz pulled ~300W alone which effectively with my 2080Ti could heat my house


----------



## JustinThyme

Block mounted, that was a bear.
Bit of advice for those using X299 anyhow.....

Do not screw mounting studs in all the way, just get a few threads in before attempting to put on springs and nuts. Its difficult to get the first one to catch then impossible unless maybe you have everything laying flat. Had to remove, redo TIM then start over. Easy when done with posts only started a few threads in.


----------



## TomiKazi

I have emailed about this but wanted to ask here as well. My block has been "on its way" to Europe since December 5th. Paid $44 shipping costs for a $109 product. I kinda want it very soon. I don't want to sound like a dick but I have no idea what to expect.


----------



## originxt

Pilz said:


> You're using a 10980XE and asking about a discount...
> 
> While beneficial to use a better block, it depends on how bad your temps are right with that space heater
> 
> My former 9900K at 5.3Ghz pulled ~300W alone which effectively with my 2080Ti could heat my house



Even if you have the money, always be looking for bargains . Savings are savings, regardless of income levels.

Temps are bad comparative to others with the same processor and the same clock speeds. It's mostly the core spread that worries me, over 20c+, between the hottest and coldest core. I'm just hoping a different block might help reduce the delta.


----------



## Pilz

originxt said:


> Even if you have the money, always be looking for bargains . Savings are savings, regardless of income levels.
> 
> Temps are bad comparative to others with the same processor and the same clock speeds. It's mostly the core spread that worries me, over 20c+, between the hottest and coldest core. I'm just hoping a different block might help reduce the delta.


While I don't disagree fully, for smaller companies I try supporting them. It's best to keep the little guys who make better products in business 

Sounds typical for intel, even my 3900X on a ****ty EK block isn't that bad.

My 9900K did 5.2Ghz all core at 1.35V, 5.3Ghz all core at 1.4V, then 5.4Ghz all core at 1.5V. Anything around 1.4V generated so much heat my Bitspower Monoblock paired to a 480mm*60mm rad in push-pull couldn't keep it cool. Fluid temps were excellent but the block couldn't pull the heat away fast enough. I'd see 100C running CB R15/20 easily at 300W+


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
If someone already had a heatkiller 4 pro in use the optimus foundation might not be all that enticing at 120.us plus tax/ shipping for 3-5c cooler and a tighter core temp spread so deal would be a good thing
Like I said they did have a 10% deal on PPC offering it I just don't remember the discount code scroll back a ways it's still there I'm sure.

If they already rotated the HK both directions normal and goofy and didn't see any difference that would be suspicious because i did and it wasn't a little bit of difference either there is a clear rotation preference the 9940x likes.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-59.html#post28261118

Foundation and signature are exotic but HK 4 pro really doesn't have anything better 
Signature well it sure looks to be better than foundation according to Jp's testing but also very exotic in price at 170.us+....


----------



## originxt

Anyone know if the Mayhem X1 is ok with the block? If so, I'm just going to put in an order.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Anyone know if the Mayhem X1 is ok with the block? If so, I'm just going to put in an order.


Hi,
Better be x1 clear is what I'm using.


----------



## originxt

Placed an order for the nickle plated signature V2. Excited to see if it makes a big difference in my deltas over the hk 4 pro.


----------



## Ashcroft

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Ek fittings dipped in vinegar



Bistpower Nickel also dipped in vinegar. Corrosives corrode.


----------



## Despotes

Ricey20 said:


> Still waiting on PPCS to ship out an order from December.


Wow. I thought still waiting for the Foundation I ordered direct from Optimus 1/7 was bad. Communication is not so great. I'd like to just cancel my order and get something else, but my luck it'll be available the next day.


----------



## ThrashZone

TomiKazi said:


> I have emailed about this but wanted to ask here as well. My block has been "on its way" to Europe since December 5th. Paid $44 shipping costs for a $109 product. I kinda want it very soon. I don't want to sound like a dick but I have no idea what to expect.


Hi,
Customs must be having issues ? @Optimus WC
You can Private message the above user with order number....


----------



## Krisztias

Ashcroft said:


> Bistpower Nickel also dipped in vinegar. Corrosives corrode.


Yes, nickel plated blocks/fittings don't like vinegar... no matter if it's Bitspower or EK or ...


----------



## ThrashZone

Krisztias said:


> Yes, nickel plated blocks/fittings don't like vinegar... no matter if it's Bitspower or EK or ...


Hi,
Well the vinegar only shows flaws in the nickle it didn't cause the issue.
I don't use it to actually clean a loop like some have said to dilute with distilled water for cleaning rads.


----------



## ciarlatano

Ashcroft said:


> Bistpower Nickel also dipped in vinegar. Corrosives corrode.


Papaya also dipped in vinegar. Tasty treats are tasty.


----------



## Pilz

*I'd like to thank OptimusWC for their excellent communication and products*

I received my Foundation yesterday and so far it's been great!

Packaging/Contents:
I like the simple black box with their logo on it. Granted it was a little dirty but that doesn't take away from the product inside. I was pleasantly surprised to see Optimus throw in 2x hardline/2x soft tubing fittings alongside a short piece of 12mm tubing to showcase their craftsmanship. Inside the box, there's the typical foam to keep things in place with mounting hardware, instructional diagram, and some thermal paste.

Unlike BP, their fittings have resealable bags which makes opening them a lot easier!

The mounting hardware is simple and well made with no springs needed (this is the first block I've seen outside of monoblocks not use any)

Fittings: The hardline compression fittings are very nice featuring what is best described as a sandblasted finish. There's a 3mm thick squared off (not rounded-edged) O-ring which gives things a sturdy fit. The tubing did still exhibit a little bit of play when installed, but it was very marginal. Optimus also had an 8mm Allen key (made in the USA!) for fitting installation. They're very confident in the products to encourage torquing these down into their blocks! Each fitting has a hex pattern inside to make installation/removable easier. The only issue I see is in their outer compressional pieces are smooth which might pose an issue if something gets stuck down the road. Overall I'd say their quality is top-notch! There's no finish to wear over time since the material appears to be bare metal giving a clean look.

I didn't test the soft compression fitting with tubing yet. Overall it's very similar to the hardline while being a little bit taller and slightly different hue. I suspect they're made from a different metal or have another finishing process. Quality remains excellent as with the hardline fittings. All of the threads were smooth and featured a coarser spacing which is beneficial. 

Installation/Appearance:

My block had a little dirt inside when I got it which was promptly flushed with distilled water. Materials are excellent, the whole block feels very solid and leaves no doubt as to the durability. Their cold plate is the cleanest I've ever seen! If you want a pocket mirror just use the cold plate because it's perfect! You can see the difference between my EK Velocity in the pictures just to showcase how well they polish/finish compared to the fallen giant.

The spacing of the terminals is ideal for Ryzen 3000, you can see how far EK's is away from the chiplets which partly accounts for why their performance doesn't stack up to the Foundation. Fins are extremely dense resulting in lower flowrates (see pictures) without hurting cooling performance. I suspect this block has a high-pressure drop compared to others if that matters to you. The cooling area is greatly increased compared to my HK IV/EK Velocity. I haven't fully tested the block yet, in fact, I only did a temporary tubing run to this block so I could get it installed. I plan on redoing my tubing runs so they're cleaner this weekend. 

I'm not a fan of the mounting hardware, no backplate is included for their method. The washers they include are very small and barely big enough to cover the holes in my X570 Aorus Xtreme. As for the back screw (on the other end of the post) they're pretty thick and almost caused clearance issues with my Lian Li 011 Dynamic XL. I recommend laying your board flat to install this block so you can ensure things are tightened down correctly.

Performance: 

I only did some brief testing (Cinebench) then played some Apex; the thermal data is only preliminary. I will try doing some more testing this weekend if time permits and follow up. Please see the below screenshots from Aquasuite/HWInfo. I had voltage set to Auto which you shouldn't do because it basically sits at 1.45V+ constantly. I need to lock it back to 1.375V/ and play with things more. These charts will not be an accurate depiction of things for that reason aside from the CB runs I did. There's a 2C differential in ambient temp, so add 2C to the coolant temps, otherwise, the GPU/CPU should remain constant because a 2C delta in fluid temp doesn't really make a difference per extensive testing in my set up. My CPU is running a single 360mm radiator (HW Labs GTS) while the GPU has a 360mm HW Labs SR2 + EK SE360. Both have an AquaComputer D5 Next pump. D5 Flow rates are accurate within 10L/H per testing with my physical AC meters. Notice the huge drop in the CPU flow rates with the new block. I even recalibrated my pump to be sure it wasn't a mistake. Temps will be much lower once I set the VCore in my BIOS so expect more charts soon!

If you look at the pic details you can see what's what.

All pictures here: *https://imgur.com/a/SWSKB8D*


----------



## skupples

another week without a gpu tracker


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep not any escape routes on the optimus 
The center o-ring keeps water flow going through the cooling fins so make darn sure you have clean/ filtered liquid !!!!!!!

EK/.. has all sorts of other routes the water can go and water tends to go the least restrictive route.


----------



## Kana Chan

Does that hex design decrease flow?


----------



## ThrashZone

Kana Chan said:


> Does that hex design decrease flow?


Hi,
Don't know about the hex bit but the flow is likely restrictive a little seeing all fluid has to go through the cooling fins

So restrictive but better cooling performance.


----------



## vagrant

Wow it looks great. Only thing holding me back from switching to this block is not knowing when their GPU blocks will go out.


----------



## Pilz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Don't know about the hex bit but the flow is likely restrictive a little seeing all fluid has to go through the cooling fins
> 
> So restrictive but better cooling performance.


That's correct, even with a higher VCore, lower flow rate etc my average temps are 7C lower in that reference. I'm sure once I do more testing it'll be withing 4-5C on average.


----------



## Richforbroke

Pilz said:


> *I'd like to thank OptimusWC for their excellent communication and products*
> 
> I received my Foundation yesterday and so far it's been great!


Thanks for your review/post! I'm still eagerly waiting on the exact CPU block. Ordered 1/7/2020. Seems like they are backed up on orders. How long did it take before you received your order?


----------



## shiokarai

I'm itching to get one Signature V2 and replace my Hetakiller IV Pro Intel BUT $194 + shipping to EU + customs and VAT (20+% to the price) makes is basically close to $300 block...not really encouraging for something like 2-3 degrees better cooling? Tough one. Then the Foundation.. which is somehow worse than Signature V2 BUT using the same cold plate? ***?


----------



## ThrashZone

shiokarai said:


> I'm itching to get one Signature V2 and replace my Hetakiller IV Pro Intel BUT $194 + shipping to EU + customs and VAT (20+% to the price) makes is basically close to $300 block...not really encouraging for something like 2-3 degrees better cooling? Tough one. Then the Foundation.. which is somehow worse than Signature V2 BUT using the same cold plate? ***?


Hi,
Foundation was only 3 celsius degrees better at 4.5 and 1.24v for me at open data long test

I never did 4.8 at 1.25v with No AVX offset on heatkiller 4 pro because it was too hot in blender open data long test 

Foundation at that clock was impressive though hottest core 90c package still at 89c and core spread still within 10c difference :thumb:
So at all core 48 foundation is actually better by a wider margin at that clock
https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=318886&d=1579034115


----------



## poah

shiokarai said:


> I'm itching to get one Signature V2 and replace my Hetakiller IV Pro Intel BUT $194 + shipping to EU + customs and VAT (20+% to the price) makes is basically close to $300 block...not really encouraging for something like 2-3 degrees better cooling? Tough one. Then the Foundation.. which is somehow worse than Signature V2 BUT using the same cold plate? ***?



they are meant to be setting up EU distribution so just wait.


----------



## tistou77

@Optimus WC

Any idea of product availability in Europe ?


----------



## skupples

looks like marketing bro is knees deep

it's officially been the extra two weeks i applied to their twooooo weeeeeeks. 

 

no worries though. My dynamic RGB kit is starting to show up, & I need to learn how to use this fancy Hakko. I've been using the same Radioshack iron for a decade+. I ended up grabbing a comprehensive Arduino kit, instead of just the uno.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah doubt vacation 
Absent here for a little while so you can be sure it's knee deep can't rule out snow but leaning towards production issues


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys!

We upgraded our equipment over a few days to handle the increase in orders (why we've been radio silent). But all Foundation and GPU backorders shipping this week! Threadripper is still TBD, but getting much closer. Stock product takes priority for production, thus why the pushback for other products. But starting next week, we'll be at 100% production for everything  

VINEGAR: We've soaked our nickel in vinegar for over a week with no flaking, just typical slight darkening. If electrolytic (aka electroplated) nickel touches vinegar, it'll get trashed. Only marine/professional grade nickel is fine.


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah doubt vacation
> Absent here for a little while so you can be sure it's knee deep can't rule out snow but leaning towards production issues


Yeah, definitely just caught up with production, but we can be sure he is never far from these forums, I am sure he will pop in soon. I know EU Distribution was something they were in the process of working out, so just hang on to your hats guys, he will have you covered soon.

EDIT: Just now realized he posted right before me... :doh:


----------



## Pilz

Richforbroke said:


> Thanks for your review/post! I'm still eagerly waiting on the exact CPU block. Ordered 1/7/2020. Seems like they are backed up on orders. How long did it take before you received your order?


It took about 5-6 days in total. What combination did you get


----------



## Pilz

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> We upgraded our equipment over a few days to handle the increase in orders (why we've been radio silent). But all Foundation and GPU backorders shipping this week! Threadripper is still TBD, but getting much closer. Stock product takes priority for production, thus why the pushback for other products. But starting next week, we'll be at 100% production for everything
> 
> VINEGAR: We've soaked our nickel in vinegar for over a week with no flaking, just typical slight darkening. If electrolytic (aka electroplated) nickel touches vinegar, it'll get trashed. Only marine/professional grade nickel is fine.


Can you post a picture?


----------



## Richforbroke

Pilz said:


> Richforbroke said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your review/post! I'm still eagerly waiting on the exact CPU block. Ordered 1/7/2020. Seems like they are backed up on orders. How long did it take before you received your order?
> 
> 
> 
> It took about 5-6 days in total. What combination did you get
Click to expand...

AMD Foundation Acrylic/Satin Aluminum


----------



## qes27

Optimus WC said:


> Threadripper is still TBD, but getting much closer.


Curious, when you say closer, do you mean like a week or two, or like a month or two? Do you expect to fill all outstanding orders initially, or will they be trickling out? Not trying to hold you to anything, just hoping to get an idea of the scale of the wait remaining for someone who pre-ordered a couple weeks ago.


----------



## vagrant

Are there any actual pictures of the GPU block being used? I have never seen one.


----------



## skupples

WooT



vagrant said:


> Are there any actual pictures of the GPU block being used? I have never seen one.


not sure of anyone else around here waiting for one aside from me.

outside of that. Optimus has posted his show room build a few times.


They're thick, but I really don't mind that in this part of life. N the big NO ISLANDS (FTW!!!) V looks dope. It would be a good sideways block for a Borderlands Vault Hunter build.


----------



## vagrant

But like...is there anywhere to actually see the block being used? If I have to use my imagination on what it actually looks like can I preorder with an imaginary credit card?


----------



## oreonutz

vagrant said:


> But like...is there anywhere to actually see the block being used? If I have to use my imagination on what it actually looks like can I preorder with an imaginary credit card?


I'd love to see a Picture of you installing it in your imaginary build, lol!


----------



## skupples

vagrant said:


> But like...is there anywhere to actually see the block being used? If I have to use my imagination on what it actually looks like can I preorder with an imaginary credit card?


like I said... OPTIMUS has posted some stuff of their show room build, which uses ALL of their components. sort pages by 100, ctrl+F, OPTIMUS, and you should find it pretty quickly. it's been posted multiple times. might even be in the OP

otherwise, no. not that i've seen. It's still pre-release, as you highlighted.

i assume more footage will start showing up in the next week or two, as they're supposed to start shipping this week.


----------



## JustinThyme

Pilz said:


> *I'd like to thank OptimusWC for their excellent communication and products*
> 
> I received my Foundation yesterday and so far it's been great!
> 
> Packaging/Contents:
> I like the simple black box with their logo on it. Granted it was a little dirty but that doesn't take away from the product inside. I was pleasantly surprised to see Optimus throw in 2x hardline/2x soft tubing fittings alongside a short piece of 12mm tubing to showcase their craftsmanship. Inside the box, there's the typical foam to keep things in place with mounting hardware, instructional diagram, and some thermal paste.
> 
> Unlike BP, their fittings have resealable bags which makes opening them a lot easier!
> 
> The mounting hardware is simple and well made with no springs needed (this is the first block I've seen outside of monoblocks not use any)
> 
> Fittings: The hardline compression fittings are very nice featuring what is best described as a sandblasted finish. There's a 3mm thick squared off (not rounded-edged) O-ring which gives things a sturdy fit. The tubing did still exhibit a little bit of play when installed, but it was very marginal. Optimus also had an 8mm Allen key (made in the USA!) for fitting installation. They're very confident in the products to encourage torquing these down into their blocks! Each fitting has a hex pattern inside to make installation/removable easier. The only issue I see is in their outer compressional pieces are smooth which might pose an issue if something gets stuck down the road. Overall I'd say their quality is top-notch! There's no finish to wear over time since the material appears to be bare metal giving a clean look.
> 
> I didn't test the soft compression fitting with tubing yet. Overall it's very similar to the hardline while being a little bit taller and slightly different hue. I suspect they're made from a different metal or have another finishing process. Quality remains excellent as with the hardline fittings. All of the threads were smooth and featured a coarser spacing which is beneficial.
> 
> Installation/Appearance:
> 
> My block had a little dirt inside when I got it which was promptly flushed with distilled water. Materials are excellent, the whole block feels very solid and leaves no doubt as to the durability. Their cold plate is the cleanest I've ever seen! If you want a pocket mirror just use the cold plate because it's perfect! You can see the difference between my EK Velocity in the pictures just to showcase how well they polish/finish compared to the fallen giant.
> 
> The spacing of the terminals is ideal for Ryzen 3000, you can see how far EK's is away from the chiplets which partly accounts for why their performance doesn't stack up to the Foundation. Fins are extremely dense resulting in lower flowrates (see pictures) without hurting cooling performance. I suspect this block has a high-pressure drop compared to others if that matters to you. The cooling area is greatly increased compared to my HK IV/EK Velocity. I haven't fully tested the block yet, in fact, I only did a temporary tubing run to this block so I could get it installed. I plan on redoing my tubing runs so they're cleaner this weekend.
> 
> I'm not a fan of the mounting hardware, no backplate is included for their method. The washers they include are very small and barely big enough to cover the holes in my X570 Aorus Xtreme. As for the back screw (on the other end of the post) they're pretty thick and almost caused clearance issues with my Lian Li 011 Dynamic XL. I recommend laying your board flat to install this block so you can ensure things are tightened down correctly.
> 
> Performance:
> 
> I only did some brief testing (Cinebench) then played some Apex; the thermal data is only preliminary. I will try doing some more testing this weekend if time permits and follow up. Please see the below screenshots from Aquasuite/HWInfo. I had voltage set to Auto which you shouldn't do because it basically sits at 1.45V+ constantly. I need to lock it back to 1.375V/ and play with things more. These charts will not be an accurate depiction of things for that reason aside from the CB runs I did. There's a 2C differential in ambient temp, so add 2C to the coolant temps, otherwise, the GPU/CPU should remain constant because a 2C delta in fluid temp doesn't really make a difference per extensive testing in my set up. My CPU is running a single 360mm radiator (HW Labs GTS) while the GPU has a 360mm HW Labs SR2 + EK SE360. Both have an AquaComputer D5 Next pump. D5 Flow rates are accurate within 10L/H per testing with my physical AC meters. Notice the huge drop in the CPU flow rates with the new block. I even recalibrated my pump to be sure it wasn't a mistake. Temps will be much lower once I set the VCore in my BIOS so expect more charts soon!
> 
> If you look at the pic details you can see what's what.
> 
> All pictures here: *https://imgur.com/a/SWSKB8D*


I feel slighted now. I bought their TOL siggy V2 and didn’t get any fittings!



Kana Chan said:


> Does that hex design decrease flow?


If you look at the ID of any G1/4 fitting that IMO is the restricting for for any loop. Don’t have one of those to measure but standard G1/4 is 10mm ID.


----------



## skupples

some crappy 90s n 45s have bores smaller than the g1/4 too.


----------



## skupples

oh, you'll also find aquasuite expires every 5 years I think it was? It does this via a serial check i think. you'll eventually be forced to re-license before being allowed to flash & upgrade.


----------



## Optimus WC

Here's the Optimus Absolute GPU block being tested on the RTX Titan right this very moment  

Our GPU preorder page has more pics and info: https://optimuspc.com/products/absolute-gpu-block-rtx-2080-ti

The final GPU block (as seen on the Titan, via phone camera), shows the new gasket design. and overall just looks better. 

For Threadripper, we should start shipping in a week or two. All Threadripper backorders will ship in roughly the same time frame, though the copper versions will ship a few days before the nickel cold plate ones. 

And we'll throw some stuff in vinegar and takes some pics.


----------



## JustinThyme

I’m still working on my install/reconfigure/annual maintenance. 

I ordered up an alphacool 480 cross flow but it just too long, going back. It just barely fits in the top of an Enthoo Elite putting the connectors right up against the walls both sides. Just can’t do a correct build with it so just going a slightly different route with what I already have. 

I’m pulling the 360 in the front as that wasn’t getting much air flow with fans mounted between front cover and chassis and reversing the 480 in the roof. Canning push pull top and bottom and going push from outside in and then a 4 120 mm fans exhausting the front. 

If that doesn’t go over well I’ll reverse the air flow on all but that puts the ugly side of the fans showing in case front. If I need more rad I have a 280 I can add between the basement and top compartment that will have better air flow than I got with the 360 in the front. Hopefully the 2x 480s will cover it. I never saw max fan rpms on auto control before with an added 360. Only when I manually ran them up for max flow while pushing it for benches. 

Haven’t gotten anything done as work took priority last few days. 12-14 hour shifts. OT will more than pay for my siggy V2


----------



## skupples

#hyped


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Here's the Optimus Absolute GPU block being tested on the RTX Titan right this very moment
> 
> Our GPU preorder page has more pics and info: https://optimuspc.com/products/absolute-gpu-block-rtx-2080-ti
> 
> The final GPU block (as seen on the Titan, via phone camera), shows the new gasket design. and overall just looks better.
> 
> For Threadripper, we should start shipping in a week or two. All Threadripper backorders will ship in roughly the same time frame, though the copper versions will ship a few days before the nickel cold plate ones.
> 
> And we'll throw some stuff in vinegar and takes some pics.


As @skupples Said, I am So #HYPED!
@Optimus WC - In your internal testing, have you noticed an increase in thermal performance with your GPU Blocks vs the competition? Or will these be more or less on par with the competition? I am thinking I am going to Bite on one for a Clients 2080 coming up here in about a month, but would love to know if I can also claim a performance benefit for choosing your GPU block over the EK one that is currently on my Proposal.


----------



## Optimus WC

oreonutz said:


> As @skupples Said, I am So #HYPED!
> 
> @Optimus WC - In your internal testing, have you noticed an increase in thermal performance with your GPU Blocks vs the competition? Or will these be more or less on par with the competition? I am thinking I am going to Bite on one for a Clients 2080 coming up here in about a month, but would love to know if I can also claim a performance benefit for choosing your GPU block over the EK one that is currently on my Proposal.


YES! First off, the reliability is vastly better, especially for client builds. Zero cracking, zero leaching o-rings, etc. The blocks that have screw threads into plastic are begging for cracks. Our gasket takes like two seconds to install, no struggling with o-rings. Simplified mounting, super easy servicing, and it looks awesome 

For performance, GPUs are really dependent on a number of factors. Yes, our block performs the best, though it's in overclocking scenarios where you can squeeze out a few degrees lower and, thus, 30MHz higher frequency. BUT, big caveat, it really depends on the quality of the GPU die. With our block and average cooling, you'll hit the card's peek potential immediately. Our cooling on the power delivery and RAM is noticeably better, as well. So you can tweak performance all over the place, especially with the custom bios. But, as a simple metric, the best we've gotten on a reference 2080Ti out of the box is 2205MHz with just moving sliders. But not every card can do that. 

So it'll be hard to say exactly what performance gain you'll see vs other water blocks. But aside from the massive improvement in reliability and serviceability, if there is extra performance to be had, our block will find it


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> YES! First off, the reliability is vastly better, especially for client builds. Zero cracking, zero leaching o-rings, etc. The blocks that have screw threads into plastic are begging for cracks. Our gasket takes like two seconds to install, no struggling with o-rings. Simplified mounting, super easy servicing, and it looks awesome
> 
> For performance, GPUs are really dependent on a number of factors. Yes, our block performs the best, though it's in overclocking scenarios where you can squeeze out a few degrees lower and, thus, 30MHz higher frequency. BUT, big caveat, it really depends on the quality of the GPU die. With our block and average cooling, you'll hit the card's peek potential immediately. Our cooling on the power delivery and RAM is noticeably better, as well. So you can tweak performance all over the place, especially with the custom bios. But, as a simple metric, the best we've gotten on a reference 2080Ti out of the box is 2205MHz with just moving sliders. But not every card can do that.
> 
> So it'll be hard to say exactly what performance gain you'll see vs other water blocks. But aside from the massive improvement in reliability and serviceability, if there is extra performance to be had, our block will find it


That is awesome to know! Thank you, I appreciate that. This card is a decent overclocker, but unfortunately this client is not into me squeezing every last drop out of the card, they just want the best performance they can get, but without ever having to reset over weird issues, so I tend to find the Max I can squeeze out of their components and then dial back about 100Mhz, which has worked well in the past, probably what I will do here as well. But that extra reliability, he will eat that up, thats exactly what I was looking for. Thank You! I will probably be ordering after a lot of these guys, but I will be ordering one, this is for a different client, this one is a streamer.

Appreciate your engagement as always!


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

I'm curious to see some comparisons on the same cards with their Turing block compared to the others like Heatkiller and Aqua Computer. Words are great, but data is even better


----------



## Optimus WC

Right on!  

And here's a taste of the Absolute Threadripper 3+ block. This is a true copper mirror. It's machined like this, no buffing or anything, just obscene micron level finishing. It's super hard to do. Typically nickel is used to cover up machining marks and get that mirror effect. But doing a real copper mirror is an entirely different story. We're super proud of this


----------



## vagrant

skupples said:


> vagrant said:
> 
> 
> 
> But like...is there anywhere to actually see the block being used? If I have to use my imagination on what it actually looks like can I preorder with an imaginary credit card?
> 
> 
> 
> like I said... OPTIMUS has posted some stuff of their show room build, which uses ALL of their components. sort pages by 100, ctrl+F, OPTIMUS, and you should find it pretty quickly. it's been posted multiple times. might even be in the OP
> 
> otherwise, no. not that i've seen. It's still pre-release, as you highlighted.
> 
> i assume more footage will start showing up in the next week or two, as they're supposed to start shipping this week.
Click to expand...

Yeah I’ve seen the pics with the opaque white coolant back when they were first.

I was hopping to see more pics of different variations. You have a ton of different options choosing between copper/nickel/acetal but even on their page they just show the acrylic and full copper block.

As I have no desire in a raw copper cold or mid plate


----------



## qes27

Optimus WC said:


> Right on!
> 
> And here's a taste of the Absolute Threadripper 3+ block. This is a true copper mirror. It's machined like this, no buffing or anything, just obscene micron level finishing. It's super hard to do. Typically nickel is used to cover up machining marks and get that mirror effect. But doing a real copper mirror is an entirely different story. We're super proud of this


Damn that's pretty

Thanks for the timeline update, can't wait


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Right on!
> 
> And here's a taste of the Absolute Threadripper 3+ block. This is a true copper mirror. It's machined like this, no buffing or anything, just obscene micron level finishing. It's super hard to do. Typically nickel is used to cover up machining marks and get that mirror effect. But doing a real copper mirror is an entirely different story. We're super proud of this


Damn... That is impressive!


----------



## vagrant

That threadripper block is the best looking block I have ever seen.

Also I gave in and bought the AMD foundation block. Considered buying their 8.5 Res also but I have no good way to mount it in my evolv x.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Right on!
> 
> And here's a taste of the Absolute Threadripper 3+ block. This is a true copper mirror. It's machined like this, no buffing or anything, just obscene micron level finishing. It's super hard to do. Typically nickel is used to cover up machining marks and get that mirror effect. But doing a real copper mirror is an entirely different story. We're super proud of this


Hi,
Might be able to use it as a mirror for shaving until mounted


----------



## ciarlatano

Optimus WC said:


> YES! First off, the reliability is vastly better, especially for client builds. Zero cracking, zero leaching o-rings, etc. The blocks that have screw threads into plastic are begging for cracks. Our gasket takes like two seconds to install, no struggling with o-rings. Simplified mounting, super easy servicing, and it looks awesome
> 
> For performance, GPUs are really dependent on a number of factors. Yes, our block performs the best, though it's in overclocking scenarios where you can squeeze out a few degrees lower and, thus, 30MHz higher frequency. BUT, big caveat, it really depends on the quality of the GPU die. With our block and average cooling, you'll hit the card's peek potential immediately. Our cooling on the power delivery and RAM is noticeably better, as well. So you can tweak performance all over the place, especially with the custom bios. But, as a simple metric, the best we've gotten on a reference 2080Ti out of the box is 2205MHz with just moving sliders. But not every card can do that.
> 
> So it'll be hard to say exactly what performance gain you'll see vs other water blocks. But aside from the massive improvement in reliability and serviceability, if there is extra performance to be had, our block will find it


Get the GPU blocks within a few degrees of the competitors with better build quality and reliability and I am all over that. Frankly the whole GPU at 52C rather than 55C that users think means something is absolutely absurd. That three degrees gains you absolutely nothing. Give me a block at 55C that lasts a lifetime over a 52C block with acrylic that splinters in a year every time.


----------



## Optimus WC

ciarlatano said:


> Get the GPU blocks within a few degrees of the competitors with better build quality and reliability and I am all over that. Frankly the whole GPU at 52C rather than 55C that users think means something is absolutely absurd. That three degrees gains you absolutely nothing. Give me a block at 55C that lasts a lifetime over a 52C block with acrylic that splinters in a year every time.


Well, with Optimus, you don't have to choose 


*GPU FINISHES:* We'll be shipping GPUs this week. The nickel midplates are being done right now, so we don't have pics yet. The acetal top is, well, acetal, same thickness, looks sinister. For those buying acetal over acrylic, don't  Our acrylic is bulletproof acrylic, meaning it is stronger than acetal. Acetal has traditionally been the professional option, but really it's much less desirable for pro builds than our acrylic. We should call our cast acrylic "Professional Bulletproof PMMA" or something, so people don't think our acrylic is the cheap acrylic.


----------



## skupples

so... you're saying I should bust out the .22 and test? or maybe go straight to the hand cannon?
i'll be sure to save that test for last... 

POM's soft, but its so sexy in black. 


Kalm_Traveler said:


> I'm curious to see some comparisons on the same cards with their Turing block compared to the others like Heatkiller and Aqua Computer. Words are great, but data is even better


I unfortunately don't have any other turing blocks. I wasn't planning to water cool the obscenely disappointing 20 series, but had to test drive optimus to confirm what's going on my 30 series titan.


vagrant said:


> Yeah I’ve seen the pics with the opaque white coolant back when they were first.
> 
> I was hopping to see more pics of different variations. You have a ton of different options choosing between copper/nickel/acetal but even on their page they just show the acrylic and full copper block.
> 
> As I have no desire in a raw copper cold or mid plate



looks like that'll get updated soon now that they have existing products to take photos of outside of CAD 

agreed, i ordered what he hinted would be available first. I'd prefer pom/nickel, for looks... Specially once its proven their marine grade nickel is legit.


----------



## Francicello

Do you know which store in Europe can sell your products?


----------



## skupples

side thought - optimus should definitely move forward with innovating the side terminal game. Builds with PCI-e extenders would look even better without that extra 90 turn to get into the standard "EK-FC-Terminal" design. so far, only the chinese block bros are doing this, and only on the rear of the card, for proper distro-plate mating. (those look like major PITAs to work with, aside from easier runs)


----------



## vagrant

Okay fine I preordered the GPU block also. FINE. GAH!


----------



## Optimus WC

Haha, right on  

EUROPE: Can't discuss yet, but we're working on it.

TERMINALS: Yeah, definitely want to do more variations. We'll prob offer a "pro" top terminal replacement first. Then figure out other complete block redesigns. 

BULLETPROOF: Our blocks work as DIY armor in a pinch. Bonus, keeps ya cool.


----------



## Kana Chan

JustinThyme said:


> If you look at the ID of any G1/4 fitting that IMO is the restricting for for any loop. Don’t have one of those to measure but standard G1/4 is 10mm ID.


Is it really 10mm or is it "3/8 = 9.525mm" ?

The hexagon shape only fills 82.7% of a circle if Radius is the same. The hex shape looks much smaller than the circle from a few pages back.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-101.html
https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=319592&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1579278583


----------



## vagrant

Optimus WC said:


> Well, with Optimus, you don't have to choose
> 
> 
> *GPU FINISHES:* We'll be shipping GPUs this week. The nickel midplates are being done right now, so we don't have pics yet. The acetal top is, well, acetal, same thickness, looks sinister. For those buying acetal over acrylic, don't  Our acrylic is bulletproof acrylic, meaning it is stronger than acetal. Acetal has traditionally been the professional option, but really it's much less desirable for pro builds than our acrylic. We should call our cast acrylic "Professional Bulletproof PMMA" or something, so people don't think our acrylic is the cheap acrylic.


Curious about CPU block stock. Do you have AMD Foundation blocks currently in stock or is everything backordered?


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

skupples said:


> I unfortunately don't have any other turing blocks. I wasn't planning to water cool the obscenely disappointing 20 series, but had to test drive optimus to confirm what's going on my 30 series titan.


30 series anything isn't out yet...

On Turing cards so far I have tested Bitspower, Heatkiller, and currently running my Titans with Aqua Computer blocks. Temps have continued to decrease in that order (Bitspower gave the highest temps, Heatkiller was ~ 5c on average lower, Aqua Computer with the active backplates seem to be about another 3-4c lower than Heatkiller).

The only other Turing card I have at the moment is an EVGA Kingpin 2080 Ti so no testing there... EVGA only made 1 small production run of their blocks last year and ran out immediately, so my only option is a Bykski block.


I would love to test out these Optimus products to provide some real data for folks between x299 and z390 (delidded 7960x, upcoming 10980xe upgrade, and direct die 9900ks) as well as direct comparison with these Aqua Computer Turing graphics card blocks but I'm not made of money and Optimus isn't likely to sample anything to a no-namer like me.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah back plates are overrated


----------



## skupples

Kalm_Traveler said:


> 30 series anything isn't out yet...
> 
> On Turing cards so far I have tested Bitspower, Heatkiller, and currently running my Titans with Aqua Computer blocks. Temps have continued to decrease in that order (Bitspower gave the highest temps, Heatkiller was ~ 5c on average lower, Aqua Computer with the active backplates seem to be about another 3-4c lower than Heatkiller).
> 
> The only other Turing card I have at the moment is an EVGA Kingpin 2080 Ti so no testing there... EVGA only made 1 small production run of their blocks last year and ran out immediately, so my only option is a Bykski block.
> 
> 
> I would love to test out these Optimus products to provide some real data for folks between x299 and z390 (delidded 7960x, upcoming 10980xe upgrade, and direct die 9900ks) as well as direct comparison with these Aqua Computer Turing graphics card blocks but I'm not made of money and Optimus isn't likely to sample anything to a no-namer like me.


Yes, i know. Thus why I'm getting it sorted now. I'm only buying one block for my Titan, & this one is the only unknown. damn, that's a lot of work. that's awesome... I would've ended up with a cryoblock+active plate if I wouldn't have stumbled upon optimus. I prefer Aqua's look to Heatkiller. 

did you do any testing with/without the active back plate? seems they make way less of them then they do blocks, so they're always sold out.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Back plates are mostly for protection than cooling
Case air flow across the back of the card is better.


----------



## skupples

true enough. That's why I've always used standard back plates(and they've saved my ass many times from cpu drips). I typically go the extra mile of putting tape behind the power section so there isn't 3mm of gap between back & plate... I thought I remembered someone proving this to be the main benefit of Aquacomp's back plate. It has more tape on it than just rear memory coverage.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep if it's a true heatsink the entire back would be thermal padded not just a couple spots
But often all back plates do is trap heat.
I took mine off.


----------



## skupples

you find all sorts of uses for thermal tape once you've procured entire sheets of fujipoly. Only PITA about that is keeping them clean, and fresh, which i do via a FoodSaver.

I'm not sure if its the case now, but previously, you could only buy heavily taxed small squares, or entire sheets.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

skupples said:


> Yes, i know. Thus why I'm getting it sorted now. I'm only buying one block for my Titan, & this one is the only unknown. damn, that's a lot of work. that's awesome... I would've ended up with a cryoblock+active plate if I wouldn't have stumbled upon optimus. I prefer Aqua's look to Heatkiller.
> 
> did you do any testing with/without the active back plate? seems they make way less of them then they do blocks, so they're always sold out.


Yes, I actually didn't do my homework when switching to the Aqua Computer blocks and bought a bridge not realizing that with the active backplates they have to use their own waterblock connector due to the embedded heat pipe. Compared to just the block I didn't see any GPU or memory temp difference but VRM temps per card dropped quite a bit around 15c, which I was really glad to see since they run hotter than 'normal' due to the shunt resistor mod I imagine.
@ThrashZone - you are correct with typical backplates, but as any testing done with these Aqua Computer active backplates show they actually do improve VRM temps a considerable amount - much much better than case airflow over a bare PCB.


----------



## Keith Myers

> I need to learn how to use this fancy Hakko


A Hakko soldering workstation has been my main rework tool for decades. You won't be unhappy. Great and easy to use workstation. Get multiple tips for different work sizes.


----------



## Ricey20

@OptimusWC still waiting on PPCS to ship out an order from December. It was an AMD Foundation acrylic+satin+raw copper. Any idea when they will get more?


----------



## Shawnb99

@OptimusWC what’s the eta on a dual pump setup?


----------



## Optimus WC

ORDERS: We got really backordered on AM4 blocks, but everything is being fulfilled this week. Sorry for all the delays, part of going from a tiny company to a less tiny company in a month 

GPUS: Shipping this week! Fujipoly thermal pads included.

DUAL PUMP BOTTOMS: Really hard to say. Only had a few small requests for it. But we're definitely going to do it, but we want to do some prototypes first and figure out the best solution. 

GPU BACKPLATE: Yes, we're going to make a full size passive plate. We've even thought about including a full width Fuji thermal pad  Not sure if that would matter.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah I noticed some back plate are vented so heat can escape


----------



## vagrant

Optimus WC said:


> ORDERS: We got really backordered on AM4 blocks, but everything is being fulfilled this week. Sorry for all the delays, part of going from a tiny company to a less tiny company in a month /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> GPUS: Shipping this week! Fujipoly thermal pads included.
> 
> DUAL PUMP BOTTOMS: Really hard to say. Only had a few small requests for it. But we're definitely going to do it, but we want to do some prototypes first and figure out the best solution.
> 
> GPU BACKPLATE: Yes, we're going to make a full size passive plate. We've even thought about including a full width Fuji thermal pad /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif Not sure if that would matter.



I put in a CPU order but tell me what GPU block variations you have excess in so I can order that specific one now lol

Unless you’re just doing made to order I guess


----------



## ThrashZone

vagrant said:


> I put in a CPU order but tell me what GPU block variations you have excess in so I can order that specific one now lol
> 
> Unless you’re just doing *made to order* I guess


Hi,
Watercool does it that way.


----------



## vagrant

ThrashZone said:


> vagrant said:
> 
> 
> 
> I put in a CPU order but tell me what GPU block variations you have excess in so I can order that specific one now lol
> 
> Unless youâ€™️re just doing *made to order* I guess
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Watercool does it that way.
Click to expand...

Well yeah but I would be getting it from someone like Titanrig not directly from Deutschland


----------



## ThrashZone

vagrant said:


> Well yeah but I would be getting it from someone like Titanrig not directly from Deutschland


Hi,
Filling orders is just that 
Optimus is also branching out to websites in UK and EU for that matter 
So basically they have balls to the walls production = expansion last update I saw *going from small company to Not so small company* :thumb:


----------



## Kana Chan

Is this going to be on amazon at some point?


----------



## skupples

they also mentioned some re-tooling to help keep up with the growth, there will still be pains either way though.


----------



## vagrant

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Filling orders is just that
> Optimus is also branching out to websites in UK and EU for that matter
> So basically they have balls to the walls production = expansion last update I saw *going from small company to Not so small company* :thumb:



Well yeah I have no issue with that and they are like 4 hours away from me. The real issue is that I need to return my phanteks glacier block because something went bad on it already so I am hoping to get a replacement while still in my return window for this one to mitigate possible downtime while I also need this PC for on-call work the week after next lol


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> ORDERS: We got really backordered on AM4 blocks, but everything is being fulfilled this week. Sorry for all the delays, part of going from a tiny company to a less tiny company in a month
> 
> 
> 
> GPUS: Shipping this week! Fujipoly thermal pads included.
> 
> 
> 
> DUAL PUMP BOTTOMS: Really hard to say. Only had a few small requests for it. But we're definitely going to do it, but we want to do some prototypes first and figure out the best solution.
> 
> 
> 
> GPU BACKPLATE: Yes, we're going to make a full size passive plate. We've even thought about including a full width Fuji thermal pad  Not sure if that would matter.




Yeah it’ll be challenging to figure out a dual pump/reservoir solution with what you’ve already designed.

I just may end up buying 2 pump/reservoir if I end up getting a distro plate.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Sounded like a dual base width with single reservoir.
Might take up less room seeing the pumps would be upright instead of end to end like ek's but it's just a top design not a combo.


----------



## Optimus WC

PRODUCTION SCHEDULE: We make product in batches, not exactly one off or made to order. The popularity of AMD blocks took us by surprise. The biggest source of delay in production is actually anodizing and finishing, not the manufacturing.

GPU AVAILABILITY: The first to be made are the copper/copper versions. Nickel always takes longer 

AMAZON: Most definitely, probably next week or the week after.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> PRODUCTION SCHEDULE: We make product in batches, not exactly one off or made to order. The popularity of AMD blocks took us by surprise. The biggest source of delay in production is actually anodizing and finishing, not the manufacturing.
> 
> GPU AVAILABILITY: The first to be made are the copper/copper versions. Nickel always takes longer
> 
> AMAZON: Most definitely, probably next week or the week after.


Hi,
Intel has 10 series production issues otherwise you'd be swamped there too even more than already probably


----------



## Richforbroke

Thanks @Optimus WC for the update. 👍


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Intel has 10 series production issues otherwise you'd be swamped there too even more than already probably


Lol, seriously!


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Lol, seriously!


Hi,
Yeah this traffic now is just people that already have x299 systems and know how hot they are 

The wild price slash will bring in more people to the platform but they will be in for a awaking that these 10 series chips are just as hot 

Saw someone who bought a signature for a 9900KS


----------



## arvinz

@Optimus WC — are you guys planning on releasing non-reference PCB 2080 ti blocks? I'm sure there are a lot of 2080 ti strix owners out there that would love to have more options in the gpu block space for their cards.


----------



## Section31

After resolving the issue with the 3950X (it was just an bad CPU that needs to be replaced) and by luck testing with an borrowed 3950X, I got the results back. The Optimus block is still 3-4 degrees cooler than the heatkiller block. 

Heatkiller at 4.3ghz all core (1.3 volts): 65 degrees
Optimus at 4.3ghz all core (1.3 volts): 61-62 degrees.


----------



## Optimus WC

arvinz said:


> @Optimus WC — are you guys planning on releasing non-reference PCB 2080 ti blocks? I'm sure there are a lot of 2080 ti strix owners out there that would love to have more options in the gpu block space for their cards.



Yes, the current plan is to do EVGA FTW/Kingpin and Strix after the reference. Hard to say the timeframe, but we're working to do it as soon as we can!




Section31 said:


> After resolving the issue with the 3950X (it was just an bad CPU that needs to be replaced) and by luck testing with an borrowed 3950X, I got the results back. The Optimus block is still 3-4 degrees cooler than the heatkiller block.
> 
> Heatkiller at 4.3ghz all core (1.3 volts): 65 degrees
> Optimus at 4.3ghz all core (1.3 volts): 61-62 degrees.



:thumbsups Great results!! Sorry about the bad CPU, but glad ya got that performance dialed in


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, the current plan is to do EVGA FTW/Kingpin and Strix after the reference. Hard to say the timeframe, but we're working to do it as soon as we can!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumbsups Great results!! Sorry about the bad CPU, but glad ya got that performance dialed in


+1 for the Galax HoF, I got a naked card with no cooler (Computex), the current options are pretty awful. The byksky is only compatible with the aircooled version of the card where the power comes out the side and the bitspower has an ugly metal plate covering all the goodies.


I know it's an unlikely endeavor but a man can dream can't he?


----------



## Rob w

It will be better when you @Optimus WC can get eu distributors!
I’m in the U.K., I’ve been waiting for my block and got a card from Royal Mail today, they won’t release it until unpaid customs duty is paid?
Just cost me another £28.65 on top of price because it’s from non eu country, that’s the first time I’ve encountered that charge.
It does make it more costly and for other parts of loop, please please get it set up.
Thanks
Rob w


----------



## Optimus WC

tatmMRKIV said:


> +1 for the Galax HoF, I got a naked card with no cooler (Computex), the current options are pretty awful. The byksky is only compatible with the aircooled version of the card where the power comes out the side and the bitspower has an ugly metal plate covering all the goodies.
> 
> 
> I know it's an unlikely endeavor but a man can dream can't he?



Yeah, the HOF is really impressive! Would love to cool that, it's arguably the best PCB design out there. The big challenge is they're not available in the US. And they're hard to find, maybe they're super special editions. So hard to know how many people actually have those things. But it sure is nice 




Rob w said:


> It will be better when you @Optimus WC can get eu distributors!
> I’m in the U.K., I’ve been waiting for my block and got a card from Royal Mail today, they won’t release it until unpaid customs duty is paid?
> Just cost me another £28.65 on top of price because it’s from non eu country, that’s the first time I’ve encountered that charge.
> It does make it more costly and for other parts of loop, please please get it set up.
> Thanks
> Rob w


Yikes! Yeah, customs duty sounds rough! We're working on distribution so you can skip that in the future.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah EU = Brexit !!!!


----------



## Shawnb99

Brokage fees to Canada can be just as bad, plus the damn exchange rate.
Luckily we only usually have to pay taxes on stuff, UPS or others charge astronomical prices to clear customs and then make it a IA to clear them yourself to avoid those fees


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah this traffic now is just people that already have x299 systems and know how hot they are
> 
> The wild price slash will bring in more people to the platform but they will be in for a awaking that these 10 series chips are just as hot
> 
> Saw someone who bought a signature for a 9900KS


What's wrong with a signature block on a 9900ks? I ordered one to test on x299 and if it really is better than the Heatkiller block I'll grab another for my 9900ks rig... 



Optimus WC said:


> Yes, the current plan is to do EVGA FTW/Kingpin and Strix after the reference. Hard to say the timeframe, but we're working to do it as soon as we can!


+1 for a premium 2080 Ti Kingpin block. I was highly disappointed in EVGA for only selling theirs for a few weeks last summer, and the only option at the moment being Bykski. Not that I expect it to be terrible, but brands carry weight around here based on reputation and you don't exactly see Bykski blocks being suggested above anyone else...


----------



## ThrashZone

Kalm_Traveler said:


> What's wrong with a signature block on a 9900ks? I ordered one to test on x299 and if it really is better than the Heatkiller block I'll grab another for my 9900ks rig...


Hi,
1151 socket is a lot smaller than 2066 so is the chip 
Signature has no flex so no telling how well it will seat on 1151 it's really made for 2066.

Foundation would be more appropriate is all and still a great choice over HK 4 pro and save 50.00.


----------



## Optimus WC

Chiming in here re: the Signature and 9900ks. Interestingly, you will see improvement in overclocking with the Signature over the Foundation on any Intel CPU. The reason it doesn't really matter for 1150x vs 20xx is that the die size directly under the IHS is more important than overall IHS size. The Foundation and Signature both use the same cold plate, the Signature is simply able to go to another level to ensure that the contact is absolutely perfect. 

There are a bunch of results from users who run the Signature on 990ks and see the upgrades 

That said, the reason the HEDT CPUs show better performance gain (regardless of block) is because the big chip generates more heat. So the difference between Optimus and others is greater. Like when we release Threadripper or 3175x (maybe) the differences will be HUGE


----------



## skupples

thx for confirming. i was planning to grab a signature after the gpu block, & call it a day for a decade. (at least, in dog years)


----------



## Rob w

Just a quick one here,
I’ve got the foundation coming, I ordered the raw copper plate.
Thinking on it am I right that I should not use liquid metal for thermals ?( seem to recall reading it pits the copper)
What should I use as best alternative, ? been a fanboy of LM for the past 18months and never used any others.


----------



## skupples

Cool Labs ultra will eventually mar the surface... i've never seen it actually affect temps though.

reminds me, i wanna see if gelid makes those reflow pads for modern chipsets.


----------



## Optimus WC

Yeah, if using LM, definitely go with nickel unless you plan on replacing cold plates with every upgrade (some do). Shoot us an email at [email protected] saying you want to change


----------



## Rob w

Optimus WC said:


> Yeah, if using LM, definitely go with nickel unless you plan on replacing cold plates with every upgrade (some do). Shoot us an email at [email protected] saying you want to change


I went for the copper base believing it to be better on thermals, didn't think at the time about LM contact with coper. ?
not really wanting the hassle of changing it besides it really looks cool! So it was more a case of what is next best to LM performance that I should swap to.


----------



## Shawnb99

Since the LM doesn't affect the copper cooling performance it's really about looks and since you can't see it when mounted I wouldn't consider it that big of a deal. I almost went with copper myself but the difference between the nickle plating and pure copper isn't that much of a difference anyways.

I miss the days of a custom pure silver water block though. Damn thing was super expensive though and since it was custom made only a few were made a year.


----------



## skupples

pretty much. not to mention LM eventually eats thru current nickel samples as well.


----------



## Cidious

LM eats through my Ryzen IHS lol... That's why I stopped using it for CPU's.. now using Noctua NT-H1 or NT-H2 or Kyronaut whatever I have laying around first. But I do use LM for my graphics card and the Gigabyte Caming OC direct copper heatpipe cooler.. shaves off 7 degrees compared with Kryonaut and even more with NT-H1 from Noctua.


----------



## ThrashZone

Cidious said:


> LM eats through my Ryzen IHS lol... That's why I stopped using it for CPU's.. now using Noctua NT-H1 or NT-H2 or Kyronaut whatever I have laying around first. But I do use LM for my graphics card and the Gigabyte Caming OC direct copper heatpipe cooler.. shaves off 7 degrees compared with Kryonaut and even more with NT-H1 from Noctua.


Hi,
Thermal grizzly LM shouldn't do that but I don't understand the LM fad either


----------



## skupples

from what I understand, it's from the gallium content? so if grizzle doesn't have trace gallium, it should be fine.


----------



## JustinThyme

Back tracking a few pages to back plates on GPU. Agreed that it it’s just there it traps heat. However when it’s active or even passive and makes some contact it’s does help. Backplate for HK on Strix cards, through tape of course, contacts both primary and secondary VRMs as well as backside of GPU socket. At this point the only other GPU block I’d take would be the aquacomputer With active cooling on the backplate. Too bad they only do reference. 

I’ll see where the passive on HK does in a few days. Rig on the way back to reassembly stage. All rads flushed, fans wiped clean and even good hot water blast on rad fins to clean all that out too. She will be squeaky clean with a slightly different configuration on plumbing and one less rad. Plan is to have 8 rad fans pushing in controlled from liquid temp and 5 exhaust fans in front pushing out controlled by interior case temp. I don’t think I was getting much action out of the 360 in the front due to only having about 1/4” clearance between fans and front cover. There was some flow but let’s see how it does without. If it doesn’t perform well enough I have a slim I can put behind front cover.


----------



## whiteskymage

Optimus WC said:


> Chiming in here re: the Signature and 9900ks. Interestingly, you will see improvement in overclocking with the Signature over the Foundation on any Intel CPU. The reason it doesn't really matter for 1150x vs 20xx is that the die size directly under the IHS is more important than overall IHS size. The Foundation and Signature both use the same cold plate, the Signature is simply able to go to another level to ensure that the contact is absolutely perfect.
> 
> There are a bunch of results from users who run the Signature on 990ks and see the upgrades /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


Hey there, Will there be a GPU Signature block for 2080Ti or are you guys waiting on Ampere for those?


----------



## Optimus WC

whiteskymage said:


> Hey there, Will there be a GPU Signature block for 2080Ti or are you guys waiting on Ampere for those?


So right now, we have ideas for a Signature, but the Absolute is really the best we can do at the moment. The Signature GPU block would be about tweaking performance in different ways. If we did full nickel, we calculated the block would weigh 15lbs!

More likely we'll do a Foundation GPU block first. It'll be more a simplified pro version, possibly universal and/or modular for wide comparability regardless of GPU PCB.


----------



## Pilz

Optimus WC said:


> whiteskymage said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey there, Will there be a GPU Signature block for 2080Ti or are you guys waiting on Ampere for those?
> 
> 
> 
> So right now, we have ideas for a Signature, but the Absolute is really the best we can do at the moment. The Signature GPU block would be about tweaking performance in different ways. If we did full nickel, we calculated the block would weigh 15lbs!
> 
> More likely we'll do a Foundation GPU block first. It'll be more a simplified pro version, possibly universal and/or modular for wide comparability regardless of GPU PCB.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't mind swapping mine for a better one but I also know Ampere is coming so soon it wouldn't see the use it deserves. Are the GPU back plates coming really soon?


----------



## vagrant

Pilz said:


> I wouldn't mind swapping mine for a better one but I also know Ampere is coming so soon it wouldn't see the use it deserves. Are the GPU back plates coming really soon?


Probably not seeing a 3080ti until August/September. But I guess "soon" is subjective.


----------



## skupples

^^ 3080 Q2, 3080ti synced with console release. yes yes, I know. top tier gpu isn't meant to compete with consoles. This is why you don't work for NV marketing and sales dept.


----------



## Pilz

vagrant said:


> Pilz said:
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't mind swapping mine for a better one but I also know Ampere is coming so soon it wouldn't see the use it deserves. Are the GPU back plates coming really soon?
> 
> 
> 
> Probably not seeing a 3080ti until August/September. But I guess "soon" is subjective.
Click to expand...

Considering I got my 2080Ti at launch that's soon relative to how long I've had it. 

I'll buy another FE or AIB based one at launch, then slap a waterblock on there before I install the card like before.


----------



## skupples

that's usually the best bet, specially now that NV sells their own stuff. 

i'm hoping optimus won't take forever to churn out responses to new products. Let's see that industry 4.0 shine!

also, post 1111 ftw


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> that's usually the best bet, specially now that NV sells their own stuff.
> 
> i'm hoping optimus won't take forever to churn out responses to new products. Let's see that industry 4.0 shine!
> 
> also, post 1111 ftw


Haha, wow this thread got long. 

And industry 4.0 for sure! That said, there's only one genius at Optimus doing the actual product design. And he's not a robot...yet.


----------



## skupples

and hopefully he will never become one. 

Optimus is a breath of fresh air, so the hype is warranted. This thread alone keeps OCN's heart beating. 

I'm sure there aren't enough hours in the day, and to think we're not far off from Ampere n big navi.


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> and hopefully he will never become one.
> 
> Optimus is a breath of fresh air, so the hype is warranted. This thread alone keeps OCN's heart beating.
> 
> I'm sure there aren't enough hours in the day, and to think we're not far off from Ampere n big navi.


Ah, right on! We're working like crazy, for sure. 

We're super excited about Big Navi (AMD in general) and just more competition. 

Really, as we get GPUs and Threadripper into production, new products will be released MUCH faster. The overall design for performance is absolutely the hardest part. Adjusting mounting or vrm location is easy. 

So the only thing that will hold us up when a new product is launched is getting our hands on samples to test.


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> Ah, right on! We're working like crazy, for sure.
> 
> We're super excited about Big Navi (AMD in general) and just more competition.
> 
> Really, as we get GPUs and Threadripper into production, new products will be released MUCH faster. The overall design for performance is absolutely the hardest part. Adjusting mounting or vrm location is easy.
> 
> *So the only thing that will hold us up when a new product is launched is getting our hands on samples to test.*


i've always wondered about that. I wonder whom of the existing community is l33t enough to get pre-release samples.

seems like a giant !!RISK!! issue as far as their love for NDAs.


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> i've always wondered about that. I wonder whom of the existing community is l33t enough to get pre-release samples.
> 
> seems like a giant !!RISK!! issue as far as their love for NDAs.


Yeah, absolutely. For us, we'll build the relationships to get ahead on design. Some companies are harder than others.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Yeah, absolutely. For us, we'll build the relationships to get ahead on design. Some companies are harder than others.


Hi,
Hope y'all do patients 
ThermalTake will be cloning your blocks and patient them and then put you out of business it's what they do best.


----------



## TK421

signature am4 when?


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Hope y'all do patients
> ThermalTake will be cloning your blocks and patient them and then put you out of business it's what they do best.


 

erks me so much. 

they could at least release more caselab clones. Not that I'd buy it lol.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

skupples said:


> erks me so much.
> 
> they could at least release more caselab clones. Not that I'd buy it lol.


I hate the practice but to be fair I inadvertently bought their Fractal Designs Define R6 TG clone and it's actually a little bit better quality. I had a Define R6 TG case for my 2018 Christmas build and the 2 captive thumb screws which attach the PSU bracket to the frame somehow pulled the threads out of the frame - the bracket just popped off one day. PSU wasn't pressing up against anything inside to put pressure on those, let alone enough to rip the threads out of the steel frame.


----------



## whiteskymage

Optimus WC said:


> So right now, we have ideas for a Signature, but the Absolute is really the best we can do at the moment. The Signature GPU block would be about tweaking performance in different ways. If we did full nickel, we calculated the block would weigh 15lbs!
> 
> More likely we'll do a Foundation GPU block first. It'll be more a simplified pro version, possibly universal and/or modular for wide comparability regardless of GPU PCB.


Wait - you mean you want to have a GPU block that can work with AIB custom PCBs? Guess that would mean if I get a custom EVGA or GALAX HOF card, you would try to make this universal block work?

And also, about the weight - 15lbs is definately a lot, but you could put warnings. However there is also that people like to put their GPUs vertically towards their PC window if their case allows them to (this looks like to be the new thing now) and then the hardware reviewers like Jay2Cents will use it on a test bench. I doubt this weight will be a huge problem. It may sag for some but in many cases, sagging can be fixed.



Optimus WC said:


> Ah, right on! We're working like crazy, for sure.
> 
> We're super excited about Big Navi (AMD in general) and just more competition.
> 
> Really, as we get GPUs and Threadripper into production, new products will be released MUCH faster. The overall design for performance is absolutely the hardest part. Adjusting mounting or vrm location is easy.
> 
> So the only thing that will hold us up when a new product is launched is getting our hands on samples to test.


I see, that's good news but you need to give those blocks to reviewers for benchmarking. You will get a lot more sales this way. Your products will definitely beat EKWB's (which unfortunately everyone uses). I was really sad to see Linus make a build guide in a very nice case recently and yet it was all EK...everything... Why not Heatkiller? Why not Optimus?


----------



## JustinThyme

Difference is TT is crap no matter what it is. Only thing I’ve seen them so worth a crap is the Core series cases and that’s about it. As for Fractal, better quality than what? A cardboard box? They were one of the first to market with a Strix block, bought a Pacifica block thinking I’ll give them a try. Opened the box, looked at the cheap garbage and sent it back without even unpacking the whole thing. Barrow blocks are huge fails as well poorly copying others. A PPCs rep lied his ass off saying they had as good of a thermal performance as any other and that top runners actually bought designs from them. I stuck up for the guy until he couldn’t back up the BS. I’ll never buy and part from them now.


----------



## VeritronX

Well I did the right thing and read the whole thread before posting.. but still.

The reason you need to use a backplate is because after years of use / hundreds of heating and cooling cycles motherboards bend and settle in, and while they will still work with the same cooler if you change to a cooler with a backplate alot of the time straightening the board results in traces breaking and a dead mobo. I have several intel motherboards that lived their life with the stock cooler and then were upgraded to a backplate cooler and the board never posted again.

This is worse for the amd socket because the backplate is used for almost any cooler, including the stock ones.. so if you want to use the board for anything else down the line you'd probably be out of luck.

The bright side of this for optimus is that you can rely on every am4 board having a backplate, so all you need to do is have a post that threads into it with a flat disc on it that will snug to the motherboard.. you can then set the length of the post from the surface of the motherboard and use that so the mounting for the block always stops at the right height.


----------



## Kana Chan

Is the engraving optional? No text/text?


----------



## skupples

re: universals, all you'd need is a GPU VRM block. I've seen plenty of people mod old mobo VRM blocks to work fine on custom pcb cards.

JayZ2cents has a recent video on it.


JustinThyme said:


> Difference is TT is crap no matter what it is. Only thing I’ve seen them so worth a crap is the Core series cases and that’s about it. As for Fractal, better quality than what? A cardboard box? They were one of the first to market with a Strix block, bought a Pacifica block thinking I’ll give them a try. Opened the box, looked at the cheap garbage and sent it back without even unpacking the whole thing. Barrow blocks are huge fails as well poorly copying others. A PPCs rep lied his ass off saying they had as good of a thermal performance as any other and that top runners actually bought designs from them. I stuck up for the guy until he couldn’t back up the BS. I’ll never buy and part from them now.


the barrow/byski propaganda is crazy. it makes me wonder if Europe gets a different supply than the US, because over here they're garbage.


----------



## ciarlatano

JustinThyme said:


> Difference is TT is crap no matter what it is.


No doubt. Absolute garbage.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> re: universals, all you'd need is a GPU VRM block. I've seen plenty of people mod old mobo VRM blocks to work fine on custom pcb cards.
> 
> 
> 
> JayZ2cents has a recent video on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the barrow/byski propaganda is crazy. it makes me wonder if Europe gets a different supply than the US, because over here they're garbage.




I’ve only bought one Barrow product, a ball valve. Thing is a piece of crap that leaks.
Never again 

No wonder it’s so cheap, you get what you pay for.


----------



## hanzy

Here's mine! Have not done any real testing yet and don't have another block to reference either. First AMD cpu in a long time.
Just got it up and running last night.
And yeah, I got rid of the stupid SB chipset fan.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

ciarlatano said:


> No doubt. Absolute garbage.


The Tower 900 case my HEDT is in is actually really great. Can't find anything else on the market comparable for what it does.

Also as I said, their clone of the Fractal Define R6 TG is actually more sturdy. I have a retro rig in one and it is much better build quality than the Define R6 TG I used for a gaming PC in December 2018.


As fun as blanket statements might be, obviously if everything a company made was garbage they would go out of business. Thermaltake has been around for a very long time, and like most manufacturers have higher end and lower end products - IE poor quality. Of course we don't like their business practices of copying other designs, but that's an entirely different matter.


----------



## Pilz

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, the current plan is to do EVGA FTW/Kingpin and Strix after the reference. Hard to say the timeframe, but we're working to do it as soon as we can!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumbsups Great results!! Sorry about the bad CPU, but glad ya got that performance dialed in


 @OptimusWC

I agree with others, having the posts be compatible with the stock AM4 backplate is essential. I have a $700 Aorus Xtreme motherboard that I'd rather not kill due to not running one. Will the posts be revised to fit the stock backplate? I might remove my Foundation until a chance is made because as I noted before there was a lot of stress with those posts being installed and it made me a little uncomfortable.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Optimus WC said:


> Yeah, the HOF is really impressive! Would love to cool that, it's arguably the best PCB design out there. The big challenge is they're not available in the US. And they're hard to find, maybe they're super special editions. So hard to know how many people actually have those things. But it sure is nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yikes! Yeah, customs duty sounds rough! We're working on distribution so you can skip that in the future.


It's available stateside but only in limited batches and directly from GALAX, I got mine from a extreme OC buddy who competed at computex



Kalm_Traveler said:


> What's wrong with a signature block on a 9900ks? I ordered one to test on x299 and if it really is better than the Heatkiller block I'll grab another for my 9900ks rig...
> 
> 
> 
> +1 for a premium 2080 Ti Kingpin block. I was highly disappointed in EVGA for only selling theirs for a few weeks last summer, and the only option at the moment being Bykski. Not that I expect it to be terrible, but brands carry weight around here based on reputation and you don't exactly see Bykski blocks being suggested above anyone else...


The block is okay, its not the best looking, but my problem is It was completely incompatible with the PCB layout I had. There are 4 variations of the GPU I have, 2 different PCB layouts. 3 versions have the layout I have, 2 come with factory watercooling and the one I got was a early release for a competition, it was a naked pcb with just the pcie bracket as it was intended to be used with a LN2 pot. Bitspower is the OEM maker of the factory watercooled edition, there were only a hundred or 2 made they released a aftermarket block that works well enough its just ugly. they went for a metal aesthetic and I don't like it. Anyways I digress, there was one variation with a different pcb layout where the 8pin pcie come in the same as the kingpin card, it was only aircooled, and that is the only layout the byksky is compatible with.


----------



## vagrant

Wait. The foundation block has to be installed without a mobo backplate?!


----------



## TK421

skupples said:


> re: universals, all you'd need is a GPU VRM block. I've seen plenty of people mod old mobo VRM blocks to work fine on custom pcb cards.
> 
> JayZ2cents has a recent video on it.
> 
> 
> the barrow/byski propaganda is crazy. it makes me wonder if Europe gets a different supply than the US, because over here they're garbage.





Shawnb99 said:


> I’ve only bought one Barrow product, a ball valve. Thing is a piece of crap that leaks.
> Never again
> 
> No wonder it’s so cheap, you get what you pay for.





What fittings would you recommend then? The optimus ones are to expensive for me :|


----------



## skupples

copper barbs from home depot for $1 a piece.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

tatmMRKIV said:


> It's available stateside but only in limited batches and directly from GALAX, I got mine from a extreme OC buddy who competed at computex
> 
> 
> 
> The block is okay, its not the best looking, but my problem is It was completely incompatible with the PCB layout I had. There are 4 variations of the GPU I have, 2 different PCB layouts. 3 versions have the layout I have, 2 come with factory watercooling and the one I got was a early release for a competition, it was a naked pcb with just the pcie bracket as it was intended to be used with a LN2 pot. Bitspower is the OEM maker of the factory watercooled edition, there were only a hundred or 2 made they released a aftermarket block that works well enough its just ugly. they went for a metal aesthetic and I don't like it. Anyways I digress, there was one variation with a different pcb layout where the 8pin pcie come in the same as the kingpin card, it was only aircooled, and that is the only layout the byksky is compatible with.


which card are you talking about?

AFAIK there is only one version of the EVGA 2080 Ti Kingpin edition. I am hoping that Optimus will put out a full cover water block for it because EVGA didn't produce many of their own Hydro Copper blocks for the Kingpin card, and sold out last summer never to restock. Bykski is the only brand I've found who makes a Kingpin block now but their performance reputation is a bit dubious as far as I am finding, especially compared to the more reputable brands like Water Cooling and Aqua Computer.

If Optimus can produce a water block for it (the Kingpin card) that is in the same performance ballpark as blocks from Water Cool and Aqua Computer, I'd gladly use it over Bykski.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Kalm_Traveler said:


> which card are you talking about?
> 
> AFAIK there is only one version of the EVGA 2080 Ti Kingpin edition. I am hoping that Optimus will put out a full cover water block for it because EVGA didn't produce many of their own Hydro Copper blocks for the Kingpin card, and sold out last summer never to restock. Bykski is the only brand I've found who makes a Kingpin block now but their performance reputation is a bit dubious as far as I am finding, especially compared to the more reputable brands like Water Cooling and Aqua Computer.
> 
> If Optimus can produce a water block for it (the Kingpin card) that is in the same performance ballpark as blocks from Water Cool and Aqua Computer, I'd gladly use it over Bykski.


Galax 2080Ti HoF oc lab edition as far as I can tell byksky and barrow are the same company, and people have been using barow for fittings for a few years now. They aren't as nice as optimus of course but they get the job done. That's pretty ridiculous that EVGA pulled the plug on block production.


----------



## hanzy

skupples said:


> copper barbs from home depot for $1 a piece.


LMAO.


----------



## vagrant

TK421 said:


> What fittings would you recommend then? The optimus ones are to expensive for me :|


Bitspower is a good mix of quality and price


----------



## skupples

hanzy said:


> LMAO.


why is that a problem from any standpoint other than aesthetic?

compression fittings are expensive, and not always the safest option. Barbs simply work. i wish someone would've given me this advice 10 years ago before i gave BP a mortgage payment worth of money for a lifetime supply of fittings. 

the best option is to then avoid watercool branded products all together, go straight for the raw... if you don't like the raw look, you can always get em coated via the internet, while still not paying the watercool tax.


----------



## TK421

skupples said:


> copper barbs from home depot for $1 a piece.





hanzy said:


> LMAO.



Compatible with watercooling stuff?









vagrant said:


> Bitspower is a good mix of quality and price



Which compression fitting do you recommend? They have so much varieties it's hard to choose from.











skupples said:


> why is that a problem from any standpoint other than aesthetic?
> 
> compression fittings are expensive, and not always the safest option. Barbs simply work. i wish someone would've given me this advice 10 years ago before i gave BP a mortgage payment worth of money for a lifetime supply of fittings.
> 
> the best option is to then avoid watercool branded products all together, go straight for the raw... if you don't like the raw look, you can always get em coated via the internet, while still not paying the watercool tax.



Then is there a compression fitting you would recommend that isn't overpriced?


Thinking of "Barrow G1/4" Thread 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD Soft Tube Compression Fitting - Black" but idk about QC and durability


----------



## boostedevo

skupples said:


> why is that a problem from any standpoint other than aesthetic?
> 
> compression fittings are expensive, and not always the safest option. Barbs simply work. i wish someone would've given me this advice 10 years ago before i gave BP a mortgage payment worth of money for a lifetime supply of fittings.
> 
> the best option is to then avoid watercool branded products all together, go straight for the raw... if you don't like the raw look, you can always get em coated via the internet, while still not paying the watercool tax.


Lol exactly. Barbs work fine for 70+ psi on fuel injection line they would work fine for our little water cooling setups


----------



## D-EJ915

G1/4" is a pipe standard long before people started watercooling computers.



vagrant said:


> Wait. The foundation block has to be installed without a mobo backplate?!


None of them have backplates, the only one that "has a backplate" is if you install it onto intel 2011/2011-3/2066 sockets since they have built-in mounting system. I wish Intel would adopt a smaller version for regular socket because it's so much better than that dinky thing.

I don't really like compression fittings but usually it's cheaper than getting a rotary adapter and a barb lol.


----------



## hanzy

skupples said:


> why is that a problem from any standpoint other than aesthetic?
> 
> compression fittings are expensive, and not always the safest option. Barbs simply work. i wish someone would've given me this advice 10 years ago before i gave BP a mortgage payment worth of money for a lifetime supply of fittings.
> 
> the best option is to then avoid watercool branded products all together, go straight for the raw... if you don't like the raw look, you can always get em coated via the internet, while still not paying the watercool tax.


Oi. I guess sometimes phrasing, meaning, whatever is hard to convey through the internet. I was at work(auto tech/general tinkerer) and seriously laughed out loud because that really is the cheapest while also probably being a more reliable solution than some of these pricey compressions and rotary's we got now.
Just had two bad brand new EK 90°s leak on me the other night.


----------



## Rob w

I’m getting financially nervous now!
Installing new mobo, my EK dual loop system may not look pretty but has served well with no problems what so ever, no matter how may times I’ve altered it! Even with chiller on it.
Now from all the posts I read about ek being crap? I shall be inspecting every mm of it, boy these fittings cost an arm and a leg no matter who you buy from so I’d rather not have to renew it all, Here’s what I’m facing and a mountain of fittings,


----------



## skline00

Took the backplate off of my MSI X570 Unify to install the Optimus AMD Foundation WB and it has been fine.

Quality waterblock that works well with my 3900x.


----------



## ciarlatano

hanzy said:


> Just had two bad brand new EK 90°s leak on me the other night.


And, still.....they keep buying them and insisting they are the best components out there.......

And shame on your for even having them.


----------



## skupples

the only rotaries you should buy are bitspower. The rest all eventually fail (optimus excluded, haven't tested)


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> the only rotaries you should buy are bitspower. The rest all eventually fail (optimus excluded, haven't tested)


I have also used a good number of Monsoon rotaries and never had an issue ::knock wood::


----------



## skupples

forgot about those guys.

my statement includes - 

ek, barrow, swiftech, enzotech, alphastool, and a few others. I'm gonna have to go check now. Enzotech held up the best in comparison, but their powder comes off easily, & they corrode in conditions where BP doesn't.


----------



## Rob w

My foundation block arrived today, finally released from customs.
What a beautiful looking block, and solid too. ????


----------



## ThrashZone

Rob w said:


> I’m getting financially nervous now!
> Installing new mobo, my EK dual loop system may not look pretty but has served well with no problems what so ever, no matter how may times I’ve altered it! Even with chiller on it.
> Now from all the posts I read about ek being crap? I shall be inspecting every mm of it, boy these fittings cost an arm and a leg no matter who you buy from so I’d rather not have to renew it all, Here’s what I’m facing and a mountain of fittings,
> View attachment 321046





Rob w said:


> My foundation block arrived today, finally released from customs.
> What a beautiful looking block, and solid too. ????


Hi,
Sweet build about to be cool instead of looking cool with that mono block 
Time to put that mono block where ours are 
On our own personal walls of shame


----------



## Bart

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Sweet build about to be cool instead of looking cool with that mono block
> Time to put that mono block where ours are
> On our own personal walls of shame


LOL! You sir are not wrong. I have one on my X470 C7H, and it sucks so bad compared to a Heatkiller block. But yeah it LOOKS nice.


----------



## skupples

so glad I stuck to independent VRM blocks


----------



## hanzy

Yeah. I agree. I have typically used Bitspower and I have a large assortment of their fittings for soft tubing.
For my latest build I did Acrylic hard tubing. I wanted to try out another brand of fittings.
Regret.
Immediately on receiving and inspecting the EK rotaries did not give me a good feeling. They are all very loose and wobbly around the rotary.
Having been using Bitspower for almost...probably a decade now(we all know how tight those Bitspower rotary's are) I had a feeling there would be a leak somewhere.
Of course it had to be the input to the GPU block(which is on the backside of the card). I didn't position my paper towels quite right and coolant got behind the block onto the PCB. 
Had to remove the block to get it all cleaned up.
I suspect I will be swapping out all the EK fittings next loop maintenance.

I had zero issues with how the AM4 foundation block mounts onto my X570 Taichi. Removed the stock back plate and installed with the provided hardware. Zero issues and easy to install.
No excessive motherboard flex, no scratching the PCB etc...


----------



## vagrant

D-EJ915 said:


> G1/4" is a pipe standard long before people started watercooling computers.
> 
> 
> 
> vagrant said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wait. The foundation block has to be installed without a mobo backplate?!
> 
> 
> 
> None of them have backplates, the only one that "has a backplate" is if you install it onto intel 2011/2011-3/2066 sockets since they have built-in mounting system. I wish Intel would adopt a smaller version for regular socket because it's so much better than that dinky thing.
Click to expand...

None of them meaning what ones? Ever AM4 block I’ve used has let me use the stock board backplate. Unless I’m missing something here.


----------



## husniamirullah

Hi guys

I'm thinking for getting the GPU block installed for my EVGA XC 2080ti in the NCASE M1.

The trick is because it's Ncase - it's crucial that the waterblock is not too thick otherwise it'll conflict with my bottom XSPC TX240 radiators.

QUESTION: Does anyone know how thick (and all the dimensions for that matter) of the Optimus GPU block?

Thanks!


----------



## vagrant

husniamirullah said:


> Hi guys
> 
> I'm thinking for getting the GPU block installed for my EVGA XC 2080ti in the NCASE M1.
> 
> The trick is because it's Ncase - it's crucial that the waterblock is not too thick otherwise it'll conflict with my bottom XSPC TX240 radiators.
> 
> QUESTION: Does anyone know how thick (and all the dimensions for that matter) of the Optimus GPU block?
> 
> Thanks!


I don't know the exact dimensions as Optimus will need to reply with those. But this is a thiiiiiiiiic girl. Probably the thickest block I've seen.


----------



## Optimus WC

husniamirullah said:


> Hi guys
> 
> I'm thinking for getting the GPU block installed for my EVGA XC 2080ti in the NCASE M1.
> 
> The trick is because it's Ncase - it's crucial that the waterblock is not too thick otherwise it'll conflict with my bottom XSPC TX240 radiators.
> 
> QUESTION: Does anyone know how thick (and all the dimensions for that matter) of the Optimus GPU block?
> 
> Thanks!


Hey there! The block is around a 1.75 unit design, so not a full 2u thickness (like a 2u thick air cooled GPU). The thickness from the back of the PCB to the front of the acrylic is 28mm. The outside profile matches the PCB, so there isn't any extra overhang (except for the terminal).


----------



## husniamirullah

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there! The block is around a 1.75 unit design, so not a full 2u thickness (like a 2u thick air cooled GPU). The thickness from the back of the PCB to the front of the acrylic is 28mm. The outside profile matches the PCB, so there isn't any extra overhang (except for the terminal).


ouch... don't think that'll fit the ncase with a botton rad.. i'm so sad right now..


----------



## skupples

husniamirullah said:


> Hi guys
> 
> I'm thinking for getting the GPU block installed for my EVGA XC 2080ti in the NCASE M1.
> 
> The trick is because it's Ncase - it's crucial that the waterblock is not too thick otherwise it'll conflict with my bottom XSPC TX240 radiators.
> 
> QUESTION: Does anyone know how thick (and all the dimensions for that matter) of the Optimus GPU block?
> 
> Thanks!


idk, still waiting for that tracker that was hopefully supposed to come this week 



husniamirullah said:


> ouch... don't think that'll fit the ncase with a botton rad.. i'm so sad right now..


thinner rad, or low profile fans. or both. it's worth it.


----------



## Optimus WC

Yeah, things are delayed, it's definitely not something we wanted to have happen! For the GPU, we're making an upgrade that you're DEFINITELY enjoy


----------



## skupples

i forgive you either way.


----------



## vagrant

Optimus WC said:


> Yeah, things are delayed, it's definitely not something we wanted to have happen! For the GPU, we're making an upgrade that you're DEFINITELY enjoy


Things meaning GPU blocks or both GPU blocks and CPU blocks?


----------



## Optimus WC

Current best ETAs (this isn't exact, but we're working hard to hit these deadlines):
-backordered AM4 Foundation blocks: Monday or tuesday to ship
-GPUs: Hopefully end of next week or the week after. We're adding a new feature and then it needs to be processed so that takes an additional few days.
-Threadripper: End of next week. Same as GPU scheduling. They're both being finished concurrently and subject to the same scheduling/delays/etc. 

Intel is in stock


----------



## vagrant

Thanks for the update!


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Current best ETAs (this isn't exact, but we're working hard to hit these deadlines):
> -backordered AM4 Foundation blocks: Monday or tuesday to ship
> -GPUs: Hopefully end of next week or the week after. We're adding a new feature and then it needs to be processed so that takes an additional few days.
> -Threadripper: End of next week. Same as GPU scheduling. They're both being finished concurrently and subject to the same scheduling/delays/etc.
> 
> Intel is in stock


I have an question. I am considering the option of ordering the 1/2 metric hard tube fittings instead of 12mm. What size tubing would work with it. It appears the only options out there is the 13mm alphacool tubing.


----------



## D-EJ915

vagrant said:


> None of them meaning what ones? Ever AM4 block I’ve used has let me use the stock board backplate. Unless I’m missing something here.


You asked about the AM4 and none of the Optimus blocks use backplates whether AMD or Intel.



Were you guys making 3647 blocks for the W-3175X chip? Not likely to get one but just curious.


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> I have an question. I am considering the option of ordering the 1/2 metric hard tube fittings instead of 12mm. What size tubing would work with it. It appears the only options out there is the 13mm alphacool tubing.


So the 13mm doesn't work with our fittings. Only 1/2" PETG or acrylic will work. Primochill makes good PEG. We'll be releasing metric hardlines hopefully shortly, we're just finishing the designs and scheduling up production. 



D-EJ915 said:


> You asked about the AM4 and none of the Optimus blocks use backplates whether AMD or Intel.
> 
> 
> Were you guys making 3647 blocks for the W-3175X chip? Not likely to get one but just curious.


It's possible we'll do a 3647 block. Our Threadripper block is very close, so it'd only need slight tweaks to get there. The big question is if Intel is going to support that platform in the future or if the 3175x was just a one time thing.


----------



## Section31

Thanks for the update.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I have an question. I am considering the option of ordering the 1/2 metric hard tube fittings instead of 12mm. What size tubing would work with it. It appears the only options out there is the 13mm alphacool tubing.


Personally as much as I’d love to give their fittings a try 1/2 inch is just too hard to come by. 1/2” OD fittings are sparse. I’ve tried a lot of fittings over the years and Bitspower is the shiznit regardless.
Rotary, straight they are just awesome. When I have to wet them to get them in the two oring seat then there is another oring in compression nut it takes a very firm push to get them seated and you can feel it.

I’ve not had one flake or leak ever. I thought about going bigger but it was a passing thought as you could put 3/4 copper pipe up in there, doesn’t matter when it all gets choked down by G1/4 holes so 10mm ID is plenty and easier to work with. Anything above that won’t improve flow. 

I use PETG tubing simply because it’s easier to cut and bend. Acrylic takes more heat and is more prone to cracking on cuts unless you are using a fine blade coping saw. I use a PVC cutter. Nice clean cuts.


----------



## jink

I just picked up a Signature V2 nickel for my 9900k. I have been tackling temp problems with my build and want to see if temps can be lowered at all. Noctua A12 fans certainly helped, will see if this block does as well.

I wanted to go copper but I am not an 'extreme' overclocker and this thread wasn't convincing me to go that route. Hope I chose wisely and the difference isn't worth any worrying!


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have an question. I am considering the option of ordering the 1/2 metric hard tube fittings instead of 12mm. What size tubing would work with it. It appears the only options out there is the 13mm alphacool tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> Personally as much as Iâ€™️d love to give their fittings a try 1/2 inch is just too hard to come by. 1/2â€Â OD fittings are sparse. Iâ€™️ve tried a lot of fittings over the years and Bitspower is the shiznit regardless.
> Rotary, straight they are just awesome. When I have to wet them to get them in the two oring seat then there is another oring in compression nut it takes a very firm push to get them seated and you can feel it.
> 
> Iâ€™️ve not had one flake or leak ever. I thought about going bigger but it was a passing thought as you could put 3/4 copper pipe up in there, doesnâ€™️t matter when it all gets choked down by G1/4 holes so 10mm ID is plenty and easier to work with. Anything above that wonâ€™️t improve flow.
> 
> I use PETG tubing simply because itâ€™️s easier to cut and bend. Acrylic takes more heat and is more prone to cracking on cuts unless you are using a fine blade coping saw. I use a PVC cutter. Nice clean cuts.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I will be patient for them with 12mm from what they say. I have 12mm bp royal blue brass tubing (spare) so i prefer to reuse as much as possible.

I was using bitspower fittings and had issues with there regular hard tube compression fittings. There bp premium ones have been much better but still not satisfied.

I just gave away all my bp hard tubing compression fittings. Still keep the adapters,extenders, flow splitters.


----------



## vagrant

I had zero problems with Corsair and bitspower fittings. What were the actual problems you had?


----------



## ciarlatano

vagrant said:


> I had zero problems with Corsair and bitspower fittings. What were the actual problems you had?


No need for the "and" in that statement, since Corsair fittings are rebranded Bitspower.


----------



## Shawnb99

ciarlatano said:


> No need for the "and" in that statement, since Corsair fittings are rebranded Bitspower.




Isn’t almost everything Corsair rebranded products?


----------



## ciarlatano

Shawnb99 said:


> Isn’t almost everything Corsair rebranded products?


The fittings are BP, the rads are HWL L-Series (with a 50% upcharge for the little sailboat decal....really, I'm not kidding). I'm not sure who makes the blocks or res, but from the look and feel of them.....maybe Fisher Price or Hasbro?


----------



## Shawnb99

ciarlatano said:


> The fittings are BP, the rads are HWL L-Series (with a 50% upcharge for the little sailboat decal....really, I'm not kidding). I'm not sure who makes the blocks or res, but from the look and feel of them.....maybe Fisher Price or Hasbro?




I meant isn’t almost everything Corsair sells a rebranded product with an up charge for the sailboat decal.


----------



## ciarlatano

Shawnb99 said:


> I meant isn’t almost everything Corsair sells a rebranded product with an up charge for the sailboat decal.


In cooling, absolutely. The memory products their own (as much as any memory can be one's own). The Commander stuff is also their own....though I wouldn't exactly say that is a good thing. The power supplies range from off the shelf oem to some units that they have made some nice (and some not as nice) changes to. Most of the cases are oem chassis that are shared with a number of other cases, but panels and accessories are Corsair specific.

But, this is going off topic. The only thing Corsair offers that could possibly be mentioned in the same breathe with Optimus is Bitspower fittings.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Not another brand war :doh:


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Not another brand war :doh:




Optimus 4 Life!!


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Optimus 4 Life!!


Hi,
Alright now we're on topic :thumb:


----------



## ciarlatano

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Not another brand war :doh:


Not at all. @Shawnb99 asked a question. And as I said in my prior post:



ciarlatano said:


> But, this is going off topic. The only thing Corsair offers that could possibly be mentioned in the same breathe with Optimus is Bitspower fittings.


There is no brand war here, only clarification of a question. Can't have a brand war if the segments and target users have no overlap.

Can we get back to talking about Optimus now?


----------



## vagrant

ciarlatano said:


> vagrant said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had zero problems with Corsair and bitspower fittings. What were the actual problems you had?
> 
> 
> 
> No need for the "and" in that statement, since Corsair fittings are rebranded Bitspower.
Click to expand...

Lol yes. That is why I mentioned them together.

As an aside though, Corsair’s radiators are probably the cleanest I have ever used. With their water cooling stuff you are also getting some pretty great QC from what I can tell.

But it’s not really that off topic because we weren’t talking about their blocks just fittings. Fittings to go with an Optimus block.


----------



## skupples

jink said:


> I just picked up a Signature V2 nickel for my 9900k. I have been tackling temp problems with my build and want to see if temps can be lowered at all. Noctua A12 fans certainly helped, will see if this block does as well.
> 
> I wanted to go copper but I am not an 'extreme' overclocker and this thread wasn't convincing me to go that route. Hope I chose wisely and the difference isn't worth any worrying!


copper vs. nickel - for your uses, you'd probably never see the difference.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah nickle is just two more layers of material to cool through 
Copper cold plates rule for basic thermal paste application.


----------



## Section31

vagrant said:


> I had zero problems with Corsair and bitspower fittings. What were the actual problems you had?


My issues were unique to brass tubing. Less of an issue with petg. Basically the fittings were too short and brass tubing were easy to pull out/little movement and they leak.


----------



## Section31

ciarlatano said:


> ThrashZone said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Not another brand war /forum/images/smilies/doh.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Not at all. @Shawnb99 asked a question. And as I said in my prior post:
> 
> 
> 
> ciarlatano said:
> 
> 
> 
> But, this is going off topic. The only thing Corsair offers that could possibly be mentioned in the same breathe with Optimus is Bitspower fittings.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There is no brand war here, only clarification of a question. Can't have a brand war if the segments and target users have no overlap.
> 
> Can we get back to talking about Optimus now?
Click to expand...

We seem to be going back and forth with same set of questions. I discussed my fittings issues many pages ago. I guess this has become the unofficial optimus thread now.


----------



## skupples

i mean, it's the only thread created for the purpose of centralizing their info, on this site.

it would'a gone official 900 posts ago if OCN mods were still how they used to be. Though, they would'a also requested optimus sign up as vendor as well, i think.


----------



## jink

skupples said:


> copper vs. nickel - for your uses, you'd probably never see the difference.


That's what I figured. I am not pushing the limits to the extreme here, just basic water cooling loop. I was hoping to hear this instead of 'OH DAMN YOU LOST OUT ON 4C DROP!' 



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah nickle is just two more layers of material to cool through
> Copper cold plates rule for basic thermal paste application.


True. It *is* more to go through but won't tarnish as easily. More expensive and *does* reduce efficiency though. Makes me question the choice.

I am using basic thermal paste, though, which is why I worry? Not sure if any of this matters compared to the jet plate and fin design.


----------



## skupples

infinitesimal, some would claim.


----------



## ciarlatano

vagrant said:


> Lol yes. That is why I mentioned them together.
> 
> As an aside though, Corsair’s radiators are probably the cleanest I have ever used. With their water cooling stuff you are also getting some pretty great QC from what I can tell.
> 
> But it’s not really that off topic because we weren’t talking about their blocks just fittings. Fittings to go with an Optimus block.


And HWL rads to go with the Optimus block. And, yes, HWL ships their rads clean and have excellent QC. Glad Corsair didn't mess them up while applying their logo.


----------



## Zurv

skupples said:


> WooT
> 
> 
> 
> not sure of anyone else around here waiting for one aside from me.
> 
> outside of that. Optimus has posted his show room build a few times.
> 
> 
> They're thick, but I really don't mind that in this part of life. N the big NO ISLANDS (FTW!!!) V looks dope. It would be a good sideways block for a Borderlands Vault Hunter build.


oh, i ordered 2 GPU block.. and still waiting 

I'm putting them on two RTX Titan SLI (nvlink  )

** edit: so next week? maybe?


----------



## originxt

Received the optimus signature v2 today, wow is it heavy (512g). Currently benching the heatkiller iv pro before tossing the optimus block in. Was initially doing 10 test runs of each benchmark but sanity wise, dropped it to 5 because run variances showed little changes and I also didn't want to keep waiting for my water temperature to return ambient. Doing R15, R20, Timespy Extreme, Firestrike ultra, real bench, bmw blender, and h265 at 12x 4k. Recording scores, render times, individual core temps, package, widest gap, and overall average between cores.


----------



## J7SC

originxt said:


> Received the optimus signature v2 today, wow is it heavy (512g). Currently benching the heatkiller iv pro before tossing the optimus block in. Was initially doing 10 test runs of each benchmark but sanity wise, dropped it to 5 because run variances showed little changes and I also didn't want to keep waiting for my water temperature to return ambient. Doing R15, R20, Timespy Extreme, Firestrike ultra, real bench, bmw blender, and h265 at 12x 4k. Recording scores, render times, individual core temps, package, widest gap, and overall average between cores.


 
Did you solve the issue then you posted on here ? https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/528648-official-heatkiller-club-423.html#post28297808


----------



## originxt

J7SC said:


> Did you solve the issue then you posted on here ? https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/528648-official-heatkiller-club-423.html#post28297808


Nope. Did another repaste, cleaned but nothing in the block. We'll see if its the block being a bit wonky or its my chip.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Nope. Did another repaste, cleaned but nothing in the block. We'll see if its the block being a bit wonky or its my chip.


Hi,
Look forward to the results post an image or two over here also use rig builder and add it to your signature
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/584302-ocn-water-cooling-club-picture-gallery.html

BMW alone isn't all that great but a good first stability test 
Opendata is much better which runs bmw and classroom 

https://opendata.blender.org/

Just mount the signature normally don't bother with goofy mount 
I'd disconnect the pwm from the pump so it runs 100% or dial it to 5 if on a vario D5.
Jp had good results 
Read though through the thread if haven't already
https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-25.html#post28271598


This is when he thought his koolance block was doing well lol 16c difference between high/ low core temps 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-19.html#post28262876

Couldn't run much else no avx offset but 4.9 temps I added after forgot to put the temps page up front after running R20 72-82c


----------



## skupples

Zurv said:


> oh, i ordered 2 GPU block.. and still waiting
> 
> I'm putting them on two RTX Titan SLI (nvlink  )
> 
> ** edit: so next week? maybe?


TWOOOOO WEEEEEEEEEEKS


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

Update where we're at with everything:

*-AMD FOUNDATION INVENTORY:* everything is shipping this coming week and then we (and PPCs) should have good stock going forward...unless we get smashed with another rush of team red orders 

*-GPU BLOCKS: *So there is good news and less good news. First, we're really sorry about the delays on the blocks!! We're making sure we have the correct solution rather than the easy solution. While the block is awesome, there are some issues we've been seeing with NVIDIA PCBs and how performance can be dialed in. So we've developed an upgrade for the block that uses a fullsize backplate mount system. The backplate isn't a "backplate" like the traditional cosmetic backplate with a handful of thermal pads. Ours it's required for the block to work correctly and will be included with the GPUs. The plate is an extra thick milled aluminum slab with some unique features (no liquid cooled back...yet). The backplate mounting overcomes the issues with traditional GPU block designs and inherent issues with the NVIDIA PCB layout. Naturally, the block is delayed again a couple weeks as we get into manufacturing, anodizing, plating, gently caressing, whispering words of confidence, etc and then shipping. The good news is this upgrade, which would prob retail for $60+, is included free with all preorders! 

*-THREADRIPPER:* We're testing the Threadripper block right now and the performance is awesome, we've already broken a number of benchmarks with less-than-ideal prototype setups. We'll be manufacturing the blocks this coming week, then all the finishing will take another week or so. So our best estimate is the week after next for delivery. 

METRIC FITTINGS: We're working hard on these, aiming to launch in 2-3 weeks, though we've been hit with unexpected delays, but we're really pushing to get these done.


----------



## Section31

Thanks for update. So basically optimus just confirmed they will be my Gpu block for my next GPU.


----------



## Kana Chan

Are any of the tests using a vrm block + the waterblock vs vrm block + waterblock? Would the difference be greater by any chance?


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Update where we're at with everything:
> 
> *-AMD FOUNDATION INVENTORY:* everything is shipping this coming week and then we (and PPCs) should have good stock going forward...unless we get smashed with another rush of team red orders
> 
> *-GPU BLOCKS: *So there is good news and less good news. First, we're really sorry about the delays on the blocks!! We're making sure we have the correct solution rather than the easy solution. While the block is awesome, there are some issues we've been seeing with NVIDIA PCBs and how performance can be dialed in. So we've developed an upgrade for the block that uses a fullsize backplate mount system. The backplate isn't a "backplate" like the traditional cosmetic backplate with a handful of thermal pads. Ours it's required for the block to work correctly and will be included with the GPUs. The plate is an extra thick milled aluminum slab with some unique features (no liquid cooled back...yet). The backplate mounting overcomes the issues with traditional GPU block designs and inherent issues with the NVIDIA PCB layout. Naturally, the block is delayed again a couple weeks as we get into manufacturing, anodizing, plating, gently caressing, whispering words of confidence, etc and then shipping. The good news is this upgrade, which would prob retail for $60+, is included free with all preorders!
> 
> *-THREADRIPPER:* We're testing the Threadripper block right now and the performance is awesome, we've already broken a number of benchmarks with less-than-ideal prototype setups. We'll be manufacturing the blocks this coming week, then all the finishing will take another week or so. So our best estimate is the week after next for delivery.
> 
> METRIC FITTINGS: We're working hard on these, aiming to launch in 2-3 weeks, though we've been hit with unexpected delays, but we're really pushing to get these done.


Hi,
Am I included in that shipping this week deal 

I couldn't do this before optimus foundation 
https://valid.x86.fr/ez2ifr


----------



## skupples

Epic news. Was wondering how i'd mod my existing back plate to mate. now I can't just turn it into a coaster.

also, kana, what? VRM Block + the waterblock Vs vrm block + the waterblock?


----------



## Kana Chan

skupples said:


> VRM Block + the waterblock Vs vrm block + the waterblock?


Would the cpu temp difference be greater if a vrm block was used?


----------



## vagrant

Decided to go with HK for my GPU for now but will be interested in these going forward for 3xxx lines.

Also excited to get my foundation block.


----------



## Zurv

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Update where we're at with everything:
> 
> *-AMD FOUNDATION INVENTORY:* everything is shipping this coming week and then we (and PPCs) should have good stock going forward...unless we get smashed with another rush of team red orders
> 
> *-GPU BLOCKS: *So there is good news and less good news. First, we're really sorry about the delays on the blocks!! We're making sure we have the correct solution rather than the easy solution. While the block is awesome, there are some issues we've been seeing with NVIDIA PCBs and how performance can be dialed in. So we've developed an upgrade for the block that uses a fullsize backplate mount system. The backplate isn't a "backplate" like the traditional cosmetic backplate with a handful of thermal pads. Ours it's required for the block to work correctly and will be included with the GPUs. The plate is an extra thick milled aluminum slab with some unique features (no liquid cooled back...yet). The backplate mounting overcomes the issues with traditional GPU block designs and inherent issues with the NVIDIA PCB layout. Naturally, the block is delayed again a couple weeks as we get into manufacturing, anodizing, plating, gently caressing, whispering words of confidence, etc and then shipping. The good news is this upgrade, which would prob retail for $60+, is included free with all preorders!
> 
> *-THREADRIPPER:* We're testing the Threadripper block right now and the performance is awesome, we've already broken a number of benchmarks with less-than-ideal prototype setups. We'll be manufacturing the blocks this coming week, then all the finishing will take another week or so. So our best estimate is the week after next for delivery.
> 
> METRIC FITTINGS: We're working hard on these, aiming to launch in 2-3 weeks, though we've been hit with unexpected delays, but we're really pushing to get these done.



Thanks for the update sir. Stuff happens. (but it is key to keep people informed - which you are.)


----------



## skupples

Kana Chan said:


> Would the cpu temp difference be greater if a vrm block was used?


Not sure how to answer this -

keeping VRMs cool helps keep things stable when pushing the limits. So does it directly affect core temp? idk. does it help when OC'ing to have actively cooled VRMs? most definitely. A ton of heat is dumped to the back of the card as well, so it appears Optimus has decided to not ignore this part of the puzzle. 

i'm 100% on board with a watercooled sammich GPU, Optimus. 30x0 series maybe  ?!


----------



## Section31

I want to try the 20xx optimus block too but economically makes no sense for me. I need to save up for 3080ti and optimus 3080ti gpu block.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> I want to try the 20xx optimus block too but economically makes no sense for me. I need to save up for 3080ti and optimus 3080ti gpu block.


Hi,
Indeed way too late in the game to waste on the 2k series now 
3K around the corner.

Just remember evga is the only manufacture that will transfer warranties if you ever sell it later or within 3 year warranty time.
Making other manufacture cards resell a buyers market since zero warranty is there anymore for anyone but original buyer.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I want to try the 20xx optimus block too but economically makes no sense for me. I need to save up for 3080ti and optimus 3080ti gpu block.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Indeed way too late in the game to waste on the 2k series now
> 3K around the corner.
> 
> Just remember evga is the only manufacture that will transfer warranties if you ever sell it later or within 3 year warranty time.
> Making other manufacture cards resell a buyers market since zero warranty is there anymore for anyone but original buyer.
Click to expand...

Actually it works for nvidia stores ones too. My friend tried on my old gtx1080ti. Worse just pretend to be the original owner (but say you moved)


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Actually it works for nvidia stores ones too. My friend tried on my old gtx1080ti.


Hi,
Tried what ?
Nvidia does not transfer warranties.

If they do I'm sure this fellow would be all ears since he was rejected 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/69-nvidia/1740836-any-way-fix-bad-2080ti-fe.html


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Indeed way too late in the game to waste on the 2k series now
> 3K around the corner.
> 
> Just remember evga is the only manufacture that will transfer warranties if you ever sell it later or within 3 year warranty time.
> Making other manufacture cards resell a buyers market since zero warranty is there anymore for anyone but original buyer.


I always upgrade to the 10 year warranty. That's another advantage of EVGA.


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> I always upgrade to the 10 year warranty. That's another advantage of EVGA.


Hi,
Yeah they have step up to a newer version also within a time frame of buying I don't know how long though.


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah they have step up to a newer version also within a time frame of buying I don't know how long though.


Only 90 days.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Actually it works for nvidia stores ones too. My friend tried on my old gtx1080ti.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Tried what ?
> Nvidia does not transfer warranties.
> 
> If they do I'm sure this fellow would be all ears since he was rejected
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/69-nvidia/1740836-any-way-fix-bad-2080ti-fe.html
Click to expand...

He had an issue with one dp port not working. So i gave him my invoice and he managed to give him an RMA number. He just didn’t want to proceed because he didnt want to take out the block and possibly have to get an 2080 block (as that is the replacement they give).

My case is unique though as he can get my help in resolving the matter. Its easy when you can directly contact the original owner to help out.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> He had an issue with one dp port not working. So* i gave him my invoice and he managed to give him an RMA number.* He just didn’t want to proceed because he didnt want to take out the block and possibly have to get an 2080 block (as that is the replacement they give).


Hi,
I wouldn't count on others being as nice as you though


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> He had an issue with one dp port not working. So* i gave him my invoice and he managed to give him an RMA number.* He just didnâ€™️t want to proceed because he didnt want to take out the block and possibly have to get an 2080 block (as that is the replacement they give).
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> I wouldn't count on others being as nice as you though /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

You can say that again. I actually am about to do something major on hardwareswap canada reddit. list an 7800x/x299 prime/ekwb monoblock for 250cad. Trying to combat the often ridiculous prices of used parts being listed for.


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Look forward to the results post an image or two over here also use rig builder and add it to your signature
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/584302-ocn-water-cooling-club-picture-gallery.html
> 
> BMW alone isn't all that great but a good first stability test
> Opendata is much better which runs bmw and classroom
> 
> https://opendata.blender.org/
> 
> Just mount the signature normally don't bother with goofy mount
> I'd disconnect the pwm from the pump so it runs 100% or dial it to 5 if on a vario D5.
> Jp had good results
> Read though through the thread if haven't already
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-25.html#post28271598
> 
> 
> This is when he thought his koolance block was doing well lol 16c difference between high/ low core temps
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-19.html#post28262876
> 
> Couldn't run much else no avx offset but 4.9 temps I added after forgot to put the temps page up front after running R20 72-82c


Seeing as the benchmark essentially killed itself due to thermal constraints (I have my max set at 110c), I'll take even passing the complete bench as my mark of whether the block is better in that particular scenario. When I went to grab lunch, it was finishing up classroom. No WHEA errors.

Not really picking these tests as a method to check stability, doing them to see the temperature differences between blocks on a baseline water temp (30c.)


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Seeing as the benchmark essentially killed itself due to thermal constraints (I have my max set at 110c), I'll take even passing the complete bench as my mark of whether the block is better in that particular scenario. When I went to grab lunch, it was finishing up classroom. No WHEA errors.
> 
> Not really picking these tests as a method to check stability, doing them to see the temperature differences between blocks on a baseline water temp (30c.)


Hi,
Sure hope that isn't the signature if it is you have a very poor mount :doh:


----------



## tistou77

The 10980XE heats up enormously :devil:
I'm happy to keep my 7980XE delided for now


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> originxt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing as the benchmark essentially killed itself due to thermal constraints (I have my max set at 110c), I'll take even passing the complete bench as my mark of whether the block is better in that particular scenario. When I went to grab lunch, it was finishing up classroom. No WHEA errors.
> 
> Not really picking these tests as a method to check stability, doing them to see the temperature differences between blocks on a baseline water temp (30c.)
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Sure hope that isn't the signature if it is you have a very poor mount /forum/images/smilies/doh.gif
Click to expand...

I wish it was a poor mount. I have no obstructing objects nor do I have any more wiggle room to tighten the screws. I could use a torque wrench but I have a feeling it won't end well.

And yes lol those are all my components barring my wlan card and drives.


----------



## D-EJ915

If they're using avx/avx512 at 48x I could see that lol


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> I wish it was a poor mount. I have no obstructing objects nor do I have any more wiggle room to tighten the screws. I could use a torque wrench but I have a feeling it won't end well.


Hi,
I'd check for bent socket pins.
No way this is right should just need thumb finger tight all the same tension :/

You're not using liquid metal are you ?


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> originxt said:
> 
> 
> 
> I wish it was a poor mount. I have no obstructing objects nor do I have any more wiggle room to tighten the screws. I could use a torque wrench but I have a feeling it won't end well.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> I'd check for bent socket pins.
> No way this is right should just need thumb finger tight all the same tension 😕
> 
> You're not using liquid metal are you ?
Click to expand...

No liquid metal, kryonaut. And I checked for bent pins prior to installation, it's fine.

I'll post a picture of the mount when I get back home. But yeah, the heatkiller is quite an anomoly to me.


----------



## ThrashZone

D-EJ915 said:


> If they're using avx/avx512 at 48x I could see that lol


Hi,
I did 4.8 with no avx offset at 1.25v only one core got to 90c all others still in 80's
https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=318886&d=1579034115


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> No liquid metal, kryonaut. And I checked for bent pins prior to installation, it's fine.


Hi,
Open rma to seller or Intel.

I rma'ed my 9940x over 20c difference in core temps last month. running 4.5 all core at 1.24v


----------



## D-EJ915

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I did 4.8 with no avx offset at 1.25v only one core got to 90c all others still in 80's
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=318886&d=1579034115


Yeah but you have a different CPU dude lol. You may as well be comparing a 7700k with 9900k.


----------



## ThrashZone

D-EJ915 said:


> Yeah but you have a different CPU dude lol.


Hi,
Only thing different is mine is a 14 core 
Intel says the 10 series is different not many others do


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> originxt said:
> 
> 
> 
> No liquid metal, kryonaut. And I checked for bent pins prior to installation, it's fine.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Open rma to seller or Intel.
> 
> I rma'ed my 9940x over 20c difference in core temps last month. running 4.5 all core at 1.24v
Click to expand...

If I do, it eats up my overclock warranty right? Eh we'll see. If the Optimus block doesn't change much then I'll have to think about swapping it.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> If I do, it eats up my overclock warranty right? Eh we'll see. If the Optimus block doesn't change much then I'll have to think about swapping it.


Hi,
I asked before if you were already using the optimus signature 
You really never said yes.


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I asked before if you were already using the optimus signature
> You really never said yes.


Ah my bad. I posted the blender benchmark specifically to show what numbers I had with the heatkiller right now. Going to do the same after I bleed out the system with the new block.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Ah my bad. I posted the blender benchmark specifically to show what numbers I had with the heatkiller right now. Going to do the same after I bleed out the system with the new block.


Hi,
Okay now it's making sense 

So are you mounting that heatkiller 4 pro goofy mount ?
Like the image I show here ?

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-59.html#post28261118


----------



## iunlock

Optimus WC said:


> We've found that springs simply aren't needed anymore. While it was popular in the early days of watercooling, the issues you're worried about don't happen any longer. If you tighten with your fingers until you can't tighten any more, then you'll have the correct pressure. The only way we've found to actually damage the CPU or mobo is using power tools or wrenches.
> 
> With our Signature V2 block, we still include springs until we switch out to the new design. With the springs, they compress 100%, making them basically solid standoffs. The pressure with both mounting systems can be felt easily by finger tightening. If you can't tighten any more, then you're good.
> 
> Ideally, we'd move to a torque driver system similar to the Threadripper socket. But we have yet to find a reasonably priced torque driver. Then we could provide perfect torque for every mount
> 
> EDIT: sorry,what do you mean by "IN" for design? The foundation top can be rotated in any way, it's modular like that


Would you happen to have the torque numbers by any chance? ie... if you were to release a torque wrench, how many lbs. would it be set to? 

Thanks.


----------



## originxt

Are the springs required for mounting. I legitimately can not get the block mounted. I'm going try the heatkiller mount in the meantime.

And yes, I am using the correct mounting screws. The smaller ones.


----------



## iunlock

Hey all,

I did a quick search about the mounting issues with using the V2 Signature springs, and upon testing it myself it's pretty conclusive that the springs are not needed. 

The Foundation block mounting kit works great with the V2 Signature block WITHOUT the springs. 

The V2 Signature mounting kit also works well WITHOUT the springs.

As you can see in the close up pic, I used an extra washer between the TOP and the block arm.

For those curious about the flow ports, the V2 Signature diagram chart does not include the info on the back of the card, whereas the Foundation block (black card) does contain more info as seen in the pics; including the IN and OUT port info.

I've marked the IN and OUT on the white diagram card below and have made a suggestion to include this on their future prints...

Currently in progress: [I've been testing the V2 Signature on my EVGA Z390 DARK with my 9900KS against the EK EVO block that I had on it... so far so good... I'll post the results when the tests are complete.]

One thing is for certain in that the Optimus V2 Signature Block is outperforming the EK block. Most definitely according to my data...

Stay tuned...


----------



## iunlock

originxt said:


> Are the springs required for mounting. I legitimately can not get the block mounted. I'm going try the heatkiller mount in the meantime.
> 
> And yes, I am using the correct mounting screws. The smaller ones.


I just saw your post after submitting my post above.

The springs are NOT needed and the block will mount just fine without them.

As you can see I just used an extra washer between the TOP and block arm and that's it... works perfect. 

When tightening down the TOP I just hand tighten it until it stops, then give it about a 1/4 turn...then I boot up the system and run a Fire Strike bench loop (or any cpu bench will work) and adjust from there. (I usually end up at around 1/2 a turn to 3/4 turn after the stop point at most and the temps are great.)

Once the cpu block is on top of the IHS, there doesn't need to be a ton of pressure so I'd cation in tightening it too much as after a certain point, the extra pressure brings no benefit. 

Hope that helps.


----------



## originxt

I think I'm definitely having mounting pressure issues. I have a stray core flaring to 103ish while the other temps are better. Adjusting the screws brought it down by 4-5 degrees but still way too high for r15. Unsure if its from a stray bubble in the block but I'll have to wait for kryonaut before finishing out. So far I tried mounting with just the screws with similar results. Ill try the heatkiller mount when I have some more paste in while also giving the loop some more time to bleed out air. I should have also cleaned out the block despite the claim they wash it out. Some of the black sponge packing material may have made it into the fins.

So far, looking promising. Might also look into getting another d5 pump except I have no idea where I would even add the thing.

Edit: Errant core issue fixed, must have been a bubble or something. I'm gonna give the loop a week to bleed out. Shook the thing like a washing machine but I guess it still has bubbles.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Heatkiller mount wont work on optimus I tried
You'd have to make larger holes in the mounting bracket for heatkiller bolts.

Ek evo mounts won't work either optimus sits way lower than the evo does so the optimus wont go down far enough 
You'd have to drill a bigger hole on the optimus mounting brackets for the studs
Heatkiller on right optimus middle ek evo left.


----------



## Optimus WC

Yes, the springs are VERY stiff. The stiffness is for performance reasons, with the tradeoff being they're harder to get on. When tightened correctly, the springs basically compress all the way to become posts. That's why we went with the streamlined springless mount on the Foundations. 

*If you purchased the Signature and want the Springless mount, email us and we'll ship it no charge.*


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

my Optimus Signature v2 arrived yesterday - thing feels super solid and looks great. Assuming Amazon sent me the 10980xe that i ordered, will be throwing this thing on today for testing VS Heat Killer.


----------



## Cidious

Don't bother with their customer support. I send them an email and send a message here on the forum. They won't respond even though active on the forum.


----------



## vagrant

I contacted them through support and they got back to me next business day and were super nice.


----------



## originxt

Cidious said:


> Don't bother with their customer support. I send them an email and send a message here on the forum. They won't respond even though active on the forum.


Odd, I got a reply within 2-3 minutes after I sent an email. 

Side note, I managed to get the screws from the original packaging onto the mount. I highly recommend those who have not to do so. While I haven't actually finished testing since I want some more time to have any potential air to bleed out of the block itself, the results of before and after the springs is actually kind of shocking. You can also see my 10 runs with my heatkiller iv pro block on top as well.


----------



## skupples

Cidious said:


> Don't bother with their customer support. I send them an email and send a message here on the forum. They won't respond even though active on the forum.


give them a slight break. They're stupidly busy dealing with growing pains. Trying to fulfill a boat load of back orders, etc. 

I've been waiting on a GPU block for 6 weeks, and looks like it'll be another 2-4. no worries though. bleeding edge hurts. they'll get it buttoned up soon enough.


----------



## iunlock

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, the springs are VERY stiff. The stiffness is for performance reasons, with the tradeoff being they're harder to get on. When tightened correctly, the springs basically compress all the way to become posts. That's why we went with the streamlined springless mount on the Foundations.
> 
> *If you purchased the Signature and want the Springless mount, email us and we'll ship it no charge.*


Are the TOP's designed to be screwed down all the way until it physically can't go any more? ie... Was it designed to where when it physically can't go anymore = the correct mounting pressure? What is the rating of this pressure? 

Regarding the springs, I've tested them on several boards and they are overly stiff and not needed. After hand tightening them (without springs) where the TOP's naturally stop, I can give it less than a 1/2 turn (of mounting pressure) past the point where it naturally stops and even that's enough pressure to provide optimal temps...

I've even tried tightening them down all the way with the springs, which excreted IMO unnecessary force/pressure, past the point of the ~1/2'ish turn past noon with no difference in temps across all cores...

IMO from my own testing, the stand-off's for the V2 Signature work much better without the use of the springs. 

IF, the cpu block did indeed needed the extreme pressure from the springs, that would make total sense, however, the springs do not bring any benefit and only puts extra force in bending the motherboard down when trying to tighten them.

Also, if the springs were actually needed, then it would benefit for the stand-off screw to be a tad bit longer, about ~3mm longer so that the TOP's can easily bite without having to press down too hard. 

When you refer to the springless mount, do you mean the Foundation Mounting kit for the V2 Signature?

As I've posted above, the Foundation mounting kit works perfectly fine with the V2 Signature block as well... really can't go wrong either way..

The ONLY time where it'd matter is if one is using a bare die kit and or in some other custom mounting scenarios. 

Thanks for being active here... appreciate it.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys!


*SPRINGS: * Yes, as "originxt" notes, there is absolutely a performance gain from having the right pressure. The springs are really stiff, but super strong.

*PRESSURE:* Yes, the Foundation springless mount works as well. The reason we changed over to that design is because the springs simply act as big, annoying thumbnuts. Springs are a vestigial throwback to the old days of water cooling and simply aren't needed anymore. But people wanted them so we included them. 

The correct install for any of our blocks: Tighten it down until it can't be tightened any more. 

*CUSTOMER SUPPORT:* We're trying to answer all the questions and stay on top of it. We're a super small company right now, growing fast, and the orders have been better than expected (thanks to all of you!!!). If we don't get back asap, bug us and we'll definitely take care of any issues or questions!


----------



## tistou77

@Optimus WC

News for availability in Europe ?


----------



## Optimus WC

tistou77 said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> News for availability in Europe ?


We're cranking out product for the US market, once we're ahead on production we'll start sending goods to EU.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I'd work out Canada and UK first EU gouging products is a lost cause


----------



## tistou77

Optimus WC said:


> We're cranking out product for the US market, once we're ahead on production we'll start sending goods to EU.


Ok thanks, i thought i read that it was planned for january
Surely in February or March then


----------



## iunlock

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> 
> *SPRINGS: * Yes, as "originxt" notes, there is absolutely a performance gain from having the right pressure. The springs are really stiff, but super strong.
> 
> *PRESSURE:* Yes, the Foundation springless mount works as well. The reason we changed over to that design is because the springs simply act as big, annoying thumbnuts. Springs are a vestigial throwback to the old days of water cooling and simply aren't needed anymore. But people wanted them so we included them.
> 
> The correct install for any of our blocks: Tighten it down until it can't be tightened any more.
> 
> *CUSTOMER SUPPORT:* We're trying to answer all the questions and stay on top of it. We're a super small company right now, growing fast, and the orders have been better than expected (thanks to all of you!!!). If we don't get back asap, bug us and we'll definitely take care of any issues or questions!


Having the right pressure for peak performance is an absolute. What I was referring to was that upon my own testing, the springs are not needed and it did not provide any performance benefit in temps vs having the springs which are overly stiff. 

High mounting pressure becomes more of a factor with XOC applications ... however, for "regular," cooling on air and water it doesn't require the extreme force. 

To each his own and I guess whatever works for the individual, but I am confirming that myself and others have first hand data on the fact that the springs are NOT needed and that even a 1/4 turn after the stopping point provides the same temps as oppose to using the springs + tightened all the way down. Of course the mileage can vary depending on ones set up, but for typical set ups it is what is.

No springs. Not required. Doesn't provide any extra benefit.

Since it is said that the TOP's are designed to be able to screw all the way down, there is no worry of overtightening. Can you please confirm that the TOP's are designed that way?

Thank you.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

really curious to see if these guys can crank out a quality EVGA 2080 Ti Kingpin block... just got the Bykski block installed tonight and oddly the card is clocking much slower with Nvidia's OC Scanner than my previous janky setup of an EK VGA Supremacy block on the GPU, some copper heatsinks on the memory chips, and stock VRM heatsinks + fan.

With the jank setup, OC Scanner got it up to 2150mhz, but with this Bykski block it only clocked up to 2085mhz. Temps all seem as good or better so I'm confused for sure. 

Come on Optimus, don't fail me now.


----------



## Shawnb99

Kalm_Traveler said:


> really curious to see if these guys can crank out a quality EVGA 2080 Ti Kingpin block... just got the Bykski block installed tonight and oddly the card is clocking much slower with Nvidia's OC Scanner than my previous janky setup of an EK VGA Supremacy block on the GPU, some copper heatsinks on the memory chips, and stock VRM heatsinks + fan.
> 
> With the jank setup, OC Scanner got it up to 2150mhz, but with this Bykski block it only clocked up to 2085mhz. Temps all seem as good or better so I'm confused for sure.
> 
> Come on Optimus, don't fail me now.


They are working on one. I'm awaiting the FTW3 block myself. Hopefully it'll be out soon.


----------



## Richforbroke

Just received my shipment confirmation on my AMD silver/acrylic block! Super excited to finish my first watercool build. Thanks Optimus.


----------



## Zurv

Kalm_Traveler said:


> really curious to see if these guys can crank out a quality EVGA 2080 Ti Kingpin block... just got the Bykski block installed tonight and oddly the card is clocking much slower with Nvidia's OC Scanner than my previous janky setup of an EK VGA Supremacy block on the GPU, some copper heatsinks on the memory chips, and stock VRM heatsinks + fan.
> 
> With the jank setup, OC Scanner got it up to 2150mhz, but with this Bykski block it only clocked up to 2085mhz. Temps all seem as good or better so I'm confused for sure.
> 
> Come on Optimus, don't fail me now.


2150-2175 is normally where i end up with the crappy flow killing EVGA blocks. ("24/7" what i normal play games at)
Are running with the fully unlocked bios? (that is what i use. That said the cards will suck up a ton of power without limits  )
also don't forget to update the firmware of the card too (different than the bios. It comes with the evga precision x1) 


i've so love to clean up this nightmare of a loop with Optimus blocks


----------



## skupples

i like the yuyu tho. Cool way to handle it


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Zurv said:


> 2150-2175 is normally where i end up with the crappy flow killing EVGA blocks. ("24/7" what i normal play games at)
> Are running with the fully unlocked bios? (that is what i use. That said the cards will suck up a ton of power without limits  )
> also don't forget to update the firmware of the card too (different than the bios. It comes with the evga precision x1)
> 
> 
> i've so love to clean up this nightmare of a loop with Optimus blocks


thank you as always! 

I've been using the OC bios always, haven't flashed the unlocked BIOS yet. 70% sure I updated the firmware with Precision X1 last month when I first got the rig set up, but can definitely check again now. Just really confused how with the same or better temps, clocks would be so much worse... 

and i bet a quality Optimus block would help


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> Optimus 4 Life!!


LOL! DAMN RIGHT!


----------



## oreonutz

OK, FINALLY, I am about to start my testing, if anyone cares, between The Optimus AM4 Foundation Block, an EK Phoenix Block (Which is itself the EK Supremacy Block, just with a Taller Block Top; Source Below), The Alphacool Eisblock, and I want to throw in a Heat Killer Block since that seems to be the most recommended for Zen2 after the Optimus Block. I have refrained from Ordering it up until now because I was waiting until my companies next requisition of parts so I could put it on the Company card, and that time is now. So I went to add it to my order, And I realized, I have no idea which Heat Killer Block is the Best for Zen2. 

Can someone direct me which model of the Heatkiller Block they want to see compared against the Optimus Block for Zen 2?

I will be doing all testing in my Lab Under Controlled Conditions. I will be using a Static Amount of Voltage, for a Target of 150a and 180a on the 3900x, as measured with a Current Clamp on the EPS Rail. All Testing will be done on the Crosshair VI Hero, with the same exact Profile loaded at the BIOS, but will be doing a Print out of all BIOS Settings before each run of Testing, to ensure all Voltages and Settings are set exactly the same. Ambient and Water Temperatures will be Logged through K Type Thermal Couples on my Thermometer, which will be plugged into a second PC, which will be logging Temperatures every 500ms. All Temperatures will be given as Delta Over Ambient. After Compiling my Data and Making Sense of it all, I will be putting it in Semi-Easy to read Charts, and posting about it on this forum.

I will be starting this testing this upcoming weekend (Hopefully), So Assuming I can get the Testing Done before Monday, I will have Results posted to this forum by the Following Weekend.

I really want to include the Heatkiller Block in this Round Up, so would love if recommendations on the exact one to pick up. Thank You

EDIT: Also, will be testing the the 2700x as well, to see if the results at all change, with previous Zen Designs.

Source:


Tom's Hardware said:


> ...Two CPU water blocks are available for the Phoenix system: one for Intel/AM4 sockets and one for the TR4 socket. Both blocks are based off of EK’s Supremacy block, which was also used in the Predator series, but the block top has been changed to a taller one...
> https://www.tomshardware.com/news/ekwb-reveals-phoenix-aio-series,35996.html


----------



## iunlock

oreonutz said:


> OK, FINALLY, I am about to start my testing, if anyone cares, between The Optimus AM4 Foundation Block, an EK Phoenix Block (Which is itself the EK Supremacy Block, just with a Taller Block Top; Source Below), The Alphacool Eisblock, and I want to throw in a Heat Killer Block since that seems to be the most recommended for Zen2 after the Optimus Block. I have refrained from Ordering it up until now because I was waiting until my companies next requisition of parts so I could put it on the Company card, and that time is now. So I went to add it to my order, And I realized, I have no idea which Heat Killer Block is the Best for Zen2.
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone direct me which model of the Heatkiller Block they want to see compared against the Optimus Block for Zen 2?
> 
> 
> 
> I will be doing all testing in my Lab Under Controlled Conditions. I will be using a Static Amount of Voltage, for a Target of 150a and 180a on the 3900x, as measured with a Current Clamp on the EPS Rail. All Testing will be done on the Crosshair VI Hero, with the same exact Profile loaded at the BIOS, but will be doing a Print out of all BIOS Settings before each run of Testing, to ensure all Voltages and Settings are set exactly the same. Ambient and Water Temperatures will be Logged through K Type Thermal Couples on my Thermometer, which will be plugged into a second PC, which will be logging Temperatures every 500ms. All Temperatures will be given as Delta Over Ambient. After Compiling my Data and Making Sense of it all, I will be putting it in Semi-Easy to read Charts, and posting about it on this forum.
> 
> 
> 
> I will be starting this testing this upcoming weekend (Hopefully), So Assuming I can get the Testing Done before Monday, I will have Results posted to this forum by the Following Weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> I really want to include the Heatkiller Block in this Round Up, so would love if recommendations on the exact one to pick up. Thank You
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also, will be testing the the 2700x as well, to see if the results at all change, with previous Zen Designs.
> 
> 
> 
> Source:


Looking forward to it. I've just completed my testing between the V2 Signature vs the EK EVO blocks.... Compiling all the data now...


----------



## oreonutz

iunlock said:


> Looking forward to it. I've just completed my testing between the V2 Signature vs the EK EVO blocks.... Compiling all the data now...


Hell yeah! Looking Forward to your Data! +REP


So, Still waiting, hoping someone has a strong opinion on which to get. I know the Heatkiller IV is pretty much my only option, but I don't know if there is an opinion as to which of these is best for the 2 CCD Layout, I want to make sure I put up Heatkiller's Best against Optimus Best for the Zen2 Chip.

My tendancy is to just go for the most expensive, but because I don't have any experience at all with Heatkiller Products, and I know we have quite a few of you experienced with them, was hoping you guys would give me those nuanced points as to which of the following HeatKiller Block is best for a specific reason, or just let me know that there is no difference;

AM4 Copper Nickel:
https://www.amazon.com/Watercool-HEATKILLER-Waterblock-Compatible-Copper/dp/B01NBYIRZX/ref=

AM4 Acrylic:
https://www.amazon.com/Watercool-18014-HEATKILLER-Ready-Cooling/dp/B07843P77Y/ref=

AM4 Acrylic Clean:
https://www.amazon.com/Watercool-HEATKILLER-Waterblock-Compatible-Acryl/dp/B01MR9SISY/ref=

Am4 Pure Copper:
https://www.amazon.com/Watercool-18012-HEATKILLER-Copper-Cooling/dp/B01N5SWWHO/ref=

Or if there is one I missed that is better. Please let me know, want to get it ordered tonight so its here by this weekend.


----------



## Section31

Why dont i just lend you my heatkiller cpu iv black nickel for testing. Mine is sitting unused since im using optimus for both my ryzens 3000 cpus.

I would suggest using the swiftech heirloom/aquacomputer kryos next cpu block. They perform one-two degrees better than the heatkiller. I actually gave an friend my heirloom block.


----------



## oreonutz

Section31 said:


> Why dont i just lend you my heatkiller cpu iv black nickel for testing. Mine is sitting unused since im using optimus for both my ryzens 3000 cpus.
> 
> I would suggest using the swiftech heirloom/aquacomputer kryos next cpu block. They perform one-two degrees better than the heatkiller. I actually gave an friend my heirloom block.


Well This is a :doh:

LOL!

I just came here to post that, I did a little research on the topic, and it appears it makes no difference as to which Heatkiller IV Pro I get, so I got...









I Do seriously appreciate your offer, and would definitely take you up on it. If I remember correctly you live in Canada though, so I am not sure how much of a nightmare they make shipping Blocks across the border for loaning purposes. Still, I kinda wish I hadn't gotten impatient...


----------



## skupples

y'all making me trigger happy to replace my EK cpu block while i'm swapping the GPU cooler. Hmmmm.

also, side note - gotta love amazon TV & hulu. both included with other services, n both more than adequate over netflix. Been watching Farscape. I'm not sure how I missed it as a kid, but this show is epic.


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> y'all making me trigger happy to replace my EK cpu block while i'm swapping the GPU cooler. Hmmmm.
> 
> also, side note - gotta love amazon TV & hulu. both included with other services, n both more than adequate over netflix. Been watching Farscape. I'm not sure how I missed it as a kid, but this show is epic.


DUDE! I haven't seen Farscape in AGES!!!!

I am a HUGE Trekkie, and anything Sci-Fi can usually grab my attention. I usually watch nothing but TNG or Deep Space Nine Episodes, mixed in every now and again with Voyager and Enterprise. But lately I have been dosing in some Firefly, going to have to add Farscape to Rotation. 

Anyone catch the first episode of Picard?

Sorry, Off Topic, I know... Blocks should be here this week, Can't wait to get to testing!


----------



## Section31

Lol. Stay on topic. 

Picard is interesting, see what direction they go. Its definitely not TNG and seems like more realistic take on TNG. Not as happy feeling as TNG but if you think about it, going through two borg invasion, dominion war and the rebuilding required (cardassia, betazed, benyzte, etc) then utopia plantasia being destoyed and romulus blown up all in the span of 30years , I can’t blame the federation for becoming lot less naive and nice. 

Though i thought this really makes voyager series finale even odder. I know it was written before st09 but it makes Admiral Janeway decision to bring voyager home earlier seem really selfish. That and seven was suppose to have died in that timeline too. The writing in voyager was bad i know. 

Its on cbs app in usa, crave in canada and amazon globally. I think you can just wait for the 10 episodes to be released and then do an trial run.


----------



## Cidious

They still haven't responded to any of my emails or messages. This company can forget about my money then. I asked a simple questions if they could ship to China directly. How to get one here. They refuse to answer me even a simple response. Tried different channels of reaching them. 

I'll stick to the more known and proven brands then. I highly question the too small micro channels anyway for 24/7 usage and them clogging up soon enough with oxidation at the bare minimum. The mounting system is questionable too. They could have just made it compatible with the stock mounting bracket. Instead using some proprietary system is disappointing to say the least too. 

A big disappointment in general without me even getting the opportunity to check their claims of such a huge temperature drop compared to other blocks.


----------



## oreonutz

Cidious said:


> They still haven't responded to any of my emails or messages. This company can forget about my money then. I asked a simple questions if they could ship to China directly. How to get one here. They refuse to answer me even a simple response. Tried different channels of reaching them.
> 
> I'll stick to the more known and proven brands then. I highly question the too small micro channels anyway for 24/7 usage and them clogging up soon enough with oxidation at the bare minimum. The mounting system is questionable too. They could have just made it compatible with the stock mounting bracket. Instead using some proprietary system is disappointing to say the least too.
> 
> A big disappointment in general without me even getting the opportunity to check their claims of such a huge temperature drop compared to other blocks.


Interesting. Try really hard to get a hold of a company because you really want a product. Something goes wrong and communication doesn't happen, then all the sudden the product you really wanted before, is all the sudden inferior and you question its quality.... Hmmmm...

Also curious that you would have so many issues, as I reach out to them pretty often about little things, and I never fail to get a response same day, as well as them being very active here, right in this thread...

Not saying you haven't tried, they have obviously been extremely busy, but I don't see them just straight up ignoring you. Also, If they can't ship direct to Europe right now, as they literally just made a post saying they are focusing on North American Orders for the time being, I highly doubt a quick fast ship to China is in their cards. If you know someone here in the states, you would be much better off having them order it, and then shipping it to you.

But, this is an inferior product, thats design is flawed, so there would be no reason for you to want it...



Section31 said:


> Lol. Stay on topic.
> 
> Picard is interesting, see what direction they go. Its definitely not TNG and seems like more realistic take on TNG. Not as happy feeling as TNG but if you think about it, going through two borg invasion, dominion war and the rebuilding required (cardassia, betazed, benyzte, etc) then utopia plantasia being destoyed and romulus blown up all in the span of 30years , I can’t blame the federation for becoming lot less naive and nice.
> 
> Though i thought this really makes voyager series finale even odder. I know it was written before st09 but it makes Admiral Janeway decision to bring voyager home earlier seem really selfish. That and seven was suppose to have died in that timeline too. The writing in voyager was bad i know.
> 
> Its on cbs app in usa, crave in canada and amazon globally. I think you can just wait for the 10 episodes to be released and then do an trial run.


All I will say on where to get it, is I refuse to give CBS my money until they prove they can do a Star Trek Show Correct...


Spoiler



If they don't ruin the Character of Picard for me, I will subscribe for season 2, Until then, I have other means of obtaining it same day, exactly the same quality as their streams.

Yeah, even though its not the normal tone for Star Fleet and the Federation, earth has definitely been there before, if you recall the last season of Enterprise, and our own real History, the premise of the show, plus the Federations recent history, makes the premise believable. Although I do love TNG for its Optimistic take on what the Future could look like, I do not mind exploring the darker sides of Humanity. DS9 did that perfectly, and I think this series has a chance at doing it properly. Star Trek has always had social commentary, so I really don't even mind that aspect, as long as they don't over due it, and make it woke for woke's sake, and not actually have a meaning and purpose behind it. The First episode for me was really good. I know a lot of people out there were disappointed, but I think so far they are on a good track. I am not like a lot of people out there these days who will hate on anything that gets put out, if its good and doesn't change the meaning of Trek and try to turn it into something else, I will be fine with it, I just want it to be good, and I want to see Picard at his best. In my opinion its there show to mess up, or really blow us away, I hope its the Latter.



Anyways, what are you doing man, You are Supposed to stay on TOPIC!!! 

Can't wait for my blocks to arrive... I just hope that... Its -Not- a FAKE!!!!!!


----------



## Section31

You did bring up point, someone needs to test it with the swiftech heirloom blocks. Its also one of the newer blocks with thinner microfins. The difference is its lot higher hit on the flow front.

Actually i still have an heirloom block with friend that has an leak somewhere. That or i should swap him an heatkiller for that block next time he does upgrade. Its literally an iron man looking cpu block.


----------



## Cidious

oreonutz said:


> Interesting. Try really hard to get a hold of a company because you really want a product. Something goes wrong and communication doesn't happen, then all the sudden the product you really wanted before, is all the sudden inferior and you question its quality.... Hmmmm...
> 
> Also curious that you would have so many issues, as I reach out to them pretty often about little things, and I never fail to get a response same day, as well as them being very active here, right in this thread...
> 
> Not saying you haven't tried, they have obviously been extremely busy, but I don't see them just straight up ignoring you. Also, If they can't ship direct to Europe right now, as they literally just made a post saying they are focusing on North American Orders for the time being, I highly doubt a quick fast ship to China is in their cards. If you know someone here in the states, you would be much better off having them order it, and then shipping it to you.
> 
> But, this is an inferior product, thats design is flawed, so there would be no reason for you to want it...


Very skeptical about the bold claims they throw around so happy to make an honest review. I can compare with a couple of blocks myself. But if they are not willing to reach out The initial thoughts that I have about their products will stand. They won't give me the opportunity to dismiss them. Not my fault. Logical thinking comes to my above assumptions. I wish they'd prove me wrong.

So far they are even reluctant to reply my messages. Doesn't prove them much of a reliable company also on top of their questionable marketing claiming 6-8 degrees lower temperatures on their website...


----------



## Kana Chan

Cidious said:


> Doesn't prove them much of a reliable company also on top of their questionable marketing claiming 6-8 degrees lower temperatures on their website...


They never once said that? ( Clarification 15-20 pages back )



oreonutz said:


> Can't wait for my blocks to arrive...


Are you doing a dual pump comparison?


----------



## ThrashZone

Cidious said:


> They still haven't responded to any of my emails or messages. This company can forget about my money then. I asked a simple questions if they could ship to China directly. How to get one here. They refuse to answer me even a simple response. Tried different channels of reaching them.
> 
> I'll stick to the more known and proven brands then. I highly question the too small micro channels anyway for 24/7 usage and them clogging up soon enough with oxidation at the bare minimum. The mounting system is questionable too. They could have just made it compatible with the stock mounting bracket. Instead using some proprietary system is disappointing to say the least too.
> 
> A big disappointment in general without me even getting the opportunity to check their claims of such a huge temperature drop compared to other blocks.


Hi,
International shipping is never really predictable 
I've bought through Germany and they have to use paypal to handle the transaction from U.S. so I'd guess optimus would also have to have someone handle the transaction.
Email support though no telling what happened there 
You did write to them in English ?

Yeah not sure about huge temp drops but then again I do not have a optimus signature block either only the foundation 
Which was 2-3c better than heatkiller 4 pro copper plexi.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-59.html#post28261118

Jpmboy had some good results with a signature against a koolance 380i he loved he core temps tightened up nicely even with the foundation he bought just as mine did.

Have to read a bit for testing he did here 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-19.html#post28262876
Signature start
https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-35.html#post28282088


----------



## oreonutz

Section31 said:


> You did bring up point, someone needs to test it with the swiftech heirloom blocks. Its also one of the newer blocks with thinner microfins. The difference is its lot higher hit on the flow front.
> 
> Actually i still have an heirloom block with friend that has an leak somewhere. That or i should swap him an heatkiller for that block next time he does upgrade. Its literally an iron man looking cpu block.


Technically, @skupples brought up Point, I just took it and ran with it, lol!

Well damnit, I only got the Heatkiller because it was the one I happened to notice people saying was the best for Zen 2, next to Optimus. I wouldn't mind testing the Swift Tech Either. I bought the Eisblock originally because it did well with Testing that Igor With Igor's Lab did, then not even a month after I got that, I heard about the Optimus Block. How much is the Heirloom, if not too crazy I will throw in an order for it today. 



Cidious said:


> Very skeptical about the bold claims they throw around so happy to make an honest review. I can compare with a couple of blocks myself. But if they are not willing to reach out The initial thoughts that I have about their products will stand. They won't give me the opportunity to dismiss them. Not my fault. Logical thinking comes to my above assumptions. I wish they'd prove me wrong.
> 
> So far they are even reluctant to reply my messages. Doesn't prove them much of a reliable company also on top of their questionable marketing claiming 6-8 degrees lower temperatures on their website...


I hear you man, we all want to see reviews, but as it is now we have had multiple respectable people who have had a long honest history on this site test them, and so far I haven't seen one bad result. The worst result I have seen still was a few degree's better than the block they tested it against, so clearly this block does give you better results, its the same experience I have had already, just haven't had the chance to do proper testing yet.

That said, its still up in the air to see how it does over time, the quality does appear to be far above average, but we will have to see where it stands as time goes on. There are people who have been rocking the Intel Blocks for over a year now who seem to be having no problems, so that does say something.

As far as the communication, I am sorry man, I don't have an answer for you. I know that every single time I have reached out, even about trivial stuff they have responded, usually same day. I would encourage you to try again. But I would caution you to not expect them to have a method to ship direct to China, they haven't even had a chance to work out EU and UK shipping yet, and are still back ordered on US Orders, and we are in the same country, so I don't forsee them being able to get it to you within a reasonable time frame. That said, like I said earlier, if you have a US Based friend, it shouldn't be too hard for you to have it shipped to the US address, and have your friend forward it to you. As far as Trusted 3rd party reviews, word on the street is they are coming, so stay tuned on that front...



Kana Chan said:


> They never once said that? ( Clarification 15-20 pages back )
> 
> 
> 
> Are you doing a dual pump comparison?


My Test Bench does not have a Second Pump, but That doesn't mean I couldn't add one. Anecdotally, I just added a 2nd D5 to my Workstation Loop, and I definitely have seen a noticable dip in Temps, about a 1.5c delta when accounting for ambient by adding the D5 in series. Compared to the Eisblock (The Block I switched to the Optimus from) The Flow Rate was already increased through the Optimus Block (152 l/h average on the Eisblock, 167 l/h on the Optimus), which tells me the Optimus was at least less restrictive then the Eisblock. Once switching to the Dual D5 in Series, the Flowrate has increased to 182 l/h average in my loop, and cranks up to 210 l/h when all 3 Pumps run at Full Tilt (I also still have an SPC Pump in the Loop that only turns on when the Load on the CPU hits 78c). I unfortunately do not currently have a way of measuring Head Pressure in my loop, but plan on adding that in the future. 

Anyways, I wouldn't mind adding that as a variable in my controlled Tests, I don't know if I will have time to add that in my First test, it will just be a simple Loop, D5/Res to CPU, to 280mm HWL 30mm Thick Rad, back to Pump/Res, using 10/16mm Tubing, with very short runs, also using only 2 90 Degree Fittings, so far less restrictive then my every day system, which has a lot more tubing and 90 Degree Fittings everywhere.

However, if people want to see I will add a second pump and follow up the following Weekend with that testing.


----------



## skupples

LOL! folks are never gonna give up on their "but the tiny channels!" bit, which I find hilarious because I can't even begin to count the # of times people in the EK club have said "if only they'd make a bigger more finite cold plate" 

insert optimus and HK doing that and "Rabble rabble rabble, they're gonna rust and not work!"

you should probably evaluate more than what block you're using if you're experiencing oxidation extreme enough to clog your channels. (or just get the nickel variant, n only ever have to worry about minor discoloration that wipes right off)

also, Picard #1 is on Amazon? brb.... hmm shield prime shows it, but won't play it. its esentially an add to sign up for CBS.

no thanks


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> LOL! folks are never gonna give up on their "but the tiny channels!" bit, which I find hilarious because I can't even begin to count the # of times people in the EK club have said "if only they'd make a bigger more finite cold plate"
> 
> insert optimus and HK doing that and "Rabble rabble rabble, they're gonna rust and not work!"
> 
> you should probably evaluate more than what block you're using if you're experiencing oxidation extreme enough to clog your channels.


Hi,
Not really the problem with ek evo or possibly their new one that the name escapes me atm 

But I know the ek evo just has too many other routes the water can go besides where it supposed to go though the finned area
Guess ek knows if you use their fluid the cooling fins will be clogged in start order so those alternative routes are needed otherwise you'd blow off a hose at the cpu block


----------



## skupples

i'm willing to bet that guy believes the micro-fins are so small that nickel plating all but fills them, rendering them useless.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Everyone knows copper cold plates rule nickle is just pretty longer


----------



## skupples

prettier, and doesn't require as much maintenance. 

a full nickel loop is essentially fool proof, specially with Mayhems running.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> prettier, and doesn't require as much maintenance.
> 
> a full nickel loop is essentially fool proof, specially with Mayhems running.


Hi,
Maybe optimus nickle but nothing so far has been fool proof plus I just don't like nickle or chrome look.

If I ever got a signature block I'd likely sand/ buff the nickle off


----------



## skupples

the only thing keeping me from pulling the trigger on an intel block is that this is likely my last intel platform for a few moons.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> prettier, and doesn't require as much maintenance.
> 
> 
> 
> a full nickel loop is essentially fool proof, specially with Mayhems running.




I want a full silver loop


----------



## skupples

van helsing themed, please.


----------



## qes27

oreonutz said:


> I don't see them just straight up ignoring you


You're not wrong to say it's fairly obvious there's no shipping to China, or that it's disingenuous to take issue with the product quality only after rabidly trying to acquire one. Optimus no doubt employs fewer people than most any established company's support department, are busy getting new product out the door, and they are active here.

That said, I put in a support request through Optimus's website and never got any kind of response back whatsoever. 

For the majority of people who aren't going to go find an enthusiast forum where the vendor happens to be active, it's easy to see how that creates a bad impression. On the other hand, it might be a useful filter for now, given Optimus's small size.


----------



## skupples

^^ new company means the marketing & CS is likely being done by someone much more involved than just sitting around waiting on a queue to populate. 

still strange they've been silent. Curious what we don't know.


----------



## Shawnb99

Could be they just missed the request. I’m sure they are getting a fair amount of them atm


----------



## LiquidHaus

Being a Social Marketing Manager for a very decently sized company in the automotive industry for years, I can assure you that the reason they might be "silent" is because they're super busy getting customers their orders out. Being that they're still pretty new, the pricing for their products is REALLY nice with the quality they're pumping out, so I doubt there's many people employed there, which means whoever is on the other end of their typing, it's probably one of the owners or main engineers. It's not a dedicated customer service agent or a sales team. It's the original people in the company being jack-of-all-trades.

I ordered the AMD Foundations and Intel Foundations Blocks last night, both Nickel XE with the Acrylic and Black Aluminum finish.

I'll have to consider how to setup their reservoirs in a future client build or the like too. I can dig their fittings but I'm so set in stone over how much I can appreciate the Monsoon EV2 fitting design that it's currently impossible for me to branch out to other rigid tubing fittings.


----------



## Richforbroke

Agreed @LiquidHaus. I didn't receive a response to two of my PMs asking about order status but Optimus pretty much eventually answered it in this thread. They are a small, growing company that have grown quickly in popularity and probably unable to keep up with the flood of PMs, emails, and orders they are receiving at the moment.

This is just part of supporting a small company so I'm definitely more patient and understanding.


----------



## skupples

gotta wonder how many sites they're maintaining an active thread on too. OCN's rather backwater these days. 

My guess, from the start, is his mass update posts are to include obligatory PMs and in-thread questions, all at the same time. 

point - let them work. The sooner all of us get our stuff, the sooner everyone else starts getting stuff on time.


----------



## Section31

I just found out one of my friend is also getting optimus gpu block based on posts here. He already got the signature intel v2 block and he is looking at optimus 12mm fittings too. In total, i got two friends that followed me and are going optimus. I also got couple of my other friends will probably go optimus when they do there rebuild in couple years.


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> LOL! folks are never gonna give up on their "but the tiny channels!" bit, which I find hilarious because I can't even begin to count the # of times people in the EK club have said "if only they'd make a bigger more finite cold plate"
> 
> insert optimus and HK doing that and "Rabble rabble rabble, they're gonna rust and not work!"
> 
> you should probably evaluate more than what block you're using if you're experiencing oxidation extreme enough to clog your channels. (or just get the nickel variant, n only ever have to worry about minor discoloration that wipes right off)
> 
> also, Picard #1 is on Amazon? brb.... hmm shield prime shows it, but won't play it. its esentially an add to sign up for CBS.
> 
> no thanks


Completely 100 Percent Agree with this Entire Statement.

Also, Unfortunately, Picard has to be watched on CBS all Access in the States, and then Canada has its own way of watching it, every where else other than North America its available on Amazon.

That said, you are the Homie. You want to watch it? PM me, I got your back.


----------



## oreonutz

qes27 said:


> You're not wrong to say it's fairly obvious there's no shipping to China, or that it's disingenuous to take issue with the product quality only after rabidly trying to acquire one. Optimus no doubt employs fewer people than most any established company's support department, are busy getting new product out the door, and they are active here.
> 
> That said, I put in a support request through Optimus's website and never got any kind of response back whatsoever.
> 
> For the majority of people who aren't going to go find an enthusiast forum where the vendor happens to be active, it's easy to see how that creates a bad impression. On the other hand, it might be a useful filter for now, given Optimus's small size.


Yeah I 100 Percent get that. I am sure its something they intend to address soon. I am sure @Optimus WC will pop up in this forum soon and address it, I am almost certain it has to do with them all being tied up getting orders out. But hopefully they will be able to expand and hire dedicated support staff soon, before the no response issue gets out of hand.

I have found that they have been incredibly responsive with me, so if they haven't addressed your issue yet, I would encourage you to just send an email again, maybe they are having an issue with their email (That kind of thing does happen from time to time), so its prudent to send another one with the same request and hopefully you hear back.


----------



## dwolvin

OCN might not be huge, but I've not found a better site for watercooling in the last couple of years.

free $.02...


----------



## Zurv

OCN lost a ton of people when the site turned to slow-crapfest for like a year  
I still like it because I see the same faces that i've been seeing for years and I can trust their feedback.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys!

Yes, heads down getting everything out the door. We'll be caught up with Foundation AM4s this week, if we aren't already. DM me if it's an question that hasn't gotten a response, we're discovering some stuff has been getting filtered by spam. 

In any case, I'll be on OCN daily, the last few weeks were a lot of traveling and special projects. So ask away!!


----------



## qes27

oreonutz said:


> Yeah I 100 Percent get that. I am sure its something they intend to address soon. I am sure @Optimus WC will pop up in this forum soon and address it, I am almost certain it has to do with them all being tied up getting orders out. But hopefully they will be able to expand and hire dedicated support staff soon, before the no response issue gets out of hand.
> 
> I have found that they have been incredibly responsive with me, so if they haven't addressed your issue yet, I would encourage you to just send an email again, maybe they are having an issue with their email (That kind of thing does happen from time to time), so its prudent to send another one with the same request and hopefully you hear back.


It's all good - it wasn't so important or urgent that I needed to query again, and my question was answered in this thread later anyway. If they're so busy it got missed I didn't want to add more to their pile. But I also thought it was worth validating that other poster's experience.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Signature V2 on the way. 

$300 CAD for now and I expect to pay some duty after. Expensive just for a cpu block, but the OCN hype train got to me. LoL Bought it from PPCS. Switching out an EK Supremacy EVO. I wanted to switch out the EK as I haven't really liked the quality of products from the company for a while now. Was thinking Heatkiller Pro IV, but went with the Optimus instead.


----------



## J7SC

MrTOOSHORT said:


> Signature V2 on the way.
> 
> $300 CAD for now and I expect to pay some duty after. *Expensive just for a cpu block, but the OCN hype train got to me. LoL* Bought it from PPCS. Switching out an EK Supremacy EVO. I wanted to switch out the EK as I haven't really liked the quality of products from the company for a while now. Was thinking Heatkiller Pro IV, but went with the Optimus instead.


 
Fortunately, I am allergic to hype trains, and C$300 + duties is about the same as a nice bottle of 21 year old whisk(e)y in the Great White North  ...You are right about EK though, their quality/ performance seems to have suffered a bit over the last few years.


----------



## Optimus WC

We're designing a hype train now, it's powered by RGBs and it's AMAZING


----------



## Richforbroke

Teaser pic. CPU Block comes in on Fri. Build will be finished next week


----------



## Optimus WC

Richforbroke said:


> Teaser pic. CPU Block comes in on Fri. Build will be finished next week 😊


Love it!! That super clean mounting is one of the main design goals of the reservoir. Glad to see someone doing it


----------



## Kana Chan

Shawnb99 said:


> I want a full silver loop


A silver coldplate? The silver AC Kyros on tpu is 1.5C ( 40.15 vs 41.65 ) lower than the copper version. Difference could be a bit more on higher wattage cpus?



oreonutz said:


> My Test Bench does not have a Second Pump, but That doesn't mean I couldn't add one. Anecdotally, I just added a 2nd D5 to my Workstation Loop, and I definitely have seen a noticable dip in Temps, about a 1.5c delta when accounting for ambient by adding the D5 in series. Compared to the Eisblock (The Block I switched to the Optimus from) The Flow Rate was already increased through the Optimus Block (152 l/h average on the Eisblock, 167 l/h on the Optimus), which tells me the Optimus was at least less restrictive then the Eisblock. Once switching to the Dual D5 in Series, the Flowrate has increased to 182 l/h average in my loop, and cranks up to 210 l/h when all 3 Pumps run at Full Tilt (I also still have an SPC Pump in the Loop that only turns on when the Load on the CPU hits 78c). I unfortunately do not currently have a way of measuring Head Pressure in my loop, but plan on adding that in the future.
> 
> Anyways, I wouldn't mind adding that as a variable in my controlled Tests, I don't know if I will have time to add that in my First test, it will just be a simple Loop, D5/Res to CPU, to 280mm HWL 30mm Thick Rad, back to Pump/Res, using 10/16mm Tubing, with very short runs, also using only 2 90 Degree Fittings, so far less restrictive then my every day system, which has a lot more tubing and 90 Degree Fittings everywhere.
> 
> However, if people want to see I will add a second pump and follow up the following Weekend with that testing.


 Interesting. So in dual pump comparisons, there would be a greater performance delta.


----------



## Shawnb99

MrTOOSHORT said:


> Signature V2 on the way.
> 
> 
> 
> $300 CAD for now and I expect to pay some duty after. Expensive just for a cpu block, but the OCN hype train got to me. LoL Bought it from PPCS. Switching out an EK Supremacy EVO. I wanted to switch out the EK as I haven't really liked the quality of products from the company for a while now. Was thinking Heatkiller Pro IV, but went with the Optimus instead.




Only duty we pay is taxes.


----------



## Section31

MrTOOSHORT said:


> Signature V2 on the way.
> 
> $300 CAD for now and I expect to pay some duty after. Expensive just for a cpu block, but the OCN hype train got to me. LoL/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif Bought it from PPCS. Switching out an EK Supremacy EVO. I wanted to switch out the EK as I haven't really liked the quality of products from the company for a while now. Was thinking Heatkiller Pro IV, but went with the Optimus instead. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


No duty. Just 10cad processing fee plus gst/pst/hst


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> We're designing a hype train now, it's powered by RGBs and it's AMAZING


Sign me up for 2 Please! I always wanted my own Hype Train! AND RGB!!! I will take 3 Now! TY!


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> We're designing a hype train now, it's powered by RGBs and it's AMAZING




You had me until you said RGB


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> You had me until you said RGB


LOL! How much you want to bet Shawn has a closet somewhere with a Chainlock on it, and if we picked it and open it, we will get hit with the Brightest Rainbow Puke RGB We have ever seen! 

He says he hates RGB, but Deep down he has an obsession, that he just can't control! lol


----------



## ThrashZone

MrTOOSHORT said:


> Signature V2 on the way.
> 
> $300 CAD for now and I expect to pay some duty after. Expensive just for a cpu block, but the OCN hype train got to me. LoL Bought it from PPCS. Switching out an EK Supremacy EVO. I wanted to switch out the EK as I haven't really liked the quality of products from the company for a while now. Was thinking Heatkiller Pro IV, but went with the Optimus instead.


Hi,
Welcome to the optimus borg


----------



## ciarlatano

Shawnb99 said:


> You had me until you said RGB


I thought exactly the same. This should help temper my wanting to buy a block that I really don't need at the moment.


----------



## oreonutz

ciarlatano said:


> I thought exactly the same. This should help temper my wanting to buy a block that I really don't need at the moment.


LOL! You both have a fetish for RGB. I see right through your shannigans!

Luckily Optimus feels the same way you do, I doubt we will ever see RGB on any of their products, EVER! I quite like that approach, it means they are focused on the right things.

That means both you and Shawn will have to mod their products to continue your secret closet fetish with the R, the G, and the B!


----------



## Shawnb99

oreonutz said:


> LOL! You both have a fetish for RGB. I see right through your shannigans!
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily Optimus feels the same way you do, I doubt we will ever see RGB on any of their products, EVER! I quite like that approach, it means they are focused on the right things.
> 
> 
> 
> That means both you and Shawn will have to mod their products to continue your secret closet fetish with the R, the G, and the B!


----------



## ciarlatano

oreonutz said:


> LOL! You both have a fetish for RGB. I see right through your shannigans!
> 
> Luckily Optimus feels the same way you do, I doubt we will ever see RGB on any of their products, EVER! I quite like that approach, it means they are focused on the right things.
> 
> That means both you and Shawn will have to mod their products to continue your secret closet fetish with the R, the G, and the B!


Ok....I will make an admission.....I have a white LED installed in the top of my res....I use the excuse that I did it because I was sick of grabbing a flashlight to check my liquid level, but it does look ok. Not that anyone sees it under my desk other than my cat (if someone else were under my desk I would be a bit concerned), and she hasn't complained about it.

The RGB cable on my Phanteks Glacier still has the twist ties from the factory packaging on it, and is neatly tucked away behind the block, though.


----------



## ThrashZone

ciarlatano said:


> Ok....I will make an admission.....*I have a white LED installed in the top of my res....I use the excuse that I did it because I was sick of grabbing a flashlight to check my liquid level*, but it does look ok. Not that anyone sees it under my desk other than my cat (if someone else were under my desk I would be a bit concerned), and she hasn't complained about it.
> 
> The RGB cable on my Phanteks Glacier still has the twist ties from the factory packaging on it, and is neatly tucked away behind the block, though.


Hi,
lol same here 
Also I have two D450 cases and the rgb fan color one blue and one green reminds me which build it is green x299 and blue x99


----------



## LiquidHaus

I can handle RGB everything or RGB nothing.

It really just depends on what you decide to light up and what color it'll be.

For example, two of my builds...












VS


----------



## oreonutz

LiquidHaus said:


> I can handle RGB everything or RGB nothing.
> 
> It really just depends on what you decide to light up and what color it'll be.
> 
> For example, two of my builds...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VS


I Love those Runs man! I wanna build like you when I grow up! Seriously man, Nice builds!


----------



## Section31

The optimus reservoir looks amazing in person. Definitely on my next reservoir to try.


----------



## jink

Section31 said:


> The optimus reservoir looks amazing in person. Definitely on my next reservoir to try.


For real. They look so good!

I am running an EK DDC 100 setup in my Compact Splash and am wanting to go Optimus. Trying to figure out if space is available and then needing to switch fittings from Bitspower silver to something less shiny.


----------



## LiquidHaus

oreonutz said:


> I Love those Runs man! I wanna build like you when I grow up! Seriously man, Nice builds!


Haha, thanks man. It's what I've become known for on social media which is pretty cool. Lots of practice!

Replacing my 3900X with the 3950X next week, though I'm not sure when to expect the Optimus blocks based on what I've read here. But that's okay. We'll see how the HK IV holds up with it. Should actually be a pretty cool comparison. Just a little bummed that I'll have to do new bends to accommodate the new block, especially if I'm really enjoying how the bends look hahaha.


----------



## oreonutz

LiquidHaus said:


> Haha, thanks man. It's what I've become known for on social media which is pretty cool. Lots of practice!
> 
> Replacing my 3900X with the 3950X next week, though I'm not sure when to expect the Optimus blocks based on what I've read here. But that's okay. We'll see how the HK IV holds up with it. Should actually be a pretty cool comparison. Just a little bummed that I'll have to do new bends to accommodate the new block, especially if I'm really enjoying how the bends look hahaha.


I am actually just about to do a round up between the Optimus Block against the Heatkiller block myself, using the 3900x as the heat Generator. Should be an interesting Round up!

Thats a good thing to be known for man! Want to see more pictures of your Builds, I could just sit there and look at it all day, RGB Or not, Mesmerizing!


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

I don't mind RGB being present because it gives flexibility in color scheme, or you can just turn it off. 

That being said, I'm always a function over form guy so I'd prefer if Optimus stuck to making the best possible performance for us LONG before even thinking about LED strips.


----------



## JustinThyme

MrTOOSHORT said:


> Signature V2 on the way.
> 
> $300 CAD for now and I expect to pay some duty after. Expensive just for a cpu block, but the OCN hype train got to me. LoL Bought it from PPCS. Switching out an EK Supremacy EVO. I wanted to switch out the EK as I haven't really liked the quality of products from the company for a while now. Was thinking Heatkiller Pro IV, but went with the Optimus instead.



Blame it on Thrash! I did. 

Having to redo my loop because it’s in on the left took some time. While I was at it everything got yanked and cleaned. 

Rads flushed inside and out. Instead of totally dropping a 360 out of the loop I had a slim laying on a shelf that took up less room than the 60mm wide version even with fans mounted inside. Just filled and leak testing 
If 3 D5s pumping 10L/min doesn’t make it leak nothing will. 

May end up messing around with the loop some more. Added distro plate in the back and I’m not so
Sure both the CPU and GPU are getting adequate flow. I’ll see once I get everything wired back up and cranked up over the weekend. Right now pumps
And controller are running off of spare PSU.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> The optimus reservoir looks amazing in person. Definitely on my next reservoir to try.


Still preferring my heatkiller tube. Have the 200mm version with a D5 next mounted to bottom. Feeding 2 more pwm D5s in a Bitspower serial head.


----------



## skupples

Did Optimus ever confirm which tier Fujipoly they're including with the GPU blocks? (6, 11, or 17) trying to figure out if i need to re-up on my 17w supply.


----------



## LiquidHaus

For all we know, Optimus made an aluminum (preference) or acetal add on piece to the block top that can host a small pre-cut RGB strip.

I've made something similar with my current HK IV Pro block with my company initials.










This gives no ill effect to the original block design other than being simply an aesthetic add-on piece.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

LiquidHaus said:


> For all we know, Optimus made an aluminum (preference) or acetal add on piece to the block top that can host a small pre-cut RGB strip.
> 
> I've made something similar with my current HK IV Pro block with my company initials.
> 
> This gives no ill effect to the original block design other than being simply an aesthetic add-on piece.


What do you mean "for all we know" ? Quite a few of us have some of their CPU blocks already. No guessing required.


----------



## Zurv

skupples said:


> Did Optimus ever confirm which tier Fujipoly they're including with the GPU blocks? (6, 11, or 17) trying to figure out if i need to re-up on my 17w supply.



always need 17 in stock sir 
I think they said they upgraded to 17 .. maybe?
that said, i personally got enough .5mm for 4 cards. That was before they said they upgraded the pads to 17 (or thought they said they did. I COULD BE WRONG!)


also damn you people with your sexy looking loops. I just care about the performance and access... but it still makes me jelly when i see your screenshots.


----------



## skupples

for what we know - they said they'll be focusing on making it light up later, after people aren't waiting for stuff anymore 

as to fuji, this modright company has fuxed prices all sorts of up. it was never cheap, but it used to be less than $120 for a 300x200 sheet of 17


----------



## Optimus WC

Answers!

Overall, we're so focused on Threadripper, GPUs, and overall production, developing new products is on the backburner. 

FUJI THERMAL PADS: the 6ers are included. The others are insanely expensive. We mentioned that in the future, we'll offer an option of 17ers, but that's waaay in the future. 

LED BRACKET: Awesome ideas! The slip on LED bracket is definitely the right solution. But there are many other products ahead of that. Ya know our motto: _Performance First. Quality Also First._


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I usually just get arctic pads seem just fine don't tear apart or crack if disassembly is needed 
Fuji way overrated and overpriced in my book.


----------



## Zurv

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I usually just get arctic pads seem just fine don't tear apart or crack if disassembly is needed
> Fuji way overrated and overpriced in my book.


Fuji is amazing. Might i suggest that using them on ram might be overkill. 
That said, overkill is what we are all here for 

It is always hard to tell for ram as we can't monitor their temp. It isn't like we isolate them either. 
For example, my RTX titan ram is pretty much stable (stable enough for benchmarking) at +1500 but the row of ram is getting poor cooling as the pads on that is 2.5mm!! (damn you bitspower).

This is the main reason i'm replacing my bitspower blocks. But i really don't expect any real difference. The larger fin area should help too, but when the card, under full load, is 42C-45C... (also the Titan isn't ever going to OC well beause of the power limits.) But with the optmus blocks i'll KNOW the cooling is better  (alt east for the ram)


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> prettier, and doesn't require as much maintenance.
> 
> 
> 
> a full nickel loop is essentially fool proof, specially with Mayhems running.


Is that true, nickel is foolproof? I was under the impression that bare copper was foolproof.


----------



## skupples

sakete said:


> Is that true, nickel is foolproof? I was under the impression that bare copper was foolproof.


only issue you have to worry about with nickel is channels clogging from debris. 
copper corrodes.


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> only issue you have to worry about with nickel is channels clogging from debris.
> 
> copper corrodes.


Ah, good to know. Guess I'll be getting nickel stuff after all then.

Took my first step towards watercooling yesterday by getting a suitable case, the 011 XL. Moved all my current hardware over (air cooled), and I have to say it all looks pretty hideous. But otherwise a pretty nice case to work in, nicer than my Corsair 750D. Looks should improve greatly once I move to watercooling (the NHD15 air cooler is unsightly). I'll start doing that once I get some new hardware, first of which is likely to be the a 3080/3080Ti GPU later this year, followed by an AM4 platform (hopefully Ryzen 4000 series with X670 mobo, but realistically that won't come out until Q1 2021, so I might just end up getting Ryzen 3000 / X570).


----------



## LiquidHaus

Kalm_Traveler said:


> What do you mean "for all we know" ? Quite a few of us have some of their CPU blocks already. No guessing required.


I was referring to an RGB add on plan or idea that you indeed wouldn't know, nor would anyone else here know except for Optimus. It's irrelevant if you already have a block or not in this hypothetical.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> Ah, good to know. Guess I'll be getting nickel stuff after all then.
> 
> Took my first step towards watercooling yesterday by getting a suitable case, the 011 XL. Moved all my current hardware over (air cooled), and I have to say it all looks pretty hideous. But otherwise a pretty nice case to work in, nicer than my Corsair 750D. Looks should improve greatly once I move to watercooling (the NHD15 air cooler is unsightly). I'll start doing that once I get some new hardware, first of which is likely to be the a 3080/3080Ti GPU later this year, followed by an AM4 platform (hopefully Ryzen 4000 series with X670 mobo, but realistically that won't come out until Q1 2021, so I might just end up getting Ryzen 3000 / X570).


Hi,
Typically it takes something really dumb to cause copper to corrode.

Something that dumb will likely strip... nickle right off so there are plenty of those examples around so not even nickle is fool proof


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Typically it takes something really dumb to cause copper to corrode.
> 
> Something that dumb will likely strip... nickle right off so there are plenty of those examples around so not even nickle is fool proof


we see people do really dumb stuff around here, all the time, like running nothing but distilled, and never balancing their water. They just cycle parts too quickly to see the long term affects of this. 

true, for now. I have high hopes for Optimus's marine grade nickel plating. I'm not aware of anyone else claiming to use proper marine standard nickel plating, so breath held.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
We see more bad nickle plating than copper corrosion


----------



## skupples

true, thus why this is all in regards to optimus's statements of using marine grade nickel, if they are, and it goes on properly, people could run salt water for a decade with no issue.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
With all this copper/ nickle play we'd have to rethink copper radiators :thinking:


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> we see people do really dumb stuff around here, all the time, like running nothing but distilled, and never balancing their water. They just cycle parts too quickly to see the long term affects of this.
> 
> true, for now. I have high hopes for Optimus's marine grade nickel plating. I'm not aware of anyone else claiming to use proper marine standard nickel plating, so breath held.


Quick aside... Would you consider using Mayhem's Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ PH Balancing? Not sure if there is something else I should be doing other then checking the PH Balance with my Strips every 6 months or so?


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> true, thus why this is all in regards to optimus's statements of using marine grade nickel, if they are, and it goes on properly, people could run salt water for a decade with no issue.


That's what I'm hoping for, that their claims are true as then I'd get their Nickel stuff. Plan on getting their AMD block and GPU block in nickel, once I have the right hardware. No sense in getting water blocks for my current system.

I'll also be getting their reservoir/pump, and probably their fittings as well. Already spending so much money, might as well go all the way.

What is the best clear soft tubing money can buy, that will not leach any plasticizer. Or is the only way to prevent leaching to go with non-clear tubes such as those ZMT tubes?


----------



## skupples

the inhibitor is for balancing Ph.



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> With all this copper/ nickle play we'd have to rethink copper radiators :thinking:


that ends up being the only weak point, once nickel won't flake from crappy cosmetic applications. 

most of us switch hardware often enough where it would be non-issue though.

I've most definitely had copper radiators form channel leaks after years and years of zero water maintenance. In fact, so far, the only time a radiator has ever sprung an internal leak is when running pure distilled for years on end with zero maint.


sakete said:


> That's what I'm hoping for, that their claims are true as then I'd get their Nickel stuff. Plan on getting their AMD block and GPU block in nickel, once I have the right hardware. No sense in getting water blocks for my current system.
> 
> I'll also be getting their reservoir/pump, and probably their fittings as well. Already spending so much money, might as well go all the way.
> 
> What is the best clear soft tubing money can buy, that will not leach any plasticizer. Or is the only way to prevent leaching to go with non-clear tubes such as those ZMT tubes?


folks recommend Tygon or Mayhems, if Tygon isn't available. 

I still use adv. LRT, white or black. I know i know, plasticizer!!!! luckily, well balanced water is less likely to leach.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> *the inhibitor is for balancing Ph.
> *
> .


Hi,
I couldn't even get that remark out of mayhem 

So biocide how do you gauge that need ? just wait for stuff to grow.


----------



## Optimus WC

When copper corrodes, galvanic corrosion is the culprit, but you will only see it quickly if two metals are actually touching. Like steel jet plates, which is why we kicked that to the curb. Or running aluminum or silver or titanium or other metals in the loop with pure distilled. 

Also, not everything in liquid cooling is actual copper. But "copper material." Yeah, copper-like stuff is cheap. We've seen a bit of magnetic copper in other brands' cold plates. Magnetic copper is copper with mystery ferrous metals inside. And by magnetic, we mean magnets will stick to it. Or can be magnetized if you're crazy like that. Check out the pic attached. That should not happen. 

Also, copper radiators are "copper" radiators. The channels and end caps are "brass material" and then the solder is tin. Only the fins are copper. Which means water isn't touching copper anywhere in the radiator. Fun, right? That's why we're doing our own radiators eventually. The Airplex are legit all copper (or "copper"), but performance isn't there. 

BUT, all that said, unless you're running AI boxes in remote locations (which we've done), you're not going to see these problems in any reasonable amount of time. 

Also, our Pro-XE Nickel (TM) is our special variety of electroless nickel plating. If you really want to nerd out on materials, look up electroless to understand why it exists. It's basically the real stuff, not electroplated nickel which is made to mimick chrome. 

Also, don't run salt water in your loop! lol Our nickel is made to be super strong, but it's not formulated for sailing the high seas. It's made to be the best for liquid cooling applications  Oh, and for salt spray on coasts, which again we have PCs in the field getting that sweet ocean breeze. Our stuff lasts, everything else has fallen apart. Of course, super niche use case, but we're into that


----------



## skupples

biocide first(whatever the bottle says per liter), then balance with inhibitor.

almost positive the biocide (at least it was at one point) citric acid base of some sort.

always balance Ph last.

and yes, stating "running salt water would be fine" is a figure of speech. please do as I do, not as a I say 

wooooooah. that's a really good point I never thought about. I'm a floridian. My water will eventually salt itself. i wonder if that's part of the reason why I set records during EKNICKELGATE.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> biocide first(whatever the bottle says per liter), then balance with inhibitor.
> 
> almost positive the biocide (at least it was at one point) citric acid base of some sort.
> 
> always balance Ph last.


Hi,
Yeah I was thinking if you need more inhibitor add the same amount of biocide too.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Installed my V2 and it's performing well. Not much better than my old EK Evo, but I still like the change. Build quality is fantastic and it weighs a ton, good sign!

Next up is the Kingpin block from you guys, not too sure about this HC block.


----------



## ThrashZone

MrTOOSHORT said:


> Installed my V2 and it's performing well. Not much better than my old EK Evo, but I still like the change. Build quality is fantastic and it weighs a ton, good sign!
> 
> Next up is the Kingpin block from you guys, not too sure about this HC block.


Hi,
High clocks should do a lot better 
Cores should also be tighter together too if mount is right 
Upside down should be fine.

My 5.0 verify was a whopping 76c 
https://valid.x86.fr/ez2ifr


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

LiquidHaus said:


> I was referring to an RGB add on plan or idea that you indeed wouldn't know, nor would anyone else here know except for Optimus. It's irrelevant if you already have a block or not in this hypothetical.


ahh gotcha, yeah I can't see any way they would have made a provision for an LED strip on the signature blocks, solid hunk of copper. It all goes back to my function over form view though - give me a product that performs well first, and if someone is bored once it's complete we can think about unnecessary bling.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

MrTOOSHORT said:


> Installed my V2 and it's performing well. Not much better than my old EK Evo, but I still like the change. Build quality is fantastic and it weighs a ton, good sign!
> 
> Next up is the Kingpin block from you guys, not too sure about this HC block.


Did they announce the Kingpin block release yet? I'm waiting to see if I get my stock clocks back with that VS this Bykski block. Was auto OC'ing to 2150 on the OC BIOS with stock VRM cooling, copper heatsinks on the memory, and an EK VGA Supremeacy block on the GPU but after swapping to this full cover Bykski block it dropped to 2085... even though all the measured temps are the same or lower than the previous setup.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Nice ThrashZone!

As for the Kingpin block, no announcement yet. But I think they'll make it after they catch up on the current product.


----------



## ThrashZone

MrTOOSHORT said:


> Nice ThrashZone!
> 
> As for the Kingpin block, no announcement yet. But I think they'll make it after they catch up on the current product.


Hi,
Might be best to remove the springs man 
Static mount is easier to judge pressure and equal tightening


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I'll look into that, thanks.


----------



## ThrashZone

MrTOOSHORT said:


> I'll look into that, thanks.


Hi,
I look forward to your test :thumb:
Should kill that evo


----------



## Shawnb99

Kalm_Traveler said:


> ahh gotcha, yeah I can't see any way they would have made a provision for an LED strip on the signature blocks, solid hunk of copper. It all goes back to my function over form view though - give me a product that performs well first, and if someone is bored once it's complete we can think about unnecessary bling.




Signature block looks way better as the solid hunk it is. RGB would just ruin that. Would look better on the normal block


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I look forward to your test :thumb:
> Should kill that evo


Yes it seems the tighter you get the block, the better the temps. I recall the Optimus rep saying something to that effect. Using the old EK standoffs, springs and thumb screws. Super tight now.


----------



## ThrashZone

MrTOOSHORT said:


> Yes it seems the tighter you get the block, the better the temps. I recall the Optimus rep saying something to that effect. Using the old EK standoffs, springs and thumb screws. Super tight now.


Hi,
Yep Jp testing rep showed up eventually over here 

https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-25.html#post28271598

Long story short Jp's signature shows up 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-59.html#post28261118


----------



## Zurv

I might break the look of the screws, but i'd like to be able to _screw_ them in. It is a bit of a tight space to tightly turn for the mobo i'm using (the x299 Dark, with the large VRM cooling, gets in the way for me.) If getting it "tight" is required for good perf, knowing/targeting the right torque would have been great.


----------



## D-EJ915

Shawnb99 said:


> Signature block looks way better as the solid hunk it is. RGB would just ruin that. Would look better on the normal block


The black aluminum frame on the foundation I got looks fantastic, wonder if they could do that sort of finish on the signature one.


----------



## JustinThyme

D-EJ915 said:


> The black aluminum frame on the foundation I got looks fantastic, wonder if they could do that sort of finish on the signature one.


Signature is a totally different beast. There is no frame like on the foundation. Body is one solid chunk of non electro nickel plated bronze. Only two pieces and two orings adding more rigidity. 

I’m the meantime Idiot Dufus move of the decade for me. I got everything leak tested and all the air bubbles out! Great right? WRONG! Idiot I am I didn’t remove the protective film from the acrylic on the distro and had to bleed it back down, pull the fittings off and remove the film. Wasted a good hour trying to get it off without pulling the fittings then decided to bite the bullet and just get er done. How she looked before I drained and pullled the fittings. Now all back together and leak testing/bubble bleeding.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Sweet


----------



## iunlock

Shawnb99 said:


> Signature block looks way better as the solid hunk it is. RGB would just ruin that. Would look better on the normal block





Kalm_Traveler said:


> ahh gotcha, yeah I can't see any way they would have made a provision for an LED strip on the signature blocks, solid hunk of copper. It all goes back to my function over form view though - give me a product that performs well first, and if someone is bored once it's complete we can think about unnecessary bling.


The signature block is out to slay so it's perfect for what it is intended for with no rgb...

For builds though the Foundation would be nice with rgb. I've attached a pic of my Foundation block on my rig along with the awesome Optimus Fittings! They are fantastic (I really like the design as it is very functional and makes all the sense with the HEX interior.)... the new build is complete! Photoshoot in progress...

Form over bling indeed... In that order. 



MrTOOSHORT said:


> Yes it seems the tighter you get the block, the better the temps. I recall the Optimus rep saying something to that effect. Using the old EK standoffs, springs and thumb screws. Super tight now.





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep Jp testing rep showed up eventually over here
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-25.html#post28271598
> 
> Long story short Jp's signature shows up
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-59.html#post28261118





Zurv said:


> I might break the look of the screws, but i'd like to be able to _screw_ them in. It is a bit of a tight space to tightly turn for the mobo i'm using (the x299 Dark, with the large VRM cooling, gets in the way for me.) If getting it "tight" is required for good perf, knowing/targeting the right torque would have been great.





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Might be best to remove the springs man
> Static mount is easier to judge pressure and equal tightening


After a certain point of torque (hand tightened) there is little to no gain unless you're diving into XOC territory. I've tested this myself, but of course YMMV*. 

@trashzone, 100%... the springs are a culprit more than anything. They are way too stiff; excessively. 

For those that are curious, just avoid the springs. From my testing they bring ZERO benefit for ambient/water cooling.*


----------



## Kana Chan

Are those new radiators going to be all C110?


----------



## iunlock

Good morning all,

Here's a peak at my personal gaming rig: Project 42 w/ Optimus Cooling.

*The build is still in Beta Stage. I almost named this the Impossible Build, because there were so many things behind the scenes that shouldn't have worked, but it did lol. I've barely filled it up, did a quick leak test and fired it up. This build is so elegant in person, the pics don't do it justice, but here they are...*

The Optimus Fittings are fantastic and the Optimus Absolute 12" Reservoir / Pump System is the best I've seen... 

As for the Optimus Foundation Block, it's cooling a lot better than my former bitspower block at around ~6C less than before on average. (1 Hour Gaming Session.)

Enjoy!


----------



## JustinThyme

Believe it or not there is such a thing as too much lighting. Last time I had RGB in CPU block was with the ELWB Monojunk. Looks nice but performance relates to steaming pile found in pasture full of bulls. I think these blocks look perfect without RGB. One can use accent lighting to enhance. 

I’m actually toning mine back a bit. 8 Corsair LL series fans back to 4 and leaving the rest as is. I generally have some color scheme going on with a few things then all the rest just white light. When you can read by the light coming from your case.....that’s a bit too much.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Rainbow or is it rainbow puke I forget


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Shawnb99 said:


> Signature block looks way better as the solid hunk it is. RGB would just ruin that. Would look better on the normal block


exactly, that's why I don't care about it whatsoever. 

Give me ultimate performance with no lighting rather than pretty-good performance with an LED strip any day.


----------



## Optimus WC

iunlock said:


> Good morning all,
> 
> Here's a peak at my personal gaming rig: Project 42 w/ Optimus Cooling.
> 
> *The build is still in Beta Stage. I almost named this the Impossible Build, because there were so many things behind the scenes that shouldn't have worked, but it did lol. I've barely filled it up, did a quick leak test and fired it up. This build is so elegant in person, the pics don't do it justice, but here they are...*
> 
> The Optimus Fittings are fantastic and the Optimus Absolute 12" Reservoir / Pump System is the best I've seen...
> 
> As for the Optimus Foundation Block, it's cooling a lot better than my former bitspower block at around ~6C less than before on average. (1 Hour Gaming Session.)
> 
> Enjoy!


Awesome build!! Glad ya like the res and fittings, they don't get as much love as the blocks  But that 6C is legit! And with the Foundation no less


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Only bitspower cpu block I've used briefly was summit and it was terrible

https://shop.bitspower.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_99&product_id=4822&limit=100


----------



## iunlock

Optimus WC said:


> Awesome build!! Glad ya like the res and fittings, they don't get as much love as the blocks  But that 6C is legit! And with the Foundation no less


Danke! What's crazy is that I'm using a graphite pad for the time being since I'll be changing out the cpu quite a bit for testing, hence the temporary tubing for now...

The res/pump + fittings are amazing... They deserve just as much credit as the block. It's that good...

I have data from my test benches with my signature V2 beating out the EK EVO (nickel) by a good amount... I'll get around to it soon...

Optimus is on its way to shake things up and the party is barely getting started.

What makes it authentic and genuine is that the hard facts are driven by real users who actually care about every C drop in Temps... Because every bit counts for us OC'ers...

Hoping that the 2080Ti FTW3 and KP gpu blocks are in the works.


----------



## iunlock

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Only bitspower cpu block I've used briefly was summit and it was terrible
> 
> 
> 
> https://shop.bitspower.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_99&product_id=4822&limit=100


The bitspower blocks have such weak stand off's that it's borderline insulting. I can't believe they went cheap mode on that...


----------



## pmc25

Are these ready to ship now? Most of the products don't indicate a pre-order.

Also, any news on them sending product to real reviewers?


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Rainbow or is it rainbow puke I forget


That would be unicorn vomit. 

I like some lighting but when I see rigs that every single component is RGB it’s a bit much. 

When I see tubing, power cables and especially the 2.5 inch SSD that performs like a broken spinner but hey, it has addressable RGB. Now freaking chairs 

Easier just to get multiple colors of UV reactive paint and a black light. I remember idiots adding UV paint to their coolant back in a Mesozoic era and complaining that it clumped! 

There were no pastels or anything else for that matter. I think the best I could do back then was distilled water and water wetter. People were trying all sorts of weird crap. Windex, alcohol, you name it.....someone tried it in the quest to get to the 1GHz mark!

You will see a marked change in mine when I’m done. Bleeding out air pockets.......again. Dominator RGB ram, what’s on the MOBO and GPU blocks, 4 LL down the front, distro if I like it (May leave it unplugged) and strips running the circumflex of the main chamber. Running white and dimmed.


----------



## Optimus WC

pmc25 said:


> Are these ready to ship now? Most of the products don't indicate a pre-order.
> 
> Also, any news on them sending product to real reviewers?


Everything is shipping, save for Threadripper and GPU which we're still working on but getting very, very close. 

For reviewers, we are sending out samples now to a handful of reviewers. Mostly, since we were backordered on a number of items, we didn't want to get ahead of ourselves with reviews until we got production ramped up.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Remounted with stock V2 stand off and thumb screws, no springs. Works great. Love the looks and performance of this block, glad I got it.


----------



## pmc25

Optimus WC said:


> Everything is shipping, save for Threadripper and GPU which we're still working on but getting very, very close.
> 
> For reviewers, we are sending out samples now to a handful of reviewers. Mostly, since we were backordered on a number of items, we didn't want to get ahead of ourselves with reviews until we got production ramped up.


Thanks.

Can you share which publications or content producers (YTers etc) you've sent them out to? If you want an exhaustive test, I highly recommend you send something to Igor's Lab - obviously ask him to produce an English version as well as German. He's the best IMO. Particularly re: investigation and understanding of cooling the new Zen 2 packages.


----------



## Schmuckley

Section31 said:


> Thanks for update, Interesting results I shpuld know mine in couple weeks once case is painted and i move over my rig.
> 
> The mounting for am4 is all like that. Even the heatkiller am4 doesn’t use the backplate.


You could always order a few Cooler Master Universal backplates. 

IMO, I have a good, universal mounting method involving those and some faucet washers n nuts & bolts n stuff.

Go from air cooler to pot to waterblock in 5 minutes.


----------



## Section31

really out of date post. Not really relevant anymore. Thanks for telling how good optimus fittings are. Im waiting for the 12mm hard tube to release.


----------



## D-EJ915

MrTOOSHORT said:


> Remounted with stock V2 stand off and thumb screws, no springs. Works great. Love the looks and performance of this block, glad I got it.


Looks nice man, Apex is a cool board with its backlighting.


----------



## iunlock

JustinThyme said:


> Believe it or not there is such a thing as too much lighting. Last time I had RGB in CPU block was with the ELWB Monojunk. Looks nice but performance relates to steaming pile found in pasture full of bulls. I think these blocks look perfect without RGB. One can use accent lighting to enhance.
> 
> I’m actually toning mine back a bit. 8 Corsair LL series fans back to 4 and leaving the rest as is. I generally have some color scheme going on with a few things then all the rest just white light. When you can read by the light coming from your case.....that’s a bit too much.


I agree, which is why it's nice to be able to adjust the lightening so that it isn't so bright. I keep three very simple profiles that I cycle through, depending on if I'm gaming with the room lights off or working with the room lights on. 

The Optimus blocks are great because they focus on function over cow pasture false marketing. 

From the pics the white looks a little bluish, but they are white (the tempered glass is tinted)....my theme is white, red and black .. by default the green is just there for accent on the gpu. No rainbow chaos for me ... that's just a no no for me. 



Kalm_Traveler said:


> exactly, that's why I don't care about it whatsoever.
> 
> Give me ultimate performance with no lighting rather than pretty-good performance with an LED strip any day.


All day. 

For those that don't want any RGB, the case (pic) below is perfect along with the awesome EVGA Dark board lol...



JustinThyme said:


> That would be unicorn vomit.
> 
> I like some lighting but when I see rigs that every single component is RGB it’s a bit much.
> 
> When I see tubing, power cables and especially the 2.5 inch SSD that performs like a broken spinner but hey, it has addressable RGB. Now freaking chairs
> 
> Easier just to get multiple colors of UV reactive paint and a black light. I remember idiots adding UV paint to their coolant back in a Mesozoic era and complaining that it clumped!
> 
> There were no pastels or anything else for that matter. I think the best I could do back then was distilled water and water wetter. People were trying all sorts of weird crap. Windex, alcohol, you name it.....someone tried it in the quest to get to the 1GHz mark!
> 
> You will see a marked change in mine when I’m done. Bleeding out air pockets.......again. Dominator RGB ram, what’s on the MOBO and GPU blocks, 4 LL down the front, distro if I like it (May leave it unplugged) and strips running the circumflex of the main chamber. Running white and dimmed.


Good grief I know right? There was that one rgb SSD that over heated like crazy = epic fail ... rgb gets a bad name from those who absolutely abuse it, but I guess that's like everything else... going over the top is something we see all the time. What I find interesting is how something that looks atrocious (rainbow everything) is normal to some people... to each his own I guess ... 



MrTOOSHORT said:


> Remounted with stock V2 stand off and thumb screws, no springs. Works great. Love the looks and performance of this block, glad I got it.


Looks great! Good stuff. Out of curiosity how much of a turn past the natural stopping point did you give the TOP's? Like for me I barely had to give it 1/4 turn past the natural hand tightened stop point to give me optimal temps. 



Section31 said:


> really out of date post. Not really relevant anymore. Thanks for telling how good optimus fittings are. Im waiting for the 12mm hard tube to release.


Sharing how good something is never out dated and is always relevant. Will you not be sharing your thoughts on the 12mm hard tube fittings when they release? Or would that be outdated and not relevant any more?


----------



## Section31

Of course will be sharing my experience with optimus. They are already my number 1 choice for the upcoming 3080ti waterblocks (whenever released). It will be interesting how there radiators perform thats an area where we have seen nothing new for even longer.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

thanks D-EJ915, love this board 

iunlock, I tightened all the way until I couldn't. You think its better to let off? I'll try it. thanks.


----------



## JustinThyme

iunlock said:


> I agree, which is why it's nice to be able to adjust the lightening so that it isn't so bright. I keep three very simple profiles that I cycle through, depending on if I'm gaming with the room lights off or working with the room lights on.
> 
> The Optimus blocks are great because they focus on function over cow pasture false marketing.
> 
> From the pics the white looks a little bluish, but they are white (the tempered glass is tinted)....my theme is white, red and black .. by default the green is just there for accent on the gpu. No rainbow chaos for me ... that's just a no no for me


White is actually hard to get in most instances. Corsair is the only "White" Ive been able to achieve. This isnt quite tuned in yet. My internal USB HUB took a crap so a lot of things running default. Thankfully the aquaero profiles are stored on the device.

Im on the way back up. A few bugs to work out but so far so good. Ive not seen any Holy Crap this is like ICE moments but a few degrees cooler and my spread is down. Banged it with blender, Realbench, cinebench, AIDA64 Stress etc. Dont Use P95 space heater.


----------



## iunlock

Section31 said:


> Of course will be sharing my experience with optimus. They are already my number 1 choice for the upcoming 3080ti waterblocks (whenever released). It will be interesting how there radiators perform thats an area where we have seen nothing new for even longer.


Then what did you mean by me sharing my opinion being outdated and not relevant? Lol... Or were you just lost in translation somewhere?

Both of your replies are very contradicting.

I'm also looking forward to the future products from Optimus. It's very refreshing. 



MrTOOSHORT said:


> thanks D-EJ915, love this board
> 
> iunlock, I tightened all the way until I couldn't. You think its better to let off? I'll try it. thanks.


Ah OK. That's fine too as Optimus has confirmed that the tops were designed to be tightened all the way until it stops.

However, for testing purposes try to loosen them at maybe 1/4 turn increments, then run a test to record the Temps. Try to find the point where there is no gain in (drop in temps.) 

For example: I can turn mine about a 1/4 past the natural stopping point to get optimal Temps; where anything past that doesn't achieve better Temps for me. Therefore, it makes no difference for me to tighten them past that mark. 



JustinThyme said:


> White is actually hard to get in most instances. Corsair is the only "White" Ive been able to achieve. This isnt quite tuned in yet. My internal USB HUB took a crap so a lot of things running default. Thankfully the aquaero profiles are stored on the device.
> 
> Im on the way back up. A few bugs to work out but so far so good. Ive not seen any Holy Crap this is like ICE moments but a few degrees cooler and my spread is down.


Very nice. Yea I know what you mean, it's hard to get pure white on the fans... Even my G.skill ram kit gets whiter than the corsair fans which has that bluish tint.

Is your top Rad an intake? Or do you have the fans on the outer side as "pull?"

Looking forward to seeing a Pic of the whole set up. Good work.


----------



## goldenleaf

*Will my Optimus arrive in time?*

Will my Optimus arrive in time before I close this guy up? Is it worth the wait? Admittedly, that EK looks so sweet


----------



## JustinThyme

iunlock said:


> Then what did you mean by me sharing my opinion being outdated and not relevant? Lol... Or were you just lost in translation somewhere?
> 
> Both of your replies are very contradicting.
> 
> I'm also looking forward to the future products from Optimus. It's very refreshing.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah OK. That's fine too as Optimus has confirmed that the tops were designed to be tightened all the way until it stops.
> 
> However, for testing purposes try to loosen them at maybe 1/4 turn increments, then run a test to record the Temps. Try to find the point where there is no gain in (drop in temps.)
> 
> For example: I can turn mine about a 1/4 past the natural stopping point to get optimal Temps; where anything past that doesn't achieve better Temps for me. Therefore, it makes no difference for me to tighten them past that mark.
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice. Yea I know what you mean, it's hard to get pure white on the fans... Even my G.skill ram kit gets whiter than the corsair fans which has that bluish tint.
> 
> Is your top Rad an intake? Or do you have the fans on the outer side as "pull?"
> 
> Looking forward to seeing a Pic of the whole set up. Good work.


I have top rad single set of fans pushing in, bottom push pull in and front push out. Set up subject to change. I did have them all going out with top push pull also and LL fans. Still a work in progress. ATM my USB hub crapped out so using that USB to aquaero and cant change lighting other than RAM ATM.

Here she is breathing again. New hub will be in tomorrow. Like I said the loop is pretty much what its going to be. Was going to leave the LL in the top with a crossflow rad but it took up so much space, like butted on both sides left no room to work pipe.

Back cover is still off so light coming in through there. Had blanking plates but added 3 1TB Sammy 860 evos, couldn't resist holiday sales.

Not happy with ATX cable either, may put old one that is black and red back in and a bit longer so I can go straight in with it.


----------



## JustinThyme

goldenleaf said:


> Will my Optimus arrive in time before I close this guy up? Is it worth the wait? Admittedly, that EK looks so sweet


EK needs to step up their game on performance design. Same old story. They look good but HK and Optimus beats them out on performance. Depends on what you are after.


----------



## JustinThyme

Blender full run, Not horrible but hoped for a little better. Package temp was lower but a few cores snuck up to mid 90s.
This is 4.8Ghz all cores no AVX offest, 1.225 Vcore. with package temp down may be able to sneak up the mesh a little.
Ill give it some time to settle in and see how it does. First few runs on new TIM always takes time. If I dont get a little more improvement I may pull the block and check the TIM. Used Kryonaut.


----------



## ciarlatano

JustinThyme said:


> EK needs to step up their game on performance design. Same old story. They look good but HK and Optimus beats them out on performance. Depends on what you are after.


Looks are subjective.


----------



## Shawnb99

goldenleaf said:


> Will my Optimus arrive in time before I close this guy up? Is it worth the wait? Admittedly, that EK looks so sweet




Optimus Signature looks so much sweeter


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> Optimus Signature looks so much sweeter


Truer Words, have never been spoken...


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Blender full run, Not horrible but hoped for a little better. Package temp was lower but a few cores snuck up to mid 90s.
> This is 4.8Ghz all cores no AVX offest, 1.225 Vcore. with package temp down may be able to sneak up the mesh a little.
> Ill give it some time to settle in and see how it does. First few runs on new TIM always takes time. If I dont get a little more improvement I may pull the block and check the TIM. Used Kryonaut.


Hi,
You're not using the springs are you ?
Don't 
Snug all four nuts and give them all another 1/4-1/2 extra turn until finger tight.

Thermal grizzly you really have to swirl the cpu block around a few times to help spread that stuff.


----------



## LOKI23NY

What kind of turn around are people seeing with orders? I've been reading through the thread and was wondering what the shipping times are looking like on cpu blocks and other items?


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You're not using the springs are you ?
> Don't
> Snug all four nuts and give them all another 1/4-1/2 extra turn until finger tight.
> 
> Thermal grizzly you really have to swirl the cpu block around a few times to help spread that stuff.


Our new favorite paste is Kingpin KPX. It spreads incredibly well with our ultra smooth blocks. We use the spatula method, cover that frosting on top in a really thin layer. The block does the rest.


----------



## skupples

LOKI23NY said:


> What kind of turn around are people seeing with orders? I've been reading through the thread and was wondering what the shipping times are looking like on cpu blocks and other items?


those getting intel stuff are getting it pretty quickly. 

gpu blocks are still a few weeks out.

unknown for AMD stuff. I'd assume we'll get an update on that one soon.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Our new favorite paste is Kingpin KPX. It spreads incredibly well with our ultra smooth blocks. We use the spatula method, cover that frosting on top in a really thin layer. The block does the rest.


Hi,
Never seen KPX 
I know evga paste is garbage.

I use the X method personally.


----------



## Optimus WC

All standard product is shipping. The Threadripper and GPU blocks are still a few weeks out, Threadripper will be first then GPU.


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> those getting intel stuff are getting it pretty quickly.
> 
> gpu blocks are still a few weeks out.
> 
> unknown for AMD stuff. I'd assume we'll get an update on that one soon.


I doubt this helps, but I have now Received 2 AMD Foundation Blocks from Optimus. The First right before Christmas, I received it in 2 days, the Second just after New Years, I received in 2 Days. I live in Las Vegas, the Blocks chip from the Greater Chicago area. On the First I paid for 2 day shipping, on the second I didn't. Obviously that is only the sample Size of 2, and the last one was almost exactly a month ago, but my experience with shipping on the AMD Blocks from Optimus has been top notch.


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Never seen KPX
> I know evga paste is garbage.
> 
> I use the X method personally.
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4


KPX is my New Go To Paste. Used to use pretty much only Kryonaut, But Finally got me 30Gs of KPX from PPC for like $35 or something stupid cheap like that, and have used it twice now, this stuff is really impressive. The Price for 30G's is damn good too.


----------



## shiokarai

JustinThyme said:


> EK needs to step up their game on performance design. Same old story. They look good but HK and Optimus beats them out on performance. Depends on what you are after.



It seems EK is going to step up their game, interesting! 

https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop/magnitude/


----------



## skupples

too little too late, unless they do the same #s at a lower price.


----------



## Bart

EK is crap, and will most likely remain crap. Will not buy. I however WILL buy an AM4 Optimus block to try one out.


----------



## LOKI23NY

oreonutz said:


> I doubt this helps, but I have now Received 2 AMD Foundation Blocks from Optimus. The First right before Christmas, I received it in 2 days, the Second just after New Years, I received in 2 Days. I live in Las Vegas, the Blocks chip from the Greater Chicago area. On the First I paid for 2 day shipping, on the second I didn't. Obviously that is only the sample Size of 2, and the last one was almost exactly a month ago, but my experience with shipping on the AMD Blocks from Optimus has been top notch.


Thanks for the info. The AMD Foundation block is what I ordered. Needed something for the AMD system I'm putting together and I'm all about trying newer/smaller companies.

I'm only a week out from my order date but wanted to ask about shipping times since I know with smaller companies there can sometimes be slower turn around.

Looking forward to seeing this block in person and getting it installed. The reviews on here and the fact that a rep is actively answering questions or giving updates on products definitely swayed me in this direction.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Gotta shipping notification for my two blocks this morning. SO EXCITED. I've got a lot of work to do working on three separate builds at the same time but always the most fun.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Same old poor quality control machining marks all over just the gpu block.
Water flow design looks poor too 
Straight shot to the center of water jet 
But left side has to go all around the world to get to the outlet


----------



## Shawnb99

shiokarai said:


> It seems EK is going to step up their game, interesting!
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop/magnitude/
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2STZzTHJGg


Just for that mustache alone I had to stop the video. I won't be buying anything he's selling.


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Just for that mustache alone I had to stop the video. I won't be buying anything he's selling.


Hi,
Yep wth worse than Yosemite Sam :applaud:


----------



## ciarlatano

shiokarai said:


> JustinThyme said:
> 
> 
> 
> EK needs to step up their game on performance design. Same old story. They look good but HK and Optimus beats them out on performance. Depends on what you are after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems EK is going to step up their game, interesting! 🙂
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop/magnitude/
Click to expand...

EK has years of ineptitude to overcome before I start using them again. And....who really cares what they do with Optimus, HK, heck even Phanteks around?


----------



## skupples

Phanteks?! ! 

My short list for the future is Optimus, HK, AquaComp.


----------



## pmc25

pmc25 said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Can you share which publications or content producers (YTers etc) you've sent them out to? If you want an exhaustive test, I highly recommend you send something to Igor's Lab - obviously ask him to produce an English version as well as German. He's the best IMO. Particularly re: investigation and understanding of cooling the new Zen 2 packages.


Can this be answered?

It's very difficult to take credibly claims that this does 4-5C better than an AC Cuplex Kyro on Zen 2, or 7-8C over a WC HK IV Pro. 

A small number of people are reporting outrageous gains (which Optimus are using to market and promote their products), whilst others are saying it's ball park HK IV Pro, or a bit worse than a Cuplex Kyro.

I'd like to keep an open mind, but given that including shipping and tax these are more expensive than a nickel/nickel (or nickel/PVD) Cuplex Kyro VARIO w/ VISION, it's a bit of a stretch. Especially as there's virtually no hope of it outperforming a VARIO on Zen 2, or at least not without lapping.


----------



## Optimus WC

pmc25 said:


> Can this be answered?
> 
> It's very difficult to take credibly claims that this does 4-5C better than an AC Cuplex Kyro on Zen 2, or 7-8C over a WC HK IV Pro.
> 
> A small number of people are reporting outrageous gains (which Optimus are using to market and promote their products), whilst others are saying it's ball park HK IV Pro, or a bit worse than a Cuplex Kyro.
> 
> I'd like to keep an open mind, but given that including shipping and tax these are more expensive than a nickel/nickel (or nickel/PVD) Cuplex Kyro VARIO w/ VISION, it's a bit of a stretch. Especially as there's virtually no hope of it outperforming a VARIO on Zen 2, or at least not without lapping.


Hey there, so all the marketing claims are from this forum (and reddit). The guys here are generally a pretty skeptical bunch. We actually wanted to start with the community that's really pushing the limits. Traditional reviewers sometimes have test systems with old (5th gen) CPUs and aren't super useful for the latest high core count and extreme OC situations people are pushing these days. 

Also, with our block performance, much depends on how it's being used. Higher TDP, bigger difference. As for comparisons to other blocks, first, we don't recommend lapping. It makes our performance actually worse. But generally, our blocks perform noticeably better because of the higher surface area of the fins. More surface area, better cooling. It's like the difference between a 120mm and 360mm rad. 

That said, VSG at techpowerup is going to be one of the first to get the blocks. Then a couple other youtubers, and away we go from there. We just want to make sure we can keep up with production.


----------



## skupples

razmataz

more blox for me


----------



## shiokarai

skupples said:


> Phanteks?! !
> 
> My short list for the future is Optimus, HK, AquaComp.


well, even the AquaComputer have their issues, recently - their RTX 2080 Ti blocks first batch wasn't compatible with their own active backplates and were leaking, lengthly thread over at their forums (in german unfortunately). New ones are okay (I'm using two of them in my system)... but the second one I got was leaking right out of the box - o-rings were placed badly inside the block, fortunately I'm leak testing right away, otherwise would be a costly mistake. Also their newer RTX blocks have different Plexi cutouts - old ones are "RTX 2080 Ti", new ones "RTX Turing" - looks kinda silly with SLI  Also Cuplex Kryos NEXT CPU block is basically useless with direct die cooling, mounting system is absolutely not compatible/moddable to do so. So no company is bulletproof here. Also saying EK is "crap" outright is too much. EK is probably why so many people are watercooling nowadays, they've surely broaden the user base for other companies to profit. Performance-wise and quality-wise they're lagging behind other companies, that's sure.


----------



## skupples

quite unfortunate.

the optimus GPU block delay was due to them fashioning some sorta fancy back plate.

I'd personally love to see a genuine sammich waterblock come out for GPUs. back block, and standard block


----------



## tistou77

KPX is "better" than the Kryonaut ?

Since the Foundation is not available anywhere (let alone in Europe) I will wait to see future Ek magnitude review see what it's worth compared to Foundation


----------



## pmc25

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, so all the marketing claims are from this forum (and reddit). The guys here are generally a pretty skeptical bunch. We actually wanted to start with the community that's really pushing the limits. Traditional reviewers sometimes have test systems with old (5th gen) CPUs and aren't super useful for the latest high core count and extreme OC situations people are pushing these days.
> 
> Also, with our block performance, much depends on how it's being used. Higher TDP, bigger difference. As for comparisons to other blocks, first, we don't recommend lapping. It makes our performance actually worse. But generally, our blocks perform noticeably better because of the higher surface area of the fins. More surface area, better cooling. It's like the difference between a 120mm and 360mm rad.
> 
> That said, VSG at techpowerup is going to be one of the first to get the blocks. Then a couple other youtubers, and away we go from there. We just want to make sure we can keep up with production.


Some of the claims being used, and claims made in this post are not credible. "It's like the difference between a 120mm and 360mm rad." - Seriously?

Also, TPU and VSG would be pretty low down my list of desired reviewers. Whilst their PSU reviews have always been excellent, little else has been, and they've managed to produce some extremely questionable results over the years. Worse, they just selected their new test platform for CPU blocks. 9900K. Selecting a 9900K in 2020 seems ludicrous. Relatively few self build enthusiasts are still selecting Intel chips over AMD, and when Zen 3 is available in Q3 (given the lack of response from Intel until late 2021 at earliest), it's likely to drop to almost nil.

There are some decent Youtubers, and there are also a bunch of patsies who will produce results to suit whomever is providing the kit, or their own bias. Amongst the decent Youtubers, not many of them keep a bunch of waterblocks to test and re-test, in controlled conditions.

I guess we'll see eventually, but this is too much of a shot in the dark at the moment. If these products could really do what you seem to want people to believe, I feel like you'd have had product in the hands of credible reviewers a long while ago.

Hope to be proved wrong, but it's very hard to look past AquaComputer, at this kind of pricing.

Also, another company claiming huge gains over anything available (whilst being non-specific) is Nexalus, via Overclockers UK (CaseKing DE subsidiary) with 8Pack branding. Was supposed to launch a few months after Computex last year. Still AWOL now, and the fighting talk has been dialled down a few notches since ... 

In the last 10-15 years, the only huge advances I remember were those of the HKIV Pro TR4 over EK's bodged and hastily released product for TR4. This due to the EK product having the same size fin area and coverage as Intel Enthusiast and Ryzen, and being patently unsuitable cash grab. Everything else that has claimed to offer huge increases in performance has been unable to substantiate it.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I believe whomever has used the optimus blocks on ocn have all been pretty impressed with not only performance but build quality 
Justin... is still working out mounting quirks 
Mounting an optimus goes against all other previous cpu blocks I've ever used and takes a little to get used too
Once mounted as suggested it works extremely better 

Foundation and heatkiller 4 pro from my testing is undoubtedly better than HK 4 pro
4.8 run on optimus foundation no avx offset was amazing only one core hit 90c
There is only about 2c increase in temperature per each + multiplier 
4.8


Spoiler














4.7


Spoiler














4.6


Spoiler














4.5


Spoiler


----------



## Kashtan

I choose waterblock for AM4 3900X. 
Which version is the best for performance? 
Copper, Nickel, Acryl, Acetal?
I hope on answer from personal experience, not only nude theory.
Thank you.


----------



## ThrashZone

Kashtan said:


> I choose waterblock for AM4 3900X.
> Which version is the best for performance?
> Copper, Nickel, Acryl, Acetal?
> I hope on answer from personal experience, not only nude theory.
> Thank you.


Hi,
Doubt it matters they are all personal visual tastes 
Only difference is Foundation or Absolute 
https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-amd

https://optimuspc.com/products/absolute-cpu-block-threadripper-3


----------



## Keith Myers

*Foundation block better than AC Cuplex Kryos Next Silver/PVD block*



> I'd like to keep an open mind, but given that including shipping and tax these are more expensive than a nickel/nickel (or nickel/PVD) Cuplex Kyro VARIO w/ VISION, it's a bit of a stretch. Especially as there's virtually no hope of it outperforming a VARIO on Zen 2, or at least not without lapping.


Uhh, my observation was the improvement of the Foundation block on my 3950X that replaced the AC Cuplex Kryos Next Silver/PVD block. Foundation block is better.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Optimus WC said:


> pmc25 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can this be answered?
> 
> It's very difficult to take credibly claims that this does 4-5C better than an AC Cuplex Kyro on Zen 2, or 7-8C over a WC HK IV Pro.
> 
> A small number of people are reporting outrageous gains (which Optimus are using to market and promote their products), whilst others are saying it's ball park HK IV Pro, or a bit worse than a Cuplex Kyro.
> 
> I'd like to keep an open mind, but given that including shipping and tax these are more expensive than a nickel/nickel (or nickel/PVD) Cuplex Kyro VARIO w/ VISION, it's a bit of a stretch. Especially as there's virtually no hope of it outperforming a VARIO on Zen 2, or at least not without lapping.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey there, so all the marketing claims are from this forum (and reddit). The guys here are generally a pretty skeptical bunch. We actually wanted to start with the community that's really pushing the limits. Traditional reviewers sometimes have test systems with old (5th gen) CPUs and aren't super useful for the latest high core count and extreme OC situations people are pushing these days.
> 
> Also, with our block performance, much depends on how it's being used. Higher TDP, bigger difference. As for comparisons to other blocks, first, we don't recommend lapping. It makes our performance actually worse. But generally, our blocks perform noticeably better because of the higher surface area of the fins. More surface area, better cooling. It's like the difference between a 120mm and 360mm rad.
> 
> That said, VSG at techpowerup is going to be one of the first to get the blocks. Then a couple other youtubers, and away we go from there. We just want to make sure we can keep up with production.
Click to expand...

How truth the version 2 is a preorder item on performancepcs site? I ordered the last one show as stock v2 and they emailed me back today telling me that, where there was nothing on their site saying it was a preorder item and i find that very hard to believe. So now i have to wait i dont know how long as there was no date given. @performancepcs very unprofessional.


----------



## skupples

yeah, that's pretty bad communication... but so far they're showing no signs of flying by night. they're responsive, and direct.


----------



## Optimus WC

zGunBLADEz said:


> How truth the version 2 is a preorder item on performancepcs site? I ordered the last one show as stock v2 and they emailed me back today telling me that, where there was nothing on their site saying it was a preorder item and i find that very hard to believe. So now i have to wait i dont know how long as there was no date given. @performancepcs very unprofessional.


Any issue with product availability is 100% on us, not PPCs. Not exactly sure what happened there in your situation, but chances are there was an expectation of blocks from us that went backordered.

And not 100% clear regarding the preordering, but we're going to keep good stock at PPCs moving forward so there won't be any issues. Again, sounds like the problem was on our end if that makes sense


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Optimus WC said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> How truth the version 2 is a preorder item on performancepcs site? I ordered the last one show as stock v2 and they emailed me back today telling me that, where there was nothing on their site saying it was a preorder item and i find that very hard to believe. So now i have to wait i dont know how long as there was no date given. @performancepcs very unprofessional.
> 
> 
> 
> Any issue with product availability is 100% on us, not PPCs. Not exactly sure what happened there in your situation, but chances are there was an expectation of blocks from us that went backordered.
> 
> And not 100% clear regarding the preordering, but we're going to keep good stock at PPCs moving forward so there won't be any issues. Again, sounds like the problem was on our end if that makes sense /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

There was nothing mentioned on their site about it was a preorder to begin with then the email was like


> Hello,
> OP-CPU-SIG-N is a pre-order item. We will ship your order as soon as these return to stock. Please let us know if you have any questions or concerns.
> --



Hmmm yeah i do have questions and concerns about right now ?

when i click buy and placed my order was expecting there was stock to begin with i didnt see no "this is a preorder get it now because its a hot item and we will run out quick". Then they didn't offer no date whats o ever..

So when you expect they will restock or get the new batch as for the looks of it i preorder it not knowing it
:rollseyes:


----------



## Optimus WC

zGunBLADEz said:


> There was nothing mentioned on their site about it was a preorder to begin with then the email was like
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm yeah i do have questions and concerns about right now ?
> 
> when i click buy and placed my order was expecting there was stock to begin with i didnt see no "this is a preorder get it now because its a hot item and we will run out quick". Then they didn't offer no date whats o ever..
> 
> So when you expect they will restock or get the new batch as for the looks of it i preorder it not knowing it
> :rollseyes:


Yeah, sounds like product gets stocked then sold out immediately. I'm not familiar with PPCs system, but the blocks have been popular  

I don't have an exact date PPCs will be able to ship it to you, but they should have everything from us later this week. I imagine they'll turn it around and ship it to you as fast as possible. But again the delay was on us. And we're working hard to make sure inventory stays good. We've been shopping at PPCs for years (before starting Optimus) and they were/are our first choice for buying parts. So if there are issues it's definitely on us, sorry about the troubles, we're working to expand and handle these issues


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

I bought my V2 from PPCS when it showed 2 in stock this past week. Ordered Wednesday night, got it Friday afternoon. I'm in Canada too. After I bought the V2, the stock showed 1 left.

Bought a few things from them over the years, no issues. Hope I don't buy something from them when it says 1 left and then it's switched to preorder in my email.


----------



## gwertheim

MrTOOSHORT said:


> I bought my V2 from PPCS when it showed 2 in stock this past week. Ordered Wednesday night, got it Friday afternoon. I'm in Canada too. After I bought the V2, the stock showed 1 left.
> 
> Bought a few things from them over the years, no issues. Hope I don't buy something from them when it says 1 left and then it's switched to preorder in my email.


As a fellow Canadian (Toronto) was shipping alot of money? I am considering buying from dazmode.com but if PPCS is better, I will buy from them


----------



## skupples

^^ welcome to OCN. 

if they're both shipping from the states, then shipping will likely be similar

PPCs allows you to estimate shipping before checking out, so you should be able to quantify this to some degree of accuracy.


----------



## gwertheim

skupples said:


> ^^ welcome to OCN.
> 
> if they're both shipping from the states, then shipping will likely be similar
> 
> PPCs allows you to estimate shipping before checking out, so you should be able to quantify this to some degree of accuracy.


Dazmode.com actually ships from just outside Toronto, while they do have a good selection, there are some things missing.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

gwertheim said:


> As a fellow Canadian (Toronto) was shipping alot of money? I am considering buying from dazmode.com but if PPCS is better, I will buy from them



Hi there, I paid $25.58 usd shipping, a $10(CAD) fee, plus tax. No duty. I used Fed Ex.


----------



## gwertheim

MrTOOSHORT said:


> gwertheim said:
> 
> 
> 
> As a fellow Canadian (Toronto) was shipping alot of money? I am considering buying from dazmode.com but if PPCS is better, I will buy from them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi there, I paid $25.58 usd shipping, a $10(CAD) fee, plus tax. No duty. I used Fed Ex.
Click to expand...

Sweet thx


----------



## ThrashZone

gwertheim said:


> Dazmode.com actually ships from just outside Toronto, while they do have a good selection, there are some things missing.


Hi,
If you can't wait for a holiday discount code 
Everyday PPC discount code OCN55 for 5% off 
Next holiday or special event is probably Valentines day and or maybe Presidents day


----------



## Bart

Well it wasn't cheap, but quality gear usually isn't, so I just pulled the trigger and ordered an AMD block for my Ryzen 3900X. Went with black aluminum, acrylic top, nickel finish. This should pair nicely with the black aluminum HeatKiller GPU back plate. I'm looking forward to seeing what this block can do! It also sounds like there's a new paste I should try. I usually swear by MX-4, but I'm open to trying new stuff.


----------



## iunlock

shiokarai said:


> well, even the AquaComputer have their issues, recently - their RTX 2080 Ti blocks first batch wasn't compatible with their own active backplates and were leaking, lengthly thread over at their forums (in german unfortunately). New ones are okay (I'm using two of them in my system)... but the second one I got was leaking right out of the box - o-rings were placed badly inside the block, fortunately I'm leak testing right away, otherwise would be a costly mistake. Also their newer RTX blocks have different Plexi cutouts - old ones are "RTX 2080 Ti", new ones "RTX Turing" - looks kinda silly with SLI  Also Cuplex Kryos NEXT CPU block is basically useless with direct die cooling, mounting system is absolutely not compatible/moddable to do so. So no company is bulletproof here. Also saying EK is "crap" outright is too much. EK is probably why so many people are watercooling nowadays, they've surely broaden the user base for other companies to profit. Performance-wise and quality-wise they're lagging behind other companies, that's sure.


I agree... to say EK is outright crap is a bit hasty. They have influenced the industry tremendously and for that we should be grateful. With new comers like Optimus coming to the scene with better products should light a fire under most of these companies to get on the ball. 

Competition is very healthy and it's good for us end users so we should welcome it... for now and from my own testing and experience, Optimus has taken the throne as the top performing blocks.

One thing that people need to keep in mind is that IF there was something better, we'd likely be buying that LOL ... after all, the Optimus products are at a premium price compared to the rest out there, but it's worth every penny. 

Most of us here are loyal to performance over a label. 



skupples said:


> quite unfortunate.
> 
> the optimus GPU block delay was due to them fashioning some sorta fancy back plate.
> 
> I'd personally love to see a genuine sammich waterblock come out for GPUs. back block, and standard block


That would be sweet indeed. 



tistou77 said:


> KPX is "better" than the Kryonaut ?
> 
> Since the Foundation is not available anywhere (let alone in Europe) I will wait to see future Ek magnitude review see what it's worth compared to Foundation


They both are my top go to traditional pastes... but...

Although they both perform within a margin of error of each other, the KPx does spread a lot nicer AND sad to say my that recent 11.1g Kyronaut tubes were inconstant with the paste consistency. 

You now how when peanut butter that has been sitting too long in the jar separates; where the oil is separates from the solid peanut butter paste...Well...

That's what happened to the Kyronaut inside of the 11.1g tubes so I had to empty them into an empty small jar and mix them... (there's another BUT ...)

... when I mixed the paste from both tubes into their own separate container, the color (shade) of the pastes were different as well. One had a darker shade than the other.... 

Weird I know... 

So for now I'm just using purely KPx. 



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I believe whomever has used the optimus blocks on ocn have all been pretty impressed with not only performance but build quality
> Justin... is still working out mounting quirks
> Mounting an optimus goes against all other previous cpu blocks I've ever used and takes a little to get used too
> Once mounted as suggested it works extremely better
> 
> Foundation and heatkiller 4 pro from my testing is undoubtedly better than HK 4 pro
> 4.8 run on optimus foundation no avx offset was amazing only one core hit 90c
> There is only about 2c increase in temperature per each + multiplier
> 4.8
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.7
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.6
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.5
> 
> 
> Spoiler





Kashtan said:


> I choose waterblock for AM4 3900X.
> Which version is the best for performance?
> Copper, Nickel, Acryl, Acetal?
> I hope on answer from personal experience, not only nude theory.
> Thank you.


Great stuff, thanks for sharing ... 



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Same old poor quality control machining marks all over just the gpu block.
> Water flow design looks poor too
> Straight shot to the center of water jet
> But left side has to go all around the world to get to the outlet


Oooff ... yea it's always disappointing to see flaws that could have been easily prevented, whether from a design or quality control perspective. 



oreonutz said:


> KPX is my New Go To Paste. Used to use pretty much only Kryonaut, But Finally got me 30Gs of KPX from PPC for like $35 or something stupid cheap like that, and have used it twice now, this stuff is really impressive. The Price for 30G's is damn good too.


Same... KPx paste is great... 



goldenleaf said:


> Will my Optimus arrive in time before I close this guy up? Is it worth the wait? Admittedly, that EK looks so sweet


HODL! lol... yes definitely worth the wait. I"ve replaced all my EK blocks (several desktops, all three test benches, and my personal gaming rig) to Optimus blocks, simply because they perform better. 

It's not to say that the EK blocks are bad... I really like my all Nickel EVO block and it has done very well for me, but the Optimus Signature V2 simply just performs better. 

As I've mentioned above, IF there was something better I'd be using it in a heartbeat. The fin design of the Optimus blocks really separates them from the rest....



JustinThyme said:


> EK needs to step up their game on performance design. Same old story. They look good but HK and Optimus beats them out on performance. Depends on what you are after.


Very true... I think Optimus has already shook up the water block segment for sure... the word has spreading naturally and bigger companies like EK, Bitspower etc.. .are all in the know ...

Bring on the competition! It'll only make things better and we as the end user get the luxury of having it be a win-win plus win. 



JustinThyme said:


> I have top rad single set of fans pushing in, bottom push pull in and front push out. Set up subject to change. I did have them all going out with top push pull also and LL fans. Still a work in progress. ATM my USB hub crapped out so using that USB to aquaero and cant change lighting other than RAM ATM.
> 
> Here she is breathing again. New hub will be in tomorrow. Like I said the loop is pretty much what its going to be. Was going to leave the LL in the top with a crossflow rad but it took up so much space, like butted on both sides left no room to work pipe.
> 
> Back cover is still off so light coming in through there. Had blanking plates but added 3 1TB Sammy 860 evos, couldn't resist holiday sales.
> 
> Not happy with ATX cable either, may put old one that is black and red back in and a bit longer so I can go straight in with it.


Right on... it's coming along nicely... I really wish companies made fans with the blades reversed so that the exhaust is on the "pretty side," in order to give us options. I have all my fans on the 3x rads as exhaust and one monster high static fan on the rear as intake...so far so good... yea it's not what I wanted, but I didn't want to be looking at the back side of the fans. At any rate, the Optimus block is performing a ton better than the bitspower block before so that helps alleviate any slight increased in temps from my all exhaust orientation. (However, the rear single vardar fan is strong and is blowing in a ton of air so it's mitigating the negative pressure very well.)


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Optimus WC said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing mentioned on their site about it was a preorder to begin with then the email was like
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm yeah i do have questions and concerns about right now ?
> 
> when i click buy and placed my order was expecting there was stock to begin with i didnt see no "this is a preorder get it now because its a hot item and we will run out quick". Then they didn't offer no date whats o ever..
> 
> So when you expect they will restock or get the new batch as for the looks of it i preorder it not knowing it
> :rollseyes:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, sounds like product gets stocked then sold out immediately. I'm not familiar with PPCs system, but the blocks have been popular /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> I don't have an exact date PPCs will be able to ship it to you, but they should have everything from us later this week. I imagine they'll turn it around and ship it to you as fast as possible. But again the delay was on us. And we're working hard to make sure inventory stays good. We've been shopping at PPCs for years (before starting Optimus) and they were/are our first choice for buying parts. So if there are issues it's definitely on us, sorry about the troubles, we're working to expand and handle these issues /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input i wasnt blaming you "optimus company" or blame you as a "person" for the situation. I just came here to find out whats going on. I just find odd the situation specially the email i got..




MrTOOSHORT said:


> I bought my V2 from PPCS when it showed 2 in stock this past week. Ordered Wednesday night, got it Friday afternoon. I'm in Canada too. After I bought the V2, the stock showed 1 left.
> 
> Bought a few things from them over the years, no issues. Hope I don't buy something from them when it says 1 left and then it's switched to preorder in my email.


I have bought stuff before from them... I just find weird and strange the email to begin with with preorder with no eta or nothing, waiting from user "me" reply on what im going to do. Then...... I confronted them with the optimus feedback from here swhen i asked him if this whats a preorder and they changed their version to this one...



> We do ocassionally have a miscount and sometimes the front end of the site states we have stock when we actually do not. We are trying to fix these glitches as quickly as possible.


And now you telling me that and im more upset because they lied to me from the get go and theres one thing i hate the most is been lied.

My mind is telling me, that 1 stock left block they had went to a customer with "privileges" but hey thats my mind....


@GBT-MatthewH
Played something similar to this when they approached me for testing their z390 boards and i told them straight that if is crap i will post exactly that what im going to say here. Never heard a reply from them ever again i have also proof on this on my pms. Im not going to sell myself for freebies.

It just proves me the shady stuff is going around with reviewers etc...


----------



## oreonutz

zGunBLADEz said:


> Thanks for the input i wasnt blaming you "optimus company" or blame you as a "person" for the situation. I just came here to find out whats going on. I just find odd the situation specially the email i got..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have bought stuff before from them... I just find weird and strange the email to begin with with preorder with no eta or nothing, waiting from user "me" reply on what im going to do. Then...... I confronted them with the optimus feedback from here swhen i asked him if this whats a preorder and they changed their version to this one...
> 
> 
> 
> And now you telling me that and im more upset because they lied to me from the get go and theres one thing i hate the most is been lied.
> 
> My mind is telling me, that 1 stock left block they had went to a customer with "privileges" but hey thats my mind....
> 
> 
> @GBT-MatthewH
> Played something similar to this when they approached me for testing their z390 boards and i told them straight that if is crap i will post exactly that what im going to say here. Never heard a reply from them ever again i have also proof on this on my pms. Im not going to sell myself for freebies.
> 
> It just proves me the shady stuff is going around with reviewers etc...


IDK if I would go so far as saying its "Proof" of shady stuff going on with reviewers. It's the Job of PR Departments to always make sure their company is shown in the most positive of light, therefore if they find a Reviewer who has either a predisposed disposition against their product, or they find the person's response to their inquiry for review as especially off-putting, then, especially if you are not one of the bigger known reviewers out their, they will simply decide not to deal with you. If you try to look at it from the individuals perspective that is trying to keep their job, its understandable. Personally, I believe that companies should want to send it to people who will shoot straight, even if they appear to be aggressive when reaching out, because that means if they truly believe in their product, then they know this person will most likely have just as much aggressiveness with promoting the product if it is that good, but often its not the engineer of the product who is reaching out to reviewers, its a dedicated PR Person, who wants to make sure they keep their job, and often they do that by doing their best to make sure their products get as positive as coverage as possible, and unfortunately that means a lot of them tend to set up reviews in such a way as to show their product in as positive as light as possible, and thats just the nature of the business. I don't like it, and I think it should change, but I wouldn't go as far as to say they are conspiring with reviewers, or paying reviewers off (Which you did not say exactly, but is a logical conclusion to draw from "Shady Stuff With Reviewers"), more I would say they are doing their best to screen out reviewers who they feel are unpredictable and might give them a bad review. Honestly I think that is just as bad, to be honest, but I think its important to single out the exact problem, vs possibly insinuating corruption with the either the reviewer and/or the company.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Anyways, the real reason I was actually chiming in, before I read your last statement was to say I have had a similar situation with PPC, a few times now. I still love ordering from them, they always end up taking care of me in the end. But I am STILL waiting for a Bottle of Mayhem's Inhibitor Plus that I ordered way back on November 15th. Their site said they had stock and allowed me to order it, I ordered it with a Bottle of Biocide Plus. Then 3 days later on the 18th, they reached out to me and said due to their site recently have changing, their was a mistake made with the stock count, and they actually didn't have the inhibitor in stock. They asked me how I would like to Proceed. I actually wasn't in a hurry, as I didn't need it until just after Christmas, so I told them just to send out the Biocide Plus and send the Inhibitor whenever it came in stock. Christmas eventually rolled around and I noticed I hadn't received it, so I reached back out, and they said that they were expecting more stock soon, and thanked me for being patient. Again not a huge deal, TitanRig had stock, so I just ordered a few bottles of each from them, and that got me the stock I needed to provide with the delivery of the PC's I was delivering to clients on the 4th and 5th on January. 

However, I still have not heard from them or received my Item. I had completely forgotten about it until just now after reading your comment. So I am about to reach out to them again, I am hoping to get it sometime this year, I don't really need it urgently as I stocked up, but still it would be nice to have this resolved.

So it does appear, that every now and again these things do happen, and as this was a Mayhems Product and not an Optimus Product, it would appear that their are possibly communication or computer inventory issues with PPC's back end. Also, I would like to go on Record as HATING their new site, its too SLOW! I wish I would have known they were rebuilding, I would have submitted a proposal from my company, its not something I personally do, but I have a team that works for me that does amazing work, particularly with Sales based websites, and I know for a fact that at the very least the performance of the damn site called "Performance PC's" would be up to snuff. But oh well. At least their customer service is top notch, and their stock is generally better than most the competition, so hopefully these other small issues will get ironed out in time...

P.S. @GBT-MatthewH Left Gigabyte earlier this month...


----------



## tistou77

iunlock said:


> They both are my top go to traditional pastes... but...
> 
> Although they both perform within a margin of error of each other, the KPx does spread a lot nicer AND sad to say my that recent 11.1g Kyronaut tubes were inconstant with the paste consistency.
> 
> You now how when peanut butter that has been sitting too long in the jar separates; where the oil is separates from the solid peanut butter paste...Well...
> 
> That's what happened to the Kyronaut inside of the 11.1g tubes so I had to empty them into an empty small jar and mix them... (there's another BUT ...)
> 
> ... when I mixed the paste from both tubes into their own separate container, the color (shade) of the pastes were different as well. One had a darker shade than the other....
> 
> Weird I know...
> 
> So for now I'm just using purely KPx.


Thanks for your feedback, I'll test KPX 

Is it only available on the Kingpin and Performance PCS site?
Shipping costs for Europe cost as much as the product (10g) :thumbsdow


----------



## oreonutz

tistou77 said:


> Thanks for your feedback, I'll test KPX


Yup I 100 Percent agree with @iunlock. Paste can be a hard thing to test for, because the mount and spread being off just a little bit could affect your results. Its one of those things you need to remount and re test at least a half of dozen times, preferably even more, then throw out any outliers, and average the rest of the runs to get an actual decently accurate representation of their performance.

In my opinion, KPX is much easier to get a consistent spread, so that right there is a major positive in its favor...



Spoiler



Also, as much as I like Kryonaut, unfortunately they tend to have consistency issues with their batches, and its extremely important with Kryonaut especially, after you open the tube, to put it back into that ZipLock bag they give you and make sure its sealed air tight, or it tends to go bad after about 45 days. As @iunlock said it is possible to mix it back together, but its a huge hassle, and I am not convinced performance remains unaffected at that point. But I have found it is possible to keep an open tube close to fresh, by placing the tube lid back on tight, putting the tube in the black bag it comes with, and then placing that bag in an actual zip lock bag, making sure to release all the air before sealing. 

Also, recently, Thermal Grizzly released a new version of their Kryonaut paste, called "Helium" edition. I buy my Kryonaut through Amazon, and as of the last time I picked up an 11g tube, which was January 3rd, they still weren't specifying which Kryonaut they were sending you. I ordered 3 11g tubes between December 17th and January 3rd, the Tube from the 17th was Helium Edition, the Tube from the 27th was not, and the Tube from the 3rd was, all were ordered from the same Seller on Amazon, using the same exact Link.

The Helium Edition is definitely better. I have not used it enough to know if this will hold true over time, but so far it seems to spread slightly easier, and at least between the 2 Tubes I have of it, it seems to have better consistency.

It also gives you SLIGHTLY better performance between the original Kryonaut, but if you have a good batch of the original, we are talking like a 1 to 1.5c difference Max.

KPX On the Other hand I unfortunately have far less experience with, as I only just started using it, and so far have only applied it Twice. It comes in like a small container, like a premium chapstick container, instead of a tube, and they give you a little tool to scoop it up and spread it, it spreads real easy, and is also easier to clean up any excess as the consistency is easy to pick up with a qtip or Microfiber cloth then Kryonaut. 

I also have not done the proper testing, reapplying and remounting to get an accurate representation of its performance vs Kryonaut, but I did swap out the Thermal Paste on my 3950x, and ran benchmarks before and after, and there was a 1.3c difference in favor of KPX with the same 150amp load on Y-Cruncher, accounting for Ambient. Thats a small enough margin that it could be a difference in spread and mounting, and that was using the Original Kryonaut Paste not the Helium Edition, but again the KPX is easier to spread, so I feel like you would get a more consistent mount with it vs Kryonaut, just off that alone. But I recently ordered 2 more Things of 30g so I can do more testing.

There is a review online from a Youtuber named Lummi who does a good job of testing it, so I would encourage searching him out as well.

Here is a Link to that video: 







Hope this helps.

P.S. That sucks about Shipping! Unfortunately I am in the US so I am not aware of European based retailers that carry it, but I would be surprised if places like Overclockers.UK didn't carry it, If they don't I would reach out and ask them to, because not only is this great paste for Ambient Cooling, but it also seems to be the most sought after paste for Sub Ambient Extreme Cooling like Dry Ice and LN2, and with your Robust Extreme OC Community across the Pond, I would be really surprised if their wasn't a European based Retailer who wasn't stocking it.


----------



## iunlock

tistou77 said:


> Thanks for your feedback, I'll test KPX
> 
> 
> 
> Is it only available on the Kingpin and Performance PCS site?
> 
> Shipping costs for Europe cost as much as the product (10g) :thumbsdow


Np and sounds good..

Most of us here in the States get ours from an online retailer PPC.

I was also going to order directly from KP's site but the shipping is atrocious lol... *face palm.*


----------



## tistou77

Thanks :thumb:

I will test it anyway, too bad for the shipping costs 

Is it better to take a "tub" or "syringe" ?


----------



## ciarlatano

skupples said:


> Phanteks?! !
> 
> My short list for the future is Optimus, HK, AquaComp.


Good list. My point on that wasn't to insinuate that Phanteks rivals Optimus or HK in any way. I was pointing out that even Phanteks makes higher quality liquid cooling gear than EK.


----------



## pXuis

What sort of temp drop can one expect on a 9900k/KS @5.2/3Ghz with aggressive voltages under load? Coming from an EK Velocity Nickel.

Also the Foundation and the Signature have the same plate, so I can assume performance will be the same?


----------



## Optimus WC

pXuis said:


> What sort of temp drop can one expect on a 9900k/KS @5.2/3Ghz with aggressive voltages under load? Coming from an EK Velocity Nickel.
> 
> Also the Foundation and the Signature have the same plate, so I can assume performance will be the same?


Hard to say, really depends on your system, but you'll see a noticeable gain, especially since you're pushing over 5. 

For the difference between the two blocks, yes, they use the same cold plate, but the Signature has other advantages which give it around a 2c improvement in OC situations.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Switching motherboard from Rampage Vi Extreme to Extreme Omega, and cpu block from Heat Killer IV to Optimus Signature. Wouldn't be a legit upgrade without a blood sacrifice apparently.


----------



## eliwankenobi

Ok people, trying to build something cost effective,

What is your opinion on getting this:


Alphacool 11608 Eisbaer Extreme Liquid Cooler core 280 - Black Edition Water Cooling Radiators https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C51Y7CR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xgIoEbP6GZK8B










And then pair it with the Foundation AM4 block with 4 fittings and some EK ZMT tubing?

Sort of making an overkill AIO type cooling solution for my 3800x CPU

What do you think?


----------



## skupples

i'd recommend making your own thread on the matter


----------



## Richforbroke

My first watercool build complete! Not the most unique loop but I'm happy.

This build was inspired by wanting to build a PC with a watercool loop. My last PC was an aircooled Intel Sandy Bridge setup from 10 years ago! Yes, much of my budget went into the watercool setup and I could have had an aircooled PC with higher end parts but that wasn't exciting to me.

I'll take better pics later and get rid of those ugly air bubbles in the Res. 

Basic build list:

AMD Ryzen 7 3700x
MSI Meg X570 Unify
EVGA Nvidia RTX 2070 Super
Corsair 32 gb DDR4 3600
Ensourced cables
Evolv X case

Optimus AMD AM4 Block
Optimus Reservoir
Heatkiller RTX 2080 gpu block + nickel backplate
Hardware Labs GTS 360 Rads x2
Cooled with DI water + PT Nuke PHN


----------



## iunlock

Richforbroke said:


> My first watercool build complete! Not the most unique loop but I'm happy.
> 
> This build was inspired by wanting to build a PC with a watercool loop. My last PC was an aircooled Intel Sandy Bridge setup from 10 years ago! Yes, much of my budget went into the watercool setup and I could have had an aircooled PC with higher end parts but that wasn't exciting to me.
> 
> I'll take better pics later and get rid of those ugly air bubbles in the Res.
> 
> Basic build list:
> 
> AMD Ryzen 7 3700x
> MSI Meg X570 Unify
> EVGA Nvidia RTX 2070 Super
> Corsair 32 gb DDR4 3600
> Ensourced cables
> Evolv X case
> 
> Optimus AMD AM4 Block
> Optimus Reservoir
> Heatkiller RTX 2080 gpu block + nickel backplate
> Hardware Labs GTS 360 Rads x2
> Cooled with DI water + PT Nuke PHN


Very nice and clean. Good job! I bet you had fun bending that tubing eh?


----------



## oreonutz

Richforbroke said:


> My first watercool build complete! Not the most unique loop but I'm happy.
> 
> This build was inspired by wanting to build a PC with a watercool loop. My last PC was an aircooled Intel Sandy Bridge setup from 10 years ago! Yes, much of my budget went into the watercool setup and I could have had an aircooled PC with higher end parts but that wasn't exciting to me.
> 
> I'll take better pics later and get rid of those ugly air bubbles in the Res.
> 
> Basic build list:
> 
> AMD Ryzen 7 3700x
> MSI Meg X570 Unify
> EVGA Nvidia RTX 2070 Super
> Corsair 32 gb DDR4 3600
> Ensourced cables
> Evolv X case
> 
> Optimus AMD AM4 Block
> Optimus Reservoir
> Heatkiller RTX 2080 gpu block + nickel backplate
> Hardware Labs GTS 360 Rads x2
> Cooled with DI water + PT Nuke PHN


Gorgeous! Just Gorgeous!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Richforbroke, I’d be proud too. Awesome looking build!:thumb:


----------



## Richforbroke

iunlock said:


> Very nice and clean. Good job! I bet you had fun bending that tubing eh?


Actually took the easy (more expensive?) route and didn't bend. I was about to buy a pipe bender but heard reports of the nickel flaking at the bend. These were pre-bent pieces. I only had to cut, deburr and sand


----------



## Richforbroke

Thanks @oreonutz and @MrTOOSHORT


----------



## iunlock

Richforbroke said:


> Actually took the easy (more expensive?) route and didn't bend. I was about to buy a pipe bender but heard reports of the nickel flaking at the bend. These were pre-bent pieces. I only had to cut, deburr and sand


That works too! Great build.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You're not using the springs are you ?
> Don't
> Snug all four nuts and give them all another 1/4-1/2 extra turn until finger tight.
> 
> Thermal grizzly you really have to swirl the cpu block around a few times to help spread that stuff.


Yes, using springs, thats what came in the kit. Im going to end up pulling it anyhow but redid the loop is such a fashion it wont be a terrible PITA other than the bleeding air again. Ive been at it with the kryonaught for awhile. I spread it with the little spatula fairly thick without going ballistic. May try cleaning that off and see what I get with MX-4. Not going to try to many combos with a hard line loop. Ill try without the springs and see what I get. Waiting on a corsair RMA on LL fans ATM. They spin up fine but lighting not working as it should. They are generally pretty good about it.


----------



## BMDJag

Apologies if this has been asked before but what are the benefits of the nickle variant vs bare copper blocks? I have been told the nickle will prevent oxidization but at the same rate oxidation has no effect on performance. Is it purely aesthetic? If that is the case why would someone get the nickle variant of the acetyl blocks that are not transparent?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

oreonutz said:


> IDK if I would go so far as saying its "Proof" of shady stuff going on with reviewers. It's the Job of PR Departments to always make sure their company is shown in the most positive of light, therefore if they find a Reviewer who has either a predisposed disposition against their product, or they find the person's response to their inquiry for review as especially off-putting, then, especially if you are not one of the bigger known reviewers out their, they will simply decide not to deal with you. If you try to look at it from the individuals perspective that is trying to keep their job, its understandable. Personally, I believe that companies should want to send it to people who will shoot straight, even if they appear to be aggressive when reaching out, because that means if they truly believe in their product, then they know this person will most likely have just as much aggressiveness with promoting the product if it is that good, but often its not the engineer of the product who is reaching out to reviewers, its a dedicated PR Person, who wants to make sure they keep their job, and often they do that by doing their best to make sure their products get as positive as coverage as possible, and unfortunately that means a lot of them tend to set up reviews in such a way as to show their product in as positive as light as possible, and thats just the nature of the business. I don't like it, and I think it should change, but I wouldn't go as far as to say they are conspiring with reviewers, or paying reviewers off (Which you did not say exactly, but is a logical conclusion to draw from "Shady Stuff With Reviewers"), more I would say they are doing their best to screen out reviewers who they feel are unpredictable and might give them a bad review. Honestly I think that is just as bad, to be honest, but I think its important to single out the exact problem, vs possibly insinuating corruption with the either the reviewer and/or the company.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Anyways, the real reason I was actually chiming in, before I read your last statement was to say I have had a similar situation with PPC, a few times now. I still love ordering from them, they always end up taking care of me in the end. But I am STILL waiting for a Bottle of Mayhem's Inhibitor Plus that I ordered way back on November 15th. Their site said they had stock and allowed me to order it, I ordered it with a Bottle of Biocide Plus. Then 3 days later on the 18th, they reached out to me and said due to their site recently have changing, their was a mistake made with the stock count, and they actually didn't have the inhibitor in stock. They asked me how I would like to Proceed. I actually wasn't in a hurry, as I didn't need it until just after Christmas, so I told them just to send out the Biocide Plus and send the Inhibitor whenever it came in stock. Christmas eventually rolled around and I noticed I hadn't received it, so I reached back out, and they said that they were expecting more stock soon, and thanked me for being patient. Again not a huge deal, TitanRig had stock, so I just ordered a few bottles of each from them, and that got me the stock I needed to provide with the delivery of the PC's I was delivering to clients on the 4th and 5th on January.
> 
> However, I still have not heard from them or received my Item. I had completely forgotten about it until just now after reading your comment. So I am about to reach out to them again, I am hoping to get it sometime this year, I don't really need it urgently as I stocked up, but still it would be nice to have this resolved.
> 
> So it does appear, that every now and again these things do happen, and as this was a Mayhems Product and not an Optimus Product, it would appear that their are possibly communication or computer inventory issues with PPC's back end. Also, I would like to go on Record as HATING their new site, its too SLOW! I wish I would have known they were rebuilding, I would have submitted a proposal from my company, its not something I personally do, but I have a team that works for me that does amazing work, particularly with Sales based websites, and I know for a fact that at the very least the performance of the damn site called "Performance PC's" would be up to snuff. But oh well. At least their customer service is top notch, and their stock is generally better than most the competition, so hopefully these other small issues will get ironed out in time...
> 
> P.S. @GBT-MatthewH Left Gigabyte earlier this month...


Well, i didnt use that to make it an absolute truth about x o y reviewer or the whole thing its just a personal experience which is added to the equation.. The Utubby reviewers we have right now they just suck theres nothing more to say about. Even sites like anandtech or the hole is now hardocp. I prefer to come here and do reading straight from users before making a move.

Thats how i see it. if they cant handle the critic then you are in the wrong place asking for help and "free" troubleshooting data which was the goal of the "freebie". Im not a reviewer neither can be my morals are too high XD


So they did that to you as well wow.. It sucks man they follow up with a email by friday they should be able to sent the piece. I bought before from titanrig as well thru amazon 0 problems so far..


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> Well, i didnt use that to make it an absolute truth about x o y reviewer or the whole thing its just a personal experience which is added to the equation.. The Utubby reviewers we have right now they just suck theres nothing more to say about. Even sites like anandtech or the hole is now hardocp. I prefer to come here and do reading straight from users before making a move.
> 
> Thats how i see it. if they cant handle the critic then you are in the wrong place asking for help and "free" troubleshooting data which was the goal of the "freebie". Im not a reviewer neither can be my morals are too high XD
> 
> 
> So they did that to you as well wow.. It sucks man they follow up with a email by friday they should be able to sent the piece. I bought before from titanrig as well thru amazon 0 problems so far..


Hi,
I ordered directly from optimus's website not PPC.
Should of pm'ed optimus wc before ordering seeing both you and optimus are in Chicago.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Yes, using springs, thats what came in the kit. Im going to end up pulling it anyhow but redid the loop is such a fashion it wont be a terrible PITA other than the bleeding air again.
> *Ive been at it with the kryonaught for awhile. I spread it with the little spatula fairly thick without going ballistic. *
> May try cleaning that off and see what I get with MX-4. Not going to try to many combos with a hard line loop.
> Ill try without the springs and see what I get. Waiting on a corsair RMA on LL fans ATM.
> They spin up fine but lighting not working as it should. They are generally pretty good about it.


Hi,
Jp had fun at first too if you want to review his mounting experiments just startup from here 

https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-25.html#post28271598


----------



## eliwankenobi

Richforbroke said:


> My first watercool build complete! Not the most unique loop but I'm happy.
> 
> 
> 
> This build was inspired by wanting to build a PC with a watercool loop. My last PC was an aircooled Intel Sandy Bridge setup from 10 years ago! Yes, much of my budget went into the watercool setup and I could have had an aircooled PC with higher end parts but that wasn't exciting to me.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll take better pics later and get rid of those ugly air bubbles in the Res.
> 
> 
> 
> Basic build list:
> 
> 
> 
> AMD Ryzen 7 3700x
> 
> MSI Meg X570 Unify
> 
> EVGA Nvidia RTX 2070 Super
> 
> Corsair 32 gb DDR4 3600
> 
> Ensourced cables
> 
> Evolv X case
> 
> 
> 
> Optimus AMD AM4 Block
> 
> Optimus Reservoir
> 
> Heatkiller RTX 2080 gpu block + nickel backplate
> 
> Hardware Labs GTS 360 Rads x2
> 
> Cooled with DI water + PT Nuke PHN




Your loop looks fantastic! Congratulations


----------



## Optimus WC

Richforbroke said:


> My first watercool build complete! Not the most unique loop but I'm happy.
> 
> This build was inspired by wanting to build a PC with a watercool loop. My last PC was an aircooled Intel Sandy Bridge setup from 10 years ago! Yes, much of my budget went into the watercool setup and I could have had an aircooled PC with higher end parts but that wasn't exciting to me.


Excellent build!! Man, that looks super clean  Amazing work, and we're working so every part can be optimus 

The air bubbles in the res should disappear really quickly if you run the pump at full speed. 

Now a bit of troubleshooting: the CPU block cold plate needs to be rotated. Yeah, this is gonna be a pain to do. But when the top plate is rotated from the stock top/bottom orientation, the cold plate needs to be rotated as well. If you look closely, you'll see the center jet slot goes the wrong way over the fins. Below is a pic of how the fins/ports should look.

This is an easy mistake to make, it just means the whole thing needs to be taken apart, unfortunately. But that's liquid cooling.

That said, I'd be curious what kinda performance you're seeing any way


----------



## Optimus WC

BMDJag said:


> Apologies if this has been asked before but what are the benefits of the nickle variant vs bare copper blocks? I have been told the nickle will prevent oxidization but at the same rate oxidation has no effect on performance. Is it purely aesthetic? If that is the case why would someone get the nickle variant of the acetyl blocks that are not transparent?


Good question, oxidization isn't really an issue. The reason for nickel is for liquid metal. LM will basically destroy copper instantly.


----------



## Bart

+REP Richforbroke, great job on that loop!!

Also just got an email that the Ryzen block I ordered directly from Optimus has shipped, woohoo! I only placed the order a few days ago. Can't wait to try one of these puppies, as it's my first Optimus product. Very much looking forward to it!! Also got some Kingpin KPX paste on the way too to go with it. Excited!!


----------



## LiquidHaus

My two Foundations blocks should get delivered today. Pretty excited! The Intel one will be going to a direct die 6700k w/ LM and the AMD one will be going to a 3950X lol I just can't wait to get some media first and foremost!


----------



## Bart

LiquidHaus said:


> My two Foundations blocks should get delivered today. Pretty excited! The Intel one will be going to a direct die 6700k w/ LM and the AMD one will be going to a 3950X lol I just can't wait to get some media first and foremost!


And we can't wait to see your amazing pictures of that block. You take AMAZING photos man! Oh and get on the "LED shroud" project for that thing. You did it with HeatKillers, now do it for these blocks. I'm willing to beta test and pay for shipping!


----------



## Kashtan

@Richforbroke - awesome job, just shine!


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Due to my negligence checking PCI-E slot spacing changes between my old Asus MB and the new one I have to wait until Friday or so to get this rig back up and running but I can say the Optimus block is making MUCH better contact than the Heat Killer IV block was.

Upon removal of the HK block, thermal paste spread was only covering about 70% of the IHS in kind of a V shape towards the top of the motherboard - and didn't really feel particularly tight even with its thumb screws all the way down.

This Optimus Signature V2 block on the other hand was already tight before cranking on the thumb screws. Now it feels sturdy enough to lift the entire rig by the CPU block.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Bart said:


> And we can't wait to see your amazing pictures of that block. You take AMAZING photos man! Oh and get on the "LED shroud" project for that thing. You did it with HeatKillers, now do it for these blocks. I'm willing to beta test and pay for shipping!


Hey thanks, man! I appreciate the kind words! I already have plans on hitting the block with a caliper so I can draw something up on Solidworks 

I got the blocks today!

Took out the Intel variant for some quick shots..



















The quality on this thing is 11/10. Absolutely beautiful and worth the wait to those who have been waiting a while. I got pretty lucky and didn't have to wait long. Excellent packaging as well. Very impressed so far. Can't wait to get this sucker plumbed in and running!


----------



## Optimus WC

LiquidHaus said:


> Hey thanks, man! I appreciate the kind words! I already have plans on hitting the block with a caliper so I can draw something up on Solidworks
> 
> I got the blocks today!
> 
> Took out the Intel variant for some quick shots..
> 
> The quality on this thing is 11/10. Absolutely beautiful and worth the wait to those who have been waiting a while. I got pretty lucky and didn't have to wait long. Excellent packaging as well. Very impressed so far. Can't wait to get this sucker plumbed in and running!


Awesome pics!! Love that hard lighting


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Jp had fun at first too if you want to review his mounting experiments just startup from here
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-25.html#post28271598


Wasnt all his done with the foundation block? I have the Signature V2.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Optimus WC said:


> Awesome pics!! Love that hard lighting


Could you clarify plates for direct die? 

After seeing how much better the Signature block mounts on my delidded 2066 cpu than a HK block I want to pick one up for my direct-die 9900ks but I'm not sure based on your website wording which plate will be ideal. Solder was all chemically removed so the bare die is whatever shape it naturally is.


----------



## Optimus WC

Kalm_Traveler said:


> Could you clarify plates for direct die?
> 
> After seeing how much better the Signature block mounts on my delidded 2066 cpu than a HK block I want to pick one up for my direct-die 9900ks but I'm not sure based on your website wording which plate will be ideal. Solder was all chemically removed so the bare die is whatever shape it naturally is.


Awesome, glad you're liking the Signature!

For direct die, use our standard signature. The cold plate curvature matches the die itself and will fit inside of a die bracket perfectly. 

So the simple answer:

Signature Standard: IHS and Bare die
Flat Version: Lapped IHS Only


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Optimus WC said:


> Awesome, glad you're liking the Signature!
> 
> For direct die, use our standard signature. The cold plate curvature matches the die itself and will fit inside of a die bracket perfectly.
> 
> So the simple answer:
> 
> Signature Standard: IHS and Bare die
> Flat Version: Lapped IHS Only


perfect, thank you!

Soon as you guys have that Kingpin 2080 Ti block ready to go I'll pick one up along with another Sig block so I don't have to drain that machines loop twice more.


----------



## Schmuckley

Ah, Idk, the groove thing. I think large square blocky pins would do better. 

The taller the blocky pin, the better. In b4 this idea makes it .


----------



## iunlock

BMDJag said:


> Apologies if this has been asked before but what are the benefits of the nickle variant vs bare copper blocks? I have been told the nickle will prevent oxidization but at the same rate oxidation has no effect on performance. Is it purely aesthetic? If that is the case why would someone get the nickle variant of the acetyl blocks that are not transparent?


Nickel is ideal for LM applications. If you use LM on copper, it'll stain it permanently due to the bond of the elements that are in LM when it comes in contact with Copper.

You can still use LM on copper, but you'd have to LM it twice. ie... The first time you apply LM and mount it (after running your system for a while; once you start noticing that the temps might be a few degrees hotter than the first mounting point...), some of the LM will, "soak" into the Copper cold plate. I call this the curing process / seasoning state. (Kind of like an iron pan where you would season it before use.) At this time you can apply more LM (accordingly) and it'll work just fine from there on out...

I've LM'ed literally hundreds of laptops and desktops with copper cold plates for my clients over many many years. There has been a few in depth scientific discussions about LM and Copper in other forums that really lay out the details, but simply put:

Yes, you can use LM with copper, but it's ideal to use LM with Nickel cold plates. 

If you have any specific questions, feel free to DM me. 



Bart said:


> +REP Richforbroke, great job on that loop!!
> 
> Also just got an email that the Ryzen block I ordered directly from Optimus has shipped, woohoo! I only placed the order a few days ago. Can't wait to try one of these puppies, as it's my first Optimus product. Very much looking forward to it!! Also got some Kingpin KPX paste on the way too to go with it. Excited!!


Great stuff! KPx is great stuff. Very easy to spread and works slightly better than Kyronaut. 



LiquidHaus said:


> My two Foundations blocks should get delivered today. Pretty excited! The Intel one will be going to a direct die 6700k w/ LM and the AMD one will be going to a 3950X lol I just can't wait to get some media first and foremost!


Great block. My Foundation is running great and has been a lot better than the previous bitspower block that I had in my gaming rig.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well, i didnt use that to make it an absolute truth about x o y reviewer or the whole thing its just a personal experience which is added to the equation.. The Utubby reviewers we have right now they just suck theres nothing more to say about. Even sites like anandtech or the hole is now hardocp. I prefer to come here and do reading straight from users before making a move.
> 
> Thats how i see it. if they cant handle the critic then you are in the wrong place asking for help and "free" troubleshooting data which was the goal of the "freebie". Im not a reviewer neither can be my morals are too high XD
> 
> 
> So they did that to you as well wow.. It sucks man they follow up with a email by friday they should be able to sent the piece. I bought before from titanrig as well thru amazon 0 problems so far..
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> I ordered directly from optimus's website not PPC.
> Should of pm'ed optimus wc before ordering seeing both you and optimus are in Chicago.
Click to expand...

Tried that beforehand. But, ppcs sent my order yesterday so i should have it by friday hopefully. Im going to fire up on my 8700k first to see and compare it against my ek supremacy evo all nickel first then i pull my 2066 apart. Or test first on my 7940x which i can open bench it more easier before hand. Im still binning my 7980xe and its a tight squeeze in my setup to be playing with it yet. I can do bare die in all of them. Always get discougared by the results and pita mountings lol.


@OptimusWC for lapped ihs/bare die what plate from ur site i need?


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Wasnt all his done with the foundation block? I have the Signature V2.


Hi,
Yes he started out with the foundation but received a signature and switched to it eventually mounting is the same though.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

zGunBLADEz said:


> Tried that beforehand. But, ppcs sent my order yesterday so i should have it by friday hopefully. Im going to fire up on my 8700k first to see and compare it against my ek supremacy evo all nickel first then i pull my 2066 apart. Or test first on my 7940x which i can open bench it more easier before hand. Im still binning my 7980xe and its a tight squeeze in my setup to be playing with it yet. I can do bare die in all of them. Always get discougared by the results and pita mountings lol.
> 
> 
> @OptimusWC for lapped ihs/bare die what plate from ur site i need?





Optimus WC said:


> Awesome, glad you're liking the Signature!
> 
> For direct die, use our standard signature. The cold plate curvature matches the die itself and will fit inside of a die bracket perfectly.
> 
> So the simple answer:
> 
> Signature Standard: IHS and Bare die
> Flat Version: Lapped IHS Only


They literally just answered my exact same question bud.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Bare die = flat 
Lapped chip = flat


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Bare die = flat
> Lapped chip = flat


From What Optimus is saying Flat cold plate is for lapped IHS or one of the aftermarket flat IHS. All else, get the standard. I guess if one has the bawlz to actually lap a nekked die to flat then it may work for that but that IMO is pushing ones luck as the tolerance on the bare die kits are like NONE! I remember back it the day it was all bare die. No such critter as an IHS. Difference was the PCB wafer was much thicker though. I tried bare die on my 7900X and guess my skills were lacking as no matter what I tried I just could not get good contact. Der8auer kit, iceman kit, 3 different blocks, lapped the crap out of one of them, everything was worse than using the IHS and liquid metal and leaving the IHS adhesive intact as in not scraping it off and tacking it back with super glue so the height stayed the same.


----------



## Optimus WC

I REALLY want to start a movement to make bare dies the standard. Like kill the IHS once and for all. GPUs don't use the IHS, why do we need CPU IHS?

And Justin is correct:

STOCK IHS (aka CPU out of the box): Signature Standard
BARE DIE (in die frame): Signature Standard
LAPPED IHS (aka sanded IHS): Signature Flat
SANDED DIE: don't do it lol

Really, the dies are very, very smooth and make perfect contact with a flat surface. The issue is the die frames out there aren't all that great and our super flat block won't make contact correctly. Our Sig Standard has a center area that bows outward to match the die area on Intel CPUs. So it can reach into the die frame pocket and make perfect contact. 

BEST PERFORMANCE: Optimus Standard with bare die and die frame.


----------



## Zurv

soooo my lapped IHS on the 7980xe and the foundation... ? Maybe that is why i didn't really any real perf difference from the already great Koolance 400i?
But it looks better so it is a win?


----------



## Optimus WC

Zurv said:


> soooo may lapped IHS on the 7980xe and the foundation... ? Maybe that is why i didn't really any real perf difference from the already great Koolance 400i?
> But it looks better so it is a win?


AH! Yeah, that's exactly the reason, it's barely making any contact because the IHS is flat and the block is bowed. 

Also, to clarify for everyone, the whole block is different between standard and flat. It's not a separate cold plate that's flat.


----------



## tistou77

With a nickel rockit IHS (flat I would say), the Foundation is fine ?


----------



## Zurv

Optimus WC said:


> AH! Yeah, that's exactly the reason, it's barely making any contact because the IHS is flat and the block is bowed.
> 
> Also, to clarify for everyone, the whole block is different between standard and flat. It's not a separate cold plate that's flat.


Should i lap the waterblock then?


----------



## Optimus WC

tistou77 said:


> With a nickel rockit IHS (flat I would say), the Foundation is fine ?


So that isn't ideal. The Standard Signature doesn't work well with the rockit (or lapped) IHS.

Actually, we think the stock IHS delidded with LM applied is better than the rockit, but we haven't 100% tested that. If switching to the stock IHS is an option, we'd recommend that.


----------



## Optimus WC

Zurv said:


> Should i lap the waterblock then?


Definitely don't lap the block, you'll break through. Also, our mirror surface finish is vastly smoother than any lapping could achieve, so better performance. 

I'd recommend going back to stock IHS (if possible) with LM applied. Or bare die 

Or we can see if we have any more super flat blocks to send you. We're thinking of discontinuing the super flat block because of the confusion and just recommend never to lap or replace IHS. Because both of those are to compensate for poor performance with other blocks. Ours works better than either of those with stock config. The only real gain to be had is going with bare die.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I've lapped ek evo water blocks it's okay all you need is the size of the chip not the entire surface 
Rest is just adjusting mounting pressure.

Direct die same thing 
If the direct die mount frame is too high grind off what you can and don't over tighten.


----------



## tistou77

Optimus WC said:


> So that isn't ideal. The Standard Signature doesn't work well with the rockit (or lapped) IHS.
> 
> Actually, we think the stock IHS delidded with LM applied is better than the rockit, but we haven't 100% tested that. If switching to the stock IHS is an option, we'd recommend that.


I gained a few degrees from IHS stock to IHS Rockit
Not too keen to return to IHS Stock 

With the Foundation, at worst, it would be as good as the EK Velocity, then ?


----------



## Zurv

Mr Optimus WC,

Have you guys done any testing on the impact of flow rate with your blocks (GPU and CPU)?
I personally target (and never get) 10LPM - i'm normally between 6-7. Those quick disconnects eat flow 
(i also run 3 pumps, multi GPUs and rads.) 

I do see cooler temps with more flow, but that might be because of the huge rads i'm using.

I use this:
https://koolance.com/erm-3k3uc-liquid-cooling-system-copper

and a 360


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I've lapped ek evo water blocks it's okay all you need is the size of the chip not the entire surface
> Rest is just adjusting mounting pressure.


DO NOT LAP OPTIMUS BLOCKS! I just know someone is going to try it  The performance will be worse and you will most likely sand into the micro channels causing leaks. Maybe it's fine for EK, but not us  




tistou77 said:


> I gained a few degrees from IHS stock to IHS Rockit
> Not too keen to return to IHS Stock
> 
> With the Foundation, at worst, it would be as good as the EK Velocity, then ?


Super hard to say, haven't done any tests like that, but chances are it will be equal or better.



Zurv said:


> Mr Optimus WC,
> 
> Have you guys done any testing on the impact of flow rate with your blocks (GPU and CPU)?
> I personally target (and never get) 10LPM - i'm normally between 6-7. Those quick disconnects eat flow
> (i also run 3 pumps, multi GPUs and rads.)
> 
> I do see cooler temps with more flow, but that might be because of the huge rads i'm using.
> 
> I use this:
> https://koolance.com/erm-3k3uc-liquid-cooling-system-copper
> 
> and a 360


For flow rates, our blocks actually have equal or better flow than competing blocks. Even though we have more fins and surface area, the total channel area is similar. 

And really, really hard to say what impact you'll see in your system with more pump power, naturally. There is a point of diminishing returns that gets hit pretty quickly. Also noise. Our testing internally is all about keeping things constant, so 100% D5 if we're doing that test. But, theoretically, since we have more surface area, our blocks will work better even with low flow since more water is in contact.


----------



## BMDJag

Optimus WC said:


> Good question, oxidization isn't really an issue. The reason for nickel is for liquid metal. LM will basically destroy copper instantly.


Ahh ok makes perfect sense. In that case my only other question is if the difference in cost is not a issue is there any performance difference between the two of them? Will the copper preform better or will any performance difference be minimal?

Thanks


----------



## oreonutz

Zurv said:


> Mr Optimus WC,
> 
> Have you guys done any testing on the impact of flow rate with your blocks (GPU and CPU)?
> I personally target (and never get) 10LPM - i'm normally between 6-7. Those quick disconnects eat flow
> (i also run 3 pumps, multi GPUs and rads.)
> 
> I do see cooler temps with more flow, but that might be because of the huge rads i'm using.
> 
> I use this:
> https://koolance.com/erm-3k3uc-liquid-cooling-system-copper
> 
> and a 360


So sorry, for jumping in here, I am just curious. 6 to 7 LPM??? I did the Math, that would be around 360 to 420 LPH. That is DAMN good flow for 3 Pumps and QDC's. Just curious how you achieve that. I have done quite a few Multi Pump system for Clients and myself now, and with 2 D5's going Full and 4 Pairs of QDC's in a typical loop I am seeing anywhere between 160 to 230LPH, would just love to learn more about your setup, if your mixing pump's, or just how you are achieving that flow.


----------



## skupples

so instead of lapping people can once again focus on just polishing. mirror to mirror (trying to repress Requiem thoughts) for try hard mode.

my mcp35x2 can move that quick, when only cooling my CPU & radiators, but i was always warned lack of restriction would make them burn up, so i cap them @ 2LPH. no perf gains after that, core temps remain identical @ 4 & 5. at least, across 4 480s. 

anyone ever debating triple DDC... avoid the xspc triple top. they die.

really though, it sounds like his flow meter is outta wack

"Cooling capacity: 2600W (8872BTU/hr) with 25°C liquid-ambient delta @ 10LPM" must be more than 1 d5 in there to make that happen, or its a stupid special kinda d5. not much info on their page


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> so instead of lapping people can once again focus on just polishing. mirror to mirror (trying to repress Requiem thoughts) for try hard mode.
> 
> my mcp35x2 can move that quick, when only cooling my CPU & radiators, but i was always warned lack of restriction would make them burn up, so i cap them @ 2LPH. no perf gains after that, core temps remain identical @ 4 & 5. at least, across 4 480s.
> 
> anyone ever debating triple DDC... avoid the xspc triple top. they die.
> 
> really though, it sounds like his flow meter is outta wack
> 
> "Cooling capacity: 2600W (8872BTU/hr) with 25°C liquid-ambient delta @ 10LPM" must be more than 1 d5 in there to make that happen, or its a stupid special kinda d5. not much info on their page


I actually wouldn't mind an dual pump housing made by Optimus. I have an spare D5 Next and i wonder if having two will reduce my temperature more. I have tried dual D5 loop in serial with my previous 7920X/2080TI and it didn't really reduce temps to make it worth to turn on the 2nd D5 Next. The main thing I like about aquacomputer is really its aquasuite software, i find it the most convenient to effectively control and change the pump and radiator fans speeds.


----------



## skupples

yep, aquasuite is life.


----------



## Zurv

oreonutz said:


> So sorry, for jumping in here, I am just curious. 6 to 7 LPM??? I did the Math, that would be around 360 to 420 LPH. That is DAMN good flow for 3 Pumps and QDC's. Just curious how you achieve that. I have done quite a few Multi Pump system for Clients and myself now, and with 2 D5's going Full and 4 Pairs of QDC's in a typical loop I am seeing anywhere between 160 to 230LPH, would just love to learn more about your setup, if your mixing pump's, or just how you are achieving that flow.


It is 2 Swiftech MCP655 / Bitspower Dual D5 Mod and the pump that is in the Koolance unit. I'm using the high flow Koolance quick-disconnects too. All pumps at max. I don't hear them.

On my system with the kingpin waterblocks i had to do some Y splitting for the flow or the block ate 2-3LPM. (ugh, those kingpin blocks just suck.)

(i uploaded the nightmare mess that is that system. I uploaded it in the past too. sorry for the repeat. I hide my systems and mostly just care about perf.)

My other PC with RTX titan SLI is only 6LPM, but the blocks are in serial. (i'm not sure what i was thinking when i did that.) But i'm going to put them in parallel when i get the Optimus blocks. 

I don't remember how much a difference the more flow made, but i recall telling myself when comparing it to a lower flow (lowing the pumps speed or shutting one off) - "oh, that is a kinda a big deal." My guess it was 3-4+ difference for a video card under load.


----------



## Zurv

skupples said:


> really though, it sounds like his flow meter is outta wack
> 
> "Cooling capacity: 2600W (8872BTU/hr) with 25°C liquid-ambient delta @ 10LPM" must be more than 1 d5 in there to make that happen, or its a stupid special kinda d5. not much info on their page


I have 2 systems that are mostly the same, but different meters. I don't know what KL pump puts in their unit. Without that extra two D5s, that pump can hold almost 5LMP. They have pumps that do over 16LPM. https://koolance.com/pumps-individual-stand-alone


their new unit is nuts for cooling, but it is because the fans they put on it are like jet engines. I returned it. 
https://koolance.com/liquid-cooling-system-alr-4500c <- NOT for home use. 


> Cooling capacity: 4600W (15,696BTU/hr) with 25°C liquid-ambient delta @ 10LPM


----------



## JustinThyme

Getting closer. One more bleed down for a remount of the CPU block and the ATX power cable is driving me nuts. Cablemod special order and it was supposed to be long enough. The standard one off the shelf that's red and black fit with no problems. Those few things and a little more tucking and tidy up on cable management and Ill be set.


----------



## oreonutz

Zurv said:


> It is 2 Swiftech MCP655 / Bitspower Dual D5 Mod and the pump that is in the Koolance unit. I'm using the high flow Koolance quick-disconnects too. All pumps at max. I don't hear them.
> 
> On my system with the kingpin waterblocks i had to do some Y splitting for the flow or the block ate 2-3LPM. (ugh, those kingpin blocks just suck.)
> 
> (i uploaded the nightmare mess that is that system. I uploaded it in the past too. sorry for the repeat. I hide my systems and mostly just care about perf.)
> 
> My other PC with RTX titan SLI is only 6LPM, but the blocks are in serial. (i'm not sure what i was thinking when i did that.) But i'm going to put them in parallel when i get the Optimus blocks.
> 
> I don't remember how much a difference the more flow made, but i recall telling myself when comparing it to a lower flow (lowing the pumps speed or shutting one off) - "oh, that is a kinda a big deal." My guess it was 3-4+ difference for a video card under load.


Nice Rig! I don't mind the crazy look of Wires and Tubes everywhere, it reminds me a lot of my own system, except mine is about 20 times worse on the aesthetics scale, and to be honest I don't care, its about performance for me. That said, because I have been infected by the Youtube Aesthetics Bug, Builds that have not been in Server Racks that are built for Clients I have started to spend a lot more time on Aesthetics, which has helped our relatively small company be put on the Map here in Vegas for Custom Purpose Built Pro/Enterprise Workstations. No where near some of the beautiful systems I have seen on here, as I am still growing and learning every day, but definitely better then a lot of the Off the Shelf OEM or Cookie Cutter SI Builds that we are competing against. 

Plus we have the added Benefit of taking the time to learn our clients workflow and tools, and building the rig specifically for that workflow, which has seen our Custom Building Department (Which is just 3 of my 11 Employee Staff, and Me) workload increase by a factor of 4, compared to our First Year in this sector, which was 2015. 

And Story incoming, so Spoiler...



Spoiler



Back then we did strictly air, because both my Partner and I were firm believers in not mixing water and Electronics. He got rather pissed at me when I started finally experimenting with Water Cooling in 2016, I was rather late to the game in that regard compared to most on this Forum, it was AIO's that got my feet wet, and my Partner used his position as founder of the company to ensure we did not include water cooling products in any of our systems. But by 2017 I finally started experimenting with Open Loop Cooling, and got into the Thermodynamics and Fluid Dynamics involved in making the process work. And of course my enthusiasm and excitement in discussing the science and theory behind it, finally rubbed off on my partner when I showed him a system I built with it, and the differences in temperatures compared to the same exact system cooled with conventional air. 

Then I showed him the QDC's, and how safe they were to deploy into even production systems if properly designed, and he finally agreed with me that we needed to not allow our Old Man Syndrome cloud our Judgement on what could be another way to grow our company. So the first opportunity I got, was a brand new client at the time who called us in for a consultation to take over IT Duties from their previous firm they contracted with because of that firms lack of dedication to fixing their issues, and outside of designing an entire new Network and Server infrastructure for them, an opportunity arose for me to overhaul their Small Render Farm setup in their Server Room where heat was becoming a real issue. I got to completely redesign and build a purpose built 4 Server Node, all Watercooled and Fitted into 4U Case Rack Mounted Cases a Piece, and it looked a lot like the rig you just posted. But It worked so well, and the system is still in use to this day. That was the jumping off point for including water in so many of our custom builds and custom add on's to pre built Server's/Workstations, and to this day I still love it. Have made some stupid mistakes along the way too, but it was this forum that really helped me soak up so much knowledge and help me along.



Anyways, That was a tangent. All of that was to say, I really appreciate your build, even if others may call it ugly, I find beauty in it, and it gets the job done, which is the important part. But that flow is much higher then anything I have been able to achieve using QDC's, but I have not used anything other then the Colder QDC's, simply because they are what I started with and to this day have not failed on me, on top of that I get them for a price that is damn near half of what I could for the other highly recommended one's from Bitspower and Alphacool, so I just haven't tried another yet, but if they make that much of a difference in flow, I will have to order a few sets in for testing.

Can't wait to see what Optimus brings to the table!


----------



## JustinThyme

LOL. You dont want to see the backside LMAO, solid cover on that so who cares. I know some go OCD like crazy and have combs and cable guides but Ive got just too much crap in the back to make the front look good. Its not horrendous, still laid out as good as Im gonna get it anyhow. OK just spent a minute and had to reroute that ATX cable in the back to its a straight shot and all by itself. Pulled it up with a wire tie as far as I dared to. Its still not perfect but damn near it! Much better!.

In my old days of folding I had 10 rigs in a closet on shelves with a network boot and shared PSUs, Nothing but MOBOS and CPUs with heatsinks and a NIC. Wires everywhere. I was way up there with those things cranking out 24x7 100% load and cranking my power bill. Then I check them on a Friday night, all idle. Im like *** is going on. Send an email to Stanford and they relied on Wednesday when they got the server back up. That was when I found out the whole distributed computing has been nothing more than a thesis project passed down from one class to the next. They told me straight up it has no priority other than that. I shut that farm down and that was the end of it.

Yeah performance is the name of the game but its nice to have your cake and eat it too!!

Now Im just down to a drain and block remount without the springs and try some MX-4 and see what I get. Its a lot easier when the board is out of the machine to get a good paste job and laying this puppy on its back just isnt gonna happen. Weighs every bit of 150 Lbs. One other thing thats eating my OCD is need longer cable for flow meter so I can go up and over. Goes all the way to the bottom of the case in the back to aquaero 6XT. I can see the flow from the front and it has an output for control. Guess I need a mini godzilla for the bottom.....


Edit, added photo door open.


----------



## oreonutz

JustinThyme said:


> LOL. You dont want to see the backside LMAO, solid cover on that so who cares. I know some go OCD like crazy and have combs and cable guides but Ive got just too much crap in the back to make the front look good. Its not horrendous, still laid out as good as Im gonna get it anyhow. OK just spent a minute and had to reroute that ATX cable in the back to its a straight shot and all by itself. Pulled it up with a wire tie as far as I dared to. Its still not perfect but damn near it! Much better!.
> 
> In my old days of folding I had 10 rigs in a closet on shelves with a network boot and shared PSUs, Nothing but MOBOS and CPUs with heatsinks and a NIC. Wires everywhere. I was way up there with those things cranking out 24x7 100% load and cranking my power bill. Then I check them on a Friday night, all idle. Im like *** is going on. Send an email to Stanford and they relied on Wednesday when they got the server back up. That was when I found out the whole distributed computing has been nothing more than a thesis project passed down from one class to the next. They told me straight up it has no priority other than that. I shut that farm down and that was the end of it.
> 
> Yeah performance is the name of the game but its nice to have your cake and eat it too!!
> 
> Now Im just down to a drain and block remount without the springs and try some MX-4 and see what I get. Its a lot easier when the board is out of the machine to get a good paste job and laying this puppy on its back just isnt gonna happen. Weighs every bit of 150 Lbs. One other thing thats eating my OCD is need longer cable for flow meter so I can go up and over. Goes all the way to the bottom of the case in the back to aquaero 6XT. I can see the flow from the front and it has an output for control.


WOOOOH!!!

Now thats what I am talking about, when I say my systems don't come close to any of the Sexy Systems I see posted on this forum. That thing is a Sexy Beast! Well Done my Friend! Well Done!


----------



## JustinThyme

oreonutz said:


> WOOOOH!!!
> 
> Now thats what I am talking about, when I say my systems don't come close to any of the Sexy Systems I see posted on this forum. That thing is a Sexy Beast! Well Done my Friend! Well Done!


Thanks
Like I said a little more OCD then Im done.
That flow rate is what happens with 3x D5 pumps in series! LOL. D5 Next at the bottom of the HK Res feeding into two D5s with a bitspower serial top. If that doesn't do it, Im done! Its actually tuned down just a little. They are all PWM or at least easily controllable. I tweak them all down just a little, none of them at the same speed. It creates a harmonic effect that cancels out the noise so you can barely hear them with the door open. With the door shut....nothing. All of them Maxed out and I get about 9.5L/Min


----------



## iunlock

tistou77 said:


> With a nickel rockit IHS (flat I would say), the Foundation is fine ?





Optimus WC said:


> So that isn't ideal. The Standard Signature doesn't work well with the rockit (or lapped) IHS.
> 
> Actually, we think the stock IHS delidded with LM applied is better than the rockit, but we haven't 100% tested that. If switching to the stock IHS is an option, we'd recommend that.





Zurv said:


> Mr Optimus WC,
> 
> Have you guys done any testing on the impact of flow rate with your blocks (GPU and CPU)?
> I personally target (and never get) 10LPM - i'm normally between 6-7. Those quick disconnects eat flow
> (i also run 3 pumps, multi GPUs and rads.)
> 
> I do see cooler temps with more flow, but that might be because of the huge rads i'm using.
> 
> I use this:
> https://koolance.com/erm-3k3uc-liquid-cooling-system-copper
> 
> and a 360


I have the Rockit bare die kit that I'll be testing with the standard Signature V2 here soon on my Z390 Dark (test bench)...



Optimus WC said:


> DO NOT LAP OPTIMUS BLOCKS! I just know someone is going to try it  The performance will be worse and you will most likely sand into the micro channels causing leaks. Maybe it's fine for EK, but not us
> 
> Super hard to say, haven't done any tests like that, but chances are it will be equal or better.
> 
> For flow rates, our blocks actually have equal or better flow than competing blocks. Even though we have more fins and surface area, the total channel area is similar.
> 
> And really, really hard to say what impact you'll see in your system with more pump power, naturally. There is a point of diminishing returns that gets hit pretty quickly. Also noise. Our testing internally is all about keeping things constant, so 100% D5 if we're doing that test. But, theoretically, since we have more surface area, our blocks will work better even with low flow since more water is in contact.





oreonutz said:


> So sorry, for jumping in here, I am just curious. 6 to 7 LPM??? I did the Math, that would be around 360 to 420 LPH. That is DAMN good flow for 3 Pumps and QDC's. Just curious how you achieve that. I have done quite a few Multi Pump system for Clients and myself now, and with 2 D5's going Full and 4 Pairs of QDC's in a typical loop I am seeing anywhere between 160 to 230LPH, would just love to learn more about your setup, if your mixing pump's, or just how you are achieving that flow.





Section31 said:


> I actually wouldn't mind an dual pump housing made by Optimus. I have an spare D5 Next and i wonder if having two will reduce my temperature more. I have tried dual D5 loop in serial with my previous 7920X/2080TI and it didn't really reduce temps to make it worth to turn on the 2nd D5 Next. The main thing I like about aquacomputer is really its aquasuite software, i find it the most convenient to effectively control and change the pump and radiator fans speeds.





Zurv said:


> It is 2 Swiftech MCP655 / Bitspower Dual D5 Mod and the pump that is in the Koolance unit. I'm using the high flow Koolance quick-disconnects too. All pumps at max. I don't hear them.
> 
> On my system with the kingpin waterblocks i had to do some Y splitting for the flow or the block ate 2-3LPM. (ugh, those kingpin blocks just suck.)
> 
> (i uploaded the nightmare mess that is that system. I uploaded it in the past too. sorry for the repeat. I hide my systems and mostly just care about perf.)
> 
> My other PC with RTX titan SLI is only 6LPM, but the blocks are in serial. (i'm not sure what i was thinking when i did that.) But i'm going to put them in parallel when i get the Optimus blocks.
> 
> I don't remember how much a difference the more flow made, but i recall telling myself when comparing it to a lower flow (lowing the pumps speed or shutting one off) - "oh, that is a kinda a big deal." My guess it was 3-4+ difference for a video card under load.





JustinThyme said:


> Getting closer. One more bleed down for a remount of the CPU block and the ATX power cable is driving me nuts. Cablemod special order and it was supposed to be long enough. The standard one off the shelf that's red and black fit with no problems. Those few things and a little more tucking and tidy up on cable management and Ill be set.





JustinThyme said:


> LOL. You dont want to see the backside LMAO, solid cover on that so who cares. I know some go OCD like crazy and have combs and cable guides but Ive got just too much crap in the back to make the front look good. Its not horrendous, still laid out as good as Im gonna get it anyhow. OK just spent a minute and had to reroute that ATX cable in the back to its a straight shot and all by itself. Pulled it up with a wire tie as far as I dared to. Its still not perfect but damn near it! Much better!.
> 
> In my old days of folding I had 10 rigs in a closet on shelves with a network boot and shared PSUs, Nothing but MOBOS and CPUs with heatsinks and a NIC. Wires everywhere. I was way up there with those things cranking out 24x7 100% load and cranking my power bill. Then I check them on a Friday night, all idle. Im like *** is going on. Send an email to Stanford and they relied on Wednesday when they got the server back up. That was when I found out the whole distributed computing has been nothing more than a thesis project passed down from one class to the next. They told me straight up it has no priority other than that. I shut that farm down and that was the end of it.
> 
> Yeah performance is the name of the game but its nice to have your cake and eat it too!!
> 
> Now Im just down to a drain and block remount without the springs and try some MX-4 and see what I get. Its a lot easier when the board is out of the machine to get a good paste job and laying this puppy on its back just isnt gonna happen. Weighs every bit of 150 Lbs. One other thing thats eating my OCD is need longer cable for flow meter so I can go up and over. Goes all the way to the bottom of the case in the back to aquaero 6XT. I can see the flow from the front and it has an output for control. Guess I need a mini godzilla for the bottom.....
> 
> 
> Edit, added photo door open.





JustinThyme said:


> Thanks
> Like I said a little more OCD then Im done.
> That flow rate is what happens with 3x D5 pumps in series! LOL. D5 Next at the bottom of the HK Res feeding into two D5s with a bitspower serial top. If that doesn't do it, Im done! Its actually tuned down just a little. They are all PWM or at least easily controllable. I tweak them all down just a little, none of them at the same speed. It creates a harmonic effect that cancels out the noise so you can barely hear them with the door open. With the door shut....nothing. All of them Maxed out and I get about 9.5L/Min


I've always been curious about the flow rate of what others are getting with their system in respect to the their set up. Hmmm.. So with my single Optimus D5 on my gaming rig, I'm getting ~5.0L/min ... I currently have, "comfortable tubing mode" at the moment as I wanted to avoid any unnecessary sharp 90 degree turns as the cpu and gpu restrictions are bad enough, therefore I didn't want to add to it... that's IF any of this even matters. I'm really curious now and may test the flow rate using some fittings on the test bench to see at what point the flow rate is affected with the sharp 90's. 
@JustinThyme, upon seeing your flow rate of 9.5L/min, that brings some assurance to my data on a single D5 at ~5L/min. 



oreonutz said:


> Nice Rig! I don't mind the crazy look of Wires and Tubes everywhere, it reminds me a lot of my own system, except mine is about 20 times worse on the aesthetics scale, and to be honest I don't care, its about performance for me. That said, because I have been infected by the Youtube Aesthetics Bug, Builds that have not been in Server Racks that are built for Clients I have started to spend a lot more time on Aesthetics, which has helped our relatively small company be put on the Map here in Vegas for Custom Purpose Built Pro/Enterprise Workstations. No where near some of the beautiful systems I have seen on here, as I am still growing and learning every day, but definitely better then a lot of the Off the Shelf OEM or Cookie Cutter SI Builds that we are competing against.
> 
> Plus we have the added Benefit of taking the time to learn our clients workflow and tools, and building the rig specifically for that workflow, which has seen our Custom Building Department (Which is just 3 of my 11 Employee Staff, and Me) workload increase by a factor of 4, compared to our First Year in this sector, which was 2015.
> 
> And Story incoming, so Spoiler...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Back then we did strictly air, because both my Partner and I were firm believers in not mixing water and Electronics. He got rather pissed at me when I started finally experimenting with Water Cooling in 2016, I was rather late to the game in that regard compared to most on this Forum, it was AIO's that got my feet wet, and my Partner used his position as founder of the company to ensure we did not include water cooling products in any of our systems. But by 2017 I finally started experimenting with Open Loop Cooling, and got into the Thermodynamics and Fluid Dynamics involved in making the process work. And of course my enthusiasm and excitement in discussing the science and theory behind it, finally rubbed off on my partner when I showed him a system I built with it, and the differences in temperatures compared to the same exact system cooled with conventional air.
> 
> Then I showed him the QDC's, and how safe they were to deploy into even production systems if properly designed, and he finally agreed with me that we needed to not allow our Old Man Syndrome cloud our Judgement on what could be another way to grow our company. So the first opportunity I got, was a brand new client at the time who called us in for a consultation to take over IT Duties from their previous firm they contracted with because of that firms lack of dedication to fixing their issues, and outside of designing an entire new Network and Server infrastructure for them, an opportunity arose for me to overhaul their Small Render Farm setup in their Server Room where heat was becoming a real issue. I got to completely redesign and build a purpose built 4 Server Node, all Watercooled and Fitted into 4U Case Rack Mounted Cases a Piece, and it looked a lot like the rig you just posted. But It worked so well, and the system is still in use to this day. That was the jumping off point for including water in so many of our custom builds and custom add on's to pre built Server's/Workstations, and to this day I still love it. Have made some stupid mistakes along the way too, but it was this forum that really helped me soak up so much knowledge and help me along.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, That was a tangent. All of that was to say, I really appreciate your build, even if others may call it ugly, I find beauty in it, and it gets the job done, which is the important part. But that flow is much higher then anything I have been able to achieve using QDC's, but I have not used anything other then the Colder QDC's, simply because they are what I started with and to this day have not failed on me, on top of that I get them for a price that is damn near half of what I could for the other highly recommended one's from Bitspower and Alphacool, so I just haven't tried another yet, but if they make that much of a difference in flow, I will have to order a few sets in for testing.
> 
> Can't wait to see what Optimus brings to the table!


I agree @oreonutz as I don't mind the craziness at all... Like I was saying above, I purposely tried to avoid any sharp 90 degree turns. Just not my style. It's hard to say at what point having sharp 90's will actually impede on the flow rate, but my goal with all my builds is to avoid using any sharp 90 degree fittings. Just personal preference. I like to use soft 90 degree fittings only if I need to, but for the most part it's much more satisfying using a silicon insert to bend the tubes to a comfortable 90 knowing that the ID inside is consistent at the same time. 

Speaking of QDC's I was going test the several variants that I have (flow rate), but I'm thinking that I'd need to add more variables to obtain more accurate data. - By just hooking up a round loop from the pump, QDC and back to the res/pump, there are no restrictions there other than just the QDC. Whether it be at test bench or regular desktop rig, there will always be the restrictions from the cpu block and gpu block ...well and the rads too... so I may have to just set up the test with all those variables included in order to get an reading on the flow rate... very interesting stuff nonetheless...


----------



## originxt

Received the Optimus Signature V2 a couple weeks back and have some pictures to share. Overall, I thought the package was shipped adequately, the box was tight enough to not allow any movement of the contents. The instructions can be improved on by highlighting the in and outs, although it can be inferred just by looking inside the block itself. The sponge surrounding the block tends to "shed," putting a lot of mess on to the block and inside it as well. I appreciate the thought of flushing the block before shipping but if those sponge particles get into the fins, we have to clean it out anyways. I would have weighed my heatkiller iv pro but top part is acrylic so the weight comparison wouldn't be fair. 

Stated in case people still had doubts, no I had no clearance issues with my heatkiller as shown in the last picture. I had to flip the optimus block since my tubing didn't reach and the ins and outs were reversed compared to my HK. I honestly also didn't want the hassle of taking out my rad to fix the length of tubing. The cpu itself is upside down anyways so it kind of worked out. 


-----------------------------------------------------------------

Sorry it took a while to finish testing. Just a note, I don't have sensitive equipment to read how much wattage is being pulled and such. However, what I can do is try to keep as much of a controlled environment as possible. I'm not suggesting that I did the best job in making the test and would appreciate some feedback on how I could have done better.

Room temperature was kept at a stable 24c +/- 0.5. Water temperature was always brought to a stable 30c before each test, stable being that it was kept at 30c for 5 minutes. Aquasuite measures temperatures down to a tenth of a degree. I do not have a flow rate monitor. However, changing my pump speed from 80% (3500 RPM) to 100% (4820 RPM) had no real effect on temperatures so it seems my flow is good enough. Being too low however, had heavy impact, for the worse.

Side Radiator fans (Intake): 1260 RPM
Bottom Radiator fans (Exhaust): 1400 RPM
Bottom Radiator fans (Intake): 1320 RPM

CPU: 10980xe
Mobo: x299 Dark
Fans: 10x Noctua a12x25 pwm (1 Fan pointed at VRMS) 9x on radiators. 
Radiators: 2x HWLabs 360GTS, 1x 360GTX
TIM: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
No Vdroop.

The results at the end excluding core 0 was just for my own curiosity as it was usually the outlier compared to the other cores which skewed the results heavily. 

At the end of each run, I averaged each core temperature and found the difference between the hottest and coldest core.

Any temperature result with 1 or less was considered the same and highlighted yellow. Green is considered an improvement while red were any results that were worse. 

Versions of the programs I used were included in the spreadsheet. 

The purpose of the tests were not to check stability or get high benchmark cores. I wanted to see how 2 blocks performed on my cpu and if there was something wrong with my HK block or my cpu is just poor.

TLDR: The block is good overall, I have improved core temperatures throughout. Whether or not those differences are worth it is obviously subjective. Roughly $200 USD is a lot for a cpu block, considering you can use the extra $50+ dollars spent on this block into other components in your build. But if you're like me and try to squeeze as much as I can from what I have, the block is worth it. If you already have a good cpu block, its a tough call. If you are looking into buying a new block, I would look into buying a block from Optimus, quality is definitely there.

Side note: I think my chip might just be garbage. Might just use my OC warranty with intel to try getting a new one but we'll see. The chip works fine and temperatures are great if I just drop it down to 4.7.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi, @originxt

Your core temperature spread is a lot 
You may still have mounting issues seeing the difference between coldest and hottest core temps are 19c just on R20 top score 

Jpmboy 10980xe is under 10c I'd say his is perfectly mounted 

https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-66.html#post28318460



Spoiler


----------



## Optimus WC

originxt said:


> TLDR: The block is good overall, I have improved core temperatures throughout. Whether or not those differences are worth it is obviously subjective. Roughly $200 USD is a lot for a cpu block, considering you can use the extra $50+ dollars spent on this block into other components in your build. But if you're like me and try to squeeze as much as I can from what I have, the block is worth it. If you already have a good cpu block, its a tough call. If you are looking into buying a new block, I would look into buying a block from Optimus, quality is definitely there.


Awesome mini review!! Good to see you're seeing 4-5c improvement on package temps for realbench and cinebench. And excellent benchmarking and graphing, really cool to see some serious numbers  Ah, yeah, sounds like that 10980XE is a strange one. 

For mounting, just crank down as hard as you can with your fingers (no tools). Sounds strange, but everyone here will attest to the need for solid pressure


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> @originxt
> 
> Your core temperature spread is a lot
> You may still have mounting issues seeing the difference between coldest and hottest core temps are 19c just on R20 top score
> 
> Jpmboy 10980xe is under 10c I'd say his is perfectly mounted /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-66.html#post28318460
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Honestly unsure how else to try and mount it. Block had been installed centered with good coverage of paste when I take it off to check. Also, I have the springs on the block. If I still have mounting pressure or mounting issues after that, I give up. I'll need to fly someone over from overclock.net to do it for me lol.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Wait - the port more towards the edge is the intlet, and the one more towards the center is the outlet?


----------



## originxt

Kalm_Traveler said:


> Wait - the port more towards the edge is the intlet, and the one more towards the center is the outlet?



From what I gathered, left is in, right is out. Left has kind of a narrowing passage to direct flow.


----------



## JustinThyme

iunlock said:


> I've always been curious about the flow rate of what others are getting with their system in respect to the their set up. Hmmm.. So with my single Optimus D5 on my gaming rig, I'm getting ~5.0L/min ... I currently have, "comfortable tubing mode" at the moment as I wanted to avoid any unnecessary sharp 90 degree turns as the cpu and gpu restrictions are bad enough, therefore I didn't want to add to it... that's IF any of this even matters. I'm really curious now and may test the flow rate using some fittings on the test bench to see at what point the flow rate is affected with the sharp 90's.
> 
> @JustinThyme, upon seeing your flow rate of 9.5L/min, that brings some assurance to my data on a single D5 at ~5L/min.


Every bit of bend does add restriction. Keep in mind also that Im going through 3 rads, CPU block, VRM block, two GPU blocks and a filter. 
Also what are you using to measure flow. I had an aquacomputer flow meter in temporarily to make sure the BarrowCH wasn't lying. Its pretty close, just a little under which on my dektop I see it with the offset in L/Hr which Im pumping full speed at 520L/hr full bore or about 425L/hr with them turned down and offset which is more than plenty. Thing is just to make sure if you have restrictions that your pump/s have enough bawlz to overcome it. In my case a single D5 might be marginal. I started it up with just the D5 Next and it was pumping 3.8L/m full bore. 

In the end, just make sure you design to suit your loops install. Ive run flex tubing a lot before I went hard line. I use a lot of hard 90s to keep it tight. I think the Distro even adds restriction. Just dont try this at home with a single DDC LOL. The magic smoke WILL get out of that pump!


----------



## iunlock

Kalm_Traveler said:


> Wait - the port more towards the edge is the intlet, and the one more towards the center is the outlet?





originxt said:


> From what I gathered, left is in, right is out. Left has kind of a narrowing passage to direct flow.


Correct.  I've asked Optimus to include IN and OUT on the diagram card on their next print run... There are however written instructions on the black card that comes with the Foundation block, whereas the white card (Signature V2) doesn't have any written content on the back.

(Default, how it comes stock. Signature V2 and Foundation.) 

LEFT Port = IN / RIGHT Port = OUT 

This is just one of those things, even experienced users would appreciate... I knew that the left port was IN just due to the orientation and having dealt with this stuff for ages, but no matter how familiar I am with it, if you have OCD like me, it'll trigger the OCD lol. 



JustinThyme said:


> Every bit of bend does add restriction. Keep in mind also that Im going through 3 rads, CPU block, VRM block, two GPU blocks and a filter.
> Also what are you using to measure flow. I had an aquacomputer flow meter in temporarily to make sure the BarrowCH wasn't lying. Its pretty close, just a little under which on my dektop I see it with the offset in L/Hr which Im pumping full speed at 520L/hr full bore or about 425L/hr with them turned down and offset which is more than plenty. Thing is just to make sure if you have restrictions that your pump/s have enough bawlz to overcome it. In my case a single D5 might be marginal. I started it up with just the D5 Next and it was pumping 3.8L/m full bore.
> 
> In the end, just make sure you design to suit your loops install. Ive run flex tubing a lot before I went hard line. I use a lot of hard 90s to keep it tight. I think the Distro even adds restriction. Just dont try this at home with a single DDC LOL. The magic smoke WILL get out of that pump!


BarrowCH meter. I also made a dedicated thread on flow rate. It'd be great to have you post your knowledge and experience there. Very interesting topic indeed.


----------



## JustinThyme

Kalm_Traveler said:


> Wait - the port more towards the edge is the intlet, and the one more towards the center is the outlet?


Reverse on Sig V2. When oriented with Optimus logo on bottom the inlet is on the left and outlet is on the right closer to the edge. My HK had the ports about the same distance in and the inlet was on the right and out on the left. This one is you look at the picks of my build the with the Optimus logo sitting as it should the inlet is on the left. My flow it pumps>rad<distro>VRMs>CPU then back to Distro. GPUs have another feed off the Distro and back then back to bottom rad, up to front rad and back to res.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

JustinThyme said:


> Kalm_Traveler said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wait - the port more towards the edge is the intlet, and the one more towards the center is the outlet?
> 
> 
> 
> Reverse on Sig V2. When oriented with Optimus logo on bottom the inlet is on the left and outlet is on the right closer to the edge. My HK had the ports about the same distance in and the inlet was on the right and out on the left. This one is you look at the picks of my build the with the Optimus logo sitting as it should the inlet is on the left. My flow it pumps>rad<distro>VRMs>CPU then back to Distro. GPUs have another feed off the Distro and back then back to bottom rad, up to front rad and back to res.
Click to expand...

I'll have to check the logo in the morning, that's why I specified the port closer to the edge vs the port closer to the center because left and right change depending on how you're orienting objects ?

At the moment I have my signature v2 block installed with the more centered port as inlet and the one nearer the edge at outlet above the inlet thinking that would help any air bubbles to come out.

Mind you my case mounts the motherboard sideways with the rear I/O facing up so even more critical to me to describe things using features which don't require a specific vantage point or orientation.


----------



## JustinThyme

iunlock said:


> Correct.  I've asked Optimus to include IN and OUT on the diagram card on their next print run... There are however written instructions on the black card that comes with the Foundation block, whereas the white card (Signature V2) doesn't have any written content on the back.
> 
> This is just one of those things, even experienced users would appreciate... I knew that the left port was IN just due to the orientation and having dealt with this stuff for ages, but no matter how familiar I am with it, if you have OCD like me, it'll trigger the OCD lol.
> 
> 
> 
> BarrowCH meter. I also made a dedicated thread on flow rate. It'd be great to have you post your knowledge and experience there. Very interesting topic indeed.


I actually took my aquacomputer meter and put it inline with an industrial flowmeter that has no moving parts. Mass flow sensor. It was almost balls on so that one I trust. 

The hamsterwheel flowindicator/meter like a bitspower you are lucky to get the dang thing to turn. Takes putting bushings in that are half the size of the already small G 1/4 fittings causing more restriction. Those are all junk, no matter who makes them, that is if you actually want to know what your flow rate is. Some dont care and settle for movement in their res or just a hamster wheel with no output to see it moving. 

Im too OCD for that performance wise. That wheel can be turning at half the flow rate that your loop should be putting out due to a clogged block, filter or whatever and youd not know. Me, I have an alarm point set when my Liquid temp hits 34C and when my flow rate drops below 350L/Hr. Aquaero goes to beeping and bright red LED among a field of black light up. 

I want to know how much fluid is moving and what the loop temp is which also controls my fans and if I pass 31C on liquid temp Im ramping up and at full bore on everything by 32C. I actually get good performance in the summer months too as I add a 5K BTU AC window unit that blows into the back inlet of my case and gets sucked right in, one of those Jayz2cents things less the ducting. Actually been contemplating buying a chiller and keeping the temp close enough to ambient so I dont get condensation. Then I can rip out all the rads and fans. Koolance makes a ddecent one but expensive at about $1700. Dont know how loud they get either. 

Best set up Ive ever had and I may make it a project to put it back in action is about 10 years ago I had to bust up the concrete in my basment for some drain line work. While I was at it I buried a bathroom hot water floor heater in the dirt encased in plastic, covered it up and poured the concrete. Glycol mix for coolant and res was a 5 gal bucket in basment. 1/8 HP pump to make the lift to the second floor. Used 120V relay with a 12V coil to start pump with thermostat wire ran to basement and tubing ran up to second floor. Totally silent. I didnt hear the pump in the basement. That floor heater is 6x10 copper grid and the dirt is always 60-65F. dissipated the heat no problems. No Fans, no rads in PC, nothing but 120V pump in basement. Thing is where my rig is set up now is near an outside wall and I ran the tubing up an interior chase so Id have to move my rig and Home office and a lot of work. Just worth the mention as it was the only geothermal cooled PC Id ever seen or heard of. Just a wild Idea I concocted with the heater grid being scrap and I had to dig up the basement anyhow. Cost me less than the rads, pumps and fans in my PC now! only way to get lines to where my PC is now is up the outside of a south facing wall so sun beating on the lines heating them up or up and over and back down which means a run through the attic which is also hot. Wife bought me nice desk for home office that is about 10x12 right off the master just to get my PC desk out of the BR area. No moving back now LOL.


----------



## JustinThyme

Kalm_Traveler said:


> I'll have to check the logo in the morning, that's why I specified the port closer to the edge vs the port closer to the center because left and right change depending on how you're orienting objects 😭
> 
> At the moment I have my signature v2 block installed with the more centered port as inlet and the one nearer the edge at outlet above the inlet thinking that would help any air bubbles to come out.
> 
> Mind you my case mounts the motherboard sideways with the rear I/O facing up so even more critical to me to describe things using features which don't require a specific vantage point or orientation.


The port closer to the center is indeed the inlet. Saying left is when looking at the block with the logo on the bottom, if I didn't specify that my bad, thought I did. 

Heres mine mounted normal vertical mount. Inlet is on left if this helps any. Easier to see whee the restriction is before plumbing. inlet on restricted side on left vs open on right or outer edge if you prefer.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

JustinThyme said:


> The port closer to the center is indeed the inlet. Saying left is when looking at the block with the logo on the bottom, if I didn't specify that my bad, thought I did.
> 
> Heres mine mounted normal vertical mount. Inlet is on left if this helps any.


Ah I understand now, thank you! That's how I have it connected as well. Going to refill the loop tomorrow to test it out since the 10980xe will be here on Saturday for comparison!


----------



## ThrashZone

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> @originxt
> 
> Your core temperature spread is a lot
> You may still have mounting issues seeing the difference between coldest and hottest core temps are 19c just on R20 top score
> 
> Jpmboy 10980xe is under 10c I'd say his is perfectly mounted
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-66.html#post28318460
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler





originxt said:


> Honestly unsure how else to try and mount it. Block had been installed centered with good coverage of paste when I take it off to check.* Also, I have the springs on the block. *If I still have mounting pressure or mounting issues after that, I give up. I'll need to fly someone over from overclock.net to do it for me lol.


Hi,
Boom that's the problem = don't use the springs 
Just snug all four nuts

Then give them all 1/4-1/2 equal turns or until finger tight 
This works best.

Not using springs is weird from other blocks I know but it does work best and keeps the pressure easier to judge than using the springs.

Even my 9940x is within 10c from hottest to coldeest cores at 4.8



Spoiler


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Usually the "in" its the one that have the most [email protected] to the inside if you are eye hawking it 😕


----------



## JustinThyme

Kalm_Traveler said:


> Ah I understand now, thank you! That's how I have it connected as well. Going to refill the loop tomorrow to test it out since the 10980xe will be here on Saturday for comparison!


Where you find a 10980XE? 
I see a few posts here and there but its elusive here. I do know that today Microcenter opened early with the Threadripper 3990X if you have that kind of cash to spend. $3990 just for the CPU and another $850 for a MOBO to run it. 64 cores would be great if they could get some speed out of them. Awesome for the correct workload but I need HCC and speed. Some things just prefer higher clocks on 2-4 cores where others are just feed me more cores. Thats why I chose 14 cores. Happy medium ATM. 5GHz and no not the HWBOT BS of 5GHZ on one core and the rest dialed back to nothing or disabled and hyper threading turned off. That's all cores all threads. Kinda interest to see what 1 10980Xe will do for clock speeds. What few Ive seen looked pretty good although reviewers are frowning and rightfully so as its just another refresh with different number. Dont Know whats holding up intel from getting off the 14nm process. They have been saying coming soon since the 7980XE.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,



Kalm_Traveler said:


> Central Computers in California shows 4 in stock tonight across 4 locations (1 each)... their website allowed me to place an order so we'll see if one actually shows up this time.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Boom that's the problem = don't use the springs
> Just snug all four nuts
> 
> Then give them all 1/4-1/2 equal turns or until finger tight
> This works best.
> 
> Not using springs is weird from other blocks I know but it does work best and keeps the pressure easier to judge than using the springs.
> 
> Even my 9940x is within 10c from hottest to coldeest cores at 4.8
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


I yanked the spring out last night without pulling the block. Just loosened a little at a time then pulled springs one by one and put the nuts back. Did this right two runs of blender full so things were heated up will then moved block around in a circular motion while just loose enough to move. Improved but still not under 10C spread. Two low cores never pass 75C and two high cores at 87C. The other 10 are all from 79-85. Sp low to high of 12C which isnt that bad on 4 cores especially when the other 10 are that tight. Beats the 20C I was seeing before.

Now for the really bad news. I put all the springs back and no change. I think this is just a rush to judgement on that part as what I did note when pulling springs in the first place is the thumb-nuts were not all that tight after heat up and cool down many times. Lesson learned? Heat up die, lossen mounts just enough to move it around and do so, then crank it back down. 

I'm not going to pull and re paste as I don't see much improvement even being part of speculation. Ill just loosen again while hot, without moving it this time then re-tighten and then check again in a week or so and tighten more if needed. The springs are not the deal breaker. If the mounting slots were a little bigger Id try the HK Iv Pro mount but Im not drilling out the block mounts to get them to fit. I really just like their mounting hardware a lot more. Its more solid feeling and substantial and you don't bottom out on a post. 

So @Optimus. The blocks are awesome but IMO you should revisit the design on your mounting hardware. You hold an HK IV Pro in your hand along with the sig V2 in the other and you can feel the difference Win on Optimus. Thing is though you can REALLY feel the different in mounting hardware and HK has you beat on that avenue. Their mounts don't bottom out on a stud so the stud height becomes the determining factor. instead of how much tension the user prefers by how much pressure then put on the springs. Gotta tell ya, If the HK hardware which is very beefy with nicely knurled heads would fit through you holes, thats what I would be using.


----------



## originxt

Received their springless mount. No instructions so trying to figure out which of these are actually used for 2066.

Edit: Received instructions. As I really don't want to spread more kryonaut as its a pain to remove and repaste, I'll try some testing with it just putting the block back on. If there is a huge delta, I'll do a repaste.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Shortest
The other mounting set is for amd boards not intel they are longer to go all the way through an amd board.

Use the same post studs you used before just don't use the springs.

Too bad Justin.. didn't have a lot of luck without the springs I did so did Jp but we use different paste 
I use nt-h1 and mx4 2019 and jp uses some swiftek stuff


----------



## Shawnb99

So don't use the springs for the Signature now? Was time for a remount anyways. Need to reapply the LM as well.


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Shortest
> The other mounting set is for amd boards not intel they are longer to go all the way through an amd board.
> 
> Use the same post studs you used before just don't use the springs.
> 
> Too bad Justin.. didn't have a lot of luck without the springs I did so did Jp but we use different paste
> I use nt-h1 and mx4 2019 and jp uses some swiftek stuff


Did a fresh repaste, Played around with the mounting screws as I ran runs of cinebench, but I can't get certain cores to drop or change regardless of how much I tweak each screw. Its probably just the chip or how the stim was placed between the ihs and die. I could better some cores but 1-4 degrees but hard to say what the real cause is as too many variables got changed.


----------



## hanzy

Just wanted to report that so far I am very happy with my Optimus AM4 block.
Great product and will certainly buy from them again.

Already have a block for my 2080 ti, but for sure will go Optimus for next GPU or if anything happens with this block.

If I had to voice a complaint it would be the packaging. Not the aesthetics of it. There was a decent amount of dust in there and no real protection from it getting into the block.
I thought I cleaned mine out pretty well and I did a pretty thorough pre-fill clean and flush as usual, but I have a piece or two of that same debris kinda stuck in the GPU block of all places.
I figured it would have stuck in the CPU block with the very fine fins on the cold plate vs the fairly large ones on the Phanteks GPU block.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> So don't use the springs for the Signature now? Was time for a remount anyways. Need to reapply the LM as well.


I took the spings off, one at a time and left the nuts loose, wiggled around the block right after a nice hot run of blender. ran again, temps got better. Put springs back, no change. I dont thing its the springs as much as it is getting a good mount with the TIM doing its job properly. I willl say its much easier screwing it down without the springs. Bottom line is no matter which you choose the block bottoms out on the studs and that is the determining factor.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Got the Signature V2 on my old 7960x installed in the new Rampage VI Extreme Omega tonight - CPU temp seems to be 2-3 C cooler on average compared to the Heat Killer IV block so not a huge improvement but it may improve once all the air bubbles have bled out. This is just a rough guestimate since my ambient room temp is usually more like 20-21 c but it's showing 26.5 tonight for some reason. CPU cores are all about 32-34 under light use.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

I dont know but my 8700K with 1.53mV (i just put it at that voltage for testing and warm up purposes) seems to be enjoying it, the TCase is the funny one
props to you @OptimusWC i know it can be lower too bcuz this setup is been back in the porch for ahwile non used and theres been a couple of -0c days... that lm probably is asking for a change too. this with the ihs on. i got enough proof now...

The mora3 is to the right of the ir gun and yes koolance 380 mounting screws just bcuz easy lol


----------



## Optimus WC

hanzy said:


> Just wanted to report that so far I am very happy with my Optimus AM4 block.
> Great product and will certainly buy from them again.
> 
> Already have a block for my 2080 ti, but for sure will go Optimus for next GPU or if anything happens with this block.


Awesome!! Glad ya like it  



Kalm_Traveler said:


> Got the Signature V2 on my old 7960x installed in the new Rampage VI Extreme Omega tonight - CPU temp seems to be 2-3 C cooler on average compared to the Heat Killer IV block so not a huge improvement but it may improve once all the air bubbles have bled out. This is just a rough guestimate since my ambient room temp is usually more like 20-21 c but it's showing 26.5 tonight for some reason. CPU cores are all about 32-34 under light use.


Not bad results  I bet once ambient drops back down it'll look even better



zGunBLADEz said:


> I dont know but my 8700K with 1.53mV (i just put it at that voltage for testing and warm up purposes) seems to be enjoying it, the TCase is the funny one
> props to you @OptimusWC i know it can be lower too bcuz this setup is been back in the porch for ahwile non used and theres been a couple of -0c days... that lm probably is asking for a change too. this with the ihs on. i got enough proof now...
> 
> The mora3 is to the right of the ir gun and yes koolance 380 mounting screws just bcuz easy lol


Dang, that's a torture test. So Optimus is doing good?


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Optimus WC said:


> Not bad results  I bet once ambient drops back down it'll look even better


Yeah even a solid 3c improvement is still great to me for daily ambient water cooling  

Left the rig on overnight to let air bubbles bleed out, ambient is 19.5 now and cpu cores are showing 25-29 with light use. 

I have a 10980XE arriving today to swap out so I'll report back how temps look with it cranked up (aiming for 5ghz all core if the silicon gods decided to smile down upon me).

For reference - current 7960x is delidded with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut LM between the cpu die and IHS, and Kryonaut between the IHS and Optimus Signature V2 block, set to all core 4.7ghz on 1.245v with 3ghz cache on 1.225v and the cpu is on its own loop with a 560mm radiator with 4 x 140mm Noctua iPPC NF-A14 2000 rpm PWM fans, and an EK pwm D5 pump/res combo. Pump and fans are set to PWM mode with temp/rpm thresholds set at 50% for 20c, 75% for 30c and 100% for 40c based on inline water temp sensor.


----------



## Section31

With all the talk about AMD/Nvidia launching there next set of GPU's soonish, hopefully Optimus can get the early samples so we can blocks out sooner than later.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Optimus WC said:


> Dang, that's a torture test. So Optimus is doing good?


you tell me XD

something more realistic for stress testing avx = blender benchmark cpu only run...

and

i dont usually do p95 anymore to stress test cpus i find it useless but heres an hr and half run with 1minute fft "avx" in place so i can go thru as many ffts as possible fast


----------



## happyluckbox

When are the threadripper waterblocks due to come out?


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Swapped the 7960x out for a 10980xe today and after getting its OC mostly dialed in pat, I'm still overall impressed with the Signature V2 block. Core to core delta is not amazing, under full synthetic load the hottest core is about 16c hotter than the coolest core but idle temps are 31-35c in 23c ambient for 4.9ghz all core on manual 1.230v (for reference on the 7960x it would only do 4.7ghz all core on 1.245v - though the core to core delta was more like 10c under this same block).

Do I need to remount the block to bring the inter-cores delta down or is this pretty typical for the soldered chips?


----------



## eliwankenobi

Check if your IHS has a convex or concave shape too. I may be that it is bowed and even if mounted properly, you will still see those big temp deltas.


----------



## agentdark45

@Optimus WC, any update on the Threadripper block shipping dates? UK'er here with my block pre-ordered and patiently waiting to get my system up and running


----------



## skupples

your monitor's screen temp is = to ambient?


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> you tell me XD
> 
> something more realistic for stress testing avx = blender benchmark cpu only run...
> 
> and
> 
> i dont usually do p95 anymore to stress test cpus i find it useless but heres an hr and half run with 1minute fft "avx" in place so i can go thru as many ffts as possible fast


Hi,
Not enough tempertaure info from those graphs to say how well it's doing 
What happened to coretemp or even hwinfo for temps min/ max/..... ?

Nice screen shots though :thumb:


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

eliwankenobi said:


> Check if your IHS has a convex or concave shape too. I may be that it is bowed and even if mounted properly, you will still see those big temp deltas.





skupples said:


> your monitor's screen temp is = to ambient?


I'm hoping you guys are both replying to me (please use the quote option if possible as it makes it easier for the various conversations going on in each thread to remain clear to participants).

@eliwankenobi thank you - I was worried about that and wanted to lap the IHS but @OptimusWC keeps saying not to lap the IHS for some reason. A 16c core-to-core delta is not impressive especially after I was seeing a 10c delta with a delidded 7960x (unaltered stock IHS though). Honestly since I don't intend on upgrading this rig for at least 2-3 years I would ideally like to delid it and go direct die, but am afraid of damaging the die or shearing off SMDs since the die on these is so big and there are smds right next to where the IHS contacts the PCB - compared to the 1151 chips where the only risk of forcefully removing the IHS is a low chance of solder adhering to the cpu die enough to break it upon removal but there are no SMDs near where the IHS will slide around to delid.

@skupples if you were replying to me - I have a temp sensor connected to my Aquaero 6 that has the thermistor sticking out the bottom of the case not touching anything (there's about a 2 inch gap below the case) so it's measuring ambient temperature right there.


----------



## qes27

agentdark45 said:


> @Optimus WC, any update on the Threadripper block shipping dates? UK'er here with my block pre-ordered and patiently waiting to get my system up and running


This is the update from a week ago:



Optimus WC said:


> All standard product is shipping. The Threadripper and GPU blocks are still a few weeks out, Threadripper will be first then GPU.


Kind of disappointing after hearing 1-2 more weeks just about every week since December.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
A few usually means 3 not 1 or 2.


----------



## skupples

Kalm_Traveler said:


> I'm hoping you guys are both replying to me (please use the quote option if possible as it makes it easier for the various conversations going on in each thread to remain clear to participants).
> 
> @eliwankenobi thank you - I was worried about that and wanted to lap the IHS but @OptimusWC keeps saying not to lap the IHS for some reason. A 16c core-to-core delta is not impressive especially after I was seeing a 10c delta with a delidded 7960x (unaltered stock IHS though). Honestly since I don't intend on upgrading this rig for at least 2-3 years I would ideally like to delid it and go direct die, but am afraid of damaging the die or shearing off SMDs since the die on these is so big and there are smds right next to where the IHS contacts the PCB - compared to the 1151 chips where the only risk of forcefully removing the IHS is a low chance of solder adhering to the cpu die enough to break it upon removal but there are no SMDs near where the IHS will slide around to delid.
> 
> @skupples if you were replying to me - I have a temp sensor connected to my Aquaero 6 that has the thermistor sticking out the bottom of the case not touching anything (there's about a 2 inch gap below the case) so it's measuring ambient temperature right there.


gochya

I'm coming out of a 36 hour slumber, induced by a 102f fever, please excuse my more than usual level of brain dead.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

skupples said:


> gochya
> 
> I'm coming out of a 36 hour slumber, induced by a 102f fever, please excuse my more than usual level of brain dead.


yikes! get feeling better my friend!


----------



## JustinThyme

Drained loop again today and pulled block. Difference between cores never did settle down, got better down to 12c from coldest to hottest. I wish all my cores were like core0. 

Didn’t take pics but should have, just wanted to get it back together and bleeding again. Hopefully it doesn’t have thermal impact or I’m gonna be pi$$ed. 

Top left corner I have etching on both the cold plate and and the IHS. It would be right about where the top left corner is of the die, like very edge.

Had Kryonaut and the spread was perfect. Didn’t see the etching until I cleaned the TIM off. I was like *** is this as in 30+ years of doing this is never seen such, ever. 

If it has an impact guess I’m gonna have to lap my IHS and see if Optimus will send me one of the flat cold plates. Damn sure not buying another block at $200. 

Put it back with MX-4 no springs. Bleeding again now. Usually takes about 24 hours or so to get all the bubbles out of the GPU blocks no matter how many times I tilt the case every which way but loose. 

Just let it be and turn it off, relieve pressure on res and turn it back in every hour or so seems to help as you can see and hear micro bubbles coming back up in the res. 

If I can get the temps within 10C I’ll be happy. OC @4.8 Vcore 1.220 and full run of blender the hottest core is 86C and core 0 maxed at 74C. All the other 12 are maxing around 79-80C which is right where I expect it to be. 

Tried dropping back Vcore a little and BSOD like 3/4 of the way through. I’d like it better if it was like my GPUs topping out 42-43C with a 21C ambient and a liquid temp that never makes it to 32C. If I have to pull it again I’ll put pics up.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> you tell me XD
> 
> something more realistic for stress testing avx = blender benchmark cpu only run...
> 
> and
> 
> i dont usually do p95 anymore to stress test cpus i find it useless but heres an hr and half run with 1minute fft "avx" in place so i can go thru as many ffts as possible fast
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Not enough tempertaure info from those graphs to say how well it's doing
> What happened to coretemp or even hwinfo for temps min/ max/..... ?
> 
> Nice screen shots though /forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif
Click to expand...

 thats why i have coretemp open for (min and max) xD and the only important thing in hwinfo its the package power. The rest its in the screen .


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

JustinThyme said:


> Drained loop again today and pulled block. Difference between cores never did settle down, got better down to 12c from coldest to hottest. I wish all my cores were like core0.
> 
> Didn’t take pics but should have, just wanted to get it back together and bleeding again. Hopefully it doesn’t have thermal impact or I’m gonna be pi$$ed.
> 
> Top left corner I have etching on both the cold plate and and the IHS. It would be right about where the top left corner is of the die, like very edge.
> 
> Had Kryonaut and the spread was perfect. Didn’t see the etching until I cleaned the TIM off. I was like *** is this as in 30+ years of doing this is never seen such, ever.
> 
> If it has an impact guess I’m gonna have to lap my IHS and see if Optimus will send me one of the flat cold plates. Damn sure not buying another block at $200.
> 
> Put it back with MX-4 no springs. Bleeding again now. Usually takes about 24 hours or so to get all the bubbles out of the GPU blocks no matter how many times I tilt the case every which way but loose.
> 
> Just let it be and turn it off, relieve pressure on res and turn it back in every hour or so seems to help as you can see and hear micro bubbles coming back up in the res.
> 
> If I can get the temps within 10C I’ll be happy. OC @4.8 Vcore 1.220 and full run of blender the hottest core is 86C and core 0 maxed at 74C. All the other 12 are maxing around 79-80C which is right where I expect it to be.
> 
> Tried dropping back Vcore a little and BSOD like 3/4 of the way through. I’d like it better if it was like my GPUs topping out 42-43C with a 21C ambient and a liquid temp that never makes it to 32C. If I have to pull it again I’ll put pics up.


I'm seeing a 16c delta between the hottest and coolest cores on this 10980xe with the Signature V2 block. Same block on my 7960x (delidded + LM but stock IHS) the delta was 10c. 

I want to lap the IHS as well but will need that flat cold plate...


----------



## Optimus WC

We haven't done extensive testing on the lapped w/ flat plate vs regular Signature/IHS. But we don't think there will be that much improvement, if any at all. Yes, other blocks see a benefit, but ours is made to match the IHS. Thus why the spread is good. 

The issue could be more about the 10980XE and TIM application (or something else), not really the contact between cold plate and IHS.


----------



## zervun

Optimus WC said:


> We haven't done extensive testing on the lapped w/ flat plate vs regular Signature/IHS. But we don't think there will be that much improvement, if any at all. Yes, other blocks see a benefit, but ours is made to match the IHS. Thus why the spread is good.
> 
> The issue could be more about the 10980XE and TIM application (or something else), not really the contact between cold plate and IHS.


Do you guys have an update on the threadripper blocks - last post I thought I saw was that they were almost ready?. Not trying to rush just trying to plan my build time wise (I have pre-ordered).


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Optimus WC said:


> We haven't done extensive testing on the lapped w/ flat plate vs regular Signature/IHS. But we don't think there will be that much improvement, if any at all. Yes, other blocks see a benefit, but ours is made to match the IHS. Thus why the spread is good.
> 
> The issue could be more about the 10980XE and TIM application (or something else), not really the contact between cold plate and IHS.


I try that with my 8700k my ihs is lapped so my results prove that... now bare die i got into ram issues booting up wasnt detecting my ram overclocks put ihs back and here she goes no problems... got tired of testing took it off.. 

Here you can see how dry my lm was on previous tests lol. In the background you see the die guard installed but didnt go as planned as always when bare die YMMV. 

Now im popping out the 7940x to see if i have better luck on bare die the der8uer sucks bad the iceman was 1/3 price give me better results still a pita have a few rogue cores using a byski block but still have some issues mounting it in on my main rig so took it off and went with the ihs instead. i dont have the space to be playing around with cpu block mounting specially on this byski block that uses screws instead of thumb nuts with springs, my hand barely fit in as it is.. i have to mount it outside the case, then do my squeezing in on a TT VT 20 case 3 240 rads 2x1080tis yeah the case is jampack as it is just to find out its not making good contact then take it all out again yeah no thanks... I also have a rockit cooper ihs and a lapped stock ihs i did myself. 


Btw forgot to mention, props for the pointed edges on the retention bracket. i have to cut little piece of mine on the ek all nickel evo as it was pushing hard on a mount i had before on a ram stick scratching it even. Everytime i mount the block it will push the ram with force. Could be an isolated case but as a user off itx boards and matx every detail counts.


----------



## ntuason

Man I’m tempted to replace my stock waterblock for that Signature V2.


----------



## JustinThyme

Kalm_Traveler said:


> I'm seeing a 16c delta between the hottest and coolest cores on this 10980xe with the Signature V2 block. Same block on my 7960x (delidded + LM but stock IHS) the delta was 10c.
> 
> I want to lap the IHS as well but will need that flat cold plate...


If I throw out that one core Im under 10C now after removing and redoing paste with MX-4 over kryonaut. All depends on what Im running. Blender full run will work it hard and give me the widest spread of 10C is I throw out the one core that doesnt seem to get worked in that bench. Shows 100% load but not acting like it thermally. AIDA 64 they are within 6C. Think Im going to see what I get with a loop or realbench. That loads up the whole system.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Optimus WC said:


> We haven't done extensive testing on the lapped w/ flat plate vs regular Signature/IHS. But we don't think there will be that much improvement, if any at all. Yes, other blocks see a benefit, but ours is made to match the IHS. Thus why the spread is good.
> 
> The issue could be more about the 10980XE and TIM application (or something else), not really the contact between cold plate and IHS.


16c isn't good though, that's the problem - also everyone says their blocks are machines to match the stock IHS.

Could be TIM but that's not something I can personally address since these soldered HEDT chips are basically impossible to delid safely.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

@OptimusWC the 20xx screws with the spring are too short for ihs and some play i need the springs on a bare die mount. Im running out of room on bare die trying to close the gap between the cores in the ihs has to be worst. I can switch the temps while running a load between cores up to 15-20c discrepancies..

Trying to close the gap in this cpus in the temp spread between cores is a damn pita .. That die needs to be sanded down for this to work without messing too much with it.. Not for the faint of heart.

Best spread i have so far except for the rogue core 13
I can make core 13 as cold 0 and core 0 as hot as core 13 lol


----------



## JustinThyme

Kalm_Traveler said:


> 16c isn't good though, that's the problem - also everyone says their blocks are machines to match the stock IHS.
> 
> Could be TIM but that's not something I can personally address since these soldered HEDT chips are basically impossible to delid safely.


Ill not blame it on the 99XX and later. 79XX, yes you can get a bad factory job which is the norm or bad delid and LM application.

Mine Ill not entertain any of that as I know what Ive been getting the last year with the same chip on an HK IV pro Block. I dont use cheap TIM including the garbage they sent me with the block. 

Ive not done bare die since thats was the way the chips came with no IHS, they didnt exist.
Here is my result after a 30 min run or realbench stress test. Which pings the whole system. I happy with it and the performance is slightly better than the HK IV pro I was using before but not by any stellar amount. 2-3C tops on worst core. The spread on delta is bit better.

Im not sure how blender works and exactly what its stress and I cant take its temps for a delta when Im seeing 14 cores all over the place with how much load they have on them and how much adaptive volatage they have. The real bench is a real workload. My AVX offest is set to 0 so it got as slammed as its gonna get with that stress test.

I normally run avx 2 and avx 512 at 3 for offsets but wanted to see what Id get here. Also lowered my Vcore just a smidge from 1.225 to 1.220 where its going to stay seeing how it passed a stress test there multiple runs. Also updated BIOS to 2002 with the tistou hack microcode 64. mY CGnge it to the 49 microcode to see what I get as that runs a little cooler for some reason. 

Anyhow how here's the results after 30 mins realbench stress test 64GB ram that ran my overkill cooling system to fans and pumps at 100%. GPUS OCd to 2150 which just drives the coolant temp up that much higher followed by a cool down. 4.8GHZ all core, Vcore 1.220 Mesh at 3GHz. 2X Strix 2080Ti O11G cards OCd 1815 on the dial that results in 2145 GPU Clock.

Overall Im not displeased and like I said it tops the HK but not by much. Its not gaining me any OC, just allowing me to the same while keeping temps under or about 80C. If I had it to do over again? Id have left the HK block on. 

Hopefully Optimus develops into a major competitor so we have a good manufacturer in the US But Ill call a big steaming pile of BS on anyone who says they got 5-8C better with all else being the same at least on X299. I did a few different mounts and two different TIMS and nothing really changed with those mounts and Kryonaut or MX-4. 2C-3C tops is what you can expect and a slightly better delta. Should have just put that $$ into jar towards a chiller.


----------



## iunlock

Optimus WC said:


> We haven't done extensive testing on the lapped w/ flat plate vs regular Signature/IHS. But we don't think there will be that much improvement, if any at all. Yes, other blocks see a benefit, but ours is made to match the IHS. Thus why the spread is good.
> 
> The issue could be more about the 10980XE and TIM application (or something else), not really the contact between cold plate and IHS.





ntuason said:


> Man I’m tempted to replace my stock waterblock for that Signature V2.



@ntuason, The Signature V2 is great block. It is doing well on both of my test benches and I have the Foundation block in my gaming rig, that is doing equally as great in respect to the set up. I own many blocks from pretty much all the old school well known block makers. If they performed better I would not be using Optimus, but my Signature V2 and Foundation blocks are far outperforming the former blocks. On both of my test benches, even a conservative 1-2C improvement are big numbers in the benching realm when on water. However, the differences are realistically more around 4-5C on average conservatively, compared to my previous blocks.

Again, if there was something better I'd be using it in a heart beat. So far Optimus has been proving itself so on my systems they shall remain... I'm pretty happy with it. 

@Optimus WC, attach is a pic of my 1 Hour gaming session on my gaming desktop with the Foundation Block/ (50x All Core Daily Setting).

The main point here is to know that I'm not even using thermal paste on my 9900KF that is currently in there right now, hence the core differentials. Not terrible, but just pointing that out, as I'm confident that it wouldn't have those kind of differentials if I had thermals paste on it. 

Instead I'm purposely using a graphite pad since I'm swapping CPU's in and out very often for my own testing and collecting of varies data. The temps will be even better with actual thermal paste when I finally put the KS in there as planned. From my own data collected over many tests, having actual thermal paste yields on avg. 2C improvements over using a graphite pad.

I've also attached a pic of my recent CBR20, CBR15 and CBR11.5 benchmarks from the gaming desktop: 9900K @ 5.2GHz at Ambient using the Foundation Block. (Pretty impressed considering that this isn't even my test bench... just a daily driver gaming rig pumping out these numbers.)

No hype, no toys R' us jumping with enthusiasm... just hard core data and facts. 

Enjoy.


----------



## qes27

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> A few usually means 3 not 1 or 2.


Hi, you misunderstand. Optimus has posted several times over the last two months that they expected to start shipping Threadripper blocks in another week or two. After missing all of those hopeful dates, now the word is 3 more weeks.


----------



## oreonutz

qes27 said:


> Hi, you misunderstand. Optimus has posted several times over the last two months that they expected to start shipping Threadripper blocks in another week or two. After missing all of those hopeful dates, now the word is 3 more weeks.


I get the point, but being someone who has been in the manufacturing and creative business, I also can completely understand it. These guys are a new, relatively small company. They are throwing their entire manpower behind shipping out orders and designing the new products. Unfortunately there are all kinds of roadblocks that get in the way between prototyping and production, before you are even ready to ship, and as the person in charge you are always optimistic about when your product will be ready. But especially with smaller companies, set backs will happen, that is just the nature of the business, the important thing is that they allow their timeline to be set back, and don't just ship a flawed product, simply to meet a deadline. We are waiting with baited breath for their new products because we know, when Optimus ships a product, they really have put their all into it, and can expect it to be top notch. They know we expect that as well, so as much as it pains them, they will continue to push back the time line as long as it takes to make the product as perfect as possible. Yes as a consumer its disappointing, but life goes on, and the blocks will be here soon enough. If you want "Good Enough" than EK might be more your style, if you want a passionately made product with an eye for detail, and performance that is second to none, with top notch manufacturing quality, then you wait until they finally say they are shipping. The wait will be worth it.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

iunlock said:


> Optimus WC said:
> 
> 
> 
> We haven't done extensive testing on the lapped w/ flat plate vs regular Signature/IHS. But we don't think there will be that much improvement, if any at all. Yes, other blocks see a benefit, but ours is made to match the IHS. Thus why the spread is good.
> 
> The issue could be more about the 10980XE and TIM application (or something else), not really the contact between cold plate and IHS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ntuason said:
> 
> 
> 
> Man Iâ€™️m tempted to replace my stock waterblock for that Signature V2.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> @ntuason, The Signature V2 is great block. It is doing well on both of my test benches and I have the Foundation block in my gaming rig, that is doing equally as great in respect to the set up. I own many blocks from pretty much all the old school well known block makers. If they performed better I would not be using Optimus, but my Signature V2 and Foundation blocks are far outperforming the former blocks. On both of my test benches, even a conservative 1-2C improvement are big numbers in the benching realm when on water. However, the differences are realistically more around 4-5C on average conservatively, compared to my previous blocks.
> 
> Again, if there was something better I'd be using it in a heart beat. So far Optimus has been proving itself so on my systems they shall remain... I'm pretty happy with it.
> 
> @Optimus WC, attach is a pic of my 1 Hour gaming session on my gaming desktop with the Foundation Block/ (50x All Core Daily Setting).
> 
> The main point here is to know that I'm not even using thermal paste on my 9900KF that is currently in there right now, hence the core differentials. Not terrible, but just pointing that out, as I'm confident that it wouldn't have those kind of differentials if I had thermals paste on it.
> 
> Instead I'm purposely using a graphite pad since I'm swapping CPU's in and out very often for my own testing and collecting of varies data. The temps will be even better with actual thermal paste when I finally put the KS in there as planned. From my own data collected over many tests, having actual thermal paste yields on avg. 2C improvements over using a graphite pad.
> 
> I've also attached a pic of my recent CBR20, CBR15 and CBR11.5 benchmarks from the gaming desktop: 9900K @ 5.2GHz at Ambient using the Foundation Block. (Pretty impressed considering that this isn't even my test bench... just a daily driver gaming rig pumping out these numbers.)
> 
> No hype, no toys R' us jumping with enthusiasm... just hard core data and facts.
> 
> Enjoy. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

 cpu package power is under 60w 😕 a cb run even at those voltage would not be under 60w.. Just an observation. svid disable would show something like that...



@OptimusWC yep the screws and springs together are useless with the ihs on...im using just the thumb screws right about now gave up on bare die so you own me a new "working set" im going to lap the front of my bare die kit to see if thats the problem i already modified enough for the 7940x as it is... 


Problem with this board vrm gets hot pretty quick and it runs my 7940x hotter than my 7980xe on my evga micro2 😞.... At 1.18mV the 7940xe consume as much watts "up to 360w out of the socket as my 7980xe which carry 2more cores lol. My main board is the evga micro2 0 problems in that one.


----------



## ThrashZone

Kalm_Traveler said:


> I'm seeing a 16c delta between the hottest and coolest cores on this 10980xe with the Signature V2 block. Same block on my 7960x (delidded + LM but stock IHS) the delta was 10c.
> 
> I want to lap the IHS as well but will need that flat cold plate...


Hi,
Just like Justin you just have to fiddle with mounting 
Have you removed the chip and set it on top of the water block and see how it sits on the signature sounds like maybe too much bow on the water block possibly ?

UPS has got one for me maybe they will actually deliver it today but I doubt it UPS is pretty useless at delivery on my property 
USPS is 100% where as UPS is a mere 10% chance Fedex is about the same 10% both companies are lazy as hell.

Lapping a 10980xe would flush Intel warranty 
I'm on my third 9940x so I would advise against flushing the intel warranty 



JustinThyme said:


> If I throw out that one core Im under 10C now after removing and redoing paste with MX-4 over kryonaut. All depends on what Im running. Blender full run will work it hard and give me the widest spread of 10C is I throw out the one core that doesnt seem to get worked in that bench. Shows 100% load but not acting like it thermally. AIDA 64 they are within 6C. Think Im going to see what I get with a loop or realbench. That loads up the whole system.


Hi,
Your last temp sub was 11c temp spread so that is a lot better than before after first mount so clearly mounting is improving but foundation 120.00 could of done that or at least did for me for a lot less damage than 200. for the sig.

You may find you can clock higher and keep about the same temps 
You really haven't shown images of before and after core temp comparison either which sucks 
I'm too lazy to look around for all your prior temperature images if you have any of HK 4 pro. same clocks and benchmarks.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

The best i can manage in this board without the vrms going into throttle mode with active cooling on the vrms lol

Realbench 2.56 7940x with rockit cooper ihs @ 1.2mV @ 46x no avx divider max "socket draw" was 374w average around 350w... Ambient look at the motherboard temp as this is an open bench... 100% certain i will get way better temps with the 7980X on the micro2 board this cpu gets hotter than that one and sucks more power too with less voltage.

Also run p95 no avx 12/12k for 20min.... avg socket power draw shy of 400w "constant 398w" avg the vrms where so close to throttle @ 110c xD.. You guys CANT say i wasnt pushing the bastard lol..

Package power draw is important to mention it for cooling purposes btw not the voltage....


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Just like Justin you just have to fiddle with mounting
> Have you removed the chip and set it on top of the water block and see how it sits on the signature sounds like maybe too much bow on the water block possibly ?
> 
> UPS has got one for me maybe they will actually deliver it today but I doubt it UPS is pretty useless at delivery on my property
> USPS is 100% where as UPS is a mere 10% chance Fedex is about the same 10% both companies are lazy as hell.
> 
> Lapping a 10980xe would flush Intel warranty
> I'm on my third 9940x so I would advise against flushing the intel warranty


I can try this. Did not check the chip on top of the block but that is easy enough too. 7960x IHS and this block were a good match but maybe not with the 10980xe.

I'm not afraid of warranty as I have never returned a CPU, and 7960x was a tray chip so didn't even have a warranty in the first place. That said, no reason to needlessly alter it if that won't help thermals.


----------



## Optimus WC

*UPDATES!!

MOUNTING: *
Anyone with a Signature that wants the springless mounting, email [email protected] (and say "plz send springless mount, my order number is") and we'll send it out free. 

We have a known reviewer who will release a review shortly, showing the difference between springs and no springs is legitimate, with the new springless being better across the board.

We were including the older springs because, well, people who didn't like change complained  Even though the new mechanism is better in every way


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> *UPDATES!!
> 
> MOUNTING: *
> Anyone with a Signature that wants the springless mounting, email [email protected] (and say "plz send springless mount, my order number is") and we'll send it out free.
> 
> We have a known reviewer who will release a review shortly, showing the difference between springs and no springs is legitimate, with the new springless being better across the board.
> 
> We were including the older springs because, well, people who didn't like change complained  Even though the new mechanism is better in every way


Is the springless mounting different mounting mechanism then the original or is just not using the springs? Anyways message has been sent. Ignore it if it's not a different mounting mechanism.
#OP1162


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Shawnb99 said:


> Optimus WC said:
> 
> 
> 
> *UPDATES!!
> 
> MOUNTING: *
> Anyone with a Signature that wants the springless mounting, email [email protected] (and say "plz send springless mount, my order number is") and we'll send it out free.
> 
> We have a known reviewer who will release a review shortly, showing the difference between springs and no springs is legitimate, with the new springless being better across the board.
> 
> We were including the older springs because, well, people who didn't like change complained /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif Even though the new mechanism is better in every way /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Is the springless mounting different mounting mechanism then the original or is just not using the springs? Anyways message has been sent. Ignore it if it's not a different mounting mechanism.
> #OP1162
Click to expand...

Have the same question also i ordered from ppcs....

Make sure this " reviewer" they add " socket power draw" which ends as heat to be dissipated not the voltage, myself i do not care about voltage....

P95 with avx @ 1.35mV has the same amperage/current draw as a rog bench stress test @ 1.53mV in a 8700k for example....


----------



## Optimus WC

Yup, designed differently. Here you can the new (black) vs old (steel) mounting. The old cap is designed to hold the spring inside, while the new is obviously made for direct contact. Also, the new mounting unthreadded area is around 4mm while the bracket thickness for both foundation and signature is around 6mm. 

And right now we have anodized silver and anodized black of the new mounting in stock. We're making nickel plated mounting to match the Signature that'll prob be available next week.


----------



## Optimus WC

zGunBLADEz said:


> Have the same question also i ordered from ppcs....
> 
> Make sure this " reviewer" they add " socket power draw" which ends as heat to be dissipated not the voltage, myself i do not care about voltage....
> 
> P95 with avx @ 1.35mV has the same amperage/current draw as a rog bench stress test @ 1.53mV in a 8700k for example....


No matter where ya got the block, we'll get you new mounting free  We're not gonna hit you up for $10 + $10 shipping 

As for reviewers, not much we can do about their testing, especially if they have a system they've used with multiple blocks. Definitely we'd like to see push blocks far harder, since that's when the differences really shine, rather than testing with the CPU near stock. But, hey, we're just happy for the attention being a small company and all


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Optimus WC said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Have the same question also i ordered from ppcs....
> 
> Make sure this " reviewer" they add " socket power draw" which ends as heat to be dissipated not the voltage, myself i do not care about voltage....
> 
> P95 with avx @ 1.35mV has the same amperage/current draw as a rog bench stress test @ 1.53mV in a 8700k for example....
> 
> 
> 
> No matter where ya got the block, we'll get you new mounting free /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif We're not gonna hit you up for $10 + $10 shipping /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> As for reviewers, not much we can do about their testing, especially if they have a system they've used with multiple blocks. Definitely we'd like to see push blocks far harder, since that's when the differences really shine, rather than testing with the CPU near stock. But, hey, we're just happy for the attention being a small company and all /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Click to expand...

 Gotcha, will msg you later then...


If you look at my tests they are rock solid pushing 200w out of a 8700k constant not in bursts lol and 400w out of a 7940x running this board at his very limits. What you think 110c vrms is? XD

400w socket draw at 46x is the same power/thermals required to dissipate on a 50x 10980xe @ 400w theres no either way to look at it. Current=heat xD


I havent even pull out the 7980X on the micro 2 yet xD


----------



## Bart

Optimus WC said:


> *UPDATES!!
> 
> MOUNTING: *
> Anyone with a Signature that wants the springless mounting, email [email protected] (and say "plz send springless mount, my order number is") and we'll send it out free.


My order just went out, any idea if it would have included the springless mounts? Order number was #OP1411, FYI. I certainly would prefer those!


----------



## Papazmurf

Bart said:


> My order just went out, any idea if it would have included the springless mounts? Order number was #OP1411, FYI. I certainly would prefer those!


I'm curious about this as well. My signature block is out for delivery today and based on your order it looks like my order was six orders behind yours.

hmm.


----------



## Optimus WC

A little hard to know, honestly. When you get the package and it it's original, simply message me and we'll get you the new posts.


----------



## Bart

It's all good, I'm in no hurry anyways. The order just left the USA this morning, so I'm assuming it'll be a few days yet. Looking forward to this thing!!!


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> No matter where ya got the block, we'll get you new mounting free  We're not gonna hit you up for $10 + $10 shipping
> 
> As for reviewers, not much we can do about their testing, especially if they have a system they've used with multiple blocks. Definitely we'd like to see push blocks far harder, since that's when the differences really shine, rather than testing with the CPU near stock. But, hey, we're just happy for the attention being a small company and all


Next time you change the mounting or any part, you should announce it on any forums your on and your site and send out emails to all past orders this affects. A lot nicer to be notified of a change then just stumbling a mention of new springless mounts. Even if the change is superficial
You need a newsletter


----------



## JustinThyme

Kalm_Traveler said:


> I can try this. Did not check the chip on top of the block but that is easy enough too. 7960x IHS and this block were a good match but maybe not with the 10980xe.
> 
> I'm not afraid of warranty as I have never returned a CPU, and 7960x was a tray chip so didn't even have a warranty in the first place. That said, no reason to needlessly alter it if that won't help thermals.


All I know is Im done fiddling. Shouldn't be a complex process. HK block was as simple as a little kryonaut in the small x pattern in the middle then put screws with springs through the holes and tighten by hand until the threads bottom out leaving a nice spring tension on the block.

The way the mount is made for this block the springs are indeed useless and actually make it harder to get a good mount. If you do choose to use the springs I highly recommend mounting without first then pulling the thumb nuts one at a time and putting them in that way. Otherwise by the time you get the first one started the block is no longer laying flat and is up off the surface of the IHS unless you have the machine laying on its back or board out. Impossible installed in the case and vertical. 

They should take a page out of HK mounts on this one which Id be using if the screws fit through the holes in the block. Shame when the rest of the block looks to be well planned and crafted. Like having the ultimate wheels on a hot rod with rusty nuts holding them on. I find that when backing them out they also tend to back out of the MOBO bracket. If I ever have to pull it again I intend on putting some blue locktite on the studs and using a tool to get them in there good and tight before mounting the block. Again, PITA that should not exist on a $200 block. For that kinda $$ it should spring from the box when you open it and apply its own TIM and mount itself! 

On another note, don't buy into the its been flushed and clean theory either. Id never paid attention to this claim from anyone before but I did this time and it was a mistake. A lot of companies make that claim and its never true. The crap I've seen come out of "All of our rads are cleaned and flushed before they leave" vendors is unreal. 

This time it caught my attention on flow rates being lower than they should with 3 friggin D5 pumps. Im only getting 7/L per minute at full bore on 3 pumps in series. 

Granted I have a lot of restrictions which is why I went with so many. Then it drops little by little and Im like Wut da fut did I lose a pump as Im down to just under 5L/m. Im like Im not pulling that crap out again. Pulled power from one pump at a time and flow would drop by about 1/3...not the pumps. 

Drained down just enough so the filter is empty (thankfully Im smart enough to use one) and pull the filter and its a good 70% clogged with fine metals bits. Only one new metal thing put in my loop and it wasn't the redone PETG tubing. 

All Clean and dialed back pumps as all 3 at full bore are pushing 12-13L/m which is about what I expected. Dialed two back one at a time to lower flow rate and mitigate noise. Left D5 Next wide open. At a very comfortable 10L/M now, just over 600L/Hr


----------



## sakete

@Optimus WC What's the word on fittings? I see you carry your basic soft/hard compression fittings and barbs, but what about 90 degree bends, and plugs and ball valves? Are you planning on adding those to your line-up as well?

What about rads, this year as well, or more like next year?


----------



## ntuason

iunlock said:


> @ntuason, The Signature V2 is great block. It is doing well on both of my test benches and I have the Foundation block in my gaming rig, that is doing equally as great in respect to the set up. I own many blocks from pretty much all the old school well known block makers. If they performed better I would not be using Optimus, but my Signature V2 and Foundation blocks are far outperforming the former blocks. On both of my test benches, even a conservative 1-2C improvement are big numbers in the benching realm when on water. However, the differences are realistically more around 4-5C on average conservatively, compared to my previous blocks.


Thank you for the tip. I know you stated that you owned quite a bit of waterblocks, would Heatkiller IV Pro Intel be one of them and would you still consider the Signature V2 or Heatkiller IV Pro?

Thank you


----------



## chuggz

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, designed differently. Here you can the new (black) vs old (steel) mounting. The old cap is designed to hold the spring inside, while the new is obviously made for direct contact. Also, the new mounting unthreadded area is around 4mm while the bracket thickness for both foundation and signature is around 6mm.
> 
> And right now we have anodized silver and anodized black of the new mounting in stock. We're making nickel plated mounting to match the Signature that'll prob be available next week.


So, I'm guessing with the new design, because the threads literally extend deeper than the bracket is thick, these will easily support direct die, delidded, and stock IHS and everything in between? Does this mean instead of bottoming out the screws will need to be 'finger tightened to as tight as you're comfortable with'?


----------



## Optimus WC

sakete said:


> @Optimus WC What's the word on fittings? I see you carry your basic soft/hard compression fittings and barbs, but what about 90 degree bends, and plugs and ball valves? Are you planning on adding those to your line-up as well?
> 
> What about rads, this year as well, or more like next year?



We're going to be making metric hardline fittings in the next few weeks, then 90s are maybe a month out, hard to say. We already make plugs, but ball valves are gonna take a while since those are another level of complexity. 

But, yes, we're definitely doing everything! Will eventually do meters and all that good stuff, but electronics requires even more work and logistics. 

Radiators are definitely next year at the earliest. That's a big project  




chuggz said:


> So, I'm guessing with the new design, because the threads literally extend deeper than the bracket is thick, these will easily support direct die, delidded, and stock IHS and everything in between? Does this mean instead of bottoming out the screws will need to be 'finger tightened to as tight as you're comfortable with'?


Yes! Exactly. There haven't been really any issues to speak of, though some have preferences. But a reviewer did some testing and shows that the springless mounting is better performance.


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> We're going to be making metric hardline fittings in the next few weeks, then 90s are maybe a month out, hard to say. We already make plugs, but ball valves are gonna take a while since those are another level of complexity.
> 
> But, yes, we're definitely doing everything! Will eventually do meters and all that good stuff, but electronics requires even more work and logistics.
> 
> Radiators are definitely next year at the earliest. That's a big project


Cool. What are metric hardline fittings? Just fittings that conform to metric standard measurements? Good to know about the other stuff. And well I won't be waiting for your rads then, plan on buying some rads later this year 

Do you guys have the engineering prowess for electronics? (of course your answer will be "yes"). That's a very different ballgame to metal-work which is essentially all you're doing now. Will require good electronics engineers.


----------



## Optimus WC

sakete said:


> Cool. What are metric hardline fittings? Just fittings that conform to metric standard measurements? Good to know about the other stuff. And well I won't be waiting for your rads then, plan on buying some rads later this year
> 
> Do you guys have the engineering prowess for electronics? (of course your answer will be "yes"). That's a very different ballgame to metal-work which is essentially all you're doing now. Will require good electronics engineers.


Yup, metric hardlines are 12mm, 14mm, 16mm vs the 1/2" we sell now. 

And yeah we have an electrical engineer from a top university on the team, so he'll be working on those, gotta step on the liquid cooling measuring game


----------



## Papazmurf

Bart said:


> My order just went out, any idea if it would have included the springless mounts? Order number was #OP1411, FYI. I certainly would prefer those!



I would probably follow-up with Optimus about the springless mount. My order number OP1417 and it just arrived today with the old spring mounts. I went ahead and emailed them already.


----------



## KCDC

Very excited to be joining the Optimus Club. Been wanting to try one out since the first run way back when. SIgnature V2 ordered for this 9900x.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

JustinThyme said:


> All I know is Im done fiddling. Shouldn't be a complex process. HK block was as simple as a little kryonaut in the small x pattern in the middle then put screws with springs through the holes and tighten by hand until the threads bottom out leaving a nice spring tension on the block.
> 
> The way the mount is made for this block the springs are indeed useless and actually make it harder to get a good mount. If you do choose to use the springs I highly recommend mounting without first then pulling the thumb nuts one at a time and putting them in that way. Otherwise by the time you get the first one started the block is no longer laying flat and is up off the surface of the IHS unless you have the machine laying on its back or board out. Impossible installed in the case and vertical.
> 
> They should take a page out of HK mounts on this one which Id be using if the screws fit through the holes in the block. Shame when the rest of the block looks to be well planned and crafted. Like having the ultimate wheels on a hot rod with rusty nuts holding them on. I find that when backing them out they also tend to back out of the MOBO bracket. If I ever have to pull it again I intend on putting some blue locktite on the studs and using a tool to get them in there good and tight before mounting the block. Again, PITA that should not exist on a $200 block. For that kinda $$ it should spring from the box when you open it and apply its own TIM and mount itself!


To be fair, I saw a 3c improvement on average with the 7960x changing from HK IV block to Optimus Signature V2 block.

I'm just surprised that it has such a bad temperature delta with the 10980xe. May try to remount and will check for IHS flatness as soon as I have time to tear it apart a bit.


----------



## JustinThyme

Kalm_Traveler said:


> To be fair, I saw a 3c improvement on average with the 7960x changing from HK IV block to Optimus Signature V2 block.
> 
> I'm just surprised that it has such a bad temperature delta with the 10980xe. May try to remount and will check for IHS flatness as soon as I have time to tear it apart a bit.


Yeah thats what I said a few posts back, 2-3 C tops and anyone saying 5-8 is slinging bull sheet. For all you know your 3 C could have just been a remount and some new paste LOL. Im not saying that the block is junk, just the hype and mounting are. They got a pretty good start but need to get with the program with the feedback they are getting here and implementing the changes and not dump excuses.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah thats what I said a few posts back, 2-3 C tops and anyone saying 5-8 is sling bull sheet. For all you know your 3 C could have just been a remount and some new paste LOL. Im not saying that the block is junk, just the hype and mounting are.


Hi,
Seems pretty straight forward
Pack it up and send it back put the HK back on.


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, metric hardlines are 12mm, 14mm, 16mm vs the 1/2" we sell now.
> 
> And yeah we have an electrical engineer from a top university on the team, so he'll be working on those, gotta step on the liquid cooling measuring game


and let's be honest, it's a one trick show. Aqua Suite. Once you use aquasuite, everything else seems like intern work.

gonna be an up hill battle to get people to replace their AQ setups.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Seems pretty straight forward
> Pack it up and send it back put the HK back on.


Not far from it, honestly. The PITA of having to redo my loop again is the only thing holding me back. If I had flex tubing it would already be done, especially after the metal machining grounds found in my filter that clogged it up from a "Clean" block.


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> and let's be honest, it's a one trick show. Aqua Suite. Once you use aquasuite, everything else seems like intern work.


Yeah thats about the jest of it. Im wishing them well as we need a manufacturer in the US. The best you can hope for is people doing new builds. Im certainly not waiting to overspend on fitting again, great gravy!


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> and let's be honest, it's a one trick show. Aqua Suite. Once you use aquasuite, everything else seems like intern work.
> 
> 
> 
> gonna be an up hill battle to get people to replace their AQ setups.


Yeah, I just got an Aquaero last week and the possibilities are nearly endless. Very good hardware and software.


----------



## skupples

sakete said:


> Yeah, I just got an Aquaero last week and the possibilities are nearly endless. Very good hardware and software.


they're awesome. highest value item I've purchased in the hobby.


----------



## JustinThyme

sakete said:


> Yeah, I just got an Aquaero last week and the possibilities are nearly endless. Very good hardware and software.


I use a lot of their stuff but they dont do anything other than reference and Titan cooling on their GPU blocks. The active cooling back plate is the kicker. If I had a reference ot Titan thats what Id be running. Have HK on my Strix Cards and keeping them pretty cool, hottest they have seen since I put them on is 44C. Going from phanteks to HK on the GPU was like going from HK to Optimus on the CPU 2-3C lower temps. An improvement for sure but nothing monumental like going from EK monojunk to anything else, literally ANYTHING!! Its always a crap shoot, lets just hope that Optimus will rise to the occasion.


----------



## skupples

yeah, i'm curious to see this back plate optimus is fashioning for the 2080ti

my dream is a proper block for rear memory, etc, not just heat pipes.


----------



## Optimus WC

We'll definitely do a backplate with full liquid channels, it's just too cool not to  

For the GPU 2080Ti block that will be coming, the new back plate does a couple different things that improve performance. First, the back plate is going to be substantial with plenty of contact for all the toasty parts, basically the entire card. It's not purely aesthetic by any means. Then the next benefit is using the back plate to not just add rigidity to the card, but act as a real mount so pressure can be correct on all the parts. It's one thing when it's just a die, but the GPU has so many areas that need cooling and the PCB is so flexible, the stock mounting holes just weren't cutting it for the performance we wanted. Enter the mandatory back plate.

Regarding electronics, it's still a ways away, and we're not planning on tackling anything like the Aquaero (not yet at least). It's more about making quality temp sensors and flow meters. That's what we've gotten the most requests for. In the shop, we use a bunch of pro-grade stuff, and we think liquid cooling would benefit from some higher quality items.


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> yeah, i'm curious to see this back plate optimus is fashioning for the 2080ti
> 
> my dream is a proper block for rear memory, etc, not just heat pipes.


Now that would be AWESOME!! Im gonna be on my HK blocks for some time to come. I like the Strix cards, they have always done me well with the exception of having to wait to get a waterblock for them. They screwed the pooch wit the 2080Ti version by turning 2 of the secondary coils sideways. I tried to make sense of it then when the Matrix came out there it was. That entire game was about clearance for their build in AIO that went over like a rudder on a duck butt. Want to make a better PCB and use top shelf componenets and bin chips etc, great! But dont make it so different that everyone has to make a completely different block just to fit your cards.

Thanks for message @Optimus WC . It means a lot that you back your stuff and are really making a go for it. I'm pulling for you as we need a US company. You couldn't ask for a better test crew that what you have right here. Please understand I'm not being blunt. I'm a matter of fact person. That's the way most engineers are. We look at whats there and intentionally try to find flaws for improvement. I work in the critical power industry and most of our customers appreciate my tenacity. Ill keep you abreast of anything else that may or may not develop so you can put it in your pocket for use in development.


----------



## iunlock

zGunBLADEz said:


> cpu package power is under 60w 😕 a cb run even at those voltage would not be under 60w.. Just an observation. svid disable would show something like that...
> 
> @OptimusWC yep the screws and springs together are useless with the ihs on...im using just the thumb screws right about now gave up on bare die so you own me a new "working set" im going to lap the front of my bare die kit to see if thats the problem i already modified enough for the 7940x as it is...
> 
> 
> Problem with this board vrm gets hot pretty quick and it runs my 7940x hotter than my 7980xe on my evga micro2 😞.... At 1.18mV the 7940xe consume as much watts "up to 360w out of the socket as my 7980xe which carry 2more cores lol. My main board is the evga micro2 0 problems in that one.


It's a given that a CB run or any synthetic bench that taxes the cpu to 100% all core will yield higher power consumption. I just looked through all my screenshots during varies gaming sessions and the peaks are all around 55w. Games do not tax the CPU 100% like some bench apps do, thus it doesn't consume the same amount of power, which for real world data is more practical data than balls to the walls numbers that do not tell an accurate usage scenario. Trust me, I run all the bench apps, but for the sole purpose of benching, not to minimize power consumption. I pull over 1000w at the wall on my test bench with my 7980XE and 2080Ti when benching...I'm all for that. Not all usage scenarios are equal.


----------



## iunlock

Optimus WC said:


> We'll definitely do a backplate with full liquid channels, it's just too cool not to
> 
> For the GPU 2080Ti block that will be coming, the new back plate does a couple different things that improve performance. First, the back plate is going to be substantial with plenty of contact for all the toasty parts, basically the entire card. It's not purely aesthetic by any means. Then the next benefit is using the back plate to not just add rigidity to the card, but act as a real mount so pressure can be correct on all the parts. It's one thing when it's just a die, but the GPU has so many areas that need cooling and the PCB is so flexible, the stock mounting holes just weren't cutting it for the performance we wanted. Enter the mandatory back plate.
> 
> Regarding electronics, it's still a ways away, and we're not planning on tackling anything like the Aquaero (not yet at least). It's more about making quality temp sensors and flow meters. That's what we've gotten the most requests for. In the shop, we use a bunch of pro-grade stuff, and we think liquid cooling would benefit from some higher quality items.


It's fair to say that we really appreciate all the attention to detail that goes into your products. Your design method is clearly function first then aesthetics second, which although second they still come out looking great. I've always for the longest time wondered why a lot of these gpu block makers didn't address certain common sense issues. Like you've said that are a lot of areas on the gpu that get hot, than just the obvious areas. I've mapped out several gpu's when they were stripped down with just a universal block on them and you're right... that whole darn thing needs to be cooled lol. Looking forward to the new masterpieces. Keep up the good work. We know that you guys are a small company working on all cylinders to make things happen and we appreciate that.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

iunlock said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> cpu package power is under 60w 😕 a cb run even at those voltage would not be under 60w.. Just an observation. svid disable would show something like that...
> 
> @OptimusWC yep the screws and springs together are useless with the ihs on...im using just the thumb screws right about now gave up on bare die so you own me a new "working set" im going to lap the front of my bare die kit to see if thats the problem i already modified enough for the 7940x as it is...
> 
> 
> Problem with this board vrm gets hot pretty quick and it runs my 7940x hotter than my 7980xe on my evga micro2 😞.... At 1.18mV the 7940xe consume as much watts "up to 360w out of the socket as my 7980xe which carry 2more cores lol. My main board is the evga micro2 0 problems in that one.
> 
> 
> 
> It's a given that a CB run or any synthetic bench that taxes the cpu to 100% all core will yield higher power consumption. I just looked through all my screenshots during varies gaming sessions and the peaks are all around 55w. Games do not tax the CPU 100% like some bench apps do, thus it doesn't consume the same amount of power, which for real world data is more practical data than balls to the walls numbers that do not tell an accurate usage scenario. Trust me, I run all the bench apps, but for the sole purpose of benching, not to minimize power consumption. I pull over 1000w at the wall on my test bench with my 7980XE and 2080Ti when benching...I'm all for that. Not all usage scenarios are equal.
Click to expand...

Yeah i know, thats why i put both tests in both cpus rog stress test as more like 24/7 system at his worst an hr of rog would be more thab enough for that particular loop to normalize the temps anyway "mora3" my main loop have 6x120 & 9x140mm "phobya 1260" worth of rad space.. A little bit of p95 just bcuz.. Im not a fan of p95 like some peepz out there xD..


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> Kalm_Traveler said:
> 
> 
> 
> To be fair, I saw a 3c improvement on average with the 7960x changing from HK IV block to Optimus Signature V2 block.
> 
> I'm just surprised that it has such a bad temperature delta with the 10980xe. May try to remount and will check for IHS flatness as soon as I have time to tear it apart a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah thats what I said a few posts back, 2-3 C tops and anyone saying 5-8 is slinging bull sheet. For all you know your 3 C could have just been a remount and some new paste LOL. Im not saying that the block is junk, just the hype and mounting are. They got a pretty good start but need to get with the program with the feedback they are getting here and implementing the changes and not dump excuses.
Click to expand...

Theres nothing else to make at this point other than next step exotic cooling. This signature's block is handing draws of 300-500w with ease and without getting overwhelmed. This block is a expense that would last to years to come something like the koolance 380 for example. Still have that block with every cpu mount possible. Now a days everything is about flashing lights and looking pretty 0 performance oriented. Once you have the block in your hands you know it ain't cheap.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

zGunBLADEz said:


> Theres nothing else to make at this point other than next step exotic cooling. This signature's block is handing draws of 300-500w with ease and without getting overwhelmed. This block is a expense that would last to years to come something like the koolance 380 for example. Still have that block with every cpu mount possible. Now a days everything is about flashing lights and looking pretty. Once you have the block in your hands you know it ain't cheap.


I agree - it just seems like there's something funky going on with it on my 10980xe. Still need to try remounting / check for good surface mating between the IHS and block but I would feel better with a flat cold plate and lapped IHS. 

Honestly would really prefer to go direct die but I'm afraid to delid these larger die 2066 soldered chips. I've delidded 9900k and ks just fine but they're much smaller dies and have no SMDs right next to the IHS mounting spots. 9980xe (and I'm sure 10980xe) have rows of tiny SMDs literally right next to where the IHS touches the pcb, so while you CAN use delid tools to force the IHS off, we learned from der8auer that you are basically guaranteed to shear off all the SMDs on either side because there is just no room to scoot the IHS enough to break its solder without also tearing off all the tiny caps/resistors immediately adjacent.

This is a funny instance for me to be entirely heat limited with the overclock... voltage doesn't need to be uncomfortably high - but I'm limited to 4.9ghz all core purely because the chip just gets too hot with 5.0 voltage (seems to need 1.30 to 1.32 volts which is totally fine for 14nm but even at 1.240v two cores are hitting 90c under heavy synthetic load).


----------



## broodro0ster

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I believe whomever has used the optimus blocks on ocn have all been pretty impressed with not only performance but build quality
> Justin... is still working out mounting quirks
> Mounting an optimus goes against all other previous cpu blocks I've ever used and takes a little to get used too
> Once mounted as suggested it works extremely better
> 
> Foundation and heatkiller 4 pro from my testing is undoubtedly better than HK 4 pro
> 4.8 run on optimus foundation no avx offset was amazing only one core hit 90c
> There is only about 2c increase in temperature per each + multiplier
> 4.8
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.7
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.6
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.5
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Have you tried to mount the Heatkiller block without the springs as well? If you say the benefit is big on the Optimus block, it might be also the case with the Heatkiller block.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Kalm_Traveler said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Theres nothing else to make at this point other than next step exotic cooling. This signature's block is handing draws of 300-500w with ease and without getting overwhelmed. This block is a expense that would last to years to come something like the koolance 380 for example. Still have that block with every cpu mount possible. Now a days everything is about flashing lights and looking pretty. Once you have the block in your hands you know it ain't cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree - it just seems like there's something funky going on with it on my 10980xe. Still need to try remounting / check for good surface mating between the IHS and block but I would feel better with a flat cold plate and lapped IHS.
> 
> Honestly would really prefer to go direct die but I'm afraid to delid these larger die 2066 soldered chips. I've delidded 9900k and ks just fine but they're much smaller dies and have no SMDs right next to the IHS mounting spots. 9980xe (and I'm sure 10980xe) have rows of tiny SMDs literally right next to where the IHS touches the pcb, so while you CAN use delid tools to force the IHS off, we learned from der8auer that you are basically guaranteed to shear off all the SMDs on either side because there is just no room to scoot the IHS enough to break its solder without also tearing off all the tiny caps/resistors immediately adjacent.
> 
> This is a funny instance for me to be entirely heat limited with the overclock... voltage doesn't need to be uncomfortably high - but I'm limited to 4.9ghz all core purely because the chip just gets too hot with 5.0 voltage (seems to need 1.30 to 1.32 volts which is totally fine for 14nm but even at 1.240v two cores are hitting 90c under heavy synthetic load).
Click to expand...

Same as the 7980xe theres this particular core that gets like 25c over coldest core. I bought it second hand it was predelided and it has lm underneath. But i know i can fix that core with a new ihs and reapply lm my way at least i know it was applied correctly..

I would not loose sleep over the 10980X you have theres nothing else you can do other than to lap the ihs the 2 cores would still be high tho. Main reason i didnt bought one to begin with and stick with the 7980xe as a purchase.. Either overclock those 2 cores individually and lower the voltage thats what im doing with the 7980xe till i swap the lm and ihs. Main reason i bought this block too. Im going to lap/shave some metal out of the front of my bare die kit, get the new screws for the block and see how the 7980xe behaves on a open bench.. Btw, you can still mess up the smds on a 7th series if youre not careful too. Also dont get to bother if they are not close together the higher the draw the more discrepancy between them will be even delided.. This "if is not 10c or less its bad" ordeal would get to you lol.. Supposedly intel said to keep them under 80c which is quite impossible with a modest over clock or hefty cooling including delid and cooper ihs / lapped and plan to go beyond the 1.2mV with it. 1.2mV+ is already 300-350w out of it where a load will pull current like avx like blender or h264-h265 not talking about stress testing perse something more realistic.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

zGunBLADEz said:


> Same as the 7980xe theres this particular core that gets like 25c over coldest core. I bought it second hand it was predelided and it has lm underneath. But i know i can fix that core with a new ihs and reapply lm my way at least i know it was applied correctly..
> 
> I would not loose sleep over the 10980X you have theres nothing else you can do other than to lap the ihs the 2 cores would still be high tho. Main reason i didnt bought one to begin with and stick with the 7980xe as a purchase.. Either overclock those 2 cores individually and lower the voltage thats what im doing with the 7980xe till i swap the lm and ihs. Main reason i bought this block too. Im going to lap/shave some metal out of the front of my bare die kit, get the new screws for the block and see how the 7980xe behaves on a open bench.. Btw, you can still mess up the smds on a 7th series if youre not careful too. Also dont get to bother if they are not close together the higher the draw the more discrepancy between them will be even delided.. This "if is not 10c or less its bad" ordeal would get to you lol.. Supposedly intel said to keep them under 80c which is quite impossible with a modest over clock or hefty cooling including delid and cooper ihs / lapped and plan to go beyond the 1.2mV with it. 1.2mV+ is already 300-350w out of it where a load will pull current like avx like blender or h264-h265 not talking about stress testing perse something more realistic.


yeah I meant that if I could go direct die it would eliminate any chance of solder TIM under the IHS being the problem and I could use LM correctly. 

Definitely 7000 series can have SMD problems too but I delidded the 7960x no problems at all. What I meant is that with the soldered chips, you have to really crank on the IHS to break its solder, which ends up shifting it too far so you have to rip all SMDs off to move the IHS enough to remove it. I might try heating it up instead since that seems less dangerous. 

Keep in mind, my worry here is that with the Optimus block on that delidded + LM 7960x with stock IHS, core delta was 10c which is fine to me, which is why 16c is a bit worrisome.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Idk about trying to yank the ihs out of the 10th series tho I wouldn't tho.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

zGunBLADEz said:


> Idk about trying to yank the ihs out of the 10th series tho I wouldn't tho.


yeah I get you. Most people wouldn't do anything I do though... as the kids used to say 'YOLO'


----------



## Kana Chan

zGunBLADEz said:


> Idk about trying to yank the ihs out of the 10th series tho I wouldn't tho.


Don't you need to heat it first before pulling it out?


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Radiators are definitely next year at the earliest. That's a big project


Make them with multiple ports like the HWL SR2. Depending on config it can make draining/bleeding so much easier.


----------



## Krisztias

Hi Optimus!

Can you shed some light when the european customers can buy stuff without the horrible shipping fee?
Did you planning to make RAM waterblocks?
Thank you.


----------



## ThrashZone

Krisztias said:


> Hi Optimus!
> 
> Can you shed some light when the european customers can buy stuff without the horrible shipping fee?
> Did you planning to make RAM waterblocks?
> Thank you.


Hi,
Add country to the beginning of _____exit


----------



## skupples

Opti -

If i'm reading you correctly, then you mean competing with what barrow & the like are putting out via their OLED read outs. sounds awesome, and much easier to get spun up & going.


----------



## Diffident

If they ever wanted to make something like the Aquaeo, they can start out with one of These. Follow the Python setup, while also using info from this Guide.

This is on my to-do list.


----------



## HeyThereGuy

Sign me up for a RTX 2080ti FTW3 block.


----------



## jink

Diffident said:


> If they ever wanted to make something like the Aquaeo, they can start out with one of These. Follow the Python setup, while also using info from this Guide.
> 
> This is on my to-do list.


Neat! Recently a link was posted to... I think reddit... that had a DIY project for fan/pump monitoring: https://github.com/thegarbz/watercoolingcontroller It uses Arduino and C#, but very similar project!


To keep this post on topic, I should have a spring-less mounting kit on it's way to me!


----------



## ThrashZone

jink said:


> Neat! Recently a link was posted to... I think reddit... that had a DIY project for fan/pump monitoring: https://github.com/thegarbz/watercoolingcontroller It uses Arduino and C#, but very similar project!
> 
> 
> To keep this post on topic, I should have a *screwless mounting kit* on it's way to me!


Hi,
You mean Spring less mounting kit


----------



## skupples

uses new and improved punch down system! Yes, totally just like garbage OEM CPU coolers!    

jk.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Kana Chan said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Idk about trying to yank the ihs out of the 10th series tho I wouldn't tho.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't you need to heat it first before pulling it out?
Click to expand...

You can try that possibility the smds come loose are high as well tho.


----------



## JustinThyme

broodro0ster said:


> Have you tried to mount the Heatkiller block without the springs as well? If you say the benefit is big on the Optimus block, it might be also the case with the Heatkiller block.


Totally different mount. The HK cant be done without springs. The HK has Thumbscrews with washers and a spring that go though the mounting holes and right into the MOBO of the X299. The springs is what holds it on by compression. Pretty stiff too. With the Optimus there are studs that screw into those same holes then the block is placed on then round thumbnuts where the spring actually recesses into the thumbnuts. Thing is if you get one started with the spring its a major PITA to get the rest. if the spring are left out you can lay the block on then just run the thumb screws in until they bottom out then as tight as you can go without using a tool. It bottoms out on the stud anyhow.


----------



## MonnieRock

I got my Optimus Signature V2, raw copper / standard Intel Monday the 10th.

Sent a PM to the Optimus profile here and e-mailed Josh about getting the spring less mounting solution for order #OP1425.

Have not heard back from the PM nor the e-mail.

Is there something else I need to do ?

Thanks,
Monnie


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> uses new and improved punch down system! Yes, totally just like garbage OEM CPU coolers!
> 
> jk.


Yeah I’ll stick with my aquaero. You can set it manually or use the software. I use the software. It’s a PITA to get used to as the only “manual” is the aquaero forums. But I’ve not in a very long time had such a level of control over every facet of my cooling system. MOBO headers? Have yet to see any worth having, I use the USB connection and that’s it. Aquaero does the rest and his infinitely expandable using usb or their aquabus.


----------



## broodro0ster

JustinThyme said:


> Totally different mount. The HK cant be done without springs. The HK has Thumbscrews with washers and a spring that go though the mounting holes and right into the MOBO of the X299. The springs is what holds it on by compression. Pretty stiff too. With the Optimus there are studs that screw into those same holes then the block is placed on then round thumbnuts where the spring actually recesses into the thumbnuts. Thing is if you get one started with the spring its a major PITA to get the rest. if the spring are left out you can lay the block on then just run the thumb screws in until they bottom out then as tight as you can go without using a tool. It bottoms out on the stud anyhow.




I know, there is always a workaround. Maybe he can put the HK on the mobo with the optimus mounting hardware. 
And if that doesn’t work, replace the HK spring with washers so you can tighten it without springs. 

If Optimus says the biggest improvement comes from the springless mount, it might help other blocks as well. So I want to see if the optimus block is still better than HK with a springless mount.


----------



## oreonutz

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah I’ll stick with my aquaero. You can set it manually or use the software. I use the software. It’s a PITA to get used to as the only “manual” is the aquaero forums. But I’ve not in a very long time had such a level of control over every facet of my cooling system. MOBO headers? Have yet to see any worth having, I use the USB connection and that’s it. Aquaero does the rest and his infinitely expandable using usb or their aquabus.


Amen to that.


----------



## ThrashZone

broodro0ster said:


> Have you tried to mount the Heatkiller block without the springs as well? If you say the benefit is big on the Optimus block, it might be also the case with the Heatkiller block.





JustinThyme said:


> Totally different mount. The HK cant be done without springs. The HK has Thumbscrews with washers and a spring that go though the mounting holes and right into the MOBO of the X299. The springs is what holds it on by compression. Pretty stiff too. With the Optimus there are studs that screw into those same holes then the block is placed on then round thumbnuts where the spring actually recesses into the thumbnuts. Thing is if you get one started with the spring its a major PITA to get the rest. if the spring are left out you can lay the block on then just run the thumb screws in until they bottom out then as tight as you can go without using a tool. It bottoms out on the stud anyhow.


Hi,
I hated the HK bolt.. mount so much I used ek evo mount instead because it was 10x easier to mount with the four studs and keep the water block centered while pasting...
But I did change to a bitspower mount without the springs just for the heck of it.
Springless is a lot easier to judge equal pressure on four corners without the springs in the way.

Not sure why HK used bolts for 2066 and studs... for 1151 it's just a stupid fail imho.


----------



## broodro0ster

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I hated the HK bolt.. mount so much I used ek evo mount instead because it was 10x easier to mount with the four studs and keep the water block centered while pasting...
> But I did change to a bitspower mount without the springs just for the heck of it.
> Springless is a lot easier to judge equal pressure on four corners without the springs in the way.
> 
> Not sure why HK used bolts for 2066 and studs... for 1151 it's just a stupid fail imho.


And how much lower were the temps on the Optimus vs the HK without springs?
I'm sorry if the answer was posted in this thread, but I could only find you results with the Optimus block and not a comparision.


----------



## ThrashZone

broodro0ster said:


> And how much lower were the temps on the Optimus vs the HK without springs?
> I'm sorry if the answer was posted in this thread, but I could only find you results with the Optimus block and not a comparison.


Hi,
Since I used a much better ek mount on the HK before the results without springs weren't much different if at all 
Final comparison was here and a few posts down with nt-h1 paste all tests before were with mx4 2019
Where the optimus foundation won by 3c cooler than HK 4 pro on the same clocks/ voltage.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-59.html#post28261118

The 45-46-47-48 were just on optimus foundation I could never do that on HK 4 pro 
I always had to use avx offset to keep it at 45 so the post you quoted was pretty telling on how well the foundation kept cooling past 45


----------



## keeph8n

Still waiting on one of these for Threadripper 3000 testing. Have a 3990X due to arrive in a week that I know the HK block will cool fine...........


----------



## jink

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You mean Spring less mounting kit


hahaha, yes. SPRING LESS. 


Attached are more photos from install a couple weeks ago. The Optimus backplate is far superior to the EK backplate and had zero interference with back of my motherboard (unlike the EK). I was very impressed with the installation of the block.


----------



## Papazmurf

MonnieRock said:


> I got my Optimus Signature V2, raw copper / standard Intel Monday the 10th.
> 
> Sent a PM to the Optimus profile here and e-mailed Josh about getting the spring less mounting solution for order #OP1425.
> 
> Have not heard back from the PM nor the e-mail.
> 
> Is there something else I need to do ?
> 
> Thanks,
> Monnie


I just followed the instructions from the Optimus Rep here and emailed [email protected] with the subject title "Please send springless mount, my order number is <insert here>". I also put a quick summary about being on OCN and that the Optimus Rep instructed us to send the email if we wanted the new mount kit. They got back to me the next day and said they were mailing it out that day. The email address maybe filtering for that. Try it exactly as above and let us know if that works for you.


----------



## Optimus WC

Responding to emails is a little touch-and-go right now, but we'll definitely get everyone taken care of


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Papazmurf said:


> I just followed the instructions from the Optimus Rep here and emailed [email protected] with the subject title "Please send springless mount, my order number is <insert here>". I also put a quick summary about being on OCN and that the Optimus Rep instructed us to send the email if we wanted the new mount kit. They got back to me the next day and said they were mailing it out that day. The email address maybe filtering for that. Try it exactly as above and let us know if that works for you.


Thanks for the reminder - I just sent my email for the same thing this morning. Hopefully with the springless mount I'll get a bit better temps on this 10980xe.

When I swap them out I'll check for mating surface matching, and if it looks poor I may just order an ultra-flat Signature V2 block and lap the IHS since the chip overall seems strong and a better-binned sample. I can then swap the existing normal Sig V2 to my 9900k direct die rig to compare versus its HK block.


----------



## JustinThyme

broodro0ster said:


> And how much lower were the temps on the Optimus vs the HK without springs?
> I'm sorry if the answer was posted in this thread, but I could only find you results with the Optimus block and not a comparision.


I cant speak for thrash but what I can tell you is initial install with the springs is all but impossible on a board that is vertical and mounted in the case. I tried it a few different ways. In the end I found mounting without the springs was easier as you can get it on and all the way down then if you want to use the springs change them one at a time after you have the block mounted. The studs is what dictates just how far the block will go down. Personally I had always preferred the springs as good spring tension over a this is it and there is no changing it mount works better for me, especially when working with delidded chips where the height of the IHS has been altered. 

I tired it with and without the spings using the optimus kit doing it as in mount without first and found zero change. Last time I pulled it off and repasted with MX-4 I just left the springs off as I found no advantage as they bottom out anyhow. With other mounts, the springs are what holds the tension. Thats how it worked with the HK IV pro. Nothing bottomed out, it was on the springs.


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Been running my Signature V2 since late last year. Very nice. Considering moving the V1 to my new SFF build. 

Anyone else waiting on their 2080Ti block? I preordered mine in December and waiting patiently.


----------



## JustinThyme

Kalm_Traveler said:


> Thanks for the reminder - I just sent my email for the same thing this morning. Hopefully with the springless mount I'll get a bit better temps on this 10980xe.
> 
> When I swap them out I'll check for mating surface matching, and if it looks poor I may just order an ultra-flat Signature V2 block and lap the IHS since the chip overall seems strong and a better-binned sample. I can then swap the existing normal Sig V2 to my 9900k direct die rig to compare versus its HK block.


Post pics of what you get, my springless mount was just not using the springs in the kit and putting nuts on without them


----------



## KCDC

Mine just came in this morning with the springless mount. Loving the look and weight of it. So many fins! I haven't had many blocks in my short watercooling career, so this is definitely the best I've ever owned. Only thing I didn't account for is flow direction, so I either have to install it with the logo upside down or reverse my loop's flow unless I can figure out a solution with the block rotated sideways. Either way, should be a fun weekend.


----------



## Shawnb99

KCDC said:


> Mine just came in this morning with the springless mount. Loving the look and weight of it. So many fins! I haven't had many blocks in my short watercooling career, so this is definitely the best I've ever owned. Only thing I didn't account for is flow direction, so I either have to install it with the logo upside down or reverse my loop's flow unless I can figure out a solution with the block rotated sideways. Either way, should be a fun weekend.


I had to install mine with the logo upside down but since my MB was already upside down the logo ended right side up.


----------



## KCDC

Shawnb99 said:


> I had to install mine with the logo upside down but since my MB was already upside down the logo ended right side up.


Yeah, the more I look at my rig and the block, I don't see a pleasing way to do it sideways and I'm not sure how my system will run if I just swap my main in and outs on the pump (can gpu blocks flow backwards without affecting performance?), so I think safe bet will be just to deal with an upside down logo until I do a reconfig. I'll see how ambitious I get on Saturday. More excited to see what improvements I get while rendering or caching sims, if any. Been having the tinker bug lately, this was a cheaper solution to swapping gpu blocks.


----------



## Bart

Mine arrived today, with the springless mount. Woohoo!


----------



## jsprachyl

Voodoo Rufus said:


> Been running my Signature V2 since late last year. Very nice. Considering moving the V1 to my new SFF build.
> 
> Anyone else waiting on their 2080Ti block? I preordered mine in December and waiting patiently.


Also ordered mine mid-december.. Just hoping we get them before the 30xx ti drops. 

Collecting dust:


----------



## TheFrknPope

Clean build bro. Can we get a pic of the new mounting system by any chance?


----------



## JustinThyme

KCDC said:


> Mine just came in this morning with the springless mount. Loving the look and weight of it. So many fins! I haven't had many blocks in my short watercooling career, so this is definitely the best I've ever owned. Only thing I didn't account for is flow direction, so I either have to install it with the logo upside down or reverse my loop's flow unless I can figure out a solution with the block rotated sideways. Either way, should be a fun weekend.


Yeah that was my dilemma, Seeing how I cant take an upside down logo I re piped my loop and will probably re pipe it once more. Changing top rad from 480 EK PE to HW Labs 420 SR2 and also changing top fans to the Noctua industrial model 140mm 2000 RPM PWM fans. Was gonna put an alpha cool 480 cross flow up there but it takes up every mm of space leaving zero room to pipe it up. Think Im also gonna redo the flow. Instead of going into distro then to block Im going straight out of the pump into the block then use distro for VRM cooler and GPUs. May even just can the Distro. Ill see when new Rad gets here. Im still wondering if there is a springless mount that is better on the signature than simply leaving springs out.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

KCDC said:


> Shawnb99 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had to install mine with the logo upside down but since my MB was already upside down the logo ended right side up.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, the more I look at my rig and the block, I don't see a pleasing way to do it sideways and I'm not sure how my system will run if I just swap my main in and outs on the pump (can gpu blocks flow backwards without affecting performance?), so I think safe bet will be just to deal with an upside down logo until I do a reconfig. I'll see how ambitious I get on Saturday. More excited to see what improvements I get while rendering or caching sims, if any. Been having the tinker bug lately, this was a cheaper solution to swapping gpu blocks.
Click to expand...

 you know you can unscrew the block apart and rotate the top right?

Or you have the loop from gpus to cpu ? I have them like that xD


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> you know you can unscrew the block apart and rotate the top right?
> 
> Or you have the loop from gpus to cpu ? I have them like that xD


Hi,
Not a signature only a foundation is 3 parts
Signature is 2 parts mounts are part of the top.


----------



## skupples

Voodoo Rufus said:


> Been running my Signature V2 since late last year. Very nice. Considering moving the V1 to my new SFF build.
> 
> Anyone else waiting on their 2080Ti block? I preordered mine in December and waiting patiently.


waiting - 

they pushed it back another month, due to churning out a new backplate that'll be included with pre-orders. hoping to hear an update next week.


----------



## JustinThyme

KCDC said:


> Yeah, the more I look at my rig and the block, I don't see a pleasing way to do it sideways and I'm not sure how my system will run if I just swap my main in and outs on the pump (can gpu blocks flow backwards without affecting performance?), so I think safe bet will be just to deal with an upside down logo until I do a reconfig. I'll see how ambitious I get on Saturday. More excited to see what improvements I get while rendering or caching sims, if any. Been having the tinker bug lately, this was a cheaper solution to swapping gpu blocks.


Anything flowing in a direction other than designed will take a performance hit. Its dependent on whether you do this for show or performance. For me every degree counts. CPU, Never go backwards.....at least on any block worth having. The jet plate and channels have a specific flow rate. 

As for GPUs, EKWB, if you are one still running blocks for an EK badge (Ive dumped them and moved on), Says you can run their GPU blocks reverse flow with minimal temp difference. I asked this of them on a social media group and had to prod to get an answer as to exactly what is minimal. Best answer I got was 3-5C drop in performance. Well in my book thats not minimal. 2C is not minimal. 

While its nice to have easier loops to run and make them pretty my primary goal is the best performance. 3C higher temps on my GPUS drops my OC potential. 5C destroys the potential. Im floating right below the window where thermal throttling begins. HK blocks running in correct direction keeps me under 45C heavily loaded on both GPUs. Reverse the flow, had to try it for giggles, and on the HK blocks and that 42-44C top end goes to 48-50.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah thats what I said a few posts back, *2-3 C tops and anyone saying 5-8 is slinging bull sheet. *For all you know your 3 C could have just been a remount and some new paste LOL. Im not saying that the block is junk, just the hype and mounting are. They got a pretty good start but need to get with the program with the feedback they are getting here and implementing the changes and not dump excuses.


Hi,
Just picked up a signature this morning and about to drop it in hopefully i can get some crow for you to eat for saying that 
I'm hopping for at least 5c+ better than HK 4 pro 

Disassembled sig as I always do before installing new blocks yeah that's an ek policy and watercool too the heatkiller had more copper or brass burs than any block I've ever seen.
Looked okay no barbs.. or nothing, little dirty is all it is coming from the windy city 

Center o-ring causes the bow on the cold plate, unmounted cold plate is flat for sure not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing yet
Seems the cooling fins would eventually cut into the o-ring and restrict water flow having to go under the o-ring and all :/

Either way later tonight or early tomorrow I'll know something about differences between the foundation 3c better than HK 4 pro now and what the signature temps do along side those results.


----------



## KCDC

JustinThyme said:


> Anything flowing in a direction other than designed will take a performance hit. Its dependent on whether you do this for show or performance. For me every degree counts. CPU, Never go backwards.....at least on any block worth having. The jet plate and channels have a specific flow rate.
> 
> As for GPUs, EKWB, if you are one still running blocks for an EK badge (Ive dumped them and moved on), Says you can run their GPU blocks reverse flow with minimal temp difference. I asked this of them on a social media group and had to prod to get an answer as to exactly what is minimal. Best answer I got was 3-5C drop in performance. Well in my book thats not minimal. 2C is not minimal.
> 
> While its nice to have easier loops to run and make them pretty my primary goal is the best performance. 3C higher temps on my GPUS drops my OC potential. 5C destroys the potential. Im floating right below the window where thermal throttling begins. HK blocks running in correct direction keeps me under 45C heavily loaded on both GPUs. Reverse the flow, had to try it for giggles, and on the HK blocks and that 42-44C top end goes to 48-50.


Not sure who makes the blocks on these Aorus waterforce cards, it's what they came with. Was tempted to swap them for something different, but not sure if it's worth the cash for possible better or worse performance. I won't be running anything backwards as the last thing I want to see is any sort of higher temps due to it.. I couldn't help but ask. After my last ek monoblock, I doubt I will go back to them. Their allen bolts' heads stripped from a basic hand tool the last time I tried to take it apart for maintenance. If I can't figure a way to do it tonight or tomorrow, I'll just install it upside down and ignore the logo for now. The creative side in me always wants to try different new things with this build hobby, so I may consider the distro plates Singularity is making for the Enthoo Elite but still not sure if thats my thing. They sent me the current design for a horizontal and vertical, but looking at the cad render I can't see a way to make it all work with what I have. It would allow me to install the block sideways, though and run lines to the right instead of above. The other side of me just wants to install it, keep it simple and see what gains I get.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Goofy mount I'd place the cpu on the block first 
My 9940x didn't mate well at all goofy as in logo sideways 
So either upside down or right side up absolutely is a better mate not perfect mate but a lot better than goofy.

Jp started out goofy mount 
His 380i he thought was doing well 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-19.html#post28262876
Started out with a foundation goofy read along on results 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-25.html#post28271598


----------



## whk0

KCDC said:


> I won't be running anything backwards as the last thing I want to see is any sort of higher temps due to it.


One of your GPU block is backward flowed. If you talking about Bartha5.5 in your sig.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Saw someone do it the way I would if I were interested in sli 
Add two Y splitters on the inlet and outlets and four 90 degree fittings on the gpu then both cards get the same in and out flow
Second card only gets used 50% though so backwards on it doesn't really matter.


----------



## KCDC

whk0 said:


> One of your GPU block is backward flowed. If you talking about Bartha5.5 in your sig.


Good point, I am moving them to parallel this weekend


----------



## KCDC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Saw someone do it the way I would if I were interested in sli
> Add two Y splitters on the inlet and outlets and four 90 degree fittings on the gpu then both cards get the same in and out flow
> Second card only gets used 50% though so backwards on it doesn't really matter.



Both cards are used 100% each in my case for GPU rendering, using NVLink memory pooling for vdb and geometry. getting them both cooled equally is most beneficial for me. Going too OT, my fault.


----------



## KCDC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Goofy mount I'd place the cpu on the block first
> My 9940x didn't mate well at all goofy as in logo sideways
> So either upside down or right side up absolutely is a better mate not perfect mate but a lot better than goofy.
> 
> Jp started out goofy mount
> His 380i he thought was doing well
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-19.html#post28262876
> Started out with a foundation goofy read along on results
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-25.html#post28271598





Thanks, so upside down it is, I'll get over the OCD.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Just picked up a signature this morning and about to drop it in hopefully i can get some crow for you to eat for saying that
> I'm hopping for at least 5c+ better than HK 4 pro
> 
> Disassembled sig as I always do before installing new blocks yeah that's an ek policy and watercool too the heatkiller had more copper or brass burs than any block I've ever seen.
> Looked okay no barbs.. or nothing, little dirty is all it is coming from the windy city
> 
> Center o-ring causes the bow on the cold plate, unmounted cold plate is flat for sure not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing yet
> Seems the cooling fins would eventually cut into the o-ring and restrict water flow having to go under the o-ring and all :/
> 
> Either way later tonight or early tomorrow I'll know something about differences between the foundation 3c better than HK 4 pro now and what the signature temps do along side those results.


\

If you can serve up some crow, Ill eat it, puke it back up then put it in the box that I send back to Optimus along with the block. Ive been in contact with them VIA PM, they are being extremely accommodating. . I'm seeing improvements over the HKIV but 2-3C end of story. I take anything I can get but its not 5-8. Im thinking that single post that someone said 5-8 had a bad mount before or was using a cheap block. 

Their biggest concern was the flakes I pulled from my filter, I may have gotten one that slipped past QC. That one thing did level out my spread a bit and if I take the two coolest cores out of the equation the other 12 are less than 5C apart. 

Realbench Xbot version stress test 15 mins. puts me at an 11C spread. Blender is quite a bit more spread. Ill run a quick one and post it up.


----------



## JustinThyme

Heres the blender short with a 14C spread with an AVX offset of 2. 
I dont undertand how this works the cores as I watch the Frequency dropping on some cores but not others and it moves around, never more than 4 cores running at 4600. Dont pay atttention to the score, had everything up and running including this web page, this was about heat. I have a new rad HL labs SR 420 be here Sunday replacing top fans with 2000 rpm noctua AF14 PWM fans

Im going to take a differnet approach and dump the output of the pump right into the inlet of the CPU block then out to 420 and down to Distro for VRM cooler and GPUs which BTW saw a 3-4C drop going to HK over the phanteks blocks just due to the passive cooling on the back plate. I am getting better results though after cleaning the metal bits out of my filter. Max flow had dropped to 5L/Min and now max is almost 12L/M but dialing it back on the D5s staggered so abouut 10.5L/M or 620L/Hr.

This is also after chjanging TIM from Kryonaut to MX-4. The kryonaught had a perfect spread so dont know whats up with that, too many changing variables at once I suppose. Running hardline Its not easy to disconnect and just put in a new block.


----------



## JustinThyme

ADIA 64 stress test for 43 mins, much more forgiving. All cores loaded to 100% no AVX workloads. 9C spread and a lot cooler.


----------



## iamjanco

@JustinThyme , @ThrashZone

subbed. Just picked up a 10940x, looking forward to *both* of your final opinions.


----------



## JustinThyme

iamjanco said:


> @JustinThyme , @ThrashZone
> 
> subbed. Just picked up a 10940x, looking forward to *both* of your final opinions.


It’s a good block, don’t mind the critical views I post up, I’m an electronics engineer working in critical power. We look for faults and ways to improve. I’m not into blowing sunshine and rainbows. 

What I will say at this point is out of what’s available performance wise it’s one of the better if not best block speaking for the signature V2 only as that’s the only one I’ve been exposed to. 

My criticism has thus far only applied to claims of 5-8 C lower temps with all else being the same. I’ve not expected that nor seen it but have seen 2-3 and a more even spread across the cores depending on what bench is being run. Blender is the only thing that throws it out with more than 10C spread. Even the PC heater app aka P95 while making it hot as hell keeps them equally hot as hell. 

IMO the design of the cold plate is a fresh and good sense approach. A little innovation and change that the industry hasn’t seen in awhile. 

This may spark others to wake up the guys sleeping in their R&D depts and get busy as they have become complacent. When the new kid in town comes out topping their performance whether it be 2-3 or 5-8 it’s bound to have an impact. 

Curious to see what the GPU blocks will do when they roll out. I’ll never get to experience that as the ASUS Strix cards seem to always be close to last on the drawing boards. 

Both EK and HK were way late to the party for Strix 2080Ti with some BS about the back plates which I didn’t get. They have a hole for the button to kill the LEDs. Like that’s a monumental task to drill an extra hole? 

The blocks didn’t come out until 6 months after the product was launched when I know for fact they had the layout specs before launch. Even TT had a block for it before they did as well as pretty much everyone else, even Bykski. 

I’m going to be doing one final change to see if it makes any difference and it probably will. Dumping directly to the block from the pumps with 10L/M after it’s passed though a 480x60 rad and a 360x30 rad before the pumps. Then up to a 420 before coming back out to VRM cooler and GPU blocks. 

Either that or I’ll hit the VRM and GPU first then up through the 420 then back down to CPU. I’ll figure that out once I’ve replaced the top rad. Should have the final results of that by mid week. 

Regardless it’s outperformed all else, only question is exactly by how much and mounting seems to be finicky.


----------



## JustinThyme

KCDC said:


> Not sure who makes the blocks on these Aorus waterforce cards, it's what they came with. Was tempted to swap them for something different, but not sure if it's worth the cash for possible better or worse performance. I won't be running anything backwards as the last thing I want to see is any sort of higher temps due to it.. I couldn't help but ask. After my last ek monoblock, I doubt I will go back to them. Their allen bolts' heads stripped from a basic hand tool the last time I tried to take it apart for maintenance. If I can't figure a way to do it tonight or tomorrow, I'll just install it upside down and ignore the logo for now. The creative side in me always wants to try different new things with this build hobby, so I may consider the distro plates Singularity is making for the Enthoo Elite but still not sure if thats my thing. They sent me the current design for a horizontal and vertical, but looking at the cad render I can't see a way to make it all work with what I have. It would allow me to install the block sideways, though and run lines to the right instead of above. The other side of me just wants to install it, keep it simple and see what gains I get.


Most of the time EK gets those contracts although I can’t say for sure. I’ve not been a fan of manufacturer installed blocks since the 8800GTS that was as an EK block. Just have to watch out for warranty issues. ASUS changed theirs so removal of the stock sink doesn’t void it although they still leave the catch phrase that any damage caused by modifications deemed to be caused by user or unauthorized service center are not covered. This only applies to the US market afaik.


----------



## JustinThyme

Hey! Low of -10C here tonight. If I pull a Jayz2Cents and rig a fan from the window to the back of my case guarantee you I can beat the HK by 20C or better and get a good run at 5GHz or better! Wife will be pi$$ed as the office area, which was meant to be a sitting area off the master bedroom, will make the bedroom cold as witches boobs in a cast iron bra. I can just crack the window open and my coolant temp will drop 10C easy, adding fan will drop it to near near 0C. 

Nah, not worth chapping the wifey on Valentines day.


----------



## ThrashZone

iamjanco said:


> @JustinThyme , @ThrashZone
> 
> subbed. Just picked up a 10940x, looking forward to *both* of your final opinions.


Hi,
All these test were with the foundation 
It's a great block no problems at all except not using goofy mount as I've always been accustomed to using for heatkiller 4 pro and ek evo in the past 
Foundation is a no brainier winner 60.us cheaper you'd never know why it's cheaper it performs so well at high clocks too 

HK 4 pro verses opimus foundation copper plexi
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-59.html#post28261118
45-48 clocks
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-142.html#post28314644

Just started messing with a signature copper cold plate 
Got to warm up the room a little more ambient is off only 74f degrees instead of 78f degrees as other tests were at.
Core temp spread is looking okay 10c so far and adding the extra ambient looking the same as foundation so far.


----------



## iamjanco

@JustinThyme , @ThrashZone , thanks, both of you. 

Going to wait on TZ's results for the Signature block, then make my decision. 

JT, understood about what you found in the filter and why you might not happy about it. Could be a fluke, but probably shouldn't have happened. Not sure about how I feel about no springs at the moment, but that'll get taken into consideration as I do my own further research. 

FWIW, the block on my benched motherboard will be hooked up using Tygon 1/2 x 3/4, while the motherboard in my SMA8 will be connected using hardline. I've got an ample supply of Tygon on hand; as well as Bitspower 12/16 acrylic, and 16mm and 14mm brass tubing. Main cooling for both the bench and the SMA8 includes 2x MORA 420 (dual loops), 4x Watercool Vario D5s, and 2x Heatkiller 200mm reservoirs. Supplemental cooling for (e.g.) VRMs and Intel 900Ps will be added as well, as required.

@Optimus WC are all of your x299 CPU blocks available at the moment? If not, for those that aren't, do you expect lengthy waits? Please PM me if you'd rather post that privately.


----------



## ThrashZone

iamjanco said:


> @JustinThyme , @ThrashZone , thanks, both of you.
> 
> Going to wait on TZ's results for the Signature block, then make my decision.
> 
> JT, understood about what you found in the filter and why you might not happy about it. Could be a fluke, but probably shouldn't have happened. Not sure about how I feel about no springs at the moment, but that'll get taken into consideration as I do my own further research.
> 
> FWIW, the block on my benched motherboard will be hooked up using Tygon 1/2 x 3/4, while the motherboard in my SMA8 will be connected using hardline. I've got an ample supply of Tygon on hand; as well as Bitspower 12/16 acrylic, and 16mm and 14mm brass tubing. Main cooling for both the bench and the SMA8 includes 2x MORA 420 (dual loops), 4x Watercool Vario D5s, and 2x Heatkiller 200mm reservoirs. Supplemental cooling for (e.g.) VRMs and Intel 900Ps will be added as well, as required.
> 
> @Optimus WC are all of your x299 CPU blocks available at the moment? If not, for those that aren't, do you expect lengthy waits? Please PM me if you'd rather post that privately.


Hi,
Results are a fail on the signature 
went straight to 4.8 and ambient is at least 2f degrees cooler hit 94c with only a couple cores cooler making temp spread 13c
So clearly signature has some contact issues that the foundation doesn't

I'm going to trim the center o-ring a bit and see if I can get the cold plate to flex a little more so it can conform to the chip better.
When I set the chip on top of the block the center of the chip was touching the block but the sides weren't pretty much believe this is the problem since we've been told the signature has no flex and obviously it needs a little to touch the outside of the chip more without over tightening and risking bent or squished socket pins.

Edit 
I did trim off some of the o-ring on each side leaving about 3/8" in the middle untouched and just trimmed it flush from there 
Leak testing should be back on in a few hours from 3pm


----------



## iamjanco

Thanks for the update, TZ :thumb: Interested in seeing if you can workaround the problem.


----------



## ThrashZone

iamjanco said:


> Thanks for the update, TZ :thumb: Interested in seeing if you can workaround the the problem.


Hi,
Just fired up blender long test a few minutes ago will know some thing in 30 minutes if shaving the o-ring does anything positive.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nope didn't do anything positive 
Foundation is going back for sanity sake's see if it acts like it has before all this.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nope didn't do anything positive
> Foundation is going back for sanity sake's see if it acts like it has before all this.


I think a lot of it has to do with giving it some time. Thats what I found anyhow. The cold plates are supposed to be identical, just no flex in the signature. Once you get the mounts right which took me some trial an error. I did find improvement after a few heat up and cool down cycles. Ive not seen temps anywhere near as high as what you have. So far Ive found the best thing for mounting is running the posts in nice and tight, put a tool on those with some blue loctite so they stay put then a liberal amount of good TIM in an X pattern then putting the blcok on and running the thumb nuts in until they were snug, backing of a little so the block was barely loose and wiggling it around a little within the constraints of the mount then cranking the nuts home with all I could give without using a tool. 

My first runs weren't good in any of my attempts. Took a few warm up and cool down cycles, normal use until the next day then saw much better results. Id crap myself over 90C and pitch that thing back in the box faster than it came out or at least pull it and check my TIM spread. I seem to be getting better results a few days later. Hottest core at 84C on blender and cinebench only everything else never passes 80C. If I throw out cores 0 and 1 which are always much cooler Id have a very tight spread of 6C.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Results are a fail on the signature
> went straight to 4.8 and ambient is at least 2f degrees cooler hit 94c with only a couple cores cooler making temp spread 13c
> So clearly signature has some contact issues that the foundation doesn't
> 
> I'm going to trim the center o-ring a bit and see if I can get the cold plate to flex a little more so it can conform to the chip better.
> When I set the chip on top of the block the center of the chip was touching the block but the sides weren't pretty much believe this is the problem since we've been told the signature has no flex and obviously it needs a little to touch the outside of the chip more without over tightening and risking bent or squished socket pins.
> 
> Edit
> I did trim off some of the o-ring on each side leaving about 3/8" in the middle untouched and just trimmed it flush from there
> Leak testing should be back on in a few hours from 3pm


Served up!!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
We grill everything down here 

Frankly the o-ring inside is totally different on the signature and it's the only item that does compress 
I believe it actually cuts off flow 

Doesn't make a lot of sense having a narrow o-ring around the jet area like it does verses the way the foundations o-ring is, it's much larger area not narrow.
Anyway I shifted the cut area to the middle and the round on the ends see what that does instead the round parts of the o-ring in the middle where i think it's cutting off flow being tightened.


----------



## JustinThyme

Never took mine apart. Left it as it came out of the box
Anyhow cracked window open, right at 0C outside. Knocked down case ambient about 3C so loop down a little with it. Cranked all fans to max and shut down unnecessary services and this is what I got with the blender short run. About the best Ive had so far. I try to ignore the cool cores in the spread as ironically unloaded they are the hottest...go figure...One last thing to do is the change up Ive already mentioned 420 Rad is in Va ATM on the way. The only thing bad about PPCs. They have a lot of hard to find items but ship time sucks. This was not the free method either. Extra $15 for Fedex ground that generally takes 3-4 days from Fla. Their free is USPS parcel post and you are guaranteed to be waiting at least a week. Ive had it take two weeks so I just pony up to something that has a tracking number. I only buy from them what I cant get from Amazon, HW labs has very few listing on Amazon. Ton of EKWB and Alphacool but slim pickings on everything else.

Something else noteworthy, Im running the Pro-Xe Nickel not the raw copper version.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Well you can see how much larger the foundations center o-ring is on this image

The hot cores are the problem for me so I can't ignore them as you on the coldest


----------



## JustinThyme

Yeah I’d be crapping bullets on temps past 90. I start getting anxious on anything around 85C but know that synthetic benchmarks are just not now nor will they ever equate to real world. 

The bench I trust the most is realbemch. Elmor, Der8auer, Smoke and that crew created it to replicate real world workloads. Image processing followed by handbrake encoding and luxmark ending with a combined multitasking that slams every thing at it. That one pings my hardware hard to 100% but fair, not just trying to make it hot. 

I’m wondering what the differences are between yours and mine. I do a normal mount inlet toward backplane. You have an Apex and I’m running the original RVIE with active VRM cooling. I’m running all cores 4.8 @ 1.20 Vcore which is backed off a little from the 1.225 I was running as I found I can be stable there. You have the raw copper which is supposed to do better and I have the nickel. 

Only time I saw 90 and above was very briefly when I ran mine up to 5.0 GHz and topped out at 95C which is just a bit too warm for me even though it’s less that the CPU spec on tdp. 

Haven’t ran that since I posted it up on the 5GHz club and it was not HWbot rules where you get one core up there, turn half of them off and run the rest locked at minimum. Like 32X. It’s was 14 cores all at 5GHz. 

If I had an open bed and flex tubing I’d ask for a sample to see if I got anything different. Dropping down to their economy offer that’s still not exactly cheap. I know Im pretty much done with this one expect the changes I mentioned that I’m not pulling the block for. 

You are running exactly what I am otherwise thought as far as chips? 9940X intact? Did you hit up Optimus yet? Hell I though you were on their marketing payroll! ???? I’m sure they will be checking in here and contacting you to see wut da fut is going on as that one even blindsided me. Thought I was gonna have to grill up that possum I caught last week because the crows are on to me and don’t come near this county anymore.


----------



## skupples

they're too small to have paid shills just yet


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Only differences is I'm on 1.25v/ 30 cache/ 4k memory/ 1.85 vccin I believe and llc5/ few other tweaks +200% cpu ...

I just don't know why they would change the water jet area so much I suppose they have their reasons not sure how many cores are in that thin area :/


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> they're too small to have paid shills just yet


Hi,
lol yeah photo shop time Justin would be grilling that crow by now


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Foundation not as good as it was but still better than signature 10c core temp spread :/
Signature up front foundation temps behind.


----------



## iamjanco

Thanks again for the results, TZ :thumb: Gonna wait and see how Optimus responds to them now.


----------



## ThrashZone

iamjanco said:


> Thanks again for the results, TZ :thumb: Gonna wait and see how Optimus responds to them now.


Hi,
Re testing my 4.5 I used to compare the foundation with the heatkiller 4 pro
See where this mount is at exactly
Just started so at 4.5 it takes 32 minutes.


----------



## JustinThyme

You should be able to 4.8 We have the same chip. My VCCIN is at 1.9 cache at 30 and adaptive Vcore to 1.220. LLC at 5. Il run the full blender in the morning. I still think it takes a few heat up and cool down cycles to get a solid comparison. My first run and first mount was terrible. I didnt hit 90 but two cores were going to 88 which I didnt like at all. Then pulled it and remounted it with MX-4. Seems to be getting just a little better every day. Now a hot core is 86 but averaging closer to 80. Still not eating crow yet. If you get to that point you'll have to make me some crow jerky as they stay out of this county. Freaking Canadian geese, now that's a different story. Got them suckers everywhere by the thousands, endangered my a$$!!! Some places get tired of goose crap everywhere and several guys with dogs make a full time job and good living getting hired to just show up with the dog, chase off the geese and go to the next client. Thats all they do all day long riding place to place letting dog chase them off. Make big bucks at it too!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
yeah 4.5 is pretty much the same core spread 9c 77c and 86c and there was only one c
Closest one lower is 84c instead of 8c from this image with 77c and 85c but it had 5 cores at 85c

Some cores 1c cooler and couple 1c hotter 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=315328&d=1577898352

On top 1st. foundation install against the HK 4 pro and green square current installed foundation.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> yeah 4.5 is pretty much the same core spread 9c 77c and 86c and there was only one c
> Closest one lower is 84c instead of 8c from this image with 77c and 85c but it had 5 cores at 85c
> 
> Some cores 1c cooler and couple 1c hotter
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=315328&d=1577898352
> 
> On top 1st. foundation install against the HK 4 pro and green square current installed foundation.



Ill have to drop mine down to 4.5 and see what I get. Im doing just as well as you are now at 4.8.


----------



## JustinThyme

Gotta be something else in your loop, Heres my quick run at 4.5 with adaptive Vcore dropped to 1.10. Temps down 10C with a 10C spread. unopttimized with everything running in the background too. My highest is lower than your coolest.


Edit, ran again @ 4.5 with no AVX offest and dropped voltatge to 1.10 and optimized killing background apps. a little warmer but still a lot better than what you are getting.

You might want to check your loop with all the changes and make sure you arent gooped up somewhere. Dont know if you have a flowmeter or not. This is mine with pumpc craking 10L per minute but CPU is in parallel with GPUs which Im changing tomorrow and expect improvements pumping 10L/M though the CPU block. might be my 2X480s and 360 at play too.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I'm not trying to find the lowest voltages needed for a clock 
These are benchmark voltages 
I did lower input from it's normal 1.95v range to 1.85v just for the heck of it to see what it would do.

Our loops aren't really something that can be compared either seeing i'm only using 2-280 GTX rads it would be silly to think I would be anywhere close to your much larger rads 

Think I found the problem, it's likely that darn nickle plating so I busted the face down to brass glory, quickie job mixing metals for the ghetto steam punk thing


----------



## iamjanco

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I'm not trying to find the lowest voltages needed for a clock
> These are benchmark voltages
> I did lower input from it's normal 1.95v range to 1.85v just for the heck of it to see what it would do.
> 
> Our loops aren't really something that can be compared either seeing i'm only using 2-280 GTX rads it would be silly to think I would be anywhere close to your much larger rads
> 
> Think I found the problem, *it's likely that darn nickle plating* so I busted the face down to brass glory, quickie job mixing metals for the ghetto steam punk thing



Interesting. Thickness (tolerances)?


----------



## ThrashZone

iamjanco said:


> Interesting. Thickness (tolerances)?


Hi,
Nickle is pretty tough but not sure i understand the question 
I was just joshing leaning towards looking cool will make a difference 

I did change the o-ring placement a bit putting the cut part in the middle instead of the ends so it won't intrude into the cooling fins so much
Now the little curved ends have the normal round parts.

After all said and done I'll have to order some more o-rings for both blocks :lachen:


----------



## iamjanco

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nickle is pretty tough but not sure i understand the question
> I was just joshing leaning towards looking cool will make a difference
> 
> I did change the o-ring placement a bit putting the cut part in the middle instead of the ends so it won't intrude into the cooling fins so much
> Now the little curved ends have the normal round parts.
> 
> After all said and done I'll have to order some more o-rings for both blocks :lachen:


My bad. When you said you busted the face down to the brass, I misinterpreted that as you removed the nickel from the cold plate. That coupled with springs vs. no springs and/or add some washers or take some out, the first thing that came to mind was the question of whether the cold plate was seating properly on the IHS, die, or whatever.

Keep up the great work


----------



## ThrashZone

iamjanco said:


> My bad. When you said you busted the face down to the brass, I misinterpreted that as you removed the nickel from the cold plate. That coupled with springs vs. no springs and/or add some washers or take some out, the first thing that came to mind was the question of whether the cold plate was seating properly on the IHS, die, or whatever.
> 
> Keep up the great work


Hi,
Yeah I'm am working on the cold plate seating but no it's always been copper not brass 
The signature is two piece system copper or nickle cold plate and a brass top with nickle plating on all of it.

The narrow center o-ring seem to me to be what controls how the cold plate seating will be so that I'm playing with now.
Leak testing should be done in a few hours and I'll see how the signature reacts to the o-ring changes.
1st Default o-ring = not great.
2nd O-ring with 3/8" space on the center normal and trimmed flush to each end = not great still
3rd yet to be seen ?


----------



## TheFrknPope

So I’ve skipped around on this thread but maybe I’m blind. Has anyone tested the signature on anything other than one of the baddest chips on the consumer market lol? I ordered a signature for my 8700k. And yes I know the testing done with the big boy 10980 is relevant to my question just curious on other chips is all. So far as it’s looking, I’m getting discouraged about my purchase every-time I check this thread out!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
8700 is a small 6 core chip so a signature on it would be pretty silly overkill but what ever you can always use it elsewhere
8700k needs delid.
Foundation would still be overkill on a 8700k and perform as good.


----------



## TheFrknPope

It’s delided and new full copper ihs. Yeah it’s small but I wanted overkill for what it’s going into with not to much rad space. Thanks for the reassurance Thrash. I ordered the ultra flat edition due to lapped ihs.


----------



## skupples

no reason to not overkill on blocks, imo. get the biggest best one you can, every time.


----------



## TheFrknPope

Yeah that was my logic as well.


----------



## ThrashZone

TheFrknPope said:


> It’s delided and new full copper ihs. Yeah it’s small but I wanted overkill for what it’s going into with not to much rad space. Thanks for the reassurance Thrash. I ordered the ultra flat edition due to lapped ihs.


Hi,
Be sure to ask for the springless mounting kit.


----------



## TheFrknPope

Yeah I was all over that as soon as I saw his post. Thanks again!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Anyone interested on the inside designs of each version, signature and foundation here they both are opened up
Signature with the very narrow o-ring verses foundation with the much larger o-ring area

So far foundation gives a much tighter core temperature spread coolest to hottest offset which is usually within 10c
Signature is hit and miss often 11-14c difference mounting quirks very obvious 
Foundation seems a much easier mount for good results.


----------



## TheFrknPope

Thanks for the comparison! Wonder why they decided on a smaller O ring on signature?


----------



## ThrashZone

TheFrknPope said:


> Thanks for the comparison! Wonder why they decided on a smaller jet on signature?


Hi,
Yeah I was also wondering that too 
The sig's is longer the cold plate is the same size so it covers a little more ground but in a very narrow area 
Not sure how many cores are in that tight area but on a 10980xe... probably not many


----------



## TheFrknPope

Also as far the mounting system. Can we get any pics comparing the new system to the old spring version?


----------



## TheFrknPope

Honestly that may be just the case for y’all 10980 owners. The signature was probably not tested in house with a 10980 lol. I can’t blame them either. That’s why you guys are here! I bet they used a 700k or 900k skew for their testing with the sig. who knows but I do know y’all are doing the lords work. Keep at it! Gives me something to read at work lol!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Scroll all the way down this page and it has a diagram of mounting

https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-intel

I'm using the springless mount so no I don't have a spare 

Sig comes with a backplate too which you'd need I wouldn't seeing x299/ x99 have builtin backplates on their sockets.


----------



## TheFrknPope

Ah I see it now. This clears up a lot now without me having one in hand.


----------



## D-EJ915

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Anyone interested on the inside designs of each version, signature and foundation here they both are opened up
> Signature with the very narrow o-ring verses foundation with the much larger o-ring area
> 
> So far foundation gives a much tighter core temperature spread coolest to hottest offset which is usually within 10c
> Signature is hit and miss often 11-14c difference mounting quirks very obvious
> Foundation seems a much easier mount for good results.


Doubt it would make a difference but did you try swapping cold plates?


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

I'm still waiting for the springless mount to show up - they replied to my email Wednesday Feb 12 at 1pm local time saying it would ship out the next day.

Hoping that between this and redoing the Kryonaut that temp spread will be closer than 16 C. If it doesn't look like the coldplate and IHS are making good contact I think ordering the super flat Sig V2 will be in order and i'll just lap the IHS.


----------



## jink

I got my spring-less mount in an envelope a few days after receiving reply. 

I followed diagram on the Foundation block page for my 9900k:

https://i.shgcdn.com/fff1bd85-449c-...t/auto/-/preview/3000x3000/-/quality/lighter/

(Removed previous backplate, used black 'nut' to attach new bolts/screws for block then block and top nuts). I found installation far easier than with the springs.


Attached is a couple temperature spreads (AVX small data set/no-AVX large data set) and OCCT screenshot of temp ramp up with no AVX large data set. I am using KPX paste.


----------



## Optimus WC

Woah, catching up on the posts, lots of stuff going on lol. Will gather some info and report back.


----------



## Optimus WC

@ThrashZone is your CPU lapped? Replaced IHS? Or completely stock 9940x?


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> Woah, catching up on the posts, lots of stuff going on lol. Will gather some info and report back.


You snooze you lose!

OK, still some bubble bleeding down but I had to get in to see where I was at with this. I left my block in place, didnt pull it. Removed distro that was splitting flow to CPU and GPUs as in parallel. I was getting 2L/M more in the config but think that was causing less flow to CPU.

So straight out of pumps to CPU then to VRM up to new HW Labs GTR 420 with Noctua 200RPM industrial PWM version in pull configuration. Out of new rad down into GPU then back over to 480 60mm, up to 360 slim and back to res. Im sure the GTR probably added some restriction to the loop but everything is getting the same flow as its all one into the next, hopefully the drop in flow is just this as I did find a little more black specs in my filter but nothing horrendous. Ill leave it run as is a few days then pull the filter and see whats in it. 

Runs are actually more streamlined, may save distro for another build and ust leave this as is. While my two cool cores are still cool (wish they all stayed there) my hot cores dropped 2C from previous runs. Take out the two low cores that are just unrealistically low compared to the rest and my spread is 5C and hottest core is 83C and leaving the two cold kids out the lowers is 77C. 9940X at 4.8 Vcore 1.220 with avx offest of 2 AVX512 of 4. LLC is at 5 and VCCIN 1.95. Fans never ramped up all the way over several runs. This is the quick Blender with nothing optimized as in a butt load of background apps running which just adds to the heat load. 

There is more to it than the block. Thrash this is killing your runs with the same block although technically you should do better as Im using the nickel plated cold plate and not copper. Ive not seen past 86 in any runs. Im just trying to tweak what I have. GPUs Getting cooler every day I run them. Nice long runs with 3D marks and they never passed 41C. 

While I cant give any comparisons to the foundation I can give comparisons to HCC CPUS which all of the 99XX are the same die size. Overall Im happy but never got that 8C drop maybe 5C in my worst ever run with the HKIV pro but I dont even now if we were apples for apples on that one. I do think my loop dissipation is quite a bit better than what you are running as my coolant never makes it to 32C. If Im idling with fans on whisper mode its about 30C. I crank it and really want to get coldest run it will drop a bit more. This run was with machine set up as it normally is with aquaero using Liquid temp feedback to regulate fan speed. Only thing that is kicking my butt is why Core 0 and core 1 stays so cool as they are the warmest at light loads and idle. Thats gotta be a diode thing going on. 

As for next filter check if there are flecks in it Im going to be hitting up Optimus for a replacement.

@Optimus WC Can you please show the distinction between springless and standard mounts. I'mrunning with out spring on the 2066 but dont know if thats any different as I wasnt expecting them from the initial online drawings. 

Like I said, dont pay attention to scores, everything under the sun running in background, this is about heat.


----------



## Optimus WC

JustinThyme said:


> You snooze you lose!
> 
> OK, still some bubble bleeding down but I had to get in to see where I was at with this. I left my block in place, didnt pull it. Removed distro that was splitting flow to CPU and GPUs as in parallel. I was getting 2L/M more in the config but think that was causing less flow to CPU.
> 
> So straight out of pumps to CPU then to VRM up to new HW Labs GTR 420 with Noctua 200RPM industrial PWM version in pull configuration. Out of new rad down into GPU then back over to 480 60mm, up to 360 slim and back to res. Im sure the GTR probably added some restriction to the loop but everything is getting the same flow as its all one into the next, hopefully the drop in flow is just this as I did find a little more black specs in my filter but nothing horrendous. Ill leave it run as is a few days then pull the filter and see whats in it.
> 
> Runs are actually more streamlined, may save distro for another build and ust leave this as is. While my two cool cores are still cool (wish they all stayed there) my hot cores dropped 2C from previous runs. Take out the two low cores that are just unrealistically low compared to the rest and my spread is 5C and hottest core is 83C. 9940X at 4.8 with avx offest of 2


Haha, seriously no weekends for optimus. 

And I think you're right the parallel loop wasn't giving enough flow to the cpu block. The optimus block has way more surface area and move GPU blocks have like 10 fins. 

As for the black bits, that is strange, sounds like paint or something eventually working its way out of a rad or fitting somewhere.


----------



## Optimus WC

JustinThyme said:


> You snooze you lose!
> 
> @Optimus WC Can you please show the distinction between springless and standard mounts. I'mrunning with out spring on the 2066 but dont know if thats any different as I wasnt expecting them from the initial online drawings.


Gotta say that's a nice looking build there! Dig the coolant  

BELOW: This what you were needing? Black is springless, steel is original spring design (minus the springs, obv).


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> Haha, seriously no weekends for optimus.
> 
> And I think you're right the parallel loop wasn't giving enough flow to the cpu block. The optimus block has way more surface area and move GPU blocks have like 10 fins.
> 
> As for the black bits, that is strange, sounds like paint or something eventually working its way out of a rad or fitting somewhere.


Well until adding the HW labs rad today which I flushed my backwoods way with CocaCola to bubble the goop out the rad that were in there before this run have been in use for better than 2 years. 

Will see how things pan out going forward. For the moment Im happy with what Im geting on a loaded down 14 core CPU OCd to 4.8. The 4.5 run was 4C cooler on hottest core but underclocking isnt what I buy high end parts for. 

Heres an optimized blender short run and a 4.5 run before changes.

If I pull it down again Ill probably put a 480 in the front where the 360 is now, Plenty of room for it.Could run a 560 there if I wanted to but I have a 480x45 rad I pulled out of the top already and all the hardware and fans for it. Darn this hobby get expensive!


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> Gotta say that's a nice looking build there! Dig the coolant
> 
> BELOW: This what you were needing? Black is springless, steel is original spring design (minus the springs, obv).


I wouldnt mind getting the springless for the 2066 for the next time I pull the block off. Im sure Im not done screwing around with it just yet. Ill Pm you my address unless you have it already.


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> Haha, seriously no weekends for optimus.
> 
> And I think you're right the parallel loop wasn't giving enough flow to the cpu block. The optimus block has way more surface area and move GPU blocks have like 10 fins.
> 
> As for the black bits, that is strange, sounds like paint or something eventually working its way out of a rad or fitting somewhere.


I wish I could get away with no weekends! I work every Saturday without fail. May have several down days during the week but Saturday is our busiest day. Critical power in Financial Data centers they dont even let you in the room until trading closes for the week. Windows are generally 5AM Saturday to noon on Sunday if something doesn't go as planned. While it suck sometimes I love my Job. Get to go to different places everyday and do different things. Cant stand the same old song and dance day in day out. I dont see how production line workers do it. That would drive me insane!!!


----------



## JustinThyme

Just for reference this the loop with the distro. Without is cleaner IMO


----------



## zGunBLADEz

TheFrknPope said:


> So I’ve skipped around on this thread but maybe I’m blind. Has anyone tested the signature on anything other than one of the baddest chips on the consumer market lol? I ordered a signature for my 8700k. And yes I know the testing done with the big boy 10980 is relevant to my question just curious on other chips is all. So far as it’s looking, I’m getting discouraged about my purchase every-time I check this thread out!


i put some tests on a 8700k delidded a few pages back
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-154.html#post28321446



@OptimusWC got the new mounts that was fast.. thanks


so i killed my EVGA Micro2 by accident, spilled some droops of coffee ala randy orton with my shoulder putting in the block in top of her.. She was working fine till the first boot started corrupting my bench drive then i found some unseen coffee in one of the ram slots then one of the sticks of ram wasnt popping up on boot or it was having freezes on power on with random boot codes . Then i clean what i can with alcohol but finally ended giving me code FF so it was done and cook for.... i re ordered a second one as i really like this board vs the asrock x299M im using right now.. Lucky didnt took the cpu with her or the ram sticks..


Anyway i dont know about the other users issues and their "core spread problems" but this is my 7980XE on the asrock x299M which im limited to around 400w out of the socket with active cooling on the vrms so it dont throttle it down with svid enable.. only way i can see package power directly in this board as if i disable it only way is with a P3 which counts the power draw from the socket and before psu vrm conversion and that dont help to guesstimate the cooling potential anyway..

So, my cooling is a MoRa3 to not enter on radiator issues with heat soak or "NOT ENOUGH RAD SPACE" whatever you want to call it.... The air entering in from the front is 65F (18C) air getting out after been cooled heat pipes 68F (20C) measured with a ir gun..

Setup as follow, Asrock x299M with nh1 paste on 7980XE @ "static" 1.185mV 45x and -1 avx divider nets me exactly (aroundish 400w) out of the socket on test 5 on the blender benchmark which is the highest power draw of all 6 following by classroom highest power draw im allowed in this board on his current condition and almost to her very limits.. in the micro 2 i actually would be like 50w less on similar settings and the vrms like 50-55c XD

as i never counts the coldest core to make an average spread which in my case is core 0 my core discrepancy is actually under 8C if you want to include the coldest core is 10c 
"this is related to the block mount itself not the cpu as i can switch those temps around moving the cpu block screws"

this is with the old set of screws as im waiting for the new micro2 board so i can remount my block outside the case before hand as its the only way i can squeeze it in on my pc case...


----------



## zGunBLADEz

also have some captures of realbench i managed to take before killing the board

7980XE was @ 49X with adaptive 1.30mV with a negative offset of -0.010mV for 1.290mV and -1 AVX

68-75c core spread 7c if you include the coldest one then 11c


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> @ThrashZone is your CPU lapped? Replaced IHS? Or completely stock 9940x?


Hi,
Stock not going to zap a 3 year Intel warranty by lapping seeing this is my 3rd 9940x

1st died on startup at 4.2 but was a good oc'er core spread within 10c on heatkiller 4 pro
2nd was just defective rma replacement core temp spread was 19c just at 4.5 all core 1.24v even Inel agreed that was not normal.
3rd on now looks as good as the first just waiting for it to die on startup 

Foundation just performs better 
I'm guessing because of the center o-ring design and the signatures is just too narrow.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-169.html#post28331678


----------



## marcelo19941

Anyone here tried both Heatkiller IV Pro and the Optimus block on Ryzen 3000? Im using a 3950x with a hk4 and thinking of changing to optimus


----------



## iamjanco

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Stock not going to zap a 3 year Intel warranty by lapping seeing this is my 3rd 9940x
> 
> 1st died on startup at 4.2 but was a good oc'er core spread within 10c on heatkiller 4 pro
> 2nd was just defective rma replacement core temp spread was 19c just at 4.5 all core 1.24v even Inel agreed that was not normal.
> 3rd on now looks as good as the first just waiting for it to die on startup
> 
> Foundation just performs better
> I'm guessing because of the center o-ring design and the signatures is just too narrow.
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-169.html#post28331678


Thanks, TZ. In your opinion, would you say it might be best holding off on the Signature version of the block for a stock 10940x then, until Optimus has a chance to investigate further?


----------



## ThrashZone

iamjanco said:


> Thanks, TZ. In your opinion, would you say it might be best holding off on the Signature version of the block for a stock 10940x then, until Optimus has a chance to investigate further?


Hi,
Safe bet is the foundation.

Cooling system is main difference so far between users
Most seeing better results have much larger radiators than my little ghetto rig 

Not sure investigating past that would be fruitful beside maybe some more center o-rings for both blocks 
Mounted every which way to Friday and not a lot of note worthy.


----------



## iamjanco

^^^Gotya :thumb:


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Safe bet is the foundation.
> 
> Cooling system is main difference so far between users
> Most seeing better results have much larger radiators than my little ghetto rig
> 
> Not sure investigating past that would be fruitful beside maybe some more center o-rings for both blocks
> Mounted every which way to Friday and not a lot of note worthy.


This is something we are 180 out on. While Ive not tried both there is no arguing that I get great results with the SigV2

Cutting up Orings has made it impossible for them to find out what, if anything, was the problem with your block. Could have been a one time fluke but now the world may never know......lick, lick, lick, CRUNCH......Three.
Mine just keeps getting better and better. We are running the same chip, although mine was the first and last one I bought.
You run an Apex and I run the original extreme at higher clocks yet get better temps at a higher frequency.
I run two GPUs and you run one. So subtract one of my rads to account for that and we are down to pumps and flow rates. 
There are more than just a crow chomper from Texas running these blocks.
Did JP not get excellent results?
You talked me into this and now you are doing the back stroke?

I drop my frequency to match yours and my hot core is like 74C.

Personally I think you need to see whats up with your flow in your loop. Running a single D5, yes I know you have two but they are not in serial, is whats killing you. Throw a flow meter in there and see what you are getting.

I yanked out a distro which dropped my flow rate by 2L/m telling me that the block is highly restrictive. Yet that drop also increased my performance. With 3 D5s Im pumping 500L/hr though or 8.5L/m.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Tic tic goofy mount...... i had to get the 380 out of the pile xD 


Same settings as before same ambients and everything..

Waiting on blender benchmark test to finish

I guess this is a testament of koolance quality remember in the other topic that user complaining about koolance quality @Jpmboy..... XD

that cold core is really chilling at 50c tops with the cpu pulling 400w lol maybe the koolance like the custom ihs cooper better than the stock signature v2 stock plate... Better thermal paste spread? The package is just 1c under hard to call here...


----------



## tistou77

zGunBLADEz said:


> also have some captures of realbench i managed to take before killing the board
> 
> 7980XE was @ 49X with adaptive 1.30mV with a negative offset of -0.010mV for 1.290mV and -1 AVX
> 
> 68-75c core spread 7c if you include the coldest one then 11c


What is the ambient temperature ?

Thanks


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> This is something we are 180 out on. While Ive not tried both there is no arguing that I get great results with the SigV2
> 
> .


Hi,
Just tweaking man relax o-rings are pennies 
Doubt this is the only thing we've not agreed on lol
JP prefers the foundation last I saw via PM on his sig demo he received and he offered it to me for just shipping costs

I did no such thing in recommending you buy a signature dude you're senile I never even had one in the beginning so wake or woke up man you jumped on the sig all on your own and you have a love/ hate drama queen view of it day by day so it's not worth keeping up with anymore :doh:

Thanks for punctuation but work on facts next :thumb:


----------



## zGunBLADEz

hmmmmm





tistou77 said:


> What is the ambient temperature ?
> 
> Thanks


around 63f that day if i remember correctly..

funny thing about this cpus under stress test like rogbench or blender are those high marked temps are not what is the sustained one... they will shoot that high for a brievity but it will settle under like 5-8c

like in test 5 which is the highest power draw of the benchmark


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> Tic tic goofy mount...... i had to get the 380 out of the pile xD
> 
> 
> Same settings as before same ambients and everything..
> 
> Waiting on blender benchmark test to finish
> 
> I guess this is a testament of koolance quality remember in the other topic that user complaining about koolance quality @Jpmboy..... XD
> 
> that cold core is really chilling at 50c tops with the cpu pulling 400w lol maybe the koolance like the custom ihs cooper better than the stock signature v2 stock plate... Better thermal paste spread? The package is just 1c under hard to call here...



What are you getting on ambient without a chiller?


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> hmmmmm


Hi,
You goofy mounted that sig ?
That hasn't ever worked well not even on foundation.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You goofy mounted that sig ?
> That hasn't ever worked well not even on foundation.


i had the block mounted with the signature down i put a picture for that sole reason alone. the koolance is on goofy


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> What are you getting on ambient without a chiller?


im not using a chiller is just pretty cool where im at the air intaking my mora3 is just around 65F


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> i had the block mounted with the signature down i put a picture for that sole reason alone. the koolance is on goofy


Hi,
OKay thanks for clearing that up 
Yeah Jp only eventually saw a tighter core temp spread but he saw that with his foundation too once he got past not mounting the foundation goofy mount like his 380 always was mounted.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Just tweaking man relax o-rings are pennies
> Doubt this is the only thing we've not agreed on lol
> JP prefers the foundation last I saw via PM on his sig demo he received and he offered it to me for just shipping costs
> 
> I did no such thing in recommending you buy a signature dude you're senile I never even had one in the beginning so wake or woke up man you jumped on the sig all on your own and you have a love/ hate drama queen view of it day by day so it's not worth keeping up with anymore :doh:
> 
> Thanks for punctuation but work on facts next :thumb:



Damn, throw that crow on your plate and you resort to name calling? Really? I guess the story about Texas and horns vs no horns is true. Im not now nor have I have I ever played Drama queen, just posting what Im getting and whats changing with what I do. I still don't love it just because the hype that was pushed (which I can C&P all the marketing you posted, thought you were on their payroll) and in the end, I get decent performance but have yet to see the 5-8C that was claimed and told by a certain someone they were gonna make me eat crow. Hows it tasting on your plate by the way? 

I was just posting fact. If there was an issue with your block it cannot be diagnosed now as its been altered. Maybe it was the Oring? too thick? out of the socket? 

What I want to know is why your rig is sucking balwz and mine is rocking when its the same chip and the same block. My bet is still flow rate. If its not that then its inconsistent manufacturing.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> im not using a chiller is just pretty cool where im at the air intaking my mora3 is just around 65F


Thnks,
That makes sense. Probably my next move is getting rads out of case.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> im not using a chiller is just pretty cool where im at the air intaking my mora3 is just around 65F
> 
> 
> 
> Thnks,
> That makes sense. Probably my next move is getting rads out of case.
Click to expand...

Thats what i did with my phobya 1260 i tried to make it the less obnoxious as possible and hang the bastard on the wall in my living room for example... my setup always been HTPC like pc...

My TT VT20 have 3x240s rads with quick disconnects to the outside. My phobya have his own reservoir+d5 pump "ecosystem" as well, i control it by remote if i need the cooling i just turned it on thru a wireless remote lol...
the whole combo function as one... the outside radiator if is not on it will block the loop of the main pc on her own loop with her own d5/reservoir will circulate just inside. If i turn the outside radiator it will work as a whole.. Pressure is a wonderful thing XD


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Damn, throw that crow on your plate and you resort to name calling? Really? I guess the story about Texas and horns vs no horns is true. Im not now nor have I have I ever played Drama queen, just posting what Im getting and whats changing with what I do. *I still don't love it just because the hype that was pushed (which I can C&P all the marketing you posted,* thought you were on their payroll) and in the end, I get decent performance but have yet to see the 5-8C that was claimed and told by a certain someone they were gonna make me eat crow. Hows it tasting on your plate by the way?
> 
> I was just posting fact. If there was an issue with your block it cannot be diagnosed now as its been altered. Maybe it was the Oring? too thick? out of the socket?
> 
> What I want to know is why your rig is sucking balwz and mine is rocking when its the same chip and the same block. My bet is still flow rate. If its not that then its inconsistent manufacturing.


Hi,
Again your facts are crap 
I've never said anything about you or I getting 5-8c cooler ever 

I hoped to get 5-8c better on a sig demo block just to shut you up from crying about the over hype of the optimus blocks in general from *Optimus sources which I never was one 
*
Your alzheimer's is showing big time dude take your meds asap !


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> i had the block mounted with the signature down i put a picture for that sole reason alone. the koolance is on goofy
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> OKay thanks for clearing that up
> Yeah Jp only eventually saw a tighter core temp spread but he saw that with his foundation too once he got past not mounting the foundation goofy mount like his 380 always was mounted.
Click to expand...

I dont know man , im trying goofy now with the new mounts too on the v2 temps looks more promising than before this way to me in my case. I guess user needs to try if he can on various positions. Im wonder if the flat block would give me what i want xD
@OptimusWC i hope you appreciate what im doing here xD....


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> I dont know man , im trying goofy now with the new mounts too on the v2 temps looks more promising than before this way to me in my case. I guess user needs to try if he can on various positions. Im wonder if the flat block would give me what i want xD
> @OptimusWC i hope you appreciate what im doing here xD....


Hi,
Yep I tried goofy first there weren't any gains over heatkiller 4 pro 
Not until I rotated it normal did it do better.


----------



## tistou77

zGunBLADEz said:


> hmmmmm
> around 63f that day if i remember correctly..
> 
> funny thing about this cpus under stress test like rogbench or blender are those high marked temps are not what is the sustained one... they will shoot that high for a brievity but it will settle under like 5-8c
> 
> like in test 5 which is the highest power draw of the benchmark


Ok thanks, not very hot then
I was surprised by your temperatures with the TJmax at 110°C on the 7980XE (I stay with a TJMax of 105°C, the cores heat less )


----------



## happyluckbox

Is there an updated ETA on the threadripper block? Sitting here waiting on the preorder to go through so I can finish my build...


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep I tried goofy first there weren't any gains over heatkiller 4 pro
> Not until I rotated it normal did it do better.



here goofy results closer to the 380


----------



## tistou77

It seems that with a 7980XE, the Goofy is better ?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Looks okay if you ignore the two coldest cores.

Normal mount all cores were within 10c of each other though 57-67c


----------



## zGunBLADEz

it looks good in my end the results between the 380 and the v2 on goofy are almost identical ...

theres one more test i want to try, with the logo upside up.. i will call from now on mounting gains...

my question now is as i manage to run the spread im in the margin of ihs/block contact height is margin of error..

I dont know how flat is the rockit ihs didnt test it.... i have a lapped intel ihs i did myself " very mirror shiny and everything" but i dont want to touch this as im content with the results so far and i glued 2 of the corners with a lil bit of black silicon adhesive...
i know i manage to drop that core14 as my hottest core in a previous lm attempt tho but enough of lm messing around on this cpu lol


----------



## Optimus WC

zGunBLADEz said:


> it looks good in my end the results between the 380 and the v2 on goofy are almost identical ...
> 
> theres one more test i want to try, with the logo upside up.. i will call from now on mounting gains...
> 
> my question now is as i manage to run the spread im in the margin of ihs/block contact height is margin of error..
> 
> I dont know how flat is the rockit ihs didnt test it.... i have a lapped intel ihs i did myself " very mirror shiny and everything" but i dont want to touch this as im content with the results so far and i glued 2 of the corners with a lil bit of black silicon adhesive...
> i know i manage to drop that core14 as my hottest core in a previous lm attempt tho but enough of lm messing around on this cpu lol


Is your CPU IHS the rockit IHS? Or lapped?


----------



## Shawnb99

I'm starting a new thing. I'll be posting here weekly asking about dual pumps until I forget, highly likely or @Optimus WC gets so annoyed with me they make one just to shut me up. 

Where's the dual Pumps?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Optimus WC said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> it looks good in my end the results between the 380 and the v2 on goofy are almost identical ...
> 
> theres one more test i want to try, with the logo upside up.. i will call from now on mounting gains...
> 
> my question now is as i manage to run the spread im in the margin of ihs/block contact height is margin of error..
> 
> I dont know how flat is the rockit ihs didnt test it.... i have a lapped intel ihs i did myself " very mirror shiny and everything" but i dont want to touch this as im content with the results so far and i glued 2 of the corners with a lil bit of black silicon adhesive...
> i know i manage to drop that core14 as my hottest core in a previous lm attempt tho but enough of lm messing around on this cpu lol
> 
> 
> 
> Is your CPU IHS the rockit IHS? Or lapped?
Click to expand...

. Rockit as it is...


Preliminary tests are showing is a ihs/block gains at this point.. The temp spread is more smaller "all together" and consistent not like the ultra cold cores i had before... With the logo upside up.


----------



## Shawnb99

zGunBLADEz said:


> it looks good in my end the results between the 380 and the v2 on goofy are almost identical ...
> 
> theres one more test i want to try, with the logo upside up.. i will call from now on mounting gains...
> 
> my question now is as i manage to run the spread im in the margin of ihs/block contact height is margin of error..
> 
> I dont know how flat is the rockit ihs didnt test it.... i have a lapped intel ihs i did myself " very mirror shiny and everything" but i dont want to touch this as im content with the results so far and i glued 2 of the corners with a lil bit of black silicon adhesive...
> i know i manage to drop that core14 as my hottest core in a previous lm attempt tho but enough of lm messing around on this cpu lol


Rockit's IHS should be closed to lapped as well. 
Under it's description it states "Smooth and flat surfaces for maximum contact with CPU and cooling solutions"


----------



## Optimus WC

Ah, so lapped and Rockit IHS are not good fits with our blocks. Because our blocks have a bow to match the funky Intel and AMD IHS profiles. 

We were offering a lapped/flat IHS model of the Signature that makes better contact. Honestly, the fact that the Sig is performing the same (not worse) than the other block is something  If the correct contact was being made, the Signature would be well beyond that block.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

v2 optimus logo upside up is a lil warmer here too around 68f


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Optimus WC said:


> Ah, so lapped and Rockit IHS are not good fits with our blocks. Because our blocks have a bow to match the funky Intel and AMD IHS profiles.
> 
> We were offering a lapped/flat IHS model of the Signature that makes better contact. Honestly, the fact that the Sig is performing the same (not worse) than the other block is something  If the correct contact was being made, the Signature would be well beyond that block.


well im up for demo after all XD


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Cold plates are flat if disassembled
So only the inside of the actual block is probably different
Center 0-ring puts pressure on the cold plate and makes it bow that I can tell.

I actually put a straight edge inside the block and the center nickle part is as high as the outer o-ring.


----------



## tistou77

I wanted to take a Foundation, but having an IHS Rockit, too bad


----------



## Optimus WC

So the entire jet platform creates the bow in the cold plate. The o-ring isn't nearly strong enough  

We might do a flat version of the Foundation. Not sure, it's definitely confusing people right now. Also, really, bare die is the best performance, not sure having a special rockit/lapped version makes long term sense. But just thinking out loud, seems like more people have the rockit IHS than I would have expected.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Optimus WC said:


> So the entire jet platform creates the bow in the cold plate. The o-ring isn't nearly strong enough /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> We might do a flat version of the Foundation. Not sure, it's definitely confusing people right now. Also, really, bare die is the best performance, not sure having a special rockit/lapped version makes long term sense. But just thinking out loud, seems like more people have the rockit IHS than I would have expected.


Hmm i try bare die with 8700k/7940x and 7980xe... You can see on the pictures even on the 8700k behind you see the mount kit...
I even lapped the damn thing is heavy modified and as flat it can be too so theres no "blockade" so the block can sit as flat as possible.. I ended using the ihs on all 3 as "everytime" which is more consistent every mount. Didnt put results bcuz they werent worth it.


----------



## ThrashZone

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Cold plates are flat if disassembled
> So only the inside of the actual block is probably different
> Center 0-ring puts pressure on the cold plate and makes it bow that I can tell.
> 
> *I actually put a straight edge inside the block and the center nickle part is as high as the outer o-ring*.





Optimus WC said:


> So the entire jet platform creates the bow in the cold plate. The o-ring isn't nearly strong enough
> .


Hi,
Yeah oops the last part was a correction of the first that I just remembered.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Again your facts are crap
> I've never said anything about you or I getting 5-8c cooler ever
> 
> I hoped to get 5-8c better on a sig demo block just to shut you up from crying about the over hype of the optimus blocks in general from *Optimus sources which I never was one
> *
> Your alzheimer's is showing big time dude take your meds asap !


Crow tasting like sheet?

No you didnt say it and I never said you said it, its in the marketing vids that someone else posted, im thinking it was Matt O on PPCs.

Most of that can be seen here.
https://optimuspc.com/pages/reviews

Maybe we should meet up halfway and drink enough liquor to make us both believe they are that good. Old and decrepit but no brain disease other than spending too much money on PC gear! 

Whats your best on the foundation? 
Im just trying to figure out what went wrong for you in the SIG. 

Overall, My impression with the Sig is its a decent block but nothing like whats in the market, my flow actaully dropped but Matt O said his went up. If any of those are lies, I didnt tell them and never accused you of telling them either. Didn't mean for a little banter back and forth to get you all pi$$ed to the point of name calling. We've both been at it so how bout we call it a truce and let it stop here. You post what you get and ill post what I get. 


High of 82 on blender, doesn't matter long or short run, is the about as good as Ive gotten on Sig V2 with ambient of 21-22F. Cinebench comes in 2C cooler on hottest core. Un Optimized as I wanted more heat. Thats all I got for now unless i take my filer out in a few days and find goop in it again. Pretty steady at 8.5L/M or ~510L/Hr


----------



## zGunBLADEz

here is the 7940x bare die few screenshots i have

look how i manage to run that spread around like it was nothing just tightening the screws and un-tightening

the test is an continuous loop non stop so i can concentrate on the screws lol


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> *No you didnt say it and I never said you said it*, its in the marketing vids that someone else posted, im thinking it was Matt O on PPCs.
> .


Hi,
You prove daily how bad your memory is 
It's really sad.
I'll just ignore you for now on.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You prove daily how bad your memory is
> It's really sad.
> I'll just ignore you for now on.


Show me the post then and Ill buy it and publicly apologize, I offered a hand, you pushed away.

I bought what they said was their best, not buying a foundation.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> here is the 7940x bare die few screenshots i have
> 
> look how i manage to run that spread around like it was nothing just tightening the screws and un-tightening
> 
> the test is an continuous loop non stop so i can concentrate on the screws lol


So did you do better tighter or loosen up?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> here is the 7940x bare die few screenshots i have
> 
> look how i manage to run that spread around like it was nothing just tightening the screws and un-tightening
> 
> the test is an continuous loop non stop so i can concentrate on the screws lol
> 
> 
> 
> So did you do better tighter or loosen up?
Click to expand...

The best i manage is the last core been the hottest i gave up on it as always i try to bare die its a mix bag I n my end... I was thinking on lapping the die itself earlier on but i dont see no point on it.. Wathever i be gaining if any would not make a big difference between that and the lm under a lapped ihs to be honest

The good thing about it was it didnt have those big spikes it does with the lm and lapped ihs on then it will settle at a lower temp making your spread worst than what it is when you look at the "max" other than that look at it yourself that core14 tho 😞

Look at the 7980xe with lm and rockit ihs max temps vs current.. The shoot ups it does makes your "spread" worst than what it is...


Did another run with logging for the whole test..
i grab second coldest core (0) medium temp core (9) and hottest core (14) for reference on the "bursts" spikes...

then i grabbed the 400w package part and created her own time line for avg temps without the spikes


----------



## JustinThyme

Nice info. Tried it on one with the lid on it and had pretty much no effect. I think I could have tossed the nuts and it would have kept contact, for the time being anyhow. Was rifling through some screenshots a bit ago and found one of my last HKIV runs. Two cores topping out at 84 but I never messed with it after mounting. May or may not have made a difference but it did have the same type of set up I have now but one less pump. So I’m calling my change 2-3C as my two hot cores go between 81&82 for anything that loads the crap out of it from 84. Unless I can crap a different approach that’s all she wrote. I did note that I had more cores with slightly higher temps but saw the TIM was thinner in the middle when I pulled the block from the “bow”. Same two cores cooler than others. If I still have this rig when the warranty runs out I may go for lapping the IHS and a flat cold plate.


----------



## skupples

huuuuusaaaaaaaaa


----------



## JustinThyme

My Final contribution to this as Im done fiddling. Ive done a million things some showed improvement, others did not. Im not so sure that the same results could be had fiddling with other blocks.

First is HK IV pro run from DEC19. Never did anything to it other than mount it with kryonaut, tigthen down thumbscrew with springs and plumbed it up.

Second is Sig V2 after mounting, with kryonaut, fiddling, pulling, cleaning remounting with MX-4 fiddling, replumbing for optimal flow and exhausted everything I know to get better temps, not that I know much as it should be TIM, mount, forget.

Achieved better results on temps but equaled to zero in improved performance in the end. My recommendations..,,If you have a decent block that is performing well.....stick with it. If you are doing a new build and want to support a new US company then the block is worthy to add to a new rig. 

I dont have any old blender runs.


----------



## ntuason

JustinThyme said:


> My recommendations..,,If you have a decent block that is performing well.....stick with it. If you are doing a new build and want to support a new US company then the block is worthy to add to a new rig.


I guess this made my decision easier to go with HK. I really wanted the Signature V2 but at almost $300CAD after shipping and currency conversion it’s a little much. 

Best looking CPU block for sure though.


----------



## JustinThyme

ntuason said:


> I guess this made my decision easier to go with HK. I really wanted the Signature V2 but at almost $300CAD after shipping and currency conversion it’s a little much.
> 
> Best looking CPU block for sure though.


Yeah the Sig V2 is a nice block, You'll get a few degrees over HK IV Pro and it might be the difference for someone else between 100Hz on an OC, just not me, at least not stable for very long. I think you will get better results on less than HEDT. Their Foundation blocks are nice too and a bit more friendly on the wallet. This is by far the most Ive ever spent on a block. Very nice looking, mirror finish and satin smooth on the cold plate, much more so than the HKIV pro where you can still see machine marks. If I was doing a new build Id go with the Optimus but not worth the upgrade unless you are an idiot like me who spends too darn much money on this hobby if you already have a solid performer. 

Some swear over these for the platforms they fit. 
https://koolance.com/cpu-380i-processor-water-block
https://koolance.com/processor-water-block-intel-cpu-400i

I lost trust with koolance in their early days when Id have fittings that fuzed together but that was a long time ago.

This is my previous and Im holding onto it for another build.
https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...v-pro-intel-processor-copper-ni-wc-18001.html


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> ntuason said:
> 
> 
> 
> I guess this made my decision easier to go with HK. I really wanted the Signature V2 but at almost $300CAD after shipping and currency conversion itâ€™️s a little much.
> 
> Best looking CPU block for sure though.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah the Sig V2 is a nice block, You'll get a few degrees over HK IV Pro and it might be the difference for someone else between 100Hz on an OC, just not me, at least not stable for very long. I think you will get better results on less than HEDT. Their Foundation blocks are nice too and a bit more friendly on the wallet. This is by far the most Ive ever spent on a block. Very nice looking, mirror finish and satin smooth on the cold plate, much more so than the HKIV pro where you can still see machine marks. If I was doing a new build Id go with the Optimus but not worth the upgrade unless you are an idiot like me who spends too darn much money on this hobby if you already have a solid performer.
> 
> Some swear over these for the platforms they fit.
> https://koolance.com/cpu-380i-processor-water-block
> https://koolance.com/processor-water-block-intel-cpu-400i
> 
> I lost trust with koolance in their early days when Id have fittings that fuzed together but that was a long time ago.
> 
> This is my previous and Im holding onto it for another build.
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...v-pro-intel-processor-copper-ni-wc-18001.html
Click to expand...

This forum does have more of your types than others. Enuthiast are enuthiast. My saying is enjoy it while you can as there will be one point in your life where your funds will naturally shift to more important things. 

Most people would have invested into good enough and use that excess hobby money into investments that have an actual rate of return. 

Right now many people i know were shorting shares like alibaba and tencent and now are buying them up since fundamentals show they will rebound sooner than later.


----------



## ThrashZone

ntuason said:


> I guess this made my decision easier to go with HK. I really wanted the Signature V2 but at almost $300CAD after shipping and currency conversion it’s a little much.
> 
> Best looking CPU block for sure though.


Hi,
Side by side of heatkiller and signature 
Heatkiller will be less restrictive seeing all it has showing in this image two horizontal rubber lines to help direct flow both directions on the cooling fins 

Signature having the narrow center o-ring forces water to go under this o-ring and pressurizing that area 
Foundations is much larger and pressurizing a larger area but both are still forcing water to go under the o-rings 

The center part on the signature was nickle too I lapped it down a little to lessen the bow in the block yes because I can is why I did this is what tweaking is all about 

Might also note the metal to metal contact that creates the bow in the cold plate on the signature also looks like it damages the cooling fins the more you tighten it
On the foundation seeing it's center o-ring goes all the way around that area is not damaged


----------



## JustinThyme

I did tell a tiny white lie, more like an omission.
I cant confirm nor deny Optimus had any part in it but I did hit 5.1GHz on the 9940X....because I can and I wasn't losing top spot by 5Hz! Stable? Not really. Booted Ran validation 10 mins of AIDA CPU stress but it would lock up about halfway through second part of blender. 

Yeah different times in our lives we spend money on different thinks. Me its HEDT, Two brats in college, just finishing off a 20 year mortgage on a $750K home, 40ft 5th wheel RV and this thing in the pics

Next Step is to move my a$$ up out of this high freakin tax rate area as we dont need to be living up in an area with top 5% schools rated nationally and pay $14K/year in property taxes to do it. Nor do two people need 3500 sqft of house. Been rehabing rooms one at a time with fresh paint in preparations for putting up a for sale sign. Everything else in it is new or close enough to it. Now to get my wife back south of the Mason Dixon is going to be the challenge but no matter in less than 2 years Im hanging up my work hat, throwing out work boots and picking up a fishing pole and/or rifle, shotgun and pistol. My biggest goal has always been to be retired before 60. If I didnt have kids going to high $$ colleges Id have been done at 55. Not even sure I need a house somewhere else. Hitch up 5th wheel RV and hit the road. Next Phase will be spoiling grand kids, feeding them a 5lb sack of candy right before dropping them off to their parents at 11PM. Payback!!

Considered a boat big enough to live on but already learned my lesson there. Big boat=big hole in water which one steadily pours money into. Maybe a a small bass boat for fishing but thats as far as thats going.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Last I'm doing for a while 
Image
Gray square signature 1st install 
Green foundation sandwiched 
Yellow signature 2nd install flushed center o-ring in middle

Solo done this morning is current foundation install spread okay within 10c 
Ambient is a tad warmer than mid January and even new years when I first started comparing heatkiller and foundation so a little higher core max is probably explained by climate changes

These two images and tests are the same ambient so foundation still doing better
Haven't tested the lapped signature I'll save that for another day I out of thermal past anyway 10g gone


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Last I'm doing for a while
> Image
> Gray square signature 1st install
> Green foundation sandwiched
> Yellow signature 2nd install flushed center o-ring in middle
> 
> Solo done this morning is current foundation install spread okay within 10c
> Ambient is a tad warmer than mid January and even new years when I first started comparing heatkiller and foundation so a little higher core max is probably explained by climate changes
> 
> These two images and tests are the same ambient so foundation still doing better
> Haven't tested the lapped signature I'll save that for another day I out of thermal past anyway 10g gone


Yeah lots of variables now, especially since that Signature block is basically sanded beyond repair 

In our testing, without having a super controlled environment, it is very hard to get consistent results. Like a couple C of ambient will throw everything off. It may seem like the conditions are normal but they aren't 

Couple of points: The signature definitely does not damage the fins, it makes contact across the entire area (same as the foundation). We've tested all this every which way. Especially in a controlled environment. We use a temp room with temperature controlled water regulator to take out any fluid changes and ambient hardware changes. 

As for lapping the signature, def don't try that. You'll break through the fins. There's zero reason to lap it  Or even try to make it flat. We have a version of the signature that's the flat version. So trying to lap the top block and cold plate will only make results super strange


----------



## ntuason

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Side by side of heatkiller and signature..





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Last I'm doing for a while...


Thank you for the detailed comparison, now I'm back to square one and wanting the Signature, the craftsmanship on the Optimus is just beautiful. +Rep.


----------



## TheFrknPope

This man had the balls to start sanding the sig? Damn lol.


----------



## JustinThyme

TheFrknPope said:


> This man had the balls to start sanding the sig? Damn lol.


Im thinking that was a passed along demo.


----------



## skupples

in theory that's bigger balls than sanding your own procured unit.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

zGunBLADEz said:


> v2 optimus logo upside up is a lil warmer here too around 68f


"Shorry" you cant argue against this results you aint getting no better than that on a 400w load without using a chiller under 60f ambients.. This is the best you going to get on a delidded HCC cpu under current conditions on any loop. This is with optimal ambient, enough rad space mora3 and a d5 pump all to the cpu itself... That's a 400w "realistic load" out of the socket mind you... No p95 non sense...


Now my issue is the ihs and block contact itself... Even that i highly doubt a flat block would make any difference if any bare die didnt show much to begin with. Other than better controlling the spikes that makes you spread on number worst "cold vs hottest" which i recommend do not pay attention to them unless you are borderline throttling and even that..

The block still worth every penny tho. This one was made to last and it will handle any cpu without problems.... It will match any build without the need of been too flashy or rgb freak fest with his industrial look.. Its a solid piece no multiple pieces like other blocks my ek evo all nickel says hi.. The only complaints i have its the Phillips screws on the bottom why not allen screws at this price range... At this stage you aint getting no miracle blocks lol. You paying for raw materials and a build tank cpu block that would last you yrs to come..


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

springless mount for my Sig V2 arrived today, going to swap these posts + caps on tonight and see if that helps the 10980xe temp delta at all. Will also be checking mating surfaces. 

Hang tight folks, will report back soon.


----------



## JustinThyme

Kalm_Traveler said:


> springless mount for my Sig V2 arrived today, going to swap these posts + caps on tonight and see if that helps the 10980xe temp delta at all. Will also be checking mating surfaces.
> 
> Hang tight folks, will report back soon.


let me know how it works out, one of the last things im gonna do when i see them in my mailbox.


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> in theory that's bigger balls than sanding your own procured unit.


Don't think they were expecting it back. Ill let Thrash tell the story. 
If they were and it got destroyed then Id have a different description of having bigger balls but Ill keep that one to myself.

Thats the thing about Demos. They offered to send me one but you don't know if its a fresh one or if its made its rounds and someone went to cutting up the oring and sanding down the cold plate. Overall Im happy with mine once I figured out its nuances. I do have an improvement over what I was running before so that's the big picture. 

Another big difference is Im running the nickel plated cold plate. Pure copper is supposed to perform better but over the years Ive just not been happy with the longevity of when its going to go green on the inside and brown on the outside. Just never had luck personally but never had a nickel plated one flake off or corrode, thats just my preference.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> skupples said:
> 
> 
> 
> in theory that's bigger balls than sanding your own procured unit.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't think they were expecting it back. Ill let Thrash tell the story.
> If they were and it got destroyed then Id have a different description of having bigger balls but Ill keep that one to myself.
> 
> Thats the thing about Demos. They offered to send me one but you don't know if its a fresh one or if its made its rounds and someone went to cutting up the oring and sanding down the cold plate. Overall Im happy with mine once I figured out its nuances. I do have an improvement over what I was running before so that's the big picture.
> 
> Another big difference is Im running the nickel plated cold plate. Pure copper is supposed to perform better but over the years Ive just not been happy with the longevity of when its going to go green on the inside and brown on the outside. Just never had luck personally but never had a nickel plated one flake off or corrode, thats just my preference.
Click to expand...

Theres a cream called mothers it will clean that cooper like nobodys businesses. Boiling in hot water also helps to remove crust out of the cooper. 

Well, im here waiting from @OptimusWC to offer on the flat version as he dont believe my results vs the 380. I will take only the "flat" base xD


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Yeah lots of variables now, especially since that Signature block is basically sanded beyond repair
> 
> In our testing, without having a super controlled environment, it is very hard to get consistent results. Like a couple C of ambient will throw everything off. It may seem like the conditions are normal but they aren't
> 
> Couple of points: The signature definitely does not damage the fins, it makes contact across the entire area (same as the foundation). We've tested all this every which way. Especially in a controlled environment. We use a temp room with temperature controlled water regulator to take out any fluid changes and ambient hardware changes.
> 
> As for lapping the signature, def don't try that. You'll break through the fins. There's zero reason to lap it  Or even try to make it flat. We have a version of the signature that's the flat version. So trying to lap the top block and cold plate will only make results super strange


Hi,
No faith 
You said have fun with it so I am if something doesn't mate we must make it mate because tightening it so much it goes through the back of the board is not a good thing I don't believe you have replacement mother board coverage do you 

Still spins like a top on glass so obviously it's still bowed just not near as much and brass to copper there is no clash of materials so what's the problem and I did not lap the cold plate 

Yes controlled environment is a biotch Texas has been pretty warm last few days should cool a little next day or so


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> Theres a cream called mothers it will clean that cooper like nobodys businesses. Boiling in hot water also helps to remove crust out of the cooper.
> 
> Well, im here waiting from @OptimusWC to offer on the flat version as he dont believe my results vs the 380. I will take only the "flat" base xD


AFAIK they offer an "Ultra flat" cold plate. If my chip was out of warranty Id already be down that route, Ive got a 7900x thats already been voided long ago the Ive tried everything to tame the heat, just not happening. delid with LM, direct die with LM, direct die with kryonaught. Pretty much the only thing the helped was removing the crappy intel TIM in the first place. The droped me 10C right out of the gate then a lot of trial end error with no gain. Yeah mothers works great, I just dont like having to do it. Even rubbing compound works fine. Been down that road and scrubbed the crap out of the inside with toothbrush and rubbing compound. With the Nickel plating I dont have to do jack and it stays nice and clean and shiny, of course a given that you dont use crappy coolant that would mess up a wet dream. 

The 380 cold plate is very similar in design to the HK. Ive not tried one but you arent the first Ive heard that swear by them. 

According to their webpage the sig V2 is available with a flat cold plate. They said they dont recommend it on bare die but I guess that really applies to how much prep work you did with the bare die kit to make it lay flat. I like the old days where everything was flat and the only reason people lapped was with 2000 grit to make it smooth and shiny.

I just noted that Im #2 on the 9940X on CPUID validation. Thats gotta change! Someone got me by 0.67Hz bump up my BClock a tiny bit to beat that. Might even try for 5.2


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Theres a cream called mothers it will clean that cooper like nobodys businesses. Boiling in hot water also helps to remove crust out of the cooper.
> 
> Well, im here waiting from @OptimusWC to offer on the flat version as he dont believe my results vs the 380. I will take only the "flat" base xD
> 
> 
> 
> AFAIK they offer an "Ultra flat" cold plate. If my chip was out of warranty Id already be down that route, Ive got a 7900x thats already been voided long ago the Ive tried everything to tame the heat, just not happening. delid with LM, direct die with LM, direct die with kryonaught. Pretty much the only thing the helped was removing the crappy intel TIM in the first place. The droped me 10C right out of the gate then a lot of trial end error with no gain. Yeah mothers works great, I just dont like having to do it. Even rubbing compound works fine. Been down that road and scrubbed the crap out of the inside with toothbrush and rubbing compound. With the Nickel plating I dont have to do jack and it stays nice and clean and shiny, of course a given that you dont use crappy coolant that would mess up a wet dream.
> 
> The 380 cold plate is very similar in design to the HK. Ive not tried one but you arent the first Ive heard that swear by them.
> 
> According to their webpage the sig V2 is available with a flat cold plate. They said they dont recommend it on bare die but I guess that really applies to how much prep work you did with the bare die kit to make it lay flat. I like the old days where everything was flat and the only reason people lapped was with 2000 grit to make it smooth and shiny.
> 
> I just noted that Im #2 on the 9940X on CPUID validation. Thats gotta change! Someone got me by 0.67Hz bump up my BClock a tiny bit to beat that.
Click to expand...

Well like you saw i try every thing possible other than lapping the die itself you saw the pictures of my ice bare die mount which i heavily modified with not sucess and optimuswc recommends the standard for bare die and stock ihs... I try differebt types of mounts even ek all nickel ones which are the best mounts of all. Koolance 380 mounts is more forgiving and even with those either where you have alot of range...


I tame my 7980xe using this block with almost 1.3mV (-0.010mV adaptive) 49x -1avx... theres a pic back on a 2 hr rog bench run flawless core spread were fine and cold for the settings used.

But idk the replys i get back to my results looks like it can do better some of them even weird like the one that said oh its "when you push hard". Like really.... Or the " variances" on mountings..... I swapped that block multiple times in a row i even swap it for the 380 and back and got exactly the same results.... You can even see the variance in temps with logo down/up and goofy mountings and back to logo down in a row. But you know i have no idea i supposed..

So im wondering, well prove me wrong i dont see nobody here with lower temp results than mine i even throw results on a 8700k "i even run p95 on that one" they were good as well but looks like im missing a post somewhere? Funny thing is im not using a chiller or exotic cooling.

Anybody that has this chips knows the heat they produce i just say what chip and vcore and they will know lol..


Heres the post
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...mus-waterblock-post28332332.html#post28332332


----------



## ThrashZone

Kalm_Traveler said:


> springless mount for my Sig V2 arrived today, going to swap these posts + caps on tonight and see if that helps the 10980xe temp delta at all. Will also be checking mating surfaces.
> 
> Hang tight folks, will report back soon.


Hi,
I know mine was a terrible mate
Hoping it's better now after altering what creates the bow.

Lapping a 1100.us chip verses lapping what creates the bow on a 180.us water block well it's clear to me which warranty is better to scrap


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Btw, i dont have to use a chiller in this winter months. just putting the rad on the window in a day we have like -12c as ambient would be enough..


----------



## JustinThyme

Yeah Ive been contemplating a MO-RA. Maybe later. I get my near chiller performance in the summer months by putting a 5K BTU window AC in right behind the case hitting the back intake. Clocking it to 5.1 GHz helped out something. Dont know if the heat up of the TIM increased its performance or what but Im now peaking at 80C hottest core with an 11C soread even from the cold core0. Take out two coldest cores and its a spread of 7C. Ambient @ 21C.


----------



## TheFrknPope

If anyone is interested in a MOR radiator let me know I’ll let her go for a reasonable price. She just collects dust now. Used it for about a year.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> Btw, i dont have to use a chiller in this winter months. just putting the rad on the window in a day we have like -12c as ambient would be enough..



What Id love to see it what you get out of it without the free nature provided chiller in a 20-22C ambient.
Thats pretty cool and I dont think its going to get much better than that. Pretty tight spread. 

Yeah the marketing team is gets to be a bit much with "It will do better" You can push it harder"! They arent the only ones though. Try sending in an Issue with an EK block. First reply you get 100% of the time is YOU did something wrong. Either mount, TIM or loop. 
Ill just settle on its a decent block and one of the front runners but its not some miracle thats going to drop you by more than 3-5C tops Unless you were running a very cheap crappy block in the first place. I like it, its solid, good spread and top contender which may drive others to innovation before they lose their market although at times I think you could throw an EK badge on a car radiator and $10 Chinese block and people would snatch it up like it was the best thing on the planet......so long as it has RGB. I guess you can be complacent with new designs when you have people following a logo.


----------



## MonnieRock

Reading all of this, I am concerned about the "curvature" built into the design of the Signature V2 Intel block and the OEM IHS on my Xeon E5 1680V2. Yes, I am not using a 10980XE or 9980XE but cooling is my objective.

zGunBLADEz, Kalm_Traveler and ThrashZone: 

What kind of flow rates are you getting? 
What do you use to measure your flow rates?


----------



## TheFrknPope

MonnieRock said:


> Reading all of this, I am concerned about the "curvature" built into the design of the Signature V2 Intel block and the OEM IHS on my Xeon E5 1680V2. Yes, I am not using a 10980XE or 9980XE but cooling is my objective.
> 
> zGunBLADEz, Kalm_Traveler and ThrashZone:
> 
> What kind of flow rates are you getting?
> What do you use to measure your flow rates?


 yeah I’m interested to see how people are measuring their flow rates as well!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
The blocks either one are restrictive no telling how much depends on how much you tighten them 
I could clearly see where the cooling fins left marks on the o-ring and that tells me part of the o-ring goes farther past the top reducing flow more.
I use dual pumps so it's not a huge deal my filter probably does more but both yeah it's likely reducing flow more then heatkiller 4 pro but foundation cools better so it's a wash 

If i can get the signature fitting better it may do better but prior tests are worse than foundation atm.


----------



## MonnieRock

TheFrknPope said:


> yeah I’m interested to see how people are measuring their flow rates as well!


I would be really interested if there is something to show flow rates in the windows environment without breaking the wallet. My case is a 4U server chassis. No pretty glass, disco LEDS, etc. Straight industrial look/use


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

MonnieRock said:


> Reading all of this, I am concerned about the "curvature" built into the design of the Signature V2 Intel block and the OEM IHS on my Xeon E5 1680V2. Yes, I am not using a 10980XE or 9980XE but cooling is my objective.
> 
> zGunBLADEz, Kalm_Traveler and ThrashZone:
> 
> What kind of flow rates are you getting?
> What do you use to measure your flow rates?


Hi, 

I don't have a flow meter. So far my only concerns have been component and water temperatures.


----------



## Shawnb99

MonnieRock said:


> I would be really interested if there is something to show flow rates in the windows environment without breaking the wallet. My case is a 4U server chassis. No pretty glass, disco LEDS, etc. Straight industrial look/use


Buy a Flow meter and Quadro from Aquacomputer.


----------



## switters1

*order delay?*

Anyone waiting on an order they placed with OptimusPC. I ordered a Foundation AMD block, paid for it, got some sort of app link (Arrive) to track the order instead of a tracking number. I've sent 2 emails and a PM and no response regarding the order. I kind of think if stock isn't available at the webstore it should be indicated BEFORE they take your payment. Anyone, anyone? Beuhler??


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey there, responded to your PM and most recent email asap  Definitely frustrating about the delay, apologies!! We're working like crazy to get blocks out as soon as we can. Some blocks are in stock, some are being made, then go into a box. Right now, we're cranking through blocks, so something might be out of stock for a minute, then back in stock, or out of stock for longer. But it's really tricky right now (as a small company) But we will hopefully be solving these issues soon


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> (as a small company)


Hurry up and get bigger already


----------



## switters1

*Thanks so much!!*

Matt,
You guys are great!! Thank you so much for response. Receiving a discount of any sort was not my intention, but I do appreciate the awesome customer service! I am really looking forward to getting this into my loop.
I know you guys are probably inundated. Sorry if I came off like a d**k!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Editing the build video this week for www.liquid.haus


----------



## JustinThyme

MonnieRock said:


> Reading all of this, I am concerned about the "curvature" built into the design of the Signature V2 Intel block and the OEM IHS on my Xeon E5 1680V2. Yes, I am not using a 10980XE or 9980XE but cooling is my objective.
> 
> zGunBLADEz, Kalm_Traveler and ThrashZone:
> 
> What kind of flow rates are you getting?
> What do you use to measure your flow rates?


Flow is definitely more restrictive compared to others like HK IV pro.

If you have pumps with some a$$ to push it, theres not a problem. I think a DDC would probably fall short of the task. Im running 3 D5 pumps which is way more than needed. Currently Using a Barrowch flowmeter as I can see it through the case window and it also reports back to aquaero. Its pretty accurate, compared to aquaero flowmeter that I put in a test loop against an industrial grade mass flow meter that I borrowed from a customer that has no moving parts. They are within 5% so give or take so at 5L/M maybe .025 off.

I had it in with a distro that maxed out around 11L/M but had a funny feeling that most of my flow was going through GPU blocks. Removed Distro so its in and out of everything, only thing left paralleled are the GPUS. Flow rate dropped to max of 9L/M but performance improved by 3-4C just making that change. How much you need in pumps depends on what else you have in the loop. If its just one or two low restriction rads and a GPU block you can probably get 3.5 to 4L/m on a single D5. Ive always run at least two in serial. 

With current set up with the GPU blocks, Sig V2 block, VRM cooler, EK XE 480, EK SE 360 and HW Labs GTR 420 im getting 520L/hr off of 3 pumps which is more than plenty.


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> Hurry up and get bigger already


hurry up and release the GPU blocks already. we joked about 3080ti being here in time for 2080ti block release


----------



## Krisztias

LiquidHaus said:


> www.liquid.haus


link doesn't working


----------



## skupples

might be your region.


----------



## tistou77

Krisztias said:


> link doesn't working


https://liquid-haus.squarespace.com/


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

JustinThyme said:


> Flow is definitely more restrictive compared to others like HK IV pro.
> 
> If you have pumps with some a$$ to push it, theres not a problem. I think a DDC would probably fall short of the task. Im running 3 D5 pumps which is way more than needed. Currently Using a Barrowch flowmeter as I can see it through the case window and it also reports back to aquaero. Its pretty accurate, compared to aquaero flowmeter that I put in a test loop against an industrial grade mass flow meter that I borrowed from a customer that has no moving parts. They are within 5% so give or take so at 5L/M maybe .025 off.
> 
> I had it in with a distro that maxed out around 11L/M but had a funny feeling that most of my flow was going through GPU blocks. Removed Distro so its in and out of everything, only thing left paralleled are the GPUS. Flow rate dropped to max of 9L/M but performance improved by 3-4C just making that change. How much you need in pumps depends on what else you have in the loop. If its just one or two low restriction rads and a GPU block you can probably get 3.5 to 4L/m on a single D5. Ive always run at least two in serial.
> 
> With current set up with the GPU blocks, Sig V2 block, VRM cooler, EK XE 480, EK SE 360 and HW Labs GTR 420 im getting 520L/hr off of 3 pumps which is more than plenty.


I have two separate loops, with their own D5 pump each so not really worried.

CPU loop is just CPU block + EK 560mm radiator, graphics card loop is both Aqua Computer 2080Ti/Titan blocks in parallel + EK 560mm radiator.

I like to keep things separate for testing / troubleshooting / swapping parts and all that.


----------



## JustinThyme

Kalm_Traveler said:


> I have two separate loops, with their own D5 pump each so not really worried.
> 
> CPU loop is just CPU block + EK 560mm radiator, graphics card loop is both Aqua Computer 2080Ti/Titan blocks in parallel + EK 560mm radiator.
> 
> I like to keep things separate for testing / troubleshooting / swapping parts and all that.


Nothing wrong with that. Ive done separate loops but prefer the single. 
two 560 rads, what case you running or are they external. I have an Enthoo Elite That I thought was huge but only one place for a 560 and that cuts my bottom rad to a 360 max.

Never mind, just saw you have the tower 900.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

I see i didnt see no reply to my findings go figures xD...
Wasnt expecting no less ..xD i guess the next test im going to throw here is a $50 byski cpu block xD


My flow rate is between a mora3 with a d5 lv5 and just the signaturev2 nothing less in the loop other than what mentioned i dont measure flow rate dont have the need to .. In my regular setup would be 3x240s @ phobya 1260 (9x140s) @ 2x gpu blocks @ cpu block @ 2 d5s at lv3 my water temps tops 2-3c over ambient even at 95f+ degree weather in the hottest months..

My main loop consist on whats mentioned except the phobya. Is a small loop by itself on a TT VT20 case d5 lv3 moving thru 3x240s which are in serial so they count as 1 for restriction @ 2gpu blocks @ cpu block back to d5 the phobya rad would be quick disconnect in parallel thru the middle rad multi ports out/in without disturbing the flow as he have his own d5 so pressure in the loop will take care of it when i turn it on..


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

swapped the Signature V2 spring mount out for springless mount just now. 

Paste spread seemed fine already, but springless mount seems a lot easier to install and tighten evenly than the spring mount setup.

light use I'm seeing only 4c spread between cores, with some benchmark runs - if I ignore the coolest core spread is 13c so slight improvement by using the springless mount.

I might still lap the IHS and get an ultra-flat Signature V2 for it but we'll see. Overall this seems to be 3c better core-to-core delta and about 3c lower temps overall as well.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Flat line and lap that dog chip then


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, i dont have to use a chiller in this winter months. just putting the rad on the window in a day we have like -12c as ambient would be enough..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What Id love to see it what you get out of it without the free nature provided chiller in a 20-22C ambient.
> Thats pretty cool and I dont think its going to get much better than that. Pretty tight spread.
> 
> Yeah the marketing team is gets to be a bit much with "It will do better" You can push it harder"! They arent the only ones though. Try sending in an Issue with an EK block. First reply you get 100% of the time is YOU did something wrong. Either mount, TIM or loop.
> Ill just settle on its a decent block and one of the front runners but its not some miracle thats going to drop you by more than 3-5C tops Unless you were running a very cheap crappy block in the first place. I like it, its solid, good spread and top contender which may drive others to innovation before they lose their market although at times I think you could throw an EK badge on a car radiator and $10 Chinese block and people would snatch it up like it was the best thing on the planet......so long as it has RGB. I guess you can be complacent with new designs when you have people following a logo.
Click to expand...

Well my tests were performed in 65f aroundish ambient when i did the upside logo mount was quite almost between 68-70f including the 1.30mV 49x rogbench 2hr test which was around in low 60s 63 aroundish still didnt broke a sweat. But all the different mountings were at the same ambient almost ..

Yesterday test was the only one that i actually moved the rad to the ambient open window lol

Another thing was using the same settings as previous settings but my vrms were colder like 20c colder that "heatsink" the asrock x299M its doing nothing at all. (I actually got into the x299 platform with a 7820x which the asrock board served her purpose, then i got the 7940x then the 7980xe). Still it was over 90c under those conditions board temp was 12c lol, not like the previous tests were vrms were at 110c but still high its a shame it have features my evga doesnt have that i want but the evga is a better board like miles away... my cpu package was 25-30w lower than previois tests. Thats why i want my evga micro2 back i repurchased for that sole reason, i love that board vrms are so well cooled my package is less watts and my cpu is cooler too and it requires less input so even cooler.

So technical speaking my temps on the evga should reflect better temps than the asrock board. Using the same settings i used previously.. Obviously i cant push the 1.300mV on the asrock that i was doing in the evga micro2 on the rog bench test without getting into issues.. 1.200mV tops or 400w tops under control conditions where is active cooled..

So thinking about that "handicap" i get great temps. But you know "im doing something" wrong :rollseyes:


----------



## GAN77

* Optimus Signature V2 CPU Block Review
Optimus Foundation CPU Block (Intel) Review*


----------



## ThrashZone

GAN77 said:


> * Optimus Signature V2 CPU Block Review
> Optimus Foundation CPU Block (Intel) Review*


Hi,
Yep 
Doubt anyone actually averages ..10-18 core temps for a conclusion of cooling performance but they did 
Funny they also used the garbage thermal paste optimus sent :thumbsdow

I'm sure we've all had hot cores mostly from bad contact and I'm also sure we've seen deltas of closer to 5-.. cooler with either foundation or signature 
Maybe I haven't with the sig yet but I'm hopeful but have on the foundation with tighter core temp spreads something they neglected to notice between blocks.

But they did offer a better picture of the fin marks on the entire length of the center o-ring 

Which once again showing that this should not be tightened so much that it makes the length of the cold plate "FLAT that sort of defeats the purpose of creating a bow" to shape the top of the chip right ?

It also shows the center of the cold plate is raising up thus not making contact with the center of the chip "the chip is not flat" and cold plat is flat if you get what I'm saying 
The cold plate must stay in close contact with the chip to do that and best cooling.

Lastly I guess I'm seeing what I want to see :doh:


----------



## Kutalion

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep
> Doubt anyone actually averages ..10-18 core temps for a conclusion of cooling performance but they did
> Funny they also used the garbage thermal paste optimus sent :thumbsdow
> 
> I'm sure we've all had hot cores mostly from bad contact and I'm also sure we've seen deltas of closer to 5-.. cooler with either foundation or signature
> Maybe I haven't with the sig yet but I'm hopeful but have on the foundation with tighter core temp spreads something they neglected to notice between blocks.
> 
> But they did offer a better picture of the fin marks on the entire length of the center o-ring
> 
> Which once again showing that this should not be tightened so much that it makes the length of the cold plate "FLAT that sort of defeats the purpose of creating a bow" to shape the top of the chip right ?
> 
> It also shows the center of the cold plate is raising up thus not making contact with the center of the chip "the chip is not flat" and cold plat is flat if you get what I'm saying
> The cold plate must stay in close contact with the chip to do that and best cooling.
> 
> Lastly I guess I'm seeing what I want to see :doh:


As far as I know VSG uses standardized testing with Noctua NT-H1, so the thermal paste makes no impact on the performance.

I'm pretty sure he's the best in business right now, he does three separate mounts and gets an average between those, so subpar mounting is not an issue.
It might be that his CPU IHS is slightly different to others and impacts results, but seeing how all the CPU blocks get tested on it, it's the same for all of them.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I agree with foundation being a better buy and quality... assessments but 1c please I've seen at least 3c on heatkiller 4 pro so again I'm seeing what I want to see I suppose :doh:
If I went core by core I'm sure there is a core max temp that got 5c cooler too so averages is not the way to assess cooling only max tells the story anyone or at least I care about.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

So they measure TCase? Okay......

Oh no wait my bad they averaged an aida64 load .... I be getting close to ambient temps on that on my 7980xe lol, fpu test was at least active? :rollseyes:



> perhaps some people seeing what they want to see.


You mean a almost a decade old block beating it or almost in par? Sure im seeing stuff allright xD


----------



## Ashcroft

GAN77 said:


> * Optimus Signature V2 CPU Block Review
> Optimus Foundation CPU Block (Intel) Review*


Lol

What a surprise.

If only we had seen it coming 

Overblown claims and dodgy marketing about other brands were a dead giveaway. They've reinvented old school Euro style high restriction cooling. Hooray! Its almost like the laws of thermodynamics DO apply after all. They got so close to that 1C improvement I told them about.

At least its a good block in the end but i wonder how well it will transfer to future chips with no way to adjust it.


----------



## ThrashZone

Ashcroft said:


> Lol
> 
> What a surprise.
> 
> If only we had seen it coming
> 
> Overblown claims and dodgy marketing about other brands were a dead giveaway.
> 
> At least its a good block in the end but i wonder how well it will transfer to *future chips with no way to adjust it*.


Hi,
Not sure what you mean by that.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Ashcroft said:
> 
> 
> 
> Lol
> 
> What a surprise.
> 
> If only we had seen it coming /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> Overblown claims and dodgy marketing about other brands were a dead giveaway.
> 
> At least its a good block in the end but i wonder how well it will transfer to *future chips with no way to adjust it*.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Not sure what you mean by that.
Click to expand...

He means socket compatibility..


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Think Intel is going to change socket designs ?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Think Intel is going to change socket designs ?


 idk knowing Intel it wouldnt surprise me amd did with am4 tho xD


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> idk knowing Intel it wouldnt surprise me amd did with am4 tho xD


Hi,
Another good thing about the foundation 
The mount bracket is removable since it's three piece not two piece like the sig.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> idk knowing Intel it wouldnt surprise me amd did with am4 tho xD
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Another good thing about the foundation
> The mount bracket is removable since it's three piece not two piece like the sig.
Click to expand...

Now that you mention that im wondering if i get similar results in this 2 like the 380 specially the *china* block xD


----------



## Ashcroft

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Not sure what you mean by that.


Well I mean like when years ago Stren did his tests that put the CPU380i at the top and everyone went mad buying it and telling others to but when it was tested later on other chips it fell right down near the bottom of the charts.

There are differences between small and large socket chips and between generations of chips that can have a big impact on how blocks perform. 
Its the reason EK and others have changeable jet plates and so on. Being as this one is just fixed it will be interesting to see how it fares.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Ashcroft said:


> Well I mean like when years ago Stren did his tests that put the CPU380i at the top and everyone went mad buying it and telling others to but when it was tested later on other chips it fell right down near the bottom of the charts.
> 
> There are differences between small and large socket chips and between generations of chips that can have a big impact on how blocks perform.
> Its the reason EK and others have changeable jet plates and so on. Being as this one is just fixed it will be interesting to see how it fares.


idk but i vouch for the 380 cough almost a decade old block cough its not even the main block i use. my 7980xe was rocking a byski block lol


i fire up aida64 without fpu test which is avx512 and the cores all of them are under 40c cpu socket draw its not even 250w so on a 9900k it would be even less power
but then i remember "when push to the extreme" xD

:rollseyes:


----------



## ThrashZone

Ashcroft said:


> Well I mean like when years ago Stren did his tests that put the CPU380i at the top and everyone went mad buying it and telling others to but when it was tested later on other chips it fell right down near the bottom of the charts.
> 
> There are differences between small and large socket chips and between generations of chips that can have a big impact on how blocks perform.
> Its the reason EK and others have changeable jet plates and so on. Being as this one is just fixed it will be interesting to see how it fares.


Hi,
Been quite a bit of comparisons on 380i Jp has one so does zGun 

Here's Jp's when he thought it was doing good 
I was saying I rma'ed a 9940x because core temp spread was that bad 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-19.html#post28262876

And now on a signature demo block it's much better now
https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-35.html#post28282088

But then zGun has shown his 380i to be doing better so far.


----------



## pmc25

Can't say the results are that impressive from TPU. Not just due to the relative price, but the MASSIVE pressure drop. In a real system, where typically the CPU is further down the loop than GPU (and potentially rads), the real world performance, assuming this testing was accurate, should be below some of the other blocks. Also, even assuming it was first in loop, it's still highly likely performance falls below the Aquacomputer with VARIO.

Still interested in seeing AMD results though. I feel this is a better use case. Plus the vast majority of self-build new PCs are AMD now.


----------



## ThrashZone

pmc25 said:


> Can't say the results are that impressive from TPU. Not just due to the relative price, but the MASSIVE pressure drop. In a real system, where typically the CPU is further down the loop than GPU (and potentially rads), the real world performance, assuming this testing was accurate, should be below some of the other blocks. Also, even assuming it was first in loop, it's still highly likely performance falls below the Aquacomputer with VARIO.
> 
> Still interested in seeing AMD results though. I feel this is a better use case. Plus the vast majority of self-build new PCs are AMD now.


Hi,
Thinking that pressure drop is mostly from over tightening 
Said it before but any mounting that leaves marks on an o-ring is too much 
And also that surface the o-ring in inserted in is flat 
So if you tighten it up so much that you flatted out the cold plate you also lifted the cold plate above the chip causing higher temps in the center of the chip.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-181.html#post28336090


----------



## Ricey20

I received my Optimus AMD Foundation block last week and have been testing. I'm getting about 5C better temps than my EK Supremacy. I wish TPU would make an AMD test rig.


----------



## Optimus WC

Couple of things:

The resistance is overstated in how much it matters in a real world loop. Obviously there are tons of people using our blocks with real world performance numbers in this forum. If it mattered that much, the results would be that much different  

The diff between the Optimus block and the next top performing block on TPU is .6 PSI. 

Really, pressure is one of those metrics that, while interesting, just isn't that critical to look at for the average person. 
@ThrashZone Interesting thoughts, but that's not really what's going on with the design. The Foundation is within the margin of error for pressure. The block performs the best when tightened to the max. I still think your IHS is funky in some way


----------



## Krisztias

tistou77 said:


> https://liquid-haus.squarespace.com/


Thank you!


----------



## Optimus WC

LiquidHaus said:


> Editing the build video this week for www.liquid.haus


And awesome pics!! Forgot to say anything earlier! 

How you liking the blocks so far?


----------



## JustinThyme

Honestly, I expect a pressure drop from a good performing block. Anything Ive used in the past that had little pressure drop also offered little to no performance. I'm no aquatics engineer but I am an Electronics Engineer. The way I would equate restriction and pressure in a cooling block would be to compare it to a power washer. Squirt it with a 40-60 psi water hose and all you do it get it wet. Hit it with 2000 psi and you are taking the paint off, well any that is loose. 

Thats been the entire concept of "Jets" since the inception outperforming an old school block that was just water in one side and back out the other with a bunch of pillars or cross cuts in the cold plate. They didnt offer any pressure drop nor much performance as what its evolved into today. My very first block I made in a machine shop that (there was no market then) and the cold plate just had a bunch of divots drilled into it to cause some turbulence and the VERY old forums connecting via 14K modem we had discussions on how many holes to drill and which car heater core made the best rads.

Then my first actual commercially made blocks were on a pair of AMD athlon 64 FX dual core CPUs that were mounted in an ASUS dual socket MOBO that gave me quad core before there was such a thing. Then 6 months later Intel launches first quad core for half the cost of what I spent on the freakin dual socket MOBO that required ECC Ram which isnt cheap! To say those things ran hot as Hades is an understatement although I did break the 1GHz barrier with them. I used Danger Den blocks similar to whats in the photo below. I still have the actual blocks in my basement along with the MOBO and CPUs for nostalgic purposes, even the ram and North bridge cooler. I might get a weed up my butt and throw a PSU on it and see if the AGP graphics card is on a shelf and fire it up and watch it take 30 mins to do a cinebench run while heating up the neighborhood doing it. (PCIE wasnt even a term) Today we laugh at these designs that were "Cutting edge" when they hit the market. They had zero pressure drop and not much better performance than the massive solid Copper air heat sinks of the day with Vantec tornado 80mm fans that the neighbors down the block would call with a noise complaint. 

Yeah Im getting to be an old fart but Ive grown up into some serious innovations that only get better, this is one of them and I welcome Optimus to the WC arena and wish them the best of luck with the cut throats that are going to mimic IP or just outright steal it as it sucks being #2, aka first loser. I see change from other vendors coming down the pipeline. Im just happy to see a top competitor with a "Made in the USA" label on it. 

As for the review, Im not finding AIDA 64 a very stressful test unless you check off CPU and FPU boxes for the stress test. CPU alone I barely break 60C after an hour or more. Good thing about the review from a trusted source is the name Optimus is now etched into the market.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I don't know what review optimus wc read but the ones I read was a kick in the balls with his silly method of average of 1c lol 
Knew from the beginning of the review after seeing rabid hype it wasn't going to be good.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I don't know what review optimus wc read but the ones I read was a kick in the balls with his silly method of average of 1c lol
> Knew from the beginning of the review after seeing rabid hype it wasn't going to be good.


Wasnt good but wasn't bad either. Send the blocks to Igor! He will not go into all the hype, just load the crap out of it and show you the numbers live as they happen. The charts were a bit misleading as well with performance being broken down into multipliers instead of just show me the reality. 1C difference probably was real when running AIDA 64 CPU only bench with no AVX workloads.


----------



## skupples

AIDA 64 is not something I'd recommend using for stress testing temps. the goal is stress. it doesn't really stress all that much. just makes sure everything is working.


----------



## Zurv

Any update on the GPU blocks?

I was planning to jump back into the division 2 (as the xpac is coming in 2 weeks.) It would be nice to cool my ram a little better than the bitpower huge thermal pads. (The CPU too.. but even not it doesn't get above 45C. RTX Titan SLI)

... the longer this take the less likely i'd want to revisit my kingpin SLI. But i will jump in right away for the 30xx


----------



## jura11

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep
> Doubt anyone actually averages ..10-18 core temps for a conclusion of cooling performance but they did
> Funny they also used the garbage thermal paste optimus sent :thumbsdow
> 
> I'm sure we've all had hot cores mostly from bad contact and I'm also sure we've seen deltas of closer to 5-.. cooler with either foundation or signature
> Maybe I haven't with the sig yet but I'm hopeful but have on the foundation with tighter core temp spreads something they neglected to notice between blocks.
> 
> But they did offer a better picture of the fin marks on the entire length of the center o-ring
> 
> Which once again showing that this should not be tightened so much that it makes the length of the cold plate "FLAT that sort of defeats the purpose of creating a bow" to shape the top of the chip right ?
> 
> It also shows the center of the cold plate is raising up thus not making contact with the center of the chip "the chip is not flat" and cold plat is flat if you get what I'm saying
> The cold plate must stay in close contact with the chip to do that and best cooling.
> 
> Lastly I guess I'm seeing what I want to see :doh:


Hi there 

Personally I don't care about average temperatures or core temperatures, I care more about PKG temperatures on HDET CPU or any normal Intel CPU and similar this should apply to AMD CPU 

Techpowerup, thermalbench.com or VGS is one best reviewers with fast_fate from Xtreme Rigs 

I thought so getting one of Optimus CPU blocks, although I already running Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos CPU NEXT and switching to Optimus I would probably gain 1-2°C on PKG as max which in my case, it doesn't make sense to switch

I have tested on my loop already Heatkiller IV Pro and difference between my Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos NEXT and Heatkiller IV Pro have been just 0.5-1.5°C on PKG on my 5960x or 5930k or 6950x(borrowed CPU from friend) 

Plus every loop is so different and therefore yours results or temperatures will be largely different from other people over here

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## ThrashZone

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> Personally I don't care about average temperatures or core temperatures, I care more about PKG temperatures on HDET CPU or any normal Intel CPU and similar this should apply to AMD CPU
> 
> Techpowerup, thermalbench.com or VGS is one best reviewers with fast_fate from Xtreme Rigs
> 
> I thought so getting one of Optimus CPU blocks, although I already running Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos CPU NEXT and switching to Optimus I would probably gain 1-2°C on PKG as max which in my case, it doesn't make sense to switch
> 
> I have tested on my loop already Heatkiller IV Pro and difference between my Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos NEXT and Heatkiller IV Pro have been just 0.5-1.5°C on PKG on my 5960x or 5930k or 6950x(borrowed CPU from friend)
> 
> Plus every loop is so different and therefore yours results or temperatures will be largely different from other people over here
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Hi,
Package temp on haswell-e and probably broadwell-e too is way off 
Not sure what you use but I use hwinfo and it doesn't read quite a few temps on haswell-e worth beans 5c higher than max core on 6 cores :doh:

9940x with hwinfo is max core is 99.9% time the same as package temp
Maybe asus end issue with sensors on my x99 but I wouldn't take any package temp to heart on x99.

You know the review was to narrow in scope it was laughable and is no way to rate thermal capability 
This is mainly for a space heater chip and high clocks not a walk in the park clock chip so the review was crap reviewer or not they didn't actually test thermal capabilities as far as I could see.
Sure didn't share much data either so on even your preference package temps which would of been fine too but no he was to much into people see what they want to see garbage and rabid hype :thumbsdow


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> AIDA 64 is not something I'd recommend using for stress testing temps. the goal is stress. it doesn't really stress all that much. just makes sure everything is working.


Hi,
Yeah I was in the impression it was mainly a cache and memory test.


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> AIDA 64 is not something I'd recommend using for stress testing temps. the goal is stress. it doesn't really stress all that much. just makes sure everything is working.


If you run the CPU and FPU stress tests combined it puts a good bit more on it. Also another decent one to load it up is realbench stress especially if you have CPU Intel OpenCL drivers installed and uncheck the GPUS and let it run handbrake and Open CL for a bit. Gets similar results as Blender.
But yeah here is my AIDA64 CPU only for about 40 mins. No AVX work load When I ran this my hottest core was hitting 84 on blender, Im down to 80C on that now. Add the FPU tick box and AIDA64 will heat it right up. Ill run one later and post it up. In the end the review didnt focus on HEDT and it used a weak stress test. They could have at least added the FPU but my guess is their sample CPU probably cant handle it. If I could get those temps with an AVX work load and 22C ambient Id be happy as a pig in.............sh...........mud.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> skupples said:
> 
> 
> 
> AIDA 64 is not something I'd recommend using for stress testing temps. the goal is stress. it doesn't really stress all that much. just makes sure everything is working.
> 
> 
> 
> If you run the CPU and FPU stress tests combined it puts a good bit more on it. Also another decent one to load it up is realbench stress especially if you have CPU Intel OpenCL drivers installed and uncheck the GPUS and let it run handbrake and Open CL for a bit. Gets similar results as Blender.
> But yeah here is my AIDA64 CPU only for about 40 mins. No AVX work load When I ran this my hottest core was hitting 84 on blender, Im down to 80C on that now. Add the FPU tick box and AIDA64 will heat it right up. Ill run one later and post it up. In the end the review didnt focus on HEDT and it used a weak stress test. They could have at least added the FPU but my guess is their sample CPU probably cant handle it. If I could get those temps with an AVX work load and 22C ambient Id be happy as a pig in.............sh...........mud.
Click to expand...

Aida fpu uses avx512 so its not a measure we should use to vs 9900k no avx512.... I mean you just dont stress test with aida period lol..... Now if just have cpu it will use half or 2/4 the watts you see in blender.. It was literally under 40c on all my cores this morning for my amusement. Tomorrow i get my new evga hopefully waiting for temp to go back to 65f where i open bench so i can close this with a $50 china block xD

Now theres a modified linpack ask @Jpmboy it uses avx512 just be very careful with it it will peak in huge wattage peaks using avx512 on vcores like 1.10mV i saw 500w+ peaks out of the socket they were very brief but they shoot that high in such low vcore..


----------



## iamjanco

Optimus WC said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Couple of things:
> 
> The resistance is overstated in how much it matters in a real world loop. Obviously there are tons of people using our blocks with real world performance numbers in this forum. If it mattered that much, the results would be that much different
> 
> The diff between the Optimus block and the next top performing block on TPU is .6 PSI.
> 
> 
> 
> Really, *pressure is one of those metrics that, while interesting, just isn't that critical to look at for the average person*.
> 
> Yeah, but Overclock.net is not full of average people  ; though it's probably also not full of people who own manometers and rotameters and know how to use them  I'm not even sure testers like Igor are even set up to measure pressure drops across water cooling components, let alone interested in sharing such metrics.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> @ThrashZone Interesting thoughts, but that's not really what's going on with the design. The Foundation is within the margin of error for pressure. The block performs the best when tightened to the max. I still think your IHS is funky in some way





JustinThyme said:


> *Wasn't good but wasn't bad either. Send the blocks to Igor! He will not go into all the hype, just load the crap out of it and show you the numbers live as they happen.* The charts were a bit misleading as well with performance being broken down into multipliers instead of just show me the reality. 1C difference probably was real when running AIDA 64 CPU only bench with no AVX workloads.


Agreed. :thumb: Either a block does the job it's being marketed for, or it doesn't. There are no in-betweens. Still, I'd be lying if I said I wasn't interested in knowing why @ThrashZone has been having issues.


----------



## iamjanco

Duplicate post caused by server error: please delete.


----------



## skupples

> The pressure sensors of the mps pressure series can be useful for a variety of situations. Foremost they can be used as fill level sensors for virtuelly any type and size of reservoir. In this configuration, the sensor detects the pressure generated by the water column inside the reservoir. The sensor must be installed on the same height or lower than the bottom of the reservoir and one port of the sensor ist connected to one of the bottom inlets of the reservoir. Additionally, either the second port of the sensor has to be connected to a top port of the reservoir or a pressure equalisation membrane has to be installed in a top port of the reservoir. Fittings and membrane are not included in delivery and have to be bought seperately!


yeah have fun with that. i'll stick to my one quirk. ph. high flow is SOP  

bit from how do aquacomputer's pressure sensor.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

The problem with trash situation is that hes settle on a core spread between all cores tops 10c... Thats best case scenario most people that not delid or have a soldered ihs would only accomplish this on good loops or non so stress overclocks.. Once you start lusting that overclock and start sucking watts that spread is going to be even worst. Its just part of the game.

If you look my last test my core 14 is the hottest. My core 0 and 8 are the coldest. My core 14 is more stable even if is the highest temp. If u see the graph the coldest core have a bunch of erratic peaks up and down core 14 doesnt have this behavior


----------



## Ricey20

Optimus WC said:


> Couple of things:
> 
> The resistance is overstated in how much it matters in a real world loop. Obviously there are tons of people using our blocks with real world performance numbers in this forum. If it mattered that much, the results would be that much different
> 
> The diff between the Optimus block and the next top performing block on TPU is .6 PSI.
> 
> Really, pressure is one of those metrics that, while interesting, just isn't that critical to look at for the average person.
> 
> @ThrashZone Interesting thoughts, but that's not really what's going on with the design. The Foundation is within the margin of error for pressure. The block performs the best when tightened to the max. I still think your IHS is funky in some way


Does this mean I should try, for my AMD Foundation, that I finger tighten the nuts as much as I can until it won't twist anymore, or should I hold off a bit before it's 100% unable to twist with fingers?


----------



## JustinThyme

iamjanco said:


> Yeah, but Overclock.net is not full of average people  ; though it's probably also not full of people who own manometers and rotameters and know how to use them  I'm not even sure testers like Igor are even set up to measure pressure drops across water cooling components, let alone interested in sharing such metrics.
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed. :thumb: Either a block does the job it's being marketed for, or it doesn't. There are no in-betweens. Still, I'd be lying if I said I wasn't interested in knowing why @ThrashZone has been having issues.


I cant understand the issues Thrash has been having either. I did at first have mount issues over the springs. Trying to get two opposite corners started is near impossible with the posts run all the way in and if you leave them out enough to do so they dont go all the way back in. So yanked springs, put in posts with a tool and some blue locktite so they would stay put then cleaned, repasted with MX-4 over the previous spread of kryonaut and that one move made a huge improvement. 

Ran nuts all the way home as tight as they would go by hand and did a few runs and things improved. Backed out thumb nuts one at a time and put springs back, no change. Pulled springs and went back without and ran them all the way home as tight as I could go by hand. Tried loosening a little, no change. sitting right now to where they are tight and the studs being the deciding factor if where they bottom out. 

My temps are doing great. 80C top end and if I take out two cores that always run cooler with a load but warmer with no load Im at like a 6C spread. 10-11 with those accounted back in. We have the same 9940X only hes running an apex and Im running the original RVIE. The only other difference is my cold plate on Sig V2 is the nickel plated version.

Last thing I ran, 40 min realbench stress test with Intel OpenCL drivers and the GPUs unchecked in Luxmark so it was getting pounded with OpenGL and handdbrake encoding for 40 mins. 11 C spread with 81 being the hottest core. with 30C liquid temp and 22C ambient. Non optimized with everything running in the background as I was looking for max heat. 

Even with my bad mount on first go it topped out at 88 which had me ready to stick it back in the box and return it but pushed through that and getting what I expected, 2-3C better than HK IV pro under heavy loads when the HK was a fresh mount. It did start heating up towards the end with numbers approaching 90 on several cores. When I pulled the block the middle of it had little to no TIM there, had all been pushed out. 

I do think Hes onto something though the the bowed concept to account for raised corners. Why cant everyone just make everything freakin flat? If Im still running this platform when the warranty runs out on the chip Im gonna lap it. May talk to optimus and see if I can get a flat cold plate now while this current version is still in production. That way I can just swap them out later when I lap the IHS. 

Might even take a step backwards if I can find an ASRock X299E-ITX/AC for an overkill HTPC and see how well it works with the 7900X I have thats already been delidded and will run 5GHz but hits 95C doing it. Hard to find and people that have them are out of their freakin minds, ill build another in the 900D I have collecting dust with a full ATX board first!! 

Another project and might try bare die with it and use a foundation block just so I can say I tried the foundation. If I can get the 7900X down to mid 80s at 5GHz Ill certainly be impressed as EK and HK both failed to do so. The EK wouldnt let me get to 5GHz. Hit Themal Throttle and nearly to to point of shut down. That was the monojunk block for the RVIE that didnt cool the CPU or the VRMs very well. Ive got everything to build that except the MOBO I want becuase I want to cram it into a Phanteks Evolv Shift X which I also need to pick up with a single 1080Ti.


----------



## Ashcroft

Optimus WC said:


> Couple of things:
> 
> The resistance is overstated in how much it matters in a real world loop. Obviously there are tons of people using our blocks with real world performance numbers in this forum. If it mattered that much, the results would be that much different
> 
> The diff between the Optimus block and the next top performing block on TPU is .6 PSI.
> 
> Really, pressure is one of those metrics that, while interesting, just isn't that critical to look at for the average person.
> 
> @ThrashZone Interesting thoughts, but that's not really what's going on with the design. The Foundation is within the margin of error for pressure. The block performs the best when tightened to the max. I still think your IHS is funky in some way





Well, flow rate isn't all that important either which is saying the same thing. Although some of your customers seem to think differently if they are running 3 pumps as I think I read.

Only .6 PSI is basically another blocks worth of restriction for some of the ones in the testing.

Aquacomputer and Heatkiller have made great strides in lowering their restriction from their European style low flow rate roots while also improving on cooling. 

If pressure drop isn't important can people expect that the GPU blocks will follow suit, making a two block system similar to four blocks from common brands?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Ricey20 said:


> Optimus WC said:
> 
> 
> 
> Couple of things:
> 
> The resistance is overstated in how much it matters in a real world loop. Obviously there are tons of people using our blocks with real world performance numbers in this forum. If it mattered that much, the results would be that much different /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> The diff between the Optimus block and the next top performing block on TPU is .6 PSI.
> 
> Really, pressure is one of those metrics that, while interesting, just isn't that critical to look at for the average person.
> 
> @ThrashZone Interesting thoughts, but that's not really what's going on with the design. The Foundation is within the margin of error for pressure. The block performs the best when tightened to the max. I still think your IHS is funky in some way /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Does this mean I should try, for my AMD Foundation, that I finger tighten the nuts as much as I can until it won't twist anymore, or should I hold off a bit before it's 100% unable to twist with fingers?
Click to expand...

 in amd.you wouldn't have this issue you wont have 18 different temps to follow xD and you would be using way less watts as well so more colder it would be.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> I do think Hes onto something though the the bowed concept to account for raised corners. Why cant everyone just make everything freakin flat? If Im still running this platform when the warranty runs out on the chip Im gonna lap it. May talk to optimus and see if I can get a flat cold plate now while this current version is still in production. That way I can just swap them out later when I lap the IHS.


I try that already, i just want the 100% flat base with the fins so i can swap back and forth according to my/the needs at hand.... when he in a sarcastic way "recommended me to buy a second block" because the results vs the 380 were so close in favor of the 380 block... Then explained the flat block is entirely different... Funny tho the 380 suffer from the same fate still performed better xD.

Yeah sir, like money grows into trees. Didnt you remember i pm you to see if i can stop by your shop if you had one so i can buy a bare block without fancy stuff or the packaging so i can save a couple bucks? I wasnt asking you for free stuff. Well after the sarcastic comment towards me "also to trash comments" yeah i asked for a demo piece of course.. I still up for a flat piece i dont want to buy the whole thing... But you know all of us are so priviliged that we can buy 2 $200 bucks cpu blocks just because this is overclock.net where nobody has the "stuff" to say it how it is... Because well no free stuff, demo or wathever in between or just defending the purchase well NOT ME!!!. Ala gigabyte in my case. Or you know everybody have the awesome gig that makes alot of cha ching to spent in the hobby.. 

So i ended buying on ppcs because the pm was ignored..... Yes sir buy local they tell you...Support your local businesses xD...


----------



## Optimus WC

zGunBLADEz said:


> I try that already, i just want the 100% flat base with the fins so i can swap back and forth according to my/the needs at hand.... when he in a sarcastic way "recommended me to buy a second block" because the results vs the 380 were so close in favor of the 380 block... Then explained the flat block is entirely different... Funny tho the 380 suffer from the same fate still performed better xD.
> 
> Yeah sir, like money grows into trees. Didnt you remember i pm you to see if i can stop by your shop if you had one so i can buy a bare block without fancy stuff or the packaging so i can save a couple bucks? I wasnt asking you for free stuff. Well after the sarcastic comment towards me "also to trash comments" yeah i asked for a demo piece of course.. I still up for a flat piece i dont want to buy the whole thing... But you know all of us are so priviliged that we can buy 2 $200 bucks cpu blocks just because this is overclock.net where nobody has the "stuff" to say it how it is... Because well no free stuff, demo or wathever in between or just defending the purchase well NOT ME!!!. Ala gigabyte in my case. Or you know everybody have the awesome gig that makes alot of cha ching to spent in the hobby..
> 
> So i ended buying on ppcs because the pm was ignored..... Yes sir buy local they tell you...Support your local businesses xD...


So I'll be in Chicago this coming week (I travel around), and I'll get ya swapped out for a flat block (possibly a demo unit). Also, with the whole flat vs normal issues, we've tried to be really accommodating to the guys with lapped blocks who got the wrong one. Really, that's our fault for lack of clarity. You bought the Sig, we'll take care of you  

We're also reevaluating the whole flat block concept, because it's been so confusing and such a mess. And there's just no way to stock basically double of every block going forward - a normal version and flat version of everything. It would be madness (it's already getting that way). 

Honestly, Intel and AMD need to make flat IHS from the beginning. Or just bare die, skip the IHS entirely. It works for GPUs. 

Maybe start a no-IHS movement??


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> So I'll be in Chicago this coming week (I travel around), and I'll get ya swapped out for a flat block (possibly a demo unit). Also, with the whole flat vs normal issues, we've tried to be really accommodating to the guys with lapped blocks who got the wrong one. Really, that's our fault for lack of clarity. You bought the Sig, we'll take care of you
> 
> We're also reevaluating the whole flat block concept, because it's been so confusing and such a mess. And there's just no way to stock basically double of every block going forward - a normal version and flat version of everything. It would be madness (it's already getting that way).
> 
> Honestly, Intel and AMD need to make flat IHS from the beginning. Or just bare die, skip the IHS entirely. It works for GPUs.
> 
> Maybe start a no-IHS movement??


No arguments there. Get rid of IHS or at least make them flat.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah I remember when I lapped my 7900x 
It looked funny high on the sides and very center but cove between 
Think my 5930k was the same way.


----------



## happyluckbox

Hey Optimus, I hate to keep asking, but am curious regarding any updates along the pipeline for the threadripper blocks. I'm considering ordering a heatkiller to tide me over while I wait. However, if the optimus waterblock is really due to ship out within the next 1-2 weeks I can wait. Any update so that I can plan accordingly would be much appreciated.

I know that you guys are taking your time refining the product but it has been a few weeks since we last heard about the TR blocks.

Thank you kindly.


----------



## skupples

i always bottom out my thumb screws.


----------



## Section31

I'm definitely going all Optimus for my future build. Current one will stop with fittings and GPU Block for 30xxTI/Titan Ampere. 

My thoughts increasingly are I have to go back to the idea of an SMA8A revision like case (but smaller) and running dual thick 480-560mm rads. Maybe even dual pump setup. That or I go mini-itx with external radiator. I just don't see Intel 7nm/AMD 5nm running 5.0ghz very cool using 360mm radiators. As much as I like the AMD platform, the best choice for me was should I just bought an caselabs sma8a revision as well as the RTX2080TI i did get (budget be damned) and go for crazy cooling upgrade. I haven't benefited enough from the 7920X to 3950X upgrade.


----------



## ntuason

Hello Optimus WC,

Which version of the Signature V2 would you recommend for direct die 9900K, Ultra flat or standard? 

Thanks


----------



## Shawnb99

ntuason said:


> Hello Optimus WC,
> 
> Which version of the Signature V2 would you recommend for direct die 9900K, Ultra flat or standard?
> 
> Thanks


standard


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Optimus WC said:


> So I'll be in Chicago this coming week (I travel around), and I'll get ya swapped out for a flat block (possibly a demo unit). Also, with the whole flat vs normal issues, we've tried to be really accommodating to the guys with lapped blocks who got the wrong one. Really, that's our fault for lack of clarity. You bought the Sig, we'll take care of you
> 
> We're also reevaluating the whole flat block concept, because it's been so confusing and such a mess. And there's just no way to stock basically double of every block going forward - a normal version and flat version of everything. It would be madness (it's already getting that way).
> 
> Honestly, Intel and AMD need to make flat IHS from the beginning. Or just bare die, skip the IHS entirely. It works for GPUs.
> 
> Maybe start a no-IHS movement??


 actually read a lil blerb about this yesterday

pretty much all cpus were no IHS till the athlon 64 days.

They started doing it because people were cracking the dies during install and etc. they had like a 20% return rate just from that. I don't see them going back with all the base level PC builders out there these days. 
they straight up deny warranties for most physical damage these days if I am not mistaken. they don't cover delidded cpus...

I think they should just have a dieless model for those that do want it


----------



## oreonutz

tatmMRKIV said:


> ...I think they should just have a dieless model for those that do want it


I 100 Percent agree with that. So much so that I just sent my Rep at Intel an email asking him to kick the idea up the chain. And just to pester them, I asked my HP, Dell, and Lenovo Reps to do the same, lol. Honestly I don't know if they will, they probably don't care either way, but the HP Rep has become a friend, so I am sure he will reach out just to appease me, I said I want receipts! LOL!

Seriously though, I am just a small company, no one cares what I say, at all. Those of you on here that work for the bigger giants in the field, start annoying your contacts too, Lets get this going. Maybe by 2030 it will be a thing again! LOL! (I mean if we are successful, thats about how long with would take the giant that is Intel to come out with a new Product, lol, maybe AMD could have it ready by 2025 though if we are convincing enough!) Seriously though, for real, I am down to keep pestering them about this, we just need some bigger voices to join us!


----------



## Diffident

I'd also like an option to buy a GPU without the heatsink and fans. They do it with CPU's.


----------



## agentdark45

happyluckbox said:


> Hey Optimus, I hate to keep asking, but am curious regarding any updates along the pipeline for the threadripper blocks. I'm considering ordering a heatkiller to tide me over while I wait. However, if the optimus waterblock is really due to ship out within the next 1-2 weeks I can wait. Any update so that I can plan accordingly would be much appreciated.
> 
> I know that you guys are taking your time refining the product but it has been a few weeks since we last heard about the TR blocks.
> 
> Thank you kindly.


Bumping this.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Diffident said:


> I'd also like an option to buy a GPU without the heatsink and fans. They do it with CPU's.


That was the case with my GALAX 2080Ti HoF oc lab edition. I just wish the backplate was included. if it wasn't such a rare card I'd be better off with waterblock options. In the future it wont be too much to worry about though I guess, since bitspower is fastening the blocks to the pcie bracket now. Just missed that innovation..


----------



## JustinThyme

ntuason said:


> Hello Optimus WC,
> 
> Which version of the Signature V2 would you recommend for direct die 9900K, Ultra flat or standard?
> 
> Thanks


They posted up several times to use standard for everything but a lapped IHS. The resoning behind the standard on the bare die is the manufacture of the bare die frames. If you use flat thecold plate wont dip into the pocket. Other alternative is to get the flat and sand down the bare die frame and make sure nothing else is sticking up then use flat but their officical position is flat for lapped IHS only


----------



## Optimus WC

agentdark45 said:


> Bumping this.


So good news! We've finished up the final tweaks on the block. We took extra time to nail a few little things down because we think it was worth getting everything 100% right. So now it's all hands on deck getting these blocks out the door!! Depending on a few things (like anodizing), we'll be shipping soon, hard to give an exact time but will keep posting updates as we crank out the blocks. 

Performance is looking excellent, of course results will vary depending on what you're comparing it to, how hard you're pushing your CPUs and cooling solutions. Definitely the best block on the market . We've gotten awesome OC numbers and it's going to be really useful for people pushing 32 and 64 cores to the max. Threadripper is a really strange CPU (from a water block design perspective). The IHS is like a ripple in a pond, so getting perfect contact has been tricky. But we've worked really hard to make sure our block contact and spread is insanely good. See the pics, ignore the sloppy drip and the prototyping screw holes


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Lapped sig demo is doing okay so far 
Thermal paste needs to cure a little but out the gate 4.8 got pretty much the same as the foundation on this post 
Only difference was one other core got to 90c and one of the package readings is 1c higher.

Water temp 32c
Ambient 76f degrees so same as back in mid January 
Linked post was just two weeks curing time opposed to minutes after leak testing.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-142.html#post28314644

Going to be chilly tomorrow morning 37f degrees tonight no where near Chicago or Canada but in Texas that don't happen all that often 
Swore I saw the ground hog playing outside yesterday


----------



## JustinThyme

Just for fun
Ran CB and Blender at 4.9 1.250 Vcore. Tried backing off to 1.240 and CB ran bit score dropped. Locked up on blender.
Temps went up of course going from Vcore ot 1.220 10 1.250 but topped out at 87C 10C spread on CB and 86 11 C spread on blender.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Lapped sig demo is doing okay so far
> Thermal paste needs to cure a little but out the gate 4.8 got pretty much the same as the foundation on this post
> Only difference was one other core got to 90c and one of the package readings is 1c higher.
> 
> Water temp 32c
> Ambient 76f degrees so same as back in mid January
> Linked post was just two weeks curing time opposed to minutes after leak testing.
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-142.html#post28314644
> 
> Going to be chilly tomorrow morning 37f degrees tonight no where near Chicago or Canada but in Texas that don't happen all that often
> Swore I saw the ground hog playing outside yesterday


Still surprised you are hitting 90 at 4.8. Whats your Vcore set at
your ambient is a little higher than mine. Just trying to figure out the determining factors. I believe the power delivery on the APEX and RVIE are the same. Im not hitting 90 at 4.9GHz and 1.250 Vcore


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah 4.9 cinebench that was my first 9k score for me
Think I need 1.27 to get through opendata long.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Lapped sig demo 4c cooler at 4.5 than Heatkiller 4 pro
Also prior 4.8 on lapped sig demo

76f degrees ambient
32c water about the same as before nt-h1


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> Just for fun
> Ran CB and Blender at 4.9 1.250 Vcore. Tried backing off to 1.240 and CB ran bit score dropped. Locked up on blender.
> Temps went up of course going from Vcore ot 1.220 10 1.250 but topped out at 87C 10C spread on CB and 86 11 C spread on blender.


Get an autoclick mouse app and run it in a loop i had one that's by timer and everything.. Play with the input "lowering it" till it start phantom throttling "scoring less" then raise it a notch. If you use more vcore and your points go down you need to raise the input... Cb is good to narrow phantom throttling problems .. Then after that you will be in the verge of input voltage. You will see getting triggered in hwinfo pmmax "you can notch it up a bit more if you want" but it will not phantom throttling regardless of the in/out triggers that reports in my case it will trigger it when theres a recess from 100% and drops down the load then back up to 100% like in rog bench for example. This way your package watts and input would be the lowest possible without loosing performance.

You can loop cb any of them as longs as you want as a stress test with the mouse auto click app . if im not mistaken the paid version let you loop it tho..


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Optimus WC said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> I try that already, i just want the 100% flat base with the fins so i can swap back and forth according to my/the needs at hand.... when he in a sarcastic way "recommended me to buy a second block" because the results vs the 380 were so close in favor of the 380 block... Then explained the flat block is entirely different... Funny tho the 380 suffer from the same fate still performed better xD.
> 
> Yeah sir, like money grows into trees. Didnt you remember i pm you to see if i can stop by your shop if you had one so i can buy a bare block without fancy stuff or the packaging so i can save a couple bucks? I wasnt asking you for free stuff. Well after the sarcastic comment towards me "also to trash comments" yeah i asked for a demo piece of course.. I still up for a flat piece i dont want to buy the whole thing... But you know all of us are so priviliged that we can buy 2 $200 bucks cpu blocks just because this is overclock.net where nobody has the "stuff" to say it how it is... Because well no free stuff, demo or wathever in between or just defending the purchase well NOT ME!!!. Ala gigabyte in my case. Or you know everybody have the awesome gig that makes alot of cha ching to spent in the hobby..
> 
> So i ended buying on ppcs because the pm was ignored..... Yes sir buy local they tell you...Support your local businesses xD...
> 
> 
> 
> So I'll be in Chicago this coming week (I travel around), and I'll get ya swapped out for a flat block (possibly a demo unit). Also, with the whole flat vs normal issues, we've tried to be really accommodating to the guys with lapped blocks who got the wrong one. Really, that's our fault for lack of clarity. You bought the Sig, we'll take care of you /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> We're also reevaluating the whole flat block concept, because it's been so confusing and such a mess. And there's just no way to stock basically double of every block going forward - a normal version and flat version of everything. It would be madness (it's already getting that way).
> 
> Honestly, Intel and AMD need to make flat IHS from the beginning. Or just bare die, skip the IHS entirely. It works for GPUs.
> 
> Maybe start a no-IHS movement??
Click to expand...

I will answer to pm give me some time i got the new board and im going to swap it today hopefully i just wanted to have it boot and running..

Im still kind of iffy on the bare die dilemma as its kind of hard to have a perfect sit i have tried with lots of cpus before. I only managed to get a perfect sit on a 4790k with an AiO which i used screws with nuts to sit it by eye but thats only 4 cores to keep an eye for... If you watching to have the lowest temp spread on the cores this would become a issue. You saw my results on the 7940x i spread core 0 and core 14 backwards as hottest and coldest and vice versa... Best result i had was core14 been the hottest .... So the die itself would need to be also 100% flat as well which is not. Mounts and cpu blocks as well. But i will give it another go with the 100% flat base i mean my ice bare die mount its as 100% flat modded as it comes...


@EVGAjacob "cant remember the right nickname here" sir this its a damn well crafted fine motherboard i messed the first one by accident "coffee spills" and i had to buy the same one again as much as i love the experience on it its one of my favorite matx boards i ever had it can handle a 7980xe without a sweat... im surprised its not that popular around here... Its perfect for the allocation of pci lanes and everything xD nice vrms / cooling too as well..


----------



## KCDC

Looking quite nice in there, re-plumbed a few things to keep it rightside-up. Getting lower idles than before with the corsair hydro-x and can push more cores to 48 without going over 86c anymore. They sit around 83c now on full realbench load, which is nice. Wasn't expecting anything drastic, but it is an improvement from what I was using. I think switching the gpus to parallel helped my flow a bit, so can't say this is all from the cpu block. Plus it just looks really nice in there.


----------



## J7SC

KCDC said:


> Looking quite nice in there, re-plumbed a few things to keep it rightside-up. Getting lower idles than before with the corsair hydro-x and can push more cores to 48 without going over 86c anymore. They sit around 83c now on full realbench load, which is nice. Wasn't expecting anything drastic, but it is an improvement from what I was using. I think switching the gpus to parallel helped my flow a bit, so can't say this is all from the cpu block.* Plus it just looks really nice in there*.


 
...it certainly does. I'm a sucker for electric blue, and am also certainly not adverse to the 2x Aorus 2080 Ti WB cards, either  Nice !


----------



## zGunBLADEz

This is goofy logo to the left side kind of interesting results im seeing here... I will update the info when this blender run finish and do the graphs....


----------



## KCDC

J7SC said:


> ...it certainly does. I'm a sucker for electric blue, and am also certainly not adverse to the 2x Aorus 2080 Ti WB cards, either  Nice !



Yeah, man, been putting them to work lately gpu rendering visuals for my side hustle. Really wish particle/fluid simming was more reliable on GPUs, but still have to rely on old fashioned CPU cores for that, so getting as many hz as possible helps. wish this 9900x could do these freqs at lower voltages, but I never seem to get those golden chips.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

so this is so far, you cant say i have mounting problems all temps are similar to some aspect even 3-4 days later still spot on...

try v2 in all 4 positions my mounting is spot on everytime you can see the temps are quite similar between all of them the only difference is the position of the block..

So far goofy with the logo to the left in my case is the best spread achieving the best cold cores while having 6-8 cores, so like i said previously at this point is a contact issue between the block itself and the rockit ihs so hoping a 100% base will narrow all that...



in the evga board it have better vrms and also run cooler vrms so less socket power draw by some 50w i can do 46x no avx divider with 1.16mV but put it at 46x @ 1.185mV no avx divider for testing purposes.. in the asrock i have 45x -1 avx @ 1.185mV.. if you look at the core spread im getting thats another notch in a 8-10 core overclock over the main multi so the temps narrow will post on that too XD


----------



## KCDC

@Optimus WC I remember mention a while back of y'all providing your own version of unlabeled edpm tubing. Is this still part of your upcoming products? If so, will it be 10/16 only?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ladies and gentlemen this is how you overclock on a hedt chip XD

Also, this is the cure for @trashzone issues with the core spread of 10c

this is my 7980xe as following

core 0 & 8 are the coldest ones so i dont count them to measure core temp spread you never do you will go crazy as @trashzone

so the temp spread between the rest of my 16 cores from the coldest which is "look at this" core 1/6/9/10 & 17 is 68 tops vs the hottest core 12 at 73c is a 5c spread between 16 cores


the overclock and the spread was achieved using features that you pay for on a hedt system.. still can tweak more im still binning this puppy anyway

i wasnt using avx divider btw

49x @ 8 cores this includes both coldest cores lol
48x @ 3 cores
46x @ 7 cores

use also intel TBMT 3.0 to affinity by diversity for max performance 

highest peak on test 5 which is the highest power draw off all is 430w avg in that test was 420w out of the socket this is by no means a weak test like an aida with only cpu check and no fpu lol

rog bench which i recommend for stress testing for 24/7 overclocks will use less power draw by the way.. blender will use the most in the apps we use to test overclocks... dont bother p95 this cpus you will not achieve much doing so..

also i added a 20 run loop spread on cb20 highest peak was shy of 400w

this is by no mean suicide overclocks


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> ladies and gentlemen this is how you overclock on a hedt chip XD
> 
> Also, this is the cure for @trashzone issues with the core spread of 10c
> 
> this is my 7980xe as following
> 
> core 0 & 8 are the coldest ones so i dont count them to measure core temp spread you never do you will go crazy as @trashzone
> 
> so the temp spread between the rest of my 16 cores from the coldest which is "look at this" core 1/6/9/10 & 17 is 68 tops vs the hottest core 12 at 73c is a 5c spread between 16 cores
> 
> 
> the overclock and the spread was achieved using features that you pay for on a hedt system.. still can tweak more im still binning this puppy anyway
> 
> i wasnt using avx divider btw
> 
> 49x @ 8 cores this includes both coldest cores lol
> 48x @ 3 cores
> 46x @ 7 cores
> 
> use also intel TBMT 3.0 to affinity by diversity for max performance
> 
> highest peak on test 5 which is the highest power draw off all is 430w avg in that test was 420w out of the socket this is by no means a weak test like an aida with only cpu check and no fpu lol
> 
> rog bench which i recommend for stress testing for 24/7 overclocks will use less power draw by the way.. blender will use the most in the apps we use to test overclocks... dont bother p95 this cpus you will not achieve much doing so..
> 
> also i added a 20 run loop spread on cb20 highest peak was shy of 400w
> 
> this is by no mean suicide overclocks


This is fine for the HWbot submission of by the core. Its a preference choice. Me, Im all or none person. All my cores run at the same speed. Im sure I could jack at least to if not past 5GHZ for 24x7 then crank back on the weaker cores and end with all of them within a 2C at full load but thats not testing the block now is it? That's testing my patience of compensation by redirection. You dont have to use an AVX offest that will drop your clocks back automatically for an AVX work load when they are already running 300MHz slower on half of them out of the gate. Great for getting what you want but not at all the point of closing the gap of the core temp spread. with the CPU block,We could dial them all back on every system, not just HEDT to use only one core and slap a block of wet bologna up there. Thanks for the clarification so the rest of us didnt think we had issues chasing a pipe dream. For me back to 4.8-4.9 all cores or bust!


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> This is fine for the HWbot submission of by the core. Its a preference choice. Me, Im all or none person. All my cores run at the same speed. Im sure I could jack at least to if not past 5GHZ for 24x7 then crank back on the weaker cores and end with all of them within a 2C at full load but thats *not testing the block* now is it? That's testing my patience of compensation by redirection. You dont have to use an AVX offest that will drop your clocks back automatically for an AVX work load when they are already running 300MHz slower on half of them out of the gate. Great for getting what you want but not at all the point of closing the gap of the core temp spread. with the CPU block,We could dial them all back on every system, not just HEDT to use only one core and slap a block of wet bologna up there. Thanks for the clarification so the rest of us didnt think we had issues chasing a pipe dream. For me back to 4.8-4.9 all cores or bust!


thats already been posted my friend.... im in some way like jpmboy i never seen him posting results for recommendations that goes above whats safe for example like 2x tdp etc rule...

like this test i just did 2x the tdp of the chip

8x @ 47x
10x @ 46x

no avx divider involved clean power input no throttle 1.16mV vcore

*anyway, i put tests of sustained 420w avg out of the socket if that "BY ITSELF" its not testing the block i dont know what to tell you*
my comment was directed for people to narrow the temp spread itself i care less if the spread is by 15c-20c i will manage it


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> ladies and gentlemen this is how you overclock on a hedt chip XD
> 
> Also, this is the cure for @trashzone issues with the core spread of 10c
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> this is my 7980xe as following
> 
> core 0 & 8 are the coldest ones so i dont count them to measure core temp spread you never do you will go crazy as @trashzone
> 
> so the temp spread between the rest of my 16 cores from the coldest which is "look at this" core 1/6/9/10 & 17 is 68 tops vs the hottest core 12 at 73c is a 5c spread between 16 cores
> 
> 
> the overclock and the spread was achieved using features that you pay for on a hedt system.. still can tweak more im still binning this puppy anyway
> 
> i wasnt using avx divider btw
> 
> 49x @ 8 cores this includes both coldest cores lol
> 48x @ 3 cores
> 46x @ 7 cores
> 
> use also intel TBMT 3.0 to affinity by diversity for max performance
> 
> highest peak on test 5 which is the highest power draw off all is 430w avg in that test was 420w out of the socket this is by no means a weak test like an aida with only cpu check and no fpu lol
> 
> rog bench which i recommend for stress testing for 24/7 overclocks will use less power draw by the way.. blender will use the most in the apps we use to test overclocks... dont bother p95 this cpus you will not achieve much doing so..
> 
> also i added a 20 run loop spread on cb20 highest peak was shy of 400w
> 
> this is by no mean suicide overclocks


Hi,
I don't see within 10c core spread as a problem and that alone has been pretty easy to do on all my mounts on this rma'ed new 9940x I've had for just a couple of months now.

That is how you oc on delid with liquid metal when you have bad liquid metal contact or water block contact issues or both showing more than 10c core spread

I don't mind treating cores differently but atm I'm just doing all core because (by specific core) is just the final measure to maximize cores maybe later but I've been there and done that 

My 7900x delid was also within 10c core spread on a ek evo goofy mount back when I had it.

Not even sure Jp uses by specific core anymore his core spread was within 10c too so all core it is


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I don't see within 10c core spread as a problem and that alone has been pretty easy to do on all my mounts on this rma'ed new 9940x I've had for just a couple of months now.
> 
> That is how you oc on delid with liquid metal when you have bad liquid metal contact or water block contact issues or both showing more than 10c core spread
> 
> I don't mind treating cores differently but atm I'm just doing all core because (by specific core) is just the final measure to maximize cores maybe later but I've been there and done that
> 
> My 7900x delid was also within 10c core spread on a ek evo goofy mount back when I had it.
> 
> Not even sure Jp uses by specific core anymore his core spread was within 10c too so all core it is


he uses avx dividers tho and vdroop in top of it on the input... less power

you measure numbers the margin of all core vs by core is within what 3% on whole numbers.. if we were benching perse it would not be an issue.. I mean i highly doubt we are in the same page here..

since the beginning of my tests all of them are 24/7 test im not suicide benching here ..

if i want the desired 50x i already have a power table for that, that im using since ryzen that goes with the 50x per core without HT for "gaming" purposes without braking the 400w socket power draw barrier on a 24/7 USABLE overclock
now at that vcore with ht on uffff the package would shoot even in MY COOLING solution so good luck to you my friend not even this block and a chiller would save you in a sustained power draw like the ones im posting


this is in a "bysky china block in a hotter day as well" very 24/7 usable but im not posting it here till now XD ask me if im throwing a fit because of the spread thats even before i fixed the lm application i got it when i bought it.. XD


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Again not sure Jp is now 
Even his new foundation got him within 10c core spread so he can blast all core 4.8 without issue on his 10980xe highest clocks he felt 24/ 7 was good temp wise/ performance 
Otherwise he was in your boat 16c spread on his 380i 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-19.html#post28262876

Last bionic I saw he was all core.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Again not sure Jp is now
> Even his new foundation got him within 10c core spread so he can blast all core 4.8 without issue on his 10980xe highest clocks he felt 24/ 7 was good temp wise/ performance
> Otherwise he was in your boat 16c spread on his 380i
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-19.html#post28262876
> 
> Last bionic I saw he was all core.


if you read jpm comments he will tell you whats needed for boinc etc its not the same he have it set borderline and he knows exactly whats needed for what and specially for boinc..

in the hwinfo theres no package power out of the socket so its hard to tell what hes using i will put that cpu sucking like 320w out of the socket as it is just looking at the voltage and multi


edit
i saw it cpu current 228amps @ 1.64mV input because of vdroop its like 360w ish close enough XD


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Already did 1.27v for 4.8 to do bionic.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Already did 1.27v for 4.8 to do bionic.


 @Jpmboy quote
49 AVX-4, VCCIN 1.7. Manual vcore 1.27. Temps shown.

-4 avx 
vccin 1.7


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
This one too
https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-28.html#post28273760


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> This one too
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/5-i...9-10980xe-5-ghz-18-cores-28.html#post28273760


like i said

@Jpmboy quote
Since you mentioned Boinc, I'm now running it at 4.7 with 1.2V. 4.8 had too many "excursions" in the 400W range (on the cpu... >2x TDP which is my preferred 24/7 power ceiling). Voltages are pretty well tuned at this point. Still, running 300W continuous, mostly overnight runs:

if you see the siv its states there power package 320w+ for an average in reality 310w

watts are watts no matter how you look at them


1.5mV load 300w
1.2mV load 300w

package power is the same, so same cooling is required regardless of voltage what change is the application/instructions usage, voltage by itself dont dictate the power draw.

thats why blender sucks more watts than cb20 and thats why aida stress test only cpu cant be compared to "OUR" tests its only sucking 2/4th the power and fpu ticked on this cpus is a test with AVX512 instructions


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I don't believe Jp does summons unless it's from a court


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I don't believe Jp does summons unless it's from a court


im not calling him im quoting him

you the one that keeps bringing him like i dont know what he has said previously...

it just validates what im saying over an over


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
That little @ in front of user name is a summons :doh:


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> That little @ in front of user name is a summons :doh:


its easier for me to quote it like that instead of [][/] if he wants to chime in thats on him.. so its clear

i know whats @ for been here longer than you XD


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Okay then we're done now :thumb:


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
76f degrees 
4.9


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 76f degrees
> 4.9


Hi as well dont know what voltage you used so i just throw 1.30mV 49x no avx divider

Swapped the block to his regular position with the logo down and brought a heater when im at so i can warm up and raise the temp to a more like hot day with 75f with an ac lol


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
File name says what voltage 1.3v.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

this is as far as i will push this puppy 

49x no avx divider ht is on @ 1.32mV @ 1.78mV input he was asking for more input (you will see the power spikes) but nope nope nope my psu out of the wall was already pulling @ 830watts out of the 850w rated seasonic gold x i use for open bench..

the peak was 511w out of the socket im not ln2 benching lol i do not recommend this huge draws like that out of the socket...


classrom and pavillion tests only highest drawers


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
VCCIN I use 1.95v/ llc-6/ cpu +200% yes adds some heat but also some benchmark grunt I almost got your 7980xe on my realbench score


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> VCCIN I use 1.95v/ llc-6/ cpu +200% yes adds some heat but also some benchmark grunt I almost got your 7980xe on my realbench score


I stomped a mud hole that on Those RB scores. I’ll post one up in a bit. Usually get 340,000 ish


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
2080ti SLI I wouldn't doubt it
Problem is if you didn't so called stomp the hell out of the scores :doh:


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> VCCIN I use 1.95v/ llc-6/ cpu +200% yes adds some heat but also some benchmark grunt I almost got your 7980xe on my realbench score


because of opencl im using a 580 gpu XD

this is how i see it number wise and realistic speaking not with benching head purposes because somebody says all of nothing right...

49x all cores @ 1.32mV vs 10 cores @ 47x and 8 @ 46x @ 1.16mV
CB20 = 11245 vs 10852 = 3.5% difference 
CB15 = 4769 vs 4627 = 3% differnce

thermals???

look at it yourself hottest cores 66 vs 86 = 30% increase for a mere 3% of more unseen performnce in a 24/7 overclock...


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I wouldn't worry about it Justin doesn't believe in reading others system spec's lol it's too tough on him


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> I stomped a mud hole that on Those RB scores. I’ll post one up in a bit. Usually get 340,000 ish


do you? you guys miss the gpu info lol

anyway before you get your pantys in a bunch

CB20 score cough no HT


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nope you're too lazy to even fill in system spec's as simple text on your sig or use rig builder... :kookoo:

Hell you just finally learned how to take screen shots :applaud:


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nope you're too lazy to even fill in system spec's as simple text on your sig or use rig builder... :kookoo:


what for??? i want to fill system specs im not asking for help lol

did you have seen i have put tests here with a 8700k/7940x and a 7980xe alone?>


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nope I can't be bothered.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nope I can't be bothered.


yes i know main reason with the OCDs XD


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I can't be bothered is one of your sayings not surprised you didn't catch that you used that a few times for not doing benchmark subs on ocn :lachen:


----------



## zGunBLADEz

yeah Hi, my sayings ok... your persona sometimes confuses me Hi again XD


----------



## agentdark45

Optimus WC said:


> So good news! We've finished up the final tweaks on the block. We took extra time to nail a few little things down because we think it was worth getting everything 100% right. So now it's all hands on deck getting these blocks out the door!! Depending on a few things (like anodizing), we'll be shipping soon, hard to give an exact time but will keep posting updates as we crank out the blocks.
> 
> Performance is looking excellent, of course results will vary depending on what you're comparing it to, how hard you're pushing your CPUs and cooling solutions. Definitely the best block on the market . We've gotten awesome OC numbers and it's going to be really useful for people pushing 32 and 64 cores to the max. Threadripper is a really strange CPU (from a water block design perspective). The IHS is like a ripple in a pond, so getting perfect contact has been tricky. But we've worked really hard to make sure our block contact and spread is insanely good. See the pics, ignore the sloppy drip and the prototyping screw holes



Noice! I can't wait to finally get my 3970x under water and do some serious OC'ing.

Couple of quick questions:

1. What is the best TIM application method for the threadrippers in your experience? I see a lot of people having great success with the Noctua method (big dots + small dots of paste). Will be using their NT-H2 paste.
2. Re shipping, I'm in the UK and pre-ordered back in December (along with the reservoir and pump), will I get tracking details emailed to me?


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> do you? you guys miss the gpu info lol
> 
> anyway before you get your pantys in a bunch
> 
> CB20 score cough no HT


Yes, stomped a BIG MUDHOLE in it, SEVERE SPANKING!!, You got me by a few hundred on CB with 4 more cores. Id be ashamed. This was about heat though and how well the Optimus does or doesn't work. All of my runs done with a ton of other stuff running in background so I can generate heat from real loads instead of P9 CPU toaster oven software. 
Ive broken 9000 on CB when that was the objective. Its buried somewhere in the CB20 thread. I peaked it then moved on to other things. Right now its about making heat and will the Optimus handle it better.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I wouldn't worry about it Justin doesn't believe in reading others system spec's lol it's too tough on him


Reading what specs, Only 3 people posting in here and I already know what you run and the other hasn't filled it in.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Only thing I need help with from you yankee's is sending down some more cold air ground hog is basting in the sun 

Heatkiller 4 pro going back in to see what it can do at 4.8 and 4.9 yeah right never going to happen at 4.9 
Using it's stock mounting hardware too still goofy mount I'm not wasting time rotating it the same was optimus mounts it's just too freaking ugly 
Probably wait till tomorrow morning it will be cooler ambient then....


----------



## skupples

children, children... 

does rig builder even work again, yet? IE: if you had one, you were fine, but making a new one = no.


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> children, children...
> 
> does rig builder even work again, yet? IE: if you had one, you were fine, but making a new one = no.


Yeah rig builder is working. Has been for awhile, I deleted two other rigs as whats the point, they are still running but other people using them. I added my current rig some time ago and just updated it a little while ago. 

@ThrashZone I live in NJ for the time being but very much NOT A YANKEE. Had to follow the $$ flow after NAFTA shut down the southern industry. Was in industrial automation and robotics before it was all disassembled and moved to Mexico beginning the day after NAFTA was signed. No more customers and I wasn't going to work in the hospitality industry for chump change which is about all that is left. Ill be moving back south when Im done working in about 5 years or so.

Please do post up what you get from HK


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> children, children...
> 
> does rig builder even work again, yet? IE: if you had one, you were fine, but making a new one = no.


Hi,
Heck I even have my vape rig on there dude


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Heck I even have my vape rig on there dude


LMAO


----------



## Optimus WC

agentdark45 said:


> Noice! I can't wait to finally get my 3970x under water and do some serious OC'ing.
> 
> Couple of quick questions:
> 
> 1. What is the best TIM application method for the threadrippers in your experience? I see a lot of people having great success with the Noctua method (big dots + small dots of paste). Will be using their NT-H2 paste.
> 2. Re shipping, I'm in the UK and pre-ordered back in December (along with the reservoir and pump), will I get tracking details emailed to me?


The best method is the full paste method. Go as thin as possible. We've been using KPX now and believe it's the absolute best paste for our blocks. It spreads super thin and works very well for high contact blocks (like ours). With the full spread method, you're able to get an even spread with no extra blob spots that can ultimately lower performance. At the same time, doing any blobs with good contact will result in a perfect spread  

For tracking, you'll get an auto email with tracking as soon as it ships.


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Heck I even have my vape rig on there dude


yeah, as full on proof of how much of a cracky you are. lol.

i <3 u


----------



## keeph8n

KPX is good paste


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> do you? you guys miss the gpu info lol
> 
> anyway before you get your pantys in a bunch
> 
> CB20 score cough no HT
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, stomped a BIG MUDHOLE in it, SEVERE SPANKING!!, You got me by a few hundred on CB with 4 more cores. Id be ashamed. This was about heat though and how well the Optimus does or doesn't work. All of my runs done with a ton of other stuff running in background so I can generate heat from real loads instead of P9 CPU toaster oven software.
> Ive broken 9000 on CB when that was the objective. Its buried somewhere in the CB20 thread. I peaked it then moved on to other things. Right now its about making heat and will the Optimus handle it better.
Click to expand...

Why i would be ashamed? You got your pantys in a bunch with scores without reading the info miss the whole point on my tests i guess ... Errmmmm i got 9k+ without HT on cb20 but well you stomped a miserable AMD 580 GPU WITH 2X SAY IT AGAIN 2080TIS .....
Capt obvious.... 

XD

So i have you flexing 2x2080tis against a amd 580 gpu and the other one with ocds complaining about my pictures, how i post here or how to use a forum that i been using longer than him or the new one trying to make me do a rig signature of a open bench rig that its constantly changing.. Ok sure pal xD...

The tests show exactly whats needed to be shown what cpu and his settings "overclock" whats the REAL power draw out of the socket what application was used plus hwinfo/core temp for temps thats all you need to know for the topic at hand..

Now, in here alone i have put more tests with different cpus, tests, payloads and power draws. As a matter of fact THE HIGHEST usuable power draw this block as seen to date in any test here or that i had seen.
So all my tests stills revolve around the block and his performance. 

So again, why i would feel ashamed ?


----------



## skupples

Blade, ol' buddy ol' pall. 

someone's gonna call you a shill soon, simply cuz y'all both in chicago.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

skupples said:


> Blade, ol' buddy ol' pall.
> 
> someone's gonna call you a shill soon, simply cuz y'all both in chicago. /forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif


I hope so bcuz i need to shill this monster all right i got my modified server psu platinum out to feed more watts to him

so @OptimusWC i did pm you btw


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> Why i would be ashamed? You got your pantys in a bunch with scores without reading the info miss the whole point on my tests i guess ... Errmmmm i got 9k+ without HT on cb20 but well you stomped a miserable AMD 580 GPU WITH 2X SAY IT AGAIN 2080TIS .....
> Capt obvious....
> 
> XD
> 
> So i have you flexing 2x2080tis against a amd 580 gpu and the other one with ocds complaining about my pictures, how i post here or how to use a forum that i been using longer than him or the new one trying to make me do a rig signature of a open bench rig that its constantly changing.. Ok sure pal xD...
> 
> The tests show exactly whats needed to be shown what cpu and his settings "overclock" whats the REAL power draw out of the socket what application was used plus hwinfo/core temp for temps thats all you need to know for the topic at hand..
> 
> Now, in here alone i have put more tests with different cpus, tests, payloads and power draws. As a matter of fact THE HIGHEST usuable power draw this block as seen to date in any test here or that i had seen.
> So all my tests stills revolve around the block and his performance.
> 
> So again, why i would feel ashamed ?


I think you are missing the entire point of this thread brother. Im seeing what you are posting, by the core overclocks to minimize heat and even the spread when we are looking for all core OC to push the heat and see if the Optimus removes it. At least thats what the thread started out as but over the lasts several pages have turned to by the Core OC with 4 more cores either barely topping two others with 14 cores or outright losing. All mine are non optimized with a multitude of things running in the background and all core OC. I can dial back to meet the short comings of any block, even an air block with no fan on it. Crank them all up to whatever you are stable at and lets see that instead to be more on point with what the thread is about. We got off on a tangent here.Id like to see what you get with all cores cranked and what that spread is like. There are plenty of other threads about OC and how to have more than half of your cores limited to get the most of a few. If thats your pupose then thats OK, Im an all or none. If I get a chip where I have to do by the core OC and run half of them down I just dont see the point and its RMA time. My point of view anyhow. Can you hit 5.1 GHZ on 14 of the 18 and keep it under 80 with a 22C ambient?

https://valid.x86.fr/t1uhep




zGunBLADEz said:


> I hope so bcuz i need to shill this monster all right i got my modified server psu platinum out to feed more watts to him
> 
> so @OptimusWC i did pm you btw


Please do keep pumping the watts! Let get them involved to see if improvements can be made. We have become their best freee R&D dept.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Why i would be ashamed? You got your pantys in a bunch with scores without reading the info miss the whole point on my tests i guess ... Errmmmm i got 9k+ without HT on cb20 but well you stomped a miserable AMD 580 GPU WITH 2X SAY IT AGAIN 2080TIS .....
> Capt obvious....
> 
> XD
> 
> So i have you flexing 2x2080tis against a amd 580 gpu and the other one with ocds complaining about my pictures, how i post here or how to use a forum that i been using longer than him or the new one trying to make me do a rig signature of a open bench rig that its constantly changing.. Ok sure pal xD...
> 
> The tests show exactly whats needed to be shown what cpu and his settings "overclock" whats the REAL power draw out of the socket what application was used plus hwinfo/core temp for temps thats all you need to know for the topic at hand..
> 
> Now, in here alone i have put more tests with different cpus, tests, payloads and power draws. As a matter of fact THE HIGHEST usuable power draw this block as seen to date in any test here or that i had seen.
> So all my tests stills revolve around the block and his performance.
> 
> So again, why i would feel ashamed ?
> 
> 
> 
> I think you are missing the entire point of this thread brother. Im seeing what you are posting, by the core overclocks to minimize heat and even the spread when we are looking for all core OC to push the heat and see if the Optimus removes it. At least thats what the thread started out as but over the lasts several pages have turned to by the Core OC with 4 more cores either barely topping two others with 14 cores or outright losing. All mine are non optimized with a multitude of things running in the background and all core OC. I can dial back to meet the short comings of any block, even an air block with no fan on it. Crank them all up to whatever you are stable at and lets see that instead to be more on point with what the thread is about. We got off on a tangent here.Id like to see what you get with all cores cranked and what that spread is like. There are plenty of other threads about OC and how to have more than half of your cores limited to get the most of a few. If thats your pupose then thats OK, Im an all or none. If I get a chip where I have to do by the core OC and run half of them down I just dont see the point and its RMA time. My point of view anyhow. Can you hit 5.1 GHZ on 14 of the 18 and keep it under 80 with a 22C ambient?
> 
> https://valid.x86.fr/t1uhep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> I hope so bcuz i need to shill this monster all right i got my modified server psu platinum out to feed more watts to him
> 
> so @OptimusWC i did pm you btw
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Please do keep pumping the watts! Let get them involved to see if improvements can be made. We have become their best freee R&D dept.
Click to expand...

Im trying to be all around the package watts out of the socket not an overclock course but i try too to post helpful info for the lurkers still its 90% related to the cooling potential.. I for example do not need 1.32mV for 49x but measure what i have in hand crank it there so i can suck the most wattage i can out of a sustained load like blender...

I can do 50x on all 18 cores without using an avx offset but my tests are aimed for and "sustained" loads not for benching purposes or sporadic bursts in tests like cb or rog benchmark "not stress test".... As a matter of fact i find *quite bad and also high* a cb run and you already hitting 80-90c in a so sporadic tests its not even sustained so there you have it. Thats why i loop cb if i have the need to use it i couldnt care less about the score i want to see the spikes from 0-100 on the cores and adaptive reaction to it from idle state to full load thats why i use cb for stress testing. But it has to be looped is also good to dial your input xD

None of my tests shown here shown so far are suicide they are sustained tests and stable 100% all the way. So my tests reflect your day to day 24/7 usage on different power draws "sustained" not sporadic placebos hitting 90c xD with big socket power draws over 400w+ sustained out of the socket over and over again as shown.... Which its not recommended in the long run. Glad i never posted thr P3 they would say im hitting 700-800w and the block is performing AWESOME.... lol well no and no after the psu and vrms its what really matters for cooling purposes.. 

This is not a topic to put what temps i get on a suicide run.. Or when i decide to open the window on a -20c cold day in chicago or a hot day on my chiller.. I take my cold day in chicago anytime btw its much much better than a chiller 110% lol


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Just like artificial sweeteners people love artificial chillers too nature or electric and results they will never achieve without one or the other.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Just like artificial sweeteners people love artificial chillers too nature or electric and results they will never achieve without one or the other.


Hi sir, yeah artificial xD i bet you would not say the same on a 0 degree day with windchills hitting you in the face feeling like -10 --25F xD.. Still get better temps than you to grab your sarcastic tone xD


----------



## MNKyDeth

Just ordered mine a few hours ago. Looking forward to see how it performs against my current block. Swiftech SFK heirloom.


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Just like artificial sweeteners people love artificial chillers too nature or electric and results they will never achieve without one or the other.


kinda hard to call it artificial when its one of the few benefits of winter. Cracking the window, & cooling down the office. ice fishing, snow mobiles.... hmm... garage parties, beginning/end of winter bonfires. 

"realistic" is whatever ambient is at the time.

chiller is also fine, if you aren't omitting the fact it exists from your results. it would be nice if there were simple chiller solutions for shaving 5-10c. seems they all have extreme issues and are either COOOOOOOOOOOOOLD or off. Never gonna catch me trying to run a chiller as a Floridian. Maybe if i was in the desert.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

skupples said:


> ThrashZone said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Just like artificial sweeteners people love artificial chillers too nature or electric and results they will never achieve without one or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> kinda hard to call it artificial when its one of the few benefits of winter. Cracking the window, & cooling down the office. ice fishing, snow mobiles.... hmm... garage parties, beginning/end of winter bonfires.
> 
> "realistic" is whatever ambient is at the time.
> 
> chiller is also fine, if you aren't omitting the fact it exists from your results. it would be nice if there were simple chiller solutions for shaving 5-10c. seems they all have extreme issues and are either COOOOOOOOOOOOOLD or off. Never gonna catch me trying to run a chiller as a Floridian. Maybe if i was in the desert.
Click to expand...

This...

I was born and raised in Puerto Rico live there for 26 yrs before moving to here... 85-90f almost all year around didnt have mother nature where i can roll my MoRa3 to the window have my 1080Tis fully loaded at less than 10-15c with not so much effort or without intricate setups... Or just pop up the window open a bit Its already low 60s inside as it is with no heater on for a good 5-6 months so artificial tho.. XD

Another reason i try to keep tests in margin because other people are not in the same places.

In florida wouldn't work out to well for you btw its too humid.. For a 24/7 setup with dewpoint In mind with chiller your water temp would be so close to ambient its not worth it the expense in electrical for example..

Same here in the cold months dewpoint is very close to ambient. Its better just roll the radiator to the window and walla.

In my main loop my water temp never goes 3c+ over ambient even in a 95f day yeah we get those in here in chicago too.


----------



## blitzkrieg666

Hi all!
Just getting to fix my AMD foundation block and realised the original backplate of the Aorus X570 Master isnt compatible with the mounts.
So am I doing the right thing to use the included plastic washers sandwich in-between the motherboard PCB? Wouldn't it flex without the backplate under screw tension?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

blitzkrieg666 said:


> Hi all!
> Just getting to fix my AMD foundation block and realised the original backplate of the Aorus X570 Master isnt compatible with the mounts.
> So am I doing the right thing to use the included plastic washers sandwich in-between the motherboard PCB? Wouldn't it flex without the backplate under screw tension?


 i wouldn't do that ... You dont have screws with nuts at hand that fit thru the regular amd backplate? Just for the now.. Or you can hack the backplate and get one on ebay later


----------



## JustinThyme

blitzkrieg666 said:


> Hi all!
> Just getting to fix my AMD foundation block and realised the original backplate of the Aorus X570 Master isnt compatible with the mounts.
> So am I doing the right thing to use the included plastic washers sandwich in-between the motherboard PCB? Wouldn't it flex without the backplate under screw tension?


Should have come sith a simple instruction set but no the only thing that might be between that backplate and the board is maybe a rubber insulator. Studs through board then nut to suds on backside.

heres whats on their site for that, I have the easy one...2066

Id check with @Optimus WC




https://i.shgcdn.com/2fcdb538-29db-...t/auto/-/preview/3000x3000/-/quality/lighter/


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> Im trying to be all around the package watts out of the socket not an overclock course but i try too to post helpful info for the lurkers still its 90% related to the cooling potential.. I for example do not need 1.32mV for 49x but measure what i have in hand crank it there so i can suck the most wattage i can out of a sustained load like blender...
> 
> I can do 50x on all 18 cores without using an avx offset but my tests are aimed for and "sustained" loads not for benching purposes or sporadic bursts in tests like cb or rog benchmark "not stress test".... As a matter of fact i find *quite bad and also high* a cb run and you already hitting 80-90c in a so sporadic tests its not even sustained so there you have it. Thats why i loop cb if i have the need to use it i couldnt care less about the score i want to see the spikes from 0-100 on the cores and adaptive reaction to it from idle state to full load thats why i use cb for stress testing. But it has to be looped is also good to dial your input xD
> 
> None of my tests shown here shown so far are suicide they are sustained tests and stable 100% all the way. So my tests reflect your day to day 24/7 usage on different power draws "sustained" not sporadic placebos hitting 90c xD with big socket power draws over 400w+ sustained out of the socket over and over again as shown.... Which its not recommended in the long run. Glad i never posted thr P3 they would say im hitting 700-800w and the block is performing AWESOME.... lol well no and no after the psu and vrms its what really matters for cooling purposes..
> 
> This is not a topic to put what temps i get on a suicide run.. Or when i decide to open the window on a -20c cold day in chicago or a hot day on my chiller.. I take my cold day in chicago anytime btw its much much better than a chiller 110% lol


My runs of RB in endless loop stress tests is about what Ive found to one of the better loads, Im just going to chalk this one off as a communication barrier. I dont run mine past what Im satisfied with either which is 4.8 all cores and it will crank that all day. Yeah short benches to see where it will go but we are still missing the point here, heat removal. OC thread are here by the thousands. If you have a built in chiller via window then use it to crank it more.


----------



## blitzkrieg666

zGunBLADEz said:


> i wouldn't do that ... You dont have screws with nuts at hand that fit thru the regular amd backplate? Just for the now.. Or you can hack the backplate and get one on ebay later


yea I have the screws that came with my Barrow block, but that needs the springs, defeats the simplicity purpose though.


----------



## blitzkrieg666

JustinThyme said:


> Should have come sith a simple instruction set but no the only thing that might be between that backplate and the board is maybe a rubber insulator. Studs through board then nut to suds on backside.
> 
> heres whats on their site for that, I have the easy one...2066
> 
> Id check with @Optimus WC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://i.shgcdn.com/2fcdb538-29db-...t/auto/-/preview/3000x3000/-/quality/lighter/


yup the instruction that came with it doesn't mention of any backplate. yes it comes with 8x plastic washers, which i guess should between pcb and screw, also not mentioned. 
what say you @Optimus WC?
https://i.shgcdn.com/2fcdb538-29db-...t/auto/-/preview/3000x3000/-/quality/lighter/


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> kinda hard to call it artificial when its one of the few benefits of winter. Cracking the window, & cooling down the office. ice fishing, snow mobiles.... hmm... garage parties, beginning/end of winter bonfires.
> 
> "realistic" is whatever ambient is at the time.
> 
> chiller is also fine, if you aren't omitting the fact it exists from your results. it would be nice if there were simple chiller solutions for shaving 5-10c. seems they all have extreme issues and are either COOOOOOOOOOOOOLD or off. Never gonna catch me trying to run a chiller as a Floridian. Maybe if i was in the desert.


Hi,
I call it artificial because cooling methods like cold climate or water chillers are rarely ever posted with results

Take advantage of which ever cooling option you have available but at least include that info in the results otherwise it's deceptive to other readers to just flop down stuff that aren't realistic without the cooling enhancements.

Only fishing is usually fishing for the truth 
If it seems too good to be true it usually is


----------



## zGunBLADEz

blitzkrieg666 said:


> yea I have the screws that came with my Barrow block, but that needs the springs, defeats the simplicity purpose though.


i know but sometimes we have to resolve quick XD i still stand on hacking the backplate to be honest




JustinThyme said:


> My runs of RB in endless loop stress tests is about what Ive found to one of the better loads, Im just going to chalk this one off as a communication barrier. I dont run mine past what Im satisfied with either which is 4.8 all cores and it will crank that all day. Yeah short benches to see where it will go but we are still missing the point here, heat removal. OC thread are here by the thousands. If you have a built in chiller via window then use it to crank it more.


yeah i agreed on the rog bench stress test for stability purposes..

well if you think a sustained load for heat removal of 400-500w out of the socket its not enough for testing the block for cooling potential i dont know what to tell you..

funny thing is i dont even had the rad in the window and my open bench is in the warmest part on my place around 65f steady XD

btw here i forgot yesterday was at work XD
https://valid.x86.fr/qclt5m
hint: bcuz it validates doesnt mean its near or even stable @ 51x specially @ 1.35mV

He validates too @ 52x
https://valid.x86.fr/qclt5m

will i run a sustained loaded on current conditions @ 1.42mV nope lol not even if its stable lol

it does a nice cb15 single score tho XD


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> well if you think a sustained load for heat removal of 400-500w out of the socket its not enough for testing the block for cooling potential i dont know what to tell you..
> 
> funny thing is i dont even had the rad in the window and my open bench is in the warmest part on my place around 65f steady XD
> 
> btw here i forgot yesterday was at work XD
> https://valid.x86.fr/qclt5m
> hint: bcuz it validates doesnt mean its near or even stable @ 51x specially @ 1.35mV



500W, is that all? 
Between the CPU and GPUs Im pegging a 1600W PSU, close to it anyhow. Had to upgrade UPS from .9 PF 1600vA to .9 PF 2200vA just I it dont go into overload. UPS logs showing 1495 Watts on UPS output putting .9 PF Closer to 1650 Watts from the wall But thats the UPS efficiency accounted for too so lave it at the 1495. Seeing how UPS is only rated for 1600 kept getting overload. 

Thats what I think we are both trying to say. Looking for average conditions 22-25C with CPU pushed hard, not tuning system back to make the block #s look cool and even. Great for you to have built in chiller but that doesnt tell us anything about the block performance. I dont know what else to say but hooray for you getting loaded temps that look like my Idle temps.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> 500W, is that all?
> Between the CPU and GPUs Im pegging a 1600W PSU, close to it anyhow. Had to upgrade UPS from .9 PF 1600vA to .9 PF 2200vA just I it dont go into overload. UPS logs showing 1495 Watts on UPS output putting .9 PF Closer to 1650 Watts from the wall But thats the UPS efficiency accounted for too so lave it at the 1495. Seeing how UPS is only rated for 1600 kept getting overload.
> 
> Thats what I think we are both trying to say. Looking for average conditions 22-25C with CPU pushed hard, not tuning system back to make the block #s look cool and even. Great for you to have built in chiller but that doesnt tell us anything about the block performance. I dont know what else to say but hooray for you getting loaded temps that look like my Idle temps.


again... when i mention 400w+ out of the socket ((out of the socket means the actual socket you place the cpu with the pins thats after PSU+VRMS)) do you realize im pulling 700w out of the wall by itself with a P3 reading??

you have to understand what you pulling out the wall ITS NOT the same your cpu is pulling OUT OF THE SOCKET..

i have the mobo/amd 580 which its not even on use for only display and the cpu..

the only thing been loaded is the cpu itself thats it.. so from wall thru psu and vrms actual watts out of the socket its less what a p3 would tell you thats why ITS IMPORTANT to say whats the actual socket draw which dictates the cooling potential.. because that is the actual watts you cooling, you are not cooling with the cpu block the vrms and the psu watts or whats been read on the p3 from the wall. YOUR CPU ITS NOT PULLING 700watts out of the socket itself... i be worried at that point even with chicago weather XD thats ln2 territory my friend...


and i highly doubt your 14 core would pull more watts than my 7980xe so..
you forgot i have a 7940x too XD

also, why you compared a full system been loaded vs a cpu power draw on a cpu block cooling topic/testing have me confused..

I have a test few pages back where my P3 was reading 830watts out of the wall which converts to 510w+ peaks out of the socket *on a system where the only thing been loaded is the cpu..* that enough shows what the block potential is.. thats more than enough even in my comfort zone.. 400w avg is where is at realistic speaking or recommended when you pushing it hard..


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> again... when i mention 400w+ out of the socket out of the socket do you realize im pulling 700w out of the wall by itself with a P3 reading??
> 
> you have to understand what you pulling out the wall ITS NOT the same your cpu is pulling OUT OF THE SOCKET..
> 
> i have the mobo/amd 580 which its not even on use for only display and the cpu..
> 
> the only thing been loaded is the cpu itself thats it.. so from wall thru psu and vrms actual watts out of the socket its less what a p3 would tell you thats why ITS IMPORTANT to say whats the actual socket draw which dictates the cooling potential..
> 
> 
> and i highly doubt your 14 core would pull more watts than my 7980xe so..
> you forgot i have a 7940x too XD


You have to understand you are arguing with an EE working in critical power field. My 4 cores less WILL pull more when Im running ALL cores OCd. Thats why I asked you to go to all cores instead of by the core to see what you get. If you dont want to thats OK, I get it if your 7980xe chokes with all cores OCd. 

Next time I run a bench Ill set up the UPS captures for 5 second intervals. One must also understand that watts calculated using Ohms law VxA=W (/sq root of 3 or 1.732 if you are talking 3 phase) does not equate to using 1 W is equal to 3.41 BTU/h for heat calculations. We can take that discussion as deep as you want to go but it still isn't the discussion at hand, Ill even start a new thread if you like. 

My question here....Is the optimus a better cooling solution? I can run my cool cores higher and my hot cores lower and put my case outside and make nice pretty even cooler numbers too but thats not what Im trying to do. Im trying to push it as high as it will go in an average ambient and hold through a heavy stress bench to see what the Block does. We obviously have different objectives and Ill just agree that we disagree and leave it there.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> You have to understand you are arguing with an EE working in critical power field. My 4 cores less WILL pull more when Im running ALL cores OCd. Thats why I asked you to go to all cores instead of by the core to see what you get. If you dont want to thats OK, I get it if your 7980xe chokes with all cores OCd.
> 
> Next time I run a bench Ill set up the UPS captures for 5 second intervals. One must also understand that watts calculated using Ohms law VxA=W (/sq root of 3 or 1.732 if you are talking 3 phase) does not equate to using 1 W is equal to 3.41 BTU/h for heat calculations. We can take that discussion as deep as you want to go but it still isn't the discussion at hand, Ill even start a new thread if you like.
> 
> My question here....Is the optimus a better cooling solution? I can run my cool cores higher and my hot cores lower and put my case outside and make nice pretty even cooler numbers too but thats not what Im trying to do. Im trying to push it as high as it will go in an average ambient and hold through a heavy stress bench to see what the Block does. We obviously have different objectives and Ill just agree that we disagree and leave it there.




when i changed the per core i explicit say it.. :/ {and if i recollect i did it only once where i downsize my core spread to 5c tops} all my tests also dont use avx offsets which sucks more watts XD
i can even have a more efficient overclock as i use adaptive overclocking.... if i use main multi + avx offset my cpu would be pulling less watts as it drops down on an avx load as the vcore will follow the drop as needed...

so i try to have it on a static voltage so the wattage pulling its constant.. i have this cpu so binned that i can push 49x with adaptive with 0 problems in this board or by per core specific. Thats the beauty of it

again p3 pull not the same as socket pull


----------



## JustinThyme

blitzkrieg666 said:


> yup the instruction that came with it doesn't mention of any backplate. yes it comes with 8x plastic washers, which i guess should between pcb and screw, also not mentioned.
> what say you @Optimus WC?
> https://i.shgcdn.com/2fcdb538-29db-...t/auto/-/preview/3000x3000/-/quality/lighter/


Yeah they did leave that out. From What Ive seen mentioned by @Optimus PC the backplate is supposed to go up against the PCB on the back and the washers on the other side if you want but also that its not recommended. Confusing I know. The 2066 is easy. Just screw posts to existing mounts, put on block and put on nuts with or without springs.

Is there any insulation on that back plate? If not Id definitely put some rubber between the back plate and the PCB. Every solution Ive received with a backplate from other vendors had rubber.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> when i changed the per core i explicit say it.. :/ {and if i recollect i did it only once where i downsize my core spread to 5c tops} all my tests also dont use avx offsets which sucks more watts XD
> i can even have a more efficient overclock as i use adaptive overclocking.... if i use main multi + avx offset my cpu would be pulling less watts as it drops down on an avx load as the vcore will follow the drop as needed...
> 
> so i try to have it on a static voltage so the wattage pulling its constant.. i have this cpu so binned that i can push 49x with adaptive with 0 problems in this board
> 
> again p3 pull not the same as socket pull


If you say so... and thats a given depending on PSU efficiency


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> If you say so...


its not the same i guaranteed you bro i can have my MoRa3 and my Phobya 1260 in series outside with fans @ full speed on a chicago day wheres is -20c and i guaranteed you i will get into issues if im pulling 700-800w out of the socket thats a guaranteed...
700-800w out of the socket im guessing aroundish 1khw+ out of the wall..... yeah ln2 territory XD that if i dont blow the vrms first lol


but if it makes you feel better well my P3 readings where 700-800w out of the wall where only the cpu is been stress loaded so :rollseyes: myself i dont qualify that as cooling potential but XD


so in the end here or every other site tests we have seen so far about this block im the highest wattage draw tests shown so far in this block on a sustained load...


----------



## JustinThyme

RB stress test with Handbrake, blender and openCL all running on CPU 4.8GHz all cores Vcore 1.220
901.8681 watts from UPS output logged 20:48.34

119.77 X 7.53= 901.8681 Watts from UPS output.

Even plugged in my dual conversion with an NMC card as my 2200 doestnt have it and 1600vA wont support both CPU and GPUs.


----------



## KCDC

JustinThyme said:


> 500W, is that all?
> Between the CPU and GPUs Im pegging a 1600W PSU, close to it anyhow. Had to upgrade UPS from .9 PF 1600vA to .9 PF 2200vA just I it dont go into overload. UPS logs showing 1495 Watts on UPS output putting .9 PF Closer to 1650 Watts from the wall But thats the UPS efficiency accounted for too so lave it at the 1495. Seeing how UPS is only rated for 1600 kept getting overload.
> 
> Thats what I think we are both trying to say. Looking for average conditions 22-25C with CPU pushed hard, not tuning system back to make the block #s look cool and even. Great for you to have built in chiller but that doesnt tell us anything about the block performance. I dont know what else to say but hooray for you getting loaded temps that look like my Idle temps.





Which UPS are you using? I'm pushing close to 1300W with everything at full tilt before monitors and peripherals and I'm getting tired of buying UPS's that just don't do the job. Sorry for OT everyone. Feel free to PM me


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> RB stress test with Handbrake, blender and openCL all running on CPU 4.8GHz all cores Vcore 1.220
> 901.8681 watts from UPS output logged 20:48.34
> 
> 119.77 X 7.53= 901.8681 Watts from UPS output.
> 
> Even plugged in my dual conversion with an NMC card as my 2200 doestnt have it and 1600vA wont support both CPU and GPUs.








ok then XD


----------



## skupples

KCDC said:


> Which UPS are you using? I'm pushing close to 1300W with everything at full tilt before monitors and peripherals and I'm getting tired of buying UPS's that just don't do the job. Sorry for OT everyone. Feel free to PM me


Add2PSU. 

one for the board, one for GPUs & everything else.

it's 65f out right now, so I most DEFINITELY have my window open. though my PC isn't right under it anymore.


----------



## blitzkrieg666

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah they did leave that out. From What Ive seen mentioned by @Optimus PC the backplate is supposed to go up against the PCB on the back and the washers on the other side if you want but also that its not recommended. Confusing I know. The 2066 is easy. Just screw posts to existing mounts, put on block and put on nuts with or without springs.
> 
> Is there any insulation on that back plate? If not Id definitely put some rubber between the back plate and the PCB. Every solution Ive received with a backplate from other vendors had rubber.


After much 'digging' found from this and other forums as well, these Optimus blocks specifically for AM4 is supposed to be bare-back with no backplate. Yea had an x99 board too with existing mounts.
There is a layer of plastic insulation on the original mobo backplate. I'll give it a try without one but with the included plastic washers on the front side. Without the plastic washers on the front side, the posts have little 'surface area' on the mobo to 'stand'. I'll see how it goes, feeling naked without backplate..

Anyway just saw a review by TechPowerUp: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/optimus-foundation-cpu-block/ and look at page4

ALSO, found out the hex screw that is securing the acrylic top plate is not 'metric standard', my 3mm hex is too big and 2.5mm too small, speaking about tolerances. I'm guessing its using inches hex?


----------



## skupples

that makes me wonder...

is the hole size part of the socket spec? I know I've had all sorts of different size holes P) i've had to run down to the bits & pieces store for tiny synthetic washers more than once.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

zGunBLADEz said:


> this is as far as i will push this puppy
> 
> 49x no avx divider ht is on @ 1.32mV @ 1.78mV input he was asking for more input (you will see the power spikes) but nope nope nope my psu out of the wall was already pulling @ 830watts out of the 850w rated seasonic gold x i use for open bench..
> 
> the peak was 511w out of the socket im not ln2 benching lol i do not recommend this huge draws like that out of the socket...
> 
> 
> classrom and pavillion tests only highest drawers


now brother, i was here at 500w+ "SUSTAINED" out of the socket itself i was using 2 PSUS at one point the main Seasonic 850w (actually rated for 1khw+) for 24pin and to feed for the eps i have a custom server psu (80+ titanium) that i have custom braids for eps or pciex connectors what you think i actually was pulling out of the psu??

So my statement still standing, "HIGHEST WATTAGE DRAW THIS BLOCK AS SEEN around"
still on topic performance on the block since day 1 XD
This just the cpu as a source lol.... 


this is your 1.220mV pull on my side





try showing a p3 instead the ups logs as this have extra wattage added for the battery replenishment as it is used theres no way in hell rog bench is pulling those watts at miserable @ 1.220mV out of the cpu socket more than blender classrom and pavilion sustained loads i barely brake 320-350w socket draw at that voltage on rog bench xD


----------



## shotround

ALSO, found out the hex screw that is securing the acrylic top plate is not 'metric standard', my 3mm hex is too big and 2.5mm too small, speaking about tolerances. I'm guessing its using inches hex?[/QUOTE]

did you try SAE? wish we would convert to metric already. work toolbox is twice as heavy carrying both sets.


----------



## JustinThyme

KCDC said:


> Which UPS are you using? I'm pushing close to 1300W with everything at full tilt before monitors and peripherals and I'm getting tired of buying UPS's that just don't do the job. Sorry for OT everyone. Feel free to PM me


https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/products/APC-Smart-UPS-SRT-2200VA-120V/P-SRT2200XLA

If you are peaking at 1300 then you can go down to the 1500 model

https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/products/APC-Smart-UPS-SRT-1500VA-120V/P-SRT1500XLA

A little cheaper.

The 2200 is as large as you can go on 120V.

You can rack mount them or with floor stands. I use floor stands. Only drawback is they have fans that are contstantly running and ramp up with load so not silent like the cheap $200 line interactive models

Not cheap but one of the perks of the Job working in platform engineering for Schneider Electric Critical power division. Dont cost me squat. Guess I need to order an NMC card for my 2200. One in my 1600Va doesnt work. Just have to order it up though as Engineer stock. 

The junk you buy from Best Buy Etc is just that, junk. Even the APC brand. Its all line interactive which in simple terms, you are on street power until it detects out of tolerance conditions. The dual conversion is just like it says. AC to DC then DC back to AC and its online with a pure sinewave output 100% of the time. Power goes out of tolerance and its just a revesal of current flow in the battery packs. You can also get more battery packs for extended run time but I have software, powerchute, set to start shut down when batteries have 4 mins run time left. 

I do mostly the larger systems starting out at 1.6 Megawatts like the one in the pic that will power up all of us and then some LOL
If you want I can get you a quote on the one in the PIC. Last one I saw go out went for $220K without the batteries. 

Installing some temp 100kVA models in a Bank of New York site while they pull out old 500kVA machines and upgrade. Im gonna try and score one and put it in my basement for the whole house when they are done with them. Then I dont have to worry about having several in the house for Home theater and security. One light in every room runs on UPS power with the 5kVA I have in the basment now that covers emergency lighting, sump pumps and security system then a 20kW Nat gas generator outside.

Dont worry about OT, that went out the window about 10 pages ago.


----------



## blitzkrieg666

shotround said:


> did you try SAE? wish we would convert to metric already. work toolbox is twice as heavy carrying both sets.


Nope, don't have an SAE hex set. I'll need to hunt one down in my local store, which would be hard as here in Asia we're 'metric-cise'.


----------



## JustinThyme

blitzkrieg666 said:


> Nope, don't have an SAE hex set. I'll need to hunt one down in my local store, which would be hard as here in Asia we're 'metric-cise'.


Well that's better than the US. You can be wrenching in the same vehicle and half are SAE and the other half are metric but both are widely available here, just have to buy everything.


----------



## speed_demon

Chrysler products in the 90's were terrible for that. They also scattered Torx head screws throughout the vehicle for good measure.


----------



## JustinThyme

speed_demon said:


> Chrysler products in the 90's were terrible for that. They also scattered Torx head screws throughout the vehicle for good measure.


Yeah, Ive been getting plenty of practice at that. My Son bought a 2001 1500 Truck with 153000 miles on it and not maintain for crap (that truck has been the bain of my existence but I make him do the work as much as possible so he can learn) 18YO and knows everything! And the wife drives a 2015 Jeep Liberty. Both of them with SAE and metric but at least all the torx screws are metric. I just have my HD Fatboy and company supplies Ford Escape that gets replaced every 5 years or 90K miles, whichever comes first. For me its the 90K mile mark as I do about 30K a year for work. All I have to do with that one is put gas in it with the card they gave me and drive it. Breaks down or needs maintenance I call and they either come get it and bring me a loaner if its broke of the usual oil changes that also goes on company card.


----------



## skupples

if you live in a newer home with multiphase power, you can get away with the not-always online version for 1/4 of the price (kicks on when power goes outta spec only) i've been using these as of recent, and they're more than fine for home use. 1500PFCLCD (those server grade units are pricey due to the always online nature, where its on cleaned battery power 100% of the time. this also means they're loud.)

i've had 2 events this week during usage hours, & didn't even notice.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Topic fell of a cliff lol :thumb:

Got heatkiller 4 pro tests done with the same mounting position as optimus mounts 
Just doing goofy mount now 

Couldn't do much with heatkiller mounting hardware had to abort that test 
Used a bitspower mount static like optimus springless.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Topic fell of a cliff lol /forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif
> 
> Got heatkiller 4 pro tests done with the same mounting position as optimus mounts
> Just doing goofy mount now
> 
> Couldn't do much with heatkiller mounting hardware had to abort that test
> Used a bitspower mount static like optimus springless.


Oh bummer, i was hoping because xD i just stomped on yours and justinthyme cb15&cb20 with my 7980xe with ht disable using this block... XD


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Hate to be the one to break it to you man but a 7980xe should beat a 9940x already so you have a net gain of what exactly :doh:

If you want to impress us do it on a 7940x


----------



## zGunBLADEz

its easier for me to disable 4 cores out of my 7980xe turn ht back on i will even handicap myself and raise the voltage to 1.425mV thats how certain i am i will not trigger TJMAx XD


but look look im an engineer im pulling 900w+ my ups say so look @ 1.220mV over 9000+
XD


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I would imagine it would be easier to disable cores 

So this block you were referring to using a heatkiller 4 pro ?

Did you ever get a optimus block or are you just still waiting for one or now a demo maybe.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I would imagine it would be easier to disable cores
> 
> So this block you were referring to using a heatkiller 4 pro ?
> 
> Did you ever get a optimus block or are you just still waiting for one or now a demo maybe.


ermmm XD yeah i be bothering putting tests here just bcuz XD


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> ermmm XD yeah i be bothering putting tests here just bcuz XD


Hi,
Is that supposed to be English 
This is the type of stuff out of you that just screams trolling.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Is that supposed to be English
> This is the type of stuff out of you that just screams trolling.


trolling sure.... XD

i felt kind of bad just turning 4 cores out of my 7980xe knowing the outcome and run the highest power draws from blender benchmark suite

but justinthyme was arguing that 1.220mV his cpu is pulling what 900w?? but wait thats on rog bench lol

the "chiller" is blasting right now right XD


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Well you could just take a chill pill man I ask very simple questions and you gave back gibberish.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Well you could just take a chill pill man I ask very simple questions and you gave back gibberish.


at this point yeah XD








what else for what it matters at this point??


----------



## sakete

@Optimus WC What materials are your compression fittings made of?

https://optimuspc.com/products/flex-compression-fitting-satin-nickel-10-16mm


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> @Optimus WC What materials are your compression fittings made of?
> 
> https://optimuspc.com/products/flex-compression-fitting-satin-nickel-10-16mm


Hi,
Boom good question 
For 13.us a pop I can't see any aluminum worth that much 
Description seems off 

I would expect for that price brass fittings with nickle ?


----------



## Zurv

@Optimus WC

Any update on the GPU blocks?


----------



## skupples

oh look, someone had the same thought as me.

another after-work Monday. 

Anyone see an update since the back plate update?


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Boom good question
> For 13.us a pop I can't see any aluminum worth that much
> Description seems off
> 
> I would expect for that price brass fittings with nickle ?


I dont see it either. Something we agree on, go figure.
Simple BP fitting copper with nice black finish are 4 for $35 so what like $8.75 each. 
Yeah I know their labor costs are higher but gonna have to do a bit better on that and get more sizes up before any market share can be expected to evolve there. No fitting is going to give you better performance thermal wise, just longevity with no corrosion. Ive got BP fittings that I bought 5 years ago or more that are still just as good as they were the day I broke the seal on the package, especially any swivels. Ive tried a few others. Some are OK and others are pure junk but BP has always held strong. Disassembly can actually be a PITA when its time to break down to clean because you cant get the tubing out, takes some work and never had leaker.


----------



## SocketHead

skupples said:


> oh look, someone had the same thought as me.
> 
> another after-work Monday.
> 
> Anyone see an update since the back plate update?


This might help someone, here's what I did to mount the Foundation block on a MSI x570 Godlike board without using the supplied fasteners.

The stock backing plate has 6-32 threads so I put SS 6-32 x 1" socket head cap screws in through from the back, and on the front used 6-32 nickel plated brass acorn nuts with SS washers.

Very simple, fits tight in the waterblock slots, and the waterblock is straight. Socket head cap screws can be put through the water block from the front if preferred with original backplate.

I can tighten the acorn nuts with a 1/4 drive socket and it would be about the same torque as the knurled nuts that came with the waterblock.

I'm happy!

The M-4 Optimus nuts at the same torque as the 6-32 acorn nuts would generate more clamping force, because the M-4 threads are higher threads/length. M-4 is like shifting down a gear from 6-32. Not sure if that will be an issue or not. I'd think not.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, nothing we do has aluminum in the water channel. We'll clean up the website if this is confusing  So our fittings are super pure brass (like all good fittings should be). The caps that don't touch the liquid, simply provide clamping, can be any material. I believe nearly everyone uses aluminum for the cap material, it's honestly overkill to do anything else. Our big difference is we use our high end nickel plating over brass for max corrosion resistance. Oh, and we make our fittings to match true BSPP G spec, so G1/4" is really G1/4" not kinda sorta G spec, which actually makes a difference


----------



## jsprachyl

Zurv said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Any update on the GPU blocks?


bump.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, *nothing we do has aluminum in the water channel*. We'll clean up the website if this is confusing  So our fittings are super *pure brass *(like all good fittings should be). The caps that don't touch the liquid, simply provide clamping, can be any material. I believe nearly everyone uses aluminum for the cap material, it's honestly overkill to do anything else. Our big difference is we use our high end nickel plating over brass for max corrosion resistance. Oh, and we make our fittings to match true BSPP G spec, so G1/4" is really G1/4" not kinda sorta G spec, which actually makes a difference


Hi,
Yes you could also clear up the Intel.. foundation description too about it's aluminum bracket not being in the water channel too 
Someone said something about that a day or two ago on the aluminum listing after I posted to one.

But indeed I figured had to be brass/ nickle plated for sure caps yeah anything really.


----------



## 98S4

jsprachyl said:


> bump.


On Twitter they said 3 more weeks for the GPU block (from Feb 22nd) at best, which is extremely disappointing considering the 30XX will be out shortly after...


----------



## skupples

is G1/4 supposed to be maintained, at the least, thru the entire fitting? if so, tons of companies drop below it internally. specially on discount 90s n 45s.



98S4 said:


> On Twitter they said 3 more weeks for the GPU block (from Feb 22nd) at best, which is extremely disappointing considering the 30XX will be out shortly after...


sounds about right. so far, everything has been at least 2x the time they've stated. 

luckily, nothing worth a damn from ampere will be out in 3 weeks, maybe see the 3080 in 3 months, more like 4. N really, unless you're made of money, jumping from 2080ti to 3080 is silly, even if there's a 15-30% gain. All that does is give us something to look forward to on the big boys at the end of the year.

In short - I just don't see NV doing a full line release all at once, like they did with Turing. That was an abnormal release cycle, during extreme market domination.

at this point, i'd almost rather take credit towards a 3080ti block, but that'll likely take 6 months to release too since a new company likely won't be able to get pre-release samples. You'd think they'd at least be able to get digital samples in the year 2020, right?


----------



## springs113

When's the threadripper block releasing? My patience is wearing. First it was December but it's now basically March.


----------



## JustinThyme

springs113 said:


> When's the threadripper block releasing? My patience is wearing. First it was December but it's now basically March.


That was the bain of my existence waiting for a Strix 2080Ti block That two big names promised for mid to late November. First of the two finally came to market Last week of March blaming the back plate design. The other Didnt show up until May a full 9 months after the card was released and knowing for fact they had samples 3 months before release.


----------



## 98S4

skupples said:


> at this point, i'd almost rather take credit towards a 3080ti block, but that'll likely take 6 months to release too since a new company likely won't be able to get pre-release samples. You'd think they'd at least be able to get digital samples in the year 2020, right?


That's about how I feel. I'm ready to cancel my order or take a credit towards a 3080ti. So many conflicting reports on if its 20% or 50% better than Turing. I have a full system built that has been waiting on this GPU block for weeks.


----------



## skupples

98S4 said:


> That's about how I feel. I'm ready to cancel my order or take a credit towards a 3080ti. So many conflicting reports on if its 20% or 50% better than Turing. I have a full system built that has been waiting on this GPU block for weeks.


reports gonna conflict until there's an actual product registering on benchmarks (that's when you know the cards are right around the corner) 

either way its gonna be a beastly step up over gen 1 ray tracing taking up 20% of the god damn core space. 20% of the core i've yet to ever use 

for some reason I see an ampere refresh as early as 2021/early 2022 due to the new consoles though. AMD and NV have one last chance to squeeze everyone, then the new boxes drop, & price/perf ratio, and thus expectation goes way up. AND intel might have a decent card out by 2021. i figure the first gen is a total wash in the gaming segment, idk.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

skupples said:


> 98S4 said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's about how I feel. I'm ready to cancel my order or take a credit towards a 3080ti. So many conflicting reports on if its 20% or 50% better than Turing. I have a full system built that has been waiting on this GPU block for weeks.
> 
> 
> 
> reports gonna conflict until there's an actual product registering on benchmarks (that's when you know the cards are right around the corner)
> 
> either way its gonna be a beastly step up over gen 1 ray tracing taking up 20% of the god damn core space. 20% of the core i've yet to ever use /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> for some reason I see an ampere refresh as early as 2021/early 2022 due to the new consoles though. AMD and NV have one last chance to squeeze everyone, then the new boxes drop, & price/perf ratio, and thus expectation goes way up. AND intel might have a decent card out by 2021. i figure the first gen is a total wash in the gaming segment, idk.
Click to expand...

It is really... I would not expect much out of the new gpus been released this yr.. Bunch of AAA games would be put in hold mostly till next year bcuz of the new consoles.. Current games are already been done for... 

Nvidia Turing didnt offer nothing at all in my eyes in that aspect neither RT its been an 18+ months since release im still standing is an overpriced piece of tururu.. Good for old benchmarkers with the $1200+ tag of the 2080Ti in reality the 3-5 so games that support RT in one shape or the other didnt show nothing spectacular.. Other than the massive performance impact that brought RT. And dlss still a wash and not true resolution scaling and 1440p to 4k dlss cant beat a 1800P IQ even so ...


----------



## qes27

springs113 said:


> When's the threadripper block releasing? My patience is wearing. First it was December but it's now basically March.


These are the last few updates regarding an ETA for the TR block. Hopefully soon, but I ordered back in December as well and have been hearing another week or two ever since.

1/23 - "Threadripper: End of next week."

1/25 - "We'll be manufacturing the blocks this coming week, then all the finishing will take another week or so. So our best estimate is the week after next for delivery."

2/3 - "The Threadripper and GPU blocks are still a few weeks out, Threadripper will be first"

2/22 - "now it's all hands on deck getting these blocks out the door!! ...we'll be shipping soon, hard to give an exact time but will keep posting updates as we crank out the blocks"


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> reports gonna conflict until there's an actual product registering on benchmarks (that's when you know the cards are right around the corner)
> 
> either way its gonna be a beastly step up over gen 1 ray tracing taking up 20% of the god damn core space. 20% of the core i've yet to ever use
> 
> for some reason I see an ampere refresh as early as 2021/early 2022 due to the new consoles though. AMD and NV have one last chance to squeeze everyone, then the new boxes drop, & price/perf ratio, and thus expectation goes way up. AND intel might have a decent card out by 2021. i figure the first gen is a total wash in the gaming segment, idk.


This is a very valid point.
At this point all things ampere are pure conjecture as usual preceeding a launch. When they hit the market and samples are actually available thats when you make a decision. Sitting on a pair of 2080Tis they will have to be something drastic to get me even interested. This brings up another point, 3080Ti wont be seen until at least next fall. Anything else will fall short of the 2080Ti so pointless completely for me.


----------



## Shawnb99

Still haven’t received my springless fittings. Got a reply the first day I requested them saying they were being sent out that day, asked for a delay so they could use the ones that match my block and haven’t heard a word since. Guess it’s time for another email


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I ordered a new copper cold plate yesterday other one was pretty beat up 
I also requested springless mounts and gasket kits for foundation and signature in case my experiments don't do well 
I'll cut them a lot of slack hard to find nice manufactures especially local ones 

Mounting the foundation back on to finish my comparison 
Heatkiller 4 pro are done with goofy springless and optimus mount springless 

HK mounts was as expected not worth bothering with not sure how anyone uses HK mounting hardware on 2066 never works well at all
I was using ek mounting hardware before with springs.. like HK 1151 mount is like no telling why they did bolts... on 2066 but that is a automatic fail just 4.5 all core hit 90c.


----------



## keeph8n

ThrashZone said:


> HK mounts was as expected not worth bothering with not sure how anyone uses HK mounting hardware on 2066 never works well at all
> I was using ek mounting hardware before with springs.. like HK 1151 mount is like no telling why they did bolts... on 2066 but that is a automatic fail just 4.5 all core hit 90c.



Never had an issue with HK mounting on X299. Use one for both my 10900X and 10980XE. Both 5Ghz no issues


----------



## ThrashZone

keeph8n said:


> Never had an issue with HK mounting on X299. Use one for both my 10900X and 10980XE. Both 5Ghz no issues


Hi,
Have you ever tried static/ without springs ?
If not you should try it 

I must of gotten terrible weak springs.
But just the awkwardness of a bolt/ spring/ little washer is the dumbest system I've ever seen.


----------



## keeph8n

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Have you ever tried static/ without springs ?
> If not you should try it
> 
> I must of gotten terrible weak springs.
> But just the awkwardness of a bolt/ spring/ little washer is the dumbest system I've ever seen.





No reason to try without springs. Washer isn't necessary, but makes it handy.


----------



## ThrashZone

keeph8n said:


> No reason to try without springs. Washer isn't necessary, but makes it handy.


Hi,
Well okay then you don't experiment :thumb:


----------



## keeph8n

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Well okay then you don't experiment :thumb:



Sounds good. No reason to mess with something that isn't broken. I don't have temp issues, nor do countless others


----------



## ThrashZone

keeph8n said:


> Sounds good. No reason to mess with something that isn't broken. I don't have temp issues, nor do countless others


Hi,
I haven't seen anything clock or temps related you've posted yet.
I saw at the least 5c low temps going static mount on HK about the same using ek evo intel mount since it can be tightened more.


----------



## keeph8n

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I haven't seen anything clock or temps related you've posted yet.
> I saw at the least 5c low temps going static mount on HK about the same using ek evo intel mount since it can be tightened more.



plenty of data on my HWBOT profile. If I must, next time I have the 10980XE out, I can run some temperature tests


----------



## ThrashZone

keeph8n said:


> plenty of data on my HWBOT profile. If I must, next time I have the 10980XE out, I can run some temperature tests


Hi,
I remember now just stalked  I mean followed your posts a little found out why LN2... you do experiment just not with static mount so far.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> skupples said:
> 
> 
> 
> reports gonna conflict until there's an actual product registering on benchmarks (that's when you know the cards are right around the corner)
> 
> either way its gonna be a beastly step up over gen 1 ray tracing taking up 20% of the god damn core space. 20% of the core i've yet to ever use /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> for some reason I see an ampere refresh as early as 2021/early 2022 due to the new consoles though. AMD and NV have one last chance to squeeze everyone, then the new boxes drop, & price/perf ratio, and thus expectation goes way up. AND intel might have a decent card out by 2021. i figure the first gen is a total wash in the gaming segment, idk.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a very valid point.
> At this point all things ampere are pure conjecture as usual preceeding a launch. When they hit the market and samples are actually available thats when you make a decision. Sitting on a pair of 2080Tis they will have to be something drastic to get me even interested. This brings up another point, 3080Ti wont be seen until at least next fall. Anything else will fall short of the 2080Ti so pointless completely for me.
Click to expand...

Full agreement. Remember the rtx2080ti talk around feb/mar 2017 was like this crazy too. I probably shouldn’t have followed it honestly. That and the crazy speculation talk about an s8 revision. I really was that close to getting an s8.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

An update about why products have been delayed:

First, we're working like crazy to get them done. We feel really bad about the delays and bad estimates,no doubt we'd be pissed, since we're big watercooling guys who buy stuff as well . 

The reason for the delay is this:

We keep finding more performance gains. 

When our original estimates were given, it was based on having the designs and prototyping nearly finished. A prototype based on how all other blocks function, with our added performance and quality gains. We easily could have shipped product that was really really good. But good isn't good enough. 

So the last 5% of testing revealed inherent problems with the platforms. For example, with the GPU, we noticed that there was considerable issues with GPU PCB flex and no current solution was handling it correctly. We could get absolutely excellent die performance or excellent everything else cooling, but not both at the same time. 

That caused us to go down a research path to find how why and then how to fix it.

With Threadripper, the IHS contact area became the massive challenge. So when we had our first prototypes, they were similar to everything on the market, just better. Visually, the final block looks nearly the same, but there are a bunch of internal tweaks to handle threadripper contact way better. The number of prototypes has been insane. We could make an Iron Throne out of copper cold plates. The copper throne maybe? 

In any case, now we're past those issues and into production. Threadripper is being made right now and once production is stable, we'll do GPU production. 

So that's the rough update. In the future, we'll try to be much better about being 100% finished with designs before even announcing they exist. We got overly excited  Also, much of the work now makes new product development far faster. Like future GPUs. Now that we know the ways to overcome these issues, we can make new block designs very, very fast.


----------



## tistou77

EKWB released its new Magnitude waterblock (CPU)
The price hurts, ~ $280 :doh:

It would seem (as for Optimus) the hole IN is more offset than on the old WB
The hole is offset but it seems that the water passage is the same as with the old blocks









The cold plate is very similar to that of Optimus 
0.40mm wide microchannels and 0.26mm thick microfins (and for Optimus, 0.1016mm fins with 0.2032mm micro channels, Optimus is better)









I'm curious about the performance compared to the Optimus 
And what justifies this exorbitant price


----------



## oreonutz

tistou77 said:


> EKWB released its new Magnitude waterblock (CPU)
> The price hurts, ~ $280 :doh:
> 
> It would seem (as for Optimus) the hole IN is more offset than on the old WB
> The hole is offset but it seems that the water passage is the same as with the old blocks (see screen) ?
> 
> View attachment 329236
> 
> 
> 
> I'm curious about the performance compared to the Optimus
> And what justifies this exorbitant price


$280! What the hell are they smoking over there???


----------



## Bart

LOL, EK makes such garbage. If it wasn't for idiotic YouTubers, and the morons who take their advice, no one in their right mind would use EK blocks. They suck, especially compared to the good stuff like HeatKillers. Cheap junk masquerading as a "premium" brand, just like Corsair. Would not touch, ever.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
RGB costs are high in Slavia


----------



## skupples

JustinThyme said:


> This is a very valid point.
> At this point all things ampere are pure conjecture as usual preceeding a launch. When they hit the market and samples are actually available thats when you make a decision. Sitting on a pair of 2080Tis they will have to be something drastic to get me even interested. This brings up another point, 3080Ti wont be seen until at least next fall. Anything else will fall short of the 2080Ti so pointless completely for me.


nah, 3080 will be faster than 2080ti in all 99% of game tasks. just don't know by how much. hell, even 2080ti w. 2080S memory modules is 10-15% faster...



oreonutz said:


> $280! What the hell are they smoking over there???


expensive chips, and other manufacturers making blocks for north of $200 = why the hell not?! also, doing business in europe can't be cheap.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> nah, 3080 will be faster than 2080ti in all 99% of game tasks. just don't know by how much. hell, even 2080ti w. 2080S memory modules is 10-15% faster...


Hi,
No more 420 for you dude


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> No more 420 for you dude


would you like to make a little wager that 3080 is at least as fast, if not 5-10% faster than 2080ti? while being more like 2-4x as fast in RTX handling?
also, seeing as i'm at work, no 4:20 since my wake up dabs?


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> would you like to make a little wager that 3080 is at least as fast, if not 5-10% faster than 2080ti? while being more like 2-4x as fast in RTX handling?


Hi,
Seriously doubt nvidia would dwarf 2080ti by even 1% on a 3080 or 3080 super since they went that route for more suckers for the same card.


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Seriously doubt nvidia would dwarf 2080ti by even 1% on a 3080 or 3080 super since they went that route for more suckers for the same card.


not factoring in AMD's incoming power play, AND their consoles massively shaking up cost/perf ratio perception. turing has 20% space taken up by cores that were anything but ready. Ampere will be a vastly superior and more efficient machine all around. 2080TI is gonna age like GTX970.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
AMD's got nothing in graphic's.


----------



## skupples

sure, whatever you say. i see foresight isn't your strong-suit.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Even if amd did have something they'd just screw it up driver wise.


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> not factoring in AMD's incoming power play, AND their consoles massively shaking up cost/perf ratio perception. turing has 20% space taken up by cores that were anything but ready. Ampere will be a vastly superior and more efficient machine all around. 2080TI is gonna age like GTX970.


We won't know until we see it. Your statement could be hyperbole, or it could be mild.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Wishful guessing


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Even if amd did have something they'd just screw it up driver wise.


indeed, and yet, still, 2080ti is getting trumped by 3080, and AMD's next flagship.



sakete said:


> We won't know until we see it. Your statement could be hyperbole, or it could be mild.


correct, it's called inferring. There's lots of of data you can mash together to get an idea of what's gonna happen.

NV's 5 year stranglehold on high end is coming to an end soon. prices won't change much, just perf/cost ratio. 

though some like to argue prices are gonna drop, based on what AMD has done multiple times to intel in the CPU segment.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Key word is rumors


----------



## tistou77

There is also a different CPU for each Intel architecture for example (LGA1xxx and LGA2xxx)
No more insert to replace


----------



## skupples

I get it, 2080ti is one of your first high end GPUs. We all went thru this denial at least once. It'll get trumped, hard, n soon. by 3080, and AMD's 59whateverthehellitsgonnabecalled


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> I get it, 2080ti is one of your first high end GPUs. We all went thru this denial at least once.


Hi,
You referring to me ?
Hate to be the one to break it to you but I don't even have a 2080ti I skipped the space invaders release


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Optimus foundation clearly cools better than heatkiller 4 pro
Tighter core temp spread although HK may have 1 cooler core it's useless at all core clocks 
AVX offset used to show HK doesn't handle the additional core voltage as well even though on lower clocks with avx content if it were just 4.5 all core HK does better but looses core temp spread as the clocks go up.

Big image


----------



## sakete

I'm just biding my time with a 980ti and whatever the new Ampere will do, it'll be leagues ahead of what I have now. 

Did just yesterday install a 3900x + Gigabyte board. Been maybe 12 years or more since I had AMD. Takes some getting used to coming from Intel. These x570 bioses are weird  or maybe it's just Gigabyte, as I've often had Asus boards.


----------



## JustinThyme

Ill be sitting out next Gen no matter what it is. It may show a little gain Im sure but not enough for me to switch up. Im figuring on sitting on what I have until the 40XX maybe. 

ATM just a lot of innuendo and conjecture. Happens at every release. There were rumors on how the 2080Ti was going to be at least 50% over the 1080Ti and that didnt happen. More like 25% at best and its highly dependent on what you are doing with it. ATM Im still on a 2K ultra wide monitor that I dont see switching up until its dead.


----------



## Zurv

feh.. i'll jump in right away. This 20xx was a lite one for my. Only 6 cards  (maybe... i wouldn't have jumped in this time if the 2080 was my only option. The Ti was worth it. (ugh.. and the Titans were not... the locked down bios made it so it was slower than a FE (with a better power limited bios.))
The worse for me was the crappy 1080. I think i had 19 cards from that gen. Titan XP and Xp where nice tho.

I was going to stick with the V for this gen, but i'm happy i didn't. The 2080 ti Kingpin was faster and i needed an RTX card for gsync on my OLED. (gysnc at 60hz? what is the point? The point is the 2080ti isn't powerful enough and i drop below 60 sometimes  )
I also want the hdmi 2.1.. again for the 77" oled. I want full chroma on my HDR and 4k.

I think i'm going to get one of the 48" OLED for a desktop monitor too.

That said, I'm not going to play the CPU core count game anymore. So no more top 10 3d mark scores for me. (it was always dumb that they put so much weight on CPU physics.) 

Even these 2080ti feel weak and i'm grumpy about the lack of SLI support these days. I was really hoping the RT would push devs to use it (RT does work with SLI.) *also, i'm going to call it SLI.. so shh.. SLI is only a 3dfx thing, but that is the world i'm going to use for multi-gpu 
RT really impresses me. So a new card with some raw perf gain and a bunch of RT gain == win. At least for me.
@Optimus, get on that vendor list or whatever you need to do to get early CAD or prototypes for nvidia (or evga)


----------



## 98S4

There's an argument to be made that Nvidia could make a leap here with 40-50% better performance than the 2080TI just to stomp on AMD and Intel before they even get off the runway. 
@Optimus hard question to answer, but do you have an estimate on time to market for a 30XX block after the public launch?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

I wonder if optimus can approach a modular design like occool for GPUs. Or hk...


I still havent find a block or full block for what matters that can beat a "yeah you hear me again saying koolance" koolance 220 universal block..
My swiftech 1080tis blocks have the eks beat to the ground and stump like no tomorrow like its not even funny ...

Thats the inside of my upcoming test with the byski block. Before i lap it.. For who's wondering it can cool pretty well i was using as my main before... Kind of iffy what im going to find as results..


----------



## JustinThyme

Zurv said:


> feh.. i'll jump in right away. This 20xx was a lite one for my. Only 6 cards  (maybe... i wouldn't have jumped in this time if the 2080 was my only option. The Ti was worth it. (ugh.. and the Titans were not... the locked down bios made it so it was slower than a FE (with a better power limited bios.))
> The worse for me was the crappy 1080. I think i had 19 cards from that gen. Titan XP and Xp where nice tho.
> 
> I was going to stick with the V for this gen, but i'm happy i didn't. The 2080 ti Kingpin was faster and i needed an RTX card for gsync on my OLED. (gysnc at 60hz? what is the point? The point is the 2080ti isn't powerful enough and i drop below 60 sometimes  )
> I also want the hdmi 2.1.. again for the 77" oled. I want full chroma on my HDR and 4k.
> 
> I think i'm going to get one of the 48" OLED for a desktop monitor too.
> 
> That said, I'm not going to play the CPU core count game anymore. So no more top 10 3d mark scores for me. (it was always dumb that they put so much weight on CPU physics.)
> 
> Even these 2080ti feel weak and i'm grumpy about the lack of SLI support these days. I was really hoping the RT would push devs to use it (RT does work with SLI.) *also, i'm going to call it SLI.. so shh.. SLI is only a 3dfx thing, but that is the world i'm going to use for multi-gpu
> RT really impresses me. So a new card with some raw perf gain and a bunch of RT gain == win. At least for me.
> 
> @Optimus, get on that vendor list or whatever you need to do to get early CAD or prototypes for nvidia (or evga)


If you park it in front of a 77" OLED TV to game you need more help than any hardware can ever provide..... 34 inch 2 ft in front of me is about as far as Ill ever go..


----------



## TheFrknPope

Any ETA on the intel ultra flat blocks? Not in a huge rush on mine just seeing if I need to keep an eye out for the mail( gonna be traveling back and forth for a couple weeks).


----------



## Ashcroft

tistou77 said:


> EKWB released its new Magnitude waterblock (CPU)
> The price hurts, ~ $280 :doh:
> 
> It would seem (as for Optimus) the hole IN is more offset than on the old WB
> The hole is offset but it seems that the water passage is the same as with the old blocks
> 
> View attachment 329236
> 
> 
> The cold plate is very similar to that of Optimus
> 0.40mm wide microchannels and 0.26mm thick microfins (and for Optimus, 0.1016mm fins with 0.2032mm micro channels, Optimus is better)
> 
> View attachment 329244
> 
> 
> I'm curious about the performance compared to the Optimus
> And what justifies this exorbitant price




It'll actually work instead of just promises and without a bunch of lies.


----------



## ThrashZone

Ashcroft said:


> It'll actually work instead of just promises and without a bunch of lies.


Hi,
What lies would that be exactly ?

Max core core temp at 4.8 I show 7c difference between heatkiller 4 pro and foundation
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-202.html#post28345000

Other clocks were at least 5c difference foundation being the coolest at 4.5-4.6-4.7

So again what lies techpowerup was a very narrow test on a chip these blocks aren't even designed for 
He didn't even test with HEDT chips only a 8 core 9900k.

I treated both blocks the same 
I used static mounts = no springs HK was actually worse using it's lame 2066 hardware 
I also used HK's known best goofy mount so I gave HK every known consideration.
Foundation is just flat out a better block.


----------



## LOKI23NY

Ashcroft said:


> It'll actually work instead of just promises and without a bunch of lies.


So where is your review of their block(s)? You've made six posts in the thread but I don't see anything about you owning or testing one of their blocks...


----------



## Shawnb99

Ashcroft said:


> It'll actually work instead of just promises and without a bunch of lies.




It’s made by EK so not worth buying


----------



## Jpmboy

Just found this thread...

Well, I have both the Foundation and V2 Intel blocks. I also own 3 EK Supremacy, 4 Koolance: 3x 380i and 1x390i, a couple of aquacomputer blocks and more in a box I'm not gonna dig thru since it just reminds me of wasted money. I've run the V2 and Foundation on a 7980Xe delid and a 10980XE in comparison to Ek and Koolance (*posted in this forum, but I can't find my posts  )

Currently running 7 Wc rigs here, 2 run EK, 1 runs the V2, 3 run Koolance: 3 x299, one x99 (R5E-10), one x79 (R4BE) one AM4 x470 (Taichi Ult), and one 1151 (Apex X), and a giga G9 with a full cover block). The R6 Apex carries 3 Titan Vs, The R6Eo carries two 2080Tis.

I've tested the Optimus blocks only on the x299 platform. Bottom line is the Foundation and V2 both perform better on x299 than the EKs (R6A and R6EO boards) by several degrees, and as good as or slightly better than the Koolance blocks (which IMO, were the best out at their time). The V2 block has been on 24/7 for the past month cooling this 10890XE with a continuous pull of ~ 300W running Boinc. I have in line temp sensors for hot and cold side, as well as flow meter on the hot (out) side. Flow has been constant (including with the 2 2080Tis w/ EK blocks) ay 3.9, no restriction noted.

The V2 block is really a solid chunk of metal... kinda lends meaning to the "block" in water*block*. And it acts as an excellent heatsink helping to dampen heat flux spikes to the liquid. The foundation block performs as well - within the variance _everyone _gets when changing block mounts. each were mounted at least 2x. I use TimMate TIM2 which I've found to be better than the more common and higher priced products. Never dries and has excellent conductance when used very sparingly. (with bags of TG, Gelid, HeGrease, NT-H1 and bottles of LM in another drawer!)

Just my :2cents:


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Jpmboy said:


> Just found this thread...
> 
> Well, I have both the Foundation and V2 Intel blocks. I also own 3 EK Supremacy, 4 Koolance: 3x 380i and 1x390i, a couple of aquacomputer blocks and more in a box I'm not gonna dig thru since it just reminds me of wasted money. I've run the V2 and Foundation on a 7980Xe delid and a 10980XE in comparison to Ek and Koolance (*posted in this forum, but I can't find my posts  )
> 
> Currently running 7 Wc rigs here, 2 run EK, 1 runs the V2, 3 run Koolance: 3 x299, one x99 (R5E-10), one x79 (R4BE) one AM4 x470 (Taichi Ult), and one 1151 (Apex X), and a giga G9 with a full cover block). The R6 Apex carries 3 Titan Vs, The R6Eo carries two 2080Tis.
> 
> I've tested the Optimus blocks only on the x299 platform. Bottom line is the Foundation and V2 both perform better on x299 than the EKs (R6A and R6EO boards) by several degrees, and as good as or slightly better than the Koolance blocks (which IMO, were the best out at their time). The V2 block has been on 24/7 for the past month cooling this 10890XE with a *continuous pull of ~ 300W running Boinc.* I have in line temp sensors for hot and cold side, as well as flow meter on the hot (out) side. Flow has been constant (including with the 2 2080Tis w/ EK blocks) ay 3.9, no restriction noted.
> 
> The V2 block is really a solid chunk of metal... kinda lends meaning to the "block" in water*block*. And it acts as an excellent heatsink helping to dampen heat flux spikes to the liquid. The foundation block performs as well - within the variance _everyone _gets when changing block mounts. each were mounted at least 2x. I use TimMate TIM2 which I've found to be better than the more common and higher priced products. Never dries and has excellent conductance when used very sparingly. (with bags of TG, Gelid, HeGrease, NT-H1 and bottles of LM in another drawer!)
> 
> Just my :2cents:


finally *somebody who finally understand* the concept of the real watts to dissipate instead of the wall pull....
same with my koolance 380 findings... but waiting on optimus word for flat bottom...

Yeah the block its like the mother of the blocks its build like a tank.. thing was made to last...

those are phobya inline sensors? i bought those and they were quite off "slow can i say" maybe a fluke... i have a few calibrated thermistors also few "dht22" i was trying to use the phobya line g1/4 female threaded both sides for arduino on my dewpoint controller and it was 3-5c off vs the plug, the g1/4 plug was easy to calibrate and more reactive to temp changes vs the phobya one i was set dead head to 0 degree difference with no offset vs dewpoint.. my temp curve was from boiling all way down to 0c freezing water...


----------



## Jpmboy

zGunBLADEz said:


> finally *somebody who finally understand* the concept of the real watts to dissipate instead of the wall pull....
> same with my koolance 380 findings... but waiting on optimus word for flat bottom...
> 
> Yeah the block its like the mother of the blocks its build like a tank.. thing was made to last...
> 
> those are phobya inline sensors? i bought those and they were quite off "slow can i say" maybe a fluke... i have a few calibrated thermistors also few "dht22" i was trying to use the phobya line g1/4 female threaded both sides for arduino on my dewpoint controller and it was 3-5c off vs the plug, the g1/4 plug was easy to calibrate and more reactive to temp changes vs the phobya one i was set dead head to 0 degree difference with no offset vs dewpoint.. my temp curve was from boiling all way down to 0c freezing water...


I'm currently using the aquacomputer in-line T sensors... tho they tend to fail at the 2-wire connection to the fitting if "mishandled". 
I've only done a 2 point calibration within the range I'd expect then to see... 5C to 45C using a Fluke IR Thermo as the "standard".


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Jpmboy said:


> I'm currently using the aquacomputer in-line T sensors... tho they tend to fail at the 2-wire connection to the fitting if "mishandled".
> I've only done a 2 point calibration within the range I'd expect then to see... 5C to 45C using a Fluke IR Thermo as the "standard".


hmm for use i need to use a resistor of 10kO in one of the ends then i need to measure the ohms in the "set" temperature like highest then mids and at freezing so i can calculate the 3 resistances for the reading..
the thread sensor was so slow to react to the source which was water between boiling, normal 25c and almost freezing to convert to ice... it wasnt even funny  so i decided to ditch that type of sensor and use the plug which was dead on an easier... i guess it takes longer to the temp to reach the sensor in the thread itself instead of the plug which is touching water more directly i guess...


----------



## Jpmboy

zGunBLADEz said:


> hmm for use i need to use a resistor of 10kO then i need to measure the ohms in the "set" temperature like highest then mids and at freezing so i can calculate the 3 resistances for the reading..
> the thread sensor was so slow to react to the source which was water between boiling, normal 25c and almost freezing to convert to ice... it wasnt even funny  so i decided to ditch that type of sensor and use the plug which was dead on an easier... i guess it takes longer to the temp to reach the sensor in the thread itself instead of the plug which is touching water more directly i guess...


been using these for a couple of years. So far, so good. They plug directly into an aquaero or a MB header.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Jpmboy said:


> been using these for a couple of years. So far, so good. They plug directly into an aquaero or a MB header.



gotcha, maybe the 2 phobyas i bought were bad its a possibility..
I use the one on asus mobos where T line is available... My dew controller is independent i didnt want to risk it  

i have to calibrate them by hand if im using them on arduino controller i wish it was that easy to be honest.... *thats where i notice they are not as sensitive as the plugs...*
calibrating one of those its a pita specially if you are like borderline temp sensitive 

I try offsetting them at first then i started trying them on the chiller by itself with the relay and everything and it wasn't matching the other calibrated sensors i was using along side including the bme280 for ambients and to get dewpoint which is pretty "accurate.." i swapped just the sensor to the T line with the another 10kOhm resistor recalibrate again did the numbers and it was dead on.


----------



## skupples

just remember, for whatever reason, all of those inline sensors are super delicate. don't be surprised if you break a couple.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

I'm only using Bitspower inline sensors in the HEDT and the Corsair-included unit that came with the D5 pump/res kit I used in the 9900ks + 2080Ti rig.

Both products seem to reliably work but I'm not sure how to check calibration. Anyone have a link I can learn how to do that with?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Here's the heatkiller goofy mount comparison again using avx offsets to adjust clocks
https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=329252&d=1582754589

Here's one with the heatkiller 4 pro mounted exactly the same way as the foundation 
I even did all core for each multiplier instead of 4.8 and using avx offsets to increase or decrease the clocks and HK still doesn't cool very well

In both tests max core temps speak for themselves which is better


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> just remember, for whatever reason, all of those inline sensors are super delicate. don't be surprised if you break a couple.


Ive had very good luck with the aquacomputer work with aquero 5 and 6, only thing is this particular one is digital and only works with aquabus. They sell a similar 2 pin but can vouch for those.

=/- 0.2C for the range I run them in. 
https://www.aquatuning.us/water-coo...p_USrhaQ79MXapNi5-gvKRKOkGP2KTgRoCO0IQAvD_BwE


----------



## skupples

I think i'm just gonna bite the bullet & find space for the highest end MIPS device next time around. retire all the two prongs, & my trusty old mechanical flow meter.


----------



## iamjanco

Jpmboy said:


> I'm currently using the aquacomputer in-line T sensors... tho they tend to fail at the 2-wire connection to the fitting if "mishandled".
> I've only done a 2 point calibration within the range I'd expect then to see... 5C to 45C using a Fluke IR Thermo as the "standard".


Hi Jpm--Do you happen to know the differences between the ~$10 T-Sensors and the more expensive Calitemp sensors other than the price and the need for the Aquabus connection in the case of the Calitemp? How about calibration methods, similarities, differences? --tia!


----------



## skupples

I can attest to build quality. the cheap ones are fragile, in my, and a few other's experiences(aquaero owner's club). idr the specifics of dialing them in anymore. aquasuite has come a long way in that regard.

many of them use the same 2 prong sensor,.


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> I think i'm just gonna bite the bullet & find space for the highest end MIPS device next time around. retire all the two prongs, & my trusty old mechanical flow meter.


Yeah bit that bullet two builds ago.
I like being able to see what my flow rate is in actual numbers, not just a hamster wheel turning and last build I had temp sensors all over the loop (in and out on every component and rad) just to see one thing. There is no difference once the loop is heated up so long as you have sufficient flow. Crappy flow and it will heat up exponentially as it travels through the loop. 

My temp difference between leaving the pumps, through CPU, up through 420 rad then back down to a pair of 2080Tis and measured before it goes into the big 480 in the bottom and up to skinny 360 in the front before return to res is 0.5C higher than when it left the pumps. using same calitemp digital monitors that for all I know could almost be within margin of error as they are +/- 0.2C so if one is high and the other is low then its really only 0.1C difference. 

Either way it simply proved its not a difference that amounts to a hill of beans so long as you have decent flow. I did cut back to a single D5 and it saw 1.2C difference and tuning that single back to half speed saw a difference of about 2C which still isnt all that bad. Seeing how I got all these rads with all these fans and 3 pumps may as well make my overkill work in overkill mode. 0.5C with fans usually less than 50% unless Im running a prolonged stress test and its hot in the room. 

May do a clean win install as over time my CB dropped a little. I did an optimized (unecessary services) killed and AV pauses run on exactly the same settings and lost a few points, was right on the verge of breaking 9000K and back just over 8600. Been a lot of install this, unistall that and only other thing is updated BIOS from 1603 with MC 49 to 2002 with MC 68 (Thanks @tistou77). Temps look better every day with the block though. Tried jacking to 4.9 and even 5GHz and got runs without crashing but scores went down. 4.8 seems to be my happy spot. 

Ill just have to be very bored as its a lot of work loading up everything else, like an entire weekend. Then finally got back to my top spot with TS and FS on this CPU anyhow. 

https://www.3dmark.com/search#/?mod.../P/2421&cpuName=Intel Core i9-9940X Processor

https://www.3dmark.com/search#/?mod.../P/2421&cpuName=Intel Core i9-9940X Processor

https://www.3dmark.com/search#/?mod.../R/2421&cpuName=Intel Core i9-9940X Processor

Nudged out a few points on TS Extreme

https://www.3dmark.com/search#/?mod.../X/2421&cpuName=Intel Core i9-9940X Processor


----------



## skupples

yep  i meant aqua's mechanical sensor though. 

I have one plug sensor (it just keeps not dying, so i keep using it) one inline sensor on the opposite side of the loop then 1x for external case temp, one for internal case temp, 1x on rad in, 1x on rad out.

this was done to help prove what you said above about temp shift inside the block. I'm sure there's some awesome science going on inside the blocks, but everywhere else flow & temp are essentially the same.


----------



## JustinThyme

iamjanco said:


> Hi Jpm--Do you happen to know the differences between the ~$10 T-Sensors and the more expensive Calitemp sensors other than the price and the need for the Aquabus connection in the case of the Calitemp? How about calibration methods, similarities, differences? --tia!


Accuracy in a nutshell. No calibration or offsets necessary on the calitemps. The $10 ones that look very similar but dont give temp specs for accuracy. I tried one for giggles and it reads about 1C higher in the same loop plugged into the same aquaero 6 pro just into one of the temp sensor outlets instead of aquabus. Offsets can be entered so if you have one calitemp you can calibrate the cheaper model to it.


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> yep  i meant aqua's mechanical sensor though.
> 
> I have one plug sensor (it just keeps not dying, so i keep using it) one inline sensor on the opposite side of the loop then 1x for external case temp, one for internal case temp, 1x on rad in, 1x on rad out.
> 
> this was done to help prove what you said above about temp shift inside the block. I'm sure there's some awesome science going on inside the blocks, but everywhere else flow & temp are essentially the same.


Yeah the aqua mechanical sensors work great. Then you have the others that you have to choke it back to half the G1/4 size just to get it to move. First one I tried was a BP and it was..... well....junk. Spin, then not spin then flow rates changing when it was spinning not to mention the restriction. Tested it for like a day and put the aquaero in. 

Using a barrowch now so I can see it through the case that has been reliable although I did have it in the loop with the aquaero and calibrated it to that before pulling the aquaero out that I will keep because its reliable. BarrowCh has been up for about a year now with no issues other than the calibration needed. It was reporting a lower flow rate by a pretty fair amount. I had checked the aqauero mechincal sensor against a high $$ mass flow sensor I borrowed and it was not perfect its pretty darn close, off by like .02L/M. 

The only reason Im anal about it is to make sure all my pumps are doing their jobs and know what the flow rate is with everything clean. See it drop and I know something is clogging up, specifically my filter thats thus far done its job. Just need to add valves before and after so I dont have to bleed the loop down below the filter to pull it and clean it out. Only did that twice though. Once a few weeks after brand new everything then about a week after the optimus block. Been fine since. Ill add the valves probably next time I bleed it down. Contemplating adding 240 0r 280 rad between main compartment and basement just because I already have the rads and fans and plenty of pipe and fittings. Just more surface area.

Thats if I dont say screw it and get a MoRa or a chiller.


----------



## tistou77

JustinThyme said:


> May do a clean win install as over time my CB dropped a little. I did an optimized (unecessary services) killed and AV pauses run on exactly the same settings and lost a few points, was right on the verge of breaking 9000K and back just over 8600. Been a lot of install this, unistall that and only other thing is updated BIOS from 1603 with MC 49 to 2002 with MC 68 (Thanks @tistou77). Temps look better every day with the block though. Tried jacking to 4.9 and even 5GHz and got runs without crashing but scores went down. 4.8 seems to be my happy spot.


You're welcome 

Do you have the same temperatures (cores) with 1603 (microcode 49) and 2002 (microcode 68) ?

I always have an increase of 5°, approximately


EDIT: ah but you have a 9940X, ok


----------



## criskoe

Hey guys. Thought here might be the best place to ask. Ive started to get some gear to put together my first WC loop. Was gunna just grab a $115 EK Velocity block and matching EK gpu block as it easily available and within my budget. But Ive been doing some reading and stumbled across Optimus WC blocks actually from a comment off a review site. And even not knowing really anything about watercooling it was clear just browsing their website their stuff is made VERY WELL. Obviously better then EK. That Signature V2 block looks pretty dam nice.

Then I came back down to reality. LOL. The more I researched the more my budget was beginning to swell out of control. And I realized I was getting out of hand and went back to my realistic budget. And then i came back to the EK gear. Looking at it with different eyes I had going in. Its very clear there is better stuff out there like these optimus blocks. Now I realize that many of you out there really dont like EK gear. And many of you are serious WC guys. But I was hoping for some honest advice. Im looking to get in and have some fun, cool my system a bit more and learn a few things. But I have to be realistic about funds for my other hobbies and responsibilities. I dont want to be consumed by WC my system. I cant constantly buy new gear for the fun of it to eek out a few degrees. As much as I would like to, Its just not available to me at this time. But only having one system and most likely will be my only system for a good while I want to do it decent. 

With that said. 

Being in Canada I can get my hands on a basic Velocity block for $115 cad and the Signature V2 being $240 CAD + Duty's and taxes. Im wondering if the signature V2 being built like a tank and better quality is worth it for a first time WC like myself. Im not looking to beak records either. I dont bench. I just play games and wanted to try to make my system a bit cooler and quieter. I get that asking people what to buy with a certain budget is kinda stupid and its clear which is a better product. I guess I just wanted to see if it was so much better that I would be stupid to not get it instead. Like realistically what temp differences will it make for a 9900KS @ 5.0-5.2? 

Thanks for any input guys. Appreciate it.


----------



## oreonutz

criskoe said:


> Hey guys. Thought here might be the best place to ask. Ive started to get some gear to put together my first WC loop. Was gunna just grab a $115 EK Velocity block and matching EK gpu block as it easily available and within my budget. But Ive been doing some reading and stumbled across Optimus WC blocks actually from a comment off a review site. And even not knowing really anything about watercooling it was clear just browsing their website their stuff is made VERY WELL. Obviously better then EK. That Signature V2 block looks pretty dam nice.
> 
> Then I came back down to reality. LOL. The more I researched the more my budget was beginning to swell out of control. And I realized I was getting out of hand and went back to my realistic budget. And then i came back to the EK gear. Looking at it with different eyes I had going in. Its very clear there is better stuff out there like these optimus blocks. Now I realize that many of you out there really dont like EK gear. And many of you are serious WC guys. But I was hoping for some honest advice. Im looking to get in and have some fun, cool my system a bit more and learn a few things. But I have to be realistic about funds for my other hobbies and responsibilities. I dont want to be consumed by WC my system. I cant constantly buy new gear for the fun of it to eek out a few degrees. As much as I would like to, Its just not available to me at this time. But only having one system and most likely will be my only system for a good while I want to do it decent.
> 
> With that said.
> 
> Being in Canada I can get my hands on a basic Velocity block for $115 cad and the Signature V2 being $240 CAD + Duty's and taxes. Im wondering if the signature V2 being built like a tank and better quality is worth it for a first time WC like myself. Im not looking to beak records either. I dont bench. I just play games and wanted to try to make my system a bit cooler and quieter. I get that asking people what to buy with a certain budget is kinda stupid and its clear which is a better product. I guess I just wanted to see if it was so much better that I would be stupid to not get it instead. Like realistically what temp differences will it make for a 9900KS @ 5.0-5.2?
> 
> Thanks for any input guys. Appreciate it.


It really comes down to what you are comfortable with. You definitely won't find many guys on this forum quick to jump at an EK Endorsement, for many reasons really, but I think it can be traced back to them just forgetting their roots and churning out products that are subpar, especially compared to what they were doing even a few years ago. Their attention to detail and passion has seemed to take a back seat to cost saving, and most of the seasoned guys here can tell. Optimus on the other hand has taken the exact opposite approach, and is doing everything they can to make their products as premium as possible.

The Difference on your 9900KeepSpending will be somewhere between a 3 to 6 degree difference depending on your exact setup, and if you are just gaming you probably would be just fine with either choice. It just comes down to at the end of the day if you are comfortable with settling for just good enough, or if you want the best you could get at the time of purchase. If it will be continually bugging you a month, 3 months, a year down the line, and you end up buying an Optimus anyway, then you might as well just get it now and save yourself the hassle. If your just going to slap it on, and be happy regardless, and you aren't drawing out every last degree, and will not give it another thought again, then just go with whatever is best for your wallet. Ultimately you are the only person you need to satisfy, so you have to look within to figure out what to do. Of course if you want someone to answer for you, then allow me to tell you to spend the extra money and get the better product, it is worth the cost IMO, but again, I am not you, so you have to go with what is best for you. Good Luck brother!


----------



## sakete

criskoe said:


> Hey guys. Thought here might be the best place to ask. Ive started to get some gear to put together my first WC loop. Was gunna just grab a $115 EK Velocity block and matching EK gpu block as it easily available and within my budget. But Ive been doing some reading and stumbled across Optimus WC blocks actually from a comment off a review site. And even not knowing really anything about watercooling it was clear just browsing their website their stuff is made VERY WELL. Obviously better then EK. That Signature V2 block looks pretty dam nice.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I came back down to reality. LOL. The more I researched the more my budget was beginning to swell out of control. And I realized I was getting out of hand and went back to my realistic budget. And then i came back to the EK gear. Looking at it with different eyes I had going in. Its very clear there is better stuff out there like these optimus blocks. Now I realize that many of you out there really dont like EK gear. And many of you are serious WC guys. But I was hoping for some honest advice. Im looking to get in and have some fun, cool my system a bit more and learn a few things. But I have to be realistic about funds for my other hobbies and responsibilities. I dont want to be consumed by WC my system. I cant constantly buy new gear for the fun of it to eek out a few degrees. As much as I would like to, Its just not available to me at this time. But only having one system and most likely will be my only system for a good while I want to do it decent.
> 
> 
> 
> With that said.
> 
> 
> 
> Being in Canada I can get my hands on a basic Velocity block for $115 cad and the Signature V2 being $240 CAD + Duty's and taxes. Im wondering if the signature V2 being built like a tank and better quality is worth it for a first time WC like myself. Im not looking to beak records either. I dont bench. I just play games and wanted to try to make my system a bit cooler and quieter. I get that asking people what to buy with a certain budget is kinda stupid and its clear which is a better product. I guess I just wanted to see if it was so much better that I would be stupid to not get it instead. Like realistically what temp differences will it make for a 9900KS @ 5.0-5.2?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any input guys. Appreciate it.


Or get the Foundation block, which is a lot more affordable than the Signature, while still being one of the best blocks out there.


----------



## criskoe

oreonutz said:


> It really comes down to what you are comfortable with. You definitely won't find many guys on this forum quick to jump at an EK Endorsement, for many reasons really, but I think it can be traced back to them just forgetting their roots and churning out products that are subpar, especially compared to what they were doing even a few years ago. Their attention to detail and passion has seemed to take a back seat to cost saving, and most of the seasoned guys here can tell. Optimus on the other hand has taken the exact opposite approach, and is doing everything they can to make their products as premium as possible.
> 
> The Difference on your 9900KeepSpending will be somewhere between a 3 to 6 degree difference depending on your exact setup, and if you are just gaming you probably would be just fine with either choice. It just comes down to at the end of the day if you are comfortable with settling for just good enough, or if you want the best you could get at the time of purchase. If it will be continually bugging you a month, 3 months, a year down the line, and you end up buying an Optimus anyway, then you might as well just get it now and save yourself the hassle. If your just going to slap it on, and be happy regardless, and you aren't drawing out every last degree, and will not give it another thought again, then just go with whatever is best for your wallet. Ultimately you are the only person you need to satisfy, so you have to look within to figure out what to do. Of course if you want someone to answer for you, then allow me to tell you to spend the extra money and get the better product, it is worth the cost IMO, but again, I am not you, so you have to go with what is best for you. Good Luck brother!


Hey thanks for the reply. 

Yeah I wasn’t expecting peeps to rush to EKs side. Lol. Not after reading through a few pages on this thread. I was hoping to just get a gauge of how much better temp wise over a EK block would be. Thanks for the 3-6 value. Helps me put it all in consideration. I see the better build quality and is very tempting. I wish they had a all blacked out signature V2. Lol. 

If the signature V2 is 3-6 degrees better, Would it be safe to say the foundation block vs the velocity block then would be pretty much the same give or take mounting inconsistencies but the value would be about build quality?

I realize fittings are fittings but anyone have issues running any certain brand fittings on their blocks? Sorry if that’s a real stupid question. Lol. 

Also how are their fittings? Anyone using them? If so what are you using for angles and still look ok with their fittings as well.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> Or get the Foundation block, which is a lot more affordable than the Signature, while still being one of the best blocks out there.


Hi,
Indeed maybe @Optimus WC will like the results nobody else has said anything 

My math is a little rusty but both these are pretty darn good and 5-7c better on one and 9c better on the other at 4.8 
Both static mounts like optimus blocks use.



Spoiler
























I never tested heatkiller 4 pro past 4.5 earlier
Clearly foundation handles high clocks better 



Spoiler


----------



## zGunBLADEz

it got a lil bit chilly so i decided to do a few suicide benches on cb

long story short the cpu took out one of my seasonic gold with him lol im laughing out loud here the peaks were almost 1khw

52x was the culprit lol


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> it got a lil bit chilly so i decided to do a few suicide benches on cb
> 
> long story short the cpu took out one of my seasonic gold with him lol im laughing out loud here the peaks were almost 1khw
> 
> 52x was the culprit lol


Hi,
Which water block ?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Which water block ?


v2 optimus 55f ambients


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Damn I hate seeing that much difference in core temps :wheee:


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Damn I hate seeing that much difference in core temps :wheee:


you aint seeing it tho XD

thats beyond suicide benching thats ln2 territory you aint sustaining that pull in a constant load lol


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
If you hadn't posted the screen shot I wouldn't of seen it.


----------



## Jpmboy

iamjanco said:


> Hi Jpm--Do you happen to know the differences between the ~$10 T-Sensors and the more expensive Calitemp sensors other than the price and the need for the Aquabus connection in the case of the Calitemp? How about calibration methods, similarities, differences? --tia!


Best to ask the AQ rep here at OCN (Sloggy?). AFAIK, you can only use the calitemp units with an Aquaero or aqbus (btw - which is the best hardware controller available). The 2 pin units work with the standard MB-type headers. I believe the thermocouple in the calitemp is a different type (eg, J, K, N etc).


zGunBLADEz said:


> it got a lil bit chilly so i decided to do a few suicide benches on cb
> long story short the cpu took out one of my seasonic gold with him lol im laughing out loud here the peaks were almost 1khw
> 52x was the culprit lol


Yeah, both my Seasonic 1300s ( two of them) and a Corsair HX1200i OCP'ed on me running this 10980XE + 2 2080Tis (380W bios). Changed to a AX1600i and all has been good. The AX1500i on my 7980XE + 3 Titan Vs rig has never choked, neither has the one in the R5E-10/6950X/ Radeon VII rig.
The 1600i runs a solid 800W 24/7, then when I play with things... 1300W+ hits the 12V lines. Wall power is not a concern. Home office is equipped with dedicated 20A service lines. :blinksmil


----------



## ThrashZone

Jpmboy said:


> Best to ask the AQ rep here at OCN (Sloggy?). AFAIK, you can only use the calitemp units with an Aquaero or aqbus (btw - which is the best hardware controller available). The 2 pin units work with the standard MB-type headers. I believe the thermocouple in the calitemp is a different type (eg, J, K, N etc).
> 
> Yeah, both my Seasonic 1300s ( two of them) and a Corsair HX1200i OCP'ed on me running this 10980XE + 2 2080Tis (380W bios). Changed to a AX1600i and all has been good. The AX1500i on my 7980XE + 3 Titan Vs rig has never choked, neither has the one in the R5E-10/6950X/ Radeon VII rig.
> The 1600i runs a solid 800W 24/7, then when I play with things... 1300W+ hits the 12V lines. Wall power is not a concern. Home office is equipped with dedicated 20A service lines. :blinksmil


Hi,
You swap back to the foundation on the omega yet ?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Jpmboy said:


> Yeah, both my Seasonic 1300s ( two of them) and a Corsair HX1200i OCP'ed on me running this 10980XE + 2 2080Tis (380W bios). Changed to a AX1600i and all has been good. The AX1500i on my 7980XE + 3 Titan Vs rig has never choked, neither has the one in the R5E-10/6950X/ Radeon VII rig.
> The 1600i runs a solid 800W 24/7, then when I play with things... 1300W+ hits the 12V lines. Wall power is not a concern. Home office is equipped with dedicated 20A service lines. /forum/images/smilies/blinksmiley.gif


you were tripping both at the same time?? damn bro lol no wonder the psu past to a better life with just the cpu... i started laughing because i remembered the comment from justinthyme...

I guess im going to have to pull some of this babys out for real that i got dirt cheap from the mining outrage. you can "daisy chain" them XD if they werent THAT LOUD i will use them as main psu with a pico psu for the 24pin... 2 of them is all is needed for a hedt with 2 high end gpus... they dont take that much space either..

Bought a few for $15 a pop very good for projects.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Might try adding couple 2080ti's and see what happens with power draw oc'ing them too


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Might try adding couple 2080ti's and see what happens with power draw oc'ing them too


had a 980ti that pulled almost 500w by herself tho XD


----------



## Jpmboy

zGunBLADEz said:


> you were tripping both at the same time?? damn bro lol no wonder the psu past to a better life with just the cpu... i started laughing because i remembered the comment from justinthyme...
> 
> I guess im going to have to pull some of this babys out for real that i got dirt cheap from the mining outrage. you can "daisy chain" them XD if they werent THAT LOUD i will use them as main psu with a pico psu for the 24pin... 2 of them is all is needed for a hedt with 2 high end gpus... they dont take that much space either..
> 
> Bought a few for $15 a pop very good for projects.


lol - I didn't have them running dual PSU. Just one at a time. Stopped doing that "add2psu" thing after tri-sli 780ti kingpins ( when 1800W was common!). But now that you mention it... :thinking:



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You swap back to the foundation on the omega yet ?


no... not had the time or will, yet.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Jpmboy said:


> lol - I didn't have them running dual PSU. Just one at a time. Stopped doing that "add2psu" thing after tri-sli 780ti kingpins ( when 1800W was common!). But now that you mention it... :thinking:


i dont see whats the issue i know you push lol

My issue is i want to crap alot of hardware in the smallest case possible that appeals to me lol for now is the TT VT 20 so no AX1600i its too "long" 
im using a seasonic 1050wtts there with a 7980xe and 2x1080tis it manage just fine if you use the right settings 24/7 vs suicide just takes switching 2 eps cables which are easy to access if it needs to be XD

big fan of matx and itx boards thats why i was kind of upset when i bought that "ROG strix z370" having maximus gene and impacts before... but asus decided to "cheap out" :/
also killed a psu using that board with the 8700k lol at least the asus itx z390 i got now is decent and can handle the 8700k without hiccups


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

zGunBLADEz said:


> i dont see whats the issue i know you push lol
> 
> My issue is i want to crap alot of hardware in the smallest case possible that appeals to me lol for now is the TT VT 20 so no AX1600i its too "long"
> im using a seasonic 1050wtts there with a 7980xe and 2x1080tis it manage just fine if you use the right settings 24/7 vs suicide just takes switching 2 eps cables which are easy to access if it needs to be XD
> 
> big fan of matx and itx boards thats why i was kind of upset when i bought that "ROG strix z370" having maximus gene and impacts before... but asus decided to "cheap out" :/
> also killed a psu using that board with the 8700k lol at least the asus itx z390 i got now is decent and can handle the 8700k without hiccups


What kind of watts were you pulling with the 7980xe and pair of 2080 Ti's ? I hit a power wall with a 1200w PSU with two shunt-modded Titan Xp's and the 6900k at full tilt which is what made me upgrade to a 1600w for the HEDT rig. Haven't had any issues yet with the 7960x or 10980xe and pair of shunt-modded Titan RTX. I think the highest wall draw that I've seen so far is just over 1300 watts.


----------



## Jpmboy

zGunBLADEz said:


> i dont see whats the issue i know you push lol
> 
> My issue is i want to crap alot of hardware in the smallest case possible that appeals to me lol for now is the TT VT 20 so no AX1600i its too "long"
> im using a seasonic 1050wtts there with a 7980xe and 2x1080tis it manage just fine if you use the right settings 24/7 vs suicide just takes switching 2 eps cables which are easy to access if it needs to be XD
> 
> big fan of matx and itx boards thats why i was kind of upset when i bought that "ROG strix z370" having maximus gene and impacts before... but asus decided to "cheap out" :/
> also killed a psu using that board with the 8700k lol at least the asus itx z390 i got now is decent and can handle the 8700k without hiccups


no issue. Just making sure you didn't think I OCP'ed two PSUs.


----------



## Kutalion

Some new info.


----------



## sakete

Kutalion said:


> Some new info.


This difference between the top 3 all seem to be within the margin of error. I'd go for the Foundation myself based on that.


----------



## criskoe

Kutalion said:


> Some new info.


Thanks for posting this. This was the exact info I wanted to see and was hoping to find. 

I contacted Optimus last night asking how long for a all black foundation to ship and received a response today saying late next week or the week after. I see some people here are still waiting for stuff said to be ready much earlier. Makes me wonder if 1-2 weeks really means in a month or longer.


----------



## sakete

criskoe said:


> Thanks for posting this. This was the exact info I wanted to see and was hoping to find.
> 
> 
> 
> I contacted Optimus last night asking how long for a all black foundation to ship and received a response today saying late next week or the week after. I see some people here are still waiting for stuff said to be ready much earlier. Makes me wonder if 1-2 weeks really means in a month or longer.


Yeah, add at least 3 months to their estimates, going off of what's been going on in this thread


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I got my foundation block within 2-3 days during their black friday sale. If you actually read the delays are for products that aren't released yet. 
They spend a lot of time perfecting their stuff, clearly they aren't a big manufacturer like EK that Still has stock issues like everyone else at times...
from what I have seen no one complains about things like plating flaking off or poor QC like they do with larger manufacturers.

You have to understand optimus is NOT some company that has been around for years building capital to blow.


----------



## Ashcroft

Kutalion said:


> Some new info.



Lol

and without doubling flow restriction.


----------



## ryan92084

Interesting that ek managed to "pull ahead" without anywhere near the restriction. Really wish VSG could bum a ryzen 3k system off someone.


----------



## tistou77

Since the Foundation is not really optimized for Rockit's IHS, maybe a Magnitude, but 200€ ....
But I will wait for tests with the 2066


----------



## criskoe

tatmMRKIV said:


> I got my foundation block within 2-3 days during their black friday sale. If you actually read the delays are for products that aren't released yet.
> They spend a lot of time perfecting their stuff, clearly they aren't a big manufacturer like EK that Still has stock issues like everyone else at times...
> from what I have seen no one complains about things like plating flaking off or poor QC like they do with larger manufacturers.
> 
> You have to understand optimus is NOT some company that has been around for years building capital to blow.


I for sure understand what you are saying. No doubt about it. So no argument there. I guess i just like it when a store or online retailer big or small shows right on their website if a item is actually available right away or not. Like "in stock". And if a item is not ready to ship right away labeled as "backorder" Defiantly not trying to be impatient or complain about them. Im just keen to see the importance there is transparency and accuracy to ETAs and expectations. Companies big or small benefit from such a small detail such as this. But dont get me wrong. Im sure they are doing their best.


----------



## skupples

sakete said:


> This difference between the top 3 all seem to be within the margin of error. I'd go for the Foundation myself based on that.


people will buy whats quickly available.I look forward to this being replicated by other folks, specially if they're truly doing it while maintaining WAY Better flow rates. (not that it actually matters for dual pump users, we resolved flow issues ages ago by adding more pumps)

EK's a large company. They had no excuse except laziness and greed to not resolve the years of nonsense.

seems they put 99% of their eyes on their AIO/kit game the last few years, while letting everything else suffer.

Too bad they didn't price this new block to move.


----------



## ThrashZone

Kutalion said:


> Some new info.
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Hi,
Too bad they only have a 9900k to test blocks on and don't have a HEDT to test which is pretty lame for a review.


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Too bad they only have a 9900k to test blocks on and don't have a HEDT to test which is pretty lame for a review.


too bad that won't matter to 99% of buyers.

if the EK solution looks prettier to them, and will show up faster, it's what they'll get. I mean, maybe optimus could use the reprieve though, so they can finally catch up and cross some stuff off the to do list.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> too bad that won't matter to 99% of buyers.
> 
> if the EK solution looks prettier to them, and will show up faster, it's what they'll get. I mean, maybe optimus could use the reprieve though, so they can finally catch up and cross some stuff off the to do list.


Hi,
Think my testing was pretty obvious that just the foundation is a ton better than the narrow review they gave 

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-205.html#post28347136


----------



## iamjanco

Jpmboy said:


> Best to ask the AQ rep here at OCN (Sloggy?). AFAIK, you can only use the calitemp units with an Aquaero or aqbus (btw - which is the best hardware controller available). The 2 pin units work with the standard MB-type headers. I believe the thermocouple in the calitemp is a different type (eg, J, K, N etc).


thanks for the response :thumb: Unfortunately, while he seems to check in regularly, I think @Shoggy stopped posting here for a while now (hasn't posted publicly here since 11-28-2018). Might be associated with the drop in membership from before VerticalDope, but who knows. Could have been [email protected] he got from someone too, you know how some can be here (if you know what I mean).

anyways, I do have both the full XT and LT versions of the AQ6 on hand, as well as a couple of Quadros. even got a number of poweradjust3s, the ultra versions. I'll make something work.


----------



## criskoe

skupples said:


> too bad that won't matter to 99% of buyers.
> 
> if the EK solution looks prettier to them, and will show up faster, it's what they'll get. I mean, maybe optimus could use the reprieve though, so they can finally catch up and cross some stuff off the to do list.


There is alot of truth in this statement. I came to this thread to nudge me over to getting a optimus block VS a normal velocity one. The quality is clearly better so the extra cost is worth it I see. I basically had my mind up. But then found out that the foundation block wouldnt ship out right away. Was told in a week or two. which would be fine but after reading through this thread I worry it might be longer. They are busy. I get that. Defiantly not trying to be a impatient customer but I dont want to wait a long time. So im now back to contemplating just going with a EK Velocity.


----------



## skupples

criskoe said:


> There is alot of truth in this statement. I came to this thread to nudge me over to getting a optimus block VS a normal velocity one. The quality is clearly better so the extra cost is worth it I see. I basically had my mind up. But then found out that the foundation block wouldnt ship out right away. Was told in a week or two. which would be fine but after reading through this thread I worry it might be longer. They are busy. I get that. Defiantly not trying to be a impatient customer but I dont want to wait a long time. So im now back to contemplating just going with a EK Velocity.


yeah well, some of us are still waiting on 2080ti blocks with ampere supposedly starting in march. ( i was expecting LJM showing off a 3080ti @ computex but we'll see)

idk how I feel about my velocity. never took the time to do the research outside of dropping it on, checking my temps, & going about my business. I guess the plastic jet plates are how they're keeping flow rates so high?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Only item causing restriction on either of the optimus blocks is the center o-rings 
Anything that adds impressions like this is intruding into the water flow and slowing water down
I've trimmed flush both on mine blocks and just left it alone on the ends

https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=327790&d=1582195824


----------



## Jpmboy

iamjanco said:


> thanks for the response :thumb: Unfortunately, while he seems to check in regularly, I think @Shoggy stopped posting here for a while now (hasn't posted publicly here since 11-28-2018). Might be associated with the drop in membership from before VerticalDope, but who knows. Could have been [email protected] he got from someone too, *you know how some can be here (if you know what I mean)*.
> anyways, I do have both the full XT and LT versions of the AQ6 on hand, as well as a couple of Quadros. even got a number of poweradjust3s, the ultra versions. I'll make something work.


Never noticed. 
lol - verticaldop. +1
Loks like you got the gear needed to make either the calitemp or 2-pin thermocouple work. 


skupples said:


> yeah well, some of us are still waiting on 2080ti blocks with ampere supposedly starting in march. ( i was expecting LJM showing off a 3080ti @ computex but we'll see)
> idk how I feel about my velocity. never took the time to do the research outside of dropping it on, checking my temps, & going about my business. I guess the plastic jet plates are how they're keeping flow rates so high?


Computex? you are a hopeful kinda guy, aren't you. :worriedsm


----------



## skupples

Jpmboy said:


> Never noticed.
> lol - verticaldop. +1
> Loks like you got the gear needed to make either the calitemp or 2-pin thermocouple work.
> 
> Computex? you are a hopeful kinda guy, aren't you. :worriedsm


yeah, i'm hoping these new consoles coming gives NV a reason to drop things earlier in the year. 

even if LJM shows it @ computex, only 3080 will come out the next day


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> yeah, i'm hoping these new consoles coming gives NV a reason to drop things earlier in the year.
> 
> even if LJM shows it @ computex, only *3080 will come out the next day*


Hi,
Hope so seeing I need a gpu but 3080 no 3080ti more likely.
If one ever does surface evga most likely and they will always serve up a hydro copper


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> yeah, i'm hoping these new consoles coming gives NV a reason to drop things earlier in the year.
> 
> even if LJM shows it @ computex, only 3080 will come out the next day


I really don't know if computex will happen this year. Most of the trade shows are cancelled or going to be up to May. Its looking like GDC is about to be cancelled. E3 is the big test point, if E3 decides to cancel, then Computex will be cancelled for sure. I think we are going to see permanent move to web streaming presentation in the future. This is one of the long term effects. 

The only good thing is if the release is late 2020/early 2021 is I can time it with my whole rebuild based on Intel 7nm. That and assuming the emergency bill/budget passes and no changes in redemption from the last cash handout in 2011, I got free spending cash coming from the government. Enough to cover probably 80-90% of 3080TI and water block. For the record, I prefer the money actually go help the people who actually need it but oh well.


----------



## Jpmboy

Section31 said:


> I really don't know if computex will happen this year. Most of the trade shows are cancelled or going to be up to May. Its looking like GDC is about to be cancelled. E3 is the big test point, if E3 decides to cancel, then Computex will be cancelled for sure. I think we are going to see permanent move to web streaming presentation in the future. This is one of the long term effects.
> 
> The only good thing is if the release is late 2020/early 2021 is I can time it with my whole rebuild based on Intel 7nm. That and assuming the emergency bill/budget passes and no changes in redemption from the last cash handout in 2011, *I got free spending cash coming from the government*. Enough to cover probably 80-90% of 3080TI and water block. For the record,* I prefer the money actually go help the people who actually need it but oh well*.


:tiredsmil


----------



## iamjanco

^you and me both, jp.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

I'm not sure about Ampere Titans vs just waiting for the Kingpin 3080 Ti since I don't need 10 petabytes of VRAM.

Hopefully Optimus will get their stuff together by the time that decision needs to be made, but either way I'll need a new case sticker to replace the questionably-legal Titan RTX sticker I had made for the current HEDT build.


----------



## skupples

i wasn't expecting anything good until the end of the year.

people discussing a March launch gotta realize something dinky is likely coming first.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I've waited this long end of 2020 is nothing


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Kalm_Traveler said:


> What kind of watts were you pulling with the 7980xe and pair of 2080 Ti's ? I hit a power wall with a 1200w PSU with two shunt-modded Titan Xp's and the 6900k at full tilt which is what made me upgrade to a 1600w for the HEDT rig. Haven't had any issues yet with the 7960x or 10980xe and pair of shunt-modded Titan RTX. I think the highest wall draw that I've seen so far is just over 1300 watts.


my 7980xe is running at 1.16mV 24/7 10 cores at 47x the rest at 46x no avx offset just avx512 at 5. 1080tis when in use and i can use sli i run them at 0.800mV my main 1080ti does 2100 at 0.96mV i can get higher for gaming as the cpu aint been used as much... also i disable ht and run pure cores on games at a higher multi.. ht is such a waste wattage wise lol and you dont need 36threads but can benefit out of the real cores which you have 18 of them...

... Highest draw i had seen aroundish 800-900w from the wall in regular day to day usage.. most of the time is just the cpu + 1 gpu in games which is not stressing the system... even in handbrake using cuda....
if i need power i unplug the 2 eps and connect a second psu which in my case is very easy to do......


----------



## zGunBLADEz

sakete said:


> This difference between the top 3 all seem to be within the margin of error. I'd go for the Foundation myself based on that.


that chart can be called margin of error all of those blocks at this point...

now add a distro plate plus that ek block and bye bye flow lol



> Intel Core i9-9900K to be consuming north of 200 W in this test, which is still far lower than most HEDT CPUs that can consume more than twice as much.


ermmmm can do 200w+ with a 8700k alone 

and the 7940x temps looks way better to me than the 8700k temps to be honest considering the size of the die and is running 8 cores more... and 2x+ the draw


----------



## JustinThyme

iamjanco said:


> ^you and me both, jp.


Make the 3. No such thing as free cash from the government. The government doesn't have any money. I only have one barrel though but it has a bump stock.


----------



## JustinThyme

Kalm_Traveler said:


> What kind of watts were you pulling with the 7980xe and pair of 2080 Ti's ? I hit a power wall with a 1200w PSU with two shunt-modded Titan Xp's and the 6900k at full tilt which is what made me upgrade to a 1600w for the HEDT rig. Haven't had any issues yet with the 7960x or 10980xe and pair of shunt-modded Titan RTX. I think the highest wall draw that I've seen so far is just over 1300 watts.


A pair of 2080Tis and a 9940X surpasses a 1200W for me by a few hundred watts. I push a 1600W nearly to its limits. I think a 1500W would be at its limits and possibly overloaded. Ive done CPU only overclock runs with realbench and luxmark CPU stress test with Handbrake and blender and pulled very bit of 900W from the wall. CPU only. Not that Id ever hammer it that hard with any practical purpose but it will pull it all day long. Add a pair of 2080Tis to that.....Ive not found any bench that will hammer all 3 hard simultaneously. I just know that I literaly heard a 1500W PSU started screaming at me to back da futt off.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

zGunBLADEz said:


> my 7980xe is running at 1.16mV 24/7 10 cores at 47x the rest at 46x no avx offset just avx512 at 5. 1080tis when in use and i can use sli i run them at 0.800mV my main 1080ti does 2100 at 0.96mV i can get higher for gaming as the cpu aint been used as much... also i disable ht and run pure cores on games at a higher multi.. ht is such a waste wattage wise lol and you dont need 36threads but can benefit out of the real cores which you have 18 of them...
> 
> ... Highest draw i had seen aroundish 800-900w from the wall in regular day to day usage.. most of the time is just the cpu + 1 gpu in games which is not stressing the system... even in handbrake using cuda....
> if i need power i unplug the 2 eps and connect a second psu which in my case is very easy to do......


when you say you can run it at 1.16mV, do you mean 1.16V or have I misunderstood CPU voltages all this time and when they say volts they actually mean millivolts ? 1.16mV would be I think 0.0116 volts.

In any case that sounds about right on wattage from the wall for normal use. I can get the UPS to read above 1000w in games that use both Titans but it's usually more like 800-900 as you said.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Kalm_Traveler said:


> when you say you can run it at 1.16mV, do you mean 1.16V or have I misunderstood CPU voltages all this time and when they say volts they actually mean millivolts ? 1.16mV would be I think 0.0116 volts.
> 
> In any case that sounds about right on wattage from the wall for normal use. I can get the UPS to read above 1000w in games that use both Titans but it's usually more like 800-900 as you said.


i always call it mV i dont bother too much putting all the numbers on it. to me usually is x.xxmV but yeah v would be the right way XD


----------



## mgoldb2

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> In any case, now we're past those issues and into production. Threadripper is being made right now and once production is stable, we'll do GPU production.


Now that the Threadripper waterblock is in production, does that mean you expect the first batch to ship to customers within the next 7 days (by march 7th) or will it take longer then that to produce them?


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

JustinThyme said:


> A pair of 2080Tis and a 9940X surpasses a 1200W for me by a few hundred watts. I push a 1600W nearly to its limits. I think a 1500W would be at its limits and possibly overloaded. Ive done CPU only overclock runs with realbench and luxmark CPU stress test with Handbrake and blender and pulled very bit of 900W from the wall. CPU only. Not that Id ever hammer it that hard with any practical purpose but it will pull it all day long. Add a pair of 2080Tis to that.....Ive not found any bench that will hammer all 3 hard simultaneously. I just know that I literaly heard a 1500W PSU started screaming at me to back da futt off.


ooh wow - what core voltage do you have set for your 9940x?


----------



## TheFrknPope

tistou77 said:


> Since the Foundation is not really optimized for Rockit's IHS, maybe a Magnitude, but 200â‚¬ ....
> But I will wait for tests with the 2066 /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif


 a little unrelated but i just received my ultra flat block on the v2. I’ll be firing everything up in a week or so and I’ll let you know how it performs . Wish I had the funds to compare it to the foundation as well. And yes I am using a rockit ihs.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I've waited this long end of 2020 is nothing /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


Im in same boat. Cyberpunk 2077 is going to be played on the 2080ti it appears. 

That and im now starting to look into upgrading an early 2000s crestron home automation system with Lutron lights and blinds. Having issues with touch screen panels dying and finding brand new replacement are tough now. Eventually the other parts of the system will have same issue. Old stuff eventually runs out of stock and i dont have background to do diy solution. I read they offer cpu upgrades and things have simplified a lot sincethen and they have phone apps now. Also gives us ability to better integrate new features. I figure if works just with an cpu upgrade, its something worth doing. Its either tear out whole system when it dies or start incremental upgrade path. Already going to upgrade the lutron module so we can now control the lights through an app and also can expand the controls to all lights and blinds in the house.

That is going to one big project in planning and time consuming. Also more on the fun side too. Hoping to do it without an installer.


----------



## skupples

JustinThyme said:


> Make the 3. No such thing as free cash from the government. The government doesn't have any money. I only have one barrel though but it has a bump stock.


hey, thanks for some of my money back! (said every american, once a year, during tax season) 

buy low, sell high. all i know.

also, distro plates nuke flow? more reasons why the old salty dogs didn't ever wanna provide flow rates in their super fancy single pump distro plate builds


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> JustinThyme said:
> 
> 
> 
> Make the 3. No such thing as free cash from the government. The government doesn't have any money. I only have one barrel though but it has a bump stock.
> 
> 
> 
> hey, thanks for some of my money back! (said every american, once a year, during tax season)
> 
> buy low, sell high. all i know.
> 
> also, distro plates nuke flow? more reasons why the old salty dogs didn't ever wanna provide flow rates in their super fancy single pump distro plate builds /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Click to expand...

Don’t we say that all. I seem to be paying more tax every year despite my employment income being low. Mainly related to the investment income i receive from family wealth management investment with banks. I have seen the returns and there so called wealth management is not as advertised. Marginal returns with high management fees. IHowever, i dont’ know what to invest in anymore honestly as nothing with guaranteed long term viability (will survive say ww3 and economic collapse) exists. 

The us has it pretty descent. I prepare canadian tax returns for clients and the government has been cutting taxable benefits like crazy. The government is still running massive deficits so they got to find ways to raise more tax dollarss but look good. Hence the anti-housing speculation taxes, higher tax brackets for cars and the recent tax on carbonated drinks.


----------



## skupples

Canada went full ****** & started extra taxing bubbles? interesting.

that one reason alone is why no one will take Bloomberg serious, even though he's really good at using his money to fund grass roots stuff. anywhoo. we should curb that, before ocn curbs it for us.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> Canada went full ****** & started extra taxing bubbles? interesting.
> 
> that one reason alone is why no one will take Bloomberg serious, even though he's really good at using his money to fund grass roots stuff.


I like living in Canada but the government is stupid and its hard for the average person to make money here.

I regret when i was an kid and gave up on learning putunghua and traditional chinese writing and reading. If so, I probably would have been one of the many western born/raised asians that returned to hong kong to earn an living. 

It is possible to make an good living there. However work culture there is stressful and important you get along with all your co-worker's. You got to join there events even if you have no interest in it.

One of the major criticism they have about western raised chinese and why they prefer local or mainland china staff. We value work life balance, we tend to complain more about work things and we don’t fit the way/understand how you deal with cliental from mainland china.


----------



## Kashtan

EKWB strike back.


----------



## ryan92084

As usual, take the politics somewhere else


----------



## dwolvin

I'm glad to see competition always, but TPU is willing to call .1 degree a measurable difference? That's some supreme confidence.

And that's a hella ecpensive block, but I do like the lower resistance.


----------



## Keith Myers

I ordered another Foundation block on the 20th. They shipped it the 24th. Installed it the 26th.


----------



## tistou77

TheFrknPope said:


> a little unrelated but i just received my ultra flat block on the v2. I’ll be firing everything up in a week or so and I’ll let you know how it performs . Wish I had the funds to compare it to the foundation as well. And yes I am using a rockit ihs.


Yes, V2 looks good for IHS Rockit compared to Foundation


----------



## ThrashZone

dwolvin said:


> I'm glad to see competition always, but TPU is willing to call .1 degree a measurable difference? That's some supreme confidence.
> 
> And that's a hella ecpensive block, but I do like the lower resistance.


Hi,
Restriction is easy to solve 
Just shave the center o-ring flush with the top so these marks are gone except for the ends where it's smooth.


----------



## skupples

makes me wonder why they haven't used their custom gasket skillz they've mentioned to do just that. resolution? hmmm

have you clocked a flow difference? I kinda glaze over when people start discussing bios & bench #s of chips I've never driven.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> makes me wonder why they haven't used their custom gasket skillz they've mentioned to do just that. resolution? hmmm
> 
> have you clocked a flow difference? I kinda glaze over when people start discussing bios & bench #s of chips I've never driven.


Hi,
I've mentioned the center gasket countless times 
I don't believe user optimus wc designs the items and doesn't seem to notice the "obvious to me" that if there are marks being left on the o-ring "pretty deep at that" the cold plate is being flattened out and the o-ring is going past the top of the cooling fins narrowing the water path and causing restriction.

Simple solution 
I'm sure they did this to cause a pressure point 
Problem is the o-ring is too big or tightening is too much take your pick.

Only flow indicator I have is reservoir activity and it's more shaving the o-ring.


----------



## skupples

yes, i caught all that, but do you a measure a difference in flow by shaving it down, and if so, results?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I edited and added reservoir activity is my only way to tell flow and yes it's more shaving the o-ring flush except for the little on the ends.


----------



## skupples

ah. damn shame.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I don't think they counted on the block flattening out so much to where marks would even be in the middle of the o-ring frankly 
And why would there be marks unless the cold plate flattened out completely thus no more bow.

That is why I lapped the sig demo block too much bow up against my chip.


----------



## Section31

I read the ekwb review also very interesting too. The ekwb magnitude is not cheap though. Still wouldn’t buy ekwb after all the bad experiences i had with them. One too many involving leaking xe radiator, easily damaged g1/4 threads on tube reservoir and the leaking aio predators

I hope this pushes us towards more cooperation between cpu designers and water block makers. That might yield us even better performing blocks. The impression i get is with each shrink in micronode (28 to 14 to 12 to 7nm and soon 5nm), the chips still generate heat faster than we can cool the chip down. Though that leads to the other question, these new chips generation overclocking gains are so damn minimal/not practical longterm. That extra 100mhz generates lot more voltage and thus temperature increase drastically.

Hopefully optimus does get its product lineup out soon. Patiently waiting for them to release there metric fittings so can place the big order thats coming. Its for three rigs involving two foundation amd blocks, four orders of 6 pack of 12mm hard tube fittings and two orders of the 3/8 soft tube fittings.


----------



## Section31

With the optimus i could get the 3950x running at 4.3ghz and possibly 4.4ghz at acceptable temperature (80degrees). However for my daily usage i prefer running it at 4.2ghz with lower voltage (1.15-1.2volts) and lower temperatures. 

I do appreciate the lower drop in temperature from the optimus as it allows me that extra 100mhz with less concern of degradation. Its concerning hearing reports of degradation of ryzen ocs set around 1.30volts.


----------



## JustinThyme

Kashtan said:


> EKWB strike back.


Yeah, been involved in a convo with this elsewhere with a bunch of EK fans. I like Techpowerup for a general over view but look back at their Data. Some of it is very old and their controlled condition isnt so controlled. We all knew that there would be a spark in the industry and its a good thing. I asked EK to send me a sample. No reply. Also asked for a run on HEDT and again, no reply. AIDA 64 with 1GPM doesnt cut it on a high restriction block. I found that out myself just by redoing my loop a bit and dropped my high temp 5C.


----------



## Bart

Optimus CPU block update, since I finally got around to installing it!

Block specs: Optimus Foundation, acrylic, Pro-XE nickel finish, black aluminum mounting plate, springless mounts
Rig specs (that matter): Ryzen 3900x on Gigabyte Aorus Master, 2080ti with HeatKiller GPU block, Kingpin KPx paste, custom loop, dual D5 variable pumps both set to max speed, radiator overkill.

First off, the flow hype is REAL. I've used these Barrow flow meters quite a bit (I think I have 4 of them). I've NEVER seen one read a flow rate this high. I have no idea if the number is accurate, but it's reading damn near 9LPM:



Second, even though I hated the mounts since they don't use the AM4 back plate, I'm ok with them now. Temps are good, just under 60C max under full load (59C, but load is usually 57-58). I still prefer the Heatkiller mounts for AM4, but these mounts wouldn't be a sticking point.










I had to flip the block 180 degrees since the flow comes into the top port of the CPU. In the reversing, the bloody o-ring for the block would NOT re-seat properly. The block is so new the o-ring hadn't been 'trained' yet (note the top right corner of the pic below). I prefer Heatkiller (again) in this regard, since there's a channel cut into the acrylic for the o-ring. But it's not leaking yet, and that's all that matters.










This rig is basically cobbled together from the fittings collection, as there's 3 different fittings in this pic (Darkside, EK, and Bitspower) LOL:










In summary, it's a damn nice piece, performs well, and the flow is unreal. The end.


----------



## Section31

Bart said:


> Optimus CPU block update, since I finally got around to installing it!
> 
> Block specs: Optimus Foundation, acrylic, Pro-XE nickel finish, black aluminum mounting plate, springless mounts
> Rig specs (that matter): Ryzen 3900x on Gigabyte Aorus Master, 2080ti with HeatKiller GPU block, Kingpin KPx paste, custom loop, dual D5 variable pumps both set to max speed, radiator overkill.
> 
> First off, the flow hype is REAL. I've used these Barrow flow meters quite a bit (I think I have 4 of them). I've NEVER seen one read a flow rate this high. I have no idea if the number is accurate, but it's reading damn near 9LPM:
> 
> 
> 
> Second, even though I hated the mounts since they don't use the AM4 back plate, I'm ok with them now. Temps are good, just under 60C max under full load (59C, but load is usually 57-58). I still prefer the Heatkiller mounts for AM4, but these mounts wouldn't be a sticking point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to flip the block 180 degrees since the flow comes into the top port of the CPU. In the reversing, the bloody o-ring for the block would NOT re-seat properly. The block is so new the o-ring hadn't been 'trained' yet (note the top right corner of the pic below). I prefer Heatkiller (again) in this regard, since there's a channel cut into the acrylic for the o-ring. But it's not leaking yet, and that's all that matters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This rig is basically cobbled together from the fittings collection, as there's 3 different fittings in this pic (Darkside, EK, and Bitspower) LOL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In summary, it's a damn nice piece, performs well, and the flow is unreal. The end.


Nice results. I am curious whats your setup amd settings. I have an 3900x with same mobo with cpu loop only. I found the 3900x with hero viii was cooler but it benchmark scores were lower. I am not too familiar with gigabyte bios you can say. Setup is single d5 next (heatkiller tube d5) and hwl gtr360.


----------



## Bart

Section31 said:


> Nice results. I am curious whats your setup amd settings. I have an 3900x with same mobo with cpu loop only. I found the 3900x with hero viii was cooler but it benchmark scores were lower. I am not too familiar with gigabyte bios you can say. Setup is single d5 next (heatkiller tube d5) and hwl gtr360.


I haven't done much tweaking with my 3900X, so basically it's just XMP with G.Skill TridentZ Neo 16GB x 2 3600mhz CL16-16-16-36. Right now there are two 88mm Alphacool Monsta 360 rads in the pedestal, a slim 360 above the motherboard, and a slim 240 in the front with a Heatkiller 150ml tube. I just got the ram recently, so I haven't done much benchmarking / temperature testing yet.


----------



## Section31

Thats nice results. Always been curious whats more rads will do to ryzen temperatures. That and extra pump as i have the excess parts required for an second pump. Been thinking of doing dual pump based loop if there’s improvement in temperatures. Looking forward to more of your testing results.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah, been involved in a convo with this elsewhere with a bunch of EK fans. I like Techpowerup for a general over view but look back at their Data. Some of it is very old and their controlled condition isnt so controlled.
> We all knew that there would be a spark in the industry and its a good thing. *I asked EK to send me a sample. No reply. Also asked for a run on HEDT and again, no reply.* AIDA 64 with 1GPM doesnt cut it on a high restriction block. I found that out myself just by redoing my loop a bit and dropped my high temp 5C.


Hi,
Never hurts to ask for a sample 
I guess everyone is waiting for the cheaper 10 version hedt to jump on or just stuck on gaming 9900k's at tpu.
Guess Techpowerup is on a very limited budget.

256.00 for the cheapest 2066 copper & acetal 
I do know once you log in over on ek site price drops, no telling how much on this maybe -30.00 ?

Still though guess they see a market for this price scheme I mean just by techpowerup testing numbers it's just a fraction of a celsius 
EK-----------39.55c = 256.19
SigV2-------39.65c = 180.00
Foundation 39.80c = 119.00


----------



## Kana Chan

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah, been involved in a convo with this elsewhere with a bunch of EK fans. I like Techpowerup for a general over view but look back at their Data. Some of it is very old and their controlled condition isnt so controlled. We all knew that there would be a spark in the industry and its a good thing. I asked EK to send me a sample. No reply. Also asked for a run on HEDT and again, no reply. AIDA 64 with 1GPM doesnt cut it on a high restriction block. I found that out myself just by redoing my loop a bit and dropped my high temp 5C.


youtube.com/watch?v=aVLuKqfyVyw#t=8m33s

Couldn't they use 5.2ghz/1.41v for the 9900K if a CLC can do it? A D5+waterblock shouldn't have issues doing the same? The ram setting in that test was only 3000 16-18-18 instead of 4000C16.


----------



## Kutalion

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah, been involved in a convo with this elsewhere with a bunch of EK fans. I like Techpowerup for a general over view but look back at their Data. Some of it is very old and their controlled condition isnt so controlled. We all knew that there would be a spark in the industry and its a good thing. I asked EK to send me a sample. No reply. Also asked for a run on HEDT and again, no reply. AIDA 64 with 1GPM doesnt cut it on a high restriction block. I found that out myself just by redoing my loop a bit and dropped my high temp 5C.


I've talked to colleagues and we'll be happy to provide a sample to test if your testing methodology is sound. We're very confident in numbers, as we've in house tested them for months. 
If you can provide the testing methodology that you've used on previous benches and it satisfies, you'll be given a block to test out. 

We will even ignore the "EK copies Barrow blocks" claim you had in the past, and hope you'll do an unbiased test 

While our testing showed even better results than TPU review did, if you ask me TPU has the most professional and best testing methodology in the business right now. VSG started on this forum, made his own website and ended up in TPU due to his proficiency and flawless testing.

Anyway, to cut this short, you can send me a private message not to hijack this thread any more. I'll be making an official thread soon enough.



Kana Chan said:


> youtube.com/watch?v=aVLuKqfyVyw#t=8m33s
> 
> Couldn't they use 5.2ghz/1.41v for the 9900K if a CLC can do it? A D5+waterblock shouldn't have issues doing the same? The ram setting in that test was only 3000 16-18-18 instead of 4000C16.



Not sure how ram speed would affect anything really. Sure, it will get a couple of watts more from the IMC, but it's really not a biggy. Depends on the workload you're doing. Anyway, the point is to compare the blocks, the heat load is enough as is. If you overclock it more, the difference wil be higher.


----------



## tistou77

@Optimus WC

Have you planned a flat cold plate for Foundation (for IHS Rockit) ?


----------



## skupples

Section31 said:


> Thats nice results. Always been curious whats more rads will do to ryzen temperatures. That and extra pump as i have the excess parts required for an second pump. Been thinking of doing dual pump based loop if there’s improvement in temperatures. Looking forward to more of your testing results.


more flow = more better! 

seriously though... if you're cooling every last component, you want the all the pump you can get. 

when not feeding a ton of GPUs, I see no temp gains after ~1.5GPM, with lots of GPUs, ~2 before temp gains fall off. while it'll be slightly different from block to block, but in a big loop, you can't go wrong with more pumps


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah I want to make a flex seal boat and power it with dual D5's


----------



## skupples

now that's some southern' ingenuity

I was thinking about finishing my workbench in flexseal paint  but it probably stinks.


----------



## Optimus WC

tistou77 said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Have you planned a flat cold plate for Foundation (for IHS Rockit) ?


We can easily do it  we'll just want to make sure people aren't confused about the options. For the Foundation, it's a replacement top that creates the bow (or lack of bow), not the cold plate itself.


----------



## tistou77

Optimus WC said:


> We can easily do it  we'll just want to make sure people aren't confused about the options. For the Foundation, it's a replacement top that creates the bow (or lack of bow), not the cold plate itself.


And so it's possible to have a flat cold plate with the top acrylic ?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Too bad they aren't easily adjustable 
I could of used some builtin adjustments on the sigV2 demo to fit my 9940x better 
It does now but it wasn't all that easy


----------



## skupples

isn't that what aquacomputer's block does, that no one else's does? fine adjustment?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I've never had one so IDK
Only ek has the switchable razor blade jets that I've seen.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Restriction is easy to solve
> Just shave the center o-ring flush with the top so these marks are gone except for the ends where it's smooth.


you tried without it tho???


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> you tried without it tho???


Hi,
No 
I tried HK 4 pro without it's two straight o-rings and it was ugly so I figured it would be the same for sigV2 demo and foundation too
On the HK 4 pro it keeps the water flowing in line with the cooling fins instead of shooting sideways off them 

Only can see one of them here kind of weird but I guess that is enough to get the idea if you've never noticed them


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> No
> I tried HK 4 pro without it's two straight o-rings and it was ugly so I figured it would be the same for sigV2 demo and foundation too
> On the HK 4 pro it keeps the water flowing in line with the cooling fins instead of shooting sideways off them
> 
> Only can see one of them here kind of weird but I guess that is enough to get the idea if you've never noticed them


yeah but might as well try it.... you are in that path to see what you get out without having it tho...

you have the data for normal and shimmed i dont thats why i asked..


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> yeah but might as well try it.... you are in that path to see what you get out without having it tho...
> 
> you have the data for normal and shimmed i dont thats why i asked..


Hi,
Yeah maybe later optimus said they didn't see any noticeable difference without the o-ring

If I hadn't already done it with on HK 4 pro "by accident actually" I would of probably tried it but I just altered the o-ring and it worked well and got rid of most of the flow restriction in the process.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah maybe later *optimus said they didn't see any noticeable difference without the o-ring*
> 
> If I hadn't already done it with on HK 4 pro "by accident actually" I would of probably tried it but I just altered the o-ring and it worked well and got rid of most of the flow restriction in the process.


well, im here waiting for @OptimusWC on that ultra flat he offered for testing..


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah it's too bad the optimus blocks are not adjustable like ek blocks are with the switchable razor blade jet plates.


----------



## JustinThyme

Kutalion said:


> I've talked to colleagues and we'll be happy to provide a sample to test if your testing methodology is sound. We're very confident in numbers, as we've in house tested them for months.
> If you can provide the testing methodology that you've used on previous benches and it satisfies, you'll be given a block to test out.
> 
> We will even ignore the "EK copies Barrow blocks" claim you had in the past, and hope you'll do an unbiased test
> 
> While our testing showed even better results than TPU review did, if you ask me TPU has the most professional and best testing methodology in the business right now. VSG started on this forum, made his own website and ended up in TPU due to his proficiency and flawless testing.
> 
> Anyway, to cut this short, you can send me a private message not to hijack this thread any more. I'll be making an official thread soon enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure how ram speed would affect anything really. Sure, it will get a couple of watts more from the IMC, but it's really not a biggy. Depends on the workload you're doing. Anyway, the point is to compare the blocks, the heat load is enough as is. If you overclock it more, the difference wil be higher.


The thing with EK and Barrow came from the mouth of Matt O with PPCs. I made a public apology for having been stupid enough to take his word at it and he knows it. I still have the emails saved. In the end he stood by his word and said that it happens all the time but no one would admit it.

You can satisfy my wants of tests by sending a Demo to Igor. He has one of the best tests set up Ive ever seen and tells it like it is regardless of the brand on the block. I dont have a lab, just one HEDT set up where heat removal is the name if the game and the hardest part. JPM has a good test bed, better than anything I can do. I just wanted a Demo block to test against what I have. Make your thread, I'm anticipating to see what you can bring to the table. Please post in your thead what you get on OCd HEDT set ups with a bench that puts a heavy load. I can do AIDA 64 on a dozen blocks and all will come out about the same well within the margin of error.

At one point I was very EK pro. Everything in my build was EK except fittings. Pumps, blocks, rads etc. The beginning of the end was the X299 monoblock then the seeping 1080Ti blocks and I was done. I gave EK more than a fair run for a long time through several builds.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Never hurts to ask for a sample
> I guess everyone is waiting for the cheaper 10 version hedt to jump on or just stuck on gaming 9900k's at tpu.
> Guess Techpowerup is on a very limited budget.
> 
> 256.00 for the cheapest 2066 copper & acetal
> I do know once you log in over on ek site price drops, no telling how much on this maybe -30.00 ?
> 
> Still though guess they see a market for this price scheme I mean just by techpowerup testing numbers it's just a fraction of a celsius
> EK-----------39.55c = 256.19
> SigV2-------39.65c = 180.00
> Foundation 39.80c = 119.00


Yeah that's what I didn't get. 0.1C is within a margin of error. My other worry was what the rest got and the ADIA64 that we all know barely puts a load on it. I like their presentation of what comes in the box etc but weak tests and minimal results are not impressive IMO.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> The thing with EK and Barrow came from the mouth of Matt O with PPCs. I made a public apology for having been stupid enough to take his word at it and he knows it.
> 
> You can satisfy my wants of tests by sending a Demo to Igor. He has one of the best tests set up Ive ever seen and tells it like it is regardless of the brand on the block. I dont have a lab, just one HEDT set up where heat removal is the name if the game and the hardest part. Make your thread< I'm anticipating to see what you can bring to the table.


i dont understand whats the science behind it. i always laugh when they want to make a science out of watercooling is either it cools or dont.. 
you know what you have you know what it does and what not.. if you constantly testing you will see results

this are my tests back to back at same package load, the koolance 380 was throw at it too for comparison and the v2 in all orientations logo up and down goofy left and right..
there are even tests there that were done a couple days later using real loads not that aida crap and the mountings were dead on everytime another point for optimus...

so whats ek take that a almost a decade old block that i bought for $50 on ebay its beating a almost $300 block>??
it looks better? :rollseyes: yeah all those rigs that made for show look better i guaranteed they DONT perform as such.. once i see that distro plate the cooling performance its thrown out of the window thats for sure...

At least with the optimus v2 you have the definition of its build like a tank and to last and 10yr warranty to top it off..


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> i dont understand whats the science behind it. i always laugh when they want to make a science out of watercooling is either it cools or dont..
> you know what you have you know what it does and what not.. if you constantly testing you will see results
> 
> this are my tests back to back at same package load, the koolance 380 was throw at it too for comparison and the v2 in all orientations logo up and down goofy left and right..
> 
> so whats ek take that a almost a decade block that i bought for $50 on ebay its beating theirs almost $300 block>??
> 
> At least with the optimus v2 you have the definition of its build like a tank and to last and 10yr warranty to top it off..


We will see once enough people shell out $300 to buy one. Im not going to do it blindly and certainly not on a test from TPU that shows 0.10C difference.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah that's what I didn't get. 0.1C is within a margin of error. My other worry was what the rest got and the ADIA64 that we all know barely puts a load on it. I like their presentation of what comes in the box etc but weak tests and minimal results are not impressive IMO.


Hi,
I don't use ADIA64 it's not free so I would have no idea what it does settings/.... wise and good or bad.

I prefer free testing utilities and blender opendata is that anyone can use it easily and is not prime 95 most importantly 

Their "TPU" cpu testing is pretty much like thermal paste testing lol


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> We will see once enough people shell out $300 to buy one. Im not going to do it blindly and certainly not on a test from TPU that shows 0.10C difference.


Hi, TPU said there was a 209.us block you'd never notice it on ek website cheapest is 256.19 :/


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I don't use ADIA64 it's not free so I would have no idea what it does settings/.... wise and good or bad.
> 
> I prefer free testing utilities and blender opendata is that anyone can use it easily and is not prime 95 most importantly
> 
> Their "TPU" cpu testing is pretty much like thermal paste testing lol


aida its not a good stress test by any means. Your blender benchmark load its far better i guaranteed you that... it actually uses more watts than rog bench stress test at the same settings.. 

i only use 3 apps to call it a day when testing a realistic 24/7 overclock x264v2 which would detect a almost there unstable voltage you will notice it starts skipping the current test to the next one without been finished if you dont get a bsod of course, rog bench stress test and a loop of classroom for a couple of hrs for max package draw lol
loop of blender classroom will throw out unstable offsets of avx like its nothing specially the bmw test which its like the x264v2 to check for almost there but not enough voltages...
you loop both of those and pass you are golden..

I dont use p95 anymore for that.. i stopped taking p95 seriously since 4th gen intel cpus...

aida with fpu thicked will test avx512 on hedt intels.. aida with fpu ticked on mainstream cpus its a very weak avx test.. i guess the only thing good in aida stress tests its the cache test which will hit avx512 so if you are unstable in avx512 it will error out for that just use linpack extreme XD


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> aida its not a good stress test by any means your blender benchmark load its better i guaranteed you it actually uses more watts than rog bench stress test at the same settings i only use 3 apps to call it a day when testing a realistic 24/7 overclock x264 vs which would detect an unstable voltage, rog bench stress test and a loop of classroom for a couple of hrs for max package draw lol
> 
> I dont use p95 anymore for that.. i stopped taking p95 seriously since 4th gen intel cpus...


Hi,
I used to loop classroom too until opendata came out and made it easier for anyone to run it 

AIDA64 was I thought mostly for memory and cache testing.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I used to loop classroom too until opendata came out and made it easier for anyone to run it
> 
> AIDA64 was I thought mostly for memory and cache testing.


if you want to hit memory go in order from gsat then hci...kharhu ramtest too its very good and fast but my golden test for ram and cache is hci...
once you have your memory set you can loop rogbench for a couple of hrs but i find blender to be a better test for a real heavy workload specially if using avx offsets.. if you are too close to the limits on your desirable TOP temps then use rogbench..


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi, TPU said there was a 209.us block you'd never notice it on ek website cheapest is 256.19 :/





zGunBLADEz said:


> aida its not a good stress test by any means. Your blender benchmark load its far better i guaranteed you that... it actually uses more watts than rog bench stress test at the same settings..
> 
> i only use 3 apps to call it a day when testing a realistic 24/7 overclock x264v2 which would detect a almost there unstable voltage you will notice it starts skipping the current test to the next one without been finished if you dont get a bsod of course, rog bench stress test and a loop of classroom for a couple of hrs for max package draw lol
> loop of blender classroom will throw out unstable offsets of avx like its nothing specially the bmw test which its like the x264v2 to check for almost there but not enough voltages...
> you loop both of those and pass you are golden..
> 
> I dont use p95 anymore for that.. i stopped taking p95 seriously since 4th gen intel cpus...
> 
> aida with fpu thicked will test avx512 on hedt intels.. aida with fpu ticked on mainstream cpus its a very weak avx test.. i guess the only thing good in aida stress tests its the cache test which will hit avx512 so if you are unstable in avx512 it will error out for that just use linpack extreme XD





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I used to loop classroom too until opendata came out and made it easier for anyone to run it
> 
> AIDA64 was I thought mostly for memory and cache testing.


If you check the TPU test box on AIDA64 it puts more of a strain on it even introduces some AVX512 loads other than that its very weak. Still not as much as some others. CPU only and Im not even passing 65C. HWinfo says 100% loaded but the power draw and temps say its weak. P95=how to turn PC into space heater. I like real workloads as much as possible. I bought AIDA64 mostly because it integrates with the aquaero software and pulls in a lot of information thats not otherwise available.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> If you check the TPU test box on AIDA64 it puts more of a strain on it even introduces some AVX512 loads other than that its very weak. Still not as much as some others. CPU only and Im not even passing 65C. HWinfo says 100% loaded but the power draw and temps say its weak. P95=how to turn PC into space heater. I like real workloads as much as possible. I bought AIDA64 mostly because it integrates with the aquaero software and pulls in a lot of information thats not otherwise available.


Yeah for that just use linpack extreme which will do the avx512 test itself if you feel frisky you can do y cruncher lol

linpack extreme will pull at the end of each run over 500w+ out of the cpu socket in tiny bursts at voltages as low as 1.10v using your avx512 divider i use adaptive so my offset reflects on the voltage given of 1.10v
the beginning of the load its very mild not even stress almost like you running nothing but the cpu pegged @ 100% then it will shoot the high wattage peaks.. so your max temps would not reflect the temperature itself as they are very brief

aida with cpu+fpu+cache clicked
like i said aida is too weak to even take seriously look how my avx512 of -6 reacts to it..

now look the difference between the pavillion test which is the highest load of the blender benchmark more wattage on just avx with no offsets peak out at 455w tops lets say like 400w+ avg to dissipate with the cpu block out of the socket in an constant load btw not the "laughable 200w of TPU" or the 240w i was getting with the roller coasters of wattage usage all over like in the aida one..


----------



## zGunBLADEz

This are 3 of the blocks i currently use other than the Optimus v2 which is the one on the bench, using an intel ihs i lapped myself...

Koolance 380
Ek supremacy evo all nickel
Byksi cpu-xpr-A-MC



I havent try that bykski block yet on the 7980xe with the new ihs rock it i put on my 7980xe when i redelid for the second time to fix the liquid metal aplication the previous user applied... But I was using it previously on a stock ihs not lapped tho in my main rig. 

Temps were decent even with the hottest core reaching over 25c over coldest on a real stress overclock.. Back then.... im wondering now..

Idk but thats a perfect contact... Even with the stock ihs still looks good. Havent check on the v2 but im going to ballpark it close to the koolance380...


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah I had to do that on the sigV2 after results were very poor
Well lapping the sigV2 was needed to get it going well it does have a boat load of bow on it twice as much as the foundation has it seems.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah I had to do that on the sigV2 after results were very poor
> Well lapping the sigV2 was needed to get it going well it does have a boat load of bow on it twice as much as the foundation has it seems.


Im going to fire up later in a goofy position to see what i get back here... Trying to see if i can get back the 65s i was getting as ambient later on..


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Optimus blocks neither one I had no luck goofy mount so good luck


----------



## MNKyDeth

I was informed my block should ship sometime this week.
I plan on using it on my 3950X. I currently am using a Swiftech Apogee SKF Prestige block.

I don't plan on doing the extreme testing that some of you have done. However, I am going to re-paste my current block with KPx paste to see how the temperatures are. I previously used Zero Therm paste.
When I get the Foundation AMD Nickel block I plan on doing the same testing with the KPx paste. So I can at least see what the differences are between these two blocks on my setup.

I went with the nickel block as I am also thinking of trying some Liquid metal for the first time. Never used it before and honestly.... Once I get my machines together I very rarely ever take them apart unless I have a really good reason too.

So, I do plan on seeing how the Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut hopefully helps improve temps further.

What software should I use for thermal testing so I can get some good comparable results? Any recommendations?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Best realistic workload stress test is blender opendata

https://opendata.blender.org/

Or you can install blender and download some of their free demo rendering files and loop one of them 
BMW and classroom are pretty good just use render animation to loop the file over and over or render file to one time render.
https://www.blender.org/

https://www.blender.org/download/demo-files/


----------



## Jpmboy

zGunBLADEz said:


> This are 3 of the blocks i currently use other than the Optimus v2 which is the one on the bench, using an intel ihs i lapped myself...
> Koolance 380
> Ek supremacy evo all nickel
> Byksi cpu-xpr-A-MC
> I havent try that bykski block yet on the 7980xe with the new ihs rock it i put on my 7980xe when i redelid for the second time to fix the liquid metal aplication the previous user applied... But I was using it previously on a stock ihs not lapped tho in my main rig.
> Temps were decent even with the hottest core reaching over 25c over coldest on a real stress overclock.. Back then.... im wondering now..
> Idk but thats a perfect contact... Even with the stock ihs still looks good. Havent check on the v2 but im going to ballpark it close to the koolance380...


Don't forget that mounting pressure actually causes the block/contact plate and IHS to "conform" better to each other... this is not something that you want in direct-die cooling.


----------



## Zurv

It is Monday after work - so it is time for the GPU block check in.

So any updates on the GPU blocks? 

Any closer?


----------



## Optimus WC

Haha  Yes technically closer, but can't give an update yet, a few more things need to fall into place. 

Regarding some of the other points brought up: 

-Yes, we can make a flat acrylic Foundation block

-We're not a fan of the steel jet slot plates. First, galvanic corrosion is real, and steel against copper or nickel will result in corrosion, even with the right coolant. If the steel were separated in the loop (like a D5), you'd be fine, but we're just can't stand behind our warranty if we did steel in a block. Second, we feel the plate creates too much wiggle and ultimately lacks accuracy. No doubt the multi-slot idea is clever. 

-In the future, we'll prob just sell replacement Foundation tops for like $30 

-For those recent TPU numbers, the biggest thing to point out is the DDC pump used for testing. We're big fans of D5 and don't think DDC should be used except in SFF builds. Performance with wide channels can work to maximize performance for weaker pumps with lower temp requirements, though we've gone the other direction, maximizing for high performance with D5 pumps.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

@Optimus hey I am llooking into pump/res options and had a pew questions.
Is the D5 you offer 24v compatible?
And any eta on the other mounting options for the combo res? will there be any dual D5 options?


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Haha  Yes technically closer, but can't give an update yet, a few more things need to fall into place.
> 
> Regarding some of the other points brought up:
> 
> -Yes, we can make a flat acrylic Foundation block
> 
> -*We're not a fan of the steel jet slot plates. First, galvanic corrosion is real, and steel against copper or nickel will result in corrosion*, even with the right coolant. If the steel were separated in the loop (like a D5), you'd be fine, but we're just can't stand behind our warranty if we did steel in a block. Second, we feel the plate creates too much wiggle and ultimately lacks accuracy. No doubt the multi-slot idea is clever.
> 
> -In the future, we'll prob just sell replacement Foundation tops for like $30
> 
> -For those recent TPU numbers, the biggest thing to point out is the DDC pump used for testing. We're big fans of D5 and don't think DDC should be used except in SFF builds. Performance with wide channels can work to maximize performance for weaker pumps with lower temp requirements, though we've gone the other direction, maximizing for high performance with D5 pumps.


Hi,
I believe the ek razor blade jet plates are stainless steel but I could be wrong ?


----------



## TK421

Optimus WC said:


> Haha  Yes technically closer, but can't give an update yet, a few more things need to fall into place.
> 
> Regarding some of the other points brought up:
> 
> -Yes, we can make a flat acrylic Foundation block
> 
> -We're not a fan of the steel jet slot plates. First, galvanic corrosion is real, and steel against copper or nickel will result in corrosion, even with the right coolant. If the steel were separated in the loop (like a D5), you'd be fine, but we're just can't stand behind our warranty if we did steel in a block. Second, we feel the plate creates too much wiggle and ultimately lacks accuracy. No doubt the multi-slot idea is clever.
> 
> -In the future, we'll prob just sell replacement Foundation tops for like $30
> 
> -For those recent TPU numbers, the biggest thing to point out is the DDC pump used for testing. We're big fans of D5 and don't think DDC should be used except in SFF builds. Performance with wide channels can work to maximize performance for weaker pumps with lower temp requirements, though we've gone the other direction, maximizing for high performance with D5 pumps.



have you investigated pressure drop with modifying the o-ring like what thrashzone did?


----------



## skupples

always seemed stainless.

can confirm they'll fuse to your block, specially if you're in the business of thinking its OK to run pure water with no balancing. 

galvanic corrosion is real, and so is proper loop protection to prevent it 



TK421 said:


> have you investigated pressure drop with modifying the o-ring like what thrashzone did?


agreed, I'm surprised they didn't use their (referenced multiple times) custom gasket making skills. Or maybe its one of those "persistent innovation" things where you know its a possible bottleneck, and will address it on the refresh


----------



## TheFrknPope

skupples said:


> always seemed stainless.
> 
> can confirm they'll fuse to your block, specially if you're in the business of thinking its OK to run pure water with no balancing. /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> 
> galvanic corrosion is real , and so is proper loop protection to prevent it /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif even with “proper” loop protection it happens dude. Can happen fast to especially with high flow rigs. And yes they are stainless steel. Definitely not immune to rust and corrosion! I’ve personally pulled out two EK plates with intense corrosion just on the plates. Literally no where else in the loop. Higher flow destroys stainless steel. I see it at work and my hobby.


----------



## TheFrknPope

Fudge the quoting up trying to multitask lol, I’m definitely agreeing with you, people think SS is some mythical metal that can’t corrode. I work in marine construction and repair and we use brass everywhere we can and stainless steel valves when we absolutely have to depending on the chemicals that are going through the vessel. Stainless steel valves get replaced within months of use. Like candy out there! When I picked up the signature I just smiled and said yep that’s brass!! Nothing like a block of brass that makes you feel all cozy inside!


----------



## skupples

TheFrknPope said:


> skupples said:
> 
> 
> 
> always seemed stainless.
> 
> can confirm they'll fuse to your block, specially if you're in the business of thinking its OK to run pure water with no balancing. /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> 
> galvanic corrosion is real , and so is proper loop protection to prevent it /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif even with “proper” loop protection it happens dude. Can happen fast to especially with high flow rigs. And yes they are stainless steel. Definitely not immune to rust and corrosion! I’ve personally pulled out two EK plates with intense corrosion just on the plates. Literally no where else in the loop. Higher flow destroys stainless steel. I see it at work and my hobby.
> 
> 
> 
> weird. I've run setups of bitspower fittings & EK blocks for years on end without a single issue. they come out looking nearly brand new. One key ingredient though. Mayhem's X1/+ series for ph. funny thing is, during tear downs i'd pull out the few cheap fittings i'd use, n they'd be caked in corrosion, EK & BP parts though? flawless. even the cruddy plate. Current EK block has a plastic plate inside it though. idk how I feel about it, it works, and isn't a flow crushing monster, though that doesn't really matter with mcp35x2.
> 
> this is why I so heavily advocate against the pure water theory. yes, it "works" but its anything but ideal for the lifespan of your parts.
Click to expand...


----------



## MNKyDeth

Imo, the best water to use is the stuff you mix yourself.
Use Pure distilled deionized water. Put in your antimicrobial. I use silver. Then put in the appropriate amount of corrosion inhibitor. I use Redline Water Wetter.

Been using this mixture since the late 90's early 2000's when I first started water cooling. I've never had an issue in any loops I have ever done. Just don't mix Aluminum but thats fairly common knowledge this day and age.

Granted you don't get "pretty" colors with this setup. But when it comes to temps it's always been good. And when it comes to gunk in my loop. I can't say I have ever had any.
But I have seen those crazy pics from people not using proper mixtures in their loops. Where the sludge octopus lives in their cpu blocks.


----------



## skupples

and to think, that silver is doing almost nothing. it's pretty much the copper in your radiators and blocks doing the microbe murder duty


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Best realistic workload stress test is blender opendata
> 
> https://opendata.blender.org/
> 
> Or you can install blender and download some of their free demo rendering files and loop one of them
> BMW and classroom are pretty good just use render animation to loop the file over and over or render file to one time render.
> https://www.blender.org/
> 
> https://www.blender.org/download/demo-files/


I ran 5 cycles of classroom with avx offset of 2 on a 4.8 OC. it loaded every core equally and while running 4.6 all cores. 8C spread with 76C high. All fans and pumps to 100% before starting. 
Have to try it tomorrow with no AVX offset.


----------



## Ashcroft

Optimus WC said:


> Haha  Yes technically closer, but can't give an update yet, a few more things need to fall into place.
> 
> Regarding some of the other points brought up:
> 
> -Yes, we can make a flat acrylic Foundation block
> 
> -We're not a fan of the steel jet slot plates. First, galvanic corrosion is real, and steel against copper or nickel will result in corrosion, even with the right coolant. If the steel were separated in the loop (like a D5), you'd be fine, but we're just can't stand behind our warranty if we did steel in a block. Second, we feel the plate creates too much wiggle and ultimately lacks accuracy. No doubt the multi-slot idea is clever.
> 
> -In the future, we'll prob just sell replacement Foundation tops for like $30
> 
> -For those recent TPU numbers, the biggest thing to point out is the DDC pump used for testing. We're big fans of D5 and don't think DDC should be used except in SFF builds. Performance with wide channels can work to maximize performance for weaker pumps with lower temp requirements, though we've gone the other direction, maximizing for high performance with D5 pumps.


Now its the pumps fault? 1GPM of flow is 1GPM of flow, doesn't matter what creates it. Even so the testing used an MCP50X pump that provides higher pressure and flow rates than a D5.
If anything the testing favoured the optimus block because it was fixed flow rate testing rather then letting the higher restriction of the block lower the flow rate compared to the others in the tests.

Edit: My bad, I missed that they used different pumps for the flow and temp testing and DDC pumps were indeed used. Appologies for that.
Even so a 35X2 pump is still a more powerful pump than a d5 or dual d5's and creates higher flow in loops.


SS plates have been used in cpu blocks by several major manufacturers for a decade or more. If it was a problem we would have seen a ton of examples by now and we haven't.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> I ran 5 cycles of classroom with avx offset of 2 on a 4.8 OC. it loaded every core equally and while running 4.6 all cores. 8C spread with 76C high. All fans and pumps to 100% before starting.
> Have to try it tomorrow with no AVX offset.


Hi,
Nice temps as usual 
See if the high/ low temps increases with core clocks it usually does at some point.

I always thought classroom was the beast render file 
On opendata the render file after classroom usually is the one that pushes temps up the most for myself might be the hair works or something on fishy cat I believe it is
Maybe it's the combination of the two ?

The cosmo laundromat demo looks like a beast at 230mbs though


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> JustinThyme said:
> 
> 
> 
> I ran 5 cycles of classroom with avx offset of 2 on a 4.8 OC. it loaded every core equally and while running 4.6 all cores. 8C spread with 76C high. All fans and pumps to 100% before starting.
> Have to try it tomorrow with no AVX offset.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Nice temps as usual
> See if the high/ low temps increases with core clocks it usually does at some point.
> 
> I always thought classroom was the beast render file
> On opendata the render file after classroom usually is the one that pushes temps up the most for myself might be the hair works or something on fishy cat I believe it is
> Maybe it's the combination of the two ?
> 
> The cosmo laundromat demo looks like a beast at 230mbs though /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Pavilion uses More watts than classroom xD


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Jpmboy said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> This are 3 of the blocks i currently use other than the Optimus v2 which is the one on the bench, using an intel ihs i lapped myself...
> Koolance 380
> Ek supremacy evo all nickel
> Byksi cpu-xpr-A-MC
> I havent try that bykski block yet on the 7980xe with the new ihs rock it i put on my 7980xe when i redelid for the second time to fix the liquid metal aplication the previous user applied... But I was using it previously on a stock ihs not lapped tho in my main rig.
> Temps were decent even with the hottest core reaching over 25c over coldest on a real stress overclock.. Back then.... im wondering now..
> Idk but thats a perfect contact... Even with the stock ihs still looks good. Havent check on the v2 but im going to ballpark it close to the koolance380...
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget that mounting pressure actually causes the block/contact plate and IHS to "conform" better to each other... this is not something that you want in direct-die cooling. /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
Click to expand...

Well yeah but to the point of actually bent it tho...look the ek one that one needs a flat... reason i didnt bother to test against the v2 i know its going to loose miserably the way it is.

This is my v2


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nice temps as usual
> See if the high/ low temps increases with core clocks it usually does at some point.
> 
> I always thought classroom was the beast render file
> On opendata the render file after classroom usually is the one that pushes temps up the most for myself might be the hair works or something on fishy cat I believe it is
> Maybe it's the combination of the two ?
> 
> The cosmo laundromat demo looks like a beast at 230mbs though


Nov AVX, jacked Vcore up from 1,220 to 1.225. Temps up a little 20 min run 4 passes tmps a little higher but 10C spread. Left pumps and fans on auto. They did their thing and kept Liquid about 30C.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> Pavilion uses More watts than classroom xD


Longer render times but didnt use cores as evenly. Watts from UPS out came up a bit less for me.
First peaks were classroom, second pavillion. Only thing changed was what file rendered and a few minutes break between for liquid to come back down.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

well i just find out my liquid metal aplication is dead on and good my core 14 its not longer the hottest using the bykski block..
now i have 3/6/15 and 16 as the hottest. at this ambient it should be way wayyyyyyyyyy lower than that on the v2

that block "byski" was literally glue to the cpu when i tried to remove it so contact was 100% optimal

@OptimusWC yuhu XD


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> Longer render times but didnt use cores as evenly. Watts from UPS out came up a bit less for me.
> First peaks were classroom, second pavillion. Only thing changed was what file rendered and a few minutes break between for liquid to come back down.


in my rig and my socket pull put pavillion as the hottest then classroom


----------



## skupples

wtb gpu tracker


----------



## zGunBLADEz

back to v2 goofy
those colder cores are really enjoying that metal contact with the v2 lol


----------



## TheFrknPope

Ashcroft said:


> Optimus WC said:
> 
> 
> 
> Haha /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif Yes technically closer, but can't give an update yet, a few more things need to fall into place.
> 
> Regarding some of the other points brought up:
> 
> -Yes, we can make a flat acrylic Foundation block
> 
> -We're not a fan of the steel jet slot plates. First, galvanic corrosion is real, and steel against copper or nickel will result in corrosion, even with the right coolant. If the steel were separated in the loop (like a D5), you'd be fine, but we're just can't stand behind our warranty if we did steel in a block. Second, we feel the plate creates too much wiggle and ultimately lacks accuracy. No doubt the multi-slot idea is clever.
> 
> -In the future, we'll prob just sell replacement Foundation tops for like $30 /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> -For those recent TPU numbers, the biggest thing to point out is the DDC pump used for testing. We're big fans of D5 and don't think DDC should be used except in SFF builds. Performance with wide channels can work to maximize performance for weaker pumps with lower temp requirements, though we've gone the other direction, maximizing for high performance with D5 pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> Now its the pumps fault? 1GPM of flow is 1GPM of flow, doesn't matter what creates it. Even so the testing used an MCP50X pump that provides higher pressure and flow rates than a D5.
> If anything the testing favoured the optimus block because it was fixed flow rate testing rather then letting the higher restriction of the block lower the flow rate compared to the others in the tests.
> 
> Edit: My bad, I missed that they used different pumps for the flow and temp testing and DDC pumps were indeed used. Appologies for that.
> Even so a 35X2 pump is still a more powerful pump than a d5 or dual d5's and creates higher flow in loops.
> 
> 
> SS plates have been used in cpu blocks by several major manufacturers for a decade or more. If it was a problem we would have seen a ton of examples by now and we haven't.
Click to expand...

 there is a ton of examples. Lol. Google it. It’s a very common issue. Not all SS is created equal like everything else.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
My ek evo jet plates still look just fine so does the copper cold plates they sit on.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> -For those recent TPU numbers, the biggest thing to point out is the DDC pump used for testing. We're big fans of D5 and don't think DDC should be used except in SFF builds. Performance with wide channels can work to maximize performance for weaker pumps with lower temp requirements, though we've gone the other direction, maximizing for high performance with D5 pumps.


The main advantage of the D5 over the DDC is it's a lot quieter, but I'd rather have my MCP35X2's over dual D5's any day.

I don't get the love affair with D5's really, So big and bulky. The fact it's whisper quiet compared to a DDC is it's only advantage to me.


----------



## AtilaEKWB

As far as I know, the D5 has a higher flow rate, less pressure. The DDC had more pressure but less flow. Also, the DDC overheats, and if its not take care of, it dies much faster than the D5. 

So, the manufacture specs say:

D5 Maximum flow: up to 1500L/h
D5 Maximum pressure head: up to 3.9m

DDC 3.25 Maximum flow rate: up to 1000 L/h
DDC 3.25 Maximum head pressure: up to 7.0m


----------



## tistou77

The DDC 3.25 is rather 5.7m, right?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Shawnb99 said:


> The main advantage of the D5 over the DDC is it's a lot quieter, but I'd rather have my MCP35X2's over dual D5's any day.
> 
> I don't get the love affair with D5's really, So big and bulky. The fact it's whisper quiet compared to a DDC is it's only advantage to me.


I don't get why people are so salty about D5's, LOL they are literally better in every way except for head pressure. Have you ever had one? they aren't that much bigger than a ddc.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> back to v2 goofy
> those colder cores are really enjoying that metal contact with the v2 lol


I need a Mo-RA 420 to stick in my window but here in another month that will be useless and I actually get better performance when I put a 5K BTU window AC in that window blowing to the back over inlet. Think Ill end up eventually pulling all the rads and going with a chiller. Nothing crazy, just enough to keep the temps down without having to worry about condensation. Had my fun with Subzero, burned up a lot of components between subzero chillers and phase change. Ill never go back to air on anything. Ill have to run another circuit up for a chiller or even two. The 800W Koolance might be able to hang as Not many things I do push both the CPU and GPUs at the same time. If not its back to the drawing board. Overall Im happy with what I get now but 4 rads and all those fans hog up a lot of case space, not that Im lacking with an Enthoo Elite and 900D back up.


----------



## JustinThyme

AtilaEKWB said:


> As far as I know, the D5 has a higher flow rate, less pressure. The DDC had more pressure but less flow. Also, the DDC overheats, and if its not take care of, it dies much faster than the D5.
> 
> So, the manufacture specs say:
> 
> D5 Maximum flow: up to 1500L/h
> D5 Maximum pressure head: up to 3.9m
> 
> DDC 3.25 Maximum flow rate: up to 1000 L/h
> DDC 3.25 Maximum head pressure: up to 7.0m


D5 (at least two) over DDC any day. I went down the DDC road once with premium heads. One leaked which took forever to stop and the other was cooked in a month. They need at least passive cooling as they get hot as the dickens and will blister your finger to the tough when running for awhile even in a well ventilated case. Dont need 7 meters of lift. Need FLOW which will give you pressure. Its a lot to do with loop organization as well. As in dont run CPU and GPU/s in parallel. I set mine up like that initally when adding a distro as thats how the particular distro was designed. Put more flow to a pair of GPUs than to the CPU and accounted for 3C temp rise.

With 3 D5s Im getting every bit of 580L/H with all PWM cranked 100% although I typically have the first at 100, second at 90% and 3rd at 85% giving me about 500L/H. staggering the speeds has a harmonic damping effect killing the high pitched whine. Of course the aquaero jacks them all to 100% when my liquid temp approaches 32C and you arent hearing pumps over the 20 fans.


----------



## JustinThyme

TheFrknPope said:


> there is a ton of examples. Lol. Google it. It’s a very common issue. Not all SS is created equal like everything else.


Yeah you got that right. Cheap SS isnt much better than cast iron at rust prevention. At least 400 grade


----------



## Zurv

JustinThyme said:


> I need a Mo-RA 420 to stick in my window but here in another month that will be useless and I actually get better performance when I put a 5K BTU window AC in that window blowing to the back over inlet. Think Ill end up eventually pulling all the rads and going with a chiller. Nothing crazy, just enough to keep the temps down without having to worry about condensation. Had my fun with Subzero, burned up a lot of components between subzero chillers and phase change. Ill never go back to air on anything. Ill have to run another circuit up for a chiller or even two. The 800W Koolance might be able to hang as Not many things I do push both the CPU and GPUs at the same time. If not its back to the drawing board. Overall Im happy with what I get now but 4 rads and all those fans hog up a lot of case space, not that Im lacking with an Enthoo Elite and 900D back up.


oh.. if you find a place that sells it (in the US and has stock...) I might pick up one of those. They aren't that costly. In the end it is the fans that really bump the price up. 
When i replace my desktop monitor with a LG 48" OLED, i can put the Mo-RA behind it.  (i'm a fan of external units.)

It is the same size as the koolance i use now, but a much better/thicker rad. (also a TON cheaper)


----------



## Kana Chan

tistou77 said:


> The DDC 3.25 is rather 5.7m, right?


3.25 goes up to 22.5+ft / 522-567 LPH on their own site/pdfs

DDC 3.2 = 16+ ft ( more common since it comes with a top? )

D5 Vario = 14 or 15 ft


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> back to v2 goofy
> those colder cores are really enjoying that metal contact with the v2 lol
> 
> 
> 
> I need a Mo-RA 420 to stick in my window but here in another month that will be useless and I actually get better performance when I put a 5K BTU window AC in that window blowing to the back over inlet. Think Ill end up eventually pulling all the rads and going with a chiller. Nothing crazy, just enough to keep the temps down without having to worry about condensation. Had my fun with Subzero, burned up a lot of components between subzero chillers and phase change. Ill never go back to air on anything. Ill have to run another circuit up for a chiller or even two. The 800W Koolance might be able to hang as Not many things I do push both the CPU and GPUs at the same time. If not its back to the drawing board. Overall Im happy with what I get now but 4 rads and all those fans hog up a lot of case space, not that Im lacking with an Enthoo Elite and 900D back up.
Click to expand...

Try getting a phobya instead its better than the moras i have a MoRa with 120mm gentle typhoon fan and a phobya 1260 with all cheapo 140mm fans actually those fans Artic F14s are quite good for their price in bulk vs most expensive fans... The phobya hands down beats the MoRa... The only thing mora has its bcuz you can customize with feet and what not they already sell like grills and stuff.. But in the end performance wise the phobya hands down..
The MoRa setup for me is easy to move around and i can put anywhere i want.. Phobya for performance and 140mm fans quietness ... Those fans at low speed whisper quiet.. Both setups have their own reservoir + D5 tied to them. They dont rely on the pump+reservoir on the system. 



I like them both tho.. I have never seen water temp reaching over 3c+ over ambient in any ambient all up to 95F as ambient.. XD


----------



## skupples

"maximizing for high performance with D5 pumps." 

trying to be nice - this is hogwash. other's have clearly stated why.

$200 for MCP35x2 is slightly more than one fancy D5, while blowing it out of the water in all regards. i've also seen many people blow multiple D5s in the time I've had one MCP35x2, but I chalk that up to willful ignorance about coolant stability & we won't go back into that. Cheap DDCs? trash. Ebay DDCs? trash. agreed. D5 doesn't really have to deal with cheaper versions of itself giving it a bad name.

Can't believe there are still people with this misinformation running around, let alone trying to sell us blocks. can't lie. 

the only good D5 is a used D5. otherwise, over-hyped, over-priced, over-sized.

SFF is what you keep posting in comparison to what most of us on OCN build, so you should probably put twin DDCs in it. just gonna put that out there too.

There is zero reason to be defensive about the data being put out. EK wants nearly $100 more for a comparable product. That's a win, Optimus.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> Try getting a phobya instead its better than the moras i have a MoRa with 120mm gentle typhoon fan and a phobya 1260 with all cheapo 140mm fans actually those fans Artic F14s are quite good for their price in bulk vs most expensive fans... The phobya hands down beats the MoRa... The only thing mora has its bcuz you can customize with feet and what not they already sell like grills and stuff.. But in the end performance wise the phobya hands down..
> The MoRa setup for me is easy to move around and i can put anywhere i want.. Phobya for performance and 140mm fans quietness ... Those fans at low speed whisper quiet.. Both setups have their own reservoir + D5 tied to them. They dont rely on the pump+reservoir on the system.
> 
> 
> 
> I like them both tho.. I have never seen water temp reaching over 3c+ over ambient in any ambient all up to 95F as ambient.. XD


Phobya supernoave and Mor Ra 420 Im assuming you are comparing as they are both the same with 9 140 fans. Mo Ra 360 has 9 120 fans. You can buy feet for phoyba, as for grills dont really care can customize each fan or just dont be an idiot and stick your fingers in there!


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> "maximizing for high performance with D5 pumps."
> 
> trying to be nice - this is hogwash. other's have clearly stated why.
> 
> $200 for MCP35x2 is slightly more than one fancy D5, while blowing it out of the water in all regards.
> 
> Can't believe there are still people with this misinformation running around, let alone trying to sell us blocks. can't lie.
> 
> the only good D5 is a used D5. otherwise, over-hyped, over-priced, over-sized.
> 
> SFF is what you keep posting in comparison to what most of us on OCN build, so you should probably put twin DDCs in it. just gonna put that out there too.


Well with the flow and pressure I get from 3x D5s I can damn sure wash some hogs and keep 580L/M flow. 
DDCs is just bad advice all the way around. sure they are compact but thats where it ends. No flow and hot as hell. Run one in your loop for 3-4 hours with no fans doing a leak test and watch how hot your loop gets just from the DDC pump/s


----------



## skupples

i've been running mcp35x2 in a monster loop @ full tilt for almost a decade now, n flow was always 1.5+ even when cooling 3x GPUs, chip, VRMs, 5x480s  I have them @ near idle for the first time ever right now cuz i'm only cooling a CPU, flow is still almost 2GPM. N yes, DDCs can murder themselves in low restriction loops if let run full tilt. They're less user friendly, i'll give em that. They're also half the price  $200 for the unit. 

they do have a few quirks. but i'd assume D5s do too.

but i do agree about the heat aspect. It's why using them in SFF is funny advice.


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> i've been running mcp35x2 in a monster loop @ full tilt for almost a decade now, n flow was always 1.5+ even when cooling 3x GPUs, chip, VRMs, 5x480s
> 
> they do have a few quirks. but i'd assume D5s do too.
> 
> but i do agree about the heat aspect. It's why using them in SFF is funny advice.


Same one cooked on me in a matter of months, replaced with two swiftech D5 and they were both DOA and swiftech refused to replace either said I ran them dry period with no questions or anything, Ive never used a switchech product since. I always check pumps for operation before putting them in a loop, Just res, pump/s rad small rad and return to res. None of them turned a single rpm. Now I have one fancy D5 Next and the other two in the bitposer single head are promchill PWMs. They all wrok great. Overkill? Maybe but I dont have to worry and I get more flow and pressure than most.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

I dont even need that much pump and my outside rad is like 2meters higher to where the pc is at. D5 vote for me for quietness and longetivity. Once i prime the outside system with water the pressure and the extra d5 do the rest with a nice flow dont have to worry about ddc failures which i have before. Well everything brakes regardless "touch wood"..

If i really want flow perf speaking .. I will adapt the pump before gpu+cpu blocks make sure all my rads are in series and problem solved..

My main loop have almost a gallon of water between the pc and the outside rad combo btw xD..


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> Well with the flow and pressure I get from 3x D5s I can damn sure wash some hogs and keep 580L/M flow.
> 
> DDCs is just bad advice all the way around. sure they are compact but thats where it ends. No flow and hot as hell. Run one in your loop for 3-4 hours with no fans doing a leak test and watch how hot your loop gets just from the DDC pump/s




D5 pumps dump heat into the water not DDC’s. That’s why it gets hot, it’s not dumping heat into your loop. You have your facts backwards 
They have plenty of flow.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Try getting a phobya instead its better than the moras i have a MoRa with 120mm gentle typhoon fan and a phobya 1260 with all cheapo 140mm fans actually those fans Artic F14s are quite good for their price in bulk vs most expensive fans... The phobya hands down beats the MoRa... The only thing mora has its bcuz you can customize with feet and what not they already sell like grills and stuff.. But in the end performance wise the phobya hands down..
> The MoRa setup for me is easy to move around and i can put anywhere i want.. Phobya for performance and 140mm fans quietness ... Those fans at low speed whisper quiet.. Both setups have their own reservoir + D5 tied to them. They dont rely on the pump+reservoir on the system.
> 
> 
> 
> I like them both tho.. I have never seen water temp reaching over 3c+ over ambient in any ambient all up to 95F as ambient.. XD
> 
> 
> 
> Phobya supernoave and Mor Ra 420 Im assuming you are comparing as they are both the same with 9 140 fans. Mo Ra 360 has 9 120 fans. You can buy feet for phoyba, as for grills dont really care can customize each fan or just dont be an idiot and stick your fingers in there!
Click to expand...

 the way mora is designed cant compete with the type of fins a regular rad have theres more surface in the fins Hell my 360gtx with 6k rpm delta fans beat it its not even funny.. But you know the noise and over 150w for the fans alone :rollseyes:


----------



## tistou77

zGunBLADEz said:


> Try getting a phobya instead its better than the moras i have a MoRa with 120mm gentle typhoon fan and a phobya 1260 with all cheapo 140mm fans actually those fans Artic F14s are quite good for their price in bulk vs most expensive fans... The phobya hands down beats the MoRa... The only thing mora has its bcuz you can customize with feet and what not they already sell like grills and stuff.. But in the end performance wise the phobya hands down..
> The MoRa setup for me is easy to move around and i can put anywhere i want.. Phobya for performance and 140mm fans quietness ... Those fans at low speed whisper quiet.. Both setups have their own reservoir + D5 tied to them. They dont rely on the pump+reservoir on the system.
> 
> I like them both tho.. I have never seen water temp reaching over 3c+ over ambient in any ambient all up to 95F as ambient.. XD


The performances are very very close between the Phobya and MORA3


----------



## zGunBLADEz

tistou77 said:


> The performances are very very close between the Phobya and MORA3
> 
> View attachment 330614
> View attachment 330616


i get a Dt of 3c tops never seen higher on the 1260 7980xe 2 1080tis in the loop.. i like both rads tho ..

Btw the mora3 tend to whine on high perf fans too the way the heat pipes are designed wind make them whine lol (lets say it have a peculiar noise)


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Think the a/c air chiller deal is the most modular way to go 
If the home a/c ever goes out at least it is useful to have a wall unit to kick on while repairs are made.

Hard to do anything else with a water chiller unless you can use water friendly for fish as well


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Think the a/c air chiller deal is the most modular way to go
> If the home a/c ever goes out at least it is useful to have a wall unit to kick on while repairs are made.
> 
> Hard to do anything else with a water chiller unless you can use water friendly for fish as well


i rarely turn my chiller on... i got it for those hot days where i have 90f ambients which its like not even 1-2month of the whole year..
an ac aint beating the chiller tho

Like right now using a chiller its pretty much useless here all you going to do is just waste energy.. putting the rad in a open crack window beats it hands down XD


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> i rarely turn my chiller on... i got it for those hot days where i have 90f ambients which its like not even 1-2month of the whole year..
> an ac aint beating the chiller tho
> 
> Like right now using a chiller its pretty much useless here all you going to do is just waste energy.. putting the rad in a open crack window beats it hands down XD


Hi,
About time to buy some fish


----------



## Kana Chan

tistou77 said:


> The performances are very very close between the Phobya and MORA3


Flow rate is slightly higher on the phobya in addition to the above.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

skupples said:


> i've been running mcp35x2 in a monster loop @ full tilt for almost a decade now, n flow was always 1.5+ even when cooling 3x GPUs, chip, VRMs, 5x480s  I have them @ near idle for the first time ever right now cuz i'm only cooling a CPU, flow is still almost 2GPM. N yes, DDCs can murder themselves in low restriction loops if let run full tilt. They're less user friendly, i'll give em that. They're also half the price  $200 for the unit.
> 
> they do have a few quirks. but i'd assume D5s do too.
> 
> but i do agree about the heat aspect. It's why using them in SFF is funny advice.


where are you looking for your prices? all the D5's I have been looking at are basically within 10$ of the DDC pumps... I know cuz I been considering giving DDC a try, because I got a waterway plate and its designed to take one. 

literally the "best serial dual pump",EK's god awful thing, is 305$ thats 33%. sure you could do a lil better than that picking parts yourself. https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/reservoirs/singularity-computers-resonance-dual.html is almost 2x the cost... that has alot more going on than the mcp35x2

honestly I dunno what quirks about d5s there are, I started with a D5 and E3 in 2015 and never had any issue with em. Never invested in a flow meter tho, those things are sorta ridiculous.


----------



## Shawnb99

tatmMRKIV said:


> Never invested in a flow meter tho, those things are sorta ridiculous.




Knowing the actual flow rate is ridiculous?


----------



## skupples

tatmMRKIV said:


> where are you looking for your prices? all the D5's I have been looking at are basically within 10$ of the DDC pumps... I know cuz I been considering giving DDC a try, because I got a waterway plate and its designed to take one.
> 
> literally the "best serial dual pump",EK's god awful thing, is 305$ thats 33%. sure you could do a lil better than that picking parts yourself. https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/reservoirs/singularity-computers-resonance-dual.html is almost 2x the cost... that has alot more going on than the mcp35x2
> 
> honestly I dunno what quirks about d5s there are, I started with a D5 and E3 in 2015 and never had any issue with em. Never invested in a flow meter tho, those things are sorta ridiculous.


I don't comb for prices very often, and EK's unit has come down in price. thanks for the update. I'll still stick to MCP35x2 @ $200 for everything I do. easily lasting for 10 years plus in the super restrictive loops I build = good for me. Not the pump's fault that people buy DDC & use it like a D5, then have it explode 2 days later 

I've also never met a pump that doesn't eventually dump heat into the loop. People can debate D5 Vs. DDC water/air cooled natures. They'll both eventually super heat your loop with no fan spin. derp. stupid comment really. I could boil water in my old sump pump during flood season. pretending an extra 30 watts matters in a loop with 5-6 giant radiators is model loyalty and nothing more (can't be brand since they're made by the same people) again theough, D5 doesn't have to deal with having shart stained siblings, like DDC does. Those Ebay pumps and cheap distro plate pumps will continue to give them a terrible name for the foreseeable future. 

if you're running 40 fans, you aren't gonna be hearing your pumps anyways. (unless you didn't mount them right n they resonate your case)



Shawnb99 said:


> Knowing the actual flow rate is ridiculous?


only if you don't actually care to know you're in the performance sweet spot. Or, just peg to max & cross fingers, that works too. otherwise, no! pressure sensors are ridiculous. flow sensors are par.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
D5 pumps alone are not badly priced just look on optimus website only about 70.us I believe
It's the housing that costs the most add a reservoir combo and boom price goes up or even a D5 top boom again
But replacement D5 or just buying a D5 pump is not 2-300.us 

Boom 75.us
Sata powered too 
https://optimuspc.com/products/xylem-d5-pro-pump-pwm-sata


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> D5 pumps alone are not badly priced just look on optimus website only about 70.us I believe
> It's the housing that costs the most add a reservoir combo and boom price goes up or even a D5 top boom again
> But replacement D5 or just buying a D5 pump is not 2-300.us
> 
> Boom 75.us
> Sata powered too
> https://optimuspc.com/products/xylem-d5-pro-pump-pwm-sata


for sure. the base model pump itself isn't too bad. I think the highest those get is $125-$150 (AquaComputer)

slap on the NEEDED accessories, and they're quickly gonna blow past MCP35x2's epic price/perf balance. Zero assembly, plug & play pump system. 

people gonna buy what they're gonna buy, but all the disinformation doesn't help. "i'm an engineer & I had 10 of them die on me!" mhm. sure.

dual pump distros seem quite sketch to me. seems like you'd create a cyclone before getting your pumps above 30%. like old bay res mounts of days past.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> for sure. the pump itself isn't too bad.
> 
> slap on the NEEDED accessories, and they're quickly gonna blow past MCP35x2's epic price/perf balance.


Hi,
Nothing is free baby 
Can't help it someone may want a 2 gallon reservoir pump combo and then complain it costs 500.us or more :lachen:


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nothing is free baby
> Can't help it someone may want a 2 gallon reservoir pump combo and then complain it costs 500.us or more :lachen:


lol what're you even referencing? 

my loop holds ~1.75 on average. All I did was screw a tube res to the intake on the MCP35x2 & call it a day. I couldn't stand not being able to run the flows i wanted during the single pump bay reservoirs days.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> lol what're you even referencing?
> 
> my loop holds ~1.75 on average. All I did was screw a tube res to the intake on the MCP35x2 & call it a day. I couldn't stand not being able to run the flows i wanted during the single pump bay reservoirs days.


Hi,
Just an example since pump reservoir combos come with may different size reservoirs and thus different prices.
But yes pump tops are the most inexpensive and just have a separate reservoir. 

Noticed optimus D5 pumps are only life rated for 5 years though.


----------



## skupples

i had not noticed that. The great thing about this pump lasting 10 years is you don't spend time shopping for pumps  

I'd assume that's the standard life rating for all Laiaing d5s though. wait, wasn't it like 50K hours running time? 

either way - you can easily make these toys last 10+ years, just gotta keep your water stable. running acid thru your loop has its drawbacks, even once it won't eat away at your nickel blocks.

what are the main differences again fam?

D5 has higher flow, lower pressure, is 2x the size
DDC has lower flow, higher pressure, is half the size
D5 dumps heat into the loop*
DDC dumps heat into the case*


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
75.us for 5 years still isn't bad in the grand scheme of items.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> About time to buy some fish


XD
skip forward you see how they start to drop XD
https://youtu.be/M3eA6Ztcv0g?t=3043

fish aint giving me this temps XD
nothing fancy just crack window open mother nature do the rest XD

they should be lower than that but i had the fans on the rads in the pc itself inside adding heat into the loop...


----------



## tatmMRKIV

skupples said:


> for sure. the base model pump itself isn't too bad. I think the highest those get is $125-$150 (AquaComputer)
> 
> slap on the NEEDED accessories, and they're quickly gonna blow past MCP35x2's epic price/perf balance. Zero assembly, plug & play pump system.
> 
> people gonna buy what they're gonna buy, but all the disinformation doesn't help. "i'm an engineer & I had 10 of them die on me!" mhm. sure.
> 
> dual pump distros seem quite sketch to me. seems like you'd create a cyclone before getting your pumps above 30%. like old bay res mounts of days past.


the good ones are about 80$ homie, the 125$ aquacomputer is .... not my cup of tea.... I mean its got LEDs..... but a flow meter built in... I guess thats sorta worth it when u consider its 40$ or so minimum for flow sensor+display.

I am not saying you should buy the dual distro, I am just saying you could for the inaccurate prices you were putting out there. and how does that ddc combo dump outside the loop without heatsinks?



Shawnb99 said:


> Knowing the actual flow rate is ridiculous?


paying 60-200$ for junk or an aquero seems ridiculous to me when everything is what it is. see plenty of builds without em


----------



## Shawnb99

tatmMRKIV said:


> the good ones are about 80$ homie, the 125$ aquacomputer is .... not my cup of tea.... I mean its got LEDs..... but a flow meter built in... I guess thats sorta worth it when u consider its 40$ or so minimum for flow sensor+display.
> 
> I am not saying you should buy the dual distro, I am just saying you could for the inaccurate prices you were putting out there. and how does that ddc combo dump outside the loop without heatsinks?
> 
> 
> 
> paying 60-200$ for junk or an aquero seems ridiculous to me when everything is what it is. see plenty of builds without em


It dumps it into the case of the pump hence why it gets hot. At some point I guess the heat will go back into the loop if it's not cooled properly whereas a D5 dumps ALL of it's heat into the loop. 

Just because many builds don't include one doesn't mean one shouldn't be included. How else do you determine if you have enough flow without a meter?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I can get a general idea of flow just leak testing and reservoir activity seeing i use smaller reservoirs than most people = darn small case and long gpus


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I can get a general idea of flow just leak testing and reservoir activity seeing i use smaller reservoirs than most people = darn small case and long gpus


That's a very inaccurate way of telling how much flow. That's the main purpose of the flow meter, not to tell you if you have flow but how much.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> D5 pumps dump heat into the water not DDC’s. That’s why it gets hot, it’s not dumping heat into your loop. You have your facts backwards
> They have plenty of flow.


I experienced differently during a leak test with no fans running. My loop heated up and the DDC out of the box with no heatsink blistered my finger. Yes the D5s heated the loop also but the housings remained cool.

Plenty of flow is in the eyes of the beholder. 

In the end, I had my experience with DDCs due to their more compact design and after trials and tribulations went with D5s. Everyone is free to make their choices on what works for them, for me its D5s.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I experienced differently during a leak test with no fans running. My loop heated up and the DDC out of the box with no heatsink blistered my finger. Yes the D5s heated the loop also but the housings remained cool.
> 
> Plenty of flow is in the eyes of the beholder.
> 
> In the end, I had my experience with DDCs due to their more compact design and after trials and tribulations went with D5s. Everyone is free to make their choices on what works for them, for me its D5s.


Agree everyone will make the right decision for themselves. That is the journey of life.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ppl are complaining about flow rate... i add more rad space lol XD

if the loop aint quiet it aint a loop period XD


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> ppl are complaining about flow rate... i add more rad space lol XD
> 
> if the loop aint quiet it aint a loop period XD


Hi,
Think unless I missed it some are complaining about someone not being able to measure what flow rate is at any given moment 

As long as my water temp looks reasonable and I still have reservoir activity I'm a happy camper


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Think unless I missed it some are complaining about someone not being able to measure what flow rate is at any given moment
> 
> As long as my water temp looks reasonable and I still have reservoir activity I'm a happy camper


I never used a flow rate to measure perf.. i always use my Dt from water to measure the perf on my loop..
cant go wrong with that if you have a problem anywhere in your loop your water temp will tell you this from the get go.


----------



## Jpmboy

skupples said:


> for sure. the base model pump itself isn't too bad. I think the highest those get is $125-$150 (AquaComputer)
> 
> slap on the NEEDED accessories, and they're quickly gonna blow past MCP35x2's epic price/perf balance. Zero assembly, plug & play pump system.
> 
> people gonna buy what they're gonna buy, but all the disinformation doesn't help.* "i'm an engineer & I had 10 of them die on me!"* mhm. sure.
> 
> dual pump distros seem quite sketch to me. seems like you'd create a cyclone before getting your pumps above 30%. like old bay res mounts of days past.


I just love those statements... probably wouldn't want such engineer doing more than killing PC pumps.
On the other hand, folks drawing conclusions from any dataset/bar graph without error bars (1 StD at least, maybe?) - yeah, that's basically disinformation since there is no way to know if the numbers are actually different at all.
Good enough for a gaming rig is the metric.


----------



## skupples

tatmMRKIV said:


> the good ones are about 80$ homie, the 125$ aquacomputer is .... not my cup of tea.... I mean its got LEDs..... but a flow meter built in... I guess thats sorta worth it when u consider its 40$ or so minimum for flow sensor+display.
> 
> I am not saying you should buy the dual distro, I am just saying you could for the inaccurate prices you were putting out there. and how does that ddc combo dump outside the loop without heatsinks?
> 
> 
> 
> paying 60-200$ for junk or an aquero seems ridiculous to me when everything is what it is. see plenty of builds without em


idk about anyone else, but I put cheap metal cups on mine almost immediately. Swiftech's included top was the best top at the time, so all I needed to do was cup em, and get a little cross flow on em. (radiator wash is good enough) (i t ried XSPC's tops. they kept leeking)

as for aquaero... all depends what you want/are doing. OCD people love making things overly complex, and that's exactly what aquacomputer caters towards on this side of their business. 

they're also for people like me running 2-4 pumps, 40+ fans, a few temp sensors, and a mech flow meter. Otherwise, you could get away with a single quadro or similar with smaller builds. Aquasuite is what you're really paying for, IMO. It's by far the best cooling management tool in our segment. (note, many of us have had our 5s and 6s long before any of those other components were released)

Yes, at this point, they have a ton of overlapping / redundant devices. They've made the Aquaero itself all but unnecessary for new customers, unless they're doing a yuge build. I only recommend the screenless version at this point, unless its a caselabs user.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

skupples said:


> idk about anyone else, but I put cheap metal cups on mine almost immediately. Swiftech's included top was the best top at the time, so all I needed to do was cup em, and get a little cross flow on em. (radiator wash is good enough) (i t ried XSPC's tops. they kept leeking)
> 
> as for aquaero... all depends what you want/are doing. OCD people love making things overly complex, and that's exactly what aquacomputer caters towards on this side of their business.
> 
> they're also for people like me running 2-4 pumps, 40+ fans, a few temp sensors, and a mech flow meter. Otherwise, you could get away with a single quadro or similar with smaller builds. Aquasuite is what you're really paying for, IMO. It's by far the best cooling management tool in our segment. (note, many of us have had our 5s and 6s long before any of those other components were released)
> 
> Yes, at this point, they have a ton of overlapping / redundant devices. They've made the Aquaero itself all but unnecessary for new customers, unless they're doing a yuge build. I only recommend the screenless version at this point, unless its a caselabs user.


yea I tend to be more on the OCD side, I have been doing 2 separate loops in every build till now possibly. (another reason I never have gone with dual pumps before), so every time I spec them out its double the sensors and everything else, I had no idea I'd be basically better off skipping the display model, also, I am used to software suites being crap.


if not the new EK-connect has a flow and temp sensor option on the horizon.


----------



## skupples

That's nice of EK, but it'll take em years and years to get anywhere near what you can do with Aquasuite. 

Aquasuite is worth every penny. It's an incredibly powerful, well designed & well tuned machine. They've been working on it for over a decade now, and only has to be re-licensed every 5 years.

my up coming rebuild where I plan to split my loop will employ 2x dual pumps.  redundancy, power, and quiet.


----------



## Section31

tatmMRKIV said:


> yea I tend to be more on the OCD side, I have been doing 2 separate loops in every build till now possibly. (another reason I never have gone with dual pumps before), so every time I spec them out its double the sensors and everything else, I had no idea I'd be basically better off skipping the display model, also, I am used to software suites being crap.
> 
> 
> if not the new EK-connect has a flow and temp sensor option on the horizon.


I will say we are starting to see an turn around in EKWB since they removed the previous CEO (who is now at Corsair). Still don't trust them but the new management team seems to be coming out with better products of late.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> That's nice of EK, but it'll take em years and years to get anywhere near what you can do with Aquasuite.
> 
> Aquasuite is worth every penny. It's an incredibly powerful, well designed & well tuned machine. They've been working on it for over a decade now, and only has to be re-licensed every 5 years.
> 
> my up coming rebuild where I plan to split my loop will employ 2x dual pumps.  redundancy, power, and quiet.


Totally, the good thing is just buy another pump or controller and you renew your license. The last couple water builds i've been doing over the last 2 years, all have aquacomputer quadro/aquereo 6 lt and d5 next's. My friends are lucky to have someone like me.


----------



## skupples

Section31 said:


> Totally, the good thing is just buy another pump or controller and you renew your license. The last couple water builds i've been doing over the last 2 years, all have aquacomputer quadro/aquereo 6 lt and d5 next's. My friends are lucky to have someone like me.


really? so this stack of quadros I recently acquired will renew my license? that's cool. 

its simple.

calling aquasuite a monitoring tool vastly understates its capabilities, that's all I know.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Hit the SigV2 a little more with some 1k grit makes the name pop 
Needs some buffing compound  @OptimusWC need a steam punk line


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> really? so this stack of quadros I recently acquired will renew my license? that's cool.
> 
> its simple.
> 
> calling aquasuite a monitoring tool vastly understates its capabilities, that's all I know.


It functions like that per say but really the new device allowed the software to renew. Often times, you need to update the other device for it to continue working.


----------



## Section31

Delete


----------



## Jpmboy

I'm still using Aquasuite that came with my Aq 720 Mark 4 (asks me to upgrade every time... "No"). One of the first 720s AQ made. Loaded the same old software to run a new Aq 6 Pro for a caselabs rig, runs fine. Haven't needed to "subscribe"... yet.
frankly, ya really don't look to aquacomputer for low prices/cheap stuff. My old 7970's had AQ blocks! 

check the Total uptime below, The Eheim pump in that 720XT has been pushing a measly 80LPH for years!


----------



## skupples

Jpmboy said:


> I'm still using Aquasuite that came with my Aq 720 Mark 4 (asks me to upgrade every time... "No"). One of the first 720s AQ made. Loaded the same old software to run a new Aq 6 Pro for a caselabs rig, runs fine. Haven't needed to "subscribe"... yet.
> frankly, ya really don't look to aquacomputer for low prices/cheap stuff. My old 7970's had AQ blocks!
> 
> check the Total uptime below, The Eheim pump in that 720XT has been pushing a measly 80LPH for years!


i'm trying to remember what caused me to be FORCED to renew my license. 

I re-installed from an old .exe on a new windows install one day, & was forced to relicense & flash before I was able to regain controls. I remember being like "huh, this seems a bit aggressive, locking out settings until I firmware update" then after that update it stated how my license had expired.

stranger yet, my ancient 5 still syncs with aquqsuite just fine.


----------



## Jpmboy

skupples said:


> i'm trying to remember what caused me to be FORCED to renew my license.
> 
> I re-installed from an old .exe on a new windows install one day, & was forced to relicense & flash before I was able to regain controls. I remember being like "huh, this seems a bit aggressive, locking out settings until I firmware update" then after that update it stated how my license had expired.
> 
> stranger yet, my ancient 5 still syncs with aquqsuite just fine.


Oh yeah, the early 5s were/are bullet proof. That software license crap is very aggressive and really not welcome. Ya pay a lot for AQ quality, the software to run it should be free IMO. Does make for very complete on-screen display of data tho. 

from the Aq6Pro:


----------



## skupples

it is what it is, specially with no zero competition for their products within a mile of quality or reliability.


----------



## JustinThyme

I’ve been at the aquaero for a few years now and I also got hit up with the license renewal once on the 6 Pro on a new install even though I saved the data file. 

I’ve added two components and what’s weird is they didn’t start the license from the date of install. I have like 3 different expiration dates showing. One for aquaero, another for D5 Next and another for a quadro.

The next being a couple of years out. When I installed that I had to upgrade the software which didn’t cost anything then upgrades to firmware on all devices. 

Only other options I’ve tried is the MOBO that just sucks. The other is Corsair commander that what kills it is the hysteresis. I keep a pretty tight coolant temp range 28C to 32C. 

The aquaero software runs it like a champ through multiple curve controllers with slow ramps up and down where no matter what I did with the other two I had annoying fast ramp up and back down of fans even with no load. 

I always use liquid temp as a control point. I seldom see the 32C point even under heavy loads. Usually maxes out around 31C with fans not quite to max. Now the new software has selectable profiles which I haven’t explored yet. 4 profiles that I’m assuming can be used for different curves and set points so you can go from max OC and let it rip or if you are using a more modest power profile to go to near dead silent.


----------



## skupples

hmm... I'm gonna have to go hit up the faq & figure out how all this device demonetization works before I expand my arsenal. I've been using not-AC fan hubs since forever, i can keep using em forever if they're gonna have a renewal every few years  (pretty sure it was 5 years, changing PCs shouldn't affect it, pretty sure the key is stored in the device.)

there's similar looking hardware, but nothing matches the software. 

can't even remember the name of the company that makes the matching set of sensors & stuff. maybe byskki or barrow?


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> hmm... I'm gonna have to go hit up the faq & figure out how all this device demonetization works before I expand my arsenal. I've been using not-AC fan hubs since forever, i can keep using em forever if they're gonna have a renewal every few years  (pretty sure it was 5 years, changing PCs shouldn't affect it, pretty sure the key is stored in the device.)
> 
> there's similar looking hardware, but nothing matches the software.
> 
> can't even remember the name of the company that makes the matching set of sensors & stuff. maybe byskki or barrow?


Oh NO, Not the "B" words! LOL

I would think they were stored somewhere or at least should be. I can only pass along what I experienced. I think I had been running the 6 Pro about two years before the reinstall and the necessity to renew the license. Ha, just checked and there is a new Update as of yesterday! Going to update but heres a screenie of the different dates. The D5 carries it until August 2021. Have to register for the insider versions as Id not seen that tick box before. Off to update and see if new firware also comes about. Ill take what I can get. Whats strange is the quadro was a newer addition after the D5 Next. Guess it revolved around serial number date. All my other fans ran fine off of one of the fan outputs of the 6 Pro to silverstone PWM powered splitters. I put Noctua industrial 2000 rpm fans up top to go with the HW labs GTR 420 and they had two speeds. Unplugged full bore or plugged in, even to their own splitter they went to ZERO! Put them on a quadro and they work perfectly now. 

The software is definitely top notch. The only thing is there is no "user manual" that comes with it. Everything I learned was on their forum digging around and asking questions. Its a learning curve but once you get it you got it and the on screen display is awesome. You can take up your whole screen with everything if you want, I have mine with the important stuff docked top right. Even setting that up takes some time as its not just as simple as click and go. That's why I save the data file, Just that part took me the better part of a day to do. Their activation download and activation can be a PITA. First time whipped my a$$ over something that seems irrelevant but that simple thing kept me from downloading and activating. Initial Windows Install and I had not changed the time zone from the standard pacific time that is default to my EST time zone. Changed that and booohyaah.


----------



## JustinThyme

Updated software and now firmware needs to be done on the quadro and D5 Next. The 6 pro is good to go.
Just noted the reason I got the new profile selection. Only applies to D5 and Quadro. Have to see what that does next.


----------



## skupples

policy has evolved as much as the software - 

https://licensing.aquacomputer.de/shop/aquasuite

main take away - 

it's an update service attachment. current devices are 6-30 months. (almost positive my renewal was for 5 years, almost 5 years ago, but I purged my emails, so no purchase history anymore.)

Do I need the update service for each device?
No! It is sufficient if only one of the devices connected via USB has a valid update service for the currently used aquasuite version.
The status of the other devices is irrelevant in this case.
---------------------------------
plz gib gpu blox.


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> policy has evolved as much as the software -
> 
> https://licensing.aquacomputer.de/shop/aquasuite
> 
> main take away -
> 
> it's an update service attachment. current devices are 6-30 months. (almost positive my renewal was for 5 years, almost 5 years ago, but I purged my emails, so no purchase history anymore.)
> 
> Do I need the update service for each device?
> No! It is sufficient if only one of the devices connected via USB has a valid update service for the currently used aquasuite version.
> The status of the other devices is irrelevant in this case.
> ---------------------------------
> plz gib gpu blox.


As long as it works, Im good. I have another year anyhow.

Dunno whats up with Optimus now. They came out like a comet now just drifting off to sleep. I understand they are small but Im still waiting on the spring less mount kit I requested when they first came available as the mount was my chief complaint. I was told they were in the process of being made for X299 then see them as the standard kit available in the online store, same day I was promised as soon as they have them Id get them in the mail. As of now my springless mount is simply the springed mount without the springs. I think the only difference is the thumb nuts being solid instead of hollowed out for the springs. No pic of the studs that look any different. Been 3 weeks.


----------



## oreonutz

JustinThyme said:


> ...The other is Corsair commander that what kills it is the hysteresis...


I don't know if I am the only person that had a HORRIBLE experience with the Commander Pro. Granted I had purchased mine right after it came out, but I have tried to include it into a few different Air Cooled Builds since, and no matter which clean OS I put it on, or which Hardware I use with it (AMD, or Intel), it just freaks out. Sometimes within 5 Minutes of Booting, sometimes it takes a few hours, but no matter what I always end up loosing Fan Channels, and the only way I can ever get them back is by Flashing the Firmware, then the Fan Channel will come back, and then no matter what within a few hours, One to 2 of the Fan Channel's will randomly drop out. And its never the same Fan Channel's, its happened with all 6 at one time or another. That on top of iCue crashing, makes for a horrible experience.

The Aquaero on the other hand, I have NEVER had an issue. Once you learn the software and program the Aquaero to your liking, everything just works. No Crashing, no losing fan channels, no crazy Fan Curve movement (The Commander would also randomly speed up or slow down even though the temperature was static), it literally just does what you tell it, which for me makes the Aquaero 6 LT worth the extra $40 over the Commander Pro.

I have heard other people having decent experiences with the Commander Pro, but I wasn't willing to purchase another one after my experience. On the other hand I have used the Lighting Pro Node for Lighting, and will just install iCue, then setup the Hardware Profile for the Lighting Node pro, and get the lighting set up how I want, then Uninstall iCue, and the Lighting will just keep continuing to work. So I consider the Lighting Node Pro a solid product, I wish I could say the same about the Commander Pro, but the Aquaero blows it out of the water in every metric...



JustinThyme said:


> As long as it works, Im good. I have another year anyhow.
> 
> Dunno whats up with Optimus now. They came out like a comet now just drifting off to sleep. I understand they are small but Im still waiting on the spring less mount kit I requested when they first came available as the mount was my chief complaint. I was told they were in the process of being made for X299 then see them as the standard kit available in the online store, same day I was promised as soon as they have them Id get them in the mail. As of now my springless mount is simply the springed mount without the springs. I think the only difference is the thumb nuts being solid instead of hollowed out for the springs. No pic of the studs that look any different. Been 3 weeks.


I would give them some time. I know it sucks to wait, but you can expect when they are ready, they will come back out with a bang. I much prefer to wait and allow them to do it right, rather than them to succumb to pressure and launch products before its ready. I am sure your Springless mount kit will be taken care of at some point, I am sure its frustrating to continue to wait, but I shouldn't think you would be waiting too much longer, you can always reach out and kindly nudge them, I am sure @Optimus WC would be happy to take care of you.


----------



## JustinThyme

oreonutz said:


> I don't know if I am the only person that had a HORRIBLE experience with the Commander Pro. Granted I had purchased mine right after it came out, but I have tried to include it into a few different Air Cooled Builds since, and no matter which clean OS I put it on, or which Hardware I use with it (AMD, or Intel), it just freaks out. Sometimes within 5 Minutes of Booting, sometimes it takes a few hours, but no matter what I always end up loosing Fan Channels, and the only way I can ever get them back is by Flashing the Firmware, then the Fan Channel will come back, and then no matter what within a few hours, One to 2 of the Fan Channel's will randomly drop out. And its never the same Fan Channel's, its happened with all 6 at one time or another. That on top of iCue crashing, makes for a horrible experience.
> 
> The Aquaero on the other hand, I have NEVER had an issue. Once you learn the software and program the Aquaero to your liking, everything just works. No Crashing, no losing fan channels, no crazy Fan Curve movement (The Commander would also randomly speed up or slow down even though the temperature was static), it literally just does what you tell it, which for me makes the Aquaero 6 LT worth the extra $40 over the Commander Pro.
> 
> I have heard other people having decent experiences with the Commander Pro, but I wasn't willing to purchase another one after my experience. On the other hand I have used the Lighting Pro Node for Lighting, and will just install iCue, then setup the Hardware Profile for the Lighting Node pro, and get the lighting set up how I want, then Uninstall iCue, and the Lighting will just keep continuing to work. So I consider the Lighting Node Pro a solid product, I wish I could say the same about the Commander Pro, but the Aquaero blows it out of the water in every metric...
> 
> 
> 
> I would give them some time. I know it sucks to wait, but you can expect when they are ready, they will come back out with a bang. I much prefer to wait and allow them to do it right, rather than them to succumb to pressure and launch products before its ready. I am sure your Springless mount kit will be taken care of at some point, I am sure its frustrating to continue to wait, but I shouldn't think you would be waiting too much longer, you can always reach out and kindly nudge them, I am sure @Optimus WC would be happy to take care of you.


Im just after The springlees mounting kit as the thumb nuts dont have recessed holes for the springs and will make better contact with the mounting tabs on the block. I know they are still working on Threadripper and GPU blocks I cant run anyhow.


----------



## Shawnb99

Got an email yesterday, my springless mounts are on the way!

Now on to the bigger question what’s the ETA on Kingpin/FTW3 blocks? Anytime soon?
At this rate the 3080TI’s will be out before a 2080ti block is out.

Should we expect this long if a wait for that series of blocks?


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Got an email yesterday, my springless mounts are on the way!
> 
> Now on to the bigger question what’s the ETA on Kingpin/FTW3 blocks? Anytime soon?
> At this rate the 3080TI’s will be out before a 2080ti block is out.
> 
> Should we expect this long if a wait for that series of blocks?


Hi,
A long time ago @Optimus WC asked what is the market of gpu blocks to order or send your gpu in and they can make a block for it 
Sounds pretty cool seeing you'd be providing a real sample for the manufacture to template and possibly at a little discount for letting them use your gpu


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> A long time ago @Optimus WC asked what is the market of gpu blocks to order or send your gpu in and they can make a block for it
> 
> Sounds pretty cool seeing you'd be providing a real sample for the manufacture to template and possibly at a little discount for letting them use your gpu




I’d actually be willing to do that if they don’t get provided samples before release.


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> Got an email yesterday, my springless mounts are on the way!
> 
> Now on to the bigger question what’s the ETA on Kingpin/FTW3 blocks? Anytime soon?
> At this rate the 3080TI’s will be out before a 2080ti block is out.
> 
> Should we expect this long if a wait for that series of blocks?


or you know, reference blocks.



Shawnb99 said:


> I’d actually be willing to do that if they don’t get provided samples before release.


Why? do they have a operating budget of pennies? they can buy their own post-release GPUs...

are they a small shop or a broke shop? !


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> I’d actually be willing to do that if they don’t get provided samples before release.


Hi,
Yeah no one gets samples of every type of gpu 
FTW3 is a custom board as you well know it isn't a FE


----------



## zGunBLADEz

thats why i stick to reference gpus quick event i pull out of my trusty koolance 220 for quick tests... the ek-vga universal not even close like not even 10c close
damn i havent find a gpu block that cools like them...


----------



## blitzkrieg666

Bart said:


> I had to flip the block 180 degrees since the flow comes into the top port of the CPU. In the reversing, the bloody o-ring for the block would NOT re-seat properly. The block is so new the o-ring hadn't been 'trained' yet (note the top right corner of the pic below). I prefer Heatkiller (again) in this regard, since there's a channel cut into the acrylic for the o-ring. But it's not leaking yet, and that's all that matters.


omg @Bart!, i believe nobody mentioned this yet; you'll need to fix the o-ring with the acrylic top plate screwed on *first*, meaning with the cold plate off. There are grooves specially for the o-ring to seat between the bracket and top plate. I found this the hardway as i also attempted to flip it 180 degrees. So you better re-seat your o-rings if you havent done so.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I've disassembled both optimus blocks several times the o-rings stick pretty well where they are supposed too putting them back in 
Foundation comes out easier than the sigV2 though I did notice that 

Pretty much why I requested more o-rings the sigV2 seems it might get damaged trying to remove it eventually.


----------



## blitzkrieg666

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I've disassembled both optimus blocks several times the o-rings stick pretty well where they are supposed too putting them back in
> Foundation comes out easier than the sigV2 though I did notice that
> 
> Pretty much why I requested more o-rings the sigV2 seems it might get damaged trying to remove it eventually.


cool, i think your o-rings are 'trained' well over time/heat. yes spare o-rings would be nice.


----------



## ThrashZone

blitzkrieg666 said:


> cool, i think your o-rings are 'trained' well over time/heat. yes spare o-rings would be nice.


Hi,
I disassembled as soon as I got it to make sure it was clean 
No problem reassembling it 
Just have to hold a couple corners while fitting the rest in 
Once all is in on the foundation it pretty much stays in place 
Trick is to get the cold plate on so you don't have to move it and get the screws snugged up asap.


----------



## Bart

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I've disassembled both optimus blocks several times the o-rings stick pretty well where they are supposed too putting them back in
> Foundation comes out easier than the sigV2 though I did notice that
> 
> Pretty much why I requested more o-rings the sigV2 seems it might get damaged trying to remove it eventually.


Without grooved channels for the O-rings, you're better off not changing the direction of the top until the o-ring has been trained a bit. Mine isn't leaking, but in my mind this is a clearly inferior solution compared to other blocks.


----------



## blitzkrieg666

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I disassembled as soon as I got it to make sure it was clean
> No problem reassembling it
> Just have to hold a couple corners while fitting the rest in
> Once all is in on the foundation it pretty much stays in place
> Trick is to get the cold plate on so you don't have to move it and get the screws snugged up asap.


ah strange, mine almost instantly moves to its natural 'O' state/shape upon removing top plate. varies i guess? or my ambient was like 29°C on disassembly and its humid here.
anyway thats what the grooves inbetween the top plate and bracket is for, to hold em o-ring exactly in place.


----------



## ThrashZone

Bart said:


> Without grooved channels for the O-rings, you're better off not changing the direction of the top until the o-ring has been trained a bit. Mine isn't leaking, but in my mind this is a clearly inferior solution compared to other blocks.


Hi,
AMD version must be a little different Intel's foundation fits okay.

Not sure what fluid you use but you could dampen the o-rings and that should make it tacky to where it might stay in place a bit better.

Gpu/ cpu blocks all o-rings can be a challenge to keep in place especially gpu blocks


----------



## blitzkrieg666

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> AMD version must be a little different Intel's foundation fits okay.
> 
> Not sure what fluid you use but you could dampen the o-rings and that should make it tacky to where it might stay in place a bit better.
> 
> Gpu/ cpu blocks all o-rings can be a challenge to keep in place especially gpu blocks


ah make sense, maybe the AMD and Intel are different in o-ring seating?
circled in red is what i was talking about, which will be a 'complete' groove once the bracket is screwed on.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Intel looks the same system.
But that o-ring does do a lot of curves no doubt.
Just try getting the o-ring tacky with something coolant works very well and just pat it down a little and it should be sticky enough to stay in place.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> or you know, reference blocks.


They delay for those has me concerned about the how long it'll take to get Ampere blocks designed and sold. Unless they have already started and that's the actual delay...


----------



## cdoublejj

so i'm looking to get an AM4 block. i'll be upgrading my lowley power sipping 1600AF with a ryzen 4000 8-10 core. i hear the optimus and ek magnitude are the top blocks, maybe a better choice than cheap bykski block? i was going to get bykski block for gpu (rtx2070) too.


----------



## blitzkrieg666

*Optimus vs Barrow blocks*

I got around on testing the AMD Foundation vs Barrow LTYK3X-04 V1, and found lowered of ~2°C delta on average. This was non-scientific tested with:
1) non-avx P95 in-place FFT min/max 128K
2) constant fan ~1120rpm on 2x 360mm rads
3) constant pump ~2000rpm
4) water temp stabilised at 30°C after 40mins
5) room ambient ~27°C with A/C (i'm in the tropics, 1degree from the equator with 33°C+)
Temp measurements was off delta of HWiNFO CPU Die and water temp EC_Temp1 on Aorus x570 Master:







I'm guessing the low difference between the 2 blocks is i'm not pushing as hard on my 3950X?:
1) No PBO, stock with -0.0812V undervolt = ~1.107V (multimeter measured on mobo)
2) SOC 1.036V (multimeter measured on mobo)
3) rams at 3600MHz and IF 1800MHz
4) average PPT of 120Watts (HWiNFO)
5) average CPU die for Optimus 59°C (HWiNFO)








Whats this? Fins for ants?







Thumbnuts sits exactly within the PCB circle







Plastic washers needed for the post's surface area.







Kryonaut was manually spread on IHS and was making good contact on both test. Optimus block backplate-less and screwed on hand tight. Acrylic top rotated 180° as per Optimus site to match the 2 chiplets. What you guys think? Subpar:confuseds?


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> They delay for those has me concerned about the how long it'll take to get Ampere blocks designed and sold. Unless they have already started and that's the actual delay...


highly doubt the continued delay has anything to do with Ampere.

hoping he has some good news soon. Been a minute since they've acknowledged their existence. At least, on this here backwater forum. =)


----------



## Jpmboy

fast, cheap, right - you can only have two.


----------



## skupples

Jpmboy said:


> fast, cheap, right - you can only have two.


my last ex's dad used to say something similar...


----------



## Jpmboy

skupples said:


> my last ex's dad used to say something similar...


true for wifes too.


----------



## skupples

the messed up part is he then said his daughter was a 1 star (looks only) bwahaha.


He wasn't wrong.


----------



## Section31

I think Ampere will still be launched on time, just like big Navi and all consoles. It's just going be an bigger paper launch only than before. Normal stuff, just order direct from Nvidia/AMD if you really want to be an early adopter. Delays ultimately are not good for your future products launchs, it screws up the followup products too.

My family was personally effected by BMW/Audi decision to delay its launch from 2008/2009 to 2010/2011 for the F10 5 Series and C7 Audi A6 models as the 2002 BMW X5 was starting to get expensive repair bills (normal for BMW-hidden costs of ownership). We only like to buy cars that are new models based on new chassis and willing to pay to reserve to get the launch vehicles. When they were finally announced, the recently announced Mini Countryman caught our eye instead and we did not like the final designs for both cars. 

Americans are lucky with there car prices. Car prices are really crazy in places like HK (100% tax on car and options) and in Singapore (you need to buy an COE before you can even buy an car there - which adds up to 200%). That's why Tesla sold so well in Hong Kong, the government had some eco-friendly loopholes that basically reduced the 100% tax to zero so tesla could charge the cars at US MSRP. They did eventually shut down that loophole before the Model 3 could launch. It would have been unheard that you could buy a brand new car like base model Model 3 for 200,000ish HKD and would have sold even more crazy.


----------



## JustinThyme

blitzkrieg666 said:


> I got around on testing the AMD Foundation vs Barrow LTYK3X-04 V1, and found lowered of ~2°C delta on average. This was non-scientific tested with:
> 1) non-avx P95 in-place FFT min/max 128K
> 2) constant fan ~1120rpm on 2x 360mm rads
> 3) constant pump ~2000rpm
> 4) water temp stabilised at 30°C after 40mins
> 5) room ambient ~27°C with A/C (i'm in the tropics, 1degree from the equator with 33°C+)
> Temp measurements was off delta of HWiNFO CPU Die and water temp EC_Temp1 on Aorus x570 Master:
> View attachment 330952
> 
> I'm guessing the low difference between the 2 blocks is i'm not pushing as hard on my 3950X?:
> 1) No PBO, stock with -0.0812V undervolt = ~1.107V (multimeter measured on mobo)
> 2) SOC 1.036V (multimeter measured on mobo)
> 3) rams at 3600MHz and IF 1800MHz
> 4) average PPT of 120Watts (HWiNFO)
> 5) average CPU die for Optimus 59°C (HWiNFO)
> 
> Another is loop control i auto 20 min run on blender classroom with no AVX offset
> 
> You have to wind them up to get a good difference. I can put an air block on mine at idle and a the cheapest blocko n the market and get similar results. First step, Can the P95 and put a real AVX wordload on their and jack the clock and Vcore. If you arent getting near 80C loaded with a 27C ambient what you are using to bench with isnt pushing it hard enough. Run blender with no AVX offset and jack that clock speed as far as it weill go and remain stable. Undervolt? should be over volted.
> 
> heres a sample run I just did on my 9940X no AVX offset with AVX workload. 1.225Vcore @4.8GHZ all cores. CCut my flow back 200L/Hr
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 330962
> 
> Whats this? Fins for ants?
> View attachment 330964
> 
> Thumbnuts sits exactly within the PCB circle
> View attachment 330966
> 
> Plastic washers needed for the post's surface area.
> View attachment 330968
> 
> Kryonaut was manually spread on IHS and was making good contact on both test. Optimus block backplate-less and screwed on hand tight. Acrylic top rotated 180° as per Optimus site to match the 2 chiplets. What you guys think? Subpar:confuseds?


You need to push it to see differences. can P95 for starters.

20 minute blender animation 4.8 Ghz 1.225Vcore no avx offset
Second one 40 min RB stress with Blender, handbrake, and open CL on CPU all at the same time
Tird sample you can see how temps drop if an avx ofset of 2. 

These are all the same block, Optimus Sig V2. 
one I did tonight no AVX offest 100% fans and flow back ffro 590zL/M to 407/M
Last one to show how wimpy AIDA 64 CPU only is.
And lets toque it up to 4.9 1/250Vcore no AVX offet and get it cooking followed by CB same settings

These are all the same block. If you want to see what one will do over the other take the low performer and run it until it cant take no more then leave the settings and change blocks. Undervolted isnt going to go anywhere in the realms of comparisons. If anything a straight run of an AVX work load at stock settings would be a better comparison but not what people really want to see out of flagship blocks.

Push those puppies for all you can get then compare. I think Im going to use the Blender classroom 20 min run 4.8 Ghz all cores 1.225V no avx offset for a reference, Nice and toasty without being off the charts.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> blitzkrieg666 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I got around on testing the AMD Foundation vs Barrow LTYK3X-04 V1, and found lowered of ~2Â°C delta on average. This was non-scientific tested with:
> 1) non-avx P95 in-place FFT min/max 128K
> 2) constant fan ~1120rpm on 2x 360mm rads
> 3) constant pump ~2000rpm
> 4) water temp stabilised at 30Â°C after 40mins
> 5) room ambient ~27Â°C with A/C (i'm in the tropics, 1degree from the equator with 33Â°C+)
> Temp measurements was off delta of HWiNFO CPU Die and water temp EC_Temp1 on Aorus x570 Master:
> View attachment 330952
> 
> I'm guessing the low difference between the 2 blocks is i'm not pushing as hard on my 3950X?:
> 1) No PBO, stock with -0.0812V undervolt = ~1.107V (multimeter measured on mobo)
> 2) SOC 1.036V (multimeter measured on mobo)
> 3) rams at 3600MHz and IF 1800MHz
> 4) average PPT of 120Watts (HWiNFO)
> 5) average CPU die for Optimus 59Â°C (HWiNFO)
> 
> Another is loop control i auto 20 min run on blender classroom with no AVX offset
> 
> You have to wind them up to get a good difference. I can put an air block on mine at idle and a the cheapest blocko n the market and get similar results. First step, Can the P95 and put a real AVX wordload on their and jack the clock and Vcore. If you arent getting near 80C loaded with a 27C ambient what you are using to bench with isnt pushing it hard enough. Run blender with no AVX offset and jack that clock speed as far as it weill go and remain stable. Undervolt? should be over volted.
> 
> heres a sample run I just did on my 9940X no AVX offset with AVX workload. 1.225Vcore @4.8GHZ all cores. CCut my flow back 200L/Hr
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 330962
> 
> Whats this? Fins for ants?/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> View attachment 330964
> 
> Thumbnuts sits exactly within the PCB circle
> View attachment 330966
> 
> Plastic washers needed for the post's surface area.
> View attachment 330968
> 
> Kryonaut was manually spread on IHS and was making good contact on both test. Optimus block backplate-less and screwed on hand tight. Acrylic top rotated 180Â° as per Optimus site to match the 2 chiplets. What you guys think? Subpar/forum/images/smilies/confusedsmiley.png?
> 
> 
> 
> You need to push it to see differences. can P95 for starters.
> 
> 20 minute blender animation 4.8 Ghz 1.225Vcore no avx offset
> Second one 40 min RB stress with Blender, handbrake, and open CL on CPU all at the same time
> Tird sample you can see how temps drop if an avx ofset of 2.
> 
> These are all the same block, Optimus Sig V2.
> one I did tonight no AVX offest 100% fans and flow back ffro 590zL/M to 407/M
> Last one to show how wimpy AIDA 64 CPU only is.
> And lets toque it up to 4.9 1/250Vcore no AVX offet and get it cooking followed by CB same settings
> 
> These are all the same block. If you want to see what one will do over the other take the low performer and run it until it cant take no more then leave the settings and change blocks. Undervolted isnt going to go anywhere in the realms of comparisons. If anything a straight run of an AVX work load at stock settings would be a better comparison but not what people really want to see out of flagship blocks.
> 
> Push those puppies for all you can get then compare.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your tips. We really need to have an good guide on how to properly test the cooling. The information is all over the place (aida, prime95, realbench and how long to).

I really wish there was an more smaller and portable chiller or other higher end cooling than water available. Right now those other solutions are not practical for the average person.

I see some of the people here who have hcrazy temperatures (sub 60s) 7980xe at high clocks all core and always was wondering what cooling it took to get that performance. My goal is one day to have one of those system’s but looks amazing too. Not fan of having external setup myself.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Thanks for your tips. We really need to have an good guide on how to properly test the cooling. The information is all over the place (aida, prime95, realbench and how long to).
> 
> I really wish there was an more smaller and portable chiller or other higher end cooling than water available. Right now those other solutions are not practical for the average person.
> 
> I see some of the people here who have hcrazy temperatures (sub 60s) 7980xe at high clocks all core and always was wondering what cooling it took to get that performance. My goal is one day to have one of those system’s but looks amazing too. Not fan of having external setup myself.


Hi,
Depends on the chip 
P95 on hedt is silly it's already got thermal issues with a ton of cores 

Best substitute is blender short and long test
If you want to loop just install blender and download the free demo files and render animation and let it run as long as you want too.

Real bench too run as many passes you want too.

AIDA64 is really a cache and memory stability test I usually pass on that one it's just too long to use for small settings changes.
Just use normal benchmarks to judge good or bad results unless your a folder or bionic ninja then ask them crazies


----------



## Jpmboy

skupples said:


> the messed up part is he then said his daughter was a 1 star (looks only) bwahaha.
> He wasn't wrong.


Hey man, how did George Carlin put it when sitting next to a 10 (when asked by Johnny Carson)? ... He'd rather have five 2s. :laughings


----------



## ciarlatano

Jpmboy said:


> Hey man, how did George Carlin put it when sitting next to a 10 (when asked by Johnny Carson)? ... He'd rather have five 2s. :laughings


Which is certainly less offensive (and far more legal) than Roman Polanski's similar quote....


----------



## qes27

Optimus WC said:


> So good news! We've finished up the final tweaks on the block... So now it's all hands on deck getting these blocks out the door!! ...we'll be shipping soon


How many more weeks, couple more still, more than a month?


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

The hate on DDCs I think is undeserved. I've run various versions for over 10 years in my builds because I thought the D5 in its original vario form was too noisy and whiny for me.

The lazy person's guide to DDC's as I see it:
6W DDC - silent but very low flow
10W DDC - near silent, will push good flow in most setups (ran one 8 years nearly 24/7 in a CPU/GPU/MB/480mm rad loop with awesome temps). Runs cool to warm. I run this on my 280/Signature V2 loop and it flows plenty.
18W DDC - this is where it's no fun for the silent runners. Whiny at full speed, but incredible flow and pressure. It also runs quite warm at full speed, so a heatsink mount or at least adequate airflow is probably best for long life. 

The only times I've ever had a DDC failure was my own fault. Burned one up when my loop clogged.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Thanks for your tips. We really need to have an good guide on how to properly test the cooling. The information is all over the place (aida, prime95, realbench and how long to).
> 
> I really wish there was an more smaller and portable chiller or other higher end cooling than water available. Right now those other solutions are not practical for the average person.
> 
> I see some of the people here who have hcrazy temperatures (sub 60s) 7980xe at high clocks all core and always was wondering what cooling it took to get that performance. My goal is one day to have one of those system’s but looks amazing too. Not fan of having external setup myself.


Like I said firs thing it to can the equation P95=how to make PC into space heater.
There are a few chillers on the market but bot are they proud of them. Ive been consider one made for a laser device thats 1500Watts and 1/3 the price of a koolance 800W. Thing with those is though its either an alternative that you dont get carried away with or you have to deal with condensation that will blow a MOBO and maybe the CPU is you arent careful. Id just like one to run just above the dew point. 

Alot of those sub 60 temps is what you call PC on the balcony during a Canadian winter. The really crazy ones go much lower. Phase change cases have been around for a long time but again, those go sub zero so a lot of prep work to keep things from cooking. 

Big thing is a workload that will push the thermal limits near 80C IMO. When I see the so called pro bench marks with 30s and 40s I laugh as I know its a stock running rig with a small load which equates t....who friggen cares! 



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Depends on the chip
> P95 on hedt is silly it's already got thermal issues with a ton of cores
> 
> Best substitute is blender short and long test
> If you want to loop just install blender and download the free demo files and render animation and let it run as long as you want too.
> 
> Real bench too run as many passes you want too.
> 
> AIDA64 is really a cache and memory stability test I usually pass on that one it's just too long to use for small settings changes.
> Just use normal benchmarks to judge good or bad results unless your a folder or bionic ninja then ask them crazies


P95 is antiquated and just generates heat. AIDA64 is weak at CPU only but better if you add the FPU check box as well as cache and is OK for memory stability but there are better ones out there. No need to stress drives and 3D marks is far better at stressing GPUs



Jpmboy said:


> Hey man, how did George Carlin put it when sitting next to a 10 (when asked by Johnny Carson)? ... He'd rather have five 2s. :laughings


 Yeah two fives or 5 2s with 6 bags are also are awesome!



Voodoo Rufus said:


> The hate on DDCs I think is undeserved. I've run various versions for over 10 years in my builds because I thought the D5 in its original vario form was too noisy and whiny for me.
> 
> The lazy person's guide to DDC's as I see it:
> 6W DDC - silent but very low flow
> 10W DDC - near silent, will push good flow in most setups (ran one 8 years nearly 24/7 in a CPU/GPU/MB/480mm rad loop with awesome temps). Runs cool to warm. I run this on my 280/Signature V2 loop and it flows plenty.
> 18W DDC - this is where it's no fun for the silent runners. Whiny at full speed, but incredible flow and pressure. It also runs quite warm at full speed, so a heatsink mount or at least adequate airflow is probably best for long life.
> 
> The only times I've ever had a DDC failure was my own fault. Burned one up when my loop clogged.


The original D5 Vario aka fishpond pump is indeed whiny. The trick is to have two and you can offset them to cancel out the noise, just like a pair of the noise cancelling headphones. Back in those days, I used Ehiem pumps. My lazy persons guide to DDCs is I dont buy them. Bad luck on my end. Yes a pair of them at full speed are "adequate" Im not the adequate type. They put a pair of old swiftech vario to shame on whiny and they will cook without added heatsinks.

A nice pair of PWM D5s will last forever. Ive had two D5 failures, both swiftech crap and both at the same time. They wouldnt cover them under warranty and swore I ran them dry which that will onl kill one if you do it too long. its a magnetic impeller on a ceramic ball. I have 3 of them in my case and cant hear anything from them unless they are at full tilt and only then if I was running silent and cranked them up. ATNM have 3 of them running, 100%, 90% and 85% and dont hear them over my rad fans at 800 rpms. 

More to come on flowrates and cooling. Ive got plenty of restriction and control in my loop and have been requested by a hardware rep to add that aspect particularly. Hardest part is going to get the lowest down to 100L/Hr. Its going to take a single pump dialed back as far as it will go on PWM and the other two disconnected. 

Most people run DDCs for space reduction. If you want a pair of them Ill dig them up out of my box of shame (along with the high $$ custom tops and isolation mounts that still wouldnt kill the whine in the basement but I don't know you well enough to hate you that much. Was gonna send them to Texas....J/K Thrash.

Stay tuned to the EK Magnitude thread over the next week or two. Im expecting a visit from DHL yellow truck on Monday and thrash and I are gonna duke it out to see which of the two top contenders does the best on a 9940X in their respective environments. He has less rad space than me and I have better ambients so its just multiple takes on the same two different blocks , on the same chip under two different builds. More field trials than ""Pro reviewers" that did a lame job callling a #1 over 0.10C difference with AIDA64 CPU only that wont even stress my Iphone. Ive already got a jump on the Optimus as its mount is as good as its going to get, never got the chance to check out the "springless" mount other than the springed mount less the springs. They were promised and never showed. Either way They will both get the crap pushed out of them then after the requested set point runs Im gonna do an auto run on my rig and see if I can top my OC on the Sig V2 with the magnitude. May the best block win or even two that are too close to call as in 0.10C difference. My dog can fart during a bench run and cause that error. Either way I think they will both show to be top contenders.


----------



## JustinThyme

qes27 said:


> How many more weeks, couple more still, more than a month?


Im with you there on the word "SOON" I heard that one from EK and HK on the block for the 2080Ti Strix O11G. December turned to Jan, then to Feb then to march and If my failing memory recalls they both hit the market around April. 

Either way I like the competition getting sparked up again!. So long as the manufacturer doesn't start with a "B" (more than one) from the PROC. This "B"urr on a "B" block left me "B"leeding like a stuck pig" And who in their right mind makes a "B"lock where the Nvlink "B"ridge wont go on? One memory chip that made decent impression....scratches under the acrylic....and this crappy of an impression on primary VRMS and none on secondaary even with pads stacked two deep? The only thing that made decent contact was the GPU chip itself. These went back so fast they never saw water in them.In the end two blocks that were warped.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> Like I said firs thing it to can the equation P95=how to make PC into space heater.
> There are a few chillers on the market but bot are they proud of them. Ive been consider one made for a laser device thats 1500Watts and 1/3 the price of a koolance 800W. Thing with those is though its either an alternative that you dont get carried away with or you have to deal with condensation that will blow a MOBO and maybe the CPU is you arent careful. Id just like one to run just above the dew point.
> 
> Alot of those sub 60 temps is what you call PC on the balcony during a Canadian winter. The really crazy ones go much lower. Phase change cases have been around for a long time but again, those go sub zero so a lot of prep work to keep things from cooking.
> 
> Big thing is a workload that will push the thermal limits near 80C IMO. When I see the so called pro bench marks with 30s and 40s I laugh as I know its a stock running rig with a small load which equates t....who friggen cares!
> 
> 
> 
> P95 is antiquated and just generates heat. AIDA64 is weak at CPU only but better if you add the FPU check box as well as cache and is OK for memory stability but there are better ones out there. No need to stress drives and 3D marks is far better at stressing GPUs
> 
> Yeah two fives or 5 2s with 6 bags are also are awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> The original D5 Vario aka fishpond pump is indeed whiny. The trick is to have two and you can offset them to cancel out the noise, just like a pair of the noise cancelling headphones. Back in those days, I used Ehiem pumps. My lazy persons guide to DDCs is I dont buy them. Bad luck on my end. Yes a pair of them at full speed are "adequate" Im not the adequate type. They put a pair of old swiftech vario to shame on whiny and they will cook without added heatsinks.
> 
> A nice pair of PWM D5s will last forever. Ive had two D5 failures, both swiftech crap and both at the same time. They wouldnt cover them under warranty and swore I ran them dry which that will onl kill one if you do it too long. its a magnetic impeller on a ceramic ball. I have 3 of them in my case and cant hear anything from them unless they are at full tilt and only then if I was running silent and cranked them up. ATNM have 3 of them running, 100%, 90% and 85% and dont hear them over my rad fans at 800 rpms.
> 
> More to come on flowrates and cooling. Ive got plenty of restriction and control in my loop and have been requested by a hardware rep to add that aspect particularly. Hardest part is going to get the lowest down to 100L/Hr. Its going to take a single pump dialed back as far as it will go on PWM and the other two disconnected.
> 
> *Most people run DDCs for space reduction.* If you want a pair of them Ill dig them up out of my box of shame (along with the high $$ custom tops and isolation mounts that still wouldnt kill the whine in the basement but I don't know you well enough to hate you that much. Was gonna send them to Texas....J/K Thrash.
> 
> Stay tuned to the EK Magnitude thread over the next week or two. Im expecting a visit from DHL yellow truck on Monday and thrash and I are gonna duke it out to see which of the two top contenders does the best on a 9940X in their respective environments. He has less rad space than me and I have better ambients so its just multiple takes on the same two different blocks , on the same chip under two different builds. More field trials than ""Pro reviewers" that did a lame job callling a #1 over 0.10C difference with AIDA64 CPU only that wont even stress my Iphone. Ive already got a jump on the Optimus as its mount is as good as its going to get, never got the chance to check out the "springless" mount other than the springed mount less the springs. They were promised and never showed. Either way They will both get the crap pushed out of them then after the requested set point runs Im gonna do an auto run on my rig and see if I can top my OC on the Sig V2 with the magnitude. May the best block win or even two that are too close to call as in 0.10C difference. My dog can fart during a bench run and cause that error. Either way I think they will both show to be top contenders.


have 2 of this for my d5 "small" needs never failed me...
Thats what im using on my TT VT 20 it fits right in a corner between the wall case and the motherboard its like a perfect fit

Btw, blender its not 100% to qualify as stable a stable overclock may fail in rog bench XD. Blender it is good for testing realistic heat heavy workloads and a offset avx divider you need to mix them with rog bench.. rog bench switch the frequency all the time thats where you hit stability problems just to note it here...

btw i would take with a grain of salt the next upcoming results thats how it is XD


----------



## Ashcroft

Its like this video was made for this thread.








People always think they can do better than "Pro reviewers", until they actually try.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

thats a nice video the problem with the dummy heater is it would not put the heat output of a cpu that throws 400-500w+ even more out of the socket. the actual watts you need to cool..

you can have a lot of variances ambient/vrm efficiency airflow in your case etc... the difference starts with high wattage this hcc cpus do not even TR3 output that much heat.. in those tests...
thats when you see when the waterblock really shines and that temperature curve goes ballistic..

heres anandtech on that https://www.anandtech.com/show/1504...60x-and-3970x-review-24-and-32-cores-on-7nm/2

but you also see there a 9980xe there outputting 190w... almost the same as the 9900k

thats easy coolable

The more watts the more difficult to control and cool...


heres a black ice gtx 360 review
https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/06/03/black-ice-gtx/4/
delta t of 10c cooling ability 500w that dont mean you will get good temps out of it of a single one tho XD


----------



## Jpmboy

Ashcroft said:


> Its like this video was made for this thread.
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmTOJP4KOyk
> 
> 
> People always think they can do better than "Pro reviewers", until they actually try.


I think you mean until the "Pros" actually try to do it right... which Steph is trying to do. He should break out the torque driver and pressure indicating film (fujifilm - very expensive) soon. I've posted in this forum using PI film. Good to see that the difference between flux at thermodynamic equilibrium and flux at base line got an honorable mention in there. :thumb:


----------



## JustinThyme

I wonder how much thermal impact the blue painters tape had?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah GN is okay unfortunately there's not one relevant cooler that applies to this thread :doh:

TPU if they hadn't done such a poor job we wouldn't likely be having this discussion more than likely 
00.10 is a pathetic assessment of any water block and so is average temps instead of sharing all the max/ min temps involved and let us see everything not just what they wanted to show
He criticized a lot people using optimus blocks for seeing what they wanted to see seems he did as well so pot kettle :applaud:


----------



## cdoublejj

so one person told me the barrow or bykski am4 blocks tested about 6c warmer than the Optimus. i figured that made sense as the optimus has way finer fins? but, i cheaped out and got a bykski block for my rtx 2070 figured it'd be better than the stock air cooler and formulamod radiators


----------



## sakete

@Optimus WC Do you also sell a separate pump+top combo? I'm looking at a dual pump setup and don't need a second reservoir.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah GN is okay unfortunately there's not one relevant cooler that applies to this thread :doh:
> 
> TPU if they hadn't done such a poor job we wouldn't likely be having this discussion more than likely
> 00.10 is a pathetic assessment of any water block and so is average temps instead of sharing all the max/ min temps involved and let us see everything not just what they wanted to show
> He criticized a lot people using optimus blocks for seeing what they wanted to see seems he did as well so pot kettle :applaud:


Well, you and I will get to present the difference from an enthusiasts perspective which is what most people who are shelling out this kind of $$ really want to know. Not a narrative with a lower power draw CPU at stock settings running weak stress tests that won’t peg out the average smart phone with passive cooling. 

See what you got me into!


----------



## sultanofswing

Question for Optimus, I assume your 2080ti blocks that you are working on are for the Founders PCB. 
Do you guys have any future plans to support a card like the Kingpin? I assume though by that time 3080 will be out but I personally always buy Kingpin Cards and it would be nice to have an option for that card or the future Kingpin cards (if they make them anymore).


----------



## JustinThyme

sultanofswing said:


> Question for Optimus, I assume your 2080ti blocks that you are working on are for the Founders PCB.
> Do you guys have any future plans to support a card like the Kingpin? I assume though by that time 3080 will be out but I personally always buy Kingpin Cards and it would be nice to have an option for that card or the future Kingpin cards (if they make them anymore).


Last I heard all they are doing is reference and Titan. No one does Kingpins as they are just off the wall with the board layout and not much of a market.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> Last I heard all they are doing is reference and Titan. No one does Kingpins as they are just off the wall with the board layout and not much of a market.




They have plans for a Kingpin/ FTW3 block. Those have been the most requested blocks so there are plans for them. When only Optimus knows


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> They have plans for a Kingpin/ FTW3 block. Those have been the most requested blocks so there are plans for them. When only Optimus knows


Totally. Optimus has big product lineup plans but who knows when it comes out. We can only be patient at this point. I just take it at good time to bunker down and save money for Optimus, Next GPU and big rig for Intel 7nm/Amd 5nm. Resist the urge to do any other projects during this time period. 

I was looking at AMD Ryzen 4800u and 4900u Laptops for my wife and so far the prices are far beyond the range i'm prepared to pay for an laptop. I try to avoid laptops that are 1,500cad plus because the technology gets out of date too fast and i only get when I am actually travelling. Just too busy with other things going on in life. Also we won't be travelling much (though have to go back to asia in 2021) but its looking like airline tickets are going to be difficult to get in the future/really pricey.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> They have plans for a Kingpin/ FTW3 block. Those have been the most requested blocks so there are plans for them. When only Optimus knows


They have yet to produce a founders.


Like 3 people have kingpins and 4 have FTW3 
No one else does kingpins and those that bothered with FTW3 that was the last block they made. 

My suggestion is hold your breath and see which happens first. As of this minute there is the foundation and Sig V2 with 11XX 2066 and AM4. The next two promised are TR4 and GPU for reference and Titan that have been in preorder status for more than a month. 

I’m still waiting on a set of springless mounting screws. About to go to local machinist and have them made myself. Patience is wearing thin as will yours waiting for any GPU block other than reference or Titan. Maybe fall of 2022 after the 4080Ti is released. 

Next post will be

“Sorry for the delay, all hands are on deck getting back orders out” been the same for a month, don’t see it changing anytime soon. Came out like a meteor and fizzled into a wet fuse.

I was looking forward to a US company in the competition but they won’t last another 5 mins like this.

This coming from someone running a Sig V2 but that may change.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> They have yet to produce a founders.
> 
> 
> Like 3 people have kingpins and 4 have FTW3
> No one else does kingpins and those that bothered with FTW3 that was the last block they made.
> 
> My suggestion is hold your breath and see which happens first. As of this minute there is the foundation and Sig V2 with 11XX 2066 and AM4. The next two promised are TR4 and GPU for reference and Titan that have been in preorder status for more than a month.
> 
> I’m still waiting on a set of springless mounting screws. About to go to local machinist and have them made myself. Patience is wearing thin as will yours waiting for any GPU block other than reference or Titan. Maybe fall of 2022 after the 4080Ti is released.
> 
> Next post will be
> 
> “Sorry for the delay, all hands are on deck getting back orders out” been the same for a month, don’t see it changing anytime soon. Came out like a meteor and fizzled into a wet fuse.
> 
> I was looking forward to a US company in the competition but they won’t last another 5 mins like this.
> 
> This coming from someone running a Sig V2 but that may change.


It's going to tough times for pc water companies if the current world economy trends continues. I am actually glad, that heatkiller did the wise thing and is working on automotive water cooling solution atm. B2B side is always more reliable than relying on the consumer side. That way heatkiller will continue to stay in business.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah just use the optimus support email it will get done 
I got my goodies Saturday finally sigV2 springless mount/ new copper cold plate/ o-rings for both.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah just use the optimus support email it will get done
> I got my goodies Saturday finally sigV2 springless mount/ new copper cold plate/ o-rings for both.


They must like you better than me 
I got nothing.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Just have to maybe remind support about it after a week but you are sort of moody


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Just have to maybe remind support about it after a week but you are sort of moody


Only moody with you!  

I was actually very nice and my last statement is probably why I haven’t seen anything. “take your time, no rush”. ????


----------



## skupples

JustinThyme said:


> They have yet to produce a founders.
> 
> 
> Like 3 people have kingpins and 4 have FTW3
> No one else does kingpins and those that bothered with FTW3 that was the last block they made.
> 
> My suggestion is hold your breath and see which happens first. As of this minute there is the foundation and Sig V2 with 11XX 2066 and AM4. The next two promised are TR4 and GPU for reference and Titan that have been in preorder status for more than a month.
> 
> I’m still waiting on a set of springless mounting screws. About to go to local machinist and have them made myself. Patience is wearing thin as will yours waiting for any GPU block other than reference or Titan. Maybe fall of 2022 after the 4080Ti is released.
> 
> Next post will be
> 
> “Sorry for the delay, all hands are on deck getting back orders out” been the same for a month, don’t see it changing anytime soon. Came out like a meteor and fizzled into a wet fuse.
> 
> I was looking forward to a US company in the competition but they won’t last another 5 mins like this.
> 
> This coming from someone running a Sig V2 but that may change.


and the pre-order went up for the gpu block like 6 months ago.


ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Just have to maybe remind support about it after a week but you are sort of moody


get off his lawn!


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> get off his lawn!


LMAO

@ThrashZone I can send my 20YO daughter to Texas A&M or whatever is closer to you and you can deal with that! LOL When she starts growling I just throw copious amounts of chocolate at her and run! Between that and an 18 YO Son that knows everything........I reserve the right to be moody!
First boy that pulled up in my driveway honking the horn got schooled quick. No one comes to pick up my daughter by honking the horn, you get your a$$ out of the car and come to the door. With the look of fear in his eyes he obliged. When he entered the front door I tossed him a 12 gauge shell. Hes like whats this for? I said you see that Browning over there in the corner? It will come out the barrel of that a lot faster if my daughter isnt home before midnight and yes i will be waiting. She was home at 11:30 and I never saw him again.


----------



## oreonutz

JustinThyme said:


> LMAO
> 
> @ThrashZone I can send my 20YO daughter to Texas A&M or whatever is closer to you and you can deal with that! LOL When she starts growling I just throw copious amounts of chocolate at her and run! Between that and an 18 YO Son that knows everything........I reserve the right to be moody!
> First boy that pulled up in my driveway honking the horn got schooled quick. No one comes to pick up my daughter by honking the horn, you get your a$$ out of the car and come to the door. With the look of fear in his eyes he obliged. When he entered the front door I tossed him a 12 gauge shell. Hes like whats this for? I said you see that Browning over there in the corner? It will come out the barrel of that a lot faster if my daughter isnt home before midnight and yes i will be waiting. She was home at 11:30 and I never saw him again.


Jesus Christ man. I bet your daughter loves you! Not that I don't respect it, I do, but that scares away the good ones as much as it scares away the bad. Although, he had it coming the moment he honked so, Good Riddance.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

JustinThyme said:


> Last I heard all they are doing is reference and Titan. No one does Kingpins as they are just off the wall with the board layout and not much of a market.


Optimus has mentioned several times in this thread that they plan on making a Kingpin 2080 Ti block. Also, Bykski released theirs last year (I am using it in my gaming-only rig).


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Chocolate works on any woman until you say anything about fat then all bets are off :lachen:


----------



## sakete

So what do you all think will happen to Optimus if a recession were to hit this year, which is now looking more and more likely? They're a startup company apparently struggling to keep up with demand, not able to quickly enough churn out new products the market is asking for (ie GPU blocks). For now, from their point of view, it's not the worst position to be in, but it can eventually turn people off to the brand and they might start shopping at competitors.

If a recession were to hit, demand will probably drop significantly, even from enthusiasts. It seems like some other brands, such as Watercool and Aquacomputer, are a bit more diversified in their offerings where I suspect they might be able to endure a recession more easily. Optimus, I don't know what the rest of their business looks like. They claim decades of experience, spun off from existing engineering business? Optimus still attached to that? Or wholly independent where if suddenly the economics no longer make sense they'll close shop?

All speculation on my part, but thoughts from others on this?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Probably starve to death first the way people are hording food..... like there's a nuke coming


----------



## Jpmboy

sakete said:


> So what do you all think will happen to Optimus if a recession were to hit this year, which is now looking more and more likely? They're a startup company apparently struggling to keep up with demand, not able to quickly enough churn out new products the market is asking for (ie GPU blocks). For now, from their point of view, it's not the worst position to be in, but it can eventually turn people off to the brand and they might start shopping at competitors.
> 
> If a recession were to hit, demand will probably drop significantly, even from enthusiasts. It seems like some other brands, such as Watercool and Aquacomputer, are a bit more diversified in their offerings where I suspect they might be able to endure a recession more easily. Optimus, I don't know what the rest of their business looks like. They claim decades of experience, spun off from existing engineering business? Optimus still attached to that? Or wholly independent where if suddenly the economics no longer make sense they'll close shop?
> 
> *All speculation on my part, but thoughts from others on this*?


Yeah, it is.


----------



## criskoe

sakete said:


> So what do you all think will happen to Optimus if a recession were to hit this year, which is now looking more and more likely? They're a startup company apparently struggling to keep up with demand, not able to quickly enough churn out new products the market is asking for (ie GPU blocks). For now, from their point of view, it's not the worst position to be in, but it can eventually turn people off to the brand and they might start shopping at competitors.
> 
> If a recession were to hit, demand will probably drop significantly, even from enthusiasts. It seems like some other brands, such as Watercool and Aquacomputer, are a bit more diversified in their offerings where I suspect they might be able to endure a recession more easily. Optimus, I don't know what the rest of their business looks like. They claim decades of experience, spun off from existing engineering business? Optimus still attached to that? Or wholly independent where if suddenly the economics no longer make sense they'll close shop?
> 
> All speculation on my part, but thoughts from others on this?


Not gunna lie. My initial feeling when I saw “10 year warranty” the first thought that came to mind was “wow that’s awesome” but quickly followed by “warranties only good if the business is still around”. 

It would be interesting to know how back logged with orders are they. Like really how much “demand” is there. Cause beyond people in the know and enthusiasts like you guys. The avg hobbies and newcomer will not know they even exist. Especially with mainstream brands pushing into the scene. I personally just found out about them 2 weeks ago through here. 

And that brings me to my other thought. As more people it seems are taking the plunge into watercooling, I wonder how many newcomers will continue after their first go. Like percentage wise.


----------



## Shawnb99

criskoe said:


> Not gunna lie. My initial feeling when I saw “10 year warranty” the first thought that came to mind was “wow that’s awesome” but quickly followed by “warranties only good if the business is still around”.


So true. I bought a product before, was so excited to get a "lifetime" warranty for it only for the company to close down 2 years later.


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> So true. I bought a product before, was so excited to get a "lifetime" warranty for it only for the company to close down 2 years later.


Hi,
Only maybe comparable cpu.. water blocks are not on your list of options though and actually cost more


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> So what do you all think will happen to Optimus if a recession were to hit this year, which is now looking more and more likely? They're a startup company apparently struggling to keep up with demand, not able to quickly enough churn out new products the market is asking for (ie GPU blocks). For now, from their point of view, it's not the worst position to be in, but it can eventually turn people off to the brand and they might start shopping at competitors.
> 
> If a recession were to hit, demand will probably drop significantly, even from enthusiasts. It seems like some other brands, such as Watercool and Aquacomputer, are a bit more diversified in their offerings where I suspect they might be able to endure a recession more easily. Optimus, I don't know what the rest of their business looks like. They claim decades of experience, spun off from existing engineering business? Optimus still attached to that? Or wholly independent where if suddenly the economics no longer make sense they'll close shop?
> 
> All speculation on my part, but thoughts from others on this?


That’s something we will find out. It sounds like optimus is side venture of an bigger company that does other manufacturering hence why they have the equipment. Similar to how caselabs was small side arm of server case manufacturing for government and big businesses.

If there’s an recession your going to be more worried on your own side than an small company.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> criskoe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not gunna lie. My initial feeling when I saw â€œ10 year warrantyâ€ÂÂ the first thought that came to mind was â€œwow thatâ€™️s awesomeâ€ÂÂ but quickly followed by â€œwarranties only good if the business is still aroundâ€ÂÂ.
> 
> 
> 
> So true. I bought a product before, was so excited to get a "lifetime" warranty for it only for the company to close down 2 years later.
Click to expand...

You mean caselabs? The issue ultimately started with the parent company i feel. If they had large clients defaulting on payments, thats the unexpected part. They also overextended there credit lines for expansion and many businesses take that risk. The company just increases the risk if something happens, you will likely go bankrupt. 

Caselabs was damn slow but it wasn’t main income earner of the whole business. Even if caselabs was quicker,etc it would not have saved the company.


----------



## criskoe

I’ve owned many lifetime warranty items in my life and truth be told is I’ve never taken advantage of a super late warranty replacement.. Example. When evga cards used to be lifetime. I found that I usually replaced said item and either got rid of it or it became inferior anyways and was replaced by something better. Or other hand item broke and I was like what ever I want something new and didn’t even bother. 

In this situation. How many of you guys think you’ll be running any block for that long. Let alone even half that time. Something tells me most of you will have something else next year. Lol.


----------



## sakete

criskoe said:


> Not gunna lie. My initial feeling when I saw “10 year warranty” the first thought that came to mind was “wow that’s awesome” but quickly followed by “warranties only good if the business is still around”.
> 
> It would be interesting to know how back logged with orders are they. Like really how much “demand” is there. Cause beyond people in the know and enthusiasts like you guys. The avg hobbies and newcomer will not know they even exist. Especially with mainstream brands pushing into the scene. I personally just found out about them 2 weeks ago through here.
> 
> And that brings me to my other thought. As more people it seems are taking the plunge into watercooling, I wonder how many newcomers will continue after their first go. Like percentage wise.


Yeah, I too wonder how many of the newcomers to watercooling (myself included) would do it all again after their first time around. Air-cooling for the vast majority of PC builders and gamers is more than good enough, and it's very low maintenance and low hassle (not to mention WAAAAAAAAY cheaper).


----------



## sakete

criskoe said:


> I’ve owned many lifetime warranty items in my life and truth be told is I’ve never taken advantage of a super late warranty replacement.. Example. When evga cards used to be lifetime. I found that I usually replaced said item and either got rid of it or it became inferior anyways and was replaced by something better. Or other hand item broke and I was like what ever I want something new and didn’t even bother.
> 
> In this situation. How many of you guys think you’ll be running any block for that long. Let alone even half that time. Something tells me most of you will have something else next year. Lol.


Not only that, even if you kept it for five years, by that time new chips might have come out and new motherboards with new sockets, or new GPUs, so you might just decide to upgrade your hardware and you'll need a new block anyway. I agree that I don't typically claim warranty if it's more than a few years old.

For example, recently my PSU died. 5 years old with 7 year warranty. I bought a new Seasonic PSU instead (for one because I needed a new one immediately, warranty claims can take a while). Not even sure yet I'll claim warranty on the dead PSU (though I might and re-use it in a server build in my basement).


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> That’s something we will find out. It sounds like optimus is side venture of an bigger company that does other manufacturering hence why they have the equipment. Similar to how caselabs was small side arm of server case manufacturing for government and big businesses.
> 
> If there’s an recession your going to be more worried on your own side than an small company.


Definitely, if there's a recession I'll be watching my own spending more than worrying about a company going belly-up. But, I'd also be hesitant to buy from a new small company with not a ton of history yet, as what if what I bought has a defect or fails within a year, and the company is gone. Then I'm stuck having to spend money again.

So it would be good to know how much financial clout Optimus really has, but alas, they're not a public company so we'll never really know. And we don't know to which bigger company they belong.


----------



## Papazmurf

sakete said:


> Yeah, I too wonder how many of the newcomers to watercooling (myself included) would do it all again after their first time around. Air-cooling for the vast majority of PC builders and gamers is more than good enough, and it's very low maintenance and low hassle (not to mention WAAAAAAAAY cheaper).


Water cooling is a hassle, but if you're serious about overclocking I don't see how you can go without it. I think the answer to your question resides around the percentage of people that are OK with "good enough" versus those that was want the best possible performance (within reason, I don't count LN2 and phase change options as long term solutions).

Also a lot of this is just the hobby. I think for a lot of folks, the building part of the PC can be more fun and exciting than whatever the intended use.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> Definitely, if there's a recession I'll be watching my own spending more than worrying about a company going belly-up. But, I'd also be hesitant to buy from a new small company with not a ton of history yet, as *what if what I bought has a defect or fails within a year*, and the company is gone. Then I'm stuck having to spend money again.
> 
> So it would be good to know how much financial clout Optimus really has, but alas, they're not a public company so we'll never really know. And we don't know to which bigger company they belong.


Hi,
What can fail a D5 pump from them is about the only item that I can think of 

Base & reservoir not sure what can fail there o-rings ?
Cpu or gpu blocks about the same o-rings fail maybe from breaking down periodically which the sigV2 looks like the toughest to get it's o-rings out without dental tools which I have a couple pointed ones 

Otherwise not sure besides that can either be defective or fail.

Large companies deny rma all the time look at asus lol worst customer support ever even evga will reject for a scratch


----------



## Section31

Papazmurf said:


> Water cooling is a hassle, but if you're serious about overclocking I don't see how you can go without it. I think the answer to your question resides around the percentage of people that are OK with "good enough" versus those that was want the best possible performance (within reason, I don't count LN2 and phase change options as long term solutions).
> 
> Also a lot of this is just the hobby. I think for a lot of folks, the building part of the PC can be more fun and exciting than whatever the intended use.


Yeah it is a hobby. One of the many black hole hobbies.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Definitely, if there's a recession I'll be watching my own spending more than worrying about a company going belly-up. But, I'd also be hesitant to buy from a new small company with not a ton of history yet, as what if what I bought has a defect or fails within a year, and the company is gone. Then I'm stuck having to spend money again.
> 
> So it would be good to know how much financial clout Optimus really has, but alas, they're not a public company so we'll never really know. And we don't know to which bigger company they belong.


Lol. Public companies can go under just as fast. I call them about even because public companies have tendency to play with earnings,etc. Then they bribe the big four/five accounting firms to approve there reports through giving them consultation business (that's more profitable than actually doing audits, etc- profit margins from that are damn small unless you pay your staff peanuts). That's why even as accountant, I don't trust the big accounting firms at all. I really wouldn't put much faith in the financial health, more about how much do you trust the people in charge of the company and how they plan to achieve the company's growth plans.

I suspect Tesla is playing with earnings myself as it happened to my parents and others too apparently, basically they put down an order for a Model 3 in HK. Long story but the VW Phaeton was on its last leg and we needed to replace it asap and the best deal out there was the Tesla because electric vehicles got an extra tax savings of like 200,000 HKD if you literally scrapped your existing car. It was the cheapest brand new car replacement (descent) out there at 400,000ish HKD. Put this into perspective, an entry level Japanese car is easily 300,000HKD and German/European cars range from around 500,000 to 1,000,000 HKD Plus. Otherwise we wouldn't buy an Tesla. It was near the end of the 3rd quarter. They were charged twice and when we asked the dealer to cancel the charge, they investigated and said it was from Tesla Head Office US and that it would take a month to cancel the charge. We ended up getting the credit card company to block the charge. I normally wouldn't be suspicious if the error was on the HK dealer side but its from Tesla Head Office in the US.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> Lol. Public companies can go under just as fast. I call them about even because public companies have tendency to play with earnings,etc. Then they bribe the big four/five accounting firms to approve there reports through giving them consultation business (that's more profitable than actually doing audits, etc- profit margins from that are damn small unless you pay your staff peanuts). That's why even as accountant, I don't trust the big accounting firms at all. I really wouldn't put much faith in the financial health, more about how much do you trust the people in charge of the company and how they plan to achieve the company's growth plans.
> 
> I suspect Tesla is playing with earnings myself as it happened to my parents and others too apparently, basically they put down an order for a Model 3 in HK. Long story but the VW Phaeton was on its last leg and we needed to replace it asap and the best deal out there was the Tesla because electric vehicles got an extra tax savings of like 200,000 HKD if you literally scrapped your existing car. It was the cheapest brand new car replacement (descent) out there at 400,000ish HKD. Put this into perspective, an entry level Japanese car is easily 300,000HKD and German/European cars range from around 500,000 to 1,000,000 HKD Plus. Otherwise we wouldn't buy an Tesla. It was near the end of the 3rd quarter. They were charged twice and when we asked the dealer to cancel the charge, they investigated and said it was from Tesla Head Office US and that it would take a month to cancel the charge. We ended up getting the credit card company to block the charge. I normally wouldn't be suspicious if the error was on the HK dealer side but its from Tesla Head Office in the US.


Yes they can, but you can at least look at their financials (balance sheet, earnings, cashflow, etc.) and make a guess at their financial health. In my professional life I work in Corporate Finance so I'm pretty familiar with looking at such things. You can't make these guesses with private companies.

RE: Tesla, whether they're playing with earnings or not, I think they're vastly overvalued. They're valued as a tech company, when really they're just a glorified car manufacturer, and their valuation should be closer to that.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Yes they can, but you can at least look at their financials (balance sheet, earnings, cashflow, etc.) and make a guess at their financial health. In my professional life I work in Corporate Finance so I'm pretty familiar with looking at such things. You can't make these guesses with private companies.
> 
> RE: Tesla, whether they're playing with earnings or not, I think they're vastly overvalued. They're valued as a tech company, when really they're just a glorified car manufacturer, and their valuation should be closer to that.


I see. The good thing is your earnings are more than enough to fund the black hole of water cooling PC rigs.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> I see. The good thing is your earnings are more than enough to fund the black hole of water cooling PC rigs.


Well, I have 3 blackhole hobbies:
- PC building
- Photography
- Audio (i.e. I'm an audiophile)

So between those three, it's a huge black hole


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Well, I have 3 blackhole hobbies:
> - PC building
> - Photography
> - Audio (i.e. I'm an audiophile)
> 
> So between those three, it's a huge black hole


Those three are bad for sure.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Well watercooling gear last longer than the current hardware itself. Theres blocks that are a almost a decade old performing as the new ones coming out.. Ddc/d5 rads etc... Only difference now is aesthetics with a perf loss in between.. Seen rigs worth alot in wc gear with fancy distro plates and crap and they do not perform at all.. Having the v2 in my hands looking at the build quality on it i wouldnt worry too much in the long run. This is a well builded block that was made to last and it performs as well. It do good in small chips as well big chips.


----------



## JustinThyme

Kalm_Traveler said:


> Optimus has mentioned several times in this thread that they plan on making a Kingpin 2080 Ti block. Also, Bykski released theirs last year (I am using it in my gaming-only rig).


They have mentioned a lot of things. Other than what’s already there NONE of it has materialized. Not even a single shipped GPU block. Just pictures and excuses. 

So the two blocks with intel or AMD mount......
Some reservoirs, done.


----------



## jvillaveces

I make it a point never to pre-order stuff. If vendors need financing, they can go to the bank or their shareholders, I am not in the business of funding other people's product development.


----------



## sakete

jvillaveces said:


> I make it a point never to pre-order stuff. If vendors need financing, they can go to the bank or their shareholders, I am not in the business of funding other people's product development.


Completely agree. I never pre-order stuff either. Not games, not hardware. I'll buy it when it's available and it gets good reviews.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

JustinThyme said:


> They have mentioned a lot of things. Other than what’s already there NONE of it has materialized. Not even a single shipped GPU block. Just pictures and excuses.
> 
> So the two blocks with intel or AMD mount......
> Some reservoirs, done.


good point 

I just wanted to share that Kingpin owners do at least have the option of picking up a Bykski block today.

It seems like a very odd design to me, cooling only the MOSFETs and not the chokes at all. Also, GPU temps are identical to when I had a ghetto setup with EK Supremacy VGA block installed.


----------



## sakete

JustinThyme said:


> They have mentioned a lot of things. Other than what’s already there NONE of it has materialized. Not even a single shipped GPU block. Just pictures and excuses.
> 
> 
> 
> So the two blocks with intel or AMD mount......
> 
> Some reservoirs, done.


I'm thinking at this point I'll just get their AM4 block and call it a day. I was debating their res, but it just seems overpriced and there doesn't even appear to be a straightforward way to bottom mount it to a 120mm fan/rad. Will probably get Aqualis res + D5 next pump. Glass will do just fine 

Was also debating their fittings and again the marketing seems great. But perhaps better to just go with a proven brand like Bitspower for those. I'll let others do the beta testing


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Probably starve to death first the way people are hording food..... like there's a nuke coming


weird how that's regional. its normal as ever here in Manatee county, even though we have confirmed cases. 

(n lets be real. it's been rampant for a month now. many people have already experienced it, n just thought it was a weird one this year)


----------



## Wizzzard

Will an Ek-D5 PWM Pump/Res combo be enough pressure for a Signature V2 + GPU + 360 rad + 360 rad?


----------



## Keith Myers

Shawnb99 said:


> So true. I bought a product before, was so excited to get a "lifetime" warranty for it only for the company to close down 2 years later.


Just an anecdotal story. I bought a really high-end telescope mount for a lot of money. Great support from the manufacturer for many years. But the recession hit and they closed up shop because there wasn't enough new orders coming in. Lasted a few more months doing upgrades on older mounts to bring them up to the current production level. You heard nary a word of dissatisfaction from any owner. Only praise. The mount was built like a tank and meant to last for the lifetime of the owner. The current owners support each other with knowledge and skills and ways to get simple repairs done. But the basic mount just doesn't need to be fixed. The mount continues to hold its value and rarely comes up for sale because it is such a good product that nothing much exceeds it in the marketplace.

Even if Optimus Cooling were to fold, the products would hold their inherent value and still be desired for the future I suspect.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> I'm thinking at this point I'll just get their AM4 block and call it a day. I was debating their res, but it just seems overpriced and there doesn't even appear to be a straightforward way to bottom mount it to a 120mm fan/rad. Will probably get Aqualis res + D5 next pump. Glass will do just fine
> 
> Was also debating their fittings and again the marketing seems great. But perhaps better to just go with a proven brand like Bitspower for those. I'll let others do the beta testing


I find BP fittings quality control has gone down and I rather get barrows at this point. Also, the hard tube fittings are not good imo though the cheaper premium ones (aluminum knob) worked out much better for me. I don't mind giving away my BP fittings in the future once optimus comes out.


----------



## Keith Myers

sakete said:


> Well, I have 3 blackhole hobbies:
> - PC building
> - Astro-Photography
> - Audio (i.e. I'm an audiophile)
> 
> So between those three, it's a huge black hole


+1


----------



## sultanofswing

Kalm_Traveler said:


> good point
> 
> I just wanted to share that Kingpin owners do at least have the option of picking up a Bykski block today.
> 
> It seems like a very odd design to me, cooling only the MOSFETs and not the chokes at all. Also, GPU temps are identical to when I had a ghetto setup with EK Supremacy VGA block installed.


I have the Bykski Block currently on my Kingpin, Temps on stock voltage never go over 38c with it.
Now If I start cranking the voltage to 1.2 then it will get to 43c.

I'd say for the 129 bucks the block is well worth it.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> I find BP fittings quality control has gone down and I rather get barrows at this point. Also, the hard tube fittings are not good imo though the cheaper premium ones (aluminum knob) worked out much better for me. I don't mind giving away my BP fittings in the future once optimus comes out.


Interesting. I'll be going full soft-tubing, just easier to work with so not concerned about hard tube fittings. With Optimus, there's a lot of highly optimistic marketing on their website promising us the world, but do you really buy into all that?


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> Interesting. I'll be going full soft-tubing, just easier to work with so not concerned about hard tube fittings. With Optimus, there's a lot of highly optimistic marketing on their website promising us the world, but do you really buy into all that?


Hi,
You'll have to find another manufacture that makes brass fittings and adds marine nickle on them and a aluminum cap to know if optimus is a value or not 
I'm going out on a limb here in saying nobody uses brass for fittings and none would probably tell you what they make them out of.

If you want to buy from Germany go for it.
There is an appetite for USA made water cooling products just have to be patient 
I'd love to see another dual D5 pump setup made besides ek's.


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> You'll have to find another manufacture that makes brass fittings and adds marine nickle on them and a aluminum cap to know if optimus is a value or not
> 
> I'm going out on a limb here in saying nobody uses brass for fittings and none would probably tell you what they make them out of.
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to buy from Germany go for it.
> 
> There is an appetite for USA made water cooling products just have to be patient
> 
> I'd love to see another dual D5 pump setup made besides ek's.


Last I heard, dual pump setup is maybe 6+ months out from Optimus. So maybe realistically at least 12 mths


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

sultanofswing said:


> I have the Bykski Block currently on my Kingpin, Temps on stock voltage never go over 38c with it.
> Now If I start cranking the voltage to 1.2 then it will get to 43c.
> 
> I'd say for the 129 bucks the block is well worth it.


What is your total loop setup? I haven't tested with all the sliders in the middle in MSI Afterburner, but on the OC BIOS and with power/temp/core voltage sliders max in my system it is idling about 32c in ~ 72 F ambient.

Max of 38c under full load seems unlikely unless you have much better cooling and colder ambient.


----------



## sultanofswing

Kalm_Traveler said:


> What is your total loop setup? I haven't tested with all the sliders in the middle in MSI Afterburner, but on the OC BIOS and with power/temp/core voltage sliders max in my system it is idling about 32c in ~ 72 F ambient.
> 
> Max of 38c under full load seems unlikely unless you have much better cooling and colder ambient.


I run a single loop consisting of 3 360mm radiators. Ambient temp fluctuates between 20-21c.

Idle temp sits around 26-27c for the most part.

Fans are Artic P12's and at 1400RPM they are pretty damn quiet.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Kalm_Traveler said:


> What is your total loop setup? I haven't tested with all the sliders in the middle in MSI Afterburner, but on the OC BIOS and with power/temp/core voltage sliders max in my system it is idling about 32c in ~ 72 F ambient.
> 
> Max of 38c under full load seems unlikely unless you have much better cooling and colder ambient.


Can confirm, watercooled 2080Tis are amazingly cool. 38 in a game thats not ridiculous seems about right. It depends on what monitors and specs you are running obviously. I peak out at around 46 with new games at close to max settings on a 3440x1440 120hz monitor.
Just be careful about byksky blocks as the galax one I got was incompatible with my GPU. BUT my gpu has 2 different PCB versions that are pretty different.


----------



## Section31

The bp soft tubing with mayhem i have found isnt 100% fit all the time and i prefer smooth grip over the rough bp one now. I have dry hands/ectzma so its easy to dry out my skin


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

sultanofswing said:


> I run a single loop consisting of 3 360mm radiators. Ambient temp fluctuates between 20-21c.
> 
> Idle temp sits around 26-27c for the most part.
> 
> Fans are Artic P12's and at 1400RPM they are pretty damn quiet.


ahh yeah so you have a very big loop (3x 360mm radiators), and ambient is quite a bit lower than mine here, also I take it you run the lowest TDP BIOS. Not much surprise there.




tatmMRKIV said:


> Can confirm, watercooled 2080Tis are amazingly cool. 38 in a game thats not ridiculous seems about right. It depends on what monitors and specs you are running obviously. I peak out at around 46 with new games at close to max settings on a 3440x1440 120hz monitor.
> Just be careful about byksky blocks as the galax one I got was incompatible with my GPU. BUT my gpu has 2 different PCB versions that are pretty different.


Yeah this Kingpin is the only 2080 Ti I have. I've run 3 Titan RTX's but I shunt mod them for higher TDP and I run everything for max performance. Right now ambient is pretty warm for some reason - temp sensor under the HEDT is showing 25.9 C, and the Titan RTX's are idling at 34 C according to MSI AB.

At full load (old screen was 3440 x 1440 100hz, new screen is 3840 x 1600 144hz) temps top out around 50-54c depending on ambient. It's usually 22.2 C until the PC heats up the room.


----------



## sultanofswing

Kalm_Traveler said:


> ahh yeah so you have a very big loop (3x 360mm radiators), and ambient is quite a bit lower than mine here, also I take it you run the lowest TDP BIOS. Not much surprise there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah this Kingpin is the only 2080 Ti I have. I've run 3 Titan RTX's but I shunt mod them for higher TDP and I run everything for max performance. Right now ambient is pretty warm for some reason - temp sensor under the HEDT is showing 25.9 C, and the Titan RTX's are idling at 34 C according to MSI AB.
> 
> At full load (old screen was 3440 x 1440 100hz, new screen is 3840 x 1600 144hz) temps top out around 50-54c depending on ambient. It's usually 22.2 C until the PC heats up the room.


For normal day to day use I use the stock bios and run +105 which puts me at 2160mhz which is still getting near 400w.


----------



## JustinThyme

Kalm_Traveler said:


> What is your total loop setup? I haven't tested with all the sliders in the middle in MSI Afterburner, but on the OC BIOS and with power/temp/core voltage sliders max in my system it is idling about 32c in ~ 72 F ambient.
> 
> Max of 38c under full load seems unlikely unless you have much better cooling and colder ambient.



Thats called MO-RA in the window or in front of AC or not much of an OC

I have a very good loop and with a pair of 2080Tis max loaded and trying 3 different blocks the HK is where I settled. I idle at 30C and top out at 40C 1.095 and 2150 is a solid number for me although I generally run it clocked back a little under that to 2080.

Thats rig in sig with 480XE, 360PE, HLlabs GTR 420 and HR labs GTS 360 22-24C ambient.


----------



## KedarWolf

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32920402748.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.66cb4c4dRYO0VO

Bykski CPU Water Block use for AMD RYZEN3000 AM3 AM3+ AM4 1950X TR4 X399 X570 Motherboard / 5V 3PIN RGB Light /Copper Radiator










Have that on my way for my 3950x, it covers all the chiplets on the CPU, I have a post where the measurements were done, it performs within a few degrees C of the Foundation and is less than 1/3 of the price.

Shipping is really slow though. 

I AM going to get the Foundation when I have the cash though, just something decent for now. It's really one of the best budget blocks for the AMD 3000 series.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

KedarWolf said:


> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32920402748.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.66cb4c4dRYO0VO
> 
> Bykski CPU Water Block use for AMD RYZEN3000 AM3 AM3+ AM4 1950X TR4 X399 X570 Motherboard / 5V 3PIN RGB Light /Copper Radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have that on my way for my 3950x, it covers all the chiplets on the CPU, I have a post where the measurements were done, it performs within a few degrees C of the Foundation and is less than 1/3 of the price.
> 
> Shipping is really slow though. /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif
> 
> I AM going to get the Foundation when I have the cash though, just something decent for now. It's really one of the best budget blocks for the AMD 3000 series. /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif


 i have the intel version its a good block for the price it worked better with the biggest loop than just the MoRa3.... But after seen what optimus block is capable i have no question in my mind now lol..

I put a few tests back on my intel. They make perfect contact too flattest block i had seen around it sticks like glue once paste is applied xD..


----------



## ThrashZone

KedarWolf said:


> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32920402748.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.66cb4c4dRYO0VO
> 
> Bykski CPU Water Block use for AMD RYZEN3000 AM3 AM3+ AM4 1950X TR4 X399 X570 Motherboard / 5V 3PIN RGB Light /Copper Radiator
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have that on my way for my 3950x, it covers all the chiplets on the CPU, I have a post where the measurements were done, it performs within a few degrees C of the Foundation and is less than 1/3 of the price.
> 
> Shipping is really slow though.
> 
> I AM going to get the Foundation when I have the cash though, just something decent for now. It's really one of the best budget blocks for the AMD 3000 series.


Hi,
Nice 
Foundation is my favorite on Intel it just works without fuss 
Difference I noticed between the amd foundation verses the ultimate amd pre order one is the water jet is opposite 

Foundation is horizontal and ultimate is vertical 
Really wonder how much difference that will make 
The one you posted looks like it's water jet is also horizontal like the foundation is designed.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

I don't know how they did the amd one but this is the Intel version of it.. The jet plate its seperate and it fits in there xD

again, its nice for the price but the thing aint a few degrees off from the optimus on my 7980xe.. im telling you right now lol

heres with the byski block
https://www.overclock.net/forum/28352308-post2177.html

and heres one right away on the v2 with even more overclock/voltage added after i swapped blocks at the same settings/benchmark 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/28352374-post2180.html


----------



## skupples

still trying to wrap my head around all that.

I suppose its nice, if you can then only spend $20 on a new fin section, instead of buying an entirely new block/cold plate.

its gonna take at least 2 generations for that design process to actually bring down your cost of use, unless you're a crazy bencher, always switching parts, i guess? seems those kinda people would still prefer the box of blocks over a customizable one.

I hate the saying, as I don't think it applies well to modern life, but it definitely applies to hardware. jack of all trades, ace of none. sad how the 30,000 foot view people think that's reality. your top tier "jack of all trades" is likely an ace in half of em.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

skupples said:


> still trying to wrap my head around all that.
> 
> I suppose its nice, if you can then only spend $20 on a new fin section, instead of buying an entirely new block/cold plate.
> 
> its gonna take at least 2 generations for that design process to actually bring down your cost of use, unless you're a crazy bencher, always switching parts, i guess? seems those kinda people would still prefer the box of blocks over a customizable one.
> 
> I hate the saying, as I don't think it applies well to modern life, but it definitely applies to hardware. jack of all trades, ace of none. sad how the 30,000 foot view people think that's reality. your top tier "jack of all trades" is likely an ace in half of em.


actually the trick to the thing is more micro fins less metal on the plate thickness of the fin/plate of all my 3 top performers the optimus is the less metal/plate but more microfins........

Well thats the case koolance 380 still doing good after all this years... but the optimus is something i havent seen in a block so far... You need to actually hold the thing in your hands so you see it for yourself after that all other blocks looks like they are just transformer toys no pun intended..


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah if you ever get a sigV2 flat you'll be all set.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

JustinThyme said:


> Thats called MO-RA in the window or in front of AC or not much of an OC
> 
> I have a very good loop and with a pair of 2080Tis max loaded and trying 3 different blocks the HK is where I settled. I idle at 30C and top out at 40C 1.095 and 2150 is a solid number for me although I generally run it clocked back a little under that to 2080.
> 
> Thats rig in sig with 480XE, 360PE, HLlabs GTR 420 and HR labs GTS 360 22-24C ambient.


ahh very nice

I just checked my Kingpin + 9900ks rig... 22 c ambient, Kingpin idles at 31c and topped out at 45c during Time Spy Extreme. AB sliders max, +1200 mem, GPU core is on Nvidia OC Scanner curve. 

CPU and graphics card share a loop with two 420mm radiators.


----------



## JustinThyme

OK Down and dirty on sustained load test runs Optimus Sig V2 full Nickel 

Test rig is in sig
3X d5 pumps
480x60 XE rad with corsair ML SP120 push pull
360 SE rad with QL 120 push
420 GTR rad with Noctua industrial 2000 rpm PWM fans
2X HKIV Strix GPU Blocks 
HK Active VRM block


Platform
ASUS rampage VI Extreme
CPU 9940X 
8x8 Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 3600 CL 18
2X Strix 2080Ti O11G GPUs

Test conditions.
Ambient regulated to 24C measured at inlet to 480 rad outside bottom of case. 

CPU all cores 48X for 4.8GHz all 14 cores no AVX offeset.
XMP enabled
Synch all cores
Vcore 1.225 adaptive
CPU Input 1.900
LLC 5
CPU current and ram current 140% phase control optimized
Long and short term power limits to 4095
Ram OC 3800Mhz CL 16 1.4V
Windows power plan to high performance. which locks in all cores to 4.8Ghz and Vcores to 1.225

Load Blender Classroom animation for 1 hr + a few minutes to finish render of current frame. All done the same.
Power logs from UPS at bottom showing current draw from entire machine, fans, pumps CPU and GPUs at idle. you will noitice varations, thats from pumps and fans changing. No other changes made.

Seven runs
#1 all fans and pumps at 100%
#2 Fans 75% pumps 100%
#3 Fans 100% pumps 50%
#4 fans 75% and pumps 50% 
#5 fans 100% and single D5 100%(Physically removed power from other two pumps)
#6 fans 100% single D5 50%
#7 fans 75% Single D5 50%

Fans at 50% were not successful in multiple runs. Loop temps too hot, CPU became unstable results in my platform at current OC not successful.

Any other questions as to set up or if I forgot something anyone would llike to know please feel free to ask.


UPS LOG polling rate every 60 seconds.



Spoiler



Network Management Card AOS v6.5.0
Smart-UPS & Matrix-UPS APP v6.5.0
NMC Serial Number: ZA1746010549

Model: Smart-UPS SRT 2200
UPS Serial Number: AS1732191900
Firmware Revision: UPS 07.1 (ID1019) 

Date Time Name	Contact	Location	System IP
03/10/2020	23:00:48	2200vA DasBeast UPS Home Office 

Smart-UPS SRT2200 
Date Time Vmin Vmax	Vout Iout	%Wout	%out	FrqOut	%Cap	Vbat	Tups	
03/10/2020	23:00:27	118.11	119.92	119.86	5.34	45.86	43.27	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:59:27	118.45	118.73	119.86	5.13	43.97	41.22	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:58:27	118.41	118.98	119.78	5.16	43.76	41.70	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:57:27	118.77	119.00	119.80	5.16	43.70	41.03	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:56:27	118.75	119.41	119.72	5.16	43.50	40.90	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:55:27	118.59	120.11	119.80	5.09	42.96	40.75	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:54:27	118.44	118.83	119.77	5.16	43.70	41.35	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:53:27	118.38	118.59	119.75	5.09	43.29	40.77	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:52:27	118.39	118.78	119.81	5.06	43.58	41.09	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:51:27	118.48	119.92	119.78	5.06	43.02	40.72	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:50:27	118.42	118.67	119.73	5.19	44.11	41.46	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:49:27	118.44	118.66	119.77	5.06	42.95	41.07	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:48:27	118.45	118.73	119.83	5.09	43.71	40.82	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:47:27	118.42	118.80	119.73	5.13	43.24	40.76	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:46:27	118.45	120.13	119.77	5.16	44.05	41.33	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:45:27	118.50	118.77	119.81	5.22	44.32	41.65	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:44:27	118.48	119.00	119.78	5.19	43.71	41.20	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:43:27	118.48	118.73	119.80	5.09	43.71	40.98	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:42:27	118.33	118.80	119.80	5.13	43.39	41.11	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:41:27	117.52	119.17	119.78	5.13	43.72	40.77	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:40:27	117.59	118.02	119.73	5.16	43.76	41.16	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:39:27	117.89	118.19	119.83	5.16	44.09	41.26	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:38:27	117.88	118.25	119.75	5.09	43.19	41.17	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	22:37:27	117.78	118.28	119.77	5.25	44.82	41.95	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:36:27	117.94	119.91	119.78	5.44	46.56	43.70	60.00	100.00	54.91	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:35:27	119.52	119.84	119.77	2.78	22.46	21.94	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:34:27	119.11	119.88	119.86	2.56	20.23	20.90	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:33:27	118.61	119.45	119.81	2.69	21.09	22.39	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:32:27	119.05	119.47	119.81	2.69	21.36	21.57	60.00	100.00	54.91	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:31:27	117.56	119.45	119.83	2.63	20.79	21.36	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:30:27	117.27	117.98	119.77	5.22	44.77	42.00	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:29:27	117.66	119.22	119.84	4.94	42.40	39.66	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:28:27	117.59	117.80	119.75	4.97	42.60	39.88	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:27:27	117.61	117.97	119.80	5.03	42.93	40.18	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:26:27	117.56	117.94	119.78	4.91	42.45	39.44	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:25:27	117.55	117.80	119.80	4.94	42.25	39.30	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:24:27	117.42	119.09	119.81	5.00	42.80	39.82	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:23:27	117.50	117.77	119.78	5.03	43.12	40.60	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:22:27	117.53	117.92	119.73	5.00	42.71	39.88	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:21:27	117.66	117.95	119.72	4.97	42.70	39.97	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:20:27	117.14	118.08	119.81	4.97	42.50	39.73	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:19:27	117.72	119.38	119.81	4.97	42.46	39.86	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:18:27	117.78	118.13	119.78	5.00	43.07	39.88	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:17:27	117.80	118.06	119.77	4.97	42.94	39.98	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:16:27	117.78	118.02	119.83	4.91	42.70	39.49	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:15:27	117.75	118.08	119.80	4.97	42.81	39.94	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:14:27	117.75	119.30	119.75	4.91	41.89	39.41	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:13:27	117.41	118.03	119.78	4.97	42.59	39.63	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:12:27	117.28	117.61	119.78	5.06	43.48	40.37	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:11:27	117.25	117.52	119.84	4.94	42.26	39.89	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:10:27	117.25	118.97	119.75	4.97	42.87	40.02	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:09:27	117.31	117.59	119.80	4.91	42.07	39.37	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:08:27	117.31	117.70	119.81	4.88	41.94	39.08	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:07:26	117.34	117.67	119.75	4.94	42.59	39.50	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:06:26	117.44	117.61	119.81	4.94	42.42	39.53	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:05:26	117.41	119.05	119.75	5.00	42.89	39.93	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:04:26	117.39	117.80	119.81	4.94	42.42	39.32	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:03:26	117.45	117.72	119.78	4.88	42.05	39.03	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:02:26	117.41	117.67	119.84	4.97	42.70	39.97	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:01:26	117.34	117.56	119.84	4.91	41.81	38.86	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	22:00:26	117.25	118.81	119.77	4.88	41.63	39.20	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:59:26	117.25	117.61	119.83	4.94	42.26	39.89	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:58:26	117.34	117.64	119.78	4.94	42.32	39.64	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:57:26	117.39	118.25	119.77	4.97	42.73	39.89	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:56:26	117.98	118.22	119.75	4.91	42.59	39.43	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:55:26	117.91	119.50	119.83	4.97	42.47	39.58	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:54:26	117.94	118.19	119.81	4.88	41.72	39.12	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:53:26	117.94	118.22	119.78	5.00	42.77	40.07	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:52:26	117.95	118.19	119.83	4.88	41.45	39.30	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:51:26	117.80	119.30	119.75	4.94	42.47	39.60	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:50:26	117.73	118.09	119.84	3.00	25.85	30.51	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:49:26	117.64	118.02	119.75	5.03	43.35	40.41	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:48:26	117.72	118.09	119.81	4.94	42.56	39.64	60.00 100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:47:26	117.72	117.92	119.80	4.94	42.34	39.33	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:46:26	117.75	119.33	119.72	4.94	42.02	39.38	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:45:26	117.69	117.89	119.80	4.97	42.79	39.71	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:44:26	117.67	117.91	119.80	4.91	42.06	39.84	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:43:26	117.61	117.97	119.80	4.88	42.16	39.17	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:42:26	117.72	117.95	119.80	4.91	41.85	39.51	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:41:26	117.66	119.13	119.81	4.94	42.56	39.58	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:40:26	117.56	117.77	119.80	4.91	42.08	39.44	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:39:26	117.52	117.69	119.78	5.00	42.70	40.13	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:38:26	117.41	117.73	119.81	4.91	42.13	39.48	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:37:26	117.33	117.64	119.75	4.88	42.06	39.01	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:36:26	117.44	119.05	119.83	4.88	42.21	39.32	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:35:26	117.39	118.03	119.80	5.06	43.34	40.08	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:34:26	117.70	117.95	119.77	4.97	42.45	39.80	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:33:26	117.75	117.97	119.78	4.94	42.07	39.55	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:32:26	117.70	117.95	119.83	4.97	42.46	39.97	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:31:26	117.59	119.27	119.83	4.97	42.76	39.70	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:30:26	117.38	117.81	119.81	4.97	42.93	39.99	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:29:26	117.52	117.94	119.77	4.97	42.49	40.07	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:28:26	117.73	118.17	119.77	5.00	42.73	39.95	60.00	100.00	55.00	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:27:26	117.59	117.94	119.78	4.97	42.69	39.70	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:26:26	117.58	119.23	119.77	4.88	41.97	39.31	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:25:26	117.56	117.80	119.77	4.94	42.72	39.78	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:24:26	117.59	118.23	119.78	4.94	42.70	39.76	60.00	100.00	55.00	+27.00	
03/10/2020	21:23:26	117.53	117.86	119.80	4.94	42.44	39.56	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:22:26	117.56	117.91	119.81	4.94	42.26	39.50	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:21:26	117.55	119.17	119.78	4.91	42.06	39.45	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:20:26	117.58	117.89	119.75	4.91	42.45	39.45	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:19:26	117.45	117.80	119.80	4.97	42.46	39.66	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:18:26	117.42	117.73	119.80	4.91	42.06	39.61	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:17:26	117.47	119.06	119.75	4.91	41.98	39.27	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:16:26	117.39	117.72	119.81	5.03	43.30	39.97	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:15:26	117.50	117.72	119.80	4.97	42.80	40.21	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:14:26	117.45	117.78	119.77	4.94	42.18	39.84	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:13:26	117.42	117.81	119.83	4.94	42.75	39.54	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:12:26	117.38	119.16	119.83	4.97	42.69	40.11	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:11:26	117.44	117.66	119.80	5.00	43.23	40.29	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:10:26	117.42	117.81	119.81	4.91	42.11	39.48	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:09:26	117.42	117.77	119.78	4.94	42.29	39.44	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:08:26	117.50	117.91	119.77	4.94	42.84	39.68	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:07:26	117.47	119.20	119.75	4.94	42.36	39.80	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:06:26	117.47	117.75	119.75	5.03	43.47	40.37	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:05:26	117.45	117.70	119.80	4.91	42.39	39.40	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:04:26	117.48	117.80	119.78	4.97	42.93	40.00	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:03:26	117.50	117.75	119.81	5.00	42.93	40.03	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:02:26	117.55	119.16	119.81	4.94	42.39	39.69	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:01:26	117.53	117.80	119.81	4.91	41.99	39.25	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	21:00:26	117.45	117.69	119.86	4.97	42.64	39.69	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:59:26	117.48	117.73	119.84	4.94	42.31	39.69	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:58:26	117.52	119.16	119.78	5.00	42.30	39.93	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:57:26	117.42	117.80	119.72	4.56	38.85	36.74	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:56:26	117.22	117.64	119.81	5.03	43.08	40.61	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:55:26	117.31	117.61	119.77	4.94	42.26	39.34	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:54:26	117.30	117.59	119.80	4.97	43.07	39.92	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:53:26	117.25	119.03	119.72	4.84	41.29	39.23	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:52:26	117.19	117.45	119.77	4.91	42.00	39.56	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:51:26	117.16	117.48	119.80	4.94	42.15	39.32	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:50:26	117.23	117.61	119.77	4.91	42.36	39.19	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:49:26	117.31	117.53	119.77	4.91	42.58	39.58	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:48:26	117.14	118.80	119.83	4.97	42.63	39.76	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:47:26	117.08	117.38	119.77	5.00	42.98	40.07	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:46:26	117.08	117.36	119.73	4.94	42.21	39.20	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:45:26	117.03	117.27	119.78	5.00	42.74	39.96	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:44:26	117.05	117.23	119.84	5.00	42.81	39.99	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:43:26	116.97	118.66	119.78	4.94	42.71	39.56	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:42:25	117.06	117.28	119.78	5.09	43.51	40.95	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:41:25	117.03	117.28	119.77	5.13	43.78	40.97	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:40:25	116.94	117.22	119.81	5.13	43.74	40.99	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:39:25	117.06	117.66	119.77	5.09	43.59	40.86	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:38:25	117.42	119.17	119.83	4.97	42.43	40.22	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:37:25	117.28	117.67	119.78	5.09	43.53	40.91	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:36:25	117.20	117.67	119.80	5.09	43.59	40.86	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:35:25	117.25	117.56	119.78	5.06	43.02	40.45	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:34:25	117.16	118.89	119.75	5.06	43.46	40.61	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:33:25	117.02	117.47	119.78	5.06	43.23	40.44	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:32:25	117.25	117.50	119.83	5.09	43.44	40.95	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:31:25	117.20	117.52	119.78	5.06	43.11	40.68	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:30:25	117.14	117.41	119.75	5.19	43.77	40.94	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:29:25	117.22	118.84	119.81	5.19	44.41	41.89	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:28:25	116.98	117.52	119.77	5.28	45.25	42.54	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:27:25	116.92	117.28	119.77	5.19	44.10	41.73	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:26:25	116.97	117.23	119.77	5.25	44.74	42.03	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:25:25	116.95	117.31	119.78	5.19	44.21	41.47	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:24:25	117.02	118.50	119.73	5.19	44.30	41.66	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:23:25	116.94	117.31	119.80	5.25	44.77	42.17	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:22:25	117.06	117.61	119.72	5.25	45.29	42.15	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:21:25	117.11	117.45	119.77	5.22	44.84	41.83	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:20:25	117.05	117.39	119.80	5.25	45.22	41.89	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:19:25	117.02	118.61	119.80	5.16	44.17	41.30	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:18:25	117.00	117.28	119.80	5.19	44.13	41.64	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:17:25	117.03	117.30	119.75	5.25	44.87	42.33	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:16:25	117.06	117.31	119.78	5.22	44.70	42.13	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:15:25	116.97	118.55	119.78	5.22	44.60	41.91	60.00	100.00	55.09	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:14:25	116.88	117.22	119.78	5.06	42.93	40.49	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:13:25	116.97	117.36	119.78	5.28	44.73	42.03	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:12:25	117.02	117.34	119.83	5.19	43.92	41.38	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:11:25	116.97	117.23	119.75	5.19	44.22	41.41	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:10:25	116.94	118.50	119.80	5.19	44.19	41.85	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:09:25	116.86	117.28	119.81	5.19	44.11	41.73	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:08:25	116.89	117.20	119.75	5.28	45.09	42.37	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:07:25	116.84	117.30	119.73	5.16	44.01	41.71	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:06:25	116.86	117.22	119.80	5.16	43.70	41.56	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:05:25	116.78	118.67	119.80	5.25	44.70	41.68	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:04:25	118.17	118.61	119.75	2.72	22.05	22.20	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:03:25	118.16	118.67	119.80	2.75	21.37	22.11	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:02:25	117.98	118.52	119.77	2.81	22.47	22.28	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:01:25	115.78	118.42	119.77	2.91	23.47	23.35	60.00	100.00	55.09	+26.00	
03/10/2020	20:00:25	113.86	118.25	119.81	5.28	44.64	42.43	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:59:25	113.86	116.98	119.80	5.22	44.16	41.79	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:58:25	113.06	116.95	119.80	5.38	46.03	43.24	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:57:25	116.33	117.08	119.84	5.31	45.14	42.28	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:56:25	116.89	117.17	119.86	4.88	41.73	39.21	60.00	100.00	55.09	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:55:25	116.84	118.45	119.77	5.00	42.95	40.41	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:54:25	116.88	117.14	119.75	5.00	43.07	40.15	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:53:25	116.84	117.16	119.80	5.03	43.13	39.92	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:52:25	116.83	117.17	119.81	5.00	43.27	40.32	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:51:25	116.91	117.17	119.78	5.00	43.20	40.04	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:50:25	116.97	118.59	119.75	4.94	42.48	39.96	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:49:25	116.88	117.09	119.83	5.09	43.67	40.66	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:48:25	116.80	117.19	119.77	5.13	43.97	40.57	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:47:25	116.92	117.20	119.83	5.09	43.46	40.62	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:46:25	116.95	117.31	119.83	5.03	43.15	40.54	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:45:25	116.55	118.53	119.80	4.97	42.28	39.80	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:44:25	116.78	117.14	119.77	5.00	43.14	39.97	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:43:25	116.77	117.08	119.78	5.09	43.52	40.46	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:42:25	116.81	117.16	119.83	5.06	43.52	40.50	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:41:25	116.95	118.64	119.81	5.06	42.89	39.87	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:40:25	117.00	117.39	119.83	4.53	38.44	37.00	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:39:25	116.83	117.22	119.75	5.13	44.00	41.11	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:38:25	116.83	117.19	119.81	4.97	42.56	39.88	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:37:25	116.80	117.16	119.80	5.00	43.09	40.05	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:36:25	116.72	118.42	119.75	5.00	42.66	39.93	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:35:25	116.69	116.94	119.75	5.03	43.46	39.84	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:34:25	116.64	116.92	119.81	5.19	44.14	41.57	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:33:25	116.67	116.92	119.77	5.13	44.10	41.10	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:32:25	116.61	116.83	119.81	5.06	43.09	40.89	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:31:25	116.69	118.33	119.80	5.16	44.10	41.30	60.00	100.00	55.09	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:30:25	116.66	116.94	119.78	5.19	44.33	41.58	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:29:25	116.66	116.91	119.77	5.06	43.23	40.90	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:28:25	116.72	116.95	119.77	5.22	44.58	41.66	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:27:25	116.66	116.98	119.80	5.19	44.38	41.36	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:26:25	116.64	118.30	119.77	5.22	44.63	41.86	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:25:25	116.69	116.91	119.78	5.13	43.59	41.37	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:24:25	116.66	116.92	119.77	5.19	44.71	41.68	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:23:25	116.50	116.86	119.77	5.22	44.70	41.76	60.00	100.00	55.09	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:22:25	116.53	116.95	119.86	5.38	46.09	42.58	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:21:25	116.39	118.19	119.75	5.28	45.02	42.01	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:20:25	116.42	116.69	119.81	5.31	45.48	42.59	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:19:25	116.34	116.64	119.73	5.41	45.74	43.15	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:18:25	116.36	116.64	119.72	5.34	45.80	42.64	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:17:24	116.44	118.06	119.75	5.31	45.51	42.37	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:16:24	116.48	116.72	119.75	5.19	44.35	41.86	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:15:24	116.58	116.80	119.77	5.44	46.46	43.43	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:14:24	116.58	116.78	119.75	5.28	45.21	42.29	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:13:24	116.44	116.84	119.81	5.28	45.14	42.48	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:12:24	116.50	118.09	119.80	5.31	45.50	42.48	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:11:24	116.44	116.89	119.81	5.25	45.05	42.40	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:10:24	116.28	116.63	119.83	5.31	45.55	42.70	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:09:24	116.34	116.59	119.80	5.22	44.73	42.17	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:08:24	116.23	116.61	119.77	5.31	45.51	42.44	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:07:24	116.28	117.91	119.75	5.31	45.11	42.00	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:06:24	116.23	116.66	119.77	5.34	45.75	42.82	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:05:24	116.42	116.80	119.77	5.34	45.87	43.00	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:04:24	116.53	116.84	119.78	5.25	45.02	42.00	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:03:24	116.52	116.91	119.80	5.25	44.65	42.23	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:02:24	116.61	118.06	119.78	5.25	45.52	42.21	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:01:24	116.67	117.02	119.75	5.28	44.91	42.42	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	19:00:24	116.67	117.02	119.78	5.38	45.85	42.96	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:59:24	116.64	117.16	119.80	5.34	45.65	42.68	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:58:24	116.69	117.17	119.80	5.38	45.88	43.04	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:57:24	116.83	118.56	119.77	5.25	44.88	41.73	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:56:24	117.84	118.63	119.83	2.72	21.43	22.19	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:55:24	118.05	119.17	119.84	2.59	20.93	21.71	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:54:24	118.77	119.36	119.83	2.91	22.27	23.51	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:53:24	118.64	119.33	119.81	2.88	23.30	22.88	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:52:24	117.20	119.19	119.78	2.91	23.36	23.42	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:51:24	117.58	117.80	119.81	5.38	45.70	42.61	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:50:24	117.41	117.91	119.78	5.28	45.33	42.61	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:49:24	117.30	117.53	119.80	5.31	45.50	42.46	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:48:24	117.09	119.19	119.80	5.38	45.47	42.61	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:47:24	117.55	117.83	119.73	5.03	43.17	40.45	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:46:24	117.50	117.92	119.81	5.09	43.48	40.67	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:45:24	117.50	117.92	119.72	5.03	43.35	40.54	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:44:24	117.47	117.83	119.78	4.97	42.90	40.00	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:43:24	117.56	119.13	119.78	5.03	43.34	40.55	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:42:24	117.53	118.00	119.84	5.06	43.30	40.55	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:41:24	117.69	117.98	119.77	5.09	43.46	40.71	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:40:24	117.61	117.88	119.80	5.03	43.20	40.45	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:39:24	117.66	117.95	119.80	5.00	43.58	40.25	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:38:24	117.59	119.23	119.83	5.00	43.15	39.85	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:37:24	117.52	117.91	119.80	5.03	43.57	40.54	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:36:24	117.70	117.97	119.77	5.06	43.31	40.41	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:35:24	117.80	118.09	119.81	5.09	43.74	41.01	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:34:24	117.92	118.22	119.78	5.06	43.66	40.31	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:33:24	116.97	119.48	119.77	5.06	43.60	40.57	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:32:24	116.98	117.38	119.80	5.06	43.81	40.75	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:31:24	117.08	117.48	119.77	5.13	43.83	40.94	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:30:24	117.09	117.38	119.88	5.13	43.88	41.06	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:29:24	117.11	118.39	119.83	5.06	43.60	40.56	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:28:24	116.97	118.61	119.78	3.38	28.28	25.85	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:27:24	117.00	117.34	119.80	5.34	45.47	42.21	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:26:24	117.03	117.34	119.78	5.22	44.70	41.79	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:25:24	117.11	117.41	119.81	5.19	44.56	41.46	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:24:24	117.19	118.78	119.80	5.13	44.11	41.35	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:23:24	117.05	117.41	119.77	5.19	44.45	41.45	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:22:24	117.11	117.45	119.81	5.22	44.84	41.44	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:21:24	117.13	117.47	119.73	5.13	44.11	41.19	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:20:24	117.16	117.52	119.81	5.16	44.05	41.31	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:19:24	117.33	119.00	119.75	5.19	44.53	41.57	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:18:24	117.23	117.55	119.81	5.28	45.21	42.20	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:17:24	117.30	117.67	119.77	5.25	44.93	41.89	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:16:24	117.31	117.58	119.81	5.38	46.04	43.01	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:15:24	117.30	117.66	119.83	5.34	45.70	42.88	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:14:24	117.36	118.98	119.80	5.34	45.50	42.79	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:13:24	117.30	117.86	119.78	5.34	45.75	42.97	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:12:24	117.50	117.88	119.83	5.41	46.44	43.23	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:11:24	117.48	117.97	119.78	5.38	45.73	43.25	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:10:24	117.75	118.06	119.75	5.31	45.41	42.76	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:09:24	117.77	119.41	119.80	5.34	45.26	42.37	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:08:24	117.47	118.08	119.80	5.22	44.72	42.50	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:07:24	117.34	117.59	119.81	5.38	46.23	43.21	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:06:24	117.45	117.73	119.72	5.31	45.18	42.66	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:05:24	117.55	119.06	119.75	5.31	45.42	42.71	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:04:23	117.48	117.78	119.80	5.38	46.18	43.13	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:03:23	117.36	117.75	119.75	5.38	45.98	42.82	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:02:23	117.47	117.78	119.83	5.34	45.46	42.80	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:01:23	117.28	117.69	119.77	5.31	45.20	42.27	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	18:00:23	117.33	118.89	119.81	5.31	45.70	42.76	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:59:23	117.28	117.64	119.80	5.41	45.95	42.93	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:58:23	117.41	117.69	119.78	5.38	46.10	43.18	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:57:23	117.38	117.78	119.78	5.38	45.99	43.00	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:56:23	117.20	117.63	119.81	5.34	45.69	42.49	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:55:23	117.42	119.06	119.77	5.28	45.30	42.70	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:54:23	117.45	118.19	119.78	5.28	45.14	42.23	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:53:23	117.52	117.91	119.78	5.34	45.50	42.71	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:52:23	117.63	118.08	119.83	5.34	45.57	42.81	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:51:23	117.33	117.88	119.78	5.31	45.46	42.52	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:50:23	117.34	119.53	119.77	5.53	47.08	43.32	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:49:23	118.27	119.53	119.83	2.75	21.94	22.06	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:48:23	118.52	119.41	119.81	2.72	21.84	22.49	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:47:23	117.97	119.52	119.75	3.84	31.90	32.68	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:46:23	117.59	118.78	119.81	3.75	30.68	30.20	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:45:23	117.44	117.80	119.80	5.31	45.52	42.66	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:44:23	117.50	117.78	119.81	5.28	45.09	42.25	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:43:23	117.34	119.08	119.77	5.28	44.98	42.59	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:42:23	117.34	117.81	119.73	5.28	45.57	42.85	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:41:23	117.53	117.83	119.72	5.31	45.34	42.97	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:40:23	117.31	117.77	119.73	5.41	46.45	43.43	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:39:23	117.30	117.61	119.83	5.38	45.86	43.16	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:38:23	117.05	118.80	119.75	5.34	45.64	42.62	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:37:23	116.94	117.23	119.78	5.41	46.27	42.79	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:36:23	116.88	117.22	119.86	5.38	46.28	43.04	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:35:23	116.91	117.30	119.81	5.44	46.56	43.40	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:34:23	116.89	117.22	119.81	5.28	45.26	42.65	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:33:23	116.75	118.50	119.72	5.28	45.14	42.41	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:32:23	116.73	117.11	119.78	5.41	46.32	43.12	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:31:23	116.78	117.13	119.83	5.34	45.75	43.16	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:30:23	116.80	117.13	119.81	5.31	45.57	42.64	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:29:23	116.66	118.67	119.80	5.31	45.13	42.44	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:28:23	118.17	118.88	119.80	3.41	27.73	26.68	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:27:23	117.05	118.81	119.78	2.81	22.64	23.11	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:26:23	116.77	118.41	119.75	5.31	45.36	42.65	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:25:23	116.70	117.42	119.80	5.31	45.61	42.92	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:24:23	117.00	117.64	119.81	5.06	43.34	40.40	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:23:23	117.09	117.44	119.81	5.16	44.02	41.06	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:22:23	117.05	117.52	119.80	5.13	44.19	40.97	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:21:23	117.20	118.89	119.80	5.03	43.56	40.36	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:20:23	117.05	117.70	119.78	5.06	43.49	40.48	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:19:23	117.14	117.47	119.81	5.06	43.39	40.70	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:18:23	117.27	117.66	119.80	5.09	43.63	40.64	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:17:23	117.28	118.98	119.86	5.06	43.46	40.32	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:16:23	117.02	117.42	119.77	5.06	43.31	40.19	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:15:23	117.02	117.36	119.83	5.13	43.91	40.93	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:14:23	117.11	117.42	119.77	5.00	43.19	40.32	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:13:23	117.13	117.36	119.78	5.00	43.52	40.31	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:12:23	117.14	118.70	119.77	5.03	43.45	40.33	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:11:23	117.06	117.31	119.81	5.00	43.29	40.11	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:10:23	116.98	117.27	119.77	5.09	43.66	40.93	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:09:23	116.98	117.25	119.80	5.06	43.36	40.71	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:08:23	116.92	117.30	119.80	5.03	43.12	40.47	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:07:23	116.97	118.59	119.81	5.09	44.05	40.94	60.00	100.00	55.09	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:06:23	116.94	117.30	119.69	5.00	42.97	40.04	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:05:23	116.84	117.23	119.84	5.03	43.32	40.34	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:04:23	115.86	117.30	119.83	5.09	44.23	41.08	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:03:23	116.80	117.27	119.86	5.06	43.70	40.57	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:02:23	116.69	118.47	119.81	5.13	44.01	41.46	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:01:23	116.58	117.05	119.75	5.22	44.68	41.88	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	17:00:23	116.64	117.09	119.75	5.25	45.06	41.85	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:59:23	116.75	117.08	119.78	5.22	44.80	42.01	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:58:23	116.86	117.23	119.80	5.19	44.60	41.68	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:57:23	117.00	118.63	119.81	5.16	44.34	41.31	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:56:23	117.19	117.44	119.83	5.22	44.88	41.90	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:55:23	117.19	117.50	119.80	5.19	44.58	41.83	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:54:23	117.23	117.63	119.78	5.19	44.41	41.70	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:53:23	117.20	118.95	119.78	5.16	44.31	41.62	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:52:23	117.34	117.64	119.78	5.19	44.04	41.02	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:51:23	117.39	117.63	119.83	5.25	45.13	42.17	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:50:23	117.28	117.66	119.75	5.25	44.86	42.23	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:49:23	117.33	117.63	119.77	5.25	44.74	42.39	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:48:23	117.31	118.95	119.75	5.31	45.26	42.70	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:47:23	117.42	117.63	119.81	5.38	45.93	43.25	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:46:23	117.36	117.69	119.83	5.34	45.43	42.95	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:45:23	117.39	117.75	119.73	5.34	45.69	42.75	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:44:23	117.61	117.94	119.77	5.34	45.68	42.66	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:43:23	117.56	119.19	119.77	5.19	44.61	42.21	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:42:23	117.31	117.86	119.75	5.41	46.26	43.13	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:41:23	117.34	117.63	119.80	5.22	44.14	42.12	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:40:23	117.34	117.81	119.81	5.38	46.24	43.33	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:39:23	117.30	117.72	119.77	5.38	45.57	42.18	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:38:23	117.45	118.97	119.86	5.28	45.34	42.66	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:37:22	117.53	117.88	119.77	5.25	45.08	42.14	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:36:22	117.45	117.86	119.83	5.38	45.79	42.94	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:35:22	117.34	117.77	119.80	5.31	45.55	42.94	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:34:22	117.38	117.81	119.86	5.25	44.84	42.46	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:33:22	117.64	119.20	119.77	5.19	44.19	41.50	60.00	100.00 55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:32:22	117.64	117.95	119.78	5.41	46.26	43.57	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:31:22	117.58	117.95	119.81	5.31	45.45	42.42	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:30:22	117.59	117.84	119.81	5.34	45.41	42.67	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:29:22	117.50	118.91	119.80	5.22	44.71	41.95	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:28:22	117.47	117.75	119.81	5.31	45.35	42.38	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:27:22	117.47	117.69	119.78	5.34	45.67	42.71	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:26:22	117.44	117.64	119.84	5.22	44.69	42.17	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:25:22	117.31	117.78	119.83	5.16	44.55	41.79	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:24:22	117.44	119.44	119.80	5.28	45.32	42.39	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:23:22	117.61	119.44	119.84	2.94	24.24	23.51	60.00	100.00	55.09	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:22:22	118.77	119.20	119.77	3.09	25.13	24.13	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00	
03/10/2020	16:21:22	118.80	119.31	119.77	3.16	24.57	24.87	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00



All this mumbo jumo equates to 5.44Ax119.8V=651.1722 watts from UPS output, better than any of the cheap power plug ins you will ever find. This is total watts including all pumps so you will see it go up and down, sample is peak. 


IMO this is an excellent performing block on HEDT 9940X and would not hesitate a recommendation. Test results showed a max temp 3C difference from all fans and pumps at 100% to 75% fans and single D5 at 50%.


----------



## KedarWolf

JustinThyme said:


> OK Down and dirty on sustained load test runs Optimus Sig V2 full Nickel
> 
> Test rig is in sig
> 3X d5 pumps
> 480x60 XE rad with corsair ML SP120 push pull
> 360 SE rad with QL 120 push
> 420 GTR rad with Noctua industrial 2000 rpm PWM fans
> 2X HKIV Strix GPU Blocks
> HK Active VRM block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Platform
> ASUS rampage VI Extreme
> CPU 9940X
> 8x8 Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 3600 CL 18
> 2X Strix 2080Ti O11G GPUs
> 
> Test conditions.
> Ambient regulated to 24C measured at inlet to 480 rad outside bottom of case.
> 
> CPU all cores 48X for 4.8GHz all 14 cores no AVX offeset.
> XMP enabled
> Synch all cores
> Vcore 1.225 adaptive
> CPU Input 1.900
> LLC 5
> CPU current and ram current 140% phase control optimized
> Long and short term power limits to 4095
> Ram OC 3800Mhz CL 16 1.4V
> Windows power plan to high performance. which locks in all cores to 4.8Ghz and Vcores to 1.225
> 
> Load Blender Classroom animation for 1 hr + a few minutes to finish render of current frame. All done the same.
> Power logs from UPS at bottom showing current draw from entire machine, fans, pumps CPU and GPUs at idle. you will noitice varations, thats from pumps and fans changing. No other changes made.
> 
> Seven runs
> #1 all fans and pumps at 100%
> #2 Fans 75% pumps 100%
> #3 Fans 100% pumps 50%
> #4 fans 75% and pumps 50%
> #5 fans 100% and single D5 100%(Physically removed power from other two pumps)
> #6 fans 100% single D5 50%
> #7 fans 75% Single D5 50%
> 
> Fans at 50% were not successful in multiple runs. Loop temps too hot, CPU became unstable results in my platform at current OC not successful.
> 
> Any other questions as to set up or if I forgot something anyone would llike to know please feel free to ask.
> 
> 
> UPS LOG polling rate every 60 seconds.
> 
> Network Management Card AOS v6.5.0
> Smart-UPS & Matrix-UPS APP v6.5.0
> NMC Serial Number: ZA1746010549
> 
> Model: Smart-UPS SRT 2200
> UPS Serial Number: AS1732191900
> Firmware Revision: UPS 07.1 (ID1019)
> 
> Date Time Name	Contact	Location	System IP
> 03/10/2020	23:00:48	2200vA DasBeast UPS Home Office
> 
> Smart-UPS SRT2200
> Date Time Vmin Vmax	Vout Iout	%Wout	%out	FrqOut	%Cap	Vbat	Tups
> 03/10/2020	23:00:27	118.11	119.92	119.86	5.34	45.86	43.27	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:59:27	118.45	118.73	119.86	5.13	43.97	41.22	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:58:27	118.41	118.98	119.78	5.16	43.76	41.70	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:57:27	118.77	119.00	119.80	5.16	43.70	41.03	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:56:27	118.75	119.41	119.72	5.16	43.50	40.90	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:55:27	118.59	120.11	119.80	5.09	42.96	40.75	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:54:27	118.44	118.83	119.77	5.16	43.70	41.35	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:53:27	118.38	118.59	119.75	5.09	43.29	40.77	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:52:27	118.39	118.78	119.81	5.06	43.58	41.09	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:51:27	118.48	119.92	119.78	5.06	43.02	40.72	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:50:27	118.42	118.67	119.73	5.19	44.11	41.46	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:49:27	118.44	118.66	119.77	5.06	42.95	41.07	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:48:27	118.45	118.73	119.83	5.09	43.71	40.82	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:47:27	118.42	118.80	119.73	5.13	43.24	40.76	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:46:27	118.45	120.13	119.77	5.16	44.05	41.33	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:45:27	118.50	118.77	119.81	5.22	44.32	41.65	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:44:27	118.48	119.00	119.78	5.19	43.71	41.20	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:43:27	118.48	118.73	119.80	5.09	43.71	40.98	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:42:27	118.33	118.80	119.80	5.13	43.39	41.11	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:41:27	117.52	119.17	119.78	5.13	43.72	40.77	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:40:27	117.59	118.02	119.73	5.16	43.76	41.16	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:39:27	117.89	118.19	119.83	5.16	44.09	41.26	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:38:27	117.88	118.25	119.75	5.09	43.19	41.17	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	22:37:27	117.78	118.28	119.77	5.25	44.82	41.95	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:36:27	117.94	119.91	119.78	5.44	46.56	43.70	60.00	100.00	54.91	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:35:27	119.52	119.84	119.77	2.78	22.46	21.94	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:34:27	119.11	119.88	119.86	2.56	20.23	20.90	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:33:27	118.61	119.45	119.81	2.69	21.09	22.39	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:32:27	119.05	119.47	119.81	2.69	21.36	21.57	60.00	100.00	54.91	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:31:27	117.56	119.45	119.83	2.63	20.79	21.36	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:30:27	117.27	117.98	119.77	5.22	44.77	42.00	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:29:27	117.66	119.22	119.84	4.94	42.40	39.66	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:28:27	117.59	117.80	119.75	4.97	42.60	39.88	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:27:27	117.61	117.97	119.80	5.03	42.93	40.18	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:26:27	117.56	117.94	119.78	4.91	42.45	39.44	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:25:27	117.55	117.80	119.80	4.94	42.25	39.30	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:24:27	117.42	119.09	119.81	5.00	42.80	39.82	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:23:27	117.50	117.77	119.78	5.03	43.12	40.60	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:22:27	117.53	117.92	119.73	5.00	42.71	39.88	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:21:27	117.66	117.95	119.72	4.97	42.70	39.97	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:20:27	117.14	118.08	119.81	4.97	42.50	39.73	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:19:27	117.72	119.38	119.81	4.97	42.46	39.86	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:18:27	117.78	118.13	119.78	5.00	43.07	39.88	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:17:27	117.80	118.06	119.77	4.97	42.94	39.98	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:16:27	117.78	118.02	119.83	4.91	42.70	39.49	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:15:27	117.75	118.08	119.80	4.97	42.81	39.94	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:14:27	117.75	119.30	119.75	4.91	41.89	39.41	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:13:27	117.41	118.03	119.78	4.97	42.59	39.63	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:12:27	117.28	117.61	119.78	5.06	43.48	40.37	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:11:27	117.25	117.52	119.84	4.94	42.26	39.89	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:10:27	117.25	118.97	119.75	4.97	42.87	40.02	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:09:27	117.31	117.59	119.80	4.91	42.07	39.37	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:08:27	117.31	117.70	119.81	4.88	41.94	39.08	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:07:26	117.34	117.67	119.75	4.94	42.59	39.50	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:06:26	117.44	117.61	119.81	4.94	42.42	39.53	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:05:26	117.41	119.05	119.75	5.00	42.89	39.93	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:04:26	117.39	117.80	119.81	4.94	42.42	39.32	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:03:26	117.45	117.72	119.78	4.88	42.05	39.03	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:02:26	117.41	117.67	119.84	4.97	42.70	39.97	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:01:26	117.34	117.56	119.84	4.91	41.81	38.86	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	22:00:26	117.25	118.81	119.77	4.88	41.63	39.20	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:59:26	117.25	117.61	119.83	4.94	42.26	39.89	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:58:26	117.34	117.64	119.78	4.94	42.32	39.64	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:57:26	117.39	118.25	119.77	4.97	42.73	39.89	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:56:26	117.98	118.22	119.75	4.91	42.59	39.43	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:55:26	117.91	119.50	119.83	4.97	42.47	39.58	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:54:26	117.94	118.19	119.81	4.88	41.72	39.12	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:53:26	117.94	118.22	119.78	5.00	42.77	40.07	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:52:26	117.95	118.19	119.83	4.88	41.45	39.30	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:51:26	117.80	119.30	119.75	4.94	42.47	39.60	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:50:26	117.73	118.09	119.84	3.00	25.85	30.51	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:49:26	117.64	118.02	119.75	5.03	43.35	40.41	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:48:26	117.72	118.09	119.81	4.94	42.56	39.64	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:47:26	117.72	117.92	119.80	4.94	42.34	39.33	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:46:26	117.75	119.33	119.72	4.94	42.02	39.38	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:45:26	117.69	117.89	119.80	4.97	42.79	39.71	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:44:26	117.67	117.91	119.80	4.91	42.06	39.84	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:43:26	117.61	117.97	119.80	4.88	42.16	39.17	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:42:26	117.72	117.95	119.80	4.91	41.85	39.51	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:41:26	117.66	119.13	119.81	4.94	42.56	39.58	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:40:26	117.56	117.77	119.80	4.91	42.08	39.44	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:39:26	117.52	117.69	119.78	5.00	42.70	40.13	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:38:26	117.41	117.73	119.81	4.91	42.13	39.48	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:37:26	117.33	117.64	119.75	4.88	42.06	39.01	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:36:26	117.44	119.05	119.83	4.88	42.21	39.32	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:35:26	117.39	118.03	119.80	5.06	43.34	40.08	60.00	100.00	54.94	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:34:26	117.70	117.95	119.77	4.97	42.45	39.80	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:33:26	117.75	117.97	119.78	4.94	42.07	39.55	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:32:26	117.70	117.95	119.83	4.97	42.46	39.97	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:31:26	117.59	119.27	119.83	4.97	42.76	39.70	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:30:26	117.38	117.81	119.81	4.97	42.93	39.99	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:29:26	117.52	117.94	119.77	4.97	42.49	40.07	60.00	100.00	54.97	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:28:26	117.73	118.17	119.77	5.00	42.73	39.95	60.00	100.00	55.00	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:27:26	117.59	117.94	119.78	4.97	42.69	39.70	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:26:26	117.58	119.23	119.77	4.88	41.97	39.31	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:25:26	117.56	117.80	119.77	4.94	42.72	39.78	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:24:26	117.59	118.23	119.78	4.94	42.70	39.76	60.00	100.00	55.00	+27.00
> 03/10/2020	21:23:26	117.53	117.86	119.80	4.94	42.44	39.56	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:22:26	117.56	117.91	119.81	4.94	42.26	39.50	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:21:26	117.55	119.17	119.78	4.91	42.06	39.45	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:20:26	117.58	117.89	119.75	4.91	42.45	39.45	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:19:26	117.45	117.80	119.80	4.97	42.46	39.66	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:18:26	117.42	117.73	119.80	4.91	42.06	39.61	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:17:26	117.47	119.06	119.75	4.91	41.98	39.27	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:16:26	117.39	117.72	119.81	5.03	43.30	39.97	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:15:26	117.50	117.72	119.80	4.97	42.80	40.21	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:14:26	117.45	117.78	119.77	4.94	42.18	39.84	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:13:26	117.42	117.81	119.83	4.94	42.75	39.54	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:12:26	117.38	119.16	119.83	4.97	42.69	40.11	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:11:26	117.44	117.66	119.80	5.00	43.23	40.29	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:10:26	117.42	117.81	119.81	4.91	42.11	39.48	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:09:26	117.42	117.77	119.78	4.94	42.29	39.44	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:08:26	117.50	117.91	119.77	4.94	42.84	39.68	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:07:26	117.47	119.20	119.75	4.94	42.36	39.80	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:06:26	117.47	117.75	119.75	5.03	43.47	40.37	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:05:26	117.45	117.70	119.80	4.91	42.39	39.40	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:04:26	117.48	117.80	119.78	4.97	42.93	40.00	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:03:26	117.50	117.75	119.81	5.00	42.93	40.03	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:02:26	117.55	119.16	119.81	4.94	42.39	39.69	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:01:26	117.53	117.80	119.81	4.91	41.99	39.25	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	21:00:26	117.45	117.69	119.86	4.97	42.64	39.69	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:59:26	117.48	117.73	119.84	4.94	42.31	39.69	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:58:26	117.52	119.16	119.78	5.00	42.30	39.93	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:57:26	117.42	117.80	119.72	4.56	38.85	36.74	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:56:26	117.22	117.64	119.81	5.03	43.08	40.61	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:55:26	117.31	117.61	119.77	4.94	42.26	39.34	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:54:26	117.30	117.59	119.80	4.97	43.07	39.92	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:53:26	117.25	119.03	119.72	4.84	41.29	39.23	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:52:26	117.19	117.45	119.77	4.91	42.00	39.56	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:51:26	117.16	117.48	119.80	4.94	42.15	39.32	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:50:26	117.23	117.61	119.77	4.91	42.36	39.19	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:49:26	117.31	117.53	119.77	4.91	42.58	39.58	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:48:26	117.14	118.80	119.83	4.97	42.63	39.76	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:47:26	117.08	117.38	119.77	5.00	42.98	40.07	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:46:26	117.08	117.36	119.73	4.94	42.21	39.20	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:45:26	117.03	117.27	119.78	5.00	42.74	39.96	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:44:26	117.05	117.23	119.84	5.00	42.81	39.99	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:43:26	116.97	118.66	119.78	4.94	42.71	39.56	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:42:25	117.06	117.28	119.78	5.09	43.51	40.95	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:41:25	117.03	117.28	119.77	5.13	43.78	40.97	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:40:25	116.94	117.22	119.81	5.13	43.74	40.99	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:39:25	117.06	117.66	119.77	5.09	43.59	40.86	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:38:25	117.42	119.17	119.83	4.97	42.43	40.22	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:37:25	117.28	117.67	119.78	5.09	43.53	40.91	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:36:25	117.20	117.67	119.80	5.09	43.59	40.86	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:35:25	117.25	117.56	119.78	5.06	43.02	40.45	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:34:25	117.16	118.89	119.75	5.06	43.46	40.61	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:33:25	117.02	117.47	119.78	5.06	43.23	40.44	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:32:25	117.25	117.50	119.83	5.09	43.44	40.95	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:31:25	117.20	117.52	119.78	5.06	43.11	40.68	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:30:25	117.14	117.41	119.75	5.19	43.77	40.94	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:29:25	117.22	118.84	119.81	5.19	44.41	41.89	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:28:25	116.98	117.52	119.77	5.28	45.25	42.54	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:27:25	116.92	117.28	119.77	5.19	44.10	41.73	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:26:25	116.97	117.23	119.77	5.25	44.74	42.03	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:25:25	116.95	117.31	119.78	5.19	44.21	41.47	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:24:25	117.02	118.50	119.73	5.19	44.30	41.66	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:23:25	116.94	117.31	119.80	5.25	44.77	42.17	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:22:25	117.06	117.61	119.72	5.25	45.29	42.15	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:21:25	117.11	117.45	119.77	5.22	44.84	41.83	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:20:25	117.05	117.39	119.80	5.25	45.22	41.89	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:19:25	117.02	118.61	119.80	5.16	44.17	41.30	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:18:25	117.00	117.28	119.80	5.19	44.13	41.64	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:17:25	117.03	117.30	119.75	5.25	44.87	42.33	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:16:25	117.06	117.31	119.78	5.22	44.70	42.13	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:15:25	116.97	118.55	119.78	5.22	44.60	41.91	60.00	100.00	55.09	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:14:25	116.88	117.22	119.78	5.06	42.93	40.49	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:13:25	116.97	117.36	119.78	5.28	44.73	42.03	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:12:25	117.02	117.34	119.83	5.19	43.92	41.38	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:11:25	116.97	117.23	119.75	5.19	44.22	41.41	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:10:25	116.94	118.50	119.80	5.19	44.19	41.85	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:09:25	116.86	117.28	119.81	5.19	44.11	41.73	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:08:25	116.89	117.20	119.75	5.28	45.09	42.37	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:07:25	116.84	117.30	119.73	5.16	44.01	41.71	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:06:25	116.86	117.22	119.80	5.16	43.70	41.56	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:05:25	116.78	118.67	119.80	5.25	44.70	41.68	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:04:25	118.17	118.61	119.75	2.72	22.05	22.20	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:03:25	118.16	118.67	119.80	2.75	21.37	22.11	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:02:25	117.98	118.52	119.77	2.81	22.47	22.28	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:01:25	115.78	118.42	119.77	2.91	23.47	23.35	60.00	100.00	55.09	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	20:00:25	113.86	118.25	119.81	5.28	44.64	42.43	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:59:25	113.86	116.98	119.80	5.22	44.16	41.79	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:58:25	113.06	116.95	119.80	5.38	46.03	43.24	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:57:25	116.33	117.08	119.84	5.31	45.14	42.28	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:56:25	116.89	117.17	119.86	4.88	41.73	39.21	60.00	100.00	55.09	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:55:25	116.84	118.45	119.77	5.00	42.95	40.41	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:54:25	116.88	117.14	119.75	5.00	43.07	40.15	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:53:25	116.84	117.16	119.80	5.03	43.13	39.92	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:52:25	116.83	117.17	119.81	5.00	43.27	40.32	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:51:25	116.91	117.17	119.78	5.00	43.20	40.04	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:50:25	116.97	118.59	119.75	4.94	42.48	39.96	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:49:25	116.88	117.09	119.83	5.09	43.67	40.66	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:48:25	116.80	117.19	119.77	5.13	43.97	40.57	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:47:25	116.92	117.20	119.83	5.09	43.46	40.62	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:46:25	116.95	117.31	119.83	5.03	43.15	40.54	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:45:25	116.55	118.53	119.80	4.97	42.28	39.80	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:44:25	116.78	117.14	119.77	5.00	43.14	39.97	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:43:25	116.77	117.08	119.78	5.09	43.52	40.46	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:42:25	116.81	117.16	119.83	5.06	43.52	40.50	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:41:25	116.95	118.64	119.81	5.06	42.89	39.87	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:40:25	117.00	117.39	119.83	4.53	38.44	37.00	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:39:25	116.83	117.22	119.75	5.13	44.00	41.11	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:38:25	116.83	117.19	119.81	4.97	42.56	39.88	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:37:25	116.80	117.16	119.80	5.00	43.09	40.05	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:36:25	116.72	118.42	119.75	5.00	42.66	39.93	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:35:25	116.69	116.94	119.75	5.03	43.46	39.84	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:34:25	116.64	116.92	119.81	5.19	44.14	41.57	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:33:25	116.67	116.92	119.77	5.13	44.10	41.10	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:32:25	116.61	116.83	119.81	5.06	43.09	40.89	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:31:25	116.69	118.33	119.80	5.16	44.10	41.30	60.00	100.00	55.09	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:30:25	116.66	116.94	119.78	5.19	44.33	41.58	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:29:25	116.66	116.91	119.77	5.06	43.23	40.90	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:28:25	116.72	116.95	119.77	5.22	44.58	41.66	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:27:25	116.66	116.98	119.80	5.19	44.38	41.36	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:26:25	116.64	118.30	119.77	5.22	44.63	41.86	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:25:25	116.69	116.91	119.78	5.13	43.59	41.37	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:24:25	116.66	116.92	119.77	5.19	44.71	41.68	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:23:25	116.50	116.86	119.77	5.22	44.70	41.76	60.00	100.00	55.09	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:22:25	116.53	116.95	119.86	5.38	46.09	42.58	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:21:25	116.39	118.19	119.75	5.28	45.02	42.01	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:20:25	116.42	116.69	119.81	5.31	45.48	42.59	60.00	100.00	55.00	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:19:25	116.34	116.64	119.73	5.41	45.74	43.15	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:18:25	116.36	116.64	119.72	5.34	45.80	42.64	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:17:24	116.44	118.06	119.75	5.31	45.51	42.37	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:16:24	116.48	116.72	119.75	5.19	44.35	41.86	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:15:24	116.58	116.80	119.77	5.44	46.46	43.43	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:14:24	116.58	116.78	119.75	5.28	45.21	42.29	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:13:24	116.44	116.84	119.81	5.28	45.14	42.48	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:12:24	116.50	118.09	119.80	5.31	45.50	42.48	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:11:24	116.44	116.89	119.81	5.25	45.05	42.40	60.00	100.00 55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:10:24	116.28	116.63	119.83	5.31	45.55	42.70	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:09:24	116.34	116.59	119.80	5.22	44.73	42.17	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:08:24	116.23	116.61	119.77	5.31	45.51	42.44	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:07:24	116.28	117.91	119.75	5.31	45.11	42.00	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:06:24	116.23	116.66	119.77	5.34	45.75	42.82	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:05:24	116.42	116.80	119.77	5.34	45.87	43.00	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:04:24	116.53	116.84	119.78	5.25	45.02	42.00	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:03:24	116.52	116.91	119.80	5.25	44.65	42.23	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:02:24	116.61	118.06	119.78	5.25	45.52	42.21	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:01:24	116.67	117.02	119.75	5.28	44.91	42.42	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	19:00:24	116.67	117.02	119.78	5.38	45.85	42.96	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:59:24	116.64	117.16	119.80	5.34	45.65	42.68	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:58:24	116.69	117.17	119.80	5.38	45.88	43.04	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:57:24	116.83	118.56	119.77	5.25	44.88	41.73	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:56:24	117.84	118.63	119.83	2.72	21.43	22.19	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:55:24	118.05	119.17	119.84	2.59	20.93	21.71	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:54:24	118.77	119.36	119.83	2.91	22.27	23.51	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:53:24	118.64	119.33	119.81	2.88	23.30	22.88	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:52:24	117.20	119.19	119.78	2.91	23.36	23.42	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:51:24	117.58	117.80	119.81	5.38	45.70	42.61	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:50:24	117.41	117.91	119.78	5.28	45.33	42.61	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:49:24	117.30	117.53	119.80	5.31	45.50	42.46	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:48:24	117.09	119.19	119.80	5.38	45.47	42.61	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:47:24	117.55	117.83	119.73	5.03	43.17	40.45	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:46:24	117.50	117.92	119.81	5.09	43.48	40.67	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:45:24	117.50	117.92	119.72	5.03	43.35	40.54	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:44:24	117.47	117.83	119.78	4.97	42.90	40.00	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:43:24	117.56	119.13	119.78	5.03	43.34	40.55	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:42:24	117.53	118.00	119.84	5.06	43.30	40.55	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:41:24	117.69	117.98	119.77	5.09	43.46	40.71	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:40:24	117.61	117.88	119.80	5.03	43.20	40.45	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:39:24	117.66	117.95	119.80	5.00	43.58	40.25	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:38:24	117.59	119.23	119.83	5.00	43.15	39.85	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:37:24	117.52	117.91	119.80	5.03	43.57	40.54	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:36:24	117.70	117.97	119.77	5.06	43.31	40.41	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:35:24	117.80	118.09	119.81	5.09	43.74	41.01	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:34:24	117.92	118.22	119.78	5.06	43.66	40.31	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:33:24	116.97	119.48	119.77	5.06	43.60	40.57	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:32:24	116.98	117.38	119.80	5.06	43.81	40.75	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:31:24	117.08	117.48	119.77	5.13	43.83	40.94	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:30:24	117.09	117.38	119.88	5.13	43.88	41.06	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:29:24	117.11	118.39	119.83	5.06	43.60	40.56	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:28:24	116.97	118.61	119.78	3.38	28.28	25.85	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:27:24	117.00	117.34	119.80	5.34	45.47	42.21	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:26:24	117.03	117.34	119.78	5.22	44.70	41.79	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:25:24	117.11	117.41	119.81	5.19	44.56	41.46	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:24:24	117.19	118.78	119.80	5.13	44.11	41.35	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:23:24	117.05	117.41	119.77	5.19	44.45	41.45	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:22:24	117.11	117.45	119.81	5.22	44.84	41.44	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:21:24	117.13	117.47	119.73	5.13	44.11	41.19	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:20:24	117.16	117.52	119.81	5.16	44.05	41.31	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:19:24	117.33	119.00	119.75	5.19	44.53	41.57	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:18:24	117.23	117.55	119.81	5.28	45.21	42.20	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:17:24	117.30	117.67	119.77	5.25	44.93	41.89	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:16:24	117.31	117.58	119.81	5.38	46.04	43.01	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:15:24	117.30	117.66	119.83	5.34	45.70	42.88	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:14:24	117.36	118.98	119.80	5.34	45.50	42.79	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:13:24	117.30	117.86	119.78	5.34	45.75	42.97	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:12:24	117.50	117.88	119.83	5.41	46.44	43.23	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:11:24	117.48	117.97	119.78	5.38	45.73	43.25	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:10:24	117.75	118.06	119.75	5.31	45.41	42.76	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:09:24	117.77	119.41	119.80	5.34	45.26	42.37	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:08:24	117.47	118.08	119.80	5.22	44.72	42.50	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:07:24	117.34	117.59	119.81	5.38	46.23	43.21	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:06:24	117.45	117.73	119.72	5.31	45.18	42.66	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:05:24	117.55	119.06	119.75	5.31	45.42	42.71	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:04:23	117.48	117.78	119.80	5.38	46.18	43.13	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:03:23	117.36	117.75	119.75	5.38	45.98	42.82	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:02:23	117.47	117.78	119.83	5.34	45.46	42.80	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:01:23	117.28	117.69	119.77	5.31	45.20	42.27	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	18:00:23	117.33	118.89	119.81	5.31	45.70	42.76	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:59:23	117.28	117.64	119.80	5.41	45.95	42.93	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:58:23	117.41	117.69	119.78	5.38	46.10	43.18	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:57:23	117.38	117.78	119.78	5.38	45.99	43.00	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:56:23	117.20	117.63	119.81	5.34	45.69	42.49	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:55:23	117.42	119.06	119.77	5.28	45.30	42.70	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:54:23	117.45	118.19	119.78	5.28	45.14	42.23	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:53:23	117.52	117.91	119.78	5.34	45.50	42.71	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:52:23	117.63	118.08	119.83	5.34	45.57	42.81	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:51:23	117.33	117.88	119.78	5.31	45.46	42.52	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:50:23	117.34	119.53	119.77	5.53	47.08	43.32	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:49:23	118.27	119.53	119.83	2.75	21.94	22.06	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:48:23	118.52	119.41	119.81	2.72	21.84	22.49	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:47:23	117.97	119.52	119.75	3.84	31.90	32.68	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:46:23	117.59	118.78	119.81	3.75	30.68	30.20	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:45:23	117.44	117.80	119.80	5.31	45.52	42.66	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:44:23	117.50	117.78	119.81	5.28	45.09	42.25	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:43:23	117.34	119.08	119.77	5.28	44.98	42.59	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:42:23	117.34	117.81	119.73	5.28	45.57	42.85	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:41:23	117.53	117.83	119.72	5.31	45.34	42.97	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:40:23	117.31	117.77	119.73	5.41	46.45	43.43	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:39:23	117.30	117.61	119.83	5.38	45.86	43.16	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:38:23	117.05	118.80	119.75	5.34	45.64	42.62	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:37:23	116.94	117.23	119.78	5.41	46.27	42.79	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:36:23	116.88	117.22	119.86	5.38	46.28	43.04	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:35:23	116.91	117.30	119.81	5.44	46.56	43.40	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:34:23	116.89	117.22	119.81	5.28	45.26	42.65	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:33:23	116.75	118.50	119.72	5.28	45.14	42.41	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:32:23	116.73	117.11	119.78	5.41	46.32	43.12	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:31:23	116.78	117.13	119.83	5.34	45.75	43.16	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:30:23	116.80	117.13	119.81	5.31	45.57	42.64	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:29:23	116.66	118.67	119.80	5.31	45.13	42.44	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:28:23	118.17	118.88	119.80	3.41	27.73	26.68	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:27:23	117.05	118.81	119.78	2.81	22.64	23.11	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:26:23	116.77	118.41	119.75	5.31	45.36	42.65	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:25:23	116.70	117.42	119.80	5.31	45.61	42.92	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:24:23	117.00	117.64	119.81	5.06	43.34	40.40	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:23:23	117.09	117.44	119.81	5.16	44.02	41.06	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:22:23	117.05	117.52	119.80	5.13	44.19	40.97	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:21:23	117.20	118.89	119.80	5.03	43.56	40.36	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:20:23	117.05	117.70	119.78	5.06	43.49	40.48	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:19:23	117.14	117.47	119.81	5.06	43.39	40.70	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:18:23	117.27	117.66	119.80	5.09	43.63	40.64	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:17:23	117.28	118.98	119.86	5.06	43.46	40.32	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:16:23	117.02	117.42	119.77	5.06	43.31	40.19	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:15:23	117.02	117.36	119.83	5.13	43.91	40.93	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:14:23	117.11	117.42	119.77	5.00	43.19	40.32	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:13:23	117.13	117.36	119.78	5.00	43.52	40.31	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:12:23	117.14	118.70	119.77	5.03	43.45	40.33	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:11:23	117.06	117.31	119.81	5.00	43.29	40.11	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:10:23	116.98	117.27	119.77	5.09	43.66	40.93	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:09:23	116.98	117.25	119.80	5.06	43.36	40.71	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:08:23	116.92	117.30	119.80	5.03	43.12	40.47	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:07:23	116.97	118.59	119.81	5.09	44.05	40.94	60.00	100.00	55.09	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:06:23	116.94	117.30	119.69	5.00	42.97	40.04	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:05:23	116.84	117.23	119.84	5.03	43.32	40.34	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:04:23	115.86	117.30	119.83	5.09	44.23	41.08	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:03:23	116.80	117.27	119.86	5.06	43.70	40.57	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:02:23	116.69	118.47	119.81	5.13	44.01	41.46	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:01:23	116.58	117.05	119.75	5.22	44.68	41.88	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	17:00:23	116.64	117.09	119.75	5.25	45.06	41.85	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:59:23	116.75	117.08	119.78	5.22	44.80	42.01	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:58:23	116.86	117.23	119.80	5.19	44.60	41.68	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:57:23	117.00	118.63	119.81	5.16	44.34	41.31	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:56:23	117.19	117.44	119.83	5.22	44.88	41.90	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:55:23	117.19	117.50	119.80	5.19	44.58	41.83	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:54:23	117.23	117.63	119.78	5.19	44.41	41.70	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:53:23	117.20	118.95	119.78	5.16	44.31	41.62	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:52:23	117.34	117.64	119.78	5.19	44.04	41.02	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:51:23	117.39	117.63	119.83	5.25	45.13	42.17	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:50:23	117.28	117.66	119.75	5.25	44.86	42.23	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:49:23	117.33	117.63	119.77	5.25	44.74	42.39	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:48:23	117.31	118.95	119.75	5.31	45.26	42.70	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:47:23	117.42	117.63	119.81	5.38	45.93	43.25	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:46:23	117.36	117.69	119.83	5.34	45.43	42.95	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:45:23	117.39	117.75	119.73	5.34	45.69	42.75	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:44:23	117.61	117.94	119.77	5.34	45.68	42.66	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:43:23	117.56	119.19	119.77	5.19	44.61	42.21	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:42:23	117.31	117.86	119.75	5.41	46.26	43.13	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:41:23	117.34	117.63	119.80	5.22	44.14	42.12	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:40:23	117.34	117.81	119.81	5.38	46.24	43.33	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:39:23	117.30	117.72	119.77	5.38	45.57	42.18	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:38:23	117.45	118.97	119.86	5.28	45.34	42.66	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:37:22	117.53	117.88	119.77	5.25	45.08	42.14	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:36:22	117.45	117.86	119.83	5.38	45.79	42.94 60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:35:22	117.34	117.77	119.80	5.31	45.55	42.94	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:34:22	117.38	117.81	119.86	5.25	44.84	42.46	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:33:22	117.64	119.20	119.77	5.19	44.19	41.50	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:32:22	117.64	117.95	119.78	5.41	46.26	43.57	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:31:22	117.58	117.95	119.81	5.31	45.45	42.42	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:30:22	117.59	117.84	119.81	5.34	45.41	42.67	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:29:22	117.50	118.91	119.80	5.22	44.71	41.95	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:28:22	117.47	117.75	119.81	5.31	45.35	42.38	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:27:22	117.47	117.69	119.78	5.34	45.67	42.71	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:26:22	117.44	117.64	119.84	5.22	44.69	42.17	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:25:22	117.31	117.78	119.83	5.16	44.55	41.79	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:24:22	117.44	119.44	119.80	5.28	45.32	42.39	60.00	100.00	55.03	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:23:22	117.61	119.44	119.84	2.94	24.24	23.51	60.00	100.00	55.09	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:22:22	118.77	119.20	119.77	3.09	25.13	24.13	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 03/10/2020	16:21:22	118.80	119.31	119.77	3.16	24.57	24.87	60.00	100.00	55.06	+26.00
> 
> All this mumbo jumo equates to 5.44Ax119.8V=651.1722 watts from UPS output, better than any of the cheap power plug ins you will ever find. This is total watts including all pumps so you will see it go up and down, sample is peak.
> 
> 
> IMO this is an excellent performing block on HEDT 9940X and would not hesitate a recommendation. Test results showed a max temp 3C difference from all fans and pumps at 100% to 75% fans and single D5 at 50%.


Bro, use Spoilers to avoid the wall of text. 

Wait, did i just assume your gender? :/


----------



## JustinThyme

KedarWolf said:


> Bro, use Spoilers to avoid the wall of text.
> 
> Wait, did i just assume your gender? :/


Then you use have to make another click to see it, saving your finger.....


Just for you I used a spoiler on the UPS logs...... Have some chocolate.


Its Ok to assume gender. Not politically correct in the least you either have peas and a carrot or you dont. If you are confused, look down and that clears it up. If you have peas and a carrot and like to wear a dress......well that's your business but it doesn't change whats hanging or not hanging.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Fyi any info device that includes any number from wall pull its utterly useless for testing actual heat/watt dissipations..

You want the approximate number after wall/cables/batterys/psu conversion/more cables/vrms to actual socket pull which is looking at the number like around 320w-350w maybe 375w tops....as a ballpark as actual heat coming out of that cpu at current settings to dissipate.. The 1.9vin dont help either in the equation just adds more watts on the pull xD. Also mobo vrms are another factor... Thats why its important to show the socket pull of the cpu not the whole thing.. As this is what the cpu block is trying to cool .

My 2 cents xD


----------



## gupsterg

zGunBLADEz said:


> I don't know how they did the amd one but this is the Intel version of it.. The jet plate its seperate and it fits in there xD
> 
> again, its nice for the price but the thing aint a few degrees off from the optimus on my 7980xe.. im telling you right now lol
> 
> heres with the byski block
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/28352308-post2177.html
> 
> and heres one right away on the v2 with even more overclock/voltage added after i swapped blocks at the same settings/benchmark
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/28352374-post2180.html


I use Bykski A-Ryzen-ThV2-X, has ample fin coverage for Ryzen/Threadripper, see second spoiler in this post. You'll see in HardOCP breakdown of Bykski A-Ryzen-Th-X it's similar to Intel version for your observation.



Spoiler



https://youtu.be/dYdJXsNqewI?t=119



Later in the thread is an EK Supremacy Evo, which had ample coverage as well, see spoiler in this post.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

I got this yesterday in the mail.... First impressions are optimus is really reading our feedback and is been taking into consideration here... They aint playing for what i got... Funny thing of everything else i notice that change right away when i opened the package.... The manual/instructions were mentioned here, the thermal paste as well and the new mountings also included... Now you get the no spring mounting and kingpin thermal paste to go with.. Theres nothing else more satisfying when a company take their time and read feedback and what not and take their customers seriously and you can prove that to top it off. Even so knowing how i am on my critics and standing still behind their product thats dedication xD...

Other than that the piece i got is if im not mistaken the ultra flat version of it on copper instead of nickel which i welcome even more... I have nicEKl nightmares lol...

Still iffy about the "phillips" screws which i hope optimus finally opt out for better type of screw or allen screws... The finish of the block itself cant say nothing as probably is a demo block which in this case i cannot say nothing about it other than whats the performance of it when i finally test it. But it aint looking bad no scratches no odd marks no nothing looks brand new..


----------



## zGunBLADEz

gupsterg said:


> I use Bykski A-Ryzen-ThV2-X, has ample fin coverage for Ryzen/Threadripper, see second spoiler in this post. You'll see in HardOCP breakdown of Bykski A-Ryzen-Th-X it's similar to Intel version for your observation.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/dYdJXsNqewI?t=119
> 
> 
> 
> Later in the thread is an EK Supremacy Evo, which had ample coverage as well, see spoiler in this post.


Have the bykski and the ek evo all nickel which i flat lapped still needs some work on him tho and removed the nickel from the fins themselves it is my worst performer between my top blocks Optimus V2 / Koolance 380 then 3rd place the ek evo one.. byski would be the 4th if you want to add it there on a 7980xe.

The block its ok on up to the 300w heat output both of them pass the 350w and upward they crap out they dont hold it... and the byski block have a nice contact the block gets glued to the ihs literally i have to jank it out...

look at the difference on the v2 vs the byski with more volts its abysmal at that point. thats not even margin of error at this point...
test was back to back not even 1hr between mounts


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> I got this yesterday in the mail.... First impressions are optimus is really reading our feedback and is been taking into consideration here... They aint playing for what i got... Funny thing of everything else i notice that change right away when i opened the package.... The manual/instructions were mentioned here, the thermal paste as well and the new mountings also included... Now you get the no spring mounting and kingpin thermal paste to go with.. Theres nothing else more satisfying when a company take their time and read feedback and what not and take their customers seriously and you can prove that to top it off. Even so knowing how i am on my critics and standing still behind their product thats dedication xD...
> 
> Other than that the piece i got is if im not mistaken the ultra flat version of it on copper instead of nickel which i welcome even more... I have nicEKl nightmares lol...
> 
> Still iffy about the "phillips" screws which i hope optimus finally opt out for better type of screw or allen screws... The finish of the block itself cant say nothing as probably is a demo block which in this case i cannot say nothing about it other than whats the performance of it when i finally test it. But it aint looking bad no scratches no odd marks no nothing looks brand new..


Yeah they dont like me I blew the wad on their TOL and cant even get the springless mounting kit. Ive sent dimensions and drawings to a friend who machines parts for a living and he will plug them into his machine when He gets a chance and Ill still get the 4 studs and thumbnuts faster. Last I heard on 2/16 via PM was "We're getting ones nickel plated right now to match the sig, will send out when done!" Plating process must take awhile........Can probably go to home depot and grab the hardware and a new diamond dust cutter and measure out with a set of electronic calipers and make my own. If the magnitude goes on and beats out the Sig V2 its not coming back off and the Sig V2 will join some other shelved items.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

started at 1.3v 49x -1avx static ambient 72f 
package power avg was 450w (as heat) sustained load, thats not even a realistic scenario (like actual people running those voltages on sustained loads) in 99% of overclocks on this 18 core cpus for whoever asks and wonders for that matters...


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Bought a V2 nickel and copper cold plate a month ago for $29 and $44 respectively. Went to see the site just looking around, notice they jumped up in price to $49 and $64. Hopefully the blocks stay the same price if not lower.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah they dont like me I blew the wad on their TOL and cant even get the springless mounting kit. Ive sent dimensions and drawings to a friend who machines parts for a living and he will plug them into his machine when He gets a chance and Ill still get the 4 studs and thumbnuts faster. Last I heard on 2/16 via PM was "We're getting ones nickel plated right now to match the sig, will send out when done!" Plating process must take awhile........Can probably go to home depot and grab the hardware and a new diamond dust cutter and measure out with a set of electronic calipers and make my own. If the magnitude goes on and beats out the Sig V2 its not coming back off and the Sig V2 will join some other shelved items.


My nickle plated ones went out last Wednesday, not sure why you're still waiting they should of contacted you by now


----------



## JustinThyme

Yeah me either.


----------



## ThrashZone

MrTOOSHORT said:


> Bought a V2 nickel and copper cold plate a month ago for $29 and $44 respectively. Went to see the site just looking around, notice they jumped up in price to $49 and $64. Hopefully the blocks stay the same price if not lower.


Hi,
Just got another copper cold plate last week for 30.us so that is a new thing 
Guess since ek slammed the magnitude down for 250-300.us optimus might be testing the market some more seeing even ek says these magnitudes are moving at their prices :/


----------



## KedarWolf

Who is an Optimus rep for the company here?

I chose 1 day UPS shipping, just over $41 USD for shipping alone. :h34r-smi

And yes, I know it won't be until Monday I get it earliest. 

https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-amd?variant=16111866085425

Foundation CPU Block - AMD
Black Acetal + Black Aluminum / Pro-XE Nickel


----------



## JustinThyme

KedarWolf said:


> Who is an Optimus rep for the company here?
> 
> I want to know and ask if there would be any delays in shipping on an order from the website do to the Coronavirus?


 @ Optimus WC is the member here. 
Yes they pop in from time to time but best contact is via the contact us on their website. I got ahold of them yesterday about my mounting kit and he apologized and had overlooked it. Had the shipping address Already and confirmed it and said they will go out post haste. Corona Virus wont slow it down so long as it doesn't shut down their facility. Shipping channels haven't been affected. So long as what you order is in stock They usually arrive pretty fast. I just used the standard USPS priority and it was in my hands 3 days later. They are in what I consider a heavy lockdown shot of national guard where I am with any public meeting places with a capacity of over 250 ordered closed and have shut down the public schools doing online assignments while this thing runs its course. My wife got sent home from work because she is in close contact with out son who was in a school of 4K kids with two symptomatic kids that all started with two making a road trip carrying the virus with them from Boston to a private party in Princeton. Otherwise we may not have had anything locally. Like 23 cases total in NJ. One death but that person was 70 with Diabetes hypertension and what really kicked it was a wicked case of emphysema so he was on oxygen already.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah they dont like me I blew the wad on their TOL and cant even get the springless mounting kit. Ive sent dimensions and drawings to a friend who machines parts for a living and he will plug them into his machine when He gets a chance and Ill still get the 4 studs and thumbnuts faster. Last I heard on 2/16 via PM was "We're getting ones nickel plated right now to match the sig, will send out when done!" Plating process must take awhile........Can probably go to home depot and grab the hardware and a new diamond dust cutter and measure out with a set of electronic calipers and make my own. If the magnitude goes on and beats out the Sig V2 its not coming back off and the Sig V2 will join some other shelved items.


i have the old mount still, this mount passed to be my favorite of all the mounts i have around its spot on every time on the mountings with no hassle.. why you dont cut a few notch down the spring for the time been? thats what im going to do eventually on that extra set.. you can still use the regular mount with no springs it does the same function...

Btw. the new mount or the old will scratch/ring out the corners on the block for those picky eaters out there lol


Oh btw.. im not too kind on the new mounts for 11xx i prefer the support of the backplate from before.. at least for intel amd has a backplate by default.. intel doesnt have one other than the retention bracket one which is not used for cooler mountings / cpu block.. Last thing i want is to jank the whole block with the screw thru the mobo clean :/ specially if the block gets good contact from the block and ihs it would get glued.. Tip for those users with glued blocks.. try plying up just one corner {grab one of the legs on the cpu block and try to raise it first till it gets loose} (instead of grabbing the block in a palm grab or with all fingers grab) and pull upwards lol very helpful specially on amd XD


----------



## ThrashZone

KedarWolf said:


> Who is an Optimus rep for the company here?
> 
> I chose 1 day UPS shipping, just over $41 USD for shipping alone. :h34r-smi
> 
> And yes, I know it won't be until Monday I get it earliest.
> 
> https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-amd?variant=16111866085425
> 
> Foundation CPU Block - AMD
> Black Acetal + Black Aluminum / Pro-XE Nickel
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Hi,
You can also try [email protected]
Goes to the user here on ocn @OptimusWC


----------



## sakete

Optimus really needs to add to their website whether stuff is in stock and when it will ship. Now it's a wild guess as to when you'll receive something when you place an order. And with this Corona virus, who knows how that will start to disrupt shipping carriers.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep corona will eventually effect production and shipping probably shipping first.


----------



## tistou77

sakete said:


> Optimus really needs to add to their website whether stuff is in stock and when it will ship. Now it's a wild guess as to when you'll receive something when you place an order. And with this Corona virus, who knows how that will start to disrupt shipping carriers.


This is the case in Europe with 90% of web shops, it is indicated if it is available, and the estimated delivery date according to the carrier


----------



## ThrashZone

tistou77 said:


> This is the case in Europe with 90% of web shops, it is indicated if it is available, and the estimated delivery date according to the carrier


Hi,
Watercool says that stuff but makes blocks as ordered so their estimates are just a guess.


----------



## criskoe

sakete said:


> Optimus really needs to add to their website whether stuff is in stock and when it will ship. Now it's a wild guess as to when you'll receive something when you place an order. And with this Corona virus, who knows how that will start to disrupt shipping carriers.


Guaranteeing carriers transit times is one thing that cant always be accurate and thats understandable and ok. To many variables in that. But accurate stock count on the webstore in my opinion is a basic standard feature that every store should have. Not having it imo is like a sneaky pre/backorder game. Customers dont like it. Well I as a customer dont like it. After it happens once to me from any online store im forever hesitant to buy stuff from them again.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Fedex is horribly wrong all the time 
DSL is pretty darn accurate.
UPS is pretty accurate
Even USPS is more accurate than Fedex.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ermm remember guys i bought mine from ppcs and it was in stock according to the site. XD


----------



## sakete

zGunBLADEz said:


> ermm remember guys i bought mine from ppcs and it was in stock according to the site. XD


PPCS didn't have the one I wanted in stock (silver mounting plate, nickel cold plate and acrylic top). But maybe I should just get the black with acetal and copper, as my case is under my desk anyway and I will not be looking at it.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> PPCS didn't have the one I wanted in stock (silver mounting plate, nickel cold plate and acrylic top). But maybe I should just get the black with acetal and copper, as my case is under my desk anyway and I will not be looking at it.


Hi,
Acetal is very much like the plexi so yeah that would be a good one too 
Foundation plexi copper is awesome for the money looking pretty close if not a little better than ek magnitude nickle


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Acetal is very much like the plexi so yeah that would be a good one too
> 
> Foundation plexi copper is awesome for the money looking pretty close if not a little better than ek magnitude nickle


Yeah, but silver + nickel + acrylic is prettier.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

sakete said:


> PPCS didn't have the one I wanted in stock (silver mounting plate, nickel cold plate and acrylic top). But maybe I should just get the black with acetal and copper, as my case is under my desk anyway and I will not be looking at it.


i bought "the last one" then i got an email later they run out of them lol but ppcs resolved the problem the same week so i got no more complaints again i even congrats them for the quick resolve.. but maybe i got lucky..


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> Yeah, but silver + nickel + acrylic is prettier.


Hi,
You referring to cold plate as silver ?
Copper cold plate unless you plan to use liquid metal is better than nickle cold plate.

Face well as you said under your desk


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> You referring to cold plate as silver ?
> 
> Copper cold plate unless you plan to use liquid metal is better than nickle cold plate.
> 
> 
> 
> Face well as you said under your desk


No I mean the silver mounting plate with nickel cold plate and acrylic top.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> No I mean the silver mounting plate with nickel cold plate and acrylic top.


Hi,
Okay yeah Justin has been messing with the nickle cold plate so it looks like it's doing pretty well too 
But just my testing sigV2 is a better block if it fits your chips well 
Foundation I don't think it really matters on the top part water flow is all the same 
Technically nickle top may be a hair cooler seeing it might act as a sort of heatsink being metal and not a type of plexi glass...


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Okay yeah Justin has been messing with the nickle cold plate so it looks like it's doing pretty well too
> 
> But just my testing sigV2 is a better block if it fits your chips well
> 
> Foundation I don't think it really matters on the top part water flow is all the same
> 
> Technically nickle top may be a hair cooler seeing it might act as a sort of heatsink being metal and not a type of plexi glass...


There is no sig for AM4 (I have Ryzen 3900x chip).


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> There is no sig for AM4 (I have Ryzen 3900x chip).


Hi,
There is it's just pre-order ultimate amd4 .... 200.us last I noticed with no release date.
Oops 
https://optimuspc.com/products/absolute-cpu-block-threadripper-3


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> There is it's just pre-order ultimate amd4 .... 300.us last I noticed with no release date.


Pre-order, so release date = never. No thanks.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah 200.us 
https://optimuspc.com/products/absolute-cpu-block-threadripper-3

Awesome block I'm still 6 months from a amd build anyway so it's on my radar


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Yeah 200.us
> 
> https://optimuspc.com/products/absolute-cpu-block-threadripper-3


That's for threadripper, which is a different socket/mount than AM4. For AM4 I think they only have foundation.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> That's for threadripper, which is a different socket/mount than AM4. For AM4 I think they only have foundation.


Hi,
So it would only be for 3960x and up ?
Not for 3950x ?


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> So it would only be for 3960x and up ?
> 
> Not for 3950x ?


I believe so yes. Threadripper uses a different socket and has a larger IHS.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

the problem optimus is facing is the came out as small company and i bet you the demand is higher than what they expected.. so thats that..

but the block do perform and is worth every penny and im the type of person that really look at the value of things before EVERYTHING else... i would be having a hissy fit as well lol


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> I believe so yes. Threadripper uses a different socket and has a larger IHS.


Hi,
Good to know I very well could of messed up seeing 3960x price jump is double the 3950x and would be up the creek if did the 3950x 
Thanks for that :thumb:


----------



## TK421

Can be used to improve the am4 block?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Good to know I very well could of messed up seeing 3960x price jump is double the 3950x and would be up the creek if did the 3950x
> Thanks for that :thumb:


wait you thinking in swapping your 14c for a 3950x? dont you think the next logical step up at this point is a 24 tr3? that was my issue on the 3950x price i cannot comprehend the purchase when you see around bunch of 7xxx series dirt cheap if you dig well right now.. in that perspective in my case.. the 3950x its no bueno in my book then i face a similar issue on tr24 price which will be up to $2k easy with mobo included


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> wait you thinking in swapping your 14c for a 3950x? dont you think the next logical step up at this point is a 24 tr3? that was my issue on the 3950x price i cannot comprehend the purchase when you see around bunch of 7xxx series dirt cheap if you dig well right now.. in that perspective in my case.. the 3950x its no bueno in my book then i face a similar issue on tr24 price which will be up to $2k easy with mobo included


Hi,
If the price goes down on the 24 core 3960x yeah but 1400 verses 700 is a steep hill for 8 more cores.
I was just tinkering with the amd stuff but indeed 24 core was my preference not 16 cores.

At that I'd likely just jump on 10980xe for 1k.us I already have another board doing nothing.


----------



## sakete

So if I were to get a copper cold plate, instead of nickel, copper can start to look kinda gross (oxidization), but it otherwise will not leave gunk in the loop right? It's purely cosmetic? As PPCS does have black mount + copper plate + acetal cover in stock.


----------



## criskoe

sakete said:


> So if I were to get a copper cold plate, instead of nickel, copper can start to look kinda gross (oxidization), but it otherwise will not leave gunk in the loop right? It's purely cosmetic? As PPCS does have black mount + copper plate + acetal cover in stock.




I think you should wait to get what you initially wanted. Unless you desperately need one now. I personally like the look of a black block myself. And seen as you cant see inside it wont matter that the copper wont stay pretty forever. And if im not mistaken from what these guys have been saying. Copper cold plate gives the best performance. . So theres that.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> So if I were to get a copper cold plate, instead of nickel, copper can start to look kinda gross (oxidization), but it otherwise will not leave gunk in the loop right? It's purely cosmetic? As PPCS does have black mount + copper plate + acetal cover in stock.


Copper cold plate will never see light if you use black acetal 
Light turns copper a little darker is all 

Air hitting wet copper and dry copper causes copper to get funky look at any copper roof outside.

Always wet copper nothing really bad happens to copper unless bad fluids/ adding aluminum same stuff that kills nickle plating will usually kill copper too
Drinking water is usually in copper pipes inside homes and outside to the water meter so that should give you an idea of how good copper is


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> So if I were to get a copper cold plate, instead of nickel, copper can start to look kinda gross (oxidization), but it otherwise will not leave gunk in the loop right? * It's purely cosmetic?* As PPCS does have black mount + copper plate + acetal cover in stock.


Hi,
Yes


----------



## KedarWolf

KedarWolf said:


> Who is an Optimus rep for the company here?
> 
> I chose 1 day UPS shipping, just over $41 USD for shipping alone.
> 
> And yes, I know it won't be until Monday I get it earliest.
> 
> https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-amd?variant=16111866085425
> 
> Foundation CPU Block - AMD
> Black Acetal + Black Aluminum / Pro-XE Nickel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]



My order for my AMD Foundation, at 3 a.m. this morning EST, one day UPS, was saying 'Unfulfilled' I contacted them through their website, they say they are shipping Monday and are refunding the $42 shipping!! 

They are awesome.


----------



## sakete

KedarWolf said:


> My order for my AMD Foundation, at 3 a.m. this morning EST, one day UPS, was saying 'Unfulfilled' I contacted them through their website, they say they are shipping Monday and are refunding the $42 shipping!!
> 
> They are awesome.


Which foundation block did you order? They told me mid next week is when it would ship at the earliest. But since I'm ordering a whole slew of parts at PPCS here soon (once their St. Patty day promotion goes live), I might as well order the block there as well and get a small discount on it + free shipping. I don't care *that* much about the looks of it.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, yeah, turns out people are doing more builds now that they're working from home. So the only Corona issues facing us are an unexpected increase in orders  Well, until someone gets sick. 

For products, if something goes out of stock, it'll be back in stock shortly. It's hard for us to do live quantity updating at the moment because as soon as blocks are made, they're shipped. So black bracket Foundations are coming monday, the nickel cold plates typically take an extra week when we go out of stock, etc. 

And Threadripper is being made right now, it's always a balance making new product while fulfilling current orders, but we're doing our best


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, yeah, turns out people are doing more builds now that they're working from home. So the only Corona issues facing us are an unexpected increase in orders  Well, until someone gets sick.
> 
> For products, if something goes out of stock, it'll be back in stock shortly. It's hard for us to do live quantity updating at the moment because as soon as blocks are made, they're shipped. So black bracket Foundations are coming monday, the nickel cold plates typically take an extra week when we go out of stock, etc.
> 
> And Threadripper is being made right now, it's always a balance making new product while fulfilling current orders, but we're doing our best


Hi,
Yeah we hope only the nasty corona beer is an issue for people but you never know 

On another note magnitude is not looking better than previous foundation tests atm 
Going to retest it later I'm leak testing sigV2 with some thermal grizzly hydronaut (ek sent) next maybe tonight I'll finish with it 
New ambient messes everything up now 78f degrees instead of 76f 

Should finish will all testing this weekend Saturday night or Sunday lunch


----------



## KedarWolf

sakete said:


> Which foundation block did you order? They told me mid next week is when it would ship at the earliest. But since I'm ordering a whole slew of parts at PPCS here soon (once their St. Patty day promotion goes live), I might as well order the block there as well and get a small discount on it + free shipping. I don't care *that* much about the looks of it.


https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-amd?variant=16111866085425

I chose one day UPS.

Foundation CPU Block - AMD
Black Acetal + Black Aluminum / Pro-XE Nickel










Edit: But if you order today and they ship on Monday, you won't get free shipping.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Dang man how big is your screen


----------



## ThrashZone

KedarWolf said:


> https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-amd?variant=16111866085425
> 
> I chose one day UPS.
> 
> Foundation CPU Block - AMD
> Black Acetal + Black Aluminum / Pro-XE Nickel
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Edit: But if you order today and they ship on Monday, you won't get free shipping. ][/QUOTE]


Hi,
Something for you amd guys 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=632&v=JlJDv68fEcM&feature=emb_logo


----------



## 98S4

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, yeah, turns out people are doing more builds now that they're working from home. So the only Corona issues facing us are an unexpected increase in orders  Well, until someone gets sick.
> 
> For products, if something goes out of stock, it'll be back in stock shortly. It's hard for us to do live quantity updating at the moment because as soon as blocks are made, they're shipped. So black bracket Foundations are coming monday, the nickel cold plates typically take an extra week when we go out of stock, etc.
> 
> And Threadripper is being made right now, it's always a balance making new product while fulfilling current orders, but we're doing our best


How about an update on GPU blocks, since asking by email doesn't get a response apparently. Last update on 2/22 said 3 weeks at the soonest. Tomorrow is 3 weeks, can we get a follow up? I have an entire build ready to go just waiting on this block.


----------



## skupples

zGunBLADEz said:


> actually the trick to the thing is more micro fins less metal on the plate thickness of the fin/plate of all my 3 top performers the optimus is the less metal/plate but more microfins........
> 
> Well thats the case koolance 380 still doing good after all this years... but the optimus is something i havent seen in a block so far... You need to actually hold the thing in your hands so you see it for yourself after that all other blocks looks like they are just transformer toys no pun intended..


hey man, the kids are where the money's at. we all know that, and we all know companies dream of the mainstream (child access) success EK has garnered in the last few years.  

still, modular fin section is weird. i don't like it. 



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah if you ever get a sigV2 flat you'll be all set.


yeah my optiblock is coming. Just not while I'm hiding out on 115x. It'll be driving my 2021 AMD overhaul. (not sure i've got the ballz for a full AMD rig. AMD chip, NV GPU is likely.)

k, serious business - Home World 2, or Endless Space 2 (haven't played ES2)


----------



## Jpmboy

skupples said:


> *hey man, the kids are where the money's at.* we all know that, and we all know companies dream of the mainstream (child access) success EK has garnered in the last few years.
> still, modular fin section is weird. i don't like it.
> yeah my optiblock is coming. Just not while I'm hiding out on 115x. It'll be driving my 2021 AMD overhaul. (not sure i've got the ballz for a full AMD rig. AMD chip, NV GPU is likely.)
> k, serious business - Home World 2, or Endless Space 2 (haven't played ES2)


is that were yours is too? cause I know mine is.


----------



## skupples

I haven't cranked any out yet. God took care of one a few years back, which caused serious introspection, and re-adjustment of life goals & trajectory. 

now i'm sitting here, being like "buy low, sell high" tossed some stacks at a few picks last night, but really wanna get down n dirty this week before it all rebounds and then some. Would'a gone harder, but didn't know trump was having a presser today.

I've had my head so deep in the sand that I didn't realize trump pressers basically = money, every time.

i know I seem like a boomer, but i'm just a 33 year old Floridian germanic Jew.


----------



## Jpmboy

skupples said:


> I haven't cranked any out yet. God took care of one a few years back, which caused serious introspection, and re-adjustment of life goals & trajectory.
> 
> n*ow i'm sitting here, being like "buy low, sell high" tossed some stacks at a few picks last night, but really wanna get down n dirty this week before it all rebounds and then some*. Would'a gone harder, but didn't know trump was having a presser today.
> 
> I've had my head so deep in the sand that I didn't realize trump pressers basically = money, every time.
> 
> i know I seem like a boomer, but i'm just a 33 year old Floridian germanic Jew.


Some really smart buys out there for the last few days, but the window will close soon. Short squeeze today.


----------



## skupples

yeah, i suspect next week is rebound week, at least for what I watch. I've been tracking for about 6 months now, & my predictions are too accurate to not play ball at this point. 

long holds, mostly.


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> yeah, i suspect next week is rebound week, at least for what I watch. I've been tracking for about 6 months now, & my predictions are too accurate to not play ball at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> long holds, mostly.


Yeah, I really wanted to move some cash into the market yesterday. But it was sitting at another bank and only got around to moving it to my broker today, and markets already rebounded 10%.

But I think it's a dead cat bounce and the ride isn't over yet, though it may not be as extreme and panicky (but who knows). We're either way headed for a recession, and it would have happened with or without this pandemic, it's just accelerating things. Things have been rumbling in the bond markets for months now and the Fed already had to intervene there once (repo rate hit 10% a few months ago).


----------



## skupples

yeah, the correction was coming.

hoping a new baseline has been set, but more wiggle is always possible. n i'm also just a scrub.

i did get rich playing stock market tracking games as a kid though  

i'm just now coming into the money to attempt to follow thru is all.


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> yeah, the correction was coming.


It's a bear market now.


----------



## JustinThyme

My market at this point is played smart. I double my money, that’s right 100% gain out of the door on 401K match. All low yield safe money market accounts. So I make 2% off of that but that’s in reality 102%. Between that and the annual company stock options where they give you a share for every share you buy at a 15% discount. Again, doubling money. Best investment ever was just before they split and I turned $10K into $70K overnight. If I’d followed the advice of the financial advisors with Vangurad I’d be down an easy $100K


----------



## sakete

JustinThyme said:


> My market at this point is played smart. I double my money, that’s right 100% gain out of the door on 401K match. All low yield safe money market accounts. So I make 2% off of that but that’s in reality 102%. Between that and the annual company stock options where they give you a share for every share you buy at a 15% discount. Again, doubling money. Best investment ever was just before they split and I turned $10K into $70K overnight. If I’d followed the advice of the financial advisors with Vangurad I’d be down an easy $100K


Financial advisors are just employees as well. If they were such geniuses at investing they'd be independent investors and wouldn't bother dealing with clients.

I can know, because I used to be an investment advisor during the 2008 crash. It made me realize how bad I was at timing the market, so I switched careers.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

sakete said:


> So if I were to get a copper cold plate, instead of nickel, copper can start to look kinda gross (oxidization), but it otherwise will not leave gunk in the loop right? It's purely cosmetic? As PPCS does have black mount + copper plate + acetal cover in stock.


its just on the bottom part of the block cosmetic wise you aint seeing that part. no matter how bad it gets tarnished aint loosing the perf anyway... you can service the block later on with some mothers cream or wathever you have for metal polishing..

the inside is also pretty easy to clean with hot water and vinegar solution "DO NOT PUT MOTHERS CREAM INSIDE YOU WILL HAVE ISSUES GETTING IT OUT OF THE MICRO FINS and getting rid the protective layers it put you dont want that inside your loop lol"... when you do your loop maintenance.. myself i prefer copper piece over nickel in any time given..


----------



## zGunBLADEz

skupples said:


> hey man, the kids are where the money's at. we all know that, and we all know companies dream of the mainstream (child access) success EK has garnered in the last few years. /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> still, modular fin section is weird. i don't like it.


Well thats the case optimus bro XD i have used a lot of ek before anybody been doing wc long time has... i like their black zmt tubing and compression "the old ones tho" fittings tho for their defense other than that... still looking for a cheap solution on that tubing tho...
Once you get a hold on a good performance block you see right away ek flaws. Thats why i cant comprehend the reviews i saw back in the days on the ek evo vs the koolance 380 they dont make no sense to me. the koolance 380 its the better performer for miles lol... specially on high wattage scenarios thats where the margin gets even more ridiculous look at my tests here i have put a few with different blocks... the tests on this reviews were controlled in x fixed wattage usage not real case scenario that varies by user then *you have users expecting 60c tops on ambients like 90F* ok buddy good luck there lets be realistic and go notch in bios on that summer profile for the cpu XD... Sometimes you can have the same wattage output but lower temps.. sometimes you have less wattage usage but the voltage is higher and the application used will shoot up the cores higher.. its so many variables..
Even to date tests you see as late in this "reviewers" they got done on 200w loads using aida not even fpu part ticked or p95 26.6 that only uses 32T tops on a 18/36t the cpu still in the 200w range you cant call numbers at those settings specially call a win on a fraction of a degree of 0.05c in others.....Please no, just no.... stop it lol ....


So realistic speaking the only temps that matters around here are the ones which goes with the 2x tdp rule of the chip on a overclock for 24/7 usage that varies by application/instruction set used then you measure how much room you have from there... for little shows and suicide benches or pushing hard... driving a 165w tdp cpu at over 500w 100% daily its quite @ feat specially in hot areas.. at that point is a race between who goes first psu/vrms or the cpu...



heres a current "mainstream review of a new block"
Source: https://bit-tech.net/reviews/tech/cooling/ekwb-magnitude-cpu-waterblock-review/3/


> We place our test rigs under load using the small FFTs stress test in the free application Prime95 26.6, as this test is designed to place maximum load on the CPU. We use the free applications CoreTemp and HWMonitor to measure the temperature of our CPUs. We always take the maximum temperature for consistency and do so after 15 minutes, which is enough time for temperatures to plateau. The test is performed using a custom-made script to ensure consistency.
> CPU - Intel Core i9-7980XE overclocked to 4GHz using a vcore of 1.1V


after the "massive warning" of using p95 26.6 etc.. and this "massive loads" that he is speaking about... this are my results and im not even trying to make it look bad to be honest lol

So now i know what they used, what application and the version and cpu settings were used i try to replicate that on my end.. 


Anyway,, My tests are my own im the one noticing the difference in my chair specially on a 18core cpu at full throttle where tdp can go up to 125%+ more power consumption over like it aint nothing... but also i speak in my behalf on what im witnessing..

Then again AESTHETICS and rgb.. but AIO performance XD


my complaint on the v2 its the fixed bracket for intel.. i wished it was modular (but it also would put a hit on the statement on "build like a tank" block i supposed so is a trade?? lol) the foundation dont have this problem but lets hope intel dont change 11xx or hedt mountings anytime soon.. but if the chip/ihs gets bigger for the ridiculous amount of cores we are witnessing at this time then the block would eventually need to be swapped its just part of this.. look threadripper ihs size and thats where we going eventually. not optimus fault lol...


----------



## JustinThyme

Well after another email the other day I got shipment notification on the springless kit in nickel for Sig V2 be here Monday. By then Ill be cranking out the runs with the magnitude to see what it will do and making a dceision on which stays in DasBeast.


----------



## KedarWolf

ThrashZone said:


> Edit: But if you order today and they ship on Monday, you won't get free shipping. ]



Hi,
Something for you amd guys 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=632&v=JlJDv68fEcM&feature=emb_logo

I think the Der8auer RYZEN 3000 OC Bracket isn't needed with an AMD Foundation water block. It's designed all the chiplets are covered by the fins and makes the bracket redundant I think. Maybe for an AIO or a block that doesn't cover all the chiplets, it would help.

Edit: And I checked, right now not available to North America. EU only.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

KedarWolf said:


> Hi,
> Something for you amd guys
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=632&v=JlJDv68fEcM&feature=emb_logo
> 
> I think the Der8auer RYZEN 3000 OC Bracket isn't needed with an AMD Foundation water block. It's designed all the chiplets are covered by the fins and makes the bracket redundant I think. Maybe for an AIO or a block that doesn't cover all the chiplets, it would help.
> 
> Edit: And I checked, right now not available to North America. EU only.


and $30 bucks and then some to top it off :/


----------



## Optimus WC

RE: the Der8auer bracket, it's a cool idea, but only really needed for waterblocks that weren't designed with Ryzen (or big die areas) in mind  

For GPUs, we're still behind schedule, but working like crazy to get it done. The only good news is that we're doing lots of work behind the scenes to get production up to where it needs to be to handle orders and then make new block variations very, very quickly. Yes, industry 4.0 things going on.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah just something I tripped over thought the amd gang would enjoy it


----------



## agentdark45

Optimus WC said:


> RE: the Der8auer bracket, it's a cool idea, but only really needed for waterblocks that weren't designed with Ryzen (or big die areas) in mind
> 
> For GPUs, we're still behind schedule, but working like crazy to get it done. The only good news is that we're doing lots of work behind the scenes to get production up to where it needs to be to handle orders and then make new block variations very, very quickly. Yes, industry 4.0 things going on.


Sorry to pester again, but do we have an ETA on the threadripper blocks?


----------



## qes27

agentdark45 said:


> Sorry to pester again, but do we have an ETA on the threadripper blocks?


1/23 - "Threadripper: End of next week."

1/25 - "We'll be manufacturing the blocks this coming week, then all the finishing will take another week or so. So our best estimate is the week after next for delivery."

2/3 - "The Threadripper and GPU blocks are still a few weeks out, Threadripper will be first"

2/22 - "now it's all hands on deck getting these blocks out the door!! ...we'll be shipping soon, hard to give an exact time but will keep posting updates as we crank out the blocks"

3/13 - "turns out people are doing more builds now that they're working from home. So the only Corona issues facing us are an unexpected increase in orders... And Threadripper is being made right now, it's always a balance making new product while fulfilling current orders"

Sounds like people waiting for TR blocks should expect even more delays as new orders continue to jump the line in front of finishing the TR blocks.


----------



## skupples

and global supply lines going down to skelly crews for at least the next 10 business days, all while everyone is selling amazon & other food delivery services weeks if not months into back orders on certain products. from what I can tell, 99% of the big food insurance companies are 2+ months back ordered at this point.


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> and global supply lines going down to skelly crews for at least the next 10 business days.


Yeah, it's all coming to a halt now. I wouldn't be surprised if shipping companies start cutting back in the coming week as well.

Perhaps this is *the* event of our generation. Some people live through wars (like my mother did, WW2), we will live through a pandemic and it might forever change our psyche and change our behavior going forward.

It is interesting to see that in spite of what Hollywood movies want you to believe will happen in times of crisis (people coming together and singing koombaya), in reality people are becoming even more selfish. Which makes sense, self preservation instincts are hard to turn off.


----------



## skupples

anyone in a disaster prone area was already aware of human nature long ago.

i'm just waiting for people to start shuttering their homes, & bringing out the "you loot, we shoot" signs.


good news is, there are people willing to get that impending hazard pay to keep said skellies goes.


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> anyone in a disaster prone area was already aware of human nature long ago.
> 
> 
> 
> i'm just waiting for people to start shuttering their homes, & bringing out the "you loot, we shoot" signs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good news is, there are people willing to get that impending hazard pay to keep said skellies goes.


Yep. I'm not a big fan of gun ownership, but this is one time where it might make sense. Because if this gets really bad, you might get the crazies trying to break into people's homes for food. And then it's just a free for all.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> Yep. I'm not a big fan of gun ownership, but this is one time where it might make sense. Because if this gets really bad, you might get the crazies trying to break into people's homes for food. And then it's just a free for all.


Hi,
Worst is DA's in many cities aren't prosecuting theft under 1k.us either so thieves are often out in hours on a no cash PR bond lol got to love the lib's but shooting a thief well you'll likely see the law is very tough seeing they believe all items can easily be replaced of course not with their money just yours :kookoo:


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Worst is DA's in many cities aren't prosecuting theft under 1k.us either so thieves are often out in hours on a no cash PR bond lol got to love the lib's but shooting a thief well you'll likely see the law is very tough seeing they believe all items can easily be replaced of course not with their money just yours :kookoo:


It might have less to do with left vs right than there just not being enough capacity to handle all those smaller cases.

But yeah, I should probably at least get a baseball bat. I don't want a gun in our house with a 1yr old running around.


----------



## skupples

sakete said:


> Yep. I'm not a big fan of gun ownership, but this is one time where it might make sense. Because if this gets really bad, you might get the crazies trying to break into people's homes for food. And then it's just a free for all.


idk how else to say this -

it typically takes ~24-36 hours of no power. then people lose their shart. This is why florida, and other weather prone states will likely ride this out better. We have lots of pre-planning on how to keep the grid up, and stores running, even when the neighborhoods are without power, as it drastically reduces vans full of young people showing up for your stuff in neighborhood wide smash n grabs. (happened to me during Irma. 4 kids opened all 4 doors of my car, with guns. ran off to a brand new dodge on 24s n zoomed off)

luckily, the power won't be going out. so its much easier for supply lines to stay open. 

my point, it shouldn't be as bad as "Katrina"  the pre-panic? yes, but the seas aren't rising, and the power isn't failing, people are just gonna sit at home chillin on netflix & steam for 2 weeks. Pizza delivery stock is on fire 

we all wanna work from home for two weeks. sucks i'm deployment guy.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> It might have less to do with left vs right than there just not being enough capacity to handle all those smaller cases.
> 
> But yeah, I should probably at least get a baseball bat. I don't want a gun in our house with a 1yr old running around.


Hi,
Only "woke" crowd is libs not necessarily left but off the cliff left maybe just like off the cliff right.


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> idk how else to say this -
> 
> 
> 
> it typically takes ~24-36 hours of no power. then people lose their shart. This is why florida, and other weather prone states will likely ride this out better. We have lots of pre-planning on how to keep the grid up, and stores running, even when the neighborhoods are without power, as it drastically reduces vans full of young people showing up for your stuff in neighborhood wide smash n grabs. (happened to me during Irma. 4 kids opened all 4 doors of my car, with guns. ran off to a brand new dodge on 24s n zoomed off)


Yeah, the difference here though is that it's unlikely that power and water will shutdown. This is a virus that's spreading, it's not a hurricane / tornado / earthquake or major flood that will disrupt infrastructure like power and water.

But yeah, food supply chains might be impacted which is a big deal.


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Only "woke" crowd is libs not necessarily left but off the cliff left maybe just like off the cliff right.


Woke people are a joke and unreasonable. I'm usually smack dab in the middle.

Like you say, off the cliff on either side isn't good.


----------



## skupples

stuff we rely on that gets imported on the low low will be affected most. morning deliveries will still get met with some sort of supply. 

private sector america is still vowing to remain open in some capacity.


----------



## sakete

Whatever the case, I will upgrade shipping speeds on all the watercooling parts I just ordered. That'll give me something to sink my teeth in for a while and distract me.


----------



## Avacado

skupples said:


> stuff we rely on that gets imported on the low low will be affected most. morning deliveries will still get met with some sort of supply.
> 
> private sector america is still vowing to remain open in some capacity.


This. I work at the VA hospital nearby as a nurse. As others have stated, it is unlikely that utilities will be effected as they are for the most part automated. We are roughly 2-3 weeks behind Italy and we will not be able to get ahead of what is coming. We almost mirror the infection rate bell curve for Italy's outbreak. This will be with us for the next 6 months until its resurgence in the fall. Maintain as much social isolation as possible while still trying to live your life, wash your hands frequently and stay home if you are exhibiting symptoms. Its that simple. The flu claimed 40k lives last year, me and the rest of the staff wish people worried about it as much as they are about this.


----------



## skupples

^^ and doctors/nurses HATE testing for flu, to the point of almost calling their responses apathetic & jaded. 

so this should change that, yay! maybe we'll get a better thera/tami too.

amazon is flailing because globalism & China are flailing... for those of you checking & being like "dafuq! pantry is cleaned out!"

luckily, i'm sure there are plenty of local businesses ready to step up.

might have to end up eating lots of florida grown oranges, instead of cali grown! O.O! the horror.


----------



## Avacado

skupples said:


> ^^ and doctors/nurses HATE testing for flu, to the point of almost calling their responses apathetic & jaded.
> 
> so this should change that, yay! maybe we'll get a better thera/tami too.


Taking tami/thera make people worse in terms of medication side effects, it's almost wrong to dispense it as when you come to us asking for it, it is almost past the point of being beneficial. If you were a patient in my office, you wouldn't have to visit to get a prophylactic dose.


----------



## skupples

right, which is why I said it would be nice for something better to come along.

99% of the time, even if you get to the dr "in time" they do not want to dispense it/tell you you don't have the flu without testing. assuming you're standard healthy adult. i remember flu tests as a kid.

i'm pissed i'm still expected to travel to my doctor late next week to get my bi-monthly refill on a controlled substance. 

seems like state of emergency would allow a 1-2 week faxed in dose.


----------



## ThrashZone

Avacado said:


> This. I work at the VA hospital nearby as a nurse. As others have stated, it is unlikely that utilities will be effected as they are for the most part automated. We are roughly 2-3 weeks behind Italy and we will not be able to get ahead of what is coming. We almost mirror the infection rate bell curve for Italy's outbreak. This will be with us for the next 6 months until its resurgence in the fall. Maintain as much social isolation as possible while still trying to live your life, wash your hands frequently and stay home if you are exhibiting symptoms. Its that simple. *The flu claimed 40k lives last year, me and the rest of the staff wish people worried about it as much as there are about this*.


Hi,
Election too close to pass on exploiting another opportunity to blame current admin all else has failed

To your point every year we'd have this panic stuff going on and don't not even n1h1 took 1k lives out before anyone said anything :thinking:


----------



## Avacado

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Election too close to pass on exploiting another opportunity to blame current admin all else has failed
> 
> To your point every year we'd have this panic stuff going on and don't not even n1h1 took 1k lives out before anyone said anything :thinking:


Oh, you are preaching to the choir my friend.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

now i highly doubt DAs aren't pressing people for thefts under 1k. Thats just ridiculous. sounds like propaganda. I can't imagine a world where our government would leave the money from the ensuing prison time and restitution fees on the table.


either way there should be no talk of politics on this forum

especially in a waterblock thread


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> Whatever the case, I will upgrade shipping speeds on all the watercooling parts I just ordered. That'll give me something to sink my teeth in for a while and distract me.


Hi,
Just PPC processing is pretty slow I always expedite that one too.


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Just PPC processing is pretty slow I always expedite that one too.


Yeah I'm going to call them first thing tomorrow morning.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

ppc processing is slow? they have always gotten my 1k orders out the next day unless they have a stock issue


----------



## skupples

https://www.texastribune.org/2019/0...ey-john-cruezot-not-prosecuting-minor-crimes/

not the only city in america to do so, in an attempt to relieve a burdened system.


----------



## Avacado

This chart is what we in the industry are concerned about. If we can't keep the rate of spread down below what our healthcare infrastructure can handle, then THAT is when we have a problem.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

skupples said:


> https://www.texastribune.org/2019/0...ey-john-cruezot-not-prosecuting-minor-crimes/
> 
> not the only city in america to do so, in an attempt to relieve a burdened system.


what does that have to do with corona though, thats from a year ago and it's just "an attempt to relieve a burdened system" as you said


----------



## skupples

tatmMRKIV said:


> ppc processing is slow? they have always gotten my 1k orders out the next day unless they have a stock issue


florida is slowly going into lockdown. i wouldn't be surprised if they are even down @ the shop right now. also, not sure they're even open for processing on sundays?


tatmMRKIV said:


> *now i highly doubt DAs aren't pressing people for thefts under 1k. Thats just ridiculous. sounds like propaganda.* I can't imagine a world where our government would leave the money from the ensuing prison time and restitution fees on the table.
> 
> 
> either way there should be no talk of politics on this forum
> 
> especially in a waterblock thread


this

prisons are overflowing. they've got plenty of people in the system for petty shart already.


----------



## skupples

delete


----------



## ThrashZone

tatmMRKIV said:


> now i highly doubt DAs aren't pressing people for thefts under 1k. Thats just ridiculous. sounds like propaganda. I can't imagine a world where our government would leave the money from the ensuing prison time and restitution fees on the table.
> 
> 
> either way there should be no talk of politics on this forum
> 
> especially in a waterblock thread


Hi,
Read much ?
California/ New York just to name 2 that are kicking people out of jail as soon as they come in all crimes under 1k.us theft or no violent ..
Snatch and grab thefts are up for cloths/..... bank robberies too funny one black dude in New York did 3 or 4 and out the next day PR bonds and probably Mets tickets DA... is woke lol :thumb:


----------



## tatmMRKIV

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Read much ?
> California/ New York just to name 2 that are kicking people out of jail as soon as they come in all crimes under 1k.us theft or no violent ..
> Snatch and grab thefts are up for cloths/..... bank robberies too funny one black dude in New York did 3 or 4 and out the next day PR bonds and probably Mets tickets DA... is woke lol :thumb:


I read a ton, obviously different stuff than you though

and yeah i don't really see an issue with nonviolent criminals being out on the streets when my local sheriffs office has half a million untested rape kits sitting on their desks. More room for the real scum of society.


----------



## skupples

it was starting to happen up in Michigan when I was going thru the system in 2010. drug offenders getting mandatory minimums, while grand larsonists & high speed pursuit dudes were getting out the day after court. 

sure, put the public at risk, or jack some money, get outta jail... fade away for a bit after work? NO SKIP GO FOR YOU SIR! directly to jail.


----------



## tatmMRKIV

skupples said:


> it was starting to happen up in Michigan when I was going thru the system in 2010. drug offenders getting mandatory minimums, while grand larsonists & high speed pursuit dudes were getting out the day after court.
> 
> sure, put the public at risk, or jack some money, get outta jail... fade away for a bit after work? NO SKIP GO FOR YOU SIR! directly to jail.


yeha white collar crime is another boat. they act like there aren't victums but they are just as bad if not worse than violent criminals in my eyes. stealing peoples retirements and all that


----------



## skupples

what they do should be classed as violent. It's an animal attacking on a modern level.


----------



## ThrashZone

tatmMRKIV said:


> I read a ton, obviously different stuff than you though
> 
> and yeah i don't really see an issue with nonviolent criminals being out on the streets when my local sheriffs office has half a million untested rape kits sitting on their desks. More room for the real scum of society.


Hi,
Non violent is a wild excuse 
Technically I steal your car or a business/................................. and don't hurt you or anyone it's non violent but the theft goes with prosecution 

Interesting you have something you do care about and so do I on the same thing
No accountability is the same as no prosecution and no deterrent to keep people from repeating crimes.

You never will read this stuff on cnn/ msmbc/... sometime even local papers are all not going to publish stats on woke policies.

Unfortunately you have to witness it or watch fox every once in a while :/


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Non violent is a wild excuse
> 
> Technically I steal your car or a business/................................. and don't hurt you or anyone it's non violent but the theft goes with prosecution
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting you have something you do care about and so do I on the same thing
> 
> No accountability is the same as no prosecution and no deterrent to keep people from repeating crimes.
> 
> 
> 
> You never will read this stuff on cnn/ msmbc/... sometime even local papers are all not going to publish stats on woke policies.
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately you have to witness it or watch fox every once in a while :/


Ehh, best to just keep the TV turned off. They all have bias, whether it's left or right leaning, and put a spin on reality. Also, their incentive is to make money and keeping people glued to their channel is what makes them money. The more fearful or outraged people are, the more likely people will continue watching them.

I turned off my TV over 5 years ago and life has been a lot more peaceful since. I only turn it on for a movie or good TV show.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> Ehh, best to just keep the TV turned off. They all have bias, whether it's left or right leaning, and put a spin on reality. Also, their incentive is to make money and keeping people glued to their channel is what makes them money. The more fearful or outraged people are, the more likely people will continue watching them.
> 
> I turned off my TV over 5 years ago and life has been a lot more peaceful since. I only turn it on for a movie or good TV show.


Hi,
Then it's like keeping your head in the sand 
Best to watch both and make sense of it all just from the facts they produce 

It was pretty clear about New York's policies and repeated bank robber though laughable frankly must be something in the water up there why it allowed to happen


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Then it's like keeping your head in the sand
> 
> Best to watch both and make sense of it all just from the facts they produce
> 
> 
> 
> It was pretty clear about New York's policies and repeated bank robber though laughable frankly must be something in the water up there why it allowed to happen


I read the news, just don't watch it. Reading it is a lot less sensationalist than watching those talking heads freaking out all day long.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> I read the news, just don't watch it. Reading it is a lot less sensationalist than watching those talking heads freaking out all day long.


Hi,
Depends on the writer 
I do like fox "the five" and Tucker he used to be on msmbc 
Hardball too but the woke crowd got him


----------



## skupples

^^ social media as well.

community boards, ftw. 

I listen to NPR / CTR when on the road, depending on which I can get in. Gotta love how Art Bell's still on the air after all these years  n Sean Hannity definitely serves a purpose, but he's an indoctrination machine with the way he repeats stuff. (n he knows it  its where the "1k H1N1" line is coming from)


ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Depends on the writer
> I do like fox "the five" and Tucker he used to be on msmbc
> Hardball too but the woke crowd got him


dude needs plastic surgery to fix his cross eyed perma-disgusted & pissed gaze.

i've always caught red eye & FF after the fact on youtube, cuz its 90% comedy, akin to classic Daily Show.


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> ^^ social media as well.
> 
> 
> 
> community boards, ftw.
> 
> 
> 
> I listen to NPR / CTR when on the road, depending on which I can get in. Gotta love how Art Bell's still on the air after all these years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dude needs plastic surgery to fix his cross eyed perma-disgusted & pissed gaze.


Yeah NPR is good. NY Times is good for non-political stuff, The Economist very good as well.

For political stuff it's impossible to get neutral coverage anywhere.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nothing on cnn


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Nothing on cnn


CNN is utter garbage.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> CNN is utter garbage.


Hi,
See we're agreeing 
Not sure how cnn stays in business airport money ?


----------



## ciarlatano

sakete said:


> Yeah NPR is good. NY Times is good for non-political stuff, The Economist very good as well.
> 
> For political stuff it's impossible to get neutral coverage anywhere.


BBC European broadcasts are actually very good. There are streams around if you dig.


----------



## sakete

ciarlatano said:


> BBC European broadcasts are actually very good. There are streams around if you dig.


Yes, European news is much more low key and not hysterical, unlike all US news outlets. It's like listening to Sir David Attenborough narrating a nature documentary when you watch BBC News, pleasant and calm.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> See we're agreeing
> Not sure how cnn stays in business airport money ?


They are all garbage.
CNN+ Clinton News Network. Media has gone into the crapper. They are all biased in one direction or the other. The only more biased source than CNN is MSNBC. 
I miss the old days where they reported the news, just the facts with no political narrative. Now its skewed topics with more political commentary than news! Kinda like the difference between when wrestling was just fake and fun to watch, now its just a bunch of Bozos talking smack for 50 mins out of an hour show, then 10 mins of acting. So easy to call the winner even if you dont follow. Whoever starts getting the crap beat out of them first wins.

Walter Cronkite FTW......"And thats the way it was...
Back in the days when people were capable of forming their own opinions.


----------



## sakete

JustinThyme said:


> They are all garbage.
> 
> CNN+ Clinton News Network. Media has gone into the crapper. They are all biased in one direction or the other. The only more biased source than CNN is MSNBC.
> 
> I miss the old days where they reported the news, just the facts with no political narrative. Now its skewed topics with more political commentary than news! Kinda like the difference between when wrestling was just fake and fun to watch, now its just a bunch of Bozos talking smack for 50 mins out of an hour show, then 10 mins of acting. So easy to call the winner even if you dont follow. Whoever starts getting the crap beat out of them first wins.
> 
> 
> 
> Walter Cronkite FTW......"And thats the way it was...
> 
> Back in the days when people were capable of forming their own opinions.


You can thank the elimination of the Fairness Doctrine for that. I think it happened in the 80s under Reagan. That meant news could spew whatever nonsense they wanted, instead of the truth.

And yes, CNN, MSNBC are biased, but so is Fox News, just biased towards the right. There is no fair and balanced news reporting anymore, especially when it comes to politics. Opinions are now presented as fact, and facts are spun depending on the agenda.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

So, im trying liquid metal now.... Glad i did... the most beautiful temps i ever seen humanly possible did try lm before on top of the ihs in other "setups" without that much difference vs paste i mean like a noticeable difference like this one... I hit lm also very conservative.. I need to cure the copper with lm so thats that... Still some room from improvement..

Btw, all my tests from now on would be around the 2xtdp rule "bit over sometimes" not my fault lol... I already proved my point as im the hardest sustained tests all over this topic enough of killing this one xD...

that spread is beautiful XD

now i can 100% say optimus block is my best performance block of my collection lol

Ambient around the radiator is around 72F XD


----------



## poah

ciarlatano said:


> BBC European broadcasts are actually very good. There are streams around if you dig.


BBC are bias as hell. I would ignore the BBC if you can. Not as bad as american outlets but still piss poor journalism.


----------



## oreonutz

What the Hell Guys? You all are encroaching on my safe space by bringing up Politics in my Optimus Thread! SHAME ON YOU! lol... :lachen:


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Just woke media no policies


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> What the Hell Guys? You all are encroaching on my safe space by bringing up Politics in my Optimus Thread! SHAME ON YOU! lol... :lachen:


Haha, yeah sorry. There's a lot of **** going on in the world right now that's really laying bare some of the major issues we have in this country, which gets me all heated up.

Anyway, back on topic on this thread.

So how about those Optimus waterblocks huh? Pretty neat.


----------



## Shawnb99

So what are the odds the waterblock comes out before the first day of Summer?


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Haha, yeah sorry. There's a lot of **** going on in the world right now that's really laying bare some of the major issues we have in this country, which gets me all heated up.
> 
> Anyway, back on topic on this thread.
> 
> So how about those Optimus waterblocks huh? Pretty neat.


Trust me I get it, 100%. I whole heartedly agree with your assessment. Unfortunately though I find that there are more then a few people on these forums that we would otherwise get along with, that would try to convince you the sky is Red when it comes to politics, so best to keep it far far from here, so we can enjoy each others company, instead of taking up arms against each other, lol.


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> So what are the odds the waterblock comes out before the first day of Summer?


Double Post, because I am too lazy to go back and edit my last post 2 Minutes ago.

I would love to say the odds are great! But with everything shutting down, I believe Chicago is also shutting down, so probably not likely. But maybe the PC Gods will take pity on us poor souls, and give us something to be grateful for. We shall see...


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> Double Post, because I am too lazy to go back and edit my last post 2 Minutes ago.
> 
> 
> 
> I would love to say the odds are great! But with everything shutting down, I believe Chicago is also shutting down, so probably not likely. But maybe the PC Gods will take pity on us poor souls, and give us something to be grateful for. We shall see...


Yeah I just sent them an email asking to upgrade my order to overnight shipping as they said my block would ship out today (AM4 Foundation). Hopefully it works, as I also have a whole bunch of other parts coming in tomorrow or Wednesday, and I'd like to start building my first watercooled system. Should be a fun little project to distract me from all that's happening out there right now.


----------



## KedarWolf

The Optimus website says my order for a AMD Foundation CPU block is Fullfilled and I have a UPS tracking number.

Says label created and hasn't shipped yet though. I chose one day shipping.


----------



## ThrashZone

KedarWolf said:


> The Optimus website says my order for a AMD Foundation CPU block is Fullfilled and I have a UPS tracking number.
> 
> Says label created and hasn't shipped yet though. I chose one day shipping.


Hi,
Didn't they refund that 1 day shipping ?


----------



## KedarWolf

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Didn't they refund that 1 day shipping ?


They are still shipping one day, but are refunding the $42 USD I paid for it.

UPS Worldwide Saver
International express shipments with guaranteed end of day delivery

Share
Next business day delivery by the end of day to Canada
Second business day delivery by end of day to Mexico and major metropolitan areas worldwide
Day-definite delivery by the end of the business day to other locations worldwide, depending on destination
Door-to-door service with in-house customs clearance
Up to three delivery attempts


----------



## sakete

Man, impossible to find distilled water anywhere except stuff with additives in it (like electrolytes). All my local stores empty


----------



## KedarWolf

KedarWolf said:


> They are still shipping one day, but are refunding the $42 USD I paid for it.
> 
> UPS Worldwide Saver
> International express shipments with guaranteed end of day delivery
> 
> Share
> Next business day delivery by the end of day to Canada
> Second business day delivery by end of day to Mexico and major metropolitan areas worldwide
> Day-definite delivery by the end of the business day to other locations worldwide, depending on destination
> Door-to-door service with in-house customs clearance
> Up to three delivery attempts


Everything is being shutdown in Canada, remains to be seen if I get it tomorrow.


----------



## TK421

optimus factory tour when?


----------



## ThrashZone

KedarWolf said:


> Everything is being shutdown in Canada, remains to be seen if I get it tomorrow.


Hi,
Yeah that's not going to help


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Man, impossible to find distilled water anywhere except stuff with additives in it (like electrolytes). All my local stores empty


Try Grocery.walmart.com

I just 8 Bottles of Distilled delivered from them, when literally every other store in my area was out. I normally get it from Amazon Now, but they are out of everything.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah I tried wally world shopping didn't have half the stuff and they canceled 
When to another one close to me also and they had everything of course that was last Tuesday.


----------



## criskoe

KedarWolf said:


> Everything is being shutdown in Canada, remains to be seen if I get it tomorrow.


PPCS is arriving for me here in Canada today via fedex. 

Crazy enough the fedex international priority arrives next day from Florida to BC cananda. Lol. That’s pretty dam far away. Basically across the country and over the boarder.. Pretty impressive really. One order on Monday that arrived Tuesday. One on Thursday that arrived Friday. And one on Friday that’s arriving today. 

Yeah in case your wondering I’m a idiot, either forgot to order something or realized last min I needed something else. Lmao. 23 usd shipping each time. Not my proudest moment. Lol. Butt least I have everything now and it made it.


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> Try Grocery.walmart.com
> 
> 
> 
> I just 8 Bottles of Distilled delivered from them, when literally every other store in my area was out. I normally get it from Amazon Now, but they are out of everything.


Yeah, they don't have any distilled water anymore, except one with a bunch of additives for "flavor".


----------



## qes27

sakete said:


> Man, impossible to find distilled water anywhere except stuff with additives in it (like electrolytes). All my local stores empty


A multi-stage RO/DI filter is a good investment. Nice to know you've got 50 gal of clean water on hand and can make more with nothing but a few dozen psi of water pressure and some source water. Costs a lot less than a full loop setup, barely more than the new TR blocks.


----------



## KedarWolf

criskoe said:


> PPCS is arriving for me here in Canada today via fedex.
> 
> Crazy enough the fedex international priority arrives next day from Florida to BC cananda. Lol. That’s pretty dam far away. Basically across the country and over the boarder.. Pretty impressive really. One order on Monday that arrived Tuesday. One on Thursday that arrived Friday. And one on Friday that’s arriving today.
> 
> Yeah in case your wondering I’m a idiot, either forgot to order something or realized last min I needed something else. Lmao. 23 usd shipping each time. Not my proudest moment. Lol. Butt least I have everything now and it made it.


Label for my shipment was made today, supposed to get it by tomorrow, by end of the day. I ordered it Friday at 3 a.m. but never shipped Friday as they production run at Optimus never made them available until today. And I'm getting refunded the $42 USD for them not shipping Friday. 

Edit: And was going to my work site, which closed until further notice today, I emailed the support contact guy again today after the label was made in the early afternoon, it was changed to my home address within 20 minutes.

They are so awesome!!! I strongly recommend buying from their online store, and the options which style of blocks you can get much better than PPCS.


----------



## sakete

qes27 said:


> A multi-stage RO/DI filter is a good investment. Nice to know you've got 50 gal of clean water on hand and can make more with nothing but a few dozen psi of water pressure and some source water. Costs a lot less than a full loop setup, barely more than the new TR blocks.


Some day...

For now, I was able to pick up a few jugs of distilled water at a Walmart on the way home from work, so now I'm set. Just need to receive all these parts, some of which are arriving tomorrow.

First step will be to clean the radiator with Blitz part 1.


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> See we're agreeing
> Not sure how cnn stays in business airport money ?


they're owned by Comcast, no? & likely operate at a loss. paying all those self absorbed psychopaths can't come cheep.


sakete said:


> Some day...
> 
> For now, I was able to pick up a few jugs of distilled water at a Walmart on the way home from work, so now I'm set. Just need to receive all these parts, some of which are arriving tomorrow.
> 
> First step will be to clean the radiator with Blitz part 1.


distilled is always one of the first things to sell out when people get panicky down here in FL. (old poeple)


oreonutz said:


> Try Grocery.walmart.com
> 
> I just 8 Bottles of Distilled delivered from them, when literally every other store in my area was out. I normally get it from Amazon Now, but they are out of everything.


cuz chinese supplied cheep goods.

gotta think creative. there's likely a local business that has it buy the 10 gallon jug. likely the same people who sell bulk ice.


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> they're owned by Comcast, no? & likely operate at a loss. paying all those self absorbed psychopaths can't come cheep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> distilled is always one of the first things to sell out when people get panicky down here in FL. (old poeple)


CNN is owned by AT&T (WarnerMedia). In general you shouldn't really trust the corporate media.


----------



## skupples

thx for the correction - close enough.

for those who might wonder where to find clean water once the stores run out of bottles\keep running out before you get there. 

you can pretty much always find a local bottling business selling sealed jugs of water, & clean chunks of ice. they tend to remain open, even when everyone else is closed. at least, down here in Hurricaneville.


----------



## KedarWolf

Got an email, the AMD Foundation waterblock that was supposed to come by UPS today delayed. But that's not an Optimus issue, it's a UPS issue. 

No update when I'll get it though.


----------



## sakete

KedarWolf said:


> Got an email, the AMD Foundation waterblock that was supposed to come by UPS today delayed. But that's not an Optimus issue, it's a UPS issue.
> 
> 
> 
> No update when I'll get it though.


Bummer man. Mine just got delivered.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> CNN is owned by AT&T (WarnerMedia). In general you shouldn't really trust the corporate media.


Hi,
That makes sense 
I called at&t yesterday and asked the twits if they were giving my cell phone number out to liberals to text spam me 
All started I believe with beto o'dork and has been about everyday since with other far left wing text spamming me.
Lowdown social woke nonsense.

On another note I'm switching to ICC thermal pad I bought last week to see what they are like.


----------



## KedarWolf

sakete said:


> Bummer man. Mine just got delivered.


Now tracking says it's just shipped, coming by end of today, the last update. Remains to be seen though, it's one-day shipping, might be tomorrow if it just shipped a bit ago. :h34r-smi

From Illinois to Toronto, Canada.


----------



## JustinThyme

KedarWolf said:


> Now tracking says it's just shipped, coming by end of today, the last update. Remains to be seen though, it's one-day shipping, might be tomorrow if it just shipped a bit ago. :h34r-smi
> 
> From Illinois to Toronto, Canada.


Thats mostly Canadian Customs. Expect an import tarriff and a brokerage fee from UPS.


----------



## Endeav

Should be no tariffs on electronic goods, and can self assess to avoid the brokerage fee. I self assessed a radiator shipping via ups at the CBSA office, paid 8 bucks in taxes and no duty was assessed, and picked up my radiator from UPS. CBSA officer was confused when I said 'radiator' and 'computer' together.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Used a IC graphite pad on the sigV2 lol it was ugly only the opendata short test too 9c hotter @4.5 avx-3 still not sure what LTT was smoking saying only 1c hotter 


Spoiler


----------



## Kashtan

Anybody compared Optimus versus Magnitude?


----------



## Section31

Kashtan said:


> Anybody compared Optimus versus Magnitude?


There's another thread here created for that block. They could give you some info there. Some of the people in this thread also are in the other thread, so they can give you idea. The results should be similar based on the intel results.


----------



## ThrashZone

Kashtan said:


> Anybody compared Optimus versus Magnitude?


Hi,
Yes doing it now 
So far optimus foundation has not been beat yet by magnitude nickle or magnitude acetal black
SigV2 is king or at least my modified one is jacking up all 3 atm 

Pretty much found out which testing my fan messed up on sigV2 lol knew there was something way off not beating the foundation.
But still testing sigV2 and going to redo mag nickle not sure why I've done it three times now already.
And many more failed mounts using ek mounting system 
Finally ditched it and doing a static mount like optimus uses.


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> Now tracking says it's just shipped, coming by end of today, the last update. Remains to be seen though, it's one-day shipping, might be tomorrow if it just shipped a bit ago. :h34r-smi
> 
> From Illinois to Toronto, Canada.


It's hard to say if you get taxed GST/HST. One of my Optimus blocks was taxed and the other wasn't. Only thing i know isn't taxed are fittings order through modmymods/ppcs/aliexpress. So far, everyone who has ordered fittings i know (around 100usd) has never been taxed unless its includes pumps and water blocks. CBSA is unpredictable otherwise. That's why people gamble with cheapest national carrier shipping as CBSA sometimes just lets it go.


----------



## Kashtan

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yes doing it now
> So far optimus foundation has not been beat yet by magnitude nickle or magnitude acetal black
> SigV2 is king or at least my modified one is jacking up all 3 atm
> 
> Pretty much found out which testing my fan messed up on sigV2 lol knew there was something way off not beating the foundation.
> But still testing sigV2 and going to redo mag nickle not sure why I've done it three times now already.
> And many more failed mounts using ek mounting system
> Finally ditched it and doing a static mount like optimus uses.


Thank you. Any numbers - i mean temps?


----------



## ThrashZone

Kashtan said:


> Thank you. Any numbers - i mean temps?


Hi,
So far Intel foundation copper plexi by a hair but cost is pretty large difference at 120.us
Oddly acetal copper is doing a little better than the copper nickle mag 

SigV2 is still running but doing very well atm.
First run 4.5 = min/ max 78-88c core spread that's about 2c lower than any mag run
Second run 4.6 = min/ max 77-88c core temp spread that too is 2c lower min is actually lower than mags

That's all I have atm
Next 4.7-4.8-4.9


----------



## sakete

Man, what a gorgeous looking block.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nickle yuck just kidding looks nice :thumb:


----------



## springs113

Looks like my trx40 block will be another long wait with all this stuff going on.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey folks, we're only slightly delayed because of coronavirus! We're making Threadripper blocks at this very moment. As long as we're not sick, we'll be making blocks. And as long as UPS/Fedex/horse still delivers, you'll get blocks. 

That said, we do use anodizers to finish the parts. Hopefully they stay open, but if anything serious happens, we'll update!

Pic is of Threadripper block frame freshly machined.


----------



## skupples

how bout those GPU blocks though? you said 6 weeks what feels like close to 6 weeks ago now.

gonna guess 3080ti gonna be out by the time they ship, at this point. =\

should'a put in $195 NV buy orders as well.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> how bout those GPU blocks though? you said 6 weeks what feels like close to 6 weeks ago now.
> 
> gonna guess 3080ti gonna be out by the time they ship, at this point. =\
> 
> should'a put in $195 NV buy orders as well.


That's an good idea. I would buy intel if it drops to pre-amd revival prices too. Supply chain issues (for both AMD/Intel) actually benefits Intel. Even if they can't compete with AMD, AMD can't meet demand (especially the server side) so assuming Intel 7nm arrives on time (late 2021) and performs like what normal good intel chips are and are new truly new architecture(should be since they got keller), they did not lose much overall.


----------



## skupples

all i know is there are only so many more cards the govt. can play before the market just HAS to drop. even after meeting everyone's best case scenario buy orders, it'll keep going down. 

(sucks for boomer retirement, epic for our future though)


----------



## Optimus WC

GPU blocks are getting made right after Threadripper. So next few weeks.


----------



## KedarWolf

MY one-day shipping was supposed to ship Friday, they ship it Monday, Tuesday it gets to Chicago, close to me in Toronto, Canada, clears customs, then they ship it to Kentucky early Wednesday morning.

I was so upset when I saw it was sent to Kentucky.

But it updated tonight, is in Toronto now, I'll get it Wednesday, and the UPS brokerage fee was only $11.30, plus the tax you always have to pay from other countries to Canada.

I never tried to find a place to pay the import tax myself as I'd have to travel on the transit and there is no office I could find near me to pay to avoid the brokerage fee.

Tomorrow, when it's out for delivery, I'm going to sign online, call UPS, have them contact the driver and tell them to buzz me when they get here and just drop it at the front door of the apartment. 

I'm not sick or anything but the driver will be relieved I'm reducing the risk.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Well here is the SigV2 verses black acetal ek copper nickle wasn't all that different 1c one way or another 4.5-4.8

Core temp spread shows mount is pretty good near if not at 10c apart from min max core temp spread 
SigV2 clearly is doing a lot better and 6c cooler at 4.8 
This is a modified SigV2 original didn't fit my chip all that well so I adjusted it's bow similar to the way ek uses shims to adjust their bow except I had to use sand paper so it was a little more difficult image shows where.

Room ambient 77f degrees average 76-78f degrees a/c on-off
Water temp max 34c
Fans full blast 8-ML140 push/ pull as well as 2-D5 pumps images are in system spec's along with gear list x299-9940x

Loop order 
EK D5 pump reservoir combo/ 280 GTX rad/ vrm block/ 280 GTX rad/ EK D5 Top/ CPU block/ GPU block.

Thermal paste hydronaut

Plan to retest both ek blocks again but as I said core temp spread 10c or within usually shows good contact.

I'm using 1.25v for 4.8 and avx offset to lower clocks to 4.7-4.6-4.5 to see how well these block handle voltage 
Obviously I'm not trying to find least amount of core voltage for each clock only least needed for 4.8 and stay stable enough for these tests
I'm also outlining effective clocks and max core temp on images and blue highlighted is coldest core

Blender Opendata long test is used freeware anyone can use it.
https://opendata.blender.org/

Test results


Spoiler















Adjusted SigV2


Spoiler


----------



## tistou77

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Well here is the SigV2 verses black acetal ek copper nickle wasn't all that different 1c one way or another 4.5-4.8
> 
> Core temp spread shows mount is pretty good near if not at 10c apart from min max core temp spread
> SigV2 clearly is doing a lot better and 6c cooler at 4.8
> This is a modified SigV2 original didn't fit my chip all that well so I adjusted it's bow similar to the way ek uses shims to adjust their bow except I had to use sand paper so it was a little more difficult image shows where.
> 
> Room ambient 77f degrees average 76-78f degrees a/c on-off
> Water temp max 34c
> Fans full blast 8-ML140 push/ pull as well as 2-D5 pumps images are in system spec's along with gear list x299-9940x
> 
> Loop order
> EK D5 pump reservoir combo/ 280 GTX rad/ vrm block/ 280 GTX rad/ EK D5 Top/ CPU block/ GPU block.
> 
> Thermal paste hydronaut
> 
> Plan to retest both ek blocks again but as I said core temp spread 10c or within usually shows good contact.
> 
> I'm using 1.25v for 4.8 and avx offset to lower clocks to 4.7-4.6-4.5 to see how well these block handle voltage
> Obviously I'm not trying to find least amount of core voltage for each clock only least needed for 4.8 and stay stable enough for these tests
> I'm also outlining effective clocks and max core temp on images and blue highlighted is coldest core
> 
> Blender Opendata long test is used freeware anyone can use it.
> https://opendata.blender.org/
> 
> Test results
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusted SigV2
> 
> 
> Spoiler



Thanks for your feedback
Grizzly past is better, then

Haven't you tested the Kryonaut (better than the Hydronaut) ?


----------



## ThrashZone

tistou77 said:


> Thanks for your feedback
> Grizzly past is better, then


Hi,
It's paste ek sent for testing think most use thermal grizzly kryonaut not hydronaut but it does seem a little more liquid than kryonaut
Better i usually use noctua nt-h1 as my go too
Prior tests optimus blocks against heatkiller 4 pro was mx4 2019 which wasn't too bad either.

Put the wrong test results on that posted edited with right one not sure what happened with that so your quote has the wrong test image 

Test image


Spoiler


----------



## zGunBLADEz

all cores 49x adaptive overclock 1.300 -0.010v offset -1 avx offset {440w of heat output}


Then after i saw my results i notched a better profile using per core.... if you want to fight with some cpus that have some core discrepancy like that be my guest... the discrepancy.. it also happens more pronounced when shooting higher voltages  (my 7940x doesnt suffer from this too much cores are withing 10c range) my 7980xe at the contrary have super cold cores and one single demon core that loves to be hot no matter what... this is a sustained 470w load too btw XD



this is 100% stable 24/7 XD


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Slick 
You on liquid metal now right ?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Slick
> You on liquid metal now right ?


yeah give it a shot.. its doing wonders here with the block.. the liquid metal fixed the dancing of the temps in here... problem is i need to cure both the ihs and the block till it drys out in copper surface/ihs inside and outside block too.. so is going to dry/merge fast..


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> yeah give it a shot.. its doing wonders here with the block..


Hi,
Yeah but you got the sigV2 flat now 
9940x is anything but flat but LM is just too risky for me anyway


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah but you got the sigV2 flat now
> 9940x is anything but flat but LM is just too risky for me anyway


well if you want the warranty i think so yeah.. it will eat away the lettering on the ihs.... i also used captains tape just in case around the cpu socket.. i tried to be very conservative in the application the less possible.. i just covered like 2/3 of the ihs with it and the block too


----------



## zGunBLADEz

also that core 14 is driving me to the edge to lap the die lol but this cpu is a good sample i dont want to mess it up like that bcuz of one core lol


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Got foundation and ek magnitude nickle comparison 
Foundation by 4c at 4.8

I'm going to eventually redo the magnitude tests again but dang it core temp spread say contact is okay :/

Same setup as posted here one page back
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-253.html#post28372270

Test image


Spoiler


----------



## zGunBLADEz

nice comparison..

so is as i presumed.... theres a certain threshold where a real performing block will see the gains.. this is around the 350w+ as heat ouput and upwards... 

Notice it between my blocks..


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> nice comparison..
> 
> so is as i presumed.... theres a certain threshold where a real performing block will see the gains.. this is around the 350w+ as heat ouput and upwards...
> 
> Notice it between my blocks..


Hi,
Foundation starts to loose it at 4.9 if that's what you mean where as sigV2 can keep going maybe to 5.0 1.35v which I have not tried 
SigV2 can do quite a bit at 4.9 with probably just a little more core voltage maybe 1.32v 

4.9 1.3 can do realbench/ classroom loop for an hour if I drop memory down to 3600 with the same timings for 4k. with no avx offset just a little wonky so I think it needs a little more core voltage.

Think Jp said 4.8 needed 1.28v top be bionic stable but 1.25v seems to be just fine for everything I've run.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Foundation starts to loose it at 4.9 if that's what you mean where as sigV2 can keep going maybe to 5.0 1.35v which I have not tried
> SigV2 can do quite a bit at 4.9 with probably just a little more core voltage maybe 1.32v
> 
> 4.9 1.3 can do realbench/ classroom loop for an hour if I drop memory down to 3600 with the same timings for 4k. with no avx offset just a little wonky so I think it needs a little more core voltage.
> 
> Think Jp said 4.8 needed 1.28v top be bionic stable but 1.25v seems to be just fine for everything I've run.


well, afraid if ambients are around 80f+ a good loop will cut it close to high 80s on a cpu like that with such voltage.. Thats why im a fanatic on adaptive overclocking on this cpus and having different profiles..

the bad shoots start around 1.260v+ and upwards theres no way in hell you can sustain a load like blender on a good loop with such overclocks without hitting 90s unless you cut HT OFF at 1.3v+ starts getting nasty and nasty lol

but between the ek and optimus you can see the optimus is the better performer on those high heat outputs

I have mine @ 4200 i needed less volts at 4000 but theres always that trade lol

i can run this cpu without ht with voltages like 1.4v 0 problems. cutting ht off will net you like -100-150w of heat


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yes ambient is a problem in Texas lol 9 months out of the year


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yes ambient is a problem in Texas lol 9 months out of the year



Only 9 months?


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Only 9 months?


Hi,
Probably 10 but i was being optimistic


----------



## BMDJag

Hi,

Just wondering if someone has a picture of the AM4 foundation block in their system? Trying to plan my build and not sure what block to get. Most pictures I see online are of the block unmounted and I dont think I saw any pics of it mounted in this thread (sorry alot of pages to go through). I am torn between the satin with acrylic top or the black with acrylic for my x570 Master.

Thanks


----------



## Section31

Actually there are couple, loop at my posts. I have posts of my builds using the Optimus Block.


----------



## KedarWolf

KedarWolf said:


> Just waiting on the Optimus Foundation waterblock for my 3950x to arrive, it's out for delivery.


Well, this sucks, my X570 Creation has much bigger holes than in the installation guide and the posts to mount the waterblock nearly slide though. No way I'll install it like that, I'll risk damaging the board.

I think I need the different install kit mentioned by a rep for us whose boards are incompatible.


----------



## ThrashZone

KedarWolf said:


> Well, this sucks, my X570 Creation has much bigger holes than in the installation guide and the posts to mount the waterblock nearly slide though. No way I'll install it like that, I'll risk damaging the board.
> 
> I think I need the different install kit mentioned by a rep for us whose boards are incompatible.


Hi,
Does that mean you need a back plate ?


----------



## sakete

I just installed the AM4 block, removed the backplate on the motherboard first. That's how we're supposed to do it right? The included instructions could be more explicit.


----------



## Keith Myers

My second AM4 Foundation block came with plastic washers to go on the studs and I used them. But in retrospect I should have just used the studs in the holes. The washers allow too much freedom in stud location that made it way too difficult to get the block over the studs for proper alignment.

My first block didn't come with washers and I just used them in the holes. Came close to being able to pass through the hole diameter but in the end they settled in the bores against the hole chamfers. The studs were correctly aligned to install the block with no issues. Quick and easy.


----------



## Optimus WC

We've started including large washers with the AMD blocks to handle those MSI holes. They should be included if you ordered direct from us, possibly PPCs has older blocks? If not, email us directly and we'll send you washers.


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> We've started including large washers with the AMD blocks to handle those MSI holes. They should be included if you ordered direct from us, possibly PPCs has older blocks? If not, email us directly and we'll send you washers.


Mine came with those washers. Seems to work well enough.


----------



## KedarWolf

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Does that mean you need a back plate ?


No, I found out through support I just need to use the washers provided.


----------



## Kana Chan

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Foundation starts to loose it at 4.9 if that's what you mean where as sigV2 can keep going maybe to 5.0 1.35v which I have not tried
> SigV2 can do quite a bit at 4.9 with probably just a little more core voltage maybe 1.32v
> 
> 4.9 1.3 can do realbench/ classroom loop for an hour if I drop memory down to 3600 with the same timings for 4k. with no avx offset just a little wonky so I think it needs a little more core voltage.
> 
> Think Jp said 4.8 needed 1.28v top be bionic stable but 1.25v seems to be just fine for everything I've run.


So is the Sig V2 outperforming the EK Mag in high wattage testing and in multi pump configurations?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Foundation starts to loose it at 4.9 if that's what you mean where as sigV2 can keep going maybe to 5.0 1.35v which I have not tried
> SigV2 can do quite a bit at 4.9 with probably just a little more core voltage maybe 1.32v
> 
> 4.9 1.3 can do realbench/ classroom loop for an hour if I drop memory down to 3600 with the same timings for 4k. with no avx offset just a little wonky so I think it needs a little more core voltage.
> 
> Think Jp said 4.8 needed 1.28v top be bionic stable but 1.25v seems to be just fine for everything I've run.


This is how ridiculous the temps i get without ht "is kind of chilly today aint gonna lie lol around 60f ambients still have alot of room for an ambient increase difference no problems" with 1.4v adaptive and -0.70v offset ((without HT)) 50x -1avx offset (still manages an 360w as heat output) HT alone off is a big load off out of this chip not only affecting the temps you get with ht on at similar package power heat output..
if you want to game right now for example or something that requires cores and high ipc...... i highly doubt you will need 36threads for example either alone 18 "PURE CORES" with no HT which are better than 8/16T cpus in any time of the day....


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah gaming HT is silly to use plus you disable security holes as well so win-win.


----------



## ThrashZone

Kana Chan said:


> So is the Sig V2 outperforming the EK Mag in high wattage testing and in multi pump configurations?


Hi,
There are at least three different ek magnitudes 
The two combinations I have 
Mag copper black acetal about 250.us
And ek sent a nickle top to simulate their top dog mag copper nickle about 300.us so all brass except cold plate which normal would be nickle cold plate not copper

But yes sigV2 180.us atm is beating both versions I have easily 
So is optimus foundation 120.us by a little less 3-4c instead of sigV2 5-6c lower max core temp at 4.8 and 1.25v
Also plexi nickle or copper about the same as acetal price

So very impressive on optimus side offering and lower price point for either 

EK has more options and easier adjustments for cold plate bow no doubt but at a hefty price tag and mount is not very good either 
Little hex wrench is a pain in the rump really need a 6-8" one so it's easier tighten 

Optimus mounting nuts are pretty easy to get too no springs to deal with.... far better system too.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah gaming HT is silly to use plus you disable security holes as well so win-win.


look at this one.. 

no ht, same settings as previous but raised the offset to -2 avx *got a bit iffy when i saw 520w+ and over 320amps of pull* and thats why you dont use p95 latest or any for that matter.. the highest the amps pull the more chances to mess up the cpu thats when you can say bye bye to your cpu and welcome quick degradation ....

48x its like 1.25v when the vid goes down from 1.330v on my setup on adaptive thats p95 avx512 disable rest is on..


----------



## Optimus WC

zGunBLADEz said:


> look at this one..
> 
> no ht, same settings as previous but raised the offset to -2 avx *got a bit iffy when i saw 520w+ and over 320amps of pull* and thats why you dont use p95 latest or any for that matter.. the highest the amps pull the more chances to mess up the cpu thats when you can say bye bye to your cpu and welcome quick degradation ....
> 
> 48x its like 1.25v when the vid goes down from 1.330v on my setup on adaptive thats p95 avx512 disable rest is on..


Lol, so about to trip circuit breakers and not going over 80c? Nice


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Lol, so about to trip circuit breakers and not going over 80c? Nice


Hi,
You'd have to look more at the environment still cool but super freaked


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Optimus WC said:


> Lol, so about to trip circuit breakers and not going over 80c? Nice


yeah that one was over the 1khw+ by itself the spikes are the nastiest ones when using p95 latest with avx offsets thats why i raised it to -2avx.. here i was telling myself im going to be more careful and put more realistic tests and here i go and shoot loads like that "knowingly too they are {not bueno}"..

funny tho you see some cores chilling like it aint crap..... lol lapping that die looks more and more appealing when i see this tests lol.. like i told you too many variables between heat source and block itself... block aint the issue perse..

btw, im 100% digging your signature lol... ek may differ from it tho


----------



## criskoe

This seems to be the only Distilled water I can get my hands on where I’m at. 

It says it’s distilled but it’s also Ozonated. Ingredients say : Distilled Water, Ozone.

Is this gunna be a problem? What’s do you guys think?


----------



## Optimus WC

All good. I use tap water on occasion. Like, household plumbing parts are fine for tap. Why not liquid cooling? Best not to run tap for the long run, but if you're flushing or testing, that distilled water is 100% fine.


----------



## qes27

criskoe said:


> This seems to be the only Distilled water I can get my hands on where I’m at.
> 
> It says it’s distilled but it’s also Ozonated. Ingredients say : Distilled Water, Ozone.
> 
> Is this gunna be a problem? What’s do you guys think?


Ozination is a process intended to kill microbes. It's just bubbling Ozone (O3) through the water for a period of time. Any O3 will have long since evaporated out of the water.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Steam distilled so sound like regular distilled I get at local wally world.


----------



## JustinThyme

criskoe said:


> This seems to be the only Distilled water I can get my hands on where I’m at.
> 
> It says it’s distilled but it’s also Ozonated. Ingredients say : Distilled Water, Ozone.
> 
> Is this gunna be a problem? What’s do you guys think?


Damn Bruh, distilled water is easy to come by here. Right about now cant find a single bottle of the yuppie water but super markets have gallons upon gallons of distilled water for less than $1 USD. i generally buy 4-5 gallons at a time for flushing coolant loops and feeding my cigar humidors. Also use it when I do auto coolant flushes as the premix coolant is twice as much as the concentrate when the only other ingredient is distilled water. Also use it in clothes iron so i don't get deposits in it.


----------



## criskoe

JustinThyme said:


> Damn Bruh, distilled water is easy to come by here. Right about now cant find a single bottle of the yuppie water but super markets have gallons upon gallons of distilled water for less than $1 USD. i generally buy 4-5 gallons at a time for flushing coolant loops and feeding my cigar humidors. Also use it when I do auto coolant flushes as the premix coolant is twice as much as the concentrate when the only other ingredient is distilled water. Also use it in clothes iron so i don't get deposits in it.


Honestly my guess is where I’m at it’s mainly a seniors area. Folks might be stocking up for their cpap machines or something. I don’t know. Usually there is a ton of it. I as well do concentrate dexcool/distilled mix myself. Sounds like this distilled ozonated water I got for now is fine tho. According to the brands website is says “We distill water by boiling it at low, energy-saving pressures, collecting the condensed steam, then filtering it to eliminate particles... leaving us with pure, pristine H2O.

Sounds good to me.


----------



## coccosoids

@OptimusWC are the foundation blocks available for purchase anywhere in Europe?


----------



## zervun

@OptimusWC Is there an update on when the threadripper blocks will be shipping out?


----------



## tistou77

coccosoids said:


> @OptimusWC are the foundation blocks available for purchase anywhere in Europe?


Still not, that's why I took the EKWB, 
But UPS has decided to keep the parcel in its depot for the moment (whereas every day I see UPS trucks passing in front of my house)


----------



## sakete

Well, it works  another happy Foundation owner here.


----------



## Optimus WC

Updates! So we're still making Threadripper and will be shipping hopefully this week. Some of our partners for finishing and anodizing (we don't do that in house) will hopefully stay open, but it is causing some delays. 

For Threadripper, the first blocks that will ship will be copper with either clear acrylic or black acetal tops. And either black or silver frames. If you preordered, you can change your order if you want all black or to get the block faster (if you ordered nicke0L. 

Shipping is weird because of the covid chaos. So things aren't exactly normal. But when were they ever?

Also, in case you heard that Chicago businesses that aren't essential are shut down. Good news, our office is still open because parts for ventilators and hospital bed hydraulics are made at our facility. Some of our fittings will be delayed because of it (anything round, really). 

EU distribution and the like is all on hold until life gets a little more sane again. 

But we'll be working to get blocks out the door as long as people are still feeling well!


----------



## speed_demon

Very neat. Is your office normally open for people to visit the facility/store? You're not too far from me so that'd be a cool trip in a few months when things calm down.

Also if you ever want to get into anodizing parts yourselves it's a pretty straightforward process. I had some buddies teach me and they're currently doing the same for NASA for repair parts. It's one of the things you can do a great job of with a little practice and doesn't take up too much room.


----------



## Optimus WC

speed_demon said:


> Very neat. Is your office open for people to visit the facility/store? You're not too far from me so that'd be a cool trip in a few months when things calm down.
> 
> Also if you ever want to get into anodizing parts yourselves it's a pretty straightforward process. I had some buddies teach me and they're currently doing the same for NASA for repair parts. It's one of the things you can do a great job of with a little practice and doesn't take up too much room.


Not yet, but we'll definitely be open for tours in the future! Prob later this year. 

For anodizing, very cool! We'll def do it in house or, more likely, switch to a full paint system so that all our fittings, blocks, etc. can match. Right now, we can't anodize brass/nickel/copper (obv). And everything will be automated  So much right now is simply human labor to assemble and ship blocks, that's where the entire holdup is. We're working on expanding in every way, it just takes time and covid really didn't help.


----------



## sakete

What's are some good ways to load up my cpu? Want to test temps.


----------



## KedarWolf

sakete said:


> What's are some good ways to load up my cpu? Want to test temps.


Cinebench R20 is a good test for temps. Looping Cinebench for 300 seconds great temp and stability test. 

For stability, but low temps, try Linpack Xtreme 1.1.2 and for memory, HCI Memtest Pro. In Linpack, if all your residuals are all the same it's good. 

For HCI MemTest Pro, see here. Best way to run it. 

https://www.overclock.net/forum/10-...memory-stability-thread-315.html#post28375910


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> What's are some good ways to load up my cpu? Want to test temps.


 @KedarWolf Pointed out some excellent Options.

Another Test That I love to use for its consistency is "Y-Cruncher". Specifically the BBP Stress Test. If you disable all other Tests leaving only BBP Enabled, and then set the Pass time to 5 Minutes, then Run it, it will consistently hit your CPU with an AVX2 Workload that will really push your Temperatures to the max Consistently, at the end of the 5 Minute Pass, it will automatically start again until you end the test, giving the CPU about 2 seconds to cool off between each pass. If you can Pass 30 Minutes of this then you are usually pretty close to stable. Definitely stable enough to play games, but will need further testing with other tools to ensure you are 100 Percent Rock Solid if Overclocking.

It doesn't hit the CPU as hard as Small FFT's in Prime 95 with AVX, but it will push it harder then a Blender or CB R20 Workload.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> speed_demon said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very neat. Is your office open for people to visit the facility/store? You're not too far from me so that'd be a cool trip in a few months when things calm down.
> 
> Also if you ever want to get into anodizing parts yourselves it's a pretty straightforward process. I had some buddies teach me and they're currently doing the same for NASA for repair parts. It's one of the things you can do a great job of with a little practice and doesn't take up too much room.
> 
> 
> 
> Not yet, but we'll definitely be open for tours in the future! Prob later this year.
> 
> For anodizing, very cool! We'll def do it in house or, more likely, switch to a full paint system so that all our fittings, blocks, etc. can match. Right now, we can't anodize brass/nickel/copper (obv). And everything will be automated /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif So much right now is simply human labor to assemble and ship blocks, that's where the entire holdup is. We're working on expanding in every way, it just takes time and covid really didn't help.
Click to expand...

Hey optimus, I just put in order for two foundation am4 blocks, is it possible to put in the optional mounting kit thanks. The virus means i will have to put in fittings orders with the gpu waterblock in that case


----------



## sakete

KedarWolf said:


> Cinebench R20 is a good test for temps. Looping Cinebench for 300 seconds great temp and stability test.
> 
> For stability, but low temps, try Linpack Xtreme 1.1.2 and for memory, HCI Memtest Pro. In Linpack, if all your residuals are all the same it's good.
> 
> For HCI MemTest Pro, see here. Best way to run it.
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/10-...memory-stability-thread-315.html#post28375910


Thanks, it hit temps of 75C running Cinebench for 300 secs. Not sure if that's good or bad for the 3900X, and I never did test Cinebench on my Noctua NH-D15 air cooler. But nice that my radiator fans barely spun up. No overclock yet, these are all stock settings.


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Thanks, it hit temps of 75C running Cinebench for 300 secs. Not sure if that's good or bad for the 3900X, and I never did test Cinebench on my Noctua NH-D15 air cooler. But nice that my radiator fans barely spun up. No overclock yet, these are all stock settings.


Because you are on Stock Settings 75c is Right in line with what the Boost Algorithm will do. Pretty much, as long as the load is heavy enough, under stock settings and an All Core CB R20 Run you will hit at least 75c pretty much no matter which cooler you have. The Difference is with a better cooler your Clocks will boost higher under load, and with a worse cooler you will get closer to 80c while have lower clocks. Because of the way the Boost Algorithm works, its hard to compare temps because your clocks and voltage are varied depending on the cooling.

If you wanted to compare coolers you would need to lock in your Voltage and then run the test again, and then you can get a better idea of how well your cooler is holding up. Hopefully that makes sense.

However that said, 75c is definitely a good result and is definitely on the Lower end of what you would achieve at stock CB R20 on a 3900x, what will be more telling though is how high your All Core Boost Held during that load. It was almost certainly higher then it would have been with your Noctua.


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> Because you are on Stock Settings 75c is Right in line with what the Boost Algorithm will do. Pretty much, as long as the load is heavy enough, under stock settings and an All Core CB R20 Run you will hit at least 75c pretty much no matter which cooler you have. The Difference is with a better cooler your Clocks will boost higher under load, and with a worse cooler you will get closer to 80c while have lower clocks. Because of the way the Boost Algorithm works, its hard to compare temps because your clocks and voltage are varied depending on the cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> If you wanted to compare coolers you would need to lock in your Voltage and then run the test again, and then you can get a better idea of how well your cooler is holding up. Hopefully that makes sense.
> 
> 
> 
> However that said, 75c is definitely a good result and is definitely on the Lower end of what you would achieve at stock CB R20 on a 3900x, what will be more telling though is how high your All Core Boost Held during that load. It was almost certainly higher then it would have been with your Noctua.


Where can I see what my All Core Boost was doing? I'm still familiarizing myself with the zen2 architecture.

Will this show up in something like HWinfo, or do I need to use Ryzen Master?


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Where can I see what my All Core Boost was doing? I'm still familiarizing myself with the zen2 architecture.
> 
> Will this show up in something like HWinfo, or do I need to use Ryzen Master?


In my humble opinion, you should forget that Ryzen Master Exists and Rely on HWinfo. Its much more accurate and gives you much more information.

To be fair, Ryzen Master is a decent tool, and it does give you accurate information, its just calculated as an average, but they don't tell you how long the data is averaged for, and how that is balanced against the 2 CCD's and IO Die. HWinfo just gives you the individual temps, and gives you a real-time measurement, and then allows you to average it if you wish, and gives you control over how exactly you want it averaged.

But RM Can be a useful tool, I see a lot of people on here do use it to collect information about their CPU, which is totally valid. I just find that I can get all the info I need from HWinfo, and will generally only ever open RM when I am taking screenshots to show people my Memory Settings.

I would definitely stay away from it for Overclocking, as it tends to change BIOS Settings without telling you, and that pisses me off. But thats up to you, you may find more value in it.

To answer your question though, yes, you can look at HWinfo while running a CB run, and look at each Core's clock speed to see what Frequency they are running at during an all core load. I find it useful to go into task manager and setting HWinfo to a "High Priority" so that it actually feeds you up to date information during the test. Otherwise CB will use all your clock cycles and will only allow HWinfo to update infrequently during the test. However, keep in mind that will lower your CB Score, so I only do that when the goal is to see how my Chip is performing, and when actually trying to achieve a high score I will close HWinfo and literally everything else, which will allow you to achieve a higher score.

Hope this helps.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

you guys need to stay away from p95... amd avx is not that fast on amd so less heat eventually it will catch on... as bad habits dont go away that easy this and Y cruncher i would not recommend other than to test on very mild overclocks and even that i still not recommend it... stick to rog bench and blender


----------



## Glerox

Optimus WC said:


> If you preordered, you can change your order if you want all black or to get the block faster (if you ordered nicke0L.


I preordered nickel, how much longer it's gonna take vs copper?

Is there a big difference between copper and nickel?

Thanks!


----------



## Jpmboy

Glerox said:


> I preordered nickel, how much longer it's gonna take vs copper?
> 
> Is there a big difference between copper and nickel?
> 
> Thanks!


nickel is better - more resistant to staining and oxidation effects.


----------



## covidsux

Glerox said:


> I preordered nickel, how much longer it's gonna take vs copper?
> 
> Is there a big difference between copper and nickel?
> 
> Thanks!


From what I've read the blocks are primarily made out of brass not copper
Only item that is copper is the base and it can be nickle plated too.


----------



## sakete

covidsux said:


> From what I've read the blocks are primarily made out of brass not copper
> 
> Only item that is copper is the base and it can be nickle plated too.


I thought the whole cold plate is made of copper or nickel plated copper. And then the rest of the block is brass. But the part that matters most, the cold plate that has all the cooling fins, should be made of pure copper / nickel plated copper.

Otherwise I think copper should perform slightly better than nickel plated copper in terms of cooling, but copper will start to oxidize. That's purely cosmetic, and shouldn't affect cooling performance. Nickel does not oxidize and will keep looking pretty.


----------



## covidsux

covidsux said:


> From what I've read the blocks are primarily made out of brass not copper
> *Only item that is copper is the base and it can be nickle plated too*.





sakete said:


> I thought the whole cold plate is made of copper or nickel plated copper. And then the rest of the block is brass. But the part that matters most,* the cold plate that has all the cooling fins, should be made of pure copper / nickel plated copper.*
> 
> Otherwise I think copper should perform slightly better than nickel plated copper in terms of cooling, but copper will start to oxidize. That's purely cosmetic, and shouldn't affect cooling performance. Nickel does not oxidize and will keep looking pretty.


That's what I said
You called it a cold plate I called it the base either way yes that part is the only one made of copper.

Ultra fine cooling fins with coating, seems no coating would cool a little better.


----------



## sakete

covidsux said:


> That's what I said
> You called it a cold plate I called it the base either way yes that part is the only one made of copper.
> 
> Ultra fine cooling fins with coating, seems no coating would cool a little better.


To me "base" sounds more like the thing the cold plate gets attached to.


----------



## skupples

sakete said:


> I thought the whole cold plate is made of copper or nickel plated copper. And then the rest of the block is brass. But the part that matters most, the cold plate that has all the cooling fins, should be made of pure copper / nickel plated copper.
> 
> Otherwise I think copper should perform slightly better than nickel plated copper in terms of cooling, but copper will start to oxidize. That's purely cosmetic, and shouldn't affect cooling performance. Nickel does not oxidize and will keep looking pretty.


negligible differences between nickel plated copper.

if you got super science mode, bet it would be less than half a degree, if at all. its microns thin.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Shouldn't be much difference of a performance difference 
I prefer copper cold plates but that's just me 

At this point just waiting time is the difference 
But what messes up copper or brass will also mess up nickle plating otherwise there is no mixed metal deal with bare copper or brass use good fluid and you're good to go.

EK blocks are mostly bare brass parts from my disassembly of a copper acetal copper cold plate/ brass water jet insert/ aluminum mounting bracket


Optimus just nickles everything which the sigV2 is only two parts the top and the cold plate 
Foundation three parts, Plexi top or nickle top mount is aluminum and cold plate can be either copper or nickle.


----------



## skupples

well damn, we all know EK nickel is cosmetic, but that's just silly. partial plating on the top?!? Wish I could upgrade the bottom of my Ivy bridge all copper supremacy to something nice & new.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> well damn, we all know EK nickel is cosmetic, but that's just silly. partial plating on the top?!? Wish I could upgrade the bottom of my Ivy bridge all copper supremacy to something nice & new.


Hi,
Nope my bad the entire top is nickle plated inside and out
The water jet insert is brass but that came with a black acetal copper cold plate version so may be why it wasn't nickle too.

All nickle magnitude maybe all nickle even the water jet I don't know but their plexi nickle is all nickle.


----------



## KedarWolf

Heated up my AMD Foundation waterblock with my 3950x CPU with Cinebench, shutdown PC immediately, then loosened the screws on the waterblock just enough I could slide it around a bit without losing contact.

Moved it around for 30 seconds respreading the Grizzly Kryonaut, tightened the screws tight, but not enough to bow the motherboard.

Reran Cinebench with these voltages, on one push-pull 360 radiator.

Got these temps.

On my 24/7 daily driver settings, Linpack Xtreme and HCI Memtest Pro stable.


----------



## JustinThyme

Cheese and rice do we really have to go there? Nickel platings primary purpose is, has, and always be to prevent oxidation of copper or anything it’s used to plate. The mix of other materials in the plating are for cosmetics. Pure copper will not only turn brown, it it stays around long enough it will turn green and start growing things. Shiny nickel plated copper often is made shiny by the introduction of tin which can can have dire consequences as the tin separates from the mix and will literally grow tin hair. Aka tin whiskers, google it. I’ve watched it’s destruction as when a particular UPS went to being made in India they cheaped out on the plating of the buss work by introducing tin into the mix. By the time it was discovered what they were doing the damage was done. Hundreds of millions lost over these little “whiskers” growing out and shorting across high voltage ended that product line literally with a BANG!!

Nickel plating, when done correctly without BS added in to be cheap, will protect the copper. Any thermal or electrical conductance difference when new would have to be done with instrumentation capable of measuring gnat spermatozoa. 

The good thing about nickel? It prevents oxidation and is friendly with all metals. The funk that will gather on the inside of your system regardless of what you put in there will eventually have a thermal impact. Thing is most of us rarely keep things in service that long. Most of the time you see your coolant go cloudy it due to oxidation. You see nickel plating turning loose and flaking......someone got cheap in their plating process and added in other metals. Nickel cost is far higher than that of copper. Right now about 6x as much. 

When viewed from the power industry perspective the picture is much clearer. If you want cheap and shiny Chrome is a better option but talk about screwing up conductivity.

The all nickel magnitude is in fact all nickel plated inside and out except the o rings and stainless jet plates.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I've seen more screwed up nickle plating than copper 
Don't want green on copper make sure there is no air in your blocks oops and radiators :doh:


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I've seen more screwed up nickle plating than copper
> Don't want green on copper make sure there is no air in your blocks oops and radiators :doh:


lol somebody is really surfing this forums as lately right steve?






remember the red copper type looking that i mention on the ek topic well thats what he ended with lol

theres not...... i will expend all this money on this machine and it will do all the job for me type of deal..

cheapo way to do that with same effects boil your copper piece on water with vinegar you will end with similar results but faster and way cheaper...

you still need some elbow grease to polish the copper. 
i do not recommend using mothers inside where the fin area is... if you dont know how to get the residue off that the mother cream leave without reverting to boiling it again lol "red looking copper piece again"... but it will clean it spotless and shiny copper like it aint nothing lol

as you dont want that residue mothers cream leave inside your loop.. alot of bare cleaning with alcohol/water after to remove the protective layer and residues from the fins..
thats why i prefer copper easiest metal to clean in this circunstances... now nickel... well dont use mothers IN ANY PLATED metal surfaces.. XD
also, if the nickel is bad ((cough EK cough)) when you using cleaning methods like toothpaste and brush etc you are eating away the plating little by little and all it takes is a little "microscopic" / "imperfection" entrance to the bare copper/brass and it will mess it up just like that eventually..

you can also clean the stuff with electrolysis but now thats more complicated ""maybe dangerous process"" lol






now if you really love your block that much you can plate this yourself.. this is a summary on howto..





you can also remove the plating if is messed up XD


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Air does that 
Two months of evaporation upside down water block where air is at the highest point with the copper block in his case it turned black plexi helped this process notice the other non-plexi block looked like new 
He could of buffed it out after an alcohol bath.


----------



## Jpmboy

lol - I use mothers polish all the time for the billet aluminum on this:


----------



## KCDC

So I have Kryonaut and NT-H1. About to swap CPUs. After skimming through some pages here, seems like most of you would choose NT-H1 over Kryonaut, correct? For a 10940x. Planned on doing a pea drop and not spread.


----------



## ThrashZone

KCDC said:


> So I have Kryonaut and NT-H1. About to swap CPUs. After skimming through some pages here, seems like most of you would choose NT-H1 over Kryonaut, correct? For a 10940x. Planned on doing a pea drop and not spread.


Hi,
I use nt-h1 love it 
I do a X about the size of a nickle though spreads much better than a pea


----------



## KCDC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I use nt-h1 love it
> I do a X about the size of a nickle though spreads much better than a pea
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4


 Copy, thx man.


----------



## ThrashZone

KCDC said:


> Copy, thx man.


Hi,
Here's what an X method does needs a hair more pressure on the bottom but otherwise spread well.


Spoiler


----------



## KCDC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Here's what an X method does needs a hair more pressure on the bottom but otherwise spread well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler


I'm having issues just trying to OC this thing currently. Just repasted so I know it's not that since the one I re-did had an even spread. I never get golden chips! hah


----------



## ThrashZone

KCDC said:


> I'm having issues just trying to OC this thing currently. Just repasted so I know it's not that since the one I re-did had an even spread. I never get golden chips! hah


Hi,
The Jpmboy was saying 9900x was a defect many died even his 
He got a refund if you can believe it Intel has no more 9900x's instock or reserve you'd also get a refund if you rma


----------



## KCDC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> The Jpmboy was saying 9900x was a defect many died even his
> He got a refund if you can believe it Intel has no more 9900x's instock or reserve you'd also get a refund if you rma


This is for a new 10940x, changing sig now


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Okay guess cascade lake has it's own can of worms from the chatter on elmor's thread


----------



## KCDC

What a surprise


----------



## ThrashZone

KCDC said:


> What a surprise


Hi,
Think it's mostly adaptive and or offset core voltage gets exaggerated 
Just have to use manual override :/


----------



## KCDC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Think it's mostly adaptive and or offset core voltage gets exaggerated
> Just have to use manual override :/


gonna respond in the skylake-x thread on this.


----------



## tistou77

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I use nt-h1 love it
> I do a X about the size of a nickle though spreads much better than a pea
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4


I use "spread method", maybe test "X (cross) method" the next time


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
EK mag nickle did better yesterday morning than the original run 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...r-block-information-discussion-thread-26.html

Still 3c hotter than sigV2 though at 4.8 opendata long test of course



Spoiler


----------



## tatmMRKIV

no one uses toothbrushes to clean their blocks? really? its not hard to get in the fins and clean there with a few toothbrushes...


----------



## ciarlatano

tatmMRKIV said:


> no one uses toothbrushes to clean their blocks? really? its not hard to get in the fins and clean there with a few toothbrushes...


Toothbrush and a razor blade can get every nook.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Who said they don't use a tooth brush to clean water blocks ?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

zGunBLADEz said:


> lol somebody is really surfing this forums as lately right steve?
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-sv6CE9wybI
> 
> remember the red copper type looking that i mention on the ek topic well thats what he ended with lol
> 
> theres not...... i will expend all this money on this machine and it will do all the job for me type of deal..
> 
> cheapo way to do that with same effects boil your copper piece on water with vinegar you will end with similar results but faster and way cheaper...
> 
> you still need some elbow grease to polish the copper.
> i do not recommend using mothers inside where the fin area is... if you dont know how to get the residue off that the mother cream leave without reverting to boiling it again lol "red looking copper piece again"... but it will clean it spotless and shiny copper like it aint nothing lol
> 
> as you dont want that residue mothers cream leave inside your loop.. alot of bare cleaning with alcohol/water after to remove the protective layer and residues from the fins..
> thats why i prefer copper easiest metal to clean in this circunstances... now nickel... well dont use mothers IN ANY PLATED metal surfaces.. XD
> also, if the nickel is bad ((cough EK cough)) when you using cleaning methods like toothpaste and brush etc you are eating away the plating little by little and all it takes is a little "microscopic" / "imperfection" entrance to the bare copper/brass and it will mess it up just like that eventually..
> 
> you can also clean the stuff with electrolysis but now thats more complicated ""maybe dangerous process"" lol
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUVdIKNX2P8
> 
> 
> now if you really love your block that much you can plate this yourself.. this is a summary on howto..
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-PtnwtOR24
> 
> you can also remove the plating if is messed up XD


"i do not recommend using mothers inside where the fin area is..."

Im just responding to this bit


----------



## ciarlatano

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> EK mag nickle did better yesterday morning than the original run
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...r-block-information-discussion-thread-26.html
> 
> Still 3c hotter than sigV2 though at 4.8 opendata long test of course


Foundation is still the block to buy given the price/quality/performance. The V2 is nice if you don't mind spending for the very best despite modest gains.....the Magnitude is a no go in my eyes - too expensive, and nothing about it warrants it.


----------



## ThrashZone

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> EK mag nickle did better yesterday morning than the original run
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...r-block-information-discussion-thread-26.html
> 
> Still 3c hotter than sigV2 though at 4.8 opendata long test of course
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler





ciarlatano said:


> Foundation is still the block to buy given the price/quality/performance. The V2 is nice if you don't mind spending for the very best despite modest gains.....the Magnitude is a no go in my eyes - too expensive, and nothing about it warrants it.


Hi,
Spoiler didn't get added with your quote with the newer ek magnitude test inside spoiler with 3c gains

Foundation prior test is also still 1c cooler at 4.8 shown on the link below even with mag's new test at 4.8
Got the foundation hooked back up and is an awesome value for 120.us verses either ek offering 210.us cheapest and 300.us+ highest for indeed what so far I don't see it.

Optimus blocks so far just work especially the foundation 
As most know the sigV2 I did alter to fit my chip so it mounts very nicely now
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...mation-discussion-thread-26.html#post28372540


----------



## criskoe

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Spoiler didn't get added with your quote with the newer ek magnitude test inside spoiler with 3c gains
> 
> Foundation prior test is also still 1c cooler at 4.8 shown on the link below even with mag's new test at 4.8
> Got the foundation hooked back up and is an awesome value for 120.us verses either ek offering 210.us cheapest and 300.us+ highest for indeed what so far I don't see it.
> 
> Optimus blocks so far just work especially the foundation
> As most know the sigV2 I did alter to fit my chip so it mounts very nicely now
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...mation-discussion-thread-26.html#post28372540


What were the temp differences with the sigv2 stock as shipped vs sigv2 modified?


----------



## ThrashZone

criskoe said:


> What were the temp differences with the sigv2 stock as shipped vs sigv2 modified?


Hi,
Night and day lol 
SigV2 was a fail without the alteration shown by the sand paper marks here and the brass showing


Spoiler














Foundation mounted without any issues

Similar to the issues I had with ek magnitude stock mount = fail without alterations

I had to use a bitspower summit mount without springs to get the results as good as they are now but had to hose the ek mounting bracket to use the bitspower mount.


----------



## criskoe

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Night and day lol
> SigV2 was a fail without the alteration shown by the sand paper marks here and the brass showing
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Similar to the issues I had with ek magnitude stock mount = fail without alterations
> 
> I had to use a bitspower summit mount without springs to get the results as good as they are now but had to hose the ek mounting bracket to use the bitspower mount.


You think shaving the jet plate a bit more on the mag would change anything for you?


----------



## skupples

why do you have to grind all your blocks down again? bare die issues?


----------



## ThrashZone

criskoe said:


> You think shaving the jet plate a bit more on the mag would change anything for you?


Hi,
EK doesn't make a 0.4 shim I think I just found it's limits frankly 
Testing core temperature spread is optimum within 10c apart from max coolest core and max hottest core 
You can't ask for better 



skupples said:


> why do you have to grind all your blocks down again? bare die issues?


Hi,
I haven't grind all my blocks just sigV2 to lower it's bow by about 1/32" similar to how ek uses shims to lower it's cold plate bow I had to use sand paper to do it on the sigV2.

EK mounting bracket I did have to grind some off the it to use a different mount because the default wasn't working at all.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

tatmMRKIV said:


> no one uses toothbrushes to clean their blocks? really? its not hard to get in the fins and clean there with a few toothbrushes...


idk you but i have seen a bunch of people cleaning their stuff with a toothbrush "es" or is the plural police you attacking XD then keep going XD


btw mothers cream is a "thing" you know


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I believe you've said at least a few times not to use mothers on plated materials.


----------



## JustinThyme

criskoe said:


> What were the temp differences with the sigv2 stock as shipped vs sigv2 modified?


Mine as shipped without springs worked great. First springless Mount was just taking the springs out. No grinding, cutting reconfiguring necessary and I’m fairly certain my temps are a bit better than Thrashes. Mine is the full nickel version. 10-12C spread with AVX workloads 14 cores at 4.8GHz 1.225 Vcore and no AVX offset. Max 80C after multiple 30 minute runs with 24C ambient.


----------



## KedarWolf

My 3950x at 1.25v, VDDGs at .950v, VDDP at .900v, memory at 1.45v, with my AMD Foundation while looping Cinibench my temps hover around 60C in HWInfo.

I used the spread method with a drop of thermal paste on each of the three chiplet areas, then heated up the block and CPU with Cinebench, shut down immediately. 

Then I loosened the block screws without losing contact, moved the block around slightly to respread the Grizzly Kryonaut, tightened the screws enough I never bowed the board. Have those temps.


----------



## JustinThyme

KedarWolf said:


> My 3950x at 1.25v, VDDGs at .950v, VDDP at .900v, memory at 1.45v, with my AMD Foundation while looping Cinibench my temps hover around 60C in HWInfo.
> 
> I used the spread method with a drop of thermal paste on each of the three chiplet areas, then heated up the block and CPU with Cinebench, shut down immediately.
> 
> Then I loosened the block screws without losing contact, moved the block around slightly to respread the Grizzly Kryonaut, tightened the screws enough I never bowed the board. Have those temps.


Yeah that’s my favorite method with Kryonaut. Run it hot, loosen screws just enough to move the block ever so slightly, re torque mounts and let her rip. You should note that In 24-48 hours temps will get even better as it sets and cures. Good stuff. One step down from LM.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I believe you've said at least a few times not to use mothers on plated materials.


I did its on the warning itself in bare copper its not an issue tho xD

Same as toothbrush "es" xD and toothpaste... Same ordeal lol.


----------



## KCDC

Maybe I've been "spreading" paste wrong my entire life but having a new mobo out of the case, using the Noctua goop with a credit card, I got an even layer in no time. I couldn't do this with Kryonaut however I was trying that with the mobo in case vertical with their flappy spatula and a bunch of stuff in the way. Was pasting it like a hole in drywall since I couldn't get it to just spread. Used a pea drop of NT-H1 like I usually do and did the spread... has a better consistency for spreading and now my cores seem to be a lot closer in temps. Gues I am pleased with that since when I used to do the spread for workstations and servers back in the old days it was not fun. Still running more stressing on this Encore, but I can now drop my 49 down to 1.290 which was 1.30. Did a few runs at 50 1.32 with cinebench but crashed eventually. Realbench @ 1.335 wasnt happy either. Fine with 49 1.29. This sig V2 is a delight.



Also, this is what I guess was in my loop after a couple months of running the V2. Seems more like tarnish than gunk when I was toothbrushing it, no actual blockage. Running detergent as we speak, primochill reboot since I'm lazy and need this back up in the morning.


----------



## KedarWolf

KCDC said:


> Maybe I've been "spreading" paste wrong my entire life but having a new mobo out of the case, using the Noctua goop with a credit card, I got an even layer in no time. I couldn't do this with Kryonaut however I was trying that with the mobo in case vertical with their flappy spatula and a bunch of stuff in the way. Was pasting it like a hole in drywall since I couldn't get it to just spread. Used a pea drop of NT-H1 like I usually do and did the spread... has a better consistency for spreading and now my cores seem to be a lot closer in temps. Gues I am pleased with that since when I used to do the spread for workstations and servers back in the old days it was not fun. Still running more stressing on this Encore, but I can now drop my 49 down to 1.290 which was 1.30. Did a few runs at 50 1.32 with cinebench but crashed eventually. Realbench @ 1.335 wasnt happy either. Fine with 49 1.29. This sig V2 is a delight.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, this is what I guess was in my loop after a couple months of running the V2. Seems more like tarnish than gunk when I was toothbrushing it, no actual blockage. Running detergent as we speak, primochill reboot since I'm lazy and need this back up in the morning.


Before I added the three drops on top of my chiplet areas on my 3950X, I used a surgical glove with no powder on it and spread the Kryonaut thinly over the entire CPU.


----------



## ThrashZone

KCDC said:


> Maybe I've been "spreading" paste wrong my entire life but having a new mobo out of the case, using the Noctua goop with a credit card, I got an even layer in no time. I couldn't do this with Kryonaut however I was trying that with the mobo in case vertical with their flappy spatula and a bunch of stuff in the way. Was pasting it like a hole in drywall since I couldn't get it to just spread. Used a pea drop of NT-H1 like I usually do and did the spread... has a better consistency for spreading and now my cores seem to be a lot closer in temps. Gues I am pleased with that since when I used to do the spread for workstations and servers back in the old days it was not fun. Still running more stressing on this Encore, but I can now drop my 49 down to 1.290 which was 1.30. Did a few runs at 50 1.32 with cinebench but crashed eventually. Realbench @ 1.335 wasnt happy either. Fine with 49 1.29. This sig V2 is a delight.
> 
> Also, this is what I guess was in my loop after a couple months of running the V2. Seems more like tarnish than gunk when I was toothbrushing it, no actual blockage. Running detergent as we speak, primochill reboot since I'm lazy and need this back up in the morning.


Hi,
SigV2 doesn't get any sun light or light at all seeing it has no plexi so yeah you need to get some real fluid man no reason for that to happen enclosed.
Only other way it might happen that fast is if there is air pocket from sitting for a while copper wet/ dry tarnish.


----------



## ThrashZone

ciarlatano said:


> Foundation is still the block to buy given the price/quality/performance. The V2 is nice if you don't mind spending for the very best despite modest gains.....the Magnitude is a no go in my eyes - too expensive, and nothing about it warrants it.


Hi,
Never put the two together but here they are foundation 1c cooler at 4.8 against the ek top dog mag nickle 
120.us verses 300.us+- depending on where you get it.


Spoiler


----------



## ciarlatano

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Never put the two together but here they are foundation 1c cooler at 4.8 against the ek top dog mag nickle
> 120.us verses 300.us+- depending on where you get it.


Yup, that was exactly my point. Let's even call them equal performance. You would have to be one hard up EK fan boy to buy a Magnitude over a Foundation. And when they start crying "oh! the restriction!"....well, you could buy a Foundation *AND* another D5 or DDC and still be at a significant savings over buying a Magnitude....heck, you may even be able to buy two more pumps if you find a deal. ::insert the ROTFLMAO emoji here::


----------



## tatmMRKIV

zGunBLADEz said:


> lol somebody is really surfing this forums as lately right steve?
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-sv6CE9wybI
> 
> remember the red copper type looking that i mention on the ek topic well thats what he ended with lol
> 
> theres not...... i will expend all this money on this machine and it will do all the job for me type of deal..
> 
> cheapo way to do that with same effects boil your copper piece on water with vinegar you will end with similar results but faster and way cheaper...
> 
> you still need some elbow grease to polish the copper.
> i do not recommend using mothers inside where the fin area is... if you dont know how to get the residue off that the mother cream leave without reverting to boiling it again lol "red looking copper piece again"... but it will clean it spotless and shiny copper like it aint nothing lol
> 
> as you dont want that residue mothers cream leave inside your loop.. alot of bare cleaning with alcohol/water after to remove the protective layer and residues from the fins..
> thats why i prefer copper easiest metal to clean in this circunstances... now nickel... well dont use mothers IN ANY PLATED metal surfaces.. XD
> also, if the nickel is bad ((cough EK cough)) when you using cleaning methods like toothpaste and brush etc you are eating away the plating little by little and all it takes is a little "microscopic" / "imperfection" entrance to the bare copper/brass and it will mess it up just like that eventually..
> 
> you can also clean the stuff with electrolysis but now thats more complicated ""maybe dangerous process"" lol
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUVdIKNX2P8
> 
> 
> now if you really love your block that much you can plate this yourself.. this is a summary on howto..
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-PtnwtOR24
> 
> you can also remove the plating if is messed up XD





zGunBLADEz said:


> I did its on the warning itself in bare copper its not an issue tho xD
> 
> Same as * toothbrush "es" * xD and toothpaste... Same ordeal lol.


what the heck is your problem why are you trying to stir some crap...
DROP IT


----------



## KCDC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> SigV2 doesn't get any sun light or light at all seeing it has no plexi so yeah you need to get some real fluid man no reason for that to happen enclosed.
> Only other way it might happen that fast is if there is air pocket from sitting for a while copper wet/ dry tarnish.



Yeah I'm not sure, maybe from o-rings? Been running only distilled for years now.


----------



## skupples

running pure distilled has its down sides. like, slowly eating your loop, and growing stuff, if copper sulphate levels aren't high enough from radiators/blocks.

Aquacomputer or Mayhems Clear are both work wonders, specially if you like to leave your coolant as is for years on end. stuff should come out looking new, with a slight patina. otherwise, people are causing unnecessary strain and wear on components, simply because some old timer told them coolants are a scam.

no no no. most coolants are a scam. thus, make your own, or buy from the only two companies capable of keeping quality coolant in stock.


----------



## KCDC

skupples said:


> running pure distilled has its down sides. like, slowly eating your loop, and growing stuff, if copper sulphate levels aren't high enough from radiators/blocks.



I'm using biocide


----------



## skupples

for your picture - probably just dirt, dust, and grime. channels become more effective filters as the channels get small enough to trap single grains of dust n sand.

balance isn't as big of an issue in a pure copper loop, as long as nothing's growing.


----------



## ThrashZone

KCDC said:


> Yeah I'm not sure, maybe from o-rings? Been running only distilled for years now.





KCDC said:


> I'm using biocide


Hi,
What type of biocide the promo chill reboot stuff you mentioned ?
I've never used it personally I use mayhems inhibitor+ & biocide+ with distilled on x99 
x299 I'm on x1 clear everything looks new.

If it's o-ring streaking I've not seen either of mine do that.


----------



## KCDC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> What type of biocide the promo chill reboot stuff you mentioned ?
> I've never used it personally I use mayhems inhibitor+ & biocide+ with distilled on x99
> x299 I'm on x1 clear everything looks new.
> 
> If it's o-ring streaking I've not seen either of mine do that.



I had this reboot lying around, supposed to clean stuff so I am running it then flushing it out.



Biocide I've been using is Utopia, none of my other blocks got this coloring, I'm not really concerned it's not making anything worse. I don't think epdm tubing would cause it, maybe its in my rads?


----------



## ThrashZone

KCDC said:


> I had this reboot lying around, supposed to clean stuff so I am running it then flushing it out.
> 
> 
> 
> Biocide I've been using is Utopia, none of my other blocks got this coloring, I'm not really concerned it's not making anything worse. I don't think epdm tubing would cause it, maybe its in my rads?


Hi,
Only time I've seen gasket streaks was with ek evo plexi it streaked they also do it on ek gpu blocks too.


----------



## skupples

KCDC said:


> I had this reboot lying around, supposed to clean stuff so I am running it then flushing it out.
> 
> 
> 
> Biocide I've been using is Utopia, none of my other blocks got this coloring, I'm not really concerned it's not making anything worse. I don't think epdm tubing would cause it, maybe its in my rads?


honestly, all that old stuff is truly snake oil tier. 

upgrade to mayhem's X1 or + series drops (soon to be a combined 1 drop solution) 

only issue with the drops is they don't inhibit evap like X1 does.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah I'd be using x1 clear on x99 but it turned greenish and so I flushed out again and just did the mayhems + products and cheap local distilled and all good so far been 4-6 months I believe still clear.
Always find out quirks after the fact that x1 clear has a 50-50% chance of turning green using hardware labs rads x299-x99 both have them :/


----------



## KCDC

Aight, just liked it was easy, drop a bottle in a gallon of distilled and good. been using it for years without visible issues. I've got some mayhems around somewhere


----------



## skupples

its that good good copper they use  

(no clue if this is an accurate statement)


----------



## Jpmboy

KCDC said:


> Maybe I've been "spreading" paste wrong my entire life but having a new mobo out of the case, using the Noctua goop with a credit card, I got an even layer in no time. I couldn't do this with Kryonaut however I was trying that with the mobo in case vertical with their flappy spatula and a bunch of stuff in the way. Was pasting it like a hole in drywall since I couldn't get it to just spread. Used a pea drop of NT-H1 like I usually do and did the spread... has a better consistency for spreading and now my cores seem to be a lot closer in temps. Gues I am pleased with that since when I used to do the spread for workstations and servers back in the old days it was not fun. Still running more stressing on this Encore, but I can now drop my 49 down to 1.290 which was 1.30. Did a few runs at 50 1.32 with cinebench but crashed eventually. Realbench @ 1.335 wasnt happy either. Fine with 49 1.29. This sig V2 is a delight.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, this is what I guess was in my loop after a couple months of running the V2. Seems more like tarnish than gunk when I was toothbrushing it, no actual blockage. Running detergent as we speak, primochill reboot since I'm lazy and need this back up in the morning.


Just brush the fins. The rest is fairly regular stuff you'll find with copper in the average loop. Unless you purge the O2 and seal the loop (eg, like done with AIOs, well some AIOs) you will see these variations with contact surfaces. DW + biocide has never been one of my favorites (cause there is NO pH control). Unless you are into bufferes and such, just use a premix. Aquacomputer Double Protect has always been good in my loops.
*But daaum bro*, you are really gobering on the TIM. That looks like enough for 3 mounts to me.


----------



## KCDC

Jpmboy said:


> Just brush the fins. The rest is fairly regular stuff you'll find with copper in the average loop. Unless you purge the O2 and seal the loop (eg, like done with AIOs, well some AIOs) you will see these variations with contact surfaces. DW + biocide has never been one of my favorites (cause there is NO pH control). Unless you are into bufferes and such, just use a premix. Aquacomputer Double Protect has always been good in my loops.
> *But daaum bro*, you are really gobering on the TIM. That looks like enough for 3 mounts to me.



Haha, I mean I used the pea size and just spread it all over until it was covered. I'll do better next time


----------



## skupples

woah woah woah! JP!!! 

IDK if i've ever seen you advocate for someone else's coolant aside from JPM's Garage Brew.

i've had my head in the sand for too long.



KCDC said:


> Haha, I mean I used the pea size and just spread it all over until it was covered. I'll do better next time


gonna have a ton of seep. probably good somewhere in between.


----------



## Jpmboy

KCDC said:


> Haha, I mean I used the pea size and just spread it all over until it was covered. I'll do better next time


You might find it best (and easier) to allow the block to do the spreading for you. When you manually spread it, you can get small air pockets trapped that don't get squeezed out. an X or a Pea dosen't matter, just let the two contact surfaces do the work (like you'd do with a flange gasket, or "form-a-gasket").



skupples said:


> woah woah woah! JP!!!
> IDK if i've ever seen you advocate for someone else's coolant aside from JPM's Garage Brew.
> i've had my head in the sand for too long.


lol - I still use home brew in several loops (probably because I'm too lazy to flush and fill all these loops  ... but they don't need it ). Just easier to explain... nothing wrong with _some _premixes.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah I was thinking my X method was often way too much timm


Spoiler


----------



## KCDC

I always normally let the block do the spread, but for some reason with this one, it never goes fully over the TIM, I meant to take a pic, a large portion of one of the corners was completely untouched, it's why I said screw it ill spread this time. My temps are now evenly spread when doing full load. 7-10c+ differences before. Maybe its the bow in the block or IHS? idk. I'll try less next time. Pleased with temps as they currently are.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah if you spread timm maybe do it like corsair and spread it on the block not the chip so at least the timm might stay on the block instead of dropping into the socket


----------



## Papazmurf

I used to swear by the dot and/or line method. However on these HEDT chips, I was really struggling to get even core spread with thermals. I now spread the TIM with a plastic card on every mount as it gives me the most consistent results. 

Also, the instructions in the Kyronaut package say to spread. Why bother putting a how to and not mention other methods, unless Thermal Grizzly thinks it's that much better of a process. That was my logic anyways, and anecdotally it has held true. It's more of a pain in the ass to get a good spread than putting a dot or line, but imo it's worth it for every mount.


----------



## skupples

just depends on the chip for me. mainstream doesn't need it. giant server chips, definitely need it.


----------



## KedarWolf

Papazmurf said:


> I used to swear by the dot and/or line method. However on these HEDT chips, I was really struggling to get even core spread with thermals. I now spread the TIM with a plastic card on every mount as it gives me the most consistent results.
> 
> Also, the instructions in the Kyronaut package say to spread. Why bother putting a how to and not mention other methods, unless Thermal Grizzly thinks it's that much better of a process. That was my logic anyways, and anecdotally it has held true. It's more of a pain in the ass to get a good spread than putting a dot or line, but imo it's worth it for every mount.


With Kryonaut peeps might want to try spreading it thinly with non-powdered surgical gloves, tighten block, run RealBench a few minutes, heat the TIM up, shut down immediately, loosen the screws on the block until you can just move it without losing contact, slide it around in every direction 30 seconds, tighten screws again, TIM on entire CPU IHS. 

I did that on my 3950X except I also put a small drop of Kryonaut over each of the three chiplet areas.

At LLC3, 1.2625v CPU, 1.45v RAM, .1.1125 VOC, .950 VDDG's and .900v VDDP, with one 360 RAD and an Optimus Foundation CPU block, I hover around 60C while looping Cinebench


----------



## ciarlatano

KedarWolf said:


> With Kryonaut peeps ......


My favorite flavor! Just in time for Easter! But, marshmallow is really messy to use as TIM.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Out of the box EK acetal or nickle tops were fails even after several mounts 
First render hitting 93c 
Only way to keep ek blocks in the game was to alter it's mount not using the springs and using a bitspower summit mount I had that is skinny enough to get though ek narrow holes in it's mounting bracket 









Tried a different timm application worked great oddly on both modified ek and non-modified foundation 

Did a thin coat on both the chip and on the cold plate got acetal to foundation older results level too
Unfortunate for acetal same application of timm got foundation to sigV2 temps I'm wondering now what it's going to do for sigV2 and nickle top

I really love the foundation out of the box big winner didn't have to anything it just works thermal grizzly hydronaut is growing on me too !

Same setup as these two prior runs 4.5-4.8 blender opendata full long test manual 1.25v

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...r-block-information-discussion-thread-26.html

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...mation-discussion-thread-30.html#post28379742


----------



## Zurv

Any updates on the water blocks?


----------



## criskoe

Zurv said:


> Any updates on the water blocks?


Aside from watercooling gear they make medical equipment. I’m pretty sure they make components for ventilators. My guess that’s their number 1 priority right now as it should be. I doubt people that have pre orders wanna hear that but hopefully people can understand and wait a bit longer.


----------



## skupples

yeah they said something about the factories they get their fittings made in being converted to making vent fittings.

they did not state anything getting in the way of block milling though. they said AMD blocks are churning as we speak, then supposedly GPUs. 

it'll be nice to quietly game into the apocalypse.


----------



## qes27

criskoe said:


> Aside from watercooling gear they make medical equipment. I’m pretty sure they make components for ventilators. My guess that’s their number 1 priority right now as it should be. I doubt people that have pre orders wanna hear that but hopefully people can understand and wait a bit longer.





skupples said:


> yeah they said something about the factories they get their fittings made in being converted to making vent fittings.
> 
> they did not state anything getting in the way of block milling though. they said AMD blocks are churning as we speak, then supposedly GPUs.
> 
> it'll be nice to quietly game into the apocalypse.


This was their last substantive update:



Optimus WC said:


> Updates! So we're still making Threadripper and will be shipping hopefully this week. Some of our partners for finishing and anodizing (we don't do that in house) will hopefully stay open, but it is causing some delays.
> 
> For Threadripper, the first blocks that will ship will be copper with either clear acrylic or black acetal tops. And either black or silver frames. If you preordered, you can change your order if you want all black or to get the block faster (if you ordered nicke0L.
> 
> Shipping is weird because of the covid chaos. So things aren't exactly normal. But when were they ever?
> 
> Also, in case you heard that Chicago businesses that aren't essential are shut down. Good news, our office is still open because parts for ventilators and hospital bed hydraulics are made at our facility. Some of our fittings will be delayed because of it (anything round, really).
> 
> EU distribution and the like is all on hold until life gets a little more sane again.
> 
> But we'll be working to get blocks out the door as long as people are still feeling well!


Made at their facility - not sure if that means they make them or share equipment or space with others, but it sounded like they were still working on the blocks and hoping they might ship the TR's last week - that didn't happen but maybe not too much longer, for the non-plated, non-anodized versions anyway.


----------



## skupples

shared equipment. 

you say "I need 100 of these made!" and the business that ACTUALLY makes them says "cool story, but COVID, so we're only making Government grade fittings"


----------



## qes27

skupples said:


> shared equipment.
> 
> you say "I need 100 of these made!" and the business that ACTUALLY makes them says "cool story, but COVID, so we're only making Government grade fittings"


Yes, they did say there was a conflict with round fittings specifically, and the third-party plating and anodizing. The possibly good news for those waiting on TR blocks is that Optimus doesn't need to make any round fittings to wrap those up and ship them out.



Optimus WC said:


> ... So much right now is simply human labor to assemble and ship blocks, that's where the entire holdup is.


That was their very last update, so hopefully - they seem to say anyway - that manufacturing isn't the hold up at this point, aside from plating and anodizing.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
If anyone wants to correspond [email protected] goes directly to dah man


----------



## Mxj1

I recently got my block - it took about two weeks to ship, and a few more days once it did.

I'm quite happy with the block... though the mounting leaves a bit to be desired imo. I don't understand why there was a move away from a mechanism that utilizes a back plate. I ended up using some other water block mounting hardware with springs and studs to retain the back plate.


----------



## KCDC

Originally I posted that my temp spread being pretty tight after the re-paste. Well, after a full day of design and rendering work, I decided to do a few CB runs after closing all my apps down. Water temp around 31c when I started, pump always at full 4800. Looks like my spread is back to where it was based off my max in coretemp. Might try a better TIM apply or just live with this. This is at 4900 1.295v, ignore current freq in pic.


----------



## JustinThyme

KCDC said:


> Originally I posted that my temp spread being pretty tight after the re-paste. Well, after a full day of design and rendering work, I decided to do a few CB runs after closing all my apps down. Water temp around 31c when I started, pump always at full 4800. Looks like my spread is back to where it was based off my max in coretemp. Might try a better TIM apply or just live with this. This is at 4900 1.295v, ignore current freq in pic.


What TIM are you using?


----------



## KCDC

JustinThyme said:


> What TIM are you using?



This time it's NT-H1, did a spread that was LOL'd at by JPMboy. Too thick.



Before I did a kryonaut pea that didnt squeeze enough on the TIM, big corner wasn't hit.


Plan to be more patient and even this time with my spread. I think there's a lot of curvature going on that I'm not used to.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> yeah they said something about the factories they get their fittings made in being converted to making vent fittings.
> 
> they did not state anything getting in the way of block milling though. they said AMD blocks are churning as we speak, then supposedly GPUs.
> 
> it'll be nice to quietly game into the apocalypse.


That's good. I am less concerned about them surviving this crisis. The one i worry about is EKWB as they seem all into watercooling.


----------



## JustinThyme

KCDC said:


> This time it's NT-H1, did a spread that was LOL'd at by JPMboy. Too thick.
> 
> 
> 
> Before I did a kryonaut pea that didnt squeeze enough on the TIM, big corner wasn't hit.
> 
> 
> Plan to be more patient and even this time with my spread. I think there's a lot of curvature going on that I'm not used to.


I’ve learned over the last week or two that a good even thin spread is the trick with the newer blocks. I miss the old days where everything was flat!


----------



## KedarWolf

KCDC said:


> This time it's NT-H1, did a spread that was LOL'd at by JPMboy. Too thick.
> 
> 
> 
> Before I did a kryonaut pea that didnt squeeze enough on the TIM, big corner wasn't hit.
> 
> 
> Plan to be more patient and even this time with my spread. I think there's a lot of curvature going on that I'm not used to.


My trick is to grab a pair on surgical rubber gloves from work, non-powdered, spread the TIM on the CPU with a finger wearing the glove, place the block on CPU, tighten.

Next, heat up CPU and block with Cinebench, shutdown immediately, loosen block enough so it moves around without losing contact, slide it in every direction 30 seconds, retighten screws, done!!

The only thing I did differently on my 3950x was placing a small drop over each of the three chiplet areas as well.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

KCDC said:


> This time it's NT-H1, did a spread that was LOL'd at by JPMboy. Too thick.
> 
> 
> 
> Before I did a kryonaut pea that didnt squeeze enough on the TIM, big corner wasn't hit.
> 
> 
> Plan to be more patient and even this time with my spread. I think there's a lot of curvature going on that I'm not used to.


lol, he always on that.. look at my LM application for example and compare that to the rest you see around..
Thats all you need to do a good job with lm....
im still using the same qtip with previous first application to spread the lm between dies and ihs still have leftovers for days...


this thing have more liquid metal than my ihs top/bottom and die and probably up to 5-10 more applications lol










also remember most blocks dont touch the whole ihs even if they do as long as you have the actual die area covered you good to go.. I also stopped buying kryonaut and changed to NT-H1 instead. You can get 10grams for less than $15 bucks and is a good performing paste.. All my tests here were done with that it dont dry, it last its viscous you dont need that much..


----------



## skupples

its kinda like loves diapers commercials.

first you buy LM, then you buy LM and stop throwing away the qtip.


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> its kinda like loves diapers commercials.
> 
> first you buy LM, then you buy LM and stop throwing away the qtip.


Friggin disposable diapers. Half of what’s in landfills. I was raised in cotton and both of my kids were too. Spend the same on a weeks supply on either. Only difference is the cotton you only spend it once. I don’t want my kids getting rash but not gonna set them up to be all comfy when they piss their pants either. That’s not a good thing. May as well marked high capacity depends at the power drinkers so they don’t have to get up and lost their seat at the bar!


----------



## skupples

i wouldn't be surprised if some career drunks do exactly that.


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> i wouldn't be surprised if some career drunks do exactly that.


Nah, they just piss their pants, shrug their shoulders and order another pitcher, no glass needed. 

After being married to one for a few years I don’t have much tolerance for people that get that inebriated. A few here and there, OK. When your first stop after work is the liquor store then you go to get food with whats left over if anything.......something just isn’t right with that picture. Had another working for me for a short time. Had to pick him up every day even though there was a vehicle in the driveway. Figured maybe it was broke down. Asked me on first day at the end of the day if I could front him a little cash on his first paycheck. I’m like OK then he wants to stop at a strip mall. Goes in and comes back out with 1/2 gallon of Southern Comfort. Just shook my head. Two days later he wants me to stop again. I’m like dude, you just bought 1/2 gallon 48 hours ago! He gets all pissy with me yelling that how much he drinks is none of my damn business. I didn’t say another word. He got out, as soon as he was inside I figured it was none of my business how he was gonna get home or to work the next day. Never saw or heard from him again. Called it even and put the cash payment down as his two days pay with payroll taxes deducted. 


Now back on topic I wonder how well everclear would work as a Biocide? Hell maybe even 100% as coolant if it doesn’t eat up your seals.


----------



## skupples

junkies will be junkies, and unfortunately, the program has inflated drunks into thinking they're different. nope. not in any way, shape or form. enjoy the self pickling. by the way, the sickest people I've ever seen are those coming off of booze. Even heroin addicts have a better go of it, while coming off.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> Now back on topic I wonder how well everclear would work as a Biocide? Hell maybe even 100% as coolant if it doesn’t eat up your seals.



About the same as pure alcohol would work I would assume. Depends on what proof it is I guess. That 190 proof is almost pure alcohol


----------



## skupples

i mean, Mayhem's X1 definitely smells like cheep hooch...


----------



## Shawnb99

I’m going to put an EK O-ring into a bowl of 99% iso and see how well it holds up. 
If it doesn’t eat it away I would assume it would work on the loop, ignoring any cheap nickel plating of course I can see that flaking off.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

testing my main loop now XD

Let it prime for about an 1hr with just 3x240s worth of rad space and a D5 at level 3....

Then i turned my external Phobya 1260 @ D5/L3 then turned the main D5 at L5. External D5 dont intervene with main loop when at L3 as its connected in parallel to the middle 240 rad just enough power to carry water from out to in radiator ...

nice drop for just the cpu alone... The 2x1080tis gpus benefit the most when i turn the external rad they get over 15c+ drops

Still some air pockets/bubbles in there :/


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Boy this thread went to the crapper then to skidrow or is it skidmark row 

But yes mx4 does remind me of runny baby crap 

All I know is nt-h2 is a complete waste not sure how noctua messed that stuff up :/


----------



## Section31

Anyone see BP new hard tube fittings. Apparently they did major change to there locking mechanism.


----------



## ciarlatano

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Boy this thread went to the crapper then to skidrow or is it skidmark row /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> But yes mx4 does remind me of runny baby crap /forum/images/smilies/eek.gif
> 
> All I know is nt-h2 is a complete waste not sure how noctua messed that stuff up :/


How so? I got great results with it, and it was very easy to use.


----------



## ThrashZone

ciarlatano said:


> How so? I got great results with it, and it was very easy to use.


Hi,
Air seems to set to fast dry although it comes out fairly wet 
I couldn't even spread it after 1-2 minutes didn't stay on cpu weird stuff way different than nt-h1 my favorite still :/


----------



## Shawnb99

Any word on the dual pump? It's been awhile since I last asked


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Any word on the dual pump? It's been awhile since I last asked


Hi,
Ditto.


----------



## KCDC

KedarWolf said:


> My trick is to grab a pair on surgical rubber gloves from work, non-powdered, spread the TIM on the CPU with a finger wearing the glove, place the block on CPU, tighten.
> 
> Next, heat up CPU and block with Cinebench, shutdown immediately, loosen block enough so it moves around without losing contact, slide it in every direction 30 seconds, retighten screws, done!!
> 
> The only thing I did differently on my 3950x was placing a small drop over each of the three chiplet areas as well.



I'll try this as well once I have downtime if I can find gloves.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah rubber gloves is a hard find now days


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Modified sigV2 verses modified ek magnitude 
Still sigV2 by 4c at 4.8 :thumb:


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Modified sigV2 verses modified ek magnitude
> Still sigV2 by 4c at 4.8 :thumb:


What’s the difference in the modifications, as in what was done to each block. Was there more or less convexity added/removed and what’s the dimensional change of convexity from center point radially out? Any changes in pressure drop?

Unmodified an run as intended my manufacturer I have both within 1C.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
SigV2 was a heck of a lot easy and faster.
Pretty much same as changing shims on ek mag just using sand paper instead on sigV2.

Mag was never ending and still merger if any gains but did get closer than first runs 93c at first render lol fail at least now it's 90c after all runs 

Tweak it or swap it for a foundation


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah rubber gloves is a hard find now days


Condom on ...... your.........finger will work too! Maybe one of those baby rubber tips like bank tellers used before the days of automated bill counters


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> SigV2 was a heck of a lot easy and faster.
> Pretty much same as changing shims on ek mag just using sand paper instead on sigV2.
> 
> Mag was never ending and still merger if any gains but did get closer than first runs 93c at first render lol fail at least now it's 90c after all runs
> 
> Tweak it or swap it for a foundation


Why would I want to to that when my SigV2 out if the box shows better thermal performance? Than any posted up foundation that runs the same cold plate....or is it different?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Not that I noticed it took you a long time to seat sigV2 well and just stopped running opendata long to avoid seeing the way different core spread which again shows bad contact.


----------



## JustinThyme

Yes it was the springs. I get the same out of open data long as I do 30 Mins of classroom blender or Barcelona and a damn site better that AIDA64 LOL. As soon as I tossed the springs and found the right TIM and application method on that block it was all good. Took me longer on the MAG. Who would think the X pattern that irked in one wouldn’t work in the other. Pea in the middle on the mag. Even spread didn’t work on either. 

Simple question. Your runs vs mine? Who has the lowest max core? Hell id rather them all flatten out to my coldest but I’m actually surprised those cores stay that cool with the same load. 

I think that’s more a characteristic of the two different core samples. I got the same thing out of 4 different blocks and those are on the favored core list and actually run higher with simple tasks. That core 0 is always the warmest until I crank up the heavy loads then it’s seldom past 70C more like 68C. Like I said, wish all 14 cores did the same as those 4 colder cores that lag behind 8-10 C from the avg of the other 10. I’ve said it more than once, once I settle in on a block and put this all back together. I’m gonna go by core and use those cold cores as an advantage. I’ll post those up later. 


All I got done today was spring service on My Fatboy and a little back country road cruising. Still a bit chilly though. Back when I was young buck I rode 24x7 365. Didn’t even own a cage. Mid 30s and finding out the secret to the universe. Cold sucks, wet sucks, cold and wet REALLY Sucks. Also not much hurts worse than being a jacka$$ blowing down a black top at 100mph in a no helmet state then the worst storm of the year drops on your head out of nowhere! Those fat ran drops hurt damn near as bad as the big a$$ dragon fly I took took in the forehead right after! Could be before so the rain could wash that yellow goop off of my forehead and riding goggles.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Highest max core really is water loop and ambient thing who ever is lowest will likely win 

Also I'm running higher core voltage than you are approximently 0.25v at the least at 4.9 1.3v when I run it plus probably many other voltage settings mine are higher 
I use a benchmark profile not a power saver profile so yes just on that I'm going to run hotter because I'm pushing the cpu harder.

Doubt the 3x360 rad will be any miracle worker but sure wont hurt even if it keeps water at 30c instead of 32-33c... 2x280GTX rads are just okay nothing exceptional just all I could fit.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Highest max core really is water loop and ambient thing who ever is lowest will likely win
> 
> Also I'm running higher core voltage than you are approximently 0.25v at the least at 4.9 1.3v when I run it plus probably many other voltage settings mine are higher
> I use a benchmark profile not a power saver profile so yes just on that I'm going to run hotter because I'm pushing the cpu harder.
> 
> Doubt the 3x360 rad will be any miracle worker but sure wont hurt even if it keeps water at 30c instead of 32-33c... 2x280GTX rads are just okay nothing exceptional just all I could fit.


Again, down to chip specifics. I don’t run 1.3v. 1.295 is the highest I’ve ever run it to get 5.1GHz out of it. 4.9 is like 1.250 for me. Yes 280 GTX rads might be an arguing point if all I ran the benches off of was something other than a single EK480x45 PE which actually has less surface area and lower performance than a GTX. 

Maybe because I was running off of a box top? If that’s it then I’ll chunk the Enthoo Elite and stick to the box as it’s much cheaper as in free.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Do your 4.8 clock and run 3DMark free time spy version just look at your cpu score after see what it is compared to mine which is 16044 at 4.8
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/36819463


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Do your 4.8 clock and run 3DMark free time spy version just look at your cpu score after see what it is compared to mine which is 16044 at 4.8
> https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/36819463


We can get into that later. I’m in the middle of tear down and rebuild to get everything back in my case. I told you we can do a show down that this is about heat transfer. I’ve not even done “cheats” like diagnostic start up. Etc. These runs are with everything running in the background, no services disabled etc. 

I don’t have the free edition, I have the paid edition. Lemme look at what my last run has me at at in CPU score. I generally don’t run a GPU test for my CPU but the overall score is in the 25K range #1 compared with similar CPU.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I don't have any cheats or special reg to disable everything just simple 10 pro.
Free or pain version just regular time spy when ever doesn't matter it's just an example of settings differences between us.
I did that one June 2019 on tuf mark 2.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I don't have any cheats or special reg to disable everything just simple 10 pro.
> Free or pain version just regular time spy when ever doesn't matter it's just an example of settings differences between us.
> I did that one June 2019 on tuf mark 2.


So different chip and different cooler?

I know you said you recently rmad your chip. 

We can do a separate thread once DasBeast afterbirth has been put back together. I’d rather do a CPU specific benchmark and compare notes on settings etc. maybe we can learn a trick or two old fart vs older fart.

I know before this came about we were pretty much neck to neck in CB.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
No need for another thread just do the benchmark and post on the benchmark thread 
Mine are already there.


----------



## JustinThyme

Are you referring to the Timespy benchthread where I’ll take the 2 spot?

I’f were going CPU against CPU we should really use something more CPU specific. I know I have an unfair advantage on GPUs.

You don’t wanna compare notes? On what’s what?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah that and or fire strike which ever 
GPU aside I just want to see the cpu score at 4.8.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah that and or fire strike which ever
> GPU aside I just want to see the cpu score at 4.8.


Realbench 2.46 is free DL from ROG.
Run that and see what you get. My last run was around 340K.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Realbench 2.46 is free DL from ROG.
> Run that and see what you get. My last run was around 340K.


Hi,
Heavy multitasking and Encoding about the only cpu parts.


----------



## JustinThyme

Image processing and openCL are also use CPU but the Open CL will also use GPU. You can also do a Luxmark only bench and check the CPU only. 

I’ll give you a little help to up that open CL. 
Download intel openCL drivers.


----------



## sdmf74

Surprised to see you guys are using nth1 isnt that stuff is ancient, also surprised no mention of gelid extreme, I've always had really good luck with it & kryonaut of course.

Anyway I'm getting ready to use mayhems biocide+ and inhibitor+ for the first time & noticed a couple mentions of it in this thread, have you guys had good luck with it & is it safe on nickel plated blocks? Mayhems makes no mention of nickel.
Also how much are you supposed to use with DW?


----------



## ThrashZone

sdmf74 said:


> Surprised to see you guys are using nth1 isnt that stuff is ancient, also surprised no mention of gelid extreme, I've always had really good luck with it & kryonaut of course.
> Anyway I'm getting ready to use mayhems biocide+ and inhibitor+ for the first time & noticed a couple mentions of it in this thread, have you guys had good luck with it?
> And how much are you supposed to use with DW?


Hi,
NT-H1 rules 
I use the mayhem products on x99 system x1 clear premix on x299
3-4 drops of each per 1 liter of distilled water technically it say 0.5ml on performance pc website 
https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...ives/mayhems-inhibitorplus-15ml-minh15ml.html
Check ph level every month to see if ph7 is still happening if not add couple more of inhibitor+



> Mayhems Inhibitor+ Comes in 15ml bottle and has a mix ration of 0.5% (so 15mls is enough to make 30 Ltrs of Coolant).


----------



## JustinThyme

sdmf74 said:


> Surprised to see you guys are using nth1 isnt that stuff is ancient, also surprised no mention of gelid extreme, I've always had really good luck with it & kryonaut of course.
> 
> Anyway I'm getting ready to use mayhems biocide+ and inhibitor+ for the first time & noticed a couple mentions of it in this thread, have you guys had good luck with it & is it safe on nickel plated blocks? Mayhems makes no mention of nickel.
> Also how much are you supposed to use with DW?


TIM is a matter of preference. I’m a Kryonaut user myself and MX-4 for other uses as mentioned several posts back. 

My coolant of choice is Mayhems Pastel Red premix for a few years now and not had any issues. I do however do annual maintenance where I drain out the old, send it down the sewer via toilet flush and run distilled only for an hour or so, drain that and flush then run fill it back up, run for a day and flush it down the drain then refill with fresh coolant. A few things from my experience....silver coils are a marketing gimmick and don’t do jack....and biggest mistake I made was running the “show” coolant with mica in it. Namely mayhems aurora. The Mica will eventually drop out of the solution and lodge everywhere you don’t want it to. Ended up having to completely disassemble everything and clean and flush the crap out of rads to get rid of it. All else of you just want to run distilled water and mayhems biocides I’ve seen no issues at all.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Only bad thing about distilled water ..++ is evaporation 
So you could see a water level drop of 1/4-1/2" a month in your reservoir 
Where as evaporation is a lot slower if at all on premix.


----------



## Mxj1

sdmf74 said:


> Anyway I'm getting ready to use mayhems biocide+ and inhibitor+ for the first time & noticed a couple mentions of it in this thread, have you guys had good luck with it & is it safe on nickel plated blocks? Mayhems makes no mention of nickel.
> Also how much are you supposed to use with DW?


When I contacted Mayhems to confirm if the old biocide was compatible with nickel, I was told "Your['re] better off with Biocide plus." 

I've been using this combination for a month or so and I'm happy with it. 

The instructions for ratio can be found on the respective product pages.

Biocide+

Inhibitor+


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I asked watercool here no reported issues ever with their nickle plating 
Ask ek and you might get a different reply which purely states purpose fluids or premix and biocide is acid for growth prevention 

Basically biocide should be used just not in excess 
Inhibitor+ is for corrosion and ph balance 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...fficial-heatkiller-club-429.html#post28363164


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Only bad thing about distilled water ..++ is evaporation
> So you could see a water level drop of 1/4-1/2" a month in your reservoir
> Where as evaporation is a lot slower if at all on premix.


Evaporation rates are highly dependent on whats being used for plumbing. Flex tubing is permeable and will evaporate. Hardline it and evaporation is pretty much nil.


----------



## sdmf74

Great info! I'm coming up with about 10 drops of each since its .5ml so I think I will go with that or just use an ejuice syringe to measure the exact .5ml suggested by Mayhems.

Also I might mix up a liter or 2 with 5% or 10% of PG to hopefully combat evap. Not sure if that will be enough but it might have the side effect of slightly lubing the pump and at those amounts shouldnt have a negative heat transfer effect on the distilled water.
EDIT: still undecided on adding the PG. Someone suggested that the pg could damage the acrylic reservoir


----------



## sdmf74

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I asked watercool here no reported issues ever with their nickle plating
> Ask ek and you might get a different reply which purely states purpose fluids or premix and biocide is acid for growth prevention
> 
> Basically biocide should be used just not in excess
> Inhibitor+ is for corrosion and ph balance
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...fficial-heatkiller-club-429.html#post28363164


I'm going to look for a ph test kit on amazon or ebay but
Are you saying that if I use too much biocide it could make the coolant too acidic?


----------



## ThrashZone

sdmf74 said:


> I'm going to look for a ph test kit on amazon or ebay but
> Are you saying that if I use too much biocide it could make the coolant too acidic?


Hi,
I asked ek rep didn't get a reply on my inquiry posted to the same watercool response too mostly issue is with ek nickle plating
Guess they just want to push premix
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...g-fittings-not-very-good-15.html#post28368724

Frankly I'd just use biocide+ a little more cautiously that the inhibitor+ after initial mixing say half what ever you add on inhibitor if you use ek nickle plated products.

Local pool company is a better place to get testers/ ph strips....


----------



## sdmf74

Good call


----------



## Shawnb99

sdmf74 said:


> I'm going to look for a ph test kit on amazon or ebay but
> Are you saying that if I use too much biocide it could make the coolant too acidic?



Yeah to much of either biocide or inhibitor can cause issues. Get a digital PH tester


----------



## D-EJ915

sdmf74 said:


> Surprised to see you guys are using nth1 isnt that stuff is ancient, also surprised no mention of gelid extreme, I've always had really good luck with it & kryonaut of course.
> 
> Anyway I'm getting ready to use mayhems biocide+ and inhibitor+ for the first time & noticed a couple mentions of it in this thread, have you guys had good luck with it & is it safe on nickel plated blocks? Mayhems makes no mention of nickel.
> Also how much are you supposed to use with DW?


I've been using kryonaut for a few years now but latest application of my big tube left some marks on my foundation cold plate so I switched to gc-extreme for my 7980 build and it works fine too but was much easier to spread.


Had no issues with my new rig either with foundation block, might drop my clocks and voltage down a bit due to heat though as it's been getting pretty warm here.


----------



## KedarWolf

D-EJ915 said:


> I've been using kryonaut for a few years now but latest application of my big tube left some marks on my foundation cold plate so I switched to gc-extreme for my 7980 build and it works fine too but was much easier to spread.
> 
> 
> Had no issues with my new rig either with foundation block, might drop my clocks and voltage down a bit due to heat though as it's been getting pretty warm here.


I swear by Cooler Master MasterGel Maker Nano, it has diamond particles but they are too small to scratch the CPU IHS or remove the print on it.

It's also thin and very easy to apply and as a result I get 2-3C better temps than with Kryonaut.


----------



## JustinThyme

Any company that pushes away from certain coolant is usually using a crap outsourced plating facility in some weird country like China.
Ive had a few instances of nickel plating flaking off from more than one big name block maker. They always blamed the coolant but then you have companyies like Optimus that say run what you want as you wont break down their plating.


----------



## sdmf74

I seriously worry about the direction EK is heading, it seems several of their newer products are either having issues or are being made more cheaply whereas in the past the only issue I was ever aware of was the nickel plating.

The only reason the magnitude even exists (to my knowledge) is a counter move to the release of the new optimus products.

It seems though it should be the other way around, as EK is getting bigger & making more money they should be investing more into quality control & building higher quality parts


----------



## ciarlatano

sdmf74 said:


> I seriously worry about the direction EK is heading, it seems several of their newer products are either having issues or are being made more cheaply whereas in the past the only issue I was ever aware of was the nickel plating.
> 
> The only reason the magnitude even exists (to my knowledge) is a counter move to the release of the new optimus products.
> 
> It seems though it should be the other way around, as EK is getting bigger & making more money they should be investing more into quality control & building higher quality parts


Uh....newsflash from 2015......EK has been in a downward spiral for years. Their last executive team ruined the company, putting profit squarely ahead of quality and customer satisfaction. If anything, they are headed in a better direction the last six months since booting that crew (who are now ripping off consumers heading up Corsair's liquid cooling). But.....until they go back to who they were, making top quality blocks, and get rid of the garbage in their line (Cryofuel, fittings, ZMT, reservoirs), they are going to remain where they have positioned themselves - overpriced mediocrity living off giving away product to reviewers to make noobs think they are top quality.

And for the Magnitude? The best the can do is a block that can't match the Foundation? And priced over double? Yup....that's EK for the last 5 years.


----------



## skupples

JustinThyme said:


> Any company that pushes away from certain coolant is usually using a crap outsourced plating facility in some weird country like China.
> Ive had a few instances of nickel plating flaking off from more than one big name block maker. They always blamed the coolant but then you have companyies like Optimus that say run what you want as you wont break down their plating.


decorative Vs. industrial, and there's even thicker plating than what optimus does too 



ciarlatano said:


> Uh....newsflash from 2015......EK has been in a downward spiral for years. Their last executive team ruined the company, putting profit squarely ahead of quality and customer satisfaction. If anything, they are headed in a better direction the last six months since booting that crew (who are now ripping off consumers heading up Corsair's liquid cooling). But.....until they go back to who they were, making top quality blocks, and get rid of the garbage in their line (Cryofuel, fittings, ZMT, reservoirs), they are going to remain where they have positioned themselves - overpriced mediocrity living off giving away product to reviewers to make noobs think they are top quality.
> 
> And for the Magnitude? The best the can do is a block that can't match the Foundation? And priced over double? Yup....that's EK for the last 5 years.


Yeah. was hard to watch. it would be nice to see them slowly claw it back, but inflating the bottom line is BAD FOR BUSINESS!!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah ek prices are stupid high for what you get 
Acetal's top finish was very disappointing so was the cold plates finish for 210.us and 300.us for nickle top is just really stupid and ek plexi top with the usual milling marks inside as we all have seen on prior blocks is probably still there too price wise some where between.

Only good thing about mag is switchable inlet outlet and different shims is that worth double the price = not that I can tell.

If optimus designs some rgb frames for the bling effect game really over


----------



## skupples

tapping into the apple tier market though, priceless.

I'll be retiring my last 2 5 year old EK Coolstreams in the next couple weeks, and those will be my last EK products for quite some time.

I'm done waiting on the 2080ti block to show up first. time to get some work done, before the chinese parts run out & never restock. i've got the half off white fittings coming in from sidewinder, a D5 combo in the closet, & 3x new HWL multiport 480s coming. only problem is its kinda hard to split a loop when there's only one block in it ! guess I can just throw a quick disconnect in... if I didn't get them all away when I flipped the 1080tis.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Always thought the sigV2 price 180.00 was silly pretty much why I bought a foundation 120.00 just before Christmas.

But never imagined ek magnitudes would sell there must be a lot of people with more dollars than sense


----------



## skupples

wouldn't that be like $400 in the EU?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah it's a pity about the gpu blocks 
Guess you can't make everything at once 

Even ek said they have to retool to make mag blocks and they ran out of parts too.

Since optimus couldn't keep up with demand or offer EU or UK supply chains they lost out and ek benefited selling out at much higher prices.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah ek prices are stupid high for what you get
> Acetal's top finish was very disappointing so was the cold plates finish for 210.us and 300.us for nickle top is just really stupid and ek plexi top with the usual milling marks inside as we all have seen on prior blocks is probably still there too price wise some where between.
> 
> Only good thing about mag is switchable inlet outlet and different shims is that worth double the price = not that I can tell.
> 
> If optimus designs some rgb frames for the bling effect game really over


Optimus has made it clear they will not produce any RGB products. Both here and in there website.

There will be no argument from me over that EK had been slipping. Same reason auto manufacturers in the US started slipping. Introduction of Outsourced knocks offs. You give someone some work doing a crappy plating job on your blocks and they do a 3D scam and cad of your block then the next thing you know here comes a water block that looks EXACTLY the same. Barrow block for 2080Ti Strix is a dead on match for the EK. Only difference? The Barrow blocks are really made like crap and their plating job is the worst I’ve ever seen. I’ve posted up pics of one in here somewhere. Only difference? They didn’t have a back plate because they never saw a back plate. May have bought one and making them now. 

Optimus is just starting out. If they threw a higher price tag on their products than they already are they would go belly up before they got a good start. If you think for a millisecond that EK has lost any market share you should do a little more research. PPCs has a FB group with dozens of builds every week that have enough EK badges in them it makes me want to puke. People actually change the orientation of their components to make sure the badges are displayed in builds containing 100% EK products. 

I don’t mind buying thinks from outside of the US but I do have one requirement. That country must be involved in a fair trade deal and actually practice it. I grew up in an era where It was the mid 70s before the first Japanese cars hit the American market. Datsun (now Nissan) followed by the Honda Civic whose first model was a caged go cart as Honda was not a car manufacturer, they made lawnmowers up to that point. Travel around a bit. Pretty much every eurpean nation you find American products. Now go to China there is ZERO as anyone who wants a Cadillac Escalade will just buy the Chinese version made so exact of a template of the US made product that you can swap a door off one one for the other and they are an exact fit. Go to Japan and see how many American products you see there. Few and far between and zero cars. 

In the 70s the US economy was strong as was the deficit nearly non existent and the only made in China you saw were bubble gum machine trinkets and China didn’t even have an economy much less a strong one. Now their Economy is on the decline after an i massive increase over the last 40 years and the US is in recovery after constant decline over the past 40 years. Coincidental? I think not. 

One can’t call a trade deal that is all one sided a deal at all. The crap that was in place was economic suicide. “oh well let them do the manufacturering while we lead in innovation” went over like a rudder on a ducks butt when they are stealing all of your IP right from under your nose and nothing is done about it. 

Enough in economics. We all know who the leaders are in this hobby. Until optimus came to be they were all in Europe. Optimus has one major problem. They delivered a wave of products that I’m happy I got one of now they have failed to deliver on other promised goods that people paid for on preorder months ago. I never agree to preorder or back order as you have no recourse. If you order a product straight up they have to ship or you can get your money back if your used a reputable CC company to order.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
At this point not sure ek magnitude beat heatkiller 4 pro 
If it did it's just by a hair or as most say margin of error


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> At this point not sure ek magnitude beat heatkiller 4 pro
> If it did it's just by a hair or as most say margin of error


In the Thrash modified class, only you know that. 
In the manufacturers class as designed and produced on my 9940X they both top HK 4 pro solid blocks copper nickel plated, no acetal or acrylic in any of them, by 3C and it took many times on both to find the magic mounting combo while the HK 4 pros mount I just put the TIM on and cranked it down which leaves mounting pressure up to the springs and that was that. I’ve spent more time on these two blocks in out of the box conditions than anything else I’ve ever installed. A solid week on each to find the sweet spot in mounting, TIM and even TIM application methods. I’d always been a thin spread or x pattern person. These two both seemed to respond best to the pea in the middle method for me. After speaking with the EK rep the magnitude cold plate is convex without any jet plates. It’s spun on a lathe to get that effect with the intent to put all the contact on the area where they die is instead of covering the entire IHS. My final mounting methods which were repeatable showed precisely that.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
No modifications on optimus foundation mount and enjoy

Great performance and saving at least 100.us at the same time 
Some foundations are in stock at PPC also a holiday discount code too 10% off so enjoy


----------



## Glerox

Agreed EK is sub-par quality but they seem to be always the first ones with GPU blocks every new generation.
I hope we'll have other choices with the release of Ampere.
What other companies release blocks rapidly?

Anyone had his optimus sTRX4 block yet? Waiting for a silver one with nickel cold plate.

I'm eager to see some benchmarks vs HK IV pro blocks because they seem like the ones to beat.
Also I hope there is no problem with the mount like AM4 optimus blocks at the beginning.


----------



## skupples

that's because they got big enough to have NDA pre-release access.

it's pretty lame, and has kept them in the game more than you'd think. There's a reason why Bezos has what he has. He was the only dude putting effort into getting it to you first. Driving to the store to have it in an hour doesn't count! Specially in a post WW3 world.


----------



## sdmf74

@ciarlatano what's wrong with ZMT tubing? I've never had an issue or heard of any aside from being difficult to screw the collar on


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Weird size not 10-16mm or even 3/8-5/8". which makes it difficult to put the cap on compression fittings.


----------



## JustinThyme

Glerox said:


> Agreed EK is sub-par quality but they seem to be always the first ones with GPU blocks every new generation.
> I hope we'll have other choices with the release of Ampere.
> What other companies release blocks rapidly?
> 
> Anyone had his optimus sTRX4 block yet? Waiting for a silver one with nickel cold plate.
> 
> I'm eager to see some benchmarks vs HK IV pro blocks because they seem like the ones to beat.
> Also I hope there is no problem with the mount like AM4 optimus blocks at the beginning.



They are only quick on FE blocks. 
All the top competitors have access to the FE layout with NDA in place of course. (I hate hearing the term embargo as that’s not what embargo means). Take you pick. It’s the non reference PCBs that take forever amd it’s even across the board, they are all late to the party. The sad thing is some of the “economy” brands have products released for the non reference first. I caught hell with 2080Ti strix blocks. First one was a Bitspower bit they abandoned it faster than they produced it. Could only get one, no backplate available. Returns to MicroCenter. Second was a HUGE Barrow fail. What a hunk of JUNK!!! Also no backplate. Warped, some VRMs with no coverage, sharp edges with shards protruding from tapped holes that left me bleeding. Only thing that made OK contact was the GPU chip itself. Everything. Else was poor at best. Final kicker, no nvlink bridge would fit because the IN/OUT terminal was too far to the left. Then Phanteks released a block that I ran for a year. Still no back plate but ability to use stock back plate. Those blocks kept me under 45C They did fairly well. When the EK and HK blocks finally hit that was an easy choice. The HK has great performance and passive cooling on the back plate. That’s what I went with as IMO the EK Strix block looks like an abomination with engineering input from Dr Frankenstein. 

The best blocks IMO are aquacomputer but they only do reference and Titan and can’t keep up with those orders. They also make a nice CPU block where convexity can be adjusted after its mounted by set screws in the side. But it’s about an ugly beast. 

I can’t speak for AM4 or TR4 blocks but both the Optimus and WK magnitude beat out HKIV by 3-4C in my test runs. Only problems were getting the mount right on both blocks. Optimus original mount with springs blew chunks. Removing the springs from that mount did the trick and now they have springless mounts. TIM application was even spread on IHS On the Magnitude two things. TIM application and cranking mounting screws to fully compress springs. TIM application was pea sized dot in the center.


I can’t speak for modifications made to blocks. All my testing was done as they came out of the box with the exception of using Kryonaut TIM and pulling the springs from the Optimus mount.


----------



## JustinThyme

Well I located the source of the metal bits found in my filter!

@OptimusPC 

Sent email on contact us
Please send replacement cold plate for Sig V2 full nickel


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Bits didn't look like nickle.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Also it's to contact the guy directly 
[email protected]


----------



## skupples

definitely looks off though.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I'd expect some grinding where the nickle touches nickle to make the bow 
But in the fin area ?
But then again another reason I do copper not plating.


----------



## skupples

all copper train 4 life.

tried telling them they'd regret saying their nickel is OP.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> all copper train 4 life.
> 
> tried telling them they'd regret saying their nickel is OP.


Hi,
Brass is good too but yeah copper rules just softer.


----------



## skupples

yeah yeah.

the softer side of brapper.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> yeah yeah.
> 
> the softer side of *brapper*.


Hi,
lol okay :thumb:


----------



## ciarlatano

sdmf74 said:


> @ciarlatano what's wrong with ZMT tubing? I've never had an issue or heard of any aside from being difficult to screw the collar on


It's tubing. Having correct ID and OD to able to use it with compression fittings, and having it fit correctly on barbs is completely fundamental. What more wrong with it do you need?????? Tygon A-60-G offers all of the advantages, costs the same or less, and actually has enough QC that the ID and OD are correct.


----------



## skupples

not to be confused with the noise ricers make.


----------



## sdmf74

This might be a dumb question but is the signature v2 not available in black?

@ciarlatano my zmt fits just fine over barbs & I was able to completely tighten all my fittings down by hand although it was tight (definitely dont have to worry bout leaks).
Oh and your comment gave me a good laugh since I just recently watched Jayz antifreeze video where his Tygon was completely stained purple, looked horrendous


----------



## ThrashZone

sdmf74 said:


> This might be a dumb question but is the signature v2 not available in black?


Hi,
Doesn't look like it
https://optimuspc.com/products/signature-cpu-block-intel?variant=15422252482609

Foundation is and is a better block frankly.


----------



## sdmf74

ThrashZone said:


> sdmf74 said:
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a dumb question but is the signature v2 not available in black?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Doesn't look like it
> https://optimuspc.com/products/signature-cpu-block-intel?variant=15422252482609
> 
> Foundation is and is a better block frankly.
Click to expand...

Really why? I was curious about the mounting on the optimus blocks, it's been mentioned briefly a couple times in this thread but I cant find any pics of their mounting brackets/screws, is there any issues with the mounting on the optimus intel blocks?
Also once mounted do they sit higher or lower than the EK velocity blocks?


----------



## ThrashZone

sdmf74 said:


> Really why? I was curious about the mounting on the optimus blocks, it's been mentioned briefly a couple times in this thread but I cant find any pics of their mounting brackets/screws, is there any issues with the mounting on the optimus intel blocks?
> Also once mounted do they sit higher or lower than the EK blocks?


Hi,
Why is the foundation better ?
I had no issues mounting it and it fitting my chip 9940x well for one 

SigV2 is very bowed and didn't fit my chip well about the same as magnitude fit not well either.
I altered the bow on the sigV2 and it works very well magnitude works better altered but falls well behind even the foundation by 4c.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-266.html#post28388126

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-269.html#post28391284

Both are pretty low to the board from say heatkiller 4 pro and ek evo and maybe velocity.
About the same height as magnitude is off the top of the chip though.


----------



## sdmf74

I was just curious how high they sit from the top of the block compared to the velocity (forgot to mention velocity) cause mine sits a little higher than my M9F when connecting to the motherboard vrm & I've been thinking about switching out to an optimus

Did someone say optimus isnt using springs in their mounts anymore?


----------



## ThrashZone

sdmf74 said:


> I was just curious how high they sit from the top of the block compared to the velocity (forgot to mention velocity) cause mine sits a little higher than my M9F when connecting to the motherboard vrm & I've been thinking about switching out to an optimus
> 
> Did someone say optimus isnt using springs in their mounts anymore?


Hi,
Nope no more springs 
I have a side by side but with no velocity only ek evo/ heatkiller 4 pro and optimus of which both the foundation and sigV2 are the same mount basically 

From left to right ek evo-optimus-heatkiller


----------



## ciarlatano

sdmf74 said:


> This might be a dumb question but is the signature v2 not available in black?
> 
> @ciarlatano my zmt fits just fine over barbs & I was able to completely tighten all my fittings down by hand although it was tight (definitely dont have to worry bout leaks).
> Oh and your comment gave me a good laugh since I just recently watched Jayz antifreeze video where his Tygon was completely stained purple, looked horrendous


Wow.....just....wow.....

And good laugh about A-60-G possibly being stained purple. Well, really, I didn't laugh...just kind of sighed and shook my head.....


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Black hose turning purple ?
Pure anti freeze nobody does that 10-20% I've done that there is no benefit unless going subzero water so I went back to typical solutions premix and biocide+/ inhibitor+


----------



## ciarlatano

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Black hose turning purple ?
> Pure anti freeze nobody does that 10-20% I've done that there is no benefit unless going subzero water so I went back to typical solutions premix and biocide+/ inhibitor+


Nah, you can't stain A-60-G purple. I just get a kick out of people commenting about Jayz Tygon being stained purple (which is frankly what you get when you use purple coolant in clear tubing....) as a knock on tA-60-G....because they didn't bother to look to see what A-60-G even is. 

But, that came from someone who can't see why incorrect tubing diameter is an issue, so.......


----------



## skupples

dye stains. 

and you should heavily dilute if using automotive products.


----------



## ThrashZone

ciarlatano said:


> Nah, you can't stain A-60-G purple. I just get a kick out of people commenting about Jayz Tygon being stained purple (which is frankly what you get when you use purple coolant in clear tubing....) as a knock on tA-60-G....because they didn't bother to look to see what A-60-G even is.
> 
> But, that came from someone who can't see why incorrect tubing diameter is an issue, so.......


Hi,
Yeah doubt it would of helped by him posting the youtube video he referred to 
I skip 2cents/ LTT/ and often GN "hippy needs a haircut or hair tie" so he can stop playing with his hair so much.


----------



## Jpmboy

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah doubt it would of helped by him posting the youtube video he referred to
> I skip 2cents/ LTT/ and often GN "hippy needs a haircut or hair tie" so he can stop playing with his hair so much.


lol - and JZ?


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Bits didn't look like nickle.


I never posted the pic after the Optimus install. Very fine particles. Now I know where they came from. I’m about to go putting Things back in the case. New MOBO after issues with first. Loading up software on VROC pair of intel 905P M2 on DIMM2 on box top with Magnitude block. I’m not putting this nickel chipping cold plate back in anything. I made mention of the bits before but didn’t take it apart. They said they have had it happen before and would send a replacement. 

You guys like copper, I’m always going full nickel because it doesn’t oxidize. Copper is pretty when it’s new but that beauty fades fast.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Why is the foundation better ?
> I had no issues mounting it and it fitting my chip 9940x well for one
> 
> SigV2 is very bowed and didn't fit my chip well about the same as magnitude fit not well either.
> I altered the bow on the sigV2 and it works very well magnitude works better altered but falls well behind even the foundation by 4c.
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-266.html#post28388126
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-269.html#post28391284
> 
> Both are pretty low to the board from say heatkiller 4 pro and ek evo and maybe velocity.
> About the same height as magnitude is off the top of the chip though.


You probably had no issues because the acrylic has some give. Your experience and mine with both of us having a 9940X have been completely different. Both the full nickel versions work well out of the box for me after pulling springs on Optimus (have springless mount now) and the magnitude came down to TIM application and cranking the screws to full compression. Both 80C or less under sustained AVX workload with no offset.

The foundation and Sig V2 have the same cold plate.


----------



## Glerox

JustinThyme said:


> Glerox said:
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed EK is sub-par quality but they seem to be always the first ones with GPU blocks every new generation.
> I hope we'll have other choices with the release of Ampere.
> What other companies release blocks rapidly?
> 
> Anyone had his optimus sTRX4 block yet? Waiting for a silver one with nickel cold plate.
> 
> I'm eager to see some benchmarks vs HK IV pro blocks because they seem like the ones to beat.
> Also I hope there is no problem with the mount like AM4 optimus blocks at the beginning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are only quick on FE blocks.
> All the top competitors have access to the FE layout with NDA in place of course. (I hate hearing the term embargo as thatâ€™️s not what embargo means). Take you pick. Itâ€™️s the non reference PCBs that take forever amd itâ€™️s even across the board, they are all late to the party. The sad thing is some of the â€œeconomyâ€ brands have products released for the non reference first. I caught hell with 2080Ti strix blocks. First one was a Bitspower bit they abandoned it faster than they produced it. Could only get one, no backplate available. Returns to MicroCenter. Second was a HUGE Barrow fail. What a hunk of JUNK!!! Also no backplate. Warped, some VRMs with no coverage, sharp edges with shards protruding from tapped holes that left me bleeding. Only thing that made OK contact was the GPU chip itself. Everything. Else was poor at best. Final kicker, no nvlink bridge would fit because the IN/OUT terminal was too far to the left. Then Phanteks released a block that I ran for a year. Still no back plate but ability to use stock back plate. Those blocks kept me under 45C They did fairly well. When the EK and HK blocks finally hit that was an easy choice. The HK has great performance and passive cooling on the back plate. Thatâ€™️s what I went with as IMO the EK Strix block looks like an abomination with engineering input from Dr Frankenstein.
> 
> The best blocks IMO are aquacomputer but they only do reference and Titan and canâ€™️t keep up with those orders. They also make a nice CPU block where convexity can be adjusted after its mounted by set screws in the side. But itâ€™️s about an ugly beast.
> 
> I canâ€™️t speak for AM4 or TR4 blocks but both the Optimus and WK magnitude beat out HKIV by 3-4C in my test runs. Only problems were getting the mount right on both blocks. Optimus original mount with springs blew chunks. Removing the springs from that mount did the trick and now they have springless mounts. TIM application was even spread on IHS On the Magnitude two things. TIM application and cranking mounting screws to fully compress springs. TIM application was pea sized dot in the center.
> 
> 
> I canâ€™️t speak for modifications made to blocks. All my testing was done as they came out of the box with the exception of using Kryonaut TIM and pulling the springs from the Optimus mount.
Click to expand...

agree and thanks for sharing


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> I never posted the pic after the Optimus install. Very fine particles. Now I know where they came from. I’m about to go putting Things back in the case. New MOBO after issues with first. Loading up software on VROC pair of intel 905P M2 on DIMM2 on box top with Magnitude block. I’m not putting this nickel chipping cold plate back in anything. I made mention of the bits before but didn’t take it apart. They said they have had it happen before and would send a replacement.
> 
> You guys like copper, I’m always going full nickel because it doesn’t oxidize. Copper is pretty when it’s new but that beauty fades fast.


Hi,
You showed a picture of the stuff in your filter way back after you first got it 

I said I always disassemble blocks especially new ones if nothing else just to make sure they are clean and screws are properly tightened.

Yes foundation and sigV2 use the same cold plate from your other post copper is my preference always 
All still look new even a four year old evo copper cold plate no oxidation/...... just exaggerations issues that don't happen unless poor fluid choices are made or really even worse just running distilled water with silver coil :doh:

But yes flexing/ bowing cold plate with a nickle plating not sure it's a surprise the coating would flake off.
Wonder if @Jpmboy has issues he got nickle..


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You showed a picture of the stuff in your filter way back after you first got it
> 
> I said I always disassemble blocks especially new ones if nothing else just to make sure they are clean and screws are properly tightened.
> 
> Yes foundation and sigV2 use the same cold plate from your other post copper is my preference always
> All still look new even a four year old evo copper cold plate no oxidation/...... just exaggerations issues that don't happen unless poor fluid choices are made or really even worse just running distilled water with silver coil :doh:
> 
> But yes flexing/ bowing cold plate with a nickle plating not sure it's a surprise the coating would flake off.
> Wonder if @Jpmboy has issues he got nickle..


Yeah that pic of the filer was after installing the Magnitude.
Copper does oxidize, thats just the way it is. Where it turns green and build up funk is another story. They will turn brown, just a matter of time. 
Im a bit surpsied because their marketing says their plating technique is such that it will not flake off. Had many nickel plated blocks, CPU and GPU, and this is the first one that flaked off.......The one that uses a special process thats guaranteed not to flake off.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
They "optimus" doesn't do the plating though last I read.

Micro fine fins I can see issues might happen bending... not a lot of surface to stick too.
Copper nickle what ever I have my preference and it's been said made over and over all look great 

Email is about the fastest way to get optimus.
@Glerox
Here's another share 
Don't use the mobile site it makes gibberish of posts and quotes in them.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

sdmf74 said:


> @ciarlatano what's wrong with ZMT tubing? I've never had an issue or heard of any aside from being difficult to screw the collar on


my mora have zmt tubing have 0 issues with it love that tubing.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> Micro fine fins I can see issues might happen bending... not a lot of surface to stick too.



well thats one of the features on this block and the small thickness of the plate itself ..........helps alot with this power hungry cpus to transfer heat from bottom to fins out to the water in quick way.


----------



## Section31

I am going to have to do some retesting of my results in regards to the flow meter. Apparently the barrowsch one is very unreliable in terms of reading according to igorslab. Ordered in an aquacomputer one and will test it out sometime this summer.

Thankfully my loop is designed in an manner the swap shouldn’t be too difficult.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> They "optimus" doesn't do the plating though last I read.
> 
> Micro fine fins I can see issues might happen bending... not a lot of surface to stick too.
> Copper nickle what ever I have my preference and it's been said made over and over all look great
> 
> Email is about the fastest way to get optimus.
> 
> @Glerox
> Here's another share
> Don't use the mobile site it makes gibberish of posts and quotes in them.


Don’t know who does the plating just that their marketing says it’s electro less plating that WILL NOT FLAKE off. Yet here I site with a cold plate with the only case of falling off I’ve ever seen. Already used the contact us link on their website, no reply. They said when I reported the the small chips in my filter VIA PM that If I experienced issues with it that they would send a new one. Now I have reported further issues and not a peep. Strict radio silence which I’m not at all happy with. Are they going to wait 10 years and a day to respond?


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

Sorry for the radio silence! Things have been insane on our end. Covid is making life crazy, as you can imagine. 

We've had some email issues, we're running that down right now. 

For the cold plate JustinThyme mentioned, there was a tiny batch of cold plates that had a defect. Basically a stage was missed in our nickel plating processing so the nickel was weakened. Only a couple coldplates went out the door, sounds like one ended up in JT's build. 

Obviously, if anyone has an issue, we'll replace immediately! 

In other news, yes, we're helping make ventilator parts. Threadripper blocks are shipping as soon as we get the brackets back from anodizing. Everyone is taking longer than normal, so it's been tough to keep up with deadlines. But we're still working around the clock and shipping normal blocks! 

And apologies for anyone who ordered and it's taken longer than normal, we're trying hard to keep this all working without shutting down or getting sick in the process. 

Happy to answer any questions!


----------



## agentdark45

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Sorry for the radio silence! Things have been insane on our end. Covid is making life crazy, as you can imagine.
> 
> We've had some email issues, we're running that down right now.
> 
> For the cold plate JustinThyme mentioned, there was a tiny batch of cold plates that had a defect. Basically a stage was missed in our nickel plating processing so the nickel was weakened. Only a couple coldplates went out the door, sounds like one ended up in JT's build.
> 
> Obviously, if anyone has an issue, we'll replace immediately!
> 
> In other news, yes, we're helping make ventilator parts. Threadripper blocks are shipping as soon as we get the brackets back from anodizing. Everyone is taking longer than normal, so it's been tough to keep up with deadlines. But we're still working around the clock and shipping normal blocks!
> 
> And apologies for anyone who ordered and it's taken longer than normal, we're trying hard to keep this all working without shutting down or getting sick in the process.
> 
> Happy to answer any questions!


Thanks for the update guys. Re the threadripper blocks, is there still a delay on the nickel plated version? If so, I may consider changing my order to the raw copper - is there a difference in durability with the raw copper vs nickel plating (especially regarding the micro fins)?


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Sorry for the radio silence! Things have been insane on our end. Covid is making life crazy, as you can imagine.
> 
> We've had some email issues, we're running that down right now.
> 
> For the cold plate JustinThyme mentioned, there was a tiny batch of cold plates that had a defect. Basically a stage was missed in our nickel plating processing so the nickel was weakened. Only a couple coldplates went out the door, sounds like one ended up in JT's build.
> 
> Obviously, if anyone has an issue, we'll replace immediately!
> 
> In other news, yes, we're helping make ventilator parts. Threadripper blocks are shipping as soon as we get the brackets back from anodizing. Everyone is taking longer than normal, so it's been tough to keep up with deadlines. But we're still working around the clock and shipping normal blocks!
> 
> And apologies for anyone who ordered and it's taken longer than normal, we're trying hard to keep this all working without shutting down or getting sick in the process.
> 
> Happy to answer any questions!


so that would mean GPUs are up next/being turned as we speak? Believe you said they were up after TR4s were done being turned.


----------



## Optimus WC

Nickel TR blocks will take an extra week or so before shipping. Like the regular blocks, there isn't any real difference between the two other than looks (though use nickel if you're using liquid metal). 

We'll also have acetal tops. Once we start shipping, we'll send out an email and people can change their preorders then. 

For GPUs, yes, those are up after the TR blocks. The GPU is fully designed and tested, it's just the boring stuff of ramping up production and putting blocks in boxes.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Don’t know who does the plating just that their marketing says it’s electro less plating that WILL NOT FLAKE off. Yet here I site with a cold plate with the only case of falling off I’ve ever seen. Already used the contact us link on their website, no reply. They said when I reported the the small chips in my filter VIA PM that If I experienced issues with it that they would send a new one. Now I have reported further issues and not a peep. Strict radio silence which I’m not at all happy with. Are they going to wait 10 years and a day to respond?


Hi,
Should of email the man [email protected]


----------



## skupples

woot. I've got a bunch of new stuff sitting here waiting 

I look forward to hopefully getting it by my Bastille day birthday.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Should of email the man [email protected]


Already did but in the end he checked PM here and new cold plate is on the way from chi town. 

Unfortunately it seems I was one of the unlucky few who experienced this. One thing you can count on it I’m gonna run the pi$$ out of it and check before installation into machine. I’ve ended up with 2 RVIEE. Got the 10G working again on the return that they have refunded and the second one that the amazing Amazon delivery logistics delivered to the wrong address. Pic they had was of a ranch style house, I live in a 2 story colonial. Just appeared on my door step a week later. Guess the recipient had no use for it and was nice enough to drive over and drop it. Have a good idea of the general subdivision just from the house design in the photo, they were several miles off. I tried to call it in so they could go back and get it but nooo, had to wait until it was well past overdue on delivery and they had no clue....cancelled the replacement and they refunded the original without return. 

So have everything to set up a second platform with a 7900X and a pair of 1080Tis. Just need a smaller case as I’ll probably use it for an HTPC and don’t have the room for the only other case I have hanging out, Corsair 900D.


----------



## keeph8n

Let me know if sending a TR block for testing is still on the table. 3970X here and waiting, can most likely have a 3990X here to test as well.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> Fyi any info device that includes any number from wall pull its utterly useless for testing actual heat/watt dissipations..
> 
> You want the approximate number after wall/cables/batterys/psu conversion/more cables/vrms to actual socket pull which is looking at the number like around 320w-350w maybe 375w tops....as a ballpark as actual heat coming out of that cpu at current settings to dissipate.. The 1.9vin dont help either in the equation just adds more watts on the pull xD. Also mobo vrms are another factor... Thats why its important to show the socket pull of the cpu not the whole thing.. As this is what the cpu block is trying to cool .
> 
> My 2 cents xD


Do you use a different PSU to feed your CPU only? I dont so what I can offer up is the AC pull from the UPS which is balls on. A little math of 17 watts per pump and chump change for the fans and there you have it. Heat watts and power draw are two different beasts no matter. I do 800KW UPS systems pulling 1000A @ 480V that produce 130K BTUs of heat.


----------



## Kashtan

I noticed that ultra flat is not for sale on the site at all. 
Has anyone ( anybody )achieved lower temperatures with his help than with the classic cold plate?


----------



## JustinThyme

Kashtan said:


> I noticed that ultra flat is not for sale on the site at all.
> Has anyone ( anybody )achieved lower temperatures with his help than with the classic cold plate?


From what OEM has stated ultra flat is for bare die only or aftermarket or lapped IHS AMD shouldn’t be used on standard IHS. Near as I can figure the bow is built into the cold plate. There are no shims. Only thing pressing outward is the built in jet plates oring which doesn’t do a lot of pressing. The notches from the channels can be seen in the oring upon dissembled. Thrash said he got better results by modifying the oring by shaving it down on SigV2. I’ve not had any issues as is other than some plating flaking which they are replacing and the original springed mount which I now have the springless. New cold plate Inbound as I type this. Expecting it Monday. One thing I will give Optimus is once you can get ahold of them they take care of it immediately.


----------



## Armin W.

So last week I finally got my Optimus Foundation for my 3900X and today I got around to test some with Conductonaut/liquid metal. Still running the same fan curve as with my old loop, keep that in mind.

Had a very good application of Kryo running over the past week and saw a good 5° improvement over my old EKWB Supremacy while having the fans run a comfortable 100-150RPM lower.

Well, today I applied Conductonaut and right now I'm looking at a solid 10°(!) drop in Blender while my fans are another 300-400RPM lower than before. Which means I'm also boosting roughly 100MHz higher(from 4.075-4.1 all-core to 4.175-4.2 all-core).

I highly suggest you try liquid metal on your HCC chips aswell, the thin coldplate with the huge amount of very fine microchannels makes a perfect match for liquid metal. The high heat density of a 3900X helps aswell of course.

Edit: Loop configuration for the sake of it is as follows: Optimus Foundation, 2x D5 in series running at 70%, 1x 360 60mm rad, 1x 360 40mm rad, GTX1080(but idling during my test) and 6x Noctua NF-A12x25.

With the EKWB block they were running at 1900-1950 during the same test, with Optimus/Kryonaut it was ~1800, now I'm at 1400-1500


----------



## skupples

well... my all metal block shipped. Hope it mates fine with 9700k


----------



## gnasherrr

Optimus WC said:


> Nickel TR blocks will take an extra week or so before shipping. Like the regular blocks, there isn't any real difference between the two other than looks (though use nickel if you're using liquid metal).
> 
> We'll also have acetal tops. Once we start shipping, we'll send out an email and people can change their preorders then.
> 
> For GPUs, yes, those are up after the TR blocks. The GPU is fully designed and tested, it's just the boring stuff of ramping up production and putting blocks in boxes.


could you post a picture of the final production TR block and its cold plate?


----------



## chas1723

Armin W. said:


> So last week I finally got my Optimus Foundation for my 3900X and today I got around to test some with Conductonaut/liquid metal. Still running the same fan curve as with my old loop, keep that in mind.
> 
> 
> 
> Had a very good application of Kryo running over the past week and saw a good 5° improvement over my old EKWB Supremacy while having the fans run a comfortable 100-150RPM lower.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, today I applied Conductonaut and right now I'm looking at a solid 10°(!) drop in Blender while my fans are another 300-400RPM lower than before. Which means I'm also boosting roughly 100MHz higher(from 4.075-4.1 all-core to 4.175-4.2 all-core).
> 
> 
> 
> I highly suggest you try liquid metal on your HCC chips aswell, the thin coldplate with the huge amount of very fine microchannels makes a perfect match for liquid metal. The high heat density of a 3900X helps aswell of course.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Loop configuration for the sake of it is as follows: Optimus Foundation, 2x D5 in series running at 70%, 1x 360 60mm rad, 1x 360 40mm rad, GTX1080(but idling during my test) and 6x Noctua NF-A12x25.
> 
> 
> 
> With the EKWB block they were running at 1900-1950 during the same test, with Optimus/Kryonaut it was ~1800, now I'm at 1400-1500


Why would your fan speed change unless you have them running based on cpu temp?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Armin W.

chas1723 said:


> Why would your fan speed change unless you have them running based on cpu temp?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Because that's exactly what I have. I have a fan curve set up for my system 

Despite the A12x25s being really good, I definitely value silence and at 100% six of them are just too loud through mesh and rads.

I agree that it would be a better comparison if both ran at fixed fan speeds, but I simply didn't have the time for that and didn't bother as the results I've gotten from that do speak volumes.


----------



## ciarlatano

chas1723 said:


> Why would your fan speed change unless you have them running based on cpu temp?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk





Armin W. said:


> Because that's exactly what I have. I have a fan curve set up for my system
> 
> Despite the A12x25s being really good, I definitely value silence and at 100% six of them are just too loud through mesh and rads.
> 
> I agree that it would be a better comparison if both ran at fixed fan speeds, but I simply didn't have the time for that and didn't bother as the results I've gotten from that do speak volumes.


You would be far better served running your fan speeds based on liquid temp.


----------



## Shawnb99

ciarlatano said:


> You would be far better served running your fan speeds based on liquid temp.


This is why a liquid temp sensor in all WC builds. Your CPU/GPU temps spike way to much to base your fan speeds off them plus your fans aren't even cooling those parts, they are cooling the water hence why you set your fan curve off of those.
If the water temp starts to rise that's when you want to increase your fan speeds not by what the CPU gets to unless your reaching TJ Max.


----------



## Armin W.

Shawnb99 said:


> This is why a liquid temp sensor in all WC builds. Your CPU/GPU temps spike way to much to base your fan speeds off them plus your fans aren't even cooling those parts, they are cooling the water hence why you set your fan curve off of those.
> If the water temp starts to rise that's when you want to increase your fan speeds not by what the CPU gets to unless your reaching TJ Max.


Normally I would agree, but I haven't been able to set a proper and satisfying curve with the rather low variation in water temps that I'm getting with my system, it simply pulls considerably less than what my old one does.

With a water deltaT of 6° between idle and long heavy loads I'm simply losing too much performance by not adjusting fan speed via CPU temperature. I'm talking about losing roughly 100MHz boost clock due to the algorithm not liking the higher temps I'm seeing until water has caught up.

I'm perfectly capable of setting a nice and smooth fan curve via CPU temps that isn't intrusive and ends up giving me better performance.


----------



## broodro0ster

Armin W. said:


> Normally I would agree, but I haven't been able to set a proper and satisfying curve with the rather low variation in water temps that I'm getting with my system, it simply pulls considerably less than what my old one does.
> 
> With a water deltaT of 6° between idle and long heavy loads I'm simply losing too much performance by not adjusting fan speed via CPU temperature. I'm talking about losing roughly 100MHz boost clock due to the algorithm not liking the higher temps I'm seeing until water has caught up.
> 
> I'm perfectly capable of setting a nice and smooth fan curve via CPU temps that isn't intrusive and ends up giving me better performance.


Get an aquacomputer Aquaero, Quadro or Octa and use a setpoint controller. It works like a thermostat and keeps the water a the set temperature.
For example if you set the watertemp to 30°C, the fans will spin slow when idling. And when there is load, the system automatically ramps up the fan speed to keep the temperature that you set.

The Quadro is cheapest device and costs about 40$. Which is peanuts in comparison with your whole setup and it will make you a lot happier.


----------



## skupples

Armin W. said:


> Normally I would agree, but I haven't been able to set a proper and satisfying curve with the rather low variation in water temps that I'm getting with my system, it simply pulls considerably less than what my old one does.
> 
> With a water deltaT of 6° between idle and long heavy loads I'm simply losing too much performance by not adjusting fan speed via CPU temperature. I'm talking about losing roughly 100MHz boost clock due to the algorithm not liking the higher temps I'm seeing until water has caught up.
> 
> I'm perfectly capable of setting a nice and smooth fan curve via CPU temps that isn't intrusive and ends up giving me better performance.


set a higher base line?

oh wait, this isn't aquacomputer thread, nvm.


----------



## Armin W.

skupples said:


> set a higher base line?
> 
> oh wait, this isn't aquacomputer thread, nvm.


That would unnecessarily increase noise levels at idle/low loads. And yes, it is indeed not the AC thread 

No offsense guys I appreciate your input but I'd much prefer it if you guys would look at the huge decrease I got by switching over to liquid metal instead of arguing with me over something that I've fiddled with on this chip for weeks to get noise levels I'm satisfied with.


----------



## farpetrad

Anyone get their Threadripper 3 blocks yet? Dying to know how it performs as I put in an order the other day and can't wait :-D


----------



## skupples

glad you got it settled.

LM is life, specially if you don't mind the pitting you'll eventually find if you use it long enough.


----------



## JustinThyme

LM is awesome but as stated pitting will follow and I redid one once. That’s was enough to keep me away from it except for like a delid if a 79XX CPU which I don’t intend a do over


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Fyi any info device that includes any number from wall pull its utterly useless for testing actual heat/watt dissipations..
> 
> You want the approximate number after wall/cables/batterys/psu conversion/more cables/vrms to actual socket pull which is looking at the number like around 320w-350w maybe 375w tops....as a ballpark as actual heat coming out of that cpu at current settings to dissipate.. The 1.9vin dont help either in the equation just adds more watts on the pull xD. Also mobo vrms are another factor... Thats why its important to show the socket pull of the cpu not the whole thing.. As this is what the cpu block is trying to cool .
> 
> My 2 cents xD
> 
> 
> 
> Do you use a different PSU to feed your CPU only? I dont so what I can offer up is the AC pull from the UPS which is balls on. A little math of 17 watts per pump and chump change for the fans and there you have it. Heat watts and power draw are two different beasts no matter. I do 800KW UPS systems pulling 1000A @ 480V that produce 130K BTUs of heat.
Click to expand...

The block its not cooling the wall pull, just the cpu thats why its important to know exactly that number.

If your cpu is throwing 300-400w "socket actual pull" as heat your pulling more than that from the wall.. Its all factors psu, cables, vrms and your vin on how much is that number.

If your cpu is throwing as heat 300-400w you are pulling easy 500-600w from the wall not 17w from the pumps thats just more watts added to that equation..


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Armin W. said:


> So last week I finally got my Optimus Foundation for my 3900X and today I got around to test some with Conductonaut/liquid metal. Still running the same fan curve as with my old loop, keep that in mind.
> 
> Had a very good application of Kryo running over the past week and saw a good 5Â° improvement over my old EKWB Supremacy while having the fans run a comfortable 100-150RPM lower.
> 
> Well, today I applied Conductonaut and right now I'm looking at a solid 10Â°(!) drop in Blender while my fans are another 300-400RPM lower than before. Which means I'm also boosting roughly 100MHz higher(from 4.075-4.1 all-core to 4.175-4.2 all-core).
> 
> I highly suggest you try liquid metal on your HCC chips aswell, the thin coldplate with the huge amount of very fine microchannels makes a perfect match for liquid metal. The high heat density of a 3900X helps aswell of course.
> 
> Edit: Loop configuration for the sake of it is as follows: Optimus Foundation, 2x D5 in series running at 70%, 1x 360 60mm rad, 1x 360 40mm rad, GTX1080(but idling during my test) and 6x Noctua NF-A12x25.
> 
> With the EKWB block they were running at 1900-1950 during the same test, with Optimus/Kryonaut it was ~1800, now I'm at 1400-1500


Im using lm on my 7980xe die and also between ihs and block it helped alot on the core spread.. Theres alot of factors between the block and the cpu specially on intel hcc that you can delid. Im sucking 2x the watts you do as well.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> The block its not cooling the wall pull, just the cpu thats why its important to know exactly that number.
> 
> If your cpu is throwing 300-400w "socket actual pull" as heat your pulling more than that from the wall.. Its all factors psu, cables, vrms and your vin on how much is that number.
> 
> If your cpu is throwing as heat 300-400w you are pulling easy 500-600w from the wall not 17w from the pumps thats just more watts added to that equation..



What Im getting at is you keep posting pics of a dime store current meter that plugs into the socket. Trust me, Im far more well versed in current, efficiency and all things related to power. Actual power pull in watts from the socket has precisely SQUAT to do with CPU BTUs produced. I put up UPS OUTPUT that is far more accurate than a dimestore outlet monitor specifically because you kept posting it and how important it was to know, now you argue the opposite. I posted that info specifically for YOU as noone else cares. Do yourself a favor and don't attempt a battle of wits with someone who has been in the profession of critical power with a BSEE in the field for 35+years. You don't pull heat from the wall, you pull current which is driven by voltage, simple Ohms law calculation. That does not factor what size cable you use, that applies to one thing only, Voltage drop. Its does not factor in the PSU efficiency, VRMS or VIN. Fact of the matter is there is NO WAY TO MEASURE THE ACTUAL CURRENT AT THE CPU! All you can do is the best you can and that's actual power into your PSU, less loss though PSU efficiency at a given load (and its a curve even for PFC corrected PSU) then subtract other loads to get as close as you can. Unless you are the inventor of a CT that is so small it can measure current on a few pins out 2,066 of them. In the end none of that matters as watts of power is not equal to thermal watts. Dont believe me, test it out for yourself and grab a 100 watt halogen bulb bare fingers for a rude awakening and a nice blister.

You cant even measure the DC current at your cables on the MOBO from the PSU because they go through another conversion at the VRMs where its all turned back into an AC square wave with a variable duty cycle and another loss. More VRMS, better power delivery but also MORE loss. So the only possible method is to measure AC current between the VRMs and the CPU as its not DC anymore and I know of no CT that small. Maybe if someone modded a mobo and interrupted the power delivery to divert it though wiring passing though CTs then to the pins actual power could be measured but still is not the same as thermal watts. 

VCCIN is not whats delievered to the CPU either. Its what is available at the input to the VRMS and again ohms law Voltage goes up, current goes down causing less heat to be generated not more. I wish I could get a group here into one of my classes to teach them this stuff so they can better understand. Or you can take the path I did. Any university with a decent EE program puts this stuff at the kindergarten level as in you better know it before you show up for your sophomore year.


----------



## qes27

farpetrad said:


> Anyone get their Threadripper 3 blocks yet? Dying to know how it performs as I put in an order the other day and can't wait :-D


Oh, you'll be waiting.

Optimus drops in the thread about every 3 or 4 weeks to say they hope they'll be shipping the Threadripper 3 blocks in about a week, then they disappear, show back up a few weeks later and say they hope they'll be shipping in about a week, repeat, etc. That's been the pattern since about the beginning of the year.


----------



## 98S4

qes27 said:


> Oh, you'll be waiting.
> 
> Optimus drops in the thread about every 3 or 4 weeks to say they hope they'll be shipping the Threadripper 3 blocks in about a week, then they disappear, show back up a few weeks later and say they hope they'll be shipping in about a week, repeat, etc. That's been the pattern since about the beginning of the year.


You really going to give them **** while they moved resources to make ventilator parts?


----------



## ciarlatano

98S4 said:


> qes27 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, you'll be waiting.
> 
> Optimus drops in the thread about every 3 or 4 weeks to say they hope they'll be shipping the Threadripper 3 blocks in about a week, then they disappear, show back up a few weeks later and say they hope they'll be shipping in about a week, repeat, etc. That's been the pattern since about the beginning of the year.
> 
> 
> 
> You really going to give them **** while they moved resources to make ventilator parts?
Click to expand...

Seriously..... their facility is making parts for equipment to save lives in a pandemic, and someone is going to b!tch about their CPU block being delayed because of it??????? Talk about entitled.....holy s.


----------



## Section31

At this point be patient folks. This whole crisis, got me convinced to do an self-enclosed external radiator project this summer.


----------



## skupples

JustinThyme said:


> LM is awesome but as stated pitting will follow and I redid one once. That’s was enough to keep me away from it except for like a delid if a 79XX CPU which I don’t intend a do over


i've yet to have it lead to temp issues, so meh. 

curious how long optimus nickel can hold up to it.

intel blocks are in plenty of stock 


as for the AM4 block. Small company, HUGE orders.* Poor decisions to consistently state unreachable goals to the public.
* compiled with them being in Chicago (inept government) during a Pandemic.

hopefully the switch over, after all the covid 19 tool up, will result in the ability to produce more, faster.



Section31 said:


> At this point be patient folks. This whole crisis, got me convinced to do an self-enclosed external radiator project this summer.


so far, it doesn't seem like Perf-PCs is having any supply issues. I suspect the fittings market might get hit though? idk. I have plenty, & grabbed a few SR2s. I should've made it 4.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> The block its not cooling the wall pull, just the cpu thats why its important to know exactly that number.
> 
> If your cpu is throwing 300-400w "socket actual pull" as heat your pulling more than that from the wall.. Its all factors psu, cables, vrms and your vin on how much is that number.
> 
> If your cpu is throwing as heat 300-400w you are pulling easy 500-600w from the wall not 17w from the pumps thats just more watts added to that equation..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What Im getting at is you keep posting pics of a dime store current meter that plugs into the socket. Trust me, Im far more well versed in current, efficiency and all things related to power. Actual power pull in watts from the socket has precisely SQUAT to do with CPU BTUs produced. I put up UPS OUTPUT that is far more accurate than a dimestore outlet monitor specifically because you kept posting it and how important it was to know, now you argue the opposite. I posted that info specifically for YOU as noone else cares. Do yourself a favor and don't attempt a battle of wits with someone who has been in the profession of critical power with a BSEE in the field for 35+years. You don't pull heat from the wall, you pull current which is driven by voltage, simple Ohms law calculation. That does not factor what size cable you use, that applies to one thing only, Voltage drop. Its does not factor in the PSU efficiency, VRMS or VIN. Fact of the matter is there is NO WAY TO MEASURE THE ACTUAL CURRENT AT THE CPU! All you can do is the best you can and that's actual power into your PSU, less loss though PSU efficiency at a given load (and its a curve even for PFC corrected PSU) then subtract other loads to get as close as you can. Unless you are the inventor of a CT that is so small it can measure current on a few pins out 2,066 of them. In the end none of that matters as watts of power is not equal to thermal watts. Dont believe me, test it out for yourself and grab a 100 watt halogen bulb bare fingers for a rude awakening and a nice blister.
> 
> You cant even measure the DC current at your cables on the MOBO from the PSU because they go through another conversion at the VRMs where its all turned back into an AC square wave with a variable duty cycle and another loss. More VRMS, better power delivery but also MORE loss. So the only possible method is to measure AC current between the VRMs and the CPU as its not DC anymore and I know of no CT that small. Maybe if someone modded a mobo and interrupted the power delivery to divert it though wiring passing though CTs then to the pins actual power could be measured but still is not the same as thermal watts.
> 
> VCCIN is not whats delievered to the CPU either. Its what is available at the input to the VRMS and again ohms law Voltage goes up, current goes down causing less heat to be generated not more. I wish I could get a group here into one of my classes to teach them this stuff so they can better understand. Or you can take the path I did. Any university with a decent EE program puts this stuff at the kindergarten level as in you better know it before you show up for your sophomore year.
Click to expand...

Im not going to bother really xD if you dont get it never will the dime store p3 its doing the same thing your ups is doing lol. But, i wasnt using that to show cooling watts out of the socket 😛 so i have to rely from the mobo info with apps like hwinfo for example that throw some approximate on what the cpu is pulling out of the "2066 pin (socket)" throwing that as heat whats what the cpu block is actually COOLING. The wall/ups measure its not the one to show and thats that. You can ask jpmboy if you want.

All my readings shown here are "actual heat" the cpu block its handling not what im pulling from the wall.

PD: your ups logs are utterly useless in another words


----------



## qes27

98S4 said:


> You really going to give them **** while they moved resources to make ventilator parts?





ciarlatano said:


> Seriously..... their facility is making parts for equipment to save lives in a pandemic, and someone is going to b!tch about their CPU block being delayed because of it??????? Talk about entitled.....holy s.


Unfortunately for your righteous indignation, that's been the MO for months before anyone was talking about COVID, and _they themselves_ came on here since their parent company started ramping up round connector parts for ventilators and said yet again, just another week folks, and, yet again, another 3 weeks have passed since then with nothing.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> i've yet to have it lead to temp issues, so meh.
> 
> curious how long optimus nickel can hold up to it.
> 
> intel blocks are in plenty of stock
> 
> 
> as for the AM4 block. Small company, HUGE orders.* Poor decisions to consistently state unreachable goals to the public.
> * compiled with them being in Chicago (inept government) during a Pandemic.
> 
> hopefully the switch over, after all the covid 19 tool up, will result in the ability to produce more, faster.
> 
> 
> 
> so far, it doesn't seem like Perf-PCs is having any supply issues. I suspect the fittings market might get hit though? idk. I have plenty, & grabbed a few SR2s. I should've made it 4.


I think fittings are effected. I will have to wait longer for the fittings to come in.


----------



## skupples

true. they've been leading people on for 2080TI GPU blocks for nearly 6 months now. Lovely that they've been redesigned 7 times... probably shouldn't shown people a showroom build, and pretend like its your finished product in good faith.  

anyone else find it interresting that the GPU was only held up by the back plate... months later now, we still have no photos of this fancy back plate they had to fashion. 

pretty typical, but it doesn't make it any more palatable.

eh, before COVID, I was hoping for them before 3080ti releases due to their deliberate pattern of misleading their customers, with zero email communication outside of the original pre-order receipt. i'm on the verge of just getting my money back tbh.

hopefully the SigV2's cold plate isn't an issue for 9700k. Worst case, lappy lappy. I'm a sucker for an all metal block.



qes27 said:


> Unfortunately for your righteous indignation, that's been the MO for months before anyone was talking about COVID, and _they themselves_ came on here since their parent company started ramping up round connector parts for ventilators and said yet again, just another week folks, and, yet again, another 3 weeks have passed since then with nothing.


didn't they also say it was only another week for nickel parts? Not sure we've seen more than 2-3 people post photos of TR4 blocks this month. so at least they're trickling in, unlike GPU blocks, completely unseen in 6 months.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> Im not going to bother really xD if you dont get it never will the dime store p3 its doing the same thing your ups is doing lol. But, i wasnt using that to show cooling watts out of the socket 😛 so i have to rely from the mobo info with apps like hwinfo for example that throw some approximate on what the cpu is pulling out of the "2066 pin (socket)" throwing that as heat whats what the cpu block is actually COOLING. The wall/ups measure its not the one to show and thats that. You can ask jpmboy if you want.
> 
> All my readings shown here are "actual heat" the cpu block its handling not what im pulling from the wall.
> 
> PD: your ups logs are utterly useless in another words


Dude, all I can say is get it together before you come at me with such nonsense. I provided the UPS logs for one purpose and one purpose only....your cry baby pull from the wall posts and requests. No one else wanted it nor displayed it and I just happened to have it and it’s accurate to 0.005%, something your dime store adapter cannot do. Bottom line is we are right back where we started. Your pull from the socket theory proves nothing and You CANT measure what you are pulling at the CPU socket and yet you still don’t get it. Power draw in watts and cooling in watts are not even the same calculation. Go get an education in the subject matter before you come back at me with it. I live for this. It’s what I do for a living on a scale you can’t even imagine. Personal PCs are a child’s toys in comparison. In a single phrase...”Check Yourself!”


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> true. they've been leading people on for 2080TI GPU blocks for nearly 6 months now. Lovely that they've been redesigned 7 times... probably shouldn't shown people a showroom build, and pretend like its your finished product in good faith.
> 
> anyone else find it interresting that the GPU was only held up by the back plate... months later now, we still have no photos of this fancy back plate they had to fashion.
> 
> pretty typical, but it doesn't make it any more palatable.
> 
> eh, before COVID, I was hoping for them before 3080ti releases due to their deliberate pattern of misleading their customers, with zero email communication outside of the original pre-order receipt. i'm on the verge of just getting my money back tbh.
> 
> hopefully the SigV2's cold plate isn't an issue for 9700k. Worst case, lappy lappy. I'm a sucker for an all metal block.
> 
> 
> 
> didn't they also say it was only another week for nickel parts? Not sure we've seen more than 2-3 people post photos of TR4 blocks this month. so at least they're trickling in, unlike GPU blocks, completely unseen in 6 months.


Back plates seem to be a very common excuse. I got the same thing from EKWB and Watercool on the Strix cards. I’m like what? That’s the easiest part! Then later I got it was a hold up on RGB strips which I canned anyhow and trimmed down some Corsair strips. I know I’d be furious if I preordered and prepaid and 6 months later I still don’t have a product. Don’t care if it’s a Ferrari or a bucket of bazooka joe bubble gum. If you paid you can easily get your money back as it’s illegal to charge without intent to ship. Unfortunately been down that rd more time than I care to admit. Now if it’s not available to ship by next business day I don’t order it and if it’s not shipped by next business day I cancel. If they don’t honor the cancel then takes two seconds with an app for CC to dispute charges. Have no problem in paying what I think is fair for a premium product but I Damn sure expect to get it sooner rather than later. I’m impatient like that. I spend weeks researching things then when I’ve decided to buy I want it like NOW!!


----------



## Shawnb99

It’s called a pre-order and expected delivery date for a reason, it means things mage change and that date could be delayed.

Now 6+ months is a hell of a long time to wait and people have a right to be angry but they knew what they were buying wasn’t made yet and if they can’t wait then maybe they shouldn’t pre-order stuff and wait for retail.

They are swamped with demand and also are helping with COVID, that means delay’s. All companies go through this when demand is super high. Look at Heatkiller last year, was almost impossible to find their products in stock for months and they are bigger then Optimus.

All you can do is wait.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> It’s called a pre-order and expected delivery date for a reason, it means things mage change and that date could be delayed.
> 
> Now 6+ months is a hell of a long time to wait and people have a right to be angry but they knew what they were buying wasn’t made yet and if they can’t wait then maybe they shouldn’t pre-order stuff and wait for retail.
> 
> They are swamped with demand and also are helping with COVID, that means delay’s. All companies go through this when demand is super high. Look at Heatkiller last year, was almost impossible to find their products in stock for months and they are bigger then Optimus.
> 
> All you can do is wait.


You can get your money back. On a preorder they are authorized to do a soft Hit on your card that should clear off in less than a week. I can’t speak for other countries but the internet trade commission aka ATC prohibits actually taking the fund until they ship. Otherwise some jack wagon can sell thousands of $300 blocks then bail never having shipped a thing. No you don’t have to just wait. And hope they ship.


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> It’s called a pre-order and expected delivery date for a reason, it means things mage change and that date could be delayed.
> *
> Now 6+ months is a hell of a long time to wait and people have a right to be angry but they knew what they were buying wasn’t made yet and if they can’t wait then maybe they shouldn’t pre-order stuff and wait for retail.*
> 
> They are swamped with demand and also are helping with COVID, that means delay’s. All companies go through this when demand is super high. Look at Heatkiller last year, was almost impossible to find their products in stock for months and they are bigger then Optimus.
> 
> All you can do is wait.


you're just hell bent on the virtue signaling as of recent, aren't you?

This all came up because someone brought up how they've been "next weeking" people for months. I pointed out they've been doing the same thing with the pre-order blocks that were TOTALLY supposed to be ready by January February Next week, wait, no next week... no next week!!!!

The point is - they need to properly set expectations, otherwise they're misleading people. Intent doesn't matter, as the end result is the same. 

I have two choices actually. get my money back, or keep waiting. N it's completely OK for my to vent some frustration on the matter literally almost 5 months to the day since I played the pre-order for the totally gonna be ready in January blocks.

misleading the community to keep buying things, even though there are clear internal turn around and production issues = immoral, and even borderline bold face lying. Neither are acceptable, EVEN WHEN YOU'RE A BUSINESS.


of course, COVID19 totally withstanding. (we'd still be waiting for our stuff, with or without it though)


----------



## farpetrad

I didn't read through the entire thread before ordering just the last few pages and seeing the last post saying they were going to ship had me excited. That is crazy that 5 months on you are still being told next week next week. Sure COVID-19 is a high priority and I get that but being mislead for so long is wrong. This really makes me want to get my money back and go with something else


----------



## skupples

what did you order?

if intel block, they're in stock.

otherwise, unknown ETA. "soon"


----------



## Shawnb99

The next weeking of people is BS. If they don’t have a set date then tell people that and let them make an informed decision to refund if not. Stringing them along is a shady business move. Not a good look for a small new company. Total honesty should be the only option.
Delays are understandable when communicated honestly not by misleading people. That’s a sure way to kill your business


----------



## skupples

agree.


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> agree.


What’s worse is what’s the finished product going to look like? It’s been several months and by way of their own communications several changes have been made. You may get a block of copper thats for and inlet and outlet bored in it. And an unfinished piece of cast acrylic from foundation block overflow gorilla glued to one side of it with instructions of where to drill mounting holes. 

Came out like a firecracker with a wet fuse. I just pray for you guys that have been waiting that you get your block before your system is obsolete. 

I can only speak for myself in that I don’t have that kind of patience. I would have gotten my money and looked elsewhere by now.


----------



## Shawnb99

Also since it’s been a week.... I think. Where are my dual pumps!!!!


----------



## skupples

i keep PMing you the same question


----------



## criskoe

Curious question. Realistically what kinda benefit is really going to come from these unreleased gpu blocks? Yeah warranty. Yeah made in USA. Yeah it’s Optimus. But I mean arnt currently available gpu blocks already more then enough cooling? 

Don’t get me wrong. I’m sure when they finally release they will probably be overkill and over built which is awesome and These blocks strike me as for the true enthusiasts. But with that being said. The 3000 series are around the corner (most likely). I just can’t understand why anyone would keep their pre order at this point. Cause all y’all are going to get new 3000 series when it releases I have no doubt about that. Lol. Just seems silly to spend that kinda dough for a few degrees for such a short period of time. 

Anyone keeping their pre order wanna chime in as to why? Not hating. Just honesty curious.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I don't even pre-order gpu's or cpu's... for that matter if it's not in stock welp keep looking.

Best thing about the optimus line is the newer cold plates which are pretty awesome if they fit the chip seeing gpu is bare die doubt that will be an issue.

Waiting 4 months for a gpu block well that's dedication


----------



## skupples

only reason it's happening is because I had decided not to watercool this 2080ti. 

then I saw their no-island, mounted cold plate gpu design, n wanted.


----------



## criskoe

skupples said:


> only reason it's happening is because I had decided not to watercool this 2080ti.
> 
> then I saw their no-island, mounted cold plate gpu design, n wanted.


I see. Yeah it’s a interesting design for sure. That makes sense if you don’t currently have a block for your card. I guess I assumed that anyone that would be interested in it would probably already have their card cooled with something else. I don’t know tho. Back in January yeah for sure. But mid April and it still hasn’t released. You sir have some good patients. For me I’d say screw it and keep it on air at this point in time. Unless of course you have no intention of buying a new 3000 series gpu when they release and plan on keeping you 2080ti for a while longer. 

I do personally like how thick it’s suppose to be. But not gunna lie tho, From a aesthetics stand point. The current pictures of it is kinda blah to me. Not saying it needs RGB or anything. And I get looks should come second. But it’s so dam plain looking.. Maybe that’s what they are going for. But I sure hope they add some style to it.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Late to the 2080ti game he got a good deal on it though.


----------



## skupples

^^ picked up for $850 used.

i could care less about the aesthetic of it. just the functionality. no islands also means less trapped coolant to discolor and uggo things up, when you do look at it.


----------



## Shawnb99

Sure it looks like an ugly thick ass acrylic block with some copper inside, even the ports are ugly looking but then again you'll know right away it's an Optimus block so maybe that's what they are going for. As long as it's the best who cares how ugly it looks. If you want to show off go buy a EK or someone else's block, this is for those who want the best.

That or whoever designed it was stoned/drunk and said **** it make it a solid block. You'd think it would make them easier to produce.....


----------



## criskoe

Shawnb99 said:


> this is for those who want the best...


That’s a pretty small market share to only target. There’s nothing wrong with being the best and still looking good doing it. It is possible. Visually all the other parts Optimus sells. They do look like they care about visual design. The pre order thread ripper looks awesome. Looks like a finished product. My guess is the pics of the gpu blocks are it’s beta like stage.


----------



## Shawnb99

criskoe said:


> There’s nothing wrong with being the best and still looking good doing it. It is possible. Visually all the other parts Optimus sells. They do look like they care about visual design. The pre order thread ripper looks awesome. Looks like a finished product. My guess is the pics of the gpu blocks are it’s beta like stage.


I was actually going to say that block isn't that impressive looking either. To each their own. Of course they can and should design a better looking block but really at this stage most if not all just want the damn thing.

Hopefully we'll get a nice looking block for the 3080TI's


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Only price and availability really matter 
Looks unless one has a vertical mount it never gets looked at upside down only the back plate does maybe.


----------



## criskoe

Shawnb99 said:


> I was actually going to say that block isn't that impressive looking either. To each their own. Of course they can and should design a better looking block but really at this stage most if not all just want the damn thing.
> 
> Hopefully we'll get a nice looking block for the 3080TI's


Yeah I’m not in the market for a 2080ti block. I’m still holding my 1080tis till the 3000 series are out and I’m sure hoping they come soon. Lol. I’ve held scratching that gpu upgrade itch for so long. Lol. But I’ve been keeping a close eye on these Optimus blocks as they look promising. 

I as well am hoping for a nice looking 3080ti block but I also sure hope it actually releases before halfway through its life cycle. Lol.


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Sure it looks like an ugly *thick ass acrylic block* with some copper inside, *even the ports are ugly looking* .


Hi,
Looks like the in/outlet ports are built into the main block not applied/ screwed onto it like all others are.
Not ever likely to leak if so.


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Looks like the in/outlet ports are built into the main block not applied/ screwed onto it like all others are.
> Not ever likely to leak if so.


Yeah looks like it's one solid block. Looks like it might be a bit heavy as well. Might want to keep an eye out for GPU sag


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah looks like it's one solid block. Looks like it might be a bit heavy as well. Might want to keep an eye out for GPU sag


Hi,
Inside smooth too unlike a host of others with router bit marks 
Sag is usually pretty easy to fix 
I use the cables alone to help take the sag out routing from the top not the bottom for example.


----------



## skupples

You’d think the higher grade acrylic could be made thinner.

Don’t really care.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Having one piece ports are the thickest point 
Milling all down to thinner thickness is just a waste of material plus added strength being thicker

How many bent gpu blocks have you seen or read about ?


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Having one piece ports are the thickest point
> Milling all down to thinner thickness is just a waste of material plus added strength being thicker
> 
> How many bent gpu blocks have you seen or read about ?


Saw two of them in one order from PPCs Barrow POS blocks. both warped to hell and back and both with sharp shards everywhere even gouged channels that could be seen thought the acrylic. Thats what happens when you take someones word at something then figure out they could care less about what I got so long as a sale was made. That crap went back faster than it arrived. When A restocking fee was mentioned I sent the pics and asked to please not make me take this to the CC company. They took them back with no fees. Utter CRAP!! You will never see me buy another barrow anything....!!!!


----------



## farpetrad

skupples said:


> what did you order?
> 
> if intel block, they're in stock.
> 
> otherwise, unknown ETA. "soon"


The threadripper 3 block.


----------



## skupples

i'd email them or reach out on social media. they've been ignoring us since Thrash took a dremmel to the sample block.

I'm truly curious what will come first.

2080ti slayers or 2080ti optimus waterblock. I'm hoping AMD drops something that's vastly faster. Not just 10-15%.


----------



## springs113

skupples said:


> i'd email them or reach out on social media. they've been ignoring us since Thrash took a dremmel to the sample block.
> 
> I'm truly curious what will come first.
> 
> 2080ti slayers or 2080ti optimus waterblock. I'm hoping AMD drops something that's vastly faster. Not just 10-15%.


 a bit off topic but... judging a 40cu navi faster than a 64cu Vega it is safe to say that a 40cu rdna2 might be just as fast as a 2080ti. We all know that will not be big navi. Here's to hoping more unique water blocks for these cards.


----------



## farpetrad

skupples said:


> i'd email them or reach out on social media. they've been ignoring us since Thrash took a dremmel to the sample block.
> 
> I'm truly curious what will come first.
> 
> 2080ti slayers or 2080ti optimus waterblock. I'm hoping AMD drops something that's vastly faster. Not just 10-15%.


I have reached out through email on Monday. Thinking if I don't hear anything back soon if its time to call the CC company and get the charge reversed.


----------



## JustinThyme

farpetrad said:


> I have reached out through email on Monday. Thinking if I don't hear anything back soon if its time to call the CC company and get the charge reversed.


I just got a replacement cold plate in the mail today. Fairly quick when compared to some other things took 2 months to get the springless mount and only a month to get a replacement cold plate that was shedding nickel that is marketed to be impossible with the process used. It’s annoying to make multiple contact attempts through different channels and don’t so much as get a pi$$ off reply. This is what’s going to send them down in flames faster than anything. While I’d love to see them succeed my bet is in a year the name won’t be remembered much less ordered from. I’ve never had such poor response from any CS Dept including ASUS and that’s saying something!


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> they've been ignoring us since Thrash took a dremmel to the sample block.
> .


Hi,
Sad you don't know the lapping or polishing processes none of which include a dremel so please stop misleading any of these processes lol 









Only item I used a dremel on was to simply sand off these lower parts off the bottom mount of a EK Magnitude mounting bracket not anything on any optimus block.
Which I might also add these lower parts of the mounting bracket were not in the way so this did nothing.


----------



## farpetrad

JustinThyme said:


> I just got a replacement cold plate in the mail today. Fairly quick when compared to some other things took 2 months to get the springless mount and only a month to get a replacement cold plate that was shedding nickel that is marketed to be impossible with the process used. It’s annoying to make multiple contact attempts through different channels and don’t so much as get a pi$$ off reply. This is what’s going to send them down in flames faster than anything. While I’d love to see them succeed my bet is in a year the name won’t be remembered much less ordered from. I’ve never had such poor response from any CS Dept including ASUS and that’s saying something!


Yeah, I understand they are busy helping fight COVID but they could respond in a timely manner. This will be their doom like you say.


----------



## sakete

farpetrad said:


> Yeah, I understand they are busy helping fight COVID but they could respond in a timely manner. This will be their doom like you say.


Well, if this is going to be their doom, so much for that 10 year warranty


----------



## CAL V

Almost put my order for a foundation AMD waterblock for one upcoming build, guess I'll wait out until things get sorted out and preorder start shipping. 

Stumbled upon this thread when I was researching for Heatkiller IV, still very interested in getting their waterblock though.


----------



## ThrashZone

CAL V said:


> Almost put my order for a foundation AMD waterblock for one upcoming build, guess I'll wait out until things get sorted out and preorder start shipping.
> 
> Stumbled upon this thread when I was researching for Heatkiller IV, still very interested in getting their waterblock though.


Hi,
Performance pc has some stock if you haven't checked there plus OCN55 discount code for everyday 5% off
https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...-block-acrylic-satin-aluminum-copper-amd.html

https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...u-block-acetal-black-aluminum-nickel-amd.html


----------



## CAL V

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Performance pc has some stock if you haven't checked there plus OCN55 discount code for everyday 5% off
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...-block-acrylic-satin-aluminum-copper-amd.html
> 
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...u-block-acetal-black-aluminum-nickel-amd.html


I am aware that some variations are still available at PPCs, but I'm looking for the nickel with acrylic top version. Just to match the theme I'm going with and also not too sure about the look of bare copper over time (tarnishing). 

Thanks for the heads up and the discount code. Shipping cost is still quite brutal for Asia though.


----------



## Avacado

@CAL V


As stated by @iamjanco 

"
Btw, their sale ends the 18th. Take 18% off those prices above:

USE THESE CODES TO HELP YOU SAVE:
12% Off Any Order: FREETIME2020-12
15% Off Orders $150+: FREETIME2020-15
18% Off Orders $299+: FREETIME2020-18 "

That is a huge discount.


----------



## ThrashZone

CAL V said:


> I am aware that some variations are still available at PPCs, but I'm looking for the nickel with acrylic top version. Just to match the theme I'm going with and also not too sure about the look of bare copper over time (tarnishing).
> 
> Thanks for the heads up and the discount code. Shipping cost is still quite brutal for Asia though.


Hi,
Sun light does the most tarnishing so not a big deal but nickle is popular 
Most people use color fluids where tarnish is completely a nonissue no light gets through.

Shipping is always an issue for sure PPC seems higher than most just for US.


----------



## ThrashZone

Avacado said:


> @CAL V
> 
> 
> As stated by @iamjanco
> 
> "
> Btw, their sale ends the 18th. Take 18% off those prices above:
> 
> USE THESE CODES TO HELP YOU SAVE:
> 12% Off Any Order: FREETIME2020-12
> 15% Off Orders $150+: FREETIME2020-15
> 18% Off Orders $299+: FREETIME2020-18 "
> 
> That is a huge discount.


Hi,
Nice i missed those codes he didn't wake up the PPC support thread ?


----------



## Avacado

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nice i missed those codes he didn't wake up the PPC support thread ?


Yea, I caught it in the last purchase thread. I bought a few things of course.


----------



## CAL V

Avacado said:


> @CAL V
> 
> 
> As stated by @iamjanco
> 
> "
> Btw, their sale ends the 18th. Take 18% off those prices above:
> 
> USE THESE CODES TO HELP YOU SAVE:
> 12% Off Any Order: FREETIME2020-12
> 15% Off Orders $150+: FREETIME2020-15
> 18% Off Orders $299+: FREETIME2020-18 "
> 
> That is a huge discount.


Yeah, I saw that in on PPCs website while I was just window shopping. But I'm still hesitating.



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Sun light does the most tarnishing so not a big deal but nickle is popular
> Most people use color fluids where tarnish is completely a nonissue no light gets through.
> 
> Shipping is always an issue for sure PPC seems higher than most just for US.


I didn't know that it's actually sunlight that caused it, I'm new to watercooling, lots to learn. 

I'm planning to run distilled water with Mayhems biocide+ and inhibitor+, most of the things are black/dark grey in the build. I only intend for the waterblocks to be nickel and acrylic to expose the liquid and some structure of the block. Tubings and fittings will be black too, also deciding between A60G or ZMT (this seem to have some issue with fitment?), but the A60G is really pricey about $20/metre while ZMT is available at that price for 3 metres.

Surprisingly international shipping is cheaper with PPC than buying directly from Optimus


----------



## iamjanco

ThrashZone said:


> Shipping is always an issue for sure PPC seems higher than most just for US.
> 
> 
> 
> Avacado said:
> 
> 
> 
> @CAL V
> 
> 
> As stated by @iamjanco
> 
> "
> Btw, their sale ends the 18th. Take 18% off those prices above:
> 
> USE THESE CODES TO HELP YOU SAVE:
> 12% Off Any Order: FREETIME2020-12
> 15% Off Orders $150+: FREETIME2020-15
> 18% Off Orders $299+: FREETIME2020-18 "
> 
> That is a huge discount.
> 
> 
> 
> ThrashZone said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Nice i missed those codes he didn't wake up the PPC support thread ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Free shipping has been offered by them off and on for a while now, currently for orders above $75; and next time I'll add the codes to the PPCS Support thread as well. 

@Kenshiro 26 might be out of action because of COVID-19.


----------



## Avacado

CAL V said:


> I didn't know that it's actually sunlight that caused it, I'm new to watercooling, lots to learn.


Don't worry, take your time and have PLENTY of paper towels on hand. I had 3 leaks last night doing some loop maintenance due to stupidity (Forgetting what was open etc...


----------



## ThrashZone

CAL V said:


> Yeah, I saw that in on PPCs website while I was just window shopping. But I'm still hesitating.
> 
> I didn't know that it's actually sunlight that caused it, I'm new to watercooling, lots to learn.
> 
> I'm planning to run distilled water with Mayhems biocide+ and inhibitor+, most of the things are black/dark grey in the build. I only intend for the waterblocks to be nickel and acrylic to expose the liquid and some structure of the block. Tubings and fittings will be black too, also deciding between A60G or ZMT (this seem to have some issue with fitment?), but the A60G is really pricey about $20/metre while ZMT is available at that price for 3 metres.
> 
> Surprisingly international shipping is cheaper with PPC than buying directly from Optimus


Hi,
I believe you're better off with xl clear premix actually rather than distilled and mayhem ++ additives reason being distilled water or EU equivalent evaporates a lot 
I loose like 1/2" of water level on my x99 system every 2-3 weeks that is quite a bit where as premix has near zero evaporation at all.

But either way you'd be fine with copper cold plate on a solid or plexi foundation top 
Tarnish is overblown all my cold plates are copper all look fine and yes I prefer plexi top too to see what air... might be in the block


----------



## criskoe

Wonder what happens to Optimus wb with just distilled water? Optimus claims it’s safe even with plain water. Destroyed in just 5 months. I knew it was too good to be true...

https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/g332te/water_block_deterioration/


----------



## sakete

criskoe said:


> Wonder what happens to Optimus wb with just distilled water? Optimus claims it’s safe even with plain water. Destroyed in just 5 months. I knew it was too good to be true...
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/g332te/water_block_deterioration/


Interesting. Wonder what the root cause is. Or maybe Optimus is more marketing than anything else.


----------



## mgoldb2

Optimus posted another update on there website

https://optimuspc.com/pages/covid

Now estimating last week of April for Threadripper blocks. Wonder if that Raw copper only or the extra 2 weeks from last estimate gave them time to get the Nickel done on the blocks. I would think the coldplate could be sent to get Nickel plated at same time the brackets get anodized.


----------



## Shawnb99

criskoe said:


> Wonder what happens to Optimus wb with just distilled water? Optimus claims it’s safe even with plain water. Destroyed in just 5 months. I knew it was too good to be true...
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/g332te/water_block_deterioration/


It wasn't just Optimus though. That was the issue, the other components caused the distilled to become acidic and that is what did the block in.

Run a loop with JUST an Optimus block and show it destroyed and then you can call them out on their claims


----------



## criskoe

sakete said:


> Interesting. Wonder what the root cause is. Or maybe Optimus is more marketing than anything else.


Probably going to hear more excuses. I think someone else on here has even had issues with flaking even with purpose made coolant. I bet with time more and more people are gunna find their special nickel claim is no more then bs.


----------



## criskoe

Shawnb99 said:


> It wasn't just Optimus though. That was the issue, the other components caused the distilled to become acidic and that is what did the block in.
> 
> Run a loop with JUST an Optimus block and show it destroyed and then you can call them out on their claims


How can you “run a loop with just Optimus block”? Optimus doesn’t make radiators? And their gpu block is mia... Huh? Why bother make that claim then? Safe with plain water? Who’s gunna run a loop with out a radiator. Lol. So silly.


----------



## Shawnb99

criskoe said:


> Probably going to hear more excuses. I think someone else on here has even had issues with flaking even with purpose made coolant. I bet with time more and more people are gunna find their special nickel claim is no more then bs.


Do you have something against them cause I just searched this thread for the word flaking and not a single person has reported any flaking issues with Optimus. So try again.


----------



## criskoe

Shawnb99 said:


> Do you have something against them cause I just searched this thread for the word flaking and not a single person has reported any flaking issues with Optimus. So try again.


Um Justin’s had flaking. He’s talked about it plenty of times. I’m not just making crap up. Common man. No need to try again dude.

Not sure why you seem to be taking this personal? I’m not. Just sharing a post that has to do with these blocks. Sorry if I’m a little sceptical about their indestructible nickel claims now. Defiantly didn’t mean to offend you if I did.


----------



## Kana Chan

criskoe said:


> How can you “run a loop with just Optimus block”? Optimus doesn’t make radiators? And their gpu block is mia... Huh? Why bother make that claim then? Safe with plain water? Who’s gunna run a loop with out a radiator. Lol. So silly.


I think it was said a while back it could be ran with distilled water once they get radiators/gpus out. Not at the moment though?



criskoe said:


> Um Justin’s had flaking. He’s talked about it plenty of times. No need to try again dude.


Something about accidentally shipping the wrong part by them?


----------



## mgoldb2

Kana Chan said:


> I think it was said a while back it could be ran with distilled water once they get radiators/gpus out. Not at the moment though?
> 
> 
> 
> Something about accidentally shipping the wrong part by them?


For reference
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-277.html#post28401328

and Optimus Reply

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-277.html#post28401386


----------



## CAL V

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I believe you're better off with xl clear premix actually rather than distilled and mayhem ++ additives reason being distilled water or EU equivalent evaporates a lot
> I loose like 1/2" of water level on my x99 system every 2-3 weeks that is quite a bit where as premix has near zero evaporation at all.
> 
> But either way you'd be fine with copper cold plate on a solid or plexi foundation top
> Tarnish is overblown all my cold plates are copper all look fine and yes I prefer plexi top too to see what air... might be in the block


I'll note that down, Mayhems stuff are not easy to find locally, everyone is just stocking EK premix. Shipping the X1 premix will definitely be way too expensive.



criskoe said:


> Wonder what happens to Optimus wb with just distilled water? Optimus claims it’s safe even with plain water. Destroyed in just 5 months. I knew it was too good to be true...
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/g332te/water_block_deterioration/


Uh oh, that looks terrible, I almost placed an order for a nickel one. 
At this point I'll just follow what TrashZone said, just get a copper one and be happy with it.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Growth running just water no way you lye lol heck why not throw silver coil in there like all the old farts do 

Clean it and do it again if you're silly enough it's not a complete optimus system though just a cpu block :doh:


----------



## ThrashZone

CAL V said:


> I'll note that down, Mayhems stuff are not easy to find locally, everyone is just stocking EK premix. Shipping the X1 premix will definitely be way too expensive.
> 
> Uh oh, that looks terrible, I almost placed an order for a nickel one.
> At this point I'll just follow what TrashZone said, just get a copper one and be happy with it.


Hi,
Yeah just use x1 premix 
Be sure to when cleaning radiators/.... use a glass auto motive filter to catch all the crap in the water too so at least you get rid of it 
CPU blocks make excellent filter but are a pain to clean as shown 
I use this type but even a clear plastic one will due this one has 3/8" hose fitting making it perfect size for 3/8-5/8" tubing.
https://www.autozone.com/fuel-syste...2369-premium-clearview-fuel-filter/352786_0_0


----------



## skupples

yeah i'm pretty well aware of the difference between lapping a top & grinding down the mounting bracket. thx though.


not our fault dude stopped really paying attention & showing up after all that went down.

if no availibility of Mayhems or Aquacomputer CLEAR, then move towards making your own from diluting automotive coolant.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> yeah i'm pretty well aware of the difference between lapping a top & grinding down the mounting bracket. thx though.
> 
> 
> not our fault dude stopped really paying attention & showing up after all that went down.


Hi,
I'm pretty sure you don't because keep saying dremel 
Well you really say dremmel lol but what ever dude it was just a sand paper wheel could of been for a drill but regardless was not on a optimus block so please get the story right if you insist on telling it.


----------



## skupples

wait, so you didn't grind down the bottom of both the optimus mount, and EK mount?

dremmel = slang for fast spinning sand paper.

oh look, my all metal is sitting @ my front door.


----------



## criskoe

Look let’s get one thing strait. By no means am I implying people shouldn’t buy Optimus due to flaking nickel. There is not enough data or proof that says their nickel is a problem I just simply shared a post on reddit that I just saw. I will admit I am sceptical that even with advanced plating processes, it might have been too much to say their nickel is indestructible. Quote “it’s even safe in salt water” So you Optimus fanboys don’t need to get all up in arms cause I posted something negative. Secondly. That’s not my block and I didn’t run just distilled water. I personally wouldnt run JUST distilled water ever. But that’s the problem isn’t it. Plenty of people out there believe that just distilled water is fine. Lots of the, lol. Just go to the recent ek thread about flaking of their fittings and you will see plenty of people claiming they have only ever just run distilled water and not had issues with their components except for EK. Obviously this guy in the reddit post thought it was safe. He saw Optimus’s claim and ran with it. But again let’s not make this into a distilled water only debate cause I’m not advocating using just distilled water. I personally have no issues buying and using purpose made coolants. 

So with that said. If this problem is just due to not having an entire 100% Optimus loop. It might be a good idea for them to be really clear about mixing their products with other non Optimus brands and just distilled water. Or maybe hold off on claims until they can actually offer a 100% Optimus loop maybe?


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, if you want to summon me, @ me 

Otherwise, these forum posts get huge and sometimes off topic, so it's hard to read everything!

Yes, we feel super bad about the delays!! It's both a challenge of being a small company, underestimating orders and overestimating our ability to produce more product quickly. And that was before covid. After covid, half our guys started to stay home, though no one got the bug. Then our partners started dropping, and it's been a mess. But we're still working to get through this  

The reason for the "it's shipping next week" and then missing it is always a different reason. Right now, our supplier for anodizing closed right at the beginning of covid. Then opened up again. Then closed down again and supposedly they'll be back open next week. They have 100% of our threadripper block brackets. So we're basically stuck until they can release them to us. 

Many of the delays in the past are due to extensive testing and finding upgrades. We definitely made the mistake of doing preorders (never again) when we were 90% done with the design. But both the GPU and Threadripper have proven to be really tricky projects, especially since we believe we can extract even more performance out of them. Our most recent change to the TR block was the mounting. You'll be able to use the T20 torque driver included with the TR cpu to install the block with the right torque. It's a super clean and exact system we're really excited about.

As for the nickel issues discussed, these are SUPER RARE since we've sent out so many blocks and only hear about tiny problems. There was one batch of nickel plates that had a defect, which is what JT saw. We're replacing all of them 100% of course. We stand behind our warranty. It happens, we can't be perfect all the time, only promise to replace product if there is a defect on our end. 

Also, our blocks are safe for distilled by themselves. We can't possibly warranty a block when using water with aluminum. Or any coolant with aluminum or anything that is an obvious conflict. We'll dig into the results of why that one guy had a strange reaction with his block, though this is the first time we've seen this happen. 

As for preorders, if you wish to cancel, you can! We'll be giving 15% off for everyone who preordered, retroactively. We're doing everything we can to ship! 

Any questions, I'm here!


----------



## Optimus WC

criskoe said:


> Look let’s get one thing strait. By no means am I implying people shouldn’t buy Optimus due to flaking nickel. There is not enough data or proof that says their nickel is a problem I just simply shared a post on reddit that I just saw. I will admit I am sceptical that even with advanced plating processes, it might have been too much to say their nickel is indestructible. Quote “it’s even safe in salt water” So you Optimus fanboys don’t need to get all up in arms cause I posted something negative. Secondly. That’s not my block and I didn’t run just distilled water. I personally wouldnt run JUST distilled water ever. But that’s the problem isn’t it. Plenty of people out there believe that just distilled water is fine. Lots of the, lol. Just go to the recent ek thread about flaking of their fittings and you will see plenty of people claiming they have only ever just run distilled water and not had issues with their components except for EK. Obviously this guy in the reddit post thought it was safe. He saw Optimus’s claim and ran with it. But again let’s not make this into a distilled water only debate cause I’m not advocating using just distilled water. I personally have no issues buying and using purpose made coolants.
> 
> So with that said. If this problem is just due to not having an entire 100% Optimus loop. It might be a good idea for them to be really clear about mixing their products with other non Optimus brands and just distilled water. Or maybe hold off on claims until they can actually offer a 100% Optimus loop maybe?


Yup, you're definitely right. We'll clean up the language. Our early customers were hard core builders with lots of experience. Being the most expensive and performance-oriented product, most of the builders know what they're doing who would appreciate the difference between electrolytic nickel and electroless marine grade nickel. 

But obviously first timers are buying our blocks  And that's a good thing, means more people are making liquid cooled systems for the first time, and looking for quality not just rgbs. But, yes, we'll need to speak to the novice builder, don't want them having a bad time.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> wait, *so you didn't grind down the bottom of both the optimus mount, and EK mount?
> *
> dremmel = slang for fast spinning sand paper.
> 
> oh look, my all metal is sitting @ my front door.


Hi,
No just the ek mount.

I didn't do anything to the optimus mounts on either the sigV2 or foundation.

I only lapped the sigV2 because it had too much bow and didn't fit my chip well where as the foundation fit perfectly out of the box.

SigV2 only way to lower it's bow is to sand the surface that shows brass and sand paper scratches on here 
No dremel involved
Piece of glass and sand paper is all 









Wet sandpaper 400-1000 grit before polishing with scratch out finally and a buffing wheel pad.


----------



## criskoe

Optimus WC said:


> As for the nickel issues discussed, these are SUPER RARE since we've sent out so many blocks and only hear about tiny problems. There was one batch of nickel plates that had a defect, which is what JT saw. We're replacing all of them 100% of course. We stand behind our warranty. It happens, we can't be perfect all the time, only promise to replace product if there is a defect on our end.
> 
> Also, our blocks are safe for distilled by themselves. We can't possibly warranty a block when using water with aluminum. Or any coolant with aluminum or anything that is an obvious conflict. We'll dig into the results of why that one guy had a strange reaction with his block, though this is the first time we've seen this happen.
> 
> Any questions, I'm here!


That’s good that guy will get a new block. That’s the important part. Please clarify tho for users. Are your blocks safe to use with OTHER BRANDS COPPER parts and just distilled water?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Optimus just needs to make a comb lol to clean the silly people cooling fins after they do stupid things block is fine cold plate needs a bath in alcohol 

Not many people cared about the claim of indestructible nickle plating but did assume it would have to be a complete optimus build not mixed.

Rads are filthy that is a fact.
Pure distilled water stuff grows another fact 90f degree water and all hell just look at the gulf of mexico all sorts of flesh eating garbage.... out there.


----------



## Optimus WC

criskoe said:


> That’s good that guy will get a new block. That’s the important part. Please clarify tho for users. Are your blocks safe to use with OTHER BRANDS COPPER parts and just distilled water?


Yes, that's the idea. 

At the same time, there's copper and "copper." We've been seeing other brands' blocks and fittings that have ferrous particles in them. Or the same tools are used to make both copper and aluminum parts. This means bits of aluminum or ferrous metals are being embedded in the copper. And this isn't theoretical, like if magnets stick, that's a problem. 

So at this point, probably best we stop discussing distilled water. For the hardcore builders, who know what distilled means and can QC your parts, you can use distilled. After all, pure water is the best thermally. For the casual user, we'll make sure to recommend coolants.


----------



## ThrashZone

CAL V said:


> I'll note that down, Mayhems stuff are not easy to find locally, everyone is just stocking EK premix. Shipping the X1 premix will definitely be way too expensive.
> .


Hi,
The mayhems x1 clear concentrate shouldn't be that bad on shipping about the same as two bottles of inhibitor+ and biocide+ ?


----------



## criskoe

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, that's the idea.
> 
> At the same time, there's copper and "copper." We've been seeing other brands' blocks and fittings that have ferrous particles in them. Or the same tools are used to make both copper and aluminum parts. This means bits of aluminum or ferrous metals are being embedded in the copper. And this isn't theoretical, like if magnets stick, that's a problem.
> 
> So at this point, probably best we stop discussing distilled water. For the hardcore builders, who know what distilled means and can QC your parts, you can use distilled. After all, pure water is the best thermally. For the casual user, we'll make sure to recommend coolants.


Right on. Thanks for clarifying. I understand what you are saying. Makes sense. Those magnets shouldn’t be sticking to that block. Lol. That’s not good for sure. 


And yeah for sure you guys are expanding. It’s clearly happening. I’m seeing Optimus pop up more and more everyday in different forums and places. It’s good to see added competition. So with that said it’s also good to see that you have the newcomer in mind as well not just the hardcore. Everybody has to start somewhere. And watercooling is only becoming more and more popular.

I’m admittedly a newcomer. I’m really enjoying it. One of the biggest downsides I’ve found tho is the lack of clear information and truth but plenty of “experts” who seem to know it all and are constantly saying things that other “experts” contradict. Lmao. It’s almost as bad as politics. Lol.


----------



## mgoldb2

Optimus WC said:


> Many of the delays in the past are due to extensive testing and finding upgrades. We definitely made the mistake of doing preorders (never again) when we were 90% done with the design. But both the GPU and Threadripper have proven to be really tricky projects, especially since we believe we can extract even more performance out of them. Our most recent change to the TR block was the mounting. You'll be able to use the T20 torque driver included with the TR cpu to install the block with the right torque. It's a super clean and exact system we're really excited about.
> 
> As for preorders, if you wish to cancel, you can! We'll be giving 15% off for everyone who preordered, retroactively. We're doing everything we can to ship!


Very neat idea for doing the mounting and nice gesture for those of us that preordered.

For those of us who ordered a Nickel Plated thread-ripper block have you sent out the cold-plate to get plated yet or that something you wont do till you already got the brackets for them? Originally you said the Nickel Plated would be around 2 weeks after the Raw-Copper ones but have the delay in getting the brackets made it so they be ready around same time or there be an additional 2 weeks delay for the Nickel ones after shipping pure copper what I really want to know.


----------



## Optimus WC

criskoe said:


> One of the biggest downsides I’ve found tho is the lack of clear information and truth but plenty of “experts” who seem to know it all and are constantly saying things that other “experts” contradict. Lmao. It’s almost as bad as politics. Lol.


Ain't that the truth! 



mgoldb2 said:


> For those of us who ordered a Nickel Plated thread-ripper block have you sent out the cold-plate to get plated yet or that something you wont do till you already got the brackets for them? Originally you said the Nickel Plated would be around 2 weeks after the Raw-Copper ones but have the delay in getting the brackets made it so they be ready around same time or there be an additional 2 weeks delay for the Nickel ones after shipping pure copper what I really want to know.


For nickel, I'll need to double check with production, we'd really love to have nickel go out at the same time. Covid has made things tricky even for stuff that hasn't shut down -- people stay home, chemicals and whatnot get delayed, etc. I wish I could give a solid answer, but I really don't know at this point 

We will also switch people to acetal TR tops if they want, we don't have pics yet, but it'll be 100% black incl hardware just like our Foundation blocks.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Sooner you figure out no product is perfect the better off you'll be.
And when someone states or recommends it's okay to run distilled water only just call bull**** and move on


----------



## skupples

*giggles*

thanks for the update and partial honesty  

2080ti block's performance won't really matter if you release it once there's a faster card though. 



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Sooner you figure out no product is perfect the better off you'll be.
> And when someone states or recommends it's okay to run distilled water only just call bull**** and move on


for serious. I kept telling them they'd regret that statement. glad they realized it sooner rather than later.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> *giggles*
> 
> *thanks for the update and partial honesty*
> 
> 2080ti block's performance won't really matter if you release it once there's a faster card though.
> 
> for serious. I kept telling them they'd regret that statement. glad they realized it sooner rather than later.


Hi,
lol hope you're referring to someone else with that partial honesty thing 
Otherwise you need another bowl dude


----------



## skupples

I'm thanking Optibro for the update & partial honesty. bowlz won't change my opinions. I respect them for showing a bit of remorse of the amateur marketing & pre-sales decisions.

Looking forward to the gpu block showing up some day, so I can slap the Sigv2 on. figure out if I need to get an IHS kit for the 9700k or just lap, or crank it down FTW. we'll see.


----------



## JustinThyme

Only issue I had was nickel flaking on cold plate, they sent me a new one that will get tried out soon enough. No sand paper required, glass, dremmel or grinder required. Everything as it comes out of the box. Im Happy with the performance. I just started with a 7900X that was always a firecracker. To prove or disprove any thought that the Optimus mounting pressure pushed in too hard on the IHS Im running the magnitude first. They both performed well and I got similar results on unmodified blocks. Just repeating again on different chip with magnitude going first. Those results will be in the magnitude thread where they belong and when Im done with that Ill mount the optimus and give it a go on the chip thats too tough to tame. 4.8 with no AVX on a LCC die is a lot to ask but Im certain it will do it, just how hot is it going to get is the question. Just hit 93C with the magnitude mounted as suggested with screws flush. Ill give that a few runs before I crank it on down like I had to do on the 9940X to get it where both blocks hottest cores were 80C repeatable and each had one pass at 79C. 

I Have no Ill will with Optimus other than you guys need to put someone on PR and keep things rolling. I know its hard with a small start up but when emails direct and through the contact us go unanswered that's in the same league with ASUS. One thing I will give you is at least when you do answer its not a scripted response and thus far Ive been taken care of though it has been with some delay.


----------



## Zurv

Hrmmm.. I think it has been over 4 months waiting for two gpu blocks... I’ll wait a little more.. (Which I’ll throw away in a few months when new cards come out.. )
Not a cheap hobby.


----------



## skupples

throw away? 

should be able to tack on at least half of it to resale value of GPU.


----------



## Zurv

When I sell the cards I put the original cooling back on. These blocks are replacing blocks I already have on my titans. (Once I switch, those old blocks will be in the trash too... along with the sexy koolance i400 blocks I just replaced. )

Yes, it all does seem wasteful. 
Sometime jpm will take my old stuff and give them a good home.


----------



## JustinThyme

Zurv said:


> Hrmmm.. I think it has been over 4 months waiting for two gpu blocks... I’ll wait a little more.. (Which I’ll throw away in a few months when new cards come out.. )
> Not a cheap hobby.


I learned my lesson on preorders long ago. If they don’t have it available to ship I don’t do preorders or back orders. Then you just get stuck waiting forever and have to go through a hassle to get your money back. Right now I’m in the market for a 10980XE at retail, not that jack wagon selling them on NewEgg for $2999. Plenty of the “factory direct ship but also elevated prices of $1200+. Uh no! I’ll pay MSRP. Eventually they will either become available or they won’t and I’ll stick with what I have and to from there, probably waiting a year or two to see what comes down the pipeline. In a year things are going to change horrendously on both sides and it’s gonna cost me another MOBO and CPU and blocks......there goes several thousand......


----------



## JustinThyme

Zurv said:


> When I sell the cards I put the original cooling back on. These blocks are replacing blocks I already have on my titans. (Once I switch, those old blocks will be in the trash too... along with the sexy koolance i400 blocks I just replaced. )
> 
> Yes, it all does seem wasteful.
> Sometime jpm will take my old stuff and give them a good home.


You can get on PPCs discord channel and at least get some $$ out of them. A lot of folks looking for used stuff a generation or two old. Often they want you to give it to them in which case I box it up and find a new home to the not so fortunate. Last care package ended up in Brazil. A few older 8800GTS with blocks and an ek evo. Just had him pay me for shipping and asked him to pay it forward when he has the ability to do so. One of his buddies ended up with his old parts which were OLD but they both were happy and the parts are no longer collecting dust on a shelf.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I learned my lesson on preorders long ago. If they don’t have it available to ship I don’t do preorders or back orders. Then you just get stuck waiting forever and have to go through a hassle to get your money back. Right now I’m in the market for a 10980XE at retail, not that jack wagon selling them on NewEgg for $2999. Plenty of the “factory direct ship but also elevated prices of $1200+. Uh no! I’ll pay MSRP. Eventually they will either become available or they won’t and I’ll stick with what I have and to from there, probably waiting a year or two to see what comes down the pipeline. In a year things are going to change horrendously on both sides and it’s gonna cost me another MOBO and CPU and blocks......there goes several thousand......


Very true. The virus may make preorders essential for certain items like PS5 i feel. I generally pre-order my GPU's from Nvidia Direct as long as you get it within couple minutes of them opening first batch of orders. My experience has been you do endup getting it in, its either the first or second batch. Did the same with the 3900X launch, got it from AMD rather than the local computer store. But it's quite different in Canada, where our parts availability at launch is minimal (we share the same allocation as the US). So that's why Newegg.ca is one of first to get them but you have to use the app to track it and check out fast. I don't have to put my name in the local memory express and wait for them to get it either.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme, Are you preparing for the launch of AMD 5nm(AM5)/Intel 7nm also? Yeah, that is going to involve us throwing out Mobo, CPU, Ram and possibly NVME drives. That's why i wary of spending too much on rigs, stuff with long term usage like watercooling stuff no issues. GPU well I want it for 4k120 gaming on my 4K TV.


----------



## Section31

Delete Message


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Im not going to bother really xD if you dont get it never will the dime store p3 its doing the same thing your ups is doing lol. But, i wasnt using that to show cooling watts out of the socket 😛 so i have to rely from the mobo info with apps like hwinfo for example that throw some approximate on what the cpu is pulling out of the "2066 pin (socket)" throwing that as heat whats what the cpu block is actually COOLING. The wall/ups measure its not the one to show and thats that. You can ask jpmboy if you want.
> 
> All my readings shown here are "actual heat" the cpu block its handling not what im pulling from the wall.
> 
> PD: your ups logs are utterly useless in another words
> 
> 
> 
> Dude, all I can say is get it together before you come at me with such nonsense. I provided the UPS logs for one purpose and one purpose only....your cry baby pull from the wall posts and requests. No one else wanted it nor displayed it and I just happened to have it and itâ€™️s accurate to 0.005%, something your dime store adapter cannot do. Bottom line is we are right back where we started. Your pull from the socket theory proves nothing and You CANT measure what you are pulling at the CPU socket and yet you still donâ€™️t get it. Power draw in watts and cooling in watts are not even the same calculation. Go get an education in the subject matter before you come back at me with it. I live for this. Itâ€™️s what I do for a living on a scale you canâ€™️t even imagine. Personal PCs are a childâ€™️s toys in comparison. In a single phrase...â€ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂCheck Yourself!â€ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂ
Click to expand...

All my posts actually were actually posting socket draw since day 1.. . just posted once with the p3 bcuz somebody "you" was screaming that his 14 core cpu was sucking more watts than a 7980xe lol i mean just LOL... Do i have to remember you i have the highest power draw "sustained load" recorded in this very topic with this block for that matters?

Then, lets not talk about the whole "my system pull this amount of watts all together or the my 2x2080tis > 
vs an open bench spare 580 gpu" even trash called you off on that lol.

Yes yes yes keep on xD..


Here we go again with the same crap "im this, im that" BUT... cant even find a ((simple reading)) socket draw on x299 instead lol..

If you said so ok, that just prove what i said all along xD


----------



## Avacado

This is when you know a thread has run it's course. When we are no longer talking about the intended subject material and start injecting other random conversations.


----------



## Section31

Avacado said:


> This is when you know a thread has run it's course. When we are no longer talking about the intended subject material and start injecting other random conversations.


It's been that case for couple months now actually. Can't really do much when new products aren't out/delayed for long time. We ran out of stuff to discuss till there GPU blocks and Threadripper blocks do come out. It's just going to be slow year watercooling wise, right now who knows when not only Optimus but the Heatkiller/Aquacomputer newly launched/unannounced products come out. Not only that but shipping has become an logistics nightmare, there's no way an individual can order from outside there own country without paying an arm and a leg for anything. I'm hoping this gets under control by time I do my self-enclosed external radiator project. 

I just got my order from Aquacomputer for an Octo and flow sensor. I forgot to order an cable. Guess what, DHL isn't delivering to my country temporary and I'm stuck with UPS and 100euro shipping (hell not going to do that). I ended up having to go through PPCS. I'm in Canada so my selection is ultra limited and mostly have to order from Europe and USA.


----------



## Avacado

Section31 said:


> It's been that case for couple months now actually. Can't really do much when new products aren't out/delayed for long time. We ran out of stuff to discuss till there GPU blocks and Threadripper blocks do come out. It's just going to be slow year watercooling wise, right now who knows when not only Optimus but the Heatkiller/Aquacomputer newly launched/unannounced products come out. Not only that but shipping has become an logistics nightmare, there's no way an individual can order from outside there own country without paying an arm and a leg for anything. I'm hoping this gets under control by time I do my self-enclosed external radiator project.
> 
> I just got my order from Aquacomputer for an Octo and flow sensor. I forgot to order an cable. Guess what, DHL isn't delivering to my country temporary and I'm stuck with UPS and 100euro shipping (hell not going to do that). I ended up having to go through PPCS. I'm in Canada so my selection is ultra limited and mostly have to order from Europe and USA.


That sucks bro, I know Optimus floated A LOT of promises to you guys on pre-orders.


----------



## Section31

Avacado said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's been that case for couple months now actually. Can't really do much when new products aren't out/delayed for long time. We ran out of stuff to discuss till there GPU blocks and Threadripper blocks do come out. It's just going to be slow year watercooling wise, right now who knows when not only Optimus but the Heatkiller/Aquacomputer newly launched/unannounced products come out. Not only that but shipping has become an logistics nightmare, there's no way an individual can order from outside there own country without paying an arm and a leg for anything. I'm hoping this gets under control by time I do my self-enclosed external radiator project.
> 
> I just got my order from Aquacomputer for an Octo and flow sensor. I forgot to order an cable. Guess what, DHL isn't delivering to my country temporary and I'm stuck with UPS and 100euro shipping (hell not going to do that). I ended up having to go through PPCS. I'm in Canada so my selection is ultra limited and mostly have to order from Europe and USA.
> 
> 
> 
> That sucks bro, I know Optimus floated A LOT of promises to you guys on pre-orders.
Click to expand...


Generally most of us here have more than one rig here so if it takes longer, so be it. You got to be patient in these times.

Well this forum also has lot of unannounced products, look at heatkiller thead. X570 PCH blocks, new line of radiators, universal vrm blocks. Some items have gone completely silent and or stopped in r&d.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> All my posts actually were actually posting socket draw since day 1.. . just posted once with the p3 bcuz somebody "you" was screaming that his 14 core cpu was sucking more watts than a 7980xe lol i mean just LOL... Do i have to remember you i have the highest power draw "sustained load" recorded in this very topic with this block for that matters?
> 
> Then, lets not talk about the whole "my system pull this amount of watts all together or the my 2x2080tis >
> vs an open bench spare 580 gpu" even trash called you off on that lol.
> 
> Yes yes yes keep on xD..
> 
> 
> Here we go again with the same crap "im this, im that" BUT... cant even find a ((simple reading)) socket draw on x299 instead lol..
> 
> If you said so ok, that just prove what i said all along xD


You should go to Mirror before you post this BS. Show me anyone with a current draw at the socket? I’ll not be waiting as we will all be dead. 

Again dude, check yourself. You aren’t even in the same planet let alone the same city when it comes to knowing jack Schitt about power, current draw and themals. The fact that you think current dictates thermals tells me everything i need to know and that’s that you know nothing and can’t make up your own life with the other person that’s bouncing around in that skull. One minute it’s current at the socket with a dime store jig and I give you precise information at the same point with a $2500 UPS and you go off on a tangent about hot that’s not at the socket. Please do let me and the rest of the world know when you have figured out how to get a CT or LEM in that itty bitty 2066 pins. 

Thanks for the nightly laugh. I just hope that your occupation isn’t much more critical than rubbage collection. 

All your tests and graphs have shown precisely NOTHING!!


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> It's been that case for couple months now actually. Can't really do much when new products aren't out/delayed for long time. We ran out of stuff to discuss till there GPU blocks and Threadripper blocks do come out. It's just going to be slow year watercooling wise, right now who knows when not only Optimus but the Heatkiller/Aquacomputer newly launched/unannounced products come out. Not only that but shipping has become an logistics nightmare, there's no way an individual can order from outside there own country without paying an arm and a leg for anything. I'm hoping this gets under control by time I do my self-enclosed external radiator project.
> 
> I just got my order from Aquacomputer for an Octo and flow sensor. I forgot to order an cable. Guess what, DHL isn't delivering to my country temporary and I'm stuck with UPS and 100euro shipping (hell not going to do that). I ended up having to go through PPCS. I'm in Canada so my selection is ultra limited and mostly have to order from Europe and USA.


Good point. Don’t know what DHLs problem is. Where I live this circus’s is horrendous. We have over 30K faces and 4000 deaths just in this state! Only one worse it NY.


----------



## JustinThyme

Avacado said:


> This is when you know a thread has run it's course. When we are no longer talking about the intended subject material and start injecting other random conversations.


Unfortunately you hit that right. It’s mostly because the supply has gone stagnant and extremely misleading disinformation.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's been that case for couple months now actually. Can't really do much when new products aren't out/delayed for long time. We ran out of stuff to discuss till there GPU blocks and Threadripper blocks do come out. It's just going to be slow year watercooling wise, right now who knows when not only Optimus but the Heatkiller/Aquacomputer newly launched/unannounced products come out. Not only that but shipping has become an logistics nightmare, there's no way an individual can order from outside there own country without paying an arm and a leg for anything. I'm hoping this gets under control by time I do my self-enclosed external radiator project.
> 
> I just got my order from Aquacomputer for an Octo and flow sensor. I forgot to order an cable. Guess what, DHL isn't delivering to my country temporary and I'm stuck with UPS and 100euro shipping (hell not going to do that). I ended up having to go through PPCS. I'm in Canada so my selection is ultra limited and mostly have to order from Europe and USA.
> 
> 
> 
> Good point. Donâ€™️t know what DHLs problem is. Where I live this circusâ€™️s is horrendous. We have over 30K faces and 4000 deaths just in this state! Only one worse it NY.
Click to expand...

Right now, the delay favours saving up for intel 7nm/amd 5nm. Since we know DDR5 will be standard by then and probably other things will come out, there is no upgrades path for AM4 (last upgrade is ryzen 4000) and Intel own chipsets. Only exceptions are the new GPU’s coming out. All indications are Intel 7nm and TSMC 5nm fabs are still running and suffering no delays.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Right now, the delay favours saving up for intel 7nm/amd 5nm. Since we know DDR5 will be standard by then and probably other things will come out, there is no upgrades path for AM4 (last upgrade is ryzen 4000) and Intel own chipsets. Only exceptions are the new GPU’s coming out. All indications are Intel 7nm and TSMC 5nm fabs are still running and suffering no delays.


Nvidia dabbled in chipsets for a short time. Had a strange ASUS board way back when (still have it in the basement) that has an NVidia chipset running 2 AMD dual core FX chips. Chipset worked fine although every thins was water cooled including the north and south bridge. Biggest PITA with that board is it require ECC ram which speeds are limited and not at all cheap!!

It was a good build for its short time as top dog as two dual core was the only way to have quad. Then 6 months later intel introduced the first quad core.


----------



## skupples

gotta say Jason Schiit next time. he's the one everyone's always reee'ing about lying about outsourcing, etc.

i stopped reading this particular debate when dude said your UPS metrics meant nothing.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> gotta say Jason Schiit next time. he's the one everyone's always reee'ing about lying about outsourcing, etc.
> 
> i stopped reading this particular debate when dude said your UPS metrics meant nothing.


Skrupples, There’s lot of interesting people on this forum. Bound to see an conspiracy angled post here time to time.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
OCD on OCN


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Right now, the delay favours saving up for intel 7nm/amd 5nm. Since we know DDR5 will be standard by then and probably other things will come out, there is no upgrades path for AM4 (last upgrade is ryzen 4000) and Intel own chipsets. Only exceptions are the new GPUâ€™️s coming out. All indications are Intel 7nm and TSMC 5nm fabs are still running and suffering no delays.
> 
> 
> 
> Nvidia dabbled in chipsets for a short time. Had a strange ASUS board way back when (still have it in the basement) that has an NVidia chipset running 2 AMD dual core FX chips. Chipset worked fine although every thins was water cooled including the north and south bridge. Biggest PITA with that board is it require ECC ram which speeds are limited and not at all cheap!!
> 
> It was a good build for its short time as top dog as two dual core was the only way to have quad. Then 6 months later intel introduced the first quad core.
Click to expand...

I remember that actually. I was looking at that around time i was building my i7-920 pc. I am definitely looking forward to what jim keller intel chip is like and of course amd 5nm. Though there seems to be many other hurdles preventing 7nm and 5nm hitting 5ghz.


----------



## pmachado

Just thought I'd post a few pictures of my AMD Foundation block that I painted white for my upcoming build. Love this block especially now in white!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nice thinking outside the box :thumb:


----------



## skupples

sidewinder had a ton of white bp fittings @ half off in their clearance sale, might be a bit late now, but heads up!


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> sidewinder had a ton of white bp fittings @ half off in their clearance sale, might be a bit late now, but heads up!


How do you they find this stuff. Last i checked they had pretty much nothing of value left.


----------



## skupples

someone else mentioned it. 2-3 weeks ago now. as much as I'd love to say I used my deal detecting Jewdar.

seems like they keep updating the going out of business clearance sale stuff though.

either A.) they're still receiving inventory
or B.) they keep finding boxes of stuff while cleaning up, & thus keep updating the clearance rack.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
They have a ton of 3/8-5/8" pure brass straight barb compression fittings 6 bucks a pop.


----------



## skupples

i tried telling that penny pincher guy that too.


----------



## Avacado

Indeed, just snagged this gem.


----------



## pmachado

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nice thinking outside the box :thumb:


Thanks!



skupples said:


> sidewinder had a ton of white bp fittings @ half off in their clearance sale, might be a bit late now, but heads up!


I did see that before. I already got my white fittings but thanks for the heads up.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> i tried telling that penny pincher guy that too.


Thanks told my friend and he got his fittings he needed rather than go through aliexpress. Picked up an drain valve too.


----------



## CAL V

Just placed an order for a copper foundation AMD block from PPCs, can't wait for it to arrive


----------



## pmachado

CAL V said:


> Just placed an order for a copper foundation AMD block from PPCs, can't wait for it to arrive


Awesome! You will love it


----------



## JustinThyme

Running on 7900X ATM and it’s not looking good at all. I’ll give it the same go through as I don’t think either block is suited for the 7900X

Failed first run, reboot
Failed round two reboot. 

All after heat up cool down loosen and wiggle
Of kryonaut. Just backed of your 4.7 to
See what we get. 

I don’t think it’s the block as much as is
Is the LCC die.

OK got to run with an AVX offset of 1

mag vs sig
Ill leave it to settle down and cool off and run tomorrow night and see what I get.
Mag beat Sig by substantial margin like 8C but its the die for sure as was running 14 cores 4.8 at 80C on both
Difference at this pint is the sig wont complete a run at 4.8.


----------



## pmachado

Quick question that maybe @Optimus WC could answer. I want to flip my AMD Foundation block around so the inlet is at the top rather than bottom. I know I would have to flip the block cover around but do I also have to flip the cold plate? I thought I read a post somewhere in this thread that to maximize the performance it also has to be flipped. Can't seem to find that post now. 

Any input is appreciated!


----------



## ThrashZone

pmachado said:


> Quick question that maybe @Optimus WC could answer. I want to flip my AMD Foundation block around so the inlet is at the top rather than bottom. I know I would have to flip the block cover around but do I also have to flip the cold plate? I thought I read a post somewhere in this thread that to maximize the performance it also has to be flipped. Can't seem to find that post now.
> 
> Any input is appreciated!


Hi,
As long as you keep the same basic water flow on the cooling fins you're really just rotating the block and keeping the mounting bracket the same with name on bottom.


----------



## pmachado

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> As long as you keep the same basic water flow on the cooling fins you're really just rotating the block and keeping the mounting bracket the same with name on bottom.


Thanks Thrash. So just to be clear I don't have to flip anything else except the block cover?


----------



## broodro0ster

pmachado said:


> Thanks Thrash. So just to be clear I don't have to flip anything else except the block cover?


Why not just rotate the whole block? No need to disassemble anything.


----------



## pmachado

broodro0ster said:


> pmachado said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Thrash. So just to be clear I don't have to flip anything else except the block cover?
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just rotate the whole block? No need to disassemble anything.
Click to expand...

It has the Optimus name at the bottom that would then be upside down.


----------



## ThrashZone

pmachado said:


> Thanks Thrash. So just to be clear I don't have to flip anything else except the block cover?


Hi,
Yeah just rotate the frame it's separate piece and mount it with name at the bottom and you're done ports are swapped 
Love the foundation 3 piece makes it possible to do this.


----------



## broodro0ster

pmachado said:


> It has the Optimus name at the bottom that would then be upside down.


Ok, in that case you can only rotate the top since the base should be symetrical. But always rotate in steps of 180° or you will block your flow.


----------



## D-EJ915

pmachado said:


> Quick question that maybe @Optimus WC could answer. I want to flip my AMD Foundation block around so the inlet is at the top rather than bottom. I know I would have to flip the block cover around but do I also have to flip the cold plate? I thought I read a post somewhere in this thread that to maximize the performance it also has to be flipped. Can't seem to find that post now.
> 
> Any input is appreciated!


Only issue would be with any air bubbles would be harder to get out but besides that it should perform the same.


----------



## Optimus WC

Yup, the Foundation blocks are designed so the block top and plate are able to be rotated in any direction. Just make sure to keep the top and fins lined up correctly


----------



## Drivinfast247

@Optimus WC With all the stuff going on in this thread and also the world right now, if I ordered a Foundation CPU Block - AMD - Acrylic + Black Aluminum / Pro-XE Nickel when would I receive it?


----------



## pmachado

ThrashZone said:


> pmachado said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Thrash. So just to be clear I don't have to flip anything else except the block cover?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Yeah just rotate the frame it's separate piece and mount it with name at the bottom and you're done ports are swapped /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> Love the foundation 3 piece makes it possible to do this.
Click to expand...




Optimus WC said:


> Yup, the Foundation blocks are designed so the block top and plate are able to be rotated in any direction. Just make sure to keep the top and fins lined up correctly /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


Thanks for all the replies. Will flip top plate around 180 degrees.


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, the Foundation blocks are designed so the block top and plate are able to be rotated in any direction. Just make sure to keep the top and fins lined up correctly


Foundation yes, top of the line Sig V2 no. You get upside down due to the design. Would have been better shipped with a badge where one could put it where they want or not at all instead of having the only choice on intel of in on the left or upside down branding to have it on the right. I don’t get why inputs are designed to be in the left when nearly all set ups the pump is on the right.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Most loops I've seen loop goes clockwise hitting gpu first then cpu not counter clockwise so sigV2 ports should be normal position inlet left/ outlet right.


----------



## Avacado

JustinThyme said:


> Foundation yes, top of the line Sig V2 no. You get upside down due to the design. Would have been better shipped with a badge where one could put it where they want or not at all instead of having the only choice on intel of in on the left or upside down branding to have it on the right. I don’t get why inputs are designed to be in the left when nearly all set ups the pump is on the right.


Well said.


----------



## ppcli

I decided to try there AM4 block when I switched mobo’s , got it a few weeks ago. I’m really disappointed in it , I’ve messaged them over a week and a half of go and nothing. It’s running 10C higher then the Heatkiller on the desk top and over 25C underload . I’ve made sure the intake is the centre port and the return is at the top. I took it apart made sure it was clean. I did notice that the inside intake port inside isn’t smooth on the plex like the HK is . I had huge success with the Ek mono block on my Hero with the 3950x and was hoping that this block with the copper plate would work great with the gigabyte extreme and the 3950x. But with no answer back from them I broke down and order the new EK block.


----------



## skupples

boys, we found someone that had monoblock success! they do exist!


----------



## Shawnb99

Where's my duel pump/res? Or just dual pump with the casing. That or offer me a pump/res combo with the inlet and outlet are on opposite sides so I can easily run multiple serial.


----------



## Mxj1

Drivinfast247 said:


> [MENTION=625918]...With all the stuff going on in this thread and also the world right now, if I ordered a Foundation CPU Block - AMD - Acrylic + Black Aluminum / Pro-XE Nickel when would I receive it?


I ordered mine in early March and it took 18 days from order to delivery. Be prepared to wait, but YMMV.


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> boys, we found someone that had monoblock success! they do exist!



Where, Antarctica?


Ive been asking for numbers on the RVIEE monoblock from EK but they are non existent. Id give up a few C on the core to get rid of the heatsink.

Meanwhile finally the Optimus Sig V2 finally made a 30 minute run on Classroom Render with 0 AVX offset on 7900X. Behind Magnitude by 3C. Been failing for 3 days never getting to the 30 minute mark. Finally squeaked one out today and its easy to see why on core 6. Same hot core as Ive always had on this chip no matter what block has been on it including a EK EVO and EK monoblock for the RVIE. Never ran it at 4.8 no AVX on anything. Like I said I dont blame either block manufacurter, this is a known hot chip with a LCC die.

Optimus Sig V2 Vs Magnitude 5C difference with Magnitude coming out ahead. The entire premise of this was to try the EK block first to see if it makes a difference on IHS curvature if the Optimus block was mounted previously. Next will be putting the EK back on and seeing if the numbers for that change after the Sig V2 was mounted and cranked finger tight with springless mounting kit.

Difference is I killed the AIDA 64 in the background on the SIG V2 to see if that helped. First run at 4.8 that finished.


----------



## skupples

post #2936 of 2940 this guy right here had success with it on a big boy chip! 

he also tells a story the opposite of what we're seeing, so who knows. might genuinely need help, or might be weak disinformation agent/self operating fangirl.


----------



## Section31

Drivinfast247 said:


> @Optimus WC With all the stuff going on in this thread and also the world right now, if I ordered a Foundation CPU Block - AMD - Acrylic + Black Aluminum / Pro-XE Nickel when would I receive it?


Its been almost an month for me and i have to deal with shipping it to canada. Fortunate, i don’t need it in hurry but i do hope they send soon.


----------



## Section31

ppcli said:


> I decided to try there AM4 block when I switched mobo’s , got it a few weeks ago. I’m really disappointed in it , I’ve messaged them over a week and a half of go and nothing. It’s running 10C higher then the Heatkiller on the desk top and over 25C underload . I’ve made sure the intake is the centre port and the return is at the top. I took it apart made sure it was clean. I did notice that the inside intake port inside isn’t smooth on the plex like the HK is . I had huge success with the Ek mono block on my Hero with the 3950x and was hoping that this block with the copper plate would work great with the gigabyte extreme and the 3950x. But with no answer back from them I broke down and order the new EK block.


I had same issues at first but after talking with them and redoing the setup, it worked fine again. Ultimately not sure what caused it (was some kind of human error). First thought was bios related but tried it again and no issues.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, the Foundation blocks are designed so the block top and plate are able to be rotated in any direction. Just make sure to keep the top and fins lined up correctly /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


More of an question, any updates on lead time to get products out. I am patient just would appreciate an update. It’s been an month and i ordered in late mar.

So far have gotten four of your blocks for am4 foundation (two for myself and two for my friends).


----------



## Section31

Once i get my mo-ra 3 420lt up (who knows when it arrives), i will do more testing. Overkill setup but lets how it performs


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Everyone knows mono blocks only look cool got a couple hanging on my wall of shame 

Even the new ones for omega/ encore are the same old water jet design and rotation on 2066 as older ones so I'd imagine they too only look cool.

amd foundations have already had some good reviews so no telling what's up with the new dude but have fun with that overpriced ek block I say :thumb:

I love my Intel foundation


----------



## skupples

yep, I'm glad the concept came out AFTER I had already spent the money for my pinnacle of X79 build.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I even cut a mono block into my x99 sabertooth plastic shield lol mono block was for a x99 prime deluxe 
That was fun and all but still a waste of time and money seeing cooling is a lot worse than a cpu and vrm block which is on now.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I even cut a mono block into my x99 sabertooth plastic shield lol mono block was for a x99 prime deluxe
> That was fun and all but still a waste of time and money seeing cooling is a lot worse than a cpu and vrm block which is on now.


I had one of those monoblocks for x299. It didn’t last longer than 3 months before i replaced it with an cpu and vrm block lol. Waste of an adventure. i should have used the swiftech heirloom cpu block (iron man colors) than switch to it.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep not for overclockers but probably fine for default clocks and show.
I'd never consider another mono block I'd make my own vrm water block way before that


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> All my posts actually were actually posting socket draw since day 1.. . just posted once with the p3 bcuz somebody "you" was screaming that his 14 core cpu was sucking more watts than a 7980xe lol i mean just LOL... Do i have to remember you i have the highest power draw "sustained load" recorded in this very topic with this block for that matters?
> 
> Then, lets not talk about the whole "my system pull this amount of watts all together or the my 2x2080tis >
> vs an open bench spare 580 gpu" even trash called you off on that lol.
> 
> Yes yes yes keep on xD..
> 
> 
> Here we go again with the same crap "im this, im that" BUT... cant even find a ((simple reading)) socket draw on x299 instead lol..
> 
> If you said so ok, that just prove what i said all along xD
> 
> 
> 
> You should go to Mirror before you post this BS. Show me anyone with a current draw at the socket? Iâ€™️ll not be waiting as we will all be dead.
> 
> Again dude, check yourself. You arenâ€™️t even in the same planet let alone the same city when it comes to knowing jack Schitt about power, current draw and themals. The fact that you think current dictates thermals tells me everything i need to know and thatâ€™️s that you know nothing and canâ€™️t make up your own life with the other person thatâ€™️s bouncing around in that skull. One minute itâ€™️s current at the socket with a dime store jig and I give you precise information at the same point with a $2500 UPS and you go off on a tangent about hot thatâ€™️s not at the socket. Please do let me and the rest of the world know when you have figured out how to get a CT or LEM in that itty bitty 2066 pins.
> 
> Thanks for the nightly laugh. I just hope that your occupation isnâ€™️t much more critical than rubbage collection.
> 
> All your tests and graphs have shown precisely NOTHING!!
Click to expand...

"Im this im that? "

You still stuck on that p3 dont you? But mention ups draws what serves no purpose here? Dont take it from me look at jpmboy posts and see for yourself what itself he does shows to measure real heat dissipation out of the chips. Dont take from me because it looks like it offends you lol..

He have it here and also on the 10th series topic cpu as well.. We had a couple pages explaining about that. Because some people didnt know it. But, you already know this dont you bcuz "im this and that " (engineer) " god knows from what lol.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Everyone knows mono blocks only look cool got a couple hanging on my wall of shame
> 
> Even the new ones for omega/ encore are the same old water jet design and rotation on 2066 as older ones so I'd imagine they too only look cool.
> 
> amd foundations have already had some good reviews so no telling what's up with the new dude but have fun with that overpriced ek block I say /forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif
> 
> I love my Intel foundation /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


 you aint lying lol, monoblocks are garbage. Its better block the vrms apart specially vrms that are crispy hot. My latest mono block was an ek was using it on the asus z370-G it was okish, cpu temps were lacking like 10c+ behind vs a cpu block that board needed serious vrm cooling for a 8700k i was pushing hard. Got rid of it and got the Asus 390-I which dont need the monoblock for the 8700K..

That modified vrm block from the Rampage IV black is doing wonders on my vrms.. The block itself is nothing fancy either vs other designs flat copper channel from one end to the other. Just tapped 2 new holes got a 2mm thick pad for the vrms and used 1mm on the chokes and walla.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah modifications are dope 
Can't be all that hard to concoct a vrm water block for encore or omega/... 

Find the longest straight universal vrm.. block add a longer copper more appropriate sized cold plate for it. done.
You don't need water over the entire vrm area just a cold plate.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> "Im this im that? "
> 
> You still stuck on that p3 dont you? But mention ups draws what serves no purpose here? Dont take it from me look at jpmboy posts and see for yourself what itself he does shows to measure real heat dissipation out of the chips. Dont take from me because it looks like it offends you lol..
> 
> He have it here and also on the 10th series topic cpu as well.. We had a couple pages explaining about that. Because some people didnt know it. But, you already know this dont you bcuz "im this and that " (engineer) " god knows from what lol.


Dude, you took it there. I only showed my UPS metrics because you insisted it was related showing your dime store garbage pull from the power outlet that’s as accurate as using a yard stick to measure MM. You have single sided vision like a horse with blinders. Otherwise I’d have not bothered. Bottom line is there is no way to tell current draw at the socket and even if you could electrical watts and heat watts are two totally different critters. You have much to learn wee hopper. You can start with a basic electricity at any tech school. 

More current will mean more heat but it’s not as simple as that. One can have less current and more heat and vice versa. I’m not going to try and explain advanced principles to a general math student. You believe what you want, I’ll practice what I know. Good luck with your endeavors and please stop trolling. Post what you like, you have been bestowed with the honor to be the first to make it to my blocked list.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Everyone knows mono blocks only look cool got a couple hanging on my wall of shame
> 
> Even the new ones for omega/ encore are the same old water jet design and rotation on 2066 as older ones so I'd imagine they too only look cool.
> 
> amd foundations have already had some good reviews so no telling what's up with the new dude but have fun with that overpriced ek block I say :thumb:
> 
> I love my Intel foundation


I’m with you there on my monoblock experience. One can be hopeful that one day someone will get it right, I have 3 of them as paperweight and wall of shame art. problem is they made a single VRM cooler for the Dominus but not for the RVIEE or Optimus. I know it was night and day on my RVIE between a monoblock and two separate blocks by a long shot on both CPU and VRMs. I’d have liked to seen like they did on the old 11xx formula boards. That actually worked well passively and very well with liquid flowing through it. If I was worth a crap at programming CNC machines and had a heap of raw copper to work with I’d set out to make my own. Might still yet grab some measurements and see what I can or can’t do making a crude VRM cooler. Doesn’t take much more than good contact with liquid flow. I’ve asked several times about the RVIEE monoblock numbers through EK and a couple of distributors and no replies. Only reviews shows a mimic of the marketing page. No tests no zip. I’d sacrifice a a few C but not the horrendously horrible results from the RVIE monoblock.

I was curious because the flow pattern and build looks different that the old ones and marketing says new cooling engine but where are some numbers? Even manufacturers test numbers? These do look quite a bit different, not that they work any better. The cold plate one the older model contact was round and rough where the new one is square and shiny.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Good example of cold plate on vrm's extend way past the water channel 
You could use any flat bottom universal vrm block and just screw on a new copper cold plate to it.

A x299 prime deluxe vrm block would do fine since it flat bottom and plenty of nickle or copper ones around at watercool or ek even.


----------



## skupples

i thought their issue was mounting, not flow pattern.

symmetry always wins for me though. that's for damn sure. 

I figure they'll eventually get it right. they're definitely the more a e s t h e t i c choice, which has clearly been their main focus the last few years.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Still the same horizontal jet opposite of the mag flow or optimus for that matter which hits the chip better so all I see is a noose with a little different cover.
Looks have always been good problem is always do you want to look cool or be cool at higher clocks ?
Personally I want to be cooler like Fonzie :thumb:


----------



## skupples

yeah, well you can sit on it n spin. 

looks trump all. everywhere, in all things.

ask my obscenely dumb, obscenely attractive 5'1" blond/blue ex that's now unhappily married to a yacht owning multimillionaire. at least she got away from the kambucha brewer in DEA Witness protection.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah problem is that wears off after a month or two and you end up switching back and hanging a 150-200.00 mono block on the wall of shame lol :doh:


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah modifications are dope
> Can't be all that hard to concoct a vrm water block for encore or omega/...
> 
> Find the longest straight universal vrm.. block add a longer copper more appropriate sized cold plate for it. done.
> You don't need water over the entire vrm area just a cold plate.


 actually wonder about the mount on the dominus block. It’s too long and would run into the power connectors but if the mounts can be made to work a band saw and a brazing torch can remedy that. Not like I’ve not done it before. Made many a CPU block before there was a market for them. No microfins but we used to drill holes in the cold plate to create turbulence. While they are no match for what’s out today they still beat any air cooling. Raidiators were heater cores yanked out of junkyard cars and trucks. Was forums that’s now dead. Extreme Overclockers I think where the race was on to get to 1GHz on a dual core CPU. A lot has changed since then.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Doable mount is the easy part 
Just need holes and a spacer to keep it off the vrm's a little.


----------



## Shawnb99

For the monoblock instead of trying to stick to the name and keeping it one block, make it 2 blocks connected by hard line. Plus the look so big and ugly as one whole block. Routing the tubing on my old Formula board from the VRM block to the CPU was a PIA so that's really the only advantage a monoblock has. Hardline dual block design would work nicely and look better


----------



## skupples

i feel like that's how the south bridge worked on my X79 RIVEBE lemme see... 

nvm, i'm remembering monoblock 1.0, which did that. All 3 should do it. that's the final form.

I <3 that board. It's still alive & kicking to this day, over in FLL. I'm glad I didn't wait for the then uber-hyped monoblock. n got all three separate pieces.

HOWEVER, looking back on it. It would be nice if all three mated without fittings. I assume the connection is like a d-plug or sli fitting?


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> For the monoblock instead of trying to stick to the name and keeping it one block, make it 2 blocks connected by hard line. Plus the look so big and ugly as one whole block. Routing the tubing on my old Formula board from the VRM block to the CPU was a PIA so that's really the only advantage a monoblock has. Hardline dual block design would work nicely and look better


Yeah pretty much everyone is of the same opinion. I’ve not had good luck with mono blocks but very good results with separate blocks. Problem is finding one to fit RVIEE and getting a passive heat sink for the aquantia 10G chip.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Bittech guy about optimus xD


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah modifications are dope /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> Can't be all that hard to concoct a vrm water block for encore or omega/...
> 
> Find the longest straight universal vrm.. block add a longer copper more appropriate sized cold plate for it. done.
> You don't need water over the entire vrm area just a cold plate.


The problem is the vrm channel area in some mobos are to thin a regular mosfet/vrm block wont do the chinese one i got was a no go it was to wide to fit between the channel and chokes also my board has little capacitors that are lil bit taller than the vrms on top of the vrms so you need to play with that as well.. The 2mm thermal pad was for mostly to cover that area and better contact on the vrms so it doesnt contact the metal on the block.

As you increase thickness on the plate heat dissipation is less too. I mean its not that much heat perse, But still...


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> The problem is the vrm channel area in some mobos are to thin a regular mosfet/vrm block wont do the chinese one i got was a no go it was to wide to fit between the channel and chokes also my board has little capacitors that are lil bit taller than the vrms on top of the vrms so you need to play with that as well.. The 2mm thermal pad was for mostly to cover that area and better contact on the vrms so it doesnt contact the metal on the block.
> 
> As you increase thickness on the plate heat dissipation is less too. I mean its not that much heat perse, But still...


Hi,
Yeah apex and rampage in general have really weird vrm layout 
Omega/ encore are totally different in that respect and what I was originally referring too since a mono block is a joke blowing that much for nothing but looks.

3/16" thick cold plate about as thin as I would go for a cold plate out of copper it gets too bendy thinner otherwise you'd have to use some other metal stainless/....

Bittech ? lol yeah deja vu right 

Techpowerup the way they did the testing going by averages and didn't even show the high/ low numbers they used is a sad joke coming up with ...0.05-0.10 as a difference really takes the cake :doh:

Everything being equal foundation clearly kicked the crap out of ek performance wise and price wise if anyone doesn't believe me buy one and see for yourself it's only 120.us where as cheapest mag is 205.us for a nasty looking acetal lol optimus acetal 110.us I believe that point never came up at bittech 
It's hard to get past for many others it freaking ends all close comparisons temp wise seeing cost is stupid on ek's side :thumb:


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Bittech ? lol yeah deja vu right
> 
> Techpowerup the way they did the testing going by averages and didn't even show the high/ low numbers they used is a sad joke coming up with ...0.05-0.10 as a difference really takes the cake :doh:
> 
> Everything being equal foundation clearly kicked the crap out of ek performance wise and price wise if anyone doesn't believe me buy one and see for yourself it's only 120.us where as cheapest mag is 205.us for a nasty looking acetal lol optimus acetal 110.us I believe that point never came up at bittech
> It's hard to get past for many others it freaking ends all close comparisons temp wise seeing cost is stupid on ek's side :thumb:


yeah. i think he is hurt after what was shown here about his "tests".. he did reply with:

PD: this "media" bad informing "not even knows whats what" its getting to the point of ridiculous..


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> yeah. i think he is hurt after what was shown here about his "tests".. he did reply with:


Hi,
I take it that is TPU responding there lol I have no idea who that dude is 

Only benefit to TPU is a faster/ closer benchmark app download server than 3dguru for USA users otherwise that website is so overly moderated it's a joke. 
Can't even post links to products I use pathetic guess you have to be on TPU official approved spam list lol to post anything and only to his lame articles and approved products :/


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I take it that is TPU responding there lol I have no idea who that dude is
> 
> Only benefit to TPU is a faster/ closer benchmark app download server than 3dguru for USA users otherwise that website is so overly moderated it's a joke.
> Can't even post links to products I use pathetic guess you have to be on TPU official approved spam list lol to post anything and only to his lame articles and approved products :/


no, thats mr mustache lol


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> no, thats mr mustache lol


Hi,
Sheet man that dude is a complete joke I can't even look at that bozo :thumbsdow


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Sheet man that dude is a complete joke I can't even look at that bozo :thumbsdow


This is a public group so no pms here


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Seems he keeps avoiding addresses any posts of the other is that Alexis... you by the way ?

Sure doesn't look like a fluid conservation
One person pointing out something and the other on a totally different page or something ?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Seems he keeps avoiding addresses any posts of the other is that Alexis... you by the way ?
> 
> Sure doesn't look like a fluid conservation
> One person pointing out something and the other on a totally different page or something ?


yeah thats me asking him about the bad tests and that we called him out over here. I guess he is very aware of that, so he still visits this lands.

Thing started with him talking to another user about 


> I don’t buy their numbers though, their marketing speak is bull**** enough haha.


so i reply with the first tests he did on the ek magnitude block, because he did updated that video with a new set of tests "which i wonder why :rollseyes:"


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> yeah thats me asking him about the bad tests and that we called him out over here. I guess he is very aware of that, so he still visits this lands.


Hi,
Looks like he's pretty much in denial or doesn't address your posts very soon or if at all 
Dude needs some more system to be taken seriously 
And also trim that silly stash for goodness sake. slap whoever said that looked good lol think they were joking when they said it looked good :buttkick:


----------



## skupples

lol "TP did a review, one was cooler than the other" and yes, we all know the marketing from optimus is BS. that's the second definition of marketing. 


what is bit-tech? 

googling.

oh i see. they're a wanna be linus. of course they'd hate us 

the uber defensive butt hurt nature of it all. I bet he also thinks trump told people to inject H202. The instant-extreme defensive nature you see from people my age is just pathetic. Your website doesn't mean you know everything. N relying on TP/Reddit for info = lulz. 

watercooling discord?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

I dont find the marketing from optimus been kind of missleading to be honest.

The thing is worth every penny "V2" it is. Even when i matched the performance with a decade old block from koolance. Yeah they tried to not credit my findings at the beginning they even sent me a more flattest block for testing which is doing pretty good on my main rig. But i always said all alone money wise the block itself is build like a tank and it does perform as well. Worth every penny.

The only thing now left to test in my end is the longetivity on the block i do use distilled water so thats that. I did put also im not a fan of the unibody of the block itself. But i guess the foundation is more up to the task for future upgrades i supposed. The whole unibody thing adds to the name of build like a tank n to this block. You aint finding a better builded block out there like this one and a performer as well.

I sport a few blocks and v2 its my favorite it looks good and clean and it performs where it needs to. Using trash data on the ek vs the foundation alone. He did try every thing possible. Main reason not to try the new ek block in my end. 

My ek evo still need some elbow work to be done Im not done with him. Lucky him, i sport every socket bracket possible thats why i dont get rid of him.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> lol "TP did a review, one was cooler than the other" and yes, we all know the marketing from optimus is BS. that's the second definition of marketing.
> 
> 
> what is bit-tech?
> 
> googling.
> 
> oh i see. they're a wanna be linus. of course they'd hate us
> 
> the uber defensive butt hurt nature of it all. I bet he also thinks trump told people to inject H202. The instant-extreme defensive nature you see from people my age is just pathetic. Your website doesn't mean you know everything. N relying on TP/Reddit for info = lulz.
> 
> watercooling discord?


Hi,
Think the worst was the opening insults to people that actually are using the optimus blocks and saying we were seeing what we wanted to see lol 

I believe he did the same thing only in a joke fashion and using averages as some sort of professional conclusion 
Open box break down is what he should stick too not testing 
His testing is a sad joke period.
Surprised he allowed images contradicting his claims to be there at all 
I guess I'll give him that much credit for not removing my test images as soon as I posted them 
Ban :lachen:

I really can't stand TPU's facebook nonsense advertised like this and that post/ reaction crap format bunch of snow flakes there anyway.


----------



## skupples

zGunBLADEz said:


> I dont find the marketing from optimus been kind of missleading to be honest.
> 
> The thing is worth every penny "V2" it is. Even when i matched the performance with a decade old block from koolance. Yeah they tried to not credit my findings at the beginning they even sent me a more flattest block for testing which is doing pretty good on my main rig. But i always said all alone money wise the block itself is build like a tank and it does perform as well. Worth every penny.
> 
> The only thing now left to test in my end is the longetivity on the block i do use distilled water so thats that. I did put also im not a fan of the unibody of the block itself. But i guess the foundation is more up to the task for future upgrades i supposed. The whole unibody thing adds to the name of build like a tank n to this block. You aint finding a better builded block out there like this one and a performer as well.


reads like your boy Alex is jealous. Its the vibe you get from someone that basically wants to say "WHY WASNT IT ME THAT GOT POPULAR?!" but can't actually say that, because than the true-douche comes out.

as for the omni-block. Yep. I'm rather impressed with the build quality. Then again, it's a $180 block, sooo.

I'd assume the mainstream ones cool just as well.


Thrash - 

Social Media's format is not one for spreading & sharing knowledge. Never really has been. This is why our forums cling to life. Dude seems like he'd make a fine NYT reporter. 

I get that he likely has to drowned himself in shill bills to keep Bit-Tech running, but damn, it's clearly gone to his head.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
NYT reporter okay that's funny :thumb:


----------



## zGunBLADEz

You have the foundation too thats what trash test against the ek one. He did all kind of stuff to it both blocks to squeeze the most he can.

Trash had various ek choices including all top metal even that was no match to the foundation.
Thats when the money gap between ek is even worst. 50%+ more cost.

Main reason i chimed into that reply on the FB group was because somebody pointed out optimus and he responded. So i responded to his "previous" set of tests. So you can clearly see its biased at best.


----------



## skupples

ohh! it's a facebook group. this all makes much more sense now. 

excessive social media users have no clue how over grown their reaction and drama muscle is.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

skupples said:


> ohh! it's a facebook group. this all makes much more sense now.
> 
> excessive social media users have no clue how over grown their reaction and drama muscle is.


You called me off on that if im not mistaken on the beginning here. Remember? Maybe was another user not 100% sure... thats why i dont take too seriously "youtubers/reviewers mainstream media" to give it a name now a days.

I mean i been doing this for long enough to not go by them or take them too serious, its entertainment for me at least.. But, sometimes they dont have no clue on what they reporting then you wonder why people new people come and say the stuff they said around... But linus said... but this one said this or that...

Linus lately is a crap fest worst than cnet electronic department..

funny tho half of linus videos are aimed to gear that less than 1% can afford.. so what sells there>? still attracts this users..


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> You have the foundation too thats what thrash test against the ek one. He did all kind of stuff to it both blocks to squeeze the most he can.
> 
> Thrash had various ek choices including all top metal even that was no match to the foundation.
> Thats when the money gap between ek is even worst. 50%+ more cost.
> 
> Main reason i chimed into that reply on the FB group was because somebody pointed out optimus and he responded. So i responded to his "previous" set of tests. So you can clearly see its biased at best.
> 
> You called me off on that if im not mistaken on the beginning here. Remember? Maybe was another user not 100% sure thats why i dont take too seriously "youtubers media" to give it a name now a days.


Hi,
I didn't do much of anything to the foundation just mounted it and done.
All tweaks were done to the sigV2 to fit the chip

Both ek mag variations nickle top and acetal top at first was just no springs mount and that seemed to disqualify me to some people for some reason 

Equal to me is they both are mounted the exact same way default mount what ever I shoot for best performance default ek mount sucked game over ? nope continue on 
2 dollar ek blocks can be mounted without springs lol just some small washers boom done to difficult lol disqualifying okay what ever :doh:

Other things I did to get ek mount springless were unnecessary but since I had a different mount that amounted to the same end result makes no difference.

Oddest is ek using a 79 series chip for testing instead of 99 or now cheaper 10 series chip to shape a bow in a cold plate instead of 79 series that needs little to no bow at all.


----------



## skupples

zGunBLADEz said:


> You called me off on that if im not mistaken on the beginning here. Remember? Maybe was another user not 100% sure... thats why i dont take too seriously "youtubers/reviewers mainstream media" to give it a name now a days.
> 
> *I mean i been doing this for long enough to not go by them or take them too serious,* its entertainment for me at least.. But, sometimes they dont have no clue on what they reporting then you wonder why people new people come and say the stuff they said around... But linus said... but this one said this or that...
> 
> Linus lately is a crap fest worst than cnet electronic department..
> 
> funny tho half of linus videos are aimed to gear that less than 1% can afford.. so what sells there>? still attracts this users..


right, n they're used to delivering information for those too dumb/stubborn to double check it. 

that tom's review, even if its .1c IS SOLID PROOF EK IS BETTER. PERIOD. it's a symptom of a larger issue unfortunately. 

idk how to break this down... humans mistake the basic skill of being able to read with truth. they see it, they believe it, they move on, they repeat it.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

The idea is to make sure the block make good contact springs or not.. whats the big idea you trying the best you can to hit that spot? so how it disqualify you for that?

Optimus "new" set of no spring is as easy as it gets to mount a block on a cpu and get good contact right away... it cannot be more easier than that.
The springs on the first version were to long so it required to modified them, or not use them at all the set still worked to secure the block. either you cut the spring 1-2 chains down and short the spring or use no spring...


----------



## skupples

I hadn't seen so much talk about block mounting pressure since this last wave of chips, tbh.

biffed mounts happen, of course... but now everyone seems to be hyper-focused on perfecting that process. must be where the last few % are for us, and the manufacturer.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
IDK you'd have to ask Mr. Electrical engineer about the disqualification process out of the box blah... lol


----------



## skupples

zGunBLADEz said:


> The idea is to make sure the block make good contact springs or not.. whats the big idea you trying the best you can to hit that spot? so how it disqualify you for that?
> 
> Optimus "new" set of no spring is as easy as it gets to mount a block on a cpu and get good contact right away... it cannot be more easier than that.
> The springs on the first version were to long so it required to modified them, or not use them at all the set still worked to secure the block. either you cut the spring 1-2 chains down and short the spring or use no spring...


i thought the newest mount revision was only for the plexi blocks?

yeah, this omniblock that came in last week has no springs. just studs n thumbs.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
My foundation came with springless but did have a back plate included if for 115x socket.
SigV2 came with spring mount only had to order a spring less.


----------



## skupples

what? there's no backplate in this box and no back plate mentioning anywhere. there's definitely a cut out for one in the foam though (came direct from them)


----------



## zGunBLADEz

skupples said:


> I hadn't seen so much talk about block mounting pressure since this last wave of chips, tbh.
> 
> biffed mounts happen, of course... but now everyone seems to be hyper-focused on perfecting that process. must be where the last few % are for us, and the manufacturer.


Like i told optimus, i wished i can get perfect contact between "my sandwich" i really do.. I do have super cold cores on my 7980xe i wish all of them were the same that means i could shoot 1.5v and top out maybe 80cs on good ambients. I tried also direct die, no dice... only thing left is sanding the actual die to try to flat it out as much as possible. But my 7980xe is quite a good sample. im risking to mess it up in the end for something im not going to be running 24/7 anyway... Loads and temps looks good but im not running my 7980xe as the tests posted here. Yeah i did throw everything at him lol but those are not my 24/7 clocks. Hes heavily tweaked "per core" using adaptive and everything else, c states on and all those power savings things.. 



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> IDK you'd have to ask Mr. Electrical engineer about the disqualification process out of the box blah... lol


oh him ok lol... bcuz supposedly he block me now idk for what i was just trying to help him i guess he stills dont know how to get the power reading i was referring to. i mean i told him to ask jpmboy or go read that on 10th series topic.. i guess the ups log is more important for the dissipation of that cpu block XD


----------



## zGunBLADEz

skupples said:


> i thought the newest mount revision was only for the plexi blocks?
> 
> yeah, this omniblock that came in last week has no springs. just studs n thumbs.


when i bought the V2 it did have the springs and also the backplate which i told optimus i prefer over the new set.. that i got with the demo block they sent me.. im not a fan of the new "no backplate" set for 115x
i also complained about the phillips screws on the bottom of the block i prefer hex screws as they are more durable..


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> what? there's no backplate in this box and no back plate mentioning anywhere. there's definitely a cut out for one in the foam though (came direct from them)


Hi,
Looks like something happened from when I bought December just before Christmas and now :/
I'd ask for one.


----------



## skupples

sending the core itself seems like a terrible idea.


----------



## skupples

yep, clearly says it on the site.

1 x Signature CPU Block
4 x Optimus CNC Mounting Posts w/ bushings
4 x Optimus CNC Thumb Screws
*1 x Intel back plate*
1 x Thermal paste syringe
1 x Installation instructions


email sent.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

yeah the new set have a thumb which honestly im not a fan of it.. specially lets say you are new user if you over tight the block can rip off from the mobo holes out..
the backplate is only for the 115x. I guess the new one is more universale can be used on both amd/intel less "cost"??

Amd "am4" has a backplate already so if screws fit in that wonderful. Intel "115x" dont. Why im not a fan of that round thumb


----------



## skupples

i'm sorry but... anyone that dumb deserves to brick their board. 

only one way to learn things, and if you're too daft to realize you're about to break your shart, well...


I just don't get why logic goes completely out the window for people in this regard.

"how tight?" 

idk, turn it the *** on and see if its cooling to its max potential, if not, tighten more.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I finally put a flat head tip slot in nuts darn things were tearing my fingers up lol 
Oops another disqualifying tweak when will I ever learn :doh:


----------



## zGunBLADEz

skupples said:


> sending the core itself seems like a terrible idea.


yeah, still a gamble after that if i dont damage it in the process. Bunch of little capacitors around i can knock off easy on the process..

Im pretty close to a good spread if i dont count those coldest cores. my 7940x have a better spread than my 7980xe.. and theres some certain voltage when the temps really shoot up like crazy no matter the cooling involved goal here was a "sustained test" i cannot do that if i dont turn ht off and using 1.3v+ even there you see packages as high as 350-400w with no ht. HT adds alot of watts to the load is not even funny. 

Then you have the contact issue between Die/IHS/Block, thats point of contacts that you need to get it right..


----------



## skupples

warranty disqualification only. 

i assume any of my existing 115x backplates will work? the studs seem the same size/pitch


----------



## zGunBLADEz

yeah why not, all that crap its universal for socket 115x if you need to use one. you already have the screw and the thumb..


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> warranty disqualification only.
> 
> i assume any of my existing 115x backplates will work? the studs seem the same size/pitch


Hi,
Here's a couple images


----------



## mgoldb2

Optimus WC said:


> Right now, our supplier for anodizing closed right at the beginning of covid. Then opened up again. Then closed down again and supposedly they'll be back open next week. They have 100% of our threadripper block brackets. So we're basically stuck until they can release them to us.


Did the Supplier you use for anodizing end up being open this week or was they still closed?


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> what? there's no backplate in this box and no back plate mentioning anywhere. there's definitely a cut out for one in the foam though (came direct from them)


My Sig V2 came with a back plate but had to request the springless mounting kit. 

I’m sure if you can get though to them they will send one out. It’s just been my experience to expect a delay with well.....just about everything. When I asked for the springless mount kit it was about a month and multiple contact methods from direct email to online contact us form and in the end the PM here was the method replied to. They are standing behind their product but make a sloth look like a top fuel dragster when it comes to reply and reaction. Came in like a ball of fire posting here almost daily to being very difficult to reach and long delays. They need to hire or designate someone as CS and stay on top of it. Even my 20 YO daughter does that part time with big corporations being the ones having a cow because their order for 10K pieces is not on time. They email and she either handles it or escalates it for a measly $10/hr. One more year of college to go. Having a 10 year warranty is worthless if you leave people down for a month without so much as a reply.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
With your sweet disposition gramps, optimus knows you'll be drama queen either way so they just let you wait and stew lol it's actually entertaining frankly


----------



## pmachado

Just thought I'd share a picture of the custom GPU back plate I had made in anticipation of getting my hands on their GPU block. I got myself a Heatkiller block in the meantime for this build. Will also give me a chance to compare the differences once Optimus delivers their 2080Ti block.


----------



## CAL V

zGunBLADEz said:


> Bittech guy about optimus xD


Not hard to see why he throws Optimus under the bus for not sending him free review units and he has to get one himself. 

He featured many EK stuff (and other brands too) on his builds and channel, which I assume are sponsored. I don't think I need to elaborate more on it. 

Haven't tested my foundation block, still waiting for it to reach but I have faith that it will do well.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Definitely a douche bag talking smack about other optimus users.
Where was that crap on ek mag stuff lol = douche bag hypocrite bias clearly shown.


----------



## skupples

i'm not playing the waiting game for a back plate.

@Optimus WC

please fix so I don't have to be a charge back dick.

- received SigV2 without a back plate. sent email to support. pinging you here as well. 

in side news - looks like I'll be dead in a few days, as I went and enjoyed the beach today.

I know, how dare I, shame on me! almost like this wasn't the purpose of flattening the curve. (only a few cities going critical, n the rest going broke)


----------



## ciarlatano

CAL V said:


> Not hard to see why he throws Optimus under the bus for not sending him free review units and he has to get one himself.
> 
> He featured many EK stuff (and other brands too) on his builds and channel, which I assume are sponsored. I don't think I need to elaborate more on it.
> 
> Haven't tested my foundation block, still waiting for it to reach but I have faith that it will do well.





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Definitely a douche bag talking smack about other optimus users.
> Where was that crap on ek mag stuff lol = douche bag hypocrite bias clearly shown.


It kills me that people refuse to believe what actually goes on with reviewers. I've related here exactly what went on with certain vendors while I was reviewing. But, posters here insist that these guys are impartial and don't worry about their freebies and/or samples from the big names being cut off...... The naivety is astounding.

I also really like the EK fanboy chiming in that the Magnitude performed better than the V2. No mention that it was a whopping 10th of a degree with a price tag almost 50% higher, or that it was .2 degrees better than the Foundation at twice the price.

That whole thread is just full of idiocy.


----------



## Kashtan

Just weight my waterblocks with and without colldplate ultraflat.


----------



## spitfire5792

Anyone else using an Optimus without backplate and finding major flex in their motherboard?

I’m using the AM4 Foundation block and when I follow Optimus’ instructions it was flexing the board.

Going to try reinstalling with much less pressure. Definitely not my favorite mount design.


----------



## ciarlatano

spitfire5792 said:


> Anyone else using an Optimus without backplate and finding major flex in their motherboard?
> 
> I’m using the AM4 Foundation block and when I follow Optimus’ instructions it was flexing the board.
> 
> Going to try reinstalling with much less pressure. Definitely not my favorite mount design.


I think I saw in another thread that you are using the washers? If so....keep in mind that the mount was designed to be used without them. The original units shipped without them. A user here threw a tantrum worthy of a three year old about the fact that there were no washers, a bunch of people chimed in "yeah...I guess there should be washers....", and Optimus starting shipping washers with the mounting kit as a result.

With that in mind, either back off the pressure a bit to accommodate the washers, or lose the washers and use the mount as it was originally designed and the instructions show.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
If you remount put the chip basically where it will sit on the block see how it fits.
All a block needs is good contact not to bottom out.

Use a back plate from a different block or something 
Optimus block are low riders should mount with near any other amd or intel mounting system that does use a back plate.


----------



## spitfire5792

ciarlatano said:


> spitfire5792 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone else using an Optimus without backplate and finding major flex in their motherboard?
> 
> Iâ€™️m using the AM4 Foundation block and when I follow Optimusâ€™️ instructions it was flexing the board.
> 
> Going to try reinstalling with much less pressure. Definitely not my favorite mount design.
> 
> 
> 
> I think I saw in another thread that you are using the washers? If so....keep in mind that the mount was designed to be used without them. The original units shipped without them. A user here threw a tantrum worthy of a three year old about the fact that there were no washers, a bunch of people chimed in "yeah...I guess there should be washers....", and Optimus starting shipping washers with the mounting kit as a result.
> 
> With that in mind, either back off the pressure a bit to accommodate the washers, or lose the washers and use the mount as it was originally designed and the instructions show.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, I did see that. I used the washers just on the underside of the board for more support.

I’m just going to mount with less pressure. I don’t see the removal of the washers being enough of a change to prevent this amount of flex.

It was bowing enough to almost hit the window on the mobo tray(on the case).

If I still have trouble I may give it a try without the washers.


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> With your sweet disposition gramps, optimus knows you'll be drama queen either way so they just let you wait and stew lol it's actually entertaining frankly


They normally turn their backs on people who insult their designs and take a side grinder to their blocks within 24 hours of receipt. If factual reporting of shortcomings are worthy of a crown or asking for a springless mounting kit to mitigate the design flaw they took forever and a day to send....I now feel cheated as I have not received a queens crown. It’s always a reply after many attempts with more excuses of how the emails were missed, then them the out for plating blah freaking blah blah blah. 

It’s awesome that you are entertained by manufacturers inadequacies. Read through the thread. There are many others still waiting on their queens crowns. 

Said it once and I’ll say it again. If they don’t fix this and do it soon they will be shutting down their operation. A manufacturer selling dog crap with excellent CS response is more likely to survive.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nice to your facts are as bad as your tests and setup comparisons still :thumb:


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> i'm not playing the waiting game for a back plate.
> 
> @Optimus WC
> 
> please fix so I don't have to be a charge back dick.
> 
> - received SigV2 without a back plate. sent email to support. pinging you here as well.
> 
> in side news - looks like I'll be dead in a few days, as I went and enjoyed the beach today.
> 
> I know, how dare I, shame on me! almost like this wasn't the purpose of flattening the curve. (only a few cities going critical, n the rest going broke)


PM me if you need a back plate with Info. I’ll not be using it. 

I’ll wrap it in an alcohol sheet and enclose it in a plastic barrier along with a pair of nitrile gloves. I’ve said more than once that more people will go bankrupt than contract the virus. Unfortunately I live in one of the worst stricken places in the country if not the planet. State of NJ has passed the 100K mark with death tolls high enough that active treatment centers have refrigerated transport trailers plugged in out back for cadaver storage. Some places have none and I see posts from friends down south where I’m from al freaking out. I’m like look at where you are compared to other places. The county I live in has far more active cases than the entire state you are in. Isolation remains your friend. That’s why the Midwest and remote communities have little to no impact. Hit a place like the Jersey shore and you are begging to be infected if it’s opened up. That’s why there is such a problem here. Population density. Out west it’s square miles per person where here it how many persons per sqft. Unfortunately I’ve known several people that did not survive. Some had underlying conditions while others were young and extremely healthy. It’s sad when someone you know has a 4YO child on a ventilator and has been for nearly a month. Chance of recovery is virtually 0. If you had a good spot where you could go and not be bothered that’s awesome. Only people enjoying beaches here are the PoPo. They aren’t screwing around here. Get caught and the least you get is a $500 fine for disorderly person. Some are in county lock up facing felony charges with no bond hearings as all the courts are closed.


----------



## spitfire5792

Reinstalled my AM4 foundation.

I have washers just on the backside of the board.

My process was to bring the thumb screws down to the aluminum plate. Then I went in an X pattern and tightened down maybe 2.5 turns? 

Block felt snug and there is minimal deflection in the motherboard.

I think this will be perfect!


----------



## ThrashZone

spitfire5792 said:


> Reinstalled my AM4 foundation.
> 
> I have washers just on the backside of the board.
> 
> My process was to bring the thumb screws down to the aluminum plate. Then I went in an X pattern and tightened down maybe 2.5 turns?
> 
> Block felt snug and there is minimal deflection in the motherboard.
> 
> I think this will be perfect!


Hi,
Yeah just do equal turns after snugging them all the same it will be fine 
I usually put a mark on the nuts after snugging them so I can keep track of the turn rotations too.


----------



## JustinThyme

spitfire5792 said:


> Reinstalled my AM4 foundation.
> 
> I have washers just on the backside of the board.
> 
> My process was to bring the thumb screws down to the aluminum plate. Then I went in an X pattern and tightened down maybe 2.5 turns?
> 
> Block felt snug and there is minimal deflection in the motherboard.
> 
> I think this will be perfect!


Only one way to find out. My X299 basically takes the same method but ending with as tight as you can get it without using a tool. 

I never did like going through a board without a substantial back plate. I think this was the down fall of the EK old monoblock. It was poke holes through PCB then pull a balancing act where you can keep the block on while putting screws in from the backside that leaves you no way to adjust in the least once the MOBO is installed. Not that it mattered as the standoffs on the block dictates the mount when it bottoms out in the PCB. Push it too much and you pull the block through the PCB.


----------



## spitfire5792

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah just do equal turns after snugging them all the same it will be fine
> I usually put a mark on the nuts after snugging them so I can keep track of the turn rotations too.


That's a clever idea, I'll remember that for the future. 

I do a decent amount of mechanical work and smithing so that's a good tip for me all around.

Thanks


----------



## ThrashZone

spitfire5792 said:


> That's a clever idea, I'll remember that for the future.
> 
> I do a decent amount of mechanical work and smithing so that's a good tip for me all around.
> 
> Thanks


Hi,
Thanks 
Don't forget to set the chip on the block and see how it fits first
That will mostly tell you want is going on before you tighten it down equally.

If a block doesn't fit the chip well no amount of pressure will usually change that fact and will only damage the board more than likely.


----------



## sakete

Still think it's one of the best looking blocks out there.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Cold plates are doing a good job too at high clocks.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

CAL V said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Bittech guy about optimus xD
> 
> 
> 
> Not hard to see why he throws Optimus under the bus for not sending him free review units and he has to get one himself.
> 
> He featured many EK stuff (and other brands too) on his builds and channel, which I assume are sponsored. I don't think I need to elaborate more on it.
> 
> Haven't tested my foundation block, still waiting for it to reach but I have faith that it will do well.
Click to expand...

Yeah thats why i chimed in. You can see the bias clearly that his reply when they mentioned optimus. 

Funny thing tho. His first set of test were a joke. As a hcc user you will know right away his tests were wrong from the beginning. He only compared both ek blocks . on a 220-250w package load... My setup alone on 65f ambient matched his delta on a full load. Almost +25c difference between his test and mine on the same type of load. I mean not like the settings he used on a 7980xe at 40x @ 1.1v on p95 26.6 that tops out at 32T ending with 2/4T of those 36T idling its that much of a extreme setting to begin with :rollseyes:.

This type of block or any block for that matters you really start to notice the difference on a 400w+ load thats when a performer block will show whats made for. Calling a win on a half a degree which is margin of error like TPU did on and no so so 200w mark load. Then you have bittech calling optimus out and showing how bias they are its another one. But like i said theres a threshold where in your sandwich which in my case is cpu delidded/die uneven/ihs/block you start noticing the imperfections of the gaps that you dont notice on small payloads... From 300w to 400w thats where they start showing more drastic that difference.

I had tests here where my 7980xe is shy of 500w package load... my 8700k on 210w+.. also stupid low temps on a 7980xe with not ht enable with good temps. The block is all around showing good perf.

Thats why i said from beginning showing the package load is very important so you had an idea of cooling potential. Voltage alone is not a pointer. You actually need that package "watts" load to understand the cooling potential of the device. No "ups/p3" logs btw lol.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nice to your facts are as bad as your tests and setup comparisons still /forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif


 i still dont see the problem of you trying to get the best out of the blocks washers or not or modifications. They cant say you didnt try anyway. I swapped my optimus all way around to check for disparity even changed mounting screws including ek ones which were my favorite mounting screws. Compared against different blocks at hand as well.
My best results were when i used Liquid metal on top the ihs. 
Only issue with that is, i need to wait to cure it on the copper ihs itself.. So, it will be asking for a new fresh application sooner or later till it stops to getting merged with the copper itself. 

Thats the only way you can clearly see that difference you know your stuff you dont have this particular website or person telling you so. Thats why i compared and throw different results here. Tweaked and not tweaked always showing the package load on watts. How i dropped my package disparity to a 5c tops etc...
Have a few d5 strong that i never run at 24v on my tests all they were on 12v/L3 on a mora360 and the block itself. So i can clearly see the perf of the block. If i add 5-6 blocks in between ideally aint going to be the same lol..

We payed for this features might as well use them.
Its not only put the block and hope for the best. Also, be realistic on what you dealing with. Handling 400w+ payload and expectations on good temps on a high ambient theres no miracle for that xD

This is all the lm you need. Doesnt need to be watery like most applications you see around a "river of lm" lol.
Also doesnt need to cover the whole ihs. Used captains tape for a safety measure around the gaps on the cpu and socket. My board lays flat "horizontal" on my case so i dont worry about running lm. But just in case xD.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

mgoldb2 said:


> Optimus WC said:
> 
> 
> 
> Right now, our supplier for anodizing closed right at the beginning of covid. Then opened up again. Then closed down again and supposedly they'll be back open next week. They have 100% of our threadripper block brackets. So we're basically stuck until they can release them to us.
> 
> 
> 
> Did the Supplier you use for anodizing end up being open this week or was they still closed?
Click to expand...

Everything here in illinois/chicago its closed if not essential. New date is end of may now, they extended the stay at home order another month.
Those people probably are working for the state/federal if they are open and not doing blocks 😕...


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> i still dont see the problem of you trying to get the best out of the blocks washers or not or modifications. They cant say you didnt try anyway. I swapped my optimus all way around to check for disparity even changed mounting screws including ek ones which were my favorite mounting screws. Compared against different blocks at hand as well.
> My best results were when i used Liquid metal on top the ihs.
> Only issue with that is, i need to wait to cure it on the copper ihs itself.. So, it will be asking for a new fresh application sooner or later till it stops to getting merged with the copper itself.
> 
> Thats the only way you can clearly see that difference you know your stuff you dont have this particular website or person telling you so. Thats why i compared and throw different results here. Tweaked and not tweaked always showing the package load on watts. How i dropped my package disparity to a 5c tops etc...
> Have a few d5 strong that i never run at 24v on my tests all they were on 12v/L3 on a mora360 and the block itself. So i can clearly see the perf of the block. If i add 5-6 blocks in between ideally aint going to be the same lol..
> 
> We payed for this features might as well use them.
> Its not only put the block and hope for the best. Also, be realistic on what you dealing with. Handling 400w+ payload and expectations on good temps on a high ambient theres no miracle for that xD
> 
> This is all the lm you need. Doesnt need to be watery like most applications you see around a "river of lm" lol.
> Also doesnt need to cover the whole ihs. Used captains tape for a safety measure around the gaps on the cpu and socket. My board lays flat "horizontal" on my case so i dont worry about running lm. But just in case xD.


Hi,
Me either frankly but justin doesn't like facts unfortunately 

Worst thing about justin was he totally changed his cooling system for one didn't see an issue with it just a typo lol









And also did shorter tests on the ek block only 30 minutes and used the longer optimus test 60+ minutes and doesn't think it disqualifies his original results lol

Also was playing with his ambient too his minimum temps were 5c cooler on ek tests almost the same as he claimed his room ambient was lol how often does that happen without a chiller of some sort 
Optimus minimum temps were closer to 30c lol so yeah he's looking more like a ek shill bucking for a encore mono block no doubt lol 









Pretty much why I used opendata long no way to cheat the results too easy to run 
Put both block results on top of each other different multipliers and people can see both at the same time and how they both scale to the different multipliers really to simplistic not enough text drama, best to keep other tests separate so the story can be manipulated properly.

I could care a less abut the sigV2 it was as bad as ek mag mount so both of them were total fails out the box

Foundation clearly was the out of the box winner 
Justin won't get or ask for one though because 110.00 acetal or 120.00 for a plexi foundation is too much to see for him self and serve his real purpose of ek mono block or two in the end.
I could care a less about ek 
Their blocks are stupidly over priced period = fail.


----------



## mgoldb2

zGunBLADEz said:


> Everything here in illinois/chicago its closed if not essential. New date is end of may now, they extended the stay at home order another month.
> Those people probably are working for the state/federal if they are open and not doing blocks 😕...


Fair enough. 

Right now got my Threadripper build running in basement on a Bykski CPU-RYZEN-X-MK CPU. It was cheapest option and wanted to at least test everything out while am waiting for Optimus. I still would not want to stress it to much with the Bykski or use it as my prime computer with it inside. It worked ok for installing windows and some stress testing with no overclocking

At this point I just want to move it into office so I can start using it as my new prime computer so I think I pick up a Watercool HEATKILLER® IV PRO for Threadripper since it look like modmymods have them in stock now. As far as I can tell that the best option for threadripper out there that I could get my hands on quickly. I probably just continue running it with the Heatkiller in short term since it a bit of pain moving case from my office to basement, 2 floors and it require me strapping it to a hand cart. I do minor upgrades in office but stuff involving the loop rather work on it in basement. Once the the 3080TI comes out, I switch to the Optimus at same time am switching GPUs out. 

I still prefer just using the Optimus from start but at least there a silver lining that I be able to see how well Optimus performs vs the Heatkiller.

I probably wait till Friday before making the Heatkiller order just in case it turns out Optimus can start getting it out this week or next. End of May is to long of wait for me to start using the computer as my Prime.


----------



## ppcli

I was really shocked that the Ek mono blocked worked better on the X570 hero then the Optimus. More surprising the difference in temps and the Heatkiller has out preformed the Optimus to. It would have been nice to hear back from Optimus it’s been a couple weeks. Nothing from them , My EK shows today see if I can lower the temps more on the 3950x

I’m running 4608.5 MHz on all core about 34C gaming 45C gaming


----------



## JustinThyme

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Me either frankly but justin doesn't like facts unfortunately
> 
> Worst thing about justin was he totally changed his cooling system for one didn't see an issue with it just a typo lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also did shorter tests on the ek block only 30 minutes and used the longer optimus test 60+ minutes and doesn't think it disqualifies his original results lol
> 
> Also was playing with his ambient too his minimum temps were 5c cooler on ek tests almost the same as he claimed his room ambient was lol how often does that happen without a chiller of some sort
> Optimus minimum temps were closer to 30c lol so yeah he's looking more like a ek shill bucking for a encore mono block no doubt lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much why I used opendata long no way to cheat the results too easy to run
> Put both block results on top of each other different multipliers and people can see both at the same time and how they both scale to the different multipliers really to simplistic not enough text drama, best to keep other tests separate so the story can be manipulated properly.
> 
> I could care a less abut the sigV2 it was as bad as ek mag mount so both of them were total fails out the box
> 
> Foundation clearly was the out of the box winner
> Justin won't get or ask for one though because 110.00 acetal or 120.00 for a plexi foundation is too much to see for him self and serve his real purpose of ek mono block or two in the end.
> I could care a less about ek
> Their blocks are stupidly over priced period = fail.


Who said I didn’t like facts? All I said is you were asked a simple task by EK anyway and blew it. Your data to them was useless. That’s all I was saying. Mod to your hearts content. Thing is 99.9% of people want the numbers of what they get out of the box. The only thing you did out of the box that I’m aware of of the foundation. Why would I want one? It’s clear your IHS and mine are not even close. You want me to test it, send it to me and I’ll test it out and send it back. 

I’ve made no mistake about it that I’m not a follower of any manufacturer but promised to give an unbiased run with what I’ve been provided and have this far done precisely that with no modifications. What happens or doesn’t happen down the road is another story. I’m liable to weld the damn block to the IHS. Who knows. But for now it’s as is testing, not modified class. Like I’ve said, you seem to do a good modding job and should start your own thread with it and offer up your services in the market place. Thing is people will have to send MOBO, Chip and block as if we’ve proven nothing else two chips with the same SKU don’t even have the same IHS properties.

As for cooling system change, all data has been repeated with both on a single D5 and a 480 Rad and the unmodified Sig V2 didn’t like the pressure drop.

If you want facts to back and review your misquotes. I said I made a typo on the time. Every single one of them has the exact run time on the HWinfo. You are worse than CNN with cutting feeds and distorting what’s been posted by cropping what’s there.

Don’t be hatin because you are 100MHz behind in the 5GHz club.


----------



## Section31

ppcli said:


> I was really shocked that the Ek mono blocked worked better on the X570 hero then the Optimus. More surprising the difference in temps and the Heatkiller has out preformed the Optimus to. It would have been nice to hear back from Optimus itâ€™️s been a couple weeks. Nothing from them , My EK shows today see if I can lower the temps more on the 3950x
> 
> Iâ€™️m running 4608.5 MHz on all core about 34C gaming 45C gaming


Really curious results. There was someone who had results where the anti-dri tech cooler cooled better than the optimus. 

I had both the heatkiller and optimus block tested and the optimus was cooler but if you had an heatkiller block, i probably wouldn’t go out and buy one. Also running it on the hero viii (can’t understand gigabyte master bios).

Still not sure how we can drop temperatures further without an complete redesign of cpu blocks and how they contact the cpu. Maybe an cpu block designed for direct dye contact?


----------



## skupples

Spoiler






JustinThyme said:


> PM me if you need a back plate with Info. I’ll not be using it.
> 
> I’ll wrap it in an alcohol sheet and enclose it in a plastic barrier along with a pair of nitrile gloves. I’ve said more than once that more people will go bankrupt than contract the virus. Unfortunately I live in one of the worst stricken places in the country if not the planet. State of NJ has passed the 100K mark with death tolls high enough that active treatment centers have refrigerated transport trailers plugged in out back for cadaver storage. Some places have none and I see posts from friends down south where I’m from al freaking out. I’m like look at where you are compared to other places. The county I live in has far more active cases than the entire state you are in. Isolation remains your friend. That’s why the Midwest and remote communities have little to no impact. Hit a place like the Jersey shore and you are begging to be infected if it’s opened up. That’s why there is such a problem here. Population density. Out west it’s square miles per person where here it how many persons per sqft. Unfortunately I’ve known several people that did not survive. Some had underlying conditions while others were young and extremely healthy. It’s sad when someone you know has a 4YO child on a ventilator and has been for nearly a month. Chance of recovery is virtually 0. If you had a good spot where you could go and not be bothered that’s awesome. Only people enjoying beaches here are the PoPo. They aren’t screwing around here. Get caught and the least you get is a $500 fine for disorderly person. Some are in county lock up facing felony charges with no bond hearings as all the courts are closed.






thanks for the offer, i'll let you know if/when they take forever.


----------



## Shawnb99

How long can we expect the 3080TI blocks to come out after the cards? Will it be a 6+ month wait as well?

Considering you still promised FTW3 and kingpin blocks are those still planned?


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> How long can we expect the 3080TI blocks to come out after the cards? Will it be a 6+ month wait as well?
> 
> Considering you still promised FTW3 and kingpin blocks are those still planned?


3080ti blocks will come out when 4080ti is released.


----------



## skupples

3080ti blocks should come shortly before 4080 drops. 

its just really hard, ok guys?! like woah, we barely even had one made when we said we had one made & started taking your money!


----------



## JustinThyme

skupples said:


> 3080ti blocks should come shortly before 4080 drops.
> 
> its just really hard, ok guys?! like woah, we barely even had one made when we said we had one made & started taking your money!


IMO this company is going to be gone faster than it appeared. 
Honestly if it was me and I’d paid for something that long ago and still getting stories of this that of the other I’d had already filed for a charge back. A week or two is one thing, a month is unbelievable. Anything past that sounds closer to a Nigerian scammer has gotten the best of you. The offer stands of you want to get your block installed. Upon close inspection it’s freaking composite plastic anyhow and I’d be more inclined to find something different.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
If you want a 2080ti/.... water block at this late date go buy one it's that simple.


----------



## Kashtan

I planning to sell my current Apex Xi, and wiil to buy next Apex XII. Waterblock Signature suitable for attachment at new motherboard?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Kashtan said:


> I planning to sell my current Apex Xi, and wiil to buy next Apex XII. Waterblock Signature suitable for attachment at new motherboard?


lga 1151v2 coolers should be compatible with lga 1200


----------



## ThrashZone

Kashtan said:


> I planning to sell my current Apex Xi, and wiil to buy next Apex XII. Waterblock Signature suitable for attachment at new motherboard?


Hi,
I'd get a foundation instead frankly it fits at least my chips a lot better than sigV2 did plus save a little money at the same time.
SigV2 has a boat load of bow in it more than most chips need thus not getting very good contact.


----------



## Kashtan

Thank you. 
I can`t to return Signature, so be at me.


----------



## skupples

wouldn't surprise me if they vanish into the ether over the next year. I think they'll at least finish their existing work. we just won't see anything new after that. 


ah! it is plastic... thought I saw mold injection points. I'm guessing it'll mate with my existing EK back plate. if not, i'll re-thread it, assuming that's the reason. 

I can get my money back today, or next month... so i'll keep playing their game until there's something else to do.

now then, if anyone has an HK/AQComp block for sale, i'll cancel today


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> wouldn't surprise me if they vanish into the ether over the next year. I think they'll at least finish their existing work. we just won't see anything new after that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ah! it is plastic... thought I saw mold injection points. I'm guessing it'll mate with my existing EK back plate. if not, i'll re-thread it, assuming that's the reason.
> 
> 
> 
> I can get my money back today, or next month... so i'll keep playing their game until there's something else to do.
> 
> 
> 
> now then, if anyone has an HK/AQComp block for sale, i'll cancel today


So much for that 10yr warranty then.


----------



## skupples

its all 100% pure conjecture.

nothing they're doing now is any different from how they've ever done things. so we'll see what happens.


----------



## Shawnb99

I hope they make it and stick around for years to come. I want that all copper radiator and one day have all Optimus parts so I can run straight tap water!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
lol tap water okay now 

Indeed a optimus dual d5 pump doodah and reservoir would be sweet
GPU block well hopefully they will get their stuff together by the 3080ti release is all I can say otherwise watercool or evga hydro copper will get the water block money no biggie either is okay.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> wouldn't surprise me if they vanish into the ether over the next year. I think they'll at least finish their existing work. we just won't see anything new after that.
> 
> 
> ah! it is plastic... thought I saw mold injection points. I'm guessing it'll mate with my existing EK back plate. if not, i'll re-thread it, assuming that's the reason.
> 
> I can get my money back today, or next month... so i'll keep playing their game until there's something else to do.
> 
> now then, if anyone has an HK/AQComp block for sale, i'll cancel today


I think your best bet is just to order from PPCS or direct from europe. I ended up ordering my heatkiller and aquacomputer stuff direct from germany (the official web store). All my calculations make it cheapest place to order. Only my local supplier is comparable (Dazmode) but they rarely have stock of it. That and dazmode told me to just buy from Germany if he doesn't have stock. I would only get from the US if i could ship it to my friend and have them bring it up but that's not going to be an option for a while. Regarding my outstanding CPU block order, that will stay though.

My friend was thinking of getting an barrows d5 pump res combo but after he saw the prices of the aquacomputer 150mm ultitube d5 pump combo (117Euro) and even the ultitube pro 150mm with d5 next (163euro), its became the best choice. The barrows d5/pump combo is only slightly cheaper than the ultitube d5 combo. Funny how aquacomputer blocks are really expensive yet the fan controllers, pumps, sensors and reservoir are all reasonably priced.


----------



## JustinThyme

Kashtan said:


> I planning to sell my current Apex Xi, and wiil to buy next Apex XII. Waterblock Signature suitable for attachment at new motherboard?


What block works best is highly controversial. I had decent results with a Sig V2 on a 9940X. The blocks have the same cold plate. The different is the foundation has an acrylic top and thereby has some give. If nothing else has been proven it’s the fact that no two IHS properties are the same even with the same SKU. Thrash said his performance with the Sig V2 sucked Bawlz while mine was fine with the exact same 9940X CPUs. 

I can’t speak for the foundation as I went straight for what the company said was without question their flagship model.


----------



## CAL V

Section31 said:


> My friend was thinking of getting an barrows d5 pump res combo but after he saw the prices of the aquacomputer 150mm ultitube d5 pump combo (117Euro) and even the ultitube pro 150mm with d5 next (163euro), its became the best choice. The barrows d5/pump combo is only slightly cheaper than the ultitube d5 combo. Funny how aquacomputer blocks are really expensive yet the fan controllers, pumps, sensors and reservoir are all reasonably priced.


Have to agree, if I order all the things I want from Watercool from Germany directly, it'd end up matching the prices of EK stuff sold by local distributors. Probably even after the import tax. 

The only problem I have with Barrow/Bykski stuff is how they are priced in the states and even worse in europe. Take a look in AliExpress or Taobao, some of their stuff are about half the price. I know they are subject to taxes and other cost, but the prices just doesn't make much sense.


----------



## Section31

I have seen the prices on aliexpress/taobao too. Aliexpress shipping is per item and adds up. I got credit card fraud from aliexpress so i am wary of buying from them. I would only pay with wechat pay/alipay there at this point.

Problem with taobao is you cant ship internationally and payment method. Only works if you have friends and family in china/hong kong who have wechat pay/alipay (common usage there). Not everyone has that option.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Me either frankly but justin doesn't like facts unfortunately
> 
> Worst thing about justin was he totally changed his cooling system for one didn't see an issue with it just a typo lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also did shorter tests on the ek block only 30 minutes and used the longer optimus test 60+ minutes and doesn't think it disqualifies his original results lol
> 
> Also was playing with his ambient too his minimum temps were 5c cooler on ek tests almost the same as he claimed his room ambient was lol how often does that happen without a chiller of some sort
> Optimus minimum temps were closer to 30c lol so yeah he's looking more like a ek shill bucking for a encore mono block no doubt lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much why I used opendata long no way to cheat the results too easy to run
> Put both block results on top of each other different multipliers and people can see both at the same time and how they both scale to the different multipliers really to simplistic not enough text drama, best to keep other tests separate so the story can be manipulated properly.
> 
> I could care a less abut the sigV2 it was as bad as ek mag mount so both of them were total fails out the box
> 
> Foundation clearly was the out of the box winner
> Justin won't get or ask for one though because 110.00 acetal or 120.00 for a plexi foundation is too much to see for him self and serve his real purpose of ek mono block or two in the end.
> I could care a less about ek
> Their blocks are stupidly over priced period = fail.


oh i see... 5c is alot specially on the water temp..yeah same thing happen towards me a few times too..
first he came jumping guns on the pull of his entire system vs my data..

Justin: only 350w? i pull this much on mine....
Me: im only talking about the cpu portion

Justin: wait a minute wait a minute that score sucks "talking about my rog bench test" which was aimed at the temps not the score
here is my score with 2 x2080tis "capt obvious" if he entertain himself that much should have read the AMD 580 my open bench had lol

but you know i run a 7980xe with alot of money dedicated to water cooling to have a gpu like the 580 on it "rollseyes"

and last not least, lets not talk about the ups vs my reading dilemma that i got "blocked for" lol


----------



## CAL V

Section31 said:


> I have seen the prices on aliexpress/taobao too. Aliexpress shipping is per item and adds up. I got credit card fraud from aliexpress so i am wary of buying from them. I would only pay with wechat pay/alipay there at this point.
> 
> Problem with taobao is you cant ship internationally and payment method. Only works if you have friends and family in china/hong kong who have wechat pay/alipay (common usage there). Not everyone has that option.


I see, that's terrible, I should be more cautious when paying with my visa/mastercard next time. 

Not sure if such services is available at your place, they are basically forwarder for parcels from China. They have a warehouse that collects all the parcels in China (mostly in GuangZhou), pack them into one bag or repackage them upon request and ship them in one go. Shipping within China is rather cheap. These services are abundant in Asia (where I live), even Taobao themselves offer these kind of service but with lesser flexibility. 

Only caveat is dealing with warranty and returns, so I only buy low value items or basically deem there's no warranty, the hassle is not worth it unless the forwarder can help to ship it back.


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> oh i see... 5c is alot specially on the water temp..yeah same thing happen towards me a few times too..
> first he came jumping guns on the pull of his entire system vs my data..
> 
> Justin: only 350w? i pull this much on mine....
> Me: im only talking about the cpu portion
> 
> Justin: wait a minute wait a minute that score sucks "talking about my rog bench test" which was aimed at the temps not the score
> here is my score with 2 x2080tis "capt obvious" if he entertain himself that much should have read the AMD 580 my open bench had lol
> 
> but you know i run a 7980xe with alot of money dedicated to water cooling to have a gpu like the 580 on it "rollseyes"
> 
> and last not least, lets not talk about the ups vs my reading dilemma that i got "blocked for" lol


Hi,
Yeah big difference in measuring power pull on an entire system and just the cpu he doesn't get that.

Lost count on how many times he said to ignore his opendata finish time since it was 1-2 seconds longer than any of mine were at 4.8 lol 
He did the same thing with my realbench score says he can help me with my openCL lol okay dude this was about temps not 2-2080ti against 1-titanXp score dork 
Passive/ aggressive d****e about sums it up.


----------



## Section31

CAL V said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen the prices on aliexpress/taobao too. Aliexpress shipping is per item and adds up. I got credit card fraud from aliexpress so i am wary of buying from them. I would only pay with wechat pay/alipay there at this point.
> 
> Problem with taobao is you cant ship internationally and payment method. Only works if you have friends and family in china/hong kong who have wechat pay/alipay (common usage there). Not everyone has that option.
> 
> 
> 
> I see, that's terrible, I should be more cautious when paying with my visa/mastercard next time.
> 
> Not sure if such services is available at your place, they are basically forwarder for parcels from China. They have a warehouse that collects all the parcels in China (mostly in GuangZhou), pack them into one bag or repackage them upon request and ship them in one go. Shipping within China is rather cheap. These services are abundant in Asia (where I live), even Taobao themselves offer these kind of service but with lesser flexibility.
> 
> Only caveat is dealing with warranty and returns, so I only buy low value items or basically deem there's no warranty, the hassle is not worth it unless the forwarder can help to ship it back.
Click to expand...

That is good alternative. However i don’t need an forwarder. I have access to local china address (mother in law) or i can ask family friends and my own friends in hong kong. I can also use my parents flat address in hk if i need to (and either them or me pickup when we go to hk). That’s one way to get around import taxes but you waste luggage space and your tax free quota.

Canadian also do that with usa orders but not doing atm. Send to po box or friends there and again you or friend bring up. Therefore lower shipping and you have some tax free quota to use. Reduced taxes and duty (if applicable). When i bought the last couple caselabs and water parts order thats what i did, ship to friend in us and they brought up. Did have to repay them for it.

That was my plan for the optimus orders i had and was planning in the future but with way thing are now, not an option. That and its not worth risking friends health over these matters. 

Even Hong Kong option is questionable, i really don’t know when i will be able to travel there. I usually go there every year with an stop over/side trip to tokyo for sushi dai. Local cathay tickets were cheap as they had fanfare deals every tues in the past - so could travel to tokyo for less than 1700hkd and bangkok was like 800hkd or less. Issue is air fare and the self quarantine of 14days. It’s going to be really hard and expensive to get tickets back there with all the pent up demands and how long it will take airlines to get back to 100% operations


----------



## JustinThyme

Damn, now you guys are off to name calling? 
Just so you know you can live in your little love affair all you want patting one another on the back for utter failure.

This was about testing blocks out of box and you failed the second you took out a die grinder. All you are worried about is Oooooh mine is better than yours yet you temps were worse in every single test. Then you call foul because I have more rads, I yank it all out of the case on one rad and you cry foul saying I’ve got better ambients. 

Worst part is? None of this has a thing to do with anything you are sissy boy crying about. Good god man, get off your mommy’s teet and out of her basement/attic!! 

All you two have to do now in any of these threads is bashing me? I feel honored! What this shows anyone with an IQ above 20 is that when a reasonable argument or debate cannot be made those who didn’t get their participation ribbon start crying. I’m over here laughing my a$$ off at you two. 

So go on with your pseudo wanna be conversations, now two on my block lists. And Thrash, I’m not going to share the disdain that BOTH reps had to say about someone hacking up their blocks. Especially when you were handed Both the Sig V2 and Magnitude with several tops for free. Couldn’t even keep on track to complete what was asked of you. Utter fail!

Good luck to you both. Maybe you should search each other out and set up a date or something?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah you can go troll highroller now that you have your 7900x hooked back up he also likes cpu-z 
I'm not caring what you do or say anymore
But you actually got one thing right *it was about testing blocks* but that's where it ends now you leave reality and enter you childish nonsense.


----------



## pmc25

CAL V said:


> I see, that's terrible, I should be more cautious when paying with my visa/mastercard next time.


I doubt this if it was recent.

There haven't been any (known) breaches at Ali in about 3 years, and their security is generally considered to be pretty much best in class these days.

All payment processing is handled by them. Individual stores never get any information.

You also don't have to store your payment information with them (some marketplaces or e-tailers force this - they don't). You can also use Paypal.

Sidenote: this is probably now the worst thread on the whole of Overclock forums.


----------



## pmc25

mgoldb2 said:


> Fair enough.
> 
> Right now got my Threadripper build running in basement on a Bykski CPU-RYZEN-X-MK CPU. It was cheapest option and wanted to at least test everything out while am waiting for Optimus. I still would not want to stress it to much with the Bykski or use it as my prime computer with it inside. It worked ok for installing windows and some stress testing with no overclocking


Those Bykski blocks are very good. You're not going to damage your system on that block (or anything else) by 'stressing' it.

For Ryzen, I'd say they're top 3. For TR, they're still good, and an unmatched budget option.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Alibaba express is anything but express or reliable 
Past 30 days restitution is very limited if at all so long periods of time is your enemy in getting funds back

Even if you do start a dispute they will side with the fraud seller in short time.
Only one way to deal with mistakes in using them is credit card company never use a debit card that money is gone period


----------



## pmc25

All but one seller resolved any and all issues I had, either refunding or sending replacements for faulty product. One who didn't, Ali refunded me after 3 days.

Most people I know who use Ali, their only issues have been customs.


----------



## mgoldb2

pmc25 said:


> Those Bykski blocks are very good. You're not going to damage your system on that block (or anything else) by 'stressing' it.
> 
> For Ryzen, I'd say they're top 3. For TR, they're still good, and an unmatched budget option.


My language might of been a bit to strong. I am sure I could just keep using the Bykski but at this point with the amount of money I already put in the system rather spend another $100 and use a Heatkiller 4 Pro for threadripper then stick with the Bykski.

I actually went ahead and ordered the HeatKiller 4 Pro last night so if Optimus announce they shipping the threadripper blocks today you can Thank me because that would be my typical luck.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
USA we have plenty better options than some scam site like alibaba express.
Mine was just a 25.us item not a big deal but very telling to see how fast they sided with a fraud seller which was less than 24 hours after reporting to them item was not delivered as shipper says.


----------



## criskoe

It’s interesting the lengths people go through to save a few dollars. Don’t get me wrong, it’s good to be wise with your money but this reminds me a bit of people who are willing to drive a hour away to save a few dollars on fuel. 

People don’t value their time enough and It’s the one thing money cannot buy.


----------



## ciarlatano

criskoe said:


> It’s interesting the lengths people go through to save a few dollars. Don’t get me wrong, it’s good to be wise with your money but this reminds me a bit of people who are willing to drive a hour away to save a few dollars on fuel.
> 
> People don’t value their time enough and It’s the one thing money cannot buy.


It's even funnier when they use more gas to the point that it costs them more to spend less. :doh:


----------



## JustinThyme

A block in hand, whether or not its sub par, is better than no block at all.


----------



## Section31

pmc25 said:


> I doubt this if it was recent.
> 
> There haven't been any (known) breaches at Ali in about 3 years, and their security is generally considered to be pretty much best in class these days.
> 
> All payment processing is handled by them. Individual stores never get any information.
> 
> You also don't have to store your payment information with them (some marketplaces or e-tailers force this - they don't). You can also use Paypal.
> 
> Sidenote: this is probably now the worst thread on the whole of Overclock forums.


Once Optimus comes out with new stuff, people will go back on topic with relevant stuff. Till then, expect more complaining. 

There's a thread on the hardware forum side that became occupied by crazy opinions about current events that's much worse. I hope they cleaned that one up.


----------



## Section31

ciarlatano said:


> It's even funnier when they use more gas to the point that it costs them more to spend less. :doh:


Actually the savings can be quite a lot i tell you. In Canada, i would have to pay on the processing fee and the import taxes. The processing fee is the ridiculous part as its based on the value of the item. The import tax is something everyone pays so that part is not material. That's why I prefer using USPS for any US shipping but currently the pricing for them is not reasonable. Fedex is only acceptable if the difference between them and USPS is reasonable. I refuse to use UPS for any US order because of the fee they charge.

In the case of caselabs, the shipping difference between Canada and the US was 115USD vs 15USD, in terms of Canadian Dollars, thats easily an 130cad plus saving.

It's something i factor in when I do my waterparts order and generally what happens nowadays is Heatkiller/Aquacomputer stuff comes directly from Germany now. US side is not worth it cost wise i found out (Dazmode and Watercool/Aquacomputer store work out to be the same). The rest like say HWL, you order from PPCS or Amazon.com. Stuff that dazmode carries, please order from him. I even looked at ordering BP Fittings directly from Taiwan myself.

Sucks to be in Canada that's all. The Mo-ra3 I ordered was 328Cad locally. The price in europe was 253Cad Pre-Shipping. US was 220ishUSD but out of stock. Shipping was about the same. Even with the processing fee and 7% extra PST, Europe become the best option.


----------



## JustinThyme

Yeah you cannuks get the shaft UPS always screws people both ways to Canada from the US or reciprocated. Their “brokerage” fee is nearly always more than the customs fees.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah you cannuks get the shaft UPS always screws people both ways to Canada from the US or reciprocated. Their “brokerage” fee is nearly always more than the customs fees.


That and our currency value just sucks atm. I actually just finished email order with Aquacomputer myself. They still have the option of DHL just the slightly more expensive option (45 euro vs 37 euro). Still much better than the 100euro option of UPS.


----------



## JustinThyme

I just did an order with them and the UPS express was actually cheaper than the two slower options. Tried aqua tuning USA but their payment system is hosed. Then PayPal sneaks a 3.4% currency conversion surcharge on the back door and lets me know about it after the fact. Biggest thing I was after was the OCTO controller. Already have a quadro. The industrial Noctua fans won’t run on fan hubs I’ve had Corsair SP ML 120s and LL as well as QLs running no problems. They would just stall no matter what. Unplug them and they go to full bore. They didn’t like MOBO headers either. Got a few other goodies that are listed in the US but as usual, no stock.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I just did an order with them and the UPS express was actually cheaper than the two slower options. Tried aqua tuning USA but their payment system is hosed. Then PayPal sneaks a 3.4% currency conversion surcharge on the back door and lets me know about it after the fact. Biggest thing I was after was the OCTO controller. Already have a quadro. The industrial Noctua fans won’t run on fan hubs I’ve had Corsair SP ML 120s and LL as well as QLs running no problems. They would just stall no matter what. Unplug them and they go to full bore. They didn’t like MOBO headers either. Got a few other goodies that are listed in the US but as usual, no stock.


Right now we are dealing with different case per country. Good information to share for those considering ordering water parts. Yeah right now thats the case, no stock in north america so got to get from elsewhere. So not just Optimus except we do know Heatkiller, etc are still producing parts. I was after the aquacomputer ultitube. Still debating if i should get the ultitube with d5 next though but holding out for heatkiller new d5 pump also. Since the d5 next flow meter is not really useful.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Right now we are dealing with different case per country. Good information to share for those considering ordering water parts. Yeah right now thats the case, no stock in north america so got to get from elsewhere. So not just Optimus except we do know Heatkiller, etc are still producing parts. I was after the aquacomputer ultitube. Still debating if i should get the ultitube with d5 next though but holding out for heatkiller new d5 pump also. Since the d5 next flow meter is not really useful.



Had I not already blown a wad in other blocks the aquacomputer vario looks interesting where you can mount it and fine tune for your IHS curvature after it’s mounted. The EK magnitude blocks are more available in North America than on the EK site. I picked up a flat plate from a PPCs just to see if flat as sanded down to flat by others was the answer, it was not. As EK states this is for either direct die or lapped IHS. The 2066 with the standard 5P jet plate gave me the same performance as the Optimus Sig V2. This is of course all things unmodified. I’m not ready to void my warranty on the 9940X just yet nor alter water blocks from their factory configurations. I went for the best each had to offer that they said performed the best. Only thing that’s been reasonably shown is the IHS curvatures even from the same SKU can be very different. I had great results from both blocks. Multiple runs with different mounting techniques. TIM of choice is Kryonaut but run the crap out of it then let it sit for a day then run again. I’ve found on my sample IHS amd both blocks that a very thin layer of TIM works the best. On the Sig V2 the TIM pattern shows more of a rectangular spread between the corners horizontally across the the IHS where the lathe process of left alone is a circualar spread from the center out just short of all 4 corners. Both take a good bit of pressure but work better than an HK IV Pro solid copper or same nickel plated. I’ve seen some posts show acrylic tops but I’m not so sure those are the Pro versions. I’ve seen some propaganda saying 8C lower which is nowhere near close. If someone beat the HKIV pro by 8C they must had forgot to use TIM or left the mounts loose. A solid 3C is what I saw on both and both are picky on getting the mount just right with a very thin layer of TIM.


----------



## DooRules

Section31 said:


> That and our currency value just sucks atm. I actually just finished email order with Aquacomputer myself. They still have the option of DHL just the slightly more expensive option (45 euro vs 37 euro). Still much better than the 100euro option of UPS.


One simple rule of thumb is if ordering anything from the US into Canada never ever use UPS. Their brokerage fees are a total ripoff at the border. If a vendor in the US says they only use UPS I go somewhere else for the product, no exceptions.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah most I've noticed use DHL.


----------



## Shawnb99

DooRules said:


> One simple rule of thumb is if ordering anything from the US into Canada never ever use UPS. Their brokerage fees are a total ripoff at the border. If a vendor in the US says they only use UPS I go somewhere else for the product, no exceptions.



If UPS is the only option, once the order is placed and reached Customs call UPS and tell them you will clear the package yourself and have them email you the info you need. Saves you paying the fee.

I’ve had them charge me $100 brokerage fee a few times now. Just a plain rip off


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> If UPS is the only option, once the order is placed and reached Customs call UPS and tell them you will clear the package yourself and have them email you the info you need. Saves you paying the fee.
> 
> I’ve had them charge me $100 brokerage fee a few times now. Just a plain rip off


Yes they are a rip off and the only ones that do it. If it shows up to my door via the postal service and customs fees are due they either allow me to pay them by check right then or I can go down to post office later. It just seldom happens unless it’s coming from Canada.

As for the D5 next it doesn’t have a flow meter. It has an input for one and any discrepancies are the meter used. I use a D5 next as first input mounted to the bottom of HK 200mm tube res. Connect via software and disable all the displays but temp and pump speed. I get all the detailed info up on my desktop with aquasuite. D5 next is one of 3 D5 pumps I’m running. It’s feeds the inlet to to pumps in a Bitspower serial head. Get around 10L/min or 600L/hr.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Shawnb99 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If UPS is the only option, once the order is placed and reached Customs call UPS and tell them you will clear the package yourself and have them email you the info you need. Saves you paying the fee.
> 
> Iâ€™️ve had them charge me $100 brokerage fee a few times now. Just a plain rip off
> 
> 
> 
> Yes they are a rip off and the only ones that do it. If it shows up to my door via the postal service and customs fees are due they either allow me to pay them by check right then or I can go down to post office later. It just seldom happens unless itâ€™️s coming from Canada.
> 
> As for the D5 next it doesnâ€™️t have a flow meter. It has an input for one and any discrepancies are the meter used. I use a D5 next as first input mounted to the bottom of HK 200mm tube res. Connect via software and disable all the displays but temp and pump speed. I get all the detailed info up on my desktop with aquasuite. D5 next is one of 3 D5 pumps Iâ€™️m running. Itâ€™️s feeds the inlet to to pumps in a Bitspower serial head. Get around 10L/min or 600L/hr.
Click to expand...

Thats nice. I got to install the aquacomputer flow sensor in the summer.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Thats nice. I got to install the aquacomputer flow sensor in the summer.


Aquacomputer flowmeter is a great go to


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Aquacomputer flowmeter is a great go to


Likely will post pictures once I have done the external Mo-Ra3 420LT rad setup. Once the economy gets better, will make it an self enclosed external rad unit. The joke is I thought about the Mo-Ra3 back when I had the 7920X (1.5 years ago) but figured 7nm AMD would allow me to get away with dual 360mm rads and be it. I ended up going back to the Mo-Ra3 in the end lol.


----------



## JustinThyme

Ive been tossing around the idea of clearing rads out of my case but I think if it do it will be for a chiller. Not to run sub ambient but just to keep it nice and cool with no rads involved. Been down the road of sub ambient and the prep work is a PITA and there are sacrificial lambs of MOBOs along the way. Back then MOBO were cheap. Not going there with a $750 board.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Ive been tossing around the idea of clearing rads out of my case but I think if it do it will be for a chiller. Not to run sub ambient but just to keep it nice and cool with no rads involved. Been down the road of sub ambient and the prep work is a PITA and there are sacrificial lambs of MOBOs along the way. Back then MOBO were cheap. Not going there with a $750 board.


We might need chillers for 5ghz Amd 5nm and Intel 7nm.


----------



## Glerox

Anyone received his sTRX4 optimus wb by now?


----------



## Section31

Glerox said:


> Anyone received his sTRX4 optimus wb by now?


Best to contact optimus directly or wait for them to reply. Last we heard was the blocks were stuck in another factory that closed down.


----------



## farpetrad

@Optimus WC any updates on Threadripper blocks? Still stuck at the other factory?


----------



## Hale59

https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1255978245696053248

https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1255981062171189250

https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1255979722174902273

https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1255978649561346049


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> Ive been tossing around the idea of clearing rads out of my case but I think if it do it will be for a chiller. Not to run sub ambient but just to keep it nice and cool with no rads involved. Been down the road of sub ambient and the prep work is a PITA and there are sacrificial lambs of MOBOs along the way. Back then MOBO were cheap. Not going there with a $750 board.


I'm the thinking the opposite myself. Thinking of adding at least one more radiator to my case. 5 isn't enough


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> I'm the thinking the opposite myself. Thinking of adding at least one more radiator to my case. 5 isn't enough


Geez, what kind of case do you have that will fit 5 rads? Mine barely fits 2 slim rads.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> Geez, what kind of case do you have that will fit 5 rads? Mine barely fits 2 slim rads.


...


> Case Labs Magnum TH10A with Pedestal


----------



## sakete

I want to get the ultimate watercooling case one day with lots of space for hard drives too. My phanteks 719, while a nice case, doesn't have the best airflow, and while large, still feels cramped to me. Especially the rad space up top is quite limited. They really should've added a couple inches up top, and made it a couple inches wider and deeper. It's already a big case, those additions wouldn't have made it much bigger. 

So the kind of case you buy once and you never need another case ever again.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
You don't need a condominium case just a watercool mora 360 or 420


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> You don't need a condominium case just a watercool mora 360 or 420


Ha, my wife would never approve of an external rad in the office.


----------



## KedarWolf

sakete said:


> Geez, what kind of case do you have that will fit 5 rads? Mine barely fits 2 slim rads.


The below is the rad support on a Thermaltake Core X9, the case i have that was under $200 new (hard to find now though).

RADIATOR SUPPORT
Front: 
1 x 120mm or 1 x 240mm or 1 x 360mm 
1 x 140mm or 1 x 280mm
Top:
2 x 120mm or 2 x 240mm or 2 x 360mm or 2 x 480mm
2 x 140mm or 2 x 280mm or 2 x 420mm
Rear:
1 x 120mm or or 1 x 140mm
Left / Right Side:
1 x 120mm or 1 x 240mm or 1 x 360mm or 1 x 480mm
1 x 140mm or 1 x 280mm or 1 x 420mm
Bottom: 
1 x 120mm or 1 x 240mm or 1 x 360mm or 1 x 480mm
1 x 140mm or 1 x 280mm or 1 x 420mm

Edit: The left and right rads go on the side panels though I think so it reality it's effectively up to three 480's and one 360 and one 140 that'll really fit.


----------



## Hequaqua

Well I pulled the trigger on the AMD block. Acrylic+Black Aluminum Raw Copper Cold Plate.









I'm in no hurry.....love the looks of this block though.

EDIT: I'll see for myself if it cools better than my Heatkiller Pro.


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You don't need a condominium case just a watercool mora 360 or 420


I've thought of adding one of those as well. Just don't got the room.


----------



## sakete

If I get another case at some point, maybe the Thermaltake W100 or W200.


----------



## Keith Myers

My TT Core X9 case is the best I have found or used so far. I had to settle for the X5 case for the next build when the X9 disappeared. Then had to settle again with the TT Level 20 XT when the X5 disappeared. Then settled again for the Phanteks 719 when the TT Level 20 XT disappeared. Each new case being the lesser of the previous case in capability, airflow and ease of construction.


----------



## zervun

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You don't need a condominium case just a watercool mora 360 or 420


Or you can do both! Have had to do some custom fab with the 420 brackets, but it works great. Have oodles of room in the tx10

I've got a mora 420 on top w/ 200mm noctuas, 2x 560 SR2s on the top sides.

mora and one of the 560's is feeding my 3960x and Titan V, haven't decided on the other side system which will have a single rad (the other 560)

Been sitting in my living room waiting on the optimus trx4 block to arrive then finishing the build.


----------



## KedarWolf

Hequaqua said:


> Well I pulled the trigger on the AMD block. Acrylic+Black Aluminum Raw Copper Cold Plate.
> 
> View attachment 342798
> 
> 
> I'm in no hurry.....love the looks of this block though.
> 
> EDIT: I'll see for myself if it cools better than my Heatkiller Pro.


I love my AMD Foundation with my 3950x!!

CCX overclocking with 1.3v LLC2 I get under 70C while running Cinebench and this with crappy thermal paste as I ran out of Mastermaker Gel Nano.

I got three more tubes of it on the way though. 

Oh, by the way, your roll of scroll on your signature is really frustrating, especially on mobile. Might want to Spoiler a good part of it.


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> If I get another case at some point, maybe the Thermaltake W100 or W200.


Thermalfake doesn't deserve your money. It doesn't deserve anyone's




zervun said:


> Or you can do both! Have had to do some custom fab with the 420 brackets, but it works great. Have oodles of room in the tx10
> 
> I've got a mora 420 on top w/ 200mm noctuas, 2x 560 SR2s on the top sides.
> 
> mora and one of the 560's is feeding my 3960x and Titan V, haven't decided on the other side system which will have a single rad (the other 560)
> 
> Been sitting in my living room waiting on the optimus trx4 block to arrive then finishing the build.


TX10  I regret not buying one of those so damn much. I wanted one with a pedestal... the things I could of done with that. So sad.


----------



## skupples

Hale59 said:


> https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1255978245696053248
> 
> https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1255981062171189250
> 
> https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1255979722174902273
> 
> https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1255978649561346049


vApOrWaRe


----------



## Hequaqua

KedarWolf said:


> I love my AMD Foundation with my 3950x!!
> 
> CCX overclocking with 1.3v LLC2 I get under 70C while running Cinebench and this with crappy thermal paste as I ran out of Mastermaker Gel Nano.
> 
> I got three more tubes of it on the way though.
> 
> Oh, by the way, your roll of scroll on your signature is really frustrating, especially on mobile. Might want to Spoiler a good part of it.


Good to know(about the block). :thumb:

I tried the MM Gel, didn't care for it really. I'm stuck in a rut with the Nocuta N1-H1. I've been using it for years. Although when I put the gpu block on I used the gel.

I had it hide the rigs, now you have to open them, I think. Let me know...


----------



## zervun

Shawnb99 said:


> Thermalfake doesn't deserve your money. It doesn't deserve anyone's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TX10  I regret not buying one of those so damn much. I wanted one with a pedestal... the things I could of done with that. So sad.


Ya, I lucked out big time, I got their very last run of the Tx10 - it took forever (I think around 4 months). Wish I had gotten a pedestal but oh well - it has so much space as is.

I had ordered a mora3 mount for the top, which didn't come without me hounding them as they were in process of shutting down. Sadly the panel didn't fit the mora3 420 (I'm guessing it was for 360) but they were closed by then. So I made my own brackets.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> Thermalfake doesn't deserve your money. It doesn't deserve anyone's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TX10  I regret not buying one of those so damn much. I wanted one with a pedestal... the things I could of done with that. So sad.


What's wrong with Thermaltake? Bad quality?


----------



## skupples

business ethics and morality issues mostly.


----------



## zervun

sakete said:


> What's wrong with Thermaltake? Bad quality?


Have stolen/copied designs from other companies in the past, some things have sub-par quality - somewhat hit or miss quality wise depending on what you get. EK seems to be trending that route in quality on some things as well (not design copying, quality).


----------



## sakete

Well, I might be in the market for a new case in 2-3 years, I just got this Phanteks 719 a couple months ago so not going to replace that anytime soon. And once I have a new GPU I'll be done building for a few years anyway (did 5 years with my previous build), so I'll see what cases are around at that time.


----------



## Section31

I got an response from optimus lol. Also they did ship out am4 foundation blocks just not the xe nickel ones.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> sakete said:
> 
> 
> 
> If I get another case at some point, maybe the Thermaltake W100 or W200.
> 
> 
> 
> Thermalfake doesn't deserve your money. It doesn't deserve anyone's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> zervun said:
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can do both! Have had to do some custom fab with the 420 brackets, but it works great. Have oodles of room in the tx10
> 
> I've got a mora 420 on top w/ 200mm noctuas, 2x 560 SR2s on the top sides.
> 
> mora and one of the 560's is feeding my 3960x and Titan V, haven't decided on the other side system which will have a single rad (the other 560)
> 
> Been sitting in my living room waiting on the optimus trx4 block to arrive then finishing the build.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> TX10 /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif I regret not buying one of those so damn much. I wanted one with a pedestal... the things I could of done with that. So sad.
Click to expand...

I thought about reusing my caselabs s8 and put dual reservoir pump combo in it but no room. Would have moved my 3950x setup from 011xl to the s8 and then downgrade the other system to itx based ryzen 4000 apu. Sell off the 3900x system and whole project is cost neutral.

I am going to stick with simple mo-ra3 setup planned and just connect it to the 011xl through the case vertical gpu plate. Have gut feeling something is not going to work out during that swap.


----------



## zervun

Section31 said:


> I thought about reusing my caselabs s8 and put dual reservoir pump combo in it but no room. Would have moved my 3950x setup from 011xl to the s8 and then downgrade the other system to itx based ryzen 4000 apu. Sell off the 3900x system and whole project is cost neutral.
> 
> I am going to stick with simple mo-ra3 setup planned and just connect it to the 011xl through the case vertical gpu plate. Have gut feeling something is not going to work out during that swap.


Ya, mine is dual pump (not setup yet) with a optimus small res on the top next to the mora3 on top and a heatkiller + aquacomputer D5 on the inside. Design has changed a number of times so that I could still have some 5.25 drive mounts in it. I was originally going with 2x heatkiller and D5's on the inside but it basically took up all the space.

My old setup I'm still using has another mora3 external which has worked fine for years. Have a dual pump EK mounted directly to it.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hale59 said:


> https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1255978245696053248
> 
> https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1255981062171189250
> 
> https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1255979722174902273
> 
> https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1255978649561346049





skupples said:


> vApOrWaRe


Hi,
lol okay so it means they are more active on twits-R-us which I'm not a member of so thankfully can't read the links :thumb:


----------



## Kana Chan

pics from the above


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Something wrong with image uploading I'm not aware of ?


----------



## Section31

zervun said:


> Ya, mine is dual pump (not setup yet) with a optimus small res on the top next to the mora3 on top and a heatkiller + aquacomputer D5 on the inside. Design has changed a number of times so that I could still have some 5.25 drive mounts in it. I was originally going with 2x heatkiller and D5's on the inside but it basically took up all the space.
> 
> My old setup I'm still using has another mora3 external which has worked fine for years. Have a dual pump EK mounted directly to it.


I will take my time to figure out how to repurpose the caselabs back to use. Probably involves getting some custom case expansion made. That or get an custom case made -modernized version of caselabs s8 that meets my needs. That's something I won't do in current economic climate.


----------



## Hale59

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> lol okay so it means they are more active on twits-R-us which I'm not a member of so thankfully can't read the links :thumb:


"Threadripper update: big apologies for the delays and lack of updates!! This covid time has been really challenging. Right now, the brackets for the blocks are with our anodizers who got hit hard by covid. So we're waiting for them to finish the brackets then shipping starts."

"Our TR blocks use a new kind of mounting. So you know the TR torque key you get with the TR CPUs? Use that key to install our block to get the perfect 1.5nm of mounting pressure. And the flush mounts look sweet."

"Because of the TR delay madness, we're taking 15% off all preorders. And then never doing preorders again Grimacing face The delays were 50% unforeseen chaos (covid, etc), 50% finding improvements. We want to release the best."

"Once again, the biggest apologies for the delays!! We hate disappointing you guys. The TR blocks in copper start shipping as soon as we get the anodized brackets back. Nickel plates working on now. Shipping will be in phases, we'll update with more soon!! Grinning face with smiling eyes!!"


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

We're still here  

We were told by our anodizer that we'll have Threadripper brackets this week. Batches of TR cold plates are being nickel plated right now. Everything else is done. 

Covid has been a drag, it changes everything in the supply line. For example, boxes. Something you wouldn't think would be an issue, but a printer shuts down and we're scrambling. We got the boxes figured out, but everything gets screwed up. Coolant for CNCs, tooling, etc. So many little things you wouldn't think about.

As for some of the rampant speculation about us, no, we're not going anywhere  The strange part of all this covid stuff is that people are, it seems, building more PCs. So increased demand with all kinds of nonsense in the the supply chain. So life just becomes more difficult. Yay. 

As for "vaporware" and preorders, yes, the preorders have been a nightmare. It's not like we thought it'd take this long. We had AMD TR projects lined up that we had to back out of. Same with the GPU. The only good news out of all of this is, well, we've found better ways to max performance and once we've achieved the core product design, new models are vastly easier to make. 

But, like everything we do, if we think there's more performance to be had, we'd rather delay than release a good-enough product. 

*HERE ARE SOME UPGRADES:*

*ALL NEW MOUNTING: *Use your torque key that came with the Threadripper CPU to install the block. The key provides 1.5 newton meters before popping. So you can only apply 1.5nm of mounting pressure to each post. Which means no more guessing for pressure using thumb nuts or springs. The block mounting uses the same Torx 20 (T20) head as the key. Of course, you can use a regular strewdriver and get a good 20nm if you're crazy. We spent a TON of time testing this and DESTROYING mobos. It's a Zenith graveyard over here. The spec for the mounting posts is well above 1.5nm, so we're confident this mounting system is A+ for all uses. This was important to us, the conversations we had about "hey, maybe we should just do thumb nuts like everyone else because that is safe" were ongoing. But that's not the Optimus way. 


And, yes, the torque will be applied to other products as well. We've tentatively sourced 1.5nm keys to offer, though we haven't had time to do XOC with intel and am4 blocks with higher/lower torque settings. 


Mark my words, this torque design will be copied  But, hey, as long the water cooling industry advances, all good with us. 


*THREADRIPPER IHS TOPO MAP:* One of the longest parts of TR was dealing with the insane TR IHS. It's not normal, at all. And it has changed over generations, going from convex to concave and basically just a ripple in a pond, wavy from middle on out. So yeah making a block that accounts for that has been a massive pain. You'll see we use two kinds of screws on the cold plate -- bigs and smalls that help provide certain kinds of pressure in specific places. 


*JET PLATEAU DESIGN: *Interestingly, we were able to eliminate the center o-ring. Hat tip to ThrashZone for going ape on our blocks and o-rings lol. Basically, that center o-ring is another relic of bygone coolers. So we ditched it in this design. The o-ring compresses anyway, and for the other blocks, the o-ring really doesn't do that much. We've found that our blocks have excellent contact from jet plateau to the fins. The older o-ring style helps compensate for steel jet plates that wiggle or variations in injection molding. 


Moreover, we went through countless revision of the jet slot and fin design in order to make sure flow and contact was premium. 


*CRAZY FINS AND SURFACE FINISH:* Making a cold plate this big with the same size fins has been, let's just say, insane. For people who know machining, the typical response when seeing our regular cold plate is "***, how did you do this." Now, it's even more crazy. We've done lots of tweaks and improvements. If you're hyper paying attention, we've released pics of the TR cold plate in different iterations, with diff mounting and mirror areas. This is all part of this insane tweaking that was needed to make the block perfect. 


*LAPPED IHS:* Yes, we're making a "super flat" version as well. Basically, the center insert is a different shape to allow the cold plate to be flat. With TR, the only thing people will do is lap their CPUs, no delidding (well, not in any real scale). So we'll offer that from the beginning. 


*THE END RESULT:* So what does all this mean? well, the block is a beast, that's for sure. The new style construction is really awesome, imo. Installation, reliability and performance are all top of class. For performance, the thermal capacity is off the charts. As some of you guys have found, our normal block can do ~800w, this new one has a vastly larger surface area. TR is unique because the heat layout from the little city of dies, so this block really shines when going for big overclocks. Or any overclocks, because TR is anything but an easy CPU.


----------



## Hequaqua

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> We're still here
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> We were told by our anodizer that we'll have Threadripper brackets this week. Batches of TR cold plates are being nickel plated right now. Everything else is done.
> 
> Covid has been a drag, it changes everything in the supply line. For example, boxes. Something you wouldn't think would be an issue, but a printer shuts down and we're scrambling. We got the boxes figured out, but everything gets screwed up. Coolant for CNCs, tooling, etc. So many little things you wouldn't think about.
> 
> As for some of the rampant speculation about us, no, we're not going anywhere  The strange part of all this covid stuff is that people are, it seems, building more PCs. So increased demand with all kinds of nonsense in the the supply chain. So life just becomes more difficult. Yay.
> 
> As for "vaporware" and preorders, yes, the preorders have been a nightmare. It's not like we thought it'd take this long. We had AMD TR projects lined up that we had to back out of. Same with the GPU. The only good news out of all of this is, well, we've found better ways to max performance and once we've achieved the core product design, new models are vastly easier to make.
> 
> But, like everything we do, if we think there's more performance to be had, we'd rather delay than release a good-enough product.
> 
> *HERE ARE SOME UPGRADES:*
> 
> *ALL NEW MOUNTING: *Use your torque key that came with the Threadripper CPU to install the block. The key provides 1.5 newton meters before popping. So you can only apply 1.5nm of mounting pressure to each post. Which means no more guessing for pressure using thumb nuts or springs. The block mounting uses the same Torx 20 (T20) head as the key. Of course, you can use a regular strewdriver and get a good 20nm if you're crazy. We spent a TON of time testing this and DESTROYING mobos. It's a Zenith graveyard over here. The spec for the mounting posts is well above 1.5nm, so we're confident this mounting system is A+ for all uses. This was important to us, the conversations we had about "hey, maybe we should just do thumb nuts like everyone else because that is safe" were ongoing. But that's not the Optimus way.
> 
> 
> And, yes, the torque will be applied to other products as well. We've tentatively sourced 1.5nm keys to offer, though we haven't had time to do XOC with intel and am4 blocks with higher/lower torque settings.
> 
> 
> Mark my words, this torque design will be copied  But, hey, as long the water cooling industry advances, all good with us.
> 
> 
> *THREADRIPPER IHS TOPO MAP:* One of the longest parts of TR was dealing with the insane TR IHS. It's not normal, at all. And it has changed over generations, going from convex to concave and basically just a ripple in a pond, wavy from middle on out. So yeah making a block that accounts for that has been a massive pain. You'll see we use two kinds of screws on the cold plate -- bigs and smalls that help provide certain kinds of pressure in specific places.
> 
> 
> *JET PLATEAU DESIGN: *Interestingly, we were able to eliminate the center o-ring. Hat tip to ThrashZone for going ape on our blocks and o-rings lol. Basically, that center o-ring is another relic of bygone coolers. So we ditched it in this design. The o-ring compresses anyway, and for the other blocks, the o-ring really doesn't do that much. We've found that our blocks have excellent contact from jet plateau to the fins. The older o-ring style helps compensate for steel jet plates that wiggle or variations in injection molding.
> 
> 
> Moreover, we went through countless revision of the jet slot and fin design in order to make sure flow and contact was premium.
> 
> 
> *CRAZY FINS AND SURFACE FINISH:* Making a cold plate this big with the same size fins has been, let's just say, insane. For people who know machining, the typical response when seeing our regular cold plate is "***, how did you do this." Now, it's even more crazy. We've done lots of tweaks and improvements. If you're hyper paying attention, we've released pics of the TR cold plate in different iterations, with diff mounting and mirror areas. This is all part of this insane tweaking that was needed to make the block perfect.
> 
> 
> *LAPPED IHS:* Yes, we're making a "super flat" version as well. Basically, the center insert is a different shape to allow the cold plate to be flat. With TR, the only thing people will do is lap their CPUs, no delidding (well, not in any real scale). So we'll offer that from the beginning.
> 
> 
> *THE END RESULT:* So what does all this mean? well, the block is a beast, that's for sure. The new style construction is really awesome, imo. Installation, reliability and performance are all top of class. For performance, the thermal capacity is off the charts. As some of you guys have found, our normal block can do ~800w, this new one has a vastly larger surface area. TR is unique because the heat layout from the little city of dies, so this block really shines when going for big overclocks. Or any overclocks, because TR is anything but an easy CPU.



I ordered a AM4 Block...how long before it ships?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah no problem bud probably increased water flow too by ditching the center o-ring seeing it looks like it was reducing clearance compressing into the cooling fins and all 
I kind of like it on the ends though seeing it keeps water going the right ways along the cooling fins 

Take heatkiller 4 pro little o-rings out and it tanks the block performance big time.

Knew you guys weren't going anywhere same old drama queens will keep that crap up no matter what been that way since V2 was released and keeps going on strong unfortunately.
Pre ordering is silly anyway it's not like you guys are as big as nvidia lol


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> We're still here
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> We were told by our anodizer that we'll have Threadripper brackets this week. Batches of TR cold plates are being nickel plated right now. Everything else is done.
> 
> Covid has been a drag, it changes everything in the supply line. For example, boxes. Something you wouldn't think would be an issue, but a printer shuts down and we're scrambling. We got the boxes figured out, but everything gets screwed up. Coolant for CNCs, tooling, etc. So many little things you wouldn't think about.
> 
> As for some of the rampant speculation about us, no, we're not going anywhere  The strange part of all this covid stuff is that people are, it seems, building more PCs. So increased demand with all kinds of nonsense in the the supply chain. So life just becomes more difficult. Yay.
> 
> As for "vaporware" and preorders, yes, the preorders have been a nightmare. It's not like we thought it'd take this long. We had AMD TR projects lined up that we had to back out of. Same with the GPU. The only good news out of all of this is, well, we've found better ways to max performance and once we've achieved the core product design, new models are vastly easier to make.
> 
> But, like everything we do, if we think there's more performance to be had, we'd rather delay than release a good-enough product.
> 
> *HERE ARE SOME UPGRADES:*
> 
> *ALL NEW MOUNTING: *Use your torque key that came with the Threadripper CPU to install the block. The key provides 1.5 newton meters before popping. So you can only apply 1.5nm of mounting pressure to each post. Which means no more guessing for pressure using thumb nuts or springs. The block mounting uses the same Torx 20 (T20) head as the key. Of course, you can use a regular strewdriver and get a good 20nm if you're crazy. We spent a TON of time testing this and DESTROYING mobos. It's a Zenith graveyard over here. The spec for the mounting posts is well above 1.5nm, so we're confident this mounting system is A+ for all uses. This was important to us, the conversations we had about "hey, maybe we should just do thumb nuts like everyone else because that is safe" were ongoing. But that's not the Optimus way.
> 
> 
> And, yes, the torque will be applied to other products as well. We've tentatively sourced 1.5nm keys to offer, though we haven't had time to do XOC with intel and am4 blocks with higher/lower torque settings.
> 
> 
> Mark my words, this torque design will be copied  But, hey, as long the water cooling industry advances, all good with us.
> 
> 
> *THREADRIPPER IHS TOPO MAP:* One of the longest parts of TR was dealing with the insane TR IHS. It's not normal, at all. And it has changed over generations, going from convex to concave and basically just a ripple in a pond, wavy from middle on out. So yeah making a block that accounts for that has been a massive pain. You'll see we use two kinds of screws on the cold plate -- bigs and smalls that help provide certain kinds of pressure in specific places.
> 
> 
> *JET PLATEAU DESIGN: *Interestingly, we were able to eliminate the center o-ring. Hat tip to ThrashZone for going ape on our blocks and o-rings lol. Basically, that center o-ring is another relic of bygone coolers. So we ditched it in this design. The o-ring compresses anyway, and for the other blocks, the o-ring really doesn't do that much. We've found that our blocks have excellent contact from jet plateau to the fins. The older o-ring style helps compensate for steel jet plates that wiggle or variations in injection molding.
> 
> 
> Moreover, we went through countless revision of the jet slot and fin design in order to make sure flow and contact was premium.
> 
> 
> *CRAZY FINS AND SURFACE FINISH:* Making a cold plate this big with the same size fins has been, let's just say, insane. For people who know machining, the typical response when seeing our regular cold plate is "***, how did you do this." Now, it's even more crazy. We've done lots of tweaks and improvements. If you're hyper paying attention, we've released pics of the TR cold plate in different iterations, with diff mounting and mirror areas. This is all part of this insane tweaking that was needed to make the block perfect.
> 
> 
> *LAPPED IHS:* Yes, we're making a "super flat" version as well. Basically, the center insert is a different shape to allow the cold plate to be flat. With TR, the only thing people will do is lap their CPUs, no delidding (well, not in any real scale). So we'll offer that from the beginning.
> 
> 
> *THE END RESULT:* So what does all this mean? well, the block is a beast, that's for sure. The new style construction is really awesome, imo. Installation, reliability and performance are all top of class. For performance, the thermal capacity is off the charts. As some of you guys have found, our normal block can do ~800w, this new one has a vastly larger surface area. TR is unique because the heat layout from the little city of dies, so this block really shines when going for big overclocks. Or any overclocks, because TR is anything but an easy CPU.


Its so awesome to hear that you guys are persevering through these insane times. I know how it goes, small businesses around here have been completely wrecked, so its good to see that you found a way to keep pushing through it. Can't wait to get these new blocks in hand, its one more tool in my tool box to keep clients happy! Keep up the awesome work!


----------



## jcleary47

Looking forward to trying the Optimus Foundation for my 3700x. I placed an order on April 15th and checked today and they said estimated shipping in another 1-2 weeks but they weren't 100% sure. Glad they are able to still keep the lights on.


----------



## Mxj1

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> We're still here
> 
> *JET PLATEAU DESIGN: *Interestingly, we were able to eliminate the center o-ring. Hat tip to ThrashZone for going ape on our blocks and o-rings lol. Basically, that center o-ring is another relic of bygone coolers. So we ditched it in this design. The o-ring compresses anyway, and for the other blocks, the o-ring really doesn't do that much. We've found that our blocks have excellent contact from jet plateau to the fins. The older o-ring style helps compensate for steel jet plates that wiggle or variations in injection molding.


Do you expect to make changes to the foundation block tops to eliminate the oring from that design as well?


----------



## oreonutz

Mxj1 said:


> Do you expect to make changes to the foundation block tops to eliminate the oring from that design as well?


+1


----------



## chuggz

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> We're still here
> 
> *HERE ARE SOME UPGRADES:*


Any of these upgrades going to make their way into existing products (eg. Signature)?


----------



## Mxj1

spitfire5792 said:


> Reinstalled my AM4 foundation.
> 
> I have washers just on the backside of the board.
> 
> My process was to bring the thumb screws down to the aluminum plate. Then I went in an X pattern and tightened down maybe 2.5 turns?
> 
> Block felt snug and there is minimal deflection in the motherboard.
> 
> I think this will be perfect!


I really like my optimus foundation am4 block. I have no regrets about spending more on it than any other block.

That being said, i think their solution for mounting sucks. There's no way I would mount this block without a back plate. IMO, they should have come up with a different solution.

Here's what I did to make their parts work, _with_ a back plate. I used a spare AM4 back plate and #30 drill bit and drilled the standard threads out of the nuts. Next I tapped them to M4 x 0.7 and ran some bolts in from the back side of the plate. This left me with M4 studs to use the optimus thumb nuts on. 

They could have very easily adopted this technique to allow users to retain their back plate by including 6/32 bolts (instead of the studs and nuts on the backside), then threading the thumbnuts to 6/32 to work with the new bolts.

This would be better for the motherboard, and probably cost down their manufacturing.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> I'm the thinking the opposite myself. Thinking of adding at least one more radiator to my case. 5 isn't enough


LOL
Thought I was bad with HWL GTR 420, GTS 360, XE 48O and SE 360. I could add one more 360 in the back but that would blow my res and using all 4 SSD mounts as well as having bits power dual D5 head mounted to the same plate. I don’t think it would make any difference. I don’t pass 30C liquid temp with everything fully loaded. Was just pondering a chiller to keep liquid at ambient which stays at 22-24C. Normally 22C until I go to stress testing then I can’t regulate 22C bawlz on but can regulate 24C. If I leave climate control on 22C the heat load will run it up to 24C after 1st run then it stays there measuring at bottom inlet. 

In the middle of reassembly now. Making a few slight changes. Putting industrial Noctua fans in the bottom push only and pulling old and tired Corsair SP 120s in push pull. Changing out filter to aquacomputer that has built in valves.


----------



## zervun

JustinThyme said:


> LOL
> Thought I was bad with HWL GTR 420, GTS 360, XE 48O and SE 360. I could add one more 360 in the back but that would blow my res and using all 4 SSD mounts as well as having bits power dual D5 head mounted to the same plate. I don’t think it would make any difference. I don’t pass 30C liquid temp with everything fully loaded. Was just pondering a chiller to keep liquid at ambient which stays at 22-24C. Normally 22C until I go to stress testing then I can’t regulate 22C bawlz on but can regulate 24C. If I leave climate control on 22C the heat load will run it up to 24C after 1st run then it stays there measuring at bottom inlet.
> 
> In the middle of reassembly now. Making a few slight changes. Putting industrial Noctua fans in the bottom push only and pulling old and tired Corsair SP 120s in push pull. Changing out filter to aquacomputer that has built in valves.


Just of note - I've read a couple times that the aquacomputer filter with the built in valves has some flow restriction. I have one but am hesitant to put it on.

Note: I don't have anything to back it up other than the review from people on performance-pcs/amazon on the item and I think another forum post somewhere - some noting that the ball valve/inlet internal opening is far smaller than standard g1/4. Would love to get some clarity if this really affects things or not.


----------



## Avacado

zervun said:


> Just of note - I've read a couple times that the aquacomputer filter with the built in valves has some flow restriction. I have one but am hesitant to put it on.
> 
> Note: I don't have anything to back it up other than the review from people on performance-pcs/amazon on the item and I think another forum post somewhere - some noting that the ball valve/inlet internal opening is far smaller than standard g1/4. Would love to get some clarity if this really affects things or not.


Would be a fantastic test that you could post results on and maybe take you about what an hour if you're efficient at draining and filling your loop


----------



## Shawnb99

zervun said:


> Just of note - I've read a couple times that the aquacomputer filter with the built in valves has some flow restriction. I have one but am hesitant to put it on.
> 
> Note: I don't have anything to back it up other than the review from people on performance-pcs/amazon on the item and I think another forum post somewhere - some noting that the ball valve/inlet internal opening is far smaller than standard g1/4. Would love to get some clarity if this really affects things or not.


I would assume that one is very restrictive, just by the design of it. Not just with the inlets being smaller but it adds multiple 90 degree bends to your loop just by it's design.

You really shouldn't need to have a filter installed all the time, after the first 24-48 hours with Blitz part 2 when getting new gear is the only time you should need it.




JustinThyme said:


> In the middle of reassembly now. Making a few slight changes. Putting industrial Noctua fans in the bottom push only and pulling old and tired Corsair SP 120s in push pull. Changing out filter to aquacomputer that has built in valves.


Do you use the Aquero or any AQ monitoring gear cause the industrial Noctua's have PWM issues. I'd look into that more before buying them. I know I couldn't control more then one at a time, when connecting more then one I'd lose all PWM control.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah no problem bud probably increased water flow too by ditching the center o-ring seeing it looks like it was reducing clearance compressing into the cooling fins and all
> I kind of like it on the ends though seeing it keeps water going the right ways along the cooling fins
> 
> Take heatkiller 4 pro little o-rings out and it tanks the block performance big time.
> 
> Knew you guys weren't going anywhere same old drama queens will keep that crap up no matter what been that way since V2 was released and keeps going on strong unfortunately.
> Pre ordering is silly anyway it's not like you guys are as big as nvidia lol


but the other one was saying you tweaked too much and the "input" has no value XD




Mxj1 said:


> I really like my optimus foundation am4 block. I have no regrets about spending more on it than any other block.
> 
> That being said, i think their solution for mounting sucks. There's no way I would mount this block without a back plate. IMO, they should have come up with a different solution.
> 
> Here's what I did to make their parts work, _with_ a back plate. I used a spare AM4 back plate and #30 drill bit and drilled the standard threads out of the nuts. Next I tapped them to M4 x 0.7 and ran some bolts in from the back side of the plate. This left me with M4 studs to use the optimus thumb nuts on.
> 
> They could have very easily adopted this technique to allow users to retain their back plate by including 6/32 bolts (instead of the studs and nuts on the backside), then threading the thumbnuts to 6/32 to work with the new bolts.
> 
> This would be better for the motherboard, and probably cost down their manufacturing.


i agreed about the backplate issues... Brought in same concern earlier.. X299 an am4 dont need a backplate at all x299 have the screws amd4 just need screws that can be used on those backplates. 115x do need one..




Optimus WC said:


> *THE END RESULT:* So what does all this mean? well, the block is a beast, that's for sure. The new style construction is really awesome, imo. Installation, reliability and performance are all top of class. For performance, the thermal capacity is off the charts. As some of you guys have found, our normal block can do ~800w, this new one has a vastly larger surface area. TR is unique because the heat layout from the little city of dies, so this block really shines when going for big overclocks. Or any overclocks, because TR is anything but an easy CPU.



the benefit of ryzen is the chiplet design itself little clusters of heat vs intel/x299 when you need better cooling than a full overclocked tr3 itself..
You manage better cooling in the end.. Dissipation of watts in the end is up to your rad space/fans & ambients.. x299 still the top dog for benchmarking on watercooling gear as of now.. That and wathever intel offers on the 3xxx socket as well XD.. Trick here is how good is the transfer of the heat faster from the cpu to your loop so they can dissipate/transfer the heat out from it.

Thats why you can cool a gpu better than a cpu. The way it emanates heat is different still can use more watts than most cpus. I can cool my gpu "full block" @ low 30c's all day long while managing 300w+ loads. Cpu @ same wattage? not even close lol

But, you shouldn't worry as we had seen you dont need to worry too much on that (performance crown) you got this. XD


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> but the other one was saying you tweaked too much and the "input" has no value XD


Hi,
Yeah well tweaks tend to vary so does person by person powers of observation 
Optimus foundation I did nothing to it at all, it just freaking worked.

I never knew messing with the face/ top of a water block made it perform better 
I knew it looked better to me but wow performance changing too well man I just learned something lol :thumb:
Anything else I did was well after testing was done optimus clearly won.










But this seems to be something so outrageous to make something Look better in my eyes "it is my property now" to see the brass instead of a ek "quality control reject marks" in the nickle plating and lapped it down to the brass instead 
Or Optimum nickle not my falt they don't have a black or brass... option 

Only real problem is the ignorance in polishing process with a couple members 
There is no grinder involved or dremel 

Only sand paper and a piece of glass lol 
Plus a cheap buffing wheel on a drill with scratch out

Well all I can say is the critics need serious professional help pronto 

Last I read ek was testing no springs mount trying to find a easy way to do it without design change 
Well a $2.us 20 pack of washers does that pretty cheaply with leftovers so to ek I say you're welcome and to optimus I say I love the foundation


----------



## pmc25

zGunBLADEz said:


> Thats why you can cool a gpu better than a cpu. The way it emanates heat is different still can use more watts than most cpus. I can cool my gpu "full block" @ low 30c's all day long while managing 300w+ loads. Cpu @ same wattage? not even close lol


It's because dies are much, much bigger on GPUs of comparable power draw.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> I would assume that one is very restrictive, just by the design of it. Not just with the inlets being smaller but it adds multiple 90 degree bends to your loop just by it's design.
> 
> You really shouldn't need to have a filter installed all the time, after the first 24-48 hours with Blitz part 2 when getting new gear is the only time you should need it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you use the Aquero or any AQ monitoring gear cause the industrial Noctua's have PWM issues. I'd look into that more before buying them. I know I couldn't control more then one at a time, when connecting more then one I'd lose all PWM control.


I can confirm the valve assemblies are smaller. Whether they cause restrictions is yet to be seen. Just remember the 600L/hr flow rate, that’s what I had before. 

Yes I use aquaero everything. Yes the Noctua fans would not run PWM on a MOBO header nor a silver stone 8 fan powered splitter but they run perfectly on the aquaero Quadro or OCTO controllers. Dont understand why but it is what it is. The aquero plugs into USB or aquabus and you can plug flow and thermal into them if you want. I use one flow meter and two aquaero digital thermal probes, one as it exits the pumps and one after the last load in the loop before it gets to the 480 rad in the bottom but after the CPU and 420 in top and both GPUS. If you have good flow there’s not much of a difference in the two temps. Like 0.10C that just proved to me that once you are warmed up the temp in the loop is the same no matter where it’s measured. I’ll let you know if that filter slows anything down. Either way I’m going to use it as I’ve got enough pump power to push a soft ball through a 1000 ft of garden hose. If you are running weak pump/s you can change those. I don’t believe in screwing around and have 3 D5s. D5 Next (more aquero info and control) on bottom of HK tube 200 Res that feeds the inlet of a pair of D5s with a bitspower serial head.

Sorry for the sideways photo I’ll log on later with my laptop and change it to PNG. Don’t get what’s up with Phpbb codes and not displaying Jpeps right on thumbs. Show fine when you click into it.


----------



## farpetrad

@Optimus WC any updates on getting the TR brackets and shipping, were comping up on Friday and would love to know whats up. Would of loved to have at least gotten my res and pump by now


----------



## dwolvin

Hey Optimus, 

*Gwertheim over at Hardforum wondered:
*




OptimusWaterCooling any chance you might be interested in making something like the Swiftech Apogee Drive ii?


http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeDrive2.aspx 

I know there is alot of demand for an intergrated pump/block combo for small form factor pc's and right now there isn't much innovation in that category. 

I know of maybe a dozen cases which would be great for a product like that. 

Thanks and I hope you are all staying safe.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Hey Optimus,
> 
> *Gwertheim over at Hardforum wondered:
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OptimusWaterCooling any chance you might be interested in making something like the Swiftech Apogee Drive ii?
> 
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeDrive2.aspx
> 
> I know there is alot of demand for an intergrated pump/block combo for small form factor pc's and right now there isn't much innovation in that category.
> 
> I know of maybe a dozen cases which would be great for a product like that.
> 
> Thanks and I hope you are all staying safe.


The reason for no innovation on that front is because asetek holds the ip rights on that concept. Cooler Master tried to fight them and lose in court. Same reason why swiftech changed its AIO pump from block mounted to reservoir mounted.


----------



## skupples

looking forward to an update that actually includes something about the GPU block.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> looking forward to an update that actually includes something about the GPU block.


Aren’t we all. I think we are nearing end of crisis. It seems like wearing masks and good hygiene controls the spread. I expect business to normal pretty soon.

I hope Optimus get ahold of early PCB of the 3080TI like the other manufacturers, that GPU looks like something i want for sure.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Aren’t we all. I think we are nearing end of crisis. It seems like wearing masks and good hygiene controls the spread. I expect business to normal pretty soon.
> 
> I hope Optimus get ahold of early PCB of the 3080TI like the other manufacturers, that GPU looks like something i want for sure.



Normal is at least a year away if not longer. There will be no normal not until we have a vaccine for everyone or antibody tests and we reached heard immunity, that’s 80%.

So no this isn’t over yet.


----------



## ciarlatano

Shawnb99 said:


> Normal is at least a year away if not longer. There will be no normal not until we have a vaccine for everyone or antibody tests and we reached heard immunity, that’s 80%.
> 
> So no this isn’t over yet.


Exactly. Anyone expecting not to be wearing a mask for the next year or so is far too optimistic. Even a year for a vaccine would be incredibly fast tracked, and testing would be far more limited than normal.


----------



## sakete

ciarlatano said:


> Exactly. Anyone expecting not to be wearing a mask for the next year or so is far too optimistic. Even a year for a vaccine would be incredibly fast tracked, and testing would be far more limited than normal.


If they bring out a vaccine a year from now, I will not want to get vaccinated. That will then have been incredibly rushed and there could be a high risk for all kinds of side-effects. I believe that historically the fastest a vaccine has ever been developed was 4 years. And many vaccines took 10-15 years to develop.

Really, you don't want the development process to skimp on the testing process (clinical trials, etc.). 

We'll be in this situation for a very long time.


----------



## pmc25

sakete said:


> If they bring out a vaccine a year from now, I will not want to get vaccinated. That will then have been incredibly rushed and there could be a high risk for all kinds of side-effects. I believe that historically the fastest a vaccine has ever been developed was 4 years. And many vaccines took 10-15 years to develop.
> 
> Really, you don't want the development process to skimp on the testing process (clinical trials, etc.).
> 
> We'll be in this situation for a very long time.


You plucked that out of thin air. Flu shots are developed on a sub 12 month cycle according to what modeling shows the latest strains of virus are likely to be most widespread the in the coming NH winter, and most recent mutations.

But obviously there is more work to do here, on a novel virus, for a virus group which has had no vaccines developed previously.

There's not going to be any compulsory vaccination anyway, if a workable vaccine does show up whilst it's still needed to any great extent. 1) There won't be enough shots. 2) Logistics. 3) Likely to be counter-productive and encourage some of the most vulnerable to avoid getting the shot.


----------



## sakete

pmc25 said:


> You plucked that out of thin air. Flu shots are developed on a sub 12 month cycle according to what modeling shows the latest strains of virus are likely to be most widespread the in the coming NH winter, and most recent mutations.
> 
> But obviously there is more work to do here, on a novel virus, for a virus group which has had no vaccines developed previously.
> 
> There's not going to be any compulsory vaccination anyway, if a workable vaccine does show up whilst it's still needed to any great extent. 1) There won't be enough shots. 2) Logistics. 3) Likely to be counter-productive and encourage some of the most vulnerable to avoid getting the shot.


You're making an apples to oranges comparison. The flu vaccine isn't developed from scratch every year. It's a known entity, and scientists make an educated guess at which strain will be prevalent in a given year, and then produce a vaccine for that.

Developing a whole new vaccine from scratch for a novel virus (i.e. a completely new virus) can take years. And if it doesn't take years, it means a lot of shortcuts need to be taken, shortcuts you don't really want to be taken when it comes to healthcare.

Here is a high level overview of the vaccine development process: https://www.historyofvaccines.org/content/articles/vaccine-development-testing-and-regulation


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Most of the masks I've seen these paranoid people using are no good anyway.

I only shop where masks are only recommended and I might have one but will not wear it properly unless in a real crowd.
With all the limited population in stores that alone prevents crowds 

Wearing a mask outside is pretty stupid.


----------



## ciarlatano

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Most of the masks I've seen these paranoid people using are no good anyway.
> 
> I only shop where masks are only recommended and I might have one but will not wear it properly unless in a real crowd.
> With all the limited population in stores that alone prevents crowds
> 
> Wearing a mask outside is pretty stupid.


You can't trigger me like this, Thrash! I could write a novel around the mask wearing stupidity I see everyday. 

Outside alone???? Seriously????
While driving alone in your car???? Clean your car.....


----------



## Avacado

Preaching to the choir at this point. I give the elderly a pass, they are the only ones I don't look at with judging eyes when masked alone outside.


----------



## Jpmboy

... and who is going to wear their new gov't approved masks every flu season (where we see 30-60K deaths WHEN WE HAVE A VACCINE). The morality rates are looking the same are they not? Or every summer when 18% of all "colds" are caused by a coronavirus (the remainder are caused by other picorna viruses). The plan was to flatten the curve, not flatten the economy.


----------



## criskoe

Isnt the masks main purpose in this situation to help stop the spread from people who are possibly carrying the virus and dont know it? Not to stop you from actually getting it. Cause im pretty sure it is. Surgeons dont where masks to protect themselves when preforming surgeries. Its to protect the person on the table. Making a big deal out of being asked to wear a mask is hilarious. Only thing that is becoming more and more obvious over time is how dam self centered people are. 

To protect yourself with a mask requires a lot more . Proper PPE masks used in real situations require proper fitment procedures from a trained person to even be effective.

Ever been to a sporting event or any event for that matter. And noticed how almost everybody washes their hands after touching their dic or wiping their ass? Just splash some water on their hands for less then a second and go about their marry way, touching everything in their path. Its not paranoia, Its disgusting. This is more so the problem. People and their poor hygiene and germ etiquette and cant see past themselves.


----------



## qes27

Well, today my Threadripper is 6 months old. I ordered this water block the same week. At the time Optimus told me they expected to ship in a few weeks.

Half a year running on a fan just twiddling my thumbs waiting.

I've had less bull**** and delays pre-ordering ASIC crypto miners, and some of you will understand how damning of a statement that is.


----------



## sakete

Yeah, I think the lesson here is to never pre-order anything. That includes games as well. Only spend money when you can immediately get a product in return.


----------



## farpetrad

What is really bothering me about this whole situation is they can't even respond to anything. Have emailed them, have mentioned them here, on twitter and just silence. Last Sunday they said they would finally get the brackets and ship this past week just like all the other times they post saying they are getting ready to ship. A little public relations goes a long way in making customers happy, even if you have to post more bad news its better to say something than nothing at all and let everyone silently stew in frustration.


----------



## JustinThyme

Their lack or CS is going to kill them. Not answering emails because the excuses have run out. Nothing to say but we don’t have them. They came out like a shooting star and will fizzle our just as quickly. You either have to be in the game or give it up. Sad thing is the Chinese blocks have been out and available for months now.


----------



## sakete

Well, it's because the found a way to lower temps by another 0.01C, so back to the drawing board they went.


----------



## farpetrad

Its a shame, if you even wanted to try to get a refund you couldn't since they won't respond and will leave you with the only course of action being filing a fraud charge against them. I'm happy with my Heatkiller IV Trpro block so can be patient and wait but I really would of loved to have the reservoir pump combo from them, would of made the waiting for the block a little less painful.


----------



## Jpmboy

could be they are in lock down in a state where the governor is calling up the guard.


----------



## Section31

farpetrad said:


> Its a shame, if you even wanted to try to get a refund you couldn't since they won't respond and will leave you with the only course of action being filing a fraud charge against them. I'm happy with my Heatkiller IV Trpro block so can be patient and wait but I really would of loved to have the reservoir pump combo from them, would of made the waiting for the block a little less painful.


In regards to that, someone who ordered after me actually received the cpu block and reservoir combo too. Its beautiful looking. 

I was thinking about getting one but really cannot justify some of there items in current economy. 260usd for an reservoir that solely function as aesthetic thing and there fittings (12usd per). Hopefully the economy improves by then that i can reconsider them for non-blocks.

Its just an ugly economy, all my 2022 plans are effected at some level. I normally wouldn’t consider downgrade at all but the latest ryzen desktop 4000 apu (its literally an 4800u), now i don’t mind selling an 3900x and 5700xt (too much unneeded power for an office pc) and cash in the rest for the 2022 or 3080ti project


----------



## farpetrad

Jpmboy said:


> could be they are in lock down in a state where the governor is calling up the guard.


Well then perhaps they shouldn't have posted themselves that things would be shipping in Feb, then March, then April multiple times. Each time they post they are going to ship and it doesn't happen just makes them look worse and worse. The fact that they can't answer email, here, twitter or anywhere else just shows they don't care about their customer base. They don't have time to answer anyone but they sure have time to tweet out some special they are doing with newegg.


----------



## Jpmboy

sarcasm. If they have your money, be bummed. If they are not selling an item you want right now, buy something else. easy.


----------



## zervun

farpetrad said:


> What is really bothering me about this whole situation is they can't even respond to anything. Have emailed them, have mentioned them here, on twitter and just silence. Last Sunday they said they would finally get the brackets and ship this past week just like all the other times they post saying they are getting ready to ship. A little public relations goes a long way in making customers happy, even if you have to post more bad news its better to say something than nothing at all and let everyone silently stew in frustration.


It is definitely frustrating and I agree. Even a crappy response is better than the black hole. I had emailed them on 4/19 asking about hole spacing on the bottom of the res (as I need to drill holes through a plate) of which I have already bought 2 of the res's and never got a response. Other emails I have sent have taken a week or two if they have responded at all.

The quality of the stuff I have gotten from them has been top-notch, but the communication is puzzling to say the least. Obviously Covid has caused issues which is totally understandable from a production perspective - however, you wouldn't think it should affect communication very much. I really want them to succeed and hope they pull through this.


----------



## JustinThyme

zervun said:


> It is definitely frustrating and I agree. Even a crappy response is better than the black hole. I had emailed them on 4/19 asking about hole spacing on the bottom of the res (as I need to drill holes through a plate) of which I have already bought 2 of the res's and never got a response. Other emails I have sent have taken a week or two if they have responded at all.
> 
> The quality of the stuff I have gotten from them has been top-notch, but the communication is puzzling to say the least. Obviously Covid has caused issues which is totally understandable from a production perspective - however, you wouldn't think it should affect communication very much. I really want them to succeed and hope they pull through this.



I agree the products are well made. A Bentley is also well made but when you drop the cash even on a special order it’s 6-8 weeks for delivery. There’s been folks waiting 6 months. If you can’t deliver in a reasonable amount of time then the product should be listed as coming soon maybe but don’t take orders. 

Even the few retailers aren’t getting stock. PPCs has limited stock on 3 foundation variants on 3 pages of listings. The rest are either out of stock or listed with a price but not for sale as they have gotten any. 

If COVID has you shut down then come on here or at least a banner on the web page saying so. All they have is the shipping times are delayed by 1-2 weeks because of their partners. 

The GPU blocks are still preorder. As are TR blocks 
Some of the other stuff shows available but I’m not so trusting on that either. 

They need to keep a presence and at least post up or answer emails. 
How can you trust a 10 year warranty on a Part you never get and no answers to communications. Answering emails is a top priority for any business. I actually used there contact us, unanswered, direct email, unanswered. 
PM here is what was finally answered just to get the Springless mount and that took some time. 

It’s a shame because the products I’ve gotten are good but I can’t recommend them to someone so they get chapped at me for sending them down a bottomless rabbit hole.


----------



## skupples

Section31 said:


> Aren’t we all. I think we are nearing end of crisis. It seems like wearing masks and good hygiene controls the spread. I expect business to normal pretty soon.
> 
> I hope Optimus get ahold of early PCB of the 3080TI like the other manufacturers, that GPU looks like something i want for sure.


summer usually helps kill of flu season as well.

its all good. 3080ti is delayed and I need to save that money for a house anyways. 

I need to find a micro-psu to power my aquaero so my pumps are always on. not quite sure how that's gonna work yet.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Arenâ€™️t we all. I think we are nearing end of crisis. It seems like wearing masks and good hygiene controls the spread. I expect business to normal pretty soon.
> 
> I hope Optimus get ahold of early PCB of the 3080TI like the other manufacturers, that GPU looks like something i want for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> summer usually helps kill of flu season as well.
> 
> its all good. 3080ti is delayed and I need to save that money for a house anyways.
> 
> I need to find a micro-psu to power my aquaero so my pumps are always on. not quite sure how that's gonna work yet.
Click to expand...

Interesting what you find. I ended up getting an seasonic focus gm (stock running out and prices of psu jumping here) so got best deal psu possible and is good psu.

Definitely need that external rad though, water temps were hitting 40 thats means the room temps must have been 29-30dregrees. No major effect on cpu and water loop temps thankfully.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep mora just got another one lol cleaning now not enough fluid to use it yet 14th more mods coolant on the way they actually ran out so could only get 3 liters and needed 4 minimum for both rigs so I'll have to order more in a week of two to have a universal coolant finally since x1 clear didn't work out as one turned x99 green, a known issue with hardware labs radiators x299 stayed clear :/

360LT black this time for x99 system I'm tired of seeing 32c water temp.


----------



## Cloudforever

skupples said:


> summer usually helps kill of flu season as well.
> 
> its all good. 3080ti is delayed and I need to save that money for a house anyways.
> 
> I need to find a micro-psu to power my aquaero so my pumps are always on. not quite sure how that's gonna work yet.


there's a little 20 or 24 pin loopback you can purchase for the PSU if you absolutely need that much to power on the unit.

Or see how many amps / volts it needs and see if you can just use a little wall plug to USB-C, i power my raspberry pi 4 with one and an add on to turn it on / off. its really nice. might be an option for you to run the pump


----------



## skupples

thanks for the idea - 

yep. I'd really like to have a way to keep my pumps running, so my PC can sleep when i'm out of town.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
You'd still need a battery backup if power goes out.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep mora just got another one lol cleaning now not enough fluid to use it yet 14th more mods coolant on the way they actually ran out so could only get 3 liters and needed 4 minimum for both rigs so I'll have to order more in a week of two to have a universal coolant finally since x1 clear didn't work out as one turned x99 green, a known issue with hardware labs radiators x299 stayed clear :/
> 
> 360LT black this time for x99 system I'm tired of seeing 32c water temp.


Good to know. I have been looking at getting replacement for Mayhem for my next build. Would be nice to get the d5 next flow meter. That temperature sensor through really has come in handy (as inaccurate at is is). So much to figure out. The temptation of that rumored Ryzen 4000 APU (8core/16threads with IGP (Vega but maybe Navi i hope) and downgrading an office pc (doesn't really need my leftover 3900X/5700XT) for some extra cash for 3080TI upgrade and 2022 Intel Meteor Lake/AMD 5000 Upgrade.


----------



## Section31

These are the times. Since xe-nickel seems to be the hold up, got one of the blocks to ship out now by switching to copper. Both blocks are for my friends (one doesn’t care about copper/nickel). 

Worked out another deal you with the friend who needs nickel. if his xe-nickel doesn’t arrive in time for his build, i will swap him the nickel cold plate from one of the blocks i hold right now. I will just take his xe nickel block whenever it comes in. That second build isn’t scheduled till later in summer.


----------



## chuggz

zervun said:


> I had emailed them on 4/19 asking about hole spacing on the bottom of the res (as I need to drill holes through a plate) of which I have already bought 2 of the res's and never got a response.


I actually asked the same a while back (thanks Thermaltake Core). Here's what I got: 'Our whole pump bottom is 3"x3" with the screws inset 3/8".' I probably won't be drilling until I get it, or maybe I'll even just mount it on double sided foam tape for even more sound isolation.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> thanks for the idea -
> 
> yep. I'd really like to have a way to keep my pumps running, so my PC can sleep when i'm out of town.


Why not turn if off then?

Just go dual PSU's. You got a caselabs case don't ya? Don't all of them have dual PSU mounts?

Speaking of that idea, how much of a PSU would one need to power say 4 pumps, 30-40 or so fans, or even double that amount?


----------



## zervun

chuggz said:


> I actually asked the same a while back (thanks Thermaltake Core). Here's what I got: 'Our whole pump bottom is 3"x3" with the screws inset 3/8".' I probably won't be drilling until I get it, or maybe I'll even just mount it on double sided foam tape for even more sound isolation.


Thanks - actually not a bad idea with the foam - I did get some non-sticky sound foam between it and the plate I am mounting them on.


----------



## Anthony N

Don't expect a response from these people if you place an order... Took mine and many others orders and never fulfilled them and refuses to respond to several email ,twitter, Facebook, forums.... BEWARE


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You'd still need a battery backup if power goes out.


well duh. 

I do have a couple of these little 1500PFCLCDs


----------



## Section31

Anthony N said:


> Don't expect a response from these people if you place an order... Took mine and many others orders and never fulfilled them and refuses to respond to several email ,twitter, Facebook, forums.... BEWARE


Not sure who you emailed but some of us got responses. We emailed employees directly. Albeit slow.


----------



## Q__

Section31 - I think most of us only have the default address for them, from the website as our entry point into support. They don't have a listed address or phone #. They have social feeds on many forums and discord servers but all are inactive since their last tweet first week of May. You and others may be the lucky few who have direct emails. Hails on many social feeds (twitter, discord, linkedIn) all go un-answered as Anthony noted.


----------



## Section31

Q__ said:


> Section31 - I think most of us only have the default address for them, from the website as our entry point into support. They don't have a listed address or phone #. They have social feeds on many forums and discord servers but all are inactive since their last tweet first week of May. You and others may be the lucky few who have direct emails. Hails on many social feeds (twitter, discord, linkedIn) all go un-answered as Anthony noted.


The optimus rep here name is josh i think. It was posted earlier in one of the posts here. I dealt with someone else.

I talked with someone else who dealt with josh and he got his order and 10% off too. The email was posted here too i remember.


----------



## Keith Myers

I got shipping notification today that my copper/black satin Threadripper block shipped. Finally. Ordered at the tail end of December.


----------



## farpetrad

Keith Myers said:


> I got shipping notification today that my copper/black satin Threadripper block shipped. Finally. Ordered at the tail end of December.


Did they also give you the partial refund they said they would be giving out for all the delays?


----------



## Keith Myers

farpetrad said:


> Did they also give you the partial refund they said they would be giving out for all the delays?


No, no sign of any partial refund yet. Just got a simple email from Optimus that a shipment was on its way for the order and the USPS tracking number.


----------



## Q__

yeah TR blocks supposedly started shipping today based on new twitter post. Lots of folks still without their AM4's and reservoir's so hope that stuff start moving as well.


----------



## Section31

Q__ said:


> yeah TR blocks supposedly started shipping today based on new twitter post. Lots of folks still without their AM4's and reservoir's so hope that stuff start moving as well.


Email them. Will send you the email through PM. If its Xe-Nickel, they don't have XE-Nickel cold plates thats why. That's why mine is delayed. My Copper with Black Aluminum shipped out yesterday. Even added some of there soft tube fittings. I had to throw out another BP Soft Tube Compression (Matte Black) because its lid got stuck again while in storage. I could fix it using the wrench but its going to further strip away the color (it looks likes i must have done it on that particular fitting in the past).


----------



## farpetrad

I ordered a copper and black satin as well as the reservoir and have heard nothing from them. I've emailed them multiple times and am beyond pissed off that they can't respond. Great for those of you getting yours but if they are screwing those of us that also ordered reservoirs at the same time and making us wait longer for both to be ready then I think its time to file a fraud charge against them and get my money back.


----------



## Q__

Thanks for the assist - I sent them email. All my stuff is Copper / Aluminum finish. I think the issue is the reservoirs are anodized and I recall reading that, that process was performed by a 3rd party. So, we'll have to see on the response.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep nickle is the problem that and Chicago politicians holding everyone up from working.

Probably should move to high ground in Texas


----------



## Section31

farpetrad said:


> I ordered a copper and black satin as well as the reservoir and have heard nothing from them. I've emailed them multiple times and am beyond pissed off that they can't respond. Great for those of you getting yours but if they are screwing those of us that also ordered reservoirs at the same time and making us wait longer for both to be ready then I think its time to file a fraud charge against them and get my money back.


Did you not trying e-mailing the contacts i gave you before. Or did you email [email protected]


----------



## skupples

I emailed them about the missing back plate in my SigV2 the day I got the block... still nothing.

luckily it sounds like it'll mate with EK's plate. and EK's plate is metal soooo


----------



## 98S4

farpetrad said:


> I ordered a copper and black satin as well as the reservoir and have heard nothing from them. I've emailed them multiple times and am beyond pissed off that they can't respond. Great for those of you getting yours but if they are screwing those of us that also ordered reservoirs at the same time and making us wait longer for both to be ready then I think its time to file a fraud charge against them and get my money back.


I'm going to bet money you never spoke to them about shipping the order as items become available. I had a similar order and after 1 email they split the order at no cost.... 
@OptimusWC The updates have been that after the TR blocks the GPU's would be next on line. Any updates?


----------



## farpetrad

98S4 said:


> I'm going to bet money you never spoke to them about shipping the order as items become available. I had a similar order and after 1 email they split the order at no cost....
> 
> @OptimusWC The updates have been that after the TR blocks the GPU's would be next on line. Any updates?


I actually emailed multiple times about this and have had no response, this is why I'm pissed off. If they were BBB accredited I would of filed a complaint by now.


----------



## JustinThyme

Jpmboy said:


> this is not [email protected] Boinc is different in my experience. More of a post-doc vs 1st year grad student thing. Musta been a pretty bad experience for ya tho considering the "Susquehanna hats" response.


Yeah I was a bit chapped. I’ll read up on Bionic and make a decision. I have a 10 core and 4 core sitting doing nothing but collecting dust and a 14 core in the middle of a rebuild. Just gotta switch out fans on bottom rad and finish up tubing. Went from sitting around with my thumb up my butt (maybe that’s the cause of the discomfort) to busier than a one armed paper hanger at the flip of a switch. All the data centers I do work in have to keep records of maintenance and the powers that be decided COVID-19 is not an excuse. There’s a regulatory commission on all financial data centers and there a ton in this area. A few got surprise audits and failed. Was just down in Philly today at the US mint. They had been shut down but still no excuse. They have to have records. Same last week at two fed reserve locations and Homeland security. Some time in the next week or so I have to go to an undisclosed location south of here to the second NSA watch everything you do site. The first one is out west in Utah. Amazing the size of those places and the UPS power backing them up. 42 Megawatts each. One is hidden on an old base and the other just looks like one of the massive amazon distribution centers several million square feet up in the middle of an industrial park but sticks out like a sore thumb with the razor wire fence and armed patrols constantly moving around the perimeter. Oh that’s just another distribution warehouse....yeah right. Some of the places I go...... NOAA with their massive crays is the most impressive. We sit here and bicker over PSUs when one machine is being backed up by 1.6 Megawatts and 80% loaded with another in an ISO redundant sitting there idling and charging batteries in the event the other one craps. Parallel makes more sense to me but some engineer are hung up on that design. Kills efficiency on second machine that’s just charging batteries with no load. I’m booked solid through Saturday and at this point most of the week next week so not getting to do as much as I’d like. Tired after 12 hour work days and 1-2 hours driving each way. Only good part is most of the driving is on highways that are normally dead stop at rush hour and ATM have few people on the road. Got pulled the other night in my way back from a Bank of New York at like 1AM. Not doing anything wrong, that 8PM to 5AM curfew. I Have a stack of permits covering the north east to be out and about 24x7. Enough rambling before I cross the Susquehanna River again.


----------



## skupples

98S4 said:


> I'm going to bet money you never spoke to them about shipping the order as items become available. I had a similar order and after 1 email they split the order at no cost....
> 
> @OptimusWC The updates have been that after the TR blocks the GPU's would be next on line. Any updates?


again - hard to speak to them when they're generally unresponsive.


----------



## D-EJ915

skupples said:


> I emailed them about the missing back plate in my SigV2 the day I got the block... still nothing.
> 
> luckily it sounds like it'll mate with EK's plate. and EK's plate is metal soooo


Huh just looked and Sig does say it comes with a backplate, wonder why the foundation doesn't.

Got my 2nd foundation today, has a plus static cling on the bottom and square on on the top now I guess to prevent the random bits I had in my first one from getting in which seems nice. Ordered acrylic/copper/black this time since it's for my test bench and I remember saying they had nickel backlog problems lol. Ordered on the 4th and it shipped on the 8th which seems consistent with my order from january.


----------



## JustinThyme

D-EJ915 said:


> Huh just looked and Sig does say it comes with a backplate, wonder why the foundation doesn't.
> 
> Got my 2nd foundation today, has a plus static cling on the bottom and square on on the top now I guess to prevent the random bits I had in my first one from getting in which seems nice. Ordered acrylic/copper/black this time since it's for my test bench and I remember saying they had nickel backlog problems lol. Ordered on the 4th and it shipped on the 8th which seems consistent with my order from january.


If anything I would think it would be the other way around on back plates. Trust me when I say you don’t want this garbage anyhow. Composite at best, most likely injection molded plastic. Extremely easy to flex. Let me put it this way.....If I needed a back plate I’d first send them a message asking why they sent me this POS skimpy back plate to hold this heavy block and would have proceed to buy a different one but seeing how I have a very nice Heat Killer backplate that’s rigid stainless and was all of like $9 I’d use that. Not too keen on anything held it place by two pieces of double sided tape that would be a PITA to get off with the tape probably holding up better than the back plate. SNAP!


----------



## skupples

^^ my having an existing EK plate is the only reason I haven't put effort into getting the plastic one. 

not sure what good a plastic back plate would do, I assume at least the screw holes are metal?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
These blocks don't tighten so much that the materials of the back plate matter all that much 

The two pads on the center part take care of any flex I haven't really looked at it much whether it's plastic or aluminum mold I don't know.

Whether you think metal of some sort is better it's also more conductive so I'd tend to prefer a material less conductive as possible.


----------



## skupples

eh... i prefer rigidity, but it probably doesn't matter. in fact, i bet OPTIMUS would try to argue the flexibility is intentional, because its required for the PERFECT mate... so if that's true, gimme the damn back plate!

also, typically you use a rubber insert between a SS plate & mobo.

btw - based on the state of my block when I got it, I'd be sure everyone cleans the ever mother loving hell outta' their stuff before throwing it in the loop. machine oil, bits, n grit. n ***** everywhere.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Indeed 
Optimus last I read adjusted there tightening spec's too in the hardware so it can't be over tightened 
Read about the gigabyte mother board graveyard lol but that was a amd thang not intel.

Yes I clean all new blocks even ek's/ watercools/...


----------



## skupples

people were over-tightening and murdering their boards? 

good god why does common sense go straight out the window when people are playing with expensive toys? 

"is it too tight?" idk, does it seem too tight? Why do people think it needs 5,000 tons of newton force between block and & chip? It's not a cannabis press. it's a waterblock.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> people were over-tightening and murdering their boards?
> 
> good god why does common sense go straight out the window when people are playing with expensive toys?
> 
> "is it too tight?" idk, does it seem too tight? Why do people think it needs 5,000 tons of newton force between block and & chip? It's not a cannabis press. it's a waterblock.


Hi,
Not sure how you mount a block dude 
I usually set the chip on the block and see how it fits first 

If it doesn't fit well like that, it will usually never fit well no matter how much you tighten it down
Pretty much why sigV2 didn't work well and neither did ek mag both had too much bow
But foundation fit like a glove so go figure.


----------



## skupples

we're not talking about me.

we're talking about people dumb enough to break their motherboards from excess tension/pressure.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> we're not talking about me.
> 
> we're talking about people dumb enough to break their motherboards from excess tension/pressure.


Hi,
That was optimus themselves breaking mother boards testing tension on cheap gigabyte boards 
Even ek uses cheap gigabyte boards guess because they are cheap and disposable.


----------



## Triffid

Given the high resistance of these blocks, along with 2x GTS 560s (way higher resistance than other rads) do you think one D5 pump will be enough? 

1x foundation intel block
1x GPU block (yet unknown)
2x 560 GTS radiators
1x aquacomputer flow sensor


----------



## ThrashZone

Triffid said:


> Given the high resistance of these blocks, along with 2x GTS 560s (way higher resistance than other rads) do you think one D5 pump will be enough?
> 
> 1x foundation intel block
> 1x GPU block (yet unknown)
> 2x 560 GTS radiators
> 1x aquacomputer flow sensor


Hi,
Optimus has already stated they are doing away with the narrow center o-ring so just remove it and no more restriction.


----------



## criskoe

Triffid said:


> Given the high resistance of these blocks, along with 2x GTS 560s (way higher resistance than other rads) do you think one D5 pump will be enough?
> 
> 1x foundation intel block
> 1x GPU block (yet unknown)
> 2x 560 GTS radiators
> 1x aquacomputer flow sensor


I saw a post on reddit yesterday someone asking the same question. He was concerned about his flow and was asking for advice. He had 3x GTS 360s. 1 Optimus cpu block, one gpu block, a bunch of 90s and 1X D5 and his max flow according to his AC high flow was 140LPH.

It was some time yesterday on the r/watercooling subreddit if you care to dig up his post.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
GTS rads are the most restriction block is nothing.


----------



## skupples

criskoe said:


> I saw a post on reddit yesterday someone asking the same question. He was concerned about his flow and was asking for advice. He had 3x GTS 360s. 1 Optimus cpu block, one gpu block, a bunch of 90s and 1X D5 and his max flow according to his AC high flow was 140LPH.
> 
> It was some time yesterday on the r/watercooling subreddit if you care to dig up his post.


and they probably had 90s or Ts directly off of their pump. 

guh .5gpm


----------



## criskoe

skupples said:


> and they probably had 90s or Ts directly off of their pump.
> 
> guh .5gpm


The funny thing is the thread quickly turned into arguing that you don’t need anything over 60LPH. Lol. It was getting out of control fast. Down votes and name calling. Hahahaha.


----------



## Shawnb99

criskoe said:


> The funny thing is the thread quickly turned into arguing that you don’t need anything over 60LPH. Lol. It was getting out of control fast. Down votes and name calling. Hahahaha.



***? 60LPH = 0.2641721 GPM

That’s worst then the half of the lowest flow rate you should hope for. 

So many stupid people who talk as if they know it all.

Found the thread, called them all idiots lol


----------



## Triffid

Thanks for the replies!
Im not going to have any 90 degree bends. Only a T piece to add a drain valve: 










What would you guys do, go with one D5 or plan for two? 
In Australia shipping times from o/s aren't good and i'd hate to get insufficient flow only to have to wait a month or two, then again it'd be great to avoid added complexity and spending another $200 or so...

Also, how often would one have to replace the o-ring on the CPU block?


----------



## Shawnb99

Triffid said:


> Thanks for the replies!
> Im not going to have any 90 degree bends. Only a T piece to add a drain valve:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would you guys do, go with one D5 or plan for two?
> In Australia shipping times from o/s aren't good and i'd hate to get insufficient flow only to have to wait a month or two, then again it'd be great to avoid added complexity and spending another $200 or so...
> 
> Also, how often would one have to replace the o-ring on the CPU block?



I’d go for two. I’d always go for at least 2 pumps. Not just for the extras flow but for the redundancy


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Only deal with a T fitting is flow should go straight through it end to end and the drain on the center leg otherwise don't use one.


----------



## skupples

criskoe said:


> The funny thing is the thread quickly turned into arguing that you don’t need anything over 60LPH. Lol. It was getting out of control fast. Down votes and name calling. Hahahaha.


that's just obscene. the bottom of the rung should be .5GPM.

no arguments needed. just Martin's liquid lab, and many other websites proving this time and time again. .5-1gpm are where the biggest gains are seen, n it typically falls off a cliff above that.

i never understand debating something you can test, screenshot, & post. I assume most of the people saying this are using garbage CLC & experiencing sunk cost fallacy. 

kinda like "I play Single player games, so 60FPS is fine for me" sure. keep yourself in that prison.


----------



## Triffid

Shawnb99 said:


> I’d go for two. I’d always go for at least 2 pumps. Not just for the extras flow but for the redundancy


Im thinking then do i have enough internal USB ports for control? 1 for AC octofan, 1 for pump... I could avoid by just going with 2x SR2 rads. Very low restriction and i do want low rpm fans. Geez the price difference
I should make another thread instead of hijacking this one. 



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Only deal with a T fitting is flow should go straight through it end to end and the drain on the center leg otherwise don't use one.


Yep. Thankfully at least that is obvious to me.

Appreciate the help


----------



## ThrashZone

Triffid said:


> Im thinking then do i have enough internal USB ports for control? 1 for AC octofan, 1 for pump...
> I should make another thread instead of hijacking this one.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. Thankfully at least that is obvious to me.
> 
> Appreciate the help


Hi,
Good many people ask why their d5 makes noise and it's always because they use T fittings on either outlet or inlet of the pump and sometimes even both :doh:

Doesn't matter someday optimus will make a dual d5 housing 
Some others like ek do and alphacool offer some plexi dual d5 bases.
They do give head pressure going through gts rads you'll need some.


----------



## Triffid

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Good many people ask why their d5 makes noise and it's always because they use T fittings on either outlet or inlet of the pump and sometimes even both :doh:
> 
> Doesn't matter someday optimus will make a dual d5 housing
> Some others like ek do and alphacool offer some plexi dual d5 bases.
> They do give head pressure going through gts rads you'll need some.


Man this water thing is complicated vs a big dumb block of metal and a fan. More planning to do. It's late here, i'll make a new thread tomorrow. 
Again, thanks for the advice! :thumb:


----------



## ThrashZone

Triffid said:


> Man this water thing is complicated vs a big dumb block of metal and a fan. More planning to do. It's late here, i'll make a new thread tomorrow.
> Again, thanks for the advice! :thumb:


Hi,
Okay I'll post an example of what not to do that popped up recently doing a T the wrong way for a drain 
Here it is


----------



## Shawnb99

Triffid said:


> Im thinking then do i have enough internal USB ports for control? 1 for AC octofan, 1 for pump... I could avoid by just going with 2x SR2 rads. Very low restriction and i do want low rpm fans. Geez the price difference
> I should make another thread instead of hijacking this one.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. Thankfully at least that is obvious to me.
> 
> Appreciate the help


Not enough USB ports get a USB hub. Best one I'd recommend if the Hubby7 from AQ. They also have the best fan splitters and controller as well. Really most of what they sell if among the best if a bit





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Good many people ask why their d5 makes noise and it's always because they use T fittings on either outlet or inlet of the pump and sometimes even both :doh:
> 
> Doesn't matter someday optimus will make a dual d5 housing
> Some others like ek do and alphacool offer some plexi dual d5 bases.
> They do give head pressure going through gts rads you'll need some.


Really should only have a barb connect to the pump, anything else and it causes to much vibration. I've even seen cases of it damaging the pump because of it. Not sure if that's true of the D5's as I've never used one without a dual top but I know the MCP35x2 will vibrate like a son of ***** with anything past a barb connected to it. When I have the QDC connect I could feel the vibrations through it from the pump.


----------



## oreonutz

Triffid said:


> Thanks for the replies!
> Im not going to have any 90 degree bends. Only a T piece to add a drain valve:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would you guys do, go with one D5 or plan for two?
> In Australia shipping times from o/s aren't good and i'd hate to get insufficient flow only to have to wait a month or two, then again it'd be great to avoid added complexity and spending another $200 or so...
> 
> Also, how often would one have to replace the o-ring on the CPU block?


Not as experienced as some on here, however in my limited experience, I have already found that it is almost always better to go with 2 D5's in Series. You easily overcome any restriction in the loop by increasing your pressure, and by consequence your flow rate, and you get added redundancy in the event any one pump loses power. Just my humble opinion.

Also, again, others can correct me here if I am wrong, but I am yet to have to swap out 1 O Ring in my blocks. I have a bunch of extra's just in case, mainly for swapping out fitting o-rings in the case it becomes necessary, but I also keep at least 1 set of extra O-Rings Per Block just in case, I like to be always be prepared for the worst, but have yet had a situation happen where a CPU Block needed to have its O-Ring Swapped out.


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> that's just obscene. the bottom of the rung should be .5GPM.
> 
> no arguments needed. just Martin's liquid lab, and many other websites proving this time and time again. .5-1gpm are where the biggest gains are seen, n it typically falls off a cliff above that.
> 
> i never understand debating something you can test, screenshot, & post. I assume most of the people saying this are using garbage CLC & experiencing sunk cost fallacy.
> 
> kinda like "I play Single player games, so 60FPS is fine for me" sure. keep yourself in that prison.


LOL! Thats funny. I mainly play Single Player games, and I still prefer to have 120FPS plus. You can absolutely feel the difference, one feels like I am in a dream and high, and everything is happening slower than it should, like Jelly or something. The other feels smooth, instant, and ready for action. Higher than 120FPS and I have a hard time feeling the difference even though I know it is there, but I assume that is because everyone is different, and I am not a professional gamer. But I also couldn't imagine pigeon holing myself to 60FPS, even for Single Player Games, lol.

Anyways, I know your point was more to show that people should test things before they just state what they think is true, because their feelings tell them so. And I 100 Percent agree!



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Good many people ask why their d5 makes noise and it's always because they use T fittings on either outlet or inlet of the pump and sometimes even both :doh:
> 
> Doesn't matter someday optimus will make a dual d5 housing
> Some others like ek do and alphacool offer some plexi dual d5 bases.
> They do give head pressure going through gts rads you'll need some.


Well Damn... Now I feel Dumb. In my sisters build when I had to reinstall the Pump due to the previous one having having a short in the Pump housing at the +12v cable that would cause the Pump to randomly turn on and off, when I replaced it, I ended up using a Double 45 Rotary onto a T Fitting (with the Flow Straight through from end to end, with the Drain Valve in the Center Bottom), and then onto the AQ High Flow, and then on to a QDC that then went on to the CPU Inlet. And I could not figure out why the damn Pump was audible. I put so much Foam Padding in place of washers, both before the Nut, and the Screw, to make sure little to no vibration was passed on to the case housing, and still ended up with noise that I couldn't seem to quiet. Thankfully it was inside a Fractal Design R6, and Once the Case Panels were all on, you couldn't hear it any more, but it still bugged me that I couldn't figure out why it was noisier than every previous D5 I had worked with. Now I know... And I feel dumb... LOL!


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Really should only have a barb connect to the pump, anything else and it causes to much vibration. I've even seen cases of it damaging the pump because of it. Not sure if that's true of the D5's as I've never used one without a dual top but I know the MCP35x2 will vibrate like a son of ***** with anything past a barb connected to it. When I have the QDC connect I could feel the vibrations through it from the pump.


Hi,
I just added a bunch of QDC's and haven't noticed any noise 
Male outlet/ female inlet was suggested arrangement for them to connect.

I personally wouldn't even use a 90 on a pump if using soft tubing maybe a 45 but that's about it 
Soft tubing it's too easy to leave some slake remove and dump out the reservoir to bother with a drain valve.

People go though so much for something they won't use very often if all goes well lol


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I just added a bunch of QDC's and haven't noticed any noise
> Male outlet/ female inlet was suggested arrangement for them to connect.
> 
> I personally wouldn't even use a 90 on a pump if using soft tubing maybe a 45 but that's about it
> Soft tubing it's too easy to leave some slake remove and dump out the reservoir to bother with a drain valve.
> 
> People go though so much for something they won't use very often if all goes well lol


connected right off the pump though?


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> connected right off the pump though?


Hi,
No in various lines I have four pairs on each system 
I don't like the type that connect to the component, drip lines aren't controllable from damaging other hardware.

If in a line I can route the qdc connections out of the way of gpu/ psu easier besides I try and prevent messing with radiator and reservoir fluid 
I just like to remove cpu or gpu easily without draining the system or now add/ remove mora 360 easily to use it or not or connect two mora 360's or not


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> No in various lines I have four pairs on each system
> I don't like the type that connect to the component, drip lines aren't controllable from damaging other hardware.
> 
> If in a line I can route the qdc connections out of the way of gpu/ psu easier besides I try and prevent messing with radiator and reservoir fluid
> I just like to remove cpu or gpu easily without draining the system or now add/ remove mora 360 easily to use it or not or connect two mora 360's or not


Yeah in the loop they won't cause an issue. I meant when directly off the pump they will cause noise. I stupidly had mine like at one point.
Having them makes it so much easier to take it apart without draining it all. Really couldn't live without them now.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Almost got the g 1/4" threaded ones but canceled and got the regular 3/8-5/8" barb ready ones instead 
True don't know how I've gone this long without the qdc now or mora's for that matter only rad system that's done any good.


----------



## Shawnb99

I don't have the space but I still want dual mora's 

I guess I could downgrade my case but that's blasphemous. Caselabs 4 life!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Thought about trying watercool radiators too they do make those too in normal 3x120mm 360 rads same basic tube design


----------



## Shawnb99

I think i have enough radiators.  Still got dual HWL 360 GTR's to sell or use. Pair of HWL 560 SR1's I think, pair of 480 EK PE's as well to sell and a HWL 360 GTS I still might use. 

Not counting the 5 in my loop I'm good for rad space


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Something about the a/c coil design mora has just works 360 mora is 3x 360 rads so maybe that's it instead of the tube routing design I don't know I'm already thinking about a third on labor day sells :doh:


----------



## tistou77

Shawnb99 said:


> I don't have the space but I still want dual mora's


I have 2 MORA3, and for lack of space, I put 1 MORA on the other


----------



## Section31

Triffid said:


> Shawnb99 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Iâ€™️d go for two. Iâ€™️d always go for at least 2 pumps. Not just for the extras flow but for the redundancy
> 
> 
> 
> Im thinking then do i have enough internal USB ports for control? 1 for AC octofan, 1 for pump... I could avoid by just going with 2x SR2 rads. Very low restriction and i do want low rpm fans. Geez the price difference
> I should make another thread instead of hijacking this one.
> 
> 
> 
> ThrashZone said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Only deal with a T fitting is flow should go straight through it end to end and the drain on the center leg otherwise don't use one.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yep. Thankfully at least that is obvious to me.
> 
> Appreciate the help
Click to expand...

Its ok. This thread has kind of been derailed already so go ahead. Interesting results, In regards to your issue, it’s complicated. I asked aquacomputer and i either had to tie it up to my aq6 or i get an putty. I did endup getting an putty.


----------



## Section31

Based on whats been said in that reddit post, my flow rate would be even worse as i have 2 x koolance qd3, multiple 90degree adapter runs. I wouldn’t know since barrowsch one is unreliable and d5 next one isn’t working.


----------



## Avacado

Section31 said:


> Based on whats been said in that reddit post, my flow rate would be even worse as i have 2 x koolance qd3, multiple 90degree adapter runs. I wouldn’t know since barrowsch one is unreliable and d5 next one isn’t working.


True statement. You can visualize you res and see if coolant is being pushed above the waterline from pump pressure. You will also know if your thermals suck.


----------



## Ricey20

So is it officially confirmed that I can remove the center o-ring for my AMD Foundation, since Optimus is doing away with it and it just restricts flow?


----------



## oreonutz

Ricey20 said:


> So is it officially confirmed that I can remove the center o-ring for my AMD Foundation, since Optimus is doing away with it and it just restricts flow?


I am also looking for clarification on this point. @OptimusWC


----------



## ThrashZone

Ricey20 said:


> So is it officially confirmed that I can remove the center o-ring for my AMD Foundation, since Optimus is doing away with it and it just restricts flow?


Hi,
Yes you can remove the o-ring or just shave the horizontal part flush so they don't compress into the cooling fins so much 
Careful not to scratch the plexi if you shave them flush on the impression marks.


----------



## farpetrad

Thanks to @Section31 I was able to get in touch with someone! Both my reservoir and block shipped today. They will be here tomorrow so can't wait to drain and remove the Heatkiller IV and see what Optimus can do :-D


----------



## Section31

For those interested in comparison of BP Fittings Vs Optimus Soft Tube Fittings. BP is Matte Black and Optimus is XE Nickel. Might do one between BP Advanced and Optimus 12mm Fittings in the future (whenever they come out).


----------



## jcleary47

Last night I sent a reply to Optimus Customer Service Rep that emailed me a few weeks ago regarding the delay on my AM4 Foundation block. I'm asking if the XE-Nickel is the cause for the delay (sounds like it might be?), if they can just change my order to copper if they have it in stock. I really don't care at this point, would just like to a block. It's been almost a month. 

I ordered back on April 15th.


----------



## Section31

jcleary47 said:


> Last night I sent a reply to Optimus Customer Service Rep that emailed me a few weeks ago regarding the delay on my AM4 Foundation block. I'm asking if the XE-Nickel is the cause for the delay (sounds like it might be?), if they can just change my order to copper if they have it in stock. I really don't care at this point, would just like to a block. It's been almost a month.
> 
> I ordered back on April 15th.


The answer to your question is yes. My order was held up because of that. Now shipping.


----------



## skupples

Section31 said:


> For those interested in comparison of BP Fittings Vs Optimus Soft Tube Fittings. BP is Matte Black and Optimus is XE Nickel. Might do one between BP Advanced and Optimus 12mm Fittings in the future (whenever they come out).


pretty sure that's an older BP compression too. the tip length & design has changed a few times over the years.


----------



## Hequaqua

Just got a email from Optimus....block is being shipped! Woot!


----------



## farpetrad

My package just arrived!


----------



## Q__

nice farpetrad, that res and block looks sweet. Waiting for my Foundation and Res's to come in, fingers crossed.


----------



## Section31

Tell us how it performs. The whole block nearly completely filled up by the microfins.


----------



## Keith Myers

Sweet, can't wait for mine to show up, expect it Saturday. Let us know how it works.


----------



## cluster edge

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Optimus has already stated they are doing away with the narrow center o-ring so just remove it and no more restriction.


Hi Trash!
Foundation block can be used without 0 ring too?


----------



## ThrashZone

cluster edge said:


> Hi Trash!
> Foundation block can be used without 0 ring too?


Hi,
I shaved both sigV2 and foundation flush so it doesn't mess with the cooling fins anymore so no I left both in.
Of course I asked for some extra o-rings too just in case cutting them did bad things instead of good but it's all good shaved.


----------



## cluster edge

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I shaved both sigV2 and foundation flush so it doesn't mess with the cooling fins anymore so no I left both in.
> Of course I asked for some extra o-rings too just in case cutting them did bad things instead of good but it's all good shaved.


Thanks for the lightning-fast answer man!
But the main Q is in removing o rings not only because of flow restriction but because of warping cold plate. Yes, I lapped my 3800 so very interesting in the flat cold plate (as I'm from Ukraine its a bit long delivery routine so I'm a bit (lol) restricted in experimenting with shaving without spare block)
This is my footprint atm


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
O-ring squishes so no it doesn't affect bow of the cold plate so yes short answer is yes you can remove it

O-ring just seals around the area it's located
Pretty much why I leave it in and shave where I want the fluid to go = along the cooling fins not away from them.

An example
Heatkiller 4 pro has two straight o-rings on it that go the same direction as the cooling fins
Remove those and performance takes a huge shot so this is why I leave the o-rings on the optimus blocks and just shave where the flow goes.


----------



## cluster edge

Section31 said:


> For those interested in comparison of BP Fittings Vs Optimus Soft Tube Fittings. BP is Matte Black and Optimus is XE Nickel. Might do one between BP Advanced and Optimus 12mm Fittings in the future (whenever they come out).


Does internal tunnel straight or it have like stairs after the octagonal form is ended? Could you please take a pic?


----------



## cluster edge

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> O-ring squishes so no it doesn't affect bow of the cold plate so yes short answer is yes you can remove it
> 
> O-ring just seals around the area it's located
> Pretty much why I leave it in and shave where I want the fluid to go = along the cooling fins not away from them.
> 
> An example
> Heatkiller 4 pro has two straight o-rings on it that go the same direction as the cooling fins
> Remove those and performance takes a huge shot so this is why I leave the o-rings on the optimus blocks and just shave where the flow goes.


Thanks again. Probably do some testing on weekend


----------



## Kashtan

*kashtan*



cluster edge said:


> Thanks for the lightning-fast answer man!
> But the main Q is in removing o rings not only because of flow restriction but because of warping cold plate. Yes, I lapped my 3800 so very interesting in the flat cold plate (as I'm from Ukraine its a bit long delivery routine so I'm a bit (lol) restricted in experimenting with shaving without spare block)
> This is my footprint atm


Congrats and you are welcome to club of Optimus! 
I also from Ukraine. Have got Sig II ultra flat - sure for Intel, i wait 10900K.
What is your`s other water rigs components?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Time to use rig builder or simply adding all system spec's as plain test to signature


----------



## Section31

cluster edge said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> For those interested in comparison of BP Fittings Vs Optimus Soft Tube Fittings. BP is Matte Black and Optimus is XE Nickel. Might do one between BP Advanced and Optimus 12mm Fittings in the future (whenever they come out).
> 
> 
> 
> Does internal tunnel straight or it have like stairs after the octagonal form is ended? Could you please take a pic?
Click to expand...

I am waiting for one more fitting order but this is best i can do.


----------



## farpetrad

I won't be able to install it till tomorrow, not enough time before work starts all over tomorrow. I've been getting ~66c full load spikes up to 70 but goes back to steady 66 usually with the the room ~21c. Water temps get up to about 32c running [email protected] for days on end with the current Heatkiller and 1 EK Coolstream XE480 so will be interesting to see how more fin area helps. Another thing I have noticed is with ~50-60% load temps will be in the 70s, seems the Heatkiller IV has issues with how the chip decides to spread work over the cores, wondering if anyone with a 3990x has seen this?


----------



## Patay Roland

Hey

Does anyone know why they dont reply to emails?


----------



## Hequaqua

Patay Roland said:


> Hey
> 
> Does anyone know why they dont reply to emails?


Only time I've contacted them they replied within minutes. .....:headscrat


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC Where's my dual pump?

It been at least a week since I bugged ya last so where is it?????????




Patay Roland said:


> Hey
> 
> Does anyone know why they dont reply to emails?


Could be swamped. Send them another if they haven't replied back in a few days. They will respond.


----------



## Patay Roland

It’s not very likely because I’ve tried it several times already.

I ordered a Foundation block back on February 23rd and it has not yet arrived.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Could be a email service deal you use 
I often get emails into junk folder from people or companies.


----------



## Q__

Patay - I had the same worry but, they do eventually respond - try all their communication channels btw (including emails shared in the thread). 

To your point it's definitely taking way longer through normal channels than it should to get back to folks and don't think there system is very good at following the manufacturing process (i.e. the order updates aren't tied to showing you where you build or product is in the pipeline -ex. order -> in production -> qa -> prep for ship -> shipping, etc.). 

But, I've been reading a lot of positive signs, here and on twitter that folks are starting to see product get into their hands which is better than it was 2-3 weeks back with silence from them and customers.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nickle process is a bummer being out of house maybe they started setup for doing that in house early thus delaying even more.
Got to do what you got to do manufacture wise and consumer wise.


----------



## Mxj1

fwiw, I just reached out to them yesterday on reddit for inventory confirmation on a xylem d5. They responded a few hours later. I placed my order and got a shipping notification this morning.


----------



## Excall

I Orderd in May, AMD foundation block raw copper, and send an email beginning this week, recieved a reply a day later it would be shipped, and it arrived yesterday (this is an oversea order) the shipping was DHL and extremely fast. I was estimating a 2/3 weeks shipping time based on other orders done in the US. 
I welcome their plan for a Europe distribution as import and handeling fees make this quite an expensive block. I will have to wait fro one more part before I can start my build. 

Packaging > simple 
Quality > 5*

Looking forward using this block.


----------



## farpetrad

@Optimus WC well this is a bummer, was going to install everything this morning and noticed the pwm cable on the new res/pump was damaged with a wire visible, emailed support lets see how long it takes to get a response.


----------



## skupples

Patay Roland said:


> It’s not very likely because I’ve tried it several times already.
> 
> I ordered a Foundation block back on February 23rd and it has not yet arrived.





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Could be a email service deal you use
> I often get emails into junk folder from people or companies.


maybe, but then they'd be filtering my Gsuite (fancy gmail!) account & an azure synced 365 account. sooo yeah. idk....



farpetrad said:


> @Optimus WC well this is a bummer, was going to install everything this morning and noticed the pwm cable on the new res/pump was damaged with a wire visible, emailed support lets see how long it takes to get a response.


probably best to get the snips & crimps out if its not working. If it is working, I'd just put a piece of heat shrink over it. I think they're doing packaging IN the factory, thus why everything is dirty n heavy handed.

i don't think they understand how fickle the community is. "high end" or otherwise. People expect a clean product upon delivery.


----------



## dwolvin

I agree, it's a shame it got hurt, but I'd shrink / sleeve the cable.


----------



## farpetrad

Hmm I don't have any heat shrink, can this be purchased from Lowes/Home depot? Otherwise all I have is some electrical tape.


----------



## qes27

farpetrad said:


> Hmm I don't have any heat shrink, can this be purchased from Lowes/Home depot? Otherwise all I have is some electrical tape.


They'll have little heat shrink tubes - if you can pull the wire/pin from whatever it's attached to that can work.

Not sure the big boxes will have a heat shrink wrap with adhesive.. at that point I'd probably just throw some liquid tape on that tiny little spot.

Hopefully everyone's getting their Threadripper blocks now - mine came Thursday. Now to see about that 15% back they said they'd be giving..

And for @Patay Roland - Optimus has a long history of being difficult to get in touch with - particularly not responding to contact requests through their website. @ them here or bug them on various social media and you'll get a hold of them before too long.


----------



## Mxj1

farpetrad said:


> Hmm I don't have any heat shrink, can this be purchased from Lowes/Home depot? Otherwise all I have is some electrical tape.


They should have a general variety pack that's bound to have the right size for this job. Use a small paper clip or pick to depress the tang in the metal terminal at the four pin header for the pump. Slide the heat shrink over and you're good to go. 

As much as my ocd hates knowing something is altered, _and I didn't do it_, I'd call this one a wrap and move on - if the pump still works (I can't see any reason why it wouldn't). Its probably not worth the hassle of going back and forth with any vendor.


----------



## oreonutz

Mxj1 said:


> They should have a general variety pack that's bound to have the right size for this job. Use a small paper clip or pick to depress the tang in the metal terminal at the four pin header for the pump. Slide the heat shrink over and you're good to go.
> 
> As much as my ocd hates knowing something is altered, _and I didn't do it_, I'd call this one a wrap and move on - if the pump still works (I can't see any reason why it wouldn't). Its probably not worth the hassle of going back and forth with any vendor.


100% Agree. It sucks, but its fixable. I love me some Optimus, you won't see me critiquing them lightly, because I 100 Percent get the plight of the small Business trying to give us the best possible product, while competing with the Giants in the Sector.

That said... @OptimusWC . If ANYONE started sleeving their Pump Cables I thought for sure It would Be You! FeelsBadMan!


----------



## farpetrad

oreonutz said:


> 100% Agree. It sucks, but its fixable. I love me some Optimus, you won't see me critiquing them lightly, because I 100 Percent get the plight of the small Business trying to give us the best possible product, while competing with the Giants in the Sector.
> 
> That said... @OptimusWC . If ANYONE started sleeving their Pump Cables I thought for sure It would Be You! FeelsBadMan!


I agree it sucks, it is working ran it for 24 hours with blitz part 2 in some rads. Ran out and got some heat shrink so will just fix it, yeah it sucks and will annoy me but whatever. As long as they are aware as well as acknowledge it and can up their qa process from knowing this to prevent it down the road I will be happy.


----------



## agentdark45

My res/pump should be arriving tomorrow, what's the best approach to tidying up the non-sleeved cables as they'll be visible in my case? I was thinking some heat shrink but I've got no idea what diameter shrink I need to be able to fit over the pump cable connector.

Any help would be most appreciated!


----------



## Mxj1

agentdark45 said:


> My res/pump should be arriving tomorrow, what's the best approach to tidying up the non-sleeved cables as they'll be visible in my case? I was thinking some heat shrink but I've got no idea what diameter shrink I need to be able to fit over the pump cable connector.
> 
> Any help would be most appreciated!


I used this Mainframe sleeving. It worked to sleeve the power wires and pwm wires separately, though it is a snug fit on the power wires. You'll have to cut the power wires and solder them after you put the sleeving over it. I've also read that the optimus res is supposed to hide the wires. What that looks like, I don't know.

You can see what I ended up with in this photo.


----------



## Keith Myers

I put my Threadripper 3 block on my 2920X yesterday replacing the XSPC Raystorm Neo. Since I don't run Windows and have an ability to cite any of the common loading tests, all I will state is the temps are very much lower on the new Optimus block versus the XSPC. The Raystorm Neo was not a cooling slouch from the first TR block reviews either.

The mounting mechanism is very nice. No exposed studs, nuts or springs extending up over the block to snag fingers and cables.

Had to remove a plastic washer, steel washer,spring and thumbnut for every mounting stud on the XSPC block. Hard to pull those washers off the stud with no fingernails.

The T20 flush nuts work great with the TR torque wrench. Just drop the nuts into the block bores and put the block on the IHS. Torque down all the corners until the tool snaps over and you are done.


----------



## pmachado

I have my build finally all done and thought I'd share a couple of quick pictures here.


----------



## Mxj1

That looks really good. Great job.


----------



## skupples

who's GPU block is that really though?

nvm, i see it.


----------



## Mxj1

skupples said:


> who's GPU block is that really though?
> 
> nvm, i see it.


I think we all know what it's not.


----------



## pmachado

Mxj1 said:


> That looks really good. Great job.


Thanks!



skupples said:


> who's GPU block is that really though?
> 
> nvm, i see it.


LOL yes I wish it was the Optimus GPU block.


----------



## Section31

The water loop upgrade bug is contagious. Though see when Optimus comes out with Hard Tube Fittings and The Side mounted reservoir. I might endup trying the side mounted from them as well. Got to decide this summer whether to keep the PC-011XL or caselabs S8.


----------



## skupples

i mean, i wouldn't put it past optimus to send the few existing samples out in the wild to be shown off in show case builds.

I'm here, willing & ready. Gotta giant gorgeous STH10 full of shiny & expensive stuff, & lots of custom acrylic work.


----------



## farpetrad

Alright, I got my loop back up and running with the Optimus block and reservoir. I did add a heatkiller gpu block into the loop but so far things aren't much different than using the Heatkiller IV TRpro block. Starting a 24hr [email protected] run, 2 cpu clients 32 cores each, 1 gpu client.


----------



## Optimus WC

pmachado said:


> I have my build finally all done and thought I'd share a couple of quick pictures here.


Awesome build!! The white really came out nice!


----------



## Optimus WC

Keith Myers said:


> I put my Threadripper 3 block on my 2920X yesterday replacing the XSPC Raystorm Neo. Since I don't run Windows and have an ability to cite any of the common loading tests, all I will state is the temps are very much lower on the new Optimus block versus the XSPC. The Raystorm Neo was not a cooling slouch from the first TR block reviews either.
> 
> The mounting mechanism is very nice. No exposed studs, nuts or springs extending up over the block to snag fingers and cables.
> 
> Had to remove a plastic washer, steel washer,spring and thumbnut for every mounting stud on the XSPC block. Hard to pull those washers off the stud with no fingernails.
> 
> The T20 flush nuts work great with the TR torque wrench. Just drop the nuts into the block bores and put the block on the IHS. Torque down all the corners until the tool snaps over and you are done.


Hey Keith, 

Glad you like the block!! How much lower do you think the temps are at? Also, what mobo are you using?




oreonutz said:


> 100% Agree. It sucks, but its fixable. I love me some Optimus, you won't see me critiquing them lightly, because I 100 Percent get the plight of the small Business trying to give us the best possible product, while competing with the Giants in the Sector.
> 
> That said... @OptimusWC . If ANYONE started sleeving their Pump Cables I thought for sure It would Be You! FeelsBadMan!



Haha, yeah. So for people to know, we buy the stock Xylem pumps directly from Xylem. They come in stock Xylem boxes, we just put them in the reservoirs. All this custom D5 stuff out there -- it's all made by Xylem with a custom sticker (unless it's a counterfeit D5). For us, we wanted a "pro" style pump with SATA. So no frills like vario, just reliability and ease of cable management. Sleeved cables are a PITA and our pump/res is made to hide the cables (mostly). If anything, we'd prob request the cables to be standard black instead of Brazilian pride. Really, we only include the pumps to put in our reservoirs. And that there are almost no SATA D5s out there -- what's with all this molex stuff?! Time to move on from 80s watercooling


----------



## Section31

Thanks for posting Optimus. Hopefully your product launches go smoother. Keep us informed on the remainder of the fittings and alternative mount for your reservoir. I think I will be sticking to Aquacomputer D5 NEXT for the long haul myself.


----------



## Optimus WC

oreonutz said:


> 100% Agree. It sucks, but its fixable. I love me some Optimus, you won't see me critiquing them lightly, because I 100 Percent get the plight of the small Business trying to give us the best possible product, while competing with the Giants in the Sector.
> 
> That said... @OptimusWC . If ANYONE started sleeving their Pump Cables I thought for sure It would Be You! FeelsBadMan!





Section31 said:


> Thanks for posting Optimus. Hopefully your product launches go smoother. Keep us informed on the remainder of the fittings and alternative mount for your reservoir. I think I will be sticking to Aquacomputer D5 NEXT for the long haul myself.



Definitely, it's a hard time because of balancing COVID, suppliers and more. Hopefully once we're through this, launches will be faster, shipping faster, etc. 

We have a design for the reservoir mount, it's really cool. It's basically an infinity mount system, so the pump/res can go anywhere in the X/Y plane on a fan. And it can be side or bottom mount. All fully machined, no stamped metal, and looking really premium, matching the pump base. ETA is...when it's ready. No preorders this time


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Definitely, it's a hard time because of balancing COVID, suppliers and more. Hopefully once we're through this, launches will be faster, shipping faster, etc.
> 
> We have a design for the reservoir mount, it's really cool. It's basically an infinity mount system, so the pump/res can go anywhere in the X/Y plane on a fan. And it can be side or bottom mount. All fully machined, no stamped metal, and looking really premium, matching the pump base. ETA is...when it's ready. No preorders this time /forum/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif


Thanks for the update. If it works with d5 next thats huge. Hopes it more affordable with less metal being used.


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Hey Keith,
> 
> Glad you like the block!! How much lower do you think the temps are at? Also, what mobo are you using?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, yeah. So for people to know, we buy the stock Xylem pumps directly from Xylem. They come in stock Xylem boxes, we just put them in the reservoirs. All this custom D5 stuff out there -- it's all made by Xylem with a custom sticker (unless it's a counterfeit D5). For us, we wanted a "pro" style pump with SATA. So no frills like vario, just reliability and ease of cable management. Sleeved cables are a PITA and our pump/res is made to hide the cables (mostly). If anything, we'd prob request the cables to be standard black instead of Brazilian pride. Really, we only include the pumps to put in our reservoirs. And that there are almost no SATA D5s out there -- what's with all this molex stuff?! Time to move on from 80s watercooling


LOL! So True! And I am just busting ya Balls! Besides, sleeving ourselves, while a PITA is half the fun, so really, you are just leaving the best part for us! LOL!


----------



## farpetrad

🙁 well was chatting with optimus on Twitter about thermals and we talked about the TR wrench never clicking/popping and asked me to torque it and 2 mounting nuts popped. Wrench never popped so just finished tearing everything down. Going to have to deal with microcenter tomorrow and hope they can get me a board overnight since they are out of stock of the Zenith II Extreme Alpha in town. 😭


----------



## oreonutz

farpetrad said:


> 🙁 well was chatting with optimus on Twitter about thermals and we talked about the TR wrench never clicking/popping and asked me to torque it and 2 mounting nuts popped. Wrench never popped so just finished tearing everything down. Going to have to deal with microcenter tomorrow and hope they can get me a board overnight since they are out of stock of the Zenith II Extreme Alpha in town. 😭


Damn. I am sorry man...


----------



## farpetrad

oreonutz said:


> farpetrad said:
> 
> 
> 
> 🙁 well was chatting with optimus on Twitter about thermals and we talked about the TR wrench never clicking/popping and asked me to torque it and 2 mounting nuts popped. Wrench never popped so just finished tearing everything down. Going to have to deal with microcenter tomorrow and hope they can get me a board overnight since they are out of stock of the Zenith II Extreme Alpha in town. 😭
> 
> 
> 
> Damn. I am sorry man...
Click to expand...

Yeah sucks hard core. Luckily I got an extended warranty when the first board I got, a gigabyte, was DOA and wouldn’t post. Sucks it happened after hours and checking their inventory showed out of stock. Also dropped one of the optimus nuts Somewhere into the motherboard and thankfully Optimus said they would ship out replacement hardware tomorrow. Going to be a long week having to use my company i9 laptop with only 8 cores and not my workstation 🙁


----------



## Keith Myers

Optimus WC said:


> Hey Keith,
> 
> Glad you like the block!! How much lower do you think the temps are at? Also, what mobo are you using?


For my day to day crunching, it only amounts to 2-3° But when I was testing with my standard max stress tests of Prime95 small FFT and Y-cruncher the differential was a lot higher, closer to 5-8° C. The more you heat you need to shed with the higher wattage loads, the better it performs compared to my Raystorm Neo.

I have the Asrock X399 Fatality Professional Gaming motherboard.


----------



## farpetrad

Picked up a replacement board from Microcenter, out of the Zenith so went with the MSI Creator TRX40. 30 more minutes of work and I’ll begin my search for the lost optimus nut in the hopes of being able to rebuild before their shipment of new mounting nuts arrive. It fell into the mb case or room when I took it off and I shook the heck out of the motherboard and didn’t hear anything so really hope I can find it.


----------



## farpetrad

Found the nut. It rolled a long long way from my desk. Starting to build here’s a close up of the fitting on the new mb.


----------



## pmc25

farpetrad said:


> Found the nut. It rolled a long long way from my desk. Starting to build here’s a close up of the fitting on the new mb.


I really hope this one is using a backplate? It's bad enough that the Foundation does not, by defualt. This thing is enormous.


----------



## farpetrad

pmc25 said:


> farpetrad said:
> 
> 
> 
> Found the nut. It rolled a long long way from my desk. Starting to build hereâ€™️s a close up of the fitting on the new mb.
> 
> 
> 
> I really hope this one is using a backplate? It's bad enough that the Foundation does not, by defualt. This thing is enormous.
Click to expand...

Yeah the three tr MB’s I have used now all come with back plates on the socket.


----------



## farpetrad

Well leak testing now. Getting impatient 😜. I did get the bubble out of the cpu block but can’t get the one bubble out of the Heatkiller to save my life.


----------



## Bakerman

farpetrad said:


> Well leak testing now. Getting impatient 😜. I did get the bubble out of the cpu block but can’t get the one bubble out of the Heatkiller to Dave my life.


This is a gorgeous block. Would you recommend this or the Heatkiller IV Pro?


----------



## Optimus WC

Keith Myers said:


> For my day to day crunching, it only amounts to 2-3° But when I was testing with my standard max stress tests of Prime95 small FFT and Y-cruncher the differential was a lot higher, closer to 5-8° C. The more you heat you need to shed with the higher wattage loads, the better it performs compared to my Raystorm Neo.
> 
> I have the Asrock X399 Fatality Professional Gaming motherboard.


Those are some great temps!! And even with that CPU. The newer ones run hotter. And definitely, the more heat, the better the block does. we've taken our "normal" block up to 800w.



pmc25 said:


> I really hope this one is using a backplate? It's bad enough that the Foundation does not, by defualt. This thing is enormous.


The Threadripper socket (TR4 aka SP3) is like the Intel 20XX socket, so it has all the mounting on the top. The backplate is part of the socket assembly, unlike AM4 and 115X/1200.



Bakerman said:


> This is a gorgeous block. Would you recommend this or the Heatkiller IV Pro?


Definitely this block


----------



## skupples

farpetrad said:


> Well leak testing now. Getting impatient 😜. I did get the bubble out of the cpu block but can’t get the one bubble out of the Heatkiller to save my life.


i'd recommend some rubber under the pump.

or even cut up an old coozie & wedge it under.

it'll help the case not turn into a reverb device.


----------



## farpetrad

skupples said:


> farpetrad said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well leak testing now. Getting impatient 😜. I did get the bubble out of the cpu block but canâ€™️t get the one bubble out of the Heatkiller to save my life.
> 
> 
> 
> i'd recommend some rubber under the pump.
> 
> or even cut up an old coozie & wedge it under.
> 
> it'll help the case not turn into a reverb device.
Click to expand...

There are rubber grommets under it came with the reservoir no reverberations at all.


----------



## Keith Myers

farpetrad said:


> There are rubber grommets under it came with the reservoir no reverberations at all.


Yes, the block came will two clear silicon rubber donuts that go around the mounting holes. Entirely sufficient to dampen any pump vibrations from transferring into the case.


----------



## farpetrad

Ugh! Back up and running, now to really put this block through its paces. So 3 of the 4 nuts did the click and the top left nut just spins but makes a slight click, luckily @Optimus WC sent some replacements out today so when they arrive will redo the mounting and check the thermal spread. I did apply their KP paste this time instead of the noctura I have so not quite apples to apples comparisons for now so will have to do the noctura paste when I remount in a few days. And again thanks to Optimus for taking the time and helping with the mounting issues and showing great customer support.


----------



## D-EJ915

farpetrad said:


> Well leak testing now. Getting impatient 😜. I did get the bubble out of the cpu block but can’t get the one bubble out of the Heatkiller to save my life.


Looks pretty nice, I'm like an inch away from buying a 3175x because my loop is pissing me off lol, too bad it doesn't have mounting for that too lol.


----------



## jcleary47

My Foundation block is arriving today. So what was the verdict on the center O-Ring? Is it recommended if there is one there, it can be safely removed to help with flow?


----------



## farpetrad

So left things running [email protected] overnight and it looks like the cpu has hit the sweet spot under full load with temps ~63c at a flowrate of .8gpm, still playing with the rate but lowering the flow to .5gpm raises the temp ~1-2c, where as with the Heatkiller IV TrPro I was seeing 66-70c max loads (usually more towards 70 unless AC is blasting). I'm quite happy with this drop in temps but will do more comparisons of pastes I used with the TrPro on the Optimus block so Noctura paste next and then Thermal grizzly.


----------



## Mxj1

jcleary47 said:


> My Foundation block is arriving today. So what was the verdict on the center O-Ring? Is it recommended if there is one there, it can be safely removed to help with flow?


I'm waiting on this too. If it helps with performance - great. If they make a replacement top with no o-ring groove, even better. I'm antsy over just the physical appearance change without the center o-ring (and groove).


----------



## oreonutz

jcleary47 said:


> My Foundation block is arriving today. So what was the verdict on the center O-Ring? Is it recommended if there is one there, it can be safely removed to help with flow?





Mxj1 said:


> I'm waiting on this too. If it helps with performance - great. If they make a replacement top with no o-ring groove, even better. I'm antsy over just the physical appearance change without the center o-ring (and groove).



So I asked @OptimusWC In DM's Privately, just because I wanted to be absolutely sure. This was his Exact Response




oreonutz said:


> I just want to confirm with you. It has been said on the forum that its ok to pull out the Center O-Ring on the Foundation Block, and that this will decrease resistance in the block. I personally don't think the blocks are very restrictive to begin with, but as a tinkerer I would want to try it, as long as you agree its not needed. Just wanted to get your take on it.
> 
> Appreciate your time!





oreonutz said:


> Oh, also, in case this makes a difference, I am referring to the AMD Foundation Block. Much Respect!





Optimus WC said:


> Yeah go for it! Should be fine, I don't think it actually does much of anything to restriction, it's just a vestigial organ, like an appendix. The only thing is possibly the bow, but worth playing around, who knows


----------



## Shawnb99

Losing the O-ring apply to the Signature blocks as well?


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> Losing the O-ring apply to the Signature blocks as well?


According to @ThrashZone It does. But I have not asked Optimus that directly.


----------



## Avacado

oreonutz said:


> According to @ThrashZone It does. But I have not asked Optimus that directly.


IIRC Optimus directly commended Thrash for that discovery and confirmed it.


----------



## Avacado

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> We're still here
> 
> We were told by our anodizer that we'll have Threadripper brackets this week. Batches of TR cold plates are being nickel plated right now. Everything else is done.
> 
> Covid has been a drag, it changes everything in the supply line. For example, boxes. Something you wouldn't think would be an issue, but a printer shuts down and we're scrambling. We got the boxes figured out, but everything gets screwed up. Coolant for CNCs, tooling, etc. So many little things you wouldn't think about.
> 
> As for some of the rampant speculation about us, no, we're not going anywhere  The strange part of all this covid stuff is that people are, it seems, building more PCs. So increased demand with all kinds of nonsense in the the supply chain. So life just becomes more difficult. Yay.
> 
> As for "vaporware" and preorders, yes, the preorders have been a nightmare. It's not like we thought it'd take this long. We had AMD TR projects lined up that we had to back out of. Same with the GPU. The only good news out of all of this is, well, we've found better ways to max performance and once we've achieved the core product design, new models are vastly easier to make.
> 
> But, like everything we do, if we think there's more performance to be had, we'd rather delay than release a good-enough product.
> 
> *HERE ARE SOME UPGRADES:*
> 
> *ALL NEW MOUNTING: *Use your torque key that came with the Threadripper CPU to install the block. The key provides 1.5 newton meters before popping. So you can only apply 1.5nm of mounting pressure to each post. Which means no more guessing for pressure using thumb nuts or springs. The block mounting uses the same Torx 20 (T20) head as the key. Of course, you can use a regular strewdriver and get a good 20nm if you're crazy. We spent a TON of time testing this and DESTROYING mobos. It's a Zenith graveyard over here. The spec for the mounting posts is well above 1.5nm, so we're confident this mounting system is A+ for all uses. This was important to us, the conversations we had about "hey, maybe we should just do thumb nuts like everyone else because that is safe" were ongoing. But that's not the Optimus way.
> 
> 
> And, yes, the torque will be applied to other products as well. We've tentatively sourced 1.5nm keys to offer, though we haven't had time to do XOC with intel and am4 blocks with higher/lower torque settings.
> 
> 
> Mark my words, this torque design will be copied  But, hey, as long the water cooling industry advances, all good with us.
> 
> 
> *THREADRIPPER IHS TOPO MAP:* One of the longest parts of TR was dealing with the insane TR IHS. It's not normal, at all. And it has changed over generations, going from convex to concave and basically just a ripple in a pond, wavy from middle on out. So yeah making a block that accounts for that has been a massive pain. You'll see we use two kinds of screws on the cold plate -- bigs and smalls that help provide certain kinds of pressure in specific places.
> 
> 
> *JET PLATEAU DESIGN: *Interestingly, we were able to eliminate the center o-ring. Hat tip to ThrashZone for going ape on our blocks and o-rings lol. Basically, that center o-ring is another relic of bygone coolers. So we ditched it in this design. The o-ring compresses anyway, and for the other blocks, the o-ring really doesn't do that much. We've found that our blocks have excellent contact from jet plateau to the fins. The older o-ring style helps compensate for steel jet plates that wiggle or variations in injection molding.
> 
> 
> Moreover, we went through countless revision of the jet slot and fin design in order to make sure flow and contact was premium.
> 
> 
> *CRAZY FINS AND SURFACE FINISH:* Making a cold plate this big with the same size fins has been, let's just say, insane. For people who know machining, the typical response when seeing our regular cold plate is "***, how did you do this." Now, it's even more crazy. We've done lots of tweaks and improvements. If you're hyper paying attention, we've released pics of the TR cold plate in different iterations, with diff mounting and mirror areas. This is all part of this insane tweaking that was needed to make the block perfect.
> 
> 
> *LAPPED IHS:* Yes, we're making a "super flat" version as well. Basically, the center insert is a different shape to allow the cold plate to be flat. With TR, the only thing people will do is lap their CPUs, no delidding (well, not in any real scale). So we'll offer that from the beginning.
> 
> 
> *THE END RESULT:* So what does all this mean? well, the block is a beast, that's for sure. The new style construction is really awesome, imo. Installation, reliability and performance are all top of class. For performance, the thermal capacity is off the charts. As some of you guys have found, our normal block can do ~800w, this new one has a vastly larger surface area. TR is unique because the heat layout from the little city of dies, so this block really shines when going for big overclocks. Or any overclocks, because TR is anything but an easy CPU.


Found it. See: JET PLATEAU DESIGN


----------



## oreonutz

Avacado said:


> Found it. See: JET PLATEAU DESIGN


Yup! I thought I remember reading the same! So Yeah Pretty sure the Signature blocks are covered in that.

I was just wondering if it would be the same for Foundation, and @OptimusWC told me that he doesn't think it will have much of an effect there either way, but to test it and see if I see a difference, but that he doesn't think it will change much.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Same for foundation applies

I do not remove the o-rings personally just shave flush where the fin marks are on both sigV2 or foundation.
I leave the sides/ ends normal o-ring so water doesn't go that direction and stays going along the cooling fins.

Just refer to heatkiller 4 pro and it's straight o-rings going parallel along the cooling fins for reference why
If you take them out performance takes a pretty big hit core spread wise so thus why I leave them intact on the ends.


----------



## Shawnb99

Once Optimus WC finally caves to my demands of a dual pump, I'll do a complete tear down and see what removing the O-ring does. 

Dual pumps soon please or I'll be forced to go distrio plate and I'll be stuck with singles 

Looking at adding this https://www.singularitycomputers.co...ion-plates/caselabs-thw10-distribution-plate/ and working your pump/res combo instead of theirs. 

Really only cause that side is empty and I MUST fill it. I really got too much as it is, I don't need more... I just want it.


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> Once Optimus WC finally caves to my demands of a dual pump, I'll do a complete tear down and see what removing the O-ring does.
> 
> Dual pumps soon please or I'll be forced to go distrio plate and I'll be stuck with singles
> 
> Looking at adding this https://www.singularitycomputers.co...ion-plates/caselabs-thw10-distribution-plate/ and working your pump/res combo instead of theirs.
> 
> Really only cause that side is empty and I MUST fill it. I really got too much as it is, I don't need more... I just want it.


 @OptimusWC I Definitely want to add my weight, All 340 Pounds of it, To this Request! Please Dual Pump!!!

Also, Regarding Distro Plates, I am still trying to understand the trend. I definitely get it for Hard Line Builds, where you are actually using it as a Distro Plate to Straighten out Your Runs, it gives you so many options to be able to run your lines straight to the Distro, so I get that. But I see SO MANY BUILDS where they are using the Distro just for the looks and still have their Runs with complicated Bends. I just don't understand the appeal in those cases...


----------



## Hequaqua

Just got my block!!

I'll probably wait until tomorrow to mess with it though. Not feeling the greatest. 

Preview:


Spoiler


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Sweet block for the money foundation rules


----------



## Hequaqua

Hope so...gonna do some testing with the Heatkiller in there...swap it out....then run same tests.....see how it does. 

I don't have a fancy flow meter, but I have one that I can read the rpms going through....see if there is any restriction compared to the HK. 

Just wish I felt better so I could do it today....better wait until I have a clearer mind.....old age is already bad enough....lol


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah I put heatkiller 4 pro back on after changing fluids to mods coolant to see what HK 4 pro does against the ek magnitude 

Cleaned my copper gpu block too on x299 good thing it picked up some crap
No corrosion after 2 years though what's up with that 

Thought copper corrodes but looks better than the nickle especially under the ek jet plate and also between the in/ outlet flow lines
Copper rules dorks


----------



## oreonutz

Hequaqua said:


> Just got my block!!
> 
> I'll probably wait until tomorrow to mess with it though. Not feeling the greatest.
> 
> Preview:
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 347490
> 
> 
> View attachment 347492
> 
> 
> View attachment 347494
> 
> 
> View attachment 347496
> 
> 
> View attachment 347498
> 
> 
> View attachment 347500


Damn!!! So Sorry You Feel Bad man, FEELSBADMAN... I hope you get better soon!



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Sweet block for the money foundation rules


I have to agree with Thrash Here. I have 2 Of these Blocks, and Both are insanely good performers! One is going into my New Test Bench, and I still intend, although 6 Months late, to deliver in depth performance numbers between this Block along with several Others.

Either way, You will not be disappointed w/ the Foundation @Hequaqua!


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah I put heatkiller 4 pro back on after changing fluids to mods coolant to see what HK 4 pro does against the ek magnitude
> 
> Cleaned my copper gpu block too on x299 good thing it picked up some crap
> No corrosion after 2 years though what's up with that
> 
> Thought copper corrodes but looks better than the nickle especially under the ek jet plate and also between the in/ outlet flow lines
> Copper rules dorks


NICE!

Is this with just Distilled Water and Biocide+/Inhibitor+ (or The Regular Clear Mayhems Fluid) in the Loop?


----------



## Section31

For those with xe nickel, my last cpu block order got updated to preparing for shipping


----------



## Hequaqua

oreonutz said:


> Damn!!! So Sorry You Feel Bad man, FEELSBADMAN... I hope you get better soon!
> 
> 
> 
> I have to agree with Thrash Here. I have 2 Of these Blocks, and Both are insanely good performers! One is going into my New Test Bench, and I still intend, although 6 Months late, to deliver in depth performance numbers between this Block along with several Others.
> 
> Either way, You will not be disappointed w/ the Foundation @Hequaqua!


Thanks man.....hope I get to feeling better too!....sucks getting old....lol


----------



## ThrashZone

oreonutz said:


> NICE!
> 
> Is this with just Distilled Water and Biocide+/Inhibitor+ (or The Regular Clear Mayhems Fluid) in the Loop?


Hi,
Both saw a lot of different coolants
Kryocrap premix nastiest stuff imaginable newbie mistake
Distilled water only about a month a few times
Kryocrap concentrate shortly

Ac delco antifreeze about 15% mix with distilled water didn't make sense seeing I wasn't on a chiller 
Nickle block inhibitor+ & biocide+ after x1 clear turned green (known hardware labs radiator bug) but now has modmymods clear coolant x99 rig
Copper was x1 clear until today when I removed it to replace it with modmymods clear coolant after it didn't turn green in x99 rig

So now both rigs and two 360 mora's will finally have a universal coolant mods clear coolant 9.00 liter :thumb:

https://modmymods.com/modmymods-modwater-pc-coolant-clear-1-liter-mod-0275.html

I'll just have three liters of x1 clear for a third rig and a 360 mora some day maybe 10900k rig or 4k amd rig no telling.


----------



## agentdark45

Up and running here with the nickel Threadripper block but now I've got a huge issue - the Optimus pump appears to have died! Luckily I have another EK D5 in the loop which is giving some flow...

When doing the initial fill I heard a loud high pitch screeching which went away after a 30 seconds or so - I suspect this was the sound of the pump dying 

I've got no RPM reading on the Optimus pump via one of my commander pros (the EK reads perfectly fine). I did get a blip of an RPM reading on the Optimus pump (fluctuating between 15-200 RPM) but that has now since disappeared.

Apart from the dead pump, the reservoir and block really are works of art!
@Optimus WC I'll shoot you an email now about the pump


----------



## Hequaqua

Got mine mounted.....finally felt good enough....

Haven't really tested yet....but looks good!!


----------



## HyperC

This company seems to be lacking with customer service, I have emailed them 3 times 2 weeks ago maybe 3 heard zero back, I even took a chance and ordered the foundation block to support a local business zero tracking and zero replies... Any type of info would be great instead of sitting in the dark I can understand people and companies get busy but the main thing they should be doing is informing the customers! back ordered or not this isn't 2010 sorry if this is harsh or rude really sucks when nobody seems to answer back, this happened to me another time supporting another local business called EPIC subs and they went outta business


----------



## ThrashZone

HyperC said:


> This company seems to be lacking with customer service, I have emailed them 3 times 2 weeks ago maybe 3 heard zero back, I even took a chance and ordered the foundation block to support a local business zero tracking and zero replies... Any type of info would be great instead of sitting in the dark I can understand people and companies get busy but the main thing they should be doing is informing the customers! back ordered or not this isn't 2010 sorry if this is harsh or rude really sucks when nobody seems to answer back, this happened to me another time supporting another local business called EPIC subs and they went outta business


Hi,
You can always if you haven't yet private message the dude @Optimus WC


----------



## HyperC

I tried that thanks though


----------



## Shawnb99

oreonutz said:


> @OptimusWC I Definitely want to add my weight, All 340 Pounds of it, To this Request! Please Dual Pump!!!
> 
> Also, Regarding Distro Plates, I am still trying to understand the trend. I definitely get it for Hard Line Builds, where you are actually using it as a Distro Plate to Straighten out Your Runs, it gives you so many options to be able to run your lines straight to the Distro, so I get that. But I see SO MANY BUILDS where they are using the Distro just for the looks and still have their Runs with complicated Bends. I just don't understand the appeal in those cases...



Yeah I don’t understand the need for them either. I’m really just adding it for looks myself


----------



## Hequaqua

I didn't do a lot of testing since I wasn't feeling well. 

I would have to say I'm pretty impressed though. 

I said that all I really had to measure flow restriction was a little flow meter that shows my flow in RPM. The Optimus block appears less restrictive even with the center O-ring in there. 

I ran CB20 looped for 3min each time. It will actually finish the last render if it's over the 3min time set. So those were all over 3min each for both blocks. I used OCCT, Medium Data Set with Auto(no AVX) for 10min, didn't really want to set here for a few hours. I figured as long as I did both blocks the same, that was good enough. Then I ran the Blender Benchmark. All six scenes....the average temp is a bit misleading as the temps drops between scenes while it loads them up. Again, tested the same on both blocks. 

This was also with the same thermal paste, the Noctua NT-H1. I don't think it has a curing time, but it might make a slight difference. 

Overall....a good 6°C+ drop in temps!:thumb:

*Heatkiller Pro v Optimus Foundation*


----------



## agentdark45

agentdark45 said:


> Up and running here with the nickel Threadripper block but now I've got a huge issue - the Optimus pump appears to have died! Luckily I have another EK D5 in the loop which is giving some flow...
> 
> When doing the initial fill I heard a loud high pitch screeching which went away after a 30 seconds or so - I suspect this was the sound of the pump dying
> 
> I've got no RPM reading on the Optimus pump via one of my commander pros (the EK reads perfectly fine). I did get a blip of an RPM reading on the Optimus pump (fluctuating between 15-200 RPM) but that has now since disappeared.
> 
> Apart from the dead pump, the reservoir and block really are works of art!
> 
> @Optimus WC I'll shoot you an email now about the pump



Ok so a follow up to this after some tinkering on my end:

It appears that the PWM cable is the culprit. The pump works with the RPM cable not plugged in at all, as well as plugged directly into the motherboard pump header (I'm able to control the pump speed via the bios, the water swirls in relation to the set percentage - but I'm unable to see any RPM readings so I can't tell what speed the pump is actually operating at).

The major issue happens when plugging the RPM cable into either of my Corsair Commander Pro's - the pump stops working/reads at 0-200rpm and doesn't respond to speed changes. The other EK D5 pump works like a champ when plugged into the Commander pros. I've tested each pump independently to avoid any flow conflicts.

This is obviously not ideal as I can't monitor the Optimus pump RPM, any help guys?


----------



## GAN77

agentdark45 said:


> .
> 
> This is obviously not ideal as I can't monitor the Optimus pump RPM, any help guys?


To check, connect the PWM control D5 to the motherboard.


----------



## farpetrad

agentdark45 said:


> agentdark45 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Up and running here with the nickel Threadripper block but now I've got a huge issue - the Optimus pump appears to have died! Luckily I have another EK D5 in the loop which is giving some flow...
> 
> When doing the initial fill I heard a loud high pitch screeching which went away after a 30 seconds or so - I suspect this was the sound of the pump dying /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif
> 
> I've got no RPM reading on the Optimus pump via one of my commander pros (the EK reads perfectly fine). I did get a blip of an RPM reading on the Optimus pump (fluctuating between 15-200 RPM) but that has now since disappeared.
> 
> Apart from the dead pump, the reservoir and block really are works of art!
> 
> @Optimus WC I'll shoot you an email now about the pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok so a follow up to this after some tinkering on my end:
> 
> It appears that the PWM cable is the culprit. The pump works with the RPM cable not plugged in at all, as well as plugged directly into the motherboard pump header (I'm able to control the pump speed via the bios, the water swirls in relation to the set percentage - but I'm unable to see any RPM readings so I can't tell what speed the pump is actually operating at).
> 
> The major issue happens when plugging the RPM cable into either of my Corsair Commander Pro's - the pump stops working/reads at 0-200rpm and doesn't respond to speed changes. The other EK D5 pump works like a champ when plugged into the Commander pros. I've tested each pump independently to avoid any flow conflicts.
> 
> This is obviously not ideal as I can't monitor the Optimus pump RPM, any help guys?
Click to expand...

Hmm odd I have mine plugged into the commander pro that’s part of my 1000D and works fine other than my +/- 2k spikes from a bad pump. I tried the other commander pro I have plugged in and it works there too. My mb header does the same thing with the spikes but all 3 places I can change the speed and it will hold steady other than the bad spikes. Optimus sent me out a new pump this morning.


----------



## oreonutz

agentdark45 said:


> Ok so a follow up to this after some tinkering on my end:
> 
> It appears that the PWM cable is the culprit. The pump works with the RPM cable not plugged in at all, as well as plugged directly into the motherboard pump header (I'm able to control the pump speed via the bios, the water swirls in relation to the set percentage - but I'm unable to see any RPM readings so I can't tell what speed the pump is actually operating at).
> 
> The major issue happens when plugging the RPM cable into either of my Corsair Commander Pro's - the pump stops working/reads at 0-200rpm and doesn't respond to speed changes. The other EK D5 pump works like a champ when plugged into the Commander pros. I've tested each pump independently to avoid any flow conflicts.
> 
> This is obviously not ideal as I can't monitor the Optimus pump RPM, any help guys?


Not sure if this will help. But Each PWM Fan/Pump Header has 4 Pins.

This is From Right to Left, When Looking at the Fan Header On the Mother Board, with the Plastic Guider on the Top Side.
Pin1 - Ground
Pin2 - 12v
Pin3 - Tach
Pin4 - PWM

Picture For Reference:


Spoiler























The 3rd Pin is the Pin Responsible for sending the Speed reading (Tach) of the Fan/Pump to your Motherboard or other PWM Control Device. I Would check to make sure this Pin Is Seated All the way in the Pump Header, its possible it didn't get Clicked all the way into place when the cable was made at the factory. Its also possible that there is a short someway along the cable, so I would check to make sure that their are no knicks any where along the cable itself, especially making sure to check both ends, both where the Cable Meets the Header, and Where the Cable Meets the Pump, to make sure that 3rd Pin did not get pulled out somewhere.

Good Luck!


----------



## agentdark45

farpetrad said:


> Hmm odd I have mine plugged into the commander pro that’s part of my 1000D and works fine other than my +/- 2k spikes from a bad pump. I tried the other commander pro I have plugged in and it works there too. My mb header does the same thing with the spikes but all 3 places I can change the speed and it will hold steady other than the bad spikes. Optimus sent me out a new pump this morning.





oreonutz said:


> Not sure if this will help. But Each PWM Fan/Pump Header has 4 Pins.
> 
> This is From Right to Left, When Looking at the Fan Header On the Mother Board, with the Plastic Guider on the Top Side.
> Pin1 - Ground
> Pin2 - 12v
> Pin3 - Tach
> Pin4 - PWM
> 
> Picture For Reference:
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 3rd Pin is the Pin Responsible for sending the Speed of the Fan/Pump to your Motherboard or other PWM Control Device. I Would check to make sure this Pin Is Seated All the way in the Pump Header, its possible it didn't get Clicked all the way into place when the cable was made at the factory. Its also possible that there is a short someway along the cable, so I would check to make sure that their are no knicks any where along the cable itself, especially making sure to check both ends, both where the Cable Meets the Header, and Where the Cable Meets the Pump, to make sure that 3rd Pin did not get pulled out somewhere.
> 
> Good Luck!


Thanks for the help guys, I'll do a double check on this before Optimus sends out a new pump. I find it strange that it appears to be somewhat working plugged into the motherboard but not the commander pro (which works with the EK pump). Not sure how this ties in with the screeching issue I mentioned earlier, probably best I RMA it in case anything was damaged from the start.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hequaqua said:


> I didn't do a lot of testing since I wasn't feeling well.
> 
> I would have to say I'm pretty impressed though.
> 
> I said that all I really had to measure flow restriction was a little flow meter that shows my flow in RPM. The Optimus block appears less restrictive even with the center O-ring in there.
> 
> I ran CB20 looped for 3min each time. It will actually finish the last render if it's over the 3min time set. So those were all over 3min each for both blocks. I used OCCT, Medium Data Set with Auto(no AVX) for 10min, didn't really want to set here for a few hours. I figured as long as I did both blocks the same, that was good enough. Then I ran the Blender Benchmark. All six scenes....the average temp is a bit misleading as the temps drops between scenes while it loads them up. Again, tested the same on both blocks.
> 
> This was also with the same thermal paste, the Noctua NT-H1. I don't think it has a curing time, but it might make a slight difference.
> 
> Overall....a good 6°C+ drop in temps!:thumb:
> 
> *Heatkiller Pro v Optimus Foundation*


Hi,
Yeah nice improvement :thumb"
I use nt-h1 mostly and it does get better after a while or after doing some good stressful benchmarks like blender opendata full cpu test.


----------



## oreonutz

agentdark45 said:


> Thanks for the help guys, I'll do a double check on this before Optimus sends out a new pump. I find it strange that it appears to be somewhat working plugged into the motherboard but not the commander pro (which works with the EK pump). Not sure how this ties in with the screeching issue I mentioned earlier, probably best I RMA it in case anything was damaged from the start.


So it depends on how the PWM Was implemented. On Some Motherboards/Pwm Control Devices, If the Sense/Tach Pin/Signal Is Missing, It determines the Fan/Pump is not functioning properly, and will cut off the signal. Other Devices, have no issues sending out the PWM Signal even when not receiving back a Tach. I bet you that is the difference here.

Also regarding the Screeching, I have heard that before, thats the last thing you want to hear. That means either the Pump is running Dry, or there are a ton of air bubbles in the pump. At least in my limited experience just a few years into Custom Water Cooling, that is what I have been able to gather.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hequaqua said:


> I didn't do a lot of testing since I wasn't feeling well.
> 
> I would have to say I'm pretty impressed though.
> 
> I said that all I really had to measure flow restriction was a little flow meter that shows my flow in RPM. The Optimus block appears less restrictive even with the center O-ring in there.
> 
> I ran CB20 looped for 3min each time. It will actually finish the last render if it's over the 3min time set. So those were all over 3min each for both blocks. I used OCCT, Medium Data Set with Auto(no AVX) for 10min, didn't really want to set here for a few hours. I figured as long as I did both blocks the same, that was good enough. Then I ran the Blender Benchmark. All six scenes....the average temp is a bit misleading as the temps drops between scenes while it loads them up. Again, tested the same on both blocks.
> 
> This was also with the same thermal paste, the Noctua NT-H1. I don't think it has a curing time, but it might make a slight difference.
> 
> Overall....a good 6°C+ drop in temps!:thumb:
> 
> *Heatkiller Pro v Optimus Foundation*



Awesome numbers! Well, expected numbers  Glad you got good results, and the restriction is an urban myth. And an artifact of DDC pumps and a few other factors. The total channel area of our cold plates is the same or higher of others, just divided in many more tiny channels, not big fat channels. 

And the more you push our block, the better it gets, the total heat dissipation is really high. 




HyperC said:


> I tried that thanks though


Yeah, sorry about the lack of responses! Our shipping and customer service guy has had a hard time with covid, family and other issues. We're trying hard to get everything out. We don't have a strong ETA, but our suppliers for anodizing and the like are now back at full strength, so we will be shipping far more rapidly.


----------



## Hequaqua

Optimus WC said:


> Awesome numbers! Well, expected numbers  Glad you got good results, and the restriction is an urban myth. And an artifact of DDC pumps and a few other factors. The total channel area of our cold plates is the same or higher of others, just divided in many more tiny channels, not big fat channels.
> 
> And the more you push our block, the better it gets, the total heat dissipation is really high.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, sorry about the lack of responses! Our shipping and customer service guy has had a hard time with covid, family and other issues. We're trying hard to get everything out. We don't have a strong ETA, but our suppliers for anodizing and the like are now back at full strength, so we will be shipping far more rapidly.


Thanks!


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Awesome numbers! Well, expected numbers  Glad you got good results, and the restriction is an urban myth. And an artifact of DDC pumps and a few other factors. The total channel area of our cold plates is the same or higher of others, just divided in many more tiny channels, not big fat channels.
> 
> And the more you push our block, the better it gets, the total heat dissipation is really high.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, sorry about the lack of responses! Our shipping and customer service guy has had a hard time with covid, family and other issues. We're trying hard to get everything out. We don't have a strong ETA, but our suppliers for anodizing and the like are now back at full strength, so we will be shipping far more rapidly.


Good Guy @Optimus WC! Love To See IT! You guys are going to be the new Bitspower, but better! Backing you 100 Percent!


----------



## Keith Myers

Just wanted to comment that my Optimus D5 PWM pump/reservoir also just had the speed output die. Was working fine until I turned the computer off to install a flowmeter. Turned it back on and the pump speed is not reported anymore on any header in the BIOS or the OS. Pump still runs thankfully.


----------



## HyperC

Yeah, sorry about the lack of responses! Our shipping and customer service guy has had a hard time with covid, family and other issues. We're trying hard to get everything out. We don't have a strong ETA, but our suppliers for anodizing and the like are now back at full strength, so we will be shipping far more rapidly.[/QUOTE] So eta would be like ? I mean it would be great if the site had some type of in stock numbers, could I pick the block up?


----------



## oreonutz

Keith Myers said:


> Just wanted to comment that my Optimus D5 PWM pump/reservoir also just had the speed output die. Was working fine until I turned the computer off to install a flowmeter. Turned it back on and the pump speed is not reported anymore on any header in the BIOS or the OS. Pump still runs thankfully.


No Bueno.

I remember them saying they just source these pumps from a supplier and toss them in their own housing. I wonder if they were supplied a bad batch?

The Problem HAS to be with the Tach Pin/Cable. If you get a chance (I know it sucks because NO ONE wants to pull their Pump out after they have their build up and running) But It would be awesome if you could inspect where the Cable Meets the Header to see if Pin3 isn't inserted all the way (it can be easy to not insert the Cable all the way in the header, and if so its easy to fix), then check the cable itself for shorts or knicks, and then if no problems at all check where the cable meets the Pump itself as this is the next most common source of cable related failures, it could be as simple as the Tach Wire being slightly pulled out. It would be cool to get to the bottom of what the problem is, that way @Optimus WC can bring it up with their supplier and get this fixed. 2 of the exact same problem in the same batch, could mean their are more, and best to catch it before the rest of them ship. 1 Guy we could chock up to user error, but 2 experienced guys having the same issue happen, definitely points to it being a supplier issue of some kind.


----------



## Keith Myers

I've already inspected the cable. The pins in the connector are fine and the connector is inserted correctly into every motherboard header I tried. I pulled the sensor wire out of the connector to hook it up to my scopemeter to see if I could see the tach pulses. Inconclusive. No proper square wave or anything resembling a proper waveform though did see a signal of some sort that was fluctuating around 172-180Hz. Don't know if that was just a third harmonic of AC 60Hz frequency or not since I was using just the meter leads and not a proper oscilloscope probe with a ground.

When I enabled a motherboard header for PWM control and did the fan calibration it knocked the pump speed down so at least the PWM wire is still good. But I don't use the PWM feature of the pump. I just run it at full speed on straight +12V DC.

I looked at where the wiring enters the bottom of the pump and don't see anyway to visualize where it connects to the pump internals other than completely tearing the pump apart to remove it from the housing and take the bottom plate off the pump. No way other than a complete pump disassembly. 

It could be potted for all that I know and almost impossible to repair. Anyone have pictures of the internal wiring of the pump for reference?

[Edit] OK, it is easy to blow out the transistor driving the rpm circuit if you plug the connector into the fan header and miss by one position and apply 12V to the sensor pin.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1631261-ek-d5-g2-rpm-problem-solution-inside.html

But I am sure it was pinned correctly because of the plastic locating tab and I had it all back together before I turned anything back on and first thing was to look at the BIOS readings. That is when I realized my 4800rpm on the AIO/Pump header was missing. But it is likely the failure point since I don't see any break in the wire and the connector pin is correctly located in the connector. So probably will chuck the failure up to operator error somehow unless a lot more people complain of the same failure. Which goes back to the bad batch scenario.


----------



## oreonutz

Keith Myers said:


> I've already inspected the cable. The pins in the connector are fine and the connector is inserted correctly into every motherboard header I tried. I pulled the sensor wire out of the connector to hook it up to my scopemeter to see if I could see the tach pulses. Inconclusive. No proper square wave or anything resembling a proper waveform though did see a signal of some sort that was fluctuating around 172-180Hz. Don't know if that was just a third harmonic of AC 60Hz frequency or not since I was using just the meter leads and not a proper oscilloscope probe with a ground.
> 
> When I enabled a motherboard header for PWM control and did the fan calibration it knocked the pump speed down so at least the PWM wire is still good. But I don't use the PWM feature of the pump. I just run it at full speed on straight +12V DC.
> 
> I looked at where the wiring enters the bottom of the pump and don't see anyway to visualize where it connects to the pump internals other than completely tearing the pump apart to remove it from the housing and take the bottom plate off the pump. No way other than a complete pump disassembly.
> 
> It could be potted for all that I know and almost impossible to repair. Anyone have pictures of the internal wiring of the pump for reference?
> 
> [Edit] OK, it is easy to blow out the transistor driving the rpm circuit if you plug the connector into the fan header and miss by one position and apply 12V to the sensor pin.
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1631261-ek-d5-g2-rpm-problem-solution-inside.html
> 
> But I am sure it was pinned correctly because of the plastic locating tab and I had it all back together before I turned anything back on and first thing was to look at the BIOS readings. That is when I realized my 4800rpm on the AIO/Pump header was missing. But it is likely the failure point since I don't see any break in the wire and the connector pin is correctly located in the connector. So probably will chuck the failure up to operator error somehow unless a lot more people complain of the same failure. Which goes back to the bad batch scenario.


Great deep dive. Damn. So either the transistor on the RPM Circuit did somehow blow out (And I seriously doubt you accidentally connected it wrong) or their is an issue inside of the housing itself, if so most likely not Optimus' fault, but they would want to get in touch with the supplier and have them address it, before it becomes a bigger issue IF more people come out with this problem. 2 People in 2 days is not good, but if no one else has the issue, could just be a fluke.


----------



## jcleary47

Just installed the Optimus Foundation on my 3700x. Holy cow what an improvement. GRANTED, I discovered that my EK Velocity waterblock clearly had issues (seemed a little TOO concave.

Anyway, with the EK block I was getting temps of 85c to 90c under Aida64 stress tests while my water temp was only around 28c or so, even after multiple re-seatings, etc. So something wasn't right with it to begin with.

Fast forward to now with the Optimus block, I'm getting 70-72 in the same stress test, with water temp at 28c and ambient (room) temp at 75c. Needless to say I'm thrilled to have my CPU temp back under control. 

I'm not saying the Optimus lowered my temps a straight up 15-20 degrees because I think my EK block was screwed, but the fact this one works as it should leaves me happy!

The only bummer is the inlet doesn't quite line up with my distro plate so my tube is at an angle now


----------



## farpetrad

Wow Keith great work. My pump also has issues but I do get the rpm. Mines really odd I have it set to run a constant 3500rpm which is about .65gpm in my loop but if you watch the speed graphs or look in the data logs you will see it drop anywhere from 200-2k rpms for a second or two and then shoot up over 3500 to max and go back to 3500 and show the regular +/- 15rpms you typically see. It’s a constant thing every other minute or so. This occurs while plugged into my mb pump header, the 1000D commander pro and the other commander pro I have. I did have the damaged wire but I stripped it and heat wrapped it and saw no damage. I also just inspected the pins and they look fully seated and connected. Everything runs fine but I did connect an alarm cable for emergency shutdown should it fail. Optimus already has a replacement on the way so I really appreciate them getting their customer service game improved and hope they can help anyone else just as fast.


----------



## Optimus WC

jcleary47 said:


> ...Optimus lowered my temps a straight up 15-20 degrees...


Great quote, going on the website!


----------



## Jpmboy

that's film critic excerpt stuff right there.


----------



## Cozmos

Anyone know the measurement of the inlet to outlet centers on the AM4 Foundation Block? Trying to find the dimension similar to one shown here (https://i.imgur.com/rvyu1fp.jpg) for 29.2mm. Trying to see if my distro plate lines up better with the Optimus Block. Thanks in advance and I'm glad we're seeing blocks ship out.

@Optimus WC, why is the M.2 Passive cooler available for purchase on Newegg, but nowhere else including your own website? Or I could just be dumb and I'm not seeing it. Link on Newegg: https://www.newegg.com/p/37B-004V-00006?Item=9SIAM8KA9K2290


----------



## skupples

probably because it says "Direct from" which probably means newegg doesn't report stock.


----------



## Optimus WC

Cozmos said:


> Anyone know the measurement of the inlet to outlet centers on the AM4 Foundation Block? Trying to find the dimension similar to one shown here (https://i.imgur.com/rvyu1fp.jpg) for 29.2mm. Trying to see if my distro plate lines up better with the Optimus Block. Thanks in advance and I'm glad we're seeing blocks ship out.
> 
> @Optimus WC, why is the M.2 Passive cooler available for purchase on Newegg, but nowhere else including your own website? Or I could just be dumb and I'm not seeing it. Link on Newegg: https://www.newegg.com/p/37B-004V-00006?Item=9SIAM8KA9K2290


I'm measuring 33mm, but I'd need an engineer to get the real number from CAD. 

For the M.2...yeah, it's something we put up on Newegg, don't really want to sell them much right now  they're kinda a pain to do (the thermal pads) and were focusing more on products with liquid channels and serious performance


----------



## Cozmos

Thank you for the quick reply! Even a rough estimate is just fine and that is roughly what I'm looking for.


----------



## dwolvin

Huh, that's a pretty nice M.2 cooler. I wonder PCIe 4.0 will start to need those or if they will stay cosmetic.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> I'm measuring 33mm, but I'd need an engineer to get the real number from CAD.
> 
> *For the M.2...yeah, it's something we put up on Newegg, don't really want to sell them much right now  they're kinda a pain to do (the thermal pads) and were focusing more on products with liquid channels and serious performance *


Hi,
Then water block that bad boy


----------



## Optimus WC

dwolvin said:


> Huh, that's a pretty nice M.2 cooler. I wonder PCIe 4.0 will start to need those or if they will stay cosmetic.





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Then water block that bad boy


oh they entirely work  NVMe ssds run super hot, just a little metal on there brings the temps down like 20c. The PCIe 4 ones are monsters, don't think they can even run w/o a heatsink. But no idea if "performance gains" are to be had with better cooling!

And, yeah, def want to do a waterblock  But the form factor is the problem. Or question? Haven't seen a good implementation. `Also, really can't talk about this otherwise we'll be murdered by people waiting for preorders.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> oh they entirely work  NVMe ssds run super hot, just a little metal on there brings the temps down like 20c. The PCIe 4 ones are monsters, don't think they can even run w/o a heatsink. But no idea if "performance gains" are to be had with better cooling!
> 
> And, yeah, def want to do a waterblock  But the form factor is the problem. Or question? Haven't seen a good implementation. `Also, really can't talk about this otherwise we'll be murdered by people waiting for preorders.


Hi,
Yeah I settled on a blower fan type works pretty darn good 

https://www.amazon.com/Advancing-Ge...2+coolers&qid=1563300019&s=electronics&sr=1-3


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> oh they entirely work  NVMe ssds run super hot, just a little metal on there brings the temps down like 20c. The PCIe 4 ones are monsters, don't think they can even run w/o a heatsink. But no idea if "performance gains" are to be had with better cooling!
> 
> And, yeah, def want to do a waterblock  But the form factor is the problem. Or question? Haven't seen a good implementation. `Also, really can't talk about this otherwise we'll be murdered by people waiting for preorders.


Could copy Aquacomputer's design https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3401 but make ones for dual or more setups.


----------



## farpetrad

Sweet my replacement pump just arrived. Doing a quick visual inspection all wires are intact and all pins look fully connected. I was hoping the replacement mounting hardware would of arrived but it seems its lost in USPS, hoping it arrives tomorrow so I can tear down and get the replacement pump into the loop. 

On a side note who has experience with quick disconnects? I'm looking to get some so I can quickly remove things from the loop if needed and was looking for a recommendation. I'm using 1/2" od 3/8" id soft tube.


----------



## ThrashZone

farpetrad said:


> Sweet my replacement pump just arrived. Doing a quick visual inspection all wires are intact and all pins look fully connected. I was hoping the replacement mounting hardware would of arrived but it seems its lost in USPS, hoping it arrives tomorrow so I can tear down and get the replacement pump into the loop.
> 
> On a side note who has experience with quick disconnects? I'm looking to get some so I can quickly remove things from the loop if needed and was looking for a recommendation. I'm using 1/2" od 3/8" id soft tube.


Hi,
Koolance is best.

https://koolance.com/quick-disconnect-couplings-high-pressure-qd3h

I have the 3/8-5/8" system
QD3-FS10X16-BK
QD3-MS10X16-BK


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Koolance is best.
> 
> https://koolance.com/quick-disconnect-couplings-high-pressure-qd3h
> 
> I have the 3/8-5/8" system
> QD3-FS10X16-BK
> QD3-MS10X16-BK


QD4's can be a bit restrictive, though perfect for coming off a block. Elsewhere I prefer the QD4's


----------



## farpetrad

Shawnb99 said:


> QD4's can be a bit restrictive, though perfect for coming off a block. Elsewhere I prefer the QD4's


I mainly want to be able to remove the gpu(s) and cpu block without a full drain, how restrictive are we talking?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
QD3's seem fine 
Flow wise out the male into the female.


----------



## farpetrad

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> QD3's seem fine
> Flow wise out the male into the female.


So looking at them I see some that are like $16 vs $62 and look exactly the same:
https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...-panel-barb-for-id-10mm-3-8in-qd3h-f10-p.html vs https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...10mm-3-8in-stainless-steel-qd3h-f10-p-ss.html I can't tell the difference between them other than price.


----------



## ThrashZone

farpetrad said:


> So looking at them I see some that are like $16 vs $62 and look exactly the same:
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...-panel-barb-for-id-10mm-3-8in-qd3h-f10-p.html vs https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...10mm-3-8in-stainless-steel-qd3h-f10-p-ss.html I can't tell the difference between them other than price.


Hi,
Prices tend to vary 
Like I said these are the ones I have work just fine 
No reason to get them anywhere else than koolance where the best price is.
https://koolance.com/quick-disconne...0mm-x-16mm-3-8in-x-5-8in-black-qd3-fs10x16-bk

https://koolance.com/qd3-ms10x16-bk...ling-male-for-10mm-x-16mm-3-8in-x-5-8in-black


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> QD4's can be a bit restrictive, though perfect for coming off a block. Elsewhere I prefer the QD4's


Hi,
I prefer to have more control where a possible drip might occur so I use the inline ones so I can route to an area a drip might not cause damage


----------



## D-EJ915

farpetrad said:


> So looking at them I see some that are like $16 vs $62 and look exactly the same:
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...-panel-barb-for-id-10mm-3-8in-qd3h-f10-p.html vs https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...10mm-3-8in-stainless-steel-qd3h-f10-p-ss.html I can't tell the difference between them other than price.


The expensive one is made of stainless steel, the other one is nickel plated brass.


----------



## farpetrad

I think I figured out what I need, https://koolance.com/qd3-fsg4-bk-quick-disconnect-no-spill-coupling-female-threaded-g-1-4-black and https://koolance.com/qd3-ms10x13-bk...ling-male-for-10mm-x-13mm-3-8in-x-1-2in-black, would be easier if they came in sets as well


----------



## Optimus WC

farpetrad said:


> I think I figured out what I need, https://koolance.com/qd3-fsg4-bk-quick-disconnect-no-spill-coupling-female-threaded-g-1-4-black and https://koolance.com/qd3-ms10x13-bk...ling-male-for-10mm-x-13mm-3-8in-x-1-2in-black, would be easier if they came in sets as well


Hey so we have opinions about CDCs  The best on the market are by CPC https://www.cpcworldwide.com/

The NS4s are the ones EK uses and they're really good. The LQ4 are amazing, really really well made. theyre like the Optimus of QDCs 

The issue with Koolance ones are they will flake quickly. The blacks flake instantly, the nickel ones pretty quickly.


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Hey so we have opinions about CDCs  The best on the market are by CPC https://www.cpcworldwide.com/
> 
> The NS4s are the ones EK uses and they're really good. The LQ4 are amazing, really really well made. theyre like the Optimus of QDCs
> 
> The issue with Koolance ones are they will flake quickly. The blacks flake instantly, the nickel ones pretty quickly.


100% Agree. I also have been using CPC's QDC's pretty much exclusively, Also NS4's as @Optimus WC recommend, and they are some of the best I have used in terms of reliability, Quality, and ease of use.

Koolance were some of the only ones I had left to try that come highly recommended, so I just bought A Batch of 4 Pairs of QD3's and a batch of 4 Pairs of QD4's to see how these perform on the bench's they are going on for the next year. I had heard of the flaking that Optimus has talked about, I did notice that on the Swiftech ones I had Previously, and heard that could be a problem on the Koolance's but I will only be using Distilled Water and Biocide, so I am wondering if that will make a difference (I bought Black).

The Biggest reason why I wanted to branch out was because I like the Idea of Plugging the QDC Directly into the Block, or Frame, which I can't do with the NS4's. But in terms of Price, Quality, and Reliability, you really can't go wrong with the CPC's, especially if you get them direct from a CPC supplier (They have a different Color Hue then the Ones from EK, and seem to have slightly more responsive Release Mechanism in them, not sure if you have noticed this as well @Optimus WC?)


----------



## Optimus WC

oreonutz said:


> 100% Agree. I also have been using CPC's QDC's pretty much exclusively, Also NS4's as @Optimus WC recommend, and they are some of the best I have used in terms of reliability, Quality, and ease of use.
> 
> Koolance were some of the only ones I had left to try that come highly recommended, so I just bought A Batch of 4 Pairs of QD3's and a batch of 4 Pairs of QD4's to see how these perform on the bench's they are going on for the next year. I had heard of the flaking that Optimus has talked about, I did notice that on the Swiftech ones I had Previously, and heard that could be a problem on the Koolance's but I will only be using Distilled Water and Biocide, so I am wondering if that will make a difference (I bought Black).
> 
> The Biggest reason why I wanted to branch out was because I like the Idea of Plugging the QDC Directly into the Block, or Frame, which I can't do with the NS4's. But in terms of Price, Quality, and Reliability, you really can't go wrong with the CPC's, especially if you get them direct from a CPC supplier (They have a different Color Hue then the Ones from EK, and seem to have slightly more responsive Release Mechanism in them, not sure if you have noticed this as well @Optimus WC?)


Re: the koolance ones, the flake from friction. Actually, they all flake from friction. Nickel isn't good for that kind of sliding friction, hard chrome is the ticket (not regular chrome, which is trash). 

For the EK ones, EK originally used the standard gray CPC ones, then it looks like their more recent ones are black, though same style. Not sure if they still say CPC on them. 

The NS4 doesn't have G1/4, but the LQ4 has G1/4 and the LQ2 has G1/8, which actually isn't that much smaller, good for manifolds.


----------



## 98S4

@Optimus WC the more good things I see about the TR blocks the more I want my GPU block. On a scale of Holy water to the OG Primochill VUE how much longer?


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Hey so we have opinions about CDCs
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> The best on the market are by CPC https://www.cpcworldwide.com/
> 
> The NS4s are the ones EK uses and they're really good. The LQ4 are amazing, really really well made. theyre like the Optimus of QDCs
> 
> 
> 
> The issue with Koolance ones are they will flake quickly. The blacks flake instantly, the nickel ones pretty quickly.





Optimus WC said:


> Re: the koolance ones, the flake from friction. Actually, they all flake from friction. Nickel isn't good for that kind of sliding friction, hard chrome is the ticket (not regular chrome, which is trash).
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> For the EK ones, EK originally used the standard gray CPC ones, then it looks like their more recent ones are black, though same style. Not sure if they still say CPC on them.
> 
> The NS4 doesn't have G1/4, but the LQ4 has G1/4 and the LQ2 has G1/8, which actually isn't that much smaller, good for manifold
> 
> 
> s.


Hi,
Thought by now you'd learn exaggerations really don't help you, they just bite you went you're wrong 

The koolance male and the outside of it does not come in contact with water flow only the very end where there is a o-ring to seal 

So even if or when it shows scratches/.... it makes no difference since the female is all stainless steal inside it and so is the tip on the male 
Whether it's black or not the black will not get into the fluid so it makes no difference if it shows some wear.

Best way to limit scratches/... is to lubricate the male end before inserting it into the female dip it into fluid/... so just clean the female before reinserting.


----------



## criskoe

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Thought by now you'd learn exaggerations really don't help you, they just bite you went you're wrong
> 
> The koolance male and the outside of it does not come in contact with water flow only the very end where there is a o-ring to seal
> 
> So even if or when it shows scratches/.... it makes no difference since the female is all stainless steal inside it and so is the tip on the male
> Whether it's black or not the black will not get into the fluid so it makes no difference if it shows some wear.
> 
> Best way to limit scratches/... is to lubricate the male end before inserting it into the female dip it into fluid/... so just clean the female before reinserting.


Thrash you make watercooling sound so DIRTY!  LOL


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah thought i was starting to direct some cheap p**n but at least it's not ribbed for her pleasure like ek magnitude stuff


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Re: the koolance ones, the flake from friction. Actually, they all flake from friction. Nickel isn't good for that kind of sliding friction, hard chrome is the ticket (not regular chrome, which is trash).
> 
> For the EK ones, EK originally used the standard gray CPC ones, then it looks like their more recent ones are black, though same style. Not sure if they still say CPC on them.
> 
> The NS4 doesn't have G1/4, but the LQ4 has G1/4 and the LQ2 has G1/8, which actually isn't that much smaller, good for manifolds.


So you know I love me some CPC QDC's, we've had this discussion. But I to date have only used the NS4's, I love the ones direct from CPC (Or in my case through a local supplier), they love that I am using them for Computer water cooling, they are so fascinated by it, because all of their normal customer use cases are medical or industrial.

Anyways, I hadn't really branched out to any of their other products, so when you mentioned the LQ4, I just went off to grab some, went direct to the colder website to get a ballpark on how much I should expect my Supplier to charge me.

And then I saw this... $63!!!! For just one Female QDC!!! And I still need the male Side, The Male with Barb to go With it, another $43, thats $106 before taxes and shipping for just One Pair!!!

And I thought the Bitspower QDC's were expensive!

Not so sure I am going to allow myself to even try those, I will have a hard time justifying that one to clients when the NS4's are literally a 5th of the Price and Work just fine. LOL! (Let me know if you have a connection on price with those though, I definitely will be reaching out to my Supplier on Monday to see if their pricing is similar, but unless CPC just charges an outrageous markup on their Site, I have a feeling this is what to expect...



Spoiler


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> So you know I love me some CPC QDC's, we've had this discussion. But I to date have only used the NS4's, I love the ones direct from CPC (Or in my case through a local supplier), they love that I am using them for Computer water cooling, they are so fascinated by it, because all of their normal customer use cases are medical or industrial.
> 
> Anyways, I hadn't really branched out to any of their other products, so when you mentioned the LQ4, I just went off to grab some, went direct to the colder website to get a ballpark on how much I should expect my Supplier to charge me.
> 
> And then I saw this... $63!!!! For just one Female QDC!!! And I still need the male Side, The Male with Barb to go With it, another $43, thats $106 before taxes and shipping for just One Pair!!!
> 
> And I thought the Bitspower QDC's were expensive!
> 
> Not so sure I am going to allow myself to even try those, I will have a hard time justifying that one to clients when the NS4's are literally a 5th of the Price and Work just fine. LOL! (Let me know if you have a connection on price with those though, I definitely will be reaching out to my Supplier on Monday to see if their pricing is similar, but unless CPC just charges an outrageous markup on their Site, I have a feeling this is what to expect...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Saw it too. I really like the look of the LQ4 but the pricing really scared me off. Sticking to koolance lol.


----------



## Optimus WC

Yeah they're crazy expensive. I talked to CPC about the pricing and I'm told they're super complex to make with virtually zero liquid released. I've used them and they are really, really nice. Good choice for super sensitive setups where no drops are needed.

Also, re: Koolance, some of what I'm referencing came from a premium AI PC company we worked with. They started with all Koolance then switched to CPC (and Optimus) because of numerous issues. I believe even with stainless they ran into rubbing issues that caused faults over time. Their solution needed to be rock solid, no tweaking to get it to work right. But for those guys, budget didn't matter. Or another $100 for the best qdcs was def worth it.


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Yeah they're crazy expensive. I talked to CPC about the pricing and I'm told they're super complex to make with virtually zero liquid released. I've used them and they are really, really nice. Good choice for super sensitive setups where no drops are needed.
> 
> Also, re: Koolance, some of what I'm referencing came from a premium AI PC company we worked with. They started with all Koolance then switched to CPC (and Optimus) because of numerous issues. I believe even with stainless they ran into rubbing issues that caused faults over time. Their solution needed to be rock solid, no tweaking to get it to work right. But for those guys, budget didn't matter. Or another $100 for the best qdcs was def worth it.


That makes complete sense. I think for now I will just stick with NS4's, I have them in just under 20 System's right now, and so far no issues at with them. There is only one client where they actually disconnect them regularly, but in that case there hasn't been any issues either. However, I may look into getting me a couple pairs of LQ4's to have on hand for new builds just to give the option. I know that the Pressure Increase they can handle is a pretty big deal, so If I come into a use a case that goes near that, then I can highly recommend these, but as is we Normally run Dual D5's, and the Pressure doesn't come even close to the top end the NS4's can handle, so outside having a tougher QDC, not sure the major benefit from moving up would be, there definitely isnt any flaking from the NS4's, there just isn't anyway to mount them direct to a component or manifold, which obviously can be worked around.

Anyways, none the less, I appreciate you putting them on my Radar, its always a good idea to know about the best for when a client will only accept the best.


----------



## tcclaviger

So, I've just ordered a Foundation, mostly out of curiosity.

I'll be doing some through testing on my gem of a 3900x, accounting for as many variables across numerous power ranges covering 75 watts to 210 watts (maybe 225) as measured at CPU Package Power (SMU) via Hwinfo.

Cautionary note, the dual CCD dissipates heat much better than single CCD, so this testing won't directly translate to single CCD Zen 2, but should give a decent idea.

Currently working on the baseline numbers for the Bitspower X370C6E lapped block. I'll get the Foundation numbers up late next week (covid shipping times willing). 

If you're curious about the actual C/W across a wide wattage range, and not the testimonial style "it dropped my temps xC", watch this space to see if you should expect improvements.


----------



## 98S4

tcclaviger said:


> Cautionary note, the dual CCD dissipates heat much better than single CCD


Truth. Temps on my 3800x are kinda crap. I'm interested to see what it does for you on the 3900 with the two CCD.


----------



## ppcli

ThrashZone said:


> Ricey20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So is it officially confirmed that I can remove the center o-ring for my AMD Foundation, since Optimus is doing away with it and it just restricts flow?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Yes you can remove the o-ring or just shave the horizontal part flush so they don't compress into the cooling fins so much
> Careful not to scratch the plexi if you shave them flush on the impression marks.
Click to expand...


Wish I know about this before. I was thinking that lip on the plex was causing the crappy heat/flow problems even with my dual ekpump. I haven’t touched the block since it was just so much hotter then the HK and wasn’t even close to the new ek.


----------



## tcclaviger

Baseline data is in, this is for the Bitspower block pictured at the end. This is a terrible block as delivered, the cold plate is bowed more than an 80 year old power lifter's back. Once lapped it performs pretty well (better than a stock EK mono).

Sitting on hands until my foundation and VRM blocks arrive to reconfigure the setup for more testing.

Test configuration is done as it is to produce repeatable results. Allowing P95 to "do its thing" in small FFTs creates massive data errors as different FFT sizes created wildly swinging loads from 130 - 200 watts on my cpu across the same run.
Once testing is complete I'll make some nice pretty graphs 
Water temp taken with a K-type Thermocouple, submerged in the reservoir centrally located.
HWinfo run at realtime priority to avoid tests drowning out sample rate.

Interesting how different tests conduct heat out of the chip differently based on what is activated in the CPU package during a specific test.

Daily OC is 103.4bclk, PBO enabled in Ryzen Master to restore dynamic clocking, and very interestingly returns a better C/W than the similar power fixed clock tests.


----------



## ThrashZone

ppcli said:


> Wish I know about this before. I was thinking that lip on the plex was causing the crappy heat/flow problems even with my dual ekpump. I haven’t touched the block since it was just so much hotter then the HK and wasn’t even close to the new ek.


Hi,
Yeah sigV2 I had issues with the bow foundation was great as is
But both I simple flushed that o-ring where the bite marks are shown to lessen flow restriction.

Heatkiller 4 pro and ek magnitudes are pretty close ek a little cooler maybe 1 or 2c 
Foundation slaughtered both easily on 2066 

Got a possible new toy reserved so 2066 might get put on the back burner for a while so I can play with it with the foundation and maybe sigV2 next weekend maybe good thing I have a back plate that came with the sigV2


----------



## pmc25

Optimus WC said:


> Hey so we have opinions about CDCs  The best on the market are by CPC https://www.cpcworldwide.com/
> 
> The NS4s are the ones EK uses and they're really good. The LQ4 are amazing, really really well made. theyre like the Optimus of QDCs
> 
> The issue with Koolance ones are they will flake quickly. The blacks flake instantly, the nickel ones pretty quickly.


I have some black ones that a friend sold me after 3 years of use. They're still pristine, except for scratches on lockrings from rubber protector slipping when I was using metal pliers to tighten lockrings.


----------



## Section31

I was just looking at them too but do they work with 3/8-5/8 tubing


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> I was just looking at them too but do they work with 3/8-5/8 tubing


Hi,
The ones I linked to do it's the soft tubing I use.
Koolance QD3-MS10X16-BK
https://koolance.com/qd3-ms10x16-bk...ling-male-for-10mm-x-16mm-3-8in-x-5-8in-black

Koolance QD3-FS10X16-BK
https://koolance.com/quick-disconne...0mm-x-16mm-3-8in-x-5-8in-black-qd3-fs10x16-bk

On another note 10900k picked up and returned a x299 mark 2 to apply to the purchase too saved 260.00 off the 574.00 :thumb:
Micro center tests items now they are wise to the warranty return/ upgrade ploy :doh:
Good thing the mark 2 was hurt when the 9940x & 1200P2 psu both went out.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was just looking at them too but do they work with 3/8-5/8 tubing
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> The ones I linked to do it's the soft tubing I use.
> Koolance QD3-MS10X16-BK
> https://koolance.com/qd3-ms10x16-bk...ling-male-for-10mm-x-16mm-3-8in-x-5-8in-black
> 
> Koolance QD3-FS10X16-BK
> https://koolance.com/quick-disconne...0mm-x-16mm-3-8in-x-5-8in-black-qd3-fs10x16-bk
> 
> On another note 10900k picked up and returned a x299 mark 2 to apply to the purchase too saved 260.00 off the 574.00 /forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif
> Micro center tests items now they are wise to the warranty return/ upgrade ploy /forum/images/smilies/doh.gif
> Good thing the mark 2 was hurt when the 9940x & 1200P2 psu both went out.
Click to expand...

I use those already. Got box full of them. I was looking at the cpc ones myself. I had black ones before but use silver ones because of the black flaking issues.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> I use those already. Got box full of them. I was looking at the cpc ones myself. I had black ones before but use silver ones because of the black flaking issues.


Hi,
Would be nice if you actually state whom your asking next time 
You just posted asking the air lol :doh:


----------



## oreonutz

Section31 said:


> I use those already. Got box full of them. I was looking at the cpc ones myself. I had black ones before but use silver ones because of the black flaking issues.


If you find yourself a Local Supplier, you can get the CPC NS4's pretty cheap. I tend to get them around $25 for the pair, sometimes cheaper if I buy in 10 Pairs or more. They have suppliers in every major city, they have 4 just in my city alone. And the ones that come direct from CDC seem to work a bit better, when you press the button to disconnect it forcefully shoves out the mate. But the ones that you get through EK are much more mushy, at least all the ones I have are (And I have quite a bit). My experience anyway. And I definitely know that I have never had any issues with them flaking. I just purchased 8 Pairs of QD3's, and I got black, so I guess I will find out soon if they are prone to flaking still.


----------



## farpetrad

Been fine tuning the Optimus Threadripper block with my loop and flow rate/fan speeds and got to a happy point.


----------



## oreonutz

farpetrad said:


> Been fine tuning the Optimus Threadripper block with my loop and flow rate/fan speeds and got to a happy point.


IDK if this has changed in the past year, because I have not tried it on one of my (Clients) Threadripper systems for about that long, but at least as of November 2019, HWmonitor reported CPU Package Temps from the Motherboard Sensors, and not the actual Tdie (or Tctl) sensors built into Ryzen. For this reason The HWmonitor Temps are almost always lower than what you will get when monitoring Tdie in HWinfo. HWmonitor could have changed this since then, but I would recommend at least running the portable version of HWinfo (It's Free) and checking that to make sure that your HWMonitor Package Temps align with the Tdie Temp while under load, so you can have the best information available to you when monitoring your chip. If it turns out its the same exact temperature even when under full load, then you know that you are getting correct info and can continue as normal. But if they still haven't changed the sensor it reports, then its definitely good to know so you can make sure you have the best possible information.

A lot of people don't like HWinfo because it gives an overwhelming amount of Information (Which funny enough is the same reason why so many of us love it), but the cool thing is HWinfo is completely customizable, so if you only want to show just Temps and Clocks or something, then you totally can do that (Shift+delete while highlighting a sensor will hide it from view, and you can select as many sensors as you want at once and highlight them at the same time, and then you can click and drag a sensor to move it around to where you want it, and then you can customize, change colors, add a temp to the Taskbar, even set alarms, so its an awesome tool to check out, and you don't even have to install it, there is a portable version free of charge on the website.) Anyways, just wanted to let you know just in case you cared.

Great Temps though!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi, @Optimus WC 
Can't wait to get the foundation and maybe even sigV2 on the 10900k


----------



## farpetrad

oreonutz said:


> IDK if this has changed in the past year, because I have not tried it on one of my (Clients) Threadripper systems for about that long, but at least as of November 2019, HWmonitor reported CPU Package Temps from the Motherboard Sensors, and not the actual Tdie (or Tctl) sensors built into Ryzen. For this reason The HWmonitor Temps are almost always lower than what you will get when monitoring Tdie in HWinfo. HWmonitor could have changed this since then, but I would recommend at least running the portable version of HWinfo (It's Free) and checking that to make sure that your HWMonitor Package Temps align with the Tdie Temp while under load, so you can have the best information available to you when monitoring your chip. If it turns out its the same exact temperature even when under full load, then you know that you are getting correct info and can continue as normal. But if they still haven't changed the sensor it reports, then its definitely good to know so you can make sure you have the best possible information.
> 
> A lot of people don't like HWinfo because it gives an overwhelming amount of Information (Which funny enough is the same reason why so many of us love it), but the cool thing is HWinfo is completely customizable, so if you only want to show just Temps and Clocks or something, then you totally can do that (Shift+delete while highlighting a sensor will hide it from view, and you can select as many sensors as you want at once and highlight them at the same time, and then you can click and drag a sensor to move it around to where you want it, and then you can customize, change colors, add a temp to the Taskbar, even set alarms, so its an awesome tool to check out, and you don't even have to install it, there is a portable version free of charge on the website.) Anyways, just wanted to let you know just in case you cared.
> 
> Great Temps though!


The temps are matching whats in Ryzen master just in a chiplet by chiplet way instead of the single temp display in Ryzen master. The Asus Zenith II Extreme Alpha board I killed showed the cpu temp and the package temp and you would see a slight temp difference between the two but this MSI board isn't as nice and MSI's monitoring software is broken so can only see it via HWmonitor, iCue and Ryzen Master and the 3 temps all match up.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Would be nice if you actually state whom your asking next time
> You just posted asking the air lol :doh:


No worries. That was my bad.


----------



## oreonutz

farpetrad said:


> The temps are matching whats in Ryzen master just in a chiplet by chiplet way instead of the single temp display in Ryzen master. The Asus Zenith II Extreme Alpha board I killed showed the cpu temp and the package temp and you would see a slight temp difference between the two but this MSI board isn't as nice and MSI's monitoring software is broken so can only see it via HWmonitor, iCue and Ryzen Master and the 3 temps all match up.


Even Ryzen Master doesn't Read directly off the Die funny enough. It used to. Well it still does TECHNICALLY, but it gives you an Average over an unspecified amount of time. The only guaranteed way to get the ACTUAL Real-Time Temp of Threadripper is by using HWinfo, because it is the only tool that hooks directly into AMD's Sensor, and provide the actual Reading (Instead of an Average.) It is very possible that HWmonitor FINALLY started doing the same after multiple requests since the Launch of Ryzen 1000, but doubtful.

Anyways, If you are curious I would recommend checking it out, and I am sure if you asked around to other Ryzen and Threadripper owners they would almost universally say the same, but obviously that is completely up to you. (The cool thing is you can also get other numbers that HWmonitor definitely still does not report correctly for the Threadripper SVI2 Sensors, like Current, Wattage, and the Correct Voltage - HWmonitor definitely still reports its voltage from the SuperIO chip, which is not horribly wrong or anything, just not as accurate as the SVI2 Sensor.) Anyways, Food for thought.


----------



## tcclaviger

HWMonitor is still trash, monitoring the wrong values, verified as of the time of this post using latest version:


----------



## farpetrad

Thanks @oreonutz, even better temps, the top left post of my mount is stripped so don't have the best contact on one corner, waiting for the replacement mounting hardware which looks like after going on a memorial weekend trip to Tx has finally arrived in Denver


----------



## tcclaviger

Nice farpetrad


----------



## Pinto

Just got my Sig V2 today and the manufacturing is great specially the cold plate's fins but i had to clean it with alcohol because i see a lot of residue. 
But i have the same problem about the very pronounced bow for my cpu so i did the "Trash mod" and mount the block without the center oring to have good contact with my cpu. 

Her some pictures and results.

First the Sig with my old 7980XE not temperature log because mount and unmount block with hard tubing is really unpleasant.


gif tata

Good contact with the stock block configuration.

10980XE with the stock block



Convex and convex is a no go lol

Picture of this 10980XE with my old supremacy evo



This time good contact with this convex 10980XE

After the Sig V2 mod



Good contact, so i mount the block in this configuration.

Here some quick results (room temp 23°c, water temp 25°.3c)

Supremacy evo



Signature V2 with mod



Great result, super happy!
So to end my quick first impression, great quality and performance but it's impossible to fit every IHS. It's great that we can "adjust" the block for our needs. And great that Optimus add the very good Kingping thermal paste for us European where it's impossible to get!
Sorry for my english ;-)


----------



## skupples

how bout them 2080ti blocks though.


----------



## tistou77

@Pinto

Very good this 10980XE and V2
The 2 tests are at 4800mhz, I guess ?


----------



## Pinto

Yes 4800mhz for both tests ;-)


----------



## tistou77

Pinto said:


> Yes 4800mhz for both tests ;-)


Thanks :thumb:

You almost made me want to test it, all things considered
Where did you buy the 10980XE ?


----------



## Pinto

tistou77 said:


> Thanks :thumb:
> 
> You almost made me want to test it, all things considered
> Where did you buy the 10980XE ?


I bought it last Saturday from our famous parisian's shop AbsolutePC


----------



## tistou77

Pinto said:


> I bought it last Saturday from our famous parisian's shop AbsolutePC


Ok thanks :thumb:

Not available in the "usual shops"


----------



## oreonutz

tcclaviger said:


> HWMonitor is still trash, monitoring the wrong values, verified as of the time of this post using latest version:


I had a pretty big suspicion that was still the case but didn't want to put it back on my computer (Even though I stupidly paid for the Pro Version 4 Years ago, before discovering HWinfo. :doh:

Appreciate you confirming that!



farpetrad said:


> Thanks @oreonutz, even better temps, the top left post of my mount is stripped so don't have the best contact on one corner, waiting for the replacement mounting hardware which looks like after going on a memorial weekend trip to Tx has finally arrived in Denver


NP! Glad to help! And awesome to see that the temps ended up being better. Once you get HWinfo dialed in to show the information you want, where you want it, it truly is an indispensable tool, and it uses very little resources. You can also do awesome thing Like Setup alarms and have them trigger scripts. Like for instance You can set it an alarm to trip after 2 seconds of being at just below TJMax, so you maybe 92c in your case. You can set that alarm to just be some kind of pop up. Then if you CPU hits the TJMax of 95c you can trigger another alarm, and set this one to be an audible alarm to get your attention if you aren't looking at the screen. You can even have it email you, or if you set up a script to do it, you can even have it text message you. Then, if the Temperature Exceeds TJ max, and sustains that temperature for say 15 seconds, or for however long you want it there, you can now have another Alarm Triggered, and this one can trigger a script that emails you, texts you, saves all your open work, and shuts down your PC for you. Its quite a large script, but its the fact that you can even do that, that makes this program awesome. Really it can't on its own save your work, or text or email you (Well actually it might have something built in to email you, not too sure on that), but its the fact that it allows you to trigger batch or ps1 scripts, or any program you want, and if you know what you are doing, you can totally write a script that will email, text you, save all open work, and shut down the PC. And thats what makes this program one of the best monitoring tools out there.

Plus you can hook up external screens and have HWinfo use them to display your info, which is another awesome feature. You can also have HWinfo setup on all PC's in the House, and have them all display each others info, so if you don't mind scrolling forever, you can absolutely monitor all PC's from just one PC in the House. And if you get a 3rd party app, you can even monitor your Computer from your Phone. So just cool stuff, its really amazing what you can do with HWinfo! One last thing, I even asked Martin, the sole developer of HWinfo to add in a Delta feature, which allows you to display the delta t, or difference, between 2 different sensors, in a sensor of its own, essentially allowing you to monitor the difference between Ambient and your Water Temp if you have those sensors in your system. So even without an Aquaero, say you had another Fan Controller that allowed you to create fan curves around HWinfo Sensors, you totally could use this feature to create a curve around the Delta T Sensor, allowing for super quiet operation. The possibilities are truly endless.

Anyways, I am super glad the Mounting hardware is finally almost in your hand! I will shut up now.


----------



## Keith Myers

*Zenpower driver readings*

I don't have access to any Windows monitoring apps. But I just revisited the zenpower driver and zenmonitor. I have a 20mV discrepancy between the asus-wmi-sensor driver and the zenpower driver. The zenpower driver uses the SVI2 interface I believe. Is the SVI2 interface the most accurate one now? Also the currents don't add up between the two drivers. So which is better do you think?



Spoiler



[email protected]:~$ sensors
asuswmisensors-isa-0000
Adapter: ISA adapter
CPU Core Voltage: 1.22 V 
CPU SOC Voltage: 1.07 V 
DRAM Voltage: 1.42 V 
VDDP Voltage: 578.00 mV 
1.8V PLL Voltage: 2.14 V 
+12V Voltage: 11.61 V 
+5V Voltage: 4.74 V 
3VSB Voltage: 3.33 V 
VBAT Voltage: 3.16 V 
AVCC3 Voltage: 3.33 V 
SB 1.05V Voltage: 1.08 V 
CPU Core Voltage: 1.24 V 
CPU SOC Voltage: 1.09 V 
DRAM Voltage: 1.47 V 
CPU Fan: 1962 RPM
Chassis Fan 1: 0 RPM
Chassis Fan 2: 0 RPM
Chassis Fan 3: 0 RPM
HAMP Fan: 0 RPM
Water Pump: 0 RPM
CPU OPT: 0 RPM
Water Flow: 0 RPM
AIO Pump: 0 RPM
CPU Temperature: +68.0°C 
CPU Socket Temperature: +49.0°C 
Motherboard Temperature: +27.0°C 
Chipset Temperature: +48.0°C 
Tsensor 1 Temperature: +216.0°C 
CPU VRM Temperature: +62.0°C 
Water In: +216.0°C 
Water Out: +30.0°C 
CPU VRM Output Current: 98.00 A 

zenpower-pci-00c3
Adapter: PCI adapter
SVI2_Core: 1.24 V 
SVI2_SoC: 1.09 V 
Tdie: +68.8°C (high = +95.0°C)
Tctl: +68.8°C 
Tccd1: +67.2°C 
Tccd2: +69.5°C 
SVI2_P_Core: 79.93 W 
SVI2_P_SoC: 17.39 W 
SVI2_C_Core: 65.22 A 
SVI2_C_SoC: 15.89 A 

[email protected]:~$


----------



## oreonutz

Keith Myers said:


> I don't have access to any Windows monitoring apps. But I just revisited the zenpower driver and zenmonitor. I have a 20mV discrepancy between the asus-wmi-sensor driver and the zenpower driver. The zenpower driver uses the SVI2 interface I believe. Is the SVI2 interface the most accurate one now? Also the currents don't add up between the two drivers. So which is better do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected]:~$ sensors
> asuswmisensors-isa-0000
> Adapter: ISA adapter
> CPU Core Voltage: 1.22 V
> CPU SOC Voltage: 1.07 V
> DRAM Voltage: 1.42 V
> VDDP Voltage: 578.00 mV
> 1.8V PLL Voltage: 2.14 V
> +12V Voltage: 11.61 V
> +5V Voltage: 4.74 V
> 3VSB Voltage: 3.33 V
> VBAT Voltage: 3.16 V
> AVCC3 Voltage: 3.33 V
> SB 1.05V Voltage: 1.08 V
> CPU Core Voltage: 1.24 V
> CPU SOC Voltage: 1.09 V
> DRAM Voltage: 1.47 V
> CPU Fan: 1962 RPM
> Chassis Fan 1: 0 RPM
> Chassis Fan 2: 0 RPM
> Chassis Fan 3: 0 RPM
> HAMP Fan: 0 RPM
> Water Pump: 0 RPM
> CPU OPT: 0 RPM
> Water Flow: 0 RPM
> AIO Pump: 0 RPM
> CPU Temperature: +68.0°C
> CPU Socket Temperature: +49.0°C
> Motherboard Temperature: +27.0°C
> Chipset Temperature: +48.0°C
> Tsensor 1 Temperature: +216.0°C
> CPU VRM Temperature: +62.0°C
> Water In: +216.0°C
> Water Out: +30.0°C
> CPU VRM Output Current: 98.00 A
> 
> zenpower-pci-00c3
> Adapter: PCI adapter
> SVI2_Core: 1.24 V
> SVI2_SoC: 1.09 V
> Tdie: +68.8°C (high = +95.0°C)
> Tctl: +68.8°C
> Tccd1: +67.2°C
> Tccd2: +69.5°C
> SVI2_P_Core: 79.93 W
> SVI2_P_SoC: 17.39 W
> SVI2_C_Core: 65.22 A
> SVI2_C_SoC: 15.89 A
> 
> [email protected]:~$


Most definitely SVI2. 

SVI2 is the Sensor built into the Ryzen Die itself. So anything labeled SVI2 is being Provided by the Core/IOD, and is definitely the most accurate Sensor for both Temperature and Power/Current Readings. The Asus WMI isn't horribly bad or anything, but those are all sensors being Provided by the SuperIO Chip which the chipset hooks into. Because of this the readings are not only often a little latent, but they also tend to be longer traces so the voltage readings tend to be either higher or lower than what the actual values are.


----------



## Keith Myers

Thanks Oreonutz. Will go with the zenpower driver for a test run then. The only thing I had to do was blacklist the k10temp driver as I think both try to access the same PCI device.
When I did that the k10temp Tdie driver reading in my desktop GKrellM monitor disappeared briefly, but then was replaced by the zenpower value. So that is a great thing. But the Vcore value is not picked up by GKrellM though. So when I look at the monitor I have to mentally add the 20mV to the value. Or open the zenmonitor app.


----------



## oreonutz

Keith Myers said:


> Thanks Oreonutz. Will go with the zenpower driver for a test run then. The only thing I had to do was blacklist the k10temp driver as I think both try to access the same PCI device.
> When I did that the k10temp Tdie driver reading in my desktop GKrellM monitor disappeared briefly, but then was replaced by the zenpower value. So that is a great thing. But the Vcore value is not picked up by GKrellM though. So when I look at the monitor I have to mentally add the 20mV to the value. Or open the zenmonitor app.


NP Keith. That is really weird that the SVI2 Vcore value isn't being implemented by GKrellM. I wonder what you could do to fix that. Unfortunately I am not where near an advanced user for Linux systems. I still have years of knowledge to learn there.


----------



## tcclaviger

Keith Myers said:


> I don't have access to any Windows monitoring apps. But I just revisited the zenpower driver and zenmonitor. I have a 20mV discrepancy between the asus-wmi-sensor driver and the zenpower driver. The zenpower driver uses the SVI2 interface I believe. Is the SVI2 interface the most accurate one now? Also the currents don't add up between the two drivers. So which is better do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected]:~$ sensors
> asuswmisensors-isa-0000
> Adapter: ISA adapter
> CPU Core Voltage: 1.22 V
> CPU SOC Voltage: 1.07 V
> DRAM Voltage: 1.42 V
> VDDP Voltage: 578.00 mV
> 1.8V PLL Voltage: 2.14 V
> +12V Voltage: 11.61 V
> +5V Voltage: 4.74 V
> 3VSB Voltage: 3.33 V
> VBAT Voltage: 3.16 V
> AVCC3 Voltage: 3.33 V
> SB 1.05V Voltage: 1.08 V
> CPU Core Voltage: 1.24 V
> CPU SOC Voltage: 1.09 V
> DRAM Voltage: 1.47 V
> CPU Fan: 1962 RPM
> Chassis Fan 1: 0 RPM
> Chassis Fan 2: 0 RPM
> Chassis Fan 3: 0 RPM
> HAMP Fan: 0 RPM
> Water Pump: 0 RPM
> CPU OPT: 0 RPM
> Water Flow: 0 RPM
> AIO Pump: 0 RPM
> CPU Temperature: +68.0Â°C
> CPU Socket Temperature: +49.0Â°C
> Motherboard Temperature: +27.0Â°C
> Chipset Temperature: +48.0Â°C
> Tsensor 1 Temperature: +216.0Â°C
> CPU VRM Temperature: +62.0Â°C
> Water In: +216.0Â°C
> Water Out: +30.0Â°C
> CPU VRM Output Current: 98.00 A
> 
> zenpower-pci-00c3
> Adapter: PCI adapter
> SVI2_Core: 1.24 V
> SVI2_SoC: 1.09 V
> Tdie: +68.8Â°C (high = +95.0Â°C)
> Tctl: +68.8Â°C
> Tccd1: +67.2Â°C
> Tccd2: +69.5Â°C
> SVI2_P_Core: 79.93 W
> SVI2_P_SoC: 17.39 W
> SVI2_C_Core: 65.22 A
> SVI2_C_SoC: 15.89 A
> 
> [email protected]:~$


Asus WMI represents output at the VRM, and also at the probelt probe points. It's higher to account for drop over distance and through the socket. SVI is very close to actual voltage at the CPU.

There's a good test I saw on reddit where someone used caps on back of socket measurements vs SVI and they were only about .003v off from SVI, except on an ASRock where it was more like .020v off.

If you're using the OC Panel, it will yet another voltage, which is commanded voltage to the VRM to output, this is 20mv higher than Asus WMI typically.


----------



## Keith Myers

oreonutz said:


> NP Keith. That is really weird that the SVI2 Vcore value isn't being implemented by GKrellM. I wonder what you could do to fix that. Unfortunately I am not where near an advanced user for Linux systems. I still have years of knowledge to learn there.


Rookie mistake. I hadn't restarted GKrellM. I thought I had. The zenpower driver SVI2_Core and SVI2_SoC voltages showed up.


----------



## sultanofswing

Getting ready to order an Optimus block here in the next week or so. When I order it do I need to add on the Bracket for socket 2011/2066?


----------



## oreonutz

tcclaviger said:


> Asus WMI represents output at the VRM, and also at the probelt probe points. It's higher to account for drop over distance and through the socket. SVI is very close to actual voltage at the CPU.
> 
> There's a good test I saw on reddit where someone used caps on back of socket measurements vs SVI and they were only about .003v off from SVI, except on an ASRock where it was more like .020v off.
> 
> If you're using the OC Panel, it will yet another voltage, which is commanded voltage to the VRM to output, this is 20mv higher than Asus WMI typically.


Asus WMI isn't bad at all compared to a lot of other Super IO's on the Market, there's is at least in the ballpark, but as you said it leaves the VRM then traces down to the SuperIO, it branches off to the Probeit Points from there, which is why the ProbeIt Points and the WMI Readings are damn close. But because SVI2 is literally being read inside the CPU, its as close as you can get in software. By connecting leads directly to the correct circuit on the back of the board under the chip, and then connecting those leads to a Multi-Meter you will indeed get a reading that is almost the same as the SVI2. As long as you are using small leads you may be able to get a more accurate reading from your probe, also with a good Multi-Meter it will have less latency, but short of doing that for Ryzen Based CPU's SVI2 is definitely the best readings to use to give you the most accurate picture possible. And yeah, ASRock still seems to not be able to setup their SuperIO Chip quite right, lol!



Keith Myers said:


> Rookie mistake. I hadn't restarted GKrellM. I thought I had. The zenpower driver SVI2_Core and SVI2_SoC voltages showed up.


Glad you got it working, we have all been there, just glad its working properly now!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I really like the look and performance (judging by the reviews submitted by others) of your watercooling gear, but please do something about EU availability.

For example after ordering some watercooling bits for my loop recently I really wanted to go for Optimus but could not justify paying 4x the price vs other products available here in EU. I ended up paying 70€ for a brand new heatkiller IV PRO full copper block for AM4 and just for comparison the cheapest optimus AM4 block is 119$ (which is completely reasonable for such great product)

But add 100$ for shipping and now multiply the cost of the product and shipping with 1.4 ( import and VAT ) and we get to 308 USD that is 280€ and 4 times the cost of the heatkiller, which granted does perform a few degrees worse, but to be fair I find the quality of their products has always been great build quality and everything else, as much as I have used those, so I could really not justify spending 4 times as much for optimus. 

If they were available in the EU without the crazy shipping and import/VAT optimus would of surely been the one I had gone for. 
And I dont belive I am the only one interested in your fabulous waterblocks.


----------



## Shawnb99

Also where's my dual pump? I don't even need the reservoir , just give me a dual pump setup.

Just do it already!


----------



## originxt

Pinto said:


> Just got my Sig V2 today and the manufacturing is great specially the cold plate's fins but i had to clean it with alcohol because i see a lot of residue.
> But i have the same problem about the very pronounced bow for my cpu so i did the "Trash mod" and mount the block without the center oring to have good contact with my cpu.


What page is the mod at? Gonna do maintenance on my loop and might as well try new things. 

Not directed specifically at Pinto, has there been any changes to the signature block v2 for intel recently?


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> What page is the mod at? Gonna do maintenance on my loop and might as well try new things.
> 
> Not directed specifically at Pinto, has there been any changes to the signature block v2 for intel recently?


Hi,
Nope no changes 
Only item you might consider is removing the center o-ring and see if it makes any difference 
Show remove some flow restrictions without the o-ring.


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nope no changes
> Only item you might consider is removing the center o-ring and see if it makes any difference
> Show remove some flow restrictions without the o-ring.


Gotcha. This picture concerns me a bit: https://ibb.co/GRJbZ15 . Might check with my ihs as well. Is the springless mounting system the new standard now or have they gone back to the spring?


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Gotcha. This picture concerns me a bit: https://ibb.co/GRJbZ15 . Might check with my ihs as well. Is the springless mounting system the new standard now or have they gone back to the spring?


Hi,
Yeah that is too much bow brother 7980xe hasn't got much bow at all matter of fact you might be best with flat cold plate version.
I had to modify mine to do well with the sigV2 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-269.html#post28391284

Where as the foundation fit like a glove on 9940x which has a good amount of bowl on it's top
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-266.html#post28388126


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah that is too much bow brother 7980xe hasn't got much bow at all matter of fact you might be best with flat cold plate version.
> I had to modify mine to do well with the sigV2
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-269.html#post28391284
> 
> Where as the foundation fit like a glove on 9940x which has a good amount of bowl on it's top
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-266.html#post28388126


Unsure with my 10980xe, will have to check. I plan to rearrange my rads to try and shorten up my loop so I get better pressure (minimum 80% pump or I noticeably gain temps.) It's extremely jank and I'm not a fan on how I looped it (it goes through the back where the cables are and out back to the front lol.) I think I might just go full positive airflow, I'm not liking my bottom rad being exhaust with all that hot case air. Shame I can't add a good exhaust fan to my 011D.

Maybe I'll get a better read on temps after the change.


----------



## Krisztias

outofmyheadyo said:


> I really like the look and performance (judging by the reviews submitted by others) of your watercooling gear, but please do something about EU availability.
> 
> For example after ordering some watercooling bits for my loop recently I really wanted to go for Optimus but could not justify paying 4x the price vs other products available here in EU. I ended up paying 70€ for a brand new heatkiller IV PRO full copper block for AM4 and just for comparison the cheapest optimus AM4 block is 119$ (which is completely reasonable for such great product)
> 
> But add 100$ for shipping and now multiply the cost of the product and shipping with 1.4 ( import and VAT ) and we get to 308 USD that is 280€ and 4 times the cost of the heatkiller, which granted does perform a few degrees worse, but to be fair I find the quality of their products has always been great build quality and everything else, as much as I have used those, so I could really not justify spending 4 times as much for optimus.
> 
> If they were available in the EU without the crazy shipping and import/VAT optimus would of surely been the one I had gone for.
> And I dont belive I am the only one interested in your fabulous waterblocks.


True.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Unsure with my 10980xe, will have to check. I plan to rearrange my rads to try and shorten up my loop so I get better pressure (minimum 80% pump or I noticeably gain temps.) It's extremely jank and I'm not a fan on how I looped it (it goes through the back where the cables are and out back to the front lol.) I think I might just go full positive airflow, I'm not liking my bottom rad being exhaust with all that hot case air. Shame I can't add a good exhaust fan to my 011D.
> 
> Maybe I'll get a better read on temps after the change.


Hi,
Okay my bad 10980xe 
Wow it doesn't have much bowl in the top does it either 
99 series were like bowls lol Intel keeps changing stuff freaking jerks.

I got mine early so it came with spring mount
I asked for a springless and optimus shipped one 
My foundation just came with springless mount so yeah I prefer it just be careful because with that much bow to fight it's never going to mate properly.
You push the chip through the back of the board first


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Okay my bad 10980xe
> Wow it doesn't have much bowl in the top does it either
> 99 series were like bowls lol Intel keeps changing stuff freaking jerks.
> 
> I got mine early so it came with spring mount
> I asked for a springless and optimus shipped one
> My foundation just came with springless mount so yeah I prefer it just be careful because with that much bow to fight it's never going to mate properly.
> You push the chip through the back of the board first


Should I ask for the flat cold plate then? I have the standard plate. Yeah, I gave up on the spring mount and used the springless they shipped me. **** was impossible to mount without feeling like I was gonna drive my screwdriver through the board. Tried 40% pump, crashed on r15 due to thermal limits lol.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Should I ask for the flat cold plate then? I have the standard plate. Yeah, I gave up on the spring mount and used the springless they shipped me. **** was impossible to mount without feeling like I was gonna drive my screwdriver through the board. Tried 40% pump, crashed on r15 due to thermal limits lol.


Hi,
Flat version is a totally different water block not just a different cold plate.
But yes I would ask for a swap out.

Just checked my two blocks against the new 10900k 
Thankfully a much smaller chip and fits better.


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Flat version is a totally different water block not just a different cold plate.
> But yes I would ask for a swap out.
> 
> Just checked my two blocks against the new 10900k
> Thankfully a much smaller chip and fits better.


Unsure if they would, it's been like.. 5-6 months. But I can always try I guess.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Unsure if they would, it's been like.. 5-6 months. But I can always try I guess.


Hi,
Yeah nice guy well worth asking just sub the pic as to why, looks pretty obvious intel changed the top of the chip yet again 

Good reason for optimus to design a more versatile way to adjust the bow in these blocks this one fits all is not working.


----------



## Optimus WC

originxt said:


> Unsure if they would, it's been like.. 5-6 months. But I can always try I guess.


Hey hey, so what's the issue? Read through a few posts, but multiple ongoing conversations. 

A couple points about the IHS:

1) Intel IHS differ from generation to generation
2) IHS of identical chips can be different
3) Heating of the solder causes the IHS bow to change
3) Our block, when installed, will compress the IHS and cold plate in ways to make better contact

So! The takeaway is just putting a CPU on top of the block won't remotely give a true representation of the contact. If you have a CPU with a regular IHS (not lapped) then use our blocks as normal. Also, just looking at an IHS doesn't give the true story of how it's shaped, because the dies underneath are shaped differently and our bows match the dies. Messing around with the bow based on visuals is a recipe for disaster, you can't go back from that. 

Also, my guess is if there is a problem installing the springless mounting, there is something else going wrong. Possibly using the wrong posts or having it installed in a funky way. There should be absolutely no resistance to getting them started. 

If you can post pics of the installation and then the paste spread, that will give the best possible idea of what is going on. 

Regarding "one size fits all" block design, well, there's so many considerations at play. After all, our Foundation block design works perfectly across Intel and AMD with the best numbers available  Are there better numbers to be had? Sure, but that's bare die and lapped blocks. 

With 10th gen, it uses a new solder, thinner die and thicker IHS. So we don't have enough data yet to say one way or another what the real story is. If it turns out 10th gen is some wacky deal, then we (and prob everyone else), will revise in some way. 

And, yes, we'll change out the block if it's not working. Ya gotta get that performance!!


----------



## Pinto

originxt said:


> Gotcha. This picture concerns me a bit: https://ibb.co/GRJbZ15 . Might check with my ihs as well. Is the springless mounting system the new standard now or have they gone back to the spring?


This pic is the 10980Xe, the 7980xe fit well without modification (other pic). I feel i'll end up like this when i unboxed the new 10980xe and the optimus two days after... It's not a big but it's not reversible either.


----------



## Optimus WC

Pinto said:


> This pic is the 10980Xe, the 7980xe fit well without modification (other pic). I feel i'll end up like this when i unboxed the new 10980xe and the optimus two days after... It's not a big but it's not reversible either.


So it's very hard to judge the final contact based on placing a CPU on a block A flat block will look like it's making good contact (since there is no visible gap), but then there is no pressure in the center. In fact, if there isn't a tiny gap on the sides, there will probably be a problem once the block is tightened. 

Really, the only way to judge true contact is looking at the paste spread (and after getting it a little toasty). It might seem strange, but the metals bend and conform. 

What about being reversible? Not following there.


----------



## Pinto

Optimus WC said:


> Hey hey, so what's the issue? Read through a few posts, but multiple ongoing conversations.
> 
> A couple points about the IHS:
> 
> 1) Intel IHS differ from generation to generation
> 2) IHS of identical chips can be different
> 3) Heating of the solder causes the IHS bow to change
> 3) Our block, when installed, will compress the IHS and cold plate in ways to make better contact
> 
> So! The takeaway is just putting a CPU on top of the block won't remotely give a true representation of the contact. If you have a CPU with a regular IHS (not lapped) then use our blocks as normal. Also, just looking at an IHS doesn't give the true story of how it's shaped, because the dies underneath are shaped differently and our bows match the dies. Messing around with the bow based on visuals is a recipe for disaster, you can't go back from that.
> 
> Also, my guess is if there is a problem installing the springless mounting, there is something else going wrong. Possibly using the wrong posts or having it installed in a funky way. There should be absolutely no resistance to getting them started.
> 
> If you can post pics of the installation and then the paste spread, that will give the best possible idea of what is going on.
> 
> Regarding "one size fits all" block design, well, there's so many considerations at play. After all, our Foundation block design works perfectly across Intel and AMD with the best numbers available  Are there better numbers to be had? Sure, but that's bare die and lapped blocks.
> 
> With 10th gen, it uses a new solder, thinner die and thicker IHS. So we don't have enough data yet to say one way or another what the real story is. If it turns out 10th gen is some wacky deal, then we (and prob everyone else), will revise in some way.
> 
> And, yes, we'll change out the block if it's not working. Ya gotta get that performance!!



For me it's not a problem it's custom loop after all. What is a problem for me at least is to mount, test, unmount, mod if it's needed, mount... Someone did that trick and it's working for both. Of course only put the cpu against the block without pressure is not relevant for everyone.
Temperature spread is good and max temp too (room temp 23°c water temp at the end 27°c):





Best case were certainly ended by using the flat cold plate, but as mentioned outofmyheadyo for us European order Optimus products is not costs effective at all but results are good! Maybe Optimus can offer the possibility to decrease package value to avoid import fees (think it's not legal but i prefer ask for a future purchase).


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> Also where's my dual pump? I don't even need the reservoir , just give me a dual pump setup.
> 
> Just do it already!


You haven't received it yet?? Strange. 

Lol, really, we can't do that until we've finished TR block shipping, GPU shipping, and then 400 other things people have requested. People will, in fact, hunt us down and kill us. 

But we do sell this dual pump option, but it comes with a reservoir above each pump and it's called our standard res


----------



## Optimus WC

Pinto said:


> For me it's not a problem it's custom loop after all. What is a problem for me at least is to mount, test, unmount, mod if it's needed, mount... Someone did that trick and it's working for both. Of course only put the cpu against the block without pressure is not relevant for everyone.
> Temperature spread is good and max temp too (room temp 23°c water temp at the end 27°c):


I'm a little confused. Who is mount/tes/unmount/etcetc? Modding shouldn't be needed, unless you just want to get funky.

And glad to hear you're liking your temps. Was there an issue I can fix?


----------



## Pinto

Optimus WC said:


> So it's very hard to judge the final contact based on placing a CPU on a block A flat block will look like it's making good contact (since there is no visible gap), but then there is no pressure in the center. In fact, if there isn't a tiny gap on the sides, there will probably be a problem once the block is tightened.
> 
> Really, the only way to judge true contact is looking at the paste spread (and after getting it a little toasty). It might seem strange, but the metals bend and conform.
> 
> What about being reversible? Not following there.


Said it's not reversible ;-)


----------



## Optimus WC

Pinto said:


> Said it's not reversible ;-)


Lol, now I'm all turned around. What is not reversible? Modding it or something? lapping?


----------



## Pinto

Optimus WC said:


> I'm a little confused. Who is mount/tes/unmount/etcetc? Modding shouldn't be needed, unless you just want to get funky.
> 
> And glad to hear you're liking your temps. Was there an issue I can fix?


Sorry for my english. I don't have the time and patience to mount the block stock, check temps, unmount, remove oring, test, unmount, mod... Hard tubing is really pissed me off
For me the contact is everything. Just add a terrible experience with a competitor block twos weeks ago with a direct die mount configuration which don't fit to my old 7980xe. I don't have patience this time, i preferred to mod the Sig right away ans it's works.
And for what you can do, find an european distributor perhaps? ;-)


----------



## Pinto

Optimus WC said:


> Lol, now I'm all turned around. What is not reversible? Modding it or something? lapping?


Modding the block i had lapped isn't reversible.


----------



## masterskop

@Optimus WC

Hi,

I just wanted to know if you are still producing / selling your water blocks. I went to Performance PCS' website and they had one in stock, but I think their stock number was off. I had an email today from them that I could ask for another product. I'm a bit bummed about it. Should I ask for a refund or wait until the product is restocked? Or should I cancel my order and order through your website if you have them? 

I'm looking for the black acetal / black aluminum amd cpu wb. Btw. What is the difference between tthe black acetal/black aluminum and the Pro ex nickel?

Thank you!


----------



## Optimus WC

Pinto said:


> Sorry for my english. I don't have the time and patience to mount the block stock, check temps, unmount, remove oring, test, unmount, mod... Hard tubing is really pissed me off
> For me the contact is everything. Just add a terrible experience with a competitor block twos weeks ago with a direct die mount configuration which don't fit to my old 7980xe. I don't have patience this time, i preferred to mod the Sig right away ans it's works.


Ah, ok, got it I think  With our blocks, there really isn't any need to do all the mounting and modding, etc. 99.99% of people get top results out of the box -- after all, we designed it that way  Only Thrash has gotten different results, but his results are abnormal anyway -- the Signature performs better than the Foundation in 99% of builds


----------



## Optimus WC

Pinto said:


> Modding the block i had lapped isn't reversible.


Makes sense. In the future, lapping the IHS is the way to go, our blocks are far more precise than the Intel IHS unfortunately. 



masterskop said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I just wanted to know if you are still producing / selling your water blocks. I went to Performance PCS' website and they had one in stock, but I think their stock number was off. I had an email today from them that I could ask for another product. I'm a bit bummed about it. Should I ask for a refund or wait until the product is restocked? Or should I cancel my order and order through your website if you have them?
> 
> I'm looking for the black acetal / black aluminum amd cpu wb. Btw. What is the difference between tthe black acetal/black aluminum and the Pro ex nickel?
> 
> Thank you!


Most definitely!  The blocks sell out quickly and we've been working hard to keep up with demand. PPCs is getting more in stock ASAP, so best to wait until it's back in stock there, we're sending them more right away. 

For the rest of it, the acetal and black is simply the outside color. The cold plates that touch the CPU can be either copper or nickel. There really isn't too much of a difference there. Just pick what you think looks the best


----------



## Pinto

Optimus WC said:


> Makes sense. In the future, lapping the IHS is the way to go, our blocks are far more precise than the Intel IHS unfortunately.
> 
> 
> 
> Most definitely!  The blocks sell out quickly and we've been working hard to keep up with demand. PPCs is getting more in stock ASAP, so best to wait until it's back in stock there, we're sending them more right away.
> 
> For the rest of it, the acetal and black is simply the outside color. The cold plates that touch the CPU can be either copper or nickel. There really isn't too much of a difference there. Just pick what you think looks the best


Obvious but not gonna void my brand new cpu's warranty ;-)


----------



## originxt

Optimus WC said:


> Hey hey, so what's the issue? Read through a few posts, but multiple ongoing conversations.
> 
> A couple points about the IHS:
> 
> 1) Intel IHS differ from generation to generation
> 2) IHS of identical chips can be different
> 3) Heating of the solder causes the IHS bow to change
> 3) Our block, when installed, will compress the IHS and cold plate in ways to make better contact
> 
> So! The takeaway is just putting a CPU on top of the block won't remotely give a true representation of the contact. If you have a CPU with a regular IHS (not lapped) then use our blocks as normal. Also, just looking at an IHS doesn't give the true story of how it's shaped, because the dies underneath are shaped differently and our bows match the dies. Messing around with the bow based on visuals is a recipe for disaster, you can't go back from that.
> 
> Also, my guess is if there is a problem installing the springless mounting, there is something else going wrong. Possibly using the wrong posts or having it installed in a funky way. There should be absolutely no resistance to getting them started.
> 
> If you can post pics of the installation and then the paste spread, that will give the best possible idea of what is going on.
> 
> Regarding "one size fits all" block design, well, there's so many considerations at play. After all, our Foundation block design works perfectly across Intel and AMD with the best numbers available  Are there better numbers to be had? Sure, but that's bare die and lapped blocks.
> 
> With 10th gen, it uses a new solder, thinner die and thicker IHS. So we don't have enough data yet to say one way or another what the real story is. If it turns out 10th gen is some wacky deal, then we (and prob everyone else), will revise in some way.
> 
> And, yes, we'll change out the block if it's not working. Ya gotta get that performance!!


Thanks for the prompt response. I should clarify, I meant the original spring mount. Those springs were real stubborn lol. I used the springless mount just fine. Once I redo my loop and the numbers are wonky then I'll go ahead and contact you. I think my loop needs to be cleaned because I'm hitting 80s on r15 on a 4.6ghz OC. Ambient water 34c.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Thanks for the prompt response. I should clarify, I meant the original spring mount. Those springs were real stubborn lol. I used the springless mount just fine. Once I redo my loop and the numbers are wonky then I'll go ahead and contact you. I think my loop needs to be cleaned because I'm hitting 80s on r15 on a 4.6ghz OC. Ambient water 34c.


Hi,
Best way to judge good contact is high and lowest max core temperature 
If you're within 10c you're good.
If not then it's not good 

I've seen up to 20c difference between highest and lowest max core temps = very bad contact.
Use blender opendata cpu only test and render just classroom will give you a good idea of what's going on.

https://opendata.blender.org/


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Best way to judge good contact is high and lowest max core temperature
> If you're within 10c you're good.
> If not then it's not good
> 
> I've seen up to 20c difference between highest and lowest max core temps = very bad contact.
> Use blender opendata cpu only test and render just classroom will give you a good idea of what's going on.
> 
> https://opendata.blender.org/


Oh I've already determined my numbers are garbage. I did my testing back in jan/feb and the numbers were usually 15~ to over 20+. I tried remounting several times and it didn't do much. I think either the stim applied is poorly covered or the ihs is really lumpy. I might buy some pressure paper to check but we'll see.

Unsure if intel has more 10980xe's to give out even if I were to use the insurance.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Oh I've already determined my numbers are garbage. I did my testing back in jan/feb and the numbers were usually 15~ to over 20+. I tried remounting several times and it didn't do much. I think either the stim applied is poorly covered or the ihs is really lumpy. I might buy some pressure paper to check but we'll see.
> 
> Unsure if intel has more 10980xe's to give out even if I were to use the insurance.


Hi,
Doubt it's the chip 
Water block cools it if no good contact it can't.

10900k thankfully is a much smaller chip so I think it will do okay on it's nearly flat cpu top.

Paste in the end is usually only good for 1-3c difference from worst to so called best 
I use nt-h1 primarily it's good cheap easy to get paste.

So yeah remount all you want too but in the end your image shows the issue clear as day = way too much bow.

Not sure how many times optimus has said it 
But he's said many times sigV2 has little to no flex on the cold plate.

Take another image of the chip with a straight edge across corner to corner.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Think @Optimus WC needs to try and see if a shim and thicker o-ring on the cold plate mount area can be used to lessen the bow easily.
Or do all this in the cold plate with a little thicker area around the outside.


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> So yeah remount all you want too but in the end your image shows the issue clear as day = way too much bow.
> 
> Not sure how many times optimus has said it
> But he's said many times sigV2 has little to no flex on the cold plate.


Thrash -- you're killing me  

Re: cold plate flex, I believe I've said it's the opposite. There is quite a bit of flex. 

Also, any test with a straight edge won't give a good representation of the final contact area. Or even how the chip is actually warped. Eyeballing isn't remotely accurate enough. Esp since IHS are concave -- it'll always look like the straight edge is flat.

And our blocks are already optimized for CPU IHS. That's how we get great performance (or one of the reasons). Those suggestions, while interesting, will only hurt performance. A flatter or zero bow will be worse performance (unless your block is lapped). We've tested this like 1000 times internally on HEDT, 115x chips, etc. We did a massive deep dive into the Threadripper contact. There is so, so much going on with this stuff than o-rings or shims. And any messing with the cold plate thickness will also be negative. 

That's not to say there isn't gains to be had in custom bows. And some CPUs can be really warped from the factory. But as general product design goes, trust me, we've tested this, the current design works


----------



## skupples

that's cuz you don't have thrash's eyeballs bro.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> But we do sell this dual pump option, but it comes with a reservoir above each pump and it's called our standard res


I'll take that option if you figure out an easy way to run them in series.


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> I'll take that option if you figure out an easy way to run them in series.


just run the out from #1 to the res return on #2


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I've always said too much tighening pressure and the cold plate flattens out other wise the center o-ring would never have any cooling fin marks on it









If you don't come up with a more adjustable bow design then you're a one size fits all and keep on saying tighten it more.....
And when it doesn't fit people will go elsewhere.
Or adjust the sigV2 bow like I did and make the damn thing fit better or return for refund.

Well if you don't have 20-20 vision this bow is way too much for 10x series looks like to me.


----------



## oreonutz

Hi,

Sounds like Thrash Master Flex Should Open Up his own Water Block Shop! Thrash Master Cooling, I like the sound of it.


----------



## ThrashZone

oreonutz said:


> Hi,
> 
> Sounds like Thrash Master Flex Should Open Up his own Water Block Shop! Thrash Master Cooling, I like the sound of it.


Hi,
lol that 10980xe looks like my 10900k zero cup in it 
Tightening will have to be played with not just all the way down but then again chip being flat well :thinking:
Problem with over tightening is board damage.

So to me 10x-k series might be better off with ultra flat just like 79 series is.
10k is smaller so it may work, might not, I haven't got a board yet to know it looks workable on 2012 socket.


----------



## Optimus WC

So a bunch of points here: 
-At the end of the day, performance is what matters. How the pressure works between o-rings, cold plate and IHS is way beyond what people should/need to know
-And honestly there is so much more at play here -- flexibility of the copper cold plate, copper IHS, the solder heating, block material and mount tightening pressure
-For our block, there is no "too much tightening pressure" and no "the cold plate will flatten out"
-The cold plate should always be tightened 100%, it's designed that way. It could leak if not
-A bow is created in the shape of the jet plateau, the o-ring provides very little resistance 
-If the cold plate is fully tight, it will have a bow, which is what is desired
-You just don't see the marks on the metal plateau area, but that area is touching far more than the o-ring
-That center o-ring will have lines regardless of pressure. If it makes contact, it's going to have lines in that squish
-The cold plate changes shape again when it's pressed against the IHS
-And there is only one true adjustable bow design on the market (Vario) and our block performs better. Cool design, though, for sure. And shims are interesting, but that approach needs work for other reasons.

-Regarding that picture, it actually looks like the block is nearly flat, it's that CPU that has a crazy convex bow, right??

REGARDING 10TH GEN: 
-Pics below are with a FLAT Sig block on a 10900k
-That's from Bearded Hardware
-The 10th gen IHS looks more convex with a strange pattern
-There is still testing to be done with 10th gen
-Again, if there is some huge overall problem with 10th gen, we'll design to handle it


----------



## criskoe

Does the foundation block come stock with a flat coldplate?


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I've always said too much tighening pressure and the cold plate flattens out other wise the center o-ring would never have any cooling fin marks on it
> 
> 
> If you don't come up with a more adjustable bow design then you're a one size fits all and keep on saying tighten it more.....
> And when it doesn't fit people will go elsewhere.
> Or adjust the sigV2 bow like I did and make the damn thing fit better or return for refund.
> 
> Well if you don't have 20-20 vision this bow is way too much for 10x series looks like to me.


gonna agree with Opti... that chip looks like a moll hill.

I was gonna wait on the GPU block before installing these new HWLRs & my opti CPU block, but my evap rate has gotten curiously high in the last couple months even though I can't detect a leak anywhere. Seems wise to retire these nearly 10 year old radiators this weekend, & get the optiblock in. 

guess we'll see nothing but fail according to Thrash, since I'm putting the all metal on a 9700k.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Gotcha. This picture concerns me a bit: https://ibb.co/GRJbZ15 . Might check with my ihs as well. Is the springless mounting system the new standard now or have they gone back to the spring?


Hi,
Picture was subbed here 10980xe
Block is the only thing bowed chip is flat.


----------



## skupples

then you need to take a better picture. cuz that's not what that shows. and why you're so obsessed with what it looks like without pressure is kinda weird. 

doesn't matter unless both are made flat to match each other.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> then you need to take a better picture. cuz that's not what that shows.


Hi,
That's not my chip 
10900k being smaller doesn't look that bad.


----------



## skupples

throw it in paint, draw some lines.


----------



## Optimus WC

criskoe said:


> Does the foundation block come stock with a flat coldplate?


Hey there, all blocks have a bow, which is needed unless you lapped your IHS. Only a special edition Signature block had the flat cold plate design.


----------



## 98S4

skupples said:


> throw it in paint, draw some lines.


Even just holding a piece of paper to the screen it's clear the IHS is way more bowed than the cold plate. It also doesn't look like that cold plate is seated entirely if you look at the spacing along the bracket.


----------



## criskoe

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, all blocks have a bow, which is needed unless you lapped your IHS. Only a special edition Signature block had the flat cold plate design.


OK thanks for clarifying. I was a little confused by the product page and the talk about worlds flattest coldplate. I guess maybe im reading it wrong? Or its actually talking about something else? 

Anyways good to know that all your blocks come with some curvature. Is there any plans for a flat coldplate for foundation?


----------



## Optimus WC

criskoe said:


> OK thanks for clarifying. I was a little confused by the product page and the talk about worlds flattest coldplate. I guess maybe im reading it wrong? Or its actually talking about something else?
> 
> Anyways good to know that all your blocks come with some curvature. Is there any plans for a flat coldplate for foundation?


Ah, yes that has caused some confusion. Technically, it's the "smoothest" cold plate and flattest. So the surface finish on the cold plate is a perfect mirror from machining, which is very hard to do. Compare that to the cold plate from another company below, you can see lines which are the peaks and valleys from machining. Because of those peaks and valleys, the contact isn't as good as a super smooth plate like ours.


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, all blocks have a bow, which is needed unless you lapped your IHS. Only a special edition Signature block had the flat cold plate design.


BTW since you're active. 

my sigv2 came without the back plate. EK's will work in its place, right?


----------



## criskoe

Optimus WC said:


> Ah, yes that has caused some confusion. Technically, it's the "smoothest" cold plate and flattest. So the surface finish on the cold plate is a perfect mirror from machining, which is very hard to do. Compare that to the cold plate from another company below, you can see lines which are the peaks and valleys from machining. Because of those peaks and valleys, the contact isn't as good as a super smooth plate like ours.


I see thanks for clarifying.


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> BTW since you're active.
> 
> my sigv2 came without the back plate. EK's will work in its place, right?


I believe so, though we don't recommend back plates and sticking to our simplified mounting. Some backplates can conflict with fancy mobos, so they put pressure on parts you want to avoid. It's up to you though, no big deal either way (and this is with tons of people testing it). Also, there isn't any issue with bending motherboards or whatever, unless you use pliers to install your thumb nuts, and then you're gonna bend a pin first. The main thing is to make sure the thumb nuts are as tight as you can get them using your fingers. Tighten little by little so the pressure is even on all sides, not go 100% on one nut first. Oh, and use a super thin layer of paste


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> I believe so, though we don't recommend back plates and sticking to our simplified mounting. Some backplates can conflict with fancy mobos, so they put pressure on parts you want to avoid. It's up to you though, no big deal either way (and this is with tons of people testing it). Also, there isn't any issue with bending motherboards or whatever, unless you use pliers to install your thumb nuts, and then you're gonna bend a pin first. The main thing is to make sure the thumb nuts are as tight as you can get them using your fingers. Tighten little by little so the pressure is even on all sides, not go 100% on one nut first. Oh, and use a super thin layer of paste


yeah the problem is there are no nuts in this bag. so if no back plate is included, and no nuts are included, then what do the posts screw into? (btw, the insert says back plate, so that's what I asked about a back plate.. pretty sure I checked the site too, and it still stated back plate at that time too. I've had this thing on the shelf for a couple months now) 

What's this advanced mounting solution? 

I've got 8 posts, 4 chrome thumb screws, nylon washers. hmm, guess I can just go to the HW store. 

as for the rest... I've never really had any issues with comprehending "screw them down in a star pattern" I appreciate the paste advice!


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> yeah the problem is there are no nuts in this bag. so if no back plate is included, and no nuts are included, then what do the posts screw into?
> 
> What's this advanced mounting solution?
> 
> I've got 8 posts, 4 chrome thumb screws, nylon washers. hmm, guess I can just go to the HW store.
> 
> as for the rest... I've never really had any issues with comprehending "screw them down in a star pattern" I appreciate the paste advice! Grain of sushi rice kinda guy myself for these small chips.


No black nuts?? Hmm, we'll overnight you some. DM me your order number. 

And I'm sure you know how to mount, just putting it out there for anyone else reading along


----------



## skupples

TY - yeah, no black thumb screws. I edited my post to note the insert with parts list includes a back plate, so that's why I asked about a back plate  

One moment.


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> TY - yeah, no black thumb screws. I edited my post to note the insert with parts list includes a back plate, so that's why I asked about a back plate
> 
> One moment.


Cool, we'll get those out tomorrow. And sounds like you got an old instruction card with the old spring design.


----------



## Hale59

@Optimus WC, is there a dispatch backlog for the AMD founders edition? I want to order one, but don't want to wait weeks for it.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hale59 said:


> @Optimus WC, is there a dispatch backlog for the AMD founders edition? I want to order one, but want to wait weeks for it.


Wait, you want to wait weeks for it? That we can do  Yes, there is a backlog of blocks right now. We're making more and more constantly, so it's really hard to say exactly when an order placed now will get fulfilled. We're aiming to get ahead on production in approx 2-3 weeks so almost all orders will then ship next day.


----------



## Hale59

Optimus WC said:


> Wait, you want to wait weeks for it? That we can do  Yes, there is a backlog of blocks right now. We're making more and more constantly, so it's really hard to say exactly when an order placed now will get fulfilled. We're aiming to get ahead on production in approx 2-3 weeks so almost all orders will then ship next day.


I like to eat words. Don't be so optimus!

But thanks for the answer.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hale59 said:


> I like to eat words. Don't be so optimus!
> 
> But thanks for the answer.


Wouldn't be the first time someone requested a delay, or a delivery at a certain time. People traveling international I think. We're here to please


----------



## Pinto

98S4 said:


> Even just holding a piece of paper to the screen it's clear the IHS is way more bowed than the cold plate. It also doesn't look like that cold plate is seated entirely if you look at the spacing along the bracket.


It's my picture, the block was just put outside the box no mod if you think the cold plat not sitting well it's not my fault. My 10980xe is more convex than my 7980xe but the block is far more convex. I already explain what i've done, i'm satisfied and of course everything is tight as far i can manually do and no leak... of course.


----------



## Optimus WC

Pinto said:


> It's my picture, the block was just put outside the box no mod if you think the cold plat not sitting well it's not my fault. My 10980xe is more convex than my 7980xe but the block is far more convex. I already explain what i've done, i'm satisfied and of course everything is tight as far i can manually do and no leak... of course.


Good you're getting good results, makes sense 
@ThrashZone I hear what you're saying. I've gotten the brains at optimus (not me) involved. We're monitoring the 10th gen IHS situation like it's a hurricane  If you have any strange results with 10th gen, email or DM me so we can investigate. But I get what you're saying about the bow and the IHS. While there is a lot more going on than meets the eye, but we're investigating constantly.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Pinto said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's my picture, the block was just put outside the box no mod if you think the cold plat not sitting well it's not my fault. My 10980xe is more convex than my 7980xe but the block is far more convex. I already explain what i've done, i'm satisfied and of course everything is tight as far i can manually do and no leak... of course.
> 
> 
> 
> Good you're getting good results, makes sense /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> @ThrashZone I hear what you're saying. I've gotten the brains at optimus (not me) involved. We're monitoring the 10th gen IHS situation like it's a hurricane /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif If you have any strange results with 10th gen, email or DM me so we can investigate. But I get what you're saying about the bow and the IHS. While there is a lot more going on than meets the eye, but we're investigating constantly.
Click to expand...

I hope you guys are part of nvidia/amd early reference pcb program for next gen GPU. So you can have an 3080ti block out lot earlier.


----------



## Avacado

I just have to comment on the fact that I get to witness a hardware rep actually take interest in an enthusiast and their comments/recommendation for a product and actually get to mold development. I can't tell you how awesome it is to see. Thank you!


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Good you're getting good results, makes sense
> 
> @ThrashZone I hear what you're saying. I've gotten the brains at optimus (not me) involved. We're monitoring the 10th gen IHS situation like it's a hurricane  If you have any strange results with 10th gen, email or DM me so we can investigate. But I get what you're saying about the bow and the IHS. While there is a lot more going on than meets the eye, but we're investigating constantly.


Hi,
Thanks I blame intel lol not you guys 

But I tell you 10900k as flat as a pan cake
What is my options for optimus as of now 

Foundation not flat
SigV2 not flat

Buying a flat version is just starting over buying a new block 120.00 or 180.00 not very practical 
If there is a way to adjust the bow differences in the cold plate it would only be a simple thing to buy a new cold plate for 50.00+-

Cooling fins would stay exactly where they are sitting on the raised part of the main block performance would stay the same 

Side walls of the cold plate just get thicker cooling fin area stays the same and recessed now only a little longer mounting screws needed maybe.

How easy that is to manufacture I don't know but realistically it is better than the first option from a consumers point of view
Even ek sells a flat cold plate although their performance is not as good it is a cheaper route 

Frankly I just keep lapping the sigV2 down till it's flat if need be instead of buying a new one that is flat.
I'd rather leave that one on 9940x since it's doing pretty well.

Foundation bowed plexi top well this one could be replaced with a flat plexi and all is good.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> I hope you guys are part of nvidia/amd early reference pcb program for next gen GPU. So you can have an 3080ti block out lot earlier.



I hope so as well. Don’t want to be waiting a year for a block


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> Cool, we'll get those out tomorrow. And sounds like you got an old instruction card with the old spring design.


plausible, though there's no springs.

I appreciate it!


----------



## agentdark45

Section31 said:


> I hope you guys are part of nvidia/amd early reference pcb program for next gen GPU. So you can have an 3080ti block out lot earlier.


Oh man, this!

And hopefully the EU distribution comes to fruition before then  Got absolutely rekt by customs on my last order.


----------



## tcclaviger

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Thanks I blame intel lol not you guys
> 
> But I tell you 10900k as flat as a pan cake
> What is my options for optimus as of now
> 
> Foundation not flat
> SigV2 not flat
> 
> Buying a flat version is just starting over buying a new block 120.00 or 180.00 not very practical
> If there is a way to adjust the bow differences in the cold plate it would only be a simple thing to buy a new cold plate for 50.00+-
> 
> Cooling fins would stay exactly where they are sitting on the raised part of the main block performance would stay the same
> 
> Side walls of the cold plate just get thicker cooling fin area stays the same and recessed now only a little longer mounting screws needed maybe.
> 
> How easy that is to manufacture I don't know but realistically it is better than the first option from a consumers point of view
> Even ek sells a flat cold plate although their performance is not as good it is a cheaper route
> 
> Frankly I just keep lapping the sigV2 down till it's flat if need be instead of buying a new one that is flat.
> I'd rather leave that one on 9940x since it's doing pretty well.
> 
> Foundation bowed plexi top well this one could be replaced with a flat plexi and all is good.



Does removing the central o-ring allow the cold plate to flex enough to mate evenly with the 10900k when torqued down? It removed the central support from the fin area and may allow it to flex into place.

A paste test will reveal that.


----------



## Optimus WC

Avacado said:


> I just have to comment on the fact that I get to witness a hardware rep actually take interest in an enthusiast and their comments/recommendation for a product and actually get to mold development. I can't tell you how awesome it is to see. Thank you!


Haha, right on  We're small, so we don't have reps lol but we'll always try to be super responsive, especially when it comes to performance.



ThrashZone said:


> Buying a flat version is just starting over buying a new block 120.00 or 180.00 not very practical
> If there is a way to adjust the bow differences in the cold plate it would only be a simple thing to buy a new cold plate for 50.00+-


I don't know, we should do forced obsolescence, the Apple way. If only we could program the block to slow down after a year. 

Really though, we're looking into it. The sample size for 10th gen info is none right now, it's hard to tell what's really going on with the IHS. The IHS also changes due to heating. And even a flat IHS isn't flat, once it goes into the socket, the tabs that hold it down warp the IHS. There's a lot going on. 


What we really want to do is get a big sample of CPUs (like 10 or something), get crazy with metrology and actually see what the IHS looks like on the microscopic level and what variations exist in manufacturing. 

As for ideas about changing the blocks, appreciate it all  though the engineering is way more complex, there are different places we want pressure or thicknesses, etc. There are some way better options for achieving different results than changing the cold plate (if needed). If this is a trend with a mix of concave and convex IHS, we'll make modular blocks. Or we'll make them tailored if more performance is to be had. 

But first we really need more concrete info, because pictures aren't doing justice to the level of precision we like to achieve. 



Shawnb99 said:


> I hope so as well. Don’t want to be waiting a year for a block


So we don't have a contact at NVIDIA yet, though we're working on having on a relationship with the aftermarket companies. We're still super small and NVIDIA is very, very secretive. Even up to the day before a launch, they'll be like "oh, we might not do another gpu, nothing is confirmed, we'll see." 

All that said, our GPU delays aren't because of the lack of PCB designs, but just production from tons of orders and then other things. All the work we've done to make the Absolute GPU block work will apply to all future GPU blocks. Similar to Threadripper, the first 95% of development was easy, but that last 5% we discovered all kinds of improvements that kept getting added on. So unless NVIDIA does something absolutely insane with the reference PCB layout, we'll be good to go around launch time. 



agentdark45 said:


> Oh man, this!
> 
> And hopefully the EU distribution comes to fruition before then  Got absolutely rekt by customs on my last order.


Yes, once we're ahead on current orders and have a surplus of inventory, we'll set up EU distribution. 



tcclaviger said:


> Does removing the central o-ring allow the cold plate to flex enough to mate evenly with the 10900k when torqued down? It removed the central support from the fin area and may allow it to flex into place.
> 
> A paste test will reveal that.


So there isn't remotely enough info about the weird 10900k IHS for us to give a recommendation. Only that our standard Foundation performed very well on the 10900k for a show build. I'm hesitant to share numbers since it was all early bios and show stuff and didn't have much chance to mess around with it, but the thermals and OC seemed excellent, nothing that'd make us think good contact wasn't being made. 

Removing the o-ring from the blocks may or may not provide better performance. Yes, a good way to test is to simply put on paste, attach the block, remove, see what the spread looks like. Our system should theoretically work better than a shim style with the wonky 10900k IHS, though we still need more samples to truly know what's going on.


----------



## ThrashZone

tcclaviger said:


> Does removing the central o-ring allow the cold plate to flex enough to mate evenly with the 10900k when torqued down? It removed the central support from the fin area and may allow it to flex into place.
> 
> A paste test will reveal that.


Hi,
No rubber just squishes and cuts into the cooling fins and restricts flow that's all 
Pretty much why now optimus fazed out the center o-rings and say they can be removed from existing blocks with them.

Many people have said pictures say a thousand descriptive words 
10900k not really worth picturing it's not all that bad

That 10980xe though was telling good thing 10980xe was a limited release otherwise I'd likely have one and instead scooped up a 10900k on first sighting it may also be a limited release no telling I'm just waiting for my maximus XII formula to show up so the games can begin


----------



## skupples

just wanted to confirm i got my Overnight tracking info the morning.

thx opti.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> just wanted to confirm i got my Overnight tracking info the morning.
> 
> thx opti.


Hi,
What was that 6 month wait ?


----------



## skupples

I emailed them about it once upon receiving, and just now made the second attempt due to seeing him being active.

is what it is. block wasn't gonna get installed until 2080ti block showed up anyways. HOWEVER, i'm now paranoid about micro-leaks in my ancient rads, as i'm dropping a good 1/4-1/2 inch a day so its all getting installed this weekend.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
That don't sound good what were you hoping for optimus radiators too


----------



## skupples

no, i was hoping for the 2080ti block to not take a year to show up.

luckily, life's an animal farm. so i've been greatly distracted by grinding.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> no, i was hoping for the 2080ti block to not take a year to show up.
> 
> luckily, life's an animal farm. so i've been greatly distracted by grinding.


Hi,
Well you should be happy then it only took 6 months :thumb:


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> All that said, our GPU delays aren't because of the lack of PCB designs, but just production from tons of orders and then other things. All the work we've done to make the Absolute GPU block work will apply to all future GPU blocks. Similar to Threadripper, the first 95% of development was easy, but that last 5% we discovered all kinds of improvements that kept getting added on. So unless NVIDIA does something absolutely insane with the reference PCB layout, we'll be good to go around launch time.


Stop being so popular


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> That don't sound good what were you hoping for optimus radiators too


Radiators take a long time. Look at heatkiller ones, It took them 3 years (from way to early leak here in 2017) to get release that project hopefully around q3 this year.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Haha, right on  We're small, so we don't have reps lol but we'll always try to be super responsive, especially when it comes to performance.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know, we should do forced obsolescence, the Apple way. If only we could program the block to slow down after a year.
> 
> Really though, we're looking into it. The sample size for 10th gen info is none right now, it's hard to tell what's really going on with the IHS. The IHS also changes due to heating. And even a flat IHS isn't flat, once it goes into the socket, the tabs that hold it down warp the IHS. There's a lot going on.
> 
> 
> What we really want to do is get a big sample of CPUs (like 10 or something), get crazy with metrology and actually see what the IHS looks like on the microscopic level and what variations exist in manufacturing.
> 
> As for ideas about changing the blocks, appreciate it all  though the engineering is way more complex, there are different places we want pressure or thicknesses, etc. There are some way better options for achieving different results than changing the cold plate (if needed). If this is a trend with a mix of concave and convex IHS, we'll make modular blocks. Or we'll make them tailored if more performance is to be had.
> 
> But first we really need more concrete info, because pictures aren't doing justice to the level of precision we like to achieve.
> 
> 
> 
> So we don't have a contact at NVIDIA yet, though we're working on having on a relationship with the aftermarket companies. We're still super small and NVIDIA is very, very secretive. Even up to the day before a launch, they'll be like "oh, we might not do another gpu, nothing is confirmed, we'll see."
> 
> All that said, our GPU delays aren't because of the lack of PCB designs, but just production from tons of orders and then other things. All the work we've done to make the Absolute GPU block work will apply to all future GPU blocks. Similar to Threadripper, the first 95% of development was easy, but that last 5% we discovered all kinds of improvements that kept getting added on. So unless NVIDIA does something absolutely insane with the reference PCB layout, we'll be good to go around launch time.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, once we're ahead on current orders and have a surplus of inventory, we'll set up EU distribution.
> 
> 
> 
> So there isn't remotely enough info about the weird 10900k IHS for us to give a recommendation. Only that our standard Foundation performed very well on the 10900k for a show build. I'm hesitant to share numbers since it was all early bios and show stuff and didn't have much chance to mess around with it, but the thermals and OC seemed excellent, nothing that'd make us think good contact wasn't being made.
> 
> Removing the o-ring from the blocks may or may not provide better performance. Yes, a good way to test is to simply put on paste, attach the block, remove, see what the spread looks like. Our system should theoretically work better than a shim style with the wonky 10900k IHS, though we still need more samples to truly know what's going on.


Best news of the day. That means we will be seeing more new products like metric fittings soon. That's great news. I just got in order of BP Royal Blue Adapters/Extensions from BP Direct for the upcoming moving of rigs i will be doing. Going with Royal Blue Adapter/Extensions (visible area) and XE Nickel 12mm Fittings inside the system.


----------



## Optimus WC

Right on. I'm told we'll have the metric hardlines -- 12mm, 14mm, 16mm -- finished and ready to ship later next week.


----------



## Section31

Delete


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Right on. I'm told we'll have the metric hardlines -- 12mm, 14mm, 16mm -- finished and ready to ship later next week.


Wow. Put me down for two packs in xe nickel


----------



## Glerox

Hi OptimusPC, when can i expect my strx4 block for my sleeping 3960X. the block is silver amd the plate is nickel copper.

thanks


----------



## gwertheim

Not sure if you are aware but there is a couple of posts on [H]ard|Forum from customers who are a bit mad about their unanswered emails. They are saying over the past two months there has been no word from your company while you are offering giveaways on twitter.

If possible, can you please come and see if you can help them out with their purchase? 

https://hardforum.com/threads/optim...their-products.1992610/page-2#post-1044606048


----------



## Section31

Delete


----------



## skupples

gwertheim said:


> Not sure if you are aware but there is a couple of posts on [H]ard|Forum from customers who are a bit mad about their unanswered emails. They are saying over the past two months there has been no word from your company while you are offering giveaways on twitter.
> 
> If possible, can you please come and see if you can help them out with their purchase?
> 
> https://hardforum.com/threads/optim...their-products.1992610/page-2#post-1044606048


yep, getting ahold of them via their website provided email address is fubar.

i had to wait for them to be active here to get my issue resolved (no nuts for posts)

they responded quickly once asking them in the thread during a post spree.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> yep, getting ahold of them via their website provided email address is fubar.
> 
> i had to wait for them to be active here to get my issue resolved (no nuts for posts)
> 
> they responded quickly once asking them in the thread during a post spree.


That or you go through the right channel. I myself have helped couple people get there orders resolved.


----------



## Optimus WC

Responded over there, active here, now that things are kinda sorta back up to speed for us, responses will be better


----------



## Bakerman

Any company that fails at basic customer support is a no-go for me.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Responded over there, active here, now that things are kinda sorta back up to speed for us, responses will be better /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


Good to know. Hopefully your other product launches endup smooth. Delaying my rebuild till late summer/early fall. Maybe use your fan mounted reservoir too. 

Should be more affordable since there less metal used correct?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Narrow 10900k die it's working out okay 
Platform is like starting over from scratch so it might take a while to get some good saved profiles to test blocks with :/

Yeah that plastic black plate is a little wonky 
I still have a filter in so I'll remove it when I remove it.
XII Formula has a metal back plate on it so it's pretty stiff board.


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> Good to know. Hopefully your other product launches endup smooth. Delaying my rebuild till late summer/early fall. Maybe use your fan mounted reservoir too.
> 
> Should be more affordable since there less metal used correct?


We're working on being able to lower the cost of fittings  Otherwise, the difference between fittings isn't a factor, they all get cut from the same material if I remember correctly. 

For the bracket mount, we're starting with the "ultimate" one aka one that's the best mount we can make that offers basically unlimited mounting options. Then we'll do some cheaper normal ones. Not sure on pricing, but it won't be as much as those other premium machined aluminum mounts out there, but not as cheap as the thin metal stuff.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah your fitting are crazy high and not sure they even have a grove for the o-ring to fit inside of it either to help keep it close to the thread area.


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah your fitting are crazy high and not sure they even have a grove for the o-ring to fit inside of it either to help keep it close to the thread area.


We def have the o-ring. They are absolutely the best in the biz


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah those aren't the barb fittings but nice to see a grove in those


----------



## Optimus WC

Theyre all the same thread/seal design  First pic is barb compression, second is hardline our gasket vs others' o-rings, last is max pluggage


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
lol couldn't tell what that first images was from 
Yeah work on that pricing even offer some pure brass :thumb:


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> lol couldn't tell what that first images was from
> Yeah work on that pricing even offer some pure brass :thumb:


So everything is pure brass  then it's finished off with nickel. You want raw brass looks?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Save a buck or two


----------



## Avacado

Optimus WC said:


> So everything is pure brass  then it's finished off with nickel. You want raw brass looks?


Actually, yes we do. Copper preferred, but Brass over plated Ni for sure.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Not too bad


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> We're working on being able to lower the cost of fittings  Otherwise, the difference between fittings isn't a factor, they all get cut from the same material if I remember correctly.
> 
> For the bracket mount, we're starting with the "ultimate" one aka one that's the best mount we can make that offers basically unlimited mounting options. Then we'll do some cheaper normal ones. Not sure on pricing, but it won't be as much as those other premium machined aluminum mounts out there, but not as cheap as the thin metal stuff.


Good to know. I am using the Heatkiller Tube D5 with D5 Next so i am used to paying the higher prices (around 200USD). The prices of the distro plates and some reservoir really scare me. It's always performance vs aesthetic aspect and you guys do really good job on performance on your blocks. Money well spent there.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Theyre all the same thread/seal design  First pic is barb compression, second is hardline our gasket vs others' o-rings, last is max pluggage


It looks like the industry is changing the hard tube fittings designs. Maybe you inspired them. I saw that Barrows and Bitspower have completely changed the closing mechanism for there new hard tube fittings. There's this plastic/metal ring instead of o-ring. Can't wait to try out your hard tube fittings. Thank you for improving the quality of life part for watercooling. Every time i finish a build, my finger tips looks very dry/scratched.


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Not too bad


Nice! 5.3 all core  What block you using? 



Avacado said:


> Actually, yes we do. Copper preferred, but Brass over plated Ni for sure.


Good to know, once we have time we'll expand our colors!



Section31 said:


> It looks like the industry is changing the hard tube fittings designs. Maybe you inspired them. I saw that Barrows and Bitspower have completely changed the closing mechanism for there new hard tube fittings. There's this plastic/metal ring instead of o-ring. Can't wait to try out your hard tube fittings. Thank you for improving the quality of life part for watercooling. Every time i finish a build, my finger tips looks very dry/scratched.


Who knows  maybe it's just how terrible all the o-ring based hardline fittings work that is forcing a change. We weren't going to make one unless we figured out a better solution. I think I said when we released them that the entire industry will switch over to gaskets. It's the next logical step.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Nice! 5.3 all core  What block you using?
> .


Hi,
Modified sigV2


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Modified sigV2


So Sig no center o-ring basically?


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> So Sig no center o-ring basically?


Hi,
Yeah it's there I left it in and shaved the teeth marks off that the cooling fins leave on it.


----------



## Mxj1

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah it's there I left it in and shaved the teeth marks off that the cooling fins leave on it.


Shaving an o-ring sounds... interesting. 

How'd you do it? Photos?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Razor blade 
Flush with the scratched surface of the sigV2 bare brass zoom in this image shows it where I did and didn't cut the o-ring.
I left it round on the ends so water doesn't go that direction similar to why heatkiller 4 pro on the left has straight o-rings along it's cooling fins.


----------



## Mxj1

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Razor blade
> Flush with the scratched surface of the sigV2 bare brass zoom in this image shows it where I did and didn't cut the o-ring.
> I left it round on the ends so water doesn't go that direction similar to why heatkiller 4 pro on the left has straight o-rings along it's cooling fins.


Picture is worth a thousand words. thanks.

I may do this the next time I open my block up.


----------



## ThrashZone

Mxj1 said:


> Picture is worth a thousand words. thanks.
> 
> I may do this the next time I open my block up.


Hi,
Yeah you still get the increase in flow so only thing it hurts is the o-ring which it's an inanimate object so it won't scream if it's cut :wheee:


----------



## Section31

For those interested in fitting comparison. Bitspower Premium vs BP Advanced Fittings


----------



## Mxj1

What's it like working with those new fittings? I've used these Barrow fittings that have a similar 'grommet' type seal.
They were nice putting everything together, but removing them sucked... So much so that I changed all of the fittings to their o-ring design.


----------



## skupples

eww, it literally says premium on them.
terrible decision.

i'ma start wearing shirts that say "High quality double thick Cotton T"

definitely gonna side with ADV being a much slicker looking product. the chrome finish even looks nicer  

too much going on with the revolvers.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> eww, it literally says premium on them.
> terrible decision.
> 
> i'ma start wearing shirts that say "High quality double thick Cotton T"
> 
> definitely gonna side with ADV being a much slicker looking product. the chrome finish even looks nicer /forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif
> 
> too much going on with the revolvers.


Just need optimus to complete the comparison


----------



## phas3d

Optimus WC said:


> Responded over there, active here, now that things are kinda sorta back up to speed for us, responses will be better


I'm someone else who hasn't received a response from email or Twitter. I'd like to order the ABSOLUTE THREADRIPPER 3+ CPU BLOCK but need to know when it would arrive if I did. Please respond.


----------



## gwertheim

Any chance you are going to send your products out for reviews to YouTubers and such. I am interested to see what their take on your products are.


----------



## Optimus WC

phas3d said:


> I'm someone else who hasn't received a response from email or Twitter. I'd like to order the ABSOLUTE THREADRIPPER 3+ CPU BLOCK but need to know when it would arrive if I did. Please respond.


Hey there, we're currently getting through the threadripper backorders. We estimate that in 2-3 weeks we'll be able to ship out new orders. Obviously, we'd like to do it sooner but we're very backordered and ramping up production at the same time. 



gwertheim said:


> Any chance you are going to send your products out for reviews to YouTubers and such. I am interested to see what their take on your products are.


Once we can handle more orders, we'll definitely be sending out product for review  Now, every single block we make is going to customers.


----------



## masterskop

@Optimus WC

I pm'd you earlier today. Just wanted to know about the eta on amd waterblocks. Will the ones being sent to Performance PCS have springs? Are they needed?


----------



## Optimus WC

masterskop said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> I pm'd you earlier today. Just wanted to know about the eta on amd waterblocks. Will the ones being sent to Performance PCS have springs? Are they needed?


Hey there, so PPCS is getting more inventory really soon. No blocks have springs these days, they all use the new springless mounting


----------



## Section31

Hoping the new ongoing issues in the us don’t affect you guys.


----------



## sok0

Can you guys make a CPU block with the plate out of fine silver??


----------



## mgoldb2

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, we're currently getting through the threadripper backorders. We estimate that in 2-3 weeks we'll be able to ship out new orders. Obviously, we'd like to do it sooner but we're very backordered and ramping up production at the same time.


Do you have a estimate when the next batch of threadripper blocks going out and roughly what date range of pre-orders will be included in that batch? I got a order in for a black nickel threadripper block. I originally place the order for the threadripper block on December 24, 2019.


----------



## ThrashZone

sok0 said:


> Can you guys make a CPU block with the plate out of fine silver??


Hi,
Is a frogs ass water tight :Snorkle:


----------



## Optimus WC

So silver is something we like to think about  There is still a TON of testing to be done. Is it doable? For sure. Is it expensive? Oh yeah. Is the performance worth it? Maaaaybe, we'll see 

For shipping orders, we're making everything all at once. Since we don't do overseas batches of product, it's hard to give an exact ETA when your items will arrive. But we're aiming to get through all backorders (including orders now), in the next 3-4 weeks.


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Do it! If you were around then, the Cathar Storm G5 was silver and pretty much the holy grail of Socket A cooling at the time. 



Performance would likely be a mild incremental improvement over the copper Sig v2, but the cool factor is way high.


Bare die plus silver block? Hmm....


----------



## Optimus WC

Voodoo Rufus said:


> Do it! If you were around then, the Cathar Storm G5 was silver and pretty much the holy grail of Socket A cooling at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> Performance would likely be a mild incremental improvement over the copper Sig v2, but the cool factor is way high.
> 
> 
> Bare die plus silver block? Hmm....


The cool factor is crazy high  

The big question is what people would pay for a silver cold plate. We're talking pure silver (99.99%) not sterling (92.5%). Silver is way expensive, so we're prob talking a few hundred bucks over the regular block.


----------



## ThrashZone

Voodoo Rufus said:


> Do it! If you were around then, the Cathar Storm G5 was silver and pretty much the holy grail of Socket A cooling at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> Performance would likely be a mild incremental improvement over the copper Sig v2, but the cool factor is way high.
> 
> 
> Bare die plus silver block? Hmm....


Hi,
Put down a deposit and I'm sure they would


----------



## Optimus WC

Let's do a preorder for silver cold plates! Because preorders have gone so well in the past (shoot me now gif or whatever)


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Sig V2 is $180 base price. Make the silver one $300 or less and I think some would bite, myself included.


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> Let's do a preorder for silver cold plates! Because preorders have gone so well in the past (shoot me now gif or whatever)


put me 1st on that list.


----------



## Optimus WC

Voodoo Rufus said:


> Sig V2 is $180 base price. Make the silver one $300 or less and I think some would bite, myself included.


To give an idea of pricing, copper is $0.16/oz, pure silver is $16/oz, aluminum is $0.68/POUND. Obv price changes and that's just raw, not formed for machining. Our regular copper cold plate is $40 retail, so....yeah. If we ever did this at a price people could afford, there's no way we'd make any money, it'd be just a fun project


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Totally understand. A project of passion, not practicality. 



But then we don't always water cool because it's practical or cost effective.


----------



## mgoldb2

Optimus WC said:


> For shipping orders, we're making everything all at once. Since we don't do overseas batches of product, it's hard to give an exact ETA when your items will arrive. But we're aiming to get through all backorders (including orders now), in the next 3-4 weeks.


Not sure if this was in response to me but if it was, I am in the USA, Maryland so not oversea.


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> put me 1st on that list.


oh god lol there is no list, people!! Don't email me!! We're working on TR and GPUs and normal blocks we promise!!


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> oh god lol there is no list, people!! Don't email me!! We're working on TR and GPUs and normal blocks we promise!!


i just want my 2080ti block, yea.


----------



## Avacado

Optimus WC said:


> To give an idea of pricing, copper is $0.16/oz, pure silver is $16/oz, aluminum is $0.68/POUND. Obv price changes and that's just raw, not formed for machining. Our regular copper cold plate is $40 retail, so....yeah. If we ever did this at a price people could afford, there's no way we'd make any money, it'd be just a fun project


I could send you a few 10 Oz bars from my safe. Honestly though, I would pay for the difference.


----------



## Keith Myers

mgoldb2 said:


> Not sure if this was in response to me but if it was, I am in the USA, Maryland so not oversea.


I can only assume you had a nickel plated coldplate order as I believe there was an additional holdup in addition to the anodized mounting bracket holdup. I placed my copper/acrylic/satin black TR3 order on 30 Dec 2019 and received it 16 May 2020. Very satisfied with the performance. Get a real kick whenever I look at the temps for 90% all-core 4100Mhz BOINC computations and staying under or around 60° C.:thumb:


----------



## zGunBLADEz

@OptimusWC any consideration for independent "universal" vrm blocks?
I know its kind of hard to do at one fit all type of block but just wondering


----------



## Optimus WC

Avacado said:


> I could send you a few 10 Oz bars from my safe. Honestly though, I would pay for the difference.


Lol, thanks  The raw material isn't the issue, it's only time. Sooo many projects to do 



Keith Myers said:


> I can only assume you had a nickel plated coldplate order as I believe there was an additional holdup in addition to the anodized mounting bracket holdup. I placed my copper/acrylic/satin black TR3 order on 30 Dec 2019 and received it 16 May 2020. Very satisfied with the performance. Get a real kick whenever I look at the temps for 90% all-core 4100Mhz BOINC computations and staying under or around 60° C.:thumb:


Glad you're getting great performance! Yeah, we're pretty excited about the TR cooling

For shipping, we're able to make everything, it's just getting through the orders, it takes time, we're constantly making and shipping now, but hard to say exactly which order will go out when. 



zGunBLADEz said:


> @OptimusWC any consideration for independent "universal" vrm blocks?
> I know its kind of hard to do at one fit all type of block but just wondering


Yup, we'd love to do it. Of course, really hard to say when we'll get around to it, lots of other blocks to make first


----------



## dwolvin

Have the lessons learned on ThreadRipper been chip specific, or will there be an update to the Ryzen line?


----------



## Optimus WC

dwolvin said:


> Have the lessons learned on ThreadRipper been chip specific, or will there be an update to the Ryzen line?


We'll eventually do updates or new versions of the blocks. Some of the Threadripper tech will flow into other products, but mostly we'll update when there's additional performance to be had. Right now, our Foundation AMD is the top in the game, and we'd need to do a deep dive to squeeze out more performance. We'll do it, but not before we launch the rest of our products


----------



## qes27

Optimus WC said:


> Let's do a preorder for silver cold plates!


hmmm :thinking:

The new mounting screws showed up in the mail today so I suppose it's finally install day - see if I can stuff half a dozen fans, two rads, and a pump/rez inside this old Carbide 600Q case. Probably should've just gotten something new - trying to retain any semblance of a budget on a new TR build is a fool's errand.


----------



## Optimus WC

qes27 said:


> hmmm :thinking:
> 
> The new mounting screws showed up in the mail today so I suppose it's finally install day - see if I can stuff half a dozen fans, two rads, and a pump/rez inside this old Carbide 600Q case. Probably should've just gotten something new - trying to retain any semblance of a budget on a new TR build is a fool's errand.


"Budget"? Yeah seriously  Good luck with the build/stuffing


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah budget was blown with just the jump from 3950x to 3960x lol doubled so I said no way Jose.


----------



## Keith Myers

qes27 said:


> hmmm :thinking:
> 
> The new mounting screws showed up in the mail today so I suppose it's finally install day - see if I can stuff half a dozen fans, two rads, and a pump/rez inside this old Carbide 600Q case. Probably should've just gotten something new - _*trying to retain any semblance of a budget on a new TR build is a fool's errand.*_


HA HA HA HA HA LOL 

Got my new acrylic insert and mounting studs today too. Now I have to buy another Absolute D5 Reservoir before I do the surgery. What's a few more bucks in a Threadripper crunching rig.


----------



## farpetrad

Keith Myers said:


> HA HA HA HA HA LOL
> 
> Got my new acrylic insert and mounting studs today too. Now I have to buy another Absolute D5 Reservoir before I do the surgery. What's a few more bucks in a Threadripper crunching rig.


Isn't that the truth, would love another absolute d5 res. My TR updated hw should be here tomorrow and can't wait to try the new top and mounting system since I never bothered to remount with the replacement original hardware they sent (hard to justify doing so when your running 59-62c full load).


----------



## Keith Myers

farpetrad said:


> Isn't that the truth, would love another absolute d5 res. My TR updated hw should be here tomorrow and can't wait to try the new top and mounting system since I never bothered to remount with the replacement original hardware they sent (hard to justify doing so when your running 59-62c full load).


I know what you mean. Not much of a fire under my butt also for the surgery with similar full load temps. But the further 4° C. temp improvement with the new acrylic insert is very tempting to see how much more I can push my TR and still have the same temps I have now.


----------



## 98S4

skupples said:


> i just want my 2080ti block, yea.


 @Optimus WC Yeah, can we get an update on the GPU blocks? You've avoided it in your replies, and my emails for weeks.... I've had an entire build complete just waiting on this since February.


----------



## Section31

Delete


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> qes27 said:
> 
> 
> 
> hmmm /forum/images/smilies/thinking.gif
> 
> The new mounting screws showed up in the mail today so I suppose it's finally install day - see if I can stuff half a dozen fans, two rads, and a pump/rez inside this old Carbide 600Q case. Probably should've just gotten something new - trying to retain any semblance of a budget on a new TR build is a fool's errand.
> 
> 
> 
> "Budget"? Yeah seriously /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif Good luck with the build/stuffing
Click to expand...

Looks like im delaying my full rebuild in the s8 till fall. Thinking about possible triple rad (replace one gtr rad with combo of one-two rads from heatkiller upcoming rads). 

Your alternative reservoir mounting also interests me if it can horizontal mounting. Thats been one of my ideas i wanted to do in the s8 for longest time. In the process of selling off the heatkiller tube i still hold.


----------



## mgoldb2

Keith Myers said:


> I can only assume you had a nickel plated coldplate order as I believe there was an additional holdup in addition to the anodized mounting bracket holdup. I placed my copper/acrylic/satin black TR3 order on 30 Dec 2019 and received it 16 May 2020. Very satisfied with the performance. Get a real kick whenever I look at the temps for 90% all-core 4100Mhz BOINC computations and staying under or around 60° C.:thumb:


Great to hear. I got the shipping notification for my Optimus threadripper block yesterday. Originally UPS website estimated I would receive it tomorrow but now it says delayed. Guessing everything going on causing some delays with there shipping routes. I looking forward to seeing how it compares to the Heatkiller 4 Pro TR am currently using on my 3970x.


----------



## farpetrad

mgoldb2 said:


> Great to hear. I got the shipping notification for my Optimus threadripper block yesterday. Originally UPS website estimated I would receive it tomorrow but now it says delayed. Guessing everything going on causing some delays with there shipping routes. I looking forward to seeing how it compares to the Heatkiller 4 Pro TR am currently using on my 3970x.


Should see a really nice improvement. I was using the Heatkiller 4 TR4 Pro on the 3970x and switched and couldn't be happier. Went from 64-69c (depending on room temp as my office is south facing so gets blasted by sun all day) to 59-62c and thats before the new top and mounting hardware that your order should have included.


----------



## phas3d

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, we're currently getting through the threadripper backorders. We estimate that in 2-3 weeks we'll be able to ship out new orders. Obviously, we'd like to do it sooner but we're very backordered and ramping up production at the same time.


Are the fittings you sell compatible with EKwb's 16mm PETG tubing?


----------



## farpetrad

Sweet my new top and mounting hardware arrived. Going to drain and tear down, will get my qdcs installed in the rebuild  Heres to hoping for 56c


----------



## Section31

Have an question. How should i clean the cold plates. Also i seem to see some copperish spots on xe-nickel. Just making sure if it’s something i can clean up


----------



## Mxj1

My nickel plated cold plate also developed this yellowish tint like yours. I've cleaned mine with Dawn dish soap and an old soft bristle tooth brush.


----------



## ThrashZone

HI,
I would think that is the nickle coming off.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> HI,
> I would think that is the nickle coming off.


It looks like it but not 100% sure. It was only under distilled water and Mayhem X1 clear. Wonder what caused it.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> It looks like it but not 100% sure. It was only under distilled water and Mayhem X1 clear. Wonder what caused it.


Hi,
Another missed nickle plating process ?


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Another missed nickle plating process ?


Only Optimus could answer that. Its right around where the O-ring sit


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Only Optimus could answer that. Its right around where the O-ring sit


Hi,
Yeah that stuff optimus needs to make a comb


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah that stuff optimus needs to make a comb /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


That and that particular block also got what looks like thermal paste into the o-ring. Though that is probably me putting too much thermal paste on


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> That and that particular block also got what looks like thermal paste into the o-ring. Though that is probably me putting too much thermal paste on


Looks pretty normal, other stuff in your loop can dissolve and get stuck to the o-rings or fins. Also, discoloration can happen with any material, though the blocks are made to be resistant. 

For cleaning, a bamboo bristle toothbrushes has worked well. There are these bamboo brushes with super tiny bristles, smaller than our channels.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Looks pretty normal, other stuff in your loop can dissolve and get stuck to the o-rings or fins. Also, discoloration can happen with any material, though the blocks are made to be resistant.
> 
> For cleaning, a bamboo bristle toothbrushes has worked well. There are these bamboo brushes with super tiny bristles, smaller than our channels.


Hi,
One of these ?
https://www.amazon.com/Bamboo-Toothbrush-Adult-Size-Pack/dp/B018HLOS1K?th=1


----------



## skupples

inline glass filter for $10 from autozone ftw.

so what's coming first big navi or 2080ti block?


----------



## Optimus WC

This is the type we've used: 

https://www.amazon.com/Hippo-Crate-Toothbrush-Binchotan-Sensitive/dp/B072JZM15V


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> This is the type we've used:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Hippo-Crate-Toothbrush-Binchotan-Sensitive/dp/B072JZM15V


Hi,
Thanks I'll give it a try those fins are mighty tight together so the very bottom sometimes gets some stuff stuck in them.


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> This is the type we've used:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Hippo-Crate-Toothbrush-Binchotan-Sensitive/dp/B072JZM15V


prices will now double overnight. 

thanks.


----------



## Optimus WC

lol those brushes actually look pretty generic, there are a bunch of brands that make the same thing or have those ultra fine bristles.


----------



## skupples

don't worry i'll go away once i get the other block


----------



## farpetrad

Here’s my block disassembled. Have a tiny bit of crap from the ek radiators so cleaning now.


----------



## ThrashZone

farpetrad said:


> Here’s my block disassembled. Have a tiny bit of crap from the ek radiators so cleaning now.


https://www.autozone.com/fuel-syste...2369-premium-clearview-fuel-filter/352786_0_0


----------



## Section31

Thanks all for the tips


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I've been messing with memory on this z490 seems forever lol 
Finally got 4k mhz sort of working just trying to get it to perform better than a tuned 3600c16 :/


----------



## phas3d

Optimus WC said:


> lol those brushes actually look pretty generic, there are a bunch of brands that make the same thing or have those ultra fine bristles.


Do your HARDLINE COMPRESSION FITTINGs fit easily on hard PETG tubing that is 16mm (from EKwb)?


----------



## Optimus WC

phas3d said:


> Do your HARDLINE COMPRESSION FITTINGs fit easily on hard PETG tubing that is 16mm (from EKwb)?


We currently only sell the 1/2" model, the metrics in 12mm, 14mm and 16mm are coming soonish. The best PETG for our 1/2" hardlines is from Primochill.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> We currently only sell the 1/2" model, the metrics in 12mm, 14mm and 16mm are coming soonish. The best PETG for our 1/2" hardlines is from Primochill.


Can't wait to try our them and your new reservoir. I was taking apart my S8 and the Fan/Radiator Mounted Optimus Reservoir would work really well in that case. I also just found out why it was making noises, some of the screwed got loose and fell off. Needed to order in more screws. That and its needs through cleaning before I put it back into use. Six months in an office and its really dusty and dirty inside. 

I also want to add an updated front mounted USB ports. I never bothered ordering the USB3.0 Front Plate when i ordered the case. Anyone have found some good solutions out there. I doubt i can find one that can has type c too.


----------



## tcclaviger

Optimus is killing me over here...

2 weeks and still not shipped.

On the other hand, Formulamod shipped out all my new fittings on 2 May... still haven't left China yet, at the distribution hub waiting to be flown to the US, so I guess it's a race, can optimus build and ship a block faster than an off the shelf part can travel to the US in COVIDpocalypse?!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Depends on which state protests/ looting and all.


----------



## tcclaviger

Yeah, curious to see who wins the race tbh.

I'm betting on Optimus at this point.

I bought, received, had a failure of, RMAd, returned, and had replaced a 2080ti all in the span since I ordered from Formulamod lmao.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Bad actors making it a race to the bottom in some cities.


----------



## Section31

tcclaviger said:


> Optimus is killing me over here...
> 
> 2 weeks and still not shipped.
> 
> On the other hand, Formulamod shipped out all my new fittings on 2 May... still haven't left China yet, at the distribution hub waiting to be flown to the US, so I guess it's a race, can optimus build and ship a block faster than an off the shelf part can travel to the US in COVIDpocalypse?!


I wouldn't complain. I got set of custom sleeved cables stuck in South Africa since February 2020 (I'm in Canada and Beyondcustoms is way cheaper than ordering from US). I also have an Ayaka Lida CD Album (paid EMS, pre-ordered in Dec) stuck in Japan with no movement. I have had to shift all order away from USPS to Fedex and DHL because the items either get stuck somewhere in the US of the Canadian Border Security Agency holds the package up for two-three weeks before it goes to Canada Post. I was going to give away my old set of sleeved cables but good thing i didn't yet.


----------



## ObviousCough

I've been waiting for my foundation block since May 16. It has given me lots of time to plan my loop and get everything "just right".


----------



## tcclaviger

Yeah, it's crazy how bad shipping times have become, and all indications are they're only going to get worse :/


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
For everyone really fill in at least which state you're in on your profile


----------



## farpetrad

All back together. Cleaned up some runs. Still not happy with the cross run but a new top radiator should fix that. Got rid of my vertical mount it caused more issues than it fixed and changed to some soft 90s.


----------



## skupples

tcclaviger said:


> Optimus is killing me over here...
> 
> 2 weeks and still not shipped.
> 
> On the other hand, Formulamod shipped out all my new fittings on 2 May... still haven't left China yet, at the distribution hub waiting to be flown to the US, so I guess it's a race, can optimus build and ship a block faster than an off the shelf part can travel to the US in COVIDpocalypse?!


6 months, get @ me.



tcclaviger said:


> Yeah, it's crazy how bad shipping times have become, and all indications are they're only going to get worse :/


yep, turns out blocking major highways and burning major cities for a week straight has major consequences.


----------



## ThrashZone

farpetrad said:


> All back together. Cleaned up some runs. Still not happy with the cross run but a new top radiator should fix that. Got rid of my vertical mount it caused more issues than it fixed and changed to some soft 90s.


Hi,
Nice
Too bad that front rad can't be flipped it sure would drain better later on.


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nice
> Too bad that front rad can't be flipped it sure would drain better later on.


and not make bleeding a total pain in the ass.

luckily the case is small enough to tip/tilt/flip.

this is why i try to use rads with bleed ports on the butt in my front mount. otherwise, you're gonna battle getting air out like a mffffff


----------



## farpetrad

ThrashZone said:


> farpetrad said:
> 
> 
> 
> All back together. Cleaned up some runs. Still not happy with the cross run but a new top radiator should fix that. Got rid of my vertical mount it caused more issues than it fixed and changed to some soft 90s.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Nice
> Too bad that front rad can't be flipped it sure would drain better later on.
Click to expand...

Yeah I though about that but will get a multi port rad later and replace it. I haven’t had an issue draining just hook up the data vac and blow it all out.


----------



## Hequaqua

farpetrad said:


> Yeah I though about that but will get a multi port rad later and replace it. I haven’t had an issue draining just hook up the data vac and blow it all out.


Interesting....and just how do you go about doing that?


----------



## farpetrad

Hequaqua said:


> Interesting....and just how do you go about doing that?


 After using my drain port the run going from the radiator back to the res will empty, tipping a little allows more back to the res so I can then unhook the fitting, put a cap in its place, hook the datavac up to the now lose line and let it blow all the water out of the drain. Takes a few minutes but gets down to just spurting out drips.


----------



## Hequaqua

farpetrad said:


> After using my drain port the run going from the radiator back to the res will empty, tipping a little allows more back to the res so I can then unhook the fitting, put a cap in its place, hook the datavac up to the now lose line and let it blow all the water out of the drain. Takes a few minutes but gets down to just spurting out drips.


I will have to give that a try...hopefully I won't make a huge mess....lol

Thanks!


----------



## farpetrad

Hequaqua said:


> I will have to give that a try...hopefully I won't make a huge mess....lol
> 
> Thanks!


Just make sure to keep the datavac above the case, if you turn it off without blowing all the water out, water will flow back and if the datavac is lower than the highest water point it will flow into it, and then will take a few days to dry out before you can use it again safely.'


----------



## farpetrad

Been running the new top with [email protected] for the last 3 hours. Used the new mounting system as well and wow! Room is currently ~70f, was 92f here in Denver today and its still in the upper 70's outside but even when it was warmer in here the temps were just as impressive.


----------



## Optimus WC

farpetrad said:


> Been running the new top with [email protected] for the last 3 hours. Used the new mounting system as well and wow! Room is currently ~70f, was 92f here in Denver today and its still in the upper 70's outside but even when it was warmer in here the temps were just as impressive.


Nice  So how does that compare to the previous mounting/top for you? I can't remember your last numbers


----------



## farpetrad

Dropped a tiny bit like you were saying, and has even contact unlike before with the one stripped nut will be fun to see what the temps are like on a day that its not like the desert world from super mario outside with the Sun trying to kill you and I can keep the house and this room cool. Can't find the saved image of the Heatkiller #'s but they were 67-70c so giant improvement!


----------



## Optimus WC

Haha, awesome!


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Haha, awesome!


I think i will be going with your new mounting mechanism for reservoir. Worked out how to do the build in the s8


----------



## farpetrad

Upgraded Aquasuite and it can't see the commander pros so now I need to upgrade to some aquacomputer stuff  Seems after letting the paste cure after the hard run last night temps are quite better. (Aquasuite is reading the ccd temps correctly but the average is showing crazy 8 digit temps...).


----------



## Section31

farpetrad said:


> Upgraded Aquasuite and it can't see the commander pros so now I need to upgrade to some aquacomputer stuff /forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif Seems after letting the paste cure after the hard run last night temps are quite better. (Aquasuite is reading the ccd temps correctly but the average is showing crazy 8 digit temps...).


Aquasuite is the best for fan controller and sensors. Koolance was good too but they are focused on enterprise market more.


----------



## agentdark45

farpetrad said:


> Been running the new top with [email protected] for the last 3 hours. Used the new mounting system as well and wow! Room is currently ~70f, was 92f here in Denver today and its still in the upper 70's outside but even when it was warmer in here the temps were just as impressive.


Hey, what's this new top about? I had an email from Optimus saying they were shipping out a new mounting system to me, but haven't heard any news about a new top?

Temps on my 3970x are around 60C under full load when running cinebench (stock), and raise to ~73 when completely maxing out PBO settings (around 4.1ghz all core sustained). I don't have another waterblock to test, but when trying to do any form of OC'ing using a Dark rock TR4 air cooler the CPU would immediately hit 95c.


----------



## farpetrad

agentdark45 said:


> Hey, what's this new top about? I had an email from Optimus saying they were shipping out a new mounting system to me, but haven't heard any news about a new top?
> 
> Temps on my 3970x are around 60C under full load when running cinebench (stock), and raise to ~73 when completely maxing out PBO settings (around 4.1ghz all core sustained). I don't have another waterblock to test, but when trying to do any form of OC'ing using a Dark rock TR4 air cooler the CPU would immediately hit 95c.


So from the conversation I had with Optimus they said it was more bowed but other than that its the same. I couldn't tell looking at them both side by side. I see they tweeted last night (https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1269424097848553474?s=20) saying the new tops is for those that like to lap their IHS. I didn't know this before installing it, I didn't lap my IHS, but am getting better performance with it.


----------



## agentdark45

farpetrad said:


> So from the conversation I had with Optimus they said it was more bowed but other than that its the same. I couldn't tell looking at them both side by side. I see they tweeted last night (https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1269424097848553474?s=20) saying the new tops is for those that like to lap their IHS. I didn't know this before installing it, I didn't lap my IHS, but am getting better performance with it.


Ah right I see, so I should be good then as there's no way in hell I'm lapping a 3970x!


----------



## farpetrad

agentdark45 said:


> Ah right I see, so I should be good then as there's no way in hell I'm lapping a 3970x!


Yeah same here. I didn't know it was designed for a lapped IHS and the performance was great already but they did say I would see a drop from 1-4c and I did get 1-2c lower temps by switching to it but I will not be lapping my cpu.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah lapping a chip is sort of insane at this early point seeing it would void any warranty


----------



## qes27

Optimus WC said:


> "Budget"? Yeah seriously  Good luck with the build/stuffing


That's also how I ended up with an extra 4x8GB kit of B-Die - thought I'd save a little $ and stay with 32GB's only to later decide that was stupid and ordered another 4x16GB kit.

This case didn't end up as stuffed as I thought it might. Not nearly as pretty as some of y'alls builds, but considering how much stuff is in the case it came out pretty clean.

Here it is before with a Noctua NH-U14S TR4-SP3 on top.. Don't mind the ugly RAM - quality binned B-Die was really hard to find in stock anywhere back in Nov/Dec. The DIMMs behind the CPU fan were running 10°C+ hotter than the other side - it'll be nice to see how far I can push the RAM & IF now.











Fitting the main pieces.. The front two and bottom two fans are intake, the rear exhausts.

I didn't think enough and put the new screw posts in upside-down, so that the flat washer part was on top of the block. Of course, when I realized my mistake finding that I couldn't get all 4 posts to catch threads, then the black part with the torx end just unscrewed itself from the posts leaving the block stuck. Thankfully I had a thin needle nose on hand and was able to get the posts back out without trouble.











Taped off the gaps, big and small, around fans and radiators











All put together.. I've been modding since swapping an oscillator can on a 286 at the age of 10, but this is my first water cooled build. There's some minor things I'd do differently after having all the parts in hand and seeing how it came together. Overall I'm fairly happy, but I'll see how it does over time, too.

For some reason this case has a big open grate right above the PCIe slots, so I threw a couple small exhaust fans there and taped off the rest.











This is the setup it powers (previous i7-6700K build in the pic there)..











I'm a software developer and don't game or mass transcode videos or run big ML simulations or anything, so I usually don't go quite so ham on my PC's, but I've transitioned to 90% work from home since my last rebuild 4 years ago and only had to build one workstation this time, with work picking up a lot of the cost (not the water loop, though).

Parts:


Corsair Carbide 600Q case (inverted ATX)
Corsair AX850 PSU
Threadripper 3960X
Asus ROG Strix TRX40 E-Gaming motherboard
4x 16GB G.Skill Royal DDR4 3200MHz 14-14-14-34 (clocked to 3600 14-14-14-30, 264 tRFC)
Intel Optane 900P 280GB PCIe 4x AIC
Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 NVMe 1TB
4x misc 2-4TB 3.5" HDDs
2x MSI GeForce 1660 TI 6GB Ventus XS
6x Dell U2518D 2560x1440 60 Hz IPS 25"
EK-CoolStream CE 280x45mm radiator
EK-CoolStream CE 140x45mm radiator
EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE D5 PWM pump w/ 200mL resevoir
EK-DuraClear 10/16 tubing
EK-STC Classic 10/16 G1/4" compression fittings
EK-CryoFuel Clear coolant
Phobya G1/4" Inline Temperature Sensor
3x Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-2000 IP67 140mm PWM fans
2x Noctua NF-P12 redux-1300 120mm PWM fans
2x Noctua NF-A6x25 60mm PWM fans

I don't have much to say about temps at this point - haven't run stress tests, going to mess with RAM clocks first. Obviously it's a crap load cooler than the Noctua blower on top. I don't have any sort of test setup for temps anyway, my ambient swings several degrees regularly with the central air cycling. Kryonaut paste under the TR block, and I applied full coverage over the IHS - as thin as I could with that paste - before seating the block.


----------



## farpetrad

qes27 said:


> I'm a software developer and don't game or mass transcode videos or run big ML simulations or anything, so I usually don't go quite so ham on my PC's, but I've transitioned to 90% work from home since my last rebuild 4 years ago and only had to build one workstation this time, with work picking up a lot of the cost (not the water loop, though).
> 
> 
> I don't have much to say about temps at this point - haven't run stress tests, going to mess with RAM clocks first. Obviously it's a crap load cooler than the Noctua blower on top. I don't have any sort of test setup for temps anyway, my ambient swings several degrees regularly with the central air cycling. Kryonaut paste under the TR block, and I applied full coverage over the IHS - as thin as I could with that paste - before seating the block.


Great machine for development. I do the same on mine but also game on it some and leave it running [email protected] when I'm not doing anything.


----------



## MakubeX

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Nice
> 
> Too bad that front rad can't be flipped it sure would drain better later on.


Flipped upside down?


----------



## agentdark45

farpetrad said:


> Yeah same here. I didn't know it was designed for a lapped IHS and the performance was great already but they did say I would see a drop from 1-4c and I did get 1-2c lower temps by switching to it but I will not be lapping my cpu.


I spoke too soon, I just got the new top along with the new mounting screws today. So just to double check, it is advisable to install it with a non-lapped IHS or should I just leave everything alone?

@Optimus WC, can you confirm?

Now just waiting on the replacement pump (seems to have been stuck in the UK since the 1st, no idea what they're doing with it!).


----------



## exlink

I’m kind of disappointed with the customer service (or lack there of) from Optimus. I ordered an AMD Foundation (AM4) on May 26th. There has been an update on their website saying there are 1-2 week delays on orders due to COVID. Understandable.

I email them a week and a half after placing my order to see if they have a new update. No response. I private message Optimus WC here a couple days later, no response despite seeing them still post on the forum.

I have all my water cooling parts sitting and waiting for this block to come in for 2 weeks now. I’m not sure if I should expect the block to ship at any moment or if it’ll be another 1-2+ weeks. I understand that the pandemic made manufacturing more complicated but leaving your new customers in the dark probably isn’t the best way to conduct business.


----------



## ObviousCough

I've been waiting since May 16th. There are people who had to wait since December. Every morning I wake up and check my email looking for that "shipped" subject line. Maybe next week.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah no news is bad news 
Now you have all the riots and looting to deal with blocking roads/.... as well as corona..... net gain 0 Chicago too.


----------



## farpetrad

agentdark45 said:


> farpetrad said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah same here. I didn't know it was designed for a lapped IHS and the performance was great already but they did say I would see a drop from 1-4c and I did get 1-2c lower temps by switching to it but I will not be lapping my cpu.
> 
> 
> 
> I spoke too soon, I just got the new top along with the new mounting screws today. So just to double check, it is advisable to install it with a non-lapped IHS or should I just leave everything alone?
> 
> @Optimus WC, can you confirm?
> 
> Now just waiting on the replacement pump (seems to have been stuck in the UK since the 1st, no idea what they're doing with it!).
Click to expand...

No need to lap the cpu I got better results with the new top and not lapping mine but if your super happy with how it runs no need to change it. I had a stripped nut so one corner wasn’t fully making the best contact and since they sent replacement mounting hardware I tried it.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

Regarding shipping and blocks, we're spending all our time right now manufacturing and shipping. It's really hard to say when we'll have the blocks for a specific order, because we're making them constantly. We got hit with more delays, but we're super super close to being able to manufacture everything with incredible speed. That's not the best answer, I know, but we're working through the issues so we can be much better in the future. Once we have this worked out (most likely today) we can give much more concrete shipping estimates. And then no estimates, because everything will ship in 24 hours. That's the goal!

REGARDING THREADRIPPER TOPS:
-If you received a NEW TOP -- use that new top, UNLESS you lapped your IHS. So the original one has slightly better performance for a lapped IHS. The newer top has slightly better performance for regular TR CPUs. 
-Definitely use the new mounting system. Put the posts in first, then block, then torx nuts on top. 
-In the future, we're only shipping with the normal top and new mounting. We'll have the lapped version as an option if there are enough crazy people out there.


----------



## Shawnb99

So no dual pumps yet? Ok I'll ask again next week 
@Optimus WC If we flooded this thread with dual pump requests would you make one faster?


----------



## skupples

rona is essentially over. pack immunity kicked in long ago for those of us not living in total isolation. However, it came no where close to the wished 2,000,000 dead in the US alone, so they had to trigger riots & looting to help the #s game. notice where the majority of the revelry and insurrection is happening. blue af cities.


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> So no dual pumps yet? Ok I'll ask again next week
> 
> @Optimus WC If we flooded this thread with dual pump requests would you make one faster?


Haha, nothing yet. We're working on upgrading manufacturing again, so new products will come a lot faster in the future. 

What is the preferred dual pump setup? Side-by-side, facing each other, etc. We haven't even looked at flow rate, etc. But might as well let me know what you want


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Haha, nothing yet. We're working on upgrading manufacturing again, so new products will come a lot faster in the future.
> 
> What is the preferred dual pump setup? Side-by-side, facing each other, etc. We haven't even looked at flow rate, etc. But might as well let me know what you want


Hi,
In stock is preferred


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> In stock is preferred


woah woah woah, we're good but we're not magicians


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Just have to use more Heinz ketchup/ catch up


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Haha, nothing yet. We're working on upgrading manufacturing again, so new products will come a lot faster in the future.
> 
> What is the preferred dual pump setup? Side-by-side, facing each other, etc. We haven't even looked at flow rate, etc. But might as well let me know what you want


Side by side I guess would be the best for mounting purposes. That's a good question, I haven't really given it much thought. Hmm what would be best...



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> In stock is preferred


***** This is the perfect answer!


----------



## farpetrad

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> REGARDING THREADRIPPER TOPS:
> -If you received a NEW TOP -- use that new top, UNLESS you lapped your IHS. So the original one has slightly better performance for a lapped IHS. The newer top has slightly better performance for regular TR CPUs.
> -Definitely use the new mounting system. Put the posts in first, then block, then torx nuts on top.
> -In the future, we're only shipping with the normal top and new mounting. We'll have the lapped version as an option if there are enough crazy people out there.


I swear you said the new one was for the lapped block but this makes more sense lol.


----------



## agentdark45

farpetrad said:


> No need to lap the cpu I got better results with the new top and not lapping mine but if your super happy with how it runs no need to change it. I had a stripped nut so one corner wasn’t fully making the best contact and since they sent replacement mounting hardware I tried it.





Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Regarding shipping and blocks, we're spending all our time right now manufacturing and shipping. It's really hard to say when we'll have the blocks for a specific order, because we're making them constantly. We got hit with more delays, but we're super super close to being able to manufacture everything with incredible speed. That's not the best answer, I know, but we're working through the issues so we can be much better in the future. Once we have this worked out (most likely today) we can give much more concrete shipping estimates. And then no estimates, because everything will ship in 24 hours. That's the goal!
> 
> REGARDING THREADRIPPER TOPS:
> -If you received a NEW TOP -- use that new top, UNLESS you lapped your IHS. So the original one has slightly better performance for a lapped IHS. The newer top has slightly better performance for regular TR CPUs.
> -Definitely use the new mounting system. Put the posts in first, then block, then torx nuts on top.
> -In the future, we're only shipping with the normal top and new mounting. We'll have the lapped version as an option if there are enough crazy people out there.


Fantastic, thanks for the help guys!

Also I'd just like to thank @Optimus WC for their great after sales support - I've never had a company send an updated bit of kit when they didn't have to (and replace a faulty item) internationally without any prompting. You've definitely earned a customer for life!


----------



## Section31

Optimus has lot of products to release


----------



## Mxj1

Optimus WC said:


> Haha, nothing yet. We're working on upgrading manufacturing again, so new products will come a lot faster in the future.
> 
> What is the preferred dual pump setup? Side-by-side, facing each other, etc. We haven't even looked at flow rate, etc. But might as well let me know what you want


I'll buy one. I prefer side by side, with lots of mounting options.



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> In stock is preferred


I nominate you Overclock.net foreman. :cheers:


----------



## skupples

Will you be selling JUST the top/kit? Rather socket my own pumps. 

& yeah, one thing EK's done right recently is their dual pump barrel.


----------



## JustinThyme

Haven’t checked this thread in awhile. It’s a pointless venture to ask people what they want to see next when there are folks been waiting more than 6 months on a preorder that’s not been delivered. Illl just go ahead and say it! The “were reworking this or expanding that story is getting old. Either you can produce or you can’t. Just get square with people then try again.


----------



## Section31

Little Update for AM4 Foundation. One Mo-Ra3 420 effectively dropped temperature to sub 60. This is with room temperature at 22-23degrees. The water loop itself remained effectively at room temperature through testing. The other thing is i really only need one pump running the system, same thing happened when i tried dual pump setup with x299, the two pumps ended up making temperatures higher. Now that helps in my planning greatly.

Basically i really didn’t need to get an 3950X lol. Should have just kept the 7920x and redo my tubing, etc and get an optimus intel block.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Little Update for AM4 Foundation. One Mo-Ra3 420 effectively dropped temperature to sub 60. This is with room temperature at 22-23degrees. The water loop itself remained effectively at room temperature through testing. The other thing is i really only need one pump running the system, same thing happened when i tried dual pump setup with x299, the two pumps ended up making temperatures higher. Now that helps in my planning greatly.
> 
> Basically i really didn’t need to get an 3950X lol. Should have just kept the 7920x and redo my tubing, etc and get an optimus intel block.


Hi,
You should use rig builder or simply add your hardware as plain text to your signature.

On another note returning asus formula to amazon it's bios is a piece of crap throttling way too much at all core multipliers to deal with hopefully evga will oc better.


----------



## Section31

I had one before ocn got sold. Lost it and the previous builds i did.

Once i finalize the build i will do it. However there always tweaking i do on yearly basis. The caselabs rebuild project getting bigger, I am now looking into getting custom work done. Have family friends in Hong Kong with contacts that can help. That's whenever I can actually fly there lol. Eventhough i can enter there, I still got 14 day quarantine to deal with and tickets are hard to come by/extremely expensive.


----------



## skupples

which time though


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> I had one before ocn got sold. Lost it and the previous builds i did.
> 
> Once i finalize the build i will do it. However there always tweaking i do on yearly basis. The caselabs rebuild project getting bigger, I am now looking into getting custom work done. Have family friends in Hong Kong with contacts that can help.


Hi,
Basic stuff 
Chip/ board/ memory.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Basic stuff
> Chip/ board/ memory.


Thanks. Updated.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Haha, nothing yet. We're working on upgrading manufacturing again, so new products will come a lot faster in the future.
> 
> What is the preferred dual pump setup? Side-by-side, facing each other, etc. We haven't even looked at flow rate, etc. But might as well let me know what you want


How would facing each other even work? So the reservoir and pumps would form an L? I don't think I've ever seen that done. Likely look ugly as hell. Plus it would take a lot of work to make the top/cover for them


How about one below the other, is that even possible? That actually might end up being the best looking option, if it's even possible. Designing the top/cover for that setup would be even harder to design


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Thanks. Updated.


Hi,
Thanks at least we know what you're using :thumb:


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Thanks at least we know what you're using :thumb:


Thanks for recommending the 420 version. Really good investment for now and future. Just did some gaming runs with D3 (bad game to test) but i got CPU temps of 42degrees and GPU temps of 33degrees. Water Loop temperature remained at 22degrees. I don't have to even run the pump at 100% for benchmarking either and hit 60degrees on cinebench.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Thanks for recommending the 420 version. Really good investment for now and future. Just did some gaming runs with D3 (bad game to test) but i got CPU temps of 42degrees and GPU temps of 33degrees. Water Loop temperature remained at 22degrees. I don't have to even run the pump at 100% for benchmarking either and hit 60degrees on cinebench.


Hi,
Yep mora's work


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC I have another request for my dual pump. Temp sensor and flow meter in it, but a real flow meter and that imitation one in the D5 Next's.


----------



## skupples

real flow meter, as in like a AC High Flow, not their digital.

temp sensor seems easy enough to add in without major cost inflation, but the sensor part would touch on our previous discussion about Optimus providing electronic solutions. 

R&D time be like guh - it took aquacomputer and ITDiva over 5 years to bring her divadapter to market.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> real flow meter, as in like a AC High Flow, not their digital.
> 
> temp sensor seems easy enough to add in without major cost inflation, but the sensor part would touch on our previous discussion about Optimus providing electronic solutions.
> 
> R&D time be like guh - it took aquacomputer and ITDiva over 5 years to bring her divadapter to market.


Would love improved temp sensors too. Aquacomputer aquabus high flow sensor wasn’t cheap, i had to buy lot of extra accessories to get it working with an aq6 lt and d5 next. I ran out of usb 2 headers. Costs include one puffy and whole bunch of accessories cables (needed to get whole aquacomputer external rad octo and d5 next) to work off aquasuite.

Even radiators take long time. Look at heatkiller internal rads. We only know it took three years to finish it but how long before did they even start that project.


----------



## masterskop

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, so PPCS is getting more inventory really soon. No blocks have springs these days, they all use the new springless mounting


Hi,

I was wondering when you will be updating / sending more inventory to PPCS? I put an order in on 5/24. 

Thanks!

masterskop


----------



## MakubeX

masterskop said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> I was wondering when you will be updating / sending more inventory to PPCS? I put an order in on 5/24.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> masterskop


If it's any help, I emailed them for a shipping ETA on an order I placed directly on their web store on June 2 and this was their response:



> The delays are definitely hitting us quite a bit harder than we initially expected.  It's hard to give an eat, but I would guess it will be at least another 2 weeks until we can ship your order.  We are currently working on ramping up production, so once we get ahead on orders, these delays should not happen again.  Sorry for the inconvenience!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Think nickle blocks were more delayed than copper ones seeing they have someone else doing the nickle process.


----------



## tcclaviger

21 days and counting.

Not sure how much longer my curiosity will overpower my annoyance with a manufacturing company not manufacturing.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Couple intel foundations in stock at PPC awesome block :thumb:
https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...uminum-copper-intel-op-cpu-fou-a-c-intel.html


----------



## skupples

MakubeX said:


> If it's any help, I emailed them for a shipping ETA on an order I placed directly on their web store on June 2 and this was their response:


same answer different month.

hopefully said production ramp actually becomes evident soon. 

 I don't wanna do it, but I'm gonna have to cancel the block + flip my 2080ti if something faster drops that =s that money. Gotta keep that GPU money moving, or you lose it.

block coming first = i'm lazy enough to turn 2080ti into my new placeholder card since I sold off all my stock.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Does sound a lot like the movie Money pit = two weeks....


----------



## skupples

money pit, total recall... whatever. I guess it depends which side you're on


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> money pit, total recall... whatever. I guess it depends which side you're on


Hi,
Unlike the movie money pit optimus isn't asking for mo money


----------



## wuudogg

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Unlike the movie money pit optimus isn't asking for mo money


He actually is asking for money. Been following this for a while. Same excuse different week. He is floating your money for "preorders" for what seems like months. I understand manufacturing delays but he told everybody to look for parts at PPCS weeks ago. No show. He says 2 week delays for website orders. Guys are posting 2 months plus. Feels like a kickstarter about to go wrong. Beautiful products. I hope he can get it together and stick around. Let us know when they are in stock at a retailer.


----------



## mgoldb2

wuudogg said:


> He actually is asking for money. Been following this for a while. Same excuse different week. He is floating your money for "preorders" for what seems like months. I understand manufacturing delays but he told everybody to look for parts at PPCS weeks ago. No show. He says 2 week delays for website orders. Guys are posting 2 months plus. Feels like a kickstarter about to go wrong. Beautiful products. I hope he can get it together and stick around. Let us know when they are in stock at a retailer.


I think the mistake they made and they already admitted it was taking pre-orders. That being said it seem like the vast majority of people that received there products have been happy with what they received. I know I am quite happy with my Threadripper block and glad I did not cancel it despite the fact it took 5 and a half months to receive.

Plus it could be way worse, waiting for my Optimus block was a pleasure compare to everything I had to go through with CaseLabs. I love my CaseLabs case but it was a very loong (over 6 mouths and this was on a production product not a pre-order) and frustrating process dealing with Caselabs in order to receive everything I ordered. For example the first Pedestal they sent me had a major design flaw and the first order I received from them was someone elses order are two examples of what I went through. On top of that I had given CaseLabs way way more money then I have given Optimus.


----------



## skupples

wuudogg said:


> He actually is asking for money. Been following this for a while. Same excuse different week. He is floating your money for "preorders" for what seems like months. I understand manufacturing delays but he told everybody to look for parts at PPCS weeks ago. No show. He says 2 week delays for website orders. Guys are posting 2 months plus. Feels like a kickstarter about to go wrong. Beautiful products. I hope he can get it together and stick around. Let us know when they are in stock at a retailer.




more money for other items, totally different


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> more money for other items, totally different


Maybe with all these rumors hyping up Nvidia 3000 Series and its fall expected launch, maybe all those 2080TI blocks will become 3080TI Blocks preorders. Planning my own build as well others build keeps me focused on the positive things. Stay positive in these times. 

You guys should check out canadian hardwareswap reddit, just yesterday someone out of there goodwill, posted an giveaway for an 2080ti. Despite the negative news, people are still giving stuff away to people. There's also lot of back room giveaways too. Couple of nice individuals there. If I get one of those deals done, I basically will be giving away some items (got to repay back an favor). This includes my 2080TI with water block once the 3080TI and Optimus GPU Block is out, my PC-011XL (once i finish the move to the S8 this fall) and the logistical nightmare issue of my old 55inch Samsung HU8550 4k TV (how to carry to third party location as i obviously don't want ppl knowing where i live).

It may not be bad idea to just take what you learnt from the Nvidia 2080TI launch and put it to use right away on the 3080TI and have the blocks ready for launch.


----------



## Section31

I am also running an optimus foundation (intel or amd) block giveaway on hardwareswap canada. You guys are welcome to join. 

I won’t be ordering till optimus 12mm fittings and its new reservoir are out this summer (if so).


----------



## wuudogg

mgoldb2 said:


> I think the mistake they made and they already admitted it was taking pre-orders. That being said it seem like the vast majority of people that received there products have been happy with what they received. I know I am quite happy with my Threadripper block and glad I did not cancel it despite the fact it took 5 and a half months to receive.
> 
> Plus it could be way worse, waiting for my Optimus block was a pleasure compare to everything I had to go through with CaseLabs. I love my CaseLabs case but it was a very loong (over 6 mouths and this was on a production product not a pre-order) and frustrating process dealing with Caselabs in order to receive everything I ordered. For example the first Pedestal they sent me had a major design flaw and the first order I received from them was someone elses order are two examples of what I went through. On top of that I had given CaseLabs way way more money then I have given Optimus.


That hit home. RIP Caselabs. As a "very patient" SMA8 owner myself I understand the sentiment. I feel lucky to have one and it was worth the money, the wait, and the ridiculous hoops. Seems most of those who possess an Optimus block feel the same way.


----------



## Section31

wuudogg said:


> That hit home. RIP Caselabs. As a "very patient" SMA8 owner myself I understand the sentiment. I feel lucky to have one and it was worth the money, the wait, and the ridiculous hoops. Seems most of those who possess an Optimus block feel the same way.


Most caselabs owners are in that boat. I can't part with my S8 either.


----------



## skupples

CL went down hill slowly, that’s for sure.

As for 3080ti or whatever.

I’m gonna need well over 30% over 2080ti to be interested at all in a brand new one. 

30% or less, n I’ll do used shuffle probably. 

Think I basically already said that tho


----------



## blackzaru

Got a quick question for you folks out there: do you guys know if their blocks are mostly flat, or concave/convexe? I just lapped my 3950X, and I am hesitant to invest in a block I might have to lap as well (lapping my supremacy evo was a bit of a pain)


----------



## farpetrad

skupples said:


> CL went down hill slowly, that’s for sure.
> 
> As for 3080ti or whatever.
> 
> I’m gonna need well over 30% over 2080ti to be interested at all in a brand new one.
> 
> 30% or less, n I’ll do used shuffle probably.
> 
> Think I basically already said that tho


If you do want to give up and waiting and want a cooled 2080ti now I just saw this for $1199.....
https://www.microcenter.com/product...iquid-cooled-11gb-gddr6-pcie-30-graphics-card


----------



## Section31

For those with the Optimus Reservoir, I have an question per say. How is the O-ring for the bottom held. I wonder If i could get away without using the metal cooling base or make my own diy solution around it,


----------



## skupples

farpetrad said:


> If you do want to give up and waiting and want a cooled 2080ti now I just saw this for $1199.....
> https://www.microcenter.com/product...iquid-cooled-11gb-gddr6-pcie-30-graphics-card


why would i do that? I have a 2080ti, and hydrocopper has historically been the lower performing block. (who makes them now? it used to be swiftech) 


n i bet someone around here on OCN has an extra block. I'd just have to make a thread & bump it a few times. 

I thought about that today, after noticing the stock thermal pads are starting to leak oil. 

also, i highly recommend these modern mini-PCs. desktop CPU, laptop memory, NVME = vroom vroom. I need to upgrade to one of the mini-dGPU models though.


----------



## farpetrad

Oh didn't realize you had a card already, should of. But if you don't 1199 for a 2080ti thats pretty darn cheap.


----------



## skupples

i got mine for $850


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> i got mine for $850


Skrupples, you really should join the canadian hardwareswap reddit. There's currently an group of people doing trades of high end hardware. Basically person A gives up high end stuff to Person B then Person B gives there stuff away to Person C and so on. It's actually one of the nice things developing to counter the crazy price spikes up in Canada due to parts shortage. Only small portion of the items ever make it out to the public forum. It's all about finding good homes for our no longer needed items we no longer want to keep.

One person just got an Z490 Master, 10900K and all he had to do was give up his 8086K and motherboard to someone else in need, which is what he is going to do.


----------



## Keith Myers

Section31 said:


> For those with the Optimus Reservoir, I have an question per say. How is the O-ring for the bottom held. I wonder If i could get away without using the metal cooling base or make my own diy solution around it,



Looks like a simple chamfer on the base of the reservoir threads. A mimic of the top cap.


----------



## Section31

Keith Myers said:


> Looks like a simple chamfer on the base of the reservoir threads. A mimic of the top cap.


Thanks. Hopefully Optimus gets back on that. I did some dry fitting tests in my rig over the weekend and the current Optimus reservoir would work great as long as it won't leak with an d5 next used. So hence why i don't need the metal cooling base. It looks like it could work base on the pictures but i need to confirm it will.


----------



## chuggz

Optimus WC said:


> REGARDING 10TH GEN:
> -Pics below are with a FLAT Sig block on a 10900k
> -That's from Bearded Hardware
> -The 10th gen IHS looks more convex with a strange pattern


What's all that grey goop around the socket, that looks like silly putty, and why is it there?


----------



## MakubeX

Shall we place bets on whether I get the foundation block I ordered on June 2 first, or a Ryzen 3900XT which I'm waiting on to be released? [emoji1]


----------



## Avacado

MakubeX said:


> Shall we place bets on whether I get the foundation block I ordered on June 2 first, or a Ryzen 3900XT which I'm waiting on to be released? [emoji1]


My bet is you already know the answer to that question, being that you ordered it in June, i'm quite certain you have read this thread and the delays others have experienced with shipping delays.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Why still seems like a dog race I don't see any Ryzen 3900XT for sell anywhere yet


----------



## MakubeX

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Why still seems like a dog race I don't see any Ryzen 3900XT for sell anywhere yet


That's the funny part. One of the two items hasn't been officially announce to even be a real thing yet and still it might just win. [emoji1]


----------



## ThrashZone

MakubeX said:


> That's the funny part. One of the two items hasn't been officially announce to even be a real thing yet and still it might just win. [emoji1]


Hi,
I'm just tickled by the new competition from a local USA company I'll forgive some delays 
If too long for 30 series gpu I'll just go elsewhere seeing gpu blocks are always pretty close performance wise.
I'd wait for a optimus cpu block though


----------



## MakubeX

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I'm just tickled by the new competition from a local USA company I'll forgive some delays
> If too long for 30 series gpu I'll just go elsewhere seeing gpu blocks are always pretty close performance wise.
> I'd wait for a optimus cpu block though


Being that the XT CPUs just got announce and I'm not impressed at all with the 3900XT so I might just get a 3900X, I might end up getting an interim block seeing how long Optimus is taking. I don't think I can be patient enough to wait it out when I'm about to have all the parts for the new build. :laughings

Maybe a kryos cuplex next?


----------



## ThrashZone

MakubeX said:


> Being that the XT CPUs just got announce and I'm not impressed at all with the 3900XT so I might just get a 3900X, I might end up getting an interim block seeing how long Optimus is taking. I don't think I can be patient enough to wait it out when I'm about to have all the parts for the new build. :laughings
> 
> Maybe a kryos cuplex next?


Hi,
I don't have any amd blocks 
Only one that would be easy is a amd mount for heatkiller 4 pro so I would at least have one to use 

z490 Apex just showed up arty:


----------



## Shawnb99

I'm likely doing my next tear down this December. If the new 3090TI's are out by then I'll be going with the best block available. Optimus would have to beat it by 4-6 degrees to even think of changing. Hopefully by then they will have gotten all their issues sorted out and be producing new blocks. No mater how good they are they aren't worth waiting months for.


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> Thanks. Hopefully Optimus gets back on that. I did some dry fitting tests in my rig over the weekend and the current Optimus reservoir would work great as long as it won't leak with an d5 next used. So hence why i don't need the metal cooling base. It looks like it could work base on the pictures but i need to confirm it will.


So the big aluminum base on the pump/res is needed to seal the D5 to the system, it's not cosmetic. That's one of the reasons the system is nearly bomb proof. The mounting screws go through the pump top and into the billet base, making an insanely strong connection. 

I imagine one could mod/saw/hack the base apart, but not advisable. That's a lot of sawing  

Regarding shipping, we're rapidly making blocks now. We've done a number of additional manufacturing improvements to speed up production of both regular and upcoming products. Manufacturing gods willing, we'll have everything in stock constantly in the near future. 

As for 3080 Ti blocks, if NVIDIA isn't insane with their front/back/triangle whatever PCB design, we'll be able to cool the hell out of it. Smaller and hotter chips are our deal, so performance might scale similar to CPUs in the future, unlike GPUs in the past. we'll see how the rest of the little bonfires on the PCB look this next generation.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Modified is my middle name 

Found out ek magnitude 2066 will not mount on 1200 without more modifications lol 
Guess in ek's mind you can buy two blocks if you switch platforms


----------



## Section31

MakubeX said:


> ThrashZone said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> I'm just tickled by the new competition from a local USA company I'll forgive some delays
> If too long for 30 series gpu I'll just go elsewhere seeing gpu blocks are always pretty close performance wise.
> I'd wait for a optimus cpu block though /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Being that the XT CPUs just got announce and I'm not impressed at all with the 3900XT so I might just get a 3900X, I might end up getting an interim block seeing how long Optimus is taking. I don't think I can be patient enough to wait it out when I'm about to have all the parts for the new build. /forum/images/smilies/laughingsmiley.gif
> 
> Maybe a kryos cuplex next?
Click to expand...

I am sitting on an used xe-nickel optimus foundation atm and when i am done moving over to the caselabs s8 an copper am4 foundation. Could borrow to you as long as you return an block to me. Might be more complicated than you want with cross border shipping.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Borrow 
I'm also grateful optimus at least designed a mount that works on either intel platform :thumb:


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Borrow
> I'm also grateful optimus at least designed a mount that works on either intel platform :thumb:


Well cross border is an mess atm. Assuming you reach the canadian customs, you are looking at 3-4week wait for clearance and another week for delivery. This is the canadian side, I don't know about the US Side.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Well cross border is an mess atm. Assuming you reach the canadian customs, you are looking at 3-4week wait for clearance and another week for delivery. This is the canadian side, I don't know about the US Side.


Hi,
Yeah fill in your region 
But it's not really worth that shipping chore.


----------



## MakubeX

Section31 said:


> I am sitting on an used xe-nickel optimus foundation atm and when i am done moving over to the caselabs s8 an copper am4 foundation. Could borrow to you as long as you return an block to me. Might be more complicated than you want with cross border shipping.


That's super nice of you, I appreciate the gesture. Like you said, though, it might be too complicated right now due to COVID.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Well cross border is an mess atm. Assuming you reach the canadian customs, you are looking at 3-4week wait for clearance and another week for delivery. This is the canadian side, I don't know about the US Side.



Why would there be a 3-4 week delay for clearance at the border? I just got soundproofing from the US with no issues at the border. Also have a delivery from Hong Kong on Monday and don’t expect any delays with customs.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well cross border is an mess atm. Assuming you reach the canadian customs, you are looking at 3-4week wait for clearance and another week for delivery. This is the canadian side, I don't know about the US Side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why would there be a 3-4 week delay for clearance at the border? I just got soundproofing from the US with no issues at the border. Also have a delivery from Hong Kong on Monday and donâ€™️t expect any delays with customs.
Click to expand...

Not sure why some centers are worse than others. In canada, the west coast center seems fine but the one in ontario is backlogged.

My titan rigs order got stuck in East coast (Ontario) CBSA center there for 3weeks. My friends xe nickel optimus block is also stuck there now. Hopefully its case where they just forget to charge any sales taxes and processing fees. That’s the major benefit of asia orders, they underreport invoices for custom purposes. Here, you have to ask and not all are willing to do it.

It’s pretty funny at this point, It took me almost two months months to get in Japanese music cd album. Most of it was it stuck in an airport looking for an plane. Not mad as i preordered it like in Dec (i collect that artists album) and wouldn’t have gotten it had i not selected ems back then.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Not sure why some centers are worse than others. In canada, the west coast center seems fine but the one in ontario is backlogged.
> 
> My titan rigs order got stuck in Missauga CBSA center there for 3weeks.


Wow that must suck. I don't think I've ever had a hassle of more then a few days. 3 weeks I'd be pissed.


----------



## ObviousCough

AYYYYYYYY! My AMD Foundation block shipped today


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Wow that must suck. I don't think I've ever had a hassle of more then a few days. 3 weeks I'd be pissed.


I'm pretty patient. Actually longer sometimes is better, it means they might forget to charge sales taxes and processing fees.


----------



## MakubeX

ObviousCough said:


> AYYYYYYYY! My AMD Foundation block shipped today


Nice! How long ago did you order yours?


----------



## skupples

how bout dem GPU blocks dough? 

rebuilt the STH10 over the last few days, n got my aquaero fully dialed back in.

now all I hear is HOT GPU AIR, n simply hearing it makes me feel warmer. 

must. get. block.


----------



## dwolvin

Grab a cheap Barrow / Blyski block to tide you over. GPU blocks may take a bit and then the 3xxx series will be out...


----------



## Kashtan

I got rid of Apex XI, and look forward to Evga Dark Z490. Question - what should I do to fully realize the potential of my Sig2 Ultra Flat at 10900K? There were tests that show that ultra flat is not optimal for direct die. Should I order a normal coldplate for $ 64, or grind the surface of 10900K somehow?


----------



## Diffident

ObviousCough said:


> AYYYYYYYY! My AMD Foundation block shipped today



So did mine. :thumb:


I ordered it from PerformancePC's on May 15th. When I ordered mine it said it was in stock, then 2 days later I get an email saying that it's a preorder item. If I had known that beforehand I would have ordered the copper one instead of the nickel, since I like copper blocks. I only ordered the nickel because I thought it was in stock.


----------



## ObviousCough

MakubeX said:


> Nice! How long ago did you order yours?


31 days ago.


Diffident said:


> So did mine. :thumb:
> 
> 
> I ordered it from PerformancePC's on May 15th. When I ordered mine it said it was in stock, then 2 days later I get an email saying that it's a preorder item. If I had known that beforehand I would have ordered the copper one instead of the nickel, since I like copper blocks. I only ordered the nickel because I thought it was in stock.




dang, if i had ordered from them i could have had next day delivery.


----------



## 98S4

skupples said:


> how bout dem GPU blocks dough?
> 
> rebuilt the STH10 over the last few days, n got my aquaero fully dialed back in.
> 
> now all I hear is HOT GPU AIR, n simply hearing it makes me feel warmer.
> 
> must. get. block.


I've had a brand new system just waiting for the GPU block for months now. They have ignored every post and email recently. I've been patient for months but it's getting out of hand now that we can't even get an update. Looks like I need to start looking into more serious options to get a response. @Optimus WC


----------



## Optimus WC

Kashtan said:


> I got rid of Apex XI, and look forward to Evga Dark Z490. Question - what should I do to fully realize the potential of my Sig2 Ultra Flat at 10900K? There were tests that show that ultra flat is not optimal for direct die. Should I order a normal coldplate for $ 64, or grind the surface of 10900K somehow?


Hey, so neither of those solutions will work, unfortunately. What's happening is the the die frame sits too high, so the flat block isn't actually making contact with the die. Instead, our regular block has a die-shaped bow to fit inside the die frame. We designed the Sig V2 that way, though we haven't tested it with the 10900k frame. The coldplates are all the same, the bow is created by the block top. Really, your flat Sig block should work really well with the stock 10900k CPU since those IHS are strange. You can also try removing the internal o-ring, though actual results are very, very dependent on what your specific CPU IHS looks like. 



98S4 said:


> I've had a brand new system just waiting for the GPU block for months now. They have ignored every post and email recently. I've been patient for months but it's getting out of hand now that we can't even get an update. Looks like I need to start looking into more serious options to get a response. @Optimus WC


Oh how we can't wait for the day when this whole COVID era, 2020 year of hell is over. It's not really worth going into all the internal challenges we've had, but right now this is where we're at: we're now producing large quantities of regular blocks to handle the backorders and so shipping will be fast, hopefully next day for us and our partners. GPUs will come after that stage is done since it's basically all hands on deck dealing with normal production issues. There are a few more tweaks we need to do to the GPU before we can ship it, like finalize the new included backplate and order new Fujipoly pads. The backplate will be included free, and it's less a backplate rather than a back heatsink/mount system. I don't have an exact ETA, which is annoying I know. We really wish we did. We're doing a lot of things to make it better, so we can be #1 for speed of new release and shipping. 

So not the best news, I know, though we're trying to do the right thing, which is only ship products that are awesome, not do what other companies do who end up getting slammed on GamersNexus or Two Cents. If you want a refund or anything, just let me know. If you want to wait for the 3080/3090/whatever block, that's cool as well. Unless NVIDIA is absolutely insane with a double sized rombus PCB, then we'll have a block ready to go soon after launch.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Unfortunately covid era will never go away dems love the new powers they have too much 
You'll have to jump to another state


----------



## skupples

please stop coming to florida.


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Unfortunately covid era will never go away dems love the new powers they have too much
> You'll have to jump to another state


If they would just stop testing COVID would go away tomorrow.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Kashtan said:
> 
> 
> 
> I got rid of Apex XI, and look forward to Evga Dark Z490. Question - what should I do to fully realize the potential of my Sig2 Ultra Flat at 10900K? There were tests that show that ultra flat is not optimal for direct die. Should I order a normal coldplate for $ 64, or grind the surface of 10900K somehow?
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, so neither of those solutions will work, unfortunately. What's happening is the the die frame sits too high, so the flat block isn't actually making contact with the die. Instead, our regular block has a die-shaped bow to fit inside the die frame. We designed the Sig V2 that way, though we haven't tested it with the 10900k frame. The coldplates are all the same, the bow is created by the block top. Really, your flat Sig block should work really well with the stock 10900k CPU since those IHS are strange. You can also try removing the internal o-ring, though actual results are very, very dependent on what your specific CPU IHS looks like.
> 
> 
> 
> 98S4 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've had a brand new system just waiting for the GPU block for months now. They have ignored every post and email recently. I've been patient for months but it's getting out of hand now that we can't even get an update. Looks like I need to start looking into more serious options to get a response. @Optimus WC
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh how we can't wait for the day when this whole COVID era, 2020 year of hell is over. It's not really worth going into all the internal challenges we've had, but right now this is where we're at: we're now producing large quantities of regular blocks to handle the backorders and so shipping will be fast, hopefully next day for us and our partners. GPUs will come after that stage is done since it's basically all hands on deck dealing with normal production issues. There are a few more tweaks we need to do to the GPU before we can ship it, like finalize the new included backplate and order new Fujipoly pads. The backplate will be included free, and it's less a backplate rather than a back heatsink/mount system. I don't have an exact ETA, which is annoying I know. We really wish we did. We're doing a lot of things to make it better, so we can be #1 for speed of new release and shipping.
> 
> So not the best news, I know, though we're trying to do the right thing, which is only ship products that are awesome, not do what other companies do who end up getting slammed on GamersNexus or Two Cents. If you want a refund or anything, just let me know. If you want to wait for the 3080/3090/whatever block, that's cool as well. Unless NVIDIA is absolutely insane with a double sized rombus PCB, then we'll have a block ready to go soon after launch.
Click to expand...

Good to hear. And i managed to convince three people to buy your waterblocks at ppcs with there 20% off sale.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
They must of been buying other stuff 20% off is 300.us+ purchase.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> They must of been buying other stuff 20% off is 300.us+ purchase.


Only the cpu block. Thats all they needed. They heard a lot of good things about there block for intel/amd


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> If they would just stop testing COVID would go away tomorrow.


Hi,
You'll have to protest for them to stop testing but they will also have to agree with your view otherwise 1000.us fine


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> They must of been buying other stuff 20% off is 300.us+ purchase.


My running line is now convinced/bought total of 4 x Intel Foundation, 5 x Amd Foundation, 1 x Signature, 1 x 2080Ti Block, 1 x Reservoir, 2 x Orders of Fittings.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Canadian hoarder


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Canadian hoarder /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


More like free advertising for Optimus lol.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah it's all good until they run out of stock


----------



## Avacado

Section31 said:


> Good to hear. And i managed to convince three people to buy your waterblocks at ppcs with there 20% off sale.


Pass that 20% code pwease. Only ever seen 15%, now they got wise, used to be 299$ plus, now it's 499$ for 15%.


----------



## Section31

Avacado said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good to hear. And i managed to convince three people to buy your waterblocks at ppcs with there 20% off sale.
> 
> 
> 
> Pass that 20% code pwease. Only ever seen 15%, now they got wise, used to be 299$ plus, now it's 499$ for 15%.
Click to expand...

Its on ppcs site, 10% off and add there fathers day coupon code


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Sure it's not OCN55 and then fathers day code ?


----------



## blackzaru

Section31 said:


> More like free advertising for Optimus lol.


Can confirm, now have an AMD foundation block on the way.

You should ask Optimus for commission at this point. hahahaha

On a more serious note, I hope it will lay flat on my lapped 3950X.


----------



## Optimus WC

blackzaru said:


> Can confirm, now have an AMD foundation block on the way.
> 
> You should ask Optimus for commission at this point. hahahaha
> 
> On a more serious note, I hope it will lay flat on my lapped 3950X.


Lol, he's the reason no one else can get blocks  Joking, we super appreciate all the support!

For lapped IHS, remove the center o-ring and it'll conform better. Basically, one block for both regular and lapped. A side benefit of ditching the steel jet slot


----------



## blackzaru

Optimus WC said:


> Lol, he's the reason no one else can get blocks  Joking, we super appreciate all the support!
> 
> For lapped IHS, remove the center o-ring and it'll conform better. Basically, one block for both regular and lapped. A side benefit of ditching the steel jet slot


Thank you for the tip.


----------



## masterskop

*Got the block!*

@Optimus WC

Can I say NICE QUALITY! Packaging is outstanding. I was surprised at the security seal on the box. Added a load of confidence in American made products once again. PPCS did a nice touch by added their surprise in the box! Optimus put a lot of thought into the packaging with the foam padding for protecting the waterblock. The shipping box as you can tell had not bubble wrap but the styrofoam peanuts! Took pics and posting them. Can't wait to get the wb installed!

Worth the wait!

masterskop


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC so will my dual pumps be out by December for my next tear down?


----------



## Optimus WC

masterskop said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Can I say NICE QUALITY! Packaging is outstanding. I was surprised at the security seal on the box. Added a load of confidence in American made products once again. PPCS did a nice touch by added their surprise in the box! Optimus put a lot of thought into the packaging with the foam padding for protecting the waterblock. The shipping box as you can tell had not bubble wrap but the styrofoam peanuts! Took pics and posting them. Can't wait to get the wb installed!
> 
> Worth the wait!


Awesome!! Glad you dig it  




Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC so will my dual pumps be out by December for my next tear down?



December of...2020? Lol, so what type of double pump does everyone want?? Side-by-side or face-to-face? Res? No res? Logos everywhere?


----------



## skupples

idk if you've ever shopped for genuinely classy clothes, but they're typically quite lacking in labels.

unless its hipster/kids clothing.

whatever is most space efficient & flow efficient.


----------



## Shawnb99

While keeping that heat sink pump case design. Of course a res and no res version


----------



## Optimus WC

skupples said:


> idk if you've ever shopped for genuinely classy clothes, but they're typically quite lacking in labels.
> 
> unless its hipster/kids clothing.
> 
> whatever is most space efficient & flow efficient.


We don't do "classy" here at Optimus. All RGBs and giant logos, you know how we are.

PUMP: We haven't tested the styles out there. But any thoughts on series vs parallel?


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> We don't do "classy" here at Optimus. All RGBs and giant logos, you know how we are.
> 
> PUMP: We haven't tested the styles out there. But any thoughts on series vs parallel?


Series. Always series. D5's really don't need the increase of flow from parallel but they do need the extra head from series


----------



## Avacado

Shawnb99 said:


> Series. Always series. D5's really don't need the increase of flow from parallel but they do need the extra head from series


+1


----------



## Mxj1

Out of the dual pump mounts I've seen, I went with the alphacool brass top. It places the pumps in series. It's quite impressive, and keeps the pumps extremely quiet at 100%. I think this is because of its mass, and the rubber mounting isolators.

One thing that i would be curious to see is a dual pump setup that doesn't require three 90* bends to go from the outlet of pump one into the inlet of pump two. I think I would try looking at something that places the pumps perpendicular to each other with the outlet of pump 1 pumping directly into the inlet of pump two. I don't think that this orientation would affect the pumps at all either. 

This would require a bit more space I presume, but it would also let you mount something like the D5 Next in the pump two location, and get a read out from the data available... you know, if you wanted lcd screens, and flashy rgb lighting on your pump.

...but mounting options, needs lots of mounting options. 

For logos, perhaps a very classy-subtle Optimus logo somewhere on the face? I know you guys have acrylic figured out, but I would be hesitant buying this part made from acrylic, fwiw. I may not speak for the majority though.


----------



## dwolvin

I would also like to see series D5's without the u-turn between pumps. 



And due to the sarcasm above, I want the Optimus logo to be 20pt and RGB.


----------



## skupples

guy on OCN did some work on serial/par
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1573189-serial-vs-parallel-9-6lpm.html

must've been saner then.


----------



## Optimus WC

Interesting, yeah I'm not sure a side-by-side can be made without a world of 90 degree turns. That's why the face-to-face design exists. Though I'm not an engineer, so all speculation on my part. 

What's the verdict from that massive series v parallel thread? Going blind trying to read it 

And any thoughts on non-D5 pumps out there? The big dog pond pumps?


----------



## Mxj1

Optimus WC said:


> Interesting, yeah I'm not sure a side-by-side can be made without a world of 90 degree turns. That's why the face-to-face design exists. Though I'm not an engineer, so all speculation on my part.
> 
> What's the verdict from that massive series v parallel thread? Going blind trying to read it
> 
> And any thoughts on non-D5 pumps out there? The big dog pond pumps?


The face to face design still requires some turns to get the fluid out and into the next pump. I also think the face to face design leaves less mounting options. I always understood not to mount the d5 with the impeller down, so I presume any vertical mounting on a face to face is no-go.

Back when Danger Den and DTEK were the big names, we used the pond pumps. I remember some of the hassles that came from them were their physical size, how loud they were, and the 110v requirement for power.

I think D5 is the sweet-spot, dare I say standard for any enthusiast pump. Make a good thing better.


----------



## blackzaru

Optimus WC said:


> We don't do "classy" here at Optimus. All RGBs and giant logos, you know how we are.
> 
> PUMP: We haven't tested the styles out there. But any thoughts on series vs parallel?


Always series with decent pumps. People are aiming for more head pressure.

As for the question about pumps, D5 are obvious choices, DDC are also popular, but they generally have a lower flow rate, but more head pressure. So, if you do consider a "head to head" pump design with a "Pump - T - Pump" (purely 90 degrees holes) configuration, I guess DDC pumps would be better, as their higher head pressure would prevent one pump to "hinder" the work of the other pump. A "Pump - Y - pump" (45 degrees holes, meeting at a 90 degrees angle to both push water out of the pump assembly) would fit both D5 and DDC pumps relatively equally (and would probably be more efficient by preventing pressure loss in a "T" junction, although, way harder to perfectly achieve).

On a side note: Just received this bad boy mere minutes ago.


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> Interesting, yeah I'm not sure a side-by-side can be made without a world of 90 degree turns. That's why the face-to-face design exists. Though I'm not an engineer, so all speculation on my part.
> 
> What's the verdict from that massive series v parallel thread? Going blind trying to read it
> 
> And any thoughts on non-D5 pumps out there? The big dog pond pumps?


serial, 99% of the time. nearly impossible to find anyone even selling parallel tops anymore.

the problem with DDC is noise, and cheap clones sullying the genuine Laing models' name. 

my MCP35x2 is pushing 450LPH right now  (4 480s, one block) 

no point though, so its running @ 220, as DDCs need restriction to not burn up supposedly.


----------



## SgtMcRuff

I would like to see a series d5 pump with reducing cabling, so only one power cable and single pwm cable that y spilts at end for both pumps rpm readings.


----------



## Shawnb99

SgtMcRuff said:


> I would like to see a series d5 pump with reducing cabling, so only one power cable and single pwm cable that y spilts at end for both pumps rpm readings.


So if one pump dies it still gets power? How would you go about replacing it?


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> serial, 99% of the time. nearly impossible to find anyone even selling parallel tops anymore.
> 
> the problem with DDC is noise, and cheap clones sullying the genuine Laing models' name.
> 
> my MCP35x2 is pushing 450LPH right now  (4 480s, one block)
> 
> no point though, so its running @ 220, as DDCs need restriction to not burn up supposedly.


Yeah if you guys can find a way to quiet the DDC's I'd be all over that then D5's. I have to keep my MCP35x2's under 39% RPM to be quiet otherwise I can easily hear them. 180LPH is enough for me. 
Though I shouldn't hear nothing once I soundproof it all.


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah if you guys can find a way to quiet the DDC's I'd be all over that then D5's. I have to keep my MCP35x2's under 39% RPM to be quiet otherwise I can easily hear them. 180LPH is enough for me.
> Though I shouldn't hear nothing once I soundproof it all.


have fun with that sound proofing project.

I ended up only sound proofing my back door, cuz cutting out & lining all my super vented / XXL window panels was too much work.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> have fun with that sound proofing project.
> 
> I ended up only sound proofing my back door, cuz cutting out & lining all my super vented / XXL window panels was too much work.


Thanks I want at least do both doors, bottom of the pedestal and my extended top. Debating ordering some sheets of 4mm and 7mm to cram even more in there but yeah it'll be a lot of work, might not worth the effort.


----------



## skupples

the only issue I ended up having was having to cut out a square where the back door meets the 4x SSD holder.

you won't have that issue though


----------



## Kashtan

Optimus WC said:


> Hey, so neither of those solutions will work, unfortunately. What's happening is the the die frame sits too high, so the flat block isn't actually making contact with the die. Instead, our regular block has a die-shaped bow to fit inside the die frame. We designed the Sig V2 that way, though we haven't tested it with the 10900k frame. The coldplates are all the same, the bow is created by the block top. Really, your flat Sig block should work really well with the stock 10900k CPU since those IHS are strange. You can also try removing the internal o-ring, though actual results are very, very dependent on what your specific CPU IHS looks like.


Thank you very much, i trying to removed o-rings. 
I see several scenarios of possible events here:
1) Just install with thermal grease (tfx)
2) Easy installation on liquid metal (Pro)
3) Grinding and polishing the 10900K cover of IHS
4) Delidding
5) Delidding with lapped
6) Delidding and uses liquid metal under and upper original IHS.
7) Delidding. lapped and Copper IHS from rockitcool
8) Direct Die with lapped cpu and frame (my from rockitcool)

What is best from this?


----------



## masterskop

@Optimus WC

Love to block but mounting it is a different story. I've tried the way that the install instructions state. Retaining nut behind the board and the post going into the retaining nut. Also using the washer provided. The Asus motherboard mounting holes are way too big for this type of setup. I have an Asus CH8 formula. I do have the EK hardware for the supremacy evo setup for intel/amd and the ek backplate with rubber padding. The hardware sent via Optimus doesn't work with the EK hardware. I'll update later on my progress.

Thanks!


----------



## Avacado

Kashtan said:


> Thank you very much, i trying to removed o-rings.
> I see several scenarios of possible events here:
> 1) Just install with thermal grease (tfx)
> 2) Easy installation on liquid metal (Pro)
> 3) Grinding and polishing the 10900K cover of IHS
> 4) Delidding
> 5) Delidding with lapped
> 6) Delidding and uses liquid metal under and upper original IHS.
> 7) Delidding. lapped and Copper IHS from rockitcool
> 8) Direct Die with lapped cpu and frame (my from rockitcool)
> 
> What is best from this?


#8 Should yield the best temps in theory. Removal of layers of thermal transfer will always net better gains.


----------



## skupples

local hardware usually has a wide array of weird plastic washers.


----------



## Shawnb99

Kashtan said:


> Thank you very much, i trying to removed o-rings.
> I see several scenarios of possible events here:
> 1) Just install with thermal grease (tfx)
> 2) Easy installation on liquid metal (Pro)
> 3) Grinding and polishing the 10900K cover of IHS
> 4) Delidding
> 5) Delidding with lapped
> 6) Delidding and uses liquid metal under and upper original IHS.
> 7) Delidding. lapped and Copper IHS from rockitcool
> 8) Direct Die with lapped cpu and frame (my from rockitcool)
> 
> What is best from this?


#8 should work best in theory if not #7 should work great since the Copper IHS should be flat and perfect for the ultra flat block.


----------



## Mxj1

masterskop said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Love to block but mounting it is a different story. I've tried the way that the install instructions state. Retaining nut behind the board and the post going into the retaining nut. Also using the washer provided. The Asus motherboard mounting holes are way too big for this type of setup. I have an Asus CH8 formula. I do have the EK hardware for the supremacy evo setup for intel/amd and the ek backplate with rubber padding. The hardware sent via Optimus doesn't work with the EK hardware. I'll update later on my progress.
> 
> Thanks!


I've got the crosshair viii hero. I also thought the mounting hardware was janky.
I ended up taking a a spare back plate I had, and running a #29 drill bit through the back plate, tapping it to m4 x 0.7 and using bolts going in from the back to act as studs for the optimus thumb nuts to mount on. Works a treat.


----------



## TK421

Same issue on torx screws, 2.5mm small and 3mm too big.


What size is used in terms of Metric?




Recommend to remove the center o-ring?


@*ThrashZone*


----------



## masterskop

I think that I got the solution for my board. I did end up using two nylon plastic spacers. As you can tell from the picture the setup that I used in order to mount the Optimus Foundation AMD wb to the Asus CH8 Formula board.

Here's what I had with the numbers representing the parts used in the picture. What's not in the picture is the EK AMD backplate with rubbing backing.

1. Nut supplied by Optimus (That nut is screwed all the way down btw)
2. Nylon plastic washer
3. Spring bought at Lowe's hardware store - (7.94mm x 38.10mm x .5mm) comes in a 4 piece package
4. Small space between the Optimus Foundation WB bottom side facing the CPU. I did use a TIM that made the wb stuck to the CPU. Took forever to get it off. Had to unscrew the EK posts from the backplate. Let the backplate fall off the backside of the board and the slowly move the wb back and forth until it released. As you are moving the wb in a slow twisting motion from left to right, right to left check and make sure that the cpu is not moving. I used a flashlight to check this process. If it moves with the wb, you have an issue. 
5. EK AMD post
6. Nylon plastic washer

**On #4 the small space. It really does need to be there. It's one of the ways you can tell if the waterblock is sitting on the top of the cpu. If the space isn't there, then your waterblock may be sitting on the post base #5 and you may or may not have contact with the top of the cpu. That would be bad news.

If you use this setup, you do it at your own risk.


----------



## ThrashZone

masterskop said:


> I think that I got the solution for my board. I did end up using two nylon plastic spacers. As you can tell from the picture the setup that I used in order to mount the Optimus Foundation AMD wb to the Asus CH8 Formula board.
> 
> Here's what I had with the numbers representing the parts used in the picture. What's not in the picture is the EK AMD backplate with rubbing backing.
> 
> 1. Nut supplied by Optimus (That nut is screwed all the way down btw)
> 2. Nylon plastic washer
> 3. Spring bought at Lowe's hardware store - (7.94mm x 38.10mm x .5mm) comes in a 4 piece package
> 4. Small space between the Optimus Foundation WB bottom side facing the CPU. I did use a TIM that made the wb stuck to the CPU. Took forever to get it off. Had to unscrew the EK posts from the backplate. Let the backplate fall off the backside of the board and the slowly move the wb back and forth until it released. As you are moving the wb in a slow twisting motion from left to right, right to left check and make sure that the cpu is not moving. I used a flashlight to check this process. If it moves with the wb, you have an issue.
> 5. EK AMD post
> 6. Nylon plastic washer
> 
> **On #4 the small space. It really does need to be there. It's one of the ways you can tell if the waterblock is sitting on the top of the cpu. If the space isn't there, then your waterblock may be sitting on the post base #5 and you may or may not have contact with the top of the cpu. That would be bad news.
> 
> If you use this setup, you do it at your own risk.


Hi,
I'm pretty sure even amd optimus blocks are all springless now days.
So you ditched the springless mount and used a mix for mount 
Well I've been known to mix it up on mounts lol all to springless for best results so not sure what you accomplish turning a spring into a squashed washer ?


----------



## Hequaqua

While I can see both ways....I do have to agree that the mounting kit that comes with a $100.00+ block isn't the best. The holes in my mb(Gigabyte Aorus X470 Gaming 7) are a bit on the large side too. I would feel better mounting the Opt to the backplate...with or without springs. I know it's functional(as in temps are fine), *but to me that is the weakest link in the whole block*.

Also, having to mount the posts with the nut on the backside of the mb....be very careful....I've dropped two down there already....nothing more fun that taking out half the mounting screws for the mb to get it to drop down from behind the board.....that one is on me, but if the mounting posts would fit into the supplied backplate...that wouldn't even be a issue. 

I will be 100% honest....I do think the Heatkiller is a better mounting solution. I did try the mounting posts for the Heatkiller with the Optimus...but the posts are tapered, so it doesn't allow the block to even get close to the cpu.


----------



## skupples

just a heads up - the nylon on the board is only preventing scratching, not shorting. ( i nylon front & back too, not the top of the posts though) ... unless its also keeping the post from falling thru ! 

glad you got something figured.


----------



## Mxj1

Hequaqua said:


> While I can see both ways....I do have to agree that the mounting kit that comes with a $100.00+ block isn't the best. The holes in my mb(Gigabyte Aorus X470 Gaming 7) are a bit on the large side too. I would feel better mounting the Opt to the backplate...with or without springs. I know it's functional(as in temps are fine), *but to me that is the weakest link in the whole block*.
> 
> Also, having to mount the posts with the nut on the backside of the mb....be very careful....I've dropped two down there already....nothing more fun that taking out half the mounting screws for the mb to get it to drop down from behind the board.....that one is on me, but if the mounting posts would fit into the supplied backplate...that wouldn't even be a issue.
> 
> I will be 100% honest....I do think the Heatkiller is a better mounting solution. I did try the mounting posts for the Heatkiller with the Optimus...but the posts are tapered, so it doesn't allow the block to even get close to the cpu.


I agree wholeheartedly. They really missed the mark with their mounting solution. Is been interesting trying to discuss this though. You two are the first people that I've found that had similar thoughts to my own. It's almost like nobody wants to talk about it...

I can't figure out why Optimus did not match the thread size of the past with the thread size of the back plate. This would have made the whole installation easier and more consistent, as well as reduced manufacturing costs as they eliminated unnecessary parts.


----------



## Hequaqua

Mxj1 said:


> I agree wholeheartedly. They really missed the mark with their mounting solution. Is been interesting trying to discuss this though. You two are the first people that I've found that had similar thoughts to my own. It's almost like nobody wants to talk about it...
> 
> I can't figure out why Optimus did not match the thread size of the past with the thread size of the back plate. This would have made the whole installation easier and more consistent, as well as reduced manufacturing costs as they eliminated unnecessary parts.


Yep.....Overall happy with the performance...but the mounting....sorry...it's got to go.....feels really cheap and to be honest, not really well thought out for a "premium" product.


----------



## Mxj1

masterskop said:


> I think that I got the solution for my board. I did end up using two nylon plastic spacers. As you can tell from the picture the setup that I used in order to mount the Optimus Foundation AMD wb to the Asus CH8 Formula board.
> 
> Here's what I had with the numbers representing the parts used in the picture. What's not in the picture is the EK AMD backplate with rubbing backing.
> 
> 1. Nut supplied by Optimus (That nut is screwed all the way down btw)
> 2. Nylon plastic washer
> 3. Spring bought at Lowe's hardware store - (7.94mm x 38.10mm x .5mm) comes in a 4 piece package
> 4. Small space between the Optimus Foundation WB bottom side facing the CPU. I did use a TIM that made the wb stuck to the CPU. Took forever to get it off. Had to unscrew the EK posts from the backplate. Let the backplate fall off the backside of the board and the slowly move the wb back and forth until it released. As you are moving the wb in a slow twisting motion from left to right, right to left check and make sure that the cpu is not moving. I used a flashlight to check this process. If it moves with the wb, you have an issue.
> 5. EK AMD post
> 6. Nylon plastic washer
> 
> **On #4 the small space. It really does need to be there. It's one of the ways you can tell if the waterblock is sitting on the top of the cpu. If the space isn't there, then your waterblock may be sitting on the post base #5 and you may or may not have contact with the top of the cpu. That would be bad news.
> 
> If you use this setup, you do it at your own risk.



I'm glad you got something you're satisfied with.

That being said, I think this solution unnecessarily complicates the mounting and the spring becomes pointless once it's coil bound as your photo shows.. as well as distracts from the aesthetics of the block. :h34r-smi

This is what I came up with after fiddling with a few different things. I really wanted to keep the back plate and a solid mount.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...mus-waterblock-post28437520.html#post28437520

I'm not trying to come off as condescending, and I'm glad that we're discussing the shortfalls of this otherwise awesome product. I'm only trying to offer some perspective. :thumb:

...and I think Optimus should make a change here, but I'm just a guy that tinkers with my computer in my basement.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I use the intel foundation on 1200 socket without a back plate works just fine even tried it with the back plate and it was wonky just as optimus said it would be
Not sure what the paranoia is about, it's only supposed to be finger tight.


----------



## masterskop

I think that having a backplate for me was a good option. I perfer to have a sturdy setup. The reason why I had to go with the springs is that screw down nuts from both EK and Optimus would not go all the way down to the waterblock. I'm not so worried about looks but function. My last board was about looks as well as function. That board didn't have the armour backplate to keep the board from bending due to the weight. The waterblocks on the ram setup bent the board after 6 years of abuse . I kind of wish Asus made a rampage black edition like the the IV version that came out a while back but with all the newer tech on it w/ a mobo backplate. I had that thing decked out. With that board and all the dual loop water cooling hardware w/ a Cosmos II case modified, it took my wife and I to move it. Now, I'm just trying to make it work. I don't know if I'll stick with the Cosmos case or not. I was thinking about going to the Primochill Praxis wetbench. I've been debating also whether to still do the hard tubing or go soft.

I took a pic of the board with the Optimus block on it. It doesn't look to bad as you face it from the front.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Wow punctuation isn't your thing though lol 
Try using the enter key once in a while after you use a period and before you use a capital letter for the next word


----------



## masterskop

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I'm pretty sure even amd optimus blocks are all springless now days.
> So you ditched the springless mount and used a mix for mount
> Well I've been known to mix it up on mounts lol all to springless for best results so not sure what you accomplish turning a spring into a squashed washer ?





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Wow punctuation isn't your thing though lol
> Try using the enter key once in a while after you use a period and before you use a capital letter for the next word


Nah, it really isn't ...


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah keep it short and sweet then because walls of text most people pass by


----------



## masterskop

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I use the intel foundation on 1200 socket without a back plate works just fine even tried it with the back plate and it was wonky just as optimus said it would be
> Not sure what the paranoia is about, it's only supposed to be finger tight.


So, what happened with the 1200 socket backplate? Were the 1200 socket backplate mounting holes too far away(few mm) from the board's mounting holes by the cpu?

Just love the edit button


----------



## ThrashZone

masterskop said:


> So, what happened with the 1200 socket backplate? Were the 1200 socket backplate mounting holes too far away(few mm) from the board's mounting holes by the cpu?
> 
> Just love the edit button


Hi,
Edit button ?

Just spongy I guess, plastic washers, back plate too which is also plastic only the threaded part was metal so it wasn't very sturdy even for finger tightening.

Feels better without the back plate. 


Spoiler


----------



## masterskop

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Edit button ?
> 
> Just spongy I guess, plastic washers, back plate too which is also plastic only the threaded part was metal so it wasn't very sturdy even for finger tightening.
> 
> Feels better without the back plate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler


I love editing my posts after reviewing the multi errors that I have 

Yes, a plastic backplate would be an issue. I wished that all motherboard manufactures would make metal backplates that were standard in size with a rubber insert for protection. This would allow for all sorts of options for air or watercooling. Keep costs down to the end user.

Yes, just looked at the picture that you posted.


----------



## masterskop

The CH8 Formula came with this backplate. Couldn't use it. Wrong size mounting holes. If I had the right tools, I would have drilled and tapped the mounting holes.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Just need to make a trip to the hardware store


----------



## masterskop

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Just need to make a trip to the hardware store


Yep!


----------



## Mxj1

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I use the intel foundation on 1200 socket without a back plate works just fine even tried it with the back plate and it was wonky just as optimus said it would be
> Not sure what the paranoia is about, it's only supposed to be finger tight.


Was the _wonky_ with a plastic back plate?


----------



## Mxj1

masterskop said:


> Yep!


Needs#29 drill bit, and m4 x 0.7 tap.

I can't recall if screws are 15 or 20 mm... Get a couple lengths. ????


----------



## TK421

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I'm pretty sure even amd optimus blocks are all springless now days.
> So you ditched the springless mount and used a mix for mount
> Well I've been known to mix it up on mounts lol all to springless for best results so not sure what you accomplish turning a spring into a squashed washer ?





Have issue on torx screws, 2.5mm small and 3mm too big. I can't remove the top plate to remove the mounting plate.


What size do I have to use?





Also do you recommend to remove the center o-ring?


----------



## ThrashZone

Mxj1 said:


> Was the _wonky_ with a plastic back plate?


Hi,
Yes I'd have to look back pages here to find optimus description but it was spot on correct.
Best without the back plate or at least their back plate I don't have another to try.


----------



## Mxj1

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yes I'd have to look back pages here to find optimus description but it was spot on correct.
> Best without the back plate _or at least their back plate I don't have another to try._


I think this is the important factor. AM4 has steel back plate to support the socket and water block. Removing this to mount a waterblock is janky. :cheers:


----------



## ThrashZone

Mxj1 said:


> I think this is the important factor. AM4 has steel back plate to support the socket and water block. Removing this to mount a waterblock is janky. :cheers:


Hi,
I've always used what ever mount works best so it might be from a different block it makes no difference in the end whatever works.


----------



## masterskop

Mxj1 said:


> I think this is the important factor. AM4 has steel back plate to support the socket and water block. Removing this to mount a waterblock is janky. :cheers:


I really couldn't see a AM4 motherboard without a backplate for any air or water cpu cooler. I think one of the main reasons that could happen is if the Optimus mounting system failed somehow and the block took the cpu right out of the socket. Time will tell on this situation. If users see their blocks start to move downward a bit due to the weight, then it would be a mounting issue. 

Well, an anti esthetic looking or even a nice looking clippable mount could be a plausible answer to the mounting situation with any waterblock. After looking at the wrath prism and it's mounting clips, I could see somebody develop a clippable version mounting system for CPU waterblocks. Motherboards that had the clip mounts already on them could be used for either waterblocks or air coolers. I could go for that. Wouldn't have to mess with screws. I think those with wetbenches would be able to change out waterblocks faster to test products out at a quicker pace. Wouldn't have to remove the motherboard to take apart any type of hardware unless to clean the motherboard. Wonder if it could be done with the current AMD Foundation block?


----------



## Hequaqua

Well.....did my own combo of mounting......not the best pics in the world.

I tapped out the mounting "nut" of the original plate from the mb. Bought four M4/30mm screws/nuts/washers. I kinda of guessed at the length. Probably could have went shorter, but it works. I used the plastic washer/spring/mounting nut from the Heatkiller. Took about 10-15mins. Temps seem even better now. 



Spoiler






























We'll see how it does......have to say...the Heatkiller mounting kit seems much more robust and just feels like better quality all the way around. :thumb:


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
2066 socket heatkiller 4 pro mount is terrible.
115/.. is back to norm but back plate sold separately lol so back to square one


----------



## masterskop

Hequaqua said:


> Well.....did my own combo of mounting......not the best pics in the world.
> 
> I tapped out the mounting "nut" of the original plate from the mb. Bought four M4/30mm screws/nuts/washers. I kinda of guessed at the length. Probably could have went shorter, but it works. I used the plastic washer/spring/mounting nut from the Heatkiller. Took about 10-15mins. Temps seem even better now.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 355882
> 
> 
> View attachment 355884
> 
> 
> View attachment 355886
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We'll see how it does......have to say...the Heatkiller mounting kit seems much more robust and just feels like better quality all the way around. :thumb:



I might tap my original plate as well. So, you drilled it out first then tapped it? I need to get a tapping set.


----------



## Mxj1

masterskop said:


> I might tap my original plate as well. So, you drilled it out first then tapped it? I need to get a tapping set.


Drill out the existing threads with a #29 drill bit. Then use the m4 x0.7 tap. This will cut a perfect thread for you to screw the books in from the back side. Get the length right, and you can use the Optimus nuts.

This is such a common size tap you should be able to purchase it individually at any of the big box hardware stores. Having a tap set is nice though. Mine paid for itself many years ago. It was $500.


----------



## Kashtan

Avacado said:


> #8 Should yield the best temps in theory. Removal of layers of thermal transfer will always net better gains.





Shawnb99 said:


> #8 should work best in theory if not #7 should work great since the Copper IHS should be flat and perfect for the ultra flat block.


As far as I understand, the support of Optimus complains not about the curvature of the surface of the Die, but that the coldplate sits on the frame, and not on the Die.
Again - if I understood correctly.
Therefore, it is clear that option 8 will be ideal, especially if you remove a 100-200 micron from the bare-die surface, but option 7 would be ideal if there were IHS from silver, or even just a nickel, then I would put liquid metal on top of this IHS.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah they said sigV2 bow will reach the die but the rest of the base of the block is too large for a flat version cold plate to reach it.
Basically delid is fine I wouldn't lap the chip you'd be kissing the warranty bye bye but rockit has a copper cap for the chip that's part of the delid kit that makes more sense even with liquid metal.


----------



## Hequaqua

masterskop said:


> I might tap my original plate as well. So, you drilled it out first then tapped it? I need to get a tapping set.


My bad...poor choice of words.....I didn't tap the plate....I just removed the mounting bolts with a hammer....lol

The screw is not threaded through the plate. Might check into that though....can get a super cheap set of tap/dies for like $10.00....should be good enough to get at least 4 tapped. I'm sure I have at least one more backplate around here....lol

_____________________________

On another note....with this mounted like this...my VRM temps also came down. I'm wondering if the heat is being spread to the backplate is responsible for that?


----------



## Kashtan

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah they said sigV2 bow will reach the die but the rest of the base of the block is too large for a flat version cold plate to reach it.
> Basically delid is fine I wouldn't lap the chip you'd be kissing the warranty bye bye but rockit has a copper cap for the chip that's part of the delid kit that makes more sense even with liquid metal.


Hi.
I have got 9th Gen Direct to Die frame.
https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/collections/9th-gen-cpu/products/9th-gen-direct-to-die-frame

This IHS be better? For case of 10900K sure. 
https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/collections/10th-gen/products/copper-ihs-for-10th-gen
I can uses liquid metal on top this IHS - between coldplate Sig2 and surface of IHS?


----------



## ThrashZone

Kashtan said:


> Hi.
> I have got 9th Gen Direct to Die frame.
> https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/collections/9th-gen-cpu/products/9th-gen-direct-to-die-frame
> 
> This IHS be better? For case of 10900K sure.
> https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/collections/10th-gen/products/copper-ihs-for-10th-gen
> I can uses liquid metal on top this IHS - between coldplate Sig2 and surface of IHS?


Hi,
I don't know if it's for 10900k or not but yes it would be best to not void the intel warranty this early by lapping off the serial #... off the cap.
I've read they have terrible response for questions too almost as bad as optimus


----------



## Kashtan

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I don't know if it's for 10900k or not but yes it would be best to not void the intel warranty this early by lapping off the serial #... off the cap.
> I've read they have terrible response for questions too almost as bad as optimus


Warranty this not question - when broken my 9900KS, set native HIS back, and return to shop - money is back. 
I don`t polished native HIS.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Good policy


----------



## criskoe

I messaged Rockit cool regarding the 10th gen cpus. His response was 

"The 10th Gen copper is specially made for the 10th gen CPU.
I set the glue gap at 0.15mm, same as all of our other copper IHS.
The total thickness is the same as stock 10th gen so it will work with
any type of water block or air cooler including monoblocks."

So in other words these are not just a repackaged 9th gen copper IHS. They are different and are made specially for the 10th gen. 

He also confirmed "The delid tool is the same one we've been making since 2016 and works 100% with the 10th Gen."


Until they release their direct die frame, this will be the best option unless your willing to run direct die with no hold down frame (Naked) This can be done with thermal pads to stabilize the chip and Ive read someone doing this and worked well with a 9900ks. But its something you would have to be comfortable and careful with as when you remove the block the cpu will stick to the block and come out of the socket. Dont let it fall off and land in the socket damaging your socket pins


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, we'll be making updated AMD mounting posts this week so you can use the stock AMD backplate with our block. While our block has A+ performance with the current system, people really, really want to use the backplate, so here we are . If you're in the US and want them, we'll send them to you for free. International will need to cover shipping.


----------



## Hequaqua

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we'll be making updated AMD mounting posts this week so you can use the stock AMD backplate with our block. While our block has A+ performance with the current system, people really, really want to use the backplate, so here we are . If you're in the US and want them, we'll send them to you for free. International will need to cover shipping.


Let us know when and how to go about getting them.....


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we'll be making updated AMD mounting posts this week so you can use the stock AMD backplate with our block. While our block has A+ performance with the current system, people really, really want to use the backplate, so here we are . If you're in the US and want them, we'll send them to you for free. International will need to cover shipping.


Hey Optimus, Thanks for the update. I am international (Canada) and would love to have them. I would need set for each block (so four in total). I'm in no rush and they could be put together with my upcoming order of your 12mm Hard Tube Fittings, Fan Mounted Reservoir and Even the 3080TI waterblock.


----------



## TK421

Section31 said:


> Hey Optimus, Thanks for the update. I am international (Canada) and would love to have them. I would need set for each block (so four in total). I'm in no rush and they could be put together with my upcoming order of your 12mm Hard Tube Fittings, Fan Mounted Reservoir and Even the 3080TI waterblock.


Do their reservoirs not mount to a fan?


----------



## farpetrad

Well I’m really unhappy. Tore everything down to change motherboards and noticed that the coating on the turbulence thing in my reservoir is losing its coating..... I run mayhems inhibitor+ and biocide+. Ph is 7.29 on the water I flushed and the new water is 7.09 tested with my Aquarium ph tester. I didn’t even notice when I tore down so am really pissed off right now that I refilled the loop.


Already talked with Optimus and they are going to fix it.


Heatkiller nickel block is fine and so is the Optimus cpu block.


----------



## SgtMcRuff

Going to try direct die cooling 3900x with AMD foundation block. Added some quick CNC holes 8.1mm x 2.1mm on foundation bracket so it should work with der8auer 3000 OC bracket as z height is a problem with out the heat spreader.


----------



## Section31

TK421 said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Optimus, Thanks for the update. I am international (Canada) and would love to have them. I would need set for each block (so four in total). I'm in no rush and they could be put together with my upcoming order of your 12mm Hard Tube Fittings, Fan Mounted Reservoir and Even the 3080TI waterblock.
> 
> 
> 
> Do their reservoirs not mount to a fan?
Click to expand...

Its because i need it to work with an d5 next lol. Unless someone can cut an big whole in the bottom so that the d5 next oled controller can mount.


----------



## TK421

Section31 said:


> Its because i need it to work with an d5 next lol. Unless someone can cut an big whole in the bottom so that the d5 next oled controller can mount.



how does it mount normally with a standard d5?


----------



## Section31

TK421 said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Its because i need it to work with an d5 next lol. Unless someone can cut an big whole in the bottom so that the d5 next oled controller can mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how does it mount normally with a standard d5?
Click to expand...

The main issue is the metal base. It prevents the oled pump controller to be installed. According to optimus, the base is needed to properly seal the pump. The pump mounting on d5 next is standard. 

Its the OLED controller unit which contains the power too which is the issue. Heatkiller was working on new d5 pump i could have used with similar functions but thats effected by the virus.


----------



## Section31

Also looks like we are seeing end of supply chain issues. I have been hearing from family and friends in asia, the restrictions are largely gone now (masks, limited restaurant seating, public facilities) and most business operations/factories are up and running. Airlines seeing drop in pp&e too so more room for normal computer hardware soon. However airlines will need government support, cathay airlines just got bailed out by HK government


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Fake news China's about to lock down again they're having another breakout.


----------



## blackzaru

Section31 said:


> Also looks like we are seeing end of supply chain issues. I have been hearing from family and friends in asia, the restrictions are largely gone now (masks, limited restaurant seating, public facilities) and most business operations/factories are up and running. Airlines seeing drop in pp&e too so more room for normal computer hardware soon. However airlines will need government support, cathay airlines just got bailed out by HK government





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Fake news China's about to lock down again they're having another breakout.


Before any of this goes further, may I invite both parties that it might be nice not to transform this thread into a covid-19/political debate? Just my 2 cents before anything boils up as it usually does online.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
You a little skittish new comer


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Fake news China's about to lock down again they're having another breakout.





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You a little skittish new comer /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


Happens. Good news is i think we are seeing prices coming down and computer supplies increasing. Great news for water cooling shipping into Canada and for upcoming releases of 4000 Series CPU, Motherhood, PSU and even upcoming big Navi/Nvidia 3000 series.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah 30 series gpu's I wish would release.
Would of been nice to see amd 4k come out but I went z490 so that replaces that idea.


----------



## Kashtan

I got a message from Rockitcool 
",
The 9th GEN direct to die frame will not work on the 10th GEN CPU.
The reason is.. the die is much thinner (9th gen – 0.8mm 10th Gen – 0.5mm)
We’re working hard to get the 10th Gen direct to die finished.
I estimate 2-3 more days.
Thank you".


----------



## masterskop

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we'll be making updated AMD mounting posts this week so you can use the stock AMD backplate with our block. While our block has A+ performance with the current system, people really, really want to use the backplate, so here we are . If you're in the US and want them, we'll send them to you for free. International will need to cover shipping.


Yes, please. I would like to try the newer posts. Do I need to PM you on my address? 

masterskop


----------



## ThrashZone

Kashtan said:


> I got a message from Rockitcool
> ",
> The 9th GEN direct to die frame will not work on the 10th GEN CPU.
> The reason is.. the die is much thinner (9th gen – 0.8mm 10th Gen – 0.5mm)
> We’re working hard to get the 10th Gen direct to die finished.
> I estimate 2-3 more days.
> Thank you".


Hi,
Nice drop us a message went it's available :thumb:


----------



## SgtMcRuff

Just throwing in some simple word of mouth results with direct die mounted foundation block on 3900x. The block is offset by 6.75mm using der8auer oc bracket so that center jet is right over both chiplets. Currently its a temp setup. Doing stress test of prime 95 with 32k size. Seeing about 15-20 watt more power draw at same time with 4c lower ccd temp over the ek velocity block that was on there. So netting about 50mhz in all core frequency over velocity.


----------



## blackzaru

SgtMcRuff said:


> Just throwing in some simple word of mouth results with direct die mounted foundation block on 3900x. The block is offset by 6.75mm using der8auer oc bracket so that center jet is right over both chiplets. Currently its a temp setup. Doing stress test of prime 95 with 32k size. Seeing about 15-20 watt more power draw at same time with 4c lower ccd temp over the ek velocity block that was on there. So netting about 50mhz in all core frequency over velocity.


Good to know, I received my Optimus foundation, but have yet to install it, and I'm currently on a EK Supremacy Evo. I was wondering, you have a Godlike like I do, did you have any try and mounting the block with the IHS on it? (and without the de8aer kit) A few people complained about difficulties with some Asus board. Kind of worried me for my Godlike, although it's a MSI. Thanks for any answer!


----------



## skupples

gpu blocks when?

just found out I'm having heart issues, swear to god if this block drops after I die...


----------



## SgtMcRuff

blackzaru said:


> Good to know, I received my Optimus foundation, but have yet to install it, and I'm currently on a EK Supremacy Evo. I was wondering, you have a Godlike like I do, did you have any try and mounting the block with the IHS on it? (and without the de8aer kit) A few people complained about difficulties with some Asus board. Kind of worried me for my Godlike, although it's a MSI. Thanks for any answer!


I already remove IHS by time I got Foundation block. I don't remember having any problems with ek mounting when 3900x had its IHS. Nothing stood out as a problem for me in terms of clearance. The holes distance is standard am4 distance 90mm x 54mm.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> gpu blocks when?
> 
> just found out I'm having heart issues, swear to god if this block drops after I die...


Hi,
It's usually shortly after delivery when people croak 
I won the lottery :wheee: boom dead


----------



## blackzaru

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> It's usually shortly after delivery when people croak
> I won the lottery :wheee: boom dead


No comment for 3 days? Clearly something died... That thread!


----------



## farpetrad

Just took apart the reservoir to change out the disruptor and yikes! Have only used mayhems inhibitor+ and biocide+.


----------



## tcclaviger

Holy mixed metal interaction batman!


----------



## skupples

LOL.... oy vey. 

hopefully that too came outta the supposed one bad batch of plating 


ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> It's usually shortly after delivery when people croak
> I won the lottery :wheee: boom dead


maybe.

unfortunately though, long term affects from whatever "COVID" really is ARE REAL. Everyone I know that had the same illness as me in February are now experiencing similar chest pains.


----------



## criskoe

skupples said:


> gpu blocks when?
> 
> just found out I'm having heart issues, swear to god if this block drops after I die...


Dam dude! Hope your able to work it out! 
@Optimus WC Just give this man one of the prototypes! Im sure it will have enough performance to satisfy him!


----------



## skupples

criskoe said:


> Dam dude! Hope your able to work it out!
> 
> @Optimus WC Just give this man one of the prototypes! Im sure it will have enough performance to satisfy him!


I appreciate it! 

too bad i'm too old for the Make a Wish foundation


----------



## farpetrad

skupples said:


> LOL.... oy vey.
> 
> hopefully that too came outta the supposed one bad batch of plating
> 
> 
> maybe.
> 
> unfortunately though, long term affects from whatever "COVID" really is ARE REAL. Everyone I know that had the same illness as me in February are now experiencing similar chest pains.



Yeah hopefully thats what it is. There is Copper (Optimus cpu block & radiators) and Ni (Heatkiller IV GPU block and the pictured disruptor and now its replacement) in the loop and thats it, all fitings are Bitspower or Bykski. No other components show any sign of break down, there was a tiny bit of crap in the filter but was so tiny I couldn't really get a good picture of it.

Oh dang! I think I had covid around Jan/Feb, being in Co we hit the ski resorts all the time and they are just full of international travelers. When I get sick I will typically work from home as I hate being down but whatever I had back then knocked me on my butt. I took 4 days off work fully, could hardly walk or breath, went to the dr did a flu test was negative and of course this was right as this was starting so they asked a bunch of questions but never did anything about it. ~2 weeks later I was finally back to feeling ok. I haven't had any lasting effects that I can tell other than a shortness of breath during exercise or hard activities. What did your dr say?


----------



## skupples

maybe they even outsourced it to someone else to get them done uber-cheep. who knows... I'd recommend PM'ing the guy. 

this is why I always go without plating wherever I can. seems its always just a matter of time.


----------



## farpetrad

Oh I did the second I saw it. They sent the replacement hence the breakdown today. Sending it back to them so they can check it out but just looking at it the corrosion pattern seems very odd.


----------



## skupples

how so?

looks like it ate from the letters first, which makes sense since the edges would be the thinnest.

glad they took care of it


----------



## farpetrad

Just that if it ate from the letters I wouldn’t of expected the top back and bottom to have gone as well. 2nd picture can see where he asked me to scratch it and the nickel didn’t really come off just whatever the heck is on it.


----------



## skupples

edges edges everywhere.

it gets under from the edge, and its all over from there.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

damn wth make it to do that.. now im wondering how my block is doing.... i have a big loop like BIG BIG loop lol almost a gallon of liquid on it between pc and the outside equipment between the Phobya 1260 + MoRa 3 + Chiller


----------



## farpetrad

zGunBLADEz said:


> damn wth make it to do that.. now im wondering how my block is doing.... i have a big loop like BIG BIG loop lol almost a gallon of liquid on it between pc and the outside equipment between the Phobya 1260 + MoRa 3 + Chiller


Hoping it was just a bad coating and the new one is fine. I can see in the block and its fine and took the GPU out to have a good look and saw no issues either when I took the reservoir apart. Mixed up a new batch of distilled with biocide+ and inhibitor+ and checked the ph and was at 7.09 so it better not happen again.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

farpetrad said:


> Hoping it was just a bad coating and the new one is fine. I can see in the block and its fine and took the GPU out to have a good look and saw no issues either when I took the reservoir apart. Mixed up a new batch of distilled with biocide+ and inhibitor+ and checked the ph and was at 7.09 so it better not happen again.


i just use distilled water and silver killcoils thats it 0 problems so far...
i cant see the block its a pita to dismantle my system. i have a few small upgrades like "rgb" fans for the mora and water sensors etc.... and im procrastinating lol.... i can look the gpu side the block (swiftech one) and see if i get some grow in there or outside reservoirs lol


----------



## loginwong

Will the FOUNDATION CPU BLOCK with ACRYLIC top get argb soon?


----------



## TK421

loginwong said:


> Will the FOUNDATION CPU BLOCK with ACRYLIC top get argb soon?


----------



## blackzaru

loginwong said:


> Will the FOUNDATION CPU BLOCK with ACRYLIC top get argb soon?


This would go against their design philosophy.


----------



## skupples

loginwong said:


> Will the FOUNDATION CPU BLOCK with ACRYLIC top get argb soon?


short answer - no

long answer - maybe, some time later, when they have time for frivolous nonsense.

it would be quite easy to 3D print something. I bet the guy who did it here would even sell you one of his prints


----------



## tcclaviger

39 days from order to delivery, yay COVID!

Testing results will be back in a couple of days of actually c/w so it can be compared apples to apples for other blocks/configurations.

I bought an AC for my office finally lol, man does Ryzen like 20c water temps!! Chiller will be coming soon, look forward to some benching with the foundation and 5c water haha!


----------



## FastEddieNYC

tcclaviger said:


> 39 days from order to delivery, yay COVID!


It appears that they are catching up on the backlog. I ordered on June 8th and it will be here on Tuesday. Hopefully it has the new mounting posts so I can use the stock back plate without modding anything.


----------



## blackzaru

Just waiting on my gpu waterblock, and I'll be able to finally complete my build. Really like the look of the am4 foundation block so far.


----------



## rcasey02

FastEddieNYC said:


> tcclaviger said:
> 
> 
> 
> 39 days from order to delivery, yay COVID!
> 
> 
> 
> It appears that they are catching up on the backlog. I ordered on June 8th and it will be here on Tuesday. Hopefully it has the new mounting posts so I can use the stock back plate without modding anything.
Click to expand...

I hope so, just ordered me a cpu block for my 3900x and have no patience lol


----------



## skupples

blackzaru said:


> Just waiting on my gpu waterblock, and I'll be able to finally complete my build. Really like the look of the am4 foundation block so far.


some day, just some day after my heart fails, and AMD/NV have better products out.


----------



## le-coq

Would this be possible due to the integrity of other parts in your system? As a n00b, I'm not sure about the purity of metals and hoses in other products, which I've also ordered as I can't do everything Optimus (they don't have radiators, a GPU block, hoses, etc.) My radiators, from Heatkiller, say they are made from "pure electrolytic copper", so I'm hoping there aren't pollutants in the copper. I'm going to use EK's EPDM. I tried to find OEM brands from major hose manufacturers but didn't try hard enough.

I've heard great things about Mayhem's - and bad things, including people not having their items warrantied when using Mayhem's. So, I will try to find the best quality distilled water and start with no additives.


----------



## skupples

EK's rubber hose stains black, and slowly builds up in micro channels, FYI. Just gotta use it long enough for it to happen. i've had it happen with norp, and neo.

& he stated everything else in the block is high quality.


----------



## tcclaviger

Initial testing is in. I am using a K-Type thermo-couple to track water temperature, CPU Tdie peak observed and PPT limits to control power consumed by the CPU. As a result, I have a clear, consistent, and repeatable pattern emerging compared to the Bitspower Monoblock I was using previously. 

I have yet to do the high power testing (250 watts) to see just how far the improvement scales.

Test Setup:
Asus Crosshair X470
3900x
Dual D5 pumps at 100% (EK series Revo dual)
AMPROBE AM-520 + 0.1c accurate thermal probe in reservoir

Results:
It's a mixed bag, and this will only really pertain to 2 CCD chips (3900x, 3900xt, 3950x) due to power density differences between single CCD and dual CCD. I will have a 3600xt to test when they're released.

TLDR: The more power you put to the chip the more the Optimus pulls ahead. At 160 watts the Optimus starts to take the lead and it gains ground as power draw rises.

Recommendation: If you're unwilling/can't lap your block from any other manufacturer (all of them are convex to varying degrees) and you are going to use a setup that will pull more than 140 watts (very easy to do on a 3900x, 3900xt, or 3950x), use the Foundation without question. It is a very nicely made block, very simple, and functions very well. While a little pricey, it matched / exceeded a modified block that already performed very well. With enough radiator space and cool temperatures, it allows me to keep my 3900x boosting to absurd levels, see attachments below. As you can see by the single core performance it IS sustaining very high boost speeds, not simply over reporting as most people have experienced (scores are from 24/7 settings, auto voltage w/LLC 2, tdc 95 ppt 142 edc 140, scalar 8x, auto OC 200, 103.8bclk).


More Details:

I cannot stress enough how much you should not compare any of the stock convex blocks to a lapped block and expect equal performance. My Bitspower block is lapped dead flat, and finished in 6000 grit then polished with copper polish and was rinsed clean. It was as close to a copper mirror as you can get by hand. If your block has a curve, the Optimus is going to perform better than a stock curved cold plate (almost every company delivers their blocks with far too much curvature), even at lower power levels. 

My theory on the lower power performance of the bitspower is very simple... mass. The bitspower monoblock has about 10x the copper mass of the Foundation, and the lower power levels are showing the advantage of that extra mass, whereas the higher power levels are exceeding the ability of the fin design of the bitspower to conduct heat away quickly enough which extra mass cannot make up for.

Additional caveat: The bitspower cools the VRMs, the Foundation does not, not a big deal for safety, but it will impact testing. The VRMs were getting quite a bit warmer with the Foundation, meaning, at higher power loads more VRM heat is influencing the socket, so the Optimus is at a disadvantage there. I will follow up with separate VRM waterblocks + Optimus Foundation soon. I expect the results to be similar, and the Optimus may intrude further into the lower power performance areas, taking the lead in the 160 and 140 watt areas, while widening the gap above 160 watts even further.

Sometimes Optimus is better, sometimes Bitspower is better. Neither is the greatest flow restriction in my loop and thus, flow rates did not change between using the two different blocks using Dual D5s at full power (0.55 gpm for both). The Bitspower was lapped flat and as a result has no nickle plating on the cold plate, a stock Bitspower monoblock will perform nowhere near as well due to unreasonable curvature of the cold plate, but it also means its copper to copper cold plate comparison using conductonaut applied to both the chip and the cold plate before assembly. 

// SEE BELOW //

A note on mounting system: There is nothing wrong with the mounting system of the Optimus, those whingeing are being ridiculous. It would be a nice feature to throw in 12 nylon washers, to put on either side of the motherboard, and then under the thumb screw to smooth tightening it down and not have metal to metal contact, but that's a "nice to have" not a need. You do NOT need to crank down on the thumb screws to get a good seat, in fact, if you tighten too far you will bow the board and result in less than ideal pressure distribution on the CPU.

// SEE BELOW //

The provided studs thread into my stock (Asus) backplate and it can definitely be used to provide support for the board. EDIT: Just saw a few pages back they said they were providing different studs for backplate use, I seem to have received the revised mounting solution.

One last caveat, different applications load the 3 dies differently. Unlike monolithic die CPUs, the Dual CCD Zen2 presents a much more diverse type of heat load based on type of work done. For example, Aida 64 FPU vs p95 vs Sandra multimedia tests, which all pull the same amount of power (limited to PPT set point) all create distinct heating patterns despite all being AVX 2 workloads Surely it's due to differing L3 cache workloads and IO between CCDs and IO die and out to memory in different ways. There's as much as 15c delta between the different apps at the same indicated PPT load!

Just make sure your measuring apples to apples when you compare, using the same application in the same way with the same background tasks each time.

@Optimus WC


----------



## vexingdawn

Starting to get irritated seeing people who ordered after me receiving their blocks (I ordered June 3rd) and getting no response besides a one-line "hang in there, we are experiencing greater delays. thanks for waiting" response from Optimus about my ETA. This is the LAST PIECE I need for my loop and when I ordered there was no indication on the website (I should've read oc.net to get the real scoop) that there were month-long ++ delays in manufacturing, just a small message about how Covid-19 was adding small delays to actual shipping time. When I ordered I was under the impression my block would actually be manufactured and I would just be waiting for a shipping delay cross country due to Covid-19. I mean ****, my aquacomputer order from GERMANY has now arrived. 

I am just pissed off that people who have ordered AFTER me are receiving their blocks and I cannot get any support/ETA/information or any idea about when mine will come and that I have EVERYTHING for my build but this damn block. So enraged that people who ordered after for the same block received prior that I finally reg'd on oc.net to vent and maybe get some attention of the Optimus rep that posts here.

Sorry all for the *****ing, just in a piss poor mood about this - I know it'll be worth it once it arrives but DAMN waiting for it is starting to get agitating.


----------



## Optimus WC

tcclaviger said:


> Initial testing is in. I am using a K-Type thermo-couple to track water temperature, CPU Tdie peak observed and PPT limits to control power consumed by the CPU. As a result, I have a clear, consistent, and repeatable pattern emerging compared to the Bitspower Monoblock I was using previously.
> 
> I have yet to do the high power testing (250 watts) to see just how far the improvement scales.
> 
> Test Setup:
> Asus Crosshair X470
> 3900x
> Dual D5 pumps at 100% (EK series Revo dual)
> AMPROBE AM-520 + 0.1c accurate thermal probe in reservoir
> 
> Results:
> It's a mixed bag, and this will only really pertain to 2 CCD chips (3900x, 3900xt, 3950x) due to power density differences between single CCD and dual CCD. I will have a 3600xt to test when they're released.
> 
> TLDR: The more power you put to the chip the more the Optimus pulls ahead. At 160 watts the Optimus starts to take the lead and it gains ground as power draw rises.
> 
> Recommendation: If you're unwilling/can't lap your block from any other manufacturer (all of them are convex to varying degrees) and you are going to use a setup that will pull more than 140 watts (very easy to do on a 3900x, 3900xt, or 3950x), use the Foundation without question. It is a very nicely made block, very simple, and functions very well. While a little pricey, it matched / exceeded a modified block that already performed very well. With enough radiator space and cool temperatures, it allows me to keep my 3900x boosting to absurd levels, see attachments below. As you can see by the single core performance it IS sustaining very high boost speeds, not simply over reporting as most people have experienced (scores are from 24/7 settings, auto voltage w/LLC 2, tdc 95 ppt 142 edc 140, scalar 8x, auto OC 200, 103.8bclk).
> 
> 
> More Details:
> 
> I cannot stress enough how much you should not compare any of the stock convex blocks to a lapped block and expect equal performance. My Bitspower block is lapped dead flat, and finished in 6000 grit then polished with copper polish and was rinsed clean. It was as close to a copper mirror as you can get by hand. If your block has a curve, the Optimus is going to perform better than a stock curved cold plate (almost every company delivers their blocks with far too much curvature), even at lower power levels.
> 
> My theory on the lower power performance of the bitspower is very simple... mass. The bitspower monoblock has about 10x the copper mass of the Foundation, and the lower power levels are showing the advantage of that extra mass, whereas the higher power levels are exceeding the ability of the fin design of the bitspower to conduct heat away quickly enough which extra mass cannot make up for.
> 
> Additional caveat: The bitspower cools the VRMs, the Foundation does not, not a big deal for safety, but it will impact testing. The VRMs were getting quite a bit warmer with the Foundation, meaning, at higher power loads more VRM heat is influencing the socket, so the Optimus is at a disadvantage there. I will follow up with separate VRM waterblocks + Optimus Foundation soon. I expect the results to be similar, and the Optimus may intrude further into the lower power performance areas, taking the lead in the 160 and 140 watt areas, while widening the gap above 160 watts even further.
> 
> Sometimes Optimus is better, sometimes Bitspower is better. Neither is the greatest flow restriction in my loop and thus, flow rates did not change between using the two different blocks using Dual D5s at full power (0.55 gpm for both). The Bitspower was lapped flat and as a result has no nickle plating on the cold plate, a stock Bitspower monoblock will perform nowhere near as well due to unreasonable curvature of the cold plate, but it also means its copper to copper cold plate comparison using conductonaut applied to both the chip and the cold plate before assembly.
> 
> // SEE BELOW //
> 
> A note on mounting system: There is nothing wrong with the mounting system of the Optimus, those whingeing are being ridiculous. It would be a nice feature to throw in 12 nylon washers, to put on either side of the motherboard, and then under the thumb screw to smooth tightening it down and not have metal to metal contact, but that's a "nice to have" not a need. You do NOT need to crank down on the thumb screws to get a good seat, in fact, if you tighten too far you will bow the board and result in less than ideal pressure distribution on the CPU.
> 
> // SEE BELOW //
> 
> The provided studs thread into my stock (Asus) backplate and it can definitely be used to provide support for the board. EDIT: Just saw a few pages back they said they were providing different studs for backplate use, I seem to have received the revised mounting solution.
> 
> One last caveat, different applications load the 3 dies differently. Unlike monolithic die CPUs, the Dual CCD Zen2 presents a much more diverse type of heat load based on type of work done. For example, Aida 64 FPU vs p95 vs Sandra multimedia tests, which all pull the same amount of power (limited to PPT set point) all create distinct heating patterns despite all being AVX 2 workloads Surely it's due to differing L3 cache workloads and IO between CCDs and IO die and out to memory in different ways. There's as much as 15c delta between the different apps at the same indicated PPT load!
> 
> Just make sure your measuring apples to apples when you compare, using the same application in the same way with the same background tasks each time.
> 
> @Optimus WC


Hey there, good testing!

A couple of thoughts depending on how you're testing:
-You can remove the center o-ring to make the optimus block flatter. 
-So if your CPU IHS is lapped, removing the o-ring should help.
-If your IHS and other block are both lapped, then that's the best contact for sure, thus the results. 
-And we do recommend tightening the posts as far as you can go by hand. Any sort of bend with the backplate isn't a big deal at all. More pressure is absolutely better and 100% measurable. It may not seem like it, but our blocks are special 
-We are basically able to "brute force" excellent performance if there isn't good contact. Once there is, there should be no contest.
-As for mass, our testing shows less mass = better. Having thick cold plates is actually far worse. Holding on the heat isn't a good thing, we want the heat to get to the fins as fast as possible.
-Yes, sounds like you got the revised mounting!


----------



## skupples

3080 is less than a month away, what's the dealioooooo (dropping at GDC in august)


----------



## Optimus WC

vexingdawn said:


> Starting to get irritated seeing people who ordered after me receiving their blocks (I ordered June 3rd) and getting no response besides a one-line "hang in there, we are experiencing greater delays. thanks for waiting" response from Optimus about my ETA. This is the LAST PIECE I need for my loop and when I ordered there was no indication on the website (I should've read oc.net to get the real scoop) that there were month-long ++ delays in manufacturing, just a small message about how Covid-19 was adding small delays to actual shipping time. When I ordered I was under the impression my block would actually be manufactured and I would just be waiting for a shipping delay cross country due to Covid-19. I mean ****, my aquacomputer order from GERMANY has now arrived.
> 
> I am just pissed off that people who have ordered AFTER me are receiving their blocks and I cannot get any support/ETA/information or any idea about when mine will come and that I have EVERYTHING for my build but this damn block. So enraged that people who ordered after for the same block received prior that I finally reg'd on oc.net to vent and maybe get some attention of the Optimus rep that posts here.
> 
> Sorry all for the *****ing, just in a piss poor mood about this - I know it'll be worth it once it arrives but DAMN waiting for it is starting to get agitating.


Hey there, yeah that shouldn't be happening. Chances are what you ordered have parts that are being made and take longer vs other people who ordered items that are ready to go. Nickel cold plates take longer due to an extra nickel plating process. AMD has been a beast with orders. Intel is in stock, reservoirs are taking longer but getting caught up. Not the best answer, but that's where we're at. DM me your order number info and I'll check to see what's going on.


----------



## hahler2

Looking to purchase a new CPU block for an Intel processor. Is there a big performance difference between the foundation and the signature V2 blocks? Just wondering if the V2 is really worth the extra premium.


----------



## tcclaviger

@Optimus WC

Thanks for the input, I'll put it to use when I remount tomorrow for round 2, this time using the backplate. 

One tell-tale sign your block is performing better overall:

After a heavy load ends, the temps fall much quicker back to idle temps. The old block would slowly drop 3-4 c a second until leveled back at idle temp, the Foundation crashes back down to idle very quickly. 

It kind of confirms what you're saying about mass. I agree, less mass is a good thing, I am just struggling to make sense of the somewhat odd results I saw, hopefully a remount intrudes more on the lower power section (though, do I really care about low power temps...NOPE).

I am glad I waited and didn't cancel the order, the Foundation is good, very good and I now totally believe the claims of 5c, or 7c temp drops vs what people were using before. With a non Liquid Metal TIM, maybe not a great mount, or a not great cold-plate to IHS geometry a big change is absolutely believable.

Pairing the Foundation + 20c ambients has allowed me to intrude on LN2 3900x benchmark results... beating some LN2 scores in some cases.

PS: If you make a metal top (copper please) for the AMD blocks... i'll buy it... just saying...


----------



## MakubeX

vexingdawn said:


> Starting to get irritated seeing people who ordered after me receiving their blocks (I ordered June 3rd) and getting no response besides a one-line "hang in there, we are experiencing greater delays. thanks for waiting" response from Optimus about my ETA. This is the LAST PIECE I need for my loop and when I ordered there was no indication on the website (I should've read oc.net to get the real scoop) that there were month-long ++ delays in manufacturing, just a small message about how Covid-19 was adding small delays to actual shipping time. When I ordered I was under the impression my block would actually be manufactured and I would just be waiting for a shipping delay cross country due to Covid-19. I mean ****, my aquacomputer order from GERMANY has now arrived.
> 
> 
> 
> I am just pissed off that people who have ordered AFTER me are receiving their blocks and I cannot get any support/ETA/information or any idea about when mine will come and that I have EVERYTHING for my build but this damn block. So enraged that people who ordered after for the same block received prior that I finally reg'd on oc.net to vent and maybe get some attention of the Optimus rep that posts here.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry all for the *****ing, just in a piss poor mood about this - I know it'll be worth it once it arrives but DAMN waiting for it is starting to get agitating.


If it makes you feel any better, I ordered mine on June 2 and I haven't received mine either. Status still shows as "Unfulfilled". I requested a status update yesterday morning using their contact form but I'm still waiting on a response.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> 3080 is less than a month away, what's the dealioooooo (dropping at GDC in august)


Hi,
Doubtful 
I'm sure there will be a long delay on 30 series be lucky to see before Christmas frankly.


----------



## tcclaviger

Time for round 2 of testing.

No Oring, with backplate, as tight as my fingers can get it.

Still running tests, but, backplate and no Oring is killing first round of tests....

(Ran out of solder, please ignore my very temporary ghetto flow meter cable fix lol).
....


----------



## garyd9

tcclaviger said:


> (Ran out of solder, please ignore my very temporary ghetto flow meter cable fix lol).
> ....


Is that blue painters tape holding wires together? If so, I'm surprised it's working at all. That stuff usually doesn't stick to wires at all for me.


----------



## skupples

tcclaviger said:


> Time for round 2 of testing.
> 
> No Oring, with backplate, as tight as my fingers can get it.
> 
> Still running tests, but, backplate and no Oring is killing first round of tests....
> 
> (Ran out of solder, please ignore my very temporary ghetto flow meter cable fix lol).
> ....



for the aquacomputer flow sensor, i'm guessing its the old one with the LARGE 3 pin?


Hot Glue is your friend.


----------



## tcclaviger

The wires actually broke at the pin connector, I was able to get it working again but for the life of me can't believe I ran out of Solder (probably hiding in plain sight somewhere).

Tests complete, it is ...uh, shocking how much of a difference the different mounting method and lack of O-ring changed things. Flow rate unchanged due to O-ring, again, the Kyrographics Next GPU block is my flow choke point so the CPU block has no impact on my setup's flow.

New recommendation:

*Optimus Foundation, in all scenarios, using no O-ring, backplate, and tight. When I say tight, I do lift, I have strong hands, I did not go full-cave man and rage them down, but quite tight on them (to the point it hurts your skin from the texture cutting into it).*


I ran all power levels 4 or 5 times this time, because I was surprised by the significant change from the 1st tests, and they're totally repeatable, to within +/- 0.1c delta temps. 

You can clearly see the point at which the X370C6E block starts being overwhelmed by the heat load, at 200 watts it's not really performing well anymore. The only anomaly I can locate is ~200 watts with the Foundation. Somehow, it gains a lot of efficiency after 180 watts. I cannot explain this, it could be an unaccounted for variable, it could be their design, it could be the chip somehow emitting heat differently when slamming against the FIT limit instead of a PPT limit, I don't know. I changed the PBO settings a bit and managed to get it to tag an even 200 watts, hitting PPT limit, this did in fact, change the high power outcome, getting the anomaly fall in line with expectation, more confident the 200 watt numbers are accurate now.

The change column is heat transfer efficiency percentage vs the X370C6E, not temperature reduction percent (because that's not a real thing, see Gamers Nexus rant on this subject, tech Jesus explains it well).


To put this in some real numbers, at 140 watts, the stock limit levels, peak temps during the test are 60.8c tdie, but it averages 2 or so c below that. Holding under 60c, on a 100% loaded 3900x, is incredible imho.

The charts below, if you are unaware of using c/w, work like this:

C/W * watts = rise over ambient

example

.253 * 200 = 50.6c rise, so 25c ambient + 50.6c = 75.6 tdie temps at 200 watts.


----------



## shotround

tcclaviger said:


> The wires actually broke at the pin connector, I was able to get it working again but for the life of me can't believe I ran out of Solder (probably hiding in plain sight somewhere).



i used the last of my radio shack spool last year......


----------



## tcclaviger

shotround said:


> tcclaviger said:
> 
> 
> 
> The wires actually broke at the pin connector, I was able to get it working again but for the life of me can't believe I ran out of Solder (probably hiding in plain sight somewhere).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i used the last of my radio shack spool last year......
Click to expand...

RIP nerd heaven....RIP


----------



## Keith Myers

tcclaviger said:


> RIP nerd heaven....RIP


My favorite RS solder is still available via RS store on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NK59QRY/ref=dp_cerb_1


----------



## garyd9

Keith Myers said:


> My favorite RS solder is still available via RS store on Amazon.
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NK59QRY/ref=dp_cerb_1


I prefer lead based solder for most things...


----------



## Keith Myers

garyd9 said:


> I prefer lead based solder for most things...


That solder _IS_ lead based. Just has some silver in it for greater structural strength and a bit better conductivity.


----------



## Hequaqua

New mounting for AM4 got here today....Woot!


----------



## KedarWolf

Hequaqua said:


> New mounting for AM4 got here today....Woot!
> 
> View attachment 359050


Does that use the stock backplate?

I'm confused how it actually works.


----------



## Hequaqua

KedarWolf said:


> Does that use the stock backplate?
> 
> I'm confused how it actually works.


Yep.....glad they did this. I think it will feel better...and relieve some of the strain on the motherboard.


----------



## Keith Myers

Hequaqua said:


> Yep.....glad they did this. I think it will feel better...and relieve some of the strain on the motherboard.
> 
> View attachment 359052


So how did you go about getting this? Automatically or by request?


----------



## Hequaqua

Keith Myers said:


> So how did you go about getting this? Automatically or by request?


I sent a email to support with my order number and shipping info as well as a permalink to the post about them making them. 

Here is the permalink I included:

https://www.overclock.net/forum/28509374-post3801.html

I also messaged them on here with the same information. 

The message here said to submit a email to their support dept. 

That was it.


----------



## TK421

tcclaviger said:


> The wires actually broke at the pin connector, I was able to get it working again but for the life of me can't believe I ran out of Solder (probably hiding in plain sight somewhere).
> 
> Tests complete, it is ...uh, shocking how much of a difference the different mounting method and lack of O-ring changed things. Flow rate unchanged due to O-ring, again, the Kyrographics Next GPU block is my flow choke point so the CPU block has no impact on my setup's flow.
> 
> New recommendation:
> 
> *Optimus Foundation, in all scenarios, using no O-ring, backplate, and tight. When I say tight, I do lift, I have strong hands, I did not go full-cave man and rage them down, but quite tight on them (to the point it hurts your skin from the texture cutting into it).*
> 
> 
> I ran all power levels 4 or 5 times this time, because I was surprised by the significant change from the 1st tests, and they're totally repeatable, to within +/- 0.1c delta temps.
> 
> You can clearly see the point at which the X370C6E block starts being overwhelmed by the heat load, at 200 watts it's not really performing well anymore. The only anomaly I can locate is ~200 watts with the Foundation. Somehow, it gains a lot of efficiency after 180 watts. I cannot explain this, it could be an unaccounted for variable, it could be their design, it could be the chip somehow emitting heat differently when slamming against the FIT limit instead of a PPT limit, I don't know. I changed the PBO settings a bit and managed to get it to tag an even 200 watts, hitting PPT limit, this did in fact, change the high power outcome, getting the anomaly fall in line with expectation, more confident the 200 watt numbers are accurate now.
> 
> The change column is heat transfer efficiency percentage vs the X370C6E, not temperature reduction percent (because that's not a real thing, see Gamers Nexus rant on this subject, tech Jesus explains it well).
> 
> 
> To put this in some real numbers, at 140 watts, the stock limit levels, peak temps during the test are 60.8c tdie, but it averages 2 or so c below that. Holding under 60c, on a 100% loaded 3900x, is incredible imho.
> 
> The charts below, if you are unaware of using c/w, work like this:
> 
> C/W * watts = rise over ambient
> 
> example
> 
> .253 * 200 = 50.6c rise, so 25c ambient + 50.6c = 75.6 tdie temps at 200 watts.



so it's much better to just remove the center flow o-ring?




trashzone said to sand down the pressure marks from the microfins instead of removing


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys:

AMD POSTS: Yes, just email us at [email protected] or use our web form, include your name and address and we'll send them out. Nothing too complicated 

O-RINGS: Yes, removing the center o-ring can have benefits depending on how wonky your CPU IHS is. DO NOT SAND the o-ring or the block cold plate. There is really no need, that was just so-and-so messing around lol  The o-ring is really a vestigial organ, like an appendix, so it can be removed.


----------



## MakubeX

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys:
> 
> AMD POSTS: Yes, just email us at [email protected] or use our web form, include your name and address and we'll send them out. Nothing too complicated
> 
> O-RINGS: Yes, removing the center o-ring can have benefits depending on how wonky your CPU IHS is. DO NOT SAND the o-ring or the block cold plate. There is really no need, that was just so-and-so messing around lol  The o-ring is really a vestigial organ, like an appendix, so it can be removed.


How about those of us still waiting on an AMD block? Will those blocks automatically include the new mounting hardware?


----------



## Optimus WC

MakubeX said:


> How about those of us still waiting on an AMD block? Will those blocks automatically include the new mounting hardware?


Absolutely!

Also, worth pointing out for the hard core here, backplates will bend anyway. The performance between the old system and the backplate system is nil. If it makes people happy to have the backplate, we'll support it. But again the backplate bends, as do almost everyone's backplates when applying the correct force, thus the PCB will also bend. Not a big deal either way, we've never heard of an issue (unlike GPUs). Really, AMD AM4 socket is hot garbage, and will hopefully change from the PGA to LGA style (pins on mobo, not cpu) for the next gen.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Absolutely!
> 
> Also, worth pointing out for the hard core here, backplates will bend anyway. The performance between the old system and the backplate system is nil. If it makes people happy to have the backplate, we'll support it. But again the backplate bends, as do almost everyone's backplates when applying the correct force, thus the PCB will also bend. Not a big deal either way, we've never heard of an issue (unlike GPUs). Really, AMD AM4 socket is hot garbage, and will hopefully change from the PGA to LGA style (pins on mobo, not cpu) for the next gen.


Any update on the fittings (12mm) and new reservoir mounting.


----------



## garyd9

Optimus WC said:


> Really, AMD AM4 socket is hot garbage, and will hopefully change from the PGA to LGA style (pins on mobo, not cpu) for the next gen.


I've been reading this thread for a couple weeks while trying to talk my CFO (wife) into letting me spend another $120USD for another CPU block, and I've noticed a pattern: You have one of the best water blocks for a processor/socket that you really hate.

Based on that, I hope that they don't improve it. If they did, your performance might decrease. (On the other hand, if they improve the socket, perhaps this EK thing I have would work better... and maybe the nickel wouldn't flake off.)


----------



## skupples

AMD's insistence on clinging to PGA irritates pretty much everyone, and the issue only compounds as the chips get bigger. the hate is legit.


what's the reason for it again?


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> Any update on the fittings (12mm) and new reservoir mounting.


12mm and 14mm are ready! All colors are in stock, we'll have ordering up tonight. 16mm is almost done, we're making a slight tweak to make install easier. 



garyd9 said:


> I've been reading this thread for a couple weeks while trying to talk my CFO (wife) into letting me spend another $120USD for another CPU block, and I've noticed a pattern: You have one of the best water blocks for a processor/socket that you really hate.
> 
> Based on that, I hope that they don't improve it. If they did, your performance might decrease. (On the other hand, if they improve the socket, perhaps this EK thing I have would work better... and maybe the nickel wouldn't flake off.)


Haha, yeah the wife is in control, I hear that. 

There are multiple reasons why the socket is bad: pins pull out of the CPU waaay too easily, the little lever system doesn't always work right, etc. The Threadripper socket is better, though that still has issues. Really, LGA 20xx is the best out there, in terms of just reliability and performance. But that's to be expected, Intel has had years. 

For performance, an AM5 socket wouldn't matter much at all. The performance is all about the contact of the CPU to the cold plate and the corresponding surface area. What we have seen change over generations is the shape of the IHS and the die layout of the chiplets underneath. We've done lots of little tricks to make sure our blocks work the best across the widest range of situations. Who knows what the future holds, maybe AMD will sell bare die CPUs 



skupples said:


> AMD's insistence on clinging to PGA irritates pretty much everyone, and the issue only compounds as the chips get bigger. the hate is legit.
> 
> 
> what's the reason for it again?


So the rumor is AMD put the pins on the CPU to get motherboard manufacturer support. The pins are the common breaking point. Intel can force mobo manufacturers to replace boards. AMD is taking a bath on bad CPU returns to get ASUS etc. to support. 

Of course, I have no inside knowledge, but this speculation sounds at least logical. Or did back in the day. Now Threadripper and modern designs are more durable. If AMD wanted to do customers a solid, they'd adopt the Intel mounting pattern and be done with it.


----------



## garyd9

skupples said:


> AMD's insistence on clinging to PGA irritates pretty much everyone, and the issue only compounds as the chips get bigger. the hate is legit.
> 
> 
> what's the reason for it again?


These days, because they are committed to AM4. when AM4 was new? Here's the only reference I could find: https://youtu.be/HWSXlwDwULY?t=103


----------



## Mxj1

tcclaviger said:


> The wires actually broke at the pin connector, I was able to get it working again but for the life of me can't believe I ran out of Solder (probably hiding in plain sight somewhere).


After to fix it, put a piece of heat shrink over there connector/wire. It'll provide some structural support and cover the white connector.


----------



## Hequaqua

HELP!!!

Got the block re-installed...but can't boot into Windows. 

I can get into the bios....everything looks normal. I proceed, and get my logon logo with the spinning wheel...then my monitor just shuts off....computer keeps running. 

I can boot into Safe Mode with networking....because here I am. (Windows does see my RTX2070 in device manager)

Strange....I flipped my bios switch on my board...same thing. I also ran sfc /scannow....no errors.

Any clues without having to try and refresh Windows?

EDIT: Not sure what happened....needless to say....fresh install of Windows....


----------



## poah

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys:
> 
> The o-ring is really a vestigial organ, like an appendix, so it can be removed.


That is actually wrong. The appendix plays an important role in the immune system.


----------



## zervun

Hequaqua said:


> HELP!!!
> 
> Got the block re-installed...but can't boot into Windows.
> 
> I can get into the bios....everything looks normal. I proceed, and get my logon logo with the spinning wheel...then my monitor just shuts off....computer keeps running.
> 
> I can boot into Safe Mode with networking....because here I am. (Windows does see my RTX2070 in device manager)
> 
> Strange....I flipped my bios switch on my board...same thing. I also ran sfc /scannow....no errors.
> 
> Any clues without having to try and refresh Windows?
> 
> EDIT: Not sure what happened....needless to say....fresh install of Windows....


Can try https://neosmart.net/EasyRE/

Maybe an update gone bad? Doubt it is removing/reinstalling the block/Cpu


----------



## MakubeX

poah said:


> That is actually wrong. The appendix plays an important role in the immune system.


A an important role

FTFY


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC did you make my dual pump yet? What's taking you so long..


----------



## Hequaqua

zervun said:


> Can try https://neosmart.net/EasyRE/
> 
> Maybe an update gone bad? Doubt it is removing/reinstalling the block/Cpu


Well.....remounted the block this morning(changed paste).....same issue again. 

Did another install of Windows(nvme)....very strange behavior.....it would get to the "were are setting things up".....then the "almost there"....and my monitors would shut off. 

Did yet another fresh install(SSD)......and it did the same thing. I was lost. So I move my gpu to the 8x slot....booted right into Windows. Installed a few things(Windows Update/HWiNFO/GPU driver). Restarted right into Windows. Shut down, moved the gpu back to the 16x slot....no go. Moved it again to the 8x...back up and running. 

Guess I'll reach out to Gigabyte and hope for the best. Maybe they'll offer me some money to keep the board....lol MSI did on my X370 that I sent in on a RMA....lol

Gonna install a few things, and see how it goes. 

Thanks for the info on that though. I'll look at it when I get a chance. :thumb:


----------



## cluster edge

Did you try to reset bios?


----------



## Hequaqua

cluster edge said:


> Did you try to reset bios?


Yes, many many times. I even tried on the back-up bios.(board has dual)

Everything was running great....restarted a bit ago...got a BSOD...telling me the something wasn't attached(all drives,etc, were showing up in the bios) to let me boot into Windows. I'm not sure what is going on at this point. 

I put a ticket in with Gigabyte, see what they have to say. 

I've never had issues like this....baffled at this point. Once again....clean install of Windows and start setting things up and see what happens I guess. :wheee:


----------



## garyd9

Hequaqua said:


> I've never had issues like this....baffled at this point. Once again....clean install of Windows and start setting things up and see what happens I guess. :wheee:


If the ONLY thing changed was changing the waterblock... That implies changing tubing, which offers the potential for a bit of water to drip. There's also some static discharge risk. Have you tried to physically remove the battery for the BIOS, leave it out for a minute or two, and then pop it back in?

From your comments, I see that you've already re-seated the video card (which would have been my first suggestion.) Check the extra 12VDC cables from the PSU to the video card?


----------



## Hequaqua

garyd9 said:


> If the ONLY thing changed was changing the waterblock... That implies changing tubing, which offers the potential for a bit of water to drip. There's also some static discharge risk. Have you tried to physically remove the battery for the BIOS, leave it out for a minute or two, and then pop it back in?
> 
> From your comments, I see that you've already re-seated the video card (which would have been my first suggestion.) Check the extra 12VDC cables from the PSU to the video card?


No...no water drip. Block was never removed, just the mounting system. Yes, took the battery out for several minutes, checked all the psu cabling(all cabling actually). 

Right now....I'm back on the desktop, using the 8x pcie slot. Just some weird things going on. Right now....running great. I'm back on the nvme as my boot drive.

Another odd issue......after I reinstalled Windows...I couldn't see part of a partition on my HD(Firecuda). I was able to go into disk management and change the drive path, so that's back to normal now. 

We'll see how it goes.....installing things at a slow pace and restarting afterwards to see if I can narrow down what's going on. Just all very strange. I'm like you though....all I did was change the block(mounting only).


----------



## vexingdawn

After being invited to message my order number directly through OC.net to Optimus and receiving no information, e-mailing multiple times to the official e-mail and getting nothing but a canned response, seeing people who ordered after me receiving their orders before me (not as HUGE of a deal as my manufacturing may be more complex, but a company should put the effort into shipping NEAR similar times). I've not no response as to what is going on with my order, it's been over a month and I can't get an ETA, can't even get confirmation after asking through email/pm if I'm even receiving the new backplate capable screws. I just don't know when it's going to be time to jump ship, I really don't want to, but I'm tired of feeling like so agitated about this actual LAST part of my new build and not receiving any useful customer support from a new company. I don't have any clout to push around, just my own personal experience to spread based on what has happened so far. I keep waiting every day for that e-mail or order update, log in to OC.net to no new messages and realize I probably will never get one. You guys probably don't want to hear my venting, just want to post what has been my experience thus far with Optimus. Honestly, this is the piece I am MOST excited to have in my new rig, so it's just a little heartbreaking. (Especially when your rig sits neglected at a stall state which every single other part near it as it waits to receive its CPU block)


----------



## Ajeff401

I’ve ordered a black aluminum copper am4 block. It’s been a bit over 2 weeks and still states unfulfilled.

I’m as of now understanding the manufacturing issues. After another week or so I may consider canceling the order. 

Just throwing in my status. Your not the only one awaiting 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## MakubeX

Ajeff401 said:


> I’ve ordered a black aluminum copper am4 block. It’s been a bit over 2 weeks and still states unfulfilled.
> 
> I’m as of now understanding the manufacturing issues. After another week or so I may consider canceling the order.
> 
> Just throwing in my status. Your not the only one awaiting
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


That's nothing. I ordered my black aluminum acrylic top AM4 Foundation block on June 2 and it's still unfulfilled.


----------



## rcasey02

Been 2 weeks for me as well for a acrylic and black aluminum am4 block. Must be waiting on Anodizing. I even changed from nickel plated to raw copper in hopes it might cut down on the wait. Imma give it another week or so then maybe consider looking else where. I really want this block though.


----------



## Section31

rcasey02 said:


> Been 2 weeks for me as well for a acrylic and black aluminum am4 block. Must be waiting on Anodizing. I even changed from nickel plated to raw copper in hopes it might cut down on the wait. Imma give it another week or so then maybe consider looking else where. I really want this block though.


It's long wait, actually if you want one, i got fed up with local reddit reselling so i gave it to someone local. They were going to sell it at like 100-150Cad to help fund there rig. You can contact that person to buy that Silver with Xe-Nickel Block.


----------



## rcasey02

Thanks for the offer, but I need the black mount to go with my scheme. Appreciate though.


----------



## Section31

rcasey02 said:


> Thanks for the offer, but I need the black mount to go with my scheme. Appreciate though.


I waited like 2 months for the XE-Nickel to come in. I changed mine to copper and got it maybe two weeks earlier in the end. Mine is actually going to have sit another 3-4months lol as once I get my TongFang 4800h with RTX2060 Laptop, I will sell off my 2080TI while i await the 3080TI arrival. It got me thinking about selling off the 3950X/X570/etc (with the dead time) and going for 4700-4900X/X670 or hold out till Alderlake next year with that extra cash. However that idea is way to risky.


----------



## Master Chicken

Anyone know the Length and Width of the fin array on the Gen2 cold plate. Just curious.


----------



## 98S4

MakubeX said:


> That's nothing. I ordered my black aluminum acrylic top AM4 Foundation block on June 2 and it's still unfulfilled.


That's also nothing. Some of us have been waiting 6+ months for the GPU blocks.


----------



## MakubeX

98S4 said:


> That's also nothing. Some of us have been waiting 6+ months for the GPU blocks.


Are they even shipping those yet? That sucks but, I'm comparing apple to apples here. He's waiting on the same block as me. A block that other people have already received.


----------



## 98S4

MakubeX said:


> Are they even shipping those yet? That sucks but, I'm comparing apple to apples here. He's waiting on the same block as me. A block that other people have already received.


Not shipping and no update on when they will. It's gotten out of hand. 

However, I did get my AM4 block and am very happy with it. My entire new build was based on the Optimus blocks. It's just been collecting dust for months.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Blame China for sending us their bug.


----------



## MakubeX

98S4 said:


> Not shipping and no update on when they will. It's gotten out of hand.
> 
> However, I did get my AM4 block and am very happy with it. My entire new build was based on the Optimus blocks. It's just been collecting dust for months.


Good to hear that you got yours. I got tired of waiting and, even though I still had to wait about 2 weeks for it, I went ahead and ordered a different block. I just received this bad boi. It'll be interesting to see how they compare (not that they're in the same price bracket).


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
AMD is so limited clocks wise doubt it matters.


----------



## MakubeX

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> AMD is so limited clocks wise doubt it matters.


It'll still be fun to compare them. Much of the water cooling overkill it's for fun.


----------



## ThrashZone

MakubeX said:


> It'll still be fun to compare them. Much of the water cooling overkill it's for fun.


Hi,
Yeah it could be worse for sure just throw an ek evo or velocity on it lol


----------



## Keith Myers

MakubeX said:


> Good to hear that you got yours. I got tired of waiting and, even though I still had to wait about 2 weeks for it, I went ahead and ordered a different block. I just received this bad boi. It'll be interesting to see how they compare (not that they're in the same price bracket).


Did you order the Zen 2 offset kit for that block to?. Or is that still not shipping? Supposed to help a lot by shifting the fin stack array down to better cover the chiplets.

Ohh, too bad you ordered the acrylic version and can't use the offset mount kit. I wanted to try it on my PVD/Silver Next block. But never bothered with my Foundation blocks. Would still be an interesting comparison.


----------



## MakubeX

Keith Myers said:


> Did you order the Zen 2 offset kit for that block to?. Or is that still not shipping? Supposed to help a lot by shifting the fin stack array down to better cover the chiplets.


Oh damn, no. I've seen the attached diagram but I didn't know that it required a kit. I'll see if I can find it. Thanks for letting me know.


----------



## Keith Myers

But you can't use it on the acrylic body unfortunately. Read the disclaimer. Please note: Not suitable for acrylic glass version!
This is the product page.
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3895


----------



## MakubeX

Keith Myers said:


> But you can't use it on the acrylic body unfortunately. Read the disclaimer. Please note: Not suitable for acrylic glass version!
> 
> This is the product page.
> 
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3895


Oh, ok. Yeah, I've seen the retrofit kit. Considering that this it is also meant to retrofit an existing cuplex kryos NEXT to an AM4 socker, maybe my version which is assembled for AM4 will already be offset. We'll see. I'll be assembling my new build this coming week. I'll report back on a separate thread.

Thanks for the link.


----------



## KedarWolf

MakubeX said:


> Oh damn, no. I've seen the attached diagram but I didn't know that it required a kit. I'll see if I can find it. Thanks for letting me know.


It doesn't require a kit but this kit helps. Just make sure you can use it with that block. Google is your friend.


https://www.memoryc.com/31372-der8auer-ryzen-3000-oc-custom-mounting-frame.html


----------



## Keith Myers

MakubeX said:


> Oh, ok. Yeah, I've seen the retrofit kit. Considering that this it is also meant to retrofit an existing cuplex kryos NEXT to an AM4 socker, maybe my version which is assembled for AM4 will already be offset. We'll see. I'll be assembling my new build this coming week. I'll report back on a separate thread.
> 
> Thanks for the link.


Probably not, unless you specified when ordering that it was going onto a Ryzen 3000 cpu. And from what I can tell Aquacomputer likes accessories and options to boost the bottom line.


----------



## TK421

anyone know when the optimus fan mount for the pump is going to come out?


----------



## Keith Myers

KedarWolf said:


> It doesn't require a kit but this kit helps. Just make sure you can use it with that block. Google is your friend.
> 
> 
> https://www.memoryc.com/31372-der8auer-ryzen-3000-oc-custom-mounting-frame.html


But that kit is for AIO mounting. Not helpful with custom blocks.


----------



## Section31

TK421 said:


> anyone know when the optimus fan mount for the pump is going to come out?


I asked and they did not say anything. I only got them to confirm the fittings. There timeline are inaccurate as to be expected.


----------



## Ajeff401

Hey Optimus, ETA aside can we get a prototype peek or an idea what this mount is?

Running a full loop in a small case requires a good bit of planning 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Section31

Keith Myers said:


> Probably not, unless you specified when ordering that it was going onto a Ryzen 3000 cpu. And from what I can tell Aquacomputer likes accessories and options to boost the bottom line.


My concern with the current group of waterblocks is next year chipsets. I have an feeling that LGA1700 and AM5 may require us to get new cpu waterblocks if we want optimal performance.


----------



## tcclaviger

Tis the steady March of progress. If chasing that last 0.1 of a degree (like me) an upgrade will probably be needed on AM5, but otherwise, I can't imagine the finned area of the Foundation being too small. Should just need a new mounting bracket.

So an update on usage now that the Foundation has been here a while:

Tested 18 watts per core, and 21 on SOC so a total of 237 watts to the CPU. She hung in there, stayed under 90, peaking at 86c with 24c water temp. Managed to net me 18th place on the Passmark top 20 systems of all time score board when it updates with a 9806 system score, and a 37600 CPU score.

Quit a nice outcome, nearly catches a stock 3950x lol.

Once I get my chiller setup running, I'll try and pass up the 3950.

This would not have worked on another block, as I would have breached 90c and lost boost speeds.


----------



## Section31

tcclaviger said:


> Tis the steady March of progress. If chasing that last 0.1 of a degree (like me) an upgrade will probably be needed on AM5, but otherwise, I can't imagine the finned area of the Foundation being too small. Should just need a new mounting bracket.
> 
> So an update on usage now that the Foundation has been here a while:
> 
> Tested 18 watts per core, and 21 on SOC so a total of 237 watts to the CPU. She hung in there, stayed under 90, peaking at 86c with 24c water temp. Managed to net me 18th place on the Passmark top 20 systems of all time score board when it updates with a 9806 system score, and a 37600 CPU score.
> 
> Quit a nice outcome, nearly catches a stock 3950x lol.
> 
> Once I get my chiller setup running, I'll try and pass up the 3950.
> 
> This would not have worked on another block, as I would have breached 90c and lost boost speeds.


Your probably right on that. In my case, it might be new Intel block since I am leaning towards it atm. Will see how Intel new platform performs (big/little) and if its going multigenerational Mobo for LGA1700. Then Alderlake will likely be my top choice as it can support up to MeteorLake and one more generation.


----------



## MakubeX

KedarWolf said:


> It doesn't require a kit but this kit helps. Just make sure you can use it with that block. Google is your friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.memoryc.com/31372-der8auer-ryzen-3000-oc-custom-mounting-frame.html


Interesting mounting mechanism. I'll keep it mind in case I need it.


----------



## KedarWolf

MakubeX said:


> Interesting mounting mechanism. I'll keep it mind in case I need it.






 with an AIO.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah there is another one of his for normal water blocks.


----------



## MakubeX

KedarWolf said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-EJ-2Z_kgQ with an AIO.


Ordered one from Amazon (same seller you linked): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0876F2MH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_C78bFbQMVJWCN

It'll take a couple of weeks to get delivered if the ETA is accurate so I'll test the block with the default mounting mechanism first and then I'll compare it to the custom one. Fun times!


----------



## tcclaviger

I'll probably end up ordering one too. I doubt it'll make any difference on the Foundation, but I'm curious 🙂

I suspect this will only assist blocks with too small fin areas by locating the fins more central in relation to the CCDs, Foundation doesn't have that issue, but it might still help.


----------



## chibi

Anyone order direct from Optimus to Canada? Will we get charged a customs fee? Not sure how the new nafta agreement works and if we need to pay extra. I see there's DHL or UPS options. Both are known to charge crazy fees to import.


----------



## Shawnb99

chibi said:


> Anyone order direct from Optimus to Canada? Will we get charged a customs fee? Not sure how the new nafta agreement works and if we need to pay extra. I see there's DHL or UPS options. Both are known to charge crazy fees to import.



No should only be charged the taxes. DHL isn’t that bad, UPS sucks though


----------



## tcclaviger

Look what Optimus enabled  Couldn't have scored quite as high without the cooling. Kinda wish I'd ordered a 3950x now lol.

PS: I know it's a garbage benchmark that weights 2d and ram disproportionately high but still fun to try and climb the ladder.

https://www.pcbenchmarks.net/fastest-desktop.html


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Anyone order direct from Optimus to Canada? Will we get charged a customs fee? Not sure how the new nafta agreement works and if we need to pay extra. I see there's DHL or UPS options. Both are known to charge crazy fees to import.


DHL is reasonable. UPS is bad. I reccomend USPS (20usd Shipping). USPS if you get charged anything has lowest processing fee. Also occasionally CBSA may let your item pass customs.


----------



## chibi

For Intel users, do I need to order anything additional to the Signature v2 block? 

I previously used a Heatkiller IV Pro block and used it with their Intel backplate. Only issue is I found out about the backplate after ordering the block so I had to double ship and wait for it. 

Don't want to make the same mistake with the Optimus block 

My intention is to either:


Use with current 9900KS
Upgrade and use with 10900K
Upgrade and use with 10980XE


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC Just reading up on your reservoir and seeing "The port on the right is the inlet into the reservoir" Is there any way to reverse that so the inlet is on the left side?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

@chibi

I have the V2. Had it on a 10900k and now a 10980xe. Socket 2066, just us the stand offs Optimus provides, no extra backplate needed. You don't need anything extra when ordering, comes with everything you need.


----------



## ThrashZone

chibi said:


> For Intel users, do I need to order anything additional to the Signature v2 block?
> 
> I previously used a Heatkiller IV Pro block and used it with their Intel backplate. Only issue is I found out about the backplate after ordering the block so I had to double ship and wait for it.
> 
> Don't want to make the same mistake with the Optimus block
> 
> My intention is to either:
> 
> 
> Use with current 9900KS
> Upgrade and use with 10900K
> Upgrade and use with 10980XE





MrTOOSHORT said:


> @chibi
> 
> I have the V2. Had it on a 10900k and now a 10980xe. Socket 2066, just us the stand offs Optimus provides, no extra backplate needed. You don't need anything extra when ordering, comes with everything you need.


Hi,
I'll ditto the above and add 
My sigV2 did come with a back plate I did not use it on apex z490 because it felt soft/ wonky so I left it off works great without
But if you want one be sure to pm or email support ahead of time again you don't need one.

2066 socket different beast it has a plate builtin on the board so the suds just screw into it.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I'll ditto the above and add
> My sigV2 did come with a back plate I did not use it on apex z490 because it felt soft/ wonky so I left it off works great without
> But if you want one be sure to pm or email support ahead of time again you don't need one.
> 
> 2066 socket different beast it has a plate builtin on the board so the suds just screw into it.


You are right about the plastic wonky backplate for z490. I did use it, but next time I'll just dig through my old waterblock stash and find a metal one.


----------



## KedarWolf

chibi said:


> For Intel users, do I need to order anything additional to the Signature v2 block?
> 
> I previously used a Heatkiller IV Pro block and used it with their Intel backplate. Only issue is I found out about the backplate after ordering the block so I had to double ship and wait for it.
> 
> Don't want to make the same mistake with the Optimus block
> 
> My intention is to either:
> 
> 
> Use with current 9900KS
> Upgrade and use with 10900K
> Upgrade and use with 10980XE


I was going to go with a 10980XE but forever it wasn't in stock anywhere. I went with a 3950x and I'm quite happy I went AMD.


----------



## ThrashZone

KedarWolf said:


> I was going to go with a 10980XE but forever it wasn't in stock anywhere. I went with a 3950x and I'm quite happy I went AMD.


Hi,
Yep 10980xe were like bigfoot sightings they were so limited lol


----------



## TK421

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep 10980xe were like bigfoot sightings they were so limited lol



did you remove the center o-ring on your optimus block? how does this improve performance?


----------



## ThrashZone

TK421 said:


> did you remove the center o-ring on your optimus block? how does this improve performance?


Hi,
No I left it in and shaved off flush where the cooling fin marks were at so there is no more restriction.
Did it day two long ago all early tests were done with the shaved o-ring on sigV2 and foundation.
See link in signature sigV2 test is a little lower 
Same link in my signature
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-266.html#post28388126
sigV2
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-269.html#post28391284


----------



## TK421

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> No I left it in and shaved off flush where the cooling fin marks were at so there is no more restriction.
> Did it day two long ago all early tests were done with the shaved o-ring on sigV2 and foundation.
> See link in signature sigV2 test is a little lower
> Same link in my signature
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-266.html#post28388126
> sigV2
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-269.html#post28391284



with just regular fine grit sandpaper right?


----------



## ciarlatano

TK421 said:


> with just regular fine grit sandpaper right?


I recall it being done with a razor blade. @ThrashZone has mad razor skills.......


----------



## ThrashZone

TK421 said:


> with just regular fine grit sandpaper right?


Hi,
Links I posted if you followed them and the setup link on the first would go to this one with the sigV2 opened up with the shaved o-ring and lapped part of the sigV2 also that was with sand paper but not the o-ring.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...r-block-information-discussion-thread-26.html


ciarlatano said:


> I recall it being done with a razor blade. @ThrashZone has mad razor skills.......


Hi,
Bingo razor blade ezpz :thumb:


----------



## skupples

they retired the mainstream intel back plate in favor of these nice little black nuts instad. their plastic back plate was worthless, and the block functions exactly as expected using their simplified post nuts. they even sent like 12 or 16 nylon washes   (gotta have one on each side of the board, nut, and block contact!!!) 



kinda sorta seems like passive aggressive malicious compliance.


nuts


----------



## TK421

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Links I posted if you followed them and the setup link on the first would go to this one with the sigV2 opened up with the shaved o-ring and lapped part of the sigV2 also that was with sand paper but not the o-ring.
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...r-block-information-discussion-thread-26.html
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Bingo razor blade ezpz :thumb:


gotcha


----------



## le-coq

chibi said:


> Anyone order direct from Optimus to Canada? Will we get charged a customs fee? Not sure how the new nafta agreement works and if we need to pay extra. I see there's DHL or UPS options. Both are known to charge crazy fees to import.


I've made an order, which has not been fulfilled yet. The shipping method they offered, when I was paying, was Fedex (despite the calculation calculator offering UPS).

You could add some items to your cart and before clicking final payment, have a look what options they have?


----------



## tien113

I don't know what is ETA for my order? no customer support through phone, message only. It is very bad.


----------



## skupples

they have the same response as COVID.


two weeks.


also looks like we're real close to optimus not getting the 2080ti block out before ampere since Turing is officially EOL.


----------



## Falkentyne

Keith Myers said:


> My favorite RS solder is still available via RS store on Amazon.
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NK59QRY/ref=dp_cerb_1


Welp something else in the great queue pile for me to spend my money on. Thank you for the heads up.


----------



## chibi

Thanks for the replies everyone. I'll go ahead and order one.



MrTOOSHORT said:


> @chibi
> 
> I have the V2. Had it on a 10900k and now a 10980xe. Socket 2066, just us the stand offs Optimus provides, no extra backplate needed. You don't need anything extra when ordering, comes with everything you need.


Regarding the stand offs, how does it mount if there is no backplate? I tried looking on their website for an installation pdf, but couldn't find it. I admit, I didn't try very hard as I was just scrolling through their product page and didn't find anything "support" looking to click.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

chibi said:


> Thanks for the replies everyone. I'll go ahead and order one.
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the stand offs, how does it mount if there is no backplate? I tried looking on their website for an installation pdf, but couldn't find it. I admit, I didn't try very hard as I was just scrolling through their product page and didn't find anything "support" looking to click.


For x299, just screw in standoffs in the circled threads. 

z490, there is a plastic backplate in the box.


----------



## chibi

MrTOOSHORT said:


> For x299, just screw in standoffs in the circled threads.
> 
> z490, there is a plastic backplate in the box.



Thanks MrTOOSHORT! 

So for z390/z490, use the included plastic backplate. (can I re-use a Heatkiller backplate by chance? That one's metal and very sturdy)

For x299, screw the standoffs onto the socket itself, gotcha.


----------



## ThrashZone

chibi said:


> Thanks MrTOOSHORT!
> 
> So for z390/z490, use the included plastic backplate. (can I re-use a Heatkiller backplate by chance? That one's metal and very sturdy)
> 
> For x299, screw the standoffs onto the socket itself, gotcha.


Hi,
Back plate are usually all the same heatkiller's might be fine and good to have around because optimus may or may not send one they have gone back and forth on supplying one or not since 2066 & 115?/ 1200 socket the optimus foundation or sigV2 will mount on either board.
Heatkiller's back plate is probably better !


----------



## Shawnb99

So are there delays on all parts of just a few blocks? Debating going with all Optimus fittings and maybe dual pump/reservoir for my next tear down/rebuild


----------



## chibi

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Back plate are usually all the same heatkiller's might be fine and good to have around because optimus may or may not send one they have gone back and forth on supplying one or not since 2066 & 115?/ 1200 socket the optimus foundation or sigV2 will mount on either board.
> Heatkiller's back plate is probably better !



Thanks Thrash, I will try it out once the block is received. =]


----------



## ThrashZone

chibi said:


> Thanks Thrash, I will try it out once the block is received. =]


Hi,
No problem heatkiller's back plate is metal so yeah much better than mushy plastic.


----------



## chibi

You guys recommend the nickle block over copper signature v2? I had previous nickle blocks, both ek cpu and gpu flake. Thinking about going copper this time.


----------



## ThrashZone

chibi said:


> You guys recommend the nickle block over copper signature v2? I had previous nickle blocks, both ek cpu and gpu flake. Thinking about going copper this time.


Hi,
I prefer copper.


----------



## chibi

I went ahead with the copper signature v2 block. $298 cad shipped, brutal! But I'm sure it'll be worth it.


----------



## aguyonurbudlist

Anyone receive anything lately? Just trying to get a feel for where things are in the order cue. Is it true they have about 2000-2500 orders?


----------



## KedarWolf

tcclaviger said:


> I'll probably end up ordering one too. I doubt it'll make any difference on the Foundation, but I'm curious 🙂
> 
> I suspect this will only assist blocks with too small fin areas by locating the fins more central in relation to the CCDs, Foundation doesn't have that issue, but it might still help.


The fin area on the AM4 Optimus Foundation covers all the chiplets on the 3000 series without the RYZEN 3000 OC Bracket Mount but it still may help some as it centers the block on the chiplets more than a standard mount which might help cooling efficiency. :h34r-smi


----------



## tcclaviger

My thoughts exactly Kedar Wolf.

My new case arrives today, in prep for a transition from a 3x480 loop to a 1hp chiller loop and a 3600xt to arrive to be sacrificed to the "how fast will it go" gods. Poor 3600xt is going to brutalized lol.


----------



## MakubeX

tcclaviger said:


> My thoughts exactly Kedar Wolf.
> 
> My new case arrives today, in prep for a transition from a 3x480 loop to a 1hp chiller loop and a 3600xt to arrive to be sacrificed to the "how fast will it go" gods. Poor 3600xt is going to brutalized lol.


That's funny, mine arrived today as well. What case did you get?


----------



## tcclaviger

I bought a Lianli Lancool II Mesh, I loved the original.

Water will cool: VRM, CPU, GPU, RAM, Primary NVME SSD, GPU

It has a perfect spot to mount pass-through g1/4 bulkheads indicated here, and good air-flow for the little things that need to be passively cooled:


----------



## MakubeX

tcclaviger said:


> I bought a Lianli Lancool II Mesh, I loved the original.
> 
> 
> 
> Water will cool: VRM, CPU, GPU, RAM, Primary NVME SSD, GPU
> 
> 
> 
> It has a perfect spot to mount pass-through g1/4 bulkheads indicated here, and good air-flow for the little things that need to be passively cooled:


Great choice!


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

I went full crazy last night and de-lidded my 9900KS to run bare-die with my Optimus V2. I ground down 2.5mm off the mounting bolts to ensure roughly equal pressure to with the IHS. Applied Thermal Grizzly liquid metal for the first time, too. Dropped my AVX P95 temps by ~10-15C. I have about a 10C delta between coldest and hottest cores, so I might need to play with my TIM application a little more. But massive improvement and no more clock throttling on AVX.


----------



## tcclaviger

Very nice result and effort there Voodoo Rufus!!

Here's the Optimus Coping with some loads small FFTs, AVX2. Second pic is small FFT no AVX. 0.271 C/W, very respectable when on a chip known for crap thermal transfer from core to cold plate (and I've not lapped the chip yet).


----------



## springs113

Can anyone... please remind me what was there updated screws optimus sent out for the threadripper block.


----------



## Keith Myers

springs113 said:


> Can anyone... please remind me what was there updated screws optimus sent out for the threadripper block.


This was Optimus WC's response to me when asking what the TR block update package they sent me was about.



> The new acrylic insert can yield another 4c drop, in some scenarios. It has a better bow shape, otherwise it's the same.
> 
> The new posts also make installation easier and stronger. We'll be shipping the new insert and posts for all TR blocks.


----------



## blitzkrieg666

*Thermalpaste spread*

Hey guys, was this a good application? I'm guessing the pattern in the middle is that '_concave-bow_' effect?
This was after 4+ months of manual-spread Kryonaut.


----------



## MakubeX

blitzkrieg666 said:


> Hey guys, was this a good application? I'm guessing the pattern in the middle is that '_concave-bow_' effect?
> 
> This was after 4+ months of manual-spread Kryonaut.


Looks good to me.


----------



## Avacado

Might consider a bit less TIM next spread. Otherwise good coverage.


----------



## ThrashZone

blitzkrieg666 said:


> Hey guys, was this a good application? I'm guessing the pattern in the middle is that '_concave-bow_' effect?
> This was after 4+ months of manual-spread Kryonaut.


Hi,
Reminds me of my old 7900x with odd shape 
High in the middle and outside but with a circle concave in it 
Flat would of been better because no block with fit that funky shape.

But yeah good as it gets.


----------



## tcclaviger

blitzkrieg666 said:


> Hey guys, was this a good application? I'm guessing the pattern in the middle is that '_concave-bow_' effect?
> This was after 4+ months of manual-spread Kryonaut.


Very Ryzen 3000ish shape, at least it's similar, but more drastic, than mine.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC You design my dual pumps yet? It's really going to be impractical to get two reservoirs and run them in series. Going to need 90' bends going in and out of both pumps. Might not be enough for what I have in mind


----------



## MakubeX

KedarWolf said:


> It doesn't require a kit but this kit helps. Just make sure you can use it with that block. Google is your friend.
> 
> 
> https://www.memoryc.com/31372-der8auer-ryzen-3000-oc-custom-mounting-frame.html


So I received the der8auer custom mounting system but it turns out that my Kryos NEXT block is not compatible. The mounting plate has some builtin standoffs that collide with the screw holding the nuggets. On top of that the plate collides with the first M.2 port on my board. :laughings Hopefully the Optimus block is compatible, whenever I receive it.


----------



## blackzaru

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC You design my dual pumps yet? It's really going to be impractical to get two reservoirs and run them in series. Going to need 90' bends going in and out of both pumps. Might not be enough for what I have in mind


They can barely (or not at all) keep up with demand right now on their cpu blocks. Let alone the gpu blocks and and fittings, that have yet to ship. You truly believe they will have designed, produced prototypes and tested to confirm the design in less than 2 weeks amidst the covid crisis and their backlog of orders on other components?

Realistically, even if they did end up doing a dual pump unit, it will not see the light of day before 2021, if not later.


----------



## skupples

aguyonurbudlist said:


> Anyone receive anything lately? Just trying to get a feel for where things are in the order cue. Is it true they have about 2000-2500 orders?


 enough of them to eternally delay 2080ti blocks to the point of mass cancellations when 30x0/big navi drops.




Shawnb99 said:


> @*Optimus WC* You design my dual pumps yet? It's really going to be impractical to get two reservoirs and run them in series. Going to need 90' bends going in and out of both pumps. Might not be enough for what I have in mind


so far, kinda seems like the pump housings are a cash grab, with crappy bits that're losing their plate.


----------



## skline00

Just moved from a Phantek Ethoo Pro case to a Fractal Define 7XL for my custom water cooled 3900x using the Optimus WB and a Rad VII with an EK WB.o
The 7XL is a big case but not overpowering.

Spec are below.


----------



## Shawnb99

blackzaru said:


> They can barely (or not at all) keep up with demand right now on their cpu blocks. Let alone the gpu blocks and and fittings, that have yet to ship. You truly believe they will have designed, produced prototypes and tested to confirm the design in less than 2 weeks amidst the covid crisis and their backlog of orders on other components?
> 
> Realistically, even if they did end up doing a dual pump unit, it will not see the light of day before 2021, if not later.


I'm well aware of that. This is my semi monthly reminder to design one. I'm going to keep asking from time to time until they come out with one.


----------



## skupples

you should ask them to release products that're actually known to be in the queue first


----------



## Shawnb99

I've given up on the GPU blocks. The dual pumps is more of a pipe dream as well, I don't expect it by the time I'll do my next tear down, plus at the price they want for the pump/reservoir combos is just to much. Looking at maybe dual AQ Ulitube's now.


----------



## Mxj1

Shawnb99 said:


> I've given up on the GPU blocks. The dual pumps is more of a pipe dream as well, I don't expect it by the time I'll do my next tear down, plus at the price they want for the pump/reservoir combos is just to much. Looking at maybe dual AQ Ulitube's now.


I wouldn't hold out for a dual pump setup from Optimus... seems like they're slow to get to market as-is. I can say that I'm happy with the alphacool brass dual d5 setup that I have. It's got plenty of ports and very quiet.

The Ultitubes are nice. I've got a spare 150 pro that I'm interested in letting go. Let me know if you're interested.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I've given up on the GPU blocks. The dual pumps is more of a pipe dream as well, I don't expect it by the time I'll do my next tear down, plus at the price they want for the pump/reservoir combos is just to much. Looking at maybe dual AQ Ulitube's now.


The ultitube turned out to be very nice. Good deal too for something in Canada. Remember to speak with aquacomputer rep sven to arrange dhl express shipping.


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> I wouldn't hold out for a dual pump setup from Optimus... seems like they're slow to get to market as-is. I can say that I'm happy with the alphacool brass dual d5 setup that I have. It's got plenty of ports and very quiet.
> 
> The Ultitubes are nice. I've got a spare 150 pro that I'm interested in letting go. Let me know if you're interested.


Seems like the reddit watercooling/ocn group have really kind of merged here lol.


----------



## Mxj1

Section31 said:


> Seems like the reddit watercooling/ocn group have really kind of merged here lol.


I also had a great experience with Sven.

I really try not to post on Reddit. I more or less just flick through the pictures in that Reddit.
Even when I try to say something nice about someone's build, a random comes through to argue with me. Today I told someone it was nice to see all the hardware they had stuffed into a mid tower (evolve x). Along comes two people to tell me the evolve x is not a mid tower. When I link to the phanteks page calling it a mid tower, one of the guys argue and says phanteks is wrong.

So yeah, Reddit is a weird place to me...


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> I also had a great experience with Sven.
> 
> I really try not to post on Reddit. I more or less just flick through the pictures in that Reddit.
> Even when I try to say something nice about someone's build, a random comes through to argue with me. Today I told someone it was nice to see all the hardware they had stuffed into a mid tower (evolve x). Along comes two people to tell me the evolve x is not a mid tower. When I link to the phanteks page calling it a mid tower, one of the guys argue and says phanteks is wrong.
> 
> So yeah, Reddit is a weird place to me...


That I agree with you. It's always been pleasant dealing with Sven (Aquacomputer) and Jacob (Heatkiller). I have it far worse, lot of people asking me for freebies/etc.


----------



## blackzaru

Section31 said:


> That I agree with you. It's always been pleasant dealing with Sven (Aquacomputer) and Jacob (Heatkiller). I have it far worse, lot of people asking me for freebies/etc.


I literally warned you that the way you acted on some subs would result in people begging and annoying the hell out of you. Not that it was not altruistic of you, but it's just how people generally are on an anonymized platform.


----------



## Section31

blackzaru said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> That I agree with you. It's always been pleasant dealing with Sven (Aquacomputer) and Jacob (Heatkiller). I have it far worse, lot of people asking me for freebies/etc.
> 
> 
> 
> I literally warned you that the way you acted on some subs would result in people begging and annoying the hell out of you. Not that it was not altruistic of you, but it's just how people generally are on an anonymized platform.
Click to expand...

Its price i got to pay for being nice lol. I cleaned out the bulk of my excess stuff.


----------



## zervun

Well, I got my optimus threadripper block (ordered in January) a week or so back. The block is gorgeous.

Unfortunately when mounting it to my Gigabyte auros extreme trx40 the nut in the backplate popped off like farpetrad had happen. Really unbelievable as I wasn't even torqueing it down that hard with the threadripper tool (it wasn't close to clicking yet).

So I'm RMA'ing that and got a replacement auros extreme. Which I'm also worried about will happen again. I'm also worried that gigabyte will deny the return as it's "physical damage" even though I've never powered the board on and it seems like a defect with the backplate.

Putting it on the new auros extreme the Optimus bolts which have a black "sleeve" are stripped on one of them so it just spins - so I'm stuck in the water even with the new board.

I've emailed Optimus and hopefully they can get me some replacement mounting screws out to me soon. I'm worried that others might spin as well/stripped. Unsure if I have the new design or old design mounting screws. I haven't been even torquing them down much. Reading the other thread frapetrad had Optimus said to torque them down until the AMD hex nut tool clicks which has me worried.

I'm not a fan of the screw design - taking them out the black piece has the potential to unscrew keeping the silver part still attached to the waterblock/backplate. I was able to kind of twist them in again then a quick out and it worked but seems like a bad design. The black piece and silver piece should be stuck together better in some fashion. I think I will put some threadlocker on them next time I put them in


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Gigabyte back plate or optimus back plate ?


----------



## zervun

Gigabyte back plate is where the nut popped out - gigabyte motherboard defect or that we are not supposed to snug them down. The backplate is built into the threadripper motherboard. Looking at the board the nut is just held in by force with little notches in it to hold it into place/prevent it from turning. And as such there is really no way to fix it - I tried pressing it back in but it just popped right out. Could of course jbweld it but I decided to submit and RMA to gigabyte.

What is stripped is the little black nut that has a hex on the end for tightening the waterblock onto the motherboard - Optimus

Two separate issues.

I was tightening carefully, criss-cross a little bit each time. It was starting to get snuggish (I use that relatively as I really was not cranking down on it) and pop, the nut came out of the motherboard. The AMD tool didn't "click" at any point (it works like a torque wrench and gives way when it is appropriately tight).

Ordered a new motherboard on amazon and never got that far to tighten the waterblock down as one of the black nuts just "spun" as it was stripped. No idea if it was the one that popped the nut out or not.

But I'm stuck until I get new mounting screws hopefully @Optimus WC can send some soon as I'm dead in the water.


----------



## Shawnb99

So @Optimus WC sell me on using you're expensive fittings for my switch over to hardline copper tubing compared to say Bitspower. Will need at least 24 fittings if not more.


----------



## Avacado

From Bits.


----------



## rcasey02

My AM4 foundation block shipped today. Ordered on June 27th. Looking forward to getting it, been waiting for it to redo my cpu loop.


----------



## MakubeX

rcasey02 said:


> My AM4 foundation block shipped today. Ordered on June 27th. Looking forward to getting it, been waiting for it to redo my cpu loop.


Mine shipped today as well. Ordered June 2nd.


----------



## Ajeff401

Mine shipped also AM4 copper black plexi 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## agentdark45

zervun said:


> Gigabyte back plate is where the nut popped out - gigabyte motherboard defect or that we are not supposed to snug them down. The backplate is built into the threadripper motherboard. Looking at the board the nut is just held in by force with little notches in it to hold it into place/prevent it from turning. And as such there is really no way to fix it - I tried pressing it back in but it just popped right out. Could of course jbweld it but I decided to submit and RMA to gigabyte.
> 
> What is stripped is the little black nut that has a hex on the end for tightening the waterblock onto the motherboard - Optimus
> 
> Two separate issues.
> 
> I was tightening carefully, criss-cross a little bit each time. It was starting to get snuggish (I use that relatively as I really was not cranking down on it) and pop, the nut came out of the motherboard. The AMD tool didn't "click" at any point (it works like a torque wrench and gives way when it is appropriately tight).
> 
> Ordered a new motherboard on amazon and never got that far to tighten the waterblock down as one of the black nuts just "spun" as it was stripped. No idea if it was the one that popped the nut out or not.
> 
> But I'm stuck until I get new mounting screws hopefully @Optimus WC can send some soon as I'm dead in the water.


I had one of those "press fit" nuts pop when installing an air cooler on my TRX40 Designare. Got it RMA'd by Amazon and luckily the new one is fine with the Optimus block (even at full click torque). But yep, those nuts are absolutely terribly designed - I couldn't believe they are simply held in by friction and aren't machined directly into the mounting plate.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, I'm here, had to take a week or so off for doc stuff. Let me know if there are any questions


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> So @Optimus WC sell me on using you're expensive fittings for my switch over to hardline copper tubing compared to say Bitspower. Will need at least 24 fittings if not more.


I wouldn't use Copper with the 12mm BP Non-Advanced Fittings. I had headache's with them and gave them all away.


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> So @Optimus WC sell me on using you're expensive fittings for my switch over to hardline copper tubing compared to say Bitspower. Will need at least 24 fittings if not more.


One word: leaks. Or lack there of  Our fittings grip like crazy. Gaskets beat o-rings every day of the week. 

We also have metric fittings now! When you order, email us that you want metric sizes instead of freedom units.


----------



## 98S4

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, I'm here, had to take a week or so off for doc stuff. Let me know if there are any questions


 @Optimus WC A substantial GPU Block update, please. It's been 6 months...


----------



## Ajeff401

I’d like to know the specs of the gpu block..how wide? Cost of backplate?

Most importantly..where’s that reservoir bracket 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## knightriot

waiting pcs stock optimus threadripper block too long  so i go to try this new first, I received it yesterday


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> I wouldn't use Copper with the 12mm BP Non-Advanced Fittings. I had headache's with them and gave them all away.



K thanks. Likely will go with Optimus fittings.
I’ll stick with Bitspower for the rotaries and 90 degree fittings.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't use Copper with the 12mm BP Non-Advanced Fittings. I had headache's with them and gave them all away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> K thanks. Likely will go with Optimus fittings.
> Iâ€™️ll stick with Bitspower for the rotaries and 90 degree fittings.
Click to expand...

Thats what i do. I hear the 14mm/16mm are better.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Shawnb99 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So @Optimus WC sell me on using you're expensive fittings for my switch over to hardline copper tubing compared to say Bitspower. Will need at least 24 fittings if not more.
> 
> 
> 
> One word: leaks. Or lack there of /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif Our fittings grip like crazy. Gaskets beat o-rings every day of the week.
> 
> We also have metric fittings now! When you order, email us that you want metric sizes instead of freedom units.
Click to expand...

You guys need to start an fanclub with all the people buying your products hehe.


----------



## garyd9

Section31 said:


> You guys need to start an fanclub with all the people buying your products hehe.


I wonder what their backorder list looks like. Reading this thread, it seems like the majority of people who have bought haven't actually received.


----------



## Shawnb99

garyd9 said:


> I wonder what their backorder list looks like. Reading this thread, it seems like the majority of people who have bought haven't actually received.



Depends on the block. Don’t think the Signature or Intel blocks were backordered, just the threadripper took forever and the GPU one is still MIA. Otherwise it’s the usual COVID-19 delays.
If they can stop redesigning the blocks mid production they might get ahead.


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Depends on the block. Don’t think the Signature or Intel blocks were backordered, just the threadripper took forever and the GPU one is still MIA. Otherwise it’s the usual COVID-19 delays.
> *If they can stop redesigning the blocks mid production they might get ahead*.


^^^ this 
Pretty lame to stop or delay production for meager gains 
GPU's are pretty much the same, looks is about all that are different block to block
I sure would not wait this long for anything it's already close to 50.00 more than other blocks probably.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Shawnb99 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on the block. Donâ€™️t think the Signature or Intel blocks were backordered, just the threadripper took forever and the GPU one is still MIA. Otherwise itâ€™️s the usual COVID-19 delays.
> *If they can stop redesigning the blocks mid production they might get ahead*.
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^ this
> Pretty lame to stop or delay production for meager gains
> GPU's are pretty much the same, looks is about all that are different block to block
> I sure would not wait this long for anything it's already close to 50.00 more than other blocks probably.
Click to expand...

Hopefully this means 30xx blocks or big Navi blocks do not take so much time


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Hopefully this means 30xx blocks or big Navi blocks do not take so much time


Hi,
I don't see how 30 series would be faster unless some corona crap disappears and optimus does all work/ nickle... in house.


----------



## 98S4

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I don't see how 30 series would be faster unless some corona crap disappears and optimus does all work/ nickle... in house.


Kind of hard for them to be slower, right? 6, 7, 8? months since they took peoples pre-order money.


----------



## NewType88

98S4 said:


> Kind of hard for them to be slower, right? 6, 7, 8? months since they took peoples pre-order money.


Dang ! for what, 2080ti blocks ?


----------



## 98S4

NewType88 said:


> Dang ! for what, 2080ti blocks ?


My order was paid for and placed in January. Still not a single substantial update from them besides the standard BS of "We found improvements! 2 more weeks and now we're giving you a free backplate!" They clearly made the decision to keep the masses "happy" with the CPU blocks and leave us early adopters behind.


----------



## NewType88

98S4 said:


> My order was paid for and placed in January. Still not a single substantial update from them besides the standard BS of "We found improvements! 2 more weeks and now we're giving you a free backplate!" They clearly made the decision to keep the masses "happy" with the CPU blocks and leave us early adopters behind.


That sucks, I would of canceled a long time ago.


----------



## qes27

NewType88 said:


> Dang ! for what, 2080ti blocks ?


Threadripper blocks shipped in June and pre-orders started last year. 2080ti block folks are still waiting.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Tch inb4 they do martial law in chicago @OptimusWC dissapears lol

They just shot 14 people here at a funeral so whoever gets their stuff cheers. Probably they will re-lockdown like the other states if it keeps off the covid stuff.


----------



## Shawnb99

zGunBLADEz said:


> Tch inb4 they do martial law in chicago @OptimusWC dissapears lol
> 
> They just shot 14 people here at a funeral so whoever gets their stuff cheers. Probably they will re-lockdown like the other states if it keeps off the covid stuff.


Get out of here with this crap.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Shawnb99 said:


> zGunBLADEz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Tch inb4 they do martial law in chicago @OptimusWC dissapears lol
> 
> They just shot 14 people here at a funeral so whoever gets their stuff cheers. Probably they will re-lockdown like the other states if it keeps off the covid stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get out of here with this crap.
Click to expand...


For real tho ..... They started backtracking with the opening... Plus the shootings yep 100%


----------



## Shawnb99

zGunBLADEz said:


> For real tho ..... They started backtracking with the opening... Plus the shootings yep 100%


The level of stupidity just astounds me sometimes. This planet is truly doomed.


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Get out of here with this crap.


Hi,
More like reality t.v.
But yeah optimus is outside the war zone.


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> More like reality t.v.
> But yeah optimus is outside the war zone.


Jerry really was the downfall of society


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Jerry really was the downfall of society


Hi,
Nope just an excuse 
Downfall of society is every day or weekend in Chicago and other lib cities that go unreported for the most part and if reported just said to be peaceful protesting lol no that's how it started but ended in rioting/ pillaging/ looting it's the purge generation.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah I don't even know where to start with that.

So back on topic kind, figuring out how many fittings I'll need. Do you think 2 D5's pump/reservoir would be enough with 2 blocks, 3 GTS rads, 4 GTX ones and I'd say around 50 or so 90 degree bends? Likely will have to go 90 degree bends in and out of both pumps, so since it's been awhile since I've used D5's I wonder if they are enough.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Problem is the concentration of people. this kids are not about the $$ no more... This is a game to them nobody aint changing that... At least the ogs were all about the money and they only mess with the people that are into the game.


----------



## qes27

@TrashZone, @Shawnb99, and the couple others who can't seem to stop trying to interject their BS, nobody gives a **** about your political rantings in a vendor's thread on an overclocking forum. Take it to Breitbart comment sections or somewhere else appropriate.


----------



## ThrashZone

qes27 said:


> @trashZone, @Shawnb99, and the couple others who can't seem to stop trying to interject their BS, nobody gives a **** about your political rantings on an overclocking forum. Take it to Breitbart comment sections or somewhere else appropriate.


Hi,
Yes sir mr.newbie


----------



## qes27

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yes sir mr.newbie


Oh boy you really got me. I'm so embarrassed to not spend all my days hanging out posting garbage for imaginary internet points.


----------



## ThrashZone

qes27 said:


> Oh boy you really got me. I'm so embarrassed to not spend all my days hanging out posting garbage for imaginary internet points.


Hi,
So you want to tell others to stop off topic stuff but you continue to off topic post :doh:


----------



## dwolvin

So, back to the thread...


Anyone build an AMD Foundation build recently? What's that block look like on a MB?


----------



## Section31

The optimus hard tube fittings are amazing. I have used the BP regular, premium and advanced but they can't compare with the optimus fittings, they are very clean looking and fit perfectly flush. If you have the budget, they are best option fittings imo. If your on budget, obviously go barrows.


----------



## rcasey02

@OptimusWC just got my AM4 block and the quality is levels ahead of my EK block. Temps dropped around 3-5 degrees. I didn’t take the center o ring out.


----------



## garyd9

rcasey02 said:


> just got my AM4 block and the quality is levels ahead of my EK block. Temps dropped around 3-5 degrees. I didn’t take the center o ring out.


That's a very clean build. My compliments. Which case is that?


----------



## Section31

Duplicate


----------



## Section31

garyd9 said:


> That's a very clean build. My compliments. Which case is that?


It's definately an caselabs. The Motherboard Tray, Hexagon Cut outs are known to be from them. Once you look at the first picture, its dead giveaway. It might be an SMA8A Revision but its acrylic not temper glass so likely an SMA8A.


----------



## rcasey02

Thanks, much appreciated. That's a CaseLabs SMA8A old version.


----------



## Section31

rcasey02 said:


> Thanks, much appreciated. That's a CaseLabs SMA8A old version.


I wish i had bought the SMA8A Revision like many others here and among my friends.


----------



## rcasey02

Yea I had planned on getting the conversion kit to update mine, but didn't get it in time.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

qes27 said:


> @TrashZone, @Shawnb99, and the couple others who can't seem to stop trying to interject their BS, nobody gives a **** about your political rantings in a vendor's thread on an overclocking forum. Take it to Breitbart comment sections or somewhere else appropriate.


Yes sir!!!! it looks like you miss the whole thread there is a bunch on info waaaay back xD


----------



## Section31

rcasey02 said:


> Yea I had planned on getting the conversion kit to update mine, but didn't get it in time.


We are all waiting for true caselabs replacement. It and Optimus are such an perfect combo


----------



## rcasey02

For real. I still have optimism that someday they will make a comeback. I could use some parts for mine, mainly a midplate. lol I have a bunch of holes drilled in it from different configs on my loops in the past.


----------



## tcclaviger

Been playing with a 3600xt on my Foundation now, switching the 3900x out.

The block still performs great, but single CCD is so much worse at moving heat out than the dual ccd chips, and I lapped the 3600xt IHS to a nice flat copper surface and am using conductonaut.

1.3 volts GET at 4600mhz is 71.1c with 24c ambient in P95, about 68c in R20. Temps are very similar to my 3900x at 1/2 the power, e.g. at 194 watts 3900x is at around 72c, just about twice as much.

Still performs much better than an AIO would, from what I've seen by about 13c, but I am not impressed with the heat transport on single CCD Ryzen vs the dual chips. A totally separate problem that no block will correct.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC Am I correct that I could unscrew the top of your reservoir without having to take it apart like most others I've used? It just unscrews off? Would make filling it a lot quicker.


----------



## agentdark45

Section31 said:


> We are all waiting for true caselabs replacement. It and Optimus are such an perfect combo


Now if Optimus got into making cases...Gimme a thick walled sandblasted/anodised aluminium beast that can hold 4x480 radiators with ease and maybe a couple of 360's for good measure...lawd!

Basically a bigger Lian Li 011 dynamic Xl / refined and bigger version of the Phanteks 719.


----------



## Shawnb99

agentdark45 said:


> Now if Optimus got into making cases...Gimme a thick walled sandblasted/anodised aluminium beast that can hold 4x480 radiators with ease and maybe a couple of 360's for good measure...lawd!
> 
> Basically a bigger Lian Li 011 dynamic Xl / refined and bigger version of the Phanteks 719.


So STH10 or TH10. I got dual 560's, dual 480's and 360 atm, going to be adding least another 480 if not another 360 as well. I want the TX10 horizontal Caselabs never made. I'd settle for a TX10 but impossible to find.


----------



## Ajeff401

Bb


A





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## tcclaviger

So cases....

While we're wishlisting.

Rotated MB ala Raven RV02, 16Dx7Wx16H please, 3x120 top, 3x120 bottom, solid front and rear, PSU relocated to front please. K thx.

That'd be great for my chiller build.


----------



## dwolvin

Shawnb99 said:


> @*Optimus WC* Am I correct that I could unscrew the top of your reservoir without having to take it apart like most others I've used? It just unscrews off? Would make filling it a lot quicker.



I'm not Optimus, but I can see threads on the tube tops on the site- I can't imagine they are not screwed on.


----------



## garyd9

agentdark45 said:


> Now if Optimus got into making cases...Gimme a thick walled sandblasted/anodised aluminium beast that can hold 4x480 radiators with ease and maybe a couple of 360's for good measure...lawd!
> 
> Basically a bigger Lian Li 011 dynamic Xl / refined and bigger version of the Phanteks 719.


I'd kill for an over-sized case with a horizontal motherboard mounting, and that was <=19 inches in height (to fit under a shelf overhang.) Caselabs used to have one, but I couldn't possibly afford one at the time, and now they're... gone.. and it's partially my fault.

I ended up getting a thermaltake X5 "kinda-clone" that probably helped drive CL out of business, but I just couldn't afford CL prices at the time.


----------



## Section31

garyd9 said:


> I'd kill for an over-sized case with a horizontal motherboard mounting, and that was <=19 inches in height (to fit under a shelf overhang.) Caselabs used to have one, but I couldn't possibly afford one at the time, and now they're... gone.. and it's partially my fault.
> 
> I ended up getting a thermaltake X5 "kinda-clone" that probably helped drive CL out of business, but I just couldn't afford CL prices at the time.


Caselabs went out of business because of bad management (at parent level) so you didn't cause its downfall. Your order wouldn't have saved caselabs. Even modone (founded by caselabs son) eventually disappeared and was bought up by Titan Rigs.

Funny thing, you mention it, I am currently debating whether to continue my own caselabs rebuild project (will involve custom parts being made whenever i can travel to hong kong and find people to make it for me) or just be plain lazy and replacement the component in my existing PC-011XL setup. Always had one eye on the selling part and one on the reusing. The main issue being i can't fetch good price for it as shipping from Canada will kill any deal (going to be 100-150USD at minimum) and my costs are too high (once you factor in shipping/taxes). Total costs are like 800Cad. Who in there mind will pay 900-1000Cad for an caselabs s8 lol. Not wasting my time locally since I can't sell it for more than 400Cad here. So i might as well keep it. They sell locally in the US in the 400-500USD range (shipping included)


----------



## zervun

Shawnb99 said:


> So STH10 or TH10. I got dual 560's, dual 480's and 360 atm, going to be adding least another 480 if not another 360 as well. I want the TX10 horizontal Caselabs never made. I'd settle for a TX10 but impossible to find.


This is my setup (work in progress). Still haven't picked out what I'm going to do with my 2nd system - thinking an ARM (Automatic ripping/secondary monitor machine). Goal was to have as few leak points as possible, easy to remove and not hack up drill the case ) I've only made 3 6/32 drill holes on the very top that I tapped.

Just got my replacement mounting screws for the threadripper block from Optimus (thanks @OptimusWC !). RMA'n one Gigabyte Auros Extreme TRx40 to gigabyte (we will see how that goes) as the nut to the backplate popped off. Got a another Aorus Extreme from Amazon yesterday.

I have the Mora3 w/ 200mm Noctuas on top feeds to the optimus pump/res, then down to the blackice SR2 560mm, then down to the Heatkiller res/aquacomputer vision pump. All of that is mirrored on the other computer side except just the blackice that will be mounted there the mora3 is just for the threadripper.

I custom made the acrylic mount panel which was a pita. Would have used optimus fittings but they didn't have the 16mm at the time and don't have any 90degree fittings.

Doing a hybrid hard tube/soft tube build. EK distribution block has soft tube in/out to both the Titan V and the Threadripper so that I can remove either without disassembling. I designed it so almost all leak points other than the unavoidable ones on the graphics card/cpu block are not above anything critical. Filter is at the bottom and easy to remove.

@Shawnb99 - yes their res at least the one I got the acrylic top just screws off. Will be great for filling up.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

To answer some questions:

-Yes, the top of the res can be screwed off once installed, that's how we keep it looking sweet and let ya add fluid. Personally, I don't want ports on top if they're not used, but each build is different, we have lots o' options now.

-Cases! Yes, we want to do them eventually. So many ideas, so many possibilities, so little time


----------



## ThrashZone

zervun said:


> Gigabyte back plate is where the nut popped out - gigabyte motherboard defect or that we are not supposed to snug them down. The backplate is built into the threadripper motherboard. Looking at the board the nut is just held in by force with little notches in it to hold it into place/prevent it from turning. And as such there is really no way to fix it - I tried pressing it back in but it just popped right out. Could of course jbweld it but I decided to submit and RMA to gigabyte.
> 
> What is stripped is the little black nut that has a hex on the end for tightening the waterblock onto the motherboard - Optimus
> 
> Two separate issues.
> 
> I was tightening carefully, criss-cross a little bit each time. It was starting to get snuggish (I use that relatively as I really was not cranking down on it) and pop, the nut came out of the motherboard. The AMD tool didn't "click" at any point (it works like a torque wrench and gives way when it is appropriately tight).
> 
> Ordered a new motherboard on amazon and never got that far to tighten the waterblock down as one of the black nuts just "spun" as it was stripped. No idea if it was the one that popped the nut out or not.
> 
> But I'm stuck until I get new mounting screws hopefully @Optimus WC can send some soon as I'm dead in the water.





zervun said:


> Well, I got my optimus threadripper block (ordered in January) a week or so back. The block is gorgeous.
> 
> Unfortunately when mounting it to my Gigabyte auros extreme trx40 the nut in the backplate popped off like farpetrad had happen. Really unbelievable as I wasn't even torqueing it down that hard with the threadripper tool (it wasn't close to clicking yet).
> 
> So I'm RMA'ing that and got a replacement auros extreme. Which I'm also worried about will happen again. I'm also worried that gigabyte will deny the return as it's "physical damage" even though I've never powered the board on and it seems like a defect with the backplate.
> 
> Putting it on the new auros extreme the Optimus bolts which have a black "sleeve" are stripped on one of them so it just spins - so I'm stuck in the water even with the new board.
> 
> I've emailed Optimus and hopefully they can get me some replacement mounting screws out to me soon. I'm worried that others might spin as well/stripped. Unsure if I have the new design or old design mounting screws. I haven't been even torquing them down much. Reading the other thread frapetrad had Optimus said to torque them down until the AMD hex nut tool clicks which has me worried.
> 
> I'm not a fan of the screw design - taking them out the black piece has the potential to unscrew keeping the silver part still attached to the waterblock/backplate. I was able to kind of twist them in again then a quick out and it worked but seems like a bad design. The black piece and silver piece should be stuck together better in some fashion. I think I will put some threadlocker on them next time I put them in





Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> To answer some questions:
> 
> -Yes, the top of the res can be screwed off once installed, that's how we keep it looking sweet and let ya add fluid. Personally, I don't want ports on top if they're not used, but each build is different, we have lots o' options now.
> 
> -Cases! Yes, we want to do them eventually. So many ideas, so many possibilities, so little time


Hi,
You get this fellow on PM or email support going ?
You said something of you having a gigabyte mother board graveyard from testing torque is this what you were talking about happening ?
Dude has images if you follow to original replies.


----------



## dwolvin

Petition to have a case that looks like a big MB tray with modularity (test stand to wall hung). Ya know, what the P3/P5/P7 should have been...


----------



## Shawnb99

zervun said:


> This is my setup (work in progress). Still haven't picked out what I'm going to do with my 2nd system - thinking an ARM (Automatic ripping/secondary monitor machine). Goal was to have as few leak points as possible, easy to remove and not hack up drill the case ) I've only made 3 6/32 drill holes on the very top that I tapped.
> 
> Just got my replacement mounting screws for the threadripper block from Optimus (thanks @OptimusWC !). RMA'n one Gigabyte Auros Extreme TRx40 to gigabyte (we will see how that goes) as the nut to the backplate popped off. Got a another Aorus Extreme from Amazon yesterday.
> 
> I have the Mora3 w/ 200mm Noctuas on top feeds to the optimus pump/res, then down to the blackice SR2 560mm, then down to the Heatkiller res/aquacomputer vision pump. All of that is mirrored on the other computer side except just the blackice that will be mounted there the mora3 is just for the threadripper.
> 
> I custom made the acrylic mount panel which was a pita. Would have used optimus fittings but they didn't have the 16mm at the time and don't have any 90degree fittings.
> 
> Doing a hybrid hard tube/soft tube build. EK distribution block has soft tube in/out to both the Titan V and the Threadripper so that I can remove either without disassembling. I designed it so almost all leak points other than the unavoidable ones on the graphics card/cpu block are not above anything critical. Filter is at the bottom and easy to remove.
> 
> @Shawnb99 - yes their res at least the one I got the acrylic top just screws off. Will be great for filling up.



Show off  I just love that TX10. Sure it massive but that extra room gives you so many options. Going from a M8 to a TH10 and the extra 6" depth is very welcome.


----------



## 98S4

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> To answer some questions:


That's it? You asked if people had questions, people asked, and you don't even acknowledge them?


----------



## Optimus WC

I believe Zervun has gotten new mounting from us. And, if memory serves, he installed the TR posts upside down, so the threads were stripped due to trying to force different size holes/posts/etc. Apologies if that wasn't him but someone else. 

We're working on new detailed instructions to make this easier. The system is super easy, but can never been to careful 

For other questions, sorry if I missed anything, it's hard to keep up with what's going on, esp when this thread goes off topic and into cases or whatever


----------



## cluster edge

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> To answer some questions:
> 
> -Yes, the top of the res can be screwed off once installed, that's how we keep it looking sweet and let ya add fluid. Personally, I don't want ports on top if they're not used, but each build is different, we have lots o' options now.
> 
> -Cases! Yes, we want to do them eventually. So many ideas, so many possibilities, so little time


Hey, Optimus! 
Are there any estimated dates when the black compression fittings will be available again?


----------



## skupples

I spent many years working in tech support, & still oof'd when reading the upside down post post.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Most questions people do use @Optimus WC so if you follow your alerts you'll not have to worry about missing any when things go off topic 
Or reply to emails...

This isn't an Official Optimus thread either, just saying, it just seems to turned into one.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Most questions people do use @Optimus WC so if you follow your alerts you'll not have to worry about missing any when things go off topic /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> Or reply to emails...
> 
> This isn't an Official Optimus thread either, just saying, it just seems to turned into one.


I never planned this to become an optimus thread. Caselabs owners are mostly here so caselabs is dear to us. This thread helps optimus sales, i have lot of word of mouth sales too. Even in canada, look at how the water cooling group (small) have shifted to optimus cpu blocks.

On the reddit side, look at how optimus blocks are now seen/requested in 2nd hand market. Thats pretty fast.


----------



## zervun

Optimus WC said:


> I believe Zervun has gotten new mounting from us. And, if memory serves, he installed the TR posts upside down, so the threads were stripped due to trying to force different size holes/posts/etc. Apologies if that wasn't him but someone else.
> 
> We're working on new detailed instructions to make this easier. The system is super easy, but can never been to careful
> 
> For other questions, sorry if I missed anything, it's hard to keep up with what's going on, esp when this thread goes off topic and into cases or whatever


Yes - Optimus sent me out replacement posts right away and got me on PM - I got them yesterday.

@Optimus WC Can you clarify which way the posts go in A or B? I'm not sure if I am the one that installed the TR posts upside down or not - only one of my posts stripped so I'm not sure if I was doing it correctly or not.

Looking at it it looks like B would be correct? Both ways thread on. I did A initially, which I thought was odd that the hex nut stuck out the top so I'm guessing it was wrong. I would not put it beyond myself for fubaring it up. There weren't any instructions so as soon as it threaded together I figured that was the way.


----------



## Optimus WC

zervun said:


> Yes - Optimus sent me out replacement posts right away and got me on PM - I got them yesterday.
> 
> @Optimus WC Can you clarify which way the posts go in A or B? I'm not sure if I am the one that installed the TR posts upside down or not - only one of my posts stripped so I'm not sure if I was doing it correctly or not.
> 
> Looking at it it looks like B would be correct? Both ways thread on. I did A initially, which I thought was odd that the hex nut stuck out the top so I'm guessing it was wrong. I would not put it beyond myself for fubaring it up. There weren't any instructions so as soon as it threaded together I figured that was the way.


"B" is correct.

Here are instructions:

Install CPU as normal
Spread KPX paste using spatula, going for as flat and even as possible
Install posts with short end into socket
Place Optimus block on CPU, the posts will prevent the block from sliding around
Loosely attach 4 thumb nuts
tighten a little bit at a time in a star pattern (top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left)
Once tight by hand, use Threadripper Key to tighten again
Only once very firm, then use key to tighten until it clicks


Worth noting, the threads should never feel tight. The socket standoff is M3.5 (one of the strangest threads out there), and is the only M3.5 we make, naturally. So it shouldn't fit anywhere else, unless one puts a ton of force on it.


----------



## zervun

Optimus WC said:


> "B" is correct.
> 
> Here are instructions:
> 
> Install CPU as normal
> Spread KPX paste using spatula, going for as flat and even as possible
> Install posts with short end into socket
> Place Optimus block on CPU, the posts will prevent the block from sliding around
> Loosely attach 4 thumb nuts
> tighten a little bit at a time in a star pattern (top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left)
> Once tight by hand, use Threadripper Key to tighten again
> Only once very firm, then use key to tighten until it clicks
> 
> 
> Worth noting, the threads should never feel tight. The socket standoff is M3.5 (one of the strangest threads out there), and is the only M3.5 we make, naturally. So it shouldn't fit anywhere else, unless one puts a ton of force on it.


Awesome thanks - I did indeed put the posts on wrong (upside down) hense the stripping. Of note they posts thread in very easily upside down - you can spin them very easily with your fingers.


----------



## 98S4

Optimus WC said:


> For other questions, sorry if I missed anything, it's hard to keep up with what's going on, esp when this thread goes off topic and into cases or whatever


 @Optimus WC Understandable. We have at least one person in here that likes to inject political viewpoints where they don't belong. 

There were a handful of us looking for GPU block updates. It's been over 6 months now.


----------



## Section31

For those thinking about using Optimus Fittings, I absolutely love the hard tube fittings. Just testing them and I can tell they are the best fittings I have ever used. Much better than the BP ones.

https://imgur.com/a/JdAp9JP


----------



## Ajeff401

It’s in! Looks like I’ve dropped about 4c to my previous block in prime 95


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## nullenvoid

Section31 said:


> For those thinking about using Optimus Fittings, I absolutely love the hard tube fittings. Just testing them and I can tell they are the best fittings I have ever used. Much better than the BP ones.
> 
> https://imgur.com/a/JdAp9JP





98S4 said:


> @Optimus WC Understandable. We have at least one person in here that likes to inject political viewpoints where they don't belong.
> 
> There were a handful of us looking for GPU block updates. It's been over 6 months now.


+2 on the GPU Block update

I pre-ordered my GPU block 10 months ago.


----------



## Section31

nullenvoid said:


> +2 on the GPU Block update
> 
> I pre-ordered my GPU block 10 months ago.


Yeah the wait for them have been long. So far Optimus Products performance and quality has not disappointed. Definitely interested in whatever product they come out with. Though there has been odd bumps along the way.

Hopefully the 2080TI blocks come out soon. Maybe you guys will get upgraded to 3080TI blocks lol. This is the first time, I have done lot of word of mouth advertisement to my water cooling friends. With the help of some of our more through testers here (on the intel side), lot of them have gone the route of Optimus CPU blocks at the least. I expect some of them to go Optimus for other upcoming water cooling upgrades in the future (fittings, GPU blocks). I am looking forward to Optimus New Intel CPU Blocks too as I assume Socket LGA1700 is likely to require complete new block design (as everything is big/little layout versus monolithic layout currently).


----------



## Optimus WC

Ajeff401 said:


> It’s in! Looks like I’ve dropped about 4c to my previous block in prime 95
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Awesome temps!! That's what we like to see 




Section31 said:


> Yeah the wait for them have been long. So far Optimus Products performance and quality has not disappointed. Definitely interested in whatever product they come out with. Though there has been odd bumps along the way.
> 
> Hopefully the 2080TI blocks come out soon. Maybe you guys will get upgraded to 3080TI blocks lol. This is the first time, I have done lot of word of mouth advertisement to my water cooling friends. With the help of some of our more through testers here (on the intel side), lot of them have gone the route of Optimus CPU blocks at the least. I expect some of them to go Optimus for other upcoming water cooling upgrades in the future (fittings, GPU blocks). I am looking forward to Optimus New Intel CPU Blocks too as I assume Socket LGA1700 is likely to require complete new block design (as everything is big/little layout versus monolithic layout currently).


Hey guys, so GPU blocks are happening, of course, though these times are still super challenging. Without covid, we were aiming to be completely revamped with manufacturing to handle the increase. Obviously, people are still waiting on everything. We're still doing our big revamps, but what should take a month now takes much longer. So I don't have a hard ETA, or even a soft ETA. But we are chipping away at improving everything. 

We will be offering to upgrade you to 3080 or 3080 Ti or whatever it is next. Of course, if you want a refund, no problem, or swap for other blocks, etc etc. We of course super appreciate everyone sticking with us  Preorder superstars get bonus swag and discounts . And we do definitely err on the side of making sure blocks work super, super well before releasing a product. Like Threadripper, we wanted to make sure performance was bonkers before releasing it. GPU blocks are the same and, with 3000 series, the performance diff between Optimus and others will be even greater. 

As for new Intel sockets, we don't have any early info, but whatever is done, we'll be crushing it. Our Threadripper platform lends itself well to other mega chips, if Intel goes that direction (looking at you, 3647). Chances are whatever happens with Intel, it'll be more a die/IHS shape issue more than anything.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Awesome temps!! That's what we like to see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, so GPU blocks are happening, of course, though these times are still super challenging. Without covid, we were aiming to be completely revamped with manufacturing to handle the increase. Obviously, people are still waiting on everything. We're still doing our big revamps, but what should take a month now takes much longer. So I don't have a hard ETA, or even a soft ETA. But we are chipping away at improving everything.
> 
> We will be offering to upgrade you to 3080 or 3080 Ti or whatever it is next. Of course, if you want a refund, no problem, or swap for other blocks, etc etc. We of course super appreciate everyone sticking with us  Preorder superstars get bonus swag and discounts . And we do definitely err on the side of making sure blocks work super, super well before releasing a product. Like Threadripper, we wanted to make sure performance was bonkers before releasing it. GPU blocks are the same and, with 3000 series, the performance diff between Optimus and others will be even greater.
> 
> As for new Intel sockets, we don't have any early info, but whatever is done, we'll be crushing it. Our Threadripper platform lends itself well to other mega chips, if Intel goes that direction (looking at you, 3647). Chances are whatever happens with Intel, it'll be more a die/IHS shape issue more than anything.


We just hope its more closer to launch day, which is approx 2-3months after official announcement.


----------



## 98S4

Section31 said:


> We just hope its more closer to launch day, which is approx 2-3months after official announcement.


This! While I appreciate the update (no answer is still an answer) I'd afraid the Ampere blocks will take just as long. I want to order fittings and have a fill Optimus build but I can't see myself throwing more money at a company with poor communication and hasn't delivered on promises. I don't care if the 2080ti block is the best on the market at this point, I just want a competitive top tier block that looks like the marketing material. That said, looks like i'll be ordering a Heatkiller block tonight and holding out for the 30XX blocks.


----------



## rsvette12

Can I please get the dimension from center to center of the tube locations on block - is it the same for both Signature and foundation blocks

Also confirm left is in and right is out - thank you guys


----------



## Thebc2

Welp, just placed an order for a foundation intel block for my first custom loop, didn’t take much research to find the best waterblocks out there.

Anyone have any idea on how long these are taking to ship out recently? I emailed them before placing my order and I was just told they are working as fast as they can....

Might just be easier if they actually showed what was in stock vs what wasn’t. I may have sprung for a sig v2 if they were in stock.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

rsvette12 said:


> Can I please get the dimension from center to center of the tube locations on block - is it the same for both Signature and foundation blocks


 @Optimus WC I'm also interested in the ports spread fro the Foundation block and would appreciate a response.
And is there any wait time if I order one from your website?


----------



## skupples

oof... so not only will we not be seeing a 2080ti block, we won't be seeing a 3080ti block until 6+ months into release.


mega oof.


can we get it in formal writing? 3080ti+back plate if you pre-ordered for 2080ti? because the first attempt to appease us was the included back plate, so I assume that's still part of the deal. 



otherwise, yeeep refund season. no reason to wait for that which will never release.




also - those of you attempting to defend optimus over the GPU block via PMs, shame on you.


----------



## Shawnb99

Hmm I'm willing to pre-order a 3080TI card, won't be willing to wait 6+ months after release though.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> oof... so not only will we not be seeing a 2080ti block, we won't be seeing a 3080ti block until 6+ months into release.
> 
> 
> mega oof.
> 
> 
> can we get it in formal writing? 3080ti+back plate if you pre-ordered for 2080ti? because the first attempt to appease us was the included back plate, so I assume that's still part of the deal.
> 
> 
> 
> otherwise, yeeep refund season. no reason to wait for that which will never release.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also - those of you attempting to defend optimus over the GPU block via PMs, shame on you.


This is normal for enuthiast community. Justify there purchases, etc. Everyone forgets people make the decision they feel is best. 

Regarding Gpu block, see what happens. Unless Nvidia has lot of stock, its going to be paper launch so difficult to get ahold off in first couple months


----------



## blackzaru

Section31 said:


> This is normal for enuthiast community. Justify there purchases, etc. Everyone forgets people make the decision they feel is best.
> 
> Regarding Gpu block, see what happens. Unless Nvidia has lot of stock, its going to be paper launch so difficult to get ahold off in first couple months


What is actually a bit confusing/scary about the 3080Ti launch, is that the 12 pin power connector reports are all over the place. AIB partners (Asus, Asrock, Evga, Gigabyte, MSI, etc.) have been stated to probably stick to 6 and 8 pins power connector on their custom pcbs. However, Nvidia could stick 12 pins power connectors on the reference cards and/or the OEM and SI cards.

Given that 8 pins power connectors are rated at a very conservative 150W (although, they have been shown to be able to be able to push way past 200W, in the area of 250W), the fact that the 12 pins power connector is officially rated for 600W would mean that, in order to "meet specs" whilst keeping a similar power profile on bios, AIB partners who decide to stick to 8 and 6 pins connectors will probably slap 3 of them on each card. And, for a few rare cases, we might see some high-end cars with 4 connectors. (We already have some 2080Ti (notably the lightning z) with 3 8 pins connectors.)

I do wonder what kind of layout will be used for such a number of connectors. The simple solution would be to put them at the very end (width-side) of the card, but it might create several problems for gpu length clearance in some cases. The other solution, just adding another connector on the length of the card, might start to interfere with some tubing runs that needs to run tight to the card (and, seriously, 4 to 5 inches of cables might screw up the aesthetic of several builds or limit the number of gpus we can shove in our builds).


----------



## Section31

blackzaru said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is normal for enuthiast community. Justify there purchases, etc. Everyone forgets people make the decision they feel is best.
> 
> Regarding Gpu block, see what happens. Unless Nvidia has lot of stock, its going to be paper launch so difficult to get ahold off in first couple months
> 
> 
> 
> What is actually a bit confusing/scary about the 3080Ti launch, is that the 12 pin power connector reports are all over the place. AIB partners (Asus, Asrock, Evga, Gigabyte, MSI, etc.) have been stated to probably stick to 6 and 8 pins power connector on their custom pcbs. However, Nvidia could stick 12 pins power connectors on the reference cards and/or the OEM and SI cards.
> 
> Given that 8 pins power connectors are rated at a very conservative 150W (although, they have been shown to be able to be able to push way past 200W, in the area of 250W), the fact that the 12 pins power connector is officially rated for 600W would mean that, in order to "meet specs" whilst keeping a similar power profile on bios, AIB partners who decide to stick to 8 and 6 pins connectors will probably slap 3 of them on each card. And, for a few rare cases, we might see some high-end cars with 4 connectors. (We already have some 2080Ti (notably the lightning z) with 3 8 pins connectors.)
> 
> I do wonder what kind of layout will be used for such a number of connectors. The simple solution would be to put them at the very end (width-side) of the card, but it might create several problems for gpu length clearance in some cases. The other solution, just adding another connector on the length of the card, might start to interfere with some tubing runs that needs to run tight to the card (and, seriously, 4 to 5 inches of cables might screw up the aesthetic of several builds or limit the number of gpus we can shove in our builds).
Click to expand...

Wait and see position on that. Both of us have been discussing that topic.


----------



## garyd9

blackzaru said:


> Given that 8 pins power connectors are rated at a very conservative 150W (although, they have been shown to be able to be able to push way past 200W, in the area of 250W), the fact that the 12 pins power connector is officially rated for 600W would mean that, in order to "meet specs" whilst keeping a similar power profile on bios, AIB partners who decide to stick to 8 and 6 pins connectors will probably slap 3 of them on each card. And, for a few rare cases, we might see some high-end cars with 4 connectors. (We already have some 2080Ti (notably the lightning z) with 3 8 pins connectors.)


I can't even imagine the power requirements of a GPU that "needs" 3+ 8pin connectors. Think of all the generated heat... Regardless of air or water cooling, that heat has to go somewhere.

At some point, nvidia is going to have to do something to reduce the overall power requirements in order for the cards to remain feasible.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> oof... so not only will we not be seeing a 2080ti block, we won't be seeing a 3080ti block until 6+ months into release.
> 
> mega oof.
> 
> can we get it in formal writing? 3080ti+back plate if you pre-ordered for 2080ti? because the first attempt to appease us was the included back plate, so I assume that's still part of the deal.
> 
> otherwise, yeeep refund season. no reason to wait for that which will never release.
> 
> *also - those of you attempting to defend optimus over the GPU block via PMs, shame on you*.


Hi,
lol what


----------



## MakubeX

dwolvin said:


> So, back to the thread...
> 
> 
> Anyone build an AMD Foundation build recently? What's that block look like on a MB?


Just installed the Optimus block today. This is the block installed using the der8auer RYZEN 3000 OC Custom Mounting Frame. Good thing I had that too because the included mounting hardware was incomplete.

Boy am I glad I went with quick disconnect fittings. So easy to switch out blocks. 



Optimus WC said:


> Absolutely!
> 
> Also, worth pointing out for the hard core here, backplates will bend anyway. The performance between the old system and the backplate system is nil. If it makes people happy to have the backplate, we'll support it. But again the backplate bends, as do almost everyone's backplates when applying the correct force, thus the PCB will also bend. Not a big deal either way, we've never heard of an issue (unlike GPUs). Really, AMD AM4 socket is hot garbage, and will hopefully change from the PGA to LGA style (pins on mobo, not cpu) for the next gen.


Speaking of mounting mechanisms, I did not get the new mounting hardware you said we would get with the AMD blocks. In fact, I didn't get even the thumb nuts that go behind the board that appear in the instructions. I just got the thumb screws that go on the block.


----------



## 98S4

MakubeX said:


> Just installed the Optimus block today. This is the block installed using the der8auer RYZEN 3000 OC Custom Mounting Frame. .


This is the first build I've seen that gives me anxiety. All those points of failure! 

Also that offset block is entirely unnecessary and may actually be hurting performance. What CPU are you running?


----------



## Section31

MakubeX said:


> Just installed the Optimus block today. This is the block installed using the der8auer RYZEN 3000 OC Custom Mounting Frame. Good thing I had that too because the included mounting hardware was incomplete.
> 
> Boy am I glad I went with quick disconnect fittings. So easy to switch out blocks.
> 
> 
> Speaking of mounting mechanisms, I did not get the new mounting hardware you said we would get with the AMD blocks. In fact, I didn't get even the thumb nuts that go behind the board that appear in the instructions. I just got the thumb screws that go on the block.


I'm really curious how the flow rate will be effected with so many quick disconnects. I am hesitant to use more than 3-4 in my build. Hence why i started looking at cpc qdc.


----------



## MakubeX

98S4 said:


> This is the first build I've seen that gives me anxiety. All those points of failure!
> 
> Also that offset block is entirely unnecessary and may actually be hurting performance. What CPU are you running?


I like to live on the edge. 

I have a 3900X. I'm running it at 4.3GHz all core. Nothing crazy but it's prime stable. I guess I should add the pecs to my sig at some point. I don't know if the custom mount is hurting performance but it's a couple of degrees cooler than the Kryos Cuplex NEXT with a silver cold plate I was running WITHOUT the custom mount (for less than a week XD). It's just a couple of degrees but I'll take it. Maybe once I get mounting hardware I'm missing from Optimus I'll test it without the custom mount.


----------



## MakubeX

Section31 said:


> I'm really curious how the flow rate will be effected with so many quick disconnects. I am hesitant to use more than 3-4 in my build. Hence why i started looking at cpc qdc.


That's why I got the dual pump. Flow rate is not an issue at all. Actually I have it on a curve at less than 50% until the CPU hits 70C to keep things silent. Also, these are QC4s. They don't affect flow rate much.


----------



## Section31

MakubeX said:


> That's why I got the dual pump. Flow rate is not an issue at all. Actually I have it on a curve at less than 50% until the CPU hits 70C to keep things silent. Also, these are QC4s. They don't affect flow rate much.


Makes huge difference. I am using QD3


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Makes huge difference. I am using QD3


How are you using QDC's in a hardline build. Can we still use them in hardline builds?


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Makes huge difference. I am using QD3
> 
> 
> 
> How are you using QDC's in a hardline build. Can we still use them in hardline builds?
Click to expand...

I do hybrid build. I use an flow splitter/barrowsch temp/flow sensor to seperate the hard tube and soft tube portion.


----------



## NewType88

MakubeX said:


> That's why I got the dual pump. Flow rate is not an issue at all. Actually I have it on a curve at less than 50% until the CPU hits 70C to keep things silent. Also, these are QC4s. They don't affect flow rate much.


What brand are those qdc ?


----------



## MakubeX

NewType88 said:


> What brand are those qdc ?


Koolance:
https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...upling-male-threaded-g-3-8-bspp-qd4-msg8.html


----------



## skupples

optimus has swiftly issued a refund without issue for the GPU block.


thanks. 



(note I still have a sigv2, works great, thx)


----------



## Trickz1

First i was like yay looks cool but then i saw the flow restriction and was like meh


----------



## Section31

MakubeX said:


> NewType88 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What brand are those qdc ?
> 
> 
> 
> Koolance:
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...upling-male-threaded-g-3-8-bspp-qd4-msg8.html
Click to expand...

Did you buy the adapter to use them with standard water tubing or found 3/8 tubing

Reason i ask i am figuring out how to deal with having four qdc in my proposed build. Concerned four QD3 are bad idea for flow restrictions


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Did you buy the adapter to use them with standard water tubing or found 3/8 tubing


You need a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter. The one linked screws into the port of the block or radiator. I have 5 pairs of those ones, plus like 3 sets that have a compression fitting


----------



## MakubeX

Section31 said:


> Did you buy the adapter to use them with standard water tubing or found 3/8 tubing
> 
> Reason i ask i am figuring out how to deal with having four qdc in my proposed build. Concerned four QD3 are bad idea for flow restrictions


I did. I bought one of these for each QD4 (so 2 per pair): https://www.performance-pcs.com/koo...f.html?refSrc=22373&nosto=nosto-page-product1

And some of these if I needed to convert the male G1/4 thread to female inline: https://www.performance-pcs.com/xsp...fitting-chrome-finish-xspc-g14-ff-rot-ch.html


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you buy the adapter to use them with standard water tubing or found 3/8 tubing
> 
> 
> 
> You need a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter. The one linked screws into the port of the block or radiator. I have 5 pairs of those ones, plus like 3 sets that have a compression fitting
Click to expand...

Thanks. Any experience if four qd3 will effect flow significantly?


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Thanks. Any experience if four qd3 will effect flow significantly?


Not sure I'm using QDC4's. I think like 3 of the QDC3's equal to the restriction of a block. I'm not sure.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Not sure I'm using QDC4's. I think like 3 of the QDC3's equal to the restriction of a block. I'm not sure.


I am currently using three QDC3 in my setup but once I move to the caselabs it's going to be four. I think you are right, 3 of the QDC effectively dropped my flow rate i noticed. Thanks again for your suggestion, i am just going to order two of the QD4/adapter/extender as you suggested. It works much better since I can reuse my Optimus Soft Tubing fitting and the tubing I have.


----------



## MakubeX

Section31 said:


> I am currently using three QDC3 in my setup but once I move to the caselabs it's going to be four. I think you are right, 3 of the QDC effectively dropped my flow rate i noticed. Thanks again for your suggestion, i am just going to order two of the QD4/adapter/extender as you suggested. It works much better since I can reuse my Optimus Soft Tubing fitting and the tubing I have.


I linked you the adapters I used above if they are of any help.


----------



## Section31

MakubeX said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am currently using three QDC3 in my setup but once I move to the caselabs it's going to be four. I think you are right, 3 of the QDC effectively dropped my flow rate i noticed. Thanks again for your suggestion, i am just going to order two of the QD4/adapter/extender as you suggested. It works much better since I can reuse my Optimus Soft Tubing fitting and the tubing I have.
> 
> 
> 
> I linked you the adapters I used above if they are of any help.
Click to expand...

They were great help thanks. I didn’t order the xpsc but the barrows one they had but it only needs to be female-female connector


----------



## MakubeX

Kudos to the Optimus block (combined with the derb8uer custom mount) for taking on over 200W without breaking 90C (in ~74F room temp). And this wasn't just a spike, this screenshot was taken after 4.5 hrs of Prime95.


----------



## blackzaru

MakubeX said:


> Kudos to the Optimus block (combined with the derb8uer custom mount) for taking on over 200W without breaking 90F (in ~74F room temp). And this wasn't just a spike, this screenshot was taken after 4.5 hrs of Prime95.


Oh, it broke 90 Fahrenheit alright, by your own evidence, it even broke 190 Fahrenheit. I think you meant Celsius mate, as 90F is 32C, that would be one hell of a block I'd want if it held that temp after 4.5h of prime95.

Edit: also, on a side-note: what kind of rad do you have? I personnally achieve much lower (like, well over 10 degrees lower) temps on my 3950X (although I do use two 360mm EK XE 60mm rads).


----------



## MakubeX

blackzaru said:


> Oh, it broke 90 Fahrenheit alright, by your own evidence, it even broke 190 Fahrenheit. I think you meant Celsius mate, as 90F is 32C, that would be one hell of a block I'd want if it held that temp after 4.5h of prime95.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: also, on a side-note: what kind of rad do you have? I personnally achieve much lower (like, well over 10 degrees lower) temps on my 3950X (although I do use two 360mm EK XE 60mm rads).


Lol, yes, I meant C. Typo.

I have one EK 360 XE with push pull and one EK 240 XE with push only which doubles as the exhaust for my whole system. I agree that I thought I was going to get better temps with this loop. I didn't get any better temps when using the Kryos Cuplex NEXT CPU block with a silver cold plate (no custom mount, though). The GPU temps on the other hand are super low but I can't seem to cool this CPU enough. AND I'm using Carbonaut liquid metal on both CPU and GPU.

The fans you see at the bottom run at 750rpm only. I shut them off and it didn't make a difference to the temps. I was actually thinking about flipping them and making them exhaust (especially the two under the GPU and maybe shut off the one under the pump). I think I don't have enough exhaust. I'd use them at low speed, though. These are noisier than the thicker Noctuas.

PS. When you're getting under 10C lower, what wattage are you talking about and room temp?


----------



## Section31

blackzaru said:


> Oh, it broke 90 Fahrenheit alright, by your own evidence, it even broke 190 Fahrenheit. I think you meant Celsius mate, as 90F is 32C, that would be one hell of a block I'd want if it held that temp after 4.5h of prime95.
> 
> Edit: also, on a side-note: what kind of rad do you have? I personnally achieve much lower (like, well over 10 degrees lower) temps on my 3950X (although I do use two 360mm EK XE 60mm rads).


I will say your setup is probably one of the cooler one out there. Your just missing one external radiator to make it overkill setup.


----------



## MakubeX

Section31 said:


> I will say your setup is probably one of the cooler one out there. Your just missing one external radiator to make it overkill setup.


Any pics out there?


----------



## Section31

MakubeX said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I will say your setup is probably one of the cooler one out there. Your just missing one external radiator to make it overkill setup.
> 
> 
> 
> Any pics out there?
Click to expand...

Mine will super overkill once 3080ti out. Planning to have triple rad (two new heatkiller 360mm rads, one existing hwl gtr360) and one existing mo-ra3 420


----------



## skupples

i'm trying to wrap my head around why you need so many QDC.


I'm impressed that you squeezed all those in there. I'd have to completely overhaul my STH10 paths to fit even 2 sets in (making my mobo tray usable)


----------



## Shawnb99

No need to go external, just get a bigger case to fit it all. I'm still debating adding a another 360 or not.


----------



## skupples

my buddy has the thermal take big boy fish tank... and I hate to say it, but I like its design  the I/O is all hidden up top, with inverted tray)


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> my buddy has the thermal take big boy fish tank... and I hate to say it, but I like its design  the I/O is all hidden up top, with inverted tray)


blasphemy


----------



## shotround

i was going to reuse the old case to house an additional 240 and 360 rads. i found an old atx ps and was thinking of getting a third pump to run continuously. the old case was just sitting in the closet after getting the fractal define s2. i currently have two 280 rads in the s2. going to need new/additional fittings as the ek ones have lost their plating. just have to figure out how to plumb it all in.


----------



## blackzaru

MakubeX said:


> Lol, yes, I meant C. Typo.
> 
> I have one EK 360 XE with push pull and one EK 240 XE with push only which doubles as the exhaust for my whole system. I agree that I thought I was going to get better temps with this loop. I didn't get any better temps when using the Kryos Cuplex NEXT CPU block with a silver cold plate (no custom mount, though). The GPU temps on the other hand are super low but I can't seem to cool this CPU enough. AND I'm using Carbonaut liquid metal on both CPU and GPU.
> 
> The fans you see at the bottom run at 750rpm only. I shut them off and it didn't make a difference to the temps. I was actually thinking about flipping them and making them exhaust (especially the two under the GPU and maybe shut off the one under the pump). I think I don't have enough exhaust. I'd use them at low speed, though. These are noisier than the thicker Noctuas.
> 
> PS. When you're getting under 10C lower, what wattage are you talking about and room temp?


My wattage is slightly below yours, around 195-200W peak core power (whereas your cpu peaks up to 210W according to your own picture). I'm in a room at 21 degrees flat (Air conditioning), and the cpu is lapped (which very few people will ever do).



Section31 said:


> I will say your setup is probably one of the cooler one out there. Your just missing one external radiator to make it overkill setup.


I swear to god, you have a contract with Optimus and get a commission for every MO-RA sold out there. :laugher:



MakubeX said:


> Any pics out there?


Yep, attached pics, I'm using a O11-Dynamic (regular one) as well, along with Arctic P12 fans (bottom and top rads are in push config, towards the ceiling).


----------



## MakubeX

blackzaru said:


> My wattage is slightly below yours, around 195-200W peak core power (whereas your cpu peaks up to 210W according to your own picture). I'm in a room at 21 degrees flat (Air conditioning), and the cpu is lapped (which very few people will ever do).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I swear to god, you have a contract with Optimus and get a commission for every MO-RA sold out there. :laugher:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, attached pics, I'm using a O11-Dynamic (regular one) as well, along with Arctic P12 fans (bottom and top rads are in push config, towards the ceiling).


Very nice. That's a sexy looking rig. I considered a bottom rad like that but I didn't want to block the mobo. I paid for it thermals, though. [emoji28]


----------



## blackzaru

MakubeX said:


> Very nice. That's a sexy looking rig. I considered a bottom rad like that but I didn't want to block the mobo. I paid for it thermals, though. [emoji28]


Not necessarily, a lot had to do with water flow as well, are you running your pump at too low a rev? The foundation block as insane surface area given the fin density it is boasting, but if you have too low of a waterflow into those fins, it won't make a difference compared to a lesser block with greater waterflow. And, did you make sure the entire IHS and thermal interface made full contact with your block's plate?


----------



## MakubeX

blackzaru said:


> Not necessarily, a lot had to do with water flow as well, are you running your pump at too low a rev? The foundation block as insane surface area given the fin density it is boasting, but if you have too low of a waterflow into those fins, it won't make a difference compared to a lesser block with greater waterflow. And, did you make sure the entire IHS and thermal interface made full contact with your block's plate?


Definitely not a flow issue. The pump does go full speed after a certain temp and this is a dual pump. I can see the flow with my eyes not being an issue.

As for the contact, it looks fine with my eyes but who knows. I'm sure it could be better. I broke down and ordered a 3900XT last night because I'm only able to get 4.325GHz on one CCX and then in the 42.25 -42.75GHZ range for the rest prime stable. Prime has been a ***** with my 3900X. I need quite a bit of voltage too as you probably saw in my pic.


----------



## Section31

MakubeX said:


> blackzaru said:
> 
> 
> 
> My wattage is slightly below yours, around 195-200W peak core power (whereas your cpu peaks up to 210W according to your own picture). I'm in a room at 21 degrees flat (Air conditioning), and the cpu is lapped (which very few people will ever do).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I swear to god, you have a contract with Optimus and get a commission for every MO-RA sold out there. /forum/images/smilies/laugher.gif
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, attached pics, I'm using a O11-Dynamic (regular one) as well, along with Arctic P12 fans (bottom and top rads are in push config, towards the ceiling).
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice. That's a sexy looking rig. I considered a bottom rad like that but I didn't want to block the mobo. I paid for it thermals, though. [emoji28]
Click to expand...

Meanwhile the rebuild started, Two Heatkiller Rads Up Top with reservoir/d5 next on right side chamber. Bottom will have the aqua flow sensor and putty splitter there also. Going to look sweet with Optimus Fittings and 3080TI GPU Block. Internally two Koolance QD4 and on the external radiator, the two existing Koolance QD3. 

Designing my loop in manor I can easily remove the top two radiators without draining. The reservoir/d5 pump has the drain valve so it means i can change parts fairly easily and don't need to do full drain. External rad connects to system through the QD3's (one on the G1/4 PCIE Bracket and other on on the side mounted GTR360. If i choice not use the external radiator, just need to hook up the QDC end on the PCIE bracket to the matching end on the side mounted GTR360. 

I wish i got commission but nope all out of own pocket. Also wish i could drill holes to mount the AQ6LT but i ain't taking the risk of damaging the caselabs in any manor now.


----------



## MakubeX

Section31 said:


> Meanwhile the rebuild started, Two Heatkiller Rads Up Top with reservoir/d5 next on right side chamber. Bottom will have the aqua flow sensor and putty splitter there also. Going to look sweet with Optimus Fittings and 3080TI GPU Block. Internally two Koolance QD4 and on the external radiator, the two existing Koolance QD3.
> 
> Designing my loop in manor I can easily remove the top two radiators without draining. The reservoir/d5 pump has the drain valve so it means i can change parts fairly easily and don't need to do full drain. External rad connects to system through the QD3's (one on the G1/4 PCIE Bracket and other on on the side mounted GTR360. If i choice not use the external radiator, just need to hook up the QDC end on the PCIE bracket to the matching end on the side mounted GTR360.
> 
> I wish i got commission but nope all out of own pocket. Also wish i could drill holes to mount the AQ6LT but i ain't taking the risk of damaging the caselabs in any manor now.


She's a big girl. Looking good!


----------



## poah

MakubeX said:


> Kudos to the Optimus block (combined with the derb8uer custom mount) for taking on over 200W without breaking 90C (in ~74F room temp). And this wasn't just a spike, this screenshot was taken after 4.5 hrs of Prime95.


what have you done to get 200W on a 3900x and why 4.5hr of prime 95?

what p95 version?


----------



## MakubeX

poah said:


> what have you done to get 200W on a 3900x and why 4.5hr of prime 95?
> 
> what p95 version?


I'm not sure what setting did it but, I did have CPU Vcore and Vcore SOC set to Turbo. I also had to set the Vcore to 1.337 to get it prime stable. I also had VRM Phase control to high performance. I was running prime version 298b6.

The why, because from my experience, once I reach 8+ hrs of prime blend without errors, my system remains rock solid.


----------



## poah

MakubeX said:


> I'm not sure what setting did it but, I did have CPU Vcore and Vcore SOC set to Turbo. I also had to set the Vcore to 1.337 to get it prime stable. I also had VRM Phase control to high performance. I was running prime version 298b6.
> 
> The why, because from my experience, once I reach 8+ hrs of prime blend without errors, my system remains rock solid.


what frequency?

Just ran p95 29.8 and adjusted my PBO settings to get 200w. hit a max of 74c and fluctuated between 71-74c on small ffts. 

That's with 2x360x30mm rads D5 pump and 6x arctic p12 fans. block is a bykski CPU-XPR-AM-V2.


----------



## MakubeX

poah said:


> what frequency?
> 
> 
> 
> Just ran p95 29.8 and adjusted my PBO settings to get 200w. hit a max of 74c and fluctuated between 71-74c on small ffts.
> 
> 
> 
> That's with 2x360x30mm rads D5 pump and 6x arctic p12 fans. block is a bykski CPU-XPR-AM-V2.


Nothing crazy. I had a per ccx OC but the highest one was just 43.25GHz.

Wow, you got really good temps. What vcore were you using? What room temp?


----------



## asdf893

I'm thinking about trying the AMD foundation block in acrylic + black AL + raw copper. Has Optimus offered any discounts lately and have they fixed the weird mounting design?


----------



## MakubeX

asdf893 said:


> I'm thinking about trying the AMD foundation block in acrylic + black AL + raw copper. Has Optimus offered any discounts lately and have they fixed the weird mounting design?


That's the exact model I got. I posted a pic a few posts above and in the gallery thread if want to see what it looks like mounted (hint: sexy).


----------



## poah

MakubeX said:


> Nothing crazy. I had a per ccx OC but the highest one was just 43.25GHz.
> 
> Wow, you got really good temps. What vcore were you using? What room temp?


about 19-20 on the room temp and frequency was low 4150 using pbo not a manual overclock. same wattage as you but less volts. I've not tried setting a per ccx OC rather than keeping the PBO limits in check. I normally get around 4200-4300 in games and about 4150-4200 in video rendering. temps are around 67-68 in a R20 run hitting 4150 on most cores with 4175 on a couple (7433 score).


----------



## MakubeX

poah said:


> about 19-20 on the room temp and frequency was low 4150 using pbo not a manual overclock. same wattage as you but less volts. I've not tried setting a per ccx OC rather than keeping the PBO limits in check. I normally get around 4200-4300 in games and about 4150-4200 in video rendering. temps are around 67-68 in a R20 run hitting 4150 on most cores with 4175 on a couple.


Oh I see. That makes sense then.


----------



## poah

MakubeX said:


> Oh I see. That makes sense then.


200W which is the important number. 

what have you set in bios and I'll replicate that.


----------



## MakubeX

poah said:


> 200W which is the important number.
> 
> 
> 
> what have you set in bios and I'll replicate that.


That's one important number. Room temp is also very important.

I updated my BIOS this morning plus I just installed the 3900XT so the BIOS settings got reset. I'll see what I can remember and let you know. You can start with what I previously posted.


----------



## poah

MakubeX said:


> That's one important number. Room temp is also very important.
> 
> I updated my BIOS this morning plus I just installed the 3900XT so the BIOS settings got reset. I'll see what I can remember and let you know. You can start with what I previously posted.



Room is only about 4c cooler so still a good 10C cooler


----------



## MakubeX

poah said:


> Room is only about 4c cooler so still a good 10C cooler


Right. It's not the only factor but it's a very important one.


----------



## Keith Myers

asdf893 said:


> I'm thinking about trying the AMD foundation block in acrylic + black AL + raw copper. Has Optimus offered any discounts lately and have they fixed the weird mounting design?


That's the version I got. I was shipped the updated mounting studs and thumbnuts a couple of weeks ago. They just thread into the stock AM4 backplate. I think that is what they are shipping as standard now for new orders.


----------



## MakubeX

Keith Myers said:


> That's the version I got. I was shipped the updated mounting studs and thumbnuts a couple of weeks ago. They just thread into the stock AM4 backplate. I think that is what they are shipping as standard now for new orders.


You'd think so but I got my block last week and got nothing for the back of the board. I just received the 4 threads and 4 thumb screw caps. Luckily I didn't need anything else. I might still ask for it in case I ever do.


----------



## Keith Myers

MakubeX said:


> You'd think so but I got my block last week and got nothing for the back of the board. I just received the 4 threads and 4 thumb screw caps. Luckily I didn't need anything else. I might still ask for it in case I ever do.


What else were you expecting to receive? The provided studs thread directly into the stock AMD AM4 backplate. Nothing else is needed.


----------



## MakubeX

Keith Myers said:


> What else were you expecting to receive? The provided studs thread directly into the stock AMD AM4 backplate. Nothing else is needed.


They said they were shipping additional mounting hardware. Even the instructions show some nuts that go on the back of the board. Are the studs the improved mounting hardware?


----------



## asdf893

MakubeX said:


> That's the exact model I got. I posted a pic a few posts above and in the gallery thread if want to see what it looks like mounted (hint: sexy).


looks great but what is that extra hardware? Like, the silver screws in the center of the black thumbscrews? And has optimus address any of the mounting hardware complaints that I see earlier in this thread?

Also I don't know where the gallery is.


----------



## asdf893

Keith Myers said:


> That's the version I got. I was shipped the updated mounting studs and thumbnuts a couple of weeks ago. They just thread into the stock AM4 backplate. I think that is what they are shipping as standard now for new orders.


OK then I guess that's addressed  How long from payment to receipt for you?


----------



## MakubeX

asdf893 said:


> looks great but what is that extra hardware? Like, the silver screws in the center of the black thumbscrews? And has optimus address any of the mounting hardware complaints that I see earlier in this thread?
> 
> 
> 
> Also I don't know where the gallery is.


In that pic, I'm using the der8auer custom water block mount for Ryzen.

Watercooling gallery: https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...-club-picture-gallery-11036.html#post28556546


----------



## Keith Myers

MakubeX said:


> They said they were shipping additional mounting hardware. Even the instructions show some nuts that go on the back of the board. Are the studs the improved mounting hardware?


The nuts on the back of the board were the original fixing method. You had to remove and lose the backplate to install the block. Enough whining from the forum participants convinced Optimus to just produce studs that thread into the standard AM4 backplate. So the original studs and nuts are superfluous now.


----------



## Keith Myers

asdf893 said:


> OK then I guess that's addressed  How long from payment to receipt for you?


I ordered two AM4 Foundation blocks separated by a couple of months. Only took 5 days from order to receipt. The TR block OTOH was a pre-order and took six months more or less.


----------



## MakubeX

Keith Myers said:


> The nuts on the back of the board were the original fixing method. You had to remove and lose the backplate to install the block. Enough whining from the forum participants convinced Optimus to just produce studs that thread into the standard AM4 backplate. So the original studs and nuts are superfluous now.


Oh, gotcha. Thanks for clarifying.


----------



## Thebc2

Going on a week now waiting for my intel foundation block. Only thing I need to start the build. The struggle is real


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## zGunBLADEz

MakubeX said:


> Any pics out there?


old pic, right now is full of star wars lego mini figures that i start buying compulsively but have a few upgrades for it a new spinner to get rid of that old fella "green" 12v to 24v step up for the d5 an 12v to 5v stepdown to add some argb lights and a smaller relay for on/off as the one i currently have is a modded one that is used for christmas trees lol.. XD and some quick disconnects i got and some grills i got in clearance from frozencpu that need some modding.. still looking for a decent priced top for dual d5s but it aint buying a new one.. have some spares in here to give them some use.. 

The mora3 also have some upgrades waiting for him as well and that 12v to 24v step up with pwn controller as well... finally find a decent sized step up to 24v that aint that big so it can be hidden


----------



## MakubeX

zGunBLADEz said:


> old pic, right now is full of star wars lego mini figures that i start buying compulsively but have a few upgrades for it a new spinner to get rid of that old fella "green" 12v to 24v step up for the d5 an 12v to 5v stepdown to add some lights and a smaller relay for on/off XD and some quick disconnects i got and some grills i got in cleareance from frozencpu that need some modding..


Sexy stuff


----------



## zGunBLADEz

MakubeX said:


> Sexy stuff


i dont trade that for nothing i turn that baby up and temps just go down like it aint crap .. i like cramping hardware into cases that you wont believe...

now picture 3x240s, 7980xe+vrms+2x1080tis on his own d5+reservoir all hard tubed with quick disconnect in top of it... i can run her without the outside rad that was the idea from the get go..

theres 9x120mm (well 1x is a 140mm with 120mm mountings) fans in that build believe it or not.


----------



## LZRD15

Wow, well this was unexpected. Finally ready to install my Optimus Absolute Threadripper 3+ CPU Block and the sticker protecting the polished cold plate has completely stuck to the copper and WILL NOT come off. Got some of the edges peeled off (serious discoloration of the copper underneath where the label was -- photo attached), but that's all. I’ve tried just about everything (Goo Gone Adhesive remover, Acetone, White Vinegar).

Really weird. Back in mid-May when I originally received my Optimus Threadripper block I had peeled up part of the sticker's edge to inspect that amazing polished surface, but then curled it back and returned to the box for later installation. Box has never left my home, and temperature has always been a stable 70 degrees, so just can’t figure out why that sticker would adhere to the copper that way. Regardless, it’s REALLY on there and not coming off.

Been building custom water-cooling loops since 2003 -- NEVER seen anything like this.

Reached out to Matt at Optimus for a replacement cold plate... but you know how that goes. Takes those cats a week or more to even respond. Damn, this is frustrating...


----------



## Master Chicken

LZRD15 said:


> Wow, well this was unexpected.


That IS nasty. Heat gun maybe? Going to leave a mess though.


----------



## skupples

optimus trying to pinch ALL the pennies, using laser jet paper backed stickers.

jokes.


----------



## 98S4

LZRD15 said:


> Wow, well this was unexpected.


Almost looks like some remnants of blue paste on there if you zoom in. Are you sure it wasn't mounted accidentally with the sticker still on?


----------



## ThrashZone

LZRD15 said:


> Wow, well this was unexpected. Finally ready to install my Optimus Absolute Threadripper 3+ CPU Block and the sticker protecting the polished cold plate has completely stuck to the copper and WILL NOT come off. Got some of the edges peeled off (serious discoloration of the copper underneath where the label was -- photo attached), but that's all. I’ve tried just about everything (Goo Gone Adhesive remover, Acetone, White Vinegar).
> 
> Really weird. Back in mid-May when I originally received my Optimus Threadripper block I had peeled up part of the sticker's edge to inspect that amazing polished surface, but then curled it back and returned to the box for later installation. Box has never left my home, and temperature has always been a stable 70 degrees, so just can’t figure out why that sticker would adhere to the copper that way. Regardless, it’s REALLY on there and not coming off.
> 
> Been building custom water-cooling loops since 2003 -- NEVER seen anything like this.
> 
> Reached out to Matt at Optimus for a replacement cold plate... but you know how that goes. Takes those cats a week or more to even respond. Damn, this is frustrating...


Hi,
90% Alcohol bath ?


----------



## LZRD15

98S4 said:


> Almost looks like some remnants of blue paste on there if you zoom in. Are you sure it wasn't mounted accidentally with the sticker still on?


Yeah, I knew someone would question whether I mounted this or not with the sticker still on, especially considering the discoloration where the sticker had been attached. Guarantee you that isn't remnants of blue paste, and this block has absolutely, positively NEVER been used. Definitely intend on returning this to Optimus so they can verify that.

C'mon man...


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
A lot of heat got to it none the less to react like that.


----------



## LZRD15

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> A lot of heat got to it none the less to react like that.


You'd think so, but I can guarantee you no heat got to it. That water block sat in it's box unused in my home office at a constant temperature of 70 degrees from mid-May until now.


----------



## ThrashZone

LZRD15 said:


> You'd think so, but I can guarantee you no heat got to it. That water block sat in it's box unused in my home office at a constant temperature of 70 degrees from mid-May until now.


Hi,
Try alcohol bath yet seems faster then waiting for a new.


----------



## LZRD15

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Try alcohol bath yet seems faster then waiting for a new.


Thanks much for the suggestion. Actually, was the very first thing I tried. Let soak in 91% Isopropyl Alcohol overnight and it had no effect. Just bizarre...


----------



## ThrashZone

LZRD15 said:


> Thanks much for the suggestion. Actually, was the very first thing I tried. Let soak in 91% Isopropyl Alcohol overnight and it had no effect. Just bizarre...


Hi,
Only other thing is acetone shouldn't hurt the copper.
Yep bizarre to say the least.


----------



## CAL V

Keith Myers said:


> That's the version I got. I was shipped the updated mounting studs and thumbnuts a couple of weeks ago. They just thread into the stock AM4 backplate. I think that is what they are shipping as standard now for new orders.


Hi Keith, are you referring to the thumbnuts that mounts the block to the motherboard? Meaning there's no extra nuts that go to the back of the board, only 4 studs and 4 thumbnuts as mounting hardware and no extra screws given?

I have the old mounting hardware, I'd imagine this will cause some confusion as some decide to sell their block in the future.


----------



## Keith Myers

CAL V said:


> Hi Keith, are you referring to the thumbnuts that mounts the block to the motherboard? Meaning there's no extra nuts that go to the back of the board, only 4 studs and 4 thumbnuts as mounting hardware and no extra screws given?
> 
> I have the old mounting hardware, I'd imagine this will cause some confusion as some decide to sell their block in the future.


Yes, the original hardware was 4 studs and 4 small metric nuts that held the studs in the AM4 socket holes vacated by removing the stock AMD backplate. No longer needed now. If you have the original hardware, all you have to do is send an email to https://www.overclock.net/forum/members/625918-optimus-wc.html and ask for the new studs and thumbnuts. Free if you live in the U.S.
Original forum post is here. https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-post28509374.html


----------



## MakubeX

Can someone confirm if this is right?


----------



## 98S4

MakubeX said:


> Can someone confirm if this is right?[/IMG]


That is correct.


----------



## MakubeX

98S4 said:


> That is correct.


Thanks but also damn. I didn't think so but I was hoping I had it wrong. I'm having trouble cooling my 3900X and 3900XT and can't figure out what the main issue is.


----------



## 98S4

MakubeX said:


> Thanks but also damn. I didn't think so but I was hoping I had it wrong. I'm having trouble cooling my 3900X and 3900XT and can't figure out what the main issue is.


What numbers are you seeing and what are the loop specs? This thread is probably the largest collection of people with experience on these blocks. I'm sure some of us can try to help.


----------



## Ricey20

LZRD15 said:


> Wow, well this was unexpected. Finally ready to install my Optimus Absolute Threadripper 3+ CPU Block and the sticker protecting the polished cold plate has completely stuck to the copper and WILL NOT come off. Got some of the edges peeled off (serious discoloration of the copper underneath where the label was -- photo attached), but that's all. I’ve tried just about everything (Goo Gone Adhesive remover, Acetone, White Vinegar).
> 
> Really weird. Back in mid-May when I originally received my Optimus Threadripper block I had peeled up part of the sticker's edge to inspect that amazing polished surface, but then curled it back and returned to the box for later installation. Box has never left my home, and temperature has always been a stable 70 degrees, so just can’t figure out why that sticker would adhere to the copper that way. Regardless, it’s REALLY on there and not coming off.
> 
> Been building custom water-cooling loops since 2003 -- NEVER seen anything like this.
> 
> Reached out to Matt at Optimus for a replacement cold plate... but you know how that goes. Takes those cats a week or more to even respond. Damn, this is frustrating...


Yea it's weird. I actually had this happen on an EK Phoenix kit that I left in the box for 6 months. I left it soaking in warm water and it eventually came off in pieces with some effort. Part of the copper plate underneath was discolored and looked like oxidation or corrosion.


----------



## poah

MakubeX said:


> Thanks but also damn. I didn't think so but I was hoping I had it wrong. I'm having trouble cooling my 3900X and 3900XT and can't figure out what the main issue is.


what is your set up and what are your bios settings


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, updated AMD mounting instructions. Let me know if you see any issues 

And all blocks for a while now have received the new mounting that uses the backplate. The old mounting was fine, but the 10,000 emails asking for backplate-compatible mounting pushed us over the edge


----------



## cluster edge

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, updated AMD mounting instructions. Let me know if you see any issues
> 
> And all blocks for a while now have received the new mounting that uses the backplate. The old mounting was fine, but the 10,000 emails asking for backplate-compatible mounting pushed us over the edge


Last line - very tight BY HAND ONLY
Just for reasons xD


----------



## MakubeX

98S4 said:


> What numbers are you seeing and what are the loop specs? This thread is probably the largest collection of people with experience on these blocks. I'm sure some of us can try to help.


My loop at the moment: res > dual ek pump > mobo chipset > GPU > 240 rad pull > CPU > 360 rad push/pull > res. I'm using Thermal Grizzly Carbonaut liquid metal on both the CPU and GPU.

360 rad: EK 360 XE
240 rad: EK 240 XE
pump: EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial
gpu block: AquaComputer Kryographics
chipset block: EK-Quantum Momentum
res: Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 100 V2

Using distilled water and silver coils. No additives.

Yesterday I switched the fans again so now my current config is:
- bottom 3 case fans and the 240 rad at the top as intake
- 360 rad as exhaust

So far I've also tried:
- bottom case fans and 360 as intake; 240 exhaust
- 360 rad intake; 240 rad and bottom case fans as exhaust

I've tried all kinds of fan configurations and I'm fairly certain it's not an airflow issue because (with my current config) I removed the side panel while the CPU was under load (p95) and the temps didn't change.

I'm using a fan curve for the fans and the pump (different curves). I even tried capping the pump at 75% in case it was pumping too much heat into the loop being that flow doesn't look to be an issue.

I've also tried remounting the block. I've used the der8auer custom mount and the stock Optimus mount (which I'm currently am using). No real difference.



poah said:


> what is your set up and what are your bios settings


This is what I have right now. These are moderate settings so the temps are not as bad as before where I was reaching 90 but still, I think I should be doing better:



Spoiler



This is 10min on p95 small ffts. Note the big temperature gap between CCD1 and CCD2 in HWInfo.







View attachment bios1.BMP

View attachment bios2.BMP

View attachment bios3.BMP

View attachment bios4.BMP

View attachment bios5.BMP


----------



## poah

Your SOC is high so that's going to make the chip hot plus your load line calibration. 

I'd reduce your ram settings as well - guessing you went manual to get the most out of it?

I'm running my voltage at -0.0750 and my PBO settings are PPT 235W; TDC 120 A; EDC 161 A; 4x voltage scalar; +400 frequency

I get 4150-4175mhz running R20 with 68C max & 25C ambient just there. 182W 3.5 difference on cores

Your overclock isn't very efficient. 

I also run my ram below the very max - all voltages on auto except for DIMM " 1.48v. My timings are quite tight 1833 fabric frequency. I have my CPPC and CPPC prefered cores set to on or active not auto. 


2x360 with a 140mm D5 ek unit and arctic P12 fans

pump ----> 360 rad -----> 360 rad -----> CPU block -----> GPU block ---- pump


----------



## Keith Myers

Bad mount. Shouldn't be that big a difference between CCD0 and CCD1. I have 0.5° C. difference between CCD0 and CCD1 under y-cruncher tests 10,11,12,13 and 16. Max temp under SFT test at 83° C. at 4250Mhz all-core clock at 1.25V on my 3950X.


----------



## MakubeX

Keith Myers said:


> Bad mount. Shouldn't be that big a difference between CCD0 and CCD1. I have 0.5° C. difference between CCD0 and CCD1 under y-cruncher tests 10,11,12,13 and 16. Max temp under SFT test at 83° C. at 4250Mhz all-core clock at 1.25V on my 3950X.


It really isn't. I've remounted this thing multiple times and I've used two different sets of hardware. It's either the CPU IHS (even though it's soldered) or the block. I'm going to lap the block and see if it does anything.


----------



## MakubeX

poah said:


> Your SOC is high so that's going to make the chip hot plus your load line calibration.
> 
> I'd reduce your ram settings as well - guessing you went manual to get the most out of it?
> 
> I'm running my voltage at -0.0750 and my PBO settings are PPT 235W; TDC 120 A; EDC 161 A; 4x voltage scalar; +400 frequency
> 
> I get 4150-4175mhz running R20 with 68C max & 25C ambient just there. 182W 3.5 difference on cores
> 
> Your overclock isn't very efficient.
> 
> I also run my ram below the very max - all voltages on auto except for DIMM " 1.48v. My timings are quite tight 1833 fabric frequency. I have my CPPC and CPPC prefered cores set to on or active not auto.
> 
> 
> 2x360 with a 140mm D5 ek unit and arctic P12 fans
> 
> pump ----> 360 rad -----> 360 rad -----> CPU block -----> GPU block ---- pump


I'm now running an SOC of 1v and even though it makes sense that it would help the temps, unfortunately it didn't, they are still the same (about 83C avg on p95 small fft). I'm certainly not going too low to sacrifice the 1900 IF.

Don't worry about the OC, this isn't a permanent OC. I'm just starting low to run some tests.

The RAM is not affecting the temps. I'm running it at 1.4v 3800MHz to maintain a stable 1:1 with IF. That's not even that high of a voltage for the RAM but still, lowering it doesn't change temps.

I think the issue is mainly that one hot CCD. The other one stays in the 70s but that one hot one can be up to 8C hotter than the good one. I hope lapping the block works because I really rather not have to lap the CPU.


----------



## asdf893

Maybe the optimus block is very unflat?


----------



## MakubeX

asdf893 said:


> Maybe the optimus block is very unflat?


It is. Hard to capture with my phone but it's definitely bowed.


----------



## skupples

i believe optimus would tell you that doesn't mean anything, as its not clamped.


----------



## MakubeX

skupples said:


> i believe optimus would tell you that doesn't mean anything, as its not clamped.


Well, something is causing one of the CCD to be up to 8C hotter than the other. It's not the mount so this seems like a very good candidate.


----------



## skupples

does said hot sector change when you rotate the block?


I assume your previous block had perfectly flat core temps then?


usually one part of the chip is gonna be hotter than the others.


----------



## MakubeX

skupples said:


> does said hot sector change when you rotate the block?
> 
> 
> I assume your previous block had perfectly flat core temps then?
> 
> 
> usually one part of the chip is gonna be hotter than the others.


I haven't tried the other block on this chip. I've thought about it but I didn't want to deal with cleaning it again (liquid metal), . I've mounted this same block with different mounts, though.

I could've tried rotating the block but I don't think it would've helped because the bow is from side to side, so if I rotate it 180 degrees then it will end up with the same problem. Too late now. I'm already lapping it.

I understand one core is normally a bit hotter than the other but this is quite a big delta.


----------



## Section31

MakubeX said:


> skupples said:
> 
> 
> 
> does said hot sector change when you rotate the block?
> 
> 
> I assume your previous block had perfectly flat core temps then?
> 
> 
> usually one part of the chip is gonna be hotter than the others.
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't tried the other block on this chip. I've thought about it but I didn't want to deal with cleaning it again (liquid metal), /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif. I've mounted this same block with different mounts, though.
> 
> I could've tried rotating the block but I don't think it would've helped because the bow is from side to side, so if I rotate it 180 degrees then it will end up with the same problem. Too late now. I'm already lapping it.
> 
> I understand one core is normally a bit hotter than the other but this is quite a big delta.
Click to expand...

Silicon Lottery Loser. I had one with your issues. I managed to get amazon to send me new one. New one i got was less than 1 degree difference

You can do what blackzaru did and sand down the cpu lid. He got it down a lot too.


----------



## blackzaru

Section31 said:


> Silicon Lottery Loser. I had one with your issues. I managed to get amazon to send me new one. New one i got was less than 1 degree difference
> 
> You can do what blackzaru did and sand down the cpu lid. He got it down a lot too.


By a lot, he means that lapping (wet sanding with 400, 600, 800, 1000, 2000, 2500, and 3000 grit) my 3950X resulted in a chiplet to chiplet delta that averages 0.5 degrees or less after several hours of stress-testing. (average given by HWINFO64) Side note: I'm also the guy running the dual 360mm EK XE (60mm thick) radiators with pressure optimized fans... So the cooling power is also at its peak to achieve that.


----------



## asdf893

You could do Optimus' most recent reputation in this thread a favor and rotate the block and also try another block and see what happens to the temp delta


----------



## MakubeX

Section31 said:


> Silicon Lottery Loser. I had one with your issues. I managed to get amazon to send me new one. New one i got was less than 1 degree difference
> 
> You can do what blackzaru did and sand down the cpu lid. He got it down a lot too.


I think you're right. I think I will just return my CPU and get a replacement.

I lapped the block a bit but it takes a lot to undo the convex shape Optimus builds in, which is probably for the best, so I don't intend to make it completely flat. I'll test it one more time and then probably return the CPU.


----------



## ThrashZone

MakubeX said:


> I think you're right. I think I will just return my CPU and get a replacement.
> 
> *I lapped the block a bit but it takes a lot to undo the convex shape Optimus builds in*, which is probably for the best, so I don't intend to make it completely flat. I'll test it one more time and then probably return the CPU.


Hi,
Show which part you lapped.
The bottom of the cold plate should not be lapped said to be very thin and could crack under tightening pressure

The bow is created by the inside of the body.
This is what I lapped to fit my 9940x better and just a little bit obvious fro the sandpaper scratches and brass showing.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC I just want to say thank you again for not adding RGB to any of your products. Been spending to much time on Reddit and I have a RGB headache. All using the same case, same distro plate and everything RGB. Looks so goddamn ugly.
I really need to stop going there.


----------



## asdf893

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC I just want to say thank you again for not adding RGB to any of your products. Been spending to much time on Reddit and I have a RGB headache. All using the same case, same distro plate and everything RGB. Looks so goddamn ugly.
> I really need to stop going there.


I would like an RGB option.


----------



## Shawnb99

asdf893 said:


> I would like an RGB option.


RGB are the devils lights. Let Optimus stay pure. Acrylic on the blocks is far enough. I'm not even a fan of that. I love me some big hunk of metal like the Signature


----------



## nowarranty

MakubeX said:


> Well, something is causing one of the CCD to be up to 8C hotter than the other. It's not the mount so this seems like a very good candidate.


could be a dozen factors
when i change my offset settings for overclock i can see 4-8C variance between chiplets, one ccd seems to boost 100-150mhz over the other too.
i tried mounting my own block many different times, different paste from pea method to x method. rotated my block.
changing ppt values i saw this same type of variance.

closest i've gotten both is 4degrees. i took it as one chiplet is stronger than the other, will always perform more, consume more watts, reach higher frequencies, and that no block, block orientation, thermal compound, or anything i could do would make even heat distribution among both. in the end got better temps playing around with voltage offsets than i did with anything mount or paste related.


----------



## MakubeX

nowarranty said:


> could be a dozen factors
> when i change my offset settings for overclock i can see 4-8C variance between chiplets, one ccd seems to boost 100-150mhz over the other too.
> i tried mounting my own block many different times, different paste from pea method to x method. rotated my block.
> changing ppt values i saw this same type of variance.
> 
> closest i've gotten both is 4degrees. i took it as one chiplet is stronger than the other, will always perform more, consume more watts, reach higher frequencies, and that no block, block orientation, thermal compound, or anything i could do would make even heat distribution among both. in the end got better temps playing around with voltage offsets than i did with anything mount or paste related.


Absolutely. However, with having all cores at max load (p95 small ffts) and all capped at the same frequency, I don't think the delta should be that high. Like Section31 said, I believe I just got unlucky with this chip. But we'll see, I just ordered another 3900XT. Should be here tomorrow.


----------



## MakubeX

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Show which part you lapped.
> 
> The bottom of the cold plate should not be lapped said to be very thin and could crack under tightening pressure
> 
> 
> 
> The bow is created by the inside of the body.
> 
> This is what I lapped to fit my 9940x better and just a little bit obvious fro the sandpaper scratches and brass showing.


I did lap the bottom. Don't worry, it's not nearly thin enough to crack by just hand lapping it. It's already installed so I can't show you but, I didn't completely flattened it. Like I mentioned before, it would've taken a lot of lapping to get rid of the concave shape, plus it's normally a good thing for it to be a bit concave. I just worried it was too much. In the end, temps didn't change one bit. XD

I might try a different block that works well with Ryzen 3000 for comparison.


----------



## Section31

MakubeX said:


> I did lap the bottom. Don't worry, it's not nearly thin enough to crack by just hand lapping it. It's already installed so I can't show you but, I didn't completely flattened it. Like I mentioned before, it would've taken a lot of lapping to get rid of the concave shape, plus it's normally a good thing for it to be a bit concave. I just worried it was too much. In the end, temps didn't change one bit. XD
> 
> I might try a different block that works well with Ryzen 3000 for comparison.


You probably spent a lot of time, easiest is just replace the CPU imo. Don't try arguing with AMD, they won't RMA the CPU for you.


----------



## MakubeX

Section31 said:


> You probably spent a lot of time, easiest is just replace the CPU imo. Don't try arguing with AMD, they won't RMA the CPU for you.


Yeah, that's what I'm doing. I already ordered a replacement CPU. I still wanted to lap the block and test to see if it made a difference. The more data the better. I may also try more blocks just to compare since I find it a bit difficult to find comparisons between blocks on 3900X/XT or 3950X.


----------



## Section31

MakubeX said:


> Yeah, that's what I'm doing. I already ordered a replacement CPU. I still wanted to lap the block and test to see if it made a difference. The more data the better. I may also try more blocks just to compare since I find it a bit difficult to find comparisons between blocks on 3900X/XT or 3950X.


The 3950X generally had the better silicon at the time so that's why its per CCX temps difference were minimal (but i got an dud).


----------



## poah

Given that your are using LM maybe your contact with the block isn’t as good as it would be with normal TIM.


----------



## bbuchan8

Hi guys,

New member here, but after reading every single post in this thread I decided to purchase an Optimus Foundation AMD Nickel waterblock a few weeks ago in the search of better performance on my new 3800X build.

I was worried with the lead times and was expecting a long wait, but to my suprise it was dispatched within a week or two and I had it only a few days after that.

It was replacing an EK Quantum Velocity WB in my build and when I took it out of the box I was very impressed with the finish. Build quality was excellent, and the cold plate was an absolutely perfect pristine mirror finish - best I've seen on any WB I've purchased before.

I installed it in my rig using THermal Grizzly Kryonaut paste, and after a few hours of testing was unhappy with the temps so decided to check the spread and do a remount.

Take a look at the damage it did to the brand new WB in only a few hours! Significant pitting and scratching, which also happened to the CPU IHS.

Pretty pissed off to say the least.. brand new premium WB with a perfect finish that is now damaged after a few hours of using some ****ty paste. Must be a bad batch from Thermal Grizzly but I sent an email to their support 2 weeks ago now and have had not even a single reply or acknowledgement from them, even after multiple follow ups from my end. 

Pretty pissed off with this. Thinking about maybe ordering a new cold plate.. I'm guessing the pitting does not affect temps that much but it just irks me knowing my brand new (and damn expensive) WB is like that. 

I ended up replacing the Kryonaut with CM MasterGel Maker paste and I am pretty happy with the performance now, after some testing it looks to have dropped my temps by around 4-5degC over the EK Velocity which I am very happy with.

https://imgur.com/a/iK4gdgm


----------



## ThrashZone

bbuchan8 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> New member here, but after reading every single post in this thread I decided to purchase an Optimus Foundation AMD Nickel waterblock a few weeks ago in the search of better performance on my new 3800X build.
> 
> I was worried with the lead times and was expecting a long wait, but to my suprise it was dispatched within a week or two and I had it only a few days after that.
> 
> It was replacing an EK Quantum Velocity WB in my build and when I took it out of the box I was very impressed with the finish. Build quality was excellent, and the cold plate was an absolutely perfect pristine mirror finish - best I've seen on any WB I've purchased before.
> 
> I installed it in my rig using THermal Grizzly Kryonaut paste, and after a few hours of testing was unhappy with the temps so decided to check the spread and do a remount.
> 
> Take a look at the damage it did to the brand new WB in only a few hours! Significant pitting and scratching, which also happened to the CPU IHS.
> 
> Pretty pissed off to say the least.. brand new premium WB with a perfect finish that is now damaged after a few hours of using some ****ty paste. Must be a bad batch from Thermal Grizzly but I sent an email to their support 2 weeks ago now and have had not even a single reply or acknowledgement from them, even after multiple follow ups from my end.
> 
> Pretty pissed off with this. Thinking about maybe ordering a new cold plate.. I'm guessing the pitting does not affect temps that much but it just irks me knowing my brand new (and damn expensive) WB is like that.
> 
> I ended up replacing the Kryonaut with CM MasterGel Maker paste and I am pretty happy with the performance now, after some testing it looks to have dropped my temps by around 4-5degC over the EK Velocity which I am very happy with.
> 
> https://imgur.com/a/iK4gdgm


Hi,
Defective kryonaut common old batch and personally I stopped using the over priced crap after scratching copper cold plates 
Nickle would be garbage now.


----------



## D-EJ915

Mine got scratched up a bit by some kryonaut but not quite as bad as yours. I used some gc-extreme again and it still works fine.


----------



## KedarWolf

bbuchan8 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> New member here, but after reading every single post in this thread I decided to purchase an Optimus Foundation AMD Nickel waterblock a few weeks ago in the search of better performance on my new 3800X build.
> 
> I was worried with the lead times and was expecting a long wait, but to my suprise it was dispatched within a week or two and I had it only a few days after that.
> 
> It was replacing an EK Quantum Velocity WB in my build and when I took it out of the box I was very impressed with the finish. Build quality was excellent, and the cold plate was an absolutely perfect pristine mirror finish - best I've seen on any WB I've purchased before.
> 
> I installed it in my rig using THermal Grizzly Kryonaut paste, and after a few hours of testing was unhappy with the temps so decided to check the spread and do a remount.
> 
> Take a look at the damage it did to the brand new WB in only a few hours! Significant pitting and scratching, which also happened to the CPU IHS.
> 
> Pretty pissed off to say the least.. brand new premium WB with a perfect finish that is now damaged after a few hours of using some ****ty paste. Must be a bad batch from Thermal Grizzly but I sent an email to their support 2 weeks ago now and have had not even a single reply or acknowledgement from them, even after multiple follow ups from my end.
> 
> Pretty pissed off with this. Thinking about maybe ordering a new cold plate.. I'm guessing the pitting does not affect temps that much but it just irks me knowing my brand new (and damn expensive) WB is like that.
> 
> I ended up replacing the Kryonaut with CM MasterGel Maker paste and I am pretty happy with the performance now, after some testing it looks to have dropped my temps by around 4-5degC over the EK Velocity which I am very happy with.
> 
> https://imgur.com/a/iK4gdgm


I swear by MasterGel Maker, it performs a few C better that Kryonaut at the very least and doesn't scratch my coldplate or IHS on my CPU.


----------



## NewType88

what do you use @ThrashZone ?


----------



## poah

bbuchan8 said:


> I installed it in my rig using THermal Grizzly Kryonaut paste, and after a few hours of testing was unhappy with the temps so decided to check the spread and do a remount.
> 
> Take a look at the damage it did to the brand new WB in only a few hours! Significant pitting and scratching, which also happened to the CPU IHS.
> 
> Pretty pissed off to say the least.. brand new premium WB with a perfect finish that is now damaged after a few hours of using some ****ty paste. Must be a bad batch from Thermal Grizzly but I sent an email to their support 2 weeks ago now and have had not even a single reply or acknowledgement from them, even after multiple follow ups from my end.


That paste is crap. why people continue to use it I don't know.


----------



## ThrashZone

NewType88 said:


> what do you use @ThrashZone ?


Hi,
NT-H1 primarily but also like MX4 2019 although the last tube was pretty runny 
Hydronaut isn't too bad but again if you can get it from that isn't price gouging that is.


----------



## Mxj1

bbuchan8 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> New member here, but after reading every single post in this thread I decided to purchase an Optimus Foundation AMD Nickel waterblock a few weeks ago in the search of better performance on my new 3800X build.
> 
> I was worried with the lead times and was expecting a long wait, but to my suprise it was dispatched within a week or two and I had it only a few days after that.
> 
> It was replacing an EK Quantum Velocity WB in my build and when I took it out of the box I was very impressed with the finish. Build quality was excellent, and the cold plate was an absolutely perfect pristine mirror finish - best I've seen on any WB I've purchased before.
> 
> I installed it in my rig using THermal Grizzly Kryonaut paste, and after a few hours of testing was unhappy with the temps so decided to check the spread and do a remount.
> 
> Take a look at the damage it did to the brand new WB in only a few hours! Significant pitting and scratching, which also happened to the CPU IHS.
> 
> Pretty pissed off to say the least.. brand new premium WB with a perfect finish that is now damaged after a few hours of using some ****ty paste. Must be a bad batch from Thermal Grizzly but I sent an email to their support 2 weeks ago now and have had not even a single reply or acknowledgement from them, even after multiple follow ups from my end.
> 
> Pretty pissed off with this. Thinking about maybe ordering a new cold plate.. I'm guessing the pitting does not affect temps that much but it just irks me knowing my brand new (and damn expensive) WB is like that.
> 
> I ended up replacing the Kryonaut with CM MasterGel Maker paste and I am pretty happy with the performance now, after some testing it looks to have dropped my temps by around 4-5degC over the EK Velocity which I am very happy with.


I used Kryonaut a couple years ago and moved on because of the price.

IMO, the best price/performance/consistency is MX-4 2019.

That being said, I would be surprised if you actually see a performance decrease using that same cold plate.


----------



## NewType88

Yeah I have only used noctuas stuff, but I also do not mount CPU and GPU's nearly as much as you mad lads do !


----------



## Mxj1

My Optimus block has been out and apart _many_ times. 

I recently had to disassemble and do some cleaning. I snapped a photo after cleaning and polishing the block.

Sure is a nice piece of equipment.


----------



## MakubeX

I've got my 2nd XT CPU and the delta between CCDs is practically exactly the same. So it could be the block. I just ordered the Retrofit Kit Socket AM4/3000 For my silver Cuplex Kryos from modmymods. We'll see what I get with that block. I'll report back once I get the kit.


----------



## Section31

I tried the new mounting screws provided by Optimus designed for amd am4 backplate. I would say there doesn’t appear any major difference per say. 

Its not like the other blocks manufacturer where the backplate is effectively held by the screws going into the backplate. You need the cpu block to hold the backplate in place.

I won’t have any testing results though for couple months. PC is in storage mode till the 3080TI/new rads come in.


----------



## garyd9

Section31 said:


> Its not like the other blocks manufacturer where the backplate is effectively held by the screws going into the backplate. You need the cpu block to hold the backplate in place.


That almost makes it sound like one of those installs that requires three hands: One to hold the backplate, one to hold the CPU block, and the third for the screw.


----------



## Section31

garyd9 said:


> That almost makes it sound like one of those installs that requires three hands: One to hold the backplate, one to hold the CPU block, and the third for the screw.


The usual two hands are enough. Just hold the backplate, mount the screws. Then use the hand mounting the screws to handle the cpu block


----------



## NewType88

Anyone know if they can make a custom block that is entirely copper ?


----------



## chuggz

NewType88 said:


> Anyone know if they can make a custom block that is entirely copper ?


Like with a copper top instead of plexi? It would be impossibly heavy. I think I asked and/or saw it mentioned somewhere deep in this thread. Even with the plexi top it's pretty dense and hefty.


----------



## NewType88

chuggz said:


> Like with a copper top instead of plexi? It would be impossibly heavy. I think I asked and/or saw it mentioned somewhere deep in this thread. Even with the plexi top it's pretty dense and hefty.


Right, I actually have an all copper block from heatkiller, so I figured optimus could do the same.


----------



## Keith Myers

NewType88 said:


> Anyone know if they can make a custom block that is entirely copper ?


Sure why not. The Heatkiller block as example. I have the AquaComputer Cuplex Kryos block in PVD/Silver. The PVD top part is just brass with the PVD coating. A very heavy block.


----------



## Keith Myers

garyd9 said:


> That almost makes it sound like one of those installs that requires three hands: One to hold the backplate, one to hold the CPU block, and the third for the screw.


My motherboard is mounted horizontally. I solved the backplate problem by just stuffing a wad of socks temporarily under the backplate to hold it against the motherboard while I secured the block and tightened the thumbnuts. Not that hard a problem to solve.


----------



## Shawnb99

NewType88 said:


> Right, I actually have an all copper block from heatkiller, so I figured optimus could do the same.


I'd go for that if I got the Signature fully copper. Would go great with my plan of all copper tubing.


----------



## NewType88

Shawnb99 said:


> I'd go for that if I got the Signature fully copper. Would go great with my plan of all copper tubing.



Oh for sure ! Ay, I haven't followed this thread attentively. What was the ETA on 3080 ti blocks ? I think I read they haven't even shipped 2080 ti blocks ?


----------



## blackzaru

NewType88 said:


> Oh for sure ! Ay, I haven't followed this thread attentively. What was the ETA on 3080 ti blocks ? I think I read they haven't even shipped 2080 ti blocks ?


Having an ETA on an accessory for a product that has yet to have a launch date would be pretty surprising to say the least. And no, no 2080Ti blocks released yet.


----------



## Section31

NewType88 said:


> Oh for sure ! Ay, I haven't followed this thread attentively. What was the ETA on 3080 ti blocks ? I think I read they haven't even shipped 2080 ti blocks ?


Jumping ahead again. Lets see what happens. If your going to 3080Ti, time to sell your 2080TI is now.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Jumping ahead again. Lets see what happens. If your going to 3080Ti, time to sell your 2080TI is now.


I'm tempted to sell mine now but knowing my luck the 3080TI's won't be out till end of the year at best and then who knows how long of a wait for a block.


----------



## skupples

i expect 3080ti/3090 stock to be limited, with prices way above msrp.  



i wonder who'll be taking pre-orders.


----------



## sakete

I just think it's hilarious the 3080ti might come out before the Optimus 2080ti Waterblock. I plan on getting the 3080ti, and will be ordering my block from Watercool instead, instead of waiting 3 years for Optimus to release theirs.

I otherwise do like the AM4 block I have from Optimus


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> i expect 3080ti/3090 stock to be limited, with prices way above msrp.
> 
> 
> 
> i wonder who'll be taking pre-orders.


Do what I always do. Order through Nvidia.com. I have done that for 1080TI and 2080TI and saves me the headache of ordering/waiting for Canadian retailers and searching nowinstock for who has stock. Costs are the same for ordering into canada as retailer and timeframe about the same. Just wake up early and order in first batch. Sell those 2080TI if you own them folks, you can buy an 3070/3080 and possibly come out on top cash wise and at least neutral cash wise and slight upgrade with 20% performance gain.


----------



## NewType88

blackzaru said:


> Having an ETA on an accessory for a product that has yet to have a launch date would be pretty surprising to say the least. And no, no 2080Ti blocks released yet.


I was expecting an answer like what watercool gave. Basically an expected timeline of when they get a sample and then a block made to ship.

I wonder what is taking so long to do a 2080ti block ? Pretty absurd.


----------



## Section31

NewType88 said:


> I was expecting an answer like what watercool gave. Basically an expected timeline of when they get a sample and then a block made to ship.
> 
> I wonder what is taking so long to do a 2080ti block ? Pretty absurd.


I think watercool even hasn't received there sample yet to work on.


----------



## NewType88

Section31 said:


> I think watercool even hasn't received there sample yet to work on.


Right, but they did tell us how it went down last year and what to expect this year. OF course things can change, but its still a better answer than nothing I think.


----------



## Hequaqua

Have a semi dumb question.....

Has anyone ever used car radiator flushing fluid to flush their rads?

Examples:

https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze...lush/bluedevil-radiator-flush-32oz/848324_0_0

https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze...estone-radiator-flush-cleaner-22oz/223022_0_0


----------



## ThrashZone

Hequaqua said:


> Have a semi dumb question.....
> 
> Has anyone ever used car radiator flushing fluid to flush their rads?
> 
> Examples:
> 
> https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze...lush/bluedevil-radiator-flush-32oz/848324_0_0
> 
> https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze...estone-radiator-flush-cleaner-22oz/223022_0_0


Hi,
Simply no just mayhems part 1 on radiators only and part 2 on all.


----------



## CAL V

I have this AMD Foundation block that has been sitting around since May. Decided to build my watercooling loop yesterday and saw this corrosion/oxidation mark under the sticker. 



I tried to clean it with 97% IPA, didn't change it one bit. I believe there's another owner of a threadripper block that had his sticker completely stuck on and also saw some corrosion/oxidation underneath just a few pages ago. The film feels very flexible and stretchy like car windscreen stickers and doesn't seem to have any glue on it, so I wonder what material on it caused this.


----------



## Hequaqua

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Simply no just mayhems part 1 on radiators only and part 2 on all.


May ask why not? Could it be that most car rads aluminum, therefore making these fluids ineffective?

Hard to find the Mayhem's kits....out of stock everywhere.

EDIT:



CAL V said:


> I have this AMD Foundation block that has been sitting around since May. Decided to build my watercooling loop yesterday and saw this corrosion/oxidation mark under the sticker.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to clean it with 97% IPA, didn't change it one bit. I believe there's another owner of a threadripper block that had his sticker completely stuck on and also saw some corrosion/oxidation underneath just a few pages ago. The film feels very flexible and stretchy like car windscreen stickers and doesn't seem to have any glue on it, so I wonder what material on it caused this.


I just use some polishing liquid on mine(used it on the lapped CPU too). Same that I use on my guitars.


----------



## Avacado

Hequaqua said:


> May ask why not? Could it be that most car rads aluminum, therefore making these fluids ineffective?
> 
> Hard to find the Mayhem's kits....out of stock everywhere.


It's almost like people don't try anymore or give up after one failed OOS website. 

Frozen CPU: https://www.frozencpu.com/products/...MI7f6r__6R6wIVUMDICh3g-ApPEAQYASABEgJUo_D_BwE
Fleabay: https://www.ebay.com/i/164220445310...MI7f6r__6R6wIVUMDICh3g-ApPEAQYAiABEgLqpPD_BwE
Aquatuning (>10 Available) https://www.aquatuning.us/thermal-p...MI7f6r__6R6wIVUMDICh3g-ApPEAQYAyABEgJdGvD_BwE


----------



## ThrashZone

Hequaqua said:


> May ask why not? Could it be that most car rads aluminum, therefore making these fluids ineffective?
> 
> Hard to find the Mayhem's kits....out of stock everywhere.


Hi,
Way too hard of chemicals in the auto flush meant to deal with rust/ antifreeze/......

Use Dawn ultra dish soap just a few drops and repeat once more after 4 hours running.
Flush with lots of distilled water this will be more than enough to get rid of flux/...

Use a filter to catch all the crap using dawn..

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-syste...2369-premium-clearview-fuel-filter/352786_0_0


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah modmymods has it 

https://modmymods.com/mayhems-blitz-kit-part-1-2-mbk.html
Oops nope out of stock


----------



## Hequaqua

Avacado said:


> It's almost like people don't try anymore or give up after one failed OOS website.
> 
> Frozen CPU: https://www.frozencpu.com/products/...MI7f6r__6R6wIVUMDICh3g-ApPEAQYASABEgJUo_D_BwE
> Fleabay: https://www.ebay.com/i/164220445310...MI7f6r__6R6wIVUMDICh3g-ApPEAQYAiABEgLqpPD_BwE
> Aquatuning (>10 Available) https://www.aquatuning.us/thermal-p...MI7f6r__6R6wIVUMDICh3g-ApPEAQYAyABEgJdGvD_BwE


Not failed. Frozen CPU up to 18 days. ebay about the same or more. Aquatuning 55.00 Shipping. PPCS out of stock. 



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Way too hard of chemicals in the auto flush meant to deal with rust/ antifreeze/......
> 
> Use Dawn ultra dish soap just a few drops and repeat once more after 4 hours running.
> Flush with lots of distilled water this will be more than enough to get rid of flux/...
> 
> Use a filter to catch all the crap using dawn..
> 
> https://www.autozone.com/fuel-syste...2369-premium-clearview-fuel-filter/352786_0_0


OK.....understandable. I have a inline filter on the line exiting the rad and before reentering the pump. I'll give that a try. This in on my old pump set up out in my shop...so easy to mess with.


----------



## Avacado

Hequaqua said:


> Not failed. Frozen CPU up to 18 days. ebay about the same or more. Aquatuning 55.00 Shipping. PPCS out of stock.


Here's the thing. Buy it and keep it on hand for when you need it. Saying something isn't available but then meaning the shipping will take too long or it is more than you feel comfortable paying for is not the same as it NOT being available anywhere. Also keep in mind, you can find them separately easier than the actual "Blitz" kit with both. I have many times in the past paid more and bought them individually.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hequaqua said:


> OK.....understandable. I have a inline filter on the line exiting the rad and before reentering the pump. I'll give that a try. This in on my old pump set up out in my shop...so easy to mess with.


Hi,
Really just rads are an issue 
Tubing usually is pretty clean and water blocks you can do by hand disassembling them

So just make a small loop with pump and rads and boom have fun


----------



## Hequaqua

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Really just rads are an issue
> Tubing usually is pretty clean and water blocks you can do by hand disassembling them
> 
> So just make a small loop with pump and rads and boom have fun


This rad was in my loop already, just thought I would clean it good. I might add it back in, not sure at this point really. 

I used a white vinegar and hot water mix and sloshed it about 8-10 times. Did that 4-5 times and drained it through a paper towel. I found maybe 5-6 specs of particulate...nothing major. Flushed the rad out using just hot tap water for about 5-10min. Hooked it all back up and ran distilled water through the loop for a few minutes. I have some SysPrep I can run as well. I'll drain that tomorrow and drain/fill run a few more times, then go from there. I also have both Mayhem's additives I can add to some distilled if I need to. 

Thanks for the guidance! :thumb:
@Avacado

My bad, but 18-30 days might as well be "out of stock" to me.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hequaqua said:


> This rad was in my loop already, just thought I would clean it good. I might add it back in, not sure at this point really.
> 
> I used a white vinegar and hot water mix and sloshed it about 8-10 times. Did that 4-5 times and drained it through a paper towl. I found maybe 5-6 specs of particulate...nothing major. Flushed the rad out using just hot tap water for about 5-10min. Hooked it all back up and ran distilled water through the loop for a few minutes. I have some SysPrep I can run as well. I'll drain that tomorrow and drain/fill run a few more times, then go from there. I also have both Mayhem's additives I can add to some distilled if I need to.
> 
> Thanks for the guidance! :thumb:


Hi,
Yeah I've never used vinegar it's not supposed to be good for nickle plating or maybe just ek plating lol so yeah I like to keep the chemicals down but I've used dawn ultra many times think it works better than mayhems part 2 frankly.


----------



## Hequaqua

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah I've never used vinegar it's not supposed to be good for nickle plating or maybe just ek plating lol so yeah I like to keep the chemicals down but I've used dawn ultra many times think it works better than mayhems part 2 frankly.


Well....rad is copper/brass....and it will be well flushed if it goes bank in my current loop. Vinegar has a pH of a little over 2 so should be OK. I didn't get much of anything out of it...just need to make sure it's flushed really well. I can check the pH and balance that if needed.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hequaqua said:


> Well....rad is copper/brass....and it will be well flushed if it goes bank in my current loop. Vinegar has a pH of a little over 2 so should be OK. I didn't get much of anything out of it...just need to make sure it's flushed really well. I can check the pH and balance that if needed.


Hi,
Only real trick with rad cleaning is making sure you get all the air out of it while cleaning and yeah flush a lot same deal get the air out then too.


----------



## shotround

Hequaqua said:


> Well....rad is copper/brass....and it will be well flushed if it goes bank in my current loop. Vinegar has a pH of a little over 2 so should be OK. I didn't get much of anything out of it...just need to make sure it's flushed really well. I can check the pH and balance that if needed.


either sysprep or vinegar pretty much destroyed the nickel plating on my ek fittings. oddly, the nickel plating on the ek vga supremacy is holding out.


----------



## Hequaqua

shotround said:


> either sysprep or vinegar pretty much destroyed the nickel plating on my ek fittings. oddly, the nickel plating on the ek vga supremacy is holding out.


Hmmm.....vinegar I could understand, SysPrep not so much. I've used it for readying my system several times. Of course I don't have anything that's nickel touching fluid. 

_________________________________________________

Note:

How do you all store your rads when not in use? Dry or with prepared fluid/distilled water?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Just dry it out and seal with plugs or tape which ever I find first.


----------



## Hequaqua

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Just dry it out and seal with plugs or tape which ever I find first.


Will do....plenty of plugs....lol

Again, thanks! :thumb:


----------



## CAL V

Seeking for some help on mediocre thermal results on AMD Foundation block.

Just got my loop up and running yesterday, but the thermal results seem mediocre for such a simple loop.

Watercooling setup:
-Optimus Foundation block - acrylic, copper
-Heatkiller tube 150 D5
-Xylem D5 PWM @ 2500rpm
-Magicool G2 Slim 360mm 
-Scythe AP15 x3 @ 1200rpm
-Alphacool 16/10 compression fittings
-Alphacool AlphaTube TPV 16/10
-TG Kryonaut

all these cooling just a Ryzen 5 3600 and nothing else. As for some background of the environment it operates in, it sits under a desk with ample room for ventilation. I live in South east asia, so ambient temperature is higher at about 28c. 

During idle, the Tctl/Tdie in Hwinfo fluctuates like crazy from 36c to 55c (yes doing nothing, sometimes one of the core will turbo randomly and temperature reaches 55c). Most of the time it will sit at around 43-44c but still fluctuating a lot with almost nothing running in the background. Under load like CB20, the Tctl/Tdie will go all the way to ~71c which surprised me. Unfortunately I don't have any coolant temps to report as I have yet to install the sensor, but the reservoir is almost ambient temperature to the touch. 

So far I've only tweaked the my RAM to run at 3733C14 and everything else about the CPU is stock. I've also tried repasting and reseating the block but same results. First installation I applied a pea sized blob of Kryonaut, upon removing the block, I saw some empty spots on the edge of the cpu so I tried spreading it evenly on the second attempt. 

The block is tightened sufficiently as there's no wiggle room anymore and I don't feel comfortable turning those thumb nuts any further.

Anything else that I can try?


----------



## Keith Myers

Try a better paste than Kryonaut. I've never had any good results from trying it over 3 attempts.

Tighten the thumbnuts as tight as you can get hand tight. The block depends on a lot of tension to deform properly to the IHS.


----------



## Mxj1

CAL V said:


> Seeking for some help on mediocre thermal results on AMD Foundation block.
> 
> Just got my loop up and running yesterday, but the thermal results seem mediocre for such a simple loop.
> 
> Watercooling setup:
> -Optimus Foundation block - acrylic, copper
> -Heatkiller tube 150 D5
> -Xylem D5 PWM @ 2500rpm
> -Magicool G2 Slim 360mm
> -Scythe AP15 x3 @ 1200rpm
> -Alphacool 16/10 compression fittings
> -Alphacool AlphaTube TPV 16/10
> -TG Kryonaut
> 
> all these cooling just a Ryzen 5 3600 and nothing else. As for some background of the environment it operates in, it sits under a desk with ample room for ventilation. I live in South east asia, so ambient temperature is higher at about 28c.
> 
> During idle, the Tctl/Tdie in Hwinfo fluctuates like crazy from 36c to 55c (yes doing nothing, sometimes one of the core will turbo randomly and temperature reaches 55c). Most of the time it will sit at around 43-44c but still fluctuating a lot with almost nothing running in the background. Under load like CB20, the Tctl/Tdie will go all the way to ~71c which surprised me. Unfortunately I don't have any coolant temps to report as I have yet to install the sensor, but the reservoir is almost ambient temperature to the touch.
> 
> So far I've only tweaked the my RAM to run at 3733C14 and everything else about the CPU is stock. I've also tried repasting and reseating the block but same results. First installation I applied a pea sized blob of Kryonaut, upon removing the block, I saw some empty spots on the edge of the cpu so I tried spreading it evenly on the second attempt.
> 
> The block is tightened sufficiently as there's no wiggle room anymore and I don't feel comfortable turning those thumb nuts any further.
> 
> Anything else that I can try?


You already know coolant temps are helpful. 

Are you using the new studs that Optimus created, or are you going sans backplate?


----------



## vmanuelgm

@Optimus WC

Hi.

Interested in Signature V2 for my 10980xe. Wrote u via contact form in your web page, but no replies after some weeks.

Any help???

Thanks in advance!!!


----------



## Mxj1

vmanuelgm said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Hi.
> 
> Interested in Signature V2 for my 10980xe. Wrote u via contact form in your web page, but no replies after some weeks.
> 
> Any help???
> 
> Thanks in advance!!!


I had similar experience earlier this year. I found they were most responsive via Reddit.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
He's just buried he'll be around soon enough.
Think he was here last week.
Yep week ago today he was here so he's due


----------



## vmanuelgm

They are tired of selling waterblocks maybe...


----------



## Thebc2

Same experience, was torn between a signature or foundation based on availability but they couldn’t tell me if selecting one over the other would impact my wait time. Ordered the foundation a couple weeks ago, hopefully will ship soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## skupples

ooof they're even out of intel blocks now?


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> ooof they're even out of intel blocks now?


Hi,
When you run out of nickle people soak up the copper lol so yeah all gone on PPC 
I linked to one PPC hasn't even tagged as out of stock yet just no add to cart on an acetal copper list didn't show out of stock yet so it may have just got bought.


----------



## skupples

what i'm really looking forward to?

seeing the gains from Mayhem's XTR thru this block, since its cooling only 2c cooler than EVO it replaced.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> what i'm really looking forward to?
> 
> seeing the gains from Mayhem's XTR thru this block, since its cooling only 2c cooler than EVO it replaced.


Hi,
Maybe you didn't do something right if only seeing 2c difference on an evo 
Should be closer to 6c.
This a sigV2 ?
Probably too much cold plate bow for your chip if so 
Didn't I say foundation


----------



## vmanuelgm

On Performance PCS say no ETA for Optimus products, they send new ones when they can...


----------



## ThrashZone

vmanuelgm said:


> On Performance PCS say no ETA for Optimus products, they send new ones when they can...


Hi,
Yep you can get that off optimus website.


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Maybe you didn't do something right if only seeing 2c difference on an evo
> Should be closer to 6c.
> This a sigV2 ?
> Probably too much cold plate bow for your chip if so
> Didn't I say foundation


where are you pulling 6c from aside from your arse? 

n as far as warp goes, big nope. block stamp is just fine. 

its a 9700k, not a 1098435293482342+++. quite easy to cool by comparison by any block. I do expect a total of 6c over the EVO when combined with the new Mayhems coolant.

hmm, not sure I should've even brought up I'm getting that stuff since its not available yet. i guess its his way of saying thank you for all the years of shilling without expecting free stuff in return (like all the people that PM him for free stuff on the regular)


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> where are you pulling 6c from aside from your arse?
> 
> n as far as warp goes, big nope. block stamp is just fine.
> 
> its a 9700k, not a 1098435293482342+++. quite easy to cool by comparison by any block. I do expect a total of 6c over the EVO when combined with the new Mayhems coolant.
> 
> hmm, not sure I should've even brought up I'm getting that stuff since its not available yet.


Hi,
It's like saying ek evo is equal to ek magnitude dude 
Optimus foundation is 4c better than ek magnitude so it would follow ek evo is well under these results I'd guess 2c more.

Cold plate was a major issue on my sigV2 on 9940x so yeah maybe your much smaller chip might not make contact as bad no telling.
Buy a bigger chip 

I'm done with mayhems fluids.


----------



## vmanuelgm

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> It's like saying ek evo is equal to ek magnitude dude
> Optimus foundation is 4c better than ek magnitude so it would follow ek evo is well under these results I'd guess 2c more.
> 
> Cold plate was a major issue on my sigV2 on 9940x so yeah maybe your much smaller chip might not make contact as bad no telling.
> Buy a bigger chip
> 
> I'm done with mayhems fluids.


For comparison, have u tested Velocity, is it better than EVO???


----------



## ThrashZone

vmanuelgm said:


> For comparison, have u tested Velocity, is it better than EVO???


Hi,
Nope never fell for the velocity block, far as I've read no different than evo just a boring filler release with a different look.
Most of ek is just different looks like lipstick on an old pig 

Only new design is magnitude and it's so overpriced it's pathetic luckily mine was free and still don't use it nothing to put it on x99 is down atm.


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> It's like saying ek evo is equal to ek magnitude dude
> Optimus foundation is 4c better than ek magnitude so it would follow ek evo is well under these results I'd guess 2c more.
> 
> Cold plate was a major issue on my sigV2 on 9940x so yeah maybe your much smaller chip might not make contact as bad no telling.
> Buy a bigger chip
> 
> I'm done with mayhems fluids.



hmm, yeah... pulled from arse, as suspected. 



no one's done with Mayhems fluids if this stuff actually works as advertised... we'll be letting you know.


you attributed your SR2s as to why you had color shift right? I'll watch for that one too since I've got 4 inline now.


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> hmm, yeah... pulled from arse, as suspected.
> 
> 
> 
> no one's done with Mayhems fluids if this stuff actually works as advertised... we'll be letting you know.
> 
> 
> you attributed your SR2s as to why you had color shift right? I'll watch for that one too since I've got 4 inline now.


Hi,
You thinking an ek magnitude is equal to ek evo is a world of silly lol so congrats for that one
Can't seem to follow a link and read comparison screen shot either of tests of foundation verses magnitude either stunning :thumb:


----------



## vmanuelgm

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nope never fell for the velocity block, far as I've read no different than evo just a boring filler release with a different look.
> Most of ek is just different looks like lipstick on an old pig
> 
> Only new design is magnitude and it's so overpriced it's pathetic luckily mine was free and still don't use it nothing to put it on x99 is down atm.



I asked because I did try the Velocity (full nickel) and it was worse than EVO full nickel both in Direct DIE and on the IHS.

So u have a magnitude and u don't use it, wanna sell it for a nice friendly price??? xDDD


----------



## ThrashZone

vmanuelgm said:


> I asked because I did try the Velocity (full nickel) and it was worse than EVO full nickel both in Direct DIE and on the IHS.
> 
> So u have a magnitude and u don't use it, wanna sell it for a nice friendly price??? xDDD


Hi,
Been modified a tad mostly outside cosmetic to the nickle was a ek reject so it was crap already no loss 
Acetal dang it was rough as hell pitiful what acetal is coming like :/
Send me a private message


----------



## ThrashZone

vmanuelgm said:


> I asked because I did try the Velocity (full nickel) and it was worse than EVO full nickel both in Direct DIE and on the IHS.
> 
> So u have a magnitude and u don't use it, wanna sell it for a nice friendly price??? xDDD


Hi,
Ek cold plate was rough garbage no cookie so removed it and polished it smooth


----------



## vmanuelgm

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Ek cold plate was rough garbage no cookie so removed it and polished it smooth



Do u like the Magnitude retention system??? U force the screws until the end???


----------



## ThrashZone

vmanuelgm said:


> Do u like the Magnitude retention system??? U force the screws until the end???


Hi,
No it's a garbage mounting system
Only good thing is the little ek screws fit into a 212 evo air cooler back plate so I could use them to mount a ek evo on 775 socket and cool a q9550 lol couldn't believe they fit


----------



## skupples

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You thinking an ek magnitude is equal to ek evo is a world of silly lol so congrats for that one
> Can't seem to follow a link and read comparison screen shot either of tests of foundation verses magnitude either stunning :thumb:


 no actually i'm not thinking of magnitude, because I would never give EK that kinda money. 




and what link? there's no link in your original comment or this one.


----------



## Jpmboy

IDK - that EK Mag looks pretty interesting... kinda trying to copy Optimus in cold plate customization.


----------



## skupples

hair


it does indeed look interesting. n yet, I simply choose not to want to afford one at this time


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> no actually i'm not thinking of magnitude, because I would never give EK that kinda money.
> 
> and what link? there's no link in your original comment or this one.


Link to foundation and magnitude testing is on my signature.
SigV2 is not 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-269.html#post28391284



Jpmboy said:


> IDK - that EK Mag looks pretty interesting... kinda trying to copy Optimus in cold plate customization.


Hi,
Yes water jet stream sure does look like a copy of optimus with o-rings and all 
Problem is the ek cold plate is not as good and mount is crap
Optimus cooling fins rule :thumb:


----------



## Jpmboy

oh yeah?


----------



## ThrashZone

Jpmboy said:


> oh yeah?


Hi,
If you want a ek mag let me know


----------



## Cozmos

@Optimus WC

Sent a few messages about getting the replacement screws to mount to the AM4 bracket but no response yet.


----------



## asdf893

Has anyone heard from them recently? I ordered online 2 weeks ago, emailed for an update 1 week ago, no response.


----------



## Shawnb99

asdf893 said:


> Has anyone heard from them recently? I ordered online 2 weeks ago, emailed for an update 1 week ago, no response.


It's been almost 2 weeks since I've last had contact.


----------



## Section31

Little bit of build update. Optimus Fittings are best i have ever used. Also right decision to keep and reuse the caselabs s8. Everything working out though cabling i got to cleanup/think about placement of Aq6LT/Hubby7 more.

https://imgur.com/a/APpbcgZ

https://imgur.com/a/tssMVqQ


----------



## Thebc2

Radio silence for me as well. Great product reviews but they need to ramp their customer service and production. Glad I ordered a heatkiller IV pro to tide me over, their 3 week estimate has gone by the wayside, and this was just an intel foundation block.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## skupples

they scrambled other products into existence when they realize their blocks were gonna go perma-backorder. 


will be sad, but I fully expect COVID to kill Optimus off at this point.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> they scrambled other products into existence when they realize their blocks were gonna go perma-backorder.
> 
> 
> will be sad, but I fully expect COVID to kill Optimus off at this point.


Not till I order my fittings and pump/reservoirs.


----------



## dwolvin

Right? That pump combo looks tasty.


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> Not till I order my fittings and pump/reservoirs.


you don't want the reservoirs until they fix the plating issue on the insert branding thing... unless worn steampunk is what you're looking at doing?


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> you don't want the reservoirs until they fix the plating issue on the insert branding thing... unless worn steampunk is what you're looking at doing?


I spoke with the guy with that issue. He mentioned it was due to EKWB XE Radiator issue and gunk that wasn't properly cleaned. Though EKWB worked hard to clean up there QC records, doesn't mean the issue doesn't exist anymore.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Not till I order my fittings and pump/reservoirs.


Still waiting for the metric fittings? Curious why they aren't available to order yet.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> they scrambled other products into existence when they realize their blocks were gonna go perma-backorder.
> 
> 
> will be sad, but I fully expect COVID to kill Optimus off at this point.


Hope not, maybe they are expanding operations like Heatkiller is. I saw them add another expansion to there factory, I can't wait till they come up with the new radiators. I finally will get an setup that closely resembles the one I had in my caselabs s5. None of the builds later were able to swap out parts in 5-10min.

I ordered in an xe-nickel cold plate (prefer it over copper) and waiting for 3080TI/3090 waterblocks. However, lot of companies have and will be going bankrupt at some point. This is my take on caselabs, it died the painless death. They were either going to get killed in 2018 or they would have died in 2019/2020 for sure. Only difference is that more of us would have gotten the cases.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Right? That pump combo looks tasty.


The optimus one is nice but they still need that alternative mounting so we can use D5 Next at least. I find the Ultitube to be pretty good, its easier maintanence compared to heatkiller Tube where you got to use allen key to remove the locks to get access to the pump and glass tube. It was little bit scary installing the tube into the aquaucomputer multitop. It's just lot of pressure required. I will say one thing, Watercool and Aquacomputer E-mail support has been very good. Dealing with Jakob (Heatkiller) and Sven (Aquacomputer) has been an pleasure. They respond pretty fast and very helpful. Sven managed to get the multitop sent in standard package (9euro shipping) and came in good condition and two weeks only.


----------



## D-EJ915

skupples said:


> they scrambled other products into existence when they realize their blocks were gonna go perma-backorder.
> 
> 
> will be sad, but I fully expect COVID to kill Optimus off at this point.


https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1296470950389714945

Looks like they closed due to somebody getting it, not sure why they can't say it earlier though.


----------



## skupples

i'm a prophet... i don't even use twitter.


should'a gone harder on the COVID stocks too  





Section31 said:


> I spoke with the guy with that issue. He mentioned it was due to EKWB XE Radiator issue and gunk that wasn't properly cleaned. Though EKWB worked hard to clean up there QC records, doesn't mean the issue doesn't exist anymore.





so guy get a 3rd unit, cleaned his radiator, & it stopped happening? 



still lots of assumptions here.


----------



## Section31

Thats one way to make money in these times. There’s just lot more negativity travelling around last while. Try to stay positive everyone.

The biggest thing with the optimus reservoir is the pricing. In fact all the new pump/reservoir from ekwb, bitspower, etc have been really expensive. Only the aquacomputer ultitube is priced at good price of 140usd.

The other issues is with the uniqueness of the reservoir being the optimus logo, once you use color solution and depending on the location of the reservoir you won’t see it. So basically its real personal opinion if its useful.

I am only aware of one person with the issue unless there’s someone else that has that issue. They haven’t contacted me in weeks though.

Skrupples, Ignoring this topic, hope you are doing ok yourself. You were lot less negativity when we last spoke couple months ago. Really hope everything is alright with you. I try to take things easier at this point, enjoy life with people around me and not focus too much on the news.


----------



## Shawnb99

Ordered my fittings. Went with the Ultitube and D5 next instead of the Optimus pump/reservoir. I couldn't justify the extra $100 for the Optimus combo.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Ordered my fittings. Went with the Ultitube and D5 next instead of the Optimus pump/reservoir. I couldn't justify the extra $100 for the Optimus combo.


Make sure to order the parts you need like fan mount and multitop. Only aquacomputer germany carries everything and is cheaper than ordering from aquatuning. Contact Sven for better shipping (don’t pay the 100usd shipping)


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Make sure to order the parts you need like fan mount and multitop. Only aquacomputer germany carries everything and is cheaper than ordering from aquatuning. Contact Sven for better shipping (don’t pay the 100usd shipping)


I grabbed the Pro model from Performance-PC's. I'll be mounting them to the dual reservoir mount in my TH10. Should come with all I need.


----------



## Shawnb99

For those wondering why @Optimus WC is MIA apparently the CS rep has come down with COVID, hence the lack of response in the last little while.
Or at least according to Reddit


----------



## Mxj1

Shawnb99 said:


> Ordered my fittings. Went with the Ultitube and D5 next instead of the Optimus pump/reservoir. I couldn't justify the extra $100 for the Optimus combo.


Great choice - I'm beyond happy with my choice to swap my heatkiller res for the ultitube.


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> Shawnb99 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered my fittings. Went with the Ultitube and D5 next instead of the Optimus pump/reservoir. I couldn't justify the extra $100 for the Optimus combo.
> 
> 
> 
> Great choice - I'm beyond happy with my choice to swap my heatkiller res for the ultitube.
Click to expand...

Same here.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> For those wondering why @Optimus WC is MIA apparently the CS rep has come down with COVID, hence the lack of response in the last little while.
> Or at least according to Reddit


Hope for speedy recovery and no after effects


----------



## dwolvin

Oh Dang! Fair winds and following seas Optimus WC!


----------



## darkangelism

So Performance PCs is showing Optimus Foundation AMD CPU Block - Acetal Nickel with Black Aluminum mount with 7 in stock. Going to order this and cancel my order from them directly.


----------



## Section31

darkangelism said:


> So Performance PCs is showing Optimus Foundation AMD CPU Block - Acetal Nickel with Black Aluminum mount with 7 in stock. Going to order this and cancel my order from them directly.


Get what you can thats in stock. Supply will be like that for short term.


----------



## skupples

i wouldn't back order anything block shaped from optimus unless you wanna wait months n months for a fat "sorry, we changed our minds'

y'all are giving them way too much undue credit, for zero reason aside from brand loyalty. stop.


----------



## darkangelism

Section31 said:


> Get what you can thats in stock. Supply will be like that for short term.


Yeah, I ordered all of my hardware upgrades 2 weeks ago in case there were delays and am hoping for a new Nvidia card at launch, the CPU waterblock and GPU were all that were left to arrive.


----------



## skupples

expecting a GPU block from optimus on the upcoming card when they couldn't even deliver on their 2080ti promises = oof.

unfortunately though, they seem to be embracing that which makes so many hate American business. the art of bullshart.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Late to the party and never really got going from many 2020 issues main one being corona crap.
3rd party nickle plating company mostly held up production and messed up the plating they did didn't help at all.

Unless the owner dies doubt they won't open back up.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> expecting a GPU block from optimus on the upcoming card when they couldn't even deliver on their 2080ti promises = oof.
> 
> unfortunately though, they seem to be embracing that which makes so many hate American business. the art of bullshart.


I think some of the people here probably aren't going to wait for Optimus. If you go to heatkiller thread, couple of the optimus ppl are asking them about Heatkiller block release date.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> I think some of the people here probably aren't going to wait for Optimus. If you go to heatkiller thread, couple of the optimus ppl are asking them about Heatkiller block release date.


I'm going with both likely. Get the heatkiller one first and then switch over to Optimus if and when they release one.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I'm going with both likely. Get the heatkiller one first and then switch over to Optimus if and when they release one.


That's pretty common too. I have honest feeling with the new GPU's (assuming they are 4k120), i am going to live with it for 3-5years. Same with next round of CPU's.


----------



## skupples

EK & Swiftech will have blocks on the market first, with high end models coming some weeks/months later.

only NV's block makers get early access as far as I understand it.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> EK & Swiftech will have blocks on the market first, with good ones coming some weeks/months later.


Generally EKWB is first but some of us refuse to use EKWB. Just too many bad experiences that we refuse to buy from them. Swiftech they have great CS, good quality and such but i rather use the top brands. I will gladly wait 1-2months for an block from Aquacomputer/Heatkiller/Optimus. Heatkiller came out with there 2080TI block within one month after release. It was pretty short, in my case, i used the time to do space invader test and sure enough RMA. I rather do sufficient air cooling testing before I install an waterblock and then go through the process of removing and reinstalling it.


----------



## Shawnb99

I might just grab a Kingpin this time around and be stuck with a hydrocopper.


----------



## skupples

i'm just letting mr. no avatar know what's going on.


it took them 9 months to admit the 2080ti block is so delayed that it probably won't ever come/is coming after NV drops new hotness. 

delusions of grandeur if you expect an optimus gpu block, basically ever.


----------



## Thebc2

Shawnb99 said:


> I'm going with both likely. Get the heatkiller one first and then switch over to Optimus if and when they release one.




Pretty much this for me as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> i'm just letting mr. no avatar know what's going on.
> 
> 
> it took them 9 months to admit the 2080ti block is so delayed that it probably won't ever come/is coming after NV drops new hotness.
> 
> delusions of grandeur if you expect an optimus gpu block, basically ever.


There's lot of new people to watercooling (due to government stimulus, etc) and unlike most of the remaining watercoolers here, they all hear about the new marketing and jump on it. Then some get impatient and are looking out for answers. General rule is if you can't wait, please buy what is readily available at PPCS, TitanRigs, Modmymods, FrozenCPU (new ownership) or direct from manufacturer (Heatkiller, Aquacomputer). It is well known Optimus is behind in production. Chasing them down will do nothing. I get people asking if I have free radiators and D5 Pumps in the last little while.

Patience is important but also plan alternative in case, where there are. For example, my wife is still waiting for the local Piano store to get in one of the higher end Yamaha Electric Pianos (Mini-Grand). They said it would take 3-4weeks but its been like 2 months. I don't blame the store, the shipping logistics from Asia (for large items) is pretty bad still. 

Also, I recently just bought an razer mouse but I am dealing with there support department because they screwed up the US Customs Form. So its been stuck in the US Port for almost two weeks. I ended up buying from Amazon.ca and will refuse the package whenever Razer bother fixes it up and then process an refund.


----------



## Zurv

waaa? still no GPU blocks. I guess it was the a good move that i cancelled it months ago. (I think I ordered it at the end of last year.)

The funny thing is i just pulled out my kingpin 2080ti to sell. I guess that custom block isn't coming either.

I normally wait for bitspower, they are also normally one of the first out of the gate.


----------



## blackzaru

If anything in this launch is to be similar to the RTX 2000 series launch, it will be a good thing to wait a few months, until great gpu blocks are released. By this time, most issues, and any hardware malfunction (remember that "dead on arrival" alien artifact a lot of rtx cards had at launch?) will have been ironed out.


----------



## Section31

blackzaru said:


> If anything in this launch is to be similar to the RTX 2000 series launch, it will be a good thing to wait a few months, until great gpu blocks are released. By this time, most issues, and any hardware malfunction (remember that "dead on arrival" alien artifact a lot of rtx cards had at launch?) will have been ironed out.


Agree. Basically wait for one of the heatkiller, aquacomputer, optimus blocks. In last round of testing, the aquacomputer and heatkiller were top blocks.


----------



## aguyonurbudlist

Is there a place where people who have received their order post their order number? I’ve seen people do this sometimes to get a feel for timing when a company doesn’t/can’t communicate wait times. (Bought a “grasshopper” once and it took a year and a half). It was fine but I felt better knowing roughly the flow of production output.


----------



## lb_felipe

poah said:


> That paste is crap. why people continue to use it I don't know.


What paste do you recommend?


----------



## poah

lb_felipe said:


> What paste do you recommend?


cryorig CP7, MX4, AS5, HT-1 etc etc etc


----------



## farpetrad

skupples said:


> i'm a prophet... i don't even use twitter.
> 
> 
> should'a gone harder on the COVID stocks too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so guy get a 3rd unit, cleaned his radiator, & it stopped happening?
> 
> 
> 
> still lots of assumptions here.


Sorry been away for a while after my mom passed. F**K Cancer....

It was my distruptor thing. The replacement suffered the same fate and is all torn up. Optimus fed me some reason blaming my system, saying it must be the ekwb radiators not being cleaned enough but I cleaned them with a 2nd round of mayhems part 2 before installing the replacement they sent. I let them know it was happening again and they haven't responded to me. I haven't torn things down yet but looking at both CPU and GPU block you can see both are perfectly fine and its just the disruptor thing.


----------



## Section31

Thanks for the update. The other PSA I have is for those who bought the soft tubing or hard tubing fittings. You got to use the included wrench to tighten the fittings. I was wondering why my fittings was leaking and they were tight using my hand standard.


----------



## darkangelism

got my foundation block from Performance PCs


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, I'm back and the team is back in the office full time. Ugh, 2020, do not recommend 

So we're back to shipping everything. We're a tiny company, so any personal/health/family issues hit us hard. 

GPUs are being worked on right now, yes they've taken forever. It's the last 5% of performance we're tweaking to make sure it works in the best possible way. Yes, we'll upgrade anyone who wants to 3080/3090. We don't have access to early info, but we're making sure our block has the best performance and will adapt easily to the upcoming GPUs. 



farpetrad said:


> It was my distruptor thing. The replacement suffered the same fate and is all torn up. Optimus fed me some reason blaming my system, saying it must be the ekwb radiators not being cleaned enough but I cleaned them with a 2nd round of mayhems part 2 before installing the replacement they sent. I let them know it was happening again and they haven't responded to me. I haven't torn things down yet but looking at both CPU and GPU block you can see both are perfectly fine and its just the disruptor thing.


Regarding the vortex breaker, the corrosion/deposits on the breaker is actually on the outside -- the breaker is picking up copper sulfate (we think) from the system, probably from chemicals used to clean the loop. We think it happens because the fluid is turbulent in the res and circles around the breaker. 

Attached are the pics of the breaker you sent back to us. We sanded off the deposits. And you can see it's all nickel underneath. You can see where you did the scratch test on it. Super strange, I know, but seems like something is going on in the system that's causing buildup on the breaker.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, I'm back and the team is back in the office full time. Ugh, 2020, do not recommend
> 
> So we're back to shipping everything. We're a tiny company, so any personal/health/family issues hit us hard.
> 
> GPUs are being worked on right now, yes they've taken forever. It's the last 5% of performance we're tweaking to make sure it works in the best possible way. Yes, we'll upgrade anyone who wants to 3080/3090. We don't have access to early info, but we're making sure our block has the best performance and will adapt easily to the upcoming GPUs.
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the vortex breaker, the corrosion/deposits on the breaker is actually on the outside -- the breaker is picking up copper sulfate (we think) from the system, probably from chemicals used to clean the loop. We think it happens because the fluid is turbulent in the res and circles around the breaker.
> 
> Attached are the pics of the breaker you sent back to us. We sanded off the deposits. And you can see it's all nickel underneath. You can see where you did the scratch test on it. Super strange, I know, but seems like something is going on in the system that's causing buildup on the breaker.


Thanks for the update. It's going to be interesting when 3090 blocks come out, they are massive cards.

I think there's reason the other players in the industry uses different design, look at aquacomputer ones, even the new ultitube uses an simply rubber filter and heatkiller ones are just holes in a metal sheet.


----------



## dwolvin

Welcome back, and good luck on the material analysis / deposit investigation. That can me a complete pain, and is sometimes not really solvable to any real satisfaction.

If I may ask, what's the 5% holding you back? Making sure it''s bidirectional or just thinking that there is still performance on the (design) table?


----------



## Optimus WC

When it comes to reservoirs, our vortex breaker is copper with nickel, same as everything else we do. So galvanic corrosion won't be an issue. The copper deposit issue is super niche, so it'd probably happen somewhere else in the loop if it didn't happen to the vortex breaker. But since we don't know exactly what happened, impossible to say. 

Regardless, using a copper/nickel breaker is better than using any sort of steel, that presents all new galvanic issues and, of course, rust, even with stainless. We can provide raw copper for those that want them, though again no practical reason at this point  

For the GPU last 5%, the challenge with GPUs in general is the PCB with different areas presents numerous challenges. It's one thing to cool the die itself, something we already do extremely well. 

The trick is making sure we can get the correct pressure on the other areas of the PCB without bending the PCB. So as the rest of the card heats up, we want to make sure those areas are also absolutely the best numbers possible. We've seen other cards that are bowed or have serious manufacturing problems that cause big issues on areas like ram and vrms. So with our block, it's not just tweaking the design, but reevaluating how the overall concept of GPU blocks work. It won't look dramatically different, but it'll make using the blocks and getting awesome numbers excellent. 

Finally, we're making sure we can adapt to upcoming designs that have insane heat requirements. The 3090 seems to have much higher wattage, so it's important that the overall design isn't just for current chips, but for upcoming ones. Our designs can definitely dissipate 600w+.


----------



## blackzaru

Optimus WC said:


> Our designs can definitely dissipate 600w+.


You underestimate my willingness to flash a card with an unlimited power bios and possibly burn its vrm.


----------



## shotround

so undecided which res to get next. optimus or singularity... ive got time to mull it over though while the bank account recovers from the aquaero purchase.


----------



## Shawnb99

shotround said:


> so undecided which res to get next. optimus or singularity... ive got time to mull it over though while the bank account recovers from the aquaero purchase.


I wanted the Optmius one but couldn't justify the extra $100 over any other combo, not when I was ordering two of them. It's a nice combo and all but it's not worth $100 more.

Just got my Ultitubes Pro, not a fan of the RGB on it at all. The D5 next is ugly with it.


----------



## Cozmos

@Optimus WC

About those screws for the AM4 block... Can I PM you or are you just going to catch up on the backlog of emails sent through the website?

Glad to hear the team is doing better.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> When it comes to reservoirs, our vortex breaker is copper with nickel, same as everything else we do. So galvanic corrosion won't be an issue. The copper deposit issue is super niche, so it'd probably happen somewhere else in the loop if it didn't happen to the vortex breaker. But since we don't know exactly what happened, impossible to say.
> 
> Regardless, using a copper/nickel breaker is better than using any sort of steel, that presents all new galvanic issues and, of course, rust, even with stainless. We can provide raw copper for those that want them, though again no practical reason at this point /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> For the GPU last 5%, the challenge with GPUs in general is the PCB with different areas presents numerous challenges. It's one thing to cool the die itself, something we already do extremely well.
> 
> The trick is making sure we can get the correct pressure on the other areas of the PCB without bending the PCB. So as the rest of the card heats up, we want to make sure those areas are also absolutely the best numbers possible. We've seen other cards that are bowed or have serious manufacturing problems that cause big issues on areas like ram and vrms. So with our block, it's not just tweaking the design, but reevaluating how the overall concept of GPU blocks work. It won't look dramatically different, but it'll make using the blocks and getting awesome numbers excellent.
> 
> Finally, we're making sure we can adapt to upcoming designs that have insane heat requirements. The 3090 seems to have much higher wattage, so it's important that the overall design isn't just for current chips, but for upcoming ones. Our designs can definitely dissipate 600w+.


I hope so. The sooner the better. Would love to use your gpu block if can come on timely basis (not launch) but nothing more 4-6weeks

My holdup is the radiator choice. Everything here except the cabling(but easy to replace), gpu plus block and radiator. I basically have done the water setup for the whole bottom chamber and tested for leaks too.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> shotround said:
> 
> 
> 
> so undecided which res to get next. optimus or singularity... ive got time to mull it over though while the bank account recovers from the aquaero purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted the Optmius one but couldn't justify the extra $100 over any other combo, not when I was ordering two of them. It's a nice combo and all but it's not worth $100 more.
> 
> Just got my Ultitubes Pro, not a fan of the RGB on it at all. The D5 next is ugly with it.
Click to expand...

I use it without the rgb ring honestly. In the end that saving on the res (least important part) can go elsewhere


----------



## Zurv

I still have faith in SLI! so a block that works in both flow directions is helpful. I also don't mind replacing whatever I get near launch with better blocks.

I'd suggest keep working on the 2080ti as a test card, but don't make them. Focus on the 3080s/3090s. I'd think people spending the premium on optimus GPU blocks aren't getting them for old cards. (but what do i know.)


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> I use it without the rgb ring honestly. In the end that saving on the res (least important part) can go elsewhere


Yeah I'll leave the rgb crap off but it still ruins the look of it. Knowing myself I still may end up going Optimus I really like the looks of theirs just not the price.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I use it without the rgb ring honestly. In the end that saving on the res (least important part) can go elsewhere
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I'll leave the rgb crap off but it still ruins the look of it. Knowing myself I still may end up going Optimus I really like the looks of theirs just not the price.
Click to expand...

They have an new one coming but who knows. They got huge backlog of orders plus GPU block really needs to come out


----------



## Optimus WC

We'll definitely work on the 3080/3090 as soon as we have the right info, we're small so we don't have insider access at this point. We'll need to have physical samples to validate, so hard to say exactly when that will be. But we're doing work now to make sure we can get there when the time comes. 

For the reservoir, the glass ones are cool, something we may do in the future. Interestingly, glass is far, far cheaper than our acrylic cast tubes. Extruded tube is cheap, so is glass, then cast tubing is far, far more expensive. But that's the only way we can make sure it's going to survive for a long time. We haven't tested all the glass res systems out there, but most of them leave something to be desired. We're the only company that uses cast tubes (I believe), and then machining them correctly is also really tricky. That's why we don't get the cracking issues every other res gets. Also, we include the full monolithic aluminum base that acts like a heat sink. We could sell all this stuff separately like other brands, to kinda hide the true price. And have all the screws going into metal, not into the acrylic or acetal, which strips easily. All these little things add to the price, but we think it's worth it for the ultimate professional res


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> We'll definitely work on the 3080/3090 as soon as we have the right info, we're small so we don't have insider access at this point. We'll need to have physical samples to validate, so hard to say exactly when that will be. But we're doing work now to make sure we can get there when the time comes.
> 
> For the reservoir, the glass ones are cool, something we may do in the future. Interestingly, glass is far, far cheaper than our acrylic cast tubes. Extruded tube is cheap, so is glass, then cast tubing is far, far more expensive. But that's the only way we can make sure it's going to survive for a long time. We haven't tested all the glass res systems out there, but most of them leave something to be desired. We're the only company that uses cast tubes (I believe), and then machining them correctly is also really tricky. That's why we don't get the cracking issues every other res gets. Also, we include the full monolithic aluminum base that acts like a heat sink. We could sell all this stuff separately like other brands, to kinda hide the true price. And have all the screws going into metal, not into the acrylic or acetal, which strips easily. All these little things add to the price, but we think it's worth it for the ultimate professional res


Does the heatsink have any effect on the water temps? Also how much cooler did it keep the D5 since it's cooled by the loop anyways it's hard to see how much of a benefit if any it brings. 
Cheaper would be nicer. Dual option would be better. I bulked at $650 for two of them. No one else makes a decent dual pump/reservoir option, if you came out with a side by side option I'd buy instantly.


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> Does the heatsink have any effect on the water temps? Also how much cooler did it keep the D5 since it's cooled by the loop anyways it's hard to see how much of a benefit if any it brings.
> Cheaper would be nicer. Dual option would be better. I bulked at $650 for two of them. No one else makes a decent dual pump/reservoir option, if you came out with a side by side option I'd buy instantly.


We havent done enough testing with it to see about water temps in an overall system. But the D5 can run up to around 30w or so, and the heatsink is pulling that into the air, not into the liquid. You can definitely tell the difference if you run our res vs another res without it hooked up to a system. There the water temps are def different, though I don't remember off the top of my head. 

As for the double, we'll do that eventually, lots of blocks to get to first


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Does the heatsink have any effect on the water temps? Also how much cooler did it keep the D5 since it's cooled by the loop anyways it's hard to see how much of a benefit if any it brings.
> Cheaper would be nicer. Dual option would be better. I bulked at $650 for two of them. No one else makes a decent dual pump/reservoir option, if you came out with a side by side option I'd buy instantly.


Also remember that the you got to use regular D5. The D5 Next won't work on them (the metal cooling base is the issue). Hence why you need to wait for there fan mounted one.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> We havent done enough testing with it to see about water temps in an overall system. But the D5 can run up to around 30w or so, and the heatsink is pulling that into the air, not into the liquid. You can definitely tell the difference if you run our res vs another res without it hooked up to a system. There the water temps are def different, though I don't remember off the top of my head.
> 
> As for the double, we'll do that eventually, lots of blocks to get to first


You guys got a lot of prioritizing of which products come out first.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Also remember that the you got to use regular D5. The D5 Next won't work on them (the metal cooling base is the issue). Hence why you need to wait for there fan mounted one.


If I went with Optimus I'd go with their pump as well. I still might. I'm not a fan of the next, I consider it a gimmick really. flow sensor or temp sensors aren't even close to accurate. The fan control and all that is nice to have but I don't need. The best aspect really is it's easier to route cables when you plug them into the pump. I don't like mounting things to my radiator fans and try and avoid that if I can.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> If I went with Optimus I'd go with their pump as well. I still might. I'm not a fan of the next, I consider it a gimmick really. flow sensor or temp sensors aren't even close to accurate. The fan control and all that is nice to have but I don't need. The best aspect really is it's easier to route cables when you plug them into the pump. I don't like mounting things to my radiator fans and try and avoid that if I can.


Totally. I don't use the flow meter (doesn't work for me) but what i have done is simply have an barrows digital temperature reader in system and use it to calibrate the difference. The cable management is a lot better i will say. Just redid my cabling and very pleased with the result on the lower chamber. I just installed the aquacompute flow meter in the new setup. Also saw PPCS now restocked SR2 360mm Rads, couldn't resist and ordered them in. Sure I got to rethink my extended top situation i got to get longer 6-32 screws to lock in the clips that hold the lid in with long plastic washers to hold them in. The big whole i can cover with something going forward.


----------



## Thebc2

Section31 said:


> Totally. I don't use the flow meter (doesn't work for me) but what i have done is simply have an barrows digital temperature reader in system and use it to calibrate the difference. The cable management is a lot better i will say. Just redid my cabling and very pleased with the result on the lower chamber. I just installed the aquacompute flow meter in the new setup. Also saw PPCS now restocked SR2 360mm Rads, couldn't resist and ordered them in. Sure I got to rethink my extended top situation i got to get longer 6-32 screws to lock in the clips that hold the lid in with long plastic washers to hold them in. The big whole i can cover with something going forward.




Definitely go 35mm for the screws for top rad mount if you have a fan sandwiched, and they need to be M4 and not 6-32 I believe. I recently did a very similar build w/ 4 360mm SR2 in a Caselabs M8 and pedestal.

Edit: here are the screws I used: (50) M4-0.7 x 35mm - Metric Phillips Pan Machine Screw (Type H) Black Oxide Oil - DIN 7985A - MonsterBolts (50, M4 x 35mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0786SDSLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8XwrFb9TE4CGG

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## skupples

can confirm, SR2 screws are a larger metric scale than XSPC/EK/Alphastool, and only come with enough for one side


----------



## Section31

Delete


----------



## Master Chicken

Shawnb99 said:


> Does the heatsink have any effect on the water temps? Also how much cooler did it keep the D5 since it's cooled by the loop anyways it's hard to see how much of a benefit if any it brings. Cheaper would be nicer. Dual option would be better. I bulked at $650 for two of them. No one else makes a decent dual pump/reservoir option, if you came out with a side by side option I'd buy instantly.


Not on point exactly, but I did notice the Ultitube now has a dual D5 pump block available that is similar (black Delrin) to the EKWB dual pump block. Not an integral mount with the reservoir, same as the EKWB version but a dual nonetheless.

You probably already know this, but on a pump like a D5, some heat is generated in the motor body due to it's approximately 80% efficiency while still more is injected into the water by the impeller itself ... not being 100% efficient. So a 37 watt max D5, running full out, is probably putting 7 watts into the pump body from the winding resistance and switching FET losses, while another 7 watts of heat is probably going into the water from the 75% efficient impeller. The balance of the energy is going to the movement of the water.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> can confirm, SR2 screws are a larger metric scale than XSPC/EK/Alphastool, and only come with enough for one side


Thanks Skrupples. Amazon is an saviour for screws, even Canadian site has good supply of screws.


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> can confirm, SR2 screws are a larger metric scale than XSPC/EK/Alphastool, and only come with enough for one side


Meanwhile I am dealing with Razer and they really screwed up badly (far worse than the people complaining about Optimus). I ordered an mouse on August 10th, it still hasn't come because it's been stuck at fedex depot because they didn't provide fedex with the information to properly get it through the border. In the meantime, I gave up and decided to just buy from amazon.ca. Fortunate i am just going to return the item to them.


----------



## Keith Myers

Problem was probably caused by insufficient tightening of the screws attaching the disruptor to the reservoir housing. If the areas under the attachment points were bright metal and the torque was sufficient in the fixing screws, there wouldn't be any galvanic potential on the disruptor and the copper sulfate wouldn't have precipitated out on the disruptor.


----------



## farpetrad

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, I'm back and the team is back in the office full time. Ugh, 2020, do not recommend
> 
> So we're back to shipping everything. We're a tiny company, so any personal/health/family issues hit us hard.
> 
> GPUs are being worked on right now, yes they've taken forever. It's the last 5% of performance we're tweaking to make sure it works in the best possible way. Yes, we'll upgrade anyone who wants to 3080/3090. We don't have access to early info, but we're making sure our block has the best performance and will adapt easily to the upcoming GPUs.
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the vortex breaker, the corrosion/deposits on the breaker is actually on the outside -- the breaker is picking up copper sulfate (we think) from the system, probably from chemicals used to clean the loop. We think it happens because the fluid is turbulent in the res and circles around the breaker.
> 
> Attached are the pics of the breaker you sent back to us. We sanded off the deposits. And you can see it's all nickel underneath. You can see where you did the scratch test on it. Super strange, I know, but seems like something is going on in the system that's causing buildup on the breaker.



Sorry to hear you got corona hopefully no lasting effects. I just don't think chemicals left over from cleaning is the problem. I cleaned the heck out of the radiators before putting the system back into use after re-installing the disruptor, which included more flushes than the Blitz kit says. As for the tightness of the screws, I screwed it down as tight as I could go before I started to fear cracks so it was on as tight as possible. I'm going to be tearing down the system this weekend to change out the fluid and will take the radiators out and flush them under the faucet but there should be nothing left in them chemical wise from the blitz kit. And like I said visually looking at everything in the system there is nothing else collecting these deposits. I was concerned with it on the first disruptor and it is quite annoying to be happening again but it could be worse and it does come off if I take it out which I will again.


----------



## MakubeX

MakubeX said:


> I've got my 2nd XT CPU and the delta between CCDs is practically exactly the same. So it could be the block. I just ordered the Retrofit Kit Socket AM4/3000 For my silver Cuplex Kryos from modmymods. We'll see what I get with that block. I'll report back once I get the kit.


Reporting back: The delta didn't really change with the other block. I finally ended up lapping the CPU itself and that did it. The delta was reduced to about 3C at load from 8C. The QA on these 3900XT must not be very good if I tried two of them and both had a similar delta between cores but got fixed with some "lapping" (wet sanding). Well, now I know.

The temps in the attached screenshot are while running the y-cruncher BBP (#11) stress test with a per CCX OC of 44-43.5-42.5-42.5 @ 1.300v get (SVI2 TFN). Not an impressive OC but just for context on the temps


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC For the 1/2" hardline fittings I can buy any 1/2" copper tubing from say Home depot and it'll work? No need to worry about ID or OD or anything, just get 1/2" tubing?


----------



## ThrashZone

farpetrad said:


> Sorry been away for a while after my mom passed. F**K Cancer....
> 
> It was my distruptor thing. The replacement suffered the same fate and is all torn up. Optimus fed me some reason blaming my system, saying it must be the ekwb radiators not being cleaned enough but I cleaned them with a 2nd round of mayhems part 2 before installing the replacement they sent. I let them know it was happening again and they haven't responded to me. I haven't torn things down yet but looking at both CPU and GPU block you can see both are perfectly fine and its just the disruptor thing.


Hi,
Thing with optimus on it is likely made of brass and nickle plated like most other items/ block.. so this should be happening to everything nickle :/
What fluid are you using sorry I missed this part mayhems x1 seeing you're using part 2 or are you just using distilled water ?


----------



## Shawnb99

Looking for 1/2” acrylic tubing is turning out to be near impossible to find any, besides Monsoon. 
After reading everything involved with bending copper tubing i likely made a big mistake grabbing the 1/2” fittings and am rethinking even going hardline now.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Looking for 1/2â€ acrylic tubing is turning out to be near impossible to find any, besides Monsoon.
> After reading everything involved with bending copper tubing i likely made a big mistake grabbing the 1/2â€ fittings and am rethinking even going hardline now.


Thats what i found out. Look at optimus reply to me couple months ago to help you find tubing. Otherwise return and get metric fittings


----------



## Optimus WC

Yes, we have metric fittings now. Just email us after ordering the normal fittings (until we get the ordering set back up). 

I'm not 100% sure about 1/2" copper pipe. I'd imagine the Primochill copper will work, since we use their 1.2" petg. I'd need to check OD dimensions of the available stock out there. 

Going back to the chemicals, radiators are really hard to clean, just rinsing won't do it. I worry about Blitz acids being in the tiny pockets of the channels. Bleeding a radiator can involve some extreme shaking to get the air out. So it's really, really hard to know what's going on in there. 

All our copper and nickel is done the exact same ways, the only thing we can think of is the res has water swirling around in it being the first source of contact after the radiators. Meaning, any itty bitty residuals in the res are hitting that vortex breaker and swirling around it first, before going into the rest of the loop. So, in a way, the breaker is acting like a filter for the rest of your system  Of course, all speculation, but seems somewhat logical.


----------



## Shawnb99

@optimuc WC what about Monsoon Hardline Tube 1/2 x 5/8. Would that work in the 1/2" hardline? What dimensions should I be looking for with my tubing?

Returning them would mean sending them back to PPC's, taking a restocking fee loss and then ordering a new set from Optimus. I'm likely looking at loosing $100 if not more that way, I'll see if I can resell them if I don't use them.


----------



## skupples

extreme shaking, or a tiny drop of degreasing soap.


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> @optimuc WC what about Monsoon Hardline Tube 1/2 x 5/8. Would that work in the 1/2" hardline? What dimensions should I be looking for with my tubing?
> 
> Returning them would mean sending them back to PPC's, taking a restocking fee loss and then ordering a new set from Optimus. I'm likely looking at loosing $100 if not more that way, I'll see if I can resell them if I don't use them.


Not sure, I'd need to measure the primochill petg. 

If you want metrics, send them back to us direct, we'll exchange, give ya a couple extra for free for all the PITA.


----------



## blackzaru

MakubeX said:


> Reporting back: The delta didn't really change with the other block. I finally ended up lapping the CPU itself and that did it. The delta was reduced to about 3C at load from 8C. The QA on these 3900XT must not be very good if I tried two of them and both had a similar delta between cores but got fixed with some "lapping" (wet sanding). Well, now I know.
> 
> The temps in the attached screenshot are while running the y-cruncher BBP (#11) stress test with a per CCX OC of 44-43.5-42.5-42.5 @ 1.300v get (SVI2 TFN). Not an impressive OC but just for context on the temps


How flat and at what grit did you stop sanding? (I ended up going up to 7000 grit to get my 1 degree or below CCD delta)


----------



## MakubeX

blackzaru said:


> How flat and at what grit did you stop sanding? (I ended up going up to 7000 grit to get my 1 degree or below CCD delta)


Ok flat, not amazingly. I stopped at 2K.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Not sure, I'd need to measure the primochill petg.
> 
> If you want metrics, send them back to us direct, we'll exchange, give ya a couple extra for free for all the PITA.


Sweet. Thanks for the offer I just might end up doing that if I can't get the copper to work. I'm going to see what copper tubing I can find locally this weekend and then plan my routing. I figure I should be able to find something similar to the Primochill copper. I may be able to get away using the softer copper piping for the few parts I need serious bends and then using the nicer straight copper for the straight runs.


----------



## farpetrad

ThrashZone said:


> farpetrad said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry been away for a while after my mom passed. F**K Cancer....
> 
> It was my distruptor thing. The replacement suffered the same fate and is all torn up. Optimus fed me some reason blaming my system, saying it must be the ekwb radiators not being cleaned enough but I cleaned them with a 2nd round of mayhems part 2 before installing the replacement they sent. I let them know it was happening again and they haven't responded to me. I haven't torn things down yet but looking at both CPU and GPU block you can see both are perfectly fine and its just the disruptor thing.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Thing with optimus on it is likely made of brass and nickle plated like most other items/ block.. so this should be happening to everything nickle 😕
> What fluid are you using sorry I missed this part mayhems x1 seeing you're using part 2 or are you just using distilled water ?
Click to expand...

I cleaned the radiators with part 1 origianally after doing distilled and Vinegar and it Not working followed by part 2. I use distilled and mayhems biocide+ and inhibitor+. Ph tested at 7.05 on fill of loop and is testing at 7.09 right now. 

When I replaced the disruptor I did another round of part 2 followed by 7 or 8 flushes with distilled and then a refil with distilled and the biocide and inhibitor.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, we have metric fittings now. Just email us after ordering the normal fittings (until we get the ordering set back up).
> 
> I'm not 100% sure about 1/2" copper pipe. I'd imagine the Primochill copper will work, since we use their 1.2" petg. I'd need to check OD dimensions of the available stock out there.
> 
> Going back to the chemicals, radiators are really hard to clean, just rinsing won't do it. I worry about Blitz acids being in the tiny pockets of the channels. Bleeding a radiator can involve some extreme shaking to get the air out. So it's really, really hard to know what's going on in there.
> 
> All our copper and nickel is done the exact same ways, the only thing we can think of is the res has water swirling around in it being the first source of contact after the radiators. Meaning, any itty bitty residuals in the res are hitting that vortex breaker and swirling around it first, before going into the rest of the loop. So, in a way, the breaker is acting like a filter for the rest of your system  Of course, all speculation, but seems somewhat logical.


Hi,
EK says blitz part 1 is not recommended to use and not compatible with their fluids.

Mayhems has deluded part 1 & 2 quite a bit over the past and it's bottle instructions are way more potent than the white paper in the box says to mix
Mayhems documentation is crap on both part 1 & 2, two is just more docile but yes is tough to get out I use a separate loop for rads so, yes I shake the hell out of the rads as the water flows through it and into another exterior container.
People trying to do this with rads mounted never really get all the air out or all the blitz out they just shoot for ph7 which is silly easy to get with crappy ph paper


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> EK says blitz part 1 is not recommended to use and not compatible with their fluids.
> 
> Mayhems has deluded part 1 & 2 quite a bit over the past and it's bottle instructions are way more potent than the white paper in the box says to mix
> Mayhems documentation is crap on both part 1 & 2, two is just more docile but yes is tough to get out I use a separate loop for rads so, yes I shake the hell out of the rads as the water flows through it and into another exterior container.
> People trying to do this with rads mounted never really get all the air out or all the blitz out they just shoot for ph7 which is silly easy to get with crappy ph paper


I just used 12 liters to flush all of part 2 from my loop


----------



## blackzaru

MakubeX said:


> Ok flat, not amazingly. I stopped at 2K.


Ah ok. Mine is literally mirror-finish level of flat and polished. (I'm talking, about: no matter the angle, it was not deforming object it was reflecting, even if I was at an angle smaller than 30 degrees from its surface.

I lapped (with incredibly light pressure, basically, just the CPU's own weight, and my hand guiding it) on 400 grit for over an hour (until nothing but copper showed), then 600 grit for nearly 30 minutes, then 20 minutes of 800, 1000, and 2000 grit. Once I got to 2500, 3000, 5000 and 7000 grit, I was doing 15 minutes passes, changing the sanding surface every 5 minutes.

All the lapping was done doing 8 shapes patterns, and rotating the cpu 90 degrees every 20-30 seconds. Everything was done on wet sandpaper.

It took me a bit more than an afternoon of doing that, whilst looking at some GamersNexus videos, but the result was stellar (imo).


----------



## farpetrad

ThrashZone said:


> Optimus WC said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, we have metric fittings now. Just email us after ordering the normal fittings (until we get the ordering set back up).
> 
> I'm not 100% sure about 1/2" copper pipe. I'd imagine the Primochill copper will work, since we use their 1.2" petg. I'd need to check OD dimensions of the available stock out there.
> 
> Going back to the chemicals, radiators are really hard to clean, just rinsing won't do it. I worry about Blitz acids being in the tiny pockets of the channels. Bleeding a radiator can involve some extreme shaking to get the air out. So it's really, really hard to know what's going on in there.
> 
> All our copper and nickel is done the exact same ways, the only thing we can think of is the res has water swirling around in it being the first source of contact after the radiators. Meaning, any itty bitty residuals in the res are hitting that vortex breaker and swirling around it first, before going into the rest of the loop. So, in a way, the breaker is acting like a filter for the rest of your system /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif Of course, all speculation, but seems somewhat logical.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> EK says blitz part 1 is not recommended to use and not compatible with their fluids.
> 
> Mayhems has deluded part 1 & 2 quite a bit over the past and it's bottle instructions are way more potent than the white paper in the box says to mix
> Mayhems documentation is crap on both part 1 & 2, two is just more docile but yes is tough to get out I use a separate loop for rads so, yes I shake the hell out of the rads as the water flows through it and into another exterior container.
> People trying to do this with rads mounted never really get all the air out or all the blitz out they just shoot for ph7 which is silly easy to get with crappy ph paper /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

I never used ek fluids just their crappy radiators. First run of part 2 was outside the case in a temp loop and everything was shaken like crazy and then flushed. 2nd time was in the case but flushed like crazy and tipped the case in every direction when filling and flushing to ensure no bubbles and a full flush. I washed the reservoir and pump with distilled before putting back into the loop when replacing the disruptor.


----------



## criskoe

Anyone direct died a 10900k with a foundation or V2 yet? Curious as to if the cold plate bow is too much due to not needing a ton of pressure and forming the cold plate. 

Just ordered a direct die kit from rockitcool and am needing a new block to replace a mag so I can clear the caps on these Asus boards.


----------



## carlouws

criskoe said:


> Anyone direct died a 10900k with a foundation or V2 yet? Curious as to if the cold plate bow is too much due to not needing a ton of pressure and forming the cold plate.
> 
> Just ordered a direct die kit from rockitcool and am needing a new block to replace a mag so I can clear the caps on these Asus boards.


I'm still not entirely sure that the Mag won't fit. Try the Mag first. I've seen the EK Velocity fit on Asus boards without issue and the mag and velocity have a really similar footprint. Is the 10900K taller or shorter than the 9900k?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Magnitude is a very low block so you'd likely have to use an all thread instead of it mounting studs and still likely won't go low enough because the mounting bracket are still to low.

Only new block is sigV2 might work it has enough bow in the cold plate to reach the die so optimus says.


----------



## anr11

shotround said:


> so undecided which res to get next. optimus or singularity... ive got time to mull it over though while the bank account recovers from the aquaero purchase.


I have both, though I haven't actually been able to put the optimus into use yet due to many, many build delays. If you can swing it, I would definitely recommend the optimus simply for its superior build quality. That is saying a lot as the singularity is no slouch. But the optimus is built like a tank and will last you over many builds.


----------



## Section31

anr11 said:


> I have both, though I haven't actually been able to put the optimus into use yet due to many, many build delays. If you can swing it, I would definitely recommend the optimus simply for its superior build quality. That is saying a lot as the singularity is no slouch. But the optimus is built like a tank and will last you over many builds.


There's also price to consider. For example in my case, an Optimus Reservoir likely costs 400Cad+ to bring where as the Aquacomputer/Heatkiller Tube (with multitop, etc) is under 250Cad. I can use the savings from that on new radiators,etc. Optimus wise, I would really buy there blocks and fittings atm. The Reservoir is definately quality but when budgetting for water builds (they only go up), reservoir is somewhere I would save budget wise.


----------



## chibi

I ordered a Sig v2 (Copper) on Jul 13th, received shipping notice Aug 28th with an eta of Sep 1st. Just an FYI for those of you still waiting for your order, that's my time line.


----------



## criskoe

carlouws said:


> I'm still not entirely sure that the Mag won't fit. Try the Mag first. I've seen the EK Velocity fit on Asus boards without issue and the mag and velocity have a really similar footprint. Is the 10900K taller or shorter than the 9900k?


It’s not the depth that’s the problem with the mag on Asus z390/490. It’s the width of the block. The mag is wider with its bulky Wide and low frame design. 

The Asus z390/490 have a row of caps on the left of the socket that with the stock IHS on the mag JUST clears. Remove the IHS and its gunna make contact with the caps for sure.


----------



## anr11

Section31 said:


> There's also price to consider. For example in my case, an Optimus Reservoir likely costs 400Cad+ to bring where as the Aquacomputer/Heatkiller Tube (with multitop, etc) is under 250Cad. I can use the savings from that on new radiators,etc. Optimus wise, I would really buy there blocks and fittings atm. The Reservoir is definately quality but when budgetting for water builds (they only go up), reservoir is somewhere I would save budget wise.


Yes, price is always a factor. That's why I said "if you can swing it" 

It is definitely worth the money, at least IMHO.


----------



## le-coq

Hey guys,

Just FYI

I'm a Canadian customer and made my order 2.5 months ago. Optimus and I have been in communication, and they explained exactly what was going on, and were working on my order. Though no promises were made, everything arrived in perfect shape, maybe two weeks later than I thought. Obviously, with the mayhem caused by the health situation, for me patience was easy.

Everything arrived at my door in two days, and this might be because I'm in a big (for Canada) city. I had to pay DHL for customs and duty, which is totally fine, and for me I prefer to have international shipments done by DHL. They're fast, have great tracking, and options. (Just on a small side note, I go out of my way to ask sellers to not use UPS "brown van" due to overcharging.)

Unboxing has been legit. Everything is well packed and the wait makes me feel like this is Christmas.

Just wanted to give my two cents - the quality is real and the wait was well worth it. Now, if only I could put this together at a high standard

(edit)

The wait time may vary from order to order. This order had fittings, a configured pump and reservoir, waterblock, and plugs. An order with just one category of goods, say a waterblock, might be faster.

(/edit)


----------



## le-coq

Quick Update:

System is complete, and tested to 2 PSI. Everything fit like a glove, especially the fittings with EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 3/8″-5/8″ ( 15,9/9,5mm ). The tubing was easy to fit onto the barbs, and very, very very difficult to remove. The screw-caps fit so nicely, and they feel great to torque on with your hand.

The process was smooth, designed repeatedly in my head, measured twice, cut once. This is a compliment towards the quality of the products, including EK's ZMT EPDM tubing. 

FYI - my radiators are from Heatkiller (going for silence and quality). I flushed them twice, but both times the water came out crystal clear with absolutely nothing that I could see.

I had to purchase some other fittings (T-junction, and a shutoff ball valve), so I chose Bitspower. I can't speak for the finish quality (though looks great), but I can say that the fittings from Bitspower and Optimus fit together perfectly. This is a testament to both companies.

So, if you can bear the wait, I highly recommend Optimus (and Heatkiller and Bitspower). Not only was the installation fun, but I am confident in the reliability, going forward, mostly due to the perfect fit of everything.


----------



## anr11

le-coq said:


> Quick Update:
> 
> System is complete, and tested to 2 PSI. Everything fit like a glove, especially the fittings with EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 3/8″-5/8″ ( 15,9/9,5mm ). The tubing was easy to fit onto the barbs, and very, very very difficult to remove. The screw-caps fit so nicely, and they feel great to torque on with your hand.
> 
> The process was smooth, designed repeatedly in my head, measured twice, cut once. This is a compliment towards the quality of the products, including EK's ZMT EPDM tubing.
> 
> FYI - my radiators are from Heatkiller (going for silence and quality). I flushed them twice, but both times the water came out crystal clear with absolutely nothing that I could see.
> 
> I had to purchase some other fittings (T-junction, and a shutoff ball valve), so I chose Bitspower. I can't speak for the finish quality (though looks great), but I can say that the fittings from Bitspower and Optimus fit together perfectly. This is a testament to both companies.
> 
> So, if you can bear the wait, I highly recommend Optimus (and Heatkiller and Bitspower). Not only was the installation fun, but I am confident in the reliability, going forward, mostly due to the perfect fit of everything.


Do you have any pics of the end result posted anywhere? It would be interesting to see.


----------



## Section31

le-coq said:


> Quick Update:
> 
> System is complete, and tested to 2 PSI. Everything fit like a glove, especially the fittings with EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 3/8″-5/8″ ( 15,9/9,5mm ). The tubing was easy to fit onto the barbs, and very, very very difficult to remove. The screw-caps fit so nicely, and they feel great to torque on with your hand.
> 
> The process was smooth, designed repeatedly in my head, measured twice, cut once. This is a compliment towards the quality of the products, including EK's ZMT EPDM tubing.
> 
> FYI - my radiators are from Heatkiller (going for silence and quality). I flushed them twice, but both times the water came out crystal clear with absolutely nothing that I could see.
> 
> I had to purchase some other fittings (T-junction, and a shutoff ball valve), so I chose Bitspower. I can't speak for the finish quality (though looks great), but I can say that the fittings from Bitspower and Optimus fit together perfectly. This is a testament to both companies.
> 
> So, if you can bear the wait, I highly recommend Optimus (and Heatkiller and Bitspower). Not only was the installation fun, but I am confident in the reliability, going forward, mostly due to the perfect fit of everything.


I really don't know about bitspower lately. I just had another complaint about them. The paint coat on the royal blue scratches off easily (fittings/brass tubing). I also had odd issue where one of the tubes literally got stuck in the optimus hard tube fittings. Took lot of force to take out. I am now debating going back to silver sparkle/black sparkle tubing. Quality control issue there. It's in addition to the recent cases of BP fittings ending stuck together and i can't remove it using the proper tool without risking destroying the matte black paint job. I got one T-Flow Splitter with male-male g1/4 stuck on end, one male-male g1/4 stuck to an 15mm g1/4 extender. Also many cases where some of the soft tube compression fittings literally get stuck so i can't unscrew the compression lid.

Heatkiller/Aquacomputer has been known to be very good brands for the longest time with Optimus now joining them. Meanwhile I highly reccomend the Optimus fittings.


----------



## Mxj1

Grab yourself one or two sets of these pliers for those stubborn fittings.

https://www.amazon.com/Tsunoda-PL-1...keywords=plastic+pliers&qid=1598970808&sr=8-7

...if I recall, you're in Canada. If you are, you should have something comparable as 'plastic pliers.'


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> Grab yourself one or two sets of these pliers for those stubborn fittings.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Tsunoda-PL-1...keywords=plastic+pliers&qid=1598970808&sr=8-7
> 
> ...if I recall, you're in Canada. If you are, you should have something comparable as 'plastic pliers.'


I got those special pliers but in metal.


----------



## darkangelism

i want the new 3000 GPU blocks, but won't preorder after the 2080 block timing


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> i want the new 3000 GPU blocks, but won't preorder after the 2080 block timing


It'll take them a year or two to build it, right when the 4000 GPUs come out. You know, just to squeeze out that last 0.00001% of performance.


----------



## aguyonurbudlist

My Absolute Block came! For those who are looking to approximate timing... Order: OP 2125 Placed: 6/25/2020 Arrived: 9/1/2020 Contained: Absolute TR3+ block - Clear Acrylic / Satin Black / Raw Copper


----------



## originxt

I'm pretty hyped to get the 3090 with an optimus block hopefully. Had worries about the size of the card but then I saw a leaked picture of the pcb. It's small as **** lol. Definitely need the block before the card goes in my case though, otherwise it won't fit.


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> I'm pretty hyped to get the 3090 with an optimus block hopefully. Had worries about the size of the card but then I saw a leaked picture of the pcb. It's small as **** lol. Definitely need the block before the card goes in my case though, otherwise it won't fit.[/QU
> 
> Optimus has to get ahold of one first, easier said than done with it supposely in extreme limited supply.


----------



## originxt

Section31 said:


> originxt said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty hyped to get the 3090 with an optimus block hopefully. Had worries about the size of the card but then I saw a leaked picture of the pcb. It's small as **** lol. Definitely need the block before the card goes in my case though, otherwise it won't fit.[/QU
> 
> Optimus has to get ahold of one first, easier said than done with it supposely in extreme limited supply.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah that's true. Maybe I can get a really long riser cable and sit the card outside in the meantime.
Click to expand...


----------



## chibi

The new 3 series pcb is dainty af. These cards under a water block will look like those "mini" cards. Not very aesthetically pleasing when compared to previous gen tbh.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, we're super excited about these new cards!! Much of the design work for the 2080 Ti adapts to the new cards. We do need to get CAD files and physical samples first, and that's a bit tricky until they launch. But once we get the goods, then we'll release blocks as soon as we can right after.

Now, we don't know the product mix yet. The notched Founders 3090 seems like a special edition that the partners (ASUS, Aorus, etc) won't be selling. Instead, they'll sell a reference version or their own versions. Again, we don't know yet if there is a fairly standard 3090 Reference PCB design like the 2080 Ti Reference. Or if every single card is unique. Once we know more, we'll update.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're super excited about these new cards!! Much of the design work for the 2080 Ti adapts to the new cards. We do need to get CAD files and physical samples first, and that's a bit tricky until they launch. But once we get the goods, then we'll release blocks as soon as we can right after.
> 
> Now, we don't know the product mix yet. The notched Founders 3090 seems like a special edition that the partners (ASUS, Aorus, etc) won't be selling. Instead, they'll sell a reference version or their own versions. Again, we don't know yet if there is a fairly standard 3090 Reference PCB design like the 2080 Ti Reference. Or if every single card is unique. Once we know more, we'll update.


I take it at this point, you are going straight to 3000 series and not doing 2080ti block anymore.


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> I take it at this point, you are going straight to 3000 series and not doing 2080ti block anymore.


We'll release the 2080 Ti block, it's finished and getting made right now. Just not the partner custom blocks at this point (kingpin, etc). Anyone who wants to upgrade to a new GPU block can do so.


----------



## darkangelism

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're super excited about these new cards!! Much of the design work for the 2080 Ti adapts to the new cards. We do need to get CAD files and physical samples first, and that's a bit tricky until they launch. But once we get the goods, then we'll release blocks as soon as we can right after.
> 
> Now, we don't know the product mix yet. The notched Founders 3090 seems like a special edition that the partners (ASUS, Aorus, etc) won't be selling. Instead, they'll sell a reference version or their own versions. Again, we don't know yet if there is a fairly standard 3090 Reference PCB design like the 2080 Ti Reference. Or if every single card is unique. Once we know more, we'll update.


I hope you at least do founders editions.


----------



## Section31

That's good to know. The people with 2080TI still can get there blocks.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> We'll release the 2080 Ti block, it's finished and getting made right now. Just not the partner custom blocks at this point (kingpin, etc). Anyone who wants to upgrade to a new GPU block can do so.


Also thanks for shipping out the xe-nickel cold plate so fast. Looks like you guys are slowly catching back up to orders.


----------



## Optimus WC

darkangelism said:


> I hope you at least do founders editions.


We're most likely going to do the Founders with the notched PCB. It's unclear though how long NVIDIA will sell that model, all the partner boards are normal. But that Founders is going to be an SFF monster, we'll prob do a single slot version.


----------



## darkangelism

Optimus WC said:


> We're most likely going to do the Founders with the notched PCB. It's unclear though how long NVIDIA will sell that model, all the partner boards are normal. But that Founders is going to be an SFF monster, we'll prob do a single slot version.


Yeah they might not sell them for long, but I still like the look a lot, and i f i have to have it in my system for a few months for waterblocks to come out I do have to look at it. I don't have a space issue with my thermaltake core x9, but a lot of the AIB only use the reference design on their lower binned chips. EVGA confirmed custom PCB for the FTW and kingpin editions, but the entry level XC3 is reference.


----------



## skupples

Optimus WC said:


> We'll release the 2080 Ti block, it's finished and getting made right now. Just not the partner custom blocks at this point (kingpin, etc). Anyone who wants to upgrade to a new GPU block can do so.



you know, it's a damn shame really. y'all have simply said that way too many times to know what weight it actually holds in reality & timescale.


----------



## Section31

darkangelism said:


> Yeah they might not sell them for long, but I still like the look a lot, and i f i have to have it in my system for a few months for waterblocks to come out I do have to look at it. I don't have a space issue with my thermaltake core x9, but a lot of the AIB only use the reference design on their lower binned chips. EVGA confirmed custom PCB for the FTW and kingpin editions, but the entry level XC3 is reference.


It will work well with my caselabs s8 too. However, it going to be really hard to get based on no pre-order.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> We're most likely going to do the Founders with the notched PCB. It's unclear though how long NVIDIA will sell that model, all the partner boards are normal. But that Founders is going to be an SFF monster, we'll prob do a single slot version.


That would look sweet on Caselabs S8 but i think the bigger issue is getting ahold of that model. If it's really an limited run and no pre-order, its going to be chaos getting ahold of the 3090 model.


----------



## Mxj1

Section31 said:


> I got those special pliers but in metal.


The plastic jaws will prevent you from marring the surface of the fitting.


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> The plastic jaws will prevent you from marring the surface of the fitting.


Thanks. I will change them out next time i need them. For now, its ok since i am changing to optimus fittings now.


----------



## darkangelism

Section31 said:


> It will work well with my caselabs s8 too. However, it going to be really hard to get based on no pre-order.


Yeah, i agree that it is going to be hard to get the 3090 has a quarter the inventory the 2080ti had and those sold out in 30 minutes, so i am probably going to "settle" for a 3080 and it still might be difficult to get, if i can't i will have to do my system with my current gpu since i want to get my 3700x installed.


----------



## Section31

darkangelism said:


> Yeah, i agree that it is going to be hard to get the 3090 has a quarter the inventory the 2080ti had and those sold out in 30 minutes, so i am probably going to "settle" for a 3080 and it still might be difficult to get, if i can't i will have to do my system with my current gpu since i want to get my 3700x installed.


I'm debating same issue. Worst for me (not ideal) is i continue on my 4800H + RTX2060 Laptop till ALderlake/Ryzen 6000. Sell off my 3950X/X570/Ram/One Nvme and save the cash for next year stuff. Hopefully Nvidia.com route works out as usual, I have my stuff entered in ready to go in fast.


----------



## Shawnb99

darkangelism said:


> Yeah, i agree that it is going to be hard to get the 3090 has a quarter the inventory the 2080ti had and those sold out in 30 minutes, so i am probably going to "settle" for a 3080 and it still might be difficult to get, if i can't i will have to do my system with my current gpu since i want to get my 3700x installed.


The 3090fe is going to limited? Great so no chance of getting one then since it'll be gone before I can refresh the page.

So no Kingpin or FTW3 blocks for the 2080ti's now, makes me hesitant to buy a 3090 kingpin if chances are you won't end up making blocks for them. Going to be hard deciding on what 3090 to buy now, though chances are I won't be able to get a FE if it's limited so the choice will likely be made for me


----------



## Optimus WC

We don't know what will happen with FE cards vs custom ones. 

For us, we're going to focus on GPUs like crazy. We've done a lot of the work to increase production, so our main brain is focusing on GPUs -- FE, customs, etc etc. As soon as we can get physical samples, we'll work on them.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC will you be doing Kingpin and FTW blocks for the 3090's? EVGA already announced the 3090 Kingpins so hope to see that in March or so.
FTW3/XC3 are said to be released on the 24th. The other models to follow


----------



## TK421

can't wait for the absolute d5 fan mount bracket


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC will you be doing Kingpin and FTW blocks for the 3090's? EVGA already announced the 3090 Kingpins so hope to see that in March or so.
> FTW3/XC3 are said to be released on the 24th. The other models to follow


Thats the rumor (from youtube moore law). We are seeing what happens. If nvidia opens up pre-orders then no issues

Just get an 3080 in meantime, 24gb is still on overkill side.


----------



## darkangelism

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC will you be doing Kingpin and FTW blocks for the 3090's? EVGA already announced the 3090 Kingpins so hope to see that in March or so.
> FTW3/XC3 are said to be released on the 24th. The other models to follow


EVGA is probably the best AIB so i hope they do their whole lineup


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Thats the rumor (from youtube moore law). We are seeing what happens. If nvidia opens up pre-orders then no issues
> 
> Just get an 3080 in meantime, 24gb is still on overkill side.



6 radiators, 4 pumps, 56 fans is also overkill, might as well embrace that theme.
Might even get two of them. We’ll see how long for a kingpin first.

Nvidia doesn’t seem to be letting preorders this time, at EVGA isn’t taking any atm. 

For me it’s either the FTW3 or kingpin


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thats the rumor (from youtube moore law). We are seeing what happens. If nvidia opens up pre-orders then no issues
> 
> Just get an 3080 in meantime, 24gb is still on overkill side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6 radiators, 4 pumps, 56 fans is also overkill, might as well embrace that theme.
> Might even get two of them. Weâ€™️ll see how long for a kingpin first.
> 
> Nvidia doesnâ€™️t seem to be letting preorders this time, at EVGA isnâ€™️t taking any atm.
> 
> For me itâ€™️s either the FTW3 or kingpin
Click to expand...

Watch his latest video. Ugly availablity and he highlights the samsung node issues (for long time). Might be q1 2021 before widely available. He even mentioned that rdna2 will be easier to get than ampere.


----------



## le-coq

Section31 said:


> I really don't know about bitspower lately. I just had another complaint about them. The paint coat on the royal blue scratches off easily (fittings/brass tubing). I also had odd issue where one of the tubes literally got stuck in the optimus hard tube fittings. Took lot of force to take out. I am now debating going back to silver sparkle/black sparkle tubing. Quality control issue there. It's in addition to the recent cases of BP fittings ending stuck together and i can't remove it using the proper tool without risking destroying the matte black paint job. I got one T-Flow Splitter with male-male g1/4 stuck on end, one male-male g1/4 stuck to an 15mm g1/4 extender. Also many cases where some of the soft tube compression fittings literally get stuck so i can't unscrew the compression lid.
> 
> Heatkiller/Aquacomputer has been known to be very good brands for the longest time with Optimus now joining them. Meanwhile I highly reccomend the Optimus fittings.


Ah yes, Heatkiller. I'm big on German brands so thanks for mentioning Aquacomputer 

I've used Bitspower just for the T-Junction and the ball valve, so the Bitspower parts are for drainage. I will keep in mind your experience with the scratching - maybe some of their parts would flake.


----------



## le-coq

anr11 said:


> Do you have any pics of the end result posted anywhere? It would be interesting to see.


I chose a bad day to post pictures. My mind is all on the 3000 series and thanks Optimus for updating us on your nVidia plans! I'm basically buying a new video card simply to throw in an Optimus GPU block, so Asus / Gigabyte / nVidia should all give you a referral fee 

Anyways, for my build the objective was

1.) Reliability
2.) Highest quality products I could find (did research other EDPM brands, like Goodyear, but was given the thumbs up for EKWB)
3.) Silence
4.) Looks - industrial/reliable look for me
5.) Cooling performance
6.) Building a water-cooled computer, which is one of my childhood dreams.

For now, the system is filled with distilled water but I've got a bunch of Koolance, also recommended to me. I did not want to try EKWB's or Mayhem's.

Optimus Parts:

CPU Waterblock, Pump/Reservoir, All Fittings (except for drain), All Plugs

Heatkiller:

Radiators. (To note, they arrived perfectly clean. The distilled water used to flush them out came out crystal clear to my eyes.)

If it wasn't for Optimus, everything Optimus would have instead been Heatkiller.

Bitspower:

T-Junction, Ball Valve

EKWB:

EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 3/8″-5/8″ ( 15,9/9,5mm ) ***This hose fits perfectly with Optimus' flex compression fittings.

Bykski:

GPU Block


----------



## WheresWally

MSI just posted a video that said, they are not allowed to take pre-orders and that NVidia will not be taking pre-orders. So ordering will appear to start on release day and no sooner.


----------



## Shawnb99

WheresWally said:


> MSI just posted a video that said, they are not allowed to take pre-orders and that NVidia will not be taking pre-orders. So ordering will appear to start on release day and no sooner.


Damn NVidia. this is just going be a nightmare now. Why they think pre-orders are bad I'll never understand. Likely little to no chance of getting one on launch now.


----------



## ciarlatano

Shawnb99 said:


> Damn NVidia. this is just going be a nightmare now. Why they think pre-orders are bad I'll never understand. Likely little to no chance of getting one on launch now.


Which is probably a good thing. There will be ridiculous prices initially, which will be somewhat less ridiculous a month later. For example, I got my 1080 and the block for it for ~$120 less than the card alone would have cost me at launch, and that was only two or three weeks after release.


----------



## Shawnb99

ciarlatano said:


> Which is probably a good thing. There will be ridiculous prices initially, which will be somewhat less ridiculous a month later. For example, I got my 1080 and the block for it for ~$120 less than the card alone would have cost me at launch, and that was only two or three weeks after release.


Well I'm buying the FTW or Kingpin haven't decided yet I doubt either will go down in price and then grabbing a block from Optimus if they are making them for those models. I'm not in a rush so I can wait till after launch, just won't be fun having to fight the mad rush every time more stock gets in.


----------



## Section31

le-coq said:


> anr11 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have any pics of the end result posted anywhere? It would be interesting to see.
> 
> 
> 
> I chose a bad day to post pictures. My mind is all on the 3000 series and thanks Optimus for updating us on your nVidia plans! I'm basically buying a new video card simply to throw in an Optimus GPU block, so Asus / Gigabyte / nVidia should all give you a referral fee /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> Anyways, for my build the objective was
> 
> 1.) Reliability
> 2.) Highest quality products I could find (did research other EDPM brands, like Goodyear, but was given the thumbs up for EKWB)
> 3.) Silence
> 4.) Looks - industrial/reliable look for me
> 5.) Cooling performance
> 6.) Building a water-cooled computer, which is one of my childhood dreams.
> 
> For now, the system is filled with distilled water but I've got a bunch of Koolance, also recommended to me. I did not want to try EKWB's or Mayhem's.
> 
> Optimus Parts:
> 
> CPU Waterblock, Pump/Reservoir, All Fittings (except for drain), All Plugs
> 
> Heatkiller:
> 
> Radiators. (To note, they arrived perfectly clean. The distilled water used to flush them out came out crystal clear to my eyes.)
> 
> If it wasn't for Optimus, everything Optimus would have instead been Heatkiller.
> 
> Bitspower:
> 
> T-Junction, Ball Valve
> 
> EKWB:
> 
> EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 3/8â€³-5/8â€³ ( 15,9/9,5mm ) ***This hose fits perfectly with Optimus' flex compression fittings.
> 
> Bykski:
> 
> GPU Block
Click to expand...




Shawnb99 said:


> ciarlatano said:
> 
> 
> 
> Which is probably a good thing. There will be ridiculous prices initially, which will be somewhat less ridiculous a month later. For example, I got my 1080 and the block for it for ~$120 less than the card alone would have cost me at launch, and that was only two or three weeks after release.
> 
> 
> 
> Well I'm buying the FTW or Kingpin haven't decided yet I doubt either will go down in price and then grabbing a block from Optimus if they are making them for those models. I'm not in a rush so I can wait till after launch, just won't be fun having to fight the mad rush every time more stock gets in.
Click to expand...

Nice rig. Thats one of the nice cases out there.
I always liked how heatkiller rads looked, me and my friends are waiting for there new radiators.

With what we know (good luck getting gpu), if its optimus gpu blocks. I am just going to ship to my friend down in seattle and whenever they visit family here they can bring it up sometime in early-mid 2021. I imagine the us border will reopen by then.

Try putting your name down at memexpress, canada computers wait list. Vancouver market is tough to get, we get limited supply but we have people who are willing to spend on computers.


----------



## Section31

le-coq said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I really don't know about bitspower lately. I just had another complaint about them. The paint coat on the royal blue scratches off easily (fittings/brass tubing). I also had odd issue where one of the tubes literally got stuck in the optimus hard tube fittings. Took lot of force to take out. I am now debating going back to silver sparkle/black sparkle tubing. Quality control issue there. It's in addition to the recent cases of BP fittings ending stuck together and i can't remove it using the proper tool without risking destroying the matte black paint job. I got one T-Flow Splitter with male-male g1/4 stuck on end, one male-male g1/4 stuck to an 15mm g1/4 extender. Also many cases where some of the soft tube compression fittings literally get stuck so i can't unscrew the compression lid.
> 
> Heatkiller/Aquacomputer has been known to be very good brands for the longest time with Optimus now joining them. Meanwhile I highly reccomend the Optimus fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah yes, Heatkiller. I'm big on German brands so thanks for mentioning Aquacomputer /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> I've used Bitspower just for the T-Junction and the ball valve, so the Bitspower parts are for drainage. I will keep in mind your experience with the scratching - maybe some of their parts would flake.
Click to expand...

No worries. I am trying out phantek too here good things about them and available at memexpress. Aquacomputer is well known for its fan controller stuff and flow sensors/temp sensors. Shawnb has whole system of them and me and my friends just ordered in there new flow/temp sensor. Most of my friends in last two years builds are using either aqua quadro or aq6lt fan controller and are using there d5 next pumps.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Try putting your name down at memexpress, canada computers wait list. Vancouver market is tough to get, we get limited supply but we have people who are willing to spend on computers.


We've only ever had two stores that I know that did WC. Least in the lower mainland and both went under years ago.  So many crap PC stores but none that did WC or anything even close to that.


----------



## Optimus WC

hey guys, yes we'll be making FTW and Kingpin blocks! We'll be reaching out to EVGA and the others to get samples, though super hard to say with quantities looking all crazy right now. 

Is everyone planning on 3090s? Or any requests for 3080 blocks? 

Also, we're doing LOTS OF FITTINGS. What are most desired? We'll start with non-rotary first, then do rotary.


----------



## Thebc2

3090 here for sure! And my Foundation block finally shipped! Hopefully tossing it in this weekend.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> hey guys, yes we'll be making FTW and Kingpin blocks! We'll be reaching out to EVGA and the others to get samples, though super hard to say with quantities looking all crazy right now.
> 
> Is everyone planning on 3090s? Or any requests for 3080 blocks?
> 
> Also, we're doing LOTS OF FITTINGS. What are most desired? We'll start with non-rotary first, then do rotary.


Please do 3080 blocks as well, for reference PCB designs as well as the more exotic ones like EVGA FTW/Kingpin or ASUS Strix.

I'll consider an Optimus GPU block if there is a reasonable development time (max of 2 months). But not holding my breath given your track record with the 2080 blocks.


----------



## dwolvin

seconded on 3080 FTW/Kingpin/Duke/whatever. I'll wait until someone is shipping binned 3080's but certainly want it in the loop...


----------



## Zurv

i'm getting 4 3090s (2 for each of my gaming systems.) Likely the FE version because those will be ez'r to get. @Optimus, how are planning to handle the ram on the back of the GPU? (3090s have ram on both sides of the PCB.)


----------



## sakete

Zurv said:


> i'm getting 4 3090s (2 for each of my gaming systems.) Likely the FE version because those will be ez'r to get.
> @Optimus, how are planning to handle the ram on the back of the GPU? (3090s have ram on both sides of the PCB.)


4? You have too much money. Send some my way bro.


----------



## Shawnb99

dwolvin said:


> seconded on 3080 FTW/Kingpin/Duke/whatever. I'll wait until someone is shipping binned 3080's but certainly want it in the loop...


Same getting one or two if I can. Knowing the mad rush i doubt I'll be lucky to snag a Kingpin. Would it be the same block for FTW/Kingpin?


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> hey guys, yes we'll be making FTW and Kingpin blocks! We'll be reaching out to EVGA and the others to get samples, though super hard to say with quantities looking all crazy right now.
> 
> Is everyone planning on 3090s? Or any requests for 3080 blocks?
> 
> Also, we're doing LOTS OF FITTINGS. What are most desired? We'll start with non-rotary first, then do rotary.


Thank you for listening to the community. I think its case of supply. Some 3090 people have no choice but to get 3080 with production yield issues.


----------



## dwolvin

Shawnb99 said:


> Same getting one or two if I can. Knowing the mad rush i doubt I'll be lucky to snag a Kingpin. Would it be the same block for FTW/Kingpin?


They won't be out right away, they are usually on custom PCB's for better power delivery / cooling. But I (as always) could be wrong this time!


----------



## Shawnb99

If it's the same block for the FTW/Kingpin I'll be ordering on launch then and Optimus can use that as a sample.


----------



## Shawnb99

dwolvin said:


> They won't be out right away, they are usually on custom PCB's for better power delivery / cooling. But I (as always) could be wrong this time!


FTW is set to be out at launch. Kingpin has no date yet.


----------



## Zurv

sakete said:


> 4? You have too much money. Send some my way bro.


feh.. this is a cheap upgrade. No more quad SLI for multi systems.
I was running 2080ti Kingpin SLI and RTX Titan SLI. (this last gen) $1500 per card? that is cheap!

(i sold my kingpins last week and that will pay for the replacement cards. but.. the Titans.. ugh.. they are now worthless... I'm not sure what to do with them. I might just give them to some of the guys that work for me. To sell them for $600-$700 would be painful.)


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> We've only ever had two stores that I know that did WC. Least in the lower mainland and both went under years ago.  So many crap PC stores but none that did WC or anything even close to that.


Well Memory Express is one of the better one just low inventory and selection. Canada Computer is really just the old NCIX (the same staff are there) and they took up the same shop as them lol. NCIX it was just an poorly run business hence why it went bankrupt. Linus more or less told us why they went out of business. They did carry nice stuff at one time. There's Mike Computer but its not really for water cooling. Watercooling parts in Canada sucks, we have to import from outside Canada all the time. Some of us have po boxes in the US for this express purpose. I don't but I got friends address to use so it's about the sam

Just couple months ago, I could go into Memory Express Vancouver/Richmond (used to) and they would know who I am. I do purchases from them for company and myself. It was pretty easy to get ahold of them and put my name down for items. Right now, its lot more difficult since lot of the people i dealt with are no longer there.


----------



## Ajeff401

I’d be in for a 3080 block depending on time of availability 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Optimus WC

BACK SIDE MEM: So the good news is we're already doing a back heatsink. We already have it mostly designed. We have other ideas in the works, though it really depends on what the final boards look like. And what kind of performance we can squeeze out of the new RAM. 

PRODUCTION: We've finished the first part of our upgrade, so we're faster with a big portion of our manufacturing. We're doing the next part of our upgrade, which will be done in about a month. Then we'll have 2-3x the output. So the Big Brains at Optimus are focused 90% on new GPU blocks. It's going to be a big portion of our business and we want to be on top of this. The delays will be entirely on how soon we can get samples and/or the CAD files. We're doing some scanning of the PCBs but it's not ideal. NVIDIA is always tight with their designs as well as the partners.


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> BACK SIDE MEM: So the good news is we're already doing a back heatsink. We already have it mostly designed. We have other ideas in the works, though it really depends on what the final boards look like. And what kind of performance we can squeeze out of the new RAM.
> 
> PRODUCTION: We've finished the first part of our upgrade, so we're faster with a big portion of our manufacturing. We're doing the next part of our upgrade, which will be done in about a month. Then we'll have 2-3x the output. So the Big Brains at Optimus are focused 90% on new GPU blocks. It's going to be a big portion of our business and we want to be on top of this. The delays will be entirely on how soon we can get samples and/or the CAD files. We're doing some scanning of the PCBs but it's not ideal. NVIDIA is always tight with their designs as well as the partners.


You'll definitely want to design 3080 blocks, as there will be more people buying 3080s than 3090s, along with the potential shortages for the 3090 (rumors are they will be in short supply). Probably more money to be made on the 3080 side, as well as an eventual 3080ti.


----------



## Optimus WC

Here's our back plate heat sink prototype. Solid machined aluminum, not stamped metal. It will also cool other toasty areas. We'll probably give you thermal pad options for what areas you want to cool. Unknown what kind of heights we'll see on the components on the back side of the upcoming GPUs.


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Here's our back plate heat sink prototype. Solid machined aluminum, not stamped metal. It will also cool other toasty areas. We'll probably give you thermal pad options for what areas you want to cool. Unknown what kind of heights we'll see on the components on the back side of the upcoming GPUs.


It looks fantastic. But you guys will need to deliver this time around


----------



## le-coq

Optimus WC said:


> hey guys, yes we'll be making FTW and Kingpin blocks! We'll be reaching out to EVGA and the others to get samples, though super hard to say with quantities looking all crazy right now.
> 
> Is everyone planning on 3090s? Or any requests for 3080 blocks?
> 
> Also, we're doing LOTS OF FITTINGS. What are most desired? We'll start with non-rotary first, then do rotary.


3080 for sure. 3090 is $$$ and would require me to buy a $$$$$ monitor 

I will wait for more fittings. Awesome!


----------



## Ajeff401

That would be a perfect fit in my build. If it’s ready when my 3080 arrives I’ll put in the order. I’m not going to hold off in hopes though


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## le-coq

Optimus WC said:


> Here's our back plate heat sink prototype. Solid machined aluminum, not stamped metal. It will also cool other toasty areas. We'll probably give you thermal pad options for what areas you want to cool. Unknown what kind of heights we'll see on the components on the back side of the upcoming GPUs.


That picture was like a shot of coffee right to my face (awkward). Really hoping for the Asus STRIX 3080 GPU Block option!


----------



## garyd9

It sounds like many AM4 block backorders are starting to be fulfilled. Is there finally actual stock of the blocks now? I don't want to place an order just to be placed on a long back order. (I'm thinking of a copper block with acrylic top.)


----------



## darkangelism

Optimus WC said:


> hey guys, yes we'll be making FTW and Kingpin blocks! We'll be reaching out to EVGA and the others to get samples, though super hard to say with quantities looking all crazy right now.
> 
> Is everyone planning on 3090s? Or any requests for 3080 blocks?
> 
> Also, we're doing LOTS OF FITTINGS. What are most desired? We'll start with non-rotary first, then do rotary.


i am getting whatever i can and 3080 is going to have way more stock.

The latest rumors are the stock of 3090 is under 1000 cards globally until Jan or Feb. That it is effectively a paper launch to hold off AMD. (no official source, but mixing a few different sources information)

Also that this initial stock is all that we are getting this year until they know what the yields from Samsung will be. https://www.tweaktown.com/news/7491...rds-tight-supply-until-end-of-year/index.html

A lot of people are going to be disappointed with the launch, these cards are going to sell out faster than any previous launch. Not to gatekeep what people buy but some of my friends are wanting to buy them and only game at 1080p 144, which is really unnecessary.


----------



## Mxj1

I'm in the 3080 boat.


----------



## dwolvin

@OptimusWC; I saw your soft tube fittings over on Reddit (with black ZMT tube), really nice looking!


----------



## alexsoxfan01

Optimus WC said:


> Here's our back plate heat sink prototype. Solid machined aluminum, not stamped metal. It will also cool other toasty areas. We'll probably give you thermal pad options for what areas you want to cool. Unknown what kind of heights we'll see on the components on the back side of the upcoming GPUs.


Will the backplate keep that glossy look or will be more of a matte look to match the foundation blocks and the reservoir? I would be a fan of them all matching, but maybe I'd be in the minority.


----------



## KCDC

Hey @ThrashZone


I know this topic has been beaten to death but since I am doing a rad swap and tube replacement this weekend on my main workstation, I'll be cleaning out my Sig V2. Fully remove the center o-ring or shave it? I thought I read in another thread removing it may impede the cooling a bit. If I am shaving it, flush with the fin indents? I know mine bulges, and I still get 6-10C diff on some cores on sim loads, so this has to be why. Thanks.


----------



## ThrashZone

KCDC said:


> Hey @ThrashZone
> 
> 
> I know this topic has been beaten to death but since I am doing a rad swap and tube replacement this weekend on my main workstation, I'll be cleaning out my Sig V2. *Fully remove the center o-ring or shave it? *I thought I read in another thread removing it may impede the cooling a bit. *If I am shaving it, flush with the fin indents?* I know mine bulges, and I still get 6-10C diff on some cores on sim loads, so this has to be why. Thanks.


Hi,
Optimus said they didn't see any difference by removing o-ring completely 

I preferred to just shave it flush with the body where the o-ring inserts into, too easy but not all the way across I left the curved ends alone so water doesn't go that direction just along the cooling fins area where flow is best directed. have to :kungfu: it to death instead


----------



## KCDC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Optimus said they didn't see any difference by removing o-ring completely
> 
> I preferred to just shave it flush with the body where the o-ring inserts into, too easy but not all the way across I left the curved ends alone so water doesn't go that direction just along the cooling fins area where flow is best directed. have to :kungfu: it to death instead


Thank you


----------



## Optimus WC

KCDC said:


> I know this topic has been beaten to death but since I am doing a rad swap and tube replacement this weekend on my main workstation, I'll be cleaning out my Sig V2. Fully remove the center o-ring or shave it? I thought I read in another thread removing it may impede the cooling a bit. If I am shaving it, flush with the fin indents? I know mine bulges, and I still get 6-10C diff on some cores on sim loads, so this has to be why. Thanks.





KCDC said:


> Thank you


So don't shave the o-ring, it's not precise  Remove the o-ring if you want to have the cold plate flat. It'll conform to the shape of the jet slot. There is no impeded cooling by removing it, that's a bad rumor  And no change in flow. Use the o-ring as a way to change the shape of the cold plate. Don't shave it please lol



alexsoxfan01 said:


> Will the backplate keep that glossy look or will be more of a matte look to match the foundation blocks and the reservoir? I would be a fan of them all matching, but maybe I'd be in the minority.


It'll be matching  What is shown is a prototype in raw aluminum.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> So don't shave the o-ring, it's not precise  Remove the o-ring if you want to have the cold plate flat. It'll conform to the shape of the jet slot. There is no impeded cooling by removing it, that's a bad rumor  And no change in flow. Use the o-ring as a way to change the shape of the cold plate. Don't shave it please lol
> .


Hi,
These marks do not lie, o-ring absolutely narrows the area water flows.
Shave/ remove is personal preference and if you have a razor blade handy


----------



## KCDC

I was planning on just removing it, just in case since I don't have others. CYA where I can. 


@Optimus WC thank you also for chiming in. Can't mess this up, WFH requires my machine these days!


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> These marks do not lie, o-ring absolutely narrows the area water flows.
> Shave/ remove is personal preference and if you have a razor blade handy


For more detail, the center o-rings push out the cold plate, making the cold plate convex. Removing the o-ring makes the cold plate flat. Shaving it just does what removing the o-ring does, but adds the potential for other complications. 

As for flow rate, the o-ring is inconsequential, the fins make marks but the durometer is so hard the rubber doesn't compress into the fins themselves.


----------



## criskoe

Optimus WC said:


> For more detail, the center o-rings push out the cold plate, making the cold plate convex. Removing the o-ring makes the cold plate flat. Shaving it just does what removing the o-ring does, but adds the potential for other complications.
> 
> As for flow rate, the o-ring is inconsequential, the fins make marks but the durometer is so hard the rubber doesn't compress into the fins themselves.


By removing the oring on the foundation, do you think it will make the cold plate flat enough for A nice contact with a direct die on a 10900k?


----------



## Diffident

I'd like a 3080 FTW copper block with a black backplate.  No shiny silver colors for me.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> For more detail, *the center o-rings push out the cold plate, making the cold plate convex. Removing the o-ring makes the cold plate flat.* Shaving it just does what removing the o-ring does, but adds the potential for other complications.
> 
> As for flow rate, the o-ring is inconsequential, the fins make marks but the durometer is so hard the rubber doesn't compress into the fins themselves.


Hi,
This passed wrong by so much it's stunning you have no clue about your own product or still hallucinating from covid19 :doh:
*A soft rubber o-ring* in no way creates even a little convex/ bow in the cold plate
The ends of body of the block does lol


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> This passed wrong by so much it's stunning you have no clue about your own product or still hallucinating from covid19 :doh:
> *A soft rubber o-ring* in no way creates even a little convex/ bow in the cold plate
> The ends of body of the block does lol


Just because there are marks doesn't mean there isn't pressure applied and bow created


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Just because there are marks doesn't mean there isn't pressure applied and bow created


Hi,
lol okay what it creates 0.0000001 :wheee:


----------



## cluster edge

On AMD Foundation bowing with o-ring is clearly visible with bare eye. Just FYI. Maybe on Sig it's less visible but due to thin coldplate its obvious


----------



## Section31

What's more interesting is what is actually Optimus going to make GPU block wise. Apparently Nvidia Founders are not reference PCB so finding block for them will be limited. Nobody knows what is actually reference PCB either.


----------



## darkangelism

Section31 said:


> What's more interesting is what is actually Optimus going to make GPU block wise. Apparently Nvidia Founders are not reference PCB so finding block for them will be limited. Nobody knows what is actually reference PCB either.


 they said they would try to do founders and EVGA


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> they said they would try to do founders and EVGA


 @OptimusWC can you confirm this? Particularly the EVGA piece?


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> hey guys, yes we'll be making FTW and Kingpin blocks! We'll be reaching out to EVGA and the others to get samples, though super hard to say with quantities looking all crazy right now.
> 
> Is everyone planning on 3090s? Or any requests for 3080 blocks?
> 
> Also, we're doing LOTS OF FITTINGS. What are most desired? We'll start with non-rotary first, then do rotary.



Here's the latest on them saying they will make EVGA blocks.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> Here's the latest on them saying they will make EVGA blocks.


Hmmm. So at least 6 months from now it sounds like. Currently too much confusion on which boards are reference PCB, and if there even is such a thing now. EVGA allegedly said there are no reference PCBs this time.


----------



## garyd9

30x0 blocks? Vaporware. 

They can't even project when they'll have a bread-and-butter CPU block actually available for shipping and everyone is lining up for GPU blocks for a GPU that doesn't even exist yet outside of a few nvidia partners.

Don't get me wrong - I accept that Optimus makes great products. When they actually make and ship them. I'd have already ordered a CPU block for my 3900x if anyone could tell me when I'd actually get one delivered. 

Personally, I think optimus needs to stop making promises for the future until they are capable of delivering in the present.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Optimus WC said:


> Here's our back plate heat sink prototype. Solid machined aluminum, not stamped metal. It will also cool other toasty areas. We'll probably give you thermal pad options for what areas you want to cool. Unknown what kind of heights we'll see on the components on the back side of the upcoming GPUs.


very nice "me gusta"


----------



## asdf893

I ordered my Optimus AM4 block a month ago, finally received a response 1 week ago acknowledging that there's still no ETA.


----------



## garyd9

I actually got a response from the optimus "contact us" page after inquiring about intel blocks. No signature blocks available, but I was told that they do have non-signature intel blocks available for shipping. I ordered an acrylic/black aluminum/copper block for a new i9... Hopefully it'll get shipped out tomorrow (Thursday) and be delivered Saturday (USPS Priority.)

I'm hoping I made the right choice of block - I couldn't find much information comparing water blocks on the new 10th gen intel CPU's with their longer die. (I also had to order more X1.)

From reading earlier posts, I'm confused on the guidance in regards to the o-ring in the optimus blocks on 10th gen intel chips. To be clear, with the intel factory IHS attached and unmodified, should I remove the center o-ring of the block?


----------



## Wenty

asdf893 said:


> I ordered my Optimus AM4 block a month ago, finally received a response 1 week ago acknowledging that there's still no ETA.



I'm in the same boat.


----------



## le-coq

Wenty said:


> I'm in the same boat.


My order (cpu block, pump, fittings in two colors) arrived in 2.5 months (arrived two weeks ago). On forums and Reddit I had seen that people had made orders and eventually received them.

Wouldn't have changed anything. But in my case, there was really no rush.


----------



## asdf893

asdf893 said:


> I ordered my Optimus AM4 block a month ago, finally received a response 1 week ago acknowledging that there's still no ETA.


Update/clarification:


ordered August 4th, 2020 Foundation CPU Block - AMD - Acrylic + Black Aluminum / Raw Copper × 1
received email Aug 28th, 2020 stating no ETA.
received email Sep 8th, 2020 stating "We're hoping to ship your order by the end of next week." which would be Friday Sep 18th, 2020.


----------



## Ashcroft

zGunBLADEz said:


> Bittech guy about optimus xD


Lol I've been away from this thread for ages so only just saw this. This guy is dead on!

I don't know how anyone can read some of the nonsense on the Optimus site with a straight face. I pointed it out before but just a real simple example,
"Additionally, we only CNC our G1/4” ports, never thread tap. Thread tapping is the industry standard because it’s easy and any budget drill press can do it."
Thread tapping is the industry standard is it? So they take block parts off the CNC machines they are being made on, over to a drill press for a manual process when thread machining is one of the most simple and basic functions of a CNC machine?
Of course they don't. Its a complete and utter lie. It is transparently aimed to make any other brand seem like a backyard operation and to deceive the reader that they Optimus alone have some secret superior CNC-fu.

There are many other examples of outright lies and absurd claims.

The people pushing this brand in the forums come across not as fanboys but as full PR staff members.

Is everyone still hyped for their 2080ti blocks? Lol
How much 'extra testing' will the new ones need?

I haven't seen anything like it for years.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Ashcroft said:


> Lol I've been away from this thread for ages so only just saw this. This guy is dead on!
> 
> I don't know how anyone can read some of the nonsense on the Optimus site with a straight face. I pointed it out before but just a real simple example,
> "Additionally, we only CNC our G1/4” ports, never thread tap. Thread tapping is the industry standard because it’s easy and any budget drill press can do it."
> Thread tapping is the industry standard is it? So they take block parts off the CNC machines they are being made on, over to a drill press for a manual process when thread machining is one of the most simple and basic functions of a CNC machine?
> Of course they don't. Its a complete and utter lie. It is transparently aimed to make any other brand seem like a backyard operation and to deceive the reader that they Optimus alone have some secret superior CNC-fu.
> 
> There are many other examples of outright lies and absurd claims.
> 
> The people pushing this brand in the forums come across not as fanboys but as full PR staff members.
> 
> Is everyone still hyped for their 2080ti blocks? Lol
> How much 'extra testing' will the new ones need?
> 
> I haven't seen anything like it for years.


yeah they sent me the check later in person bcuz im from chicago too if you havent notice it yet...

everything else you said.. Is promotion!!!! of course they have to make them looks good thats what you have to do when you try to sell a product everything else otherwise "my data" is in this very topic... I beat that block to no end with a overclocked 7980xe *((nobody else in here or out there including review sites like the one mention it))* did the kind of abuse that block got from my part... 

guess what? it perform and then some..


----------



## sakete

Ashcroft said:


> Lol I've been away from this thread for ages so only just saw this. This guy is dead on!
> 
> I don't know how anyone can read some of the nonsense on the Optimus site with a straight face. I pointed it out before but just a real simple example,
> "Additionally, we only CNC our G1/4” ports, never thread tap. Thread tapping is the industry standard because it’s easy and any budget drill press can do it."
> Thread tapping is the industry standard is it? So they take block parts off the CNC machines they are being made on, over to a drill press for a manual process when thread machining is one of the most simple and basic functions of a CNC machine?
> Of course they don't. Its a complete and utter lie. It is transparently aimed to make any other brand seem like a backyard operation and to deceive the reader that they Optimus alone have some secret superior CNC-fu.
> 
> There are many other examples of outright lies and absurd claims.
> 
> The people pushing this brand in the forums come across not as fanboys but as full PR staff members.
> 
> Is everyone still hyped for their 2080ti blocks? Lol
> How much 'extra testing' will the new ones need?
> 
> I haven't seen anything like it for years.


It's typical extravagant American marketing. Nothing new under the sun.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, to jump in and address some of these comments:


In liquid cooling, acrylic threads cracking is a big problem. This isn't us saying so, it's general knowledge that acrylic blocks crack.
But that shouldn't be the case, right? Giant aquariums and more are made of acrylic.
So why is water cooling plagued by bad acrylic? It's not because of the liquid, it's because of A) low grade materials and B) bad machining.
Thread tapping is a fast way to do threads on a milltap type CNC mill.
Thread milling is also common, but it's hard to explain why it doesn't always work out right. 
Also, not all acrylic is the same. Some use extruded (bad), some use generic cast (better), some use premium grade cast (optimus).
After all, if companies thread milled correctly, people wouldn't have their acrylic cracking all the time. Yes?
So our blocks are extremely crack resistant, as people have discovered. It's proven and not marketing BS to point out why. 
As for claims and marketing, we back everything up. We've been around almost a year now, and we've shipped a lot of blocks. We've backed up our claims with even the most jaded
And, yes, the 2080ti has taken for-ev-eeeeer. So many reasons. And it's like everything we do, we want it to be perfect. The Threadripper block was in the same boat. But the extra engineering time was worth it, in our opinion. And the opinion of people who have gotten theirs and tested them, it's the best out there. 
We've figured out GPU block performance in a similar way. Lots of new details to share. And we're happy about the 3000 series, they're upping the power big time. Which means bigger cooling, so we're more than ready...in many ways.
Right now, we're just doing everything we can to get our hands on samples and CAD files to do the final work needed, otherwise the rest is figured out. 
Anyway, happy to answer questions, as always.


----------



## Shawnb99

FTW3 3090 block!! If you got a my release day sample is a block by December asking to much?


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> FTW3 3090 block!! If you got a my release day sample is a block by December asking to much?


Ah! So temping  we're going to do the FTW block, but unsure of timing, don't want to over promise and under deliver. We're finalizing our overall GPU design right now, it's 99% complete and insanely good thermal results, which will apply to every block going forward. But with FTW (and Strix, etc) we don't know how crazy the PCBs are gonna get. So the big optimus brain will need to see how it's looking and then make an informed call if we can get one out by then. We'll keep updating for sure


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Ah! So temping  we're going to do the FTW block, but unsure of timing, don't want to over promise and under deliver. We're finalizing our overall GPU design right now, it's 99% complete and insanely good thermal results, which will apply to every block going forward. But with FTW (and Strix, etc) we don't know how crazy the PCBs are gonna get. So the big optimus brain will need to see how it's looking and then make an informed call if we can get one out by then. We'll keep updating for sure


I thought the gpu block was 99.9999999999999% complete. Now it's only 99.0%?

Ugh...


----------



## Optimus WC

sakete said:


> I thought the gpu block was 99.9999999999999% complete. Now it's only 99.0%?
> 
> Ugh...


Good catch. We're 100% - 0.000000000000000001% done.


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Good catch. We're 100% - 0.000000000000000001% done.


If you guys are also going to build an EVGA 3080 FTW3 block, and it will be available in a reasonable time frame (say 2 months), I'd be a customer.

If I can get my hands on one at launch next week, I'd even consider shipping it over so you can make your measurements and start building the block.


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> If you guys are also going to build an EVGA 3080 FTW3 block, and it will be available in a reasonable time frame (say 2 months), I'd be a customer.
> 
> If I can get my hands on one at launch next week, I'd even consider shipping it over so you can make your measurements and start building the block.


I'm down to do the same. Reasonable time frame for me would be around the same time Hydrocopper or EK or anyone else has blocks out.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> I'm down to do the same. Reasonable time frame for me would be around the same time Hydrocopper or EK or anyone else has blocks out.


Yeah, it'd definitely need to be a reasonable time frame. So far they definitely have a rep of overpromising and underdelivering. Though I guess once the actual product is out it does perform well.


----------



## originxt

I wonder if the 3090 would benefit from a backplate with active cooling with heat pipe like this? Backplate für kryographics NEXT RTX 2080 Ti / Titan RTX, aktiv XCS

Just unsure if passive cooling via backplate and thermal pads are enough but of course, I don't know how much heat gddr6x actually puts out.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Good catch. We're 100% - 0.000000000000000001% done.


The wait more bearable anyways. Supply chain is tight.


----------



## garyd9

My Intel foundation showed up this morning and I just finished installing it on an i9-10850K. I have one suggestion for Optimus on the install: 

The knurled nuts that are used to tighten the block down should be modified in one of two ways: Either cut slots for a screw driver head (or a hex key) on the top of them, or shape them in a way that a nut driver can be used to turn them. On some motherboards (Asus Maximus XII Hero, for example), areas around the CPU socket get very crowded with VRM heatsinks and I found it extremely difficult to tighten down the block properly. There just wasn't enough room to get my fingers around the nuts. 

Another suggestion is to document what size hex key is needed to disassemble the block (to remove the inner gasket.) I found that it wasn't metric at all, and it doesn't seem to be an extremely common Imperial size, so I ended up NOT taking the gasket out. 

Otherwise, the quality seems fine. I was surprised that there weren't any non-metallic washers to put between the metal parts and the motherboard, but Intel (and AMD) dictates that only ground plane can be in those areas anyway. From a purely engineering point of view, I wonder if large diameter plastic washer would spread the compression stresses on the PCB, but that probably won't matter if I'm not moving the machine all around. 

I really can't offer any opinion on the performance, as I changed my loop around to add a radiator when I installed the block, so temps will all be different.

Take care
Gary


----------



## Thebc2

garyd9 said:


> My Intel foundation showed up this morning and I just finished installing it on an i9-10850K. I have one suggestion for Optimus on the install:
> 
> The knurled nuts that are used to tighten the block down should be modified in one of two ways: Either cut slots for a screw driver head (or a hex key) on the top of them, or shape them in a way that a nut driver can be used to turn them. On some motherboards (Asus Maximus XII Hero, for example), areas around the CPU socket get very crowded with VRM heatsinks and I found it extremely difficult to tighten down the block properly. There just wasn't enough room to get my fingers around the nuts.
> 
> Another suggestion is to document what size hex key is needed to disassemble the block (to remove the inner gasket.) I found that it wasn't metric at all, and it doesn't seem to be an extremely common Imperial size, so I ended up NOT taking the gasket out.
> 
> Otherwise, the quality seems fine. I was surprised that there weren't any non-metallic washers to put between the metal parts and the motherboard, but Intel (and AMD) dictates that only ground plane can be in those areas anyway. From a purely engineering point of view, I wonder if large diameter plastic washer would spread the compression stresses on the PCB, but that probably won't matter if I'm not moving the machine all around.
> 
> I really can't offer any opinion on the performance, as I changed my loop around to add a radiator when I installed the block, so temps will all be different.
> 
> Take care
> Gary


100% agree regarding the knurled nuts.

I did get (8) plastic washers with my intel foundation block and used them on both sides of the motherboard. That being said they weren’t shown anywhere in the included instructions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## nowarranty

Will be searching this thread when I get home, but I'm curious if anyone who actively participates here can let me know in advance if I can actually expect a more than negligible performance different going from an old EK supremacy block to a newer block like the optimus.


----------



## ciarlatano

nowarranty said:


> Will be searching this thread when I get home, but I'm curious if anyone who actively participates here can let me know in advance if I can actually expect a more than negligible performance different going from an old EK supremacy block to a newer block like the optimus.


Some details on your rig would go a long way toward getting relevant answers. Results will vary greatly depending on what is around it and whatnot will be cooling.


----------



## Optimus WC

Regarding the thumb nuts, the reason we didn't include a hex or torx head is because it's then too easy to absolutely go gorilla mode on the block and hurt the motherboard. Because the way it's designed, finger tight is the best, though I know it can be tricky in some scenarios. 

On our Threadripper block, we've started a new system that uses the Threadripper torx key that puts exactly 1.5nm torque on the nuts, so it's a perfect system. but 1.5nm is too much for standard mobos, so we need to figure that out and then source the torque keys to make install perfect. It's something we can tackle after the GPU madness. 

As for Optimus performance vs other older blocks, you'll see the biggest improvements when: pushing big overclocks, running D5 pumps, hotter chips and more powerful systems. You won't see much improvement if you don't overclock or run quiet, ddc sff systems.


----------



## nowarranty

ciarlatano said:


> Some details on your rig would go a long way toward getting relevant answers. Results will vary greatly depending on what is around it and whatnot will be cooling.


definitely agree, sorry posted earlier in a rush

Chip is 3900x with 2 480mm radiators, though the ek supremacy is actually doing very well. even with very high voltages under load for stress tests im not seeing past 70-75C in a 22-23C ambient. Not sure I could justify $80-140 for another block without a realistic gain. 

i know the potential is far greater than something like a thermal paste application difference, but being a soldered is there much headroom for a difference? will that higher fin density covering the chiplets actually end up in a cooling performance? 

at another point i would probably have splurged on a new block, but with the way things are now i'm trying to keep it to a need rather than want.


----------



## Optimus WC

nowarranty said:


> definitely agree, sorry posted earlier in a rush
> 
> Chip is 3900x with 2 480mm radiators, though the ek supremacy is actually doing very well. even with very high voltages under load for stress tests im not seeing past 70-75C in a 22-23C ambient. Not sure I could justify $80-140 for another block without a realistic gain.
> 
> i know the potential is far greater than something like a thermal paste application difference, but being a soldered is there much headroom for a difference? will that higher fin density covering the chiplets actually end up in a cooling performance?
> 
> at another point i would probably have splurged on a new block, but with the way things are now i'm trying to keep it to a need rather than want.


Oh yeah you'd definitely see a performance gain, and it shouldn't be a little. There are a lot of results people have had here with a similar setup. On this page we've listed a lot of them with the reference links: Foundation CPU Block - AMD

That said, we're backordered on AM4 blocks, they've been crazy popular. But we're working hard to get those orders out in the next week.


----------



## garyd9

Optimus WC said:


> ..


I think you might have missed this question when you answered about the knurled nuts: Can you please tell me what size hex key I should use to open the intel optimus foundation block (to remove the o-ring)? I installed it with the o-ring, but next time I drain the loop, I might want to pull it out and I'd like to be prepared..


----------



## Optimus WC

Ah, yes, sorry about that. We use imperial because _America_. The CPU screws are 7/64.


----------



## CAL V

Just got the new mounting posts for my Foundation block, thanks to Matt from Optimus WC for taking care of me.

Arrived here in Malaysia in less than a month, can't wait to get rid of the bowing on my motherboard and have more consistency in mounting.


----------



## acoustic

I may have missed this in the thread, but is there any expectation for a WB to be made for the 3090 FE? I know the focus has primarily been CPU blocks, but I'd really like to run a Optimus WB for both CPU+GPU when I build my custom loop


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah gpu waterblock availability is a fragile topic lol


----------



## zGunBLADEz

nowarranty said:


> Will be searching this thread when I get home, but I'm curious if anyone who actively participates here can let me know in advance if I can actually expect a more than negligible performance different going from an old EK supremacy block to a newer block like the optimus.


i have a test done with a Ek Evo all nickel its my 3rd worst result over all 4 blocks i used lol


----------



## nowarranty

zGunBLADEz said:


> i have a test done with a Ek Evo all nickel its my 3rd worst result over all 4 blocks i used lol


yesterday it took me a good 10 minutes to learn how to search in the threads on this new layout. i saw some posts about tests and didn't make it to the results.
this block i have is probably 5+ years old, i didnt expect it to work so well but it's definitely better than the stock air cooler! 
i'm going to wait until these optimus blocks are in stock, or maybe until a good sale is going on and buy a newer block designed for ryzen. i would love to see 3-5c degree drop under load, not sure if that would be realistic. also not sure i would be satisfied with 1-3c


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

OVERALL GPU PROGRESS: The two big hurdles are complete: 1) optimizing our overall GPU block design and 2) getting back to biz after covid chaos.
3080/90 FOUNDERS WATER BLOCKS: Yes, we'll definitely make blocks for these cards. We're working on trying to get samples, NVIDIA isn't making this easy. Once we have the cards, then best bet is we'll have copper waterblocks ready to ship within two weeks (nickel takes longer)
3080/90 REFERENCE WATER BLOCKS: We thought these would be first, but it's very unclear what "reference" even means in this release. So far, cards that look reference are not. The first run cards like the TUF, EVGA and Gigabyte Eagle are not ref. Maybe only zotac has a true ref. So unlike previous gens where every brand had a few ref designs, it's unclear if anyone will have ref.
3080/90 CUSTOM WATER BLOCKS: It's appearing that this generation will be dominated by the custom cards. The two most requested cards are the Strix and FTW. But will Strix be the same PCB as TUF? And is FTW same as Hybrid and Kingpin? And how insane will the designs actually end up? Will there be chokes the size of baby carrots? No one knows.


----------



## acoustic

Awesome, thanks for the info. I appreciate you guys! Looking forward to have my 3090 FE (hopefully FE) under a Optimus block


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> OVERALL GPU PROGRESS: The two big hurdles are complete: 1) optimizing our overall GPU block design and 2) getting back to biz after covid chaos.
> 3080/90 FOUNDERS WATER BLOCKS: Yes, we'll definitely make blocks for these cards. We're working on trying to get samples, NVIDIA isn't making this easy. Once we have the cards, then best bet is we'll have copper waterblocks ready to ship within two weeks (nickel takes longer)
> 3080/90 REFERENCE WATER BLOCKS: We thought these would be first, but it's very unclear what "reference" even means in this release. So far, cards that look reference are not. The first run cards like the TUF, EVGA and Gigabyte Eagle are not ref. Maybe only zotac has a true ref. So unlike previous gens where every brand had a few ref designs, it's unclear if anyone will have ref.
> 3080/90 CUSTOM WATER BLOCKS: It's appearing that this generation will be dominated by the custom cards. The two most requested cards are the Strix and FTW. But will Strix be the same PCB as TUF? And is FTW same as Hybrid and Kingpin? And how insane will the designs actually end up? Will there be chokes the size of baby carrots? No one knows.



So 2 week turn around for the FE blocks can you say the same for the FTW3? If you can one out in 6 weeks I'll gladly send you the card to be used as a sample.


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> So 2 week turn around for the FE blocks can you say the same for the FTW3? If you can one out in 6 weeks I'll gladly send you the card to be used as a sample.


It's really hard to say for the custom cards. Lots of moving pieces to get there. For example, if we're slammed with FE orders, then we won't have as much time for the custom cards. But if more people are waiting for custom and FE isn't very popular, then we'll focus on custom. 

And appreciate the offer! We're making contact direct with EVGA this week. We really need the PCB CAD files to get it done quick, otherwise it's days of tiny measurements


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> OVERALL GPU PROGRESS: The two big hurdles are complete: 1) optimizing our overall GPU block design and 2) getting back to biz after covid chaos.
> 3080/90 FOUNDERS WATER BLOCKS: Yes, we'll definitely make blocks for these cards. We're working on trying to get samples, NVIDIA isn't making this easy. Once we have the cards, then best bet is we'll have copper waterblocks ready to ship within two weeks (nickel takes longer)
> 3080/90 REFERENCE WATER BLOCKS: We thought these would be first, but it's very unclear what "reference" even means in this release. So far, cards that look reference are not. The first run cards like the TUF, EVGA and Gigabyte Eagle are not ref. Maybe only zotac has a true ref. So unlike previous gens where every brand had a few ref designs, it's unclear if anyone will have ref.
> 3080/90 CUSTOM WATER BLOCKS: It's appearing that this generation will be dominated by the custom cards. The two most requested cards are the Strix and FTW. But will Strix be the same PCB as TUF? And is FTW same as Hybrid and Kingpin? And how insane will the designs actually end up? Will there be chokes the size of baby carrots? No one knows.


Well, I hope you guys are for real this time and will not be saying "two weeks" for six months. And I'm obviously biased, but would love to see blocks for the FTW, as that's the one I'll try to get. EVGA doesn't void warranty when installing custom blocks, and the base model for EVGA, the XC3, appears to be using a modified reference PCB (it's quite a bit longer than the reference PCB), so might as well get a fully custom PCB then with better power delivery and VRMs.

If you guys can really deliver this time, on time, you'll have a customer here. Already using your Foundation AM4 block which works great, and I like the no nonsense look of Optimus blocks.


----------



## sakete

To you experienced watercooling folk, is it better to use a copper cold plate or nickel? Currently using a nickel plate in my AM4 Foundation block, but debating switching to copper. Also less risk of potential nickel flaking I guess, even though Optimus claims that's not a risk with their plating process.


----------



## chibi

I've had EK and Heatkiler Nickel plating flake on me for CPU blocks. This time around, I ordered the Optimus Sig v2 in copper. Going copper for GPU block as well once the 3 series cards are out.


----------



## garyd9

sakete said:


> is it better to use a copper cold plate or nickel?


They are (usually) both copper... the nickel is just a plating. 

The nickel plating is usually more visually appealing (it stays shiny)

Optimus claims on their website that the nickel plating can help discourage etching if using a liquid metal TIM (I have no experience with that. I also don't know if the etching has any performance impact.)

Plain copper will oxidize (blacken) over time, though this shouldn't change thermal characteristics. 

The nickel plating might be a very slight insulator (but if it is, it's to a very minuscule degree. I've never compared a pure copper to nickel plated block.)

Plain copper might be easier to clean. (I don't know if the Optimus nickel plating can handle cleaning chemicals, but EK's nickel plating certainly can't.)

Personally, after dealing with EK's plating for years, I selected plain copper for my optimus block. If it turns black, I'm perfectly okay with that as long as it gives the best possible cooling. Anyway, if it's good enough for the best radiators, it should be good enough for a cold plate. I've never seen a nickel plated radiator (and probably couldn't afford one if it existed.)


----------



## darkangelism

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> OVERALL GPU PROGRESS: The two big hurdles are complete: 1) optimizing our overall GPU block design and 2) getting back to biz after covid chaos.
> 3080/90 FOUNDERS WATER BLOCKS: Yes, we'll definitely make blocks for these cards. We're working on trying to get samples, NVIDIA isn't making this easy. Once we have the cards, then best bet is we'll have copper waterblocks ready to ship within two weeks (nickel takes longer)
> 3080/90 REFERENCE WATER BLOCKS: We thought these would be first, but it's very unclear what "reference" even means in this release. So far, cards that look reference are not. The first run cards like the TUF, EVGA and Gigabyte Eagle are not ref. Maybe only zotac has a true ref. So unlike previous gens where every brand had a few ref designs, it's unclear if anyone will have ref.
> 3080/90 CUSTOM WATER BLOCKS: It's appearing that this generation will be dominated by the custom cards. The two most requested cards are the Strix and FTW. But will Strix be the same PCB as TUF? And is FTW same as Hybrid and Kingpin? And how insane will the designs actually end up? Will there be chokes the size of baby carrots? No one knows.


I originally was going to try to get an EVGA FTW3 first and Founders Edition second, but the rumors that Nvidia kept the best binned chips for the FE and that it is going to be the cheapest one has shifted me in that direction for which site I go to first on Thursday morning


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> I originally was going to try to get an EVGA FTW3 first and Founders Edition second, but the rumors that Nvidia kept the best binned chips for the FE and that it is going to be the cheapest one has shifted me in that direction for which site I go to first on Thursday morning


Yeah, but you'll void your warranty removing the stock cooler. Good luck with that if the card fails. And Nvidia uses Digital River for their after sales support, so good luck with that too. 

I'd rather not have the best chip but at least be able to watercool it without voiding warranty.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> Yeah, but you'll void your warranty removing the stock cooler. Good luck with that if the card fails. And Nvidia uses Digital River for their after sales support, so good luck with that too.
> 
> I'd rather not have the best chip but at least be able to watercool it without voiding warranty.


They can't legally void the warranty for it. I know they might fight it, but as long as I don't trash my stock cooler they won't know. 4 Nvidia reps said it was fine and only one said it wasn't. 
The FTW3 is going to be $100-150 more than the FE as well.


----------



## Optimus WC

NICKEL PLATING: So our nickel is completely safe to use, it's actually not much of a mystery. There are two types of nickel: electroplated and electroless. Electroplated is the shiny chrome-like stuff. Electroless is industrial. Our Pro-XE is a variety of electroless designed for liquid cooling. But really, unless it's electroless, it'll corrode very quickly in water. The advantage of electroplated is it looks really good and is super easy to manufacture, it'll cover over blemishes and look super shiny. But it's also thick, so it won't be perfectly flat. That's why we don't do full nickel blocks with mirror finishes on the outside. It's just not quality. We use both copper and nickel in our loops with zero problems. After all, home depot plumbing doesn't break down in a few months, liquid cooling shouldn't either 

GPUS: Based on the power designs, the aftermarket cards will most likely perform much better, especially with liquid. The Founders is a cool design, but it doesn't have nearly the overbuilt power design of the other cards like Strix and FTW. And the OC potential is really impressive. Of course, this is all speculation, but it wouldn't make sense that the Founders is a class above the top custom cards.


----------



## Shawnb99

darkangelism said:


> I originally was going to try to get an EVGA FTW3 first and Founders Edition second, but the rumors that Nvidia kept the best binned chips for the FE and that it is going to be the cheapest one has shifted me in that direction for which site I go to first on Thursday morning



Aren't the FE cards 2x 8pin compared to 3x on the FTW and Strix? Wouldn't that make those the higher binned cards or least higher power limit. That's why I'm grabbing one over the FE


----------



## Section31

Hope its real. Saves us headaches on block side


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> Aren't the FE cards 2x 8pin compared to 3x on the FTW and Strix? Wouldn't that make those the higher binned cards or least higher power limit. That's why I'm grabbing one over the FE


I'm gonna have like 20 tabs open on my browser come Thursday morning for the FTW, and as backup, the Strix. All on various shops.

And yeah, the FE is I think 2x 8pin into a 12pin adapter.


----------



## darkangelism

Shawnb99 said:


> Aren't the FE cards 2x 8pin compared to 3x on the FTW and Strix? Wouldn't that make those the higher binned cards or least higher power limit. That's why I'm grabbing one over the FE


Yeah good point, guess i am back on evga



sakete said:


> I'm gonna have like 20 tabs open on my browser come Thursday morning for the FTW, and as backup, the Strix. All on various shops.
> 
> And yeah, the FE is I think 2x 8pin into a 12pin adapter.


yeah i am doing the same, 2 computers on different internet and my phone


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> NICKEL PLATING: So our nickel is completely safe to use, it's actually not much of a mystery. There are two types of nickel: electroplated and electroless. Electroplated is the shiny chrome-like stuff. Electroless is industrial. Our Pro-XE is a variety of electroless designed for liquid cooling. But really, unless it's electroless, it'll corrode very quickly in water. The advantage of electroplated is it looks really good and is super easy to manufacture, it'll cover over blemishes and look super shiny. But it's also thick, so it won't be perfectly flat. That's why we don't do full nickel blocks with mirror finishes on the outside. It's just not quality. We use both copper and nickel in our loops with zero problems. After all, home depot plumbing doesn't break down in a few months, liquid cooling shouldn't either
> 
> GPUS: Based on the power designs, the aftermarket cards will most likely perform much better, especially with liquid. The Founders is a cool design, but it doesn't have nearly the overbuilt power design of the other cards like Strix and FTW. And the OC potential is really impressive. Of course, this is all speculation, but it wouldn't make sense that the Founders is a class above the top custom cards.


I hope you guys get some inspiration from ekwb founders gpu block. Interesting g1/4 port placement 








EKWB Demos Waterblock for GeForce RTX 3080/3090 FE Cards: Half-Length Single-Slot?


EKWB looking to cut dimensions of Nvidia’s GeForce RTX 30 Founders Edition with its waterblock




www.google.com


----------



## zGunBLADEz

@OptimusWC please DO NOT do this mistake..... like for real....


----------



## Shawnb99

That thing is ugly. I want a big hunk of copper


----------



## chibi

Looks like a glorified universal block with a slab of plexi tacked on top. Pass.


----------



## Avacado

chibi said:


> Looks like a glorified universal block with a slab of plexi tacked on top. Pass.


Yep, They bet on enthusiasts wanting Argeebee over copper.


----------



## darkangelism

Well FTW3 cards are not going to be available on Thursday

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1305894136159940608


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Thought I was the only copper freak


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> Well FTW3 cards are not going to be available on Thursday
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1305894136159940608


Well that sucks. Heard the Strix also will not be available on Thursday.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> Well that sucks. Heard the Strix also will not be available on Thursday.


yeah he said in a different tweet it should be in the next few days, but still makes waiting risky because they might not announce when exactly and the other brands may sell out. 

Strix and Aorus master and xtreme not at launch either, just msi trio x and FE and lower end models like the EVGA XC3. This launch is a mess. I really want to finish my build and get my bundled Assasins creed valhalla with my 3700X before the offer expires and don't really want to have to use my 970 for a few more months while I wait on a 3080/3090.


----------



## darkangelism

Voodoo Rufus said:


> 3090 Kingpin with an Optimus copper/acetal block sounds nice.


It does, but i am scared about the price, for the 2080ti the kingpin was $700 more than the base 2080ti so $2200 for the 3090 before buying a block?


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

On second thought, maybe I don't want a wallet/record breaking card!


----------



## zGunBLADEz

darkangelism said:


> who was doing preorders?



B&H have one on preorder since the 11 hoping they dont cancel it im going to try newegg this morning see if i can get the same for less but lets see

after reviews im avoiding nvidia fe cards they are seriously starved of power 3-5% max overclock headroom like wth


----------



## criskoe

I saw somewhere that the FE models have a 375W limit and rumour is the “reference models” have a 350W limit. So they most likely will preform and overclock no better then FE models. Might even be worse. The 3X8 pin models like FTW3 and strix ect. Will be needed if your concerned about such power limits.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

that makes no sense if power limit is 20% it will be possible if is only 10% tho


----------



## criskoe

zGunBLADEz said:


> that makes no sense if power limit is 20% it will be possible if is only 10% tho




__
https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/ityk25


----------



## zGunBLADEz

yes remember 20+ pl which is an overclock GIMP by nvidia would get it to enforce it..
Im not looking nothing special on the AiB cards you still have 2x8pins 300w + pci ex power 75w + 20% PL

a 3rd 8 pin with a "xoc unlocked bios" would put the card over 500-550w then some

im not looking forward for that but anything over the fe would be a better choice at this moment

this is the same behavior on since 1080 was released nothing changed on 2000 series and is even worst now.. the card would do all the magic sauce for you lol

adding a 3rd pin and unlocked xoc bios would not change that..


----------



## criskoe

zGunBLADEz said:


> yes remember 20+ pl which is an overclock GIMP by nvidia would get it to enforce it..
> Im not looking nothing special on the AiB cards you still have 2x8pins 300w + pci ex power 75w + 20% PL
> 
> a 3rd 8 pin with a "xoc unlocked bios" would put the card over 500-550w then some
> 
> im not looking forward for that but anything over the fe would be a better choice at this moment


yeah no for sure. I hear ya.
I hate to say it tho. I wouldn’t be surprised if Nvidia purposely gimped AIB reference cards with design rules so that they don’t out preform their FE models. Any non reference models will most likely give you what you want. Just so confusing right now which is “true reference“and which is modified “reference“


----------



## zGunBLADEz

criskoe said:


> yeah no for sure. I hear ya.
> I hate to say it tho. I wouldn’t be surprised if Nvidia purposely gimped AIB reference cards with design rules so that they don’t out preform their FE models. Any non reference models will most likely give you what you want. Just so confusing right now which is “true reference“and which is modified “reference“


im trying to get the msi ventus on b&h for $676 if i manage to get it, i cancel my tuf i save almost $90 bucks if i get free shipping as it have a shorter pcb supposedly boosts upto 1800mhz it looks more like "this references" they talking about the pcb its about the same height as the pci bracket which im acustom to


----------



## zGunBLADEz

now you can achieve the same pushing a bit more on 2x8pins using a xoc bios still you just need to be very careful i saw my 980ti with unlocked modified bios with 1x8 and 1x6 doing 450-500watts so its possible still draw of the sillicon lottery tho lol


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Guess 3080/ 3090 and 3080/ 3090 super was too straight forward for little better chips ?
Good thing I'm not in a hurry lol lets the dust settle


----------



## criskoe

zGunBLADEz said:


> im trying to get the msi ventus on b&h for $676 if i manage to get it, i cancel my tuf i save almost $80 bucks as it have a shorter pcb supposedly boosts upto 1800mhz it looks more like "this references" they talking about the pcb its about the same height as the pci bracket which im acustom to


nice.
I just saw a post over on reddit of people actually lining up at stores hours ago. Lol. The guy said at that time there was already like 10 Peeps camped out. 

id Love to order right out the gate. But I’ve decided to wait till I see all the waterblock options and then Choose.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

criskoe said:


> nice.
> I just saw a post over on reddit of people actually lining up at stores hours ago. Lol. The guy said at that time there was already like 10 Peeps camped out.
> 
> id Love to order right out the gate. But I’ve decided to wait till I see all the waterblock options and then Choose.


i have a few koolance 220 universal gpu blocks which are the best of the best universal cooling gpus out there no question asked.... got them on ebay for $40 bucks all 3 of them ....
if i get to the water itching theres nothing out there fullblock or not that beats them trust me i have abuse them lol
have also a few china vrm blocks on my pile for the vrms XD


----------



## criskoe

MSI Ventus is available right now on newegg.ca in Canada.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
After the 20 series bs with msi cards not being able to flash vbios without a fan connected msi is off the gpu list.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

yeah in newegg would cost me the same as the tuf on b&h after taxes tho


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> After the 20 series bs with msi cards not being able to flash vbios without a fan connected msi is off the gpu list.


easy fix short ground XD thats what i do on server fans with 6pins


----------



## criskoe

i personally wanted to get a evga XC3 but evgaJacob confirmed recently that It uses a modified reference pcb. So I was a little worried that full cover blocks might never come for it.


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> easy fix short ground XD thats what i do on server fans with 6pins


Hi,
Yeah but still not water block friendly


----------



## darkangelism

criskoe said:


> i personally wanted to get a evga XC3 but evgaJacob confirmed recently that It uses a modified reference pcb. So I was a little worried that full cover blocks might never come for it.


They will have the hydrocopper that they make for it


----------



## darkangelism

well newegg just crashed


----------



## ThrashZone

darkangelism said:


> well newegg just crashed


Hi,
Scrambled


----------



## criskoe

darkangelism said:


> They will have the hydrocopper that they make for it


how good usually are the hydro copper blocks performance wise compared to tops blocks?


----------



## darkangelism

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Scrambled


hahaha


----------



## ThrashZone

criskoe said:


> how good usually are the hydro copper blocks performance wise compared to tops blocks?


Hi,
Design is straight forward 
Only block I've seen that either port can be used as inlet is a hydro copper.
Performance probably minimal difference between evga and heatkiller/ ek...


----------



## darkangelism

everything down


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> everything down


Yeah, what a surprise. It's like a massive DDOS attack, except this time not from bots.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> Yeah, what a surprise. It's like a massive DDOS attack, except this time not from bots.


Nvidia should have just allowed preorders


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> Nvidia should have just allowed preorders


Nah, why make it easy for people. Guess it'll be a few months before I get a 3080 then.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> Nah, why make it easy for people. Guess it'll be a few months before I get a 3080 then.


rumors of a 20GB version launching to counter amd are heating up, so might be better anyway


----------



## zGunBLADEz

all those pascal users trying to get ahold of a 3080 lol


----------



## zGunBLADEz

darkangelism said:


> rumors of a 20GB version launching to counter amd are heating up, so might be better anyway


that would be 2gb modules expect to pay for that it aint worth it lol


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> rumors of a 20GB version launching to counter amd are heating up, so might be better anyway


The EVGA site just loaded for the first time in 10 minutes, and still showing out of stock. So either all of it got scooped up already (most likely), or it's not up yet.


----------



## sakete

And on Best Buy they're now sold out. Yeah, that's it. Throwing in the towel, not gonna sit around all morning.


----------



## darkangelism

zGunBLADEz said:


> all those pascal users trying to get ahold of a 3080 lol


i still have a 970


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> And on Best Buy they're now sold out. Yeah, that's it. Throwing in the towel, not gonna sit around all morning.


Hi,
They always list like that lol they just add the listing before they get an item.


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> They always list like that lol they just add the listing before they get an item.


No, it was first showing as "Notify me", and then after a refresh it showed "Sold Out".


----------



## darkangelism

i have an XC3 in my cart on evga but can't get to the checkout


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> i have an XC3 in my cart on evga but can't get to the checkout


Same. You'd think they'd temporarily expand server capacity. This happens every time.


----------



## darkangelism

jayz2cents review of the evga XC3 had it slower than the FE by 1 or 2 fps


----------



## criskoe

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 CUSTOM Graphics Cards Review Roundup - VideoCardz.com


Reviews of CUSTOM NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 graphics card Yesterday NVIDIA lifted the embargo on GeForce RTX 3080 Founders Edition. Today the embargo on custom designs officially lifts. Starting from now you can also order the first Ampere-based graphics card. Custom NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080...




videocardz.com





nice little list of links of custom AIB reviews.


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> jayz2cents review of the evga XC3 had it slower than the FE by 1 or 2 fps


Insignificant if you ask me.


----------



## criskoe

darkangelism said:


> jayz2cents review of the evga XC3 had it slower than the FE by 1 or 2 fps


yeah I just saw that. Lol Hahahahah. so Bad.


----------



## sakete

Yes! I got one. Just got the confirmation email. XC3 Ultra. Hopefully add a waterblock from Optimus within a reasonable timeframe and OC as much as possible. I think I'll just skip the FTW3 since it's such a pain to get one.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> Yes! I got one. Just got the confirmation email. XC3 Ultra. Hopefully add a waterblock from Optimus within a reasonable timeframe and OC as much as possible. I think I'll just skip the FTW3 since it's such a pain to get one.


Nice Congrats i never was able to make it through checkout
i am going to try for the ftw3 drop later


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> Nice Congrats i never was able to make it through checkout
> i am going to try for the ftw3 drop later


Bummer. Hopefully FTW3 goes better for you.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> Bummer. Hopefully FTW3 goes better for you.


Yeah, it is teaing me because it still shows in my cart on the few times the page loads, i have it auto refreshing every minute now.
I expected this to happen and was more annoyed at the PS5 preorder because they said they would give warning and then didn't.


----------



## acoustic

I had the XC3 Ultra in my cart, but every time I tried to go to checkout, it would fail. I originally wanted a 3090, but was willing to settle with the 3080 XC3 Ultra until the 3090 FTW3 Ultra comes out or I snag a 3090 FE.


----------



## Section31

darkangelism said:


> Yeah, it is teaing me because it still shows in my cart on the few times the page loads, i have it auto refreshing every minute now.
> I expected this to happen and was more annoyed at the PS5 preorder because they said they would give warning and then didn't.


The retailers botched up and sold them early. The expensive model was available for couple hours.


----------



## originxt

Based on the 3080 launch, I wish optimus luck in securing cards for their block design.


----------



## darkangelism

originxt said:


> Based on the 3080 launch, I wish optimus luck in securing cards for their block design.


I think their best chance is some of us sending them cards to borrow.


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> I think their best chance is some of us sending them cards to borrow.


Yeah, I'll be sending my XC3 once I've received it and tested it to make sure it's not DOA.


----------



## originxt

Honestly, even with the lower end AIB boards performing the way they are, I am unsure how much room these cards have for OC. Might just desperately try to get the 3090 FE and send it over to optimus assuming no one else is. Shunt mod by der8auer net like 1-2 fps increase on the ASUS TUF 3080. I can't imagine the higher end boards really doing much more.


----------



## sakete

originxt said:


> Honestly, even with the lower end AIB boards performing the way they are, I am unsure how much room these cards have for OC. Might just desperately try to get the 3090 FE and send it over to optimus assuming no one else is. Shunt mod by der8auer net like 1-2 fps increase on the ASUS TUF 3080. I can't imagine the higher end boards really doing much more.


For me it's more about noise and thermals than getting the best OC. I can play a game without a jet engine blowing in my case when it's all watercooled


----------



## dwolvin

Yep! Especially with the lower OC headroom. Seems likely there will be no real-world gains worth mentioning. (to me >5% fps = who cares)


----------



## Keith Myers

dwolvin said:


> Yep! Especially with the lower OC headroom. Seems likely there will be no real-world gains worth mentioning. (to me >5% fps = who cares)


Definitely well worth it for me since my application is not gaming in the first place. Crunching is my focus and the improved IPC and double FP32 throughput should produce a significant increase in production. Know that I am a 0.5% user though and am just biding my time until actual water cooled stock is available so I can mount 3 or 4 of the 3080's in my PC's.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> For me it's more about noise and thermals than getting the best OC. I can play a game without a jet engine blowing in my case when it's all watercooled


Yeah same with me, a silent system is why I watercool.


----------



## darkangelism

originxt said:


> Honestly, even with the lower end AIB boards performing the way they are, I am unsure how much room these cards have for OC. Might just desperately try to get the 3090 FE and send it over to optimus assuming no one else is. Shunt mod by der8auer net like 1-2 fps increase on the ASUS TUF 3080. I can't imagine the higher end boards really doing much more.


he did shunt a 2X8 pcie power card, i wonder if a 3X8 will have a different result, the one he shunted is reading half of what the one he didn't shows, which is 148W for the 8 pin, basically max, so still seems like it is only drawing the 375W either way


----------



## originxt

darkangelism said:


> he did shunt a 2X8 pcie power card, i wonder if a 3X8 will have a different result, the one he shunted is reading half of what the one he didn't shows, which is 148W for the 8 pin, basically max, so still seems like it is only drawing the 375W either way


GN is doing a live stream, 3 pin on evga software is maxing at about 400 watts. I think the cards themselves have to be pretty close to maxed. Probably need a XOC bios and a card willing to work with that. Really curious if the FE cards can pull 600~ like originally thought.


----------



## sakete

originxt said:


> GN is doing a live stream, 3 pin on evga software is maxing at about 400 watts. I think the cards themselves have to be pretty close to maxed. Probably need a XOC bios and a card willing to work with that. Really curious if the FE cards can pull 600~ like originally thought.


FTW3 has 420W power limit max confirmed on twitter by EVGA rep
 https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1306756154496700416


----------



## darkangelism

originxt said:


> GN is doing a live stream, 3 pin on evga software is maxing at about 400 watts. I think the cards themselves have to be pretty close to maxed. Probably need a XOC bios and a card willing to work with that. Really curious if the FE cards can pull 600~ like originally thought.


He seemed to indicate there was a trick to unlocking it when he had evga jacob on the phone but wasn't allowed to show it.




sakete said:


> FTW3 has 420W power limit max confirmed on twitter by EVGA rep
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1306756154496700416


Gonna need to bypass that to really max the card. Now i am curious what my card now pulls with my custom bios ok i tested my 970 1535Mhz


----------



## originxt

Managed to snag one. PNY GeForce RTX 3090 24GB XLR8 Gaming EPIC-X RGB Triple Fan Edition Unsure what pcb this is. Reference? Unsure if I'll keep or not. Really want a better 3090.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

the 420w limit wouldnt be enough... once you are in that range that extra wattage are just crumbs :/


I was doing almost 500w on a 980ti fully unlocked bios with 1x8 and 1x6pin dont ask me how XD

you would need a xoc bios the extra 8x pin wouldnt do too much if the chip is a crappy clocker anyway it would be a more ease of mind the 3x 8pin but it really doesnt matter you can still force watts thru those 2x8pins XD..


----------



## skline00

Let me start by saying I have an Optimus WB on my 3900x and it is one of the nicest waterblocks I've ever used.
That being said, I don't OC my 3900x. It isn't because the Optimus wb isn't up to the challenge. It's because AMD squeezed about all they could from the 3900x at stock when it was released.

What is nice is that the wb allows me to enable PBO and it uses it because there is plenty of thermal headroom. My Optimus wb allows the 3900x to perform at it's max even stock with just PBO enabled. I use a MSI X570 Unify mb so plenty of juice for PBO.

As to a wb for the RTX3080 (have to remember it is "RTX" not "GTX"), from what I read from initial reviews with air coolers, it looks like Nvidia pushed this chip hard at stock. Not sure if there is much headroom for overclocking.

HOWEVER, the RTX3080 puts out a lot of heat which is handled remarkable well with the stock FE cooler. 

A waterblock coupled with plenty of rad capacity could be the perfect solution to absorb all that thermal output and run very quiet. Not sure , however, how much headroom there is for OCing even watercooled.


----------



## Optimus WC

GPU UPDATE:
First, wow, that launch was, uh, something. We had word out to get samples and our our crew out shaking the trees, but it's the wild west out there. 

*BIG REMINDER: If you send us a card we don't have, we'll use the card for design and then return the card with a free waterblock!! It may even be a 'special edition thank you' model *

We have samples for:
-EVGA XC3 (thank you Sakete!)

We need samples for:
-Strix
-Tuf
-FTW3
-Founders
-Maybe: Reference (Zotac and PNY)

We do have official 3D designs for certain cards. We're working on the designs for those right now. Of course, we don't know how the block will perform until we stick it onto a GPU. 

TIMELINE: The designs are looking good. So much of the work we've done on the 2080ti has brought us to this moment. Once we release the blocks, you'll see why it's different  it's not just better build quality and better performance, it's fundamentally a different way of waterblocking a GPU (well, it's a big deal to us and to performance, though it won't look wildly different than previous examples). 

Some 3080/3090 waterblocking thoughts:
-So much power in these things. The first round of reviews are hitting thermal limits and power limits really easily. 
-Remember, this is only the 3080 basic models. "Only" and it's already tapped the double 8 pin connectors.
-The 3090s will be freakishly powerful. The power delivery on these boards are going to get damn toasty, which is something we haven't seen in the testing yet (as far as I know)
-We don't think any of the air coolers OR waterblocks shown so far are adequately able to handle the potential of these cards. 
-Especially waterblocks, there are a number of things different about this gen that will benefit from the Optimus GPU design we've been working on. 
-Also, there really won't be a "reference" as far as we can tell. Just Zotac and PNY are releasing "ref" cards are they are, by far, the least impressive of the cards available. 
-We're unsure if we will even support the reference design, it's unclear if anyone else is making them. Or if GPUs will be like mobos, where every board is different in its own special way.

Overall: we're super excited about this generation! Other than the absolute sales launch mosh pit of death, once quantities get upped and the bots get murdered, we're really going to see some amazing performance and systems!!


----------



## zGunBLADEz

well, i have 2 cards on preorder the tuf and the zotac which is reference so add me to that list like i said i shotgun first PUBLICLY!!! for the second time lol

i would not put those reference back in the backlog they are short pcbs and same height as the bracket and they have 2x8pins and a watercooled small pcb is great for itx builds XD
im more inclined towards the zotac myself ""reference"" than the tuf as bcuz if i see the pcb higher than the pci bracket i get anxious lol its not right in my book EDIT: ek took her out of the initial list of reference hmmmm

all those cards are GIMPED anyway by nvidia so it really doesnt matter XD


----------



## acoustic

originxt said:


> Managed to snag one. PNY GeForce RTX 3090 24GB XLR8 Gaming EPIC-X RGB Triple Fan Edition Unsure what pcb this is. Reference? Unsure if I'll keep or not. Really want a better 3090.


I'm curious if that order will go through. I didn't want to order the PNY due to the 2x 8-pin. I eventually said "**** it" and went to put the order through, but when I tried to submit the order after putting all my info in, the site kept giving me an error. I think I'm better off as I want a FTW3 Ultra or a Gigabyte AORUS as I think the 3x 8-pin will be essential for these cards. The EVGA FTW3 3080 (3x 8-8-pin) seemed to do much better just out of the box than the ASUS TUF and Gigabyte EAGLE, both 2x 8-pin cards.

Much like the 2080TI, this generation will be dominated by whoever has the highest power-limit BIOS, and who can supply the cleanest power delivery.


----------



## Optimus WC

Yeah we don't have any idea the real results. That said, if we get all the cards quickly, we'll be first (maybe) with real performance numbers under water on optimus blocks 

Regarding reference, zotac and PNY always sell the least amount of cards. So while reference makes sense theoretically, if EVGA, ASUS and GIG aren't supporting it, the actual units in the wild could be super, super limited. At least for a while. My guess is they will support it, but not until later when the turbos and other cards launch. 

And, yes, GUNBLADE -- noted  of course, "preorder" means, uh, you'll receive it any day now 😁😬


----------



## criskoe

@Optimus WC 

Not sure it this was mentioned or asked before but for your gpu blocks, will there be a option for black acetal? Or are they gonna be strictly acrylic?

as well as black back plates?


----------



## Shawnb99

How are people able to pre-order the 3090's? Are they are sale now?


----------



## sakete

I'm really tempted to try and get my hands on the 3080 FTW3. If I succeed, I'll send the FTW3 and XC3 to Optimus, and will then sell the XC3 afterwards.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> I'm really tempted to try and get my hands on the 3080 FTW3. If I succeed, I'll send the FTW3 and XC3 to Optimus, and will then sell the XC3 afterwards.


gamers nexus said that evga said that they would be restocking again tomorrow or sunday, and evga jacob said on twitter that when they restock it will be multiple times per day that inventory lists as available. Bots are still going to be a problem, I am probably going to carry a laptop around all weekend so i can just have the page up ready to go.


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> I'm really tempted to try and get my hands on the 3080 FTW3. If I succeed, I'll send the FTW3 and XC3 to Optimus, and will then sell the XC3 afterwards.


I want the free block from sending in my 3090 FTW3


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> gamers nexus said that evga said that they would be restocking again tomorrow or sunday, and evga jacob said on twitter that when they restock it will be multiple times per day that inventory lists as available. Bots are still going to be a problem, I am probably going to carry a laptop around all weekend so i can just have the page up ready to go.


I just hope they announce a time and date for FTW3 orders. Otherwise it'll be a crapshoot.


----------



## Shawnb99

It'll be a crapshoot even if they announce it. The bots will buy them all again


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> It'll be a crapshoot even if they announce it. The bots will buy them all again


Well I got lucky with the XC3. Maybe I'll get lucky again with the FTW3. And if I do, I'll go buy a lottery ticket as well


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> I just hope they announce a time and date for FTW3 orders. Otherwise it'll be a crapshoot.


he said he would on twitter, and i kind of want that to be the only place because it will limit the number of people that know in advance since he only has 16k followers


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> he said he would on twitter, and i kind of want that to be the only place because it will limit the number of people that know in advance since he only has 16k followers


Well, you know it's gonna end up on reddit as well, probably here too, and on other forums. There's a ton of interest in this launch.

Now also rumors of 20GB versions that are coming, maybe it'll make some people hold off from buying. For me, 10GB is more than plenty on 1440p


----------



## darkangelism

adorama had a waitlist for their FTW3 stock but i missed it by 5 minutes


----------



## darkangelism

GIGABYTE confirms GeForce RTX 3060 8GB, RTX 3070 16GB and RTX 3080 20GB - VideoCardz.com if this is true might have been better to miss. Not that getting one of those will be any easier


----------



## originxt

Lol rip, order got canceled as it wasn't meant to be put on sale. Easy come, easy go _shrug_. Honestly, not that mad, wanted something better anyways.


----------



## darkangelism

rumor is that amazon is going live soon


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> rumor is that amazon is going live soon


How soon? Will they have FTW3 you think?


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> How soon? Will they have FTW3 you think?


I am not sure how soon or if the rumor is even true, probably not the FTW3, I still don't think those are going to be until Sunday or Monday based on things that EVGA Jacob has said on twitter about restocking early next week. and they are having everyone hold the FTW3 until they can launch it. The listing on Newegg was fully removed from the site.


----------



## asdf893

Optimus WC said:


> GPU UPDATE:
> First, wow, that launch was, uh, something. We had word out to get samples and our our crew out shaking the trees, but it's the wild west out there.
> 
> *BIG REMINDER: If you send us a card we don't have, we'll use the card for design and then return the card with a free waterblock!! It may even be a 'special edition thank you' model *
> 
> We have samples for:
> -EVGA XC3 (thank you Sakete!)
> 
> We need samples for:
> -Strix
> -Tuf
> -FTW3
> -Founders
> -Maybe: Reference (Zotac and PNY)
> 
> We do have official 3D designs for certain cards. We're working on the designs for those right now. Of course, we don't know how the block will perform until we stick it onto a GPU.
> 
> TIMELINE: The designs are looking good. So much of the work we've done on the 2080ti has brought us to this moment. Once we release the blocks, you'll see why it's different  it's not just better build quality and better performance, it's fundamentally a different way of waterblocking a GPU (well, it's a big deal to us and to performance, though it won't look wildly different than previous examples).
> 
> Some 3080/3090 waterblocking thoughts:
> -So much power in these things. The first round of reviews are hitting thermal limits and power limits really easily.
> -Remember, this is only the 3080 basic models. "Only" and it's already tapped the double 8 pin connectors.
> -The 3090s will be freakishly powerful. The power delivery on these boards are going to get damn toasty, which is something we haven't seen in the testing yet (as far as I know)
> -We don't think any of the air coolers OR waterblocks shown so far are adequately able to handle the potential of these cards.
> -Especially waterblocks, there are a number of things different about this gen that will benefit from the Optimus GPU design we've been working on.
> -Also, there really won't be a "reference" as far as we can tell. Just Zotac and PNY are releasing "ref" cards are they are, by far, the least impressive of the cards available.
> -We're unsure if we will even support the reference design, it's unclear if anyone else is making them. Or if GPUs will be like mobos, where every board is different in its own special way.
> 
> Overall: we're super excited about this generation! Other than the absolute sales launch mosh pit of death, once quantities get upped and the bots get murdered, we're really going to see some amazing performance and systems!!


Who do we contact for this?


----------



## thatspencerb

What's the current delay on AMD foundation blocks? Ordered one August 28th, hoping it's here before Zen 3 launch.


----------



## asdf893

thatspencerb said:


> What's the current delay on AMD foundation blocks? Ordered one August 28th, hoping it's here before Zen 3 launch.


check my next post for my timeline.


----------



## sakete

asdf893 said:


> Who do we contact for this?


Just send a PM. They'll respond.


----------



## asdf893

ordered August 4th, 2020 Foundation CPU Block - AMD - Acrylic + Black Aluminum / Raw Copper × 1
received email Aug 28th, 2020 stating no ETA.
received email Sep 8th, 2020 stating "We're hoping to ship your order by the end of next week." which would be Friday Sep 18th, 2020.
received email Sep 18th, 2020 stating my AMD block was shipped and provided USPS number. USPS tracking says they've picked it up and ETA Sep 22nd.



asdf893 said:


> Update/clarification:
> 
> 
> ordered August 4th, 2020 Foundation CPU Block - AMD - Acrylic + Black Aluminum / Raw Copper × 1
> received email Aug 28th, 2020 stating no ETA.
> received email Sep 8th, 2020 stating "We're hoping to ship your order by the end of next week." which would be Friday Sep 18th, 2020.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

3090 leaked 3dmark scores on timespy extreme are shy of 20% over the 3080 for $1400???? ok nvidia.... Lers hear the justifications and probably those 3080 with 20gb vram are going to be minimum 1k to $1200 that 3090 would look like a better bargain lol which is not.


----------



## criskoe

Scary part is they $1500. That’s double PLUS $100.


----------



## originxt

zGunBLADEz said:


> 3090 leaked 3dmark scores on timespy extreme are shy of 20% over the 3080 for $1400???? ok nvidia.... Lers hear the justifications and probably those 3080 with 20gb vram are going to be minimum 1k to $1200 that 3090 would look like a better bargain lol which is not.


$1500*

But we kind of knew that already? Just based on specs released, it shouldn't be a surprise. I'm not saying it's justified but the result was within expectations... 

Supposedly meant for those that were looking for the next titan but the marketing clearly states otherwise. We are just paying the early adopter 3080ti tax, similar as before.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

my bad on that its the 1499 thingy lol..

so not to expect a cut down version like the 3090 for 3080 prices those days are lone gone now

3080 with more vram but same perf more money 1000-1200 probably no cut chip from 3090
and 3090 for $1499 for 20% more perf. nvidia perfectly knows what shes doing and it aint going to work lol..


----------



## darkangelism

the 3090 wasn't supposed to be mainstream. It is the worst performance increase to cost ever, even the titan RTX was better even though it was 3X the 2080 it was 54% more performance


----------



## Zurv

darkangelism said:


> the 3090 wasn't supposed to be mainstream. It is the worst performance increase to cost ever, even the titan RTX was better even though it was 3X the 2080 it was 54% more performance


what the what? the RTX titan was just a little bit faster than the 2080 ti for 2x the cost.
The 3090 is a bargain  (The 2080 was poop. It is only because of the odd naming for the 2000 series. the 2080 should have been the 2070 and the ti the 2080 IMO)


I'm not sure what model to get yet. This will be the first time in a loooooooooooooooong time since i'm not going SLI.
That said, i will be getting 2 3090s (for 2 systems) 
The FE or the EVGA FTW is that i'm looking at. But is all about stocks.
(ugh.. one of my systems has now cards now. I sold my two kingpins... it is also the system connected to the TV too. I hope i'm luckily this week. (doubtful)) 
(I still have two RTX Titans in my desktop system)


----------



## darkangelism

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 TecLab Review Leaked: 10% Faster Than RTX 3080


TecLab appears to have gotten leaky again and published a detailed review of the RTX 3090 (spotted and compiled by Videocardz). Since the video was taken down the last time they did this, WhyCry took the liberty of compiling all the juicy bits and it seems that according to their review the RTX...




wccftech.com





3090 only 10% faster than the 3080. Really not worth it.


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 TecLab Review Leaked: 10% Faster Than RTX 3080
> 
> 
> TecLab appears to have gotten leaky again and published a detailed review of the RTX 3090 (spotted and compiled by Videocardz). Since the video was taken down the last time they did this, WhyCry took the liberty of compiling all the juicy bits and it seems that according to their review the RTX...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wccftech.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3090 only 10% faster than the 3080. Really not worth it.


Yeah, but it has 24GB ram. You can game at 16K with that. /s

I really don't know where the VRAM obsession came from.

I'll stick with my 3080 and will upgrade again to the 5080 when that comes around.


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> Who do we contact for this?





Optimus WC said:


> GPU UPDATE:
> First, wow, that launch was, uh, something. We had word out to get samples and our our crew out shaking the trees, but it's the wild west out there.
> 
> *BIG REMINDER: If you send us a card we don't have, we'll use the card for design and then return the card with a free waterblock!! It may even be a 'special edition thank you' model *
> 
> We have samples for:
> -EVGA XC3 (thank you Sakete!)
> 
> We need samples for:
> -Strix
> -Tuf
> -FTW3
> -Founders
> -Maybe: Reference (Zotac and PNY)
> 
> We do have official 3D designs for certain cards. We're working on the designs for those right now. Of course, we don't know how the block will perform until we stick it onto a GPU.
> 
> TIMELINE: The designs are looking good. So much of the work we've done on the 2080ti has brought us to this moment. Once we release the blocks, you'll see why it's different  it's not just better build quality and better performance, it's fundamentally a different way of waterblocking a GPU (well, it's a big deal to us and to performance, though it won't look wildly different than previous examples).
> 
> Some 3080/3090 waterblocking thoughts:
> -So much power in these things. The first round of reviews are hitting thermal limits and power limits really easily.
> -Remember, this is only the 3080 basic models. "Only" and it's already tapped the double 8 pin connectors.
> -The 3090s will be freakishly powerful. The power delivery on these boards are going to get damn toasty, which is something we haven't seen in the testing yet (as far as I know)
> -We don't think any of the air coolers OR waterblocks shown so far are adequately able to handle the potential of these cards.
> -Especially waterblocks, there are a number of things different about this gen that will benefit from the Optimus GPU design we've been working on.
> -Also, there really won't be a "reference" as far as we can tell. Just Zotac and PNY are releasing "ref" cards are they are, by far, the least impressive of the cards available.
> -We're unsure if we will even support the reference design, it's unclear if anyone else is making them. Or if GPUs will be like mobos, where every board is different in its own special way.
> 
> Overall: we're super excited about this generation! Other than the absolute sales launch mosh pit of death, once quantities get upped and the bots get murdered, we're really going to see some amazing performance and systems!!



So if i get 3090, optimus could make free block lol


----------



## ciarlatano

zGunBLADEz said:


> 3090 leaked 3dmark scores on timespy extreme are shy of 20% over the 3080 for $1400???? ok nvidia.... Lers hear the justifications and probably those 3080 with 20gb vram are going to be minimum 1k to $1200 that 3090 would look like a better bargain lol which is not.


Nvidia doesn't need to justify it. The fact that users spend ridiculous amounts of money to get gains that aren't even perceptible to the human eye is all the justification needed. They are doing nothing more than giving the ePeen crew what they want. No manufacturer needs to justify giving their customer what they want at a ridiculous price that they are willing to pay. That's nothing more than business.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> Yeah, but it has 24GB ram. You can game at 16K with that. /s
> 
> I really don't know where the VRAM obsession came from.
> 
> I'll stick with my 3080 and will upgrade again to the 5080 when that comes around.


Hi,
Came from a lack of on the 20 series on 4k namely 2080 and super both 8gb one couldn't max game setting like they could on 1080ti 11gb.
Mainly why I passed on 20 series it made no sense and also 2080ti was too much after I read 30 series would cost less back then.


----------



## Section31

ciarlatano said:


> Nvidia doesn't need to justify it. The fact that users spend ridiculous amounts of money to get gains that aren't even perceptible to the human eye is all the justification needed. They are doing nothing more than giving the ePeen crew what they want. No manufacturer needs to justify giving their customer what they want at a ridiculous price that they are willing to pay. That's nothing more than business.


Its really meant to be marketed at the ai research, film studios, compute people and miners. Truth be told they need to require someone state credentials before allowing you to buy it...It should go to those people first


----------



## originxt

Section31 said:


> Its really meant to be marketed at the ai research, film studios, compute people and miners. Truth be told they need to require someone state credentials before allowing you to buy it...It should go to those people first











NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 Graphics Card


A staggering 24 GB of G6X memory, all to deliver the ultimate gaming experience



www.nvidia.com





Based on this and the original reveal on the 2nd with Jensen, it's not being marketed at anyone besides gamers. Sure, spec wise no gamer needs that much vram but it's targeting gamers first before anyone else. Should it have been marketed differently? Maybe, but I doubt the number of people who buy this card for production vs gaming is substantial enough to warrant a difference.

For AI research and the like, wouldn't people normally target quadros? State credentials for a consumer part? That will probably never happen. Scratch that.

E-Peen crew? I have a good paying job that allows me to purchase these kind of products. What's wrong with wanting the best for what essentially is a hobby? Considering the costs that can mount on other hobbies such as photography, I think $1,500 is pretty tame for a high end part.


----------



## Optimus WC

These cards are amazing for workstation users aka video editing, CG, Tensor Flow (AI), etc. We've dealt with lots of companies that build AI workstations and video/cg rigs. There's a vast world in between gamers and the server farms. No normal company would buy Quadros for AI or rendering if a card that's like 1/10th the price would do the trick. For Tensor Flow, 4x consumer cards is better/cheaper than one Quadro. Quadros are super specialized, only for people who need the program certifications that cost a fortune.

And from personal experience, using a 3080 to do GPU block renders is extremely fast  

In this test, the 3080 beats the living hell out of the Titan RTX.










Good overview:









NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 10GB Review Roundup


The RTX 3000 series cards are here, with NVIDIA boasting significant performance gains over the previous generation. We have looked at how these cards perform in a range of professional applications to help you decide whether this new card is worth using in a new workstation, or as an upgrade in...




www.pugetsystems.com


----------



## originxt

Optimus WC said:


> These cards are amazing for workstation users aka video editing, CG, Tensor Flow (AI), etc. We've dealt with lots of companies that build AI workstations and video/cg rigs. There's a vast world in between gamers and the server fams. From personal experience, using a 3080 to do GPU block renders is extremely fast
> 
> In this test, the 3080 beats the living hell out of the Titan RTX.
> 
> View attachment 2459487
> 
> 
> Good overview:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 10GB Review Roundup
> 
> 
> The RTX 3000 series cards are here, with NVIDIA boasting significant performance gains over the previous generation. We have looked at how these cards perform in a range of professional applications to help you decide whether this new card is worth using in a new workstation, or as an upgrade in...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.pugetsystems.com


I suppose that's fair. Quadros are substantially more expensive than the Titan counterpart and most likely utilized for those parts or jobs. Edited above accordingly.


----------



## asdf893

Optimus WC said:


> These cards are amazing for workstation users aka video editing, CG, Tensor Flow (AI), etc. We've dealt with lots of companies that build AI workstations and video/cg rigs. There's a vast world in between gamers and the server farms. No normal company would buy Quadros for AI or rendering if a card that's like 1/10th the price would do the trick. For Tensor Flow, 4x consumer cards is better/cheaper than one Quadro. Quadros are super specialized, only for people who need the program certifications that cost a fortune.
> 
> And from personal experience, using a 3080 to do GPU block renders is extremely fast
> 
> In this test, the 3080 beats the living hell out of the Titan RTX.
> 
> View attachment 2459487
> 
> 
> Good overview:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 10GB Review Roundup
> 
> 
> The RTX 3000 series cards are here, with NVIDIA boasting significant performance gains over the previous generation. We have looked at how these cards perform in a range of professional applications to help you decide whether this new card is worth using in a new workstation, or as an upgrade in...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.pugetsystems.com


Hey Optimus, sent you a PM here about a 3090 waterblock trade.


----------



## sakete

Speaking of waterblock trades, my EVGA 3080 XC3 ULTRA will ship out to Optimus tomorrow


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Truth to be told most people or barely nobody at all cares about "production work" with this cards people HERE who defend this prices already have their mind set on them and if im doing AI research YOU cant beat 24/7 support 1to1 phone call straight with nvidia WHEN you have a quadro and your reasearch project needs a new driver or modifications ASAP thats why those cards are expensive. Reading production work in this type of forums and coming from this type of userbase is like "meh"

Just be honest at least epeen lol


----------



## asdf893

sakete said:


> Speaking of waterblock trades, my EVGA 3080 XC3 ULTRA will ship out to Optimus tomorrow


Are they paying for shipping both ways?


----------



## sakete

asdf893 said:


> Are they paying for shipping both ways?


Best to ask them.


----------



## originxt

Saw this in the 3090 thread, you guys think passive backplate cooling is enough for the 3090 or should we expect something similar to aquacomputer's solution with heatpipe active cooling?


----------



## criskoe

Looks like memory express in Canada is now taking orders for all the cards. All are on back order and who knows how long it will take for them to get stock but for Canadians who don’t wana f5 spam all the sites and are happy with just being in a que this is Might be for you.


----------



## Optimus WC

We have many thoughts on the cooling of these cards for absolute insane performance. We need to test the 3090 to really identify the temp profile that needs to be cooled. But without a doubt these things pull some serious power.


----------



## Shawnb99

Will the blocks have just a single set of inlet/outlets or will they have multiple ports like a hydropcopper?


----------



## sakete

I spun up the 3080 XC3 in my system for maybe 10 mins to make sure I didn't have a dud. Played a game on it for a short while, and that backplate got super hot. And that's with no memory on the back. The back of my 980ti never gets too hot. 

So am curious what kind of backplate cooling solution @Optimus WC will come up with.


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> Will the blocks have just a single set of inlet/outlets or will they have multiple ports like a hydropcopper?


Right now, the terminal has standard ports. Do you think there's a desire for a more pro style multi-port terminal? 










sakete said:


> I spun up the 3080 XC3 in my system for maybe 10 mins to make sure I didn't have a dud. Played a game on it for a short while, and that backplate got super hot. And that's with no memory on the back. The back of my 980ti never gets too hot.
> 
> So am curious what kind of backplate cooling solution @Optimus WC will come up with.


Interestingly, the die doesn't get super hot, compared to previous gens. But everything else is a tiny oven. We'll be handling the heat for sure


----------



## criskoe

Optimus WC said:


> View attachment 2459542


absolutely love how THIC that looks. 

For the ports I like the standard ports! Maybe you could offer a multiport terminal add on later for people who might want it. But don’t delay the blocks for it!!!! Lol


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Right now, the terminal has standard ports. Do you think there's a desire for a more pro style multi-port terminal?


I'm just considering my routing options. Likely to go horizontal mount but since I'm reverse atx that'll make it upside down. Multi-port does give more options.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Right now, the terminal has standard ports. Do you think there's a desire for a more pro style multi-port terminal?
> View attachment 2459542
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, the die doesn't get super hot, compared to previous gens. But everything else is a tiny oven. We'll be handling the heat for sure


The concern is more for cases. Some users i have spoken had to cancel the ftw version because wouldn't fit with the terminal in normal location. This is an 011D (non-xl)


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I'm just considering my routing options. Likely to go horizontal mount but since I'm reverse atx that'll make it upside down. Multi-port does give more options.


You have an caselabs i remember, You shouldn't have any issue with the GPU's lol. The normal layout probably works out best imo but for people with other cases, having them elsewhere helps out.


----------



## originxt

Section31 said:


> The concern is more for cases. Some users i have spoken had to cancel the ftw version because wouldn't fit with the terminal in normal location. This is an 011D (non-xl)


Well, that sucks. Strix won't fit either according to the EKWB block specs, assuming most blocks for the card will be similar dimensions. Unsure what card to go for at this point other than the fe maybe.

I just don't know anymore, compatibility is up to 159mm on width but blocks smaller than that don't fit (146mm.) What a nightmare.

@Shawnb99 Jesus, and I thought I had decent cooling. 50%+ of your rig description is cooling lol.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> You have an caselabs i remember, You shouldn't have any issue with the GPU's lol. The normal layout probably works out best imo but for people with other cases, having them elsewhere helps out.


I’m not concerned with it fitting, more with easier and cleaner tube ru



originxt said:


> @Shawnb99 Jesus, and I thought I had decent cooling. 50%+ of your rig description is cooling lol.


Lol thank you. Went just a bit overboard


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> Well, that sucks. Strix won't fit either according to the EKWB block specs, assuming most blocks for the card will be similar dimensions. Unsure what card to go for at this point other than the fe maybe.
> 
> I just don't know anymore, compatibility is up to 159mm on width but blocks smaller than that don't fit (146mm.) What a nightmare.
> 
> @Shawnb99 Jesus, and I thought I had decent cooling. 50%+ of your rig description is cooling lol.


Shawb99 system is amazing. One of the individual with lot of cooling. Some of the initial x299 people here have insane amount of cooling.

Your cooling is pretty strong too. My cooling is pretty much similar to yours except i will have triple 360mm rads plus one mo-ra3 420 once build is done (looks like 2021)


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> Lol thank you. Went just a bit overboard


One day I'll get the Thermaltake W200 case (yeah yeah, I know, thermalfake, bla bla ) and add a bunch more rads and maybe even go hard tubing. As it is I already have $1500 worth of cooling in my system. And it still doesn't seem like it's enough, lol. My Phanteks 719 case is pretty big, but honestly I wish it were quite a bit bigger. There is no space for any thick rads, only slim rads. Would love to have a bunch of HWL SR2 rads.

A dual-chamber case will make things a lot easier. And Thermaltake is the only one that makes such cases now. Too bad Caselabs went belly up.


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Right now, the terminal has standard ports. Do you think there's a desire for a more pro style multi-port terminal?
> View attachment 2459542
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly, the die doesn't get super hot, compared to previous gens. But everything else is a tiny oven. We'll be handling the heat for sure


I would at a minimum keep the standard ports, as that should be compatible with most people's builds.

I hope your backplate isn't too thick, as some people might have clearance issues. On my mobo, the Asus X570 Formula, the top PCIE slot is very close to the memory banks, and I noticed the other day a very thick backplate might be tricky there.


----------



## Optimus WC

sakete said:


> I would at a minimum keep the standard ports, as that should be compatible with most people's builds.
> 
> I hope your backplate isn't too thick, as some people might have clearance issues. On my mobo, the Asus X570 Formula, the top PCIE slot is very close to the memory banks, and I noticed the other day a very thick backplate might be tricky there.


I'd also put the Phanteks Elite in that top level 2 chamber crowd, they make excellent cases, better than TT. 

Yes, we're doing our normal terminal, though we're open to hearing requests for other designs if there is a demand and a reason. We'll probably do a pro terminal option at some point, mostly for multi GPU rendering builds. 

For the thick backplate, it will have cutouts for the RAM and IO shrouds on those mobos that are really packed together. The ITX and ASUS TRX40 mobos have the same issues as your X570. Where the thicker backplate simply won't work is in extremely compact SFF builds with 4mm of clearance on the backside. Otherwise, the thicker backplate is superior for a number of reasons that will be obvious soon


----------



## darkangelism

i feel bad for you guys that have space concerns in such a nice case.


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> i feel bad for you guys that have space concerns in such a nice case.


Haha. First world, I mean, watercooling problems.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> Haha. First world, I mean, watercooling problems.


Yeah I am just glad I chose a 30mm rad instead of a 60mm and only am doing push rather than push/pull or it would have been really tight


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> Yeah I am just glad I chose a 30mm rad instead of a 60mm and only am doing push rather than push/pull or it would have been really tight


That's the one thing that annoys me about my case. The top mount only supports up to 30mm rads. Like, it's already a huge case, why not make it a couple inches taller so you can also mount fat rads up top?

If I would've known how much this would've annoyed me I wouldn't have gotten this case. As it is, I'll just deal with it until it's time for a new mobo + cpu, which could easily be 3-5 years.


----------



## Shawnb99

darkangelism said:


> i feel bad for you guys that have space concerns in such a nice case.


My concern is even with all I have, I had to much space. So I had to buy more just to fill it.... I may have a problem lol


----------



## originxt

Shawnb99 said:


> My concern is even with all I have, I had to much space. So I had to buy more just to fill it.... I may have a problem lol


Well you can't just have empty space, that's just being irresponsible. I think you did the right thing.


----------



## darkangelism

Shawnb99 said:


> My concern is even with all I have, I had to much space. So I had to buy more just to fill it.... I may have a problem lol


I have a thermaltake x9 i am going dual 480mm rads with this upgrade and from one 200mm intake fan to two 200mm, so i understand.


----------



## Keith Myers

Anyone with a RTX 3080 run ANY BOINC projects yet? There is a technical question that the developers need answered about the CUDA cores per SM and double FP32 pipelines and how BOINC interrogates the card to calculate the GFLOPS rating for the card for estimated crunching power. The BOINC code will have to be adjusted again like we had to do for the Pascal >> Turing card transition.


----------



## lb_felipe

Optimus WC said:


> I'd also put the Phanteks Elite in that top level 2 chamber crowd, they make excellent cases, better than TT.
> 
> Yes, we're doing our normal terminal, though we're open to hearing requests for other designs if there is a demand and a reason. We'll probably do a pro terminal option at some point, mostly for multi GPU rendering builds.
> 
> For the thick backplate, it will have cutouts for the RAM and IO shrouds on those mobos that are really packed together. The ITX and ASUS TRX40 mobos have the same issues as your X570. Where the thicker backplate simply won't work is in extremely compact SFF builds with 4mm of clearance on the backside. Otherwise, the thicker backplate is superior for a number of reasons that will be obvious soon


What cases do you think are worth considering in general?


----------



## Diffident

lb_felipe said:


> What cases do you think are worth considering in general?


I have a TT View 71TG sitting in my closet waiting for the new Ryzen. It's big enough for 2 360x60mm rads, which I have 2 Black Ice SR2 360 MP ready to go in it. Or you can fit 1 420x55 and 1 360x64.

Here's a nice build using the case.


----------



## Optimus WC

lb_felipe said:


> What cases do you think are worth considering in general?


The usual suspects are solid: Phanteks, Lian Li, Corsair. The new Phanteks Luxe 2 looks good, havent done a build in it yet, but seems smart. The Lian Li PC011 style is the most popular case in the world right now, and for good reason. For more pro builds, Fractal Design is the PC builders case. Thermal Take makes some huge cases, some with good quality, some really mediocre. In Win makes quality stuff, though kinda strange stuff, like a $1000 case will only have room for a single 360mm rad. The Cerberus and sister cases are quality. Lots of ITX cases that are super premium  Though honestly when it comes to mega cases, there is still room for innovation, imo.


----------



## asdf893

Received my AMD block (a day early) and first impressions are, well, good. It looks amazing  their copper doesn't match my GPU's copper but that's OK. And if all goes well I'll have a 3090 soon that I send to Optimus for a waterblock; hopefully that block will be the same copper as their CPU block.



asdf893 said:


> ordered August 4th, 2020 Foundation CPU Block - AMD - Acrylic + Black Aluminum / Raw Copper × 1
> received email Aug 28th, 2020 stating no ETA.
> received email Sep 8th, 2020 stating "We're hoping to ship your order by the end of next week." which would be Friday Sep 18th, 2020.
> received email Sep 18th, 2020 stating my AMD block was shipped and provided USPS number. USPS tracking says they've picked it up and ETA Sep 22nd.


----------



## Optimus WC

asdf893 said:


> Received my AMD block (a day early) and first impressions are, well, good. It looks amazing  their copper doesn't match my GPU's copper but that's OK. And if all goes well I'll have a 3090 soon that I send to Optimus for a waterblock; hopefully that block will be the same copper as their CPU block.


Haha right on! We use only C110 copper aka the pure stuff. Chances are you're just seeing oxidization from air on your GPU. The Statue of Liberty was copper-colored at one point. If copper gets clear coated, it loses its heat dissipation properties. So other than faux copper coloring, natural color is going to be slightly different colors depending on age, air exposure, water, etc etc.

Now that I look at your pics, are the KP's fins just copper-colored aluminum? Hmmm


----------



## Wenty

I just got my water block today..... Been waiting for a long time.


----------



## Optimus WC

Wenty said:


> I just got my water block today..... Been waiting for a long time.


Awesome! Sorry for the delay, enjoy the performance 😁


----------



## asdf893

Optimus WC said:


> Now that I look at your pics, are the KP's fins just copper-colored aluminum? Hmmm


OMG please don't be so. KP can do no wrong...


----------



## lb_felipe

Optimus WC said:


> The usual suspects are solid: Phanteks, Lian Li, Corsair. The new Phanteks Luxe 2 looks good, havent done a build in it yet, but seems smart. The Lian Li PC011 style is the most popular case in the world right now, and for good reason. For more pro builds, Fractal Design is the PC builders case. Thermal Take makes some huge cases, some with good quality, some really mediocre. In Win makes quality stuff, though kinda strange stuff, like a $1000 case will only have room for a single 360mm rad. The Cerberus and sister cases are quality. Lots of ITX cases that are super premium  Though honestly when it comes to mega cases, there is still room for innovation, imo.


I have asked it because your reservoir doesn't have an appropriated mounting system for 120mm or 140mm fan holes. Except for fractal define 7 series, we can't mount the reservoir out if the box. Always it is needed drill out or mod something.

How to mount an Optimus Reservoir inside a case that doesn't have an bracket like this? Universal Multibracket - Type A (2-pack) — Fractal Design


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> The usual suspects are solid: Phanteks, Lian Li, Corsair. The new Phanteks Luxe 2 looks good, havent done a build in it yet, but seems smart. The Lian Li PC011 style is the most popular case in the world right now, and for good reason. For more pro builds, Fractal Design is the PC builders case. Thermal Take makes some huge cases, some with good quality, some really mediocre. In Win makes quality stuff, though kinda strange stuff, like a $1000 case will only have room for a single 360mm rad. The Cerberus and sister cases are quality. Lots of ITX cases that are super premium  Though honestly when it comes to mega cases, there is still room for innovation, imo.


My case is the Luxe 2, also known as the Enthoo 719. It's an OK case, but they made some questionable design decisions. The metal used is pretty thin and flimsy in many places. The top rad space is minimal, not much clearance between mobo and top rad, everything is a tight fit. Space behind the case for cable management is too tight.

When I was doing my build I kept coming back to the same conclusion. If they would've just made the case a couple inches taller, and a couple inches wider (especially behind the mobo plate for cable management), it would have been a much more builder friendly case.

Pic below illustrates tight fit with rad (and that's without fans, as those were mounted under the rad after I took that pic. 

And also shows how close the memory banks are to the GPU backplate on this mobo.


----------



## darkangelism

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1308182633151569920


----------



## zGunBLADEz

darkangelism said:


> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1308182633151569920


ujum sure lol...... coming from the people that are charging $50 bucks for a backplate that by todays standard should be a given, that SKU shouldn't even exist to be honest the funny part is this "invisible click bait coupon"


----------



## darkangelism

asus updated the TUF OC edition from out of stock to coming soon. After seeing Gamers Nexus only get a 13% OC with no power limit on LN2 with the FTW3 I don't think any of these cards are great overclockers, so I am less concerned with a 3X8 pin.


----------



## originxt

darkangelism said:


> asus updated the TUF OC edition from out of stock to coming soon. After seeing Gamers Nexus only get a 13% OC with no power limit on LN2 with the FTW3 I don't think any of these cards are great overclockers, so I am less concerned with a 3X8 pin.


I was thinking this too. Unsure if we're hitting limitations of Ampere or its just poor driver optimization right now. But all signs are looking like after passing 400 watts, the card doesn't really seem to scale particularly well. I think just getting a card that isn't absolute garbage and keeping it cool is the best we can hope for in terms of performance/boost.


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> asus updated the TUF OC edition from out of stock to coming soon. After seeing Gamers Nexus only get a 13% OC with no power limit on LN2 with the FTW3 I don't think any of these cards are great overclockers, so I am less concerned with a 3X8 pin.


Yeah, I've decided to just stick to the XC3 and hold on to it for at least a couple years.


----------



## originxt

sakete said:


> Yeah, I've decided to just stick to the XC3 and hold on to it for at least a couple years.


You think the xc3 is better than the founders edition? Or is it more for the waterblock not voiding warranty?


----------



## sakete

originxt said:


> You think the xc3 is better than the founders edition? Or is it more for the waterblock not voiding warranty?


For me it's all about the warranty with waterblock. And just EVGA customer service in general. Much better than Nvidia.


----------



## darkangelism

well i was able to get a series x preorder so 1/3 of the big tech items


----------



## Sir Beregond

zGunBLADEz said:


> ujum sure lol...... coming from the people that are charging $50 bucks for a backplate that by todays standard should be a given, that SKU shouldn't even exist to be honest the funny part is this "invisible click bait coupon"


No backplate? Wow EVGA. It's 2020, not 2010.


----------



## Optimus WC

GPU UPDATE: So we've been seeing some 3000 series GPUs that have different capacitors on the VRMs than spec. Basically, the cards have tiny little beer can capacitors rather than the flat black crackers. Some boards shouldn't have them but do. It's possible that there's a shortage of the flatties. Or that there's some other design/power/whatever decision to go with one type over another. It's a very strange that we're seeing every single GPU this time around running these caps.

Why is this important? The beer can caps are 9mm tall, which is way taller than the previous generation blocks. If you've looked at PCBs, you'll see these caps everywhere near the die. Meaning, blocks will need to have thicker copper to achieve true full coverage cooling. So when you see your block and you're like "why is this thing so dang heavy" now you know. Or, when you see blocks that have all kinds of crazy acrylic layers and channels (not from us, by the way), the caps are to blame. 

As for us, we're well into designing and testing the new cards. More to come


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> GPU UPDATE: So we've been seeing some 3000 series GPUs that have different capacitors on the VRMs than spec. Basically, the cards have tiny little beer can capacitors rather than the flat black crackers. Some boards shouldn't have them but do. It's possible that there's a shortage of the flatties. Or that there's some other design/power/whatever decision to go with one type over another. It's a very strange that we're seeing every single GPU this time around running these caps.
> 
> Why is this important? The beer can caps are 9mm tall, which is way taller than the previous generation blocks. If you've looked at PCBs, you'll see these caps everywhere near the die. Meaning, blocks will need to have thicker copper to achieve true full coverage cooling. So when you see your block and you're like "why is this thing so dang heavy" now you know. Or, when you see blocks that have all kinds of crazy acrylic layers and channels (not from us, by the way), the caps are to blame.
> 
> As for us, we're well into designing and testing the new cards. More to come
> 
> View attachment 2459760


Hi,
Yeah evga has some nasty thermal pads really double stick tape freaking aholes 💀


----------



## D-EJ915

Honestly I'd dig a block that looks like the old hydro copper GTX 480.


----------



## Optimus WC

FYI, the evga xc3 3080 backplate doesn't have thermal pads 🤔


----------



## dwolvin

For that price, they better!


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> FYI, the evga xc3 3080 backplate doesn't have thermal pads [emoji848]


So what is that built-in "heat-pipe" for then, as they call it? It did get very hot to the touch when I ran it for a short while.


----------



## Section31

watercool the backplate optimus


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> FYI, the evga xc3 3080 backplate doesn't have thermal pads 🤔


The strix pcb looks the cleanest of the group


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> The strix pcb looks the cleanest of the group


I wonder what the FTW3 pcb looks like.


----------



## darkangelism

evga ftw3 is supposed to be available this afternoon pacific time, but no exact hour given yet.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> I wonder what the FTW3 pcb looks like.


Hi,
A 24 pack of beer


----------



## originxt

GeForce RTX 3090, A “BFGPU” For Creators, Researchers and Extreme Gamers, Launches Thursday


Enables extreme gamers to play at 8K, and creators to explore a new world of cinematics.



www.nvidia.com














Well, its basically confirmed from the big guys themselves. 10-15% on average than the 3080. Barring some ridiculous uplift in the next generation, as long as it allows me to play above 60fps with no hiccups in 4k closed to maxed out for the next 4 years, I'll take it.

Does optimus still need a FE card? I think that's the only card that could potentially fit at this point with the ports being similar to the EKWB block. Unsure if it'll fit if the ports are in standard layout. Or... If I could even get one on launch day. Limited supply upfront probably means refresh to sold out.


----------



## criskoe

Hmmm these 3080/3090 blocks sure look pretty nice. Looks like they giving the back love too.
















generally how good are AC blocks???
cause this looks sexy imo.


----------



## originxt

criskoe said:


> Hmmm these 3080/3090 blocks sure look pretty nice. Looks like they giving the back love too.
> View attachment 2459842
> View attachment 2459843
> 
> 
> generally how good are AC blocks???
> cause this looks sexy imo.


iirc, they are some of the best blocks you can get. Quite pricey too. I think they had active backplate cooling for the 2080ti but wasn't really needed back then.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Hmmm these 3080/3090 blocks sure look pretty nice. Looks like they giving the back love too.
> View attachment 2459842
> View attachment 2459843
> 
> 
> generally how good are AC blocks???
> cause this looks sexy imo.


Love that look. Them and heatkiller blocks


----------



## criskoe

Man it really sucks that there are so many different pcb versions for this release. Heat killer already announced reference First. Then XC3. Then MAYBE tuff. Strix. ftw3. They are undecided which one to do of them.

probobly going to be the same with these AC blocks.

hope optimus shocks everyone and actually has block available in the next month. maybe it would be in their best interest to focus on aib custom blocks right away like XC3 then right to ftw3 Tuf and strix. Beat others to market and clean up.


----------



## sakete

Aqua computer makes really nice stuff. Except for the rads, cpu block and fittings, basically all my watercooling gear is aqua computer (pumps, res, flow meter, temp sensors, filter, Aquaero, OCTO, and a bunch of fan splitters, etc)


----------



## sakete

criskoe said:


> Man it really sucks that there are so many different pcb versions for this release. Heat killer already announced reference First. Then XC3. Then MAYBE tuff. Strix. ftw3. They are undecided which one to do of them.
> 
> probobly going to be the same with these AC blocks.
> 
> hope optimus shocks everyone and actually has block available in the next month. maybe it would be in their best interest to focus on aib custom blocks right away like XC3 then right to ftw3 Tuf and strix. Beat others to market and clean up.


Yeah if they can be first, and they can ramp up production to meet demand in a timely fashion, they could seriously make a splash.


----------



## Optimus WC

We're working on it! Right now, the XC3 and TUF will be the first cards, then Strix and, hopefully, the FTW3. We still need samples of FTW3 to even get measurements. XC3 block design is almost done, will probably test prototypes tomorrow night. Then, we'll order the materials (exact size copper, acrylic, etc etc) and manufacture next week, nickel plate and anodize the week after, then ship the week after that. 

FYI, these PCB designs are a hot mess -- every single one is different. Even reference-like has big compatibility problems, like the heights of the inductors and capacitors. Because it's not standardized, we're seeing some really high components, requiring an entirely new way to design these waterblocks. I'm sure other companies are scratching their heads how to deal with this issue. We have a solution, so we'll be going with that moving forward. Once we're closer to release, we'll reveal our new design. Spoiler: it's amazing


----------



## originxt

Optimus WC said:


> We're working on it! Right now, the XC3 and TUF will be the first cards, then Strix and, hopefully, the FTW3. We still need samples of FTW3 to even get measurements. XC3 block design is almost done, will probably test prototypes tomorrow night. Then, we'll order the materials (exact size copper, acrylic, etc etc) and manufacture next week, nickel plate and anodize the week after, then ship the week after that.
> 
> FYI, these PCB designs are a hot mess -- every single one is different. Even reference-like has big compatibility problems, like the heights of the inductors and capacitors. Because it's not standardized, we're seeing some really high components, requiring an entirely new way to design these waterblocks. I'm sure other companies are scratching their heads how to deal with this issue. We have a solution, so we'll be going with that moving forward. Once we're closer to release, we'll reveal our new design. Spoiler: it's amazing


Is the XC3 3080/3090 the same or different?


----------



## Optimus WC

originxt said:


> Is the XC3 3080/3090 the same or different?


It'll be one block for both.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC You almost had your FTW3 but EVGA didn't like me using your address to ship to and by the time I get into PayPal it all went to hell and they were all gone. Oh well didn't really need to upgrade. I'll put the money to good use elsewhere.


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC You almost had your FTW3 but EVGA didn't like me using your address to ship to and by the time I get into PayPal it all went to hell and they were all gone. Oh well didn't really need to upgrade. I'll put the money to good use elsewhere.


Ah, EVGA!!! That sucks, thanks for trying!


----------



## Chamidorix

@Optimus WC I managed to snag a FTW Ultra 3090 today and am certainly intrigued by the idea of sending it in to get a free block, especially if production runs of good (non ek/bysk 🤪) ftw blocks are going to take a while. I'm really only interested in a block that has some sort of active cooling for the backside mem, however. Feel free to PM me if you want to talk details outside of the public eye. 3090 should be shipping from evga.com today so it could be pretty fast turnaround if you don't already have a ftw source.

Waiting for the HP Reverb G2 to release anyways 🤪


----------



## sakete

Chamidorix said:


> @Optimus WC I managed to snag a FTW Ultra 3090 today and am certainly intrigued by the idea of sending it in to get a free block, especially if production runs of good (non ek/bysk 🤪) ftw blocks are going to take a while. I'm really only interested in a block that has some sort of active cooling for the backside mem, however. Feel free to PM me if you want to talk details outside of the public eye. 3090 should be shipping from evga.com today so it could be pretty fast turnaround if you don't already have a ftw source.
> 
> Waiting for the HP Reverb G2 to release anyways 🤪


I sent in my XC3 on Monday and they're working on that one right now. Best to initiate the PM, you'll get a quicker response that way.


----------



## Optimus WC

Thanks for the offer! We do have a FTW3 inbound now, so we'll be good on XC3 and FTW3. We want to do a really fancy backplate solution, but that's a little down the road. We got to make traditional blocks first. But all blocks will come with an included backplate, it'll make sense why when we start shipping.


----------



## acoustic

Awesome to hear you've got a FTW3 on the way. Looking forward to your design!

Also, stupid and quick question that anyone could likely answer ..

I've been waiting to go custom loop until I replace my 9900K because I don't want to buy a new waterblock for the processor if the Ryzen 4xxx series impress as I'll end up moving to that platform. I seen you guys sell mount kits for the Foundation so you can swap between Intel or AMD; is that correct? The shape of the coldplate looks much different between the two in some of the photos, though. Is it possible to swap between, and what are the main differences between the Signature and the Foundation? As a noob, I really can't see much difference.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Thanks for the offer! We do have a FTW3 inbound now, so we'll be good on XC3 and FTW3. We want to do a really fancy backplate solution, but that's a little down the road. We got to make traditional blocks first. But all blocks will come with an included backplate, it'll make sense why when we start shipping.


That helps for us looking out for one. Me and my friends who want one watercooled are waiting for blocks before we order the GPU. Seems like way too much risk with it being an fermi 2.0. I just gave up (who cares how long it takes) but put down an no-charge preorder in store for the 3080 Strix. Not sure how much it helps me being an VIP Known Customer (they are my go to store).


----------



## criskoe

What’s your guys opinion on this. ?????

Looks like these evga XC3 variants, even the 3090 version is locked down pretty good right now. 366w even for the 3090!!!!! Wow. 

I was really hoping for the XC3 to be at least a little better then the founders edition. But looks like it’s not going to be. Most Likely JUST equal or a tiny bit less actually. Very power limited.


----------



## KedarWolf

criskoe said:


> What’s your guys opinion on this. ?????
> 
> Looks like these evga XC3 variants, even the 3090 version is locked down pretty good right now. 366w even for the 3090!!!!! Wow.
> 
> I was really hoping for the XC3 to be at least a little better then the founders edition. But looks like it’s not going to be. Most Likely JUST equal or a tiny bit less actually. Very power limited.
> 
> View attachment 2459957


Can you flash a higher power limit BIOS to the card though?


----------



## Optimus WC

That's around what the 2 x 8 pin is allowed to draw. I don't believe they can go over the spec, legally. Of course, custom bioses will let your gpu glow like the sun. These Ampere cards are super powerful and definitely power limited, but also very sensitive to temps. We haven't gotten the cards really cooled well to see just what they can do.


----------



## dwolvin

Hm... So a good block might actually unlock good overclocks? 🤔😁


----------



## Optimus WC

dwolvin said:


> Hm... So a good block might actually unlock good overclocks? 🤔😁


That's the theory, we're gonna find out


----------



## originxt

dwolvin said:


> Hm... So a good block might actually unlock good overclocks? 🤔😁


Well Nvidia cards have been more sensitive to temperatures than anything else in terms of their boost. With a good block, it allows you to get lower temps=better boosts. Granted if your card is not really great from the start, doesn't really matter how good your cooling is because you'll be constrained due to hardware anyways.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> That's around what the 2 x 8 pin is allowed to draw. I don't believe they can go over the spec, legally. Of course, custom bioses will let your gpu glow like the sun. These Ampere cards are super powerful and definitely power limited, but also very sensitive to temps. We haven't gotten the cards really cooled well to see just what they can do.


I am curious what your solution to the backplate cooling is. Heat pipes are needed at least


----------



## acoustic

My question got buried in the last page; just curious if I could get an answer on this:

I've been waiting to go custom loop until I replace my 9900K because I don't want to buy a new waterblock for the processor if the Ryzen 4xxx series impress as I'll end up moving to that platform. I seen you guys sell mount kits for the Foundation so you can swap between Intel or AMD; is that correct? If so, I might just go ahead and build the CPU loop now, to eventually add the GPU once I get my hands on a 3080 and block.


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> I am curious what your solution to the backplate cooling is. Heat pipes are needed at least


We will start with a huge passive backplate. We need to get the card to evaluate what is really going on. GDDR6X doesn't really pull much wattage, 3w each. It's more about the power delivery. The heatpipe backplate design is kinda a gimmick, though I personally haven't tested it. A heatpipe that far away from the RAM, means the heat has to radiate into the entire backplate, then go through a heatpipe that's just touching the aluminum, and into the water channel. It's really not ideal. With heatpipes, you want them on the actual source of heat. And we think there is a lot more than meets the eye with these cards when it comes to cooling. We'll see what we find, we have some fun ideas 



acoustic said:


> My question got buried in the last page; just curious if I could get an answer on this:
> 
> I've been waiting to go custom loop until I replace my 9900K because I don't want to buy a new waterblock for the processor if the Ryzen 4xxx series impress as I'll end up moving to that platform. I seen you guys sell mount kits for the Foundation so you can swap between Intel or AMD; is that correct? If so, I might just go ahead and build the CPU loop now, to eventually add the GPU once I get my hands on a 3080 and block.


Yes, the Foundation brackets are interchangeable. It's super easy to go from Intel to AMD or to change colors or tops, etc. It's all modular and really strong construction, so no worries about stripped plastic threads or the like


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> We will start with a huge passive backplate. We need to get the card to evaluate what is really going on. GDDR6X doesn't really pull much wattage, 3w each. It's more about the power delivery. The heatpipe backplate design is kinda a gimmick, though I personally haven't tested it. A heatpipe that far away from the RAM, means the heat has to radiate into the entire backplate, then go through a heatpipe that's just touching the aluminum, and into the water channel. It's really not ideal. With heatpipes, you want them on the actual source of heat. And we think there is a lot more than meets the eye with these cards when it comes to cooling. We'll see what we find, we have some fun ideas
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the Foundation brackets are interchangeable. It's super easy to go from Intel to AMD or to change colors or tops, etc. It's all modular and really strong construction, so no worries about stripped plastic threads or the like


 Keep us informed. Seems like you guys are best choice for blocks atm. You guys helped me decide which card to get


----------



## Shawnb99

criskoe said:


> What’s your guys opinion on this. ?????
> 
> Looks like these evga XC3 variants, even the 3090 version is locked down pretty good right now. 366w even for the 3090!!!!! Wow.
> 
> I was really hoping for the XC3 to be at least a little better then the founders edition. But looks like it’s not going to be. Most Likely JUST equal or a tiny bit less actually. Very power limited.
> 
> View attachment 2459957


This is why the FTW3 is the card to get from EVGA. If you're putting the card on water why buy a 2x 8pin model?


----------



## criskoe

Shawnb99 said:


> This is why the FTW3 is the card to get from EVGA. If you're putting the card on water why buy a 2x 8pin model?


Yeah that’s more then likely whats gunna be needed if I’d like to eek out any extra performance. 

i initially liked the XC3 mainly due to its Pcb size. Not extra wide. And no clearance issues. I guess I was just hoping it would be a little bit better then founders. Even if it was just a little. 

And I’m really not a fan of the blocks So far I’ve seen for the founders edition. Ports at the end of the card are a no go for me. And I’m not buying that Corsair block. Lol.


----------



## Shawnb99

criskoe said:


> Yeah that’s more then likely whats gunna be needed if I’d like to eek out any extra performance.
> 
> i initially liked the XC3 mainly due to its Pcb size. Not extra wide. And no clearance issues. I guess I was just hoping it would be a little bit better then founders. Even if it was just a little.
> 
> And I’m really not a fan of the blocks So far I’ve seen for the founders edition. Ports at the end of the card are a no go for me. And I’m not buying that Corsair block. Lol.


Yeah I don't blame you. I wouldn't use the Corsair if I got it for free. I'm not a fan of the ports on the end either. Main issue with the FTW was always the lack of blocks, last gen we only had the Hydrocopper or EK. Glad to se Optimus making one this time.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah I don't blame you. I wouldn't use the Corsair if I got it for free. I'm not a fan of the ports on the end either. Main issue with the FTW was always the lack of blocks, last gen we only had the Hydrocopper or EK. Glad to se Optimus making one this time.


We are the small group that prefers non ekwb products.


----------



## originxt

Gonna do a small mod to extend the glass panel off my 011D so I can get the ftw3 and optimus block. It may not look pretty but it'll be functional lol. Also helps all my fans are positive pressure.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

just use spacers and a bigger screw maybe is even better after that you got some vacuum reaction from it..


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I don't mind ek water block but I will insist on copper lol


----------



## sakete

Maybe I should do a step-up to the 3080 FTW3 20GB if that one comes out. Wonder if that would have a different pcb layout to the 10gb version, or if it would have ram chips on the back like the 3090 does.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
NV is more likely to do a 3080 super duper than a ti 3090 is likely the ti.


----------



## sakete

We'll see, there's a chance something like that would come out sooner rather than later with AMD finally coming with something competitive. Not that I'll ever go with AMD as I have gsync Monitors (the old ones with a dedicated chip).

Though I did just add a second monitor that supports both gsync and freesync so I'm less tied to Nvidia in the future. I'm typically brand agnostic and just get what's best.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> We'll see, there's a chance something like that would come out sooner rather than later with AMD finally coming with something competitive. Not that I'll ever go with AMD as I have gsync Monitors (the old ones with a dedicated chip).
> 
> Though I did just add a second monitor that supports both gsync and freesync so I'm less tied to Nvidia in the future. I'm typically brand agnostic and just get what's best.


Hi,
Best thing about waiting until all the releases are out or at least announced which should be by the end of the year.
I'm in no hurry early bugs... are best if someone else finds them and not I


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Best thing about waiting until all the releases are out or at least announced which should be by the end of the year.
> I'm in no hurry early bugs... are best if someone else finds them and not I


I think many of us have no choice. By then, we know what company will support what waterblocks (and should be out) and that any bugs will get worked out.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Best thing about waiting until all the releases are out or at least announced which should be by the end of the year.
> I'm in no hurry early bugs... are best if someone else finds them and not I


With my 2080TI, i got the first batch in mid October. Lent it to friend to do space invader test, got it and got replacement around early to mid November. Then I went on holiday till January 2020 and only then did i have to time to install it. The heatkiller waterblock came in around December 2019. 

That's been the trend with me nowadays, buy new hardware and it takes me up to 3-6months before I endup installing it (with many changes in between - more money spent). I bought an Alienware 3418DW at same time of 2080TI launch (wanted the LG 34GK950-F but wasn't available yet) and by time i actively used in early to mid 2019, i ended up selling it in fall of 2019 (replaced it with LG 55inch C9). 

The story behind the 2080TI purchase itself was not simple process. I pre-ordered it when first available in August 2019 but due to my grandfather passing away in HK in September, i had to go back for one week for the funeral. During that week, the 2080TI was launched but because the credit card hold expired, they could not charge it. I then had issues paying it because the credit card i used was left in the safe in the house in Canada so I had to use another Canadian Credit card i had with me. That credit card was in the safety deposit box in the hong kong bank so had to go with my parents to get it out. My parent's insist on storing the Canadian documentation,etc in the safety deposit box at the earliest moment we can once we land as the bulk of the Hong Kong side stuff is there also when they aren't in HK. Then encountered credit card processing errors then I had to go call the credit card company and nothing was wrong. Then i tried one of the office VPN account and set it to Canadian IP and it worked by chance. Something with the local payment processing center (Amex too). Fortunate, i only got delayed to the 2nd shipment.


----------



## darkangelism

ignore my dust and bad cable management
3700X stock clocks 1 hour prime95 60C die temp, 27C water temp, 22 ambient air temp


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> View attachment 2460136
> 
> 
> ignore my dust and bad cable management
> 3700X stock clocks 1 hour prime95 60C die temp, 27C water temp, 22 ambient air temp


How are you only getting a 5C delta? How many rads do you have? I typically get a 10-12C delta on load (with CPU+GPU dumping heat into water).


----------



## Keith Myers

Prime95 isn't a GPU load. So he is only testing a cpu load.


----------



## sakete

Keith Myers said:


> Prime95 isn't a GPU load. So he is only testing a cpu load.


Even now with the CPU or GPU not doing much I have a 8C delta. Granted, my case is pretty okay for mounting rads and such, not the best for airflow though.


----------



## Keith Myers

I only have a single cpu rad and I only get around a 8° C. delta over ambient room temp under compute load. I have hybrid gpus so don't add much extra heat load into the case. Most of the heat goes out the back and top. My case is set up for good case airflow with two 200mm fans pulling in air from the front and all the radiators exhausting to the top.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> How are you only getting a 5C delta? How many rads do you have? I typically get a 10-12C delta on load (with CPU+GPU dumping heat into water).


two 480mm hardwarelabs GTS, 4X ek varder F2 1450rpm, 4X noiseblocker eloop 1600rpm fans sidepanels are still off because I just did my water change after primochill sysprep. fan control set to try to maintain a 5C delta in aquasuite, this was after about 5 minutes, but even at an hour water temp stabilizes at about 28. Intake fans 2X200mm Noctua. 3700X with PBO on 76C 135W, GTX970 44C 221W. Once I switch to a 3080 I doubt I will still be this low or will have to ramp the fans way up.


----------



## originxt

darkangelism said:


> two 480mm hardwarelabs GTS, 4X ek varder F2 1450rpm, 4X noiseblocker eloop 1600rpm fans sidepanels are still off because I just did my water change after primochill sysprep. fan control set to try to maintain a 5C delta in aquasuite, this was after about 5 minutes, but even at an hour water temp stabilizes at about 28. Intake fans 2X200mm Noctua. 3700X with PBO on 76C 135W, GTX970 44C 221W. Once I switch to a 3080 I doubt I will still be this low or will have to ramp the fans way up.
> View attachment 2460173


Jesus lol, 21c ambient air? 28c ambient, good ol summer months. Probably need to do maintenance soon too, think I'm just gonna go with distilled water and some additives this time and not a premix concentrate (Mayhem). I think I may have added a bit too much originally lol.


----------



## darkangelism

yeah i am just using distilled+deionized and mayhems biocide extreme and inhibitor+ and the mix ratio is 1 drop per liter.


----------



## tistou77

originxt said:


> Jesus lol, 21c ambient air? 28c ambient, good ol summer months. Probably need to do maintenance soon too, think I'm just gonna go with distilled water and some additives this time and not a premix concentrate (Mayhem). I think I may have added a bit too much originally lol.
> 
> View attachment 2460176


Temperature in load with the 10980XE with a Signature v2 or Foundation ?


----------



## originxt

tistou77 said:


> Temperature in load with the 10980XE with a Signature v2 or Foundation ?


Hi, depends on the workload and core clocks. If you have a specific workload or game and clockspeed you want, lmk.


----------



## tistou77

originxt said:


> Hi, depends on the workload and core clocks. If you have a specific workload or game and clockspeed you want, lmk.


I asked if the temperature on the screen was in load and if so, with which stress test


----------



## originxt

tistou77 said:


> I asked if the temperature on the screen was in load and if so, with which stress test


Ah my bad, misread. No real load, youtube and discord. Highs were from playing wow earlier. Signature v2.


----------



## tistou77

originxt said:


> Ah my bad, misread. No real load, youtube and discord. Highs were from playing wow earlier. Signature v2.


No worries, ok thanks


----------



## sakete

@Optimus WC How are those 3080 blocks coming along?


----------



## originxt

I'm assuming pt nuke is safe with optimus blocks? How are the dimensions on the FTW3 3090 blocks looking?


----------



## Kashtan

I tried to purchase coldplate nickel for my Sig2, but me also needed accessories - backplate, fasteners springs rings etc. 10 days ago - not response on my email list. I hope Optimus stay alive.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

so this dont get lost in the forum
this is a properly tweaked 7980xe pulling almost close to 500w on a sustained load on a Optimus V2 with ambients around 25c-26c





Spoiler



all cores 49x adaptive overclock 1.300 -0.010v offset -1 avx offset {440w of heat output}


Then after i saw my results i notched a better profile using per core.... if you want to fight with some cpus that have some core discrepancy like that be my guest... the discrepancy.. it also happens more pronounced when shooting higher voltages  (my 7940x doesnt suffer from this too much cores are withing 10c range) my 7980xe at the contrary have super cold cores and one single demon core that loves to be hot no matter what... this is a sustained 470w load too btw XD



this is 100% stable 24/7 XD


----------



## originxt

zGunBLADEz said:


> so this dont get lost in the forum
> this is a properly tweaked 7980xe pulling almost close to 500w on a sustained load on a Optimus V2 with ambients around 25c-26c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> all cores 49x adaptive overclock 1.300 -0.010v offset -1 avx offset {440w of heat output}
> 
> 
> Then after i saw my results i notched a better profile using per core.... if you want to fight with some cpus that have some core discrepancy like that be my guest... the discrepancy.. it also happens more pronounced when shooting higher voltages  (my 7940x doesnt suffer from this too much cores are withing 10c range) my 7980xe at the contrary have super cold cores and one single demon core that loves to be hot no matter what... this is a sustained 470w load too btw XD
> 
> 
> 
> this is 100% stable 24/7 XD


Nice spread on temps. My 10980xe tends to be more loose, may need to settle for per core overclock. Really need a block for my ftw3 3090 though, hitting 70s in my case right now lol.


----------



## darkangelism

EVGA doing a waitlist on their site


----------



## darkangelism

Do we have an ETA on the FTW3 block? I was able to get one


----------



## Section31

darkangelism said:


> Do we have an ETA on the FTW3 block? I was able to get one


Good on EVGA new system. I think its pretty fair. It won't kill scaplers but at least it makes bots useless.


----------



## Diffident

I'd sign up for the wait list, but I don't know for sure what block will be available. I'm not buying a GPU if there is no block. I'm hoping for a FTW but I'll settle for the XC.


----------



## Section31

Diffident said:


> I'd sign up for the wait list, but I don't know for sure what block will be available. I'm not buying a GPU if there is no block. I'm hoping for a FTW but I'll settle for the XC.


We can only go by word of the reps here but FTW/Strix do look like safe bets to receive one. Hopefully we hear back from the people who actually sent in blocks to Optimus to get waterblocked.


----------



## darkangelism

Diffident said:


> I'd sign up for the wait list, but I don't know for sure what block will be available. I'm not buying a GPU if there is no block. I'm hoping for a FTW but I'll settle for the XC.


Just sell it if it doesn't get a block, not like these are losing value anytime soon.


Section31 said:


> We can only go by word of the reps here but FTW/Strix do look like safe bets to receive one. Hopefully we hear back from the people who actually sent in blocks to Optimus to get waterblocked.


yeah and the FTW3 most liking will get a block from EVGA as well if OPC takes months again, even though I trust them that it is mostly done already


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> We can only go by word of the reps here but FTW/Strix do look like safe bets to receive one. Hopefully we hear back from the people who actually sent in blocks to Optimus to get waterblocked.


Definitely getting an XC3, as they currently have my 3080 XC3. And pretty sure they have a FTW3 card as well. I otherwise haven't received any updates from them on ETA.


----------



## Section31

darkangelism said:


> Just sell it if it doesn't get a block, not like these are losing value anytime soon.
> 
> yeah and the FTW3 most liking will get a block from EVGA as well if OPC takes months again, even though I trust them that it is mostly done already


I sure hope so.


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> Just sell it if it doesn't get a block, not like these are losing value anytime soon.


Unless nvidia drops the 3080 20GB right after AMD announcement.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Definitely getting an XC3, as they currently have my 3080 XC3. And pretty sure they have a FTW3 card as well. I otherwise haven't received any updates from them on ETA.


This GPU ride is an adventure. I don't have it yet but already I have to literally re-order some new custom sleeved cables. I kind of prefer the single Nvidia 12pin after doing run with my old set of cables. Busy working at finding the most economical way to get mdpc-x ones into Canada and that's reliable. I literally just paid in advance for an KDBfans Bella DIY Keyboard, so rather not spend so much on cables.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> Unless nvidia drops the 3080 20GB right after AMD announcement.


That is what EVGA step up is for, 90 days to enter the queue to swap models. just put the air cooler back on.


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> That is what EVGA step up is for, 90 days to enter the queue to swap models. just put the air cooler back on.


True.

I hope the board layout doesn't change at all, so you can just slap on the same waterblock. But who knows.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> True.
> 
> I hope the board layout doesn't change at all, so you can just slap on the same waterblock. But who knows.


it shouldn't, just ram chips on both sides of the card like the 3090


----------



## originxt

I hope for they release the block soon for the ftw3. Card got up to 83 in tw:wh2 lol. Need that cooling.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

originxt said:


> Nice spread on temps. My 10980xe tends to be more loose, may need to settle for per core overclock. Really need a block for my ftw3 3090 though, hitting 70s in my case right now lol.


thats the best approach on this system percore even if is tedious and requires a bit more time/tweaking... and if you can go with adaptive even better but i see most ppl dont use it or they are limited or dont know how to approach it.. I know i didnt have no luck whatsoever on my AsRock Extreme4 which was my first board that i got for the 7820x... wasnt expecting to need something that overkill for it motherboard wise. then the itch start and i got a 7940x and finally say screw it and got the top one lol.. Currently own a 7940x and the 7980xe and Evga Dark and the Micro2 the micro 2 is my top favorite board... have nothing to envy on the dark lol.. Those runs were on the Micro2 btw lol it handle it like a boss no problems.. Both evga boards handle adaptive overclocking very good .. Had another micro2 previous the one im using and it handle it very well as well so is not a fluke the board does kick ass


----------



## darkangelism

AMD CPU announcement was kind of underwhelming with the price hikes


----------



## skline00

darkangelism said:


> AMD CPU announcement was kind of underwhelming with the price hikes


??????? Were we watching the same presentation? I thought it was a straight forward phenomenal job.


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> thats the best approach on this system percore even if is tedious and requires a bit more time/tweaking... and if you can go with adaptive even better but i see most ppl dont use it or they are limited or dont know how to approach it.. I know i didnt have no luck whatsoever on my AsRock Extreme4 which was my first board that i got for the 7820x... wasnt expecting to need something that overkill for it motherboard wise. then the itch start and i got a 7940x and finally say screw it and got the top one lol.. Currently own a 7940x and the 7980xe and Evga Dark and the Micro2 the micro 2 is my top favorite board... have nothing to envy on the dark lol.. Those runs were on the Micro2 btw lol it handle it like a boss no problems.. Both evga boards handle adaptive overclocking very good .. Had another micro2 previous the one im using and it handle it very well as well so is not a fluke the board does kick ass


Hi,
Yeah that 7980xe doesn't have near as much dip in the top of the chip as sigV2 has in it's cold plate. 12c core spread is nice though


----------



## Shawnb99

darkangelism said:


> AMD CPU announcement was kind of underwhelming with the price hikes


If they are truly better then Intel why wouldn't they price hike? If true they don't need to compete so they are pricing what the market can bear which Intel has clearly proven it can. Yeah it sucks for the little people, but anyone who thought AMD would still undercut pricing when they have something to beat Intel/Nvidia was kidding themselves. If AMD had a GPU that could beat a 3090 they damn well for sure would sell it for $1500 if not more.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
16 core for 750.us isn't bad lol seeing 3950x started out that much.


----------



## darkangelism

Shawnb99 said:


> If they are truly better then Intel why wouldn't they price hike? If true they don't need to compete so they are pricing what the market can bear which Intel has clearly proven it can. Yeah it sucks for the little people, but anyone who thought AMD would still undercut pricing when they have something to beat Intel/Nvidia was kidding themselves. If AMD had a GPU that could beat a 3090 they damn well for sure would sell it for $1500 if not more.


I expected them to stomp Intel and raise the price but they barely beat them. Benchmarks were 1080p not 1440p or 4k, and it was a 6.6% gain including the 21% gain on LoL and 19% in CSGO, and only 3.25% if you don't include those esports titles. The 10600K is $270, the 10700k is $400. So the 3600X is 10% more expensive and the 3800X is 12% more expensive. If the performance doesn't scale as well at 1440p or 4k, which it didn't in previous gens for both Intel and AMD, that hurts the value. 



 that video shows scaling by resolution. At 1080p the 10900k was 8.25% faster than the 3950X, at 1440p it was only 5%, at 4k 0%. the difference between 5% and 8.25% is 49% so taking 49% of 6.6 the gap between them is potentially only 3.4% at 1440p. 




ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 16 core for 750.us isn't bad lol seeing 3950x started out that much.


16 core is $799. 
The 5900X and 5950X are fine, it is the cheaper ones that I think are bad values, my 3700X was $285, now to get an 8 core it is $165 more. Is a 17-18% gain over a 3700X at 1080p worth a 33% price increase? the gap is even smaller at higher resolutions, i have UW 3440X1440 and will have 4k in a few months, I wouldn't be surprised if it is single digit percent gains at those resolutions.


----------



## Keith Myers

Looks like a great improvement for my use. Pleasantly surprised at only a $50 upcharge over the last generation. I will be getting the 5950X as soon as it is available.


----------



## sakete

Nice that this is still AM4. I can swap out my 3900X for a 5900X/5950X and then keep going for another 3-4 years on the AM4 platform. AND, use my Optimus Foundation block.


----------



## Keith Myers

Still waiting for any Threadripper Zen 3 cpu announcements also. Still have not upgraded the TR Zen+ and decided to wait for Zen 3.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> Nice that this is still AM4. I can swap out my 3900X for a 5900X/5950X and then keep going for another 3-4 years on the AM4 platform. AND, use my Optimus Foundation block.


yeah though they already announced that it would be when they said existing boards would work back during the X470 support controversy. Next gen will be AM5 and DDR5 probably.

I probably will still upgrade to a 5950X but I really wanted them to beat Intel by 15% when the rumors of a 30% performance gain were happening(19% IPC and 10% clockspeed) as it stands rocket lake in March and Intel supposedly gaining 15% probably will take back the gaming performance crown.


----------



## Section31

darkangelism said:


> yeah though they already announced that it would be when they said existing boards would work back during the X470 support controversy. Next gen will be AM5 and DDR5 probably.
> 
> I probably will still upgrade to a 5950X but I really wanted them to beat Intel by 15% when the rumors of a 30% performance gain were happening(19% IPC and 10% clockspeed) as it stands rocket lake in March and Intel supposedly gaining 15% probably will take back the gaming performance crown.


Thing is Intel 14nm was dead for long time(hence the joke). The true competitor always was delayed Alderlake/MeteorLake. I wish i could update but no more budget this year. I got PS5, 3080 10gb/20gb, GPU waterblock, New Custom DIY Keyboard and have to order additional custom sleeved cables in. Going to hold off till LGA1700 (Alderlake/MetorLake) and AM5 (Ryzen 6000)


----------



## darkangelism

yeah that is a lot of stuff, i did the same thing but should be good for at least a few years, just need a ps5 and maybe a 5950X depending on reviews at 4k.


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> yeah though they already announced that it would be when they said existing boards would work back during the X470 support controversy. Next gen will be AM5 and DDR5 probably.
> 
> I probably will still upgrade to a 5950X but I really wanted them to beat Intel by 15% when the rumors of a 30% performance gain were happening(19% IPC and 10% clockspeed) as it stands rocket lake in March and Intel supposedly gaining 15% probably will take back the gaming performance crown.


I'm tempted to make the jump from 3900 to 5950, going from 12 to 16 cores. Besides gaming, I could probably use the extra cores for all the photo processing I do. But, I'll make that decision in the spring or so. Just bought the 3080, and also just bought a new camera. I'm poor right now.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> I'm tempted to make the jump from 3900 to 5950, going from 12 to 16 cores. Besides gaming, I could probably use the extra cores for all the photo processing I do. But, I'll make that decision in the spring or so. Just bought the 3080, and also just bought a new camera. I'm poor right now.


yeah it was going to be an easy choice for me earlier this year going from 8 cores to 16 for premiere pro but once they added CUDA encoding the cpu didn't matter, it is a savings of 2 or 3 minutes on a 20 minute encode whereas pure cpu encode was 40 minutes that would have gone to 20.
i am trying not to think about how much money i have spent on tech this year, displays: alienware aw3420dw, eve spectrum 4k, reverb g2. PC new CPU/GPU/motherboard, ram, radiator,fans, fan controller, nvme. Series X and still will try for a PS5 and potentially a 5900X or 5950X and the 3080 20GB if i can step up to it.


----------



## Section31

darkangelism said:


> yeah it was going to be an easy choice for me earlier this year going from 8 cores to 16 for premiere pro but once they added CUDA encoding the cpu didn't matter, it is a savings of 2 or 3 minutes on a 20 minute encode whereas pure cpu encode was 40 minutes that would have gone to 20.
> i am trying not to think about how much money i have spent on tech this year, displays: alienware aw3420dw, eve spectrum 4k, reverb g2. PC new CPU/GPU/motherboard, ram, radiator,fans, fan controller, nvme. Series X and still will try for a PS5 and potentially a 5900X or 5950X and the 3080 20GB if i can step up to it.


I get you, I got to plan ahead for AM5/LGA1700 and that includes DDR5 RAM, Next Gen NVME, Possible New CPU Block and also got to start saving early for 2022 GPU's based on TSMC 5nm (Nvidia/AMD/Intel).


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> yeah it was going to be an easy choice for me earlier this year going from 8 cores to 16 for premiere pro but once they added CUDA encoding the cpu didn't matter, it is a savings of 2 or 3 minutes on a 20 minute encode whereas pure cpu encode was 40 minutes that would have gone to 20.
> i am trying not to think about how much money i have spent on tech this year, displays: alienware aw3420dw, eve spectrum 4k, reverb g2. PC new CPU/GPU/motherboard, ram, radiator,fans, fan controller, nvme. Series X and still will try for a PS5 and potentially a 5900X or 5950X and the 3080 20GB if i can step up to it.


Man, same here. When this whole pandemic hit, I went from a 5 year old system (Intel 4790K platform) to Ryzen 9 3900 / X570 platform. AND I did my first full custom waterloop. The loop alone, along with all the controllers (Aquaero stuff) set me back around $1500. Add on top of that the new system. And then now the 3080 (and yeah, maybe I'll also try to step up to a 20GB XC3 or FTW3 if that comes out soon), and then also just got the Canon R5 + a couple lenses (though I did sell all my Nikon Z gear to partially fund that. I just like the Canon ergonomics better than Nikon, having originally been a Canon shooter).

It's been an expensive year. My other hobby is being an audiophile, but I did all that last year. Oh wait, I forgot, I built a state of the art 2 channel class-D amp for my system in May (using Purifi Audio modules). ****, a very expensive year!


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> Man, same here. When this whole pandemic hit, I went from a 5 year old system (Intel 4790K platform) to Ryzen 9 3900 / X570 platform. AND I did my first full custom waterloop. The loop alone, along with all the controllers (Aquaero stuff) set me back around $1500. Add on top of that the new system. And then now the 3080 (and yeah, maybe I'll also try to step up to a 20GB XC3 or FTW3 if that comes out soon), and then also just got the Canon R5 + a couple lenses (though I did sell all my Nikon Z gear to partially fund that. I just like the Canon ergonomics better than Nikon, having originally been a Canon shooter).
> 
> It's been an expensive year. My other hobby is being an audiophile, but I did all that last year. Oh wait, I forgot, I built a state of the art 2 channel class-D amp for my system in May (using Purifi Audio modules). ****, a very expensive year!


nice, i also came from a 4790k. The rumor on the 20GB cards is Dec. My guess is they announce the day that the Radeon 6000s are released. 


Ok so i used gamersnexus numbers instead of hardware unboxed, they had about a 15% gap between the 3900XT and the 10900K (Rather than the 8% hardware unboxed had) at 1080p. Which adding the 6.6% from the AMD presentation would make it about a 21% gain over a 3900XT. AMD is claiming 25% gain from the 3900XT to the 5900X, but a 4% gap in numbers is a lot better than the 11% using hardware unboxed. Still really need to see 1440p and 4k numbers but it isn't as terrible as I thought initially.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Man, same here. When this whole pandemic hit, I went from a 5 year old system (Intel 4790K platform) to Ryzen 9 3900 / X570 platform. AND I did my first full custom waterloop. The loop alone, along with all the controllers (Aquaero stuff) set me back around $1500. Add on top of that the new system. And then now the 3080 (and yeah, maybe I'll also try to step up to a 20GB XC3 or FTW3 if that comes out soon), and then also just got the Canon R5 + a couple lenses (though I did sell all my Nikon Z gear to partially fund that. I just like the Canon ergonomics better than Nikon, having originally been a Canon shooter).
> 
> It's been an expensive year. My other hobby is being an audiophile, but I did all that last year. Oh wait, I forgot, I built a state of the art 2 channel class-D amp for my system in May (using Purifi Audio modules). ****, a very expensive year!


My wife wants an new cannon dslr. I told her to wait till we can travel. She didn't like the Nikon Z6 my family bought last year though I find it perfectly fine. I can't fund all want hobbies, just the important ones.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> My wife wants an new cannon dslr. I told her to wait till we can travel. She didn't like the Nikon Z6 my family bought last year though I find it perfectly fine. I can't fund all want hobbies, just the important ones.


Hi,
I'm sure that went well  
Woman's hobbies are more important always lol that usually goes well for your hobbies later.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> My wife wants an new cannon dslr. I told her to wait till we can travel. She didn't like the Nikon Z6 my family bought last year though I find it perfectly fine. I can't fund all want hobbies, just the important ones.


I actually came from the Z6. Good camera, but the AF on the Canon R5 is simply amazing. And I like the slightly bigger body. The Z6 was just a bit too small for my hands.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I'm sure that went well
> Woman's hobbies are more important always lol that usually goes well for your hobbies later.


She was ok with it. She wants the New Ipad Pro more so she is getting that next year (the model with the a14 soc).


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> I actually came from the Z6. Good camera, but the AF on the Canon R5 is simply amazing. And I like the slightly bigger body. The Z6 was just a bit too small for my hands.


She's used to Cannon too so makes sense. I am fairly flexible on camera though i have bias toward Sony Alpha Cameras (had an A6000 prior to the Nikon z6). That was one of the best deal cameras in the last while. All the new cameras releases have only increased in price.


----------



## garyd9

As for AMD vs Intel... I'd have much preferred to stay with the ryzen 3900x I had vs the i9-10850K I ended up with. I'm sure I'd be happier with the newer 5900x as well. Except for one thing: There's an incompatibility between the 3900x's AMD's SMT and a program I _must_ be able to use for work. I've already lost quite a bit of money selling the 3900x and m/b at a "used" discount, and I'm not going to take that risk again.

If AMD wants to send me a chip (and m/b) to beta test, fine. If they fixed the problem, I'd even spend the money to buy another CPU and m/b. Otherwise, I have to stay employed.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Ermmm when i saw the $299 price tag for the 6 cores i said amd must be smoking intel crap... Theres no way i will paid none of those prices amd put as msrb..

The 16 cores is as bad as current one price wise lol.
Specially knowing their yields are almost perfect bcuz of design theres no reason to be asking for that price specially knowing that info and that x299 still very relevant in todays era now more than ever been.


Like x299 is dirt cheap and offer more than that in that regards.


----------



## Shawnb99

Like many of you I'm tapped out for the year. Am in the process of rebuilding my whole loop, when done only thing not new will be my Sig 2. I'm waiting for 4x series GPU's then I'll upgrade my system, hopefully I won't redo my whole loop again.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> Like many of you I'm tapped out for the year. Am in the process of rebuilding my whole loop, when done only thing not new will be my Sig 2. I'm waiting for 4x series GPU's then I'll upgrade my system, hopefully I won't redo my whole loop again.


Redoing your whole loop? Damn. You already have a crazy loop going on. 

I will only do that if I ever upgrade to a bigger case and that's at least a few years away.


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> Redoing your whole loop? Damn. You already have a crazy loop going on.
> 
> I will only do that if I ever upgrade to a bigger case and that's at least a few years away.



Well most of it. Switching over to hardline, adding in a pair of Distro plates, switching over to at least 4x D5 Next's, maybe even 6 of them. and adding another 480 radiator or swapping my 360 for it. Not sure yet how I'm going to route everything.
Adding the distro plates complicates things a bit now, routing became a whole lot more difficult. Damn reverse ATX case.
Also going to soundproof the case as well. Should be my "last" upgrade to the loop for long time.


----------



## taowulf

Ordered a Foundation block, got it a week later. Man, those fins are unreal.

Going to be a while before it gets installed though.


----------



## sakete

@Optimus WC Any progress pics of the GPU blocks?


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> @Optimus WC Any progress pics of the GPU blocks?


yeah this


----------



## originxt

sakete said:


> @Optimus WC Any progress pics of the GPU blocks?


Must be busy. Sent them an email regarding it too at the start of the week but no reply.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> @Optimus WC Any progress pics of the GPU blocks?


Optimus is like that it appears. Sometimes there customer service is busy. Part of life as small Operations.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Redoing your whole loop? Damn. You already have a crazy loop going on.
> 
> I will only do that if I ever upgrade to a bigger case and that's at least a few years away.


That's going to be one tough cookie. It's been like that since caselabs went under. Difficult to find cases that support multiple thick radiators (especially in the 480mm/560mm range). Watercoolers always seem to have tendancy to redo the loop i have noticed. It's been case with me too though i think having no caselabs kills the urges so I am going to do one final build.


----------



## Shawnb99

I'm mostly redoing it this time to fill up all the empty space and that meant adding a pair of reservoirs so I figured why not add pumps at the same time and that lead to replacing all my pumps and it just snowballed from there.

This "should" be my last time redoing the loop.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> That's going to be one tough cookie. It's been like that since caselabs went under. Difficult to find cases that support multiple thick radiators (especially in the 480mm/560mm range). Watercoolers always seem to have tendancy to redo the loop i have noticed. It's been case with me too though i think having no caselabs kills the urges so I am going to do one final build.


The TT W200 is currently a good candidate for huge watercooling cases. Yeah I know it's an inferior copy of a Caselabs case, but allegedly the build quality is pretty good and it's a lot cheaper than trying to get a used Caselabs case from ebay.

Maybe in a few years there will be more options. I'd like to see lian Li make a giant no compromise case. The 011 XL is OK, but if you need any kind of storage capacity, like good old HDDs, those drives get super hot in the 011 XL (I had the case and returned it for that reason), as there's 0 airflow towards HDDs, and the HDD cage is almost completely sealed.

It does seem like the interest in custom loops is increasing, so more of a market for it. But maybe I'm just imagining it.


----------



## Shawnb99

It's still Thermalfake and even if they came out with a perfect copy of Caselabs case I still wouldn't buy from them. In no way will they ever get my money, even if they made the best of anything.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> The TT W200 is currently a good candidate for huge watercooling cases. Yeah I know it's an inferior copy of a Caselabs case, but allegedly the build quality is pretty good and it's a lot cheaper than trying to get a used Caselabs case from ebay.
> 
> Maybe in a few years there will be more options. I'd like to see lian Li make a giant no compromise case. The 011 XL is OK, but if you need any kind of storage capacity, like good old HDDs, those drives get super hot in the 011 XL (I had the case and returned it for that reason), as there's 0 airflow towards HDDs, and the HDD cage is almost completely sealed.
> 
> It does seem like the interest in custom loops is increasing, so more of a market for it. But maybe I'm just imagining it.


I'm hoping LianLi improve on that Odyssey X design. Most of them (reddit ones) are on the low end market i have found. I have dealt with some of the new people wanting water parts, they really don't know what they are getting into. That and they are the group that goes either Barrows or EKWB. I don't think they are at the stage where they will go Optimus, Heatkiller, Aquacomputer. They know the good stuff but would only would take it if offered for bargain basement/free. I have spent hours helping some of them and some ask if you can order for them/build for them and they pay for parts only.


----------



## garyd9

Shawnb99 said:


> It's still Thermalfake and even if they came out with a perfect copy of Caselabs case I still wouldn't buy from them. In no way will they ever get my money, even if they made the best of anything.


It's easy to say that when you already have a caselabs case (or could have afforded one a few years ago.) For the rest of us, we do the best we can with our budgets and what's actually available for sale.


----------



## Mroberts95

Optimus currently has my FTW3 3090 that I sent in.
Sent the 25th and they received the 28th.
I haven’t had an update this week but it seemed things were going good last time we talked. I hope I get some good news this week on progress or getting my card back, as long as it’s done right is all that matters.


----------



## originxt

Just curious, has anyone seen the numbers behind Optimus gpu blocks? I know their cpu blocks are good but have there been any test results comparing optimus gpu blocks to other blocks?


----------



## Mroberts95

I don’t think so, 
I’m not sure any 2080ti blocks ever got made. I think they bit off more than they could chew when they first got started. Hopefully the 3080/3090 blocks will be a good start into the gpu market.


----------



## EniGma1987

taowulf said:


> Ordered a Foundation block, got it a week later. Man, those fins are unreal.
> 
> Going to be a while before it gets installed though.


Good to know. I ordered one as well a week ago now and havent seen any communication from them other than the initial order confirmation. I was going to email them come Monday and ask for an update if I hadnt received the block yet but this gives me hope that it is probably on the way already.


----------



## sakete

Mroberts95 said:


> I don’t think so,
> I’m not sure any 2080ti blocks ever got made. I think they bit off more than they could chew when they first got started. Hopefully the 3080/3090 blocks will be a good start into the gpu market.


Correct, these 30xx blocks should be their first blocks to get to market. They have my 3080 XC3 and I last heard from them a week ago. I'm hoping to get my card + block before end of this month, in time for Cyberpunk (which gets released mid Nov, I know, but I first want to enjoy it with some other games before I'll probably only be playing Cyberpunk for a while).


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Correct, these 30xx blocks should be their first blocks to get to market. They have my 3080 XC3 and I last heard from them a week ago. I'm hoping to get my card + block before end of this month, in time for Cyberpunk (which gets released mid Nov, I know, but I first want to enjoy it with some other games before I'll probably only be playing Cyberpunk for a while).


I hope so. I would send the strix over if i could get ahold of one. However i am still willing to go on the ftw3 if it drops


----------



## Mroberts95

Good to know, if you get any news let me know and vice versa, before last email I got they had tested my card and had blocks designed and manufacturing then back on the 30th of September. So I am hoping to get it back in the next two weeks as I go on a business trip soon and won’t be home for 4-6 weeks.


----------



## acoustic

Has anyone sent them a 3080 FTW3?

Strange we haven't seen their normal rep talking in the thread. They must be all-hands-on-deck working on GPU blocks


----------



## zervun

Got my computer up and a successful leak test for 24 hours.

Unfortunately looks like my threadripper block has some plating issues from what I can see - thoughts? I was going to reach out to optimus. The pump nickel plated tornado piece and my bitspower titan V waterblock look fine, just the CPU block.

Both radiators were only flushed out with distilled water. Have not used any biocide, additives or anything except distilled water. It's also been drained/flushed 3 times.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah experimental nickle plating worst part it's different company messing this process up for optimus.
People really do have to get off the nickle plating thing copper only damn it. @Optimus WC


----------



## acoustic

Good to know. Will go raw copper then..

If you have an acrylic top though, won't the copper eventually change color over time? That was the whole point of nickel?


----------



## ThrashZone

acoustic said:


> Good to know. Will go raw copper then..
> 
> If you have an acrylic top though, won't the copper eventually change color over time? That was the whole point of nickel?


Hi,
No
It would take direct sun light through a window and a lot of air on the copper to do anything and even then take a long time.

Point of nickle is purely looks.


----------



## acoustic

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> No
> It would take direct sun light through a window and a lot of air on the copper to do anything and even then take a long time.
> 
> Point of nickle is purely looks.


Appreciate it!


----------



## zervun

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah experimental nickle plating worst part it's different company messing this process up for optimus.
> People really do have to get off the nickle plating thing copper only damn it.


Thanks for the feedback. I have reached out to optimus. Of note I got my pump with the nickle plated tornado piece many months back (Q1 of 2020) so it was probably before the different company's nickle plating hense why it was probably ok. I actually optioned to have a copper backplate (original order was nickel) to get it faster when they were having issues but they ended up sending me a nickle anyway.


----------



## Kana Chan

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah experimental nickle plating worst part it's different company messing this process up for optimus.
> People really do have to get off the nickle plating thing copper only damn it.


They're going to make every in orange color? Even the D5 pump top?


----------



## ThrashZone

Kana Chan said:


> They're going to make every in orange color? Even the D5 pump top?


Hi,
Brass or copper baby that is so steam punk


----------



## ThrashZone

zervun said:


> Thanks for the feedback. I have reached out to optimus. Of note I got my pump with the nickle plated tornado piece many months back (Q1 of 2020) so it was probably before the different company's nickle plating hense why it was probably ok. I actually optioned to have a copper backplate (original order was nickel) to get it faster when they were having issues but they ended up sending me a nickle anyway.


Hi,
Yeah that was before all the corona crap hit 
Now days it's screwing everything up.

The entire distilled water only claim is really a dumb remark for optimus to have ever claimed was a good thing to be compatible with.
*Not that it has anything to do with the nickle flaws on the amd block* just long term issues without proper inhibitor+ and biocide+ mayhems products used with distilled water.


----------



## zervun

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah that was before all the corona crap hit
> Now days it's screwing everything up.
> 
> The entire distilled water only claim is really a dumb remark for optimus to have ever claimed was a good thing to be compatible with.
> *Not that it has anything to do with the nickle flaws on the amd block* just long term issues without proper inhibitor+ and biocide+ mayhems products used with distilled water.


Ya, I just noted the distilled water only because I haven't added anything yet. I have inhibitor+ and biocide+ ready to go but I saw these imperfections first. Didn't want to have any arguments with Optimus over where something else was causing it.

I've had great success with just a few drops of biocide/inhibitor in the past. In my old build I'm replacing I added a couple drops of each when I first built it and I haven't changed the water since (which yes I should have)... it's been about 8 years and just recently only showing a little bit of dirtyness... No corrosion on any of the parts.

I probably should change my water more often but hey if it works don't fix it  I don't think I've changed my water on any systems I have built until I replaced them. Been watercooling since before the dangerden days... Think my first waterblock was on my pentium pro (I made one myself out of copper) way back in the day if I remember correctly.


----------



## Mroberts95

acoustic said:


> Has anyone sent them a 3080 FTW3?
> 
> Strange we haven't seen their normal rep talking in the thread. They must be all-hands-on-deck working on GPU blocks


Probably busy working in them is my guess as well. I hope to get an update this week at some point. I’ll email again Wednesday for an update and share info if I can


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Brass or copper baby that is so steam punk


Matches with Noctua fans perfectly.


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Matches with Noctua fans perfectly.


Hi,
Fans wise love the new noctua black versions although I don't have any atm.


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Fans wise love the new noctua black versions although I don't have any atm.


The NF-A12x25 is the one to get, but the black version doesn't come out until at least Q1.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> The NF-A12x25 is the one to get, but the black version doesn't come out until at least Q1.


On the A12x25 but you wouldn’t believe me on this. Due to low supply with the A12x25 in Canada, I have people asking me to sell/give them my A12x25 anytime i mention i hold 14 of them. I had that many because i had two water cooled rigs (but going back to one now)


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> On the A12x25 but you wouldn’t believe me on this. Due to low supply with the A12x25 in Canada, I have people asking me to sell/give them my A12x25 anytime i mention i hold 14 of them. I had that many because i had two water cooled rigs (but going back to one now)


I was waiting on the black version to come out, as original ETA was Q3. But then it got pushed to Q1 so I got silent wings 3 instead. So now I have 4x NF-A12x25 on my 480 rad (fans not visible, so it's the brown fans). And 3x SW3 on my 360 rad.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> I was waiting on the black version to come out, as original ETA was Q3. But then it got pushed to Q1 so I got silent wings 3 instead. So now I have 4x NF-A12x25 on my 480 rad (fans not visible, so it's the brown fans). And 3x SW3 on my 360 rad.


Not bad choice. I dare not mention on reddit publicly anymore i have so many fans, I will get lot of pms lol.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> Not bad choice. I dare not mention on reddit publicly anymore i have so many fans, I will get lot of pms lol.


I'm now wondering if I should add another 360 or 480 rad as front intake. Currently have 3x140 as front intake fans.

Setup would then be 480 rad side intake, 360 rad top intake, 480/360 rad front intake, 2x140 fan rear exhaust, 120 fan bottom intake.

Wonder if this would push too much heat into the case and if I should flip one of the rads to exhaust.


----------



## darkangelism

power limit on these cards is holding back performance, undervolting so i didn't hit the power cap boosted my performance 11845 in port royal. Probably could break 12k with a better cpu


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> I'm now wondering if I should add another 360 or 480 rad as front intake. Currently have 3x140 as front intake fans.
> 
> Setup would then be 480 rad side intake, 360 rad top intake, 480/360 rad front intake, 2x140 fan rear exhaust, 120 fan bottom intake.
> 
> Wonder if this would push too much heat into the case and if I should flip one of the rads to exhaust.


Always questions watercoolers ask. Are you going for heatkiller new radiators?


----------



## acoustic

sakete said:


> I'm now wondering if I should add another 360 or 480 rad as front intake. Currently have 3x140 as front intake fans.
> 
> Setup would then be 480 rad side intake, 360 rad top intake, 480/360 rad front intake, 2x140 fan rear exhaust, 120 fan bottom intake.
> 
> Wonder if this would push too much heat into the case and if I should flip one of the rads to exhaust.


What case is this in? Sounds like a Phanteks or Caselabs.

I don't think you can go wrong with that many rads. I doubt the air gets that warm when you're running that much radiator surface area, plus you have a 120mm fan blowing ambient air into the case as well. I think that setup would be extremely efficient. Lots of positive air pressure too!


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> Always questions watercoolers ask. Are you going for heatkiller new radiators?


I need a slim rad, can't be more than 30mm thick, and will need to be no more than 125mm wide due to clearance issues. So that rules out the HWL GTS for example, but does allow for the HWL L line (a budget version of the GTS). No idea what the specs are on those watercool rads.

Alphacool rads could also be an option.


----------



## sakete

acoustic said:


> What case is this in? Sounds like a Phanteks or Caselabs.
> 
> I don't think you can go wrong with that many rads. I doubt the air gets that warm when you're running that much radiator surface area, plus you have a 120mm fan blowing ambient air into the case as well. I think that setup would be extremely efficient. Lots of positive air pressure too!


Yeah, Phanteks Enthoo Luxe 2/719.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> I need a slim rad, can't be more than 30mm thick, and will need to be no more than 125mm wide due to clearance issues. So that rules out the HWL GTS for example, but does allow for the HWL L line (a budget version of the GTS). No idea what the specs are on those watercool rads.
> 
> Alphacool rads could also be an option.


The new heatkiller rads are 30mm/45mm. Out in November. Me , some other users and shawnb99 have been trying to get more info on it.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> The new heatkiller rads are 30mm/45mm. Out in November. Me , some other users and shawnb99 have been trying to get more info on it.


Hmmm, I might consider those. 30mm might work if they're not too wide.


----------



## Kana Chan

ThrashZone said:


> The entire distilled water only claim is really a dumb remark for optimus to have ever claimed was a good thing to be compatible with.
> *Not that it has anything to do with the nickle flaws on the amd block* just long term issues without proper inhibitor+ and biocide+ mayhems products used with distilled water.


 I thought they said it'd be fine if they had their own radiators to pair it with?


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> On the A12x25 but you wouldn’t believe me on this. Due to low supply with the A12x25 in Canada, I have people asking me to sell/give them my A12x25 anytime i mention i hold 14 of them. I had that many because i had two water cooled rigs (but going back to one now)


Out of stock basically everywhere. Amazon had some in stock last week but I missed out  I need another 8-15 of them. Stock has been bad for a while now.


----------



## originxt

Shawnb99 said:


> Out of stock basically everywhere. Amazon had some in stock last week but I missed out  I need another 8-15 of them. Stock has been bad for a while now.


Glad I got my 10 beautiful brown and tan a12x25s that match up with the red coolant, white case and black pcbs when I did lol. I think stock for computer components and peripherals will be very limited for a while, probably well into next year since we've got the holiday season coming which further lowers stock, and then chinese new years where production basically ceases, drying up whatever stock is left.

@ThrashZone What's wrong with mayhem products? Only one I used is there blood red concentrate and it doesn't seem to cause any issues yet at least. I'll probably move to distilled water and pt nuke when I run out of the concentrate but the coolant still seems fine so far a year in.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Out of stock basically everywhere. Amazon had some in stock last week but I missed out  I need another 8-15 of them. Stock has been bad for a while now.


Yeah i have noticed that for many of the top radiator fans. I'm probably going to give the excess fans away once I finalize the radiator setup. I have 6 x LianLi Uni fans too lol.


----------



## Shawnb99

I'm going to be forced ordering the 8 I need from Amazon.com. Was lucky to grab 16 of the 2k industrials today but none of the a12's left. Damn things really start to add up


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I'm going to be forced ordering the 8 I need from Amazon.com. Was lucky to grab 16 of the 2k industrials today but none of the a12's left. Damn things really start to add up


That's watercooling. Watercooling Accessories, etc add up to more than actual hardware.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> That's watercooling. Watercooling Accessories, etc add up to more than actual hardware.


Isn't that the truth. A lesson I learned this year doing my first watercooled build (granted, I probably went way overboard spending ~$1500 on watercooling gear).

Just fittings alone. Pffff.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

im using PCCOOLER fans on my main rig and those bastards push more air than even my corsair sp120s grey fans that i have running at 13v pushing over 3k+ rpms....
or my gentle typhoons AP60.. bcuz the new corsairs whichever new now it sucks they just charging you now for rgb they dont perform no more..

Tempted to change my phobya 1260 artic P14 fans now with them pccoolers


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Glad I got my 10 beautiful brown and tan a12x25s that match up with the red coolant, white case and black pcbs when I did lol. I think stock for computer components and peripherals will be very limited for a while, probably well into next year since we've got the holiday season coming which further lowers stock, and then chinese new years where production basically ceases, drying up whatever stock is left.
> 
> @ThrashZone What's wrong with mayhem products? Only one I used is there blood red concentrate and it doesn't seem to cause any issues yet at least. I'll probably move to distilled water and pt nuke when I run out of the concentrate but the coolant still seems fine so far a year in.


Hi,
Nothing really X1 clear has a 50-50% chance of turning greenish but all color fluid stains and sometimes falls out and clogs cpu/ gpu blocks not to mention what happens inside radiators which you can't see so can turn into a real mess just for color eye candy.

Otherwise I'm off color fluids and sort of off mayhems direct and use local modmymods.com clear premix fluid which is based off mayhems XT-1 fluids.
So being in the USA I can get it locally cheaper like 9.us per liter.








ModMyMods.com premix Fluids is made from Mayhems...


Hi, Modmymods has clear coolant and a discount code for one free using coolant at checkout add 2 to cart one is free Turns out modmymods uses x1 clear concentrate and local distilled water It's only 8.99 per liter saving 5.00 at the least ! plus one for free is a great deal...




www.overclock.net


----------



## Mroberts95

I currently have Corsair XL5 Clear however I just ordered the Mystic Fog from EKWB over the weekend. Will be interested to see how that does.
Was also told Optimus new blocks will need a GPU support etc cause of how beefy they are.

I cant confirm this 100% but I ordered the EKWB vertical mount with motherboard support as well.


----------



## ThrashZone

Mroberts95 said:


> I currently have Corsair XL5 Clear however I just ordered the Mystic Fog from EKWB over the weekend. Will be interested to see how that does.
> Was also told Optimus new blocks will need a GPU support etc cause of how beefy they are.
> 
> I cant confirm this 100% but I ordered the EKWB vertical mount with motherboard support as well.


Hi,
Good luck with ek fluids lol


----------



## Sir Beregond

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nothing really X1 clear has a 50-50% chance of turning greenish


Clear fluid turns green? What are they putting in it for it to do that?



> but all color fluid stains and sometimes falls out and clogs cpu/ gpu blocks not to mention what happens inside radiators which you can't see so can turn into a real mess just for color eye candy.


Agree. I've seen enough horror shows, I'm never using colored fluid, especially that opaque stuff. _shudders_



> Otherwise I'm off color fluids and sort of off mayhems direct and use local modmymods.com clear premix fluid which is based off mayhems XT-1 fluids.
> So being in the USA I can get it locally cheaper like 9.us per liter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ModMyMods.com premix Fluids is made from Mayhems...
> 
> 
> Hi, Modmymods has clear coolant and a discount code for one free using coolant at checkout add 2 to cart one is free Turns out modmymods uses x1 clear concentrate and local distilled water It's only 8.99 per liter saving 5.00 at the least ! plus one for free is a great deal...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net


That's a great price.


----------



## darkangelism

I did some power testing on the FTW3, EVGA claims a 420W limit but it is really only 400W. The card slams into this wall at stock, really need water and a higher limit bios.
My memory only overclocks +300 before the scores get worse but plenty of people have had better luck with memory. 
Port Royale stock ~11400 power draw 400W
undervolted to 975mv capped at 2000Mhz ~11800 power draw 393W
undervolt to 900mv capped at 1900mhz ~11500 power draw 327W
undervolt to 850mv capped at 1850mhz ~11300 power draw 292W
undervolt to 800mv capped at 1800mhz ~11100 power draw 270W

also just having RTX voice beta installed and running in the background without an active mic was taking 100 points off the score. 
I need a bigger UPS, kept hitting the 600W power draw limit if I have both of my monitors on.


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Good luck with ek fluids lol


I've gotten the clumping and turning green with ek fluids. No luck needed when it's crap


----------



## Mroberts95

I used Cryofuel Pastel White and had no issues before switching to Corsair Clear.

If I have issues I can drain and flush very easily. I just wanted to test it out!


----------



## ThrashZone

Mroberts95 said:


> I used Cryofuel Pastel White and had no issues before switching to Corsair Clear.
> 
> If I have issues I can drain and flush very easily. I just wanted to test it out!


Hi,
Had to look for it but if the fluid looks like this behind a light don't bother using it simple flush yeah right lol


----------



## mongoled

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Had to look for it but if the fluid looks like this behind a light don't bother using it simple flush yeah right lol


Where is the snowman ?


----------



## ThrashZone

mongoled said:


> Where is the snowman ?


Hi,
Problem is that crap don't melt lol it sticks to everything.


----------



## Mroberts95

I am using Corsair Performance Clear right now.

I had Pastel white and flushed it out with distilled water with a 1.5-2 gallons and switched to Corsair. I have no issues with corsairs fluid whatsoever and did not with pastel either. I just wanted a change.

I have never used Cryofuel Clear in any regard so I cannot comment on how it is.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mroberts95 said:


> I am using Corsair Performance Clear right now.
> 
> I had Pastel white and flushed it out with distilled water with a 1.5-2 gallons and switched to Corsair. I have no issues with corsairs fluid whatsoever and did not with pastel either. I just wanted a change.
> 
> I have never used Cryofuel Clear in any regard so I cannot comment on how it is.


Corsair is just branded with a markup for the sailboat. Was Mayhems at one point, not sure who they are using now


----------



## Mroberts95

It is still Mayhem coolant rebranded as their own as far as I am aware. Works perfectly fine and has been running for 6 months with clear at this point.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Corsair fluids are rebranded Mayhems X1 products 
Modmymods is XT-1 products that actually made in the USA


----------



## ThrashZone

Mroberts95 said:


> It is still Mayhem coolant rebranded as their own as far as I am aware. Works perfectly fine and has been running for 6 months with clear at this point.


Hi,
What EK's I don't believe so they dumped mayhems for more profit to make it themselves long ago.


----------



## Mroberts95

I think EKWB is made in house for their Cryofuel Clear. But never used it, I know some have issues and some don't. I have 4lt of Corsair to go back to if the new mystic fog sucks.


----------



## Mroberts95

Wonder if we will get an update this week from Optimus.

They have had my FTW3 3090 for two weeks to the day today. Havent seen any renders etc of cards.
Hope they look nice!


----------



## originxt

Mroberts95 said:


> Wonder if we will get an update this week from Optimus.
> 
> They have had my FTW3 3090 for two weeks to the day today. Havent seen any renders etc of cards.
> Hope they look nice!


I hope so too... I'd like to see how my card performs under some better temps.


----------



## ThrashZone

Mroberts95 said:


> I think EKWB is made in house for their Cryofuel Clear. But never used it, I know some have issues and some don't. I have 4lt of Corsair to go back to if the new mystic fog sucks.


Hi,
As long as that house is in Slovenia yes it is and not affiliated with mayhems products anymore.
Cryocrap is when they stopped.


----------



## gengar

Anyone order with Optimus recently? Placed an order last week and haven't heard anything.


----------



## Twintale

Yea, placed order on 8-th and still waiting for...something to happen...


----------



## acoustic

That is not a good sign.


----------



## Shawnb99

acoustic said:


> That is not a good sign.


It’s not even 5 days. Comeback when it’s 5 weeks and you can overreact then


----------



## acoustic

Shawnb99 said:


> It’s not even 5 days. Comeback when it’s 5 weeks and you can overreact then


Not responding to new orders? That is very strange especially for Optimus. I'm not sure how saying something is not a good sign is an overreaction. I didn't say the company was dead and the world is ending lol


----------



## Shawnb99

acoustic said:


> Not responding to new orders? That is very strange especially for Optimus. I'm not sure how saying something is not a good sign is an overreaction. I didn't say the company was dead and the world is ending lol


As I said it’s only been a few days with one of those a “holiday”. If haven’t heard anything by the end of week sure I’d be concerned but it’s only Tuesday


----------



## acoustic

The guy above said he placed an order last week and hasn't heard anything. I suppose it could have been later in the week. Just strange is all; Optimus is usually on top of those things from everything I've read/heard about them. Plus, my favorite company PR guy hasn't been around in a few days


----------



## Mroberts95

Yeah I emailed a week ago and havent heard back about my card. Last response was on 10/3/2020 in the morning from Josh.
Somebody said his wife just had a baby so could be why. Getting nervous.


----------



## gengar

acoustic said:


> Not responding to new orders? That is very strange especially for Optimus. I'm not sure how saying something is not a good sign is an overreaction. I didn't say the company was dead and the world is ending lol


Yeah, it's not a good look. I know that Optimus is (or at least seems) highly regarded but this gives a real fly-by-night impression.


----------



## Sir Beregond

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> As long as that house is in Slovenia yes it is and not affiliated with mayhems products anymore.
> Cryocrap is when they stopped.


Cryofuel? More like Cry, no fuel!


----------



## originxt

I got the clear cryofuel when I first made my loop... Was egg white colored for about 30 days until I started getting algae growth in my tubes. Never again...


----------



## darkangelism

I switched to pure de ioned water and mayhems biocide extreme/corrosion inhibitor, no more premix


----------



## sakete

Mroberts95 said:


> Yeah I emailed a week ago and havent heard back about my card. Last response was on 10/3/2020 in the morning from Josh.
> Somebody said his wife just had a baby so could be why. Getting nervous.


I just sent Josh another email, and CC'ed the main Optimus email address + another email address I have from them when I placed an order with them back in April. I'll see what they say.


----------



## Mroberts95

Sounds good!


----------



## Sir Beregond

darkangelism said:


> I switched to pure de ioned water and mayhems biocide extreme/corrosion inhibitor, no more premix


I did that with distilled. Nothing grew in my loop but man that EK plating sure fell apart. That said, sure that would have happened with premix too.


----------



## kaydubbed

Aluminum EK Rad?

That stuff is chemically designed to fail.


----------



## kaydubbed

I ordered an AMD Copper + Nickel foundation block yesterday for my Ryzen 3950X. I got an Aquacool 3080 block on the way too.

No updates but after the mayhem of getting a 3080 I don't mind waiting. 

I'm building my first custom loop with Barrowch parts from Formulamod (dirt cheap fittings, baby), a D5 clone and reservoir, an Aquacool 360mm 45mm rad and a 360mm 30mm rad internally and a 420mm Aquacool Monsta that I am going to run externally out of my CoolerMaster H500M because yolo etc. 

I will have heat for the Kansas City winter


----------



## Mroberts95

It’s finally cooling down here in Colorado so I don’t mind the cold weather, ambient drops so my water does too.

Also emailed Optimus today since it’s been over a week since I’ve heard anything as well. Will update here if I hear back anytime soon.


----------



## Thebc2

Bring on the block boys!!!! She’s clocking great but really needs to be under water.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Mroberts95

Welcome to the club!
Hopefully only a few weeks away.

Also no response yet from Optimus.

Some people on Reddit are saying same thing no email support/response at all.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Mroberts95 said:


> It’s finally cooling down here in Colorado so I don’t mind the cold weather, ambient drops so my water does too.
> 
> Also emailed Optimus today since it’s been over a week since I’ve heard anything as well. Will update here if I hear back anytime soon.


Wish the smoke would go away here. Even when I can't smell any and pop open a window at night, wake up dying and have to close it again.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Mroberts95

Sir Beregond said:


> Wish the smoke would go away here. Even when I can't smell any and pop open a window at night, wake up dying and have to close it again.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I live down south in the springs and it’s been on and off bad. Up north of Denver it’s been pretty bad due to a very large fire. We get smoke now from WA,OR,CA if the winds are right.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Mroberts95 said:


> I live down south in the springs and it’s been on and off bad. Up north of Denver it’s been pretty bad due to a very large fire. We get smoke now from WA,OR,CA if the winds are right.


Yeah, here in Denver feels like it's been bad for months now.


----------



## Keith Myers

Finally here in NorCal, the smoke is clearing out and I can open windows at night. Been bad since middle of August.


----------



## Mroberts95

Got a response from them.
All I can say at the moment due to respecting their wishes etc.
You all will be pleased though!


----------



## sakete

Mroberts95 said:


> Got a response from them.
> All I can say at the moment due to respecting their wishes etc.
> You all will be pleased though!


Also got a response, and yes, those of you who can wait a little longer will be very pleased!


----------



## originxt

Gets me hyped up but I hope there is enough inventory for those that are looking for a block. I'm very interested if they pursued a different method for cooling the back memory modules or if they are going ahead with the thicker metal back plate with pads.


----------



## sakete

originxt said:


> Gets me hyped up but I hope there is enough inventory for those that are looking for a block. I'm very interested if they pursued a different method for cooling the back memory modules or if they are going ahead with the thicker metal back plate with pads.


I think either way you might need an anti-sag bracket


----------



## originxt

sakete said:


> I think either way you might need an anti-sag bracket


Oh my, barely getting a sag from my current card. Sounds good, excited to see what they offer. Hopefully before month end.


----------



## dwolvin

I'm not using it on my current build, but I grabbed a 'upHere Graphics Card GPU Brace' a while back-= cheap and pretty nice.




https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HSVSLR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Avacado

sakete said:


> I think either way you might need an anti-sag bracket


Just vertical mount it.


----------



## originxt

Avacado said:


> Just vertical mount it.


Couldn't even if I wanted to. 3 rads in the case.


----------



## Mroberts95

What case?
If a Lian Li dynamic or dynamic XL it will work.
Other cases I cant say.


----------



## originxt

Mroberts95 said:


> What case?
> If a Lian Li dynamic or dynamic XL it will work.
> Other cases I cant say.


Should have also included I have a network card and a sound card too. I'd love to see the channels from the vertical mount but currently not feasible since it would block all my pcie slots.


----------



## acoustic

Glad to hear we got some responses and Optimus is doing OK! Can't wait to see the unveiling of some great watercooling products. My 3080 FTW3 is ready!!


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> I think either way you might need an anti-sag bracket


I wish there were more horizontal motherboard cases.

Also this sounds like great news, i want one, but i still might wait for the rumored 20GB and see if I can step up first, but if the news is great i might not be able to help myself and buy it anyway.



acoustic said:


> Glad to hear we got some responses and Optimus is doing OK! Can't wait to see the unveiling of some great watercooling products. My 3080 FTW3 is ready!!


What kind of boost clocks are you getting? I have one too and it doesn't want to boost past 1950mhz.


----------



## acoustic

darkangelism said:


> What kind of boost clocks are you getting? I have one too and it doesn't want to boost past 1950mhz.


I have an average chip, but definitely boost higher than 1950. I just need to get temps down. Flashing the STRIX OC bios really opened the legs on the card. There's a lot of people claiming they're running 2070Mhz at 70c etc, but who knows if that's really stable.. during gaming and the temps get up there, clock speeds obviously drop.

On the stock BIOS I never really went under 2000 unless power limit was forcing it. Metro Exodus is an example. With the STRIX OC bios, even at 82c I'm dropping to 2000-2010 max as the power limit isn't a factor anymore.


----------



## Section31

darkangelism said:


> I wish there were more horizontal motherboard cases.
> 
> Also this sounds like great news, i want one, but i still might wait for the rumored 20GB and see if I can step up first, but if the news is great i might not be able to help myself and buy it anyway.
> 
> 
> What kind of boost clocks are you getting? I have one too and it doesn't want to boost past 1950mhz.


The good news is you don't have to wait long for gpu block since by then you will have GPU block ready for it (the 10GB is more or less the same). Thank you the people who lent blocks to Optimus. I hope someone who gets ahold of the strix ones, send them in to make an block. If I go Big Navi, i would gladly send in my GPU Block to get an waterblock made.


----------



## darkangelism

acoustic said:


> Glad to hear we got some responses and Optimus is doing OK! Can't wait to see the unveiling of some great watercooling products. My 3080 FTW3 is ready!!





acoustic said:


> I have an average chip, but definitely boost higher than 1950. I just need to get temps down. Flashing the STRIX OC bios really opened the legs on the card. There's a lot of people claiming they're running 2070Mhz at 70c etc, but who knows if that's really stable.. during gaming and the temps get up there, clock speeds obviously drop.
> 
> On the stock BIOS I never really went under 2000 unless power limit was forcing it. Metro Exodus is an example. With the STRIX OC bios, even at 82c I'm dropping to 2000-2010 max as the power limit isn't a factor anymore.


yeah i might need to flash that bios, probably will wait for waterblock first


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys! 

So where we're at: FTW3 and XC3 blocks are virtually done. We're now dialing in the manufacturing to make them end of next week. 

ASUS will be after that. We have the models for the ASUS cards and designs are mostly done, but don't have physical samples yet. We had to make our own models of the EVGA cards, but that work is done.

We had to completely redesign the block from even our first 3080/3090 design due to how the actual cards are made in real life. The GPUs with their extra tall caps and whatnot caused all kinds of clearance issues. But we're really, really happy with how the block came out -- both the performance and aesthetics. It's a crazy design, definitely worth showing off. The only downside of this design is the weight. It's a pound or so more than the big air cards. We could have gone the route of using acrylic to compensate for the heights, but the performance wasn't there for us. We also include the mandatory back heatsink, which isn't a shy piece of metal. Since our motto is "Performance First," we did what we thought was best. In the future, we may do a lightweight block. But, yeah, vertical is the way to go for most people. Or have supports. 

As for performance, our testing shows the FTW3 block is extremely, extremely good. We don't have anything to compare it to at this point (other than air and benchmarks), but we think the block will have #1 performance in all areas of the GPU -- die, vram, vrm, backside, etc etc. The potential of these cards is really something and our water block is basically the most extreme way (for now) of tapping this performance. It's what we'd want in our own systems 

I'll be posting pics soon. We don't want to reveal the final designs just yet. 

As for orders, we aren't going to do open preorders this time (since that went so well last time). Instead, we'll do batch runs with a solid ship date. So we'll provide a small number of units with limited options, then cut off orders until we've made all of them. And then open it up again based on how well we're able to ship blocks. And eventually open up all options. That way, we can ship as fast as possible and keep people happy 

Oh, and there will be some press of our prototype 3090 blocks shortly


----------



## Avacado

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> So where we're at: FTW3 and XC3 blocks are virtually done. We're now dialing in the manufacturing to make them end of next week.
> 
> ASUS will be after that. We have the models for the ASUS cards and designs are mostly done, but don't have physical samples yet. We had to make our own models of the EVGA cards, but that work is done.
> 
> We had to completely redesign the block from even our first 3080/3090 design due to how the actual cards are made in real life. The GPUs with their extra tall caps and whatnot caused all kinds of clearance issues. But we're really, really happy with how the block came out -- both the performance and aesthetics. It's a crazy design, definitely worth showing off. The only downside of this design is the weight. It's a pound or so more than the big air cards. We could have gone the route of using acrylic to compensate for the heights, but the performance wasn't there for us. We also include the mandatory back heatsink, which isn't a shy piece of metal. Since our motto is "Performance First," we did what we thought was best. In the future, we may do a lightweight block. But, yeah, vertical is the way to go for most people. Or have supports.
> 
> As for performance, our testing shows the FTW3 block is extremely, extremely good. We don't have anything to compare it to at this point (other than air and benchmarks), but we think the block will have #1 performance in all areas of the GPU -- die, vram, vrm, backside, etc etc. The potential of these cards is really something and our water block is basically the most extreme way (for now) of tapping this performance. It's what we'd want in our own systems
> 
> I'll be posting pics soon. We don't want to reveal the final designs just yet.
> 
> As for orders, we aren't going to do open preorders this time (since that went so well last time). Instead, we'll do batch runs with a solid ship date. So we'll provide a small number of units with limited options, then cut off orders until we've made all of them. And then open it up again based on how well we're able to ship blocks. And eventually open up all options. That way, we can ship as fast as possible and keep people happy
> 
> Oh, and there will be some press of our prototype 3090 blocks shortly


Fantastic. Anyway forum members can get a shot at ordering before publicized elsewhere?


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> So where we're at: FTW3 and XC3 blocks are virtually done. We're now dialing in the manufacturing to make them end of next week.
> 
> ASUS will be after that. We have the models for the ASUS cards and designs are mostly done, but don't have physical samples yet. We had to make our own models of the EVGA cards, but that work is done.
> 
> We had to completely redesign the block from even our first 3080/3090 design due to how the actual cards are made in real life. The GPUs with their extra tall caps and whatnot caused all kinds of clearance issues. But we're really, really happy with how the block came out -- both the performance and aesthetics. It's a crazy design, definitely worth showing off. The only downside of this design is the weight. It's a pound or so more than the big air cards. We could have gone the route of using acrylic to compensate for the heights, but the performance wasn't there for us. We also include the mandatory back heatsink, which isn't a shy piece of metal. Since our motto is "Performance First," we did what we thought was best. In the future, we may do a lightweight block. But, yeah, vertical is the way to go for most people. Or have supports.
> 
> As for performance, our testing shows the FTW3 block is extremely, extremely good. We don't have anything to compare it to at this point (other than air and benchmarks), but we think the block will have #1 performance in all areas of the GPU -- die, vram, vrm, backside, etc etc. The potential of these cards is really something and our water block is basically the most extreme way (for now) of tapping this performance. It's what we'd want in our own systems
> 
> I'll be posting pics soon. We don't want to reveal the final designs just yet.
> 
> As for orders, we aren't going to do open preorders this time (since that went so well last time). Instead, we'll do batch runs with a solid ship date. So we'll provide a small number of units with limited options, then cut off orders until we've made all of them. And then open it up again based on how well we're able to ship blocks. And eventually open up all options. That way, we can ship as fast as possible and keep people happy
> 
> Oh, and there will be some press of our prototype 3090 blocks shortly


That's nice. Put me down for an strix block lol.


----------



## acoustic

Extremely interested in your 3080 FTW3 block! Any idea of when we would be able to order? My card (double meaning there  )s ready


----------



## Shawnb99

Avacado said:


> Just vertical mount it.


Vertical mount wouldn't stop sag in my case since that means it ends upside down


----------



## originxt

Shawnb99 said:


> Vertical mount wouldn't stop sag in my case since that means it ends upside down


Move to Australia, it'll be rightside up now. Problem solved. 



Optimus WC said:


> [The only downside of this design is the weight. It's a pound or so more than the big air cards.


Jesus christ lol. That's a lot of copper. Very excited to put this in my loop. Good thing I ordered a gpu brace as others suggested.


----------



## Shawnb99

originxt said:


> Move to Australia, it'll be rightside up now. Problem solved.


Never Australia! Way too many bugs and critters that can kill you. New Zealand is much better. Still I couldn't get used to the toilet water going in the wrong direction, though I am very good at knifey spoony.


----------



## KedarWolf

Shawnb99 said:


> Vertical mount wouldn't stop sag in my case since that means it ends upside down


I love my Thermaltake Core X9, tons of rad support, motherboard sits horizontally face up, cards are vertical.


----------



## Shawnb99

My case is reverse ATX hence everything upside down. Well see how much of an issue I have mounting my 2080ti vertical, it sagged on when mounted normally.


----------



## dwolvin

Are you kidding about vert / upside down? I can't wrap my head around how a case could accept a vert mount, but only incorrectly.

Ah- your answer popped up after I asked. But even in a reverse case the mount should end up 'normal'...


----------



## Shawnb99

Haven't found to many who've done it but based on this picture it would be upside down so could still sag


__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/931114723961196545
We'll see when I do my tear down.


----------



## dwolvin

Fair enough! I still think it will be pretty sag-resistant (if not -proof), tab and screw mounts are reversed but should still be good. Or you could get the EK mount..?


----------



## Shawnb99

I grabbed the Cablemod one so we'll how well it work. Yeah it shouldn't really sag compared to normally mounting it so not that concerned.


----------



## Thebc2

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> So where we're at: FTW3 and XC3 blocks are virtually done. We're now dialing in the manufacturing to make them end of next week.
> 
> ASUS will be after that. We have the models for the ASUS cards and designs are mostly done, but don't have physical samples yet. We had to make our own models of the EVGA cards, but that work is done.
> 
> We had to completely redesign the block from even our first 3080/3090 design due to how the actual cards are made in real life. The GPUs with their extra tall caps and whatnot caused all kinds of clearance issues. But we're really, really happy with how the block came out -- both the performance and aesthetics. It's a crazy design, definitely worth showing off. The only downside of this design is the weight. It's a pound or so more than the big air cards. We could have gone the route of using acrylic to compensate for the heights, but the performance wasn't there for us. We also include the mandatory back heatsink, which isn't a shy piece of metal. Since our motto is "Performance First," we did what we thought was best. In the future, we may do a lightweight block. But, yeah, vertical is the way to go for most people. Or have supports.
> 
> As for performance, our testing shows the FTW3 block is extremely, extremely good. We don't have anything to compare it to at this point (other than air and benchmarks), but we think the block will have #1 performance in all areas of the GPU -- die, vram, vrm, backside, etc etc. The potential of these cards is really something and our water block is basically the most extreme way (for now) of tapping this performance. It's what we'd want in our own systems
> 
> I'll be posting pics soon. We don't want to reveal the final designs just yet.
> 
> As for orders, we aren't going to do open preorders this time (since that went so well last time). Instead, we'll do batch runs with a solid ship date. So we'll provide a small number of units with limited options, then cut off orders until we've made all of them. And then open it up again based on how well we're able to ship blocks. And eventually open up all options. That way, we can ship as fast as possible and keep people happy
> 
> Oh, and there will be some press of our prototype 3090 blocks shortly


Awesome news!!! I can’t wait to strap this on! Any idea when first block of orders will open up?

Will there be any finish differences? Don’t really care but curious.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## agentdark45

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> So where we're at: FTW3 and XC3 blocks are virtually done. We're now dialing in the manufacturing to make them end of next week.
> 
> ASUS will be after that. We have the models for the ASUS cards and designs are mostly done, but don't have physical samples yet. We had to make our own models of the EVGA cards, but that work is done.
> 
> We had to completely redesign the block from even our first 3080/3090 design due to how the actual cards are made in real life. The GPUs with their extra tall caps and whatnot caused all kinds of clearance issues. But we're really, really happy with how the block came out -- both the performance and aesthetics. It's a crazy design, definitely worth showing off. The only downside of this design is the weight. It's a pound or so more than the big air cards. We could have gone the route of using acrylic to compensate for the heights, but the performance wasn't there for us. We also include the mandatory back heatsink, which isn't a shy piece of metal. Since our motto is "Performance First," we did what we thought was best. In the future, we may do a lightweight block. But, yeah, vertical is the way to go for most people. Or have supports.
> 
> As for performance, our testing shows the FTW3 block is extremely, extremely good. We don't have anything to compare it to at this point (other than air and benchmarks), but we think the block will have #1 performance in all areas of the GPU -- die, vram, vrm, backside, etc etc. The potential of these cards is really something and our water block is basically the most extreme way (for now) of tapping this performance. It's what we'd want in our own systems
> 
> I'll be posting pics soon. We don't want to reveal the final designs just yet.
> 
> As for orders, we aren't going to do open preorders this time (since that went so well last time). Instead, we'll do batch runs with a solid ship date. So we'll provide a small number of units with limited options, then cut off orders until we've made all of them. And then open it up again based on how well we're able to ship blocks. And eventually open up all options. That way, we can ship as fast as possible and keep people happy
> 
> Oh, and there will be some press of our prototype 3090 blocks shortly


Oh lawd, I'm in. UK stock is absysmal for the 3090 ftw3 though, I'm on a pre-order at queue number 4 but no one actually knows when these cards are arriving on our shores.

@Optimus WC are you guys able to send out notifications to existing customers for the new blocks? I'd like to get an order in asap.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

me waiting for b&h hurry up for my tuf order :/


----------



## darkangelism

batches is the way to go, but that also means i am buying a block asap and not after i potentially step up, though maybe 10GB is enough until the 4000 series in a couple of years 

would be nice to post the launch in here first for your dedicated customers.


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> batches is the way to go, but that also means i am buying a block asap and not after i potentially step up, though maybe 10GB is enough until the 4000 series in a couple of years
> 
> would be nice to post the launch in here first for your dedicated customers.


If you're not on 4K, 10GB is definitely enough. And even in 4K, 10GB should be enough until 4000 series, as 10GB will run all of today's titles in 4K just fine, and probably the ones in the near future as well.

I just bought a second 1440p monitor (LG 27GL850) so I'll be set for the next few years at least. If my other monitor dies (which I've had for 5 years now, 1440p gsync from Acer), I might replace that with a 32" 4K.


----------



## Thebc2

Shawnb99 said:


> I grabbed the Cablemod one so we'll how well it work. Yeah it shouldn't really sag compared to normally mounting it so not that concerned.


Please share your experience. In the same boat with a reverse ATX layout. How does this mount work for our caselabs cases with no vertical gpu support?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Shawnb99

Will do. I'm very interested in seeing how it'll hold up. Am switching from the hydrocopper block to the EK one with the backplate and I'll see how both hold up. 

Really wish reverse ATX was more of a thing, really not much of anything is designed to work with it.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> If you're not on 4K, 10GB is definitely enough. And even in 4K, 10GB should be enough until 4000 series, as 10GB will run all of today's titles in 4K just fine, and probably the ones in the near future as well.
> 
> I just bought a second 1440p monitor (LG 27GL850) so I'll be set for the next few years at least. If my other monitor dies (which I've had for 5 years now, 1440p gsync from Acer), I might replace that with a 32" 4K.


yeah i am getting an eve spectrum 4k 144 once it releases at the end of Dec and an HP reverb G2 headset which is 2160X2160 per eye, and those should be the hardest to drive monitors for awhile, 8k is a waste at monitor screen sizes.


----------



## darkangelism

EVGA released an XOC BIOS for the FTW3 ultra EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 FTW3 (3897) XOC BIOS BETA - EVGA Forums

really need the waterblock now


----------



## chuggz

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> So where we're at: FTW3 and XC3 blocks are virtually done. We're now dialing in the manufacturing to make them end of next week.
> 
> ASUS will be after that. We have the models for the ASUS cards and designs are mostly done, but don't have physical samples yet. We had to make our own models of the EVGA cards, but that work is done.


Hm, are FE card blocks more 'eventually' or 'unlikely'? For those of us who haven't found/bought a card yet


----------



## sakete

chuggz said:


> Hm, are FE card blocks more 'eventually' or 'unlikely'? For those of us who haven't found/bought a card yet


I saw a reddit post by Optimus that they're not doing FE blocks.


----------



## Optimus WC

Right now, FE blocks seem to be the most rare. They're a cool PCB design, but only Best Buy will have them in the future. It's possible they simply stop making them in favor of all the aftermarket cards. And, so far, zero requests for an FE block from people who actually have an FE. It's all EVGA and ASUS.


----------



## darkangelism

i can still hit the new 450w power limit, they need to give us 500w


----------



## Section31

darkangelism said:


> i can still hit the new 450w power limit, they need to give us 500w


Intel X299 but for GPU's lol


----------



## darkangelism

Section31 said:


> Intel X299 but for GPU's lol


yeah and i don't think mine is a good overclocker either.


----------



## chuggz

Optimus WC said:


> Right now, FE blocks seem to be the most rare. They're a cool PCB design, but only Best Buy will have them in the future. It's possible they simply stop making them in favor of all the aftermarket cards. And, so far, zero requests for an FE block from people who actually have an FE. It's all EVGA and ASUS.


The irony is that I'm holding off buying a card until I know what'll be supported  But I guess I can't go wrong with an FTW or XC3. Was looking forward to a slick cooler design for FE though.


----------



## Section31

chuggz said:


> The irony is that I'm holding off buying a card until I know what'll be supported  But I guess I can't go wrong with an FTW or XC3. Was looking forward to a slick cooler design for FE though.


It's looking like the Asus/EVGA is safest route for the 3080/3090. So the Tuf, Strix, XC3, FTW3 basically.


----------



## originxt

Odd they would release an xoc bios for the 3080 first but not the 3090. Maybe soon.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> It's looking like the Asus/EVGA is safest route for the 3080/3090. So the Tuf, Strix, XC3, FTW3 basically.


Really, I'd say EVGA. Because they don't void your warranty when installing a different cooler.


----------



## Mroberts95

Exactly. As long as you put original back on youre golden!


----------



## kaydubbed

Shawnb99 said:


> I grabbed the Cablemod one so we'll how well it work. Yeah it shouldn't really sag compared to normally mounting it so not that concerned.


I couldn't get the riser cable with the CableMod vertical mount working with my 3080 Ventus. My ROG STRIX 570-E board wouldn't recognize the card with it. I haven't gotten to contacting CM but I suspect it has some power transfer issue.


----------



## Shawnb99

kaydubbed said:


> I couldn't get the riser cable with the CableMod vertical mount working with my 3080 Ventus. My ROG STRIX 570-E board wouldn't recognize the card with it. I haven't gotten to contacting CM but I suspect it has some power transfer issue.


Thanks for the heads up. I was already considering ordering a better riser cable anyways. This one should work perfectly









30 cm - PCIE 4.0/3.0 16x Extreme Shielded High Speed Riser Cable | 90 Degree Socket


Over 64GB/s via rare shielded double-layer Twin-axial wires including dedicated power and grounding lines for lossless signals at range.




linkup.one


----------



## shiokarai

kaydubbed said:


> I couldn't get the riser cable with the CableMod vertical mount working with my 3080 Ventus. My ROG STRIX 570-E board wouldn't recognize the card with it. I haven't gotten to contacting CM but I suspect it has some power transfer issue.


Need to set PCIE slot in 3.0 mode to make it work.


----------



## shiokarai

Shawnb99 said:


> I grabbed the Cablemod one so we'll how well it work. Yeah it shouldn't really sag compared to normally mounting it so not that concerned.


CableMod one is crap, I own one in my STH10 and it sags even with the relatively light alphacool rtx 3080 block.. not worth it! Also, connecting DP cable with it installed is really really frustrating, at least with STH10


----------



## dwolvin

The cheap one I posted 2 days ago it nice and sturdy, I'd offer it for shipping but it's missing one of the levels - didn't use it in the Fractal DefineXL and stored it so safely that it's missing.


----------



## Mroberts95

Can’t wait to see those full blocks in their glory. Show em off Optimus


----------



## taowulf

Shawnb99 said:


> Haven't found to many who've done it but based on this picture it would be upside down so could still sag
> 
> 
> 
> We'll see when I do my tear down.












I really didn't have a sag issue in the DB 700 case when inverted, but then again, that Byski block wasn't nearly as much copper as Optimus was talking about.


----------



## Thebc2

Already sagging here LOL.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Mroberts95

Hey I have the EKWB Vertical Mount on the way, It has attachments to two Motherboard standoffs etc so it should provide better support than the Phanteks one I use now. I can let you know how it works out once I receive my Optimus Block/Card as I do not plan on changing everything out before then!


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Thanks for the heads up. I was already considering ordering a better riser cable anyways. This one should work perfectly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 30 cm - PCIE 4.0/3.0 16x Extreme Shielded High Speed Riser Cable | 90 Degree Socket
> 
> 
> Over 64GB/s via rare shielded double-layer Twin-axial wires including dedicated power and grounding lines for lossless signals at range.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> linkup.one


Why not try to find the caselabs one. It had the best solution in my opinion. The riser cable they obviously bought from someone else.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Why not try to find the caselabs one. It had the best solution in my opinion. The riser cable they obviously bought from someone else.


I'd have a better time finding a needle in a haystack, but I'll see if I can find anything..... Oooo just found someone who made a custom version, might work even better









SMA8-A Verticle GPU Mount?


Does this require a caselabs (impossible to find most likely) verticle gpu mount or will some other kit work? Anyone using this feature without a caselabs accessory?




www.overclock.net







Mroberts95 said:


> Hey I have the EKWB Vertical Mount on the way, It has attachments to two Motherboard standoffs etc so it should provide better support than the Phanteks one I use now. I can let you know how it works out once I receive my Optimus Block/Card as I do not plan on changing everything out before then!


Saw the EK one, very interesting. Let me know how it works for you, if I have issues with the Cablemod one I'll look at that one. I might not even end up going vertical, just wanted to try it and see how it looked. Not sure how complicated my routing will be with the dual distro's now and everything else.


----------



## Mroberts95

Sounds good! I will have it installed hopefully in the next 1-2 weeks but we shall see. I dont like how GPUS look horizontal anymore and I have a feeling with whatever design they use will look better vertical as well.


----------



## Shawnb99

I'm liking the design of the Caselabs one. Doesn't even take up the PCIE slots, but rather the removable strip thingy next to the rear 120mm fan. Ruins my idea of using 4x 40mm fans there but that looks to be way better then any of the normal vertical mounts.


----------



## Mroberts95

Looks like my EKWB mount is out for delivery today. So might just swap it out for use with my 2080ti for now!


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I'm liking the design of the Caselabs one. Doesn't even take up the PCIE slots, but rather the removable strip thingy next to the rear 120mm fan. Ruins my idea of using 4x 40mm fans there but that looks to be way better then any of the normal vertical mounts.


Make one. I think thats best strategy. If you find someone tell me. I got to do work on my caselabs s8 myself


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Make one. I think thats best strategy. If you find someone tell me. I got to do work on my caselabs s8 myself


Send @-relaxer- a PM seems he still has 3 of some he custom made or least as of 5 days ago. I just sent him one myself. This really looks like the best option for anyone with a Caselabs, would use 4 screws and wouldn't even use any PCIE slots.
Not sure if all the cases came with that removable thingy next to the rear 120mm but if it does this should work on it


----------



## Zurv

Optimus WC said:


> Right now, FE blocks seem to be the most rare. They're a cool PCB design, but only Best Buy will have them in the future. It's possible they simply stop making them in favor of all the aftermarket cards. And, so far, zero requests for an FE block from people who actually have an FE. It's all EVGA and ASUS.


I have a FE 3090 and would like a block.
(Also have a EVGA 3090 FTW.. which also needs a block.)


----------



## Mroberts95

According to their reddit the chances of a FE block are slim to none, 3090 FTW3 I hope is only a couple of weeks away


----------



## darkangelism

EK Releases Another Vector Water Block, This Time for EVGA XC3 RTX 3080/3090 GPUs - ekwb.com the competition block is not impressive.


----------



## Mroberts95

Too much acrylic for me.


----------



## Shawnb99

Same. Big hunk of copper please!


----------



## Mroberts95

Dhl just needs to show up so I can get all my stuff changed out and prepped.


----------



## Shawnb99

I still got a month and a half before I can start my rebuild. Waiting sucks


----------



## Sir Beregond

Mroberts95 said:


> Too much acrylic for me.


And crappy plating!


----------



## Diffident

I prefer a block without the window. I can't see it anyway, it's pointing down. That, and if I do look at it I won't be irritated by that one little bubble, stuck in a corner that I can't seem to get out.


----------



## sakete

Diffident said:


> I prefer a block without the window. I can't see it anyway, it's pointing down. That, and if I do look at it I won't be irritated by that one little bubble, stuck in a corner that I can't seem to get out.


Put duct tape on it


----------



## originxt

Diffident said:


> I prefer a block without the window. I can't see it anyway, it's pointing down. That, and if I do look at it I won't be irritated by that one little bubble, stuck in a corner that I can't seem to get out.







Concrete cool it. No air bubbles guaranteed.


----------



## irakandjii

I just learned of this forum and the Optimus block. Looks very promising.


----------



## Mroberts95

Not the best picture but got the EKWB vertical mount today along with the mystic fog coolant.

The evga 2080ti ftw3 hydro copper is a pretty heavy card and I imagine even if Optimus is heavier with their Block etc than it will support just fine. The motherboard standoffs supports make a huge difference in gpu sag etc


----------



## gengar

Any updates on order fulfillment?


----------



## darkangelism

Nice surprise seeing the optimus blocks on gamers nexus video tonight. 



 so much copper


----------



## dwolvin

Sooo pretty!


----------



## Mroberts95

And that is just the prototype. All the acrylic I imagine won’t exist on the right side of the block as Optimus said the entire card will be copper in their post


----------



## Thebc2

Wow!! Works of art! When do we get to order?!

Those terminals, lol.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, yup, Gamers Nexus has the prototypes! Those FTW3 blocks are nearly final. The copper and acrylic shape is what it will look like. We can't go full copper all the way across the entire PCB without it weighing a truly insane amount and costing an equally insane amount. It's already a very heavy block. The backplate aesthetics will be updated with fins and more. 

Also, we'll be launching with full nickel blocks and satin anodized silver backplates. To get blocks out fast, it's actually easier for us right now to just to nickel blocks, and do copper and other colors later. 

We'll be opening up limited first batch this coming week, production starts end of this coming week, and then first batch blocks ship roughly 2-3 weeks after.


----------



## originxt

That block looks pretty nice. Definitely doing straight copper this time. I really hope I can snag one on the first copper batch.


----------



## asdf893

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, yup, Gamers Nexus has the prototypes! Those FTW3 blocks are nearly final. The copper and acrylic shape is what it will look like. We can't go full copper all the way across the entire PCB without it weighing a truly insane amount and costing an equally insane amount. It's already a very heavy block. The backplate aesthetics will be updated with fins and more.
> 
> Also, we'll be launching with full nickel blocks and satin anodized silver backplates. To get blocks out fast, it's actually easier for us right now to just to nickel blocks, and do copper and other colors later.
> 
> We'll be opening up limited first batch this coming week, production starts end of this coming week, and then first batch blocks ship roughly 2-3 weeks after.


How do we get in line for the first batch this week?


----------



## tarkus33

asdf893 said:


> How do we get in line for the first batch this week?


Aussie here keen on getting the first batch too! Will probably get a foundation block at the same time, for my first water build


----------



## sakete

Thiccccc!


----------



## darkangelism

asdf893 said:


> How do we get in line for the first batch this week?


yeah, don't want a repeat of every other launch that has happened in the last 2 months


----------



## Mroberts95

Can’t wait to get my card back and a nice fancy block. Excited to see the nickel option.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, yup, Gamers Nexus has the prototypes! Those FTW3 blocks are nearly final. The copper and acrylic shape is what it will look like. We can't go full copper all the way across the entire PCB without it weighing a truly insane amount and costing an equally insane amount. It's already a very heavy block. The backplate aesthetics will be updated with fins and more.
> 
> Also, we'll be launching with full nickel blocks and satin anodized silver backplates. To get blocks out fast, it's actually easier for us right now to just to nickel blocks, and do copper and other colors later.
> 
> We'll be opening up limited first batch this coming week, production starts end of this coming week, and then first batch blocks ship roughly 2-3 weeks after.


Nice looking block. Definitely interested in the strix one


----------



## Zurv

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, yup, Gamers Nexus has the prototypes! Those FTW3 blocks are nearly final. The copper and acrylic shape is what it will look like. We can't go full copper all the way across the entire PCB without it weighing a truly insane amount and costing an equally insane amount. It's already a very heavy block. The backplate aesthetics will be updated with fins and more.
> 
> Also, we'll be launching with full nickel blocks and satin anodized silver backplates. To get blocks out fast, it's actually easier for us right now to just to nickel blocks, and do copper and other colors later.
> 
> We'll be opening up limited first batch this coming week, production starts end of this coming week, and then first batch blocks ship roughly 2-3 weeks after.


Could you tell us the pad thickness for the pads you'll use on front of the card? (For the evga 3090 FTW)
as someone that ordered the 2080ti block at the end of 2019.. I still have faith in optimus for the 3090 block - but fujipoly ultra extreme or nothing  I bought a bunch of 0.5/1.0/1.5 pads for the 2080ti.. (yeah.. $104 in pads for a block the never came out... _sigh_ )


----------



## originxt

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, yup, Gamers Nexus has the prototypes! Those FTW3 blocks are nearly final. The copper and acrylic shape is what it will look like. We can't go full copper all the way across the entire PCB without it weighing a truly insane amount and costing an equally insane amount. It's already a very heavy block. The backplate aesthetics will be updated with fins and more.
> 
> Also, we'll be launching with full nickel blocks and satin anodized silver backplates. To get blocks out fast, it's actually easier for us right now to just to nickel blocks, and do copper and other colors later.
> 
> We'll be opening up limited first batch this coming week, production starts end of this coming week, and then first batch blocks ship roughly 2-3 weeks after.


Any chance we can get block dimensions? Width being the more important.


----------



## Thebc2

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, yup, Gamers Nexus has the prototypes! Those FTW3 blocks are nearly final. The copper and acrylic shape is what it will look like. We can't go full copper all the way across the entire PCB without it weighing a truly insane amount and costing an equally insane amount. It's already a very heavy block. The backplate aesthetics will be updated with fins and more.
> 
> Also, we'll be launching with full nickel blocks and satin anodized silver backplates. To get blocks out fast, it's actually easier for us right now to just to nickel blocks, and do copper and other colors later.
> 
> We'll be opening up limited first batch this coming week, production starts end of this coming week, and then first batch blocks ship roughly 2-3 weeks after.


Disappointing to hear no copper blocks in the first round. Some of us avoid nickel like the plague. I’ll be placing an order once copper ftw3 blocks are available.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Optimus WC

Zurv said:


> Could you tell us the pad thickness for the pads you'll use on front of the card? (For the evga 3090 FTW)
> as someone that ordered the 2080ti block at the end of 2019.. I still have faith in optimus for the 3090 block - but fujipoly ultra extreme or nothing  I bought a bunch of 0.5/1.0/1.5 pads for the 2080ti.. (yeah.. $104 in pads for a block the never came out... _sigh_ )


Hey hey, so we're using 0.5mm on the front, 3mm on the back. We're using Fujis, but not the Fuji Sarcon XR (which is the top) because each block would be more expensive than the GPU itself


----------



## agentdark45

originxt said:


> Any chance we can get block dimensions? Width being the more important.


This, and final assembled dimensions + weight if possible?

I'm a bit sketched about about GPU sag/this chungus block shearing off my motherboard!


----------



## originxt

Anyone try those pumps from Optimus?

I think I might pick up one of these Lian Li PC-O11 Front Dual D5 Distribution Plate | Singularity Computers

But need to either buy an extra d5 to work with my current ek d5 (which I believe is also a xylem pump) or buy 2 so they are the same.

I've just never seen d5s powered by sata power connectors, only molex. Also, don't really like I have to work directly with the manufacturer for warranty service in the case the pump is doa or dies during its life period.


----------



## gengar

originxt said:


> I think I might pick up one of these Lian Li PC-O11 Front Dual D5 Distribution Plate | Singularity Computers


Can consider Radikult's Dynamic Duo as well: Dynamic Duo | Radikult Custom - I'd be worried about having to drill mounting holes on the one you linked.

As far as pumps, personally I just go with the non-PWM vario D5 since I want it at the lowest setting at all times anyway.


----------



## originxt

gengar said:


> Can consider Radikult's Dynamic Duo as well: Dynamic Duo | Radikult Custom - I'd be worried about having to drill mounting holes on the one you linked.
> 
> As far as pumps, personally I just go with the non-PWM vario D5 since I want it at the lowest setting at all times anyway.


Is this a forum member or do you have experience with the reservoir? I'm already liking it more though as an option since I don't need to drill holes, it looks like I can just mount it normally like the glass front. Though I did want to use longer screws with the other distroplate so I can leave a gap in front since all my fans are intake.

I'm not planning on a dual loop, just planning on running it in serial because my loop is fairly restrictive and I need to run my pump at 80% currently to avoid temperature increase.


----------



## Zurv

Optimus WC said:


> Hey hey, so we're using 0.5mm on the front, 3mm on the back. We're using Fujis, but not the Fuji Sarcon XR (which is the top) because each block would be more expensive than the GPU itself


All good. I have of bunch of pads for the front 
.5 is perfect


----------



## gengar

originxt said:


> Is this a forum member or do you have experience with the reservoir? I'm already liking it more though as an option since I don't need to drill holes, it looks like I can just mount it normally like the glass front. Though I did want to use longer screws with the other distroplate so I can leave a gap in front since all my fans are intake.
> 
> I'm not planning on a dual loop, just planning on running it in serial because my loop is fairly restrictive and I need to run my pump at 80% currently to avoid temperature increase.


I'm running his O11 360 res (although the original, not the V2) side-mounted in my O11, but I'm thinking about re-doing my loop with the Dynamic Duo just because it's such a cool-looking res (although I'd go dual loop).


----------



## Mroberts95

Wish we could fast forward time a week or two


----------



## taowulf

originxt said:


> Is this a forum member or do you have experience with the reservoir? I'm already liking it more though as an option since I don't need to drill holes, it looks like I can just mount it normally like the glass front. Though I did want to use longer screws with the other distroplate so I can leave a gap in front since all my fans are intake.
> 
> I'm not planning on a dual loop, just planning on running it in serial because my loop is fairly restrictive and I need to run my pump at 80% currently to avoid temperature increase.


Radikult did post here once upon a time, but I haven't specifically run across any posts from him in a while, but I am boring these days and don't read a lot of threads. His stuff is good quality, I do have one of his reservoirs, just not one of his 011 res. He doesn't polish the insides like he used to as it apparently is too time consuming but he also does some nice custom work and does have a lot of "how he makes the sausage" vids on Youtube. He was quiet there for quite a while, but recently started posting vids again now that he actually has a separate place to actually work instead of his residence.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

The gpu block .... Optimus definition of build like a freaking tank comes to mind...
@[email protected] even the backplate like wt... But the killer is the thermal pad lol..


Like i said before some utubers love lurking too much in here on overclock.net to use users info


----------



## Twintale

Do they have some problems or anything? I ordered waterblock on 8-th of October and 11 days later until now it's still "Unfulfilled" and no answer from support as well...


----------



## darkangelism

Twintale said:


> Do they have some problems or anything? I ordered waterblock on 8-th of October and 11 days later until now it's still "Unfulfilled" and no answer from support as well...


It used to take about 8 weeks, not sure of the current timeline


----------



## Shawnb99

Seeing that gorgeous block makes me want a card now.


----------



## Recipe7

How do I get in line for the first batch? Optimuspc.com has no mention of rtx 3000 guys.


----------



## gengar

Twintale said:


> Do they have some problems or anything? I ordered waterblock on 8-th of October and 11 days later until now it's still "Unfulfilled" and no answer from support as well...


I ordered right before you, no responses to my e-mails either. I didn't want to wait indefinitely so e-mailed to cancel my order and they canceled it right away. No additional info or followup, just confirm canceled - sorta gives me the impression they're happy to have people cancel. I guess that's better than not responding at all and keeping my money , but it also means someone is checking all the e-mails and they're just not responding and apparently also not shipping out orders.

Really poor form from Optimus here. Marketing is super snazzy, products look great, and I'll admit I totally bought the 'made in USA rah rah' especially since I used to live in Chicago, but apparently they don't care much about the customers. The new GPU block looks great too but does anyone really think they're going to fulfil those when they are taking 2+ weeks to fulfil supposedly in-stock items?


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, we're roughly 2-3 weeks out for new product orders. We're doing some things to reeeeally speed up production, so hopefully we'll be over this hump shortly. 

The challenge is, in the past, it was very hard to give exact ETAs. Because we make enough to be in stock, then they sell out again, so sometimes it can be in stock, other times we immediately get swamped, and different parts are in different stages of manufacturing. Our goal is to simply get so far ahead on production we have zero backorders. 

I need to go through the emails and respond, it's been quite a week of madness, esp with the new blocks  and a new addition to the family. 100% my fault, sorry about the silence 😬 

FTW3 BLOCKS: Batch 1 blocks will go up for sale today. We're not doing the unlimited preorders like last time. We'll be doing batches, and as we get more comfortable with production times, keep increasing batches until it's an in-stock item. Batch one will be the most popular requests: full nickel mid, nickel cold plate, acrylic.


----------



## originxt

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're roughly 2-3 weeks out for new product orders. We're doing some things to reeeeally speed up production, so hopefully we'll be over this hump shortly.
> 
> The challenge is, in the past, it was very hard to give exact ETAs. Because we make enough to be in stock, then they sell out again, so sometimes it can be in stock, other times we immediately get swamped, and different parts are in different stages of manufacturing. Our goal is to simply get so far ahead on production we have zero backorders.
> 
> I need to go through the emails and respond, it's been quite a week of madness, esp with the new blocks  and a new addition to the family. 100% my fault, sorry about the silence 😬
> 
> FTW3 BLOCKS: Batch 1 blocks will go up for sale today. We're not doing the unlimited preorders like last time. We'll be doing batches, and as we get more comfortable with production times, keep increasing batches until it's an in-stock item. Batch one will be the most popular requests: full nickel mid, nickel cold plate, acrylic.


Can we get dimensions for the block please? Also, I am considering the d5 pump listed on your site but am unsure how good xylem is with warranty service should the pump be doa or die within a short period. Can you link their warranty stance as I can't find a d5 pump on their website?


----------



## darkangelism

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're roughly 2-3 weeks out for new product orders. We're doing some things to reeeeally speed up production, so hopefully we'll be over this hump shortly.
> 
> The challenge is, in the past, it was very hard to give exact ETAs. Because we make enough to be in stock, then they sell out again, so sometimes it can be in stock, other times we immediately get swamped, and different parts are in different stages of manufacturing. Our goal is to simply get so far ahead on production we have zero backorders.
> 
> I need to go through the emails and respond, it's been quite a week of madness, esp with the new blocks  and a new addition to the family. 100% my fault, sorry about the silence 😬
> 
> FTW3 BLOCKS: Batch 1 blocks will go up for sale today. We're not doing the unlimited preorders like last time. We'll be doing batches, and as we get more comfortable with production times, keep increasing batches until it's an in-stock item. Batch one will be the most popular requests: full nickel mid, nickel cold plate, acrylic.


Can you give us the link here first?


----------



## D-EJ915

Mroberts95 said:


> Can’t wait to get my card back and a nice fancy block. Excited to see the nickel option.


Ouch, a guy that's not even a paying customer getting blocks for his cards which were designed using yours before you even get your card back lol.


----------



## Mroberts95

I will have them back both at the same time. There is alot under the hood that you do not know about


----------



## gengar

originxt said:


> Can we get dimensions for the block please? Also, I am considering the d5 pump listed on your site but am unsure how good xylem is with warranty service should the pump be doa or die within a short period. Can you link their warranty stance as I can't find a d5 pump on their website?


D5 pumps are manufactured by Xylem under their brand Laing (or at least they were; the website now shows Goulds Water Technology branding, despite the domain name): DC Series - Xylem Applied Water Systems - United States

Running a google search I found a pdf file from a retailer apparently documenting Laing's RMA policy which suggests direct factory support should be available to end customers, but perhaps hilariously, the street address for Laing listed in the document doesn't check out so I didn't want to repost it here. On the Goulds website, there is a list of regional sales representatives (at Sales & Service - Xylem Applied Water Systems - United States ); maybe you could reach out to one of them to inquire as to what the RMA process is like. I wouldn't expect Optimus to help on this (especially not in a timely manner).


----------



## Shawnb99

Or just buy your own D5 pump and not have to worry who to send it to.


----------



## gengar

Shawnb99 said:


> Or just buy your own D5 pump and not have to worry who to send it to.


Ya, I'd think this would be a much preferable option.


----------



## originxt

Shawnb99 said:


> Or just buy your own D5 pump and not have to worry who to send it to.


I was just curious about it since optimus sells it and it is significantly cheaper than the other d5 options along with having a different power connector. Probably best to avoid the potential headache.



gengar said:


> Ya, I'd think this would be a much preferable option.


Probably yeah.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah I was curious about it as well but having to deal with Xylem rather then Optimus would be to much of a pain. Just grab any D5 they all should fit except for the Next


----------



## acoustic

I'm at work. Definitely going to end up missing the chance to order ...


----------



## Mroberts95

I think if the price is high we might not see them sell out asap.


----------



## darkangelism

Mroberts95 said:


> I think if the price is high we might not see them sell out asap.


yeah the number of people with cards that also are watercooling is probably pretty low to start with.


----------



## Mroberts95

Exactly. I dont think these will sell out in 30 seconds


----------



## sakete

Mroberts95 said:


> Exactly. I dont think these will sell out in 30 seconds


Depends on how large the first batch is.


----------



## acoustic

I hope not!


----------



## Mroberts95

True that. I am more curious on pricing.


----------



## pooter

Was there ever an answer to the dimensions on the FTW block?


----------



## Mroberts95

I dont think so. What dimensions did you want/need to know? Like how thick the card is etc?

EVGA FTW3 dimensions are 

Height: 5.38 in - 136.75mm
Length: 11.81 in - 300mm
Width: 2.75 Slots


----------



## sakete

pooter said:


> Was there ever an answer to the dimensions on the FTW block?


The dimension is: THICCC!


----------



## pooter

Yeah I know the dimensions on the stock card but curious about the block dimensions since it looks so chonky on that video. Specifically the height since some cases won't be able to close if it's a lot more than stock without going vertical


----------



## originxt

pooter said:


> Was there ever an answer to the dimensions on the FTW block?


No, I'm unsure why it's difficult to answer the question either. They have prototypes and presumably models in 3d with exact measurements. 

Pricing wise based on the 2080ti preorders, somewhere in the mid $200s I'm guessing.


----------



## straha20

A block for the FTW3 that matches the AMD Foundation block would be sweet!


----------



## Mroberts95

Wonder if the blocks are still going up tody.


----------



## MiRai

Mroberts95 said:


> Wonder if the blocks are still going up tody.


I would also like to know if I should stop F5'ing their site (and this thread) every few minutes.


----------



## pooter

It's already past 6pm in Chicago here so unless they're pulling some OT or flipping on sales on their way out... I doubt it lol


----------



## darkangelism

MiRai said:


> I would also like to know if I should stop F5'ing their site (and this thread) every few minutes.


and twitter


----------



## Zurv

Optimus WC said:


> FTW3 BLOCKS: Batch 1 blocks will go up for sale today. We're not doing the unlimited preorders like last time. We'll be doing batches, and as we get more comfortable with production times, keep increasing batches until it's an in-stock item. Batch one will be the most popular requests: full nickel mid, nickel cold plate, acrylic.


By today .. does that mean not really today? 
I didn't see it on the site. Is there some special page?


also, are all 5 people that have evga 3090 FTW cards here on oc.net?


----------



## darkangelism

Zurv said:


> By today .. does that mean not really today?
> I didn't see it on the site. Is there some special page?


Must be on Nvidia time,lol

also some of us have 3080s that these blocks work for too.


----------



## Zurv

It seems like optimus is their worst enemy.

Maybe not over promise. Don't announce something that isn't ready. (Don't make silly marketing claims.)

Make good blocks, don't sell what you don't have, no LEDs.. and people will buy it.


----------



## asdf893

it's up!


----------



## Optimus WC

Absolute GPU Block - FTW3 3080, 3080 Ti, 3090


Optimus Absolute GPU Block designed for the EVGA FTW3 3080/3080Ti/3090 The Absolute block is our all-out performance design, created to achieve maximum cooling on all areas of the new NVIDIA RTX 3080 and 3090 FTW3 cards from EVGA. The FTW3 GPUs pull huge amounts of power and require top cooling...




optimuspc.com





Here we go guys! Will keep updating with more information and pictures


----------



## Zurv

pricey .. but ordered


----------



## acoustic

$379? I mean yeah I ordered one .. but I'm not really happy with the price. Starting to push the limit with what's deemed "pay for what you get" and ridiculous.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, a few notes about the block and pricing:

This block is a monster. Once you see/feel it in real life, you'll understand what has gone into it.
We felt the new GPUs demand this extreme design and performance. The Gamer Nexus video, we think, proves our belief that, when done right, an Optimus room temp system can beat a lesser chilled system.
Also, the new GPU layouts require this massive block design...if you want to squeeze out all the performance.
For example, we have a real water path to the VRM mosfets. Meaning, the mosfets aren't just cooled by copper, but highly targeted.
Naturally, price is dictated by both material costs and time to make. This block starts out as 6lbs for just the copper. And then is machined down to 2.5lbs. It takes a long, long time to make these blocks. Basically, it takes 2-3x price/material to make this block than a typical gpu block. It's just that extreme.
Also, we're pricing backplates separately. The big XL heatsink isn't just a backplate, but, well, a heatsink. And a mounting system. Once you try it out, you'll wonder why all blocks aren't made this way  The reason is because it's pricy and performance focused.
We also include a big ol' Fujipoly pad on the XL heatsink. Overkill? Not really, these GPUs put out insane amounts of heat, and not just in the typical areas. The PCBs heat up, because the power is so extreme. Soaking and then dissipating as much heat as possible from the PCB has real world benefits.


----------



## acoustic

I can't wait to see it, but you have to understand that $379 for a block is a pretty significant jump in price.

Looking forward to having mine in hand. Time to finish ordering all the parts for my loop.


----------



## Optimus WC

acoustic said:


> I can't wait to see it, but you have to understand that $379 for a block is a pretty significant jump in price.
> 
> Looking forward to having mine in hand. Time to finish ordering all the parts for my loop.


For sure, you'll definitely enjoy it  

For pricing, we wanted to have this block starts at $249 (without a backplate). The Absolute XC3 will start at $229. Going forward, the tall/big cards like the FTW and Strix etc will be higher priced because of the massive slabs of copper needed. The slimmer cards will be lower priced, naturally.

We went with nickel because that's what has been the most popular in the past. The price is definitely on the upper end, we were like "would we buy this?" And the answer was "yeah, actually." So here we are. We set out to design the best block we could, and then worked backwards to make the block as affordable as possible. The PCB designs definitely don't make it easy to make an affordable block without going the all-acrylic style (like some blocks out there). 

Also, parts like the Fujipoly pads are like really expensive (all things considered). The stuff costs more per oz than anything else, it's crazy. 

In the future, we'll try to do a Foundation version that'll have 90% of the performance for a far lower price.


----------



## Mroberts95

I ordered the nickel version  
Can’t wait to see how they and the copper versions look.


----------



## onMute

ordered


----------



## Chamidorix

Could you comment on the choice of a (large) passive backplate heatsink vs an actively cooled solution? I know you discussed this many pages back, but given the high price you are asking, I think it is relevant for you reiterate why you have chosen this solution given the widespread concerns about cooling the 3090 vram on the back of the PCB. Cheaper alternatives (heatkiller, Aqua computer) are proposing active cooling of the backplate, which to the layperson "sounds" like the superior option.


----------



## acoustic

Followed up my 3080 block order with a Foundation CPU block and 8.5" pump/res combo. We're going all out Optimus..


----------



## pooter

Can we pleeeeeease get exact dimensions?


----------



## Optimus WC

Chamidorix said:


> Could you comment on the choice of a (large) passive backplate heatsink vs an actively cooled solution? I know you discussed this many pages back, but given the high price you are asking, I think it is relevant for you reiterate why you have chosen this solution given the widespread concerns about cooling the 3090 vram on the back of the PCB. Cheaper alternatives (heatkiller, Aqua computer) are proposing active cooling of the backplate, which to the layperson "sounds" like the superior option.


Sure. So active is better, when done right  Most of the "active" backplates out there are heatpipe versions, which isn't really "active" like a liquid block. And they aren't really all that effective, in our opinion. The VRAM puts out heat, but not an incredible amount. Heatpipes are better for targeted heat, like a CPU. But what's needed for the back of a GPU is large scale heat dissipation over a huge area (we believe). We'd wager our XL backplate cools considerably better than a thin backplate with heatpipe.

As for price, most backplates are around $50. And that's with a couple thermal pads. And they're typically flimsy metal, not a massive machined block. Our backplate is like 3x thicker with exponentially more thermal pads


----------



## asdf893

Chamidorix said:


> Could you comment on the choice of a (large) passive backplate heatsink vs an actively cooled solution? I know you discussed this many pages back, but given the high price you are asking, I think it is relevant for you reiterate why you have chosen this solution given the widespread concerns about cooling the 3090 vram on the back of the PCB. Cheaper alternatives (heatkiller, Aqua computer) are proposing active cooling of the backplate, which to the layperson "sounds" like the superior option.


Also interested in this.


----------



## Optimus WC

pooter said:


> Can we pleeeeeease get exact dimensions?


Yup! Just got the details from the engineer mastermind:

MAIN BLOCK: height: 123mm (flush with top of pcb), width: 287.5mm
BLOCK THICKNESS: 24mm (from PCB)
TERMINAL: 25.5mm high
BACKPLATE: 5.3mm (sticks out 7.6mm w/ thermal pad)


----------



## Mroberts95

Did the default air cooler cover the PCB another .5” or so? The actual specs are 300mm for the length from evga.


----------



## originxt

Optimus WC said:


> Yup! Just got the details from the engineer mastermind:
> 
> MAIN BLOCK: height: 123mm (flush with top of pcb), width: 287.5mm
> BLOCK THICKNESS: 24mm (from PCB)
> TERMINAL: 25.5mm high
> BACKPLATE: 5.3mm (sticks out 7.6mm w/ thermal pad)


So we're looking at about 148.5mm total height from the card itself.


----------



## Optimus WC

The block covers the PCB exactly. The discrepancy is the IO and bracket area.


----------



## darkangelism

Whew that price, I'm gonna have to sleep on it, my current card is such a bad overclocker and if the 20GB 3080 isn't out in time for my step up, it is a lot of money for a block that will get me maybe 2 or 3% more performance for a card that I will want to sell in 2 years for a 4080.


----------



## sakete

Yeah, if you replace your cards that frequently, $300+ is a lot of bucks. I tend to keep my cards a bit longer, usually skip at least one gen.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> As for price, most backplates are around $50. And that's with a couple thermal pads. And they're typically flimsy metal, not a massive machined block. Our backplate is like 3x thicker with exponentially more thermal pads


Hi,
400.us it better come with a foundation on the back plate for the memory lol otherwise this is just flat out crazy stupid pricing.
Good luck.


----------



## garyd9

Optimus WC said:


> It takes a long, long time to make these blocks. Basically, it takes 2-3x price/material to make this block than a typical gpu block. It's just that extreme.


Well, it obviously takes less time than making the 2080 blocks. Should those be considered vaporware now? Have you abandoned those customers in favor of the new shiny thing?

Please don't take my comments the wrong way. Optimus makes a very nice product. However, your commitment to your customers is extremely poor. You can make the best product in the world, but with very high pricing and horrible customer commitment, you can't possibly succeed in the long term.


----------



## MiRai

Oh, sure... The moment I stop F5'ing for the night it goes up for sale, and I was afraid I had missed this first batch.

Thankfully, it seems I have not.


----------



## asdf893

MiRai said:


> Oh, sure... The moment I stop F5'ing for the night it goes up for sale, and I was afraid I had missed this first batch.
> 
> Thankfully, it seems I have not.


I wonder how many stopped themselves from ordering after seeing the price :0


----------



## originxt

I usually skip a generation when I upgrade my gpu so I'll snag one when the copper is out but, the price is really off-putting. I'm sure the material and r&d costs are up there but I'm extremely curious as to how it performs compared to the competition when they release their blocks. Over-engineering is fine but the numbers have to match.


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Sure. So active is better, when done right  Most of the "active" backplates out there are heatpipe versions, which isn't really "active" like a liquid block. And they aren't really all that effective, in our opinion. The VRAM puts out heat, but not an incredible amount. Heatpipes are better for targeted heat, like a CPU. But what's needed for the back of a GPU is large scale heat dissipation over a huge area (we believe). We'd wager our XL backplate cools considerably better than a thin backplate with heatpipe.
> 
> As for price, most backplates are around $50. And that's with a couple thermal pads. And they're typically flimsy metal, not a massive machined block. Our backplate is like 3x thicker with exponentially more thermal pads


Hello Everyone! Long time no Talk!

So... @Optimus WC anyway we can see some more Pictures of this bad ass finished Product? I of course Ordered mine as soon as I knew the link was Live, Happy to spend $400 To Cool my FTW3 3080, I just wanted a Block to keep it cool, but an Optimus Block, even better! Now I am just going to be counting the days til November, like its Christmas. Would love to see some Beautiful Shots of the Block from all Angles, and the Backplate, if you have them?


----------



## Section31

beautiful block


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> beautiful block


Hi,
You couldn't give me a nickel block and I sure wouldn't buy a 400.us copper one lol


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> I wonder how many stopped themselves from ordering after seeing the price :0


It makes me want the strix block even more. If FTW comes up ahead i will get that card


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You couldn't give me a nickel block and I sure wouldn't buy a 400.us copper one lol


Well i don’t mind paying if its performance is good.


----------



## MiRai

asdf893 said:


> I wonder how many stopped themselves from ordering after seeing the price :0


I'll be honest, there was a triple-take followed by some hesitation until I read what they said about the block itself on the previous page. This block is, without a doubt, pricier than future offerings from competitors will be, but if the reviews that I've read/watched about other Optimus blocks, in the past, hold true, then having the beefiest water-cooling solution for these GPUs that already run pretty warm, is going to be preferential. In addition to that, a block for my 3090 FTW3 is the only thing holding up my new build, so I'm kind of in a "fk it" mode because I just want to put this thing together, and Optimus is first manufacturer with something to offer.

In other news, I've never vertically mounted a GPU, and while I'd love to do that for this Optimus block (due to its weight/size), I also don't want to lose access to some other PCIe slots, so it's time to begin researching if there's a solution to that, otherwise it'll be horizontally mounted with additional sag support.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Well i don’t mind paying if its performance is good.


Hi,
The way the nickel has panned out it is surely crap flaking off.... so I wouldn't waste the time with it.
EK/ watercool and now TechN to choose from.


----------



## originxt

How much of a difference are we looking at from the slap of Fujipoly backplate pad? I feel we are really reaching extreme diminishing returns at this point while increasing costs for both you and the consumer by a great deal. Have you tried placing cuts on the important areas to see if we see any relevant temperature difference? Even GN notes the substantial costs associated with having such a large pad.


----------



## Kana Chan

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, a few notes about the block and pricing:
> 
> This block is a monster. Once you see/feel it in real life, you'll understand what has gone into it.
> We felt the new GPUs demand this extreme design and performance. The Gamer Nexus video, we think, proves our belief that, when done right, an Optimus room temp system can beat a lesser chilled system.
> Also, the new GPU layouts require this massive block design...if you want to squeeze out all the performance.
> For example, we have a real water path to the VRM mosfets. Meaning, the mosfets aren't just cooled by copper, but highly targeted.
> Naturally, price is dictated by both material costs and time to make. This block starts out as 6lbs for just the copper. And then is machined down to 2.5lbs. It takes a long, long time to make these blocks. Basically, it takes 2-3x price/material to make this block than a typical gpu block. It's just that extreme.
> Also, we're pricing backplates separately. The big XL heatsink isn't just a backplate, but, well, a heatsink. And a mounting system. Once you try it out, you'll wonder why all blocks aren't made this way  The reason is because it's pricy and performance focused.
> We also include a big ol' Fujipoly pad on the XL heatsink. Overkill? Not really, these GPUs put out insane amounts of heat, and not just in the typical areas. The PCBs heat up, because the power is so extreme. Soaking and then dissipating as much heat as possible from the PCB has real world benefits.


Nice to see GN has a block from this company after 3 years since you guys came onto the market.



originxt said:


> How much of a difference are we looking at from the slap of Fujipoly backplate pad? I feel we are really reaching extreme diminishing returns at this point while increasing costs for both you and the consumer by a great deal. Have you tried placing cuts on the important areas to see if we see any relevant temperature difference? Even GN notes the substantial costs associated with having such a large pad.


Gelid has some new thermal pads recently but no one's done a review between them vs the Fujipoly pads. Maybe they might cost less for same or better performance?


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> The way the nickel has panned out it is surely crap flaking off.... so I wouldn't waste the time with it.
> EK/ watercool and now TechN to choose from.


Talking about Nickle flacking off and recommending EK in the next sentence. That was a funny.

Sadly Watercool will likely pick the Strix only to make a block for, EK is EK and until TechN can back up their claims with reviews they aren't even an option I'd ever consider.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> The way the nickel has panned out it is surely crap flaking off.... so I wouldn't waste the time with it.
> EK/ watercool and now TechN to choose from.


You mean the reservoir case. Yeah thats odd. I had the xe nickel cpu block and didn’t notice any major issues. 

Its good to have watercool and techn around. More competition the better. Not touching ekwb again.


----------



## originxt

Who else is making blocks for ftw3 though? I think optimus and ek might be the only 2.


----------



## darkangelism

sakete said:


> Yeah, if you replace your cards that frequently, $300+ is a lot of bucks. I tend to keep my cards a bit longer, usually skip at least one gen.


Yeah usually i wait 2 or 3 gen, but with moving to 3440X1440 120 and 4k 144 for my monitors i think every gen for awhile is going to be beneficial, it was so much easier back in the 1080p days.

I think i am sitting this first batch out and will see what temps you guys get and how the hydrocopper is and if i can step up to 20GB



originxt said:


> Who else is making blocks for ftw3 though? I think optimus and ek might be the only 2.


official EVGA hydrocopper, though they haven't committed to selling it standalone, but Jacob Freeman said the temps on it are in the 50s under load, so that is what Optimus has to beat.


----------



## Shawnb99

originxt said:


> Who else is making blocks for ftw3 though? I think optimus and ek might be the only 2.


Hydrocopper will also be an option.


----------



## Thebc2

Please reconsidering not offering copper!. I would pay the 378, but not for nickel. Do we have any idea how far out the copper blocks are?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## oreonutz

Section31 said:


> It makes me want the strix block even more. If FTW comes up ahead i will get that card


I am loving my FTW3. I still haven't installed my Crosshair VIII Hero, so I am running on my Crosshair VII Hero, X470, and I use 2 NVMe Drives, a Raid Card, and a 10Gbe Nic, so not only am I running at PCIE Gen3, but I am running at PCIE Gen3 x8. And Even so, the Performance I am getting out of this FTW3 with the 450w BIOS Is BAD ASS! I was at Top 20 in Port Royal for the the 3080 and 3950x until the Liquid Nitrogen Guys started getting in there, but considering how far back I am being held by the PCIE Bus for Benchmarking, I am pretty fricking happy with this card. I can push Memory All the way to 21.5Gbps (1350Mhz) and the Core to 2130Mhz Peak, which with just Air means it sits about 2050Mhz Average, All While staying under 78c on the Stock Cooler. And to top it off, When Undervolting but OCing, You can see even better gains by Controlling that Voltage, the Peak Clock doesn't go quite as high, but you are able to stay with a much more Consistent Clock due to there being Less Heat.

This is the first time in last 5 generations where I feel like I actually got a good card and not just an average one or a Lemon. I know not all FTW3's will be this way, but I really wanted a Strix because of the crazy VRM and vBIOS, but the FTW3 is just a tad under the Strix VRM, and with the 450w BIOS they Released the other day, its a Killer card if you get lucky and get good silicon.

For Comparison I also have a Founders Edition, a MSI Ventus OC, and a Gigabyte Gaming OC, and the Gigabyte did better then all of them in terms of OCing and Undervolting, with just a 330w Power Limit, but on all 3 I couldn't do any better than 1250Mhz on the Memory (20Gbps). The Founders could do 1313Mhz with a Cold card, but after about 20 Minutes benching with the card it was Crash City, would have to push backdown to around 1250Mhz to gain stability again, and no matter what I did, if the PCB was hot, thats as far as I could Push the Memory. Once I let it sit idle for about 20 mins though, I could quickly set the Memory back up to 1313 (21Gbps) and pass 3 to 5 runs of Port Royale before the Crashing would happen again.

Where as with this FTW3, I can game for hours at 1336Mhz (I can hit 1350 for a few Benchmark Runs but then I crash here as well, but what is awesome is just backing off a tiny bit to 1336Mhz and I can keep that stable all day). So out of the 4 Cards I have personally been able to play with, the FTW3 definitely gets my Vote.

I just can't wait to Throw my Optimus Block on it!


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> The way the nickel has panned out it is surely crap flaking off.... so I wouldn't waste the time with it.
> EK/ watercool and now TechN to choose from.


Flaking? I bought my Nickel Block not long after you got your first Block, I literally just drained and flushed my loop for the 1st time since installing that block last year, and inspected it pretty heavily, I wanted to make sure there were no gunk in the fins (Which I am happy to say there was not any at all!) there was absolutely NO flaking on my Nickel block AT ALL. It still looked like it was fresh off the factory line.

Are you saying you have experienced this first hand?


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Talking about Nickle flacking off and recommending EK in the next sentence. That was a funny.
> 
> Sadly Watercool will likely pick the Strix only to make a block for, EK is EK and until TechN can back up their claims with reviews they aren't even an option I'd ever consider.


Hi,
I don't do nickel plating period so I'm hardly recommending it lol


Section31 said:


> You mean the reservoir case. Yeah thats odd. I had the xe nickel cpu block and didn’t notice any major issues.
> 
> Its good to have watercool and techn around. More competition the better. Not touching ekwb again.


Hi,
Just 4-5 pages back new batch of amd thread ripper and cold plate nickel coming off the cooling fins lol so hard pass on the optimus nickel plating hype
EK still have a nickel plated and still looking pretty good after 3+ years.

But yeah need a price without the fuji nonsense just thicknesses needed everywhere.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I don't do nickel plating period so I'm hardly recommending it lol
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Just 4-5 pages back new batch of amd thread ripper and cold plate nickel coming off the cooling fins lol so hard pass on the optimus nickel plating hype
> EK still have a nickel plated and still looking pretty good after 3+ years.
> 
> But yeah need a price without the fuji nonsense just thicknesses needed everywhere.


Haven’t been paying attention to it per say. But will keep an eye. Though might not notice since Lga1700 and AM5 likely will require new block for me. Saw an imahe of the Lga1700 sockets and its definitely larger than Lga1200.


----------



## 98S4

Thebc2 said:


> Please reconsidering not offering copper!. I would pay the 378, but not for nickel. Do we have any idea how far out the copper blocks are?


Did I miss somewhere that they aren't offering copper? I thought it was just a later release. As someone who did an early preorder for the 2080ti block I've been waiting 9 months for that giant chunk of copper look.


----------



## Mroberts95

They are offering copper. A few pages back its faster for them to do nickel than to do copper.
Copper will come later.


----------



## 98S4

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Just 4-5 pages back new batch of amd thread ripper and cold plate nickel coming off the cooling fins lol so hard pass on the optimus nickel plating hype
> EK still have a nickel plated and still looking pretty good after 3+ years.


There's definitely more than 50 pages of EK nickle plating issues. People with first hand experience, myself included, unlike you. Bad batches happen. The important part is how Optimus handles it and from what I saw they honored their warranty.


----------



## D-EJ915

Mroberts95 said:


> They are offering copper. A few pages back its faster for them to do nickel than to do copper.
> Copper will come later.


How's it faster to do nickel plating? It's literally an entire extra step that an outside company has to do for them? lol. Is this logic how they were able to ship GN blocks but not ship your card? The absurdity of it is just comical.

I've paid a lot for custom blocks before so price isn't too insane depending on what the actual product looks like since there's no backplate render or a real life picture or anything yet.


----------



## Shawnb99

D-EJ915 said:


> How's it faster to do nickel plating? It's literally an entire extra step that an outside company has to do for them? lol. Is this logic how they were able to ship GN blocks but not ship your card? The absurdity of it is just comical.





Optimus WC said:


> We went with nickel because that's what has been the most popular in the past.


----------



## D-EJ915

I'll be impressed if they actually already have them produced and sent them out for plating given the track record for stock. Hopefully they'll hit the ground running this time.


----------



## Mroberts95

Who knows at this point. Timelines have changed a few times already. I dont have that kind of info. Sorry


Why they couldnt send me my block and card back already I wish I knew. I have messages with why. 
I am curious if i get my block and card before people who ordered the blocks do.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC What's the weight of the block?


----------



## criskoe

$500 Canadian Rupees. Plus shipping Plus Tax and duties.

equals $630ish 

Wow.

Sure nice looking. but I’m not baller enough


----------



## originxt

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC What's the weight of the block?


They said the block was machined down to 2.5lbs so with the acrylic, maybe 3?


----------



## Shawnb99

When the 3090 costs $2500+ not including taxes, $500 for the block isn't so bad. It's just the added cost of living up north. Almost a 50% markup up when you consider exchange + taxes. Even more if ordering from the US with UPS and FedEx charging $50+ to clear customs.





originxt said:


> They said the block was machined down to 2.5lbs so with the acrylic, maybe 3?


3lbs isn't so bad. I think I could do that vertically then.


----------



## Thebc2

Yes, I don’t understand how plain copper would be more work than nickel plating those same copper blocks given both would need to be further finished. I don’t pretend known, just assuming. But regardless, the lack of a plain copper offering hurts. Even if it is “Optimus” nickel, nickel in general gives me great pause. That And I much prefer the copper aesthetic. Combine that with the added cost of nickel plating and I just don’t see any value there at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Shawnb99

It's not that Copper is more work it's just means it would take longer if they made more then one version atm. They went with the most popular choice for the first batch and will open it up to options in later batches. It's quicker to make one version then it is to make two.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> $500 Canadian Rupees. Plus shipping Plus Tax and duties.
> 
> equals $630ish
> 
> Wow.
> 
> Sure nice looking. but I’m not baller enough


 The other thing is how long you will using the card. If your the group thats likely jumping to Hopper in 2022, then maybe have to think about it.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> The other thing is how long you will using the card. If your the group thats likely jumping to Hopper in 2022, then maybe have to think about it.


not really much to think about for me. Im in the group that just can’t afford that much. Lol. 

here’s to hoping a “foundation“ line will actually come to fruition but still be good and worth it.


----------



## Thebc2

Ahh well, I couldn’t hold out for long lol. Block ordered, now I need to figure out how to support this thing in my reverse layout case. Don’t know if a vertical mount actually helps me much, think I might need some support regardless in my Caselabs M8.

I will probably try it mounted horizontally with a support underneath to start while I explore vertical mount options. All things being equal I prefer to not introduce the additional complexity of a pcie extender.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Chamidorix

With the chip being smaller this gen, with vastly more TDP(on 3090 vs 2080 ti, assuming eventual unlocked XOC bios) this chip is crying for liquid metal. Already got 5-10 degrees shaved with 2080ti on XOC. So I'm all on board with nickel first.


----------



## shiokarai

Well, that's some next gen pricing alright... pass. For now got my puny-peony alphacool block + backplate for €130 (about $150) for my 3080 and GPU is sitting at 31-33 C at 100% load so: NO. there's a limit for the scalping of the sheep and this crosses the line 

BTW (hint: FTW3 not so good)


----------



## DooRules

Shawnb99 said:


> When the 3090 costs $2500+ not including taxes, $500 for the block isn't so bad. It's just the added cost of living up north. Almost a 50% markup up when you consider exchange + taxes. Even more if ordering from the US with UPS and FedEx charging $50+ to clear customs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3lbs isn't so bad. I think I could do that vertically then.


That price is a joke imho. Figured it would be expensive but that is in no way reasonable.


----------



## Section31

DooRules said:


> That price is a joke imho. Figured it would be expensive but that is in no way reasonable.


Price is on the very high side for sure. This generation we are seeing higher costs for blocks on Nvidia Side. 2080ti blocks with backplates were around 250Cad range for Heatkiller, Aquacomputer and Ekwb. We are seeing them in the mid 300ish to 400Cad range now.

The other hope is the radeon cards blocks are much more affordable since they are more energy efficient, etc


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> not really much to think about for me. Im in the group that just can’t afford that much. Lol.
> 
> here’s to hoping a “foundation“ line will actually come to fruition but still be good and worth it.


I get you as lot of people budget are tight. Another option for you to consider is the alphacool blocks as they are pretty descent for price they charge. Hopefully PPCS has some nice sales this Black Friday (20% manufacturer + 10-12% coupons)


----------



## ThrashZone

zervun said:


> Got my computer up and a successful leak test for 24 hours.
> 
> Unfortunately looks like my threadripper block has some plating issues from what I can see - thoughts? I was going to reach out to optimus. The pump nickel plated tornado piece and my bitspower titan V waterblock look fine, just the CPU block.
> 
> Both radiators were only flushed out with distilled water. Have not used any biocide, additives or anything except distilled water. It's also been drained/flushed 3 times.
> 
> View attachment 2461644
> View attachment 2461645
> View attachment 2461646
> View attachment 2461647
> View attachment 2461642
> View attachment 2461644
> View attachment 2461645
> View attachment 2461646
> View attachment 2461647
> 
> View attachment 2461642


Hi,
13 pages back 


https://www.overclock.net/attachments/optimus1-jpg.2461642/


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 13 pages back
> 
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/attachments/optimus1-jpg.2461642/


Was that your system?


----------



## ThrashZone

oreonutz said:


> Was that your system?


Hi,
No just follow the post link @*zervun*









Optimus Waterblock


Good to know, if you get any news let me know and vice versa, before last email I got they had tested my card and had blocks designed and manufacturing then back on the 30th of September. So I am hoping to get it back in the next two weeks as I go on a business trip soon and won’t be home for...




www.overclock.net


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> No just follow the post link @*zervun*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimus Waterblock
> 
> 
> Good to know, if you get any news let me know and vice versa, before last email I got they had tested my card and had blocks designed and manufacturing then back on the 30th of September. So I am hoping to get it back in the next two weeks as I go on a business trip soon and won’t be home for...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net


Just did. So from what I can tell this was just a bad batch, and has since been rectified. Are you saying the problems haven't been taking care of and the products Optimus are shipping are still doing this?


----------



## ThrashZone

oreonutz said:


> Just did. So from what I can tell this was just a bad batch, and has since been rectified. Are you saying the problems haven't been taking care of and the products Optimus are shipping are still doing this?


Hi,
I'm just linking back to the last issue I noticed about nickel 9 days ago
Could be oil from rads, could be nickel flaw I have no idea or if optimus finally contacted the dude.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, regarding the nickel, it's actually not corrosion. It's copper buildup from other parts of the system breaking down. Typically, it's a radiator that causes the problems (no surprise, radiators are typically dirty and problematic). We think it could be the hard core mayhems cleaner that's actually etching away at the copper and brass in radiators and causing them to deteriorate over time. 

Below, we received this from a customer. We simply scrubbed the cold plate and the copper disappeared. It looks bad at first, but it's because nickel is attractive to copper in the loop. We've seen it with copper sulfate biocide as well. 

With reservoirs, we have now seen 100% of the cases are caused when the radiator dumps directly into the reservoir, so the nickel vortex breaker is the first place nickel touches the fluid out of the radiator. If the water goes into the block, then it shows up on the block. And because our blocks are super clear, it's easy to notice it immediately.


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, regarding the nickel, it's actually not corrosion. It's copper buildup from other parts of the system breaking down. Typically, it's a radiator that causes the problems (no surprise, radiators are typically dirty and problematic). We think it could be the hard core mayhems cleaner that's actually etching away at the copper and brass in radiators and causing them to deteriorate over time.
> 
> Below, we received this from a customer. We simply scrubbed the cold plate and the copper disappeared. It looks bad at first, but it's because nickel is attractive to copper in the loop. We've seen it with copper sulfate biocide as well.
> 
> With reservoirs, we have now seen 100% of the cases are caused when the radiator dumps directly into the reservoir, so the nickel vortex breaker is the first place nickel touches the fluid out of the radiator. If the water goes into the block, then it shows up on the block. And because our blocks are super clear, it's easy to notice it immediately.
> 
> View attachment 2462605


So are you saying Mayhems Biocide + and Inhibitor + are causing this? Or the Blitz Kits that we use to clean the Rads before throwing them in the loop?


----------



## Optimus WC

oreonutz said:


> So are you saying Mayhems Biocide + and Inhibitor + are causing this? Or the Blitz Kits that we use to clean the Rads before throwing them in the loop?


So this event is super, super rare, I think we've only seen this in about four cases (but we like to troubleshoot everything. And all these people received replacement parts so we could test the parts internally). 

The working theory is the Blitz causes problems. And/or bad/old radiators. And/or copper sulfate biocide. But, again, it's so small a sample, that we have no way of really knowing. Tons and tons of people use those items without issue. And loops these days are loaded with all kinds of parts from different companies. Some use cheap brass and copper that actually have steel and aluminum particles embedded.

Regardless, if you see this, a thorough scrubbing will do the trick. So nothing to really to worry about


----------



## Shawnb99

oreonutz said:


> So are you saying Mayhems Biocide + and Inhibitor + are causing this? Or the Blitz Kits that we use to clean the Rads before throwing them in the loop?


It’s the acid from part one of the blitz kit. I think EK voids your warranty if you use it. It’s known to be bad for nickel plating hence why you’re supposed to flush it all out before putting the radiators back in your loop and also use part 2 to counteract the acid


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> So this event is super, super rare, I think we've only seen this in about four cases (but we like to troubleshoot everything. And all these people received replacement parts so we could test the parts internally).
> 
> The working theory is the Blitz causes problems. And/or bad/old radiators. And/or copper sulfate biocide. But, again, it's so small a sample, that we have no way of really knowing. Tons and tons of people use those items without issue. And loops these days are loaded with all kinds of parts from different companies. Some use cheap brass and copper that actually have steel and aluminum particles embedded.
> 
> Regardless, if you see this, a thorough scrubbing will do the trick. So nothing to really to worry about


Appreciate it! Also, one more Question.

Anyway you can post some Beauty shots of your Finished Product???? I want to see the Backplate, and the Block from all Angles, and I am sure I am not the only one! Its like Christmas, counting the days til the block gets here!


----------



## Optimus WC

oreonutz said:


> Appreciate it! Also, one more Question.
> 
> Anyway you can post some Beauty shots of your Finished Product???? I want to see the Backplate, and the Block from all Angles, and I am sure I am not the only one! Its like Christmas, counting the days til the block gets here!


Definitely  I'll post more renders shortly, then actual production pics as we get closer. The nickel versions will be done basically right before shipping


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> Appreciate it! Also, one more Question.
> 
> Anyway you can post some Beauty shots of your Finished Product???? I want to see the Backplate, and the Block from all Angles, and I am sure I am not the only one! Its like Christmas, counting the days til the block gets here!


I'm betting they don't have a finished production version yet, at least, not until later this week or next week. What you saw on GN was a prototype. The backplate was just raw aluminum, whereas the finished product will be silver anodized.


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Definitely  I'll post more renders shortly, then actual production pics as we get closer. The nickel versions will be done basically right before shipping


Hey Optimus, will the blocks for those of us who provided cards for prototyping purposes ship out first (and this week perhaps?).

I had also sent you an email (and a PM here)


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> It’s the acid from part one of the blitz kit. I think EK voids your warranty if you use it. It’s known to be bad for nickel plating hence why you’re supposed to flush it all out before putting the radiators back in your loop and also use part 2 to counteract the acid


Yes, we personally think using extreme acids to clean is a really bad idea. Because of the desire to clean bad block/radiator manufacturing, people turn to these cleaning products. But the acids and other products do more harm than good, and actually damage the metals inside. 

Plus, truly getting a radiator or o-ring assembly free of all acid is nearly impossible without taking everything apart. It may seem like doing flushes will get the job done, but it really doesn't. Each part needs to be unassembled, cleaned and reinstalled to make sure all acid is out of the loop. Otherwise, it gets trapped in cracks and joints and eats away over time. 

OUR ADVICE: Simply clean each part before installing and never use heavy system prep/cleaners. They're just not needed!


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> I'm betting they don't have a finished production version yet, at least, not until later this week or next week. What you saw on GN was a prototype. The backplate was just raw aluminum, whereas the finished product will be silver anodized.


Yup. Am very much aware of GN's blocks being protypes. Just eager to see some beauty shots of the finished product. The Renders look Gorgeous.


----------



## Optimus WC

sakete said:


> Hey Optimus, will the blocks for those of us who provided cards for prototyping purposes ship out first (and this week perhaps?).
> 
> I had also sent you an email (and a PM here)


Definitely  It'll still take a little bit to get the finished backplates anodized etc. Unless you want raw parts, you'd be the only one to get it 



sakete said:


> I'm betting they don't have a finished production version yet, at least, not until later this week or next week. What you saw on GN was a prototype. The backplate was just raw aluminum, whereas the finished product will be silver anodized.


That's right, the XL heatsink gets satin finished and then anodized either clear or black. It matches our blocks.


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Definitely  It'll still take a little bit to get the finished backplates anodized etc. Unless you want raw parts, you'd be the only one to get it
> 
> 
> 
> That's right, the XL heatsink gets satin finished and then anodized either clear or black. It matches our blocks.


Cool. Yeah, I'd definitely want a finished backplate, otherwise the block itself in copper (not nickel) as we agreed on. And the silver finish should match my foundation AM4 block nicely


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Cool. Yeah, I'd definitely want a finished backplate, otherwise the block itself in copper (not nickel) as we agreed on. And the silver finish should match my foundation AM4 block nicely


Might want to delete that before you start a Riot here, lol. I can see all the b itching now "Why is he so special, I would have loaned my card" lol...


----------



## Mroberts95

Ill take one that un anodized  if it means I get my card back faster.


----------



## Mroberts95

Optimus WC said:


> Definitely  It'll still take a little bit to get the finished backplates anodized etc. Unless you want raw parts, you'd be the only one to get it
> 
> 
> 
> That's right, the XL heatsink gets satin finished and then anodized either clear or black. It matches our blocks.


Ill take one that un anodized  if it means I get my card back faster. Sent an email.


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> Might want to delete that before you start a Riot here, lol. I can see all the b itching now "Why is he so special, I would have loaned my card" lol...


Well, I was the first one to send in my card, so I guess that's a perk. I took a $900 risk  . And eventually they'll make pure copper blocks as well.


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Well, I was the first one to send in my card, so I guess that's a perk. I took a $900 risk  . And eventually they'll make pure copper blocks as well.


I would agree, definitely one of the perks. Just preparing for the flood of incoming, "But if he gets it, I want it!" comments.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, it's just the first batch id nickel plated only, they thought that was the demand.

Whoops- two pages of replies loaded after I commented, My bad!


----------



## oreonutz

oreonutz said:


> I would agree, definitely one of the perks. Just preparing for the flood of incoming, "But if he gets it, I want it!" comments.


All good!

Pretty sure it is the demand based on past orders. Its just you copper boys are loud and proud! LOL!


----------



## Mroberts95

Yes we are


----------



## darkangelism

After seeing the updated info on the page, the non nickel version being $40 less and the slim backplate being $30 less puts it into a more reasonable price range for me, with a 3080 and not a 3090 the XL backplate seems like overkill with no memory on the back, though the 20GB card may change that. 



shiokarai said:


> Well, that's some next gen pricing alright... pass. For now got my puny-peony alphacool block + backplate for €130 (about $150) for my 3080 and GPU is sitting at 31-33 C at 100% load so: NO. there's a limit for the scalping of the sheep and this crosses the line


Yeah that is the biggest pause for me, even if this block is 10-15C lower that probably doesn't give more than a couple percent better performance for a big price increase.



sakete said:


> Well, I was the first one to send in my card, so I guess that's a perk. I took a $900 risk  . And eventually they'll make pure copper blocks as well.


Plus you haven't had your card for months.


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> After seeing the updated info on the page, the non nickel version being $40 less and the slim backplate being $30 less puts it into a more reasonable price range for me, with a 3080 and not a 3090 the XL backplate seems like overkill with no memory on the back, though the 20GB card may change that.
> 
> 
> Yeah that is the biggest pause for me, even if this block is 10-15C lower that probably doesn't give more than a couple percent better performance for a big price increase.
> 
> 
> 
> Plus you haven't had your card for months.


More like a month now, not months. But yeah, I've been itching to try it out, still running my 980ti [emoji14]


----------



## Mroberts95

Oof. I still have my 2080ti but cant wait to get that 3090 back.


----------



## Optimus WC

MrRoberts canceled his order since he's getting the free block for sending in his FTW 

So there's one more available: Absolute GPU Block - FTW3 3080/3090

Update: snapped up


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> MrRoberts canceled his order since he's getting the free block for sending in his FTW
> 
> So there's one more available: Absolute GPU Block - FTW3 3080/3090


Looks like I just lucked out and snagged it...maybe?


----------



## Zurv

@Optimus WC 
Question about the backplate.
How is the heat coming off that? Should one plan to point a fan at it?
I'm worried that the backplate it just going to soak heat then trap heat coming from the card. Maybe it could be ribbed for more pleasure surface area? 

also, if you could get the block to me before cyberpunk... that would be great... shhh i won't tell anyone if you rushed it to me. ^_^


----------



## Shawnb99

Next people are going to start offering double cheeseburgers for priority shipping...


----------



## Optimus WC

Zurv said:


> @Optimus WC
> Question about the backplate.
> How is the heat coming off that? Should one plan to point a fan at it?
> I'm worried that the backplate it just going to soak heat then trap heat coming from the card. Maybe it could be ribbed for more pleasure surface area?
> 
> also, if you could get the block to me before cyberpunk... that would be great... shhh i won't tell anyone if you rushed it to me. ^_^


Hahaha

And yeah, it'll be ribbed for sure. Roughly like this older prototype, though the FTW is funky because it's tall with weird screw placements. Gamersnexus didn't get the final versions, though it still wicks away tons of heat because the surface area is huge and aluminum is great at dissipating heat:


----------



## Shawnb99

I would of had a 3090 but I got cute and tried to send it direct to Optimus and EVGA didn't like that, by the time I changed my address back all were gone. Damn NVidia and it's paper launch


----------



## asdf893

Optimus WC said:


> Hahaha
> 
> And yeah, it'll be ribbed for sure. Roughly like this older prototype, though the FTW is funky because it's tall with weird screw placements. Gamersnexus didn't get the final versions, though it still wicks away tons of heat because the surface area is huge and aluminum is great at dissipating heat:
> 
> View attachment 2462643


Looks great. 2 PCIe pins but has the SLI fingers; this must be a 2000 series right? Speaking of copper, if y'all have any issues with the nickel process I'd be more than happy to take a "downgrade" to a copper block instead. Just putting it out there. I must be one of the early orders as I completed the order and then posted here right as you posted the first heads-up.


----------



## Optimus WC

asdf893 said:


> Looks great. 2 PCIe pins but has the SLI fingers; this must be a 2000 series right? Speaking of copper, if y'all have any issues with the nickel process I'd be more than happy to take a "downgrade" to a copper block instead. Just putting it out there. I must be one of the early orders as I completed the order and then posted here right as you posted the first heads-up.


The opposite, actually  Our nickel is extremely strong, way stronger than any of the cosmetic electroplated nickel out there. What's happening is other components in the loop are shedding copper and it's showing up on our nickel. But a good scrub gets rid of the copper.

And, yes, the pic is of the 2080ti. Which we're still making, though many people upgraded to 3000 series from their preorders, thus putting 3000 before 2080ti now.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> The opposite, actually  Our nickel is extremely strong, way stronger than any of the cosmetic electroplated nickel out there. What's happening is other components in the loop are shedding copper and it's showing up on our nickel. But a good scrub gets rid of the copper.
> 
> And, yes, the pic is of the 2080ti. Which we're still making, though many people upgraded to 3000 series from their preorders, thus putting 3000 before 2080ti now.


FTW3 2080ti block???


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> FTW3 2080ti block???


Haha, noooo, just ref. 

This is a pic of fluid from inside a Hardware Labs radiator after being ultra sonic cleaned. This fluid was from only the inside, not outside paint or anything. It's a mix of solder flux, brass, copper, etc. So if you're wondering why material buildup shows up on blocks, this is why. Even a good rinse doesn't do the same thing as ultrasonic cleaning (or blasting water through the rad continuously).


----------



## originxt

Optimus WC said:


> Haha, noooo, just ref.
> 
> This is a pic of fluid from inside a Hardware Labs radiator after being ultra sonic cleaned. This fluid was from only the inside, not outside paint or anything. It's a mix of solder flux, brass, copper, etc. So if you're wondering why material buildup shows up on blocks, this is why. Even a good rinse doesn't do the same thing as ultrasonic cleaning (or blasting water through the rad continuously).
> 
> View attachment 2462645
> 
> View attachment 2462646


Problem is, how is the average person supposed to clean rads that way? Best that, at least I have, is just rinsing with distilled water.


----------



## Optimus WC

originxt said:


> Problem is, how is the average person supposed to clean rads that way? Best that, at least I have, is just rinsing with distilled water.


Yeah, exactly. That's why we'll be making radiators at some point.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Yeah, exactly. That's why we'll be making radiators at some point.


I want a pure copper one, none of this painting it. Pure beautiful copper. Fins, sides, everything


----------



## LiquidHaus

Hey Optimus,

I sent Josh an email but I'm honestly not sure if you got it or not. It's been a while!

Our 3090 FTW3 is waiting patiently...


----------



## dwolvin

Optimus radiators? I'm interested!


----------



## Shawnb99

I can just imagine the pricing needed to make quality clean radiators. Won’t be cheap I’m sure.


----------



## LiquidHaus

They might be similar in pricing to Aquacomputer's offerings. They don't require cleaning either.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah true, AC’s aren’t that bad in price.
Hopefully they can keep the costs down. I’ll need 6 of them.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Optimus radiators? I'm interested!


Really that fast. I thought it was just in planning phase. It's good to see new internal radiators. I've always wanted to own an Heatkiller/Aquacomputer radiator but i couldn't justify its price to performance. Even the Mo-Ra is scheduled for an update.


----------



## Sir Beregond

LiquidHaus said:


> They might be similar in pricing to Aquacomputer's offerings. They don't require cleaning either.


That's good to know. Wish they had some black ones. Didn't see any on PPCS.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> That's good to know. Wish they had some black ones. Didn't see any on PPCS.


I read on Heatkiller Thread, the new radiators coming in November don't require cleaning either. However the Heatkiller internal radiators are designed towards sub-1000rpm fans but lets see how well it performs. Definitely going to get them to test out. I think there was mention of black color option too. Forgot where as that Heatkiller Thread is too large to sort through to find with some of the information probably from 2017 too.


----------



## shiokarai

Suddenly HardwareLabs rads are bad? Jeeez.... you people will believe anything


----------



## Optimus WC

shiokarai said:


> Suddenly HardwareLabs rads are bad? Jeeez.... you people will believe anything


We use Nemesis rads, the performance is tops, but theyre dirty on the inside, thus the extra ultrasonic cleaning. We also use a 3ft tall airplex gigant, performance is much less per square inch but it's so massive, it does the job for a completely fanless system


----------



## Shawnb99

shiokarai said:


> Suddenly HardwareLabs rads are bad? Jeeez.... you people will believe anything


Not bad. Dirty. There's a difference. You can't deny they are not dirty.


----------



## sakete

I think the best setup is to cover your whole roof in radiators and run the water through that. Fanless, and very cool.

If I ever finish my basement and turn that into my setup, I'll put a couple MORA in the unfinished part and run some long tubing to those, so all the heat stays outside the room. Because my office currently gets HOT!


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> We use Nemesis rads, the performance is tops, but theyre dirty on the inside, thus the extra ultrasonic cleaning. We also use a 3ft tall airplex gigant, performance is much less per square inch but it's so massive, it does the job for a completely fanless system


Those are killer units. I looked at them before I decided to go with the Mo-Ra3.


----------



## acoustic

I'm trying to figure out what rads to order. Those Aquacomputer ones are sick but holy hell, $175 per rad for the Copper fins? wow. The stainless sides would go great with the rest of my build but $175 x2 is a lot ..

I'm assuming the Aluminum fin rads are going to perform much worse?


----------



## chibi

Optimus WC said:


> We use Nemesis rads, the performance is tops, but theyre dirty on the inside, thus the extra ultrasonic cleaning. We also use a 3ft tall airplex gigant, performance is much less per square inch but it's so massive, it does the job for a completely fanless system


How the heck does the average Broseph/Duddette even go about ultrasonic cleaning rads, lol. I already have your Sig block, now there's another thing to wait for? While you're making blocks, build a time machine too so we never have anymore back orders


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> I read on Heatkiller Thread, the new radiators coming in November don't require cleaning either. However the Heatkiller internal radiators are designed towards sub-1000rpm fans but lets see how well it performs. Definitely going to get them to test out. I think there was mention of black color option too. Forgot where as that Heatkiller Thread is too large to sort through to find with some of the information probably from 2017 too.


Interesting. I prefer low RPM fans as I watercool more for silent computing, but if they perform too...Yeah, I'd be all over that.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Optimus WC said:


> We use Nemesis rads, the performance is tops, but theyre dirty on the inside, thus the extra ultrasonic cleaning. We also use a 3ft tall airplex gigant, performance is much less per square inch but it's so massive, it does the job for a completely fanless system


So what's the best way for the average Joe to clean rads sufficiently? I agree they tend to be dirty as hell.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Interesting. I prefer low RPM fans as I watercool more for silent computing, but if they perform too...Yeah, I'd be all over that.


Me and Shawnb99 are waiting for more information on it. It's been awhile since we seen new high end radiators.


----------



## gengar

sakete said:


> I think the best setup is to cover your whole roof in radiators and run the water through that. Fanless, and very cool.
> 
> If I ever finish my basement and turn that into my setup, I'll put a couple MORA in the unfinished part and run some long tubing to those, so all the heat stays outside the room. Because my office currently gets HOT!


Roof won't work well in sunlight, plus cleaning issues.

Basement can work but be aware of potential condensation if temp there is below ambient.


----------



## acoustic

How are the Alphacool NexXos with cleanliness? I'm on the fence about going with 2 Aquacomputer Airplex Radical 2/360 or 2 Alphacool UT60s..


----------



## shiokarai

Shawnb99 said:


> Not bad. Dirty. There's a difference. You can't deny they are not dirty.


Can't deny? Man, relax. I'm using 9 HardwareLabs SR-2 in my build and blocs + res are sparkling clean, using only distilled water + mayhems anticorrosive additives + growth inhibitors (forget the actual mayhems name, but they're mayhems ones). Running like that for months. Removed 2080 ti block few weeks ago, was perfectly fine and clean after year+ running without changing anything. Rads cleaned beforehand with mayhems part 1 (for rads), flushed with distilled water and voila! Last time I've checked HardwareLabs rads were praised for being "clean" and now they're "dirty"?


----------



## Keith Myers

chibi said:


> How the heck does the average Broseph/Duddette even go about ultrasonic cleaning rads, lol. I already have your Sig block, now there's another thing to wait for? While you're making blocks, build a time machine too so we never have anymore back orders


Try an engine rebuild shop. Ultrasonic cleaning of heads is a common service. The ultrasonic cleaner tanks are big enough to submerge even a 560 radiator.


----------



## oreonutz

shiokarai said:


> Rads cleaned beforehand with mayhems part 1 (for rads), flushed with distilled water and voila!


Thats what they are talking about, the fact that you HAVE to clean them before hand, because they are so dirty from the factory. If you were reading the thread, this is how we got on the subject.

Every Rad I have ever owned has had to have been cleaned, but apparently the issue here was how we clean them, using the Part 1 From Mayhems, if not Properly flushed from your Rad, can cause the Copper to break down and mess up your Pretty Clean new Block.

Shawn was not saying that after they are cleaned they all the sudden become dirty, he was saying that from the factory they come particularly dirty, as do Rads from most Companies. Apparently, and I didn't know this before reading it today, but apparently that is not True with Aquacomputer Rads. Apparently they come clean from the factory and you can just hook them up to your loop and be off to the races. 

Anyways, @Shawnb99 Is as calm as they come in my experience, I think sometimes reading just doesn't convey emotion, he wasn't getting excited, he was just stating a fact, and I think you came in without reading any of the context and assumed he was blasting on your favorite Rad company, when really he agrees with you.


----------



## ThrashZone

Sir Beregond said:


> So what's the best way for the average Joe to clean rads sufficiently? I agree they tend to be dirty as hell.


Hi,
Mayhems part 1 on rads only
Flush and run part 2 in a separate loop all by them selves... add a filter to catch all the crap


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Mayhems part 1 on rads only
> Flush and run part 2 in a separate loop all by them selves... add a filter to catch all the crap


Where did you get that filter?


----------



## evilbob2200

Optimus WC said:


> We use Nemesis rads, the performance is tops, but theyre dirty on the inside, thus the extra ultrasonic cleaning. We also use a 3ft tall airplex gigant, performance is much less per square inch but it's so massive, it does the job for a completely fanless system


haha wanna offer a radiator cleaning service for people who live in chicago/ northwest indiana? Id gladly drive into teh city to get my rads cleaned like that


----------



## LiquidHaus

acoustic said:


> How are the Alphacool NexXos with cleanliness? I'm on the fence about going with 2 Aquacomputer Airplex Radical 2/360 or 2 Alphacool UT60s..


Alphacool radiators are some of the dirtiest ones on the market. I have dealt with XSPC, Alphacool, HWL, EK, Heatkiller, AC, Phobya, Swiftech, and Corsair.

Phobya's always had flux in them. XSPC's AX series were pretty dirty but discontinued - also their TX's are the best performing thin radiators out there btw. Alphacool had just everything in them. Paint, flux, grime.


----------



## evilbob2200

LiquidHaus said:


> Alphacool radiators are some of the dirtiest ones on the market. I have dealt with XSPC, Alphacool, HWL, EK, Heatkiller, AC, Phobya, Swiftech, and Corsair.
> 
> Phobya's always had flux in them. XSPC's AX series were pretty dirty but discontinued - also their TX's are the best performing thin radiators out there btw. Alphacool had just everything in them. Paint, flux, grime.


what about koolance rads?


----------



## LiquidHaus

evilbob2200 said:


> what about koolance rads?


I haven't dealt with Koolance radiators much personally to claim their cleanliness, however I will easily state that every other type of product I have owned or currently owned by Koolance is absolutely top notch in their quality. Plus they're also US based which is pretty cool.


----------



## Sir Beregond

LiquidHaus said:


> Alphacool radiators are some of the dirtiest ones on the market. I have dealt with XSPC, Alphacool, HWL, EK, Heatkiller, AC, Phobya, Swiftech, and Corsair.
> 
> Phobya's always had flux in them. XSPC's AX series were pretty dirty but discontinued - also their TX's are the best performing thin radiators out there btw. Alphacool had just everything in them. Paint, flux, grime.


While still dirty, I thought my XSPC EX radiators were always pretty clean compared to a lot of pics I have seen posted around from the likes of Alphacool, EK, and recently HWL.


----------



## Sir Beregond

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Mayhems part 1 on rads only
> Flush and run part 2 in a separate loop all by them selves... add a filter to catch all the crap


Right, this is what I would do as well, but I am seeing Optimus say part 1 is hard to flush out, so I am curious what Optimus expects the average joe to do for cleaning.


----------



## evilbob2200

Sir Beregond said:


> Right, this is what I would do as well, but I am seeing Optimus say part 1 is hard to flush out, so I am curious what Optimus expects the average joe to do for cleaning.


hot soapy water should neutralize the acid from part one and not mess up the ph granted this is a suggestion ive seen thrown around on /r/watercooling on reddit so i have no clue if thats true but from what i recall from hs chem it might be true


----------



## Keith Myers

Sir Beregond said:


> While still dirty, I thought my XSPC EX radiators were always pretty clean compared to a lot of pics I have seen posted around from the likes of Alphacool, EK, and recently HWL.


Same for the XSPC RX series. I put boiling distilled water in them when received and shook them vigorously for 15 minutes and then let them sit for another 30 minutes till the water cooled down, then emptied them into a mixing bowl and looked to see what came out. Nothing much pretty much except clean water.


----------



## sakete

The most recent HWL and Alphacool rads I bought were pretty clean. Blitz 1 came out almost perfectly clear (just an ever so slight blue shade), and then after rinsing out with blitz 2 and flushing with distilled, clean. And the filter in my loop hasn't caught anything in a while, though once I get this Optimus block I'll be opening things up again and then I can take a closer look at the filter. I might actually take the filter out of my loop altogether, and only connect it when leak testing with new hardware as I think it severely restricts flow.


----------



## kaydubbed

Optimus got back to me. My 3950x block ships next week.


----------



## ThrashZone

oreonutz said:


> Where did you get that filter?


Hi,
Autozone
Spectre 2369 Premium Clearview Fuel Filter



Sir Beregond said:


> Right, this is what I would do as well, but I am seeing Optimus say part 1 is hard to flush out, so I am curious what Optimus expects the average joe to do for cleaning.


Hi,
Yeah this is not a conventional way to flush though so part 1 or 2 is no problem to get out.
Face it most people don't do anything to clean rads lol they figure it's new and do nothing ek's are pretty filthy too

Most would assemble everything and try to flush out part 2 when we all know not everything comes out air/.. especially rads and even worse multiple rads so this way you can shake/ rotate to your hearts desire when not assembled in a case.
Whether one repeats part 2 on a completely assembled system well I find it unnecessary I clean all blocks by hand after disassembling them even new blocks optimus blocks are dirty as hell too.


----------



## Mroberts95

Hopefully next week I’ll be able to stress test and put my 3090 and Optimus block to the max.


----------



## garyd9

Optimus is starting to sound like EK: It's not our nickel plating - its your radiator (or your coolant, etc.) Will the next step being Optimus denying warrantee claims if your using any non-Optimus products in your loop?

While I don't like EK products (and will never let their coolant anywhere near my loop again) at least they actually have real products to sell and ship. Not just promises.

(The point of this message? The same as my last one: to hopefully make Optimus aware of how they are destroying their own customer base.)


----------



## originxt

No matter the block, still need to mod my side panel to fit them. Never gave thought to having gpu size issues with a case. Wish the 011 dynamic was screw closed and not drop fitted. At least then I can just buy standoffs. Maybe order custom glass and have them drill holes in it, drill holes in case, and have standoffs? Maybe rock the no side panel life? Only need 1cm of extra clearance.



garyd9 said:


> Optimus is starting to sound like EK: It's not our nickel plating - its your radiator (or your coolant, etc.) Will the next step being Optimus denying warrantee claims if your using any non-Optimus products in your loop?
> 
> While I don't like EK products (and will never let their coolant anywhere near my loop again) at least they actually have real products to sell and ship. Not just promises.
> 
> (The point of this message? The same as my last one: to hopefully make Optimus aware of how they are destroying their own customer base.)


Really depends. If Optimus didn't respond correctly by sending replacement coldplates or denying warranty, then I'd agree. But it's to my understanding that they asked for the coldplates to research and sent replacements to people? Was the Optimus nickle plating a widespread issue or just a bad batch?


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, to reiterate: our nickel is super strong and is not flaking. Instead, people are seeing copper from other parts being deposited on the nickel surface. It comes off after scrubbing. We've only seen this in less than a half dozen cases (4 I think).

So the question is where is the copper coming from? That's why we're discussing radiators. Our opinion: everything should come from the manufacturer clean and ready to go. It's pretty crazy that using acids with goggles to pre-clean products is normalized. These items should already be clean. No other products in computers or elsewhere are like this.


----------



## evilbob2200

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, to reiterate: our nickel is super strong and is not flaking. Instead, people are seeing copper from other parts being deposited on the nickel surface. It comes off after scrubbing. We've only seen this in less than a half dozen cases (4 I think).
> 
> So the question is where is the copper coming from? That's why we're discussing radiators. Our opinion: everything should come from the manufacturer clean and ready to go. It's pretty crazy that using acids with goggles to pre-clean products is normalized. These items should already be clean. No other products in computers or elsewhere are like this.
> 
> View attachment 2462714


very true!! we shouldnt have to do all of this! I live by chicago can i pay you to clean my rads with your ultrasonic cleaner?


----------



## Mroberts95

I think things just get blamed from every direction but Optimus earlier posts make sense.


----------



## Optimus WC

evilbob2200 said:


> very true!! we shouldnt have to do all of this! I live by chicago can i pay you to clean my rads with your ultrasonic cleaner?


Alas, this was a one-off test for us, our ultrasonics are now hooked up to custom machines that dunk our parts during manufacturing.

Really, I think people should complain to Hardware labs and others. Ultrasonic cleaners aren't that expensive. They should be able to dip their rads before shipping 

Maybe Performance PCs could offer it as a service.


----------



## Mroberts95

Optimus WC said:


> Alas, this was a one-off test for us, our ultrasonics are now hooked up to custom machines that dunk our parts during manufacturing.
> 
> Really, I think people should complain to Hardware labs and others. Ultrasonic cleaners aren't that expensive. They should be able to dip their rads before shipping
> 
> Maybe Performance PCs could offer it as a service.


Back to GPU,
Did you guys manage a decent overclock with the card samples? And if so are there any temperature benchmarks or will we have to wait for blocks in hand?


----------



## evilbob2200

Optimus WC said:


> Alas, this was a one-off test for us, our ultrasonics are now hooked up to custom machines that dunk our parts during manufacturing.
> 
> Really, I think people should complain to Hardware labs and others. Ultrasonic cleaners aren't that expensive. They should be able to dip their rads before shipping
> 
> Maybe Performance PCs could offer it as a service.


true a 22L cleaner is like less than 250 bucks on amazon hell im tempted to buy one and offer a cleaning service to make some extra side cash haha just not sure what cleaning solution would work best or be the safest


----------



## originxt

@Optimus WC I'm going with distilled water and some additives for my coolant when I do maintenance soon. Which additives are ok with your blocks?


----------



## Optimus WC

originxt said:


> @Optimus WC I'm going with distilled water and some additives for my coolant when I do maintenance soon. Which additives are ok with your blocks?


Really, everything right now. We just don't recommend going crazy with the pre-cleaner acids. Avoid copper sulfate. But the big thing is to check not our hardware but other parts, because those will be the first to have issues. 



Mroberts95 said:


> Back to GPU,
> Did you guys manage a decent overclock with the card samples? And if so are there any temperature benchmarks or will we have to wait for blocks in hand?


Definitely. I don't remember the numbers, but they were incredibly good. Really, Gamers Nexus killed it, has the world's highest room temp H2O score, so that's pretty reassuring. We see a temp delta of 8c over water temp. And it locks there, typically regardless of load.


----------



## Mroberts95

8c over water temp is excellent


----------



## testplsignore

@Optimus WC Do you think the block for the Strix might be able to be thinner than the FTW3 since the Strix doesn't have those tall caps around the core? 
(and hence the block wouldn't need to be as thick to clear them = more material to make the block longer perhaps?)

Little bit concerned about dust building up in that gap between the PCB and acrylic on the FTW block, hoping a thinner / longer block with help with that.


----------



## dwolvin

Dust won't build up in the stagnant areas unless your case is unfiltered and in a shop. Mostly kidding but I've cooled the last three or four cards, and there isn't anything under the blocks when they come off, even around the more open areas like caps.


----------



## evilbob2200

Optimus WC said:


> Alas, this was a one-off test for us, our ultrasonics are now hooked up to custom machines that dunk our parts during manufacturing.
> 
> Really, I think people should complain to Hardware labs and others. Ultrasonic cleaners aren't that expensive. They should be able to dip their rads before shipping
> 
> Maybe Performance PCs could offer it as a service.


what about a tour? lol I honestly would love a tour sometime haha


----------



## shiokarai

This is getting ridiculous... now the new feature of yet to be released rads will be "ultrasonic cleaned by US in Chicago, USA" - that'll be +$200 to your order, sir, but we are the best! C'mon... just focus on releasing the actual products. I know you're trying to "disrupt" the water-cooling niche and get a strong foothold in enthusiast minds but try to just do a good products and not diminish other brands. It sounds like apple: "you're holding your phone wrong" lol


----------



## Optimus WC

testplsignore said:


> @Optimus WC Do you think the block for the Strix might be able to be thinner than the FTW3 since the Strix doesn't have those tall caps around the core?
> (and hence the block wouldn't need to be as thick to clear them = more material to make the block longer perhaps?)
> 
> Little bit concerned about dust building up in that gap between the PCB and acrylic on the FTW block, hoping a thinner / longer block with help with that.


The Strix copper will be a bit thinner because of the flat caps, but not much since the funky inductors ASUS uses are still really tall (thus why on older blocks you'd see a steel plate over the ASUS inductor VRM area to compensate). There are a lot of reasons to have the copper be thicker, from allowing the terminal to screw into the copper (not acrylic) and some other performance reasons. The overall Strix copper area is larger than FTW, so it'll probably be a push in terms of weight and cost. Really, the super thin copper designs are mostly cost-cutting and have lots of problems, mostly in terms of bending from machining and install, which causes bad die contact.

As for dust, interesting question, never seen it ourselves in any of the classic style acrylic blocks (like ours and others) with the acrylic over the PCB. Of course, if your PC is on the ground and the insides look like a post apocalyptic dust wasteland, you prob wont be able to see through the acrylic anyway 



evilbob2200 said:


> what about a tour? lol I honestly would love a tour sometime haha


Maybe later next year, we're not at all set up for that right now, but it's something we definitely want to do. As well as have a little showroom and testing area.


----------



## Mroberts95

So I imagine having 2x 360 or 3x 360 radiator will only affect water temp but the 8c would be across the board regardless of water temp?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Idk "joe" that price seems kind of steep for a gpu block. GPU blocks are disposable not like a cpu block which hold their value better


----------



## straha20

zGunBLADEz said:


> Idk "joe" that price seems kind of steep for a gpu block. GPU blocks are disposable not like a cpu block which hold their value better


That's true in a way, but for a user like myself, I'll almost certainly hold onto my 3080 until at least the 5000 series, so pushing fours years, which makes this block around $50 a year which isn't too bad.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

straha20 said:


> That's true in a way, but for a user like myself, I'll almost certainly hold onto my 3080 until at least the 5000 series, so pushing fours years, which makes this block around $50 a year which isn't too bad.


On pascal i tried a few blocks including ek..
Best block i had on the gpus was the one made from swiftech their cheapest line got 2 of them for $200 .. The best temps in the die guess who was it? Koolance 220 universal gpu block by a whooping 8 to 10c in similar conditions. I aint getting rid of all 3 of them yes i got 3 of them puppy's xD. The ek " universal version" one it just sucks lol. Man i think i have something bad against ek it aint funny.


I have alot of watercooling stuff thursday im buying another phobya rad the 1080 version.. but paying half the price of a 3080 on just a block for cooling it leaves a bad taste on my mouth.

I saw the alpha cool in action and the guy was under 40c @ 1.1v boosting at 2,200 i probably be under 30c under my loop lol


----------



## garyd9

straha20 said:


> That's true in a way, but for a user like myself, I'll almost certainly hold onto my 3080 until at least the 5000 series, so pushing fours years, which makes this block around $50 a year which isn't too bad.


400/4 isn't 50. 

More like $100/year.


----------



## garyd9

Can anyone suggest the best performance/money GPU waterblock block for the 2080 that actually exists for sale? I'm done waiting for Optimus to deliver on their promises.


----------



## Mroberts95

garyd9 said:


> Can anyone suggest the best performance/money GPU waterblock block for the 2080 that actually exists for sale? I'm done waiting for Optimus to deliver on their promises.


Did they ever say a block was coming for the 2080?
I thought it was just the 2080ti and that was it.

Heatkiller is a good bet if you have a reference card etc. EKWB/Alphacool etc might have some options for non reference.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Planning anything for Big Navi blocks when it comes out?


----------



## Optimus WC

Sir Beregond said:


> Planning anything for Big Navi blocks when it comes out?


For sure  AMD, if you're listening, we need an early sample!

Also, we will be releasing the 2080 Ti blocks. Yes, this delay has been insanely annoyingly long. We're upgrading every 2080 Ti preorder to either 3080/3090 blocks (which cost much more) or upgrade to the 2080 Ti with the XL backplate/thermal pad design for free. Or 100% refund. The delay, for those curious, was a constant series of improvements with the 2080 Ti block. It went through sooooo many revisions. To the point where the final design was done at the same time as the 3000 launch. And because so many people wanted more power (i mean, who wouldn't), the ftw3 got priority over everything. Not ideal, of course, but we're working to be the best with production, fulfillment and service in the future


----------



## Sir Beregond

Optimus WC said:


> For sure  AMD, if you're listening, we need an early sample!


Cool, thanks! Not sure what I'll end up getting between 3080 and Big Navi yet til I see it and depending on features/availability, but definitely exploring water block options for both as they become available.

And I am assuming current AM4 block offering will be fine for Zen 3?


----------



## zervun

Just a follow up on my situation -

Been chatting with Optimus back and forth and sent them pictures. I wanted to chat with them prior to posting.

I took the block apart this weekend and was able to scrub all the discoloration away for the most part. I don't believe this was a defect on the Optimus block but probably some junk from something oil/etc likely the radiators. I just used water and a toothbrush - it took a lot of scrubbing and I don't think the toothbrush gets quite down in the groves. There is some trace amount of what looks like copper in the fins probably from the radiators. Overall after talking with Optimus this is probably just superficial, not nickel flaking off of the block, just left over radiator copper gunk in the fins and should not affect performance (I have not seen any degrade). I'm running with Titan V overclocked, PBO on for the threadripper 3760x and under full load doesn't go over about 60c. This is with the 8x ML 140's on the SR2 ~500rpm and with the 8x noctua 200mm on the mora3 @ ~550rpm and both pumps around ~3500rpm in Aquasuite. It is a bit annoying as both pumps are different objects in aquasuite - I would recommend for anyone going with the same 2 pumps to make it much easier for pump curves. I ended up with 2 different pumps because I saw the optimus ones after I got my next ones. My goal for this whole build was a very quiet build.

It does not appear to be any flaking on top of the fins, just junk in the groves. If it was flaking Optimus noted that it would be drastic and should rip off a lot.

I will probably yank it out in the future and am contemplating ordering a jewelry ultrasonic cleaner. Also, Optimus recommended a charcoal toothbrush with fine brushes which probably work way better than my junky ass free one from the dentist gave me.

It looks way worse in the pictures than the naked eye - it seems that the flash from the camera picks up those little copper specs and probably some left over oil gunk from the radiators (white stuff). I couldn't see those just looking at it without the camera

At this point I'm not really worried about it but will probably be cleaning it more in the future (charcoal toothbrush/electrosonic cleaner) and will update at that point. This of course begs the question how the hell do we clean **** out of loops properly prior to using them. Use the mayhems and risk potential damage, or use distilled water and deal with this. I don't put the blame of this on Optimus.

I've never had problems with radiators in the past but it could be I never noticed it due to the blocks fins being a lot more spaced apart. Also this is about 10 years of only using mora3s. This is the first time I've used another brand in the loop (black ice sr2).

For my loop:

Mora3 -> Optimus Res -> Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 -> Next D5 w/ heatkiller Res -> EK Acetal distrubution block -> Bitspower Titan V block -> Back to EK distribution block -> Bitspower Inline fitlter -> back to EK dist block -> Optimus threadripper block -> back to EK distribution block -> Aqauacomputer high flow sensor ->then back to Mora3

Update: Ordered some charcoal brushes and an ultrasonic cleaner - will give it a shot this weekend and report back.

Notes:

Never used any chemicals in the loop just distilled water
Only flushed with distilled water on the radiators - did a couple times, shook it and drained. Didn't really know much coming out
Do have a bitspower inline filter but who knows how affective it is at catching particles - I should have pulled it apart when I cleaned the part but forgot. doubt this would catch any oil from the radiator but would have expected the metal junk
I don't see anything on the bitspower Titan block or the Optimus radiator tornado, but the fins on the bitspower block are a LOT wider than the optimus one.


























Gimp picture of my loop order - I built this with half soft/half hard so that I could swap stuff very easily


----------



## evilbob2200

Sir Beregond said:


> Cool, thanks! Not sure what I'll end up getting between 3080 and Big Navi yet til I see it and depending on features/availability, but definitely exploring water block options for both as they become available.
> 
> And I am assuming current AM4 block offering will be fine for Zen 3?


chiplet layout hasnt changed so yeah it will work for zzen 3 since its still am4.


----------



## Section31

evilbob2200 said:


> chiplet layout hasnt changed so yeah it will work for zzen 3 since its still am4.


Yeah. I think people confuse Zen3 and Zen4, doesn't help AMD keeps confusing them too. That being said, Techn CPU waterblock showed some interesting results. They combined an block the size of an threadripper with optimus micro fins designs. I'm really curious how an threadripper block would perform on AM4 now. Something for optimus to look into for LGA1700/AM5


----------



## Section31

zervun said:


> Just a follow up on my situation -
> 
> Been chatting with Optimus back and forth and sent them pictures. I wanted to chat with them prior to posting.
> 
> I took the block apart this weekend and was able to scrub all the discoloration away for the most part. I don't believe this was a defect on the Optimus block but probably some junk from something oil/etc likely the radiators. I just used water and a toothbrush - it took a lot of scrubbing and I don't think the toothbrush gets quite down in the groves. There is some trace amount of what looks like copper in the fins probably from the radiators. Overall after talking with Optimus this is probably just superficial, not nickel flaking off of the block, just left over radiator copper gunk in the fins and should not affect performance (I have not seen any degrade). I'm running with Titan V overclocked, PBO on for the threadripper 3760x and under full load doesn't go over about 60c. This is with the 8x ML 140's on the SR2 ~500rpm and with the 8x noctua 200mm on the mora3 @ ~550rpm and both pumps around ~3500rpm in Aquasuite. It is a bit annoying as both pumps are different objects in aquasuite - I would recommend for anyone going with the same 2 pumps to make it much easier for pump curves. I ended up with 2 different pumps because I saw the optimus ones after I got my next ones. My goal for this whole build was a very quiet build.
> 
> It does not appear to be any flaking on top of the fins, just junk in the groves. If it was flaking Optimus noted that it would be drastic and should rip off a lot.
> 
> I will probably yank it out in the future and am contemplating ordering a jewelry ultrasonic cleaner. Also, Optimus recommended a charcoal toothbrush with fine brushes which probably work way better than my junky ass free one from the dentist gave me.
> 
> It looks way worse in the pictures than the naked eye - it seems that the flash from the camera picks up those little copper specs and probably some left over oil gunk from the radiators (white stuff). I couldn't see those just looking at it without the camera
> 
> At this point I'm not really worried about it but will probably be cleaning it more in the future (charcoal toothbrush/electrosonic cleaner) and will update at that point. This of course begs the question how the hell do we clean **** out of loops properly prior to using them. Use the mayhems and risk potential damage, or use distilled water and deal with this. I don't put the blame of this on Optimus.
> 
> I've never had problems with radiators in the past but it could be I never noticed it due to the blocks fins being a lot more spaced apart. Also this is about 10 years of only using mora3s. This is the first time I've used another brand in the loop (black ice sr2).
> 
> For my loop:
> 
> Mora3 -> Optimus Res -> Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 -> Next D5 w/ heatkiller Res -> EK Acetal distrubution block -> Bitspower Titan V block -> Back to EK distribution block -> Bitspower Inline fitlter -> back to EK dist block -> Optimus threadripper block -> back to EK distribution block -> Aqauacomputer high flow sensor ->then back to Mora3
> 
> Update: Ordered some charcoal brushes and an ultrasonic cleaner - will give it a shot this weekend and report back.
> 
> Notes:
> 
> Never used any chemicals in the loop just distilled water
> Only flushed with distilled water on the radiators - did a couple times, shook it and drained. Didn't really know much coming out
> Do have a bitspower inline filter but who knows how affective it is at catching particles - I should have pulled it apart when I cleaned the part but forgot. doubt this would catch any oil from the radiator but would have expected the metal junk
> I don't see anything on the bitspower Titan block or the Optimus radiator tornado, but the fins on the bitspower block are a LOT wider than the optimus one.
> 
> View attachment 2462762
> 
> 
> View attachment 2462763
> View attachment 2462764
> 
> 
> Gimp picture of my loop order - I built this with half soft/half hard so that I could swap stuff very easily
> 
> View attachment 2462765


One of my blocks had similar effect as yours but I also didn't notice any performance issues.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Yeah. I think people confuse Zen3 and Zen4, doesn't help AMD keeps confusing them too. That being said, Techn CPU waterblock showed some interesting results. They combined an block the size of an threadripper with optimus micro fins designs. I'm really curious how an threadripper block would perform on AM4 now. Something for optimus to look into for LGA1700/AM5


Hi,
I asked techn about that he didn't respond 
Optimus 2 amd blocks techn 1 
Techn is focused on the two lower dies like it's likely supposed too


----------



## zervun

Section31 said:


> One of my blocks had similar effect as yours but I also didn't notice any performance issues.


Thanks - ya the whole reason I started down this path was for the staining/corrosion looking stuff which I was worried about flacking, but ended up being just some oil/something.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I asked techn about that he didn't respond
> Optimus 2 amd blocks techn 1
> Techn is focused on the two lower dies like it's likely supposed too
> 
> View attachment 2462778


I saw the same reviews you did. The world of CPU waterblock cooling is interesting again and I wonder what the manufacturers will do for AM5/LGA1700.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> I saw the same reviews you did. The world of CPU waterblock cooling is interesting again and I wonder what the manufacturers will do for AM5/LGA1700.


Hi,
Yep little lower


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> For sure  AMD, if you're listening, we need an early sample!
> 
> Also, we will be releasing the 2080 Ti blocks. Yes, this delay has been insanely annoyingly long. We're upgrading every 2080 Ti preorder to either 3080/3090 blocks (which cost much more) or upgrade to the 2080 Ti with the XL backplate/thermal pad design for free. Or 100% refund. The delay, for those curious, was a constant series of improvements with the 2080 Ti block. It went through sooooo many revisions. To the point where the final design was done at the same time as the 3000 launch. And because so many people wanted more power (i mean, who wouldn't), the ftw3 got priority over everything. Not ideal, of course, but we're working to be the best with production, fulfillment and service in the future


You got good base of users here. If one of us manage to get one, I think they would send it over to you.


----------



## asdf893

@Optimus WC thanks for the early sample RGB waterblock!


----------



## Mroberts95

Is that an actual RGB block? or is just something added in?


----------



## originxt

Joking aside, I thought Optimus wasn't about the RGB


----------



## Optimus WC

Nope, that's not a real RGB block from us


----------



## Mroberts95

So you are saying dont put an rgb strip on the optimus ftw 3 block


----------



## asdf893

Optimus WC said:


> Nope, that's not a real RGB block from us


It's okay; we can keep it our little secret.



Mroberts95 said:


> So you are saying dont put an rgb strip on the optimus ftw 3 block


Based on preliminary feedback they might put it on mine only...


----------



## Mroberts95

Ill start a petition for 12v rgb strips included at no cost hahahaha


----------



## asdf893

Mroberts95 said:


> Ill start a petition for 12v rgb strips included at no cost hahahaha


Watch out. You'll get banned from this thread, or something!


----------



## originxt

asdf893 said:


> It's okay; we can keep it our little secret.
> 
> 
> 
> Based on preliminary feedback they might put it on mine only...


There clearly is a market for it though. Although I'm not partial to it, don't see the need for it but I can see the appeal. I say, full unicorn puke or no lights at all.


----------



## Mroberts95

For sure! I know plenty of people who want unicorn vomit lol.


----------



## Mroberts95

Optimus WC said:


> Nope, that's not a real RGB block from us


I got my EKWB Vertical mount for that thick piece of copper I cant wait to get my hands on.


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> Watch out. You'll get banned from this thread, or something!


Whose the actual admin of the this thread lol. It's technically an individual thread that became central hub for all Optimus stuff.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Nope, that's not a real RGB block from us


Curious, if one of us get our hands on an Big Navi, we could send it to you to work on a block for. Bypass asking sample from AMD.


----------



## originxt

Planning on doing a full loop take down and rebuild. So should I be using mayhems cleaning solutions or no? Unsure what the consensus was.


----------



## asdf893

Section31 said:


> Whose the actual admin of the this thread lol. It's technically an individual thread that became central hub for all Optimus stuff.


I thought an overwhelming majority of commenters here despised RGB and the thought of it on an Optimus block. I'm really enjoying the RGB on my limited-edition AMD Foundation CPU RGB Block!


----------



## Mroberts95

Deleted.


----------



## testplsignore

@Optimus WC What do you reckon would be an ETA for when the Strix blocks might go on sale? Are you still waiting on a physical card from ASUS?

Aquacomputer released some renders for their block and it looks like a bit of a letdown, so looks like my foundation block is going to have a matching GPU block after all!

Any early pictures on what the different finishes on the backplates look like? Still haven't decided if I'll run my CPU block with the black or silver hardware yet...


----------



## dwolvin

The best thing about unicorn puke is that you can match whatever color you are stuck with in the room / system. That said, I'm still OK with Optimus staying classy.


----------



## Shawnb99

originxt said:


> There clearly is a market for it though. Although I'm not partial to it, don't see the need for it but I can see the appeal. I say, full unicorn puke or no lights at all.


There might be a market for it but the main problem is it's forced onto everything. IE want the best flow meter from AC you're stuck with RGB. If there even is a non-RGB option it'll be a lesser model. People can have their ugly unicorn puke if they want, just don't force the rest of us to have it as well.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, but as long as you can leave it off it's not much of a deal, the only annoyance is that you are paying for it.


----------



## testplsignore

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep little lower
> View attachment 2462787


Aquacomputer released a bracket that shifts down their CPU block to match the chiplet locations for Ryzen 3000/5000, maybe Optimus could release a similar bracket that does the same?
It would lose the nice symmetrical design, but with better performance?


----------



## originxt

Shawnb99 said:


> There might be a market for it but the main problem is it's forced onto everything. IE want the best flow meter from AC you're stuck with RGB. If there even is a non-RGB option it'll be a lesser model. People can have their ugly unicorn puke if they want, just don't force the rest of us to have it as well.


Very true. It's harder to find things not rgb nowadays. 

Side note, really wish I could snag one of those flow meters. Asked about it but 6 weeks and minimum 30 euros to ship to here makes it kind of iffy.


----------



## Shawnb99

originxt said:


> Very true. It's harder to find things not rgb nowadays.
> 
> Side note, really wish I could snag one of those flow meters. Asked about it but 6 weeks and minimum 30 euros to ship to here makes it kind of iffy.


Yeah the shipping is brutal. And 6 weeks for one? Glad I ordered mine 2 months ago, should be here Monday.


----------



## zervun

originxt said:


> Planning on doing a full loop take down and rebuild. So should I be using mayhems cleaning solutions or no? Unsure what the consensus was.


The consensus is there is no consensus. Optimus doesn't seem to recommend the cleaning solutions but seems ok with biocide+/inhibitor+ when done correctly (make sure your ph levels are correct). If you do use the cleaning kit I would be damn sure to really flush/wash it out.

Due to the nature of the fins being so close as compared to other blocks they seem to trap radiator junk/crap in between the fins. Seems like other waterblocks are trending for tighter fins like TechN so I see this trend continuing.

I think in the future if I need to do a blitz kit clean what I'm going to do is remove the Optimus block and clean it by hand with a charcoal toothbrush or ultrasonic cleaning. I will then take the hoses that go to the CPU block and just connect them together so it closes the loop without the CPU block. Then clean and flush a gazillion times then put back on the Optimus block. I'd recommend having some type of filter in the loop somewhere as well. If I ever do that anyway.


----------



## ThrashZone

zervun said:


> The consensus is there is no consensus. Optimus doesn't seem to recommend the cleaning solutions but seems ok with biocide+/inhibitor+ when done correctly (make sure your ph levels are correct). If you do use the cleaning kit I would be damn sure to really flush/wash it out.
> 
> Due to the nature of the fins being so close as compared to other blocks they seem to trap radiator junk/crap in between the fins. Seems like other waterblocks are trending for tighter fins like TechN so I see this trend continuing.
> 
> I think in the future if I need to do a blitz kit clean what I'm going to do is remove the Optimus block and clean it by hand with a charcoal toothbrush or ultrasonic cleaning. I will then take the hoses that go to the CPU block and just connect them together so it closes the loop without the CPU block. Then clean and flush a gazillion times then put back on the Optimus block. I'd recommend having some type of filter in the loop somewhere as well. If I ever do that anyway.


Hi,
Always a good idea to run a filter during rads cleaning and leak testing after assembly 
These are good to use I posted a couple pages back too 
I don't run all the time though just a couple weeks after filling but I use quick disconnects and it makes it very easy to add or remove.

Spectre 2369 Premium Clearview Fuel Filter


----------



## Avacado

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Always a good idea to run a filter during rads cleaning and leak testing after assembly
> These are good to use I posted a couple pages back too
> I don't run all the time though just a couple weeks after filling but I use quick disconnects and it makes it very easy to add or remove.
> 
> Spectre 2369 Premium Clearview Fuel Filter


Can vouch. Used these based off of Thrash's recommend and they worked amazingly well last clean.


----------



## zervun

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Always a good idea to run a filter during rads cleaning and leak testing after assembly
> These are good to use I posted a couple pages back too
> I don't run all the time though just a couple weeks after filling but I use quick disconnects and it makes it very easy to add or remove.
> 
> Spectre 2369 Premium Clearview Fuel Filter


Ya saw that and good stuff, i will probably go down that route if I ever get around to flushing it with something like blitz.


----------



## ThrashZone

HI,
They are pretty restrictive


----------



## Shawnb99

Or just buy a Ulitube Reservoir from Aquacomputer they have built in filters in them. I'll test and see how restrictive they are when I'm back up and running


----------



## darkangelism

testplsignore said:


> Aquacomputer released a bracket that shifts down their CPU block to match the chiplet locations for Ryzen 3000/5000, maybe Optimus could release a similar bracket that does the same?
> It would lose the nice symmetrical design, but with better performance?
> 
> View attachment 2462858


I am pretty sure the optimus block was designed like this from the start and didn't need to be changed


----------



## Sir Beregond

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Always a good idea to run a filter during rads cleaning and leak testing after assembly
> These are good to use I posted a couple pages back too
> I don't run all the time though just a couple weeks after filling but I use quick disconnects and it makes it very easy to add or remove.
> 
> Spectre 2369 Premium Clearview Fuel Filter


Thanks Thrash, will probably end up doing this when I build a new rig (new rads and such) next year. Filter is a great idea.


----------



## ThrashZone

Sir Beregond said:


> Thanks Thrash, will probably end up doing this when I build a new rig (new rads and such) next year. Filter is a great idea.


Hi,
No problem 
Fluids are never as clean as you'd hope but this cheap item sure gets you there


----------



## dwolvin

Shawnb99 said:


> Or just buy a Ulitube Reservoir from Aquacomputer they have built in filters in them. I'll test and see how restrictive they are when I'm back up and running


Whoa, that's a nice res! It's terrible that I'm only 99% done with my loop and already looking forward to the next rebuild.


----------



## Shawnb99

dwolvin said:


> Whoa, that's a nice res! It's terrible that I'm only 99% done with my loop and already looking forward to the next rebuild.


I'm on my 3rd rebuild in just over a year so not that terrible. I keep telling myself I'm done after this but I know I'll find something else I'll want to upgrade


----------



## LiquidHaus

Let's see some builds you guys! How are you rocking your Optimus blocks?!


----------



## originxt

LiquidHaus said:


> Let's see some builds you guys! How are you rocking your Optimus blocks?!


No one should look at my build lol.

In Jeopardy terms:

I'll take, What is color coordination and aesthetics for $200?
Answer: Not my build.

Yours on the otherhand, look quite nice. Especially on your site as well.


----------



## dwolvin

Ha! I'll post mine in the TT P3 thread, since there are no Optimus blocks yet. I'm waiting for the next motherboard for that - still on the fence between TR and Ryzen9.


----------



## Shawnb99

I'll post mine if I'm ever finished. Just waiting on my distro plates and have to send the pedestal to be painted then I can start the rebuild. I think I'll name this build "Overkill"


----------



## zGunBLADEz

i remember ek complaining at me for using distilled water and i never got those issues.. as a matter of fact i will open optimus v2 to see how it manage since i got it.. i never opened it still kicking those watts ass like aint no business for over a yr now..

all i use is distilled water+killcoils on a big ass loop lol


----------



## Shawnb99

EK likes to blame everything but themselves.


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> EK likes to blame everything but themselves.


Hi,
Watercool says about the same thing "Think Optimus just did too" about biocide additives that it attacks nickel plating
Think it was more pt nuke or what ever the name is instead of mayhems additives but too much in distilled and doubt it matters which product.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

Regarding the nickel, every water cooling coolant/additive is fine to use with our nickel. We haven't found a typical coolant/additive that causes issues.

BUT -- that doesn't mean that the other items in your loop won't have issues. Other nickel that other companies use is electroplated aka cosmetic chrome nickel, which is really weak. So the issues we've seen are other components reacting negatively to acids, ptnuke, copper sulfate, etc. etc. And because our blocks are really clear, it's much easier to see when other component breakdowns happen. 

ACID/PRE CLEANING:

The reason why the typical "clean with Mayhems and flush" doesn't always work is because of CAPILLARY ACTION. 

Look at the block below (not our block). Over time, coolant will be pulled into the island areas. This happens in numerous products, you just don't see this as dramatically as on GPU blocks. 

Meaning, coolant is hiding in there, causing issues. And, plus, the Mayhems and other precleaners can get trapped in there. Radiators have different issues, because the flow rate won't completely flush a radiator of all parts (thus our ultrasonic cleaning example). The acids are so strong, they will continue to eat into metals, especially if they're sucked into cracks because of capillary action. And then you see microscopic bits of copper, zinc, tin, etc enter the loop and react with other metals and cause problems. Yay. 

OUR RECOMMENDATION: Simply take all non-optimus components apart and wash each piece using Dawn or other dish soap. Blast the radiators with as high pressure water as possible, but don't put in chemicals that will continue to cause issues in the long run.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> OUR RECOMMENDATION: Blast the radiators with as high pressure water as possible.


Any recommendations on how a normal person would go about doing that?


----------



## Mroberts95

I’ll post the first part of my Optimus build once I get my water block and gpu back soon “tm” 😂😂

my next build I might grab their res and cpu block to make it all match!
Can’t wait to see what rads they make


----------



## Shawnb99

I'm waiting for the borosilicate glass reservoirs.


----------



## Mroberts95

Is that a stronger type of glass?


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah it's like a hardened glass and it's cheaper then Acrylic


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> Any recommendations on how a normal person would go about doing that?


Really, for our own builds, we're not too crazy about the cleaning, honestly. We want to make sure the rads are flushed, but not acid washed. We then run distilled (if just our products) or a basic coolant.

So we either shake/full/shake etc. Or we hook up a garden hose to a g1/4 fitting and blast away


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> I'm waiting for the borosilicate glass reservoirs.


Yes, we'll definitely do it in the future. Boro glass is waaaay cheaper than our cast acrylic tubes. It's prob more expensive than extruded acrylic but extruded should never be used. 

Glass looks great, but it can't be machined (in any cost effect way), so it presents a different assembly method and we want to make sure the whole res is super strong and industrial strength.


----------



## Mroberts95

Optimus WC said:


> Really, for our own builds, we're not too crazy about the cleaning, honestly. We want to make sure the rads are flushed, but not acid washed. We then run distilled (if just our products) or a basic coolant.
> 
> So we either shake/full/shake etc. Or we hook up a garden hose to a g1/4 fitting and blast away


So you are saying I should just hook up some quick disconnects to my pc and just run a garden hose whenever I use my pc 😂😂 seems like a fun time and cool temps


----------



## Optimus WC

Mroberts95 said:


> So you are saying I should just hook up some quick disconnects to my pc and just run a garden hose whenever I use my pc 😂😂 seems like a fun time and cool temps


That's the pro OC strat right there lol


----------



## Shawnb99

Mroberts95 said:


> So you are saying I should just hook up some quick disconnects to my pc and just run a garden hose whenever I use my pc 😂😂 seems like a fun time and cool temps


Once Optimus makes radiators we can


----------



## Mroberts95

Don’t give me 


Optimus WC said:


> That's the pro OC strat right there lol


How’s this deal, if you send me my block next week I’ll get it all setup and take a video! It may not be pretty but I’ll try it out 😂


----------



## zervun

Shawnb99 said:


> Any recommendations on how a normal person would go about doing that?


Could probably take it outside and hit it with a hose (with a warning below) - however I'll note that at least with mora3 radiators, the actual radiator part is held on by little o-rings on the acetal to radiator mounting block. There is one on each corner with like 4 or 6 o-rings. The rad itself has these little tubes that come out at each corner (I think it's 6). Each tube has a little metal ring welded in that is where the little o-ring sits on. When the acetal corner is pushed it (it has 6 holes in it) it pushes those o-rings in with the metal welded on gasket. It's reaaaaalllly sketchy. I should have taken pictures of my buddy's when we had it apart.

My buddy who bought a mo-ra3 got the EK air-pressure leak testing kit. If you've gotten this you know that the hand pump that comes with it is crap. He hooked up a stand-on-it bike pump and ended up blowing out at least one of those o-rings and even with taking it apart and putting it back together and couldn't get it to not leak again. He wasn't paying close attention to the "safe range" on the meeter but he didn't think he had done more than a few pumps so who knows - he might have had a defective mora3 but it was after the warranty had run out. All the o-rings that mount on the tubes and go inside the acetal looked fine to both him and myself.

I also got the EK leak test kit and used the hand pump fine (didn't go out of the "safe" range) and didn't have any issues.

My black ice SR2 doesn't have any acetal/oring contraption like the mora3 - the in/outlets are built into the metal on the rad so I'm assuming hitting it with the pressure washer might probably be fine.

It is actually one of the puzzling things about the mora3 - it's great quality but why they decided not to weld in inlet/outlet holes and instead use a part that has many different fail points is a wonder - it's like 12 different fail points across it. There still isn't anything that is really comparable to it though. After helping him with his I am utterly paranoid with mine. I have 2x mora3's on two different computers.

I would definitely go for a different comparable one to a mora3 that could fit 4x 200mm fans on it and is decently thick if there was one out there.


----------



## darkangelism

originxt said:


> No one should look at my build lol.
> 
> In Jeopardy terms:
> 
> I'll take, What is color coordination and aesthetics for $200?
> Answer: Not my build.
> 
> Yours on the otherhand, look quite nice. Especially on your site as well.


yeah i don't cable manage


----------



## BMDJag

Optimus WC said:


> Really, for our own builds, we're not too crazy about the cleaning, honestly. We want to make sure the rads are flushed, but not acid washed. We then run distilled (if just our products) or a basic coolant.
> 
> So we either shake/full/shake etc. Or we hook up a garden hose to a g1/4 fitting and blast away


Someone correct me if I am wrong but isn't the pressure from a household tap too much pressure for radiators? Maybe I am wrong about this but if i recall correctly I always read if you do this you don't open up the tap too much.

Thanks


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Problem with mayhems part 1 & 2 is the very poor documented instructions
Bottle instructions mixture are totally different than the white paper
On part 1 that is a large acid difference lol twice as potent than white paper states which is likely what happens to people they read the incorrect bottle.


----------



## darkangelism

NVIDIA allegedly cancels GeForce RTX 3080 20GB and RTX 3070 16GB - VideoCardz.com well i guess no step up for me


----------



## zervun

BMDJag said:


> Someone correct me if I am wrong but isn't the pressure from a household tap too much pressure for radiators? Maybe I am wrong about this but if i recall correctly I always read if you do this you don't open up the tap too much.
> 
> Thanks


House pressure is usually about ~40-45 PSI give or take. Probably fine for some radiators but it would probably blow the o-rings out on a mora3 (see my post above). Probably a non-issues for a fully metal/welded rad.

Edit: Watercool says the mora3 is tested at 5bar (72.x PSI) so thats far above house water pressure. However just note my friends issue above.


----------



## Mroberts95

darkangelism said:


> NVIDIA allegedly cancels GeForce RTX 3080 20GB and RTX 3070 16GB - VideoCardz.com well i guess no step up for me


Always thought that was a rumor to begin with, makes sense with gddr6x shortages


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
AMD got nvidia by the balls


----------



## CluckyTaco

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> AMD got nvidia by the balls


How we wish that'd end up being true. Realistically I believe it's a close shave .


----------



## BMDJag

zervun said:


> House pressure is usually about ~40-45 PSI give or take. Probably fine for some radiators but it would probably blow the o-rings out on a mora3 (see my post above). Probably a non-issues for a fully metal/welded rad.
> 
> Edit: Watercool says the mora3 is tested at 5bar (72.x PSI) so thats far above house water pressure. However just note my friends issue above.


Thanks for the info. Any idea what Hardware Labs radiators are rated for? I was under the impression most radiators are rated for 1 bar. I have a few new Hardware Labs GTS360 radiators that I am going to use for a upcoming build that I have not cleaned out yet.


----------



## darkangelism

Mroberts95 said:


> Always thought that was a rumor to begin with, makes sense with gddr6x shortages


for the 3080 20GB sure, but the 3070 uses normal GDDR6, i think they may have seen leaked numbers from AMD and they can't compete at the price/performance that they were wanting to sell the higher memory variants at. The rumor was $600 for the 3070 16GB and $900 for the 3080 20GB. AMD is possibly releasing a 16GB card for $550 and Nvidia doesn't want to price that low. 

I like competition though should make the next few years have a lot more cards come out, Nvidia might have to not wait 2 years between generations.


----------



## zervun

BMDJag said:


> Thanks for the info. Any idea what Hardware Labs radiators are rated for? I was under the impression most radiators are rated for 1 bar. I have a few new Hardware Labs GTS360 radiators that I am going to use for a upcoming build that I have not cleaned out yet.


Doesn't look like Hardware Labs has any of the PSI/Bar stats on their website. I got the 5bar thing from watercool's website (of course take that with a grain of salt from my friends experience).

With that said Hardwarelabs radiators have a welded inlet/outlet so wouldn't have the issue that the mora3's do with the rings. So it would only be down to pressure within the rad itself which would be all metal. Seems like Optimus uses some HWL rads, and does the hose thingy, so it's probably fine.

I'd get the EK leak kit - blast one of them with garden hose then leak test it. If it looks good do it on the others and make sure to leak test them all.


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> AMD got nvidia by the balls


I'm sure nvidia is enjoying that feeling, unless AMD squeezes too hard, as that is, well, ouchie!


----------



## Sir Beregond

Optimus WC said:


> Really, for our own builds, we're not too crazy about the cleaning, honestly. We want to make sure the rads are flushed, but not acid washed. We then run distilled (if just our products) or a basic coolant.
> 
> So we either shake/full/shake etc. Or we hook up a garden hose to a g1/4 fitting and blast away


In the past I have used a diluted white vinegar solution in the radiators and then flushed.

I live in a condo, no garden hose.


----------



## sakete

Sir Beregond said:


> In the past I have used a diluted white vinegar solution in the radiators and then flushed.
> 
> *I live in a condo, no garden hose.*


You're lacking imagination


----------



## Sir Beregond

sakete said:


> You're lacking imagination


There's no hookup around, I've looked.

I am looking at ideas for the second faucet in the master bathroom though.


----------



## Mroberts95

You could probably get a attachment to your sink and attach a garden hose or some mock up of that.


----------



## asdf893

Shawnb99 said:


> There might be a market for it but the main problem is it's forced onto everything. IE want the best flow meter from AC you're stuck with RGB. If there even is a non-RGB option it'll be a lesser model. People can have their ugly unicorn puke if they want, just don't force the rest of us to have it as well.


It's not that hard to do it subtly... my RGB is on the back of the mounting plate. When it's off it's off and completely discreet. When it's on it's RGB as pukey as you'd want. 

What's this "AC" flow meter?


----------



## LiquidHaus

I also use white vinegar. Place the radiators on the counter, pour vinegar into it until completely full. Let it sit for 30 minutes. Then flush out using running hot tap water in the sink for another 20-30 minutes. Then 4-5 individual flushes with distilled water. Let air dry outside. Radiators are as clean as can be every time using this method.


----------



## asdf893

BMDJag said:


> Thanks for the info. Any idea what Hardware Labs radiators are rated for? I was under the impression most radiators are rated for 1 bar. I have a few new Hardware Labs GTS360 radiators that I am going to use for a upcoming build that I have not cleaned out yet.


how will you clean them?


----------



## asdf893

LiquidHaus said:


> I also use white vinegar. Place the radiators on the counter, pour vinegar into it until completely full. Let it sit for 30 minutes. Then flush out using running hot tap water in the sink for another 20-30 minutes. Then 4-5 individual flushes with distilled water. Let air dry outside. Radiators are as clean as can be every time using this method.


thanks, I'll do this for my GTX560


----------



## taowulf

asdf893 said:


> What's this "AC" flow meter?


Aquacomputer, I am assuming.


----------



## originxt

asdf893 said:


> It's not that hard to do it subtly... my RGB is on the back of the mounting plate. When it's off it's off and completely discreet. When it's on it's RGB as pukey as you'd want.
> 
> What's this "AC" flow meter?








Flow sensor high flow NEXT, G1/4


Flow sensor high flow NEXT, G1/4: Fully integrated sensor for coolant flow, temperature and quality ewuipped with USB interface, RGBpx lighting and OLED display. Flow measurement Coolant flowing through the sensor drives a rotor/impeller, a contactless magnetic sensor system detects the rotation...




shop.aquacomputer.de





This specifically.


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> Flow sensor high flow NEXT, G1/4
> 
> 
> Flow sensor high flow NEXT, G1/4: Fully integrated sensor for coolant flow, temperature and quality ewuipped with USB interface, RGBpx lighting and OLED display. Flow measurement Coolant flowing through the sensor drives a rotor/impeller, a contactless magnetic sensor system detects the rotation...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.aquacomputer.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This specifically.


You can turn off most of aqucomputer RGB. That's what i ended up doing with the D5 Next one.


----------



## originxt

How accurate are AC watercooling periferals? Especially the coolant quality meter because it sounds a bit gimmicky to me? I'm sure I can keep the rgb off, probably zip tie the cables lol. Mostly need it for the flow and hopefully more accurate temperature sensor.


----------



## sakete

AC makes some of the best stuff for watercooling. I have my whole case filled with Aquacomputer gear, such as Aquaero, OCTO, temp sensors, flow meter (high flow, the original), filter, pumps (D5 next). All works really well. 

Nothing beats German engineering, except perhaps when it comes to cars, where the Japanese are overall the best.


----------



## Mroberts95

Aquacomputer octo or Quadro is where it’s at for software, it’s the only thing in have from them but works wonders


----------



## Edge0fsanity

What are the lead times on blocks and 12 inch build your reservoirs? Are these shipping right away or have to be built first? About to start buying wc parts for my new build and want to go with Optimus for a couple things. Would love to buy the ftw3 gpu block as well but I'm not sure I want to deal with competing for a pre order slot.


----------



## sakete

Edge0fsanity said:


> What are the lead times on blocks and 12 inch build your reservoirs? Are these shipping right away or have to be built first? About to start buying wc parts for my new build and want to go with Optimus for a couple things. Would love to buy the ftw3 gpu block as well but I'm not sure I want to deal with competing for a pre order slot.


Best to email Optimus or message Optimus WC. Hard to tell right now how quickly things are shipping. Some people are waiting pretty long for even basic CPU blocks.


----------



## originxt

Edge0fsanity said:


> What are the lead times on blocks and 12 inch build your reservoirs? Are these shipping right away or have to be built first? About to start buying wc parts for my new build and want to go with Optimus for a couple things. Would love to buy the ftw3 gpu block as well but I'm not sure I want to deal with competing for a pre order slot.


They just opened sale only a few days ago (sold out) for their first batch for the ftw3 so might be a cool minute for that. They estimate shipping out at mid Nov so maybe they'll open up a new one after they ship?


----------



## Mroberts95

They said 1-2 weeks for new block orders, so maybe they get x amount done. and then start taking orders for when they finish the first.
I’d say keep an eye out 2 weeks from now


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> AC makes some of the best stuff for watercooling. I have my whole case filled with Aquacomputer gear, such as Aquaero, OCTO, temp sensors, flow meter (high flow, the original), filter, pumps (D5 next). All works really well.
> 
> Nothing beats German engineering, except perhaps when it comes to cars, where the Japanese are overall the best.


I just got the new flow meter in and probably ShawnB99 also. They are really small compared to the old ones.


----------



## oreonutz

Section31 said:


> I just got the new flow meter in and probably ShawnB99 also. They are really small compared to the old ones.


I just found out about them thanks to you guys. Doesn't look like anyone is stocking them in North America yet. Did you guys get them imported from Europe?


----------



## originxt

oreonutz said:


> I just found out about them thanks to you guys. Doesn't look like anyone is stocking them in North America yet. Did you guys get them imported from Europe?


Most likely, they were announced/released in August? I got an email and they said they don't have direct distributors outside Germany, mostly people buying and reselling.


----------



## Section31

Section31 said:


> I just got the new flow meter in and probably ShawnB99 also. They are really small compared to the old ones.


We buy direct from aquacomputer. Please email them and they can arrange dhl express. Much cheaper shipping than with ups. 

Performance Pc’s, Modmymods should be carrying them shortly


----------



## originxt

Section31 said:


> We buy direct from aquacomputer. Please email them and they can arrange dhl express. Much cheaper shipping than with ups.
> 
> Performance Pc’s, Modmymods should be carrying them shortly


Oh they will? Awesome, won't need to order from Germany then lol. How much was the DHL shipping?


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> Oh they will? Awesome, won't need to order from Germany then lol. How much was the DHL shipping?


Best to ask them as each country shipping rate is different.


----------



## Shawnb99

originxt said:


> Oh they will? Awesome, won't need to order from Germany then lol. How much was the DHL shipping?


I ended up paying 50 euros for shipping but then I ended up ordering a whole bunch as well. Since it's limited to DHL Express it's not cheap


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah it's like a hardened glass and it's cheaper then Acrylic


Ermm like the xspc photon one? Have one of those nice top+reservoir by the way


----------



## gengar

Edge0fsanity said:


> What are the lead times on blocks and 12 inch build your reservoirs? Are these shipping right away or have to be built first? About to start buying wc parts for my new build and want to go with Optimus for a couple things. Would love to buy the ftw3 gpu block as well but I'm not sure I want to deal with competing for a pre order slot.


Optimus' quote right now is "at least" 3 weeks for order fulfillment for supposedly "in stock" items, but it could be even longer depending on the item. You'll need to e-mail them to find out. And if you're lucky, they'll respond to your e-mail in less than 3 weeks.


----------



## straha20

So just out of curiosity, how big was the first preorder batch for the 3080/3090 blocks?


----------



## Mroberts95

10 blocks 

Just kidding
I imagine a decent amount because machining all of these cards etc wont be cheap and they need to make profit.


----------



## gengar

Section31 said:


> We buy direct from aquacomputer. Please email them and they can arrange dhl express. Much cheaper shipping than with ups.
> 
> Performance Pc’s, Modmymods should be carrying them shortly


Thanks for the tip, I'd order direct from them if not for the $60 quoted shipping charge. BTW, does DHL charge customs handling fees for your shipments from Aquacomputer? DHL charges me such a fee on some shipments but not others for some reason, even when from the same country.


----------



## Shawnb99

gengar said:


> Thanks for the tip, I'd order direct from them if not for the $60 quoted shipping charge. BTW, does DHL charge customs handling fees for your shipments from Aquacomputer? DHL charges me such a fee on some shipments but not others for some reason, even when from the same country.


I don't think so. Just the normal taxes. Yeah they have done the same for me as well. I'll never understand how brokerage charges are calculated, I think they just make it up


----------



## originxt

Shawnb99 said:


> I ended up paying 50 euros for shipping but then I ended up ordering a whole bunch as well. Since it's limited to DHL Express it's not cheap


Do you plan on using them all or are you willing to sell one?


----------



## Shawnb99

originxt said:


> Do you plan on using them all or are you willing to sell one?


Keeping all 6 Next's. Likely will sell my MCP35X2's at a later date though


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> Keeping all 6 Next's. Likely will sell my MCP35X2's at a later date though


If possible, I call dibs on the MCP35X2's! LOL! @Shawnb99 knows my Money is good! HAHAHA!


----------



## Shawnb99

I'm trying for the magical 3GPM.


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> I'm trying for the magical 3GPM.


Damn, I am running 2 D5s and 1 DDC, and I am BARELY over 1GPM on my restrictive ass setup. Can't even imagine 3GPM!

I am waiting for the inevitable response from someone "But Why Though... Don't you know the slower the Flow Rate, the more time The Rads can Cool The water, Duuuh!" LOL! Followed by the "And the Human Eye can't see more than 5FPS!" LOL!


----------



## Shawnb99

oreonutz said:


> Damn, I am running 2 D5s and 1 DDC, and I am BARELY over 1GPM on my restrictive ass setup. Can't even imagine 3GPM!
> 
> I am waiting for the inevitable response from someone "But Why Though... Don't you know the slower the Flow Rate, the more time The Rads can Cool The water, Duuuh!" LOL! Followed by the "And the Human Eye can't see more than 5FPS!" LOL!


You don't know how many times I've had that argument on Reddit. Also the idiots who think adding 3 more feet of tubing somehow makes their loop cooler.

I wasn't planing 6 pumps, started off with 2 then figured might want another 2 for my 6 radiators, then new distro plate came out and I could fit two of them and each took 2 pumps so that's how I ended up with 6. Not sure if I can even fit the two reservoirs and the dirstro plates yet so may have to downgrade to just 5.  I know it'll be a big loss lol


----------



## asdf893

LOL this is a joke right? 6 pumps?


----------



## Shawnb99

Nope. 6 radiators as well


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Keeping all 6 Next's. Likely will sell my MCP35X2's at a later date though


Lol. Going to be interesting results lol. I only have three D5 Next's (one for storage, one on Mo-Ra3, one Internal Loop). Can't add anymore unless I go the new dual pump top mount on the Mo-Ra3.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Lol. Going to be interesting results lol. I only have three D5 Next's (one for storage, one on Mo-Ra3, one Internal Loop). Can't add anymore unless I go the new dual pump top mount on the Mo-Ra3.


Without the dual Distro plates I couldn't either. I'm looking forward to seeing how I'll incorporate them into my loop. Amazed they managed to fit dual pumps in the flex bay


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Without the dual Distro plates I couldn't either. I'm looking forward to seeing how I'll incorporate them into my loop. Amazed they managed to fit dual pumps in the flex bay


Custom Work + Caselabs flexibility is amazing i will tell you.


----------



## originxt

@Shawnb99 Jesus, you need to upload whenever you finish that monster.


----------



## zervun

Section31 said:


> Custom Work + Caselabs flexibility is amazing i will tell you.


ditto this. After doing my crazy semi-custom caselabs setup this time around I've ran into a few design issues (using mismatched pumps d5 next/optimus, etc, some tube/hose routing). I was really focused on not drilling the case (I drilled tapped 3x 6/32 small holes which is unoticable).

With caselabs you can just literally redo the entire thing in a way different way there is so much room. So sucky they went out of business. Was looking at the caselabs owners threads and the used ones that are popping up here and there are going for a fortune.

I'm on the journey down of 3d printing (just got a Prusa), building a PrintNC for CNC routing to be able to fab some distro plates and custom aluminum case/pump/radiator pieces. Gonna take a ton of time but I don't think I'm ever giving up my case.


----------



## Mroberts95

Any pictures of the finished backplates yet @optimuspc


----------



## Section31

zervun said:


> ditto this. After doing my crazy semi-custom caselabs setup this time around I've ran into a few design issues (using mismatched pumps d5 next/optimus, etc, some tube/hose routing). I was really focused on not drilling the case (I drilled tapped 3x 6/32 small holes which is unoticable).
> 
> With caselabs you can just literally redo the entire thing in a way different way there is so much room. So sucky they went out of business. Was looking at the caselabs owners threads and the used ones that are popping up here and there are going for a fortune.
> 
> I'm on the journey down of 3d printing (just got a Prusa), building a PrintNC for CNC routing to be able to fab some distro plates and custom aluminum case/pump/radiator pieces. Gonna take a ton of time but I don't think I'm ever giving up my case.


It's hard for owners to part away with them unless they need room, cash or going itx for good. Most people elsewhere (not enuthiast like here) would probably keep an PC-011XL over an older caselabs.


----------



## ThrashZone

Mroberts95 said:


> Any pictures of the finished backplates yet @optimuspc


Hi,
Yes look back a page or two.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
If we can customize orders it might help
No fuji pads waste
No backplate at all or thin one sounds like we should just add a freaking water block on it lol


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yes look back a page or two.


Whatchu Talkin Bout Willis? lol!

There was no finished Backplate picture posted by @Optimus WC

If you are talking about this Post 10 Pages back: Optimus Waterblock

That was an old version of the backplate on a 2080ti. We are still waiting for new beauty shots to be posted.



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> If we can customize orders it might help
> No fuji pads waste
> No backplate at all or thin one sounds like we should just add a freaking water block on it lol


I am sure Optimus will release those in due time for those wanting cheaper options. Truth is, right now they know that every one they can produce will be purchased, so it makes sense to meet the demand of the people who won't mind spending the money on a quality product even with all the extra Fujipoly pads if Optimus believes its necessary to squeeze out the last ounce of performance, and then start to offer the cut down options, for the more cost conscious buyers once that demand is met.



Section31 said:


> It's hard for owners to part away with them unless they need room, cash or going itx for good. Most people elsewhere (not enuthiast like here) would probably keep an PC-011XL over an older caselabs.


@Section31 I envy you. I would take a Case Labs Case over an O11D or frankly pretty much any "Modern" case any day of the week. I REALLY REALLY WISH I would have pulled the Trigger on a CaseLabs case when I had the chance, instead of always convincing myself that I would do it later. I would hold onto your case forever. (Wish I could find someone willing to let one go for close to what they paid for it, but I know that probably isn't going to happen...)


----------



## KedarWolf

Too bad it's almost impossible to get the Thermaltake Core X9 now. It mounts the motherboard horizontally, which planning on getting a heavy RTX 3090 with a really heavy Optimus water block, having the card vertical is awesome! It has the best rad capacity of any case I've ever seen and with its setup, if you had a 3D printer or used a 3D printer shop, customization would be very easy with some thoughtful design.

Fan Support
Front:
3 x 120mm
2 x 140mm
2 x 200mm
Top:
8 x 120mm
6 x 140mm
2 x 200mm
Rear:
2 x 120mm or 2 x 140mm
Bottom:
3 x 120mm
Left / Right Side:
4 x 120mm
3 x 140mm

Rad Support
Front:
1 x 120mm or 1 x 240mm or 1 x 360mm
1 x 140mm or 1 x 280mm
Top:
2 x 120mm or 2 x 240mm or 2 x 360mm or 2 x 480mm
2 x 140mm or 2 x 280mm or 2 x 420mm
Rear:
1 x 120mm or or 1 x 140mm
Left / Right Side:
1 x 120mm or 1 x 240mm or 1 x 360mm or 1 x 480mm
1 x 140mm or 1 x 280mm or 1 x 420mm
Bottom:
1 x 120mm or 1 x 240mm or 1 x 360mm or 1 x 480mm
1 x 140mm or 1 x 280mm or 1 x 420mm


----------



## oreonutz

KedarWolf said:


> Too bad it's almost impossible to get the Thermaltake Core X9 now. It mounts the motherboard horizontally, which planning on getting a heavy RTX 3090 with a really heavy Optimus water block, having the card vertical is awesome! It has the best rad capacity of any case I've ever seen and with its setup, if you had a 3D printer or used a 3D printer shop, customization would be very easy with some thoughtful design.
> 
> Fan Support
> Front:
> 3 x 120mm
> 2 x 140mm
> 2 x 200mm
> Top:
> 8 x 120mm
> 6 x 140mm
> 2 x 200mm
> Rear:
> 2 x 120mm or 2 x 140mm
> Bottom:
> 3 x 120mm
> Left / Right Side:
> 4 x 120mm
> 3 x 140mm
> 
> Rad Support
> Front:
> 1 x 120mm or 1 x 240mm or 1 x 360mm
> 1 x 140mm or 1 x 280mm
> Top:
> 2 x 120mm or 2 x 240mm or 2 x 360mm or 2 x 480mm
> 2 x 140mm or 2 x 280mm or 2 x 420mm
> Rear:
> 1 x 120mm or or 1 x 140mm
> Left / Right Side:
> 1 x 120mm or 1 x 240mm or 1 x 360mm or 1 x 480mm
> 1 x 140mm or 1 x 280mm or 1 x 420mm
> Bottom:
> 1 x 120mm or 1 x 240mm or 1 x 360mm or 1 x 480mm
> 1 x 140mm or 1 x 280mm or 1 x 420mm


Its a good case, just cheaply made in some places, and they don't give you enough Radiator mounts to actually populate all those spots. I am still looking for more brackets for mine so I can replace my even older case with it. Hoping to find some extra brackets for it that work, so that I can actually mount my Quad 480 Rads instead of having to go Outside of the case like I am right now with my current case.


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> Whatchu Talkin Bout Willis? lol!
> 
> There was no finished Backplate picture posted by @Optimus WC
> 
> If you are talking about this Post 10 Pages back: Optimus Waterblock
> 
> That was an old version of the backplate on a 2080ti. We are still waiting for new beauty shots to be posted.
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure Optimus will release those in due time for those wanting cheaper options. Truth is, right now they know that every one they can produce will be purchased, so it makes sense to meet the demand of the people who won't mind spending the money on a quality product even with all the extra Fujipoly pads if Optimus believes its necessary to squeeze out the last ounce of performance, and then start to offer the cut down options, for the more cost conscious buyers once that demand is met.
> 
> 
> 
> @Section31 I envy you. I would take a Case Labs Case over an O11D or frankly pretty much any "Modern" case any day of the week. I REALLY REALLY WISH I would have pulled the Trigger on a CaseLabs case when I had the chance, instead of always convincing myself that I would do it later. I would hold onto your case forever. (Wish I could find someone willing to let one go for close to what they paid for it, but I know that probably isn't going to happen...)


The problem about costs is it varies where you are from. If its canada, its 12% sales tax (in bc) plus processing fees. So for me to sell at costs, i got to factor it in. Shipping costs were 100usd too.


----------



## oreonutz

Section31 said:


> The problem about costs is it varies where you are from. If its canada, its 12% sales tax (in bc) plus processing fees. So for me to sell at costs, i got to factor it in. Shipping costs were 100usd too.


I mean that is fair and reasonable. To be honest right now I have blown past my Tech Budget with the number of 3080's I bought and knowing I am probably buying a 5950x and 5900x to play with, so I am not jumping at the opportunity to spend more money as getting money out of clients has been incredibly hard lately. But, if you were looking to get rid of it at some point down the road, shoot me a message, I was speaking more to the people who were selling them at a x2 or more markup.


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> I mean that is fair and reasonable. To be honest right now I have blown past my Tech Budget with the number of 3080's I bought and knowing I am probably buying a 5950x and 5900x to play with, so I am not jumping at the opportunity to spend more money as getting money out of clients has been incredibly hard lately. But, if you were looking to get rid of it at some point down the road, shoot me a message, I was speaking more to the people who were selling them at a x2 or more markup.


Definitely big spending. I am only sticking with one gpu and 5950x (have to reset my 3950x) for new hardware


----------



## LiquidHaus

Our HQ rig used to have a 560mm, 480mm, 420mm, 360mm, and a 240mm radiator packed in it. Downsized the case, now have a 1260mm MoRa3, two 420mm, 240mm and a 120mm. Been wanting to upgrade the pump situation though. Only packing two D5's, but separate loops for GPU/CPU. It's nice having cooling headroom for OCing that's for sure.


----------



## Shawnb99

KedarWolf said:


> Too bad it's almost impossible to get the Thermaltake Core X9 now.


But if you bought one you'd have to live with the fact your gave Thermalfake money and I don't know I could ever look myself in the mirror again if I did. The inner shame and guilt would eat away at me.


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> But if you bought one you'd have to live with the fact your gave Thermalfake money and I don't know I could ever look myself in the mirror again if I did. The inner shame and guilt would eat away at me.


I am still living with that Guilt to this day... Really though, I got my Thermaltake Case for free as a client couldn't pay what they agreed to pay for a job, so I took a bunch of tech for payment, and that case was part of the deal. However, I did buy a Thermaltake Pump, and I QUICKLY regretted that, as the Faulty wiring job they did on it, caused me HOURS of extra Troubleshooting time after a build trying to find out why the pump kept cutting in and out randomly. The shame lives with me to this day...


----------



## Shawnb99

oreonutz said:


> I am still living with that Guilt to this day... Really though, I got my Thermaltake Case for free as a client couldn't pay what they agreed to pay for a job, so I took a bunch of tech for payment, and that case was part of the deal. However, I did buy a Thermaltake Pump, and I QUICKLY regretted that, as the Faulty wiring job they did on it, caused me HOURS of extra Troubleshooting time after a build trying to find out why the pump kept cutting in and out randomly. The shame lives with me to this day...


With Caselabs gone I can understand breaking down and buying one. Not many options in the big cases for multiple radiators. Not unless you want to spend double or more the cost of a Thermaltake.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> With Caselabs gone I can understand breaking down and buying one. Not many options in the big cases for multiple radiators. Not unless you want to spend double or more the cost of a Thermaltake.


Yeah, which is why I'm eyeing a TT case for a few years from now. Like that W200 case, tons of space, and dual chamber. I'd stuff the right side with all the watercooling stuff such as res, pumps, etc, and the left side where the pc hardware is would be all rads and fans for optimum airflow. Right now my res in my Phanteks case blocks a lot of the airflow. And honestly, the build quality of that phanteks case is really flimsy, very thin sheet metal used all around.

My real hope is that Lian Li makes a huge dual chamber watercooling focused case in the next couple years, with lots of room for multiple rads, hard drives, mounting pumps. The 011 XL is nice, but it's still pretty small, and their hard drive setup is terrible as the drives get very hot (close to 60C, when optimum temps for HDDs are around 40C). And well, I'd like a little less glass all over the case.


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> Yeah, which is why I'm eyeing a TT case for a few years from now. Like that W200 case, tons of space, and dual chamber. I'd stuff the right side with all the watercooling stuff such as res, pumps, etc, and the left side where the pc hardware is would be all rads and fans for optimum airflow. Right now my res in my Phanteks case blocks a lot of the airflow. And honestly, the build quality of that phanteks case is really flimsy, very thin sheet metal used all around.
> 
> My real hope is that Lian Li makes a huge dual chamber watercooling focused case in the next couple years, with lots of room for multiple rads, hard drives, mounting pumps. The 011 XL is nice, but it's still pretty small, and their hard drive setup is terrible as the drives get very hot (close to 60C, when optimum temps for HDDs are around 40C). And well, I'd like a little less glass all over the case.


There is Mountain Mods, that is if you want a ugly box. Finding them is what lead me to Caselabs


----------



## zervun

Shawnb99 said:


> There is Mountain Mods, that is if you want a ugly box. Finding them is what lead me to Caselabs


Forgot about them, that was what led me to caselabs as well. They were the only big one back in the "danger den" watercooling days. Not bad but nowhere near the caselabs quality - don't see any mountainmods builds around these days.

My only regret is not ordering a TX10 pedestal. Not the end of the world but I doubt I'll ever find one. At least I got the extended top. I went to order a pedestal about a month after getting my Tx10 and caselabs had shut down. I think I was probably one of the last people to get a TX10.


----------



## Shawnb99

zervun said:


> Forgot about them, that was what led me to caselabs as well. They were the only big one back in the "danger den" watercooling days. Not bad but nowhere near the caselabs quality - don't see any mountainmods builds around these days.
> 
> My only regret is not ordering a TX10 pedestal. Not the end of the world but I doubt I'll ever find one. At least I got the extended top. I went to order a pedestal about a month after getting my Tx10 and caselabs had shut down. I think I was probably one of the last people to get a TX10.


My biggest regret was not grabbing the TX10 and pedestal. I would of went broke trying to fill it though so guess it's good I'm "stuck" with a TH10.


----------



## zervun

Shawnb99 said:


> My biggest regret was not grabbing the TX10 and pedestal. I would of went broke trying to fill it though so guess it's good I'm "stuck" with a TH10.


TH10 is still pretty awesome. I've only got one system in the tx10 so far and it's already making my wallet cry and I still have a lot to go.


----------



## ThrashZone

HI,
I'll likely make my next case maybe out of Cherry


----------



## originxt

Is there anything else worthwhile picking up from AC peripheral wise? If I'm ordering international, might as well make use of it. 

Ordering the Flow Next and already own a Quadro.


----------



## Shawnb99

originxt said:


> Is there anything else worthwhile picking up from AC peripheral wise? If I'm ordering international, might as well make use of it.
> 
> Ordering the Flow Next and already own a Quadro.


Splitty9's if you need fan splitters, Hubby7 for USB splitter, Calitemps are good temp sensors but require a Aquaero, though Flow Next as a temp sensor in it, still good reason to get an Aquero. D5 Next's are nice pumps, Ultitube's are very nice reservoirs.


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> Is there anything else worthwhile picking up from AC peripheral wise? If I'm ordering international, might as well make use of it.
> 
> Ordering the Flow Next and already own a Quadro.


Make sure you get all the accessories you need. They have all the cables, etc. Confirm with Sven what cables you need if you want to connect to the quadro.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> HI,
> I'll likely make my next case maybe out of Cherry


You are following the foot steps of skrupples lol


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Make sure you get all the accessories you need. They have all the cables, etc. Confirm with Sven what cables you need if you want to connect to the quadro.


Also I suggest ordering extra cables as the smaller ones can break easily when cable routing. Or that just could be me.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> You are following the foot steps of skrupples lol


Where is that dude anyway? Normally he's in every thread, and now he's nowhere.


----------



## acoustic

You know, I really wish someone would start a CaseLabs type company back up. There is clearly a market for it. I know they went down due to the tariffs making it too expensive, but there must be an alternative


----------



## taowulf

sakete said:


> Yeah, which is why I'm eyeing a TT case for a few years from now. Like that W200 case, tons of space, and dual chamber. I'd stuff the right side with all the watercooling stuff such as res, pumps, etc, and the left side where the pc hardware is would be all rads and fans for optimum airflow. Right now my res in my Phanteks case blocks a lot of the airflow. And honestly, the build quality of that phanteks case is really flimsy, very thin sheet metal used all around.
> 
> My real hope is that Lian Li makes a huge dual chamber watercooling focused case in the next couple years, with lots of room for multiple rads, hard drives, mounting pumps. The 011 XL is nice, but it's still pretty small, and their hard drive setup is terrible as the drives get very hot (close to 60C, when optimum temps for HDDs are around 40C). And well, I'd like a little less glass all over the case.


Bring back the Lian Li 343B!


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Where is that dude anyway? Normally he's in every thread, and now he's nowhere.


Thats good question. Miss his comments about Optimus lol


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> You know, I really wish someone would start a CaseLabs type company back up. There is clearly a market for it. I know they went down due to the tariffs making it too expensive, but there must be an alternative


It won’t happen in today’s economy. Such an niche company doesn’t make sense unless you can make 50cases a year and sell at like 5000usd per. The issue is covering all that machinery costs and labor more than tarriffs. Also there’s better materials they can use than aluminum. There flexible design is much missed though


----------



## Mroberts95

Yeah too bad, I wouldn’t mind an even bigger lian li case with a ton more room for rads etc


----------



## sakete

Mroberts95 said:


> Yeah too bad, I wouldn’t mind an even bigger lian li case with a ton more room for rads etc


Yeah, same. And less flashy, I don't like that all glass aquarium look. It sits under my desk anyway so I rarely look at it. Just want high build quality and tons of functionality and excellent airflow.


----------



## Mroberts95

Exactly. I wouldn’t even mind the side panel not being glass, just give us lots of room for tons of rads etc and I’ll be happy.

Does anybody know for 2080ti blocks what delta t over water temps average was?

I’ve seen my 2080ti reach 11-13c over water temps before.

And I know Optimus said 8c max along with GN in their tests which is really good


----------



## gengar

sakete said:


> Yeah, same. And less flashy, I don't like that all glass aquarium look. It sits under my desk anyway so I rarely look at it. Just want high build quality and tons of functionality and excellent airflow.


Especially as a long-time Lian-Li fan, I've always thought an all-aluminum O11 without the glass would be amazing.


----------



## originxt

I know Performance PC makes an acrylic front panel with 120mm fan mounts which I guess you can add another rad

Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic Custom Modded Replacement Front Panel with optional fan mounting

Side panel, I wish there were alternatives. Unsure how I'm gonna extend it without it looking like crap/unnatural for a gpu block.


----------



## Mroberts95

Are you trying for a horizontal block?


originxt said:


> I know Performance PC makes an acrylic front panel with 120mm fan mounts which I guess you can add another rad
> 
> Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic Custom Modded Replacement Front Panel with optional fan mounting
> 
> Side panel, I wish there were alternatives. Unsure how I'm gonna extend it without it looking like crap/unnatural for a gpu block.


----------



## originxt

Mroberts95 said:


> Are you trying for a horizontal block?


Yeah, I can't do vertical for a number of reasons. Mostly PCIE slots being blocked.

1. Sound card
2. Wireless card
3. bottom rad and fan.


----------



## Mroberts95

Ah makes sense.

wish there was a case that was wider so you could end up with both.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

lol you guys fighting with big cases and a lot of rad support and alot of fans and what not..

this is my wip found me a Phobya 1080 local for $40 bucks not in bad shape either lol..
going to pair with a 14" car radiator fan from ebay for $20 already have the pwn controller that do 100watts.. i dont even need to have the sucker at full speed just enough so it circulates the cold ambient air thru the fins. Make a stand to put it on a window outside "like an ac" and thats it is over with quick disconnects and the fan will withstand the weather just have to make sure the stand/enclosure covers the fan electronics nothing too fancy.... chicago weather baby will do the rest of the cooling..but i have that taken care off with electronics (i made a dewpoint arduino temp controller relay XD) and it will have his pump+reservoir as well.. so it will turn on and off at dewpoint can even be bypassed.. i just need to make another relay for the inside rad to turn off pump when the outside one turn on.. and change my whole loop liquid into "green coolant" bcuz i dont want it to freeze and it will be outside in cold cold temperatures lol...
Advantages of parallel cooling 


Spoiler


----------



## SHNS0

Would you consider POM and/or full metal blocks for the rest of the lineup?


----------



## Kashtan

Optimus WC said:


> 100% my fault, sorry about the silence 😬


Hi, i tried to purchase coldplate nickel for my Sig2, but me also needed accessories - backplate, fasteners springs rings etc.This is possible?


----------



## ThrashZone

zGunBLADEz said:


> lol you guys fighting with big cases and a lot of rad support and alot of fans and what not..
> 
> this is my wip found me a Phobya 1080 local for $40 bucks not in bad shape either lol..
> going to pair with a 14" car radiator fan from ebay for $20 already have the pwn controller that do 100watts.. i dont even need to have the sucker at full speed just enough so it circulates the cold ambient air thru the fins. Make a stand to put it on a window outside "like an ac" and thats it is over with quick disconnects and the fan will withstand the weather just have to make sure the stand/enclosure covers the fan electronics nothing too fancy.... chicago weather baby will do the rest of the cooling..but i have that taken care off with electronics (i made a dewpoint arduino temp controller relay XD) and it will have his pump+reservoir as well.. so it will turn on and off at dewpoint can even be bypassed.. i just need to make another relay for the inside rad to turn off pump when the outside one turn on.. and change my whole loop liquid into "green coolant" bcuz i dont want it to freeze and it will be outside in cold cold temperatures lol...
> Advantages of parallel cooling
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2463183
> View attachment 2463184


Hi,
Yeah thought about that Which controller


----------



## LiquidHaus

The Thermaltake W100 is an excellent case for housing tons of radiators. Looks just like a Caselabs but isn't so you can chop it up without feeling bad.


----------



## Mroberts95

Man I love the look of heatkiller blocks but I hope I get my card/block back this week.
I plan on buying a heatkiller ftw3
Block as well


----------



## oreonutz

LiquidHaus said:


> The Thermaltake W100 is an excellent case for housing tons of radiators. Looks just like a Caselabs but isn't so you can chop it up without feeling bad.


Wow man. You truly are an artist! Beautiful... Just fricking Beautiful!

Also, I wonder if those Thermalfake Cases are still on the Market? I wouldn't mind giving one a Spin!


----------



## Recipe7

I did some undervolting the past few days and managed to come up with some useful numbers in regards to stability.

My setup is a 9900k running 5ghz at 1.28V and an air cooled 3080 FTW3 running at 100% fan. Ran a lap of Port Royal for all voltages. Ambient is roughly 25C. 
I tested from 0.850v to 0.975v. Stopped at 0.975v due to throttling.

*Stock voltage* *results* at +118% PT, ambient 25C:
1.081v (throttled down to 1.068) 1980core (throttled down to 1950) +0mem 70C (Core boosts to 1980 with updated BIOS at 118% PT)
1.081v (throttled down to 1.043) 2130core (throttled down to 2070) +500 mem 74C

*Undervolting results* at 118% PT, ambient 25C:
0.850v 1950core +500mem 58C
0.875v 1995core +500mem 58C
0.900v 2010core +500mem 59C
0.925v 2015core +500mem 60C
0.950v 2025core +500mem 62C
0.975v 2055core +500mem 68C, drops to 2044core due to throttling


*Bonus:*
Running SOTR at stock 1.081v I was pushing 80C with 1.081v 2130core 500mem.
Running SOTR with 0.900v I was pushing 64C with 2010core and 500mem.

*Bottom line*:

I love the drop in temps for gaming, +15C. I didn't even bother checking the drop in value of FPS because I was so keen on the temps (I'm guessing 4-5fps?)
Looking forward to receiving my *Optimus FTW3 block* to get this sucker under water so I can test 1.0v and above without throttling. I'm hoping to hit 2100core 500mem at 1.025v while keeping the GPU temps in the 40s.


----------



## oreonutz

Recipe7 said:


> I did some undervolting the past few days and managed to come up with some useful numbers in regards to stability.
> 
> My setup is a 9900k running 5ghz at 1.28V and an air cooled 3080 FTW3 running at 100% fan. Ran a lap of Port Royal for all voltages. Ambient is roughly 25C.
> I tested from 0.850v to 0.975v. Stopped at 0.975v due to throttling.
> 
> *Stock voltage* *results* at +118% PT, ambient 25C:
> 1.081v (throttled down to 1.068) 1980core (throttled down to 1950) +0mem 70C (Core boosts to 1980 with updated BIOS at 118% PT)
> 1.081v (throttled down to 1.043) 2130core (throttled down to 2070) +500 mem 74C
> 
> *Undervolting results* at 118% PT, ambient 25C:
> 0.850v 1950core +500mem 58C
> 0.875v 1995core +500mem 58C
> 0.900v 2010core +500mem 59C
> 0.925v 2015core +500mem 60C
> 0.950v 2025core +500mem 62C
> 0.975v 2055core +500mem 68C, drops to 2044core due to throttling
> 
> 
> *Bonus:*
> Running SOTR at stock 1.081v I was pushing 80C with 1.081v 2130core 500mem.
> Running SOTR with 0.900v I was pushing 64C with 2010core and 500mem.
> 
> *Bottom line*:
> 
> I love the drop in temps for gaming, +15C. I didn't even bother checking the drop in value of FPS because I was so keen on the temps (I'm guessing 4-5fps?)
> Looking forward to receiving my *Optimus FTW3 block* to get this sucker under water so I can test 1.0v and above without throttling. I'm hoping to hit 2100core 500mem at 1.025v while keeping the GPU temps in the 40s.


Waiting for the same! My Undervolting numbers were extremely similar, also on air.


----------



## Recipe7

oreonutz said:


> Waiting for the same! My Undervolting numbers were extremely similar, also on air.


And here I thought I was 1 in a million, 🤣.

I do feel that many of the upper tier offerings from the AIBs will provide similar clocks at particular voltages. We really need temps to be in the 40s-50s range for these cards to really be at peak performance.


----------



## sakete

I'd share my results for the XC3, but @#$%$&* Optimus still has my card and isn't being communicative as to an exact ETA of when I'll get back my card + block.


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> Waiting for the same! My Undervolting numbers were extremely similar, also on air.


Curious too. Right now torn between 6900xt and 3080 myself.


----------



## oreonutz

Recipe7 said:


> And here I thought I was 1 in a million, 🤣.
> 
> I do feel that many of the upper tier offerings from the AIBs will provide similar clocks at particular voltages. We really need temps to be in the 40s-50s range for these cards to really be at peak performance.


So so far I have tested a Founders Edition, an MSI Ventus OC, a Gigabyte Gaming OC, and then the Card I kept, the FTW3, all 3080s. For me the biggest difference between all Cards was the Memory Overclocking Potential. My FTW3 can do 1336Mhz on the Memory all day Long with no Fuss no matter how hot it gets, and with a Cold Card I can do about 20 Minutes straight at 1350Mhz, no artifacting or crashing until the Memory has been at around 70c for 15 mins or so. In Stark Contrast all the other cards settled around 1250Mhz on the Memory and couldn't do much more than that without intense artifacting and Crashing. The FE Could push up to 1313Mhz when the card was cold, but after about 2 Port Royal runs it would hard crash the system.

As far as Undervolting though, they actually all impressed me, they aren't quite as good as my FTW3 Sample, but I think I actually got good silicon this time, but on all 3 cards I could hit 1980Mhz easy at .906v, which was just enough to keep under the Power Limit even on the Gigabyte card which had the lowest Power Limit of all 4 (330w). My FTW3 is a better sample then the other 3, but still at .906v I was only able to hit 2025Mhz stable through a SuperPosition 4k Run (Which I like to use when undervolting because hit does a good job of hitting the card with various loads, I find that when I can pass 3 back to back SuperPosition 4k Passes without crashing to desktop or the test failing then usually my Undervolt or OC will remain stable in most games). 2025Mhz at .906v seems to be pretty good, but its really not that much better then 1980Mhz, so I thought all the other samples held up pretty well.

100% Agree to get the most out of these FTW at Ambient, we are going to need blocks so we can keep the Temps between 40 and 50c, with that we should be able to hit some steady consistently high clocks, while still remaining under the 450w Power Limit just by undervolting a bit. Can not WAIT for these blocks to arrive!



sakete said:


> I'd share my results for the XC3, but @#$%$&* Optimus still has my card and isn't being communicative as to an exact ETA of when I'll get back my card + block.


LOL! Well its awesome that you get yourself a free Block. I am sure they will get back to you soon. I get it though, every day without a card that you bought, has got to be a rough one.



Section31 said:


> Curious too. Right now torn between 6900xt and 3080 myself.


Well in a way you are lucky, because you actually are only a week away from that announcement where we get to see AMD's Performance numbers on these new cards, and we get to see if these benchmarks we have all been seeing are actually real, or the Hype Train inflating itself again. If the rumors do end up being true, and these cards kick ass and there is good stock on them, Then you'll end up with a damn good card at a better price, that you can actually buy.

I don't regret for a minute buying my 3080, but I have to admit, if I wasn't able to, I would just be waiting for Big Navi to drop and actually switching to Radeon for my Main Rig for the first time in over 5 years if they actually turn out to be good. I heard they are making sure that there drivers aren't crap this time either so if thats true, then you might have a good option on your hand!


----------



## Mroberts95

I think it’s more we are frustrated/tired of waiting lol. 
I want it now 😂😂

I was told roughly 2 weeks and that I would have my card back latest a few days ago when asked in the middle of the process.
Here we are at 4 weeks later and I only have an estimate for shipping and not a firm eta etc.
I hope we get some good news this week


----------



## LiquidHaus

oreonutz said:


> Wow man. You truly are an artist! Beautiful... Just fricking Beautiful!
> 
> Also, I wonder if those Thermalfake Cases are still on the Market? I wouldn't mind giving one a Spin!


Thanks man. I believe they are! I got this one on release day, so it's been some time. The price also went way up from what they were on release, and I have no idea why. I still don't see them that often.


----------



## Section31

Anyone have what i can do to seperate the fittings. Bitspower, seriously about done with them.


----------



## dwolvin

Allen wrench in the barb, and crescent wrench on the 90 would be my guess.

Oh, wait- is the end that barb is stuck in rotating? You might have to destroy the 90- vice grips on the knurling, or file flat spots to grab it.


----------



## Keith Myers

Small strap wrench? I use a couple of those on astro camera fittings. Won't damage threads or materials.


----------



## gengar

sakete said:


> I'd share my results for the XC3, but @#$%$&* Optimus still has my card and isn't being communicative as to an exact ETA of when I'll get back my card + block.


Completely unsurprising, sadly.


----------



## Recipe7

oreonutz said:


> So so far I have tested a Founders Edition, an MSI Ventus OC, a Gigabyte Gaming OC, and then the Card I kept, the FTW3, all 3080s. For me the biggest difference between all Cards was the Memory Overclocking Potential. My FTW3 can do 1336Mhz on the Memory all day Long with no Fuss no matter how hot it gets, and with a Cold Card I can do about 20 Minutes straight at 1350Mhz, no artifacting or crashing until the Memory has been at around 70c for 15 mins or so. In Stark Contrast all the other cards settled around 1250Mhz on the Memory and couldn't do much more than that without intense artifacting and Crashing. The FE Could push up to 1313Mhz when the card was cold, but after about 2 Port Royal runs it would hard crash the system.
> 
> As far as Undervolting though, they actually all impressed me, they aren't quite as good as my FTW3 Sample, but I think I actually got good silicon this time, but on all 3 cards I could hit 1980Mhz easy at .906v, which was just enough to keep under the Power Limit even on the Gigabyte card which had the lowest Power Limit of all 4 (330w). My FTW3 is a better sample then the other 3, but still at .906v I was only able to hit 2025Mhz stable through a SuperPosition 4k Run (Which I like to use when undervolting because hit does a good job of hitting the card with various loads, I find that when I can pass 3 back to back SuperPosition 4k Passes without crashing to desktop or the test failing then usually my Undervolt or OC will remain stable in most games). 2025Mhz at .906v seems to be pretty good, but its really not that much better then 1980Mhz, so I thought all the other samples held up pretty well.
> 
> 100% Agree to get the most out of these FTW at Ambient, we are going to need blocks so we can keep the Temps between 40 and 50c, with that we should be able to hit some steady consistently high clocks, while still remaining under the 450w Power Limit just by undervolting a bit. Can not WAIT for these blocks to arrive!


you have quite the sample size there, glad the only card I have is one that you chose out of the bunch. 

Linus just posted a video of a 3090 Strix with an EK Block earlier today. He checked gpu temps with a 120, 240, and 360 rad. Temps came back as 66, 48, and 44 respectively. Looks like in our ballpark of temp range (go Dodgers!)


----------



## originxt

Recipe7 said:


> you have quite the sample size there, glad the only card I have is one that you chose out of the bunch.
> 
> Linus just posted a video of a 3090 Strix with an EK Block earlier today. He checked gpu temps with a 120, 240, and 360 rad. Temps came back as 66, 48, and 44 respectively. Looks like in our ballpark of temp range (go Dodgers!)


Curious what ambient was. The strix block was definitely not ready for production. So many issues.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Allen wrench in the barb, and crescent wrench on the 90 would be my guess.
> 
> Oh, wait- is the end that barb is stuck in rotating? You might have to destroy the 90- vice grips on the knurling, or file flat spots to grab it.


Thanks. Its stuck in the rotating portion. Its an dual rotary. I gave up reordered some optimus fittings and different special dual adapter fittings for my setup (dual 90 with g1/4 male) since its just connecting to an next flow/temp sensor and qd4. 

So will move those stuck fittings to external radiator (less visible) - hope no leaks thats all. 

One day will replace the remaining bp stuff but for now reuse how i can. Just encountering more issues with BP, my barrows have had no issues


----------



## originxt

Section31 said:


> Thanks. Its stuck in the rotating portion. Its an dual rotary. I gave up reordered some optimus fittings and different special dual adapter fittings for my setup (dual 90 with g1/4 male) since its just connecting to an next flow/temp sensor and qd4.
> 
> So will move those stuck fittings to external radiator (less visible) - hope no leaks thats all.
> 
> One day will replace the remaining bp stuff but for now reuse how i can. Just encountering more issues with BP, my barrows have had no issues


Wish I could order some compression fittings from optimus but they are oos. Can't see myself doing hard tubing unless I make a build I'm really satisfied with holding onto for a long time. Would like to replace my ek fittings since the white paint looks so damn cheap.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah thought about that Which controller











12V 24V 10A PWM DC Motor Speed Controller Adjustable Speed Regulator Switch | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 12V 24V 10A PWM DC Motor Speed Controller Adjustable Speed Regulator Switch at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



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That lil guy is awesome and cheap too


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> Thanks. Its stuck in the rotating portion. Its an dual rotary. I gave up reordered some optimus fittings and different special dual adapter fittings for my setup (dual 90 with g1/4 male) since its just connecting to an next flow/temp sensor and qd4.
> 
> So will move those stuck fittings to external radiator (less visible) - hope no leaks thats all.
> 
> One day will replace the remaining bp stuff but for now reuse how i can. Just encountering more issues with BP, my barrows have had no issues


Interesting, always thought BP was considered the best for fittings. I have all BP stuff, and have to admit sometimes those fittings are super hard to get loose.


----------



## sakete

gengar said:


> Completely unsurprising, sadly.


Yeah, I don't know why they keep giving these overly optimistic estimates. If something will take a month or two months, just say so. No one will mind and people will be much happier if you then beat that estimate by a week, than if you say next week for 5 weeks straight.

In my work I always underpromise and overdeliver and my (internal) customers are always delighted by it.

Optimus tends to overpromise and underdeliver.


----------



## Mroberts95

^ to the above.

Dont give out two week timeline and have it be 4 weeks later with no firm eta.
Thats all we ask. I really like the look and performance of Optimus but it makes me weary of buying anything once my card is back.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Like the movie money pit they say we'll be done in two weeks over and over funny movie


----------



## sakete

Mroberts95 said:


> ^ to the above.
> 
> Dont give out two week timeline and have it be 4 weeks later with no firm eta.
> Thats all we ask. I really like the look and performance of Optimus but it makes me weary of buying anything once my card is back.


Yes. And them also just not responding to emails is extremely frustrating. I think I'd get fired at my job if I chose to just not answer any emails.


----------



## sakete

Mroberts95 said:


> ^ to the above.
> 
> Dont give out two week timeline and have it be 4 weeks later with no firm eta.
> Thats all we ask. I really like the look and performance of Optimus but it makes me weary of buying anything once my card is back.


Cue Optimus coming in here today with a comment that goes something like this:

"Alright guys, we had some slight delays as we found another way to squeeze out another 0.1% performance so couldn't push things to production just yet. But these blocks will go to the CNC machine by mid-week and will ship out the following week. Trust me when I say the performance will blow your mind, knock your socks off, off the wall type of thing, etc. Bla bla bla"


----------



## Mroberts95

Made me crack up in my chair. Its freezing here so made things a little bit better.

We shall see if we get any emails etc. My Unfinished backplate/block is supposed to go out today or tomorrow but who knows.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mroberts95 said:


> ^ to the above.
> 
> Dont give out two week timeline and have it be 4 weeks later with no firm eta.
> Thats all we ask. I really like the look and performance of Optimus but it makes me weary of buying anything once my card is back.


Don't give out timelines and people will complain which only leads to timelines given out that end up being missed and people then complain. Timelines are only ever an estimate but people seem to think they are set in stone, this is why no one gives timelines anymore.


----------



## Mroberts95

I understand but when they have a $1800 GPU with no collateral on my side its hard to not ask for estimates/timelines etc. Im not trying to rush the product etc but when we get emails once a week with very limited info its hard to not ask for more.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> Don't give out timelines and people will complain which only leads to timelines given out that end up being missed and people then complain. Timelines are only ever an estimate but people seem to think they are set in stone, this is why no one gives timelines anymore.


I disagree. I think it's perfectly fine to give out conservative timelines. The timelines Optimus has been giving were not conservative, but overly optimistic. And also, totally fine to add caveats to the timelines. They don't have to explain every minute detail of their production process, but something like this would have been totally reasonable:

"Design and development of the block will take about 2-3 weeks, after which production can take another 2-4 weeks, depending on how quickly our partners can turn things around (i.e. for nickel plating, anodizing, etc.)."

What they have been telling me from the start was: "Okay, we received your card and have started the design process. Expected to have design ready by end of the week and will performance test over the weekend". Next week I got "Okay, performance testing will start later this week". Same thing the following week. And that just kept dragging on. And here we are, 5 weeks later.

If they would have told me something like the initial statement above, I would have reached out maybe after 3 weeks for the first time, as my expectations would have been totally different. Managing expectations is key, and they're terrible at doing that.


----------



## ThrashZone

HI,
I think I've seen it all now 
Someone complaining about getting a free water block but not fast enough


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> Wish I could order some compression fittings from optimus but they are oos. Can't see myself doing hard tubing unless I make a build I'm really satisfied with holding onto for a long time. Would like to replace my ek fittings since the white paint looks so damn cheap.


I ordered from ppcs. Only the ht metric you got to contact them about.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> HI,
> I think I've seen it all now
> Someone complaining about getting a free water block but not fast enough


Well its literally the period of waiting lol. If not for GPU then its for waterblocks. Some of these blocks aren’t ready for release, etc.


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> HI,
> I think I've seen it all now
> Someone complaining about getting a free water block but not fast enough


It's not about the free waterblock. They still have my $900 video card as well.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> It's not about the free waterblock. They still have my $900 video card as well.


Hi,
If it weren't about the free block why send the gpu to them lol


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> If it weren't about the free block why send the gpu to them lol


The only thing I'm complaining about is the lack of good communication  I don't mind the wait as I don't have anything currently I need this video card for, as I'm waiting for Cyberpunk to come out. But I would have really appreciated some better communication so I'm not left guessing what is going to happen.


----------



## gengar

ThrashZone said:


> HI,
> I think I've seen it all now
> Someone complaining about getting a free water block but not fast enough


This is an awful take - it's not a "free" water block. It's a water block in exchange for the loan of a video card, which apparently has not been managed to the loanees' expectations based on the initial loan terms.

Even from the most selfish, self-serving perspective that you could take, the fact that Optimus is engaging in these practices will result in future potential loaners being wary of loaning cards to Optimus. It's a losing proposition for everybody. In much the same way as when people have been placing orders and gotten no follow-up for weeks, those customers as well as potential customers reading those experiences are going to be wary of spending money on Optimus products. Sadly, the people at Optimus don't seem to be able to grasp this fundamental concept.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Communication has always sucked so nothing new on that issue
You forget the entire 20 series nonsense that never materialized from day one lol 

Only thing missing on 30 series is new driver bugs so just enjoy knowing those should be over by the time you get your block and card back


----------



## Shawnb99

People sometimes forget there's a pandemic on and CS might be short staffed and or overwhelmed by everyone demanding help NOW. These are not normal times


----------



## Sir Beregond

Anyone remember the Star Trek TNG episode with Scotty and Geordi? It's simple, you have to give very conservative estimates and then when you come in ahead of schedule it looks great.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> People sometimes forget there's a pandemic on and CS might be short staffed and or overwhelmed by everyone demanding help NOW. These are not normal times


True. But then they should put a banner on their website that says orders are typically delayed by 3 weeks. And their email system should send an auto-reply to every email they receive that states that they're understaffed and email responses can take up to a week, or whatever. Again, good communication solves a lot. All we get is crickets.

Any issues they have can be solved by good communication. And this is very easy technology to implement.


----------



## sakete

Sir Beregond said:


> Anyone remember the Star Trek TNG episode with Scotty and Geordi? It's simple, you have to give very conservative estimates and then when you come in ahead of schedule it looks great.


I do that all the time. When my bosses asks me for something, I say I can get it to them in 2 days, and typically have it over the next day. Always appreciated


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> People sometimes forget there's a pandemic on and CS might be short staffed and or overwhelmed by everyone demanding help NOW. These are not normal times


Hi,
Yep missing the obvious is stunning 

Another fun fact watercool is only making one block for evga ftw3 lol


----------



## gengar

Shawnb99 said:


> People sometimes forget there's a pandemic on and CS might be short staffed and or overwhelmed by everyone demanding help NOW. These are not normal times


Then they need to say so, simple as that. The Optimus website currently has a blurb about vague "delays" but back when I placed my order it was the old blurb about COVID-19 issues a while ago but everything being back to "normal" (although I suppose what constitues "normal" at Optimus is apparently up for debate here). I shouldn't have to wait weeks to get an e-mail stating that my order of a supposedly in-stock item is going to take weeks to fulfill. If the order fulfillment delay is currently at least 3 weeks, they need to state that on the website. As others have said - it's about properly managing expectations.


----------



## Shawnb99

gengar said:


> Then they need to say so, simple as that. The Optimus website currently has a blurb about vague "delays" but back when I placed my order it was the old blurb about COVID-19 issues a while ago but everything being back to "normal" (although I suppose what constitues "normal" at Optimus is apparently up for debate here). I shouldn't have to wait weeks to get an e-mail stating that my order of a supposedly in-stock item is going to take weeks to fulfill. If the order fulfillment delay is currently at least 3 weeks, they need to state that on the website. As others have said - it's about properly managing expectations.


Everything is back to normal??? Umm COVID-19 hasn't gone anywhere. Those issues didn't disappear


----------



## LiquidHaus

Hey guys.

I've been reading these posts about the long lead times. Manufacturing is hard. Especially right now. I have quite a few years of experience dealing with lead times on engineering and manufacturing. I can understand the frustration to those who have sent in their own property to help Optimus out with development, however it must be expected that delays are inevitable. Things happen. For instance, Linus was sent an EK block for the Strix 3000 cards. The EK block design was off. That doesn't look well for them. Even if Linus would say "oh it's still in development that's why" - it doesn't matter, because they committed to that design flaw enough to take it to manufacture. And they were wrong. It takes TIME to get things right. I would remain as patient as can be. You'll be getting your card back, along with a free block, as well as the good feeling that you helped them out with developing a product without actually having to do anything other than sending something in to them.


----------



## gengar

Shawnb99 said:


> Everything is back to normal??? Umm COVID-19 hasn't gone anywhere. Those issues didn't disappear


Their words, not mine. Don't put Optimus' statements on me. Your response here only serves to justify my position.


----------



## ThrashZone

gengar said:


> Their words, not mine. Don't put Optimus' statements on me. Your response here only serves to justify my position.


Hi,
There is something very wrong with you.


----------



## gengar

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> There is something very wrong with you.


If the expectation that a business should state when they will have a minimum 3 week delay on fulfilling "in-stock" items means there's something very wrong with somebody, then I suppose there's something very wrong with pretty much everybody.


----------



## ThrashZone

gengar said:


> If the expectation that a business should state when they will have a minimum 3 week delay on fulfilling "in-stock" items means there's something very wrong with somebody, then I suppose there's something very wrong with pretty much everybody.


Hi,
I'll have to look back and see if all your 38 posts are about complaining lol


----------



## gengar

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I'll have to look back and see if all your 38 posts are about complaining lol


Suggest actually doing so before having to wipe egg off your face.


----------



## ThrashZone

gengar said:


> Suggest actually doing so before having to wipe egg off your face.


Hi,
I've got no egg but you sure are butt hurt still from a week ago after you canceled an order 
So get over it already.


----------



## gengar

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I've got no egg but you sure are butt hurt still from a week ago after you canceled an order
> So get over it already.


Very happy with the competitor products I bought instead, so no complaints here (it says a lot that I ordered and received them before Optimus even followed up with me). Suggest ignoring my posts if you can't handle criticism of Optimus and have to respond so personally.

Also, I think it's actually multiple eggs at this point since here's a post of mine from three days ago that you liked: Samsung 850 Pro 256: died without any warning Better go unlike it since there's something so very wrong with me!


----------



## ThrashZone

gengar said:


> Very happy with the competitor products I bought instead, so no complaints here (it says a lot that I received them before Optimus followed up with me). Suggest ignoring my posts if you can't handle criticism of Optimus and have to respond so personally.
> 
> Also, I think it's actually multiple eggs at this point since here's a post of mine from three days ago that you liked: Samsung 850 Pro 256: died without any warning Better go unlike it since there's something so very wrong with me!


Hi,
You've done nothing but complain here so again get over it and move along.


----------



## sakete

LiquidHaus said:


> Hey guys.
> 
> I've been reading these posts about the long lead times. Manufacturing is hard. Especially right now. I have quite a few years of experience dealing with lead times on engineering and manufacturing. I can understand the frustration to those who have sent in their own property to help Optimus out with development, however it must be expected that delays are inevitable. Things happen. For instance, Linus was sent an EK block for the Strix 3000 cards. The EK block design was off. That doesn't look well for them. Even if Linus would say "oh it's still in development that's why" - it doesn't matter, because they committed to that design flaw enough to take it to manufacture. And they were wrong. It takes TIME to get things right. I would remain as patient as can be. You'll be getting your card back, along with a free block, as well as the good feeling that you helped them out with developing a product without actually having to do anything other than sending something in to them.


Yeah, I get what you're saying, and I don't think anyone here is complaining about the fact that it's taking long (myself included). I think people are frustrated at the lack of communication and timelines that are overly optimistic. Optimus isn't doing a great job at managing expectations, and that's the core issue here. It's basic customer service, and there are very easy ways to manage that in the current environment:


Provide conservative estimates to customers when they order something that's in stock. If on average it's now taking them 3 weeks to ship something out, then say it can take up to 4 weeks to process an order. People that can wait for that will buy and they'll wait as that expectation has been set.
For people that sent in their card for this new block design, just say it can take 1-2 months for them to have their card + block back in hand, and that will be totally fine. People will wait patiently and not complain as again, that expectation has been set and managed.
If you're unable to respond to email inquiries from customers in a timely manner (< 1 business day), then set up a ticket tracking system that sends an automated reply to every email stating that it can take up to a week (or however long it might take) to receive a response. Or just setup an automatic Auto-reply on your email server (they all have that functionality). People might not like it, but the expectation has been managed and they'll wait. (as it is now, you send an email and it disappears into a black hole, and only sometimes get a response).

There, free advice and all pretty easy to implement to start giving better customer service.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> Yeah, I get what you're saying, and I don't think anyone here is complaining about the fact that it's taking long (myself included). I think people are frustrated at the lack of communication and timelines that are overly optimistic. Optimus isn't doing a great job at managing expectations, and that's the core issue here. It's basic customer service, and there are very easy ways to manage that in the current environment:
> 
> 
> Provide conservative estimates to customers when they order something that's in stock. If on average it's now taking them 3 weeks to ship something out, then say it can take up to 4 weeks to process an order. People that can wait for that will buy and they'll wait as that expectation has been set.
> For people that sent in their card for this new block design, just say it can take 1-2 months for them to have their card + block back in hand, and that will be totally fine. People will wait patiently and not complain as again, that expectation has been set and managed.
> If you're unable to respond to email inquiries from customers in a timely manner (< 1 business day), then set up a ticket tracking system that sends an automated reply to every email stating that it can take up to a week (or however long it might take) to receive a response. Or just setup an automatic Auto-reply on your email server (they all have that functionality). People might not like it, but the expectation has been managed and they'll wait. (as it is now, you send an email and it disappears into a black hole, and only sometimes get a response).
> There, free advice and all pretty easy to implement to start giving better customer service.


Hi,
Problem is you're not new here and you've known this was an issue for a long long time but you did it anyway.


----------



## asdf893

Wow, ThrashZone really policing the complainers here.


----------



## ThrashZone

asdf893 said:


> Wow, ThrashZone really policing the complainers here.


Hi,
I believe it's silly to keep complaining about a problem that has been going on for most of 2020 lol


----------



## Mroberts95

Lets just stop arguing and wait it out even longer


----------



## Thebc2

Soooo back on the PCIE vertical mount discussion. I have been looking at a few different vertical mounts over the last few days and ended up pulling the trigger on the new adjustable coolermaster model. 

My short list:

EK Vertical Mount in “shifted” configuration - not available yet

Coolermaster Adjustable mount

Cablemod kit

My main requirements werre around fitment in a reverse atx case (Caselabs M8).

I will try to test the vertical mount on air when it arrives to see how much faith I have in it with the heavier waterblock and report back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Problem is you're not new here and you've known this was an issue for a long long time but you did it anyway.


Well, when I ordered my AM4 block back in March, it shipped out next day. And email communication back then was swift as well, same day replies to questions etc. Yes, COVID has ruined pretty much everything, and I understand that.

When I was first in contact with Optimus about sending in my 3080 XC3 card back in September, communication was pretty swift as well. And I know that at some point the guy I was mainly in touch with had some family stuff come up, which is understandable. But purely from a business continuity perspective, communication management should then have been passed on to someone else, even if it was something as basic as an Out of Office reply pointing people to someone else at Optimus. And then the past 2-3 weeks they've become really flaky again, only responding to emails after multiple follow-ups from me. And I've been copying the main Optimus email address + another one from a guy who answered a couple of my emails back in March (so my emails are arriving in at least 3 inboxes), and well, no one else is stepping in to respond.

In their marketing Optimus claims to be part of (or some sort of spin-off of) a larger corporation/conglomerate that's been around for decades. So if that's true, I don't understand why they don't have these kinds of basic processes in place to manage customer service. In today's world, companies can be ruined by bad customer service, unless they have a monopoly (e.g. Comcast). They make great products or I probably wouldn't have even bothered, and I like buying local and supporting an American company. But I'd advise them to re-evaluate their approach to customer service.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
A lot of 38 post newbie complainers
I'll go out on a limb here and say reddit is closed lol


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> A lot of 38 post newbie complainers
> I'll go out on a limb here and say reddit is closed lol


Ehh, that's not fair. There was a day when you were also a 38 post newbie  Everyone has to start somewhere.


----------



## Mroberts95

Nah reddit isnt closed. Besides emails this is the only other place that Optimus responds more than every 7-10 days.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> Ehh, that's not fair. There was a day when you were also a 38 post newbie  Everyone has to start somewhere.


Hi,
Yeah but I'm having Turtle Rig flash backs man lol


----------



## sakete

Anyway, the point is, I'd really like to start using that 3080. How else am I going to play Solitaire at 144fps Gsync?


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> Anyway, the point is, I'd really like to start using that 3080. How else am I going to play Solitaire at 144fps Gsync?


Hi,
lol 
Watercool doesn't have anything and only making ftw3 blocks not the SC3 at all or any asus cards not that I'd ever buy a asus card

Kind of lucky if optimus is actually doing special orders nobody else is that I've noticed.


----------



## Mroberts95

Watercool is doing xc3/ftw3 for evga.

you can pre order their xc3 blocks now


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah but I'm having Turtle Rig flash backs man lol


Now now, don't make fun of turtle rig. Remember, he got his 10980xe from his hookup from intel. Unsure why he didn't ask that guy in the first place instead of complaining for weeks/months on end for not getting one on release day.


----------



## chuggz

Section31 said:


> Anyone have what i can do to seperate the fittings. Bitspower, seriously about done with them.


Dumb idea maybe, have you tried tightening it just barely before trying to loosen them again? A plumber came over to deal with a leaky fitting and he said the one trick no one tries with old rusted out things is to tighten it to break the rust/bonding/whatever and then backing it out again. The threads 'want' to tighten so it's easier to give it a crack that way than to force everything to release going backwards.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Now now, don't make fun of turtle rig. Remember, he got his 10980xe from his hookup from intel. Unsure why he didn't ask that guy in the first place instead of complaining for weeks/months on end for not getting one on release day.


Hi,
yeah I passed on a 10980xe last week for 800.us lol


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> yeah I passed on a 10980xe last week for 800.us lol


I still can't mount the sigv2 to my 10980xe well enough, I have pretty wide temperatures between cores. One day, I'm gonna run a stress test and just keep tweaking mounting screws until core to core deltas become better lol.


----------



## Mroberts95

Thebc2 said:


> Soooo back on the PCIE vertical mount discussion. I have been looking at a few different vertical mounts over the last few days and ended up pulling the trigger on the new adjustable coolermaster model.
> 
> My short list:
> 
> EK Vertical Mount in “shifted” configuration - not available yet
> 
> Coolermaster Adjustable mount
> 
> Cablemod kit
> 
> My main requirements werre around fitment in a reverse atx case (Caselabs M8).
> 
> I will try to test the vertical mount on air when it arrives to see how much faith I have in it with the heavier waterblock and report back.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I ended up with the EKWB Vertical Mount. Worked really good for my 2080ti HC FTW3 so will be interested to see how it works for the Optimus Block


----------



## sakete

Mroberts95 said:


> I ended up with the EKWB Vertical Mount. Worked really good for my 2080ti HC FTW3 so will be interested to see how it works for the Optimus Block


Does it seem sturdy? I'm tempted to order a Phanteks vertical mount bracket for my Phanteks case, as I'm not sure that even with support brackets there will be enough support to mount the 3080 + Optimus block horizontally (it's a heavy beast!). But reading some comments the metal used on the Phanteks bracket is pretty thin, so not sure how well that will hold 3+ lbs.


----------



## Mroberts95

sakete said:


> Does it seem sturdy? I'm tempted to order a Phanteks vertical mount bracket for my Phanteks case, as I'm not sure that even with support brackets there will be enough support to mount the 3080 + Optimus block horizontally (it's a heavy beast!). But reading some comments the metal used on the Phanteks bracket is pretty thin, so not sure how well that will hold 3+ lbs.


I wouldnt try and vertical mount Optimus with that mount.
There are no motherboard standoffs and its pretty flimsy. I switched that out for the EKWB one.


----------



## sakete

Mroberts95 said:


> I wouldnt try and vertical mount Optimus with that mount.
> There are no motherboard standoffs and its pretty flimsy. I switched that out for the EKWB one.


Will it matter that all these mounts only come with PCI-E 3.0 cables? My X570 mobo is PCI-E 4.0. I guess it could limit bandwidth, and I don't think 3.0 really affects the 3080, but why bother limiting it. So that would be a mount + separate cable.

Edit: Actually, mounting using mobo standoffs will not work in my situation. I have a AC Hubby mounted to the bottom right standoffs on my mobo to give me more internal USB ports for all the Aquacomputer stuff I have, which would then get in the way of the EKWB mounting mechanism.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> I still can't mount the sigv2 to my 10980xe well enough, I have pretty wide temperatures between cores. One day, I'm gonna run a stress test and just keep tweaking mounting screws until core to core deltas become better lol.


HI,
SigV2 has too much bow in it for 10 series they tested it on 79 series not even 99 series
You'd have to lap the inside part that creates the bow like I did or trade someone for a optimus foundation it has less bow probably fit better out the box I know mine did on 9940x.


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> HI,
> SigV2 has too much bow in it for 10 series they tested it on 79 series not even 99 series
> You'd have to lap the inside part that creates the bow like I did or trade someone for a optimus foundation it has less bow probably fit better out the box I know mine did on 9940x.


A while back they offered to send me a flat version in this topic, I wonder if that offer is still good.


----------



## Mroberts95

I dont think there are any vertical mounts that offer 4.0 PCIE, at least the last time I looked.
That could have changed. I know there are PCIE 4.0 Riser cables but seems to be hit or miss.


----------



## sakete

Mroberts95 said:


> I dont think there are any vertical mounts that offer 4.0 PCIE, at least the last time I looked.
> That could have changed. I know there are PCIE 4.0 Riser cables but seems to be hit or miss.


Hmmm, I'll just try horizontal mount before I go spending money on brackets and cables and stuff. I never look at my case, so it's definitely not for looks I'd be doing it


----------



## Mroberts95

Yeah I am not sure which route I will go. I have a horizontal bracket to help as well. If its too heavy for vertical Ill go horizontal. Not a big deal.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> A while back they offered to send me a flat version in this topic, I wonder if that offer is still good.


Hi,
Nobody has actually put something straight across a 10980xe to see what type of bow the chip has on it.
Sure would be nice to see one
Not sure a flat version would be good or not I doubt the 10980xe is flat although the 10900k is darn near flat but foundation works great on it but 10900k is a smaller chip.


----------



## Thebc2

Mroberts95 said:


> I wouldnt try and vertical mount Optimus with that mount.
> There are no motherboard standoffs and its pretty flimsy. I switched that out for the EKWB one.


The EKWB "shifted" model doesn't appear to be out yet, but that one appealed to me as well. The only model I could find of their mount is made for cases without PCI slot dividers, if you have dividers need to wait on the "shifted" model.


----------



## oreonutz

Wow... I was actually surprised with how on-topic this thread has been since my return, and then this morning happened... SMH.

Hey @Optimus WC Do you have any Beauty shots for us yet by chance? I feel like a Junkie waiting for the fiend next to me to pass the goods, LOL! I don't know how much longer I can wait! 

Please sir, ju..ju..just a Picture or 2? LOL!




Recipe7 said:


> you have quite the sample size there, glad the only card I have is one that you chose out of the bunch.
> 
> Linus just posted a video of a 3090 Strix with an EK Block earlier today. He checked gpu temps with a 120, 240, and 360 rad. Temps came back as 66, 48, and 44 respectively. Looks like in our ballpark of temp range (go Dodgers!)


Yeah I saw that video a few days ago (Floatplane OG) and I couldn't believe EK Rushed out the Block so fast that they didn't even test fit it. I know there original designs are usually from Scanned 3d Models, but they must have rushed Linus the block before they even received their testing sample.

Anyways, the Optimus Block is likely going to be as good as it gets, I know I can't wait for mine. It was fun testing all the cards, so far it seems to me that OCing the Memory is what is going to give you the most benefit this generation, so having that nice thick backplate on the back to take care of that flip chip heat on the PCB, should help even more. I am wondering if that will be enough to allow me to hold 1350Mhz Steady, if so that will be a nice boost over stock. I also have Side Intake fans in my case, so that should help in disipating the heat of the back plate.

I am interesting to see what you and other FTW3 owners are able to hold Steady for Memory.


----------



## Mroberts95

Once my card returns I will be able to let you know. I didn’t even install in my pc before sending to optimus


----------



## agentdark45

sakete said:


> Hmmm, I'll just try horizontal mount before I go spending money on brackets and cables and stuff. I never look at my case, so it's definitely not for looks I'd be doing it


I scoured the net for beefy PCI-E 4.0 compatible vertical mounts with no luck, so I'm pretty set on horizontally mounting my 3090.

I've acquired this: https://www.formulamod.com/barrowch...aphics-card-partner-gpu-holders-p1798734.html which should hopefully give me enough support to not have the card destroy my motherboard.

I've also got an Asus Strix 2080ti (EK blocked) that I'll need to somehow plumb into the loop (CGI rendering so not fussed about Nvlink, I can harness the power of both cards).


----------



## oreonutz

Mroberts95 said:


> Once my card returns I will be able to let you know. I didn’t even install in my pc before sending to optimus


I look forward to it! (Hopefully our blocks will be shipped out either at the same time your card returns to you, or shortly thereafter) Covid is obviously a thing though, so I have to do my best to calm down my inner kid and realize it could be a bit of a wait.


----------



## Mroberts95

I hope so too, I would hate for that mid nov to just go wayside and be months down the road. 

But I’ll be hoping for some good news this week. I had an estimate of early this week so we shall see if that holds up still.

I ended up selling my 2080ti HC for a good price so I’m a bit bummed it hasn’t arrived yet but what’s another week or two in the long run, as long as it’s before cyber punk then I’m all good.

Once that arrives if no card all hell breaks loose 😂😂


----------



## oreonutz

agentdark45 said:


> I scoured the net for beefy PCI-E 4.0 compatible vertical mounts with no luck, so I'm pretty set on horizontally mounting my 3090.
> 
> I've acquired this: Barrowch FRTEA-01, Aluminum Alloy Discrete Graphics Card Adjustable Bracket, Graphics Card Partner, GPU Holders, which should hopefully give me enough support to not have the card destroy my motherboard.
> 
> I've also got an Asus Strix 2080ti (EK blocked) that I'll need to somehow plumb into the loop (CGI rendering so not fussed about Nvlink, I can harness the power of both cards).


These are expensive, but I believe they are what you are looking for. (Just the Riser Component, you will still need to find a Bracket Solution to support the weight.)


----------



## agentdark45

oreonutz said:


> These are expensive, but I believe they are what you are looking for. (Just the Riser Component, you will still need to find a Bracket Solution to support the weight.)


Yeah I came across those, but was sceptical, and not to mention the mounting costs of the EK bracket + that riser cable. Hopefully I can just get away with horizontal mount + support.


----------



## oreonutz

Mroberts95 said:


> I hope so too, I would hate for that mid nov to just go wayside and be months down the road.
> 
> But I’ll be hoping for some good news this week. I had an estimate of early this week so we shall see if that holds up still.
> 
> I ended up selling my 2080ti HC for a good price so I’m a bit bummed it hasn’t arrived yet but what’s another week or two in the long run, as long as it’s before cyber punk then I’m all good.
> 
> Once that arrives if no card all hell breaks loose 😂😂


I hear that. I know Covid slapped them hard, and put everything out of wack for them, but it seems they have recovered since then, I believe they will be here by Mid November, they know we are the loudest and proudest enthusiasts that will shout to everyone about how much we love our blocks, so its reasonable to assume they are going to do everything they can to get us those blocks in time for Cyber Punk, as they know thats the title most of are waiting for. Its also encouraging to see there first run was only a very small number of Blocks, so that they could easily fill the orders before moving on to do more. All of those things tell me that its likely we will see the block by the time they quoted, and as you were one of the people to Lend Your card, and you are skipping the Anodizing Process, its also reasonable to assume you will be the first to receive your Block (& Card of Course). Can't wait to hear that you have them, and can't wait to see what you can do with them!


----------



## Mroberts95

I can’t wait,

Just the renders look awesome and based of what the prototype looked like i am excited to see how they turn out.

What gets me the most excited is the 8c delta from water temp. My 2080ti hydro copper could be 10-12c at load depending on what the task was.

Excited to see how these blocks allow overclock.

My ambient has dropped due to super cold weather and my water temp was 19c the other day.


----------



## oreonutz

agentdark45 said:


> Yeah I came across those, but was sceptical, and not to mention the mounting costs of the EK bracket + that riser cable. Hopefully I can just get away with horizontal mount + support.


So these are not my claims, as I have not ordered mine yet, but a good friend of mine whom I trust was able to get a early review sample of the Riser, and according to him, for the bandwidth tests he ran, this absolutely is the highest performing Riser cable on the market. Its damn expensive, but if you want to Vertical Mount and Benchmark, this is the way to go.

I am doing Normal Horizontal Mounting myself (although I only have a measly FTW3 3080), but still plan on getting one so I can test the claims myself.


----------



## oreonutz

Mroberts95 said:


> I can’t wait,
> 
> Just the renders look awesome and based of what the prototype looked like i am excited to see how they turn out.
> 
> What gets me the most excited is the 8c delta from water temp. My 2080ti hydro copper could be 10-12c at load depending on what the task was.
> 
> Excited to see how these blocks allow overclock.
> 
> My ambient has dropped due to super cold weather and my water temp was 19c the other day.


That excites me as well. My WAY LESS Power Hungry FTW3 1080ti with its EK Block, was still 14c above Water Temp when really stressing the card. I actually still enjoyed that because it meant at absolute worst my card was still only 54c, and that was rare to see (Basically it would only happen when my CPU and GPU were both under extreme stress for about 30 Mins Straight.) Most the time, when just playing a game I would see the GPU Settle at about 10c over water Temp, and I am guessing that the 8c number we are given were when putting the Card under extreme loads, and if that is the case we will probably see something more like 5 to 6 over water when under an extended Gaming load, and that would be awesome!


----------



## Mroberts95

Exactly.

I havent heard any news and its almost 5PM there so I think that goes out the window for today.
Maybe tomorrow?


----------



## oreonutz

Mroberts95 said:


> Exactly.
> 
> I havent heard any news and its almost 5PM there so I think that goes out the window for today.
> Maybe tomorrow?


Fingers Crossed!


----------



## MiRai

sakete said:


> True. But then they should put a banner on their website that says orders are typically delayed by 3 weeks. And their email system should send an auto-reply to every email they receive that states that they're understaffed and email responses can take up to a week, or whatever. Again, good communication solves a lot. All we get is crickets.
> 
> Any issues they have can be solved by good communication. And this is very easy technology to implement.





gengar said:


> Then they need to say so, simple as that. The Optimus website currently has a blurb about vague "delays" but back when I placed my order it was the old blurb about COVID-19 issues a while ago but everything being back to "normal" (although I suppose what constitues "normal" at Optimus is apparently up for debate here). I shouldn't have to wait weeks to get an e-mail stating that my order of a supposedly in-stock item is going to take weeks to fulfill. If the order fulfillment delay is currently at least 3 weeks, they need to state that on the website. As others have said - it's about properly managing expectations.


I'm just going to offer up some counter-narrative to the above.

As of October 19th, I became a brand new customer with Optimus when I placed a pre-order for the first batch of FTW3 blocks, but I was a little hesitant because of people, like the above, complaining about all these supposed delays, and you would think that no one would be receiving their product and that Optimus would be out of business because of this. However, on Friday, I chose to also order a CPU block from them, and lo and behold, I wake up to an e-mail this morning telling me it's been shipped, so... I guess they're busy working rather than responding to threads like these.










I was expecting it to take a lot longer than that, because they _do_ have a banner at the top of their website stating the following: *We are working hard to process orders! As a result of COVID-19, please understand delivery times may be delayed.*



Thebc2 said:


> Soooo back on the PCIE vertical mount discussion.


Honestly, this thread needs a whole lot less of this because it's impossible to track information with what Optimus is doing right now. This thread keeps being de-railed for 5+ pages at a time with completely unnecessary questions and chitchat, and it's incredibly annoying to follow.

It's just odd that people keep posting about things like which riser cable to use, which vertical mount to use, how to separate old fittings, and look at my case (without any Optimus products in it). Most of what's being posted are just _general_ questions, so why wouldn't you want more eyes on those topics when looking for answers or feedback? Why post in a thread with such limited visibility and low participation compared to the rest of the forum?

It'd be nice to have a thread about Optimus water-cooling products that can stay on track, or someone to moderate this one to help keep all of the unnecessary banter out of it. Mega-threads like this don't help anyone because, as it stands right now, someone who stumbles upon this thread looking for information needs to trudge through almost 300 total pages to find anything, with ~3 pages being created each day that include no information related to the original topic.


----------



## Mroberts95

Same! I am also ready to jump back into Flight Sim P3D V5 as its DX12 and you can increase things a ton with more VRAM so ill really stretch that aspect.

Other games will be nice hit that constant refresh rate of 3440x1400p 120HZ as well as my new LG 27" 4k 144hz, I know that wont hit 144fps on most games but even 90+ will be nice.


----------



## Mroberts95

MiRai said:


> I'm just going to offer up some counter-narrative to the above.
> 
> As of October 19th, I became a brand new customer with Optimus when I placed a pre-order for the first batch of FTW3 blocks, but I was a little hesitant because of people, like the above, complaining about all these supposed delays, and you would think that no one would be receiving their product and that Optimus would be out of business because of this. However, on Friday, I chose to also order a CPU block from them, and lo and behold, I wake up to an e-mail this morning telling me it's been shipped, so... I guess they're busy working rather than responding to threads like these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was expecting it to take a lot longer than that, because they _do_ have a banner at the top of their website stating the following: *We are working hard to process orders! As a result of COVID-19, please understand delivery times may be delayed.*
> 
> 
> Honestly, this thread needs a whole lot less of this because it's impossible to track information with what Optimus is doing right now. This thread keeps being de-railed for 5+ pages at a time with completely unnecessary questions and chitchat, and it's incredibly annoying to follow.
> 
> It's just odd that people keep posting about things like which riser cable to use, which vertical mount to use, how to separate old fittings, and look at my case (without any Optimus products in it). Most of what's being posted are just _general_ questions, so why wouldn't you want more eyes on those topics when looking for answers or feedback? Why post in a thread with such limited visibility and low participation compared to the rest of the forum?
> 
> It'd be nice to have a thread about Optimus water-cooling products that can stay on track, or someone to moderate this one to help keep all of the unnecessary banter out of it. Mega-threads like this don't help anyone because, as it stands right now, someone who stumbles upon this thread looking for information needs to trudge through almost 300 total pages to find anything, with ~3 pages being created each day that include no information related to the original topic.


Sorry when they can't even have somebody shoot back an email more than once a week when the cards we sent will and have given them I bet $10k+ in revenue I deserve to post somewhere else that can get their attention. They rarely visit reddit, nobody posts on discord more than once a month and if you know a phone number or somewhere else to reach them please let us know.

Most people aren't going to come into here and be like oh yeah. My Optimus block xyz shipped and arrived on time. I figured this was a place we could use as a method of contact if we needed.

I am glad you had a decent experience and things worked out. Unforutately for a lot of people I know etc. that was not the case.


----------



## gengar

MiRai said:


> I'm just going to offer up some counter-narrative to the above.
> 
> As of October 19th, I became a brand new customer with Optimus when I placed a pre-order for the first batch of FTW3 blocks, but I was a little hesitant because of people, like the above, complaining about all these supposed delays, and you would think that no one would be receiving their product and that Optimus would be out of business because of this. However, on Friday, I chose to also order a CPU block from them, and lo and behold, I wake up to an e-mail this morning telling me it's been shipped, so... I guess they're busy working rather than responding to threads like these.


I'm glad it worked out for you, but totally boggles the mind as I have an e-mail from Optimus just last week stating minimum 3 week time to fulfil even "in-stock" orders. Nothing more to do but throw my hands up in exasperation at this point.


----------



## sakete

Mroberts95 said:


> Exactly.
> 
> I havent heard any news and its almost 5PM there so I think that goes out the window for today.
> Maybe tomorrow?


That's surprising.


----------



## oreonutz

Mroberts95 said:


> Sorry when they can't even have somebody shoot back an email more than once a week when the cards we sent will and have given them I bet $10k+ in revenue I deserve to post somewhere else that can get their attention. They rarely visit reddit, nobody posts on discord more than once a month and if you know a phone number or somewhere else to reach them please let us know.
> 
> Most people aren't going to come into here and be like oh yeah. My Optimus block xyz shipped and arrived on time. I figured this was a place we could use as a method of contact if we needed.
> 
> I am glad you had a decent experience and things worked out. Unforutately for a lot of people I know etc. that was not the case.





gengar said:


> I'm glad it worked out for you, but totally boggles the mind as I have an e-mail from Optimus just last week stating minimum 3 week time to fulfil even "in-stock" orders. Nothing more to do but throw my hands up in exasperation at this point.


I definitely understand the frustration. Hopefully they will get the kinks worked out with their estimated timelines and communications. I totally can see it from both angles. I also have only had good experiences in working with Optimus, but I also understand that there are others who have not. They are definitely still growing as a company, and I think over time they will get all of this ironed out. Obviously that doesn't help with your frustrations right now, which again are completely valid, just know that they will take care of you, in the end the product will likely be something that will make you happy, and hopefully that day is coming soon.

I don't think its fair to hand wave away your complaints. I also understand they are a relatively new company that are still trying to get a handle on every aspect of their business, and now trying to do that through Covid makes it even harder. Still I know communication isn't much to ask for, but at the same time as long as they are working hard on our products instead of spending the day answering our concerns, I believe that in the end will satisfy us. Hopefully soon you will hear your blocks are on the way.



MiRai said:


> Honestly, this thread needs a whole lot less of this because it's impossible to track information with what Optimus is doing right now. This thread keeps being de-railed for 5+ pages at a time with completely unnecessary questions and chitchat, and it's incredibly annoying to follow.


As for this forum being used for things other than Optimus, sorry dude, that ship sailed about 10 Pages into this thread, welcome to OCN. I actually don't mind so much that we go off the topic of the thread, as long as we are staying within the Hardware Enthusiast realm of discussion, a lot of us love posting here because we are familiar with the posters in this particular thread and love interacting with others that share the same passions as us, so as long as we aren't getting into pointless bickering (which unfortunately happens all to often, this morning can be Exhibit 999999 in that) or talking about Politics or Religion or some other crap that isn't PC related, then I think most of us are happy. Thankfully if you are looking for an answer to a specific question, or if you are only interested in what @Optimus WC posts, then the advanced search feature actually works surprisingly well, and that can lead you to exactly what you looking for much quicker than reading every page of a thread ever will (Even when the threads do stay on topic.)

Anyways, my 2 cents on it. As if anyone cares, lol!

I Still want those Beauty shots @Optimus WC ! LOL!


----------



## LiquidHaus

pcie 3.0 vs 4.0

for those who are interested...


----------



## oreonutz

LiquidHaus said:


> pcie 3.0 vs 4.0
> 
> for those who are interested...


Sweet! Haven't checked my Youtube Sub Box yet today, so thanks for this!

See, if it weren't for "Off Topic Posts" then we wouldn't have gotten this awesome post! Appreciate it @LiquidHaus !

EDIT: Oh, I am dumb... I already watched this like a month ago! LOL! Still great content though!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
This is not an official optimus thread because they "the manufacture" never bothered to make one.
This one turned into a popular alternative.


----------



## zervun

oreonutz said:


> As for this forum being used for things other than Optimus, sorry dude, that ship sailed about 10 Pages into this thread, welcome to OCN. I actually don't mind so much that we go off the topic of the thread, as long as we are staying within the Hardware Enthusiast realm of discussion, a lot of us love posting here because we are familiar with the posters in this particular thread and love interacting with others that share the same passions as us, so as long as we aren't getting into pointless bickering (which unfortunately happens all to often, this morning can be Exhibit 999999 in that) or talking about Politics or Religion or some other crap that isn't PC related, then I think most of us are happy. Thankfully if you are looking for an answer to a specific question, or if you are only interested in what @Optimus WC posts, then the advanced search feature actually works surprisingly well, and that can lead you to exactly what you looking for much quicker than reading every page of a thread ever will (Even when the threads do stay on topic.)


I concur. I think all of us have/plan to use Optimus products (as they are arguably best in class of many pieces) but in general this thread has a bunch of people with some ridiculously high-end water-cooled systems, everything from diy, caselabs, multi-rad, you name it pushing the envelope. I keep tabs on this thread for more of the general banter than the Optimus specific stuff but it goes right along with the theme.


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> This is not an official optimus thread because they "the manufacture" never bothered to make one.
> This one turned into a popular alternative.


Hi, 
Grand Master Thrash. I think you misspelled Manufacturer!   



zervun said:


> I concur. I think all of us have/plan to use Optimus products (as they are arguably best in class of many pieces) but in general this thread has a bunch of people with some ridiculously high-end water-cooled systems, everything from diy, caselabs, multi-rad, you name it pushing the envelope. I keep tabs on this thread for more of the general banter than the Optimus specific stuff but it goes right along with the theme.


Well Said! 100% Agree!


----------



## ThrashZone

oreonutz said:


> Hi,
> Grand Master Thrash. I think you misspelled Manufacturer!
> 
> 
> 
> Well Said! 100% Agree!


Hi,
You have no head so you have nowhere to put your glasses on lol


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You have no head so you have nowhere to put your glasses on lol


Hi,

Is that why when I first met you I thought your name was TrashMaster for like the first several Months? lol

Maybe I can 3d Print myself a head, Going to look into that...

Bye   



EDIT: For those who care, New GN Video Just released! Its AMD Mountain Bike Time!


----------



## Thebc2

MiRai said:


> I'm just going to offer up some counter-narrative to the above.
> 
> As of October 19th, I became a brand new customer with Optimus when I placed a pre-order for the first batch of FTW3 blocks, but I was a little hesitant because of people, like the above, complaining about all these supposed delays, and you would think that no one would be receiving their product and that Optimus would be out of business because of this. However, on Friday, I chose to also order a CPU block from them, and lo and behold, I wake up to an e-mail this morning telling me it's been shipped, so... I guess they're busy working rather than responding to threads like these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was expecting it to take a lot longer than that, because they _do_ have a banner at the top of their website stating the following: *We are working hard to process orders! As a result of COVID-19, please understand delivery times may be delayed.*
> 
> 
> Honestly, this thread needs a whole lot less of this because it's impossible to track information with what Optimus is doing right now. This thread keeps being de-railed for 5+ pages at a time with completely unnecessary questions and chitchat, and it's incredibly annoying to follow.
> 
> It's just odd that people keep posting about things like which riser cable to use, which vertical mount to use, how to separate old fittings, and look at my case (without any Optimus products in it). Most of what's being posted are just _general_ questions, so why wouldn't you want more eyes on those topics when looking for answers or feedback? Why post in a thread with such limited visibility and low participation compared to the rest of the forum?
> 
> It'd be nice to have a thread about Optimus water-cooling products that can stay on track, or someone to moderate this one to help keep all of the unnecessary banter out of it. Mega-threads like this don't help anyone because, as it stands right now, someone who stumbles upon this thread looking for information needs to trudge through almost 300 total pages to find anything, with ~3 pages being created each day that include no information related to the original topic.


I (and others) would consider the vertical mount especially on point given the weight of the card and Optimus’ recommendation to vertical mount...

Thank god we have you here to police the thread, lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## chibi

@Optimus WC - Any chance for a single slot I/O bracket for the 3-series FTW cards?


----------



## Section31

zervun said:


> I concur. I think all of us have/plan to use Optimus products (as they are arguably best in class of many pieces) but in general this thread has a bunch of people with some ridiculously high-end water-cooled systems, everything from diy, caselabs, multi-rad, you name it pushing the envelope. I keep tabs on this thread for more of the general banter than the Optimus specific stuff but it goes right along with the theme.


The way i view things is this. The Optimus group here is basically the top percentage group of the OCN overclocking/water cooling group, which is also the group willing to spend lot of money on there PC's. If you see the other threads, they get some of the same post seen here but to lesser extent.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> This is not an official optimus thread because they "the manufacture" never bothered to make one.
> This one turned into a popular alternative.


Yes that is the case. Also, Optimus Rep basically came in and started responding, which then lead it to becoming an popular alternative. It's also seems to get responses from them faster than other sites too. Optimus posts put this way are very inaccurate on timeline, etc so even if you could read it, not sure how useful it is.


----------



## Section31

MiRai said:


> I'm just going to offer up some counter-narrative to the above.
> 
> As of October 19th, I became a brand new customer with Optimus when I placed a pre-order for the first batch of FTW3 blocks, but I was a little hesitant because of people, like the above, complaining about all these supposed delays, and you would think that no one would be receiving their product and that Optimus would be out of business because of this. However, on Friday, I chose to also order a CPU block from them, and lo and behold, I wake up to an e-mail this morning telling me it's been shipped, so... I guess they're busy working rather than responding to threads like these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was expecting it to take a lot longer than that, because they _do_ have a banner at the top of their website stating the following: *We are working hard to process orders! As a result of COVID-19, please understand delivery times may be delayed.*
> 
> 
> Honestly, this thread needs a whole lot less of this because it's impossible to track information with what Optimus is doing right now. This thread keeps being de-railed for 5+ pages at a time with completely unnecessary questions and chitchat, and it's incredibly annoying to follow.
> 
> It's just odd that people keep posting about things like which riser cable to use, which vertical mount to use, how to separate old fittings, and look at my case (without any Optimus products in it). Most of what's being posted are just _general_ questions, so why wouldn't you want more eyes on those topics when looking for answers or feedback? Why post in a thread with such limited visibility and low participation compared to the rest of the forum?
> 
> It'd be nice to have a thread about Optimus water-cooling products that can stay on track, or someone to moderate this one to help keep all of the unnecessary banter out of it. Mega-threads like this don't help anyone because, as it stands right now, someone who stumbles upon this thread looking for information needs to trudge through almost 300 total pages to find anything, with ~3 pages being created each day that include no information related to the original topic.


This is by chance the go to place for Optimus. They probably should create there own thread but never bothered too. I wouldn't actually follow this thread/most of OCN, they all got derailed by small talk. The Hardware News/Rumors section is worse in my opinion. The 3000 GPU threads/Big Navi is full of people ranting and rumor mongering. The Heatkiller thread had couple pages of people debating there 3080/3090 block decision then there decision not to make an Strix block.

Truthfully OCN has been losing users through its various site redos, etc. OCN represents the extreme overclockers more and more. In my experience dealing with some of these OCN personalities, they are definitely knowledgeable individuals but many have eccentric traits/beliefs that show up through there posts and may annoy individuals. 

You aren't losing much information. Honestly, most of the time its Optimus Rep saying future plans. Future plans that we have no idea when its actually comes out. They mention about its radiator but when do you expect them to come out with it, its probably going to be couple years before you see it. The key with Optimus is getting the email contacts, and then handling internal communications with them. IE: The only way right now to get metric hard tube fittings is to contact the people within Optimus.


----------



## originxt

Section31 said:


> This is by chance the go to place for Optimus. They probably should create there own thread but never bothered too. I wouldn't actually follow this thread/most of OCN, they all got derailed by small talk. The Hardware News/Rumors section is worse in my opinion. The 3000 GPU threads/Big Navi is full of people ranting and rumor mongering.
> 
> Turthfully OCN has been losing users through its various site redos, etc. OCN represents the extreme overclockers more and more.
> 
> You aren't losing much information. Honestly, most of the time its Optimus Rep saying future plans. Future plans that we have no idea when its actually comes out. The key with Optimus is getting the email contacts, and then handling internal communications with them. IE: The only way right now to get metric hard tube fittings is to contact the people within Optimus.


To be fair though, the forums would lose a lot of activity in a lot of areas if it stuck to strictly on-topic discussions. These topics turn into almost a messenger area where people with common interests kind of migrate and chat about similar or related topics ie Optimus, watercooling, and plans of their build, questions in general about watercooling builds.

Not saying its always good for topics to stray off so much but kind of better than just a dead forum. Just my opinion.


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> To be fair though, the forums would lose a lot of activity in a lot of areas if it stuck to strictly on-topic discussions. These topics turn into almost a messenger area where people with common interests kind of migrate and chat about similar or related topics ie Optimus, watercooling, and plans of their build, questions in general about watercooling builds.
> 
> Not saying its always good for topics to stray off so much but kind of better than just a dead forum. Just my opinion.


Yeah I agree with you. I guess i am used to it after what we see posted in the rumors/hardware side. This was really the go-to place for Caselabs information and Heatkiller information - mainly due to Jakob prior to Optimus coming. Aquacomputer thread is kind of not active and all new information is on Aquacomputer own website forum. The only other thing was the crazy overclocking we did with our CPU's since there were many users like JpmBoy, Thrashzone and the GPU guys doing there bios flashing, etc to get extra power.


----------



## originxt

I'd like to add, they updated their site, fittings, soft and hard, back in stock. Also, I emailed them and their contact page has been updated as well. I also got an email with this confirmation.




















So they are improving. Just give them some time.


----------



## sakete

originxt said:


> I'd like to add, they updated their site, fittings, soft and hard, back in stock. Also, I emailed them and their contact page has been updated as well. I also got an email with this confirmation.
> 
> View attachment 2463542
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2463541
> 
> 
> So they are improving. Just give them some time.


Yeah sure, I wish it only took them two days to respond  You wouldn't have seen me complaining in here if I only had to wait two days on an email response. But yeah, hopefully they'll start getting better. Good customer service is important. It means people will keep coming back.


----------



## Mroberts95

Glad to see that got updated as that was not their before,

I would hope we get updates within the next day or two if people are getting it from the form.

Either they were planning on updating their page or reading stuff from today jump started that process.

I hope it helps things going forward for all.


----------



## originxt

Went with mayhem's clear tubing last time, is that still the best? Maybe go with all black tubing without plasticizer? Any kind of aesthetic route is so hard with the brown and tan noctua a12x25 fans. Snagging some optimus fittings so I figured I'd try to make the build look reasonable instead of just absolute catastrophe lol.

Also debating a 4th rad slim rad in the case but i'll have to do some more measurements before going that route.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> A lot of 38 post newbie complainers
> I'll go out on a limb here and say reddit is closed lol


Funny tho they complaining about out of topic stuff then when you and me and the old geezer were doing the data compilations nobody were around like :rollseyes: this comes with the topic at hand the data is in here just look for it.. I brought in some of my data up couple 20-30 pages ago. The numbers still the same. Regardless xD


Btw, to go back to on topic about the complaining they seems to love here about delays galore.. we back to curfew at 10pm here in chicago for non essential workers its just going to get worst from here on guess what? expect more delays ..

But lets blame a small company during covid for it. Expectations vs reality.


----------



## Mroberts95

I’ll just air all of my issues to optimus so in the future things can hopefully be fixed .


----------



## Shawnb99

Mroberts95 said:


> I hope Optimus isn’t working til 10pm every day but you never know.
> 
> I just want my card back at this point, they can send me the block whenever it’s done.
> 
> And yes I can blame the small company, don’t give me a two week expectation then double that time and stop responding to emails.
> 
> It’s one thing to push things back but another to go radio silent with people’s cards that are worth a decent amount.
> 
> Covid is not a free pass to ignore those helping you out and crappy customer service. If it was huge company or a small one it doesn’t matter, if you can’t send two people an email more than once a week there are bigger problems to worry about
> 
> I am done arguing about this. People will see this different and blame different things, why did you do it if you knew etc etc.
> 
> At this point if I get my card back in working order I’ll be happy, anything past that is a plus.



It's funny that you think it's only 2 people that they have to respond to. More likely it's 200 if not even more. Don't send the card in if you're this concerned over it.


----------



## zervun

originxt said:


> Went with mayhem's clear tubing last time, is that still the best? Maybe go with all black tubing without plasticizer? Any kind of aesthetic route is so hard with the brown and tan noctua a12x25 fans. Snagging some optimus fittings so I figured I'd try to make the build look reasonable instead of just absolute catastrophe lol.
> 
> Also debating a 4th rad slim rad in the case but i'll have to do some more measurements before going that route.


I've had great luck with EK black tubing (about the only thing I buy from them). My build is half EK black half bitspower hard tubing (clear). Gives it a little bling with the hardtubing but can very easily swap out the graphics card/mobo/cpu due to the soft tubing connecting those (Ek distro block). When I first put it together I though maybe I should have gone just all hard. Now after pulling things out at least 5x or so I don't think I can go back to all hard tube unless I really configure it to be pulled off easy.

Wish noctua would have just all black fans... And/or at least offer the redux in the 200mms (I have them on my mora3)


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, monday we were deep into making blocks  We're on track to ship on time! XC3 blocks will prob be another 2 weeks behind the FTW3 block launch.

We're aiming for FTW3 Batch 2 this friday. 

For the gpu kidney donors, Mr. Roberts first block will ship out later this week, then Sakete's XC3 will be once we do final modifications for the XC3 block


----------



## Mroberts95

Thanks for the update!


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, monday we were deep into making blocks  We're on track to ship on time! XC3 blocks will prob be another 2 weeks behind the FTW3 block launch.
> 
> We're aiming for FTW3 Batch 2 this friday.
> 
> For the gpu kidney donors, Mr. Roberts first block will ship out later this week, then Sakete's XC3 will be once we do final modifications for the XC3 block


What does this mean for XC3? End of November? Mid-December? Anyway, sending you an email now.


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> What does this mean for XC3? End of November? Mid-December? Anyway, sending you an email now.


He said 2 weeks so if we convert that to Optimus time yours should be ready by Easter, give or take another 6 months.


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> He said 2 weeks so if we convert that to Optimus time yours should be ready by Easter, give or take another 6 months.


Easter of what year is the real question 😁


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> He said 2 weeks so if we convert that to Optimus time yours should be ready by Easter, give or take another 6 months.


Sounds about right.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Easter of what year is the real question 😁


 I'll be generous and say 2025!


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Easter of what year is the real question 😁


Yeah you joke, but just send me back my card immediately and you can send the block whenever it's ready. Sent you an email. Before you know it all of Chicago is completely shut down and my card is sitting in your office for months. No thanks.


----------



## gengar

originxt said:


> Went with mayhem's clear tubing last time, is that still the best? Maybe go with all black tubing without plasticizer?


I've been using Tygon A-60-G ever since I started watercooling, since I don't do it for aesthetics. Consider buying in bulk from an industrial supplier rather than the typical watercooling/computer retailers. Just be aware that it has Norprene branding stamped in white every so often along the tube.




Optimus WC said:


> Easter of what year is the real question 😁


This is so tone-deaf it's staggering.


----------



## Shawnb99

gengar said:


> This is so tone-deaf it's staggering.


They made a joke, how dare they! Have them hanged, drawn and quartered at once.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> They made a joke, how dare they! Have them hanged, drawn and quartered at once.


I think that joke is out of place right now to me when they're holding ~$900 of my merchandise without giving me any collateral and they're not responding to any emails. First time I'm hearing about XC3 now being much later, and I have to visit a frigging forum to find out about it. This information should have been in my email inbox this morning before it was posted here.

If you don't get that it's out of place and tone-deaf, then I don't know what line of work you're in, but I wouldn't want to be your customer. You sound like an Optimus apologist.


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> I think that joke is out of place right now to me when they're holding ~$900 of my merchandise without giving me any collateral and they're not responding to any emails. First time I'm hearing about XC3 now being much later, and I have to visit a frigging forum to find out about it. This information should have been in my email inbox this morning before it was posted here.
> 
> If you don't get that it's out of place and tone-deaf, then I don't know what line of work you're in, but I wouldn't want to be your customer. You sound like an Optimus apologist.


Actually I work in CS.


----------



## Optimus WC

We'll ship it back asap, not a problem, and thanks for letting us use the card to get the dimensions!!  The FTW3 took priority, though now the platform has been proven. We'll send you the block with the first batch of finished XC3 nickel blocks unless you want the raw version. 

As for chicago, I don't believe we'll be seeing a massive shutdown, more like the "typical" social distance, no bars/restaurants, etc.


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> We'll ship it back asap, not a problem, and thanks for letting us use the card to get the dimensions!!  The FTW3 took priority, though now the platform has been proven. We'll send you the block with the first batch of finished XC3 nickel blocks unless you want the raw version.
> 
> As for chicago, I don't believe we'll be seeing a massive shutdown, more like the "typical" social distance, no bars/restaurants, etc.


Thanks. And I think we had agreed on the raw copper version. Check our email correspondence.


----------



## Shawnb99

I get it you're angry. You spent $900 on a GPU and kindly lent it to them to make a block and you're sick of waiting. I get it. Getting angry won't get you anywhere, so the more you get angry the less help you get.
Maybe they are in the process of sending out 30 emails to everyone about when the blocks will be out and all the info but that'll take a few hours to write so in Optimus's excitement they came on here to share the news and give us the info you're so angry over. Was that a bad idea? Of course, they should of waited for the official email to go out but now you're also up to date as well.

I'm no apologist, I just know how this works. I'll say this again if you weren't willing to be patient with your card why did you send it in? You're getting a $300 block for free so maybe you should stop complaining and wait. 

The people still waiting for the 2080ti blocks have a right to *****. Everyone bitching about the 30 series is just entitled and needs to keep quiet and wait.


----------



## oreonutz

I have another Off Topic Post, apologies for anyone who actually cares about that...

Cyber Punk was just pushed back to December 10th. F-M-L.


----------



## chibi

Seriously, the entitled mentality here is beyond comprehension. 

Judging by the comments I see now, say goodbye to community involvement with supplying cards in exchange for blocks. Not worth the hassle for Optimus imo.


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> I have another Off Topic Post, apologies for anyone who actually cares about that...
> 
> Cyber Punk was just pushed back to December 10th. F-M-L.


That's good news. I can cancel my PS5 Order soon. I'm likely to get my PC back up by December (if AMD can meet supply)


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Seriously, the entitled mentality here is beyond comprehension.
> 
> Judging by the comments I see now, say goodbye to community involvement with supplying cards in exchange for blocks. Not worth the hassle for Optimus imo.


As Shawnb99 said, It's an hard trade-off. If you really do need your card and can't wait too long, just use it in first place and pay the cost for an water block. If you are interested in the free block, expect to be patient. Each person has to decide that when making there own decision. The people who took up the offer knew the risk since some of Optimus issues have been well documented.

My personal opinion is either way you win if you are one of the free block guys, you can easily resell that block + GPU and come out with extra money in your bank account (even if you sell the 3080/3090 at cost). This is if you endup wanting to go AMD Big Navi Route. The number of people on Reddit wanting 3080/3090+ Waterblock are quite high and most just use Barrows/Bykski\EKWB\Alphacool


----------



## oreonutz

Section31 said:


> That's good news. I can cancel my PS5 Order soon. I'm likely to get my PC back up by December (if AMD can meet supply)


Guess we will find out soon. I was really looking forward into taking some time off work and playing it next month. I guess I will have to do that around Christmas now though, guess that isn't so bad...


----------



## Shawnb99

Least this means it likely won't get delayed a 3rd time


----------



## darkangelism

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, monday we were deep into making blocks  We're on track to ship on time! XC3 blocks will prob be another 2 weeks behind the FTW3 block launch.
> 
> We're aiming for FTW3 Batch 2 this friday.
> 
> For the gpu kidney donors, Mr. Roberts first block will ship out later this week, then Sakete's XC3 will be once we do final modifications for the XC3 block


is the second batch of ftw3 still nickel or will it be copper blocks?


----------



## darkangelism

Section31 said:


> That's good news. I can cancel my PS5 Order soon. I'm likely to get my PC back up by December (if AMD can meet supply)


send your ps5 to me instead of cancelling it. though i am not sure of canada to the US shipping makes it worth it.


----------



## Section31

darkangelism said:


> send your ps5 to me instead of cancelling it. though i am not sure of canada to the US shipping makes it worth it.


Shipping + Insurance (must) would be 100USD at least. Cross-Border stuff is expensive atm.


----------



## Shawnb99

I'll gladly take it if you don't want it. I'll play one game and then it can collect dust next to my PS4


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> Guess we will find out soon. I was really looking forward into taking some time off work and playing it next month. I guess I will have to do that around Christmas now though, guess that isn't so bad...


Wouldn't that work better than November since you can string together say an week holiday + two weekends but only actually use like use 4 days of holidays pay.


----------



## sakete

Man, all of you people apologizing on Optimus's behalf, calling this entitlement, etc, are completely missing the point.

The core issue is lack of communication and setting completely wrong expectations. It has nothing to do with waiting. If they had said back in September that realistically it could take about 2 months for full turn around, I and others would have been able to make a more informed decision about sending in our cards. It's not about being entitled to a block and wanting it now. It's about them saying it's going to take another week for 6 weeks now. I can wait for a block however long it's going to take, but don't keep dangling a carrot in front of me saying it's almost done every time. 

Look at what Watercool is doing, they've been giving realistic time lines from the start for their blocks and thus people know what to expect. 

Anyway, I've elaborated enough on this in other posts.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Man, all of you people apologizing on Optimus's behalf, calling this entitlement, etc, are completely missing the point.
> 
> The core issue is lack of communication and setting completely wrong expectations. It has nothing to do with waiting. If they had said back in September that realistically it could take about 2 months for full turn around, I and others would have been able to make a more informed decision about sending in our cards. It's not about being entitled to a block and wanting it now. It's about them saying it's going to take another week for 6 weeks now. I can wait for a block however long it's going to take, but don't keep dangling a carrot in front of me saying it's almost done every time.
> 
> Look at what Watercool is doing, they've been giving realistic time lines from the start for their blocks and thus people know what to expect.
> 
> Anyway, I've elaborated enough on this in other posts.


I was hinting at that but not directly saying that. Communication is one of Optimus major weakness. The other is promising overly optimistic timelines that may endup causing some people to get mad. It's area we all hope they do better in.

I think Aquacomputer does it best, since its pretty tight lip about it products (upcoming) and most of the time you find out after they announce it. The earliest source is there forums. The downside is basically some users like me endup buying one of there older products to only have it replaced couple months down the road like the case of the flow meter. 

Heatkiller also has an tendency to leak out the products without promising anything but I appreciate it since it means i will hold back on my plans to wait for the new products. It's better on the wallet since i properly allocate the resources instead of double dipping. However, the only costs are you endup holding/delaying your build, etc as result of that leak. I originally wasn't planning to upgrade my notebook (was looking at cheaper options) but with all the rumors going on including heatkiller new rads, I better maximize my value of my 2080ti, etc so I just paid the extra to get the more expensive and more powerful options. That and I probably should have sold my 3950X during the summer had i known i would have to wait 4-6months for an GPU.


----------



## CluckyTaco

I see some good news here even with delay of Cyberpunk2077 NVIDIA preparing GeForce RTX 3080 Ti with 9984 CUDA cores? - VideoCardz.com.


----------



## Section31

CluckyTaco said:


> I see some good news here even with delay of Cyberpunk2077 NVIDIA preparing GeForce RTX 3080 Ti with 9984 CUDA cores? - VideoCardz.com.


That's good. The people without GPU's now have more options. (and more waiting)


----------



## zervun

Section31 said:


> I was hinting at that but not directly saying that. Communication is one of Optimus major weakness. The other is promising overly optimistic timelines that may endup causing some people to get mad. It's area we all hope they do better in.


Yep, it is beyond puzzling that they just don't hire some thirsty tech newbie at minimum wage to reply to emails even if it's just to let you know they received emails/etc. Most companies don't get timelines right so not a big deal at least to me if they slip - as long as it gets communicated.

Literally the only bad press they get really is the black hole of communication and it's going to get worse with the floodgates opening with GN videos and so forth.


----------



## Section31

zervun said:


> Yep, it is beyond puzzling that they just don't hire some thirsty tech newbie at minimum wage to reply to emails even if it's just to let you know they received emails/etc. Most companies don't get timelines right so not a big deal at least to me if they slip - as long as it gets communicated.
> 
> Literally the only bad press they get really is the black hole of communication and it's going to get worse with the floodgates opening with GN videos and so forth.


That's an interesting concern. How do these businesses balance parent company vs consumer side. Optimus never said what they do exactly before the started making water blocks but they mentioned they do work for hospitals. Assuming that is the case, you literally got to balance out the more profitable/bigger volume b2b side versus the handling the consumer side. That's the impression I got from caselabs, basically the bulk of the production was allocated to its custom furniture/server racks side and caselabs cases just used small portion of the production capacity.


----------



## zervun

Section31 said:


> That's an interesting concern. How do these businesses balance parent company vs consumer side. Optimus never said what they do exactly before the started making water blocks but they mentioned they do work for hospitals. Assuming that is the case, you literally got to balance out the more profitable/bigger volume b2b side versus the handling the consumer side. That's the impression I got from caselabs, basically the bulk of the production was allocated to its custom furniture/server racks side and caselabs cases just used small portion of the production capacity.


Ya, could be a likely senario. Who knows what the main business side is doing - they could be slammed.


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> Least this means it likely won't get delayed a 3rd time


Fingers Crossed on that one!



Shawnb99 said:


> I'll gladly take it if you don't want it. I'll play one game and then it can collect dust next to my PS4


LOL! That is EXACTLY what would happen in my case! I bought my PS4 Pro for RDR2, Got so pissed off at How AWFUL that input Latency was, and ended up playing it for about 5 days until I decided I would just wait for it to come out on PC. I did play the PS4 maybe another 3 or 4 times with my Sister because all she had before I built her a gaming Rig was a PS4 to play on, and we played a bunch of Apex on it, but again I hated using the Controller and the Input lag and low Frame Rate. So I ended up building her a Sweet Water Cooled Gaming Rig, and I literally have not turned on my PS4 Since. Its just sitting there, collecting dust... I know that is exactly what would happen with my PS5, so not even going to bother. It seems Playstation has FINALLY seen the light, and is starting to realize the player base they are missing out on by not bringing there exclusives to PC. So hopefully, even if we have to wait a year, or 2 or however long, we will start to get the PS Exlusives on PC, at that point there is literally no reason to buy one. I don't mind waiting a year or 2, I have such a Backlog of Games, that it would have to be a RDR2 or Cyberpunk Caliber game for me to even consider buying a console for it. Although I know this generation, if it lives up to the marketing hype, will be more like a PC then ever, I still just prefer to game on my PC.



Section31 said:


> Wouldn't that work better than November since you can string together say an week holiday + two weekends but only actually use like use 4 days of holidays pay.


In my situation no, its exactly the same. For other people with a normal job, yeah it probably would be better. For me I currently run my Own business with a Partner and a couple of employees, so when I take time off, I usually have to schedule one of my Employees in my place, and still be on call if they need my support, or put it on the lap of my partner, which we generally only do to each other once a year or for emergencies. Long story short, from right now til the end of the year is a perfect time to take a break because while we have a few scheduled Projects with clients, we don't have a huge influx of new clients, and work is pretty steady but not unbearably so, so this is usually a period that my Employees can handle with just a little bit of oversight. That will largely be the same in December, I was just looking forward to the time off next month and relaxing with CyberPunk, but I can wait another month, not a huge deal.



sakete said:


> Man, all of you people apologizing on Optimus's behalf, calling this entitlement, etc, are completely missing the point.
> 
> The core issue is lack of communication and setting completely wrong expectations. It has nothing to do with waiting. If they had said back in September that realistically it could take about 2 months for full turn around, I and others would have been able to make a more informed decision about sending in our cards. It's not about being entitled to a block and wanting it now. It's about them saying it's going to take another week for 6 weeks now. I can wait for a block however long it's going to take, but don't keep dangling a carrot in front of me saying it's almost done every time.
> 
> Look at what Watercool is doing, they've been giving realistic time lines from the start for their blocks and thus people know what to expect.
> 
> Anyway, I've elaborated enough on this in other posts.


I really don't think its fair to label you guys as entitled. I do believe that you knew what you were getting into, but at the same time it is 100 Percent reasonable to expect regular personal updates, even if its just once every week or 2, especially if there are going to be delays. I don't want to get on Optimus' case too hard though, they have ALWAYS been good to me, and I love the disruption they are bringing to the market, along with the awesome performance oriented products. They are the Watercooling brand for me. I just really don't want this bad communication to be what gives them bad PR in the eyes of normal consumers. And I do think its reasonable when loaning a card out to expect semi-regular communication, so I think some of you guys are being a little to harsh to these guys. I get that you are annoyed with constantly reading complaints, and that seems to be what you are pushing back against more than anything, but I don't even think Optimus believes that their feelings are unjustified or "entitled". 

That said, just hang in there a bit longer guys, it looks like your wishes are about to be satisfied, and we all really appreciate your sacrifice in bringing us the best Cards on the Market. Hopefully soon Optimus will hire at least One Customer Facing Employee to answer the concerns of the Consumer, to help nip these C/S problems in the butt, because other than that, they are doing pretty much everything right. Pushing back a product to make it better is ALWAYS the right move, so I don't think any of us can fault them for that. Although it really sucks for those who purchased the 2080ti Blocks and still hasn't received them, their sacrifice is why we are able to get our 3080 Blocks so soon after release especially when compared to how long its taking the other companies to release there aftermarket blocks. I believe over time they will get these issues ironed out, and we can't forget the role Covid has played in this. It does seem though that they have bounced back and are going to hit 2021 Hard, so I support them 100 Percent, and can't wait to see them grow to meet the demand for there products.

Hang in there guys, it sounds like you won't be waiting for much longer, and ignore the people pushing your buttons calling your entitled and whiners, your complaints are 100 percent valid, no matter what anyone says, I think even they know that, but also just know the wait isn't for nothing, and you will be satisfied shortly. I can not WAIT to get these Blocks on my card!


----------



## CluckyTaco

I have a question for Optimus and anyone using their Absolute D5 reservoir system. I know they were working on a mounting bracket for the reservoir to attach to radiators/cases but I don't see them launching it anytime soon. Has anyone been able to find a way to mount it to a radiator? I'm planning a water cooling loop and my only other option is get the Aquacomputer Ultitube and all the mounting bits from Germany.


----------



## Section31

CluckyTaco said:


> I have a question for Optimus and anyone using their Absolute D5 reservoir system. I know they were working on a mounting bracket for the reservoir to attach to radiators/cases but I don't see them launching it anytime soon. Has anyone been able to find a way to mount it to a radiator? I'm planning a water cooling loop and my only other option is get the Aquacomputer Ultitube and all the mounting bits from Germany.


I don't think it will work without creative thought. Something like getting the radiator mounting kit for the Ultitube/Heatkiller Tube (in the case of heatkiller, the alternative metal plate) and drilling holes into the solid metal housing where the pumps sits. There are alternatives to the ultitube just that's it one of the better deals out there imo, just remember to order all the accessories including multiport. Also anything else you need from aquacomputer.


----------



## zervun

Section31 said:


> I don't think it will work without creative thought. Something like getting the radiator mounting kit for the Ultitube/Heatkiller Tube (in the case of heatkiller, the alternative metal plate) and drilling holes into the solid metal housing where the pumps sits. There are alternatives to the ultitube just that's it one of the better deals out there imo, just remember to order all the accessories including multiport. Also anything else you need from aquacomputer.


This is what I did - aluminum plate off of amazon, drilled holes, painted. Was an utter pita getting the holes lined up. The 4 holes on the bottom are probably non-standard to other mounting brackets. There are two on the back as well.

The optimus D5 is quality, but I made the mistake of getting a d5/next/heatkiller res and an optimus one. If you are using aquasuite I would recommend to get 2 matching pumps. The D5 next shows up as a D5 object and the optimus D5 you have to PWM it. It makes making an equal power curve almost impossible as they differ between the two pumps. This of course if you are going dual pumps (which I think is important for one failing although you can do the aquasuite shutdown/power ATX cable with the aquaero XT).

I'm going to be replacing my optimus' with D5 Next ultitubes until Optimus has a mount that can take the next D5. Fyi you can get ultitubes/d5 from modmymods.

Aquasuite is a must imo - is a pita to learn/setup but it is truly badass for watercooling/fan control


----------



## wstanci3

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, monday we were deep into making blocks  We're on track to ship on time! XC3 blocks will prob be another 2 weeks behind the FTW3 block launch.
> 
> We're aiming for FTW3 Batch 2 this friday.


Hello, 
Is Strix still on the table to have a waterblock and if so, will it be right after XC3?


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, regarding the company: while our roots are with aerospace and medical, Optimus is a stand alone company. 

As for customer service, we're small so simply hiring people with no experience isn't really the right move, we think. The vast majority of questions are complex answers, even "where is my order" because there are so many parts to be completed and where those parts are in the production schedule (nickel plating, cleaning, packaging, etc etc). Really, the person would simply ask one of the other people who actually knows and answers the emails. Sometimes we start looking into the answer, but then get pulled into other directions/emergencies. 

Our goal is to ramp up production so all products ship next day. And then we won't have any of these issues. So other than special events, everything can simply be tracked online.

As for GPU sequence, it currently stands at: FTW3, XC3, Strix, TUF. Then it's Reference or Founders, depending on demand.


----------



## chibi

Optimus WC said:


> As for GPU sequence, it currently stands at: FTW3, XC3, Strix, TUF. Then it's Reference or Founders, depending on demand.



While you're here, any chance for a single slot I/O cover for the Ampere FTW3 cards?


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, regarding the company: while our roots are with aerospace and medical, Optimus is a stand alone company.
> 
> As for customer service, we're small so simply hiring people with no experience isn't really the right move, we think. The vast majority of questions are complex answers, even "where is my order" because there are so many parts to be completed and where those parts are in the production schedule (nickel plating, cleaning, packaging, etc etc). Really, the person would simply ask one of the other people who actually knows and answers the emails. Sometimes we start looking into the answer, but then get pulled into other directions/emergencies.
> 
> Our goal is to ramp up production so all products ship next day. And then we won't have any of these issues. So other than special events, everything can simply be tracked online.
> 
> As for GPU sequence, it currently stands at: FTW3, XC3, Strix, TUF. Then it's Reference or Founders, depending on demand.


my question is will you guys be looking for amd big navi reference. I am likely trying to get an 6900xt and if so would send it over to you guys.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

So let me get this straight... You lent your GPU for them to make a block? You expect them to get the block done in the first try? You know they will need to test the first prototype like check for contacts and check their measurement are good and what not?
Its not like they got cad files weeks/months in advance like ek for example so they have like alot of time to do refine work and finishing process.. Common sense.

I dont think communication is the problem with the angry mob xD


----------



## originxt

zervun said:


> This is what I did - aluminum plate off of amazon, drilled holes, painted. Was an utter pita getting the holes lined up. The 4 holes on the bottom are probably non-standard to other mounting brackets. There are two on the back as well.
> 
> The optimus D5 is quality, but I made the mistake of getting a d5/next/heatkiller res and an optimus one. If you are using aquasuite I would recommend to get 2 matching pumps. The D5 next shows up as a D5 object and the optimus D5 you have to PWM it. It makes making an equal power curve almost impossible as they differ between the two pumps. This of course if you are going dual pumps (which I think is important for one failing although you can do the aquasuite shutdown/power ATX cable with the aquaero XT).
> 
> I'm going to be replacing my optimus' with D5 Next ultitubes until Optimus has a mount that can take the next D5. Fyi you can get ultitubes/d5 from modmymods.
> 
> Aquasuite is a must imo - is a pita to learn/setup but it is truly badass for watercooling/fan control


Oh ****... This makes me nervous. I have an ek d5 pump and ordered a protium pump from singularitycomputers. You think I'll have issues when I use a 4 pin 2-1 splitter to connect them together into a Quadro to run them at the same speed? I was under the assumption d5 pumps have the same spec so should operate the same. Both are 4 pin molex, 4 pin fan.


----------



## Shawnb99

I like taking the whole month of December off. Doing 5 weeks this year.


zervun said:


> This is what I did - aluminum plate off of amazon, drilled holes, painted. Was an utter pita getting the holes lined up. The 4 holes on the bottom are probably non-standard to other mounting brackets. There are two on the back as well.
> 
> The optimus D5 is quality, but I made the mistake of getting a d5/next/heatkiller res and an optimus one. If you are using aquasuite I would recommend to get 2 matching pumps. The D5 next shows up as a D5 object and the optimus D5 you have to PWM it. It makes making an equal power curve almost impossible as they differ between the two pumps. This of course if you are going dual pumps (which I think is important for one failing although you can do the aquasuite shutdown/power ATX cable with the aquaero XT).
> 
> I'm going to be replacing my optimus' with D5 Next ultitubes until Optimus has a mount that can take the next D5. Fyi you can get ultitubes/d5 from modmymods.
> 
> Aquasuite is a must imo - is a pita to learn/setup but it is truly badass for watercooling/fan control


I don't see Optimus making a mount for the Next, would have to redesign the whole heatsink/cover thingy. The ultitubes are very nice, have two of them sitting here just waiting to be installed. It's going to be fun trying to get some sort of equal power curve between all my pumps, might have forgo connecting to the Aquero since I can only do two, even with two Aqueros that still leaves two pumps via USB so will be interesting on how to sync them all up or even get them all going without blowing out my whole loop.


----------



## Shawnb99

So 6900XT blocks? When can we expect them?


----------



## asdf893

GG RIP3090


----------



## dwolvin

Shawnb99 said:


> So 6900XT blocks? When can we expect them?


When can you get them one to fit?


----------



## Mroberts95

I would imagine January or later due to the 6900xt not launching til December 8th then sending it to them or them buying one and a months or longer etc to make the blocks. I say 2-3 months from now.


----------



## sakete

asdf893 said:


> GG RIP3090


Cue 3080ti launching soon at $999/$1099.


----------



## zervun

originxt said:


> Oh ****... This makes me nervous. I have an ek d5 pump and ordered a protium pump from singularitycomputers. You think I'll have issues when I use a 4 pin 2-1 splitter to connect them together into a Quadro to run them at the same speed? I was under the assumption d5 pumps have the same spec so should operate the same. Both are 4 pin molex, 4 pin fan.


I'm really not sure if it's the the actual D5 pumps being that much different, or it is that one D5 Next in aquasuite is a completely different object than a PWM controlled fan and thus has different power curves. I tried to match the D5 next with the optimus pump which shows up as a Fan, but as the power curve scales they start differing a lot.

Since you are doing both with like PWM/fan header, then they will probably be at least closer together I can't imagine the D5s being all that different. My D5 next has a way different PWM curve in aquasuite as an "object" than the Optimus D5 which registers as a "fan". I think you can also adjust them via speed but I'm not sure the D5 Next could do that. Now I could probably put the D5 as a non aquasuite object and use it just as a PWM fan, but then you lose out on some of those other features. I am by no means an expert in aquasuite - this is my first adventure into it.

I would definately recommend getting matching D5s but I don't think yours will be that much different if I could guess. I'd also recommend doing D5 Next's (if you can fit them on your res Optimus res you can't) but that would obviously mean you buying new D5s. However this may be all a moot point and your D5's run the same PWM power curve - I wouldn't buy anything new without trying. I'm also unsure on how much of a speed difference between two pumps matters - perhaps I'm overly anal about them being the same or close to speed.

After going down my hodge-podge route, I'm going to be converting everything I have to aquasuite/aquabus items. It is just so badass. Requires a ****-ton of cabling but it is worth it in the end. All my fans are off splittly 4's (for RGB corsair ML 140s) and splitty 9's for Noctuas, some driven off a quadro. The few other stand alone fans such as my SSD hotswap bay 20mm noctua swaps just go to the fan header on the aquero. I also recommend the aquero as it can do some interesting relay/shutoff powersupply stuff and stores all the aquabus settings in it which takes at boot. Not sure if the Octo quite covers that as I am using it as just a RGB splitter for the splity 4's and some fan control. The Aquero 6 XT is the brain.


----------



## zervun

Shawnb99 said:


> I like taking the whole month of December off. Doing 5 weeks this year.
> 
> 
> I don't see Optimus making a mount for the Next, would have to redesign the whole heatsink/cover thingy. The ultitubes are very nice, have two of them sitting here just waiting to be installed. It's going to be fun trying to get some sort of equal power curve between all my pumps, might have forgo connecting to the Aquero since I can only do two, even with two Aqueros that still leaves two pumps via USB so will be interesting on how to sync them all up or even get them all going without blowing out my whole loop.


Ya, I don't either it's just a wish. As per my above reply to originxt I have had major issues with a Next D5 and a optimus D5 as far as setting temp curves/rpm. I'll have to take some screenshots.

Are you talking about the power max of the aquero? I know there is a 2 pump limit, but I wasn't sure if that was 2x Next pumps as objects, or due to 2x D5 pumps on the fan headers (due to power) on the aquero.

I'm going down the path where I was thinking of 3x Nexts 2x on the dual mount they came out with and 1 on the res, although for a time being it will just be 2x pumps.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

Slow news day, right? Oh yeah, AMD is bringing their A game. W are going to be making blocks for the new Radeon monsters. we're thinking the 6900xt is going to be a big overclocker based on the first numbers. 

Of course, unknown if it's the same PCB or different, and what partner cards will look like, other than the tiny few leaks so far. Chances are our block will look like the Absolute 3000 since our new platform is made to be flexible. But unknown about capacitor size, inductors, etc. all that stuff that makes the 3000 cards really tricky to design around. 

We'll be working to get samples, my guess is AMD isn't going to have the same low unit launch of NVIDIA or AMD Vega. 

PUMPS: The "Optimus pump" is the standard Xylem D5 with SATA and PWM. Nothing fancy, no sleeve cables, no extra dials or things to break. We wanted to source the most pure version Xylem makes. We won't be making a mount for any other specific pumps out there, though we will, at some point, do a Foundation version of our pump/res that won't have that giant monoblock base, or XL cast acylic tube, so then you'll be able to use whatever pump fits the mounting. We will, however, always use metal-to-metal mounting, for reliability, though we'll try to keep clearances in mind for future products. But, again, this is in the future, right now we got GPU blocks to make


----------



## lb_felipe

@Optimus WC

@Optimus WC;
The EKWB EK-QDC 10mm Black has been discontinued (end of life). So I wonder if the following set works:

04 x CPC NS4D17006 3/8" Hose Barb Valved Body
04 x CPC NS4D22006 3/8" Hose Barb Valved Insert
02 x Optimus Professional Hose Clamp - 16mm - Six Pack

The hose should be this: 01 x Watercool HEATKILLER EPDM Tubing 16/10 (ID 3/8" - 5/8" OD) black - 3m Retailbox

What do you say about it?


----------



## Optimus WC

lb_felipe said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> @Optimus WC;
> The EKWB EK-QDC 10mm Black has been discontinued (end of life). So I wonder if the following set works:
> 
> 04 x CPC NS4D17006 3/8" Hose Barb Valved Body
> 04 x CPC NS4D22006 3/8" Hose Barb Valved Insert
> 02 x Optimus Professional Hose Clamp - 16mm - Six Pack
> 
> The hose should be this: 01 x Watercool HEATKILLER EPDM Tubing 16/10 (ID 3/8" - 5/8" OD) black - 3m Retailbox
> 
> What do you say about it?


Bingo, the CPC quick disconnects are the ones EK uses. And they're the best available. The hose clamps and hose are also the right choices. You're good to go


----------



## Mroberts95

Thanks again for the updates, seems things are turning around. Can’t wait to throw the 500w bios at the ftw3 and block and see what they do.

I hope it fits with the EKWB vertical mount

I’ve realized crap happens, things don’t go as planned and it all works out in the end.


----------



## lb_felipe

Optimus WC said:


> Bingo, the CPC quick disconnects are the ones EK uses. And they're the best available. The hose clamps and hose are also the right choices. You're good to go


Do I need to buy two packs of clamps in order to have enough pieces of them for 4 sets of qd fittings?


----------



## oreonutz

lb_felipe said:


> Do I need to buy two packs of clamps in order to have enough pieces of them for 4 sets of qd fittings?


You will need 8 Clamps total, so yeah, get 2 packs from Optimus, and you will be great! (I use those SAME EXACT CPC QDC's).


----------



## Mroberts95

oreonutz said:


> You will need 8 Clamps total, so yeah, get 2 packs from Optimus, and you will be great! (I use those SAME EXACT CPC QDC's).


Do QDC make things simple? What do you guys use them for?


----------



## lb_felipe

oreonutz said:


> You will need 8 Clamps total, so yeah, get 2 packs from Optimus, and you will be great! (I use those SAME EXACT CPC QDC's).


That is the problem. Such stuff is expensive! With two packs, I will have 4 fittings as spared. Shall be a waste of money.


----------



## oreonutz

Mroberts95 said:


> Do QDC make things simple? What do you guys use them for?


In my opinion yes. Not necessarily simple for Building, although it really doesn't add much complexity to a loop (Other than some added restriction that you have to keep in mind to overcome), but what it does is allow you to Pull Components and make changes to your system without draining the loop. As long as you make sure to put a QDC after the components that you anticipate pulling out (ex the CPU and GPU) then if you need to troubleshoot, or switch out a CPU, or GPU or whatever, you can do it without draining the loop. You simply turn off the system so the pump turns off, then disconnect the QDC and no water at all comes out, pull out the component, put in the one, connect the QDC's Back up, Turn on the Pump to cycle the fluid if there is none in the blocked component you swapped in, then turn on the computer and you are good to go. Makes Swap outs and Diagnosing SO MUCH SIMPLER!


----------



## oreonutz

lb_felipe said:


> That is the problem. Such stuff is expensive! With two packs, I will have 4 fittings as spared. Shall be a waste of money.


Trust me, you will thank yourself later for having the extras, they come in handy. Why your at it might as well grab an extra set or 2 of QDC's too, lol. Seriously though, if you end up changing the Loop Order you might end up wanting an extra set, then your extra Clamps come in handy too.


----------



## Mroberts95

What are recommend. Might get some for the next time I break things down.


----------



## oreonutz

Mroberts95 said:


> What are recommend. Might get some for the next time I break things down.


In my opinion, and there will be some guys on here that have some other recommendations that are also pretty good, but what I use in all of my client builds, and it turns out its also what Optimus uses in ALL of there client Builds as well are the CPC ones that @lb_felipe Recommended earlier. Specifically:









NS4D22006 3/8" Hose Barb Valved Insert : Colder Products Company (CPC)


NS4D22006 - 3/8 Hose Barb Valved In-Line Coupling Insert




products.cpcworldwide.com












NS4D17006 3/8" Hose Barb Valved Body : Colder Products Company (CPC)


NS4D17006 - 3/8 Hose Barb Valved In-Line Coupling Body




products.cpcworldwide.com





And then pick yourself up some clamps from Optimus and you are good to go. Just make sure the Tubes Your are using are 3/8" ID and they will work great with those. If its a different I/D then CPC has what you need as well, just have to dig them up.


----------



## Mroberts95

It says their clamps are for 5/8 outer diameter, but the qdc are 3/8th do they still work together?


----------



## oreonutz

Mroberts95 said:


> It says their clamps are for 5/8 outer diameter, but the qdc are 3/8th do they still work together?


Yeah, the QDCs are 3/8 Inner, and a common outer is 5/8 with that, so as long as you are using 3/8 Inner and 5/8Outer, the clamp will work for you


----------



## oreonutz

Mroberts95 said:


> It says their clamps are for 5/8 outer diameter, but the qdc are 3/8th do they still work together?


I am sure you probably already know this, but just in case, wanted to make sure you know that these won't work with Hard Tubing. Only Soft tubing, and with Soft Tubing you have an Inner and Outer Diameter. Because the QDC's are Barbs, you only need to match the Barb size to the Inner Diameter, but with Fittings and in this case Clamps, you need to match to the Outer Diameter of your Tubing. A Common Tubing that is used on these QDC's is 3/8inch Inner, 5/8" Outer, or 10mm/16mm, so if thats the tubing you are using, then both those QDC's and those Clamps will work for you.


----------



## lb_felipe

oreonutz said:


> Trust me, you will thank yourself later for having the extras, they come in handy. Why your at it might as well grab an extra set or 2 of QDC's too, lol. Seriously though, if you end up changing the Loop Order you might end up wanting an extra set, then your extra Clamps come in handy too.


Thank you and thank Optimus guy for replies.

I plan a 2 blocks, 2 rads, 1 res and 1 pump top build. So it is 6 legs hoses. I would use 6 sets of qds, but EKWB says this:



EKWB said:


> *Do not use more than four (4) sets of QDC's in a typical custom loop system (with two water blocks and two radiators).*


----------



## Mroberts95

oreonutz said:


> I am sure you probably already know this, but just in case, wanted to make sure you know that these won't work with Hard Tubing. Only Soft tubing, and with Soft Tubing you have an Inner and Outer Diameter. Because the QDC's are Barbs, you only need to match the Barb size to the Inner Diameter, but with Fittings and in this case Clamps, you need to match to the Outer Diameter of your Tubing. A Common Tubing that is used on these QDC's is 3/8inch Inner, 5/8" Outer, or 10mm/16mm, so if thats the tubing you are using, then both those QDC's and those Clamps will work for you.


Ah they won’t work for me, as I use 10/13 soft tubing from Corsair. My outer is 3/8” but thanks for the idea


----------



## oreonutz

lb_felipe said:


> Thank you and thank Optimus guy for replies.
> 
> I plan a 2 blocks, 2 rads, 1 res and 1 pump top build. So it is 6 legs hoses. I would use 6 sets of qds, but EKWB says this:
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2463765


That is more of a guide, and its for there own Weak pump that they shipped with their Phoenix Rads and Blocks. If you have 1 DDC it can definitely handle the restriction, if its one D5 your flow rate won't be as fast as it would be with 4, but it won't have any issues You just will have to run your pump near 70 Percent or so.

@lb_felipe If you want Piece of mind, I would just put 2 Pumps in the Loop (its better for redundancy anyway) then you can run both at slower speeds keeping it Quieter, and if one fails You are still up and running until you can replace it. I know the Cost keeps skyrocketing, but thats how I design my loops with QDC's for both myself and my clients and all Builds are still up and running to this day.



Mroberts95 said:


> Ah they won’t work for me, as I use 10/13 soft tubing from Corsair. My outer is 3/8” but thanks for the idea


If your outer is 13mm I am pretty sure that is more or less equal to 1/2". Your inner is 3/8" so the QDC's will work for you, you just need different size clamps.


----------



## lb_felipe

oreonutz said:


> That is more of a guide, and its for there own Weak pump that they shipped with their Phoenix Rads and Blocks. If you have 1 DDC it can definitely handle the restriction, if its one D5 your flow rate won't be as fast as it would be with 4, but it won't have any issues You just will have to run your pump near 70 Percent or so.


I have in mind something like this:

01 x Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 (Tempered Glass)
01 x Optimus Foundation CPU Block - AMD
01 x Optimus Absolute GPU Block - FTW3 3080/3090
01 x Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200
01 x Watercool HEATKILLER Tube - basic mounting kit
01 x Watercool HEATKILLER Tube - 120mm fan adapter (pair)
02 x Optimus Xylem D5 Pro Pump - PWM + SATA
01 x Aqua Computer ULTITOP DUAL D5
01 x Aqua Computer D5 fan mount 120 mm
01 x Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS
01 x Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis 480GTS
15 x Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM
12 x Optimus Flex Compression Fitting
02 x Optimus Professional Hose Clamp - 16mm - Six Pack
01 x Watercool HEATKILLER EPDM Tubing 16/10 (ID 3/8" - 5/8" OD) black - 3m Retailbox
04 x CPC NS4D17006 3/8" Hose Barb Valved Body
04 x CPC NS4D22006 3/8" Hose Barb Valved Insert
01 x Mayhems X1- Clear 5ltr
01 x Kingpin cooling KPx High Performance Thermal Compound 30G

That is, there would be two D5. Do you recommend changing from four sets of qds to six sets?


----------



## oreonutz

lb_felipe said:


> I have in mind something like this:
> 
> 01 x Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 (Tempered Glass)
> 01 x Optimus Foundation CPU Block - AMD
> 01 x Optimus Absolute GPU Block - FTW3 3080/3090
> 01 x Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200
> 01 x Watercool HEATKILLER Tube - basic mounting kit
> 01 x Watercool HEATKILLER Tube - 120mm fan adapter (pair)
> 02 x Optimus Xylem D5 Pro Pump - PWM + SATA
> 01 x Aqua Computer ULTITOP DUAL D5
> 01 x Aqua Computer D5 fan mount 120 mm
> 01 x Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS
> 01 x Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis 480GTS
> 15 x Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM
> 12 x Optimus Flex Compression Fitting
> 02 x Optimus Professional Hose Clamp - 16mm - Six Pack
> 01 x Watercool HEATKILLER EPDM Tubing 16/10 (ID 3/8" - 5/8" OD) black - 3m Retailbox
> 04 x CPC NS4D17006 3/8" Hose Barb Valved Body
> 04 x CPC NS4D22006 3/8" Hose Barb Valved Insert
> 01 x Mayhems X1- Clear 5ltr
> 01 x Kingpin cooling KPx High Performance Thermal Compound 30G
> 
> That is, there would be two D5. Do you recommend changing from four sets of qds to six sets?


So you have your 2 D5's Covered so all good there. It really depends on your Loop order as to if you need 6 sets or not, but no, now that I am looking this over, 4 Sets is plenty.


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> That is more of a guide, and its for there own Weak pump that they shipped with their Phoenix Rads and Blocks. If you have 1 DDC it can definitely handle the restriction, if its one D5 your flow rate won't be as fast as it would be with 4, but it won't have any issues You just will have to run your pump near 70 Percent or so.
> 
> @lb_felipe If you want Piece of mind, I would just put 2 Pumps in the Loop (its better for redundancy anyway) then you can run both at slower speeds keeping it Quieter, and if one fails You are still up and running until you can replace it. I know the Cost keeps skyrocketing, but thats how I design my loops with QDC's for both myself and my clients and all Builds are still up and running to this day.
> 
> 
> 
> If your outer is 13mm I am pretty sure that is more or less equal to 1/2". Your inner is 3/8" so the QDC's will work for you, you just need different size clamps.


Do you know where you can buy those CPC QDCs other than the CPC site? It's either singles up to 3, or buy a pack of 25. And I just want to get 4, 2 for GPU, 2 for CPU. Not immediately finding anything in a google search.


----------



## sakete

lb_felipe said:


> I have in mind something like this:
> 
> 01 x Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 (Tempered Glass)
> 01 x Optimus Foundation CPU Block - AMD
> 01 x Optimus Absolute GPU Block - FTW3 3080/3090
> 01 x Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200
> 01 x Watercool HEATKILLER Tube - basic mounting kit
> 01 x Watercool HEATKILLER Tube - 120mm fan adapter (pair)
> 02 x Optimus Xylem D5 Pro Pump - PWM + SATA
> 01 x Aqua Computer ULTITOP DUAL D5
> 01 x Aqua Computer D5 fan mount 120 mm
> 01 x Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS
> 01 x Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis 480GTS
> 15 x Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM
> 12 x Optimus Flex Compression Fitting
> 02 x Optimus Professional Hose Clamp - 16mm - Six Pack
> 01 x Watercool HEATKILLER EPDM Tubing 16/10 (ID 3/8" - 5/8" OD) black - 3m Retailbox
> 04 x CPC NS4D17006 3/8" Hose Barb Valved Body
> 04 x CPC NS4D22006 3/8" Hose Barb Valved Insert
> 01 x Mayhems X1- Clear 5ltr
> 01 x Kingpin cooling KPx High Performance Thermal Compound 30G
> 
> That is, there would be two D5. Do you recommend changing from four sets of qds to six sets?


You should consider getting Tygon A-60-G tubing. It's made of norprene. Very low maintenance, no plasticizer, none of that crap. It's black though, maybe you won't like that.


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Do you know where you can buy those CPC QDCs other than the CPC site? It's either singles up to 3, or buy a pack of 25. And I just want to get 4, 2 for GPU, 2 for CPU. Not immediately finding anything in a google search.


So I have a local shop that I go to to get mine. I just call them a week in advanced and they place the order for me, then I go to pick them up (They don't have an online store unfortunately), and they are like a Plumbing shop or something like that, I just found them by chance. There is one more place though that I got CPC ones from online give me a min to see if I can dig them up, its been since last November since I purchased from them so I have to see if I can find a receipt to dig up the name.


----------



## acoustic

15 A12x25s.. holy hell LOL just ordered 6 and it came out to almost $200. Crazy!


----------



## sakete

acoustic said:


> 15 A12x25s.. holy hell LOL just ordered 6 and it came out to almost $200. Crazy!


They're frigging expensive, but definitely the best. I was waiting for the Chromax version myself, but those have been delayed until at least Q1, so I got the SilentWings 3 instead.


----------



## oreonutz

acoustic said:


> 15 A12x25s.. holy hell LOL just ordered 6 and it came out to almost $200. Crazy!





sakete said:


> They're frigging expensive, but definitely the best. I was waiting for the Chromax version myself, but those have been delayed until at least Q1, so I got the SilentWings 3 instead.


LOL! Someone on Amazon is trying to make a killing with those right now! LOL!


----------



## lb_felipe

sakete said:


> You should consider getting Tygon A-60-G tubing. It's made of norprene. Very low maintenance, no plasticizer, none of that crap. It's black though, maybe you won't like that.


Nice. The Optimus guy recommeds EPDM all the way. What is norprene is different in? 



acoustic said:


> 15 A12x25s.. holy hell LOL just ordered 6 and it came out to almost $200. Crazy!


Now I am thinking about it. The fans will cost me about $1k. What now?


----------



## oreonutz

lb_felipe said:


> Nice. The Optimus guy recommeds EPDM all the way. What is norprene is different in?
> 
> 
> Now I am thinking about it. The fans will cost me about $1k. What now?


$1k! How many Fans are you buying??? 50?


----------



## lb_felipe

oreonutz said:


> $1k! How many Fans are you buying??? 50?


Huh? fifteen of course. 30 bucks x 15 = 450 bucks. Add to that the cost of shipping, taxes, etc. About 100% increase.


----------



## oreonutz

damn... Sorry man.


----------



## Shawnb99

acoustic said:


> 15 A12x25s.. holy hell LOL just ordered 6 and it came out to almost $200. Crazy!


14 cost me $530.60 before taxes. I now have 30 of them in my loop



lb_felipe said:


> Nice. The Optimus guy recommeds EPDM all the way. What is norprene is different in?
> 
> 
> Now I am thinking about it. The fans will cost me about $1k. What now?


I'm at around 2k+ for fans so far


----------



## chibi

Shawnb99 said:


> 14 cost me $530.60 before taxes. I now have 30 of them in my loop
> 
> I'm at around 2k+ for fans so far



Show us some pics of your beast!


----------



## Shawnb99

I will once I actually get started on it lol. Waiting on my new distro plates. In total it'll be around 55 fans.


----------



## Thebc2

Lol I feel your pain, 33 in my build.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Shawnb99

Thebc2 said:


> Lol I feel your pain, 33 in my build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Nice. M8 wasn't big enough for me. I'd need 7 more fans if I didn't get the flex bay distro's. I'm hoping they look good


----------



## asdf893

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Slow news day, right? Oh yeah, AMD is bringing their A game. W are going to be making blocks for the new Radeon monsters. we're thinking the 6900xt is going to be a big overclocker based on the first numbers.
> 
> Of course, unknown if it's the same PCB or different, and what partner cards will look like, other than the tiny few leaks so far. Chances are our block will look like the Absolute 3000 since our new platform is made to be flexible. But unknown about capacitor size, inductors, etc. all that stuff that makes the 3000 cards really tricky to design around.
> 
> We'll be working to get samples, my guess is AMD isn't going to have the same low unit launch of NVIDIA or AMD Vega.
> 
> PUMPS: The "Optimus pump" is the standard Xylem D5 with SATA and PWM. Nothing fancy, no sleeve cables, no extra dials or things to break. We wanted to source the most pure version Xylem makes. We won't be making a mount for any other specific pumps out there, though we will, at some point, do a Foundation version of our pump/res that won't have that giant monoblock base, or XL cast acylic tube, so then you'll be able to use whatever pump fits the mounting. We will, however, always use metal-to-metal mounting, for reliability, though we'll try to keep clearances in mind for future products. But, again, this is in the future, right now we got GPU blocks to make


Are first batch of FTW3 waterblocks still be expected to arrive mid November? Your site says "ETA" so I'm hoping that means arriving at customers.


----------



## sakete

asdf893 said:


> Are first batch of FTW3 waterblocks still be expected to arrive mid November? Your site says "ETA" so I'm hoping that means arriving at customers.


It's Optimus, so don't count on it, haha.


----------



## Mroberts95

If Optimus ever makes a different res/res bottom. I might buy one at some point.


----------



## Shawnb99

I'm fine with the bottom, only D5 you can't use is the Next. I want a glass one. Too expensive otherwise if you need or use more then one


----------



## Mroberts95

Do they have a mount system for say mounting on a bottom rad or fan etc?


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah that's something else they need to add changing the bottom or not, they need more ways to mount it. I've never been a fan of mounting things to the radiators, I want unobstructed airflow or least as much as I can get


----------



## evilbob2200

lb_felipe said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> @Optimus WC;
> The EKWB EK-QDC 10mm Black has been discontinued (end of life). So I wonder if the following set works:
> 
> 04 x CPC NS4D17006 3/8" Hose Barb Valved Body
> 04 x CPC NS4D22006 3/8" Hose Barb Valved Insert
> 02 x Optimus Professional Hose Clamp - 16mm - Six Pack
> 
> The hose should be this: 01 x Watercool HEATKILLER EPDM Tubing 16/10 (ID 3/8" - 5/8" OD) black - 3m Retailbox
> 
> What do you say about it?


will batch 2 have any raw copper? I really want a raw copper ftw3 block to go with my raw am4 block from you guys.


----------



## Mroberts95

I think on their twitter they said nickel again but they might comment here as well.


----------



## zervun

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah that's something else they need to add changing the bottom or not, they need more ways to mount it. I've never been a fan of mounting things to the radiators, I want unobstructed airflow or least as much as I can get


Ditto this, I don't like mounting to rads. I rather craft up a custom piece (have done both aluminum and acrylic) to hold the res/d5's.

Unfortunately the next D5's are wierd shaped with their bottom piece.

This is something I'd like to see from optimus. I've obviously done this with 100% awesome cad drawing skills.

With this you get optimus awesome quality acrylic with screws into metal but still can fit wierd pumps like the D5 next.

The metal pieces interlock. you could use the back mount for vertical mount as itself or use the bottom piece for mountint to the bottom of something.

The suqare boxes with lines are screws -


----------



## lb_felipe

@Optimus WC

@Optimus WC;

Which of these is the best water cooling hose in the world?

01 x Watercool HEATKILLER EPDM Tubing 16/10 (ID 3/8" - 5/8" OD) black - 3m Retailbox

01 x Tygon A-60-G


----------



## ThrashZone

lb_felipe said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> @Optimus WC;
> 
> Which of these is the best water cooling hose in the world?
> 
> 01 x Watercool HEATKILLER EPDM Tubing 16/10 (ID 3/8" - 5/8" OD) black - 3m Retailbox
> 
> 01 x Tygon A-60-G


Hi,
ModMyMods 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD Flexible PVC Tubing - Crystal Clear (MOD-0003) - 3/8” ID x 5/8” OD Soft Tubing - Tubing ModMyMods.com - PC Watercooling Parts and Accessories

Along with the best fluid 
ModMyMods ModWater PC Coolant- Clear – 1 Liter (MOD-0275) - Clear Liquid - Liquid ModMyMods.com - PC Watercooling Parts and Accessories


----------



## lb_felipe

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> ModMyMods 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD Flexible PVC Tubing - Crystal Clear (MOD-0003) - 3/8” ID x 5/8” OD Soft Tubing - Tubing ModMyMods.com - PC Watercooling Parts and Accessories
> 
> Along with the best fluid
> ModMyMods ModWater PC Coolant- Clear – 1 Liter (MOD-0275) - Clear Liquid - Liquid ModMyMods.com - PC Watercooling Parts and Accessories


Thank you. Why do you prefere those to the Watercool, Tygon and Mayhems (fluid) ones?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Played with opacities to make a cool transition between the FTW3 cooler and the Optimus block.

Check it out here

__
http://instagr.am/p/CG8G2CuHAv5/


----------



## ThrashZone

lb_felipe said:


> Thank you. Why do you prefere those to the Watercool, Tygon and Mayhems (fluid) ones?


Hi,
Fluid is mayhems XT-1 I believe made by mods in the USA
Tubing is USA local and is very clear mods recommendation.
So far both are working out pretty well 6-10 months can't remember.


----------



## EniGma1987

Personally, I just use some Primochill tubing and basic Aquatuning fluid. I go 2 years or so between flushing the liquid out. And I only do it that often because after 2 years the fluid in my reservoir has dropped by half due to evaporation in the system and/or I am changing out a GPU for an upgrade. Never had a problem of any kind, and fluid is perfectly clean and clear as the day I put it in, and blocks always are too. You dont really need anything special or "best"


----------



## Recipe7

LiquidHaus said:


> Played with opacities to make a cool transition between the FTW3 cooler and the Optimus block.
> 
> Check it out here
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CG8G2CuHAv5/


Pretty dope


----------



## dante`afk

having hard time to decide between heatkiller IV and the optimus block for my upcoming 5950x.

why are there no official reviews?


----------



## Shawnb99

I want a Sig V2 block for the 5950x. @Optimus WC Make it happen!


----------



## Section31

dante`afk said:


> having hard time to decide between heatkiller IV and the optimus block for my upcoming 5950x.
> 
> why are there no official reviews?


There is one. Go look in Techn watercooling section. It’s done by Helden Germany. Igorslab also. Assume the magnitude and optimus in very close range









TechN CPU Waterblock AM4 im Test


Testbericht und Review des TechN Wasserkühler für AM4. Wie gut ist der "Made in Germany" Wasserkühler in Sachen Kühlung und Durchfluss?




hardware-helden.de













TechN CPU Waterblock against Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro and EK Quantum Magnitude - AMD’s Zen3 may come | igor'sLAB


The new CPU waterblock from TechN (here as AM4 version for 99 Euro RRP) has to prove itself in today's test with the quasi classic cooler in the form of the Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro AMD (from…




www.igorslab.de


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I want a Sig V2 block for the 5950x. @Optimus WC Make it happen!


That would be nice. Sig v2 GPU block would be better lol


----------



## Kriant

I have been using Optimus WB Acrylic + Nickel on my Ryzen 3950x. I've received this block as a gift back in January. In July I was changing my case and my radiators as well as pumps and reservoirs and thus finally installed this block. I've been in process of putting a 3090 FTW3 Ultra in my rig today and took a quick look at the optimus block. I am getting some weird yellow/green/copper-looking color on it. I am using a filter for liquid going into the block (paranoid about cleaning it due to fin density) and using Phobia ZuperZero Clear. Any idea what is going on?


----------



## Bartdude

When you added the new rads did you use Mayhems Blitz part 1 to clean them? Some manufacturers Rads are dirtier than others and un properly cleaned are probably the biggest cause of unclean loops, that and not using corrosion/algae inhibitors with DW/DI water. Only thing I can think of that may have contaminated the loop, which in turn may have altered the properties of the Phobya ZuperZero and stripped the nickel off the fins causing copper oxidization?
I'd recommend a full strip down, clean the rads with Mayhems Blitz part 1, then run part 2 in the loop. Whatever is going on is not good that's for sure 😕


----------



## jincuteguy

Anyone experienced with any of the Optimus hardline compression fittings? I searched google and found no reviews, only cpu block review.


----------



## Shawnb99

jincuteguy said:


> Anyone experienced with any of the Optimus hardline compression fittings? I searched google and found no reviews, only cpu block review.


They are amazing fittings. Am very impressed with them


----------



## jincuteguy

Shawnb99 said:


> They are amazing fittings. Am very impressed with them


Are they better than those EKWB fittings or Bitspower fittings? thx


----------



## Shawnb99

jincuteguy said:


> Are they better than those EKWB fittings or Bitspower fittings? thx


A thousand times better then anything EK can make. Looks to be better then bitspower as well


----------



## sakete

Bartdude said:


> When you added the new rads did you use Mayhems Blitz part 1 to clean them? Some manufacturers Rads are dirtier than others and un properly cleaned are probably the biggest cause of unclean loops, that and not using corrosion/algae inhibitors with DW/DI water. Only thing I can think of that may have contaminated the loop, which in turn may have altered the properties of the Phobya ZuperZero and stripped the nickel off the fins causing copper oxidization?
> I'd recommend a full strip down, clean the rads with Mayhems Blitz part 1, then run part 2 in the loop. Whatever is going on is not good that's for sure [emoji53]


Yes, what he said. It's likely deposits coming from other parts of your loop, but only way to know for sure is to dismantle everything and do a thorough cleaning. Take apart the Optimus block and clean it with a toothbrush or something and see if it will all come off.


----------



## Section31

jincuteguy said:


> Are they better than those EKWB fittings or Bitspower fittings? thx


Yes they are. Phantek is suppose to be good too. Just are you willing to pay those prices. Phantek and Optimus are the most expensive in terms of fittings


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus needs better coloured fittings. That black hardline is ugly with the stripe.
One solid colour for me please.


----------



## evilbob2200

wonder if batch 2 will still be goin up today for the ftw3 blocks


----------



## Mroberts95

Are they supposed t


evilbob2200 said:


> wonder if batch 2 will still be goin up today for the ftw3 blocks


I hope it does for those who missed it the first time. Will also be nice if my block still ships out today  fingers crossed for both.


----------



## evilbob2200

Mroberts95 said:


> Are they supposed t
> 
> I hope it does for those who missed it the first time. Will also be nice if my block still ships out today  fingers crossed for both.


saw them say a few pages back that they were shooting for putting batch two up today.


----------



## Mroberts95

evilbob2200 said:


> saw them say a few pages back that they were shooting for putting batch two up today.


Oops I went and read back but didnt delete the first part of my response. Yeah it looks like today was for Batch 2


----------



## CluckyTaco

LiquidHaus said:


> Played with opacities to make a cool transition between the FTW3 cooler and the Optimus block.
> 
> Check it out here
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CG8G2CuHAv5/


Thanks for this. Gives more perspective as to how much those terminals add to the width.


----------



## zervun

sakete said:


> Yes, what he said. It's likely deposits coming from other parts of your loop, but only way to know for sure is to dismantle everything and do a thorough cleaning. Take apart the Optimus block and clean it with a toothbrush or something and see if it will all come off.


Of note for my issue the toothbrush wasn't quite doing it (I got a charcoal pack off of amazon). I ended up getting an ultrasonic cleaner and that did the job for the most part.


----------



## Mroberts95

zervun said:


> Of note for my issue the toothbrush wasn't quite doing it (I got a charcoal pack off of amazon). I ended up getting an ultrasonic cleaner and that did the job for the most part.


I am tempted to buy one of those to clean fittings, blocks etc.


----------



## CluckyTaco

zervun said:


> Of note for my issue the toothbrush wasn't quite doing it (I got a charcoal pack off of amazon). I ended up getting an ultrasonic cleaner and that did the job for the most part.


Care to share the link to the one you used?


----------



## evilbob2200

CluckyTaco said:


> Care to share the link to the one you used?


they make smaller ones thatre designed for cleaning jewelry thatre prob perfect for blocks, fittings, etc


----------



## Mroberts95

Thanks!


----------



## dwolvin

seconded on 'cheap jewlery cleaners are handy'.


----------



## asdf893

Just filled my new GTX560 with distilled white vinegar. I hope the advice a few pages ago was sound!


----------



## dwolvin

Hopefully not straight, I use about 10-15% and hot distilled water, shake the heck out of it, dump & repeat a couple of times, and then RINSE THE HECK OUT OF IT with more distilled.


----------



## asdf893

dwolvin said:


> Hopefully not straight, I use about 10-15% and hot distilled water, shake the heck out of it, dump & repeat a couple of times, and then RINSE THE HECK OUT OF IT with more distilled.


yes straight.


----------



## dwolvin

Well, there are at least as many ways to clean a radiator as there are people cleaning them. Just make sure you get the vinegar out completely.


----------



## Shawnb99

asdf893 said:


> yes straight.


When flushing after add some baking soda to counteract the acid from the vinegar


----------



## asdf893

dwolvin said:


> Well, there are at least as many ways to clean a radiator as there are people cleaning them. Just make sure you get the vinegar out completely.


I let it sit for an hour, now I'm rinsing out a few times with hot tap water.


----------



## evilbob2200

Shawnb99 said:


> When flushing after add some baking soda to counteract the acid from the vinegar


id go teh extra mile and do a round of distilled water and dawn dish soap as well


----------



## dwolvin

I honestly don't know if Bob is being evil or not...


----------



## evilbob2200

dawn is pretty popular for cleaning rads on /r/watercooling on reddit lol


----------



## Shawnb99

dwolvin said:


> I honestly don't know if Bob is being evil or not...


He seems helpful but that could part of some evil plan I don’t understand


----------



## dwolvin

Fair enough, I never use soap around my w/c stuff, but I have to admit (see the number of rad cleaning opinion comment before) that it's just a knee-jerk reaction. 😁


----------



## evilbob2200

id argue soap is prob easier to cleanse than an acid haha


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
On ocn it's dawn ultra so get with it reddit lol


----------



## Mroberts95

Whooo


----------



## evilbob2200

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> On ocn it's dawn ultra so get with it reddit lol


lol


----------



## Mroberts95

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, monday we were deep into making blocks  We're on track to ship on time! XC3 blocks will prob be another 2 weeks behind the FTW3 block launch.
> 
> We're aiming for FTW3 Batch 2 this friday.
> 
> For the gpu kidney donors, Mr. Roberts first block will ship out later this week, then Sakete's XC3 will be once we do final modifications for the XC3 block


Looks like batch 2 is up


----------



## jincuteguy

Shawnb99 said:


> A thousand times better then anything EK can make. Looks to be better then bitspower as well


Oh nice, Im about to order some but was hesitate cause I never heard of the brand and there was no reviews at all online. I wonder why there's no reviews of these fittings from big youtubers like Jaytwocentz


----------



## Mroberts95

Batch 2 is up for anybody who missed out the first time.


----------



## Keith Myers

Only for those who have managed to snag any cards.


----------



## oreonutz

Batch 2 Is Out GUYS! Snap em up while you Can!!!


----------



## oreonutz

jincuteguy said:


> Oh nice, Im about to order some but was hesitate cause I never heard of the brand and there was no reviews at all online. I wonder why there's no reviews of these fittings from big youtubers like Jaytwocentz


There will be in Time. Right now literally Everything they Make is Sold Immediately, so it doesn't make Business sense to make a big Marketing Push until they have the Stock Saved up to satisfy the demand that a video from someone like Jayz 2 Cents would create. There will be in time, don't worry. For Now, the best thing you can do is look at User Testimonials, those are often FAR more Trustworthy anyway, because these are people who spent there actual hard earned money on the product, so they are going to tell you how they feel about it, the good bad, and ugly, far more than a Reviewer who gets it for free.


----------



## sakete

Hey @Optimus WC , nice that you guys are running batch 2, but how about you ship me back my XC3 card like you promised? It's been 4 days now since you said you'd ship it back.


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Hey @Optimus WC , nice that you guys are running batch 2, but how about you ship me back my XC3 card like you promised? It's been 4 days now since you said you'd ship it back.


I promise you they are working on it. You will be getting your email soon. I know its frustrating, trust me I get it. They are working on it though.


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> I promise you they are working on it. You will be getting your email soon. I know its frustrating, trust me I get it. They are working on it though.


Ha! I never realized putting a card in a box and slapping a shipping label on it would take more than a day. They sure can continue to take people's money though! And posting about their products.


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Ha! I never realized putting a card in a box and slapping a shipping label on it would take more than a day. They sure can continue to take people's money though! And posting about their products.


Yeah, From your angle I can definitely see that. Trust me, you will get your card brother.


----------



## EniGma1987

asdf893 said:


> I let it sit for an hour, now I'm rinsing out a few times with hot tap water.


So you clean it all out with vinegar and then go and put water with trace minerals and possibly some microbials right back in?
Seems legit.


----------



## jincuteguy

oreonutz said:


> There will be in Time. Right now literally Everything they Make is Sold Immediately, so it doesn't make Business sense to make a big Marketing Push until they have the Stock Saved up to satisfy the demand that a video from someone like Jayz 2 Cents would create. There will be in time, don't worry. For Now, the best thing you can do is look at User Testimonials, those are often FAR more Trustworthy anyway, because these are people who spent there actual hard earned money on the product, so they are going to tell you how they feel about it, the good bad, and ugly, far more than a Reviewer who gets it for free.


You said everything they make is Sold Immediately? So all the fittings im seeing on their website right now is not In stock? or?


----------



## jincuteguy

I wonder if anyone did a comparision between Optimus Sig V2 Intel cpu block vs EKWB Quantum Magnetude in terms of performance


----------



## Keith Myers

Several forum members have in fact done performance comparisons between the Optimus blocks and the new EKWB Quantum Magnitude blocks.

Search the forums.


----------



## ThrashZone

jincuteguy said:


> I wonder if anyone did a comparision between Optimus Sig V2 Intel cpu block vs EKWB Quantum Magnetude in terms of performance


Hi,
Only 2066 socket testing seeing EK mag is only good for one socket 2066 or 1151/ 1200 otherwise I might of done testing already on my 10900k
Thought about drilling 4 holes on my 2066 socket ek mag but just have never gotten around to it was way too hot anyway until now so might get around to it sooner or later.
I wouldn't expect as much difference on 10900k seeing it's a smaller chip.

9940x testing links are on my signature
I have my optimus foundation on my 10900k now and sigV2 on my 9940x atm
EK magnitude back in the box unused.

To give you an idea EK mag all nickel 250.us couldn't beat Optimus foundation 120.us lol


----------



## jincuteguy

Keith Myers said:


> Several forum members have in fact done performance comparisons between the Optimus blocks and the new EKWB Quantum Magnitude blocks.
> 
> Search the forums.


I did search the forums. Only thing I found was Optimus V2 vs Heatkiller block, couldn't find any with EKWB Magnitude block.


----------



## jincuteguy

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Only 2066 socket testing seeing EK mag is only good for one socket 2066 or 1151/ 1200 otherwise I might of done testing already on my 10900k
> Thought about drilling 4 holes on my 2066 socket ek mag but just have never gotten around to it was way too hot anyway until now so might get around to it sooner or later.
> I wouldn't expect as much difference on 10900k seeing it's a smaller chip.
> 
> 9940x testing links are on my signature
> I have my optimus foundation on my 10900k now and sigV2 on my 9940x atm
> EK magnitude back in the box unused.
> 
> To give you an idea EK mag all nickel 250.us couldn't beat Optimus foundation 120.us lol


Nice man. So you're saying I should get the Optimus either Foundation or Sig V2 over EKWB Magnitude block? I have a 10920X 12core cpu from Intel. You think I should just get the Sig V2 or the Foundation?


----------



## ThrashZone

jincuteguy said:


> Nice man. So you're saying I should get the Optimus either Foundation or Sig V2 over EKWB Magnitude block? I have a 10920X 12core cpu from Intel. You think I should just get the Sig V2 or the Foundation?


Hi,
I had contact issues with the sigV2 
Foundation was perfect out the box so it would be my suggestion.


----------



## ThrashZone

jincuteguy said:


> Nice man. So you're saying I should get the Optimus either Foundation or Sig V2 over EKWB Magnitude block? I have a 10920X 12core cpu from Intel. You think I should just get the Sig V2 or the Foundation?


Here's my 10900k R20 at 5.3 temps... with foundation on it.


----------



## jincuteguy

ThrashZone said:


> Here's my 10900k R20 at 5.3 temps... with foundation on it.
> View attachment 2463975


Damn that's insane, nice dude! What radiators do you have in your loop? And what brands? And are you running hardline or soft tubing. And are you using Optimus fittings also?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Looks like I'll be doing a full optimus build this time. Pre ordered the FTW3 block for batch 2 and ordered a 12" res/pump combo and foundation cpu block. If they were selling 14mm od hardline fittings I would buy those too.


----------



## ThrashZone

jincuteguy said:


> Damn that's insane, nice dude! What radiators do you have in your loop? And what brands? And are you running hardline or soft tubing. And are you using Optimus fittings also?


Builds are also on my sig just expand it


----------



## zervun

CluckyTaco said:


> Care to share the link to the one you used?


I got this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GA1I3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this washing compound



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012GQOBM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Of note on the compound - I first cleaned it with just water. This wasn't getting off all the oil probably from the res. I used the Master Stages at a very little percentage and it worked great.

I also threw a bunch of nickle fittings in to test (for a long time like a couple hours) to make sure it wouldn't damage nickel (it says it is safe for all kinds of metal). They came out all perfect without issue so I did the block.

Also after done, I washed it with mild dish soap and rinsed off a ton, then I put it back in the ultrasonic with only distilled water and did that for quite a while.

This is what it looks like after the ultrasonic cleaning - to the naked eye it looks pretty much brand new (ignore the little dent thing it came that way). Close up it still shows some stuff in the groves and some blemishes but that only shows up on the camera and I think maybe that was what it was like new at least for some other spots on it.

I do need to get another block for my 2nd threadripper system so will do a cross and compare new.































I also took a picture of my bitspower filters (which I replaced) man there was a ton of crap in there - also here is a pick of what it looked like before


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Little dirty in there.
These are better won't completely clog so fast plus you can see in it 
Spectre 2369 Premium Clearview Fuel Filter


----------



## zervun

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Little dirty in there.
> These are better won't completely clog so fast plus you can see in it
> Spectre 2369 Premium Clearview Fuel Filter


Ya those are on my list I just have to figure out how to fit it in. It's all hardtubing on half of my loop. I'm assuming those don't screw into g1/4s?

What metal is in that? it isn't aluminum is it?


----------



## ThrashZone

zervun said:


> Ya those are on my list I just have to figure out how to fit it in. It's all hardtubing on half of my loop. I'm assuming those don't screw into g1/4s?
> 
> What metal is in that? it isn't aluminum is it?


Hi,
Don't know you'd have to ask them chrome steal I assume.
It's only a temp thing not permanent.
I'd just have one soft tubing route some where on quick disconnects.


----------



## Section31

jincuteguy said:


> You said everything they make is Sold Immediately? So all the fittings im seeing on their website right now is not In stock? or?


I did link reviews comparing them on am4. Its found in the techn forum. 
Fittings contact them through e-mail to order.


----------



## asdf893

EniGma1987 said:


> So you clean it all out with vinegar and then go and put water with trace minerals and possibly some microbials right back in?
> Seems legit.


what's your point?


----------



## Mroberts95

Welp decided to move over to ZMT and 10/16mm tubing, no I can use some QDC and clamps from Optimus.


----------



## EniGma1987

asdf893 said:


> what's your point?


Why are you even bothering to clean the radiator or care about cleaning it at all when you just went and intentionally made it dirty again right after?


----------



## Sir Beregond

EniGma1987 said:


> So you clean it all out with vinegar and then go and put water with trace minerals and possibly some microbials right back in?
> Seems legit.


Oof, yeah, distilled after using vinegar...


----------



## Section31

jincuteguy said:


> Damn that's insane, nice dude! What radiators do you have in your loop? And what brands? And are you running hardline or soft tubing. And are you using Optimus fittings also?


You realize thrashzone is one of the users with external radiators right. One Mo-ra3 360/420 is quite a lot of cooling when combined with internal radiators. One Mo-ra3 420 and 2 x 360mm rads keep the water loop temperature ambient room for an 3950x plus 2080ti. So lowest possible temps before you need to go to chiller


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> You realize thrashzone is one of the users with external radiators right. One Mo-ra3 360/420 is quite a lot of cooling when combined with internal radiators. One Mo-ra3 420 and 2 x 360mm rads keep the water loop temperature ambient room for an 3950x plus 2080ti. So lowest possible temps before you need to go to chiller


Hi,
Testing on 2066 socket was not using any mora 360mm rads.
Those were just 2-280GTX hardware labs rads.
Only 1200 socket but no real testing besides doing 5.3 lol it was summer time not a good time for electric bills


----------



## Hawkjoss

So I decided to change my EKWB Velocity to Optimus Foundation CPU block. I did some tests so someone can find it useful.

*Pros:*
Cooling ability (see below)
Very good mounting mechanism ( no backplate )

*Cons:*
More restrictive flow design
No RGB

I had time for OCCT only, each run was 30min. long to ensure radiator/water heat soak. I've tested the Velocity yesterday and Optimus today, so to avoid confusion with different ambient temps I've used ▲T in my template. For those who are interested in mean temps, all 4 pics of HWmonitor attached with all needed info.

I am very happy with the result, and believe it is not the best Optimus can show. I still have a lot of air in the system and microbubbles in the CPU block, bc I needed to drain the system completely to swap the blocks. Additionally, my 3yo son was helping me with the liquid metal application (practicing "gentle hands"😄), so there might be an improvement there as well. Once the system is fully bled, I will do one more round of tests with more software like P95, CB, and RealBench


----------



## Mroberts95

That’s a good review if I’ve seen one

In depth so thank you


----------



## jincuteguy

Hawkjoss said:


> So I decided to change my EKWB Velocity to Optimus Foundation CPU block. I did some tests so someone can find it useful.
> 
> *Pros:*
> Cooling ability (see below)
> Very good mounting mechanism ( no backplate )
> 
> *Cons:*
> More restrictive flow design
> No RGB
> 
> I had time for OCCT only. I've tested the Velocity yesterday and Optimus today, so to avoid confusion with different ambient temps I've used ▲T in my template. For those who are interested in mean temps, all 4 pics of HWmonitor attached with all needed info.
> 
> I am very happy with the result, and believe it is not the best Optimus can show. I still have a lot of air in the system and microbubbles in the CPU block, bc I needed to drain the system completely to swap the blocks. Additionally, my 3yo son was helping me with the liquid metal application (practicing "gentle hands"😄), so there might be an improvement there as well. Once the system is fully bled, I will do one more round of tests with more software like P95, CB, and RealBench
> 
> View attachment 2464111
> 
> View attachment 2464112
> View attachment 2464113
> View attachment 2464114
> View attachment 2464115


NIce comparison dude, good job! You said the Optimus Foundation has a very good mounting mechanism and no Bkacplate. No back plate on a Z390 board? I thought only 2066 required no backplate


----------



## asdf893

Sir Beregond said:


> Oof, yeah, distilled after using vinegar...





EniGma1987 said:


> Why are you even bothering to clean the radiator or care about cleaning it at all when you just went and intentionally made it dirty again right after?





Sir Beregond said:


> Oof, yeah, distilled after using vinegar...


Oops. I thought there the posts here a few pages ago said white vinegar, few rinses with hot top water, then test loop with distilled water and filter to catch any radiator crud. Well, that's what I'm doing right now at least...


----------



## Recipe7

Hawkjoss said:


> So I decided to change my EKWB Velocity to Optimus Foundation CPU block. I did some tests so someone can find it useful.
> 
> *Pros:*
> Cooling ability (see below)
> Very good mounting mechanism ( no backplate )
> 
> *Cons:*
> More restrictive flow design
> No RGB
> 
> I had time for OCCT only. I've tested the Velocity yesterday and Optimus today, so to avoid confusion with different ambient temps I've used ▲T in my template. For those who are interested in mean temps, all 4 pics of HWmonitor attached with all needed info.
> 
> I am very happy with the result, and believe it is not the best Optimus can show. I still have a lot of air in the system and microbubbles in the CPU block, bc I needed to drain the system completely to swap the blocks. Additionally, my 3yo son was helping me with the liquid metal application (practicing "gentle hands"😄), so there might be
> 
> View attachment 2464111
> 
> View attachment 2464112
> View attachment 2464113
> View attachment 2464114
> View attachment 2464115





Hawkjoss said:


> So I decided to change my EKWB Velocity to Optimus Foundation CPU block. I did some tests so someone can find it useful.


thanks for the write up, very useful. I’m looking forward to replacing my 4 year old ek supremacy block with the foundation. I’m certain I’ll be seeing even better numbers.


----------



## BMDJag

asdf893 said:


> Oops. I thought there the posts here a few pages ago said white vinegar, few rinses with hot top water, then test loop with distilled water and filter to catch any radiator crud. Well, that's what I'm doing right now at least...


Pretty sure they are saying you should be rinsing with distilled water and not the hot tap water. The tap water will reintroduce containments into the rads. Your test loop will then just cycle the contaminants around and around and you wouldn't be removing them completely, even with the filter. With that said I would assume it would be cleaner then when you first got it but wouldn't be completely clean. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong here guys.


----------



## Mroberts95

Hoping for good news tomorrow 

here is a picture they posted on Reddit yesterday afternoon


----------



## darkangelism

whew i am back after a week without power


----------



## sakete

darkangelism said:


> whew i am back after a week without power


I bet that left you feeling kinda powerless


----------



## jincuteguy

So I'm looking at these Hardline and Soft tube Compression Fittings from Optimus website. Are these ready to ship if I place an order? Anyone confirm?


----------



## LiquidHaus

asdf893 said:


> Oops. I thought there the posts here a few pages ago said white vinegar, few rinses with hot top water, then test loop with distilled water and filter to catch any radiator crud. Well, that's what I'm doing right now at least...


Yeah, I was one of those people who suggested it. I said distilled white vinegar first; fill up radiator completely with it and let sit for 20-30 minutes. Then rinse out with running hot tap water for 15 minutes. Then fill completely with distilled and shake around - repeat that 5-6 times to get the remnants of the tap water out. Then air dry. Been doing it this way for a literal decade without issue.

It sounds like you got some of the suggestions mixed up. No worries, just take in help carefully. Cross verify with other sites too if you feel unsure.

Also you guys need to lighten up a bit. Help first, don’t criticize first. You attacked this guy a few times about this radiator cleansing topic.


----------



## gengar

jincuteguy said:


> So I'm looking at these Hardline and Soft tube Compression Fittings from Optimus website. Are these ready to ship if I place an order? Anyone confirm?


Definitely not, fittings were one of the items I was quoted 3+ week lead time on even if "in stock" on the website.


----------



## jincuteguy

gengar said:


> Definitely not, fittings were one of the items I was quoted 3+ week lead time on even if "in stock" on the website.


Like how long a go did they quote you? Did you email them or soemthing?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Hooking a hose to and blasting hot tap water through a rad there is nothing wrong with using it even optimus said the same thing 
It's just not the last thing you do but is the first thing worth doing with new or old rads.


----------



## gengar

jincuteguy said:


> Like how long a go did they quote you? Did you email them or soemthing?


I placed an order, heard nothing from Optimus, sent e-mails, still nothing, canceled order, then Optimus finally followed up after a few weeks saying at least 3 weeks to fulfill items even if in-stock. That e-mail was about two weeks ago.


----------



## Mroberts95

Fittings at PPCS


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Patience is a virtue but maybe amazon has some for sell lol


----------



## Mroberts95

Check Titanrig and Performance PC, I know they sell Optimus stuff but limited stock.


----------



## Mroberts95

jincuteguy said:


> So I'm looking at these Hardline and Soft tube Compression Fittings from Optimus website. Are these ready to ship if I place an order? Anyone confirm?


Looks like Performance PC has the 6 pack of compression fittings in stock for a few different colors.









Optimus Flex Compression 10/16MM Fitting Satin Silver Finish - 6 Pack


With ultra-precision machining, extreme corrosion resistant Pro-XE nickel, plasticizer-free o-rings and super clean looks, Optimus fittings are so good we back them with a 10 year warranty.




www.performance-pcs.com












Optimus Flex Compression 10/16MM Fitting PRO-XE Nickel Finish - 6 Pack


With ultra-precision machining, extreme corrosion resistant Pro-XE nickel, plasticizer-free o-rings and super clean looks, Optimus fittings are so good we back them with a 10 year warranty.




www.performance-pcs.com












Optimus Hardline Compression Fitting Satin Silver Aluminum 1/2" - 6 Pack


The best hardline fitting ever made, period. The patent-pending Optimus gasket design is exponentially stronger than any o-ring design ever made. Our 1/8" (3.2mm) thick gasket provides huge surface area to clamp the hard tubing. With ultra-precision machining, extreme corrosion resistant Pro-XE...




www.performance-pcs.com












Optimus Flex Compression 10/16MM Fitting Satin Silver Finish - 6 Pack


With ultra-precision machining, extreme corrosion resistant Pro-XE nickel, plasticizer-free o-rings and super clean looks, Optimus fittings are so good we back them with a 10 year warranty.




www.performance-pcs.com





I would double check with PPCS but if they have em in stock in Florida they usually ship same or next day!


----------



## Hawkjoss

Hawkjoss said:


> So I decided to change my EKWB Velocity to Optimus Foundation CPU block. I did some tests so someone can find it useful.
> 
> *Pros:*
> Cooling ability (see below)
> Very good mounting mechanism ( no backplate )
> 
> *Cons:*
> More restrictive flow design
> No RGB
> 
> I had time for OCCT only, each run was 30min. long to ensure radiator/water heat soak. I've tested the Velocity yesterday and Optimus today, so to avoid confusion with different ambient temps I've used ▲T in my template. For those who are interested in mean temps, all 4 pics of HWmonitor attached with all needed info.
> 
> I am very happy with the result, and believe it is not the best Optimus can show. I still have a lot of air in the system and microbubbles in the CPU block, bc I needed to drain the system completely to swap the blocks. Additionally, my 3yo son was helping me with the liquid metal application (practicing "gentle hands"😄), so there might be an improvement there as well. Once the system is fully bled, I will do one more round of tests with more software like P95, CB, and RealBench
> 
> View attachment 2464111
> 
> View attachment 2464112
> View attachment 2464113
> View attachment 2464114
> View attachment 2464115


decided to re-mount the block today.
Well, it seems I'd screw up the LM application - core 4 and 2 are running way hotter than others. in general, it seems like "even" cores are running hotter than "odd" cores.
Does anyone have to die mapping pictures? I wonder where those cores are located so it will help me chase down the problem. ( i found only the pic with cores layout but they are not numbered ) 

Anyway, the results are pretty interesting. Below is my report for stock 9900K


----------



## Optimus WC

Hawkjoss said:


> decided to re-mount the block today.
> Well, it seems I'd screw up the LM application - core 4 and 2 are running way hotter than others. in general, it seems like "even" cores are running hotter than "odd" cores.
> Does anyone have to die mapping pictures? I wonder where those cores are located so it will help me chase down the problem. ( i found only the pic with cores layout but they are not numbered )
> 
> Anyway, the results are pretty interesting. Below is my report for stock 9900K
> 
> View attachment 2464238
> 
> 
> View attachment 2464239
> View attachment 2464240
> View attachment 2464241
> View attachment 2464242


Hey there, nice results  And LM is extremely, extremely variable. For benchmarking, you need to do a half dozen mounts and remounts to get a good idea of actual temp spread. For benchmarking two blocks, easier to get a baseline with paste like KPX or MX-4 and then use that as a reference to get the best LM performance possible.


----------



## jincuteguy

Mroberts95 said:


> Looks like Performance PC has the 6 pack of compression fittings in stock for a few different colors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimus Flex Compression 10/16MM Fitting Satin Silver Finish - 6 Pack
> 
> 
> With ultra-precision machining, extreme corrosion resistant Pro-XE nickel, plasticizer-free o-rings and super clean looks, Optimus fittings are so good we back them with a 10 year warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimus Flex Compression 10/16MM Fitting PRO-XE Nickel Finish - 6 Pack
> 
> 
> With ultra-precision machining, extreme corrosion resistant Pro-XE nickel, plasticizer-free o-rings and super clean looks, Optimus fittings are so good we back them with a 10 year warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimus Hardline Compression Fitting Satin Silver Aluminum 1/2" - 6 Pack
> 
> 
> The best hardline fitting ever made, period. The patent-pending Optimus gasket design is exponentially stronger than any o-ring design ever made. Our 1/8" (3.2mm) thick gasket provides huge surface area to clamp the hard tubing. With ultra-precision machining, extreme corrosion resistant Pro-XE...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimus Flex Compression 10/16MM Fitting Satin Silver Finish - 6 Pack
> 
> 
> With ultra-precision machining, extreme corrosion resistant Pro-XE nickel, plasticizer-free o-rings and super clean looks, Optimus fittings are so good we back them with a 10 year warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would double check with PPCS but if they have em in stock in Florida they usually ship same or next day!


Nice man, thank you! CAn you explain why do they have a 1/2" size? I mean why can't they do it in mm? I thought they have 12mm, 14mm, and 16mm tubing size for hardline?


----------



## Optimus WC

jincuteguy said:


> Nice man, thank you! CAn you explain why do they have a 1/2" size? I mean why can't they do it in mm? I thought they have 12mm, 14mm, and 16mm tubing size for hardline?


Hey there, we do 1/2" because it's the US  So some want to use copper pipe or other tubing. Primochill is the best source for 1/2". We have metrics available, the website just isn't updated. 12mm and 14mm are in stock, 16mm are coming.


----------



## Hawkjoss

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, nice results  And LM is extremely, extremely variable. For benchmarking, you need to do a half dozen mounts and remounts to get a good idea of actual temp spread. For benchmarking two blocks, easier to get a baseline with paste like KPX or MX-4 and then use that as a reference to get the best LM performance possible.


Thank you! As i have a delided chip, regular TIM is not an option for me.
the block is definitely performing better then Velocity, despite my not straight hands.
I am running Realbench 2.56 now at 5.0 with no AVX offset at 1.264V and i am getting same temps i got on Velocity running 4.9 at 1.210V.
great job Optimus, you got me as a customer
Waiting on 3070 availability and your blocks


----------



## Driosenth

Hello,
Question for Optimus, would it be possible to have cutouts in either the acrylic top or aluminum backplate of the Strix Water-blocks for the voltage regulator i²c headers, or has the CAD/CAM been finalized? 

I believe they are the standard 0.1" pitch pins. So each 3x1 connector would have 0.3x0.1" footprint. I don't know what positional tolerances the pins would have in the through-holes or the tolerances on your blocks with respect to the mount on the PCB, but a 0.5x0.3" cutout centered on the middle of the three pins would almost certainly give enough space even in the worst case mounting and soldering scenario.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hawkjoss said:


> Thank you! As i have a delided chip, regular TIM is not an option for me.
> the block is definitely performing better then Velocity, despite my not straight hands.
> I am running Realbench 2.56 now at 5.0 with no AVX offset at 1.264V and i am getting same temps i got on Velocity running 4.9 at 1.210V.
> great job Optimus, you got me as a customer
> Waiting on 3070 availability and your blocks


Hi,
One advantage to a 9900k is the die is vertical
Your temp spread is pretty tight but you can bet contact isn't as good as the middle

SigV2 has a ton of blow in the cold plate meaning the top or bottom would be tough to get that contact on fully.
I personally have to adjust mine but that was for a 9940x.


----------



## Section31

Anyone confirm that secret EKWB LInus had for his recent 10900K with Cpu temps of 1degrees is some new WIP Peltier Water Block (Generic CPU Block + Miniature Peltier)


----------



## dwolvin

No info here, but I'd bet against. Peltier coolers seem cool but have never been worth the effort in actual use (imho-obv).


----------



## LiquidHaus

Section31 said:


> Anyone confirm that secret EKWB LInus had for his recent 10900K with Cpu temps of 1degrees is some new WIP Peltier Water Block (Generic CPU Block + Miniature Peltier)


Just watched it. Seems to be a Peltier. If that prototype ends up becoming a fully functioning setup WITHOUT issue, then good for them. It'll forever be left out of CPU block round ups though due to it's functionality, and it'll be a miracle if the software can work correctly. I've had two EK Connects. The first one was messed up so bad that the plugs were mislabeled and then the second one seemed fine but the software was an absolute disaster.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah I should have stated it better before: Every attempt (professional of homebrew) runs into the problem of the PN junction not being able to push enough therms across the junction to make up for the resistance of the peltier. As in: not able to cool the heat side enough to get the cold side cool enough to cover the losses. but I'm drunk and not able to state it better than that without sleep and research.


Edit: Watched the video today, I'll be #%^[email protected] they might be doing it! I still don't want one but interesting none the less.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, nice results  And LM is extremely, extremely variable. For benchmarking, you need to do a half dozen mounts and remounts to get a good idea of actual temp spread. For benchmarking two blocks, easier to get a baseline with paste like KPX or MX-4 and then use that as a reference to get the best LM performance possible.


thats pretty easy to do on your mounts and block i always have like perfect contact on the first try i swapped that block like a hundred times.. i went thru 2x10grams noctua nh1 when i was testing my blocks lol

got me a new fan XD


----------



## Optimus WC

Those new Noctua 360mm fans are nice lol


----------



## Mroberts95

Optimus 3090 Block

Arrived and installed. Looks amazing. Performs amazing. Couldnt ask for anything more.


----------



## Recipe7

Mroberts95 said:


> Optimus 3090 Block
> 
> Arrived and installed. Looks amazing. Performs amazing. Couldnt ask for anything more.


Nice! How was installation? Would I need any particular tools?

Give us some numbers when you get a chance.

Looking forward to receiving my gpu and cpu block from Optimus PC


----------



## Mroberts95

The block came pre assembled however I’m sure it’s just a Phillips screwdriver you might need.

I ran prime 95 w/avx and furmark for like 30mins the first time and 45 the second.

GPU maxed at 39-40c with 450w being pulled and water temp was around 32-32.5, ambient was anywhere from 22-23.5c.

seems to be pretty good


----------



## Bart

Nice combo with the Heatkiller parts!


----------



## zervun

Just found out that they introduced 200mm noctua cromax black... perfect for a mora3

What I would have given for that 4 months ago when I bought 8x baby puke and poop ones for around ~$280 to get some black ones... and then spent tons of time sleeving/extending the wires. I could eat the cost and buy new ones but good god extended sleeving sucks. I may have to just embrace the dookie color long term.


----------



## Hawkjoss

Mroberts95 said:


> The block came pre assembled however I’m sure it’s just a Phillips screwdriver you might need.
> 
> I ran prime 95 w/avx and furmark for like 30mins the first time and 45 the second.
> 
> GPU maxed at 39-40c with 450w being pulled and water temp was around 32-32.5, ambient was anywhere from 22-23.5c.
> 
> seems to be pretty good


Super nice!
How fast do you run the fans? 10C▲t is impressive considering 650-700W thrown into the loop


----------



## Mroberts95

Hawkjoss said:


> Super nice!
> How fast do you run the fans? 10C▲t is impressive considering 650-700W thrown into the loop


Around 1k rpm on the fans, rear fan is up to 1400 but pretty quiet


----------



## Keith Myers

10C delta is higher than the reported delta for that block at GN. But I do realize you have a unspecified cpu in the loop too with unknown loop dissipation.


----------



## Zurv

grats on the new block. Is that a good sign that others might be getting their GPU blocks soon?


----------



## Optimus WC

Keith Myers said:


> 10C delta is higher than the reported delta for that block at GN. But I do realize you have a unspecified cpu in the loop too with unknown loop dissipation.


I think his numbers are showing less than 8c delta gpu die to water temp  



Zurv said:


> grats on the new cards. Is that a good sign that others might be getting their blocks soon?


We're making them, still on track to deliver in a few weeks. He got the first card because he loaned us his GPU so the first parts out of the oven went to him. Still a few more things to do for the retail cards to ship, but we're getting there!


----------



## Keith Myers

Optimus WC said:


> I think his numbers are showing less than 8c delta gpu die to water temp
> 
> 
> 
> We're making them, still on track to deliver in a few weeks. He got the first card because he loaned us his GPU so the first parts out of the oven went to him. Still a few more things to do for the retail cards to ship, but we're getting there!


You are correct. Was comparing the loop temp to the room temp delta by mistake.


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> I think his numbers are showing less than 8c delta gpu die to water temp
> 
> 
> 
> We're making them, still on track to deliver in a few weeks. He got the first card because he loaned us his GPU so the first parts out of the oven went to him. Still a few more things to do for the retail cards to ship, but we're getting there!


Let us know when the XC3 blocks will start going out the door  You (finally) sent me back my card, but now it sounds like a jet engine in my room when I launch a game. Need that block!


----------



## Hawkjoss

.


----------



## Hawkjoss

_*EDIT:*_
So I remounted the block at least 15 times for the past two evenings, trying to fix the big core to core delta I was seeing during the tests (above). I was re-applying to the LM each time and was getting various results. however, the ▲ between the cores was about 10C when running stock and 17C when overclocked to 5.0 during the AVX test. I definitely knew that something is off.
Two packs of Conductonaut, half a bottle of isopropyl alcohol, and one angry wife later, I decided to go for the last attempt and take my time, following all the steps I did when I first delided the CPU.

completely drained the loop
removed the block and mounting mechanism changed the posts around and made sure they are snug
Remounted the OC frame
removed "old" LM from both block and the die
polished the die and contact area of the block with a blitz (had it with delid kit ). Both had a bit of LM residue that felt "harsh", polishing evened out the surface.
re-applied LM to the CPU - here I really took some time. The first layer was a pain to apply as the die felt "hydrophobic". Once I applied the LM and left it to rest for 5 min, I noticed it "pooled up" and a significant portion of the area became bare. So I applied another layer ( no additional LM, just the one I had on the q-tip previously ). I left the CPU die to cure further and proceeded with applying a very thin (literally painting) layer of LM on the contact area of the CPU block - it was way easier application compared with the die. Once done with the block, I came back to the CPU and adjusted the LM application once again for good measure.
Installed the block on the CPU in *goofy position* (90 degrees rotation counter-clockwise, so the inlet is located on the bottom and outlet on the top ). I had Velocity mounted the same way before.
as the system was drained, I also changed the tubing. I attached the photo of EK dura clear I had running in my system for about 6 month - it is gross



Spoiler: EK Duraclear





















*TLDR*.

With the system up and running I went for the first tests and 😳, the results speak for themselves. Not only the temps went down across the board, but he ▲t between the cores does not exceed 5C. Below are updated test results for stock clock speeds






















I should also mention that the system is not fully bled and there are tons of bubbles in the loop and CPU block - they will go away eventually.

Amazed with the results at stock speeds, i quickly changed to OC 5.0/4.7 AVX0 to see how it performs. I ran CB20 and 15 min of RealBench (both tests were done on heat permeated loop after 1hr of OCCT)

_*CBR20*_ - Max *65C*, Min *60C, *ambient *24C
RealBench 2.56* - Max *71C*, Min *67C, *ambient *24.5C












*


I will need to re-visit my previous 5.0 tests, likely I will have time next week.

_PS: I am NOT disassembling the system for at least half a year from now 🤞_


----------



## Keith Myers




----------



## jincuteguy

DAmn 1 thing I wished Optimus would do is make those 90 ratory fittings, and not just straight fittings.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I can't get past the price of the straight fittings


----------



## jincuteguy

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I can't get past the price of the straight fittings


What do you mean? the price of 90 degree fittings will be more expensive?


----------



## Shawnb99

jincuteguy said:


> What do you mean? the price of 90 degree fittings will be more expensive?


Most likely. Most 90 degree fittings are more then the normal ones.
The normal ones are expensive as it is. A 6 pack is $75


----------



## ThrashZone

jincuteguy said:


> What do you mean? the price of 90 degree fittings will be more expensive?


Hi,
No telling doubt it will be a typical rotary fitting
Optimus has said they will be adjustable but once you tighten one end it will not be adjustable anymore unless you loosen it.
Which is good maybe a 90 would be more like a 90 sweep that is more like a electrical 90 degree that wires can be pulled through easier thus less restriction.


----------



## Kana Chan

zGunBLADEz said:


> got me a new fan XD


 Is that single 360x360 fan better than 3x3x120 fans relative to noise?


----------



## Optimus WC

Hawkjoss said:


> _*EDIT:*_
> So I remounted the block at least 15 times for the past two evenings, trying to fix the big core to core delta I was seeing during the tests (above). I was re-applying to the LM each time and was getting various results. however, the ▲ between the cores was about 10C when running stock and 17C when overclocked to 5.0 during the AVX test. I definitely knew that something is off.
> Two packs of Conductonaut, half a bottle of isopropyl alcohol, and one angry wife later, I decided to go for the last attempt and take my time, following all the steps I did when I first delided the CPU.
> 
> completely drained the loop
> removed the block and mounting mechanism changed the posts around and made sure they are snug
> Remounted the OC frame
> removed "old" LM from both block and the die
> polished the die and contact area of the block with a blitz (had it with delid kit ). Both had a bit of LM residue that felt "harsh", polishing evened out the surface.
> re-applied LM to the CPU - here I really took some time. The first layer was a pain to apply as the die felt "hydrophobic". Once I applied the LM and left it to rest for 5 min, I noticed it "pooled up" and a significant portion of the area became bare. So I applied another layer ( no additional LM, just the one I had on the q-tip previously ). I left the CPU die to cure further and proceeded with applying a very thin (literally painting) layer of LM on the contact area of the CPU block - it was way easier application compared with the die. Once done with the block, I came back to the CPU and adjusted the LM application once again for good measure.
> Installed the block on the CPU in *goofy position* (90 degrees rotation counter-clockwise, so the inlet is located on the bottom and outlet on the top ). I had Velocity mounted the same way before.
> as the system was drained, I also changed the tubing. I attached the photo of EK dura clear I had running in my system for about 6 month - it is gross
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: EK Duraclear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2464403
> View attachment 2464404
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *TLDR*.
> 
> With the system up and running I went for the first tests and 😳, the results speak for themselves. Not only the temps went down across the board, but he ▲t between the cores does not exceed 5C. Below are updated test results for stock clock speeds
> 
> View attachment 2464397
> 
> View attachment 2464399
> View attachment 2464400
> 
> I should also mention that the system is not fully bled and there are tons of bubbles in the loop and CPU block - they will go away eventually.
> 
> Amazed with the results at stock speeds, i quickly changed to OC 5.0/4.7 AVX0 to see how it performs. I ran CB20 and 15 min of RealBench (both tests were done on heat permeated loop after 1hr of OCCT)
> 
> _*CBR20*_ - Max *65C*, Min *60C, *ambient *24C
> RealBench 2.56* - Max *71C*, Min *67C, *ambient *24.5C
> View attachment 2464398
> View attachment 2464401
> *
> 
> 
> I will need to re-visit my previous 5.0 tests, likely I will have time next week.
> 
> _PS: I am NOT disassembling the system for at least half a year from now 🤞_


Awesome test!! That's how you do it right, ~7c improvement is what we like to see


----------



## Avacado

Been talking to Thrash, is the V2 still the only block that has clearance to the die in a delid vs the foundation?


----------



## Optimus WC

Both work for delid -- Hawkjoss's amazing test above shows the foundation on bare die with LM. 

FITTINGS: Yes, we'll do rotary. Right now, we're bathing in GPU designs. Rotary is interesting and we want to do a deep dive. Like Thrash mentioned, a conduit-style is really interesting. Or simply do the traditional rotary better. Or do both.


----------



## Kashtan

Is there a support email? I wrote in the forum here twice, and on the e-mail for water accessories to a replaceable cold plate - but I am ignored.


----------



## Optimus WC

Kashtan said:


> Is there a support email? I wrote in the forum here twice, and on the e-mail for water accessories to a replaceable cold plate - but I am ignored.


Yes, [email protected] will get to us. Let me look through the emails and see if I missed it and will get back to you.


----------



## Avacado

Kashtan said:


> but I am ignored.


We Americans can totally relate to that right now.


----------



## Avacado

Side note, you got any of those 2080Ti pre-order blocks lying around that may have not been sold? Would love to show it off in the Case Labs I just picked up.


----------



## Kashtan

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, [email protected] will get to us. Let me look through the emails and see if I missed it and will get back to you.


Thank you, just now i send message from form on site.


Avacado said:


> We Americans can totally relate to that right now.


I hope this situation is temporary.


----------



## Optimus WC

FYI, here's the black backplate render:


----------



## dwolvin

Looks good, but can you make sure the slots are cleanable? Right now the three dead-end slots are going to be annoying to clean if any significant dust gets in there (maybe a ramp on one end?)


----------



## LiquidHaus

Speaking of delids...

Just finished this quick refresh last night. New pump and coolant.


----------



## Bart

So sexy! Can't wait to get a 5950x under my Optimus block!


----------



## Mroberts95

Optimus WC said:


> FYI, here's the black backplate render:
> 
> View attachment 2464493


In the future can we buy different colored back plates if we wanted?


----------



## jincuteguy

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, [email protected] will get to us. Let me look through the emails and see if I missed it and will get back to you.


Do you guys have those Reservoir and the Xylem D5 in stock right now?


----------



## ThrashZone

LiquidHaus said:


> Speaking of delids...
> 
> Just finished this quick refresh last night. New pump and coolant.


Hi,
Dang need to backup so we might see the big picture


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Kana Chan said:


> Is that single 360x360 fan better than 3x3x120 fans relative to noise?


depends on what fans tho.. remember too is a car radiator fan 14" so i dont think noise was a feature to begin wih but to be honest my delta TFC1212DE are way louder than this fan. to me it sounds like a regular house fan on medium settings.. i thought i was going to get the "bearing noise" but no.. 


this are the specs of the fan

[email protected]

• CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute): 2550 cfm
• RPM (Maximum Fan Revolution(s) Per Minute ): 2250 rpm

and you can reverse the flow switching negative with positive from push to pull or from pull to push on the fly you can even make a switch for that sole reason..
I dont need it at full force to where is going to. Its going to be on a window like an ac...

LOTS OF AIR!!!!!!! LIKE i tested yesterday and im very please with it..
$22 free shipping on the states cant go wrong with that price
theres no "puter" fan that outperform that beast


----------



## Shawnb99

Welp CableMod vertical mount is a bust. Offers no support for the GPU at all in the reverse position. Very noticeable sag even with just the Hydrocopper block.

Very disappointing. Going to have to look at other mounts but I don’t have much hope of it working


----------



## Thebc2

Shawnb99 said:


> Welp CableMod vertical mount is a bust. Offers no support for the GPU at all in the reverse position. Very noticeable sag even with just the Hydrocopper block.
> 
> Very disappointing. Going to have to look at other mounts but I don’t have much hope of it working


Look at the coolermaster V2 version. Just got mine and it’s a tank.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Shawnb99

Thebc2 said:


> Look at the coolermaster V2 version. Just got mine and it’s a tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Thanks I’ll check it out but it appears I may have the same issues since the card ends up upside down all the vertical mounts end up supporting the top and not the bottom. I may just have to give up the vertical GPU dream.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah just add a barber shop rgb pole under it


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Thanks I’ll check it out but it appears I may have the same issues since the card ends up upside down all the vertical mounts end up supporting the top and not the bottom. I may just have to give up the vertical GPU dream.


What we need is someone to make an caselabs s10 (with 480mm radiator support). That was an really nice case layout even after all these years


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> What we need is someone to make an caselabs s10 (with 480mm radiator support). That was an really nice case layout even after all these years


I want my TX10 horizontal that Caselabs never made. God the things I’d of done to it… 🤤


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I want my TX10 horizontal that Caselabs never made. God the things I’d of done to it… 🤤


One of the reasons i really loved the horizontal motherboard cases caselabs made. Very difficult to part with.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah I would of loved a horizontal one, would of been nice to see the Magnum series have them. Sadly the cases that got them started weren’t very popular.


----------



## Bart

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah I would of loved a horizontal one, would of been nice to see the Magnum series have them. Sadly the cases that got them started weren’t very popular.


+1 on that, I still have an OG Magnum M8 with pedestal that I will never sell. Sure would have been cool to have a hortizontal mobo option. But then again, that would probably reduce the usability a little. That thing swallows 5 360s with ease, but you'd be cutting into that with a horizontal layout. You might be reduced to only 4 360s, LOL!


----------



## Edge0fsanity

My foundation cpu block and 12" res shipped today. Not a bad lead time at all, ordered last weekend and it shipped 4 business days later on Thursday. Now I just need my batch 2 gpu block and a ftw3 3090 to go with it...


----------



## Shawnb99

Bart said:


> +1 on that, I still have an OG Magnum M8 with pedestal that I will never sell. Sure would have been cool to have a hortizontal mobo option. But then again, that would probably reduce the usability a little. That thing swallows 5 360s with ease, but you'd be cutting into that with a horizontal layout. You might be reduced to only 4 360s, LOL!


M8 was too small for me so I had to upgrade to the TH10. Still rocking the M8, it’s just my media server now. Still it’s a bit tight fitting in HDD’s and these big ass GPU’s hence why the TH10 is the perfect size.


----------



## LiquidHaus

The vertical bracket that was holding up my waterblocked 1080ti was with Phanteks' offering.

This time, I wanted to move passed the stamped and bent sheet metal brackets and get something more sturdy.

Bitspower machined this one, and it supports multiple slots/cards. It'll be holding up the Optimus FTW3.












EDIT:



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Dang need to backup so we might see the big picture


Thanks! Here you go!


----------



## jincuteguy

LiquidHaus said:


> The vertical bracket that was holding up my waterblocked 1080ti was with Phanteks' offering.
> 
> This time, I wanted to move passed the stamped and bent sheet metal brackets and get something more sturdy.
> 
> Bitspower machined this one, and it supports multiple slots/cards. It'll be holding up the Optimus FTW3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! Here you go!


Why do you have a Cylinder Res when you already have a Distro plate? And is there pump attached to the Distro plate? is it a D5 ? just wondering btw


----------



## jincuteguy

Edge0fsanity said:


> My foundation cpu block and 12" res shipped today. Not a bad lead time at all, ordered last weekend and it shipped 4 business days later on Thursday. Now I just need my batch 2 gpu block and a ftw3 3090 to go with it...


Nice dude. Did you order the Xylem D5 pump as well? I wonder if they have those Sig V2 cpu block in stock


----------



## Edge0fsanity

jincuteguy said:


> Nice dude. Did you order the Xylem D5 pump as well? I wonder if they have those Sig V2 cpu block in stock


Yeah, I ordered the pump to go with it. Might have a ftw3 3090 in my hands soon as well. Looking forward to this build, been on air for several months now and its horrible. Looks like I'll have all the parts I need except the gpu block next week.


----------



## ThrashZone

LiquidHaus said:


> The vertical bracket that was holding up my waterblocked 1080ti was with Phanteks' offering.
> 
> This time, I wanted to move passed the stamped and bent sheet metal brackets and get something more sturdy.
> 
> Bitspower machined this one, and it supports multiple slots/cards. It'll be holding up the Optimus FTW3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! Here you go!


Hi,
Nice those upside down boards throw me off


----------



## jincuteguy

So I heard with Distro plate, it's a lot harder to bleed air out when filling the loop compare to a regular cylinder reservoir? is that true?


----------



## ThrashZone

jincuteguy said:


> So I heard with Distro plate, it's a lot harder to bleed air out when filling the loop compare to a regular cylinder reservoir? is that true?


Hi,
Not with a D5 pump 
Most these distro plates have crappy pumps.


----------



## jincuteguy

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Not with a D5 pump
> Most these distro plates have crappy pumps.


What you mean crappy pumps? EK has one with DDC and D5 pumps. So the DDC pump sucks for Distro plate?


----------



## ThrashZone

jincuteguy said:


> What you mean crappy pumps? EK has one with DDC and D5 pumps. So the DDC pump sucks for Distro plate?


Hi,
Just refer to the flow rate if it isn't 1500 l/m it's junk.
Corsair also sells garbage pumps xd5 lol


----------



## jincuteguy

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Just refer to the flow rate if it isn't 1500 l/m it's junk.
> Corsair also sells garbage pumps xd5 lol


Aren't all D5 pumps are the same? Like they're just rebranded?


----------



## Shawnb99

jincuteguy said:


> Aren't all D5 pumps are the same? Like they're just rebranded?


Some are cheap knock offs, some have been modified.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I can't be anymore clear by saying Review the flow rating lol


----------



## sakete

Are Bitspower quick disconnects any good? I'm thinking of buying about 6 so I can easily disconnect gpu and cpu blocks as well as my filter.

I know there's that other kind recommended by Optimus earlier in the thread, but they're impossible to find unless you're willing to buy 25 at a time.


----------



## Shawnb99

The Koolance ones are veery good.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> The Koolance ones are veery good.


Cool, thanks. Looks like PPCS is about to get some business from me again


----------



## Recipe7

I'm using Koolance, works just as well as the day I started using them 3 years ago.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Koolance direct if in the US gets the best price.


----------



## Shawnb99

LiquidHaus said:


> The vertical bracket that was holding up my waterblocked 1080ti was with Phanteks' offering.
> 
> This time, I wanted to move passed the stamped and bent sheet metal brackets and get something more sturdy.
> 
> Bitspower machined this one, and it supports multiple slots/cards. It'll be holding up the Optimus FTW3.



How is the Bitspower one in regards to sag? Is the extra locking part offer enough support to hold the card upside down? Liking the looks of it, might have to give that one a try.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Are Bitspower quick disconnects any good? I'm thinking of buying about 6 so I can easily disconnect gpu and cpu blocks as well as my filter.
> 
> I know there's that other kind recommended by Optimus earlier in the thread, but they're impossible to find unless you're willing to buy 25 at a time.


You can find them in the us. We were talking about these months ago. Get some cpc colder lq6 3/8 and get the koolance 3/8 to g1/4 and female-female and your done


----------



## gengar

jincuteguy said:


> Aren't all D5 pumps are the same? Like they're just rebranded?


All D5 pumps are made by Xylem (sometimes under their various brands like Laing, Goulds, etc.) and then rebranded. There is the possibility of knockoffs of course.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Most distros don't include pumps. I'm using a DDC 3.2 for the pink build. It's a standalone that feeds from the tube reservoir directly. Has plenty of head pressure for the HWL GTS rads which are incredibly restrictive. The secondary reservoir is mainly for aesthetics. Had a fountain effect before changing it to an pastel coolant, but it's also easier to prime the pump with a bigger reservoir.


----------



## Thebc2

Shawnb99 said:


> How is the Bitspower one in regards to sag? Is the extra locking part offer enough support to hold the card upside down? Liking the looks of it, might have to give that one a try.


Will that one work in your Caselabs case though? Biggest challenge finding a vertical mount for me was finding one that you could shift/offset for cases with bars between their pcie slot brackets on their cases.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## jincuteguy

Shawnb99 said:


> Some are cheap knock offs, some have been modified.


So if I'm looking to buy a D5 pump, which brand should I get?


----------



## Driosenth

jincuteguy said:


> So if I'm looking to buy a D5 pump, which brand should I get?


Depends on if you want no RPM control, PWM control, the 5 position RPM dial, or something exotic like the aquacomputer NEXT, and also on if you want it powered by a Sata or Molex connector. They should all perform similarly. I would say go with whichever brand you trust the most that fits your budget. A bare PWM D5 pump with no top will run about $70-$90 USD. 

Which top you choose really depends on price and looks nowadays as there hasn't been a rigorous set of tests done on pump tops in a while and the flow restriction curves for many newer tops are not known.


----------



## jincuteguy

Driosenth said:


> Depends on if you want no RPM control, PWM control, the 5 position RPM dial, or something exotic like the aquacomputer NEXT, and also on if you want it powered by a Sata or Molex connector. They should all perform similarly. I would say go with whichever brand you trust the most that fits your budget. A bare PWM D5 pump with no top will run about $70-$90 USD.
> 
> Which top you choose really depends on price and looks nowadays as there hasn't been a rigorous set of tests done on pump tops in a while and the flow restriction curves for many newer tops are not known.


I want PWM and Sata connector, and I have no idea which brand has that besides the one from OPtimus


----------



## gengar

jincuteguy said:


> I want PWM and Sata connector, and I have no idea which brand has that besides the one from OPtimus


XSPC does a PWM SATA D5.


----------



## Hawkjoss

@Optimus WC, Hi! Are you planning on releasing a water block for 3070 FE? Got lucky today and picked up one at near MSRP value.


----------



## Zurv

Hawkjoss said:


> @Optimus WC, Hi! Are you planning on releasing a water block for 3070 FE? Got lucky today and picked up one at near MSRP value.


my gut would say no.. also.. if you were going to add a $300-$400 block to a $500 card... you might want to wait to pick up a 3080  (or get a sexy waterblock on a rtx titan for the same price.)


----------



## Hawkjoss

Zurv said:


> my gut would say no.. also.. if you were going to add a $300-$400 block to a $500 card... you might want to wait to pick up a 3080  (or get a sexy waterblock on a rtx titan for the same price.)


Fair point. Well, If it is going to be available and up to $250, I'll definitely consider it.


----------



## straha20

I was in the first preorder batch for the 3080 FTW water block, and I should have my 3080 FTW3 Ultra Gaming in hand by the end of the week, so...

Any word on if the Mid November shipping estimate for the water block is still on track with it coming up on mid November?


----------



## originxt

straha20 said:


> I was in the first preorder batch for the 3080 FTW water block, and I should have my 3080 FTW3 Ultra Gaming in hand by the end of the week, so...
> 
> Any word on if the Mid November shipping estimate for the water block is still on track with it coming up on mid November?


Maybe. If Optimus finally hits their projected release date, I think it'll hopefully set a precedent for future releases.

I would realistically maybe set your expectations to late November (23-25) or early December (1st week) since they will most likely be out during the Thanksgiving weekend. 

Any earlier release or release on time is a little less likely but seeing as a user here got his block recently, maybe we'll be pleasantly surprised?


----------



## asdf893

It's already November 10th so if they're not planning on fulfilling mid-november ETA we oughta here from them very soon. And 1st week of December would be ridiculous especially since we're already approaching mid November.


----------



## Shawnb99

2080ti blocks mid-nov? Sweet! 😉


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Hawkjoss said:


> Fair point. Well, If it is going to be available and up to $250, I'll definitely consider it.


I think it’s gonna be upwards of 300 because you have to buy a backplate


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sakete

asdf893 said:


> It's already November 10th so if they're not planning on fulfilling mid-november ETA we oughta here from them very soon. And 1st week of December would be ridiculous especially since we're already approaching mid November.


You must be new here  It's Optimus. Take their estimates with a HUUUUGE grain of salt. I had sent in my video card (EVGA 3080 XC3) so they could design a block for it. They kept pushing out timelines out by another week or two, every week for 6 weeks, until I just asked them to send me back my card without the block (and even that was like pulling teeth, but they finally did in the end). So now I'm still waiting on my XC3 block, maybe I'll get it in December, maybe in January, I have no idea. I didn't even ask them for a timeline as it's pointless. But now that I have my card back I don't mind waiting for a free GPU block. It just sucks to have a loud air cooled card in my case right now, but ehh, at least I can enjoy all that eye candy in games now


----------



## sakete

originxt said:


> Maybe. If Optimus finally hits their projected release date, I think it'll hopefully set a precedent for future releases.
> 
> I would realistically maybe set your expectations to late November (23-25) or early December (1st week) since they will most likely be out during the Thanksgiving weekend.
> 
> Any earlier release or release on time is a little less likely but seeing as a user here got his block recently, maybe we'll be pleasantly surprised?


That user only got his block early because he had sent in his FTW3


----------



## originxt

sakete said:


> That user only got his block early because he had sent in his FTW3


That was my point though. Since he got a block, maybe they have the full process set up so it'll come on time? Idk, keep expectations low so if they're met or exceeded, youre happy. If they don't, well... You kind of knew it would happen.


----------



## Mroberts95

I hope they keep up ETAS with all these new blocks. Make a big comeback from the 2080ti blocks etc.

I only got mine early because they sent my card back with the block etc.

Just keep an eye here or their twitter for announcements. Im sure once somebody gets a shipping email it will be posted here!


----------



## asdf893

Mroberts95 said:


> I hope they keep up ETAS with all these new blocks. Make a big comeback from the 2080ti blocks etc.
> 
> I only got mine early because they sent my card back with the block etc.
> 
> Just keep an eye here or their twitter for announcements. Im sure once somebody gets a shipping email it will be posted here!


Was that your copper FTW3 block on reddit? If you think nickel will better match your build do you want to trade copper for my nickel? I'm willing to swap the block on and off your card if you're not comfortable with it.


----------



## Mroberts95

asdf893 said:


> Was that your copper FTW3 block on reddit? If you think nickel will better match your build do you want to trade copper for my nickel? I'm willing to swap the block on and off your card if you're not comfortable with it.


Yeah that was my block on Reddit and here.
At the moment no.
I like the look of the copper for now.
If for some reason that changes before you get your card I’ll let you know.

Update: Now that I think I probably wouldnt trade it away. Just because Copper might not be out for a while and two its the first production block.


Thanks


----------



## asdf893

Mroberts95 said:


> Yeah that was my block on Reddit and here.
> At the moment no.
> I like the look of the copper for now.
> If for some reason that changes before you get your card I’ll let you know.
> 
> Thanks


Enjoy


----------



## ThrashZone

@Optimus WC 
You guys needs to catch up and get to some really cool stuff lol 








EK Launches QuantumX Delta TEC Water Block Featuring Intel Cryo Cooling Technology - ekwb.com


EK, the leading computer cooling solutions provider, announces the release of its EK-QuantumX Delta TEC water block. With more than 15 years of experience as a leader in premium quality cooling solutions, EK, in collaboration with Intel, has developed a next-level solution for enthusiasts...




www.ekwb.com


----------



## jincuteguy

Holy


ThrashZone said:


> @Optimus WC
> You guys needs to catch up and get to some really cool stuff lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK Launches QuantumX Delta TEC Water Block Featuring Intel Cryo Cooling Technology - ekwb.com
> 
> 
> EK, the leading computer cooling solutions provider, announces the release of its EK-QuantumX Delta TEC water block. With more than 15 years of experience as a leader in premium quality cooling solutions, EK, in collaboration with Intel, has developed a next-level solution for enthusiasts...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ekwb.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2465039


 WoW, Im gonna get that in December. These might be sold out so fast. Lucky I didn't spent $1k on custom loop


----------



## gengar

asdf893 said:


> It's already November 10th so if they're not planning on fulfilling mid-november ETA we oughta here from them very soon. And 1st week of December would be ridiculous especially since we're already approaching mid November.


Keep in mind this is a company that took weeks just to notify me that items would take weeks more to ship. For supposedly "in-stock" items. Adjust your expectations accordingly.


----------



## originxt

Distro plate with dual pumps coming tomorrow with aquacomputer flow next coming in 2 weeks. Just need to order some Optimus fittings and my gpu block and it'll be rebuilding time. Tired of my gpu going to 80c when doing anything remotely stressful. 

Ordered 3 more a12x25 but unsure if I can fit a push/pull config. Problem for the future.


----------



## asdf893

Dual pumps is just for fun and not actual cooling performance right? A single D5 should be more than enough.


----------



## originxt

asdf893 said:


> Dual pumps is just for fun and not actual cooling performance right? A single D5 should be more than enough.


Just to drop pump speed and improve head pressure. I need to have it at 80% minimum with a single d5 or I start having worse cpu Temps. 3 360 rads and some 90 degree fittings since the case can't really fit the rads without it. Plan to run it in series. I do plan to attach the flow meter before breaking it down to see what my actual flow rate is compared to new.


----------



## dsmrunnah

ThrashZone said:


> @Optimus WC
> You guys needs to catch up and get to some really cool stuff lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK Launches QuantumX Delta TEC Water Block Featuring Intel Cryo Cooling Technology - ekwb.com
> 
> 
> EK, the leading computer cooling solutions provider, announces the release of its EK-QuantumX Delta TEC water block. With more than 15 years of experience as a leader in premium quality cooling solutions, EK, in collaboration with Intel, has developed a next-level solution for enthusiasts...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ekwb.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2465039


Kinda looks like a Peltier Cooler. I looked into Peltier Cooling before but the amount of power it requires makes it kind of inefficient, but still pretty effective. If that's what EKWB is doing, the idea isn't that new, but they may be one of the first ones to make a streamline unit with a waterblock to remove the heat from the hot side of the TEC.


----------



## KedarWolf

dsmrunnah said:


> Kinda looks like a Peltier Cooler. I looked into Peltier Cooling before but the amount of power it requires is ridiculous.


EKWB webpage says 200W. That's rather huge.


----------



## dsmrunnah

KedarWolf said:


> EKWB webpage says 200W. That's rather huge.


They work good with cooling, but they're not very efficient. That's the first one I can think of that is integrated with a waterblock on the hotside. If you're wanting to go sub ambient, another option is a water chiller.

What looks to be a plus on EKWB's setup is the watercooling is on the hot side of the TEC, which means you likely won't have condensation problems on your hoses since your water temps won't actually go sub ambient. It is to be noted though that you can create condensation under the IHS if you get too cold without realizing it.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, couple updates:

GPUS: We're producing them, we need to get a concrete ETA for the nickel plating and then we can give a more exact date when they'll be shipping. 

GENERAL SALES: We've gone to only in-stock sales for the time being, so you'll notice many things are out of stock on the website as we work through backorders.

FITTINGS: 12mm and 14mm hardlines are in stock and available on the site. 

INTEL THERMOELECTRIC COOLER: If the tech worked, we would be doing it!  At the end of the day, thermoelectric is worse than ambient liquid cooling, forget chilling. We did a deep dive a while back, playing with the idea of using our fin design and a whole bunch of stuff. But the physics of it just don't work. It's great...for idle. But once the CPUs are pushed to anything like real multi-core performance, the peltier falls apart. For example, the handful of videos can't seem to sustain a normal overclock. If it could do 5.8 all core under load, that'd be something. But even in gaming, it's super unstable. The best ambient air water cooling goes well past the peltier benchmarks. It's an inherent flaw in how thermoelectric cooling works, it can't handle the heat loads of normal CPUs, forget the big boy CPUs we're running these days. So you get, say, hundreds of watts from the CPU, then 200w from the TEC. Our Foundation blocks can handle 500-800w. But it's not the cooling that's the issue, it's the thermal runaway within the peltier pad itself. That's why the temps go from like 0c to 50c+ almost instantly. 

Anyway, fun stuff, but good water will beat peltier into the ground. Not sure why Intel is pushing this, though they do have a history of investing in interesting tech that doesn't have a real practical angle.


----------



## dsmrunnah

Optimus WC said:


> INTEL THERMOELECTRIC COOLER: If the tech worked, we would be doing it!  At the end of the day, thermoelectric is worse than ambient liquid cooling, forget chilling. We did a deep dive a while back, playing with the idea of using our fin design and a whole bunch of stuff. But the physics of it just don't work. It's great...for idle. But once the CPUs are pushed to anything like real multi-core performance, the peltier falls apart. For example, the handful of videos can't seem to sustain a normal overclock. If it could do 5.8 all core under load, that'd be something. But even in gaming, it's super unstable. The best ambient air water cooling goes well past the peltier benchmarks. It's an inherent flaw in how thermoelectric cooling works, it can't handle the heat loads of normal CPUs, forget the big boy CPUs we're running these days. So you get, say, hundreds of watts from the CPU, then 200w from the TEC. Our Foundation blocks can handle 500-800w. But it's not the cooling that's the issue, it's the thermal runaway within the peltier pad itself. That's why the temps go from like 0c to 50c+ almost instantly.


Completely agree. TEC's have certain applications (I've seen them in industry a few times) where they are the best choice, CPU cooling isn't one of them. To keep them stable you have to pretty much have some kind of refrigerant system on the hot side pulling massive amounts heat away constantly. Most of the video's I've seen involve people trying to use cheap air coolers with a couple of fans and doing short bursts at best. I don't think standard water cooling is going to be enough to pull the temperature away from the pad to keep it stable honestly. What you end up with is two components (CPU & TEC) both fluctuating a lot in temperature which makes sustained stability very difficult to achieve. People have been playing with them on CPU's for a few decades now and it doesn't really stick around. Every few years a company will come out with another system using a TEC and stir the rumor mill up again.

If you're wanting to go a step past standard water cooling, I'd personally looking into a chiller setup and possibly a remote reservoir to isolate noise. If you want to keep going past that, LN2.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Agreed. I've messed with Peltier's in the past and they're extremely volatile. Intel pushed this hard, and though they worked with EK on it, it's mainly an Intel project. EK just happen to have the infrastructure for the device manufacturing. der8auer's video showed his "golden sample" 10900k get some decent scores at 5.8ghz, but my 5600X at 4.8ghz beats it. It's a gimmick to grasp at straws, before Intel's customer base simply moves over to AMD, imo.


----------



## darkangelism

dsmrunnah said:


> Kinda looks like a Peltier Cooler. I looked into Peltier Cooling before but the amount of power it requires makes it kind of inefficient, but still pretty effective. If that's what EKWB is doing, the idea isn't that new, but they may be one of the first ones to make a streamline unit with a waterblock to remove the heat from the hot side of the TEC.






 it was decent for games but not longer term load


----------



## evilbob2200

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, couple updates:
> 
> GPUS: We're producing them, we need to get a concrete ETA for the nickel plating and then we can give a more exact date when they'll be shipping.
> 
> GENERAL SALES: We've gone to only in-stock sales for the time being, so you'll notice many things are out of stock on the website as we work through backorders.
> 
> FITTINGS: 12mm and 14mm hardlines are in stock and available on the site.
> 
> INTEL THERMOELECTRIC COOLER: If the tech worked, we would be doing it!  At the end of the day, thermoelectric is worse than ambient liquid cooling, forget chilling. We did a deep dive a while back, playing with the idea of using our fin design and a whole bunch of stuff. But the physics of it just don't work. It's great...for idle. But once the CPUs are pushed to anything like real multi-core performance, the peltier falls apart. For example, the handful of videos can't seem to sustain a normal overclock. If it could do 5.8 all core under load, that'd be something. But even in gaming, it's super unstable. The best ambient air water cooling goes well past the peltier benchmarks. It's an inherent flaw in how thermoelectric cooling works, it can't handle the heat loads of normal CPUs, forget the big boy CPUs we're running these days. So you get, say, hundreds of watts from the CPU, then 200w from the TEC. Our Foundation blocks can handle 500-800w. But it's not the cooling that's the issue, it's the thermal runaway within the peltier pad itself. That's why the temps go from like 0c to 50c+ almost instantly.
> 
> Anyway, fun stuff, but good water will beat peltier into the ground. Not sure why Intel is pushing this, though they do have a history of investing in interesting tech that doesn't have a real practical angle.


so I emailed about my order recently i wouldnt mind getting raw copper instead of the nickel plated one id actually prefer raw copper itll match my amd block from you guys then haha


----------



## jomama22

How long have orders for an AMD foundation been taking? Nickle plate/acetal ordered about 10 days ago so just curious.


----------



## Kana Chan

dsmrunnah said:


> If you're wanting to go a step past standard water cooling, I'd personally looking into a chiller setup and possibly a remote reservoir to isolate noise.


 Why not just add a giant 2nd loop outside the house+a plate heatexchanger between them? Power draw should be much less than the TEC for a 2nd pump and it won't add additional heat to your room.


Amazon.com


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, couple updates:
> 
> GPUS: We're producing them, we need to get a concrete ETA for the nickel plating and then we can give a more exact date when they'll be shipping.


Well, this...disappointing. Especially when the feedback here at least suggested that the bare copper was the more popular option over nickel plated. My video card is out for delivery as I type this, so this block is the only thing holding up my build at this point. If the nickel plating is the only thing holding up shipping this out, I'd gladly take one without the plating.


----------



## chibi

Yes, add one more vote for copper plate option. Nickel is just added costs for arguably better aesthetics and time delays.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yes I believe K.I.S.S. applies here lol


----------



## straha20

chibi said:


> Yes, add one more vote for copper plate option. Nickel is just added costs for arguably better aesthetics and time delays.


Hell, at this point, I'd take what they have with the money I have already paid...I now have a 3080 FTW3 sitting on my table...


----------



## gengar

jomama22 said:


> How long have orders for an AMD foundation been taking? Nickle plate/acetal ordered about 10 days ago so just curious.


As I stated upthread, my last quote from Optimus was minimum 3 weeks even for "in-stock" items.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, we're looking at putting aside some copper blocks for the people here. Nickel is typically way, way more popular, so it makes doing batches easier overall.


----------



## chibi

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're looking at putting aside some copper blocks for the people here. Nickel is typically way, way more popular, so it makes doing batches easier overall.



Now that's a game plan


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're looking at putting aside some copper blocks for the people here. Nickel is typically way, way more popular, so it makes doing batches easier overall.


If a copper block will get the water block I have ordered and already paid for to me faster, then send it. Hell, keep the price difference


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're looking at putting aside some copper blocks for the people here. Nickel is typically way, way more popular, so it makes doing batches easier overall.


As long as you remember that my XC3 block should be copper


----------



## Kriant

Quick question: So, I will be taking apart my loop soon to figure out what the hell is going on with my optimus block (for AM4), and why it looks like it's flaking. I've also noticed that I have about 8c difference between CCD1 and CCD2. I am fairly certain I have applied thermal paste evenly and tightened the block evenly. Any ideas what else might cause this? my old EK block didn't have that problem with my 3950x.


----------



## evilbob2200

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're looking at putting aside some copper blocks for the people here. Nickel is typically way, way more popular, so it makes doing batches easier overall.


this would be awesome!!! i emailed about it (my email uses my username) hell i dont care about the 40 bucks lol keep it as a tip lol can provide more info if you need it


----------



## asdf893

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're looking at putting aside some copper blocks for the people here. Nickel is typically way, way more popular, so it makes doing batches easier overall.


I must've been one of the earliest orders from batch1, could I downgrade to copper?


----------



## asdf893

asdf893 said:


> I must've been one of the earliest orders from batch1, could I downgrade to copper?


@Optimus WC I DM'd you my order info.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're looking at putting aside some copper blocks for the people here. Nickel is typically way, way more popular, so it makes doing batches easier overall.


Hi,
If you did your own nickel plating then maybe you'd have better knowledge of how long it would take to do.
Until then copper rules.


----------



## Kana Chan

Nickel plating is very popular on reddit though.


----------



## Shawnb99

Kana Chan said:


> Nickel plating is very popular on reddit though.


Reddit is full of idiots who like to claim flow rate only matters if your temps are off and adding 3 feet of tubing will give you better temps. Reddit is all EK, Corsair and the same Lian Li case as everyone else.
Eating tide pods was popular at one time as well


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're looking at putting aside some copper blocks for the people here. Nickel is typically way, way more popular, so it makes doing batches easier overall.


Hi,
Bless you for having sweet straight cooling fins 
Here's a amd techn cold plate same price as foundation lol my interest in techn drops after seeing this crooked milling 
Home - Techn GmbH


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

Yes, straight ultra thin fins are extremely hard to do, even the fins shown here that are like 300% thicker than ours (if memory serves). It's our secret sauce and took years and lots o' money to develop, so we're not surprised others haven't been able to do what we do.

NICKEL: send [email protected] pictures of potential issues. 99% of the time it's other debris accumulating in the fins. Because our acrylic is clear, it's far easier to see what's going on in the loop. And performance typically comes down to a couple other factors in the loop. Though often it's about paste spread and getting the block correctly tightened on the IHS. 

PLATING NICKEL: Our nickel is the good stuff, so won't flake. OSHA -- aka the high priests of manufacturing -- will drop the hammer on us if we did nickel "in house." Nickel has to be done at specific facilities because the chemicals and toxicity and all of that. Air purifiers the sizes of houses are required. It's crazy and horrible. So, yeah, we'll never combine the CNC milling with plating in the same facility. In China back in the day, you could do plating at like daycare facilities, though not sure what it's like now.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Yes, straight ultra thin fins are extremely hard to do, even the fins shown here that are like 300% thicker than ours (if memory serves). It's our secret sauce and took years and lots o' money to develop, so we're not surprised others haven't been able to do what we do.
> 
> NICKEL: send [email protected] pictures of potential issues. 99% of the time it's other debris accumulating in the fins. Because our acrylic is clear, it's far easier to see what's going on in the loop. And performance typically comes down to a couple other factors in the loop. Though often it's about paste spread and getting the block correctly tightened on the IHS.
> 
> PLATING NICKEL: Our nickel is the good stuff, so won't flake. OSHA -- aka the high priests of manufacturing -- will drop the hammer on us if we did nickel "in house." Nickel has to be done at specific facilities because the chemicals and toxicity and all of that. Air purifiers the sizes of houses are required. It's crazy and horrible. So, yeah, we'll never combine the CNC milling with plating in the same facility. In China back in the day, you could do plating at like daycare facilities, though not sure what it's like now.


Hey there! So any chance that for those of us who have stated in this thread recently that we are perfectly fine without the nickel plating, especially if it means we can get them sooner, can get them?


----------



## Optimus WC

straha20 said:


> Hey there! So any chance that for those of us who have stated in this thread recently that we are perfectly fine without the nickel plating, especially if it means we can get them sooner, can get them?


Yes, correct! Email us at [email protected] to make the request. As long as Illinois doesn't go into complete lockdown and the shipping companies close, blocks will ship next week


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, correct! Email us at [email protected] to make the request. As long as Illinois doesn't go into complete lockdown and the shipping companies close, blocks will ship next week


Contact message sent!


----------



## originxt

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, correct! Email us at [email protected] to make the request. As long as Illinois doesn't go into complete lockdown and the shipping companies close, blocks will ship next week


When do you think you'll have some more soft tubing fittings available? Same for a replacement copper cold plate for Intel?


----------



## darkangelism

EVGA put up their hydrocopper versions only $40 more than the air version


----------



## gengar

darkangelism said:


> EVGA put up their hydrocopper versions only $40 more than the air version


Nice, $810 for XC3 Ultra Hydro Copper and $850 for FTW3 Ultra Hydro Copper. EVGA website doesn't have a queue up for them yet, but I'll probably waitlist when that happens and see how the 6800 XT / 6900XT play out.


----------



## kingmob

Getting email quotes of about three weeks and based off the ghoul mayor of Chicago threatening shutdowns and cancelling Thanksgiving day activities, I would assume it's going to lean more towards the much longer than three week delays. I'll probably snag a heatkiller instead of being up in the air like this.


----------



## ExDarkxH

I actually live in Illinois and work in Chicago. Would LOVE if batch 1 could get delivered by next week.
currently #27 in port royal on air i want to push into the top 10 and think i can with this block


----------



## straha20

ExDarkxH said:


> I actually live in Illinois and work in Chicago. Would LOVE if batch 1 could get delivered by next week.
> currently #27 in port royal on air i want to push into the top 10 and think i can with this block


Yep, I am in Illinois too, just a little ways down the I55 corridor, and would LOVE the same thing!


----------



## ThrashZone

darkangelism said:


> EVGA put up their hydrocopper versions only $40 more than the air version


Hi,
Yeah not sure why they call it hydro copper seeing it's nickel plated lol


----------



## Neville0

@Optimus WC what is the status on the RTX 3XXX Asus TUF blocks. I remember that it was stated to be on the road map, but lost track of that after a while.


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah not sure why they call it hydro copper seeing it's nickel plated lol


To be fair thrashzone, you just hate on everything nickle-plated xD

Curious as to how it performs compared to optimus and the other blocks. I wonder who they contracted this time?


----------



## CluckyTaco

Anyone see this review of the TechN waterblock by Guru3D Review: Liquid Cooling with a TechN waterblock. Interesting results.


----------



## Section31

CluckyTaco said:


> Anyone see this review of the TechN waterblock by Guru3D Review: Liquid Cooling with a TechN waterblock. Interesting results.


Matches up with the German reviews. It's an great deal if it comes over to North America.


----------



## D-EJ915

Section31 said:


> Matches up with the German reviews. It's an great deal if it comes over to North America.


I know this is off-topic but they have them at performance-pcs.


----------



## evilbob2200

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, correct! Email us at [email protected] to make the request. As long as Illinois doesn't go into complete lockdown and the shipping companies close, blocks will ship next week


what do you mean by [email protected] like send a contact email through your website? which selection should we make to make the request? because id love to request the raw copper liek ive mentioned before


----------



## originxt

evilbob2200 said:


> what do you mean by [email protected] like send a contact email through your website? which selection should we make to make the request? because id love to request the raw copper liek ive mentioned before











contact


GET IN TOUCH Questions, comments, issues? Team Optimus is here to help. Email us and we'll get back to you shortly. Due to covid-19, we are experiencing continued delays. We're working hard to respond to emails, but please hang on for a few days for a response, we're focusing on making blocks as...




optimuspc.com





[email protected]

Probably include order number.


----------



## dsmrunnah

originxt said:


> Curious as to how it performs compared to optimus and the other blocks. I wonder who they contracted this time?


Hopefully better than their last generation of HC blocks. The mounting solution left a lot to be desired. I tried one on a 2070 Super and had a lot of trouble getting proper contact with the cold plate and die, even with all of the thermal pads removed. I ended up swapping it for an EKWB block.


----------



## ExDarkxH

so they are saying blocks will ship next week only if you dont want the nickle plating?
So for the ppl who actually want and paid for nickle, are we looking at the end of the month now?

What's the status on these blocks?


----------



## Eulerian

Is Batch 2 still going to make it end of Nov?


----------



## Zurv

Eulerian said:


> Is Batch 2 still going to make it end of Nov?


the magic 8-ball says "No"


(unless they are so late with batch 1... that 1 and 2 go out at the same time...)


----------



## originxt

Doing some maintenance while installing my distro plate but man, either I can't mount for **** or the ihs is lumpy af. Using kryo extreme so it's pink initially.



http://imgur.com/a/iJDyVk1





http://imgur.com/a/3WwJTxP


Well there is crap in the block. Unsure how much it impacted the overall performance but I guess I'm doing a rad cleaning too. Guess I can remove the o-ring too in the center as suggested by thrash.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep not much contact in the center.
Which block never mind see a little of it there sigV2 :/
It has a ton of bow so no telling what the deal is chip like a soup bowl or something lol


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep not much contact in the center.
> Which block never mind see a little of it there sigV2 :/
> It has a ton of bow so no telling what the deal is chip like a soup bowl or something lol


Think it's the ihs or my mounting? Found crap in the fins too but unsure if it's growth or from the rads.



http://imgur.com/a/3WwJTxP


Edit: it's ****ing cat hair and some leftovers from radiator.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Think it's the ihs or my mounting? Found crap in the fins too but unsure if it's growth or from the rads.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/3WwJTxP
> 
> 
> Edit: it's ****ing cat hair and some leftovers from radiator.


Hi,
You really should just upload images instead of using that nasty site.
Add a filter.


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You really should just upload images instead of using that nasty site.
> Add a filter.


Site doesn't let me upload on mobile. Unsure why.


----------



## dwolvin

Cat hair?! Well, that's a legit reason to run some serious filtering, maybe a pair in parallel to reduce the restriction.


----------



## asdf893

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You really should just upload images instead of using that nasty site.
> Add a filter.


What's wrong with imgur?


----------



## kingmob

If you shave the kitty you could probably lower your temps by 10C


----------



## originxt

dwolvin said:


> Cat hair?! Well, that's a legit reason to run some serious filtering, maybe a pair in parallel to reduce the restriction.


Probably came into the room when the loop was broken down for cleaning during previous maintenance when I went out for lunch. Left me some gift hair in the loop lol.



kingmob said:


> If you shave the kitty you could probably lower your temps by 10C


LOL if only. Would make her completely hairless during the summertime. 

It's getting cold in socal now so I just let her grow it out. Shave her short so she feels better during summer. Also helps in not getting hair on my suits.


----------



## straha20

Well, with the 3080ti rumors reaching a fevered pitch again, if it indeed is released, I hope it uses the same 3080 pcb so I can use my block on it at some point.


----------



## darkangelism

kingmob said:


> If you shave the kitty you could probably lower your temps by 10C


That's what i tell my wife


----------



## asdf893

@Optimus WC hoping for good news since ETA was mid-November and it's now November 16th. Will first batch orders be sent out today? Will you downgrade first batch orders that contacted you about doing copper instead of nickel?


----------



## ExDarkxH

Well they will have to update something.
It will look terrible if next week on their website it still says eta mid November as we enter the end of November.


----------



## Sir Beregond

straha20 said:


> Well, with the 3080ti rumors reaching a fevered pitch again, if it indeed is released, I hope it uses the same 3080 pcb so I can use my block on it at some point.


I believe it will be a 3090 PCB (which might be same as 3080 except it has DRAM chips on front and back?). Anyway, I've just heard (rumors) it will basically be a 3090 with less VRAM and reduced bus (352-bit instead of 384-bit). But time will tell.


----------



## LiquidHaus

You guys excited for the new blocks?!

Should be a good week!


----------



## dwolvin

Yuuup!


----------



## asdf893

OK let's play a game while we wait for the blocks to ship or for us to receive a new ETA or any update... what time was your order placed? 07:41PM PT


----------



## Zurv

I think everyone ordered the 3090 waterblock on the 19th. It went out of stock pretty fast. (for phase one.. that is)


----------



## RichKnecht

Any news on when the Signature V2 blocks will become available?


----------



## ThrashZone

asdf893 said:


> What's wrong with imgur?


Hi,
They sux difficult to zoom in on anything posted there.


----------



## asdf893

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> They sux difficult to zoom in on anything posted there.


therefore a "nasty site" lol ok.


----------



## ThrashZone

asdf893 said:


> therefore a "nasty site" lol ok.


Hi,
Yeah useless and nasty lol
Onedrive is more functional.


----------



## straha20

Well now I am really impatient to get my hands on my block, because I just snagged the card I was REALLY after...3090 FTW3 Ultra. Got it at MSRP, and it is supposedly arriving Friday. I WANT MY BLOCK!


----------



## Shawnb99

EVGA must of just got stock, I got the email about the card yesterday. Not worth it for me


----------



## chibi

Shawnb99 said:


> EVGA must of just got stock, I got the email about the card yesterday. Not worth it for me



Apparently, Canada Computers also got 40+ in stock... all in Ontario. Share some with the rest of us?


----------



## asdf893

Nov 11-20 seems like a reasonable definition of "mid-nov" and we're approaching the end of that without blocks or an update.


----------



## whaleboy_4096

asdf893 said:


> Nov 11-20 seems like a reasonable definition of "mid-nov" and we're approaching the end of that without blocks or an update.


They said in another thread that they were running about a week behind. This was 2 days ago.


----------



## asdf893

whaleboy_4096 said:


> They said in another thread that they were running about a week behind. This was 2 days ago.


another thread or this thread on another page? If former could you link please?


----------



## whaleboy_4096

asdf893 said:


> another thread or this thread on another page? If former could you link please?


The former... actually it was on Reddit. Can I link to a reddit thread here? I just joined so I'm not sure what the rules are...


----------



## whaleboy_4096

just do a google search for...

"everything ok at optimus" reddit

That will give you a single correct result.


----------



## sakete

whaleboy_4096 said:


> They said in another thread that they were running about a week behind. This was 2 days ago.


Sounds about right...


----------



## ExDarkxH

Eta is now the end of November for batch 1, according to the email they sent me

I dont mind as long as they actually hit the target this time. Will be annoyed if it goes to December. At least they emailed me back


----------



## sakete

ExDarkxH said:


> Eta is now the end of November for batch 1, according to the email they sent me
> 
> I dont mind as long as they actually hit the target this time. Will be annoyed if it goes to December. At least they emailed me back


Get used to it. It's Optimus.


----------



## LiquidHaus

This morning was fun.


----------



## originxt

ExDarkxH said:


> Eta is now the end of November for batch 1, according to the email they sent me
> 
> I dont mind as long as they actually hit the target this time. Will be annoyed if it goes to December. At least they emailed me back


Is this for those that want nickle or copper? or both?


----------



## straha20

originxt said:


> Is this for those that want nickle or copper? or both?


Me personally, I don't care which one I get. I just want one that I have already paid for.


----------



## Thebc2

I was in batch 1 but recently returned my ftw3 for a Strix. I emailed Optimus and they graciously converted my order to a Strix block once they become available. I’ve further asked to hold out for copper as well.

For those awaiting a water cooled RTX card, I can tell you the performance uplift from putting these cards under water is insane. In the interim I picked up an EK Strix block until I get my Optimus block, and I can tell you; lowering temps really opens things up on these cards. I went from +140 core on air to completely maxed out at +186. Roughly +500 in port royal for my card. I almost broke 15,200 with no power mods.

Can’t wait to get the Optimus block and put it through it’s paces as well, but the EK block’s performance has been good. I have yet to break 40c regardless of workload and ambient temps. Usually sub 35c unless ambients are high. Idle in the low 20s.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## originxt

Thebc2 said:


> I was in batch 1 but recently returned my ftw3 for a Strix. I emailed Optimus and they graciously converted my order to a Strix block once they become available. I’ve further asked to hold out for copper as well.
> 
> For those awaiting a water cooled RTX card, I can tell you the performance uplift from putting these cards under water is insane. In the interim I picked up an EK Strix block until I get my Optimus block, and I can tell you; lowering temps really opens things up on these cards. I went from +140 core on air to completely maxed out at +186. Roughly +500 in port royal for my card. I almost broke 15,200 with no power mods.
> 
> Can’t wait to get the Optimus block and put it through it’s paces as well, but the EK block’s performance has been good. I have yet to break 40c regardless of workload and ambient temps. Usually sub 35c unless ambients are high. Idle in the low 20s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


What's your ambient water/air temps?


----------



## Thebc2

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## asdf893

ExDarkxH said:


> Eta is now the end of November for batch 1, according to the email they sent me
> 
> I dont mind as long as they actually hit the target this time. Will be annoyed if it goes to December. At least they emailed me back


Is this an automated email? Did you reach out to them first? I didn't receive any update!


----------



## evilbob2200

ExDarkxH said:


> Eta is now the end of November for batch 1, according to the email they sent me
> 
> I dont mind as long as they actually hit the target this time. Will be annoyed if it goes to December. At least they emailed me back


i havent gotten an email lol


----------



## oreonutz

Thebc2 said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Damn! Do you live in Canada or something?? Las Vegas Native here, I would be in the hospital with hyperthermia if my Room Temperature was that low! LOL!. 

I kid obviously, but When it gets to 19c in my room in the Winter I am freezing my ass off. Even in the Summer when it 46c+ Outside, I'll put the AC On Full Blast, and after about 15 minutes at anything below 23c I can't take it any more. About 23.5-24.0c is about perfect for me. I don't know if its because I grew up here in Vegas, or what, but that seems to be a pretty normal feeling for people around here who grew up here.

On the flip side, having that much colder room temp is soo much better for OCs! Wish I could just chamber off my PC, and have it in that low of a Temp, While I enjoy the 24c Room Ambient! LOL!


----------



## Thebc2

oreonutz said:


> Damn! Do you live in Canada or something?? Las Vegas Native here, I would be in the hospital with hyperthermia if my Room Temperature was that low! LOL!.
> 
> I kid obviously, but When it gets to 19c in my room in the Winter I am freezing my ass off. Even in the Summer when it 46c+ Outside, I'll put the AC On Full Blast, and after about 15 minutes at anything below 23c I can't take it any more. About 23.5-24.0c is about perfect for me. I don't know if its because I grew up here in Vegas, or what, but that seems to be a pretty normal feeling for people around here who grew up here.
> 
> On the flip side, having that much colder room temp is soo much better for OCs! Wish I could just chamber off my PC, and have it in that low of a Temp, While I enjoy the 24c Room Ambient! LOL!


Ha, totally. I am up in New England so starting to get a bit chilly. Love this time of year, “boost season” for turbo charged cars and overclocked computer hardware


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## ExDarkxH

asdf893 said:


> Is this an automated email? Did you reach out to them first? I didn't receive any update!


Not automated
They took a few days to respond but got back to me and told me their new eta is end of Nov for batch 1


----------



## evilbob2200

ExDarkxH said:


> Not automated
> They took a few days to respond but got back to me and told me their new eta is end of Nov for batch 1


what email?


----------



## asdf893

ExDarkxH said:


> Not automated
> They took a few days to respond but got back to me and told me their new eta is end of Nov for batch 1


Did you request copper instead of nickel? I asked to chance to copper after the hint at a nickel delay by optimus in this post and then I asked what the new ETA is if they're not arriving mid Nov. They didn't bother answering my ETA question.


----------



## ThrashZone

HI,
@Optimus WC 
Any idea when plexi tops will be around 
I scratched mine


----------



## ExDarkxH

asdf893 said:


> Did you request copper instead of nickel? I asked to chance to copper after the hint at a nickel delay by optimus in this post and then I asked what the new ETA is if they're not arriving mid Nov. They didn't bother answering my ETA question.


I didnt ask for copper. They are referring to the Nickle plated blocks


----------



## dwolvin

ThrashZone said:


> <pic of block>


Toward the left edge? Can't that buff out (or is it deep)?


----------



## Twintale

Well, after 1 month and 11 days of waiting I finally received in Russia my first Optimus thing - AMD CPU block.
Ps. used EK block, using Alphacool block currently and have big hopes for Optimus.


----------



## Sir Beregond

dwolvin said:


> Toward the left edge? Can't that buff out (or is it deep)?


Looks like car paint holograms.


----------



## evilbob2200

asdf893 said:


> Did you request copper instead of nickel? I asked to chance to copper after the hint at a nickel delay by optimus in this post and then I asked what the new ETA is if they're not arriving mid Nov. They didn't bother answering my ETA question.


they havent even gotten back to me about switching to raw copper... which is what i want more than nickel



ExDarkxH said:


> I didnt ask for copper. They are referring to the Nickle plated blocks


how did you email them? through their website or some other way?


----------



## ExDarkxH

*[email protected]*


----------



## evilbob2200

ExDarkxH said:


> *[email protected]*


thank you


----------



## Kashtan

Which is the best to use in a circuit? I have distilled water. What to add to it? Optimus has very small pins, I don't want to clog them with dirt ..
And when my coldplate go away? 2 weeks ago I made an order.


----------



## originxt

I would honestly just hold out for maybe very late Nov, early December for the first batch blocks. If they ship next, it'll have to be latest Monday/Tuesday in order for the order to be delivered by Friday/Weekend of Thanksgiving and maybe the following weekdays. I don't seem them shipping blocks out this week based on current info, even for copper blocks.


----------



## ThrashZone

dwolvin said:


> Toward the left edge? Can't that buff out (or is it deep)?


Hi,
No in the center


----------



## asdf893

evilbob2200 said:


> thank you


Did you get a reply?


----------



## le-coq

Kashtan said:


> Which is the best to use in a circuit? I have distilled water. What to add to it? Optimus has very small pins, I don't want to clog them with dirt ..
> And when my coldplate go away? 2 weeks ago I made an order.


Kashtan, I contacted Optimus who recommended me to use distilled water. If I wanted coolant, they recommended Koolance. I have purchased Koolance but have stuck with distilled water in my loop, and everything looks as clean as day one. The loop has been running for three months.


----------



## le-coq

Thebc2 said:


> I was in batch 1 but recently returned my ftw3 for a Strix. I emailed Optimus and they graciously converted my order to a Strix block once they become available. I’ve further asked to hold out for copper as well.
> 
> For those awaiting a water cooled RTX card, I can tell you the performance uplift from putting these cards under water is insane. In the interim I picked up an EK Strix block until I get my Optimus block, and I can tell you; lowering temps really opens things up on these cards. I went from +140 core on air to completely maxed out at +186. Roughly +500 in port royal for my card. I almost broke 15,200 with no power mods.
> 
> Can’t wait to get the Optimus block and put it through it’s paces as well, but the EK block’s performance has been good. I have yet to break 40c regardless of workload and ambient temps. Usually sub 35c unless ambients are high. Idle in the low 20s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Nice, thanks. It's likely a two month wait for the Strix card for me, and I have no time pressure for Optimus. I may do what you did and use an EK block, in the meanwhile. (edit: I'd prefer brands other than EK, such as Watercool.)


----------



## dwolvin

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> No in the center
> View attachment 2465988


Ah, for some reason I thought those marks were on the tops of the fins.


----------



## evilbob2200

asdf893 said:


> Did you get a reply?


not yet


----------



## asdf893

tonight they posted on their twitter that they'll be shipping after Thanksgiving.


----------



## evilbob2200

asdf893 said:


> tonight they posted on their twitter that they'll be shipping after Thanksgiving.


not surprised things are getting bad here in the midwest and chicago is getting more strict


----------



## asdf893

evilbob2200 said:


> not surprised things are getting bad here in the midwest and chicago is getting more strict


Yea, they should've communicated a week ago when they new we wouldn't be receiving blocks "mid Nov"


----------



## asdf893

And there was no clarification about copper vs. nickel.


----------



## evilbob2200

things can change a lot even after a day during a pandemic so im willing to cut them some slack _shrug_


----------



## straha20

asdf893 said:


> Yea, they should've communicated a week ago when they new we wouldn't be receiving blocks "mid Nov"


Yeah, this whole experience...not going to buy direct from Optimus again, and certainly not pre-order. I got my Optimus AM4 block from Performance PC's, and in the future, if Optimus has a product that I am needing/wanting, I'll absolutely buy the brand, but only from 3rd party because at least I would know it was real, and in hand.


----------



## sakete

straha20 said:


> Yeah, this whole experience...not going to buy direct from Optimus again, and certainly not pre-order. I got my Optimus AM4 block from Performance PC's, and in the future, if Optimus has a product that I am needing/wanting, I'll absolutely buy the brand, but only from 3rd party because at least I would know it was real, and in hand.


The thing with Optimus is that they are very consistently terrible at providing timelines (at least they're consistent I guess). I don't know why they keep making promises they know they can't keep. They just don't learn from their mistakes. If I were in charge of communications at Optimus I would just start telling customers that timelines are uncertain, and any estimate I gave, I'd add on another 3 weeks to be conservative. And immediately send out emails (not random posts on OCN/Reddit/Twitter) to ALL customers that are waiting for a product if there are any delays.

It's basic business to inform your customers and they just fail terribly at that aspect. If it wasn't for them otherwise making excellent products they probably would have failed a long time ago.


----------



## evilbob2200

sakete said:


> The thing with Optimus is that they are very consistently terrible at providing timelines (at least they're consistent I guess). I don't know why they keep making promises they know they can't keep. They just don't learn from their mistakes. If I were in charge of communications at Optimus I would just start telling customers that timelines are uncertain, and any estimate I gave, I'd add on another 3 weeks to be conservative. And immediately send out emails (not random posts on OCN/Reddit/Twitter) to ALL customers that are waiting for a product if there are any delays.
> 
> It's basic business to inform your customers and they just fail terribly at that aspect. If it wasn't for them otherwise making excellent products they probably would have failed a long time ago.


maybe im just more forgiving since i also collect custom lightsabers and 6-12 month waits are common in that hobby. Hell ive been waiting on an obi wan kenobi saber for over a year and the guy keeps me updated.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

We hear you about timelines, that's why we're moving to only in-stock items on the website, rather than preselling. Batch blocks are slightly different, since there has been big demand for preordering those and people want to make more concrete decisions about blocks and availability. 

We estimated with an extra two weeks of buffer, but lots of unforeseen challenges outside of our control. Covid is back with a vengeance and affecting different companies in different ways. 

At this stage, the nickel plating hasn't held us up, so copper won't be earlier unless people want a copper one. 

The good-ish news is we've worked out the sourcing delays so blocks should start moving faster. The less good news is covid is getting worse and lots of rumblings from state officials about bigger lockdowns, and very little clarity what that all means. The better news is that we're in the US, working through the holidays, shipping as long as UPS is open, so people will still be getting products as soon as they're done.


----------



## evilbob2200

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> We hear you about timelines, that's why we're moving to only in-stock items on the website, rather than preselling. Batch blocks are slightly different, since there has been big demand for preordering those and people want to make more concrete decisions about blocks and availability.
> 
> We estimated with an extra two weeks of buffer, but lots of unforeseen challenges outside of our control. Covid is back with a vengeance and affecting different companies in different ways.
> 
> At this stage, the nickel plating hasn't held us up, so copper won't be earlier unless people want a copper one.
> 
> The good-ish news is we've worked out the sourcing delays so blocks should start moving faster. The less good news is covid is getting worse and lots of rumblings from state officials about bigger lockdowns, and very little clarity what that all means. The better news is that we're in the US, working through the holidays, shipping as long as UPS is open, so people will still be getting products as soon as they're done.


hey did you guys get any of my emails regarding my request for copper? Itd be awesome to hear back about that soon. My email is same as my user name


----------



## Optimus WC

evilbob2200 said:


> hey did you guys get any of my emails regarding my request for copper? Itd be awesome to hear back about that soon


Yup, we'll confirm if copper is what you want when we get to shipping. Like I mentioned, copper won't be earlier than nickel now, though it will look sweet


----------



## evilbob2200

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, we'll confirm if copper is what you want when we get to shipping. Like I mentioned, copper won't be earlier than nickel now, though it will look sweet


okay cool, still hope i get a response to my email though lol thanks for the updates!


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, we'll confirm if copper is what you want when we get to shipping. Like I mentioned, copper won't be earlier than nickel now, though it will look sweet


At this point, I'll take what ever I can get the fastest. I have my 3090, I have my 5900x, I have my Optimus AM4 water block. The only thing I am waiting on now is the GPU block that I ordered and paid for


----------



## dwolvin

Nice info! Do you have a source for the AMD blocks, or do you want one? I haven't scored yet, but someone here probably has.


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> We hear you about timelines, that's why we're moving to only in-stock items on the website, rather than preselling. Batch blocks are slightly different, since there has been big demand for preordering those and people want to make more concrete decisions about blocks and availability.
> 
> We estimated with an extra two weeks of buffer, but lots of unforeseen challenges outside of our control. Covid is back with a vengeance and affecting different companies in different ways.
> 
> At this stage, the nickel plating hasn't held us up, so copper won't be earlier unless people want a copper one.
> 
> The good-ish news is we've worked out the sourcing delays so blocks should start moving faster. The less good news is covid is getting worse and lots of rumblings from state officials about bigger lockdowns, and very little clarity what that all means. The better news is that we're in the US, working through the holidays, shipping as long as UPS is open, so people will still be getting products as soon as they're done.


Well, good that you've already started to provide more conservative timelines. Just also start sending out emails to ALL your paying customers when delays are anticipated (not everyone will read your posts here on OCN/Reddit/Twitter). People will understand as communication is always appreciated, and you'd probably get a lot less complaining on forums and social media  I really don't think most people mind waiting (myself included), as long as they are being informed about it and don't have to guess at where things stand.

With all the delays, I guess XC3 blocks won't be out until at least January. Glad I asked you to send me back my card first


----------



## Kashtan

le-coq said:


> Kashtan, I contacted Optimus who recommended me to use distilled water. If I wanted coolant, they recommended Koolance. I have purchased Koolance but have stuck with distilled water in my loop, and everything looks as clean as day one. The loop has been running for three months.


Thank you very much.
I will be use distilled water


----------



## RichKnecht

Waiting patiently (sort of ) for a foundation block.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Really hope batch 2 ships before mid December, got in early on the Kingpin notification list this morning. Will have a tough decision to make next month if the block hasn't shipped by then.


----------



## Zurv

Edge0fsanity said:


> Really hope batch 2 ships before mid December, got in early on the Kingpin notification list this morning. Will have a tough decision to make next month if the block hasn't shipped by then.


I'm in the same boat. 
I'm going to punch someone if i hear fan noise when i'm playing cyberpunk.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Zurv said:


> I'm in the same boat.
> I'm going to punch someone if i hear fan noise when i'm playing cyberpunk.


I'm dying to get my system under water. Been on air since September after selling my 2080tis. I haven't had a system on air since 2014. It's awful. And I definitely don't want to deal with putting it on water when cp2077 releases.


----------



## originxt

Edge0fsanity said:


> Really hope batch 2 ships before mid December, got in early on the Kingpin notification list this morning. Will have a tough decision to make next month if the block hasn't shipped by then.


Guess it really depends on if they get their last out-of-house materials in for all the orders/batches, IE fujipoly pads.


----------



## le-coq

Just so people know, once again - I made an order probably around $1000 USD to Canada. Waited two months - was a little anxious at the start giving $1000 to them. Optimus wasn't super fast responding but always did when it was critical, like with changing my order or letting me know an ETA.

Given COVID, they got a huge free pass. They told me that COVID definitely affected them. It's affecting us at work - indirectly with other people just getting sick.

I can't speak for now, but they fulfilled my order. I received everything, and the quality to me seems top notch. I just want people to know that hey, here's one happy customer who had to wait a while. I'll order from them my GPU block and if it's a long wait, I'll get a block from Alphacool or Watercool (Heatkiller) at first.

As for Optimus, thanks - I am big into top-notch quality everything in my life since I was five. It's costly but it's fun for me. When I think of another product with high-quality copper that I own, I think of Mauviel. You're right up there.


----------



## Section31

le-coq said:


> Just so people know, once again - I made an order probably around $1000 USD to Canada. Waited two months - was a little anxious at the start giving $1000 to them. Optimus wasn't super fast responding but always did when it was critical, like with changing my order or letting me know an ETA.
> 
> Given COVID, they got a huge free pass. They told me that COVID definitely affected them. It's affecting us at work - indirectly with other people just getting sick.
> 
> I can't speak for now, but they fulfilled my order. I received everything, and the quality to me seems top notch. I just want people to know that hey, here's one happy customer who had to wait a while. I'll order from them my GPU block and if it's a long wait, I'll get a block from Alphacool or Watercool (Heatkiller) at first.
> 
> As for Optimus, thanks - I am big into top-notch quality everything in my life since I was five. It's costly but it's fun for me. When I think of another product with high-quality copper that I own, I think of Mauviel. You're right up there.


mauviel lol. My parents bought one but never used it more than once. It’s just too heavy for them and is a lot of work to clean.


----------



## le-coq

Section31 said:


> mauviel lol. My parents bought one but never used it more than once. It’s just too heavy for them and is a lot of work to clean.


😂😂. Section31, I think we are of a similar demographic from the same city lol.

But yeah, I guess no time pressure for me -I don't rely on my video card for work or crucial things. But if someone needs a card and a block for say, Cyberpunk, I can symapthise


----------



## Section31

le-coq said:


> 😂😂. Section31, I think we are of a similar demographic from the same city lol.
> 
> But yeah, I guess no time pressure for me -I don't rely on my video card for work or crucial things. But if someone needs a card and a block for say, Cyberpunk, I can symapthise


So Shawnb99, you, me all on the west coast. It's an unfortunate market, most of Canada stock goes out East and often times, they have excess inventory. Overhere, the people with dispsable income is lot more but we fight over smaller piece of supply. So we have to fight for US inventory and if worse come to worse, target Asia inventory.


----------



## sakete

Woot! Now got my hands on a 3080 FTW3 Ultra and Optimus graciously agreed to swap my XC3 block for an FTW3 block, so will now be selling my XC3.

Posted it in the buy/sell forum for anyone in need of one


----------



## straha20

sakete said:


> Woot! Now got my hands on a 3080 FTW3 Ultra and Optimus graciously agreed to swap my XC3 block for an FTW3 block, so will now be selling my XC3.
> 
> Posted it in the buy/sell forum for anyone in need of one


Nice! Now if they would just graciously get my FTW3 block top me so I can complete my build


----------



## Edge0fsanity

I decided to put my cpu on water today while I wait for the gpu block to ship. Pretty sure I got a bad d5 pump with the optimus res I ordered.  Sounds like something is grinding, keeps getting worse while I leak test.


----------



## straha20

Edge0fsanity said:


> I decided to put my cpu on water today while I wait for the gpu block to ship. Pretty sure I got a bad d5 pump with the optimus res I ordered.  Sounds like something is grinding, keeps getting worse while I leak test.


I would just put the CPU under water, and add the video card in later, but I am working in a fully custom case, and am making a new motherboard tray, and need the GPU block mounted so I can know where to drill my bulkheads. I mean, I would work around that, but then I'd essentially have to completely tear down my system again to fit the card, and I just don't want to have to do that.


----------



## Shawnb99

What’s the turn around time for ordering a AMD block? Considering grabbing a 5950x.


----------



## evilbob2200

Shawnb99 said:


> What’s the turn around time for ordering a AMD block? Considering grabbing a 5950x.


they arent doin preorders at the moment so itll basically ship within a few days if the foundation block says its in stock.


----------



## whaleboy_4096

Shawnb99 said:


> What’s the turn around time for ordering a AMD block? Considering grabbing a 5950x.


even though those blocks aren't available at the moment (I have one on order), I think you would get it well before you could grab a 5950x. I think those CPU's will be in short supply for quite a while.


----------



## evilbob2200

whaleboy_4096 said:


> even though those blocks aren't available at the moment (I have one on order), I think you would get it well before you could grab a 5950x. I think those CPU's will be in short supply for quite a while.


agreed its gonna be hard to buy those through prob january


----------



## straha20

whaleboy_4096 said:


> even though those blocks aren't available at the moment (I have one on order), I think you would get it well before you could grab a 5950x. I think those CPU's will be in short supply for quite a while.


I was lucky and snagged the last Foundation block in stock at Performance PCs a couple of months ago.


----------



## RichKnecht

My SigV2 arrives today and I thought I read somewhere that Optimus said to remove the inner o-ring between the top and cold plate to reduce flow restriction. Can anyone using the block confirm this?


----------



## Avacado

RichKnecht said:


> My SigV2 arrives today and I thought I read somewhere that Optimus said to remove the inner o-ring between the top and cold plate to reduce flow restriction. Can anyone using the block confirm this?


I remember reading this before, not sure on whether it's the foundation or the sig. @ThrashZone can help you here.


----------



## ThrashZone

RichKnecht said:


> My SigV2 arrives today and I thought I read somewhere that Optimus said to remove the inner o-ring between the top and cold plate to reduce flow restriction. Can anyone using the block confirm this?


Hi,
Just read down from here it's all covered 
Yes optimus said to just remove it I prefer to shave it.








ASUS Rampage VI Extreme (X299) Owners Club


Hi, So is the plastic all scratched up or not lol Return if it is. Just the plastic shown there, i had ordered a replacement on amazon since new egg was out but since the above mention thought i was good and canceled it, but now im unsire, based on the photos should I be ok or no?




www.overclock.net


----------



## LiquidHaus

Hopefully this was the last project with the 3090 on air


----------



## RichKnecht

Signature V2 copper showed up. My only gripe is that the "Optimus" on the block will be upside down. I'll post my findings once I get it installed.


----------



## sakete

RichKnecht said:


> Signature V2 copper showed up. My only gripe is that the "Optimus" on the block will be upside down. I'll post my findings once I get it installed.


Why will it be upside down? Because of the way you need to mount it because of in/out? You should be able to remove the top and rotate it 180°


----------



## RichKnecht

sakete said:


> Why will it be upside down? Because of the way you need to mount it because of in/out? You should be able to remove the top and rotate it 180°


Haven't taken it apart yet, but will check. Will be awesome if you are right  I need to flush my loop as I am switching to distilled water from EK Biofuel.


----------



## sakete

RichKnecht said:


> Haven't taken it apart yet, but will check. Will be awesome if you are right  I need to flush my loop as I am switching to distilled water from EK Biofuel.


I know for sure it's possible on my Foundation block. And I think it's possible as well on the Signature V2 block.


----------



## evilbob2200

RichKnecht said:


> Signature V2 copper showed up. My only gripe is that the "Optimus" on the block will be upside down. I'll post my findings once I get it installed.


its modular you can change that


----------



## sakete

Well, I finally ordered some Koolance QDC fittings, now that PPCS has a Thanksgiving sale going on (12.5% off). Now all I need is that FTW3 block and I'll be redoing parts of my loop with QDCs for more flexibility down the road (even as simple as re-applying thermal paste for the CPU will be a lot easier now, without needing to drain the whole loop).


----------



## RichKnecht

Thanks! Now do I remove the o-ring like others have done, or leave it in there....


----------



## Shawnb99

I’ll be removing mine


----------



## sakete

RichKnecht said:


> Thanks! Now do I remove the o-ring like others have done, or leave it in there....


The consensus appears to be to either remove it, or shave it down like @ThrashZone did.


----------



## Avacado

RichKnecht said:


> Thanks! Now do I remove the o-ring like others have done, or leave it in there....


Really up to you isn't it? I would remove it, or shave it to help increase flow.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Can we see some photos of the o-ring shaved down? I haven't had any issues with flow on these blocks to be honest. At least it hasn't been something that I've thought to myself "this is bad, time to modify things".


----------



## Avacado

LiquidHaus said:


> Can we see some photos of the o-ring shaved down? I haven't had any issues with flow on these blocks to be honest. At least it hasn't been something that I've thought to myself "this is bad, time to modify things".





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I shaved mine flush except for the round ends I left those ends alone I just shaved the middle where you'll see cut marks from the cooling fins this is what causes fluid restriction because the rubber o-ring reduces fluid travel.
> Outer o-ring is for sealing you leave it alone.
> Easiest is to remove the center o-ring


Click on the up arrow to take you to his post with the picture.


----------



## ThrashZone

HI,
I leave it and shave the middle only because of heatkiller 4 pro dies if you remove the straight o-rings it comes with to keep fluid traveling along the cooling fins.


----------



## dwolvin

Never mind- somehow a bunch of posts popped up while I was commenting. It's covered, go back to whatever you were doing.


----------



## RichKnecht

sakete said:


> I know for sure it's possible on my Foundation block. And I think it's possible as well on the Signature V2 block.





evilbob2200 said:


> its modular you can change that


Can't change it. The top of the block is a single piece and the only thing you can change is the orientation of the cold plate in case you mount the block with the ports vertical.. The name will be upside down. No big deal as you can hardly see it anyway. By the way, I am leaving the center o-ring in to see how it goes.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah leave it in/ take it out/ shave it anything will be better than close to a decade old evo


----------



## RichKnecht

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah leave it in/ take it out/ shave it anything will be better than close to a decade old evo


I’m not going to bash the Evo. It served me well and worked just fine on my bare die 7900X. I’m more concerned about flushing out the EK cryofuel ( which I have no issues with ). It’s just expensive and distilled water should be just fine.


----------



## asdf893

RichKnecht said:


> I’m not going to bash the Evo. It served me well and worked just fine on my bare die 7900X. I’m more concerned about flushing out the EK cryofuel ( which I have no issues with ). It’s just expensive and distilled water should be just fine.


7900x? Is that zen5 or something? haha


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC When can we expect a Signature AMD block?


----------



## asdf893

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC When can we expect a Signature AMD block?


maybe they'll make something special considering zen3masterrace


----------



## evilbob2200

LiquidHaus said:


> Can we see some photos of the o-ring shaved down? I haven't had any issues with flow on these blocks to be honest. At least it hasn't been something that I've thought to myself "this is bad, time to modify things".


ypure pretty experienced it seems. im not but what would removing do? id be afraid of leaks


----------



## ThrashZone

evilbob2200 said:


> ypure pretty experienced it seems. im not but what would removing do? id be afraid of leaks


Hi,
It's an inner o-ring not an outer o-ring so not a leaking deal unless you just don't tighten the screws enough lol


----------



## Avacado

evilbob2200 said:


> ypure pretty experienced it seems. im not but what would removing do? id be afraid of leaks


There are 2 O-Rings, as long as you leave the outer O-Ring, you won't have any leaks.


----------



## RichKnecht

asdf893 said:


> 7900x? Is that zen5 or something? haha


Doesn't matter what gen the 7900X is. Worked just fine for what I do and I am glad I waited. I paid $809 for my 10980 brand new from Microcenter, so the wait to upgrade was well worth it for me.


----------



## Avacado

RichKnecht said:


> Doesn't matter what gen the 7900X is. Worked just fine for what I do and I am glad I waited. I paid $809 for my 10980 brand new from Microcenter, so the wait to upgrade was well worth it for me.


----------



## RichKnecht

Got the blocks swapped, EVO supremacy to Optimus V2, and other than temp spread between cores, nothing changed. MAYBE 2 degrees less max temps with the V2 running Realbench, but nothing jaw dropping. Getting ~ 9 degree spread between cores with the V2 compared to the 15-18 degree spread with the Suprmeacy. This is with the inner o-ring in place. Don't think flow is an issue considering I am running dual D5s and the second D5 is right before the CPU block. Going to redo the entire OC to see if maybe I can achieve the same results with less voltage which will obviously affect temps.


----------



## evilbob2200

Avacado said:


> There are 2 O-Rings, as long as you leave the outer O-Ring, you won't have any leaks.


so then what exactly is the point of the second o-ring thats being removed or shavved?


----------



## LiquidHaus

evilbob2200 said:


> ypure pretty experienced it seems. im not but what would removing do? id be afraid of leaks


Thanks for noticing lol. The inner O-ring is there to help guide the coolant through the cooling fins, rather than just going between the tolerance of the acrylic and cold plate. These guys are talking about shaving down the o-ring because out of the box, the o-ring is actually thicker than it technically needs to be, and thus creates much more restriction. 

However in my experience, I have not found the restriction an issue. I would rather not deal with modifying Optimus' block, as I know they've tested all of this. Plus, if the flow rate being _slightly_ diminished due to the block is an issue for you, it'd be highly recommended to remedy it with a second pump. Redundancy is what you want the most with watercooling loops anyway.

If you had shaved the o-ring down and were all happy about your flow rate being good with the pump that you have, but then your pump dies. Well that sucks. But if you're rocking two pumps, and one of them dies, then at least you have another running so that your system can still run in the meantime while you snag another secondary pump. 

Restriction from the thicker-than-need-be o-ring isn't an issue to worry about in my opinion. A CPU block is already the most restrictive component in 95% of watercooling loops anyway. Just plan accordingly and you'll be fine.


----------



## Avacado

evilbob2200 said:


> so then what exactly is the point of the second o-ring thats being removed or shavved?


There isn't one, which Optimus has stated. Was manufactured with it, found to be not needed to improve flow. So leave it, remove it, who cares.


----------



## evilbob2200

LiquidHaus said:


> Thanks for noticing lol. The inner O-ring is there to help guide the coolant through the cooling fins, rather than just going between the tolerance of the acrylic and cold plate. These guys are talking about shaving down the o-ring because out of the box, the o-ring is actually thicker than it technically needs to be, and thus creates much more restriction.
> 
> However in my experience, I have not found the restriction an issue. I would rather not deal with modifying Optimus' block, as I know they've tested all of this. Plus, if the flow rate being _slightly_ diminished due to the block is an issue for you, it'd be highly recommended to remedy it with a second pump. Redundancy is what you want the most with watercooling loops anyway.
> 
> If you had shaved the o-ring down and were all happy about your flow rate being good with the pump that you have, but then your pump dies. Well that sucks. But if you're rocking two pumps, and one of them dies, then at least you have another running so that your system can still run in the meantime while you snag another secondary pump.
> 
> Restriction from the thicker-than-need-be o-ring isn't an issue to worry about in my opinion. A CPU block is already the most restrictive component in 95% of watercooling loops anyway. Just plan accordingly and you'll be fine.


ooo thanks as far as I can tell the loop im planning should be good with the one d5 pump.


----------



## ExDarkxH

when you say "after thanksgiving" to me this implies Friday or Monday at the latest
To this company though. i wonder if it simply means "we're buying more time" and dont plan to ship until December

regardless, the way this handle this will decide if i ever buy another product from them again


----------



## Zurv

I'm pretty sure the blocks will be inside the turkey... so i guess i will be heading to my mom's tomorrow? nod nod.. i'm pretty sure this is happening... 

(It will be as likely that the block will be in the turkey's ass as it is that we'll have the GPU block before Dec.)


----------



## whaleboy_4096

ExDarkxH said:


> when you say "after thanksgiving" to me this implies Friday or Monday at the latest
> To this company though. i wonder if it simply means "we're buying more time" and dont plan to ship until December



That is a pretty narrow definition of "after Thanksgiving". If they said "the day after..." I would agree with you, but anytime next week would be fine and easily fall under my definition. Also, remember that two days after the Thanksgiving weekend is December 1st. I've never dealt with them before, but they do have a reputation that they need to work on (as far as delayed shipping and not responding to inquiries), but considering the state of things, if they ship some time next week, I'd be happy. That would be a two week delay from the original estimate, which I believe was listed as exactly that on their site... an estimate.


----------



## ThrashZone

LiquidHaus said:


> Thanks for noticing lol. The inner O-ring is there to help guide the coolant through the cooling fins, rather than just going between the tolerance of the acrylic and cold plate. These guys are talking about shaving down the o-ring because out of the box, the o-ring is actually thicker than it technically needs to be, and thus creates much more restriction.
> 
> However in my experience, I have not found the restriction an issue. I would rather not deal with modifying Optimus' block, as I know they've tested all of this. Plus, if the flow rate being _slightly_ diminished due to the block is an issue for you, it'd be highly recommended to remedy it with a second pump. Redundancy is what you want the most with watercooling loops anyway.
> 
> If you had shaved the o-ring down and were all happy about your flow rate being good with the pump that you have, but then your pump dies. Well that sucks. But if you're rocking two pumps, and one of them dies, then at least you have another running so that your system can still run in the meantime while you snag another secondary pump.
> 
> Restriction from the thicker-than-need-be o-ring isn't an issue to worry about in my opinion. A CPU block is already the most restrictive component in 95% of watercooling loops anyway. Just plan accordingly and you'll be fine.


Hi,
Deal is we've seen lots of pretty pictures but not one benchmark of yours with or without the suspect o-ring installed
Last build image was not even a optimus water block in it lol


----------



## straha20

ExDarkxH said:


> when you say "after thanksgiving" to me this implies Friday or Monday at the latest
> To this company though. i wonder if it simply means "we're buying more time" and dont plan to ship until December
> 
> regardless, the way this handle this will decide if i ever buy another product from them again


Oh, I will buy Optimus products in the future if they are what I need. I just won't ever plan a build around or wait in anticipation of their availability. If they are in stock, I'll buy, if not, I'll move on to another company. I am just glad Performance PCs had the Optimus am4 block I wanted in stock.

Optimus makes really good stuff, but that is meaningless if customers can't get the stuff.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep that's the way to look at it.
Complaining is lame just move on down the list heatkiller.


----------



## LiquidHaus

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Deal is we've seen lots of pretty pictures but not one benchmark of yours with or without the suspect o-ring installed
> Last build image was not even a optimus water block in it lol


The deal actually is I wasn't discussing whether or not the O-ring would be installed or uninstalled. I was simply talking about the need to shave it down. You don't need to try and defend the work that you did prior in modifying yours. I'm simply calling it pointless.

Also, no need for formalities on a forum. You don't need to address everyone with a "Hi,"


----------



## sakete

@Optimus WC I remember when you first received the XC3 card I had sent in you had mentioned that the EVGA cards are covered in thermal putty. Any tips on how to remove that putty so we can use the thermal pads you'll be providing with the blocks you'll be shipping at some point?

I'm assuming the FTW3 cards (of which I now own one) will be covered in the same putty.


----------



## evilbob2200

sakete said:


> @Optimus WC I remember when you first received the XC3 card I had sent in you had mentioned that the EVGA cards are covered in thermal putty. Any tips on how to remove that putty so we can use the thermal pads you'll be providing with the blocks you'll be shipping at some point?
> 
> I'm assuming the FTW3 cards (of which I now own one) will be covered in the same putty.


prob lots of care and rubbing alcohol


----------



## whaleboy_4096

evilbob2200 said:


> prob lots a care and rubbing alcohol


Just make sure it's pure isopropyl and not the rubbing alcohol that has aloe in it


----------



## ThrashZone

LiquidHaus said:


> The deal actually is I wasn't discussing whether or not the O-ring would be installed or uninstalled. I was simply talking about the need to shave it down. You don't need to try and defend the work that you did prior in modifying yours. I'm simply calling it pointless.
> 
> Also, no need for formalities on a forum. You don't need to address everyone with a "Hi,"


Hi,
Nice one dude lol

But all you're doing is spamming your website services this is a optimus thread which none of the last build had any of that companies products in it.

You spammed the heatkiller thread too appropriately so seeing you were using that companies product.


----------



## straha20

It'll be interesting to see how this plays out...

Performance PC's is having a giveaway for an Optimus FTW3 3080/3090 water block. So...is that a good sign for those of us waiting for ours that they are actually ready to go and we'll be getting ours soon, or is it bad for the contest winner that they might end up waiting a while, or is it that the contest winner will get one way before the already paid customers? Hmmm...


----------



## Section31

I am now waiting for new slot of ftw3 to open up. Got an 3090ftw3. That being said, good thing i never sold my caselabs s8. Its one big GPU.


----------



## asdf893

At this point it's clear that Optimus' marketing and timelines are malicious. Do you think they'd instantly fill a few hundred expensive ($400) waterblock preorders if they were honest about the timeline being 2 or more months? No. They give fake, not "optimistic", timelines and sit on your cash and feel no accountability to customers. Optimus' lack of communication and transparency isn't new or a covid issue - this is just the latest example. Take a step back from raking this thread or some random reddit post and realize that Optimus hasn't even informed customers that waterblocks won't be arriving mid-November as advertised or when the _real _arrival date is. And if you did chase the internet looking for updates you'll find some vague excuse by Optimus _after _the date we were expecting to receive the product. There's a delay? Is it because of Thanksgiving holidays, covid, their in-house manufacturing (not actually in-house?), 3rd party suppliers? Nobody really knows and Optimus can't be bothered to send out even a single email to customers.


----------



## Shawnb99

I’ve said it before and I’m saying it again. If people are not prepared to wait then do NOT ****ing preorder stuff.


----------



## straha20

Shawnb99 said:


> I’ve said it before and I’m saying it again. If people are not prepared to wait then do NOT ****ing preorder stuff.


I wouldn't have preordered if the eta was represented as mid December rather than mid November, so lesson learned here. At least as far as Optimus goes.

The toughest part for me is that they have already taken the money from my account, and have been sitting on it for over a month now, pretty much locking me in and not being able to take the $418 elsewhere without going through the hassle of getting a refund. Which given their customer support, wouldn't surprise me if that took another month as well.

So, I will continue to wait for my block because I do actually want it, and I will no doubt be happy with it, but this has been a terrible overall experience. Would absolutely recommend their products if you can find them available in stock through a third party, but no way would I ever recommend dealing directly with Optimus.


----------



## Shawnb99

Why would they put a December eta when they were originally meant to go out in November? You can’t plan for unexpected delays so why give a eta a month off and lose sales when you might not have to? I’m sure Optimus wanted to get the block out sooner but **** happens. We the consumers DEMANDED to pre-order so they let us, you can’t turn around and get made if there’s a delay. 
Waiting sucks I know but that’s the nature of a pre-order and wanting stuff first.


----------



## evilbob2200

whaleboy_4096 said:


> Just make sure it's pure isopropyl and not the rubbing alcohol that has aloe in it


90+ percent is best but kinda hard to get right now


----------



## evilbob2200

straha20 said:


> I wouldn't have preordered if the eta was represented as mid December rather than mid November, so lesson learned here. At least as far as Optimus goes.
> 
> The toughest part for me is that they have already taken the money from my account, and have been sitting on it for over a month now, pretty much locking me in and not being able to take the $418 elsewhere without going through the hassle of getting a refund. Which given their customer support, wouldn't surprise me if that took another month as well.
> 
> So, I will continue to wait for my block because I do actually want it, and I will no doubt be happy with it, but this has been a terrible overall experience. Would absolutely recommend their products if you can find them available in stock through a third party, but no way would I ever recommend dealing directly with Optimus.


compared to my light saber hobby this wait is nothing lol ive been waiting on an obi wan light saber with a crystal reveal for over a year


----------



## evilbob2200

straha20 said:


> It'll be interesting to see how this plays out...
> 
> Performance PC's is having a giveaway for an Optimus FTW3 3080/3090 water block. So...is that a good sign for those of us waiting for ours that they are actually ready to go and we'll be getting ours soon, or is it bad for the contest winner that they might end up waiting a while, or is it that the contest winner will get one way before the already paid customers? Hmmm...


where? i didnt see it


----------



## straha20

evilbob2200 said:


> where? i didnt see it











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----------



## evilbob2200

straha20 said:


> BLACK FRIDAY DEALS from PPCS! Coupons & New Products!
> 
> 
> With the arrival of the Holiday Season, all of us at Performance-PCs.com would like to wish all our customers and their families a happy and joyous Thanksgiving Holiday Weekend! ...and now offering these unbelievable Door Busters! Gear up for the Holidays with Black Friday savings from...
> 
> 
> 
> mailchi.mp


thanks!


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> I wouldn't have preordered if the eta was represented as mid December rather than mid November, so lesson learned here. At least as far as Optimus goes.
> 
> The toughest part for me is that they have already taken the money from my account, and have been sitting on it for over a month now, pretty much locking me in and not being able to take the $418 elsewhere without going through the hassle of getting a refund. Which given their customer support, wouldn't surprise me if that took another month as well.
> 
> So, I will continue to wait for my block because I do actually want it, and I will no doubt be happy with it, but this has been a terrible overall experience. Would absolutely recommend their products if you can find them available in stock through a third party, but no way would I ever recommend dealing directly with Optimus.


Heatkiller FTW3 Block has also been delayed so no real issue imo.


----------



## Shawnb99

Everything is suffering from delays. One part can delay the whole thing. Just something we all have to deal with.


----------



## sakete

evilbob2200 said:


> compared to my light saber hobby this wait is nothing lol ive been waiting on an obi wan light saber with a crystal reveal for over a year


A real Jedi makes his own lightsaber.


----------



## gengar

straha20 said:


> The toughest part for me is that they have already taken the money from my account, and have been sitting on it for over a month now, pretty much locking me in and not being able to take the $418 elsewhere without going through the hassle of getting a refund. Which given their customer support, wouldn't surprise me if that took another month as well.


The only good thing I can say about my multi-month debacle with Optimus is that they refunded within a business day when I canceled the order. So I'd def just go ahead and cancel if you're unhappy. Of course, this also means someone is actually reading all the e-mails, just not responding to the vast majority of them. Certainly it's better than not refunding money in a timely manner, but yeah this experience is Optimus in a nutshell. No one should be surprised at all at this point.


----------



## evilbob2200

sakete said:


> A real Jedi makes his own lightsaber.


not with my janky ass arthritic hands ****s way harder to do than building a computer or a loop. Trust me ive tried lol


----------



## RichKnecht

Decided to remove the center o-ring today. Max temps stayed the same, but now the spread between cores is 4 degrees. Pretty darn good if you ask me. I am becoming an Optimus believer. Now where can I find a MO-RA 3 420.....


----------



## originxt

They just need to be more conservative with their release dates. The block performance is there and the numbers and sales show it. They can't just increase production without incurring heavy costs and no guarantee of continued need for machinery so I understand their slow production. But they do let us know of tentative dates, not firm dates.

In other news, I got a rma unit for my 3090 ftw3 non ultra and it pulls less than 400 watts no matter the load I throw at it. Guess I'm rmaing the rma lol. Really hope I can convince them to send me a brand new unit but unsure if the stock is there or I should just keep my original card.


----------



## D-EJ915

gengar said:


> The only good thing I can say about my multi-month debacle with Optimus is that they refunded within a business day when I canceled the order. So I'd def just go ahead and cancel if you're unhappy. Of course, this also means someone is actually reading all the e-mails, just not responding to the vast majority of them. Certainly it's better than not refunding money in a timely manner, but yeah this experience is Optimus in a nutshell. No one should be surprised at all at this point.


I canceled my Am4 block as my friend is purchasing my 5950x and it was pretty quick, I contacted through the form on the website.


----------



## sakete

D-EJ915 said:


> I canceled my Am4 block as my friend is purchasing my 5950x and it was pretty quick, I contacted through the form on the website.


Moving on from 5950X already? It's only been out for a couple weeks.


----------



## evilbob2200

sakete said:


> Moving on from 5950X already? It's only been out for a couple weeks.


yeah dont get why lol its A borderline threadripper and has pretty amazing game performance


----------



## Section31

Running into odd issue. Basically during leak testing noticed no leaks, pump is on but water is not travelling around the system. I checked the reservoir to cpu block and no water is in it. Water loop rises non stop


----------



## Shawnb99

New Bitspower vertical mount is on the way, hopefully this should provide more then enough support to work upside down. Also very pleased PPC’s picked up I was using a different address and contacted me to confirm I made the order, just great CS


----------



## sok0

Section31 said:


> Running into odd issue. Basically during leak testing noticed no leaks, pump is on but water is not travelling around the system. I checked the reservoir to cpu block and no water is in it. Water loop rises non stop
> 
> View attachment 2466832


Either the pump is jacked up or you have the inlet/outlet's messed up. Cant really see the pump from the picture.


----------



## EniGma1987

Section31 said:


> Running into odd issue. Basically during leak testing noticed no leaks, pump is on but water is not travelling around the system. I checked the reservoir to cpu block and no water is in it. Water loop rises non stop
> 
> View attachment 2466832


Maybe from where the pump is down low like that it is not able to pump water up enough to get it back o the reservoir. A D5 should be able to, but maybe the Optimus block is just too restrictive to do it at the end of your look there.


----------



## Section31

EniGma1987 said:


> Maybe from where the pump is down low like that it is not able to pump water up enough to get it back o the reservoir. A D5 should be able to, but maybe the Optimus block is just too restrictive to do it at the end of your look there.


Its an temporary setup till i can get the heatkiller rads and optimus gpu block. I may just go air cooling for now


----------



## asdf893

Shawnb99 said:


> I’ve said it before and I’m saying it again. If people are not prepared to wait then do NOT ****ing preorder stuff.


I waited as long as they said I'd be waiting. I think you meant "If people are not prepared to be lied to then do not preorder stuff from Optimus".


----------



## asdf893

evilbob2200 said:


> compared to my light saber hobby this wait is nothing lol ive been waiting on an obi wan light saber with a crystal reveal for over a year


This is some interesting mental gymnastics to justify malicious optimus' behavior.


----------



## asdf893

Section31 said:


> Heatkiller FTW3 Block has also been delayed so no real issue imo.


This has nothing to do with Optimus taking payments, missing delivery date, and not informing anyone. But OK.


----------



## Shawnb99

asdf893 said:


> I waited as long as they said I'd be waiting. I think you meant "If people are not prepared to be lied to then do not preorder stuff from Optimus".


Nobody lied. Delays happen but since you can’t understand that then I can’t help you. Don’t preorder it’s not for people like you.


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> This has nothing to do with Optimus taking payments, missing delivery date, and not informing anyone. But OK.


More saying how lot of water parts releases this year have been delayed. Either launching or shipping. Offtopic but this week Mando episode was interesting, felt like typical Dave Filoni episode that expands the Star Wars Universe and we got to see live action Ahsoka.


----------



## KedarWolf

asdf893 said:


> This has nothing to do with Optimus taking payments, missing delivery date, and not informing anyone. But OK.


Local store took my preorder of a 5950x CPU on launch day Nov. 5th. Still waiting. Best case scenario, just before Xmas, worst case scenario, a few more months.

So it's not just Optimus, COVID is affecting everything and everyone.


----------



## ThrashZone

asdf893 said:


> I waited as long as they said I'd be waiting. I think you meant "If people are not prepared to be lied to then do not preorder stuff from Optimus".





asdf893 said:


> This is some interesting mental gymnastics to justify malicious optimus' behavior.


Hi,
I don't believe optimus is doing preorders.
They announce 1st-2nd... batch readiness 
Hard to take that as malicious Governors and Mayors are being more malicious shutting down economies which optimus and thousands of other companies are effected.


----------



## ExDarkxH

They personally responded to me via email saying they expect to ship end of month (aka now) after thanksgiving.
They should have learned from the many many lessons of the past and not been overly optimistic with their ETA. Also not buying their "we are in Chicago and they might shut us down" BS
I live and operate a business here no new restrictions have been imposed since the day they collected the money. I'm importing thousands of pounds of products from all over the world and still get things done. There are delays here and there but they arnt substantial. They shouldn't get a pass because of corona. They made these timelines with corona in mind...
They should have began developing the blocks beforehand as its reasonable to assume it would have sold out regardless. Why did anyone need to preorder honestly? Let me guess, it was to lock us in so that we don't buy another waterblock
Did they need to use our money to develop these products? This crappy company doesnt have operating revenue to develop products and needs our advanced payment to fund operations? what a chit company

If I had expected a December delivery date I wouldn't be upset at all, it's when you expect it at a certain time and keep getting disappointed because they fail to deliver. It's the same old story with this company. This isnt a corona thing this is an optimus thing

$400 for just a waterblock is no joke. You can buy a full blown 3070 for slightly more money.
When you take $400 in advance and tell them it will be about a month, it better not be more than 5 weeks. When you tell them sorry we have a new eta of end of the month, YOU BETTER hit that second eta after missing the first.
I fully expect the block next week, that would be 7 weeks after taking payment. If it goes longer than that I will simply call my credit card company and have them reverse the charge


----------



## Shawnb99

I’m waiting 2 months on a pair of distro plates that were said to ready in a week. **** happens It’s not just an Optimus thing. Some people just shouldn’t preorder. Learn to accept your limitations.
Otherwise learn to wait or order from PPC when they have stock.


----------



## ExDarkxH

Preorder =/= prepayment


----------



## ExDarkxH

Its different if you take a preorder and then miss your deadline
Who cares?

Its when you take money in advance that you need to deliver. You cant take 2 months and especially cant give customers absolutely no updates
Its pathetic that i have to email them from 3 different emails (as 3 different ppl) and after 2 weeks later they finally respond to 1 email 

I mean their website still says mid November for crying out loud. They cant be bothered to at least update that? What is this a 5person company?
Embarrassing


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Sort of in special order land where no refunds are fairly normal but in this case is very doable.


----------



## Shawnb99

All the preorders I’ve made involved paying in advance. Smaller companies don’t always have the funds to pre-pay for everything. Don’t pre-purchase then, call it whatever you want. I’d have sympathy if Optimus listed the items as in stock and ready to ship but they aren’t so it’s on you. Hopefully now you learned your lesson. They are still offering refunds, that’s more then most so be happy you even get that.


----------



## EniGma1987

So I got my 5800X installed today and everything set up and running some stress tests to make sure the system is fully stable before I start overclocking it. This is my first time on Ryzen with my personal PC. Is 89c degrees with an Optimus waterblock normal for when running Prime95 and yCruncher both with AXV2? I would have expected much lower. My 8700K and Heatkiller never went past 70~ C

I did check TIM contact before getting the loop all set up, and the loop is running correctly. Water is flowing quite fast. Graphics card is maybe a couple degrees warmer than before so I know things are working fine there.


----------



## Keith Myers

How much radiator do you have? Off the cuff I would say, no that is way too high for those loads. I'm currently playing with a new BIOS and testing with both Prime95 and y-cruncher and I have not gone past 82° C. in y-cruncher BBP and SFT tests or Prime95 small FFT tests. My normal BOINC crunching loads stay normally around 65-70° C.
Those are my typical temps for both a 3900X and 3950X. The 5800X is spec'd at the same 105W TDP. What do other Zen 3 users report?


----------



## dante`afk

interesting discussion here.

Well guess I did right by cancelling my preorder a week ago. I got a bitspower and bykski block coming on Monday, less than one week delivery time.


----------



## mongoled

EniGma1987 said:


> So I got my 5800X installed today and everything set up and running some stress tests to make sure the system is fully stable before I start overclocking it. This is my first time on Ryzen with my personal PC. Is 89c degrees with an Optimus waterblock normal for when running Prime95 and yCruncher both with AXV2? I would have expected much lower. My 8700K and Heatkiller never went past 70~ C
> 
> I did check TIM contact before getting the loop all set up, and the loop is running correctly. Water is flowing quite fast. Graphics card is maybe a couple degrees warmer than before so I know things are working fine there.


Firstly, Intel not same as AMD to quote the obvious.

Next, need more details on how you are running your setup.

As you have not said anything regards how you are running your setup Im going to assume you are using default settings which means PBO is on AUTO.

PBO will raise the clock frequency up to 90C and sustain that frequency at that temp with the required voltage.

So if you use an aircooler or a top tier waterblock using PBO will result in the same temp just differentmax clock speed.

Thats how it should work in theory, but because of different BIOS implementations it does not always work outthat way.

Next, there have been a number of reports that some 5800x are running hotter than others, but because of immature BIOS, its not clear if its the CPUs, user settings, other variable etc.

The only way to do comparative testing is to lock your CPU to a fixed frequency and a fixed voltage. This will gve other peeps who run a 5800x a baseline to help answer your question.


----------



## EniGma1987

Keith Myers said:


> How much radiator do you have? Off the cuff I would say, no that is way too high for those loads. I'm currently playing with a new BIOS and testing with both Prime95 and y-cruncher and I have not gone past 82° C. in y-cruncher BBP and SFT tests or Prime95 small FFT tests. My normal BOINC crunching loads stay normally around 65-70° C.


I have a fat 120mm radiator with dual 2000rpm fans on the back and a really fat 360mm radiator with six 2000rpm fans on the front. Water temp seems to be fine. I think it probably has to do with what mongoled said.




mongoled said:


> As you have not said anything regards how you are running your setup Im going to assume you are using default settings which means PBO is on AUTO.
> 
> PBO will raise the clock frequency up to 90C and sustain that frequency at that temp with the required voltage.
> 
> So if you use an aircooler or a top tier waterblock using PBO will result in the same temp just differentmax clock speed.


This is most likely it then. As it is a solid 89c, no fluctuation in temp only in frequency. Ill be digging more into AMD stuff, but this had me a bit concerned that such a well rated block was up that high.


----------



## evilbob2200

asdf893 said:


> This is some interesting mental gymnastics to justify malicious optimus' behavior.


its hardly malicious theres a pandemic dude and if you dont have patience dont preorder. If you message them they basiccaly answer. so like i dunno i dont feel out of breath so im not really doin any gymnastics lol


----------



## Keith Myers

EniGma1987 said:


> I have a fat 120mm radiator with dual 2000rpm fans on the back and a really fat 360mm radiator with six 2000rpm fans on the front. Water temp seems to be fine. I think it probably has to do with what mongoled said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is most likely it then. As it is a solid 89c, no fluctuation in temp only in frequency. Ill be digging more into AMD stuff, but this had me a bit concerned that such a well rated block was up that high.


Do try the newest BIOS for your board. Hopeful it has the new PBO2 algorithm with AGESA 1180. I am having great results with the beta 4001 ASUS C7H BIOS for my 3900X as a test rig. Getting better clocks and temps than I ever did on the 3004 BIOS. Auto and PBO is actually useful for all-core crunching clocks. It is working so well I think I will deploy it to my 3950X host also today.


----------



## Section31

EniGma1987 said:


> So I got my 5800X installed today and everything set up and running some stress tests to make sure the system is fully stable before I start overclocking it. This is my first time on Ryzen with my personal PC. Is 89c degrees with an Optimus waterblock normal for when running Prime95 and yCruncher both with AXV2? I would have expected much lower. My 8700K and Heatkiller never went past 70~ C
> 
> I did check TIM contact before getting the loop all set up, and the loop is running correctly. Water is flowing quite fast. Graphics card is maybe a couple degrees warmer than before so I know things are working fine there.


I was just about to bring up same point. I am getting 75degree on cinebench r23. I am using only using my mo-ra3 420, which is overkill itself. I have checked waterloop temperature and water loop temp is under 20degrees

I have it at manual oc of 4.7ghz, latest bios, fixed voltage of 1.30volts (cpu core) and 1.10volts (soc cache). Pbo, autocore etc disabled. I hope the 5950x are better on temps or maybe asus x570 hero viii bios are still immature


----------



## Section31

New low result of 65degrees but really unrealistic conditions.


----------



## Section31




----------



## LiquidHaus

Ryzen 5000 series runs hotter. 10-15c hotter on average. There's articles talking about this, and AMD reps have confirmed it. Nothing to be stressed out about.

I have two 5600X's, both at 4.8ghz and both with exceptional cooling to handle them. They both peak at around 70-73c under max load. Both are 1.312 vcore.


----------



## LiquidHaus

dante`afk said:


> interesting discussion here.
> 
> Well guess I did right by cancelling my preorder a week ago. I got a bitspower and bykski block coming on Monday, less than one week delivery time.


I couldn't find any blocks for the FTW3 by either company. Links to those blocks please?


----------



## JustinThyme

EniGma1987 said:


> So I got my 5800X installed today and everything set up and running some stress tests to make sure the system is fully stable before I start overclocking it. This is my first time on Ryzen with my personal PC. Is 89c degrees with an Optimus waterblock normal for when running Prime95 and yCruncher both with AXV2? I would have expected much lower. My 8700K and Heatkiller never went past 70~ C
> 
> I did check TIM contact before getting the loop all set up, and the loop is running correctly. Water is flowing quite fast. Graphics card is maybe a couple degrees warmer than before so I know things are working fine there.


Sounds a bit warm on stock clocks. cant really compare it to an 8700K but what I can tell you is I dont hit 89 with a 10980XE @4.8 1,225Vcore. Then again I dont use P95. My equation is P95=how to turn PC into space heater. Use blender benchmark or CB23.


----------



## dante`afk

there is none, I sold my ftw3 and bought an FE due to these reasons (and because of the crappy 500w bios)


----------



## DooRules

dante`afk said:


> there is none, I sold my ftw3 and bought an FE due to these reasons (and because of the crappy 500w bios)


I just requested a refund as well. I should be able to order the KP this week. Will also be selling my FTW3.


----------



## ThrashZone

dante`afk said:


> there is none, I sold my ftw3 and bought an FE due to these reasons (and because of the crappy 500w bios)


Hi,
Well at least you didn't have to put the card back together to return it lol


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Ryzen 5000 series runs hotter. 10-15c hotter on average. There's articles talking about this, and AMD reps have confirmed it. Nothing to be stressed out about.
> 
> I have two 5600X's, both at 4.8ghz and both with exceptional cooling to handle them. They both peak at around 70-73c under max load. Both are 1.312 vcore.


Hopefully like the 3950x, these 5950x run slightly cooler.


----------



## Section31

DooRules said:


> I just requested a refund as well. I should be able to order the KP this week. Will also be selling my FTW3.


Your 3090ftw3 randomly died?


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Your 3090ftw3 randomly died?


Hi,
Nope likely just that KP doesn't need a water block out the box and he's not happy with ftw3 performance even with cold Canadian air cooling 
Plus tired of waiting for a water block for the ftw3


----------



## DooRules

Section31 said:


> Your 3090ftw3 randomly died?


No, running fine, was always my intention to get the KP if possible. Thought it would be much later on release


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Nope likely just that KP doesn't need a water block out the box and he's not happy with ftw3 performance even with cold Canadian air cooling
> Plus tired of waiting for a water block for the ftw3
> View attachment 2467143


I have been reading about how ftw3 are randomly dying like the turing cards at launch.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> I have been reading about how ftw3 are randomly dying like the turing cards at launch.


Hi,
Wouldn't be a surprise but i haven't read about any yet.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Wouldn't be a surprise but i haven't read about any yet.


Its on evga own forums


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Its on evga own forums


Hi,
Yeah 20 series had tubers early on reporting it so at least that hasn't happened yet.


----------



## straha20

I'm not going to cancel my order at this point, because sunk-cost fallacy. I've already waited this long, so still holding out hope for "soon"


----------



## oreonutz

Section31 said:


> Its on evga own forums


Damn. I have had my FTW3 3080 running literally non stop since I bought and installed it about 2 weeks after launch (Oct 1st). I run it pretty hard too, and have had some weird issues (Mainly driver crashing randomly in a youtube video about once a week or so). If this card dies, that would really really really piss me off. Still have my 1080ti Handy, but, I hope that this is just the normal 1% or so failure rate, and not something more...

In other news, I haven't gone back and read the past 2 weeks or so. Any one know if we have a new ETA for the 1st run blocks yet? I am starting to think I am just going to buy an EK Block just to hold me over, but don't want to waste the money as I still have a 3080 Block I wasted money on I can't use. Speaking of, anyone want a block for a 3080 reference model? Its open but unused, lol!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
EVGA has good rma so I wouldn't worry about it 
ASUS items now I'd worry lol


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> EVGA has good rma so I wouldn't worry about it
> ASUS items now I'd worry lol


Yep. They'll even cross ship for RMA. Did it recently with a PSU.


----------



## straha20

@*Optimus WC...*

You had to know this was coming, but what is the latest you have for us? When is the first round of blocks going to ship now that we are solidly past mid-November, and after Thanksgiving?


----------



## ExDarkxH

They will come up with a new excuse of course


----------



## Shawnb99

ExDarkxH said:


> View attachment 2467251
> 
> They will come up with a new excuse of course


And you’ll find a new excuse to hate on them. Thanks for stopping by


----------



## Mroberts95

ExDarkxH said:


> View attachment 2467251
> 
> They will come up with a new excuse of course


Its been less than 2 weeks with that message including the holidays. If its first part of December no news then you can be frustrated.


----------



## straha20

Mroberts95 said:


> Its been less than 2 weeks with that message including the holidays. If its first part of December no news then you can be frustrated.


Well, first part of December is most of this week. A week from today, and December will be nearly 25% over.


----------



## Shawnb99

straha20 said:


> Well, first part of December is most of this week. A week from today, and December will be nearly 25% over.


Thanks for explaining how time and a calendar works.


----------



## ExDarkxH

they didnt say December specifically. They made sure to emphasis
"RIGHT AFTER" thanksgiving.
I believe they intend to ship today or tmrw at the latest

I wouldn't mind if I got the product this week by Dec 4th Friday

If not, this company loses all credibility and goodwill it ever had

supposedly everything is lined up and they are only delayed 1-2 weeks


----------



## Avacado

Most certainly agree with the complainers here. Most people CAN and WILL wait for a superior product even when there is not a specific date given. On the other hand, being strung along from ship date to ship date is infuriating. 

Lesson: If you don't know when it will ship or can't give an exact date, then don't. 

P.S. The foundation block rocks.


----------



## RichKnecht

I hate waiting just as much as everyone else. However, I think that this is a pretty small company with minimal staff and I don't think they knew what a following they would have or the crazy demand for their products after such a short time. If you want a refund, then get one. This time of year sucks as it is, throw in Covid, and it becomes a mess.


----------



## evilbob2200

oreonutz said:


> Damn. I have had my FTW3 3080 running literally non stop since I bought and installed it about 2 weeks after launch (Oct 1st). I run it pretty hard too, and have had some weird issues (Mainly driver crashing randomly in a youtube video about once a week or so). If this card dies, that would really really really piss me off. Still have my 1080ti Handy, but, I hope that this is just the normal 1% or so failure rate, and not something more...
> 
> In other news, I haven't gone back and read the past 2 weeks or so. Any one know if we have a new ETA for the 1st run blocks yet? I am starting to think I am just going to buy an EK Block just to hold me over, but don't want to waste the money as I still have a 3080 Block I wasted money on I can't use. Speaking of, anyone want a block for a 3080 reference model? Its open but unused, lol!


did you refresh your drivers when you upgraded? had something similar in the past and clearing the display drivers and reinstalling them solved it.


----------



## oreonutz

evilbob2200 said:


> did you refresh your drivers when you upgraded? had something similar in the past and clearing the display drivers and reinstalling them solved it.


Yeah, I always DDU between drivers just to rule out BS, and I had this time as well, and then went and DDU'd before upgrading to the newest set too, didn't help. But I wasn't complaining about that, just adding to my experience to Section31's post about EVGA Cards failing. I have already been in contact with NVidia about the issue of the drivers crashing, turns out its actually a common issue with the 3000 Series cards for people using more than 1 Monitor, and the Power Management being set to optimal, and then a program like Chrome using Hardware Acceleration. Every now and again (For me its once a week or so) when the card is in a low power state, the program using Hardware Acceleration will demand a slightly higher workload from the card then it was prepared to give, and then the screen goes black for about 10 seconds while the driver resets, then back to normal. I fixed this simply by setting the power management level up a notch for every program using Hardware Acceleration. Thankfully for games or things more demanding it hasn't been an issue at all.

I can't wait for my Optimus Block!!!!


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> Yeah, I always DDU between drivers just to rule out BS, and I had this time as well, and then went and DDU'd before upgrading to the newest set too, didn't help. But I wasn't complaining about that, just adding to my experience to Section31's post about EVGA Cards failing. I have already been in contact with NVidia about the issue of the drivers crashing, turns out its actually a common issue with the 3000 Series cards for people using more than 1 Monitor, and the Power Management being set to optimal, and then a program like Chrome using Hardware Acceleration. Every now and again (For me its once a week or so) when the card is in a low power state, the program using Hardware Acceleration will demand a slightly higher workload from the card then it was prepared to give, and then the screen goes black for about 10 seconds while the driver resets, then back to normal. I fixed this simply by setting the power management level up a notch for every program using Hardware Acceleration. Thankfully for games or things more demanding it hasn't been an issue at all.
> 
> I can't wait for my Optimus Block!!!!


Hopefully can order soon myself.,


----------



## oreonutz

So I finally upgraded to the 5900x in my personal rig. I've had the chip for a few weeks now, but got swamped at work, and thought I was going to have to do an entire Mobo Swap, so I haven't taken the time to do that yet. I have a C8H Ready to replace my C7H, just need the time to do it, plus I have a bunch of other new kit I was planning to install at the same time. Well, I just found out late last night that there was a Beta Bios released for the C7H some weeks ago, giving it Zen3 Support. So, I said screw the Mobo Upgrade and just through it in. I haven't even had time to put the 5900x on my Test Bench yet, so I had no idea what to expect.

I had read some posts on this forum saying to expect temperature increases between the 3000 series and the 5000 series. Now I did swap out the paste I was using from the Kryonaut paste that I have been using for a few years now, to the Kingpin paste that I just started using earlier this year, and I have noticed a good 2 to 3c just from switching that, but I did not expect to see my temps drop by 10c when going from the 3950x to the 5900x. In the same exact workloads across the board I am seeing lower temps. The Amperage is about 10% lower on average I have noticed, so maybe that accounts for the 10c drop in temps, in fact it probably does, but I am just wondering if any of you guys have seen the same drop?

I usually work with the new architecture once it releases a lot more than I have this generation, so I have a LOT less data to go on then I normally have. But would be interested to see your guys experience who went from a 3000 series 2 CCD Chip to a 5000 Series 2 CCD Chip, with the only thing changing being the CPU, and see if your temps increased or decreased.

With the 3950x I was using a Per CCX OC that actually would lower my temps compared to auto simply because I used a lot less voltage than auto would use. During a 10 Min CB R20 run, My Temps would settle in right around 79c area at a 25c Room Temp. Now with the 5900x during the Same CB R20 10 Min Multi Core Run, My Temps settle in at the 67c Range, and that was with a 26.7c Room Ambient. This using the same AMD Foundation Optimus Block on both. (I also just went back and found some screen grabs of testing I did with the 3900x with the Optimus Block on the same C7H Mobo, and that was also topping out right around 81c at the end of a 10m CB R20 Run, and it was using exactly 101amps, or 130w, while my 5900x is using 98amps at about 115w, so that shows the voltage is about 100ma lower on the 5900x, with the 5900x coming it at 1.173v during the test and the 3900x using 1.275v during its run. I still don't think that accounts for the drastic 10c+ temp difference though, as we are only talking about a 15w difference in total heat output. Anyways, just curious, no point to any of this really, other than to see if any of you guys are seeing similar results with your new CPU's.)

I will shut up now...

Oh Here is a screenshot about 4 minutes into a 5 minutes CB R20 Run with my 5900x.










The Outcome of that run:









And according to my notes, this is a screenshot taken right at the end of a CB R20 run, with my 3900x. Unfortunately not all the same HWinfo Information is given in this screenshot, but most of what is needed to compare is there.

*Edit: Accidently Posted Wrong CB R20 Run, this is the correct one with the 3900x (Accidently had posted a 3950x result.)








*


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> So I finally upgraded to the 5900x in my personal rig. I've had the chip for a few weeks now, but got swamped at work, and thought I was going to have to do an entire Mobo Swap, so I haven't taken the time to do that yet. I have a C8H Ready to replace my C7H, just need the time to do it, plus I have a bunch of other new kit I was planning to install at the same time. Well, I just found out late last night that there was a Beta Bios released for the C7H some weeks ago, giving it Zen3 Support. So, I said screw the Mobo Upgrade and just through it in. I haven't even had time to put the 5900x on my Test Bench yet, so I had no idea what to expect.
> 
> I had read some posts on this forum saying to expect temperature increases between the 3000 series and the 5000 series. Now I did swap out the paste I was using from the Kryonaut paste that I have been using for a few years now, to the Kingpin paste that I just started using earlier this year, and I have noticed a good 2 to 3c just from switching that, but I did not expect to see my temps drop by 10c when going from the 3950x to the 5900x. In the same exact workloads across the board I am seeing lower temps. The Amperage is about 10% lower on average I have noticed, so maybe that accounts for the 10c drop in temps, in fact it probably does, but I am just wondering if any of you guys have seen the same drop?
> 
> I usually work with the new architecture once it releases a lot more than I have this generation, so I have a LOT less data to go on then I normally have. But would be interested to see your guys experience who went from a 3000 series 2 CCD Chip to a 5000 Series 2 CCD Chip, with the only thing changing being the CPU, and see if your temps increased or decreased.
> 
> With the 3950x I was using a Per CCX OC that actually would lower my temps compared to auto simply because I used a lot less voltage than auto would use. During a 10 Min CB R20 run, My Temps would settle in right around 79c area at a 25c Room Temp. Now with the 5900x during the Same CB R20 10 Min Multi Core Run, My Temps settle in at the 67c Range, and that was with a 26.7c Room Ambient. This using the same AMD Foundation Optimus Block on both. (I also just went back and found some screen grabs of testing I did with the 3900x with the Optimus Block on the same C7H Mobo, and that was also topping out right around 81c at the end of a 10m CB R20 Run, and it was using exactly 101amps, or 130w, while my 5900x is using 98amps at about 115w, so that shows the voltage is about 100ma lower on the 5900x, with the 5900x coming it at 1.173v during the test and the 3900x using 1.275v during its run. I still don't think that accounts for the drastic 10c+ temp difference though, as we are only talking about a 15w difference in total heat output. Anyways, just curious, no point to any of this really, other than to see if any of you guys are seeing similar results with your new CPU's.)
> 
> I will shut up now...
> 
> Oh Here is a screenshot about 4 minutes into a 5 minutes CB R20 Run with my 5900x.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Outcome of that run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And according to my notes, this is a screenshot taken right at the end of a CB R20 run, with my 3900x. Unfortunately not all the same HWinfo Information is given in this screenshot, but most of what is needed to compare is there.
> 
> *Edit: Accidently Posted Wrong CB R20 Run, this is the correct one with the 3900x (Accidently had posted a 3950x result.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Thats good news. Hopefully its same with my 5950x


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> So I finally upgraded to the 5900x in my personal rig. I've had the chip for a few weeks now, but got swamped at work, and thought I was going to have to do an entire Mobo Swap, so I haven't taken the time to do that yet. I have a C8H Ready to replace my C7H, just need the time to do it, plus I have a bunch of other new kit I was planning to install at the same time. Well, I just found out late last night that there was a Beta Bios released for the C7H some weeks ago, giving it Zen3 Support. So, I said screw the Mobo Upgrade and just through it in. I haven't even had time to put the 5900x on my Test Bench yet, so I had no idea what to expect.
> 
> I had read some posts on this forum saying to expect temperature increases between the 3000 series and the 5000 series. Now I did swap out the paste I was using from the Kryonaut paste that I have been using for a few years now, to the Kingpin paste that I just started using earlier this year, and I have noticed a good 2 to 3c just from switching that, but I did not expect to see my temps drop by 10c when going from the 3950x to the 5900x. In the same exact workloads across the board I am seeing lower temps. The Amperage is about 10% lower on average I have noticed, so maybe that accounts for the 10c drop in temps, in fact it probably does, but I am just wondering if any of you guys have seen the same drop?
> 
> I usually work with the new architecture once it releases a lot more than I have this generation, so I have a LOT less data to go on then I normally have. But would be interested to see your guys experience who went from a 3000 series 2 CCD Chip to a 5000 Series 2 CCD Chip, with the only thing changing being the CPU, and see if your temps increased or decreased.
> 
> With the 3950x I was using a Per CCX OC that actually would lower my temps compared to auto simply because I used a lot less voltage than auto would use. During a 10 Min CB R20 run, My Temps would settle in right around 79c area at a 25c Room Temp. Now with the 5900x during the Same CB R20 10 Min Multi Core Run, My Temps settle in at the 67c Range, and that was with a 26.7c Room Ambient. This using the same AMD Foundation Optimus Block on both. (I also just went back and found some screen grabs of testing I did with the 3900x with the Optimus Block on the same C7H Mobo, and that was also topping out right around 81c at the end of a 10m CB R20 Run, and it was using exactly 101amps, or 130w, while my 5900x is using 98amps at about 115w, so that shows the voltage is about 100ma lower on the 5900x, with the 5900x coming it at 1.173v during the test and the 3900x using 1.275v during its run. I still don't think that accounts for the drastic 10c+ temp difference though, as we are only talking about a 15w difference in total heat output. Anyways, just curious, no point to any of this really, other than to see if any of you guys are seeing similar results with your new CPU's.)
> 
> I will shut up now...
> 
> Oh Here is a screenshot about 4 minutes into a 5 minutes CB R20 Run with my 5900x.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Outcome of that run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And according to my notes, this is a screenshot taken right at the end of a CB R20 run, with my 3900x. Unfortunately not all the same HWinfo Information is given in this screenshot, but most of what is needed to compare is there.
> 
> *Edit: Accidently Posted Wrong CB R20 Run, this is the correct one with the 3900x (Accidently had posted a 3950x result.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Kingpin paste really better than Kryonaut? All the tests I've seen show Kryonaut performs better, arguably the best of the the non-LM TIMs.


----------



## RichKnecht

sakete said:


> Kingpin paste really better than Kryonaut? All the tests I've seen show Kryonaut performs better, arguably the best of the the non-LM TIMs.


I tried Kryonaut once and honestly wasn't all that impressed. Hard to spread, expensive for the amount you get, and temps were the same if not a degree or two hotter than my "go-to" Cooler Master Maker Nano paste. Super easy to spread and temps are good. I tried the Kingpin paste that came with the Sig V2, but I had to remount due to core temp spread being so wide. I then just used the Cooler Master paste as I usually do and put it all back together.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Wattage left alone, you're coming from a 16 core to a 12 core. I would hope it runs cooler. Kryonaut should also be performing better than KP as I have also seen in multiple tests. That being said, your testing methology is all over the place unfortunately. Different processors, different AGESA codes, different BIOS settings. The only thing you're keeping the same is the block.

Yesterday, I was able to get my second 5600X to 4.83ghz.

Here's a screenshot from that.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Wattage left alone, you're coming from a 16 core to a 12 core. I would hope it runs cooler. Kryonaut should also be performing better than KP as I have also seen in multiple tests. That being said, your testing methology is all over the place unfortunately. Different processors, different AGESA codes, different BIOS settings. The only thing you're keeping the same is the block.
> 
> Yesterday, I was able to get my second 5600X to 4.83ghz.
> 
> Here's a screenshot from that.


Nice Setup


----------



## Keith Myers

I've purchased and tried Kryonaut on multiple occasions and every time found it impossibly hard to apply. And got worse temperatures than what I was using previously.

And every time I have returned to my previous paste which was Arctic MX-4.

But I have recently changed to Kingpin and find it as easy to apply as the MX-4 and beats it in temps.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Are you in a low ambient setting? The paste viscosity changes quite a bit with temperature. I've been using Kryonaut since it's release and I have had zero issues applying it, but there have been times when I've had to slightly warm up the paste before application. Also, I would recommend watching GN's video on paste application. Spreading the paste with an applicator isn't something I personally do. Centered dot for Intel CPUs and GPUs, centered X for AMD CPUs.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Only thermal grizzly worth maybe using is hydronaut.


----------



## Keith Myers

LiquidHaus said:


> Are you in a low ambient setting? The paste viscosity changes quite a bit with temperature. I've been using Kryonaut since it's release and I have had zero issues applying it, but there have been times when I've had to slightly warm up the paste before application. Also, I would recommend watching GN's video on paste application. Spreading the paste with an applicator isn't something I personally do. Centered dot for Intel CPUs and GPUs, centered X for AMD CPUs.


I tried warming the Kryonaut up in hot water and it made no difference. Just won't stick. Just balls up and leaves way too thick an application. Tried both spreading with the provided applicator spoon and the traditional dot method. Just never worked. Every time I assumed I got a bad batch or something. Purchased from Amazon, Newegg and Performance PC's. After the third try, I said "3 strikes . . . you're out"


----------



## LiquidHaus

Keith Myers said:


> I tried warming the Kryonaut up in hot water and it made no difference. Just won't stick. Just balls up and leaves way too thick an application. Tried both spreading with the provided applicator spoon and the traditional dot method. Just never worked. Every time I assumed I got a bad batch or something. Purchased from Amazon, Newegg and Performance PC's. After the third try, I said "3 strikes . . . you're out"


Had you correctly prepped the application surface? Adhesion of the paste or the lack thereof sounds like another factor was compromising it's properties correctly. Also, there have been 'fake' Kryonaut products out there which stemmed from the fact that a few years ago, Kryonaut was THE paste to go with, and so there were counterfeit tubes of Kryonaut being circulated around. Either way for the consistent issues you were coming across, that'd be an easy email to TG about it. I'm sure they would have sent you a tube for free if you had provided photos or videos of the issue you were having. It isn't an issue I've ever heard of from anything TG.


----------



## Keith Myers

LiquidHaus said:


> Had you correctly prepped the application surface? Adhesion of the paste or the lack thereof sounds like another factor was compromising it's properties correctly. Also, there have been 'fake' Kryonaut products out there which stemmed from the fact that a few years ago, Kryonaut was THE paste to go with, and so there were counterfeit tubes of Kryonaut being circulated around. Either way for the consistent issues you were coming across, that'd be an easy email to TG about it. I'm sure they would have sent you a tube for free if you had provided photos or videos of the issue you were having. It isn't an issue I've ever heard of from anything TG.


I always clean all the old paste off with lint free cloths soaked in 91% isopropyl alcohol. Even tried with my can of methanol. No difference. Any other paste I've used with this method of cleaning has had 0 issues sticking and spreading easily into a very thin application.


----------



## Bart

Keith Myers said:


> I've purchased and tried Kryonaut on multiple occasions and every time found it impossibly hard to apply. And got worse temperatures than what I was using previously.
> 
> And every time I have returned to my previous paste which was Arctic MX-4.
> 
> But I have recently changed to Kingpin and find it as easy to apply as the MX-4 and beats it in temps.


I find the same, haven't tried Kingpin but I did try Kryonaut and decided 'never again'. I prefer to spread my paste nice and thin, don't like dot methods, so I prefer the easy spreading stuff. Plus new MX-4 is still great stuff anyways, I've seen no reason to switch.


----------



## sakete

Keith Myers said:


> I've purchased and tried Kryonaut on multiple occasions and every time found it impossibly hard to apply. And got worse temperatures than what I was using previously.
> 
> And every time I have returned to my previous paste which was Arctic MX-4.
> 
> But I have recently changed to Kingpin and find it as easy to apply as the MX-4 and beats it in temps.


I do have to admit, it's not very easy to apply. I might have to try something else as well. Historically I always used Arctic Silver 5, but when I moved over to Ryzen 9, I decided to give Kryonaut a try. It's just super thick and goopy.

I still have an unopened tube of Gelid GC Extreme somewhere, though it might be expired by now as I bought it years ago. Don't even know if I'll find it in my computer junk closet, haha.


----------



## EniGma1987

Keith Myers said:


> I tried warming the Kryonaut up in hot water and it made no difference. Just won't stick. Just balls up and leaves way too thick an application. Tried both spreading with the provided applicator spoon and the traditional dot method. Just never worked. Every time I assumed I got a bad batch or something. Purchased from Amazon, Newegg and Performance PC's. After the third try, I said "3 strikes . . . you're out"


Are you sure it is Kryonaut? Cause balling up doesnt sound like this at all, but rather Conductonaut which is a liquid metal. LM has a tendency to ball up and be hard to spread on all brand I have used. Kryonaut though is a basic paste and is quite thick. It sticks to anything it touches like every other thermal paste. Kryonaut cant even really ball up even if you tried to push it into little balls. The paste would just stick around on surfaces and make a mess.


----------



## Keith Myers

EniGma1987 said:


> Are you sure it is Kryonaut? Cause balling up doesnt sound like this at all, but rather Conductonaut which is a liquid metal. LM has a tendency to ball up and be hard to spread on all brand I have used. Kryonaut though is a basic paste and is quite thick. It sticks to anything it touches like every other thermal paste. Kryonaut cant even really ball up even if you tried to push it into little balls. The paste would just stick around on surfaces and make a mess.


Yes, it was Kryonaut. NOT liquid metal. By "balling up" I mean it never sticks to the IHS, it just pushes around and clumps together like when you are trying make a snowman.


----------



## Grumfuddock

Any updates on the 3090 FTW3 GPU blocks?


----------



## straha20

Grumfuddock said:


> Any updates on the 3090 FTW3 GPU blocks?


Anxiously waiting myself. Would be awesome if they shipped tomorrow so I could have it in time for a weekend build.


----------



## D-EJ915

Kryonaut is good but also garbage and scratches your coldplate (optimus foundation nickel plated) and ihs, I now either use kingpin or gc-extreme they are as good or better and don't. They're both harder to apply than like noctua or mx-4 but not like bubblegum like kryonaut. I used kryonaut for a while but after my last one went to **** I tossed them out lol. Luumi did get a bad patch of gc-extreme though so ymmv there.


----------



## oreonutz

Looks like I missed a lot of discussion today, been working all day, just finished...



Section31 said:


> Thats good news. Hopefully its same with my 5950x


Fingers Crossed.



sakete said:


> Kingpin paste really better than Kryonaut? All the tests I've seen show Kryonaut performs better, arguably the best of the the non-LM TIMs.





RichKnecht said:


> I tried Kryonaut once and honestly wasn't all that impressed. Hard to spread, expensive for the amount you get, and temps were the same if not a degree or two hotter than my "go-to" Cooler Master Maker Nano paste. Super easy to spread and temps are good. I tried the Kingpin paste that came with the Sig V2, but I had to remount due to core temp spread being so wide. I then just used the Cooler Master paste as I usually do and put it all back together.


So I really like Kryonaut, but in my experience from buying it for work for the past 2 years, its consistency seems to change from tube to tube. I buy it by those 10mL Tubes, and It will go from one Tube to being as I would expect, to the next tube having issues with spreading, or having core temperature delta's too big and needing to reapply. 

I ended up just switching back to MX-4 which is not high performance paste by any means, but it is consistent in its performance and good enough for most client's workstations, not to mention cheaper. I also switched over to Kingpin paste for anything where every degree matters. I've only been using it for about 6 months now (I only recently switched over the summer) and so far I have been pleased with it every time. 

When I did original testing in my lab with it, I mounted and applied (on my 3900x) a 180amp load at 1.35v for 30 minutes, logging the results, then unmounting, reapplying, and then testing again, I found in the 10 Mounts I did per Paste, Kingpin paste was by far the most consistent, Krynonaut sometimes was among the best performing with Kingpin but that was only when manually spreading, and sometimes it was near the worst performing when applying the x and 4 dot method, It was also dependent on the tube I used. I did not however try to warm it up, so I can't speak to that, all paste was applied at room temperature during my testing. 

MX-4 was also incredibly consistent, while performing on average a few degrees above the kingpin and kryonaut pastes. I could also just use the x and 4 dot method with MX-4 on the 3900x in my test bench and always achieve predictable results, so that is the paste I use in the field for 90 Percent of my clients. Kryonaut is damn good paste, I buy it all from PPC so I am pretty sure its not counterfeit, its just that I keep having problems with its consistency, so I decided to make a change.




LiquidHaus said:


> Wattage left alone, you're coming from a 16 core to a 12 core. I would hope it runs cooler. Kryonaut should also be performing better than KP as I have also seen in multiple tests. That being said, your testing methology is all over the place unfortunately. Different processors, different AGESA codes, different BIOS settings. The only thing you're keeping the same is the block.
> 
> Yesterday, I was able to get my second 5600X to 4.83ghz.
> 
> Here's a screenshot from that.


Yup, I totally get that, and 100 Percent acknowledged that. This was not meant as a test at all, I am sorry if I gave the impression that I meant otherwise. It was not my intent to say, "look at my findings isn't this crazy?", it was more to say that I didn't expect the temperatures to be this much below the 3000 series, has anyone else seen this because I don't have my sample meant for testing in my lab yet. this is just what I have seen in my personal rig and its not the best controlled environment and I recognize that, but I won't have my test chip in for another several weeks, so I am wondering if anyone else as seen anything similar.

I do know and have the data to show that both the 3950x and 3900x, despite the difference in cores have almost identical tdie temperatures when running similar loads because of the difference in voltage applied to each when runnning those loads, the 3950x in all of my test samples can sustain the same clocks at lower voltages then the 3900x, and while yes I would expect there to be a small 2 to 3 degree c difference when coming from a 3950x to 5900x, I would not expect there to be a 10 to 13c difference. 

Furthermore the 3900x in the same system because of the higher wattage applied drew even higher temps then my 3950x did. Again, I 100 Percent acknowledge that this was not a controlled test, and so that this in no way can be taken as evidence that this is what others can expect, but it has piqued my interest, and until my 5950x shows up in my lab, I was just asking if anyone here has seen anything similar, or is what I am seeing just a fluke?

Also, your builds still astonish me man, good damn job!



Keith Myers said:


> I've purchased and tried Kryonaut on multiple occasions and every time found it impossibly hard to apply. And got worse temperatures than what I was using previously.
> 
> And every time I have returned to my previous paste which was Arctic MX-4.
> 
> But I have recently changed to Kingpin and find it as easy to apply as the MX-4 and beats it in temps.


Yeah, for spreading manually it is definitely not as easy to work with as Kingpin or MX-4. That said it can be some really high performing paste, my issue with it is that it seems to go bad really easy, and sometimes it can ship to you already bad. Again though, I can't say that this is everyone's experience, for 2 years I ordered 1 Tube of 10mL a month from PPC for work, and of those I had issues with a total of 7 of my tubes, but that is hardly enough sample size to say that that is indicative of everyone's experience. I can definitely say though, of the 2 30mL Tubs of Kingpin that I have used so far, I have been impressed with its high performance and consistency, and with MX-4 I like it because it spreads itself easily, so you just need to apply an x, and mount 9 times out of 10 you will get a damn near perfect spread.


----------



## LiquidHaus

oreonutz said:


> _snip_


Good stuff man. The only thing I can add to that is simply that the 3950x features higher quality silicon, and so that's why you're getting the same clocks but with lower voltage. That's also a benefit to it's thermal performance compared to your 3900x as well. Myself, I had similar temperatures but also with overwhelming cooling lol. I'll be wanting to do some tests with a more common-ground cooling setup though, to give a more realistic roundabout for people to have some context with.

As for the Kryonaut - I am honestly pretty saddened by everyone's bad experiences with the paste. It's shocking to me. I have used it for years! Not once have I experienced anything bad with the paste. So at this point based on this small thread control group alone, I guess I'll say I simply got repeatedly lucky.


----------



## asdf893

straha20 said:


> Anxiously waiting myself. Would be awesome if they shipped tomorrow so I could have it in time for a weekend build.


Remember when their site said mid-Nov ETA? And then they haven't really updated us since taking payments in mid-Oct? At this point 2020 delivery would be surprising to me.


----------



## ExDarkxH

asdf893 said:


> Remember when their site said mid-Nov ETA? And then they haven't really updated us since taking payments in mid-Oct? At this point 2020 delivery would be surprising to me.


thinking there is no delay they just lied about the 4 week timeframe

They know if they said give us $400 now and we will send in 2 months that ppl wouldn't bite. They just wanted to lock people into a sale in case the other manufacturers started rolling out ftw3 blocks

The latest update, however, was insulting and straight up egregious. "We have everything lined up and ready to ship these out RIGHT AFTER thanksgiving"
This wasnt way out where a ton of unforeseeable things could occur, they said this literally a week before thanksgiving

Well? The ignoring emails and question dodging/complete silence on twitter indicates to me that they're not even close

Trash company. As you can see company reps are dodging this thread as well because they know they are in the wrong. 100% chance they are reading the comments though, just dodging because they cant face the music


----------



## asdf893

ExDarkxH said:


> thinking there is no delay they just lied about the 4 week timeframe
> 
> They know if they said give us $400 now and we will send in 2 months that ppl wouldn't bite. They just wanted to lock people into a sale in case the other manufacturers started rolling out ftw3 blocks
> 
> The latest update, however, was insulting and straight up egregious. "We have everything lined up and ready to ship these out RIGHT AFTER thanksgiving"
> This wasnt way out where a ton of unforeseeable things could occur, they said this literally a week before thanksgiving
> 
> Well? The ignoring emails and question dodging/complete silence on twitter indicates to me that they're not even close
> 
> Trash company. As you can see company reps are dodging this thread as well because they know they are in the wrong. 100% chance they are reading the comments though, just dodging because they cant face the music


You'll soon be reminded by a few fanboys here that pre-orders aren't for people like you if you don't like being misled.


----------



## ExDarkxH

Optimus WC said:


> We'll be opening up limited first batch this coming week, production starts end of this coming week, and then first batch blocks ship roughly 2-3 weeks after.


speaking of being misled

Yeah buddy, sure. Ship 2 weeks after....ok 
Why lie so much just to get sale?
That would have pegged it as a November 2nd ship date
Here we are a full month after that target and not even close to shipping


----------



## Shawnb99

ExDarkxH said:


> thinking there is no delay they just lied about the 4 week timeframe
> 
> They know if they said give us $400 now and we will send in 2 months that ppl wouldn't bite. They just wanted to lock people into a sale in case the other manufacturers started rolling out ftw3 blocks
> 
> The latest update, however, was insulting and straight up egregious. "We have everything lined up and ready to ship these out RIGHT AFTER thanksgiving"
> This wasnt way out where a ton of unforeseeable things could occur, they said this literally a week before thanksgiving
> 
> Well? The ignoring emails and question dodging/complete silence on twitter indicates to me that they're not even close
> 
> Trash company. As you can see company reps are dodging this thread as well because they know they are in the wrong. 100% chance they are reading the comments though, just dodging because they cant face the music


No one lied, so quit lying yourself and making **** up. Call them names all you want, you’re just showing who you are. Next time let mommy buy stuff for you, she’s obviously the adult here. Keep making an ass of yourself


----------



## LiquidHaus

I heard from someone that it'll be next week that they'll start shipping.


----------



## straha20

LiquidHaus said:


> I heard from someone that it'll be next week that they'll start shipping.


It'd be nice to hear it from Optimus.


----------



## asdf893

LiquidHaus said:


> I heard from someone that it'll be next week that they'll start shipping.


Who said that?


----------



## Section31

For those looking at other options, we won't get Heatkiller till early February lol. Not much better


----------



## LiquidHaus

From someone reliable. I am anxious about it just like you guys all are, but patience is the only thing we can have right now. If patience isn't something you can do anymore, then you can always cancel an order and move on.


----------



## jura11

LiquidHaus said:


> Good stuff man. The only thing I can add to that is simply that the 3950x features higher quality silicon, and so that's why you're getting the same clocks but with lower voltage. That's also a benefit to it's thermal performance compared to your 3900x as well. Myself, I had similar temperatures but also with overwhelming cooling lol. I'll be wanting to do some tests with a more common-ground cooling setup though, to give a more realistic roundabout for people to have some context with.
> 
> As for the Kryonaut - I am honestly pretty saddened by everyone's bad experiences with the paste. It's shocking to me. I have used it for years! Not once have I experienced anything bad with the paste. So at this point based on this small thread control group alone, I guess I'll say I simply got repeatedly lucky.


I got only good experience with Kryonaut and same applies for Noctua thermal paste and currently I switched to Thermalright TFX or if your budget is a bit tight then Aliexpress ZF-EX is good choice, currently testing that thermal paste on my Ryzen 3900x and temperatures are around 1-2°C lower than with Kryonaut

Thanks, Jura


----------



## asdf893

LiquidHaus said:


> From someone reliable. I am anxious about it just like you guys all are, but patience is the only thing we can have right now. If patience isn't something you can do anymore, then you can always cancel an order and move on.


Are you speaking on behalf of Optimus?


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> For those looking at other options, we won't get Heatkiller till early February lol. Not much better


Hi,
Yeah and that's a well established company that is taking preorders too lol

Optimus about one year ago popped up on this forum and frankly this year was/ is the worst ever that could happen for a 12 month old startup.
Doubt 2021 will be any better sadly with sleepy Joe lol


----------



## Shawnb99

asdf893 said:


> Are you speaking on behalf of Optimus?


Likely on behalf of common sense. If people can’t wait they shouldn’t pre-order. Whining about it doesn’t do any good, nor does making up BS stories.


----------



## ExDarkxH

optimus defense force out in full swing


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah and that's a well established company that is taking preorders too lol
> 
> Optimus about one year ago popped up on this forum and frankly this year was/ is the worst ever that could happen for a 12 month old startup.
> Doubt 2021 will be any better sadly with sleepy Joe lol


Yup, its bad because the reference card situation is ugly. It was not issue because founders were lot more available and were reference so waterblocks were available much faster as result. Reference cards took 1-2months to come out. Usually i would just buy reference as AIB oc are generally not needed but the situation made it the expensive AIB models are maybe the easiest to get. In the past, FTW3 had the worst support among waterblocks. 

If you look at even the Strix, EKWB only has an block. Aquacomputer Strix block is also 60day wait time, so that wait is just as bad. I waited like 2months for most of my aquacomputer orders this year.


----------



## HyperC

As someone that is from Illinois and that Owns a business many of them have not closed , As for Optimus not really sure what is the case but running that type of business shouldn't be hard to get away with staying open without any issues, But Illinois might not reopen until the new year I have heard Feb or March so if they follow those guidelines it is going to be a long wait


----------



## Section31

ExDarkxH said:


> optimus defense force out


As i mentioned, i think at this points its an industry wide issue. Couple of us in this forum are waiting for heatkiller new radiator. They told fall launch but its already approaching December. Do you see the people interested in them all up in anger? Only difference is they don't take preorders but leaking to us means we endup delaying our radiator purchases lol. I might have stuck with HWL GTS rads had i not known they were delaying this long.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> As i mentioned, i think at this points its an industry wide issue. Couple of us in this forum are waiting for heatkiller new radiator. They told fall launch but its already approaching December. Do you see the people interested in them all up in anger? Only difference is they don't take preorders but leaking to us means we endup delaying our radiator purchases lol. I might have stuck with HWL GTS rads had i not known they were delaying this long.


Don’t indulge a spoiled child. Let them throw their tantrum and cry themselves to sleep. Mommy needs to put them in a time out. Nothing we can do about bad parents who raise kids like that.


----------



## ThrashZone

HyperC said:


> As someone that is from Illinois and that Owns a business many of them have not closed , As for Optimus not really sure what is the case but running that type of business shouldn't be hard to get away with staying open without any issues, But Illinois might not reopen until the new year I have heard Feb or March so if they follow those guidelines it is going to be a long wait


Hi,
Someone else does optimus nickel plating.


----------



## ExDarkxH

HyperC said:


> As someone that is from Illinois and that Owns a business many of them have not closed , As for Optimus not really sure what is the case but running that type of business shouldn't be hard to get away with staying open without any issues, But Illinois might not reopen until the new year I have heard Feb or March so if they follow those guidelines it is going to be a long wait


I run a business in Illinois,
Some of the containers we import are 45,000lb and we're not having issues at the port or bringing them to Chicago. Maybe a 1 day delay at the rail. Redistribution of items without issue

We haven't seen any new obstacles being introduced related to corona. If there are delays within their company it's nothing to do with Illinois and its laws... thats just an excuse for them to buy more time



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Someone else does optimus nickel plating.


yes
that was supposedly resolved a month ago
They already tried that excuse and tried to make it believable by saying "we can always ship you without the nickel tho "
but of course many said, "well send us the copper then we dont need nickel"

well guess what, said waterblocks were not sent LOL
just a trash company
they lie about everything


----------



## Shawnb99

Ah the I did something soI know all about this argument. Done with the tantrum? Does your company make water cooling parts? If not then sit back down, you don’t know ****


----------



## straha20

HyperC said:


> As someone that is from Illinois and that Owns a business many of them have not closed , As for Optimus not really sure what is the case but running that type of business shouldn't be hard to get away with staying open without any issues, But Illinois might not reopen until the new year I have heard Feb or March so if they follow those guidelines it is going to be a long wait


Same in that I am in Illinois myself, and most non-customer facing businesses should really not be overly affected by the various lock downs.


----------



## ExDarkxH

straha20 said:


> Same in that I am in Illinois myself, and most non-customer facing businesses should really not be overly affected by the various lock downs.


we can just take them by their word then

according to them, they were only waiting on nickle plating.
Then ppl replied by saying they dont care about the nickel just give us the bare copper.....
So the rep replied... "ok, just send an email out to X and we will ship out right away"

BUT THEY IGNORED THE EMAILS AND DIDNT SHIP ANYTHING lol

the problem is that their word is actually worthless and have been caught in many lies already. So the reality is nobody knows whats really going on


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
**** happens.
20 series was pretty ugly too.


----------



## asdf893

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> **** happens.
> 20 series was pretty ugly too.


This has nothing to do with 20 series?


----------



## originxt

I think regardless of your stance on the current gpu block issue, most of us would agree that communication and transparency is key from any business. Good or bad news, I think Optimus should post an update to any of the websites they have a presence in (Twitter, OCN, TPU, etc), or at least an email to ease those who may want to know what's going on.



LiquidHaus said:


> As for the Kryonaut - I am honestly pretty saddened by everyone's bad experiences with the paste. It's shocking to me. I have used it for years! Not once have I experienced anything bad with the paste. So at this point based on this small thread control group alone, I guess I'll say I simply got repeatedly lucky.


I haven't had any real issue using kryonaut personally either. I picked up the extreme version a month or so ago and its been fine. No real difference between the normal one honestly but maybe I'm not the intended use case (just watercooling.)


----------



## ThrashZone

asdf893 said:


> This has nothing to do with 20 series?


Hi,
It's deja vu man history repeats it's self.


----------



## Shawnb99

20 series that’s still not out yet


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
lol the series that never showed up


----------



## originxt

Has the 20 series been abandoned or just put off for the 30 series?


----------



## Shawnb99

Just put off but for Optimus that’s likely means months and months away


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Just like the money pit contractors say when asked when you'll be done they say two weeks two weeks lol


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Just like the money pit contractors say when asked when you'll be done they say two weeks two weeks lol


I like that one. But this year has been pretty bad for delivery times i will say. Also really lot of delays too. I am in middle of upgrading the Crestron based home automation system in the house so it works with the new Lutron Upgrade. The local Crestron installer said it would be December when he could do the install but I just got off the phone with him and said Crestron may not ship till early next year. So it's another 2-3months before the guy will do the upgrade. I would get pretty mad if not for case it's not urgent and there's no need to have contactors in the house doing stuff in the height of the pandemic.


----------



## HyperC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Someone else does optimus nickel plating.


Cool story but they don't have to follow the same guidelines just looked it up at least in Illinois just saying. Not being rude in anyway just posting facts


----------



## ThrashZone

HyperC said:


> Cool story but they don't have to follow the same guidelines just looked it up at least in Illinois just saying. Not being rude in anyway just posting facts


HI,
Sure they don't have to but fun fact is they don't and so they send brass and copper parts out to be nickel plated 
At one time they said they would be doing nickel plating in house but that never happened either.


----------



## HyperC

ThrashZone said:


> HI,
> Sure they don't have to but fun fact is they don't and so they send brass and copper parts out to be nickel plated
> At one time they said they would be doing nickel plating in house but that never happened either.


I am quite sure they have plenty of orders that need to be fulfilled so they wouldn't be sending them out 1 by 1... I don't think they any stock anywhere so unless they truly don't care about there rep as a company they shouldn't be accepting orders covid or not they never list stock quantity so every order is rolling the dices


----------



## ThrashZone

HyperC said:


> I am quite sure they have plenty of orders that need to be fulfilled so they wouldn't be sending them out 1 by 1... I don't think they any stock anywhere so unless they truly don't care about there rep as a company they shouldn't be accepting orders covid or not they never list stock quantity so every order is rolling the dices


Hi,
Who said they were sending out one block at a time besides you just now lol


----------



## HyperC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Who said they were sending out one block at a time besides you just now lol


OOPS my bad , I read what you typed wrong my kids and ADHD didn't help it, but yeah either way have a nice day


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah and that's a well established company that is taking preorders too lol
> 
> Optimus about one year ago popped up on this forum and frankly this year was/ is the worst ever that could happen for a 12 month old startup.
> Doubt 2021 will be any better sadly with sleepy Joe lol


Nah, in 2021 we'll all be forced to take a vaccine so we can all party and go to sports matches again. The economy will roar like it's never roared before. Haven't you heard?


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> Nah, in 2021 we'll all be forced to take a vaccine so we can all party and go to sports matches again. The economy will roar like it's never roared before. Haven't you heard?


Hi,
Not sure how that happens they trust nobody that says it's safe so far even the current testers that were 95% effective lol
They think those are fishy numbers that need to be retested again and again so it takes 2-3 years for real test results 
Not sure it matters vac or not we'll still be wearing masks/ locked down... because all that power must not be wasted.


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Not sure how that happens they trust nobody that says it's safe so far even the current testers that were 95% effective lol
> They think those are fishy numbers that need to be retested again and again so it takes 2-3 years for real test results
> Not sure it matters vac or not we'll still be wearing masks/ locked down... because all that power must not be wasted.


I hope all this mask stuff ends soon. People are either fanatically for it or against it, yet another thing to divide people with. When really the people for it are seriously overstating its effectiveness, and people against it are underestimating its effectiveness (the truth is that it's just one more tool to combat the spread of a virus, but it's effecfiveness is not that high, pretty low actually, but it does help at least a little).

I don't want my 1yr old grow up in a masked world. Terrible for a child's development, as they need to learn how to read facial expressions and such. And with everyone wearing a mask, that's impossible.

And otherwise, I don't trust this vaccine either. No way it has received enough testing yet. Most vaccines go through years of testing to study long term effects. With those covid vaccines being rushed out the door, there's a chance too many shortcuts have been taken with potentially terrible outcomes in the long run. It's happened before with vaccines rushed to market, it can happen again. Otherwise not against vaccines otherwise, as long as they've gone through proper testing.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> I hope all this mask stuff ends soon. People are either fanatically for it or against it, yet another thing to divide people with. When really the people for it are seriously overstating its effectiveness, and people against it are underestimating its effectiveness (the truth is that it's just one more tool to combat the spread of a virus, but it's effecfiveness is not that high, pretty low actually, but it does help at least a little).
> 
> I don't want my 1yr old grow up in a masked world. Terrible for a child's development, as they need to learn how to read facial expressions and such. And with everyone wearing a mask, that's impossible.
> 
> And otherwise, I don't trust this vaccine either. No way it has received enough testing yet. Most vaccines go through years of testing to study long term effects. With those covid vaccines being rushed out the door, there's a chance too many shortcuts have been taken with potentially terrible outcomes in the long run. It's happened before with vaccines rushed to market, it can happen again. Otherwise not against vaccines otherwise, as long as they've gone through proper testing.


Hi,
I'm for crowded indoor spaces but outside with very few to no people around is just stupid if it's that bad we'd already be dead lol


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I'm for crowded indoor spaces but outside with very few to no people around is just stupid if it's that bad we'd already be dead lol


Completely agree. Outdoors it's practically impossible to catch a virus. Even passing someone on a sidewalk is practically 0 risk. And this has all been well researched.

Time of exposure, dosage (or viral load), and volume of air of the space you're in are the key ingredients in determining exposure risk.


----------



## JustinThyme

While I hate to say it I don't think this company is going to make it. Just the CS and not shipping things with repeated excuses. I got the one block, a replacement cold plate and a springless mounting kit. About two months from first to last. The block actually got here pretty quick. I know they said at one point they went to making parts for ventilators but the others did not and will soak up the market. I like more competition, keeps the innovation and race to the best going. Like EK with the magnitude came out after the Optimus claimed top spot. Then techpowerup puts u a BS review on a weak CPU using averages and deemed EK top spot by 0.10C LMAO. They are both good blocks but the magnitude is quite expensive. Glad I didn't have to pay for mine.


----------



## originxt

JustinThyme said:


> While I hate to say it I don't think this company is going to make it. Just the CS and not shipping things with repeated excuses. I got the one block, a replacement cold plate and a springless mounting kit. About two months from first to last. The block actually got here pretty quick. I know they said at one point they went to making parts for ventilators but the others did not and will soak up the market. I like more competition, keeps the innovation and race to the best going. Like EK with the magnitude came out after the Optimus claimed top spot. Then techpowerup puts u a BS review on a weak CPU using averages and deemed EK top spot by 0.10C LMAO. They are both good blocks but the magnitude is quite expensive. Glad I didn't have to pay for mine.


Hopefully not. They have good product, and the benchmarking shows. They clearly have a following since their store frequently stocked out before all this happened.


----------



## le-coq

Section31 said:


> Yup, its bad because the reference card situation is ugly. It was not issue because founders were lot more available and were reference so waterblocks were available much faster as result. Reference cards took 1-2months to come out. Usually i would just buy reference as AIB oc are generally not needed but the situation made it the expensive AIB models are maybe the easiest to get. In the past, FTW3 had the worst support among waterblocks.
> 
> If you look at even the Strix, EKWB only has an block. Aquacomputer Strix block is also 60day wait time, so that wait is just as bad. I waited like 2months for most of my aquacomputer orders this year.


I guess I'm OK with waiting - my pre-order for a Strix card was a month ago, and I think I'll get the card in two to three months.


----------



## oreonutz

I understand the wait is frustrating, but right now there is not even another option. I don't see the point in constantly complaining about it. I definitely understand speaking your peace, but after a dozen or more posts of the same exact complaints I am not sure what can be gained. At this point you probably should just request a refund if you can't wait any longer, I am sure there are more than a few people who would love to take your spot in the block queue so I doubt it will be an issue.

Don't get me wrong, I do feel that the complaints are valid, communication is something that can definitely be improved, and I definitely am just as antsy as you guys to get the block I paid for, but I know for a fact that this company is good for it, so outside of just asking for a response from the company, I don't see what is to be gained by this constant back and forth between the people complaining and the people defending. It kind of just is what it is. I could understand if maybe you truly believed that this company is just trying to scam people out of money, and then maybe you are just trying to warn people (Although I am 110% certain that is not what is going on here), but if that were the case this specific forum is definitely not the best place to warn other people as we are already familiar with Optimus and the time they take to deliver us the highest quality block they are capable of. So the constant drumbeat of complaints here specifically aren't reaching anybody outside of the people already familiar with the situation. So other than making your displeasure known by the people at the company (Whom by this point is definitely 100 Percent aware) I don't see what is to be gained by the constant back and forth.

@Optimus_WC We definitely would all love an update when you have the time. But for everyone else, understand they are busy working on their products and they are prioritizing getting the orders out to market, and so this takes the majority of their time currently. When they are ready, they will definitely be responding and informing us, and if you definitely can't wait any longer than you always have the option of requesting a refund and giving your eventual spot on the queue to another user who understands its going to be a wait. From my understanding we are in the home stretch now, but as we all know, things can change. For my part, as soon as another company has another block I am going to purchase it just so I have a way to keep my card cool until my block shows up, but the cold hard truth is there is not another FTW3 3080/3090 block available at the moment, so its a waiting game regardless for us unless we have a different model card.

Anyways, my 2 cents. I definitely do not want to dismiss the people unhappy, because I definitely understand the frustration, and definitely share in the eagerness for this Quality Block, and the desire to get it as soon as possible, especially considering the initial eta has already passed. But I am pretty sure we are all aware that they fully intend on shipping the block as soon as it is ready, and if you truly do not believe that, or think that there is some nefarious motivation at play here then its definitely within your right to request a refund and move on, I don't think much more is to be gained by dumping even more anger into the empty void that has become this thread. 

I know I just can't wait for its delivery, and for us to start sharing performance numbers on this block, my AMD Foundation block needs a partner...


----------



## RichKnecht

JustinThyme said:


> While I hate to say it I don't think this company is going to make it. Just the CS and not shipping things with repeated excuses. I got the one block, a replacement cold plate and a springless mounting kit. About two months from first to last. The block actually got here pretty quick. I know they said at one point they went to making parts for ventilators but the others did not and will soak up the market. I like more competition, keeps the innovation and race to the best going. Like EK with the magnitude came out after the Optimus claimed top spot. Then techpowerup puts u a BS review on a weak CPU using averages and deemed EK top spot by 0.10C LMAO. They are both good blocks but the magnitude is quite expensive. Glad I didn't have to pay for mine.


Well, I hope they do make it because they make a product that works. I did think about the EK block, but Thrash guided me to a few available V2s and I bought one. Other than the fact that I was probably expecting too much, it did lower my max temps by ~3 degrees. I was expecting at least a 5C drop as when I compared the cold plate to my EVO Supremacy, it was massive.

All that aside, if anything kills the company it will be customer service or lack thereof. I am really surprised that they haven't posted here with all this going on, just to say "hang on guys, we are doing our best to get these blocks out to you". They really need to read through the last few pages and respond with something. Even if it's just to let everyone see that they are still around would help quite a bit.


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> I understand the wait is frustrating, but right now there is not even another option. I don't see the point in constantly complaining about it. I definitely understand speaking your peace, but after a dozen or more posts of the same exact complaints I am not sure what can be gained. At this point you probably should just request a refund if you can't wait any longer, I am sure there are more than a few people who would love to take your spot in the block queue so I doubt it will be an issue.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I do feel that the complaints are valid, communication is something that can definitely be improved, and I definitely am just as antsy as you guys to get the block I paid for, but I know for a fact that this company is good for it, so outside of just asking for a response from the company, I don't see what is to be gained by this constant back and forth between the people complaining and the people defending. It kind of just is what it is. I could understand if maybe you truly believed that this company is just trying to scam people out of money, and then maybe you are just trying to warn people (Although I am 110% certain that is not what is going on here), but if that were the case this specific forum is definitely not the best place to warn other people as we are already familiar with Optimus and the time they take to deliver us the highest quality block they are capable of. So the constant drumbeat of complaints here specifically aren't reaching anybody outside of the people already familiar with the situation. So other than making your displeasure known by the people at the company (Whom by this point is definitely 100 Percent aware) I don't see what is to be gained by the constant back and forth.
> 
> @Optimus_WC We definitely would all love an update when you have the time. But for everyone else, understand they are busy working on their products and they are prioritizing getting the orders out to market, and so this takes the majority of their time currently. When they are ready, they will definitely be responding and informing us, and if you definitely can't wait any longer than you always have the option of requesting a refund and giving your eventual spot on the queue to another user who understands its going to be a wait. From my understanding we are in the home stretch now, but as we all know, things can change. For my part, as soon as another company has another block I am going to purchase it just so I have a way to keep my card cool until my block shows up, but the cold hard truth is there is not another FTW3 3080/3090 block available at the moment, so its a waiting game regardless for us unless we have a different model card.
> 
> Anyways, my 2 cents. I definitely do not want to dismiss the people unhappy, because I definitely understand the frustration, and definitely share in the eagerness for this Quality Block, and the desire to get it as soon as possible, especially considering the initial eta has already passed. But I am pretty sure we are all aware that they fully intend on shipping the block as soon as it is ready, and if you truly do not believe that, or think that there is some nefarious motivation at play here then its definitely within your right to request a refund and move on, I don't think much more is to be gained by dumping even more anger into the empty void that has become this thread.
> 
> I know I just can't wait for its delivery, and for us to start sharing performance numbers on this block, my AMD Foundation block needs a partner...


Patiently waiting too just to order lol. I looked at ekwb as temp solutions too but throwing more money for no good reason. 

I will say this, i never intended to buy an 3090 but with 6900xt/3080ti likely taking couple months to be available (no pre-order) meant that paying that whatever extra is probably not worth the time lost.


----------



## Shawnb99

Via Twitter a few minutes ago
“GPU Update: Shipping starts later next week! We're now just waiting on anodizing, covid has made everything take way longer and the team really apologizes for the delay, it kills us we haven't been able to get the blocks out sooner but we appreciate you hanging in there!!”


----------



## asdf893

How merciful of Optimus, days after we were expecting them to ship, to allow us to seek out some tweet of another 1+ week delay until they "start to ship".


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Nah, in 2021 we'll all be forced to take a vaccine so we can all party and go to sports matches again. The economy will roar like it's never roared before. Haven't you heard?


Lol. It will take some time for the economy to recover. Vaccine will help for sure in bringing things back to norm. However, how much of what conveniences we are used to will go the dinosaur. Movie Theatre, Malls may die off for good. How many workplaces will go to work for home for good.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> eek! We're now just waiting on anodizing, covid has made everything take way longer and the team really apologizes for the delay, it kills us we haven't been able to get the blocks out sooner but we appreciate you hanging i


Thanks. Hopefully the third order comes out soon. Patently waiting to put the GPU under water.


----------



## sakete

asdf893 said:


> How merciful of Optimus, days after we were expecting them to ship, to allow us to seek out some tweet of another 1+ week delay until they "start to ship".


Yeah man. Well, I'm not defending them, but at this point we all know what to expect from them. All we can do is be patient and resign ourselves to the situation. It'll come eventually, maybe it'll take another month or two.


----------



## keeph8n

So initial impressions with the Optimus TR4 block. I like the look and I like the feel. I hate the phillips head screws. Wish they were allen or torx. One is starting to strip already. The block was supposed to have setups for standard IHS and Lapped IHS. I don't see how the acrylic part is supposed to matter for that, as I would assume the bottom cold plate makes more of a difference, but hey we shall see. 3990X shows up on Monday to see how it performs.


----------



## Keith Myers

Earlier in the year Optimus provided early TR4 block owners an upgraded mounting system and an optimized fit. It involved changing out the acrylic block which provides the better IHS conformance.
The coldplate stayed the same. I noticed a few degrees better cooling with the new acrylic insert.


----------



## JustinThyme

originxt said:


> Hopefully not. They have good product, and the benchmarking shows. They clearly have a following since their store frequently stocked out before all this happened.


When you make a dozen blocks a week its not hard to be out of stock. As of my last few checks they have precisely nothing in stock. The few CPU blocks they had some of buut they too would sell out fast. First CPU block took more than 6 months for the very first one to ship. I think they have good products as well but if you aren't making them and moving them there is no way to stay afloat. I know even ordering directly from Heat Killer is a PITA.I contacted them once on a late order and they schooled me on how they were not distribution center and the words on the website are a poor translation. Available doesnt mean they have them, it means there is a production run for that part scheduled and your order is added to that qty in the run. If you just missed a run you are going to be waiting a month or two.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Via Twitter a few minutes ago
> “GPU Update: Shipping starts later next week! We're now just waiting on anodizing, covid has made everything take way longer and the team really apologizes for the delay, it kills us we haven't been able to get the blocks out sooner but we appreciate you hanging in there!!”


They use that one a lot, anodizing or plating.


----------



## ThrashZone

keeph8n said:


> So initial impressions with the Optimus TR4 block. I like the look and I like the feel. I hate the phillips head screws. Wish they were allen or torx. One is starting to strip already. The block was supposed to have setups for standard IHS and Lapped IHS. I don't see how the acrylic part is supposed to matter for that, as I would assume the bottom cold plate makes more of a difference, but hey we shall see. 3990X shows up on Monday to see how it performs.


Hi,
If you take the cold plate off you'd notice it is flat
The acrylic causes the amount of bow so different thickness basically causes more or less bow.
EK blocks use different thickness shims too for a long time.


----------



## jomama22

So to throw my hat in the ring. Ordered Nov 5th for an am4 nickel/black foundation, just arrived today.

Looks good, most outer fin on both sides is bent but nothing I would seem to unpack performance.

I do have one question: has anybody rotated the block 180*s so the outlet is toward the pcie slots and the inlet by the top vrms?

Reason I ask is because I'm curious as to the water flow from the jet plane wanting to naturally head towards the outlet, thus providing higher flow over the core chillers themselves. Just wondering if that would provide any difference is cooling ability for the cores.

Also should note, my motherboard sits horizontally, not vertically, so gravity wouldn't pull the water down towards the inlet side on the fins if oriented in the normal orientation.


----------



## Avacado

jomama22 said:


> So to throw my hat in the ring. Ordered Nov 5th for an am4 nickel/black foundation, just arrived today.
> 
> Looks good, most outer fin on both sides is bent but nothing I would seem to unpack performance.
> 
> I do have one question: has anybody rotated the block 180*s so the outlet is toward the pcie slots and the inlet by the top vrms?
> 
> Reason I ask is because I'm curious as to the water flow from the jet plane wanting to naturally head towards the outlet, thus providing higher flow over the core chillers themselves. Just wondering if that would provide any difference is cooling ability for the cores.
> 
> Also should note, my motherboard sits horizontally, not vertically, so gravity wouldn't pull the water down towards the inlet side on the fins if oriented in the normal orientation.


I run the foundation goofy, no issues, though my inlet is near the GPU.


----------



## originxt

Well, my aquacomputer flow next came in from germany after a 5ish week wait, distroplate came in from Australia 2 weeks ago, and I finally have a 3090 ftw3 that seems to interact well with the higher PL bios's available. Now I just need a gpu block from anywhere please.


----------



## sakete

originxt said:


> Well, my aquacomputer flow next came in from germany after a 5ish week wait, distroplate came in from Australia 2 weeks ago, and I finally have a 3090 ftw3 that seems to interact well with the higher PL bios's available. Now I just need a gpu block from anywhere please.


Well, all the good manufacturers, such as Watercool, Aquacomputer and Optimus are all delayed. So it's a waiting game at this point.


----------



## originxt

sakete said:


> Well, all the good manufacturers, such as Watercool, Aquacomputer and Optimus are all delayed. So it's a waiting game at this point.


Oh no doubt. I can't even imagine the pressure all the companies are getting for not releasing product despite the obvious reasons for delay. I think even EK put out a statement recently too.

Side note, according to next, my coolant is apparently in garbage quality even though I only changed it a month ago. Confirmed with a tds pen and its definitely high at 200~. I wonder if I should do a flush with distilled. Unsure why its even so dirty tbh. I did a run with Blitz 2 and did a clean out with distilled once.


----------



## whaleboy_4096

jomama22 said:


> So to throw my hat in the ring. Ordered Nov 5th for an am4 nickel/black foundation, just arrived today.


I ordered the same on Nov 2nd, but have not heard a peep yet. It was in the same order as the FTW block, so maybe they are waiting and will ship together?


----------



## keeph8n

Keith Myers said:


> Earlier in the year Optimus provided early TR4 block owners an upgraded mounting system and an optimized fit. It involved changing out the acrylic block which provides the better IHS conformance.
> The coldplate stayed the same. I noticed a few degrees better cooling with the new acrylic insert.


Is the new mounting system the studs with the fat section like shown on the website or the double threaded studs


----------



## Keith Myers

The new studs are the ones with the collars. The original ones were just the plain double threaded studs.


----------



## keeph8n

Keith Myers said:


> The new studs are the ones with the collars. The original ones were just the plain double threaded studs.


Thanks! I'll try those first


----------



## jomama22

Anyone have experience using liquid metal and an optimus foundation with an AMD 39xx or 59xx?

Curious as to your results comparted to paste of just your current experience with it.

I have both a techN and foundation block and am trying to decide which to use.

Thanks!


----------



## LiquidHaus

I actually have plans to run some tests between the TechN, Optimus, Heatkiller, EK, and XSPC blocks. Pending on whenever the other blocks get to me. Which is hopefully this month.


----------



## WayWayUp

I use the foundation on my 10900k
sp63
Direct die + liquid metal
420mm rad for cpu only loop

in cinebench i max out at 59c on the hottest core at 5.3Ghz all core
Their blocks are really good but everything else about the company sucks


----------



## ThrashZone

WayWayUp said:


> I use the foundation on my 10900k
> sp63
> Direct die + liquid metal
> 420mm rad for cpu only loop
> 
> in cinebench i max out at 59c on the hottest core at 5.3Ghz all core
> Their blocks are really good but everything else about the company sucks


Hi,
One more good thing is their in the USA so I'll cut them a lot of slack 
No big deal if nothing is in stock it's their loss no need to be butthurt just go somewhere else and give them the $$$ ezpz.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> One more good thing is their in the USA so I'll cut them a lot of slack
> No big deal if nothing is in stock it's their loss no need to be butthurt just go somewhere else and give them the $$$ ezpz.


Issue is most charge upon ordering. I prefer amazon/bestbuy and memexpress retail method. Don’t charge till shipping and in retail put your name down on wait list.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Issue is most charge upon ordering. I prefer amazon/bestbuy and memexpress retail method. Don’t charge till shipping and in retail put your name down on wait list.


Hi,
I'm done with earlybird shopping I can wait for not only gpu's but also water blocks to be instock


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I'm done with earlybird shopping I can wait for not only gpu's but also water blocks to be instock


Same boat as you here. Block and heatkiller rads


----------



## originxt

Section31 said:


> Same boat as you here. Block and heatkiller rads


Are we expecting a big jump in performance or quality between HK rads vs HWlabs or mostly because its new?


----------



## evilbob2200

originxt said:


> Are we expecting a big jump in performance or quality between HK rads vs HWlabs or mostly because its new?


prob a little of both im gonna be running koolance rads tho since ill be running noctua Nf-a12x25 and theyre quiet as hell even at full speed.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Let's just gaze upon the beauty.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Let's just gaze upon the beauty.


Holy


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> Are we expecting a big jump in performance or quality between HK rads vs HWlabs or mostly because its new?


I don't expect any performance jump to be honest, just want new radiator lol. I sold off all my excess radiators and am in need of one at this point. One GTR360mm internally won't be enough for my setup.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I'm done with earlybird shopping I can wait for not only gpu's but also water blocks to be instock


Your easier because your own person. In my case, I am doing group order with my local friends including ShawnB99 (same region). It's best way for us to save on the shipping part, if the US border opens up, I have people who can bring stuff up from the states for me.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Your easier because your own person. In my case, I am doing group order with my local friends including ShawnB99 (same region). It's best way for us to save on the shipping part, if the US border opens up, I have people who can bring stuff up from the states for me.


Hi,
Yep shipping sux
I like seeing discounts on price rather than paying top dollar for items that loose value directly after you buy them lol
It's amazing what prices do 6-8 months after release I like that trend tired of wasting money basically and really happy I skipped 20 series


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> I am doing group order with my local friends including ShawnB99 (same region). It's best way for us to save on the shipping part, if the US border opens up, I have people who can bring stuff up from the states for me.



Hey bro, can I get in on the group order for Heatkiller rads as well? I'm in for dual 360's


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Hey bro, can I get in on the group order for Heatkiller rads as well? I'm in for dual 360's


You would have to pay up front though you understand once i get the costs in canadian dollars on the credit card statement (i add 12% sales tax on top of your portion)


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> You would have to pay up front though you understand once i get the costs in canadian dollars on the credit card statement (i add 12% sales tax on top of your portion)


That's the only way to do business with group orders 

I'll keep an eye out for when they're announced and follow up with you. Pls don't order without me, haha.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> That's the only way to do business with group orders
> 
> I'll keep an eye out for when they're announced and follow up with you. Pls don't order without me, haha.


Thank you for the understanding. The order is going to be quite expensive regardless so can't afford to cover that huge expense lol.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Thank you for the understanding. The order is going to be quite expensive regardless so can't afford to cover that huge expense lol.


Hi,
Vacation time to Germany


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Vacation time to Germany


I went there before and its nice place to use as base for roadtrip around part of Europe. I want to go on the autobahn and drive at those insane speeds. Last time, it was with family and renting an Audi A4 and the experience going at 230km/h was interesting to say the least.


----------



## straha20

So has Optimus said anything new over the tweeters or that book thingy?


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> I went there before and its nice place to use as base for roadtrip around part of Europe. I want to go on the autobahn and drive at those insane speeds. Last time, it was with family and renting an Audi A4 and the experience going at 230km/h was interesting to say the least.


I once did 180 km/h on the autobahn, and it's quite terrifying driving that speed in a minivan.


----------



## dwolvin

220kph in my 2nd gen RX-7 that I took over. It was never taken to Europe by Mazda and I had mostly debadged- only a single Mazda on the center back. Nobody knew what it was  . On the way from Rome to Naples (A2? Really nice new Autrostrada at the time) I had something come over the horizon behind me and flash to pass. I ignored it a few seconds and realized that it had already covered half the gap (I was doing about 210 kph- happy zone). I don't know how fast the Countach was doing, but when it went by in the fast lane my RX-7jumped and he was already nothing but tail lights. Good times.

So, on topic; also hoping for word on video blocks (esp. AMD).


----------



## sakete

dwolvin said:


> 220kph in my 2nd gen RX-7 that I took over. It was never taken to Europe by Mazda and I had mostly debadged- only a single Mazda on the center back. Nobody knew what it was  . On the way from Rome to Naples (A2? Really nice new Autrostrada at the time) I had something come over the horizon behind me and flash to pass. I ignored it a few seconds and realized that it had already covered half the gap (I was doing about 210 kph- happy zone). I don't know how fast the Countach was doing, but when it went by in the fast lane my RX-7jumped and he was already nothing but tail lights. Good times.
> 
> So, on topic; also hoping for word on video blocks (esp. AMD).


That's the thing with high-speed driving on the autobahn (and yes, also in Italy on the autostrada as nobody keeps to the speed limit), you see a car approaching in your mirror, far away, you blink, and now the car is right behind you. I literally experienced it like that. And then the Porsche blows past. Crazy.


----------



## acoustic

Has the first batch of GPU blocks been shipped yet? I missed the last few pages.


----------



## sakete

acoustic said:


> Has the first batch of GPU blocks been shipped yet? I missed the last few pages.


Don't think so. Last week they said end of this week. So maybe it'll ship in 2-3 weeks from now.


----------



## straha20

sakete said:


> Don't think so. Last week they said end of this week. So maybe it'll ship in 2-3 weeks from now.


They have everything lined up, and will be ready to ship right after Christmas!


----------



## sakete

straha20 said:


> They have everything lined up, and will be ready to ship right after Christmas!


No, after MLK day. Or is it President's day? Maybe Memorial Day!


----------



## WayWayUp

I really hope this company can save their reputation 
I want a Chicago based company to succeed 

Also not digging the shipping times. Being in the usa i was expecting my last shipment to arrive right away (I literally live down the street)
Instead it took like 4 days to arrive which is pretty terrible
When I order internationally from other companies and do the whole DHL thing i typically expect it to take that long

This is one of the advantages of being US based yet they dont take advantage of it


----------



## sakete

WayWayUp said:


> I really hope this company can save their reputation
> I want a Chicago based company to succeed
> 
> Also not digging the shipping times. Being in the usa i was expecting my last shipment to arrive right away (I literally live down the street)
> Instead it took like 4 days to arrive which is pretty terrible
> When I order internationally from other companies and do the whole DHL thing i typically expect it to take that long
> 
> This is one of the advantages of being US based yet they dont take advantage of it


Shipping time is probably more due to the carrier. They've shipped me stuff before and it arrived next day.


----------



## Section31

It's going to be an battle between who can come out with FTW3 Blocks first. Optimus announced first but hasn't shipped. EKWB says Mid-Dec so thats early 2021 with shipping. Heatkiller is late January 2021.


----------



## Recipe7

Section31 said:


> It's going to be an battle between who can come out with FTW3 Blocks first. Optimus announced first but hasn't shipped. EKWB says Mid-Dec so thats early 2021 with shipping. Heatkiller is late January 2021.


EKWB promised October, then November, then finally January 6th 2021.

Heatkiller had a public poll asking what GPU they should support, the poll concluded 3rd week of October, choosing the FTW3 as the gpu of choice. Looks like they will be shipping end of January 2021

Alphacool Eisblock will be shipping in January 2021

If Optimus starts shipping the blocks end of this week (heck, even end of the month), it will be the first blocks to the public for the FTW3. I somewhat regret canceling my order for the Optimus block from the first batch, but I may jump on it later down the line if/when the 3080 Ti FTW3 comes out.


----------



## Section31

Recipe7 said:


> EKWB promised October, then November, then finally January 6th 2021.
> 
> Heatkiller had a public poll asking what GPU they should support, the poll concluded 3rd week of October, choosing the FTW3 as the gpu of choice. Looks like they will be shipping end of January 2021
> 
> Alphacool Eisblock will be shipping in January 2021
> 
> If Optimus starts shipping the blocks end of this week (heck, even end of the month), it will be the first blocks to the public for the FTW3. I somewhat regret canceling my order for the Optimus block from the first batch, but I may jump on it later down the line if/when the 3080 Ti FTW3 comes out.


Forgot about eisblock but most of the people in optimus thread aren't the target audience for eisblock.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC What's the turn around for ordering another 6 pack of 14mm fittings? They show in stock on the site.

Just realized I'm going to be short 2-6 fittings, . Guess I could not WC my Aquero's but where's the fun in that.

Those extra fittings promised sure could come in handy now.....


----------



## sakete

Recipe7 said:


> EKWB promised October, then November, then finally January 6th 2021.
> 
> Heatkiller had a public poll asking what GPU they should support, the poll concluded 3rd week of October, choosing the FTW3 as the gpu of choice. Looks like they will be shipping end of January 2021
> 
> Alphacool Eisblock will be shipping in January 2021
> 
> If Optimus starts shipping the blocks end of this week (heck, even end of the month), it will be the first blocks to the public for the FTW3. I somewhat regret canceling my order for the Optimus block from the first batch, but I may jump on it later down the line if/when the 3080 Ti FTW3 comes out.


The nice thing about a 3080ti FTW3 is that any existing FTW3 block should fit it. It'll essentially be a 3090 with less ram. I also feel sorry for anyone who bought a 3090.

If I got tempted to step up to that (I probably won't), I wouldn't have to try to get a new waterblock.


----------



## Krisztias

The Optimus and Alphacool block's ar not the same quality of course. I have the 3080 FE, I bought and installed the Eisblock on it and I am happy with it.
I got water temp +8°C core temperature under full load with power maxed out. For 135 eur is good for me. I will sell both when the new generation arrives anyway.


----------



## WayWayUp

you think it will actually ship today or tmrw?
I am really disappointed I thought for sure I would have this in time for cyberpunk

since they said end of this week officially i am thinking more like it will ship on Monday


----------



## Hequaqua

If anyone might be interested....I will have my *Optimus Foundation Acrylic+Black Aluminum Raw Copper* block for sale shortly. Just waiting on my new parts to get here. It's for AM4, with both mounting hardware(original/backplate). I hate to part with it, but I sold the 3700x that was under it....


----------



## keeph8n

Well two boards and a mounting hardware change and I finally have a block that is mounted. I used their updated hardware first. No go on two different ASUS boards. Manhandled the board, bent it around trying to align it, and still no dice getting all four nuts started. 3/4 started without issue. Gave it one more try before swapping back to my trusty Heatkiller block. Had to use the old style hardware to get all four mounting nuts started. Did not get to try it with the 3990X on the bench system, but its on the daily 3970X system. Temps seem about the same as my previous Heatkiller block. Will report back in a few days.


----------



## Shawnb99

12 more fittings ordered. That should be more then enough..... I hope.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> 12 more fittings ordered. That should be more then enough..... I hope.


It's never enough man. I had ordered some Koolance QDCs. Received them and then realized, wait, I need some 45° and 90° fittings to make it work in some spots as those QDCs are huge.

I've done that many times now. Order fittings, and no matter how well I try to plan it, I need more fittings still. I've wasted so much money on shipping costs for just a few fittings. Ugh.

Once I get that FTW3 block, and redo the loop when I install all that, I should be set for a while (I hope).


----------



## Avacado

Shawnb99 said:


> 12 more fittings ordered. That should be more then enough..... I hope.


NEVAR! enough. Just picked up 200$ worth of BP rotaries. I think I'm set for life now.


----------



## Shawnb99

Avacado said:


> NEVAR! enough. Just picked up 200$ worth of BP rotaries. I think I'm set for life now.


I used to think Bitspower was expensive then Optimus came along. 42 fittings and $492 later... not to mention all the 90 degree ones I still need.


----------



## sakete

Avacado said:


> NEVAR! enough. Just picked up 200$ worth of BP rotaries. I think I'm set for life now.


I've probably spent at least $500 on fittings this year (and it was my first ever watercooled build). And 5 pairs of QDCs (male to female) was almost $200. All my watercooling parts combined, this year, is at least $1600 I'd guess (I'm including the cost of fans with that).

I really just need a better case than this Phanteks Enthoo 719. Just doesn't have the best airflow. But there aren't many options in the super tower case category. Maybe the Corsair 1000D is a good candidate. But not swapping out cases anytime soon either way. Would love it if Lian-Li made the ultimate watercooling case, true dual-chamber design with space for 6+ 480 rads (2 top, 2 front, 2 bottom in each chamber, maybe even side mount), and space for 10+ 3.5" HDDs and 10+ 2.5" SSDs (and well vented, as on the 011 Dynamic XL case, the 4 drive slots in the side chamber are terribly vented and get super hot). Kinda like the Thermaltake W200, but then better build quality.


----------



## RichKnecht

Shawnb99 said:


> I used to think Bitspower was expensive then Optimus came along. 42 fittings and $492 later... not to mention all the 90 degree ones I still need.


Holy ****. They are nice looking fittings though.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Avacado said:


> NEVAR! enough. Just picked up 200$ worth of BP rotaries. I think I'm set for life now.


HA!

If you only knew the power of the dark side...

I mean if you only knew how wrong you are about thinking you're done on buying fittings.


----------



## Shawnb99

Just wait till Optimus comes out with angled or extension fittings. Not sure why they don’t have extensions already, “should be” easy enough to make those. Could use some 30mm ones.


----------



## Avacado

LiquidHaus said:


> HA!
> 
> If you only knew the power of the dark side...
> 
> I mean if you only knew how wrong you are about thinking you're done on buying fittings.


That is in addition to the 1000$ of fittings I already have! I am getting ready to clean out my basement from rebuilding my folding rig, I'll have to take a pic of it. It makes me feel like we need Computers Anon.


----------



## CluckyTaco

I'm looking for guidance here. Since we know that some form of high range Ampere card 3080 ti/super is in the works soon, I'm wondering if I should get the FTW3 version or XC3 version of said card? Reason I'm asking is the only waterblock available for the XC3 ones are EK which I dislike to say the least. Now seeing that everybody's delayed with the FTW3 blocks to begin with should I be even thinking whether Optimus would be able to get an XC3 block out by March? I don't see myself benefitting the FTW3 for 1-2% gaming improvement over the XC3 but that decision would delay getting a block for my GPU. I know this is all hypothetical but I'm trying to plan ahead here.


----------



## Hawkjoss

CluckyTaco said:


> I'm looking for guidance here. Since we know that some form of high range Ampere card 3080 ti/super is in the works soon, I'm wondering if I should get the FTW3 version or XC3 version of said card? Reason I'm asking is the only waterblock available for the XC3 ones are EK which I dislike to say the least. Now seeing that everybody's delayed with the FTW3 blocks to begin with should I be even thinking whether Optimus would be able to get an XC3 block out by March? I don't see myself benefitting the FTW3 for 1-2% gaming improvement over the XC3 but that decision would delay getting a block for my GPU. I know this is all hypothetical but I'm trying to plan ahead here.


Word "planing" should not be used in 2020


----------



## Shawnb99

If putting it under water I’d go for the FTW just for it being 3x 8pin compared only 2x for the XC.


----------



## straha20

CluckyTaco said:


> I'm looking for guidance here. Since we know that some form of high range Ampere card 3080 ti/super is in the works soon, I'm wondering if I should get the FTW3 version or XC3 version of said card? Reason I'm asking is the only waterblock available for the XC3 ones are EK which I dislike to say the least. Now seeing that everybody's delayed with the FTW3 blocks to begin with should I be even thinking whether Optimus would be able to get an XC3 block out by March? I don't see myself benefitting the FTW3 for 1-2% gaming improvement over the XC3 but that decision would delay getting a block for my GPU. I know this is all hypothetical but I'm trying to plan ahead here.


At this point, there is absolutely no guarantee that a block for a currently released card will fit on the ti/super varients.


----------



## CluckyTaco

straha20 said:


> At this point, there is absolutely no guarantee that a block for a currently released card will fit on the ti/super varients.


Ohh well I'm going to sit in the corner and be patient then. Thanks for the pointer. I really thought I'd get the block before the card but now that you say it, it's just stupid on me.


----------



## Shawnb99

It’s confirmed the blocks with fit the Kingpin? May try and grab one next time they are up for sale.


----------



## straha20

CluckyTaco said:


> Ohh well I'm going to sit in the corner and be patient then. Thanks for the pointer. I really thought I'd get the block before the card but now that you say it, it's just stupid on me.


I think it is possible that the blocks could fit, but it is a safe assumption that the memory configurations will be different, so there will be additional memory on the pcb, which could lead to a possibly different power delivery layout with additional or moved vrm's and such. I mean, if these blocks were like 20 bucks, that'd be one thing, but sinking 400 plus all the wait time for something that may or may not work would be too big of a gamble for me.


----------



## sakete

straha20 said:


> I think it is possible that the blocks could fit, but it is a safe assumption that the memory configurations will be different, so there will be additional memory on the pcb, which could lead to a possibly different power delivery layout with additional or moved vrm's and such. I mean, if these blocks were like 20 bucks, that'd be one thing, but sinking 400 plus all the wait time for something that may or may not work would be too big of a gamble for me.


Well, FWIW, the current crop of FTW3 blocks fit both the 3080 and 3090. 3080ti is rumored to be a 3090 with 20gb ram instead of 24gb. Odds are it'll be the exact same board layout, with fewer ram chips.

I'd be tempted myself to get a 3080ti, to future proof myself a bit more for memory hungry stuff. But to be honest, with PS5 and new xbox just out, it'll take a couple years for next gen graphics to really start picking up steam, at which point Ampere will already be outdated. I'll most likely get the 4080/4080ti whenever those come out, and will skip 3080ti.

I am curious to see how well 3080 runs Cyberpunk. I'll know in a few hours, when it releases globally.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Shawnb99 said:


> It’s confirmed the blocks with fit the Kingpin? May try and grab one next time they are up for sale.


Where did you hear this? I have a ftw3 and am on the notification list for the kingpin. Should pop soon too. Was debating whether to keep my ftw3 and hope optimus ships my block this year or get the kingpin and sell the ftw3.


----------



## Shawnb99

Edge0fsanity said:


> Where did you hear this? I have a ftw3 and am on the notification list for the kingpin. Should pop soon too. Was debating whether to keep my ftw3 and hope optimus ships my block this year or get the kingpin and sell the ftw3.


Im asking if they fit. Sorry if unmade it seem they confirmed that already. I would assume so going from last year gen on the 2080ti’s.

How do you get on the notification list? If there’s already a list then I have no chance of getting one next drop.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Shawnb99 said:


> Im asking if they fit. Sorry if unmade it seem they confirmed that already. I would assume so going from last year gen on the 2080ti’s.
> 
> How do you get on the notification list? If there’s already a list then I have no chance of getting one next drop.


The launch date was announced on evga forums for elite members only. You had about 25 seconds from the time it went live until batch 1 notification slots were filled. My slot is about halfway down the list that we know of.


----------



## Shawnb99

Ah k, first batch notifications. Got ya. Next batch is out sometime next week it appears, hopefully I can get in on that one


----------



## straha20

sakete said:


> Well, FWIW, the current crop of FTW3 blocks fit both the 3080 and 3090. 3080ti is rumored to be a 3090 with 20gb ram instead of 24gb. Odds are it'll be the exact same board layout, with fewer ram chips.
> 
> I'd be tempted myself to get a 3080ti, to future proof myself a bit more for memory hungry stuff. But to be honest, with PS5 and new xbox just out, it'll take a couple years for next gen graphics to really start picking up steam, at which point Ampere will already be outdated. I'll most likely get the 4080/4080ti whenever those come out, and will skip 3080ti.
> 
> I am curious to see how well 3080 runs Cyberpunk. I'll know in a few hours, when it releases globally.


It would be either a 3090 with 12gb ram, or a 3080 with 20gb ram...different memory bus sizes and all that, and for sure, they could be exact same PCB's, but I do think there is a possibility that there could be changes that would affect the water block fit.


----------



## sakete

straha20 said:


> It would be either a 3090 with 12gb ram, or a 3080 with 20gb ram...different memory bus sizes and all that, and for sure, they could be exact same PCB's, but I do think there is a possibility that there could be changes that would affect the water block fit.


Right, what I meant was that the rumors are showing the chip will essentially be a 3090, going by number of cores, and that the RAM will be double that of the 3080 at the same memory bus size of the 3080.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
So what's the 3080ti just binned and 12gb's


----------



## KedarWolf

mongoled said:


> So what the story with this
> 
> thermagic zf-12 extreme
> 
> Is it as good as some say ???


It is just TFX rebranded but with a promo code on Aliexpress, Google their promo codes, you can get a 2-gram tube for under $6 USD with free shipping.

Just so you know I've had shipping from them to Canada take a month or longer, so if it's time-sensitive, don't bother.

Search Aliexpress for ZF-EX to find it.

I'm going to try it, I have a sure-fire method for thinly and evenly applying thick pastes that has never failed me.

Edit: You get a $4 off promo code for new users if you Google their promo codes and registering with a new email works if you're not a new user.









5.69US $ 30% OFF|ZF EX 14.6W/m k High Performance Compound Thermal Paste Conductive Grease Heatsink For CPU GPU Chipset notebook Cooling|Fans & Cooling| - AliExpress


Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com




www.aliexpress.com


----------



## sakete

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> So what's the 3080ti just binned and 12gb's


Probably a lower binned 3090, maybe slightly fewer cores. Difference between 3090 and 3080 doesn't even seem that huge, performance wise, unless you really need the memory. 3080ti to me seems like a waste. 3080 really seems to be the sweet spot this gen.

This will just be a way for nvidia to sell all the chips they produce, and slap a different label on it depending on the yield. Might increase overall availability of 3080+ products.


----------



## ThrashZone

sakete said:


> Probably a lower binned 3090, maybe slightly fewer cores. Difference between 3090 and 3080 doesn't even seem that huge, performance wise, unless you really need the memory. 3080ti to me seems like a waste. 3080 really seems to be the sweet spot this gen.
> 
> This will just be a way for nvidia to sell all the chips they produce, and slap a different label on it depending on the yield. Might increase overall availability of 3080+ products.


Hi,
I'd personally rather have a 12gb card.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I'd personally rather have a 12gb card.


The rumor is its 20GB not 12GB at 1000USD. Nvidia doesn't want to lose that crown though I think 12GB at 799-899USD will be better idea. That premium makes sense.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> The rumor is its 20GB not 12GB at 1000USD. Nvidia doesn't want to lose that crown though I think 12GB at 799-899USD will be better idea. That premium makes sense.


Hi,
Think 3090 performance with 12gb this would be cool at 1k.us


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Think 3090 performance with 12gb this would be cool at 1k.us


Rumor is your getting more than that 20gb. So upgrade


----------



## dwolvin

The memory specs are the only thing that bum me out about the 3080. Can't see going backwards when I can nearly fill the 12Gb on my 1080to now. I want a card I can put underwater and keep for at least a few years.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Well, FWIW, the current crop of FTW3 blocks fit both the 3080 and 3090. 3080ti is rumored to be a 3090 with 20gb ram instead of 24gb. Odds are it'll be the exact same board layout, with fewer ram chips.
> 
> I'd be tempted myself to get a 3080ti, to future proof myself a bit more for memory hungry stuff. But to be honest, with PS5 and new xbox just out, it'll take a couple years for next gen graphics to really start picking up steam, at which point Ampere will already be outdated. I'll most likely get the 4080/4080ti whenever those come out, and will skip 3080ti.
> 
> I am curious to see how well 3080 runs Cyberpunk. I'll know in a few hours, when it releases globally.


How did it run for you? It's not as bad as they said but still 3090 isn't much better than 3080 from benchmarks and my experience so far.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> How did it run for you? It's not as bad as they said but still 3090 isn't much better than 3080 from benchmarks and my experience so far.


So far running at 80 - 100 fps with pretty much everything maxed out, but motion blur, film grain, chromatic aberrations disabled. and DLSS is on Auto, so not even sure it's on. This on a 1440p monitor. Works fine for me.

Edit: OK, more like 40ish fps with DLSS off, and now mid 60s with DLSS on quality mode.


----------



## Eulerian

Removed


----------



## Keith Myers

Just reverse your picture of the dies upside down. That is the orientation of the dies when the motherboard is mounted vertically.

Generally accepted practice is to have the return side of the loop at the top of a vertically mounted part to assist exhaust of entrained air bubbles.

You think the O-ring on the AM4 block is hard to keep in place while re-assembling? . . . . . try wrangling the O-ring of the TR4 block back in place. Ha ha ha.


----------



## whaleboy_4096

Keith Myers said:


> Just reverse your picture of the dies upside down. That is the orientation of the dies when the motherboard is mounted vertically.
> 
> Generally accepted practice is to have the return side of the loop at the top of a vertically mounted part to assist exhaust of entrained air bubbles.


I have an AMD block on order for my first custom loop. Question... So my CPU is also mounted 180 to that reference drawing of the block. But if I mount the block 180 to match the CPU, then the return will be on the bottom (if I am understanding which is the return). So is that not important then? It just needs to align with teh CPU as pictured (if CPU is upside down, so should the block be)? 
Thanks


----------



## iunlock

sakete said:


> Well, FWIW, the current crop of FTW3 blocks fit both the 3080 and 3090. 3080ti is rumored to be a 3090 with 20gb ram instead of 24gb. Odds are it'll be the exact same board layout, with fewer ram chips.
> 
> I'd be tempted myself to get a 3080ti, to future proof myself a bit more for memory hungry stuff. But to be honest, with PS5 and new xbox just out, it'll take a couple years for next gen graphics to really start picking up steam, at which point Ampere will already be outdated. I'll most likely get the 4080/4080ti whenever those come out, and will skip 3080ti.
> 
> I am curious to see how well 3080 runs Cyberpunk. I'll know in a few hours, when it releases globally.


I'll be testing cyberpunk with my msi 3080 as well... So far it has been holding nicely at 2130MHz in game. (Peak 2160MHz, Stock blower) I'll be fine tuning it a bit more this weekend.

I also just did a thorough cleaning on the optimus foundation block. Good as new now...


----------



## sakete

iunlock said:


> I'll be testing cyberpunk with my msi 3080 as well... So far it has been holding nicely at 2130MHz in game. (Peak 2160MHz, Stock blower) I'll be fine tuning it a bit more this weekend.
> 
> I also just did a thorough cleaning on the optimus foundation block. Good as new now...


I still need to start tuning my 3080. I haven't yet found the motivation to start increasing clock speeds and then stability testing it. I might just wait until I get the waterblock.

Otherwise it's running at 60-70 fps on average, sometimes dips below 60 in heavy scenes. This is with ultra settings and DLSS on quality on 1440p. With DLSS off, it runs at about 40fps. Game still needs a lot of optimizing, but it runs OK on the best hardware.

I might also pick up a 5950x at some point to replace my 3900x (and be set for a few years, as the next gen after this would also require going to new mobo and ram), which should give another 10-15fps I'd guess.


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> I still need to start tuning my 3080. I haven't yet found the motivation to start increasing clock speeds and then stability testing it. I might just wait until I get the waterblock.
> 
> Otherwise it's running at 60-70 fps on average, sometimes dips below 60 in heavy scenes. This is with ultra settings and DLSS on quality on 1440p. With DLSS off, it runs at about 40fps. Game still needs a lot of optimizing, but it runs OK on the best hardware.
> 
> I might also pick up a 5950x at some point to replace my 3900x (and be set for a few years, as the next gen after this would also require going to new mobo and ram), which should give another 10-15fps I'd guess.


Yeah, right now I am running my FTW3 with the OC BIOS capped at 400w, with a small OC netting me an average of 2055Mhz on the Core and Only 2500.5 Mhz (So just over 20,000Gbps) on the Memory, simply because if I push any more power through it, I end up exceeding 75c on the both the Core and the Memory. With the Full 450W Power being pushed through the core and running my max stable OC, I start getting Memory Temperatures approaching 90c and Core Temps exceeding 87c, which is just too far for me. I am sure the card would be fine, but as someone who has run Watercooled cards (in one form or another - Used to Use AIO's on them before upgrading to full on Watercooling years back) I just am not comfortable seeing Temps that high on my cards. 

And running Ray Tracing on Ultra with CyberPunk seems to run my card just as hard as Benchmarking it does, normally with my 400w Power Limit I would see temps settle around 72c on both Memory and the core in other games, but in Cyber Punk, It settles in more around 76c on both. 

In short, I can't wait for these blocks to ship! So hoping for that news to come out sometime today that shipping as begun. Probably won't happen, but a man can dream! LOL!


----------



## straha20

oreonutz said:


> Yeah, right now I am running my FTW3 with the OC BIOS capped at 400w, with a small OC netting me an average of 2055Mhz on the Core and Only 2500.5 Mhz (So just over 20,000Gbps) on the Memory, simply because if I push any more power through it, I end up exceeding 75c on the both the Core and the Memory. With the Full 450W Power being pushed through the core and running my max stable OC, I start getting Memory Temperatures approaching 90c and Core Temps exceeding 87c, which is just too far for me. I am sure the card would be fine, but as someone who has run Watercooled cards (in one form or another - Used to Use AIO's on them before upgrading to full on Watercooling years back) I just am not comfortable seeing Temps that high on my cards.
> 
> And running Ray Tracing on Ultra with CyberPunk seems to run my card just as hard as Benchmarking it does, normally with my 400w Power Limit I would see temps settle around 72c on both Memory and the core in other games, but in Cyber Punk, It settles in more around 76c on both.
> 
> In short, I can't wait for these blocks to ship! So hoping for that news to come out sometime today that shipping as begun. Probably won't happen, but a man can dream! LOL!


I can't even start my build until I have the water block. I am custom making an acrylic motherboard tray with hard line tubing, so need the block to see where the ports are so I can figure out where I need to put my bulkheads.


----------



## WayWayUp

Are they shipping the blocks today?
will this company ever meet an eta that they set themselves?
I figured late next week was a flat out lie. probably ship on Tuesday or something 

Nevertheless I will be checking email today for shipping confirmation


----------



## oreonutz

WayWayUp said:


> Are they shipping the blocks today?
> will this company ever meet an eta that they set themselves?
> I figured late next week was a flat out lie. probably ship on Tuesday or something
> 
> Nevertheless I will be checking email today for shipping confirmation


I don't know honestly. Its probably just wishful thinking on my part. Last update we had was on Twitter on the 3rd of December I believe, and they said they would be shipping late Next week, and with Today being Friday, was hoping that meant today. But they also said they were just waiting for the Annodizing to take place on the blocks, so that shipping time was likely just an estimate. We could get lucky and they just got the blocks back earlier in the week to Q/C and ship them, or, probably the more likely scenario, they are still waiting on their contractor to return the blocks, and then we have to wait for Q/C and then they start shipping. Would love it to be today that they ship, but also, I definitely want them to make sure their were no mess ups on the blocks when they were in their contractor's hands, so I can understand them taking a few days to Q/C and make sure all of our blocks are up to par, I just can't wait for these things to actually ship. As long as nothing unexpected happens, it seems we will be the first FTW3 Owners with blocks, as all their competition is still yet to come to market with theirs, it just sucks because we know our brothers with FE & Strix cards already have their blocks (Ours will just be better!).


----------



## Keith Myers

whaleboy_4096 said:


> I have an AMD block on order for my first custom loop. Question... So my CPU is also mounted 180 to that reference drawing of the block. But if I mount the block 180 to match the CPU, then the return will be on the bottom (if I am understanding which is the return). So is that not important then? It just needs to align with teh CPU as pictured (if CPU is upside down, so should the block be)?
> Thanks


The AM4 mounting bracket has symmetric hole alignment so you can mount it however you want. Does not make that much a difference whether the input is on the bottom with output above or vice versa.
Same can't be said about the TR4 mounting bracket with asymmetric hole spacing. When you want to change orientation on that block it requires disassembly and the coldplate-acrylic insert sandwich has to be flipped in the bracket.

If you care about the Optimus logo being upside down, you will need to flip the coldplate-acyrlic insert sandwich in the mounting bracket.


----------



## asdf893

WayWayUp said:


> Are they shipping the blocks today?
> will this company ever meet an eta that they set themselves?
> I figured late next week was a flat out lie. probably ship on Tuesday or something
> 
> Nevertheless I will be checking email today for shipping confirmation


Literally nobody knows. What other explanation is there for lack of communication and constant delays? Oh wait, they could just be lying. At this point it's sad. Somewhere online they said they'd send out emails to customers to check whether they wanted copper or nickel before shipping out; not sure how that fits in their their nickel-first then copper-first flip flop.


----------



## WayWayUp

yeah it's easy to just blame it on other companies and thats EXACTLY what they did

"It's not our fault, we are not allowed to anodize in house so we are just waiting on them!"

Customers: oh okay so if that's the only reason for delay let me just have copper then.....
Optimus: sure no problem.......

many weeks later, they just ignore and pretend they never said that.

Dec 3: "Shipping starts next week, just waiting for anodizing!"

when will they stop lying? I'm will approach them for a refund. After 4 days when they finally respond to email i will tell them i already had bank reverse charges
This company needs to go bankrupt they are not going to make it. Delays are Delays but you:

1) dont understand how to set a real target. Telling your customers every few days that it will ship in a few more is a carrot on a stick and trash business tactic. It would be much better to set a realistic target that you know you can actually meet

2) Take responsibility! You blame it on another company for outsourcing a part of the progress but when customers said they dont care they will take it as is...............flat out you were caught

3) constantly lie to customers

This goes beyond being late. The way they conduct business is garbage.


----------



## Shawnb99

WayWayUp said:


> yeah it's easy to just blame it on other companies and thats EXACTLY what they did
> 
> "It's not our fault, we are not allowed to anodize in house so we are just waiting on them!"
> 
> Customers: oh okay so if that's the only reason for delay let me just have copper then.....
> Optimus: sure no problem.......
> 
> many weeks later, they just ignore and pretend they never said that.
> 
> Dec 3: "Shipping starts next week, just waiting for anodizing!"
> 
> when will they stop lying? I'm will approach them for a refund. After 4 days when they finally respond to email i will tell them i already had bank reverse charges
> This company needs to go bankrupt they are not going to make it. Delays are Delays but you:
> 
> 1) dont understand how to set a real target. Telling your customers every few days that it will ship in a few more is a carrot on a stick and trash business tactic. It would be much better to set a realistic target that you know you can actually meet
> 
> 2) Take responsibility! You blame it on another company for outsourcing a part of the progress but when customers said they dont care they will take it as is...............flat out you were caught
> 
> 3) constantly lie to customers
> 
> This goes beyond being late. The way they conduct business is garbage.


I’ll take your preorder. That way you can quit your bitching and put on your big boy pants.
After this rant if I was them I’d just cancel your order completely. Children shouldn’t be allowed to preorder


----------



## originxt

WayWayUp said:


> yeah it's easy to just blame it on other companies and thats EXACTLY what they did
> 
> "It's not our fault, we are not allowed to anodize in house so we are just waiting on them!"
> 
> Customers: oh okay so if that's the only reason for delay let me just have copper then.....
> Optimus: sure no problem.......
> 
> many weeks later, they just ignore and pretend they never said that.
> 
> Dec 3: "Shipping starts next week, just waiting for anodizing!"
> 
> when will they stop lying? I'm will approach them for a refund. After 4 days when they finally respond to email i will tell them i already had bank reverse charges
> This company needs to go bankrupt they are not going to make it. Delays are Delays but you:
> 
> 1) dont understand how to set a real target. Telling your customers every few days that it will ship in a few more is a carrot on a stick and trash business tactic. It would be much better to set a realistic target that you know you can actually meet
> 
> 2) Take responsibility! You blame it on another company for outsourcing a part of the progress but when customers said they dont care they will take it as is...............flat out you were caught
> 
> 3) constantly lie to customers
> 
> This goes beyond being late. The way they conduct business is garbage.


I think you misunderstood anodizing vs nickleplating. The first one was referring to nickle plating the blocks, anodizing refers to the backplate.


----------



## WayWayUp

Shawnb99 said:


> I’ll take your preorder. That way you can quit your bitching and put on your big boy pants.
> After this rant if I was them I’d just cancel your order completely. Children shouldn’t be allowed to preorder


triggered 
good


----------



## Shawnb99

WayWayUp said:


> triggered
> good


You’re the one having a tantrum snowflake. Go back and hide behind mommy’s skirts the adults are talking


----------



## WayWayUp

Shawnb99 said:


> tantrum 😭


yeah okay buddy
triggered 😄


----------



## originxt

WayWayUp said:


> yeah okay buddy
> triggered 😄


Just cancel if you don't want to wait anymore lol. You don't have an obligation to hold onto the order. They cancel orders pretty quickly so I wouldn't worry about having to wait 4 days.


----------



## WayWayUp

i did but they are yet to reply
Hopefully you guys can enjoy the blocks. as i heard everything is setup for shipment, Right Afer new years!


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> I’ll take your preorder. That way you can quit your bitching and put on your big boy pants.
> After this rant if I was them I’d just cancel your order completely. Children shouldn’t be allowed to preorder


I don't know why you're always apologizing for Optimus. The complaints people have in this thread are all valid, and Optimus deserves to be called out for it. And even if people repeat it ad nauseum, it's still worth calling them out.

Look at Optimus's competitors, such as Watercool and Aquacomputer. They haven't been delaying release of their blocks for another 2 weeks into perpetuity. They've given realistic time lines from the start, and then communicated pretty early on that it would be delayed even further. They're playing it very conservative, and communicate to their customers. Two things Optimus isn't doing. That is why people are pissed at Optimus.

I was pissed of too, but mainly because they were holding on to my GPU I had sent in. Now that I have it back, I can wait however long it takes to get the block as I'm getting it for free. But everyone else here paid cold hard cash for it under the assumption they would've received their block a month ago (initial ETA was mid November). So yeah, I get why people are pissed. And you ridiculing people for complaining doesn't help.


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> I don't know why you're always apologizing for Optimus. The complaints people have in this thread are all valid, and Optimus deserves to be called out for it. And even if people repeat it ad nauseum, it's still worth calling them out.
> 
> Look at Optimus's competitors, such as Watercool and Aquacomputer. They haven't been delaying release of their blocks for another 2 weeks into perpetuity. They've given realistic time lines from the start, and then communicated pretty early on that it would be delayed even further. They're playing it very conservative, and communicate to their customers. Two things Optimus isn't doing. That is why people are pissed at Optimus.
> 
> I was pissed of too, but mainly because they were holding on to my GPU I had sent in. Now that I have it back, I can wait however long it takes to get the block as I'm getting it for free. But everyone else here paid cold hard cash for it under the assumption they would've received their block a month ago (initial ETA was mid November). So yeah, I get why people are pissed. And you ridiculing people for complaining doesn't help.


Did you seriously believe complaining would get you your block quicker? Otherwise this is all for performance. So I’ll gladly call out the adults for throwing a public tantrum. You’re welcome to cancel your order if you can’t wait, otherwise if your going to put in a public show then except to be called out on it.
Don’t like it? Then don’t do it.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> Did you seriously believe complaining would get you your block quicker? Otherwise this is all for performance. So I’ll gladly call out the adults for throwing a public tantrum. You’re welcome to cancel your order if you can’t wait, otherwise if your going to put in a public show then except to be called out on it.
> Don’t like it? Then don’t do it.


If people didn't complain, nothing would ever change. As then a business/politician/whatever would think people are content with the way things are.


----------



## lordkahless

Just fyi I placed an order for the 3090 FTW3 block from Optimus day 1 on the 2nd batch release. My email was asking if I would receive mine from that group this year or would it be January or further. The response I got was it was too hard to say when. So if you are in that group I wouldn't expect to receive anything this year and plan for sometime within the first quarter of next year would be my guess.


----------



## Fluxmaven

From everything I have seen, Optimus is the king of overpromising and underdelivering. I was the 2nd person to reply to this thread back when it was first opened and was curious to see what they were bringing to the market. Here we are 300+ pages deep and every time I have bothered to check in, the thread is full of upset people. 

AMD Signature block - Never happened
2080ti Blocks - Delayed so long the 3xxx series came out
3xxx blocks- What everyone is currently crying about

I'm willing to give a new company a pass for the first few months as they are figuring out the logistics and working out supplier issues, but it's been well over a year and they still don't seem to have things figured out very well.


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus is definitely shipping the product. I agree Communication has not always been what we would prefer, but this whole conspiracy that they are straight up lying needs to stop, I mean if you want to, I guess go for it, but its not helping any one.

For the rest of us, that day has finally come!!!


----------



## whaleboy_4096

Keith Myers said:


> If you care about the Optimus logo being upside down, you will need to flip the coldplate-acyrlic insert sandwich in the mounting bracket.


Thanks. I'm going for subtle... no RGB, and the case is on the floor, so the upside down logo won't be noticable, so not worth the effort to flip (for me).


----------



## Eulerian

Boop


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, blocks are starting to ship today. People will get email notifications with shipping info as it happens. A handful will go out today, more and more next few days, and we're keeping up the shipping through holidays. 

And we do really, really appreciate everyone hanging in there  We don't have the time to be on OCN all the time these days, so we're doing most of our communication on Twitter. OCN threads can get sidetracked fast, so it's super hard to respond to everything without refreshing constantly. 

And we hear you 1000% on the delays and challenges. It has been an insane year, and that's not even including the stuff happening outside of water cooling. Practically every company has had issues during this rotting carcass that is 2020. Not that it's really any good excuse for our blown etas, but even when we thought we had built in plenty of extra time for the FTW blocks, we got stomped by the 2020 monster. And it honestly kills us every day that we're behind. 

All that said, we are super proud of the continued performance and quality we're able to achieve with all our products. We'd rather not ship than ship half-baked product. Our FTW is an absolute performance and quality beast. Once you guys get the blocks, you'll be blown away. This is the best product we've ever made, it's a whole new level for us. 

So our Wonka Factory is running 24/7 right now making GPUs. We'll only offer more GPUs and other blocks once they are actually in production. In the future, we'll move to only selling in-stock items. 

Finally, we'll be doing a b-stock (aka cosmetic defect) big ol' sale later this month. So if anyone wants additional blocks to, ya know, sand or thrash or for 2nd/3rd systems, we'll have them available.


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, blocks are starting to ship today. People will get email notifications with shipping info as it happens. A handful will go out today, more and more next few days, and we're keeping up the shipping through holidays.
> 
> And we do really, really appreciate everyone hanging in there  We don't have the time to be on OCN all the time these days, so we're doing most of our communication on Twitter. OCN threads can get sidetracked fast, so it's super hard to respond to everything without refreshing constantly.
> 
> And we hear you 1000% on the delays and challenges. It has been an insane year, and that's not even including the stuff happening outside of water cooling. Practically every company has had issues during this rotting carcass that is 2020. Not that it's really any good excuse for our blown etas, but even when we thought we had built in plenty of extra time for the FTW blocks, we got stomped by the 2020 monster. And it honestly kills us every day that we're behind.
> 
> All that said, we are super proud of the continued performance and quality we're able to achieve with all our products. We'd rather not ship than ship half-baked product. Our FTW is an absolute performance and quality beast. Once you guys get the blocks, you'll be blown away. This is the best product we've ever made, it's a whole new level for us.
> 
> So our Wonka Factory is running 24/7 right now making GPUs. We'll only offer more GPUs and other blocks once they are actually in production. In the future, we'll move to only selling in-stock items.
> 
> Finally, we'll be doing a b-stock (aka cosmetic defect) big ol' sale later this month. So if anyone wants additional blocks to, ya know, sand or thrash or for 2nd/3rd systems, we'll have them available.


Hell yeah! You know I will be interested! We appreciate you!


----------



## Avacado

Dibs on defects!


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, blocks are starting to ship today. People will get email notifications with shipping info as it happens. A handful will go out today, more and more next few days, and we're keeping up the shipping through holidays.
> 
> And we do really, really appreciate everyone hanging in there  We don't have the time to be on OCN all the time these days, so we're doing most of our communication on Twitter. OCN threads can get sidetracked fast, so it's super hard to respond to everything without refreshing constantly.
> 
> And we hear you 1000% on the delays and challenges. It has been an insane year, and that's not even including the stuff happening outside of water cooling. Practically every company has had issues during this rotting carcass that is 2020. Not that it's really any good excuse for our blown etas, but even when we thought we had built in plenty of extra time for the FTW blocks, we got stomped by the 2020 monster. And it honestly kills us every day that we're behind.
> 
> All that said, we are super proud of the continued performance and quality we're able to achieve with all our products. We'd rather not ship than ship half-baked product. Our FTW is an absolute performance and quality beast. Once you guys get the blocks, you'll be blown away. This is the best product we've ever made, it's a whole new level for us.
> 
> So our Wonka Factory is running 24/7 right now making GPUs. We'll only offer more GPUs and other blocks once they are actually in production. In the future, we'll move to only selling in-stock items.
> 
> Finally, we'll be doing a b-stock (aka cosmetic defect) big ol' sale later this month. So if anyone wants additional blocks to, ya know, sand or thrash or for 2nd/3rd systems, we'll have them available.


Hopefully third way is ready to order. My 3090 is waiting for an block now lol.


----------



## Recipe7

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, blocks are starting to ship today. People will get email notifications with shipping info as it happens. A handful will go out today, more and more next few days, and we're keeping up the shipping through holidays.
> 
> And we do really, really appreciate everyone hanging in there  We don't have the time to be on OCN all the time these days, so we're doing most of our communication on Twitter. OCN threads can get sidetracked fast, so it's super hard to respond to everything without refreshing constantly.
> 
> And we hear you 1000% on the delays and challenges. It has been an insane year, and that's not even including the stuff happening outside of water cooling. Practically every company has had issues during this rotting carcass that is 2020. Not that it's really any good excuse for our blown etas, but even when we thought we had built in plenty of extra time for the FTW blocks, we got stomped by the 2020 monster. And it honestly kills us every day that we're behind.
> 
> All that said, we are super proud of the continued performance and quality we're able to achieve with all our products. We'd rather not ship than ship half-baked product. Our FTW is an absolute performance and quality beast. Once you guys get the blocks, you'll be blown away. This is the best product we've ever made, it's a whole new level for us.
> 
> So our Wonka Factory is running 24/7 right now making GPUs. We'll only offer more GPUs and other blocks once they are actually in production. In the future, we'll move to only selling in-stock items.
> 
> Finally, we'll be doing a b-stock (aka cosmetic defect) big ol' sale later this month. So if anyone wants additional blocks to, ya know, sand or thrash or for 2nd/3rd systems, we'll have them available.


Thanks for the update!

I completely regret my decision to cancel my batch 1 preorder. I canceled because I found the 3090 FE I've been looking for but realized the 3 year warranty does not apply to anyone except the original owner. I ended up picking up another 3080 ftw3 since then.

I'll be waiting for the b-stock, keep us updated, I'm interested.


----------



## Section31

Fluxmaven said:


> From everything I have seen, Optimus is the king of overpromising and underdelivering. I was the 2nd person to reply to this thread back when it was first opened and was curious to see what they were bringing to the market. Here we are 300+ pages deep and every time I have bothered to check in, the thread is full of upset people.
> 
> AMD Signature block - Never happened
> 2080ti Blocks - Delayed so long the 3xxx series came out
> 3xxx blocks- What everyone is currently crying about
> 
> I'm willing to give a new company a pass for the first few months as they are figuring out the logistics and working out supplier issues, but it's been well over a year and they still don't seem to have things figured out very well.


I think you are right overall but some points you can't blame anyone. In particular, the AMD Signature Block. Product lineups can change and pre-mature announcement aren't best thing but they do happen. Remember Heatkiller said they would come out with new block for Ryzen but in the end there research showed no reason too. Heatkiller has leaked out the fan controller for the longest time but even they didn't come out with it and they are pushing out products elsewhere. 

Most of this thread are excited for there future products (me included) but there's no guarantee they ultimately come to fruition.


----------



## Section31

Recipe7 said:


> Thanks for the update!
> 
> I completely regret my decision to cancel my batch 1 preorder. I canceled because I found the 3090 FE I've been looking for but realized the 3 year warranty does not apply to anyone except the original owner. I ended up picking up another 3080 ftw3 since then.
> 
> I'll be waiting for the b-stock, keep us updated, I'm interested.


It happens. The waterblock situation for 3000 Series has been pretty awful imo. I prefer to go FE/Reference versus Strix/FTW3 (cost never worth it) but unfortunately we don't have an say with Nvidia. If Founders was reference day one, i think blocks would be more widely available now. Most of the blocks aren't ready till next year. I don't even know what AMD situation is considering the overclocking card people want (that hit 2.8-3Ghz) are also AIB only.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Section31 said:


> I think you are right overall but some points you can't blame anyone. In particular, the AMD Signature Block. Product lineups can change and pre-mature announcement aren't best thing but they do happen. Remember Heatkiller said they would come out with new block for Ryzen but in the end there research showed no reason too. Heatkiller has leaked out the fan controller for the longest time but even they didn't come out with it and they are pushing out products elsewhere.
> 
> Most of this thread are excited for there future products (me included) but there's no guarantee they ultimately come to fruition.


Don't get me wrong, I want them to succeed. I love that they are trying to push the envelope and come out with super premium blocks. I just think they should avoid taking preorders if they can't accurately gauge timelines for things being delivered. Their recent post stating that they are going to switch to in stock only makes way more sense for them IMO.


----------



## Section31

Fluxmaven said:


> Don't get me wrong, I want them to succeed. I love that they are trying to push the envelope and come out with super premium blocks. I just think they should avoid taking preorders if they can't accurately gauge timelines for things being delivered. Their recent post stating that they are going to switch to in stock only makes way more sense for them IMO.


Thats the good new. What’s more interesting is when botting comes to water parts lol


----------



## Fluxmaven

Lol hopefully soon so I'll give up and stop buying so much stuff.... Watercooling is a terrible addiction.


----------



## asdf893

I placed my order on their site before they gave the heads up here so I imagine I'm one of the first and I haven't heard anything from optimus, neither shipping notification nor asking whether I want copper or nickel as they said on twitter they'd ask. Has anyone here heard about their order shipping or copper/nickel choice?


----------



## asdf893

Optimus WC said:


> And we do really, really appreciate everyone hanging in there  We don't have the time to be on OCN all the time these days, so we're doing most of our communication on Twitter. OCN threads can get sidetracked fast, so it's super hard to respond to everything without refreshing constantly.


Why don't you send updates to your paying customers over email? How does twitter make more sense than emails?


----------



## iunlock

sakete said:


> I still need to start tuning my 3080. I haven't yet found the motivation to start increasing clock speeds and then stability testing it. I might just wait until I get the waterblock.
> 
> Otherwise it's running at 60-70 fps on average, sometimes dips below 60 in heavy scenes. This is with ultra settings and DLSS on quality on 1440p. With DLSS off, it runs at about 40fps. Game still needs a lot of optimizing, but it runs OK on the best hardware.
> 
> I might also pick up a 5950x at some point to replace my 3900x (and be set for a few years, as the next gen after this would also require going to new mobo and ram), which should give another 10-15fps I'd guess.


Please DM me when you get around to testing Cyberpunk... I'm just about to run it through some tests right now and match it up against some baselines. I think with my tuning and where it's currently at right now it should get pretty close to a stock 3090 from the data I've gathered.

Ex. On Ultra settings @ 4K, the 3090 floats right around the low 40's fps... the 3080 is right in the upper 30's fps... so I'm pretty confident that I can match the stock 3090. 

The 30 series cards are pretty strong. I have a lot of flight time with pretty much all the GPU brands from the many builds and what I really appreciate about the 30 series is that the Core is made by Samsung. It has a lot of similar characteristics as my 2080Ti KP card, which also has strong core made in S.Korea. These have always been proven to be the cream of the crop... The memory is new an shiny, but they aren't as strong as Samsung chips.. I'm curious if the 3090 Ti KP card will feature Samsung memory when it launches.



oreonutz said:


> Yeah, right now I am running my FTW3 with the OC BIOS capped at 400w, with a small OC netting me an average of 2055Mhz on the Core and Only 2500.5 Mhz (So just over 20,000Gbps) on the Memory, simply because if I push any more power through it, I end up exceeding 75c on the both the Core and the Memory. With the Full 450W Power being pushed through the core and running my max stable OC, I start getting Memory Temperatures approaching 90c and Core Temps exceeding 87c, which is just too far for me. I am sure the card would be fine, but as someone who has run Watercooled cards (in one form or another - Used to Use AIO's on them before upgrading to full on Watercooling years back) I just am not comfortable seeing Temps that high on my cards.
> 
> And running Ray Tracing on Ultra with CyberPunk seems to run my card just as hard as Benchmarking it does, normally with my 400w Power Limit I would see temps settle around 72c on both Memory and the core in other games, but in Cyber Punk, It settles in more around 76c on both.
> 
> In short, I can't wait for these blocks to ship! So hoping for that news to come out sometime today that shipping as begun. Probably won't happen, but a man can dream! LOL!


What's your ambient temp? I've just got done with some more in game testing at different fan speed levels and at 90% fan speed it tops out at 52C @ 2160MHz. 

I can't wait to test Cyberpunk... here we go!



straha20 said:


> I can't even start my build until I have the water block. I am custom making an acrylic motherboard tray with hard line tubing, so need the block to see where the ports are so I can figure out where I need to put my bulkheads.


I know that feeling lol. Right now I'm using temporary tubing with all three 360 rads cooling just the CPU for now while the 3080 is on the stock blower. I guess it gives me more time to figure out how I want to run the new set up...


----------



## straha20

asdf893 said:


> Why don't you send updates to your paying customers over email? How does twitter make more sense than emails?


This is one thing that does annoy about a lot of companies...the presumption that everyone is on all the various social media platforms. If it wasn't for the tweets being reposted here, I would have no idea that they existed. I know that many people are, and even more people in the tech community are, and I accept that I will miss out on some things, though I have yet to miss anything so important as to feel compelled to actually join any of those platforms.

That said, once the order is placed, that person is more important than the randoms out on social media. They are no longer in the position to be being marketed to, they are in the position to be supported, and twitter is not an appropriate venue for support.


----------



## straha20

There is no denying the quality of the product. They are excellent. I am in the planning stages of another build that will be Steam Punk inside an antique Victorian Steamer Trunk with copper tubing. Where this whole experience is really damaging to the company though is that I am a customer left feeling as if I am not able to count on their products in my planning. I am a customer who is not finding myself anticipating their next product.

I get that there were delays beyond their control. That is just part of the current environment we find ourselves, but I gave them over $400 nearly two months ago. The least they could have done is kept in contact, provided updates over email rather than assuming their twitter would reach their existing customers.

I am curious though if anyone here has actually received a shipping notification today?


----------



## Eulerian

Removed


----------



## asdf893

straha20 said:


> I am curious though if anyone here has actually received a shipping notification today?


I asked the same thing on the previous page.


----------



## oreonutz

iunlock said:


> What's your ambient temp? I've just got done with some more in game testing at different fan speed levels and at 90% fan speed it tops out at 52C @ 2160MHz.
> 
> I can't wait to test Cyberpunk... here we go!


So right now my ambient temps sits between 25c to 26c. (Every other time of the year when we aren't in our cold 3 months of the year, my room ambients sit between 27c and 30c). I have found this cooler to only be effective when its loud, right around 80% fan speed. It is quite good when it is there, but I have a custom curve set up on it to not allow it to go above 65%, simply because I prefer to keep the noise lower. Its something that has stuck with me since my studio days, I have always preferred a quiet rig, when I have headphones on I don't care, but when playing single player games I usually have the sound up on my 7.1 Surround Sound System, and it always bothers me when I get to a quiet part of the game and my fans just grab my attention, So because of that, I cap this card at 65% because its not Overly obnoxious then, and still does ok with cooling. I know that is part of the reason why my temps are so high, but I am used to having my fans completely inaudible, even when gaming for 8 hours straight, so I just need this block to arrive! LOL!

I am finding CyberPunk to be a really good benchmark with all the settings Maxed out. It really does push both the Core and the Memory. If I set a manual Fan speed to 86%, I can stabilize 2125 On the Core, and 2664Mhz on the Memory (As reported by HWinfo, so take that number times 8 and arrive at the 21,312Gbps Effective Speed, if you take the number from GPUz then its 1332Mhz, and that needs to be multiplied by 16 to get the effective speed. Still not quite sure why they all report different Metrics, Afterburner reports half the effective speed, so they all report different metrics, not sure which is the preferred method to report it, so I just usually say HWinfo's Metric and Effective so there is no confusion). So that works out for me to be +115 on the Core, and +1155 on the Memory.

Then if we take The Outer Worlds for instance, which is another game I have been playing lately, I can run that game a bit harder with perfect stability, same as pretty much every other game I play. So in The Outer Worlds I can run 2150Mhz (+135 On the Core) and on the Memory I can run 2687.5 (21,500Gbps / +1250 Mem), but in Cyberpunk within 10 Minutes I get a driver crash if I run that, so had to back it off ever so slightly. Whats funny is I can get through most Benchmarks with those settings at least once, so Cyberpunk appears to really work the Card, and it also seems to give the VRAM a Super workout, those are the highest VRAM Temps I have seen yet, about an hour into playing My VRam Temps Peak at 84c even with the 86% fan speed. But the difference between that Max OC, and my lower Every Day OC to lower temps and power is about a 3.42% Performance Difference, at least in the area I have been bench marking, so really having the cooler card, lower power, and lower noise is worth the literally almost 2FPS average difference.

Anyways, interested to see how far you get with your settled Cyberpunk OC. Once I get my block I do intend to push it, but until then I rather keep the Mem Temps as low as possible.





asdf893 said:


> I asked the same thing on the previous page.


Unfortunately I also did not get a notification today that it shipped, I was hoping I would because I have reason to think I was around the 9th person or so to order, I also knew in advance, but had to play transfer the money around before ordering, so I know a few people beat me to the punch. 

However, not to be an apologist for Optimus, just trying to view the situation in the best possible light, which I understand may be hard to do considering, but I always try to, and its likely that today was spent putting together the blocks and QC Testing. Most likely tomorrow we will start to see some of us getting those shipped notifications. I don't know how many cards are in the first batch, but I don't think its a stretch to assume that most, if not all the cards will be sent out by this time next week, and hopefully we will all be reporting here that our card is on the way, so we will know.

Fingers Crossed 🤞🏽


----------



## iunlock

I agree, Cyberpunk is absolutely amazing to make any hardware beg for mercy with truly maxed out settings w/ Psycho. I've been having a blast tuning the 3080 with Cyberpunk. Gosh I can't wait to get the water block on this card...

On the stock blower w/ 100% fans...

RTX 3080 | 9900K
Cyberpunk 2077 @ 4K
Fully maxed out settings...
DLSS - Quality 
Psycho mode

So far...
2160MHz Core / 10,000MHz+ Mem (using 3DMark metrics)

That seems to be the limit with the stock blower as the game would flat line with anything higher after playing it for a while and/or in a heavy fight scene, but dang I'm not complaining.  This is enough data for me to really be excited for the water block and on to benching it'll surely go.

The game is incredible and it should also be the new golden standard for benchmarks at the 4K + Fully Maxed Settings. 

For 4K gaming, there is very little difference between Ultra and High so with a customized setting and with the help of DLSS, one could enjoy a nice 4K experience from one of the finest titles to date.


----------



## oreonutz

iunlock said:


> I agree, Cyberpunk is absolutely amazing to make any hardware beg for mercy with truly maxed out settings w/ Psycho. I've been having a blast tuning the 3080 with Cyberpunk. Gosh I can't wait to get the water block on this card...
> 
> On the stock blower w/ 100% fans...
> 
> RTX 3080 | 9900K
> Cyberpunk 2077 @ 4K
> Fully maxed out settings...
> DLSS - Quality
> Psycho mode
> 
> So far...
> 2160MHz Core / 10,000MHz+ Mem (using 3DMark metrics)
> 
> That seems to be the limit with the stock blower as the game would flat line with anything higher after playing it for a while and/or in a heavy fight scene, but dang I'm not complaining.  This is enough data for me to really be excited for the water block and on to benching it'll surely go.
> 
> The game is incredible and it should also be the new golden standard for benchmarks at the 4K + Fully Maxed Settings.
> 
> For 4K gaming, there is very little difference between Ultra and High so with a customized setting and with the help of DLSS, one could enjoy a nice 4K experience from one of the finest titles to date.


NICE!!!!!! Dude, better than I am able to do in that game. Think My Memory is higher, but my core is definitely more than a few ticks lower. I also haven't even tried Pyscho yet. I am doing Full on Quality everything, with DLSS Quality, just not Pyscho. I will turn it on and see how I do. But for now, I am happy with performance. I have just been enjoying the game!

Also, no notification of a shipped block for me today 😢

There Tweet had me thinking they would be working through the weekend, but I went back and read it, they said they would be working through the Holiday, not the weekend, so they might not be shipping cards this weekend, which is a big sad face from me, but Here is hoping to Monday!!!


----------



## Zurv

@oreonutz lucky  (edit: i'm a dummy and "read" that he got a notice.. but he didn't.. cause.. dummy.)
I ordered mine super fast once that link went up, but no notice ;( boo
when did you order it?


----------



## straha20

Zurv said:


> @oreonutz lucky
> I ordered mine super fast once that link went up, but no notice ;( boo
> when did you order it?
> View attachment 2469205


My order was probably the last one in batch 1 eta mid-Nov as I managed to snag one of the cancellations. My confirmation is October 20, 10:31am.


----------



## asdf893

Zurv said:


> @oreonutz lucky
> I ordered mine super fast once that link went up, but no notice ;( boo
> when did you order it?
> View attachment 2469205


Here's mine, no notice or question whether I want nickel or copper.


----------



## WayWayUp

asdf893 said:


> Here's mine, no notice or question whether I want nickel or copper.
> 
> View attachment 2469213


i was one of the first ppl to buy the product as i was lurking on their website that day looking at reservoirs and also follow on twitter. I literally bought within 2min of it being up

I havent been able to find anyone on any forum to say they received a notification!

Probably more like they just want to say, "hey look we said late next week and we hit the target this time" even though there is no evidence of any shipments

An easy way for them to buy more time. They just dont want everyone to say wow they missed the target AGAIN
I still suspect Tuesday shipments, as was stated earlier. This company lies about everything


----------



## asdf893

WayWayUp said:


> i was one of the first ppl to buy the product as i was lurking on their website that day looking at reservoirs and also follow on twitter. I literally bought within 2min of it being up
> 
> I havent been able to find anyone on any forum to say they received a notification!
> 
> Probably more like they just want to say, "hey look we said late next week and we hit the target this time" even though there is no evidence of any shipments
> 
> An easy way for them to buy more time. They just dont want everyone to say wow they missed the target AGAIN
> I still suspect Tuesday shipments, as was stated earlier. This company lies about everything


Are you going for nickel or copper? They said they'd email customers before shipping to ask.


----------



## straha20

asdf893 said:


> Are you going for nickel or copper? They said they'd email customers before shipping to ask.


A few weeks back, they also suggested that we could opt for no plating on the block and get it quicker too...


----------



## asdf893

straha20 said:


> A few weeks back, they also suggested that we could opt for no plating on the block and get it quicker too...


yea but I think that was here and not on twitter. And I guess nothing really came of it so must not be the case anymore.


----------



## straha20

Optimus Waterblock


Hey there! So any chance that for those of us who have stated in this thread recently that we are perfectly fine without the nickel plating, especially if it means we can get them sooner, can get them? Yes, correct! Email us at [email protected] to make the request. As long as Illinois doesn't go into...




www.overclock.net





This was a month ago. Never even got a reply.


----------



## Shawnb99

So direct die with the Sigv2 and the 10900 anything I need to know?


----------



## asdf893

straha20 said:


> Optimus Waterblock
> 
> 
> Hey there! So any chance that for those of us who have stated in this thread recently that we are perfectly fine without the nickel plating, especially if it means we can get them sooner, can get them? Yes, correct! Email us at [email protected] to make the request. As long as Illinois doesn't go into...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was a month ago. Never even got a reply.


To their credit they did respond when I asked them to cancel and refund a product that I had ordered on the same order as the GPU block order.


----------



## oreonutz

Zurv said:


> @oreonutz lucky
> I ordered mine super fast once that link went up, but no notice ;( boo
> when did you order it?
> View attachment 2469205


Sorry, got thrown head first into a project to clean up and fix the major mistakes one of my employee's had made, before the client realized how bad we had borked the Monday Rollout (This is what happens when I don't do projects myself, lol). Its been a real s**t show, to say the least. 

Anyways, I'm just now peeking my head up for the first time since writing my last post, and I was really hoping for some good news, so I just checked my email, and unfortunately still no shipping notification. 😕

Also, you said "Lucky". I don't know what that was in reference to, but if it was in reference to me getting a shipping notification for the block, I think I may have worded something improperly, because I have NOT gotten my notification yet, back then, or now.

Here is my order time:









Looks like you had me beat by a good 12 Mins or so, and @straha20 had me beat by about 20 Minutes... 

I was wrestling with my Bank accounts, trying to get a transfer to go through. I had just purchased 4 more 3080's (For Christmas Presents and 2 Client Builds) literally minutes just before I got notified that this block went live, so I had to scramble to get that xfer to go through to have the capital available to purchase the block. Looks like because of that, there might be more people than I thought ahead of me. Depending on how many more of you beat me, I may be one of the latter to receive my block notification. 😒

Anyways, here is to hoping tomorrow we see screenshots of some of you guys with Shipping notifications! Doubly hoping enough go out for me to get mine as well! 🤞🏽


----------



## Zurv

@oreonutz my bad, my brain read that you got a notice  oh broke brain 

that said, i just got a notice that that a label was made. So stuff is finally moving. I hope it makes it here (brooklyn) before the weekend. The darn fan is so loud. Cyberpunk is already just "fine..." add a blasting fan.. ugh..


----------



## asdf893

Zurv said:


> @oreonutz my bad, my brain read that you got a notice  oh broke brain
> 
> that said, i just got a notice that that a label was made. So stuff is finally moving. I hope it makes it here (brooklyn) before the weekend. The darn fan is so loud. Cyberpunk is already just "fine..." add a blasting fan.. ugh..


What time did you place your order? Did Optimus ask you whether you want a nickel or copper block?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Hoping santa makes it by optimus to bring some joy to you folks


----------



## straha20

asdf893 said:


> What time did you place your order? Did Optimus ask you whether you want a nickel or copper block?


Here is their order info...









Optimus Waterblock


And we do really, really appreciate everyone hanging in there :) We don't have the time to be on OCN all the time these days, so we're doing most of our communication on Twitter. OCN threads can get sidetracked fast, so it's super hard to respond to everything without refreshing constantly...




www.overclock.net


----------



## asdf893

straha20 said:


> Here is their order info...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimus Waterblock
> 
> 
> And we do really, really appreciate everyone hanging in there :) We don't have the time to be on OCN all the time these days, so we're doing most of our communication on Twitter. OCN threads can get sidetracked fast, so it's super hard to respond to everything without refreshing constantly...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net


Thanks. As I understand it Zurv's 7:46pm order has a shipping label associated with it already but my 7:41pm order doesn't. What the.


----------



## Zurv

asdf893 said:


> Thanks. As I understand it Zurv's 7:46pm order has a shipping label associated with it already but my 7:41pm order doesn't. What the.


wacky, but it is just a label and hasn't shipped yet. Hopefully you get in there when everything is picked up. (7pm is normally the cut off for UPS pickup.)
i didn't make any special requests.


----------



## asdf893

Since they insist on having us scrape their twitter for updates, this is why I'd expect earlier orders to ship before later orders.


----------



## asdf893

And here's why I'm expecting them to email us before shipping out blocks to ask us whether we want nickel or copper blocks. Are they lying again?


----------



## Shawnb99

If you think they are lying why are you still buying from them?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep twits make more noise.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep twits make more noise.


Twitter is complete mess. Sometimes i wonder what age group are the people on twitter.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Twitter is complete mess. Sometimes i wonder what age group are the people on twitter.


Hi,
Yep their all woke for sure


----------



## asdf893

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep their all woke for sure


they're


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I stand spell corrected


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, yes, the blocks are shipping, more will ship every day, with increasing numbers. Some of the biggest challenges are, right now, finding hands to put blocks together during this covid situation. More people start next week to help get through all the orders so we can get all blocks out this month. Yup, we're spending christmas making blocks, shipping will be weird because of christmas, also hours are weird because of covid, so it could be a day or so between shipping notification and actual pickup/tracking. 

Regarding copper blocks, we've decided to offer it to people who email us, but not open it up wide. So if you want one, let us know. Because of the issues with our anodizing suppliers and assembly and all that, keeping the orders closer to their original nickel will make everything faster.


----------



## asdf893

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, yes, the blocks are shipping, more will ship every day, with increasing numbers. Some of the biggest challenges are, right now, finding hands to put blocks together during this covid situation. More people start next week to help get through all the orders so we can get all blocks out this month. Yup, we're spending christmas making blocks, shipping will be weird because of christmas, also hours are weird because of covid, so it could be a day or so between shipping notification and actual pickup/tracking.
> 
> Regarding copper blocks, we've decided to offer it to people who email us, but not open it up wide. So if you want one, let us know. Because of the issues with our anodizing suppliers and assembly and all that, keeping the orders closer to their original nickel will make everything faster.


Are you going to be asking customers before shipping whether they want copper or nickel, like you said on twitter? Also my order number is surely ahead of Zurv since I ordered 5 minutes before they did but I haven't received any shipment notification. And I've already emailed you about my block choice.


----------



## Optimus WC

asdf893 said:


> Are you going to be asking customers before shipping whether they want copper or nickel, like you said on twitter? Also my order number is surely ahead of Zurv since I ordered 5 minutes before they did but I haven't received any shipment notification. And I've already emailed you about my block choice.


We're getting your copper block ready, you should receive shipping notice tomorrow. Copper actually requires a separate process than nickel, so as we fulfill orders, it won't be exactly on time who gets what. Copper needs to stay free from oxidization and contaminates, so we want to make sure we send out perfect blocks. 

We don't think we'll open up switching to copper for everyone else who ordered, unless they email us directly. We're trying to minimize the delays.


----------



## BULLGOD19

Would it be an option/faster if sent out not assembled?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Excited for shipments going out soon!


----------



## WayWayUp

I'm so confused as to when this will ship. Especially since you brought Christmas into the equation and started talking about making sure this even ships this month....

I ordered batch 1, can I expect a shipment this week? I have no special needs


----------



## Optimus WC

Hard to say exactly, blocks are being assembled constantly, then we're shipping them as soon as we can. Your block will either ship this week or beginning of next. 

As for sending out unassembled blocks, there are a bunch of steps we need to do in assembly, it'd prob take just as long to box everything up in the appropriate way as it would be to assemble.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Hard to say exactly, blocks are being assembled constantly, then we're shipping them as soon as we can. Your block will either ship this week or beginning of next.
> 
> As for sending out unassembled blocks, there are a bunch of steps we need to do in assembly, it'd prob take just as long to box everything up in the appropriate way as it would be to assemble.


Do you have enough blocks in hand right now, just waiting on assembly and shipping, to cover the entire the Batch 1 described here from your website? As in all the parts needed, not waiting for anything else, not waiting on nickel plating for some of them, not waiting on gaskets, not waiting on machining, not waiting on some internal widget gizmo...the entire block? Do you have enough to cover this entire Batch 1 right now?

*BATCH 1 (~eta mid nov):*

All nickel, XL heatsink backplate, choice of black or silver backplate color (backplate color can be switched anytime).
The fully loaded block is our most popular, so we're starting here, rather than a lower-priced pure copper block.
*UPDATE:* Batch 1 has sold out.


----------



## sakete

@Optimus WC Great you guys are finally able to start shipping things out. Any word on when you'll get started on batch 2?


----------



## originxt

sakete said:


> @Optimus WC Great you guys are finally able to start shipping things out. Any word on when you'll get started on batch 2?












I think they meant tail end of this month.


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> View attachment 2469638
> 
> 
> I think they meant tail end of this month.


I just received the same. Hope its true.


----------



## asdf893

Section31 said:


> I just received the same. Hope its true.


Y'all are receiving email updates? I haven't received an email update. I haven't received anything but I guess I'm slightly comforted that they responded to me directly here that they know my block choice and will be shipping tomorrow. Nevermind, I got the email newsletter thing but it was in my junk folder.


----------



## oreonutz

Hey guys, sorry my head has been glued to my work all day! Just poked my head up, and My Confirmation was there!!!

Looks like they are coming!!!


----------



## oreonutz

Oh also, had to check my junk mail folder, but, I got my actual shipping confirmation as well. Make sure you guys check yours! Edited out my order number and tracking number so I don't have to worry about people being dumb on the internet, but yeah, here it is.

I Feel like a Kid on Christmas Morning man!!!


----------



## oreonutz

I can't wait til it gets here!!!


----------



## straha20

oreonutz said:


> I can't wait til it gets here!!!


With it going out USPS, be ready to wait. They have really been struggling with packages. I have had four packages sent to me via USPS over the past four weeks from various parts of the country, one from only two hours away in Elk Grove Village IL, and even that one took nine days to make it here. The quickest one was 8 days.


----------



## whaleboy_4096

Did everyone get the generic mail blast? I didn't. Nor did they answer an email question I had right after I ordered the block (batch 2), but I do have the order confirmation so i wasn't too worried at the time. It does suck that they are using USPS, and right at the busiest time of the year, so I'm expecting the shipping to take at least twice as long as what it normally would. Looks like they are saying end of the month for the last orders to go out? It's looking like those of us at the tail end of batch 2 are not going to have a block in hand until early Jan  
I hope to be wrong about that...


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> I can't wait til it gets here!!!


I can’t wait to order lol


----------



## oreonutz

straha20 said:


> With it going out USPS, be ready to wait. They have really been struggling with packages. I have had four packages sent to me via USPS over the past four weeks from various parts of the country, one from only two hours away in Elk Grove Village IL, and even that one took nine days to make it here. The quickest one was 8 days.


I am not too worried about it. If it takes a few extra days, so be it, at least I know its on the way. Also, I know it depends on what part of the country your package is being shipped from and to, but personally I have received a crap ton of Packages from USPS from all over the US, and a few from Canada, and the longest I have had to wait were the ones from Canada, those 4 all took 5 to 8 days from the time they shipped to the time I received them, and I think most of that was due to customs, and transferring to USPS (I Ordered quite a few Christmas Presents from LTT Store, and those all get transferred to USPS at the US Border, at least all mine did). Also, I just checked, and one of the Orders I ordered just 4 days ago (Early Friday Morning) also came from Chicago, and I received it this Morning with my Mail. 

Definitely Not saying everyone will enjoy normal shipping times, especially as the days progress its bound to get worse and worse and its best to have realistic expectations, that said, at least my anectodical evidence suggests that not everyone will have insane shipping times. I will definitely let you guys know if Friday Evening Rolls around and My Block doesn't get delivered or I get a Delayed ETA.

EDIT: That said though, I totally forgot until just now, so figured I should edit this and put this in too. I also ordered a fricking New Blue Xbox Series X Controller from Best Buy on Black Friday, they were selling them for like $45 on Black Friday, which was a crazy good deal considering you can't even get last Gen Authentic Controllers for that cheap. Anyways, IDK What the hell happened with that ordered, but it shipped from Las Vegas, literally about 6 Miles up the street from where I live, and for some god forsaken reason the controller didn't arrive at my house until This past Saturday! So yeah, I definitely have experienced the crazy wait times too, I just had forgotten about that until I Alt-Tabbed Back over to my CyberPunk Game, and picked up the controller (For Driving Only), and was like "Oh, Yeah, that did happen to me too! LOL!)

Anyways, hopefully that doesn't happen with this block.


----------



## oreonutz

whaleboy_4096 said:


> Did everyone get the generic mail blast? I didn't. Nor did they answer an email question I had right after I ordered the block (batch 2), but I do have the order confirmation so i wasn't too worried at the time. It does suck that they are using USPS, and right at the busiest time of the year, so I'm expecting the shipping to take at least twice as long as what it normally would. Looks like they are saying end of the month for the last orders to go out? It's looking like those of us at the tail end of batch 2 are not going to have a block in hand until early Jan
> I hope to be wrong about that...


So, its looking like Microsoft in particular is really focused on making sure Optimus Emails get sent to your Junk Folder, and depending on how your Junk Folder is set up, those emails might be getting deleted after a certain period of time. I had specifically Whitelisted the OptimusPC.com Domain in my Outlook, and still for some stupid reason, both my Newsletter from Optimus, and my actual Shipping notification itself, all got sent to Junk. 

Microsoft seems to think its somebody impersonating the OptimusPC.com address, so its sending to Junk anyway, It most likely has to do with the Mailing Program that Optimus are using to send out Mass Emails. I had to edit my Junk/Spam Settings in my Outlook Web Portal (The Spoof Intelligence Settings in Microsoft 365's Advance Threat Protection) to specifically allow all emails from OptimusPC.com, even ones it categorizes as potentially "Spoof". Not sure if this is also happening with people who use Gmail or other email providers, but its definitely a thing with mine. 

They are a new company, so probably haven't gotten into the whole setting up custom SPF Records on their domain to be able to use these Mass Email Tools while avoiding spam filters, its a whole rabbit hole that is constantly changing and a pain in the ass, so I don't blame them. But yeah, I would definitely thoroughly check your spam filters and junk folder, because Everyone who ordered a block SHOULD have at least gotten the News Letter Email. I can verify that at least 7 other people who ordered either Batch 1 or 2 Blocks all got their Newsletter emails at about 5:15pm PST Today, so if you ordered yours in Batch one or 2 you definitely should have gotten your email in that time period. 

If you did not, I would 1st, login to the OptimusPC.com Account you setup when you ordered the block, and then make sure the email on file with them is correct. 2, Look while you are there at your order status to see if it says "Fulfilled" or "Unfulfilled", if it says Fulfilled they will list a tracking number right there that you can click on to check your tracking. 

If your email on file with them is correct, then at the very least you should have received the Newsletter, I would then go into your Emails Web Portal to check your Junk/Spam Settings, to make sure its not set up to completely block what it thinks are "Spoofed" accounts from sending you email, instead of just sending those "suspicious" emails to your Junk folder. 

I hate when Email Providers straight up Block email it considers spam as default, instead of configuring it to deliver the mail to a junk folder. Having it block mail as a default makes it so when they are wrong about junk mail, you just don't get it at all, and that is messed up IMO. Its also possible that somehow you just got left out of the Newsletter, but as I am seeing on twitter that literally everyone who ordered a block got their Newsletter, I would definitely urge you to make sure your Junk Filter didn't just keep it from you. 

Anyways, good luck brother!

*___*



Section31 said:


> I can’t wait to order lol


Hey brother, just keep your eyes peeled, I believe the 3rd batch orders will be live within the next week or 2. If you want I will send you a message direct as soon as I am aware of an exact date they will go live, so you can be one of the first to put in your order for the next batch!


----------



## whaleboy_4096

oreonutz said:


> So, its looking like Microsoft in particular......


I'm using Gmail, and I did receive the order confirmation, so I know the address on file is correct. I've aslo checked my promotions folder (a gmail thing) and the spam folder, and not there. I also have an AM4 block on the same order.


----------



## oreonutz

whaleboy_4096 said:


> I'm using Gmail, and I did receive the order confirmation, so I know the address on file is correct. I've aslo checked my promotions folder (a gmail thing) and the spam folder, and not there. I also have an AM4 block on the same order.


I am also very familiar with Gmail, I HATE their Promotions and Social Folders almost as much as I HATE Microsoft's "Focused Inbox" Folder! If I wanted to separate my email to different folders, I would create a policy to do so (Which I do), I hate that automatic sorting Crap based on their Algorithms. Granted they have gotten much better over the years, especially Google's, but it still pisses me off when a client is swearing up and down that he hasn't received some very important email, and then it turns out the client didn't realize he/she has a whole other folder to check other than Inbox and Junk, and inevitably, thats where it was. Instead of just automatically sorting email, it should air on the side of caution, display the email in the users inbox, but when the user opens the email, it should have a big bright yellow alert at the top of the inbox asking if they would like to sort out messages from this user in the future, this way the user knows to check some other folder for that particular class of email in the future, instead of never even knowing that folder exists.

Anyways, thats my rant for the night. Yeah, if you got your Order Notification (Mine also had gotten flagged) when you ordered, then you should have gotten the Newsletter as well. So not sure what happened there, its possible that their email client they are using to send mass emails just missed yours in error. Luckily, we have posted it a few times so you aren't missing out there, but I would recommend just checking your OptimusPC.com account daily to see when your order status switched to "Fulfilled" and then when it does the same page will also list your tracking number. Then at that point when you know the block is being shipped, but you still hadn't received an email, you can reach out to Optimus C/S and let them know that you are somehow not getting their emails, so they can check it out on their end.

Anyways, here is to hoping you get your block soon as well!


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> I am also very familiar with Gmail, I HATE their Promotions and Social Folders almost as much as I HATE Microsoft's "Focused Inbox" Folder! If I wanted to separate my email to different folders, I would create a policy to do so (Which I do), I hate that automatic sorting Crap based on their Algorithms. Granted they have gotten much better over the years, especially Google's, but it still pisses me off when a client is swearing up and down that he hasn't received some very important email, and then it turns out the client didn't realize he/she has a whole other folder to check other than Inbox and Junk, and inevitably, thats where it was. Instead of just automatically sorting email, it should air on the side of caution, display the email in the users inbox, but when the user opens the email, it should have a big bright yellow alert at the top of the inbox asking if they would like to sort out messages from this user in the future, this way the user knows to check some other folder for that particular class of email in the future, instead of never even knowing that folder exists.
> 
> Anyways, thats my rant for the night. Yeah, if you got your Order Notification (Mine also had gotten flagged) when you ordered, then you should have gotten the Newsletter as well. So not sure what happened there, its possible that their email client they are using to send mass emails just missed yours in error. Luckily, we have posted it a few times so you aren't missing out there, but I would recommend just checking your OptimusPC.com account daily to see when your order status switched to "Fulfilled" and then when it does the same page will also list your tracking number. Then at that point when you know the block is being shipped, but you still hadn't received an email, you can reach out to Optimus C/S and let them know that you are somehow not getting their emails, so they can check it out on their end.
> 
> Anyways, here is to hoping you get your block soon as well!


That's why I use my own domain for email. Full control over everything. Yeah, only downside is that my emails sometimes end up in spam folders, even though I've setup SPF, DMARC, etc. But I like having control and the peace of mind that Google and Microsoft aren't datamining my emails. 

I recently ordered a few fittings from Koolance with USPS shipping. The package kind of disappeared for a week with no tracking updates (it just said in transit) and then finally appeared in my mailbox.

I've been using fedex/ups where possible for shipping, more reliable.


----------



## Shawnb99

Concerning shipping with USPS, ordered fittings that shipped on the 8th, USPS hasn’t updated the info to show tracking info created and no updates since. Optimus swears the package was picked up but USPS is slow as usual. Package is only going to Florida and it’s on day 7 now on it’s way to get there. So expect delays with the blocks as well. All shipping is swamped atm.


----------



## straha20

For those who have gotten shipping notifications now, what shipping method was selected at the time of order?

I selected UPS Ground when I ordered because I am only a couple hours down the interstate from Addison IL. UPS Ground has always been very fast and reliable for me, even recently, with orders from Chicago and Indianapolis, so I am really hoping that it still ships UPS.

And seriously, I would be more than happy to actually drive up there and manually pick it up at this point. Meet at a Starbucks parking lot or something...


----------



## Zurv

straha20 said:


> For those who have gotten shipping notifications now, what shipping method was selected at the time of order?
> 
> I selected UPS Ground when I ordered because I am only a couple hours down the interstate from Addison IL. UPS Ground has always been very fast and reliable for me, even recently, with orders from Chicago and Indianapolis, so I am really hoping that it still ships UPS.
> 
> And seriously, I would be more than happy to actually drive up there and manually pick it up at this point. Meet at a Starbucks parking lot or something...


I picked UPS ground and it should be here (Brooklyn) tomorrow. That said, we are about to get hit with our first snow storm of the season (16"-18") - so who knows if it will make it tomorrow.


----------



## ThrashZone

HI,
I got an email too lol 
ftw3 blocks are shipping goodie I didn't even order one hope it gets here before xmas 😎


----------



## WayWayUp

I live like 30min from their facility i would hope it would be 2 days max. That said I'm just waiting on the notification but not confident it will be this week
I just picked up the core p7. doing 3 separate loops and putting this bad boy in its own loop with 420mm x2 thick rads in a push pull
I'm in a confusing situation as i would like to build my new system but i dont want to stop playing cyberpunk and its pretty hard to plan without the block

cant wait


----------



## asdf893

whaleboy_4096 said:


> I'm using Gmail, and I did receive the order confirmation, so I know the address on file is correct. I've aslo checked my promotions folder (a gmail thing) and the spam folder, and not there. I also have an AM4 block on the same order.


on hotmail my order confirmation etc... came in fine but the generic email blast went straight to Junk.


----------



## sakete

/offtopic

That Cyberpunk game is pretty awesome. Yeah there are some bugs that I'm sure will be ironed out in the coming months, but I don't get all the hate it's receiving on social media (in particular on reddit). The gameplay is great (though the AI could be improved as battles are pretty easy), but especially the storyline and voice acting is top notch. And tons of side quests. I've barely made progress on the main story as I'm just trying to level up my character with side quests.

It's been years since I've played a game that captivated me like this. I usually can't play a game for more than an hour at a time, as by then I've had enough and need to do something else. But this game I've put in 2-3 hour stretches at a time, which for me is saying a lot. It might be, though, that the cyberpunk genre is MY genre  Right up my ally. Also loved the Deus Ex games from a few years ago.

Just don't get all the hate. People expect too much these days.


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> /offtopic
> 
> That Cyberpunk game is pretty awesome. Yeah there are some bugs that I'm sure will be ironed out in the coming months, but I don't get all the hate it's receiving on social media (in particular on reddit). The gameplay is great (though the AI could be improved as battles are pretty easy), but especially the storyline and voice acting is top notch. And tons of side quests. I've barely made progress on the main story as I'm just trying to level up my character with side quests.
> 
> It's been years since I've played a game that captivated me like this. I usually can't play a game for more than an hour at a time, as by then I've had enough and need to do something else. But this game I've put in 2-3 hour stretches at a time, which for me is saying a lot. It might be, though, that the cyberpunk genre is MY genre  Right up my ally. Also loved the Deus Ex games from a few years ago.
> 
> Just don't get all the hate. People expect too much these days.


Also Off Topic...

100000000000% Agree. I am stuck on this game man... I have been burrying my head in work, knocking out as much as I possibly can, as fast as I can, from 5am until about 3pm, depending on my schedule for the day, and then IMMEDIATELY Jumping onto CyberPunk! I LOVE THIS Fricking game. I also am exploiting the Soda Cans trick to get me as much money as possible since its so hard otherwise to get the kind of money you want in the game to get everything you want. So between farming Soda, and Sidequests and clearing out random punks on the street, I barely have cleared through the story. I barely met Mr Silverhand, and got my favorite weapon in the game from the Corpo Chick you have an encounter with at the No Tell Motel, lol. I love that weapon!!! Don't want to spoil it for anyone, but if you see it, you will know what I am talking about. Its funny as hell to beat up a big ass thug with it, lol!

For real, the Glitches really do suck. My game crashes at LEAST 3 times a 4 hour play session, that gets annoying. That and getting stuck in walls Sucks. But people constantly T-Posing and standing on air gets pretty funny, so I don't mind that so much.

I really do think they did an amazing job on this game though. Its just murdering my 3080! I can't wait for this block to get here!!!



straha20 said:


> For those who have gotten shipping notifications now, what shipping method was selected at the time of order?
> 
> I selected UPS Ground when I ordered because I am only a couple hours down the interstate from Addison IL. UPS Ground has always been very fast and reliable for me, even recently, with orders from Chicago and Indianapolis, so I am really hoping that it still ships UPS.



I didn't even realize I had an option for shipping when I ordered it. I probably did and just didn't think about it. I think at the time I picked the cheapest 2 day shipping they had, so I probably just picked USPS without thinking about it. Had I realized the time period it was shipping in I certainly would have picked UPS despite whatever the extra cost was (I don't remember at this point how much more expensive it was, but I always prefer UPS, so the only reason I wouldn't pick it if it was an option was if there 2 day shipping was $20 or more over the USPS Option.)



sakete said:


> That's why I use my own domain for email. Full control over everything. Yeah, only downside is that my emails sometimes end up in spam folders, even though I've setup SPF, DMARC, etc. But I like having control and the peace of mind that Google and Microsoft aren't datamining my emails.


Regarding the email, I also use my own Domain. Have 3 actually. But I like Exchange, I can't help it. I used to run my own internal Exchange Servers, I do still actually have one that I can fall back to, but I found the ease of the Cloud Servers too easy and inexpensive to pass up. Of course once you own your own domain you enter into contract with Microsoft, and they are expressly not allowed to Data mine your Email at that point. Doesn't mean they don't, I am sure they do, but I opt out of all of there "Features" just to make sure I am not consenting to any of the crap. After I turn off "Focused Inbox" I actually rather like my Email service. I am actually a Microsoft Partner, so I resell the services as well, have a lot of happy clients on it, I just hope they hold their end of the bargain and don't go diving into everyone's data. Its expected on Free products, as thats the cost, on payed products thats a big no no unless you are dumb enough to opt into it.


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> Also Off Topic...
> 
> 100000000000% Agree. I am stuck on this game man... I have been burrying my head in work, knocking out as much as I possibly can, as fast as I can, from 5am until about 3pm, depending on my schedule for the day, and then IMMEDIATELY Jumping onto CyberPunk! I LOVE THIS Fricking game. I also am exploiting the Soda Cans trick to get me as much money as possible since its so hard otherwise to get the kind of money you want in the game to get everything you want. So between farming Soda, and Sidequests and clearing out random punks on the street, I barely have cleared through the story. I barely met Mr Silverhand, and got my favorite weapon in the game from the Corpo Chick you have an encounter with at the No Tell Motel, lol. I love that weapon!!! Don't want to spoil it for anyone, but if you see it, you will know what I am talking about. Its funny as hell to beat up a big ass thug with it, lol!
> 
> For real, the Glitches really do suck. My game crashes at LEAST 3 times a 4 hour play session, that gets annoying. That and getting stuck in walls Sucks. But people constantly T-Posing and standing on air gets pretty funny, so I don't mind that so much.
> 
> I really do think they did an amazing job on this game though. Its just murdering my 3080! I can't wait for this block to get here!!!
> 
> 
> Regarding the email, I also use my own Domain. Have 3 actually. But I like Exchange, I can't help it. I used to run my own internal Exchange Servers, I do still actually have one that I can fall back to, but I found the ease of the Cloud Servers too easy and inexpensive to pass up. Of course once you own your own domain you enter into contract with Microsoft, and they are expressly not allowed to Data mine your Email at that point. Doesn't mean they don't, I am sure they do, but I opt out of all of there "Features" just to make sure I am not consenting to any of the crap. After I turn off "Focused Inbox" I actually rather like my Email service. I am actually a Microsoft Partner, so I resell the services as well, have a lot of happy clients on it, I just hope they hold their end of the bargain and don't go diving into everyone's data. Its expected on Free products, as thats the cost, on payed products thats a big no no unless you are dumb enough to opt into it.


Yeah, for email I used to run it on a Linux VPS, but that just became too much work to ensure it was well secured, updated, etc. Just time I didn't have, so I now have it outsourced to a small email hosting company. Still Linux based.

As a MS Partner, do you also sell Win 10 Enterprise licenses? I might need a couple some day, as I like that in Enterprise I can turn off all the phone home stuff Microsoft built in to Win 10.

For Cyberpunk, I need to look into that soda can thing. As yeah, eddies are hard to come by in that game and side quests typically only net you a couple grand. Takes a lot of grinding to get some eddies where you can buy stuff. I did find free legendary mantis blades though, so that's been fun  I otherwise haven't had any crashes, it's been very stable. Just some weird bugs, where I sometimes can't scroll between dialog options in conversation, or a info pop-up for e.g. a weapon is stuck on my screen, or I sometimes can't drive away on my motorcycle. Just kind of annoying (reloading a save resolves it), but nothing major, and will be probably be fixed at some point.


----------



## originxt

sakete said:


> Yeah, for email I used to run it on a Linux VPS, but that just became too much work to ensure it was well secured, updated, etc. Just time I didn't have, so I now have it outsourced to a small email hosting company. Still Linux based.
> 
> As a MS Partner, do you also sell Win 10 Enterprise licenses? I might need a couple some day, as I like that in Enterprise I can turn off all the phone home stuff Microsoft built in to Win 10.


There are some way to get ltsc on your computer without an official license. Keep in mind that Ray tracing options may not become available since they need the 2004 update, I'm still on 1809 on my main os since ltsc won't update to 2004 until year 2022 or maybe late 2021? I had to actually install 10 pro on a different drive in order to try the raytracing benchmark on 3dmark or wow shadowlands.


----------



## Shawnb99

Sweet reserved a KPE! Hurry up and make a block for it @Optimus WC


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> Sweet reserved a KPE! Hurry up and make a block for it @Optimus WC


SON OF A B&^*$ I freaking missed the Window! I freaking forgot!!!! GRRRRRRRR!!!!!!


----------



## sakete

originxt said:


> There are some way to get ltsc on your computer without an official license. Keep in mind that Ray tracing options may not become available since they need the 2004 update, I'm still on 1809 on my main os since ltsc won't update to 2004 until year 2022 or maybe late 2021? I had to actually install 10 pro on a different drive in order to try the raytracing benchmark on 3dmark or wow shadowlands.


Yeah, I currently am running Win 10 Enterprise on my main system for _free_ through a workaround I found. But next time I need a new install (say, on a laptop or something), I'd rather just buy a license. I otherwise am not on the LTSC, put defer feature updates for 200 days (let them iron out all the bugs first before I upgrade my OS). I don't need the latest and greatest in an OS right away, I prefer stability and reliability above all else in an OS.


----------



## Shawnb99

oreonutz said:


> SON OF A B&^*$ I freaking missed the Window! I freaking forgot!!!! GRRRRRRRR!!!!!!



Try now might still get one. Didn’t work for me till I switched from Chrome to Edge, likely lots haven’t figured it out yet. 

Don’t worry I’ll buy two and will only charge you double for one 😛


Auto Notify is still up for me so go try, should still be able to snag one


----------



## LiquidHaus

I reserved one as well but after more than an hour of being on the site iirc, they'll be long gone before they reach us.


----------



## Shawnb99

Ah so we can get on the list but doesn’t mean we’ll get one. Then yeah I doubt I’ll actually see one then since I got in at 35 past


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Yeah, for email I used to run it on a Linux VPS, but that just became too much work to ensure it was well secured, updated, etc. Just time I didn't have, so I now have it outsourced to a small email hosting company. Still Linux based.
> 
> As a MS Partner, do you also sell Win 10 Enterprise licenses? I might need a couple some day, as I like that in Enterprise I can turn off all the phone home stuff Microsoft built in to Win 10.
> 
> For Cyberpunk, I need to look into that soda can thing. As yeah, eddies are hard to come by in that game and side quests typically only net you a couple grand. Takes a lot of grinding to get some eddies where you can buy stuff. I did find free legendary mantis blades though, so that's been fun  I otherwise haven't had any crashes, it's been very stable. Just some weird bugs, where I sometimes can't scroll between dialog options in conversation, or a info pop-up for e.g. a weapon is stuck on my screen, or I sometimes can't drive away on my motorcycle. Just kind of annoying (reloading a save resolves it), but nothing major, and will be probably be fixed at some point.


Yup. I run an Enterprise License Myself. And @originxt Is correct, there are several ways to get Enterprise or LTSB without actually paying for a license. I can walk you through a pretty easy way in PM's if you like. (I prefer not to broadcast the easiest way as I don't want the loophole closed.)

But @originxt I am so confused on the Ray Tracing thing. I Run Windows 10 Enterprise, and although I can update it to 2004, all my builds, including this one, are connected to my own WSUS Server, so I control all my own updates. And I intentionally do not upgrade to the Next Feature Update until its 2 update Cycles old for stability reasons. So I am currently on 1903, and I have absolutely no problems at all running Ray Tracing. I was on the top 20 3dMark Port Royal for those with a 3950x and 3080 for about 2 weeks after launch until all the XOC Guys got their cards and started blowing all of us air cooled guys off the list. And I definitely am enjoying all of the Eye Candy for Cyberpunk. So I am wondering if this is just a LTSB thing, or if its 1903 that is needed for Ray Tracing and not 2004, because I definitely am not having issues with that.

Anyways, back to Cyberpunk...


Spoiler



To use the exploit I am talking about, know its time consuming but simple. Basically find a spot in the game where you can find a **** ton of Soda Vending Machines. And ONLY Soda, So basically if the Price for the Item is $10, then that is what you want. Only thing in the game that costs $10 are drinks (Other then I think some weapons, but as far as Consumables the only thing that costs $10 Eddies are drinks). Once you find the vending Machines Buy all the Soda's, just go around buying all of the ones you can from every vending machine until it sells out. Also keep in mind, for me at least (Not sure if its just a bug for me, or if everyone has this issue) the Original Ni-Cola Flavor doesn't allow you to break it down, so if that happens to you, just avoid the original flavor, and get everything else. Then Once all the Vending machines in the area are sold out. Save the Game, Then Load the game, then all the Vending Machines will be restocked, rinse and repeat. After about 30 mins of this, You will have a **** ton of soda.

The whole reason you want to do this is because the game only charges $10 Per Drink. But if you have the Mechanic Perk (Which you can get right away in the game), it gives you more components for each item you break down. So once you have that perk, when you break down any $10 Consumable, which are all of the drinks, they will give you 6 Common Components (Worth $5 each) and 3 Uncommon Components (Worth $8 each) per each Drink You Break down. That means each Drink that you buy and then Break down Nets you $44 in Profit. So when you spend 30 Mins doing nothing but getting drinks, if you are quick with it Like I have become, you end up with somewhere around 5000 cans of soda. 5000 x $44 is about $220,000 of profit, for about 30 to 40 minutes of constant farming. 

To get your payout, I find the best way to find one of those buy boxes in the game. Each Buy box only has $20,000 in it, but all you have to do is sell $20,000 worth of components, then go into the menu, skip 24 hours, then go back to the buy box, and it will have another $20,000, rinse and repeat until you either have all the cash you want or run out of components. Because Components are so useful for upgrading weapons and Armor, I tend to always keep at least 9000 or so of each on me. There is also a Junk Dealer under a bridge in Jig Jig Street that has plenty of the Higher Components you need for Lengendary and Iconic Items, so you can just sell to him, and then buy those components, then same thing skip 24 hours, then he will be restocked, until you have everything you want. Makes the game much more enjoyable, at least for me, when I don't have to worry so much about money. I can get the items and upgrades I want, and just enjoy the game. Usually I try to find exploits like this on my first play through, and then on my second, once the game gets more balanced, I try to play it without exploiting it, as that becomes part of the fun on the next playthrough, where the first is more just exploring the aspects of the game without worrying about the broken economy.



Anyway, Hope this helps!


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> Try now might still get one. Didn’t work for me till I switched from Chrome to Edge, likely lots haven’t figured it out yet.
> 
> Don’t worry I’ll buy two and will only charge you double for one 😛
> 
> 
> Auto Notify is still up for me so go try, should still be able to snag one


Appreciate it, I did, and got on the list. But now we will see if I am even able to buy one. TBH, I am fine if I don't get one, Can use the Money right now. Had a nice savings before Covid, but now thanks to family all being out of work, I am literally the only person in my family working, besides one of my sisters, so everyone is borrowing money from me, and yeah, savings is not looking pretty... So If I don't get one, I think I will be ok, just sad because I kind of really want it. After Temperature, Voltage is the biggest limiter, it would be awesome to be able to easily control it without Hardware Modding my FTW3. I considered it, but my Soldering is not the best, so would need a lot of practice before I try...


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Yeah, I currently am running Win 10 Enterprise on my main system for _free_ through a workaround I found. But next time I need a new install (say, on a laptop or something), I'd rather just buy a license. I otherwise am not on the LTSC, put defer feature updates for 200 days (let them iron out all the bugs first before I upgrade my OS). I don't need the latest and greatest in an OS right away, I prefer stability and reliability above all else in an OS.


Oh I don't know if I addressed it, but yes, I can resell you a key. Won't be a huge discount though, we get something like 15% usually. Depends on how many Keys we have sold in that Year, and this year I believe we have sold more than we do most years, but we are still one of the smallest partners I am sure.


----------



## originxt

oreonutz said:


> Yup. I run an Enterprise License Myself. And @originxt Is correct, there are several ways to get Enterprise or LTSB without actually paying for a license. I can walk you through a pretty easy way in PM's if you like. (I prefer not to broadcast the easiest way as I don't want the loophole closed.)
> 
> But @originxt I am so confused on the Ray Tracing thing. I Run Windows 10 Enterprise, and although I can update it to 2004, all my builds, including this one, are connected to my own WSUS Server, so I control all my own updates. And I intentionally do not upgrade to the Next Feature Update until its 2 update Cycles old for stability reasons. So I am currently on 1903, and I have absolutely no problems at all running Ray Tracing. I was on the top 20 3dMark Port Royal for those with a 3950x and 3080 for about 2 weeks after launch until all the XOC Guys got their cards and started blowing all of us air cooled guys off the list. And I definitely am enjoying all of the Eye Candy for Cyberpunk. So I am wondering if this is just a LTSB thing, or if its 1903 that is needed for Ray Tracing and not 2004, because I definitely am not having issues with that.


I meant 2004 for the directx ray tracing benchmark, not port royal. And yeah, it's a ltsc thing to be on 1809 since it's a longer cycle. I think raytracing was introduced in 1903 but I could be wrong.


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> Appreciate it, I did, and got on the list. But now we will see if I am even able to buy one. TBH, I am fine if I don't get one, Can use the Money right now. Had a nice savings before Covid, but now thanks to family all being out of work, I am literally the only person in my family working, besides one of my sisters, so everyone is borrowing money from me, and yeah, savings is not looking pretty... So If I don't get one, I think I will be ok, just sad because I kind of really want it. After Temperature, Voltage is the biggest limiter, it would be awesome to be able to easily control it without Hardware Modding my FTW3. I considered it, but my Soldering is not the best, so would need a lot of practice before I try...


This year tech upgrade definitely took bit of savings. This is even for me as i have sold lot of hardware this year.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> This year tech upgrade definitely took bit of savings. This is even for me as i have sold lot of hardware this year.


I've poured so much money into my build this year. Just so I can run Cyberpunk at 60-70fps  Might do one final upgrade, which is the 5950x, in a few months and then ride out the AM4 platform for a few years. Next upgrade after that will be AM5 (or AM6 if that's around then) or Intel if they're king again.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> I've poured so much money into my build this year. Just so I can run Cyberpunk at 60-70fps  Might do one final upgrade, which is the 5950x, in a few months and then ride out the AM4 platform for a few years. Next upgrade after that will be AM5 (or AM6 if that's around then) or Intel if they're king again.


I'm probably skipping Ryzen 6000/Alderlake and will jump back in 2022/2023 with New GPU (RDNA3/Lovelace) and second iteration of DDR5 Chipsets. I am tempted to get an next gen Optane/Micron 3d X Point Drive somepoint before then if they become affordable.

I just have GPU block and two radiators left to order. 5950X and custom sleeved cables paid for but just waiting for them to come.


----------



## asdf893

Optimus WC said:


> We're getting your copper block ready, you should receive shipping notice tomorrow. Copper actually requires a separate process than nickel, so as we fulfill orders, it won't be exactly on time who gets what. Copper needs to stay free from oxidization and contaminates, so we want to make sure we send out perfect blocks.
> 
> We don't think we'll open up switching to copper for everyone else who ordered, unless they email us directly. We're trying to minimize the delays.


Are you still shipping my copper block today?


----------



## Shawnb99

I’m not looking forward to how much custom cables are going to run me. Likely looking at $500+ for those.


----------



## originxt

Shawnb99 said:


> I’m not looking forward to how much custom cables are going to run me. Likely looking at $500+ for those.


Oh my, further and further down the rabbit hole lol.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> I’m not looking forward to how much custom cables are going to run me. Likely looking at $500+ for those.


Those custom cables will make your system run faster though. Just like RGB fans.


----------



## Shawnb99

originxt said:


> Oh my, further and further down the rabbit hole lol.


It’s a deep deep hole when you need a second PSU just for the WC gear.


----------



## WayWayUp

I reserved the kingpin but not sure it will actually beat my shunted ftw3. I can already score 15,143 on air with temps in the 60s. With this block on an extremely good custom loop with open air case im sure i will push 15,500+ fairly easily 

I'll test it out at least and play around with the classified tool before selling it most likely. Maybe have some fun with sli.
$2000 gpu will look absolutely silly if nvidia drops a 3080ti next month


----------



## LiquidHaus

WayWayUp said:


> $2000 gpu will look absolutely silly if nvidia drops a 3080ti next month


The 3090 will still be the higher spec'd card vs the 3080ti. I also don't believe for a second that EVGA would invest in manufacturing a non top spec tier card. EVGA and Nvidia have always had a very close relationship.


----------



## Zurv

WayWayUp said:


> I reserved the kingpin but not sure it will actually beat my shunted ftw3. I can already score 15,143 on air with temps in the 60s. With this block on an extremely good custom loop with open air case im sure i will push 15,500+ fairly easily
> 
> I'll test it out at least and play around with the classified tool before selling it most likely. Maybe have some fun with sli.
> $2000 gpu will look absolutely silly if nvidia drops a 3080ti next month


There will be no fun with SLI. Sadly 
I have two 3090 FEs in my desktop system (the ftw3 is connected to the TV PC) and, other than benchmarks... hasnt' been used. booo.. cyberpunk would have been perfect for it 
having it only be for dx12 (or vulcan) hurts.









(bitspower block, not optimus)


----------



## atzemis

Forgive me if this has been discussed previously (wasn't able to find it if so), but would I be correct in thinking that the backplate will only be useful on a 3090, as on the 3080 the RAM is all on the front of the card?


----------



## Section31

atzemis said:


> Forgive me if this has been discussed previously (wasn't able to find it if so), but would I be correct in thinking that the backplate will only be useful on a 3090, as on the 3080 the RAM is all on the front of the card?


For 3080TI/3090, you probably want the thick backplate but for 3080 just get the thin backplate.


----------



## Wihglah

sakete said:


> Those custom cables will make your system run faster though. Just like RGB fans.


Can confirm.


----------



## atzemis

Section31 said:


> For 3080TI/3090, you probably want the thick backplate but for 3080 just get the thin backplate.


Here's to hoping that the 3080 Ti uses the same board layout.


----------



## oreonutz

originxt said:


> I meant 2004 for the directx ray tracing benchmark, not port royal. And yeah, it's a ltsc thing to be on 1809 since it's a longer cycle. I think raytracing was introduced in 1903 but I could be wrong.


My bad, I assumed you meant any form of Direct X Ray Tracing, so I just mentioned running that Benchmark as an example of being able to use Ray Tracing even though I don't have 2004. And Yeah, I think it is 1903 that you need to use Ray Tracing, So as long as you get on that, you will be good. They don't have a LTSC Branch for 1903?



Section31 said:


> This year tech upgrade definitely took bit of savings. This is even for me as i have sold lot of hardware this year.





sakete said:


> I've poured so much money into my build this year. Just so I can run Cyberpunk at 60-70fps  Might do one final upgrade, which is the 5950x, in a few months and then ride out the AM4 platform for a few years. Next upgrade after that will be AM5 (or AM6 if that's around then) or Intel if they're king again.


I feel your guys' pain man. These past few years I have spent easily 10 Times the Capital on my PC's and Tech, then I have on my Car/House/Clothes. Its an addiction. One that I love to indulge, and one that I am lucky enough to have been able to afford, even through the pandemic. Its just fun for me. Whats funny though is I end up buying stuff that I really want, and then when it arrives, I don't even open it for months until I am finally ready to start using it. 

For instance, I Preordered a Samsung 980 Pro before Launch, and its Still sitting in its package. I ordered a bunch of Radiators and Fittings back in April for a huge External Cooling Project I am planning, all of that is still sitting in its shipping boxes because I haven't found the time to get around to it. Hell, I even pestered @Shawnb99 for a bunch of his old WC Gear that he had been talking about selling for a while, until one day he finally hit me up with a few deals I just couldn't pass up, some time in April I believe, and I purchased a bunch. It shipped from Canada, and it is still sitting in the same box Shawn Shipped it in, on the same shelf I placed it upon arrival. I think I easily have around $5000 In unopened WC Gear I purchased this year alone... That's the sad part of my addiction! However, I have to say, that even though it is a compulsion, I rarely buy things that I don't even up using. I fricking love it when I go to do finally do a project, and then hit a snag where I need something that I hadn't previously considered, only to dig through my WC Room in the house to find that I had exactly what I needed, happens so often for me now, lol. Need an extra Aquaero for a Client build, no problem got a stock of 12, need a Double 90 Rotary to connect at a weird angle, no problem got 2 dozen, Need to Mount a Rad at a 90 Degree Angle to the fan mount, no Problem got 8 Brackets to do just that, lol. So I might not always use it right away, but in the end It ends up becoming useful... eventually, lol.

Definitely will not be happening with my Optimus Block though, the second that baby arrives its time to install it!!!



sakete said:


> Those custom cables will make your system run faster though. Just like RGB fans.


Of Course man, everyone knows that! The More RGB Fans you have, the Faster your Rig Runs! The more Custom Cables you have, the more self esteem your build has, the better its mental heath, hence the more horsepower you achieve. Its simple science man! 🤣🤣🤣

Oh also. I detailed the whole Cyberpunk Soda Can Money Exploit for you in my previous post to you, I just realized that it was probably really easy to miss. I wrote so damn much that I decided to put it behind a spoiler, and with the new site, the new Spoilers Button Blends in so well with the page, that you might not even notice its there. So if you want to know the trick to getting money, you can either google it, or read my 4 paragraphs that will explain it to you in detail. It was in the spoiler in the following post:








Optimus Waterblock


HI, I got an email too lol ftw3 blocks are shipping goodie I didn't even order one hope it gets here before xmas 😎




www.overclock.net







WayWayUp said:


> I reserved the kingpin but not sure it will actually beat my shunted ftw3. I can already score 15,143 on air with temps in the 60s. With this block on an extremely good custom loop with open air case im sure i will push 15,500+ fairly easily
> 
> I'll test it out at least and play around with the classified tool before selling it most likely. Maybe have some fun with sli.
> $2000 gpu will look absolutely silly if nvidia drops a 3080ti next month


So for me anyway, the entire draw of the Kingpin card is the Classified tool, or more specifically the mod included on the card that gives you 100% control over the voltage. With Shunt Mods on our FTW3 and the "XOC" 450w vBios, after temperature, the Biggest limitation by far is Voltage. Unfortunately even with a Shunt mod, we can not apply more than 1.1v, and so we even once the Temperature is controlled with our blocks, what will be stopping us from pushing the cards is the hard Voltage Limit. 

That is, for me anyway, the entire reason for buying the Kingpin. Included in the card out of the box is the Mod that allows you completely control your voltage, no need to get out the soldering iron and do some semi complex mods. With the Strix cards its much easier because they are using Digital VRMs, so all you have to do is wire up the ElmorLabs EVC2 to the voltage control points on the PCB, you don't even have to solder you can just use Jumper Wires, and you are off to the races. 

But with the FTW3 cards its all analog VRM, so that means actually hard modding the card at multiple points to get the voltage control needed to really push the card. If you aren't great at soldering, its not hard to mess up your $900 3080 or $1800 3090, when you can spend just a few bucks to get that control direct from EVGA with the Kingpin. Thats what I want it for anyway. (Of course you could always get the card, and have it turn out that the core on it was just no where near as well binned as your FTW3 due to silicon Lottery, and so you might have the ability to fully control the card, but still not do better than your FTW3 if your FTW3 core and/or Memory is just that much better. Though I'd like to believe that EVGA further binned the Kingpin Cards to ensure that you are getting the best silicon they have offer.)



atzemis said:


> Forgive me if this has been discussed previously (wasn't able to find it if so), but would I be correct in thinking that the backplate will only be useful on a 3090, as on the 3080 the RAM is all on the front of the card?


For the most part, yes. However, worth Considering, although I only have a 3080, and EVGA Didn't bother to actually connect the back of the PCB to the Stock Backplate, that Backplate Gets HOT AS HELL just to the touch, even when the card has been running idle for hours. It gets ESPECIALLY HOT when running the card. One of the bigger reasons for this is that the Memory On the card is Flip Chip, which means the silicon in the Memory Modules is actually closer to the PCB then it is to the Cooling element, which ends up heating up the PCB even more, including the backside of the PCB. And if that heat isn't properly cooled, then it can end up having a snowballed effect where it keeps the Memory Temperatures heating themselves up even more. 

However, With the backside of the PCB properly connected to backplate with Thermal pads, especially when placing the thermal pads directly behind the Memory, You end up sinking a lot of that heat into the backplate, and if it is a sufficient backplate, and there is at least some airflow going over the backplate, then it actually will do a great job at dropping your Memory Temperatures, as long as the actual memory is being properly cooled as well. 

Right now on air, Memory Temps are the hardest for me to control on my 3080. On the Module that gets the hottest, during a 1 hour gaming session I see GDDR Temps reaching the high 80's, which can hurt Memory stability on the card if you are really pushing your Memory OC. This is where that nice beefy backplate will come in handy. 

But the reality is, if you are just running a 3080, and you are not trying to push your Memory to the bleeding edge, then even the high 80's is within normal operating Spec of GDDR6, and having the beefy backplate likely won't make a difference, especially considering the front cooling elements of the block are so effective.


----------



## Shawnb99

oreonutz said:


> I feel your guys' pain man. These past few years I have spent easily 10 Times the Capital on my PC's and Tech, then I have on my Car/House/Clothes. Its an addiction. One that I love to indulge, and one that I am lucky enough to have been able to afford, even through the pandemic. Its just fun for me. Whats funny though is I end up buying stuff that I really want, and then when it arrives, I don't even open it for months until I am finally ready to start using it.
> 
> For instance, I Preordered a Samsung 980 Pro before Launch, and its Still sitting in its package. I ordered a bunch of Radiators and Fittings back in April for a huge External Cooling Project I am planning, all of that is still sitting in its shipping boxes because I haven't found the time to get around to it. Hell, I even pestered @Shawnb99 for a bunch of his old WC Gear that he had been talking about selling for a while, until one day he finally hit me up with a few deals I just couldn't pass up, some time in April I believe, and I purchased a bunch. It shipped from Canada, and it is still sitting in the same box Shawn Shipped it in, on the same shelf I placed it upon arrival. I think I easily have around $5000 In unopened WC Gear I purchased this year alone... That's the sad part of my addiction! However, I have to say, that even though it is a compulsion, I rarely buy things that I don't even up using. I fricking love it when I go to do finally do a project, and then hit a snag where I need something that I hadn't previously considered, only to dig through my WC Room in the house to find that I had exactly what I needed, happens so often for me now, lol. Need an extra Aquaero for a Client build, no problem got a stock of 12, need a Double 90 Rotary to connect at a weird angle, no problem got 2 dozen, Need to Mount a Rad at a 90 Degree Angle to the fan mount, no Problem got 8 Brackets to do just that, lol. So I might not always use it right away, but in the end It ends up becoming useful... eventually, lol.
> 
> Definitely will not be happening with my Optimus Block though, the second that baby arrives its time to install it!!!



I’ll have more for you soon 😛 
Will be selling a pair of MCP35X2’s with radiators, pair of Aquails 450XT’s reservoirs, bunch of AC gear, splitty9’s, Octo’s, Quado’s and hubby7’s, even an Aquero LT maybe, and then whole bunch of extra radiators, think I’m up to 12 to sell now, Heatkiller IV block, pair of EK supremacy’s and a few more things I’m sure I’m forgetting.


Wait did you say stack of 12 Aquero??? Damn I thought I was bad


----------



## asdf893

WayWayUp said:


> I reserved the kingpin but not sure it will actually beat my shunted ftw3. I can already score 15,143 on air with temps in the 60s. With this block on an extremely good custom loop with open air case im sure i will push 15,500+ fairly easily
> 
> I'll test it out at least and play around with the classified tool before selling it most likely. Maybe have some fun with sli.
> $2000 gpu will look absolutely silly if nvidia drops a 3080ti next month


my aircooled ftw3 performs better than my 3090 KPE right now...


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> I’ll have more for you soon 😛
> Will be selling a pair of MCP35X2’s with radiators, pair of Aquails 450XT’s reservoirs, bunch of AC gear, splitty9’s, Octo’s, Quado’s and hubby7’s, even an Aquero LT maybe, and then whole bunch of extra radiators, think I’m up to 12 to sell now, Heatkiller IV block, pair of EK supremacy’s and a few more things I’m sure I’m forgetting.
> 
> 
> Wait did you say stack of 12 Aquero??? Damn I thought I was bad


LOL! Yup. I know its bad. Not counting the ones already in builds, I have 7 Aquaero 6 XT's, and 5 Aquaero 6 LT's. I mainly have so many because I buy them intending to use them for Client Builds, but then end up being able to go with a Quadro instead, something I have Quite the excess of as well. Its gotten so bad that I have been considering an Inventory system just to keep track of everything I have in stock.

Whats funny is, out of what you listed, What I want most are at least 1 Aquaero, those things don't go bad, and I could actually use another 6 LT, lol. Then Your Hubby7's and Splitty9's, I already have too many Octo's (_I meant *Quadro's*, still haven't been able to get my hands on an Octo yet_) I use them a lot in builds, but still have around 11 or so, so should be good on those for at least the next several months. I also am good on Radiators for now, But at least One Pair of MCP35X2 and 1x Aquails 450XT I think I may be game for. Just shoot me a message when you are ready to sell. I won't pester you this time, so take your time, when you are ready, let me know and I will get you the Cash, my address is the same as before, lol.


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> LOL! Yup. I know its bad. Not counting the ones already in builds, I have 7 Aquaero 6 XT's, and 5 Aquaero 6 LT's. I mainly have so many because I buy them intending to use them for Client Builds, but then end up being able to go with a Quadro instead, something I have Quite the excess of as well. Its gotten so bad that I have been considering an Inventory system just to keep track of everything I have in stock.
> 
> Whats funny is, out of what you listed, What I want most are at least 1 Aquaero, those things don't go bad, and I could actually use another 6 LT, lol. Then Your Hubby7's and Splitty9's, I already have too many Octo's (_I meant *Quadro's*, still haven't been able to get my hands on an Octo yet_) I use them a lot in builds, but still have around 11 or so, so should be good on those for at least the next several months. I also am good on Radiators for now, But at least One Pair of MCP35X2 and 1x Aquails 450XT I think I may be game for. Just shoot me a message when you are ready to sell. I won't pester you this time, so take your time, when you are ready, let me know and I will get you the Cash, my address is the same as before, lol.


It takes time to clean out excess waterparts lol. I have far less than you two.


----------



## Kashtan

Instead message about my coldplate, Optimus again send at my email info about waterblocks for Amper. Anyway, i purchase Koolance 400 waterblock, as I realized that this year I will not receive my coldplate from Optimus.


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> Oh also. I detailed the whole Cyberpunk Soda Can Money Exploit for you in my previous post to you, I just realized that it was probably really easy to miss. I wrote so damn much that I decided to put it behind a spoiler, and with the new site, the new Spoilers Button Blends in so well with the page, that you might not even notice its there. So if you want to know the trick to getting money, you can either google it, or read my 4 paragraphs that will explain it to you in detail. It was in the spoiler in the following post:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimus Waterblock
> 
> 
> HI, I got an email too lol ftw3 blocks are shipping goodie I didn't even order one hope it gets here before xmas 😎
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net


Yeah, I did see that. Thanks again! That's some serious grinding to get some eddies, but beats doing a bunch of side quests. I'm currently focusing on a stealthy samurai hacker build. There is supposed to be some upgrade somewhere that will slow down time which will of course be great for slashing up enemies with mantis blades, but haven't found it yet.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> It takes time to clean out excess waterparts lol. I have far less than you two.


I did my first ever watercooled build this year, and I already have a few excess waterparts, haha. Granted, I did order a few extra fittings for everything, in case I missed something in the planning stage.


----------



## WayWayUp

oreonutz said:


> But with the FTW3 cards its all analog VRM, so that means actually hard modding the card at multiple points to get the voltage control needed to really push the card. If you aren't great at soldering, its not hard to mess up your $900 3080 or $1800 3090, when you can spend just a few bucks to get that control direct from EVGA with the Kingpin. Thats what I want it for anyway. (Of course you could always get the card, and have it turn out that the core on it was just no where near as well binned as your FTW3 due to silicon Lottery, and so you might have the ability to fully control the card, but still not do better than your FTW3 if your FTW3 core and/or Memory is just that much better. Though I'd like to believe that EVGA further binned the Kingpin Cards to ensure that you are getting the best silicon they have offer.)


I'm with you on everything you wrote. I always planned to get the kingpin but i just simply got lucky with my ftw3 and it seems silicon quality trumps everything else this generation.
back in the day the kingpin cards used to be properly binned.
This gen though (and to a smaller extent last gen) evga is hardly binning the cards! it just needs to meet a specific threshold which isnt too stringent. 
I've been comparing my 3dmark scores on air to the 360mm hybrid kingpins on the Evga forums and I'm in line or outright beating them all unless they are using cold air to bring the water temp down

honestly disappointing EVGA is making the kingpin almost into a normal sku. it used to be a specialty card (the same way the msi lighting was back in the day) but now they are treating it as a normal flagship 

If they came out with properly binned cards i would be a buyer even at a higher price point


----------



## Shawnb99

Seems I’m #89 in line or so for a KPE so hopefully by the time my number is called Optimus will have a block out. They claim they are still binned but I guess since the card is at it’s breaking point already binning doesn’t give you that much of an edge this time around. For $200 more it was a no brainer to grab one over a FTW.


----------



## WayWayUp

yeah if you dont have s 3090 already then at this price point it's a no brainer.

I'm curious to see how their hydrocopper KPE will perform. They are only charging a $50 premium for it. So if Optimus is very slow with it's release and still charge the $400 then it could turn into a really bad value


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Yeah, I did see that. Thanks again! That's some serious grinding to get some eddies, but beats doing a bunch of side quests. I'm currently focusing on a stealthy samurai hacker build. There is supposed to be some upgrade somewhere that will slow down time which will of course be great for slashing up enemies with mantis blades, but haven't found it yet.


The thing is, you will get eddies for the side quests, but you quickly find that its no where near the type of eddies that you are going to want to be able to buy all the stuff in the game you want. So just dedicating 30 mins to an hour on the constant farming of Soda (Especially because they have no weight, so you literally can carry 10,000,000 and still not have a weight penalty) will go a LONG WAY to making your playthrough more enjoyable. I think I spent about a total of 2 hours on it, and so far I am finding that was more than enough to get me where I want to be with cash to spare, but to be able to afford the Cyberware and Mods I wants, as well as cars, and those small things that make it a little bit more enjoyable. Outside of that, now when ever I cross a Soda machine, I just loot it real quick for everything it has, and then move on, and just doing that, when I see a machine, has been enough to keep my cash flush in the game. (Wish there was a hack like that for real life, lol)

You an slow down time. It is a Cyberware product, I believe for the nervous system. I believe most the Ripper Docs carry them. Most of them are locked behind either Street Credit Level's or Athletic Ability Levels. I forget what the Cyberware is called, but it just click the Nervous system (I think) next time you are at a ripper doc and read the perks of the different Cyberware you can install there, and you will find a few that allow you to slow down time on command, and cool stuff like being able to slow down time when you slide while aiming, or dodge while Aiming. Also one that slows down time when an enemy notices you. Right now because of my lower athletic level, I was only able to get the ones where it slows down time for a moment when dodging and sliding while aiming, and when an ememy notices you, and they are Both EXTREMELY Awesome to have. I specifically like the latter because I don't have to pay as much attention to the icon above everyones head, if time slows down out of no where I know someone noticed me and I better hide before they transistion into the combat state.



WayWayUp said:


> I'm with you on everything you wrote. I always planned to get the kingpin but i just simply got lucky with my ftw3 and it seems silicon quality trumps everything else this generation.
> back in the day the kingpin cards used to be properly binned.
> This gen though (and to a smaller extent last gen) evga is hardly binning the cards! it just needs to meet a specific threshold which isnt too stringent.
> I've been comparing my 3dmark scores on air to the 360mm hybrid kingpins on the Evga forums and I'm in line or outright beating them all unless they are using cold air to bring the water temp down
> 
> honestly disappointing EVGA is making the kingpin almost into a normal sku. it used to be a specialty card (the same way the msi lighting was back in the day) but now they are treating it as a normal flagship
> 
> If they came out with properly binned cards i would be a buyer even at a higher price point


Couldn't agree more. That is so awesome you lucked out with such a damn good Silicon Card. At first I was impressed by mine, and then I saw the numbers others were getting, and realized that I didn't get as lucky as I first thought, but I still am on the average end, rather than on the lower end like I was with my Pascal card, so at least there is that, lol!


----------



## Zurv

Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Claus

















(also holy cow it is heavy. Lucky this is going in to a HTPC and the card will be vertical.)


----------



## Shawnb99

WayWayUp said:


> yeah if you dont have s 3090 already then at this price point it's a no brainer.
> 
> I'm curious to see how their hydrocopper KPE will perform. They are only charging a $50 premium for it. So if Optimus is very slow with it's release and still charge the $400 then it could turn into a really bad value


$50 for the block by itself or that the Hydro model will be $2050? Will be interesting seeing what they price the block alone at compared to the premium Optimus will charge.


----------



## WayWayUp

well they released the 3090 ftw3 hybrid for 1800 and the hydrocopper for 1850
so right now only a $50 premium over the air version 

The kingping hybrid is $2000 so im expecting the hydro to be 2050


----------



## Shawnb99

ah nice. Hopefully that means the block alone won't be that expensive


----------



## Optimus WC

Zurv said:


> Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Claus
> View attachment 2469854
> 
> View attachment 2469855
> 
> 
> (also holy cow it is heavy. Lucky this is going in to a HTPC and the card will be vertical.)


Awesome! Instructions coming shortly, let me know if you have any questions on how to put it together.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Shawnb99 said:


> Seems I’m #89 in line or so for a KPE so hopefully by the time my number is called Optimus will have a block out. They claim they are still binned but I guess since the card is at it’s breaking point already binning doesn’t give you that much of an edge this time around. For $200 more it was a no brainer to grab one over a FTW.


How do you know you're #89?


----------



## Shawnb99

LiquidHaus said:


> How do you know you're #89?


Unofficially.



EVGA GeForce RTX 3090 K|NGP|N - Unofficial Auto-Notify Confirmation List


----------



## LiquidHaus

Shawnb99 said:


> Unofficially.
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA GeForce RTX 3090 K|NGP|N - Unofficial Auto-Notify Confirmation List


Ah,

Okay then I'd be # 97 if that's somewhat accurate lol


----------



## Zurv

Optimus WC said:


> Awesome! Instructions coming shortly, let me know if you have any questions on how to put it together.


kinda.. what do i do with.. whatever the hell is on the back of the card? It is powered. likely some LED thing.
Should i pull it off?
It is higher than everything else on the back of the card. Is that a problem if i leave it there? just squishy it more there? (cut the pads to make room for it?)


----------



## Optimus WC

Zurv said:


> kinda.. what do i do with.. whatever the hell is on the back of the card? It is powered. likely some LED thing.
> Should i pull it off?
> It is higher than everything else on the back of the card. Is that a problem if i leave it there? just squishy it more there? (cut the pads to make room for it?)


That's the RGBs. The backplate has pockets for it, no need to take it off. The pad is an electrical insulator, it can even stay plugged in.

Of course, if you leave it plugged in, the LEDs will light up, but they can't be seen through the backplate.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Optimus WC said:


> That's the RGBs. The backplate has pockets for it, no need to take it off. The pad is an electrical insulator, it can even stay plugged in.
> 
> Of course, if you leave it plugged in, the LEDs will light up, but they can't be seen through the backplate.


I'm thinking...tutorial video on my YT channel.


----------



## ThrashZone

Optimus WC said:


> Awesome! Instructions coming shortly, let me know if you have any questions on how to put it together.


Hi,
Sadly that water block has milling marks all over it.
Is this some sort of new design process now ?


----------



## LiquidHaus

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Sadly that water block has milling marks all over it.
> Is this some sort of new design process now ?


looks like moiré to me.


----------



## Section31

Zurv said:


> Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Claus
> View attachment 2469854
> 
> View attachment 2469855
> 
> 
> (also holy cow it is heavy. Lucky this is going in to a HTPC and the card will be vertical.)


That's one nice looking block. Tell how us it performs


----------



## Optimus WC

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Sadly that water block has milling marks all over it.
> Is this some sort of new design process now ?
> View attachment 2469870


The fins have some weird moire in the photo. The mid plates are shiny nickel plating, like our cold plates, but not like our satin nickel blocks. It needs to be shiny because there are a number of surface areas that need best contact for thermal pads. With this nickel, it shows everything, so you will see the machining paths in the fluid channels. Also our acrylic is perfectly clear, so you also see everything. It's basically impossible to make the inside of the fluid paths mirror finished, other than slapping so much bad chrome-nickel on there it hides everything. In person, the blocks are insanely built and high quality, easily the best thing we've made so far


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Acrylic is and isn't the problem lol 
It being so clear just shows the bit path clearer 
But yeah disappointing to my eyes to see all of the bit paths.


----------



## dilster97

Is it still possible to get backplates for the Optimus Foundation AM4 blocks that didn't have them originally?


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Acrylic is and isn't the problem lol
> It being so clear just shows the bit path clearer
> But yeah disappointing to my eyes to see all of the bit paths.


Hi, 

Seriously? That thing looks fricking awesome! 

I really think its about time we see what a Grand Master Thrash Star Block would look like. These Optimus blocks are some of the best I have seen, the way you talk, the ones you would make would absolutely blow me away! lol



Zurv said:


> Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Claus
> View attachment 2469854
> 
> View attachment 2469855
> 
> 
> (also holy cow it is heavy. Lucky this is going in to a HTPC and the card will be vertical.)



Dude! I can't wait for Santa to Visit me tomorrow!!! So far its still on Track. Do you mind if I steal those photos and throw them up on my twitter? I have a few people on there who would love to see them!


----------



## Optimus WC

dilster97 said:


> Is it still possible to get backplates for the Optimus Foundation AM4 blocks that didn't have them originally?


We can send you new mounting hardware, the backplates themselves are included with the AM4 motherboards.


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> We can send you new mounting hardware, the backplates themselves are included with the AM4 motherboards.


Sorry to bother you. You are using the AM4 Backplates now instead of mounting direct without it? If so, if its not too much trouble, I would also like the new Hardware for that. Been using EK Hardware on mine, and I am not so sure I have been getting the best contact. (My Test Bench is setup as you intended with your mounting hardware, but I was too lazy to switch out my Test Rig Mounting hard ware so I just reused the EK Stuff because it happened to work, would love to swap that out with the new Hardware and see if there is a difference.

Not the end of the world if you don't have the time, but if you do, would love a set!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
They may perform well but all those bit paths just show corners were cut to get out a product.

Optimus nickel plating has never been shinny so that is not what I was referring too.
Surfaces were usually flat and nickel was at least flat looking besides the sand blasting effect.


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> We can send you new mounting hardware, the backplates themselves are included with the AM4 motherboards.


Hey Optimus, Is that KPX Paste I see included with the Block???


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> They may perform well but all those bit paths just show corners were cut to get out a product.
> 
> Optimus nickel plating has never been shinny so that is not what I was referring too.
> Surfaces were usually flat and nickel was at least flat looking besides the sand blasting effect.


Hi,

I am not a manufacturing genius, but I have paid attention to people when talking about machining, and I have learned that is not always the case. So in your eyes, if it has machining marks, corners were cut? End of story, that simple?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Those milling marks sure aren't on their website images
Maybe they should use a real sample instead of renders so people know what to expect for 400.us


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Those milling marks sure aren't on their website images
> Maybe they should use a real sample instead of renders so people know what to expect for 400.us
> View attachment 2469877


Hi,

No they are not. But I think its obvious that they were renders, and I don't think anyone expects them to put milling in their renders either. Is it your position that the milling Marks will affect performance? Or is more that you think milling marks make it look unattractive, and therefore not worth the $400? Just trying to understand your position here. I can think of plenty of other products out there with some variations of these same marks, and from what I understand, its not always desirable to clean them up. But again, I am not a machinist, so am asking to be schooled here.


----------



## LiquidHaus

ThrashZone quick to talk smack but won't show any of his own personal work. Surprise. I can be a keyboard machinist as well.


----------



## Zurv

Optimus WC said:


> Awesome! Instructions coming shortly, let me know if you have any questions on how to put it together.


ugh.. so many screws and different sized.
Can you please send me directions ASAP. I'm at the point to put the screws in..

also.. the pads kinda suck. I've used poly before.. but almost all broke when placing them down. Extra would have been nice (which i understand why there isn't as poly is costly.) Lucky i had extra pads.


----------



## WayWayUp

looks good to me. i would just be happy to have the damn thing been waiting for so long


----------



## ThrashZone

oreonutz said:


> Hi,
> 
> No they are not. But I think its obvious that they were renders, and I don't think anyone expects them to put milling in their renders either. Is it your position that the milling Marks will affect performance? Or is more that you think milling marks make it look unattractive, and therefore not worth the $400? Just trying to understand your position here. I can think of plenty of other products out there with some variations of these same marks, and from what I understand, its not always desirable to clean them up. But again, I am not a machinist, so am asking to be schooled here.


Hi,
Milling wise you'd hope after bit paths were created the next operation is to smooth them out before nickel plating
This didn't happen so of course bit path show up after nickel plated and you'd see them not nickel plated.



Optimus WC said:


> The fins have some weird moire in the photo. The mid plates are shiny nickel plating, like our cold plates, but not like our satin nickel blocks. It needs to be shiny because there are a number of surface areas that need best contact for thermal pads. *With this nickel, it shows everything, so you will see the machining paths in the fluid channels.* Also our acrylic is perfectly clear, so you also see everything. It's basically impossible to make the inside of the fluid paths mirror finished, other than slapping so much bad chrome-nickel on there it hides everything. In person, the blocks are insanely built and high quality, easily the best thing we've made so far


----------



## ThrashZone

................... double


----------



## WayWayUp

Zurv said:


> ugh.. so many screws and different sized.
> Can you please send me directions ASAP. I'm at the point to put the screws in..
> 
> also.. the pads kinda suck. I've used poly before.. but almost all broke when placing them down. Extra would have been nice (which i understand why there isn't as poly is costly.) Lucky i had extra pads.


thats kinda the nature of fuji unfortunetly
Thankfully i have 1.5mm and 0.5mm thermalright for a rainy day


----------



## Zurv

_sigh_
just sitting here with 11 holes.. and 11 screws of two different sizes.
(and 11 really short screws)

where do these go?!?

EDIT: ok, the black plate connects to the PCB first - thus the small screws.
But connecting the front of block with the 11 other screws. I'm not clear which size screw goes with what holes.
There are 5 longer ones. If it was 4, i would assume those go around the GPU.. but there are 5.
Also, not real contact with the pads on the block with the PCB.. i hope that happens with pressure (but it shouldn't... and taking the block apart will rip the poly)

the non-squishy nature of poly is one of their downsides (but likely the reason why they conduct heat so well.)

EDIT2: i just started with the holes that the small ones had contact with.
It seems like the bottom part of the card (bottom being the PCI-E) that is where the smaller (of the longer screws) go.
that confuses me a bit as the block and the PCB are flat.. so the screw should be the same for the top and bottom....


----------



## asdf893

Shawnb99 said:


> Seems I’m #89 in line or so for a KPE so hopefully by the time my number is called Optimus will have a block out. They claim they are still binned but I guess since the card is at it’s breaking point already binning doesn’t give you that much of an edge this time around. For $200 more it was a no brainer to grab one over a FTW.


My KPE performs worse across the board than my aircooled FTW3 Ultra. It's possible this is a growing pain with firmware and/or silicon lottery in both directions but it could also be the reality of binning ampere chips.


----------



## Optimus WC

Zurv said:


> _sigh_
> just sitting here with 11 holes.. and 11 screws of two different sizes.
> (and 11 really short screws)
> 
> where do these go?!?
> 
> EDIT: ok, the black plate connects to the PCB first - thus the small screws.
> But connecting the front of block with the 11 other screws. I'm not clear which size screw goes with what holes.
> There are 5 longer ones. If it was 4, i would assume those go around the GPU.. but there are 5.
> Also, not real contact with the pads on the block with the PCB.. i hope that happens with pressure (but it shouldn't... and taking the block apart will rip the poly)
> 
> the non-squishy nature of poly is one of their downsides (but likely the reason why they conduct heat so well.)
> 
> EDIT2: i just started with the holes that the small ones had contact with.
> It seems like the bottom part of the card (bottom being the PCI-E) that is where the smaller (of the longer screws) go.
> that confuses me a bit as the block and the PCB are flat.. so the screw should be the same for the top and bottom....


Hey Zurv!

Sorry about that, yes, you have it right: 
-the small button head connect the PCB to backplate first.
-The torx then go through the backplate to attach the waterblock.
-6x 12mm torx are along the bottom of the pcb by the pcie. 
-5x 16mm torx are used along the top.


----------



## originxt

asdf893 said:


> My KPE performs worse across the board than my aircooled FTW3 Ultra. It's possible this is a growing pain with firmware and/or silicon lottery in both directions but it could also be the reality of binning ampere chips.


I think availability might also be an issue. I think they should have delayed kp release until they had more availability of silicon to get chances at higher bins. As it is right now, there can't be enough chips to really cherry pick from. I'm assuming as long as it's on the higher end of tier 2 and up, it's probably a kp card. You might have just gotten a good chip they might have added as a kp card.

In terms of machine vs flat surface gpu blocks, I personally like the visual of the machined blocks. I think a block like this would be kind of dull with a flat, perfect surface. I think the gn video showing the copper block basically showed how the end product would have looked minus the backplate, which Optimus stated previously would be finned. I think if it's only an aesthetics thing, it's fine. If it's does impact performance in a meaningful way, then it definitely should be something looked at, especially with the price premium. But... I'm assuming Optimus has done their own testing and found the differences negligible or insignificant based on machine hours/time/cost.


----------



## Zurv

more of a pain that it should have been (directions really should have been ready)

but .. p0rn


----------



## asdf893

Zurv said:


> more of a pain that it should have been (directions really should have been ready)
> 
> but .. p0rn
> View attachment 2469901
> 
> View attachment 2469902
> 
> View attachment 2469903


HNG. And limited edition RGB edition, nice.


----------



## sok0

When are the AM4 Foundation blocks going to be back in stock?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Zurv said:


> more of a pain that it should have been (directions really should have been ready)
> 
> but .. p0rn
> 
> _snip_


OH MY.

Wow.

That looks incredible.


----------



## oreonutz

Zurv said:


> more of a pain that it should have been (directions really should have been ready)
> 
> but .. p0rn
> View attachment 2469901
> 
> View attachment 2469902
> 
> View attachment 2469903


OMG That is so Beatiful!

Can I have your permission to post these on my twitter to show my followers, That is outright beautiful, and I want to show everyone, but I don't like taking peoples pictures without permission. I will of course Tag your twitter if you have one!


----------



## Shawnb99

Now I want to see a copper one. So beautiful looking


----------



## D-EJ915

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> They may perform well but all those bit paths just show corners were cut to get out a product.
> 
> Optimus nickel plating has never been shinny so that is not what I was referring too.
> Surfaces were usually flat and nickel was at least flat looking besides the sand blasting effect.


The regular cold plates for the CPU blocks aren't machined like that which is why they have no similar marks. This has nothing to do with "quality" or whatever.


----------



## ThrashZone

D-EJ915 said:


> The regular cold plates for the CPU blocks aren't machined like that which is why they have no similar marks. This has nothing to do with "quality" or whatever.


Hi,
Cold plate has nothing to do with it

SigV2 body has no milling marks at all so the nickel looks uniform.

All optimus had to say is it's the new design, flat sux so they gave it ruts to give it more character lol


----------



## Zurv

oreonutz said:


> OMG That is so Beatiful!
> 
> Can I have your permission to post these on my twitter to show my followers, That is outright beautiful, and I want to show everyone, but I don't like taking peoples pictures without permission. I will of course Tag your twitter if you have one!


sure.

OMG NO FAN NOISE! Thank god.

so.. cyberpunk before was 77C and would settle at 1930mhz (boo)
now i'm 48C and 2160mhz.

The limit on perf is "voltage".. nice.. shunt stacking is doing its job.
I wish i could work out how much power it really is using. numbers from a wall read can be all over the place.
the CPU is 18 cores at 5ghz - which at a sec notice can have large power swings.

EDIT: ok.. to much power. The card is getting hot. For me (with 8ohm stacking shunts) 105% power is right at the level for "limit" between power and volt.

temp is now 39C. Much better.


----------



## D-EJ915

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Cold plate has nothing to do with it
> 
> SigV2 body has no milling marks at all so the nickel looks uniform.
> 
> All optimus had to say is it's the new design, flat sux so they gave it ruts to give it more character lol


They didn't say it was going to be satin bead blasted did they?


----------



## Eulerian

Oooo I am excited, great pics :O Can't wait!


----------



## ThrashZone

D-EJ915 said:


> They didn't say it was going to be satin bead blasted did they?


Hi,
Every block that I've ever seen have milling marks in the metal and plexi for that matter
This is the first deep marks I've seen 

Just thought for once optimus would make a smooth block and smooth as the acrylic


----------



## LiquidHaus

Thrash,

You are MORE than welcome to have at it and make your own waterblocks. The lack of knowledge you're displaying while attempting to put down the work that Optimus has done, is honestly quite laughable.


----------



## JustinThyme

asdf893 said:


> Why don't you send updates to your paying customers over email? How does twitter make more sense than emails?


Communication has been lacking from day one. Did anyone ever get their 20XX preorders?

brings me back to the poem

excuses are tools of the incompetent that build bridges to nowhere and monuments of nothingness......blah blah blah.


----------



## JustinThyme

LiquidHaus said:


> Thrash,
> 
> You are MORE than welcome to have at it and make your own waterblocks. The lack of knowledge you're displaying while attempting to put down the work that Optimus has done, is honestly quite laughable.


Got worn out on that to the point of using the block button. We were both supposed to be testing out of the box Optimus and WK blocks. Out comes the side grinder in less than 24 hours. I kept with the task as asked, I did get free blocks out if it and they just wanted numbers on HEDT. I tested both to the specs EK asked for. I the end they gave me similar performance out of the box.


----------



## ThrashZone

JustinThyme said:


> Communication has been lacking from day one. Did anyone ever get their 20XX preorders?
> 
> brings me back to the poem
> 
> excuses are tools of the incompetent that build bridges to nowhere and monuments of nothingness......blah blah blah.


Hi,
This is bashing lol 

All i did was make an observation and asked a simple question.


----------



## oreonutz

Zurv said:


> sure.
> 
> OMG NO FAN NOISE! Thank god.
> 
> so.. cyberpunk before was 77C and would settle at 1930mhz (boo)
> now i'm 48C and 2160mhz.
> 
> The limit on perf is "voltage".. nice.. shunt stacking is doing its job.
> I wish i could work out how much power it really is using. numbers from a wall read can be all over the place.
> the CPU is 18 cores at 5ghz - which at a sec notice can have large power swings.
> 
> EDIT: ok.. to much power. The card is getting hot. For me (with 8ohm stacking shunts) 105% power is right at the level for "limit" between power and volt.
> 
> temp is now 39C. Much better.


Dude, fricking awesome man! I appreciate it. Do you have a twitter handle I can tag?

So you probably know this, but just in case you don't, the best way I have found to get incredibly accurate power numbers, you just won't be able to isolate the power lost to waste heat and VRM inefficiency, but what I do for all my testing is to simply connect all my PCI-E Power Cables using Individually sleeved custom cables (Or failing that just get some extensions) and then Separate out the Ground wires from the 12v on all 3 sets of Power Cables, and then throw a current clamp on all of those 12v cables. 

I have done a decent amount of testing on this as well, and I found that even when using a cheap DC Current Clamp, the Numbers are literally within +/- 1.8% (Assuming you properly zero/calibrate your clamp before taking the reading) of using a proper $8000 Power supply meant for measuring power. 

So yeah its not PERFECT, but its pretty fricking close, and miles ahead of using something like a Watt-O-Meter that only gives you total system power. And there are really good cheap DC Current Clamps on Amazon that are like $50 That I found do that specific job literally almost as good as my $350 Fluke DC Current Clamp. Can drop a link if you are curious. 

Anyways, sorry if you already knew that, but if you didn't I felt it was to let you know, so you can easily take off your side panel, and if you already have custom cables where you can isolate individual cables, it takes like 5 mins to look at a PCIE Power Pinout and figure out which are ground and which are 12v hot. 

What makes it even easier is that with PCIE Power all the Hot are in one row, and all the grounds are in another, so it makes it super easy to just grab the top 4 and ignore the others. (*EDIT: My bad, I am always confusing EPS 12v and PCIE, its the bottom row that is all 12v on PCIe, and the last one on the Right is not a 12v, so its 3 Wires that you need to isolate on PCIE Power, not 4, just realized I was wrong after sending this*) 

Then just make sure to include the 12v in all 3, Zero the Clamp after turning it on, make sure its in DC Mode, and then clamp em. Then you just get raw amperage numbers, that are of course in 12v, so you just take the Current reading, times it by 12v, and boom you got your incredibly accurate power number! Now, where the Fluke's come in and make this even better, is you can tell the Fluke to record the data in a set interval, then run your Benchmark or Stress test, then once you are done, export that data to the PC, and now you can get some awesome visibility on how your card used power through out the test.

****, I went off on a tangent. I will shut up now. Oh yeah, you got a twitter handle I can shout out when I show the pix?



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Every block that I've ever seen have milling marks in the metal and plexi for that matter
> This is the first deep marks I've seen
> 
> Just thought for once optimus would make a smooth block and smooth as the acrylic
> View attachment 2469917





LiquidHaus said:


> Thrash,
> 
> You are MORE than welcome to have at it and make your own waterblocks. The lack of knowledge you're displaying while attempting to put down the work that Optimus has done, is honestly quite laughable.


Grand Master Flash, You Know I love you brother, but I agree with The Haus on this one. I don't pretend to know the intricacies of machining, but from the limited knowledge I do know I find your complaint to be reaching. Obviously its 100 Percent your opinion you are allowed to have one, but if I didn't know you, it would feel like you were literally just reaching for a reason to stir up more crap. 

I don't think that's what you are doing, I genuinely believe that this was your honest first reaction to seeing the photo. But after analyzing the photo a bit more, it is clear that their is just some moiré going on, which is making the milling marks appear far more pronounced then it would be in person. And for the machining that is there, from what I know, the way to clean those up are undesirable on a block like this because you want to keep your best contact, and although it would look "Smoother" to eye by running "cleaning" passes, in reality it would actually get worse Contact than if they just left the marks in. 

Please someone correct me If I am wrong on this, but I seem to remember a Modder making a video about this very subject on a block they machined themselves, and they found that it actually had better performance by simply leaving them in. If that is true, then I am sure Optimus did the testing and found the same. 

Also, I realize that aesthetics is always a subjective thing, but I personally find that the Marks add to its beauty, giving it character, it almost looks like a deliberate style, and there is nothing wrong with that either.

I just find it to be a weird complaint. But again, you are entitled to it, so maybe I shouldn't over analyze it, it was just my initial reaction to reading it, it threw me for a loop because it was the last thing I thought when looking at it.

Anyways, You are great at picking out criticisms of every product on the market, and you are certainly an equal opportunity offender, I just really genuinely would want to see what a block you designed would look like. You seem to be so knowledgeable about literally every single area from manufacturing to machining, to the design and layout and how it effects performance, I would really like to see you put your time and passion into this and come out with your own block, even if its just a prototype, to show what a ThrashMaster Fresh Block would look like. Maybe you could teach the Industry a thing or 2.

I think Optimus accomplished what they set out to do, and I think they should be celerbrated for it. Also, I would like to point out, that they built a Bigger badder, Higher Quality Block then the industry titans Like EK and Watercool, and they beat them to market to Boot. I know not everyone will be getting their block before the EK Ones ship, but a lot of us first batch guys, if not all of us first batch guys, will. That is a fricking feat, considering this company is literally barely a year old. Yeah it was rough, yeah the Estimates were way too liberal, but they are learning. They were ambitious as all hell, and I think its fair to say, at least by appearances, that they have met and perhaps surpassed their initial goal. I think that deserves some praise, even if its somewhat muted due to the rough preorder cycle. Ultimately its my opinion that as long as they deliver the product they promised, delays are tolerable if it meant getting a block that cut no shortcuts, and so far it appears they did just that.

Now we just need to see some good performance numbers come in. I usually do my own internal testing for my clients, and I do have a few clients picking up a block from Optimus on my strong recommendation for their new Ampere Cards, but unfortunately I do not have another FTW3 Block to compare it too. The only other Block I have for Ampere is from Alpha Cool, and its for the Reference cards, I checked, and there is no way it will properly mount to my FTW3, so unfortunately it looks like, until one of my clients asks to see the difference between an Ampere EK Block and the More Expensive Optimus Block, I won't have any justification to use company money to buy a competitors block to test.

So Hoping guys like @LiquidHaus Can do some good testing for us to show us the difference between the EK Block and the Optimus, as the amount of builds he does, I have a feeling he will have an EK Block once they start shipping on the 6th, so would love to see it those comparisons from him!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I asked if the milling marks were a new design, optimus did not comment on that question
They do look pretty uniform is why I added that comment so my only issue is I actually noticed the milling marks and asked about them.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I asked if the milling marks were a new design, optimus did not comment on that question
> They do look pretty uniform is why I added that comment so my only issue is I actually noticed the milling marks and asked about them.


Fair comment. People here forgot about the comments Skrupples made over the last couple months. He's gone quiet since then.


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> Dude, fricking awesome man! I appreciate it. Do you have a twitter handle I can tag?
> 
> So you probably know this, but just in case you don't, the best way I have found to get incredibly accurate power numbers, you just won't be able to isolate the power lost to waste heat and VRM inefficiency, but what I do for all my testing is to simply connect all my PCI-E Power Cables using Individually sleeved custom cables (Or failing that just get some extensions) and then Separate out the Ground wires from the 12v on all 3 sets of Power Cables, and then throw a current clamp on all of those 12v cables. I have done a decent amount of testing on this as well, and I found that even when using a cheap DC Current Clamp, the Numbers are literally within +/- 1.8% (Assuming you properly zero/calibrate your clamp before taking the reading) of using a proper $8000 Power supply meant for measuring power. So yeah its not PERFECT, but its pretty fricking close, and miles ahead of using something like a Watt-O-Meter that only gives you total system power. And there are really good cheap DC Current Clamps on Amazon that are like $50 That I found do that specific job literally almost as good as my $350 Fluke DC Current Clamp. Can drop a link if you are curious.
> 
> Anyways, sorry if you already knew that, but if you didn't I felt it was to let you know, so you can easily take off your side panel, and if you already have custom cables where you can isolate individual cables, it takes like 5 mins to look at a PCIE Power Pinout and figure out which are ground and which are 12v hot. What makes it even easier is that with PCIE Power all the Hot are in one row, and all the grounds are in another, so it makes it super easy to just grab the top 4 and ignore the others. Then just make sure to include the 12v in all 3, Zero the Clamp after turning it on, make sure its in DC Mode, and then clamp em. Then you just get raw amperage numbers, that are of course in 12v, so you just take the Current reading, times it by 12v, and boom you got your incredibly accurate power number! Now, where the Fluke's come in and make this even better, is you can tell the Fluke to record the data in a set interval, then run your Benchmark or Stress test, then once you are done, export that data to the PC, and now you can get some awesome visibility on how your card used power through out the test.
> 
> ****, I went off on a tangent. I will shut up now. Oh yeah, you got a twitter handle I can shout out when I show the pix?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grand Master Flash, You Know I love you brother, but I agree with The Haus on this one. I don't pretend to know the intricacies of machining, but from the limited knowledge I do know I find your complaint to be reaching. Obviously its 100 Percent your opinion you are allowed to have one, but if I didn't know you, it would feel like you were literally just reaching for a reason to stir up more crap.
> 
> I don't think that's what you are doing, I genuinely believe that this was your honest first reaction to seeing the photo. But after analyzing the photo a bit more, it is clear that their is just some moiré going on, which is making the milling marks appear far more pronounced then it would be in person. And for the machining that is there, from what I know, the way to clean those up are undesirable on a block like this because you want to keep your best contact, and although it would look "Smoother" to eye by running "cleaning" passes, in reality it would actually get worse Contact than if they just left the marks in.
> 
> Please someone correct me If I am wrong on this, but I seem to remember a Modder making a video about this very subject on a block they machined themselves, and they found that it actually had better performance by simply leaving them in. If that is true, then I am sure Optimus did the testing and found the same.
> 
> Also, I realize that aesthetics is always a subjective thing, but I personally find that the Marks add to its beauty, giving it character, it almost looks like a deliberate style, and there is nothing wrong with that either.
> 
> I just find it to be a weird complaint. But again, you are entitled to it, so maybe I shouldn't over analyze it, it was just my initial reaction to reading it, it threw me for a loop because it was the last thing I thought when looking at it.
> 
> Anyways, You are great at picking out criticisms of every product on the market, and you are certainly an equal opportunity offender, I just really genuinely would want to see what a block you designed would look like. You seem to be so knowledgeable about literally every single area from manufacturing to machining, to the design and layout and how it effects performance, I would really like to see you put your time and passion into this and come out with your own block, even if its just a prototype, to show what a ThrashMaster Fresh Block would look like. Maybe you could teach the Industry a thing or 2.
> 
> I think Optimus accomplished what they set out to do, and I think they should be celerbrated for it. Also, I would like to point out, that they built a Bigger badder, Higher Quality Block then the industry titans Like EK and Watercool, and they beat them to market to Boot. I know not everyone will be getting their block before the EK Ones ship, but a lot of us first batch guys, if not all of us first batch guys, will. That is a fricking feat, considering this company is literally barely a year old. Yeah it was rough, yeah the Estimates were way too liberal, but they are learning. They were ambitious as all hell, and I think its fair to say, at least by appearances, that they have met and perhaps surpassed their initial goal. I think that deserves some praise, even if its somewhat muted due to the rough preorder cycle. Ultimately its my opinion that as long as they deliver the product they promised, delays are tolerable if it meant getting a block that cut no shortcuts, and so far it appears they did just that.
> 
> Now we just need to see some good performance numbers come in. I usually do my own internal testing for my clients, and I do have a few clients picking up a block from Optimus on my strong recommendation for their new Ampere Cards, but unfortunately I do not have another FTW3 Block to compare it too. The only other Block I have for Ampere is from Alpha Cool, and its for the Reference cards, I checked, and there is no way it will properly mount to my FTW3, so unfortunately it looks like, until one of my clients asks to see the difference between an Ampere EK Block and the More Expensive Optimus Block, I won't have any justification to use company money to buy a competitors block to test.
> 
> So Hoping guys like @LiquidHaus Can do some good testing for us to show us the difference between the EK Block and the Optimus, as the amount of builds he does, I have a feeling he will have an EK Block once they start shipping on the 6th, so would love to see it those comparisons from him!


Whatever happened to JpmBoy and the other major testers we had here. We had couple of them here that have gone completely silent.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Fair comment. People here forgot about the comments Skrupples made over the last couple months. He's gone quiet since then.


Hi,
Yep I've been for the majority positive throughout covid mess
Not sure what happened to that dude

The powers of observation is my doom lol


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yep I've been for the majority positive throughout covid mess
> Not sure what happened to that dude
> 
> The powers of observation is my doom lol


That you have. I hope everything is ok with Skrupples. his comments often made you concerned about his current state of mind. Look at the stat for most postings in watercooling section this month. I think you are consistently on it.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Got worn out on that to the point of using the block button. We were both supposed to be testing out of the box Optimus and WK blocks. Out comes the side grinder in less than 24 hours. I kept with the task as asked, I did get free blocks out if it and they just wanted numbers on HEDT. I tested both to the specs EK asked for. I the end they gave me similar performance out of the box.


Forgot about you, you are one of the valuable reviewers for the waterblocks. Hope you get some samples to test out.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Forgot about you, you are one of the valuable reviewers for the waterblocks. Hope you get some samples to test out.


Hi,
He's a facebook ek shill now lol


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> He's a facebook ek shill now lol


Could be. The feeling i get from OCN watercooling is the bulk of us refuse to use EKWB unless its the only option lol.


----------



## originxt

LiquidHaus said:


> Thrash,
> 
> You are MORE than welcome to have at it and make your own waterblocks. The lack of knowledge you're displaying while attempting to put down the work that Optimus has done, is honestly quite laughable.


I don't think asking a question regarding the block itself is putting them down. He just asked why it was different from the initial renders. They haven't responded yet but the answer could just simply be they like the look itself over a flat surface.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Could be. The feeling i get from OCN watercooling is the bulk of us refuse to use EKWB unless its the only option lol.


Hi,
Heatkiller but doubt you'll see justin with any optimus gear 
Don't believe he uses the one block he has anymore.


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I asked if the milling marks were a new design, optimus did not comment on that question
> They do look pretty uniform is why I added that comment so my only issue is I actually noticed the milling marks and asked about them.


Fair point, I don't think it was that comment that made me scratch my head, that was a decent observation, it was your follow up comment that threw me for a loop. Let me find it...

Ok here are all 3 back to back:



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Sadly that water block has milling marks all over it.
> Is this some sort of new design process now ?
> View attachment 2469870


So, to me this doesn't read so much as a question, it feels more like a way to put down their process, while wrapping it up in a disengenious question. At least thats how it reads to me, it doesn't actually feel like you want to know the answer, it reads like to me that you think you already know the answer, and you want to point out that you think it sucks.

But its the next 2 that had me squinting...



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Acrylic is and isn't the problem lol
> It being so clear just shows the bit path clearer
> But yeah disappointing to my eyes to see all of the bit paths.


Again, Optimus had given you an answer, even if it wasn't the answer you wanted, and again, you are asserting without a shadow of a doubt, based of a photo that has some crazy moiré going on, that they have a problem, and you are disappointed by it. This is where I originally commented to say something along the lines of, "whoa really, what makes you think that?"

And then came this Gem.



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> They may perform well but all those bit paths just show corners were cut to get out a product.
> 
> Optimus nickel plating has never been shinny so that is not what I was referring too.
> Surfaces were usually flat and nickel was at least flat looking besides the sand blasting effect.


Straight up saying that, without a shadow of the doubt, Optimus Cut Corners while making their block, based on a photo, without the product in hand, because you don't like the Milling being left on the product, which obviously is subjective, you might hate the look and that is 100% valid, I was just trying to figure out where that analysis was coming from, was it simply because you didn't like the look, or did you think it would actually amount to a performance difference. And then you said they cut corners. And I just factually don't think that is necessarily the case. I think its a very hard case to make, that because a company made a decision to leave milling marks in, that they cut corners, when there are literally dozens of reasons of why a company might decide to do so. So that one, really, is where you come off more as just trying to troll for trolls sake, then actually genuinely asking a question. Maybe I am wrong, and you know I still value your input brother, just being honest with you. I am just not sure if that is factually true, but I am definitely open to evidence to show that me that my understanding is wrong.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> I don't think asking a question regarding the block itself is putting them down. He just asked why it was different from the initial renders. They haven't responded yet but the answer could just simply be they like the look itself over a flat surface.


Hi,
Yeah no reason to use renders instead of the real blocks GN got one months ago.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Heatkiller but doubt you'll see justin with any optimus gear
> Don't believe he uses the one block he has anymore.


Most of users here (esp Optimus) also use Heatkiller and Aquacomputer stuff too.


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah no reason to use renders instead of the real blocks GN got one months ago.


Man, I hate arguing. I am not a company representative and I hate feeling like one by defending them, but I also feel this is a skewed perspective. The GN Block was literally their ONE Prototype, that had Marks all over it. It was made from their 2080ti Designs, and in no way represented what we would be getting in the final product. This is why they didn't use that one Prototype that GN Got to keep as their Model Picture on their website, it was not accurate to the final product. I do expect that Optimus will update their photos now as I believe their final Product actually looks better than the Render (Again though I understand that is totally subjective), but I do think its disingenuous to insinuate they tricked you on purpose to believe that their wouldn't be machining marks, because they decided to use a render that more accurately represented their idea of what the final product would look like more than the GN Prototype that was literally whipped together in 2 days for GN Specifically.


----------



## ThrashZone

oreonutz said:


> Fair point, I don't think it was that comment that made me scratch my head, that was a decent observation, it was your follow up comment that threw me for a loop. Let me find it...
> 
> Ok here are all 3 back to back:
> 
> 
> 
> So, to me this doesn't read so much as a question, it feels more like a way to put down their process, while wrapping it up in a disengenious question. At least thats how it reads to me, it doesn't actually feel like you want to know the answer, it reads like to me that you think you already know the answer, and you want to point out that you think it sucks.
> 
> But its the next 2 that had me squinting...
> 
> 
> 
> Again, Optimus had given you an answer, even if it wasn't the answer you wanted, and again, you are asserting without a shadow of a doubt, based of a photo that has some crazy moiré going on, that they have a problem, and you are disappointed by it. This is where I originally commented to say something along the lines of, "whoa really, what makes you think that?"
> 
> And then came this Gem.
> 
> 
> 
> Straight up saying that, without a shadow of the doubt, Optimus Cut Corners while making their block, based on a photo, without the product in hand, because you don't like the Milling being left on the product, which obviously is subjective, you might hate the look and that is 100% valid, I was just trying to figure out where that analysis was coming from, was it simply because you didn't like the look, or did you think it would actually amount to a performance difference. And then you said they cut corners. And I just factually don't think that is necessarily the case. I think its a very hard case to make, that because a company made a decision to leave milling marks in, that they cut corners, when there are literally dozens of reasons of why a company might decide to do so. So that one, really, is where you come off more as just trying to troll for trolls sake, then actually genuinely asking a question. Maybe I am wrong, and you know I still value your input brother, just being honest with you. I am just not sure if that is factually true, but I am definitely open to evidence to show that me that my understanding is wrong.


Hi,
I posted a ek water block and ek is the best I guess at cutting corners and it looks smoother than optimus new one 

If it were a new design thing sweet but at least say so and put it up on their website too 

We dog ek all the time for poor manufacturing lol scrathes on plexi/.....


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I posted a ek water block and ek is the best I guess at cutting corners and it looks smoother than optimus new one
> 
> If it were a new design thing sweet but at least say so and put it up on their website too
> 
> We dog ek all the time for poor manufacturing lol scrathes on plexi/.....


That would be fair, except for I don't think its accurate to say this is poor machining. That is what I am trying to get at, what is your evidence for saying leaving milling marks deliberately on your product constitutes poor manufacturing, or cutting corners?

EDIT: Again, I am no where near as knowledgeable about that field as I am about others, I only know a tiny bit from following modding channels, and so it is more than possible that my understanding is flawed, and I freely admit that. I am genuinely asking you to provide evidence to support your argument, because it is my understanding that deliberately leaving milling that is within a certain tolerance is actually better for contact cooling, then by going over it to smooth it up. I could be wrong about this, I just am asking for something from you to support your insinuations. I like to learn man, but I want to see evidence so I know you are right.


----------



## ThrashZone

oreonutz said:


> *That would be fair, except for I don't think its accurate to say this is poor machining.* That is what I am trying to get at, what is your evidence for saying leaving milling marks deliberately on your product constitutes poor manufacturing, or cutting corners?
> 
> EDIT: Again, I am no where near as knowledgeable about that field as I am about others, I only know a tiny bit from following modding channels, and so it is more than possible that my understanding is flawed, and I freely admit that. I am genuinely asking you to provide evidence to support your argument, because it is my understanding that deliberately leaving milling that is within a certain tolerance is actually better for contact cooling, then by going over it to smooth it up. I could be wrong about this, I just am asking for something from you to support your insinuations. I like to learn man, but I want to see evidence so I know you are right.


Hi,
Exactly looks like a planned design and the sells man here just did not state it.


----------



## oreonutz

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Exactly looks like a planned design and the sells man here just did not state it.


I am so perplexed man! If you think that, then why the comments about bad machining and cutting corners? I am so confused. 

I always admire your brutal honesty. I think we all do, for the most part, but I just don't understand why the insinuations and accusations of cutting corners and poor machining, if you yourself believe it was a deliberate choice, and you are just waiting for them to confirm that assumption? I am trying to understand the thought process here. Maybe I should just give up, not my business, just curious, that's all. Most the time you are pretty on the money.


----------



## JGH_pc

Hi,

I'm just a salty person who's waiting months past ETA for my waterblock. Reading this forum has been eye opening. Wish I did it before I dove in and purchased thinking worst case was 2-3 weeks past original ETA.

That stuff with the cards they borrowed to design the block was crazy. But a solid indication of how customers would be treated.

Glad I found the pictures posted of one of the first ones in the wild. It's awesome looking.


----------



## Section31

JGH_pc said:


> Hi,
> 
> I'm just a salty person who's waiting months past ETA for my waterblock. Reading this forum has been eye opening. Wish I did it before I dove in and purchased thinking worst case was 2-3 weeks past original ETA.
> 
> That stuff with the cards they borrowed to design the block was crazy. But a solid indication of how customers would be treated.
> 
> Glad I found the pictures posted of one of the first ones in the wild. It's awesome looking.


It's worst time to order overall. Xmas season and New Year, things should get better. Everything is hit hard and supply is low, not just Optimus and PC parts.


----------



## JGH_pc

Section31 said:


> It's worst time to order overall. Xmas season and New Year, things should get better. Everything is hit hard and supply is low, not just Optimus and PC parts.


Yeah, that I understand. Most of us ordered in October. With a pre Thanksgiving eta, it wasn't supposed to go into holiday season lol.

Glad the product looks nice so I have that to look forward to if I ever get it.


----------



## LiquidHaus

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I posted a ek water block and ek is the best I *guess* at cutting corners and it looks smoother than optimus new one
> 
> If it were a new design thing sweet but at least say so and put it up on their website too
> 
> We dog ek all the time for poor manufacturing lol scrathes on plexi/.....



There we go.

A guess. That's all it is from you. Guesses.

Stop guessing and wording it as fact.


I'll also admit that in the past, EK has definitely had some growing pains while also trying to grow as big as they have become now. Cutting corners? I'd say business tactics fueling the growth more than passion. But that changes over time. Any other watercooling company should hope to be as big and successful as they are. 

I've personally worked with every major watercooling company out there other than Alphacool. I've had plenty of experience with everyone's products. And at different times in the past, each company has had similar situations like Optimus has had with their new GPU block. Even EK has had to delay their blocks till next month. I believe that's 3 or 4 times they've delayed it. And each time they have told countless customers information that had been constantly changing. 

It's honestly just shocking to see the audacity some people have with how quickly they can dismiss a product by simply viewing a photo of it on the internet, without actually having it in person to inspect. It's also showing how you can actually expect a render of a block to look exactly like the real end product. Really? Are we really discussing this? When was the last time you ever saw a render of a product that was literally the exact same as real life? You're seriously discrediting them because their renders are smooth and yet the actual machined product isn't smooth like the render? Mind. Blowing.

It's honestly not too surprising at this point to see how often Optimus *doesn't* feel the need to pop in here and entertain you guys. Sure, they could work on an email system that's easy to shoot off updates, but them using Twitter to shoot off updates rather than sort through this thread and update it makes sense to me.


----------



## whaleboy_4096

JGH_pc said:


> Hi,
> 
> I'm just a salty person who's waiting months past ETA for my waterblock. Reading this forum has been eye opening. Wish I did it before I dove in and purchased thinking worst case was 2-3 weeks past original ETA.
> 
> That stuff with the cards they borrowed to design the block was crazy. But a solid indication of how customers would be treated.
> 
> Glad I found the pictures posted of one of the first ones in the wild. It's awesome looking.


When I ordered from batch 2, the page said batch 1 mid november, batch 2 end of november. They just started shipping batch 1, and it's mid december now, so that is 4 weeks, not "months past ETA". I don't know if the ETA was different when you ordered, but if I get mine by the end of the month, it'll be 4 weeks past the original ETA. I wish it had released sooner, but it's still the first FTW block out. Just sayin...


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> There we go.
> 
> A guess. That's all it is from you. Guesses.
> 
> Stop guessing and wording it as fact.
> 
> 
> I'll also admit that in the past, EK has definitely had some growing pains while also trying to grow as big as they have become now. Cutting corners? I'd say business tactics fueling the growth more than passion. But that changes over time. Any other watercooling company should hope to be as big and successful as they are.
> 
> I've personally worked with every major watercooling company out there other than Alphacool. I've had plenty of experience with everyone's products. And at different times in the past, each company has had similar situations like Optimus has had with their new GPU block. Even EK has had to delay their blocks till next month. I believe that's 3 or 4 times they've delayed it. And each time they have told countless customers information that had been constantly changing.
> 
> It's honestly just shocking to see the audacity some people have with how quickly they can dismiss a product by simply viewing a photo of it on the internet, without actually having it in person to inspect. It's also showing how you can actually expect a render of a block to look exactly like the real end product. Really? Are we really discussing this? When was the last time you ever saw a render of a product that was literally the exact same as real life? You're seriously discrediting them because their renders are smooth and yet the actual machined product isn't smooth like the render? Mind. Blowing.
> 
> It's honestly not too surprising at this point to see how often Optimus *doesn't* feel the need to pop in here and entertain you guys. Sure, they could work on an email system that's easy to shoot off updates, but them using Twitter to shoot off updates rather than sort through this thread and update it makes sense to me.


More interested in the results you get when you your block. Also, have to say, really like looking at your build logs of all your builds. Wish had resources to build as well as you.


----------



## Optimus WC

Let's talk performance: Zurv went from 1930mhz to 2160mhz. And from 77 to 39c, and that's on his backup living room pc, no less.



Zurv said:


> so.. cyberpunk before was 77C and would settle at 1930mhz (boo)
> now i'm 48C and 2160mhz.
> 
> EDIT: temp is now 39C. Much better.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC I assume the other versions IE KPE model will look the similar if not the same?


----------



## JGH_pc

Optimus WC said:


> Let's talk performance: Zurv went from 1930mhz to 2160mhz. And from 77 to 39c, and that's on his backup living room pc, no less.


Yeah that's pretty crazy. Got into top 10 firestrike with my ftw3 3080 on air. Holding about 2060mhz. Think I can make moves for top spots once I get this block installed.


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC I assume the other versions IE KPE model will look the similar if not the same?


Yup. We wanted to do something crazy for KP but prob not worth the time, rather get the block shipped sooner 

Also, if there are questions I missed, plz ask again, too many comments to reread.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Yup. We wanted to do something crazy for KP but prob not worth the time, rather get the block shipped sooner
> 
> Also, if there are questions I missed, plz ask again, too many comments to reread.



Crazy in what way and how long a wait we talking? I’m down for crazy


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> Crazy in what way and how long a wait we talking? I’m down for crazy


KP colors, like gold and black. Nooooo idea on time frame


----------



## D-EJ915

Optimus WC said:


> KP colors, like gold and black. Nooooo idea on time frame


Black/smoked acrylic might look neat.


----------



## BULLGOD19

Any idea about an acetal top instead of plexi?


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> KP colors, like gold and black. Nooooo idea on time frame



Dot it! I want one!! I’d buy one for sure.


----------



## ThrashZone

oreonutz said:


> I am so perplexed man! If you think that, then why the comments about bad machining and cutting corners? I am so confused.
> 
> I always admire your brutal honesty. I think we all do, for the most part, but I just don't understand why the insinuations and accusations of cutting corners and poor machining, if you yourself believe it was a deliberate choice, and you are just waiting for them to confirm that assumption? I am trying to understand the thought process here. Maybe I should just give up, not my business, just curious, that's all. Most the time you are pretty on the money.


Hi,
I actually said after the bulk of milling is done the next step would be smoothing out the rough spots left behind.

If the milling marks are new design please say so @Optimus WC it's what I originally asked, all optimus said was nickel shows all marks... well it sure did but even a 3 year old ek block I posted looks smoother but clearly it has milling marks too.

Optimus milling marks look uniform and they used a small enough bit to think the marks were intentionally left like that because of looks or other undisclosed reasons I only gave possible reasons.


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

There's nothing wrong with milling marks. They add surface area and will help induce more turbulence, both of which enhance heat extraction.


----------



## iunlock

Optimus WC said:


> Yup. We wanted to do something crazy for KP but prob not worth the time, rather get the block shipped sooner
> 
> Also, if there are questions I missed, plz ask again, too many comments to reread.


I vote to keep the KP block simple and clean. Whatever is faster to release the KP block, I'm sure most of us care about availability over the blocks color scheme.


----------



## Grumfuddock

sok0 said:


> When are the AM4 Foundation blocks going to be back in stock?


I've got an AM4 block I did not end up using, new in box: only opened to take some pics. I'd sell it for my cost($141) + shipping/paypal fees



http://imgur.com/a/1FeE4XC


----------



## Optimus WC

Here's a rough look at the install instructions. The block is super easy to install.

For colors, we'll do black instead of clear at some point, it's going to be later january or feb.


----------



## RichKnecht

Optimus WC said:


> Let's talk performance: Zurv went from 1930mhz to 2160mhz. And from 77 to 39c, and that's on his backup living room pc, no less.


I'll admit, I wasn't "blown away" by my Signature V2 block performance, but this pretty much speaks for itself.


----------



## asdf893

Grumfuddock said:


> I've got an AM4 block I did not end up using, new in box: only opened to take some pics. I'd sell it for my cost($141) + shipping/paypal fees
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/1FeE4XC


would've been interested if it were just copper.


----------



## asdf893

LiquidHaus said:


> Thrash,
> 
> You are MORE than welcome to have at it and make your own waterblocks. The lack of knowledge you're displaying while attempting to put down the work that Optimus has done, is honestly quite laughable.


team Optimus out in full force.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Let's talk performance: Zurv went from 1930mhz to 2160mhz. And from 77 to 39c, and that's on his backup living room pc, no less.


Suprise us with good news on ordering lol


----------



## chibi

Zurv said:


> more of a pain that it should have been (directions really should have been ready)
> 
> but .. p0rn



Call me crazy, but I'm not sure if I'm liking that Wolf range more than the GPU block or not


----------



## whaleboy_4096

Optimus WC said:


> Also, if there are questions I missed, plz ask again, too many comments to reread.


What is the heat transfer rating on the included pads?


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> KP colors, like gold and black. Nooooo idea on time frame


Nice choice. So far your products have very much been good buy from you. One day i will replace the remainder of bp regular adapters/extenders with yours. Just missing an gpu waterblock.

Also don’t mind seeing your qdc, maybe cpc colder lq6


----------



## whaleboy_4096

chibi said:


> Call me crazy, but I'm not sure if I'm liking that Wolf range more than the GPU block or not


well one of the first things I thought was, is that if that toaster was scaled up it would make an awesome PC case


----------



## Zurv

Optimus WC said:


> Let's talk performance: Zurv went from 1930mhz to 2160mhz. And from 77 to 39c, and that's on his backup living room pc, no less.


I'm happy, but do note, that was coming from air cooling. It was also a shunt mod'd card, so it might have been dumping more heat into the card than normal. sadly the 2160 wasn't super stable so i dropped it down a bit too. 
That said i still have to work out what offsets i should use now. 119% more power is too much and i already hit "voltage" as the limit before then.

























(there is a another 360 hiding in the back and 2 D5 pumps)


----------



## WayWayUp

will this have any contact issues if i opt to use liquid metal instead?


----------



## Optimus WC

@Zurv nice rig! Looks like you're sub 8c temp over water, pretty solid. 

LM: Yes, go for it! Our mounting system is different than how all others are done, since the backplate sandwiches the pcb. It creates perfect contact everywhere, esp the die.


----------



## oreonutz

whaleboy_4096 said:


> well one of the first things I thought was, is that if that toaster was scaled up it would make an awesome PC case





Zurv said:


> I'm happy, but do note, that was coming from air cooling. It was also a shunt mod'd card, so it might have been dumping more heat into the card than normal. sadly the 2160 wasn't super stable so i dropped it down a bit too.
> That said i still have to work out what offsets i should use now. 119% more power is too much and i already hit "voltage" as the limit before then.
> 
> View attachment 2470006
> 
> View attachment 2470007
> 
> View attachment 2470010
> 
> (there is a another 360 hiding in the back and 2 D5 pumps)



Dude, that is SWEET! As an audio guy myself, I LOVE this setup man! About 10000 times cleaner than mine at home! LOL!


----------



## Section31

whaleboy_4096 said:


> well one of the first things I thought was, is that if that toaster was scaled up it would make an awesome PC case


Wolf lol. Thats one’s expensive home kitchen stuff. Expensive to repair. My parents replace the 15yr old wolf electric cooktop with an gagneau one. The gas stove still going strong after 15years and the sub zero fridge too (the expensive stainless with two glass pane - used in commercial kitchen)


----------



## oreonutz

So I got worried last night, when my tracking said that my shipment was delayed, and the last place it was known to be was a distribution center in IL. But Thankfully about 2 hours ago, it switched to "Out For Delivery" and it is indeed on my mail truck, set to be delivered by 6PM.

OOOOOH SHIITT! No Joke, as soon as I started writing this I got notified that it was delivered. I have an conference call I have to jump on at 9am that is going to last for an hour, so I can't take down my PC until after that, but HELL YEAH! ITS HERE!!!!!!!!


----------



## LikelyNotTheNSA

In batch 1 and still no shipping notice . Entire PC is sitting there just waiting for the block


----------



## straha20

LikelyNotTheNSA said:


> In batch 1 and still no shipping notice . Entire PC is sitting there just waiting for the block


Same here. I would love confirmation on a question I directly asked Optimus a few pages back...

Can they confirm that they have all the parts and doodads and stuff actually in hand to fulfill all the batch 1 orders? That they are not waiting on anything else for some of the orders, not waiting on backplates, or plating, or anything else. That the only thing batch1 is waiting on is how fast they can get them assembled, packaged, and shipped.


----------



## Zurv

oreonutz said:


> Dude, that is SWEET! As an audio guy myself, I LOVE this setup man! About 10000 times cleaner than mine at home! LOL!


I went deep down the dumb audiophile hole this year (I don't even listen to music... but.. covid.. suck at home.. needed project.) It makes all these computer stuff seem cheap 
blah.
Well, i did my bit to help the world economy with it.
suggestion, not audio people are crazy  - everything is protected by "this is a hobby" "i can tell the diff" "ignore science.. i can tell the diff."
haha.. i didn't not follow my suggestion and have $1000 power cables, 50 year old tubes, crazy dacs, et al.
(they really didn't make a diff... well, the dacs did.. hrmm.. and that tube amp looks really cool.... PrimaLuna.)
(oh, the Elac vela speakers are really nice - i'd strongly suggest getting out that Vela line from Elac. "cheap" high end and small. That was the biggest improvement i made. 407, 401 and 403s)


----------



## Shawnb99

oreonutz said:


> Dude, that is SWEET! As an audio guy myself, I LOVE this setup man! About 10000 times cleaner than mine at home! LOL!


I'm so jealous after seeing that setup. I don't care about the PC now, lets talk that beautiful audio setup. Those tubes have me


----------



## Arctucas

Are there any independent reviews/tests of Signature V2 vs. Heatkiller IV Pro Nickel?


----------



## oreonutz

Zurv said:


> I went deep down the dumb audiophile hole this year (I don't even listen to music... but.. covid.. suck at home.. needed project.) It makes all these computer stuff seem cheap
> blah.
> Well, i did my bit to help the world economy with it.
> suggestion, not audio people are crazy  - everything is protected by "this is a hobby" "i can tell the diff" "ignore science.. i can tell the diff."
> haha.. i didn't not follow my suggestion and have $1000 power cables, 50 year old tubes, crazy dacs, et al.
> (they really didn't make a diff... well, the dacs did.. hrmm.. and that tube amp looks really cool.... PrimaLuna.)
> (oh, the Elac vela speakers are really nice. That was the biggest improvement i made. 407, 401 and 403s)


I am with @Shawnb99, that setup is fricking amazing man! 

Whats crazy as an audio engineer, I agree with you man. Don't get me wrong, after the Dac's, Speakers, Clean Power, Sync Clocks, things that actually do make a huge difference, there is still small improvements to be made, but for the most part, other than catering to individuals taste's and color preferences, they are very miniscule differences. That said, its still a fun Journey to go on if you have the money.

Now in a studio, this stuff does all make a huge difference, but its because A) As an engineer, you have to get the cleanest capture of the audio performance as humanely possible. And Then B) You need to be able to listen back to that as close to perfect recording, as accurately as possible. But as an Engineer at the end of the day, we are mixing with the intent that 95% of our audience is going to be listening back on normal Consumer Audio gear in their Cars and Homes and Phones. So with that in mind, even though we always start the mix on these insane setups, a mix is never finalized until its referenced on consumer grade hardware. So while you can always pull out nuances that you might not otherwise notice (Thats the fun part about going deep into the rabbithole) if a mix was done properly, you should be able to get 95% of the enjoyment out of it, listening on a mid range to lower mid end Home Audio Setup. I will never try to stop some one from going down the audiophile journey though, as you learn a lot, and sometimes these small nuances mean more to certain people than they do to other, so I think the Journey should be encouraged. Just know your financial limit, because unless you are Jeff Bessos, trust me, there is always more you can pour in, until your flat broke!

But back to your setup. Man. I wish I could pay you to do one for me! LOL!


----------



## Shawnb99

Zurv said:


> I went deep down the dumb audiophile hole this year (I don't even listen to music... but.. covid.. suck at home.. needed project.) It makes all these computer stuff seem cheap
> blah.
> Well, i did my bit to help the world economy with it.
> suggestion, not audio people are crazy  - everything is protected by "this is a hobby" "i can tell the diff" "ignore science.. i can tell the diff."
> haha.. i didn't not follow my suggestion and have $1000 power cables, 50 year old tubes, crazy dacs, et al.
> (they really didn't make a diff... well, the dacs did.. hrmm.. and that tube amp looks really cool.... PrimaLuna.)
> (oh, the Elac vela speakers are really nice. That was the biggest improvement i made. 407, 401 and 403s)



No need to sugar coat it. Audiophiles are crazy. At least with PC’s we can measure the difference and even though we pay surcharge at least we know it’s a slight improvement. With audio it’s more based off of feeling. That’s how you end up with pure silver cables that offer no measurable difference but can sound like night and day to your ears. Same with the mythical burn in

The worst part of the audiophile rabbit hole is you can only really start to afford the good stuff as you get older, the same time as your hearing starts to get worse.


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> No need to sugar coat it. Audiophiles are crazy. At least with PC’s we can measure the difference and even though we pay surcharge at least we know it’s a slight improvement. With audio it’s more based off of feeling. That’s how you end up with pure silver cables that offer no measurable difference but can sound like night and day to your ears. Same with the mythical burn in
> 
> The worst part of the audiophile rabbit hole is you can only really start to afford the good stuff as you get older, the same time as your hearing starts to get worse.


God is this so true. Luckily I have always had magical ears, and training only tuned them better. In school I also got to play with some of the most expensive equipment I still have gotten to touch. Even some of the studios I worked in in LA and Las Vegas don't compare to some of the studios we got to play in Seattle. But that part about not being able to afford the stuff for yourself until your hearing just isnt what it was, man that is so damn true man. RIP!


----------



## oreonutz

OK, Will be back with Pics Soon, just joined the call. Have to sit on this stupid thing and Placate the board of one of the companies I sit on for an hour, then its time for fun!!!

PS: I haven't opened it yet, but MAN is this box HEAVY!!!


----------



## WayWayUp

Zurv said:


> I went deep down the dumb audiophile hole this year (I don't even listen to music... but.. covid.. suck at home.. needed project.) It makes all these computer stuff seem cheap
> blah.
> Well, i did my bit to help the world economy with it.
> suggestion, not audio people are crazy  - everything is protected by "this is a hobby" "i can tell the diff" "ignore science.. i can tell the diff."
> haha.. i didn't not follow my suggestion and have $1000 power cables, 50 year old tubes, crazy dacs, et al.
> (they really didn't make a diff... well, the dacs did.. hrmm.. and that tube amp looks really cool.... PrimaLuna.)
> (oh, the Elac vela speakers are really nice. That was the biggest improvement i made. 407, 401 and 403s)


tell me about it klipsch had that mega sale i ended up getting the rf7 III's


----------



## ThrashZone

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Sadly that water block has milling marks all over it.
> Is this some sort of new design process now ?
> View attachment 2469870





Optimus WC said:


> The fins have some weird moire in the photo. The mid plates are shiny nickel plating, like our cold plates, but not like our satin nickel blocks. It needs to be shiny because there are a number of surface areas that need best contact for thermal pads. *With this nickel, it shows everything, so you will see the machining paths in the fluid channels.* Also our acrylic is perfectly clear, so you also see everything. *It's basically impossible to make the inside of the fluid paths mirror finished*, other than slapping so much bad chrome-nickel on there it hides everything. In person, the blocks are insanely built and high quality, easily the best thing we've made so far





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I actually said after the bulk of milling is done the next step would be smoothing out the rough spots left behind.
> 
> If the milling marks are new design please say so @Optimus WC it's what I originally asked, all optimus said was nickel shows all marks... well it sure did but even a 3 year old ek block I posted looks smoother but clearly it has milling marks too.
> 
> Optimus milling marks look uniform and they used a small enough bit to think the marks were intentionally left like that because of looks or other undisclosed reasons I only gave possible reasons.





Optimus WC said:


> Let's talk performance: Zurv went from 1930mhz to 2160mhz. And from 77 to 39c, and that's on his backup living room pc, no less.


Hi,
I guess you're done with the looks inquiry I made with the above statement
Issue is sigV2 has fluid paths too "Obviously not near as large as a gpu block" and there are no milling marks in the larger spaces, brass verses copper shouldn't make any difference the wider sections had to have been ran again to make it wider than the top/ bottom narrow parts yet no seam


----------



## LikelyNotTheNSA

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I guess you're done with the looks inquiry I made with the above statement
> Issue is sigV2 has fluid paths too "Obviously not near as large as a gpu block" and there are no milling marks in the larger spaces, brass verses copper shouldn't make any difference the wider sections had to have been ran again to make it wider than the top/ bottom narrow parts yet no seam
> 
> 
> View attachment 2470039


That block is a satin finish, not mirror.

Seeing tool paths is entirely normal on a mirror finish item. The only ways to really get rid of them is either grinding/polishing (can't do this on a multilevel item) or do some media blasting to get it to be satin finished (which means it is no longer a mirror finish).


----------



## LiquidHaus




----------



## ThrashZone

LikelyNotTheNSA said:


> That block is a satin finish, not mirror.
> 
> Seeing tool paths is entirely normal on a mirror finish item. The only ways to really get rid of them is either grinding/polishing (can't do this on a multilevel item) or do some media blasting to get it to be satin finished (which means it is no longer a mirror finish).


Hi,
It's optimus nickel they have never had a mirror finish.


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> I am with @Shawnb99, that setup is fricking amazing man!
> 
> Whats crazy as an audio engineer, I agree with you man. Don't get me wrong, after the Dac's, Speakers, Clean Power, Sync Clocks, things that actually do make a huge difference, there is still small improvements to be made, but for the most part, other than catering to individuals taste's and color preferences, they are very miniscule differences. That said, its still a fun Journey to go on if you have the money.
> 
> Now in a studio, this stuff does all make a huge difference, but its because A) As an engineer, you have to get the cleanest capture of the audio performance as humanely possible. And Then B) You need to be able to listen back to that as close to perfect recording, as accurately as possible. But as an Engineer at the end of the day, we are mixing with the intent that 95% of our audience is going to be listening back on normal Consumer Audio gear in their Cars and Homes and Phones. So with that in mind, even though we always start the mix on these insane setups, a mix is never finalized until its referenced on consumer grade hardware. So while you can always pull out nuances that you might not otherwise notice (Thats the fun part about going deep into the rabbithole) if a mix was done properly, you should be able to get 95% of the enjoyment out of it, listening on a mid range to lower mid end Home Audio Setup. I will never try to stop some one from going down the audiophile journey though, as you learn a lot, and sometimes these small nuances mean more to certain people than they do to other, so I think the Journey should be encouraged. Just know your financial limit, because unless you are Jeff Bessos, trust me, there is always more you can pour in, until your flat broke!
> 
> But back to your setup. Man. I wish I could pay you to do one for me! LOL!


Ehh, with audiogear, just buy a DAC and an Amp that doesn't introduce any additional distortion. It should be as clean as possible in terms of output. THD+N should be as low as possible (or the inverse SINAD should be as high as possible). I'm an "audiophile" myself, and poured all my money into speakers, as that's where you'll hear the biggest differences (I went for Revel Performa3 F206). My Amp is a state of the art Purifi Audio Class-D stereo amp (self-built), very low distortion. The Benchmark amp is the only one that really beats it (and it's a lot more expensive). Still need to get a good Dac (currently running things off of a Yamaha AVR), and will at some point probably get an 8-ch Octo DAC.

Cables, just get decent Oxygen Free pure copper. Better yet, build them yourself  I made my own interconnects.

There is a lot that can be measured in audio gear. And typically, differences that people claim to hear fall apart in double-blind tests.

www.audiosciencereview.com is your friend 

What will affect the sound the most, in the end, is the room your setup is in. Room correction is crucial in getting close to a perfect reproduction of the recording (and then you hope that the recording is mastered well, as there are many many many bad recordings out there).


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> OK, Will be back with Pics Soon, just joined the call. Have to sit on this stupid thing and Placate the board of one of the companies I sit on for an hour, then its time for fun!!!
> 
> PS: I haven't opened it yet, but MAN is this box HEAVY!!!


Just tell those board members to shove it up their behind, and hang up.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> No need to sugar coat it. Audiophiles are crazy. At least with PC’s we can measure the difference and even though we pay surcharge at least we know it’s a slight improvement. With audio it’s more based off of feeling. That’s how you end up with pure silver cables that offer no measurable difference but can sound like night and day to your ears. Same with the mythical burn in
> 
> The worst part of the audiophile rabbit hole is you can only really start to afford the good stuff as you get older, the same time as your hearing starts to get worse.


Nah, man. A lot can be measured with audiogear. Audiophools just refuse to believe measurements matter and claim they have golden ears, can hear the most minute differences between gear etc. But those claims usually fall apart in a controlled double-blind test.

Especially for DACs and Amps, those can be measured quite well and really all you're looking for is the lowest possible distortion, flat frequency resonse, etc. And then speakers is where you'll hear actual differences, but there too you can take measurements. There's a lot of scientific research done in this field, particularly by Harman International.

For speakers you'll again want lowest possible distortion, and then the next criteria is frequency response. Ideally as flat as possible, for accuracy. But here individual tastes might want something less flat I guess, so that's more up for debate.


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> Ehh, with audiogear, just buy a DAC and an Amp that doesn't introduce any additional distortion. It should be as clean as possible in terms of output. THD+N should be as low as possible (or the inverse SINAD should be as high as possible). I'm an "audiophile" myself, and poured all my money into speakers, as that's where you'll hear the biggest differences (I went for Revel Performa3 F206). My Amp is a state of the art Purifi Audio Class-D stereo amp (self-built), very low distortion. The Benchmark amp is the only one that really beats it (and it's a lot more expensive). Still need to get a good Dac (currently running things off of a Yamaha AVR), and will at some point probably get an 8-ch Octo DAC.
> 
> Cables, just get decent Oxygen Free pure copper. Better yet, build them yourself  I made my own interconnects.
> 
> There is a lot that can be measured in audio gear. And typically, differences that people claim to hear fall apart in double-blind tests.
> 
> www.audiosciencereview.com is your friend
> 
> What will affect the sound the most, in the end, is the room your setup is in. Room correction is crucial in getting close to a perfect reproduction of the recording (and then you hope that the recording is mastered well, as there are many many many bad recordings out there).


Need a linear PSU for each, also don’t forget music is only as good as it’s source so go ahead and add a media server in there as well depending on how you listen to your music. 
Audio is deep deep rabbit hole cause different gear sounds better with different music or instruments so it’s always a delicate balance getting it all right. 
We all also all hear different so what’s good to me isn’t good for you. There’s no perfect setup.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> Need a linear PSU for each, also don’t forget music is only as good as it’s source so go ahead and add a media server in there as well depending on how you listen to your music.
> Audio is deep deep rabbit hole cause different gear sounds better with different music or instruments so it’s always a delicate balance getting it all right.
> We all also all hear different so what’s good to me isn’t good for you. There’s no perfect setup.


Read up on the circle of confusion: Audio's Circle of Confusion

That explains a lot why music can sound so different across gear.

But again, the biggest difference will be caused by the speakers. A good DAC and Amp shouldn't change the source signal at all. A DAC should perfectly convert the bits to an analog signal, and the Amp should perfectly amplify that signal for playback on speakers. Of course, we don't live in a perfect world. And some people will buy tube amps, which deliberately introduce distortion to the audio signal, but some people like that (I don't).

A media server will otherwise make 0 difference in how music sounds, as it's just passing on bits to the eventual DAC. It does make things more convenient though  I have my FLAC collection being served from a NAS in my home. And the rest I stream through Spotify, as I can't hear the difference between 320kbps lossy format and lossless (I did a double-blind test on myself, and I didn't hear a difference).


----------



## originxt

I've got some old equipment, klipschorns, marantz 7, macintosh 240, marantz 19, jbl 4425s, and a Yamaha rx-v1. Each has their own sound and can be fun. I don't buy the cable argument honestly. Tried expensive silver cables and just your normal copper, I think I have to trick myself into thinking I hear something different.


----------



## sakete

originxt said:


> I've got some old equipment, klipschorns, marantz 7, macintosh 240, marantz 19, jbl 4425s, and a Yamaha rx-v1. Each has their own sound and can be fun. I don't buy the cable argument honestly.


Yeah, people who claim $1000 cables sound better than $10 cables are audiophools. And fools are easily parted with their money.

Really, it's just complete nonsense, there is no scientific evidence for it. Just get decent OFC cables, and done. And then if you have very long cable runs, get thicker cables (lower gauge rating). But there will otherwise be 0 (zero) difference in sound. Absolutely zero.


----------



## JGH_pc

Hey @Optimus WC

What do shipping dates look like for people in batch 2? Are we looking into Early Jan, Mid Jan, Feb?

I took some of the twitter posts to indicate that all of a batch would ship out together (or at least in large groups) looking here it appears to be 1 by 1. I realistically need to take a day off of work in order to be able to get my loop taken apart and rebuilt with the block in a new case. I would be in the mid batch 2 group.

What should I expect?


----------



## Zurv

haha... as someone that got a few $1000 cables i noticed zero diff. (vs other high quality cables.) I went crazy this summer.  I even had the walls ripped open to run multi 20A lines.
I have everything jammed behind the AV area and there was EMI.
cheap is still junk, but good mid price stuff == high end.
bluejeanscables.com is a good place to start for cables.
schiit makes some really nice dac and amps.

What did pay off was the audioquest Niagara conditioners. They cleaned up the power without robbing life. The 3000 is amazing IMO but costly. 1200 is great too.
(I also very much dislike audiosciencereview, it is like some cult there and the cult leader handles tests poorly. I've find www.superbestaudiofriends.org more useful to me.. tho they are kinda jerks. More of a place to read vs post.)

also, stay away from tubes  they will send you down are dark tunnel. (tube rolling? more like money spending. Functionally they are doing analog EQ. They do look cool tho


----------



## Optimus WC

JGH_pc said:


> Hey @Optimus WC
> 
> What do shipping dates look like for people in batch 2? Are we looking into Early Jan, Mid Jan, Feb?
> 
> I took some of the twitter posts to indicate that all of a batch would ship out together (or at least in large groups) looking here it appears to be 1 by 1. I realistically need to take a day off of work in order to be able to get my loop taken apart and rebuilt with the block in a new case. I would be in the mid batch 2 group.
> 
> What should I expect?


Most of batch two will be week after next. All of batch 1 will be finished up tomorrow and monday, then it's onto batch 2.


----------



## JGH_pc

Optimus WC said:


> Most of batch two will be week after next. All of batch 1 will be finished up tomorrow and monday, then it's onto batch 2.


Thank you!

Good news.


----------



## GAN77

*Optimus WC,*

What is the result of your internal testing, delta chip water, for GPU BLOCK FTW3 with a load of 350-400 watts?


----------



## Optimus WC

GAN77 said:


> *Optimus WC,*
> 
> What is the result of your internal testing, delta chip water, for GPU BLOCK FTW3 with a load of 350-400 watts?


8c delta.


----------



## JGH_pc

@Zurv 

I thought I had graduated to a big boy set up for my Cyberpunk 2077 upgrades. JBL305p, LGCX, a $225 30ft active hdmi2.1 cable and a $20 amazon dac + optical splitter. I needed to convert to optical and back to analog or you could hear the PC noises coming out of the studio monitors haha. I also did my best job of zen-ing the look of the room that my unrefined 30yr old basement dwelling self could do.

Your set up makes me blush.

Here's mine.

























And the loop with jerryrigged fan hanging to cool the ram that started overheating when I added the 3080ftw3


----------



## GAN77

Optimus WC said:


> 8c delta.


This inspires respect for the work done!


----------



## dilster97

Optimus WC said:


> We can send you new mounting hardware, the backplates themselves are included with the AM4 motherboards.


Should I send a message via the contact form on the website requesting the mounting hardware or send a DM here? Just wondering what would be the preferred option.


----------



## Optimus WC

dilster97 said:


> Should I send a message via the contact form on the website requesting the mounting hardware or send a DM here? Just wondering what would be the preferred option.


Contact form


----------



## sakete

Zurv said:


> haha... as someone that got a few $1000 cables i noticed zero diff. (vs other high quality cables.) I went crazy this summer.  I even had the walls ripped open to run multi 20A lines.
> I have everything jammed behind the AV area and there was EMI.
> cheap is still junk, but good mid price stuff == high end.
> bluejeanscables.com is a good place to start for cables.
> schiit makes some really nice dac and amps.
> 
> What did pay off was the audioquest Niagara conditioners. They cleaned up the power without robbing life. The 3000 is amazing IMO but costly. 1200 is great too.
> (I also very much dislike audiosciencereview, it is like some cult there and the cult leader handles tests poorly. I've find www.superbestaudiofriends.org more useful to me.. tho they are kinda jerks. More of a place to read vs post.)
> 
> also, stay away from tubes  they will send you down are dark tunnel. (tube rolling? more like money spending. Functionally they are doing analog EQ. They do look cool tho


Ehh, I like AudioScienceReview (ASR). Yeah, some of the folks there maybe get overly zealous about having zero-tolerance for any kind of subjectivist perspective on audio gear. But overall, I think the reviewer there is doing audiophiles a service by providing hard data on so much equipment (curious to hear why you think he handles his tests poorly). Especially for amps and dacs, I just want the best performing one, which can be measured objectively. For speakers it becomes more complicated to determine which one is best. You at least want one with low distortion, but otherwise the frequency response of the speakers can in the end be a bit subjective. Some people may prefer a brighter sound, some a warmer sound, etc. I personally prefer a flat sound as that's most easy to EQ (including with Room EQ). But at least we can now see the measurements of these speakers and people can then make up their own mind about what's important to them.

Before you had to read 2-3 pages of some person expounding on how well a speaker sounds, with this song and that song, and bla bla bla. Complete nonsense that's completely useless for making a purchasing decision.

And yeah, bluejeanscables makes decent cables. And now Schiit makes good stuff yeah, but the stuff they were making initially was quite poor. It was actually through reviews from ASR that they started improving their engineering. ASR was initially highlighting their poor performance and bad engineering (some of their stuff had ground loops that could have been easily eliminated with good engineering). They upped their game after that and now make very well performing gear.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Most of batch two will be week after next. All of batch 1 will be finished up tomorrow and monday, then it's onto batch 2.


Thank you for the update. Can't wait to place order for the third batch.


----------



## NewType88

sakete said:


> Ehh, I like AudioScienceReview (ASR). Yeah, some of the folks there maybe get overly zealous about having zero-tolerance for any kind of subjectivist perspective on audio gear.


I've noticed this recently too. Its super obnoxious. Binary thinking at its finest.


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Ehh, I like AudioScienceReview (ASR). Yeah, some of the folks there maybe get overly zealous about having zero-tolerance for any kind of subjectivist perspective on audio gear. But overall, I think the reviewer there is doing audiophiles a service by providing hard data on so much equipment (curious to hear why you think he handles his tests poorly). Especially for amps and dacs, I just want the best performing one, which can be measured objectively. For speakers it becomes more complicated to determine which one is best. You at least want one with low distortion, but otherwise the frequency response of the speakers can in the end be a bit subjective. Some people may prefer a brighter sound, some a warmer sound, etc. I personally prefer a flat sound as that's most easy to EQ (including with Room EQ). But at least we can now see the measurements of these speakers and people can then make up their own mind about what's important to them.
> 
> Before you had to read 2-3 pages of some person expounding on how well a speaker sounds, with this song and that song, and bla bla bla. Complete nonsense that's completely useless for making a purchasing decision.
> 
> And yeah, bluejeanscables makes decent cables. And now Schiit makes good stuff yeah, but the stuff they were making initially was quite poor. It was actually through reviews from ASR that they started improving their engineering. ASR was initially highlighting their poor performance and bad engineering (some of their stuff had ground loops that could have been easily eliminated with good engineering). They upped their game after that and now make very well performing gear.


I HATE GROUND LOOPS!!! AN ENGINEER's WORST FRICKING NIGHTMARE!!!!!!!


----------



## KedarWolf

Optimus peeps, any plans on making a block for the MSI 3090 Ventus?


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> Optimus peeps, any plans on making a block for the MSI 3090 Ventus?


Curious why its either Asus/EVGA that Heatkiller/Aquacomputer/Optimus only support. Rarely seen MSI/Gigabyte/Etc get anything


----------



## arvinz

Not sure if this has been asked before but any plans for Strix 3080/3090 waterblocks?


----------



## Eulerian

Would there be any added utility in purchasing some Alphacool Eisschicht Thermal Pad 17 W/mk thermal pads for this? (and if so, what are the thicknesses involved that would need to be purchased?)


----------



## Section31

arvinz said:


> Not sure if this has been asked before but any plans for Strix 3080/3090 waterblocks?


the e-mail said in late January


----------



## Zurv

Eulerian said:


> Would there be any added utility in purchasing some Alphacool Eisschicht Thermal Pad 17 W/mk thermal pads for this? (and if so, what are the thicknesses involved that would need to be purchased?)


likely not needed unless you have fat hand (like me) and f up pad.
they are all .5mm

alpha is fujipoly too. (i think)


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC how long a delay we talking to go black/gold? Gold plated instead of nickel would look sweet!


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Whatever happened to JpmBoy and the other major testers we had here. We had couple of them here that have gone completely silent.


JPM did his run on an Optimus. His comments are buried in this thread somewhere. He is a frequent poster just in a lot of areas. Only thing going on in here ATM is where’s my stuff? I only got the Sig V2. My testing is also buried in here. Good block, fortunately for me the wait was shorter than most.


----------



## Optimus WC

RE: Future blocks, we get almost no requests for MSI/gig/zotac/pny. It's only people who bought one of those cards because the others were sold out. It's all EVGA, ASUS and FE. We will do the Strix. It's designed, we just need to prototype and validate once we're done with the FTW3 block shipments. 

RE: pads, the higher wmk pads have downsides, for example, they're very hard, don't compress easily and the tolerances for performance are quite small. So if you're not using them in the perfect conditions, you don't get the performance.

Also, it's really diminishing returns, since the heat to be soaked out of ram and mosfets is spread over a larger area. The block design has more to do with the performance than the pads. For example, our block with garbage pads will vastly outperform a bad block with the best pads. While our block with the best pads won't have significant real world gains.



Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC how long a delay we talking to go black/gold? Gold plated instead of nickel would look sweet!


We'd prob never do actual gold in the water path, galvanic corrosion and all that. And black nickel isnt really a thing (at least to our standards). So it's more like screws and logos and stuff. But, really, anything that delays more blocks is prob not going to happen right now, otherwise I'd get murdered by everyone who preordered ftws


----------



## D-EJ915

Optimus WC said:


> And black nickel isnt really a thing (at least to our standards). So it's more like screws and logos and stuff. But, really, anything that delays more blocks is prob not going to happen right now, otherwise I'd get murdered by everyone who preordered ftws


Coming from the guitar world yeah black nickel is the worst kind of trash lol. That stuff breaks down so fast it's sad.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> We'd prob never do actual gold in the water path, galvanic corrosion and all that. And black nickel isnt really a thing (at least to our standards). So it's more like screws and logos and stuff. But, really, anything that delays more blocks is prob not going to happen right now, otherwise I'd get murdered by everyone who preordered ftws


Yeah I know gold would never work, would look amazing but wouldn’t work 🙁 Solid silver block though would work and look great.... the price would be insane though.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Whatever happened to JpmBoy and the other major testers we had here. We had couple of them here that have gone completely silent.


Hi,
Main thread links as always read a little further for more details
Jp using his 380i








Intel Core i9-10980XE: 5 GHz on 18 cores


JPM or someone maybe you guys got an idea - I've got a 10980XE sitting at 5GHz 1.35V. I toss p95 SSE blend on it for 24 hours and it sits under 85C entire time. I power off/on, put on p95 again and it overheats within an hour. I mess with my cooler a bit and fans, it sits okay at 85 again...




www.overclock.net





Jp's testing optimus foundation 1st install








Intel Core i9-10980XE: 5 GHz on 18 cores


Hi, Heatkiller 4 pro on the 9900k Optimus signature on the 2066 it's the only updated block for these chips on the market bottom line It is a commitment though at 170.us see if you can get it at Performance pc OCN55 at the least 5% off or hit them up on a holiday for 10-15% maybe with holiday...




www.overclock.net





Jp's optimus signature demo test








Intel Core i9-10980XE: 5 GHz on 18 cores


Can I get a link to this store? Is it USA based? I'd like to check them out, but want to make sure I get the right one so don't want to risk googling it. Sure and yes all their locations appear to be in California. https://www.centralcomputer.com/ if you can't find the item page for something...




www.overclock.net





Justin changed his entire setup for magnitude test lol 
Ran shorter runs as well on magnitude never really said anything on his tests either.


----------



## Arctucas

So, no head-to-head tests?

Been considering a Signature, but at $200, it would need to be significantly better, like 5°C or more.


----------



## ThrashZone

Arctucas said:


> So, no head-to-head tests?
> 
> Been considering a Signature, but at $200, it would need to be significantly better, like 5°C or more.


Hi,
Foundation would be fine for 4c cooler than magnitude and I believe about the same against heatkiller 4 pro but I had a wonky 9940x on HK testing








Optimus Waterblock


Hi, No more 420 for you dude :) would you like to make a little wager that 3080 is at least as fast, if not 5-10% faster than 2080ti? while being more like 2-4x as fast in RTX handling? also, seeing as i'm at work, no 4:20 since my wake up dabs?




www.overclock.net





Magnitude and sigV2 and foundation head to heads links are on my signature


----------



## RichKnecht

Arctucas said:


> So, no head-to-head tests?
> 
> Been considering a Signature, but at $200, it would need to be significantly better, like 5°C or more.


 I was using a Suprmeacy EVO with my 10980XE and switched to a Signature V2. under max loads, it reduced the temp by ~3-5C. The real imprvoement was temp spread between cores. With the Evo I was seeing a 15-20C spread ( remounted it SEVERAL times with the same results) and with the V2, I see ~a 9C spread. So, if you are looking to drop overall load temps, don't expect a miracle. However, if you are using a HCC chip, it will help with core temp differences.


----------



## Arctucas

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Foundation would be fine for 4c cooler than magnitude and I believe about the same against heatkiller 4 pro but I had a wonky 9940x on HK testing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimus Waterblock
> 
> 
> Hi, No more 420 for you dude :) would you like to make a little wager that 3080 is at least as fast, if not 5-10% faster than 2080ti? while being more like 2-4x as fast in RTX handling? also, seeing as i'm at work, no 4:20 since my wake up dabs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Magnitude and sigV2 and foundation head to heads links are on my signature


Thanks.

Still looking for more.


----------



## ThrashZone

Arctucas said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Still looking for more.


Hi,
Only other head to heads were on TPU review of 1511 optimus blocks
But those test are only fractions of a celsius difference lol


----------



## whaleboy_4096

Zurv said:


> _sigh_
> just sitting here with 11 holes.. and 11 screws of two different sizes.
> (and 11 really short screws)
> 
> where do these go?!?
> 
> EDIT: ok, the black plate connects to the PCB first - thus the small screws.
> But connecting the front of block with the 11 other screws. I'm not clear which size screw goes with what holes.
> There are 5 longer ones. If it was 4, i would assume those go around the GPU.. but there are 5.
> Also, not real contact with the pads on the block with the PCB.. i hope that happens with pressure (but it shouldn't... and taking the block apart will rip the poly)
> 
> the non-squishy nature of poly is one of their downsides (but likely the reason why they conduct heat so well.)
> 
> EDIT2: i just started with the holes that the small ones had contact with.
> It seems like the bottom part of the card (bottom being the PCI-E) that is where the smaller (of the longer screws) go.
> that confuses me a bit as the block and the PCB are flat.. so the screw should be the same for the top and bottom....


You mentioned contact issue with the pads. Do you think that was still a possible issue after assembly? Or was it likely a non issue once everything was screwed down? Just curious...


----------



## straha20

So, my order was Oct 20, batch 1, and no shipping notification today, so it looks like Monday then, since the last from Optimus was that they would have the final blocks in batch 1 finished and shipped on Monday. Here's hoping...


----------



## asdf893

Received my copper block today. Looks pretty nice.


----------



## asdf893

more pics


http://imgur.com/a/lAPqcRn


----------



## JustinThyme

Arctucas said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Still looking for more.


Nothing to be had outside of the Optimus and the EK magnitude that’s much more expensive. The improvement over a heat killer got me a solid 3C better with both with another 200MHZ in the OC.
I tried a supremacy EVO before I went to the Heatkiller that was a decent improvement over the supremacy. What are you running now?


----------



## JustinThyme

asdf893 said:


> more pics
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/lAPqcRn


now you have to put that puppy on and post up your results.


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> more pics
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/lAPqcRn


Both copper and xe-nickel looks nice


----------



## Kana Chan

asdf893 said:


> Received my copper block today. Looks pretty nice.


Very nice look!


----------



## acoustic

The copper looks fantastic. Glad to see Optimus is finally shipping!

Enjoy gents


----------



## Avacado

Maybe I can't see it from the front view, but looks like it will be a ***** to clean those fins.... How do you access them?


----------



## Section31

For those into optimus block and within canada, i am considering starting an group buy lol. My local friends likely joining me as well.


----------



## Optimus WC

Regarding fins and general cleaning/assembly, the cold plate is a separate piece. And all screws go into metal, not into acrylic threads, so maintenance is safe. Also, the gasket is awesome, no more struggling with slippery o-rings


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Regarding fins and general cleaning/assembly, the cold plate is a separate piece. And all screws go into metal, not into acrylic threads, so maintenance is safe. Also, the gasket is awesome, no more struggling with slippery o-rings
> 
> View attachment 2470326


Love the design. Can’t wait to get ahold of one


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Regarding fins and general cleaning/assembly, the cold plate is a separate piece. And all screws go into metal, not into acrylic threads, so maintenance is safe. Also, the gasket is awesome, no more struggling with slippery o-rings
> 
> View attachment 2470326


Are you still on track to have the entire batch 1 set of blocks shipped by tomorrow?


----------



## oreonutz

asdf893 said:


> Received my copper block today. Looks pretty nice.
> View attachment 2470259


Oh My, I didn't realize how much I would like the look of that!


----------



## LiquidHaus

can i haz pls


----------



## oreonutz

So I have my Block installed, and I am LOVING it so far! Didn't go 7c above Water Temp last night, but fell asleep in my recliner playing the game, when I woke up The Block had reached 8c above Water (But I am pretty sure that had more to do with my Fan Curve, as my Fan's aren't going above 850 RPM). Still, right in line with what @Optimus WC Told us to expect. I am incredibly happy with my block, and I have to say, It was definitely worth the wait!

Pics: (EDIT: My bad, posted this without the pics, just put them in.)


Spoiler


----------



## originxt

oreonutz said:


> So I have my Block installed, and I am LOVING it so far! Didn't go 7c above Water Temp last night, but fell asleep in my recliner playing the game, when I woke up The Block had reached 8c above Water (But I am pretty sure that had more to do with my Fan Curve, as my Fan's aren't going above 850 RPM). Still, right in line with what @Optimus WC Told us to expect. I am incredibly happy with my block, and I have to say, It was definitely worth the wait!
> 
> Pics: (EDIT: My bad, posted this without the pics, just put them in.)
> 
> 
> Spoiler


How'd you clean off the thermal putty? Just wipe off the mass and clean the remaining with alcohol?


----------



## oreonutz

originxt said:


> How'd you clean off the thermal putty? Just wipe off the mass and clean the remaining with alcohol?


Yup! I had never dealt with thermal Putty before, so it was the one part of this I was unfamiliar with, but turned out to literally feel just like dried Paste. Actually the Paste that EVGA Puts on the Die was a lot harder to get off then the Putty. The Putty I didn't even need alcohol for until the end, It came right up with my Microfiber cloth, and just pushed it all to the edge and and then dumped into the trash. That Hard ass thermal paste on the die EVGA uses now, I had to let soak in 99% Rubbing Alcohol for about 5 mins before it finally easily came up. 

But yeah, wasn't hard at all. The Directions @Optimus WC Provided were perfect. In fact, the only question I had was for the intended Path Flow. I am pretty sure I am right, but wanted to make sure.

If Looking at Block in the orientation of the picture below (so looking at the Plexi Side with the Terminal at the top) the Inlet is supposed to be on the left, and the Outlet on the right, correct @Optimus WC ?


----------



## Optimus WC

oreonutz said:


> If Looking at Block in the orientation of the picture below (so looking at the Plexi Side with the Terminal at the top) the Inlet is supposed to be on the left, and the Outlet on the right, correct @Optimus WC ?


Correct


----------



## oreonutz

Also, @Zurv Was not lying. This thing is HEAVY! I mean we all knew that was going to be the case, but I did not expect it to be THIS Heavy. I was too impatient to go dig up my scale to throw it on, But just perception wise, its easily twice the weight (probably more) fully assembled but without fluid than my 1080ti FTW3 with an EK Block and Completely filled. 

Right now I have my Case Lying on its side, Working on a Solution to help support the weight when I stand the case up. 

Also, something else I noticed is the Optimus Block is less Restrictive than my 1080ti EK Block for what its worth. I am using the same exact tubing at the same exact length, also with the Same QDC's that I was using with my 1080ti, the loop was never even drained so its exactly as it was, the only change is the 1080ti with its EK Block is now the 3080 with its Optimus Block, and with my Pumps at the exact same speed, My flow has increased from 183 L/h to 204 L/h. Not a MASSIVE Difference, but definitely a difference.


----------



## Arctucas

JustinThyme said:


> Nothing to be had outside of the Optimus and the EK magnitude that’s much more expensive. The improvement over a heat killer got me a solid 3C better with both with another 200MHZ in the OC.
> I tried a supremacy EVO before I went to the Heatkiller that was a decent improvement over the supremacy. What are you running now?


I have HK IV Pro Nickel.

9900K, direct die with Conductonaut.

@5000MHz, 1.21VCore Adaptive, Default VDroop, it idles 9°C or 10°C above ambient.

Load temperatures are not bad, are they?


----------



## straha20

@Optimus WC Are you still on schedule to get all of the rest of the batch 1 blocks out tomorrow?


----------



## Shawnb99

Is the inlet/outlet marked in any way? Im sure I’ll end up mixing it up since I’m upside down and all


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> Is the inlet/outlet marked in any way? Im sure I’ll end up mixing it up since I’m upside down and all


Not that I have noticed at all, unless its really subtle. But the inlet is the side that flows directly over the die, while the outlet is off to the side.


----------



## whaleboy_4096

Can I assume that if you are mounting the block normally on the MB (horizontal), then some sort of extra support is advised, if not required? I don't recall that being mentioned anywhere...


----------



## oreonutz

whaleboy_4096 said:


> Can I assume that if you are mounting the block normally on the MB (horizontal), then some sort of extra support is advised, if not required? I don't recall that being mentioned anywhere...


Its a good Question for @Optimus WC . I am sure they have done testing on this on a few boards, and since they never mentioned it I would assume they deemed it fine. But that said, It is really heavy. I don't want to YOLO it and find out what happens if I stand up the Case with the only support being the normal 2 IO Bracket Screws. I think it may be a good idea to at least get one of those Sag Brackets that provides extra support, if not some more clever support idea that looks better. But, I have not tested this, so can not say for sure.

This block is an absolute BEAST Though, so would say this is a good problem to have, lol.


----------



## originxt

whaleboy_4096 said:


> Can I assume that if you are mounting the block normally on the MB (horizontal), then some sort of extra support is advised, if not required? I don't recall that being mentioned anywhere...


It was mentioned many many pages back that they recommend some support due to the weight of the block.


----------



## oreonutz

originxt said:


> It was mentioned many many pages back that they recommend some support due to the weight of the block.


I Missed that, so My bad. Disregard my assumptions then. Makes sense, this Baby Thick! (Isn't that what the kids say, lol)


----------



## originxt

oreonutz said:


> I Missed that, so My bad. Disregard my assumptions then. Makes sense, this Baby Thick! (Isn't that what the kids say, lol)


It was 2.5lbs for just the copper itself supposedly. Add acrylic and maybe 2.5-3lbs. Might be good to add at minimum one of those gpu support stands since it's heavier than even the ftw3 cooler itself.


----------



## asdf893

Cut a piece of ZMT tubing to length to support the overhanging GPU/block corner. That's what I've done to support my GPU tray.


----------



## whaleboy_4096

asdf893 said:


> Cut a piece of ZMT tubing to length to support the overhanging GPU/block corner. That's what I've done to support my GPU tray.


I'm having trouble picturing this, ZMT is soft tubing, how would that support the block? FWIW, I already have a support that I purchased, but I'm just curious.


----------



## asdf893

whaleboy_4096 said:


> I'm having trouble picturing this, ZMT is soft tubing, how would that support the block? FWIW, I already have a support that I purchased, but I'm just curious.


Might depend on how big your case is and the wall thickness of the ZMT. I have 10mm/16mm ZMT (9.5mm ID according to EK) so it doesn't bend or fold when pressed. There are better options out there I'm sure


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Correct


After using your hard tubing fittings more often as I switch parts, etc. I really like the gasket locking mechanism you use.


----------



## whaleboy_4096

asdf893 said:


> Might depend on how big your case is and the wall thickness of the ZMT. I have 10mm/16mm ZMT (9.5mm ID according to EK) so it doesn't bend or fold when pressed. There are better options out there I'm sure


Where do you put the tubing? Maybe you have a completely different style of case. Does your card sit very close to the bottom? If you only have an inch or so, then that would make sense (the way I picture it). My case has a 7 or so inch gap between the bottom of the card and the floor of the case, so anything flexible won't work, unless I am completely misunderstanding what you are doing with the tubing.


----------



## oreonutz

asdf893 said:


> Cut a piece of ZMT tubing to length to support the overhanging GPU/block corner. That's what I've done to support my GPU tray.





whaleboy_4096 said:


> Where do you put the tubing? Maybe you have a completely different style of case. Does your card sit very close to the bottom? If you only have an inch or so, then that would make sense (the way I picture it). My case has a 7 or so inch gap between the bottom of the card and the floor of the case, so anything flexible won't work, unless I am completely misunderstanding what you are doing with the tubing.


I also am having a problem envisioning what you mean by cutting "a piece of ZMT tubing to length to support the overhanging GPU/block corner." I am guessing you are not talking about using a Peice of Tube to sit between the Power Supply Shroud and the Bottom of the GPU. You must be talking about Wedging it somewhere else, maybe like behind the card or something??? I am not quite sure, would be awesome if you describe with a little more detail what you mean so we can envision it. 

Definitely have me curious.


----------



## asdf893

Not having instructions in the package is silly. Would've been nice to not have to pull up a forum post on my phone during installation.


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> I also am having a problem envisioning what you mean by cutting "a piece of ZMT tubing to length to support the overhanging GPU/block corner." I am guessing you are not talking about using a Peice of Tube to sit between the Power Supply Shroud and the Bottom of the GPU. You must be talking about Wedging it somewhere else, maybe like behind the card or something??? I am not quite sure, would be awesome if you describe with a little more detail what you mean so we can envision it.
> 
> Definitely have me curious.


Vertical mount seems like your best bet. There's one made by bitspower that seems very sturdy. And on Amazon you can get pcie 4.0 riser cables. I have one of those cables and no issues for me on my Asus board/EVGA gpu.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Yeah, the Bitspower GPU bracket is MONEY.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Is the inlet/outlet marked in any way? Im sure I’ll end up mixing it up since I’m upside down and all


can’t say on this block as I’ve not had one but in every GPU block I’ve ever seen the inlet is on the same side where the display outputs are. Not saying they didn’t swap it up. One never knows. My CPU block came with the block, hardware and crappy ceramique TIM which promptly went in the trash and kryonaut was used instead.


----------



## OutOfScope

@Optimus WC

Any idea when you'll be opening up for more orders of the Foundation AM4 block?


----------



## LikelyNotTheNSA

asdf893 said:


> Not having instructions in the package is silly. Would've been nice to not have to pull up a forum post on my phone during installation.


This is becoming a standard across all industries to not include installation instructions to save on paper/waste.

Admittedly, they should include a QR code on the box or something so that installation instructions are quick and easy to find.


----------



## asdf893

first impressions are great but I haven't stressed or benchmarked it yet because I'm nervous until I get the air bubble out.


http://imgur.com/npSoCWR


----------



## RichKnecht

I’m not a gamer, but i would buy a better card just to get that block. It looks awesome.


----------



## straha20

@Optimus WC So are we still on track to finish shipping batch 1 today?


----------



## JGH_pc

straha20 said:


> @Optimus WC So are we still on track to finish shipping batch 1 today?


I'm interested to see if they hit this date.

Also, @Optimus WC quick question. Do you have everything in stock for the Batch 2 orders and are just working through assembly and shipping for them? Or are you still waiting on some components to come in / machining to finish?


----------



## straha20

JGH_pc said:


> I'm interested to see if they hit this date.
> 
> Also, @Optimus WC quick question. Do you have everything in stock for the Batch 2 orders and are just working through assembly and shipping for them? Or are you still waiting on some components to come in / machining to finish?


Their post from Friday...









Optimus Waterblock







www.overclock.net





I have asked a couple times over the weekend if they are still on track, with no response. We shall see I guess.


----------



## JGH_pc

straha20 said:


> Their post from Friday...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimus Waterblock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have asked a couple times over the weekend if they are still on track, with no response. We shall see I guess.


I wouldn't expect them to finish today like they had indicated, although it would be a very nice surprise / good sign if they did. I'm in batch 2 so it only transitively benefits me that they finish batch 1 today. That said, it would be really nice to see them actually hit a date they provided for the benefit of all those batch 1 folks.


----------



## straha20

JGH_pc said:


> I wouldn't expect them to finish today like they had indicated, although it would be a very nice surprise / good sign if they did. I'm in batch 2 so it only transitively benefits me that they finish batch 1 today. That said, it would be really nice to see them actually hit a date they provided for the benefit of all those batch 1 folks.


If they don't hit the date today, that's pretty bad considering they gave the date less than 72 hours ago... Weeks out, depending on outside coordination is one thing, but an internal date, easily measurable in hours...that would be pretty bad.


----------



## JGH_pc

straha20 said:


> If they don't hit the date today, that's pretty bad considering they gave the date less than 72 hours ago... Weeks out, depending on outside coordination is one thing, but an internal date, easily measurable in hours...that would be pretty bad.


I don't believe it till I see it with these guys, track record says otherwise.

However, I am rooting for them to do it. I want to see these guys succeed and hitting some dates is good for them and all us customers so I got my fingers crossed for you buddy.


----------



## agentdark45

Is there a block install/stock cooler disassembly guide for the FTW3 blocks? EK has pretty good instructions when I did my Strix 2080ti, but I'd settle for a video that I can follow along to.


----------



## JGH_pc

agentdark45 said:


> Is there a block install/stock cooler disassembly guide for the FTW3 blocks? EK has pretty good instructions when I did my Strix 2080ti, but I'd settle for a video that I can follow along to.


GN did a tear down.


----------



## dwolvin

If anyone with a normal case is worried about video card sag, Amazon has nice supports pretty cheap- I used that one in my Fractal Define XL for a few years (but am in a P3 now and might need to move to a vertical mount)


----------



## JustinThyme

About the time AM5 is released.


----------



## straha20

JGH_pc said:


> I don't believe it till I see it with these guys, track record says otherwise.
> 
> However, I am rooting for them to do it. I want to see these guys succeed and hitting some dates is good for them and all us customers so I got my fingers crossed for you buddy.


Yeah, my personal concern is that I was one of the last orders at the very end of batch 1, and have not seen much to inspire confidence that I will actually receive my block as part of batch 1.


----------



## JustinThyme

dwolvin said:


> If anyone with a normal case is worried about video card sag, Amazon has nice supports pretty cheap- I used that one in my Fractal Define XL for a few years (but am in a P3 now and might need to move to a vertical mount)


yea those work very well and can be placed anywhere to the right. They don’t stand out like a sore thumb and can often be 99% hidden to the far right of the card. Feet are adjustable. I actually like these for horizontal mounts.


----------



## WayWayUp

straha20 said:


> Yeah, my personal concern is that I was one of the last orders at the very end of batch 1, and have not seen much to inspire confidence that I will actually receive my block as part of batch 1.


not quite sure they will hit that target as i purchased the 19th and still havent received shipping and i believe you said you are the 20th?
I'm still optimistic and hope to see something in my email today


----------



## LikelyNotTheNSA

WayWayUp said:


> not quite sure they will hit that target as i purchased the 19th and still havent received shipping and i believe you said you are the 20th?
> I'm still optimistic and hope to see something in my email today


Also on the 19th. The window to redeem my GeForce Now membership ends in a few days, and COD isn't too far after that IIRC. Might have to take apart the build I have all done (except for the tubing to and from the GPU) so I can air-cool it and at least redeem my codes...


----------



## straha20

WayWayUp said:


> not quite sure they will hit that target as i purchased the 19th and still havent received shipping and i believe you said you are the 20th?
> I'm still optimistic and hope to see something in my email today


Yep. October 20 10:31 am.

Hitting a target months out can be a challenge, but this one was a target set only three days ago. Still hoping though.


----------



## oreonutz

JGH_pc said:


> GN did a tear down.


I had this very tear down up on my PC while Tearing down the 3080. (I threw my 1080ti back in my Rig, just to have my PC Up to reference the Directions and this video up on screen, and wanted to compare the Flow rate of these 2 Blocks using the same exact Tubing Length, QDC's, and Flow Path.) 

It helped a bit actually. Most of it is obvious if you are used to tearing down cards. But things like Hidden Screws or Lack There of are always good to have advanced knowledge of, as well as knowing where to expect hidden cables once the cooler is loose, so you don't rip anything out accidently. Obviously anyone paying attention to what they are doing could do it without, but still, since it exists, I decided to throw it up anyway, and in that way it was helpful. Plus I forgot about Joe stealing the card from Steve, that was funny. lol.


----------



## oreonutz

LikelyNotTheNSA said:


> Also on the 19th. The window to redeem my GeForce Now membership ends in a few days, and COD isn't too far after that IIRC. Might have to take apart the build I have all done (except for the tubing to and from the GPU) so I can air-cool it and at least redeem my codes...


If you need help reedeming your codes, let me know, will help you. ( I already redeemed my code, I don't need more, but I have the hardware to pass the check, so I could redeem on your account (or have you remote in and let you type your PWs and all that yourself to redeem yourself and then let you log yourself out)). 

Also, You do not need to be on your Hardware to claim your Geforce Now Benefits. You can do that from any Computer in a Browser. But you DO NEED the 3080 in your PC to claim your Watchdogs/COD Game. So definitely want to do that before the expiration.


----------



## oreonutz

straha20 said:


> Yep. October 20 10:31 am.
> 
> Hitting a target months out can be a challenge, but this one was a target set only three days ago. Still hoping though.


I don't think they would come on here and say that unless they really believed it. However, based on past history, I would not expect the very last email to go out until end of day today if they are able to keep their schedule. But I would expect them to be sending out email notifications throughout the day, probably in batches at Morning and Early Evening for UPS/USPS Pickup times. I know thats when I got my Notification last week, it was when USPS Picked up the Block from them, so if I had to guess thats how I would think it would go down today. Fingers Crossed for you guys.

This block was definitely worth the wait!


----------



## asdf893

@Optimus WC I only received 5 of the 6 medium-length screws needed. Also could I swap my pewter plugs for black plugs?


----------



## JGH_pc

@Optimus WC 

Still tracking to have all of batch 1 shipped today?

I think everyone in batch 1 and later batches would feel a lot better if you start hitting some of these shipping dates.


----------



## straha20

JGH_pc said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Still tracking to have all of batch 1 shipped today?
> 
> I think everyone in batch 1 and later batches would feel a lot better if you start hitting some of these shipping dates.


Have not received anything on my end here. I'm starting to think that the assurances on Friday that they'd be all done by today were a bit premature. Missing a date that is only three days out is pretty rough.


----------



## LikelyNotTheNSA

oreonutz said:


> If you need help reedeming your codes, let me know, will help you. ( I already redeemed my code, I don't need more, but I have the hardware to pass the check, so I could redeem on your account (or have you remote in and let you type your PWs and all that yourself to redeem yourself and then let you log yourself out)).
> 
> Also, You do not need to be on your Hardware to claim your Geforce Now Benefits. You can do that from any Computer in a Browser. But you DO NEED the 3080 in your PC to claim your Watchdogs/COD Game. So definitely want to do that before the expiration.


Got the GeForce Now redeemed, thanks for that information. That buys me enough time that I should be able had out for COD. Thanks for the info and the offer!


----------



## oreonutz

LikelyNotTheNSA said:


> Got the GeForce Now redeemed, thanks for that information. That buys me enough time that I should be able had out for COD. Thanks for the info and the offer!


No Problem! Always glad to help!


----------



## Recipe7

@Optimus WC 

Let us know when b-stock and/or normal ordering is available. Still on track for the end of the month?


----------



## BULLGOD19

straha20 said:


> Have not received anything on my end here. I'm starting to think that the assurances on Friday that they'd be all done by today were a bit premature. Missing a date that is only three days out is pretty rough.


No shipping notification here, you get anything?


----------



## straha20

BULLGOD19 said:


> No shipping notification here, you get anything?


Nope. Not a thing.


----------



## JGH_pc

Did batch 1 finish yesterday?


----------



## straha20

JGH_pc said:


> Did batch 1 finish yesterday?


I sure hope not, otherwise they sold a bunch of blocks as batch 1 blocks that they didn't actually have. So it's clear that those of us who have not received our blocks didn't fall into the timeframe given a few days ago of batch 1 being complete by yesterday, so either they are not done with batch1, or we were sold batch 1 blocks that weren't actually part of batch1 even though we were told they were.

@Optimus WC So is it just another missed deadline, or is there something else going on? Did you actually have all the parts needed for batch 1, and actually in hand and not waiting on other things when you stated Friday that batch 1 would be complete by Monday? Did you oversell or under produce batch 1 blocks?


----------



## JGH_pc

I'm really close to just ordering a Byski block off of ali-express at this point. Hard to believe but I have more faith in a chineese seller from a chineese market place than I do Optimus at this point.

Obviously the Optimus block would be better. But they are clearly not being honest, or forthcoming with us at all about this situation. Don't forget before this last "Monday 12/21" deadline promise, they said all batch1 would be shipped before EOW of 12/14.


----------



## straha20

JGH_pc said:


> I'm really close to just ordering a Byski block off of ali-express at this point. Hard to believe but I have more faith in a chineese seller from a chineese market place than I do Optimus at this point.
> 
> Obviously the Optimus block would be better. But they are clearly not being honest, or forthcoming with us at all about this situation. Don't forget before this last "Monday 12/21" deadline promise, they said all batch1 would be shipped before EOW of 12/14.


Missing a date months, or even weeks out, especially when those dates depend on things out of ones control, is one thing, but missing a date 72 hours out when presumably all of the parts are in hand, and the assembly and shipping process had been going for over a week already, when there is a really solid idea of exactly how quickly the process takes, how many blocks can be completed per day, how many orders there are to fulfill...something just doesn't quite add up.


----------



## straha20

Just send another contact form that I fully expect to be ignored asking what's up with the batch 1 blocks. Given the short range 72 hour timeframe and certainty from last Friday, I really have to wonder if they didn't just over sell batch 1 blocks.


----------



## JGH_pc

straha20 said:


> Just send another contact form that I fully expect to be ignored asking what's up with the batch 1 blocks. Given the short range 72 hour timeframe and certainty from last Friday, I really have to wonder if they didn't just over sell batch 1 blocks.


I found an ali express vendor with Byski 3080/3090 FTW3 Ultra blocks in stock that offered $32 UPS Express (2-3day air) shipping. It had a promised date of 12/31 but likely sooner given the UPS next day a guarantee on that service level. It was $150 total with backplate and block.

I honestly can't justify supporting Optimus at this juncture. I strongly suggest others who feel the same way to do the same.

As soon as I get the pickup notification from UPS I am going to cancel my Optimus order.


----------



## WayWayUp

i dont believe they have received all their blocks back from the various processes and are receiving them back in small batches

I mean, otherwise they are assembling just a couple every day. These are waterblocks not boeing 747s
Anyways I still haven't received shipping notification and i bought batch 1 on the first day (relatively early in fact)

maybe today? problem is i dont know what to think since everything they say is wrong. for all i know i wont get it this year


----------



## straha20

WayWayUp said:


> *i dont believe they have received all their blocks back from the various processes and are receiving them back in small batches*
> 
> I mean, otherwise they are assembling just a couple every day. These are waterblocks not boeing 747s
> Anyways I still haven't received shipping notification and i bought batch 1 on the first day (relatively early in fact)
> 
> maybe today? problem is i dont know what to think since everything they say is wrong. for all i know i wont get it this year


That makes sense. In fact, I asked them that point blank a few times over the past several days, right here in this thread that they have been posting in, and of course there was no response.

But if that is accurate, it would send a really ominous message that their status statement on Friday was a flat out misrepresentation.


----------



## JustinThyme

Batch #1 is just a cut off date of orders. If they actually had the blocks people wouldn’t be sitting around for 6 months waiting on shipping. What I don’t like is taking peoples money with no set ship date. Actually not completely on the up and up. I’ve done preorders for other items elsewhere and not one of them took my money until the Item was being processed for shipping.
By the book you are supposed to get a tentative ship date on anything ordered and be contacted if that date is not met and given the option to cancel. If no date is given then that window is 30 days. That is law governed by the FTC.

while I would hate to see it as I love the competition, practices like this usually put a company under. For all we know it’s a Ponzi scheme and new orders are paying for the raw materials to make past due orders.


----------



## oreonutz

JustinThyme said:


> Batch #1 is just a cut off date of orders. If they actually had the blocks people wouldn’t be sitting around for 6 months waiting on shipping. What I don’t like is taking peoples money with no set ship date. Actually not completely on the up and up. I’ve done preorders for other items elsewhere and not one of them took my money until the Item was being processed for shipping.
> By the book you are supposed to get a tentative ship date on anything ordered and be contacted if that date is not met and given the option to cancel. If no date is given then that window is 30 days. That is law governed by the FTC.
> 
> while I would hate to see it as I love the competition, practices like this usually put a company under. For all we know it’s a Ponzi scheme and new orders are paying for the raw materials to make past due orders.



**** I wish I would have known that law. B&H Photo, TigerDirect, ANTOnline, and a few more guys would all have lawsuits from me for taking my Money for my 3080 and 5950x Orders, where they took my money, and I STILL don't have one of those damn products. Obviously I ended up getting them elsewhere, but I left a 3080 Strix on PreOrder with AntOnline and a 5950x with B&H Photo, and I am STILL Yet to get my damn order, and its been well over 30 days for both orders.


----------



## JGH_pc

JustinThyme said:


> while I would hate to see it as I love the competition, practices like this usually put a company under. F*or all we know it’s a Ponzi scheme and new orders are paying for the raw materials to make past due orders*.


That might actually be true. These guys might actually be violating commerce rules and I hadn't considered that. It sucks because the block LOOKS amazing. But damn, too many red flags at this point for me.


----------



## Shawnb99

what red flags? Delays during a pandemic? OMG it must be a scam then. What are you all ****ing children? Don’t preorder then.


----------



## JGH_pc

oreonutz said:


> **** I wish I would have known that law. B&H Photo, TigerDirect, ANTOnline, and a few more guys would all have lawsuits from me for taking my Money for my 3080 and 5950x Orders, where they took my money, and I STILL don't have one of those damn products. Obviously I ended up getting them elsewhere, but I left a 3080 Strix on PreOrder with AntOnline and a 5950x with B&H Photo, and I am STILL Yet to get my damn order, and its been well over 30 days for both orders.


Good point, it's probably on the up and up.


----------



## JGH_pc

Shawnb99 said:


> what red flags? Delays during a pandemic? OMG it must be a scam then. What are you all ****ing children? Don’t preorder then.


Maybe they shouldn't constantly give dates they then miss without explanation. It's a pandemic sure. But their behavior and track record are making me not want to give them money. If they just said "yeah we are behind by 1mo" instead of "soon", "done by monday" I'd feel differently.


----------



## Shawnb99

JGH_pc said:


> Maybe they shouldn't constantly give dates they then miss without explanation. It's a pandemic sure. But their behavior and track record are making me not want to give them money. If they just said "yeah we are behind by 1mo" instead of "soon", "done by monday" I'd feel differently.


Then don’t. Cancel your order and stop your bitching. You’re all acting like spoiled little children who can’t wait for their toy


----------



## straha20

Shawnb99 said:


> what red flags? Delays during a pandemic? OMG it must be a scam then. What are you all ****ing children? Don’t preorder then.


They had maintained plausible deniability and things out of their control up until last Friday. When they come out and say all the batch 1 blocks would be assembled and shipped within 72 hours, that strongly implies that they have all the parts and pieces and bits and bobbles to complete them. They had been assembling and shipping the blocks for several days already, so they knew exactly how long the process took, so not meeting that deadline of yesterday is beyond plausible deniability.

They were posing and responding here over the weekend and gave no indication of anything being wrong, and chose not to reply when asked point blank if they were still on track. Something is not right here.


----------



## Shawnb99

There are no lies, no scams, no nothing. Just a bunch of people bitching that can’t wait. The only thing not right is how people are acting.


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> Then don’t. Cancel your order and stop your bitching. You’re all acting like spoiled little children who can’t wait for their toy





JGH_pc said:


> Maybe they shouldn't constantly give dates they then miss without explanation. It's a pandemic sure. But their behavior and track record are making me not want to give them money. If they just said "yeah we are behind by 1mo" instead of "soon", "done by monday" I'd feel differently.



Wait wait wait wait....

Before you guys can continue, can you give me like 6 mins real quick. I gotta go heat up a thing of popcorn...


----------



## JGH_pc

Shawnb99 said:


> Then don’t. Cancel your order and stop your bitching. You’re all acting like spoiled little children who can’t wait for their toy


I am.

Imagine being this much of an apologist for a company lmao.


----------



## straha20

Shawnb99 said:


> There are no lies, no scams, no nothing. Just a bunch of people bitching that can’t wait. The only thing not right is how people are acting.


It may not have been a "lie" on Friday, but it was absolutely a plain and simple misrepresentation.


----------



## Shawnb99

straha20 said:


> It may not have been a "lie" on Friday, but it was absolutely a plain and simple misrepresentation.


Cancel your order then. Why would you buy from a company that lied to you? Why would you trust them at all?


----------



## oreonutz

OK, Ok. I am back now. I am sorry. Please Continue...


----------



## straha20

Shawnb99 said:


> Cancel your order then. Why would you buy from a company that lied to you? Why would you trust them at all?


If I had any inkling that this is how they would do business, I would have done things differently. My mistake for sure, but I have a build that is designed in part around the aesthetic of this block with other parts I already have in hand, so it is not quite simply cancelling my order or else I absolutely would. That said, they have taught me my lesson for sure.


----------



## Section31

JGH_pc said:


> I'm really close to just ordering a Byski block off of ali-express at this point. Hard to believe but I have more faith in a chineese seller from a chineese market place than I do Optimus at this point.
> 
> Obviously the Optimus block would be better. But they are clearly not being honest, or forthcoming with us at all about this situation. Don't forget before this last "Monday 12/21" deadline promise, they said all batch1 would be shipped before EOW of 12/14.


I assume you are going to get the ekwb/heatkiller one right? Most who get the bykski/alphacool here are doing so as temporary block.

Welcome to spend double on an block that is difficult to resell lol.

I am figuring out what to do with an unshipped group buy keyboard (kdbfans bella)i no longer want. I joined the e7-v2 group buy instead. Not huge market and difficult to resell at cost. Fortunate i changed shipping to mother-in-law address in china, i have the option of 100% refund and cheap shipping costs.


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> **** I wish I would have known that law. B&H Photo, TigerDirect, ANTOnline, and a few more guys would all have lawsuits from me for taking my Money for my 3080 and 5950x Orders, where they took my money, and I STILL don't have one of those damn products. Obviously I ended up getting them elsewhere, but I left a 3080 Strix on PreOrder with AntOnline and a 5950x with B&H Photo, and I am STILL Yet to get my damn order, and its been well over 30 days for both orders.


B&H 5950x not that bad. The orders are nearing 10am pst. My friend at 9:45pst got there. Its an nice safety net for me. So there email timing aren’t bad, probably early to mid January for me. I’m at 11:22pst. 

I am in Canada where supply is even more crap so i don’t lose much difference. The resale prices are high too so i can resell an used 5800x at cost.


----------



## Section31

I really should get this thread closed at this point.


----------



## JGH_pc

Section31 said:


> I assume you are going to get the ekwb/heatkiller one right? Most who get the bykski/alphacool here are doing so as temporary block.
> 
> Welcome to spend double on an block that is difficult to resell lol.
> 
> I am figuring out what to do with an unshipped group buy keyboard (kdbfans bella)i no longer want. I joined the e7-v2 group buy instead. Not huge market and difficult to resell at cost. Fortunate i changed shipping to mother-in-law address in china, i have the option of 100% refund and cheap shipping costs.


Byski. But no, I'll probably keep it for the life of the card. I upgrade GPU when 4080 or w/e comes out. I'm only going to have the block for 24mo or something. It doesn't need to be a $400 block.

Next upgrade cycle, I'll probably not buy the first GPU I can and get one with a block or options available when that time comes.

My Byski CPU block has been fully adequate.


----------



## Section31

JGH_pc said:


> Byski. But no, I'll probably keep it for the life of the card. I upgrade GPU when 4080 or w/e comes out. I'm only going to have the block for 24mo or something. It doesn't need to be a $400 block.
> 
> Next upgrade cycle, I'll probably not buy the first GPU I can and get one with a block or options available when that time comes.
> 
> My Byski CPU block has been fully adequate.


This cycle was bad because nvidia had no pure reference (founders becomes custom pcb). Otherwise there’s no point to buy aib overclock cards except the kingpin maybe. We all ended up paying 200-300usd more for some marginally better overclocked card lol.


----------



## LikelyNotTheNSA

Got my shipping notification -10:30PM order time


----------



## straha20

Section31 said:


> This cycle was bad because nvidia had no pure reference (founders becomes custom pcb). Otherwise there’s no point to buy aib overclock cards except the kingpin maybe. We all ended up paying 200-300usd more for some marginally better overclocked card lol.


This is a great point that caused a lot of confusion.


----------



## Section31

LikelyNotTheNSA said:


> Got my shipping notification -10:30PM order time


Thank you for the good news.


----------



## straha20

LikelyNotTheNSA said:


> Got my shipping notification -10:30PM order time


10:30pm order time on what day again? October 19?

Upgrading us to over night shipping would be a very nice gesture of goodwill.


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> This is a great point that caused a lot of confusion.


I also wonder how many people are loosing there mind at this point. Not only here (i am essential worker so have to show up at the office - over here, accountants are deemed essential and smaller firms are never setup for long term remote work). I am noticing with clients, staff, manager that they are emotionally unstable atm. Even some friends and family members same or getting extremely paranoid


----------



## Shawnb99

oreonutz said:


> Wait wait wait wait....
> 
> Before you guys can continue, can you give me like 6 mins real quick. I gotta go heat up a thing of popcorn...


It takes 6 minutes to make popcorn?




oreonutz said:


> OK, Ok. I am back now. I am sorry. Please Continue...


That was only 4 minutes, you running a Ponzi scam or something? Liar!!!


----------



## Section31

Anyway need to get back to orderly fashion, this thread might become what the other watercooling threads are like. Notice how heatkiller thread gone silent since Jakob left


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> It takes 6 minutes to make popcorn?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was only 4 minutes, you running a Ponzi scam or something? Liar!!!


I thought it was 5! 

And I just pressed the Popcorn button on my Microwave, its magic man, I don't ask questions, I just take it out when it beeps at me! lol.

But, I mean, I am down for the Ponzi Scheme too, I guess someone should be paying me though huh??? Any takers???


----------



## oreonutz

Section31 said:


> Anyway need to get back to orderly fashion, this thread might become what the other watercooling threads are like. Notice how heatkiller thread gone silent since Jakob left


Hey come on man, we can have a little fun, can't we? LOL!


----------



## LikelyNotTheNSA

straha20 said:


> 10:30pm order time on what day again? October 19?
> 
> Upgrading us to over night shipping would be a very nice gesture of goodwill.


19th


----------



## Section31

Its really nice having place to discuss and give constructive feedback to optimus. That and we don’t want to be shocked at new releases like aquacomputer does to us. I doubt we know about know what heatkiller working on without Jakob around.


----------



## oreonutz

LikelyNotTheNSA said:


> Got my shipping notification -10:30PM order time


That's really good news. Hopefully all the people on twitter get theres soon too. Delays happen, just would be awesome to see some kind of communication when they do so people aren't left scratching their heads. Crap happens though, people should have them soon, and they really are worth the wait!


----------



## oreonutz

Section31 said:


> Its really nice having place to discuss and give constructive feedback to optimus. That and we don’t want to be shocked at new releases like aquacomputer does to us. I doubt we know about know what heatkiller working on without Jakob around.


I hear that. 

This is the ONE Thread I check still at OCN. So I guess I just tend to use it to talk to all you fine people no matter the subject. I guess it doesn't bother me that there is 90000 pages, because if I want to know if Optimus posted news I simply use the search function and search by @Optimus WC And then all their posts come up. But I guess not everyone realizes its that easy.


----------



## Shawnb99

oreonutz said:


> I thought it was 5!
> 
> And I just pressed the Popcorn button on my Microwave, its magic man, I don't ask questions, I just take it out when it beeps at me! lol.
> 
> But, I mean, I am down for the Ponzi Scheme too, I guess someone should be paying me though huh??? Any takers???


The microwave lied, this must be a big conspiracy where Optimus is secretly trying to overcook popcorn and delaying water blocks and making us all fight and eat popcorn. Somehow making the radiation kill us so they can take over the world. If they lied about the time to ship the blocks what else have they been lying to us about? Are they even from Chicago, has anyone looked into this?


----------



## straha20

oreonutz said:


> That's really good news. Hopefully all the people on twitter get theres soon too. Delays happen, just would be awesome to see some kind of communication when they do so people aren't left scratching their heads. Crap happens though, people should have them soon, and they really are worth the wait!


It is good news, but I certainly hope that Optimus learns from this. Especially their short term time estimates.


----------



## originxt

Also got my shipping notification at 8:30. Also upgraded my shipping as requested from priority to 2nd day Air via ups which was nice. I asked a few times for copper instead of nickel, hopefully it gets changed but I'm not fussing over it since it'll be horizontal mounted anyways. Hopefully gets here by the 24th.


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> The microwave lied, this must be a big conspiracy where Optimus is secretly trying to overcook popcorn and delaying water blocks and making us all fight and eat popcorn. Somehow making the radiation kill us so they can take over the world. If they lied about the time to ship the blocks what else have they been lying to us about? Are they even from Chicago, has anyone looked into this?


Actually. If you look at the shipping label they send the Block in with a times 10 Magnifying glass, and then you overlay the sticker underneath right at 5pm so the sun aligns just right into the window, and then you get out a black light, you will see a projection of a dancing Egyptian for 3 quarters of a second. 

I think its clear. Optimus is actually from Greece. They are Descendants of Ptolemy. And they are here to start the Newish World Order. Don't say I didn't warn you...


...I will see myself out now...


----------



## Shawnb99

oreonutz said:


> Actually. If you look at the shipping label they send the Block in with a times 10 Magnifying glass, and then you overlay the sticker underneath right at 5pm so the sun aligns just right into the window, and then you get out a black light, you will see a projection of a dancing Egyptian for 3 quarters of a second.
> 
> I think its clear. Optimus is actually from Greece. They are Descendants of Ptolemy. And they are here to start the Newish World Order. Don't say I didn't warn you...
> 
> 
> ...I will see myself out now...


Every time I hear of the NWO I can’t help but think of






NWO 4 Life!


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> Every time I hear of the NWO I can’t help but think of
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NWO 4 Life!


Oh man. The Simpler times... I miss those days!

BROTHER!


----------



## asdf893

WayWayUp said:


> i dont believe they have received all their blocks back from the various processes and are receiving them back in small batches
> 
> I mean, otherwise they are assembling just a couple every day. These are waterblocks not boeing 747s
> Anyways I still haven't received shipping notification and i bought batch 1 on the first day (relatively early in fact)
> 
> maybe today? problem is i dont know what to think since everything they say is wrong. for all i know i wont get it this year


what time did you place your order?


----------



## originxt

asdf893 said:


> what time did you place your order?


To give reference to both people, I placed mine at 8:20pm pst. Guess I was considered a late order.


----------



## asdf893

JGH_pc said:


> I am.
> 
> Imagine being this much of an apologist for a company lmao.


LOL


----------



## oreonutz

asdf893 said:


> LOL


To be fair, its not about Defending any company for Shawn. At least from what I can tell from my time on the forum. Its more about stopping what he and some may percieve as constant whining on the thread. I can see how it may be easy to conflate the two, but that would be a mischaracterization, he can lay into them with the best of them, and has before.

Just FYI for anyone who cares.

Super glad you guys are all getting your Notifications today. As one of the 1st here to get my block, and probably the 3rd or 4th to install it, I can tell you this thing is fricking nice! I used to be in the 80c's when Playing Cyberpunk. Now I have a higher Overclock, a maxed out Power Limit, and a Shunt mod, and am now holding 2085 Flat and Stable (I was at 2025 Peak Before, and averaged more around 1995Mhz) and I am doing all that while not breaking 8c above water! Its damn nice!


----------



## Shawnb99

Hogan always had the best entrance music.


oreonutz said:


> To be fair, its not about Defending any company for Shawn. At least from what I can tell from my time on the forum. Its more about stopping what he and some may percieve as constant whining on the thread. I can see how it may be easy to conflate the two, but that would be a mischaracterization, he can lay into them with the best of them, and has before.



Thank you. Not defending the delays and broken promises. Just tired of the constant whining and acting like children. There's no need to start calling them liars and saying it's a Ponzi Scam. I get it you're upset, so am I. Act like the damn adults you are.


----------



## JustinThyme

Just a theory, don’t want to start a mass exodus as I’d love to see them survive. Don’t know what they are doing but it certainly isn’t meeting demand for the products. Why even bother having a webpage that every single product says sold out including fittings, hose clamps, reservoirs and most importantly water blocks. Literally everything. I’ve done preorders from B&H and they hit my card for like $1 that disappeared in a few days just to verify the account. If it’s out of the US it’s not covered by the FTC as US laws certainly can’t reach into another country. Antonline sells through Newegg a lot but I’ve never bought from them because their prices are always well above any others I looked at.
But yeah that’s all on FTC.GOV and they have a reporting tool for offenders covering any kind of commerce scam.









Report Fraud


Protect your community by reporting fraud, scams, and bad business practices




reportfraud.ftc.gov


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> Hogan always had the best entrance music.
> 
> Thank you.


NP. And Yeah He Did man! NWO! Those were really the days, BROTHER!


----------



## oreonutz

JustinThyme said:


> Just a theory, don’t want to start a mass exodus as I’d love to see them survive. Don’t know what they are doing but it certainly isn’t meeting demand for the products. Why even bother having a webpage that every single product says sold out including fittings, hose clamps, reservoirs and most importantly water blocks. Literally everything. *I’ve done preorders from B&H and they hit my card for like $1 that disappeared in a few days just to verify the account. If it’s out of the US it’s not covered by the FTC as US laws certainly can’t reach into another country.* Antonline sells through Newegg a lot but I’ve never bought from them because their prices are always well above any others I looked at.
> But yeah that’s all on FTC.GOV and they have a reporting tool for offenders covering any kind of commerce scam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Report Fraud
> 
> 
> Protect your community by reporting fraud, scams, and bad business practices
> 
> 
> 
> 
> reportfraud.ftc.gov


I don't know if thats how they used to do things, but it DEFINITELY 100 PERCENT is not how they do things now. I will happily Post my Debit Card Statement if you would like to see it, along with my Order number, and Proof of Address right here in good ol Las Vegas, NV. 100 Percent USA Baby. And literally within seconds, they took all $910 after tax. That was launch morning BTW, still waiting for my CPU.

I want my CPU, but I have a 5900x in the mean time so I am not tripping, but yeah, if this truly is illegal, they have some explaining to do. I know I am not the only one on this very forum who has a preorder still out with them.


----------



## originxt

JustinThyme said:


> Just a theory, don’t want to start a mass exodus as I’d love to see them survive. Don’t know what they are doing but it certainly isn’t meeting demand for the products. Why even bother having a webpage that every single product says sold out including fittings, hose clamps, reservoirs and most importantly water blocks. Literally everything. I’ve done preorders from B&H and they hit my card for like $1 that disappeared in a few days just to verify the account. If it’s out of the US it’s not covered by the FTC as US laws certainly can’t reach into another country. Antonline sells through Newegg a lot but I’ve never bought from them because their prices are always well above any others I looked at.
> But yeah that’s all on FTC.GOV and they have a reporting tool for offenders covering any kind of commerce scam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Report Fraud
> 
> 
> Protect your community by reporting fraud, scams, and bad business practices
> 
> 
> 
> 
> reportfraud.ftc.gov


Well they are 2 different entities... B&h is just a storefront with retail employees and a customer service team. Optimus produces and sells only their own products. In terms of allowing advance sales, as you can see with the current pre-order, you already have people frustrated over delays and shipping in Twitter and ocn. With the bulk of their manufacturing currently geared towards gpu blocks, they aren't making anything else. They've also stated they are moving to an in-stock only sale approach.

Unless they get more personnel and manufacturing capacity up, doesn't matter if they keep taking on more "pre-orders" if they aren't capable of fulfilling it. Might as well just list what they don't have oos in the meantime. Otherwise, you just have a bunch of people complaining about their delays. Doesn't help Optimus communication isn't exactly fast sometimes.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Hogan always had the best entrance music.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. Not defending the delays and broken promises. Just tired of the constant whining and acting like children. There's no need to start calling them liars and saying it's a Ponzi Scam. I get it you're upset, so am I. Act like the damn adults you are.


That man is literally forgotten. Career died hard in the early 90's. There's literally an shoe brand called Hogan too, wonder if its related to him. Kidding on that, its an sub-brand of italian shoe maker/designer tod's.


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> Well they are 2 different entities... Plus as you can see with the current pre-order, you already have people frustrated over delays and shipping in Twitter and ocn. With the bulk of their manufacturing currently geared towards gpu blocks, they aren't making anything else. They've also stated they are moving to an in-stock only sale approach.
> 
> Unless they get more personnel and manufacturing capacity up, doesn't matter if they keep taking on more "pre-orders" if they aren't capable of fulfilling it. Might as well just list what they don't have oos in the meantime. Otherwise, you just have a bunch of people complaining about their delays. Doesn't help Optimus communication isn't exactly fast sometimes.


I think scalpers should move onto scalping water cooling products soon. Actually it might be fun doing so too, tell them to place large order at aquacomputer,heatkiller then watch it takes 2months to produce and then watch them absorb large shipping fees + processing fees/import taxes. Then find out they can't make much profit on it.


----------



## oreonutz

Section31 said:


> I think scalpers should move onto scalping water cooling products soon. Actually it might be fun doing so too, tell them to place large order at aquacomputer,heatkiller then watch it takes 2months to produce and then watch them absorb large shipping fees + processing fees/import taxes. Then find out they can't make much profit on it.


Now that, Would make me smile...


----------



## oreonutz

FYI. We may have a few new users from Twitter coming in to possibly voice their frusteration. It was not I who sent them. Just wanted to give a heads up. (Thread was just mentioned.)


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> I think scalpers should move onto scalping water cooling products soon. Actually it might be fun doing so too, tell them to place large order at aquacomputer,heatkiller then watch it takes 2months to produce and then watch them absorb large shipping fees + processing fees/import taxes. Then find out they can't make much profit on it.


We should’ve done with the High Flow Next.


----------



## Shawnb99

oreonutz said:


> FYI. We may have a few new users from Twitter coming in to possibly voice their frusteration. It was not I who sent them. Just wanted to give a heads up. (Thread was just mentioned.)


Sure it wasn’t.... I believe you...... really I do.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hi everyone, we want to give you an update with exactly where we're at. We're shipping blocks, though the delays are definitely unfortunate. And the team really apologizes for the delays!!

STATUS UPDATE:

Most batch 1 will ship this tuesday (today) and wednesday
Batch 2 starts shipping next week, quantities and exact ETAs will be determined by nickel plating
*We're giving everyone 15% off discount for next order.*

DELAY SHORT STORY:

Taking time for plating to fix nickel QC issues
More time to QC parts and assembly

LONG STORY:

While we've done lots of nickel plating, we've been running into issues with the GPUs and QC. Our partner companies do our nickel processing, since it's toxic and specialized, we can't do it in our building. The first batches of blocks had defects in the range of 80-90%, meaning 90% didn't meet our standards and needed to be remade. We QCed the first units that came off the line to make sure they were good. When we received the rest, we discovered they didn't meet QC standards. We initially thought this was an isolated issue that could be quickly resolved, but it extended longer to where it delayed everything.

We've been going back and forth with the platers to make sure we don't have these issues and to expedite the blocks being plated. Because of the hard times right now, they have been delayed as they struggle with their own internal issues. Our timeline updates were based on their updates, so when they missed targets, we missed targets. We were given multiple dates, dates were missed or the quality of the parts wasn't A+.

The good news is the batches we received are now 90% good. We held off plating the remade blocks until we knew we wouldn't receive bad blocks.

So right now, all of batch 1 parts (save for 10%) are QCed and good to ship as soon as they are assembled. The 10% of people whose blocks aren't good will go out the week after. Batch 2 is going to plating right now in groups so we can make sure the plating is perfect, as we know the plating is correct, we'll be pushing more through. The exact dates for batch 2 are TBD, but it will be last week of december and then into early january. We're getting additional help to assemble the blocks at a rapid pace. With the covid situation in Chicago, we have been building out isolated assembly rooms so people can help without issues.

While not ideal, this is where we're at and the entire team here is working hard over the holidays to get absolutely everything made and shipped as soon as we can.


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Hi everyone, we want to give you an update with exactly where we're at. We're shipping blocks, though the delays are definitely unfortunate. And the team really apologizes for the delays!!
> 
> STATUS UPDATE:
> 
> Most batch 1 will ship this tuesday (today) and wednesday
> Batch 2 starts shipping next week, quantities and exact ETAs will be determined by nickel plating
> *We're giving everyone 15% off discount for next order.*
> 
> DELAY SHORT STORY:
> 
> Taking time for plating to fix nickel QC issues
> More time to QC parts and assembly
> 
> LONG STORY:
> 
> While we've done lots of nickel plating, we've been running into issues with the GPUs and QC. Our partner companies do our nickel processing, since it's toxic and specialized, we can't do it in our building. The first batches of blocks had defects in the range of 80-90%, meaning 90% didn't meet our standards and needed to be remade. We QCed the first units that came off the line to make sure they were good. When we received the rest, we discovered they didn't meet QC standards. We initially thought this was an isolated issue that could be quickly resolved, but it extended longer to where it delayed everything.
> 
> We've been going back and forth with the platers to make sure we don't have these issues and to expedite the blocks being plated. Because of the hard times right now, they have been delayed as they struggle with their own internal issues. Our timeline updates were based on their updates, so when they missed targets, we missed targets. We were given multiple dates, dates were missed or the quality of the parts wasn't A+.
> 
> The good news is the batches we received are now 90% good. We held off plating the remade blocks until we knew we wouldn't receive bad blocks.
> 
> So right now, all of batch 1 parts (save for 10%) are QCed and good to ship as soon as they are assembled. The 10% of people whose blocks aren't good will go out the week after. Batch 2 is going to plating right now in groups so we can make sure the plating is perfect, as we know the plating is correct, we'll be pushing more through. The exact dates for batch 2 are TBD, but it will be last week of december and then into early january. We're getting additional help to assemble the blocks at a rapid pace. With the covid situation in Chicago, we have been building out isolated assembly rooms so people can help without issues.
> 
> While not ideal, this is where we're at and the entire team here is working hard over the holidays to get absolutely everything made and shipped as soon as we can.


Hey Optimus, I absolutely love my block 1st. Great Job!

Second, I think all people care about is having an update. I think this was really appreciated. If you can just find a way to keep people up to day (Especially when missing a deadline you set yourself 3 days ago, and before that day comes up) It will go along way to keeping people settled down. I know I have beat this dead horse with you, and you are probably sick of me, but I want you to succeed man! I will update the rebelling Twitter guys now so they know.

Keep up the good work! Just keep people in the loop!

K, I will climb off my soap box now, and go enjoy my awesome and Cool 3080 (Thanks to a Quality Optimus Block)!


----------



## originxt

Section31 said:


> I think scalpers should move onto scalping water cooling products soon. Actually it might be fun doing so too, tell them to place large order at aquacomputer,heatkiller then watch it takes 2months to produce and then watch them absorb large shipping fees + processing fees/import taxes. Then find out they can't make much profit on it.


 This seems fine. I might want more rads and/or a bigger case at some point and I'll be glad to help them out with their "stock" after they absorb all those fees for me. 



Shawnb99 said:


> We should’ve done with the High Flow Next.


Was there a group buy on high flow next? Wish I saw it, would have saved me some money in shipping lol. Works great so far but the water quality meter might need to get tested. I'll need to run my tds pen on mayhems x1 with distilled to see what it's actually supposed to be. Otherwise, I need to do a full coolant change. 

By chance does anyone with e the high flow next have a clicking sound issue at higher flow rates?


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Hi everyone, we want to give you an update with exactly where we're at. We're shipping blocks, though the delays are definitely unfortunate. And the team really apologizes for the delays!!
> 
> STATUS UPDATE:
> 
> Most batch 1 will ship this tuesday (today) and wednesday
> Batch 2 starts shipping next week, quantities and exact ETAs will be determined by nickel plating
> *We're giving everyone 15% off discount for next order.*
> 
> DELAY SHORT STORY:
> 
> Taking time for plating to fix nickel QC issues
> More time to QC parts and assembly
> 
> LONG STORY:
> 
> While we've done lots of nickel plating, we've been running into issues with the GPUs and QC. Our partner companies do our nickel processing, since it's toxic and specialized, we can't do it in our building. The first batches of blocks had defects in the range of 80-90%, meaning 90% didn't meet our standards and needed to be remade. We QCed the first units that came off the line to make sure they were good. When we received the rest, we discovered they didn't meet QC standards. We initially thought this was an isolated issue that could be quickly resolved, but it extended longer to where it delayed everything.
> 
> We've been going back and forth with the platers to make sure we don't have these issues and to expedite the blocks being plated. Because of the hard times right now, they have been delayed as they struggle with their own internal issues. Our timeline updates were based on their updates, so when they missed targets, we missed targets. We were given multiple dates, dates were missed or the quality of the parts wasn't A+.
> 
> The good news is the batches we received are now 90% good. We held off plating the remade blocks until we knew we wouldn't receive bad blocks.
> 
> So right now, all of batch 1 parts (save for 10%) are QCed and good to ship as soon as they are assembled. The 10% of people whose blocks aren't good will go out the week after. Batch 2 is going to plating right now in groups so we can make sure the plating is perfect, as we know the plating is correct, we'll be pushing more through. The exact dates for batch 2 are TBD, but it will be last week of december and then into early january. We're getting additional help to assemble the blocks at a rapid pace. With the covid situation in Chicago, we have been building out isolated assembly rooms so people can help without issues.
> 
> While not ideal, this is where we're at and the entire team here is working hard over the holidays to get absolutely everything made and shipped as soon as we can.


So you didn't actually have the parts in hand last Friday when you said batch 1 would be complete by Monday, so within 72 hours? So the end of batch 1 has actually been pushed to the beginning of batch 2? Since the remaining 10% of batch 1 is pushed to next week, and batch 2 will start the final week of December, which is also next week?

Since I am at the end of batch 1, rather than give me 15% off my next purchase, how about just overnight my block instead?


----------



## originxt

Optimus WC said:


> Hi everyone, we want to give you an update with exactly where we're at. We're shipping blocks, though the delays are definitely unfortunate. And the team really apologizes for the delays!!
> 
> STATUS UPDATE:
> 
> Most batch 1 will ship this tuesday (today) and wednesday
> Batch 2 starts shipping next week, quantities and exact ETAs will be determined by nickel plating
> *We're giving everyone 15% off discount for next order.*
> 
> DELAY SHORT STORY:
> 
> Taking time for plating to fix nickel QC issues
> More time to QC parts and assembly
> 
> LONG STORY:
> 
> While we've done lots of nickel plating, we've been running into issues with the GPUs and QC. Our partner companies do our nickel processing, since it's toxic and specialized, we can't do it in our building. The first batches of blocks had defects in the range of 80-90%, meaning 90% didn't meet our standards and needed to be remade. We QCed the first units that came off the line to make sure they were good. When we received the rest, we discovered they didn't meet QC standards. We initially thought this was an isolated issue that could be quickly resolved, but it extended longer to where it delayed everything.
> 
> We've been going back and forth with the platers to make sure we don't have these issues and to expedite the blocks being plated. Because of the hard times right now, they have been delayed as they struggle with their own internal issues. Our timeline updates were based on their updates, so when they missed targets, we missed targets. We were given multiple dates, dates were missed or the quality of the parts wasn't A+.
> 
> The good news is the batches we received are now 90% good. We held off plating the remade blocks until we knew we wouldn't receive bad blocks.


In terms of nickel defects, are you talking about visual blemishes and imperfections or potential failure ie flaking?


----------



## Optimus WC

straha20 said:


> So you didn't actually have the parts in hand last Friday when you said batch 1 would be complete by Monday, so within 72 hours? So the end of batch 1 has actually been pushed to the beginning of batch 2? Since the remaining 10% of batch 1 is pushed to next week, and batch 2 will start the final week of December, which is also next week?
> 
> Since I am at the end of batch 1, rather than give me 15% off my next purchase, how about just overnight my block instead?


In general, when we gave the update, it was based on receiving the mid plates, and they looked good. But when we started to do assembly, we noticed some small QC issues. We're talking tiny areas where nickel didn't plate correctly. We originally thought this was a quick fix, but, well, nothing is quick right now. The update last friday was a jumped gun, as we were told a new batch was ready. We actually went to pick it up twice during the day, it kept getting pushed, then pushed to the weekend, then to monday, then to monday night. We got them last night, started assembly, are assembling now, shipping, doing more and more as we can.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hi everyone, we want to give you an update with exactly where we're at. We're shipping blocks, though the delays are definitely unfortunate. And the team really apologizes for the delays!!
> 
> STATUS UPDATE:
> 
> Most batch 1 will ship this tuesday (today) and wednesday
> Batch 2 starts shipping next week, quantities and exact ETAs will be determined by nickel plating
> *We're giving everyone 15% off discount for next order.*
> 
> DELAY SHORT STORY:
> 
> Taking time for plating to fix nickel QC issues
> More time to QC parts and assembly
> 
> LONG STORY:
> 
> While we've done lots of nickel plating, we've been running into issues with the GPUs and QC. Our partner companies do our nickel processing, since it's toxic and specialized, we can't do it in our building. The first batches of blocks had defects in the range of 80-90%, meaning 90% didn't meet our standards and needed to be remade. We QCed the first units that came off the line to make sure they were good. When we received the rest, we discovered they didn't meet QC standards. We initially thought this was an isolated issue that could be quickly resolved, but it extended longer to where it delayed everything.
> 
> We've been going back and forth with the platers to make sure we don't have these issues and to expedite the blocks being plated. Because of the hard times right now, they have been delayed as they struggle with their own internal issues. Our timeline updates were based on their updates, so when they missed targets, we missed targets. We were given multiple dates, dates were missed or the quality of the parts wasn't A+.
> 
> The good news is the batches we received are now 90% good. We held off plating the remade blocks until we knew we wouldn't receive bad blocks.
> 
> So right now, all of batch 1 parts (save for 10%) are QCed and good to ship as soon as they are assembled. The 10% of people whose blocks aren't good will go out the week after. Batch 2 is going to plating right now in groups so we can make sure the plating is perfect, as we know the plating is correct, we'll be pushing more through. The exact dates for batch 2 are TBD, but it will be last week of december and then into early january. We're getting additional help to assemble the blocks at a rapid pace. With the covid situation in Chicago, we have been building out isolated assembly rooms so people can help without issues.
> 
> While not ideal, this is where we're at and the entire team here is working hard over the holidays to get absolutely everything made and shipped as soon as we can.


Thats great news. Just what i need to convince my friends to join in


----------



## Optimus WC

originxt said:


> In terms of nickel defects, are you talking about visual blemishes and imperfections or potential failure ie flaking?


It's visual, mostly. The GPU block is huge and requires lots of prep and work to do correctly with our nickel process. The blemishes, while visual, point to something wrong in the process, typically the amount of time for plating that happens during the multiple nickel baths. There are some other variables as well. So while cosmetic, it clearly wasn't up to overall standards. And while we don't think there would have been flaking issues, these blocks are ultra premium products and need to live up to the price and warranty.


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> It's visual, mostly. The GPU block is huge and requires lots of prep and work to do correctly with our nickel process. The blemishes, while visual, point to something wrong in the process, typically the amount of time for plating that happens during the multiple nickel baths. There are some other variables as well. So while cosmetic, it clearly wasn't up to overall standards. And while we don't think there would have been flaking issues, these blocks are ultra premium products and need to live up to the price and warranty.


Makes perfect sense to me.


----------



## originxt

Optimus WC said:


> It's visual, mostly. The GPU block is huge and requires lots of prep and work to do correctly with our nickel process. The blemishes, while visual, point to something wrong in the process, typically the amount of time for plating that happens during the multiple nickel baths. There are some other variables as well. So while cosmetic, it clearly wasn't up to overall standards. And while we don't think there would have been flaking issues, these blocks are ultra premium products and need to live up to the price and warranty.


Very nice. I look forward to putting my 70c card under water. While I would have loved the copper block, don't think I want to wait either. Keep up the awesome work.


----------



## oreonutz

originxt said:


> Very nice. I look forward to putting my 70c card under water. While I would have loved the copper block, don't think I want to wait either. Keep up the awesome work.


That copper does look so nice! I really really love my Nickel, and ultimately I do prefer the nickel. I normally think Copper Blocks look Tacky. But the Copper block posted in this thread the other day, looked so damn clean! Am Considering grabbing one once they are in stock for another project.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> It's visual, mostly. The GPU block is huge and requires lots of prep and work to do correctly with our nickel process. The blemishes, while visual, point to something wrong in the process, typically the amount of time for plating that happens during the multiple nickel baths. There are some other variables as well. So while cosmetic, it clearly wasn't up to overall standards. And while we don't think there would have been flaking issues, these blocks are ultra premium products and need to live up to the price and warranty.


Really appreciate your efforts lo. I am glad most of my system is now using your parts (cpu block, fittings) and soon your GPU blocks.


----------



## originxt

Section31 said:


> Really appreciate your efforts lo. I am glad most of my system is now using your parts (cpu block, fittings) and soon your GPU blocks.


How do you like the fittings? Worth the price premium? Kind of kicking myself on not pickup up the soft tubing fittings when they were up a few months back to replace the ****ty ek ones I have.


----------



## oreonutz

Section31 said:


> Really appreciate your efforts lo. I am glad most of my system is now using your parts (cpu block, fittings) and soon your GPU blocks.


100% Same. Although I still need Optimus Fittings and Pump/Res. Would love to be kept in the loop, even if I am annoying the s**t out of you, for when you restock so I can finish my All Optimus Build. The Nickel/Plexi CPU Block and Nickel/Plexi with Satin Black Backplate GPU Block looks so damn perfect together! I don't think my components have ever been happier!

Now if we want to go ultra Niche I just need an Optimus Chipset Block, VRM Block, and RAM Block! LOL!


----------



## Eulerian

Optimus WC said:


> Hi everyone, we want to give you an update with exactly where we're at. We're shipping blocks, though the delays are definitely unfortunate. And the team really apologizes for the delays!!
> 
> STATUS UPDATE:
> 
> Most batch 1 will ship this tuesday (today) and wednesday
> Batch 2 starts shipping next week, quantities and exact ETAs will be determined by nickel plating
> *We're giving everyone 15% off discount for next order.*
> 
> DELAY SHORT STORY:
> 
> Taking time for plating to fix nickel QC issues
> More time to QC parts and assembly
> 
> LONG STORY:
> 
> While we've done lots of nickel plating, we've been running into issues with the GPUs and QC. Our partner companies do our nickel processing, since it's toxic and specialized, we can't do it in our building. The first batches of blocks had defects in the range of 80-90%, meaning 90% didn't meet our standards and needed to be remade. We QCed the first units that came off the line to make sure they were good. When we received the rest, we discovered they didn't meet QC standards. We initially thought this was an isolated issue that could be quickly resolved, but it extended longer to where it delayed everything.
> 
> We've been going back and forth with the platers to make sure we don't have these issues and to expedite the blocks being plated. Because of the hard times right now, they have been delayed as they struggle with their own internal issues. Our timeline updates were based on their updates, so when they missed targets, we missed targets. We were given multiple dates, dates were missed or the quality of the parts wasn't A+.
> 
> The good news is the batches we received are now 90% good. We held off plating the remade blocks until we knew we wouldn't receive bad blocks.
> 
> So right now, all of batch 1 parts (save for 10%) are QCed and good to ship as soon as they are assembled. The 10% of people whose blocks aren't good will go out the week after. Batch 2 is going to plating right now in groups so we can make sure the plating is perfect, as we know the plating is correct, we'll be pushing more through. The exact dates for batch 2 are TBD, but it will be last week of december and then into early january. We're getting additional help to assemble the blocks at a rapid pace. With the covid situation in Chicago, we have been building out isolated assembly rooms so people can help without issues.
> 
> While not ideal, this is where we're at and the entire team here is working hard over the holidays to get absolutely everything made and shipped as soon as we can.


Appreciate the update @Optimus WC


----------



## LiquidHaus

originxt said:


> By chance does anyone with e the high flow next have a clicking sound issue at higher flow rates?


This has been a topic of discussion for every iteration of Aquacomputer's flow meters. I had two sent over to me. I've only used one of them so far and in the beginning, yes there was indeed clicking during higher flow rates. The impellers are highly susceptible to air bubbles trapped in the meter chamber. This attributes to the noise, and the air remains in the flow chamber for quite some time (the longest duration component) while the system slowly purges air.

That being said, after a few weeks of the first flow meter under use, the system has had time to purge all air bubbles from the system. The meter has since become completely silent under operation.

I hope this helps.


----------



## oreonutz

LiquidHaus said:


> This has been a topic of discussion for every iteration of Aquacomputer's flow meters. I had two sent over to me. I've only used one of them so far and in the beginning, yes there was indeed clicking during higher flow rates. The impellers are highly susceptible to air bubbles trapped in the meter chamber. This attributes to the noise, and the air remains in the flow chamber for quite some time (the longest duration component) while the system slowly purges air.
> 
> That being said, after a few weeks of the first flow meter under use, the system has had time to purge all air bubbles from the system. The meter has since become completely silent under operation.
> 
> I hope this helps.


So Off topic, but on topic for this comment.

Anyone know anywhere these new Flow Meters are in Stock in North America?


----------



## Shawnb99

If they want to follow the trends we need an Optimus distro plate


oreonutz said:


> So Off topic, but on topic for this comment.
> 
> Anyone know anywhere these new Flow Meters are in Stock in North America?


No where. Can only order them direct atm


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> How do you like the fittings? Worth the price premium? Kind of kicking myself on not pickup up the soft tubing fittings when they were up a few months back to replace the ****ty ek ones I have.


I love them


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> If they want to follow the trends we need an Optimus distro plate
> 
> 
> No where. Can only order them direct atm


Thats going to start another complaint post lol. Either about 2months wait or high shipping costs


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Thats going to start another complaint post lol. Either about 2months wait or high shipping costs



Design of my flex bay ones only took 10 months in Optimus time that would be like 4 years lol


----------



## Grumfuddock

So this email they sent out about blahblah nickel plating delays is relevant to those of us who requested copper how?


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Design of my flex bay ones only took 10 months in Optimus time that would be like 4 years lol


We should start watercooling/custom case company lol.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> We should start watercooling/custom case company lol.


We don’t really have one here, it could work.


----------



## BULLGOD19

Got shipping notification today. Ordered at 6:50 pacific time on the 19th.


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Hi everyone, we want to give you an update with exactly where we're at. We're shipping blocks, though the delays are definitely unfortunate. And the team really apologizes for the delays!!
> 
> STATUS UPDATE:
> 
> Most batch 1 will ship this tuesday (today) and wednesday
> Batch 2 starts shipping next week, quantities and exact ETAs will be determined by nickel plating
> *We're giving everyone 15% off discount for next order.*
> 
> DELAY SHORT STORY:
> 
> Taking time for plating to fix nickel QC issues
> More time to QC parts and assembly
> 
> LONG STORY:
> 
> While we've done lots of nickel plating, we've been running into issues with the GPUs and QC. Our partner companies do our nickel processing, since it's toxic and specialized, we can't do it in our building. The first batches of blocks had defects in the range of 80-90%, meaning 90% didn't meet our standards and needed to be remade. We QCed the first units that came off the line to make sure they were good. When we received the rest, we discovered they didn't meet QC standards. We initially thought this was an isolated issue that could be quickly resolved, but it extended longer to where it delayed everything.
> 
> We've been going back and forth with the platers to make sure we don't have these issues and to expedite the blocks being plated. Because of the hard times right now, they have been delayed as they struggle with their own internal issues. Our timeline updates were based on their updates, so when they missed targets, we missed targets. We were given multiple dates, dates were missed or the quality of the parts wasn't A+.
> 
> The good news is the batches we received are now 90% good. We held off plating the remade blocks until we knew we wouldn't receive bad blocks.
> 
> So right now, all of batch 1 parts (save for 10%) are QCed and good to ship as soon as they are assembled. The 10% of people whose blocks aren't good will go out the week after. Batch 2 is going to plating right now in groups so we can make sure the plating is perfect, as we know the plating is correct, we'll be pushing more through. The exact dates for batch 2 are TBD, but it will be last week of december and then into early january. We're getting additional help to assemble the blocks at a rapid pace. With the covid situation in Chicago, we have been building out isolated assembly rooms so people can help without issues.
> 
> While not ideal, this is where we're at and the entire team here is working hard over the holidays to get absolutely everything made and shipped as soon as we can.


Were you still able to squeeze me into batch 2 for that copper block?


----------



## meshal300

guys i am wondering whats the best orientation for the block.. i got the foundation intel cpu for my 10980xe cpu..

this one: v1










or this way is better?? v2


----------



## chibi

Grumfuddock said:


> So this email they sent out about blahblah nickel plating delays is relevant to those of us who requested copper how?


It's pretty obvious Optimus' priority lies with the Nickle blocks as that's the higher common denominator with their focus on getting the most out the quickest. Then you have to factor in order sequence. Maybe yours was later than the majority? Also, it's safe to assume any special requests, such as copper, would not take precedence over the mass nickle option - even though it may appear quicker to you. There's just too many logistical steps involved to make a blanket statement such as what's quoted above.


----------



## asdf893

A few weeks (a month?) ago Optimus commented on here that they'd swap some first batch orders to copper if anyone was interested since copper blocks would be going out early so at that point I commented here, DM'd here, and emailed Optimus but given how everything has been going with repeated false timelines I wasn't sure what was going to happen.

Tuesday 12/15 Optimus posted here saying my block specifically would ship out tomorrow (12/16)
Wednesday 12/16 I haven't received a shipping notification by 1pm PT so I email them asking if it's still shipping that day.
Thursday 12/17 morning Optimus emails back saying it didn't ship Wednesday and they'll see if they could ship it today (Thursday)
Thursday 12/17 I respond with email asking why they didn't ship it when they said they would. And if it's going to ship out today. And if they can ship to my new address since I've moved.
Thursday 12/17 afternoon Optimus emails back saying they had hoped to ship today but couldn't and that they'd ship it out ASAP. No reasoning or excuses provided.
Thursday 12/17 I'm agitated and annoyed: what's going on, when is it going to ship etc... At this point I wasn't even sure they had a block for me.
Friday 12/18 morning Optimus emails back saying my block will ship that day and it has been updated to UPS Next Day Air. At first ETA showed Monday instead of Saturday but then ETA updated to Saturday and I actually received Saturday (Optimus hadn't updated my address but oh well, I fetched it without it being stolen).
Saturday 12/19 I actually received my block. Was a bit difficult to believe!

So far I've been very happy with the block itself. It is missing a single medium-length screw but I haven't bothered emailing them about it yet. I took my time tightening everything evenly but evenly very firmly. When I first booted I was amazed that my GPU die temp was idling at 23-24C :0 Then I loaded it up for a while with [email protected] and the temps were still great. I haven't really compared the gpu temp over water temp delta. I've got the optimus CPU block with a 5950x inside as well with PBO on. I've scored my highest Timespy score with this waterblock despite the aircooler performing very well as well. I think I got pretty lucky with the lottery on this one as it was matching the performance of 2 separate 3090KPE's in Timespy. Now with the waterblock it's scoring higher than either of those 2 3090KPE's. I think this is explained by: lottery win with this FTW, good optimus gpu block, poor lottery and/or bugged firmware/PX1 support for either of those 2 3090KPE's. Personally I don't like the acrylic waterblock look with exposed GPU PCB and the thick-AF backplate thermal pad is bulging through the cutouts on the FTW3 PCB but oh well. The backplate definitely gets hot and my plans are to either have fans blowing on the backplate or for fun install an MP5works backplate cooler to it 

Might be too soon for me to say but I may not be buying from Optimus again despite their 15% offer a few comments ago. At some point during all the delays I realized that they're either lying to us or deliberately promising extremely misleading timelines. To me it doesn't matter that there aren't many, or any, FTW3 blocks available yet. What matters is they took payment Mid October, ETA mid November, probably averaged a weekly broken promise from since mid November, informed customers through spotty social media/forum posts, and worst of all didn't inform anyone until _after _each broken promise. Oh, we should know by now that is it just how Optimus is and we shouldn't trust their promises? Nope, I can't do those mental gymnastics. But my lesson learned might be to not buy from Optimus directly. Or maybe a month from now I'll be over the whole thing. Dunno yet. Do these evaporation/steam spots go away over time or live there forever?

Here's my best Timespy score so far. +180 clock/ +1200mem, all other sliders max. Keep in mind there's a PBO'd 5950x contributing to the overall score. Timespy score.


----------



## dwolvin

Other stuff aside (no dog in the fight), that copper looks great (I like smooth tool marks). I do agree that the pad sticking through the PCB might make me take it off and cut some carbon fiber vinyl or something.  And it's nice to win the lottery- I struck out on my 1080ti, but it's been a workhorse for years (w/ EK block).


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> A few weeks (a month?) ago Optimus commented on here that they'd swap some first batch orders to copper if anyone was interested since copper blocks would be going out early so at that point I commented here, DM'd here, and emailed Optimus but given how everything has been going with repeated false timelines I wasn't sure what was going to happen.
> 
> Tuesday 12/15 Optimus posted here saying my block specifically would ship out tomorrow (12/16)
> Wednesday 12/16 I haven't received a shipping notification by 1pm PT so I email them asking if it's still shipping that day.
> Thursday 12/17 morning Optimus emails back saying it didn't ship Wednesday and they'll see if they could ship it today (Thursday)
> Thursday 12/17 I respond with email asking why they didn't ship it when they said they would. And if it's going to ship out today. And if they can ship to my new address since I've moved.
> Thursday 12/17 afternoon Optimus emails back saying they had hoped to ship today but couldn't and that they'd ship it out ASAP. No reasoning or excuses provided.
> Thursday 12/17 I'm agitated and annoyed: what's going on, when is it going to ship etc... At this point I wasn't even sure they had a block for me.
> Friday 12/18 morning Optimus emails back saying my block will ship that day and it has been updated to UPS Next Day Air. At first ETA showed Monday instead of Saturday but then ETA updated to Saturday and I actually received Saturday (Optimus hadn't updated my address but oh well, I fetched it without it being stolen).
> Saturday 12/19 I actually received my block. Was a bit difficult to believe!
> 
> So far I've been very happy with the block itself. It is missing a single medium-length screw but I haven't bothered emailing them about it yet. I took my time tightening everything evenly but evenly very firmly. When I first booted I was amazed that my GPU die temp was idling at 23-24C :0 Then I loaded it up for a while with [email protected] and the temps were still great. I haven't really compared the gpu temp over water temp delta. I've got the optimus CPU block with a 5950x inside as well with PBO on. I've scored my highest Timespy score with this waterblock despite the aircooler performing very well as well. I think I got pretty lucky with the lottery on this one as it was matching the performance of 2 separate 3090KPE's in Timespy. Now with the waterblock it's scoring higher than either of those 2 3090KPE's. I think this is explained by: lottery win with this FTW, good optimus gpu block, poor lottery and/or bugged firmware/PX1 support for either of those 2 3090KPE's. Personally I don't like the acrylic waterblock look with exposed GPU PCB and the thick-AF backplate thermal pad is bulging through the cutouts on the FTW3 PCB but oh well. The backplate definitely gets hot and my plans are to either have fans blowing on the backplate or for fun install an MP5works backplate cooler to it
> 
> Might be too soon for me to say but I may not be buying from Optimus again despite their 15% offer a few comments ago. At some point during all the delays I realized that they're either lying to us or deliberately promising extremely misleading timelines. To me it doesn't matter that there aren't many, or any, FTW3 blocks available yet. What matters is they took payment Mid October, ETA mid November, probably averaged a weekly broken promise from since mid November, informed customers through spotty social media/forum posts, and worst of all didn't inform anyone until _after _each broken promise. Oh, we should know by now that is it just how Optimus is and we shouldn't trust their promises? Nope, I can't do those mental gymnastics. But my lesson learned might be to not buy from Optimus directly. Or maybe a month from now I'll be over the whole thing. Dunno yet. Do these evaporation/steam spots go away over time or live there forever?
> 
> Here's my best Timespy score so far. +180 clock/ +1200mem, all other sliders max. Keep in mind there's a PBO'd 5950x contributing to the overall score. Timespy score.
> View attachment 2470676
> 
> View attachment 2470681
> 
> View attachment 2470682


Nice block. I get you on Optimus. They need to expand there products lineup first (after they resolve production part) as you have bulk of there products already. Myself the Optimus Block and Two Heatkiler Rads will be final upgrade for the next two years (next gen GPU and second gen DDR5 stuff). Not sure what else i need outside maybe Next Gen NVME/Optane and starting the caselabs custom parts/paint job process.

I've done lot of water upgrades this year: Aquacomputer Ultitube, Next High Flow Sensor, Replaced Fittings with Optimus Ones, External Mo-Ra3 420 Setup and really should don't need anything else at this point till 2022/2023. I achieved Ambient Room Cooling too.


----------



## asdf893

dwolvin said:


> Other stuff aside (no dog in the fight), that copper looks great (I like smooth tool marks). I do agree that the pad sticking through the PCB might make me take it off and cut some carbon fiber vinyl or something.  And it's nice to win the lottery- I struck out on my 1080ti, but it's been a workhorse for years (w/ EK block).





Section31 said:


> Nice block. I get you on Optimus. They need to expand there products lineup first (after they resolve production part) as you have bulk of there products already. Myself the Optimus Block and Two Heatkiler Rads will be final upgrade for the next two years (next gen GPU and second gen DDR5 stuff). Not sure what else i need outside maybe Next Gen NVME/Optane and starting the caselabs custom parts/paint job process.
> 
> I've done lot of water upgrades this year: Aquacomputer Ultitube, Next High Flow Sensor, Replaced Fittings with Optimus Ones, External Mo-Ra3 420 Setup and really should don't need anything else at this point till 2022/2023. I achieved Ambient Room Cooling too.


Thanks


----------



## LiquidHaus

looks good, except you gotta fix that kink my man.


----------



## oreonutz

LiquidHaus said:


> looks good, except you gotta fix that kink my man.
> 
> View attachment 2470712


Hey, let the man have his kinks. @LiquidHaus Out here Kink Shaming!

🤣😂🤣😂


----------



## sok0

Can't buy any optimus CPU blocks for 2 entire brands of CPU's for months now and yet optimus seems more intent on popping out 3080 FTW blocks that are one of the rarest 3080 cards. ... OK.


----------



## Avacado

sok0 said:


> Can't buy any optimus CPU blocks for 2 entire brands of CPU's for months now and yet optimus seems more intent on popping out 3080 FTW blocks that are one of the rarest 3080 cards. ... OK.


You are way late to the complain party. I ordered a Foundation block 2 months ago and received it a week later direct from them.


----------



## atzemis

Optimus WC said:


> It's visual, mostly. The GPU block is huge and requires lots of prep and work to do correctly with our nickel process. The blemishes, while visual, point to something wrong in the process, typically the amount of time for plating that happens during the multiple nickel baths. There are some other variables as well. So while cosmetic, it clearly wasn't up to overall standards. And while we don't think there would have been flaking issues, these blocks are ultra premium products and need to live up to the price and warranty.


Are these the blocks that you mentioned will be sold as b-stock in the near-future?


----------



## D-EJ915

meshal300 said:


> guys i am wondering whats the best orientation for the block.. i got the foundation intel cpu for my 10980xe cpu..
> 
> this one: v1
> 
> View attachment 2470670
> 
> 
> or this way is better?? v2
> 
> View attachment 2470671


The cooling fin structure will be oriented the same way in either picture so use whichever fits your tubing runs better.


----------



## originxt

D-EJ915 said:


> The cooling fin structure will be oriented the same way in either picture so use whichever fits your tubing runs better.


Does the foundation not have a jetplate?


----------



## asdf893

There, I fixed it. +5hp. I mean +5C. I mean -5C.



















LiquidHaus said:


> looks good, except you gotta fix that kink my man.
> 
> View attachment 2470712


LOL yup, gotta redo that.


----------



## Avacado

asdf893 said:


> There, I fixed it. +5hp. I mean +5C. I mean -5C.
> 
> View attachment 2470726
> 
> 
> View attachment 2470727
> 
> LOL yup, gotta redo that.


Oh, thats good, needs to go in the official Ghetto Rig post. Post your "ghetto rigging" shenanigans


----------



## Avacado

originxt said:


> Does the foundation not have a jetplate?


Jet plate is within the acrylic itself.


----------



## HyperC

asdf893 said:


> There, I fixed it. +5hp. I mean +5C. I mean -5C.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2470727
> 
> LOL yup, gotta redo that.


LMAO best work I have seen love that strap simple fix and cost effective, did you run out of 90's? what waterblock are you using on the vrm


----------



## oreonutz

I'm still sad no one liked my "Kink Shaming" Comment. Thought that was comedy gold! LOL! 

At least I can still amuse myself I guess, lol. I will exit the room now... 🤣


----------



## dwolvin

It was good, but got buried. 😁


----------



## LiquidHaus

lol, my OCD gets the better of me. I'll redo an entire build if I don't like how it turns out post concept.


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> I'm still sad no one liked my "Kink Shaming" Comment. Thought that was comedy gold! LOL!
> 
> At least I can still amuse myself I guess, lol. I will exit the room now... 🤣


I'm sad you didn't see that I liked your comment. :'(


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> I'm sad you didn't see that I liked your comment. :'(


LOL! 

I can and will do better, I promise in the future, I will be the man that this forum needs! LOL!

Seriously, I appreciate you good sir! LOL!


----------



## asdf893

HyperC said:


> LMAO best work I have seen love that strap simple fix and cost effective, did you run out of 90's? what waterblock are you using on the vrm


LOL thanks. I have more 90s but it's kind of an awkward spot. I'm going to redo the VRM/CPU area so I'm not blocking so much of the cpu or VRM block. VRM and chipset block are anfi-tec x570 set.


----------



## sakete

asdf893 said:


> LOL thanks. I have more 90s but it's kind of an awkward spot. I'm going to redo the VRM/CPU area so I'm not blocking so much of the cpu or VRM block. VRM and chipset block are anfi-tec x570 set.


I have a Asus X570 Formula board, also with a waterblock for VRMs. Any future motherboards I get I'll skip the VRM waterblock, as it makes routing tubing such a pain. There is almost no space between the top outlet on my AM4 Optimus block and the inlet on the VRM above it.

Looks like you have them side by side though. Will that still provide enough cooling for the dies? I thought having flow go vertical instead of horizontal was the best way for AM4?


----------



## asdf893

sakete said:


> I have a Asus X570 Formula board, also with a waterblock for VRMs. Any future motherboards I get I'll skip the VRM waterblock, as it makes routing tubing such a pain. There is almost no space between the top outlet on my AM4 Optimus block and the inlet on the VRM above it.
> 
> Looks like you have them side by side though. Will that still provide enough cooling for the dies? I thought having flow go vertical instead of horizontal was the best way for AM4?


Oops did I get the orientation wrong? The CPU is "sideways" in the socket so I thought relative to the CPU the ports were currently in the vertical position.

Yea VRM block was just for fun and not because I thought I'd get more performance out of my non-OC CPU anyway  The VRM pipe/heatsink on the x570 master is actually pretty nice, felt bad taking it off. Though the CPU temps jump by 25C when I turn PBO on for this 5950x so perhaps VRM watercooling is helping in this case.


----------



## asdf893

sakete said:


> I have a Asus X570 Formula board, also with a waterblock for VRMs. Any future motherboards I get I'll skip the VRM waterblock, as it makes routing tubing such a pain. There is almost no space between the top outlet on my AM4 Optimus block and the inlet on the VRM above it.
> 
> Looks like you have them side by side though. Will that still provide enough cooling for the dies? I thought having flow go vertical instead of horizontal was the best way for AM4?


nice pic! Our struggles are similar.


----------



## sakete

Anyone else here know what the best orientation is for AM4 blocks?


----------



## LiquidHaus

sakete said:


> I have a Asus X570 Formula board, also with a waterblock for VRMs. Any future motherboards I get I'll skip the VRM waterblock, as it makes routing tubing such a pain. _snip_


I know what you mean, however there are always different methods


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Anyone else here know what the best orientation is for AM4 blocks?


Its My Understanding that having the Inlet and Outlet on top and bottom is the best way for Chiplets, however I think its still up for debate which is better, having inlet on top or bottom. I Currently Run with the Inlet on bottom, and works well for me, but I think the difference is negligible.


----------



## WayWayUp

still havent received shipping notification
Bought first day batch 1 
sigh


----------



## asdf893

WayWayUp said:


> still havent received shipping notification
> Bought first day batch 1
> sigh


to be fair batch 1 didn't last 24 hours. What time did you place your order?


----------



## asdf893

oreonutz said:


> Its My Understanding that having the Inlet and Outlet on top and bottom is the best way for Chiplets, however I think its still up for debate which is better, having inlet on top or bottom. I Currently Run with the Inlet on bottom, and works well for me, but I think the difference is negligible.


by top/bottom do you mean top/bottom relative to the writing on the CPU or top/bottom with a motherboard in the usual orientation?


----------



## Eulerian

When did Batch 2 open/close again? Not sure how far in I was (Nov 4)


----------



## originxt

It's been picked up now by ups and due for delivery in Monday. A bit irritated that they couldn't ship out on Tuesday when the label was made in the morning to guarantee the Thursday delivery, especially since it was further delayed from the original proposed Monday delivery date. Maybe UPS's fault, maybe Optimus, maybe both? Really banking on the off chance of a Saturday delivery though.


----------



## asdf893

originxt said:


> It's been picked up now by ups and due for delivery in Monday. A bit irritated that they couldn't ship out on Tuesday when the label was made in the morning to guarantee the Thursday delivery, especially since it was further delayed from the original proposed Monday delivery date. Maybe UPS's fault, maybe Optimus, maybe both? Really banking on the off chance of a Saturday delivery though.


Did they upgrade you to UPS Next Day Air?


----------



## originxt

asdf893 said:


> Did they upgrade you to UPS Next Day Air?


Priority to 2nd day air when I asked thursday last week. I'm glad they upgraded it for free but I didn't ask it be done for free. I was anticipating a Monday ship, maybe Tuesday at latest, otherwise I would have just paid for express next day air.


----------



## DedRonin

Eulerian said:


> When did Batch 2 open/close again? Not sure how far in I was (Nov 4)


I ordered mine on the 1st of Nov. Think I saw someone on Twitter say he ordered his on the 6th.


----------



## gengar

originxt said:


> It's been picked up now by ups and due for delivery in Monday. A bit irritated that they couldn't ship out on Tuesday when the label was made in the morning to guarantee the Thursday delivery, especially since it was further delayed from the original proposed Monday delivery date. Maybe UPS's fault, maybe Optimus, maybe both? Really banking on the off chance of a Saturday delivery though.


Not UPS' fault if the package wasn't actually picked up yesterday. Most likely the shipping label was preprinted (bad practice, but is anyone surprised here) and the package wasn't actually ready until today.

UPS will deliver on Saturdays for many services, but it should already be reflected in the estimated delivery date. Generally speaking there is a non-zero chance it'll be updated to Saturday, but not sure if this is affected by Christmas holiday. My local UPS depot already warned us they won't even pick up packages tomorrow (Christmas Eve) unless we scheduled it by last week.


----------



## oreonutz

asdf893 said:


> by top/bottom do you mean top/bottom relative to the writing on the CPU or top/bottom with a motherboard in the usual orientation?


Sorry. I meant the Block Oriented in such a way, so that in a standard layout ATX Case, Looking at the PC through the Side Glass Window, There is inlet or Outlet On the Top, and an Inlet/Outlet On the Bottom (As Opposed for the Inlet and Outlet being on the Left and Right Orientation). This is in reference to the Optimus Block Specifically, on 2 Chiplet Zen CPU's.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Well, everything aside I'd like to wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

To those who have received GPU blocks, enjoy them for those of us who haven't received them yet! Take care and be safe out there!


----------



## oreonutz

LiquidHaus said:


> Well, everything aside I'd like to wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
> 
> To those who have received GPU blocks, enjoy them for those of us who haven't received them yet! Take care and be safe out there!
> 
> View attachment 2470925


Thank You So Much @LiquidHaus , This was so damn awesome of you!

I am enjoying my Block as we speak actually, loving the temps in CyberPunk. Its actually cold here in Vegas today (At least for us), my room is usually in the 26c to 27c room temp area because of all the PC's I have running in here, but right now its so cold out, that even with all my fans off and windows closed its 21c in my room, which is literally the coldest my room gets, its freezing for me. And in Cyberpunk the 3080 is going back and forth between 27c and 28c, so I am loving it! Clocks are boosting to 2100Mhz, Memory is up to 21,050Mbps, and stable as hell! This Block was so worth the wait, and I can't wait til all of you get yours to enjoy!


Also, to Everyone. MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!

Enjoy this day with Friends and Family, and make sure you take some time to appreciate your PC's! Peace and Love!


----------



## Zurv

@oreonutz Did you try loading up one of the kingpin bios? either the 520w or the XOC? I'm running the XOC, but i'm also shut mod'd. Cyberpunk is ~2145 - ~2160 (that is what a +120 to core gives me)
Did did lower the power on the XOC. extra power without extra volt is just more heat. 47% on the afterburner slider is the point where my limit switched to voltage. (again.. i'm mod'd.. so clearly 47% for power is "low" for an unmod'd card.)
I run mem @ +1000
using the XOC does make the card a little hotter. I'm at 44C now, before using it i was 39-40.

of note, CP is picky about an OC. when benchmarking i can use much higher settings. What works for CP is a good "stable" OC.

ugh.. made a random video of CP and it took 2 days for YT to bake to 4k... and it is super dark.. BLAH


----------



## oreonutz

Zurv said:


> @oreonutz Did you try loading up one of the kingpin bios? either the 520w or the XOC? I'm running the XOC, but i'm also shut mod'd. Cyberpunk is ~2145 - ~2160 (that is what a +120 to core gives me)
> Did did lower the power on the XOC. extra power without extra volt is just more heat. 47% on the afterburner slider is the point where my limit switched to voltage. (again.. i'm mod'd.. so clearly 47% for power is "low" for an unmod'd card.)
> I run mem @ +1000
> using the XOC does make the card a little hotter. I'm at 44C now, before using it i was 39-40.
> 
> of note, CP is picky about an OC. when benchmarking i can use much higher settings. What works for CP is a good "stable" OC.


OMG! 

So Last time I tried loading a Kingpin Bios on an FTW3 card was Pascal, and it Bricked the card. Of Course it was Dual Bios so was an easy recovery, and even if it wasn't dual bios its a simple matter to hook up an EPROM Reader to the actual CMOS Chip and then wipe and flash the EPROM with a Safe Bios that way, do it all the time.

However, since then, I was just always under the impression that Kingpin Bioses on FTW Cards were just off limits. Thats a thing this time??? Can you point me to the XOC Bios my good friend? TY For that awesome TIP! I am looking for the vBios now, just because I am curious to see what I can do with a much higher power limit.


Oh, one thing I am curious about though. Have you noticed if you lost the ability to read the iCX Sensors with the Flashed BIOS?


Also, I couldn't understand what you meant by "CP". I was like, there is no way CP makes any sense in this context, usually thats a PC way to say someones been doing some real nasty crap, lol. But then I realized you meant Cyberpunk. LOL. Took me a minute.

I 100% Agree with Cyberpunk, that game is a great Benchmark in itself. Usually one of the most intensive Benchmarks I run on loop is Superposition, thats usually pretty good at making a previously thought Stable OC to crash. But even OC's I can run on SuperPosition with a 30 Minute loop without crashing will give me trouble in CyberPunk. Can't wait to see if this XOC Bios will give me even more headroom. 

Also with all that extra Power Budget from the Kingpin vBios, I would think a Shunt Mod might no longer be necessary?


----------



## Zurv

I sent you a PM.
I'm not sure i'm going to run the XOC all the time. The 520w one is very close... with less heat.. and i don't have to lower the power usage.
That said, this is a 100% gaming computer. So it isn't on if i'm not playing games...

iCX is still working (and GPU-Z will pick them up too.)
Their "Mem" temps (they clearly aren't reading the mem, but close to them. are like 48c-51c right now... playing CP with the XOC KPE.)


----------



## oreonutz

Zurv said:


> I sent you a PM.
> I'm not sure i'm going to run the XOC all the time. The 520w one is very close... with less heat.. and i don't have to lower the power usage.
> That said, this is a 100% gaming computer. So it isn't on if i'm not playing games...


I really appreciate the heads up. I am wondering though, I have a 3080, will the Kingpin Bios still work on that?


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Well, everything aside I'd like to wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
> 
> To those who have received GPU blocks, enjoy them for those of us who haven't received them yet! Take care and be safe out there!
> 
> View attachment 2470925


Lovely builds you have.


----------



## KedarWolf

oreonutz said:


> OMG!
> 
> So Last time I tried loading a Kingpin Bios on an FTW3 card was Pascal, and it Bricked the card. Of Course it was Dual Bios so was an easy recovery, and even if it wasn't dual bios its a simple matter to hook up an EPROM Reader to the actual CMOS Chip and then wipe and flash the EPROM with a Safe Bios that way, do it all the time.
> 
> However, since then, I was just always under the impression that Kingpin Bioses on FTW Cards were just off limits. Thats a thing this time??? Can you point me to the XOC Bios my good friend? TY For that awesome TIP! I am looking for the vBios now, just because I am curious to see what I can do with a much higher power limit.
> 
> 
> Oh, one thing I am curious about though. Have you noticed if you lost the ability to read the iCX Sensors with the Flashed BIOS?
> 
> 
> Also, I couldn't understand what you meant by "CP". I was like, there is no way CP makes any sense in this context, usually thats a PC way to say someones been doing some real nasty crap, lol. But then I realized you meant Cyberpunk. LOL. Took me a minute.
> 
> I 100% Agree with Cyberpunk, that game is a great Benchmark in itself. Usually one of the most intensive Benchmarks I run on loop is Superposition, thats usually pretty good at making a previously thought Stable OC to crash. But even OC's I can run on SuperPosition with a 30 Minute loop without crashing will give me trouble in CyberPunk. Can't wait to see if this XOC Bios will give me even more headroom.
> 
> Also with all that extra Power Budget from the Kingpin vBios, I would think a Shunt Mod might no longer be necessary?


If you brick a video card with an incompatible BIOS (I did t with my 1080 Ti and the Kingpin BIOS) you can put another video card in or boot from integrated graphics, have the bricked card in the secondary PCI-e slot, nvflash64 --list will show the card even if it doesn't show a display as the main card and allow you to flash it. I bricked my 1080 Ti like three times with incompatible BIOS's and this always fixed it.


----------



## oreonutz

KedarWolf said:


> If you brick a video card with an incompatible BIOS (I did t with my 1080 Ti and the Kingpin BIOS) you can put another video card in or boot from integrated graphics, have the bricked card in the secondary PCI-e slot, nvflash64 --list will show the card even if it doesn't show a display as the main card and allow you to flash it. I bricked my 1080 Ti like three times with incompatible BIOS's and this always fixed it.


Yup, done this method too. Works Great. I just love every opportunity I get to break out the EPROM Flasher! LOL!


----------



## straha20

Last week of December coming up, and I have a four day weekend next weekend. I really hope they manage to keep to the most recent timeline for batch 1...


----------



## JGH_pc

straha20 said:


> Last week of December coming up, and I have a four day weekend next weekend. I really hope they manage to keep to the most recent timeline for batch 1...


I wound up cancelling. I ordered a block from Byski and Alphacool, which are both supposed to arrive by 12/31 (although seems unlikely at this point). Though if both ship at the same time I'll just flip one at cost + shipping. Seems like lots of people out there are getting desperate for FTW3 blocks right now. Used the price difference to buy a new DAC and new pair of rollerblades.

I do want to see if Optimus manages to fulfill the remaining backlog here in good time or if it's more of the same and more excuses. I've been eyeing a 5900x for a while and if I pull the trigger on that I might get a CPU block from them if it seems they can fulfill the order in a reasonable time.


----------



## asdf893

straha20 said:


> Last week of December coming up, and I have a four day weekend next weekend. I really hope they manage to keep to the most recent timeline for batch 1...


 what time was your order?


----------



## Section31

JGH_pc said:


> I wound up cancelling. I ordered a block from Byski and Alphacool, which are both supposed to arrive by 12/31 (although seems unlikely at this point). Though if both ship at the same time I'll just flip one at cost + shipping. Seems like lots of people out there are getting desperate for FTW3 blocks right now. Used the price difference to buy a new DAC and new pair of rollerblades.
> 
> I do want to see if Optimus manages to fulfill the remaining backlog here in good time or if it's more of the same and more excuses. I've been eyeing a 5900x for a while and if I pull the trigger on that I might get a CPU block from them if it seems they can fulfill the order in a reasonable time.


Nice. My friend just got ftw3 but we both aren’t desperate for blocks. We only want certain brands - no ekwb, alphacool, byski. 

Watch scalpers go crazy on gpu blocks.


----------



## Section31

JGH_pc said:


> I wound up cancelling. I ordered a block from Byski and Alphacool, which are both supposed to arrive by 12/31 (although seems unlikely at this point). Though if both ship at the same time I'll just flip one at cost + shipping. Seems like lots of people out there are getting desperate for FTW3 blocks right now. Used the price difference to buy a new DAC and new pair of rollerblades.
> 
> I do want to see if Optimus manages to fulfill the remaining backlog here in good time or if it's more of the same and more excuses. I've been eyeing a 5900x for a while and if I pull the trigger on that I might get a CPU block from them if it seems they can fulfill the order in a reasonable time.


The top blocks are techn, optimus/ekwb magnitude then heatkiller/aquacomputer then the rest. Techn and Optimus difficult to get.


----------



## straha20

asdf893 said:


> what time was your order?


10:31am October 20.


----------



## asdf893

straha20 said:


> 10:31am October 20.


All this time I had assumed you were batch1 but now I'm thinking batch2.


----------



## straha20

JGH_pc said:


> I wound up cancelling. I ordered a block from Byski and Alphacool, which are both supposed to arrive by 12/31 (although seems unlikely at this point). Though if both ship at the same time I'll just flip one at cost + shipping. Seems like lots of people out there are getting desperate for FTW3 blocks right now. Used the price difference to buy a new DAC and new pair of rollerblades.
> 
> I do want to see if Optimus manages to fulfill the remaining backlog here in good time or if it's more of the same and more excuses. I've been eyeing a 5900x for a while and if I pull the trigger on that I might get a CPU block from them if it seems they can fulfill the order in a reasonable time.


I got lucky and snagged the last Optimus AM4 block that Performance PC's had in stock...back in September. They have not been in stock there since.


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> I got lucky and snagged the last Optimus AM4 block that Performance PC's had in stock...back in September. They have not been in stock there since.


I have been debating trying out the techn block for friends build but its really expensive and oos.


----------



## straha20

asdf893 said:


> All this time I had assumed you were batch1 but now I'm thinking batch2.


Oh no, I am absolutely batch 1. They went up on October 19, sold out, then one was cancelled the next morning, and I snagged it...









Optimus Waterblock


Definitely :) It'll still take a little bit to get the finished backplates anodized etc. Unless you want raw parts, you'd be the only one to get it :D That's right, the XL heatsink gets satin finished and then anodized either clear or black. It matches our blocks. Ill take one that un...




www.overclock.net





So unless they have moved me from batch 1 to batch 2 which went on sale a few weeks later without telling me, then I am in batch 1.


----------



## straha20

asdf893 said:


> All this time I had assumed you were batch1 but now I'm thinking batch2.


Oh no, I am absolutely batch 1. They went up on October 19, sold out, then one was cancelled the next morning, and I snagged it, or so my paid receipt and bank account sugges...









Optimus Waterblock


Definitely :) It'll still take a little bit to get the finished backplates anodized etc. Unless you want raw parts, you'd be the only one to get it :D That's right, the XL heatsink gets satin finished and then anodized either clear or black. It matches our blocks. Ill take one that un...




www.overclock.net





So unless they have moved me from batch 1 to batch 2 which went on sale a few weeks later without telling me, then I am


----------



## Swiso

What realistic ETA should I expect for a black satin full copper Threadripper block ?


----------



## straha20

Optimus and this whole experience reminds me of how when you're going to be moving house, and a few weeks before, that friend enthusiastically volunteers to help with their truck, how they'll be there at 8:00 Saturday morning, and they'll even bring a few of their other buddies. 

Then the Friday before, they tell you that they won't be able to be there until 10am because they have to go pick up their buddy and he won't be ready to go until then. Then 11am rolls around, and they call and say that they just woke up, but they'll be there soon. Then an hour later, they call and say, man, sorry to do this, but I won't be able to be there until 3pm because I have to take my dog to the emergency vet.

Four o'clock rolls around, and they say they are finally on their way, but have to grab something to eat because they haven't eaten all day.

Finally, six o'clock hits, and they call and say they are getting ready to leave home because the wife and kids wanted to go eat too, and he had to take them back home before he could come over and help...


----------



## asdf893

straha20 said:


> Optimus and this whole experience reminds me of how when you're going to be moving house, and a few weeks before, that friend enthusiastically volunteers to help with their truck, how they'll be there at 8:00 Saturday morning, and they'll even bring a few of their other buddies.
> 
> Then the Friday before, they tell you that they won't be able to be there until 10am because they have to go pick up their buddy and he won't be ready to go until then. Then 11am rolls around, and they call and say that they just woke up, but they'll be there soon. Then an hour later, they call and say, man, sorry to do this, but I won't be able to be there until 3pm because I have to take my dog to the emergency vet.
> 
> Four o'clock rolls around, and they say they are finally on their way, but have to grab something to eat because they haven't eaten all day.
> 
> Finally, six o'clock hits, and they call and say they are getting ready to leave home because the wife and kids wanted to go eat too, and he had to take them back home before he could come over and help...


And now it's Saturday night and you're wondering if you should even expect them Sunday or go it alone


----------



## asdf893

Swiso said:


> What realistic ETA should I expect for a black satin full copper Threadripper block ?


2021


----------



## straha20

asdf893 said:


> And now it's Saturday night and you're wondering if you should even expect them Sunday or go it alone


And how, no matter how enthusiastic they are, that the next time you need help, to make other plans, and if they show up, great! if not, no biggie because you weren't actually counting on them any way.


----------



## Swiso

asdf893 said:


> 2021


I see that....but realistically still January or later ?


----------



## straha20

Swiso said:


> I see that....but realistically still January or later ?


Realistically? Any estimated time frame would be pure guess work by any of us, and even time frames given by Optimus have been woefully incorrect, and not just with the FTW3 blocks...with pretty much every single product.

If you are going to be holding out for and planning your build around an Optimus block, then you could be waiting a month, or six months or more. If you are in the planning stages for a build that you plan on completing say next Christmas, then you might be able to figure on an Optimus block, but any sooner than that...and that is not me being sarcastic.


----------



## straha20

I mean, these are the same folks that said on Friday, all batch 1 blocks would be shipped by the following Monday. Then on Tuesday, they said the rest of batch 1 would be sent the week after Christmas, and batch 2 would start shipping the last week of December...which happen to be the same week for both of them


----------



## Swiso

straha20 said:


> Realistically? Any estimated time frame would be pure guess work by any of us, and even time frames given by Optimus have been woefully incorrect, and not just with the FTW3 blocks...with pretty much every single product.
> 
> If you are going to be holding out for and planning your build around an Optimus block, then you could be waiting a month, or six months or more. If you are in the planning stages for a build that you plan on completing say next Christmas, then you might be able to figure on an Optimus block, but any sooner than that...and that is not me being sarcastic.


Still waiting for some parts to arrive by middle January, but I hope that by then they would be able to provide copper blocks, since they mentioned problems with nickel ones.... that should be easy i guess....
Having to choose between a full copper and nickel-plated block what you would choose ?


----------



## straha20

Swiso said:


> Still waiting for some parts to arrive by middle January, but I hope that by then they would be able to provide copper blocks, since they mentioned problems with nickel ones.... that should be easy i guess....


You'd think...but a couple months ago, it was suggested that copper blocks would be able to be shipped sooner than the plated blocks, and several of us messaged Optimus as they suggested we do to request copper blocks...then nothing. Until a few weeks ago, they said that no, the copper ones would not ship sooner...


----------



## Swiso

Oh @#$%&....


----------



## straha20

Fortunately these are product that need minimal after sale customer service as there is not much that can go wrong...don't even want to think about the frustration that would be.


----------



## Swiso

I see.... its frustrating.... I would just need a realistic timeline from Optimus... 
As maintenance do you think that there is any difference between the copper and nickel plated version of this block ?
After reading about the problems they got with the nickel plating outsourced manufacturers, I would prefer a copper one....but saw a couple of nickel ones out there....


----------



## Shawnb99

You do realize the delays have only happened on newly designed blocks or items that are out of stock due to demand. Otherwise I’ve never waited more then a day for my orders to ship from Optimus. Never experienced any delays with support or swapping one size of fittings for another. Everything was done quickly with no issues.

All the complaints are over blocks that are being designed as we speak so of course there will be set backs and delays. Not to mention a global pandemic that has put delays on everything.

But no that would be using common sense.


----------



## Swiso

Talking to me ?


----------



## Shawnb99

Swiso said:


> Talking to me ?


Talking to everyone. 
Most of the delay issues “should “be” over for the most part and one should hope they can give more consistent timeframes. Now if the same issues continue past January then I’d be concerned.


----------



## Swiso

That's good.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Talking to everyone.
> Most of the delay issues “should “be” over for the most part and one should hope they can give more consistent timeframes. Now if the same issues continue past January then I’d be concerned.





Swiso said:


> Talking to me ?


Shawnb99, I think you and me are one of the few who aren't complaining and being patient can be. It's just one screwed up year where everything went to hell. You and me are taking it in steps thankfully, I don't see either of us finishing till summer time. Lot of my friends are probably coming over whenever its safe (vaccine) and building there water rigs using my Mo-Ra3 external unit. I expect more tinkering now that most of the water cooling part got delayed to 2021. 

However, i think this year has really favored the way i build mine. How many times have we discussed about not waiting for heatkiller new internal radiators but i endup just continuing to hold out for them. Same with the GPU Block situation. fortunate me and my friends waited for who supports who before going in. Seen too many people jump in too early and get stuck with multiple GPU's


----------



## JGH_pc

Swiso said:


> What realistic ETA should I expect for a black satin full copper Threadripper block ?


If they make one. Id estimate sometime between now and the conclusion of the Holocene epoch.


----------



## D-EJ915

Shawnb99 said:


> You do realize the delays have only happened on newly designed blocks or items that are out of stock due to demand. Otherwise I’ve never waited more then a day for my orders to ship from Optimus. Never experienced any delays with support or swapping one size of fittings for another. Everything was done quickly with no issues.
> 
> All the complaints are over blocks that are being designed as we speak so of course there will be set backs and delays. Not to mention a global pandemic that has put delays on everything.
> 
> But no that would be using common sense.


Mine both shipped the next week and I ordered them months apart. My last AM4 order was over a week without being shipped when I canceled it due to not really wanting it anymore but that was right before they cut off online ordering and I knew they were behind. Is some trick to getting them more quickly? lol


----------



## Section31

D-EJ915 said:


> Your blocks all shipped in one day from ordering? Mine all shipped the next week and I ordered them months apart. My last AM4 order was over a week without being shipped when I canceled it due to not really wanting it anymore and that was right before they cut off online ordering. Is some trick to getting them more quickly? lol


As long as it isn’t another caselabs lol. Stop orders in may 2018 then suddenly announce close down couple months later.


----------



## D-EJ915

Section31 said:


> As long as it isn’t another caselabs lol. Stop orders in may 2018 then suddenly announce close down couple months later.


As long as they don't turn into the watercooling equivalent of Analogue then should be fine lol.


----------



## straha20

Section31 said:


> As long as it isn’t another caselabs lol. Stop orders in may 2018 then suddenly announce close down couple months later.


They are a small business, in my state no less, so of course I want them to succeed, but the vast customer experience inconsistencies shown in this thread alone don't bode well.


----------



## originxt

Section31 said:


> Shawnb99, I think you and me are one of the few who aren't complaining and being patient can be. It's just one screwed up year where everything went to hell. You and me are taking it in steps thankfully, I don't see either of us finishing till summer time.


Optimus can get a pass here in terms of the botched launch and delay of the ftw3 blocks. The delays I can handle since it's just a water block and it seems like there are delays in general from the other manufacturers as well. I don't think they were malicious like people suggested in that they purposefully took orders early in an attempt to try locking in orders over other gpu blocks. I've also like Shawnb99, gotten my order shipped next day and after-purchase care was great. Got their very first spring-free mount system mailed out to me a day after inquiring it. Threw out their initial thermal paste though, some ceramic paste I've never seen before lol.

I have issues with just how they handle communication in general. For example, the moment Optimus received bad samples of nickle plating, they should immediately notified the buyers of potential delays and reasons behind it by EMAIL. I believe the first form of communication they had about delays was the week of Thanksgiving. They let buyers know via Twitter and OCN which is honestly unacceptable. Not everyone uses Twitter nor browses OCN. Buyers receive confirmation and communication of their purchases through email and should be contacted that way. I'm glad they sent out that email a week or so ago in regards to delay and I hope it continues that way.


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> They are a small business, in my state no less, so of course I want them to succeed, but the vast customer experience inconsistencies shown in this thread alone don't bode well.


Hope they stay alive. This year launches have been bad on watercooling products though.

All of Aquacomputer new stuff is two months wait time and still difficult to get. I see tons of people looking for there new next flow meter from ppcs, etc.

Heatkiller- Jakob no longer there so no more upcoming products leaks. Gpu’s block delayed couple months, ftw3 went from dec to late jan/early feb. Internal radiator from fall to nov to january.

Ekwb -there gpu blocks for aib largely delayed till 2021 and huge backlog there

Scalpers missed out on watercooling parts scramble i felt.


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> Optimus can get a pass here in terms of the botched launch and delay of the ftw3 blocks. The delays I can handle since it's just a water block and it seems like there are delays in general from the other manufacturers as well. I don't think they were malicious like people suggested in that they purposefully took orders early in an attempt to try locking in orders over other gpu blocks. I've also like Shawnb99, gotten my order shipped next day and after-purchase care was great. Got their very first spring-free mount system mailed out to me a day after inquiring it. Threw out their initial thermal paste though, some ceramic paste I've never seen before lol.
> 
> I have issues with just how they handle communication in general. For example, the moment Optimus received bad samples of nickle plating, they should immediately notified the buyers of potential delays and reasons behind it by EMAIL. I believe the first form of communication they had about delays was the week of Thanksgiving. They let buyers know via Twitter and OCN which is honestly unacceptable. Not everyone uses Twitter nor browses OCN. Buyers receive confirmation and communication of their purchases through email and should be contacted that way. I'm glad they sent out that email a week or so ago in regards to delay and I hope it continues that way.


Shawnb and me think the raucus here drove them off. They were still around when we were doing all the fun offtopic discussions. They added some great comments in those discussion.

Remember we had people like skrupples making noises too.


----------



## straha20

originxt said:


> Optimus can get a pass here in terms of the botched launch and delay of the ftw3 blocks. The delays I can handle since it's just a water block and it seems like there are delays in general from the other manufacturers as well. I don't think they were malicious like people suggested in that they purposefully took orders early in an attempt to try locking in orders over other gpu blocks. I've also like Shawnb99, gotten my order shipped next day and after-purchase care was great. Got their very first spring-free mount system mailed out to me a day after inquiring it. Threw out their initial thermal paste though, some ceramic paste I've never seen before lol.
> 
> I have issues with just how they handle communication in general. For example, the moment Optimus received bad samples of nickle plating, they should immediately notified the buyers of potential delays and reasons behind it by EMAIL. I believe the first form of communication they had about delays was the week of Thanksgiving. They let buyers know via Twitter and OCN which is honestly unacceptable. Not everyone uses Twitter nor browses OCN. Buyers receive confirmation and communication of their purchases through email and should be contacted that way. I'm glad they sent out that email a week or so ago in regards to delay and I hope it continues that way.


I agree, I don't think there is malice, and completely agree with the terrible communication. Friday saying that the batch 1 block would complete shipping by Monday, which was three days later, and then on Tuesday announcing a further delay because of QC issues and not actually having all the parts? That's not good. And in the email they sent...batch 1 blocks would finish the week after Christmas, and batch 2 blocks would start shipping the last week of December into January? That is the same damned week!


----------



## Shawnb99

originxt said:


> I have issues with just how they handle communication in general. For example, the moment Optimus received bad samples of nickle plating, they should immediately notified the buyers of potential delays and reasons behind it by EMAIL. I believe the first form of communication they had about delays was the week of Thanksgiving. They let buyers know via Twitter and OCN which is honestly unacceptable. Not everyone uses Twitter nor browses OCN. Buyers receive confirmation and communication of their purchases through email and should be contacted that way. I'm glad they sent out that email a week or so ago in regards to delay and I hope it continues that way.


I agree completely with this. Their communication sucks badly. While IMHO mass emails over delays is a bit much, general or weekly updates is good enough, at the very least they should of put it out it in Twitter and here. More communication rather then less. I know that’s hard when you’re met with negativity but it’s what’s needed during a “pre-order”. Specially in today’s age when anyone and everyone scams via KS and crowdfunding.
Batches were limited so personolized communication isn’t to much to ask.


----------



## straha20

Shawnb99 said:


> I agree completely with this. Their communication sucks badly. While IMHO mass emails over delays is a bit much, general or weekly updates is good enough, at the very least they should of put it out it in Twitter and here. More communication rather then less. I know that’s hard when you’re met with negativity but it’s what’s needed during a “pre-order”. Specially in today’s age when anyone and everyone scams via KS and crowdfunding.
> *Batches were limited so personolized communication isn’t to much to ask.*


Not only were they small and personalized, the money had already been collected, so these were actual paying customers at that point. Not prospective customers to be marketed to.


----------



## asdf893

I think the mid-Nov ETA they gave when taking payments in mid-late-OCT was a straight up lie.


----------



## straha20

asdf893 said:


> I think the mid-Nov ETA they gave when taking payments in mid-late-OCT was a straight up lie.


I wouldn't call it a lie per se. Just an overly optimistic estimate that none off us should have actually taken seriously, especially considering no other manufacturer, even well established ones has timelines that aggressive.

Now, what they said a week ago Friday saying batch 1 would be complete and all shipped by the following Monday, knowing full well they were not meeting QC, and ignoring point blank questions about if they actually had everything in hand and only had assembly left...that was purposefully misleading.


----------



## HyperC

I got bored while this isn't the best spot for this post, Since all I read about water blocks is more fin coverage yields better temp...I decided on buying a Raystorm Neo thread ripper block for testing and modding the bracket for my 5900x since I know it has plenty of die coverage throughout the block. I will report back on my findings hopefully by thursday


----------



## JGH_pc

straha20 said:


> *I wouldn't call it a lie per se. Just an overly optimistic estimate that none off us should have actually taken seriously*, especially considering no other manufacturer, even well established ones has timelines that aggressive.
> 
> Now, what they said a week ago Friday saying batch 1 would be complete and all shipped by the following Monday, knowing full well they were not meeting QC, and ignoring point blank questions about if they actually had everything in hand and only had assembly left...that was purposefully misleading.


You just described a bold faced lie.

Knowing what we now know. Given the issues with annodized backplates (remember when Optimus said this was the final holdup lmao), nickel plating, QC issues etc. Optimus was either incredibly naive or purposely threw out an impossible date to try and beat all the competition to market.

I don't think that they meant for it go this bad but I don't think that mid nov date was ever possible and Optimus probably knew that from the get go.


----------



## WayWayUp

speaking of
I still haven't received my shipping notification for batch one purchased on day 1


----------



## straha20

I have sent a total of three emails to Optimus since ordering on October 20. The first was at their prompt when it was suggested that forgoing the nickel plating and getting the copper block would allow for quicker shipping. The second was last Tuesday morning asking about the delay in shipping batch 1 blocks, and the third was after their public response, in which I requested an upgrade to over night shipping. I have not received a single response.

I am fully expecting something along the lines of getting a shipping notification late Thursday afternoon saying that the shipping label was created, but it being a few more days or weeks until the shipper actually receives the package...basically attempting to kick this can down the road a bit, while trying to claim a met timeframe with a label being created, which ultimately is not actually the same thing as being shipped.


----------



## GAN77

WayWayUp said:


> I still haven't received my shipping notification for batch one purchased on day 1


Delivery time - EOL video cards)


----------



## WayWayUp

straha20 said:


> I have sent a total of three emails to Optimus since ordering on October 20. The first was at their prompt when it was suggested that forgoing the nickel plating and getting the copper block would allow for quicker shipping. The second was last Tuesday morning asking about the delay in shipping batch 1 blocks, and the third was after their public response, in which I requested an upgrade to over night shipping. I have not received a single response.
> 
> I am fully expecting something along the lines of getting a shipping notification late Thursday afternoon saying that the shipping label was created, but it being a few more days or weeks until the shipper actually receives the package...basically attempting to kick this can down the road a bit, while trying to claim a met timeframe with a label being created, which ultimately is not actually the same thing as being shipped.


I ordered on the 19th brah
and i emailed both matt and optimus over a week ago an no response. When they dont respond they usually just try to buy more time
you would think they are assembling Rolls Royce's and not water blocks shipping out 5 blocks a day LOL


----------



## asdf893

On the other hand my copper block seems to look and perform quite nicely. Does this info help y'all in any way?


----------



## JGH_pc

FWIW my China guy told me block is packed and waiting UPS express pick up.


----------



## JGH_pc

Also, I'm never buying a non Strix or Reference GPU ever again. What a headache this has been.


----------



## Section31

JGH_pc said:


> Also, I'm never buying a non Strix or Reference GPU ever again. What a headache this has been.


Lol. Its only this generation. Before nvidia founders were reference so it was best deal. Basically the savings of the strix vs reference was applied to the gpu block. Also, the performance gains are so marginal. 

For the record i actually like the founders cards too. There 12pin option (i would custom sleeve an cable) is really useful for cable management. 

The best deal was the seahawk ek x or aib with ekwb. Its actually cheaper than buying gpu + waterblock. Take an look at this card, basically i suspect this is reference pcb









ASUS EKWB GeForce RTX 3090 24GB GDDR6X | Graphics Card | ASUS Global







www.asus.com


----------



## JGH_pc

Section31 said:


> Lol. Its only this generation. Before nvidia founders were reference so it was best deal. Basically the savings of the strix vs reference was applied to the gpu block. Also, the performance gains are so marginal.
> 
> For the record i actually like the founders cards too. There 12pin option (i would custom sleeve an cable) is really useful for cable management.
> 
> The best deal was the seahawk ek x or aib with ekwb. Its actually cheaper than buying gpu + waterblock. Take an look at this card, basically i suspect this is reference pcb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ASUS EKWB GeForce RTX 3090 24GB GDDR6X | Graphics Card | ASUS Global
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.asus.com


For next round I see myself being more patient waiting for either a strix, aib x EK, aib water cooled or just going reference. I was never really satisfied with my 2080 and that combined with the Ampere hype train I grabbed an FTW3 because it was the first one (that wasnt a zotac) that I could buy.

This is also my first loop and first time water cooling a GPU. So yeah lesson learned. Hopefully founders is reference next cycle but I see Nvidia sticking with this special founders thing to piss off the aib partners.


----------



## Section31

JGH_pc said:


> For next round I see myself being more patient waiting for either a strix, aib x EK, aib water cooled or just going reference. I was never really satisfied with my 2080 and that combined with the Ampere hype train I grabbed an FTW3 because it was the first one (that wasnt a zotac) that I could buy.
> 
> This is also my first loop and first time water cooling a GPU. So yeah lesson learned. Hopefully founders is reference next cycle but I see Nvidia sticking with this special founders thing to piss off the aib partners.


Glad to see you came to senses. It’s always an learning process. Next launch is 2022/2023 so just enjoy what you have


----------



## Shawnb99

JGH_pc said:


> For next round I see myself being more patient waiting for either a strix, aib x EK, aib water cooled or just going reference. I was never really satisfied with my 2080 and that combined with the Ampere hype train I grabbed an FTW3 because it was the first one (that wasnt a zotac) that I could buy.
> 
> This is also my first loop and first time water cooling a GPU. So yeah lesson learned. Hopefully founders is reference next cycle but I see Nvidia sticking with this special founders thing to piss off the aib partners.


What lessons were learned? Buying a GPU to WC is hard due to so many different PCB’s so each new card needs it’s own block. You either end up limited in what GPU’s or blocks you can buy so planing is even more important. Also while it’s great to get stuff day one, when WC it’s usually better to wait 3-6 months for the dust to settle and blocks to be designed or you run into the problems like Optimus where every delay sets you back weeks.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> What lessons were learned? Buying a GPU to WC is hard due to so many different PCB’s so each new card needs it’s own block. You either end up limited in what GPU’s or blocks you can buy so planing is even more important. Also while it’s great to get stuff day one, when WC it’s usually better to wait 3-6 months for the dust to settle and blocks to be designed or you run into the problems like Optimus where every delay sets you back weeks.


He got spoiled by 2000 series where Heatkiller/aquacomputer/etc announced blocks two weeks before launch for reference. You knew nvidia founders was reference too


----------



## WayWayUp

the ftw3 is a very popular card and widely available (relatively speaking)

The reason 3rd parties ignore making blocks for them is because EVGA makes an incredibly crappy block known as the hydrocopper and water block manufacturers dont like competing/further reducing the available market for their blocks

With the way Evga handled the ftw3 this generation with all the shortcuts and quality reductions (i.e. making the kingpin essentially the new ftw3 with classified tool)
I will never buy from them again. tarnished their brand imho

Also, it's just such a pain trying to get a waterblock. Paying over $400 two in a half months in advance with no block in sight; cant even get replys to emails!

At least with the strix you know your not sacrificing quality/performance and it's easy to get a block very early on


----------



## JGH_pc

Shawnb99 said:


> What lessons were learned? Buying a GPU to WC is hard due to so many different PCB’s so each new card needs it’s own block. You either end up limited in what GPU’s or blocks you can buy so planing is even more important. Also while it’s great to get stuff day one, when WC it’s usually better to wait 3-6 months for the dust to settle and blocks to be designed or you run into the problems like Optimus where every delay sets you back weeks.


I mean I literally said waiting for a card that is definitely getting multiple blocks fast like Strix or reference.

Or getting a factory WC'd card.

Not sure that was hard to gleen from my post.


----------



## WayWayUp

In my experience the factory waterblocks are major hit or miss.
Last gen i picked up 2080ti hydro and temps continued to rise into the 50s regardless of my radiator setup. delta was so high


----------



## Section31

WayWayUp said:


> the ftw3 is a very popular card and widely available (relatively speaking)
> 
> The reason 3rd parties ignore making blocks for them is because EVGA makes an incredibly crappy block known as the hydrocopper and water block manufacturers dont like competing/further reducing the available market for their blocks
> 
> With the way Evga handled the ftw3 this generation with all the shortcuts and quality reductions (i.e. making the kingpin essentially the new ftw3 with classified tool)
> I will never buy from them again. tarnished their brand imho
> 
> Also, it's just such a pain trying to get a waterblock. Paying over $400 two in a half months in advance with no block in sight; cant even get replys to emails!
> 
> At least with the strix you know your not sacrificing quality/performance and it's easy to get a block very early on



Good point. However it still doesn’t devalue point Nvidia founders being custom pcb screwed things up. My first choice is always founders if reference, i put savings spent on aib oc cards into waterblocks.


----------



## Shawnb99

WayWayUp said:


> At least with the strix you know your not sacrificing quality/performance and it's easy to get a block very early on


You’re just sacrificing any warranty on your card by installing a block on it. EVGA may have **** the bed this gen but I’ll take their CS over Asus any day. 
If you want to point the blame at anyone point it at Nvidia


----------



## straha20

@Optimus WC A straight up honest, no BS answer here would be greatly appreciated...

Do you have all the parts in hand and QC'd for batch 1 to complete and ship early this week? Can those of us still waiting on batch 1 blocks, so the remaining 10% referred to last week, expect them to actually ship, as in not just a shipping label created, but actually be handed over to UPS/USPS this week?


----------



## Shawnb99

straha20 said:


> @Optimus WC A straight up honest, no BS answer here would be greatly appreciated...
> 
> Do you have all the parts in hand and QC'd for batch 1 to complete and ship early this week? Can those of us still waiting on batch 1 blocks, so the remaining 10% referred to last week, expect them to actually ship, as in not just a shipping label created, but actually be handed over to UPS/USPS this week?


USPS Is also backed up, just because tracking only shows a shipping label created doesn’t mean USPS hasn’t picked it up and is delivering it to you, they just missed scanning it. Had this happen to me a few weeks ago, label created yet no movement so finally got Optimus to look into it and USPS updated the tracking the next day with the correct info.
So don’t be so quick to blame Optimus


----------



## Keith Myers

WayWayUp said:


> In my experience the factory waterblocks are major hit or miss.
> Last gen i picked up 2080ti hydro and temps continued to rise into the 50s regardless of my radiator setup. delta was so high


I have no complaints with my EVGA 1080 Ti Hydro Copper and my EVGA 2080 Hydro Copper. Single 360 rad. 38° C. on the 1080 Ti which is first in the loop and 45° C. on the 2080 which is the end of the loop.


----------



## WayWayUp

straha20 said:


> @Optimus WC A straight up honest, no BS answer here would be greatly appreciated...
> 
> Do you have all the parts in hand and QC'd for batch 1 to complete and ship early this week? Can those of us still waiting on batch 1 blocks, so the remaining 10% referred to last week, expect them to actually ship, as in not just a shipping label created, but actually be handed over to UPS/USPS this week?


I would be satisfied with a shipping label honestly lol
at least would mean that its coming very soon :/


----------



## WayWayUp

Keith Myers said:


> I have no complaints with my EVGA 1080 Ti Hydro Copper and my EVGA 2080 Hydro Copper. Single 360 rad. 38° C. on the 1080 Ti which is first in the loop and 45° C. on the 2080 which is the end of the loop.


I have a bad experience unfortunately
But if these hydrocoppers were maxing out at 38c then there wouldnt be a market for this optimus block imho. Especially with evga only charging a $50 premium

With this block im shooting for some exceptional temps in an open air case with a dedicated gpu only loop consisting of 2x 420mm very thick rads in a push/pull. Will also opt for liquid metal
Hope to never see 40c
card is shunted with 520w bios
looking for 8c delta maybe even less


----------



## JGH_pc

WayWayUp said:


> I have a bad experience unfortunately
> But if these hydrocoppers were maxing out at 38c then there wouldnt be a market for this optimus block imho. Especially with evga only charging a $50 premium
> 
> With this block im shooting for some exceptional temps in an open air case with a dedicated gpu only loop consisting of 2x 420mm very thick rads in a push/pull. Will also opt for liquid metal
> Hope to never see 40c
> card is shunted with 520w bios
> looking for 8c delta maybe even less


Goddamn you guys that throw hardmods on these are crazy. Or are you just not afraid of damaging/needing to RMA after you run that much juice through it?

Are you gaming? Or going for records?


----------



## WayWayUp

im not too worried as i have experience doing these mods without issue. If something ever happened i would just take the L and buy another and leave it (mostly) stock


----------



## Section31

JGH_pc said:


> Goddamn you guys that throw hardmods on these are crazy. Or are you just not afraid of damaging/needing to RMA after you run that much juice through it?
> 
> Are you gaming? Or going for records?


This is ocn. Home for some of the crazy watercooling rigs. Some do it for work others its just there hobby lol.


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> @Optimus WC A straight up honest, no BS answer here would be greatly appreciated...
> 
> Do you have all the parts in hand and QC'd for batch 1 to complete and ship early this week? Can those of us still waiting on batch 1 blocks, so the remaining 10% referred to last week, expect them to actually ship, as in not just a shipping label created, but actually be handed over to UPS/USPS this week?


If you can’t wait just cancel it. Join the other user who went byski. Ekwb has preorders open for there ftw3 block too with mid jan launch. Alphacool also is option. Long option is optimus/heatkiller


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> You’re just sacrificing any warranty on your card by installing a block on it. EVGA may have **** the bed this gen but I’ll take their CS over Asus any day.
> If you want to point the blame at anyone point it at Nvidia


I agree also. Its evident that nvidia rushed the launch. In the past, the block makers had access to pcb samples as easy as one month before announcement. Thats why 2000 series gpus reference blocks were able to come out so fast.


----------



## Section31

Keith Myers said:


> I have no complaints with my EVGA 1080 Ti Hydro Copper and my EVGA 2080 Hydro Copper. Single 360 rad. 38° C. on the 1080 Ti which is first in the loop and 45° C. on the 2080 which is the end of the loop.


Refreshing to see your comment. You are one of the early posters in this thread and provided valuable information


----------



## asdf893

WayWayUp said:


> With the way Evga handled the ftw3 this generation with all the shortcuts and quality reductions (i.e. making the kingpin essentially the new ftw3 with classified tool)
> I will never buy from them again. tarnished their brand imho


also feeling like kingpin is an ln2 version of FTW3 with no ambient gains. my aircooled beats or matches either of the 3090 KPE's I have. Now with the optimus block on the FTW3 I think it outperforms the 3090 KPEs but reserving final judgement for next PX1 version.


----------



## Keith Myers

Section31 said:


> Refreshing to see your comment. You are one of the early posters in this thread and provided valuable information


Well I realize my use case is 180° out from most of the forum members. No gaming here so not the typical use case. My gpus run gpu distributed processing work 24/7. But I still overclock both the main gpu core and the memory to get up to the range that I see the gaming overclockers report. I mosty run 60-80 Mhz OC on the gpu cores, but really just depend on GPU Boost 3.0 to keep the clocks up. Because of the memory penalty that Nvidia invokes on their consumer cards when a compute load is detected, I also OC the memory from 800-2000 Mhz to get the P2 or P3 memory clocks back to what they should run in P0 gaming state if I was running a gaming load.

For example, I can hold 1995-2025Mhz on the 1080 Ti all the time with the memory clocked to 11400Mhz. The 2080 will hold the same with the memory clocked to 14400Mhz. Depending on the application I can maintain 95-99% utilization on each card. I wish I had the air-cooled 2070's either waterblocked or AIO'd also on that host. Those can run into the high 60's to 80's for temps.


----------



## gengar

straha20 said:


> They are a small business, in my state no less, so of course I want them to succeed, but the vast customer experience inconsistencies shown in this thread alone don't bode well.


"Succeed" is subject to some interpretation, but I wouldn't take Optimus' customer service issues as any threat to their existence. It seems obvious to me that Optimus is one of those enthusiast, side gig type businesses. As I've said before in this thread, this can be great for consumers because they are able to care less about profits and just focus on making the best products they can. The flip side of this is that because they don't need to care as much about profits, they also don't have to care about the customers, and Optimus clearly doesn't. But it also means that as long as they want to exist, they will.

Now if they wake up one day and decide to shut things down because they're losing too much money on this hobby, and that's in part a result of screwing over so many customers with their garbage customer service - of course that's a possibility.



Swiso said:


> What realistic ETA should I expect for a black satin full copper Threadripper block ?


The most realistic ETA for Optimus is never.


----------



## Swiso

An update...just purchased the satin-silver + raw copper version of the Threadripper CPU block...saw it back on stock.
Who care if is not black...at the end, is the performance that count...


----------



## Shawnb99

straha20 said:


> They are a small business, in my state no less, so of course I want them to succeed, but the vast customer experience inconsistencies shown in this thread alone don't bode well.


Some people are just salty and keep whining about it. Most times when people get good CS they don’t come here to rave about it while anytime someone gets bad service just once and they will ***** to everyone they can find.
Some haven’t stopped whining and bitching from the start and shouldn’t be reflective of the CS you’ll get.


----------



## Keith Myers

Agree. I don't care about the looks. Performance is what counts. I think you will be happy with the TR4 block. I certainly am with my Satin Black/Copper block I got when it was first released.


----------



## Section31

Keith Myers said:


> Agree. I don't care about the looks. Performance is what counts. I think you will be happy with the TR4 block. I certainly am with my Satin Black/Copper block I got when it was first released.


Thank you and Shawnb99 for getting this thread back more in order. The whining about shipping was getting kind out of hand. It's perfectly understandable to be unhappy with the situation but it probably something that you should e-mail Optimus privately at this point as they don't come here much.


----------



## Section31

Swiso said:


> An update...just purchased the satin-silver + raw copper version of the Threadripper CPU block...saw it back on stock.
> Who care if is not black...at the end, is the performance that count...


Nice. Some of us are just waiting for our chance to order stuff. Got to be patient in these times.


----------



## Swiso

Section31 said:


> Nice. Some of us are just waiting for our chance to order stuff. Got to be patient in these times.


Yes, would have been nice to have the black one, since all inside the case is black...but in the end, it won't matter....I will use EK ZMT soft tube anyway.....so,a nice looking and perfect setup would be for the next one in 5-6 years..


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys,

Yes, blocks are shipping. Whoever is left in batch 1, if it hasn't shipped, your block is being assembled and tested. Batch 2 follows right after, we're simply waiting on more nickel plated mid plates to be sent to us to assemble them and ship. Not the most informative update since last time, but we're working away, shipping product as soon as we humanly can.

We'll also be doing the b-stock (aka blemish) sale soon, since those are already all finished. We have lots of those available


----------



## Optimus WC

Swiso said:


> Yes, would have been nice to have the black one, since all inside the case is black...but in the end, it won't matter....I will use EK ZMT soft tube anyway.....so,a nice looking and perfect setup would be for the next one in 5-6 years..


Hey, shoot us an email with your order number and the color you want, changing anodizing colors is not a big deal.


----------



## Swiso

Optimus WC said:


> Hey, shoot us an email with your order number and the color you want, changing anodizing colors is not a big deal.


Ha ! Who would have thought that it could have been so easy ! 
Order #OP3215 and if possible would like the mount finish to be satin black+ raw copper.
Thanks A LOT !


----------



## evilbob2200

Swiso said:


> Ha ! Who would have thought that it could have been so easy !
> Order #OP3215 and if possible would like the mount finish to be satin black+ raw copper.
> Thanks A LOT !


gotta email them bro


----------



## Swiso

evilbob2200 said:


> gotta email them bro


Yes, did it before posting...


----------



## originxt

Sitting, waiting for ups like:


http://imgur.com/a/lHLK9oc


Lots of backed up packages, hopefully get it before 9 lol.


----------



## originxt

AHHH, need more POWER. Damn FTW3 power anomalies. Strangely, it is drawing less power than when it was just on air. Nevertheless, gpu never rose above 8c from water temps.










I am missing a screw however @Optimus WC , 1 16mm torx "red".


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> AHHH, need more POWER. Damn FTW3 power anomalies. Strangely, it is drawing less power than when it was just on air. Nevertheless, gpu never rose above 8c from water temps.
> 
> View attachment 2471572
> 
> 
> I am missing a screw however @Optimus WC , 1 16mm torx "red".


Nice results. I think ftw3 bios bugged honestly


----------



## Recipe7

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Yes, blocks are shipping. Whoever is left in batch 1, if it hasn't shipped, your block is being assembled and tested. Batch 2 follows right after, we're simply waiting on more nickel plated mid plates to be sent to us to assemble them and ship. Not the most informative update since last time, but we're working away, shipping product as soon as we humanly can.
> 
> We'll also be doing the b-stock (aka blemish) sale soon, since those are already all finished. We have lots of those available


Please let us know here when b-stock drops. I want to be first in line 😄

Are there various issues that would place units in the bstock category or was it one particular cosmetic defect?


----------



## straha20

Recipe7 said:


> Please let us know here when b-stock drops. I want to be first in line 😄
> 
> Are there various issues that would place units in the bstock category or was it one particular cosmetic defect?


I'm just waiting for the b-stock to go in stock and on sale before I get my batch 1 block


----------



## JGH_pc

Just going to ask here, because active thread.

I just redid the delid on my 8700k and lapped the IHS to mirror finish on the copper .

I've got some CM Nano Gel and some liquid metal laying around. Would it be unwise to LM the 3080 die when I mount the Byski block? Or should I just go with paste?


----------



## LiquidHaus

originxt said:


> Strangely, it is drawing less power than when it was just on air. Nevertheless, gpu never rose above 8c from water temps.


Hotter components do pull more wattage if not throttled by design. Could be the culprit I do know that many people have issues with BIOS on these cards. I haven't come across any issues myself though.


----------



## originxt

LiquidHaus said:


> Hotter components do pull more wattage if not throttled by design. Could be the culprit I do know that many people have issues with BIOS on these cards. I haven't come across any issues myself though.


Was hitting 485w now about 450-460w. I know hotter components are less efficient and draw more power but wasn't expecting that kind of drop.


----------



## Keith Myers

originxt said:


> Was hitting 485w now about 450-460w. I know hotter components are less efficient and draw more power but wasn't expecting that kind of drop.


How about the obvious . . . . . no fans on the card drawing power any more.


----------



## RockyMtnOC

Just got my shipping notification email! I imagine I'm close to one of the last orders in batch 1, ordered around 12:15AM that night. 

Thinking ahead before install - I'm not sure whether or not to pursue any kind of hard mods before things get bolted down. Install, especially with the Huge sheet of thermal pad, doesn't seem like a multiple assembly/disassembly kind of thing. 
Will we be able to purchase a new backplate pad if it became necessary?
Or, actually, would any future hard mods to the card not necessitate removing the back plate? Hm, need to study the instructions again...

And I'd like to see what, if anything, EVGA does in the future - maybe a proper fixed bios won't have as many power issues. It would be Really nice to have some kind of resolution, or even an update, from EVGA.

Either way, stoked to have this in my hands shortly! Build is gonna be kinda disjointed for a while. I'll only run the GPU loop for now, until a full rebuild with a new cpu/mobo gets integrated in. Don't think I want to dump the money on a block for a 9700k at this point.


----------



## originxt

Keith Myers said:


> How about the obvious . . . . . no fans on the card drawing power any more.


I already considered fan. I had 2 ftw3 prior and they all drew less power than my current one. Also, fans shouldn't matter as much especially since I never ran them full tilt. Didn't see fluctuations or changes in power usage.

But... Who the ****s knows at this point lol. Only a handful have the 500w bios working on their ftw3. Maybe it was the fans.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

RockyMtnOC said:


> Thinking ahead before install - I'm not sure whether or not to pursue any kind of hard mods before things get bolted down. Install, especially with the Huge sheet of thermal pad, doesn't seem like a multiple assembly/disassembly kind of thing.
> *Will we be able to purchase a new backplate pad if it became necessary?*


@Optimus WC
Very interested in this as well. Would like to buy pads for the backplate and block. I clean my blocks out every 9 months or so.



RockyMtnOC said:


> And I'd like to see what, if anything, EVGA does in the future - maybe a proper fixed bios won't have as many power issues. It would be Really nice to have some kind of resolution, or even an update, from EVGA.


Flash the xc3 bios and enjoy your 500-520w limit. You can forget about the bugged 500w bios forever after.


----------



## Kashtan

Hi. What about orders? in particular, I'm interested in mine, coldplate. I didn't think I would have to wait 2 months. This a little a thing really a difficult? And it is not known how long it will take. Happy New Year!


----------



## Optimus WC

*CARD POWER:* What you're seeing is likely due to the extreme cooling on the VRM. As heat climbs, efficiency goes down big time. So more performance with less power, that's the watercooling way 

*BACKPLATES:* Yes, you can purchase additional ones. That said, the 3mm Fuji on the back is pretty extreme. And few rips here and there aren't a big deal, since it compresses and fills gap. Thermal pads are technically "gap filler thermal compound" so don't worry about reusing it a bunch, we do 



Kashtan said:


> Hi. What about orders? in particular, I'm interested in mine, coldplate. I didn't think I would have to wait 2 months. This a little a thing really a difficult? And it is not known how long it will take. Happy New Year!


Not familiar with your exact order, but if it's ordered with other items, we typically ship everything at once to keep shipping cost low. If you need it asap, email us at contact @ optimuspc and we'll send it out!


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> *CARD POWER:* What you're seeing is likely due to the extreme cooling on the VRM. As heat climbs, efficiency goes down big time. So more performance with less power, that's the watercooling way
> 
> *BACKPLATES:* Yes, you can purchase additional ones. That said, the 3mm Fuji on the back is pretty extreme. And few rips here and there aren't a big deal, since it compresses and fills gap. Thermal pads are technically "gap filler thermal compound" so don't worry about reusing it a bunch, we do
> 
> 
> 
> Not familiar with your exact order, but if it's ordered with other items, we typically ship everything at once to keep shipping cost low. If you need it asap, email us at contact @ optimuspc and we'll send it out!


Batch 1 going to finish shipping today for real?  Long weekend coming up, and I love to be able to use the time to get my rig built!


----------



## WayWayUp

out for delivery
Optimus came through!


----------



## Raiden2a

Nice! May i ask what your order number was? Just trying to get an idea of where we're at


----------



## WayWayUp

2654


----------



## straha20

My order is 2674 and still no shipping notification as of yet.


----------



## LikelyNotTheNSA

Got both my Optimus AM4 waterblock and the 3090 FTW3 waterblock installed.

With ambient of 22 C and water temp of 30 C (at equilibrium):
5900x is running at 50-51 C at 142 watts
3090 is running at 37 C at 380 watts

CPU temp is incredible coming from an EK CH6/7 monoblock where my 2700x was sometimes running into the 80s C. GPU temp is great as well, just right where I expected it.

Time to start pushing these further!


----------



## WayWayUp

the results so far? ......they're unbelievable. WoW!


----------



## originxt

WayWayUp said:


> View attachment 2471961
> 
> 
> View attachment 2471962
> 
> 
> the results so far? ......they're unbelievable. WoW!


How're the results with LM? I just used the included KPX.


----------



## WayWayUp

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 video card benchmark result - Intel Core i9-10900KF Processor,ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. ROG MAXIMUS XII APEX (3dmark.com)


----------



## oreonutz

WayWayUp said:


> View attachment 2471961
> 
> 
> View attachment 2471962
> 
> 
> the results so far? ......they're unbelievable. WoW!


 She is gorgeous isn't she!??

I love it man! Is that the 3080 or 3090? Also, curious, I was thinking about going LM myself, although I am not sure how Much of a difference it will be, I know there will be one, just not sure if I should take the time to disessemble to apply the conformal coating and LM and do the Shunt Mod. Right now, my Delta Between Water Temp At Radiator Outlet, and GPU Die Temp is between 7c and 9c during Cyberpunk (Which seems to hit my GPU and CPU Harder than most of the Synthetic Benchmarks). I am pretty sure the only reason I can get up to 9c above water is because I currently have my CPU and GPU all in one big loop, and I took a 360 Out of the Loop because the Damn Pump Noise in the built in pump on the EK Phoenix that I was still using was pissing me off. So currently I am only running Dual 60mm Thick Alphacool 280mm Rads, and I only run the Fans at 50% Max, which means once the Temps reach Equilibrium, It can be a bit hotter than it was when I had the 360 in the loop. Especially because Cyberpunk seems to slam the 5900x too, so that helps bring up the Loop Temps a bit, contributing to the slightly higher 9c Delta at times. If I crank the fans up to 65% though, I don't see temps rise more than 7.5c Delta on the GPU, which is awesome.

Anyways, all that is to say, I am just wondering, with the Delta already being pretty low for those of us just using normal Paste, how much lower could we hope for with LM applied to the GPU. Are you seeing more like a 5 to 6c delta between water and GPU Die Temps? Just curious.


----------



## oreonutz

originxt said:


> How're the results with LM? I just used the included KPX.


LOL! My exact question, just way less wordy! LOL! I too am using the included KPX as I like that Paste a lot. What are your current Delta's between Water and GPU Die?


----------



## WayWayUp

i just started benchmarking
literally 2 port royal runs so far. i know i can go a lot further in both the memory and core

2,220Mhz from start to finish without any drop. very excited so far


----------



## oreonutz

WayWayUp said:


> NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 video card benchmark result - Intel Core i9-10900KF Processor,ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. ROG MAXIMUS XII APEX (3dmark.com)


Damn, 28c! What the hell is your Room Ambient, 20c???


----------



## oreonutz

WayWayUp said:


> i just started benchmarking
> literally 2 port royal runs so far. i know i can go a lot further in both the memory and core
> 
> 2,220Mhz from start to finish without any drop. very excited so far


Really curious to see, if you ran something like a SuperPosition (Which tends to hit the GPU a bit harder than Port Royale) on a 30m loop, what your Water Temp and GPU Temps (And the Delta Between those) would look like.

Specifically what I really want to know is, after letting the loop reach equilibrium under a heavy load on your GPU, what the Delta Between Water and GPU Die Temp would look like. Specifically because we know using the Included Kingpin Paste, and probably the same as with most traditional Thermal Pastes, we are seeing on average about an 8c Delta. And I am just really curious to know if that is improved significantly with LM. 

I know out of the gate, if you ran just 1 or 2 Port Royale Benchmarks it would show a massive improvement, but that's more an ability of the LM to more efficiently transfer heat into the water for your loop to deal with, so that will probably be a huge improvements for burst loads, but I am curious for sustained heavy gaming loads (like Cyberpunk 2077) or Heavy Productivity Loads, if the Delta will still be significantly lower. 

I know you are just playing with your new block @WayWayUp but if you happen to notice and report here at some point that would be awesome!


----------



## WayWayUp

A few things, i have a new temp and flow sensor but its not installed on this rig. I am moving my stuff into a core p7!
3 radiators and 3 pump/res so it will take me about a week from know until that is done with the holiday and all the hard-tubing involved

so im shooting in the dark here as i dont have a water temp reading. 
using the icx, its weird seeing the gpu core being so much colder than the rest of the readings. Between 6 to 8 degrees

I attribute that the the liquid metal

i was planning to use this piece here:
But my dog bit off piece i need that connects to port 









i know u want delta but i want to give u more reliable information and right now i cant

if you want however i can still run a stress test for 30min and report temps but that wont give u a water temp


----------



## WayWayUp

I'm gona go ahead and cancel the kingpin preorder


----------



## Bart

Nice!! That looks like a proper beast! Speaking of beast, I just installed my 5950X under the Optimus CPU block with Kingpin KPX paste, so far it's maxxing out in the low 70s under full load. I'll need to properly stress test for a few hours, but so far it looks like the Optimus block will have NO trouble keeping the 5950x under control.


----------



## Raiden2a

WayWayUp said:


> View attachment 2471982
> 
> 
> I'm gona go ahead and cancel the kingpin preorder


Dude yea baby! This is what i wanna see. My best on my 3090FTW3 is 14.9k on air https://www.3dmark.com/pr/596910. I cant waiiiiit. I am stuck in batch 2 though. So maybe next summer ill get a block


----------



## Hawkjoss

I am a silent observer here as I don’t have a 3080 ftw3 here, only foundation cpu block. 
happy to see that Optimus product lives up to the hype and really delivers outstanding results.
I hope they will iron out their delivery timelines and when they do, it’s going to be hard for others to compete with them. Great work, @Optimus WC


----------



## straha20

Raiden2a said:


> Dude yea baby! This is what i wanna see. My best on my 3090FTW3 is 14.9k on air https://www.3dmark.com/pr/596910. I cant waiiiiit. I am stuck in batch 2 though. So maybe next summer ill get a block


Batch 1 here, and still no shipping notification yet.


----------



## Eulerian

High-2900's here (near end of batch 2)


----------



## whaleboy_4096

Raiden2a said:


> Dude yea baby! This is what i wanna see. My best on my 3090FTW3 is 14.9k on air https://www.3dmark.com/pr/596910. I cant waiiiiit. I am stuck in batch 2 though. So maybe next summer ill get a block


I've only hit 14k once, and that was just barely. I'm seriously considering shunting the card to see if I can get a little more out of it, since I keep running up against that damn power limit (even with a higher watt bios). I'm not convinced it will help though, I think i just got a mediocre chip. I haven't decided yet... batch 2 here as well. I really hope the am4 block I ordered with the FTW block arrives as well. It would be a little ironic to have waited all this time for the GPU block to ship, only to be stuck waiting longer for the CPU block


----------



## Palito93

WayWayUp said:


> A few things, i have a new temp and flow sensor but its not installed on this rig. I am moving my stuff into a core p7!
> 3 radiators and 3 pump/res so it will take me about a week from know until that is done with the holiday and all the hard-tubing involved
> 
> so im shooting in the dark here as i dont have a water temp reading.
> using the icx, its weird seeing the gpu core being so much colder than the rest of the readings. Between 6 to 8 degrees
> 
> I attribute that the the liquid metal
> 
> i was planning to use this piece here:
> But my dog bit off piece i need that connects to port
> View attachment 2471979
> 
> 
> i know u want delta but i want to give u more reliable information and right now i cant
> 
> if you want however i can still run a stress test for 30min and report temps but that wont give u a water temp


I'm interested in those GPU temps after 30mins or so.
I don't know if i should use the kpx stuff or order some liquid metal since the Waterblock still hasn't shipped. 

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## WayWayUp

Palito93 said:


> I'm interested in those GPU temps after 30mins or so.
> I don't know if i should use the kpx stuff or order some liquid metal since the Waterblock still hasn't shipped.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


sure thing,

I'll run timespy in a loop. Heaven, and also some cyberpunk
It will have to wait until tomorrow though as I'm traveling today for NYE


----------



## originxt

I ran the Tse stress test, 2160 boost 42c. Water temp 34c ambient 28c. Passed with 99.4% stability.

All on my default fan/pump curve. 3x360 rads.


----------



## sakete

Anyone here recently go from a 3900X to a 5900X/5950X using the same AM4 Foundation block? Curious how much hotter those 59--X chips run.


----------



## Bart

sakete said:


> Anyone here recently go from a 3900X to a 5900X/5950X using the same AM4 Foundation block? Curious how much hotter those 59--X chips run.


Yup, I just did that. Now I haven't even begun to tweak this thing, but my 3900X used to top out around 66-67C, the 5950X tops out at around 72-73C. So I'm not seeing a drastic difference even with 4 more cores that run hotter. But like I said, once I start tweaking and uncorking PBO, that may change. EDIT: used Kingpin KPX thermal paste in both cases, exact same loop.


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Anyone here recently go from a 3900X to a 5900X/5950X using the same AM4 Foundation block? Curious how much hotter those 59--X chips run.





Bart said:


> Yup, I just did that. Now I haven't even begun to tweak this thing, but my 3900X used to top out around 66-67C, the 5950X tops out at around 72-73C. So I'm not seeing a drastic difference even with 4 more cores that run hotter. But like I said, once I start tweaking and uncorking PBO, that may change. EDIT: used Kingpin KPX thermal paste in both cases, exact same loop.



So I also did that same jump, except I went from a 3900x, to a 3950x, to a 5900x (and haven't yet been able to get my hands on a 5950x so for now am just enjoying my time with my 5900x) and my 3900x by far ran hotter than any of the other chips. The 3900x using the same Block on the same loop would hit 95c under a 10m Y-Cruncher BBP Test. My 3950x would hit 91c under the same test (By the way this is all in a 26c to 27c room ambient), and then with my 5900x, same block, same loop, same paste, it actually hits a crap ton lower under the same test, I top out at 81c, if I run it for 20m I can hit 83c, but it doesn't get any hotter than that, and thats the hottest load I can find to run this chip on, even small FFTs don't go above 75c. I am seriously impressed with my 5900x. I am not the only person who experienced lower thermals either. This is all out of the box by the way, no tweaks done to any of the CPU's. You can tweak the newer CPU's to run hotter, but I am really happy with performance out of the box for once, where I really wasn't with my previous Zen CPU's.




WayWayUp said:


> A few things, i have a new temp and flow sensor but its not installed on this rig. I am moving my stuff into a core p7!
> 3 radiators and 3 pump/res so it will take me about a week from know until that is done with the holiday and all the hard-tubing involved
> 
> so im shooting in the dark here as i dont have a water temp reading.
> using the icx, its weird seeing the gpu core being so much colder than the rest of the readings. Between 6 to 8 degrees
> 
> I attribute that the the liquid metal
> 
> i was planning to use this piece here:
> But my dog bit off piece i need that connects to port
> View attachment 2471979
> 
> 
> i know u want delta but i want to give u more reliable information and right now i cant
> 
> if you want however i can still run a stress test for 30min and report temps but that wont give u a water temp


That sucks about your dog eating your Kit. My Pets are strictly not allowed in my Computer rooms for that very reason. They aren't happy with it either because those are the rooms I spend the majority of my time in, but its easier then training them not to chew up my stuff, lol.

I can wait a week or 2 or 3, no biggie. I appreciate it. I may just find the time to pull out my Card and Add some LM Myself just to see. But its so much work... I am actually thinking about moving into a Core P5 here soon. I would move to the P7 but I can't find them in stock anywhere for a reasonable price. Have you had yours for a while?


----------



## WayWayUp

I can however report my cpu results
I'm using an optimus foundation block also with LM. After a long session of cyberpunk the other day i found that the hottest core at any point reached 64c and the rest all stayed in the 50s
This is at 5.3Ghz all core with 50 cache

they really do make the best blocks. cant wait to stress the gpu this weekend and see how hot it gets

also, right now i am shunted using 520w bios so i can pull a lot more power than standard ftw3. So i will test it at 80% power limit to give a more realistic and accurate result as i dont want to give you my results at 700-800 watts (although i can by request)


----------



## originxt

WayWayUp said:


> I can however report my cpu results
> I'm using an optimus foundation block also with LM. After a long session of cyberpunk the other day i found that the hottest core at any point reached 64c and the rest all stayed in the 50s
> This is at 5.3Ghz all core with 50 cache
> 
> they really do make the best blocks. cant wait to stress the gpu this weekend and see how hot it gets
> 
> also, right now i am shunted using 520w bios so i can pull a lot more power than standard ftw3. So i will test it at 80% power limit to give a more realistic and accurate result as i dont want to give you my results at 700-800 watts (although i can by request)


Feels bad having my card just being so power starved. Don't want to shunt so I'm hoping for fixes to the 500w bios. Kingpin 520w bios doesn't work either. Does the xc3 bios really work to draw 500w+?

My card seems most stable at 2160 in games due to power limits.

Unrelated but after trying out 2 bitspower compression fittings, they feel so much better quality/secure than the ekwb ones Im using. Didn't think it'd make such a difference.


----------



## skline00

Went from a stock 3900k on the foundation block to a stock 5900k with the Foundation block. The 5900k runs 4 degrees cooler!


----------



## Palito93

originxt said:


> Feels bad having my card just being so power starved. Don't want to shunt so I'm hoping for fixes to the 500w bios. Kingpin 520w bios doesn't work either. Does the xc3 bios really work to draw 500w+?
> 
> My card seems most stable at 2160 in games due to power limits.
> 
> Unrelated but after trying out 2 bitspower compression fittings, they feel so much better quality/secure than the ekwb ones Im using. Didn't think it'd make such a difference.


Does the 500W work for the 3080 aswell? Or is it only a 3090 thing? Didn't know you could flash the xc3 bios on it. Is there more info on it somewhere?

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## originxt

Palito93 said:


> Does the 500W work for the 3080 aswell? Or is it only a 3090 thing? Didn't know you could flash the xc3 bios on it. Is there more info on it somewhere?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


There should be a thread for the 3080 500w bios and as far as I've seen, it doesn't work either. Check the evga forums but I'd read with a grain of salt, a lot of those guys don't seem to know what they're talking about. Xc3 bios I've read only for the 3090 which is what I have so unsure about the 3080.


----------



## Palito93

originxt said:


> There should be a thread for the 3080 500w bios and as far as I've seen, it doesn't work either. Check the evga forums but I'd read with a grain of salt, a lot of those guys don't seem to know what they're talking about. Xc3 bios I've read only for the 3090 which is what I have so unsure about the 3080.


I've been browsing the forum for a while, the only thing I've seen was the xoc 450W beta bios. I'll have to dig deeper

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## KedarWolf

Palito93 said:


> I'm interested in those GPU temps after 30mins or so.
> I don't know if i should use the kpx stuff or order some liquid metal since the Waterblock still hasn't shipped.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


You can get rebranded KPX paste, the same as the original, just a rebranded package, from aliexpress for super cheap. The only issue is it can take a month or more to ship from China, at least it does to here in Canada.

And you can get decent Thermalright 12.8 w/mk 120mm x 120mm .5mm and 1mm thermal pads for $16 USD or so with a $4 off coupon you can Google for new buyers (a new account with a different email works as well). And on Amazon.com those pads in the 85mmx45mm are like $12. They are only $13 or so on amazon.ca with two days Prime shipping.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Congrats to those who've received blocks, lets see some build photos with them.


----------



## Bart

The only thing it's missing is an RGB shroud of some sort, it's the darkest part of my gaming rig!


----------



## straha20

LiquidHaus said:


> Congrats to those who've received blocks, lets see some build photos with them.


Can't wait to post some build photos of my own, but I need my block first! Batch 1 here, still no notification so looks like it's not going to ship the last week of December like they said last week, not that I actually took them seriously when they said that, but part of me did I guess because this just kind of sucks.


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> So I also did that same jump, except I went from a 3900x, to a 3950x, to a 5900x (and haven't yet been able to get my hands on a 5950x so for now am just enjoying my time with my 5900x) and my 3900x by far ran hotter than any of the other chips. The 3900x using the same Block on the same loop would hit 95c under a 10m Y-Cruncher BBP Test. My 3950x would hit 91c under the same test (By the way this is all in a 26c to 27c room ambient), and then with my 5900x, same block, same loop, same paste, it actually hits a crap ton lower under the same test, I top out at 81c, if I run it for 20m I can hit 83c, but it doesn't get any hotter than that, and thats the hottest load I can find to run this chip on, even small FFTs don't go above 75c. I am seriously impressed with my 5900x. I am not the only person who experienced lower thermals either. This is all out of the box by the way, no tweaks done to any of the CPU's. You can tweak the newer CPU's to run hotter, but I am really happy with performance out of the box for once, where I really wasn't with my previous Zen CPU's.


Cool (no pun intended), looks like a 5950x is in my future in the next 6 months or so and then I hope to pause on major hardware upgrades for the next 3-4 years at least (except a GPU jump perhaps as once PS5 and the new Xbox are more mature and more games are truly next gen, 3080 will become outdated quick).


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> The top blocks are techn, optimus/ekwb magnitude then heatkiller/aquacomputer then the rest. Techn and Optimus difficult to get.


Techn has only been shown on AM4 with narrow margins. Don’t know how anything else holds up, no reviews on Intel.
You are right that they aren’t with a pile of crap if you can’t get one.

I can’t speak for then as I don’t have an AM4 or Techn block. I can speak for the rest as I’ve tested the Optimus, EK magnitude HKIV pro and aqua computer. Before Optimus and Magnitude the HKIV pro had the lead. The Optimus and Magnitude ran neck to neck for me aquacompter I never could get the adjustment for the bow to cooperate so it didn’t perform very well.
Techn needs to work on the aesthetics in a bad way. Looks like an eBay special. They also need to get some samples out to more reviewers. I sent them a request for an Intel HEDT block and they didn’t even have the courtesy to respond.

I don’t see myself going AM4 as I think it’s at the end of its ropes much like X299 platform I’m running now. I’ll sit on what I have for a couple of years and see what’s going on then. If I was sitting at 7700K I may have tried AM4. When I went X299 AM4 wasn’t a thing yet. That’s the thing about PCs. Your hardware becomes obsolete before you have it tweaked to your liking. If you wait for the next best thing you will be waiting forever. A year makes a substantial difference, 2 years makes a huge difference.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Techn has only been shown on AM4 with narrow margins. Don’t know how anything else holds up, no reviews on Intel.
> You are right that they aren’t with a pile of crap if you can’t get one.
> 
> I can’t speak for then as I don’t have an AM4 or Techn block. I can speak for the rest as I’ve tested the Optimus, EK magnitude HKIV pro and aqua computer. Before Optimus and Magnitude the HKIV pro had the lead. The Optimus and Magnitude ran neck to neck for me aquacompter I never could get the adjustment for the bow to cooperate so it didn’t perform very well.
> Techn needs to work on the aesthetics in a bad way. Looks like an eBay special. They also need to get some samples out to more reviewers. I sent them a request for an Intel HEDT block and they didn’t even have the courtesy to respond.
> 
> I don’t see myself going AM4 as I think it’s at the end of its ropes much like X299 platform I’m running now. I’ll sit on what I have for a couple of years and see what’s going on then. If I was sitting at 7700K I may have tried AM4. When I went X299 AM4 wasn’t a thing yet. That’s the thing about PCs. Your hardware becomes obsolete before you have it tweaked to your liking. If you wait for the next best thing you will be waiting forever. A year makes a substantial difference, 2 years makes a huge difference.


Your the only one i know still on that x299 platform. It was fun experiment in space heater cooling. Still have space heater cooling setups but no longer on am4. It was worth it though, i might have never gotten that caselabs s8 lol


----------



## originxt

Section31 said:


> Your the only one i know still on that x299 platform. It was fun experiment in space heater cooling. Still have space heater cooling setups but no longer on am4. It was worth it though, i might have never gotten that caselabs s8 lol


I'm still on x299 but its been fine with the sigv2. Core temps are relatively close together.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Bart said:


> The only thing it's missing is an RGB shroud of some sort, it's the darkest part of my gaming rig!


I'm working on a solution to that!


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> I'm still on x299 but its been fine with the sigv2. Core temps are relatively close together.


Its been one descent platform in terms of length


----------



## straha20

I have been running an XSPC Raystorm Pro for my AM4 system. Currently I have a 3800x in it running at 4.3 ghz all core. I have not done a temperature stress test, just normal benches and day to day use. Ambient temps are usually around 23c and under 1 hour cinebench load, I peak around 38c cpu temp.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Your the only one i know still on that x299 platform. It was fun experiment in space heater cooling. Still have space heater cooling setups but no longer on am4. It was worth it though, i might have never gotten that caselabs s8 lol


There are quite a few people running X299. The first CPU I put in it was hot, 7900X due to the LCC die that they don’t do anymore. Then along came a 9940X that spanked any AM4 with good temps. Now a 10980XE that clocks to 5.1GHz and spanks everything AM4 especially in AVX workloads. At this point in time AM4 has come a long way but they still don’t clock for shyte. If I’m the only one you know of you don’t know very many or don’t venture out of AM4 much. Go back to the beginning of this thread. It was ALL X299 testing the Foundation (Thrash) and me on the Sig B2 all nickel. No doubt AMD has come a long way but they still aren’t there yet until you go into workstations with a TRX but no one uses them. Still Xeons which is Intels cash cow. Consumer market is a very small part of their business where it’s all of AMDs business. Still no comparison when you look at the net worth of each company. AMD sitting at $6 billion including GPUs where Intel makes them look like a candy store at $240 Billion. I’ve worked in more data centers than most people don’t even have a clue if the foot prints. Average financial data center is around a million Sq ft and not a single AMD on the property. None! Looking at independent Testing that’s unbiased the 9900K still beats anything AM4 In gaming.
If you want to go head to head with whatever AM4 you are running just say the word and we will start a different thread with mixed benchmarks. 3D marks doesn’t really count as that’s all GPU and I have an unfair advantage on most.

Still only one 6 core AM4 in the 5GHz OC club. I don’t believe there are any on HWbot either.

Eitjer way the X299 is at its last refresh and I don’t see AM: going any further either.


----------



## sakete

JustinThyme said:


> There are quite a few people running X299. The first CPU I put in it was hot, 7900X due to the LCC die that they don’t do anymore. Then along came a 9940X that spanked any AM4 with good temps. Now a 10980XE that clocks to 5.1GHz and spanks everything AM4 especially in AVX workloads. At this point in time AM4 has come a long way but they still don’t clock for shyte. If I’m the only one you know of you don’t know very many or don’t venture out of AM4 much. Go back to the beginning of this thread. It was ALL X299 testing the Foundation (Thrash) and me on the Sig B2 all nickel. No doubt AMD has come a long way but they still aren’t there yet until you go into workstations with a TRX but no one uses them. Still Xeons which is Intels cash cow. Consumer market is a very small part of their business where it’s all of AMDs business. Still no comparison when you look at the net worth of each company. AMD sitting at $6 billion including GPUs where Intel makes them look like a candy store at $240 Billion. I’ve worked in more data centers than most people don’t even have a clue if the foot prints. Average financial data center is around a million Sq ft and not a single AMD on the property. None! Looking at independent Testing that’s unbiased the 9900K still beats anything AM4 In gaming.
> If you want to go head to head with whatever AM4 you are running just say the word and we will start a different thread with mixed benchmarks. 3D marks doesn’t really count as that’s all GPU and I have an unfair advantage on most.
> 
> Still only one 6 core AM4 in the 5GHz OC club. I don’t believe there are any on HWbot either.
> 
> Eitjer way the X299 is at its last refresh and I don’t see AM: going any further either.


Well it's pretty much been confirmed that Zen 3 is the last architecture for AM4, next architecture will be AM5 (or whatever they'll call it) + DDR5.

I'll probably get zen 3 in the next 6 months and then skip one or two CPU architectures before I upgrade again. And if at that point in time Intel is the best, I'm going with Intel again, as I'd need to get a new mobo + ram + cpu + waterblock anyway.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> There are quite a few people running X299. The first CPU I put in it was hot, 7900X due to the LCC die that they don’t do anymore. Then along came a 9940X that spanked any AM4 with good temps. Now a 10980XE that clocks to 5.1GHz and spanks everything AM4 especially in AVX workloads. At this point in time AM4 has come a long way but they still don’t clock for shyte. If I’m the only one you know of you don’t know very many or don’t venture out of AM4 much. Go back to the beginning of this thread. It was ALL X299 testing the Foundation (Thrash) and me on the Sig B2 all nickel. No doubt AMD has come a long way but they still aren’t there yet until you go into workstations with a TRX but no one uses them. Still Xeons which is Intels cash cow. Consumer market is a very small part of their business where it’s all of AMDs business. Still no comparison when you look at the net worth of each company. AMD sitting at $6 billion including GPUs where Intel makes them look like a candy store at $240 Billion. I’ve worked in more data centers than most people don’t even have a clue if the foot prints. Average financial data center is around a million Sq ft and not a single AMD on the property. None! Looking at independent Testing that’s unbiased the 9900K still beats anything AM4 In gaming.
> If you want to go head to head with whatever AM4 you are running just say the word and we will start a different thread with mixed benchmarks. 3D marks doesn’t really count as that’s all GPU and I have an unfair advantage on most.
> 
> Still only one 6 core AM4 in the 5GHz OC club. I don’t believe there are any on HWbot either.
> 
> Eitjer way the X299 is at its last refresh and I don’t see AM: going any further either.


I should have stuck with 7920x and did what i did which was buy an external mo-ra3 lol. Learned it from you guys but i was holding out for sma8a revision or caselabs next case. I actually intend to go back to intel myself but thats for 2023 with meteorlake as long as intel doesn’t delay much.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Well it's pretty much been confirmed that Zen 3 is the last architecture for AM4, next architecture will be AM5 (or whatever they'll call it) + DDR5.
> 
> I'll probably get zen 3 in the next 6 months and then skip one or two CPU architectures before I upgrade again. And if at that point in time Intel is the best, I'm going with Intel again, as I'd need to get a new mobo + ram + cpu + waterblock anyway.


Its 2022/2023 - Battle between Am5 and Intel 1700 (Red cove - Meteorlake since its looks to be truly next gen chip from Intel). Same here hence why i am designing my loop so i just need to replace mobo,cpu,gpu, ram, and cpu/gpu block. Keep one nvme and add in an 3d xpoint drive as os/game drive


----------



## Bart

LiquidHaus said:


> I'm working on a solution to that!


Will you share or sell it?


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Its 2022/2023 - Battle between Am5 and Intel 1700 (Red cove - Meteorlake since its looks to be truly next gen chip from Intel). Same here hence why i am designing my loop so i just need to replace mobo,cpu,gpu, ram, and cpu/gpu block. Keep one nvme and add in an 3d xpoint drive as os/game drive


They are rolling out rocket lake this spring which is more 14nm just more clock boost and PCIE4 support . 10nm Xeons are being deployed in data centers right now in massive quantities although not being officially released. Alder lake second half of 2021 with LGA1700 and support for DDR5. Still too many pins short for me, I’m looking to move up and at 2066 now. Copper lake on socket 4189 looks promising with gold plated solder joints. That’s just what’s up in the next few months but I’m staying where I am for the next 2 years at least. Chasing the next big dog is past old for this old dog. Bottom line is my rig will smack the crap out of most anything out there on water or less (quit messing with LN2 and phase change some time ago). I can play the games loaded up now that either have or can be forced to support SLI with Nvidia inspector at max settings and can pool an 18 core CPU and two 2080Ti GPUs for serious workloads. I takes what I throw at it like it’s nothing and keeps chugging along. What does my employer give me for CAD? A freakin Lenovo P53 laptop which does OK with a Xeon E2276M and quadro RTX 5000 sporting 64GB ram but my home PC does better at rendering cad. That one generally stays in the dock and I pack around my X1 tablet for documentation on site. A lot lighter although it’s design is a direct rip off of a Microsoft surface with the exception of it having nothing but two USB C ports that are power and everything else external. Want it connect to a wired network? Have to break out a dongle that comes with it and gives you Ethernet, VGA and one USBA port. Wooo hooo! At least it comes with a dock where I can just plug in one USB C and charge it and have a HDMI to my monitor to use it on the desktop.
As for loop design, rads tubing and fittings last a long time with regular maintenance, Caselabs is bankrupt and blamed it on the cost of steel from China. They made some nice stuff but poorly managed. I’m unfortunately expecting Optimus to end up in the same boat sooner rather than later and people aren’t going to preorder then wait for the next generation to be released before getting their blocks for right now. They have had issue with the manufacturering and delivery since day one and always blame it on plating being outsourced. Sucks when you have a decent product but continually fail to deliver. We’re not even talking the shipping service used, just getting them made. Phase 1 and phase two, What Da futt is that? It’s not like you have a million piece quota and when people see not in stock and do web searches and find the same story seen here in multiple places they just make for a good marketing engine for those who can provide parts in a timely manner. It’s not uncommon for hot items to fly off the shelves for a couple of months when first introduced but this has been going on for a couple of years. I generally replace pumps whether they need it or not on every new build and with socket changes and GPU changes it’s almost always new blocks. I think the first one i actually made it through two CPU platforms with was an HKIV.


----------



## JustinThyme

sakete said:


> Well it's pretty much been confirmed that Zen 3 is the last architecture for AM4, next architecture will be AM5 (or whatever they'll call it) + DDR5.
> 
> I'll probably get zen 3 in the next 6 months and then skip one or two CPU architectures before I upgrade again. And if at that point in time Intel is the best, I'm going with Intel again, as I'd need to get a new mobo + ram + cpu + waterblock anyway.


I’d wait that 6 months as Intel 1700 supporting PCIE4 and DDR5 will be out second half. Don’t know what AMD will have as they don’t put out a roadmap like Intel does. They are just like “Oh BTW, here’s our new shyte!” What still makes me laugh is how many folks are strapped to Zen like a POA but how many were crying on how many years it was behind in launch after it was announced. Best you can do is plan out like 6 months ahead. Anything past that and you are steadily chasing things that may or may not exist on a specific timeline and may or may not get scalped which is really starting to chap my a$$. I wish people would stop buying from scalpers! After they get burned a few times and have to dump what they have for a loss they will stop but not as long as people will pay well above retail like what’s on fleabay now, $1200 for a 5950X that has an MSRP of $799. I’d buy a 3960X TRX4 on a Zenith II extreme before I paid that much for a 5950X AM4.

When it comes to high $$ parts I wait until Microcenter has it. Waited more than a year for a 10980XE but at launch they were scarce with scalpers selling them for $2K or close. I got mine from Microcenter for $819 less a $200 rewards deal so $619. Did the same with my 2080Tis. While people were still scalping FE cards I got my MC insider email for the Strix O11G OC cards for less than the MSRP of the FE cards at $849 each and got sequential serial numbers and Two free games. I sold off one set of the games by taking one card to a friend to let him put it in his machine, get the games, then give it back. I installed the other solo in my rig to get the promos, then added the second. Codes came from MC, not ASUS.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> They are rolling out rocket lake this spring which is more 14nm just more clock boost and PCIE4 support . 10nm Xeons are being deployed in data centers right now in massive quantities although not being officially released. Alder lake second half of 2021 with LGA1700 and support for DDR5. Still too many pins short for me, I’m looking to move up and at 2066 now. Copper lake on socket 4189 looks promising with gold plated solder joints. That’s just what’s up in the next few months but I’m staying where I am for the next 2 years at least. Chasing the next big dog is past old for this old dog. Bottom line is my rig will smack the crap out of most anything out there on water or less (quit messing with LN2 and phase change some time ago). I can play the games loaded up now that either have or can be forced to support SLI with Nvidia inspector at max settings and can pool an 18 core CPU and two 2080Ti GPUs for serious workloads. I takes what I throw at it like it’s nothing and keeps chugging along. What does my employer give me for CAD? A freakin Lenovo P53 laptop which does OK with a Xeon E2276M and quadro RTX 5000 sporting 64GB ram but my home PC does better at rendering cad. That one generally stays in the dock and I pack around my X1 tablet for documentation on site. A lot lighter although it’s design is a direct rip off of a Microsoft surface with the exception of it having nothing but two USB C ports that are power and everything else external. Want it connect to a wired network? Have to break out a dongle that comes with it and gives you Ethernet, VGA and one USBA port. Wooo hooo! At least it comes with a dock where I can just plug in one USB C and charge it and have a HDMI to my monitor to use it on the desktop.
> As for loop design, rads tubing and fittings last a long time with regular maintenance, Caselabs is bankrupt and blamed it on the cost of steel from China. They made some nice stuff but poorly managed. I’m unfortunately expecting Optimus to end up in the same boat sooner rather than later and people aren’t going to preorder then wait for the next generation to be released before getting their blocks for right now. They have had issue with the manufacturering and delivery since day one and always blame it on plating being outsourced. Sucks when you have a decent product but continually fail to deliver. We’re not even talking the shipping service used, just getting them made. Phase 1 and phase two, What Da futt is that? It’s not like you have a million piece quota and when people see not in stock and do web searches and find the same story seen here in multiple places they just make for a good marketing engine for those who can provide parts in a timely manner. It’s not uncommon for hot items to fly off the shelves for a couple of months when first introduced but this has been going on for a couple of years. I generally replace pumps whether they need it or not on every new build and with socket changes and GPU changes it’s almost always new blocks. I think the first one i actually made it through two CPU platforms with was an HKIV.


Great info. Just great to see you around here again


----------



## originxt

JustinThyme said:


> When it comes to high $$ parts I wait until Microcenter has it. Waited more than a year for a 10980XE but at launch they were scarce with scalpers selling them for $2K or close. I got mine from Microcenter for $819 less a $200 rewards deal so $619.


I was one of the lucky few who got the 10980xe close to launch (december 2019) for retail on newegg. I fondly remember the days of turtlerig as he asked about availability frequently and didn't plan on overclocking. I believe he eventually got it from an Intel insider? Loved the guy.

I see you noticed me go for 5.2ghz last week just to top your score barely xD.

Also, happy new year. May your temps be low and frequencies high. Now if I can only figure out how to oc gpus better, I suck at it so far.


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> I was one of the lucky few who got the 10980xe close to launch (december 2019) for retail on newegg. I fondly remember the days of turtlerig as he asked about availability frequently and didn't plan on overclocking. I believe he eventually got it from an Intel insider? Loved the guy.
> 
> I see you noticed me go for 5.2ghz last week just to top your score barely xD.
> 
> Also, happy new year. May your temps be low and frequencies high. Now if I can only figure out how to oc gpus better, I suck at it so far.


Nice. It was definitely fun times that x299 overclocking threads. It was final push to make move to ambient water cooling


----------



## LiquidHaus

Bart said:


> Will you share or sell it?


Yessir! That is the plan! Will most likely will be a DIY product, in regards to wiring it up. But the shroud itself will be ready to go.


----------



## sakete

JustinThyme said:


> I’d wait that 6 months as Intel 1700 supporting PCIE4 and DDR5 will be out second half. Don’t know what AMD will have as they don’t put out a roadmap like Intel does. They are just like “Oh BTW, here’s our new shyte!” What still makes me laugh is how many folks are strapped to Zen like a POA but how many were crying on how many years it was behind in launch after it was announced. Best you can do is plan out like 6 months ahead. Anything past that and you are steadily chasing things that may or may not exist on a specific timeline and may or may not get scalped which is really starting to chap my a$$. I wish people would stop buying from scalpers! After they get burned a few times and have to dump what they have for a loss they will stop but not as long as people will pay well above retail like what’s on fleabay now, $1200 for a 5950X that has an MSRP of $799. I’d buy a 3960X TRX4 on a Zenith II extreme before I paid that much for a 5950X AM4.
> 
> When it comes to high $$ parts I wait until Microcenter has it. Waited more than a year for a 10980XE but at launch they were scarce with scalpers selling them for $2K or close. I got mine from Microcenter for $819 less a $200 rewards deal so $619. Did the same with my 2080Tis. While people were still scalping FE cards I got my MC insider email for the Strix O11G OC cards for less than the MSRP of the FE cards at $849 each and got sequential serial numbers and Two free games. I sold off one set of the games by taking one card to a friend to let him put it in his machine, get the games, then give it back. I installed the other solo in my rig to get the promos, then added the second. Codes came from MC, not ASUS.


Well, if I do decide to get another cpu in the next 6 months, it'll 100% be a 5950X. As I wouldn't have to replace my mobo or Ram or waterblock, so an easy upgrade. And then I'll sit on that system for a few years at least.

I don't like upgrading my system too often, as it gets too costly, and also when I then do finally upgrade I will notice the difference more. My previous system was from 2015, i7 4790K (or 4970K? Devil's canyon I believe).

When I got that 3900X, that was a huge speed bump and I definitely noticed it. The alternative is that I just ride out this 3900X and get a new setup in 3-4 years).


----------



## LiquidHaus

BH Photo has been repeatedly screwing me over with my 5950X and 5900X order. Was supposed to get them at the beginning of December. Now it'll be sometime during Q1...?

My 3950X is still going super strong. 4.5ghz all core. Honestly have zero complaints with it. But gaming with the 5600X and doing some comparison's... the 5000 series does indeed make a difference with the gaming aspect of things.


----------



## JustinThyme

LiquidHaus said:


> BH Photo has been repeatedly screwing me over with my 5950X and 5900X order. Was supposed to get them at the beginning of December. Now it'll be sometime during Q1...?
> 
> My 3950X is still going super strong. 4.5ghz all core. Honestly have zero complaints with it. But gaming with the 5600X and doing some comparison's... the 5000 series does indeed make a difference with the gaming aspect of things.


It’s not just them, it’s everywhere except eBay with a healthy profit margin built in. Same thing happens with the 10980XE. None to be had except scalpers and now they are readily available at and often below MSRP. B&H is about reliable and reputable as they come. I’ve bought a lot of stuff from them over the years. Some PC and some camera gear. Their store in Manhattan is wild. You go to a counter to place your order, they give you a ticket, you go down to the cashier and pay then your stuff comes down on a conveyor to pick up with your receipt. All well oiled machine. If they can’t get them then they can’t get them. They have them for around the $1200 mark on fleabay. Freakin 24 core TRX is only $200 more but then you have to buy another MOBO. I’m afraid you are either going to have to play the waiting game or pay the scalpers. Crappy I know but that’s just the way it is.


----------



## JustinThyme

originxt said:


> I was one of the lucky few who got the 10980xe close to launch (december 2019) for retail on newegg. I fondly remember the days of turtlerig as he asked about availability frequently and didn't plan on overclocking. I believe he eventually got it from an Intel insider? Loved the guy.
> 
> I see you noticed me go for 5.2ghz last week just to top your score barely xD.
> 
> Also, happy new year. May your temps be low and frequencies high. Now if I can only figure out how to oc gpus better, I suck at it so far.


Yeah I saw that.....Bone head!! LOL My 2080Tis OC awesomely.
I’ve only had my 10980XE for a couple of months. $619 after reward points at Microcenter now they went back up. They had them listed for $819 for over a month. Now like $949 which is still better than just about anyone else. I just got mine back in the case and not liking what I’m getting on loop temps. Worked much better on the box top with a single 480 EK PE rad and ML 120 fans with 140 Xres and just air cooled 1080 back up. Now time to think about it. I pulled some fans that I’ll probably put the pull fans back on the 480 in the bottom. Can fit them in the front but that’s a 30mm rad so I don’t think that will help much and it’s a tight squeeze. I’ll either figure it out or get off $1800 for the 900W koolance chiller and just have fans for moving air in the case.


----------



## criskoe

@Optimus WC 

Any updates on your XC3 blocks?


----------



## Wihglah

So has everyone in the FTW3 Batch 1 received a shipping notification?

Anyone in Batch 2?


----------



## Johnny_Utah

Wihglah said:


> So has everyone in the FTW3 Batch 1 received a shipping notification?
> 
> Anyone in Batch 2?


Early/Mid Batch 2 here, still waiting patiently...wondering as well if Batch 1 has finished shipping.


----------



## OlamFam

Early batch #2 here... nothing.


----------



## JGH_pc

It's crazy that they've gone silent again and still missed their last few promised dates. Majority of batch 2 week after xmas said on 12/22 and it seems none of batch 2 has shipped at all yet. How do you miss dates that are only 7-10 days out?

I thought after the email that was well received they were learning their lesson. Seems nothing has changed at all.

Glad I bailed, my Byski block is in state now for delivery Monday.


----------



## straha20

Wihglah said:


> So has everyone in the FTW3 Batch 1 received a shipping notification?
> 
> Anyone in Batch 2?


I have NOT received my shipping notification for my FTW3 batch 1 block yet. So batch 1 has not completed yet. As of right now...


OrderDatePayment StatusFulfillment StatusTotal#OP2674October 20, 2020PaidUnfulfilled$418.48


----------



## straha20

JGH_pc said:


> It's crazy that they've gone silent again and still missed their last few promised dates. Majority of batch 2 week after xmas said on 12/22 and it seems none of batch 2 has shipped at all yet. How do you miss dates that are only 7-10 days out?
> 
> I thought after the email that was well received they were learning their lesson. Seems nothing has changed at all.
> 
> Glad I bailed, my Byski block is in state now for delivery Monday.


Hell, they missed a date that was less than 72 hours out. Remember that a couple of weeks ago Friday, they said batch 1 would continue to ship over the weekend, and finish shipping Monday. That was over two weeks ago now.


----------



## JGH_pc

straha20 said:


> I have NOT received my shipping notification for my FTW3 batch 1 block yet. So batch 1 has not completed yet.


I think there are at max 2 people working at Optimus and not even full time. Must be a hobbiest fly by night operation. I can't explain how long it seems to take them to assemble blocks unless it's only like 2 people doing it for a few hours a day.


----------



## Palito93

straha20 said:


> I have NOT received my shipping notification for my FTW3 batch 1 block yet. So batch 1 has not completed yet. As of right now...
> 
> 
> OrderDatePayment StatusFulfillment StatusTotal#OP2674October 20, 2020PaidUnfulfilled$418.48


What scares me the most is that I'm batch 2 and I'm nearly 200 orders after you. I'm 28xx. I'll probably never get mine lol

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawnb99

It’s crazy that’s it’s New Years and people would take time off. Like really they should drop everything cause I’m so entitled that holidays are too much.
I’m glad some people bailed as well, maybe they will stop bitching like a little child now and move on but I guess that’s too much to ask


----------



## acoustic

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah I saw that.....Bone head!! LOL My 2080Tis OC awesomely.
> I’ve only had my 10980XE for a couple of months. $619 after reward points at Microcenter now they went back up. They had them listed for $819 for over a month. Now like $949 which is still better than just about anyone else. I just got mine back in the case and not liking what I’m getting on loop temps. Worked much better on the box top with a single 480 EK PE rad and ML 120 fans with 140 Xres and just air cooled 1080 back up. Now time to think about it. I pulled some fans that I’ll probably put the pull fans back on the 480 in the bottom. Can fit them in the front but that’s a 30mm rad so I don’t think that will help much and it’s a tight squeeze. I’ll either figure it out or get off $1800 for the 900W koolance chiller and just have fans for moving air in the case.


As stupid as it would be to buy it, that 10980xe at Microcenter is super, super tempting LOL. My store has 2 in stock..


----------



## straha20

Shawnb99 said:


> It’s crazy that’s it’s New Years and people would take time off. Like really they should drop everything cause I’m so entitled that holidays are too much.
> I’m glad some people bailed as well, maybe they will stop bitching like a little child now and move on but I guess that’s too much to ask


What's crazy is that they said they would be working over the holidays and weekends. If they were taking time off, they should have/would have said so. Like that Friday a week before Christmas, they should have just said they would get back to it the Monday after New Years. At least they would have set expectations, but no, they chose to say they would keep right on working, and that batch 1 would be complete by Dec 21, and then it was batch 1 would be done the last week of December, and batch 2 would start shipping after Christmas...


----------



## JGH_pc

Shawnb99 said:


> It’s crazy that’s it’s New Years and people would take time off. Like really they should drop everything cause I’m so entitled that holidays are too much.
> I’m glad some people bailed as well, maybe they will stop bitching like a little child now and move on but I guess that’s too much to ask


Lmao. It's crazy that people are defending these guys. It's not crazy that people are disgruntled after they took $400 from us and then lied incessantly for months about delivery dates. Why do you even care? Optimus is to blame, not the people who got taken for a ride.

Get off your damn "holier than thou" high horse and stop throwing shade at people.


----------



## JGH_pc

straha20 said:


> What's crazy is that they said they would be working over the holidays and weekends. If they were taking time off, they should have/would have said so. Like that Friday a week before Christmas, they should have just said they would get back to it the Monday after New Years. At least they would have set expectations, but no, they chose to say they would keep right on working, and that batch 1 would be complete by Dec 21, and then it was batch 1 would be done the last week of December, and batch 2 would start shipping after Christmas...


That's right, Optimus said they would be working through the holidays. But I guess it's too much to ask of poor lil' Optimus to do anything they say. We should stop being so entitled, I mean expecting someone to do a thing they promised what kind of sad millennial drivel is that?


----------



## straha20

JGH_pc said:


> That's right, Optimus said they would be working through the holidays. But I guess it's too much to ask of poor lil' Optimus to do anything they say. We should stop being so entitled, I mean expecting someone to do a thing they promised what kind of sad millennial drivel is that?


I suppose a point could be made is that the true craziness lies in us paying customers for actually taking what Optimus says seriously. Yeah, it was nuts of me to put any stock in what they were saying once it made it into December, and I mean that seriously. It should have just been in one ear and out the other with flat out disbelief. The whole definition of insanity and all that. I'm sure I'll get my block eventually


----------



## WayWayUp

as per requests i left hwinfo minimized as i played cyberpunk for a long session. Didnt record time but it was over an hour

according to hwinfo my max gpu temp was *36 C *with *34 C* average. Whats interesting is using icx all other temp readings were in the 40s only the core stayed in the 30s

This test was done with 76% power limit
using 430w base x 76% x 1.71 = 558watts power limit

I did another test with 100% power so 430x1.71= 735w power limit
In this test the core reached 42C

I have good rads but one of the issues i came across was that the heat dump was substantial and my room temp was noticeably very warm because of it
I want to try the high watt test again but this time with a window cracked slightly open to keep room temp at 71-72 F
I will re-report the shunted stats again when i do this test and hopefully can stay in the 30s like my first test with lower power limit

overall the results are very good and the core stays cool especially with the LM

right now, my loop has a 10900k in it. When i finish my new case i will be adding an additional ek 420 CE radiator and give my gpu its own loop. The gpu will have 2x 420s for itself and both will be setup in a push pull so i imagine temps will be even better

edit: forgot to add i maxed out the power slider in the second test. first test i did not. using PX1


----------



## JustinThyme

WayWayUp said:


> as per requests i left hwinfo minimized as i played cyberpunk for a long session. Didnt record time but it was over an hour
> 
> according to hwinfo my max gpu temp was *36 C *with *34 C* average. Whats interesting is using icx all other temp readings were in the 40s only the core stayed in the 30s
> 
> This test was done with 76% power limit
> using 430w base x 76% x 1.71 = 558watts power limit
> 
> I did another test with 100% power so 430x1.71= 735w power limit
> In this test the core reached 42C
> 
> I have good rads but one of the issues i came across was that the heat dump was substantial and my room temp was noticeably very warm because of it
> I want to try the high watt test again but this time with a window cracked slightly open to keep room temp at 71-72 F
> I will re-report the shunted stats again when i do this test and hopefully can stay in the 30s like my first test with lower power limit
> 
> overall the results are very good and the core stays cool especially with the LM
> 
> right now, my loop has a 10900k in it. When i finish my new case i will be adding an additional ek 420 CE radiator and give my gpu its own loop. The gpu will have 2x 420s for itself and both will be setup in a push pull so i imagine temps will be even better
> 
> edit: forgot to add i maxed out the power slider in the second test. first test i did not. using PX1


yeah heat has to go somewhere. I get the same thing with a 10980XE and a pair of 2080Tis. 
It’s part of the experience. If you are getting decent temps then no need for more rads. Too many, especially in the case can actually be counter productive. Two loops is more for aesthetics IMO. I added a rad and my temps went up. Mostly due to rads fighting for airflow or a rad pulling in the hot air from another. When I first set my rig up I had to wait for anyone other than POS narrow to make decent blocks and ram them on air. Of course they ram hot and would throttle with fans at full bore and dump all that heat in my case. It actually made my loop temp with just the CPU with very little load go up drastically, more than running AVX workloads on the CPU with GPUs at idle. Add GPUs to loop and worked as expected. 40C on the core/a is about as good as it gets with an ambient of 24C for me. If the ambient goes up so do the temps. I use aquaero controllers to regulate fan curves to keep liquid temp under 32C. I let it go higher and I lose stability on my OC of both CPU and GPUs. I’m actually thinking of either a MO-RA or chiller (not for subbient, just to keep loop at ambient). No matter it’s still going to dump heat somewhere. With the chiller I can fabricate a duct to pump the hot air out the window. With the MO-RA I can put it in the window this time of year pulling air in to get awesome results and flip it in the summer to blow the hot air out. I actually put a small window AC, 5000 BTU right behind my PC and direct the output towards PC. That helps tremendously.


----------



## oreonutz

LiquidHaus said:


> Yessir! That is the plan! Will most likely will be a DIY product, in regards to wiring it up. But the shroud itself will be ready to go.


I'll throw down for one of those, save one for me!


----------



## oreonutz

LiquidHaus said:


> BH Photo has been repeatedly screwing me over with my 5950X and 5900X order. Was supposed to get them at the beginning of December. Now it'll be sometime during Q1...?
> 
> My 3950X is still going super strong. 4.5ghz all core. Honestly have zero complaints with it. But gaming with the 5600X and doing some comparison's... the 5000 series does indeed make a difference with the gaming aspect of things.


You and me both for B&H. I really am hating them right now. They took our orders under the term "Pre-Order" and then switched it to a "Back-Order" the second we hit purchase. And they keep pushing back the time of delivery. I get they are hard to come across, but you would think by now they would start fulfilling some of those early morning orders.



JGH_pc said:


> I think there are at max 2 people working at Optimus and not even full time. Must be a hobbiest fly by night operation. I can't explain how long it seems to take them to assemble blocks unless it's only like 2 people doing it for a few hours a day.


They are a startup company from enthusiasts such as ourselves. One of them is a long time member of this forum. I think its obvious from watching their communications from the past year, that they have a cycle. They report when they have news, they are silent when they don't. They do respond to refund requests, usually same day, but always within 48 hours. So they are definitely making the products, its just a matter of time until they go out. Agree with it or disagree, its a pattern that is pretty easy to follow at this point. I think it would be wise for anyone who orders to recognize this pattern before ordering, so you know what you are dealing with. They will grow eventually, I have a feeling they are going to be one of the better companies, until then they are just doing what they can to get the products out with the personel they have in a pandemic. I am pretty sure we would all prefer them to hire more people and push out more products, but they are perfectionists, and clearly this works for them, even if it doesn't work for some of their customers. Hopefully batch one will be finished up shortly after the new year break and we can look forward to those in batch 2 getting their orders.



WayWayUp said:


> as per requests i left hwinfo minimized as i played cyberpunk for a long session. Didnt record time but it was over an hour
> 
> according to hwinfo my max gpu temp was *36 C *with *34 C* average. Whats interesting is using icx all other temp readings were in the 40s only the core stayed in the 30s
> 
> This test was done with 76% power limit
> using 430w base x 76% x 1.71 = 558watts power limit
> 
> I did another test with 100% power so 430x1.71= 735w power limit
> In this test the core reached 42C
> 
> I have good rads but one of the issues i came across was that the heat dump was substantial and my room temp was noticeably very warm because of it
> I want to try the high watt test again but this time with a window cracked slightly open to keep room temp at 71-72 F
> I will re-report the shunted stats again when i do this test and hopefully can stay in the 30s like my first test with lower power limit
> 
> overall the results are very good and the core stays cool especially with the LM
> 
> right now, my loop has a 10900k in it. When i finish my new case i will be adding an additional ek 420 CE radiator and give my gpu its own loop. The gpu will have 2x 420s for itself and both will be setup in a push pull so i imagine temps will be even better
> 
> edit: forgot to add i maxed out the power slider in the second test. first test i did not. using PX1


Thank you, I appreciate that. Do you happen to have a rough guestimate on your room temp during this test. I know you mentioned it had gone up, and that probably accounts in the 2 degree rise in max temp vs average, your temps probably rose 2c in your hour duration. With a Room ambient we can start to workout how much better LM is then the Kingpin Paste on these blocks.


----------



## straha20

oreonutz said:


> You and me both for B&H. I really am hating them right now. They took our orders under the term "Pre-Order" and then switched it to a "Back-Order" the second we hit purchase. And they keep pushing back the time of delivery. I get they are hard to come across, but you would think by now they would start fulfilling some of those early morning orders.
> 
> 
> 
> They are a startup company from enthusiasts such as ourselves. One of them is a long time member of this forum. I think its obvious from watching their communications from the past year, that they have a cycle. They report when they have news, they are silent when they don't. They do respond to refund requests, usually same day, but always within 48 hours. So they are definitely making the products, its just a matter of time until they go out. Agree with it or disagree, its a pattern that is pretty easy to follow at this point. I think it would be wise for anyone who orders to recognize this pattern before ordering, so you know what you are dealing with. They will grow eventually, I have a feeling they are going to be one of the better companies, until then they are just doing what they can to get the products out with the personel they have in a pandemic. I am pretty sure we would all prefer them to hire more people and push out more products, but they are perfectionists, and clearly this works for them, even if it doesn't work for some of their customers. Hopefully batch one will be finished up shortly after the new year break and we can look forward to those in batch 2 getting their orders.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, I appreciate that. Do you happen to have a rough guestimate on your room temp during this test. I know you mentioned it had gone up, and that probably accounts in the 2 degree rise in max temp vs average, your temps probably rose 2c in your hour duration. With a Room ambient we can start to workout how much better LM is then the Kingpin Paste on these blocks.


I think one lesson for sure is to not give authoritative timelines that rely on things beyond their control. Rather than saying on a Friday that all batch 1 blocks will be finished shipping by Monday, they should have said...We don't have all the parts in hand to finish batch 1, and have been having QC issues with the parts we do have in hand, so it is still going to be a while to finish batch 1, and then batch 2 will start with the same potential delays.

I asked them point blank even before that one Friday update when they were giving shipping timelines if they actually had all the parts in hand, and they did not answer. My suspicion at that point was that they did not actually have the parts in hand to meet the timelines they were stating. Instead they just gave new, authoritative timelines, until finally, they had to break silence and talk about the QC issues. And then they turned right around and gave more timelines that they didn't and likely couldn't meet because of the same issues. My guess is that when they gave the timeline a couple of weeks ago of batch 1 finished and batch 2 starting to ship last week, they gave it without actually having all the parts in hand and ready to go. I imagine they still don't actually have all the parts in hand and passed QC to finish batch 1 let alone starting on batch 2.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

Yes, we've been at the factory, though we did take Christmas day off  

In our big email, the update said all of batch 1 -- save for a few people -- would get their blocks. The last few got delayed because of the plating issue. Like 5 people, I believe. Like we mentioned, when we did the first round of QC, all parts looked good. But when we got the parts into assembly and under the magnifying glass, we discovered some cosmetic issues that needed to be fixed. So then we went into overdrive finding the issues and fixing and resolving.

The plating for the next large group of midplates is said to be done by the 8th (this friday), we tried to expedite it even more but not everyone wants to work over christmas and weekends. So that group is the last 5 or so of batch 1 and then batch 2. 

I don't have exact estimates for the rest of batch 2, theyre either in plating or being reworked and then going to plating. 

Once I know the plating times, I'll update with more info. 

The good news for others is we've optimized production in a number of ways because of these issues, so the FTW blocks will be available for regular sale roughly mid january. And then we're onto Strix, XC3, FE and Kingpin.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Yes, we've been at the factory, though we did take Christmas day off
> 
> In our big email, the update said all of batch 1 -- save for a few people -- would get their blocks. The last few got delayed because of the plating issue. Like 5 people, I believe. Like we mentioned, when we did the first round of QC, all parts looked good. But when we got the parts into assembly and under the magnifying glass, we discovered some cosmetic issues that needed to be fixed. So then we went into overdrive finding the issues and fixing and resolving.
> 
> The plating for the next large group of midplates is said to be done by the 8th (this friday), we tried to expedite it even more but not everyone wants to work over christmas and weekends. So that group is the last 5 or so of batch 1 and then batch 2.
> 
> I don't have exact estimates for the rest of batch 2, theyre either in plating or being reworked and then going to plating.
> 
> Once I know the plating times, I'll update with more info.
> 
> The good news for others is we've optimized production in a number of ways because of these issues, so the FTW blocks will be available for regular sale roughly mid january. And then we're onto Strix, XC3, FE and Kingpin.


So just to be clear, the rest of batch 1 should not expect anything next week, and could possibly be shipping as early as mid January?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Yes, we've been at the factory, though we did take Christmas day off
> 
> In our big email, the update said all of batch 1 -- save for a few people -- would get their blocks. The last few got delayed because of the plating issue. Like 5 people, I believe. Like we mentioned, when we did the first round of QC, all parts looked good. But when we got the parts into assembly and under the magnifying glass, we discovered some cosmetic issues that needed to be fixed. So then we went into overdrive finding the issues and fixing and resolving.
> 
> The plating for the next large group of midplates is said to be done by the 8th (this friday), we tried to expedite it even more but not everyone wants to work over christmas and weekends. So that group is the last 5 or so of batch 1 and then batch 2.
> 
> I don't have exact estimates for the rest of batch 2, theyre either in plating or being reworked and then going to plating.
> 
> Once I know the plating times, I'll update with more info.
> 
> The good news for others is we've optimized production in a number of ways because of these issues, so the FTW blocks will be available for regular sale roughly mid january. And then we're onto Strix, XC3, FE and Kingpin.


When you say onto Kingpin, how long? I have an ftw3 and a kingpin with the ftw3 block ordered in batch 2. I really want to keep the kingpin but do not want to wait a long time for a block. I need to decide which card I'll keep soon and that choice is entirely based on block availability. My Kingpin with an optimus block would be f'ing amazing.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> And then we're onto Strix, XC3, FE and Kingpin.


In this order? Am waiting for the KPE block


----------



## oreonutz

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Yes, we've been at the factory, though we did take Christmas day off
> 
> In our big email, the update said all of batch 1 -- save for a few people -- would get their blocks. The last few got delayed because of the plating issue. Like 5 people, I believe. Like we mentioned, when we did the first round of QC, all parts looked good. But when we got the parts into assembly and under the magnifying glass, we discovered some cosmetic issues that needed to be fixed. So then we went into overdrive finding the issues and fixing and resolving.
> 
> The plating for the next large group of midplates is said to be done by the 8th (this friday), we tried to expedite it even more but not everyone wants to work over christmas and weekends. So that group is the last 5 or so of batch 1 and then batch 2.
> 
> I don't have exact estimates for the rest of batch 2, theyre either in plating or being reworked and then going to plating.
> 
> Once I know the plating times, I'll update with more info.
> 
> The good news for others is we've optimized production in a number of ways because of these issues, so the FTW blocks will be available for regular sale roughly mid january. And then we're onto Strix, XC3, FE and Kingpin.


We really appreciate the update, thank you. I personally have a few out of state clients (a streamer and an independent Music Studio) who I convinced to buy your block in batch 2, so thats why I am still following this so closely. I had already made it clear to them that this was a preorder, and that it could take a few months before they saw the product, and that this was to be expected, but a good thing because it means you WILL NOT ship until it is the best Product you can possibly make. Both of these clients take the same approach to their work, so they understood, and ordered, and for the most part have left me alone about it. 

I know there is a lot of complaining that goes on this forum and on twitter, but I think it is important that while a big portion of this complaining is justified, that those of us who have received your blocks let you know how much we appreciate and respect the time it took for you and your team to make these absolutely stunning blocks. 

They really are damn near perfect, with not one blemish on them, and scream high quality. You are a small company, making products that far exceed anything on the market, and there are a bunch of us here who recognize this, and I just wanted to be one who thanked you for putting in your hard work to make this happen. I know in time you will optimize the process, but even for what it is now, for the people you have, in the pandemic environment we are in, you guys are doing some incredible work, and I can't wait for everyone else to see the product they are receiving. Great work!

I wish you and your team a Happy New Year, and can't wait to see what 2021 brings for Optimus!


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Yes, we've been at the factory, though we did take Christmas day off
> 
> In our big email, the update said all of batch 1 -- save for a few people -- would get their blocks. The last few got delayed because of the plating issue. Like 5 people, I believe. Like we mentioned, when we did the first round of QC, all parts looked good. But when we got the parts into assembly and under the magnifying glass, we discovered some cosmetic issues that needed to be fixed. So then we went into overdrive finding the issues and fixing and resolving.
> 
> The plating for the next large group of midplates is said to be done by the 8th (this friday), we tried to expedite it even more but not everyone wants to work over christmas and weekends. So that group is the last 5 or so of batch 1 and then batch 2.
> 
> I don't have exact estimates for the rest of batch 2, theyre either in plating or being reworked and then going to plating.
> 
> Once I know the plating times, I'll update with more info.
> 
> The good news for others is we've optimized production in a number of ways because of these issues, so the FTW blocks will be available for regular sale roughly mid january. And then we're onto Strix, XC3, FE and Kingpin.


Christmas off? 
With a backlog like this? 
Not that it will make any difference if you took the entire month of December and January. 
Don’t know what you guys are doing but it certainly isn’t making parts.

Do you realize how much revenue you are missing out on? Most people won’t wait for months when they can go to watercool or EKWB. Nothing spells disaster more than going to a website with every single item down to hose clamps tagged as “Sold out”. May as well just shut the web sales down and sell on EBay.


----------



## straha20

Edge0fsanity said:


> When you say onto Kingpin, how long? I have an ftw3 and a kingpin with the ftw3 block ordered in batch 2. I really want to keep the kingpin but do not want to wait a long time for a block. I need to decide which card I'll keep soon and that choice is entirely based on block availability. My Kingpin with an optimus block would be f'ing amazing.


As rough as this has been with the timelines, I would not put a whole lot of stock in any of the time estimates. It is entirely possible and maybe even likely that you would have a batch 2 FTW3 block in hand well before a Kingpin block, though that is not suggesting either would be in hand soon with batch 1 finishing at best mid January.


----------



## straha20

JustinThyme said:


> Christmas off?
> With a backlog like this?
> Not that it will make any difference if you took the entire month of December and January.
> Don’t know what you guys are doing but it certainly isn’t making parts.
> 
> Do you realize how much revenue you are missing out on? Most people won’t wait for months when they can go to watercool or EKWB. Nothing spells disaster more than going to a website with every single item down to hose clamps tagged as “Sold out”. May as well just shut the web sales down and sell on EBay.


Not everything is about maximizing profits through volume. A high quality product sold at a premium price can do pretty well, and in that regard, Optimus should be doing just fine.

From what it sounds like, the issues are beyond Optimus' control, which is fair. The issue I think Optimus is facing right now is that they have been providing pretty firm dates when they should not have been. They have been relying too heavily on dates that are outside their control. I understand it is a bad look for a company to reveal too much about their reliance on outside sources for their products, but at the same time, it is a bad look to be putting forward dates that they can't actually assure they meet, and then miss them by a wide margin.


----------



## JustinThyme

acoustic said:


> As stupid as it would be to buy it, that 10980xe at Microcenter is super, super tempting LOL. My store has 2 in stock..


Microcenter needs to have a support group. Every time I’m even remotely close to one I have to stop in and never leave empty handed. Sometimes it’s $100 other times $1000+. Like making a raging alcoholic sit in a massive liquor store but they aren’t allowed to touch anything! Add to that this area has several within an hours drive. Paterson is my usual at around 45 mins from home. But there’s Brooklyn, Flushing and Yonkers. That aren’t any farther away, just a PITA to get to with NYC traffic. Paterson is like up the turnpike, I80 west for a mile then off and north for less than a mile. Good thing there’s not one in Princeton or my a$$ would be in a sling and deep in debt. I try to use CC just to get the points and pay it off right after the purchase but sometimes it got the best of me and I couldn’t tell my daughter her tuition was getting paid and she’s have to move out of the dorm because I dumped a wad at Microcenter.....that just happens to be on the way to her dorm. The taking her out to lunch is really an excuse to stop by Microcenter on the way back LOL. Frys used to be pretty good with having everything but they went down hill. That part that blows is Microcenter doesn’t ship, you have to go to the store. They lowered a price on the 9940X drastically like a week after I bought that. Called them and because I used a debit card I had to drive to the store to get my credit. Should have known better because that $250 just ended up getting spent anyhow. LMAO.
I’ll let you know when I get started and have the first MC Anon group meeting! Talk about kid in a candy store!


----------



## oreonutz

People are treating @Optimus WC Like they are some big EKWB or Alphacool company with 50+ Employees, who are out here to make Millions and take shortcuts to make deadlines. This is not that company. These guys aren't in it for the money, I would think that is obvious. They are in it to give enthusiasts like themselves better products to use. They saw a hole in the market, and they are there to fill it. But they are not this huge company, and they are not willing to take shortcuts to get there. If you can't wait for them to get you a product that meets their standard, and you are ok with going with an EKWB block, than that is probably the route you should go. These guys are literally working as much as they can, and it is totally fine, even with outstanding orders, for them to enjoy a holiday with a family. For those of you who think you own them just because you paid for a $400 block, you clearly have no clue how this works. 

I don't like seeing all these delays either. Pretty sure I ruined my relationship with the company because I told them as much, but that said this is getting out of hand. You will get your product when it is ready. Delays happen. You don't like it, Refund is available to you, and other people with patience will get your product instead. Its fine to voice your discontent with the process, but to insinuate that they should not have a life because you paid hard earn money for a product is a bit much.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> Christmas off?
> With a backlog like this?
> Not that it will make any difference if you took the entire month of December and January.
> Don’t know what you guys are doing but it certainly isn’t making parts.
> 
> Do you realize how much revenue you are missing out on? Most people won’t wait for months when they can go to watercool or EKWB. Nothing spells disaster more than going to a website with every single item down to hose clamps tagged as “Sold out”. May as well just shut the web sales down and sell on EBay.


Are you going to ***** about them taking the time to sleep as well? What’s next no bathroom breaks, no food either? You do realize how entitled you sound and that the word does not revolve around you. If you can’t handle that they took Christmas off then maybe you should stick with EK, oh wait they are delayed as well. Have you accused them of lying yet or demanded they work during the holidays?


----------



## JustinThyme

straha20 said:


> Not everything is about maximizing profits through volume. A high quality product sold at a premium price can do pretty well, and in that regard, Optimus should be doing just fine.
> 
> From what it sounds like, the issues are beyond Optimus' control, which is fair. The issue I think Optimus is facing right now is that they have been providing pretty firm dates when they should not have been. They have been relying too heavily on dates that are outside their control. I understand it is a bad look for a company to reveal too much about their reliance on outside sources for their products, but at the same time, it is a bad look to be putting forward dates that they can't actually assure they meet, and then miss them by a wide margin.


Thats the funniest post in this entire thread! What quantity? It’s been pretty much none. That’s the problem. Quality? You mean like the nickel plating on my Sig V2 block that is guaranteed not to flake off? That state of the art plating is more like state of a fart. They did make it right and sent me a new cold plate but the block is sitting in its box not being used. I tested out the magnitude block that gave me the same performance and the ability to have the inlet on whatever side I want without flipping the block upside down. The top of the Sig V2 is a heavy a$$ chunk of plated brass. That’s not what got me. The micro fins shed like crazy on the cold plate. I was like *** is going on when my flow rate dropped from 10L/min to 5L/min. Then found the clogged filter that had been running clean with a HKIV pro block for a year. Change out to Siggie and a week later I get a nice surprise.


----------



## oreonutz

JustinThyme said:


> Thats the funniest post in this entire thread! What quantity? It’s been pretty much none. That’s the problem. Quality? You mean like the nickel plating on my Sig V2 block that is guaranteed not to flake off? That state of the art plating is more like state of a fart. They did make it right and sent me a new cold plate but the block is sitting in its box not being used. I tested out the magnitude block that gave me the same performance and the ability to have the inlet on whatever side I want without flipping the block upside down. The top of the Sig V2 is a heavy a$$ chunk of plated brass. That’s not what got me. The micro fins shed like crazy on the cold plate. I was like *** is going on when my flow rate dropped from 10L/min to 5L/min. Then found the clogged filter that had been running clean with a HKIV pro block for a year. Change out to Siggie and a week later I get a nice surprise.
> 
> View attachment 2472411
> View attachment 2472413


Hey man, I like your posts, I am not one who likes to pick fights with other members, especially those members whose posts I normally enjoy. And especially to defend a company. But, that said, there is no possible way this is user error? There is no possible way parts in your loop needed a good clean? This is definitely 100% without a shadow of a doubt Optimus' fault?

There is no way that it could be that the Microfins are just so closely spaced, that particles already in your loop cling to them? Thats not a possibility?


----------



## oreonutz

straha20 said:


> Not everything is about maximizing profits through volume. A high quality product sold at a premium price can do pretty well, and in that regard, Optimus should be doing just fine.
> 
> From what it sounds like, the issues are beyond Optimus' control, which is fair. The issue I think Optimus is facing right now is that they have been providing pretty firm dates when they should not have been. They have been relying too heavily on dates that are outside their control. I understand it is a bad look for a company to reveal too much about their reliance on outside sources for their products, but at the same time, it is a bad look to be putting forward dates that they can't actually assure they meet, and then miss them by a wide margin.


Too some, or maybe one, this is the funniest post in this thread. To me, I 100 Percent agree with this sentiment. You hit the nail on the head, with both your analysis, and your conclusion. I am not so sure the company agrees with us, but I think its hard to argue that if hard dates were not given, and instead rough time estimates, with no dates mentioned, just rough month timelines until the products are inhand and QC'd, where then all control about the date to ship are within the hand of the company and no contractors, then I think a lot of this fuss would be non existent. Of course than you might not get as many orders to begin with, but I think its worth losing out on a few orders of impatient people, and get all the good word of mouth, vs what is going on right now. Obviously thats my opinion though...


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Are you going to *** about them taking the time to sleep as well? What’s next no bathroom breaks, no food either? You do realize how entitled you sound and that the word does not revolve around you. If you can’t handle that they took Christmas off then maybe you should stick with EK, oh wait they are delayed as well. Have you accused them of lying yet or demanded they work during the holidays?


Dude, you need a stiff shot of ever clear. 
no the word doesn’t revolve around anyone.
I was joking about Christmas. Relax and take another stuff shot of ever clear or take a Valium or a Xanax.
The industry I work in there are no such things as holidays. Some poor bass turd has to be on call 24x7x365. When Bank of America calls at 2AM on Christmas Eve someone has to be there is 4 hours so don’t give me a line of crap about entitlement. I’m off for 6 weeks straight ATM but that’s after working 7 days a week holidays an all from Memorial Day right up through December 1 sometimes doing marathons of 40 hours straight over a weekend. So go cry to someone who cares because it sure isn’t me!
My preference is actually Heat Killer products. EK has slipped with one exception, the Magnitude. I got it overnighted from the factory before they went up for sale and it cost me precisely squat.


----------



## Shawnb99

Heatkiller who has given next to no info on their new blocks. Have you complained in their thread about the delays as well?
Would you prefer the no info approach like them? I’m sure Optimus can go that route


----------



## JustinThyme

oreonutz said:


> Hey man, I like your posts, I am not one who likes to pick fights with other members, especially those members whose posts I normally enjoy. And especially to defend a company. But, that said, there is no possible way this is user error? There is no possible way parts in your loop needed a good clean? This is definitely 100% without a shadow of a doubt Optimus' fault?
> 
> There is no way that it could be that the Microfins are just so closely spaced, that particles already in your loop cling to them? Thats not a possibility?


Nope, entirely Optimus. I’m not arguing the reason why. My filter was empty, my loop was clean and all I did was put in the Siggie and got this result. They admitted to an issue that had been identified with the plating. Like I said, what I will give them is they made it right and sent a new cold plate.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> Nope, entirely Optimus. I’m not arguing the reason why. My filter was empty, my loop was clean and all I did was put in the Siggie and got this result. They admitted to an issue that had been identified with the plating. Like I said, what I will give them is they made it right and sent a new cold plate.


What was the issue? A bad batch of coating if I remember correctly that they owned up to right away and sent out a replacement ASAP. That happens, I’d be more concerned if there was multiple reports of issues not an isolated incident or two and when they start denying it like EK or blame it on everything else


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Heatkiller who has given next to no info on their new blocks. Have you complained in their thread about the delays as well?
> Would you prefer the no info approach like them? I’m sure Optimus can go that route


Oh I complained plenty when there was a delay on releasing blocks for my cards from anyone. BUT and a HUGE BUT, once they started production they have been readily available ever since. If I’d waited for Optimus I’d still be waiting over a year later.


----------



## oreonutz

JustinThyme said:


> Dude, you need a stiff shot of ever clear.
> no the word doesn’t revolve around anyone.
> I was joking about Christmas. Relax and take another stuff shot of ever clear or take a Valium or a Xanax.
> The industry I work in there are no such things as holidays. Some poor bass turd has to be on call 24x7x365. When Bank of America calls at 2AM on Christmas Eve someone has to be there is 4 hours so don’t give me a line of crap about entitlement. I’m off for 6 weeks straight ATM but that’s after working 7 days a week holidays an all from Memorial Day right up through December 1 sometimes doing marathons of 40 hours straight over a weekend. So go cry to someone who cares because it sure isn’t me!
> My preference is actually Heat Killer products. EK has slipped with one exception, the Magnitude. I got it overnighted from the factory before they went up for sale and it cost me precisely squat.


LOL...

I also know what its like being on 24/7 call, I live that life. But just because we do, doesn't mean everyone has too.

A shot of everclear would be nice. I would take your advice for Shawn if I wasn't 9 years sober. **** me, can't believe I just hit that benchmark. I definitely prefer it this way, but sometimes I miss the days of being able to not Give a F**k and knock back a few shots before hitting the clubs. Those were the days man...

Now back to reality. That is awesome you got a free block from EK. I also got a free block from a few companies, I don't understand what the point to that was. Are you saying all companies should ship us free blocks??? Not sure what that flex was about.

Again, I like your posts usually, you usually are providing a lot of quality analysis. Not sure what is going on here. What are we all fighting about again?


----------



## oreonutz

JustinThyme said:


> Nope, entirely Optimus. I’m not arguing the reason why. My filter was empty, my loop was clean and all I did was put in the Siggie and got this result. They admitted to an issue that had been identified with the plating. Like I said, what I will give them is they made it right and sent a new cold plate.


I remember this. My bad. I am glad they rectified it though, and quickly if I remember correctly.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> What was the issue? A bad batch of coating if I remember correctly that they owned up to right away and sent out a replacement ASAP. That happens, I’d be more concerned if there was multiple reports of issues not an isolated incident or two and when they start denying it like EK or blame it on everything else


I don’t know what the exact issue was but they said that it was not isolated and it was the plating process so it was blaming it on someone else. That doesn’t matter, it’s your product, it’s on you and they did send a new cold plate.


----------



## oreonutz

Damnit, speaking of that on call life, just got a damn call when I was supposed to take the day off. Be back later. Have fun fighting without me, lol!


----------



## JustinThyme

oreonutz said:


> LOL...
> 
> I also know what its like being on 24/7 call, I live that life. But just because we do, doesn't mean everyone has too.
> 
> A shot of everclear would be nice. I would take your advice for Shawn if I wasn't 9 years sober. **** me, can't believe I just hit that benchmark. I definitely prefer it this way, but sometimes I miss the days of being able to not Give a F**k and knock back a few shots before hitting the clubs. Those were the days man...
> 
> Now back to reality. That is awesome you got a free block from EK. I also got a free block from a few companies, I don't understand what the point to that was. Are you saying all companies should ship us free blocks??? Not sure what that flex was about.
> 
> Again, I like your posts usually, you usually are providing a lot of quality analysis. Not sure what is going on here. What are we all fighting about again?


I don’t fight, I’m too old for that.
I think the disagreement is all because neither of us drink. Congrats on the 9 years! I never had a problem but gave up on it when 3 beers started giving me a hangover for a week. I have one or two here and there but I’d say maybe 8–10 a year tops and it’s generally 18 YO scotch with a nice stogie. I still have half a bottle left over after two years.
It’s all good.
The free block from EK they contacted me here after the Optimus testing because they don’t have an HEDT and techpowerup gave them a lame lead over Optimus saying 0.10C. Using a 9900K and Aida6 CPU only stress test that won’t even warm it up good. I called BS on that. Well within margin of error. They sent me a free block to post up the data on HEDT and in the end, they are comparable blocks. I couldn’t call a winner as they gave me the same results. The only place EK actually took a lead was when I was running the fans just above stall on a single D5 just above stall pumping like 1.5LPM. It’s much less restrictive. Didn’t make a hill of beans because at that point both of them were too hot. I don’t run like that as I pump balls to the walls with 3 D5s in serial at 10L/min. They both consistently repeated 80C hottest core with my rig operating in auto and with fixed speeds. Both good blocks. EKs older stuff is well, Old and outdated. I think even Bykski is kicking their butts on those and their GPU blocks may perform OK but I find them ugly as runny crap from a gooses a$$. Here’s my rig Siggie installed. Swapped out MOBO to R6EE as I borked the pins in my R6E going back and forth with the two blocks and in the end finished up with the MOBO on a box top.


----------



## JGH_pc

So batch 2 has gone from mid late november to mid December to just after xmas and now till mid January at the earliest. We still don't know if this next batch of mid plates will have QC issues and it's for sure not enough to complete all of batch 2. The remaining batch 2ers are still w/o any ETA.

@Optimus_wc you should really go on Twitter and post the new ETAs. Many users there are in dire need of update.

Batch 1 / First Part of batch 2 - shipping week of 1/11

Remaining Batch 2 - shipping week of 11/18 earliest.

You're going to get flak for it, but it's deserved.


----------



## JGH_pc

oreonutz said:


> LOL...
> 
> I also know what its like being on 24/7 call, I live that life. But just because we do, doesn't mean everyone has too.
> 
> A shot of everclear would be nice. I would take your advice for Shawn if I wasn't 9 years sober. **** me, can't believe I just hit that benchmark. I definitely prefer it this way, but sometimes I miss the days of being able to not Give a F**k and knock back a few shots before hitting the clubs. Those were the days man...
> 
> Now back to reality. That is awesome you got a free block from EK. I also got a free block from a few companies, I don't understand what the point to that was. Are you saying all companies should ship us free blocks??? Not sure what that flex was about.
> 
> Again, I like your posts usually, you usually are providing a lot of quality analysis. Not sure what is going on here. What are we all fighting about again?


Congrats, 32 months here.

I turned my drinking energy and drinking cash into PC building. Funny how when we drop the booze we have so much tome AND MONEY for hobbies, isn't it?


----------



## JustinThyme

oreonutz said:


> Damnit, speaking of that on call life, just got a damn call when I was supposed to take the day off. Be back later. Have fun fighting without me, lol!


LOL, but not really. I get on call once every 6 week but honestly, that’s my slack week. I don’t do scheduled work when on call. Don’t get me wrong, sometimes it’s the week from hell with a 4 hour ride to make at 2 AM like every day but the rest of the time the only difference is more hours worked and I know when and where a good bit in advance. More than 48 hours out. My weekends are booked months in advance. If it wasn’t for 6 weeks PTO a year I’d surely blow a gasket. I usually take the entire month of July but didn’t happen this year. Just too much going on. Regional director was like oh take 2 days, pffft I’ve already worked 60 hours in 5 days may as well make it 80+.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I got a Magnitude for free as well. Can I have a cookie?


----------



## HyperC

This has been the BEST thread ever to come read for the LAWLS and while I do feel bad for everyone that is waiting which sucks , I honestly think a couple people from this thread should be on Optimus's payroll for all the replies because they have much better customer service then the company itself


----------



## Shawnb99

I wouldn’t turn down a free block 😉


----------



## JustinThyme

LiquidHaus said:


> I got a Magnitude for free as well. Can I have a cookie?


You can have two cookies and a baby Ruth.


----------



## oreonutz

JustinThyme said:


> I don’t fight, I’m too old for that.
> I think the disagreement is all because neither of us drink. Congrats on the 9 years! I never had a problem but gave up on it when 3 beers started giving me a hangover for a week. I have one or two here and there but I’d say maybe 8–10 a year tops and it’s generally 18 YO scotch with a nice stogie. I still have half a bottle left over after two years.
> It’s all good.
> The free block from EK they contacted me here after the Optimus testing because they don’t have an HEDT and techpowerup gave them a lame lead over Optimus saying 0.10C. Using a 9900K and Aida6 CPU only stress test that won’t even warm it up good. I called BS on that. Well within margin of error. They sent me a free block to post up the data on HEDT and in the end, they are comparable blocks. I couldn’t call a winner as they gave me the same results. The only place EK actually took a lead was when I was running the fans just above stall on a single D5 just above stall pumping like 1.5LPM. It’s much less restrictive. Didn’t make a hill of beans because at that point both of them were too hot. I don’t run like that as I pump balls to the walls with 3 D5s in serial at 10L/min. They both consistently repeated 80C hottest core with my rig operating in auto and with fixed speeds. Both good blocks. EKs older stuff is well, Old and outdated. I think even Bykski is kicking their butts on those and their GPU blocks may perform OK but I find them ugly as runny crap from a gooses a$$. Here’s my rig Siggie installed. Swapped out MOBO to R6EE as I borked the pins in my R6E going back and forth with the two blocks and in the end finished up with the MOBO on a box top.
> View attachment 2472425



Fricking Nice Rig man! And Congrats to you on your general Sobriety. I would love to not have a problem.

Unfortunately I have an addictive personalilty. Always have. I am the product of 2 alcoholics and drug abusers, so I guess its in the genes. Either way, I finally recognized I had a problem and alchohol was the last thing (other than cigarettes) that I had to give up. I had one last crazy party New years 2012, and yes I just realized when talking to my friend that this actually makes me 8 years sober not 9, I am stupid, I would probably know that if I actually still went to meetings, but I stopped that in 2014 when I realized they weren't for me. Anyways, 8 years sober starting this year, it will be 9 years Sober when I reach New Years day 2022, either way, for me its a milestone. Definitely way more productive this way. And I finally quit Cigarettes back on April 1st of 2019, so that will be 2 years without Nicotine this April, my lungs, and those of my family, thank me, lol.

Yeah, these are damn good blocks man. The Magnitude is a good block too, but personally I prefer the Look of the Optimus, although that is obviously subjective. 

Anyways, Nice Rig brother, my main workstation looks like ****, even with the kick ass hardware in it, thats why I never post it, most people would laugh at it. But she works for me. I am actually about to redo it. I am still sitting in a Case from 2012, this Case has been with me since my Drinking days actually, I can still see feel the slight stickyness on the Mobo Tray whenever I switch out Mobo's, because when I was building I spilled my Vodka and OJ I was drinking at the time all over the damn case after just opening it, lol. I have cleaned it I don't know how many times, but yet there is still just a hint of residue left to it that dust sticks to like tape.

Anyway, I have kept it because I can't find a damn case on the market at a reasonable price range that has all the check boxes I need, which among other things is 3x 5.25" bays. Not for actual Disc Drives, but I use them for my Hot Swap Drives because I do a lot of Data Recovery, and then I have an Aquaero 6 XT. But I think I have finally convinced myself to just use another workstation I recently built to as my secondary Recovery drive so I don't tie up my main Rig when I need another system to pop Client drives into, So that gets rid of 2x 5.25" bays, and then I just have the Aquaero, which I can either find a Creative place to incorporate it, or just move to the LT, haven't decided yet. So I think I am going to move over to a Thermaltake Core P5 and just Mod it a bit to make it work for all my other uses. I am not terribly in love with the case, but it definitely would look better, and I already use a P3 for my Test Bench and Really like the open layout, it makes it easy to work on, so I am thinking I will just get the bigger Brother For my main Workstation, and it might finally be presentable if I actually work on my Cable Management this time. I would definitely Prefer the Thermaltake Core P7 because of the extra Radiator Support, I wouldn't have to Setup an External Cooling Station any more, but I can never find them for a reasonable price, people always want $500+ for them, and its just not worth that asking for me, so... P5 I think it is going to be...

Anyways, Jesus, I have just written way too much again. I have been getting better at that, and then this happens... I will shut up now.


----------



## oreonutz

LiquidHaus said:


> I got a Magnitude for free as well. Can I have a cookie?


You know what @LiquidHaus I think you have earned at least 3 Cookies. Come to vegas, and I got you! My Sister Makes the best Chocolate Chip Cookies, will get her to make a batch for you next time you are in town!


----------



## JGH_pc

Is the TechN block comparable to Optimus's AM4 block? Thinking of grabbing that and an x570 tomahawk while I wait for my chance to get a 5800x or 5900x


----------



## oreonutz

JustinThyme said:


> LOL, but not really. I get on call once every 6 week but honestly, that’s my slack week. I don’t do scheduled work when on call. Don’t get me wrong, sometimes it’s the week from hell with a 4 hour ride to make at 2 AM like every day but the rest of the time the only difference is more hours worked and I know when and where a good bit in advance. More than 48 hours out. My weekends are booked months in advance. If it wasn’t for 6 weeks PTO a year I’d surely blow a gasket. I usually take the entire month of July but didn’t happen this year. Just too much going on. Regional director was like oh take 2 days, pffft I’ve already worked 60 hours in 5 days may as well make it 80+.


Lol. I know the sentiment. Hate working for corps, but I love the pay... Right now, for the past 5 years now (Since late 2014) I went into business for myself, with a partner, running an IT Firm. So I have the luxury of taking days off when I need them, and making my own hours for the most part. The Issue is, I tend not too. Bit of a Work aholic. But I love it. When I feel Burnt out I just take a few days off, and get one of my guys to cover me. But yeah, I have worked IT for Banks, Studios, and Sales, and the only thing I like about that work is the consistent pay. I loved the challenging stuff, but that was rare. I still get a lot of routine stuff here, but at least its for my own business, so its not as bad. And most of that stuff I hand out to our hourly guys anyway, so it works out.


----------



## oreonutz

JGH_pc said:


> Is the TechN block comparable to Optimus's AM4 block? Thinking of grabbing that and an x570 tomahawk while I wait for my chance to get a 5800x or 5900x


In my personal opinion the materials used aren't anywhere near as good. But in performance it does well, looks are subjective, but I also find it lacking there. I just got one in the lab because I had a client ask about it, needed to test it, and while it performed good, I still prefer my Optimus, in my opinion its much higher quality. But don't take my word for it at all, I am a little biased, make sure others agree with me.


----------



## straha20

JGH_pc said:


> So batch 2 has gone from mid late november to mid December to just after xmas and now till mid January at the earliest. We still don't know if this next batch of mid plates will have QC issues and it's for sure not enough to complete all of batch 2. The remaining batch 2ers are still w/o any ETA.
> 
> @Optimus_wc you should really go on Twitter and post the new ETAs. Many users there are in dire need of update.
> 
> *Batch 1 / First Part of batch 2 - shipping week of 1/11*
> 
> Remaining Batch 2 - shipping week of 11/18 earliest.
> 
> You're going to get flak for it, but it's deserved.


That is likely really stretching it. They said they wouldn't even have the parts back from plating until the 8th, and I would not place any confidence in that date, nor a significant amount of them passing QC. If there is any update at all, I would expect it to be sometime during the week of 1/11 providing a new, further out eta.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> BH Photo has been repeatedly screwing me over with my 5950X and 5900X order. Was supposed to get them at the beginning of December. Now it'll be sometime during Q1...?
> 
> My 3950X is still going super strong. 4.5ghz all core. Honestly have zero complaints with it. But gaming with the 5600X and doing some comparison's... the 5000 series does indeed make a difference with the gaming aspect of things.


I get you but it should be out soon. I spoke with them and its mid jan. I saw some people at 1:30est orders get fulfilled.

In Canada, lot of us stuck with our orders at b&h because its cheaper than retail here (right now is hundred cad cheaper) and i rather fight for us stock than canadian restocks. None of the retailers are close to msrp except Mike’s computers.

I lost out on exchange rate part 1.32 vs 1.28 now but you never know currency battles, you win and lose some.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Yes, we've been at the factory, though we did take Christmas day off
> 
> In our big email, the update said all of batch 1 -- save for a few people -- would get their blocks. The last few got delayed because of the plating issue. Like 5 people, I believe. Like we mentioned, when we did the first round of QC, all parts looked good. But when we got the parts into assembly and under the magnifying glass, we discovered some cosmetic issues that needed to be fixed. So then we went into overdrive finding the issues and fixing and resolving.
> 
> The plating for the next large group of midplates is said to be done by the 8th (this friday), we tried to expedite it even more but not everyone wants to work over christmas and weekends. So that group is the last 5 or so of batch 1 and then batch 2.
> 
> I don't have exact estimates for the rest of batch 2, theyre either in plating or being reworked and then going to plating.
> 
> Once I know the plating times, I'll update with more info.
> 
> The good news for others is we've optimized production in a number of ways because of these issues, so the FTW blocks will be available for regular sale roughly mid january. And then we're onto Strix, XC3, FE and Kingpin.


Eagerly await it


----------



## Section31

HyperC said:


> This has been the BEST thread ever to come read for the LAWLS and while I do feel bad for everyone that is waiting which sucks , I honestly think a couple people from this thread should be on Optimus's payroll for all the replies because they have much better customer service then the company itself


Eh This is either worst thread in whole watercooling section (i have no intention of this happening) or some call it the only interesting thread here since the rest of the pages are quiet.

Last one was heatkiller but no more Jakob means no more leaks/etc. I have to email them now to get any information now.

Sorry no response lol. I was doing major maintenance work on the company server, those never run smooth. That and i completely lost my mind as how one person managed to get the following from one person.

X570 Asus Server Board (it had issues) + 3950x (for free) then sold that board and bought an x570 unify and got an free 5950x (sold off 3950x at discount) and now wants to jump to threadripper lol. That and he got 2080ti cheap that he resold and got an free 3080xc which was silicon lottery loser and sold it to get an non-defective 3060ti-3080.


----------



## jvillaveces

LiquidHaus said:


> Yessir! That is the plan! Will most likely will be a DIY product, in regards to wiring it up. But the shroud itself will be ready to go.


count me in!


----------



## evilbob2200

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Yes, we've been at the factory, though we did take Christmas day off
> 
> In our big email, the update said all of batch 1 -- save for a few people -- would get their blocks. The last few got delayed because of the plating issue. Like 5 people, I believe. Like we mentioned, when we did the first round of QC, all parts looked good. But when we got the parts into assembly and under the magnifying glass, we discovered some cosmetic issues that needed to be fixed. So then we went into overdrive finding the issues and fixing and resolving.
> 
> The plating for the next large group of midplates is said to be done by the 8th (this friday), we tried to expedite it even more but not everyone wants to work over christmas and weekends. So that group is the last 5 or so of batch 1 and then batch 2.
> 
> I don't have exact estimates for the rest of batch 2, theyre either in plating or being reworked and then going to plating.
> 
> Once I know the plating times, I'll update with more info.
> 
> The good news for others is we've optimized production in a number of ways because of these issues, so the FTW blocks will be available for regular sale roughly mid january. And then we're onto Strix, XC3, FE and Kingpin.


what about the batch two people like me that wanted raw copper? I was even told through email it was noted on my order and i would get raw copper.


----------



## straha20

evilbob2200 said:


> what about the batch two people like me that wanted raw copper? I was even told through email it was noted on my order and i would get raw copper.


Several of us in batch one requested copper when we were led to believe it would get us our blocks faster, only to have that time frame walked back. I don't recall if anyone who actually requested it got it.


----------



## evilbob2200

straha20 said:


> Several of us in batch one requested copper when we were led to believe it would get us our blocks faster, only to have that time frame walked back. I don't recall if anyone who actually requested it got it.


i simply dont want nickel lol


----------



## FU#OPMadeUSA

JGH_pc said:


> Lmao. It's crazy that people are defending these guys. It's not crazy that people are disgruntled after they took $400 from us and then lied incessantly for months about delivery dates. Why do you even care? Optimus is to blame, not the people who got taken for a ride.
> 
> Get off your damn "holier than thou" high horse and stop throwing shade at people.


----------



## JGH_pc

evilbob2200 said:


> i simply dont want nickel lol


Why be so entitled about Copper or Nickel? You get whatever good lord Optimus is willing to bless you with and you be thankful!


----------



## Mroberts95

JGH_pc said:


> Why be so entitled about Copper or Nickel? You get whatever good lord Optimus is willing to bless you with and you be thankful!


Because people paid $400+ for a gpu block. If they want copper then that’s what they want. It shouldn’t be what Optimus wants to do. If you offer a product you don’t send something else 😂


----------



## JGH_pc

Mroberts95 said:


> Because people paid $400+ for a gpu block. If they want copper then that’s what they want. It shouldn’t be what Optimus wants to do. If you offer a product you don’t send something else 😂


Wow so entitled. You expect them to make copper and nickel versions just because that's what YOU want (and what they offered to do)? What's next burgers at McDonald's with no onions?

But seriously


----------



## evilbob2200

JGH_pc said:


> Why be so entitled about Copper or Nickel? You get whatever good lord Optimus is willing to bless you with and you be thankful!


k


----------



## originxt

The amount of whining is kind of painful at this point, especially the attempt at edgy sarcasm. We get it, you are either:

1. Angry the blocks are delayed.
2. Ordered a block but canceled due to delays.
3. Ordered a block, canceled, ordered a different block, and can't get over the fact the Optimus blocks are still delayed.

Say your piece and move on. No one here cares that you ordered (block from a different company.) List benchmarks of comparison to your air cooler or current benchmarks with those who have received their blocks, talk about water cooling in general, or post actually useful feedback for Optimus to work from.

If you canceled the block and don't want anything to do with Optimus, why keep posting here? Just seems like you want to stir drama for the sake of doing so. It's like people's love for outrage culture keeps expanding to even more avenues lol.


----------



## JGH_pc

originxt said:


> The amount of whining is kind of painful at this point, especially the attempt at edgy sarcasm. We get it, you are either:
> 
> 1. Angry the blocks are delayed.
> 2. Ordered a block but canceled due to delays.
> 3. Ordered a block, canceled, ordered a different block, and can't get over the fact the Optimus blocks are still delayed.
> 
> Say your piece and move on. No one here cares that you ordered (block from a different company.) List benchmarks of comparison to your air cooler or current benchmarks with those who have received their blocks, talk about water cooling in general, or post actually useful feedback for Optimus to work from.
> 
> If you canceled the block and don't want anything to do with Optimus, why keep posting here? Just seems like you want to stir drama for the sake of doing so. It's like people's love for outrage culture keeps expanding to even more avenues lol.


Ok, I'll stop. Still just a bit salty and felt like some here have been taking shots at people who are rightfully annoyed.

Thing about Optimus is that the product is pretty damn compelling. I actually do want them to succeed. Part of that, will be improving their production capabilities and supply chain so that they can improve on their timeframes and ETAs.

I want to see them build a track record, that is better than what they've done so far. If they show improvement I might just pick up an AM5 or LGA1700 block from them down the line.

I will try to post pics and some test results of my block when I get it set up and play with it over the next few days so that I can contribute something real here.


----------



## Section31

There’s always an solution to appease some of you, do what ekwb does with some of the top modders, sign sponsorship deals with you lol.


----------



## oreonutz

JGH_pc said:


> Congrats, 32 months here.
> 
> I turned my drinking energy and drinking cash into PC building. Funny how when we drop the booze we have so much tome AND MONEY for hobbies, isn't it?


Just saw this. 100 Percent agree! It wasn't until after I quit Drinking, Drugging, and Smoking, that I realized exactly how much disposable income I actually had, lol. Appreciate the words, also congrats to you! Thats a milestone, you got this!


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> Just saw this. 100 Percent agree! It wasn't until after I quit Drinking, Drugging, and Smoking, that I realized exactly how much disposable income I actually had, lol. Appreciate the words, also congrats to you! Thats a milestone, you got this!


I don't do any of that but honestly speaking, we all like to spend money just where we spend it is the question. I have so many wants/likes and i got to choice what to put an reasonable portion of income into.


----------



## zervun

JGH_pc said:


> Congrats, 32 months here. I turned my drinking energy and drinking cash into PC building. Funny how when we drop the booze we have so much tome AND MONEY for hobbies, isn't it?





oreonutz said:


> Just saw this. 100 Percent agree! It wasn't until after I quit Drinking, Drugging, and Smoking, that I realized exactly how much disposable income I actually had, lol. Appreciate the words, also congrats to you! Thats a milestone, you got this!


Gratz! 36 months here almost to the day. No regrets. Found better ways to cope with stress. Being an exec in the infosec field stress wise is not easy. Been lifting weights non-stop for 3 years now and playing with my computer toys.


----------



## sakete

zervun said:


> Gratz! 36 months here almost to the day. No regrets. Found better ways to cope with stress. Being an exec in the infosec field stress wise is not easy. *Been lifting weights non-stop for 3 years* now and playing with my computer toys.


You must be exhausted.


----------



## dr/owned

Are they regularly shipping out reservoirs? I didn't see any notices saying "hey this will take 2 weeks to ship" but then again it's Optimus where they seem pretty well known for being delayed. I don't want to wait forever to replace a broken res when I can just order a Koolance one that gets to be by the end of the week.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, man this thread gets off track  Can't read through everything, but...

COPPER: So nickel is the go-to right now because it's actually much more work to get a copper midplate that looks perfect than nickel (and even nickel has obviously had a lot of challenges). It has to do with how fast copper will oxidize or change color, especially when machining chemicals are present. Our GPU blocks take waaaaaay longer to make than our other blocks (they're something like 7lbs at start, end up at 2.5lbs), so there is far more time exposed to chemicals and air than the other blocks, thus making it trickier to do copper. So without revisiting the entire history of FTW production, nickel blocks are the mass produced ones right now, copper will be available in the future, but copper will take more time because of the aesthetic issues. 

RESERVOIRS: We are regularly shipping out reservoirs, but not exactly sure, everything we're doing now is under a few weeks for shipping. We're moving towards only in-stock items, but it's taking a little while to get there.


----------



## zervun

sakete said:


> You must be exhausted.


Hah - by non-stop meant doing a PPLPPLR weekly cycle. About ~1 hour a day. Some weeks less but even in my worst weeks hit at least 3 times a week - I consider that fairly non-stop. Have had a couple weekly breaks due to injuries - like falling down the stairs and I dropped a toilet I was replacing on my foot. I don't count the "idiot" breaks in the grand scheme of things - I just try and be as consistent as possible without overdoing it. I'm in my 40s so some times more rest is needed. I don't like going for more than 2 days rest.


----------



## Shawnb99

I’m very interested to see how the copper blocks will look after 6 months or a year, will they still look as amazing or will they oxidize and look ugly?


----------



## zervun

Shawnb99 said:


> I’m very interested to see how the copper blocks will look after 6 months or a year, will they still look as amazing or will they oxidize and look ugly?


I had an old copper block from years ago I ran across from dangerden (yes that old - maybe 10 years old?) about a year ago. Definitely had darkened all over, and a bit but uglier in the water channels but I wouldn't consider it ugly. As with any copper stuff like pans you can polish it out very easy. Would rather not deal with any of that and go nickle though.


----------



## Shawnb99

zervun said:


> I had an old copper block from years ago I ran across from dangerden (yes that old - maybe 10 years old?) about a year ago. Definitely had darkened all over, and a bit but uglier in the water channels but I wouldn't consider it ugly. As with any copper stuff like pans you can polish it out very easy.


That’s good to know. I’m going to try and go vertical with my Gpu so it’ll stand out more if it gets ugly looking. I knew you could polish it easy enough, just be a pain to do.
@Optimus WC hurry up with the KPE block! Also I assume the Sig block will work with a 11900?


----------



## originxt

Shawnb99 said:


> That’s good to know. I’m going to try and go vertical with my Gpu so it’ll stand out more if it gets ugly looking. I knew you could polish it easy enough, just be a pain to do.
> @Optimus WC hurry up with the KPE block! Also I assume the Sig block will work with a 11900?


It's still lga115x/1200 right? I'm assuming it does then. Hopefully Intel brings something spicy in the future. While I like my current cpu, I'd like something that doesn't heat my room up too much in the summer time XD.


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, man this thread gets off track  Can't read through everything, but...
> 
> COPPER: So nickel is the go-to right now because it's actually much more work to get a copper midplate that looks perfect than nickel (and even nickel has obviously had a lot of challenges). It has to do with how fast copper will oxidize or change color, especially when machining chemicals are present. Our GPU blocks take waaaaaay longer to make than our other blocks (they're something like 7lbs at start, end up at 2.5lbs), so there is far more time exposed to chemicals and air than the other blocks, thus making it trickier to do copper. So without revisiting the entire history of FTW production, nickel blocks are the mass produced ones right now, copper will be available in the future, but copper will take more time because of the aesthetic issues.
> 
> RESERVOIRS: We are regularly shipping out reservoirs, but not exactly sure, everything we're doing now is under a few weeks for shipping. We're moving towards only in-stock items, but it's taking a little while to get there.


Well, it sounds like copper means waiting even longer. I had sent you an email a couple weeks ago I think, but just switch my block to nickel if that means I'll have it earlier (and in that case I also don't need a copper AM4 coldplate anymore).


----------



## gengar

Optimus WC said:


> RESERVOIRS: We are regularly shipping out reservoirs, but not exactly sure, everything we're doing now is under a few weeks for shipping. We're moving towards only in-stock items, but it's taking a little while to get there.


This statement is really confusing - what is keeping you from identifying which items are in-stock and ready to ship on your store?


----------



## sakete

zervun said:


> Hah - by non-stop meant doing a PPLPPLR weekly cycle. About ~1 hour a day. Some weeks less but even in my worst weeks hit at least 3 times a week - I consider that fairly non-stop. Have had a couple weekly breaks due to injuries - like falling down the stairs and I dropped a toilet I was replacing on my foot. I don't count the "idiot" breaks in the grand scheme of things - I just try and be as consistent as possible without overdoing it. I'm in my 40s so some times more rest is needed. I don't like going for more than 2 days rest.


Yeah, I run 2-3 miles about 3 times a week first thing in the morning (when there's no snow on the ground, I live in CO), and otherwise do bodyweight exercises everyday for about 15-30 mins depending on if it was a running day or not. So I get in about half an hour of exercise every morning, which is honestly all my body needs.

I used to go the gym in the past, but I honestly just hated it everytime. And then I did kickboxing/muay thai for a few years, but I just got too old to keep up with the young ones (in my late 30s now). My current routine is great and helps me keep up with my 2yr old


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> That’s good to know. I’m going to try and go vertical with my Gpu so it’ll stand out more if it gets ugly looking. I knew you could polish it easy enough, just be a pain to do.
> @Optimus WC hurry up with the KPE block! Also I assume the Sig block will work with a 11900?


My copper block had the same issue as zersun. Definately darkened up though i haven't polished it.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, man this thread gets off track  Can't read through everything, but...
> 
> COPPER: So nickel is the go-to right now because it's actually much more work to get a copper midplate that looks perfect than nickel (and even nickel has obviously had a lot of challenges). It has to do with how fast copper will oxidize or change color, especially when machining chemicals are present. Our GPU blocks take waaaaaay longer to make than our other blocks (they're something like 7lbs at start, end up at 2.5lbs), so there is far more time exposed to chemicals and air than the other blocks, thus making it trickier to do copper. So without revisiting the entire history of FTW production, nickel blocks are the mass produced ones right now, copper will be available in the future, but copper will take more time because of the aesthetic issues.
> 
> RESERVOIRS: We are regularly shipping out reservoirs, but not exactly sure, everything we're doing now is under a few weeks for shipping. We're moving towards only in-stock items, but it's taking a little while to get there.


No need to follow the thread, just post updates, new products you are working on (don't have to promise dates,etc). Thats we love to hear. If you come out with new products, i always an interested in trying them out. Call the offtopic stuff what keeps this thread going compared to the other ones.


----------



## zervun

sakete said:


> Yeah, I run 2-3 miles about 3 times a week first thing in the morning (when there's no snow on the ground, I live in CO), and otherwise do bodyweight exercises everyday for about 15-30 mins depending on if it was a running day or not. So I get in about half an hour of exercise every morning, which is honestly all my body needs.
> 
> I used to go the gym in the past, but I honestly just hated it everytime. And then I did kickboxing/muay thai for a few years, but I just got too old to keep up with the young ones (in my late 30s now). My current routine is great and helps me keep up with my 2yr old


Awesome - doesn't really matter how you slice it - just being healthy. I personally can't stand travelling to a gym. Been there done that and was a gym rat in my earlier days and did a bunch of traditional Karate. Have my own space in my house aka personal gym wife and I built, which with Covid has been great with working from home. If only Rogue can get in-stock with weights I'll be getting a 6 post rack. Really doesn't matter how you tackle it as long as you keep exercising and doing your thing. Absolutely nothing wrong with body weight excersises.

Rogue is kinda like Optimus =) Can't really get their **** but it's the best in the market but definitely worth the wait.


----------



## zervun

Shawnb99 said:


> That’s good to know. I’m going to try and go vertical with my Gpu so it’ll stand out more if it gets ugly looking. I knew you could polish it easy enough, just be a pain to do.
> @Optimus WC hurry up with the KPE block! Also I assume the Sig block will work with a 11900?


Of note I didn't really notice at the time with full copper. Back in the day that was all that was available and people were milling their own with a drill press which was ghetto fabulous at best. Maybe we swapped stuff so quick that we never noticed the copper degradation. I'd guess I've had about a dozen copper blocks over the years, CPU and bridge ones and have never seen some big copper corrosion. Never kept them long enough to matter as back in the day it was one use for every mobo you had other than the one that I mentioned.

I've optioned to do copper to get it quicker (after an original nickel order) but I ended getting nickel on the threadripper block. Need to pull my threadripper block off again as it's looking pretty coppery (see pervious posts) but still could be due to crap from my rads although they have been flushed out about a dozen times now. Any issue I've had though Optimus has been supportive just a bit delayed in repsonses.

In any case, I would still just go nickel because it's so much easier and they warranty it.


----------



## dr/owned

gengar said:


> This statement is really confusing - what is keeping you from identifying which items are in-stock and ready to ship on your store?


They have a "ready to ship" section on their site. I needed a res top with a hole in it though so unfortunately I couldn't order one of the RTS ones.

I'm really hoping they just have a bin full of those tops and screw it on. I don't care about any of the other parts of the reservoir because it's going into an opaque soundproof box where I won't see it anyways (which is why I needed the hole on the top because I can't unscrew the entire cap to fill it.


----------



## rayuma

dr/owned said:


> Are they regularly shipping out reservoirs? I didn't see any notices saying "hey this will take 2 weeks to ship" but then again it's Optimus where they seem pretty well known for being delayed. I don't want to wait forever to replace a broken res when I can just order a Koolance one that gets to be by the end of the week.


I placed an order for a reservoir from their 'Build Your Own' section over a week ago and have not had any updates. I've emailed them since I needed the reservoir fairly soon and they have not responded.


----------



## RockyMtnOC

Just received my block tonight. Holy moly, no joking around about how heavy it is! First impressions just handling the thing are very positive. A few preliminary notes, though.

I got looking at the fins and found a little piece of debris stuck inside, lower right of the image. I banged on the backside and it floated around. 









I took the connection block off and used some air to blow it out, it was some kind of little piece of plastic. Easy enough to remove, but worth eyeballing for bits.










When I took the connection block off, and reinstalled it, I noticed that the middle screw wasn't threading down as far as the outer two screws, and felt "funky" while turning to its stopping point. The head was actually moving back and forth as it wasn't contacting the block.










I removed it again, and found the middle hole was full of machining debris, preventing the screw from bottoming out. Really hard to get a picture of it in-situ, but the middle hole is full of gunk.










Picked at it with a toothpick and some air, and quite a bit of debris came out. 










However, once the debris was removed, the screw threaded in just fine, and is contacting the block like it should be. I'm not positive the hole was threaded quite as deep as the outer two holes, because the screw does encounter some stiffness when tightening near the end of the depth, but it's tight and secure as it stands now. All good.

I'm not trying to knock on the assembly of the card, just raise awareness that it's worth doing a once over to check for small irregularities before use. Everything I encountered so far was addressable in a couple of minutes, and every other part I can see is flawless. I'm excited to get this thing full of water!


----------



## evilbob2200

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, man this thread gets off track  Can't read through everything, but...
> 
> COPPER: So nickel is the go-to right now because it's actually much more work to get a copper midplate that looks perfect than nickel (and even nickel has obviously had a lot of challenges). It has to do with how fast copper will oxidize or change color, especially when machining chemicals are present. Our GPU blocks take waaaaaay longer to make than our other blocks (they're something like 7lbs at start, end up at 2.5lbs), so there is far more time exposed to chemicals and air than the other blocks, thus making it trickier to do copper. So without revisiting the entire history of FTW production, nickel blocks are the mass produced ones right now, copper will be available in the future, but copper will take more time because of the aesthetic issues.
> 
> RESERVOIRS: We are regularly shipping out reservoirs, but not exactly sure, everything we're doing now is under a few weeks for shipping. We're moving towards only in-stock items, but it's taking a little while to get there.


interesting I might have to reconsider raw copper then

Ill shoot Matt an email @Optimus WC


----------



## criskoe

@Optimus WC 

sorry not sure if you have already mentioned this or not but is there plans to have a fully blacked out option for these gpu blocks? (Acetal)?

Patiently waiting for a blacked out XC3


----------



## gengar

dr/owned said:


> They have a "ready to ship" section on their site. I needed a res top with a hole in it though so unfortunately I couldn't order one of the RTS ones.


Pretty sure the "Ready To Ship" section in reservoirs has been there; it's to differentiate from the 'build your own' reservoirs. I was referring more generally to Optimus' stated commitment to showing what items are actually in-stock as opposed to what other retailers would refer to as backorders or preorders. It just seems very strange that Optimus has so much trouble being transparent about what items are actually available right now.


----------



## sakete

gengar said:


> Pretty sure the "Ready To Ship" section in reservoirs has been there; it's to differentiate from the 'build your own' reservoirs. I was referring more generally to Optimus' stated commitment to showing what items are actually in-stock as opposed to what other retailers would refer to as backorders or preorders. It just seems very strange that Optimus has so much trouble being transparent about what items are actually available right now.


I suspect that currently their website isn't linked to any stock database and they have to manually update it each time. So that's probably what they're working on implementing.


----------



## agentdark45

Right, get ready for some sacrilege! FTW3 block installed...with an EK high density LED strip jerry rigged to it.

Absolutely insane performance ~40-42c when OC'd to 2100mhz with the XC3 bios (was hitting 78c stock on air previously), water temp ~ 35-37C. Other components in the loop are a 2080ti (EK block), Threadripper 3970x, 2 D5's, and 1x360 + 2x480 HWlabs rads, 1x360 Alphacool rad.

Some better pics of the build before the FTW3 was added:


http://imgur.com/a/KVllEvD


----------



## Optimus WC

agentdark45 said:


> Absolutely insane performance ~40-42c when OC'd to 2100mhz with the XC3 bios (was hitting 78c stock on air previously), water temp ~ 35-37C.


Haha, awesome!

Edit: and take more pics, interesting to see it with LEDs


----------



## Raiden2a

Beautiful!


----------



## Bart

Beast!!! I hope Optimus will be an option if I can ever lay my hands on a 6900XT. I already have the Optimus CPU block, so I wouldn't be opposed to giving their GPU block a try. RGBs can always be added later. Duct tape solves everything!


----------



## dr/owned

rayuma said:


> I placed an order for a reservoir from their 'Build Your Own' section over a week ago and have not had any updates. I've emailed them since I needed the reservoir fairly soon and they have not responded.


Yeah, 24 hours later and no reply to my basic "when is this shipping?" question. Concerning that they have a social media guy doing forum posts but not a customer service person answering emails from paying customers...


----------



## Section31

Bart said:


> Beast!!! I hope Optimus will be an option if I can ever lay my hands on a 6900XT. I already have the Optimus CPU block, so I wouldn't be opposed to giving their GPU block a try. RGBs can always be added later. Duct tape solves everything!


Welcome to this thread


----------



## oreonutz

Section31 said:


> Welcome to this thread


Speaking of. 

Off Topic Quick Rant:

Who the Hell goes into their own Website backend, deletes all DNS Records, including their MX Records, then calls their IT Vendor (me), and Yells at them for breaking their email. And then Doesn't appologize for being so damn rude when I explain to them that it was the ******* who deleted the record who caused the problem to begin with.

Bastard!

Rant over...


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> Speaking of.
> 
> Off Topic Quick Rant:
> 
> Who the Hell goes into their own Website backend, deletes all DNS Records, including their MX Records, then calls their IT Vendor (me), and Yells at them for breaking their email. And then Doesn't appologize for being so damn rude when I explain to them that it was the ***** who deleted the record who caused the problem to begin with.
> 
> Bastard!
> 
> Rant over...


Haha. I manage my own domain, so yeah, kinda dumb to delete those records.


----------



## asdf893

straha20 said:


> Several of us in batch one requested copper when we were led to believe it would get us our blocks faster, only to have that time frame walked back. I don't recall if anyone who actually requested it got it.


i got a copper block


----------



## Keith Myers

I ordered another reservoir/pump combo from the "ready to ship" page. At least it behaved like the item I ordered was in stock. Other variations showed the "X" out graphic. Disappointed the item has not shipped yet. Very different response from Optimus from all my previous orders. Hope this is not a trend.


----------



## Swiso

Keith Myers said:


> I ordered another reservoir/pump combo from the "ready to ship" page. At least it behaved like the item I ordered was in stock. Other variations showed the "X" out graphic. Disappointed the item has not shipped yet. Very different response from Optimus from all my previous orders. Hope this is not a trend.


"Ready to ship" page ? 
Where you find this page ? 
Thanks


----------



## JustinThyme

oreonutz said:


> Speaking of.
> 
> Off Topic Quick Rant:
> 
> Who the Hell goes into their own Website backend, deletes all DNS Records, including their MX Records, then calls their IT Vendor (me), and Yells at them for breaking their email. And then Doesn't appologize for being so damn rude when I explain to them that it was the ***** who deleted the record who caused the problem to begin with.
> 
> Bastard!
> 
> Rant over...


Welcome to the wonderful world of service. Youd be surprised how many times Ive gotten run out of bed at 2AM when on call and talked to the customer that didnt want to hear what I had to say, jsut that they paid for a 4 hour response time and wanted someone there. So I go and they dumped their entire data center because they ran to the UPS room and pushed the Emergency power on button bult also same thing with the extra power on button. You Moron! it was doing just what it was supposed to do until you put your dick skinners on it. EPO is EMERGENCY POWER OFF!!! The labels have since been changed with a silk screening under them that state......depressing this button will result in a load loss!


----------



## JustinThyme

Keith Myers said:


> I ordered another reservoir/pump combo from the "ready to ship" page. At least it behaved like the item I ordered was in stock. Other variations showed the "X" out graphic. Disappointed the item has not shipped yet. Very different response from Optimus from all my previous orders. Hope this is not a trend.


Heres the ready to ship.....LMAO


----------



## rayuma

Keith Myers said:


> I ordered another reservoir/pump combo from the "ready to ship" page. At least it behaved like the item I ordered was in stock. Other variations showed the "X" out graphic. Disappointed the item has not shipped yet. Very different response from Optimus from all my previous orders. Hope this is not a trend.


How long has it been since you placed the order? I still haven't received a reply from Optimus regarding my order from 10 days ago.


----------



## Keith Myers

rayuma said:


> How long has it been since you placed the order? I still haven't received a reply from Optimus regarding my order from 10 days ago.


Only 9 days for me. But my previous orders shipped within a day. No communication from Optimus this time.


----------



## oreonutz

JustinThyme said:


> Welcome to the wonderful world of service. Youd be surprised how many times Ive gotten run out of bed at 2AM when on call and talked to the customer that didnt want to hear what I had to say, jsut that they paid for a 4 hour response time and wanted someone there. So I go and they dumped their entire data center because they ran to the UPS room and pushed the Emergency power on button bult also same thing with the extra power on button. You Moron! it was doing just what it was supposed to do until you put your dick skinners on it. EPO is EMERGENCY POWER OFF!!! The labels have since been changed with a silk screening under them that state......depressing this button will result in a load loss!


LOL!

No Stranger to the world of service, it still just sometimes astounds me how bad some clients can be... Going on Year 7 running my own business, and yet still the stupidity can be astounding. I am here to help people with their IT needs, so I don't fault my clients for not knowing their tech, I do fault them for retaining my services, but then instead of reaching out, doing something stupid themselves, or even worse, going against the direct advice I have given, only for it to blow up in their face and then yell at me for it. It can be frustrating, lol. 

Anyways.

One more offtopic, umm, topic. Lol. Sorry, I know there are a few of you Aqua Computer guys in here, so I figured I could ask here and get a decent answer. 

I just got the Ultitube Res and the D5 Next. What the hell is this "Expansion Tank"? I had to buy the Pro Res and the D5 next separately, and the sale page on the Ultitube says "The expansion tank is supplied without connections, please order suitable connections separately." Do I have to buy something else to connect the Res to the D5 Next?

Sorry for being dumb, not used to this "Expansion Tank" talk.


----------



## Shawnb99

oreonutz said:


> LOL!
> 
> No Stranger to the world of service, it still just sometimes astounds me how bad some clients can be... Going on Year 7 running my own business, and yet still the stupidity can be astounding. I am here to help people with their IT needs, so I don't fault my clients for not knowing their tech, I do fault them for retaining my services, but then instead of reaching out, doing something stupid themselves, or even worse, going against the direct advice I have given, only for it to blow up in their face and then yell at me for it. It can be frustrating, lol.
> 
> Anyways.
> 
> One more offtopic, umm, topic. Lol. Sorry, I know there are a few of you Aqua Computer guys in here, so I figured I could ask here and get a decent answer.
> 
> I just got the Ultitube Res and the D5 Next. What the hell is this "Expansion Tank"? I had to buy the Pro Res and the D5 next separately, and the sale page on the Ultitube says "The expansion tank is supplied without connections, please order suitable connections separately." Do I have to buy something else to connect the Res to the D5 Next?
> 
> Sorry for being dumb, not used to this "Expansion Tank" talk.


From reading the description on Aquatuning it seems they are calling the glass part of the reservoir as the expansion tank. Confusing as hell.
As far as I know nothing else should be needed

*** were they thinking calling an expansion tank. Never heard that before


----------



## J7SC

oreonutz said:


> (...) I just got the Ultitube Res and the D5 Next. What the hell is this "Expansion Tank"? I had to buy the Pro Res and the D5 next separately, and the sale page on the Ultitube says "The expansion tank is supplied without connections, please order suitable connections separately." Do I have to buy something else to connect the Res to the D5 Next?
> 
> Sorry for being dumb, not used to this "Expansion Tank" talk.





Shawnb99 said:


> From reading the description on Aquatuning it seems they are calling the glass part of the reservoir as the expansion tank. Confusing as hell.
> As far as I know nothing else should be needed
> 
> *** were they thinking calling an expansion tank. Never heard that before


"Ausgleichsbehaelter"  actually means equalization chamber >> a.k.a. simply reservoir 

@oreonutz : D5 Next


----------



## WayWayUp

here's my poverty pic for now.
I set it up janky because it's very temporary as i plan to move into a core p7 this weekend. Have something special planned for that one with 3 separate loops


----------



## Avacado

WayWayUp said:


> here's my poverty pic for now.
> I set it up janky because it's very temporary as i plan to move into a core p7 this weekend. Have something special planned for that one with 3 separate loops
> 
> View attachment 2472957


The kinks in the CPU inlet and outlet tubes make me want to give you a hug. Are you ok?


----------



## J7SC

@oreonutz - 

Caseking.de Ausgleichsbehaelter - German and English page






Ausgleichsbehälter für Wasserkühlungen online kaufen


Ausgleichsbehälter für Wasserkühlungen jetzt bei CASEKING online kaufen ✓ Große Auswahl ✓ Günstige Preise ✓ Versand innerhalb 24h




www.caseking.de




,






Liquid Cooling Reservoirs order online | CASEKING


Liquid Cooling Reservoirs order now at CASEKING ~large choice ~cheapest prices ~delivery in 24h - HIER ist NICHTS Standard!




www.caseking.de




,


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> From reading the description on Aquatuning it seems they are calling the glass part of the reservoir as the expansion tank. Confusing as hell.
> As far as I know nothing else should be needed
> 
> *** were they thinking calling an expansion tank. Never heard that before





J7SC said:


> "Ausgleichsbehaelter"  actually means equalization chamber >> a.k.a. simply reservoir
> 
> @oreonutz : D5 Next



Thank You Both. That is much clearer. I was so confused reading the description. But Glad to have the Ultitube and D5 Next. Would have prefered the Optimus Res, but figured I would just add one to the loop whenever they are in stock. For now I have the D5 Next and an Extra D5 for the GPU Loop, and the Swiftech Maelstrom and an Extra D5 for the CPU Loop. So 4 Pumps total, 2 Separate loops, plenty of Redundancy.

Excited for the Rebuild!


----------



## oreonutz

WayWayUp said:


> here's my poverty pic for now.
> I set it up janky because it's very temporary as i plan to move into a core p7 this weekend. Have something special planned for that one with 3 separate loops
> 
> View attachment 2472957


That is awesome!

Again, people out here Kink Shaming! I love your Kinks man! LOL!

For real, awesome build. Can't wait to see what you do with the Core P7. I haven't been able to find one for a reasonable price, so I am moving to a Core P5. Expecting it to be delivered sometime next week.


----------



## Avacado

oreonutz said:


> Again, people out here Kink Shaming! I love your Kinks man! LOL!


I beg you to revisit the "Kink shaming", I did no such thing. I actually wanted to give him a hug, how is that shaming????


----------



## oreonutz

Avacado said:


> I beg you to revisit the "Kink shaming", I did no such thing. I actually wanted to give him a hug, how is that shaming????


LOL! I stand Corrected! Share the love my friend, all the love the better right now! LOL!


----------



## WayWayUp

Avacado said:


> The kinks in the CPU inlet and outlet tubes make me want to give you a hug. Are you ok?


hehe it's okay. i didnt bother to hard tube it because it's only for a few days so the setup is weird since i have some soft tubing. I really just wanted to get the waterblock in there
It looked like tis before: 






















realized i keep going for something more and more extreme that wont really work in this case and i keep adding new components like new gpu and cpu block. Hence my decision for finally swap cases

I cant wait to setup new case it will be something to be proud of


----------



## oreonutz

WayWayUp said:


> hehe it's okay. i didnt bother to hard tube it because it's only for a few days so the setup is weird since i have some soft tubing. I cant wait to setup new case it will be something to be proud of


May I ask where you found a P7 in stock for a reasonable price?


----------



## J7SC

oreonutz said:


> (...). *So 4 Pumps total, 2 Separate loops, plenty of Redundancy.*
> 
> Excited for the Rebuild!


...nice ! Apart from redundancy, dual D5 (per loop) also help greatly with more stable pressure, according to DerBauer


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> LOL!
> 
> No Stranger to the world of service, it still just sometimes astounds me how bad some clients can be... Going on Year 7 running my own business, and yet still the stupidity can be astounding. I am here to help people with their IT needs, so I don't fault my clients for not knowing their tech, I do fault them for retaining my services, but then instead of reaching out, doing something stupid themselves, or even worse, going against the direct advice I have given, only for it to blow up in their face and then yell at me for it. It can be frustrating, lol.
> 
> Anyways.
> 
> One more offtopic, umm, topic. Lol. Sorry, I know there are a few of you Aqua Computer guys in here, so I figured I could ask here and get a decent answer.
> 
> I just got the Ultitube Res and the D5 Next. What the hell is this "Expansion Tank"? I had to buy the Pro Res and the D5 next separately, and the sale page on the Ultitube says "The expansion tank is supplied without connections, please order suitable connections separately." Do I have to buy something else to connect the Res to the D5 Next?
> 
> Sorry for being dumb, not used to this "Expansion Tank" talk.





oreonutz said:


> LOL!
> 
> No Stranger to the world of service, it still just sometimes astounds me how bad some clients can be... Going on Year 7 running my own business, and yet still the stupidity can be astounding. I am here to help people with their IT needs, so I don't fault my clients for not knowing their tech, I do fault them for retaining my services, but then instead of reaching out, doing something stupid themselves, or even worse, going against the direct advice I have given, only for it to blow up in their face and then yell at me for it. It can be frustrating, lol.
> 
> Anyways.
> 
> One more offtopic, umm, topic. Lol. Sorry, I know there are a few of you Aqua Computer guys in here, so I figured I could ask here and get a decent answer.
> 
> I just got the Ultitube Res and the D5 Next. What the hell is this "Expansion Tank"? I had to buy the Pro Res and the D5 next separately, and the sale page on the Ultitube says "The expansion tank is supplied without connections, please order suitable connections separately." Do I have to buy something else to connect the Res to the D5 Next?
> 
> Sorry for being dumb, not used to this "Expansion Tank" talk.


Its alright, it’s helping people out. Better than complaining about shipping. 

Me and Shawnb99 probably are waiting on stuff longer yet haven’t gotten angry lol. I wonder how some of you here would take having to wait 6 months for an piano to ship out of Japan - no confirmation yet and 1year plus for some custom sleeved cables from beyond customs (well i added stuff and adjusted length but its been 2-3months already). Home automation upgrade was planned for Dec 2020 but looking like Mar-April at this rate.


----------



## Section31

WayWayUp said:


> hehe it's okay. i didnt bother to hard tube it because it's only for a few days so the setup is weird since i have some soft tubing. I really just wanted to get the waterblock in there
> It looked like tis before:
> 
> 
> View attachment 2472959
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2472960
> 
> 
> 
> realized i keep going for something more and more extreme that wont really work in this case and i keep adding new components like new gpu and cpu block. Hence my decision for finally swap cases
> 
> I cant wait to setup new case it will be something to be proud of


Looks nice


----------



## WayWayUp

oreonutz said:


> That is awesome!
> 
> Again, people out here Kink Shaming! I love your Kinks man! LOL!
> 
> For real, awesome build. Can't wait to see what you do with the Core P7. I haven't been able to find one for a reasonable price, so I am moving to a Core P5. Expecting it to be delivered sometime next week.


you will love that case! looked into it heavily it's very lovely


----------



## WayWayUp

oreonutz said:


> May I ask where you found a P7 in stock for a reasonable price?


it cost me $300 it was the last one on amazon. It took forever for it to be in stock.
I had a lot of gift cards though so it turned out okay. plus i usually cash in my coins at coinstar for amazon bucks since there is no fee


----------



## oreonutz

WayWayUp said:


> it cost me $300 it was the last one on amazon. It took forever for it to be in stock.
> I had a lot of gift cards though so it turned out okay. plus i usually cash in my coins at coinstar for amazon bucks since there is no fee


Good to know. Damn, I have been looking on and off on Amazon and Newegg for that case, and every single time its $500 or more, which is ridiculous. $300 I would pay. Really its those extra "doors?" that I want for the Radiators. Instead I will be keeping my external Pump/Rad Station since I can't fit all the Rads on the Case itself. But Hopefully I can upgrade at some point. Would be cool if I could just buy those Doors and add them on to the P5, not sure if that is possible though.


----------



## WayWayUp

oreonutz said:


> Good to know. Damn, I have been looking on and off on Amazon and Newegg for that case, and every single time its $500 or more, which is ridiculous. $300 I would pay. Really its those extra "doors?" that I want for the Radiators. Instead I will be keeping my external Pump/Rad Station since I can't fit all the Rads on the Case itself. But Hopefully I can upgrade at some point. Would be cool if I could just buy those Doors and add them on to the P5, not sure if that is possible though.


I looked into that as well.
I didnt see an expansion option on Thermaltake's website unfortunately 
I really love the two sides as its open air for the rads and they dont compete. heat is isolated, ext
plus its so clean and you dont have to worry about size. If you wanted to add 2 x 480 60mm+ thick rads in a push pull you have all the room in the world to do so. just love the concept of it

The external station is a good tradeoff though


----------



## Shawnb99

WayWayUp said:


> you will love that case!


Those words don’t go with Thermalfake.
We really need another Caselabs so crap like TT is never an option.

It really sucks there are so few options once you start going up in size.


----------



## J7SC

oreonutz said:


> Good to know. Damn, I have been looking on and off on Amazon and Newegg for that case, and every single time its $500 or more, which is ridiculous. $300 I would pay. Really its those extra "doors?" that I want for the Radiators. Instead I will be keeping my external Pump/Rad Station since I can't fit all the Rads on the Case itself. But Hopefully I can upgrade at some point. Would be cool if I could just buy those Doors and add them on to the P5, not sure if that is possible though.


I have seen s.th. like that (wing extensions for a Core P5) done a while ago, have to see if I can locate the pics on the interweb...be that as it may, I neither like or dislike any particular case company. After 20 yrs in the computer field, I just like / dislike some specific models of a given manufacturer. As to Thermaltake, I love their TT Core P5, and it spite of heavy modding and adding way more weight (5x thick 360s, 4x D5s, 20x 120mm fans) it is as sturdy as ever w/o any problems (build is two years old). Ditto for TT cooling liquid and TT fan controller. BTW, I got my Core P5 in Vancouver as 'open box' (no pun intended) for well under US$ 90

Two cases I'm nostalgic about though are the CM Stryker - had a 'new' one from 2013 I finally employed a few months back - and the NZXT Phantom 410


----------



## originxt

J7SC said:


> I have seen s.th. like that (wing extensions for a Core P5) done a while ago, have to see if I can locate the pics on the interweb...be that as it may, I neither like or dislike any particular case company. After 20 yrs in the computer field, I just like / dislike some specific models of a given manufacturer. As to Thermaltake, I love their TT Core P5, and it spite of heavy modding and adding way more weight (5x thick 360s, 4x D5s, 20x 120mm fans) it is as sturdy as ever w/o any problems (build is two years old). Ditto for TT cooling liquid and TT fan controller. BTW, I got my Core P5 in Vancouver as 'open box' (no pun intended) for well under US$ 90
> 
> Two cases I'm nostalgic about though are the CM Stryker - had a 'new' one from 2013 I finally employed a few months back - and the NZXT Phantom 410


My 2nd case was the Stryker, still have it. Big chonky boy but I am unsure if the panel will close with a 3090+waterblock.


----------



## J7SC

originxt said:


> My 2nd case was the Stryker, still have it. Big chonky boy but I am unsure if the panel will close with a 3090+waterblock.


It _could_ fit, the key being that your 3090 is water-blocked (not so sure about air-cooled 3090 Suprim-X or Aorus XTR monsters). Pics below from a few months back for the retro build; 2x 980 Classified sit on an Asus workstation X79-E WS (e-ATX) board. Just about two inch clearance from the top (illuminated) of the 980 Classified air cooler to the panel glass in the CM Stryker...and according to EVGA, 980 CL has a height of 5.94 in and length of 11 in


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Those words don’t go with Thermalfake.
> We really need another Caselabs so crap like TT is never an option.
> 
> It really sucks there are so few options once you start going up in size.


It's basically an call for everyone in this thread to combine our efforts and bring back caselabs under an economic model that can succeed.


----------



## dwolvin

If only. I'd love to see a good modular system come back.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> It's basically an call for everyone in this thread to combine our efforts and bring back caselabs under an economic model that can succeed.


Only economic model that could work on a very small scale is build to order. In other words, someone places an order, and then the raw materials get purchased, processed, machined, assembled, etc. And then shipped. And then a way to not have to own or rent any of manufacturing equipment, but pay per use. So maybe 2-3 months per order lead time. And it'll be very expensive. So it could maybe work that way, but it'll likely fail as well. Unfortunately, most people don't buy big computer cases.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Only economic model that could work on a very small scale is build to order. In other words, someone places an order, and then the raw materials get purchased, processed, machined, assembled, etc. And then shipped. And then a way to not have to own or rent any of manufacturing equipment, but pay per use. So maybe 2-3 months per order lead time. And it'll be very expensive. So it could maybe work that way, but it'll likely fail as well. Unfortunately, most people don't buy big computer cases.


Thank you for starting off the idea concept.


----------



## CluckyTaco

Is there anyway to sign up for notifications for stock refreshes on Optimus website? I missed this last stock update and wasn't able to get a Foundation block. Or is there a secret handshake I missed somewhere...?


----------



## Palito93

CluckyTaco said:


> Is there anyway to sign up for notifications for stock refreshes on Optimus website? I missed this last stock update and wasn't able to get a Foundation block. Or is there a secret handshake I missed somewhere...?


I would follow this thread to be honest. 
I initially found out they were in stock on the evga forum

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Section31

CluckyTaco said:


> Is there anyway to sign up for notifications for stock refreshes on Optimus website? I missed this last stock update and wasn't able to get a Foundation block. Or is there a secret handshake I missed somewhere...?


Give them some time, i think anything but GPU blocks will be have longer concerns of availability.


----------



## JustinThyme

oreonutz said:


> LOL!
> 
> No Stranger to the world of service, it still just sometimes astounds me how bad some clients can be... Going on Year 7 running my own business, and yet still the stupidity can be astounding. I am here to help people with their IT needs, so I don't fault my clients for not knowing their tech, I do fault them for retaining my services, but then instead of reaching out, doing something stupid themselves, or even worse, going against the direct advice I have given, only for it to blow up in their face and then yell at me for it. It can be frustrating, lol.
> 
> Anyways.
> 
> One more offtopic, umm, topic. Lol. Sorry, I know there are a few of you Aqua Computer guys in here, so I figured I could ask here and get a decent answer.
> 
> I just got the Ultitube Res and the D5 Next. What the hell is this "Expansion Tank"? I had to buy the Pro Res and the D5 next separately, and the sale page on the Ultitube says "The expansion tank is supplied without connections, please order suitable connections separately." Do I have to buy something else to connect the Res to the D5 Next?
> 
> Sorry for being dumb, not used to this "Expansion Tank" talk.


Expansion tank is just a loose translation of reservoir. If you bought the one made for a D5 pump any D5 should just be a matter of installing it to the bottom of the tank, the head and inlet/outlet should already be part of the reservoir. When they say fittings they are talking about G1/4 fittings for your tubing. I’m running a D5 Next at the bottom of my HK 200mm tube res. Very nice combo. Then that output goes into a bitspower serial block feeding two more D5s, aquaero variants with aquabus control. I usually avoid ordering direct as the parts are normally available in the US. Even when they have a special they end up costing more once you pay the VAT and the shipping. When I do place an order there I make sure it’s a substantial one so it’s worth the shipping costs.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Expansion tank is just a loose translation of reservoir. If you bought the one made for a D5 pump any D5 should just be a matter of installing it to the bottom of the tank, the head and inlet/outlet should already be part of the reservoir. When they say fittings they are talking about G1/4 fittings for your tubing. I’m running a D5 Next at the bottom of my HK 200mm tube res. Very nice combo. Then that output goes into a bitspower serial block feeding two more D5s, aquaero variants with aquabus control. I usually avoid ordering direct as the parts are normally available in the US. Even when they have a special they end up costing more once you pay the VAT and the shipping. When I do place an order there I make sure it’s a substantial one so it’s worth the shipping costs.


I'm not expert when it comes to the US but for Canada, its an tie between buying aquacomputer from Germany and Dazmode. The US is not an option as its actually more expensive unless you guys are running sales. 

Couple of us here including me have probably explored/tried all methods of purchasing and how to maximize savings. One of these days, its going to involve me shipping parts to Hong Kong/China and then bringing it back to Canada with me when I go travel there. That way I can use my travel exemption (I really don't buy a lot there outside of food stuff) and save on taxes part.

Dazmode - Cad Dollar but sometimes his pricing sucks and takes couple months to get in. Shipping wise, daz is cheaper if not too many items.
Germany Direct - You get Vat taken off (16-19%) and get quick arrival. Concerns: Currency Rate (up to payment method), Shipping wise i found Aquacomputer/Heatkiller to be reasonable. For Canadians, remember to contact aqaucomputer by email to get access to dhl express not ups shipping. You save a lot on shipping.

It also helps when you run it in group buys but they don't really exist. I think i am the only one running them but I got network of local watercooling friends and some contacts online who I have positive dealings with. My upcoming heatkiller group buy has got couple people in it and I should qualify for free shipping. There's an Optimus one too planned. So far it has worked out for all parties involved, an aquacomputer next flow sensor costed all parties 120ish cad all in when Dazmode was 125cad pre-tax and shipping.

This only really works because for whatever reason, where i live, there are enough people into watercooling pc's. It's pure coincidence that Chibi, Shawnb99, me all live in same geographical area.


----------



## J7SC

Section31 said:


> I'm not expert when it comes to the US but for Canada, its an tie between buying aquacomputer from Germany and Dazmode. The US is not an option as its actually more expensive unless you guys are running sales.
> 
> Couple of us here including me have probably explored/tried all methods of purchasing and how to maximize savings. One of these days, its going to involve me shipping parts to Hong Kong/China and then bringing it back to Canada with me when I go travel there. That way I can use my travel exemption (I really don't buy a lot there outside of food stuff) and save on taxes part.
> 
> Dazmode - Cad Dollar but sometimes his pricing sucks and takes couple months to get in. Shipping wise, daz is cheaper if not too many items.
> Germany Direct - You get Vat taken off (16-19%) and get quick arrival. Concerns: Currency Rate (up to payment method), Shipping wise i found Aquacomputer/Heatkiller to be reasonable. For Canadians, remember to contact aqaucomputer by email to get access to dhl express not ups shipping. You save a lot on shipping.
> 
> It also helps when you run it in group buys but they don't really exist. I think i am the only one running them but I got network of local watercooling friends and some contacts online who I have positive dealings with. My upcoming heatkiller group buy has got couple people in it and I should qualify for free shipping. There's an Optimus one too planned. So far it has worked out for all parties involved, an aquacomputer next flow sensor costed all parties 120ish cad all in when Dazmode was 125cad pre-tax and shipping.
> 
> This only really works because for whatever reason, where i live, there are enough people into watercooling pc's. It's pure coincidence that Chibi, Shawnb99, me all live in same geographical area.


...I get the feeling of 'deja vu' re. duties and shipping from Germany to W.Canada ? Anyway, I placed an order w/ Watercool in Germany for a TR block awhile back, opting for FedEx 'economy' - the thing got here to Canada's West Coast in 6 days. Best of all, no duties and VAT. I think it depends whether it is on some sort of trade exempt list. The Watercool receipt had this on the bottom: _ "Deliveries to non-EU countries may be subject to additional duties, taxes and charges.This is a tax-free export to a third country in accordance with §4 Nr. 1a UStG". _I have bought other w-cooling equipment from both Germany and the US, and tax / duties application 'varied', case by case.


----------



## Section31

J7SC said:


> ...I get the feeling of 'deja vu' re. duties and shipping from Germany to W.Canada ? Anyway, I placed an order w/ Watercool in Germany for a TR block awhile back, opting for FedEx 'economy' - the thing got here to Canada's West Coast in 6 days. Best of all, no duties and VAT. I think it depends whether it is on some sort of trade exempt list. The Watercool receipt had this on the bottom: _ "Deliveries to non-EU countries may be subject to additional duties, taxes and charges.This is a tax-free export to a third country in accordance with §4 Nr. 1a UStG". _I have bought other w-cooling equipment from both Germany and the US, and tax / duties application 'varied', case by case.


Sometimes you get lucky. I never have gotten away from duties (wrong term: its really processing fee + gst/pst/hst) unless they made an mistake or you used national carriers. Hence why i used to use USPS for everything US till the pandemic hit.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I'm not expert when it comes to the US but for Canada, its an tie between buying aquacomputer from Germany and Dazmode. The US is not an option as its actually more expensive unless you guys are running sales.
> 
> Couple of us here including me have probably explored/tried all methods of purchasing and how to maximize savings. One of these days, its going to involve me shipping parts to Hong Kong/China and then bringing it back to Canada with me when I go travel there. That way I can use my travel exemption (I really don't buy a lot there outside of food stuff) and save on taxes part.
> 
> Dazmode - Cad Dollar but sometimes his pricing sucks and takes couple months to get in. Shipping wise, daz is cheaper if not too many items.
> Germany Direct - You get Vat taken off (16-19%) and get quick arrival. Concerns: Currency Rate (up to payment method), Shipping wise i found Aquacomputer/Heatkiller to be reasonable. For Canadians, remember to contact aqaucomputer by email to get access to dhl express not ups shipping. You save a lot on shipping.
> 
> It also helps when you run it in group buys but they don't really exist. I think i am the only one running them but I got network of local watercooling friends and some contacts online who I have positive dealings with. My upcoming heatkiller group buy has got couple people in it and I should qualify for free shipping. There's an Optimus one too planned. So far it has worked out for all parties involved, an aquacomputer next flow sensor costed all parties 120ish cad all in when Dazmode was 125cad pre-tax and shipping.
> 
> This only really works because for whatever reason, where i live, there are enough people into watercooling pc's. It's pure coincidence that Chibi, Shawnb99, me all live in same geographical area.


I’ve ordered from Dazmode and had it shipped by postal service. Yeah you Cannucks get a raw deal. I once bought so camera lens filters from a guy in BC. He sent them UPS. I refused delivery when they asked me to pay a brokerage fee for more than what I paid for the filters. Told them to send the parcel back. Which then did, on them then he resent using regular mail that costs less anyhow and no stupid UPS brokerage fees. The customs fee was like $4 and the UPS brokerage fee was like $40. Kiss my a$$!

You guys get some premium time in the winter for OC runs. Set you MORA in the window or just the case on the balcony and instant subzero! Too cold for me. I made a business trip to the oil fields in Prudhoe bay in what’s considered summer. The warmest it for was -2C in the middle of July, nothing but Ice. I’m like how in the hell do you guys do this I the winter. One guy had to show me a video of him taking a leak and it was freezing to little pellets before it hit the ground. They said normal winter temps are like -60. They talked me into joining the Alaskan polar bearclub. A hole cut in the ice and you jump in it. I pulled up there in a truck and wearing a robe with the heater running full bore. Took off the robe, ran and jumped in and jumped the hell back out, my hair was frozen before I got back in the truck. Took me like 3 days to stop shivering. COLD!!!


----------



## Eulerian

Anyone know if we're still in Batch 1 or have we moved onto Batch 2?


----------



## straha20

Eulerian said:


> Anyone know if we're still in Batch 1 or have we moved onto Batch 2?


Still batch 1 as I am still waiting for mine. I would guess that the earliest shipping would be sometime next week as they aren't even expecting all the parts in house until tomorrow at the earliest. And then they will have to go through QC, and then be assembled. So could be a couple more weeks for batch 1 to finish.


----------



## evilbob2200

looks like the plating is going much more smoothly  this is from 2 hours ago


----------



## Palito93

straha20 said:


> Still batch 1 as I am still waiting for mine. I would guess that the earliest shipping would be sometime next week as they aren't even expecting all the parts in house until tomorrow at the earliest. And then they will have to go through QC, and then be assembled. So could be a couple more weeks for batch 1 to finish.


According to them on twitter, there is only one order left in batch 1? Are they lying?

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1347236344150454272
Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Optimus WC

Palito93 said:


> According to them on twitter, there is only one order left in batch 1? Are they lying?
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1347236344150454272
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Nope. "Ben M" is the last from batch 1. If you think we're missing something or off, DM me with your info.


----------



## Shawnb99

If you’re going to accuse them of lying with everything they say why even ask questions or post here? 
Why are you even here if you don’t trust them? We don’t need trolls otherwise why are you here if all they do is lie?


----------



## Shawnb99

Show me proof of one ****ing lie, not some opinion or bitching from a baby. Show me one actual ****ing lie, otherwise **** off with these accusations. I’m so sick of seeing this ****. ENOUGH prove it or **** right off
As I said we don’t need or want your trolling ass here.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Nope. "Ben M" is the last from batch 1. If you think we're missing something or off, DM me with your info.


And I am Ben M, so for me, batch 1 isn't complete yet


----------



## evilbob2200

straha20 said:


> And I am Ben M, so for me, batch 1 isn't complete yet


guess that means your block is right around the corner!! grats!


----------



## Palito93

Shawnb99 said:


> Show me proof of one **ing lie, not some opinion or bitching from a baby. Show me one actual ****ing lie, otherwise ** off with these accusations. I’m so sick of seeing this **. ENOUGH prove it or ** right off
> As I said we don’t need or want your trolling ass here.


Dude you need to chill lol. I was just asking if it was a lie since they said batch 1 was completed and he said he still didn't receive anything from batch 1

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## straha20

evilbob2200 said:


> guess that means your block is right around the corner!! grats!


Just received an email from Optimus suggesting that my block should be shipped tomorrow, and we are discussing shipping options. No doubt some here on this thread will be almost as happy as I am when I get my block so that I shut up here.

I will post pictures when my build is complete as it is nothing like anything posted yet on this thread.


----------



## acoustic

Looking forward to it. Hope you get your block ASAP!


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Looking forward to it. Hope you get your block ASAP!


Hopefully its the start of more good new. The news in general for availability and just overall is dreadful. I'm following the big jump in costs of components and materials (copper prices doubled in one month) and getting concerned


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> Hopefully its the start of more good new. The news in general for availability and just overall is dreadful. I'm following the big jump in costs of components and materials (copper prices doubled in one month) and getting concerned


I don't believe we've gotten hit yet on copper, not sure if it's a US vs rest of the world thing. Copper is a very expensive part of the block, and we use a ton to get the performance (7lbs per block).


----------



## Avacado

Optimus WC said:


> I don't believe we've gotten hit yet on copper, not sure if it's a US vs rest of the world thing. Copper is a very expensive part of the block, and we use a ton to get the performance (7lbs per block).


Really though?










20$ worth of copper per block. Nickel twice that.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> I don't believe we've gotten hit yet on copper, not sure if it's a US vs rest of the world thing. Copper is a very expensive part of the block, and we use a ton to get the performance (7lbs per block).


That's good to hear. I am moving up my the timeline of my groupbuy programs up. Get them done before that and shipping logistics costs jump some more.


----------



## RockyMtnOC

straha20 said:


> And I am Ben M, so for me, batch 1 isn't complete yet


Weird seeing my name up there...lol. Howdy, fellow Ben M! Already got my block tho, fingers crossed yours gets there quick!


----------



## straha20

RockyMtnOC said:


> Weird seeing my name up there...lol. Howdy, fellow Ben M! Already got my block tho, fingers crossed yours gets there quick!


Small world eh? Looking forward to my shipping notice today, and hopefully I get my block tomorrow.


----------



## straha20

Final shipping notice in batch 1 received at 9:26am today.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> I don't believe we've gotten hit yet on copper, not sure if it's a US vs rest of the world thing. Copper is a very expensive part of the block, and we use a ton to get the performance (7lbs per block).


I miss the days when a solid silver block was an option. Then again we were using heater cores from cars and aquarium pumps so don’t miss it that much.


----------



## GAN77

Shawnb99 said:


> I miss the days when a solid silver block was an option. Then again we were using heater cores from cars and aquarium pumps so don’t miss it that much.


Nothing prevents you from going back to the past.


----------



## Shawnb99

GAN77 said:


> Nothing prevents you from going back to the past.


I don’t own a hot tub, they don’t sell Chernobyl energy drink here nor can I afford a Delorean


----------



## Wihglah

Shawnb99 said:


> I don’t own a hot tub, they don’t sell Chernobyl energy drink here nor can I afford a Delorean


Can you run really really fast?


----------



## Shawnb99

Wihglah said:


> Can you run really really fast?


Sure for like a block, anything past that and I’d keel over


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I miss the days when a solid silver block was an option. Then again we were using heater cores from cars and aquarium pumps so don’t miss it that much.


Thats what scared me off watercooling in the day.


----------



## chuggz

originxt said:


> AHHH, need more POWER. Damn FTW3 power anomalies. Strangely, it is drawing less power than when it was just on air. Nevertheless, gpu never rose above 8c from water temps.
> 
> View attachment 2471572
> 
> 
> I am missing a screw however @Optimus WC , 1 16mm torx "red".


Hotter wires / electronics have more internal resistance so have to use more power to overcome that resistance and deliver the needed net power through the chip.


----------



## Section31

On a happier note, I wonder which of the individuals here will be the first to have an All Optimus Builds PC (with everything they carry) since they are only missing radiators and to complete there fittings lineup.


----------



## tbrown7552

Section31 said:


> On a happier note, I wonder which of the individuals here will be the first to have an All Optimus Builds PC (with everything they carry) since they are only missing radiators and to complete there fittings lineup.


i plan to run foundation block, 12 inch tube res and gpu block. Wont use their fittings


----------



## Section31

tbrown7552 said:


> i plan to run foundation block, 12 inch tube res and gpu block. Wont use their fittings


It seems like everyone is missing one item - either its the fittings or its there reservoir.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Section31 said:


> On a happier note, I wonder which of the individuals here will be the first to have an All Optimus Builds PC (with everything they carry) since they are only missing radiators and to complete there fittings lineup.


I'm basically there with a 12" res/pump combo, foundation cpu block, ftw3 block(batch 2), and 14mm hardline fittings.


----------



## Section31

Edge0fsanity said:


> I'm basically there with a 12" res/pump combo, foundation cpu block, ftw3 block(batch 2), and 14mm hardline fittings.


Thats great. Its photo worthy


----------



## chuggz

Section31 said:


> On a happier note, I wonder which of the individuals here will be the first to have an All Optimus Builds PC (with everything they carry) since they are only missing radiators and to complete there fittings lineup.


I have pump+res, signature v2, and a pile of fittings, just waiting on a copper gpu block to complete a hard copper pipe white/silver/copper build in a core p5. Gonna be a boulder even empty that's for sure.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> On a happier note, I wonder which of the individuals here will be the first to have an All Optimus Builds PC (with everything they carry) since they are only missing radiators and to complete there fittings lineup.


The closest I’ll ever come is everything but the reservoirs. I’ll gladly pay the price premium for their amazing blocks but I refuse to pay that much for a pump/ reservoirs combo. Plus the fact any pump issues and you have to deal direct with Xylem instead of Optimus. Come with a glass reservoir and redesign the pump mount for any D5 and I’d grab one


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> The closest I’ll ever come is everything but the reservoirs. I’ll gladly pay the price premium for their amazing blocks but I refuse to pay that much for a pump/ reservoirs combo. Plus the fact any pump issues and you have to deal direct with Xylem instead of Optimus. Come with a glass reservoir and redesign the pump mount for any D5 and I’d grab one


Would consider that for sure


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Shawnb99 said:


> I miss the days when a solid silver block was an option. Then again we were using heater cores from cars and aquarium pumps so don’t miss it that much.


I still have a pair of Cathar Storm G5's when I had daydreamed of building a dual Socket-A system.

I am curious how one would compare on my bare-die 9900KS today vs. my Optimus V2.


----------



## Shawnb99

Voodoo Rufus said:


> I still have a pair of Cathar Storm G5's when I had daydreamed of building a dual Socket-A system.
> 
> I am curious how one would compare on my bare-die 9900KS today vs. my Optimus V2.


Cathar!! That was the name, I’ve been racking my brain forever trying to remember those. He made amazing blocks. It’s crazy to think the best back then was from a one man team.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Cathar!! That was the name, I’ve been racking my brain forever trying to remember those. He made amazing blocks. It’s crazy to think the best back then was from a one man team.


The good old days. I actually did run a pair of those blocks on a pair of Athlon FX51 "Sledge hammer" chips quad core out of two chips and those boogers were HOT!! There were no quad core CPUs at the time then of course not long after Intel released a quad core chip. It was fun while it lasted. Still have the chips and ASUS MOBO with the ECC ram as thats all it ran and expensive as hell in a Lian li cube case. Been tempted to fire it back up for giggles but will have to dig and see if I still have an AGP GPU laying around.


----------



## zervun

Section31 said:


> Would consider that for sure


I have two of the optimus res's (short ones). I have the Caselabs Tx10 so I was going to go with 1x heatkiller res/D5 next pump and 1x optimus res/pump on each side. This was a mistake because it is almost impossible to do fan curves in aquasuite with a next pump and a sata powered PWM pump. They show up as two different objects in aquasuite one being the next pump and the other just being regular PWM. I've never been able to get them to cooperate on curves.

This was my first adventure into aquasuite and man it is awesome but I went in new and didn't consider how valuable it would be having everything next/aquasuite. If optimus res's fit the D5 next it would be a non event.

As with all of their stuff the build quality is great and gorgeous but they are a bit of a mixed bag overall.

Price
Top clear acrylic piece by default didn't seem to really seal that great - I needed a port at the top which I should have ordered from the get go. I ended up getting the knurled delrin single port top which seems to seal much better but of course set me back some more money and isn't as blingy.
Can't fit a different D5 pump such as the Next
The default xylem they use has a Sata connector which makes it very tricky if you want to sleeve it - only a worry if you go down the path of sleeving everything.
After going full aquasuite having the Next pumps makes life so much easier

Mounting options are limited. 4 screw holes on the bottom - I wish they included a template for drilling holes. I had to be creative
Side mount option is just 2 screws which doesn't give me a lot of confidence and you can rule out mounting it to like an acrylic window due to vibration/cracking on two points

Not a huge fan of anything that has acrylic g1/4 connections - I have the optimus threadripper WB so not a big deal and never had an issue but I would have preferred the g1/4 connectors be in delrin and man I wish some of the res/pump combo housings would use copper/nickel for the ports but I've never seen one. Optimus acrylic is top notch though. Would have been kick ass if they made the base accept a Next D5 and extended the base to also incorporate the ports instead of them being in the acrylic.
I'm replacing the two Optimus res's with the next optitubes so I can have 2x next D5's on each side to make it much easier in aquasuite and they have a built in filter which is nice. I'll use the optimus res's in another system. I like the Optimus look much better than the Next stuff but I just can't get away from the ease of use of Next and aquasuite.


----------



## Section31

zervun said:


> I have two of the optimus res's (short ones). I have the Caselabs Tx10 so I was going to go with 1x heatkiller res/D5 next pump and 1x optimus res/pump on each side. This was a mistake because it is almost impossible to do fan curves in aquasuite with a next pump and a sata powered PWM pump. They show up as two different objects in aquasuite one being the next pump and the other just being regular PWM. I've never been able to get them to cooperate on curves.
> 
> This was my first adventure into aquasuite and man it is awesome but I went in new and didn't consider how valuable it would be having everything next/aquasuite. If optimus res's fit the D5 next it would be a non event.
> 
> As with all of their stuff the build quality is great and gorgeous but they are a bit of a mixed bag overall.
> 
> Price
> Top clear acrylic piece by default didn't seem to really seal that great - I needed a port at the top which I should have ordered from the get go. I ended up getting the knurled delrin single port top which seems to seal much better but of course set me back some more money and isn't as blingy.
> Can't fit a different D5 pump such as the Next
> The default xylem they use has a Sata connector which makes it very tricky if you want to sleeve it - only a worry if you go down the path of sleeving everything.
> After going full aquasuite having the Next pumps makes life so much easier
> 
> Mounting options are limited. 4 screw holes on the bottom - I wish they included a template for drilling holes. I had to be creative
> Side mount option is just 2 screws which doesn't give me a lot of confidence and you can rule out mounting it to like an acrylic window due to vibration/cracking on two points
> 
> Not a huge fan of anything that has acrylic g1/4 connections - I have the optimus threadripper WB so not a big deal and never had an issue but I would have preferred the g1/4 connectors be in delrin and man I wish some of the res/pump combo housings would use copper/nickel for the ports but I've never seen one. Optimus acrylic is top notch though. Would have been kick ass if they made the base accept a Next D5 and extended the base to also incorporate the ports instead of them being in the acrylic.
> I'm replacing the two Optimus res's with the next optitubes so I can have 2x next D5's on each side to make it much easier in aquasuite and they have a built in filter which is nice. I'll use the optimus res's in another system. I like the Optimus look much better than the Next stuff but I just can't get away from the ease of use of Next and aquasuite.


The aqua next system is amazing. That new flow meter of there has been really useful. I find that conductivity/water quality feature to be really useful


----------



## zervun

Section31 said:


> The aqua next system is amazing. That new flow meter of there has been really useful. I find that conductivity/water quality feature to be really useful


Ya the new flow meter is next on my list but hasn't been in stock anywhere cept directly through them and out of stock. I have the old flow meter which works good but it makes clicking noise which drives me nuts sometimes - faint but I want as much silence as possible. Known issue, suposidly the mounting direction can lead to clicking. Instead of fiddling with it just gonna wait until the new next one comes back in stock.


----------



## Avacado

zervun said:


> Ya the new flow meter is next on my list but hasn't been in stock anywhere cept directly through them and out of stock. I have the old flow meter which works good but it makes clicking noise which drives me nuts sometimes - faint but I want as much silence as possible. Known issue, suposidly the mounting direction can lead to clicking. Instead of fiddling with it just gonna wait until the new next one comes back in stock.


Last I checked ModMyMods is still taking pre-orders (er.. Back-Orders) for the Next Flow meter. I placed mine about a month ago, still waiting.









Aquacomputer G1/4 NEXT RGBpx Flow Sensor - High Flow (53293)


Flow measurement The flow rate is measured by a rotor / impeller that is driven by the coolant flowing through. The rotation speed is recorded without contact using a magnetic measuring system. The optimally calibrated bearing




modmymods.com


----------



## zervun

Avacado said:


> Last I checked ModMyMods is still taking pre-orders (er.. Back-Orders) for the Next Flow meter. I placed mine about a month ago, still waiting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer G1/4 NEXT RGBpx Flow Sensor - High Flow (53293)
> 
> 
> Flow measurement The flow rate is measured by a rotor / impeller that is driven by the coolant flowing through. The rotation speed is recorded without contact using a magnetic measuring system. The optimally calibrated bearing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> modmymods.com


Awesome!


----------



## mmmz

While you all wait for your blocks I have a stupid question: How many of these blocks do you think you can fit onto a motherboard? (Once the blocks are actually available to order) I am planning to watercool 3x FTW3. I have an X299 SAGE motherboard that is supposed to support up to quad GPUs, but looking at your pictures of the optimus block that thing is chonky and I'm not sure that even 3x will fit anymore.


----------



## dwolvin

They should knock the video card down to a slot or a slot and a half- they are skinnier than the air cooling they replace. But the cards are 'taller' in the dimension away from the motherboard, but that's only an issue for case clearance.


----------



## Kashtan

I take message about send to my my order #3035 - but I'm wondering - did the mounts and fasteners come with my coldplate? I wrote to the email - no response. I would appreciate your feedback here. Thanks.


----------



## JustinThyme

zervun said:


> I have two of the optimus res's (short ones). I have the Caselabs Tx10 so I was going to go with 1x heatkiller res/D5 next pump and 1x optimus res/pump on each side. This was a mistake because it is almost impossible to do fan curves in aquasuite with a next pump and a sata powered PWM pump. They show up as two different objects in aquasuite one being the next pump and the other just being regular PWM. I've never been able to get them to cooperate on curves.
> 
> This was my first adventure into aquasuite and man it is awesome but I went in new and didn't consider how valuable it would be having everything next/aquasuite. If optimus res's fit the D5 next it would be a non event.
> 
> As with all of their stuff the build quality is great and gorgeous but they are a bit of a mixed bag overall.
> 
> Price
> Top clear acrylic piece by default didn't seem to really seal that great - I needed a port at the top which I should have ordered from the get go. I ended up getting the knurled delrin single port top which seems to seal much better but of course set me back some more money and isn't as blingy.
> Can't fit a different D5 pump such as the Next
> The default xylem they use has a Sata connector which makes it very tricky if you want to sleeve it - only a worry if you go down the path of sleeving everything.
> After going full aquasuite having the Next pumps makes life so much easier
> 
> Mounting options are limited. 4 screw holes on the bottom - I wish they included a template for drilling holes. I had to be creative
> Side mount option is just 2 screws which doesn't give me a lot of confidence and you can rule out mounting it to like an acrylic window due to vibration/cracking on two points
> 
> Not a huge fan of anything that has acrylic g1/4 connections - I have the optimus threadripper WB so not a big deal and never had an issue but I would have preferred the g1/4 connectors be in delrin and man I wish some of the res/pump combo housings would use copper/nickel for the ports but I've never seen one. Optimus acrylic is top notch though. Would have been kick ass if they made the base accept a Next D5 and extended the base to also incorporate the ports instead of them being in the acrylic.
> I'm replacing the two Optimus res's with the next optitubes so I can have 2x next D5's on each side to make it much easier in aquasuite and they have a built in filter which is nice. I'll use the optimus res's in another system. I like the Optimus look much better than the Next stuff but I just can't get away from the ease of use of Next and aquasuite.


You can get them both to work on one created controller but you have to connect the D5 Next Via aquabus, not USB. Same with the OCTO or QUADRO fan controllers. You can connected them USB and set them up under each individual controller or connect via aquabus and you can do whatever on an individual controller. The software does have a learning curve as instructions are non existent. Best resource is actually their forum. You think parts is hard waiting until you spend several days writing code if you want an onscreen display. I did it once and saved that sucker. Have the entire aqua suite data folder also saved on my NAS so if I decide to do a clean install and reinstall aqua suite I can just navigate to the data folder, delete that one and replace it with my saved one and it’s right back how I left it, OSD and curves all saved.


----------



## zervun

JustinThyme said:


> You can get them both to work on one created controller but you have to connect the D5 Next Via aquabus, not USB. Same with the OCTO or QUADRO fan controllers. You can connected them USB and set them up under each individual controller or connect via aquabus and you can do whatever on an individual controller. The software does have a learning curve as instructions are non existent. Best resource is actually their forum. You think parts is hard waiting until you spend several days writing code if you want an onscreen display. I did it once and saved that sucker. Have the entire aqua suite data folder also saved on my NAS so if I decide to do a clean install and reinstall aqua suite I can just navigate to the data folder, delete that one and replace it with my saved one and it’s right back how I left it, OSD and curves all saved.


Thanks but isn't the issue I'm having. I have 1x D5 next pump, on aquabus, which is a "pump" under aquasuite, along with a bunch of other things on aquabus. The other optimus D5 is a PWM controlled pump and is basically a "fan" under aquasuite. When doing a "curve" or whatever, the Optimus D5 is on a completely different RPM curve as the Next D5. I can't get them to be on the same "RPM" curve with each other. Ie. I want them at both 3000rpm at a certain temperature, 4000rpm another temp, etc. The problem is if I configure the D5 next at 2500rpm, and the Optimus D5 at 2500 rpm, when temps increase they get out of sync - ie Next at 4krpm while optimus 3700 rpm.

I have read pretty much everything I can on their forums. The D5 next as a "pump" object does not behave as the same a D5 "PWM" RPM wise. I could of course have the D5 Next as not an object/aquabus, but as a PWM "fan" pump but then you lose the flow features, temp and so forth by not adding it as an aquabus object.

2x regular D5 pumps would be fine on PWM "fan"
2x Next D5 pumps would be fine as aquabus objects

Mixing the two you can't curve their rpm the same. They are both in aquasuite - 1x aquabus d5 next, 1 optimus D5 as a normal "PWM" fan. You cannot make a D5 as a "pump" anymore, it is just a PWM fan.

Note: I have an Aquaero 6 XT, Octo, Flowmeter and about 4 splitty 4/RGPX's chained off of that. Everything connected to aquabus Hubby7's and fans via splitty 9's (and the splitty 4's).

Everything reports in Aquasuite, it is just down to the fact that a D5 Next "Pump" object, is completely different than a D5 Xylem PWM as it can only be configured as a fan. The RPM curves are not the same.

I've got this at 100% - but the thing is the two pumps are drastically different. They are different "objects" within aquasuite. To get them to "match" at 4800ish RPM I had to put the Next DD5 at like 88% while I had to adjust the power curve of the Optimus D5 to match. The Optimus D5 is a "fan".


----------



## sultanofswing

zervun said:


> Thanks but isn't the issue I'm having. I have 1x D5 next pump, on aquabus, which is a "pump" under aquasuite, along with a bunch of other things on aquabus. The other optimus D5 is a PWM controlled pump and is basically a "fan" under aquasuite. When doing a "curve" or whatever, the Optimus D5 is on a completely different RPM curve as the Next D5. I can't get them to be on the same "RPM" curve with each other. Ie. I want them at both 3000rpm at a certain temperature, 4000rpm another temp, etc. The problem is if I configure the D5 next at 2500rpm, and the Optimus D5 at 2500 rpm, when temps increase they get out of sync - ie Next at 4krpm while optimus 3700 rpm.
> 
> I have read pretty much everything I can on their forums. The D5 next as a "pump" object does not behave as the same a D5 "PWM" RPM wise. I could of course have the D5 Next as not an object/aquabus, but as a PWM "fan" pump but then you lose the flow features, temp and so forth by not adding it as an aquabus object.
> 
> 2x regular D5 pumps would be fine on PWM "fan"
> 2x Next D5 pumps would be fine as aquabus objects
> 
> Mixing the two you can't curve their rpm the same. They are both in aquasuite - 1x aquabus d5 next, 1 optimus D5 as a normal "PWM" fan. You cannot make a D5 as a "pump" anymore, it is just a PWM fan.
> 
> Note: I have an Aquaero 6 XT, Octo, Flowmeter and about 4 splitty 4/RGPX's chained off of that. Everything connected to aquabus Hubby7's and fans via splitty 9's (and the splitty 4's).
> 
> Everything reports in Aquasuite, it is just down to the fact that a D5 Next "Pump" object, is completely different than a D5 Xylem PWM as it can only be configured as a fan. The RPM curves are not the same.
> 
> I've got this at 100% - but the thing is the two pumps are drastically different. They are different "objects" within aquasuite. To get them to "match" at 4800ish RPM I had to put the Next DD5 at like 88% while I had to adjust the power curve of the Optimus D5 to match. The Optimus D5 is a "fan".
> 
> View attachment 2473564


No practical need to run the pumps based on a curve, just set a static speed and leave them be.


----------



## zervun

sultanofswing said:


> No practical need to run the pumps based on a curve, just set a static speed and leave them be.


It's for noise reduction. I like having as silent of computer as possible as I do some light music production (haven't in a long time but that is the intent). The pumps are decently noisy at full RPM and I haven't been satisfied with them at lower RPMs cooling wise under load. I have them statically set at 4k something but I want them quieter. I also have quite a bit of water volume in the system due to my mora3 and black ice 560. I like keeping the pumps at around 2000 - 2500rpm at idle but to keep the system under 60c under full load while gaming I have to ramp them up a bit if I want to keep my fans at minimum rpm.

I've got a Titan V and a threadripper both overclocked which put out quite a bit of heat. I like running it at really minimal fans/pump speeds at idle for noise.


----------



## JustinThyme

zervun said:


> Thanks but isn't the issue I'm having. I have 1x D5 next pump, on aquabus, which is a "pump" under aquasuite, along with a bunch of other things on aquabus. The other optimus D5 is a PWM controlled pump and is basically a "fan" under aquasuite. When doing a "curve" or whatever, the Optimus D5 is on a completely different RPM curve as the Next D5. I can't get them to be on the same "RPM" curve with each other. Ie. I want them at both 3000rpm at a certain temperature, 4000rpm another temp, etc. The problem is if I configure the D5 next at 2500rpm, and the Optimus D5 at 2500 rpm, when temps increase they get out of sync - ie Next at 4krpm while optimus 3700 rpm.
> 
> I have read pretty much everything I can on their forums. The D5 next as a "pump" object does not behave as the same a D5 "PWM" RPM wise. I could of course have the D5 Next as not an object/aquabus, but as a PWM "fan" pump but then you lose the flow features, temp and so forth by not adding it as an aquabus object.
> 
> 2x regular D5 pumps would be fine on PWM "fan"
> 2x Next D5 pumps would be fine as aquabus objects
> 
> Mixing the two you can't curve their rpm the same. They are both in aquasuite - 1x aquabus d5 next, 1 optimus D5 as a normal "PWM" fan. You cannot make a D5 as a "pump" anymore, it is just a PWM fan.
> 
> Note: I have an Aquaero 6 XT, Octo, Flowmeter and about 4 splitty 4/RGPX's chained off of that. Everything connected to aquabus Hubby7's and fans via splitty 9's (and the splitty 4's).
> 
> Everything reports in Aquasuite, it is just down to the fact that a D5 Next "Pump" object, is completely different than a D5 Xylem PWM as it can only be configured as a fan. The RPM curves are not the same.
> 
> I've got this at 100% - but the thing is the two pumps are drastically different. They are different "objects" within aquasuite. To get them to "match" at 4800ish RPM I had to put the Next DD5 at like 88% while I had to adjust the power curve of the Optimus D5 to match. The Optimus D5 is a "fan".
> 
> View attachment 2473564


Yeah the other D5 will show up as a fan. I’m thinking it may be more the different characteristics of the pumps own PWM controllers than aqua suite. I’d never heard of Xylem until now. I’m running the next and an octo 4 for my other two pumps and put them on the same software curve on the output referencing a digital aquabus liquid temp sensor. One thing I did do on purpose was for each of the “Fan” pumps was set a different max power. This is intentional to offset all 3 pumps for acoustical noise cancellation. Takes some trial and error but I have them dialed in and on the same curve all being on aquabus be it the D5next or the two primochill enhanced on the OCTO 4 (they work well for me over many other brands) They are all off slightly and it works well for keeping them quiet by noise cancellation but within 200 RPMs top to bottom. If I leave their characteristics all at 100% max power on their ranges then they are all within 50 RPMs of each other which at close to 5000 RPMs max is 1%. If they don’t like playing we’ll together on the same curve controller you can always set up two. Again my guess isn’t the software, it’s the individual pumps PWM controller. All the aquaero does is change the duty cycle on the output. How the pumps internal controller interprets that is another story. My curve is set 60% to 100% with min temp at 28C and max at 32C. Fans have the same temp scale but the PWM is 20% min and 100% max with the exception of two 1600 rpm 140 case fans that sound like a 747 at full throttle when at max. Drop it a bit and they are tolerable. Those two are set to 70% max. They flat move some air but if I wanted all that noise I’d go back to a copper heat sink with a 90mm Vantec Tornado that will make the neighbors complain but those 90 mm fans will blow your hair back from 6 feet away LOL.
Combing through the forum a a good start but they actually have reps that monitor the forum so if you run into something that’s kicking you in the nuts you can post up and usually within 24 hours you will have some user replies and a manufacturer rep reply. Not like ASUS that sponsors a forum and no one with ASUS monitors it. Funny at times to see people post in there then fly off the handle at ASUS of how crappy their support is (which it actually is) because they didn’t answer until someone has to break their heart and inform them it’s a user self help forum. Every now and then you will get a surprise appearance from Elmor or Shamino and Raja was about the most active while he was with ASUS but also the most arrogant. Saw one than one very active thread just cease to get any further posts following his post, may as well have just clicked the close thread button 

anyhow the aquaero forum is pretty good about it with actual reps on their every day.


----------



## zervun

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah the other D5 will show up as a fan. I’m thinking it may be more the different characteristics of the pumps own PWM controllers than aqua suite. I’d never heard of Xylem until now. I’m running the next and an octo 4 for my other two pumps and put them on the same software curve on the output referencing a digital aquabus liquid temp sensor. One thing I did do on purpose was for each of the “Fan” pumps was set a different max power. This is intentional to offset all 3 pumps for acoustical noise cancellation. Takes some trial and error but I have them dialed in and on the same curve all being on aquabus be it the D5next or the two primochill enhanced on the OCTO 4 (they work well for me over many other brands) They are all off slightly and it works well for keeping them quiet by noise cancellation but within 200 RPMs top to bottom. If I leave their characteristics all at 100% max power on their ranges then they are all within 50 RPMs of each other which at close to 5000 RPMs max is 1%. If they don’t like playing we’ll together on the same curve controller you can always set up two. Again my guess isn’t the software, it’s the individual pumps PWM controller. All the aquaero does is change the duty cycle on the output. How the pumps internal controller interprets that is another story. My curve is set 60% to 100% with min temp at 28C and max at 32C. Fans have the same temp scale but the PWM is 20% min and 100% max with the exception of two 1600 rpm 140 case fans that sound like a 747 at full throttle when at max. Drop it a bit and they are tolerable. Those two are set to 70% max. They flat move some air but if I wanted all that noise I’d go back to a copper heat sink with a 90mm Vantec Tornado that will make the neighbors complain but those 90 mm fans will blow your hair back from 6 feet away LOL.
> Combing through the forum a a good start but they actually have reps that monitor the forum so if you run into something that’s kicking you in the nuts you can post up and usually within 24 hours you will have some user replies and a manufacturer rep reply. Not like ASUS that sponsors a forum and no one with ASUS monitors it. Funny at times to see people post in there then fly off the handle at ASUS of how crappy their support is (which it actually is) because they didn’t answer until someone has to break their heart and inform them it’s a user self help forum. Every now and then you will get a surprise appearance from Elmor or Shamino and Raja was about the most active while he was with ASUS but also the most arrogant. Saw one than one very active thread just cease to get any further posts following his post, may as well have just clicked the close thread button
> 
> anyhow the aquaero forum is pretty good about it with actual reps on their every day.


Great info and thanks - I didn't think about the acoustical noise cancellation. I agree 100% that is is probably the differences in the pumps and not really aqua suite. I have more tweaking to go and I got them "closer" but as they scale the difference of course gets bigger. I did opt to use the optimus pump/res(s) in another system (once I go through the effort and fab my aluminum pump mount place) and go with 2x next d5's each side for simplicity (I also like the built in filters on the optitubes) but it is probably only a matter of a time before I go with more than 2 pumps.

It hasn't been really critical as I got them both dialed in at like 4k and it's fairly fine but I'd like to get them more tuned long term. I will try working with some of your settings and probably at some point post to the aquacomputer forums. As you said they seem to chime in quite frequently I've just been lazy.

I'm trying to not ramp up my fans as much as possible. I've got 8x 200mm noctuas on my Mora-3 which I'm quite happy with at their minimum rpm.

I opted for the corsair 140mm mag levs for everything else (have 8x on the 560 black ice rad and a bunch throughout the system and some 120MLs) because noctua didn't have any black fans in the size at the time and thought meh the led's might be kind of cool. In hindsight the led stuff was somewhat a waste of time and the sheer number of rat nest wires I don't think was worth it. I have like 5x Splitty4 RGBpx's to run all the damn led fans chained off the Octo. The corsair fans are noiser at their min RPM than the 140mm noctuas. I should have checked the min speeds before I bought them, and their sticker wobble isn't ideal.

Right now with the 140MLs at their min RPM and the 200mm's at their min RPM I hit about 60c on the dot under OCCT max load with the pumps at 4kish which isn't too bad.

My wife call's the Tx10 beast the "money furnace" as it puts out about the same heat as an old iron furnace and has probably cost me as much as just heating it burning dollar bills to burn. Next on my list is to put a vent to the outside that sucks air from the top. I can't imagine how much heat it is going to put out with a second system in it.


----------



## straha20

Received my batch 1 FTW 3 block. Going to try and get my build done over this coming weekend.

It is definitely a quality product, as all of Optimus' products are. I know people have mentioned it being heavy, so I was expecting some heft, but was not expecting this thing to be just how heavy it actually is. Glad I am vertically mounting it.

Speaking of vertically mounting, it's a shame the name on the backplate will be upside down. Wish there was a way to fix that.


----------



## WayWayUp

yea i noticed that when i was installing but in the end it's pointless as you cant see the name regardless when you vertically mount


----------



## sakete

straha20 said:


> Received my batch 1 FTW 3 block. Going to try and get my build done over this coming weekend.
> 
> It is definitely a quality product, as all of Optimus' products are. I know people have mentioned it being heavy, so I was expecting some heft, but was not expecting this thing to be just how heavy it actually is. Glad I am vertically mounting it.
> 
> Speaking of vertically mounting, it's a shame the name on the backplate will be upside down. Wish there was a way to fix that.


Well, you can't see the name anyway when vertical mounting, right?


----------



## straha20

WayWayUp said:


> yea i noticed that when i was installing but in the end it's pointless as you cant see the name regardless when you vertically mount


Well, I hand built my case, so it is a custom case, and you can very nicely see the back plate.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Any news on batch 2 ? First batch finished? 31 october order is too late? Any info please? @Optimus WC


----------



## gengar

Huseyinbaykal said:


> Any news on batch 2 ? First batch finished? 31 october order is too late? Any info please? @Optimus WC


As reported earlier in this thread, @straha20 was the last order in batch 1.


----------



## Mroberts95

If anybody wants a copper block LMK.

I would be willing to trade my Copper block for a Nickel block, Not the backplate as mine isnt anodized etc.

If you are interested LMK.


----------



## straha20

Mroberts95 said:


> If anybody wants a copper block LMK.
> 
> I would be willing to trade my Copper block for a Nickel block, Not the backplate as mine isnt anodized etc.
> 
> If you are interested LMK.


I would have taken you up on that before I got my nickel block in hand, but man, not now. This block is really pretty.


----------



## Mroberts95

straha20 said:


> I would have taken you up on that before I got my nickel block in hand, but man, not now. This block is really pretty.


I myself didnt want to wait for nickel at the time but now I see them im like Damn.


----------



## evilbob2200

Mroberts95 said:


> I myself didnt want to wait for nickel at the time but now I see them im like Damn.


im batch two i might be interested in a trade of nickel for copper


----------



## Johnny_Utah

Still anxious to hear how batch 2 is coming. Thank you @Optimus WC


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Johnny_Utah said:


> Still anxious to hear how batch 2 is coming. Thank you @Optimus WC


Also interested in this @Optimus WC


----------



## Recipe7

I installed my EK FTW3 block today. Water and gpu temp delta is 13 degrees for my setup. Wish I had the Optimus Block instead 😛


----------



## jincuteguy

Anyone knows any of the Optimus CPU blocks for INtel in stock?


----------



## Raiden2a

Performance-pcs.com has intel Foundations in stock but not signature V2s.


----------



## Section31

Recipe7 said:


> I installed my EK FTW3 block today. Water and gpu temp delta is 13 degrees for my setup. Wish I had the Optimus Block instead 😛


At least you have an block. i expect things to take 2-3months before even heatkiller/aquacomputer comes out with gpu block. We all just have to be patient at this point.


----------



## CluckyTaco

Raiden2a said:


> Performance-pcs.com has intel Foundations in stock but not signature V2s.


Thanks for the tip. However the black with nickel version is not in stock so back to the waiting game for me.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Bitspower is making a block as well. Might have to go with that one at this point. Not sure.

Got quite the selection.

EK
Aquacomputer
Bitspower
Heatkiller
Bykski
Barrow (rumors they're working on one)
Alphacool (I think)
Optimus


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Bitspower is making a block as well. Might have to go with that one at this point. Not sure.
> 
> Got quite the selection.
> 
> EK
> Aquacomputer
> Bitspower
> Heatkiller
> Bykski
> Barrow (rumors they're working on one)
> Alphacool (I think)
> Optimus


It does. For me, its Optimus followed by Heatkiller/Aquacomputer


----------



## Palito93

Anyone from batch 2 got a notification yet? 

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## dan5ro

Palito93 said:


> Anyone from batch 2 got a notification yet?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Batch 2 order 2803 here waiting as well. Reached out via their webpage a couple of times with no response (seems to be typical case). Was also curious if they had any torque spec recommendations for their screws during install although it probably doesn't really matter too much.


----------



## Palito93

dan5ro said:


> Batch 2 order 2803 here waiting as well. Reached out via their webpage a couple of times with no response (seems to be typical case). Was also curious if they had any torque spec recommendations for their screws during install although it probably doesn't really matter too much.


Im ~50 orders after you, can you keep us updated once you get a notification?

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## dan5ro

Palito93 said:


> Im ~50 orders after you, can you keep us updated once you get a notification?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Sure, I'll update once I get a shipping e-mail from Optimus for my order (hopefully sooner than later).


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

2866 here. I think I am at the end of batch 2 😔


----------



## Johnny_Utah

Huseyinbaykal said:


> 2866 here. I think I am at the end of batch 2 😔


2887 here...I think the 3k's are the end of batch 2 but not sure


----------



## JustinThyme

Recipe7 said:


> I installed my EK FTW3 block today. Water and gpu temp delta is 13 degrees for my setup. Wish I had the Optimus Block instead 😛


13X delta isn’t bad. As long as you can get it under 15 it’s a good block. 10 is about as good as it gets.


----------



## evilbob2200

dan5ro said:


> Batch 2 order 2803 here waiting as well. Reached out via their webpage a couple of times with no response (seems to be typical case). Was also curious if they had any torque spec recommendations for their screws during install although it probably doesn't really matter too much.


im 2814 so should be soon after you. I also live like 20 mins from chicago so hopefully i get it extra fast... hell id offer to just pick it up if i could.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

2839 here, seems like most of the batch 2 orders are 28xx-29xx.


----------



## Section31

Hopeful third batch opens up soon


----------



## sakete

All I can say to everyone in batch 2 is, sit back and relax, as it's going to be a loooooong ride


----------



## Eulerian

Personally: Based on available info and how batch 1 unfolded, my guess is that tail end of batch 2 will end sometime in the spring, mid-to-late March.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Eulerian said:


> Personally: Based on available info and how batch 1 unfolded, my guess is that tail end of batch 2 will end sometime in the spring, mid-to-late March.


If that is the case Optimus needs to make that clear. I'll buy an ek block to hold me over until it ships as I'm about done waiting once we get into Feb.


----------



## bryce2113

Edge0fsanity said:


> 2839 here, seems like most of the batch 2 orders are 28xx-29xx.


I'm a few numbers before 2800 and I know someone a few numbers ahead of me. We both ordered pretty much as soon as Batch 2 went live. Still no shipment notification for either of us.......


----------



## Palito93

Edge0fsanity said:


> If that is the case Optimus needs to make that clear. I'll buy an ek block to hold me over until it ships as I'm about done waiting once we get into Feb.


I think they're sold out aswell. I wanted to cancel the Optimus block and get the EK block, but apparently the ETA is april?


Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawnb99

Edge0fsanity said:


> If that is the case Optimus needs to make that clear. I'll buy an ek block to hold me over until it ships as I'm about done waiting once we get into Feb.


It’s not the case, it’s one person making an assumption. EK is just as delayed if not even more.


----------



## Section31

Edge0fsanity said:


> If that is the case Optimus needs to make that clear. I'll buy an ek block to hold me over until it ships as I'm about done waiting once we get into Feb.


Everything is delayed nowadays. Wild West Market.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Palito93 said:


> I think they're sold out aswell. I wanted to cancel the Optimus block and get the EK block, but apparently the ETA is april?
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Wow, figured they would have a steady supply


----------



## Shawnb99

Edge0fsanity said:


> Wow, figured they would have a steady supply


What made you think that?


----------



## JustinThyme

Still waiting to see data on Optimus other than aesthetics. I run Heat Killer and they work well and look good. EK GPU blocks lately have just been butt ugly IMO. The only thing EK has that is a top contender is the magnitude CPU block.


----------



## KedarWolf

I love the look of this to go with my new motherboard but I haven't pulled the trigger on the EKWB AIO. It's NOT RGB and I think looks awesome. It performs decent as well.

Edit: Oh wait, the hoses into the block are positioned terribly. I think it would mess with my RAM fan. 










Here the Unify-X motherboard I'd pair it with. I'm NOT an RGB fan.


----------



## JustinThyme

I’m not a fan of AIOs. Plastic fittings that get in the way, no way to make a clean run of the tubes and just not in the same realm of performance as a custom loop. Yeah you spend some money on custom loops the first time. As long as you don’t buy cheap junk the fittings and rads pretty much last forever and how it look is how you make it. The only advantage to be had over a good air cooler is it doesn’t take up a bunch of space in the middle of your board.


----------



## Res

I am batch 2 and I received my shipment notification today. I ordered less than 5 minutes after batch 2 opened up and my order number was in the 2790s.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, we're on track to get the majority of batch 2 out this month, the timing depends on nickel plating/anodizing/etc. We've had a few b-stock nickel plating in the most recent batches, but otherwise the blocks are looking awesome. 

Also, interesting performance metric from a user: the Optimus block on the FTW is 22c lower than the Kingpin with 360 AIO.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're on track to get the majority of batch 2 out this month, the timing depends on nickel plating/anodizing/etc. We've had a few b-stock nickel plating in the most recent batches, but otherwise the blocks are looking awesome.
> 
> Also, interesting performance metric from a user: the Optimus block on the FTW is 22c lower than the Kingpin with 360 AIO.


keep us informed on batch 3. Also i sent an mail to you guys regarding my am4 block


----------



## Raiden2a

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're on track to get the majority of batch 2 out this month, the timing depends on nickel plating/anodizing/etc. We've had a few b-stock nickel plating in the most recent batches, but otherwise the blocks are looking awesome.


Dang. So those in the OP3000+ will be Feb?


----------



## bryce2113

Res said:


> I am batch 2 and I received my shipment notification today. I ordered less than 5 minutes after batch 2 opened up and my order number was in the 2790s.


You must be only a couple ahead of me. I’m late 2790s.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Also, interesting performance metric from a user: the Optimus block on the FTW is 22c lower than the Kingpin with 360 AIO.


It would be even more interesting to compare it to a KPE block. So HURRY UP!!! Well not too fast, don't have the card yet...


----------



## Optimus WC

Raiden2a said:


> Dang. So those in the OP3000+ will be Feb?


That shouldn't be the case, a handful will slip into Feb depending on plating time. The rest of the month will see lots of blocks shipping daily.


----------



## CluckyTaco

Optimus WC said:


> That shouldn't be the case, a handful will slip into Feb depending on plating time. The rest of the month will see lots of blocks shipping daily.


Does this include the cpu blocks as well? I missed the last time those were available and there is no option for notifications.


----------



## evilbob2200

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're on track to get the majority of batch 2 out this month, the timing depends on nickel plating/anodizing/etc. We've had a few b-stock nickel plating in the most recent batches, but otherwise the blocks are looking awesome.
> 
> Also, interesting performance metric from a user: the Optimus block on the FTW is 22c lower than the Kingpin with 360 AIO.


lol looks like ill have my block before my card lol evga's step up queue is moving at a snail pace


----------



## JustinThyme

Check retailers for CPU Blocks. PPCs has some foundations and fittings in. No signature blocks. I ordered up a foundation just because I’m stupid to test it’s performance against a signature V2. I’ve already extensively tested the Signature V2 and the EK magnitude in both solid and acrylic tops. Figured I may as well round it out. One thing I can tell you is the signature V2 while a nice chunk of metal is better suited for smaller dies out of the box like the 9900K. I found contact in a lateral band across the middle of the block until pulling the Oring out. The way the Magnitude cold plate is finished on a lathe gives it a conical shape with inward bow and the ability to use a flat plate or thicker jet plate to increase the bow. The Magic trick is finding what block in which configuration works best for your chip or do like some and just get a side grinder and get busy. Sure do miss the days where there wasn’t an IHS and everything was flat with the PCB on the chips being able to support the pressure of a cooler mounted direct die as everything was direct die. I’d love to see manufacturers just make an all in one MOBO/chip/block that actually worked. How nice would that be? Just connected the hoses and know the best possible cooling solution and mount was already there.


----------



## jincuteguy

So anyone knows if they introduced any new PC Cases from CES 2021 that works well with Custom loops?


----------



## JustinThyme

jincuteguy said:


> So anyone knows if they introduced any new PC Cases from CES 2021 that works well with Custom loops?


Pretty much any case will work with a MO-RA3.


----------



## dwolvin

I wonder if anyone has rigged a Mo-Ra in place of the glass on a P3 or P5...


----------



## asdf893

dwolvin said:


> I wonder if anyone has rigged a Mo-Ra in place of the glass on a P3 or P5...


MORA on the front, blocking the view?


----------



## dwolvin

Or top, if the case is laying flat.


----------



## originxt

JustinThyme said:


> Sure do miss the days where there wasn’t an IHS and everything was flat with the PCB on the chips being able to support the pressure of a cooler mounted direct die as everything was direct die. I’d love to see manufacturers just make an all in one MOBO/chip/block that actually worked. How nice would that be? Just connected the hoses and know the best possible cooling solution and mount was already there.


Based on the amount of people I see ****ing up removing AMD chips from their mobos, I wouldn't hold my breath on another exposed die coming to market. It's cringe inducing and painful but they're our fellow builders :|. While exposed die and pin destruction are 2 different things, I can only imagine the amount of crying from posts of cracked dies if they ever returned.


----------



## JustinThyme

There were exposed dies for a VERY long time. It’s when the made the PCB so thin that it took the IHS to re-enforce it that a problem arose. As for people borking a chip removing it from or putting it into a MOBO, there are some folks that just should hire someone else to do it. I’m amazed at the amount of the younger crowd that can’t change a freakin care tire!! When I was a young man there was no such thing as a PC. We spent out weekends yanking car engines to put 202 heads on a small block Chevy or installing 6:71 super chargers. Want to get 90% of millennials off the road? Get rid of automatic transmissions.


----------



## JustinThyme

asdf893 said:


> MORA on the front, blocking the view?


They come with a stand-off kit (can mount it to anything) or you can buy an optional wall mount. Mine just has feet with very long hoses so I can put it in the window in the winter time sucking cold air in.


----------



## Section31

jincuteguy said:


> So anyone knows if they introduced any new PC Cases from CES 2021 that works well with Custom loops?


Ekwb 011d pedestal. Basically an caselabs pedestal for 011 dynamic with integrated reservoir/pump.









CES 2021: EKWB announces liquid-cooled workstations, a concept case and more - KitGuru


EKWB has released a number of new products for CES 2021. Besides new fittings, liquid-cooled worksta




www.kitguru.net


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Ekwb 011d pedestal. Basically an caselabs pedestal for 011 dynamic with integrated reservoir/pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CES 2021: EKWB announces liquid-cooled workstations, a concept case and more - KitGuru
> 
> 
> EKWB has released a number of new products for CES 2021. Besides new fittings, liquid-cooled worksta
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.kitguru.net



We keep getting crap Caselabs knockoffs from crappy companies. We need a quality company to steal a design or two.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> We keep getting crap Caselabs knockoffs from crappy companies. We need a quality company to steal a design or two.


ideally but ocn users here need to pool our resources together and start an true successor


----------



## Shawnb99

I want a TH10 with a pedestal clone but horizontal MB


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I want a TH10 with a pedestal clone but horizontal MB


Me too


----------



## FU#OPMadeUSA

I was about an hour into batch 2, getting my block delivered tomorrow. Finally, I can’t wait. Can anyone share their experience on the install? Also does the block take 2 slots? Thanks you


----------



## whaleboy_4096

FU#OPMadeUSA said:


> I was about an hour into batch 2, getting my block delivered tomorrow. Finally, I can’t wait. Can anyone share their experience on the install? Also does the block take 2 slots? Thanks you


That's great, I am at the end of batch 2, so I would be surprised if I see it before the end of the month. Can you do me a favor and measure the thickness of the thermal pads? Thanks


----------



## originxt

FU#OPMadeUSA said:


> I was about an hour into batch 2, getting my block delivered tomorrow. Finally, I can’t wait. Can anyone share their experience on the install? Also does the block take 2 slots? Thanks you


Its like a normal gpu water block, 1 slot.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> We keep getting crap Caselabs knockoffs from crappy companies. We need a quality company to steal a design or two.


Problem is there is only one place that steals IP on a regular basis.


----------



## NBrock

The reason Caselabs and quality stuff started disappearing is because too many people aren't willing to pay for quality stuff...they want it as cheap as possible...then complain when the quality isn't there or there are no quality alternatives. Not saying you guys in this thread are guilty of this lol...just the masses in general.


----------



## JustinThyme

NBrock said:


> The reason Caselabs and quality stuff started disappearing is because too many people aren't willing to pay for quality stuff...they want it as cheap as possible...then complain when the quality isn't there or there are no quality alternatives. Not saying you guys in this thread are guilty of this lol...just the masses in general.


Case labs on their way to bankruptcy court blamed Trump for the import tariffs on China where they were buying their steel for putting them belly up. Yeah it’s a niche market in the first place as everyone prefers to buy a O11D made in China with the same tariffs. That’s one case I am really disgusted with seeing the same builds over and over and over and over again with very little originality. 90% or greater are built with the EK Distro in them blocking off a perfectly good spot for a 360 rad.

I don’t mind paying a premium for a premium product but you are right with the demographics of here and now. Everyone wants a top performance rig for $500 or less. I spent $900 on my freakin case, enthoo elite, but only because what I was going to buy went into history with case labs.
The other end of case labs is it was very difficult to get exactly what you wanted on round one. Sure they had plenty of directions to go but trying to figure out what you needed was just about impossible. You order just a case and that is what you would get, a shell and nothing else. I think they used to have some “as built ready to go that never met what I was after. By the time I figured it out it was too late.
Had a Corsair 900D before this one and intend on doing another build in it.


----------



## evilbob2200

FU#OPMadeUSA said:


> I was about an hour into batch 2, getting my block delivered tomorrow. Finally, I can’t wait. Can anyone share their experience on the install? Also does the block take 2 slots? Thanks you


well hopefully that means mine ships soon because I bought mine like 80 mins after they posted on twitter


----------



## NBrock

I have a question. Currently using an EK Velocity block I had from when I had my 9900k. I replaced that system with a 10980xe. I was wondering how much improvement I might see switching blocks to one of the Optimus blocks. Anyone have experience with making that switch?


----------



## JustinThyme

NBrock said:


> I have a question. Currently using an EK Velocity block I had from when I had my 9900k. I replaced that system with a 10980xe. I was wondering how much improvement I might see switching blocks to one of the Optimus blocks. Anyone have experience with making that switch?


Night and day. Optimus or EK Magnitude will give you huge improvements over a velocity block. Even better than a Heat Killer IV that was better than a velocity. You will see a minimum of a 5C drop if not more. Im running at 4.8 GHz all cores and with non AVX my max core is low to mid 70s, AVX workload is high 70s. Your loop has a good bit to do with it as well. I keep my liquid temp under 30C.


----------



## RichKnecht

3-4C at best under load in my case. I went from an EK Supremacy Evo RGB to Optimus Sig V2. Nice CPU block, but don't look for any miracles.


----------



## fireedo

I replaced months ago my EK supremacy with optimus block on my 10980xe and the performance diff is rather large, I got 8-10c diff depend on each cores.
Strangely the good things not happen with my Ryzen 5950x, using optimus block switched from EK velocity I cant tell the difference (maybe just 2-3c), dunno what's wrong with my block


----------



## Endgame124

JustinThyme said:


> Want to get 90% of millennials off the road? Get rid of automatic transmissions.


A car that changes gears? How very archaic! Say hello to the 21st century where you don’t need silly things like a transmission, oil changes, and so on!

on topic, anyone have full load temps for a 5950 under Optimus foundation? I’m getting low to mid 70s with PBO enabled and have so few data points I can’t tell if I have a bad Mount.


----------



## Section31

Endgame124 said:


> A car that changes gears? How very archaic! Say hello to the 21st century where you don’t need silly things like a transmission, oil changes, and so on!
> 
> on topic, anyone have full load temps for a 5950 under Optimus foundation? I’m getting low to mid 70s with PBO enabled and have so few data points I can’t tell if I have a bad Mount.


I read that it's about 10-15degrees above equivalent 3000 series GPU. Your result seems pretty common.


----------



## Bart

Endgame124 said:


> A car that changes gears? How very archaic! Say hello to the 21st century where you don’t need silly things like a transmission, oil changes, and so on!
> 
> on topic, anyone have full load temps for a 5950 under Optimus foundation? I’m getting low to mid 70s with PBO enabled and have so few data points I can’t tell if I have a bad Mount.


I'm getting about the same temps. If you do silly things in the BIOS, it can get into the 80s. These are just hot chips, no doubt about it.


----------



## bryce2113

FU#OPMadeUSA said:


> I was about an hour into batch 2, getting my block delivered tomorrow. Finally, I can’t wait. Can anyone share their experience on the install? Also does the block take 2 slots? Thanks you


Really!? I was within 20-30 minutes of it going live and haven’t gotten anything. No shipment notification or anything. I’m mid 2790s for an order number.What was your order time?


----------



## Driosenth

Here is the PV curve for the Foundation AM4 for distilled water at 25 °C.


----------



## Palito93

bryce2113 said:


> Really!? I was within 20-30 minutes of it going live and haven’t gotten anything. No shipment notification or anything. I’m mid 2790s for an order number.What was your order time?


Did you choose copper or nickel?
Because they said a couple of times already that copper will take longer

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## JustinThyme

Depends on what you want. What I know is the HK IV pro beat my supremacy by 5C and the Optimus and Magnitude beat the HK by 3C.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I read that it's about 10-15degrees above equivalent 3000 series GPU. Your result seems pretty common.


Yeah go to some of the other places and I know you wil get a good laugh at some of the younger people that want a high performing rig for $500 and driving their grandmas hand me down VW bug. I venture in sometimes but mostly steer clear as just like my 19YO son they still haven't figured out they dont know everything yet. Im not far from 60 and still dont know everything. Sometimes, but not very often, I learn something from a younger upcoming buck but thats a rarity. You can always tell when they concede as the Reponses turn to insults instead of a debate with something to back it up. Most of them think the highest performing cooling solution is an NZXT Kraken because it look cool. LOL Put that POS on a 10980XE.....double LOL


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah go to some of the other places and I know you wil get a good laugh at some of the younger people that want a high performing rig for $500 and driving their grandmas hand me down VW bug. I venture in sometimes but mostly steer clear as just like my 19YO son they still haven't figured out they dont know everything yet. Im not far from 60 and still dont know everything. Sometimes, but not very often, I learn something from a younger upcoming buck but thats a rarity. You can always tell when they concede as the Reponses turn to insults instead of a debate with something to back it up. Most of them think the highest performing cooling solution is an NZXT Kraken because it look cool. LOL Put that POS on a 10980XE.....double LOL


I do. Half of reddit ppl jump into watercooling and they don’t know what they are getting into. Othertimes you get the why do you go overkill response. 

Nothing wrong with that opinion and totally valid points but there are enuthiast who are on the overkill side and you at somepoint you got to accept the decision they make. They spend there money how they want.

People have become so opinionated they can’t really see that its ok to have different opinion as long as you stay civil and respect others.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I do. Half of reddit ppl jump into watercooling and they don’t know what they are getting into. Othertimes you get the why do you go overkill response.
> 
> Nothing wrong with that opinion and totally valid points but there are enuthiast who are on the overkill side and you at somepoint you got to accept the decision they make. They spend there money how they want.
> 
> People have become so opinionated they can’t really see that its ok to have different opinion as long as you stay civil and respect others.


Exactly, well said
I dont entertain any conversation once they turn to insults. I realize a lot are on a budget but I still try to steer them to custom loops. You can start small and build up with it. with an AIO, thats what you get. So long as you don't buy cheap fittings and rads they last forever with maintenance then you get the Maintenance? you dont have to do that with an AIO which is right. You just run it until its broke and buy another.


----------



## Shawnb99

I swear I’m cursed. 6 weeks for my distro plates to arrive and both are broken and can’t be used. 😡


----------



## rayuma

Anyone have a FTW3 block they're looking to sell?


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> I swear I’m cursed. 6 weeks for my distro plates to arrive and both are broken and can’t be used. 😡


That’s about enough to chap your a$$. 
I tried one Distro and it actually sucked. Made my pipe routing even worse then it started seeping around the gasket about a month later. They wouldn’t take it back and manufacturer won’t answer the phone messages or emails. Figured that was a sign I’m not meant to use a Distro.


----------



## bryce2113

Palito93 said:


> Did you choose copper or nickel?
> Because they said a couple of times already that copper will take longer
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Nickel........


----------



## zervun

JustinThyme said:


> Case labs on their way to bankruptcy court blamed Trump for the import tariffs on China where they were buying their steel for putting them belly up. Yeah it’s a niche market in the first place as everyone prefers to buy a O11D made in China with the same tariffs. That’s one case I am really disgusted with seeing the same builds over and over and over and over again with very little originality. 90% or greater are built with the EK Distro in them blocking off a perfectly good spot for a 360 rad.
> 
> I don’t mind paying a premium for a premium product but you are right with the demographics of here and now. Everyone wants a top performance rig for $500 or less. I spent $900 on my freakin case, enthoo elite, but only because what I was going to buy went into history with case labs.
> The other end of case labs is it was very difficult to get exactly what you wanted on round one. Sure they had plenty of directions to go but trying to figure out what you needed was just about impossible. You order just a case and that is what you would get, a shell and nothing else. I think they used to have some “as built ready to go that never met what I was after. By the time I figured it out it was too late.
> Had a Corsair 900D before this one and intend on doing another build in it.


The import tariffs were such a load of bs, nobody bought that crap. Caselabs mismanaged themselves into death and wanted an exit. They could have hiked prices 50%+ and people would have still bought them and still they get resold used at ridiculous prices which are if not twice the new price in some cases. Their website was complete **** to figure out what you needed or wanted as well.

I'm still miffed at them and I got my case. I probably got one of the last TX10s in existence and unfortunately, like you said although I had some add-ons was far from what I needed or knew I wanted. They went under shortly after I got my shipping notification. They missed my radiator mount (which I ended up not using) and was on the final production run to just get that piece which arrived months later. I was lucky and got some more parts before they all went OOS so it's now fab land for me.

My gut feeling was that the owners just wanted an exit for whatever reason. I think they did spread themselves too thin on many different types of cases with not as many matching parts which were cutting profits down.

They should have stayed focused on the cases "we tend" to gravitate towards, larger, watercooling friendlyness, with interchangeable parts. Ironically if they stayed in the game they could probably be making a killing now.

I think many of us have no issue dropping $1k+ on a "lifetime" case considering the ridiculous amount of money we spend on watercooling. Would be more than happy to spend oodles of money on "mods" for those cases over time as long as they kept printing them.

What I wouldn't give to have another Tx10 with some bizarre layout where I could have two horizontal mobos in some crazy layout and or more parts for it. CNC route is about all I can do in the future.


----------



## JustinThyme

Yeah I never bought the steel story either. Too many sources. Thyssen out of Germany has many places in the US. Steel shows up in massive rolls and the slit it and shear it to size ordered. No tariffs added there. Even so what's the cost of a 10% tariff on steel at their level? Not like they were mass producing. Not many use that crap anyhow. Their steel quality sucks. Pffft.


----------



## Section31

Curious those with FTW3 blocks and 3090 have any temperature on the memory temps on backside of the cards.


----------



## dwolvin

Like listed temp? I have heard they get notably warm...


----------



## JustinThyme

When it comes from the factory with backside cooling there’s a reason. There are memory ICs mounted on both sides.


----------



## Bart

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah I never bought the steel story either. Too many sources. Thyssen out of Germany has many places in the US. Steel shows up in massive rolls and the slit it and shear it to size ordered. No tariffs added there. Even so what's the cost of a 10% tariff on steel at their level? Not like they were mass producing. Not many use that crap anyhow. Their steel quality sucks. Pffft.


Yeah that smells, considering their cases were primarily made from supposed "aircraft grade aluminum". If my M8 was steel, you'd be barely able to move the thing, LOL!


----------



## zervun

Bart said:


> Yeah that smells, considering their cases were primarily made from supposed "aircraft grade aluminum". If my M8 was steel, you'd be barely able to move the thing, LOL!


A roll of aircraft grade aluminum runs about 3k give or take a ton (2000lb) depending a bit on thickness from a quick google search. 

I'm guessing my Tx10 which is massive weighs about 50-70 poundsish? Talking a very rough ballpark of about 100 bucks in aluminum (of course there is a lot of waste in there that gets cut off) for a case that put me back like $1300 bucks. Even if we double it to $200 bucks, that's ~15% of my total case cost.

The majority of the cost is labor/design/markup/other pieces I'm guessing. Obviously an extremely rough estimate but nowhere near where the metal cost would make that much of a difference.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Like listed temp? I have heard they get notably warm...


Reading about how some people added heatsinks and brought the backside memory temps down


----------



## originxt

Section31 said:


> Curious those with FTW3 blocks and 3090 have any temperature on the memory temps on backside of the cards.


I can say that it definitely gets a bit hot. I decided to just put 2 a12x25s on the back of the card and it never feels hot anymore.

I could put a thermal sensor in the back to check if needed but unsure how it will affect the big ass thermal pad itself since I need to pry it off.


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> I can say that it definitely gets a bit hot. I decided to just put 2 a12x25s on the back of the card and it never feels hot anymore.
> 
> I could put a thermal sensor in the back to check if needed but unsure how it will affect the big ass thermal pad itself since I need to pry it off.


So i guess even thick backplate isn't enough. Planning out that part while i wait for GPU blocks to come out.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Curious those with FTW3 blocks and 3090 have any temperature on the memory temps on backside of the cards.


They should. Least the 2080ti’s did


----------



## originxt

Section31 said:


> So i guess even thick backplate isn't enough. Planning out that part while i wait for GPU blocks to come out.


I'm sure the temperatures are in check without the fans, The backplate itself was just uncomfortable to touch after a short while. I just put them on in hopes maybe I can get a bit more out of my overclock.



Shawnb99 said:


> They should. Least the 2080ti’s did


First time using an EVGA gpu and I got pretty excited to hear about the additional sensors to make sure component temps were in check, only to find the rear memory modules aren't tracked by ICX. Called EVGA to confirm. Unsure their profit margins on the card itself but I can't imagine putting additional sensors in the back of the card breaking the bank.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Any one have any info about the %15 discount code they promised? How can we get it? Contacted them 3 times but no replies....


----------



## LiquidHaus

Some people have installed memory waterblocks onto the backplates of their 3090 setups. I have a similar idea with that for myself with an even bigger block for the backplate.


But I'll have to get a block to help with that to start with.


----------



## Johnny_Utah

Hopefully more of us will get some shipping info soon.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Some progress on LiquidHaus Foundations Shrouds..


----------



## evilbob2200

LiquidHaus said:


> Some progress on LiquidHaus Foundations Shrouds..
> 
> 
> View attachment 2475170
> 
> 
> View attachment 2475171
> 
> 
> View attachment 2475172


ooooo those are sexy


----------



## criskoe

LiquidHaus said:


> Some progress on LiquidHaus Foundations Shrouds..



These look nice. I assume these will just slide over the top of the block. If so I think it would look better if it covered the screw holes aswell. Maybe angled corners or possibly match the block oring. Realize that makes it harder to make tho. 

Either way good job dude.


----------



## Mxj1

LiquidHaus said:


> Some progress on LiquidHaus Foundations Shrouds..


I'll buy one.


----------



## RichKnecht

LiquidHaus said:


> Some progress on LiquidHaus Foundations Shrouds..


Nice job! Maybe I'll buy a Foundation and replace my Signature V2 and get one of these.


----------



## Bart

Love it!!! Nice and subtle, you can barely notice it, just makes the block look a bit thicker. Me wanty!!!! These blocks need to be lit up in the worst way for some of us!


----------



## LiquidHaus

evilbob2200 said:


> ooooo those are sexy


Thank you, sir!



criskoe said:


> These look nice. I assume these will just slide over the top of the block. If so I think it would look better if it covered the screw holes aswell. Maybe angled corners or possibly match the block oring. Realize that makes it harder to make tho.
> 
> Either way good job dude.


Thanks man! Yes, I actually have some plans to change the design a bit later today. I agree, could do with covering up the screw heads. I want to keep it as clean/simple as possible.



Mxj1 said:


> I'll buy one.


Sweet! Once they're ready, they'll be for sale on my site. It'll most likely be a DIY product. Sell the shroud, probably the diodes as well. Wiring it up is on the customer to do. I simply don't have the time to invest to do them all for the price point that is negotiable for people to spend on it.



RichKnecht said:


> Nice job! Maybe I'll buy a Foundation and replace my Signature V2 and get one of these.


Thanks! That'd be an awesome reason to switch over!



Bart said:


> Love it!!! Nice and subtle, you can barely notice it, just makes the block look a bit thicker. Me wanty!!!! These blocks need to be lit up in the worst way for some of us!


Thanks so much man! Yeah that's exactly what I am trying to get with this shroud!


----------



## JustinThyme

LiquidHaus said:


> Thank you, sir!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man! Yes, I actually have some plans to change the design a bit later today. I agree, could do with covering up the screw heads. I want to keep it as clean/simple as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet! Once they're ready, they'll be for sale on my site. It'll most likely be a DIY product. Sell the shroud, probably the diodes as well. Wiring it up is on the customer to do. I simply don't have the time to invest to do them all for the price point that is negotiable for people to spend on it.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! That'd be an awesome reason to switch over!
> 
> Thanks so much man! Yeah that's exactly what I am trying to get with this shroud!


Be sure to let us know when available. I’m seeing AMD, will you have these for Intel as well?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

LiquidHaus said:


> Some progress on LiquidHaus Foundations Shrouds..
> 
> 
> View attachment 2475170
> 
> 
> View attachment 2475171
> 
> 
> View attachment 2475172


That looks great, will buy when it's ready


----------



## evilbob2200

well my prediction was wrong lol got my 3080 before the block >_< now to play the waiting game haha order 2814 so hopefully very very soon


----------



## DedRonin

evilbob2200 said:


> well my prediction was wrong lol got my 3080 before the block >_< now to play the waiting game haha order 2814 so hopefully very very soon


I think the last one I saw was 2808 so you're pretty close. Im in the 90s. Lol


----------



## evilbob2200

DedRonin said:


> I think the last one I saw was 2808 so you're pretty close. Im in the 90s. Lol


guess ill finally be building this loop soon then! now just gotta decide if i wanna do zmt or clear


----------



## rayuma

evilbob2200 said:


> guess ill finally be building this loop soon then! now just gotta decide if i wanna do zmt or clear


ZMT


----------



## Mroberts95

evilbob2200 said:


> guess ill finally be building this loop soon then! now just gotta decide if i wanna do zmt or clear


Go ZMT.
It doesnt go yellow like clear tubing and smells nice lol.
I have a black and silver build so it fits right in.


----------



## Palito93

They just restocked their website with some CPU blocks if anyone is interested

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## LiquidHaus

JustinThyme said:


> Be sure to let us know when available. I’m seeing AMD, will you have these for Intel as well?


I designed the shroud to be mounted to the acrylic itself and not reliant on the bracket, so it'll work for both AMD and Intel blocks!



Edge0fsanity said:


> That looks great, will buy when it's ready


Awesome I'll be sure to include an announcement in here 



Mroberts95 said:


> Go ZMT.
> It doesnt go yellow like clear tubing and smells nice lol.
> I have a black and silver build so it fits right in.


Smells like new shoes haha it's the best.


----------



## Dreams-Visions

Palito93 said:


> They just restocked their website with some CPU blocks if anyone is interested
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


picked one up. thanks for the tip!


----------



## Shawnb99

KPE is now incoming so where’s my block @Optimus WC?


----------



## Dreams-Visions

is there a recommendation for copper vs nickel cold plate? Is there any meaningful performance or longevity difference between them?


----------



## Palito93

Dreams-Visions said:


> is there a recommendation for copper vs nickel cold plate? Is there any meaningful performance or longevity difference between them?


I'm no expert, but I've seen a lot of people mentioning that you shouldn't mix metal's. By that, i mean if your gpu block is nickel plated, you should choose a nickel plated cpu block aswell.

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawnb99

Palito93 said:


> I'm no expert, but I've seen a lot of people mentioning that you shouldn't mix metal's. By that, i mean if your gpu block is nickel plated, you should choose a nickel plated cpu block aswell.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Mixing metals is more no copper and aluminum. Copper theoretically is best since it’s better then nickel at heat conduction but the plating is so small the difference is not even a degree.
The reason why people go with nickel is cause it’s shiny and”nicer” and copper will oxidize and tarnish over time and need to be polished to keep looking nice. The downside of all plating is it tends to flake and cause issues with you loop. ALL plating does this even Optimus’s.


----------



## jincuteguy

Im looking at these Optimus 1/2in fittings, what would be a good fit hardline tubing in mm for them? I need a Pre-bent 90 degree tubing and the only brand that do 90 degree pre bent is Bitspower. But apparently Bitspower only have their tubings in mm, not in inches. So what would be a good fit in terms of mm for the Optimus 1/2in fitting?


----------



## Shawnb99

Email Optimus directly and ask for mm fittings if you want them. Using the 1/2” and converting was to complicated for me


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Mixing metals is more no copper and aluminum. Copper theoretically is best since it’s better then nickel at heat conduction but the plating is so small the difference is not even a degree.
> The reason why people go with nickel is cause it’s shiny and”nicer” and copper will oxidize and tarnish over time and need to be polished to keep looking nice. The downside of all plating is it tends to flake and cause issues with you loop. ALL plating does this even Optimus’s.


+1, its about copper and aluminum. Nickel plating actually helps with either. Aluminum and Copper is another story. Guaranteed galvanic corrosion and green crap all up in your loop. I personally use all nickel plated copper. If the plating is done right it will remain clean and shiny for years to come. Bare copper will oxidize, not a matter of if, but when. Ive run both the nickel and copper cold plates in the sig V2, no notable difference. You order a copper Sig V2 and you get a nickel plated brass housing with a copper cold plate. The only thing of note is the advertised nickel plating that will never flake....flaked off of the fins on the first cold plate in the sig V2. To their credit they overnighted me a new cold plate and no further issues. 

I bought a foundation to round out all my comparisons from PPCs while I had not only a hefty discount coupon code but a good bit of rewards points stacked up, cost me like $40 shipped. Showed up today so Ill be putting that in the loop over the weekend along with a lot of other changes like a MORA. 

I was to add an aquaero next flow meter just for giggles. ModMyMods page showed in stock and ready to ship. I ordered it, they took my money last week but I never received shipment notification. No response from their email so I called them yesterday and they said they didnt have any, they were on back order and they had no clue of when they will come in if ever. Im like Ok then just refund my card and cancel. Then things got a little nasty when SEAN or Shawn however he spells it told me Id have to pay a 10% cancelation fee. Im like uh no, Im not paying a cancellation fee for something I ordered that the webpage said in stock ready to ship and now you tell me you dont have them. I get it if I order and decided I dont want it and send it back for a restocking fee but were talking about something that never shipped and isnt going to ship. I did not approve any back order as I just dont do back orders or preorders. He insisted and unfortunately they have been reported to the FTC as they are not supposed to charge prior to shipping and filed a dispute with my credit card. Told him I was going to so that and he started laughing and said good luck with that and hung up on me. They wont get another penny of my money. I dont recommend them!!


----------



## JustinThyme

jincuteguy said:


> Im looking at these Optimus 1/2in fittings, what would be a good fit hardline tubing in mm for them? I need a Pre-bent 90 degree tubing and the only brand that do 90 degree pre bent is Bitspower. But apparently Bitspower only have their tubings in mm, not in inches. So what would be a good fit in terms of mm for the Optimus 1/2in fitting?


13mm OD. 1/2 inch=12.7mm

Heres one for reference of a Koolance listing that says both in the same listing.








Rotary Elbow Compression Fitting for OD 13mm (1/2") Rigid Tubing - Black


Rotary Elbow Compression Fitting for OD 13mm (1/2") Rigid Tubing - Black FIT-L13RT-BK




www.performance-pcs.com


----------



## Dreams-Visions

thanks for the insight on copper vs nickel. The copper on black is so nice looking, but I'm not sure if the tarnishing aspect will be worth the additional maintenance.


----------



## WayWayUp

dont forget that nickel is much more ideal for liquid metal


----------



## Bart

Any word on 6900XT blocks? After waiting for weeks on end for an EVGA 3080 and hearing nothing, I switched my cash to an Asus 6900XT and it shockingly landed in 3 days, go figure.


----------



## Dreams-Visions

WayWayUp said:


> dont forget that nickel is much more ideal for liquid metal


oh you mean like Conductonaut?


----------



## jincuteguy

JustinThyme said:


> 13mm OD. 1/2 inch=12.7mm
> 
> Heres one for reference of a Koolance listing that says both in the same listing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rotary Elbow Compression Fitting for OD 13mm (1/2") Rigid Tubing - Black
> 
> 
> Rotary Elbow Compression Fitting for OD 13mm (1/2") Rigid Tubing - Black FIT-L13RT-BK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com


Yea, but the thing is there are no Bitspower Pre-Bent tubing for 13mm . Plus 13mm is not exactly 1/2in


----------



## CluckyTaco

Is it just me or I'm just unlucky I guess. The acrylic with black aluminum is sold out on the website. Should I wait as I don't want to compromise on the color choice when I am paying this much?


----------



## JustinThyme

CluckyTaco said:


> Is it just me or I'm just unlucky I guess. The acrylic with black aluminum is sold out on the website. Should I wait as I don't want to compromise on the color choice when I am paying this much?
> 
> View attachment 2475325



waited too long. Even PPCs is out of most
They have 3 left one acrylic/copper with satin aluminum mount and tw0 acetal Nickel with black aluminum mount
both copper






Search results for: 'optimus foundation'


Your best source on the Net for cutting edge computer modification hardware! Performance-PCs.com Store Performance PC's, Inc. PPCS




www.performance-pcs.com




better hurry if you want either.

I already have a sig V2 and just had a acrylic nickel satin aluminum mount delivered this morning from PPCs


----------



## JustinThyme

Dreams-Visions said:


> oh you mean like Conductonaut?


Yes, Nickel will take it better without pitting. Aluminum, forget it and copper will pit. While its some a$$ kickin TIM I'll leave that to the delid applications. One freakin hose job and you have screwed that pooch. Too freakin hard to clean off too. Kryonaught works good enough and wipes right off with good 95% lab grade alcohol or anything else above 90%. Just dont use the cheap 70% drug store crap.

Im with you on the copper too. Its pretty when its new but its going to oxidize, just a matter of time. Nickel plated stays pretty forever so long as the plating isn't a crap job.


----------



## JustinThyme

jincuteguy said:


> Yea, but the thing is there are no Bitspower Pre-Bent tubing for 13mm . Plus 13mm is not exactly 1/2in


Its on the page and no its not exactly 13 mm but close enough. 0.3mm isnt going to matter.
Prebent does though a curve ball at everything. Are you using metal?


----------



## Section31

jincuteguy said:


> Im looking at these Optimus 1/2in fittings, what would be a good fit hardline tubing in mm for them? I need a Pre-bent 90 degree tubing and the only brand that do 90 degree pre bent is Bitspower. But apparently Bitspower only have their tubings in mm, not in inches. So what would be a good fit in terms of mm for the Optimus 1/2in fitting?


I would stick with metric you get lot more options.


----------



## jincuteguy

JustinThyme said:


> Its on the page and no its not exactly 13 mm but close enough. 0.3mm isnt going to matter.
> Prebent does though a curve ball at everything. Are you using metal?


No, just want either Acrylic or PETG pre-bent


----------



## jincuteguy

Section31 said:


> I would stick with metric you get lot more options.


Yea i like metric better but Optimus doen'st have metric , they only have inches which kinda suck


----------



## Shawnb99

jincuteguy said:


> Yea i like metric better but Optimus doen'st have metric , they only have inches which kinda suck


You have to contact them for metric. Didn’t have it on the site when I ordered either yet I got 14mm


----------



## Section31

jincuteguy said:


> Yea i like metric better but Optimus doen'st have metric , they only have inches which kinda suck


Maybe its out of stock and you need to email them. I saw it on there site couple weeks ago


----------



## Shawnb99

Any one use Optimus’s flex compression fittings and if so how are they? Now that I scrapped my ditro plates I’m rethinking going all hardline, might be better to go with a mix of soft and hard.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Any one use Optimus’s flex compression fittings and if so how are they? Now that I scrapped my ditro plates I’m rethinking going all hardline, might be better to go with a mix of soft and hard.


Very good. Following me now?


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Very good. Following me now?


With the amount of times I change or tear down it just makes sense.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> With the amount of times I change or tear down it just makes sense.


Glad someone sees the flexibility offered by such builds (but comes at extra costs)


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC do you have other sizes for the compression fittings or is it limited to 10/16mm? 
Also can I exchange some of my hardline fittings for them?


----------



## zervun

JustinThyme said:


> +1, its about copper and aluminum. Nickel plating actually helps with either. Aluminum and Copper is another story. Guaranteed galvanic corrosion and green crap all up in your loop. I personally use all nickel plated copper. If the plating is done right it will remain clean and shiny for years to come. Bare copper will oxidize, not a matter of if, but when. Ive run both the nickel and copper cold plates in the sig V2, no notable difference. You order a copper Sig V2 and you get a nickel plated brass housing with a copper cold plate. The only thing of note is the advertised nickel plating that will never flake....flaked off of the fins on the first cold plate in the sig V2. To their credit they overnighted me a new cold plate and no further issues.
> 
> I bought a foundation to round out all my comparisons from PPCs while I had not only a hefty discount coupon code but a good bit of rewards points stacked up, cost me like $40 shipped. Showed up today so Ill be putting that in the loop over the weekend along with a lot of other changes like a MORA.
> 
> I was to add an aquaero next flow meter just for giggles. ModMyMods page showed in stock and ready to ship. I ordered it, they took my money last week but I never received shipment notification. No response from their email so I called them yesterday and they said they didnt have any, they were on back order and they had no clue of when they will come in if ever. Im like Ok then just refund my card and cancel. Then things got a little nasty when SEAN or Shawn however he spells it told me Id have to pay a 10% cancelation fee. Im like uh no, Im not paying a cancellation fee for something I ordered that the webpage said in stock ready to ship and now you tell me you dont have them. I get it if I order and decided I dont want it and send it back for a restocking fee but were talking about something that never shipped and isnt going to ship. I did not approve any back order as I just dont do back orders or preorders. He insisted and unfortunately they have been reported to the FTC as they are not supposed to charge prior to shipping and filed a dispute with my credit card. Told him I was going to so that and he started laughing and said good luck with that and hung up on me. They wont get another penny of my money. I dont recommend them!!


Ick, that blows.

Same exact situation with me - "in stock" and nope it is NOT in stock and has happened with three of my orders. This is of course stuff from aquacomputer and/or watercool (mo-ra3). They order it from the manufacturer which is a complete load of ****. It's basically drop shipping and/or preorders. which is PERFECTLY fine if you tell us that it is that.

Listen, I don't give a **** if you drop ship it but let me ****ing know. Each time was something that was critical (well at least to me as a consumer) to my build I was doing where shipped-to-time frames for me were important. I shopped around for something that was "in-stock" and went with them.

I had to get them on the phone to figure out when they were getting said "in-stock" item to me. All were of course late at least more than a week or two which I wasn't surprised with the covid stuff and them getting it from Europe.

But common. Don't put **** in-stock if it isn't in-stock. Boiled my blood. They were however the only ones I could find that I could still order and get it, albeit weeks later. They were always nice on the phone to me at least but it didn't help the shipping times or the deception.

I've probably spent a good 3-4k with them over time. The real in-stock items were never an issue but don't snow us over on the drop-shipping and/or delayed items.


----------



## Section31

zervun said:


> Ick, that blows.
> 
> Same exact situation with me - "in stock" and nope it is NOT in stock and has happened with three of my orders. This is of course stuff from aquacomputer and/or watercool (mo-ra3). They order it from the manufacturer which is a complete load of ****. It's basically drop shipping and/or preorders. which is PERFECTLY fine if you tell us that it is that.
> 
> Listen, I don't give a **** if you drop ship it but let me ****ing know. Each time was something that was critical (well at least to me as a consumer) to my build I was doing where shipped-to-time frames for me were important. I shopped around for something that was "in-stock" and went with them.
> 
> I had to get them on the phone to figure out when they were getting said "in-stock" item to me. All were of course late at least more than a week or two which I wasn't surprised with the covid stuff and them getting it from Europe.
> 
> But common. Don't put **** in-stock if it isn't in-stock. Boiled my blood. They were however the only ones I could find that I could still order and get it, albeit weeks later. They were always nice on the phone to me at least but it didn't help the shipping times or the deception.
> 
> I've probably spent a good 3-4k with them over time. The real in-stock items were never an issue but don't snow us over on the drop-shipping and/or delayed items.


Calm Down. I have spent more than you (considering i reccomended the brand to friends and some ppl here). Not all of us need the stuff urgently.

I don’t mind waiting, especially in current market conditions. My build is delayed till summer as i’m busy mar/apr so even if i get stuff before then, its going to sit to there.


----------



## zervun

Section31 said:


> Calm Down. I have spent more than you (considering i reccomended the brand to friends and some ppl here). Not all of us need the stuff urgently.
> 
> I don’t mind waiting, especially in current market conditions. My build is delayed till summer as i’m busy mar/apr so even if i get stuff before then, its going to sit to there.





Section31 said:


> Calm Down. I have spent more than you (considering i reccomended the brand to friends and some ppl here). Not all of us need the stuff urgently.
> 
> I don’t mind waiting, especially in current market conditions. My build is delayed till summer as i’m busy mar/apr so even if i get stuff before then, its going to sit to there.


Well, I still order from them and I'm not mad it's just extremely frustrating.

I don't care about order times, I don't care about covid delays. All those are understandable. They just need to state that there may be extended times on items that are drop shipped or ordered and keep us in the loop. If it says "in-stock" I'm expecting covid-19 delays due to shipping but I'm also expecting that they have the item on-site or at their warehouse.

What is not understandable is that there is something posted "in-stock" which is not. Would be more than happy to "pre-order" or put money down on a hold, even with time-frames that were not specified.

What is not ok is posting something in-stock when it is not. You are expecting something and we are left waiting not knowing why said item isn't shipping. They have not communicated to me at any time when I have ordered an item that is drop-shipped, delayed, etc until I have called and/or emailed them.

I think it is pretty reasonable to expect the information up-front when you are making a purchase, even if it is "Order taken, unsure when this item will be shipped, but we have received your order and will let you know when it ships. We expect delays from our supplier". I have ordered many items "in-stock" which were actually "in-stock". I just simply want to be informed which items I'm ordering that are a drop-ship or ordering directly from the manufacturer so I can time things appropriately.

This has absolutely nothing to do with covid delays - they are 100% understandable. This is about stating something is in-stock which is in reality not in-stock. I would expect that one of these items that is drop-shipped/ordered from the manufacturer would state as such when I am ordering so I could have expectations, even if it was 6 months out.

Edit: should have said that everything else I have ordered has been a great experience, quick shipped without issue. I am specifically addressing the drop-shipped or direct from manufacturer items that they list as "in-stock" which are not. They still arrived but I was completely confused and had to follow up with them why they hadn't shipped. All I wanted to know if that when I ordered so I could time things...


----------



## evilbob2200

Mroberts95 said:


> Go ZMT.
> It doesnt go yellow like clear tubing and smells nice lol.
> I have a black and silver build so it fits right in.


zmt it is haha i have both because i couldnt decide which


----------



## Section31

zervun said:


> Well, I still order from them and I'm not mad it's just extremely frustrating.
> 
> I don't care about order times, I don't care about covid delays. All those are understandable. They just need to state that there may be extended times on items that are drop shipped or ordered and keep us in the loop. If it says "in-stock" I'm expecting covid-19 delays due to shipping but I'm also expecting that they have the item on-site or at their warehouse.
> 
> What is not understandable is that there is something posted "in-stock" which is not. Would be more than happy to "pre-order" or put money down on a hold, even with time-frames that were not specified.
> 
> What is not ok is posting something in-stock when it is not. You are expecting something and we are left waiting not knowing why said item isn't shipping. They have not communicated to me at any time when I have ordered an item that is drop-shipped, delayed, etc until I have called and/or emailed them.
> 
> I think it is pretty reasonable to expect the information up-front when you are making a purchase, even if it is "Order taken, unsure when this item will be shipped, but we have received your order and will let you know when it ships. We expect delays from our supplier". I have ordered many items "in-stock" which were actually "in-stock". I just simply want to be informed which items I'm ordering that are a drop-ship or ordering directly from the manufacturer so I can time things appropriately.
> 
> This has absolutely nothing to do with covid delays - they are 100% understandable. This is about stating something is in-stock which is in reality not in-stock. I would expect that one of these items that is drop-shipped/ordered from the manufacturer would state as such when I am ordering so I could have expectations, even if it was 6 months out.
> 
> Edit: should have said that everything else I have ordered has been a great experience, quick shipped without issue. I am specifically addressing the drop-shipped or direct from manufacturer items that they list as "in-stock" which are not. They still arrived but I was completely confused and had to follow up with them why they hadn't shipped. All I wanted to know if that when I ordered so I could time things...


Yeah communications need to be improved. Thank you for stating your concerns in more detail, helps to see the whole picture


----------



## JustinThyme

zervun said:


> Well, I still order from them and I'm not mad it's just extremely frustrating.
> 
> I don't care about order times, I don't care about covid delays. All those are understandable. They just need to state that there may be extended times on items that are drop shipped or ordered and keep us in the loop. If it says "in-stock" I'm expecting covid-19 delays due to shipping but I'm also expecting that they have the item on-site or at their warehouse.
> 
> What is not understandable is that there is something posted "in-stock" which is not. Would be more than happy to "pre-order" or put money down on a hold, even with time-frames that were not specified.
> 
> What is not ok is posting something in-stock when it is not. You are expecting something and we are left waiting not knowing why said item isn't shipping. They have not communicated to me at any time when I have ordered an item that is drop-shipped, delayed, etc until I have called and/or emailed them.
> 
> I think it is pretty reasonable to expect the information up-front when you are making a purchase, even if it is "Order taken, unsure when this item will be shipped, but we have received your order and will let you know when it ships. We expect delays from our supplier". I have ordered many items "in-stock" which were actually "in-stock". I just simply want to be informed which items I'm ordering that are a drop-ship or ordering directly from the manufacturer so I can time things appropriately.
> 
> This has absolutely nothing to do with covid delays - they are 100% understandable. This is about stating something is in-stock which is in reality not in-stock. I would expect that one of these items that is drop-shipped/ordered from the manufacturer would state as such when I am ordering so I could have expectations, even if it was 6 months out.


Yeah with me it said in stock ready to ship and they didn’t have any. Look the day I called and it now says out of stock, back order available. I don’t preorder or back order anything. If you have it, I’ll buy it. If you don’t then I’ll look elsewhere. The only reason I placed the order is because they said in stock ready to ship. Search now and no one has them including the manufacturer save one jack wagon on Amazon market place listing a $75 item for $500. Uhhhh no thank you. I do most of my specialty business with PPCs. We’re on a first name basis over there. If I call as soon as Duke hears my voice he knows who it is. If they say in stock, they have it in the warehouse, not drop shipped. I’d buy directly from aquaero but the shipping is what kills it. Like $25 flat rate for a $75 part. Now if you place a large order it’s worth it. But in that case you are better off using aquatunig as they sell all the aquaero stuff as well as other manufacturers. Watercool is the same way. Gets here in like 3 days from Germany and my last order was worth it with 2 heat killer blocks with backplates and a 200mm tube res amd a few other odds and ends. No one stateside had them and it was a wait for them to be released by watercool and EK. Air just didn’t work at all. Too freakin hot and sucked that hot air through my rad and jacked my loop temp when they weren’t even in the loop. I ran phanteks blocks for awhile that worked surprisingly well and looked decent too. Only issue is until HK and EK put them out like 6 months after the card hit the market they both had available passive backplates where phanteks was set up on the premise that you were keeping the original that IMO did more harm than good. No contact on anything, just an insulator with a fancy ROG RGB eye on top. Thermal take out one out that got pulled faster than it was introduced and Barrow did as well amd I even tried them and sent that junk back less than 24 hours after receiving.

But yeah in stock should mean you have it. Not we will put in the order through the manufacturer then when you find out and cancel they want to charge you 10% for having done nothing? I’ll not be buying from them again. I’ll just use what I have for the time being and wait until someone who actually does have stock has them and l’ll order then.


----------



## zervun

Section31 said:


> Yeah communications need to be improved. Thank you for stating your concerns in more detail, helps to see the whole picture


I probably came across too angry in my original post. They are one of the two places I really order stuff from them and performance-pcs and occasionally titan rig for amazon emergency purchases and sleeving stuff.

Our options are really limited high-end watercooling wise. Performance-pcs website has always been painfully slow and hard to use but never had any issues and customer service has always been top-notch - they just have no pre-order/backorder function and always out of stock.

I also made the mistake to redo my whole system based on some expected times, had a mo-ra3 which I had been sitting on for 2 years which leaked out of the box (and of course out of warranty) which threw a wrench in things. In-stock turned into 3 - 4 weeks which just screwed up everything. I would have probably placed a big order from EU if I had known and saves some parts for some other builds to hit the shipping cap.

I'd love to order straight from watercool or aquatuning but the shipping just kills it.. and the stuff is out of stock everywhere hense the modmymods purchase as it showed in stock.


----------



## anr11

CluckyTaco said:


> Is it just me or I'm just unlucky I guess. The acrylic with black aluminum is sold out on the website. Should I wait as I don't want to compromise on the color choice when I am paying this much?


I'm in the same boat. I love the look of the acrylic + black aluminum with PRO-XE Nickel. I've added myself to the email notification on performance PC's and will keep checking the Optimus site.


----------



## Section31

zervun said:


> I probably came across too angry in my original post. They are one of the two places I really order stuff from them and performance-pcs and occasionally titan rig for amazon emergency purchases and sleeving stuff.
> 
> Our options are really limited high-end watercooling wise. Performance-pcs website has always been painfully slow and hard to use but never had any issues and customer service has always been top-notch - they just have no pre-order/backorder function and always out of stock.
> 
> I also made the mistake to redo my whole system based on some expected times, had a mo-ra3 which I had been sitting on for 2 years which leaked out of the box (and of course out of warranty) which threw a wrench in things. In-stock turned into 3 - 4 weeks which just screwed up everything. I would have probably placed a big order from EU if I had known and saves some parts for some other builds to hit the shipping cap.
> 
> I'd love to order straight from watercool or aquatuning but the shipping just kills it.. and the stuff is out of stock everywhere hense the modmymods purchase as it showed in stock.


Interesting. If you can get 400euro its free shipping. I got groupbuy going on so hence why shipping isn’t an issue


----------



## JustinThyme

jincuteguy said:


> No, just want either Acrylic or PETG pre-bent


for what you spend on that and the scrap you end up with as well as inability to do small offsets may as well bend your own. It’s not overly difficult and if you’ve not done it before just get a bending kit and a heat gun and order twice as much tubing as you think you will need. Once you do it a few times it becomes easy.


----------



## zervun

Section31 said:


> Interesting. If you can get 400euro its free shipping. I got groupbuy going on so hence why shipping isn’t an issue


Unfortunately got most of my parts now and tons I should probably sell  Anyone want 2x brand new (circa 2018) monsoon res's with d5's never used?

Would have been wiser for me to buy all stuff at once but I change my mind constantly, I have no less than 10 D5 pumps and about the same in different branded Res's. I also did not expect that I would be willing to sell my first child for aquatuning/aquasuite parts and/or how much of it I would need. Did order from them in the past before the shipping hike.

I should probably get an aquasuite tramp stamp tattoo at this point.


----------



## zervun

jincuteguy said:


> No, just want either Acrylic or PETG pre-bent





JustinThyme said:


> for what you spend on that and the scrap you end up with as well as inability to do small offsets may as well bend your own. It’s not overly difficult and if you’ve not done it before just get a bending kit and a heat gun and order twice as much tubing as you think you will need. Once you do it a few times it becomes easy.


concur - it is pointless to buy pre-bend items, you will need to do custom bends for most of it in the long run. PETG is much more forgiving to start out.

3 things with a little practice = win. I've tried all the options and have the eiskoffer big kit which is a bit pointless imo except for base and attachments for initial bending - I have never successfully been able to use the kit as it's supposed to be used. You are going to cut, heat and bend by hand, reheat and adjust. The eiskoffer gives you a bit of an initial bend but thats about it I have never been able to use it full blown for an exact configured tube, spent more hours wasting on using it then bending by hand.


This Amazon.com: Dremel MS20-01 Moto-Saw Variable Speed Compact Scroll Saw Kit: Home Improvement (it's a plastic piece of crap, but for the $$$ best bang for buck and perfect for tubing. Can always get a real saw which is better for more $$$). I have pipe cutters sitting around that cost more than this and way more painful to use and can leave marks.)
This Amazon.com: PrimoChill RFB Rigid Tubing Finishing Bit - 3/8in. ID x 1/2in. OD: Computers & Accessories (make sure to get your correct tubing size and you need a drill - cordless recommended)
This Wagner Furno 750 Heat Gun-0503064 - The Home Depot
Or a cordless dewalt if you want to go down that route. The Wagner corded ones sit straight up on a flat surface.

Whatever tube bending base tool you want 90 degree 270 degree etc
1. Measure by whatever gimp method you have
2. Cut in seconds with the dremel
3. Heat with heat gun
4. Bend around tube bender
5. Heat again
6. Got a bubble, throw piece away start over at #1
7. Same spot but tube is too short
8. Get really pissed off, throw something at wall
9. Start over at #1
10. (Optional, screw up again and start over at #1)
10. Finally a great tube
11. Cut down if you need with dremel or just use the Primochill and drill it down. Will have to use the Primochill to round it out
12. Try to put it into case, rage and adjust


----------



## Section31

zervun said:


> Unfortunately got most of my parts now and tons I should probably sell  Anyone want 2x brand new (circa 2018) monsoon res's with d5's never used?
> 
> Would have been wiser for me to buy all stuff at once but I change my mind constantly, I have no less than 10 D5 pumps and about the same in different branded Res's. I also did not expect that I would be willing to sell my first child for aquatuning/aquasuite parts and/or how much of it I would need. Did order from them in the past before the shipping hike.
> 
> I should probably get an aquasuite tramp stamp tattoo at this point.


Happens to all of us. Sell and go aquacomputer. You won’t regret it


----------



## JustinThyme

zervun said:


> concur - it is pointless to buy pre-bend items, you will need to do custom bends for most of it in the long run. PETG is much more forgiving to start out.
> 
> 3 things with a little practice = win. I've tried all the options and have the eiskoffer big kit which is a bit pointless imo except for base and attachments for initial bending - I have never successfully been able to use the kit as it's supposed to be used. You are going to cut, heat and bend by hand, reheat and adjust. The eiskoffer gives you a bit of an initial bend but thats about it I have never been able to use it full blown for an exact configured tube, spent more hours wasting on using it then bending by hand.
> 
> 
> This Amazon.com: Dremel MS20-01 Moto-Saw Variable Speed Compact Scroll Saw Kit: Home Improvement (it's a plastic piece of crap, but for the $$$ best bang for buck and perfect for tubing. Can always get a real saw which is better for more $$$). I have pipe cutters sitting around that cost more than this and way more painful to use and can leave marks.)
> This Amazon.com: PrimoChill RFB Rigid Tubing Finishing Bit - 3/8in. ID x 1/2in. OD: Computers & Accessories (make sure to get your correct tubing size and you need a drill - cordless recommended)
> This Wagner Furno 750 Heat Gun-0503064 - The Home Depot
> Or a cordless dewalt if you want to go down that route. The Wagner corded ones sit straight up on a flat surface.
> 
> Whatever tube bending base tool you want 90 degree 270 degree etc
> 1. Measure by whatever gimp method you have
> 2. Cut in seconds with the dremel
> 3. Heat with heat gun
> 4. Bend around tube bender
> 5. Heat again
> 6. Got a bubble, throw piece away start over at #1
> 7. Same spot but tube is too short
> 8. Get really pissed off, throw something at wall
> 9. Start over at #1
> 10. (Optional, screw up again and start over at #1)
> 10. Finally a great tube
> 11. Cut down if you need with dremel or just use the Primochill and drill it down. Will have to use the Primochill to round it out
> 12. Try to put it into case, rage and adjust


LOL at dents in wall. I generally just use the jig to bend 90s and always leave extra. Then if I need an offset I just leave the noodle in and do that before I put it in place. Chop off the little extra on ends with dremmel and have second dremmel with a sanding drum to smooth the outside and the reamer to get the inside.

biggest secret to not screwing up is take your time heating. Get in a hurry and there goes the burn marks and bubbles. All a difference of maybe 30 seconds tops. I usually have my Wagner heat gun clamped in my wood working vice pointed up and just work it back and forth and around in a circle until I see it start to droop then put it in the jig and bend and hold 10 seconds, done. First few times I had a scrap pile, now it’s just the small pieces I chop off when fitting as noting sucks more than going through all that to end up 1/4” short.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Happens to all of us. Sell and go aquacomputer. You won’t regret it


Some of us already have the tramp stamp aquaero logo on our junk instead of our back, don’t want anyone coming in from the back side!


----------



## Shawnb99

Caselabs is the only tramp stamp for me. I have enough Aqucomputer gear to complete a sleeve


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Caselabs is the only tramp stamp for me. I have enough Aqucomputer gear to complete a sleeve


Not one piece of Caselabs anything. Right before they went under I spent hours trying to figure out what I needed. I was about to dump some serious coin but their website and many attempts to contact customer service left me empty handed. You couldn’t just buy a case and be done or you would get an empty shell. Kind of reminded me of Ruth Chris Steak house that I walked out of. Not only are we going to charge you $50 for a mediocre piece of meat.....oh you want a potato? That’s $10 more, side salad another $10, a glass of iced tea, another $10 and so on. By the time you get done it’s $100 a head for what you could have had better in a meal package from Longhorn for $25. I’m very happy with my Enthoo Elite. Yeah it was an arm and a leg, came in a massive shipping crate but you know what? Every part for every conceivable configuration came in the case for less than the Caselabs I was looking at with a bolt on basement with nothing in it. It was worth the $900. Want two systems in one case, parts are in there. Two GPUs mounted vertically? Parts are in there, a million drive cages? Parts are in there? Cage up top for internal display or two 5” drive bays? Parts are in there. Box with 1000 screw? In the crate. The most complete set up any way you want no extra add on a orders needed I’ve ever seen. I was teetering between this case and a 1000D but what killed the 1000D was they advertised you could put a pair of 480s up top by just buying a different slide out tray. Comes with a tray in front for two 480s and single 420 up top that are interchangeable. To this day you still cannot but the replacement tray for the top to make it where you can have 4X 480s. A few places are doing custom made ones but nothing in the US. They were very heavy on the point in initial marketing. In the Enthoo elite the most you can fit is a 480 in the bottom, 480 mid, 420 top and 560 in the front or all positions swapable with 140mm fan variants. Just a matter of how much will fit and leave you room to get to the ports.
Now after that mouthful I’m pulling 2 rads out and putting the MORA inline and flipping my GPUs back to normal position to open up PCIE slots to put my pair of Intel AIC optane drives back in and have the MORA quick connects on a PCIE bracket. Also gives me access to my buttons on the bottom. Don’t know why ASUS moved all that to the bottom left from the top right when going from RVIE to the Omega and Encore. They did improve board layout somewhat with the Encore over the Omega. Seemed the Omega was a bit of a rush just then the Encore refined with a better layout and better VRMs.


----------



## zervun

JustinThyme said:


> Not one piece of Caselabs anything. Right before they went under I spent hours trying to figure out what I needed. I was about to dump some serious coin but their website and many attempts to contact customer service left me empty handed. You couldn’t just buy a case and be done or you would get an empty shell. Kind of reminded me of Ruth Chris Steak house that I walked out of. Not only are we going to charge you $50 for a mediocre piece of meat.....oh you want a potato? That’s $10 more, side salad another $10, a glass of iced tea, another $10 and so on. By the time you get done it’s $100 a head for what you could have had better in a meal package from Longhorn for $25. I’m very happy with my Enthoo Elite. Yeah it was an arm and a leg, came in a massive shipping crate but you know what? Every part for every conceivable configuration came in the case for less than the Caselabs I was looking at with a bolt on basement with nothing in it. It was worth the $900. Want two systems in one case, parts are in there. Two GPUs mounted vertically? Parts are in there, a million drive cages? Parts are in there? Cage up top for internal display or two 5” drive bays? Parts are in there. Box with 1000 screw? In the crate. The most complete set up any way you want no extra add on a orders needed I’ve ever seen. I was teetering between this case and a 1000D but what killed the 1000D was they advertised you could put a pair of 480s up top by just buying a different slide out tray. Comes with a tray in front for two 480s and single 420 up top that are interchangeable. To this day you still cannot but the replacement tray for the top to make it where you can have 4X 480s. A few places are doing custom made ones but nothing in the US. They were very heavy on the point in initial marketing. In the Enthoo elite the most you can fit is a 480 in the bottom, 480 mid, 420 top and 560 in the front or all positions swapable with 140mm fan variants. Just a matter of how much will fit and leave you room to get to the ports.
> Now after that mouthful I’m pulling 2 rads out and putting the MORA inline and flipping my GPUs back to normal position to open up PCIE slots to put my pair of Intel AIC optane drives back in and have the MORA quick connects on a PCIE bracket. Also gives me access to my buttons on the bottom. Don’t know why ASUS moved all that to the bottom left from the top right when going from RVIE to the Omega and Encore. They did improve board layout somewhat with the Encore over the Omega. Seemed the Omega was a bit of a rush just then the Encore refined with a better layout and better VRMs.


Caselabs definately had a lot of configuration issues. However the Tx10 was and afaik the only case that could fit 2x EATX mobos in with a mo-ra3 at the top hense why I went with it. Originally wanted vertical GPUs but since I always have add in cards (optanes and 10g network cards before it was on board and I still have most of my network 40g (brocades from the serverthehomeforums) - I use the mellanox flashed 40g HP dual port cards - I have 2x brocade 6610s and 2x 6650s with a slew of 40g ports) for example was a no go. Wanted the mo-ra3 at the top so that the heat vented up/heat rising and will probably mod it to fit 2x mo-ra3's at the top in a triangle shape. Had to customize brackets for it myself though. Would have been neat for them to fit vertical GPU mounting in the tx10 while still able to have full size PCIE cards for another two inches or so width.

With my mo-ra3 at the top I can also fix an additional 4x 560 rads in the Tx10 case if I wanted to squeeze it in, more a logistical tubing routing problem at that point. It's all down to customization at this point now unfortunately. And of course I made the mistake of not ordering more drive cages, rad mounting until after the fact. Have all the 560 rad mounts I need but missing drive cages.


----------



## JustinThyme

Yeah I hear ya. I searched and researched and in the end by the time I was halfway to figuring out what I needed, they went belly up. Freakin Entho Elite is heavy as hell. Then my dumba$$ did the build on work bench in basement with my home office on the second floor so up two flights of stairs with that monster and I still haven’t found my left nut! By the time it’s loaded up it’s gotta be pushing 150lbs and awkward to handle as it’s like 3 ft tall. The one thing I am confident of is so long as I don’t get bored with the look I’ll never need another case for my main rig. I have a junk heap in the basement I’m about to clean out with several Antec full towers from back in the day when they were the sheet! Caselabs, phanteks, Liam Li, none of them existed. I do have one old one I’m going to keep that was very much like the Caselabs in that you have to order specific parts for specific builds. It’s a cube so two full sides. Had all the water cooling components and probably a dozen HDDs (no such thing as SSDs then) on the back side and dual socket MOBO on the front. It’s not all that friendly to water cooling as I had to shoe horn 3x 360 rads in it and that was when the commercial market had just started, my previous build was a pond pump and a heater core out of a 1969 Chevy pick up and block I made on a milling machine. Nowhere near as high tech as today. Just sawed it in half, drilled a butt load of holes just shy if penetrating on the cold plate side and hollowed out the in/out and drilled and tapped in 3/8 pipe threads for brass barbs. Holes in cold plate were just to create turbulence in it. There was one message board back then on my screaming 14.4K dial up connection which was replaced by forums. That’s what we had then along with my monster 40MB HDD. When I upgraded that to 500MB it was $1 per MB so $500 for a 500MB HDD. Can’t even find usb drives that small now let alone memory sticks that were all measured in kB.

Nice watching technology evolve from the 5 1/4 floppy to picking up a pack of 256GB USB 3.0 drives last week. Back then USB was non existent in PC. That started out as MAC only.

I was happy when I figured out how I could write a boot batch file to put up a bunch of buttons on the screen that were all linked to programs (we didn’t call them apps then) so once booted I clicked a button to launch whatever instead of green screen DOS command line. Windows did not yet exist.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Not one piece of Caselabs anything. Right before they went under I spent hours trying to figure out what I needed. I was about to dump some serious coin but their website and many attempts to contact customer service left me empty handed. You couldn’t just buy a case and be done or you would get an empty shell. Kind of reminded me of Ruth Chris Steak house that I walked out of. Not only are we going to charge you $50 for a mediocre piece of meat.....oh you want a potato? That’s $10 more, side salad another $10, a glass of iced tea, another $10 and so on. By the time you get done it’s $100 a head for what you could have had better in a meal package from Longhorn for $25. I’m very happy with my Enthoo Elite. Yeah it was an arm and a leg, came in a massive shipping crate but you know what? Every part for every conceivable configuration came in the case for less than the Caselabs I was looking at with a bolt on basement with nothing in it. It was worth the $900. Want two systems in one case, parts are in there. Two GPUs mounted vertically? Parts are in there, a million drive cages? Parts are in there? Cage up top for internal display or two 5” drive bays? Parts are in there. Box with 1000 screw? In the crate. The most complete set up any way you want no extra add on a orders needed I’ve ever seen. I was teetering between this case and a 1000D but what killed the 1000D was they advertised you could put a pair of 480s up top by just buying a different slide out tray. Comes with a tray in front for two 480s and single 420 up top that are interchangeable. To this day you still cannot but the replacement tray for the top to make it where you can have 4X 480s. A few places are doing custom made ones but nothing in the US. They were very heavy on the point in initial marketing. In the Enthoo elite the most you can fit is a 480 in the bottom, 480 mid, 420 top and 560 in the front or all positions swapable with 140mm fan variants. Just a matter of how much will fit and leave you room to get to the ports.
> Now after that mouthful I’m pulling 2 rads out and putting the MORA inline and flipping my GPUs back to normal position to open up PCIE slots to put my pair of Intel AIC optane drives back in and have the MORA quick connects on a PCIE bracket. Also gives me access to my buttons on the bottom. Don’t know why ASUS moved all that to the bottom left from the top right when going from RVIE to the Omega and Encore. They did improve board layout somewhat with the Encore over the Omega. Seemed the Omega was a bit of a rush just then the Encore refined with a better layout and better VRMs.


I am reading more about cxl nvme. Apparently intel dumped optane on consumer side for cxl nvme. 2023 is going to be interesting upgrade year for sure


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I am reading more about cxl nvme. Apparently intel dumped optane on consumer side for cxl nvme. 2023 is going to be interesting upgrade year for sure


Sounds like it should give better low latency and faster low que depth performance. That’s the reason I run optane drives in the first place. Everyone seems to focus on large file sequential read and write speeds which is great if you are copy and pasting large media files all day but doesn’t do any favors for running an OS that is comprised mostly of small files. When I compare my low que depth 4K on optane drives against the best thing Samsung has to offer its 6 times faster. VROC kills the latency as any raid does but with 4 optane drives in VROC I can get 10GB/s sequential VS about 3.8GB/S on Samsung and even with the added latency triple the low que depth speeds over the Samsung. Things are always evolving. I have 2.5” Samsung drives in raid0 for media files, OS is on optane and games loaded on 970 EVO + NVME drives. If I take my GPUs out of vertical mount I can put two AIC cards that have been collecting dust which is what I started with in the R6E. When R6EE made it possible to VROC the DIMM.2 and Intel finally came out with M.2 Optane drives that’s where my OS and productivity apps currently reside.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Latest build with the 3090 and Foundations V2 incl. RGB shroud.

Really need a block lol


----------



## CluckyTaco

Wow that is an epic build with the Sliger SV590. I didn't know you could mount the fans externally with the radiator inside. BTW are you going to release your mounts for the 140mm rads? For some reason I thought they were out there but I could find it on your site. Once I get an optimus waterblock I'd be down for that RGB module as well.


----------



## sakete

I'm still waiting for that endgame super tower dual chamber case with lots of rad space, and lots of hard drive space. Hope Lian Li makes one someday, as their build quality is generally very good.

My current Phanteks Enthoo 719 will suffice, but it's not the best case. Has pretty bad airflow and build quality isn't the best (very thin sheet metal everywhere, flexes like crazy).


----------



## mmmz

Can any of y'all that got your blocks share some pics? I'm trying to decide between the black and silver backplates for when they come back in stock. But there aren't many pics of these things around yet!


----------



## _cycl0ne

Has anyone that ordered an AM4 block on 12/24 received anything from Optimus yet? They were supposed to ship two weeks ago :/


----------



## whaleboy_4096

_cycl0ne said:


> Has anyone that ordered an AM4 block on 12/24 received anything from Optimus yet? They were supposed to ship two weeks ago :/


I ordered one on Nov 2, and still don't have it. In fairness, I also ordered an FTW block at the same time, so i am assuming they are shipping it out when the GPU block ships (I'll be pretty upset if the GPU block shows up without the CPU one).


----------



## LiquidHaus

CluckyTaco said:


> Wow that is an epic build with the Sliger SV590. I didn't know you could mount the fans externally with the radiator inside. BTW are you going to release your mounts for the 140mm rads? For some reason I thought they were out there but I could find it on your site. Once I get an optimus waterblock I'd be down for that RGB module as well.


Thanks! Yeah I didn't want to compromise in cooling for this case. The EK Vardars perform well and these X3M variants look great once mounted. Figured it'd be the best fan choice for the build. 

As for the 140mm radiator stands, yes. I do have plans to release them. 120mm stands are somewhat close to selling out, so once I get another batch made, the 140mm will be included in that batch. Spread the word if you can. The faster the 120mm sells, the sooner the 140mm will be available.


----------



## Keith Myers

_cycl0ne said:


> Has anyone that ordered an AM4 block on 12/24 received anything from Optimus yet? They were supposed to ship two weeks ago :/


I ordered a pump/reservoir on 12/28 and still haven't received it.


----------



## Palito93

Anyone got a shipping notification this week for the FTW3 blocks?

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Johnny_Utah

Palito93 said:


> Anyone got a shipping notification this week for the FTW3 blocks?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Nope nothing here yet.

Perhaps an update from @Optimus WC ?


----------



## evilbob2200

Johnny_Utah said:


> Nope nothing here yet.
> 
> Perhaps an update from @Optimus WC ?


same would really like to hear an update since i was pretty early in batch 2 . i wanna know if the blocks arrived on friday like they said


----------



## Edge0fsanity

evilbob2200 said:


> same would really like to hear an update since i was pretty early in batch 2 . i wanna know if the blocks arrived on friday like they said


I'm fairly early at 2829 as well. No update from Optimus and no reports of shipping, I'm going to go with a no on that.


----------



## evilbob2200

Edge0fsanity said:


> I'm fairly early at 2829 as well. No update from Optimus and no reports of shipping, I'm going to go with a no on that.


yep mine is 2814


----------



## evilbob2200

a few days ago someone mentioned 2808 was a confirmed shipped order.


----------



## dan5ro

evilbob2200 said:


> a few days ago someone mentioned 2808 was a confirmed shipped order.


If that is so, I would be pretty confused since I am 2803 and have yet to hear a word from Optimus... The wait continues I suppose.


----------



## DedRonin

dan5ro said:


> If that is so, I would be pretty confused since I am 2803 and have yet to hear a word from Optimus... The wait continues I suppose.


I went back and checked their Twitter page. The claim was 2806 and another guy stating that their order number was earlier than his so I'm not sure what the deal is there. Color choice maybe? Beats me.


----------



## evilbob2200

DedRonin said:


> I went back and checked their Twitter page. The claim was 2806 and another guy stating that their order number was earlier than his so I'm not sure what the deal is there. Color choice maybe? Beats me.


interesting well hopefully we start getting some more stuff shipped...


----------



## Palito93

DedRonin said:


> I went back and checked their Twitter page. The claim was 2806 and another guy stating that their order number was earlier than his so I'm not sure what the deal is there. Color choice maybe? Beats me.


I don't think there were any color options for the second batch of the ftw3 block?
I'm 2854 and maybe i was already too late, but if I recall correctly i could only select nickel plated with the XL backplate

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## DedRonin

I was able to choose from silver or satin black and went with black for the xl backplate.


----------



## Palito93

DedRonin said:


> I was able to choose from silver or satin black and went with black for the xl backplate.


Oh okay nevermind then. Maybe the other option was sold out when I ordered

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## whaleboy_4096

I was later than all of you, and I had the choice of silver or black (which i chose). The options that were not available for me (or anyone I think) were copper block and slim backplate.


----------



## Palito93

whaleboy_4096 said:


> I was later than all of you, and I had the choice of silver or black (which i chose). The options that were not available for me (or anyone I think) were copper block and slim backplate.


Nevermind then, I must've been blind lol. 

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## evilbob2200

the wait is now much harder that i actually have an ftw3 and this block is literally the last piece i need for my loop lol


----------



## Edge0fsanity

evilbob2200 said:


> the wait is now much harder that i actually have an ftw3 and this block is literally the last piece i need for my loop lol


Been there since mid Nov, its been hard to say the least. At least I was able to get a Kingpin to hold me over while I wait.


----------



## straha20

I have my loop up and running. Still finishing up my build 3090, 5900x , but initial temps on my 3090 are 23c room ambient, and the 3090 temps stabilize out at 30c under extended full load. This is with stock settings, but still...


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC can I get a reply to my email and or pm?


----------



## evilbob2200

Edge0fsanity said:


> Been there since mid Nov, its been hard to say the least. At least I was able to get a Kingpin to hold me over while I wait.


i mean this wait is still nothing compared to the waits ive had for custom lightsabers but still annoying


----------



## Shawnb99

evilbob2200 said:


> i mean this wait is still nothing compared to the waits ive had for custom lightsabers but still annoying


How many do you have? Can only wield two at once anyways, wait you’re not a droid are you?


----------



## evilbob2200

Shawnb99 said:


> How many do you have? Can only wield two at once anyways, wait you’re not a droid are you?


Lol i have like 16 fine additions to my collection... the one with the longest wait is approaching 20 months ( i decided to have them put it on hold for several of those months waiting for newer electronics that were on the horizon), the smith had trouble getting the new stuff which i was expecting... then corona happened. i also asked to delay twice because a hit and run set me back financially in 2019 as well.


----------



## dan5ro

Just got shipping notification for my block this morning. Order number is 2803.


----------



## evilbob2200

dan5ro said:


> Just got shipping notification for my block this morning. Order number is 2803.


awesome hopefully that means theres gonna be more movement


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, news: 

*BLEMISH BLOCK SALE - 20%-40% off msrp.*









Blemish Block Sale







optimuspc.com





As previously mentioned, we're blowing out our blemish b-grade products. We have lots of b-grade because we're hyper picky about shipping the best stuff.

*SHIPPING TIME: 2-3 days.* most blemish product has already been built, it just needs to get packaged up and go in a box. The reservoirs aren't assembled, you can pick and choose what colors/sizes you want and we'll put it together for you.

For most people, you won't notice the blemishes unless you look close. Blemishes can be small scratches, scuffs, discolored smudge, etc. Typically, it's one small blem, not an entire area. At first glace, the product will look a-grade, unless you start examining closely. Performance is the same, so A+. The goal for blemish was to have product that would look A-grade in a final PC build where you're looking at it from a distance, not taking macro photos to post on social. 

We have lots of Signatures and reservoirs, handfuls of Foundation blocks, handful of threadripper and a number of flex 10/16mm fittings. 

*GPU BLOCK UPDATE:* 
More blocks went out today. We're told the next grouping of approx 50 plated parts comes back next tues. We'll work late into the night assembling to get all those out the next day. We're entirely at the mercy of the plating and anodizing companies. Then the final two groupings will arrive the week after, but we don't have confirmed ETAs from them yet. 

*REGULAR INVENTORY SALES - TOMORROW:*
All previous orders will ship out end of this week or beginning of next. It's a plating thing, so turnaround is about 2-3 weeks. We'll open up A-grade product tomorrow again, for a 2 week rough turnaround. 

*FUTURE GPU SALES: THIS FRIDAY*
We'll start selling again this friday. By friday, we'll have made parts for every single backorder, as well as quantity for future regular inventory orders. So we'll be freed up to make more GPUs. We'll only start selling GPUs that are in progress -- meaning, the machines are literally making them when you order. We won't do big batches, we'll do weekly groups, with updates when more are actively being made.


----------



## atzemis

Will there be blemish FTW3 blocks or was that a misunderstanding?


----------



## Optimus WC

If someone wants a blemish FTW that has already ordered, we can ship it out asap. Once we're done with all FTW orders, we'll make blemish FTW available.


----------



## mmmz

@Optimus WC Roughly what time on Friday?


----------



## Optimus WC

mmmz said:


> @Optimus WC Roughly what time on Friday?


Noon Eastern i'll make it live.


----------



## anr11

Optimus WC said:


> Noon Eastern i'll make it live.


Does noon eastern also apply to the regular inventory A-grade product for tomorrow?


----------



## Optimus WC

anr11 said:


> Does noon eastern also apply to the regular inventory A-grade product for tomorrow?


I can make that happen


----------



## anr11

Optimus WC said:


> I can make that happen


Cool beans! Thanks. I'll be on the lookout.


----------



## Johnny_Utah

Optimus WC said:


> If someone wants a blemish FTW that has already ordered, we can ship it out asap. Once we're done with all FTW orders, we'll make blemish FTW available.


How should I contact you regarding this?


----------



## Optimus WC

Johnny_Utah said:


> How should I contact you regarding this?


DMs, though I already responded to your email, might have gone to spam. We'll make it happen.


----------



## evilbob2200

Optimus WC said:


> I can make that happen


any cold plates going live?


----------



## Johnny_Utah

Optimus WC said:


> DMs, though I already responded to your email, might have gone to spam. We'll make it happen.


Thanks for the quick reply--yup sent ya a DM but am not showing a response.


----------



## Optimus WC

evilbob2200 said:


> any cold plates going live?


Extra cold plates? Prob not right away, since they're slated for blocks.


----------



## evilbob2200

Optimus WC said:


> Extra cold plates? Prob not right away, since they're slated for blocks.


yeah, wanted to get a nickel cold plate for my am4 foundation block so it matches my ftw3 block when it arrives.


----------



## Grumfuddock

Order #2805, just got my shipping notification


----------



## evilbob2200

looks like ill prob be next week the since im 2814 time to get hyped and make sure I have everything that i need haha


----------



## sakete

@Optimus WC I sent you an email and PM recently. Any thoughts on when I'll hear back from you?


----------



## CluckyTaco

Optimus WC said:


> I can make that happen


I'm down for that. Thank you!!


----------



## RichKnecht

Just ordered a Foundation to replace my V2. Black with nickel looks great.


----------



## originxt

@JustinThyme You get a chance to test sig v2 vs the foundation?


----------



## oreonutz

Taking advantage of this Blemish Sale to grab me some Famed Optimus Fittings. I just am not sure if 8 is enough. Finally feeling the squeeze from Covid, so trying to not spend as much, but couldn't pass up this opportunity! Appreciate the sale @Optimus WC


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Would anyone have a P-Q curve of the Signature V2 vs. the V1? 

@Optimus WC


----------



## RichKnecht

Voodoo Rufus said:


> Would anyone have a P-Q curve of the Signature V2 vs. the V1?
> 
> @Optimus WC


 If you want or need a V2........


----------



## JustinThyme

originxt said:


> @JustinThyme You get a chance to test sig v2 vs the foundation?


I have run the Sig V2 on a 9940X that was comparable to what Thrash got out of the box with a foundation. I’ve run the Sig V2 and all nickel Magnitude and acrylic magnitude on a 9940X and 10980XE with comparable results. I just received the foundation and right now waiting on one part to come in as I have other work to do with the loop. It should be here soon. Then l’ll run them all apples to apples on a 10980XE at 4.8 GHz as that’s a good heat load without getting to crazy with it. I may just put the foundation in before I do the loop work so I don’t have to do all of them over again. It’s the draining and replacing that sucks with a hardline system. Be easier if I had a test bench with quick disconnects but I don’t. I’m adding a 420 MORA3 (that will have quick disconnects leaving the case) that is certain to drop the liquid temp under load. So maybe it’s a better bet just to put the foundation in and see how it does as is as I’ve already run the others in identical configuration with nothing but changing the blocks. Stay tuned. I know thrash did initial runs but then went to lapping and modifying in a very short period. My aim was as the manufacturers asked. Out of the box without modifications and that’s what I did. What I can tell you is when we were going head to head they were about the same on the max core temps topping out at about 80C on the same chips. I think his spread was a little tighter but that will vary chip to chip. I’ll have something up before the weekend is out, possibly before.


----------



## straha20




----------



## straha20

It would have been so nice to have a backplate with the Optimus branding right side up 

@Optimus WC Could you make me one, and I'll trade this one in for it?


----------



## oreonutz

straha20 said:


>


I am so jealous! That is beautiful!


----------



## JustinThyme

straha20 said:


> It would have been so nice to have a backplate with the Optimus branding right side up
> 
> @Optimus WC Could you make me one, and I'll trade this one in for it?


Now we need thermals. Looks ain't everything. Ive had some beautiful looking blocks make it to the wall of shame because they didn't perform for shyte.
Backplate logo isnt upside down, the install is! LOL If you can come out of a heavy GPU load running the clocks full bore for 30 mins or more and not pass 40C without blowing AC into your case then you are good.


----------



## originxt

JustinThyme said:


> I have run the Sig V2 on a 9940X that was comparable to what Thrash got out of the box with a foundation. I’ve run the Sig V2 and all nickel Magnitude and acrylic magnitude on a 9940X and 10980XE with comparable results. I just received the foundation and right now waiting on one part to come in as I have other work to do with the loop. It should be here soon. Then l’ll run them all apples to apples on a 10980XE at 4.8 GHz as that’s a good heat load without getting to crazy with it. I may just put the foundation in before I do the loop work so I don’t have to do all of them over again. It’s the draining and replacing that sucks with a hardline system. Be easier if I had a test bench with quick disconnects but I don’t. I’m adding a 420 MORA3 (that will have quick disconnects leaving the case) that is certain to drop the liquid temp under load. So maybe it’s a better bet just to put the foundation in and see how it does as is as I’ve already run the others in identical configuration with nothing but changing the blocks. Stay tuned. I know thrash did initial runs but then went to lapping and modifying in a very short period. My aim was as the manufacturers asked. Out of the box without modifications and that’s what I did. What I can tell you is when we were going head to head they were about the same on the max core temps topping out at about 80C on the same chips. I think his spread was a little tighter but that will vary chip to chip. I’ll have something up before the weekend is out, possibly before.


No rush dude. I was just curious if there is any difference since I think they use the same coldplate. I also am currently running it at 4.8ghz.

I think I need more rads, 10980xe and 3090 gets the water to about the mid 30s.


----------



## JustinThyme

originxt said:


> No rush dude. I was just curious if there is any difference since I think they use the same coldplate. I also am currently running it at 4.8ghz.
> 
> I think I need more rads, 10980xe and 3090 gets the water to about the mid 30s.


Ye the cold plates are identical. I was curious is the little bit of give you get from the acrylic is enough to allow it to mold to the IHS a little better insteald of the stiff Sig V2. Ill know soon enough.
Yeah Mid 30s isnt completely horrible, Ive seen worse with people asking about mid 40s and higher and Im like WHAT??!! My aquaero controller keeps mine at minimim speed 28C and bellow and top end is 30C. Im running the 10980XE and two 2080Tis.

3X D5 pumps, GTR 420 rad, 480XE, GTS 360 and 360SE. That all about to change up a bit. Im moving the GTR 420 to the bottom and GTS360 to the front and yanking the other two and putting this monster in the loop......


----------



## JustinThyme

This is after a cool down from a 30 min CB23 run, the MORA controller is just set up and ready to go, feeding the 480 and 420 ATM


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, news:
> 
> *BLEMISH BLOCK SALE - 20%-40% off msrp.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blemish Block Sale
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> optimuspc.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As previously mentioned, we're blowing out our blemish b-grade products. We have lots of b-grade because we're hyper picky about shipping the best stuff.
> 
> *SHIPPING TIME: 2-3 days.* most blemish product has already been built, it just needs to get packaged up and go in a box. The reservoirs aren't assembled, you can pick and choose what colors/sizes you want and we'll put it together for you.
> 
> For most people, you won't notice the blemishes unless you look close. Blemishes can be small scratches, scuffs, discolored smudge, etc. Typically, it's one small blem, not an entire area. At first glace, the product will look a-grade, unless you start examining closely. Performance is the same, so A+. The goal for blemish was to have product that would look A-grade in a final PC build where you're looking at it from a distance, not taking macro photos to post on social.
> 
> We have lots of Signatures and reservoirs, handfuls of Foundation blocks, handful of threadripper and a number of flex 10/16mm fittings.
> 
> *GPU BLOCK UPDATE:*
> More blocks went out today. We're told the next grouping of approx 50 plated parts comes back next tues. We'll work late into the night assembling to get all those out the next day. We're entirely at the mercy of the plating and anodizing companies. Then the final two groupings will arrive the week after, but we don't have confirmed ETAs from them yet.
> 
> *REGULAR INVENTORY SALES - TOMORROW:*
> All previous orders will ship out end of this week or beginning of next. It's a plating thing, so turnaround is about 2-3 weeks. We'll open up A-grade product tomorrow again, for a 2 week rough turnaround.
> 
> *FUTURE GPU SALES: THIS FRIDAY*
> We'll start selling again this friday. By friday, we'll have made parts for every single backorder, as well as quantity for future regular inventory orders. So we'll be freed up to make more GPUs. We'll only start selling GPUs that are in progress -- meaning, the machines are literally making them when you order. We won't do big batches, we'll do weekly groups, with updates when more are actively being made.


Great News


----------



## Section31

oreonutz said:


> Taking advantage of this Blemish Sale to grab me some Famed Optimus Fittings. I just am not sure if 8 is enough. Finally feeling the squeeze from Covid, so trying to not spend as much, but couldn't pass up this opportunity! Appreciate the sale @Optimus WC
> 
> View attachment 2476149


Won’t regret it


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> If someone wants a blemish FTW that has already ordered, we can ship it out asap. Once we're done with all FTW orders, we'll make blemish FTW available.


Thanks for update. Going to order friday then. Please don’t ship b stock order though. Ship with my soon to be ordered GPU blocks


----------



## Shawnb99

30 Matte black fittings ordered!

@Optimus WC can we get a picture of the matte black and satin black beside each other?


----------



## Optimus WC

straha20 said:


>


Damn! That looks amazing, the LEDs pop like crazy. How did you attach the LED strip? And what strip did you use? We get lots of questions. 

And as for the backplate, the logo is the right side up, it's the world that's upside down. Technically, flipping the logo isn't hard. Getting the engineers and machinists to do it is another story. One-off requests aren't really in the cards, especially since, well, other cards need blocks  Don't wanna delay KPE, Strix, etc.


----------



## Optimus WC

FLAT SIGNATURE BLOCKS:
So we have blem Flat versions on the site. We actually have a bunch of them here that look near perfect, but we're blowing them out. We prob won't make any again, since it's a niche thing that guys here like to try out.

The FLATS have the same cold plate, etc. The only diff is a recess in the plateau that makes the o-ring push less against the cold plate, thus no bow. It's useful for lapped. And potentially certain 10th gen Intel IHS, which is why Justin's and others results are strange. We know, from a thermodynamic perspective, our surface area and overall performance murders other designs. It's the IHS contact with some strange IHS designs, esp Intel since there has been little consistency recently. When the next gen of CPUs drop, we'll reevaluate the Intel IHS issue and see what (if anything) they've changed.

Anyway, Sig flats for the funs. If anyone wants just a flat blem sig top (no cold plate), let me know here.


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> 30 Matte black fittings ordered!
> 
> @Optimus WC can we get a picture of the matte black and satin black beside each other?


Here ya go, and I'll respond to your emails shortly, things have been crazy!

And for the curious, the reason we ditched the matte finish is because the matte anodizing on other products like brackets and reservoirs was very inconsistent. Fittings turned out fine, but the bit products had a high rejection rate and were prone to scratching, and also sucked up finger prints like nothing else. I personally love the matte look, but the satin is pretty dang close in a build. You'll prob only notice a difference if you have them next to each other like this.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Here ya go, and I'll respond to your emails shortly, things have been crazy!
> 
> And for the curious, the reason we ditched the matte finish is because the matte anodizing on other products like brackets and reservoirs was very inconsistent. Fittings turned out fine, but the bit products had a high rejection rate and were prone to scratching, and also sucked up finger prints like nothing else. I personally love the matte look, but the satin is pretty dang close in a build. You'll prob only notice a difference if you have them next to each other like this.
> 
> View attachment 2476239



Thanks. The Matte looks really nice, should match my case and radiators perfect.


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> FLAT SIGNATURE BLOCKS:
> So we have blem Flat versions on the site. We actually have a bunch of them here that look near perfect, but we're blowing them out. We prob won't make any again, since it's a niche thing that guys here like to try out.
> 
> The FLATS have the same cold plate, etc. The only diff is a recess in the plateau that makes the o-ring push less against the cold plate, thus no bow. It's useful for lapped. And potentially certain 10th gen Intel IHS, which is why Justin's and others results are strange. We know, from a thermodynamic perspective, our surface area and overall performance murders other designs. It's the IHS contact with some strange IHS designs, esp Intel since there has been little consistency recently. When the next gen of CPUs drop, we'll reevaluate the Intel IHS issue and see what (if anything) they've changed.
> 
> Anyway, Sig flats for the funs. If anyone wants just a flat blem sig top (no cold plate), let me know here.


Yeah send me a flat blem to try out and see what I get on a 10980XE.


----------



## RichKnecht

The IHS on my 10980XE is raised in the center, probably typical. I find that getting ideal contact between my V2 and the IHS is almost impossible. It will take me 4-5 mounts to really get the core spread even and after a bit of time, the core spread seems to get worse. Will a flat V2 fix that? I already ordered a Foundation in hopes of it working better for my situation. Either way, it's still better than the Supremacy it replaced.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Damn! That looks amazing, the LEDs pop like crazy. How did you attach the LED strip? And what strip did you use? We get lots of questions.
> 
> And as for the backplate, the logo is the right side up, it's the world that's upside down. Technically, flipping the logo isn't hard. Getting the engineers and machinists to do it is another story. One-off requests aren't really in the cards, especially since, well, other cards need blocks  Don't wanna delay KPE, Strix, etc.


Thanks! I am pretty pleased with how it turned out as well. The LED strip is just a high density 144 argb strip off of Amazon that I attached with some 3M clear acrylic VHB tape. The block took 41 LEDs end to end. I left the backing on the tape so the underside wouldn't be sticky, and it turned out to be a perfect snug fit between the block and the armor on the Crosshair Hero VII motherboard. I obviously sleeved the cable. I was originally hesitant about it because you can see the individual LEDS, rather than giving a neon strip effect, but after seeing it in place, I quite like the look.


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> Thanks! I am pretty pleased with how it turned out as well. The LED strip is just a high density 144 argb strip off of Amazon that I attached with some 3M clear acrylic VHB tape. The block took 41 LEDs end to end. I left the backing on the tape so the underside wouldn't be sticky, and it turned out to be a perfect snug fit between the block and the armor on the Crosshair Hero VII motherboard. I obviously sleeved the cable. I was originally hesitant about it because you can see the individual LEDS, rather than giving a neon strip effect, but after seeing it in place, I quite like the look.


Nice build. Makes me want to quicken up my the custom work i need to get done on my caselabs lol


----------



## dwolvin

straha20 said:


> Thanks! I am pretty pleased with how it turned out as well. The LED strip is just a high density 144 argb strip off of Amazon that I attached with some 3M clear acrylic VHB tape. The block took 41 LEDs end to end. I left the backing on the tape so the underside wouldn't be sticky, and it turned out to be a perfect snug fit between the block and the armor on the Crosshair Hero VII motherboard.  I obviously sleeved the cable. I was originally hesitant about it because you can see the individual LEDS, rather than giving a neon strip effect, but after seeing it in place, I quite like the look.


I have to ask, is the color scheme related to a particular restaurant by chance? (beautiful build btw)


----------



## straha20

dwolvin said:


> I have to ask, is the color scheme related to a particular restaurant by chance? (beautiful build btw)


Not a specific restaurant per se, more going for a broader Retro Diner feel.


----------



## dwolvin

Gotcha! (I felt 5 Guys / In-N-Out)


----------



## straha20

dwolvin said:


> Gotcha! (I felt 5 Guys / In-N-Out)


And Steak n Shake


----------



## Shawnb99

dwolvin said:


> Gotcha! (I felt 5 Guys / In-N-Out)


Now I want 5 guys.. thanks for that!
That really feels wrong to say...


----------



## straha20

Shawnb99 said:


> Now I want 5 guys.. thanks for that!
> That really feels wrong to say...


a little In-N-Out to go with the 5 guys...


----------



## evilbob2200

Shawnb99 said:


> Now I want 5 guys.. thanks for that!
> That really feels wrong to say...


i want a burger from my local diner miner dunn best smash burgers this side of chicago


----------



## dwolvin

Mmm Smashburger... Well, I know what's happening to the tri-tip defrosting in the fridge!


----------



## evilbob2200

dwolvin said:


> Mmm Smashburger... Well, I know what's happening to the tri-tip defrosting in the fridge!


theyre the best burgers!!!


----------



## evilbob2200

also got my shipment notification for my block!!!! 2814 is in the books as shipped!!


----------



## originxt

Optimus WC said:


> FLAT SIGNATURE BLOCKS:
> So we have blem Flat versions on the site. We actually have a bunch of them here that look near perfect, but we're blowing them out. We prob won't make any again, since it's a niche thing that guys here like to try out.
> 
> The FLATS have the same cold plate, etc. The only diff is a recess in the plateau that makes the o-ring push less against the cold plate, thus no bow. It's useful for lapped. And potentially certain 10th gen Intel IHS, which is why Justin's and others results are strange. We know, from a thermodynamic perspective, our surface area and overall performance murders other designs. It's the IHS contact with some strange IHS designs, esp Intel since there has been little consistency recently. When the next gen of CPUs drop, we'll reevaluate the Intel IHS issue and see what (if anything) they've changed.
> 
> Anyway, Sig flats for the funs. If anyone wants just a flat blem sig top (no cold plate), let me know here.


I'd like to give the flat sig v2 a shot with my 10980xe. It was offered a while back for me but I never took the option because I figured my mount was bad. Willing to try it now.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Now I want 5 guys.. thanks for that!
> That really feels wrong to say...


I just spit out my drink! LMAO


----------



## sakete

Hmmm, looks like @Optimus WC is selectively ignoring all my messages. They promised me a block for sending in my XC3 card. I eventually sold the XC3 and got a FTW3 instead and they agreed no problem to switch from XC3 to FTW3 block (they for once responded to my request within minutes by email!). They said they'd get me early in batch 2.

Now it's just crickets when I ask for an update and details, but they do have time to respond to other people apparently. This is very frustrating. I've been waiting since early October.


----------



## evilbob2200

sakete said:


> Hmmm, looks like @Optimus WC is selectively ignoring all my messages. They promised me a block for sending in my XC3 card. I eventually sold the XC3 and got a FTW3 instead and they agreed no problem to switch from XC3 to FTW3 block (they for once responded to my request within minutes by email!). They said they'd get me early in batch 2.
> 
> Now it's just crickets when I ask for an update and details, but they do have time to respond to other people apparently. This is very frustrating.


_shrug_ its cool that you sent them your card and such but like they arguably have a bigger responsibility to the people who paid.


----------



## iquit040

evilbob2200 said:


> _shrug_ its cool that you sent them your card and such but like they arguably have a bigger responsibility to the people who paid.


I have felt the same selectively ignored messages via their web contact form and twitter. I understand they have a business to run and issues, but a quick response wouldn't be unreasonable, especially for Sakete who sent them a card.


----------



## evilbob2200

iquit040 said:


> I have felt the same selectively ignored messages via their web contact form and twitter. I understand they have a business to run and issues, but a quick response wouldn't be unreasonable, especially for Sakete who sent them a card.


true true id just blow up their inbox


----------



## JustinThyme

This is not a new development. One of their shortcomings is communication. I don’t know their workflow or work force but if the person answering emails and posts here also has a function in production which would you rather they do, sort through emails and messages or get the blocks made? Then there is the possibility of well I just don’t have a good answer to give. Just know communication is done by pony express. At first they were pretty quick (within a day or two) but also not yet popular. It is possible to grow past your capabilities driven purely by demand. The fact that people are still lined up after all that says something. I’m just waiting for someone to post thermals instead of aesthetics on the GPU blocks, extensive posts with data have already been made in the CPU blocks. Try hard enough and one can make a turd look good but it’s still a turd.


----------



## straha20

JustinThyme said:


> This is not a new development. One of their shortcomings is communication. I don’t know their workflow or work force but if the person answering emails and posts here also has a function in production which would you rather they do, sort through emails and messages or get the blocks made? Then there is the possibility of well I just don’t have a good answer to give. Just know communication is done by pony express. At first they were pretty quick (within a day or two) but also not yet popular. It is possible to grow past your capabilities driven purely by demand. The fact that people are still lined up after all that says something. I’m just waiting for someone to post thermals instead of aesthetics on the GPU blocks, extensive posts with data have already been made in the CPU blocks. Try hard enough and one can make a turd look good but it’s still a turd.


I honestly have minimal interest in doing extensive and rigorous testing, but I can at least provide provide one data point...

I just set my 3090 back to stock, and ran Heaven for 40 minutes. Ambient temp is 23c. As reported by MSI Afterburner, 100% gpu usage over the full 40 minutes, my clocks sat at 2010 mhz, and my GPU temps plateaued at 33c. Once I stopped Heaven, it took 75 seconds for my GPU temps to drop back to 24c idle. My CPU as reported by Ryzen master plateaued at 55c.


----------



## Palito93

straha20 said:


> I honestly have minimal interest in doing extensive and rigorous testing, but I can at least provide provide one data point...
> 
> I just set my 3090 back to stock, and ran Heaven for 40 minutes. Ambient temp is 23c. As reported by MSI Afterburner, 100% gpu usage over the full 40 minutes, my clocks sat at 2010 mhz, and my GPU temps plateaued at 33c. Once I stopped Heaven, it took 75 seconds for my GPU temps to drop back to 24c idle. My CPU as reported by Ryzen master plateaued at 55c.


What about memory temperatures? Are you able to check when you have a bit of spare time please?
How hot do they get? On air they hover around 65C i think on around 55% fans speed

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## straha20

Palito93 said:


> What about memory temperatures? Are you able to check when you have a bit of spare time please?
> How hot do they get? On air they hover around 65C i think on around 55% fans speed
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Kicking it off again, and monitoring in Precision X1. I'll post results in half an hour or so


----------



## Palito93

straha20 said:


> Kicking it off again, and monitoring in Precision X1. I'll post results in half an hour or so


Thank you for this.

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## sakete

evilbob2200 said:


> _shrug_ its cool that you sent them your card and such but like they arguably have a bigger responsibility to the people who paid.


Well, if it wasn't for people like me sending in cards, they would've developed exactly 0 blocks at this point. And they made a promise. Promises need to be kept, so the least they can do is respond to my emails and DMs.

Once I got them to send me back my GPU back in Nov, which was like pulling teeth, I've stayed pretty quiet to them, patiently waiting. But now I'd like an update and ETA (for what it's worth).


----------



## Phroz3

Anyone know if the Optimus gpu block will fit in the lian li o11 dynamic xl without hitting the glass?


----------



## onMute

Optimus WC said:


> And as for the backplate, the logo is the right side up, it's the world that's upside down. Technically, flipping the logo isn't hard. Getting the engineers and machinists to do it is another story. One-off requests aren't really in the cards, especially since, well, other cards need blocks  Don't wanna delay KPE, Strix, etc.


Bring on the KPE! What is the ETA?


----------



## straha20

deleted...double post


----------



## straha20

This is after around 40 minutes at 100% load.


----------



## evilbob2200

sakete said:


> Well, if it wasn't for people like me sending in cards, they would've developed exactly 0 blocks at this point. And they made a promise. Promises need to be kept, so the least they can do is respond to my emails and DMs.
> 
> Once I got them to send me back my GPU back in Nov, which was like pulling teeth, I've stayed pretty quiet to them, patiently waiting. But now I'd like an update and ETA (for what it's worth).


they promised you an xc3 block originally sure you got a different card and switched but their original obligation was for xc3 not the ftw3. Its great that you helped them but again it wasnt for the ftw3 block it wouldnt exactly be fair to the people that paid the ftw3 block for you to jump to the front of the line for a block you didnt help get made. the person who sent their ftw3 in already got theirs.


----------



## Mroberts95

Phroz3 said:


> Anyone know if the Optimus gpu block will fit in the lian li o11 dynamic xl without hitting the glass?


Yea it works just fine.


----------



## sakete

evilbob2200 said:


> they promised you an xc3 block originally sure you got a different card and switched but their original obligation was for xc3 not the ftw3. Its great that you helped them but again it wasnt for the ftw3 block it wouldnt exactly be fair to the people that paid the ftw3 block for you to jump to the front of the line for a block you didnt help get made. the person who sent their ftw3 in already got theirs.


You didn't read my messages clearly. I didn't ask to be put in front of anyone. They just promised it on their own initiative. I'm asking for an update and it's crickets. All I've ever been complaining about with Optimus is their lack of communication, and here I am complaining again after having been silent for two months.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Products - Optimus Water Cooling (optimuspc.com) 

There are some good deals on the "Blemish" blocks and fittings. Do the Foundation and Signature work with direct die?


----------



## Shawnb99

Using the Signature on my direct die 9900k no issues.


----------



## evilbob2200

sakete said:


> You didn't read my messages clearly. I didn't ask to be put in front of anyone. They just promised it on their own initiative. I'm asking for an update and it's crickets. All I've ever been complaining about with Optimus is their lack of communication, and here I am complaining again after having been silent for two months.


squeaky wheel gets the grease just blow up matts email


----------



## RichKnecht

I just did a little experiment with my V2. Whereas temps were really not an issue, I never liked the springless mounts. It took me a few tries before I got even pressure on the mount. This morning, I removed the block, cleaned it all up, and remounted the block using my old EK Supremacy EVO studs, springs, and nuts. The springs were a PITA, but due to the springs and stops on the EK studs, all 4 corners have the same pressure. Core temp spread is around 8C and overall max temps are 4C cooler with the same ambient and water temps. @Optimus, you need to rethink your mounting. For those using a V2, if you have some old EVO mounting hardware lying around, give it a shot and let me know how it goes.


----------



## evilbob2200

RichKnecht said:


> I just did a little experiment with my V2. Whereas temps were really not an issue, I never liked the springless mounts. It took me a few tries before I got even pressure on the mount. This morning, I removed the block, cleaned it all up, and remounted the block using my old EK Supremacy EVO studs, springs, and nuts. The springs were a PITA, but due to the springs and stops on the EK studs, all 4 corners have the same pressure. Core temp spread is around 8C and overall max temps are 4C cooler with the same ambient and water temps. @Optimus, you need to rethink your mounting. For those using a V2, if you have some old EVO mounting hardware lying around, give it a shot and let me know how it goes.


this makes me wish my torque driver didnt break recently lol


----------



## RichKnecht

evilbob2200 said:


> this makes me wish my torque driver didnt break recently lol


The V2 is VERY fussy with mounting. You have to tighten the 4 corners pretty even to get the most out of the block. Optimus should just clone the EK EVO Supremacy studs, springs, and thumb screws and include that mounting with their blocks. Works perfect.


----------



## Optimus WC

RichKnecht said:


> The V2 is VERY fussy with mounting. You have to tighten the 4 corners pretty even to get the most out of the block. Optimus should just clone the EK EVO Supremacy studs, springs, and thumb screws and include that mounting with their blocks. Works perfect.


The V1 and early V2 was spring-based. We still have boxes of springs. The springless mounting is superior performance, trust us  You need to do multiple runs with paste to get a consistent test, and often have it in an isolated temp controlled setup to take out variables. Springs are easy, but the hotter you go, you'll see a provable, repeatable difference between the two mounts. If the spring style had more performance, we def would keep shipping that.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Shawnb99 said:


> Using the Signature on my direct die 9900k no issues.


Does your Signature have a springless mount? My concern is that the springless mount is designed to take rhe IHS thickness into account


----------



## Optimus WC

0451 said:


> Does your Signature have a springless mount? My concern is that the springless mount is designed to take rhe IHS thickness into account


Springless mount doesn't have stops, so you're able to get perfect pressure and height on the die.


----------



## dng25

RichKnecht said:


> I just did a little experiment with my V2. Whereas temps were really not an issue, I never liked the springless mounts. It took me a few tries before I got even pressure on the mount. This morning, I removed the block, cleaned it all up, and remounted the block using my old EK Supremacy EVO studs, springs, and nuts. The springs were a PITA, but due to the springs and stops on the EK studs, all 4 corners have the same pressure. Core temp spread is around 8C and overall max temps are 4C cooler with the same ambient and water temps. @Optimus, you need to rethink your mounting. For those using a V2, if you have some old EVO mounting hardware lying around, give it a shot and let me know how it goes.


I got mine to within 4C spread.


----------



## Shawnb99

0451 said:


> Does your Signature have a springless mount? My concern is that the springless mount is designed to take rhe IHS thickness into account


Whatever the original mount was. Used with Rockitcool direct die mount and normal Signature. Never got to try it with the newer mount, least not yet. Still in tear down mode. Waiting on @Optimus WC to make that KPE block


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Shawnb99 said:


> Whatever the original mount was. Used with Rockitcool direct die mount and normal Signature. Never got to try it with the newer mount, least not yet. Still in tear down mode. Waiting on @Optimus WC to make that KPE block


Do you know if the mount has springs?

As for KP block, I will get either the Hydrocopper or Optimus, whatever comes first.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Optimus WC said:


> Springless mount doesn't have stops, so you're able to get perfect pressure and height on the die.


Thank you. Is the height adjustable to switch between direct die and IHS configuration?


----------



## RichKnecht

dng25 said:


> I got mine to within 4C spread.
> View attachment 2476409


4C is great. 8C is great too considering I have twice as many cores.


----------



## RichKnecht

Optimus WC said:


> The V1 and early V2 was spring-based. We still have boxes of springs. The springless mounting is superior performance, trust us  You need to do multiple runs with paste to get a consistent test, and often have it in an isolated temp controlled setup to take out variables. Springs are easy, but the hotter you go, you'll see a provable, repeatable difference between the two mounts. If the spring style had more performance, we def would keep shipping that.


I love my V2, but having to use a whole tube of TIM to get the mount just right is crazy. Like I said, used my EVO mounts and my 10980XE is running with max temps of 70C with all cores @ 4.7 with 1.18V. The best max temps I got with your mount were ~74C with the same OC and TIM (Kingpin) that your block comes with. I ordered a blemish Foundation, but maybe I should have ordered a blemish flat V2.


----------



## straha20

Complete sidenote here...it was nice that the FTW3 block came with enough KPX paste to do both my gpu and CPU.


----------



## Palito93

straha20 said:


> Complete sidenote here...it was nice that the FTW3 block came with enough KPX paste to do both my gpu and CPU.


That's good to know, I wanted to replace my paste on my cpu with some kpx. I'm glad i don't have to buy more

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## straha20

Palito93 said:


> That's good to know, I wanted to replace my paste on my cpu with some kpx. I'm glad i don't have to buy more
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Well, there was only enough paste for both if you get it right on both the first time.


----------



## Section31

Now its time for the waiting for me. Got my order in. One expensive block, 400usd Block not including sales taxes.


----------



## Phroz3

Same here. Almost 400. Didn't charge tax for some odd reason.


----------



## straha20

Section31 said:


> Now its time for the waiting for me. Got my order in. One expensive block, 400usd Block not including sales taxes.


Over on the EVGA forums, someone posted their mildly overclocked Precision X! temps screen after a 30 minute Heaven Run. I applied the same OC to my card and ran for half an hour. Their card was under an AlphaCool block and mine was under my Optimus. My GPU core temps were 12c cooler, memory tempos were around 7c cooler, and power phases were 10c cooler.

My numbers...


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> Over on the EVGA forums, someone posted their mildly overclocked Precision X! temps screen after a 30 minute Heaven Run. I applied the same OC to my card and ran for half an hour. Their card was under an AlphaCool block and mine was under my Optimus. My GPU core temps were 12c cooler, memory tempos were around 7c cooler, and power phases were 10c cooler.
> 
> My numbers...


Hahaha I saw that earlier. Made me feel better about my decision to get the optimus this morning so thanks for that  Love those checkers on your box. Make it look like it has that 50s vibe.


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> Hahaha I saw that earlier. Made me feel better about my decision to get the optimus this morning so thanks for that  Love those checkers on your box. Make it look like it has that 50s vibe.


Thanks! Those are each individually hand cut and painted wood pieces


----------



## onMute

Shawnb99 said:


> Whatever the original mount was. Used with Rockitcool direct die mount and normal Signature. Never got to try it with the newer mount, least not yet. Still in tear down mode. Waiting on @Optimus WC to make that KPE block


...waiting here too


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Just pulled the trigger on a blemish Signature block and 18 x blemish 10/16 fittings. What's the best 10/16 rubber tubing?


----------



## dwolvin

zmt


----------



## gengar

0451 said:


> Just pulled the trigger on a blemish Signature block and 18 x blemish 10/16 fittings. What's the best 10/16 rubber tubing?


I use Tygon Neoprene for all my builds. Be aware there is branding stamped along the tube, but it does rub off, if you care enough.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

gengar said:


> I use Tygon Neoprene for all my builds. Be aware there is branding stamped along the tube, but it does rub off, if you care enough.


I’m going with black tubing. Is anybody else using black tubing? If so, what kind? This is all I could find for PC watercooling.









EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm (3m RETAIL)


EK ZMT (Zero Maintenance Tubing) is a high quality, zero maintenance industrial grade EPDM rubber tubing in stylish matte black. Excellent resistance to aging, weathering, ozone and UV! Internal diameter (ID): 9,5mm (3/8




www.ekwb.com


----------



## Keith Myers

It's all Tygon Norprene, no matter the branding. If you live in the U.S. you can purchase Tygon Neoprene or Norprene black tubing at industrial houses, Graingers or McMaster-Carr.

Save on bulk and shipping compared to EK.

If you live in a major city, you can walk into a Graingers and pick it up.


----------



## RichKnecht

I use PrimoChill gloss black tubing. It can be hard to get onto some fittings, but I warm it up and have no issues.


----------



## trentrog

Just finished this up. I opted for a blemished block and to be honest, I couldn’t find the defects.


----------



## evilbob2200

ITS ALIVE!!!


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> Hahaha I saw that earlier. Made me feel better about my decision to get the optimus this morning so thanks for that  Love those checkers on your box. Make it look like it has that 50s vibe.


Someone just posted about their EVGA 3090 FTW3 with an EK block on the EVGA forums. 53c, so temps not great unless they have over clocked the bejeesus out of that card.


----------



## straha20

One thing I am going to do when I take my loop apart for maintenance is cut out that backplate thermal pad poking through the pcb holes.


----------



## LiquidHaus

straha20 said:


> One thing I am going to do when I take my loop apart for maintenance is cut out that backplate thermal pad poking through the pcb holes.


I am SO GLAD someone finally mentioned this. Personally seeing every FTW3 blocked now is driving me nuts to see this bulging thermal pad coming through the PCB cutouts.


----------



## straha20

LiquidHaus said:


> I am SO GLAD someone finally mentioned this. Personally seeing every FTW3 blocked now is driving me nuts to see this bulging thermal pad coming through the PCB cutouts.


It didn't even cross my mind when I was putting it together, and then once I had it together and saw it, I was not about to take it off because I was very confident in my mount, and just made a mental note to fix it during maintenance.


----------



## dan5ro

Hmm, when I air test my optimus gpu block alone (no higher than 0.5-0.6 bar), it starts to leak air. Checked terminal orings and gasket seems to be uniformly compressed around entire perimeter. Last thing I can think of checking is the coldplate and I am not looking forward to that at all.


----------



## LiquidHaus

dan5ro said:


> Hmm, when I air test my optimus gpu block alone (no higher than 0.5-0.6 bar), it starts to leak air. Checked terminal orings and gasket seems to be uniformly compressed around entire perimeter. Last thing I can think of checking is the coldplate and I am not looking forward to that at all.


Run a mini loop with just the block to see where it's leaking, or fill it with air again and spray soapy water around the edges where the o-rings are at and see where it bubbles.


----------



## dan5ro

LiquidHaus said:


> Run a mini loop with just the block to see where it's leaking, or fill it with air again and spray soapy water around the edges where the o-rings are at and see where it bubbles.


I’ll give that a shot

Edit: am4 block seems to be fine, my mistake. Now to check gpu block

Edit 2: I am a moron, it works fine. Air tester user error... brain fart and didn’t close the valve for some reason when I did for all my other loop segment testing... lol. First loop jitters.


----------



## JustinThyme

straha20 said:


> Over on the EVGA forums, someone posted their mildly overclocked Precision X! temps screen after a 30 minute Heaven Run. I applied the same OC to my card and ran for half an hour. Their card was under an AlphaCool block and mine was under my Optimus. My GPU core temps were 12c cooler, memory tempos were around 7c cooler, and power phases were 10c cooler.


Not bad. 
My last choice I think would be an alphacool or at least at the bottom of the list with Thermaltake Pacifica. My go to for the last few gens has been Heat Killer. They work well and are also aesthetically pleasing.

Whats your delta?


----------



## Eulerian

To you vertical mounters:

1. Are you using an x570?
2. Which riser cable?
3. Pcie3 or pcie4 mode?
4. Any issues, booting or performance, etc?


----------



## straha20

JustinThyme said:


> Not bad.
> My last choice I think would be an alphacool or at least at the bottom of the list with Thermaltake Pacifica. My go to for the last few gens has been Heat Killer. They work well and are also aesthetically pleasing.
> 
> Whats your delta?


No idea what my water temps are, but my ambient air is between 21 and 23. So my delta air is 12c gpu, 17c memory and pwr. With a 5900x in the same loop, that means the delta water is really good.


----------



## straha20

Eulerian said:


> To you vertical mounters:
> 
> 1. Are you using an x570?
> 2. Which riser cable?
> 3. Pcie3 or pcie4 mode?
> 4. Any issues, booting or performance, etc?


I am using a Crosshair Hero VIII horizontally mounted, so no need for a riser  I remember back in the day when all the motherboards were horizontal...


----------



## JustinThyme

straha20 said:


> No idea what my water temps are, but my ambient air is between 21 and 23. So my delta air is 12c gpu, 17c memory and pwr. With a 5900x in the same loop, that means the delta water is really good.


Kind of hard to tell without the liquid temp. A lot of things can change. CPU would have little to no load running heaven. Put luxmark on that puppy and see what you get. Heaven barely warms up two for me. Time spy extreme will throw some heat on it too.

bench in progess after warming it up so you can see the clocks and all the air and liquid temps at ultra settings. I get a 10C delta from liquid.


----------



## evilbob2200

im using a link up on x570 in pcie4 and im not seeing a performance loss at all and no issues.

also question about the fujipoly thermal pads for the optimus gpu block what thickness and type are they i wanted to pick up some spares just in case any get wrecked when i do maintenance on my loop.


----------



## straha20

JustinThyme said:


> Kind of hard to tell without the liquid temp. A lot of things can change. CPU would have little to no load running heaven. Put luxmark on that puppy and see what you get. Heaven barely warms up two for me. Time spy extreme will throw some heat on it too.
> 
> bench in progess after warming it up so you can see the clocks and all the air and liquid temps at ultra settings. I get a 10C delta from liquid.
> 
> View attachment 2476799


Well, we do know that the water temp has to be above ambient air, and below the lowest block sensor reading, so in my case above with Heaven, worst possible delta would be 12. 8 would be a reasonable estimate.


----------



## evilbob2200

straha20 said:


> Well, we do know that the water temp has to be above ambient air, and below the lowest block sensor reading, so in my case above with Heaven, worst possible delta would be 12. 8 would be a reasonable estimate.


my ambient is 18c. After gaming for an hour (currently playing horizon zero dawn) gpu temp is 34c (highest temp logged in hwinfo is 38c) and liquid temp is 30c. Horizon maintains a load on the gpu when you tab out according to px1.


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> One thing I am going to do when I take my loop apart for maintenance is cut out that backplate thermal pad poking through the pcb holes.


Thanks for pointing that out. Fujipoly is good and all but not pretty.


----------



## evilbob2200

Phroz3 said:


> Thanks for pointing that out. Fujipoly is good and all but not pretty.


this is true i might do the same haha speaking of the pads do we know the thickness and type of fuji poly pads thatre used for teh memory and such? Im pretty sure the back plate one is like 2mm not sure about the others... maybe .5mm? I wanted to get some extra just in case i wreck them during maintenance


----------



## Phroz3

evilbob2200 said:


> this is true i might do the same haha speaking of the pads do we know the thickness and type of fuji poly pads thatre used for teh memory and such? Im pretty sure the back plate one is like 2mm not sure about the others... maybe .5mm? I wanted to get some extra just in case i wreck them during maintenance


Front pads are .5mm and back is 3mm according to their site.


----------



## evilbob2200

Phroz3 said:


> Front pads are .5mm and back is 3mm according to their site.


theyre pretty damn thin like id compare the thickness to my health insurance card or a credit card. so prob 1mm or less


----------



## Phroz3

evilbob2200 said:


> theyre pretty damn thin like id compare the thickness to my health insurance card or a credit card. so prob 1mm or less


Thinner the better. I don't think the EK block has anything thinner than 1mm. I don't know how they (Optimus) are able to get down to .5mm with the unevenness of the power stages on these cards where the putty is/was.


----------



## KedarWolf

Phroz3 said:


> Thanks for pointing that out. Fujipoly is good and all but not pretty.


If anyone wants a decent but really cheap alternative to Fujipoly, Thermalright 12.8wm/k pads are on Amazon for like $11 for 85mmx45mm and if you wait a month for shipping, you can get 120mmx120mm on Aliexpress for about $8 USD, and Google a coupon, you can get $4 off on Aliexpress for a new customer or even if you just register with a new email.


----------



## evilbob2200

KedarWolf said:


> If anyone wants a decent but really cheap alternative to Fujipoly, Thermalright 12.8wm/k pads are on Amazon for like $11 for 85mmx45mm and if you wait a month for shipping, you can get 120mmx120mm on Aliexpress for about $8 USD, and Google a coupon, you can get $4 off on Aliexpress for a new customer or even if you just register with a new email.


ooooo nice thats something to consider!


----------



## asdf893

My 3-month old 3090 ftw3 ultra died, 1 month after having the optimus block on it. Temps in Evga PX1 were always excellent so I'm baffled. Not pointing fingers just trying to be diligent. The symptoms were no video output but still able to load the GPU with mining or folding. Here's the replacement 3090 FTW3 ultra from EVGA. I added some of the thinnest thermal pad to the components in the red boxes because I saw others do it and thought why not? Anyway what are those red components? Also I noticed that the thin pads in green looked barely compressed on the previous install; did they even make contact? Anyway instead of replacing them with thicker pads I kept as-is. I'm sure Optimus would inform all customers if they discovered a design flaw and would send replacement pads. Installing the block on a 2nd card was less hassle than I had imagined. I was dreading peeling off the bulging backplate thermal pad but it came off without too much tearing. To be clear the red squares are pads I added. I've included my PX1 temps also. I'm a bit suspicious of PWR4 being more than 20C above die. What are y'all getting on your temps when the card has been heatsoaked?

P.S. yes I know this photo doesn't have the VRAM pads or recessed VRM pads (alongside the green rectangles)


----------



## evilbob2200

asdf893 said:


> My 3-month old 3090 ftw3 ultra died, 1 month after having the optimus block on it. Temps in Evga PX1 were always excellent so I'm baffled. Not pointing fingers just trying to be diligent. The symptoms were no video output but still able to load the GPU with mining or folding. Here's the replacement 3090 FTW3 ultra from EVGA. I added some of the thinnest thermal pad to the components in the red boxes because I saw others do it and thought why not? Anyway what are those red components? Also I noticed that the thin pads in green looked barely compressed on the previous install; did they even make contact? Anyway instead of replacing them with thicker pads I kept as-is. I'm sure Optimus would inform all customers if they discovered a design flaw and would send replacement pads. Installing the block on a 2nd card was less hassle than I had imagined. I was dreading peeling off the bulging backplate thermal pad but it came off without too much tearing. To be clear the red squares are pads I added. I've included my PX1 temps also. I'm a bit suspicious of PWR4 being more than 20C above die. What are y'all getting on your temps when the card has been heatsoaked?
> 
> P.S. yes I know this photo doesn't have the VRAM pads or recessed VRM pads (alongside the green rectangles)
> 
> View attachment 2476860
> 
> 
> View attachment 2476862


are you sure its the gpu? have you tried a new cable? the input on the monitor?


----------



## Phroz3

asdf893 said:


> My 3-month old 3090 ftw3 ultra died, 1 month after having the optimus block on it. Temps in Evga PX1 were always excellent so I'm baffled. Not pointing fingers just trying to be diligent. The symptoms were no video output but still able to load the GPU with mining or folding. Here's the replacement 3090 FTW3 ultra from EVGA. I added some of the thinnest thermal pad to the components in the red boxes because I saw others do it and thought why not? Anyway what are those red components? Also I noticed that the thin pads in green looked barely compressed on the previous install; did they even make contact? Anyway instead of replacing them with thicker pads I kept as-is. I'm sure Optimus would inform all customers if they discovered a design flaw and would send replacement pads. Installing the block on a 2nd card was less hassle than I had imagined. I was dreading peeling off the bulging backplate thermal pad but it came off without too much tearing. To be clear the red squares are pads I added. I've included my PX1 temps also. I'm a bit suspicious of PWR4 being more than 20C above die. What are y'all getting on your temps when the card has been heatsoaked?
> 
> P.S. yes I know this photo doesn't have the VRAM pads or recessed VRM pads (alongside the green rectangles)
> 
> View attachment 2476860
> 
> 
> View attachment 2476862


These cards are dropping like flys! I sure hope I am lucky and never have to RMA. I did the 5 year extended at least.


----------



## asdf893

evilbob2200 said:


> are you sure its the gpu? have you tried a new cable? the input on the monitor?


tried everything. monitor, cable, gpu swap, PSu, psu cable, reinstall nvidia drivers, reinstall PX1.


----------



## asdf893

Phroz3 said:


> These cards are dropping like flys! I sure hope I am lucky and never have to RMA. I did the 5 year extended at least.


my first ftw3 that dropped like a fly was a legend among this home. It was outperforming 2 3090 KPE's _on air_. Once the waterblock was on the KPE's didn't have a chance.


----------



## Phroz3

asdf893 said:


> tried everything. monitor, cable, gpu swap, PSu, psu cable, reinstall nvidia drivers, reinstall PX1.


Red light by one of the power cables?


----------



## asdf893

Phroz3 said:


> Red light by one of the power cables?


no red light.


----------



## evilbob2200

and heres a pcb thing that might have teh info youre looking for EVGA GeForce RTX 3090 FTW3 Ultra Review - The Quietest RTX 3090


----------



## Phroz3

asdf893 said:


> no red light.


Well that is a good thing I suppose. Most of the deaths were accompanied by the red light on the evga forums.


----------



## Phroz3

asdf893 said:


> My 3-month old 3090 ftw3 ultra died, 1 month after having the optimus block on it. Temps in Evga PX1 were always excellent so I'm baffled. Not pointing fingers just trying to be diligent. The symptoms were no video output but still able to load the GPU with mining or folding. Here's the replacement 3090 FTW3 ultra from EVGA. I added some of the thinnest thermal pad to the components in the red boxes because I saw others do it and thought why not? Anyway what are those red components? Also I noticed that the thin pads in green looked barely compressed on the previous install; did they even make contact? Anyway instead of replacing them with thicker pads I kept as-is. I'm sure Optimus would inform all customers if they discovered a design flaw and would send replacement pads. Installing the block on a 2nd card was less hassle than I had imagined. I was dreading peeling off the bulging backplate thermal pad but it came off without too much tearing. To be clear the red squares are pads I added. I've included my PX1 temps also. I'm a bit suspicious of PWR4 being more than 20C above die. What are y'all getting on your temps when the card has been heatsoaked?
> 
> P.S. yes I know this photo doesn't have the VRAM pads or recessed VRM pads (alongside the green rectangles)
> 
> View attachment 2476860
> 
> 
> View attachment 2476862


Here is where EK sticks their thermal pads for our cards.


----------



## Phroz3

Does anyone have a PDF or something of the instructions for the Optimus FTW3 block?


----------



## asdf893

Phroz3 said:


> Here is where EK sticks their thermal pads for our cards.


Thanks. Why isn't Optimus doing the top-left, top-right, and bottom-left of the GPU?


----------



## KedarWolf

asdf893 said:


> My 3-month old 3090 ftw3 ultra died, 1 month after having the optimus block on it. Temps in Evga PX1 were always excellent so I'm baffled. Not pointing fingers just trying to be diligent. The symptoms were no video output but still able to load the GPU with mining or folding. Here's the replacement 3090 FTW3 ultra from EVGA. I added some of the thinnest thermal pad to the components in the red boxes because I saw others do it and thought why not? Anyway what are those red components? Also I noticed that the thin pads in green looked barely compressed on the previous install; did they even make contact? Anyway instead of replacing them with thicker pads I kept as-is. I'm sure Optimus would inform all customers if they discovered a design flaw and would send replacement pads. Installing the block on a 2nd card was less hassle than I had imagined. I was dreading peeling off the bulging backplate thermal pad but it came off without too much tearing. To be clear the red squares are pads I added. I've included my PX1 temps also. I'm a bit suspicious of PWR4 being more than 20C above die. What are y'all getting on your temps when the card has been heatsoaked?
> 
> P.S. yes I know this photo doesn't have the VRAM pads or recessed VRM pads (alongside the green rectangles)


I'm buying an RTX 3090 in March with my tax refund, and after reading forum threads and stuff, I think I'm going with a Strix and not an FTW3 Ultra. Higher TDP, MLCCs instead of POSCAPs on the EVGA which might be causing the failures.

Does Optimus even make a block for the Strix?

Edit: And I think they bin the Strix, which the don't do with the FTW3 Ultra.


----------



## evilbob2200

asdf893 said:


> Thanks. Why isn't Optimus doing the top-left, top-right, and bottom-left of the GPU?


evga doesnt either


----------



## asdf893

evilbob2200 said:


> evga doesnt either


thanks. Your previous screenshot, why didn't you post with the ICX temps showing? Would it effect HWInfo?


----------



## evilbob2200

asdf893 said:


> thanks. Your previous screenshot, why didn't you post with the ICX temps showing? Would it effect HWInfo?


no was just showing core temp didnt need icx open just wanted to show the temp delta between coolant and core underload after an hour of gaming. btw what thickness thermal pads are you using? are they fujipoly?


----------



## asdf893

evilbob2200 said:


> no was just showing core temp didnt need icx open just wanted to show the temp delta between coolant and core underload after an hour of gaming. btw what thickness thermal pads are you using? are they fujipoly?


I'm using the optimus supplied pads installed as they instructed.


----------



## KedarWolf

Spoiler: MLCC and POSCAP





__
https://www.reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/izmi1k




EVGA using POSCAP, ASUS using MLCC.

Apparently POSCAP can be the cause of card failures.


----------



## dwolvin

Could be interesting, where did you hear that KedarWolf?


----------



## evilbob2200

asdf893 said:


> I'm using the optimus supplied pads installed as they instructed.


ah so you were able to reuse them on the replaced card? i wanna get extras just in case i damage mine when i do maintenance


----------



## LiquidHaus

I have EK's block and backplate coming in on Thursday. Got tired of waiting. Gonna mount Bitspower's HDD block to the backplate for additional cooling to the backside. Also am next in the Kingpin queue, will probably purchase but am unsure if I will keep it or not. I'm definitely getting rid of one since I don't need both.

I'll be curious to test out my thermals and maybe some Port Royal scores against some of you guys who have your Optimus blocks already.


----------



## Phroz3

KedarWolf said:


> I'm buying an RTX 3090 in March with my tax refund, and after reading forum threads and stuff, I think I'm going with a Strix and not an FTW3 Ultra. Higher TDP, MLCCs instead of POSCAPs on the EVGA which might be causing the failures.
> 
> Does Optimus even make a block for the Strix?
> 
> Edit: And I think they bin the Strix, which the don't do with the FTW3 Ultra.


It's actually good to have a mix of poscap and mlcc.


----------



## dwolvin

Agreed- I was just coming back to post this write up link: R/Hardware


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> It's actually good to have a mix of poscap and mlcc.


Yep. They serve different purposes. One is not simply a better version of the other. The whole POSCAP thing got waaaay overblown, and fortunately has been thoroughly debunked as an actual issue.


----------



## whaleboy_4096

asdf893 said:


> Also I noticed that the thin pads in green looked barely compressed on the previous install; did they even make contact?


I don't think you are the first to notice this. Is it only those two strips that you saw this?


----------



## evilbob2200

whaleboy_4096 said:


> I don't think you are the first to notice this. Is it only those two strips that you saw this?


my vrm temps are better with the block so i think they are making contact


----------



## Shawnb99

KedarWolf said:


> Spoiler: MLCC and POSCAP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/izmi1k
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA using POSCAP, ASUS using MLCC.
> 
> Apparently POSCAP can be the cause of card failures.



So ONLY EVGA cards are failing? No others at all?


----------



## sultanofswing

Shawnb99 said:


> So ONLY EVGA cards are failing? No others at all?


I've heard of a few Strix Cards dying but those can be counted on 1 hand. On the EVGA Forum I see Atleast 1 to 2 posts a week about FTW3's Dying.


----------



## evilbob2200

sultanofswing said:


> I've heard of a few Strix Cards dying but those can be counted on 1 hand. On the EVGA Forum I see Atleast 1 to 2 posts a week about FTW3's Dying.


ive seen an even spread i dont think ones failing more often than the other.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

I had to send my ftw3 in for rma this week. Fan on the heatsink died and I'll want a functioning heatsink when it comes time to sell. Hoping they just fix the fan and send the same card back. My card wasn't a golden chip but it wasn't bad either, feel like any replacement will be a turd.


----------



## Section31

evilbob2200 said:


> ive seen an even spread i dont think ones failing more often than the other.


I think it’s because evga has produced more cards than asus has. Strix has been relatively difficult card to get ahold off


----------



## zGunBLADEz

man im still waiting for b&h order this is ridiculous i manage to get a ps5 to cure my itch....
i got the 5900x and the board but no gpu...and im not paying scalper/tariffs prices hell no...

@OptimusWC i need a intel 115x to am3/4 socket adapter.. der8uer made one and to be honest it dont look bad


----------



## Wihglah

So, what order No. are we up to on the FTW3 blocks?


----------



## Palito93

Wihglah said:


> So, what order No. are we up to on the FTW3 blocks?


The last i saw was around 2810s i believe

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## straha20

@Optimus WC So quick question on the Optimus Reservoirs. Are the measurements on the site from the bottom of the base to the top of the lid? For instance, the 8.5 inch one...is that the total height? I am strongly considering trying to adapt those to replace my Heatkiller reservoirs, but I need it to be pretty much 8.5 inches total height to fit.


----------



## Phroz3

evilbob2200 said:


> ive seen an even spread i dont think ones failing more often than the other.


I would hope to agree. I think us members of the EVGA forum are a large group and the forum layout lends itself well to us giving their opinion and reporting on issues freely. Just hope/wish that EVGA comes forward and lets us know the actually issue once they figure out what it is if they haven't already. Obviously these high end cards are pulling a ton of power. I have a suspicion that the huge power spikes might be popping a fuse or quite literally killing the GPU itself. In heavily ray traced games such as Minecraft RTX it would throw my 850 watt PSU into power protect within seconds of game play. The power delivery itself is quite overkill so I doubt that is failing.


zGunBLADEz said:


> man im still waiting for b&h order this is ridiculous i manage to get a ps5 to cure my itch....
> i got the 5900x and the board but no gpu...and im not paying scalper/tariffs prices hell no...
> 
> @OptimusWC i need a intel 115x to am3/4 socket adapter.. der8uer made one and to be honest it dont look bad
> View attachment 2476946
> View attachment 2476945


If it's a 3090 you are after I can tell you where you can probably have one within a week or so. 3080, not so much.


----------



## straha20

straha20 said:


> @Optimus WC So quick question on the Optimus Reservoirs. Are the measurements on the site from the bottom of the base to the top of the lid? For instance, the 8.5 inch one...is that the total height? I am strongly considering trying to adapt those to replace my Heatkiller reservoirs, but I need it to be pretty much 8.5 inches total height to fit.


And also, which d5 pump out there would fit this reservoir since Optimus doesn't have any sold separately. For instance, would this EK one fit?



https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/pumps/ek-d5-pwm-g2-motor-12v-dc-pump-motor-sleeved-ek-d5-pwm-g2-s.html



One more question...if I went with the non-blemish full reservoir system, could I get them in the black acetal base and lid? The site does not give that option.
And one more  ... Does the lid fit completely air and water tight under pressure? I ask this because my Heatkiller reservoirs tops would fit snuggly, but since I am using them in series, they actually leak out the top since they do not actually fully water and air tight seal.


----------



## Phroz3

Palito93 said:


> The last i saw was around 2810s i believe
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Is that about the tail end of the 2nd batch afayk?


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> And also, which d5 pump out there would fit this reservoir since Optimus doesn't have any sold separately. For instance, would this EK one fit?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/pumps/ek-d5-pwm-g2-motor-12v-dc-pump-motor-sleeved-ek-d5-pwm-g2-s.html
> 
> 
> 
> One more question...if I went with the non-blemish full reservoir system, could I get them in the black acetal base and lid? The site does not give that option.
> And one more  ... Does the lid fit completely air and water tight under pressure? I ask this because my Heatkiller reservoirs tops would fit snuggly, but since I am using them in series, they actually leak out the top since they do not actually fully water and air tight seal.


As for the D5, they are all the same as far as I know. They are all from the same company with different stickers and plugs attached.


----------



## Shawnb99

Only D5 that shouldn’t fit is the Next


----------



## Phroz3

Shawnb99 said:


> Only D5 that shouldn’t fit is the Next


That's that weird RGB version?


----------



## Palito93

Phroz3 said:


> Is that about the tail end of the 2nd batch afayk?


I saw people in the low 3000 in batch 2 lol. 
According to their tweet, a lot of blocks will be shipped this week. So let's wait and see

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Phroz3

Palito93 said:


> I saw people in the low 3000 in batch 2 lol.
> According to their tweet, a lot of blocks will be shipped this week. So let's wait and see
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


I just got in on the small batch on Friday 1/29. Order is in the 34xx range. Just wondering how many batch 2 are left before they start on ours. I know I have at least 3 weeks to wait possibly more.


----------



## evilbob2200

Palito93 said:


> The last i saw was around 2810s i believe
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


i was 2814 and got my block


----------



## evilbob2200

Phroz3 said:


> Is that about the tail end of the 2nd batch afayk?


no thats like mid early batch 2

also I havent had an issue with my psu and my 3080 i have a seasonic focus px 850


----------



## Phroz3

evilbob2200 said:


> no thats like mid early batch 2
> 
> also I havent had an issue with my psu and my 3080 i have a seasonic focus px 850


I am running the 3090. Probably enough to put it over the edge.


----------



## Keith Myers

straha20 said:


> @Optimus WC So quick question on the Optimus Reservoirs. Are the measurements on the site from the bottom of the base to the top of the lid? For instance, the 8.5 inch one...is that the total height? I am strongly considering trying to adapt those to replace my Heatkiller reservoirs, but I need it to be pretty much 8.5 inches total height to fit.


Yes, that is the total height. From the base of the pump housing to the top of the threaded fill cap. Just put mine in yesterday.


----------



## Keith Myers

straha20 said:


> And also, which d5 pump out there would fit this reservoir since Optimus doesn't have any sold separately. For instance, would this EK one fit?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/pumps/ek-d5-pwm-g2-motor-12v-dc-pump-motor-sleeved-ek-d5-pwm-g2-s.html
> 
> 
> 
> One more question...if I went with the non-blemish full reservoir system, could I get them in the black acetal base and lid? The site does not give that option.
> And one more  ... Does the lid fit completely air and water tight under pressure? I ask this because my Heatkiller reservoirs tops would fit snuggly, but since I am using them in series, they actually leak out the top since they do not actually fully water and air tight seal.


Yes, the top cap is watertight and pressure tight. Also I had a acetal top cap included with my order, lots of extra parts added in fact for compensation for the long delayed delivery of a "Ready to Ship" part. So I assume they could do an acetal base also.


----------



## evilbob2200

Phroz3 said:


> I am running the 3090. Probably enough to put it over the edge.


especially if youre overclocking cpu and the 3090. I havent started to do any ocing yet. I just dont think i have the juice for it between my 5900x and 3080 so im keeping an eye out for a 1000-1200 seasonic so I can keep my custom cables lol


----------



## straha20

Keith Myers said:


> Yes, the top cap is watertight and pressure tight. Also I had a acetal top cap included with my order, lots of extra parts added in fact for compensation for the long delayed delivery of a "Ready to Ship" part. So I assume they could do an acetal base also.


I won't be changing things out until my normal loop maintenance, so I have a few months  I went ahead and ordered the black blemish parts, and am going to try and figure out a way to seal off the reservoir tube on one of them to use it as a pass through reservoir without a pump. Aesthetic reasons there.


----------



## LiquidHaus

V2 block with my RGB shroud up close and personal on ASRock's social media!


----------



## Phroz3

evilbob2200 said:


> especially if youre overclocking cpu and the 3090. I havent started to do any ocing yet. I just dont think i have the juice for it between my 5900x and 3080 so im keeping an eye out for a 1000-1200 seasonic so I can keep my custom cables lol


I definitely have both overclocked. I am going to jump on the next 5900x I see. I have the 2700x right now which is more power hungry than the 5900x I believe lol. There is a 1300w version of the seasonic prime as well. I went with the evga G2 1600w because it was available. Overkill is better than underkill lol.


----------



## evilbob2200

Phroz3 said:


> I definitely have both overclocked. I am going to jump on the next 5900x I see. I have the 2700x right now which is more power hungry than the 5900x I believe lol. There is a 1300w version of the seasonic prime as well. I went with the evga G2 1600w because it was available. Overkill is better than underkill lol.


one of my friends picked it up for me at microcenter in chicago mid December. Im immuno compromised so he was a badass and went in and bought if for me and i gave him tip of 150 bucks to show my love/appreciation haha. I had to force him to take the extra money lol


----------



## Phroz3

evilbob2200 said:


> one of my friends picked it up for me at microcenter in chicago mid December. Im immuno compromised so he was a badass and went in and bought if for me and i gave him tip of 150 bucks to show my love/appreciation haha. I had to force him to take the extra money lol


That is badass that your buddy did that for you. True friend for sure. I wish we had a microcenter near me. I am in Wa State and I believe the closest one is in CA. 16 hour drive or so lol.


----------



## evilbob2200

Phroz3 said:


> That is badass that your buddy did that for you. True friend for sure. I wish we had a microcenter near me. I am in Wa State and I believe the closest one is in CA. 16 hour drive or so lol.


yeah hes a great guy! oof that suckkks theyre great stores its like toys r us but for computer nerds lol


----------



## Phroz3

evilbob2200 said:


> yeah hes a great guy! oof that suckkks theyre great stores its like toys r us but for computer nerds lol


We have a frys within driving distance that was once a cool place to go much like microcenter. They are on the brink of bankruptcy it seems. Empty shelves.


----------



## RichKnecht

I live 10 minutes from a Microcenter and Home Depot. Those stores are my kryptonite.


----------



## asdf893

LiquidHaus said:


> V2 block with my RGB shroud up close and personal on ASRock's social media!
> 
> View attachment 2476976


Wait what. Optimus has a V2 AM4 block and with RGB? I see they've acted on the positive feedback from the RGB prototype I showcased here


----------



## LiquidHaus

asdf893 said:


> Wait what. Optimus has a V2 AM4 block and with RGB? I see they've acted on the positive feedback from the RGB prototype I showcased here


Nah, it's just the prototype I'm testing out. I'm in the process of making RGB shrouds for a few different blocks I'm working on to sell.


----------



## rayuma

Anyone know of a 120mm bracket that can be used with the Optimus D5 reservoir? I tried using the brackets provided with the O11 mini but it's not compatible with the Optimus res. Just trying to mount the reservoir on top of the bottom 120mm fan.


----------



## Keith Myers

I just used this simple bracket yesterday. The central slot was perfect for mounting the pump vertically on my front case fan.
Maxmoral 12cm Water Cooling Pump Radiator Support Holder Water Drainage Tank Reservoir Bracket Fan Holder Mount Stand


----------



## Palito93

@Optimus WC Any updates on the blocks? 


Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Phroz3

Does the Optimus GPU block come with torque specs in the instructions or has anyone reached out to them to get that info? @Optimus WC


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC is doing their usual of hiding and ignoring all communication. Starting to piss me off, can’t even get a ****ing reply. 
They really need to work on that or no matter how good their **** is we’ll stop buying it if this keeps up.


----------



## chuuurles

super frustrating, I have been trying to place an order for 3 days and no response from company. I run a company, we are also very very busy right now. We write back to our customers.


----------



## Palito93

Phroz3 said:


> Does the Optimus GPU block come with torque specs in the instructions or has anyone reached out to them to get that info? @Optimus WC


I asked them if they could make the directions available to us before the first batch started shipping on twitter a while ago.
They told me that would be no issue. To this date, i haven't received anything lol.


Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC is doing their usual of hiding and ignoring all communication. Starting to piss me off, can’t even get a ****ing reply.
> They really need to work on that or no matter how good their **** is we’ll stop buying it if this keeps up.


Its time to personally zoom/call them lol. I usually don’t like using my whatsapp for talking with businesses but I really had no choice but to for my custom cables.


----------



## acoustic

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC is doing their usual of hiding and ignoring all communication. Starting to piss me off, can’t even get a ****ing reply.
> They really need to work on that or no matter how good their **** is we’ll stop buying it if this keeps up.


You know it's bad when Shawn is starting to get on them about **** lol


----------



## Shawnb99

chuuurles said:


> super frustrating, I have been trying to place an order for 3 days and no response from company. I run a company, we are also very very busy right now. We write back to our customers.


Yeah I know. I’m not asking for a detailed reply. Just a simple response but you can’t even get that just absolute silence.



Section31 said:


> Its time to personally zoom/call them lol


No it’s time to find another company to support. If they can’t even give us the decency of a response then they don’t deserve my money.




acoustic said:


> You know it's bad when Shawn is starting to get on them about **** lol


lol I know right. Though losing money on GME might of soured my mood.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah I know. I’m not asking for a detailed reply. Just a simple response but you can’t even get that just absolute silence.
> 
> 
> 
> No it’s time to find another company to support. If they can’t even give us the decency of a response then they don’t deserve my money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol I know right. Though losing money on GME might of soured my mood.


You know what you are getting into. You more or less are holding it long term at this point.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC is doing their usual of hiding and ignoring all communication. Starting to piss me off, can’t even get a ****ing reply.
> They really need to work on that or no matter how good their **** is we’ll stop buying it if this keeps up.


Now you know why we've all been complaining over the past few months. You kept apologizing on their behalf, and now you're experiencing the same thing.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> You know what you are getting into. You more or less are holding it long term at this point.


Oh I know. I just liked seeing all green. How quickly it can turn.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> Oh I know. I just liked seeing all green. How quickly it can turn.


This whole GME business, you'll need to exit at some point or you'll be left holding the bag. Those who sell first stand to gain the most, those who sell last will lose the most. And obviously the people that got in first, last year, like u/Deep****ingValue already made tons of money (he already liquidated $13M), and I'm sure he will sell too at some point. I bet once he posts at the end of some day on reddit that he liquidated all his positions you'll get a long squeeze the next day, the opposite of a short squeeze.


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> This whole GME business, you'll need to exit at some point or you'll be left holding the bag. Those who sell first stand to gain the most, those who sell last will lose the most. And obviously the people that got in first, last year, like u/Deep****ingValue already made tons of money (he already liquidated $13M), and I'm sure he will sell too at some point. I bet once he posts at the end of some day on reddit that he liquidated all his positions you'll get a long squeeze the next day, the opposite of a short squeeze.


I will, was never expecting to keep them for long. Only put a few grand in anyways so was more just a hope for a big payday, likely missed it but that’s the way it is. Got in at $120 so should still be able to sell in the green


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Now you know why we've all been complaining over the past few months. You kept apologizing on their behalf, and now you're experiencing the same thing.


I have side bets in my case. I am considering buying an heatkiller ftw3 block also myself.


----------



## straha20

Shawnb99 said:


> Oh I know. I just liked seeing all green. How quickly it can turn.


Ahhh...quich' er whinin' Covid, and stuff...


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> Ahhh...quich' er whinin' Covid, and stuff...


Better question is where that 10% coupon they were going to give us lol. I almost forgot about till this topic came back up.


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> Now you know why we've all been complaining over the past few months. You kept apologizing on their behalf, and now you're experiencing the same thing.


I always understood why you were complaining. It was calling them liars and scammers is what I objected to. At no point was anyone lied to. I’m upset as well, I’m not throwing a tantrum, calling them names. I never apologized for the bad communication so maybe you want check what I said again.


----------



## straha20

Section31 said:


> Better question is where that 10% coupon they were going to give us lol. I almost forgot about till this topic came back up.


Oh yeah! Forgot about that. I just placed an order with them yesterday for a couple of blemish reservoirs.


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> Oh yeah! Forgot about that. I just placed an order with them yesterday for a couple of blemish reservoirs.


It was this post Optimus Waterblock
So 15% off.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> It was this post Optimus Waterblock
> So 15% off.


I read that as 15% off next GPU block order, not a coupon for everyone


----------



## straha20

Keith Myers said:


> Yes, that is the total height. From the base of the pump housing to the top of the threaded fill cap. Just put mine in yesterday.


@Keith Myers Got another question for you about the reservoir...

How long are the screws that hold the acrylic pump top to the metal base? Is there much extra length that goes into the base so that I could fit a 3mm piece of acrylic between the top and base?


----------



## straha20

Shawnb99 said:


> I read that as 15% off next GPU block order, not a coupon for everyone


At this point, 15% off isn't enough to go through the hassle of emailing and trying to get a response.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I read that as 15% off next GPU block order, not a coupon for everyone


The wording wasn't 100% clear, lets see what they say


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> At this point, 15% off isn't enough to go through the hassle of emailing and trying to get a response.


It's just 5min e-mail, if nothing happens, that's it. If so thats 15% off lol


----------



## Keith Myers

straha20 said:


> @Keith Myers Got another question for you about the reservoir...
> 
> How long are the screws that hold the acrylic pump top to the metal base? Is there much extra length that goes into the base so that I could fit a 3mm piece of acrylic between the top and base?


I think they were about 35mm long. I didn't measure or anything but I had them out when I switched the port orientation relative to the housing mounting holes. Not sure there is 3mm worth of extra length there. But I also did not investigate how deep the threaded portion of the pump housing was or whether you could just substitute longer screws to accommodate your extra acrylic spacer. You probably could just buy longer screws. I think they use standard hardware in all locations.


----------



## Eulerian

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1355200645658247171
Is there a reason why new orders are being accepted with a promise of 2-3 weeks total purchase-to-completion turnaround time when there are still (ostensibly) a few hundred Batch 2 orders from November that have yet to be fulfilled?


----------



## Section31

Eulerian said:


> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1355200645658247171
> Is there a reason why new orders are being accepted with a promise of 2-3 weeks total purchase-to-completion turnaround time when there are still (ostensibly) a few hundred Batch 2 orders from November that have yet to be fulfilled?


I have an order no 3383 - that was for there blemish stuff and order 3505 - GPU blocks. Can't assume every order was for GPU blocks. My case is different from bulk of you guys though. I technically am in rush to do the build. I'm still being held up by heatkiller and for them to release/announce there new internal radiators and b&h 5950x (that's getting worse delay oh well an only sticking around because if i want one from retail here its going to cost me 1300cad vs 1191cad). Taking an hit on potential recovery on my 5800x but as long as i can resell it for costs of my waterblock don't really care. My planned build is expected to be completed sometime in summer. My PC isn't used for much and only turned on for couple hours an week - mainly for watching streaming stuff (asian media), youtube and web surfing. Gets boring fast lol.


----------



## sakete

Eulerian said:


> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1355200645658247171
> Is there a reason why new orders are being accepted with a promise of 2-3 weeks total purchase-to-completion turnaround time when there are still (ostensibly) a few hundred Batch 2 orders from November that have yet to be fulfilled?


Unless proven otherwise, at this point you should live under the assumption that initial timeline estimates are very unreliable. Add on another month at least.


----------



## _cycl0ne

sakete said:


> Unless proven otherwise, at this point you should live under the assumption that initial timeline estimates are very unreliable. Add on another month at least.


Very true. Also has the added "benefit" of irking existing customers who haven't received their products yet... Obviously, it's not a scam as people have received their products, but at this point, I can't help but ask myself if there's an underlying liquidity issue that necessitates them opening up these pre-sales that they know they won't be able to fulfill in the stated timeline.


----------



## Phroz3

_cycl0ne said:


> Very true. Also has the added "benefit" of irking existing customers who haven't received their products yet... Obviously, it's not a scam as people have received their products, but at this point, I can't help but ask myself if there's an underlying liquidity issue that necessitates them opening up these pre-sales that they know they won't be able to fulfill in the stated timeline.


I think it will get a bit better once they catch up on batch 2. The weekly small batches should allow them to keep up with demand better.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> I think it will get a bit better once they catch up on batch 2. The weekly small batches should allow them to keep up with demand better.


it's just an absolute worst time to buy anything. Hopefully things get better but I really don't know. How much does the world ultimately change the longer this goes on. That and everyone mentally has been effected and it shows up time to time. It's something that i notice around my friends and close family, myself, I just try to be patient and importantly stay safe. Tune out any unnecessary noise that going on in the world that doesn't concern me.


----------



## Eulerian

sakete said:


> Unless proven otherwise, at this point you should live under the assumption that initial timeline estimates are very unreliable. Add on another month at least.


That isn't even the part that gives me pause - it's more the nature of the communication itself. Like surely they'd realize how frustrating that would be for the batch 2 guys to see, and especially with no further elaboration or reassurances. Because otherwise it sounds like people who've had their money held since November are just getting lumped in with new orders/new money.


----------



## sakete

Eulerian said:


> That isn't even the part that gives me pause - it's more the nature of the communication itself. Like surely they'd realize how frustrating that would be for the batch 2 guys to see, and especially with no further elaboration or reassurances. Because otherwise it sounds like people who've had their money held since November are just getting lumped in with new orders/new money.


Well, it's an understatement, but communication isn't their strength. They make great products, arguably some of the best watercooling parts. But their communication has been really bad for several months now. I've been going back and forth with them since late September now, and most of my emails just go to a blackhole it seems. And based on their initial promise I would've had a GPU block back in October.

Anyway, for me it has never been about needing to wait. For me it has been all the empty promises and non-existent communication. If they would've told me back on October like, hey, this might take a while, let's go with a rough estimate of 3 months or so. If we can get it out sooner we'll let you know, once we hit a snag, we'll let you know as well. I would've been totally fine with that and I would've shut up for the next 3 months.


----------



## Section31

Eulerian said:


> That isn't even the part that gives me pause - it's more the nature of the communication itself. Like surely they'd realize how frustrating that would be for the batch 2 guys to see, and especially with no further elaboration or reassurances. Because otherwise it sounds like people who've had their money held since November are just getting lumped in with new orders/new money.


This year has been pretty bad for me too lol. Eventhough i have an temporary rig up, its going to be one year till the final rig is up. Curious how would you take waiting 7months (down deposit) for an Yamaha Piano and Beyond Customs still haven't finished my custom cables.

I would say B&H has been notoriously worse than Optimus. The number of people on that 5900x/5950x backorder list are pissed is pretty high. They really provided an too optimistic outlook.

Custom cable order was made all the way back in December 2019 and couldn't ship for long time because of shipping restrictions and that i paid local national carrier and according to him, the South Africa post office was full of people applying for government benefits. Then like 6-8months have passed and since i was changing cases (i needed to trim my cables length) the cheapest route was to get him trim them down and I also ordered couple more cables. Also paid for courier shipping at this point. Almost as difficult to get ahold of him as Optimus lol. I got to be patient and if by time he can't deliver by time i do my build, I will just have to place an order with Titan Rigs for custom sleeved cabling or order materials from MDPC-X and get local person to do my sleeving.

Hopefully this year gets better and Optimus improves on its customer service response side.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Well, it's an understatement, but communication isn't their strength. They make great products, arguably some of the best watercooling parts. But their communication has been really bad for several months now. I've been going back and forth with them since late September now, and most of my emails just go to a blackhole it seems. And based on their initial promise I would've had a GPU block back in October.
> 
> Anyway, for me it has never been about needing to wait. For me it has been all the empty promises and non-existent communication. If they would've told me back on October like, hey, this might take a while, let's go with a rough estimate of 3 months or so. If we can get it out sooner we'll let you know, once we hit a snag, we'll let you know as well. I would've been totally fine with that and I would've shut up for the next 3 months.


Me and Shawnb99 probably have it worse than many of you (outside of the group looking for GPU's). Consider all the people waiting for there cars because TSMC can't produce enough chips just for the automotive industry.

Funny story but I am getting an home automation upgrade done at my place. Guess what the installer originally said it would be take one month so December 2020. Guess what, it continues to be delayed because of

1. intercom (common issue with home automation as there isn't an great solution that doesn't come with it own issues). Looked at holovision (works but is expensive with expensive per phone license if you want app based usage outside the home and requires drilling cement or making an external box to get it to fit inside the front post). Installer now looking at other options to resolve this issue.

2.The installer underestimated the work needed to get Crestron new solution for Lutron to talk with it. 15years later and Crestron still can't program any better. Yet they market it as easy as hell. Fortunate its fixed costs, so any extra hours we don't have to pay for.


----------



## m4fox90

Just put in an order for the 8.5in pump+res. Saw they were in stock and decided I couldn't wait. I really hope it's worth it, $309 is very spicy in that product class.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> Me and Shawnb99 probably have it worse than many of you (outside of the group looking for GPU's). Consider all the people waiting for there cars because TSMC can't produce enough chips just for the automotive industry.
> 
> Funny story but I am getting an home automation upgrade done at my place. Guess what the installer originally said it would be take one month so December 2020. Guess what, it continues to be delayed because of
> 
> 1. intercom (common issue with home automation as there isn't an great solution that doesn't come with it own issues). Looked at holovision (works but is expensive with expensive per phone license if you want app based usage outside the home and requires drilling cement or making an external box to get it to fit inside the front post). Installer now looking at other options to resolve this issue.
> 
> 2.The installer underestimated the work needed to get Crestron new solution for Lutron to talk with it. 15years later and Crestron still can't program any better. Yet they market it as easy as hell. Fortunate its fixed costs, so any extra hours we don't have to pay for.


Yeah, it's a mess for sure with all kinds of things. I managed to snag a Canon EOS R5 last year after waiting about 3 months for any availability. And then lenses are hard to come by, EF-RF adapter is nowhere to be found. I'm still debating buying a 5950X as well, but yeah supply is non-existent for that, and now I'm thinking I might just stick with my 3900X and perhaps just upgrade when it's AM5 (or if Intel finally wakes up and brings out something that's better). Though the 5950X at the same time remains tempting, as I can just plop it in my current system without changing anything and would give a couple years longer life than my 3900X.

So yeah, I understand delays. I just don't understand when there's no communication  My most recent exchange with Optimus, after weeks of silence, was this Monday, saying they'd get back to me by end of day on Monday. Well, guess what happened...


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Yeah, it's a mess for sure with all kinds of things. I managed to snag a Canon EOS R5 last year after waiting about 3 months for any availability. And then lenses are hard to come by, EF-RF adapter is nowhere to be found. I'm still debating buying a 5950X as well, but yeah supply is non-existent for that, and now I'm thinking I might just stick with my 3900X and perhaps just upgrade when it's AM5 (or if Intel finally wakes up and brings out something that's better). Though the 5950X at the same time remains tempting, as I can just plop it in my current system without changing anything and would give a couple years longer life than my 3900X.
> 
> So yeah, I understand delays. I just don't understand when there's no communication  My most recent exchange with Optimus, after weeks of silence, was this Monday, saying they'd get back to me by end of day on Monday. Well, guess what happened...


Intel I have hope, Maybe Redcove and after could be good. New CEO is there (or should be ceo they should have had) and they got back new leadership in.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Yeah, it's a mess for sure with all kinds of things. I managed to snag a Canon EOS R5 last year after waiting about 3 months for any availability. And then lenses are hard to come by, EF-RF adapter is nowhere to be found. I'm still debating buying a 5950X as well, but yeah supply is non-existent for that, and now I'm thinking I might just stick with my 3900X and perhaps just upgrade when it's AM5 (or if Intel finally wakes up and brings out something that's better). Though the 5950X at the same time remains tempting, as I can just plop it in my current system without changing anything and would give a couple years longer life than my 3900X.
> 
> So yeah, I understand delays. I just don't understand when there's no communication  My most recent exchange with Optimus, after weeks of silence, was this Monday, saying they'd get back to me by end of day on Monday. Well, guess what happened...


Typical Optimus there.


----------



## JustinThyme

When it comes to GPU blocks, generally speaking, less than 15 is decent, 10 or less is very good. I added a software sensor to measure the Delta running Heaven ultra everything, highest settings. After an hour I pegged out on a Delta of 8C on two 2080Tis Strix O11G OC cards at 2160 and Vram at +900. Not apples for apples, just a comparison. CPU is another story....18 cores tend to heat up a bit but during heaven that delta was 38C.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> When it comes to GPU blocks, generally speaking, less than 15 is decent, 10 or less is very good. I added a software sensor to measure the Delta running Heaven ultra everything, highest settings. After an hour I pegged out on a Delta of 8C on two 2080Tis Strix O11G OC cards at 2160 and Vram at +900. Not apples for apples, just a comparison. CPU is another story....18 cores tend to heat up a bit but during heaven that delta was 38C.


You always provide us with useful data. Wish companies would send products to you to test over some of the reviewers /youtube guys


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> You always provide us with useful data. Wish companies would send products to you to test over some of the reviewers /youtube guys


Thank you for the compliment. Im by no means any authority, just another old fart that has been around the block so many times I'm done running! LOL
I get samples here and there but I'm not a funded reviewer like that goof ball Linus, GamersNexus or Jay no sense who all have sponsors. I provide the manufacturer feedback on products they send and post it up to share on forums, mostly here anymore. Ive grown tired of most of the Reddit and FB groups and most other forums with hecklers. I just give my results and not one to declare one winner over the other, just the data I collect with the product I'm sent as it comes out of the box with no modifications (Not that I may or may not go to modding mounts or lapping after LOL). Unlike Techpowerup that named EKWB magnitude the winner over Optimus by 0.10C in 3 runs using averages. I received samples of both and asked to have random production models pulled from the shelf instead of one thats been passed around and possibly modified or one that's an engineering sample that's been optimized. My call is they are both competitive. Thing is every chip is different whether it be CPU or GPU. TIM used and mounting techniques can make or break the performance of any solution. I forgot to mention the blocks on my 2080Tis are Watercool Heatkiller IV that took forever to get as both EK and HK were slow to get the Strix blocks to market. I ordered a pair of Barrows that went back faster than they got here, Utter junk and I dont say that very often. I ran a pair of Phanteks blocks for a few months that are actually aesthetically pleasing, well made and decent performance. What they lacked was a backplate, had to use the original that IMO causes more harm than good. Zero contact like it was distancing for COVID or something. I believe that actually held heat in as I dropped 2C from the memory and VRMS just from pulling the backplate. I can see EK and HKs point though because the layout on the PCB of the Strix card is a bit funky with one of the secondary VRM chokes being mounted 90 degrees out from the rest. Took a long time to get a straight answer of why from ASUS reps. Turns out the same PCB is used for the Matrix and they had to turn the choke to allow mounting clearance of their self contain AIO block (They didnt let me in on that info until after the Matrix was released). Other than the AIO and their claim that they used binned components on the Matrix they are Identical in every respect. I even flashed the Matrix BIOS onto my cards for giggles as well as the XOC BIOS with no power limits. Only thing it got me was a hotter chip. I get the same clocks with no added juice to the GPU and power limit set to 125%. So I flashed it back to stock which makes it run when at lower clocks. Just not doing much of anything like right now my GPU Delta is 1.2C. 22C ambient and liquid temp of 28C with fans pretty much silent at around 700 rpms.

If you look way back in this thread you can see my test runs of the Optimus Sig V2 on a 9940X at 4.8 GHz. Thrash was doing the same on a foundation, I just wish he held out a bit before commencing to modify the block. That throws testing out the window as most users wont got to lapping, grinding or anything else. They just take it out of the box and mount it. One thing I did note on both blocks it they are very particular on the mount and TIM application. With both blocks, less TIM is better and it was confirmed with the manufacturers that the intention is to have just enough TIM so it squishes out to cover the die area. So on these blocks the pea blob in the middle, push in with a little pressure, wiggle them around within the limitation of the mount then start two screws diagonally while maintaining the pressure by hand to where they just make contact then start the other two and work it down like a car tire like 1/4 turn at a time.


----------



## JustinThyme

sakete said:


> Yeah, it's a mess for sure with all kinds of things. I managed to snag a Canon EOS R5 last year after waiting about 3 months for any availability. And then lenses are hard to come by, EF-RF adapter is nowhere to be found. I'm still debating buying a 5950X as well, but yeah supply is non-existent for that, and now I'm thinking I might just stick with my 3900X and perhaps just upgrade when it's AM5 (or if Intel finally wakes up and brings out something that's better). Though the 5950X at the same time remains tempting, as I can just plop it in my current system without changing anything and would give a couple years longer life than my 3900X.
> 
> So yeah, I understand delays. I just don't understand when there's no communication  My most recent exchange with Optimus, after weeks of silence, was this Monday, saying they'd get back to me by end of day on Monday. Well, guess what happened...


Im still in the stone age with a 1DXMKII, love my L glass and the photos are phenominal. Hell I still have a 1D MKIII and a 1D MKIIN that take very good photos. The glass though makes a huge difference. I have a very large collection of L glass from 14mm to the beast 400 F2.8. Probably my favorite is a very old unicorn 200mm F1.8L that cranks out the best portrait images one can ask for with buttery smooth bokeh. 

Random shot from my rose garden early morning.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Intel I have hope, Maybe Redcove and after could be good. New CEO is there (or should be ceo they should have had) and they got back new leadership in.


Yeah Im expecting some big changes from both within a year. Intel is in talks to have their chips outsourced to TSMC and/or Samsung foundries.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah Im expecting some big changes from both within a year. Intel is in talks to have their chips outsourced to TSMC and/or Samsung foundries.


Most important is they fix there fabs. TSMC is too overloaded. Looking forward to intel comeback


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Thank you for the compliment. Im by no means any authority, just another old fart that has been around the block so many times I'm done running! LOL
> I get samples here and there but I'm not a funded reviewer like that goof ball Linus, GamersNexus or Jay no sense who all have sponsors. I provide the manufacturer feedback on products they send and post it up to share on forums, mostly here anymore. Ive grown tired of most of the Reddit and FB groups and most other forums with hecklers. I just give my results and not one to declare one winner over the other, just the data I collect with the product I'm sent as it comes out of the box with no modifications (Not that I may or may not go to modding mounts or lapping after LOL). Unlike Techpowerup that named EKWB magnitude the winner over Optimus by 0.10C in 3 runs using averages. I received samples of both and asked to have random production models pulled from the shelf instead of one thats been passed around and possibly modified or one that's an engineering sample that's been optimized. My call is they are both competitive. Thing is every chip is different whether it be CPU or GPU. TIM used and mounting techniques can make or break the performance of any solution. I forgot to mention the blocks on my 2080Tis are Watercool Heatkiller IV that took forever to get as both EK and HK were slow to get the Strix blocks to market. I ordered a pair of Barrows that went back faster than they got here, Utter junk and I dont say that very often. I ran a pair of Phanteks blocks for a few months that are actually aesthetically pleasing, well made and decent performance. What they lacked was a backplate, had to use the original that IMO causes more harm than good. Zero contact like it was distancing for COVID or something. I believe that actually held heat in as I dropped 2C from the memory and VRMS just from pulling the backplate. I can see EK and HKs point though because the layout on the PCB of the Strix card is a bit funky with one of the secondary VRM chokes being mounted 90 degrees out from the rest. Took a long time to get a straight answer of why from ASUS reps. Turns out the same PCB is used for the Matrix and they had to turn the choke to allow mounting clearance of their self contain AIO block (They didnt let me in on that info until after the Matrix was released). Other than the AIO and their claim that they used binned components on the Matrix they are Identical in every respect. I even flashed the Matrix BIOS onto my cards for giggles as well as the XOC BIOS with no power limits. Only thing it got me was a hotter chip. I get the same clocks with no added juice to the GPU and power limit set to 125%. So I flashed it back to stock which makes it run when at lower clocks. Just not doing much of anything like right now my GPU Delta is 1.2C. 22C ambient and liquid temp of 28C with fans pretty much silent at around 700 rpms.
> 
> If you look way back in this thread you can see my test runs of the Optimus Sig V2 on a 9940X at 4.8 GHz. Thrash was doing the same on a foundation, I just wish he held out a bit before commencing to modify the block. That throws testing out the window as most users wont got to lapping, grinding or anything else. They just take it out of the box and mount it. One thing I did note on both blocks it they are very particular on the mount and TIM application. With both blocks, less TIM is better and it was confirmed with the manufacturers that the intention is to have just enough TIM so it squishes out to cover the die area. So on these blocks the pea blob in the middle, push in with a little pressure, wiggle them around within the limitation of the mount then start two screws diagonally while maintaining the pressure by hand to where they just make contact then start the other two and work it down like a car tire like 1/4 turn at a time.


Please keep providing your data here, we value it a lot


----------



## sakete

JustinThyme said:


> Im still in the stone age with a 1DXMKII, love my L glass and the photos are phenominal. Hell I still have a 1D MKIII and a 1D MKIIN that take very good photos. The glass though makes a huge difference. I have a very large collection of L glass from 14mm to the beast 400 F2.8. Probably my favorite is a very old unicorn 200mm F1.8L that cranks out the best portrait images one can ask for with buttery smooth bokeh.
> 
> Random shot from my rose garden early morning.
> 
> View attachment 2477167


I went from originally Canon, to Olympus, to Nikon, and now back to Canon where I'll stay. Not switching systems ever again.

I had some nice EF glass, some if it L, that I got rid of when I switched to Olympus. Still regret that.

Now I'm going to slowly build up a nice RF glass collection. Still hoping Sigma will make Art lenses for the RF mount, would love to get a 50 and 85 f/1.4. I really don't need f/1.2 and that Canon L f/1.2 glass is ridiculously expensive.

Otherwise I will get some used EF L glass, especially for tele focal lengths, but I need the EF-RF adapter for that.

Seriously though, the AF on that R5 is like magic. And I love having those Canon colors again.


----------



## Palito93

@Optimus WC Guys we need an update. This Radio silence is unacceptable

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Biggu

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC is doing their usual of hiding and ignoring all communication. Starting to piss me off, can’t even get a ****ing reply.
> They really need to work on that or no matter how good their **** is we’ll stop buying it if this keeps up.


Yikes, I was going to offer them my 3090 strix for waterblock but seeing that Shawnb99 is upset makes me reconsider.


----------



## Shawnb99

Biggu said:


> Yikes, I was going to offer them my 3090 strix for waterblock but seeing that Shawnb99 is upset makes me reconsider.


I’m just salty atm. Block for my KPE is the only thing standing between me and completion. Plus I have residue anger from my distro plate debacle so don’t let my anger make you reconsider. I’ll be sending my card in as well... if I can ever get a reply that is.


----------



## sakete

Biggu said:


> Yikes, I was going to offer them my 3090 strix for waterblock but seeing that Shawnb99 is upset makes me reconsider.


When you do that, make sure you ask them to send back your GPU right away, or else it could be sitting there potentially for months.


----------



## Palito93

Biggu said:


> Yikes, I was going to offer them my 3090 strix for waterblock but seeing that Shawnb99 is upset makes me reconsider.


By the time you get your 3090 and an Optimus block, Nvidia already announced and released the 4090 lol

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## tbrown7552

Shawnb99 said:


> I’ll be sending my card in as well... if I can ever get a reply that is.


I was supposed to send them mine back in December. I let them know i got the card twice. No response.


----------



## Shawnb99

The infuriating part is it’s only getting worse not better.


----------



## evilbob2200

Shawnb99 said:


> The infuriating part is it’s only getting worse not better.


they should prob hire another person for answering stuff it seems like matt is the only person doing it.


----------



## JustinThyme

sakete said:


> I went from originally Canon, to Olympus, to Nikon, and now back to Canon where I'll stay. Not switching systems ever again.
> 
> I had some nice EF glass, some if it L, that I got rid of when I switched to Olympus. Still regret that.
> 
> Now I'm going to slowly build up a nice RF glass collection. Still hoping Sigma will make Art lenses for the RF mount, would love to get a 50 and 85 f/1.4. I really don't need f/1.2 and that Canon L f/1.2 glass is ridiculously expensive.
> 
> Otherwise I will get some used EF L glass, especially for tele focal lengths, but I need the EF-RF adapter for that.
> 
> Seriously though, the AF on that R5 is like magic. And I love having those Canon colors again.


The 85 1.2 is not cheap nor is any of fast L glass lineup which is all of what I own. F2.8 or less. You think that 85 is expensive? Try on the 200 2.0 when you can find them and the 200 1.8 that is a unicorn and sells for up to 10K depending on condition. Mine is 30 years old and still looks new. 

I had an Olympus many years ago, before digital was even a thought. After I wasted a ton of money On film because it overexposed with a bad metering system in got rid of it and never looked back. Went to Canon and been there ever since. Still have my first film body that I do black and white with now and then. The back and forth crap I see with a lot of pros is actually ridiculous and funny at the same time. I don’t consider myself a pro because it’s not my primary and only source of income and I actually produce better results that a lot of those who call themselves pro. I’ve done some pro sports shooting and been published. And looked at some of the crap these guys who do it for a living turn in, I’d be embarrassed. I’m strictly free lance with it and in that sense I don’t get paid a salary to turn in garbage but get big $$ when sell a single image to multiple sources and make $10K+ from it and retain the copyright.


----------



## Section31

evilbob2200 said:


> they should prob hire another person for answering stuff it seems like matt is the only person doing it.


Yeah that's what most of us think. Just hire someone to act as your pr/customer service person. Let the regular staff handle the production and design side. They still have lot of products in design phase.


----------



## Section31

Palito93 said:


> By the time you get your 3090 and an Optimus block, Nvidia already announced and released the 4090 lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


It might be. Honestly speaking, its time to sit out of the pc building game for at least 18-24months. I just see AM5, RDNA3 and 5nm products being delayed till 2023/2024 now. Intel 7nm same thing whenever they can resolve the issues with the fabs. Nvidia should really double down on Hopper and give up refresh of Ampere (Love Lace). Good time to start planning to save and cut down tech gadget spending outside of stuff you absolutely need or breaks down. Time to invest in AMD, Intel, Nvidia, TSMC shares in the meantime.


----------



## LiquidHaus

sakete said:


> Yeah, it's a mess for sure with all kinds of things. I managed to snag a Canon EOS R5 last year after waiting about 3 months for any availability. And then lenses are hard to come by, EF-RF adapter is nowhere to be found. I'm still debating buying a 5950X as well, but yeah supply is non-existent for that, and now I'm thinking I might just stick with my 3900X and perhaps just upgrade when it's AM5 (or if Intel finally wakes up and brings out something that's better). Though the 5950X at the same time remains tempting, as I can just plop it in my current system without changing anything and would give a couple years longer life than my 3900X.
> 
> So yeah, I understand delays. I just don't understand when there's no communication  My most recent exchange with Optimus, after weeks of silence, was this Monday, saying they'd get back to me by end of day on Monday. Well, guess what happened...


I have a 5950X still on pre-order from BH back from Nov 7th when they released. A friend of mine found a 5950X for me at a Microcenter and so I snagged that. So technically I still have a second 5950X coming that will be at a lower MSRP than now since they've raised prices on everything. If you want it, lemme know. I've been debating on whether to cancel the pre-order but since they've raised pricing, it's what has kept me from canceling.


----------



## sakete

LiquidHaus said:


> I have a 5950X still on pre-order from BH back from Nov 7th when they released. A friend of mine found a 5950X for me at a Microcenter and so I snagged that. So technically I still have a second 5950X coming that will be at a lower MSRP than now since they've raised prices on everything. If you want it, lemme know. I've been debating on whether to cancel the pre-order but since they've raised pricing, it's what has kept me from canceling.


Oh, thanks for the offer, but don't hold that pre-order for me. I'm not sure yet I want to do it. Last year I put a ton of money in my PC, going from a 4790K to a 3900X + new case, mobo, ram, gpu, and then went from air-cooling to full custom waterloop. I think this year I might focus on getting some lenses and perhaps a few other things I need/want. And depending on if we end up finishing our basement, I will also need to buy more speakers and a new TV, etc.

I have 3 hobbies: computers, photography, and audio. They're all very expensive hobbies  And I unfortunately don't have unlimited money.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> I have a 5950X still on pre-order from BH back from Nov 7th when they released. A friend of mine found a 5950X for me at a Microcenter and so I snagged that. So technically I still have a second 5950X coming that will be at a lower MSRP than now since they've raised prices on everything. If you want it, lemme know. I've been debating on whether to cancel the pre-order but since they've raised pricing, it's what has kept me from canceling.


That's nice. I had opportunity to get one at 1300Cad but I choice to hold out for B&H at 1191Cad. Rather not spend that 100cad but kind of regret it with further delays lol. Good idea to keep around, i'm sure someone would take it off your hands.


----------



## sakete

@Shawnb99 If you still believe in GME, now's a good time to buy more, though I wouldn't be surprised if it goes even lower first. I'm almost tempted to buy some myself, but I kind of swore off gambling like that years ago. Either way I don't have any free funds in my brokerage account for that now, so I'd first need to transfer money which'll take a couple days.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> It might be. Honestly speaking, its time to sit out of the pc building game for at least 18-24months. I just see AM5, RDNA3 and 5nm products being delayed till 2023/2024 now. Intel 7nm same thing whenever they can resolve the issues with the fabs. Nvidia should really double down on Hopper and give up refresh of Ampere (Love Lace). Good time to start planning to save and cut down tech gadget spending outside of stuff you absolutely need or breaks down. Time to invest in AMD, Intel, Nvidia, TSMC shares in the meantime.


I did change some of my portfolio around the announcement of Intel and TSMC. AMD is too high ATM and don’t see it going up and neither did my financial advisor. They said it’s more likely to drop following a peak and now is the time to sell it if you have it. A lot of AMD only people say Intel is going down but the net worth comparisons of the two aren’t even close with AMD at $6 Billion and Intel at $27 Billion and they are also looking to expand into the GPU market. Surely some big things coming within a year or two. For me I’m good where I am until something significantly better comes along, right now it’s just not there and won’t be as the only new platform is socket 1200 and I suspect that will be short lived. Everything is at the end of life. AM4, 1151, X299, TRX all finished. A lot will happen among them all and I don’t intend on jumping on the first thing to roll out when it does.


----------



## Avacado

JustinThyme said:


> I did change some of my portfolio around the announcement of Intel and TSMC. AMD is too high ATM and don’t see it going up and neither did my financial advisor. They said it’s more likely to drop following a peak and now is the time to sell it if you have it. A lot of AMD only people say Intel is going down but the net worth comparisons of the two aren’t even close with AMD at $6 Billion and Intel at $27 Billion and they are also looking to expand into the GPU market. Surely some big things coming within a year or two. For me I’m good where I am until something significantly better comes along, right now it’s just not there and won’t be as the only new platform is socket 1200 and I suspect that will be short lived. Everything is at the end of life. AM4, 1151, X299, TRX all finished. A lot will happen among them all and I don’t intend on jumping on the first thing to roll out when it does.


Indeed, I bought up Intel when it dipped below 50$ a share a few months back when AMD was soaring. Also snagged Micron @44$ when I found it was the only thing backing the newer GPU's.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I did change some of my portfolio around the announcement of Intel and TSMC. AMD is too high ATM and don’t see it going up and neither did my financial advisor. They said it’s more likely to drop following a peak and now is the time to sell it if you have it. A lot of AMD only people say Intel is going down but the net worth comparisons of the two aren’t even close with AMD at $6 Billion and Intel at $27 Billion and they are also looking to expand into the GPU market. Surely some big things coming within a year or two. For me I’m good where I am until something significantly better comes along, right now it’s just not there and won’t be as the only new platform is socket 1200 and I suspect that will be short lived. Everything is at the end of life. AM4, 1151, X299, TRX all finished. A lot will happen among them all and I don’t intend on jumping on the first thing to roll out when it does.


Next socket is LGA1700 (for Alderlake, MeteorLake, One more chip). Next big thing i suspect will be around that time 2023-2025 (assuming the economy holds up).


----------



## Section31

Avacado said:


> Indeed, I bought up Intel when it dipped below 50$ a share a few months back when AMD was soaring. Also snagged Micron @44$ when I found it was the only thing backing the newer GPU's.


Good choice also. Forgot about micron lol.


----------



## JustinThyme

Avacado said:


> Indeed, I bought up Intel when it dipped below 50$ a share a few months back when AMD was soaring. Also snagged Micron @44$ when I found it was the only thing backing the newer GPU's.


Snagged 1000 shares last October for $44/share. Closed today at $58.79. Peaked Jan 21 at $62 then a decline but now a steady slope back up. I’m gonna sit on it for awhile. I’m not one to make moves on an hourly basis. I only have a few large ventures, most of my 401K is in low yield low risk money market accounts and has been there since before 2008 as I saw that sh!t coming. I know people who lost hundreds of thousands. I’m not looking to get rich, just be able to retire comfortably. My best investment is just taking 6% of my annual salary as my company matches 100% up to that point. A bit hard to turn down doubling your money out of the gate. Been there 20 years and rolled over previous 401 right into it. Like I said only a few ventures over $10K, Intel is one of them and as of today I’m up $13K on that investment. I’m getting closer hanging up my hat. Less than 2 years for sure even though no SS for awhile not that it will be more than a drop in the bucket of my retirement income if it’s there at all. That’s the single biggest Ponzi scheme of all time. If I’d just be able to keep all the money I paid in I’d have retired 10 years ago in a comfortable fashion. When I look at how much I’ve paid I that joke over my lifetime I wanna puke. Single biggest holder of the national debt. The government says it’s broke and I’m like BS, you pilfered over $3 Trillion or it would have a massive surplus and people who depend only on that for income could actually afford to retire and not eat cat food.


----------



## Avacado

JustinThyme said:


> Snagged 1000 shares last October for $44/share. Closed today at $58.79. Peaked Jan 21 at $62 then a decline but now a steady slope back up. I’m gonna sit on it for awhile. I’m not one to make moves on an hourly basis. I only have a few large ventures, most of my 401K is in low yield low risk money market accounts and has been there since before 2008 as I saw that sh!t coming. I know people who lost hundreds of thousands. I’m not looking to get rich, just be able to retire comfortably. My best investment is just taking 6% of my annual salary as my company matches 100% up to that point. A bit hard to turn down doubling your money out of the gate. Been there 20 years and rolled over previous 401 right into it. Like I said only a few ventures over $10K, Intel is one of them and as of today I’m up $13K on that investment. I’m getting closer hanging up my hat. Less than 2 years for sure even though no SS for awhile not that it will be more than a drop in the bucket of my retirement income if it’s there at all. That’s the single biggest Ponzi scheme of all time. If I’d just be able to keep all the money I paid in I’d have retired 10 years ago in a comfortable fashion. When I look at how much I’ve paid I that joke over my lifetime I wanna puke. Single biggest holder of the national debt. The government says it’s broke and I’m like BS, you pilfered over $3 Trillion or it would have a massive surplus and people who depend only on that for income could actually afford to retire and not eat cat food.


Thats a good plan, i'm about 10 years out from retirement. Fed matched my TSP 5%, 6% would be sweet. I usually do long holds in tech I know is undervalued.


----------



## JustinThyme

Avacado said:


> Thats a good plan, i'm about 10 years out from retirement. Fed matched my TSP 5%, 6% would be sweet. I usually do long holds in tech I know is undervalued.


Gotta be careful with it. Dont got balls deep. Friend of mine blew the wad on lucent technologies during the dot com boom. Went to bed one night with a a bit over a million portfolio he had dump the lot into lucent and it was at $128/share. He let it ride one day too long, woke up the next morning broke as a joke at 24 cents a share and will be working until he is buried. That why I leave the bulk riding in low risk and low paying 2% annual growth markets. I double it then let it ride. Best strategy I can think of. Ive yet to double anything from just straight up stock purchase with the exception of when I bought up every share they would let me have in a company stock options push. Two options and I invested every penny they would let my. A few years later they bought up American Power Conversion aka APC and the stock went through roof and split. My 12K turned into 80K and I cashed out when it peaked and I was past my 5 year period I had to hold it at $128 a share. Its now down to 90 after a rebound from like 65. That again was all over the 2008 sh!t show.


----------



## Sir Beregond

JustinThyme said:


> Less than 2 years for sure even though no SS for awhile not that it will be more than a drop in the bucket of my retirement income if it’s there at all. That’s the single biggest Ponzi scheme of all time. If I’d just be able to keep all the money I paid in I’d have retired 10 years ago in a comfortable fashion. When I look at how much I’ve paid I that joke over my lifetime I wanna puke. Single biggest holder of the national debt. The government says it’s broke and I’m like BS, you pilfered over $3 Trillion or it would have a massive surplus and people who depend only on that for income could actually afford to retire and not eat cat food.


Well said. Everytime I look at how much money goes into it I just think of how much I could have invested and grown it myself instead. Makes me sick.

So any idea when the AM4 blocks come back in stock? The nickel plated one looks pretty nice and would go well with my theme.


----------



## alexsoxfan01

Optimus planning to release more ftw3 blocks this Friday at 12 est? I missed the last drop completely


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Looks like they're shipping ftw3 blocks again. 2829 has shipped.


----------



## straha20

Any ideas where in the shipping batches the blemish sale items are shipping?


----------



## Palito93

straha20 said:


> Any ideas where in the shipping batches the blemish sale items are shipping?


Thank you for sharing. Kinda sad that we have to rely on customers to know where we're at lol

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk

Edit: looks like i quoted the wrong post lol


----------



## Phroz3

Edge0fsanity said:


> Looks like they're shipping ftw3 blocks again. 2829 has shipped.


Congrats! Wish I knew what the last order number from batch 2 was. I was one of the first to order the 3rd batch last Friday. I know I got a lot of time to wait but it is nice knowing where you stand.


----------



## Palito93

Phroz3 said:


> Congrats! Wish I knew what the last order number from batch 2 was. I was one of the first to order the 3rd batch last Friday. I know I got a lot of time to wait but it is nice knowing where you stand.


I've seen some batch 2 around the low 3000s, like 3010 or something like that on twitter

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## BiLLbOuS

straha20 said:


> Any ideas where in the shipping batches the blemish sale items are shipping?


Got mine yesterday was one tiny little you have to strain your eyes to see.


----------



## BiLLbOuS

evilbob2200 said:


> they should prob hire another person for answering stuff it seems like matt is the only person doing it.


Probably one or 2 people trying to do everything and a bit of a perfectionist, and OCD. This would lead me to believe a reluctance to delegate.


----------



## Palito93

I just got my shipping notification. Order 2854

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## straha20

BiLLbOuS said:


> Got mine yesterday was one tiny little you have to strain your eyes to see.


What was your blemish order number? Mine is 3555.


----------



## Phroz3

Palito93 said:


> I just got my shipping notification. Order 2854
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Congrats!!!!


----------



## Biggu

straha20 said:


> What was your blemish order number? Mine is 3555.


Mine was 3405 and delivered yesterday. Mine had a small mark right under where the mounting mechanism goes. Such a really nice block! Now just waiting for 11900k and Asus z590 extreme to come out so I can do my upgrade.


----------



## Raiden2a

I was in batch2 at #3045 but optd in for a blemish. Got it a few weeks ago. Took a bit but found the blemish on the card side of the block.


----------



## Phroz3

Anyone else get shipping notification today?


----------



## mmmz

Phroz3 said:


> Congrats! Wish I knew what the last order number from batch 2 was. I was one of the first to order the 3rd batch last Friday. I know I got a lot of time to wait but it is nice knowing where you stand.


What order # are you?


----------



## Phroz3

mmmz said:


> What order # are you?


3478 I believe. From last Friday. I know I have a long wait but want to know when batch 2 is finished shipping.


----------



## JustinThyme

Sir Beregond said:


> Well said. Everytime I look at how much money goes into it I just think of how much I could have invested and grown it myself instead. Makes me sick.
> 
> So any idea when the AM4 blocks come back in stock? The nickel plated one looks pretty nice and would go well with my theme.


Hell even just banking it without investment would have resulted in more than I will ever see from it if anything. They keep pilfering and there won’t be anything left. I’m tired of hearing politicians talk about how the SS coffers are in the red.....THEY put it there! Another way our great government steals from us. $3 freakin Trillion!!! That should never have come to pass, EVER. The intention was so people could retire without having to enroll in the welfare program, they killed that idea! My mother gets like $1200/month. Cheap apartment near me is more than that and you still have utilities and food to worry about and a car and insurance and medical bills. Pretty much the only option if you don’t have your own back is checking into a nursing home.


----------



## Swiso

Well...apparently no batch available to buy today at noon EST, contrary to what they said...
Pretty frustrating.


----------



## Phroz3

Swiso said:


> Well...apparently no batch available to buy today at noon EST, contrary to what they said...
> Pretty frustrating.


I noticed that as well. Was hoping some AMD CPU blocks would have dropped.


----------



## Swiso

Phroz3 said:


> I noticed that as well. Was hoping some AMD CPU blocks would have dropped.


Yeah. Was hoping for a 3090 GPU Block...just missed by a little last friday...was able to put one block in the cart but by the time I made the payment it was gone. 
Frustrating....


----------



## Swiso

Double post


----------



## Phroz3

Swiso said:


> Yeah. Was hoping for a 3090 GPU Block...just missed by a little...was able to put one block in the cart but by the time I made the payment it was gone.
> Frustrating....


They didn't release that many. I got my order in within the first 15 seconds of them going live last Fri but I heard they were sold out within a minute. Best guess (compared orders with others) is that about 50 were sold.


----------



## Swiso

Phroz3 said:


> They didn't release that many. I got my order in within the first 15 seconds of them going live last Fri but I heard they were sold out within a minute. Best guess (compared orders with others) is that about 50 were sold.


Yes, but then why tell "EVERY FRIDAY AT NOON" (wrote in big letters) when you know that you probably won't have any batch this Friday ?
I would rather being able to make a pre-order, rather to wait a week, be there at noon EST, keep pushing F5 like an idiot, when there's no batch to sell....I mean...
Who care at this point if it take two, three, four weeks...at least you know your part is being worked on....
Anyway...


----------



## lordkahless

Phroz3 said:


> Anyone else get shipping notification today?


2865 on the FTW3 block and no shipping notification yet for me. Place the order October 31st in the morning.


----------



## Section31

Swiso said:


> Yes, but then why tell "EVERY FRIDAY AT NOON" (wrote in big letters) when you know that you probably won't have any batch this Friday ?
> I would rather being able to make a pre-order, rather to wait a week, be there at noon EST, keep pushing F5 like an idiot, when there's no batch to sell....I mean...
> Who care at this point if it take two, three, four weeks...at least you know your part is being worked on....
> Anyway...


It's Optimus. There are reasons why people rant on here about them.


----------



## Wihglah

Got my FTW3 block shipping notification : order number in the 2840's


----------



## lordkahless

I just got a shipping notification as well 2865 for my FTW3 block.


----------



## mmmz

Phroz3 said:


> 3478 I believe. From last Friday. I know I have a long wait but want to know when batch 2 is finished shipping.


Nice I'm 3484 so I'm just a few behind you. Hopefully they come this month!


----------



## Phroz3

mmmz said:


> Nice I'm 3484 so I'm just a few behind you. Hopefully they come this month!


I hope so but I also do not count on it lol. Just happy to have my place in line and to be able to have the beauty on my card eventually. You must have been hitting that F5 button as well lol.


----------



## DedRonin

Mine just shipped. 2897


----------



## Sir Beregond

JustinThyme said:


> Hell even just banking it without investment would have resulted in more than I will ever see from it if anything. They keep pilfering and there won’t be anything left. I’m tired of hearing politicians talk about how the SS coffers are in the red.....THEY put it there! Another way our great government steals from us. $3 freakin Trillion!!! That should never have come to pass, EVER. The intention was so people could retire without having to enroll in the welfare program, they killed that idea! My mother gets like $1200/month. Cheap apartment near me is more than that and you still have utilities and food to worry about and a car and insurance and medical bills. Pretty much the only option if you don’t have your own back is checking into a nursing home.


Yep, its downright criminal. Pilfered for their political nonsense, meanwhile grandma and grandpa have to eat cans of dog food. It's downright disgusting.


----------



## Phroz3

DedRonin said:


> Mine just shipped. 2897


Congrats! I created a thread over on the EVGA forum as well. Hoping people over there will chime in and we can get a semi accurate finger on the pulse of where we are at.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> Congrats! I created a thread over on the EVGA forum as well. Hoping people over there will chime in and we can get a semi accurate finger on the pulse of where we are at.


I'm 3505 so far behind but there are how many of those in between orders are mainly from blemish sales. Those blemish sales items are not effected by the ftw3 waterblock delay i imagine. If they can come with FTW3 block by End of March, I call it an win for them considering EKWB is backlogged till April and Heatkiller/Aquacomputer are suffering delays in releasing there FTW3 blocks.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> I'm 3505 so far behind but there are how many of those in between orders are mainly from blemish sales. Those blemish sales items are not effected by the ftw3 waterblock delay i imagine. If they can come with FTW3 block by End of March, I call it an win for them considering EKWB is backlogged till April and Heatkiller/Aquacomputer are suffering delays in releasing there FTW3 blocks.


That is what I was thinking. Most of the sales between 3100 and 3450 are likely blemishes, CPU blocks, and resevoirs/fittings.


----------



## JustinThyme

Sir Beregond said:


> Yep, its downright criminal. Pilfered for their political nonsense, meanwhile grandma and grandpa have to eat cans of dog food. It's downright disgusting.


Exactly. Problem is we are all going to be there some day. If they don’t push the retirement age back so far it becomes a death benefit. That was another thing that chapped my A$S was when they called SS an entitlement and without going overboard and calling out names a certain high ranking political official who entered office almost 40 years ago broke but is now worth $120million said that people collecting their SS entitlement were leaches on the Governments Teat. Well it’s not an entitlement, they paid into all their lives and will never see what they paid in. I get really offended when people say they spend money like a drunken sailor. I once was a drunken sailor and even in my most inebriated state I knew to stop spending money ONCE I WAS BROKE!! I’ll shut up while I’m still behind.....


----------



## straha20

I managed to get the last 6 pack of Optimus Satin Silver 1/2" hardline fittings in stock at PPCs because I wanted to play around with them a bit, maybe paint them. Then my wife saw them, and now I am needing another 24 to change out all of my fittings...

@Optimus WC Any estimates on when the 1/2" silver hardline fittings will be back in stock? I need 24 of them.


----------



## JustinThyme

straha20 said:


> I managed to get the last 6 pack of Optimus Satin Silver 1/2" hardline fittings in stock at PPCs because I wanted to play around with them a bit, maybe paint them. Then my wife saw them, and now I am needing another 24 to change out all of my fittings...
> 
> @Optimus WC Any estimates on when the 1/2" silver hardline fittings will be back in stock? I need 24 of them.



Good luck! Especially with 24.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Good luck! Especially with 24.


I am actually debating giving up on ryzen platform this year lol. 5950x delay if it till summers and with intel alderlake being possibly good (and lga1700 being multigenerational), may jump ship back to intel lol.


----------



## acoustic

Intel hype train. CHOO CHOO


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I am actually debating giving up on ryzen platform this year lol. 5950x delay if it till summers and with intel alderlake being possibly good (and lga1700 being multigenerational), may jump ship back to intel lol.


I’m sticking where I am for awhile. My rig does everything I need and then some. If I stay with Intel it’s going to be socket 4677. For the next year or two there’s nothing there for me worth the investment of changing over. I’m not the guy who camps outside of the Apple store waiting on the next release. So 10980XE and a pair of 2080Tis is where I’ll be for at least a year if not two or more. If you are gaming the 8700K is still holding ground.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Intel hype train. CHOO CHOO


Just getting impatient slightly . Even the most patient get jumpy at times.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

My new Optimus fittings don’t screw into my new Optimus CPU block. I emailed customer service on Thursday but haven’t heard back.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I’m sticking where I am for awhile. My rig does everything I need and then some. If I stay with Intel it’s going to be socket 4677. For the next year or two there’s nothing there for me worth the investment of changing over. I’m not the guy who camps outside of the Apple store waiting on the next release. So 10980XE and a pair of 2080Tis is where I’ll be for at least a year if not two or more. If you are gaming the 8700K is still holding ground.


Totally True. It’s going to be interesting what comes out first for me. Optimus Waterblock shipping and heatkiller coming out with its new internal radiators lol. Last part that i haven’t ordered and I need two of them (360mm) to complete my build. Almost bought two more gts360 but decided to hold out.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> My new Optimus fittings don’t screw into my new Optimus CPU block. I emailed customer service on Thursday but haven’t heard back.


That sucks, better email them (they are overloaded as usual) so many of us have no response


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Totally True. It’s going to be interesting what comes out first for me. Optimus Waterblock shipping and heatkiller coming out with its new internal radiators lol. Last part that i haven’t ordered and I need two of them (360mm) to complete my build. Almost bought two more gts360 but decided to hold out.


I’m moving towards mostly external. I’ll leave a couple inside but my big cooler is in the process of moving over to a MORA-3 420. If that doesn’t do it chiller here I come. Koolance just upped their 800W to a 900W. I’m not looking to go sub ambient, just keep the liquid temp at air ambient, the MORA may be close enough. That’s a lot of copper and fins up in this thing. Working on it now along with some other things. Draining ATM just to get it down enough to change out the CPU block so I can test the foundation against the rest. I’d like to get my hands on one of the flat Sig V2 housings and was told to just contact them here to get a blem just to see what it does. Of course thus far I’ve got the usual.....crickets.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I’m moving towards mostly external. I’ll leave a couple inside but my big cooler is in the process of moving over to a MORA-3 420. If that doesn’t do it chiller here I come. Koolance just upped their 800W to a 900W. I’m not looking to go sub ambient, just keep the liquid temp at air ambient, the MORA may be close enough. That’s a lot of copper and fins up in this thing. Working on it now along with some other things.


That's an interesting project. Heatkiller will be coming with updated Mo-Ra3 down the road and i might consider even that. I see a lot of room for external radiator to go and after seeing what LiquidHaus did with his SFF, that will be what i do when I do an SFF build down the road. Whenever i update the components inside my Caselabs down the road, make an SFF external watercooled PC at that time with the old CPU, ram, etc


----------



## JustinThyme

Initial runs with Foundation installed. Im not seeing much difference between this and the Sig V2 or either variant of the Magnitude. They are all in the same ball park. Ive not added the MORA to the loop yet so this is still as all others were tested., may 2C cooler ambient although when I get the MORA in the loop Im gonna stick that sucker in the window with 0C ambient or less and run heavier loads up to 5GHz or more. Didnt save the screen capture but 4.7GHz Blender AVX workload was only 2C warmer on the hottest core. Gonna shut it down and let is rest overnight then check torque on the thumbscrews. They are as tight as I can get them without the use of tools, did one run of spring mounts and wish I hadn't wasted my time as I had to bleed back down to get to the posts and change them, about 4C higher.


At 4.7 GHz















At 4.8 GHz


----------



## JustinThyme

Just so Someone doesnt come crying about I didnt run Blender. Here is full blender AVX benchmark at 4.8 GHz all cores. IIRC that other guy was past 90 on the same test @4.7 after the hacksaw on 4 fewer cores. I drop it back to 4.7 @ 1.185 and the temp drops about 7-8C on max core which is what I always reference.
This is foundation right out of the box with the springless mounting kit and Krynaught, same as two above. Now Its time to quit screwing around with blocks for awhile. Im going to leave this one in and continue to the MORA 420 install. Still waiting on the flat Sig 2 blem I was told to contact them here. Posted and sent PM........as usual....crickets. Just want to see if that runs better than the original SigV2 with the Oring pulled out or stock for that matter on a 10980XE.


----------



## JustinThyme

0451 said:


> My new Optimus fittings don’t screw into my new Optimus CPU block. I emailed customer service on Thursday but haven’t heard back.


After all that? Its the threads on the block? Supposed to be all standard G 1/4. Ill stick with my trusty Bitspower.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> That's an interesting project. Heatkiller will be coming with updated Mo-Ra3 down the road and i might consider even that. I see a lot of room for external radiator to go and after seeing what LiquidHaus did with his SFF, that will be what i do when I do an SFF build down the road. Whenever i update the components inside my Caselabs down the road, make an SFF external watercooled PC at that time with the old CPU, ram, etc


Makes Sense when you have unobstructed flow of ambient air (or put it in the window in the window or aim AC at it in the summer that it will cool better. Just looking at this monstrosity its got to cool better. Tubes crosses like 4 time each row with 20 rows. I thought my double pass GTR 420 was a monster with double pass and about the same number of rows but its once over and once back, this thing is over and back on 40 tubes and 33sqft of fins. Ill let you know before the week is out. Probably get most of the outer part done tomorrow but then have to flip my GPUs back to standard from a vertical mount so I can free up PCIE slots for the coolant I/O and putting my 900P cards back or maybe just the 905P U2 drive with an X4 PCIE-U2 adapter. Gonna miss the beauty of vertical mounted heatkiller blocks but the just take up all the PCIE slots and block my safe, retry, and BIOS swich in the bottom. Looks great, just not practical on this build.


----------



## Wihglah

FTW3 WB Order #OP2842 arrived today. Will be fitted in the next few hours.


----------



## Phroz3

Wihglah said:


> FTW3 WB Order #OP2842 arrived today. Will be fitted in the next few hours.


Come back and show it off once you get it all sorted out.


----------



## Wihglah

Phroz3 said:


> Come back and show it off once you get it all sorted out.


Well, she isn't pretty yet - fitted the block and got it plumbed in. I need to drill some holes in the new PSU Shroud at the weekend for the hard lines.

Temps are amazing. It's easily 6C below where my 980ti was at idle (EK block). At 450W she is about 40C after about half an hour. Probably about 100MHz faster and the 8x Noctua A12x25s never see above 1000rpm


----------



## Phroz3

Wihglah said:


> Well, she isn't pretty yet - fitted the block and got it plumbed in. I need to drill some holes in the new PSU Shroud at the weekend for the hard lines.
> 
> Temps are amazing. It's easily 6C below where my 980ti was at idle (EK block). At 450W she is about 40C after about half an hour. Probably about 100MHz faster and the 8x Noctua A12x25s never see above 1000rpm


It is such a beautiful block. I do plan to use my hobby knife to cut out the thermal pad in the areas on the right side of the PCB where the thermal pad sticks through. Hope I remember to do that haha.


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> It is such a beautiful block. I do plan to use my hobby knife to cut out the thermal pad in the areas on the right side of the PCB where the thermal pad sticks through. Hope I remember to do that haha.


Yep, first thing I plan on doing during maintenance time.


----------



## straha20

0451 said:


> My new Optimus fittings don’t screw into my new Optimus CPU block. I emailed customer service on Thursday but haven’t heard back.


Messaged them last Tuesday and Wednesday about an order I placed, and nothing back at all.


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> Yep, first thing I plan on doing during maintenance time.


I was going to show you what I am thinking of doing to add RGB to mine ones it gets here. Mine is vertical so clearance shouldn't be a huge concern but I will still measure but I found these tracks with diffuser that are meant to hold a 10mm wide RGB strip. Thinking I could run a bead of silicone down either side of the track and attach it to the acrylic on the bottom edge. That way I could replace the strip when/if needed. Hoping the acrylic is thick enough.



Aluminum Track for 12V LED Strip


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> I was going to show you what I am thinking of doing to add RGB to mine ones it gets here. Mine is vertical so clearance shouldn't be a huge concern but I will still measure but I found these tracks with diffuser that are meant to hold a 10mm wide RGB strip. Thinking I could run a bead of silicone down either side of the track and attach it to the acrylic on the bottom edge. That way I could replace the strip when/if needed. Hoping the acrylic is thick enough.
> 
> 
> 
> Aluminum Track for 12V LED Strip


I had considered that option actually, but the acrylic front and cold plate run flush at the bottom, so no way to really neatly attach it.


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> I had considered that option actually, but the acrylic front and cold plate run flush at the bottom, so no way to really neatly attach it.


As long is the acrylic is 15.2mm thick or thicker it should work.


----------



## gengar

0451 said:


> My new Optimus fittings don’t screw into my new Optimus CPU block. I emailed customer service on Thursday but haven’t heard back.


This is typical for Optimus unfortunately, sorry you're going through this.


----------



## Section31

gengar said:


> This is typical for Optimus unfortunately, sorry you're going through this.


Yup they go through periods where they respond and periods when they don't. I'm still asking about how to get that 15% off lol (if it even exists for that matter).


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> As long is the acrylic is 15.2mm thick or thicker it should work.


12mm


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> 12mm


Well darn  better to know now though. Thank you.


----------



## hellzlegend

Section31 said:


> Yup they go through periods where they respond and periods when they don't. I'm still asking about how to get that 15% off lol (if it even exists for that matter).


From my experience, even when they do respond, it's very random/odd in how they respond. When I first contacted them, I received a response within an hour. After that I had to constantly alternate between email and the contact page multiple times to get a reply. Like I would send an email replying to their message multiple times but not get a reply so I used the contact page on their website to message them and would get a reply pretty fast. Then they wouldn't get back to me using their website but would respond to email. Currently, it seems like they aren't responding to any messages. I haven't been able to contact them for almost a month. It's been really frustrating.


----------



## Section31

hellzlegend said:


> From my experience, even when they do respond, it's very random/odd in how they respond. When I first contacted them, I received a response within an hour. After that I had to constantly alternate between email and the contact page multiple times to get a reply. Like I would send an email replying to their message multiple times but not get a reply so I used the contact page on their website to message them and would get a reply pretty fast. Then they wouldn't get back to me using their website but would respond to email. Currently, it seems like they aren't responding to any messages. I haven't been able to contact them for almost a month. It's been really frustrating.


Common issue. Optimus needs to improve on communication part.


----------



## sakete

Well... I finally got a response and they said they'd get a block out to me this week. Finally!


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Well... I finally got a response and they said they'd get a block out to me this week. Finally!


Congrats.


----------



## acoustic

I'll save the congratulations until you actually have it in hand ..


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I'll save the congratulations until you actually have it in hand ..


I'm hoping they honor that 15% offer they were saying back in early January.


----------



## sakete

acoustic said:


> I'll save the congratulations until you actually have it in hand ..


Well yeah, I was wondering if by posting it here I'd jinx it.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Well yeah, I was wondering if by posting it here I'd jinx it.


Got an reply also. Had to send new message. Still have to get the code applied to the order though.


----------



## HyperMatrix

This behavior with regard to the incredibly poor communication from Optimus is really unfortunate. They're selling a very expensive premium product and that usually comes with better customer service. In terms of marketing, a lot of the higher priced stores or service providers sell the exact same items with a larger markup, but provide a superior level of customer service and satisfaction, which in turn makes people happy to pay more, in order to get that higher quality service.

In a study they did a few years back for the mobile phone industry, they found that customers were completely ok with paying $20 or $30 more per month for the same cell phone plan if they felt valued and their concerns cared for whenever they called in to report a problem they had. Because in that situation, they were paying more, but were also getting more. Not in terms of reception or download speeds, but in terms of customer service. The conclusion was that there wasn't as much of a need to compete on price for the majority of customers, if you were able to make them feel appreciated.

Optimus is failing greatly on that front. Their products from what I hear are quite good, but they're not the undisputed king, and in cases where they are in the lead, the lead is realistically marginal. They're already charging I believe 2x-3x higher than others for their GPU blocks for mostly the same level of performance. And they also refuse to engage and communicate with their customer base in a meaningful way. You look online and the top 3 things people say about Optimus: 1) Overpriced 2) Bad communication/liars/not sticking to their own word or comments 3) Good quality. The problem is that in order to be successful and to grow, you need to win on 2 of those 3 things (Price/Customer Service/Quality). Unfortunately, they've only got 1 right now. Quality. And if it weren't for the COVID related supply/demand issues that mean absolutely everything will sell out from anyone who makes it, they'd be hurting. Or at least not growing as fast as their competition. But who knows. Maybe they're happy with their current level of success and have no intention of growing beyond where they are now. If that's their goal...then that invalidates everything I've said above. But from a purely marketing perspective...it's a #fail when your brand name becomes synonymous with bad customer service and inability to stick to your word and keep your promises.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> This behavior with regard to the incredibly poor communication from Optimus is really unfortunate. They're selling a very expensive premium product and that usually comes with better customer service. In terms of marketing, a lot of the higher priced stores or service providers sell the exact same items with a larger markup, but provide a superior level of customer service and satisfaction, which in turn makes people happy to pay more, in order to get that higher quality service.
> 
> In a study they did a few years back for the mobile phone industry, they found that customers were completely ok with paying $20 or $30 more per month for the same cell phone plan if they felt valued and their concerns cared for whenever they called in to report a problem they had. Because in that situation, they were paying more, but were also getting more. Not in terms of reception or download speeds, but in terms of customer service. The conclusion was that there wasn't as much of a need to compete on price for the majority of customers, if you were able to make them feel appreciated.
> 
> Optimus is failing greatly on that front. Their products from what I hear are quite good, but they're not the undisputed king, and in cases where they are in the lead, the lead is realistically marginal. They're already charging I believe 2x-3x higher than others for their GPU blocks for mostly the same level of performance. And they also refuse to engage and communicate with their customer base in a meaningful way. You look online and the top 3 things people say about Optimus: 1) Overpriced 2) Bad communication/liars/not sticking to their own word or comments 3) Good quality. The problem is that in order to be successful and to grow, you need to win on 2 of those 3 things (Price/Customer Service/Quality). Unfortunately, they've only got 1 right now. Quality. And if it weren't for the COVID related supply/demand issues that mean absolutely everything will sell out from anyone who makes it, they'd be hurting. Or at least not growing as fast as their competition. But who knows. Maybe they're happy with their current level of success and have no intention of growing beyond where they are now. If that's their goal...then that invalidates everything I've said above. But from a purely marketing perspective...it's a #fail when your brand name becomes synonymous with bad customer service and inability to stick to your word and keep your promises.


Problem is most of the optimus buyers here in ocn are in the higher end group of watercooling (say top 10%) and many of us have bad experiences with ekwb. So guess what, we are limited to Heatkiller, Aquacomputer, Hardwarelabs. Slim pickings for us in general. Some of the people here are also sponsored too for most of there builds.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> Problem is most of the optimus buyers here in ocn are in the higher end group of watercooling (say top 10%) and many of us have bad experiences with ekwb. So guess what, we are limited to Heatkiller, Aquacomputer, Hardwarelabs. Slim pickings for us in general. Some of the people here are also sponsored too for most of there builds.


Personally I'd go Aquacomputer due to the active cooled backplate and the general quality of their blocks. They also have bad customer service. But they have good quality, and good prices. 2 out of the 3 things I mentioned above.  Unfortunately they're not making a block for the Kingpin so my options are the EVGA branded Asetek blocks or Optimus. And at this point I'm just going to go with whichever one I can buy first.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Personally I'd go Aquacomputer due to the active cooled backplate and the general quality of their blocks. They also have bad customer service. But they have good quality, and good prices. 2 out of the 3 things I mentioned above.  Unfortunately they're not making a block for the Kingpin so my options are the EVGA branded Asetek blocks or Optimus. And at this point I'm just going to go with whichever one I can buy first.


Kingpin is tough one. I am not fan of aquacomputer design. There cs is descent just that shipping costs from them are too much atm


----------



## Shawnb99

Just got my 30 blemish fittings but no Allen key. The description promised Allen keys for every 6 fittings, I should of got 5 of them. Yet I got nothing and there’s no hope of contacting CS since they isn’t any so lucky I got fittings before otherwise I’d have to look for an Allen key.

Besides I can’t get a ****ing response to save my life. Leave daily private messages and get ignored, send countless emails only to be ignored. If I had other options for my KPE block I’d take it cause at this point **** Optimus. Not a single person in that company responds to emails so **** them all. 

Time to find a new company to support


----------



## straha20

Shawnb99 said:


> Just got my 30 blemish fittings but no Allen key. The description promised Allen keys for every 6 fittings, I should of got 5 of them. Yet I got nothing and there’s no hope of contacting CS since they isn’t any so lucky I got fittings before otherwise I’d have to look for an Allen key.
> 
> Besides I can’t get a ing response to save my life. Leave daily private messages and get ignored, send countless emails only to be ignored. If I had other options for my KPE block I’d take it cause at this point Optimus. Not a single person in that company responds to emails so **** them all.
> 
> Time to find a new company to support


Give em a break. We're in a pandemic right now, and their allen keys probably have covid, and they have to take care of them which takes all their time, and is more important than responding to emails. They'll respond when they get the chance.


----------



## Shawnb99

straha20 said:


> Give em a break. We're in a pandemic right now, and their allen keys probably have covid, and they have to take care of them which takes all their time, and is more important than responding to emails. They'll respond when they get the chance.


I've given them many breaks. At some point enough is enough. Yes there is a pandemic but since CS can be done remotely that isn't a valid excuse.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Just got my 30 blemish fittings but no Allen key. The description promised Allen keys for every 6 fittings, I should of got 5 of them. Yet I got nothing and there’s no hope of contacting CS since they isn’t any so lucky I got fittings before otherwise I’d have to look for an Allen key.
> 
> Besides I can’t get a **ing response to save my life. Leave daily private messages and get ignored, send countless emails only to be ignored. If I had other options for my KPE block I’d take it cause at this point ** Optimus. Not a single person in that company responds to emails so **** them all.
> 
> Time to find a new company to support


I got tons of allen key. They are same as hardtube one. If you need one i have extra


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> Give em a break. We're in a pandemic right now, and their allen keys probably have covid, and they have to take care of them which takes all their time, and is more important than responding to emails. They'll respond when they get the chance.


I hope nvidia next gpu founders go back to reference board. I am done buying expensive aib just to get waterblock support. Hopefully more fabs, etc up (intel fix up your fab) so supply becomes less of issues.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> I got tons of allen key. They are same as hardtube one. If you need one i have extra


Thanks I got enough. Still have my 8 boxes of hardline with an Allen key each. Guess the included Allen key didn't include the Blemish sale


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Thanks I got enough. Still have my 8 boxes of hardline with an Allen key each. Guess the included Allen key didn't include the Blemish sale


While its a PITA They use all SAE sized hardware, can probably pick up or already have a hex key to fit. I get it though of not getting everything you need, even if it was one. As for COVID contaminated, if thats the case then they may as well close up shop as everything is contaminated if hex keys are. Honestly Im about fed up with the pandemic excuses from everyone. I work pretty much every day (granted I'm in the essential classification) but I go out to different places every day. They have to complete a survey and I have to complete a survey and wear a face covering. I walked out of one place because they insisted I remove my N95 mask in their contaminated lobby that has a good seal to put on what they consider to be the best option, the cheap blue ones with gaps on the sides. Didnt catch any flak about it from the regional director either as we have our protocol to meet and a cheap mask isn't it. Anything that comes into my home goes through decon in the garage first, bar none. I dont but fresh veggies just because I watch little old ladies picking though every piece and touching every piece. If they are contaminated then the entire produce section is. The worst place to go is the grocery store. The only place I wear gloves, take them off once everything is loaded up and lysol sprayed in my trunk. Then put on another pair when I get home and empty the bags on my decon table and toss the bags in the trash.....OUTSIDE. Then with gloves still on everything gets wiped down with a bleach solution and put on a clean table then when thats done I wipe down the decon table and toss the gloves. 10% bleach solution and that sheet is dead. Or if you like spending money high grade alcohol dip will take care of it. If its shipped in no matter the carrier it sits in the garage by the door for 3 days. Especially the bills and if its late then I blame it on COVID LMAO.


----------



## JustinThyme

straha20 said:


> Give em a break. We're in a pandemic right now, and their allen keys probably have covid, and they have to take care of them which takes all their time, and is more important than responding to emails. They'll respond when they get the chance.


I sent them a message and email two weeks ago now. The entire state must be COVID infected. Ive been giving them breaks from day one before COVID was even reported. Id say not here yet but that would be a lie as I know for fact someone that was infected by it NOV 2019 That brought it back from a convention center. They said thats not possible yet the only time this person was sick as hell and tested positive for the antibodies. My Daughter also had it on a college Campus last January and they also said not possible yet she has the antibodies too. One shipment I will refuse is anything from China even if that sheet sat in a shipping container pressurized with the strongest disinfectant known to man. Thing is they still dont know jack about it, where it came from and where its going or how many times its mutated. From the beginning in the US there were two strains. One that came in on the west coast directly from China and another on the east coast that also came from China VIA Europe. Two a$$hats who work in the BIOMED industry brought it back from Italy then commenced to travel all over the northeast spreading the love. The first cases in NJ came from those butt fleas who attended a private party and it spread out from there and they made multiple stops back up to Boston spreading it more.


----------



## sakete

JustinThyme said:


> While its a PITA They use all SAE sized hardware, can probably pick up or already have a hex key to fit. I get it though of not getting everything you need, even if it was one. As for COVID contaminated, if thats the case then they may as well close up shop as everything is contaminated if hex keys are. Honestly Im about fed up with the pandemic excuses from everyone. I work pretty much every day (granted I'm in the essential classification) but I go out to different places every day. They have to complete a survey and I have to complete a survey and wear a face covering. I walked out of one place because they insisted I remove my N95 mask in their contaminated lobby that has a good seal to put on what they consider to be the best option, the cheap blue ones with gaps on the sides. Didnt catch any flak about it from the regional director either as we have our protocol to meet and a cheap mask isn't it. Anything that comes into my home goes through decon in the garage first, bar none. I dont but fresh veggies just because I watch little old ladies picking though every piece and touching every piece. If they are contaminated then the entire produce section is. The worst place to go is the grocery store. The only place I wear gloves, take them off once everything is loaded up and lysol sprayed in my trunk. Then put on another pair when I get home and empty the bags on my decon table and toss the bags in the trash.....OUTSIDE. Then with gloves still on everything gets wiped down with a bleach solution and put on a clean table then when thats done I wipe down the decon table and toss the gloves. 10% bleach solution and that sheet is dead. Or if you like spending money high grade alcohol dip will take care of it. If its shipped in no matter the carrier it sits in the garage by the door for 3 days. Especially the bills and if its late then I blame it on COVID LMAO.


It doesn't appear that this virus sticking to surfaces is really a vector of infection. The viral load would simply be too low for anything to happen. I've been following the same hygiene practices as from before the pandemic, which is essentially only washing my hands after using the bathroom and before a meal. When the pandemic just hit I was at first washing my hands constantly, after touching anything outside of my house. But I stopped doing that about a couple months in as I was becoming too paranoid.

In general I try to avoid excessive hygiene and anything anti-bacterial. It's good for the body to get exposure to the environment, helps build up the immune system. There is even some research that suggests that the rise of allergies amongst younger people could be attributed to excessive hygiene, not allowing the body to build up resistance to naturally occurring things like pollen and otherwise harmless bacteria.

So yeah, I've been pretty laid back about the whole thing. Wearing masks indoors for sure, as that's definitely an infection vector, and a mask can lower the risk of spreading the virus by 1%-30%, depending on the mask and how it's used (though I'd guess N95 masks might have a higher % of effectiveness, but most people don't wear those). Keeping distance, avoiding social gatherings as much as possible. But otherwise not going full paranoid by constantly washing hands, or quarantining every piece of mail I get.

But yeah, I get that everyone handles and responds to things differently.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I sent them a message and email two weeks ago now. The entire state must be COVID infected. Ive been giving them breaks from day one before COVID was even reported. Id say not here yet but that would be a lie as I know for fact someone that was infected by it NOV 2019 That brought it back from a convention center. They said thats not possible yet the only time this person was sick as hell and tested positive for the antibodies. My Daughter also had it on a college Campus last January and they also said not possible yet she has the antibodies too. One shipment I will refuse is anything from China even if that sheet sat in a shipping container pressurized with the strongest disinfectant known to man. Thing is they still dont know jack about it, where it came from and where its going or how many times its mutated. From the beginning in the US there were two strains. One that came in on the west coast directly from China and another on the east coast that also came from China VIA Europe. Two a$$hats who work in the BIOMED industry brought it back from Italy then commenced to travel all over the northeast spreading the love. The first cases in NJ came from those butt fleas who attended a private party and it spread out from there and they made multiple stops back up to Boston spreading it more.


Unfortunate problem with modern culture, so much personal inter travel thats it’s impossible to find patient zero/control spread . Also so many diverse cultures out that eat exotic animals. 

Human Nature vs Whats best for survival of human race. If we were all logical lol, i probably think we would not have 99% of problems we have. 

It will be awhile before we find patient zero. We just don’t know enough (original source was never documented) that we are running theories based on incomplete information. There are lot of unknowns viruses in the world just fortunate are in remote locations in the first place.

The other issue is in retrospective an enforced full lockdown for 2-3 months and closed border, may have been better than what happened. However its really hard thing to do in western countries also. Lesson learned for the future. Maybe humans need to have an inhibitor chip installed into them in the future.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> Unfortunate problem with modern culture, so much personal inter travel thats it’s impossible to find patient zero. Also so many diverse cultures out that eat exotic animals. It will be awhile before we find patient zero. We just don’t know enough (original source was never documented) that we are running theories based on incomplete information.
> 
> The other issue is in retrospective an enforced full lockdown for 2-3 months and closed border, may have been better than what happened. However its really hard thing to do in western countries also. Lesson learned for the future.


Another problem is that large portions of population, particularly in the US were even denying there was a problem. Calling it fake news.

I'd bet if the US were ever invaded during a war, half the country would call it fake news.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Another problem is that large portions of population, particularly in the US were even denying there was a problem. Calling it fake news.
> 
> I'd bet if the US were ever invaded during a war, half the country would call it fake news.


Probably. Nothing we can do about it. Its part of human free will (believe/do whatever you want).


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> Probably. Nothing we can do about it. Its part of human free will (believe/do whatever you want).


It's worse than ever due to social media, though. People get placed in their own information bubbles, with their own views constantly reinforced, even if those views are factually incorrect. And that's really the problem. Facts have become optional, the only thing that seems to matter now is someone's opinion and how they feel about it. When really I think people should be told more often: you're wrong.

Really, social media is a cancer on society and I hope it dies completely.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> It's worse than ever due to social media, though. People get placed in their own information bubbles, with their own views constantly reinforced, even if those views are factually incorrect. And that's really the problem. Facts have become optional, the only thing that seems to matter now is someone's opinion and how they feel about it. When really I think people should be told more often: you're wrong.
> 
> Really, social media is a cancer on society and I hope it dies completely.


Your not only one lol.


----------



## straha20

sakete said:


> It's worse than ever due to social media, though. People get placed in their own information bubbles, with their own views constantly reinforced, even if those views are factually incorrect. And that's really the problem. Facts have become optional, the only thing that seems to matter now is someone's opinion and how they feel about it. When really I think people should be told more often: you're wrong.
> 
> Really, social media is a cancer on society and I hope it dies completely.


Post truth became an inevitability when the last barriers to communication fell with the invention of the internet. Mass communication controlled by the masses.

No longer is time, distance, and consequence a barrier or impediment to communication. Anyone can instantly say anything, at any time, to literally billions of people effectively consequence free.

Except perhaps Optimus...they can't seem to say anything to anyone


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> 12mm


Here is what I am going to try out. I got these 8mm led strip holders from amazon that I will silicone to the acrylic (4 or 5 should do it).






Amazon.com: 8/10/12mm Silicone Holder Clip for Fixing 3528 5050 1210 RGB LED Strip Light 100 pcs(8mm): Home Audio & Theater


Buy 8/10/12mm Silicone Holder Clip for Fixing 3528 5050 1210 RGB LED Strip Light 100 pcs(8mm): Cord Management - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com





Then I ordered some 7mm wide RGB 5v strip from ebay









5V width 4mm 5mm 7mm LED Pixel Strip WS2812B narrow width WS2812 3535 5050 RGB | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 5V width 4mm 5mm 7mm LED Pixel Strip WS2812B narrow width WS2812 3535 5050 RGB at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com





Hope it works


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> Here is what I am going to try out. I got these 8mm led strip holders from amazon that I will silicone to the acrylic (4 or 5 should do it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: 8/10/12mm Silicone Holder Clip for Fixing 3528 5050 1210 RGB LED Strip Light 100 pcs(8mm): Home Audio & Theater
> 
> 
> Buy 8/10/12mm Silicone Holder Clip for Fixing 3528 5050 1210 RGB LED Strip Light 100 pcs(8mm): Cord Management - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I ordered some 7mm wide RGB 5v strip from ebay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5V width 4mm 5mm 7mm LED Pixel Strip WS2812B narrow width WS2812 3535 5050 RGB | eBay
> 
> 
> Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 5V width 4mm 5mm 7mm LED Pixel Strip WS2812B narrow width WS2812 3535 5050 RGB at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it works


One other thing to consider is the clearance between the acrylic and motherboard. I have a Crosshair Hero VIII and with the motherboard armor, there is exactly zero room between my lights and adhesive strip. The card with the lights mounted sits directly on the MB armor. Any thicker, and it wouldn't fit.

If you don't have any of that armor on your board, you'll have a lot more room to play with presumably as those holders you linked would be too thick to fit in my setup.


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> One other thing to consider is the clearance between the acrylic and motherboard. I have a Crosshair Hero VIII and with the motherboard armor, there is exactly zero room between my lights and adhesive strip. The card with the lights mounted sits directly on the MB armor. Any thicker, and it wouldn't fit.
> 
> If you don't have any of that armor on your board, you'll have a lot more room to play with presumably as those holders you linked would be too thick to fit in my setup.


I definitely took the clearance into consideration. I am mounted vertically so I have a good 10mm of space between where the acrylic will be and the vertical mount.


----------



## sakete

straha20 said:


> Post truth became an inevitability when the last barriers to communication fell with the invention of the internet. Mass communication controlled by the masses.
> 
> No longer is time, distance, and consequence a barrier or impediment to communication. Anyone can instantly say anything, at any time, to literally billions of people effectively consequence free.


For real. I call it the village idiot theory. Before the internet, every community had their "village idiot", spewing out complete nonsense. And those idiots would be told they're wrong by everyone else in that community, which best case would lead that idiot to reconsider their viewpoints.

Now on the internet, they will have an audience of millions of other village idiots, agreeing with them. And then suddenly they think they're right.



> Except perhaps Optimus...they can't seem to say anything to anyone


LOL!


----------



## gengar

Shawnb99 said:


> Just got my 30 blemish fittings but no Allen key. The description promised Allen keys for every 6 fittings, I should of got 5 of them. Yet I got nothing and there’s no hope of contacting CS since they isn’t any so lucky I got fittings before otherwise I’d have to look for an Allen key.
> 
> Besides I can’t get a **ing response to save my life. Leave daily private messages and get ignored, send countless emails only to be ignored. If I had other options for my KPE block I’d take it cause at this point ** Optimus. Not a single person in that company responds to emails so **** them all.
> 
> Time to find a new company to support


So far we've come from 'grow up you #$*&!s and stop acting like a baby'.


----------



## Shawnb99

gengar said:


> So far we've come from 'grow up you #$*&!s and stop acting like a baby'.


No not really. Didn’t resort to calling Optimus names or saying they lied. Just upset over the lack of communication. If you can’t tell the difference then I can’t help you.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> I definitely took the clearance into consideration. I am mounted vertically so I have a good 10mm of space between where the acrylic will be and the vertical mount.


Good to know this.


----------



## anr11

Just got my shipping notification for an AMD Foundation block I ordered 28.January. Looks like this new system is working, at least for regular inventory product. At the time I ordered shipping time was given as 2 weeks.


----------



## RichKnecht

I just got my Intel Foundation block (blem) from them. I can't find the flaw, but does anyone know what size allen key is required to remove the acrylic top so that I can switch the input/output so that the nameplate remains right side up? Would have helped a great deal if they would have included the allen key.


----------



## straha20

I'd like to get my shipping notification on my blemish reservoirs I ordered. Certainly those were in stock at the time I ordered them. Hell, just a response to the emails I have sent them would be a great first step...


----------



## dwolvin

I feel I'm the odd person here, but I'd rather they didn't send any keys unless asked for. I have so many random allen wrenches laying around that are not part of a set that I have thrown plenty in the trash.


----------



## Phroz3

dwolvin said:


> I feel I'm the odd person here, but I'd rather they didn't send any keys unless asked for. I have so many random allen wrenches laying around that are not part of a set that I have thrown plenty in the trash.


I was thinking the same. I would rather use my allen key bits with my torque driver anyhow. Anyone know the torque specs for the GPU block?


----------



## RichKnecht

dwolvin said:


> I feel I'm the odd person here, but I'd rather they didn't send any keys unless asked for. I have so many random allen wrenches laying around that are not part of a set that I have thrown plenty in the trash.


I have a crap load of keys too, but they all seem to be metric. The Optimus key is standard, so I guess a trip to the Depot is in order. No doubt I will be coming home with more than an allen key/


----------



## Phroz3

RichKnecht said:


> I have a crap load of keys too, but they all seem to be metric. The Optimus key is standard, so I guess a trip to the Depot is in order. No doubt I will be coming home with more than an allen key/


I need to get a set of blinders for when I go to home depot or lowes.


----------



## dwolvin

Ha! I feel that...

And for torque, I've always done finger tight (gently - criss cross), and then + 1/4 turn... No leaks or stripped plastic yet


----------



## Phroz3

dwolvin said:


> Ha! I feel that...
> 
> And for torque, I've always done finger tight (gently - criss cross), and then + 1/4 turn... No leaks or stripped plastic yet


Thanks! I suppose the torque driver will be more handy when it comes to getting a good even mount when I get the CPU block.


----------



## Phroz3

Anyone with the AMD foundation block mount the cooler "goofy" (sideways) with the ports lining up horizontally rather than vertically? Wondering if they noticed any temp differences having it that way?


----------



## JustinThyme

sakete said:


> Another problem is that large portions of population, particularly in the US were even denying there was a problem. Calling it fake news.
> 
> I'd bet if the US were ever invaded during a war, half the country would call it fake news.


This is perpetuated by the unreal amount of fake news. IMO, social media crossed the line with fact checking and no longer falls under the protections of being “just a platform”. On the other end we have the mainstream media just throwing stuff out there with zero basis to back it up. Defamation is not part of the freedom of the press. They all have gone off their rockers. Personally I don’t watch the news anymore as it’s 2 mins of what they are reporting on then 28 mins of political commentary that doesn’t belong. I miss the good old days with Walter Cronkite “And that’s the way it was” reporting what happened with zero commentary leaving people to draw their own conclusions instead of following someone else’s narrative. 

So yeah it’s all fake news. Fauci changes his mind more often than people change their drawers to meet the current narrative. Numbers are definitely skewed. My daughter became a positive when she was tested by an idiot who didn’t follow protocol prior to collegiate sports. Sent her to a urgent care and guess what? Negative! She had just tested positive for antibodies as she had it when it WASN’T even a thing Jan 2020. It was already running amuck so they all missed it trusting The Chinese regime which was mistake #1. We need to stop with them completely. It’s no coincidence that our economy went into the toilet while Chinas boomed at an exact even pace. In the 80s the only thing you saw made in China was bubblegum machine trinkets. Now it’s difficult to find anything not made in China.


----------



## HyperMatrix

JustinThyme said:


> This is perpetuated by the unreal amount of fake news. IMO, social media crossed the line with fact checking and no longer falls under the protections of being “just a platform”. On the other end we have the mainstream media just throwing stuff out there with zero basis to back it up. Defamation is not part of the freedom of the press. They all have gone off their rockers. Personally I don’t watch the news anymore as it’s 2 mins of what they are reporting on then 28 mins of political commentary that doesn’t belong. I miss the good old days with Walter Cronkite “And that’s the way it was” reporting what happened with zero commentary leaving people to draw their own conclusions instead of following someone else’s narrative.
> 
> So yeah it’s all fake news. Fauci changes his mind more often than people change their drawers to meet the current narrative. Numbers are definitely skewed. My daughter became a positive when she was tested by an idiot who didn’t follow protocol prior to collegiate sports. Sent her to a urgent care and guess what? Negative! She had just tested positive for antibodies as she had it when it WASN’T even a thing Jan 2020. It was already running amuck so they all missed it trusting The Chinese regime which was mistake #1. We need to stop with them completely. It’s no coincidence that our economy went into the toilet while Chinas boomed at an exact even pace. In the 80s the only thing you saw made in China was bubblegum machine trinkets. Now it’s difficult to find anything not made in China.


Not to get into the politics of all of this as it always gets messy with people thinking only their view is the right view and etc etc....but I appreciated the "soft ball" questioning of respectful interviewers like Larry King. He'd ask the important questions, and then let his guest speak. If they dodged answering the question, the viewers could see and make up their own mind about that person. Nowadays MSM has gotten to the point of bashing people with self righteousness and insulting anyone who disagrees with them, including potentially viewers. It's literally just a propaganda machine. Tell people what to think, and tell them what views and opinions make them horrible people that shouldn't be allowed to have jobs. This isn't always one-sided either. 

As you mentioned...news is no longer news. It's become the op-ed section of the paper. And in today's world....everybody thinks their opinion matters.


----------



## sakete

JustinThyme said:


> This is perpetuated by the unreal amount of fake news. IMO, social media crossed the line with fact checking and no longer falls under the protections of being “just a platform”. On the other end we have the mainstream media just throwing stuff out there with zero basis to back it up. Defamation is not part of the freedom of the press. They all have gone off their rockers. Personally I don’t watch the news anymore as it’s 2 mins of what they are reporting on then 28 mins of political commentary that doesn’t belong. I miss the good old days with Walter Cronkite “And that’s the way it was” reporting what happened with zero commentary leaving people to draw their own conclusions instead of following someone else’s narrative.
> 
> So yeah it’s all fake news. Fauci changes his mind more often than people change their drawers to meet the current narrative. Numbers are definitely skewed. My daughter became a positive when she was tested by an idiot who didn’t follow protocol prior to collegiate sports. Sent her to a urgent care and guess what? Negative! She had just tested positive for antibodies as she had it when it WASN’T even a thing Jan 2020. It was already running amuck so they all missed it trusting The Chinese regime which was mistake #1. We need to stop with them completely. It’s no coincidence that our economy went into the toilet while Chinas boomed at an exact even pace. In the 80s the only thing you saw made in China was bubblegum machine trinkets. Now it’s difficult to find anything not made in China.


Right. Without going too far off-topic into the realm of politics, how did main stream media become so terrible? When the Fairness Doctrine was repealed in the 80s by Reagan. Now they can spew out whatever nonsense they want (and they all do this, regardless of their political slant, e.g. FOX, BBC, CNN, MSNBC, ABC, NBC, CBS, etc.) without consequence. Now too often opinion is disguised as "news". I also never watch the news these days, haven't watched it in over 10 years. I'll just read about it as it's at least a lot less dramatic and sensational that way.

As for China, what enabled their rise? Western corporations, i.e. western capitalism. China offered cheap manufacturing and all the mega corporations jumped on it so they could lower their expenses, and thus increase their profit margins. Result: wealth for the owner class went up astronomically, while the rest of society was left holding the bag (real income levels, i.e. adjusted for inflation, haven't gone up in decades). You can't simply point your finger at just China and blame them. It's much more complicated than that. We should really point our fingers at all the multi-national corporations that can't really be held accountable in any country as they have too much power.


----------



## anr11

Phroz3 said:


> Anyone with the AMD foundation block mount the cooler "goofy" (sideways) with the ports lining up horizontally rather than vertically? Wondering if they noticed any temp differences having it that way?


I'm curious about this too as goofy would be aesthetically preferable in my build. Some quick googling showed:
1. In the product info on the Optimus homepage it states that you can mount it goofy and still get excellent results.
2. Some dude claimed on a Reddit post from last year that he got great results with a goofy mount on a 3700X but his 3900X did not like it at all when OC'd. An Optimus rep chimed in there and suggested he try standard mount.


----------



## Section31

gengar said:


> So far we've come from 'grow up you #$*&!s and stop acting like a baby'.





Phroz3 said:


> Anyone with the AMD foundation block mount the cooler "goofy" (sideways) with the ports lining up horizontally rather than vertically? Wondering if they noticed any temp differences having it that way?


I have tried before. It rose up a lot and went back to standard


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Right. Without going too far off-topic into the realm of politics, how did main stream media become so terrible? When the Fairness Doctrine was repealed in the 80s by Reagan. Now they can spew out whatever nonsense they want (and they all do this, regardless of their political slant, e.g. FOX, BBC, CNN, MSNBC, ABC, NBC, CBS, etc.) without consequence. Now too often opinion is disguised as "news". I also never watch the news these days, haven't watched it in over 10 years. I'll just read about it as it's at least a lot less dramatic and sensational that way.
> 
> As for China, what enabled their rise? Western corporations, i.e. western capitalism. China offered cheap manufacturing and all the mega corporations jumped on it so they could lower their expenses, and thus increase their profit margins. Result: wealth for the owner class went up astronomically, while the rest of society was left holding the bag (real income levels, i.e. adjusted for inflation, haven't gone up in decades). You can't simply point your finger at just China and blame them. It's much more complicated than that. We should really point our fingers at all the multi-national corporations that can't really be held accountable in any country as they have too much power.


I am not familiar with American internal mechanism but there are lot of flaws within western capitalism atm. This is generalization but I notice too many Americans online tend to judge other countries/societies based on what goes in America is same with rest of the world. It's not always the case as each country/society functions differently though we all share common things. Very difficult to be level headed and think before you go saying your own opinions.


----------



## Phroz3

anr11 said:


> I'm curious about this too as goofy would be aesthetically preferable in my build. Some quick googling showed:
> 1. In the product info on the Optimus homepage it states that you can mount it goofy and still get excellent results.
> 2. Some dude claimed on a Reddit post from last year that he got great results with a goofy mount on a 3700X but his 3900X did not like it at all when OC'd. An Optimus rep chimed in there and suggested he try standard mount.


Looks like it is not the greatest for temps according to the other replies. Makes sense that the 3700x would fare better than the 3900x due to the 3700x having a single core complex and the 3900x having two. It would be aesthetically preferable in my build as well. I would literally need to re bend all my runs to make it work. Not happening lol. I will stick with the EK block for now. It is actually doing really well.


----------



## dwolvin

I thought the pair of packages were vertical (mounted standard ATX), are they toward the top or bottom?


----------



## Phroz3

dwolvin said:


> I thought the pair of packages were vertical (mounted standard ATX), are they toward the top or bottom?


Cores on top and interconnect/mem controller on the bottom I believe.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> Looks like it is not the greatest for temps according to the other replies. Makes sense that the 3700x would fare better than the 3900x due to the 3700x having a single core complex and the 3900x having two. It would be aesthetically preferable in my build as well. I would literally need to re bend all my runs to make it work. Not happening lol. I will stick with the EK block for now. It is actually doing really well.


If you do it remember to rotate the coldplate too. I didn't rotate the cold plate and temps for 3900x were awful.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

After I emailed Optimus again about the fittings not screwing into the block, I finally got a reply from Josh. He replied that the blocks are made very precisely, so its possible I need to use the 8mm allen key (which didn't come with my order). I replied that I used an 8mm socket and the fittings hard-stopped after less than a quarter turn. I told him I could force them to screw on, but there will be galling, shavings will get into the micro fins, and it will be impossible to remove the fittings once forced on. I asked for all replacement parts.

I have a feeling this will be a struggle. At least when EK parts are defective, they send free replacements without hassle. Is it too soon to say Optimus has gone downhill?


----------



## anr11

Section31 said:


> If you do it remember to rotate the coldplate too. I didn't rotate the cold plate and temps for 3900x were awful.


Did you try again with the cold plate rotated before switching back to standard in that previous attempt you mentioned? Maybe that's the reason for the poor performance in this orientation in both your and the other case I mentioned previously.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> If you do it remember to rotate the coldplate too. I didn't rotate the cold plate and temps for 3900x were awful.


How were they temps after you rotated the cold plate if you did rotate it?


----------



## Section31

anr11 said:


> Did you try again with the cold plate rotated before switching back to standard in that previous attempt you mentioned? Maybe that's the reason for the poor performance in this orientation in both your and the other case I mentioned previously.


I ended up getting working somehow (it also killed one an 3900x in the testing process) so i gave up on that idea. Also pointless now since i moved back to my caselabs and normal rotation works best.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> How were they temps after you rotated the cold plate if you did rotate it?


I imagine would perform the same/close to normal since the cold plate properly aligns with the inlet/oulet. If you don't rotate the coldplate, the microfins don't come in contact with the hotter part of the core.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> I imagine would perform the same/close to normal since the cold plate properly aligns with the inlet/oulet. If you don't rotate the coldplate, the microfins don't come in contact with the hotter part of the core.


It looks like, depending on water pressure, that you may get slightly less flow on whichever chiplet is on top in the goofy position due to gravity. I ran my EK goofy for quite some time but I did remember to rotate the cold plate and jet plate to match.


----------



## JustinThyme

sakete said:


> Right. Without going too far off-topic into the realm of politics, how did main stream media become so terrible? When the Fairness Doctrine was repealed in the 80s by Reagan. Now they can spew out whatever nonsense they want (and they all do this, regardless of their political slant, e.g. FOX, BBC, CNN, MSNBC, ABC, NBC, CBS, etc.) without consequence. Now too often opinion is disguised as "news". I also never watch the news these days, haven't watched it in over 10 years. I'll just read about it as it's at least a lot less dramatic and sensational that way.
> 
> As for China, what enabled their rise? Western corporations, i.e. western capitalism. China offered cheap manufacturing and all the mega corporations jumped on it so they could lower their expenses, and thus increase their profit margins. Result: wealth for the owner class went up astronomically, while the rest of society was left holding the bag (real income levels, i.e. adjusted for inflation, haven't gone up in decades). You can't simply point your finger at just China and blame them. It's much more complicated than that. We should really point our fingers at all the multi-national corporations that can't really be held accountable in any country as they have too much power.


I agree that greed and outsourcing for the bottom line started the Chinese growth. They have failed in trade agreements and openly steal IP. Pretty much ever luxury car made you can but a Chinese version that the only difference are the emblems. A Mercedes S600 had a Chinese counterpart where Mercedes got ahold of one and every part is verbatim though IP theft. You can literally take a door off the China Version and bolt it right onto the German made car. They are also infamous for ghost shifts where they run two shifts using equipment and raw materials provided by the company doing the outsourcing then a 3rd non existent shift where they use the same machinery and raw materials to sell themselves. Yeah it gets deep but the beginning was driven by the American consumer and Walmart rollbacks.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I agree that greed and outsourcing for the bottom line started the Chinese growth. They have failed in trade agreements and openly steal IP. Pretty much ever luxury car made you can but a Chinese version that the only difference are the emblems. A Mercedes S600 had a Chinese counterpart where Mercedes got ahold of one and every part is verbatim though IP theft. You can literally take a door off the China Version and bolt it right onto the German made car. They are also infamous for ghost shifts where they run two shifts using equipment and raw materials provided by the company doing the outsourcing then a 3rd non existent shift where they use the same machinery and raw materials to sell themselves. Yeah it gets deep but the beginning was driven by the American consumer and Walmart rollbacks.


You do know your Tesla may be actually from there Shanghai Plant. That's how Tesla is dropping there prices globally all of sudden


----------



## jincuteguy

Anyone knows Optimus Reservoir system, the 12" and 8.5". Is 12" the actual length of the Reservoir? Or including the base as well?


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> You do know your Tesla may be actually from there Shanghai Plant. That's how Tesla is dropping there prices globally all of sudden



Don’t do electric. All a farce as it’s mostly carbon producing power plants that charge them. Have a coworker with a Tesla and we live not far from each other. We both had to be in RI and left at the same time and I beat him by an hour because I didn’t half to search out a high current charging station and stop for half an hour to recharge and end up caught up in traffic. 

My next door neighbor has one of the high end models and called me to bring my portable generator to get him enough juice to get home. On a slow charge I left it with him in a parking lot. Took him 4 hours on a 120V charge to get it up enough to make it 10 miles home. 

I drive a company provided Ford Escape that half the parts were made in Mexico, the other half in the US and assembled in Kentucky. My preferred ride is a Harley Davidson Fatboy that is 100% made in the US. V-Twin engine made In Milwaukee Wisconsin, saddle bags and fairing made in Tomahawk Wisconsin and the rest it St Louis Missouri. HD does intend on opening a facility in Thailand for exports into China only to avoid their 25% tariff on anything imported from the US but only includes the babies, 250cc-400CC which there isn’t a market for in the US anyhow. Sportster 883 is as small as it gets and is popular among the lady riders. I ride with 1770CC between my legs.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Don’t do electric. All a farce as it’s mostly carbon producing power plants that charge them. Have a coworker with a Tesla and we live not far from each other. We both had to be in RI and left at the same time and I beat him by an hour because I didn’t half to search out a high current charging station and stop for half an hour to recharge and end up caught up in traffic.
> 
> I drive a company provided Ford Escape that half the parts were made in Mexico, the other half in the US and assembled in Kentucky. My preferred ride is a Harley Davidson Fatboy that is 100% made in the US. V-Twin engine made In Milwaukee Wisconsin, saddle bags and fairing made in Tomahawk Wisconsin and the rest it St Louis Missouri. HD does intend on opening a facility in Thailand for exports into China only to avoid their 25% tariff on anything imported from the US but only includes the babies, 250cc-400CC which there isn’t a market for in the US anyhow. Sportster 883 is as small as it gets and is popular among the lady riders. I ride with 1770CC between my legs.


Harleys made nice touring motor bikes. They’ve been pretty hard hit over the last couple years.

I’m not in American made cars myself but even i order the first batch of new european car models releases, the first batch are generally made in the european factories. My experiences with the us factory made ones historically are they aren’t as reliable.


----------



## JustinThyme

Last European model I owned was a Big Money Waste....aka BMW M two door coupe. For what I paid for that SOB it was made In Germany and had to have all the service done at BMW dealership or it voided the warranty. It spent more time going down the highway on the back of a roll back than me driving it. The to an Audi S500. That was a little better, still spent too much time in the shop but then the motor for the passenger side electric window crapped and they charged me $2800 for it I fixed it and sold it. What he have in the driveway other than the company vehicle is a 2010 Jeep with 200K miles on it, never a problem (wife drives the wheel off of that one) Dodge Ram 1500 with 167K no problems ever (Son drives that one) and my daughter has a 2010 Ford Edge that I had to replace the right front wheel bearings in. Best one for me is the company car. They foot the bill on everything including gas and I just drive the crap out of it and get a new one every 3 years or 60K miles which ever comes first. Just put in the order for a 2022 as my current one is a 2018 with 45K miles. Chaps the wife’s ass that I get a new car every 3 years. I told her she can have a new one if she wants the bill. You have a reliable vehicle that’s in excellent condition. Why screw up a good thing. She picked it out when we bought it new now she wants a Mini Cooper. I kind of like the idea of not having payments on anything but the mortgage which is almost paid off. Then we will move up out of this snobby overpriced NYC suburb and go from $800K to half that or less and I’m hanging up my hat and throwing out my work boots. Been at that grind for 45 years at this point. Ready to do what I want, when I want, and get out of bed when I’m damn good and ready. Sometime before summer kicks into full swing packing up and riding my HD down the blue ridge parkway end to end for about a month and still have 3 weeks PTO left. Wife won’t get on it. She’s scared sheetless of bikes.


----------



## straha20

jincuteguy said:


> Anyone knows Optimus Reservoir system, the 12" and 8.5". Is 12" the actual length of the Reservoir? Or including the base as well?


It is total height, including the base.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Last European model I owned was a Big Money Waste....aka BMW M two door coupe. For what I paid for that SOB it was made In Germany and had to have all the service done at BMW dealership or it voided the warranty. It spent more time going down the highway on the back of a roll back than me driving it. The to an Audi S500. That was a little better, still spent too much time in the shop but then the motor for the passenger side electric window crapped and they charged me $2800 for it I fixed it and sold it. What he have in the driveway other than the company vehicle is a 2010 Jeep with 200K miles on it, never a problem (wife drives the wheel off of that one) Dodge Ram 1500 with 167K no problems ever (Son drives that one) and my daughter has a 2010 Ford Edge that I had to replace the right front wheel bearings in. Best one for me is the company car. They foot the bill on everything including gas and I just drive the crap out of it and get a new one every 3 years or 60K miles which ever comes first. Just put in the order for a 2022 as my current one is a 2018 with 45K miles. Chaps the wife’s ass that I get a new car every 3 years. I told her she can have a new one if she wants the bill. You have a reliable vehicle that’s in excellent condition. Why screw up a good thing. She picked it out when we bought it new now she wants a Mini Cooper. I kind of like the idea of not having payments on anything but the mortgage which is almost paid off. Then we will move up out of this snobby overpriced NYC suburb and go from $800K to half that or less and I’m hanging up my hat and throwing out my work boots. Been at that grind for 45 years at this point. Ready to do what I want, when I want, and get out of bed when I’m damn good and ready. Sometime before summer kicks into full swing packing up and riding my HD down the blue ridge parkway end to end for about a month and still have 3 weeks PTO left. Wife won’t get on it. She’s scared sheetless of bikes.


Grand plan you have


----------



## jincuteguy

straha20 said:


> It is total height, including the base.


Do you have one or something?


----------



## straha20

jincuteguy said:


> Do you have one or something?


Answered in this post here...









Optimus Waterblock


ive seen an even spread i dont think ones failing more often than the other. I think it’s because evga has produced more cards than asus has. Strix has been relatively difficult card to get ahold off




www.overclock.net


----------



## sakete

JustinThyme said:


> Last European model I owned was a Big Money Waste....aka BMW M two door coupe. For what I paid for that SOB it was made In Germany and had to have all the service done at BMW dealership or it voided the warranty. It spent more time going down the highway on the back of a roll back than me driving it. The to an Audi S500. That was a little better, still spent too much time in the shop but then the motor for the passenger side electric window crapped and they charged me $2800 for it I fixed it and sold it. What he have in the driveway other than the company vehicle is a 2010 Jeep with 200K miles on it, never a problem (wife drives the wheel off of that one) Dodge Ram 1500 with 167K no problems ever (Son drives that one) and my daughter has a 2010 Ford Edge that I had to replace the right front wheel bearings in. Best one for me is the company car. They foot the bill on everything including gas and I just drive the crap out of it and get a new one every 3 years or 60K miles which ever comes first. Just put in the order for a 2022 as my current one is a 2018 with 45K miles. Chaps the wife’s ass that I get a new car every 3 years. I told her she can have a new one if she wants the bill. You have a reliable vehicle that’s in excellent condition. Why screw up a good thing. She picked it out when we bought it new now she wants a Mini Cooper. I kind of like the idea of not having payments on anything but the mortgage which is almost paid off. Then we will move up out of this snobby overpriced NYC suburb and go from $800K to half that or less and I’m hanging up my hat and throwing out my work boots. Been at that grind for 45 years at this point. Ready to do what I want, when I want, and get out of bed when I’m damn good and ready. Sometime before summer kicks into full swing packing up and riding my HD down the blue ridge parkway end to end for about a month and still have 3 weeks PTO left. Wife won’t get on it. She’s scared sheetless of bikes.


I typically buy Japanese cars, and own them for about 10 years. Reliable and trouble free. German cars, especially luxury ones, are just a money pit.

Current set of cars going 7 years strong. I used to rack up the miles, but then I moved closer to work so now, and especially with the pandemic, it's just aging without much mileage being added.


----------



## Biggu

sakete said:


> I typically buy Japanese cars, and own them for about 10 years. Reliable and trouble free. German cars, especially luxury ones, are just a money pit.
> 
> Current set of cars going 7 years strong. I used to rack up the miles, but then I moved closer to work so now, and especially with the pandemic, it's just aging without much mileage being added.


Truthfully it depends on where the German car was manufactured. If it was manufactured in Mexico then yes your sentiment is correct however if it was made in Germany then its just as good as the Japanese cars from what Ive experienced.


----------



## sakete

Biggu said:


> Truthfully it depends on where the German car was manufactured. If it was manufactured in Mexico then yes your sentiment is correct however if it was made in Germany then its just as good as the Japanese cars from what Ive experienced.


Well, between the German luxury brands, it seems like Audi is the most reliable, followed by BMW, with Mercedes last.

I once had a mechanic tell me that German luxury cars are beautiful precision engineered machines for the first 50k or so miles. After that, sell it and buy a new one.

As much as I think German luxury is nice, they're so expensive to maintain that it's just not worth it to me, or unless my income level at least doubled from current levels. Asian brands are much more affordable to maintain. 

Going by statistics, at least according to Consumer Reports, Japanese and Korean brands are the most reliable by far.


----------



## Darb

sakete said:


> Well, between the German luxury brands, it seems like Audi is the most reliable, followed by BMW, with Mercedes last.
> 
> I once had a mechanic tell me that German luxury cars are beautiful precision engineered machines for the first 50k or so miles. After that, sell it and buy a new one.
> 
> As much as I think German luxury is nice, they're so expensive to maintain that it's just not worth it to me, or unless my income level at least doubled from current levels. Asian brands are much more affordable to maintain.
> 
> Going by statistics, at least according to Consumer Reports, Japanese and Korean brands are the most reliable by far.


Is this a car forum? Just asking......


----------



## Section31

Darb said:


> Is this a car forum? Just asking......


Since optimus is generally awol, this is more of an general chat forum. Hence why its the most active thread here.


----------



## Shawnb99

Darb said:


> Is this a car forum? Just asking......


We can only ***** about Optimus ignoring us for so long before we talk about something else.


----------



## straha20

Well, got a reply to one of my emails where I asked about the reservoir bolt length. Asked if they could accommodate a 3mm spacer between the acrylic top and metal base. Unfortunately didn't get a specific answer, just a reminder that putting a spacer in there will cause the pump to leak. I replied indicating that I intend to use this as a reservoir only, without the pump, so need to know the bolt lengths. Hopefully I get an answer to how long the bolts are.


----------



## Sir Beregond

sakete said:


> I typically buy Japanese cars, and own them for about 10 years. Reliable and trouble free. German cars, especially luxury ones, are just a money pit.
> 
> Current set of cars going 7 years strong. I used to rack up the miles, but then I moved closer to work so now, and especially with the pandemic, it's just aging without much mileage being added.


7 years and 100k miles into my Mazda right now and thing has been absolutely reliable and mostly trouble free. The couple of issues I've had with it were low cost and easy to fix myself and more just "early model" issues.


----------



## straha20

Sir Beregond said:


> 7 years and 100k miles into my Mazda right now and thing has been absolutely reliable and mostly trouble free. The couple of issues I've had with it were low cost and easy to fix myself and more just "early model" issues.


Put over 500k on a Toyota Echo over 10 years, with the only thing was having to have the manual transmission rebuilt once. Currently have a Toyota Yaris with 200k on it, and no major repairs or issues at all.


----------



## Shawnb99

Every time I see someone has gotten an email response while I get nothing just pisses me off even more.
why are you ignoring me @Optimus WC? Only been ignored for 2 weeks now


----------



## Sir Beregond

straha20 said:


> Put over 500k on a Toyota Echo over 10 years, with the only thing was having to have the manual transmission rebuilt once. Currently have a Toyota Yaris with 200k on it, and no major repairs or issues at all.


Very nice! My last car was a Jeep and I got it to 292k miles but definitely not trouble free. Thing was a money pit during those last 50k.

With my Mazda as far as I am concerned it is not even half-way through its lifespan yet. I've seen many 250k+ trouble free Mazdas (post Ford era) posted around. I do most of my own maintenance including stuff that they don't bother to put in the manual anymore like transmission fluid. I don't believe in buying/leasing cars every 3 years. Haven't had a car payment in over 3 years now.


----------



## sakete

Sir Beregond said:


> Very nice! My last car was a Jeep and I got it to 292k miles but definitely not trouble free. Thing was a money pit during those last 50k.
> 
> With my Mazda as far as I am concerned it is not even half-way through its lifespan yet. I've seen many 250k+ trouble free Mazdas (post Ford era) posted around. I do most of my own maintenance including stuff that they don't bother to put in the manual anymore like transmission fluid. I don't believe in buying/leasing cars every 3 years. Haven't had a car payment in over 3 years now.


Yeah, we currently have a Toyota and Subaru. For next car I'll definitely consider Mazda, particularly as they also tend to be a bit more driver focused and fun to drive. And these days Mazda is almost like buying a luxury car without paying the price. 

Around when we're ready to replace the Toyota might be when a new CX-9 comes out. That could be a nice car (yeah it's huge but I have a family).


----------



## Phroz3

Sir Beregond said:


> 7 years and 100k miles into my Mazda right now and thing has been absolutely reliable and mostly trouble free. The couple of issues I've had with it were low cost and easy to fix myself and more just "early model" issues.


287 thousand miles on my 07 subaru forester. Still going strong.


----------



## Sir Beregond

sakete said:


> Yeah, we currently have a Toyota and Subaru. For next car I'll definitely consider Mazda, particularly as they also tend to be a bit more driver focused and fun to drive. And these days Mazda is almost like buying a luxury car without paying the price.
> 
> Around when we're ready to replace the Toyota might be when a new CX-9 comes out. That could be a nice car (yeah it's huge but I have a family).


I have a 2014 CX-5 so it's before they pushed the luxury angle starting around 2017, but the driver focus and engaged driving is what sold me on it for sure and I just absolutely enjoy driving it every time I get in.

I have driven a 2019 and 2020 CX-5 and they have certainly improved the interior...not just in materials, but the cabin noise as well. That said coming from soft top Jeeps growing up, my 2014 doesn't bother me at all. 😀



Phroz3 said:


> 287 thousand miles on my 07 subaru forester. Still going strong.


Very nice. Yeah those older Subarus did great. Not so sure about the newer ones with those CVTs though.


----------



## sakete

Sir Beregond said:


> I have a 2014 CX-5 so it's before they pushed the luxury angle starting around 2017, but the driver focus and engaged driving is what sold me on it for sure and I just absolutely enjoy driving it every time I get in.
> 
> I have driven a 2019 and 2020 CX-5 and they have certainly improved the interior...not just in materials, but the cabin noise as well. That said coming from soft top Jeeps growing up, my 2014 doesn't bother me at all.
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice. Yeah those older Subarus did great. Not so sure about the newer ones with those CVTs though.


So far in our 2015 Subaru Legacy, with about 65k miles on it, no major issues and CVT seems to be working fine. I overall prefer a more traditional transmission though, with actual gears.

We actually test drove a 2014 CX-5, but I found it a bit too small, particularly the back seats. Ended up with a 2014 Rav4 instead. Not the best handeling ride, but it's fine. Been very reliable so far. Just a bit boring as a car.


----------



## Sir Beregond

sakete said:


> So far in our 2015 Subaru Legacy, with about 65k miles on it, no major issues and CVT seems to be working fine. I overall prefer a more traditional transmission though, with actual gears.
> 
> We actually test drove a 2014 CX-5, but I found it a bit too small, particularly the back seats. Ended up with a 2014 Rav4 instead. Not the best handeling ride, but it's fine. Been very reliable so far. Just a bit boring as a car.


Makes sense. All depends on your use. I have had a grant total of maybe 3 people sit in my backseat since I bought the car in April of 2013. I do however put the seats down to haul stuff fairly regularly (one of the reasons I wanted a CUV instead of a car).


----------



## Optimus WC

hey guys, I can answer questions, if we can keep it on topic. Whenever I check in here, it's some off topic thing and I don't want to comb through tons of posts to see if there was anything legit. It's been a crazy few weeks over at the block factory, but we've hired more people and added new equipment so things should be a little smoother going forward. And I'll be around to answer questions.


----------



## tbrown7552

Optimus WC said:


> hey guys, I can answer questions, if we can keep it on topic. Whenever I check in here, it's some off topic thing and I don't want to comb through tons of posts to see if there was anything legit. It's been a crazy few weeks over at the block factory, but we've hired more people and added new equipment so things should be a little smoother going forward. And I'll be around to answer questions.


Whats the plan/status for Kingpin?


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> hey guys, I can answer questions, if we can keep it on topic. Whenever I check in here, it's some off topic thing and I don't want to comb through tons of posts to see if there was anything legit. It's been a crazy few weeks over at the block factory, but we've hired more people and added new equipment so things should be a little smoother going forward. And I'll be around to answer questions.


Are more 1/2" Satin Silver Hardline fittings coming any time soon? I have bought all the ones I could find, and am still 18-24 short.


----------



## Optimus WC

KPE - yes, we'll have more updates in a week or two, as soon as we're comfortable with the new equipment and have time to peel away from that to work on the KPE design. Strix design is done but not tested, KPE is roughed out, but not designed. It won't be a hard design (unlike the original FTW or the Strix, which is a PITA), but we want to make sure we have all the performance we can get out of it.

FITTINGS - yes, we just got more made, we'll prob have them avail to sell today or, more likely, tomorrow.


----------



## Phroz3

Optimus WC said:


> hey guys, I can answer questions, if we can keep it on topic. Whenever I check in here, it's some off topic thing and I don't want to comb through tons of posts to see if there was anything legit. It's been a crazy few weeks over at the block factory, but we've hired more people and added new equipment so things should be a little smoother going forward. And I'll be around to answer questions.


I am sure others are curious about Friday batches of the FTW3 block. It didn't happen last week. How about this week? I got mine in on the 29th but I saw a lot of fury on twitter about last week lol. Also, do you think the 3 weeks is an accurate timeframe for the 29th batch? Looks like batch 2 is close to being done?


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> KPE - yes, we'll have more updates in a week or two, as soon as we're comfortable with the new equipment and have time to peel away from that to work on the KPE design. Strix design is done but not tested, KPE is roughed out, but not designed. It won't be a hard design (unlike the original FTW or the Strix, which is a PITA), but we want to make sure we have all the performance we can get out of it.
> 
> FITTINGS - yes, we just got more made, we'll prob have them avail to sell today or, more likely, tomorrow.


Thank you for the update. Hopefully your product launches are more stable. Great opportunity with all the other brands suffering from delays too.


----------



## Optimus WC

Phroz3 said:


> I am sure others are curious about Friday batches of the FTW3 block. It didn't happen last week. How about this week? I got mine in on the 29th but I saw a lot of fury on twitter about last week lol. Also, do you think the 3 weeks is an accurate timeframe for the 29th batch? Looks like batch 2 is close to being done?


We held off last week and didn't get a chance to update twitter, we were all neck deep in blocks and upgrades, we didn't want to overcommit to another batch yet. We'll do another batch tomorrow, we're good to go for production and production is still moving forward at a regular clip, making blocks non stop now. A few suppliers still cause us problems, but what can ya do.



Section31 said:


> Thank you for the update. Hopefully your product launches are more stable. Great opportunity with all the other brands suffering from delays too.


Definitely! We're doing a lot behind the scenes -- better to get the fixes in than make more commitments. And, yeah, crazy time for everyone. Copper prices went through the roof, but we're just absorbing that additional cost, hoping prices will come down. And we're doing things to make lots and lots more blocks, we're super happy with the performance of the GPU, though it's a beast to make, but worth it


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Definitely! We're doing a lot behind the scenes -- better to get the fixes in than make more commitments. And, yeah, crazy time for everyone. Copper prices went through the roof, but we're just absorbing that additional cost, hoping prices will come down. And we're doing things to make lots and lots more blocks, we're super happy with the performance of the GPU, though it's a beast to make, but worth it


Just buy some copper futures to hedge prices. And then short those same futures when prices come back down. Easy!

(j/k, don't speculate in the futures market if you don't know what you're doing).


----------



## whaleboy_4096

Optimus WC said:


> hey guys, I can answer questions, if we can keep it on topic. Whenever I check in here, it's some off topic thing and I don't want to comb through tons of posts to see if there was anything legit. It's been a crazy few weeks over at the block factory, but we've hired more people and added new equipment so things should be a little smoother going forward. And I'll be around to answer questions.


Hello, I have been silently awaiting my FTW block (batch 2), and finally recieved a shipping notification Friday, however, the notice just said the label was created, and as of today (according to the usps tracking and your site), it hasn't actually shipped yet. When can I expect it to actually go out the door? 
Thanks


----------



## Optimus WC

whaleboy_4096 said:


> Hello, I have been silently awaiting my FTW block (batch 2), and finally recieved a shipping notification Friday, however, the notice just said the label was created, and as of today (according to the usps tracking and your site), it hasn't actually shipped yet. When can I expect it to actually go out the door?
> Thanks


It may have gone out today, USPS is a little late with the times they update deliveries. If not, then definitely tomorrow.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> It may have gone out today, USPS is a little late with the times they update deliveries. If not, then definitely tomorrow.


Try to keep us more informed. It will help a lot in reducing the lack of communication posts that gets posted here often.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Try to keep us more informed. It will help a lot reduce the lack of communication posts that gets posted here often.


Exactly. We want nothing but good things to happen to this company. They make excellent products. Communication is key though. People are just wired that way. We want to know why when things aren't going the way that we expected. We know it hurts timelines to have to do it but it is necessary.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Optimus WC said:


> KPE - yes, we'll have more updates in a week or two, as soon as we're comfortable with the new equipment and have time to peel away from that to work on the KPE design. Strix design is done but not tested, KPE is roughed out, but not designed. It won't be a hard design (unlike the original FTW or the Strix, which is a PITA), but we want to make sure we have all the performance we can get out of it.


Good stuff you guys!

Kingpin was just ordered today as well. Excited to see what you guys come up with.


----------



## onMute

LiquidHaus said:


> Good stuff you guys!
> 
> Kingpin was just ordered today as well. Excited to see what you guys come up with.


Patiently waiting for KPE block as well...


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Good stuff you guys!
> 
> Kingpin was just ordered today as well. Excited to see what you guys come up with.


Curious are you going to get your hands on early samples of heatkiller new internal radiators by chance. There are some builds in contests already using them. Bunch of us really curious in its performance numbers.


----------



## criskoe

Optimus WC said:


> KPE - yes, we'll have more updates in a week or two, as soon as we're comfortable with the new equipment and have time to peel away from that to work on the KPE design. Strix design is done but not tested, KPE is roughed out, but not designed. It won't be a hard design (unlike the original FTW or the Strix, which is a PITA), but we want to make sure we have all the performance we can get out of it.
> 
> FITTINGS - yes, we just got more made, we'll prob have them avail to sell today or, more likely, tomorrow.


What about the Evga XC3? It was planned back at launch but haven’t heard one mention about it since. Is this one even coming anymore?

after the FTW it would be the next most common card people actually have.


----------



## Optimus WC

criskoe said:


> What about the Evga XC3? It was planned back at launch but haven’t heard one mention about it since. Is this one even coming anymore?
> 
> after the FTW it would be the next most common card people actually have.


Yes, we have that mostly designed as well, we'll make it a mostly ref style card, rather than exclusive to XC3. We need to do a little more internally and then we'll be tackling the rest of the popular blocks -- XC3, Strix, KP, Founders.


----------



## arvinz

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, we have that mostly designed as well, we'll make it a mostly ref style card, rather than exclusive to XC3. We need to do a little more internally and then we'll be tackling the rest of the popular blocks -- XC3, Strix, KP, Founders.


Amazing! Appreciate the update...would you be doing a pre-ordering system for the any upcoming blocks like the Strix? How do you normally update folks when something is about to drop?


----------



## Optimus WC

arvinz said:


> Amazing! Appreciate the update...would you be doing a pre-ordering system for the any upcoming blocks like the Strix? How do you normally update folks when something is about to drop?


Chances are we'll be a lot more careful about preorders next time  we want to make sure it's in production and ready to go before we open up sales. The good news is we have much of the material already on hand for the next designs, so as long as there aren't weird issues with the final testing, we'll be good to go. The FTW is a good benchmark, since it really shows the performance potential of the GPUs. So we'll adapt our tech to the rest of the GPUs, the Strix is the hardest and that is done in the general design phase.


----------



## JustinThyme

Longest lasting vehicle Ive ever had and it was still running just fine when I sold it was a Ford F250 with a 300 inline 6 that had 540K miles on it. Never did anything but change the oil, spark plugs and distributer cap, rotor, condenser, coil and points as well as brakes with everything but the oil every 100K miles. I ran the crap out of that truck, commercial use. 200-300 miles every day for better than 10 years.


----------



## alexsoxfan01

Optimus WC said:


> We held off last week and didn't get a chance to update twitter, we were all neck deep in blocks and upgrades, we didn't want to overcommit to another batch yet. We'll do another batch tomorrow, we're good to go for production and production is still moving forward at a regular clip, making blocks non stop now. A few suppliers still cause us problems, but what can ya do.


What time will this FTW3 block drop be tomorrow (thursday)?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> We held off last week and didn't get a chance to update twitter, we were all neck deep in blocks and upgrades, we didn't want to overcommit to another batch yet. We'll do another batch tomorrow


I'm not after an FTW3 block but for the sake of everyone who's read the website and is expecting a drop on Friday, could you stick to that timeline for when you open it up? Otherwise if you release a batch for preorder/sale tomorrow, you're going to get even more angry potential customers who had been waiting until Friday for it. Just not a good idea guys. Communication and sticking to your word are key. And if you're going to miss a deadline (like last friday's drop), you need to tell people. Preferrably in advance. It takes 1 minute to tweet out "Due to some complications, this week's drop is being postponed." Etc etc...And there is literally nothing you could do with that 1 minute that would be more productive that communicating with your customers. All I want is for your communication to be as good as your product is.


----------



## lordkahless

I have the block installed in my O11 XL. Not finished yet as I need to connect my external radiator. The inside of the case has triple 360mm radiators and underneath the desk is a 560mm Hardware labs GTX Nemesis.


----------



## Eulerian

Nice build!


----------



## KedarWolf

Does Optimus have any plans to make active backplates for 3090s? 

It would really help, on those cards, the RAM is double-sided and there are RAM modules on the back of the card that can get quite hot.


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> Does Optimus have any plans to make active backplates for 3090s?
> 
> It would really help, on those cards, the RAM is double-sided and there are RAM modules on the back of the card that can get quite hot.


I think they made thick backplates for that purpose. There were posts in heatkiller thread about someone buying water blocks to mount on the back side and they reduced temps by 5-6degrees. Airflow onto backplate might just yield similar benefits.


----------



## Bart

I'd chew off a finger for a GPU block for the Asus TUF Gaming 6900XT! OptimusWC, who do I have to bribe down there, LOL!


----------



## tpmeredith

HyperMatrix said:


> I'm not after an FTW3 block but for the sake of everyone who's read the website and is expecting a drop on Friday, could you stick to that timeline for when you open it up? Otherwise if you release a batch for preorder/sale tomorrow, you're going to get even more angry potential customers who had been waiting until Friday for it. Just not a good idea guys. Communication and sticking to your word are key. And if you're going to miss a deadline (like last friday's drop), you need to tell people. Preferably in advance. It takes 1 minute to tweet out "Due to some complications, this week's drop is being postponed." Etc etc...And there is literally nothing you could do with that 1 minute that would be more productive that communicating with your customers. All I want is for your communication to be as good as your product is.


+1 This. Hit the nail on the head. Wasting an hour last Friday refreshing the webpage and the time came and gone, with no communication, is the most frustrating part. Frankly it made me just give up on waiting on an Optimus GPU block and I bought an alphacool which arrived today already. When selling a premium product (Which is indeed the best premium product), it's not too much to ask to just have basic communication to not waste customers time. I'll enjoy my optimus AM4 block and wish I had the optimus GPU block, but the lack of communication after directly confirming with people on twitter who inquired about the time simply was my last straw.. I hope Optimus can improve their communication in the future as its a shame to have such a great product fail so miserably with communication.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> KPE - yes, we'll have more updates in a week or two, as soon as we're comfortable with the new equipment and have time to peel away from that to work on the KPE design. Strix design is done but not tested, KPE is roughed out, but not designed. It won't be a hard design (unlike the original FTW or the Strix, which is a PITA), but we want to make sure we have all the performance we can get out of it.
> 
> FITTINGS - yes, we just got more made, we'll prob have them avail to sell today or, more likely, tomorrow.


So about the fittings...any chance those will still go up for sale today?


----------



## JustinThyme

tpmeredith said:


> +1 This. Hit the nail on the head. Wasting an hour last Friday refreshing the webpage and the time came and gone, with no communication, is the most frustrating part. Frankly it made me just give up on waiting on an Optimus GPU block and I bought an alphacool which arrived today already. When selling a premium product (Which is indeed the best premium product), it's not too much to ask to just have basic communication to not waste customers time. I'll enjoy my optimus AM4 block and wish I had the optimus GPU block, but the lack of communication after directly confirming with people on twitter who inquired about the time simply was my last straw.. I hope Optimus can improve their communication in the future as its a shame to have such a great product fail so miserably with communication.



This is why they won’t last, don’t care if the blocks are solid gold. People get tired of waiting and no communication and eventually move on to manufacturer that will deliver, although I’m not a fan of alphcool anything. 

Even Phanteks has a block out for the 30XX strix cards backplate included for $200. From experience with the 2080ti strix blocks phanteks makes decent blocks and they are new in water cooling as well, second year in. They are also nice looking blocks with excellent fit and finish. Not cheap Barrow garbage.

As does everyone else. Can even buy a block right now from aqauacomputer for a 3090 strix with an active back plate here Optimus is still on the drawing board? You guys are gonna have to pick up your game if you want to last and compete in the market. I have no doubt in your ability to craft your own design and have it perform but there is a big difference between being able to do it and actually delivering. Everyone else is dealing with a pandemic too so please don’t go there. Everyone else is still delivering. There are 3 models to worry about. Reference, Strix and FTW. No one cares about the rest.


----------



## dwolvin

That Phanteks block is pretty, hopefully there will be some good reviews...


----------



## HyperMatrix

JustinThyme said:


> There are 3 models to worry about. Reference, Strix and FTW. *No one cares about the rest.*


----------



## asdf893

So I added a 2nd 3090ftw3ultra with an alphacool block in parallel "after" the optimus block. How unfair would it be to compare the temps between the 2 cards?


----------



## Kashtan

Ship today coldplate from Optimus. Thank you.


----------



## straha20

asdf893 said:


> So I added a 2nd 3090ftw3ultra with an alphacool block in parallel "after" the optimus block. How unfair would it be to compare the temps between the 2 cards?
> 
> View attachment 2478361


Looking at what is shown that picture, I'd say it wouldn't be a fair comparison at all...the AlphaCool wins by a landslide, hand down.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> This is why they won’t last, don’t care if the blocks are solid gold. People get tired of waiting and no communication and eventually move on to manufacturer that will deliver, although I’m not a fan of alphcool anything.
> 
> Even Phanteks has a block out for the 30XX strix cards backplate included for $200. From experience with the 2080ti strix blocks phanteks makes decent blocks and they are new in water cooling as well, second year in. They are also nice looking blocks with excellent fit and finish. Not cheap Barrow garbage.
> 
> As does everyone else. Can even buy a block right now from aqauacomputer for a 3090 strix with an active back plate here Optimus is still on the drawing board? You guys are gonna have to pick up your game if you want to last and compete in the market. I have no doubt in your ability to craft your own design and have it perform but there is a big difference between being able to do it and actually delivering. Everyone else is dealing with a pandemic too so please don’t go there. Everyone else is still delivering. There are 3 models to worry about. Reference, Strix and FTW. No one cares about the rest.


I think lot of people are just plain impatient. They can't wait for Heatkiller, Aquacomputer to release stuff and in case of Optimus to produce stuff. Heatkiller and Aquacomputer has some pretty bad delays at the moment. It takes aquacomputer 60days to restock stuff, Even Heatkiller Mo-Ra3 420 radiators are suffering 14day production (check out hardwareluxx.de - I found that site the owner rico and assistant markus respond lot faster than ocn rep).

We will see what will happen once heatkiller updates the rest of its lineup. Thanks to Jakob, we know the whole lineup will get updated (unlike aquacomputer stealth update and surprise you with new product like next flow meter and leaving recent buyers of the old flow meter screwed). I think heatkiller tube looks really nice buts its quite an hassle to take apart it (say just to change an pump). Once they update there CPU block for AM5/LGA1700 and even Mo-Ra3, we are going to see lot more competition. Even heatkiller tube probably could use an update imo. Even aquacomputer may have to update there blocks for AM5/LGA1700 and if both implented smaller microfin channels alone, we would be pushing the industry forward.

I'm probably one of the few here that are willing to put up with heatkiller long delayed release of its new internal radiator. I am personally glad i waited as based on the pictures, its something i really want. I'm going to have to re-examine my CPU block brand when I do LGA1700/AM5 Upgrade in couple years. I will want the best performing block for that chipset at that time.


----------



## asdf893

straha20 said:


> Looking at what is shown that picture, I'd say it wouldn't be a fair comparison at all...the AlphaCool wins by a landslide, hand down.


alphacool temps are consistently 10c above optimus. Of course their block costs less than half and is available quickly from performance-PC's in the US  But is the 10C real or is that just a result of it being at the "end" of this parallel portion.


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> alphacool temps are consistently 10c above optimus. Of course their block costs less than half and is available quickly from performance-PC's in the US  But is the 10C real or is that just a result of it being at the "end" of this parallel portion.


We need igorslab to do another water block comparison with all the new players including optimus once they all come out. Alphacool for its price it makes sense performance wise. It's what is the difference between Optimus (assume its among the top in performance), Aquacomputer, Heatkiller, Techn and the tier of EKWB, Bitspower, China Brands, Phantek.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I think lot of people are just plain impatient. They can't wait for Heatkiller, Aquacomputer to release stuff and in case of Optimus to produce stuff. Heatkiller and Aquacomputer has some pretty bad delays at the moment. It takes aquacomputer 60days to restock stuff, Even Heatkiller Mo-Ra3 420 radiators are suffering 14day production (check out hardwareluxx.de - I found that site the owner rico and assistant markus respond lot faster than ocn rep).
> 
> We will see what will happen once heatkiller updates the rest of its lineup. Thanks to Jakob, we know the whole lineup will get updated (unlike aquacomputer stealth update and surprise you with new product like next flow meter and leaving recent buyers of the old flow meter screwed). I think heatkiller tube looks really nice buts its quite an hassle to take apart it (say just to change an pump). Once they update there CPU block for AM5/LGA1700 and even Mo-Ra3, we are going to see lot more competition. Even heatkiller tube probably could use an update imo. Even aquacomputer may have to update there blocks for AM5/LGA1700 and if both implented smaller microfin channels alone, we would be pushing the industry forward.
> 
> I'm probably one of the few here that are willing to put up with heatkiller long delayed release of its new internal radiator. I am personally glad i waited as based on the pictures, its something i really want. I'm going to have to re-examine my CPU block brand when I do LGA1700/AM5 Upgrade in couple years. I will want the best performing block for that chipset at that time.


They both have stock for the Strix cards. It’s not so much impatient as it is just plain non existent. They posted within the last week that the Strix cards were still on the drawing board with zero produced for testing while most of the others have them up for sale. A few get lucky, most will get their goods either cancelled or the next gen will be out. That’s the problem. What I know is if it’s a question of 1 or 2 C I’m not holding up a build until it’s obsolete when others are a available.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> They both have stock for the Strix cards. It’s not so much impatient as it is just plain non existent. They posted within the last week that the Strix cards were still on the drawing board with zero produced for testing while most of the others have them up for sale. A few get lucky, most will get their goods either cancelled or the next gen will be out. That’s the problem. What I know is if it’s a question of 1 or 2 C I’m not holding up a build until it’s obsolete when others are a available.


Good find on aquacomputer having stock. Haven't checked in a while. Lately aquacomputer stuff has been like that. Sell out super fast (even from them direct where shipping overseas is expensive) and then take long period to restock.


----------



## straha20

asdf893 said:


> alphacool temps are consistently 10c above optimus. Of course their block costs less than half and is available quickly from performance-PC's in the US  But is the 10C real or is that just a result of it being at the "end" of this parallel portion.


Well, in that specific picture, the card with the AlphaCool block has no power connected to it, so I guarantee it will run cooler


----------



## asdf893

straha20 said:


> Well, in that specific picture, the card with the AlphaCool block has no power connected to it, so I guarantee it will run cooler


LOL fine, in this config.


----------



## dwolvin

I'd say the only way to be sure would be to put them in series. In parallel the block with the higher restriction will get much lower coolant flow.


----------



## alexsoxfan01

Think it's a little too optimistic to expect optimus to list ftw3 blocks for sale tomorrow? They missed last week and today


----------



## Darkstar757

Those you who are saying folks are not patient are idiots. When you buy a product you expect it on time not 4 months later. Im sorry but Optimus has really screwed up and it will be the last time I buy anything from them.


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## Section31

Darkstar757 said:


> Those you who are saying folks are not patient are idiots. When you buy a product you expect it on time not 4 months later. Im sorry but Optimus has really screwed up and it will be the last time I buy anything from them.


Very understandable. Its an niche market but has many players. Get the item that makes you happy and on timely basis. There are many players out there in this field (and ever growing too). Hope you find what you like.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Good find on aquacomputer having stock. Haven't checked in a while. Lately aquacomputer stuff has been like that. Sell out super fast (even from them direct where shipping overseas is expensive) and then take long period to restock.


Aquacomputer orders are factory direct. They will even tell you they are not a retailer and make most of their products for retailer orders.


----------



## Shawnb99

Darkstar757 said:


> Those you who are saying folks are not patient are idiots. When you buy a product you expect it on time not 4 months later. Im sorry but Optimus has really screwed up and it will be the last time I buy anything from them.


When I buy a block for a card that was released 4 months ago I don't expect it on time and if you do then you've never bought a block for the latest GPU. The delays isn't what's screwing up Optimus it's the lack of communication, or least fragmented communication. Replying to some and not others
If you expected any of the 3090 blocks on time then you're the idiot.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Aquacomputer orders are factory direct. They will even tell you they are not a retailer and make most of their products for retailer orders.


True. PPCS, modmymods also have better restocks than dazmode. We got like 2-3months restocks and items to be available so its faster for canadians to order direct if shipping reasonable


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> When I buy a block for a card that was released 4 months ago I don't expect it on time and if you do then you've never bought a block for the latest GPU. The delays isn't what's screwing up Optimus it's the lack of communication, or least fragmented communication. Replying to some and not others
> If you expected any of the 3090 blocks on time then you're the idiot.


I ordered blocks for my Maxwell Titan X as well as Pascal Titan X from Aquacomputer back when they launched. Maxwell blocks were shipped almost exactly 4 months after launch date. Pascal blocks were better. I believe they shipped in about 2-3 months after launch. So I don't think it's reasonable to say 4 months after launch you'd have to be an idiot to expect to get a block. The expectation is on the manufacturer to manage orders/shipments and communication. No company owes us product. Whether we're talking about people who can't find a 3090 card, or those who can't buy a block for one. But that doesn't mean that as a potential customer you can't complain about it. If anything, mentioning all their delays on here is the best thing you can do. The best way to correct a problem is to bring attention to it. If they develop enough of a bad reputation for the areas they're lacking, the more they may be inclined to correct their behavior. 

And for the record...look at chinese blocks from Bykski that were out probably within weeks after launch. So it's not an impossible task or expectation that a block would be available after 4 months, especially given the price premium for these blocks. I honestly believe that with the premium they're demanding for their products, they'd have been better served by investing more in increasing their production capacity and hiring someone just to manage their communication with customers. But I think it's more of a mom and pop shop operation, which is fine. They're still making good stuff. But they're holding their own growth back while irritating potential customers at the same time.


----------



## Kashtan

Ship today coldplate from Optimus. Thank you.
But Fasteners and backplate not in parcel.
I many times ask about fasteners, also in private messages and email-messages.


Kashtan said:


> I tried to purchase coldplate nickel for my Sig2, but me also needed accessories - backplate, fasteners springs rings etc. 10 days ago - not response on my email list. I hope Optimus stay alive.





Kashtan said:


> Hi, i tried to purchase coldplate nickel for my Sig2, but me also needed accessories - backplate, fasteners springs rings etc.This is possible?





Kashtan said:


> I take message about send to my my order #3035 - but I'm wondering - did the mounts and fasteners come with my coldplate? I wrote to the email - no response. I would appreciate your feedback here. Thanks.











What is type of this fasteners? Index, model, etc? I can hope was i finding these at local markets for purchase?


----------



## Darb

I love the clean look of Optimus products. I have an AMD block and Reservoir on order. Waiting for more fittings to become available. I do not mind the wait as they are all about quality which I greatly appreciate. Like other companies they have seen an unexpected upsurge of orders due to the Covid effect. Optimus is trying to fulfill these orders while maintaining the quality control of the product. I imagine it is a scramble. Communication has suffered as the adjust period works itself out. It takes time to upscale and even more time when you are a smaller production outfit. It will get better as things start to fall in line. I have no problem waiting for a product I know I will enjoy.


----------



## Shawnb99

Darb said:


> I have no problem waiting for a product I know I will enjoy.


I don’t think many are complaining of the wait. It’s more of the lack of communication, replying to some and not others and incidents like @Kashtan who sent multiple emails over an issue only for it still to be an issue. **** like this is extremely frustrating and aggravating.


----------



## Wihglah

She is finally complete:


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I ordered blocks for my Maxwell Titan X as well as Pascal Titan X from Aquacomputer back when they launched. Maxwell blocks were shipped almost exactly 4 months after launch date. Pascal blocks were better. I believe they shipped in about 2-3 months after launch. So I don't think it's reasonable to say 4 months after launch you'd have to be an idiot to expect to get a block. The expectation is on the manufacturer to manage orders/shipments and communication. No company owes us product. Whether we're talking about people who can't find a 3090 card, or those who can't buy a block for one. But that doesn't mean that as a potential customer you can't complain about it. If anything, mentioning all their delays on here is the best thing you can do. The best way to correct a problem is to bring attention to it. If they develop enough of a bad reputation for the areas they're lacking, the more they may be inclined to correct their behavior.
> 
> And for the record...look at chinese blocks from Bykski that were out probably within weeks after launch. So it's not an impossible task or expectation that a block would be available after 4 months, especially given the price premium for these blocks. I honestly believe that with the premium they're demanding for their products, they'd have been better served by investing more in increasing their production capacity and hiring someone just to manage their communication with customers. But I think it's more of a mom and pop shop operation, which is fine. They're still making good stuff. But they're holding their own growth back while irritating potential customers at the same time.


Its all good points. 4 weeks pre pandemic was very much accurate now not so much. I just recently finally got my wife’s yamaha piano after 6months (unfortunately theres another week delay due to outbreak at the warehouse). There reason was lack of computer chips (its an electric piano), resulting in cut production and then shipping logistics. Apparently only 3 were allocated to canada. This is yamaha electric mini grand too and yamaha is big in the piano industry.

Optimus has definitely room to expand just keep in mind theres over expansion and increased risk associated with it. Tough balancing act.


----------



## Sir Beregond

JustinThyme said:


> although I’m not a fan of alphcool anything.


Had never used them before but they were the only ones besides Bykski offering a block for the 3070 I managed to snag. Should I be worried about the Alphacool block I ore-ordered. I don't really know anything about them.


----------



## Avacado

Sir Beregond said:


> Had never used them before but they were the only ones besides Bykski offering a block for the 3070 I managed to snag. Should I be worried about the Alphacool block I ore-ordered. I don't really know anything about them.


No, you should not be worried. They make solid products.

I don't much care for the look of their 3 series blocks or the lack of metal contained within them, however I have never had ANY issues with ACool products and their quality is very good.


----------



## straha20

One thing I have found interesting as more water blocks are hitting the market is that Optimus seems to be the only one that has copper over the VRMs.


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> One thing I have found interesting as more water blocks are hitting the market is that Optimus seems to be the only one that has copper over the VRMs.


I suspect it’s because copper prices gone through the roof.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Had never used them before but they were the only ones besides Bykski offering a block for the 3070 I managed to snag. Should I be worried about the Alphacool block I ore-ordered. I don't really know anything about them.


They all the do the job just what fits your time schedule, budget and looks. Very rarely is there bad waterblock just quality control issues. In the end of the day, its how you feel its best to spend your money. Its an very individual answer.


----------



## straha20

Section31 said:


> I suspect it’s because copper prices gone through the roof.


My PWR temps top out in the upper 40's c under extended load, so not bad.

One thing I am still trying to get used to is the temps on my CPU. I upgraded from a 3800x to a 5900x. I had manually set my 3800x clocks to 4ghz all core, and am just letting my 5900x do its thing, and going from 25c idle to a steady 35c under load on the 3800x to seeing~35c idle to 45 - 50c with spikes into the 60's on the 5900x under load... a bit jarring.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Avacado said:


> No, you should not be worried. They make solid products.
> 
> I don't much care for the look of their 3 series blocks or the lack of metal contained within them, however I have never had ANY issues with ACool products and their quality is very good.


Thanks! Yeah I don't care much for the look either, but I am not vertical mounting so figured it didn't matter much.


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> My PWR temps top out in the upper 40's c under extended load, so not bad.
> 
> One thing I am still trying to get used to is the temps on my CPU. I upgraded from a 3800x to a 5900x. I had manually set my 3800x clocks to 4ghz all core, and am just letting my 5900x do its thing, and going from 25c idle to a steady 35c under load on the 3800x to seeing~35c idle to 45 - 50c with spikes into the 60's on the 5900x under load... a bit jarring.


What were you doing. If stress tests thats not bad. Ryzen 5000 does run hotter than 3000.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Thanks! Yeah I don't care much for the look either, but I am not vertical mounting so figured it didn't matter much.


I hope the purchase works out for you. Watercooling pc is an niche community that helps eachother out.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> I hope the purchase works out for you. Watercooling pc is an niche community that helps eachother out.


Thanks, I agree. 

Any idea when the AM4 Optimus blocks come back in stock? Love the clean look, and the black nickel plated one would go very well with my planned color scheme.


----------



## straha20

Section31 said:


> What were you doing. If stress tests thats not bad. Ryzen 5000 does run hotter than 3000.


Cinebench 20 and 23 multi core will sit at 60c when running, single core will bounce between 58 and 63c when running. No OC on the processor, and PBO off. MC will sit at 4.3ghz, and SC cores will hit 4.95ghz.

Just need to keep remembering that a 3090 FTW3 and 5900x is a bit more beefy and power hungry than a 1080ti and 3800x.


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> Cinebench 20 and 23 multi core will sit at 60c when running, single core will bounce between 58 and 63c when running. No OC on the processor, and PBO off. MC will sit at 4.3ghz, and SC cores will hit 4.95ghz.
> 
> Just need to keep remembering that a 3090 FTW3 and 5900x is a bit more beefy and power hungry than a 1080ti and 3800x.


Seems pretty reasonable based on cooling you have.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Thanks, I agree.
> 
> Any idea when the AM4 Optimus blocks come back in stock? Love the clean look, and the black nickel plated one would go very well with my planned color scheme.


Actually i bought one of the satin blemish blocks for the coldplate only. I plan to give it away for shipping only once i swap the coldplate with mine


----------



## straha20

Section31 said:


> Seems pretty reasonable based on cooling you have.


Just debating on whether or not I should try reseating my CPU block. At this point, I think not.

I have noticed some debris in my GPU block fins that I am going to clean out as soon as I get my reservoirs. I am going to try and just remove the acrylic front without removing the cold plate mount because I think I have that bang on. Temps on my GPU never exceed 40c, even under heavy extended load.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys,

GPU and AMD blocks for sale right now.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Actually i bought one of the satin blemish blocks for the coldplate only. I plan to give it away for shipping only once i swap the coldplate with mine


What was wrong with your coldplate? Or just wanted a different style coldplate?


----------



## Darb

Are fittings up today also?


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> GPU and AMD blocks for sale right now.


Awesome!

1/2 inch Silver Hardline compression fittings soon? I need 24 of them...


----------



## Avacado

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> GPU and AMD blocks for sale right now.


Have all the back ordered blocks been shipped? You could take a moment to comment on all the frustration previously posted in this thread as of late before pushing more product.


----------



## Jon01010

I just ordered an FTW3 Block. Got the card a week ago at MicroCenter. Looks like I will be bending some new hardline hopefully in March.


----------



## Swiso

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> GPU and AMD blocks for sale right now.


Thanks !
Was able to grab one 3090 GPU block...


----------



## Optimus WC

straha20 said:


> Awesome!
> 
> 1/2 inch Silver Hardline compression fittings soon? I need 24 of them...


Just added inventory, they're in stock.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Just added inventory, they're in stock.


Aaaand got 4 six packs of the 1/2 silver!

Now, once those arrive, and once I get my blemish reservoirs I ordered two weeks ago, I'll have as close to an entirely Optimus build as is possible given the product lines available.

Now just debating whether or not I want to switch from my AM4 copper coldplate to a Nickel one to match my GPU...


----------



## Darb

No 16mm Hardline fittings yet?


----------



## Avacado

Incredible, all of you just rush to buy the products ignoring the previous frustrations of your fellow members here due to lack of communication. The first response we get is not addressing the frustration, but GO BUY NOW! and you all do. That is just crazy to me.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> What was wrong with your coldplate? Or just wanted a different style coldplate?


bit of copper color (dont know from where) on xe nickel cold plate


----------



## Section31

Avacado said:


> Incredible, all of you just rush to buy the products ignoring the previous frustrations of your fellow members here due to lack of communication. The first response we get is not addressing the frustration, but GO BUY NOW! and you all do. That is just crazy to me.


People can’t live without there pcs atm thats why. Its perfectly understandable under current situation lol.

I am one of the few whose pcs whose pcs is only turned for the weekends only and just to watch chinese (all regions), korean and japanese dramas/movies and youtube. I only am patient because my pc usage is so minimal now. Work takes a lot out of me plus households errands and spending quality time with wife that i have no interest in using the pc.


----------



## Jon01010

Avacado said:


> Incredible, all of you just rush to buy the products ignoring the previous frustrations of your fellow members here due to lack of communication. The first response we get is not addressing the frustration, but GO BUY NOW! and you all do. That is just crazy to me.


I've got a couple of Optimus CPU blocks in my systems and have been happy with them. I've been waiting for these to come available again after finally getting a card. I have no expectation of seeing the block this month and honestly if it's April I will manage. I run a small business and know some of the challenges so I'm probably more understanding than some, but I have not ignored this thread, but chose to adjust my expectations on speed and communication in the interim. From what I have seen over the last week, Optimus is hiring, adding capacity and shipping units. Ramping up doesn't happen overnight, but it seems like they are progressing. I like the quality of their components so I'm still supporting them hoping they get to a point over the next few years where there aren't so many growing pains. In the interim I hope to install the card with the air cooler and run it and enjoy it until the block shows up and the re-tube part of that system to put the GPU under water and add the Gigant to the loop and hopefully hit near silent on that system.


----------



## Avacado

Section31 said:


> People can’t live without there pcs atm thats why. Its perfectly understandable under current situation lol.
> 
> I am one of the few whose pcs whose pcs is only turned for the weekends only and just to watch chinese (all regions), korean and japanese dramas/movies and youtube. I only am patient because my pc usage is so minimal now. Work takes a lot out of me plus households errands and spending quality time with wife that i have no interest in using the pc.





Jon01010 said:


> I've got a couple of Optimus CPU blocks in my systems and have been happy with them. I've been waiting for these to come available again after finally getting a card. I have no expectation of seeing the block this month and honestly if it's April I will manage. I run a small business and know some of the challenges so I'm probably more understanding than some, but I have not ignored this thread, but chose to adjust my expectations on speed and communication in the interim. From what I have seen over the last week, Optimus is hiring, adding capacity and shipping units. Ramping up doesn't happen overnight, but it seems like they are progressing. I like the quality of their components so I'm still supporting them hoping they get to a point over the next few years where there aren't so many growing pains. In the interim I hope to install the card with the air cooler and run it and enjoy it until the block shows up and the re-tube part of that system to put the GPU under water and add the Gigant to the loop and hopefully hit near silent on that system.


I hear you, I promise I hear you guys. I own 2 CPU blocks from them as well and they are amazing products. The quality is undisputed and the desperation of people for quality products these days is undeniable as well. That is not what I am shaking my head at.


----------



## Optimus WC

BLOCK UPDATES: all GPU blocks are in production, we've added more hands so we can speed up QC, cleaning, assembling, etc. These GPU blocks -- as people who have received them know -- are serious blocks with a ton of material, and lots of quality throughout. So we spend a lot of time cleaning each part, testing, inspecting, etc. We're working to improve assembly speeds right now, since these blocks are so demanding. We're moving to a new way of doing custom cut thermal pads as well, to make pads clearer and more exact sized. 

Same with the reservoirs -- the cast tubes are a beast to manufacture and polish without scratching. So they can take a bit of time to make. 

As we grow, we're revising and improving the way we clean/test/assemble/ship to be faster. Over the next few months, batch sizes and order fulfillment speed will be improved. 

COPPER ON NICKEL: This has been an ongoing discussion about copper color on our products, and we have, in fact, narrowed it down to radiators. The pic below shows three stages of our fittings. On the left: raw brass fitting. Middle: Inlet fitting in radiator. Right: radiator outlet fitting. As you can see, the outlet accumulates copper particles from the radiator. While on first glance it'd look like the nickel is coming off the fitting and showing the copper underneath, in fact it's copper on top of nickel. Brass is underneath. The copper accumulates on the nickel outlet fitting so quickly, it doesn't even reach the inlet fitting. This is similar to what we see with blocks or reservoir vortex breakers with nickel directly after the radiator. Because our blocks are super clear (and we have nickel in our res, unlike most res), this occurrence is more visible with our products. The good news is cleaning off the copper will reveal fresh nickel, sometimes it jut wipes off, other times it takes something abrasive. Our nickel is strong, so don't worry about going all the way to sand paper if needed.


----------



## Section31

Avacado said:


> I hear you, I promise I hear you guys. I own 2 CPU blocks from them as well and they are amazing products. The quality is undisputed and the desperation of people for quality products these days is undeniable as well. That is not what I am shaking my head at.


Yeah. I genuinely have noticed that people mentally are losing it too all around the world. So Optimus while it has issues with customer communications is probably taking some of the general frustration building up within everyone. We can only take so much before we blow up on somebody over something minor usually.


----------



## straha20

Avacado said:


> I hear you, I promise I hear you guys. I own 2 CPU blocks from them as well and they are amazing products. The quality is undisputed and the desperation of people for quality products these days is undeniable as well. That is not what I am shaking my head at.


Yes, the communication is abysmal, but that leaves the choice being buy the product when they are available if you want them, or not buy them on principle.


----------



## Optimus WC

Also, in case anyone was curious, here is a cold plate on top of the raw GPU copper. The amount of copper needed to make the GPU is obscene, but it's really the least amount we could use in order to appropriately cool all important parts of the GPU, and not just have copper touching, but optimized flow paths over those areas (the mosfets especially).


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> BLOCK UPDATES: all GPU blocks are in production, we've added more hands so we can speed up QC, cleaning, assembling, etc. These GPU blocks -- as people who have received them know -- are serious blocks with a ton of material, and lots of quality throughout. So we spend a lot of time cleaning each part, testing, inspecting, etc. We're working to improve assembly speeds right now, since these blocks are so demanding. We're moving to a new way of doing custom cut thermal pads as well, to make pads clearer and more exact sized.
> 
> Same with the reservoirs -- the cast tubes are a beast to manufacture and polish without scratching. So they can take a bit of time to make.
> 
> As we grow, we're revising and improving the way we clean/test/assemble/ship to be faster. Over the next few months, batch sizes and order fulfillment speed will be improved.
> 
> COPPER ON NICKEL: This has been an ongoing discussion about copper color on our products, and we have, in fact, narrowed it down to radiators. The pic below shows three stages of our fittings. On the left: raw brass fitting. Middle: Inlet fitting in radiator. Right: radiator outlet fitting. As you can see, the outlet accumulates copper particles from the radiator. While on first glance it'd look like the nickel is coming off the fitting and showing the copper underneath, in fact it's copper on top of nickel. Brass is underneath. The copper accumulates on the nickel outlet fitting so quickly, it doesn't even reach the inlet fitting. This is similar to what we see with blocks or reservoir vortex breakers with nickel directly after the radiator. Because our blocks are super clear (and we have nickel in our res, unlike most res), this occurrence is more visible with our products. The good news is cleaning off the copper will reveal fresh nickel, sometimes it jut wipes off, other times it takes something abrasive. Our nickel is strong, so don't worry about going all the way to sand paper if needed.
> 
> View attachment 2478515


Thank you. I will try cleaning it up when I do my next installation in the summer. Hopefully the new heatkiller internal radiators are clean so i don't encounter it.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Also, in case anyone was curious, here is a cold plate on top of the raw GPU copper. The amount of copper needed to make the GPU is obscene, but it's really the least amount we could use in order to appropriately cool all important parts of the GPU, and not just have copper touching, but optimized flow paths over those areas (the mosfets especially).
> 
> View attachment 2478517


Curious if you are guys are looking into how to further improve the cooling on the backside memory of some of the GPU's. No timeline of course i understand


----------



## ComplexPepper

optimus is ghosting me

ordered months ago and havent gotten shipping, why is optimus taking more orders???????

do i need to pursue chargeback with my bank?


----------



## Optimus WC

ComplexPepper said:


> optimus is ghosting me
> 
> ordered months ago and havent gotten shipping, why is optimus taking more orders???????
> 
> do i need to pursue chargeback with my bank?


Hey there, sorry about the emails, the entire team has been working on improvements. If you want to cancel and get a refund, we can do that asap. For new orders, we're getting into a regular production flow. While our ETAs often get pushed back due to unforeseen situations, we will ship your block. The FTW3 blocks have been shipping regularly, so it's not vaporware, just blocks that take a long time to make and build, which we've made regular improvements and are getting better


----------



## Phroz3

ComplexPepper said:


> optimus is ghosting me
> 
> ordered months ago and havent gotten shipping, why is optimus taking more orders???????
> 
> do i need to pursue chargeback with my bank?


It'd be faster to ask for a refund. What product did you order and what the digits of the order #? Just wondering if you are tail end of batch 2.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, sorry about the emails, the entire team has been working on improvements. If you want to cancel and get a refund, we can do that asap. For new orders, we're getting into a regular production flow. While our ETAs often get pushed back due to unforeseen situations, we will ship your block. The FTW3 blocks have been shipping regularly, so it's not vaporware, just blocks that take a long time to make and build, which we've made regular improvements and are getting better


Just to be clear here...

The blemish reservoirs for sale are items you actually have in hand, and all that needed done with those is for them to be boxed and shipped?
The fittings that went on sale today, you actually have those in hand and all that needs to be done is for them to be boxed up and shipped?

Because I ordered 2 8.5 inch blemish reservoirs two weeks ago, and 4 six packs of fittings today.


----------



## Optimus WC

straha20 said:


> Just to be clear here...
> 
> The blemish reservoirs for sale are items you actually have in hand, and all that needed done with those is for them to be boxed and shipped?
> The fittings that went on sale today, you actually have those in hand and all that needs to be done is for them to be boxed up and shipped?
> 
> Because I ordered 2 8.5 inch blemish reservoirs two weeks ago, and 4 six packs of fittings today.


Correct -- assembled, tested, boxed, shipped. We're still checking all the blemish reservoirs for leaks, etc. Not just sending out pieces.


----------



## Shawnb99

UPS Worldwide Expedited® at $121.97 USD is the cheapest shipping option for two 8.5" Reservoirs? What happened to make the shipping go through the roof?


----------



## Optimus WC

Really? It's all calculated dynamically based on weight etc, and that hasn't changed ever. Though we did use USPS in the past, but internally they are hot trash, losing boxes half the time, so we ditched them.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> UPS Worldwide Expedited® at $121.97 USD is the cheapest shipping option for two 8.5" Reservoirs? What happened to make the shipping go through the roof?


UPS/USPS rates have jumped alot. So far Fedex/DHL are most stable.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah Damn UPS jacked the rates to up north. Oh well was just looking anyways. UPS Ground to Florida is still a bit expensive at $51.69 USD. Forgot I had a Sig V2 block as well but still that shouldn't bump up the weight that much. Just expensive as everything is atm


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> Really? It's all calculated dynamically based on weight etc, and that hasn't changed ever. Though we did use USPS in the past, but internally they are hot trash, losing boxes half the time, so we ditched them.


Please consider going through a shipping broker. I can ship a GPU in box from Calgary, Canada to California with UPS for about $15 through my broker. Normal account prices are ridiculous if you don’t ship in massive volume.


----------



## Phroz3

Shawnb99 said:


> UPS Worldwide Expedited® at $121.97 USD is the cheapest shipping option for two 8.5" Reservoirs? What happened to make the shipping go through the roof?


Not saying it is related but air freight prices were forecasted to go through the roof due to covid vaccines requiring air shipment.








Air freight prices 'outrageous' as COVID-19 shots rolled out, says WHO expert


Some carriers are seeking "outrageous" prices to fly dry ice and other medical equipment in the pre-holiday rush, but a capacity squeeze should ease in 2021 when the roll-out of COVID-19 vaccines is expected, the World Health Organization's logistics chief said on Tuesday.




www.reuters.com


----------



## Phroz3

Optimus WC said:


> Really? It's all calculated dynamically based on weight etc, and that hasn't changed ever. Though we did use USPS in the past, but internally they are hot trash, losing boxes half the time, so we ditched them.


My order on the 29th (3479) let me choose USPS shipping. Does that mean I will get UPS instead? Would be fine with me, I was just trying to get through the checkout as fast as I could. I'd pay the difference to upgrade to UPS if needed.


----------



## Swiso

Avacado said:


> Incredible, all of you just rush to buy the products ignoring the previous frustrations of your fellow members here due to lack of communication. The first response we get is not addressing the frustration, but GO BUY NOW! and you all do. That is just crazy to me.


Why crazy ? Why rush to buy it ?
I need as GPU block....Optimus, at the moment, has the best one (performance wise)... the frustration, for me, was that they told at the end of january that from that moment EACH FRIDAY AT NOON (was written in capitol letters..) a batch would have been made available to buy.....only to find out that the next friday that was not the case...
I still need some parts for my new buld...Cablemod told me that my custom cable order would be shipped not before the first week of April....so, at the end, I have the time to wait....just tell the things for how they are...don't promise something that the next day you know you cannot maintain...
its all good if I have to wait 4 weeks....just be consequent of what you say...


----------



## Section31

Swiso said:


> Why crazy ? Why rush to buy it ?
> I need as GPU block....Optimus, at the moment, has the best one (performance wise)... the frustration, for me, was that they told at the end of january that from that moment EACH FRIDAY AT NOON (was written in capitol letters..) a batch would have been made available to buy.....only to find out that the next friday that was not the case...
> I still need some parts for my new buld...Cablemod told me that my custom cable order would be shipped not before the first week of April....so, at the end, I have the time to wait....just tell the things for how they are...don't promise something that the next day you know you cannot maintain...
> its all good if I have to wait 4 weeks....just be consequent of what you say...


Cablemod cables delay that bad. I right now am looking at Titan Rigs for MDPC-X if BeyondCustoms can't get my cables out of South Africa by Summer. Chasing him pretty frequently.


----------



## Swiso

Yes, the estimate shipping date for my order is 8th of April....well...almost two months from now....I can live with that...in the meantime I can install all the parts of my custom loop and all the hardware...
Hopefully when the cables arrive, I am already set....


----------



## Section31

Swiso said:


> Yes, the estimate shipping date for my order is 8th of April....well...almost two months from now....I can live with that...in the meantime I can install all the parts of my custom loop and all the hardware...
> Hopefully when the cables arrive, I am already set....


I'm held up by heakiller new internal radiators. Summer install for me


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Cablemod cables delay that bad. I right now am looking at Titan Rigs for MDPC-X if BeyondCustoms can't get my cables out of South Africa by Summer. Chasing him pretty frequently.


I think it's time to start making our own cables.


----------



## Swiso

Thank god I got almost everything...bought from aquatuning some rads and stuff....Bitspower fittings are on the way..should be here by Monday...
Just missing GPU Block and cables...
BUT...its from past October that I started with this build...😬


----------



## Shawnb99

Swiso said:


> Thank god I got almost everything...bought from aquatuning some rads and stuff....Bitspower fittings are on the way..should be here by Monday...
> Just missing GPU Block and cables...
> BUT...its from past October that I started with this build...😬


I started around the same time. Still waiting on the KPE block and haven't even started measuring for custom cables yet. Though I keep considering making my own


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I started around the same time. Still waiting on the KPE block and haven't even started measuring for custom cables yet. Though I keep considering making my own


Even buying the MDPC-X mats from Europe is expensive too (they got all the colors). Cheapest route is beyondcustoms by wide margin for Canadians but getting them done on time is the issue.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Even buying the MDPC-X mats from Europe is expensive too (they got all the colors). Cheapest route is beyondcustoms by wide margin for Canadians but getting them done on time is the issue.



Yeah I know. Doing it yourself isn't a money saver at all and more of a headache. Figuring out what is needed can be a bit confusing


----------



## Swiso

Shawnb99 said:


> I started around the same time. Still waiting on the KPE block and haven't even started measuring for custom cables yet. Though I keep considering making my own


I see...for the cables I had to wait the 10th of January for the case to arrive....and then to decide where to mount what....
Order made on 30th of January...


----------



## Sir Beregond

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah I know. Doing it yourself isn't a money saver at all and more of a headache. Figuring out what is needed can be a bit confusing


I tried and decided it wasn't for me. Still got a bunch of black and red MDPC-X sleeving and heatshrink from like 2011/2012 sitting in a closet that I spent too much money on.

Admittedly the black came in handy for some unsleeved pump cables. But I just did not have the skill to do PSU cables.


----------



## onMute

Optimus WC said:


> Also, in case anyone was curious, here is a cold plate on top of the raw GPU copper. The amount of copper needed to make the GPU is obscene, but it's really the least amount we could use in order to appropriately cool all important parts of the GPU, and not just have copper touching, but optimized flow paths over those areas (the mosfets especially).
> 
> View attachment 2478517


Are any of these raw blocks for the KPE design?


----------



## Optimus WC

onMute said:


> Are any of these raw blocks for the KPE design?


Everything in that stack is FTW3, but the KPE will use the same copper, and there are many more slabs of copper out of frame


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Cablemod cables delay that bad. I right now am looking at Titan Rigs for MDPC-X if BeyondCustoms can't get my cables out of South Africa by Summer. Chasing him pretty frequently.


Check out mainframe customs. Great looking custom cables.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Everything in that stack is FTW3, but the KPE will use the same copper, and there are many more slabs of copper out of frame


How much longer before they are ready? Hydrocopper blocks as said to be out in March


----------



## acoustic

Darb said:


> I love the clean look of Optimus products. I have an AMD block and Reservoir on order. Waiting for more fittings to become available. I do not mind the wait as they are all about quality which I greatly appreciate. Like other companies they have seen an unexpected upsurge of orders due to the Covid effect. Optimus is trying to fulfill these orders while maintaining the quality control of the product. I imagine it is a scramble. Communication has suffered as the adjust period works itself out. It takes time to upscale and even more time when you are a smaller production outfit. It will get better as things start to fall in line. I have no problem waiting for a product I know I will enjoy.


The "making excuses for Optimus" boat has long sailed.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I think it's time to start making our own cables.


I have an local person to make cables if i choice to buy mats. Well known canadian modder if i need cables made lol.


----------



## Darb

acoustic said:


> The "making excuses for Optimus" boat has long sailed.


Not an excuse just recognizing reality rather than complaining about it.


----------



## acoustic

Darb said:


> Not an excuse just recognizing reality rather than complaining about it.


That's funny, and it's been explained multiple times already why the "reality" crap is BS, but it's been beaten to death in this thread at this point.


----------



## Shawnb99

Darb said:


> Not an excuse just recognizing reality rather than complaining about it.


The only thing I recognize is this simulation is really state of the art. Still can’t download karate directly so it still had a ways to go.


----------



## JustinThyme

straha20 said:


> One thing I have found interesting as more water blocks are hitting the market is that Optimus seems to be the only one that has copper over the VRMs.


They are all copper. Deciding factor is whether or not to nickel plate which adds to the cost. Supposedly pure copper has better thermals but Ive not seen in over several blocks so I dispelled that notion to be minimal if any. I prefer nickel plated mostly because copper is beautiful when its shiny and new but the beauty fades like a pron star after she gets on the crack pipe. It always oxidizes, not a matter of if but when. Nickel, if done correctly, will be shiny clean forever. If done poorly then it will flake. Thats where choice of who you source your blocks from comes in. I have had nickel shed twice and both fairly recently. First Optimus Sig V2 cold plate whose state of the art electroless plating is guaranteed not to flake off, flaked off. In their defense they did replace the cold plate. The other was an EK GPU block that I ended up scraping because "You must have run poor coolant" was thrown at me instead of were sorry and we will get a new one out right away. Other than that. No other nickel problems in dozens of CPU and GPU blocks. Thing is there really is only one country that does plating as its a toxic adventure and dangerous so its outsourced where there are no laws to protect the employees that are working for next to nothing. Ill leave each individual to figure that one out. Problem is they don't care if you drop them as there are 50 people waiting in line to fill the void.


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> GPU and AMD blocks for sale right now.


How about one of the flat Sig V2 blem block only. I asked in this thread when you offered them up and sent a PM with no answer. I have all the blocks and cold plates already. Just want to try the flat to see if it works better on 10980XE than pulling the Oring to take out the bow. So far my best results have been with the Magnitude flat cold plate.


----------



## evilbob2200

anyone figure out teh thermal pad thickness for the ftw3 block? wanted to pick up some spares.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Plan to put the block on my ftw3 today and get it into the loop. I've noticed people complain about the thermal pad on the backplate bulging out. Is this just around the screws or is it in other areas? Would like to trim it so this doesn't happen. Anyone have a pic?


----------



## Swiso

One question... can anybody that has bought the FTW3 Block, post the manual instructions included in the Block?
Just want to check for the fittings...
Asked Optimus but got no answer.

Thanks !


----------



## straha20

Edge0fsanity said:


> Plan to put the block on my ftw3 today and get it into the loop. I've noticed people complain about the thermal pad on the backplate bulging out. Is this just around the screws or is it in other areas? Would like to trim it so this doesn't happen. Anyone have a pic?


I have not done it yet. Waiting until a maintenance time, but the areas circled in green where the thermal pad sticks out through the cutouts in the PCB is what I plan on trimming with an x-acto knife.










Plan on just leaving the backplate mounted, and cutting along the pcb cutouts.


----------



## Darb

straha20 said:


> I have not done it yet. Waiting until a maintenance time, but the areas circled in green where the thermal pad sticks out through the cutouts in the PCB is what I plan on trimming with an x-acto knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plan on just leaving the backplate mounted, and cutting along the pcb cutouts.


Nice set up. How do you like your Heatkiller Res.?


----------



## straha20

Darb said:


> Nice set up. How do you like your Heatkiller Res.?


I like them a lot with one big caveat and why I am swapping them out for Optimus ones...they do not form an airtight seal at the top.


----------



## Shawnb99

Single 8.5" Reservoir to Florida UPS® Ground at $22.30 USD, add a second and it jumps to $51.68 USD. I know prices have increased lately but damn that's excessive.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

straha20 said:


> I have not done it yet. Waiting until a maintenance time, but the areas circled in green where the thermal pad sticks out through the cutouts in the PCB is what I plan on trimming with an x-acto knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plan on just leaving the backplate mounted, and cutting along the pcb cutouts.


ahh its the cut outs, didn't think of that. I'll definitely be trimming with my xacto.


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> I like them a lot with one big caveat and why I am swapping them out for Optimus ones...they do not form an airtight seal at the top.


The blemish ones are nice deal. I would buy if they supported d5 nexts


----------



## Phroz3

evilbob2200 said:


> anyone figure out teh thermal pad thickness for the ftw3 block? wanted to pick up some spares.


According to the optimus website, .5mm in the front, 3mm in the back


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> The blemish ones are nice deal. I would buy if they supported d5 nexts


Yeah same. The should also copy Aquacomuter and stick a filter at the bottom of the reservoir


----------



## Krisztias

asdf893 said:


> alphacool temps are consistently 10c above optimus. Of course their block costs less than half and is available quickly from performance-PC's in the US  But is the 10C real or is that just a result of it being at the "end" of this parallel portion.


My 3080FE with the Alphacool block is +8°C warmer than my water...


----------



## evilbob2200

Phroz3 said:


> According to the optimus website, .5mm in the front, 3mm in the back


oooooo nice


----------



## ksc

ComplexPepper said:


> optimus is ghosting me
> 
> ordered months ago and havent gotten shipping, why is optimus taking more orders???????
> 
> do i need to pursue chargeback with my bank?


Ditto. Ordered 20 November and I can't get a response via e-mail. I think I'd like to just get a refund at this point. Somebody else can get the block. Will request via e-mail, please respond this time Optimus!


----------



## Phroz3

ksc said:


> Ditto. Ordered 20 November and I can't get a response via e-mail. I think I'd like to just get a refund at this point. Somebody else can get the block. Will request via e-mail, please respond this time Optimus!


Gotta do what you gotta do. There are more options out there now. I do appreciate moving slightly ahead in line too lol


----------



## LiquidHaus

My Kingpin awaits Optimus.


----------



## JustinThyme

straha20 said:


> I like them a lot with one big caveat and why I am swapping them out for Optimus ones...they do not form an airtight seal at the top.


Are you missing the Oring? I have a 200mm model with a D5 Next in the bottom that seals tight as a drum. So much so that when draining I have to make sure that the top is not only opened, it’s off or the suction around the seal makes it difficult to pull up. With it on after fills and I tilt the case on its back it’s a solid seal. Perhaps you have a defective one and should check into getting it replaced. 

Also have a 150 on my MORA I liked them so much. Not to mention the endless possibilities for configuration.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> My Kingpin awaits Optimus.


You got that case.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Are you missing the Oring? I have a 200mm model with a D5 Next in the bottom that seals tight as a drum. So much so that when draining I have to make sure that the top is not only opened, it’s off or the suction around the seal makes it difficult to pull up. With it on after fills and I tilt the case on its back it’s a solid seal. Perhaps you have a defective one and should check into getting it replaced.
> 
> Also have a 150 on my MORA I liked them so much. Not to mention the endless possibilities for configuration.


The heatkiller ones are good (have one on my mo-ra3 too) but the aquacomputer even better. Me and shawnb99 prefer aquacomputer ultitube, its lot easier to take apart the ultitube. No need to use the allen key to unscrew things


----------



## jincuteguy

ksc said:


> Ditto. Ordered 20 November and I can't get a response via e-mail. I think I'd like to just get a refund at this point. Somebody else can get the block. Will request via e-mail, please respond this time Optimus!


On their website, they said Items In-Stock that are order Now will be ship within 1-2 weeks. So I don't know what you guys talking about


----------



## JustinThyme

jincuteguy said:


> On their website, they said Items In-Stock that are order Now will be ship within 1-2 weeks. So I don't know what you guys talking about


The marketing guy that writes those updates on the web is a French model.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> The heatkiller ones are good (have one on my mo-ra3 too) but the aquacomputer even better. Me and shawnb99 prefer aquacomputer ultitube, its lot easier to take apart the ultitube. No need to use the allen key to unscrew things


I considered the aquacomputer, not like I don’t have enough of their gear too. The aesthetics just clash with my build and the mounting options not as versatile. I don’t mind pulling a few screws, takes like 15 seconds per end with a power driver. 

I like the fact the the HK is squared, that’s what initially drawed me to it. Not like I don’t have 50 round reservoirs on the shelf in my basement.


----------



## JustinThyme

It just works, looks like it was made to sit here. I originally started with the res and plain bottom and bought the D5 bottom later. Just like the CaseLabs cases.....everything is extra. Good and bad at the same time but I understand you can provide every single mounting option in the box. I did the stand at first then when I added the bottom got the standard mount and 120mm rad mounting brackets as well as their filter with the valves built in and some other do dads just to fill up a flat rate shipping box to make it worthwhile to order direct. Only place that you can buy it all and they have it all. Looked at multiple sites in the US and no one had the standard mounts or the 120 fan mounts and the rest would be spread out as no one had all of the rest. Optimus res looks like a nice res, I’d never buy it with the pump they offer and it just doesn’t go with my build. That one I can only picture in an all white build.


----------



## straha20

This is interesting over on Reddit...


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/ljom16

In particular, the original post...

"This is 1130 W. National in Addison, IL. I tracked it down and went there Weds. since I live in a neighboring burb. It is the home of Automatic Swiss Corp. It is also the home address of Optimus Water Cooling. Dad owns ASC...and Optimus or is at least "backing" Son, Chris in his PC cooling venture. I met both of them Weds. Barraged them with questions...Their answer was they are trying to "ramp up quickly"...but here is what YOU care about...When they do a "batch"...apparently that is "40 cards/ blocks" for GPUs...40 at a time! Optimus operates out of the back corner of "Dads ASC" facility... I don't think Dad "gets it" yet..what "ramp up " has to really mean for Optimus to take off. Oh and the newer batches of GPU water blocks will have less acrylic, cutting down on weight... "


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> This is interesting over on Reddit...
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/ljom16
> 
> In particular, the original post...
> 
> "This is 1130 W. National in Addison, IL. I tracked it down and went there Weds. since I live in a neighboring burb. It is the home of Automatic Swiss Corp. It is also the home address of Optimus Water Cooling. Dad owns ASC...and Optimus or is at least "backing" Son, Chris in his PC cooling venture. I met both of them Weds. Barraged them with questions...Their answer was they are trying to "ramp up quickly"...but here is what YOU care about...When they do a "batch"...apparently that is "40 cards/ blocks" for GPUs...40 at a time! Optimus operates out of the back corner of "Dads ASC" facility... I don't think Dad "gets it" yet..what "ramp up " has to really mean for Optimus to take off. Oh and the newer batches of GPU water blocks will have less acrylic, cutting down on weight... "


That's creepy. Hope the acrylic is still mighty thick. One of the reasons I went with them.


----------



## jincuteguy

JustinThyme said:


> The marketing guy that writes those updates on the web is a French model.


Damn if everything you guys said is true, then i think I'm ***ed, cause I just ordered a cpu block + reservoir combo 4 days ago.


----------



## Phroz3

jincuteguy said:


> Damn if everything you guys said is true, then i think I'm ***ed, cause I just ordered a cpu block + reservoir combo 4 days ago.


Just be patient and you'll be fine.


----------



## Section31

jincuteguy said:


> Damn if everything you guys said is true, then i think I'm ***ed, cause I just ordered a cpu block + reservoir combo 4 days ago.


It might an benefit in these times. It means your operating costs are much lower thus you can make money. Only issue is meeting demand.

This is very common theme in asia. Well off asian families fund and support there children own business. Sometimes its buying franchises for them to run and other times it involves financial and other financial like services.


----------



## evilbob2200

Phroz3 said:


> That's creepy. Hope the acrylic is still mighty thick. One of the reasons I went with them.


thats creep as hell.... also I think doing that is like against reddit TOS


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys,

SHIPPING TIMES: Certain parts are shipping faster than others, but everything is shipping faster now. Many of the changes we've made behind the scenes won't really be visible to you guys, until product timing improves. But we know the issues and are working hard to improve production/timing. 

FTW3 BACK THERMAL PAD: Go ahead and cut around the slots, won't harm anything. And then you have extra Fuji pads. We already built the process for the back thermal pad before we saw EVGA's design. We could go back and revise the thermal pad cutting process, but...we'd rather move forward and make Kingpins and more of everything.

ACRYLIC: The acrylic thickness/weight question is in regards to this gen vs previous designs, not changes to the FTW. This gen we have massive amount of copper with the flow paths in the copper, not in the acrylic (except for the small little top/bottom slots) like other designs. Our motto is Performance First (And Quality Also First), so nothing to cut costs. Alas, copper weighs vastly more than acrylic, thus why the block is so heavy. 

BELOW: The FTW3 instructions included in the box.


----------



## JustinThyme

It’s not only this market. About the only thing that has a steady roll out is the auto industry and they put out more than they can sell. I can remember back in the day with furniture you walked in and said I want this and it’s delivered the next day. Now you walk in and say I want this and its 6-8 weeks for delivery. The only time with PC parts that you can be sure of it the good retailers like PPCs. They say it’s in stock and it ships the next day amd shipping depends on what you pay for. I’ve found with them the free shipping is the same speed as the 1st level upgrade. Overnight is just too expensive. Freakin $60 to ship is sometimes more than what you ordered. ModMy Mods drop ships. Cablemods uses a shipping service to avoid tariffs. Last order them them took well over a month as it came from China VIA a service in UAE. If you dont need custom lengths and want it faster places like PPCs carries stock sets which gets most people what they need with some left over. I needed some longer and wanted a different color scheme so ordered by the cable.


----------



## Phroz3

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> SHIPPING TIMES: Certain parts are shipping faster than others, but everything is shipping faster now. Many of the changes we've made behind the scenes won't really be visible to you guys, until product timing improves. But we know the issues and are working hard to improve production/timing.
> 
> FTW3 BACK THERMAL PAD: Go ahead and cut around the slots, won't harm anything. And then you have extra Fuji pads. We already built the process for the back thermal pad before we saw EVGA's design. We could go back and revise the thermal pad cutting process, but...we'd rather move forward and make Kingpins and more of everything.
> 
> ACRYLIC: The acrylic thickness/weight question is in regards to this gen vs previous designs, not changes to the FTW. This gen we have massive amount of copper with the flow paths in the copper, not in the acrylic (except for the small little top/bottom slots) like other designs. Our motto is Performance First (And Quality Also First), so nothing to cut costs. Alas, copper weighs vastly more than acrylic, thus why the block is so heavy.
> 
> BELOW: The FTW3 instructions included in the box.
> 
> View attachment 2478895
> 
> 
> View attachment 2478896


Thanks for the information/update. We appreciate it. Ignore the wierdo on reddit. Like stated previously, it likely is against their TOS. I would look into it if I were you and see if you can have it removed.


----------



## JustinThyme

Phroz3 said:


> Thanks for the information/update. We appreciate it. Ignore the wierdo on reddit. Like stated previously, it likely is against their TOS. I would look into it if I were you and see if you can have it removed.


Ive quit with Reddit completely, worst source of information on the web. If Im looking for something and a Reddit link comes up I ignore it.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> SHIPPING TIMES: Certain parts are shipping faster than others, but everything is shipping faster now. Many of the changes we've made behind the scenes won't really be visible to you guys, until product timing improves. But we know the issues and are working hard to improve production/timing.
> 
> FTW3 BACK THERMAL PAD: Go ahead and cut around the slots, won't harm anything. And then you have extra Fuji pads. We already built the process for the back thermal pad before we saw EVGA's design. We could go back and revise the thermal pad cutting process, but...we'd rather move forward and make Kingpins and more of everything.
> 
> ACRYLIC: The acrylic thickness/weight question is in regards to this gen vs previous designs, not changes to the FTW. This gen we have massive amount of copper with the flow paths in the copper, not in the acrylic (except for the small little top/bottom slots) like other designs. Our motto is Performance First (And Quality Also First), so nothing to cut costs. Alas, copper weighs vastly more than acrylic, thus why the block is so heavy.
> 
> BELOW: The FTW3 instructions included in the box.
> 
> View attachment 2478895
> 
> 
> View attachment 2478896


Eagerly awaiting your water block. Keep on innovating. Will be interesting what products you come out for LGA1700/Am5 socket, the fan mounted reservoir in development and other future products


----------



## Section31

evilbob2200 said:


> thats creep as hell.... also I think doing that is like against reddit TOS


It probably is. I kind of like those companies, pet projects within an larger company. Pet projects are usually very well engineered products and for enuthiast well worth the money.


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> It probably is. I kind of like those companies, pet projects within an larger company. Pet projects are usually very well engineered products. and for enuthiast well worth the money.


Which seems to be true considering how strict they are on QC and what they call a blemish.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Ive quit with Reddit completely, worst source of information on the web. If Im looking for something and a Reddit link comes up I ignore it.


Reddit is stupid. The whole watercooling section has lot of cringe worthy posts and builds


----------



## jincuteguy

Phroz3 said:


> Just be patient and you'll be fine.


Well I don't have the patient for 2 - 3 months of waiting. The cpu + reservoir is like $500. I would rather getting a EK cpu block and Singulatiry Computer Protium Reservoir. I thought Optimus is only 2 weeks of waiting that's why I ordered them.


----------



## JustinThyme

jincuteguy said:


> Well I don't have the patient for 2 - 3 months of waiting. The cpu + reservoir is like $500. I would rather getting a EK cpu block and Singulatiry Computer Protium Reservoir. I thought Optimus is only 2 weeks of waiting that's why I ordered them.


Yeah thats a disappointment if you were expecting 2 weeks. The singularity stuff is a long trip from down under unless you find a US retailer with the goods. Very expensive.


----------



## JustinThyme

Biggu said:


> Which seems to be true considering how strict they are on QC and what they call a blemish.


That I am still waiting to find out. They offered up the Signature flat block only blem and said contact them here. I posted and sent a PM and got nothing. Been about 2 weeks now.


----------



## JustinThyme

evilbob2200 said:


> thats creep as hell.... also I think doing that is like against reddit TOS


I dont think reddit has a TOS, at least Ive not seen it or agreed to one, Not like its moderated anyhow. It started out decent enough but now full of younger people trolling more than anything else.


----------



## evilbob2200

JustinThyme said:


> I dont think reddit has a TOS, at least Ive not seen it or agreed to one, Not like its moderated anyhow. It started out decent enough but now full of younger people trolling more than anything else.


they have rules against sharing personal info and harassment this prob can fall under either of those


----------



## Section31

evilbob2200 said:


> they have rules against sharing personal info and harassment this prob can fall under either of those


Well some of us long suspected optimus was pet project kind of thing. Lot of evidence pointed to it being the case. This guy just went too far, researching the address and finding out parent company is all based on public information. Visiting part is too much.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Well some of us long suspected optimus was pet project kind of thing. Lot of evidence pointed to it being the case. This guy just went too far, researching the address and finding out parent company is all based on public information. Visiting part is too much.


Exactly, especially during the pandemic.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Well some of us long suspected optimus was pet project kind of thing. Lot of evidence pointed to it being the case. This guy just went too far, researching the address and finding out parent company is all based on public information. Visiting part is too much.


I would of done the same if I was local. Sharing it all via reddit and giving out the info is where they went wrong. Not sure if it was an attempt to shame them or make them look bad but that part could of been left out. I'd of visited as well.

Make the communication issues more understandable


----------



## Sir Beregond

Does Optimus send confirmation emails or anything? Because I ordered an AM4 block when it was posted that they were back in stock and have not seen any email confirmations or anything like that.


----------



## Swiso

Sir Beregond said:


> Does Optimus send confirmation emails or anything? Because I ordered an AM4 block when it was posted that they were back in stock and have not seen any email confirmations or anything like that.


Yes, when order is ready to ship, they will notify you.. at least that was the case for my TR4 block.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Swiso said:


> Yes, when order is ready to ship, they will notify you.. at least that was the case for my TR4 block.


OK, so just when it's ready to ship? Ok, thanks.


----------



## straha20

Sir Beregond said:


> OK, so just when it's ready to ship? Ok, thanks.


I have received an order confirmation email on every order I have placed, as soon as I placed it.


----------



## Swiso

Sir Beregond said:


> OK, so just when it's ready to ship? Ok, thanks.


Yes, assuming you got the email confirming the order already..


----------



## Swiso

straha20 said:


> I have received an order confirmation email on every order I have placed, as soon as I placed it.


Exactly, same here.


----------



## Swiso

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> SHIPPING TIMES: Certain parts are shipping faster than others, but everything is shipping faster now. Many of the changes we've made behind the scenes won't really be visible to you guys, until product timing improves. But we know the issues and are working hard to improve production/timing.
> 
> FTW3 BACK THERMAL PAD: Go ahead and cut around the slots, won't harm anything. And then you have extra Fuji pads. We already built the process for the back thermal pad before we saw EVGA's design. We could go back and revise the thermal pad cutting process, but...we'd rather move forward and make Kingpins and more of everything.
> 
> ACRYLIC: The acrylic thickness/weight question is in regards to this gen vs previous designs, not changes to the FTW. This gen we have massive amount of copper with the flow paths in the copper, not in the acrylic (except for the small little top/bottom slots) like other designs. Our motto is Performance First (And Quality Also First), so nothing to cut costs. Alas, copper weighs vastly more than acrylic, thus why the block is so heavy.
> 
> BELOW: The FTW3 instructions included in the box.
> 
> View attachment 2478895
> 
> 
> View attachment 2478896


Thanks for the instructions !


----------



## Wihglah

I had mine 4 days after I got the shipping notification. In the UK.


----------



## Sir Beregond

straha20 said:


> I have received an order confirmation email on every order I have placed, as soon as I placed it.


Hmm...well I have not which is strange. I'll check my spam folders again just in-case, but not seeing anything..

Was ordered right after they said it was back in stock. Don't have any sort of email confirmation. I should probably go see if card was charged yet.

EDIT: Nevermind, I am being dumb. It went to some weird obscure folder in my inbox for some reason. All is good, order confirmed on 2/12.


----------



## Swiso

Sir Beregond said:


> Hmm...well I have not which is strange. I'll check my spam folders again just in-case, but not seeing anything..
> 
> Was ordered right after they said it was back in stock. Don't have any sort of email confirmation. I should probably go see if card was charged yet.
> 
> EDIT: Nevermind, I am being dumb. It went to some weird obscure folder in my inbox for some reason. All is good, order confirmed on 2/12.


You can also check the status of your order if you log-in to your account on Optimus site..


----------



## evilbob2200

Shawnb99 said:


> I would of done the same if I was local. Sharing it all via reddit and giving out the info is where they went wrong. Not sure if it was an attempt to shame them or make them look bad but that part could of been left out. I'd of visited as well.
> 
> Make the communication issues more understandable


especially names and such of the people running it as well


----------



## Phroz3

Sir Beregond said:


> Does Optimus send confirmation emails or anything? Because I ordered an AM4 block when it was posted that they were back in stock and have not seen any email confirmations or anything like that.


Check spam. That's where mine went.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> OK, so just when it's ready to ship? Ok, thanks.


Welcome to the club. Never figured you would go optimus


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Welcome to the club. Never figured you would go optimus


Well I don't want EK crap and was looking for nickel that holds up. Hope this is the answer.


----------



## Phroz3

Sir Beregond said:


> Well I don't want EK crap and was looking for nickel that holds up. Hope this is the answer.


Should be in good hands with Optimus and their nickel process. Much thicker than EK. Optimus even said you can clean theirs with sandpaper if needed ( I wouldn't try though lol).


----------



## straha20

Just got my shipping notification for Order 3555, placed on Feb 2 for two blemish 8.5 inch reservoirs.


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> Just got my shipping notification for Order 3555, placed on Feb 2 for two blemish 8.5 inch reservoirs.


Basically order numbers are unreliable again. How many Blemish, CPU Blocks and Reservoir between batch 2 and batch 3 of blocks


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Basically order numbers are unreliable again. How many Blemish, CPU Blocks and Reservoir between batch 2 and batch 3 of blocks


Approx 370. From about 3100 to 3470


----------



## Sir Beregond

Phroz3 said:


> Should be in good hands with Optimus and their nickel process. Much thicker than EK. Optimus even said you can clean theirs with sandpaper if needed ( I wouldn't try though lol).


Thanks that's what I had read. Also picked up a Blitz kit for the new build (I've never used these in previous builds) so hoping this solves some problems I had with last build.


----------



## rayuma

Not sure why they keep that announcement on the website that says in stock items will ship within 1-2 weeks. I placed an order on January 21 for something in stock and it hasn't shipped. Optimus isn't responding to any emails sent directly or via the website.


----------



## Keith Myers

Keep banging on them. Ready-to-ship orders seem to fall through the cracks lately. Order on 12/28 finally acknowledged 1/28. Received 2/1.


----------



## ocnd

@Optimus WC , would it be possible to know when would the waterblock arrive if one was to order it on next Friday?
Would love to get optimus, but I'm concerned with prior experiences of wait time. Thus, what is current wait time from order till package is shipped?
Thank you


----------



## Swiso

ocnd said:


> @Optimus WC , would it be possible to know when would the waterblock arrive if one was to order it on next Friday?
> Would love to get optimus, but I'm concerned with prior experiences of wait time. Thus, what is current wait time from order till package is shipped?
> Thank you


----------



## ocnd

@Swiso . there are multiple conflicting sources on that. This website information hasn't been updated in weeks and their twitter last mentioned


> More FTW3 GPU and AM4 CPU blocks available today, we're working to keep production on schedule with a rough 4 week turnaround for this batch. Apologies about last week's lack of update, we didn't want to overcommit. We're now on track for fri updates



for _prior_ batch. Source:

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1360272640796205059 as of Feb 12.

thus, as much as site could be useful, it's outdated.


----------



## ocnd

Even more concerningly, if you believe that information on the website about 2 weeks wait time was recently correct, than wait times recently grew from 2 weeks to 4 weeks. Thus my question about reasonable expectation for next batch is even more important.


----------



## Swiso

ocnd said:


> @Swiso . there are multiple conflicting sources on that. This website information hasn't been updated in weeks and their twitter last mentioned
> 
> 
> 
> for _prior_ batch. Source:
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1360272640796205059 as of Feb 12.
> 
> thus, as much as site could be useful, it's outdated.


I guess, but I could be wrong, that the 4 weeks is for the GPU FTW3 Blocks....


----------



## Swiso

ocnd said:


> Even more concerningly, if you believe that information on the website about 2 weeks wait time was recently correct, than wait times recently grew from 2 weeks to 4 weeks. Thus my question about reasonable expectation for next batch is even more important.


Here they mention specifically a turn around of about three weeks before shipping this type of blocks..








Absolute GPU Block - FTW3 3080, 3080 Ti, 3090


Optimus Absolute GPU Block designed for the EVGA FTW3 3080/3080Ti/3090 The Absolute block is our all-out performance design, created to achieve maximum cooling on all areas of the new NVIDIA RTX 3080 and 3090 FTW3 cards from EVGA. The FTW3 GPUs pull huge amounts of power and require top cooling...




optimuspc.com


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Got my ftw3 blocked and into the loop over the weekend. Seeing about a 9-10C temp difference on the core vs water temp while playing CP2077 w/500w bios. I did not get a good mount when I installed it and it really should have been redone. Anyone know what size the thermal pads for mem/mosfets/vrms are? Guessing .5mm?

Performance is impressive, never power throttles anymore at 1.1v in games. Haven't quite found the upper limits of the card yet and have not benched it. Currently plays CP2077 at 2130mhz with DLSS/RT on. I could barely keep it above 2000mhz on air.

Pics of it installed. This will never be a photogenic build, camera struggles with UV. Block looks fantastic lit up with the UV leds, wish I could get it to show properly in the pics. The white gasket fluoresces and looks great. Remainder of the build is a mess, wiring is not done and entire build will be hard tube soon. Will be as close to a full optimus build as possible once finished with 12" res/pump, foundation block, ftw3 block(waiting on kingpin block and will swap the ftw3 out), and 14mm hardline fittings. Please make angled fittings and extensions so I can toss my barrow ones.


----------



## Phroz3

Edge0fsanity said:


> Got my ftw3 blocked and into the loop over the weekend. Seeing about a 9-10C temp difference on the core vs water temp while playing CP2077 w/500w bios. I did not get a good mount when I installed it and it really should have been redone. Anyone know what size the thermal pads for mem/mosfets/vrms are? Guessing .5mm?
> 
> Performance is impressive, never power throttles anymore at 1.1v in games. Haven't quite found the upper limits of the card yet and have not benched it. Currently plays CP2077 at 2130mhz with DLSS/RT on. I could barely keep it above 2000mhz on air.
> 
> Pics of it installed. This will never be a photogenic build, camera struggles with UV. Block looks fantastic lit up with the UV leds, wish I could get it to show properly in the pics. The white gasket fluoresces and looks great. Remainder of the build is a mess, wiring is not done and entire build will be hard tube soon. Will be as close to a full optimus build as possible once finished with 12" res/pump, foundation block, ftw3 block(waiting on kingpin block and will swap the ftw3 out), and 14mm hardline fittings. Please make angled fittings and extensions so I can toss my barrow ones.
> 
> View attachment 2479079


What are you using to hold the led onto the acrylic?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Phroz3 said:


> What are you using to hold the led onto the acrylic?


3m foam double sided tape cut into small squares that fit in between the leds. Amazon.com: 3M Double Coated Urethane Foam Tape 4032, 1" x 5 yards, Indoor Mounting, Bonding, and Attaching: Industrial & Scientific


----------



## Phroz3

Edge0fsanity said:


> 3m foam double sided tape cut into small squares that fit in between the leds. Amazon.com: 3M Double Coated Urethane Foam Tape 4032, 1" x 5 yards, Indoor Mounting, Bonding, and Attaching: Industrial & Scientific


I've been thinking of different ways to hold a strip on there once mine gets here. I am going to try these little silicone RGB strip holders


Amazon.com


Was planning to just silicone 4-5 of them onto the acrylic.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys:

LEDS: People have had success with double sided clear VHB tape. 

TIMING OF ORDERS: Different products take different amounts of time to make, and we're working on streamlining certain operations so it all goes faster. CPU blocks and the like are typically faster. GPUs are a beast to make (since they are beastly cards) so we're trying to play it safer now. Our weekly drops are smaller quantity than we're producing, so we can catch up and then go into production on KPE and Strix. And we're saying 4 weeks out, though we aim to have it sooner. 

Reservoirs have taken longer than we'd like due to the nature of the cast acrylic reservoir tubes. The cast tubes are super strong, but hard to get perfect and sourcing takes longer than other parts. 

Also, new machinery arrived yesterday, it'll take a few weeks to set up then production will be even faster. As always, though, sometimes our partners mess stuff up -- nickel plating that doesn't look right or anodized parts that don't come out perfect. Sometimes it's a quick fix, sometimes it's weeks. 

So it's always hard to give an exact ETA since we want every block that leaves the factory looking great. There are many different parts that need different levels of finishing, and the GPUs are especially complex and challenging, thus why we're pushing the ETA out, just to manage expectations if/when something causes a delay.


----------



## Shawnb99

Just saying I'm fine if you wanna stop production to work on designing the KPE block quicker...


----------



## Phroz3

Shawnb99 said:


> Just saying I'm fine if you wanna stop production to work on designing the KPE block quicker...


How dare you!!! lol


----------



## Shawnb99

Phroz3 said:


> How dare you!!! lol


----------



## Optimus WC

Speaking of KPE, how important is it to have access to the NV Link? Unlike the FTW, the KP is low rider height. If we nix the NV Link, the block will come to life faster.


----------



## Shawnb99

Scrap it. If there's demand you could always look at making one with access. SLI is dead.


----------



## Phroz3

Shawnb99 said:


> Scrap it. If there's demand you could always look at making one with access. SLI is dead.


Except for benchmarking and world records and what not. Guess at that point LN2 would be a thing.


----------



## sakete

Hey @Optimus WC, any update on my FTW3 block? Last week you said it would ship last week. It's been a week since that email.


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> What are you using to hold the led onto the acrylic?


Here is what I used on mine...



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7EWRO/




















With this high density strip...



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088FKZWDQ



Took 41 LEDS end to end on the block. The VHB tape covers the entire length, so it is quite firmly in place and will not droop or sag.


----------



## Shawnb99

Phroz3 said:


> Except for benchmarking and world records and what not. Guess at that point LN2 would be a thing.


Yeah at that point I'd hope they would be going LN2. If SLI was worth it I'd consider it but I'd rather have the block


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> Here is what I used on mine...
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7EWRO/


I saw that before but that stuff seems like it would be incredibly difficult to remove if I wanted to. I added it to my amazon shopping list just in case my little silicone holders don't work.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Optimus WC said:


> Speaking of KPE, how important is it to have access to the NV Link? Unlike the FTW, the KP is low rider height. If we nix the NV Link, the block will come to life faster.
> 
> View attachment 2479093


SLI is dead, if it means getting the block out faster I say drop it.


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> I saw that before but that stuff seems like it would be incredibly difficult to remove if I wanted to. I added it to my amazon shopping list just in case my little silicone holders don't work.


It holds very well, but peels back off of the block without leaving any residue. Kind of like that sticky stuff used to keep junk mail closed, or to stick credit cards to paper.


----------



## onMute

Edge0fsanity said:


> SLI is dead, if it means getting the block out faster I say drop it.


Agreed


----------



## Optimus WC

BTW, this stuff is awesome, haven't tested it on LEDs specifically 



https://www.amazon.com/Double-Sided-Tape-Heavy-Duty/dp/B07WWX5Q92/


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> BTW, this stuff is awesome, haven't tested it on LEDs specifically
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Double-Sided-Tape-Heavy-Duty/dp/B07WWX5Q92/


The half inch width is what you want for both the block and LED strip perfect fit.


----------



## Phroz3

Optimus WC said:


> BTW, this stuff is awesome, haven't tested it on LEDs specifically
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Double-Sided-Tape-Heavy-Duty/dp/B07WWX5Q92/


That stuff looks great! Thanks


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> The half inch width is what you want for both the block and LED strip perfect fit.


I ended up finding some 7mm wide RGB strip from China. Looks similar to the stuff you bought just skinnier board. Still 144 bulbs per m


----------



## LiquidHaus

+1 for dropping the NVlink access for the KPE block. I am curious as to how it'd speed up the process of eliminating access though. More material covering it up would also mean more cost with my line of thinking, unless I'm missing something here. 

Either way doesn't matter. I will need a KPE block stat.


----------



## Phroz3

LiquidHaus said:


> +1 for dropping the NVlink access for the KPE block. I am curious as to how it'd speed up the process of eliminating access though. More material covering it up would also mean more cost with my line of thinking, unless I'm missing something here.
> 
> Either way doesn't matter. I will need a KPE block stat.


I think it is just because of the odd shape. Would take more time to remove the material where the NVlink connector is. If they left the block as a square it'd cover up the connector.


----------



## Optimus WC

LiquidHaus said:


> +1 for dropping the NVlink access for the KPE block. I am curious as to how it'd speed up the process of eliminating access though. More material covering it up would also mean more cost with my line of thinking, unless I'm missing something here.
> 
> Either way doesn't matter. I will need a KPE block stat.


The KPE is close to the FTW PCB layout. If we had to design around the link, it'd be a huge PITA


----------



## LiquidHaus

Optimus WC said:


> The KPE is close to the FTW PCB layout. If we had to design around the link, it'd be a huge PITA


Whatever makes it easier, my friends! I'm just grateful you're actually making a block for the KP.


----------



## sakete

Ok, finally I got my shipping notification! Looks like it should ship out tomorrow.


----------



## Phroz3

sakete said:


> Ok, finally I got my shipping notification! Looks like it should ship out tomorrow.


Awesome! Your order # in the 3000s?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> Speaking of KPE, how important is it to have access to the NV Link? Unlike the FTW, the KP is low rider height. If we nix the NV Link, the block will come to life faster.
> 
> View attachment 2479093


KPE is one card per customer right now anyway. So hard to get more than 1. SLI is also dead. I ran SLI titans in previous generations and I would if I could get extra performance out of it, but it's non-existent right now. So SLI fingers aren't needed. One question I do have though...what happens to the OLED display? Is that being nixed completely? Or will there be some kind of mount point for it still? I know the Hydrocopper model from EVGA/Asetek will keep the display. It's not really a crucial part of the card, but I'd think slightly more important than the NVLink connector for some.



LiquidHaus said:


> +1 for dropping the NVlink access for the KPE block. I am curious as to how it'd speed up the process of eliminating access though. More material covering it up would also mean more cost with my line of thinking, unless I'm missing something here.
> 
> Either way doesn't matter. I will need a KPE block stat.


The material is being used regardless. They start with a full block and cut out portions of it. If they don't have to cut it out, it makes the process a lot simpler.


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> KPE is one card per customer right now anyway. So hard to get more than 1. SLI is also dead. I ran SLI titans in previous generations and I would if I could get extra performance out of it, but it's non-existent right now. So SLI fingers aren't needed. One question I do have though...what happens to the OLED display? Is that being nixed completely? Or will there be some kind of mount point for it still? I know the Hydrocopper model from EVGA/Asetek will keep the display. It's not really a crucial part of the card, but I'd think slightly more important than the NVLink connector for some.
> 
> The material is being used regardless. They start with a full block and cut out portions of it. If they don't have to cut it out, it makes the process a lot simpler.


Yes, we'll have the OLED on there


----------



## onMute

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, we'll have the OLED on there


Nice! When can we expect it? 😊


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> Awesome! Your order # in the 3000s?


His order is free block lol. Hes the guy who provided the xc3 sample


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> His order is free block lol. Hes the guy who provided the xc3 sample


Ohhh


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> Ohhh


Optimus has the luck of having ocn users provide them cards to do blocks on. Thats why xc3/ftw3 are among first cards available.


----------



## sakete

Phroz3 said:


> Ohhh


Yes, and I had asked them to switch it to a FTW3 block, as I was able to obtain that card as well. Have sold my XC3 since then. And I'm glad I did, as it looks like XC3 is probably at least a few more months out before that gets released.

Now I can finally wrap up my build and not touch it for at least a couple years. Next upgrade will either be AM5 or whatever Intel has on offer. I'm going to skip Zen 3, just not worth the upgrade since I already have Zen 2.

Though I would love, LOVE, having a really good large dual chamber case. Something like the Thermaltake W200, but then better quality. Still hoping Lian Li comes with an ultra over the top huge case for watercooling enthusiasts where I can fit 5000 radiators, as they seem to be the only ones left to still make high quality cases. Phanteks (my current case) is so so.


----------



## Phroz3

sakete said:


> Yes, and I had asked them to switch it to a FTW3 block, as I was able to obtain that card as well. Have sold my XC3 since then. And I'm glad I did, as it looks like XC3 is probably at least a few more months out before that gets released.
> 
> Now I can finally wrap up my build and not touch it for at least a couple years. Next upgrade will either be AM5 or whatever Intel has on offer. I'm going to skip Zen 3, just not worth the upgrade since I already have Zen 2.


Good move on getting the FTW3 block. The XC3 cards seems to have went stagnant with EVGA at this time anyways. I am going for the Zen 3 (5900x) but I am upgrading from Zen 1 refresh (2700x). Should be a large improvement.


----------



## KedarWolf

What temps are people getting on the RAM with the Optimus block and backplate and the 1000w BIOS.

I ask because the RAM is double sided and on the back of the card as well. Does the thick Optimus backplate cool it well.

I'm trying to figure out of I should wait until EKWB comes out with the active backplate for the Strix OC and go with that. Or go Optimus. :/

Edit: And yes, I know Optimus doesn't have a block for the Strix but they said they are working on it. And it might take a couple of months for my Strix OC pre-order to actually arrive.


----------



## Phroz3

KedarWolf said:


> What temps are people getting on the RAM with the Optimus block and backplate and the 1000w BIOS.
> 
> I ask because the RAM is double sided and on the back of the card as well. Does the thick Optimus backplate cool it well.
> 
> I'm trying to figure out of I should wait until EKWB comes out with the active backplate for the Strix OC and go with that. Or go Optimus. :/


Wondering the same. I was planning to go with EK originally because of the active backplate but they kept pushing back the date of my order and optimus released some blocks on the 29th so here I am lol. The optimus backplate is beefy and the entire thing is covered by a fuji poly thermal pad. I would imagine that there would be no issues but would like to know from others what the back ram temps look like with the optimus backplate.


----------



## JustinThyme

HyperMatrix said:


> KPE is one card per customer right now anyway. So hard to get more than 1. SLI is also dead. I ran SLI titans in previous generations and I would if I could get extra performance out of it, but it's non-existent right now. So SLI fingers aren't needed. One question I do have though...what happens to the OLED display? Is that being nixed completely? Or will there be some kind of mount point for it still? I know the Hydrocopper model from EVGA/Asetek will keep the display. It's not really a crucial part of the card, but I'd think slightly more important than the NVLink connector for some.


SLI is still at play for a lot of people. Its not been nixed, just not there unless you get the 3090. Still a lot of gaming content that supports it, Drivers still support it, only thing lacking is failure by devs to support it and a good bit of that can be forced. On the other end, and I can only speak for myself, I wouldn't buy a block that prohibited SLI bridges. Id say about 10-20% tops is gaming and the rest is using the compute power for other things. Theres been rumors that the latest driver set wont support it but here I sit with the latest and full support a long with my profiles to force SLI on titles that dont support it natively. Yes there are some that no one has found a way to force it, mostly due to lack of interest of the title.


----------



## straha20

KedarWolf said:


> What temps are people getting on the RAM with the Optimus block and backplate and the 1000w BIOS.
> 
> I ask because the RAM is double sided and on the back of the card as well. Does the thick Optimus backplate cool it well.
> 
> I'm trying to figure out of I should wait until EKWB comes out with the active backplate for the Strix OC and go with that. Or go Optimus. :/
> 
> Edit: And yes, I know Optimus doesn't have a block for the Strix but they said they are working on it. And it might take a couple of months for my Strix OC pre-order to actually arrive.


Spent four hours last night playing Red Dead Redemption 2, 4k, most settings Ultra.
3090 FTW3 +300mem, +150 clock
Ryzen 5900x, PBO off, no overclock

HWINFO averages over that four hour period...

Memory Junction - 50
GPU1 - 34
GPU2 - 42

PWR1 - 42
PWR2 - 42
PWR3 - 42
PWR4 - 46
PWR5 - 42

MEM1 - 45
MEM2 - 42
MEM3 - 40


----------



## Sir Beregond

Optimus WC said:


> View attachment 2479093


What a bizarre PCB shape.


----------



## HyperMatrix

JustinThyme said:


> SLI is still at play for a lot of people. Its not been nixed, just not there unless you get the 3090. Still a lot of gaming content that supports it, Drivers still support it, only thing lacking is failure by devs to support it and a good bit of that can be forced. On the other end, and I can only speak for myself, I wouldn't buy a block that prohibited SLI bridges. Id say about 10-20% tops is gaming and the rest is using the compute power for other things. Theres been rumors that the latest driver set wont support it but here I sit with the latest and full support a long with my profiles to force SLI on titles that dont support it natively. Yes there are some that no one has found a way to force it, mostly due to lack of interest of the title.


For professional workloads and VRAM pooling yes NVLink is important. For gaming, it's really not as many as you think. I used to run Quad-SLI so I'm not shy about going that route. But SLI as we know it is dead for gaming. Multi-gpu itself isn't dead. Nvidia killed off traditional SLI to prepare for chiplet based designs and game engines will all begin supporting that form of mgpu natively in a few years.

With regard to these blocks with the Kingpin though...I'd say the ratio of people who want access to NVLink to those who don't need it are probably at least 100:1. And if it's going to take an extra month to make the blocks available in order to accommodate NVLink access, then it may not be beneficial for them as a business, and also an inconvenience to the 99%+ of their expected customer base. Ideally it'd have been nice to have all features available, but considering the anticipated additional wait time required to implement it....I'd rather them get something out quickly. And that seems to be the consensus with everybody else. 

Personally, I'd like to be able to put a block on the Kingpin before the 4090 launches.


----------



## Chamidorix

JustinThyme said:


> SLI is still at play for a lot of people. Its not been nixed, just not there unless you get the 3090. Still a lot of gaming content that supports it, Drivers still support it, only thing lacking is failure by devs to support it and a good bit of that can be forced. On the other end, and I can only speak for myself, I wouldn't buy a block that prohibited SLI bridges. Id say about 10-20% tops is gaming and the rest is using the compute power for other things. Theres been rumors that the latest driver set wont support it but here I sit with the latest and full support a long with my profiles to force SLI on titles that dont support it natively. Yes there are some that no one has found a way to force it, mostly due to lack of interest of the title.


Sorry, I've not been following the sli crowd on guru3d 3dcenter etc lately, what is the current way to to force sli on ampere? Last I heard just overriding bits with NVinspector didn't work? Is there still a way to force AFR/AFR2 or even CFR with ampere cards, on titles that you could do so with Turing? 

Also, the few people that can afford to spend the absurdly poor price/performance ratio of two 3090s for a few supported games + ambient benchmarking would seem to include those that would pay top dollar for kingpins + custom water blocks anyways.


----------



## Sir Beregond

HyperMatrix said:


> For professional workloads and VRAM pooling yes NVLink is important. For gaming, it's really not as many as you think. I used to run Quad-SLI so I'm not shy about going that route. But SLI as we know it is dead for gaming. Multi-gpu itself isn't dead. Nvidia killed off traditional SLI to prepare for chiplet based designs and game engines will all begin supporting that form of mgpu natively in a few years.
> 
> With regard to these blocks with the Kingpin though...I'd say the ratio of people who want access to NVLink to those who don't need it are probably at least 100:1. And if it's going to take an extra month to make the blocks available in order to accommodate NVLink access, then it may not be beneficial for them as a business, and also an inconvenience to the 99%+ of their expected customer base. Ideally it'd have been nice to have all features available, but considering the anticipated additional wait time required to implement it....I'd rather them get something out quickly. And that seems to be the consensus with everybody else.
> 
> Personally, I'd like to be able to put a block on the Kingpin before the 4090 launches.


I mean what's the target demographic for KPE cards? Is it the hardcore overclockers looking to set records? Probably would want use of NVLink. That said, probably using LN2 at that point. If a gamer is buying these then I doubt NVLink matters at all.


----------



## LiquidHaus

If you were to take a look at the majority customer base for this gen of KPE cards on EVGA's forums, most of them are focused on gaming. 

Also, I have built many a rig for professional users. They do not care about watercooling, nor is it a good idea. They need enterprise-like solutions in which case an AIO is perfect for them, if not air cooled.

If you're so inclined to complain about not being able to NVlink two KPE cards despite the fact that EVGA is trying very hard to keep one card per household, simply because of a waterblock, then by all means take your two KPE's and snag Hydro Copper blocks.

They should be out later this month, too.


----------



## D-EJ915

For optimus prices it's almost like why even bother making it if you're not going to put in the effort? Yeah I got a KPE but my block is a FTW knockoff... The only reason people aren't using nvlink with it right now is EVGA is hard limiting people to 1 even if you re-enter the queue. I skipped my queue position because I don't want it sitting around not being used until blocks are out and would rather have someone use it.


----------



## jincuteguy

straha20 said:


> Here is what I used on mine...
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7EWRO/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this high density strip...
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088FKZWDQ
> 
> 
> 
> Took 41 LEDS end to end on the block. The VHB tape covers the entire length, so it is quite firmly in place and will not droop or sag.


NIce block man. Can I ask you what is the coolant that you're using? Like the brand and name? thx


----------



## jincuteguy

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys:
> 
> LEDS: People have had success with double sided clear VHB tape.
> 
> TIMING OF ORDERS: Different products take different amounts of time to make, and we're working on streamlining certain operations so it all goes faster. CPU blocks and the like are typically faster. GPUs are a beast to make (since they are beastly cards) so we're trying to play it safer now. Our weekly drops are smaller quantity than we're producing, so we can catch up and then go into production on KPE and Strix. And we're saying 4 weeks out, though we aim to have it sooner.
> 
> Reservoirs have taken longer than we'd like due to the nature of the cast acrylic reservoir tubes. The cast tubes are super strong, but hard to get perfect and sourcing takes longer than other parts.
> 
> Also, new machinery arrived yesterday, it'll take a few weeks to set up then production will be even faster. As always, though, sometimes our partners mess stuff up -- nickel plating that doesn't look right or anodized parts that don't come out perfect. Sometimes it's a quick fix, sometimes it's weeks.
> 
> So it's always hard to give an exact ETA since we want every block that leaves the factory looking great. There are many different parts that need different levels of finishing, and the GPUs are especially complex and challenging, thus why we're pushing the ETA out, just to manage expectations if/when something causes a delay.


SO I've ordered a cpu block and the Reservoir (/w D5 + pump cover + pump top + cap). Im looking at 4 weeks ?


----------



## monners

jincuteguy said:


> NIce block man. Can I ask you what is the coolant that you're using? Like the brand and name? thx


Just a guess, but that coolant looks identical to the stuff I'm using, which is EK CryoFuel Blood Red.








EK-CryoFuel Blood Red (Premix 1000mL)


The EK-CryoFuel is a new revolutionary coolant for PC liquid cooling systems. EK-CryoFuel is the most chemically stable coolant that provides enthusiasts and gamers with the best possible level of performance and thermal efficiency with emphasis on color stability. EK-CryoFuel coolant is a pure...




www.ekwb.com


----------



## Eulerian

Anyone happen to know what order number they're up to for the GPU blocks, batch 2? (I'm in the 2960's)


----------



## straha20

jincuteguy said:


> NIce block man. Can I ask you what is the coolant that you're using? Like the brand and name? thx


Coolant is distilled water, PrimoChill Liquid Utopia, and Bitspower Blood Red Dye. Total cost is less than $20 a gallon.


----------



## jincuteguy

straha20 said:


> Coolant is distilled water, PrimoChill Liquid Utopia, and Bitspower Blood Red Dye. Total cost is less than $20 a gallon.


Damn nice man. I heard Mayhem make the best premixed coolant, i'm not sure about other brands. If the PrimoChill Utopia is good, i might try it


----------



## whaleboy_4096

Eulerian said:


> Anyone happen to know what order number they're up to for the GPU blocks, batch 2? (I'm in the 2960's)


Both my CPU and GPU block shipped last week, received Monday, and installed yesterday . Order 2911


----------



## straha20

jincuteguy said:


> Damn nice man. I heard Mayhem make the best premixed coolant, i'm not sure about other brands. If the PrimoChill Utopia is good, i might try it


I have used Liquid Utopia for years now, and it has been really good. Never seen any growth or corrosion in my loops, sometimes running well over a year without any maintenance. Comes in a little 15ml bottle that I mix into a gallon of distilled water I can get at Wal Mart for less than a dollar. Never been a big fan of paying a lot for someone else's water.


----------



## tbrown7552

D-EJ915 said:


> For optimus prices it's almost like why even bother making it if you're not going to put in the effort? Yeah I got a KPE but my block is a FTW knockoff... The only reason people aren't using nvlink with it right now is EVGA is hard limiting people to 1 even if you re-enter the queue. I skipped my queue position because I don't want it sitting around not being used until blocks are out and would rather have someone use it.


I agree with this. If they are trying to just copy paste a FTW3 block with minor fitment changes then ill go with a different option. I know of two people who have KPE and planning to put optimus blocks on them.


----------



## Biggu

So I see Optimus posting about Kingpin cards, but out of curiosity what is the status of the Strix version? I remember they said it was designed but has one been made?


----------



## JustinThyme

HyperMatrix said:


> For professional workloads and VRAM pooling yes NVLink is important. For gaming, it's really not as many as you think. I used to run Quad-SLI so I'm not shy about going that route. But SLI as we know it is dead for gaming. Multi-gpu itself isn't dead. Nvidia killed off traditional SLI to prepare for chiplet based designs and game engines will all begin supporting that form of mgpu natively in a few years.
> 
> With regard to these blocks with the Kingpin though...I'd say the ratio of people who want access to NVLink to those who don't need it are probably at least 100:1. And if it's going to take an extra month to make the blocks available in order to accommodate NVLink access, then it may not be beneficial for them as a business, and also an inconvenience to the 99%+ of their expected customer base. Ideally it'd have been nice to have all features available, but considering the anticipated additional wait time required to implement it....I'd rather them get something out quickly. And that seems to be the consensus with everybody else.
> 
> Personally, I'd like to be able to put a block on the Kingpin before the 4090 launches.


If it takes an extra month to cut out a slot then these guys need to find another line of work. It’s not like a total redesign, it’s an extra slot that would take 5 minutes with a 4 minute coffee break to change the CNC program but their call.

As for SLI being dead for gaming, again that falls only on titles with little to no interest as their are many titles that support it natively and a boat load where it can be forced easily. Have a look over in the 2080Ti section for a list of forums where there are hoards of people who have shared profiles that can be forced through Nvidia inspector. Sometimes it’s as easy as adding the exe of the title that doesn’t support it natively to another profile. I’ll agree some titles it’s just not worth the effort when a single 1080 can handle it.


----------



## JustinThyme

Chamidorix said:


> Sorry, I've not been following the sli crowd on guru3d 3dcenter etc lately, what is the current way to to force sli on ampere? Last I heard just overriding bits with NVinspector didn't work? Is there still a way to force AFR/AFR2 or even CFR with ampere cards, on titles that you could do so with Turing?
> 
> Also, the few people that can afford to spend the absurdly poor price/performance ratio of two 3090s for a few supported games + ambient benchmarking would seem to include those that would pay top dollar for kingpins + custom water blocks anyways.


That I can’t answer as I skipped out on 30XX because the only thing that can beat my pair of 2080Tis is a pair of 3090s and just not worth $4K MSRP (if you can find it) to do it and another $400-$500 on blocks. I’m happy where I am and won’t be looking to replace anything for a couple of years.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Yes, and I had asked them to switch it to a FTW3 block, as I was able to obtain that card as well. Have sold my XC3 since then. And I'm glad I did, as it looks like XC3 is probably at least a few more months out before that gets released.
> 
> Now I can finally wrap up my build and not touch it for at least a couple years. Next upgrade will either be AM5 or whatever Intel has on offer. I'm going to skip Zen 3, just not worth the upgrade since I already have Zen 2.
> 
> Though I would love, LOVE, having a really good large dual chamber case. Something like the Thermaltake W200, but then better quality. Still hoping Lian Li comes with an ultra over the top huge case for watercooling enthusiasts where I can fit 5000 radiators, as they seem to be the only ones left to still make high quality cases. Phanteks (my current case) is so so.


Nice. My 5950x is in infinity delay mode. This is bad sign. I will either have to install the 5950x whenever or give up on it.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Nice. My 5950x is in infinity delay mode. This is bad sign. I will either have to install the 5950x whenever or give up on it.


Where'd you order from?


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> Where'd you order from?


B&H. If it gets into summer, i got to rethink things or go nuclear. Someone gives up there retail slot 5950x in return for 5800x


----------



## Shawnb99

I'm tired of B&H bi-weekly emails telling me stuff isn't in stock.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> B&H. If it gets into summer, i got to rethink things or go nuclear. Someone gives up there retail slot 5950x in return for 5800x


I preordered a 5900x few days ago from bltshop but from what I am reading it will likely get pushed back too.


----------



## straha20

Been running an extended Heaven run, and have noticed some oddities in my temperatures. Using HWinfo, the temps have looked great and very stable except for a few blips. The max temps on a couple of PWR sensors, a MEM sensor, and GPU2 sensor show a spike at some point up to 95c, but things like the memory junction and gpu hotspot show max temps of aroun 45c which is in line with all the other temps. I am wondering if those readings are just sensor glitches...


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> Been running an extended Heaven run, and have noticed some oddities in my temperatures. Using HWinfo, the temps have looked great and very stable except for a few blips. The max temps on a couple of PWR sensors, a MEM sensor, and GPU2 sensor show a spike at some point up to 95c, but things like the memory junction and gpu hotspot show max temps of aroun 45c which is in line with all the other temps. I am wondering if those readings are just sensor glitches...


In the gamers nexus video of our ftw cards a few months back I remember him having some similar issues during benchmarking.


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> I preordered a 5900x few days ago from bltshop but from what I am reading it will likely get pushed back too.


I got my 5900x by trading a 3080 straight up for it.


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> I got my 5900x by trading a 3080 straight up for it.


Bold move but you got what you needed.


----------



## Jon01010

Would someone who has the Optimus block be willing to take some measurements on where the center of the inlet and outlet ports are relative to the backside of the 2 Slot Bracket. I'm trying to plan my tubing runs before the block gets here so I can get any extra fittings needed ordered. Thanks


----------



## tbrown7552

straha20 said:


> I am wondering if those readings are just sensor glitches...


That is correct. EVGA has been trying to fix it in firmware


----------



## criskoe

What you guys think of the new lian li V3000 Plus they just showed off?

some pretty interesting monsters could be built in it.


----------



## sakete

criskoe said:


> What you guys think of the new lian li V3000 Plus they just showed off?
> 
> some pretty interesting monsters could be built in it.


Just saw it. Looks interesting, will need to look into this a bit more. Is this Lian Li answering my wish for an awesome watercooling case with Lian Li quality?

Here a video of a guy doing a build in it: 




And here the actual Lian Li expo (starts at V3000+ case):


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, regarding the KPE block:

If we don't do the NV Link, the design will be faster. It's not a copy/paste from FTW, it's how the flow, performance and manufacturing works is already defined and tested, etc.

The reason taking out the bridge area is tougher is because it requires a flow path change. Not as bad as the Strix (that thing is a unique card) but we'd lose the symmetrical flow path design, the left side being quite a bit smaller. Also, the caps are different (flatties vs kegs) which is just better regardless, but still something that comes into play with flow paths. It wouldn't cause a big issue overall. We'd need to prototype and test, which always takes time.

Also, unlike the HC block -- and every other block this generation that we've seen -- we really want excellent flow directly over the VRM mosfets. These cards have so much power and they really deserve the best cooling on the VRMs to hit the top numbers. The KPE makes getting water over to the mosfets a little trickier because of the location of the bridge. Again, none of this is a big deal in the grand scheme of things, but means more testing and work if we make a block that supports the bridge.

Of course, if there was a NV Link ribbon cable or riser, life would be easier


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Just saw it. Looks interesting, will need to look into this a bit more. Is this Lian Li answering my wish for an awesome watercooling case with Lian Li quality?
> 
> Here a video of a guy doing a build in it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the actual Lian Li expo (starts at V3000+ case):


Holy Nice case. I thin Lianli did good job on all the cases. That V3000 Plus is interesting.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I hear you on that NVlink ribbon cable! I would have SLI 3090 Benchmark numbers if I could successfully NVlink the FTW3 and KPE. I could line them up with PCIe 4.0 risers, but it'd be a PITA and ain't nobody got time fo dat.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> Holy Nice case. I thin Lianli did good job on all the cases. That V3000 Plus is interesting.


Yeah, looks like it should easily fit 3x 480 rads, with space for another 360 depending on how you setup the motherboard. There is this big plate they're using for mounting SSDs which is removable; removing it leaves a big rectangular hole. I really think they should add mounting points there as well, for rads or reservoirs. And it sounds like the design isn't final yet and they're open to feedback. I need to study this thing more, along with HD space (looks like default is 6 3.5" HDDs in the bottom, but not sure how that interferes with mounting a rad down there as well). But I'll likely provide some input.

And the front panel can be solid or mesh, depending on if you want silent or airflow. I'd definitely opt for mesh, as better airflow means fans can spin at lower speeds, making it essentially silent anyway.

Hmmm, maybe this would be a nice case to redo my build in later this year, as I'm overall not too happy with my Phanteks Enthoo 719. Just has bad airflow and a few questionable design decisions (for example clearance above motherboard is miniscule, super hard to work in up there).


----------



## Bart

Triple 480s with a flipped motherboard, cool!


----------



## sakete

Well, it's finally here! Now I just need to drain my loop and leak test things.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Yeah, looks like it should easily fit 3x 480 rads, with space for another 360 depending on how you setup the motherboard. There is this big plate they're using for mounting SSDs which is removable; removing it leaves a big rectangular hole. I really think they should add mounting points there as well, for rads or reservoirs. And it sounds like the design isn't final yet and they're open to feedback. I need to study this thing more, along with HD space (looks like default is 6 3.5" HDDs in the bottom, but not sure how that interferes with mounting a rad down there as well). But I'll likely provide some input.
> 
> And the front panel can be solid or mesh, depending on if you want silent or airflow. I'd definitely opt for mesh, as better airflow means fans can spin at lower speeds, making it essentially silent anyway.
> 
> Hmmm, maybe this would be a nice case to redo my build in later this year, as I'm overall not too happy with my Phanteks Enthoo 719. Just has bad airflow and a few questionable design decisions (for example clearance above motherboard is miniscule, super hard to work in up there).


its an sma8a replacement and i'm interested in it. Lets see how final product is like.


----------



## straha20

sakete said:


> Well, it's finally here! Now I just need to drain my loop and leak test things.


Didn't cut out the thermal pad through the PCB cutouts


----------



## straha20

So for those who have taken one of these blocks apart...

How difficult is it? Gaskets seal back up nicely and everything? I going to be taking mine apart here in the next couple of weeks when I swap out some of my fittings and reservoirs. I have some debris in the fins, so am going to clean that out when I have my loop down.

Looking at it, I should be able to remove the acrylic front and get to the fins without having to actually unmount the whole coldplate right? I have a really good mount right now, and don't want to unmount it.


----------



## sakete

straha20 said:


> Didn't cut out the thermal pad through the PCB cutouts


I didn't, couldn't care less  it's going under my desk where I'll never look at it.


----------



## Section31

Bart said:


> Triple 480s with a flipped motherboard, cool!


Now i am debating going Ghetto style and get two 480mm rads instead of 360mm (ignore the caselabs s8 top) incase i do decide to jump up. Saves me the expense of buying new rads at that time.


----------



## Sir Beregond

sakete said:


> Well, it's finally here! Now I just need to drain my loop and leak test things.


Aside from the thermal pads poking through, hot damn that's a sexy block.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Well, it's finally here! Now I just need to drain my loop and leak test things.


One Nice Block. I hate it when just when i am nearly 100% decided on the last part of the build (still to order), they throw an curveball options like LianLI New V3000 Plus.


----------



## m4fox90

Can we have this _not_ be the Off Topic/Gen Chat page? I hate having to read dozens of posts to find actual Optimus-related things, especially when it's posts from Optimus about shipping or stock status.


----------



## Section31

m4fox90 said:


> Can we have this _not_ be the Off Topic/Gen Chat page? I hate having to read dozens of posts to find actual Optimus-related things, especially when it's posts from Optimus about shipping or stock status.


The most reliable for Optimus is there twitter account. This never was an optimus thread, its just became one of the method to reach them. Most of us will tell you, there twitter and e-mailing there staff or contact us on there page is best way to keep up. 

I wouldn't really trust the order number as method to track as some of us have discussed. It's difficult to follow when the order number shipping are effected by what you have ordered. Like how we suspect order 3100 to 3400 is probably blemish orders so those orders don't really help anyone. Actual Stock follow there twitter, more up to date than here.


----------



## Phroz3

m4fox90 said:


> Can we have this _not_ be the Off Topic/Gen Chat page? I hate having to read dozens of posts to find actual Optimus-related things, especially when it's posts from Optimus about shipping or stock status.


You can click on the Optimus user account and view their posts FYI.


----------



## sakete

m4fox90 said:


> Can we have this _not_ be the Off Topic/Gen Chat page? I hate having to read dozens of posts to find actual Optimus-related things, especially when it's posts from Optimus about shipping or stock status.


This thread is more of a high-end watercooling slow chat, with occassional Optimus updates thrown in the mix


----------



## Eulerian

I'd really rather prefer this thread stick to Optimus waterblocks - they've specifically said that the off-topic talk makes it harder for them to come here and address things. Sometimes you need more space to discuss something than what Twitter permits.


----------



## originxt

What did I miss? Looks like sakete got his block, congrats. Anything new?


----------



## straha20

Eulerian said:


> I'd really rather prefer this thread stick to Optimus waterblocks - they've specifically said that the off-topic talk makes it harder for them to come here and address things. *Sometimes you need more space to discuss something than what Twitter permits.*


You would have a point here if Optimus engaged in real discussion on this thread. Sure they drop information from time to time, but rarely respond to direct questions, and continue through follow up questions. They also tend to only post sporadically, and only after the grumbling gets loud again.


----------



## Section31

Eulerian said:


> I'd really rather prefer this thread stick to Optimus waterblocks - they've specifically said that the off-topic talk makes it harder for them to come here and address things. Sometimes you need more space to discuss something than what Twitter permits.


The ordering issues kind of filled up this section. At one point it was talking about optimus future products. Thats what we want to hear about. 

Same reason we used to like heatkiller section when jakob told us about new products. They talked about new internal rads as early as 2017, only now are they coming out. I know am planning to replace my mo-ra3 in the future as result. Did you not read how the bulk of the heatkiller group has now moved to hardwareluxx forum to follow heatkiller products news.

Optimus have much more affordable reservoir coming (glass and hopefully can mount d5 next pump), radiator, expanded fittings lineup coming. They even talked about cases and even quick disconnects (maybe colder cpc lq6). These production delays are holding back the introduction of new products.


----------



## Section31

Eulerian said:


> I'd really rather prefer this thread stick to Optimus waterblocks - they've specifically said that the off-topic talk makes it harder for them to come here and address things. Sometimes you need more space to discuss something than what Twitter permits.


I rather not be shocked like what aquacomputer does which is introduce replacement to aquaero 6 lt, there older products and then recent buyer has to rebuy again. Happened to us who bought the high flow meter v1 this year.


----------



## Shawnb99

m4fox90 said:


> Can we have this _not_ be the Off Topic/Gen Chat page? I hate having to read dozens of posts to find actual Optimus-related things, especially when it's posts from Optimus about shipping or stock status.


You're like 400 pages too late. We talk about everything here.


----------



## Biggu

Optimus WC said:


> Not as bad as the Strix (that thing is a unique card)



So I asked before but it was at the very bottom of the page and easy to miss, Whats the status of the Strix block?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

sakete said:


> Just saw it. Looks interesting, will need to look into this a bit more. Is this Lian Li answering my wish for an awesome watercooling case with Lian Li quality?
> 
> Here a video of a guy doing a build in it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here the actual Lian Li expo (starts at V3000+ case):


This is my next case. I have been searching for awhile for something like this since caselabs is no longer around. Love the option to flip the mobo.


----------



## straha20

Just got my shipping notification for order #OP3628. I placed the order for four x six packs or 1/2" silver hardline fittings last Friday. My blemish reservoirs are out for delivery today.


----------



## sakete

Edge0fsanity said:


> This is my next case. I have been searching for awhile for something like this since caselabs is no longer around. Love the option to flip the mobo.


Probably mine too. Next time I need to replace my mobo I'll probably get this case as well.

I've been wishing for Lian Li to make a huge watercooling focused case. They might be the last quality case manufacturer left.


----------



## Darb

Optimus do you have a timeline for 16mm Hardline compression fittings?


----------



## Phroz3

Eulerian said:


> I'd really rather prefer this thread stick to Optimus waterblocks - they've specifically said that the off-topic talk makes it harder for them to come here and address things. Sometimes you need more space to discuss something than what Twitter permits.


You see, when you have hundreds of people waiting for months on mostly the same product, we tend to gather and talk about it. If you want to see posts specifically from Optimus I invite you to click on their profile where you are able to see nothing but posts from them.


----------



## sakete

Also keep in mind, this is not an Official Optimus thread.


----------



## Darb

GPU Blocks are available on Optimus website


----------



## Phroz3

Blocks are available for purchase on the site now


----------



## Phroz3

Phroz3 said:


> Blocks are available for purchase on the site now


And they are gone


----------



## Phroz3




----------



## Sir Beregond

Phroz3 said:


>


Not yet. Ordered a week ago. So maybe next week since the site said 1-2 weeks.


----------



## Phroz3

Sir Beregond said:


> Not yet. Ordered a week ago. So maybe next week since the site said 1-2 weeks.


I enjoy your optimism.


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> I enjoy your optimism.


I got my shipping notice 7 days after I ordered four six packs of fittings, so there is hope...on some items.

Optimus got more of my money today, because I totally overlooked the fact that the blemish black with black acetal reservoir...the pump top part would also be black acetal and not clear acrylic. I thought it would be the black base with acetal reservoir top, but nope, the only part that is clear acrylic is the tube, so...just ordered a couple more reservoirs, this time silver and acrylic. On the plus side, this will give me some spare parts to have around in case I need them.


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> I got my shipping notice 7 days after I ordered four six packs of fittings, so there is hope...on some items.
> 
> Optimus got more of my money today, because I totally overlooked the fact that the blemish black with black acetal reservoir...the pump top part would also be black acetal and not clear acrylic. I thought it would be the black base with acetal reservoir top, but nope, the only part that is clear acrylic is the tube, so...just ordered a couple more reservoirs, this time silver and acrylic. On the plus side, this will give me some spare parts to have around in case I need them.


I enjoy having spare parts laying around haha. Also it is easier justifying my upgrades because my kids get all my old stuff in their build.


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> I enjoy having spare parts laying around haha. Also it is easier justifying my upgrades because my kids get all my old stuff in their build.


With all of the things I have swapped out this go round, I have enough spare parts for two full loops. Hell, got my 1080ti and water block as my spare GPU.


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> With all of the things I have swapped out this go round, I have enough spare parts for two full loops. Hell, got my 1080ti and water block as my spare GPU.


I am kicking my self for selling the 2070 super I had laying around. I still have the EK block/backplate for it. Once prices stabilize I will get another 2070 super or a 2080 for my kids rig and stick the block on it. It fits all the reference models so it shouldn't be too difficult to find a card for it.


----------



## criskoe

Does anyone have a XC3 they would want to trade for a FTW?


----------



## sakete

My beautiful build! (not!) I have too many sensors and crap in here to be able to tidy it away. This is why I need a true dual-chamber case, so I can hide all the sensors and controllers in the second chamber and tidy up the main chamber.

Man, those quick disconnects are super handy. I could easily disconnect the gpu so I could shake it around and turn it upside down to get the remaining bubbles out, and plug it back in. No leaks!


----------



## Phroz3

sakete said:


> My beautiful build! (not!) I have too many sensors and crap in here to be able to tidy it away. This is why I need a true dual-chamber case, so I can hide all the sensors and controllers in the second chamber and tidy up the main chamber.
> 
> Man, those quick disconnects are super handy. I could easily disconnect the gpu so I could shake it around and turn it upside down to get the remaining bubbles out, and plug it back in. No leaks!
> 
> View attachment 2479500


I don't think I will ever get a case again that doesn't have the compartment in the back. I stuck my controllers and sensor stuff on the very top of the compartment.


----------



## straha20

sakete said:


> My beautiful build! (not!) I have too many sensors and crap in here to be able to tidy it away. This is why I need a true dual-chamber case, so I can hide all the sensors and controllers in the second chamber and tidy up the main chamber.
> 
> Man, those quick disconnects are super handy. I could easily disconnect the gpu so I could shake it around and turn it upside down to get the remaining bubbles out, and plug it back in. No leaks!
> 
> View attachment 2479500


There is actually something very pleasingly industrial about this...in a pretty bad ass kind of way.


----------



## sakete

Phroz3 said:


> I don't think I will ever get a case again that doesn't have the compartment in the back. I stuck my controllers and sensor stuff on the very top of the compartment.


Yeah, I actually got the 011D XL first, but returned it when I realized the HDD cage is terribly ventilated, with my drives approaching 58 degrees, at the upper limit of operating range. I tried adding a small 80mm fan there to create circulation, but it didn't help. That was unacceptable to me and just a design oversight from Lian Li. So I got the Phanteks Enthoo 719 instead, but not too happy with this case, as there is technically a chamber in the back, but it's so tiny that it's stuffed full of cables and I can't put anything else back there.

So I have my Aquaero 6 LT stuffed in the upper right part of the case when you look at my picture, above the 3x 140mm fans. And then I also have an Octo as I needed to control a bunch more fans and other stuff. And then temp sensors, flow sensors, all those fan cables, it quickly just becomes too many wires to tuck away. I'd like to have a minimalist build someday, but I'll need a bigger case for that. Ideally something like the Thermaltake W200 which is a huge dual-chamber case (almost like dual ATX case), but preferably from a manufacturer like Lian Li which would be better quality. I could then stuff the second chamber with controllers and HDDs and reservoirs, and have the main chamber be very clean and empty except for some tubing runs.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah having the dual chamber makes hiding cables and everything so much easier. 50+ fans and multiple pumps, and sensors and the MB side will be almost cable free.


----------



## straha20

Yeah, when I designed and built my case, having a chamber below my motherboard area was a major design requirement...










It also has the benefit of largely isolating the radiator airflow from the other components and allowing for direct airflow in the upper chamber, so everything is getting cool outside air with no mixing.

Now the rats nest of wiring of all the fans and LED's down in there...


----------



## Phroz3

sakete said:


> Yeah, I actually got the 011D XL first, but returned it when I realized the HDD cage is terribly ventilated, with my drives approaching 58 degrees, at the upper limit of operating range. I tried adding a small 80mm fan there to create circulation, but it didn't help. That was unacceptable to me and just a design oversight from Lian Li. So I got the Phanteks Enthoo 719 instead, but not too happy with this case, as there is technically a chamber in the back, but it's so tiny that it's stuffed full of cables and I can't put anything else back there.
> 
> So I have my Aquaero 6 LT stuffed in the upper right part of the case when you look at my picture, above the 3x 140mm fans. And then I also have an Octo as I needed to control a bunch more fans and other stuff. And then temp sensors, flow sensors, all those fan cables, it quickly just becomes too many wires to tuck away. I'd like to have a minimalist build someday, but I'll need a bigger case for that. Ideally something like the Thermaltake W200 which is a huge dual-chamber case (almost like dual ATX case), but preferably from a manufacturer like Lian Li which would be better quality. I could then stuff the second chamber with controllers and HDDs and reservoirs, and have the main chamber be very clean and empty except for some tubing runs.


That is strange. Every setup is a bit different but here is what my drive temp is right now. Seagate 3TB 7200RPM drive.


----------



## Avacado

straha20 said:


> Yeah, when I designed and built my case, having a chamber below my motherboard area was a major design requirement...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also has the benefit of largely isolating the radiator airflow from the other components and allowing for direct airflow in the upper chamber, so everything is getting cool outside air with no mixing.
> 
> Now the rats nest of wiring of all the fans and LED's down in there...


Man that is freaking sweet. Where did you fab it all?


----------



## sakete

straha20 said:


> Yeah, when I designed and built my case, having a chamber below my motherboard area was a major design requirement...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also has the benefit of largely isolating the radiator airflow from the other components and allowing for direct airflow in the upper chamber, so everything is getting cool outside air with no mixing.
> 
> Now the rats nest of wiring of all the fans and LED's down in there...


That's a really nice custom case, man! Wood even  Woodworking is fun. It's slowly becoming a new hobby of mine.


----------



## Sir Beregond

straha20 said:


> Yeah, when I designed and built my case, having a chamber below my motherboard area was a major design requirement...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also has the benefit of largely isolating the radiator airflow from the other components and allowing for direct airflow in the upper chamber, so everything is getting cool outside air with no mixing.
> 
> Now the rats nest of wiring of all the fans and LED's down in there...


That is really cool. I don't know why but the design/color scheme kinda reminds me of an In-n-Out or Five Guys heh.


----------



## sakete

Sir Beregond said:


> That is really cool. I don't know why but the design/color scheme kinda reminds me of an In-n-Out or Five Guys heh.


Now I want a burger.


----------



## Swiso

Guys, a noob question...
I had to change some of the M4x30 screws that came with the GTX420 rads because the thread of (on the tip) was worn out...does it matter if I will use stainless steel ones?
Does it matter what material the new screws are made of? (In regard of mixing metals...)
I guess not, because they are external..
Just want to be sure.
Thanks !


----------



## chuggz

Swiso said:


> Guys, a noob question...
> I had to change some of the M4x30 screws that came with the GTX420 rads because the thread of (on the tip) was worn out...does it matter if I will use stainless steel ones?
> Does it matter what material the new screws are made of? (In regard of mixing metals...)
> I guess not, because they are external..
> Just want to be sure.
> Thanks !


As long as they aren't touching water then what material they're made of doesn't matter.


----------



## Phroz3

Swiso said:


> Guys, a noob question...
> I had to change some of the M4x30 screws that came with the GTX420 rads because the thread of (on the tip) was worn out...does it matter if I will use stainless steel ones?
> Does it matter what material the new screws are made of? (In regard of mixing metals...)
> I guess not, because they are external..
> Just want to be sure.
> Thanks !


Just be gentle with the stainless screws. They are weaker than regular steel screws in my experience. My boat uses a ton of them.


----------



## Swiso

chuggz said:


> As long as they aren't touching water then what material they're made of doesn't matter.


No, just to mount them on a radiator support. (see the red parts)
No water.
Thanks !


----------



## Swiso

Phroz3 said:


> Just be gentle with the stainless screws. They are weaker than regular steel screws in my experience. My boat uses a ton of them.


Sorry !! They are steel...not stainless !!
My bad... 😬 😬 😬


----------



## straha20

Avacado said:


> Man that is freaking sweet. Where did you fab it all?


In my basement


----------



## straha20

So I am modding my Optimus reservoir, putting a piece of acrylic between the pump top and the base to effectively seal off the top and use it as a straight reservoir rather than a res/pump combo. What I need is a way to seal it up. I know I could use some pure silicone caulk, but want something that would be a bit less permanent and allow for it to be taken apart. I am thinking about using something like this...



Amazon.com



or a bit thinner...this...






Amazon.com: Silicone Rubber Sheet High Temp Thin Transparent Heat Resistant 300x370x0.5mm: Home & Kitchen


Buy Silicone Rubber Sheet High Temp Thin Transparent Heat Resistant 300x370x0.5mm: Sheets, Rolls & Strips - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com





The way these pieces fit together isn't all that different than say a car intake manifold, or car thermostat.


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> So I am modding my Optimus reservoir, putting a piece of acrylic between the pump top and the base to effectively seal off the top and use it as a straight reservoir rather than a res/pump combo. What I need is a way to seal it up. I know I could use some pure silicone caulk, but want something that would be a bit less permanent and allow for it to be taken apart. I am thinking about using something like this...
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> or a bit thinner...this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Silicone Rubber Sheet High Temp Thin Transparent Heat Resistant 300x370x0.5mm: Home & Kitchen
> 
> 
> Buy Silicone Rubber Sheet High Temp Thin Transparent Heat Resistant 300x370x0.5mm: Sheets, Rolls & Strips - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way these pieces fit together isn't all that different than say a car intake manifold, or car thermostat.


that might work. Wonder if you could find the right sized gasket at the autparts store attached to an oil filter?


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> that might work. Wonder if you could find the right sized gasket at the autparts store attached to an oil filter?


I want it to fit edge to edge, so outside needs to be square 3x3 inches, and preferably as close to clear as possible.


----------



## straha20

Here are the pieces...the top and bottom, and my acrylic piece that goes in between. I need a water proof seal between the top picec and my acrylic middle...


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> Here are the pieces...the top and bottom, and my acrylic piece that goes in between. I need a water proof seal between the top picec and my acrylic middle...


If you end up going the silicone route use stuff that says ge1. Most other stuff has chemical fungal inhibitors that might not play nice with the loop.


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> If you end up going the silicone route use stuff that says ge1. Most other stuff has chemical fungal inhibitors that might not play nice with the loop.


Great advice!

Very familiar with ge1...my other hobby is aquariums. Though when I build tanks, Momentive RTV108 all the way. Though, if I used the RTV108 here, it'd be well sealed, but would never come off.

I decided to order a sheet of the thin silicone sheet and give it a try. Worst that happens is that I break out the ge1, and have a bit harder of a time removing it is I ever would need to.


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> Great advice!
> 
> Very familiar with ge1...my other hobby is aquariums. Though when I build tanks, Momentive RTV108 all the way. Though, if I used the RTV108 here, it'd be well sealed, but would never come off.
> 
> I decided to order a sheet of the thin silicone sheet and give it a try. Worst that happens is that I break out the ge1, and have a bit harder of a time removing it is I ever would need to.


I'm into fish as well. New world cichlids.


----------



## Chamidorix

I love how Optimus themselves have literally come in here and asked that off-topic chat be toned downed so they themselves can parse posts better and its not a one and done debate.


----------



## Phroz3

Chamidorix said:


> I love how Optimus themselves have literally come in here and asked that off-topic chat be toned downed so they themselves can parse posts better and its not a one and done debate.


Not their forum, not their post. No debate needed.


----------



## Phroz3

All of my 94 posts. Well now 95 are all from this single thread lol


----------



## Shawnb99

Phroz3 said:


> All of my 94 posts. Well now 95 are all from this single thread lol


You need to get out more


----------



## straha20

Shawnb99 said:


> You need to get out more


So do you think this would work as a gasket?






Amazon.com: Silicone Rubber Sheet High Temp Thin Transparent Heat Resistant 300x370x0.5mm: Home & Kitchen


Buy Silicone Rubber Sheet High Temp Thin Transparent Heat Resistant 300x370x0.5mm: Sheets, Rolls & Strips - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


----------



## Phroz3

Shawnb99 said:


> You need to get out more


Where's this out? I've heard of the place. Sounds so familiar lol.


----------



## rayuma

Any chance the 1/29 batch of FTW3 blocks will be shipped this week? According to Optimus - "These blocks will go into production today, the 29th. Manufacturing all parts will take roughly a week before the parts are sent to plating and anodizing. The finishing takes 10-14 days, though we always push to get it faster. Thus, rough ETA from today is reasonably 3 weeks for your block to be made and shipped to you."


----------



## Section31

rayuma said:


> Any chance the 1/29 batch of FTW3 blocks will be shipped this week? According to Optimus - "These blocks will go into production today, the 29th. Manufacturing all parts will take roughly a week before the parts are sent to plating and anodizing. The finishing takes 10-14 days, though we always push to get it faster. Thus, rough ETA from today is reasonably 3 weeks for your block to be made and shipped to you."


I really doubt it. i would say mar to april honestly. I also ordered on 1/29.

Any timeline from water companies are unreliable atm. You are going to hit either logistics or production delays.


----------



## Section31

Chamidorix said:


> I love how Optimus themselves have literally come in here and asked that off-topic chat be toned downed so they themselves can parse posts better and its not a one and done debate.


The off topic is what keep this thread alive. Have you not seen heatkiller and aquacomputer ones, literally very dead. Heatkiller ppl have moved onto hardwareluxx page at this point. We got tired of chasing down them for info on the rads.

Optimus got lot of heat already. The days of them telling/leaking the new products are done. People chasing them on orders, calling there 2080ti waterblock vapour ware was pretty bad enough.

My only concern with optimus is if they focus so much on meeting demands they can’t produce new products.


----------



## Section31

Chamidorix said:


> I love how Optimus themselves have literally come in here and asked that off-topic chat be toned downed so they themselves can parse posts better and its not a one and done debate.


The other thing with optimus is we hope they stay committed to pc water cooling and continue to expand there products. We don’t want another caselabs happening.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> I really doubt it. i would say mar to april honestly. I also ordered on 1/29.
> 
> Any timeline from water companies are unreliable atm. You are going to hit either logistics or production delays.


I think the earliest possible would be March 5th since they seem to ship the FTW blocks on Fri. They seem to be on the tail end of batch 2 but I haven't heard anyone say they had one shipped today. Hold on tight, we'll get there.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> I think the earliest possible would be March 5th since they seem to ship the FTW blocks on Fri. They seem to be on the tail end of batch 2 but I haven't heard anyone say they had one shipped today. Hold on tight, we'll get there.


I am. Just glad i don’t have to watch 24/7 on ordering one. Just that people want there blocks asap lol.


----------



## Darb

Custom loop stuff is back ordered and delays in production all over the place. Waiting on 6800xt block for Heatkiller, Reservoir and AMD block from Optimus, fittings from Optimus, Sensors from Auquacomputer and the list goes on. Maybe by July my system will be built!😀😀


----------



## Section31

Darb said:


> Custom loop stuff is back ordered and delays in production all over the place. Waiting on 6800xt block for Heatkiller, Reservoir and AMD block from Optimus, fittings from Optimus, Sensors from Auquacomputer and the list goes on. Maybe by July my system will be built!😀😀


Some people are too hopeful here thats all


----------



## Kriant

rayuma said:


> Any chance the 1/29 batch of FTW3 blocks will be shipped this week? According to Optimus - "These blocks will go into production today, the 29th. Manufacturing all parts will take roughly a week before the parts are sent to plating and anodizing. The finishing takes 10-14 days, though we always push to get it faster. Thus, rough ETA from today is reasonably 3 weeks for your block to be made and shipped to you."


I am still waiting on my batch 2 block that I have ordered back on 11/16/2020.

At this rate I won't believe a word about quick turnaround times


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Anyone know what thickness the thermal pads are for the ram, mosfets, and vrms for the ftw3 block? They looked like .5mm, can anyone confirm? Going to buy extras since I need to remount. Plan to do it soon while I convert my build to hardline and finish the wiring.


----------



## Gunslinger.

How ****ty is this Optimus company, they never update anything and damn sure don't answer emails.


----------



## Gunslinger.

Edge0fsanity said:


> SLI is dead, if it means getting the block out faster I say drop it.


*BLASPHEMY!!!

SLI FOREVER*


----------



## Phroz3

Gunslinger. said:


> How ****ty is this Optimus company, they never update anything and damn sure don't answer emails.


Bad at communicating but the product is worth it. Guess I am slightly ok with it if it keeps the normies away.


----------



## straha20

My lighting the reservoirs project is about complete. Just still working on the best way to seal it up. Just some quick pictures.


----------



## Darb

Looks good!


----------



## straha20

This just arrived today...



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KQLRXB



Remarkably easy to work with, and thus far, seems to be doing the job perfectly.


----------



## jincuteguy

So the Optimus compression fittings for hardline tubing only has 1 o-ring compare to Bitspower with 2 orings and Barrow fittings have 3 orings. Which one of these is more secured?


----------



## Section31

jincuteguy said:


> So the Optimus compression fittings for hardline tubing only has 1 o-ring compare to Bitspower with 2 orings and Barrow fittings have 3 orings. Which one of these is more secured?


Optimus hardline is really nice to use. I have used bitspower original, premium, advance and optimus is perfect fit 100% of time and secure.


----------



## straha20

jincuteguy said:


> So the Optimus compression fittings for hardline tubing only has 1 o-ring compare to Bitspower with 2 orings and Barrow fittings have 3 orings. Which one of these is more secured?


There is more material in the Optimus gasket coming in contact with the tube than even the three O ring fittings.


----------



## jincuteguy

Section31 said:


> Optimus hardline is really nice to use. I have used bitspower original, premium, advance and optimus is perfect fit 100% of time and secure.


Even with only 1 oring?


----------



## jincuteguy

straha20 said:


> There is more material in the Optimus gasket coming in contact with the tube than even the three O ring fittings.


Oh I see, nice. I have a 6pack Optimus fittings here , just waiting for the CPU block + Reservoir then I can start the build.


----------



## jincuteguy

straha20 said:


> There is more material in the Optimus gasket coming in contact with the tube than even the three O ring fittings.


How do you use the Optimus fittings for hardtube? 
Do you leave the gasket inside the fitting, and then push the tube in, and then twist the Compression cover? 
Or do you put the Gasket and the compression cover on the tube first, and then start twisting it? 

I just found that it's easier if I just leave the gasket inside the fitting, and then put the compression cover on the tube, and then just insert the tube in and twist the compression cover.


----------



## straha20

jincuteguy said:


> How do you use the Optimus fittings for hardtube?
> Do you leave the gasket inside the fitting, and then push the tube in, and then twist the Compression cover?
> Or do you put the Gasket and the compression cover on the tube first, and then start twisting it?
> 
> I just found that it's easier if I just leave the gasket inside the fitting, and then put the compression cover on the tube, and then just insert the tube in and twist the compression cover.


I typically put the compression cover on the tube, leaving the gasket in the fitting, put the tube into gasket and fitting, then tighten it down.


----------



## Section31

jincuteguy said:


> How do you use the Optimus fittings for hardtube?
> Do you leave the gasket inside the fitting, and then push the tube in, and then twist the Compression cover?
> Or do you put the Gasket and the compression cover on the tube first, and then start twisting it?
> 
> I just found that it's easier if I just leave the gasket inside the fitting, and then put the compression cover on the tube, and then just insert the tube in and twist the compression cover.


either method works.


----------



## criskoe

Might be a weird question but have any of you guys ever painted the acrylic terminals and the main acrylic base plate of a gpu block before?

I really want a blacked out version of the Optimus gpu block and am afraid of waiting for a acetal version that might not even be planned. I’ve reached out to them a few times and have also asked here but they wouldn’t say if a acetal one would ever be coming. They have a hard enough time with one sku that it might be asking too much of them. lol.

I can’t imagine that painting the outer acrylic sides that don’t touch water should cause any harm. Yeah?


----------



## Optimus WC

criskoe said:


> Might be a weird question but have any of you guys ever painted the acrylic terminals and the main acrylic base plate of a gpu block before?
> 
> I really want a blacked out version of the Optimus gpu block and am afraid of waiting for a acetal version that might not even be planned. I’ve reached out to them a few times and have also asked here but they wouldn’t say if a acetal one would ever be coming. They have a hard enough time with one sku that it might be asking too much of them. lol.
> 
> I can’t imagine that painting the outer acrylic sides that don’t touch water should cause any harm. Yeah?


Go ahead and paint it, acrylic handles paint well 

We can do a black acrylic (not acetal) version eventually, though demand for clear acrylic is obv very high. So adding another element into the mix will add complications right now.


----------



## criskoe

Optimus WC said:


> Go ahead and paint it, acrylic handles paint well
> 
> We can do a black acrylic (not acetal) version eventually, though demand for clear acrylic is obv very high. So adding another element into the mix will add complications right now.


Hey thanks for the info.
I figured adding black option right now might be too much To ask for.. Painting it will have to suffice for now. 

A nice matte black I think is in order.  

Think some more will go up again this week? (Friday)?

You don’t happen to have any blemished acrylic blocks to sell do ya? Would be perfect to paint over.


----------



## JustinThyme

Yeah I’d say if you want to paint it use paint made for the surface. Something like Krylon fusion. It says no sanding but my experience is no matter what the label says the surface needs sanded for good adhesion. Just roughed up a little with fine grit on an orbital sander would work great. Shiny surfaces tend to let go of the paint and that would suck.
Mine is mostly blacked out with a few nickel accents in the blocks.

as an alternative heat killer is another alternative. I know at this point they are doing EVGA XC3, Zotac and reference. The reference is available is acetal and the rest it’s a choice of nickel or bare copper with nickel or black trim.

When 20XX rolled out the EK blocks to me were just butt ugly for the Strix cards and well, pretty much all of them. HK is pleasing and delivers awesome performance. My GPU block of choice. Not that Optimus doesn’t make good products and not that they haven’t made good on the first CPU block I got from them that shed nickel plating more than my Labrador sheds hair. My thing is you wait 6 months or best case 6-8 weeks. What if it’s fubar and leaks when you get it or has other issues like shedding? Contacting is futile at this point. They said they had signature blocks flat blems just contact them here and even had my name on the post. Well posted, PMd and emailed and that was 3 weeks ago. No response to anything. They need to step up their game or step out. Would be a shame to see them disappear as fast as they appeared but the business model as it stands won’t survive. More competitive market forces innovation instead of just using the same design year after year and changing the mount more or less as a good bit of manufacturers do.


----------



## mongoled

Anybody else noticed @ThrashZone "disappearence" ?

Been 2 months since his last post, hope he is OK!


----------



## sakete

mongoled said:


> Anybody else noticed @ThrashZone "disappearence" ?
> 
> Been 2 months since his last post, hope he is OK!


I did notice, yes. Just like skrupples is another one that disappeared.


----------



## chibi

Hi,
I miss thrash' forum posting etiquette.
Hope he comes back soon.

Thanks, Jura chibi


----------



## Avacado

chibi said:


> Hi,
> I miss thrash' forum posting etiquette.
> Hope he comes back soon.
> 
> Thanks, Jura chibi


Was just thinking about him @ThrashZone and @skupples. Where they hell you guys been?


----------



## D-EJ915

thrash did mention he is in texas so maybe he's got the power issues at least for why he is recently missing, may just be busy with life.


----------



## JustinThyme

Life Happens, People come and go.
I have periods of time where I just don't have the time like the next two weeks I"ll be out of town teaching a class on a particular product line in BF Rhode Island. Ive not been to any other state (and Ive been to every one of them) where there is nothing to do. So who knows I might find myself sitting in my hotel suite online. Everyone with few exceptions has periods of inactivity. Some get time outs and its not displayed.

Thrash and I don't exactly see eye to eye on just about anything and I have him on my ignore list with one other member. Funny someone mentioned etiquette, lack of is why I have him on my ignore list. Don't wish ill will on anyone, just better to not go there and I know myself well enough that when Im being trolled I often fall into the trap so I just close the door before it gets to that point. 

For those of you who do converse Im sure he will be back eventually. Like I said, often life just gets on the way and there's no time for forum posting.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Life Happens, People come and go.
> I have periods of time where I just don't have the time like the next two weeks I"ll be out of town teaching a class on a particular product line in BF Rhode Island. Ive not been to any other state (and Ive been to every one of them) where there is nothing to do. So who knows I might find myself sitting in my hotel suite online. Everyone with few exceptions has periods of inactivity. Some get time outs and its not displayed.
> 
> Thrash and I don't exactly see eye to eye on just about anything and I have him on my ignore list with one other member. Funny someone mentioned etiquette, lack of is why I have him on my ignore list. Don't wish ill will on anyone, just better to not go there and I know myself well enough that when Im being trolled I often fall into the trap so I just close the door before it gets to that point.
> 
> For those of you who do converse Im sure he will be back eventually. Like I said, often life just gets on the way and there's no time for forum posting.


Thrash and Skrupples aren’t easy to get alone with. Not real blockable though. Agree on life gets in the way and take priority.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Thrash and Skrupples aren’t easy to get alone with. Not real blockable though. Agree on life gets in the way and take priority.


Got along fine with Thrash until it came time to test the Optimus and Magnitude blocks. Then things went south. I’ll not relive it, it can be read some here but mostly in the EK Magnitude thread. We had a lot of good interaction until that came along. I don’t put many on the ignore list but when personal insults start flying it’s time to do just that 
Never had any ill interactions with Skrupples. 

Its been my experience that this time of year a lot of activity on all online forums slows for awhile to the point of becoming stagnant, like this thread that has become a general conversation thread instead of Optimus related. Could be accolades about good blocks or the inverse but when they just are not producing and delivering nothing to talk about. I’m seeing the same across multiple platforms. Looks good on paper, a few deliveries here and there but the banter has subsided from the new kid on the block introducing some competitive products to a pet project that doesn’t deliver or communicate. Came in like a hurricane and now barely lingering like a fart.


----------



## Sir Beregond

JustinThyme said:


> Came in like a hurricane and now barely lingering like a fart.


Thanks, needed a good chuckle this morning.

Friday will mark 2 weeks since I ordered my Optimus block. Hope they send it out soon..


----------



## Darb

Sir Beregond said:


> Thanks, needed a good chuckle this morning.
> 
> Friday will mark 2 weeks since I ordered my Optimus block. Hope they send it out soon..


I ordered an AMD CPU block and a reservoir on January 28th and still waiting so do not hold your breath


----------



## straha20

Got my fittings. Just waiting on my two blemish silver reservoirs


----------



## Sir Beregond

Darb said:


> I ordered an AMD CPU block and a reservoir on January 28th and still waiting so do not hold your breath


Huh, so much for that "Orders will ship in 1-2 weeks" message on the site then.


----------



## JustinThyme

straha20 said:


> Got my fittings. Just waiting on my two blemish silver reservoirs


One would think the blems would ship first seeing how they already have them and have classified them as blems. At a loss for any type of explanation as there can’t possibly be a good one.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> One would think the blems would ship first seeing how they already have them and have classified them as blems. At a loss for any type of explanation as there can’t possibly be a good one.


Two of the three people that make up the whole company called in sick.... Could be many reasons.
Since the news broke that the company is run out of the fathers shop, I'm more understanding of the lack of communications, delays and general **** ups. I'm willing to forgive a bit more while they grow. Up to a point of course. The longer I wait for my block to even be designed the less I'll forgive.


----------



## Kriant

Sir Beregond said:


> Thanks, needed a good chuckle this morning.
> 
> Friday will mark 2 weeks since I ordered my Optimus block. Hope they send it out soon..


If it is an FTW3 block - good luck. They still haven't shipped my batch 2 order that I placed over 90 days ago back on November 16 of last year.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Kriant said:


> If it is an FTW3 block - good luck. They still haven't shipped my batch 2 order that I placed over 90 days ago back on November 16 of last year.


No, its an AM4 block. Ordered it right when they said orders were open for it again. Of course their site had the 1-2 weeks to ship message at the time (I think it still does). We'll see come Friday.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, we've brought on more staff and implemented some new things to speed up order processing. When it comes to the blemish reservoirs, not every piece in it is a blem, so maybe there's a mark on the tube and/or the pump bottom. Not every part is a blem, so some of the parts we're waiting on, like more xylem pumps, etc. 

We are doing a ton of work behind the scenes to get this ramped up quickly, so we can continue to design and craft the best blocks possible, now aiming for the top fulfillment to back it up.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we've brought on more staff and implemented some new things to speed up order processing. When it comes to the blemish reservoirs, not every piece in it is a blem, so maybe there's a mark on the tube and/or the pump bottom. Not every part is a blem, so some of the parts we're waiting on, like more xylem pumps, etc.
> 
> We are doing a ton of work behind the scenes to get this ramped up quickly, so we can continue to design and craft the best blocks possible, now aiming for the top fulfillment to back it up.


Nice! Good thing I didn't need a pump with my blem reservoir  Of course there is no option to add a pump to the blemish reservoir...


----------



## LiquidHaus

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we've brought on more staff and implemented some new things to speed up order processing.
> 
> We are doing a ton of work behind the scenes to get this ramped up quickly, so we can continue to design and craft the best blocks possible, now aiming for the top fulfillment to back it up.


That's great to hear!

Excited to get this thing swapped over to Optimus parts along with that KPE block...


----------



## Darb

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we've brought on more staff and implemented some new things to speed up order processing. When it comes to the blemish reservoirs, not every piece in it is a blem, so maybe there's a mark on the tube and/or the pump bottom. Not every part is a blem, so some of the parts we're waiting on, like more xylem pumps, etc.
> 
> We are doing a ton of work behind the scenes to get this ramped up quickly, so we can continue to design and craft the best blocks possible, now aiming for the top fulfillment to back it up.


Thank you for the update! I also cannot wait to see my parts. I always find waiting for stuff to arrive is the hardest part.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Right now its a race to see what I get first. The Alphacool GPU block or the Optimus CPU block.


----------



## Darb

Sir Beregond said:


> Right now its a race to see what I get first. The Alphacool GPU block or the Optimus CPU block.


Which Alphacool block are you waiting for?


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Right now its a race to see what I get first. The Alphacool GPU block or the Optimus CPU block.


When did you place order lol. If you ordered Jan 29, it going to be between Mar-April before i would expect to receive it.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Huh, so much for that "Orders will ship in 1-2 weeks" message on the site then.


It really depends on what you ordered. hence why the order numbers are inaccurate. Blemish stuff should ship out 1-2weeks. Non-Blemish Stuff like fittings fast also. Reservoir/CPU block probably 2weeks (Intel even faster). GPU blocks are at least an month.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> That's great to hear!
> 
> Excited to get this thing swapped over to Optimus parts along with that KPE block...


Will you be getting your hands on heatkiller new radiator.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Section31 said:


> Will you be getting your hands on heatkiller new radiator.


Whenever they go on sale, probably.

When Jakob quit, my Heatkiller contact was gone for getting things early.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Darb said:


> Which Alphacool block are you waiting for?


Zotac 3070. Bykski makes one too, but wasn't going to ship till like end of April.



Section31 said:


> When did you place order lol. If you ordered Jan 29, it going to be between Mar-April before i would expect to receive it.


2/12. So a couple more days for that 2 week mark.


----------



## monners

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we've brought on more staff and implemented some new things to speed up order processing. When it comes to the blemish reservoirs, not every piece in it is a blem, so maybe there's a mark on the tube and/or the pump bottom. Not every part is a blem, so some of the parts we're waiting on, like more xylem pumps, etc.
> 
> We are doing a ton of work behind the scenes to get this ramped up quickly, so we can continue to design and craft the best blocks possible, now aiming for the top fulfillment to back it up.


What does this mean for the last of the batch 2 FTW block orders? I'm order 3051 and haven't made a peep about the delays so far, just getting a little worried something might fall through the cracks. Got a 3090 that's been sat in its box for almost 4 months now...


----------



## straha20

One thing that would be nice would be the ability to purchase spare o-rings and gaskets for the blocks and fittings.


----------



## JustinThyme

Sir Beregond said:


> No, its an AM4 block. Ordered it right when they said orders were open for it again. Of course their site had the 1-2 weeks to ship message at the time (I think it still does). We'll see come Friday.


They did have stock at PPCs but now only have Thread ripper. I just looked there on a whim when there was zero stock at Optimus and plenty at PPCS of all CPU blocks and bought the foundation just for giggles to see if there was better performance than the Sig V2, there was not.


----------



## straha20

My Optimus AM4 block was an impulse buy from PPCs, and was the last one they had in stock. I also bought out the last of PPCs Optiimus 1/2 silver hardline fitting too.


----------



## Sir Beregond

JustinThyme said:


> They did have stock at PPCs but now only have Thread ripper. I just looked there on a whim when there was zero stock at Optimus and plenty at PPCS of all CPU blocks and bought the foundation just for giggles to see if there was better performance than the Sig V2, there was not.


Yeah I had checked PPCs and they didn't have any, like you said just Threadripper.

My small beef with PPCs right now is that the GPU block I pre-ordered still says "Coming 3rd or 4th week of January".


----------



## Section31

Darb said:


> Let me know where to buy the Next Flow. Only one I found was on Ebay for 3 times the MSRP.


Apparently some people had luck on modmymods. 40days wait and cheapest of the group. Otherwise dazmode. You got to likely join the wait list. Aquacomputer 100euro shipping only option killed them as option


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Apparently some people had luck on modmymods. 40days wait and cheapest of the group. Otherwise dazmode. You got to likely join the wait list. Aquacomputer 100euro shipping only option killed them as option


You can get it down to around 45-50euro if you contact them directly. I want the dual D5 next top but it hasn't been sold anywhere but through them or Aquatuning and has the same 45euro starting shipping cost. Anything from overseas is insane for shipping atm.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> You can get it down to around 45-50euro if you contact them directly. I want the dual D5 next top but it hasn't been sold anywhere but through them or Aquatuning and has the same 45euro starting shipping cost. Anything from overseas is insane for shipping atm.


Not anymore. No more dhl express



JustinThyme said:


> You just have to know where to look. I was having difficulty with the Next Flow myself then bam there it is. I'm always in a hurry. You don't have it and I buy elsewhere before my hardware is obsolete. I wanted to check the foundation out as Flash said it was so much better than the Sig V2. Found they had stock at PPCs and had a bunch of rewards points and grabbed one for like $40. In the end, no difference noted between the two on a 10980XE. Actually got the best out of a magnitude with the flat cold plate and Sig V2 with the inlet oring pulled out reducing the bow which is why I wanted to try one of the blem sig V2 flat tops that "Have Plenty of laying around". Guess they are still laying around as I didnt get one after multiple contact attempts and no replies. Tried my best to endorse them but with the long delays and lack of communication I just cant.


You should read the recent response on hardwareluxx, watercool (heatkiller) got really mad at ppl asking about gpu blocks for 6000 and ftw3. Same with radiator.









WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo


Vielen Dank! :bigok:




www.hardwareluxx.de





Post#9644


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

I can tell there are valid concerns about what's going on here but while I can't force people to be patient, I will ask that the same professional courtesy be extended as you would expect in return, even if you feel they don't deserve it.


----------



## m4fox90

Sir Beregond said:


> Huh, so much for that "Orders will ship in 1-2 weeks" message on the site then.



Yeah I just wish they were more honest about delays in shipping on products that are allegedly in stock. If they're in stock, there's no excuse for delays in shipping. Just tell me my order is going to take a month+ to ship up front, don't lie to me.


----------



## Shawnb99

m4fox90 said:


> Yeah I just wish they were more honest about delays in shipping on products that are allegedly in stock. If they're in stock, there's no excuse for delays in shipping. Just tell me my order is going to take a month+ to ship up front, don't lie to me.


Please show me where they lied to you? Screenshots if you have them.... I'll be here holding my breath.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Shawnb99 said:


> Please show me where they lied to you? Screenshots if you have them.... I'll be here holding my breath.


I'll let you know if my block ships tomorrow.

Its not a big deal to me since its not the only part I am waiting on. But if you do list 1-2 weeks on your site I expect it to be 1-2 weeks. Not lying per se, but definitely overextending it sounds like and not actually "in stock".


----------



## Shawnb99

Sir Beregond said:


> I'll let you know if my block ships tomorrow.
> 
> Its not a big deal to me since its not the only part I am waiting on. But if you do list 1-2 weeks on your site I expect it to be 1-2 weeks. Not lying per se, but definitely overextending it sounds like and not actually "in stock".


If it's not lying then don't call it that. Being optimistic and outright deceiving are two completely different things and until people in this thread learn that I'm going to keep calling them out on it.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Shawnb99 said:


> If it's not lying then don't call it that. Being optimistic and outright deceiving are two completely different things and until people in this thread learn that I'm going to keep calling them out on it.


I wasn't the one that called them that. 

Like I said, not a big deal to me since not only part I am waiting on and figured there was a 50/50 chance of that happening based on this thread.


----------



## m4fox90

Shawnb99 said:


> Please show me where they lied to you? Screenshots if you have them.... I'll be here holding my breath.


Okay. Every time you open optimuspc dot com, there's a popup that says "Items ordered now will ship in 1 to 2 weeks," and this has been the case since I started checking stock regularly, roughly 6 weeks I'd say, so mid-January.

I ordered "Absolute D5 Reservoir System - Ready To Ship - 8.5" System / Yes " on 3 February, a Wednesday. Order #OP3558

An item with "Ready to ship" IN THE TITLE that does not ship in the next day or two is not being truthful, i.e, is a lie.

Let alone this little doozy on the AMD Foundation CPU Block page:
"*SHIPPING INFORMATION (12/24/20):* *Blocks will ship the week of January 11th-15th*." That's not lying, that's just embarrassing. It's almost March and the last shipping update on product pages is from Christmas?

What word would you use when a company claims that "Items ordered now will ship in 1 to 2 weeks" and here we are, multiple weeks later (I know there are people in this thread with longer waits than that), without that item having been shipped? To me, that's a lie.

When I sell something on Ebay, I leave it as "5 days handling time." I make sure to not take more than 2, exceptions for cases like long Federal holiday weekends with closed post office, etc.

The delay isn't, inherently, the problem. The problem is the lying about items that are in stock and the shipping and handling schedules. Tell me the truth that an "in stock" item isn't actually in stock and that I should expect month+ shipping and handling delays up front.


But hey, if you have information refuting that, like my tracking number for the Pump/res or the Foundation Block that I ordered on the 15th, by all means hit me with some knowledge.


----------



## Shawnb99

Ah so shipping delays are lies now. Got ya.


----------



## m4fox90

Shawnb99 said:


> Ah so shipping delays are lies now. Got ya.


Once I can excuse. But Optimus is systemic and notorious for it. When it's every product, all the time, with everybody, it's not just "shipping delays."

I can't change your mind form deciding to get your jollies defending a company from people who are unhappy with it, but I can say that they don't need your help, and they're not going to help you with your problems.


----------



## Shawnb99

m4fox90 said:


> Once I can excuse. But Optimus is systemic and notorious for it. When it's every product, all the time, with everybody, it's not just "shipping delays."
> 
> I can't change your mind form deciding to get your jollies defending a company from people who are unhappy with it, but I can say that they don't need your help, and they're not going to help you with your problems.


When you're a big company like EK or any of the others then yeah it's more then "shipping delays." When it's a small shop that has to work out of the fathers shop then I'll accept "shipping delays."

But as you said you won't change my mind from calling out those who act like children and call names. Since we don't have mods here someone has to do it. I'm sick of tired of it. Not looking to help Optimus or get help with "my problems".


----------



## Section31

On the brigher side, I may be jumping to kingpin gpu block instead of ftw3. I got an nice offer for my 3090ftw3 i am highly considering since I have backorder for kingpin that's coming up and I am busy at work so i rarely use the computer anyway.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> On the brigher side, I may be jumping to kingpin gpu block instead of ftw3. I got an nice offer for my 3090ftw3 i am highly considering since I have backorder for kingpin that's coming up and I am busy at work so i rarely use the computer anyway.


Do you have a optimus FTW3 block already? Or have one on order?

Im north of the border and would buy it from you ASAP!


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Do you have a optimus FTW3 block already? Or have one on order?
> 
> Im north of the border and would buy it from you ASAP!


One on order lol.


----------



## Phroz3

Wow I scored a 5900x on the AMD website this morning! Stoked.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Phroz3 said:


> Wow I scored a 5900x on the AMD website this morning! Stoked.


There are some 5950X still at my local Mc, but no 5900X.


----------



## Phroz3

Sir Beregond said:


> There are some 5950X still at my local Mc, but no 5900X.


We don't have a computer store within 1000 miles of here haha.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> There are some 5950X still at my local Mc, but no 5900X.


Nice. Hopefully B&H got big shipment lol. One big shipment will clear me up


----------



## Eulerian

Block arrived (OP2968, ordered Nov 4, just arrived today Feb 25th - 3 months and 3 weeks exact):

I am a little afraid to install the block however because there seems to be an issue - I reached out to Optimus already over email, but no response today - and in general haven't heard back since Jan 19 (my other emails since went unanswered), so I am hoping I can get some advice from others in this thread in the meantime.

*First, the good news */ general unboxing, looks like everything's there:

Box:









Included itemcount:









Thermal pads - hoping it's all good there, haven't checked in-depth yet but this is what arrived:









Block shot from above:









Back shot of block:









The included thermal paste + spatula + plugs:









Big thermal pad on the backplate:









The backplate:









Allen wrenches and screws:









*Onto the not so good news:*

Giving everything a once-over, I noticed that along the sides there are spiky metal linings that almost looks like debris, or cuts that weren't cleaned up, or something with the plating, I have no idea. 

The main concern to me is that there's a lot of it. I am worried that if I start flushing coolant through this thing, over time it's going to knock loose all these jagged, irregular metal bits -- and damage my blocks, tubing, pump, res, rads, and/or possibly other hardware. Both the left and right sides have this issue but it's much more prominent on the right. Hard to get good pictures, but:

Upper right side, phone shot:









Right side, phone shot:









Right side, macro lens / camera shot:









Left side, macro lens / camera shot:









Got out the USB microscope to take some closer shots of the big jaggies on the right side - this is the one from the first image, zoomed in:









Another one on the same side:









Another one etc:









In general you see lots of sharp metal bits sticking out every-which-way as you move the block along the microscope. Sort of hard to get better shots because there's only so much space under my microscope, but hopefully it's clear enough.

My question: Can anyone confirm if this is normal / expected / safe / etc? To anyone else with a block, did yours look like this as well?

I've put over $10k USD into my PC setup - I definitely don't want metal bits possibly dislodging and wreaking havoc. Do I need to pop off the top acrylic piece and take a metal file to this? 

Can anyone confirm if this is just a cosmetic concern and nothing to worry about, or did this unit not get QC'd properly?

Would appreciate any advice - thanks!


----------



## whaleboy_4096

Mine was the exact same way (I recieved it last week). Looks lik it's in the same spot as well... it was only in one side of one channel. I flushed it thinking the bits were loose, but I think they are just burrs. I had waited so long for the thing I just said F it and installed anyway. Hopefully it doesn't cause issues with the plating over time. I'll just keep an eye on it and see.

The block has been in for a week now and (other than that slight concern) I am very happy with the performance. Now if I could only fix the rattling fan on my PSU (it's an oddball size), I'd be happy


----------



## Kashtan

What is difference between signature waterblock and foundation? I mean only temps.


----------



## mmmz

Kashtan said:


> What is difference between signature waterblock and foundation? I mean only temps.











Optimus Signature V2 CPU Block Review


Alongside the Optimus Foundation CPU block, we saw it fit to also cover the company's flagship Signature CPU block. In its second version, the Signature V2 for Intel CPU sockets features to good effect a thick unibody brass top and mounting bracket, as well as the cooling engine and other...




www.techpowerup.com


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Nice. Hopefully B&H got big shipment lol. One big shipment will clear me up


Zen 3 stock locally is starting to normalize a bit here. MC basically perpetually has 25+ each of the 5600X and 5800X everyday. 5900X seems to be the one that's still pretty rare. And 5950X is showing up.


----------



## dwolvin

Nice! I want to rebuild with a 5800/5900, but the reviews make the 5600 so tempting...


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, those are some extra nickel flakes on some tiny burrs, we noticed them a few times and will be double checking all the blocks to make sure they get blown off. They're easy to brush off if you want to, they won't hurt anything.


----------



## Eulerian

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, those are some extra nickel flakes on some tiny burrs, we noticed them a few times and will be double checking all the blocks to make sure they get blown off. They're easy to brush off if you want to, they won't hurt anything.


Do I need to remove the top + use a metal file to scrape off the burrs or anything to that effect? Standalone they don't seem to be loose if I e.g. shake the block around or anything like that - they're all currently attached. Just want to make sure I understand what I should or shouldn't do with this.


----------



## Phroz3

dwolvin said:


> Nice! I want to rebuild with a 5800/5900, but the reviews make the 5600 so tempting...


The 5600 did look tempting but it'd be awkward going from my 8 core 2700x to a 6 core cpu. I'm still in awe that I was able to get a 5900x from the amd drop this morning.


----------



## Optimus WC

Eulerian said:


> Do I need to remove the top + use a metal file to scrape off the burrs or anything to that effect? Standalone they don't seem to be loose if I e.g. shake the block around or anything like that - they're all currently attached. Just want to make sure I understand what I should or shouldn't do with this.


Try flushing with water first. At most, you can remove the top and use the plastic spatula to scrape them off. It won't affect the system in any way regardless, it's just aesthetic.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Phroz3 said:


> The 5600 did look tempting but it'd be awkward going from my 8 core 2700x to a 6 core cpu. I'm still in awe that I was able to get a 5900x from the amd drop this morning.


I wanted a 5900X, but after looking at all the benchmarks, the most I'll be doing is gaming so 5600X seemed acceptable. I got it before 5800X was plentiful around here but honestly I think it'll be fine. And I am coming from a 4 core 4790k so it's fine for me.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Apparently some people had luck on modmymods. 40days wait and cheapest of the group. Otherwise dazmode. You got to likely join the wait list. Aquacomputer 100euro shipping only option killed them as option


I ended up filing a CC dispute with ModMyMods. I ordered from there and it said in stock ready to ship. They took my money then Im waiting for shipping notification and it never came. Called them and they said they had no stock, Dont ask me why but I took a screen shot of the in stock ready to ship. Called them and they said they had no idea when they would be getting more, could be 90 days or more if at all. I told them to just cancel the order and they wanted to charge me 10% for clicking the cancel button.........oh Heyall NO! Told them no thank you that Id just file it with the CC company. Sean in their sales laughed at me and said good luck with that and hung up. They wont be seeing any more of my business. Found out that its a small shop too and for the most part everything is drop shipped, they don't stock much of anything. Dazmode Ive done a lot of business with and had a similar incident some time ago and they cancelled no problems, very friendly. Ive not had any issues out of PPCs. I call Duke and he knows who it is just from my voice. If something isn't right he makes it right then gives me at least a 15% off. They get the bulk of my business in WC parts. Their free shipping is the same time as the upgrade to UPS. I generally get it 3 days later If I order in the morning and shoot Duke an email to make sure it gets out same day. If its later in the day then its 4 days later. I pay the $2.99 or whatever it is for rush processing. Small dent when orders are generally $300-$500 at a time and sometimes more.
Another one Ill give accolades to is aquacomputer. Although you cant find an OCTO to save your life one of their recent updates, think it was X23 that they pulled quick, fast and in a hurry borked my Octo that I just happened to buy from them. They sent out a replacement the next day from Germany and I had it 2 days later with an apology. Asked if they wanted the old one back and they said they already knew what happened and the FW was borked and can be fixed anyhow so chunk it.....Which I did as soon as I got the new one.

The Next Flow meter I got on fleabay. It was a little inflated but with free shipping it came out to less than the flat rate ordering direct from Aquacomputer so Im good with that. Yeah I saw one listed for over $300......I just laughed.

aquatuning is saying 3/12-3/14 on the next flowmeter.


----------



## Section31

For all those in canada and doing waterparts orders (waterblocks, pumps, res, anything non-fittings). I highly suggest you organize group buys in your various regions, its only way to save now through splitting costs of shipping and in some cases qualifying for free shipping.

Right now theres chance my heatkiller group buy will have an west coast and east coast option. Got couple ppl joining in for cheaper gpu blocks and rads.

Even for optimus helps, instead of paying 45usd shipping just for one block, i paid 22usd shipping since me and my friend split the shipping


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I ended up filing a CC dispute with ModMyMods. I ordered from there and it said in stock ready to ship. They took my money then Im waiting for shipping notification and it never came. Called them and they said they had no stock, Dont ask me why but I took a screen shot of the in stock ready to ship. Called them and they said they had no idea when they would be getting more, could be 90 days or more if at all. I told them to just cancel the order and they wanted to charge me 10% for clicking the cancel button.........oh Heyall NO! Told them no thank you that Id just file it with the CC company. Sean in their sales laughed at me and said good luck with that and hung up. They wont be seeing any more of my business. Found out that its a small shop too and for the most part everything is drop shipped, they don't stock much of anything. Dazmode Ive done a lot of business with and had a similar incident some time ago and they cancelled no problems, very friendly. Ive not had any issues out of PPCs. I call Duke and he knows who it is just from my voice. If something isn't right he makes it right then gives me at least a 15% off. They get the bulk of my business in WC parts. Their free shipping is the same time as the upgrade to UPS. I generally get it 3 days later If I order in the morning and shoot Duke an email to make sure it gets out same day. If its later in the day then its 4 days later. I pay the $2.99 or whatever it is for rush processing. Small dent when orders are generally $300-$500 at a time and sometimes more.
> Another one Ill give accolades to is aquacomputer. Although you cant find an OCTO to save your life one of their recent updates, think it was X23 that they pulled quick, fast and in a hurry borked my Octo that I just happened to buy from them. They sent out a replacement the next day from Germany and I had it 2 days later with an apology. Asked if they wanted the old one back and they said they already knew what happened and the FW was borked and can be fixed anyhow so chunk it.....Which I did as soon as I got the new one.
> 
> The Next Flow meter I got on fleabay. It was a little inflated but with free shipping it came out to less than the flat rate ordering direct from Aquacomputer so Im good with that. Yeah I saw one listed for over $300......I just laughed.
> 
> aquatuning is saying 3/12-3/14 on the next flowmeter.


Good info. Sadly no free shipping unless canadians can send it to postal box/us friends/us address and bring back yourself. Can’t avoid shipping and taxes unless you buy from vendor in asia thats known to underreport value of shipped goods. 

Only free shipping option are 700cad plus at aquatuning and 400euro orders at heatkiller germany


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> For all those in canada and doing waterparts orders (waterblocks, pumps, res, anything non-fittings). I highly suggest you organize group buys in your various regions, its only way to save now through splitting costs of shipping and in some cases qualifying for free shipping.
> 
> Right now theres chance my heatkiller group buy will have an west coast and east coast option. Got couple ppl joining in for cheaper gpu blocks and rads.
> 
> Even for optimus helps, instead of paying 45usd shipping just for one block, i paid 22usd shipping since me and my friend split the shipping


Just dont use UPS or you get killed with the brokerage fees! Been there and done that!


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Just dont use UPS or you get killed with the brokerage fees! Been there and done that!


That and im wondering if this can be used on pc parts (i would order local pc/enuthiast stuff that i don’t mind being stuck in hong kong for pickup by me). 









HK$5,000 digital voucher scheme aimed at boosting Hong Kong’s economy


Government will distribute handouts via electronic platforms, with adult permanent residents and new arrivals getting HK$1,000 a month for five months.




www.scmp.com


----------



## Eulerian

Update: Was able to get all the major burrs/jagged stuff out of the block. Stuff chipped off very easily.


----------



## Kashtan

mmmz said:


> Optimus Signature V2 CPU Block Review
> 
> 
> Alongside the Optimus Foundation CPU block, we saw it fit to also cover the company's flagship Signature CPU block. In its second version, the Signature V2 for Intel CPU sockets features to good effect a thick unibody brass top and mounting bracket, as well as the cooling engine and other...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techpowerup.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2480227


Thank you, i know this review, i mean anybody else a make really review with comparing? 0.15 C delta degrees for almost twice overprice - you know, not much of fun.


----------



## whaleboy_4096

Eulerian said:


> Update: Was able to get all the major burrs/jagged stuff out of the block. Stuff chipped off very easily.


I assume you had to disassemble the block? I would have tried, but I was worried that it would have been a pain to re-assemble.


----------



## criskoe

whaleboy_4096 said:


> I assume you had to disassemble the block? I would have tried, but I was worried that it would have been a pain to re-assemble.


My guess is if it chips off as easy as @Eulerian says, your defiantly gunna want take the time and disassemble and scrape it out. Cause they will become dislodged overtime and be floating around your loop and get stuck somewhere else if you don’t. Unless you got a easy access filter installed somewhere in your loop.. 

Maybe I’m alone but I don’t think a block this expensive should have to deal with that. @Optimus WC i hope this gets flagged in your QC check from now on and taken care of in assembly from now on...


----------



## Darb

JustinThyme said:


> I ended up filing a CC dispute with ModMyMods. I ordered from there and it said in stock ready to ship. They took my money then Im waiting for shipping notification and it never came. Called them and they said they had no stock, Dont ask me why but I took a screen shot of the in stock ready to ship. Called them and they said they had no idea when they would be getting more, could be 90 days or more if at all. I told them to just cancel the order and they wanted to charge me 10% for clicking the cancel button.........oh Heyall NO! Told them no thank you that Id just file it with the CC company. Sean in their sales laughed at me and said good luck with that and hung up. They wont be seeing any more of my business. Found out that its a small shop too and for the most part everything is drop shipped, they don't stock much of anything. Dazmode Ive done a lot of business with and had a similar incident some time ago and they cancelled no problems, very friendly. Ive not had any issues out of PPCs. I call Duke and he knows who it is just from my voice. If something isn't right he makes it right then gives me at least a 15% off. They get the bulk of my business in WC parts. Their free shipping is the same time as the upgrade to UPS. I generally get it 3 days later If I order in the morning and shoot Duke an email to make sure it gets out same day. If its later in the day then its 4 days later. I pay the $2.99 or whatever it is for rush processing. Small dent when orders are generally $300-$500 at a time and sometimes more.
> Another one Ill give accolades to is aquacomputer. Although you cant find an OCTO to save your life one of their recent updates, think it was X23 that they pulled quick, fast and in a hurry borked my Octo that I just happened to buy from them. They sent out a replacement the next day from Germany and I had it 2 days later with an apology. Asked if they wanted the old one back and they said they already knew what happened and the FW was borked and can be fixed anyhow so chunk it.....Which I did as soon as I got the new one.
> 
> The Next Flow meter I got on fleabay. It was a little inflated but with free shipping it came out to less than the flat rate ordering direct from Aquacomputer so Im good with that. Yeah I saw one listed for over $300......I just laughed.
> 
> aquatuning is saying 3/12-3/14 on the next flowmeter.


I have not dealt with MyMods but have dealt with Dazmode many times. Excellent service from Daz. Also have a few orders from PPC with no problems. On the waitlist for the Next Flow at both Daz and Aqua.


----------



## Optimus WC

criskoe said:


> My guess is if it chips off as easy as @Eulerian says, your defiantly gunna want take the time and disassemble and scrape it out. Cause they will become dislodged overtime and be floating around your loop and get stuck somewhere else if you don’t. Unless you got a easy access filter installed somewhere in your loop..
> 
> Maybe I’m alone but I don’t think a block this expensive should have to deal with that. @Optimus WC i hope this gets flagged in your QC check from now on and taken care of in assembly from now on...


Definitely. We've already implemented two new checkpoints for this.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC how much longer for the KPE block?


----------



## Darkstar757

Optimus I ordered my FTw block in November its almost March what is going on? Where is my block?


----------



## straha20

Darb said:


> I have not dealt with MyMods but have dealt with Dazmode many times. Excellent service from Daz. Also have a few orders from PPC with no problems. On the waitlist for the Next Flow at both Daz and Aqua.


PPC's has always been great for me. Granted, out of their control, but man, FedEx has been struggling here. I placed an order Monday morning. 2nd day air mind you. Arrived at the FedEx origin facility in Melbourne FL at 7:56pm. 2nd Day air, next update was just this morning. 2nd day air took four days to make the 70 mile journey to Orlando. It still has to make here to Illinois. And this isn't the only one like this with FedEx recently.


----------



## Eulerian

whaleboy_4096 said:


> I assume you had to disassemble the block? I would have tried, but I was worried that it would have been a pain to re-assemble.


Yes -- but it's very easy to disassemble/reassemble.

I'd definitely recommend doing it - I barely had to apply any pressure at all using the plastic spatula to dislodge the burrs.

I didn't get a picture but there was a lot of debris in the end. I can only speak to my block, but I have no doubt this would have largely come loose over time with coolant washing through it repeatedly.


----------



## rayuma

Disappointing to see that the November batch is still waiting on their FTW3 blocks. It now looks like that ETA for the 1/29 batch was a blatant lie.


----------



## rayuma

When you can't even fulfill November's orders, how is a three week turn around a good faith estimate? It looks like they just put it out there to get orders from people out of the loop.


----------



## Shawnb99

rayuma said:


> When you can't even fulfill November's orders, how is a three week turn around a good faith estimate? It looks like they just put it out there to get orders from people out of the loop.


Ah looks like. No need to have actual proof. Looks like is what we’re going with!!


----------



## Darb

straha20 said:


> PPC's has always been great for me. Granted, out of their control, but man, FedEx has been struggling here. I placed an order Monday morning. 2nd day air mind you. Arrived at the FedEx origin facility in Melbourne FL at 7:56pm. 2nd Day air, next update was just this morning. 2nd day air took four days to make the 70 mile journey to Orlando. It still has to make here to Illinois. And this isn't the only one like this with FedEx recently.


I feel you pain! Order from PPC January 16th. Also FedEx priority. Just checked, still sitting in Orlando Florida. Called multiple times and they always use the weather excuse.


----------



## Darkstar757

Shawnb99 said:


> Ah looks like. No need to have actual proof. Looks like is what we’re going with!!


When you tell people two week and dont its a lie. Flat out.


----------



## ToWi

Paying 50 usd for next day international delivery to find out 'in stock' items take 2 weeks+ to ship out...


----------



## Section31

ToWi said:


> Paying 50 usd for next day international delivery to find out 'in stock' items take 2 weeks+ to ship out...


Its too bad they went dhl only. When it was usps, rates were lower and for canadian, processing fees were lower. My first couple of cpu blocks didn’t incur any sales tax. Unfortunately usps rates went up a lot and its service quality gone done.

I prefer national carriers with longer delays because it costs less overall.


----------



## mongoled

ToWi said:


> Paying 50 usd for next day international delivery to find out 'in stock' items take 2 weeks+ to ship out...


Thats disgusting, you should demand they refund those monies!


----------



## m4fox90

Darkstar757 said:


> Optimus I ordered my FTw block in November its almost March what is going on? Where is my block?


I feel really bad for you guys, especially if you're waiting to assemble your rig still. The lack of transparency and honesty is going to crush their brand, unfortunately. People will only put up with so much.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Try flushing with water first. At most, you can remove the top and use the plastic spatula to scrape them off. It won't affect the system in any way regardless, it's just aesthetic.


Thanks for the tip, i will try that to clean off the copper that got stuck to my cpu block.


----------



## ToWi

Section31 said:


> Its too bad they went dhl only. When it was usps, rates were lower and for canadian, processing fees were lower. My first couple of cpu blocks didn’t incur any sales tax. Unfortunately usps rates went up a lot and its service quality gone done.
> 
> I prefer national carriers with longer delays because it costs less overall.


I wouldn't have minded a 2 weeks shipping time for less $, as long as orders would be shipped out next day. I'm expecting my 3090 fe block next weekend and want to finish my build, so I'll cancel the optimus order if it hasn't shipped by then.

Optimus should be up font with these things. It pisses me off having to find out by searching on forums that this seems to be common practice.


----------



## Section31

m4fox90 said:


> I feel really bad for you guys, especially if you're waiting to assemble your rig still. The lack of transparency and honesty is going to crush their brand, unfortunately. People will only put up with so much.


All good points made. Things are like that globally and its also sign the logistics companies, and supply chain have to do better too. They got to invest in better infrastructure, etc to meet the growing global demands


----------



## Section31

ToWi said:


> I wouldn't have minded a 2 weeks shipping time for less $, as long as orders would be shipped out next day. I'm expecting my 3090 fe block next weekend and want to finish my build, so I'll cancel the optimus order if it hasn't shipped by then.
> 
> Optimus should be up font with these things. It pisses me off having to find out by searching on forums that this seems to be common practice.


I get you. Its actually increasingly common around the globe. Large parts of daily lives goods and services suffering from long delays and increased customer unhappiness.


----------



## m4fox90

Section31 said:


> I get you. Its actually increasingly common around the globe. Large parts of daily lives goods and services suffering from long delays and increased customer unhappiness.


The really wild thing of it is, we're not that far removed from a time when multiple weeks of shipping and handling was the norm. We've mentally adjusted so quickly to 2-day shipping it's especially jarring when that pattern is broken.


----------



## Section31

m4fox90 said:


> The really wild thing of it is, we're not that far removed from a time when multiple weeks of shipping and handling was the norm. We've mentally adjusted so quickly to 2-day shipping it's especially jarring when that pattern is broken.


Yup i deal with it at work. They want new computers, monitors, keyboard when even if i can order it takes weeks to months for what we want to come in. I just bought one of those lenovo mini pcs with ryzen 4650ge apu for the office and i ain’t getting one till end of june.


----------



## ToWi

m4fox90 said:


> The really wild thing of it is, we're not that far removed from a time when multiple weeks of shipping and handling was the norm. We've mentally adjusted so quickly to 2-day shipping it's especially jarring when that pattern is broken.


The weird thing is... even aliexpress orders are coming in within 2 weeks and without having to pay import duties. That always used to take 2 months.


----------



## chispy

Hello , I have just bought and received my first Optimus Foundation Intel water block. I needed it something to really get the most out of my LGA 2066 HDET Platform cpus and HK-4 or XSPC Pro was not cutting it anymore. I only use this big chips for my hobby of competitive benchmarking for hwbot.

It will be used on a very strong water chiller at -21c in order to get the highest stable overclock for benchmarking purposes only. Since i'm totally new to this water block i have a few questions and i need some help and guidance to get the most and highest stable oc out of this cpus - 9980xe 18c 36t , 7960x 16c 32t , 7940x 14c 28t. On my chiller loop i have a super strong industrial water pump Pan World 200PS ( Max Flow: 1744 gph - Max Head: 39ft ). I have used for many years on many water blocks , some very restrictive and others not so , and the Pump has no problem with any of them.

Will orientation mount matter on this big cpus on lga 2066 with the Optimus Foundation? , Would lapping the ihs on all this cpus help heat transfer as most are convex and not totally flat so that it can get better contact with the flat plate on the water block ? Lastly , any mods to help squeezed those last few degrees of temperatures with this Foundation wb ? I do not care about warranty as this will be used only in sub-sero temperatures. Thank you in advanced for any guidance , help and answer to my questions.

Kind Regards: Angelo


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys,

GPU TIME FRAMES: Every block has been machined, groups are in plating and anodizing and getting shipped as soon as we get them back. Like mentioned in the previous preorders, the time frame is what we're aiming for, but if something happens outside of our control, it will delay things. So we got a run of GPU copper midplates that were wrecked by the nickel plating. So we get delayed there by a week or so. 

The good news is we're definitely moving through the production faster and clearing up the backlog. So right now we have a surplus of blocks in the pipeline. The timing is due to all the additional work that happens after the machining.


----------



## Phroz3

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> GPU TIME FRAMES: Every block has been machined, groups are in plating and anodizing and getting shipped as soon as we get them back. Like mentioned in the previous preorders, the time frame is what we're aiming for, but if something happens outside of our control, it will delay things. So we got a run of GPU copper midplates that were wrecked by the nickel plating. So we get delayed there by a week or so.
> 
> The good news is we're definitely moving through the production faster and clearing up the backlog. So right now we have a surplus of blocks in the pipeline. The timing is due to all the additional work that happens after the machining.


Will you be done shipping out batch 2 today? If not when do you think that will happen? I am one of the first orders of batch 3. Thanks, Ira


----------



## Eulerian

At least for me, the issue has never been the wait / the delays. Over in the mechanical keyboard community, there are several group-buys I am a part of that are coming up on a year now, and they are relatively stress-free overall because the vendors provided timely updates and managed expectations appropriately.

Even though this block took relatively less time (a bit under four months), it was a more stressful transaction overall. I would have much rather been told "Hey this block will take a while, probably shipping in Q1 2021. As we close in, we'll let you know more if things change." Then I could have blissfully directed my attention elsewhere for several months without issue.

But when you are being told "Finishing up next week" every single week, for weeks on end, you're not really being allowed to do that - you're constantly being told to come back in anticipation of a shipment, only for nothing to happen. And then when new orders are being taken in with promises of quick turnaround, with many orders still outstanding, and emails going unanswered - it's a frustrating process.

The alternative would have been to simply ignore anything they say and wait for a shipping email someday. But even that is a risk, considering what happened to the 2080 ti block. Which, by the way, is still up for preorder on the site despite not being a real product, and despite Optimus themselves saying they have no real plans to go back and make them, either.

It's unclear to me why turnaround promises are always so consistently aggressive and over-optimistic when the process takes way more time. Even by their own admission, blocks take a long time to make. We've all heard the often-repeated "We're always speeding up, delays happen, etc." But why the unrealistic timeline quoting? Just because you may "aim" for a couple weeks doesn't mean it's a good-faith, realistic estimate. And in particular, why no attempt to change when it clearly frustrates people?

Even over in Discord they have joked about all these complaints in the past, so it's not like they haven't heard all this before. But that's what I find concerning - is that they are aware of all of this, and understand all of this, but continue to do it anyway, and then not address or talk about it.

I don't know -- seeing all those burrs on my block honestly upset me. Optimus, you guys are supposed to be the experts in this equation. I shouldn't have to be the one to find these issues, and I shouldn't have to come to online forums to get a response.

If blocks are going to take a while because of really stringent QC (a noble standard otherwise) to the point where entire batches are being rejected and redone, that's all fine and well -- but then if I get a block where my untrained eyes can see a very obvious (and possibly destructive) QC issue within 5 seconds of opening the box, it makes me wonder.

I'm not going to speculate on motives, but some of this stuff still doesn't make sense even in the context of Covid, even in the context of being a small company. If things are taking longer because of QC standards, why are there still major QC issues? If blocks are still taking a long time to make, why quote such quick turnaround times? If deadlines are always failing to get met, why continue to quote in the same way? If customers are clearly frustrated with this manner of communication, why remain radio silent on the matter?


----------



## Sir Beregond

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> GPU TIME FRAMES: Every block has been machined, groups are in plating and anodizing and getting shipped as soon as we get them back. Like mentioned in the previous preorders, the time frame is what we're aiming for, but if something happens outside of our control, it will delay things. So we got a run of GPU copper midplates that were wrecked by the nickel plating. So we get delayed there by a week or so.
> 
> The good news is we're definitely moving through the production faster and clearing up the backlog. So right now we have a surplus of blocks in the pipeline. The timing is due to all the additional work that happens after the machining.


How about the CPU blocks? Today marks 2 weeks since I ordered one from your post here. Did see the message on the site to expect 1-2 weeks for shipping out. So just curious if it's going out today or if not how much longer to expect. Not a big deal for me as not the only block I am waiting for, but just figured I'd ask.



Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> GPU and AMD blocks for sale right now.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> GPU TIME FRAMES: Every block has been machined, groups are in plating and anodizing and getting shipped as soon as we get them back. Like mentioned in the previous preorders, the time frame is what we're aiming for, but if something happens outside of our control, it will delay things. So we got a run of GPU copper midplates that were wrecked by the nickel plating. So we get delayed there by a week or so.
> 
> The good news is we're definitely moving through the production faster and clearing up the backlog. So right now we have a surplus of blocks in the pipeline. The timing is due to all the additional work that happens after the machining.


More often than not, it appears that things happen beyond your control. You have enough data points to take that into account with your ETA's now. You have you best case scenario that you aim for, but know that is almost certainly not going to be achieved. You know where the delay points beyond your control are, and you know how long those delays usually are.

So for instance, ideal might be two weeks. But you know that there is a virtual certainty that you will not come close to meeting that ETA, that things beyond your control will delay that another two weeks, so rather than give a two week ETA, give a five week ETA so that the realistic best case will have things going out ahead of the ETA, and the more realistic ETA might actually be met.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> GPU TIME FRAMES: Every block has been machined, groups are in plating and anodizing and getting shipped as soon as we get them back. Like mentioned in the previous preorders, the time frame is what we're aiming for, but if something happens outside of our control, it will delay things. So we got a run of GPU copper midplates that were wrecked by the nickel plating. So we get delayed there by a week or so.
> 
> The good news is we're definitely moving through the production faster and clearing up the backlog. So right now we have a surplus of blocks in the pipeline. The timing is due to all the additional work that happens after the machining.


Thanks for the update. Good of you to provide updates. I maybe suggest you guys open an official thread/rely on other platform. 

I am seriously wondering if time to ask mods to delete this thread.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Thanks for the update. Good of you to provide updates. I maybe suggest you guys open an official thread/rely on other platform.
> 
> I am seriously wondering if time to ask mods to delete this thread.


I'd rather you didn't. It's a good place for us to discuss what we are doing with our blocks and what not. I mean if you do, one of us is just going to start a copy of this thread. If you don't want to be a part of it you may be able to unsub but not sure as you are the OP.


----------



## straha20

Section31 said:


> Thanks for the update. Good of you to provide updates. I maybe suggest you guys open an official thread/rely on other platform.
> 
> I am seriously wondering if time to ask mods to delete this thread.


While this thread does tend to wander in less pleasant directions, one thing I like is that when there is good news, there is good discussion. There are questions asked and answered by those of us who follow the thread. We get to see cool pictures.

I think that a lot of the positives that do pop up in this thread would never be seen without it.


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> While this thread does tend to wander in less pleasant directions, one thing I like is that when there is good news, there is good discussion. There are questions asked and answered by those of us who follow the thread. We get to see cool pictures.
> 
> I think that a lot of the positives that do pop up in this thread would never be seen without it.


You're famous on twitter! Optimus tweeted your pic.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> I'd rather you didn't. It's a good place for us to discuss what we are doing with our blocks and what not. I mean if you do, one of us is just going to start a copy of this thread. If you don't want to be a part of it you may be able to unsub but not sure as you are the OP.


I'm the original creator of the thread and I agree with you its good place to talk. Its one of the nice features of the community and we all learn things from each other. Unfortunately we have some random episodes that occur too frequently that threads experience becomes more negative. I understand its difficult to control as its human nature. I think its maybe good idea to spilt off the thread into two, one for all of us to chat and one to handle the customer care center.


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> You're famous on twitter! Optimus tweeted your pic.


Oh yeah? Ha! Might just have to get me a twitter account...or not


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> I'm the original creator of the thread and I agree with you its good place to talk. Its one of the nice features of the community and we all learn things from each other. Unfortunately we have some random episodes that occur too frequently that threads experience becomes more negative. I understand its difficult to control as its human nature. I think its maybe good idea to spilt off the thread into two, one for all of us to chat and one to handle the customer care center.


I don't think it should be split because honestly, the customer care for Optimus should be coming from Optimus themselves. It is not fair to the customers that are not on this forum for them to just cater to us. It is nice to have them drop in from time to time though and ask our suggestions or give updates.


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> Oh yeah? Ha! Might just have to get me a twitter account...or not


Mine is basically a burner account haha. I think someone started following me the other day though so I may be internet famous shortly.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> I don't think it should be split because honestly, the customer care for Optimus should be coming from Optimus themselves. It is not fair to the customers that are not on this forum for them to just cater to us. It is nice to have them drop in from time to time though and ask our suggestions or give updates.


Hopefully things smooth out so we have less of those episodes and more about the product experience (help for ppl in need) and watercooling in general.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Hopefully things smooth out so we have less of those episodes and more about the product experience (help for ppl in need) and watercooling in general.


Right. Patience is a virtue and not everyone has it. Same with understanding. Both sides have a point but civility is a must. There are much bigger things to worry about other than when a GPU block will arrive at your doorstep.


----------



## sakete

I will not be needing any kind of waterblock for at least another 2-3 years as my system will stay as is until then (unless something dies prematurely). At that point I'll see if Optimus is still around. If they've ironed out their ordering/production issues / communication / etc by then, I'll give them another shot. If not, I'll just go to the competitor.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> I will not be needing any kind of waterblock for at least another 2-3 years as my system will stay as is until then (unless something dies prematurely). At that point I'll see if Optimus is still around. If they've ironed out their ordering/production issues / communication / etc by then, I'll give them another shot. If not, I'll just go to the competitor.


Couple of us in this boat. Get these builds done sit out till next round. Though i admit, its tempting just to be in reselling pc parts business in this frame and re-enter at end of the year at lower prices.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Couple of us in this boat. Get these builds done sit out till next round. Though i admit, its tempting just to be in reselling pc parts business in this frame and re-enter at end of the year at lower prices.


Yeah right now I am sitting on parts waiting to do new build. 2 blocks ordered. But still need to get RAM and drives, rads, fans, and haven't decided if I am going to try hardline or stick to soft tubing.

Meant to ask you, what's special about those Heatkiller rads you were waiting on?


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Yeah right now I am sitting on parts waiting to do new build. 2 blocks ordered. But still need to get RAM and drives, rads, fans, and haven't decided if I am going to try hardline or stick to soft tubing.
> 
> Meant to ask you, what's special about those Heatkiller rads you were waiting on?


There isn't anything really special about them, radiators are more or less at there limits. More that for hobby ppl/builders, its nice to have new rads to play with that look nice and should perform decently. The current selection out there will perfectly serve you and likely is more affordable.

I like doing hybrid builds since I experiment with new stuff. Hybrid are mixture of hard and soft tubing with quick disconnects at key points. However you can't go wrong with any choice.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> There isn't anything really special about them, radiators are more or less at there limits. More that for hobby ppl/builders, its nice to have new rads to play with that look nice and should perform decently. The current selection out there will perfectly serve you and likely is more affordable.
> 
> I like doing hybrid builds since I experiment with new stuff. Hybrid are mixture of hard and soft tubing with quick disconnects at key points. However you can't go wrong with any choice.


Quick disconnects are heaven!


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Quick disconnects are heaven!


Whatever happened with the person here that was going to get cpc colder lq6 qdc?


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> I will not be needing any kind of waterblock for at least another 2-3 years as my system will stay as is until then (unless something dies prematurely). At that point I'll see if Optimus is still around. If they've ironed out their ordering/production issues / communication / etc by then, I'll give them another shot. If not, I'll just go to the competitor.


I think no product is perfect. Just read couple of recent posts on hardwareluxx heatkiller product forum. Similar nature to some of what goes on here.









WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo


@Sladen Bei mir sind die Pads, die dabei waren nicht rosa und Ram Temp ist bei ca 65-70 Grad. Pads sehen aus wie in dem Video hier: Bei mir waren die rosa pads dabei... Kompletter Müll... Muss ich nicht verstehen wieso watercool verschiedene pads beim gleichen kühler raus schickt...




www.hardwareluxx.de


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> I think no product is perfect. Just read couple of recent posts on hardwareluxx heatkiller product forum. Similar nature to some of what goes on here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo
> 
> 
> @Sladen Bei mir sind die Pads, die dabei waren nicht rosa und Ram Temp ist bei ca 65-70 Grad. Pads sehen aus wie in dem Video hier: Bei mir waren die rosa pads dabei... Kompletter Müll... Muss ich nicht verstehen wieso watercool verschiedene pads beim gleichen kühler raus schickt...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hardwareluxx.de


Yep. People were getting all kinds of upset on the EVGA forums back in December when EK delayed their blocks. If you cannot stand issues happening 2020-2021 should be avoided for PC building lol. I've went all in in the past few months. Upgraded GPU, RAM, Fans, Case, Radiator and CPU haha. CPU and RAM are on their way now. Just waiting on the GPU block like most of us here. It's been a fun journey. It's turning out nice I think. Cookie cutter case but I really don't care that everyone else has it.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Phroz3 said:


> Yep. People were getting all kinds of upset on the EVGA forums back in December when EK delayed their blocks. If you cannot stand issues happening 2020-2021 should be avoided for PC building lol. I've went all in in the past few months. Upgraded GPU, RAM, Fans, Case, Radiator and CPU haha. CPU and RAM are on their way now. Just waiting on the GPU block like most of us here. It's been a fun journey. It's turning out nice I think. Cookie cutter case but I really don't care that everyone else has it.


Man, seeing that 3080 or 3090 with the Optimus FTW block in a vertical mount a few pages back does make me sometimes regret not getting the XL version of the O11-D. Ah well.


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> Yep. People were getting all kinds of upset on the EVGA forums back in December when EK delayed their blocks. If you cannot stand issues happening 2020-2021 should be avoided for PC building lol. I've went all in in the past few months. Upgraded GPU, RAM, Fans, Case, Radiator and CPU haha. CPU and RAM are on their way now. Just waiting on the GPU block like most of us here. It's been a fun journey. It's turning out nice I think. Cookie cutter case but I really don't care that everyone else has it.


I started out just going to upgrade my 1080ti to a 3080. Here I am, some months later, and I will have replaced everything in my system except for the case itself. That includes all of the water cooling parts as well. I guess I kept some of my fan grills as well.

What I am left with now is a spare system of a Ryzen 3800x, 1080ti and 64gb ram, and all the parts to watercool it. I do have an old emachines case down in my basement. Might be time for a sleeper build...


----------



## Sir Beregond

So in the block race, GPU block wins. 2 weeks into the AM4 block being "in stock" when ordered and not shipped per the 1-2 week timeframe listed on website still.

I double-checked my email tonight and saw PPCs shipped the Alphacool GPU block I pre-ordered.

Oh well, still plenty I need to work on getting for the new rig. I guess we'll see if the AM4 block ships by then. If not I'll just use the Corsair block I have in the meantime until it shows up. Not a big deal, but just providing another data point.


----------



## Eulerian

What are people doing for LEDs on their GPU blocks, if any? (in terms of placement)


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> I started out just going to upgrade my 1080ti to a 3080. Here I am, some months later, and I will have replaced everything in my system except for the case itself. That includes all of the water cooling parts as well. I guess I kept some of my fan grills as well.
> 
> What I am left with now is a spare system of a Ryzen 3800x, 1080ti and 64gb ram, and all the parts to watercool it. I do have an old emachines case down in my basement. Might be time for a sleeper build...


Funny how that stuff steamrolls isn't it lol? I ordered a couple gen4 m.2 drives last night so the only thing missing to have another system was a motherboard so I ordered one of those too haha. Taking the opportunity to upgrade my kids' computer. They already have my old o11 dynamic and what not. Now they will have a 2700x on a tuf mobo with 16gb of dom plats lol. Gives me another opportunity to take their old 6 core AMD 1090t and repurpose that to replace my aging plex server.


----------



## Phroz3

Sir Beregond said:


> Man, seeing that 3080 or 3090 with the Optimus FTW block in a vertical mount a few pages back does make me sometimes regret not getting the XL version of the O11-D. Ah well.


Yeah I had the regular o11 dynamic. I had the choice to go with whatever case I wanted to upgrade to but I really like this design. Just needed it to be bigger for the larger rad and 3090.


----------



## Phroz3

Eulerian said:


> What are people doing for LEDs on their GPU blocks, if any? (in terms of placement)


I am doing vertical so it is a bit easier for placement but my plan is to silicone some little silicone clips on the bottom edge of the acrylic and run a strip along there. It'll work just like Straha's just a different mounting mechanism. Fyi, there are some really skinny (7-8mm) rbg strips available on aliexpress or ebay. I ordered from both to see which would show up faster.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> Yeah I had the regular o11 dynamic. I had the choice to go with whatever case I wanted to upgrade to but I really like this design. Just needed it to be bigger for the larger rad and 3090.


Lianli becoming more and more the successor to caselabs.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Lianli becoming more and more the successor to caselabs.


I am not as afraid of lian li going out of business though. They have been around forever. I never really knew about caselabs till recently. Going for insane money on ebay. That STH10, daddy wants.









Caselabs STH10 With Pedestal and Acessories: Case Modded For Watercooling | eBay


Condition is "Used". (See pictures and details below) CASE IS SOLD "AS IS". One area behind a radiator cover where the pedestal attaches to the bottom of the case has a slight powder coating chip due to wear (see picture).



www.ebay.com


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> I am not as afraid of lian li going out of business though. They have been around forever. I never really knew about caselabs till recently. Going for insane money on ebay. That STH10, daddy wants.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Caselabs STH10 With Pedestal and Acessories: Case Modded For Watercooling | eBay
> 
> 
> Condition is "Used". (See pictures and details below) CASE IS SOLD "AS IS". One area behind a radiator cover where the pedestal attaches to the bottom of the case has a slight powder coating chip due to wear (see picture).
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com


I plan on getting the v3000+ if its good. Cost wise i estimate i can come out cost neutral as my caselabs s8 can sell for a lot too


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> I plan on getting the v3000+ if its good. Cost wise i estimate i can come out cost neutral as my caselabs s8 can sell for a lot too


Has the MSRP been released?


----------



## sakete

Phroz3 said:


> Has the MSRP been released?


No, but I'd be surprised if it's more than $400-$500. I just hope it will be a really flexible case. I want tons of space for cable management, tons of space for HDDs (at least 6, but preferably 9+) in the bottom compartment so it's out of the way and out of sight of the rest of the build, and then tons of space for mounting/sticking controllers in the bottom compartment as well (think Aquaero, Octo, etc.). I just want it to be a really flexible do everything case.

In my current Phanteks case it's impossible to neatly have all cables out of sight, as the space behind the motherboard tray is very limited. And the HDDs cages are in the main compartment, which is unsightly and reduces airflow.


----------



## Section31

So i created an new thread to handle our general talk/discussion that goes on here. Lets see if that helps the experience here.

Keep the customer service stuff in this thread. Should help optimus handle all the customer questions.


----------



## jincuteguy

Phroz3 said:


> Yep. People were getting all kinds of upset on the EVGA forums back in December when EK delayed their blocks. If you cannot stand issues happening 2020-2021 should be avoided for PC building lol. I've went all in in the past few months. Upgraded GPU, RAM, Fans, Case, Radiator and CPU haha. CPU and RAM are on their way now. Just waiting on the GPU block like most of us here. It's been a fun journey. It's turning out nice I think. Cookie cutter case but I really don't care that everyone else has it.


What distribution block is that? like the brand?


----------



## Phroz3

jincuteguy said:


> What distribution block is that? like the brand?


Radikult. His name is Mario. Just a guy and his cnc machine. Makes some cool stuff.









SHOP | Radikult Custom







www.radikult-custom.com


----------



## Section31

jincuteguy said:


> What distribution block is that? like the brand?


We have moved to another thread to reduce some of the ranting going on fyi. This thread going to be lot less active going forward. Just Optimus and its cliental.


----------



## Eulerian

Can anyone confirm that their thermal strip distribution looked like this?










The long thin strips in particular - to confirm, I need to cut two of them shorter? And they seem a little skinny for the LR22 sections in particular - I know they expand under pressure but, is it enough / still fine?










Mainly just checking to see if I need to get thermal strips elsewhere or if the included ones are fine for the areas as-indicated.


----------



## straha20

Eulerian said:


> Can anyone confirm that their thermal strip distribution looked like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The long thin strips in particular - to confirm, I need to cut two of them shorter? And they seem a little skinny for the LR22 sections in particular - I know they expand under pressure but, is it enough / still fine?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mainly just checking to see if I need to get thermal strips elsewhere or if the included ones are fine for the areas as-indicated.


Looks just like mine did. I cut them to the appropriate sizes, and they work a treat.


----------



## Optimus WC

Correct, just cut those to length. Fuji is pretty easy to break apart, which is common in the high performance pads. So if you get a rip, it's not a big deal at all, the pads will squish under pressure and melt together again.


----------



## kiikkoman

I was looking to get an optimus block...


----------



## kiikkoman

Optimus WC said:


> Correct, just cut those to length. Fuji is pretty easy to break apart, which is common in the high performance pads. So if you get a rip, it's not a big deal at all, the pads will squish under pressure and melt together again.


What mm thick are those Fuji pads?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

kiikkoman said:


> What mm thick are those Fuji pads?


I've asked this several times without an answer in here. Would really like to know this so I can buy spares. They looked like .5mm to me when I installed my block.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, the pads are 0.5mm on the front, 3mm on the back. They are Fuji GR45 on the front. It's fine if they get a tear, they form together really well and performance isn't affected. Something to know: just the thermal conductivity isn't the only important metric (though that's what's listed most commonly). We'd recommend replacing with Fuji GR series, or other high end brands, not cheaper brands that list big numbers that seem too good to be true


----------



## Kommando Kodiak

Eulerian said:


> Block arrived (OP2968, ordered Nov 4, just arrived today Feb 25th - 3 months and 3 weeks exact):
> 
> I am a little afraid to install the block however because there seems to be an issue - I reached out to Optimus already over email, but no response today - and in general haven't heard back since Jan 19 (my other emails since went unanswered), so I am hoping I can get some advice from others in this thread in the meantime.
> 
> *First, the good news */ general unboxing, looks like everything's there:
> 
> Box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Included itemcount:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thermal pads - hoping it's all good there, haven't checked in-depth yet but this is what arrived:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Block shot from above:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back shot of block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The included thermal paste + spatula + plugs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big thermal pad on the backplate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The backplate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Allen wrenches and screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Onto the not so good news:*
> 
> Giving everything a once-over, I noticed that along the sides there are spiky metal linings that almost looks like debris, or cuts that weren't cleaned up, or something with the plating, I have no idea.
> 
> The main concern to me is that there's a lot of it. I am worried that if I start flushing coolant through this thing, over time it's going to knock loose all these jagged, irregular metal bits -- and damage my blocks, tubing, pump, res, rads, and/or possibly other hardware. Both the left and right sides have this issue but it's much more prominent on the right. Hard to get good pictures, but:
> 
> Upper right side, phone shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right side, phone shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right side, macro lens / camera shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left side, macro lens / camera shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got out the USB microscope to take some closer shots of the big jaggies on the right side - this is the one from the first image, zoomed in:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another one on the same side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another one etc:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In general you see lots of sharp metal bits sticking out every-which-way as you move the block along the microscope. Sort of hard to get better shots because there's only so much space under my microscope, but hopefully it's clear enough.
> 
> My question: Can anyone confirm if this is normal / expected / safe / etc? To anyone else with a block, did yours look like this as well?
> 
> I've put over $10k USD into my PC setup - I definitely don't want metal bits possibly dislodging and wreaking havoc. Do I need to pop off the top acrylic piece and take a metal file to this?
> 
> Can anyone confirm if this is just a cosmetic concern and nothing to worry about, or did this unit not get QC'd properly?
> 
> Would appreciate any advice - thanks!


Id say try a swivel head deburring tool, theyre dirt cheap and easy to use


----------



## ToWi

Any update on the am4 blocks? The product page still has a notification from christmas...


----------



## jincuteguy

Phroz3 said:


> Radikult. His name is Mario. Just a guy and his cnc machine. Makes some cool stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SHOP | Radikult Custom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.radikult-custom.com


Nice man. how's the distro plate quality compare to the ones from EKWB and Singularitycomputers? or Bitspower?


----------



## gengar

jincuteguy said:


> Nice man. how's the distro plate quality compare to the ones from EKWB and Singularitycomputers? or Bitspower?


Very happy with my Radikult O11 360 (original version), seems very high quality.


----------



## monners

I'm running the Dynamic Duo front panel distro/dual res. Can also recommend. No problems.


----------



## Phroz3

gengar said:


> Very happy with my Radikult O11 360 (original version), seems very high quality.


Same here. It is great quality. FYI there is a new general discussion post that we need to move to.


----------



## chibi

Hi @Optimus WC , I ordered an intel copper sig v2 block a while ago, and looking for the nickel cold plate to match your gpu blocks. Can this be ordered separately? I sent a message in through the website 3 weeks ago and no response. Thanks!


----------



## Sir Beregond

Hi @Optimus WC 

Any update on shipping dates for AM4 blocks ordered on 2/12?


----------



## jincuteguy

Hello @Optimus WC 

I ordered an Intel Foundation CPU block and a custom Reservoir system with D5 pump about 3 weeks ago. Do you have any ETA for them? thank you


----------



## straha20

@Optimus WC Coming up on two weeks since I ordered two blemish 8.5" silver and acrylic reservoirs in order #OP3720. Heard a rumor today that blemish reservoirs are on back order. Any truth to that, and I may end up waiting for longer than the 1-2 weeks shipped that the website popup frequently states?


----------



## sakete

straha20 said:


> @Optimus WC Coming up on two weeks since I ordered two blemish 8.5" silver and acrylic reservoirs in order #OP3720. Heard a rumor today that blemish reservoirs are on back order. Any truth to that, and *I may end up waiting for longer than the 1-2 weeks shipped that the website popup frequently states?*


I think you already know the answer to that question


----------



## straha20

sakete said:


> I think you already know the answer to that question


In fairness, my other two blemish reservoirs shipped exactly two weeks after I ordered them, and my fittings shipped exactly one week after I ordered them. I guess there is just enough of a crumb here to keep playing with my emotions


----------



## m4fox90

straha20 said:


> @Optimus WC Coming up on two weeks since I ordered two blemish 8.5" silver and acrylic reservoirs in order #OP3720. Heard a rumor today that blemish reservoirs are on back order. Any truth to that, and I may end up waiting for longer than the 1-2 weeks shipped that the website popup frequently states?


My reservoir purchased Feb 2, Order 3558 D5 reservoir system 8.5in, shipped today. So, you may be in for a few more weeks.


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Does this wait time apply to B-stock items as well?


----------



## Section31

Voodoo Rufus said:


> Does this wait time apply to B-stock items as well?


I think B Stock is suppose to ship fairly fast. It's only if your B-Stock is being shipped with other goods like the GPU waterblocks will you see your wait time be long


----------



## Sir Beregond

Hey guys my AM4 block ordered on 2/12 shipped today. So about 3 weeks was the real time. Which is fine. They should probably change that 1-2 weeks popup on their site though.


----------



## jincuteguy

m4fox90 said:


> My reservoir purchased Feb 2, Order 3558 D5 reservoir system 8.5in, shipped today. So, you may be in for a few more weeks.


Damn, I ordered an Intel Foundation CPU Block and a 8.5 Reservoir System on Feb 10th. Do you think I still have to wait 1 more week? It's already been 3 weeks now.


----------



## ToWi

That gives me some hope, im also coming up on the 3w mark for an AM4 block. Still wouldve been nice if they gave some updates, or just a realistic eta from d1.

What was your order no?


----------



## Sir Beregond

ToWi said:


> That gives me some hope, im also coming up on the 3w mark for an AM4 block. Still wouldve been nice if they gave some updates, or just a realistic eta from d1.
> 
> What was your order no?


Order #OP3626


----------



## ToWi

Thanks! Mine is 3667 from feb 14th. Would be awesome if it ships this week.


----------



## monners

Order 3051 here. Got a shipment notification a couple of hours ago for my batch 2 gpu block. It's finally happening!


----------



## Section31

monners said:


> Order 3051 here. Got a shipment notification a couple of hours ago for my batch 2 gpu block. It's finally happening!


Good news. We will see when the January 29th order batch gets there GPU's. I don't forsee anything till April myself and i ordered early too.


----------



## kiikkoman

Anyone know where we can buy Fujipoly GR45A pads from? Ive search and searched.


----------



## mmmz

@Optimus WC will AMD cpu blocks be restocked in the near future?


----------



## Phroz3

mmmz said:


> @Optimus WC will AMD cpu blocks be restocked in the near future?


They said next week according to their twitter comment this morning.


----------



## Section31

mmmz said:


> @Optimus WC will AMD cpu blocks be restocked in the near future?


I think there twitter is more often updated than here for product launches.


----------



## mmmz

Phroz3 said:


> They said next week according to their twitter comment this morning.


Thanks!



Section31 said:


> I think there twitter is more often updated than here for product launches.


I've actually seen it both ways with these guys. I got my FTW3 GPU block because I saw them say on here that it would be released on a Friday at 12pm EST


----------



## Section31

mmmz said:


> Thanks!
> 
> 
> I've actually seen it both ways with these guys. I got my FTW3 GPU block because I saw them say on here that it would be released on a Friday at 12pm EST


It's random, Just what they choice to update. Following stuff here is on harder side, even on the other companies threads. I've stopped relying on heatkiller thread here myself. I periodically go to the German Hardwareluxx one now to find updates for heatkiller.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, we're looking to open up orders again for AMD blocks this week. 

And we're still planning on doing friday drops until we get ahead of production.


----------



## Darb

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're looking to open up orders again for AMD blocks this week.
> 
> And we're still planning on doing friday drops until we get ahead of production.


I have one ordered on January 28th order #OP3422 I have yet to receive. Any ETA on this order?

Thank you


----------



## Optimus WC

Darb said:


> I have one ordered on January 28th order #OP3422 I have yet to receive. Any ETA on this order?
> 
> Thank you


That batch of GPUs will start shipping next week, though I don't know exactly where you're in the list. Many are being made now, we had a delay with nickel plating (again, very frustrating), but all parts are either made or being plated/anodized right now.

EDIT: I see you're asking about AMD blocks. Coldplates for those are being finished, should ship next week, I believe.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> That batch of GPUs will start shipping next week, though I don't know exactly where you're in the list. Many are being made now, we had a delay with nickel plating (again, very frustrating), but all parts are either made or being plated/anodized right now.
> 
> EDIT: I see you're asking about AMD blocks. Coldplates for those are being finished, should ship next week, I believe.


Great news on that. By chance is that the 29th January order or batch 2. I am order 3505


----------



## tbrown7552

I ordered an Intel Foundation block on 1/28. This was shipped on 3/5.

A bit longer then what they said but seems to be improving.


----------



## Phroz3

Soun


Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, we're looking to open up orders again for AMD blocks this week.
> 
> And we're still planning on doing friday drops until we get ahead of production.


Sounds good. Is it still looking like the Jan 29th gpu block orders will start going out next week?


----------



## Biggu

@Optimus WC, Realisticly how far out are you on the Strix water blocks? I know it was designed but has any been made?


----------



## jincuteguy

tbrown7552 said:


> I ordered an Intel Foundation block on 1/28. This was shipped on 3/5.
> 
> A bit longer then what they said but seems to be improving.


I ordered my Intel Foundation block on 2/10. How much longer do you think until they can start shipping mine out?


----------



## monners

GPU block arrived today. Order 3051. Boy is this thing heavy.


----------



## tbrown7552

jincuteguy said:


> I ordered my Intel Foundation block on 2/10. How much longer do you think until they can start shipping mine out?


No idea, Not sure if they are built to order or if they threw up orders because they have a large batch already in the works. If built to order maybe the same amount of time mine took, if they have/had a batch already in the works possibly sooner. Also depends on where your order falls in batches made as well. To many variables and i dont have any inside info.


----------



## arvinz

Biggu said:


> @Optimus WC, Realisticly how far out are you on the Strix water blocks? I know it was designed but has any been made?


I'm in the same boat...it's literally the last piece for my new build.


----------



## Shawnb99

KPE blocks? How much longer?


----------



## KedarWolf

I might have asked this before, but with the FTW3 block and passive backplate, what kind of RAM temps are people getting?


----------



## Chamidorix

Chiming in as well for KP update, with the hydrocopper drawing nearer.


----------



## straha20

KedarWolf said:


> I might have asked this before, but with the FTW3 block and passive backplate, what kind of RAM temps are people getting?


On my 3090 FTW3 with no overclock, my memory temps peak in the low 40's c under gaming load with a memory junction temp 50-53c under the same load. With +150 clock, and +300 mem, the temps sit around 45c, junction 55c.


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> On my 3090 FTW3 with no overclock, my memory temps peak in the low 40's c under gaming load with a memory junction temp 50-53c under the same load. With +150 clock, and +300 mem, the temps sit around 45c, junction 55c.


So we only need thick backplate not active backplate/watercooled like whats being developed.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> So we only need thick backplate not active backplate/watercooled like whats being developed.


That is my thoughts. Especially with us that have vertical mounts. The air can pass over the backplate much better in that orientation.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> That is my thoughts. Especially with us that have vertical mounts. The air can pass over the backplate much better in that orientation.


Straha20 is equivalent of vertical mount for normal cases since he has the horizontal mounted motherboard case (in his case diy).


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Straha20 is equivalent of vertical mount for normal cases since he has the horizontal mounted motherboard case (in his case diy).


True. His case is very unique and beautiful I might add. There are some off the shelf cases with unique mounting positions as well. Your caselabs case is that way correct?


----------



## straha20

Section31 said:


> So we only need thick backplate not active backplate/watercooled like whats being developed.


Yeah, I would say so. One thing about the way I designed my case though is that I do have a 120mm intake fan that blows across my motherboard, and the outer edge of the airflow cone does blow by the backplate.










The air flows in from the back and out on the right.


----------



## dwolvin

Seconded- I can't see needing more than that unless you are overclocking the hell out of your memory.


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


> Yeah, I would say so. One thing about the way I designed my case though is that I do have a 120mm intake fan that blows across my motherboard, and the outer edge of the airflow cone does blow by the backplate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The air flows in from the back and out on the right.


Your case is an very well designed horizontal mobo case, I will have rads mounted on top of the case with the fans pulling air into it for mine. Should be lot of air flow in.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> True. His case is very unique and beautiful I might add. There are some off the shelf cases with unique mounting positions as well. Your caselabs case is that way correct?


Yes but not as well designed airflow wise as Straha. I will mount the the rads up top and have fans pulling air in through the rads to get airflow into the case.


----------



## Wihglah

KedarWolf said:


> I might have asked this before, but with the FTW3 block and passive backplate, what kind of RAM temps are people getting?


In normal gameplay it's under control, Mem Junction Temps around 55C with a decent OC, but if you start mining, it can go up as high as 95C almost immediately most guys on stock coolers are seeing MJTs above 100C. I have the MP5Works cooler and it keeps mine at 72C while mining with +800 memory frequency.


----------



## Optimus WC

Another thing to note about our XL heatsink backplate is it covers the entire GPU, not just the mem. So it's not only pulling mem heat but also from other toasty bits, and things get damn hot under there around the power and power delivery. So by cooling everything, you see overall better performance. It's more a holistic approach than targeting just the ram. I'd wager that an active backplate that hits just the vram will have lower performance than our full gpu design.


----------



## KedarWolf

Optimus WC said:


> Another thing to note about our XL heatsink backplate is it covers the entire GPU, not just the mem. So it's not only pulling mem heat but also from other toasty bits, and things get damn hot under there around the power and power delivery. So by cooling everything, you see overall better performance. It's more a holistic approach than targeting just the ram. I'd wager that an active backplate that hits just the vram will have lower performance than our full gpu design.


Any ETA on a Strix OC block? You sold me on the backplate for sure!!

Can we see the waterblock and backplate installation PDFs, please? Would like to see what the thermal pads actually cover. 

Edit: This is what the normal EKWB backplate covers.


----------



## Optimus WC

The Optimus backplate thermal pad is full size so it covers literally everything


----------



## KedarWolf

Optimus WC said:


> The Optimus backplate thermal pad is full size so it covers literally everything


Nice!!

Any Strix blocks incoming? And can I sign up for one now, even willing to pay in advance for one and an XL backplate so I don't miss when they go online.


----------



## onMute

KPE?


----------



## Raul-7

I really love your waterblocks! But I hope in the future you can also outcompete EK in-terms of the aesthetics of your blocks.


----------



## Shawnb99

Raul-7 said:


> aesthetics


Their blocks already surpass EK in terms of looks. If you mean RGB then never. Unicorn puke is not beauty, it's trash


----------



## Section31

Raul-7 said:


> I really love your waterblocks! But I hope in the future you can also outcompete EK in-terms of the aesthetics of your blocks.


I think you mean heatkiller/aquacomputer and ekwb founders blocks


----------



## KedarWolf

Shawnb99 said:


> Their blocks already surpass EK in terms of looks. If you mean RGB then never. Unicorn puke is not beauty, it's trash


A solid black acetal/nickel and acetal/copper block would be awesome with a solid black XL backplate.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Raul-7 said:


> I really love your waterblocks! But I hope in the future you can also outcompete EK in-terms of the aesthetics of your blocks.


What do you mean? I personally find the Optimus blocks gorgeous.


----------



## Phroz3

Sir Beregond said:


> What do you mean? I personally find the Optimus blocks gorgeous.


I think the Optimus looks better than any block out there at this time. The EK looks cheap almost identical to the Barrow.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> I think the Optimus looks better than any block out there at this time. The EK looks cheap almost identical to the Barrow.


Ekwb crowd sigh. Only nice ekwb is the 3000 founders cards and those cost a lot. Looks are up to the individual. I am fan of heatkiller industrial look like the xc3 block esp its spray painted black nickel look. However optimus block looks nice still.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Ekwb crowd sigh. Only nice ekwb is the 3000 founders cards and those cost a lot. Looks are up to the individual. I am fan of heatkiller industrial look like the xc3 block esp its spray painted black nickel look. However optimus block looks nice still.


Exactly. It is totally personal preference. Though to my eyes and performance numbers that I have seen, EK and Optimus are in different leagues. Mainstream VS boutique. There are definitely some pros to getting the mainstream product. Availability of the product and replacement parts is usually not an issue with the mainstream product. As is customer support.


----------



## Shawnb99

Not to mention insane demand. Blocks sell out without minutes. With little manpower can only focus on so much. That's just common sense. If only more knew what that was.


----------



## Phroz3

Shawnb99 said:


> Not to mention insane demand. Blocks sell out without minutes. With little manpower can only focus on so much. That's just common sense. If only more knew what that was.


And I think they have learned from their mistakes (selling so many blocks ahead of manufacturing). I ordered on Jan 29th and mine shipped yesterday. Yes it was longer than their 3 weeks they had originally said it would be, but it was much faster than a lot of the waits people put up with in the first two batches. I believe moving forward that they will get to a point where the 3 week turn around is realistic. I didn't mind waiting though, I knew from research that it would take longer than advertised.


----------



## Raul-7

Sir Beregond said:


> What do you mean? I personally find the Optimus blocks gorgeous.


The blocks look industrial compared to other blocks. They lack the finesse and contour; especially with EK's new Magnitude line which is the best EK has released in recent years [this is compared to their Classic and fugly CSQ line - remember the one with the circles]


----------



## Sir Beregond

Raul-7 said:


> The blocks look industrial compared to other blocks. They lack the finesse and contour; especially with EK's new Magnitude line which is the best EK has released in recent years [this is compared to their Classic and fugly CSQ line - remember the one with the circles]
> 
> View attachment 2481991
> 
> 
> View attachment 2481994


I could do without the RGB, and let me know when EK offers a copper block instead of their crappy nickel.

Personally I like the look of the Optimus blocks, same with Heatkiller GPU blocks a heck of a lot better than these EK blocks.


----------



## Phroz3

Raul-7 said:


> The blocks look industrial compared to other blocks. They lack the finesse and contour; especially with EK's new Magnitude line which is the best EK has released in recent years [this is compared to their Classic and fugly CSQ line - remember the one with the circles]
> 
> View attachment 2481991
> 
> 
> View attachment 2481994


I would say the same for the majority of the EK blocks. Their quantum vector line looks very industrial. The only EK GPU blocks that don't look like that are the ones you pictured for the FE models which look really nice imo.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Lol, USPS is dumb. Optimus shipped my AM4 block out last week from Chicago, IL area. USPS is supposed to deliver it today (Denver, CO), but they sent it east instead and tracking says it is in Springfield, MA. LOL. We're in for a huge snowstorm potentially starting Friday so guess I'll see it next week.


----------



## Optimus WC

To jump in here about our block aesthetic, our internal motto is "Performance First. Quality Also First." Looks are always secondary, and we don't ever do anything that will add cost or hurt performance for the sake of looks.

For example, we did the full unibody style with our Threadripper block and our reservoirs. Our threadripper has flush mounting which is super clean and we're really proud of it. But it serves a performance purpose first and foremost, the flush mounting is just a bonus. Same with the reservoir, it started as achieving the strongest reservoir without any acrylic screw threads using only premium materials with a D5 heatsink built in. And it evolved into what we have now. 

For the GPU, we would have liked to go with the same aesthetic, but for anyone who has gotten the block, you know it's very, very heavy. And expensive. Adding an additional aluminum top would be entirely useless from a performance standpoint, even though it would look great. We personally are really proud off the flow path inside, a really unique shape that will be our signature look for GPUs going forward. But again it started as looking for absolute performance in the block and discovering the ant trail flow paths of other designs were actually inferior to what we wanted to do. 

Interestingly, the XL Heatsink backplate is mandatory for the design, the block doesn't work without it. And the performance is way, way better than a traditional GPU block design. So for us, we'd rather put that extra thick aluminum where it will gain serious performance (on the back) than make a purely cosmetic cover for the front. 

All that said, we do love clean aesthetics and modern lines, and ditching legacy designs that serve no purpose (like mounting springs, jet plates, molex, etc).


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> And I think they have learned from their mistakes (selling so many blocks ahead of manufacturing). I ordered on Jan 29th and mine shipped yesterday. Yes it was longer than their 3 weeks they had originally said it would be, but it was much faster than a lot of the waits people put up with in the first two batches. I believe moving forward that they will get to a point where the 3 week turn around is realistic. I didn't mind waiting though, I knew from research that it would take longer than advertised.


nice. hopefully mine is soon lol.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Personally I think your FTW3 block is one of the best looking GPU blocks I've seen. Especially in that red build several pages back.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> To jump in here about our block aesthetic, our internal motto is "Performance First. Quality Also First." Looks are always secondary, and we don't ever do anything that will add cost or hurt performance for the sake of looks.
> 
> For example, we did the full unibody style with our Threadripper block and our reservoirs. Our threadripper has flush mounting which is super clean and we're really proud of it. But it serves a performance purpose first and foremost, the flush mounting is just a bonus. Same with the reservoir, it started as achieving the strongest reservoir without any acrylic screw threads using only premium materials with a D5 heatsink built in. And it evolved into what we have now.
> 
> For the GPU, we would have liked to go with the same aesthetic, but for anyone who has gotten the block, you know it's very, very heavy. And expensive. Adding an additional aluminum top would be entirely useless from a performance standpoint, even though it would look great. We personally are really proud off the flow path inside, a really unique shape that will be our signature look for GPUs going forward. But again it started as looking for absolute performance in the block and discovering the ant trail flow paths of other designs were actually inferior to what we wanted to do.
> 
> Interestingly, the XL Heatsink backplate is mandatory for the design, the block doesn't work without it. And the performance is way, way better than a traditional GPU block design. So for us, we'd rather put that extra thick aluminum where it will gain serious performance (on the back) than make a purely cosmetic cover for the front.
> 
> All that said, we do love clean aesthetics and modern lines, and ditching legacy designs that serve no purpose (like mounting springs, jet plates, molex, etc).
> 
> View attachment 2482002
> View attachment 2482004
> View attachment 2482001


The flow path in the FTW3 block is outstanding. Personally find it far more appealing than any other block out there...


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, I have a waterblocked 1080ti, and I will only replace it with something I can put an Optimus block on. And hopefully the upcoming mining changes are going to start making graphics cards available...


----------



## Sir Beregond

straha20 said:


> The flow path in the FTW3 block is outstanding. Personally find it far more appealing than any other block out there...


This was exactly the build I was thinking of. Block looks outstanding.


----------



## maxxx.ph

@Optimus WC would painting the engraved FTW3 and OPTIMUS wordings with an acrylic or enamel paint have any effect on the plating in those areas? 
Thank you! (Still waiting though from 01/29)


----------



## Optimus WC

maxxx.ph said:


> @Optimus WC would painting the engraved FTW3 and OPTIMUS wordings with an acrylic or enamel paint have any effect on the plating in those areas?
> Thank you! (Still waiting though from 01/29)


Go for it!


----------



## maxxx.ph

Optimus WC said:


> Go for it!


Once I have it, I will. Thank you!


----------



## LiquidHaus

KPE.

KPE.

KPE.


----------



## Shawnb99

LiquidHaus said:


> KPE.
> 
> KPE.
> 
> KPE.


KPE
KPE
KPE
KPE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Phroz3

Shawnb99 said:


> KPE
> KPE
> KPE
> KPE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Zotac


Zotac


Zotac


Ohhh wait... KPE KPE!


----------



## El Media Vida

Hello there!
I hope you can help me. I want buy a Optimus Foundation nickel plated, but I see than some units have issues like acrilic craking and bad nickel plating...
Someone here ever had that or another issues with the blocks?


----------



## straha20

El Media Vida said:


> Hello there!
> I hope you can help me. I want buy a Optimus Foundation nickel plated, but I see than some units have issues like acrilic craking and bad nickel plating...
> Someone here ever had that or another issues with the blocks?


I have not had any issues, nor have I actually heard anyone having these issues with Optimus block. Now I have heard frequent complaints of these issues with certain other manufacturers...


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey there, the nickel plating isn't an issue, it's something people think is nickel plating, but in fact loose copper from radiators. As you can see from the picture, the copper accumulates on the nickel fitting. It can't be nickel corrosion because it's all brass underneath! 










For acrylic, our acrylic is extremely strong, we use only industrial cast acrylic made for aquariums with machining techniques that take longer but prevent cracking. Of course, if you run into an issue we replace the part asap.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Hi @Optimus WC 

I got my AM4 block in today and am a little concerned about the nickel plating. Noticed this discoloration on one edge of the fins. Not sure what this is. Any recommendation for cleaning so I can see if it just needs to be cleaned or a problem with the nickel?























Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey there, definitely doesn't look like a nickel issue, the nickel shows up any smudges or other stuff on the plate. For example, the o-rings. The o-rings are raw EPDM with no plasticizer, but they do show marks on the cold plate. The nickel is very strong, but start by wiping it, then try alcohol wipes then get progressively stronger. But looking at that, it should just wipe off with alcohol pads or just tissue.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, definitely doesn't look like a nickel issue, the nickel shows up any smudges or other stuff on the plate. For example, the o-rings. The o-rings are raw EPDM with no plasticizer, but they do show marks on the cold plate. The nickel is very strong, but start by wiping it, then try alcohol wipes then get progressively stronger. But looking at that, it should just wipe off with alcohol pads or just tissue.


Thank you, just wanted to double-check before I did anything. I will give that a shot!

Edit: Yep, good call. Grabbed an alcohol wipe and did the trick. All good. Great looking block, thanks!


----------



## Lobstar

@Optimus WC I have an open order for a 3090 block. I'm wondering if you have an install guide I can get acquainted with while waiting for the product to arrive. Thanks in advance


----------



## Optimus WC

Here you go!


----------



## Lobstar

Optimus WC said:


> Here you go!


Thanks! Do you have a torque spec for the fasteners?


----------



## ToWi

Geesh... just make it fingertight. I doubt most people have torque wrenches in the range of inch pounds.


----------



## Phroz3

ToWi said:


> Geesh... just make it fingertight. I doubt most people have torque wrenches in the range of inch pounds.


Well I am one of the weirdos that has a torque driver lol. I would love to know if there is a torque spec that @Optimus WC recommends.


----------



## Jon01010

Phroz3 said:


> Well I am one of the weirdos that has a torque driver lol. I would love to know if there is a torque spec that @Optimus WC recommends.


I am another one of those weirdos.


----------



## Lobstar

ToWi said:


> Geesh... just make it fingertight. I doubt most people have torque wrenches in the range of inch pounds.


I mean, it's a $2k card with a near $400 waterblock. It's not out of the question to use a $35 torque driver to assemble it. When part of the performance is having a snug fit I want to make sure I don't damage anything. But you go right ahead and yolo that hex bolt in there big guy.


----------



## Phroz3

Lobstar said:


> I mean, it's a $2k card with a near $400 waterblock. It's not out of the question to use a $35 torque driver to assemble it. When part of the performance is having a snug fit I want to make sure I don't damage anything. But you go right ahead and yolo that hex bolt in there big guy.


Right, I mean even if @Optimus WC doesn't have a torque suggestion at least I can get an even pressure.


----------



## Optimus WC

We don't have a torque rating for the back, the truth is the block is designed in a way it doesn't matter -- it's virtually impossible to overdo it. The copper threads will strip first before anything bad happens. And that's because the backplate thermal pad is wildly huge. Also, it's a clamshell design that doesn't use the PCB for strength. 

But I'm curious about this $35 torque driver. Any good? We use ones that cost $$$. But we'd love to get to a place where all our products either have or can be used with an Optimus torque key (similar to Threadripper key) to hit the right torque on everything.


----------



## Lobstar

Optimus WC said:


> But I'm curious about this $35 torque driver. Any good? We use ones that cost $$$.


I got one of those torque key's with my VW OEM Roof Rack! They are great! The one I'm using is a clone of this from wish. I'm not sure I'd trust it on things that are mission critical, but for being within +/-10% it's fine for my uses. https://www.amazon.com/METAKOO-Screwdriver-Increment-Mounting-Accurizing/dp/B07VFRXHZC


----------



## Phroz3

Lobstar said:


> I got one of those torque key's with my VW OEM Roof Rack! They are great! The one I'm using is a clone of this from wish. I'm not sure I'd trust it on things that are mission critical, but for being within +/-10% it's fine for my uses. https://www.amazon.com/METAKOO-Screwdriver-Increment-Mounting-Accurizing/dp/B07VFRXHZC


That's the same one that I got.


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> That's the same one that I got.


Man, I have really been trying to cut down on the amount of stuff I order from Amazon, but here I go again...


----------



## El Media Vida

Sir Beregond said:


> Thank you, just wanted to double-check before I did anything. I will give that a shot!
> 
> Edit: Yep, good call. Grabbed an alcohol wipe and did the trick. All good. Great looking block, thanks!


Can you share the before and after, please.


----------



## Optimus WC

https://www.amazon.com/CDI-401SM-Adjustable-Screwdriver-40-Inch/dp/B004616OQI



These are the ones we use. The other one doesn't look like it goes low enough, ideally it should go down to .5nm, and that other one is around 1.87nm, which is above even the 1.5nm of the Threadripper torque key.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> https://www.amazon.com/CDI-401SM-Adjustable-Screwdriver-40-Inch/dp/B004616OQI
> 
> 
> 
> These are the ones we use. The other one doesn't look like it goes low enough, ideally it should go down to .5nm, and that other one is around 1.87nm, which is above even the 1.5nm of the Threadripper torque key.


Those are a bit pricey for sure. So for the GPU blocks, would we need a torque driver that goes that low, or would the one linked above work fine for the block specs?


----------



## Lobstar

Optimus WC said:


> https://www.amazon.com/CDI-401SM-Adjustable-Screwdriver-40-Inch/dp/B004616OQI
> 
> 
> 
> These are the ones we use. The other one doesn't look like it goes low enough, ideally it should go down to .5nm, and that other one is around 1.87nm, which is above even the 1.5nm of the Threadripper torque key.


Good to know! I use mine mostly for firearm related maintenance so it's nice to hear it's probably too high for this application.

I'll have to add one of these to the tool bag.








25.38US $ 47% OFF|Shahe Zsq Economical Pre-set Torque Screwdriver Adjustable Torque Wrench Durable Hand Tools - Screwdriver - AliExpress


Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com




www.aliexpress.com


----------



## onMute

Cannot go wrong with CDI, a Snap On family brand and made in the USA. Only fitting @Optimus WC uses it .


----------



## JustinThyme

Phroz3 said:


> Funny how that stuff steamrolls isn't it lol? I ordered a couple gen4 m.2 drives last night so the only thing missing to have another system was a motherboard so I ordered one of those too haha. Taking the opportunity to upgrade my kids' computer. They already have my old o11 dynamic and what not. Now they will have a 2700x on a tuf mobo with 16gb of dom plats lol. Gives me another opportunity to take their old 6 core AMD 1090t and repurpose that to replace my aging plex server.


And some people say black holes don’t exist. LOL. I tried a few smaller cases and grew tired of trying to stuff 10 pounds of sheet in a 5lb bag. My wife complains because my HTPC is in a 900D. 🤣That’s what happens when you have one laying around and an xtra X299 R6EE and 9940X and a pair of 1080Tis collecting dust and everything else needed. That black hole has kicked my A$$ for quite some time but in the case of the HTPC some light did escape and turn into something useable. I’ve got more crap on the shelves in my basement from trial and error and just samples. I’ll sell off a few things here and there when someone is looking for specific items and I have it but most often donate to people who will take perfectly good hardware that’s a few gens old and be happy as a pig in a poo pile to have it. Most recently was a MOBO and a pair of 8800GTS cards that came from the factory with EK blocks that now reside in Brazil.

Sometimes I cave but for the time being I’m dumping funds to my other overpriced hobbies, namely finishing off a screaming Eagle build on my fat boy. Pffffffffft, there goes $6K. Amazing how fast the black hole swallowed that beam of light right back up! Wishing it was finished as I got back from an out of town work trip today to 70F weather and the engine ready to go in the frame but not in it. 😢 guess I know what I’ll be doing the rest of the weekend just to watch the temps dive again but at least when they come back up I’ll be ready to ride. Winter project that just took too long. Went from nothing to do employment wise to 60 hour weeks being the short ones. Why build it anyway? Already punched it up from 96 CI to 104 but noooo let’s go to 114CI, 1868CC. Like I need that for a cruiser. Why? Because I can and keeps me from ripping my PC apart and rebuilding it again to something that I don’t really need, still in the middle of adding a MO-RA 420 project.


----------



## Fluxmaven

JustinThyme said:


> Sometimes I cave but for the time being I’m dumping funds to my other overpriced hobbies, namely finishing off a screaming Eagle build on my fat boy. Pffffffffft, there goes $6K. Amazing how fast the black hole swallowed that beam of light right back up! Wishing it was finished as I got back from an out of town work trip today to 70F weather and the engine ready to go in the frame but not in it. 😢 guess I know what I’ll be doing the rest of the weekend just to watch the temps dive again but at least when they come back up I’ll be ready to ride. Winter project that just took too long. Went from nothing to do employment wise to 60 hour weeks being the short ones. Why build it anyway? Already punched it up from 96 CI to 104 but noooo let’s go to 114CI, 1868CC. Like I need that for a cruiser. Why? Because I can and keeps me from ripping my PC apart and rebuilding it again to something that I don’t really need, still in the middle of adding a MO-RA 420 project.


Hate it when it's nice during the work week and it turns to crap on the weekend. It's been years since I had a bike but I did at least get to enjoy a nice top down ride to work in the Miata today. More good weather is coming eventually so hopefully that engine drops in with no issues. 

Do you have a build log going on the MO-RA project? I love external rad setups.


----------



## ToWi

Lmao, criticizing me, and then posting you use a wish torque wrench.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> And some people say black holes don’t exist. LOL. I tried a few smaller cases and grew tired of trying to stuff 10 pounds of sheet in a 5lb bag. My wife complains because my HTPC is in a 900D. 🤣That’s what happens when you have one laying around and an xtra X299 R6EE and 9940X and a pair of 1080Tis collecting dust and everything else needed. That black hole has kicked my A$$ for quite some time but in the case of the HTPC some light did escape and turn into something useable. I’ve got more crap on the shelves in my basement from trial and error and just samples. I’ll sell off a few things here and there when someone is looking for specific items and I have it but most often donate to people who will take perfectly good hardware that’s a few gens old and be happy as a pig in a poo pile to have it. Most recently was a MOBO and a pair of 8800GTS cards that came from the factory with EK blocks that now reside in Brazil.
> 
> Sometimes I cave but for the time being I’m dumping funds to my other overpriced hobbies, namely finishing off a screaming Eagle build on my fat boy. Pffffffffft, there goes $6K. Amazing how fast the black hole swallowed that beam of light right back up! Wishing it was finished as I got back from an out of town work trip today to 70F weather and the engine ready to go in the frame but not in it. 😢 guess I know what I’ll be doing the rest of the weekend just to watch the temps dive again but at least when they come back up I’ll be ready to ride. Winter project that just took too long. Went from nothing to do employment wise to 60 hour weeks being the short ones. Why build it anyway? Already punched it up from 96 CI to 104 but noooo let’s go to 114CI, 1868CC. Like I need that for a cruiser. Why? Because I can and keeps me from ripping my PC apart and rebuilding it again to something that I don’t really need, still in the middle of adding a MO-RA 420 project.


Totally get you there. My project now extends to wish list of new steelcase chair -looking at the gesture (my 15yr tekunion contessa on last legs) and want an 32inch 4k monitor. All expensive projects. Btw we have moved this sort of talk to the optimus general watercooling thread.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Totally get you there. My project now extends to wish list of new steelcase chair -looking at the gesture (my 15yr tekunion contessa on last legs) and want an 32inch 4k monitor. All expensive projects. Btw we have moved this sort of talk to the optimus general watercooling thread.


Steel case wheel chair? Might need it by the time the products roll out. I’ve not seen such an industry shortfall as long as I’ve been tinkering with PCs all that started with a brand spanking new Commodore 64 and a stack of 5 1/4 floppy disks. I think the top game then was pong! LMAO. I used it mostly for documents along with a noisy a$$ dot matrix printer. People complaining about PC fans. That freaking thing was so loud I had my desk on the wall that adjoined my garage at the time and poked a hole big enough for that huge parallel cable and put the printer in the garage. I could still hear it but at least I didn’t need hearing protection every time I needed to start the feed on the roll. I think the worst part was having to tear off the feed holes on the sides of the paper when you were done. Then get greedy and try and stack pages and do a bunch at a time only to rip the paper and reprint all of it as there was no option to start with page 15. It was all or nothing. My first upgrade after that was a 386 then a 486DX2 that was screaming at 20MHz and came with a 40MB HDD. Still DOS OS at that point. Windows had yet to be invented.


----------



## JustinThyme

Fluxmaven said:


> Hate it when it's nice during the work week and it turns to crap on the weekend. It's been years since I had a bike but I did at least get to enjoy a nice top down ride to work in the Miata today. More good weather is coming eventually so hopefully that engine drops in with no issues.
> 
> Do you have a build log going on the MO-RA project? I love external rad setups.


Not really a log. I’m going to have to put my GPUs back to horizontal. They look nice vertical but that blocks all the PCIE ports as well as the buttons on the bottom left of the R6EE MOBO for safe start, start, reset and to change the BIOS as well as all the other headers. Biggest thing other than blocking is I’m using a PCIE slot adapter for in and out of the case. Hard tubing to that point then on the outside quick connects. I’ll be leaving two rads in the case but pulling the rest and bought a couple of extra male quick connects so I can just pop those in with a short piece of tubing to bypass the MORA. It’s all assembled, flushed the hell out of it res, two more D5 pumps mounted and will start off with 9 140mm Noctua 2000 rpm industrial fans pushing. Here’s where it’s at now. Few tubes hard tubes on the rad to do, put my cards back horizontal Was a PITA to run down a 3 slot Nvlink adaptor, R6E used 4 slot as does most everything which is easy to find, already had one. 2 slot going vertical with both cards ended up using one for an RTX6000 quadro which works perfectly, otherwise there is no such thing listed for the consumer cards. But yeah have a little plumbing and tubing to change inside after I redo the card that will open up two slots that I can use for AIC Intel 900P cards that have been collecting dust. I was tempted to put them on extension cables but things were getting tight in a massive case just around the PCIE slots. Going back horizontal will open all that right up. It’s pretty vertical, just not very practical.


----------



## Sir Beregond

El Media Vida said:


> Can you share the before and after, please.


Sure. It really was just some sort of residue. Now just need to get a clean toothbrush or something to clean out the little alcohol wipe fibers that got caught on the fins. 

Before:









After:









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Phroz3

Sneak peek. Have to get the lines bent at some time today and leak test it.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Fluxmaven said:


> I did at least get to enjoy a nice top down ride to work in the Miata today.


I love Miatas. Have never actually been in one driving...didn't really fit comfortably in an ND, but man I really do like them as cars. And I really like my Mazda crossover. What Miata do you have?


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> Sneak peek. Have to get the lines bent at some time today and leak test it.


Oh, I am going to be removing the backplate thermal pad through the cutouts! That looks so much nicer.


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> Oh, I am going to be removing the backplate thermal pad through the cutouts! That looks so much nicer.


It looks better than the thermal pad for sure. Thought about painting it black where the aluminum is showing.


----------



## criskoe

@JustinThyme 

I know your one of the very few that have played with both the magnitude and Optimus foundation and signature blocks.
Any chance you might of taken any flow readings of the flow restriction difference with a accurate flow meter?? I know you run multiple pumps but for people who only run single pump what kind of flow reduction you think would be expected?

Anyone else out there done any comparisons?


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> @JustinThyme
> 
> I know your one of the very few that have played with both the magnitude and Optimus foundation and signature blocks.
> Any chance you might of taken any flow readings of the flow restriction difference with a accurate flow meter?? I know you run multiple pumps but for people who only run single pump what kind of flow reduction you think would be expected?
> 
> Anyone else out there done any comparisons?


I can tell you what my flow since it's only cpu loop and was doing CPU testing on my end. Single D5 Next on only (2nd one is on the Mo-Ra3 and not powered unless needed)


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> I can tell you what my flow since it's only cpu loop and was doing CPU testing on my end. Single D5 Next on only (2nd one is on the Mo-Ra3 and not powered unless needed)


Nice. Is the Mo-Ra the only rad in the loop? Or are there other radiators?

I currently have a very simple loop of two 360 rads. A ek magnitude and a ek 1080ti block and one EK D5. And according to my high flow USB my flow rate is 284LPH.

With a Optimus gpu block I’ve also ordered a foundation to direct die as my magnitude won’t clear the inner row of caps on my Asus board.

I don’t plan on changing anything else on the loop so it will be interesting to see how much flow I lose. Hope it’s not too much as I don’t want to install another pump.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Nice. Is the Mo-Ra the only rad in the loop? Or are there other radiators?
> 
> I currently have a very simple loop of two 360 rads. A ek magnitude and a ek 1080ti block and one EK D5. And according to my high flow USB my flow rate is 284LPH.
> 
> With a Optimus gpu block I’ve also ordered a foundation to direct die as my magnitude won’t clear the inner row of caps on my Asus board.
> 
> I don’t plan on changing anything else on the loop so it will be interesting to see how much flow I lose. Hope it’s not too much as I don’t want to install another pump.


Each person setup is different. I have one more internal 360 atm and my result will be lower because i have qd4.


----------



## JustinThyme

criskoe said:


> @JustinThyme
> 
> I know your one of the very few that have played with both the magnitude and Optimus foundation and signature blocks.
> Any chance you might of taken any flow readings of the flow restriction difference with a accurate flow meter?? I know you run multiple pumps but for people who only run single pump what kind of flow reduction you think would be expected?
> 
> Anyone else out there done any comparisons?


Actually I did. Go WAY back in this thread and in the magnitude thread it’s all posted with my testing.
In the end they are both comparable performance in my system but the magnitude took the lead in low flow with less flow restriction. When I dropped back to a single D5 just above stalling the magnitude was the clear leader. The hardest thing to swallow with the Magnitude is the cost.
If you are going for the least restriction and a low flow loop without regard to cost then the magnitude would be the choice. If you have a system with enough a$$ then either is comparable. I ran both through the same paces in multiple setting on fans from 100% to just above stall and 3 pumps down to one pump just above stall and every combination of the two in 25% increments keeping a regulated 24C ambient. Both are great blocks and I concluded them comparable. I’m not one to conclude a winner over 0.10C like techpowerup did. What I will say is in lower flow systems as in pitifully low flow to a point I’d not run mine the Magnitude takes that spot.
If you have a single D5 CPU only loop only and a mid level rad and don’t run the pump down so low it’s just above stalling either block will perform just fine. The biggest challenge with both is getting a good mount. They are rather picky on how much TIM and getting the spread right. Both blocks showed a less is more in the TIM dept. Pea blob in the middle and gently pushing the block into the TIM and a little wiggle within the confines of the mount keeping it flat then keeping pressure on the block and getting two diagonal screws started, letting the block go then starting the other two then working a cross pattern 1/2 turn at a time until they are tight got the best for me. As in running thumb nuts until you can’t crank anymore without using a tool then with the magnitude bottoming the screws out without breaking out a 1/2 inch drive ratchet, just a tool and tight you are good.


----------



## Fluxmaven

JustinThyme said:


> Not really a log.


Mora setup looks good. The dual top wasn't out when I got mine. I just run two separate heatkiller pump/res combos. Vertical GPU's have always seemed like more hassle than its worth but with a pretty block like the Optimus it is tempting. 


Sir Beregond said:


> I love Miatas. Have never actually been in one driving...didn't really fit comfortably in an ND, but man I really do like them as cars. And I really like my Mazda crossover. What Miata do you have?


I had to go with an NA for the pop up headlights  I'm 6' tall and was pretty cramped initially but after swapping out the steering wheel and modifying the seat, it fits like a glove.


----------



## straha20

Swapped out my EK PE rads for HWL GTX's.

Two hours running Heaven...










Temps look decent. 23c ambient. Still a bit jarring seeing the super high glitchy temps on the icx sensors. The T_Sensor is between the CPU block and RAM.


----------



## JustinThyme

Fluxmaven said:


> Mora setup looks good. The dual top wasn't out when I got mine. I just run two separate heatkiller pump/res combos. Vertical GPU's have always seemed like more hassle than its worth but with a pretty block like the Optimus it is tempting.
> 
> I had to go with an NA for the pop up headlights  I'm 6' tall and was pretty cramped initially but after swapping out the steering wheel and modifying the seat, it fits like a glove.


i love the look of the heat killer blocks vertical and it wasn’t so bad when I had the R6E with all the buttons in the top right. Then they had to move a lot of things and stretch out the memory slots and where buttons used to be I know have 8 pin power connectors. Going back to horizontal though over the next several days. This was with R6E, had to shift down 3 slots on the R6EE due to everything being lower. Cant see bottom of board, access headers or even see the pass thoughs for wiring as it is ATM. Ill miss this look but enjoy getting 100% access back and the ability to use the other two slots at X4 for Intel AIC 900P cards that are collecting dust ATM as well as being able to use an empty slot for the MORA I/O instead of snaking around to the backside and either cutting into my $900 case or leaving hoses dangling which just isn't how I roll.


----------



## JustinThyme

How it looks with R6EE.








just no way to make the turn in the top slot with vertical mount bottomed out. I could shoe horn it in but then would never get the ram out if I needed to. Then the inability to put the blanks back in just drives me nuts so horizontal it is. Will still look good with the 3 slot ASUS Nvlink bridge that was a PITA to find. Plenty of 4 slots but I already have one and the few places that have them listed say no longer available. They actually look pretty nice with with holographic ROG RGB on them.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> How it looks with R6EE.
> View attachment 2482555
> 
> 
> just no way to make the turn in the top slot with vertical mount bottomed out. I could shoe horn it in but then would never get the ram out if I needed to. Then the inability to put the blanks back in just drives me nuts so horizontal it is. Will still look good with the 3 slot ASUS Nvlink bridge that was a PITA to find. Plenty of 4 slots but I already have one and the few places that have them listed say no longer available. They actually look pretty nice with with holographic ROG RGB on them.
> 
> View attachment 2482556


Nice build


----------



## criskoe

straha20 said:


> Swapped out my EK PE rads for HWL GTX's.
> 
> Two hours running Heaven...
> 
> Temps look decent. 23c ambient. Still a bit jarring seeing the super high glitchy temps on the icx sensors. The T_Sensor is between the CPU block and RAM.


What gains did the GTXs get you over the PEs? Was the rads the only thing you changed?


----------



## straha20

criskoe said:


> What gains did the GTXs get you over the PEs? Was the rads the only thing you changed?


Rads were the only change I made. The numbers above are with a less aggressive fan curve, but running the fans at 100% on both sets of radiators, the GTX rads plateaued the entire system at about 2c cooler over all. The PE rads would reach a level temp of 30c in about 15 minutes, where as the GTX rads took around 20 minutes for the water temp to level off at 28c. The water temp of 31c above was from when I shut my fans off entirely and ran the dual d5 pumps at minimum rpm of 850.

Come on @Optimus WC, help a brother out here...As soon as I get my blemish reservoirs, I am going to swap out all my fittings, and clean out my GPU block because it really needs it...










May help out my temps even more, especially on my down loop CPU...


----------



## dwolvin

Eeeewwww! Is that moss in there?


----------



## Mxj1

dwolvin said:


> Eeeewwww! Is that moss in there?


Broccoli.


----------



## ToWi

I think its busy mining, but copper instead of ETH


----------



## Sir Beregond

Is that crud from the rads? What is that?


----------



## Phroz3

Sir Beregond said:


> Is that crud from the rads? What is that?


Looks like copper leeching from the rads. I just went through that with my HWL GTX.


----------



## straha20

Sir Beregond said:


> Is that crud from the rads? What is that?


I rebuilt my loop a month or so ago, when I swapped out from a DDC to dual d5's, and swapped out my 1808ti for my 3090 with Optimus block. I also replaced some of the tubing at the time. Once I filled it, it because quite obvious that I had missed cleaning out a tube because I saw acrylic shavings in my Optimus block. The debris collection increased when I swapped out my rads, so I think this is a combination of a few things. The debris from my tubes, even though I cleaned the hell out of the rads, flushed them hooked up directly to garden hose, soaked them in vinegar, some stuff still came loose, and also, there was likely stuff in the loop already that went through my old EK water block that was caught by the much more dense Optimus fins.

It'll all get taken care of when I partially tear down when get my reservoirs.


----------



## straha20

Hell, at this point though, I'd gladly pay the difference between the blemish and fully new reservoirs if it meant I could get them this week.


----------



## Lobstar

It's not Friday and 3090 blocks are available for purchase. Does that indicate production lead times are down and we can expect to receive our blocks sooner rather than later?


----------



## Phroz3

Lobstar said:


> It's not Friday and 3090 blocks are available for purchase. Does that indicate production lead times are down and we can expect to receive our blocks sooner rather than later?


That's what I was wondering. Was astonished to see they were still on sale from Friday till now.


----------



## Optimus WC

It's a cancelation. If someone cancels, it goes back in stock.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> It's a cancelation. If someone cancels, it goes back in stock.


Any blocks expected to ship out this week?


----------



## JustinThyme

straha20 said:


> Rads were the only change I made. The numbers above are with a less aggressive fan curve, but running the fans at 100% on both sets of radiators, the GTX rads plateaued the entire system at about 2c cooler over all. The PE rads would reach a level temp of 30c in about 15 minutes, where as the GTX rads took around 20 minutes for the water temp to level off at 28c. The water temp of 31c above was from when I shut my fans off entirely and ran the dual d5 pumps at minimum rpm of 850.
> 
> Come on @Optimus WC, help a brother out here...As soon as I get my blemish reservoirs, I am going to swap out all my fittings, and clean out my GPU block because it really needs it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May help out my temps even more, especially on my down loop CPU...


Went through this not that long ago. Only change was Optimus Sig V2 block. Pulled block and the nickel plating guaranteed to never flake for a million years was flaking off. Only difference, I use an inline filter so this crap doesn’t end up in my blocks, got trapped by filter and saw flow rate drop on Flowmeter. Looking at this being one of the new blocks, didn’t you make any other changes to your system? Could be that spiffy new block shedding. Happened to me on a spiffy new CPU block. Only thing I can say is they did send me a new cold plate with a story of some slipped past QC.

if you did swap out rads did you flush them first? As in at least a vinegar soak overnight then circulate that crap out. I’ve not bought any rad ever no matter how much they say they were cleaned before they were packaged that I didn’t get a bunch of green goop out.


----------



## straha20

JustinThyme said:


> Went through this not that long ago. Only change was Optimus Sig V2 block. Pulled block and the nickel plating guaranteed to never flake for a million years was flaking off. Only difference, I use an inline filter so this crap doesn’t end up in my blocks, got trapped by filter and saw flow rate drop on Flowmeter. Looking at this being one of the new blocks, didn’t you make any other changes to your system? Could be that spiffy new block shedding. Happened to me on a spiffy new CPU block. Only thing I can say is they did send me a new cold plate with a story of some slipped past QC.
> 
> if you did swap out rads did you flush them first? As in at least a vinegar soak overnight then circulate that crap out. I’ve not bought any rad ever no matter how much they say they were cleaned before they were packaged that I didn’t get a bunch of green goop out.


They were flushed by hooking them straight up to my garden hose full pressure for half an hour or so, and I soaked them in vinegar for about 24 hours, and then I threw them on by bench loop where they circulated for a couple of days. I'll be able to tell better when I get it open, but just from a glance, the plating looks solid.


----------



## JustinThyme

It all sucks bawlz. Why I always recommend an inline filter.
My secret to rad cleaning is actually an old trick I learned for cleaning corroded brightwork while serving in the USN blowing stuff up for a living. The secret is Coca Cola. lay rad on its back with ports facing up and a couple of short extension tubes sticking up and filler up. Leave it sit 24 hours and Im never surprised by the goop that bubbled right on out of there on its own. Then flush the crap out it with hot tap water quick rinse with distilled water and then in my test loop with a filter for another 24 hours before installing.

Thats a lot of crap in the photo. My filter looked just like that to the point it cut my flow rate to about 1/3 of what it had ran at for months until putting the ironclad electorless plated block in the system. The block was the only thing that was changed. 

Good luck with finding the source, clean and flush everything and again I cant recommend installing an inline filter enough. There are plenty on the market from aquacumputer filters that have cut off valves built in so you can clean the filter without draining the loop to XPSC filters that are just inline with a screen and glass that you can either add isolation valves to or drain the loop to clean. Either way beats having to break open blocks. You may get lucky and be able to back flush that crap out.


----------



## Sir Beregond

JustinThyme said:


> There are plenty on the market from aquacumputer filters that have cut off valves built in so you can clean the filter without draining the loop


Thanks...Bought a Blitz kit for this next build, but think I will add one of these as well. Where in the loop do you suggest is best to place it? Right before it returns to the res/pump?


----------



## Shawnb99

Sir Beregond said:


> Thanks...Bought a Blitz kit for this next build, but think I will add one of these as well. Where in the loop do you suggest is best to place it? Right before it returns to the res/pump?


I like to put mine just before the first block.


----------



## criskoe

straha20 said:


>


Is the white gasket turning yellow around the edges? Or is it the pic/my screen?


----------



## straha20

criskoe said:


> Is the white gasket turning yellow around the edges? Or is it the pic/my screen?


It's the lighting, and my phone camera doing that. Not visually yellowing at all.


----------



## JustinThyme

Sir Beregond said:


> Thanks...Bought a Blitz kit for this next build, but think I will add one of these as well. Where in the loop do you suggest is best to place it? Right before it returns to the res/pump?


That’s where I put mine, on the return side so it doesn’t gets into the pumps or rads to get lodged up in rads or ground up by pumps making more f a PITA. There are varying opinions on placement but using one is a no brainer. I’ve listened to arguments that it causes flow restriction. Only time I’ve seen mine cause flow restriction was when it was doing its job and particulate matter was clogging the filter. That’s how I knew to look when I saw a reduction in flow and sure as sheet, crap in the filter. Clean filter, put it back in and right back to full flow. Put it before the block and if the issue is the block shedding it makes it all the way through the loop, gets ground up and then you catch it. Not practical to put multiples in or you would take up all you space with filters but one will save you a lot of headaches. My only issue has been caused by shedding. Of course you can have others from rads but that’s about loop prep and you can have issues from not cleaning out hard tubing by not cleaning burrs and sanding ends and flushing that out before installing.


----------



## Sir Beregond

JustinThyme said:


> It all sucks bawlz. Why I always recommend an inline filter.
> My secret to rad cleaning is actually an old trick I learned for cleaning corroded brightwork while serving in the USN blowing stuff up for a living. The secret is Coca Cola. lay rad on its back with ports facing up and a couple of short extension tubes sticking up and filler up. Leave it sit 24 hours and Im never surprised by the goop that bubbled right on out of there on its own. Then flush the crap out it with hot tap water quick rinse with distilled water and then in my test loop with a filter for another 24 hours before installing.
> 
> Thats a lot of crap in the photo. My filter looked just like that to the point it cut my flow rate to about 1/3 of what it had ran at for months until putting the ironclad electorless plated block in the system. The block was the only thing that was changed.
> 
> Good luck with finding the source, clean and flush everything and again I cant recommend installing an inline filter enough. There are plenty on the market from aquacumputer filters that have cut off valves built in so you can clean the filter without draining the loop to XPSC filters that are just inline with a screen and glass that you can either add isolation valves to or drain the loop to clean. Either way beats having to break open blocks. You may get lucky and be able to back flush that crap out.


Is this the one you were talking about? Sound like can deal with without draining whole loop.









Aquacomputer Filter with Stainless Steel Mesh, Ball Valves and Mounting Plate G1/4


This filter unit from Aquacomputer has a great advantage in practicality compared to standard, more simple, filters. Two integrated valves allows easy cleaning of the filter without draining of the whole system. The stainless steel filter mesh with an exceptionally large surface area is...




www.performance-pcs.com


----------



## JustinThyme

Sir Beregond said:


> Is this the one you were talking about? Sound like can deal with without draining whole loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer Filter with Stainless Steel Mesh, Ball Valves and Mounting Plate G1/4
> 
> 
> This filter unit from Aquacomputer has a great advantage in practicality compared to standard, more simple, filters. Two integrated valves allows easy cleaning of the filter without draining of the whole system. The stainless steel filter mesh with an exceptionally large surface area is...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com


Yeah, that’s what I use. The stainless front bracket comes off.
You still need to put it where you can get a small catcher under it because when you isolate it and pull the cover to access the screen a little coolant comes out.


----------



## Sir Beregond

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah, that’s what I use. The stainless front bracket comes off.
> You still need to put it where you can get a small catcher under it because when you isolate it and pull the cover to access the screen a little coolant comes out.


Thanks. Will take a look at fitment for this one in the upcoming loop. If I can't figure that out, will just grab an in-line filter at the very least. Seems like common sense and in prior loops didn't even realize these filters were a thing. Would have helped a lot of my problems in last build with flaky plating.


----------



## mmmz

Phroz3 said:


> Sneak peek. Have to get the lines bent at some time today and leak test it.


Do you have any tips for how to make those cuts in the pads? Like what tool did you use?


----------



## m4fox90

Foundation block delivered today! As with my Pump+Res unit, total time from ordered to doorstep was just over a month. Excited to put it all together!


----------



## JustinThyme

Pump res I didint bother with as I just dont like the looks for ones (clashes with my buid) and not all the please with the included pumps. Ill stay with my HK tube 200 and D5 Next pump at the bottom but did grab a foundation for giggles to check it against the Sig V2 as someone else on here claimed the foundation was better performance wise and I had a lot of freebie points at PPCs so paid next to nothing for it and got it in 3 days. What I found at least on the 10980XE, there really is no measurable difference in the Sig V2, The foundation and the EK magnitude.Once you get them seated correctly with the right amount of TIM (Biggest PITA) they all operate within 1C of each other and I had low 4.8Ghz on all 18 cores at 79C and highs at 81C for highs on all 3 with all else being the same with 24C ambient. What it comes down to is which you like the best. IMO the Siv V2 while being a huge chunk of heavy plated brass is the least pleasing motely because you are stuck with in on the left and out on the right unless you dont mind moutine with lgo upside down. Teh other two are reversible and the Magnitude has multiple choices in jet plates and cold plates to plat with to best meet your IHS curvature without breaking out the side grinder. The magnitude acrylic is easy on the eyes as us the all nickel.


----------



## Phroz3

mmmz said:


> Do you have any tips for how to make those cuts in the pads? Like what tool did you use?


I just used a small xacto knife. Once cut all the way around, just use the tip to pry up on an edge and peel it up. Was super easy.


----------



## JustinThyme

Exacto knives are wonderful tools. Bought an entire kit long ago. Thing is to make sure you keep sharp blades. Get them rusted up or dull and may as well break out a lawnmower blade.


----------



## straha20

Just got my shipping notification for my two silver blemish reservoirs.

*ORDER #OP3720*

Now let's see how well the USPS does in getting it here by Saturday. I mean, I am only a two hour drive away.


----------



## dwolvin

So... Next Thursday.


----------



## Phroz3

JustinThyme said:


> Exacto knives are wonderful tools. Bought an entire kit long ago. Thing is to make sure you keep sharp blades. Get them rusted up or dull and may as well break out a lawnmower blade.


I still remember the first kit I got when I was a kid. Came in a wooden box. Got it from either Hobby Town USA or Tower Hobbies. Now that I think about it, I think it was a free gift from Tower Hobbies from when I got a remote control car.


----------



## JustinThyme

Phroz3 said:


> I still remember the first kit I got when I was a kid. Came in a wooden box. Got it from either Hobby Town USA or Tower Hobbies. Now that I think about it, I think it was a free gift from Tower Hobbies from when I got a remote control car.


Yep, that’s pretty much what I have. Wooden box with a clasp on the front about 20 different types of blades and one handle. Been using it for more years than I care to admit. I’ve bought a few replacement blades for ones that get used a lot a get dulled but when they are fresh and sharp, can’t be beat. I also take the blades out every now and then as well as the handle and wipe them down with a rag that has a little mineral oil on it to keep them from rusting. Also have a surgical kit I got though means I’ll deny until the day I die and take that secret to my grave that all the elements are extremely sharp without having to do anything to them. Surgical grade stainless. That one is in a stainless case and every tool has its own permanent handle. I don’t use it much for hobby things but when it’s time to gut and skin what you just shot for dinner, that’s my go to. Get done, run what I used though the dishwasher and right back to sparkling and clean.


----------



## JustinThyme

straha20 said:


> Just got my shipping notification for my two silver blemish reservoirs.
> 
> *ORDER #OP3720*
> 
> Now let's see how well the USPS does in getting it here by Saturday. I mean, I am only a two hour drive away.


USPS from a two hour drive? Hmmmm I’ll take the 5 day block on the pool. Most in Inefficient monkey sheet outfit ever and they get worse by the day. They cry about being broke because of email when that’s the least of it. If I have to send documents somewhere and need to know they will get there in a timely fashion I still don’t use USPS. Only time they get things to me on time is when it’s UPS surepost and even then they are a day late half the time. Depending on what it is and if I really need it quicker I’ll log into UPS and upgrade it to ground and get it a day earlier instead of 2-3 days late.


----------



## Iceman2733

How is the wait going with the GPU blocks? I don’t have Twitter so I can’t read comments. I saw they still have some available. I had read on Reddit a bit ago horror stories of orders from November still not being shipped.


----------



## JustinThyme

Iceman2733 said:


> How is the wait going with the GPU blocks? I don’t have Twitter so I can’t read comments. I saw they still have some available. I had read on Reddit a bit ago horror stories of orders from November still not being shipped.


Slow....Deliveries happening but timely just is not part of the vocabulary.


----------



## Phroz3

Iceman2733 said:


> How is the wait going with the GPU blocks? I don’t have Twitter so I can’t read comments. I saw they still have some available. I had read on Reddit a bit ago horror stories of orders from November still not being shipped.


Jan 29th order here. Got mine last Friday.


----------



## Phroz3

Saw over on the EVGA forum the other day that they are allowing a "special RMA" for people (like myself) that find that their 3090 FTW3 is power limited or has power balance issues. It's in the XOC Beta Bios thread. I put it for it yesterday. I'm only hitting 430 watts on the 500 watt bios.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> Saw over on the EVGA forum the other day that they are allowing a "special RMA" for people (like myself) that find that their 3090 FTW3 is power limited or has power balance issues. It's in the XOC Beta Bios thread. I put it for it yesterday. I'm only hitting 430 watts on the 500 watt bios.


I dare not try it till i get waterblocked


----------



## maxxx.ph

Phroz3 said:


> Jan 29th order here. Got mine last Friday.


Also waiting from the Jan 29th order. 3501.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> I dare not try it till i get waterblocked


That is what I waited for. Started messing around with the 500 watt BIOS this week after installing the block over last weekend. This is pretty much as far as I have been able to get this card.


----------



## Section31

duplicate


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> That is what I waited for. Started messing around with the 500 watt BIOS this week after installing the block over last weekend. This is pretty much as far as I have been able to get this card.


I read the nov/dec batch was effected


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> I read the nov/dec batch was effected


That would be the right timing. I received it in the first week of December.


----------



## JustinThyme

Phroz3 said:


> That is what I waited for. Started messing around with the 500 watt BIOS this week after installing the block over last weekend. This is pretty much as far as I have been able to get this card.


But is that power limited? 450 watts on 500 watt bios does meant its power limited. Not if you were peaking and being throttled because of a limit that's another story. Careful play of words. Now if you were hitting 500 watts then being held back over that, that is power limited.


----------



## Phroz3

JustinThyme said:


> But is that power limited? 450 watts on 500 watt bios does meant its power limited. Not if you were peaking and being throttled because of a limit that's another story. Careful play of words. Now if you were hitting 500 watts then being held back over that, that is power limited.


You can see it's power limited though from gpuz. Perfcap reason. Power. That info is coming directly from the gpu.


----------



## whaleboy_4096

Iceman2733 said:


> How is the wait going with the GPU blocks? I don’t have Twitter so I can’t read comments. I saw they still have some available. I had read on Reddit a bit ago horror stories of orders from November still not being shipped.


FYI, you don't need a twitter account to read their tweets in a browser. Just click on their twitter account link at the bottom of their store page.


----------



## Iceman2733

whaleboy_4096 said:


> FYI, you don't need a twitter account to read their tweets in a browser. Just click on their twitter account link at the bottom of their store page.


I understand that, I am talking about seeing other people’s comments on there post. I had read on Reddit quite a few of there post are filled with people commenting about not receiving blocks


----------



## Darb

GPU blocks are available on Optimus website.


----------



## Shawnb99

I want my KPE block!!


----------



## Optimus WC

Iceman2733 said:


> I understand that, I am talking about seeing other people’s comments on there post. I had read on Reddit quite a few of there post are filled with people commenting about not receiving blocks


Those are older comments when we were having big sourcing challenges late last year. Blocks are now shipping regularly, all the early orders have shipped, there are a few left from batch 3, then we'll be shipping orders from last month.


----------



## Iceman2733

Optimus WC said:


> Those are older comments when we were having big sourcing challenges late last year. Blocks are now shipping regularly, all the early orders have shipped, there are a few left from batch 3, then we'll be shipping orders from last month.


I emailed asking about this, have you guys ran into any trouble with the weight of the block/backplate in a horizontal setup? I am not wanting to vertically mount the gpu however I know the EK block adds enough to cause quite the sag and I know your block is a monster! 

going to start watching and pick one up when I see them live again on the site


----------



## Optimus WC

Iceman2733 said:


> I emailed asking about this, have you guys ran into any trouble with the weight of the block/backplate in a horizontal setup? I am not wanting to vertically mount the gpu however I know the EK block adds enough to cause quite the sag and I know your block is a monster!
> 
> going to start watching and pick one up when I see them live again on the site


No issues so far, the block is pretty balanced even though it's heavy. Though it should have support if the case is being moved around (pretty standard even for the big air cards). 

An active backplate will def add a lot of weight. FYI, our blocks can't use other backplates since our backplate is actually a supporting heatsink that is used to mount the block correctly.


----------



## maxxx.ph

Optimus WC said:


> Those are older comments when we were having big sourcing challenges late last year. Blocks are now shipping regularly, all the early orders have shipped, there are a few left from batch 3, then we'll be shipping orders from last month.


Batch 3 is from the January batch or earlier?


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Got my blemish reservoir last night. What a beefy booger! Can't wait to test it against my DDC setups. I like how the pump volute is properly shaped. Only bad part is that the reservoir bottom mounting holes do not line up with my EK Unimount.


----------



## inedenimadam

I just came to this thread from 3090 owners club. I too am in need of a KPE block.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Those are older comments when we were having big sourcing challenges late last year. Blocks are now shipping regularly, all the early orders have shipped, there are a few left from batch 3, then we'll be shipping orders from last month.


Thank you for the update. It will be nice to receive my ftw3 blocks at last


----------



## Biggu

Shawnb99 said:


> I want my KPE block!!


and I want my Strix block!


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

I just put my new reservoir into a simple countertop test loop consisting of a GTS360 radiator and my original Optimus V1 waterblock. I'm using a Primochill D5 PWM pump. I haven't used a D5 in probably 15 years and hated the whine it made at speed #3 or up. This reservoir heavily damps the motor noise to almost nothing when sitting on a foam block. Inside a case I'm sure it would be inaudible. 

One thing I noticed in my test loop is that the reservoir pulls a pretty good cyclone along with mad flow compared to what I'm used to with my DDCs. What can I do to kill that thing besides slow down the pump or add more things to the loop for restriction?


----------



## straha20

dwolvin said:


> So... Next Thursday.


Well, my reservoirs have been moving within the postal service network, and are now only a 45 minute drive away from me. So hopefully tomorrow.


----------



## straha20

Voodoo Rufus said:


> I just put my new reservoir into a simple countertop test loop consisting of a GTS360 radiator and my original Optimus V1 waterblock. I'm using a Primochill D5 PWM pump. I haven't used a D5 in probably 15 years and hated the whine it made at speed #3 or up. This reservoir heavily damps the motor noise to almost nothing when sitting on a foam block. Inside a case I'm sure it would be inaudible.
> 
> One thing I noticed in my test loop is that the reservoir pulls a pretty good cyclone along with mad flow compared to what I'm used to with my DDCs. What can I do to kill that thing besides slow down the pump or add more things to the loop for restriction?


When I had my black acetyl dual reservoirs set up on a test loop with 2 360 GTX's, it had massive whirlpooling, but fortunately wasn't actually pulling any air down into the pumps. I was debating on how to dampen when my wife solved it for me. She said she liked the whirlpools, especially the way my modded lighting danced off of it. So I am going to have whirlpools.


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Maybe something like this would nuke the cyclone: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GMV12BT/ref=wl_mb_wl_huc_mrai_1_dp

It's made for aquarium setups, hopefully our additives won't shred it.


----------



## Phroz3

I reached out to Optimus yesterday but haven't heard back. Wanted to get replacement thermal pads from them. I will be tearing my card down over the weekend so I can send it back to EVGA. I don't believe the thermal pads that are on there will survive as fujipolys are good but fragile. Are these the same as what they gave us or at least close enough?






Amazon.com: Fujipoly/mod/smart Ultra Extreme XR-m Thermal Pad - 100 x 15 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 17.0 W/mK : Electronics


Buy Fujipoly/mod/smart Ultra Extreme XR-m Thermal Pad - 100 x 15 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 17.0 W/mK: Electronics - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


----------



## tbrown7552

inedenimadam said:


> I just came to this thread from 3090 owners club. I too am in need of a KPE block.


At this point they are ignoring anything in regards to Strix and KPE as ive seen probably 10 posts like this and they just get passed over. At this point anything outside of a FTW3 block should be considered vaporware.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> I reached out to Optimus yesterday but haven't heard back. Wanted to get replacement thermal pads from them. I will be tearing my card down over the weekend so I can send it back to EVGA. I don't believe the thermal pads that are on there will survive as fujipolys are good but fragile. Are these the same as what they gave us or at least close enough?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Fujipoly/mod/smart Ultra Extreme XR-m Thermal Pad - 100 x 15 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 17.0 W/mK : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy Fujipoly/mod/smart Ultra Extreme XR-m Thermal Pad - 100 x 15 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 17.0 W/mK: Electronics - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


I think the end of batch 3 was reached or is complete for certainty. Mine are shipping now


----------



## straha20

Phroz3 said:


> I reached out to Optimus yesterday but haven't heard back. Wanted to get replacement thermal pads from them. I will be tearing my card down over the weekend so I can send it back to EVGA. I don't believe the thermal pads that are on there will survive as fujipolys are good but fragile. Are these the same as what they gave us or at least close enough?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Fujipoly/mod/smart Ultra Extreme XR-m Thermal Pad - 100 x 15 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 17.0 W/mK : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy Fujipoly/mod/smart Ultra Extreme XR-m Thermal Pad - 100 x 15 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 17.0 W/mK: Electronics - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


Are you sending it back for RMA? If so, EVGA won't care about what shape the thermal pads are in, so long as there is something there, and the retail air cooler is back on it.


----------



## LiquidHaus

tbrown7552 said:


> At this point they are ignoring anything in regards to Strix and KPE as ive seen probably 10 posts like this and they just get passed over. At this point anything outside of a FTW3 block should be considered vaporware.


I wouldn't come to that conclusion.

There still hasn't been enough time for them to even get ahead of existing orders. From what I have seen and heard on many forums, Optimus has been backlogged quite a bit for orders. Each update they've had lately however has been getting closer to being ahead. I know they're working on a KPE block, but that takes time even without the headache of trying to catch up on pre-existing orders.

I would say though that an update to how the KPE block is going would be appreciated. For instance, if they're going to create a new flow pattern based on the PCB shape, etc.


I can hear the AIO pump in my KPE above everything else. Going mad. Might slap a Koolance Universal GPU block on it if we don't hear anything back from Optimus about their block.

EVGA's HC blocks were delayed too though, so there's that.


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> Are you sending it back for RMA? If so, EVGA won't care about what shape the thermal pads are in, so long as there is something there, and the retail air cooler is back on it.


Yes I am sending it in for Jacob's "special" RMA for cards with power balancing/power limit issues. Mine is only able to hit 430watts or so before the card goes into PerfCap power limit. The card they send back is supposed to get to the 500w limit, not have a balancing issue, and comes preinstalled with the 500 watt xoc bios in the OC switch position. Good to know about them not caring about the shape of the pads. I destroyed the VRM pads taking it apart though and I already ordered some replacements that should be here Sunday.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Phroz3 said:


> Yes I am sending it in for Jacob's "special" RMA for cards with power balancing/power limit issues. Mine is only able to hit 430watts or so before the card goes into PerfCap power limit. The card they send back is supposed to get to the 500w limit, not have a balancing issue, and comes preinstalled with the 500 watt xoc bios in the OC switch position. Good to know about them not caring about the shape of the pads. I destroyed the VRM pads taking it apart though and I already ordered some replacements that should be here Sunday.


Alot easier to flash the xc3 bios for a higher limit and be done with it. My rma replacement card throttles around 450w with the 500w bios. Same behavior as my original card from November.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Also, KPE, KPE, KPE


----------



## Phroz3

Edge0fsanity said:


> Alot easier to flash the xc3 bios for a higher limit and be done with it. My rma replacement card throttles around 450w with the 500w bios. Same behavior as my original card from November.


This is a program that just started last week and cards are just starting to go out this week that are basically hand picked to hit the 500watts. Supposed to also be void of the power balance issue that often underperforms on pcie cable 3 and pulls too much power from the pcie slot. I don't want to do the work around with the XC3 bios.


----------



## JustinThyme

Phroz3 said:


> You can see it's power limited though from gpuz. Perfcap reason. Power. That info is coming directly from the gpu.


Sorry, hard to make it out, a bit fuzzy on my 3440x1440 monitor


----------



## Phroz3

JustinThyme said:


> Sorry, hard to make it out, a bit fuzzy on my 3440x1440 monitor


That'll do it lol probably nice and stretched out. Been thinking of moving to that res. Running 2x 32inch right now. Either that or the 48 inch LG CX.


----------



## Shawnb99

tbrown7552 said:


> At this point they are ignoring anything in regards to Strix and KPE as ive seen probably 10 posts like this and they just get passed over. At this point anything outside of a FTW3 block should be considered vaporware.


Last message a week ago was they were just finishing the Strix block and are setting up the machines for new blocks. So no they are not ignoring us nor is it vaporware. They just don't have any information for us, rather then tell us stuff is delayed and have the children thrown tantrums, it's better not to say anything at all. Parents with small children will understand the reasoning


----------



## JustinThyme

My kids are gown and well past the tantrums. Its me now, LOL
I dont throw tantrums, I just dont place the order for something I may never live to see. They have been "finishing" the strix block for a good 4 months or more. Setting up a machine for something so simplistic as a water block take like 10 minutes with a 5 minute coffee break worked in there. If the CAD is done just have to dump it Once upon a time I worked in an aluminum wheel plant. Poke one button to change products, simultaneously 3 CNC machines programs changed as well as robot timings and dimensions of pick ups. Only human intervention was loading in the raw cast in one in and pulling the finished product off of a roller conveyor and checking it for burrs.


----------



## ToWi

JustinThyme said:


> My kids are gown and well past the tantrums. Its me now, LOL
> I dont throw tantrums, I just dont place the order for something I may never live to see. They have been "finishing" the strix block for a good 4 months or more. Setting up a machine for something so simplistic as a water block take like 10 minutes with a 5 minute coffee break worked in there. If the CAD is done just have to dump it Once upon a time I worked in an aluminum wheel plant. Poke one button to change products, simultaneously 3 CNC machines programs changed as well as robot timings and dimensions of pick ups. Only human intervention was loading in the raw cast in one in and pulling the finished product off of a roller conveyor and checking it for burrs.


Maybe the case for 1offs, but if you plan to produce in series you have to make fixtures, program automatic material feed, and so on


----------



## straha20

Amazingly, USPS looks like they are going to come through...my reservoirs are out for delivery!

Fittingly though, my other hobby, aquariums, I had a tank bust over night, so have been dealing with that for the past several hours, and that will likely take up most of my weekend as it was a very heavily planted tank, so not an easy replacement. Fortunately my wife woke up in the middle of the night right about the time it happened, so I was able to save the fish.


----------



## Iceman2733

Phroz3 said:


> Yes I am sending it in for Jacob's "special" RMA for cards with power balancing/power limit issues. Mine is only able to hit 430watts or so before the card goes into PerfCap power limit. The card they send back is supposed to get to the 500w limit, not have a balancing issue, and comes preinstalled with the 500 watt xoc bios in the OC switch position. Good to know about them not caring about the shape of the pads. I destroyed the VRM pads taking it apart though and I already ordered some replacements that should be here Sunday.


My card is also doing the power limit and not hitting 500watt wasn't going to mess with it however this special RMA has me interested. Where can i find out about it, called support and they hadn't heard of it


----------



## Biggu

JustinThyme said:


> My kids are gown and well past the tantrums. Its me now, LOL
> I dont throw tantrums, I just dont place the order for something I may never live to see. They have been "finishing" the strix block for a good 4 months or more. Setting up a machine for something so simplistic as a water block take like 10 minutes with a 5 minute coffee break worked in there. If the CAD is done just have to dump it Once upon a time I worked in an aluminum wheel plant. Poke one button to change products, simultaneously 3 CNC machines programs changed as well as robot timings and dimensions of pick ups. Only human intervention was loading in the raw cast in one in and pulling the finished product off of a roller conveyor and checking it for burrs.


Im not so sure, It depends on their machine IMO. Some machines require a lot of setup. IIRC they have a new machine so its possible they are being trained on it and getting to know it before sitting down and busting out blocks. 

Im getting impatient on the Strix block as well but Id rather it be right. Im still miffed that I offered them my 3090 strix for testing and didn't get one peep back in response.


----------



## Optimus WC

Biggu said:


> Im not so sure, It depends on their machine IMO. Some machines require a lot of setup. IIRC they have a new machine so its possible they are being trained on it and getting to know it before sitting down and busting out blocks.
> 
> Im getting impatient on the Strix block as well but Id rather it be right. Im still miffed that I offered them my 3090 strix for testing and didn't get one peep back in response.


You sir are correct. And sorry for the missed email, we have a Strix in for testing, but we really appreciate it!! 

As for machining, unlike some parts in the world that have machines designed just for them (crankshafts, watches, etc etc), there is no simple easy way to make waterblocks, especially cold plates and GPUs. The actual work that goes into making a GPU is very challenging, the work that goes into making one of ours is an entirely a different level (3 piece, gasket, xl copper, rear heatsink, etc). For example, every front thermal pad is 0.5mm, not 1mm or 2mm. And that includes VRM, which is not easy to do. And finally, it's one thing to make a prototype, it's another to be able to produce them in largish quantities without each block taking 4 hours to make. 

The reasons for the delays are mostly now because FTW3 production (and everything else) has been keeping the machines at 100%. We'd love to be that company that can instantly add 10x production capability, but it takes time to grow, even if we are growing very rapidly. After all, we just launched a year and a half ago  

And, yes, we're tailoring new machines for faster, specialized production for what we do. No outside job shop could do our products, the tolerances are too tight and the cost too high. So much of our work goes into being able to make these products efficiently in house and keeping up the extreme quality. Ultra specialized tooling, latest machining tech, etc. 

So we (and everyone) underestimated 3000 series demand, and FTW3 ultra premium waterblock demand. The Strix block is designed but not made yet. The design was challenging because Strix, while a great GPU, is a PITA PCB layout. Kingpin (and ever other gpu) is much easier. That said, there are a lot of steps between design and final production. It's a week-long event, not a few minutes. The machining needs to be optimized and the advanced programs need full cycles to ensure every part that comes off is A+. 

Anyway, that should give a rough idea of what we're up to. We're working like crazy but we're a small team and super happy everyone likes our blocks and are constantly working on how to speed things up and make them in greater quantities. Alas, no easy answer, but we're making it happen


----------



## maxxx.ph

Finally got the shipping notification for the 1/29 gpu block. Thank you @Optimus WC.


----------



## Phroz3

Iceman2733 said:


> My card is also doing the power limit and not hitting 500watt wasn't going to mess with it however this special RMA has me interested. Where can i find out about it, called support and they hadn't heard of it


It's pinned to the second post





EVGA GeForce RTX 3090 FTW3 XOC BIOS - EVGA Forums


Important update 3/19/21:Newer EVGA GeForce RTX 3090 FTW3 ULTRA cards will be shipping with the XOC BIOS already loaded on the secondary position. The below BIOS should ONLY be installed if your card DID NOT already have it applied. We have a new BIOS that increases the maximum Powe...



forums.evga.com


----------



## JustinThyme

Biggu said:


> Im not so sure, It depends on their machine IMO. Some machines require a lot of setup. IIRC they have a new machine so its possible they are being trained on it and getting to know it before sitting down and busting out blocks.
> 
> Im getting impatient on the Strix block as well but Id rather it be right. Im still miffed that I offered them my 3090 strix for testing and didn't get one peep back in response.


Having been down that road the only machine that Ive seen take any time is a good old fashioned milling machine that is all set up by hand and all tool changes taking a few minutes. Any CNC made in the last 30-40 years you dump the program and let her rip. Only intervention is loading blanks and some even do that but its a stretch and costs a lot more to add a robot to take care of that part. loading blanks takes less than 30 seconds by a one armed man with two fingers on the hand he has left. I wouldn't send in a card, that's for sure. If I remember someone has already done that and still doesn't have the card back much less a block for it. Only think I can figure is they are Egyptian descendants using copper tools with wooden mallets to chisel them out by hand. Its a cut throat business. A lot of competition these days. Used to be like one but now there are dozens that are common place. Even Phanteks started making blocks that look very nice with a nice fit and finish. Now Bykski that was once a heave Asian presence is everywhere. Not that Ive seen anything Id have.

What I do know is they better get busy making blocks or get busy packing up. I have two of their CPU blocks, bought off the shelf with no wait but shipping time. They are decent blocks but there are others that perform just as well. Wont be long before the market is flooded with more blocks than there are cards to put them on.


----------



## Phroz3

JustinThyme said:


> Having been down that road the only machine that Ive seen take any time is a good old fashioned milling machine that is all set up by hand and all tool changes taking a few minutes. Any CNC made in the last 30-40 years you dump the program and let her rip. Only intervention is loading blanks and some even do that but its a stretch and costs a lot more to add a robot to take care of that part. loading blanks takes less than 30 seconds by a one armed man with two fingers on the hand he has left. I wouldn't send in a card, that's for sure. If I remember someone has already done that and still doesn't have the card back much less a block for it. Only think I can figure is they are Egyptian descendants using copper tools with wooden mallets to chisel them out by hand. Its a cut throat business. A lot of competition these days. Used to be like one but now there are dozens that are common place. Even Phanteks started making blocks that look very nice with a nice fit and finish. Now Bykski that was once a heave Asian presence is everywhere. Not that Ive seen anything Id have.
> 
> What I do know is they better get busy making blocks or get busy packing up. I have two of their CPU blocks, bought off the shelf with no wait but shipping time. They are decent blocks but there are others that perform just as well. Wont be long before the market is flooded with more blocks than there are cards to put them on.


Wouldn't the R&D and testing be the brunt of the time taken to develop a waterblock for a specific card or chip? I don't know a ton about the business. I've only worked IT for a few machine shops in my past.


----------



## Optimus WC

Phroz3 said:


> Wouldn't the R&D and testing be the brunt of the time taken to develop a waterblock for a specific card or chip?


Correct, though "R&D" is a big category. The other part is manufacturing optimization, which is progressively easier the more of one type of product we make. So the next GPUs will be faster to market than the first one.


----------



## Phroz3

@Optimus WC This is my first experience using fujipoly. Are they basically one time use? Taking my card apart for RMA this weekend. Are these good replacements if so? Amazon.com: mod/smart Fujipoly Ultra Extreme XR-m Thermal Pad - 100 x 15 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 17.0 W/mK: Computers & Accessories


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Update after running my test loop for a half day. No more cyclone effect once all the air was flushed out of the lines. Still have swirl, but not strong enough to suck a small bubble stream down any more.

Thumbs up for the Optimus reservoir!

Now to figure out how to move my top 280 to the bottom of my Fractal R6 and throw my 360 on top......D5 primary and an 18W DDC as a booster?


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Having been down that road the only machine that Ive seen take any time is a good old fashioned milling machine that is all set up by hand and all tool changes taking a few minutes. Any CNC made in the last 30-40 years you dump the program and let her rip. Only intervention is loading blanks and some even do that but its a stretch and costs a lot more to add a robot to take care of that part. loading blanks takes less than 30 seconds by a one armed man with two fingers on the hand he has left. I wouldn't send in a card, that's for sure. If I remember someone has already done that and still doesn't have the card back much less a block for it. Only think I can figure is they are Egyptian descendants using copper tools with wooden mallets to chisel them out by hand. Its a cut throat business. A lot of competition these days. Used to be like one but now there are dozens that are common place. Even Phanteks started making blocks that look very nice with a nice fit and finish. Now Bykski that was once a heave Asian presence is everywhere. Not that Ive seen anything Id have.
> 
> What I do know is they better get busy making blocks or get busy packing up. I have two of their CPU blocks, bought off the shelf with no wait but shipping time. They are decent blocks but there are others that perform just as well. Wont be long before the market is flooded with more blocks than there are cards to put them on.


That's the good thing with competition. Even with the typical lower brands moving up the ladder, it forces the top company to continue innovating if they wise to keep there titles. Prices of course have to be reasonable. Even the Barrows/Bykski have been increasing prices over the last while so it is reasonable to expect water cooling parts pricing at entry level to not be so cheap anymore.


----------



## straha20

Blemish reservoirs received.


----------



## HyperMatrix

JustinThyme said:


> *What I do know is they better get busy making blocks or get busy packing up*. I have two of their CPU blocks, bought off the shelf with no wait but shipping time. They are decent blocks but there are others that perform just as well. Wont be long before the market is flooded with more blocks than there are cards to put them on.


That's not entirely accurate. It would be in a normal economy. But this business is currently profitable even while taking longer to make and ship the blocks in question. Part of it is indeed that there is so much demand that anything anyone makes will sell. However, it's not necessarily the case here. There are several FTW3 blocks out there with better availability. Whether you're looking at the cheaper EK blocks or the even cheaper chinese ones from Bykski. Blocks are available for this card. And they're available for a lower price. But Optimus is still sold out and has people waiting to buy every piece that they manufacture. So while it would be advantageous for Optimus to increase production and take every customer they can, it wouldn't affect the viability of their business. 

Again....more blocks = more profits. But as a company that's already completely selling out of all their products, including blemished ones, they are not in a financial crisis. They are just limiting their own growth and missing out on an opportunity to steal market share away from the bigger players. But also as they've mentioned...they're growing their capabilities at a sustainable rate that doesn't require borrowing and investing money to increase their production capacity by 10x, then have a dramatic change in the supply/demand ratio, causing them to need to sell far more blocks and at more competitive prices just to be able to keep the lights on. That would be a major case of FOMO in a market that doesn't have a clear direction. Financially speaking, it wouldn't be prudent for them to expand too fast because if demand drops, they'll be forced out of a premium quality/price niche market into a mass market manufacturer, and that's not what they want for their company. The other option would be to have an outside investor come in, but again...as he's doing this inside his dad's business...they don't want to give up any control of the company to anyone else.

I'm waiting for a KPE block still. So I would be very happy if they did speed things up. But my problem with them was never the speed that they're making products. It was their communication. And I think they have been working on that a bit. As long as they're able to keep up with other market offerings that are becoming increasingly popular, like active cooled backplates, their focus on premium niche blocks will still set them apart from others and allow them to grow. There is no problem with the general business model behind optimus. The only things they need to work on is better communication, allowing themselves a better shot at keeping their promises by following the "under promise over deliver" mantra, and continuing to expand their production capacity in a sustainable fashion that doesn't jeopardize their operations should there be a major shift in the market.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> That's not entirely accurate. It would be in a normal economy. But this business is currently profitable even while taking longer to make and ship the blocks in question. Part of it is indeed that there is so much demand that anything anyone makes will sell. However, it's not necessarily the case here. There are several FTW3 blocks out there with better availability. Whether you're looking at the cheaper EK blocks or the even cheaper chinese ones from Bykski. Blocks are available for this card. And they're available for a lower price. But Optimus is still sold out and has people waiting to buy every piece that they manufacture. So while it would be advantageous for Optimus to increase production and take every customer they can, it wouldn't affect the viability of their business.
> 
> Again....more blocks = more profits. But as a company that's already completely selling out of all their products, including blemished ones, they are not in a financial crisis. They are just limiting their own growth and missing out on an opportunity to steal market share away from the bigger players. But also as they've mentioned...they're growing their capabilities at a sustainable rate that doesn't require borrowing and investing money to increase their production capacity by 10x, then have a dramatic change in the supply/demand ratio, causing them to need to sell far more blocks and at more competitive prices just to be able to keep the lights on. That would be a major case of FOMO in a market that doesn't have a clear direction. Financially speaking, it wouldn't be prudent for them to expand too fast because if demand drops, they'll be forced out of a premium quality/price niche market into a mass market manufacturer, and that's not what they want for their company. The other option would be to have an outside investor come in, but again...as he's doing this inside his dad's business...they don't want to give up any control of the company to anyone else.
> 
> I'm waiting for a KPE block still. So I would be very happy if they did speed things up. But my problem with them was never the speed that they're making products. It was their communication. And I think they have been working on that a bit. As long as they're able to keep up with other market offerings that are becoming increasingly popular, like active cooled backplates, their focus on premium niche blocks will still set them apart from others and allow them to grow. There is no problem with the general business model behind optimus. The only things they need to work on is better communication, allowing themselves a better shot at keeping their promises by following the "under promise over deliver" mantra, and continuing to expand their production capacity in a sustainable fashion that doesn't jeopardize their operations should there be a major shift in the market.


Well spoken. I have great hopes for Optimus. I am almost done my rig but for next one, will consider there expanded product line to fill out the areas i currently am not using Optimus watercooling products.


----------



## Darb

Waiting for more 16mm hardline fittings......


----------



## Vld

Today got my hands on Optimus Foundation block. In short - very impressed, everything written on Optimus webpage is true ! In details :

1. Communication - just perfect, super fast answers on questions.
2. Block got shipped after 2 days, 1 week and already in Europe, Latvia
3. Had to order so called "blemish" block, because all "normal" black acetal / nickel blocks sold out. I tried to find this "blemish" thing - apart from one tiny scratch, right next to intake port, that is invisible from 10 cm distance, did not find anything else. 
4. Great build quality, feels solid, heavier then EK Velocity, contact plate is just amazing - 100% mirror like surface, super flat.
5. Performance - naked die 10900K @ 5.1 Ghz AVX 0, vcore 1.29, 365 W max / Rockit Cool frame / Conductonaut now have high seventies average under full load with OCCT AVX2 stress test. Optimus Foundation beats sanded and polished EK Velocity by 5-6 degrees C. Noticed that temps drop bit faster going from load / idle, another improvement - no high "spikes" when starting up some benchmarks or stress tests.

So - adding this to my "great things made in USA" list


----------



## JustinThyme

HyperMatrix said:


> That's not entirely accurate. It would be in a normal economy. But this business is currently profitable even while taking longer to make and ship the blocks in question. Part of it is indeed that there is so much demand that anything anyone makes will sell. However, it's not necessarily the case here. There are several FTW3 blocks out there with better availability. Whether you're looking at the cheaper EK blocks or the even cheaper chinese ones from Bykski. Blocks are available for this card. And they're available for a lower price. But Optimus is still sold out and has people waiting to buy every piece that they manufacture. So while it would be advantageous for Optimus to increase production and take every customer they can, it wouldn't affect the viability of their business.
> 
> Again....more blocks = more profits. But as a company that's already completely selling out of all their products, including blemished ones, they are not in a financial crisis. They are just limiting their own growth and missing out on an opportunity to steal market share away from the bigger players. But also as they've mentioned...they're growing their capabilities at a sustainable rate that doesn't require borrowing and investing money to increase their production capacity by 10x, then have a dramatic change in the supply/demand ratio, causing them to need to sell far more blocks and at more competitive prices just to be able to keep the lights on. That would be a major case of FOMO in a market that doesn't have a clear direction. Financially speaking, it wouldn't be prudent for them to expand too fast because if demand drops, they'll be forced out of a premium quality/price niche market into a mass market manufacturer, and that's not what they want for their company. The other option would be to have an outside investor come in, but again...as he's doing this inside his dad's business...they don't want to give up any control of the company to anyone else.
> 
> I'm waiting for a KPE block still. So I would be very happy if they did speed things up. But my problem with them was never the speed that they're making products. It was their communication. And I think they have been working on that a bit. As long as they're able to keep up with other market offerings that are becoming increasingly popular, like active cooled backplates, their focus on premium niche blocks will still set them apart from others and allow them to grow. There is no problem with the general business model behind optimus. The only things they need to work on is better communication, allowing themselves a better shot at keeping their promises by following the "under promise over deliver" mantra, and continuing to expand their production capacity in a sustainable fashion that doesn't jeopardize their operations should there be a major shift in the market.


Are you privy to the profit and loss statement? I don't believe they're publicly traded or the board would have kicked some folks to the curb faster than Steve Jobs. I HAD great hopes just for new competition to the market. From what I've seen the products are decent but not so good that they cant be replaced easily. What is abnormal about the economy and please don't say COVID. When you make two blocks a week its not hard to sell out. I really do want them to make it but lack of productivity and poor communications will lead any company, regardless of the product, into failure. I hope it doesn't happen But I've yet to see anything saying it wont. I've talked to my wife a great deal about this as I'm no business major but she holds two masters from an Ivy league school in business management and marketing and as much as I hate to say it makes more money than I do. Just a once over and her single reply...Certain doom.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> That's the good thing with competition. Even with the typical lower brands moving up the ladder, it forces the top company to continue innovating if they wise to keep there titles. Prices of course have to be reasonable. Even the Barrows/Bykski have been increasing prices over the last while so it is reasonable to expect water cooling parts pricing at entry level to not be so cheap anymore.


Well thats a plus on anyones side as those are two products I will never buy LOL


----------



## KedarWolf

JustinThyme said:


> Are you privy to the profit and loss statement? I don't believe they're publicly traded or the board would have kicked some folks to the curb faster than Steve Jobs. I HAD great hopes just for new competition to the market. From what I've seen the products are decent but not so good that they cant be replaced easily. What is abnormal about the economy and please don't say COVID. When you make two blocks a week its not hard to sell out. I really do want them to make it but lack of productivity and poor communications will lead any company, regardless of the product, into failure. I hope it doesn't happen But I've yet to see anything saying it wont. I've talked to my wife a great deal about this as I'm no business major but she holds two masters from an Ivy league school in business management and marketing and as much as I hate to say it makes more money than I do. Just a once over and her single reply...Certain doom.


If you make the best performing products on the market, you get some slack in your marketing and communication issues.


----------



## inedenimadam

LiquidHaus said:


> I wouldn't


I had the same idea with an older EK uni block I had lying around. But the hole pattern doesn't line up. Need a new bracket. I'm going to have to fab one.


----------



## JustinThyme

KedarWolf said:


> If you make the best performing products on the market, you get some slack in your marketing and communication issues.


A bit contradictory don't ya think?
They are competitive, I wouldn't say best. I've not tested a GPU block (and likely wont as Im not one to wait months on end) but tested their CPU blocks (Both the Foundation and the Sig V2) and in the end, the performance is competitive (I even called out Techpowerup who declared EK magnitude the king of the hill over 0.10C). I have tested other GPU blocks and when compared to what I've seen put up by others Id say they are also competitive. I cant call anything the best when I get the same repeatable results with other blocks. Its marketing and customer service that puts a competitive performing company above the competition. When you get crickets and excuses....people will tent to move on.


----------



## HyperMatrix

JustinThyme said:


> Are you privy to the profit and loss statement? I don't believe they're publicly traded or the board would have kicked some folks to the curb faster than Steve Jobs. I HAD great hopes just for new competition to the market. From what I've seen the products are decent but not so good that they cant be replaced easily. What is abnormal about the economy and please don't say COVID. When you make two blocks a week its not hard to sell out. I really do want them to make it but lack of productivity and poor communications will lead any company, regardless of the product, into failure. I hope it doesn't happen But I've yet to see anything saying it wont. I've talked to my wife a great deal about this as I'm no business major but she holds two masters from an Ivy league school in business management and marketing and as much as I hate to say it makes more money than I do. Just a once over and her single reply...Certain doom.


I wasn't referring to COVID itself...but rather the general increase in demand for certain products that came about as a result of COVID and people having to stay at home. If you went to your wife and said "Hey, there's a company that makes only 2 blocks a week. Are they going to fail?" then yes, I would expect her to say yes. They will fail. You're missing a few key points though:


They're making around 40 GPU blocks a week when they don't hit any snags, and are working on optimizing the process both in terms of speed and quality control, as well as expanding their production capacity.
They operate out of his dad's business. I'm not sure where the lines are drawn between them with regard to their personal/business relationship, but from personal experience I would expect them to have substantially lower business operating costs.
Speculative: From what I understand and have read online, there were tools and machinery present at his dad's business that allowed them to start making blocks. So they didn't start up the business with a substantial investment that needs to be paid off.
They're operating on a high margin/low volume basis. They have lower operation costs than their competitors. And they're charging a premium over their competitors.

I don't know what the margins may be with GPU/CPU blocks but just as a very simple example...compare a block that sells for $250 (Optimus) to a block that sells for $150 (EK). Optimus is charging 67% more than EK. Now let's throw a random number out there. Let's say the total cost to produce a block is $100. EK makes $50 on a block. Optimus makes $150. So even though Optimus is charging only 67% more than for their blocks, they're making 3x more money per block than EK. Meaning if EK can be profitable with 500 units sold per month, Optimus could hit that same profitability by selling just 167 blocks. And not only that...it's also done with a substantially better return on investment (how much money you had to spend/invest/hold inventory with in order to make $XXX).

So. Optimus had very little startup costs. Optimus has lower operating costs. Optimus has substantially better profit margins. Saying Optimus makes 2 blocks a week is similar to people who say Nvidia had a paper launch. It's borne out of frustration. And your frustration is valid. Waiting for something you really want sucks. I know because I've been waiting for a Kingpin block since December. But keep something in mind. Optimus is just 1.5 years old. It's facing the same challenges that much larger companies like Nvidia, AMD, and Intel are facing. Or in the water cooling world...companies like EK or Aquacomputer. Nobody's been able to find a great solution. And here's where the problem lies. You can increase production output by lowering quality and using cheaper/easier manufacturing methods that are less performant. But that's the exact opposite of what Optimus is about. 

At the end of the day...remember that Optimus isn't trying to be just another block manufacturer. If they were, I'd be in line to pick up one of the EVGA/Asetek Kingpin blocks. I'm not looking for good enough. I'm looking for something that is a step above. And from what I've seen...Optimus fits the bill. The only thing they're lacking is an active cooled backplate. And I hope that's something they start planning and working on soon. 

p.s. I also went to business school and work in marketing, although I can't boast fancy double credentials like your wife. Haha.


----------



## sakete

HyperMatrix said:


> I wasn't referring to COVID itself...but rather the general increase in demand for certain products that came about as a result of COVID and people having to stay at home. If you went to your wife and said "Hey, there's a company that makes only 2 blocks a week. Are they going to fail?" then yes, I would expect her to say yes. They will fail. You're missing a few key points though:
> 
> 
> They're making around 40 GPU blocks a week when they don't hit any snags, and are working on optimizing the process both in terms of speed and quality control, as well as expanding their production capacity.
> They operate out of his dad's business. I'm not sure where the lines are drawn between them with regard to their personal/business relationship, but from personal experience I would expect them to have substantially lower business operating costs.
> Speculative: From what I understand and have read online, there were tools and machinery present at his dad's business that allowed them to start making blocks. So they didn't start up the business with a substantial investment that needs to be paid off.
> They're operating on a high margin/low volume basis. They have lower operation costs than their competitors. And they're charging a premium over their competitors.
> 
> I don't know what the margins may be with GPU/CPU blocks but just as a very simple example...compare a block that sells for $250 (Optimus) to a block that sells for $150 (EK). Optimus is charging 67% more than EK. Now let's throw a random number out there. Let's say the total cost to produce a block is $100. EK makes $50 on a block. Optimus makes $150. So even though Optimus is charging only 67% more than for their blocks, they're making 3x more money per block than EK. Meaning if EK can be profitable with 500 units sold per month, Optimus could hit that same profitability by selling just 167 blocks. And not only that...it's also done with a substantially better return on investment (how much money you had to spend/invest/hold inventory with in order to make $XXX).
> 
> So. Optimus had very little startup costs. Optimus has lower operating costs. Optimus has substantially better profit margins. Saying Optimus makes 2 blocks a week is similar to people who say Nvidia had a paper launch. It's borne out of frustration. And your frustration is valid. Waiting for something you really want sucks. I know because I've been waiting for a Kingpin block since December. But keep something in mind. Optimus is just 1.5 years old. It's facing the same challenges that much larger companies like Nvidia, AMD, and Intel are facing. Or in the water cooling world...companies like EK or Aquacomputer. Nobody's been able to find a great solution. And here's where the problem lies. You can increase production output by lowering quality and using cheaper/easier manufacturing methods that are less performant. But that's the exact opposite of what Optimus is about.
> 
> At the end of the day...remember that Optimus isn't trying to be just another block manufacturer. If they were, I'd be in line to pick up one of the EVGA/Asetek Kingpin blocks. I'm not looking for good enough. I'm looking for something that is a step above. And from what I've seen...Optimus fits the bill. The only thing they're lacking is an active cooled backplate. And I hope that's something they start planning and working on soon.
> 
> p.s. I also went to business school and work in marketing, although I can't boast fancy double credentials like your wife. Haha.


Business school, in my personal experience, also having gone to business school, is highly overrated. MBA types don't really know that much about running a business, myself included  they're best suited as managers in large corporations where they can spew out their business speak nonsense all day.


----------



## Lobstar

JustinThyme said:


> A bit contradictory don't ya think?
> They are competitive, I wouldn't say best. I've not tested a GPU block (and likely wont as Im not one to wait months on end) but tested their CPU blocks (Both the Foundation and the Sig V2) and in the end, the performance is competitive (I even called out Techpowerup who declared EK magnitude the king of the hill over 0.10C). I have tested other GPU blocks and when compared to what I've seen put up by others Id say they are also competitive. I cant call anything the best when I get the same repeatable results with other blocks. Its marketing and customer service that puts a competitive performing company above the competition. When you get crickets and excuses....people will tent to move on.


This guy has never heard of Ferrari, a company that sells out it's limited production cars before they are available to people they hand pick to buy them. Similar to EVGA with those kingpin cards they refuse to sell to people that don't hand wash Jacob's balls at least once a year. Market scarcity can drive exotic products, especially those with a focus on craftsmanship and performance. I would never pay near $400 for an EKWB product but didn't blink an eye at a product proven to have excellent build quality. This happens all the time in the world of performance cars. A small company solves a problem with a product that could also be a work of art and make very low quantities of actual product but sustain sales for years with waiting lists as people clamor for the opportunity to buy it. Similar with craft beer or hot sauces.

I'm not saying they wouldn't do better if they could secure more manufacturing resources but I'm willing to bet they aren't having any trouble keeping food in their employee's mouths.


----------



## JustinThyme

Lobstar said:


> This guy has never heard of Ferrari, a company that sells out it's limited production cars before they are available to people they hand pick to buy them. Similar to EVGA with those kingpin cards they refuse to sell to people that don't hand wash Jacob's balls at least once a year. Market scarcity can drive exotic products, especially those with a focus on craftsmanship and performance. I would never pay near $400 for an EKWB product but didn't blink an eye at a product proven to have excellent build quality. This happens all the time in the world of performance cars. A small company solves a problem with a product that could also be a work of art and make very low quantities of actual product but sustain sales for years with waiting lists as people clamor for the opportunity to buy it. Similar with craft beer or hot sauces.
> 
> I'm not saying they wouldn't do better if they could secure more manufacturing resources but I'm willing to bet they aren't having any trouble keeping food in their employee's mouths.


Yeah not hard to feed two people in daddy’s shop.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah not hard to feed two people in daddy’s shop.


Its time the ocn community work together start an enuthiast level company to serve on cases and watercooling parts. You can lead the way


----------



## tbrown7552

Lobstar said:


> Similar to EVGA with those kingpin cards they refuse to sell to people that don't hand wash Jacob's balls at least once a year.


ummm wat?


----------



## WaXmAn

LiquidHaus said:


> I wouldn't come to that conclusion.
> 
> There still hasn't been enough time for them to even get ahead of existing orders. From what I have seen and heard on many forums, Optimus has been backlogged quite a bit for orders. Each update they've had lately however has been getting closer to being ahead. I know they're working on a KPE block, but that takes time even without the headache of trying to catch up on pre-existing orders.
> 
> I would say though that an update to how the KPE block is going would be appreciated. For instance, if they're going to create a new flow pattern based on the PCB shape, etc.
> 
> 
> I can hear the AIO pump in my KPE above everything else. Going mad. Might slap a Koolance Universal GPU block on it if we don't hear anything back from Optimus about their block.
> 
> EVGA's HC blocks were delayed too though, so there's that.


I'm going MAD as well with this AIO pump on my KPE, one month it was silent and now it sounds like a fridge  Debating RMAing, but it will be the same problem again. We need a KPE WB option ASAP!!


----------



## Phroz3

WaXmAn said:


> I'm going MAD as well with this AIO pump on my KPE, one month it was silent and now it sounds like a fridge  Debating RMAing, but it will be the same problem again. We need a KPE WB option ASAP!!


We know that Optimus is working on it. I read one of their posts recently, not sure if it was here or twitter where they said they will keep access to the SLI fingers. They can confirm here if that is true @Optimus WC


----------



## onMute

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1372932907040317440


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Its time the ocn community work together start an enuthiast level company to serve on cases and watercooling parts. You can lead the way


Nah I get cussed enough working in financial data centers. You think the people here are complaining? More like compliments compared to what I get. I don’t show up when things are all fat dumb a s happy. I get called in when their is a problem and half the time they want to spend 2 hours on a conference call trying to figure out who to blame it on. I’m like you guys can take care of this, I’m not a finger pointer, I’m a problem solver. Leave me to my work and you guys can blame Section 31 after I’m done and gone. LOL

I see a lot of people take offense to my points. That’s OK. I really do want them to succeed, said that many times from the beginning mostly to light a fire under the a$$ of everyone else and drive some innovation instead of complacency. Competition is good but to drive that competition you have to deliver. I’m still waiting on my flat Sig V2 top.......been going on 2 months now I think and they had “plenty of them laying around”. All I’m hearing are crickets. Said contact them here. I posted, PMd and emailed. Nothing......not even a kiss my a$$. Found the Sig V2 performs better on a 10980XE with the Oring pulled. They even called my name about it. Nothing.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Nah I get cussed enough working in financial data centers. You think the people here are complaining? More like compliments compared to what I get. I don’t show up when things are all fat dumb a s happy. I get called in when their is a problem and half the time they want to spend 2 hours on a conference call trying to figure out who to blame it on. I’m like you guys can take care of this, I’m not a finger pointer, I’m a problem solver. Leave me to my work and you guys can blame Section 31 after I’m done and gone. LOL
> 
> I see a lot of people take offense to my points. That’s OK. I really do want them to succeed, said that many times from the beginning mostly to light a fire under the a$$ of everyone else and drive some innovation instead of complacency. Competition is good but to drive that competition you have to deliver. I’m still waiting on my flat Sig V2 top.......been going on 2 months now I think and they had “plenty of them laying around”. All I’m hearing are crickets. Said contact them here. I posted, PMd and emailed. Nothing......not even a kiss my a$$. Found the Sig V2 performs better on a 10980XE with the Oring pulled. They even called my name about it. Nothing.


That's life of IT people working in financial sector based companies. I totally get you there.


----------



## inedenimadam

Lobstar said:


> EVGA with those kingpin cards they refuse to sell to people that don't hand wash Jacob's balls at least once a year.


Whoa whoa whoa...

I got my KPE from the wait list, and didn't wash anybody's balls but my own in the process.


----------



## Lobstar

inedenimadam said:


> Whoa whoa whoa...
> 
> I got my KPE from the wait list, and didn't wash anybody's balls but my own in the process.


Riiiiight ... I'm not judging. A KPE is a KPE!


----------



## Sir Beregond

JustinThyme said:


> they want to spend 2 hours on a conference call trying to figure out who to blame it on. I’m like you guys can take care of this, I’m not a finger pointer, I’m a problem solver.


So true. Very rare to find places that don't do that. I am lucky in that my current company does not do that...at least in our rather large department. The other side of the company which I luckily very rarely have to deal with, yeah more like what you describe.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> That's life of IT people working in financial sector based companies. I totally get you there.


What makes it even worse is they hire “consulting engineers” to jump in stirring sheet too. One in particular was thrown out by security when I was done. They were load banking a 2MW UPS and it kept giving them a transfer fault when they tried to go from online to bypass. I get in they guide me to an ambush conference call with that Bozo throwing us under the bus. I’m like look you want me to take care of the problem or sit here and listen to someone who doesn’t have a clue? They agreed on a call back in an hour. Took me all of 30 seconds to identify the problem. Capt Jack wagon had the electrician connect the load bank cables in the wrong place and the system saw it as a back feed and did exactly as it was designed to do. I’m like who told you to connect the cables there? He pointed at the “consulting engineer”. I’m like move those cables to the system output where they belong. Fired it up, works fine. Lasts a long time. Had the conference call back up in 30 minutes instead of an hour. They asked what the problem was and I just stated the cables were connected at the wrong point. Simple right? “Consulting engineer” starts yelling saying we should label where the cables should go! I couldn’t hold my tongue after that. I told him he should know how something is supposed to work before testing its operation, about like a kid shoving bubble gum up their a$$ to see how it tastes. Voice from the National honcho on the other end of the phone was screaming get that Moron out of my building. They asked was he taking about me, he said no that POS consultant that couldn’t find his way to the local grocery store with no turns. Well needless to say they don’t work in there anymore but they found equally stupid people to replace them. We’re more than happy to do the tests but they consider it a conflict of interest for us to prove our own gear. So they rely on idiots instead! LOL


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> What makes it even worse is they hire “consulting engineers” to jump in stirring sheet too. One in particular was thrown out by security when I was done. They were load banking a 2MW UPS and it kept giving them a transfer fault when they tried to go from online to bypass. I get in they guide me to an ambush conference call with that Bozo throwing us under the bus. I’m like look you want me to take care of the problem or sit here and listen to someone who doesn’t have a clue? They agreed on a call back in an hour. Took me all of 30 seconds to identify the problem. Capt Jack wagon had the electrician connect the load bank cables in the wrong place and the system saw it as a back feed and did exactly as it was designed to do. I’m like who told you to connect the cables there? He pointed at the “consulting engineer”. I’m like move those cables to the system output where they belong. Fired it up, works fine. Lasts a long time. Had the conference call back up in 30 minutes instead of an hour. They asked what the problem was and I just stated the cables were connected at the wrong point. Simple right? “Consulting engineer” starts yelling saying we should label where the cables should go! I couldn’t hold my tongue after that. I told him he should know how something is supposed to work before testing its operation, about like a kid shoving bubble gum up their a$$ to see how it tastes. Voice from the National honcho on the other end of the phone was screaming get that Moron out of my building. They asked was he taking about me, he said no that POS consultant that couldn’t find his way to the local grocery store with no turns. Well needless to say they don’t work in there anymore but they found equally stupid people to replace them. We’re more than happy to do the tests but they consider it a conflict of interest for us to prove our own gear. So they rely on idiots instead! LOL


You should follow here, not just optimus taking heat. WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo

Instead of optimus ftw3, blocks substitute heatkiller ftw3 block (radeon 6000 series ahead of it) and there internal radiators lol.


----------



## JustinThyme

Difference is Optiumus is doing 3 blocks unless something else happened I'm not privy to FTW3, Foundation and Optimus. They are ALL slow on new products. I think I bought my Strx 2080Ti cards in like Sept when they launched and it was May before anyone but Barrow and bykski had one, I actually bought two Phanteks blocks in the interim because They have a decent cooling engine but used the stock back plate which is better off than on as it makes zero contact, just holds in heat. Strix at this point will be obsolete before the first one rolls out. The 3080Ti will be rolling out soon. Dont know if the card will be any different as far as component placement. Not that any of this really matters as they just arent out there unless you want to pay a scalper on Fleabay which unfortunately a lot of people do. Thats what drives that market.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Difference is Optiumus is doing 3 blocks unless something else happened I'm not privy to FTW3, Foundation and Optimus. They are ALL slow on new products. I think I bought my Strx 2080Ti cards in like Sept when they launched and it was May before anyone but Barrow and bykski had one, I actually bought two Phanteks blocks in the interim because They have a decent cooling engine but used the stock back plate which is better off than on as it makes zero contact, just holds in heat. Strix at this point will be obsolete before the first one rolls out. The 3080Ti will be rolling out soon. Dont know if the card will be any different as far as component placement. Not that any of this really matters as they just arent out there unless you want to pay a scalper on Fleabay which unfortunately a lot of people do. Thats what drives that market.


Actually if this market remains as is, I see opportunity for some of us lol. I am seriously considering placing an backorder for 3080ti FTW3 at evga/local retailer and in the process, save couple hundred cad by reselling my 3090 for costs. Has to be FTW3 since my block is coming in couple days.

Key is that I can walk away from the deal without paying anything. 3090 was/is overkill for me and if there's chance for me to come out ahead monetary wise without losing anything performance wise or any lose on costs for the 3090ftw3, i will do it.


----------



## Dreams-Visions

Hey folks - Is Liquid Utopia safe to use on Optimus waterblocks? I was just looking at some GPU blocks and saw it on their "incompatible" list, which took me by surprise. Want to make sure so I don't mess anything up.


----------



## ninopecorino

Dreams-Visions said:


> Hey folks - Is Liquid Utopia safe to use on Optimus waterblocks? I was just looking at some GPU blocks and saw it on their "incompatible" list, which took me by surprise. Want to make sure so I don't mess anything up.


no, that's a copper sulphate solution. it's terrible on nickel.


----------



## Swiso

Yay...got shipping notification for my FTW3 Block ordered on 12th February.


----------



## Sir Beregond

ninopecorino said:


> no, that's a copper sulphate solution. it's terrible on nickel.


Huh...wonder if that was part of my issue with my blocks then. I briefly ran distilled + liquid utopia before going to distilled + biocide/inhibitor and later Mayhems X1.


----------



## Jon01010

Swiso said:


> Yay...got shipping notification for my FTW3 Block ordered on 12th February.


 That's exciting. I got my order in very early that day #3608 so maybe I'll be shipping soon as well.


----------



## Swiso

Jon01010 said:


> That's exciting. I got my order in very early that day #3608 so maybe I'll be shipping soon as well.


My order was #3585....


----------



## Section31

Just got the block. The block is very nice feels heavy too. I also really like the blemish matte black color fittings you guys never came out with. It's probably better looking than xe-nickel


----------



## straha20

Got everything put together...


----------



## Sir Beregond

straha20 said:


> Got everything put together...


That's sexy.


----------



## straha20

Sir Beregond said:


> That's sexy.


Thanks! It's as much an Optimus build as is possible. GPU block, CPU block, fittings and reservoirs.


----------



## BULLGOD19

I want to give a shout out to Matt @Optimus WC for getting a replacement terminal for my FTW3 block (that I broke a piece of the threading taking off a fitting, not their fault) and replacement screws for my AM4 block, that I misplaced, out to me quickly.


----------



## Section31

couple questions for those with blocks. I take it you got to install the original bracket at same time with backplate and the where are the top cover 4 long screws and 6 short screws suppose to go.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Are there any updates on AM4 foundation block availability? Want to buy one of these really badly. Going to move my 5950x build into my gaming PC but I need a CPU block.


----------



## dwolvin

Seconded on 'what's the lead time for AM4 block?'


----------



## Section31

Figured it out, dont build blocks at midnights lol. One nice looking block. 

Optimus confirmed the copperish elements are from radiators. Tried toothpaste and water, any way to clean off the remaining copperish elements. Going to drain whole loop again and clean out that mo-ra3 throughly


----------



## LiquidHaus

inedenimadam said:


> I had the same idea with an older EK uni block I had lying around. But the hole pattern doesn't line up. Need a new bracket. I'm going to have to fab one.
> View attachment 2483108



Thanks for showing this! I haven't even had the chance to open up my KPE.

In the photo, it looks as though the mounting bolts are lined up on the left side, but as you said the right said holes are then misaligned. Am I correct with that assessment?

Also, how's the mounting with the copper memory cooling plate installed as well?


----------



## Phroz3

straha20 said:


> Got everything put together...


Those reservoirs are some thick boys. Those fittings look [email protected] as well.


----------



## ToWi

dwolvin said:


> Seconded on 'what's the lead time for AM4 block?'


Still waiting on my order from feb 14th.

Update: just check the status and sais its shipped.

Tast time they dropped a new batch it was approx 1 month from the previous one. I believe last one was previous friday. I would say probably in 2 weeks, but keep your eyes open for twitter updates on fridays.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, I should check if I'm following there...


----------



## jvillaveces

nice build!


----------



## jincuteguy

straha20 said:


> Swapped out my EK PE rads for HWL GTX's.
> 
> Two hours running Heaven...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps look decent. 23c ambient. Still a bit jarring seeing the super high glitchy temps on the icx sensors. The T_Sensor is between the CPU block and RAM.


So is it better with the HWL GTX?


----------



## JustinThyme

Yeah its not about the brand, its about the performance. PE and GTX are fairly similar. I have a 480XE in the bottom and a 420GTR up top. About to change some things around as soon as I get a few days break from work. Went from nothing for a few months to do to 70-80 hours/week. Order up all the stuff now its sitting partially put together. Removing 480 in the bottom, 420 moving down below, 360GTS at mid is going in the front where a 360SE is and those will be the only two rads in after. The rest is going to be an added MORA-3 420 outside the case with 10ft (give or take) of tubing so I can move it around and two more D5 pumps. 

Also what are you cooling at what clocks? GPU looks like it needs a block hitting 94. Have a pair of 2080Tis in my loop and they top out at 40C. Something is working well when you can get your VRMs min to sub ambient. 35C is as low as mine goes at idle with 23-24C ambient.


----------



## Section31

Just making sure actual mount is suppose to have that huge gap


----------



## crefjouy

I understand the Optimus GPU block for cards with radial caps use 0.5mm thermal pads. Is this enough to prevent hold off or lost contact considering the higher tolerances associated with using radial caps? Assuming, of course, that they are machined to make contact with the caps and chokes as well as the VRMs.

Also does anyone know the spec of the pads shipped with the kit? Are they the 14W/mK's?


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys,

The thermal pads made contact with the mosfets and inductors(chokes). You can see install instructions below. Pads aren't needed for the caps and really the inductors as well. the 0.5mm pads on the hot mosfets and ram and our HUGE XL heatsink backplate really suck up all the heat.

The thermal pads themselves are Fujipoly Sarcon 6w/mk, not the others. The thing about thermal pads is there is the wmk isn't the only important variable. The overall design and compression of the pad plays more of a role in cooling. So higher number and thicker pads with looser tolerances will perform much worse than our pads at this thickness at this compression. There is a performance window and we nail it.

Also, the higher ones are simply super difficult to use and keep from breaking apart at this thickness. Going up to 1mm thick at higher numbers would be both more expensive and worse performance.

MOUNTING GAP: Also worth noting is that gap is both intentional and not an issue. Because the rear heatsink/backplate is used to create tension, there is zero way for the block to not make correct contact. In fact, it's almost impossible to over/under tighten the block and very, very difficult to bend or damage the PCB and cause issues. The gap between pcb and block is because of the clearances -- it's a monster piece of copper, so it sticks out way more. If we went thin, it'd be easier to make the whole thing flush and fancy, but we always look for performance first.


----------



## Phroz3

Optimus WC said:


> but we always look for performance first.


This is the way. Sorry, on a Mando kick!


----------



## Section31

Getting some very nice results on my ftw3 block. Impressed with the cooling performance for sure

I wonder how there radiator will be. Peaked my interest there


----------



## crefjouy

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> The thermal pads made contact with the mosfets and inductors(chokes). You can see install instructions below. Pads aren't needed for the caps and really the inductors as well. the 0.5mm pads on the hot mosfets and ram and our HUGE XL heatsink backplate really suck up all the heat.
> 
> The thermal pads themselves are Fujipoly Sarcon 6w/mk, not the others. The thing about thermal pads is there is the wmk isn't the only important variable. The overall design and compression of the pad plays more of a role in cooling. So higher number and thicker pads with looser tolerances will perform much worse than our pads at this thickness at this compression. There is a performance window and we nail it.
> 
> Also, the higher ones are simply super difficult to use and keep from breaking apart at this thickness. Going up to 1mm thick at higher numbers would be both more expensive and worse performance.
> 
> MOUNTING GAP: Also worth noting is that gap is both intentional and not an issue. Because the rear heatsink/backplate is used to create tension, there is zero way for the block to not make correct contact. In fact, it's almost impossible to over/under tighten the block and very, very difficult to bend or damage the PCB and cause issues. The gap between pcb and block is because of the clearances -- it's a monster piece of copper, so it sticks out way more. If we went thin, it'd be easier to make the whole thing flush and fancy, but we always look for performance first.
> 
> View attachment 2483712
> View attachment 2483711


Interesting to hear about the handling issues related to the 11s and 14W/mK 0.5mm thermal pads.

I know you are never allowed to ask this in 2021 but when do you think you will introduce active back plate cooling to the EVGA FTW3 series cards?


----------



## agentdark45

@Optimus WC I'm getting some leaking around the large gasket on my 3090 block - I assume it's due to capillary action (water seeping between the metal and plexi, not being stopped by the gasket). It was originally quite bad, however after dissembling the block and not tightening the screws on the plexi as much I thought the problem was solved...however the issue has returned over a few weeks.

How best to solve this?

Thanks


----------



## Lobstar

I'd like to make the friendly suggestion to remove the 1-2 week shipping notification from your website. It's very misleading. I'm one day off a month from my order.


----------



## Optimus WC

agentdark45 said:


> @Optimus WC I'm getting some leaking around the large gasket on my 3090 block - I assume it's due to capillary action (water seeping between the metal and plexi, not being stopped by the gasket). It was originally quite bad, however after dissembling the block and not tightening the screws on the plexi as much I thought the problem was solved...however the issue has returned over a few weeks.
> 
> How best to solve this?
> 
> Thanks


Hey there, that's no good! Can you send pics of your system and block to our contact @ optimus email, and I can address it there and send it to the right guys. All the blocks get pressure tested before going out, though it's possible there is a tolerance issue or something else going on. The capillary action wouldn't bypass the gasket unless there is something preventing a good seal.


----------



## KedarWolf

crefjouy said:


> Interesting to hear about the handling issues related to the 11s and 14W/mK 0.5mm thermal pads.
> 
> I know you are never allowed to ask this in 2021 but when do you think you will introduce active back plate cooling to the EVGA FTW3 series cards?


I asked about active backplates. They say because their XL backplates are so well made, thick and the thermal pad covers the entire back PCB, it may even perform better than say an EKWB backplate that only covers bits and pieces of the PCB like the double-sided memory etc.

I know peeps RAM temps are really good and being the full back PCB covered, it may even cool much better than only the memory and stuff the EKWB active backplate covers.


----------



## Optimus WC

Yes, interestingly a holistic approach to cooling has better overall gains. The power delivery on these cards is insanely hot, so cooling everything works better than targetted cooling. You'd be shocked how hot the PCB itself gets, especially around the power traces. 

The proof is our GPU block kills everything on benchmarks and performance. Having rear ram numbers low is all good, but if the pcb itself is about to melt, then it will throttle back. 

If/when we do an active backplate, it'll be insane  Won't be just for the RAM, but for everything.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, interestingly a holistic approach to cooling has better overall gains. The power delivery on these cards is insanely hot, so cooling everything works better than targetted cooling. You'd be shocked how hot the PCB itself gets, especially around the power traces.
> 
> The proof is our GPU block kills everything on benchmarks and performance. Having rear ram numbers low is all good, but if the pcb itself is about to melt, then it will throttle back.
> 
> If/when we do an active backplate, it'll be insane  Won't be just for the RAM, but for everything.


I've got enough room in my custom case to take a full sized water block backplate, so bring it on!


----------



## JustinThyme

KedarWolf said:


> I asked about active backplates. They say because their XL backplates are so well made, thick and the thermal pad covers the entire back PCB, it may even perform better than say an EKWB backplate that only covers bits and pieces of the PCB like the double-sided memory etc.
> 
> I know peeps RAM temps are really good and being the full back PCB covered, it may even cool much better than only the memory and stuff the EKWB active backplate covers.


While I see that there's already been a reply on how our stuff is better By Optimus......You only need to be touching the components cooled with and active backplate. IE memory and VRMS and backside off chip mount. Chokes and capacitors don't matter. Stating that it gets hot around the power traces yet not cooling them actually is a contradictory statement. If they get hot and you have them covered but no contact which you shouldn't with a metallic back plate then that's called insulating and is counter productive. Make them how you want but dont be up in here like everyone is an idiot. Leaving the components that are not being touched be is passive or active open is actually a better approach. Been there and done that with last gen when the back plates took forever. The OEM backplate touched nothing. It actually ran cooler without the back plate on Phanteks blocks that reused the OEM back plates as well as the OEM heat sinks. HeatKiller blocks in with proper backplates with contact at all VRMs, memory and backside of the DIE. They included pads for the chokes and caps if you want but thats a pointless venture.


----------



## Ashcroft

ninopecorino said:


> no, that's a copper sulphate solution. it's terrible on nickel.


Liquid utopia isn't copper sulphate, which is indeed bad for nickel finishes. 
There should be no reason not to use it in any block. It's just an anti-corrosive. Copper sulphate on the other hand is an anti biological that can increase corrosion.


----------



## Ashcroft

agentdark45 said:


> @Optimus WC I'm getting some leaking around the large gasket on my 3090 block - I assume it's due to capillary action (water seeping between the metal and plexi, not being stopped by the gasket). It was originally quite bad, however after dissembling the block and not tightening the screws on the plexi as much I thought the problem was solved...however the issue has returned over a few weeks.
> 
> How best to solve this?
> 
> Thanks


But, but, ... the super special cnc machines!


----------



## ninopecorino

Ashcroft said:


> Liquid utopia isn't copper sulphate, which is indeed bad for nickel finishes.
> There should be no reason not to use it in any block. It's just an anti-corrosive. Copper sulphate on the other hand is an anti biological that can increase corrosion.


I've heard that it contained copper sulphate on multiple occasions, but I can't find anything official. It stripped the nickel off of multiple components of mine, so I quit using it. I guess you can't believe everything you hear. I wonder why it stripped my nickel blocks.


----------



## Jon01010

Thought I'd post an order number update, #3608 from 2/12 was picked up yesterday by USPS with estimated deliver on Monday 3/29. 

So looks like just over 6 weeks order to delivery which was about inline with what I was expecting when I ordered which was end of March. I'm looking forward to getting it installed and updating my loop sometime next week.


----------



## Darb

Jon01010 said:


> Thought I'd post an order number update, #3608 from 2/12 was picked up yesterday by USPS with estimated deliver on Monday 3/29.
> 
> So looks like just over 6 weeks order to delivery which was about inline with what I was expecting when I ordered which was end of March. I'm looking forward to getting it installed and updating my loop sometime next week.


What did you order? I ordered a AMD block and Reservoir on January 28th order # 3422 and got a shipment notice yesterday.


----------



## Jon01010

Darb said:


> What did you order? I ordered a AMD block and Reservoir on January 28th order # 3422 and got a shipment notice yesterday.


Sorry forgot to mention, FTW3 block


----------



## Optimus WC

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, that's no good! Can you send pics of your system and block to our contact @ optimus email, and I can address it there and send it to the right guys. All the blocks get pressure tested before going out, though it's possible there is a tolerance issue or something else going on. The capillary action wouldn't bypass the gasket unless there is something preventing a good seal.


On further reflection of this, we believe the issue is potentially something else. The "leaks" are from humidity, not liquid escaping the fluid path. We noticed this internally, and did tests on it, it appears even when there is zero liquid and the blocks have been extensively cleaned. 

The vapor should disappear over time, likely when the copper heats up.

As for leaks after assembly, definitely not tightening the screws enough will cause it to leak. The screws must be tightened to the original tightness, or as far as they will go without using power tools or going absolutely gorilla with an allen key. Ideally, leak test the block again before installing to make sure all the screws are compressing the gasket correctly. We pressure test all blocks at 25 psi to make sure they are well beyond spec of a normal liquid system (of course, a loop should have no pressure). If a block holds 25 psi, it's not going to leak with coolant upon filling it up. The only way it would leak would be some longer term damage or stress of some kind. 

Of course, if there is an issue, we'll replace asap. But please try tightening the screws and testing pressure again.

Makes me think -- does anyone want a "tire stem" to g1/4 fitting for simple pressure testing?


----------



## Mxj1

Machining the appropriate threads into a g1/4 plug to accept any number of commercially available metal valve stems would be a good idea in my opinion. 

Then people would also be able to use better, more accurate (and cheaper) pumps than the ek/other guys.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Makes me think -- does anyone want a "tire stem" to g1/4 fitting for simple pressure testing?


I'd be interested in one for sure


----------



## Phroz3

Mxj1 said:


> Machining the appropriate threads into a g1/4 plug to accept any number of commercially available metal valve stems would be a good idea in my opinion.
> 
> Then people would also be able to use better, more accurate (and cheaper) pumps than the ek/other guys.


That would be great. I have the EK pressure tester and I have to pressure test it before I even halfway trust it because it leaks half the time.


----------



## agentdark45

Optimus WC said:


> On further reflection of this, we believe the issue is potentially something else. The "leaks" are from humidity, not liquid escaping the fluid path. We noticed this internally, and did tests on it, it appears even when there is zero liquid and the blocks have been extensively cleaned.
> 
> The vapor should disappear over time, likely when the copper heats up.
> 
> As for leaks after assembly, definitely not tightening the screws enough will cause it to leak. The screws must be tightened to the original tightness, or as far as they will go without using power tools or going absolutely gorilla with an allen key. Ideally, leak test the block again before installing to make sure all the screws are compressing the gasket correctly. We pressure test all blocks at 25 psi to make sure they are well beyond spec of a normal liquid system (of course, a loop should have no pressure). If a block holds 25 psi, it's not going to leak with coolant upon filling it up. The only way it would leak would be some longer term damage or stress of some kind.
> 
> Of course, if there is an issue, we'll replace asap. But please try tightening the screws and testing pressure again.
> 
> Makes me think -- does anyone want a "tire stem" to g1/4 fitting for simple pressure testing?


This makes sense. I did a teardown last night as I had to install another 3090 ftw3 in the rig (with an EK block...forgive me but I needed a water block asap) and have attached the pics. You can see the darker patches that appear to have found a path from certain points around the gasket. Interestingly, before this teardown there were more of these dark patches (when the screws were really cranked down). My original theory was that by cranking the screws I was compressing the gasket too much, nullifying the seal, allowing for capillary action to take over.

I always air pressure test each component, and the whole loop for at least a couple of hours (going well into the red zone using the EK air pump).

On another note, I have no idea why the gasket has discoloured this much. There is no growth or discolouration elsewhere in the loop (using distilled + mayhem biocide + inhibitor) and I've refilled the loop a good 6 or so times.


----------



## Phroz3

agentdark45 said:


> This makes sense. I did a teardown last night as I had to install another 3090 ftw3 in the rig (with an EK block...forgive me but I needed a water block asap) and have attached the pics. You can see the darker patches that appear to have found a path from certain points around the gasket. Interestingly, before this teardown there were more of these dark patches (when the screws were really cranked down). My original theory was that by cranking the screws I was compressing the gasket too much, nullifying the seal, allowing for capillary action to take over.
> 
> I always air pressure test each component, and the whole loop for at least a couple of hours (going well into the red zone using the EK air pump).
> 
> On another note, I have no idea why the gasket has discoloured this much. There is no growth or discolouration elsewhere in the loop (using distilled + mayhem biocide + inhibitor) and I've refilled the loop a good 6 or so times.


I wonder what the discoloration is as well. I prefer the black gasket like in Gamer's Nexus' video.


----------



## Mxj1

Phroz3 said:


> That would be great. I have the EK pressure tester and I have to pressure test it before I even halfway trust it because it leaks half the time.


I have one of these from a earlier on my career. Now I'm just a paper pusher.








Touring Suspension Air Pump | Harley-Davidson USA


Find Touring Suspension Air Pump at Harley-Davidson.com. Free shipping on orders $50+ and free returns.




www.harley-davidson.com





This one is pricey, but still works ~15 years later. There are some comparable pumps for around $25 that should also do the job.

I've always hated the multi-fitting leak testers. I've had to re tape my automotive leak down tester more than once because the parts get moved and bumped around.


----------



## Phroz3

Mxj1 said:


> I have one of these from a earlier on my career. Now I'm just a paper pusher.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Touring Suspension Air Pump | Harley-Davidson USA
> 
> 
> Find Touring Suspension Air Pump at Harley-Davidson.com. Free shipping on orders $50+ and free returns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.harley-davidson.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one is pricey, but still works ~15 years later. There are some comparable pumps for around $25 that should also do the job.
> 
> I've always hated the multi-fitting leak testers. I've had to re tape my automotive leak down tester more than once because the parts get moved and bumped around.


I had to fab my own leakdown tester for my yz465 two stroke haha.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> On further reflection of this, we believe the issue is potentially something else. The "leaks" are from humidity, not liquid escaping the fluid path. We noticed this internally, and did tests on it, it appears even when there is zero liquid and the blocks have been extensively cleaned.
> 
> The vapor should disappear over time, likely when the copper heats up.
> 
> As for leaks after assembly, definitely not tightening the screws enough will cause it to leak. The screws must be tightened to the original tightness, or as far as they will go without using power tools or going absolutely gorilla with an allen key. Ideally, leak test the block again before installing to make sure all the screws are compressing the gasket correctly. We pressure test all blocks at 25 psi to make sure they are well beyond spec of a normal liquid system (of course, a loop should have no pressure). If a block holds 25 psi, it's not going to leak with coolant upon filling it up. The only way it would leak would be some longer term damage or stress of some kind.
> 
> Of course, if there is an issue, we'll replace asap. But please try tightening the screws and testing pressure again.
> 
> *Makes me think -- does anyone want a "tire stem" to g1/4 fitting for simple pressure testing?*


Yes Please!


----------



## KedarWolf

JustinThyme said:


> While I see that there's already been a reply on how our stuff is better By Optimus......You only need to be touching the components cooled with and active backplate. IE memory and VRMS and backside off chip mount. Chokes and capacitors don't matter. Stating that it gets hot around the power traces yet not cooling them actually is a contradictory statement. If they get hot and you have them covered but no contact which you shouldn't with a metallic back plate then that's called insulating and is counter productive. Make them how you want but dont be up in here like everyone is an idiot. Leaving the components that are not being touched be is passive or active open is actually a better approach. Been there and done that with last gen when the back plates took forever. The OEM backplate touched nothing. It actually ran cooler without the back plate on Phanteks blocks that reused the OEM back plates as well as the OEM heat sinks. HeatKiller blocks in with proper backplates with contact at all VRMs, memory and backside of the DIE. They included pads for the chokes and caps if you want but thats a pointless venture.


Anything that has current running through it is going to heat up to some degree and the surrounding PCB will as well.

To me it only makes sense if you have thermal pads covering everything, it would draw any heat up to the thick backplate and as a result, cool better than if there was no thermal pad contact.

I'm not an Optimus fanboy by any means and as there is no Strix block as of yet, likely going with EKWB so to be ready when they release an active backplate for it, but I feel the Optimus approach is a sound one.


----------



## Phroz3

KedarWolf said:


> Anything that has current running through it is going to heat up to some degree and the surrounding PCB will as well.
> 
> To me it only makes sense if you have thermal pads covering everything, it would draw any heat up to the thick backplate and as a result, cool better than if there was no thermal pad contact.
> 
> I'm not an Optimus fanboy by any means and as there is no Strix block as of yet, likely going with EKWB so to be ready when they release an active backplate for it, but I feel the Optimus approach is a sound one.


These are the properties of thermodynamics. Heat always goes towards cold. That is why heat rises in our atmosphere. That is why heat pipe tech works for air coolers. The thermal pad is there to help that transfer not to blanket the PCB. To blanket it, would require a material with low thermal conductivity or no contact.


----------



## Optimus WC

GASKET COLOR: Chances are it's just the coolant stuck in there, due to the screws not being tightened. If it's not, try wiping down the gasket. It's white food grade EPDM, so it's really high quality. But if anyone wants a black gasket, just request, we got them.

BLOCK MOISTURE: Yes, those areas are the humidity/vapor I was mentioning. It looks like that. The way to know for sure is to take apart the block, dry the whole thing out, reassemble and pressure test. Chances are the vapor will appear again soonish or within a day, despite there being no liquid in the block. This assumes that you have some humidity in the air.

PRESSURE TESTER: No problem  What would be best? G1/4 plug to male Schrader stem, just like a tire? That'd be the easiest for your average air pump. We wouldn't be able to do it with the actual valve (super niche market, rather focus on more GPU block designs!), but if there is a good male-to-male valve that simply needs a female thread of some kind, we can do that.

Like this but with G1/4:


----------



## mouacyk

Phroz3 said:


> These are the properties of thermodynamics. Heat always goes towards cold. That is why heat rises in our atmosphere. That is why heat pipe tech works for air coolers. The thermal pad is there to help that transfer not to blanket the PCB. To blanket it, would require a material with low thermal conductivity or no contact.


Yeah, but cold can also get hot, and then have no where else to go (or go fast enough). Once passive backplate soaks up enough heat, it can't take on any more, leaving the block to do everything else. At this point, the components that are cooled mostly by the backplate will overheat. This is why even pointing a fan at the backplate, active or not, is still a good idea. Active is best.


----------



## Phroz3

mouacyk said:


> Yeah, but cold can also get hot, and then have no where else to go (or go fast enough). Once passive backplate soaks up enough heat, it can't take on any more, leaving the block to do everything else. At this point, the components that are cooled mostly by the backplate will overheat. This is why even pointing a fan at the backplate, active or not, is still a good idea. Active is best.


If the fans in your case are not cooling your backplate enough to allow the transfer of heat to the backplate then there are serious issues with your airflow/case design. I totally agree, a fan pointing at the backplate will help keep the backplate cold to aid in the transfer of heat.


----------



## Phroz3

Optimus WC said:


> GASKET COLOR: Chances are it's just the coolant stuck in there, due to the screws not being tightened. If it's not, try wiping down the gasket. It's white food grade EPDM, so it's really high quality. But if anyone wants a black gasket, just request, we got them.
> 
> BLOCK MOISTURE: Yes, those areas are the humidity/vapor I was mentioning. It looks like that. The way to know for sure is to take apart the block, dry the whole thing out, reassemble and pressure test. Chances are the vapor will appear again soonish or within a day, despite there being no liquid in the block. This assumes that you have some humidity in the air.
> 
> PRESSURE TESTER: No problem  What would be best? G1/4 plug to male Schrader stem, just like a tire? That'd be the easiest for your average air pump. We wouldn't be able to do it with the actual valve (super niche market, rather focus on more GPU block designs!), but if there is a good male-to-male valve that simply needs a female thread of some kind, we can do that.
> 
> Like this but with G1/4:
> 
> View attachment 2483952


Sounds good. I just sent a message via webform on the website in regards to a black gasket and the possibility of ordering a replacement backplate thermal pad.


----------



## Optimus WC

Here's an image of the back of the 3080 (not even 3090 with rear mem) from Igor's lab. Notice how much heat is under the VRMs. Second pic is the rear of a competing waterblock on the 3080ref (Corsair Hydro Series XG7 RGB water block for NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 and RTX 3090 reference design Review | Page 2 | igor´sLAB) with only 380w (yes, only). Cooling the chokes won't wick away that heat on the VRMs, because the power is delivered underneath them, not on top. You can see just how scorching it is from the power input to the VRMs.


----------



## mouacyk

Optimus WC said:


> Here's an image of the back of the 3080 (not even 3090 with rear mem) from Igor's lab. Notice how much heat is under the VRMs. Second pic is the rear of a competing waterblock on the 3080ref (Corsair Hydro Series XG7 RGB water block for NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 and RTX 3090 reference design Review | Page 2 | igor´sLAB) with only 380w (yes, only). Cooling the chokes won't wick away that heat on the VRMs, because the power is delivered underneath them, not on top. You can see just how scorching it is from the power input to the VRMs.
> 
> View attachment 2483953
> 
> 
> View attachment 2483954


I'm sure most enthusiasts on this forum understand by now that any meaningful thermal contact with the chokes are at best to dampen coil whine. What your block is doing well is that it has the best contact to the VRM mosfets, at 0.5mm, therefore wicking the VRM heat away faster than most blocks if not all of them. Now, add an active backplate and it's a done deal. All the other blocks can pack up.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah Schrader would be ideal, that way any bike pump can work


----------



## Phroz3

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah Schrader would be ideal, that way any bike pump can work


That and some sort of G 1/4 pressure gauge that would seal nicely.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

AM4 foundation block and 14mm hardline fittings back up for sale on optimus's site. Just bought the am4 block and enough fittings to never need any ever again.


----------



## JustinThyme

KedarWolf said:


> Anything that has current running through it is going to heat up to some degree and the surrounding PCB will as well.
> 
> To me it only makes sense if you have thermal pads covering everything, it would draw any heat up to the thick backplate and as a result, cool better than if there was no thermal pad contact.
> 
> I'm not an Optimus fanboy by any means and as there is no Strix block as of yet, likely going with EKWB so to be ready when they release an active backplate for it, but I feel the Optimus approach is a sound one.



There are no thermal pads on the traces from the power input to the VRMs. Yes the PCB gets warm at certain points. This is where PCB and component design that comes into play starts with the manufacturer. Covering the entire PCB and trying to make contact with a passive backplate with anyones design would not only be impossible but ineffective and in the end be an insulating blanket. The purpose of anyones backplate is to pull as much heat from the backside into the backplate to be dissipated as much as possible, otherwise the back plate becomes an insulator. That was my entire point. So the backside of the GPU, Memory chips and VRMS is about all you can pull heat out of. A good robust backplate helps tremendously. Unfortunatly no one has actually produced a true active back plate. Heat pipes do not an active backplate make. Water actually flowing through it in at least one pass in the hot spots would make a world of difference. On the Strix cards from 2080Ti backplates the stock backplates make zero contact and actually increase heat retention. Better off with no back plates that to have a "cover" that has RGB and thats about it.

Optimus blcoks (the ones Ive tested) are a little different in aesthetics but the cooling principles are the same. I ran head to head tests with both of their CPU blocks for intel against both versions of the EK magnitude. In the the end I got similar results from all of them tested as they come out of the box all using Kryonaut TIM, thin application. In all the blocks less is more. You want just enough to cover the die section of the IHS and nothing more. Too little resulted in better performance than too much. Normally it doesnt hurt to get a little crazy with the TIM but on these 4 blocks it made a 5C difference between just enough for a thin spread over the die area and enough to cover the entire IHS to the edges with a little oozing over. Getting the mount just right with all of them was not an easy task either. Took multiple attempts but once I had it figured out it was easy after to change from one to the next. You can read about it early on in this thread and in the magnitude thread. I dont call any of them king of the hill. They are competitive with the other top blocks. The one thing with the magnitude is the cost but its also more customizable where the optimus blocks you get what you get. On the Sig V2 input is on the left, only way to change that is flipping it upside down. The magnitude is easily changed and multiple thickness of jet plates and cold plates allow for a better fit even among the same chip. None are exactly the same. I miss the old days where everything was direct die and FLAT!!

End the end I wont be trying to kill myself to get cards I dont need and waterblocks for them. Ill cross that bridge probably in the 40XX time frame. For now what I have blast through everything I throw at it. (at least what I use as I dont crunch primes so no AVX 512 workloads). Everything else, bring it on. Rig is in sig.


----------



## crefjouy

Can any one confirm recent order to ship times for an FTW3 block? I am just about to pull the trigger on a competitor but thought I should at least ask what the leads are like here.


----------



## Phroz3

crefjouy said:


> Can any one confirm recent order to ship times for an FTW3 block? I am just about to pull the trigger on a competitor but thought I should at least ask what the leads are like here.


Took 5 weeks for me to get mine. Jan 29th order.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Edge0fsanity said:


> AM4 foundation block and 14mm hardline fittings back up for sale on optimus's site. Just bought the am4 block and enough fittings to never need any ever again.


Dang, wish they made some in gold color.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> GASKET COLOR: Chances are it's just the coolant stuck in there, due to the screws not being tightened. If it's not, try wiping down the gasket. It's white food grade EPDM, so it's really high quality. But if anyone wants a black gasket, just request, we got them.
> 
> BLOCK MOISTURE: Yes, those areas are the humidity/vapor I was mentioning. It looks like that. The way to know for sure is to take apart the block, dry the whole thing out, reassemble and pressure test. Chances are the vapor will appear again soonish or within a day, despite there being no liquid in the block. This assumes that you have some humidity in the air.
> 
> PRESSURE TESTER: No problem  What would be best? G1/4 plug to male Schrader stem, just like a tire? That'd be the easiest for your average air pump. We wouldn't be able to do it with the actual valve (super niche market, rather focus on more GPU block designs!), but if there is a good male-to-male valve that simply needs a female thread of some kind, we can do that.
> 
> Like this but with G1/4:
> 
> View attachment 2483952


That would be the best for a pressure tester for sure


----------



## Mxj1

So... Home depot has these:








Everbilt 1/8 in. MIP Brass Valve Fitting 804519 - The Home Depot


This 1/8 in tank valve can be used for air compressors, air tanks, pressure tests and more. It is made of solid brass with nickel plating for corrosion resistance. The tank valve is compatible with items



www.homedepot.com





Use one of your stainless plugs, and drill/tap for the 1/8 fitting. Use a permanent thread sealant and you're good to go.


----------



## Sap

Optimus WC said:


> GASKET COLOR: Chances are it's just the coolant stuck in there, due to the screws not being tightened. If it's not, try wiping down the gasket. It's white food grade EPDM, so it's really high quality. But if anyone wants a black gasket, just request, we got them.
> 
> BLOCK MOISTURE: Yes, those areas are the humidity/vapor I was mentioning. It looks like that. The way to know for sure is to take apart the block, dry the whole thing out, reassemble and pressure test. Chances are the vapor will appear again soonish or within a day, despite there being no liquid in the block. This assumes that you have some humidity in the air.
> 
> PRESSURE TESTER: No problem  What would be best? G1/4 plug to male Schrader stem, just like a tire? That'd be the easiest for your average air pump. We wouldn't be able to do it with th noe actual valve (super niche market, rather focus on more GPU block designs!), but if there is a good male-to-male valve that simply needs a female thread of some kind, we can do that.
> 
> Like this but with G1/4:
> 
> View attachment 2483952


Hello! Can I have a second gasket with my block please? I am in france so it won't be easy to get another one after years of using my block...
My order is OP3786


----------



## Section31

Got to say interesting results.

At Idle with the following loop info:


http://imgur.com/BOvfIk6


GPU is less than waterloop temps:

After playing some cyberpunk 2077:


http://imgur.com/X7TNhZX




http://imgur.com/Nh3fKD9


----------



## jura11

@Section31 

What BIOS are you running? 267W is nothing hahaha 

Try KPE XOC BIOS with 65-75% power limit capped and post screenshot of temperatures 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Section31

jura11 said:


> @Section31
> 
> What BIOS are you running? 267W is nothing hahaha
> 
> Try KPE XOC BIOS with 65-75% power limit capped and post screenshot of temperatures
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Stock bios no overclock. Too many horror stories on xoc bios i ain’t trying yet. Waiting for evga official word before trying that.

Also still in process of fine tuning everything and have more internal radiators before i try. So will try again in summer


----------



## JustinThyme

jura11 said:


> @Section31
> 
> What BIOS are you running? 267W is nothing hahaha
> 
> Try KPE XOC BIOS with 65-75% power limit capped and post screenshot of temperatures
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Yeah I was thinking the same thing, must be running 420P
Here is my power draw running a pass of luxmark. 2x GPUS but that's still better than 500 watts each












Looping TS extreme for 30 mins, note GPU Delta of 9C...thats about as good as it gets and it not Optimus blocks. 2X Heat Killer Strix O11G OC


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah I was thinking the same thing, must be running 420P
> Here is my power draw running a pass of luxmark. 2x GPUS but that's still better than 500 watts each
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484166
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looping TS extreme for 30 mins, note GPU Delta of 9C...thats about as good as it gets and it not Optimus blocks. 2X Heat Killer Strix O11G OC
> 
> View attachment 2484169


I am cheap on benchmark software too. Using free stuff.

I rarely overclock my gpu, often times i do some oc stability test then just forget to turn it back on again. I guess that’s because i rarely play games for like last 4years. I enjoy the building part more than anything else.


----------



## Section31

jura11 said:


> @Section31
> 
> What BIOS are you running? 267W is nothing hahaha
> 
> Try KPE XOC BIOS with 65-75% power limit capped and post screenshot of temperatures
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Thanks though i also got to test out soon if my card needs that special rma evga offering atm for cards that can’t hit 500watts.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I am cheap on benchmark software too. Using free stuff.
> 
> I rarely overclock my gpu, often times i do some oc stability test then just forget to turn it back on again. I guess that’s because i rarely play games for like last 4years. I enjoy the building part more than anything else.


I also enjoy building but also the performance aspect. Luxmark is free and loads your GPU/s with an OpenCL workload. If you are an Intel insider you can also get open CL drivers for the CPU and test that too! I’ve not run AMD since the launch of the Sledgehammer that left me with a power hungry rig with two dual core CPUs on one board making quad core before there was quad core. It rocked for about 3 months, ram hot as hell then Intel introduced the first quad core CPU kicking AMD in the nuts big time. It’s a back and forth game between them. Top dogs coming up is intels new chips already being deployed in data centers with a Xeon label and possibly a TRX refresh aka same crap Intel has been doing with X299 and everyone cried about that. The AMD TRX is still rumored but the Intel is already being deployed. Big question is will it see the consumer market. I’m holding out for PCIE5 and DDR5 and a bit past the first release. I’ll do builds for brats who have parents with more money than sense but for my own rig I’m good for awhile.


----------



## greaf

Anyone know if the Optimus intel foundation block can be used on a direct die 9900k on a z390 aorus master?

And what about a direct die 10900k on an asus z490 extreme?


----------



## JustinThyme

Haven’t tried it but don’t see any reason they would be diffferent from any other block. The challenge always has been how far the die clears the mount.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I also enjoy building but also the performance aspect. Luxmark is free and loads your GPU/s with an OpenCL workload. If you are an Intel insider you can also get open CL drivers for the CPU and test that too! I’ve not run AMD since the launch of the Sledgehammer that left me with a power hungry rig with two dual core CPUs on one board making quad core before there was quad core. It rocked for about 3 months, ram hot as hell then Intel introduced the first quad core CPU kicking AMD in the nuts big time. It’s a back and forth game between them. Top dogs coming up is intels new chips already being deployed in data centers with a Xeon label and possibly a TRX refresh aka same crap Intel has been doing with X299 and everyone cried about that. The AMD TRX is still rumored but the Intel is already being deployed. Big question is will it see the consumer market. I’m holding out for PCIE5 and DDR5 and a bit past the first release. I’ll do builds for brats who have parents with more money than sense but for my own rig I’m good for awhile.


Same here. Starting to plan out 2023/2024 Build involving next gen stuff but requires minimal investment in new watercooling gear. Trying to fine tune this water setup for multiple builds.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Thanks though i also got to test out soon if my card needs that special rma evga offering atm for cards that can’t hit 500watts.


I know you were saying that you wanted to wait to install the XOC BIOS until after you install the waterblock but honestly, I would put the XOC BIOS on now and test out your power limits. That way if you need to send the card back to EVGA you do not have to tear it down and source new thermal pads and thermal putty. It doesn't need to be a full benchmark. Just long enough to see how much power you are drawing. Just make sure to grab a screenshot of it to show EVGA.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> I know you were saying that you wanted to wait to install the XOC BIOS until after you install the waterblock but honestly, I would put the XOC BIOS on now and test out your power limits. That way if you need to send the card back to EVGA you do not have to tear it down and source new thermal pads and thermal putty. It doesn't need to be a full benchmark. Just long enough to see how much power you are drawing. Just make sure to grab a screenshot of it to show EVGA.


I just did. I got 400watts max on port royal. Seems like some odd power limit thing still. Thermals pads and putty got destroyed in removal. Cleaning pcb was time consuming too.

Though i am not sure if i will actually use 500watts in the end. Even at 400ish watts, i am happy with the temperature.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> I just did. I got 400watts max on port royal. Seems like some odd power limit thing still. Thermals pads and putty got destroyed in removal. Cleaning pcb was time consuming too.
> 
> Though i am not sure if i will actually use 500watts in the end. Even at 400ish watts, i am happy with the temperature.


Did you check your PCIe wattage? If it was above 75 that is out of spec for the slot. That is something that is supposed to be fixed in this new revision. They swapped out the VRM controller for an analog/digital unit instead of a full analog unit.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> Did you check your PCIe wattage? If it was above 75 that is out of spec for the slot. That is something that is supposed to be fixed in this new revision. They swapped out the VRM controller for an analog/digital unit instead of a full analog unit.


Mine is running out of spec slightly. 78watts


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Mine is running out of spec slightly. 78watts


I would replace just for that. It isn't good for the mobo and it is holding your card back.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> I would replace just for that. It isn't good for the mobo and it is holding your card back.


And i need to get replacement thermal pads too lol


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> I would replace just for that. It isn't good for the mobo and it is holding your card back.


Any place where i can get replacement ones or should i just buy another set of Optimus thermal pads.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Any place where i can get replacement ones or should i just buy another set of Optimus thermal pads.


I think these are the same or similar as the ones that ship with the block. I know that optimus uses 6 W/mk fujipoly. They are sold by Tyler Direct so I trust it. That is Primochill.



Amazon.com




Amazon.com



I bought some of these to have on hand for the front side of my card. Sold by Tyler Direct as well.



Amazon.com




https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSJQDYA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



But I hear the 17 W/mk are brittle and hard to work with.

I did reach out to Optimus about ordering replacement backplate thermal pad. Hoping I can order that from them because it would be too hard to source that size and I am sure they get it at a much better price than we can.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Any place where i can get replacement ones or should i just buy another set of Optimus thermal pads.


Also, for bringing the card back to stock, you can use the following to replace the putty


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UTX7K2E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



EVGA does have replacement pads available. I asked about them and they sent me a pack for free. I was actually able to reuse all but one of the original pads somehow. Made the one I needed out some of the leftovers from the piece I cut out of the Optimus backplate thermal pad  So now I have a spare set of originals in case I ever need to send it to EVGA.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> Also, for bringing the card back to stock, you can use the following to replace the putty
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UTX7K2E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA does have replacement pads available. I asked about them and they sent me a pack for free. I was actually able to reuse all but one of the original pads somehow. Made the one I needed out some of the leftovers from the piece I cut out of the Optimus backplate thermal pad  So now I have a spare set of originals in case I ever need to send it to EVGA.


Aren’t you required to send the original card back to evga? I assume its an advanced replacement.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> I think these are the same or similar as the ones that ship with the block. I know that optimus uses 6 W/mk fujipoly. They are sold by Tyler Direct so I trust it. That is Primochill.
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> I bought some of these to have on hand for the front side of my card. Sold by Tyler Direct as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSJQDYA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> But I hear the 17 W/mk are brittle and hard to work with.
> 
> I did reach out to Optimus about ordering replacement backplate thermal pad. Hoping I can order that from them because it would be too hard to source that size and I am sure they get it at a much better price than we can.


Tell me how it goes since i need one also at this rate


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Aren’t you required to send the original card back to evga? I assume its an advanced replacement.


They do not do advanced RMA in this program. You are required to send your old card first.


----------



## Section31

Thanks.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Thanks.


You're welcome. The email address to get it started is 
[email protected]


----------



## Lobstar

Phroz3 said:


> You're welcome. The email address to get it started is
> [email protected]


For anyone wondering about this program: The card I got in return is SOOOO much better. I could barely average 1965mhz and was getting horrible results in games and benchmarks. The new card runs much better, handles the KPE 520w bios perfectly, and sits perfectly at 75w PCIe draw @ 530w giving clocks averaging 2100mhz. I can't wait for this damn waterblock to arrive. I'm still counting how many '2 weeks' I have to go before I get it. Now entering my 3rd '2 weeks' and it still hasn't shipped ...


----------



## Phroz3

Lobstar said:


> For anyone wondering about this program: The card I got in return is SOOOO much better. I could barely average 1965mhz and was getting horrible results in games and benchmarks. The new card runs much better, handles the KPE 520w bios perfectly, and sits perfectly at 75w PCIe draw @ 530w giving clocks averaging 2100mhz. I can't wait for this damn waterblock to arrive. I'm still counting how many '2 weeks' I have to go before I get it. Now entering my 3rd '2 weeks' and it still hasn't shipped ...


I can't wait! My replacement program card will be here Wednesday. I am nervous to install the KP 520W BIOS but think I am going to do it anyway once the Optimus block is installed.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Same here. Starting to plan out 2023/2024 Build involving next gen stuff but requires minimal investment in new watercooling gear. Trying to fine tune this water setup for multiple builds.


Yeah I have WC parts Ive been using for quite some time. Get good stuff first time around and it lasts forever. Clean the crap out of the parts while you have it torn down and good to go. Only PITA is new blocks and new tubing to redo the runs but tubing is cheap. Its the freaking fittings that's like a kick in the bawlz! Probably $500 in fittings in my rig but this is like the 4th or 5th build Ive done with the same Bitspower black fittings. I reuse serial pump heads but generally replace the pumps with new ones just for principal and clean the heads and new orings. Depends on how long its been since the last time they were replaced. What I have now all the pumps are less than 2 years old so they are good for another 3. I replace them at 5 years, running or not. so next one will definitely need new pumps. as its going to be a few years yet. I totally bypassed this round of GPUs just because the pair of 2080Tis I have take everything I throw at them and on last round of X299 chips, 10980XE and I waited a year after those were released until I could get one actually below MSRP. They were phantoms for the longest time. Only fleabay scalpers for double the MSRP making it the same as a 9980XE. I ran a 7900X that was a good binned and delidded chip that I got 5GHz out of but barely, too damn hot!! On that series the 7900X and the 7920X had what was referred to as a LCC or low core count die. Then the 99XX all were HCC (high core count dies. That 7900X heat couldnt be tamed. It wasnt the loop. Temp never got above 29C. It was getting the heat off the die and into the loop to be dissipated. Then I went to a 9940X I got a good deal on when they first came out and patiently waited until I raped Microcenter. They had a special on the 10980XE for $810 and I had $200 in loyalty rewards and store credits so I snagged one for $610. It runs well, Best OC to date is 5.1 all 18 cores but it gets into the 90s. I can run it at 4.8 and stay in the low 80s max core or better yet 4.7 all cores and stay in the mid 70s which is pretty much where I stay most of the time. I never tried 4.9 to see what that takes. I know I can do 4.7 and 1.185Vcore and 4.8 takes 1.235. 5.0 takes 1.34 amd 5.1 takes 1.36. The 4.8 isnt horrendous but got to looking and while I did lose a little bit in performance the difference wasnt all that much in synthetic benchmarks. 

Either way Im waiting. Dont know whether it will be AMD or Intel. Will find that out when the day comes. Latest upcoming Intel looks more promising and upcoming AMD looks like they are going to be pulling the same crap Intel has been for the last few gens, refreshes that are supposed to be more efficient with slightly higher clocks. Only time will tell. They tend to keep their cards close to the chest until the day of launch. Just a lot of smack talking with the usual buzz feeds that most of the time ends up being BS.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I just did. I got 400watts max on port royal. Seems like some odd power limit thing still. Thermals pads and putty got destroyed in removal. Cleaning pcb was time consuming too.
> 
> Though i am not sure if i will actually use 500watts in the end. Even at 400ish watts, i am happy with the temperature.


What did you get in Port Royal? Below is my crappy score. I ran the XOC BIOS on my 2080Ti Strix cards with no power limit. In the end it wasnt about the power limit or the heat, it was about the limitations of the chips. They got like 15MHz more with XOC BIOS than the stock BIOS and every now and then gave me the blind mans bird.......AKA Black screen. So I just flashed it back and settle for 2160 on the stock VBIOS. I also noted that just raising the power limit to 125% was plenty and hitting the memory ( both cards have samsung) to +900 and left the voltage at no increase, slider at 0. This is the best set up, I up the voltage and its still not the heat but it will hit the power limit faster and throttle leaving me 15Mhz or 30Mhz lower on the clocks.










Result not found







www.3dmark.com


----------



## JustinThyme

Phroz3 said:


> I think these are the same or similar as the ones that ship with the block. I know that optimus uses 6 W/mk fujipoly. They are sold by Tyler Direct so I trust it. That is Primochill.
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> I bought some of these to have on hand for the front side of my card. Sold by Tyler Direct as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSJQDYA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> But I hear the 17 W/mk are brittle and hard to work with.
> 
> I did reach out to Optimus about ordering replacement backplate thermal pad. Hoping I can order that from them because it would be too hard to source that size and I am sure they get it at a much better price than we can.


Fuji Poly....Dont leave home without it! I generally use it on everything that requires thermal pads. One little tid bit of info and maybe Im just crazy but I swear adding just a dab it TIM on both sides of the pads makes them perform better. Im not talking about a blob, just enough to make it wet. Yeah they dont stick for crap but the tension of being wet will hold the.... after that the assembly can be a PITA keeping the pads from moving but I swear it works better.


----------



## dwolvin

Probably better just because it doesn't shift during assembly...


----------



## Jon01010

crefjouy said:


> Can any one confirm recent order to ship times for an FTW3 block? I am just about to pull the trigger on a competitor but thought I should at least ask what the leads are like here.


 Mine was 6 weeks to the door from the Feb 12th order


----------



## Shawnb99

greaf said:


> Anyone know if the Optimus intel foundation block can be used on a direct die 9900k on a z390 aorus master?
> 
> And what about a direct die 10900k on an asus z490 extreme?


Don't see why not. I had no issues using the Rockitcool mount and direct die with my z390 Apex or Dark.



crefjouy said:


> Can any one confirm recent order to ship times for an FTW3 block? I am just about to pull the trigger on a competitor but thought I should at least ask what the leads are like here.


Be aware most of the wait times was due to designing the block and other issues. The lead time on all blocks should hopefully improve now


----------



## onMute

@Optimus WC KPE Update?


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Be aware most of the wait times was due to designing the block and other issues. The lead time on all blocks should hopefully improve now


I dont think design is part of the FTW at this point unless they are planning a revised edition. From what Ive seen everyone who has their block is happy with it.
Initially everyone is delayed but sometime for no reason. I know most of the big name vendors either get samples or cad drawings prior to release and have to sign an NDA so they can have their products ready but even then it doesnt always work, especially with custom PCBs. FE, yeah everyone has those quick. I know on my 2080Ti Strix cards it was forever and a day before anyone had them but once EK and Watercool cranked up the CNCs making them they were easy to get with next to no wait time. Only lesson I learned is when ordering direct from watercool and it says available that doesnt mean its on the shelf, it means a production run is scheduled. I contacted them to see what the deal is and they made it clear they are not distributers and dont just keep items on the shelf. When they get orders from retailers they put them in a production run. You order direct they just add you to the next production run. If your order was a few days before the run you get it quick, if it was just after they just completed a run you will be waiting a few weeks.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I dont think design is part of the FTW at this point unless they are planning a revised edition. From what Ive seen everyone who has their block is happy with it.
> Initially everyone is delayed but sometime for no reason. I know most of the big name vendors either get samples or cad drawings prior to release and have to sign an NDA so they can have their products ready but even then it doesnt always work, especially with custom PCBs. FE, yeah everyone has those quick. I know on my 2080Ti Strix cards it was forever and a day before anyone had them but once EK and Watercool cranked up the CNCs making them they were easy to get with next to no wait time. Only lesson I learned is when ordering direct from watercool and it says available that doesnt mean its on the shelf, it means a production run is scheduled. I contacted them to see what the deal is and they made it clear they are not distributers and dont just keep items on the shelf. When they get orders from retailers they put them in a production run. You order direct they just add you to the next production run. If your order was a few days before the run you get it quick, if it was just after they just completed a run you will be waiting a few weeks.


Same with aquacomputer. For canadian still better than dazmode at times (faster) and cheaper than getting from states


----------



## KedarWolf

Section31 said:


> Same with aquacomputer. For canadian still better than dazmode at times (faster) and cheaper than getting from states


I'm in Canada and like Performance PCs from the USA. Good prices and they ship FedEx to Canada.

I ordered my EKWB waterblock and backplate Sunday, they shipped it today and tracking says I'll get it tomorrow.

Free shipping and I paid only $2.99 extra for rush shipping. 

Edit: I have an ASUS ROG Strix OC 3090 and no Optimus for me. 

Went EKWB because they will have an active backplate soon I'm sure.


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> I'm in Canada and like Performance PCs from the USA. Good prices and they ship FedEx to Canada.
> 
> I ordered my EKWB waterblock and backplate Sunday, they shipped it today and tracking says I'll get it tomorrow.
> 
> Free shipping and I paid only $2.99 extra for rush shipping.
> 
> Edit: I have an ASUS ROG Strix OC 3090 and no Optimus for me.
> 
> Went EKWB because they will have an active backplate soon I'm sure.


Each brand different. Ekwb usa price is fair. Doesn’t make much sense for heatkiller and aquacomputer


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, answering questions:

-Thermal pad replacements: Right now, Fuji is taking long to get us pads, so we're making sure we have pads in stock for new blocks without offering replacements for sale. Fujis are made in, of course, Japan, then get shipped over here. the 3mm backplate is an unusual size and I think we used up all the US stock 

-Bare die: yup, go for it. All optimus blocks are designed with bare die in mind (like the pc gods intended). 

-STRIX: Working on it! Really don't want to get stuck in another situation like FTW3 launch. Block is designed, we're upgrading machines (it does take weeks and weeks) so we can keep up production with the tolerances we keep.

-KINGPIN: Yup, it's coming, though not asap. It will hopefully be within a month after Strix, not 6 months.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Same with aquacomputer. For canadian still better than dazmode at times (faster) and cheaper than getting from states


Yeah you cannucks get nailed on import but it goes both ways crossing that border between the US and Canada. One big lesson......NEVER USE UPS!!! The damn brokerage fee is more than the import tax. Any method but UPS!! USPS may take a little longer and I can only speak for inbound from Canada to US but last order from Dazemod was just what it said. No taxes and no tarrifs shipped by the postal service. Half the time the expeditied UPS gets hung up in customs and you wait for UPS to charge you more than the item you bought for brokerage fees before they release it several days later.


----------



## HyperMatrix

JustinThyme said:


> The damn brokerage fee is more than the import tax. Any method but UPS!!


To be fair, this only applies to UPS Ground shipments. FedEx Ground shipments also have a very high brokerage fee which is close to but not as high as UPS. If you ship with air, FedEx/UPS both charge something like $12.50-$15.00 CAD + sales tax. That having been said...UPS is total garbage and fails to deliver when promised. FedEx on the other hand is an absolute beauty. If you do ship with USPS, expect 2-3 weeks for delivery, but also expect to have a 90% chance to not pay any duties or even sales tax.


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, answering questions:
> 
> -Thermal pad replacements: Right now, Fuji is taking long to get us pads, so we're making sure we have pads in stock for new blocks without offering replacements for sale. Fujis are made in, of course, Japan, then get shipped over here. the 3mm backplate is an unusual size and I think we used up all the US stock
> 
> -Bare die: yup, go for it. All optimus blocks are designed with bare die in mind (like the pc gods intended).
> 
> -STRIX: Working on it! Really don't want to get stuck in another situation like FTW3 launch. Block is designed, we're upgrading machines (it does take weeks and weeks) so we can keep up production with the tolerances we keep.
> 
> -KINGPIN: Yup, it's coming, though not asap. It will hopefully be within a month after Strix, not 6 months.


Ill check back when the 40XX get released. If you beat Watercool to the punch and are still producing Ill buy your blocks. It will most likely be Strix 4090 0r what ever top dog it is and two of them.

BTW, what happened to the Flat SigV2 Blem tops that you had "plenty of laying around". I posted, messaged here and emailed putting my mailing info in the message and email and didn't get a response. I wanted to try that before putting the magnitude with the flat cold plate back in. The one I have works better with the inner oring pulled reducing the bow on a 10980XE. Foundation works about the same as the SigV2 with the Oring pulled because it has some give but ATM the Magnitude with the flat cold plate is working better. Im about to tear into the machine to do some changes adding a MORA 420. It could be accolades for you or oh well had to go with magnitude, your choice. Its going to be a couple of weeks before I get to it so if I get an answer Ill wait in the top, if not then the Magnitude is going in and Ill be running an optimus free rig


----------



## KedarWolf

HyperMatrix said:


> To be fair, this only applies to UPS Ground shipments. FedEx Ground shipments also have a very high brokerage fee which is close to but not as high as UPS. If you ship with air, FedEx/UPS both charge something like $12.50-$15.00 CAD + sales tax. That having been said...UPS is total garbage and fails to deliver when promised. FedEx on the other hand is an absolute beauty. If you do ship with USPS, expect 2-3 weeks for delivery, but also expect to have a 90% chance to not pay any duties or even sales tax.


On my FedEx shipment from Performance PCs, I should have paid almost $50 in taxes on import alone, let alone any fees or duty. This according to my bank USD to CAD calculator and 13% tax here in Ontario.

I paid a bit over $26.

Edit: That's less than the almost $50 in tax if I bought the stuff locally.


----------



## Shawnb99

KedarWolf said:


> On my FedEx shipment from Performance PCs, I should have paid almost $50 in taxes on import alone, let alone any fees or duty. This according to my bank USD to CAD calculator and 13% tax here in Ontario.
> 
> I paid a bit over $26.
> 
> Edit: That's less than the almost $50 in tax if I bought the stuff locally.


Fedex has been known to deliver packages with no fees and then send a bill after the fact. They have done that multiple times to me. No notice that you owe anything till you get a bill months later when a short window to pay before they send it to collections and they will over miniscule amounts.


----------



## criskoe

Shawnb99 said:


> Fedex has been known to deliver packages with no fees and then send a bill after the fact. They have done that multiple times to me. No notice that you owe anything till you get a bill months later when a short window to pay before they send it to collections and they will over miniscule amounts.


^This^

i once got a invoice a month later. Called in and paid it via phone. Only to find out a month later after a collection warning saying it still wasn’t paid. After over an hour on the phone with fed ex. It was finally discovered that the phone agent applied my payment to some other shipment across Canada. Lmao. 

shipments via fed ex have always been on time and very fast. But the back end duty stuff has always been wonky.


----------



## sultanofswing

Have 2 Kingpins here that desperately could use some Optimus love, Gonna be a tough wait.


----------



## Shawnb99

sultanofswing said:


> Have 2 Kingpins here that desperately could use some Optimus love, Gonna be a tough wait.


How did you manage to get two?


----------



## Biggu

So Ive decided to just skip going 11900k or 10900k and no longer going to use my Optimus Signature block if anyone is still waiting on theirs.


----------



## sultanofswing

Shawnb99 said:


> How did you manage to get two?


Had my roommate sign up for one and myself.


----------



## Shawnb99

sultanofswing said:


> Had my roommate sign up for one and myself.


Ah nice! Enjoy


----------



## Darb

Received my 8.5" reservoir and AMD block last Friday (#OP 3422). Truly impressed by the quality and design. Inspected both items and they are absolutely flawless! Well done Optimus! Cannot wait to use them in my next build. Just waiting for the endangered species GPU.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> Did you check your PCIe wattage? If it was above 75 that is out of spec for the slot. That is something that is supposed to be fixed in this new revision. They swapped out the VRM controller for an analog/digital unit instead of a full analog unit.


I also might trade my 3090ftw3 + block for 3090strix plus cash (to rebuy an optimus strix block).


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> I also might trade my 3090ftw3 + block for 3090strix plus cash (to rebuy an optimus strix block).


That would be a tough trade to make happen. The strix is known to be the better card.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> That would be a tough trade to make happen. The strix is known to be the better card.


My source is more of a miner so he wants evga warranty


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> My source is more of a miner so he wants evga warranty


That is a win win if you already have someone willing to trade. The optimus block will keep his ram temps under control while mining.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> That is a win win if you already have someone willing to trade. The optimus block will keep his ram temps under control while mining.


Yup see if that deals comes through. If not well rma. Going to be impossible to get replacement thermal pads for backplate


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Yup see if that deals comes through. If not well rma. Going to be impossible to get replacement thermal pads for backplate


I will be reusing the backplate thermal pad this time (no choice really). I was able to keep it in one piece during the removal.


----------



## Lobstar

Phroz3 said:


> That would be a tough trade to make happen. The strix is known to be the better card.


If that FTW3 can be swapped under the program for the new revision of cards I'd keep it. My swapped card is freaking amazing with this latest bios.


----------



## Phroz3

Lobstar said:


> If that FTW3 can be swapped under the program for the new revision of cards I'd keep it. My swapped card is freaking amazing with this latest bios.


My program card is only pulling 455 watts on air. What are you running for an overclock? Custom voltage curve? I'll get my optimus block on it either tonight or tomorrow.


----------



## Lobstar

Phroz3 said:


> My program card is only pulling 455 watts on air. What are you running for an overclock? Custom voltage curve? I'll get my optimus block on it either tonight or tomorrow.


Mine pulls 530w (75w max on pcie) on the KPE 520w bios. I'm just ham-fisting my voltage at 1.1v with 2220 locked on the curve in Afterburner. +1500 memory. I'll tweak it more once the block arrives.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> If that FTW3 can be swapped under the program for the new revision of cards I'd keep it. My swapped card is freaking amazing with this latest bios.


It's an proposed deal so it may fall apart. I have my options covered. That or I go continue through with my RMA, I already have put in request with EVGA.


----------



## Phroz3

Lobstar said:


> Mine pulls 530w (75w max on pcie) on the KPE 520w bios. I'm just ham-fisting my voltage at 1.1v with 2220 locked on the curve in Afterburner. +1500 memory. I'll tweak it more once the block arrives.


Are you running the REBAR version of the KP 520w BIOS? If so do you have the link to techpowerup for that one? I'm sure it's buried in the evga thread somewhere but it'd be hard to find lol.


----------



## Lobstar

Phroz3 said:


> Are you running the REBAR version of the KP 520w BIOS? If so do you have the link to techpowerup for that one? I'm sure it's buried in the evga thread somewhere but it'd be hard to find lol.


It is the ReBar version. EVGA RTX 3090 VBIOS


----------



## Phroz3

Lobstar said:


> It is the ReBar version. EVGA RTX 3090 VBIOS


Thanks. I will give it a try this weekend.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> It is the ReBar version. EVGA RTX 3090 VBIOS


Did you get Rebar working. It's saying my bios is not updated but I am using latest bios from Asus X570 Hero Dark (3401) with ReBar Support.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> Did you get Rebar working. It's saying my bios is not updated but I am using latest bios from Asus X570 Hero Dark (3401) with ReBar Support.


If you haven't already, you'll need to go into BIOS and enable it. You'll need to disable CSM before it will let you enable it if it's anything like my ASROCK x570 taichi


----------



## Lobstar

Section31 said:


> Did you get Rebar working. It's saying my bios is not updated but I am using latest bios from Asus X570 Hero Dark (3401) with ReBar Support.


I don't know of any way to test it but GPU-z shows it as enabled, it's turned on in my C8H bios, and Precision X1 shows green check marks next to every item in the list. I can only assume it's working with all the positive feedback from software. If the C8H is like the dark hero then in the bios in the top right hand corner where it shows the resizable bar options click that with your mouse and then click 'enable'. I have my 5950x and Dark Hero sitting on the shelf behind me waiting for this god damned block to arrive for my graphics card otherwise I would verify it for you.


----------



## JustinThyme

Phroz3 said:


> That would be a tough trade to make happen. The strix is known to be the better card.



+1 on that. I tried FTW once and went right back where I came from. Strix OC edition. Add to that the retail MSRP on the Strix OC Vs the FTW is about the same spread as adding the water block in with the card so you would probably end up finding yourself in the other seat. You would be lucky to find anyone wanting to trade straight up water block included, it would probably take some cash on your end. Your best bet would be to find a buyer for what you have and buy a Strix.


----------



## Phroz3

JustinThyme said:


> +1 on that. I tried FTW once and went right back where I came from. Strix OC edition. Add to that the retail MSRP on the Strix OC Vs the FTW is about the same spread as adding the water block in with the card so you would probably end up finding yourself in the other seat. You would be lucky to find anyone wanting to trade straight up water block included, it would probably take some cash on your end. Your best bet would be to find a buyer for what you have and buy a Strix.


Here is another +1 for the Strix. I just got my power issue program card back from EVGA. It is supposed to hit power limits better and not have a power balance issues. Well the power balance issue is fixed. Now the sad part. They put in these cards what was originally intended to be a 3080ti chip. You can see below that the chips has GA 102 250 crossed out! We get lower binned chips for the people that intend on overclocking! I would trade this card for a strix in a heartbeat.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Phroz3 said:


> Here is another +1 for the Strix. I just got my power issue program card back from EVGA. It is supposed to hit power limits better and not have a power balance issues. Well the power balance issue is fixed. Now the sad part. They put in these cards what was originally intended to be a 3080ti chip. You can see below that the chips has GA 102 250 crossed out! We get lower binned chips for the people that intend on overclocking! I would trade this card for a strix in a heartbeat.


Wait, this is your 3090? That's messed up. What are you doing EVGA?


----------



## Phroz3

Sir Beregond said:


> Wait, this is your 3090? That's messed up. What are you doing EVGA?


Yep that is on a 3090 FTW3 Ultra. No rhyme or reason. Some people got the 300 chip, some did not. This chip should not be in a high end card.


----------



## EniGma1987

Looks to me like all those rumors of a 3080Ti chip supposed to be out months ago were true. ONly with sales of 3090 so good, Nvidia decided to just use the 3080Ti chips in 3090s to make higher profit.


----------



## Sir Beregond

EniGma1987 said:


> Looks to me like all those rumors of a 3080Ti chip supposed to be out months ago were true. ONly with sales of 3090 so good, Nvidia decided to just use the 3080Ti chips in 3090s to make higher profit.


That is my read on it too. Didn't know any of these chips actually made it out into cards though.


----------



## Phroz3

Sir Beregond said:


> That is my read on it too. Didn't know any of these chips actually made it out into cards though.


Guess I am special lol. Could be considered an engineering sample of sorts. It actually is drawing more power than my original card did (455 watts on air). I couldn't get a full run of port royal at +100 core though. We'll see if it does any better with the optimus block on it.


----------



## tbrown7552

Phroz3 said:


> Here is another +1 for the Strix. I just got my power issue program card back from EVGA. It is supposed to hit power limits better and not have a power balance issues. Well the power balance issue is fixed. Now the sad part. They put in these cards what was originally intended to be a 3080ti chip. You can see below that the chips has GA 102 250 crossed out! We get lower binned chips for the people that intend on overclocking! I would trade this card for a strix in a heartbeat.


What makes you think those chips are lower binned? They took 3090 chips and lowered the bus width for use in a 3080ti, then re enabled it for use in a 3090 again since 3080ti is delayed and instead is going to use a GA102-225. This was done at the nvidia level and youll probably see Strix cards with them to.


----------



## Phroz3

tbrown7552 said:


> What makes you think those chips are lower binned? They took 3090 chips and lowered the bus width for use in a 3080ti, then re enabled it for use in a 3090 again since 3080ti is delayed and instead is going to use a GA102-225. This was done at the nvidia level and youll probably see Strix cards with them to.


Mostly because it will not even take a +100 on the clock. Articles I have read suggest the same. Sample size of one and all but that is pretty poor results.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> +1 on that. I tried FTW once and went right back where I came from. Strix OC edition. Add to that the retail MSRP on the Strix OC Vs the FTW is about the same spread as adding the water block in with the card so you would probably end up finding yourself in the other seat. You would be lucky to find anyone wanting to trade straight up water block included, it would probably take some cash on your end. Your best bet would be to find a buyer for what you have and buy a Strix.


I have potential deal on my end where i can do the swap lol. Sure its a miner and phd grad doing research but for both of us an win for our purposes


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> Mostly because it will not even take a +100 on the clock. Articles I have read suggest the same. Sample size of one and all but that is pretty poor results.


I just got rmaed approved and took apart the block and put on cooler. Not too hard. Thankfully there wasn’t much damage done to the optimus backplate. Front plate i prob will replace the thermal pads and those were findable.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> I just got rmaed approved and took apart the block and put on cooler. Not too hard. Thankfully there wasn’t much damage done to the optimus backplate. Front plate i prob will replace the thermal pads and those were findable.


That is the same thing I did with the front. Replaced the 6 W/mk fujipoly pads with 17 W/mk fujipoly. They actually were easier to work with than the 6 W/mk that Optimus included.


----------



## BULLGOD19

Approximately how long did it take for the whole process getting the card replaced? And was getting the backplate off a total pain?


----------



## Phroz3

BULLGOD19 said:


> Approximately how long did it take for the whole process getting the card replaced? And was getting the backplate off a total pain?


Took about a week from me shipping it out to getting the new card back. The backplate isn't too bad. Only one nut that you cannot really get to but if you hold slight pressure up on the backplate it is enough friction to get the screw out.


----------



## Lobstar

Phroz3 said:


> Mostly because it will not even take a +100 on the clock. Articles I have read suggest the same. Sample size of one and all but that is pretty poor results.


And here I am doing +230 on air @ 1.081v w/ +1500 mem ... /shrug.


----------



## Phroz3

Lobstar said:


> And here I am doing +230 on air @ 1.081v w/ +1500 mem ... /shrug.


Did you look at your die when you had it apart? Ohh wait, you are still waiting on a block arent you


----------



## Lobstar

Only on my third two weeks from optimus ....


----------



## BULLGOD19

Phroz3 said:


> Took about a week from me shipping it out to getting the new card back. The backplate isn't too bad. Only one nut that you cannot really get to but if you hold slight pressure up on the backplate it is enough friction to get the screw out.


Thanks for that. And that repurposed 3080ti die belongs in a xc3, not the FTW3.


----------



## Phroz3

BULLGOD19 said:


> Thanks for that. And that repurposed 3080ti die belongs in a xc3, not the FTW3.


No problem. I agree, putting a chip that doesn't OC well (at least in my experience) in an overclocker's card especially in a special RMA program for overclockers is bad. The power balance issues on the PCIe slot is fixed though.


----------



## KedarWolf

Phroz3 said:


> That is the same thing I did with the front. Replaced the 6 W/mk fujipoly pads with 17 W/mk fujipoly. They actually were easier to work with than the 6 W/mk that Optimus included.


I used 12.8 wm/k Thermalright pads just because they are super cheap on Aliexpress. 120x120mm for like $26 USD.

Can take a month to get to NA from China though.


----------



## Phroz3

KedarWolf said:


> I used 12.8 wm/k Thermalright pads just because they are super cheap on Aliexpress. 120x120mm for like $26 USD.
> 
> Can take a month to get to NA from China though.


That is pretty cheap. I think I spent a little over $80 for enough to do the front with the fujis


----------



## KedarWolf

Phroz3 said:


> That is pretty cheap. I think I spent a little over $80 for enough to do the front with the fujis


Where did you buy them from?


----------



## Avacado

KedarWolf said:


> Where did you buy them from?


Any size you want.

Thermalright 12.8 W/mk

I have probably bought at least 20 packs from that seller, they are legit.


----------



## tbrown7552

Phroz3 said:


> Mostly because it will not even take a +100 on the clock. Articles I have read suggest the same. Sample size of one and all but that is pretty poor results.


yeah, ive seen 3090s do that as well. At this point its to hard to say if its silicon lottery or down binned.


----------



## KedarWolf

Phroz3 said:


> That is pretty cheap. I think I spent a little over $80 for enough to do the front with the fujis


I mean where did you buy the Fujis?


----------



## Avacado

KedarWolf said:


> I mean where did you buy the Fujis?





Amazon.ca : fujipoly



Side note: You can request free samples directly from Fujipoly. I have received some in the past for free. 






Fujipoly - Thermal Interface Materials - Request a Sample







www.fujipoly.com


----------



## KedarWolf

Avacado said:


> Amazon.ca : fujipoly
> 
> 
> 
> Side note: You can request free samples directly from Fujipoly. I have received some in the past for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fujipoly - Thermal Interface Materials - Request a Sample
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.fujipoly.com





Ultra Extreme Thermal Pads | Page 1 | Sort By: Product Title A-Z - FrozenCPU.com


----------



## JustinThyme

Fujipoly is the shiznit in my book. Some say they are over rated and over priced but Ive never had anything but improvements over stock or anything else. Hardest part is fining out what the correct thickness is.


----------



## JustinThyme

Phroz3 said:


> Here is another +1 for the Strix. I just got my power issue program card back from EVGA. It is supposed to hit power limits better and not have a power balance issues. Well the power balance issue is fixed. Now the sad part. They put in these cards what was originally intended to be a 3080ti chip. You can see below that the chips has GA 102 250 crossed out! We get lower binned chips for the people that intend on overclocking! I would trade this card for a strix in a heartbeat.


Thats a sad state of affairs for EVGA. Went there once back in the 980Ti days and the VRMS smoked and they blamed it on me and refused to honor the warranty. 
Been running Strix OC cards ever since. Sitting out this round as my pair of 2080Tis are taking everything I throw at them. No Nvlink on 3080s so Id have to buy a pair of 3090s to top what I have and I dont think $4K MSRP + blocks is worth it when what I have does just fine on the 3440x1440 PG35VQ 200Hz monitor I have. If I was running a high refresh rate 4K monitor it might be a different story but Im not and most likely wont. No reason IMO unless you have a 60 inch display that you have to sit 5 6 feet back from to see whats going on. Nope this 35 inch curved is just right but at times I still find myself having to look from side to side at 2ft away. If gaming is all you do a 27 inch would be the best match. I do a lot of other things where I need the real estate to have two windows open side by side. Im good where I am.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Thats a sad state of affairs for EVGA. Went there once back in the 980Ti days and the VRMS smoked and they blamed it on me and refused to honor the warranty.
> Been running Strix OC cards ever since. Sitting out this round as my pair of 2080Tis are taking everything I throw at them. No Nvlink on 3080s so Id have to buy a pair of 3090s to top what I have and I dont think $4K MSRP + blocks is worth it when what I have does just fine on the 3440x1440 PG35VQ 200Hz monitor I have. If I was running a high refresh rate 4K monitor it might be a different story but Im not and most likely wont. No reason IMO unless you have a 60 inch display that you have to sit 5 6 feet back from to see whats going on. Nope this 35 inch curved is just right but at times I still find myself having to look from side to side at 2ft away. If gaming is all you do a 27 inch would be the best match. I do a lot of other things where I need the real estate to have two windows open side by side. Im good where I am.


I hope block situation is much better at start. I am sticking with founders for next release (if nvidia). No cut corners and if references pcb its quick blocks. Save an nice bundle too

Hopefully supply issues resolved by 2023/2024 for rdna3/lovelace or hopper.


----------



## Lobstar

Please hurry and ship my gpu block so I get this 5950x under my foundation block . I still have to clean it up but I can't wait to try it!


----------



## Section31

Anyone have suggestions on how to clean out the Mo-ra3 radiator. I can confirm the copperish stuff coming from it now, i see specs sticking on the optimus gpu block.


----------



## Lobstar

Section31 said:


> Anyone have suggestions on how to clean out the Mo-ra3 radiator. I can confirm the copperish stuff coming from it now, i see specs sticking on the optimus gpu block.


Mayhem's Blitz 1+2 for the radiator. Back flow the cpu block to push the junk out of the fins by putting water in the output side of the block and letting the junk fall out the input side. You shouldn't need much pressure so just pour the water through a funnel or something from a decent height in the sink. I personally believe it's more risky to disassemble the block but you could also do that.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> Mayhem's Blitz 1+2 for the radiator. Back flow the cpu block to push the junk out of the fins by putting water in the output side of the block and letting the junk fall out the input side. You shouldn't need much pressure so just pour the water through a funnel or something from a decent height in the sink. I personally believe it's more risky to disassemble the block but you could also do that.


Thanks. I already did take apart the block and put it back together and clean it up. Going to do rad cleaning at some point before the gpu comes back from rma


----------



## Section31




----------



## LiquidHaus

Section31 said:


> Anyone have suggestions on how to clean out the Mo-ra3 radiator. I can confirm the copperish stuff coming from it now, i see specs sticking on the optimus gpu block.


The MoRa3 radiators are clean from the start. It's been stated from company reps as well as my experience with the four that I've had in hand. They're exceptionally clean compared to the more traditional soldered radiators.

Are you sure the debris is coming from that?


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> The MoRa3 radiators are clean from the start. It's been stated from company reps as well as my experience with the four that I've had in hand. They're exceptionally clean compared to the more traditional soldered radiators.
> 
> Are you sure the debris is coming from that?


Only other source is hwl rad but that rad been cleaned like three times by me. The ultitube 150 is clean, the filter is picking up stuff if anything. Spent 3hours but cleaned out most of the debris


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> The MoRa3 radiators are clean from the start. It's been stated from company reps as well as my experience with the four that I've had in hand. They're exceptionally clean compared to the more traditional soldered radiators.
> 
> Are you sure the debris is coming from that?


Maybe I need to replace that GTR rad with an heatkiller internal rad also lol


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Anyone have suggestions on how to clean out the Mo-ra3 radiator. I can confirm the copperish stuff coming from it now, i see specs sticking on the optimus gpu block.


I did that before anything else. Filled with white vinegar and ran it for a day. Dump and fluhed several times with DW and then filled it again and ran it for another day with DW and an inline filter to see if it was catching anything. If you are seeing specs it could be the optimus block itself. I had a perfectly clean system then added a Sig V2 with the electroless plating guaranteed not to flake......It flaked like an old lady after a case of wine. Fortunately inline filter caught it. Pulled the block as that was the only change to the loop and sure as sheet the plating on the fins of the cold plate was all but completely gone. In their defense they sent me a replacement cold plate overnight. If you have been running that MORA for awhile without issue and now you have issues I wouldnt be so quick to point the finger at the MORA. Thats one of the few rads that I didnt see anything come out of, was actually surprised. Just like HW labs says all their rads are flushed before shipping. Well from everyone Ive bought they must flush them with green goop because those I looked into the ports and the copper was anything but clean and shiny. Resorted to old navy trick for bright work, laid them on their backs with ports facing up and a little extension and filled them up with coca cola overnight. The green goop the had oozed out of the ports just from the coke bubbling the next morning was gross. Flush the crap out of them after with hot tap water for about 15 mins then a DW rinse and put them in the loop. The MORA is the only one ever that didn't ooze flux. If you use mayhems isloate it and just let a pump circulate just through the rad then flush the crap out of it.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2485262



That looks like the plating is flaking. Did that just wipe off?


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> That looks like the plating is flaking. Did that just wipe off?


Mostly after couple hours of cleaning.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> Mostly after couple hours of cleaning.


Didn’t you just get it? How long has that been in use?


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Didn’t you just get it? How long has that been in use?


Couple Days but it’s probably as justinthyme said, hwlrads must still have some flux in it.


----------



## Avacado

Section31 said:


> Couple Days but it’s probably as justinthyme said, hwlrads must still have some flux in it.


Glad you were able to clean it. I learned that lesson a long long time ago. I leave filters on for about 2 weeks after new builds for exactly this reason.


----------



## Section31

Avacado said:


> Glad you were able to clean it. I learned that lesson a long long time ago. I leave filters on for about 2 weeks after new builds for exactly this reason.


I might buy one just to filter out the rest of it.


----------



## JustinThyme

I leave filters on always. First time I had to pull a loop apart and yank all the blocks apart and clean them I’ll not run without one. Aqauacomputer makes one for like $35 with built in ball valves so you can isolate it, pull the screen and clean it and put it back in. Still need to put a small container in there to catch the little bit of fluid the comes out when you pop out the screen but it doesn’t take much. Some complain about it being a flow restriction, my take on that is if a filter causes a flow restriction it’s one of two reasons. It’s clogged with crap or your pump/s are weak. When mine clogged over the SigV2 plating fiasco I only knew it happened because my flow rate was cut in half. Thought I lost a pump at first and unplugged them one at a time and it only dropped more. Then I saw all the crap in the filter screen. Pulled it, cleaned it and popped it back in and problem solved except I had to figure out where that crap came from. Logical first choice was the only thing that got changed and that was the culprit so still had to drain the loop but at least it was only 4 screws on the cold plate. I didn’t bother putting another block on. Just waited for replacement cold plate as I hate working out air bubbles.


----------



## Sir Beregond

To me, if a filter is causing that much flow restriction, then 1. it's working and you need to clean it, 2. your pumps are set too low.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> To me, if a filter is causing that much flow restriction, then 1. it's working and you need to clean it, 2. your pumps are set too low.


I probably will buy one when i buy mayhem XTR 4nm solution. I also think i never noticed before i started using Optimus stuff because the other brands stuff aren't something you look at everyday and any gunk/etc is not noticable. I was using heatkiller full copper iv intel/am4 block and heatkiller 2080ti block. Both hard to see anything.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I leave filters on always. First time I had to pull a loop apart and yank all the blocks apart and clean them I’ll not run without one. Aqauacomputer makes one for like $35 with built in ball valves so you can isolate it, pull the screen and clean it and put it back in. Still need to put a small container in there to catch the little bit of fluid the comes out when you pop out the screen but it doesn’t take much. Some complain about it being a flow restriction, my take on that is if a filter causes a flow restriction it’s one of two reasons. It’s clogged with crap or your pump/s are weak. When mine clogged over the SigV2 plating fiasco I only knew it happened because my flow rate was cut in half. Thought I lost a pump at first and unplugged them one at a time and it only dropped more. Then I saw all the crap in the filter screen. Pulled it, cleaned it and popped it back in and problem solved except I had to figure out where that crap came from. Logical first choice was the only thing that got changed and that was the culprit so still had to drain the loop but at least it was only 4 screws on the cold plate. I didn’t bother putting another block on. Just waited for replacement cold plate as I had working out air bubbles.


I really like the Ultitube filter too, It does work and pickup anything. I've been cleaning optimus cold plates (and in some cases re-ordering) over last year and half because of the issue.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> I really like the Ultitube filter too, It does work and pickup anything. I've been cleaning optimus cold plates (and in some cases re-ordering) over last year and half because of the issue.


What's weird is I have not seen that copper transfer issues on most blocks before. I didn't have a Blitz kit handy when I threw my current loop together in an emergency rebuild and so far have not noticed any copper color in the block. Though they are already cleaned rads I've been using for 6+ years, so guess we'll see with the new loop.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I really like the Ultitube filter too, It does work and pickup anything. I've been cleaning optimus cold plates (and in some cases re-ordering) over last year and half because of the issue.


Yeah I was taken a back by it but its only happened to me the one time. Of course I got the old " A batch must have slipped though" but they did send out a new cold plate. First time Id every had Nickel plating flake on me. EK got a bad rap over some flaking issues but Ive never had that happen to any EK blocks. Ive not used any in awhile though. Everything up until I got the Sig V2 has been heatkiller for both CPU and Their GPU blocks rock even more. My pair of 1080Tis in my HETPC have EK blocks, they worked fine but the 2080Ti blocks for the Strix cards (and probably others) are just butt ugly. The heatkillers keep my cards nice and cool and are easy on the eyes too. Even the phanteks blocks (their second year in water cooling) looked better than that monstrosity EK put out. Looked like a Frankenstein block.

This












or This












I chose the latter and cant be happier with the performance. I was running the HKIV CPU block and took the Optimus challenge. It got me a few C cooler but nothing monumental. The Sig V2 top is a massive chunk of nickel plated brass. Heavy as hell. I think you could run for awhile with no water....


----------



## JustinThyme

Sir Beregond said:


> What's weird is I have not seen that copper transfer issues on most blocks before. I didn't have a Blitz kit handy when I threw my current loop together in an emergency rebuild and so far have not noticed any copper color in the block. Though they are already cleaned rads I've been using for 6+ years, so guess we'll see with the new loop.


Yeah that many years and whatever was in there is out. I just put in a "Factory Flushed" clean HW labs block once and the PITA of all the goop I had to clean out of blocks left me to flushing the crap out of ecerything before putting it in. I even flushed the Optimus block, took a month later before the plating let go.


----------



## Sir Beregond

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah that many years and whatever was in there is out. I just put in a "Factory Flushed" clean HW labs block once and the PITA of all the goop I had to clean out of blocks left me to flushing the crap out of ecerything before putting it in. I even flushed the Optimus block, took a month later before the plating let go.


Yeah, still trying to figure out which rads for the new build. But already snagged a Blitz kit in preparation.


----------



## Sap

Nobody had his block shipped last week?


----------



## Lobstar

Sap said:


> Nobody had his block shipped last week?


----------



## Avacado

Lobstar said:


> View attachment 2485479


Ouch.


----------



## Lobstar

Avacado said:


> Ouch.


At least the "Orders placed today ship in 1-2 weeks!" banner isn't taunting me on the site every time I check my order any more.


----------



## Shawnb99

At least your block is designed and you can order. I'm still at least 10 weeks out and likely a whole lot more based on the last update


----------



## Lobstar

Shawnb99 said:


> At least your block is designed and you can order. I'm still at least 10 weeks out and likely a whole lot more based on the last update


I've learned not to wait on the promises of companies. I was eager to get a Heatkiller block for my 3090 FTW3U but they cancelled it back in January.


----------



## Shawnb99

I've only been waiting 6+ months on this rebuild atm so what's another 2 more.


----------



## kairi_zeroblade

where can I order this waterblock? been checking the website and still says out of stock, is it really??


----------



## Shawnb99

kairi_zeroblade said:


> where can I order this waterblock? been checking the website and still says out of stock, is it really??


What block and yeah really. The GPU block is made in like batches of 40 or so and sell out in minutes. Goes on sale on Fridays I believe


----------



## kairi_zeroblade

Shawnb99 said:


> What block and yeah really. The GPU block is made in like batches of 40 or so and sell out in minutes. Goes on sale on Fridays I believe


I am in need of the Optimus Foundation for AM4..its like always sold out when I try to check in..dang..


----------



## Shawnb99

Try emailing them and see if they can give a better estimate. Otherwise check PPC, and anywhere else that might have them


----------



## Lobstar

kairi_zeroblade said:


> where can I order this waterblock? been checking the website and still says out of stock, is it really??


Just be aware it's never really 'in-stock'. When it goes available for purchase you'll still be waiting several months. They tend to go available for sale every Friday but due to 'global shipping issues' they did not make any available for purchase recently. It's a good product but their own estimates on shipping are highly optimistic at best and deceiving at worst.


----------



## kairi_zeroblade

I don't want to touch any EK stuff with the horror I have seen for the past few years now..lol..somebody locally was able to buy it but at the time when it was on stock.. I was pestering him if he would sell me the block..lol..

Thanks for the heads up..


----------



## Shawnb99

kairi_zeroblade said:


> I don't want to touch any EK stuff with the horror I have seen for the past few years now..lol..somebody locally was able to buy it but at the time when it was on stock.. I was pestering him if he would sell me the block..lol..
> 
> Thanks for the heads up..


Heatkiller is the second best option and "should" have better stock


----------



## Sir Beregond

I was able to buy my AM4 Foundations block back in February on one of the Fridays it went "in-stock". It then shipped 3 weeks later.


----------



## JustinThyme

kairi_zeroblade said:


> I am in need of the Optimus Foundation for AM4..its like always sold out when I try to check in..dang..


Those you can also find elsewhere like Performance PCs however they also show no stock ATM. Another place to check though. I bought and Intel foundation from PPCs with Optimus having no stock and got a SigV2 directly from Optimus. Just another place to check.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Heatkiller is the second best option and "should" have better stock


Well that’s a bit bold LOL.

if you are speaking of CPU blocks I can tell you on Intel what I’ve tested the EK magnitude is dead on with the Optimus. TechN is supposed to be a good alternative but I’ve not personally tested one. HeatKiller IV Pro under exactly the same controlled conditions was 3C behind the Optimus and Magnitude. I found the foundation not to be significantly different than the much higher priced SigV2 but believe this to be chip specific. It’s about getting a good seating. Two chips with same sku can have a different IHS curvature. (Me and thrash showed this on two 994OX chips). Things aren’t as easy as they were in the old days where everything was direct die and everything was FLAT!! That’s one thing that makes the magnitude more attractive. With the Optimus you get what you get. You want to change it get to lapping. With the Magnitude there are multiple cold plates and multiple jet plates. Best performance at this point is either get something you can reconfigure or be ready to lap the cold plate and IHS surface. I might lap mine eventually but not while the chip still has a warranty.


----------



## Bart

I order a TechN, it shipped quick to DHL, but it's been stuck for 2 weeks now waiting for the plane to fill up I guess. I'll swap the Optmus out for that and see what the difference is, if any.


----------



## JustinThyme

Bart said:


> I order a TechN, it shipped quick to DHL, but it's been stuck for 2 weeks now waiting for the plane to fill up I guess. I'll swap the Optmus out for that and see what the difference is, if any.


Yeah we need a comparison. See reviews from the usual places but I give ZERO credibility to techpowerup after they posted Optimus king of the hill then EK sends a sample and changes it to EK magnitude by 0.10C on a weak ass system using average core. Now if you have 1-2C that's a difference but still not that much. 3C you have an argument. 0.10C, really? Well within the margin of error to call a winner over that. I mdae multiple runs with all of them and in the end I call both the Optimus blocks and the EK magnitude comparable. Had similar runs with all 3 and not just 3 runs, dozens of runs. The only one that pulled ahead by a little was the magnitude in a low flow condition as in 1 D5 damn near at stall. Other than that they were all too close to call. All runs with the same bench and ambient all had low runs on my rig of 79C and high of 82C. I used blender classroom in a 30 min loop. CB23 is a good 5C cooler.


----------



## ilal2ielli

Sir Beregond said:


> I was able to buy my AM4 Foundations block back in February on one of the Fridays it went "in-stock". It then shipped 3 weeks later.


Same here. I've had it sitting in the box until I get a chance to teardown my rig. After that I'll be watching like a hawk for the 3090 Strix block to be available for order...


----------



## LiquidHaus

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah we need a comparison. See reviews from the usual places but I give ZERO credibility to techpowerup after they posted Optimus king of the hill then EK sends a sample and changes it to EK magnitude by 0.10C on a weak ass system using average core. Now if you have 1-2C that's a difference but still not that much. 3C you have an argument. 0.10C, really? Well within the margin of error to call a winner over that. I mdae multiple runs with all of them and in the end I call both the Optimus blocks and the EK magnitude comparable. Had similar runs with all 3 and not just 3 runs, dozens of runs. The only one that pulled ahead by a little was the magnitude in a low flow condition as in 1 D5 damn near at stall. Other than that they were all too close to call. All runs with the same bench and ambient all had low runs on my rig of 79C and high of 82C. I used blender classroom in a 30 min loop. CB23 is a good 5C cooler.


VSG did that review. He's one of the most OG and real reviewers out there. 0.10c difference taking the win is exactly the kind of accuracy VSG does with his reviews, which is exactly why his are so well detailed and informative.

I have all the high end blocks other than the TechN block (they said they'd send me one but then flaked) and I also don't have the Signature V2.

I even have XSPC's latest Raystorm Edge block which is currently cooling my 11900k and doing a great job at it seeing as there's also a 3090 ftw3 in the loop as well with only two 240mm radiators.

I had planned to do a block roundup like the good old days however TechN didn't send their block over. I would do it if I had every player in the game.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah that many years and whatever was in there is out. I just put in a "Factory Flushed" clean HW labs block once and the PITA of all the goop I had to clean out of blocks left me to flushing the crap out of ecerything before putting it in. I even flushed the Optimus block, took a month later before the plating let go.


I took detailed look at the gtr rad and junk was 100% from the radiator. Just that it sticks easier on optimus than heatkiller. I may order three heatkiller rads now


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I took detailed look at the gtr rad and junk was 100% from the radiator. Just that it sticks easier on optimus than heatkiller. I may order three heatkiller rads now
> 
> View attachment 2485543


Telling ya, lay that sucker on its back and fill it with coca cola and cleave it sit over night.


----------



## mongoled

LiquidHaus said:


> I even have XSPC's latest Raystorm Edge


Nice, would be great to see it in a comparable test with the other top contenders!

PM me if you want some assistance in getting hold of someone at Techn ...


----------



## JustinThyme

kairi_zeroblade said:


> I don't want to touch any EK stuff with the horror I have seen for the past few years now..lol..somebody locally was able to buy it but at the time when it was on stock.. I was pestering him if he would sell me the block..lol..
> 
> Thanks for the heads up..


No matter where you go, there it is. Nickel plating all done in China. Probably the kids they are sending into the scrap yard collecting too much mercury instead......Yeah there was bad batches frrom EK, bad batches from Optimus (I got one of those personally) and probably everywhere else. Its what you get when you outsource and pay chump change. Hell we use nickel plating on copper bus bars in large electrical distribution applications. Then the ass hats were thinning it out with tin........No bueno!! Tin with electricity will grow little hairs you can physically see with a flash light, only a matter of time until the "Tin Whiskers" bridge the gap close enough for an arc flash. Google tin whiskers. The crap Ive seen blown to smithereens. We had to sent out samples to an independent metallurgist as the people doing the work denied the hell out of it. Sure as ****.....TIN in the mix to thin it out. Takes a few years for it to do its thing so by the time that particular product line was identified were talking hundreds of millions replacing all the bus work. And of course it was outsourced in another country and not a damn thing could be done to recoup the losses. Only tell them to shove it up their ass that they wouldn't be getting our business anymore. All over thinning the mix to make a few bucks extra, not even significant amount. Just a for instance making 5 cents more for plating a 10 ft long 3 inch by 1/2 inch copper bus. by thinning the nickel with tin.


----------



## kairi_zeroblade

JustinThyme said:


> No matter where you go, there it is. Nickel plating all done in China. Probably the kids they are sending into the scrap yard collecting too much mercury instead......Yeah there was bad batches frrom EK, bad batches from Optimus (I got one of those personally) and probably everywhere else. Its what you get when you outsource and pay chump change. Hell we use nickel plating on copper bus bars in large electrical distribution applications. Then the ass hats were thinning it out with tin........No bueno!! Tin with electricity will grow little hairs you can physically see with a flash light, only a matter of time until the "Tin Whiskers" bridge the gap close enough for an arc flash. Google tin whiskers. The crap Ive seen blown to smithereens. We had to sent out samples to an independent metallurgist as the people doing the work denied the hell out of it. Sure as ****.....TIN in the mix to thin it out. Takes a few years for it to do its thing so by the time that particular product line was identified were talking hundreds of millions replacing all the bus work. And of course it was outsourced in another country and not a damn thing could be done to recoup the losses. Only tell them to shove it up their ass that they wouldn't be getting our business anymore. All over thinning the mix to make a few bucks extra, not even significant amount. Just a for instance making 5 cents more for plating a 10 ft long 3 inch by 1/2 inch copper bus. by thinning the nickel with tin.


I will order the copper one instead..my rads are copper and my fittings are brass so seems to be safe..will also add a filter I just ordered..

isn't tin used in Canned goods..lol..(is it??)


----------



## Darb

Shawnb99 said:


> Try emailing them and see if they can give a better estimate. Otherwise check PPC, and anywhere else that might have them


PPC have not had Optimus stock since the initial offering. I have "email in stock" notices on reservoirs and AMD block. Ended up buying both directly from Optimus. Still keeping my notifications on as would like to build a double reservoir loop one day.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Section31 said:


> I took detailed look at the gtr rad and junk was 100% from the radiator. Just that it sticks easier on optimus than heatkiller. I may order three heatkiller rads now
> 
> View attachment 2485543


Is there a release date on the heatkiller rads yet?


----------



## Section31

Edge0fsanity said:


> Is there a release date on the heatkiller rads yet?


Nope. Always been soon


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> I took detailed look at the gtr rad and junk was 100% from the radiator. Just that it sticks easier on optimus than heatkiller. I may order three heatkiller rads now
> 
> View attachment 2485543


How do you clean the rads when you get them? White vinegar? Blitz kit? Coca-cola?


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> How do you clean the rads when you get them? White vinegar? Blitz kit? Coca-cola?


Hot tap water. So far there isn’t any green stuff but bunch of black dots came out.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Hot tap water. So far there isn’t any green stuff but bunch of black dots came out.


Yeah at the very least should do some vinegar or get a Blitz kit. Looks pretty dirty inside one of those ports in your pic.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Yeah at the very least should do some vinegar or get a Blitz kit. Looks pretty dirty inside one of those ports in your pic.


Going to do more cleaning over next couple days since gpu is gone to rma.


----------



## Lobstar

Section31 said:


> Going to do more cleaning over next couple days since gpu is gone to rma.


I tend to go a bit overboard but I bought a cheap pump and res for cleaning my rads. This way I ensure all surfaces of the radiator are being cleaned and the solution is able to continue moving the junk away. I also use a filter before the res to catch the gunk.








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I power the pump with my external fan power supply for my MORA3. 








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----------



## Shawnb99

Lobstar said:


> I tend to go a bit overboard but I bought a cheap pump and res for cleaning my rads. This way I ensure all surfaces of the radiator are being cleaned and the solution is able to continue moving the junk away. I also use a filter before the res to catch the gunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: BXQINLENX SC600 DC 12V PC CPU Water Cooling System Tool Water Pump 132.09 GPH 10W Brushless Drive Water Pump for Destop Computer Laptop Computer : Electronics
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I power the pump with my external fan power supply for my MORA3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


Radiators are best cleaned with something acidic hence why vinegar, coke or Blitz part 1 is used. That is not good for even on a cheap pump and or tubing. It's better to fill, let it sit for 24 hours then flush clean. then make sure you counteract the acid before adding the radiators back to your loop as all of these methods can destroy that shiny nickel plating everyone uses.


----------



## alexsoxfan01

My gpu order 3623 from February 12 just shipped.


----------



## Lobstar

Shawnb99 said:


> Radiators are best cleaned with something acidic hence why vinegar, coke or Blitz part 1 is used. That is not good for even on a cheap pump and or tubing. It's better to fill, let it sit for 24 hours then flush clean. then make sure you counteract the acid before adding the radiators back to your loop as all of these methods can destroy that shiny nickel plating everyone uses.


I've used blitz 1 with this setup every time. It's fine. It's a throw-away setup. Remove rads from the system, connect with brass fittings and ZMT tubing, let it go over night. I follow it up with blitz 2 in the same setup before re-introducing to my loop. It's survived several cleanings and if the pump fails then it's doing exactly what you describe anyway. I don't use this on my system. I just connect my rads with my 'cleaning' gear.


----------



## Lobstar

alexsoxfan01 said:


> My gpu order 3623 from February 12 just shipped.


Ah, then I'm getting closer with my Feb 26 order! Still shows unfulfilled today.


----------



## Shawnb99

Lobstar said:


> I've used blitz 1 with this setup every time. It's fine. It's a throw-away setup. Remove rads from the system, connect with brass fittings and ZMT tubing, let it go over night. I follow it up with blitz 2 in the same setup before re-introducing to my loop. It's survived several cleanings and if the pump fails then it's doing exactly what you describe anyway. I don't use this on my system. I just connect my rads with my 'cleaning' gear.


You know you can keep the leftovers from the Blitz part 1 and resuse it multiple times.


----------



## JustinThyme

kairi_zeroblade said:


> I will order the copper one instead..my rads are copper and my fittings are brass so seems to be safe..will also add a filter I just ordered..
> 
> isn't tin used in Canned goods..lol..(is it??)


The other end with bare copper is it’s going to oxidize. Not if, but when. Doesn’t really have an effect on its cooling properties AFAIK but the pretty shiny copper goes out the window. I always go nickel plated because it doesn’t oxidize and it doesn’t react with other metals. Yeah flaking happens, that’s one who did the plating. I’ve been fortunate with it thus far and only had one flaking incident with the Sig V2 cold plate. I’ve not had issues with EK products in the past or Heat Killer. My HTPC runs a heatkiller IV pro block and two EK GPU blocks for strix 1080ti, all nickel plated. Problem is and always will be the bottom line. If I had someone doing my plating and no problems I wouldn’t be putting it out for bid every year. There’s a reason one can underbid the hell out of another. Way back when I owned an electrical construction company that also did automation and robotics I lost a very large bid on a steel mill. Not by a little but massively! I spent awhile trying to figure out how I could get it so wrong. In the end I made a fortune off of the same place redoing every bit of it on a time and materials basis. Had a crew in there for two years. The winner of the bid used thin wall EMT pipe where I bid all rigid threaded pipe which is not just a lot more expensive but more labor intensive to install. Well it wasn’t a month into operation when the first call came in. A fork lift crushing the pipe. Then heat burning up wiring in another. After several of these projects they just decided to bite the bullet and start from one end and work our way to the other replacing everything. So in the end the company that underbid me made me a lot of 💰. The bid package didn’t specify industrial applications and what type of materials. They tried to go after the first contractor but instead ending up going after the engineer that didn’t specify. For me it was common sense.


----------



## JustinThyme

LiquidHaus said:


> VSG did that review. He's one of the most OG and real reviewers out there. 0.10c difference taking the win is exactly the kind of accuracy VSG does with his reviews, which is exactly why his are so well detailed and informative.
> 
> I have all the high end blocks other than the TechN block (they said they'd send me one but then flaked) and I also don't have the Signature V2.
> 
> I even have XSPC's latest Raystorm Edge block which is currently cooling my 11900k and doing a great job at it seeing as there's also a 3090 ftw3 in the loop as well with only two 240mm radiators.
> 
> I had planned to do a block roundup like the good old days however TechN didn't send their block over. I would do it if I had every player in the game.


IMO 0.10C is too tight when I can do consecutive runs with the same hardware and settings and get 2-3C spread over multiple runs, of course allowing the loop to settle back down between runs. I also never went off of averages. I looked at what counts, the Max temp reached. That’s why I spent so much time with the Sig V2 and the Magnitude. Just one day to the next makes a difference especially after the initial mount and curing of the TIM. I always started with a heat up cycle and let it run for an hour then left it to come down idling and stabilize then commence my runs. With those two blocks I had the same results. Lowest 30 min AVX workload of 79C and highest of 82C. All of this of course after figuring out how particular both are to amount TIM and mounting technique. They both like tight mounts with minimal TIM. After I figured that out day one was just running the crap out of it and after I soaked the loop and everything was still hot did final torque on mounts. Then shut it down and leave it be until the next day to start the recorded runs. The first mounting kit that came with the Sig V2 gave me crap results. I pulled the springs and gained 5C. Now they all come with springless mounts.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Nope. Always been soon


Which rads are you referring to? Watercool has quite the extensive lineup already. New kid on the block? I’m still in the midst of putting a MORA3 420 in my loop and yanking two EK rads out even though I’ve not had any trouble from them. Only thing I’m leaving in the case is a GTR 420 and GTS 360. Both of which got the Coca-Cola treatment before installing. Those clean rads bubbled out a lot of goop and when I was done a look inside showed clean shiny copper on the end I could see anyhow. Tried the same on the MORA but impossible to just pour it in on those so it got 24 hours it white vinegar followed by several flushes with DW. Actually nothing came out of that. Had a filter in there just to see and it was just as clean after as it was before.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Which rads are you referring to? Watercool has quite the extensive lineup already. New kid on the block? I’m still in the midst of putting a MORA3 420 in my loop and yanking two EK rads out even though I’ve not had any trouble from them. Only thing I’m leaving in the case is a GTR 420 and GTS 360. Both of which got the Coca-Cola treatment before installing. Those clean rads bubbled out a lot of goop and when I was done a look inside showed clean shiny copper on the end I could see anyhow. Tried the same on the MORA but impossible to just pour it in on those so it got 24 hours it white vinegar followed by several flushes with DW. Actually nothing came out of that. Had a filter in there just to see and it was just as clean after as it was before.


Referring to the new Internal radiator coming out. The ones they talked about since fall of 2020 and we saw pictures in some build around early 2021. They were giving many dates including end of March but now have reverted to soon. Normally would get other rads in meantime but in current economy, i rather get the right rad (and not spend double) so waiting for heatkiller.

Just bought more coca cola for the purpose of cleaning. If I am going to do it i am going to clean it well. Also another drain of the damn Mo-Ra coming. Buying more distilled water for that.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Referring to the new Internal radiator coming out. The ones they talked about since fall of 2020 and we saw pictures in some build around early 2021. They were giving many dates including end of March but now have reverted to soon. Normally would get other rads in meantime but in current economy, i rather get the right rad (and not spend double) so waiting for heatkiller.
> 
> Just bought more coca cola for the purpose of cleaning. If I am going to do it i am going to clean it well. Also another drain of the damn Mo-Ra coming. Buying more distilled water for that.


Well, at least the DW is fairly cheap. As much as I’ve done this I’m about ready to set up my own still and use to to make corn liquor when I’m done making DW.
(ssssshhh already have a small one and just ran 20 qts of mash) actually legal so long as you aren’t making liquor, just making fuel. Damn fuel tastes pretty good though!


----------



## Lobstar

JustinThyme said:


> Well, at least the DW is fairly cheap. As much as I’ve done this I’m about ready to set up my own still and use to to make corn liquor when I’m done making DW.


Reverse Osmosis water systems are fairly common for homes as well. Filters can be a little costly depending on how much you use it but they are great if you are into aquariums as well.


----------



## JustinThyme

Lobstar said:


> Reverse Osmosis water systems are fairly common for homes as well. Filters can be a little costly depending on how much you use it but they are great if you are into aquariums as well.


Yeah RO isn't too bad. They just take forever unless you have the industrial version with a pump that forces more pressure on the water going in the membrane. Have one for my sink for drinking water that just runs off of city water poressure and a separate tap, takes like 5 mins to fill a gallon pitcher, or so it seems. Yeah I have two aquariums, one large 100 gallon and one medium 30 gallon. I generally use 5 gallon buckets for those. Both fresh water beacause SW is a PITA to keep everything just right. Both tanks well established with good bacteria. I think the 30 is the newer of the two, square and sits in a corner, that one has been established for 15 years. When Im doing water changes I just use tap water and water conditioner with slime coat. Fill however many buckets I need, add conditioner and leave them sit a day before cranking up the gravel vac which drains down the water level then top it off with what I prepped the day before. Usually 20% of the volume of the tank once a month. Have massive power filters, big tank cycles 400GPH so the entire contents of the tank goes though the filtration in that 4 times an hour, actually a bit more as the actual water volume is 80-85 gallons. The rest is gravel on the bottom. Fish are easy so long as you set your tanks up correctly. Other than feeding its a few hours a month on both tanks of maintenance. My wife was like fish tanks are gross, they get all slimy. Im like then you never knew anyone who knew how to balance out the population in an aquarium. Bottom feeders, mid feeders and top feeders then last but not least the janitors that keep the glass clean once the lights go out. I prefer the plecostomus for that. Amazing how big those suckers can get. Have two in the 100 gallon tank damn near a foot long and pushing 20 years old.


----------



## Lobstar

JustinThyme said:


> <FISH STUFF>


Not to derail the thread too much but I had a shrimp tank and loved it. I might have to set another one up some time when I have the room/time.


----------



## Section31

another round of intensive cleaning and made lot of progress. Got rid of those large black dots


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> another round of intensive cleaning and made lot of progress. Got rid of those large black dots


what did you do/use?


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> what did you do/use?


Toothpaste and qtip to pickup the stuff.


----------



## JustinThyme

@LiquidHaus 
Did you ever get any foundation RGB covers fabbed up?


----------



## Darb

For everyone looking for AMD blocks and GPU blocks they are both up for sale now on the Optimus web store.


----------



## KedarWolf

Darb said:


> For everyone looking for AMD blocks and GPU blocks they are both up for sale now on the Optimus web store.


No Strix OC RTX 3090 blocks yet.


----------



## Lobstar

Darb said:


> For everyone looking for AMD blocks and GPU blocks they are both up for sale now on the Optimus web store.


Six weeks and my GPU block has not shipped despite more being made available for purchase.


----------



## Optimus WC

Lobstar said:


> Six weeks and my GPU block has not shipped despite more being made available for purchase.


Yes, apologies for the delay, we (and everyone) are at the mercy of global shipping and sourcing issues -- Fujipoly pads are delaying things, so we're going to have those hopefully soon. And we're talking to Fujipoly japan to make sure we can keep the good stuff coming. Thankfully, the only things we source are Fuji pads, Xylem D5s, and then the materials. We have some issues with materials being harder to get, but that's mostly isolated to the high end acrylics we use.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, apologies for the delay, we (and everyone) are at the mercy of global shipping and sourcing issues -- Fujipoly pads are delaying things, so we're going to have those hopefully soon. And we're talking to Fujipoly japan to make sure we can keep the good stuff coming. Thankfully, the only things we source are Fuji pads, Xylem D5s, and then the materials. We have some issues with materials being harder to get, but that's mostly isolated to the high end acrylics we use.


More time to make my Kingpin block.


----------



## onMute

Shawnb99 said:


> More time to make my Kingpin block.


agreed


----------



## Section31

My


Phroz3 said:


> That is a win win if you already have someone willing to trade. The optimus block will keep his ram temps under control while mining.


Getting my 3090 Back next week. Thanks again for telling me about the advance RMA.


----------



## JustinThyme

KedarWolf said:


> No Strix OC RTX 3090 blocks yet.


I think Optimus and Watercool are the only ones that dont have them. EK has had them for awhile and actually surprised to see aquacomputer has them with an available active backplate.Even Corsair and TT pacifica has them as well as Phanteks.


----------



## Biggu

JustinThyme said:


> I think Optimus and Watercool are the only ones that dont have them. EK has had them for awhile and actually surprised to see aquacomputer has them with an available active backplate.Even Corsair and TT pacifica has them as well as Phanteks.


Ironically the only two places id buy from. I have no plans on getting stuff from EK just because I dont trust the nickle plating. Im shocked I was able to order a AM4 block today. I ordered a satin aluminum however I saw the black and I kinda feel like that would look nicer. I wonder how easily I could have them swap it out. Talk about a good day, was able to buy a 5950x Dark hero board AND an optimus AM4 block! Feels like I should go play the lottery.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> More time to make my Kingpin block.


Funny Guy.
What I read was blah blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah, here is your favorite, high end and COVID excuses. My wife works as an operations manager that deals with places globally both sourcing and final delivery to retailers and has zero issue with shipping delays other than some merchant paying for tickets in the cheap seats and calling and complaining because they are in the nose bleed section of shipping times instead of overnight. Right now is their busiest time of the year and they outsource EVERYTHING!! Id be lying if I said everything was smooth as clockwork but she MAKES it happen. Its a privately owned company and the principles don't want to hear excuses, they want to hear ship is on course and money is rolling in. Maybe Optimus should hire my wife to source for them. She can find an abundance of ice water in the Sahara Desert. Thing is she is good, but she isn't cheap with a double masters in business management and marketing from an Ivy league school. Makes more than my sorry a$$ BSEE.


----------



## JustinThyme

Biggu said:


> Ironically the only two places id buy from. I have no plans on getting stuff from EK just because I dont trust the nickle plating. Im shocked I was able to order a AM4 block today. I ordered a satin aluminum however I saw the black and I kinda feel like that would look nicer. I wonder how easily I could have them swap it out. Talk about a good day, was able to buy a 5950x Dark hero board AND an optimus AM4 block! Feels like I should go play the lottery.


Nickel plating is only as good as who you outsource it too. Non of them does their own plating. EK had a run with flaking and changed who they used for plating. Optimus says their plating isn't prefect either that most parts end up in the scrap bin (this is simply whats been said, I havent personally seen the scrap bin) and I can personally give you affirmation theirs is just as susceptible to flaking as anyone else. Already been down that road. If you have another reason its all good, just don't let it be plating because in the end.......all done in China.


----------



## Lobstar

JustinThyme said:


> Funny Guy.
> What I read was blah blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah..


I was thinking the same thing. How many shipments from Japan or China to the US go through the Suez? I know what I signed up for having paid attention to their lead times for many months but I figured they had things resolved when they started quoting 1-2 week lead times. Oh well. It's not like there are any competing blocks worth anything.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

JustinThyme said:


> Funny Guy.
> What I read was blah blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah, blah blah blah, here is your favorite, high end and COVID excuses.


I’m often here around but I tend to stay away from any conversations on the internet just because you can’t have any meaningful conversation but you guys seem to be all pretty chill here (mostly).
I’ve ordered for the first time from them 2 days ago the amd wateblock for my 5950x (should be here Monday in Toronto). In all honesty since I’ve heard the first time about “OPTIMUS” all I see from them is excuses,excuses and more excuses! Idk how good their products are,I did send them a message 2 weeks ago about their 12 Reservoir but I never received a reply,somebody else is going to get $200+ from me no issue there’s plenty of other manufacturers who do give a **** to reply!
The more time passes the more and more I’m turned off from Optimus. I mean you praise yourselves as the “High End Company” but somehow can’t week after week get your **** together? For the premium you are charging you aren’t delivering the “High End” promises and COVID isn’t a excuse it’s just you milking it out to the max.

Just my opinion on Optimus and that I agree with you 100%,they talk a lot but don’t do ****. You want $200 for a reservoir but can’t get back and answer a simple question before I hit buy? Piss off bought it somewhere else.


----------



## Shawnb99

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I’m often here around but I tend to stay away from any conversations on the internet just because you can’t have any meaningful conversation but you guys seem to be all pretty chill here (mostly).
> I’ve ordered for the first time from them 2 days ago the amd wateblock for my 5950x (should be here Monday in Toronto). In all honesty since I’ve heard the first time about “OPTIMUS” all I see from them is excuses,excuses and more excuses! Idk how good their products are,I did send them a message 2 weeks ago about their 12 Reservoir but I never received a reply,somebody else is going to get $200+ from me no issue there’s plenty of other manufacturers who do give a **** to reply!
> The more time passes the more and more I’m turned off from Optimus. I mean you praise yourselves as the “High End Company” but somehow can’t week after week get your **** together? For the premium you are charging you aren’t delivering the “High End” promises and COVID isn’t a excuse it’s just you milking it out to the max.
> 
> Just my opinion on Optimus and that I agree with you 100%,they talk a lot but don’t do ****. You want $200 for a reservoir but can’t get back and answer a simple question before I hit buy? Piss off bought it somewhere else.


Yes their communication and delivery times suck but once you do receive an Optimus product you'll find it's the best quality and much better then the rest. To me they are more of a niche manufacturer and not ready for mainstream.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I’m often here around but I tend to stay away from any conversations on the internet just because you can’t have any meaningful conversation but you guys seem to be all pretty chill here (mostly).
> I’ve ordered for the first time from them 2 days ago the amd wateblock for my 5950x (should be here Monday in Toronto). In all honesty since I’ve heard the first time about “OPTIMUS” all I see from them is excuses,excuses and more excuses! Idk how good their products are,I did send them a message 2 weeks ago about their 12 Reservoir but I never received a reply,somebody else is going to get $200+ from me no issue there’s plenty of other manufacturers who do give a **** to reply!
> The more time passes the more and more I’m turned off from Optimus. I mean you praise yourselves as the “High End Company” but somehow can’t week after week get your **** together? For the premium you are charging you aren’t delivering the “High End” promises and COVID isn’t a excuse it’s just you milking it out to the max.
> 
> Just my opinion on Optimus and that I agree with you 100%,they talk a lot but don’t do ****. You want $200 for a reservoir but can’t get back and answer a simple question before I hit buy? Piss off bought it somewhere else.


We are pretty chill group. This thread never stays on focus but its still alive compared to the rest. There are lot of your posts, even at Heatkiller Germany Hardwareluxx forum. The heatkiller forum has people chasing them on GPU blocks and couple on there new radiators.

Optimus is Optimus. I am very satisfied with them but i totally get you on the communication and other parts. Spend the money where you feel makes you most satisfied


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Nickel plating is only as good as who you outsource it too. Non of them does their own plating. EK had a run with flaking and changed who they used for plating. Optimus says their plating isn't prefect either that most parts end up in the scrap bin (this is simply whats been said, I havent personally seen the scrap bin) and I can personally give you affirmation theirs is just as susceptible to flaking as anyone else. Already been down that road. If you have another reason its all good, just don't let it be plating because in the end.......all done in China.


I did all the cleaning and i think the rad is toast. 


http://imgur.com/a/7xhXnCp


Extra Heatkiller rad it is


----------



## D-EJ915

JustinThyme said:


> I think Optimus and Watercool are the only ones that dont have them. EK has had them for awhile and actually surprised to see aquacomputer has them with an available active backplate.Even Corsair and TT pacifica has them as well as Phanteks.


I have 2 of the 1080 Ti Phanteks blocks and have no complaints, well made blocks with no issues during install. I wish they had more options for the 30 series.


----------



## asdf893

Section31 said:


> I did all the cleaning and i think the rad is toast.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/7xhXnCp
> 
> 
> Extra Heatkiller rad it is


heatkiller rads any good compared to HWL GTX?


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> heatkiller rads any good compared to HWL GTX?


Current htfs2 is mediocre product performance wise like aquacomputer internal rads. These we don’t know. Heatkiller/aquacomputer rads haven’t been updated since early 2010’s.


----------



## asdf893

Section31 said:


> Current htfs2 is mediocre product performance wise like aquacomputer internal rads. These we don’t know. Heatkiller/aquacomputer rads haven’t been updated since early 2010’s.


I hope this mora420 I just ordered doesnt suck :0


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> I hope this mora420 I just ordered doesnt suck :0


Mo-ra3 420 are good. Its going to be my main cooling unit till heatkiller new rads are out.


----------



## asdf893

Section31 said:


> Mo-ra3 420 are good. Its going to be my main cooling unit till heatkiller new rads are out.


mora 420 fits 9x 140mm fans. 2 HWL 560GTX fits 8x 140mm fans. Rads are similar thickness. Do you think the mora420 performs at least twice as well as 2x HWL GTX560?


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Guys got a question,I’m planning putting 2 rads both 60mm thick (top&bottom) and when I receive my distro plate for the Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 I have to see if a rad 480 or 420 can fit infront if not no big deal. But if money isn’t a issue what fans would you recommend? 
Is Noctua a12-25 still the best one or which is best for cooling?


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> mora 420 fits 9x 140mm fans. 2 HWL 560GTX fits 8x 140mm fans. Rads are similar thickness. Do you think the mora420 performs at least twice as well as 2x HWL GTX560?


Its close to two 560gtx per vsg testing.


----------



## Section31

In the process, Optimus FTW3 block is really well designed. That 3mm thick fujipoly is really durable.


----------



## Lobstar

asdf893 said:


> mora 420 fits 9x 140mm fans.


Not to be pedantic but it will support 18 of those fans with the correct configuration. I'm setting mine up with just 4x Noctua NF-A20 200mm fans as it's way easier to manage but I kinda want to get some matching NF-A14 iPPC 3Ks like I have on my Monsta 480s. I'm just not trying to spend twice the cost of the radiator on fans alone. I can't even imagine the level of noise ...


----------



## Shawnb99

Lobstar said:


> Not to be pedantic but it will support 18 of those fans with the correct configuration. I'm setting mine up with just 4x Noctua NF-A20 200mm fans as it's way easier to manage but I kinda want to get some matching NF-A14 iPPC 3Ks like I have on my Monsta 480s. I'm just not trying to spend twice the cost of the radiator on fans alone. I can't even imagine the level of noise ...


The 3k's are pretty loud. The 2k's not so much. Running 16 of those and 41 of the NF-A12's at max isn't as loud as you'd think. They tend to cancel each other out.
Around $2500 or so on fans for me


----------



## Section31

In process of cleaning up remainder of loop can confirm with certain the issue is with the hwl gtr rad. The mo-ra3 is super clean. The aquacomputer ultitube filter clean also. CPU block is also clean. 

Not sure what is causing the issue. Its as if whatever started from the hwl rads outlet went through the mo-ra3 and stuck onto the gpu block (sparing the cpu block this time)


----------



## Lobstar

Section31 said:


> In process of cleaning up remainder of loop can confirm with certain the issue is with the hwl gtr rad.


Yikes! How long has it been in service? Sorry for your loss but at least you figured it out.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> Yikes! How long has it been in service? Sorry for your loss but at least you figured it out.


1.5 years and i have ordered in corsair xr7 as temp rad till heatkiller new rads are out. Not worth continue cleaning


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> In process of cleaning up remainder of loop can confirm with certain the issue is with the hwl gtr rad. The mo-ra3 is super clean. The aquacomputer ultitube filter clean also. CPU block is also clean.
> 
> Not sure what is causing the issue. Its as if whatever started from the hwl rads outlet went through the mo-ra3 and stuck onto the gpu block (sparing the cpu block this time)
> 
> View attachment 2486076
> View attachment 2486077


What is this picture of? I can't tell.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> What is this picture of? I can't tell.


Thats the heatkiller mo-ra3 internal (or what you see inside it). Look at vsg review for reference.


----------



## JustinThyme

D-EJ915 said:


> I have 2 of the 1080 Ti Phanteks blocks and have no complaints, well made blocks with no issues during install. I wish they had more options for the 30 series.


I ran the phanteks blocks for awhile on my 2080Tis. They are actually very well made blocks. I was surprised. They performed fairly well. The only caveat is for the strix cards they didn't come with a back plate and the original I think was more of an insulator as they made zero contact. I left them without the backplate as I think a little air moving over them was better than a cover hovering over it holding heat in.. They were made to put the original back on but having them mounted vertically you couldn't seem them. When the HK blocks were finally released with a passive backpale I installed those and got like 2C drop. Nothing huge, but at least they make contact on the back of the memory, VRMS and GPU with thermal pads of course. 

But yeah when I opened the phanteks cases I was pleasantly surprised. For it being only their second year in making blocks the fit and finish was outstanding and machine work and plating was phenomenal. That was after I made the huge mistake and listened to a jack wagon that shall remain nameless at PPCs that told me the Barrow blocks were just as good as anything else on the market. HORSESHYTE!! Those were by far the worst made things I had ever seen. Gouge marks under the acrylic in the plating, burrs all over and the machining was very rough with sharp edges. Left me bleeding with one shard sticking out of a tapped hole that was done after plating. Then to add insult to injury the blocks were warped. The GPU itself was the only thing making contact. No contact at all on secondary VRMS, Primay about 1/3 and half of the memory then the real kicker the ports were so far left no Nvlink would fit. That crap went back fast than it arrived. After talking to Duke (not the other person) He did give me credit for the blocks and paid for the return shipping after I sent him all the photos. Pure crap!

But yeah here's a pair of Strix 2080Ti Phanteks blocks when I was still running a 9940X and R6E until I killed it. (bent the pins like a jacka$$) Im a bit disappointed there is no way to watercool the R6EE VRMs like the R6E. Only option is the EK full cover block that blows (cools trhe VRMS well but sucks on the CPU big time). Only other option is a bitpower that you lose the I/O top with the OLED display and no boot codes. Now running R6EE and 10980XE that i paid half as much as I did for the 9940X. VRMs dont get smoking, top out just under 60C but I liked the R6E with no fans and VRMs topping out at 40C a lot better.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Mo-ra3 420 are good. Its going to be my main cooling unit till heatkiller new rads are out.


About to put one in my loop. Its actually a newer design. Looks promising. Ive got it ready, just have to turn my GPUS back horizontal and replumb a good bit it what's inside. Im leaving a GTR 420 in and a GTS 360.


----------



## JustinThyme

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I’m often here around but I tend to stay away from any conversations on the internet just because you can’t have any meaningful conversation but you guys seem to be all pretty chill here (mostly).
> I’ve ordered for the first time from them 2 days ago the amd wateblock for my 5950x (should be here Monday in Toronto). In all honesty since I’ve heard the first time about “OPTIMUS” all I see from them is excuses,excuses and more excuses! Idk how good their products are,I did send them a message 2 weeks ago about their 12 Reservoir but I never received a reply,somebody else is going to get $200+ from me no issue there’s plenty of other manufacturers who do give a **** to reply!
> The more time passes the more and more I’m turned off from Optimus. I mean you praise yourselves as the “High End Company” but somehow can’t week after week get your **** together? For the premium you are charging you aren’t delivering the “High End” promises and COVID isn’t a excuse it’s just you milking it out to the max.
> 
> Just my opinion on Optimus and that I agree with you 100%,they talk a lot but don’t do ****. You want $200 for a reservoir but can’t get back and answer a simple question before I hit buy? Piss off bought it somewhere else.


I actually like my HK tube reservoirs better. I like what I did get from them but still waiting on the blem Sig V2 flat top they promised. Just wanted to try it out and if it did justice let them know they should stick with that line as the one I have now works better on a 10980XE with the jet gasket pulled out which takes out some of the bow. Been more than two months ago now and multiple attempts contacting them by posting in this thread, sending a PM here and emailing multiple times with not so much as an answer. They came in like a hurricane and are now fading like a fart in a hurricane. When they were just doing CPU blocks things were better with communication and they actually had stuff available to order. I dont know the capacity or how many or what type of machinery they run. I did see a reddit post where someone busted in on them and said they were running in the back of Dads shop and it was more of a pet project than a serious business. What I do know for certain is the communication with the exception of an occasional post here is non existent just as much as the products are. Like you said and like Ive said there are too many others that are competitive in the performance dept that actually has products. I have Everything I need but would be a bit chapped about now if I had a 3090 Strix waiting on that block. the 4090s will be out before the blocks for the 3090s.


----------



## chibi

Hey I sent inquiries 3 months ago and a second one a month later asking about a nickel cold plate for my sig v2 and no reply as well. Communication is definitely their weakest point.


----------



## Mxj1

I've actually had pretty good communication with them lately... But I've been resurrected a single old email chain with great success over the last couple months.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

chibi said:


> Hey I sent inquiries 3 months ago and a second one a month later asking about a nickel cold plate for my sig v2 and no reply as well. Communication is definitely their weakest point.


You’re wrong! Weak communication is when lets say they get back to you in 2-3 weeks a month maybe but if you never get a reply back you can’t say weak communication because with OPTIMUS communication doesn’t exist! 😂🤛

Regardless I’m done with them! I’ve seen enough,not to sound like I’m bragging but moneywise I can pretty much buy anything without thinking for a sec and if you want the amount you’re charging then I expect some honesty,decent communication and to somewhat get your **** together! There’s many other vendors out there who SOMEHOW manage to get it together,I’ll happily pay them.
The 2-3 degree difference isn’t nearly enough for me to stick with Optimus and getting played like a ****** week after week. I haven’t came across 1 single thread where atleast 75% of the comments didn’t bash on them regarding communication,timing,lying and what not…I think for Optimus COVID was a god given gift to milk out as an excuse.

Honestly I’m just waiting for the day when I see Optimus reply “Hey hey guys, unfortunately our super high end fancy machine who cuts and makes everything atleast 80% better then others just got COVID so it’ll be another 2-3 weeks atleast but rest assured if you are willing to wait you’ll get a 15% discount”

“HK tube reservoirs” I’ll go and check them out,didn’t really look to much at the res’s…was thinking going with a 150 bitspower cuboid but they only have currently 2 at titanrig and both DDC. Not sure how DDC compares to D5 in real life,saw a couple reviews but I don’t trust them to much.


----------



## Mxj1

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> “HK tube reservoirs” I’ll go and check them out,didn’t really look to much at the res’s…was thinking going with a 150 bitspower cuboid but they only have currently 2 at titanrig and both DDC. Not sure how DDC compares to D5 in real life,saw a couple reviews but I don’t trust them to much.


Also check out the Aquacomputer Ultitube. I think they're better than the heat killer - and MUCH easier to clean/service.


----------



## Darb

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> You’re wrong! Weak communication is when lets say they get back to you in 2-3 weeks a month maybe but if you never get a reply back you can’t say weak communication because with OPTIMUS communication doesn’t exist! 😂🤛
> 
> Regardless I’m done with them! I’ve seen enough,not to sound like I’m bragging but moneywise I can pretty much buy anything without thinking for a sec and if you want the amount you’re charging then I expect some honesty,decent communication and to somewhat get your **** together! There’s many other vendors out there who SOMEHOW manage to get it together,I’ll happily pay them.
> The 2-3 degree difference isn’t nearly enough for me to stick with Optimus and getting played like a **** week after week. I haven’t came across 1 single thread where atleast 75% of the comments didn’t bash on them regarding communication,timing,lying and what not…I think for Optimus COVID was a god given gift to milk out as an excuse.
> 
> Honestly I’m just waiting for the day when I see Optimus reply “Hey hey guys, unfortunately our super high end fancy machine who cuts and makes everything atleast 80% better then others just got COVID so it’ll be another 2-3 weeks atleast but rest assured if you are willing to wait you’ll get a 15% discount”
> 
> “HK tube reservoirs” I’ll go and check them out,didn’t really look to much at the res’s…was thinking going with a 150 bitspower cuboid but they only have currently 2 at titanrig and both DDC. Not sure how DDC compares to D5 in real life,saw a couple reviews but I don’t trust them to much.


Sell me all your Optimus gear 😀


----------



## zGunBLADEz

asdf893 said:


> mora 420 fits 9x 140mm fans. 2 HWL 560GTX fits 8x 140mm fans. Rads are similar thickness. Do you think the mora420 performs at least twice as well as 2x HWL GTX560?


the problem with the mora it aint as good as those phobya ones any rad high fins x inch ===> mora
The advantage of the mora is that is outside fresh intake ===> inside rads


===
in another note i see some ppl still impatient around this lands... cant get gear?? like everybody in some way or shape is on that boat...


----------



## dwolvin

Depends on your needs- High fins per inch in my house would be half clogged every day.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

dwolvin said:


> Depends on your needs- High fins per inch in my house would be half clogged every day.


i bet you anything if you mount those 2x HWL GTX560 outside will destroy the mora. XD even 1 560 will destroy it with the right fan combo.
Have a mora3 myself and phobya 1080&1260 this last 2 would eat for supper the mora..
mora advantage is looks cool, have accesories if you manage to find some lol


as a matter of fact look the perf of a single 560 with the right fan


Thermalbench.com


look how sharply it drops when you ramp up the speed on those fans..
1 single [email protected] fans vs a mora420 like 4x140mm vs 9x140mm fans just perf talking of course lol not noise. but theres some 2000rpm fans they quiet those Artic ones are awesome for those rads specially the new version.. then theres noctua 3k ones and then you have delta









then you get creative and end with stuff like this


Spoiler














still wip havent even touch it yet last thing i did to it was just made the holes to screw it on to the rad itself
2550cfm the h20 on that alone has to be ridiculous lol noise wise sounds like a regular house fan "more like white noise to me" than a computer fan specially if you pwn control it


----------



## Mxj1

2x 560 mounted externally doesn't look anywhere near as good as the mo-ra.










My nfa20 never spin faster than 300rpm and still maintain a ~5 delta under 100% load with 10900k and 3090. This thing is whisper quiet.


----------



## HyperMatrix

For those of you who ordered "in stock" items with express shipping, how long did it take for them to actually ship it out? The tightening screw on my Aquacomputer Kryos Next CPU block broke last or rather I broke it trying to get maximum mounting pressure.  Since it was a copper block that was going to soak up all my liquid metal and the parts would have to come from Germany and take a month to get here I figured I'd order an Optimus CPU block to match my future Optimus Kingpin block. I assumed I'd be able to get it this week according to the shipping/delivery times listed on the checkout page. So that's what I did last night. But I haven't seen any change in the order status and I guess I'm used to companies shipping out products on the same day when it's in stock and you're paying for express shipping.

Any guidance on how to set my expectations would be appreciated. If it's not going to arrive this week, then I'm going to have to jerry rig the existing block since the lack of proper pressure is causing 10C higher temps at idle and 20C+ higher temps under full load.


----------



## Lobstar

HyperMatrix said:


> Any guidance on how to set my expectations would be appreciated.


I'm very sorry to be the bearer of bad news however I wouldn't expect it for a couple months. Their twitter says 3-4 weeks which isn't a good sign because usually when it takes 8 weeks they are advertising 1-2 weeks. They like to make things available for purchase that seemingly aren't even in the production pipeline.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> the problem with the mora it aint as good as those phobya ones any rad high fins x inch ===> mora
> The advantage of the mora is that is outside fresh intake ===> inside rads
> 
> 
> ===
> in another note i see some ppl still impatient around this lands... cant get gear?? like everybody in some way or shape is on that boat...


Tried a phobya last year, returned it. High pressure push pull at Max speed wasn’t getting much air flow and actually less performance than an EK 480XE with push pull mounted in my case. Nor are there as many passes in the Phobya. There is more to rads than fin density. Phobya is a good price/performance but that’s where it ends.
Yes the MORA can be placed anywhere you like, including an open window sucking cold air in for winter for chiller like cooling or pushing hot air out during the summer months.
Ill take the MORA3 420 over any Phobya. Phobya = rads welded together single pass.
Count the passes In the MORA. This is top to bottom and every tube is another pass. I didn’t count every tube but you can see 4 per row offset and 19 rows so that’s 76 passes. The MORA is built more like a car radiator


----------



## cyberscott

HyperMatrix said:


> For those of you who ordered "in stock" items with express shipping, how long did it take for them to actually ship it out? The tightening screw on my Aquacomputer Kryos Next CPU block broke last or rather I broke it trying to get maximum mounting pressure.  Since it was a copper block that was going to soak up all my liquid metal and the parts would have to come from Germany and take a month to get here I figured I'd order an Optimus CPU block to match my future Optimus Kingpin block. I assumed I'd be able to get it this week according to the shipping/delivery times listed on the checkout page. So that's what I did last night. But I haven't seen any change in the order status and I guess I'm used to companies shipping out products on the same day when it's in stock and you're paying for express shipping.
> 
> Any guidance on how to set my expectations would be appreciated. If it's not going to arrive this week, then I'm going to have to jerry rig the existing block since the lack of proper pressure is causing 10C higher temps at idle and 20C+ higher temps under full load.


I ordered an in stock "blemished" Optimus AMD Foundation CPU block (Black Aluminum) early on Monday, April 12th. Paid for 3 day shipping. They shipped the same day and per tracking, it should be here by Thursday, April 15th. So, appears in stock items will get shipped same day, depending on when you order and should arrive on time, based on the shipping speed you chose. The new CPU block is going to replace a Corsair XC7 RGB that developed a stripped mounting bolt or back plate threads and doesn't give full mounting pressure. Luckily, temps on the CPU only went up about 6 degrees. I guess I hand tightened a bit too much! 
On the flip side, I ordered an Absolute GPU Water Block for my 3090 FTW3 on March 12th and has remained in "unfulfilled" status since ordering. In full disclosure, I ordered the block with full knowledge that it could take a couple of months to get the GPU block so I set my expectations accordingly.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Lobstar said:


> I'm very sorry to be the bearer of bad news however I wouldn't expect it for a couple months. Their twitter says 3-4 weeks which isn't a good sign because usually when it takes 8 weeks they are advertising 1-2 weeks. They like to make things available for purchase that seemingly aren't even in the production pipeline.


Just checked their twitter. 2-3 weeks for a product that is stated to be in stock on their website. That's really a no no and leads to a guaranteed poor customer experience. And there's really no excuse for it. State it on the product page. There are no indicators on their website that the items are not available for immediate shipping. As much as I try to cut them slack...I really can't think of any reason why their current behavior is in any way acceptable. Not having product available is one thing. Preordered items taking longer to be delivered is one thing. Selling a product as though you have it in stock and then not shipping it out for at least 2-3 weeks? That's a big no no. 

I had no problem waiting all these months for them to get around to making a Kingpin block. But a supposedly in stock item? If it's not shipped out this week I'm going to cancel the order and scrap my plans for getting the Kingpin block from them as well. I'd rather use the AIO cooler or get the lower end EVGA HydroCopper block. To repeat the sentiment many others have expressed...I'd rather go with a less good solution than to support this type of behavior as there is literally 0 excuse for it. Apple likes to ram me in the rear with their prices and I'll take it happily because at least they deliver on their promises. 

Really quite unfortunate to the point where I actually want to bring attention to their behavior and recommend people pass on buying from them. 


Screenshots showing nothing regarding any sort of delay with regard to availability/shipping:


























I'm hoping this 2-3 week delay that was mentioned is wrong. Otherwise the "global shipping issues" they mention on Twitter makes no sense. I've been shipping items into and out of europe and china without issue every month. Prices were a bit higher around the holidays but tapered off by the end of march/beginning of April.




cyberscott said:


> I ordered an in stock "blemished" Optimus AMD Foundation CPU block (Black Aluminum) early on Monday, April 12th. Paid for 3 day shipping. They shipped the same day and per tracking, it should be here by Thursday, April 15th. So, appears in stock items will get shipped same day, depending on when you order and should arrive on time, based on the shipping speed you chose. The new CPU block is going to replace a Corsair XC7 RGB that developed a stripped mounting bolt or back plate threads and doesn't give full mounting pressure. Luckily, temps on the CPU only went up about 6 degrees. I guess I hand tightened a bit too much!
> On the flip side, I ordered an Absolute GPU Water Block for my 3090 FTW3 on March 12th and has remained in "unfulfilled" status since ordering. In full disclosure, I ordered the block with full knowledge that it could take a couple of months to get the GPU block so I set my expectations accordingly.


Any item with expected wait time/noted delays I'm ok with. It is what it is. But I'm really hoping that they're not selling something without declaring that it's not actually available for shipping for 2-3 weeks.


----------



## JustinThyme

The other thing with the MORA3 are all the accessories and customization. Multiple grill choices, dual D5 pump top with mounts for a res, this is an HK 150 mounted. I’m trying it with just push first. Have 9 more Noctua 140mm 2000 rpm industrial fans on hand in the even I want to add pull to it but doubt I’ll need them. There is also an optional wall mount kit for it although you lose the ability to mount fans on both sides if you go that route. I have two boxes of 10ft primochill advanced LRT tubing so I can get it 10 feet from the back of my rig through a PCIE port adaptor with quick connects. Yeah, that should do it. Probably trim it back, depends. I’ll leave it long enough to reach the opposite wall that’s about 9 feet from back of my rig but you can bet it will live in the window right behind my rig in the winter and probably down on the floor where I can aim a window AC at the inlet side during the summer or in the window pushing out so the hot air is going outside. 

do this with a Phobya


----------



## Keith Myers

HyperMatrix said:


> For those of you who ordered "in stock" items with express shipping, how long did it take for them to actually ship it out? The tightening screw on my Aquacomputer Kryos Next CPU block broke last or rather I broke it trying to get maximum mounting pressure.  Since it was a copper block that was going to soak up all my liquid metal and the parts would have to come from Germany and take a month to get here I figured I'd order an Optimus CPU block to match my future Optimus Kingpin block. I assumed I'd be able to get it this week according to the shipping/delivery times listed on the checkout page. So that's what I did last night. But I haven't seen any change in the order status and I guess I'm used to companies shipping out products on the same day when it's in stock and you're paying for express shipping.
> 
> Any guidance on how to set my expectations would be appreciated. If it's not going to arrive this week, then I'm going to have to jerry rig the existing block since the lack of proper pressure is causing 10C higher temps at idle and 20C+ higher temps under full load.


I just ordered the AC Cuplex Kryos Next AM4 offset bracket adapter kit from ModMyMods for my block a week or so ago and it only took 5 days to get to me.

The new brackets were also supplied with 4 new hold down screws which appear identical to the originals. Not sure why they need to be included. 

The brackets are identical to the originals except the notches and holes for fastening to the block are offset by 10mm for the coldplate to have better coverage of the offset dies in the Ryzen 3000/5000 cpus.
Cost me $20.

Might be a quicker solution for you.


----------



## cyberscott

HyperMatrix said:


> Just checked their twitter. 2-3 weeks for a product that is stated to be in stock on their website. That's really a no no and leads to a guaranteed poor customer experience. And there's really no excuse for it. State it on the product page. There are no indicators on their website that the items are not available for immediate shipping. As much as I try to cut them slack...I really can't think of any reason why their current behavior is in any way acceptable. Not having product available is one thing. Preordered items taking longer to be delivered is one thing. Selling a product as though you have it in stock and then not shipping it out for at least 2-3 weeks? That's a big no no.
> 
> I had no problem waiting all these months for them to get around to making a Kingpin block. But a supposedly in stock item? If it's not shipped out this week I'm going to cancel the order and scrap my plans for getting the Kingpin block from them as well. I'd rather use the AIO cooler or get the lower end EVGA HydroCopper block. To repeat the sentiment many others have expressed...I'd rather go with a less good solution than to support this type of behavior as there is literally 0 excuse for it. Apple likes to ram me in the rear with their prices and I'll take it happily because at least they deliver on their promises.
> 
> Really quite unfortunate to the point where I actually want to bring attention to their behavior and recommend people pass on buying from them.
> 
> 
> Screenshots showing nothing regarding any sort of delay with regard to availability/shipping:
> View attachment 2486477
> 
> View attachment 2486480
> 
> View attachment 2486482
> 
> 
> 
> I'm hoping this 2-3 week delay that was mentioned is wrong. Otherwise the "global shipping issues" they mention on Twitter makes no sense. I've been shipping items into and out of europe and china without issue every month. Prices were a bit higher around the holidays but tapered off by the end of march/beginning of April.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any item with expected wait time/noted delays I'm ok with. It is what it is. But I'm really hoping that they're not selling something without declaring that it's not actually available for shipping for 2-3 weeks.


When I ordered the GPU block, they had a pop up message when you first went to their webpage. Is said a 1-2 week wait. I knew this to be a bit untrue as people posting on their orders across different forums averaged more like two months to get their blocks. They only recently took the pop up message down and now have a standing message on top of their webpage stating "WE ARE WORKING HARD TO PROCESS ORDERS! AS A RESULT OF *COVID-19*, PLEASE UNDERSTAND DELIVERY TIMES MAY BE DELAYED." 

From what I've seen, most items that show for purchase are actually not in stock but appears to be a waiting list. They seem to allow more purchases if said item was a cancelled order or they have fulfilled enough of their back orders to allow more to be added to the waiting list. "Blemished" items for sale seem to be in stock and will ship pretty quick. 

I do agree with you that Optimus needs to be a bit more transparent on their order pages. Maybe an estimated fulfillment time frame averaged from past orders so customers will be able to make an informed purchase decision. A simple "ready to ship!" on items that are in stock would be helpful as well.


----------



## Biggu

HyperMatrix said:


> For those of you who ordered "in stock" items with express shipping, how long did it take for them to actually ship it out? The tightening screw on my Aquacomputer Kryos Next CPU block broke last or rather I broke it trying to get maximum mounting pressure.  Since it was a copper block that was going to soak up all my liquid metal and the parts would have to come from Germany and take a month to get here I figured I'd order an Optimus CPU block to match my future Optimus Kingpin block. I assumed I'd be able to get it this week according to the shipping/delivery times listed on the checkout page. So that's what I did last night. But I haven't seen any change in the order status and I guess I'm used to companies shipping out products on the same day when it's in stock and you're paying for express shipping.
> 
> Any guidance on how to set my expectations would be appreciated. If it's not going to arrive this week, then I'm going to have to jerry rig the existing block since the lack of proper pressure is causing 10C higher temps at idle and 20C+ higher temps under full load.


Im going to send you a PM. I changed direction of my build and am no longer going to use my Intel Signature V2 block.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> Just checked their twitter. 2-3 weeks for a product that is stated to be in stock on their website. That's really a no no and leads to a guaranteed poor customer experience. And there's really no excuse for it. State it on the product page. There are no indicators on their website that the items are not available for immediate shipping. As much as I try to cut them slack...I really can't think of any reason why their current behavior is in any way acceptable. Not having product available is one thing. Preordered items taking longer to be delivered is one thing. Selling a product as though you have it in stock and then not shipping it out for at least 2-3 weeks? That's a big no no.
> 
> I had no problem waiting all these months for them to get around to making a Kingpin block. But a supposedly in stock item? If it's not shipped out this week I'm going to cancel the order and scrap my plans for getting the Kingpin block from them as well. I'd rather use the AIO cooler or get the lower end EVGA HydroCopper block. To repeat the sentiment many others have expressed...I'd rather go with a less good solution than to support this type of behavior as there is literally 0 excuse for it. Apple likes to ram me in the rear with their prices and I'll take it happily because at least they deliver on their promises.
> 
> Really quite unfortunate to the point where I actually want to bring attention to their behavior and recommend people pass on buying from them.
> 
> 
> Screenshots showing nothing regarding any sort of delay with regard to availability/shipping:
> 
> View attachment 2486480
> 
> View attachment 2486482
> 
> 
> 
> I'm hoping this 2-3 week delay that was mentioned is wrong. Otherwise the "global shipping issues" they mention on Twitter makes no sense. I've been shipping items into and out of europe and china without issue every month. Prices were a bit higher around the holidays but tapered off by the end of march/beginning of April.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any item with expected wait time/noted delays I'm ok with. It is what it is. But I'm really hoping that they're not selling something without declaring that it's not actually available for shipping for 2-3 weeks.



I ordered a brand new amd cpu block last Thursday, Friday at around 9am label was created and UPS picked it up at around 3ish pm. I took the fastest UPS shipping which was $4 more then the 3-4 day so it was worth it. i think it was 1 day but because of weekend I received it 11 45am yesterday here in Toronto. 
But regardless they won’t see any more money from me,I’m seeing waaaaay to many guys complaining and honestly for the price tag milking Covid isn’t really what I want to see. There’s others out there who somehow manage to get it together. I hate companies that advertise stuff “In stock” take your money and then have fun waiting 2 months. Nope


----------



## HyperMatrix

Keith Myers said:


> I just ordered the AC Cuplex Kryos Next AM4 offset bracket adapter kit from ModMyMods for my block a week or so ago and it only took 5 days to get to me.
> 
> The new brackets were also supplied with 4 new hold down screws which appear identical to the originals. Not sure why they need to be included.
> 
> The brackets are identical to the originals except the notches and holes for fastening to the block are offset by 10mm for the coldplate to have better coverage of the offset dies in the Ryzen 3000/5000 cpus.
> Cost me $20.
> 
> Might be a quicker solution for you.


Just checked and while it's also $20, unfortunately the one for my block/socket type is out of stock. On top of that...there's a $38 shipping charge. And then another $12 for duty/brokerage. So $70 cuz I need a single screw. Haha. I paid $12 to order the parts from Germany with letter mail. I figured I'd then sell it as I would have replaced the entire block with the Optimus one.




cyberscott said:


> When I ordered the GPU block, they had a pop up message when you first went to their webpage. Is said a 1-2 week wait. I knew this to be a bit untrue as people posting on their orders across different forums averaged more like two months to get their blocks. They only recently took the pop up message down and now have a standing message on top of their webpage stating "WE ARE WORKING HARD TO PROCESS ORDERS! AS A RESULT OF *COVID-19*, PLEASE UNDERSTAND DELIVERY TIMES MAY BE DELAYED."


It's a bit disingenuous to use a general comment about _potential_ _delivery times_ for an issue that is actually about not having the items in stock. I ship with the couriers every week. And within hours of putting in a shipment pickup request, they're here and ready to take my package and get it to its destination. So there's no "COVID-19" issue with the couriers shipping things out. There MAY BE issues with them receiving parts that they need. If that's the case...then they are selling items BEFORE they've received it. Because if they already had the items they're selling...it's literally same day pickup from Fedex/UPS/etc...Furthermore...it's not a matter of "may be delayed." It's a matter of them saying on Twitter that there IS going to be a delay of 2-3 weeks for CPU blocks and 3-4 weeks for GPU blocks. That is not a "maybe" situation. It's like me saying "shooting oneself in the head may result in bodily injury or death." No. It may not. It will. 

There are some COVID related issues that I accept. Like their statements about the shipments of Fujipoly thermal pads. But again that has nothing to do with the stock they list for sale on their website. Because as I mentioned...if they actually had the items in stock...couriers would pick it up from them same day. There are no COVID related pickup delays from Fedex/UPS. So if they're taking preorders on items and pretending it's delayed due to COVID...then again...that's very scummy behavior. I'm not sure which of those things it is, but I do know that there is no excuse for what they're doing now.


----------



## itssladenlol

JustinThyme said:


> The other thing with the MORA3 are all the accessories and customization. Multiple grill choices, dual D5 pump top with mounts for a res, this is an HK 150 mounted. I’m trying it with just push first. Have 9 more Noctua 140mm 2000 rpm industrial fans on hand in the even I want to add pull to it but doubt I’ll need them. There is also an optional wall mount kit for it although you lose the ability to mount fans on both sides if you go that route. I have two boxes of 10ft primochill advanced LRT tubing so I can get it 10 feet from the back of my rig through a PCIE port adaptor with quick connects. Yeah, that should do it. Probably trim it back, depends. I’ll leave it long enough to reach the opposite wall that’s about 9 feet from back of my rig but you can bet it will live in the window right behind my rig in the winter and probably down on the floor where I can aim a window AC at the inlet side during the summer or in the window pushing out so the hot air is going outside.
> 
> do this with a Phobya
> 
> View attachment 2486475


I dont want To be that guy but your dual top is upside down which means its restricting Flow.
Heatkiller is known for delivering some of Them flipped the wrong way.


----------



## Mxj1

HyperMatrix said:


> Screenshots showing nothing regarding any sort of delay with regard to availability/shipping:
> View attachment 2486477
> 
> View attachment 2486480
> 
> View attachment 2486482


I ordered a copper sig v2 (because I know they have delays with nickel... and I didn't want to chance it) last weekend, 4/10-11. UPS says it will be here tomorrow.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

@JustinThyme

Like i said i own both and i prefer the phobya it's a better performer . Everything you said with wall mounting etc is possible on any rad if you get creative. I have mine mounted on the wall used a bookshelf island shelving and in the hollow place i have all the cable management. I even have on it a ac wireless remote control to turn it on and off at will  i can use 18 fans if i wanted to it have his own d5/24v pump koolance like real 24v pump using a [email protected] step up for it and used a xbox 360 Power brick for power. With the artic fans at half speed my water delta is 3-4c tops with the 7980xe + vrms and 2x1080tis 

The little one the 1080 is a project i have in mind for the cold months thata why the car radiator fan for outside mounting.

Mora only good thing is like i said the accessory's if you willing to spend on them. Wasted less money on my mods than a single grill of a mora lol. but this is about perf where the mora lacks off...



What you mean this?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Mxj1 said:


> I ordered a copper sig v2 (because I know they have delays with nickel... and I didn't want to chance it) last weekend, 4/10-11. UPS says it will be here tomorrow.


Thanks. This gives me some hope at least.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

I order a blemish amd block as well.... grab what i can on this times... today like a 2+3am it was shipped like at 10am today..

If they dont have it, they dont have it theres nothing we complaining about it is going to resolve. Either wait, grab what you can or buy something else. Its that simple.
They got into high demand in the worst times lol.


----------



## Lobstar

zGunBLADEz said:


> If they dont have it, they dont have it theres nothing we complaining about it is going to resolve.


I'm not sure what this even means. All we're asking for is realistic communication from pre-purchase to receiving the product. Currently the 3090 block is once again available for sale on their website giving the illusion to a prospective buyer they are in stock (I understand as people cancel orders the product goes back 'in stock' on their website). The latest communication we have from them on twitter is 3-4 weeks for GPU blocks. What does that even mean? New orders placed now or that all backlogged orders have another month long wait? Meanwhile many of us are approaching two months without movement on our purchases as excuse after excuse rolls in. Production issues, shipping issues, thermal pads out of stock ... how in good conscious can more product be made available while seemingly none is moving out the door? It's super unlikely they just resolve the entire backlog to make a block available to whatever poor sap plunks down near $400 in good faith they will receive a product in a reasonable amount of time. If people are like me they don't go check a manufacturer's twitter for lead times on products that appear in stock. It's just insane to me that they just keep taking people's money like that.


----------



## Section31

Good news i got my new gpu and its blacklip with 2114 serial number made in taiwan. The replacement i got is an 3090 not the 3080ti rebranded. Machine put back together (modular design helps) but didn’t screw in the coldplate tight enough after cleaning so i can’t run the machine to test anything for another day.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Lobstar said:


> I'm not sure what this even means. All we're asking for is realistic communication from pre-purchase to receiving the product. Currently the 3090 block is once again available for sale on their website giving the illusion to a prospective buyer they are in stock (I understand as people cancel orders the product goes back 'in stock' on their website). The latest communication we have from them on twitter is 3-4 weeks for GPU blocks. What does that even mean? New orders placed now or that all backlogged orders have another month long wait? Meanwhile many of us are approaching two months without movement on our purchases as excuse after excuse rolls in. Production issues, shipping issues, thermal pads out of stock ... how in good conscious can more product be made available while seemingly none is moving out the door? It's super unlikely they just resolve the entire backlog to make a block available to whatever poor sap plunks down near $400 in good faith they will receive a product in a reasonable amount of time. If people are like me they don't go check a manufacturer's twitter for lead times on products that appear in stock. It's just insane to me that they just keep taking people's money like that.


IDK man unless they taking pre-orders to source materials and work in the product ends in those waiting times its the only thing i can think off if thats the case it should be noted in the pre-order.. bcuz that specific block for that specific gpu wouldnt be something i would do just to do as a small company to have in stock... Myself i find them expensive to begin with lol... i got a OCCOOL acetal for my 6800xt it includes backplate and everything and also INCLUDED a bunch of thermal pads as well to bombard the back where is needed.. for less than $140

Now if you waiting for them to restock outside the "preorder" just trying to get ahold of the product and bombarding and calling and what not expecting etas.. etc.. thats a different story.

if they said something it be a issue would be called as "excuses"
if they dont it be an issue as well.. ask for a refund my suggestion


----------



## Section31

So the replacement program seems to work. New Card hitting 450watts and better OC than last one. So far outside of minor junk from new rad, i don't see anymore yellow/green spots. Have to keep eye for next couple days - weeks but hopefully it's just that GTR rad really did corrode for whatever reason and basically its material was leaking into the loop.


----------



## Den-Fi

Got my FTW3 block! Also swapped from a copper to a Nickel TR4 block to match.


----------



## Avacado

Den-Fi said:


> View attachment 2486548
> View attachment 2486549
> 
> 
> Got my FTW3 block! Also swapped from a copper to a Nickel TR4 block to match.


Dibs on your copper TR4 block.


----------



## cyberscott

I did receive my blemished AMD Foundation CPU Block - Acrylic + Black Aluminum / Pro-XE Nickel today. From ordering to my mailbox it took 3 days. 
It is replacing a Corsair XC7 CPU block and will be cooling a Ryzen 9 5950x processor. 

Overall, it is a nice looking block. The only blemishes I could make out were on the top of the tie down bracket. The outer edge of had some light scuff marks to the black aluminum which were hardly noticeable and were pretty much covered up by the screws after installing the block. The Acrylic looked pristine and the fins looked fine and straight. No visible issues with the cold plate, either. 

The water block really blends into my Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Hero Wi-fi and is several steps in quality over the XC7. Well worth the loss of the RGB from the XC7. 
As far as cooling ability, it mirrors pretty much other have said about it. I've seen good 5 to 8c drop in temperature over the XC7. The cooling efficiency also affected my Bykski cooled EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra and it has dropped a few degrees under load. Happy with the purchase!

Now, if Optimus would hurry up and ship my GPU water block that was ordered on March 12th...


----------



## Lobstar

The parts keep piling up as I wait for my block.


----------



## beavis88

Den-Fi said:


> View attachment 2486548
> View attachment 2486549
> 
> 
> Got my FTW3 block! Also swapped from a copper to a Nickel TR4 block to match.


Your order #?


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> @JustinThyme
> 
> Like i said i own both and i prefer the phobya it's a better performer . Everything you said with wall mounting etc is possible on any rad if you get creative. I have mine mounted on the wall used a bookshelf island shelving and in the hollow place i have all the cable management. I even have on it a ac wireless remote control to turn it on and off at will  i can use 18 fans if i wanted to it have his own d5/24v pump koolance like real 24v pump using a [email protected] step up for it and used a xbox 360 Power brick for power. With the artic fans at half speed my water delta is 3-4c tops with the 7980xe + vrms and 2x1080tis
> 
> The little one the 1080 is a project i have in mind for the cold months thata why the car radiator fan for outside mounting.
> 
> Mora only good thing is like i said the accessory's if you willing to spend on them. Wasted less money on my mods than a single grill of a mora lol. but this is about perf where the mora lacks off...
> 
> 
> 
> What you mean this?
> View attachment 2486507


Must be system specific because the Phobya I tried didn’t come close to a single 480XE in the case. Either way getting the rad out of the case improves performance. I’m not mounting mine to anything but the feet and leaving the tubing loose so I can move it. I’d not wall mount it anyhow as for one you lose the ability to have push pull and the other it’s just too close to the wall obstructing airflow. Glad the Phobya works out for you. I tried that first at its cheaper but it didn’t work well for me on my 10980XE and pair of 2080Tis.


----------



## JustinThyme

itssladenlol said:


> I dont want To be that guy but your dual top is upside down which means its restricting Flow.
> Heatkiller is known for delivering some of Them flipped the wrong way.


You are that guy. It’s correct and has already been tested in this configuration. With just the pumps, res and rad with a Flowmeter it was pumping 300L/hr. It’s all in how you plumb it in the end regardless of orientation. So long as in goes to in and out goes to out it’s all good. I’ll post pics when it’s all connected. Thing you aren’t aware of is the res is not the primary. That is a 200mm inside the case with 3 more D5s and the bitspower dual serial pump top I have it there doesnt care how it’s mounted either. Horizontal, front wards, backwards, vertical upside down, just doesn’t matter. So long as the in is the in and the out is the out and the res is higher than the inlet.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> You are that guy. It’s correct and has already been tested in this configuration. With just the pumps, res and rad with a Flowmeter it was pumping 300L/hr. It’s all in how you plumb it in the end regardless of orientation. So long as in goes to in and out goes to out it’s all good. I’ll post pics when it’s all connected. Thing you aren’t aware of is the res is not the primary. That is a 200mm inside the case with 3 more D5s and the bitspower dual serial pump top I have it there doesnt care how it’s mounted either. Horizontal, front wards, backwards, vertical upside down, just doesn’t matter. So long as the in is the in and the out is the out and the res is higher than the inlet.


Upside down is never recommended since the pump can run dry easier
I had to be “that” guy 😁


----------



## Den-Fi

beavis88 said:


> Your order #?


#OP3614 from February 12th.


----------



## Shawnb99

Where is my KPE block???


----------



## Lobstar

Feb 26 order for a gpu block says fulfilled finally!!


----------



## Mxj1

Sig v2 took three days from ordering to received.


----------



## cyberscott

Lobstar said:


> Feb 26 order for a gpu block says fulfilled finally!!


Nice! A 47 day turnaround. I'm on day 33 (ordered March 12th). Maybe Optimus will ship my GPU block in a couple more weeks. 🤔


----------



## LiquidHaus

You guys...

I'm loving all this external radiator talk.

They're my favorite, and I'm all about getting the freshest air that I can to the radiators in the systems that I build. It's why I made my EXT stands to sell.


----------



## Avacado

LiquidHaus said:


> You guys...
> 
> I'm loving all this external radiator talk.
> 
> They're my favorite, and I'm all about getting the freshest air that I can to the radiators in the systems that I build. It's why I made my EXT stands to sell.


Always loved your work Haus.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> You guys...
> 
> I'm loving all this external radiator talk.
> 
> They're my favorite, and I'm all about getting the freshest air that I can to the radiators in the systems that I build. It's why I made my EXT stands to sell.


Great work always. This is ocn where we don't want to think about how much we spend on water cooling. It's much more than we spend on hardware alone.


----------



## Bart

Aaaaaand there goes a perfectly clean pair of underwear, thanks to that photo-bomb of sexiness!!


----------



## Biggu

Welp, I did not win the blemish lottery this time around but hey at least it's a block, and it's in my hands but also it's not crazily noticeable so no biggie. I also kinda am thinking of buying a black bracket instead because it will look nicer in the long run.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, I could see that being about invisible once installed...


----------



## Shawnb99

Biggu said:


> Welp, I did not win the blemish lottery this time around but hey at least it's a block, and it's in my hands but also it's not crazily noticeable so no biggie. I also kinda am thinking of buying a black bracket instead because it will look nicer in the long run.


Likely be able to buff that out yourself if you wanted.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Upside down is never recommended since the pump can run dry easier
> I had to be “that” guy 😁


Yeah not the best of choices but it will still work. 
And you are always that guy LOL


----------



## zGunBLADEz

This is the one i receive i cant find for the life of me whats wrong with it other than 2 lines on the fins that looks are a bit different color/height havent open it yet.. lol seen worst stuff from ek on new stuff.. order got home 1day after been purchased but i live in chicago... Now waiting for them as i want the intel bracket too..

This thing feels like a joke it weights like nothing vs the legendary V2 block but it looks good and very classic question is it will perform like my Koolance 380 lol 





Biggu said:


> Welp, I did not win the blemish lottery this time around but hey at least it's a block, and it's in my hands but also it's not crazily noticeable so no biggie. I also kinda am thinking of buying a black bracket instead because it will look nicer in the long run.


looking at that they should put pictures or describe exactly whats wrong with it tho.. calling something blemish its a wide term..
its not like we were saving 50%$ of the price... theres people who will throw a hissy fit and disregard the $20 bucks they trying to save and get brand new version for a blemish like that. My 2 cents


----------



## Biggu

zGunBLADEz said:


> This is the one i receive i cant find for the life of me whats wrong with it other than 2 lines on the fins that looks are a bit different color/height havent open it yet.. lol seen worst stuff from ek on new stuff.. order got home 1day after been purchased but i live in chicago... Now waiting for them as i want the intel bracket too..
> 
> This thing feels like a joke it weights like nothing vs the legendary V2 block but it looks good and very classic question is it will perform like my Koolance 380 lol
> 
> looking at that they should put pictures or describe exactly whats wrong with it tho.. calling something blemish its a wide term..
> its not like we were saving 50%$ of the price... theres people who will throw a hissy fit and disregard the $20 bucks they trying to save and get brand new version for a blemish like that. My 2 cents


To be honest, Im not upset, its installed and running and you really cannot see it. I knew I was playing a game when ordering (Mainly I wanted to make sure I got it asap and I assumed blemish blocks were already produced. I am with you. I have a signature v2 block sitting on my desk and the first time I picked up the AM4 block I was shocked its so light.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Biggu said:


> To be honest, Im not upset, its installed and running and you really cannot see it. I knew I was playing a game when ordering (Mainly I wanted to make sure I got it asap and I assumed blemish blocks were already produced. I am with you. I have a signature v2 block sitting on my desk and the first time I picked up the AM4 block I was shocked its so light.


if you get "creative" you can create like a groove in there like a / slope or something in both sides top and bottom either dremel or belt sander even a fine file as is aluminum it will look like its a design lol


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

So my friend ordered last Sunday a 8.5 Reservoir (Blemish because they are only in “Stock”) so it’s been 5 complete business days and order hasn’t shipped nor did they answer to his email regarding the order?

Basically took $205usd with shipping and now have fun sitting there and looking at the wall with $205usd out of your pocket. I honestly have no idea at this point what Optimus is thinking? Idk but I have the feeling this whole selling,ordering,shipping,getting products out and especially getting stuff made isn’t for them! It’s one thing not getting your s**t together regarding manufacturing but taking someone’s money and not even some small amount $205usd now do the math how much that is in Canadian dollars and then not shipping it out for over 5 business days? Plus not answering to his order inquiry which is 100% valid after 4 days……Uhhhhh big big pass

Imagine I start selling stuff,you pay me for “IN STOCK” stuff and then I just go dead quite but I’m sitting on your money.
But ofc it’s COVID,the whole world is delivring and stuff is going around just somehow all this is only affecting Optimus but also somehow is avoiding to infect them taking your money that’s working 1000% all day everyday.


----------



## Shawnb99

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> So my friend ordered last Sunday a 8.5 Reservoir (Blemish because they are only in “Stock”) so it’s been 5 complete business days and order hasn’t shipped nor did they answer to his email regarding the order?
> 
> Basically took $205usd with shipping and now have fun sitting there and looking at the wall with $205usd out of your pocket. I honestly have no idea at this point what Optimus is thinking? Idk but I have the feeling this whole selling,ordering,shipping,getting products out and especially getting stuff made isn’t for them! It’s one thing not getting your s**t together regarding manufacturing but taking someone’s money and not even some small amount $205usd now do the math how much that is in Canadian dollars and then not shipping it out for over 5 business days? Plus not answering to his order inquiry which is 100% valid after 4 days……Uhhhhh big big pass
> 
> Imagine I start selling stuff,you pay me for “IN STOCK” stuff and then I just go dead quite but I’m sitting on your money.
> But ofc it’s COVID,the whole world is delivring and stuff is going around just somehow all this is only affecting Optimus but also somehow is avoiding to infect them taking your money that’s working 1000% all day everyday.


As I'm sure you notified your "friend" of your negativity towards Optimus they went into this with eyes wide open knowing there is communication issues and delay from ordering to shipping. If so they nor you have no right to complain and in fact are doing so just to cause drama and act the troll. If they didn't know then you're a terrible friend or a liar.


----------



## Lobstar

Shawnb99 said:


> As I'm sure you notified your "friend" of your negativity towards Optimus they went into this with eyes wide open knowing there is communication issues and delay from ordering to shipping. If so they nor you have no right to complain and in fact are doing so just to cause drama and act the troll. If they didn't know then you're a terrible friend or a liar.


How do you block trolls on this forum? Asking for a 'friend'.


----------



## Biggu

Lobstar said:


> How do you block trolls on this forum? Asking for a 'friend'.


Pretty sure click on that persons name then click ignore.


----------



## Darb

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> So my friend ordered last Sunday a 8.5 Reservoir (Blemish because they are only in “Stock”) so it’s been 5 complete business days and order hasn’t shipped nor did they answer to his email regarding the order?
> 
> Basically took $205usd with shipping and now have fun sitting there and looking at the wall with $205usd out of your pocket. I honestly have no idea at this point what Optimus is thinking? Idk but I have the feeling this whole selling,ordering,shipping,getting products out and especially getting stuff made isn’t for them! It’s one thing not getting your s**t together regarding manufacturing but taking someone’s money and not even some small amount $205usd now do the math how much that is in Canadian dollars and then not shipping it out for over 5 business days? Plus not answering to his order inquiry which is 100% valid after 4 days……Uhhhhh big big pass
> 
> Imagine I start selling stuff,you pay me for “IN STOCK” stuff and then I just go dead quite but I’m sitting on your money.
> But ofc it’s COVID,the whole world is delivring and stuff is going around just somehow all this is only affecting Optimus but also somehow is avoiding to infect them taking your money that’s working 1000% all day everyday.


If you or your friend want to sell any of your very unhappy Optimus gear please let me know.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Shawnb99 said:


> As I'm sure you notified your "friend" of your negativity towards Optimus they went into this with eyes wide open knowing there is communication issues and delay from ordering to shipping. If so they nor you have no right to complain and in fact are doing so just to cause drama and act the troll. If they didn't know then you're a terrible friend or a liar.


It never crossed your pigeon brain that just maybe he never told me about him buying anything from Optimus or that we talked about anything related to watercooling?! But ofc you know exactly how it went,like Optimus or anything related pc is important that we need to talk about that. I just recently got into this and saw everyone talking about some Optimus,saw a couple of Optimus posts how they claim they’re the best etc etc…that’s about it. Saw how they threat customers (not just me half of the guys here ***** about them) and I’m out. So how did you come up to the idea I had any urge to talk with anyone about Optimus,watercooling or anything regarding that? So basically you buy something,then you directly inform every person in your life how it went,**** dude with your assumptions.

I’m not a terrible friend nor a liar,you’re just dumb simple as that!


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Darb said:


> If you or your friend want to sell any of your very unhappy Optimus gear please let me know.


Just because there customer service is garbage,them lying around about basically everything doesn't mean nor did I ever say there stuff is bad and I won’t use the cpu block. 
Why don’t you buy from Optimus if you are so HAPPY with them?Go ahead,if you like paying fir in stock stuff and then waiting weeks or even 2-3 months just go ahead buddy,open up your wallet an be happy


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Lobstar said:


> How do you block trolls on this forum? Asking for a 'friend'.


Apologized to Lobster for my misunderstanding!


----------



## Lobstar

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> This you buddy asking for a friend?
> From bi**ing about them in a 40000 word reply to asking how to block me a “troll”,seriously?


Wow, I was trying to ignore that ShawnB guy but guess I will pull the trigger on you too lol.


----------



## Shawnb99

Lobstar said:


> Wow, I was trying to ignore that ShawnB guy


I thought that was obvious


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Lobstar said:


> Wow, I was trying to ignore that ShawnB guy but guess I will pull the trigger on you too lol.


If that wasn’t intended towards me thenI apologize! I misjudged it and thought you were talking to him about how to block me.

i just came from work and am really tired


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> I thought that was obvious


I think I just peed my pants a little on that one ROTFLMAO!


----------



## JustinThyme

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> If that wasn’t intended towards me thenI apologize! I misjudged it and thought you were talking to him about how to block me.
> 
> i just came from work and am really tired


Its all good, I mean you do only have Forest W's good eye and he is probably half blind in that one too! LOL
I have a few on my ignore list but its s short list. Like 3 members over 5 years. I expect some smack going back and forth but its mostly all good. Its when personal insults start flying that I grow tired of it. Easier for me to keep my cool and just ignore the members that go there so I don't post something I may regret and end up getting banned for it. I actually get a chuckle out of it when they keep posting smack looking for a reaction and I don't see it so they don't get what they were after. I see it when someone else quotes them and calls them out which makes it even funnier.

Most members here are pretty straight up. If they call you out on something its usually a courtesy and not an insult unlike some of the reddit groups and FB groups packed with trolls. I gave up on those places. Dont need it. One would think they would be open to suggestions from someone as "Seasoned" (fancy analogy for old and decrepit) but nope. When you show them the way they just start with flaming.


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> View attachment 2486880
> 
> 
> This is the one i receive i cant find for the life of me whats wrong with it other than 2 lines on the fins that looks are a bit different color/height havent open it yet.. lol seen worst stuff from ek on new stuff.. order got home 1day after been purchased but i live in chicago... Now waiting for them as i want the intel bracket too..
> 
> This thing feels like a joke it weights like nothing vs the legendary V2 block but it looks good and very classic question is it will perform like my Koolance 380 lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looking at that they should put pictures or describe exactly whats wrong with it tho.. calling something blemish its a wide term..
> its not like we were saving 50%$ of the price... theres people who will throw a hissy fit and disregard the $20 bucks they trying to save and get brand new version for a blemish like that. My 2 cents


My blemish was line across the cold plate. However it’s only way to get new coldplate atm outside of buying new block. 

In the end i am just going to have to clean the blocks out every couple months. There isn’t much more i can do about the buildup of particles on the blocks, coming back but way slower buildup. The blocks are just too pretty that you see any imperfections. 

I did get some automotive polsh and microfibre that hopefully helps make the cleaning process easier. Now to buy some finer toothbrush for the coldplate.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC How much longer for the KPE? It's a pain having to fit the AIO radiator in my system


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC How much longer for the KPE? It's a pain having to fit the AIO radiator in my system


Feel your pain. I think they mentioned something about strix being 6-8weeks away then kpe. Heatkiller gone complete silence on its releases, lot of people bugging them on there rads.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Its all good, I mean you do only have Forest W's good eye and he is probably half blind in that one too! LOL
> I have a few on my ignore list but its s short list. Like 3 members over 5 years. I expect some smack going back and forth but its mostly all good. Its when personal insults start flying that I grow tired of it. Easier for me to keep my cool and just ignore the members that go there so I don't post something I may regret and end up getting banned for it. I actually get a chuckle out of it when they keep posting smack looking for a reaction and I don't see it so they don't get what they were after. I see it when someone else quotes them and calls them out which makes it even funnier.
> 
> Most members here are pretty straight up. If they call you out on something its usually a courtesy and not an insult unlike some of the reddit groups and FB groups packed with trolls. I gave up on those places. Dont need it. One would think they would be open to suggestions from someone as "Seasoned" (fancy analogy for old and decrepit) but nope. When you show them the way they just start with flaming.


Yup most here are the older group so we don’t troll etc here. Some people on reddit/facebook really deserve to be trolled honestly. Unfortunately we got some of those order related customer service people that come here trying to stir the pot (inadvertently or advertly). Best to ignore them but do take there points into consideration. You got to make your own critical judgement decisions based on all the information available.


----------



## Kashtan

Sig V2 compatible to LGA1700 socket? Rocket-Lake not very impressive for me, AMD planning to Warhol, Zen3+, i think Rocket to loose new CPU from AMD. So, i see only on Alder-Lake.


----------



## Section31

Kashtan said:


> Sig V2 compatible to LGA1700 socket? Rocket-Lake not very impressive for me, AMD planning to Warhol, Zen3+, i think Rocket to loose new CPU from AMD. So, i see only on Alder-Lake.


No ones knows. We will find out. The talk actually on raptor lake/lunar lake not alderlake. Those are possible monsters and spearheaded by pat gelsinger.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Yup most here are the older group so we don’t troll etc here. Some people on reddit/facebook really deserve to be trolled honestly. Unfortunately we got some of those order related customer service people that come here trying to stir the pot (inadvertently or advertly). Best to ignore them but do take there points into consideration. You got to make your own critical judgement decisions based on all the information available.


Older? You calling me old a decrepit? No wait that’s what I call myself....LOL. Yeah the other groups are generally full of the millennials and genX who are confused about what’s in their drawers when they look down there. I’m traditional in that sense as if you want to have peas and carrots and wear a dress that’s your business and I really don’t care but it doesn’t change the fact of your biological make up which is import when being treated by a Dr. as the two are just not the same. I’m not into and had a friendly discussion in a target when they were among the first to let dress wearing men in the ladies room and vice versa. My then teen age daughter had to go and I saw this person hanging near the restroom entrance and my daughter was scared to go. I’m like go in, check it out and if it’s all good poke your head out and let me know and I’ll make sure no person packing peas and carrots comes in. She goes back in and here comes the person making a beeline for the door I jumped in front of the dress wearing dude with a huge Adam’s apple and said you’ll have to wait a minute. Dude comes back with a voice deeper than mine which is saying something that he has to go. I’m like the men’s room is across the way there. “I identify as a woman”. I’m like well I identify as someone who will break their foot off in your ass if you try to get past me while my daughter is in there. He went back to hanging out in stalking position. Daughter came out and we went and got what we came for and 20 minutes later the perv was still in the same place waiting for someone to go in there. I don’t care what you do until it’s pushed up in my face. That was a huge mistake as I guarantee you that guy was a predator and that’s the door they opened. Now if you want to do it right I’ve been to many countries where restrooms are unisex. There is a common wash area and no stalls. Its all water closets with walls ceiling to floor and a solid lockable door in the WC. But no, it’s more about I wanna go in the ladies room or I wanna go in the men’s room. If we ditched all the labels for everything things would be a lot better. 
Sorry a little off topic there but like there’s anything else to talk about in this thread Other than where’s my sheet. LOL
Oh we’re gonna start a revolution. Puuhlease! You can’t even start a lawn mower! I’ve often wondered how people can camp out and protest for months. If I did go to a protest it would have to be during certain hours because I have a JOB!
Let me 🤐


----------



## Kana Chan

Section31 said:


> No ones knows. We will find out. The talk actually on raptor lake/lunar lake not alderlake. Those are possible monsters and spearheaded by pat gelsinger.


 Maybe it will or maybe not? In their test board, the dimms are next to the mounting holes. It could be like LGA2066's socket design ( 80x80mm vs the 75x75mm in the LGA1200/1151 )?


----------



## Lobstar

JustinThyme said:


> A bunch of non-sense.


Sir this is an overclocking forum.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Older? You calling me old a decrepit? No wait that’s what I call myself....LOL. Yeah the other groups are generally full of the millennials and genX who are confused about what’s in their drawers when they look down there. I’m traditional in that sense as if you want to have peas and carrots and wear a dress that’s your business and I really don’t care but it doesn’t change the fact of your biological make up which is import when being treated by a Dr. as the two are just not the same. I’m not into and had a friendly discussion in a target when they were among the first to let dress wearing men in the ladies room and vice versa. My then teen age daughter had to go and I saw this person hanging near the restroom entrance and my daughter was scared to go. I’m like go in, check it out and if it’s all good poke your head out and let me know and I’ll make sure no person packing peas and carrots comes in. She goes back in and here comes the person making a beeline for the door I jumped in front of the dress wearing dude with a huge Adam’s apple and said you’ll have to wait a minute. Dude comes back with a voice deeper than mine which is saying something that he has to go. I’m like the men’s room is across the way there. “I identify as a woman”. I’m like well I identify as someone who will break their foot off in your ass if you try to get past me while my daughter is in there. He went back to hanging out in stalking position. Daughter came out and we went and got what we came for and 20 minutes later the perv was still in the same place waiting for someone to go in there. I don’t care what you do until it’s pushed up in my face. That was a huge mistake as I guarantee you that guy was a predator and that’s the door they opened. Now if you want to do it right I’ve been to many countries where restrooms are unisex. There is a common wash area and no stalls. Its all water closets with walls ceiling to floor and a solid lockable door in the WC. But no, it’s more about I wanna go in the ladies room or I wanna go in the men’s room. If we ditched all the labels for everything things would be a lot better.
> Sorry a little off topic there but like there’s anything else to talk about in this thread Other than where’s my sheet. LOL
> Oh we’re gonna start a revolution. Puuhlease! You can’t even start a lawn mower! I’ve often wondered how people can camp out and protest for months. If I did go to a protest it would have to be during certain hours because I have a JOB!
> Let me 🤐


Older as more enlightened i would say. Benefits of living in pre-digital era and also growing up with digital era at same time. Funny how gen x and y viewed there generations as rebels as now we say same about millennials.

Most people who are from gen x and y i know share similar opinions as you. So i wouldn’t call us that bad. Put this way, i wouldn’t want my kids playing computer stuff or even ipads till at least closer to high school. Would let them play with traditional toys as much as they like.


----------



## Lobstar

Section31 said:


> Older as more enlightened i would say.


More enlightened and still can't differentiate between sex and gender?


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> Sir this is an overclocking forum.


That’s JustinThyme. We had it worse back in early this year with skrupples.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> More enlightened and still can't differentiate between sex and gender?


That stuff i stay out of. You live life way you want, just don’t bother me about the issue. I ain’t going to judge you on your choices but if you make it an issue, best we don’t interact with eachother.


----------



## dwolvin




----------



## Section31

Anyway, anyone have good suggestions on ultrasonic cleaning devices, i am considering investing in one to clean rads, gpu blocks and cpu blocks. At this point willing to invest if this stuff is more effective at cleaning up watercooling components.


----------



## Lobstar

@Optimus WC When mounting my AM4 block the studs pull out of the backplate. Have a recommendation on how to resolve this? I've tried two backplates (one from my Dark Hero, one from an old TUF X570 board and both have this issue.

Edit:. There is some extra hardware included. I'm guessing that is for just such an occasion.


----------



## Keith Myers

Section31 said:


> Anyway, anyone have good suggestions on ultrasonic cleaning devices, i am considering investing in one to clean rads, gpu blocks and cpu blocks. At this point willing to invest if this stuff is more effective at cleaning up watercooling components.


Any simple jewelry ultrasonic cleaner will do if you don't need to clean any parts bigger than the coldplate. I used a simple 1qt. model I inherited from work. Used a toothbrush first on the microgrooves to dislodge the big stuff and then soaked the coldplate in the ultrasonic cleaner for 15 minutes. Came out pristine and shiny under a strong light even down in the bottom of the grooves under magnification.When I bought it for the workplace to clean fine pitch leadscrews, I think it was $35 on Amazon.


----------



## JustinThyme

Lobstar said:


> Sir this is an overclocking forum.


Yeah, I obviously over clocker your melon :0
You may think its nonsense but no more nonsense than no freaking cards or blocks.


----------



## JustinThyme

Lobstar said:


> More enlightened and still can't differentiate between sex and gender?


I I can differentiate just fine!


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> That stuff i stay out of. You live life way you want, just don’t bother me about the issue. I ain’t going to judge you on your choices but if you make it an issue, best we don’t interact with eachother.


Yeah I dont care until someone makes it my problem.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Jesus, this thread.


----------



## Lobstar

JustinThyme said:


> I I can differentiate just fine!


Ah, so you just choose to be hateful and scared. Gotcha.  That ignore function is sure coming in handy to clean up these idiots.


----------



## KedarWolf

Lobstar said:


> Ah, so you just choose to be hateful and scared. Gotcha.  That ignore function is sure coming in handy to clean up these idiots.


Older peeps have no excuse for being transphobic and/or racist. Or any crap like that. Being 'old-fashioned' is just an excuse, what they tell themselves for their hateful ways.

I turned 60 this year and I embrace every culture and way. I understand that a person can be spiritually male or female and be trapped in the wrong gender's body.

So, no one gets a pass from me for being old-fashioned, a bigot is a bigot.


----------



## Section31

Talking about future optimus products is more fun thing imo. That and them improving on order times.

Optimus and Techn definitely had effect on the big players like ekwb and even aquacomputer and heatkiller. I don’t think they would have moved up there timeline for new products line replacement and innovation when some of the new players giving what we want, which is better performance less rgb. Look at ekwb watercooled backplates, case improvement option, I think they noticed optimus.


----------



## Wihglah

Can we get an admin in here?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Section31 said:


> My blemish was line across the cold plate. However it’s only way to get new coldplate atm outside of buying new block.
> 
> In the end i am just going to have to clean the blocks out every couple months. There isn’t much more i can do about the buildup of particles on the blocks, coming back but way slower buildup. The blocks are just too pretty that you see any imperfections.
> 
> I did get some automotive polsh and microfibre that hopefully helps make the cleaning process easier. Now to buy some finer toothbrush for the coldplate.


wathever works go ahead... me in particular im in the hunt and looking for a concentrate 25/75 hopefully that will not freeze under lets say -20f tops maybe -35ish pushing it that dont eat the o-rings/plastic... as i will need to make my whole loop with that coolant and im carrying a hefty amount of water bcuz of the size of this loop.. right now is about almost a gallon worth of liquid as i have my chiller, my external rad plus 25ish feet of tubing..Plus im about to add one of this babys into it


Spoiler















to use for a type of "battery" to save cycles on the water chiller for example also to have the whole water temp takes longer to reach equilibrium.. that would be added in my existing loop plus the 1080 phobya for outside "ambient" cooling which in chicago can get pretty chilly.. The idea is to use my arduino dew controller i made to turn the car radiator fan on/off when needed this would be the relay for the chiller as well... or even bypass it like tha... i like that car radiator fan bcuz the cfm and the pressure it throws and it goes both ways push or pull without moving it by just switching the P/N cables im going to add one of this as well to my chiller .. .. can get to be totally "fanless" or semi fanless only pump will be on circulating inside where rig is at instead lol.. depends on how it ends like everything.. have more upgrades for my main 1260 rad that green spinner is driving me nuts and i got me some koolance qdc3 to further optimize the setup.. between other little things.. some neoprene for the 5 gallon as well..

This type of setup is all in parallel.. can be bypass it or close at will turning the pump off everything has his own 24v koolance pump and reservoir so nothing is dependant of nothing.. parallel and water pressure is a blessing lol


----------



## Section31

Wihglah said:


> Can we get an admin in here?


Rarely has an admin come in here. This never was an official optimus thread. Optimus themselves use the twitter account more than here. We suggested they create one too but nothing happened. Sometimes this thread goes little crazy about optimus lack of customer service and why my order isn’t here yet.


----------



## JustinThyme

Lobstar said:


> Ah, so you just choose to be hateful and scared. Gotcha.  That ignore function is sure coming in handy to clean up these idiots.


You might want to take a long hard look in the mirror.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Rarely has an admin come in here. This never was an official optimus thread. Optimus themselves use the twitter account more than here. We suggested they create one too but nothing happened. Sometimes this thread goes little crazy about optimus lack of customer service and why my order isn’t here yet.


Yeah it started off OK with just the CPU blocks and was OK. Now is just everyone complaining about not getting their orders and 50/50 off topic.


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> Anyway, anyone have good suggestions on ultrasonic cleaning devices, i am considering investing in one to clean rads, gpu blocks and cpu blocks. At this point willing to invest if this stuff is more effective at cleaning up watercooling components.


Let me know how that works out. I have a stack of new hwlabs gtx rads I'd be very willing to pay a fee to have cleaned out as well. 

I think something like this would work for up to 360 rads. It would have to be tilted in at an angle though.

@Optimus WC - when you ultrasonic'd the GTX rad, did you dunk the entire thing into the container? Or did you somehow just fill the internal ports?

CO-Z 6L Professional Ultrasonic Cleaner





CO-Z 6L Professional Ultrasonic Cleaner with Digital Timer&Heater for Cleaning Jewelry Glasses Watch Dentures Small Parts Circuit Board Dental Instrument, Commercial Electric Ultrasound Clean Machine: Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific


CO-Z 6L Professional Ultrasonic Cleaner with Digital Timer&Heater for Cleaning Jewelry Glasses Watch Dentures Small Parts Circuit Board Dental Instrument, Commercial Electric Ultrasound Clean Machine: Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.ca


----------



## Lobstar

zGunBLADEz said:


> wathever works go ahead... me in particular im in the hunt and looking for a concentrate 25/75 hopefully that will not freeze under lets say -20f tops maybe -35ish pushing it that dont eat the o-rings/plastic... as i will need to make my whole loop with that coolant and im carrying a hefty amount of water bcuz of the size of this loop.. right now is about almost a gallon worth of liquid as i have my chiller, my external rad plus 25ish feet of tubing..Plus im about to add one of this babys into it


I bought 5L of concentrated Mayhems Nuke XT-1 which would allow -35c @ 46% concentration with water. I can't find the same volume online any more but it would work out for you just fine.









Mayhems XT-1 Nuke Coolant Concentrate - 5L


Mayhems XT1 Nuke is a new formulation of Non Toxic Ethylene Glycol that can be used in pressurised environments up to 390°C and down to –50 °C / -58 °F. The formulation will last over twice as long as our existing XT1 and has much more resilient biocides and inhibitors. This makes it more...




www.performance-pcs.com


----------



## Lobstar

Finally!!


----------



## Sap

Lobstar said:


> Finally!!
> View attachment 2487198


Enjoy! What's your order number?


----------



## Sir Beregond

Lobstar said:


> Finally!!
> View attachment 2487198


Damn that's a nice looking block.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> Finally!!
> View attachment 2487198


Hope you never have to clean it. However it's an well designed block (even for maintenance).


----------



## JustinThyme

Lobstar said:


> Finally!!


Looks good...Let us know the performance attributes.


----------



## Shawnb99

So how close are the KPE blocks? The Hydrocopper model is said to be out this Friday so you better hurry up.


----------



## Biggu

Shawnb99 said:


> So how close are the KPE blocks? The Hydrocopper model is said to be out this Friday so you better hurry up.


I think they said on Twitter at the begining of april Strix blocks are 6-8 weeks out and KPE will be week behind those. So id say end of may before we realistically hear anything


----------



## Shawnb99

Biggu said:


> I think they said on Twitter at the begining of april Strix blocks are 6-8 weeks out and KPE will be week behind those. So id say end of may before we realistically hear anything


Yeah I was hoping they made more progress. Looks like I’ll be buying both blocks


----------



## Biggu

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah I was hoping they made more progress. Looks like I’ll be buying both blocks


Honestly same here. I finally pulled the trigger and built a new PC and I hate having things on air. Biggest concern for me is way back when I did the spacing on the mid plate for hydrocopper input / outlet and now none of the cards use that. Ive got a brand new midplate for the caselabs but since that is a rare commodity im not drilling holes in that. My thought process right now is to just cut a wide rectangle in the case for pass through. Then have a cover CNC'd that integrates the waterfittings and a cable comb and bolt that in. That way when I make a change I just make a new plate. Side note, people with 5950x what are your idle temps with the block?


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Honestly same here. I finally pulled the trigger and built a new PC and I hate having things on air. Biggest concern for me is way back when I did the spacing on the mid plate for hydrocopper input / outlet and now none of the cards use that. Ive got a brand new midplate for the caselabs but since that is a rare commodity im not drilling holes in that. My thought process right now is to just cut a wide rectangle in the case for pass through. Then have a cover CNC'd that integrates the waterfittings and a cable comb and bolt that in. That way when I make a change I just make a new plate. Side note, people with 5950x what are your idle temps with the block?


ocn is the home for most caselabs owners. Nice build


----------



## itssladenlol

Zero communication or Updates since two weeks on Twitter/Homepage.
Customer Service non existant.
Its Almost 6 weeks since i ordered and now they have gone silent for more than 10 days.
Probably still got no pads to ship out FTW3 Blocks


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> ocn is the home for most caselabs owners. Nice build


TY and no doubt. Not going to lie ive had this case for so long ive grown kinda bored of it but everytime I look around for something else I just cant find anything id be fine to settle on. To be honest what I really want to do is to move my PC off my desk and rack mount it but Im not sure how I feel about running everything remote to it.


----------



## JustinThyme

Id probably be in a CaseLabs Case now if they hadn't gone under blaming it on steel tarrifs coming out of China. Plenty of other places to get sheet steel. Dont know if they were outsourcing the stamping and press braking too and just assembling. I spent a lot of time on the fence with it because is was a very complex ordering endeavor. Unless you know the cases and the parts inside and out its about impossible to get what you want on the first try. You have a shell then everything else was an extra part. I was a click away from ordering a "prebuilt" but it would have still needed more parts to set it up how I wanted. 
Im happy with my Phanteks Enthoo Elite, it was on the pricy side but it came with every part for every conceivable configuration you could ever want. All in the massive shipping crate it came in. 

As for rack mount either you would have to have the rack in close proximity or you would lose the high end graphics doing a remote connection to it in a basement or closet with a lesser dumb terminal. Tried that and didn't work out well. CPU still did its thing but for GPU/s it didnt matter what was in it, limited to what was in the dumb terminal. I was also half a second away from a TT Core P7 and wall mounting it. Just no wall space close enough. The perfect spot how my L shaped desk is laid out would have been the wall with a window in the middle of it. Then the thought of dust just pushed me away.


----------



## Section31

itssladenlol said:


> Zero communication or Updates since two weeks on Twitter/Homepage.
> Customer Service non existant.
> Its Almost 6 weeks since i ordered and now they have gone silent for more than 10 days.
> Probably still got no pads to ship out FTW3 Blocks


Parts shortage is ugly. Lot of us are asking heatkiller whats the hold up on there new internal rads. No response either from them.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Parts shortage is ugly. Lot of us are asking heatkiller whats the hold up on there new internal rads. No response either from them.


Man even the nvme drives I was looking at jumped up like $60 at Micro Center. Sigh. I should have just bought them last week.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Keith Myers

Sir Beregond said:


> Man even the nvme drives I was looking at jumped up like $60 at Micro Center. Sigh. I should have just bought them last week.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


New Chia crypto mining on hard drives/SSD's is to blame for storage price increases.


----------



## mouacyk

Somebody out there really hates this hobby.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Keith Myers said:


> New Chia crypto mining on hard drives/SSD's is to blame for storage price increases.


Yeah, heard about that. Seems everyone is running on drives now as they are all going low on stock now.

Edit: And just looked, now that price hike is like $100.


----------



## HyperMatrix

So KPE block by EVGA is releasing Friday. But....if it's anything like the FTW3 Hydro Copper block, it's going to be garbage (I bought and tested the FTW3 HC and it performed maybe a few degrees better than my AIO cooler with upgraded fans). Furthermore...it appears to be available in Copper only. Meaning the annoyance of having to open and re-apply liquid metal a few times before it settles due to the liquid metal bonding with the copper. And....the price is actually too high imo. $300 for a mediocre block. On the flip side...it's actually available for purchase. Optimus block is at least 2 months out and even then availability/shipping date is an unknown with them based on their history.

Really unfortunate. I 100% would prefer the Optimus KPE block. And I think $300 for the block EVGA is selling is a ripoff. Especially since it DOES NOT come with a backplate either. Meaning if you're planning to mount a ram block to the backplate directly for additional cooling, you'll have to drill into the existing back plate (or use rubber bands or other fasteners). This means voiding the warranty as the card would have to be returned in the same condition it was sent to you.

I'm sure the KPE block EVGA has will sell out immediately as people are left with few choices and it's annoying dealing with an AIO in an otherwise complete custom loop. But it's looking like a bad block with poor performance like the FTW3 model. Has no backplate. Uses a copper coldplate. And is still the most expensive block out there for any 3090 card. At $200-$250 I would have considered it. But I refuse to pay $300 for that mediocre block. Good luck to those of you who spend the money to grab one.

The listing for the block on EVGA's website says "The K|NGP|N Hydro Copper Waterblock is the perfect waterblock for the EVGA GeForce RTX 3090 K|NGP|N graphics card." That is false. It is not the perfect waterblock for the Kingpin card. It's the only waterblock for the Kingpin card. The block itself is trash. No offense. But you invite that criticism when you price a mediocre block like that.

Update: Correction. The cold plate appears to be nickel plated after all.


----------



## cyberscott

I received the following email from Optimus. At least they are trying to give us some kind of time frame for our orders...

========
Optimus Water Cooling
Hello!



The team really apologizes for the delay in getting you your GPU waterblock! Issues with sourcing, material availability, and more have continued to be challenging during these crazy times. Even though we make the blocks in house, we rely on lots of partners -- from specialty acrylic to Fujipoly thermal pads -- and everyone is having issues. 



Here are the latest shipping dates based on when you ordered. We're actually beating these expected ship dates, but we want to keep these estimates on the safe side in case more unexpected issues pop up. 



MARCH 3-11 ORDERS: ships now through week of 5/2
MARCH 12-18 ORDERS: ships week of 5/2 through week of 5/10
MARCH 19-25 ORDERS: ships week of 5/10 through week of 5/17
MARCH 26- APRIL 1 ORDERS: ships week of 5/17 through week of 5/24
APRIL 9-15 ORDERS: ships week of 5/24 through week of 6/10

If these times don't work for you, let us know and we'll refund your order asap. Thank you for hanging in there and understanding!!
Click here to edit it or highlight the text to style it
Twitter
Sent from Optimus Water Cooling

Unsubscribe | Manage preferences


----------



## Sir Beregond

HyperMatrix said:


> So KPE block by EVGA is releasing Friday. But....if it's anything like the FTW3 Hydro Copper block, it's going to be garbage (I bought and tested the FTW3 HC and it performed maybe a few degrees better than my AIO cooler with upgraded fans).


Wow really? That's pretty bad.


----------



## Shawnb99

HyperMatrix said:


> So KPE block by EVGA is releasing Friday. But....if it's anything like the FTW3 Hydro Copper block, it's going to be garbage (I bought and tested the FTW3 HC and it performed maybe a few degrees better than my AIO cooler with upgraded fans). Furthermore...it appears to be available in Copper only. Meaning the annoyance of having to open and re-apply liquid metal a few times before it settles due to the liquid metal bonding with the copper. And....the price is actually too high imo. $300 for a mediocre block. On the flip side...it's actually available for purchase. Optimus block is at least 2 months out and even then availability/shipping date is an unknown with them based on their history.
> 
> Really unfortunate. I 100% would prefer the Optimus KPE block. And I think $300 for the block EVGA is selling is a ripoff. Especially since it DOES NOT come with a backplate either. Meaning if you're planning to mount a ram block to the backplate directly for additional cooling, you'll have to drill into the existing back plate (or use rubber bands or other fasteners). This means voiding the warranty as the card would have to be returned in the same condition it was sent to you.
> 
> I'm sure the KPE block EVGA has will sell out immediately as people are left with few choices and it's annoying dealing with an AIO in an otherwise complete custom loop. But it's looking like a bad block with poor performance like the FTW3 model. Has no backplate. Uses a copper coldplate. And is still the most expensive block out there for any 3090 card. At $200-$250 I would have considered it. But I refuse to pay $300 for that mediocre block. Good luck to those of you who spend the money to grab one.
> 
> The listing for the block on EVGA's website says "The K|NGP|N Hydro Copper Waterblock is the perfect waterblock for the EVGA GeForce RTX 3090 K|NGP|N graphics card." That is false. It is not the perfect waterblock for the Kingpin card. It's the only waterblock for the Kingpin card. The block itself is trash. No offense. But you invite that criticism when you price a mediocre block like that.
> 
> Update: Correction. The cold plate appears to be nickel plated after all.
> View attachment 2487468


Yeah I'm not sure what to do. Not looking forward to paying $300 for this block only to turn around and pay Optimus more for theirs


----------



## criskoe

@Optimus WC 
Question for the guys that have a optimus FTW block. Are all the (18) screws flush with the acrylic on the front of your card?? Just got myn and it’s all over the place. Some are counter sunk. Some are flush and some stick out. A few of them stick out quite bit too. One of them sticks out at least a mm. It’s a minor detail but makes it difficult to gauge if the top is mounted evenly. Reefing on the screws won’t help cause when I flip the screw and insert just the head. The head is still not flush and is bottomed out. Seems my acrylic top hole depth varies. Strange considering these things are machine made. Block will most likely function fine. Just a detail I would of thought optimus would not have overlooked.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah I'm not sure what to do. Not looking forward to paying $300 for this block only to turn around and pay Optimus more for theirs


I'll be waiting for the optimus block, not bothering with the evga one. However, I already have a ftw3 w/optimus block so I'm fine with waiting this thing out. If I didn't have this and the KPE was my only 3090 I would probably buy the EVGA one just to get it into the loop and not have to deal with loud fans.


----------



## Wihglah

criskoe said:


> Question for the guys that have a optimus FTW block. Are all the (18) screws flush with the acrylic on the front of your card?? Just got myn and it’s all over the place. Some are counter sunk. Some are flush and some stick out. A few of them stick out quite bit too. One of them sticks out at least a mm. It’s a minor detail but makes it difficult to gauge if the top is mounted evenly. Reefing on the screws won’t help cause when I flip the screw and insert just the head. The head is still not flush and is bottomed out. Seems my acrylic top hole depth varies. Strange considering these things are machine made. Block will most likely function fine. Just a detail I would of thought optimus would not have overlooked.


You do realise the screws are not all the same length? You have to put them in the right holes. Sounds like you have some long screws in short threads.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

well its not a mediocre block the 3090 is another 480/580 gpu lol it will need a well designed block bcuz of the wattage

*fermi is back baby!!!!!!*


That thing is an abomination @ stock is even worst unlocked lol

wonder how long they going to last in the long run at those mem temps tho

im sorry but idk where nvidia call this energy efficient..

but i guess most ppl with 3090 werent by choice at this current gpu prices.. is either [email protected] or 3090 200-400 more might as well at that price "budget" lol
i seen people with those 3090s around like it aint a joke....


----------



## Biggu

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah I'm not sure what to do. Not looking forward to paying $300 for this block only to turn around and pay Optimus more for theirs


I mean, you could do the consumer thing and stick it to EVGA and not buy the product and then just wait for Optimus? I mean you have waited this long whats another month ish? Ive wanted a waterblock on my strix since January when I bought it but I'm not settling for anything other than Optimus. No reason to spend extra money and do extra work just so it can be watercooled.


----------



## Shawnb99

Biggu said:


> I dont get what your post has to do about Optimus block.


We are allowed to talk about things other then Optimus here aren't we? I don't know what's allowed on here anymore


----------



## Biggu

Shawnb99 said:


> We are allowed to talk about things other then Optimus here aren't we? I don't know what's allowed on here anymore


Errr that was from a previous post a long time ago. Im still getting used to this new layout since I haven't been on here much since the upgrade. Fixed it =)


----------



## Shawnb99

Biggu said:


> Errr that was from a previous post a long time ago. Im still getting used to this new layout since I haven't been on here much since the upgrade. Fixed it =)


No worries. I'm a little sensitive atm. It's hard having "fans"


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Question for the guys that have a optimus FTW block. Are all the (18) screws flush with the acrylic on the front of your card?? Just got myn and it’s all over the place. Some are counter sunk. Some are flush and some stick out. A few of them stick out quite bit too. One of them sticks out at least a mm. It’s a minor detail but makes it difficult to gauge if the top is mounted evenly. Reefing on the screws won’t help cause when I flip the screw and insert just the head. The head is still not flush and is bottomed out. Seems my acrylic top hole depth varies. Strange considering these things are machine made. Block will most likely function fine. Just a detail I would of thought optimus would not have overlooked.


The long ones go along the top end and the bottom are the shorter ones.


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> well its not a mediocre block the 3090 is another 480/580 gpu lol it will need a well designed block bcuz of the wattage
> 
> *fermi is back baby!!!!!!*
> 
> 
> That thing is an abomination @ stock is even worst unlocked lol
> 
> wonder how long they going to last in the long run at those mem temps tho
> 
> im sorry but idk where nvidia call this energy efficient..
> 
> but i guess most ppl with 3090 werent by choice at this current gpu prices.. is either [email protected] or 3090 200-400 more might as well at that price "budget" lol
> i seen people with those 3090s around like it aint a joke....


I only got it out of easy availaibility though had i waited till December/January i would have gotten and 3080FTW3 for sure. However in current climate, I'm holding onto it unless i can get 3080ti card and resell the 3090 and comes ahead cash wise.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> I mean, you could do the consumer thing and stick it to EVGA and not buy the product and then just wait for Optimus? I mean you have waited this long whats another month ish? Ive wanted a waterblock on my strix since January when I bought it but I'm not settling for anything other than Optimus. No reason to spend extra money and do extra work just so it can be watercooled.


I was hesistant with Optimus too as i preferred Heatkiller New Design. Once I got in person and installed the block, etc (even despite the cleaning), it was well worth the money spent on it.


----------



## criskoe

Wihglah said:


> You do realise the screws are not all the same length? You have to put them in the right holes. Sounds like you have some long screws in short threads.


so what you are telling me optimus doesn’t know how to put there own block together?? The block is like this coming out of the box. Not sure what your talking about Different length screws. I took out one of the screws that stuck out and one that is countersunk and they are exactly the same length.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> The long ones go along the top end and the bottom are the shorter ones.


?????

i randomly just pulled 8 of the 18 screws with different mounting depths. Some flush some counter sunk and some that stick out. The screws are all the same length. if I move the screw it still sticks out on the same hole.

im talking about the screws that hold the big acrylic piece to the copper. Are you?


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> ?????
> 
> i randomly just pulled 8 of the 18 screws with different mounting depths. Some flush some counter sunk and some that stick out. The screws are all the same length. if I move the screw it still sticks out on the same hole.


There are two lengths if you examine carefully (for the front plate). 5 Long and rest slightly shorter. I used the five longer screws up top (the short screws wouldn't work) - so terminal side not bottom. Then apply little pressure then thread one of the shorter ones in. Tighten it up then then rest are easy tighten job.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> There are two lengths if you examine carefully (for the front plate). 5 Long and rest slightly shorter. I used the five longer screws up top (the short screws wouldn't work) - so terminal side not bottom. Then apply little pressure then thread one of the shorter ones in. Tighten it up then then rest are easy tighten job.


 
your talking about the screws that hold the big acrylic piece to the copper right??


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> There are two lengths if you examine carefully (for the front plate). 5 Long and rest slightly shorter. I used the five longer screws up top (the short screws wouldn't work) - so terminal side not bottom. Then apply little pressure then thread one of the shorter ones in. Tighten it up then then rest are easy tighten job.


I just removed all 18 screws and they are all the same length. I don’t know man. Unless optimus has screwed up and Installed wrong screws. we can’t be talking about the same thing.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> I just removed all 18 screws and they are all the same length. I don’t know man. Unless optimus has screwed up and Installed wrong screws. we can’t be talking about the same thing.
> 
> View attachment 2487588


Who knows but as long as it works thats all that matter. I'm referring to the big acrylic plate correct.


----------



## Keith Myers

No, you are both talking about different things. He was referring to the different length mounting screws to mount the block to the gpu. Not the screws in the block itself.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> Who knows but as long as it works thats all that matter. I'm referring to the big acrylic plate correct.


hmmm. Weird. I sent a message to optimus before posting here asking about it to see what they would say. I had to reach out to them anyways cause the foundation block they sent me is Scratched up right out the box And I did not buy a blemish block. 

Side note. What size Hex bit did you use For those front screws. My iFixit 2.5 Hex works but feels a little loose and 3 is too big. I don’t want to strip it.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> hmmm. Weird. I sent a message to optimus before posting here asking about it to see what they would say. I had to reach out to them anyways cause the foundation block they sent me is Scratched up right out the box And I did not buy a blemish block.
> 
> Side note. What size Hex bit did you use For those front screws. My iFixit 2.5 Hex works but feels a little loose and 3 is too big. I don’t want to strip it.


I used the allen keys provided by Optimus.


----------



## criskoe

Keith Myers said:


> No, you are both talking about different things. He was referring to the different length mounting screws to mount the block to the gpu. Not the screws in the block itself.


I’m talking about these.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> I used the allen keys provided by Optimus.


 Weird I didn’t get an Allen key of that size with it. All I got was a tiny ass one for the cold plate. And a security one for the mounting screws.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Weird I didn’t get an Allen key of that size with it. All I got was a tiny ass one for the cold plate. And a security one for the mounting screws.
> View attachment 2487591


There are three allen key, the two pictured and third at way bottom of the box. Take out the protective side package and you will see it. It's also the same allen key as ekwb/heatkiller/etc uses for there g1/4 plugs included with there reservoir/etc.

I found it myself after looking around. However I had allen keys leftover from heatkiller and ekwb stuff so i was covered. The silver one is for all screws. The black one is for cold plate and the big one at bottom is for the stop plugs.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> There are three allen key, the two pictured and third at way bottom of the box. Take out the protective side package and you will see it. It's also the same allen key as ekwb/heatkiller/etc uses for there g1/4 plugs included with there reservoir/etc.
> 
> I found it myself after looking around. However I had allen keys leftover from heatkiller and ekwb stuff so i was covered. The silver one is for all screws. The black one is for cold plate and the big one at bottom is for the stop plugs.


i see. I found the big one at the bottom of the box.. thanks. 

But The silver T8 torx Allen key is for all the mounting screws. The front acrylic screws arnt torx screws. They are hex screws. I mean if you stick it in there it fits but it’s not the right head for the job. Run a risk of stripping the head using it.

also just noticed the terminal screws use a slightly bigger hex head aswell.


----------



## Keith Myers

criskoe said:


> Side note. What size Hex bit did you use For those front screws. My iFixit 2.5 Hex works but feels a little loose and 3 is too big. I don’t want to strip it.


Pretty sure the screws are all SAE and not metric.


----------



## criskoe

Keith Myers said:


> Pretty sure the screws are all SAE and not metric.


I see. This is most likely my problem. My ifixit kit seems to only have metric HEX bits. Looks like its most likely a 7/64 Hex. The 3 terminal one are much bigger so not sure.
@Optimus WC mind clarifying the exact size proper Hex bit for the terminal and main acrylic plate please.


----------



## onMute

Keith Myers said:


> Pretty sure the screws are all SAE and not metric.


+1 Optimus uses SAE sizes


----------



## Lobstar

criskoe said:


> I’m talking about these.
> View attachment 2487590


I just felt around on mine. It feels like some are ever so slightly higher/lower than others. The important part would be that they are all torqued equally. Nothing feels loose. It's been holding water for a few days now.

I guess I should report back on performance. I am not getting much higher clocks (stable at about 2205 in some benches but games is more like 2175/2160) at 25C water. Card holds nicely around 35C under that load. Water temp going up to 28C the card continues to sit at about 36/37C. I was hoping for a bit more overclocking on this revised card based on how chilled air from the window allowed such great OCing but I'll take what I got. I'm using Kryonaut Extreme.


----------



## criskoe

Lobstar said:


> I just felt around on mine. It feels like some are ever so slightly higher/lower than others. The important part would be that they are all torqued equally. Nothing feels loose. It's been holding water for a few days now.


Cool thanks for checking yours. Yeah functionally everything should be fine. All my screws catch threads which is the most important part so yeah. When unboxing and checking the block over I noticed One of them was sticking out pretty far and compared to the other ones it looked like it wasn’t even tightened down but after trying, it won’t tighten anymore which made me examine all of them closely. Oh well. 

Hopefully Optimus will respond to my email tho about the scratched up foundation block soon.


----------



## Shawnb99

Biggu said:


> I mean, you could do the consumer thing and stick it to EVGA and not buy the product and then just wait for Optimus? I mean you have waited this long whats another month ish? Ive wanted a waterblock on my strix since January when I bought it but I'm not settling for anything other than Optimus. No reason to spend extra money and do extra work just so it can be watercooled.


It's Optimus so a month is more like 2-3 months.


----------



## criskoe

I know Optimus includes a small tube of KPX with their blocks and recommends it. I assume that some of you guys may have different preferred pastes tho and am interested in hearing what you guys go to? Or just stick with the KPX?

I got a bunch of MX4. NTH2 and Kryonaut. And now these tubes of KPX.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

im just still wondering why optimus is using phillips screws heads on the coldplate on their cpu blocks instead of torx screws.. All 3 blocks i own use phillips screws..
I mention this a couple of times back in this topic they strip so easy vs torx or allen for that matter "wear & tear" pita when you cant find that perfect phillips screwdriver...



criskoe said:


> I know Optimus includes a small tube of KPX with their blocks and recommends it. I assume that some of you guys may have different preferred pastes tho and am interested in hearing what you guys go to? Or just stick with the KPX?
> 
> I got a bunch of MX4. NTH2 and Kryonaut. And now these tubes of KPX.



the kp is a good paste they use to give you another so-so brand before so that is very sweet that they include that... way better than most other company's give you for thermal paste included..

I use alot nh1 cheap and it performs you cant beat 10grams for 15$... have no problems with it and it cools good doesnt dry did i say it performs and is cheap??
Kryonaut i find expensive and not so different than nh1 specially not a fan of their Liquid Metal as it dries too quick... I started using Thermalright liquid metal the virgin application i used on my pure copper ihs on my 7980xe still going on.. It still wet and it hasnt "mix" "created the layer yet" when it bonds with copper yet.. this is more than 1yr later after the fact...Der8uer liquid metal would be dry already by now LIKE DRY DRY.... im using on the ihs under and in top with the optimus v2.


Btw, got a email asking my question for the intel bracket and got a response yesterday (it took a week) to let me know they were stocking the satin versions of this bracket... so i went and got me the intel bracket for my foundation block to have both brackets.. now @Optimus WC what about at all nickel top for it??


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> so what you are telling me optimus doesn’t know how to put there own block together?? The block is like this coming out of the box. Not sure what your talking about Different length screws. I took out one of the screws that stuck out and one that is countersunk and they are exactly the same length.


I think there’s too much confusion 
The 18 screws that hold the acrylic to the gpu block are same length. Screw them in tight. 

The screws to mount on the backplate to secure the whole acrylic plus gpu block are actually different length per the instructions posted by optimus.

Overall, its still an superior mounting mechanism in my opinion.


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> im just still wondering why optimus is using phillips screws heads on the coldplate on their cpu blocks instead of torx screws.. All 3 blocks i own use phillips screws..
> I mention this a couple of times back in this topic they strip so easy vs torx or allen for that matter "wear & tear" pita when you cant find that perfect phillips screwdriver...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the kp is a good paste they use to give you another so-so brand before so that is very sweet that they include that... way better than most other company's give you for thermal paste included..
> 
> I use alot nh1 cheap and it performs you cant beat 10grams for 15$... have no problems with it and it cools good doesnt dry did i say it performs and is cheap??
> Kryonaut i find expensive and not so different than nh1 specially not a fan of their Liquid Metal as it dries too quick... I started using Thermalright liquid metal the virgin application i used on my pure copper ihs on my 7980xe still going on.. It still wet and it hasnt "mix" "created the layer yet" when it bonds with copper yet.. this is more than 1yr later after the fact...Der8uer liquid metal would be dry already by now LIKE DRY DRY.... im using on the ihs under and in top with the optimus v2.
> 
> 
> Btw, got a email asking my question for the intel bracket and got a response yesterday (it took a week) to let me know they were stocking the satin versions of this bracket... so i went and got me the intel bracket for my foundation block to have both brackets.. now @Optimus WC what about at all nickel top for it??


they probably will change that for next cpu block. The foundation was first product out for them (ignore the sig1 years ago). I think torx is coming for lga1700/am5 blocks


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> I know Optimus includes a small tube of KPX with their blocks and recommends it. I assume that some of you guys may have different preferred pastes tho and am interested in hearing what you guys go to? Or just stick with the KPX?
> 
> I got a bunch of MX4. NTH2 and Kryonaut. And now these tubes of KPX.


I am far worse than you. Threw out the NH1, MX4. I have MX5, Thermalright TFX, Kingpin 10g, 10g NH2 and Kryonaut. Using Kingpin on the GPU and Thermalright TFX on the CPU.


----------



## HyperMatrix

criskoe said:


> I know Optimus includes a small tube of KPX with their blocks and recommends it. I assume that some of you guys may have different preferred pastes tho and am interested in hearing what you guys go to? Or just stick with the KPX?
> 
> I got a bunch of MX4. NTH2 and Kryonaut. And now these tubes of KPX.





Section31 said:


> I am far worse than you. Threw out the NH1, MX4. I have MX5, Thermalright TFX, Kingpin 10g, 10g NH2 and Kryonaut. Using Kingpin on the GPU and Thermalright TFX on the CPU.


It's surprising seeing people not using liquid metal. There's a substantial difference in cooling performance. If you're paying the extra $$ for an Optimus block to get a few degrees lower temps, why wouldn't you use liquid metal to get another few degrees lower on top of that? As a frame of reference....my AIO Kingpin 3090 when hooked up to 21W Delta fans would finish a Port Royal bench run maxing out at 48-49C. Switching to liquid metal let me do the same run while maxing out at 42-43C. That's a pretty major difference for little cost.


----------



## Lobstar

HyperMatrix said:


> It's surprising seeing people not using liquid metal. There's a substantial difference in cooling performance. If you're paying the extra $$ for an Optimus block to get a few degrees lower temps, why wouldn't you use liquid metal to get another few degrees lower on top of that? As a frame of reference....my AIO Kingpin 3090 when hooked up to 21W Delta fans would finish a Port Royal bench run maxing out at 48-49C. Switching to liquid metal let me do the same run while maxing out at 42-43C. That's a pretty major difference for little cost.


Liquid metal requires way more maintenance than paste. You have to replace it once every three months until it stops being absorbed. I'm not trying to do all that ****.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Lobstar said:


> Liquid metal requires way more maintenance than paste. You have to replace it once every three months until it stops being absorbed. I'm not trying to do all that ****.


Only if applied to copper. Not an issue when nickel plated.


----------



## Lobstar

That is not my experience. /Shrug


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Yeah if used with copper it requires more mainteinance. You will know asap when it dries/get absolved. Specially on a cpu that uses alot of watts..

So far my tests thermalright liquid metal doesnt dry as quick as the der8uer one ...is been more than over a year already and still performing as first day.. Virging ihs copper. Both sides. Little was applied too. Also nickel gets bonded but not as bad as copper.


----------



## inedenimadam

I read a few pages, but not all...is the kingpin block on any sort of pre-order yet? EVGA released thier kingpin block today, but I never even saw it go in stock to immediately go out of stock. I really want a full cover block for this KPE.


----------



## Section31

inedenimadam said:


> I read a few pages, but not all...is the kingpin block on any sort of pre-order yet? EVGA released thier kingpin block today, but I never even saw it go in stock to immediately go out of stock. I really want a full cover block for this KPE.


Some users got one. Hopefully this supply chain issues get resolved, So many items effected at this point.


----------



## dng25

Section31 said:


> Some users got one. Hopefully this supply chain issues get resolved, So many items effected at this point.


Nah it's pretty typical for EVGA to release only a handful the first day of preorder.


----------



## Shawnb99

inedenimadam said:


> I read a few pages, but not all...is the kingpin block on any sort of pre-order yet? EVGA released thier kingpin block today, but I never even saw it go in stock to immediately go out of stock. I really want a full cover block for this KPE.


The auto notify went live today, maybe a handful of blocks went out today.


----------



## Biggu

inedenimadam said:


> I read a few pages, but not all...is the kingpin block on any sort of pre-order yet? EVGA released thier kingpin block today, but I never even saw it go in stock to immediately go out of stock. I really want a full cover block for this KPE.


If you are asking about a Optimus block for KPE you got at the very least a month, realisticly more before you can get it
.


----------



## Shawnb99

Biggu said:


> If you are asking about a Optimus block for KPE you got at the very least a month, realisticly more before you can get it
> .


At least two months if not more for the Optimus block


----------



## Lobstar

What would I gain with LM over Kryonaut Extreme at this point? Water is at 30C and GPU is at 36.4C. This is one hour into CP2077 max/psycho settings 3440x1440 no DLSS. My AM4 foundation cooler is bare copper and my IHS is lapped to bare copper so no chance I'm getting into the maintenance nightmare there.


----------



## sdmf74

Where can I find some info or pics on the mounting mechanism on the optimus foundation? I cant really even find any pics that show how it mounts. Does it use a backplate? Is the mounting good?

I cant find a D-RGB mounting ring for my EK velocity cpu block so was just considering replacing it with a foundation block since Im upgrading to Z590 starting today or in the next few days

Edit: for thermal paste my go to has always been Gelid gc extreme but switch back and forth with kryonaut now. I'm getting ready to try KPX but will be surprised if it's better than gelid


----------



## Lobstar

sdmf74 said:


> Where can I find some info or pics on the mounting mechanism on the optimus foundation? I cant really even find any pics that show how it mounts. Does it use a backplate? Is the mounting good?


I just noticed you said Z590 ... If you're talking AM4 the directions suggest using the stock AM4 backplate that comes with all motherboards and attached the standoffs to that then using the thumb screws through the mounting plate that is integral to the block. This didn't work for me as the screws were too small for one of the four corners of my mounting plate so I fell back to the alternative included with the purchase: 4 washers and 4 thumb screws. I found a post earlier in this (or maybe another) thread that mentioned the back plate isn't required. I have mine torqued down pretty good and I can't notice any issues.


----------



## sdmf74

Yeah I need some info on the Intel block. This is why I dont own one already. Ive been considering one for many months but unfortunately there is many videos about the threadripper block but nothing on intel


----------



## Lobstar

sdmf74 said:


> Yeah I need some info on the Intel block. This is why I dont own one already. Ive been considering one for many months but unfortunately there is many videos about the threadripper block but nothing on intel


It's literally on the product page under instructions if you just keep scrolling down.


----------



## sdmf74

ffs please tell me your not referring to the little diagram in black. Would you buy a product based on that?


----------



## sdmf74

Anyone used Spartan liquid cooling.com? Are they legit?


----------



## criskoe

sdmf74 said:


> Anyone used Spartan liquid cooling.com? Are they legit?


I haven’t but considering they are on EKWBs authorized retailers list. I’d assume and is pretty safe to say they are “legit” when it comes to selling EK stuff. Are they fast and good service. Don’t know sorry.

That is also considering you linked their ek product page. I’m guessing you want to buy a ek product from them.


----------



## sdmf74

criskoe said:


> I haven’t but considering they are on EKWBs authorized retailers list. I’d assume and is pretty safe to say they are “legit” when it comes to selling EK stuff. Are they fast and good service. Don’t know sorry.
> 
> That is also considering you linked their ek product page. I’m guessing you want to buy a ek product from them.


Where did you find there EK authorization on EK's website? Cause I couldnt find it. Im not gonna trust they are a legit reseller just cause they posted an EK emblem on their website.

I contacted them on facebook and said I was interested in buying but had never heard of them before & asked them why their contact area code is in Michigan when they are located in Massachusetts and they promptly deleted the post from their facebook page rather than reassuring me they are legit. The only other info I could find on them was a reddit post talking about how the owner called the cops on a customer & the owner just kept replying (like 8 times) with the same broken english (chinese) scripted answer that made little sense.

EDIT: ok just found EKs reseller listing, still they are acting sketchy as hell


----------



## inedenimadam

Dear Optimus,
I put my name on the KingPin waterblock wait-list over at EVGA. There is no better time than present to release a competitive block. You can even charge a premium on top of your normal premium and I would gladly pay. I hope this correspondence finds you and motivates you to work your magic.

TLDR: yo, where ma block at?


----------



## Shawnb99

inedenimadam said:


> Dear Optimus,
> I put my name on the KingPin waterblock wait-list over at EVGA. There is no better time than present to release a competitive block. You can even charge a premium on top of your normal premium and I would gladly pay. I hope this correspondence finds you and motivates you to work your magic.
> 
> TLDR: yo, where ma block at?


It's at least 2 months away if not longer. 


__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1378016838630526978


----------



## Lobstar

sdmf74 said:


> ffs please tell me your not referring to the little diagram in black. Would you buy a product based on that?


That's exactly what you asked for. One socket uses the plate, one does not. To answer your question, yes I would. I'm not an idiot who doesn't understand diagrams for assembly.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> It's at least 2 months away if not longer.
> 
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1378016838630526978


Maybe they improved the design from ftw3 blocks. Even better looking


----------



## inedenimadam

Shawnb99 said:


> It's at least 2 months away if not longer.


Well, that sucks. 

I checked out the Optimus website today for the first time. I ordered one of their signature v2 blocks. Looks good on paper. I can't wait to try it.


----------



## dng25

Section31 said:


> Maybe they improved the design from ftw3 blocks. Even better looking


Maybe active backplate?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Section31 said:


> they probably will change that for next cpu block. The foundation was first product out for them (ignore the sig1 years ago). I think torx is coming for lga1700/am5 blocks


yeah but i want the screws for my current 3 blocks i own lol tho
maybe i do a lil shop later to see what screws i can use and replace them i need to ask them first what size. Im hoping the actual intel bracket i order have the intel mountings tho and is not just the bracket. waiting for that to arrive first so i can shoot them an email asking them and if any case i dont receive any intels mounting hardware that as well too.


----------



## Section31

dng25 said:


> Maybe active backplate?


You mean watercooled backplate like ekwb offers


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Section31 said:


> You mean watercooled backplate like ekwb offers



this is an acquaintance of mine. like literally nvidia made :abominations of gpus lol:


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> this is an acquaintance of mine. like literally nvidia made :abominations of gpus lol:
> View attachment 2488099


Did you see the results from ekwb watercooled backplate. It was only mid 40ish and assuming optimus thicker plate is 50-60 its not as significant as thought


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Section31 said:


> Did you see the results from ekwb watercooled backplate. It was only mid 40ish and assuming optimus thicker plate is 50-60 its not as significant as thought


yeah with the right equipment/block it should be enough.... but my prespective about what nvidia did with this release and the way they STUFFED crap in that pcb like you going to tell me its normal 100c on any equipment out of the box stock>? like no brother...

I think a 3080ti would be hotter than a 3090 specially if you manage to go above 400-500w it should be worst than the 3080/3090 itself...
3090 uses more watts than the 3080 on the mem but she have more chips/contacts for those watts to get dissipated.. that 3080ti would have maybe the same chips/density/contact than the 3080 and more watts wise....
Like idk man lets wait and see bcuz it dont look good...

and if i need $300-400 to cool it like to me is a no no.. ekwb option is already a $200+ investment without the active backplate...
i got an alphacool block for the 6800xt with included backplate for less than $140 shipped...

gpu waterblocks are dispensable not a good investment to begin with... Its the worst investment on the watercooling department..


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> yeah with the right equipment/block it should be enough.... but my prespective about what nvidia did with this release and the way they STUFFED crap in that pcb like you going to tell me its normal 100c on any equipment out of the box stock>? like no brother...
> 
> I think a 3080ti would be hotter than a 3090 specially if you manage to go above 400-500w it should be worst than the 3080/3090 itself...
> 3090 uses more watts than the 3080 on the mem but she have more chips/contacts for those watts to get dissipated.. that 3080ti would have maybe the same chips/density/contact than the 3080 and more watts wise....
> Like idk man lets wait and see bcuz it dont look good...


It’s because its samsung 8nm but what can you do when tsmc fabs are so damn busy. If ampere was on tsmc 7nm power numbers/size would go down. Maybe better memory overclocks as result. Every shrink in node has not reduced the heat/power efficiency for over clocking enuthiast.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Problem is density wise would be hotter look at ryzen 5th series lower nm more hard to cool..
i find easy as hell to cool a 7980xe dissipating 400-500watts cant say the same for my 5900x for example...
Using the same equipment mind you.. amd wattage on 5th series is for every watt is 2x as intel cooling wise..
200w in ryzen 5th is like cooling 400w on intel 14nm and it makes sense to me now that i look at it is half the nm almost then some


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> Problem is density wise would be hotter look at ryzen 5th series lower nm more hard to cool..
> i find easy as hell to cool a 7980xe dissipating 400-500watts cant say the same for my 5900x for example...
> Using the same equipment mind you.. amd wattage on 5th series is for every watt is 2x as intel cooling wise..
> 200w in ryzen 5th is like cooling 400w on intel 14nm and it makes sense to me now that i look at it is half the nm almost then some


I am leaving amd train back to intel for next build. I prefer intel overall and overclocking was lot easier on there chipset. Getting pbo curve optimization, ram optimization etc is more time than i have.

Lunarlake is now my target.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Section31 said:


> I am leaving amd train back to intel for next build. I prefer intel overall and overclocking was lot easier on there chipset. Getting pbo curve optimization, ram optimization etc is more time than i have.
> 
> Lunarlake is now my target.


I like the ryzen i try 1st/2nd skipped 3rd now 5th i like them but amd in reality have no tuning other than static on 5th series static is better than pbo in this series it goes higher and is colder you sacrifing heat for 1 core like hell no 1 core aint worth the +20c temps and mind you my 5900x have -30 all cores and adapative negative offset in top of it...
6 cores @ 48 other ccx @ 47x =====> 1 core at 49-51.50x dancing the macarena. pbo is between 46-47x depending on how cold is the ambient mostly 46.25x-46.50x range and pbo all core load multiplier x is slower than static same multiplier to top it off... so 46x static ====> 46x pbo lol...

Thats why i dont understand the users over the ram overclocking section.. I literally used this 32gb kit i binned on my 8700k few yrs ago put it at known timings i know they were stable... 3800MHz 16s @ 1t gear on and im getting the same performance even better as most people trying to run stupid tight timings that makes no sense... Like brother the stuff is capped if your infinity fabric doesnt go above 1900 those timings tweaks arent doing nothing at all you killing yourself for no gains... i havent touch no more the ram and i have around 12-15kits around here and i see no use tweaking the ram below that... did a hci run one time to make sure it was stable and that was the fun of it it was over after that..

Then i found that L3 cache crap thats driving me nuts where i can crash the cpu at will if i use certain statics overclocks.. Pbo is the only way i can run this cpu cant use static overclock only way would be using CTR and Hybrid bcuz system would crash/kernel panic for the life of it but it will pass blender/rog bench stress tests but crash on idle lol like :mindblown:.. theres alot of people with the crashes and they dont know why.... but its because the l3 cache speed ....


----------



## JohnnyFlash

Back in stock! Just ordered mine.


----------



## Section31

JohnnyFlash said:


> Back in stock! Just ordered mine.


Saw it over weekend. Great sign


----------



## itssladenlol

JohnnyFlash said:


> Back in stock! Just ordered mine.


They are never in Stock, they just opend orders. 
Expect 6-8weeks, thats how long ive been waiting already.


----------



## Section31

Also it looks like existing optimus blocks will work for lga1700. Other brands saying there blocks are compatible


----------



## Shawnb99

Not happy with this 









Nickel clearly has flaked off


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC why has my nickel flaked off?


----------



## Wihglah

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC why has my nickel flaked off?


Try cleaning all the crud off...


----------



## criskoe

Shawnb99 said:


> Not happy with this
> 
> View attachment 2488250
> 
> Nickel clearly has flaked off


Yikes! That’s the worst one yet. How old is that coldplate??

Optimus has replied to my email about the screws and acrylic plate and terminals. Top Plate - 3/32in Hex and Terminal - 2mm in Hex in case anyone cares.... 

My email regarding the scratched top is still in limbo as I guess it had to be sent to a different team member? so I’m Still waiting for an acknowledgment and solution for my scratched top I received. 

Definitely not happy so far. And now seeing this flaking nickel yet again is making me even more salty. Even though it’s not even myn. Lol. 

Delays and lack of communication are one thing but when QC issues start happening aswell its not cool. I’m sure Optimus will take care of it but it needs to be much easier and faster process.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Shawnb99 said:


> Not happy with this
> 
> View attachment 2488250
> 
> Nickel clearly has flaked off


What you used for liquid? How long?
I cant see my nickel version as the rig is a pita to dissamble but i will post some pics when i do take it apart is been well over 1yr + 1/2 with distilled water and kill coil .


Btw received my intel bracket it does comes with mounting hardware.

Not a fan of the "thumb screws" for the back another thing i critic back then. You can brake the pcb of the mobo while tightening. They can fall off when unscrewing them.. You will have to remove the whole mobo if that happens..


----------



## Shawnb99

zGunBLADEz said:


> What you used for liquid? How long?
> I cant see my nickel version as the rig is a pita to dissamble but i will post some pics when i do take it apart is been well over 1yr + 1/2 with distilled water and kill coil .


Just distilled water and inhibitor and biocide. Was running maybe a month, otherwise has been apart for the last 6 months. There was no visible flaking 2 months ago when I took the block apart so very shocking and disappointing to see how much has flaked now.
Optimus is sending a new one out tomorrow


----------



## sdmf74

Lobstar said:


> That's exactly what you asked for. One socket uses the plate, one does not. To answer your question, yes I would. I'm not an idiot who doesn't understand diagrams for assembly.


Dude you calling me an idiot! I guarantee you wouldnt say that to my face. I asked for info on the intel block, specifically videos or pictures so I could see what the mounting mechanism looks like before I buy one & you call me an idiot & say I cant read a diagram, Here is the diagram you referred me to which explains absolutely nothing, what it looks like, not the color of the hardware, if it has a backplate, nothing. Alot a help you are. 
You said "One socket uses the plate" What? Apparently you're the one that cant read a diagram cause thats not a "plate" its a motherboard lol...


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Shawnb99 said:


> Just distilled water and inhibitor and biocide. Was running maybe a month, otherwise has been apart for the last 6 months. There was no visible flaking 2 months ago when I took the block apart so very shocking and disappointing to see how much has flaked now.
> Optimus is sending a new one out tomorrow


that was only a month>? wow... now im curious. but im not planning yet to dismantle my 7980xe.... im still messing around with the 5900x & 6800xt build which stil in carboard box with the koolance block havent even put the foundation block yet...




Section31 said:


> Also it looks like existing optimus blocks will work for lga1700. Other brands saying there blocks are compatible












Source: LGA 1700 socket won’t be compatible with current coolers - HWCooling.net

now im wondering :/


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> that was only a month>? wow... now im curious. but im not planning yet to dismantle my 7980xe.... im still messing around with the 5900x & 6800xt build which stil in carboard box with the koolance block havent even put the foundation block yet...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2488376
> 
> 
> Source: LGA 1700 socket won’t be compatible with current coolers - HWCooling.net
> 
> now im wondering :/


Shawnb99 case isn’t the worse. How many cpu coldplate have i gone through over traces of what look like nickel flaking. I tried a lot of cleaners and nothing but my issue is only visible if you shine an flashlight or put it directly under the sun. That and what can you do when one of your rads is showing signs of corrosion and lot of material leaking into loop. Had to but temporary rad till heatkiller new internal rads are out.

I am heavily leaning towards going back to intel alderlake myself as long as its close to ryzen performance but stays at current intel pricing. Ditto with upcoming 3080ti Gpu’s. The market so hot that i can resell my current stuff when i rebuy from retail (just wait) and come out ahead cash wise.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

In the process of tear down and swapping out my intel build for my amd one for my gaming PC. Had to start early because I caught a leak coming from my foundation intel block. Got VERY lucky that nothing was fried as fluid got into the top x16 slot where I had a riser plugged in for a vertical GPU mount. Not sure what is causing the leak, I've never had a block do this before and I've torn down and reassembled them countless times with other brands. Gaskets look fine. I pressure tested overnight after cleaning and reassembly and lost about 1.5psi.


















Also, a few observations on the optimus FTW3 gpu block now that I've had it for several months. Decided to pull it apart and clean it since the gasket has some discoloration on it, guessing its junk from the rads, block is otherwise clean. I did notice the fujipoly sarcon pads leak oil just like cheap oem ones. I've been mining ETH whenever I'm not using my PC since January, so it's under constant load. This stuff is difficult to get off too, not going to bother with the pcb but will clean off the backplate. I've found eyeglass cleaner works really well for this stuff and its safe to use on any surface. The backplate pad screwholes need a larger cut out. The pad squishes into the screw threads and its pretty much impossible to clean off once its in the threads. I think if I were to assemble one of these for the first time I would definitely widen the diameter of these holes in addition to modifying it for the cutouts.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Section31 said:


> Shawnb99 case isn’t the worse. How many cpu coldplate have i gone through over traces of what look like nickel flaking. I tried a lot of cleaners and nothing but my issue is only visible if you shine an flashlight or put it directly under the sun. That and what can you do when one of your rads is showing signs of corrosion and lot of material leaking into loop. Had to but temporary rad till heatkiller new internal rads are out.
> 
> I am heavily leaning towards going back to intel alderlake myself as long as its close to ryzen performance but stays at current intel pricing. Ditto with upcoming 3080ti Gpu’s. The market so hot that i can resell my current stuff when i rebuy from retail (just wait) and come out ahead cash wise.


I mean i dont mind the flaking to be honest specially in that block you cant see inside. I Own both versions nickel and copper versions of V2... But, some ppl will get mad about stuff like that dont blame them.. bcuz eventually i know that it would flake in the short or long run you have a jet stream right in top of it constant at all times and thats the hottest part or one of the hottest parts on the loop so is inevitable.. I wonder if optimus test this heating the plate in one end and have a constant flow of water 24/7 to see duration specially those fins that are so thin how much nickel will get in there...
my koolance 380 is lil bit not that much but that block is what a decade now> and it still performs. My supremacy all nickel evo is the worst offender i scrap it all off with sandpaper i dislike alot that block lol. It just dont perform like the koolance 380 or V2... Its like i look at it like a cheap block like my byski one. But i own all the mountings etc for that i also lapped the crap out of it so it aint nickel no more on the bottom lol.

Like i said, im kind of iffy with the 5900x and ryzen overall not bcuz is not good is just lacking in the tweaking department.. I get spoiled BAD with x299 and what i can do with their cpus and how do you overclock them and tweak them.. X299 is like the holy grail on how to tweak and take advantage of a cpu in every aspect all the options and approaches you can take with that system perse i love that...

im building a CM200P watercooled with quick disconnects to replace my 8700k build but i still think 7980xe would still be my main.. That L3 cache crap im having with the 5900x and the lack of tweaking throw me off... and just knowing i cant cool it like i can cool my 7980xe using more watts is another thing.. that single core perf using PBO @ 1x core aint buying me at all.. Then heat alone not bcuz of cooling perse but bcuz of density and how fast we dissipate the heat... Like i said 200w on ryzen is like cooling literally 400w on an intel cpu... that 1x2watt ratio is killing me the same way the temps of the 3080-3090 does...

i was undervolting my 6800xt and that sucker can be around 17k on timespy and 50k on firestrike using 160-170watts thats mindblown to me on stock cooler @ 42c like wth...


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> I mean i dont mind the flaking to be honest specially in that block you cant see inside. I Own both versions nickel and copper versions of V2... But, some ppl will get mad about stuff like that dont blame them.. bcuz eventually i know that it would flake in the short or long run you have a jet stream right in top of it constant at all times and thats the hottest part or one of the hottest parts on the loop so is inevitable.. I wonder if optimus test this heating the plate in one end and have a constant flow of water 24/7 to see duration specially those fins that are so thin how much nickel will get in there...
> my koolance 380 is lil bit not that much but that block is what a decade now> and it still performs. My supremacy all nickel evo is the worst offender i scrap it all off with sandpaper i dislike alot that block lol. It just dont perform like the koolance 380 or V2... Its like i look at it like a cheap block like my byski one. But i own all the mountings etc for that i also lapped the crap out of it so it aint nickel no more on the bottom lol.
> 
> Like i said, im kind of iffy with the 5900x and ryzen overall not bcuz is not good is just lacking in the tweaking department.. I get spoiled BAD with x299 and what i can do with their cpus and how do you overclock them and tweak them.. X299 is like the holy grail on how to tweak and take advantage of a cpu in every aspect all the options and approaches you can take with that system perse i love that...
> 
> im building a CM200P watercooled with quick disconnects to replace my 8700k build but i still think 7980xe would still be my main.. That L3 cache crap im having with the 5900x and the lack of tweaking throw me off... and just knowing i cant cool it like i can cool my 7980xe using more watts is another thing.. that single core perf using PBO @ 1x core aint buying me at all.. Then heat alone not bcuz of cooling perse but bcuz of density and how fast we dissipate the heat... Like i said 200w on ryzen is like cooling literally 400w on an intel cpu... that 1x2watt ratio is killing me the same way the temps of the 3080-3090 does...
> 
> i was undervolting my 6800xt and that sucker can be around 17k on timespy and 50k on firestrike using 160-170watts thats mindblown to me on stock cooler @ 42c like wth...


I agree, i owned an 7920x delidded too. I would have kept it had i not held out for rtx2080ti. I just needed an caselabs sma8a, install two 480mm rads and would have no issues. That or bought an mo-ra3 back in 2018, i ended up buying one last year.

I wonder what intel can do with its dg3 platform myself. DG2 is 3070 level which is good


----------



## Section31

Edge0fsanity said:


> In the process of tear down and swapping out my intel build for my amd one for my gaming PC. Had to start early because I caught a leak coming from my foundation intel block. Got VERY lucky that nothing was fried as fluid got into the top x16 slot where I had a riser plugged in for a vertical GPU mount. Not sure what is causing the leak, I've never had a block do this before and I've torn down and reassembled them countless times with other brands. Gaskets look fine. I pressure tested overnight after cleaning and reassembly and lost about 1.5psi.
> 
> View attachment 2488398
> 
> View attachment 2488399
> 
> 
> Also, a few observations on the optimus FTW3 gpu block now that I've had it for several months. Decided to pull it apart and clean it since the gasket has some discoloration on it, guessing its junk from the rads, block is otherwise clean. I did notice the fujipoly sarcon pads leak oil just like cheap oem ones. I've been mining ETH whenever I'm not using my PC since January, so it's under constant load. This stuff is difficult to get off too, not going to bother with the pcb but will clean off the backplate. I've found eyeglass cleaner works really well for this stuff and its safe to use on any surface. The backplate pad screwholes need a larger cut out. The pad squishes into the screw threads and its pretty much impossible to clean off once its in the threads. I think if I were to assemble one of these for the first time I would definitely widen the diameter of these holes in addition to modifying it for the cutouts.
> 
> View attachment 2488400
> 
> View attachment 2488401
> 
> View attachment 2488402


Optimus really needs to come out with there own rads. There stuff just shows the gunk more easier than other brands (maybe the smaller microchannels). Good idea to stock up on fujipoly.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Edge0fsanity said:


> In the process of tear down and swapping out my intel build for my amd one for my gaming PC. Had to start early because I caught a leak coming from my foundation intel block. Got VERY lucky that nothing was fried as fluid got into the top x16 slot where I had a riser plugged in for a vertical GPU mount. Not sure what is causing the leak, I've never had a block do this before and I've torn down and reassembled them countless times with other brands. Gaskets look fine. I pressure tested overnight after cleaning and reassembly and lost about 1.5psi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, a few observations on the optimus FTW3 gpu block now that I've had it for several months. Decided to pull it apart and clean it since the gasket has some discoloration on it, guessing its junk from the rads, block is otherwise clean. I did notice the fujipoly sarcon pads leak oil just like cheap oem ones. I've been mining ETH whenever I'm not using my PC since January, so it's under constant load. This stuff is difficult to get off too, not going to bother with the pcb but will clean off the backplate. I've found eyeglass cleaner works really well for this stuff and its safe to use on any surface. The backplate pad screwholes need a larger cut out. The pad squishes into the screw threads and its pretty much impossible to clean off once its in the threads. I think if I were to assemble one of these for the first time I would definitely widen the diameter of these holes in addition to modifying it for the cutouts.


did you just mount the block straight away? or dismantle it and eye check everything before assembly?? i always dismantle and re tight all my blocks before hand... as you have to think sometimes somebody didnt tight something right away or o ring gets miss aligned etc.... Another thing with ek and their "void warranty" seals which are illegal on the US... Also, looking at the trail of liquid can be coming from the fittings as well. may check those as well.. Then if you fry your computer its your word against them and that risk im not willing to take..

IF you have a psi tester try connecting to the block itself seperate..

Oil on thermal pads is normal and desirable btw nothing to worry about..




Section31 said:


> Optimus really needs to come out with there own rads. There stuff just shows the gunk more easier than other brands (maybe the smaller microchannels). Good idea to stock up on fujipoly.


yeah those fins its like the loop filter lol


----------



## Edge0fsanity

zGunBLADEz said:


> did you just mount the block straight away? or dismantle it and eye check everything before assembly?? i always dismantle and re tight all my blocks before hand... as you have to think sometimes somebody didnt tight something right away or o ring gets miss aligned etc.... Another thing with ek and their "void warranty" seals which are illegal on the US... Also, looking at the trail of liquid can be coming from the fittings as well. may check those as well..
> 
> IF you have a psi tester try connecting to the block itself seperate..
> 
> Oil on thermal pads is normal and desirable btw nothing to worry about..


Originally I had mounted the block straight away but had to pull it a couple weeks later. I had a bad batch of fluid that clogged my blocks and rads with gunk. It didn't leak during this timeframe. I did have to clean and reassemble after that disaster with the fluid. Fluid wasn't coming from the fittings, they were dry. It was escaping between the bracket and plexi which means the gasket failed. I didn't post the pics but you could clearly see the fluid pushing out in that area through the plexi. What has me more concerned is the block not holding pressure, I'm going to have to pull it apart again and take a real close look at the gasket. All I can think of at this point is the gasket has some defect or damage. I have been pressure testing with the block separate from the loop. 

Yeah I know the oil is normal, just annoying.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Section31 said:


> Optimus really needs to come out with there own rads. There stuff just shows the gunk more easier than other brands (maybe the smaller microchannels). Good idea to stock up on fujipoly.


Really looking forward to a high quality pre-cleaned radiator. I have HWL rads right now that are what I consider squeaky clean, not depositing junk on the cold plates after months of use, but it seems microparticles are a problem still with my gasket turning a brownish color.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

You can ask optimus for a new oring if thats the case.. maybe it got deformed or something. i will leave that block on the psi tester for a day at least to see after re-tightening all the screws i will flip the o-ring as well..


----------



## Section31

Edge0fsanity said:


> Really looking forward to a high quality pre-cleaned radiator. I have HWL rads right now that are what I consider squeaky clean, not depositing junk on the cold plates after months of use, but it seems microparticles are a problem still with my gasket turning a brownish color.


Same issue i am dealing with. Im going heatkiller new internal rads because of them. My temporary corsair xr7 still doing it just lot less. Heatkiller taken long time to come out with them.


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> did you just mount the block straight away? or dismantle it and eye check everything before assembly?? i always dismantle and re tight all my blocks before hand... as you have to think sometimes somebody didnt tight something right away or o ring gets miss aligned etc.... Another thing with ek and their "void warranty" seals which are illegal on the US... Also, looking at the trail of liquid can be coming from the fittings as well. may check those as well.. Then if you fry your computer its your word against them and that risk im not willing to take..
> 
> IF you have a psi tester try connecting to the block itself seperate..
> 
> Oil on thermal pads is normal and desirable btw nothing to worry about..
> 
> 
> 
> yeah those fins its like the loop filter lol


Can optimus make an filter so we can keep there blocks clean


----------



## chibi

sdmf74 said:


> *Dude you calling me an idiot! I guarantee you wouldnt say that to my face.* I asked for info on the intel block, specifically videos or pictures so I could see what the mounting mechanism looks like before I buy one & you call *me an idiot & say I cant read a diagram*, Here is the diagram you referred me to which explains absolutely nothing, what it looks like, not the color of the hardware, if it has a backplate, nothing. Alot a help you are.
> You said "One socket uses the plate" What? Apparently you're the one that cant read a diagram cause thats not a "plate" its a motherboard lol...
> View attachment 2488368


Lol, I'd say you're calling yourself out as an idiot for sure if you can't read that diagram and understand it.

Left is the LGA 20xx socket. It uses the CPU mounting frame to screw the posts in directly. You then install the cpu block ontop of the post and fasten the nut on top.

Right is the LGA 115x socket. There's a nut on the backside of the mobo pcb, which you thread the mounting post into. Next place the CPU block ontop of the post and tighten the nut.

If you fail to read and understand that, then you yourself are screaming "I'm an idiot" to everyone. Take a chill pill tough guy and take a second glance before calling people out.


----------



## Lobstar

sdmf74 said:


> Dude you calling me an idiot! I guarantee you wouldnt say that to my face.


OK idiot. Keep being an idiot. Big tough guy on the internet can't read a diagram and look at his motherboard.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Section31 said:


> Same issue i am dealing with. Im going heatkiller new internal rads because of them. My temporary corsair xr7 still doing it just lot less. Heatkiller taken long time to come out with them.


Have you found anything to clean the gasket with that will restore the white color? Tried dish soap and water so far, helped a little but still brown. Would hate to resort to more aggressive cleaners.


----------



## dng25

Section31 said:


> Can optimus make an filter so we can keep there blocks clean


Aquacomputer makes a filter.


----------



## MrFox

Shawnb99 said:


> It's at least 2 months away if not longer.
> 
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1378016838630526978


Man, it's taking a long time. I really want an Optimus block for my 3090 K|NGP|N so I can shuck this tacky hybrid abortion. EVGA is starting to trickle out a few Hydro Copper blocks, but at the rate things are going the GPU is going to be obsolete before it has a chance to be awesome. I got on the notify list 27 seconds after it opened up for Elite members and so far nothing. 

I'd rather have the Optimus block. Hopefully, it won't be much longer.


----------



## Shawnb99

MrFox said:


> Man, it's taking a long time. I really want an Optimus block for my 3090 K|NGP|N so I can shuck this tacky hybrid abortion. EVGA is starting to trickle out a few Hydro Copper blocks, but at the rate things are going the GPU is going to be obsolete before it has a chance to be awesome. I got on the notify list 27 seconds after it opened up for Elite members and so far nothing.
> 
> I'd rather have the Optimus block. Hopefully, it won't be much longer.


Yeah I expected more Hydrocopper blocks to be released. Next batch won’t be till next week, think they are holding back for the Hydrocopper card. Hopefully Optimus isn’t that long

I’d rather have the Optimus block as well but this will have to do till then. I got in 6 seconds after the lost opened


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah I expected more Hydrocopper blocks to be released. Next batch won’t be till next week, think they are holding back for the Hydrocopper card. Hopefully Optimus isn’t that long
> 
> I’d rather have the Optimus block as well but this will have to do till then. I got in 6 seconds after the lost opened
> 
> View attachment 2488477


You sure you don’t want the 3080ti. Maybe somebody will buy kingpin plus that block and you can come ahead financially by a lot.

One of few times this hobby can make us money instead of being money sinkhole.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> You sure you don’t want the 3080ti. Maybe somebody will buy kingpin plus that block and you can come ahead financially by a lot.
> 
> One of few times this hobby can make us money instead of being money sinkhole.


Thought about it. Am going to sign up for the auto notify anyways so we’ll see how that goes. If I get in early enough to snag one I’ll have to really think about it. 
Smart move would be to scalp the KPE and block and likely earn enough profits to buy the 3080Ti but I never claimed to be smart lol
I expect the release to go the same, if not lucky to get in right away it’ll be a long long wait.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Thought about it. Am going to sign up for the auto notify anyways so we’ll see how that goes. If I get in early enough to snag one I’ll have to really think about it.
> Smart move would be to scalp the KPE and block and likely earn enough profits to buy the 3080Ti but I never claimed to be smart lol
> I expect the release to go the same, if not lucky to get in right away it’ll be a long long wait.


Lets both go intel alderlake and 3080ti ftw3/strix lol.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Lets both go intel alderlake and 3080ti ftw3/strix lol.


It’ll be 4090 time by the time we finish our builds lol


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> It’ll be 4090 time by the time we finish our builds lol


I shouldn’t have gone amd route. Waste of capital. All i needed was to invest into more cooling in first place as heat was my primary issue. Either mo-ra3 or caselabs sma8a revision with 2 x 480mm rads. Then upgrade to intel alderlake/3090 this year. Can’t predict the future.


----------



## Franzi

itssladenlol said:


> They are never in Stock, they just opend orders.
> Expect 6-8weeks, thats how long ive been waiting already.


I ordered one today and got a shipping confirmation with tracking one hour after I placed the order.


----------



## itssladenlol

Franzi said:


> I ordered one today and got a shipping confirmation with tracking one hour after I placed the order.


Talking About gpu Blocks. 
Screenshot or didnt happen. 
People are waiting 6+ weeks for Blocks already.


----------



## Kashtan

Any info about comparison waterblock Optimus Signature V2 and Techn? In all reviews Techn beat of Foundamentals Optimus, but never i don`t see fight between SigV2 and Techn.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Figured out a solution to cool the KPE while waiting for the Optimus block. Simply am not paying $300 for Asetek trash.


Before:










After:


----------



## dwolvin

Is it working better that the stock setup?


----------



## LiquidHaus

dwolvin said:


> Is it working better that the stock setup?


It is, actually!










Disclaimer: I never get very high scores on PR. Highest I've got is 14487 with the 11900k and 14195 with the 5950x. This is mainly to show how temps are after a run on PR.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> It is, actually!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Disclaimer: I never get very high scores on PR. Highest I've got is 14487 with the 11900k and 14195 with the 5950x. This is mainly to show how temps are after a run on PR.


I got potential good news on heatkiller new rads. See your pm.


----------



## dwolvin

Heatkiller might make new rads?! And thanks @LiquidHaus , I do get sample size 1 doesn't mean much. But it's a start! And hopefully the 3xxx fiasco will make the 4xxx series show up on fewer PCBs.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Heatkiller might make new rads?! And thanks @LiquidHaus , I do get sample size 1 doesn't mean much. But it's a start! And hopefully the 3xxx fiasco will make the 4xxx series show up on fewer PCBs.


Whole bunch of us have been asking them about it since they told us in fall 2020. There's pictures and even youtube video on them (see heatkiller thread). See my pm


----------



## inedenimadam

LiquidHaus said:


> Figured out a solution to cool the KPE while waiting for the Optimus block. Simply am not paying $300 for Asetek trash.


I tried that with an older vga supremacy block from EK, but the mount holes didn't line up. 
I just got my notify for the EVGA block, so I guess i am not going to try and figure it out and make my own mount plate. 
Kudos to you. I kind of wish that I had gone that route now.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Not happy with this
> 
> View attachment 2488250
> 
> Nickel clearly has flaked off


I had the same issue, just worse. Mine was showing copper and looked like it was skinned off like a Marten for a fur on the block. My inline filter caught what came loose though. They were pretty quick to send me a replacement cold plate with a story of how it must have slipped past QC. That was before they started with GPU Blocks and actually answered emails. Hit them up is about all you can do, barrage of emails and PMs here. Looks like you are missing a big old chunk on the right. Mine was all fins. Bottom line is no matter who makes them and where they are made and how they are made.........all plated in China by a 6 YO who dug too much mercury out of the pile of scrap.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> I mean i dont mind the flaking to be honest specially in that block you cant see inside. I Own both versions nickel and copper versions of V2... But, some ppl will get mad about stuff like that dont blame them.. bcuz eventually i know that it would flake in the short or long run you have a jet stream right in top of it constant at all times and thats the hottest part or one of the hottest parts on the loop so is inevitable.. I wonder if optimus test this heating the plate in one end and have a constant flow of water 24/7 to see duration specially those fins that are so thin how much nickel will get in there...
> my koolance 380 is lil bit not that much but that block is what a decade now> and it still performs. My supremacy all nickel evo is the worst offender i scrap it all off with sandpaper i dislike alot that block lol. It just dont perform like the koolance 380 or V2... Its like i look at it like a cheap block like my byski one. But i own all the mountings etc for that i also lapped the crap out of it so it aint nickel no more on the bottom lol.
> 
> Like i said, im kind of iffy with the 5900x and ryzen overall not bcuz is not good is just lacking in the tweaking department.. I get spoiled BAD with x299 and what i can do with their cpus and how do you overclock them and tweak them.. X299 is like the holy grail on how to tweak and take advantage of a cpu in every aspect all the options and approaches you can take with that system perse i love that...
> 
> im building a CM200P watercooled with quick disconnects to replace my 8700k build but i still think 7980xe would still be my main.. That L3 cache crap im having with the 5900x and the lack of tweaking throw me off... and just knowing i cant cool it like i can cool my 7980xe using more watts is another thing.. that single core perf using PBO @ 1x core aint buying me at all.. Then heat alone not bcuz of cooling perse but bcuz of density and how fast we dissipate the heat... Like i said 200w on ryzen is like cooling literally 400w on an intel cpu... that 1x2watt ratio is killing me the same way the temps of the 3080-3090 does...
> 
> i was undervolting my 6800xt and that sucker can be around 17k on timespy and 50k on firestrike using 160-170watts thats mindblown to me on stock cooler @ 42c like wth...


I have nickel plated blocks from multiple manufacturers. EKWB, Optimus, Watercool etc and the only flaking Ive ever had was an Optimus cold plate. Id like to see that 50K on firestrike. I get 26,605 in Timespy, 42,469 in firestrike. 

Seems 3D marks #1 spot TIMESPY with a pair of 6800Xts and a 5950x in crossfire is 26,707 and 48,500 in firestrike. They do seem to do better in FS but not so much in Timespy for whatever reason.


----------



## JustinThyme

sdmf74 said:


> Dude you calling me an idiot! I guarantee you wouldnt say that to my face. I asked for info on the intel block, specifically videos or pictures so I could see what the mounting mechanism looks like before I buy one & you call me an idiot & say I cant read a diagram, Here is the diagram you referred me to which explains absolutely nothing, what it looks like, not the color of the hardware, if it has a backplate, nothing. Alot a help you are.
> You said "One socket uses the plate" What? Apparently you're the one that cant read a diagram cause thats not a "plate" its a motherboard lol...
> View attachment 2488368



If its X299 no back plate needed. For everything else they do come with a flimsy plastic backplate with double sided tape pre attached to plastic as the intel is a one for all and its either through the board for 1151 and a POS piece of plastic or the X299 goes right into the Mount that's on the board already. The diagram shows the X299 pretty good but not so well on 1151. Id buy something else, metal with a rubber gasket if that's what you are mounting to.


----------



## JustinThyme

Edge0fsanity said:


> In the process of tear down and swapping out my intel build for my amd one for my gaming PC. Had to start early because I caught a leak coming from my foundation intel block. Got VERY lucky that nothing was fried as fluid got into the top x16 slot where I had a riser plugged in for a vertical GPU mount. Not sure what is causing the leak, I've never had a block do this before and I've torn down and reassembled them countless times with other brands. Gaskets look fine. I pressure tested overnight after cleaning and reassembly and lost about 1.5psi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, a few observations on the optimus FTW3 gpu block now that I've had it for several months. Decided to pull it apart and clean it since the gasket has some discoloration on it, guessing its junk from the rads, block is otherwise clean. I did notice the fujipoly sarcon pads leak oil just like cheap oem ones. I've been mining ETH whenever I'm not using my PC since January, so it's under constant load. This stuff is difficult to get off too, not going to bother with the pcb but will clean off the backplate. I've found eyeglass cleaner works really well for this stuff and its safe to use on any surface. The backplate pad screwholes need a larger cut out. The pad squishes into the screw threads and its pretty much impossible to clean off once its in the threads. I think if I were to assemble one of these for the first time I would definitely widen the diameter of these holes in addition to modifying it for the cutouts.
> 
> View attachment 2488400


The leak looks like its coming from the bottom left screw. 
As for the oily residue I don't think I've ever seen any pads that didn't leave some trace behind that were worth having. One observation, pads aren't necessary on the chokes. They put off very little heat if any. Just do the VRM chips and memory modules and call it a day. The only function of the chokes is to smooth the current of the VRMs and the caps smooth the voltage.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Can optimus make an filter so we can keep there blocks clean


I just spit out a perfectly good sip of 21 YO scotch! Good lord no filters.......slow them down some more as I think everything gets run on one CNC. Aquacomputer makes a decent one with isolation valves built in so you don't have to drain your loop. Just close the valves and put a small container (I use a sawed off spray can lid) to put under it when you pull the cover as just a little coolant is going to come out. Wash screen, wipe out inside with a paper towel, put screen back in, open valves and rock and roll! They come with a couple of spare screens too.

The stainless front can come off unless you are using it to mount or just like how it looks. They sell a bigger front piece if you want to go there with it too. 









Aquacomputer Filter with Stainless Steel Mesh, Ball Valves and Mounting Plate G1/4


This filter unit from Aquacomputer has a great advantage in practicality compared to standard, more simple, filters. Two integrated valves allows easy cleaning of the filter without draining of the whole system. The stainless steel filter mesh with an exceptionally large surface area is...




www.performance-pcs.com


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I just spit out a perfectly good sip of 21 YO scotch! Good lord no filters.......slow them down some more as I think everything gets run on one CNC. Aquacomputer makes a decent one with isolation valves built in so you don't have to drain your loop. Just close the valves and put a small container (I use a sawed off spray can lid) to put under it when you pull the cover as just a little coolant is going to come out. Wash screen, wipe out inside with a paper towel, put screen back in, open valves and rock and roll! They come with a couple of spare screens too.
> 
> The stainless front can come off unless you are using it to mount or just like how it looks. They sell a bigger front piece if you want to go there with it too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer Filter with Stainless Steel Mesh, Ball Valves and Mounting Plate G1/4
> 
> 
> This filter unit from Aquacomputer has a great advantage in practicality compared to standard, more simple, filters. Two integrated valves allows easy cleaning of the filter without draining of the whole system. The stainless steel filter mesh with an exceptionally large surface area is...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com


Might invest into whenever i get my heatkiller rads


----------



## criskoe

JustinThyme said:


> If its X299 no back plate needed. For everything else they do come with a flimsy plastic backplate with double sided tape pre attached to plastic as the intel is a one for all and its either through the board for 1151 and a POS piece of plastic or the X299 goes right into the Mount that's on the board already. The diagram shows the X299 pretty good but not so well on 1151. Id buy something else, metal with a rubber gasket if that's what you are mounting to.


I don’t think they even ship a plastic backplate anymore. I didn’t get one. It’s exactly like that diagram shows. Just posts and nuts for the back for 1151. No washers. Nada.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I just spit out a perfectly good sip of 21 YO scotch! Good lord no filters.......slow them down some more as I think everything gets run on one CNC. Aquacomputer makes a decent one with isolation valves built in so you don't have to drain your loop. Just close the valves and put a small container (I use a sawed off spray can lid) to put under it when you pull the cover as just a little coolant is going to come out. Wash screen, wipe out inside with a paper towel, put screen back in, open valves and rock and roll! They come with a couple of spare screens too.
> 
> The stainless front can come off unless you are using it to mount or just like how it looks. They sell a bigger front piece if you want to go there with it too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer Filter with Stainless Steel Mesh, Ball Valves and Mounting Plate G1/4
> 
> 
> This filter unit from Aquacomputer has a great advantage in practicality compared to standard, more simple, filters. Two integrated valves allows easy cleaning of the filter without draining of the whole system. The stainless steel filter mesh with an exceptionally large surface area is...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com


I got an big group buy bill from heatkiller moment the rads are available. I got to collect up front payment too for those items too.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

JustinThyme said:


> I have nickel plated blocks from multiple manufacturers. EKWB, Optimus, Watercool etc and the only flaking Ive ever had was an Optimus cold plate. Id like to see that 50K on firestrike. I get 26,605 in Timespy, 42,469 in firestrike.
> 
> Seems 3D marks #1 spot TIMESPY with a pair of 6800Xts and a 5950x in crossfire is 26,707 and 48,500 in firestrike. They do seem to do better in FS but not so much in Timespy for whatever reason.


Love how you try to defend ek so bad lol

ermmm im talking about graphic score dude  i see you like always jumping the gun lol... and in top of that is *only using 170 ish watts* for this graphic score that alone is pretty darn good








42c tops on the stock reference cooler as well..

just for the kicks and just bcuz why not lol


Spoiler














stock cooler as well im not even using a block lol my lowest undervolt for that is 112watts


Spoiler














nvidia wut?? wheres the nuclear fusion at??
Like i said that 3090 is an abomination of a card idk where nvidia find or dare to call perfxwatt at!!!!! lets not even talk about those transients that she do @ 500w at stock tdp.... Its like me running or trying to run the 7980xe at 1KHW at all times lol..

I dislike my 5900x as much as i dislike the 3080-3090 series... prefer my 7980xe over 500w than my 5900x @ 200-230watts..

cool them (7980xe & 6800xt) better and thats enough reason for me but again that 52k graphic score on fire strike @ 170ish watts @ 42c on reference cooler like me gusta


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> I just spit out a perfectly good sip of 21 YO scotch! Good lord no filters.......slow them down some more as I think everything gets run on one CNC. Aquacomputer makes a decent one with isolation valves built in so you don't have to drain your loop. Just close the valves and put a small container (I use a sawed off spray can lid) to put under it when you pull the cover as just a little coolant is going to come out. Wash screen, wipe out inside with a paper towel, put screen back in, open valves and rock and roll! They come with a couple of spare screens too.
> 
> The stainless front can come off unless you are using it to mount or just like how it looks. They sell a bigger front piece if you want to go there with it too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer Filter with Stainless Steel Mesh, Ball Valves and Mounting Plate G1/4
> 
> 
> This filter unit from Aquacomputer has a great advantage in practicality compared to standard, more simple, filters. Two integrated valves allows easy cleaning of the filter without draining of the whole system. The stainless steel filter mesh with an exceptionally large surface area is...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com


Adding that filter to my loop dropped flow rate by 0.4GPM. So while it's good to add when first assembling the loop I wouldn't suggest keeping it in 24/7 not unless you have the pump power to overcome it.


----------



## dwolvin

Do either of you with the Aquacomputer filter happen to have it mounted without the stainless panel? I really want to incorporate one on my next rebuild, probably along with moving to rigid tube...


----------



## D-EJ915

JustinThyme said:


> If its X299 no back plate needed. For everything else they do come with a flimsy plastic backplate with double sided tape pre attached to plastic as the intel is a one for all and its either through the board for 1151 and a POS piece of plastic or the X299 goes right into the Mount that's on the board already. The diagram shows the X299 pretty good but not so well on 1151. Id buy something else, metal with a rubber gasket if that's what you are mounting to.


Neither of mine came with the plastic backplate but they really need to admit that backplates do actually help and include a proper metal one. Using their mounting solution without one will impact your overclock and cause instability, crashes and even ability to post. I gave it a shot on my z390/z490 and got exactly that with the same settings that work fine on my alphacool/techn blocks/mounts. Due to this I only use them for my HEDT 2011/2011-3/2066 boards now.


----------



## KedarWolf

zGunBLADEz said:


> Love how you try to defend ek so bad lol
> 
> ermmm im talking about graphic score dude  i see you like always jumping the gun lol... and in top of that is *only using 170 ish watts* for this graphic score that alone is pretty darn good
> View attachment 2488738
> 
> 42c tops on the stock reference cooler as well..
> 
> just for the kicks and just bcuz why not lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2488739
> 
> 
> 
> stock cooler as well im not even using a block lol my lowest undervolt for that is 112watts
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2488740
> 
> 
> 
> nvidia wut?? wheres the nuclear fusion at??
> Like i said that 3090 is an abomination of a card idk where nvidia find or dare to call perfxwatt at!!!!! lets not even talk about those transients that she do @ 500w at stock tdp.... Its like me running or trying to run the 7980xe at 1KHW at all times lol..
> 
> I dislike my 5900x as much as i dislike the 3080-3090 series... prefer my 7980xe over 500w than my 5900x @ 200-230watts..
> 
> cool them (7980xe & 6800xt) better and thats enough reason for me but again that 52k graphic score on fire strike @ 170ish watts @ 42c on reference cooler like me gusta


That's a custom run. You could have lowered the resolution, turned all antialiasing off, etc.

Let's see you do a normal full run.


----------



## LiquidHaus

dwolvin said:


> Do either of you with the Aquacomputer filter happen to have it mounted without the stainless panel? I really want to incorporate one on my next rebuild, probably along with moving to rigid tube...


I have an AC filter sitting in a box, ready to be used. However I am also trying to figure out how to properly run it with rigid tubing. You gotta access the back to turn the valves, yet the brackets seem to be designed around seeing only the front. I also have the 120mm plate for it. Might try and get some 2 inch spacers for each corner of the 120mm bracket, and raise the whole thing above a fan/radiator and experiment a bit with it.

I'll be moving my main rig into the Yuel Beast Atlas II pretty soon here, so I'll have a way different canvas to play with vs the O11D XL.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Adding that filter to my loop dropped flow rate by 0.4GPM. So while it's good to add when first assembling the loop I wouldn't suggest keeping it in 24/7 not unless you have the pump power to overcome it.


Getting 320L/hr so I have the pump to overcome it. Less restriction than anything else in my loop except the tubing. Mine came in handy a couple of months after the Sig V2 was installed. Watched my flow rate slowly go to half flow. I was like wutt da futt? Thought I lost a pump. Unplugged them one at a time and it only dropped more. Then there it is, nickel chunks in the screen. I didn’t record flow rate before and after. 3 D5s seem to do the job quite well with two more being added soon. Mines been in there 24x7, won’t run without it. If you don’t Have enough flow for a filter you don’t have enough pump power.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> Love how you try to defend ek so bad lol
> 
> ermmm im talking about graphic score dude  i see you like always jumping the gun lol... and in top of that is *only using 170 ish watts* for this graphic score that alone is pretty darn good
> View attachment 2488738
> 
> 42c tops on the stock reference cooler as well..
> 
> just for the kicks and just bcuz why not lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2488739
> 
> 
> 
> stock cooler as well im not even using a block lol my lowest undervolt for that is 112watts
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2488740
> 
> 
> 
> nvidia wut?? wheres the nuclear fusion at??
> Like i said that 3090 is an abomination of a card idk where nvidia find or dare to call perfxwatt at!!!!! lets not even talk about those transients that she do @ 500w at stock tdp.... Its like me running or trying to run the 7980xe at 1KHW at all times lol..
> 
> I dislike my 5900x as much as i dislike the 3080-3090 series... prefer my 7980xe over 500w than my 5900x @ 200-230watts..
> 
> cool them (7980xe & 6800xt) better and thats enough reason for me but again that 52k graphic score on fire strike @ 170ish watts @ 42c on reference cooler like me gusta


Who said anything about EK? My GPUs run heat killers. Half the score and that’s all you got? 🤣🤣🤣🤣

custom run at 460P?
Where’s your power graph?
Screen shots of a full run with a power graph or its BS.


----------



## JustinThyme

LiquidHaus said:


> I have an AC filter sitting in a box, ready to be used. However I am also trying to figure out how to properly run it with rigid tubing. You gotta access the back to turn the valves, yet the brackets seem to be designed around seeing only the front. I also have the 120mm plate for it. Might try and get some 2 inch spacers for each corner of the 120mm bracket, and raise the whole thing above a fan/radiator and experiment a bit with it.
> 
> I'll be moving my main rig into the Yuel Beast Atlas II pretty soon here, so I'll have a way different canvas to play with vs the O11D XL.


Yes, I’m running mine without.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

KedarWolf said:


> That's a custom run. You could have lowered the resolution, turned all antialiasing off, etc.
> 
> Let's see you do a normal full run.





JustinThyme said:


> Who said anything about EK? My GPUs run heat killers. Half the score and that’s all you got? 🤣🤣🤣🤣
> 
> custom run at 460P?
> Where’s your power graph?
> Screen shots of a full run with a power graph or its BS.


Oh gawd lol.

You asking me for power readings lol :rollseyes:

Im almost 60k without undervolting on the reference cooler xD


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> I have an AC filter sitting in a box, ready to be used. However I am also trying to figure out how to properly run it with rigid tubing. You gotta access the back to turn the valves, yet the brackets seem to be designed around seeing only the front. I also have the 120mm plate for it. Might try and get some 2 inch spacers for each corner of the 120mm bracket, and raise the whole thing above a fan/radiator and experiment a bit with it.
> 
> I'll be moving my main rig into the Yuel Beast Atlas II pretty soon here, so I'll have a way different canvas to play with vs the O11D XL.


I am hoping the new heatkiller rads are clean as they say they are. Going to do one last round kf block cleaning once they come in. Going to use mayhem xtr 4nm white so i won’t see issue anymore.


----------



## Lobstar

zGunBLADEz said:


> Oh gawd lol.
> 
> You asking me for power readings lol :rollseyes:
> 
> Im almost 60k without undervolting on the reference cooler xD


Why not just post a legit link instead of running your mouth? Fan boys are so cringe.


----------



## JustinThyme

zGunBLADEz said:


> Oh gawd lol.
> 
> You asking me for power readings lol :rollseyes:
> 
> Im almost 60k without undervolting on the reference cooler xD


OK, by your testing methods heres mine undervolted, underclocked and 150 watts. Oh crap, I didnt crop out my specs.


----------



## JustinThyme

Result not found







www.3dmark.com













I scored 26 605 in Time Spy


Intel Core i9-10980XE Extreme Edition Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti x 2, 65536 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}




www.3dmark.com













Result not found







www.3dmark.com





Heres legit links as it should be done.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I am hoping the new heatkiller rads are clean as they say they are. Going to do one last round kf block cleaning once they come in. Going to use mayhem xtr 4nm white so i won’t see issue anymore.


Id still clean them, just nothing too exteme like mayhems blitz. The old coca cola trick or white vinegar 50/50 with DW or straight up for 24 hours. Too much marketing says they come squeky clean like HW labs for example. I dont trust any of them and the only one I didn't get any goop out of was the MORA3 420. Everything else that was "Clean" bubbled out green goop just for starters then when I dumped it in a bowl OMG! the rinse with DW several times until when I dumped it nothing came out.


----------



## JustinThyme

D-EJ915 said:


> Neither of mine came with the plastic backplate but they really need to admit that backplates do actually help and include a proper metal one. Using their mounting solution without one will impact your overclock and cause instability, crashes and even ability to post. I gave it a shot on my z390/z490 and got exactly that with the same settings that work fine on my alphacool/techn blocks/mounts. Due to this I only use them for my HEDT 2011/2011-3/2066 boards now.


My first one did along with the springs in the mount kit that I tossed, worked better without them and better yet when they sent me the kit without springs. I wouldnt bother putting it in there anyhow. Anyone wants one I have it, and not worth putting on. Too many real metal backplates with rubber insulated to be had for like $10. As is with no back plate Id be afraid of screwing up the MOBO substrate on a board that requires through the MOBO mount. I made that mistake already with an EK MONOJUNK. (yes I was stupid enough to try it on the X299 too and its cooled the VRMS on the R6EE to under 40C even maxed out but sucked bawlz on the CPU cooling. Im betting a no name Amazon block would have cooled the CPU better. Didnt drop down into the 80s until I dropped my OC to 4.5 all cores on 10980XE. Get better than that with either optimus block and EK magnitude at 4.8 and about 3C higher with a Heakiller IV pro. Drop it to 4.7 and I stay around 75C under AVX workload with no offeset on foundation, SigV2 without oring ( 1-2C higher with Oring in) and EK magnitude and again 3C higher with HKIV pro.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I got an big group buy bill from heatkiller moment the rads are available. I got to collect up front payment too for those items too.


What are they offering. Ive not seen any marketing material. Guess Im not good at searching. Wouldnt mind trying a 420 if they have it.


----------



## Lobstar

I plugged my Raspberry Pi into a spare potato and managed this paltry score:


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> What are they offering. Ive not seen any marketing material. Guess Im not good at searching. Wouldnt mind trying a 420 if they have it.


Its only 120-480mm and 30mm/50mm. Comes in stainless steel, white and black. No marketing since there’s small items holding up the rads release (screws?)


----------



## LiquidHaus

+1 for cleaning the radiators regardless of what is stated/advertised. Never can be too careful with this stuff, and it's so worth it to put in that slight bit extra work vs dealing with the consequences of not.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

in the meantime in the msi 3080 this is what you get lol i have seen everything a plastic backplate with thermal pads on it like wow


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> in the meantime in the msi 3080 this is what you get lol i have seen everything a plastic backplate with thermal pads on it like wow
> View attachment 2488841


evga ftw3 one is bad too. Thats why linus etc testing is off. You need an thick backplate like optimus to do real testing. Even ekwb standard one was too thin imo.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Section31 said:


> evga ftw3 one is bad too. Thats why linus etc testing is off. You need an thick backplate like optimus to do real testing. Even ekwb standard one was too thin imo.


for that take the backplate off put active cooling case solved... like a regular fan would do a better job than that backplate alone


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Its only 120-480mm and 30mm/50mm. Comes in stainless steel, white and black. No marketing since there’s small items holding up the rads release (screws?)


I’d almost go for the 480 x50 had I not just invested a butt load of $$ in 140mm Noctua industrial 2000 and 3000 RPM fans, probably more than the rads cost although I do still have 4X of the 2000 rpm variety in 120mm flavor. Plan ATM is to yank the 480 from the EK 480XE from the basement that has 4X120 push only and move GTR 420 from top it case to the bottom and push pull it as well as yanking WK 360SE from the front and putting GTS 360 in its place then putting the blanking plate back in from mid to basement. 3x 140 Corsair QL 140s going up top pulling fresh air in (yeah I know heat rises) but that will put fresh filtered air dumping right onto my VRM heat sink. Then sucked back out through the 360 in the front. With the 420 in the bottom that gives me enough room to squeeze two more 140mm fans to aid in exhausting what the 420 put in the bottom chamber. One front and one back. Could probably go without but I think that will add more flow through the GTR 420. Then of course after pulling out a 480 fatty and a 360 skinny the MORA3 420 will be taking up the slack and then some. I don’t think I’m going to get any blazingly faster speeds but should get it to where it will run 4.8 all 18 cores and keep hottest core under 80 and do it much more quietly unless I’m stressing the crap out of it.
If I wasn’t close to putting the barn on the market when my oldest graduates (one more semester to finish a double major) and becomes gainfully employed I’d go and run more copper tubing down the wall and go back to the best cooling I’ve had that’s silent except when the PSU fans kicks on. Geothermal under the slab in the basement. Underfloor stainless heating grid buried in dirt that stays about 18C all year with res being a 5 gallon bucket in the basement with a 1/4 HP 120V pump sitting on top of activated by a relay with a 12V coil coming down from PC on a twisted pair from aqauaaero. I used that for several years until I moved my entire office space from a spare BR that was right across from a chase that runs from the basement to the attic to a 10x12 sitting area that’s part of the master suite. Wife’s decision. Had to have that “Spare Bedroom” that at first did actually have a queen bed in it but now has been reduced to a futon with craft stuff in bins everywhere and a much smaller desk she uses to do her hobbies. I asked her why she didn’t just do that in the place I’m set up now.......didn’t want to see the clutter and can close the door to the BR. LMAO.


----------



## JustinThyme

Lobstar said:


> I plugged my Raspberry Pi into a spare potato and managed this paltry score:
> View attachment 2488835


Dang Bruh!
I’m selling off everything and going to Pi(e) and potatoes!!! Use the crisper drawer in my fridge for a case and stack lettuce on top!


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I’d almost go for the 480 x50 had I not just invested a butt load of $$ in 140mm Noctua industrial 2000 and 3000 RPM fans, probably more than the rads cost although I do still have 4X of the 2000 rpm variety in 120mm flavor. Plan ATM is to yank the 480 from the EK 480XE from the basement that has 4X120 push only and move GTR 420 from top it case to the bottom and push pull it as well as yanking WK 360SE from the front and putting GTS 360 in its place then putting the blanking plate back in from mid to basement. 3x 140 Corsair QL 140s going up top pulling fresh air in (yeah I know heat rises) but that will put fresh filtered air dumping right onto my VRM heat sink. Then sucked back out through the 360 in the front. With the 420 in the bottom that gives me enough room to squeeze two more 140mm fans to aid in exhausting what the 420 put in the bottom chamber. One front and one back. Could probably go without but I think that will add more flow through the GTR 420. Then of course after pulling out a 480 fatty and a 360 skinny the MORA3 420 will be taking up the slack and then some. I don’t think I’m going to get any blazingly faster speeds but should get it to where it will run 4.8 all 18 cores and keep hottest core under 80 and do it much more quietly unless I’m stressing the crap out of it.
> If I wasn’t close to putting the barn on the market when my oldest graduates (one more semester to finish a double major) and becomes gainfully employed I’d go and run more copper tubing down the wall and go back to the best cooling I’ve had that’s silent except when the PSU fans kicks on. Geothermal under the slab in the basement. Underfloor stainless heating grid buried in dirt that stays about 18C all year with res being a 5 gallon bucket in the basement with a 1/4 HP 120V pump sitting on top of activated by a relay with a 12V coil coming down from PC on a twisted pair from aqauaaero. I used that for several years until I moved my entire office space from a spare BR that was right across from a chase that runs from the basement to the attic to a 10x12 sitting area that’s part of the master suite. Wife’s decision. Had to have that “Spare Bedroom” that at first did actually have a queen bed in it but now has been reduced to a futon with craft stuff in bins everywhere and a much smaller desk she uses to do her hobbies. I asked her why she didn’t just do that in the place I’m set up now.......didn’t want to see the clutter and can close the door to the BR. LMAO.


Well the rads aren’t out yet so you gave time to save


----------



## JustinThyme

KedarWolf said:


> That's a custom run. You could have lowered the resolution, turned all antialiasing off, etc.
> 
> Let's see you do a normal full run.


I’d say not only could have but did. Most likely 420p with AA off and every minimized with clocks maxed out and overvolt with no power limit pulling 500+ watts. If there were any results on 3D marks that showed anything close with reputable people posting honest results I’d be more likely to take his word but constant deflection without posting anything remotely close to proving the unbelievable is just more BS slinging. Ignored....done with even looking at anyone who ruins the rep of this otherwise fine forum where everyone knows it’s proof or it didn’t happen.


----------



## inedenimadam

zGunBLADEz said:


> the link of the valid result from the video


Your power draw is showing 1/2 stock TDP. Afterburner is not reporting correctly.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

inedenimadam said:


> Your power draw is showing 1/2 stock TDP. Afterburner is not reporting correctly.


I have the card undervolted its not shooting 1/2 tdp thats the real tdp at those undervolts.. Msi afterburner is the top reading and hwinfo is the Last one below it. Also amd driver tool is reading those watts as well... As a matter of fact i have the card with 350watts with the morepower tool without the need for the 15% slider. Need more voltage tho not just power. Amd locked this cards bad lol. They under volt awesome tho.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> its better than the optimus order complaints thats was going on for months.


I don’t know man. We see thing differently I guess. I’d prefer to see people’s opinions on a company’s product AND service. Even if it means sifting through dumb complaints then listening to two grown men act like children comparing dick size.


----------



## criskoe

So anyways.

I was thinking. If Evga releases a 3080ti FTW. Am I wrong to think that the existing optimus absolute block might actually fit it??? I mean the block already fits the 3080 and 3090. Obviously there is always a chance they revamp the whole card but I personally don’t feel like they will deviate from the existing board layout and design. I’d imagine it would be similar to the 3090 minus some ram chips. 

what your thoughts @Section31 ?


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> So anyways.
> 
> I was thinking. If Evga releases a 3080ti FTW. Am I wrong to think that the existing optimus absolute block might actually fit it??? I mean the block already fits the 3080 and 3090. Obviously there is always a chance they revamp the whole card but I personally don’t feel like they will deviate from the existing board layout and design. I’d imagine it would be similar to the 3090 minus some ram chips.
> 
> what your thoughts @Section31 ?


I suspect the same block should be usable. You looking at upgrading or downgrading?

I honestly would swap to 3080ti strix over ftw3, better card overall


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> I suspect the same block should be usable. You looking at upgrading or downgrading?
> 
> I honestly would swap to 3080ti strix over ftw3, better card overall


Up. I got a 3080 FTW ultra unopened sitting here. I was at first going to hold out for a Ti but had a opportunity to get the 3080 at the original msrp so I got it a little while back. Was kinda hoping to catch the evga “step it up” to be honest. It’s gunna be close on my 90 days if the rumours are true and they release mid May. The 3090 is too much card for me. 3080 Ti fits my usage better. 

Yeah I heard the strix is better. I don’t know. I like evga and them not causing a fuss about taking the card apart and watercooling it. I’ve always had good service from evga. Asus has been hit and miss for me. 

If the existing FTW block fits the Ti I will most likely just stay that route as I already have the block. If it doesn’t then maybe I’d consider jumping to strix if the Optimus strix block is actually available by then. Where I live I know I won’t take a loss on the 3080. But trying to sell the Optimus block won’t be easy where I live in Canada. At this point I’m gunna go the route with zero loss if you know what I mean.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Up. I got a 3080 FTW ultra unopened sitting here. I was at first going to hold out for a Ti but had a opportunity to get the 3080 at the original msrp so I got it a little while back. Was kinda hoping to catch the evga “step it up” to be honest. It’s gunna be close on my 90 days if the rumours are true and they release mid May. The 3090 is too much card for me. 3080 Ti fits my usage better.
> 
> Yeah I heard the strix is better. I don’t know. I like evga and them not causing a fuss about taking the card apart and watercooling it. I’ve always had good service from evga. Asus has been hit and miss for me.
> 
> If the existing FTW block fits the Ti I will most likely just stay that route as I already have the block. If it doesn’t then maybe I’d consider jumping to strix if the Optimus strix block is actually available by then. Where I live I know I won’t take a loss on the 3080. But trying to sell the Optimus block won’t be easy where I live in Canada. At this point I’m gunna go the route with zero loss if you know what I mean.


I get you. Remember with optimus you got maybe 1-2 month wait ontop of ordering so it may be better keeping the ftw3 block. I don’t see major difference in grand scheme. Basically you got to get next gen anyways in 2023/2024 so just use it honestly.

It only makes sense if you can make gains from reselling. My thoughts change daily but if i can finish rig by end of month i ain’t bothering with logic of 3080ti.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> No need, my apologies to anyone who took offense to me calling out 100% BS when I see it, no ego about it, just calling it like I see it, That's just me. I put him on my ignore list so I wont be reading the load of crap any longer or feel the need to call it out.....I wasn't the only one calling it out BTW.


You make ocn more interesting. This keeps us coming back. Unfortunate not so many of older individuals like you here. Great times in the x299 threads i remember.

Couple of you guys were talking about 50ish degree 7980xe on cinebench. Thats how i started considering an heatkiller mo-ra3 (was 360) and eventually got the 420 version.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> I get you. Remember with optimus you got maybe 1-2 month wait ontop of ordering so it may be better keeping the ftw3 block. I don’t see major difference in grand scheme. Basically you got to get next gen anyways in 2023/2024 so just use it honestly.
> 
> It only makes sense if you can make gains from reselling. My thoughts change daily but if i can finish rig by end of month i ain’t bothering with logic of 3080ti.


Yeah my block took about 6 weeks to ship. Which is fine. After the countless complaints on here I knew the wait I was getting into. I actually was expecting longer. Lol. But totally agree about waiting for the strix block. It’s not even a real product yet at this point and when it’s finally made I’d imagine they will sell out super fast for the first while and be hard to obtain. And then again risks of potential delays like fujipoly pad shortage or more covid issues ect ect. Who knows right. 

my best bet is to just hope the existing block I have works with a Ti and that I’m even able to obtain a Ti! Lmao. Actually getting a Ti is most likely gunna be the hardest part. Lol.


----------



## criskoe

JustinThyme said:


> No need, my apologies to anyone who took offense to me calling out 100% BS when I see it, no ego about it, just calling it like I see it, That's just me. I put him on my ignore list so I wont be reading the load of crap any longer or feel the need to call it out.....I wasn't the only one calling it out BTW.


it’s all good my dude.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Section31 said:


> Couple of you guys were talking about 50ish degree 7980xe on cinebench. Thats how i started considering an heatkiller mo-ra3 (was 360) and eventually got the 420 version.


LoL 50c? not him tho.. Thats when he said i was using a chiller :rollseyes:


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Yeah my block took about 6 weeks to ship. Which is fine. After the countless complaints on here I knew the wait I was getting into. I actually was expecting longer. Lol. But totally agree about waiting for the strix block. It’s not even a real product yet at this point and when it’s finally made I’d imagine they will sell out super fast for the first while and be hard to obtain. And then again risks of potential delays like fujipoly pad shortage or more covid issues ect ect. Who knows right.
> 
> my best bet is to just hope the existing block I have works with a Ti and that I’m even able to obtain a Ti! Lmao. Actually getting a Ti is most likely gunna be the hardest part. Lol.


Yeah. See my pm too lol.


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> LoL 50c? not him tho.. Thats when he said i was using a chiller :rollseyes:


One of those guys - jpmboy, thrashzone, etc. one was canadian winter, some were using chillers


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Section31 said:


> One of those guys - jpmboy, thrashzone, etc. one was canadian winter, some were using chillers


Thrash i think he lives in Texas so is kind of hot down there.. and the old geezer well long story short don't have no idea anyway on how power are measure from ac to dc and power dissipated as heat from the cpu itself etc and come here claiming stuff and such but they didnt have big rads back then. Jpmboy never put tests like that... he do owns chiller and big rads and stuff but he is very conservative when he do recommends stuff and is nowhere near that. He knows his stuff at the contrary of the geezer.

Im the one that lives in the north pole that uses chillers according to trash and him xD..
But the mora itself has nothing to do with it lol. Im in chicago  i dislike the mora myself it aint a performer. Its my benching rad i can move around easy tho. But, i have to be very careful what i dislike and say bcuz some geezers get offended quick lol.


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> Thrash i think he lives in Texas so is kind of hot down there.. and the old geezer well long story short don't have no idea anyway on how power are measure from ac to dc and power dissipated as heat from the cpu itself etc and come here claiming stuff and such but they didnt have big rads back then. Jpmboy never put tests like that... he do owns chiller and big rads and stuff but he is very conservative when he do recommends stuff and is nowhere near that. He knows his stuff at the contrary of the geezer.
> 
> Im the one that lives in the north pole that uses chillers according to trash and him xD..
> But the mora itself has nothing to do with it lol. Im in chicago  i dislike the mora myself it aint a performer. Its my benching rad i can move around easy tho. But, i have to be very careful what i dislike and say bcuz some geezers get offended quick lol.


Healthy debate. You guys are part of the niche group that does extreme watercooling. You guys all give me ideas on what i need to get better cooling and continue to experiment. I agree mo-ra3 isn’t top performer for external rad but an great support rad/portable test unit. I just didn’t want to spend much on additional rads while i wait for heatkiller rads.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Yeah the mora is quite pricey.. It has his caviats. Pros are better tho not at bad rad at all.. Hey i own one myself lol. But strictly performance talking a hwlabs 560 will eat for dinner a Mora.

Moraa are made for outside solution and quietness and accesorys and such.

Like i told the geezer if you want performance and can get creative you can do some of those hwlabs rads on a outside enclosure.. @LiquidHaus have nice "cheap" option now for those kind of rads..
It be nice some wallmounts brackets as well. @LiquidHaus 

My 1260 its like 4" away from the wall enough room to squeeze air arond itself and around 1khw load as "heat" no AC PULL lol.. my water DT is between 3-4c with low rpms fans.


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> Yeah the mora is quite pricey.. It has his caviats. Pros are better tho not at bad rad at all.. Hey i own one myself lol. But strictly performance talking a hwlabs 560 will eat for dinner a Mora.
> 
> Moraa are made for outside solution and quietness and accesorys and such.
> 
> Like i told the geezer if you want performance and can get creative you can do some of those hwlabs rads on a outside enclosure.. @LiquidHaus have nice "cheap" option now for those kind of rads..
> It be nice some wallmounts brackets as well. @LiquidHaus
> 
> My 1260 its like 4" away from the wall enough room to squeeze air arond itself and around 1khw load my water DT is between 3-4c with low rpms fans.


Always liked liquidhaus solution. I reccomended that to people considering external radiators. I will eventually go there i feel. Getting tired of buying rads every couple year to discard them away. It’s likely what the new heatkiller internal radiator will become if i go all optimus including rads and reservoir.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Section31 said:


> Always liked liquidhaus solution. I reccomended that to people considering external radiators. I will eventually go there i feel. Getting tired of buying rads every couple year to discard them away. It’s likely what the new heatkiller internal radiator will become if i go all optimus including rads and reservoir.


I try to do a hybrid solution myself when i build..
so i dont have to depend of the outside support .. If i move around it it have his own loop. But thats me.

Right now im building around the new cm ITX case. My goal even if i have to put it outside the top of the case is either a xt45 or the UT60 it needs to have his own loop with his own pump+reservoir. I could just put the cold plates and use my external solution but i need those quick disconnects. Im using the rad as the in/out on parallel. But if you only have one loop/pc the solution you said ia the best.

Having the rad outside alone with direct fresh intake is where the 80% of the gains are at..


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> I try to do a hybrid solution myself when i build..
> so i dont have to depend of the outside support .. If i move around it it have his own loop. But thats me.
> 
> Right now im building around the new cm ITX case. My goal even if i have to put it outside the top of the case is either a xt45 or the UT60 it needs to have his own loop with his own pump+reservoir. I could just put the cold plates and use my external solution but i need those quick disconnects. Im using the rad as the in/out on parallel. But if you only have one loop/pc the solution you said ia the best.
> 
> Having the rad outside alone with direct fresh intake is where the 80% of the gains are at..


Mine is modular build. I won’t need the mo-ra on unless its summer time. Three hk 360mm 50mm (whenever i get them) should be enough. I hope the rads are close to gtx performance but low resistance. My internal system is borderline line on high flow resistance (three qd4, one d5 next, optimus gpu and cpu block). Adding the mo-ra3 makes an big dent into flow rate.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Thats why you need an extra pump maybe with a reservoir.

If you connect it in parallel you wont get hit with the flow.. pressure alone plus that extra pump its a given. My tube rune to the outside so far is like 10-15feet of tubbing alone one way. That goes in parallel to one of the rads on my x299 xt45 she does have 3 . is a lil bit expensier but in the long run is worth it. I dont mind the expense like that.. Now, $400+ for a block solution i can only use in one thing alone no.

Btw, with this kind of setup you will get rid of bubbles like it aint a joke.


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> Thats why you need an extra pump maybe with a reservoir.
> 
> If you connect it in parallel you wont get hit with the flow.. pressure alone plus that extra pump its a given. My tube rune to the outside so far is like 10-15feet of tubbing alone one way. That goes in parallel to one of the rads on my x299 xt45 she does have 3 . is a lil bit expensier but in the long run is worth it. I dont mind the expense like that.. Now, $400+ for a block solution i can only use in one thing alone no.


Im going triple d5 (from dual d5) as part of my planned group buy with heatkiller. Make the mo-ra3 dual d5 to counter flow resistance hit and can run the d5 next at lower setting


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Then use one of those for the outside rad. you wont need dual d5 for the outside rad... if you use 1x pump for the outside rad a regular d5 L2/L3 is enough to move water in a parallel connection which gets help with the pressure builded already instead of relying in one pump for the whole thing.....Everything i have including the chiller has his own pump for that sole reason so i dont get into flow issues or relying on only one pump.. 

They also sell koolance 405S pumps which are true 24v performers the regular d5 and varios etc they accept 24v but flow aint the same. Those are the ones i use. You will need a STEPUP from 12v to 24v and a pwn controller for example. They can run at 12v tho but dont expect 24v performance..

They sell the stepup on ebay or amazon etc.. I got a few of them 100w little things @24v you aint doing a dent probably can run 2 of those in one STEPUP i think i measured around 40w thing wasnt even hot.


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

I've been looking into pumps lately. Koolance's PMP600 looks like a beast although it's not advertised as quiet. Might be fun to play with before shelling out the bucks for an Iwaki or something else as nuts.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Voodoo Rufus said:


> I've been looking into pumps lately. Koolance's PMP600 looks like a beast although it's not advertised as quiet. Might be fun to play with before shelling out the bucks for an Iwaki or something else as nuts.


i will go for the 405S myself bcuz you can use tops/reservoirs made for d5 vs pmp600 unless you need to do a very long run lol


PMP-600


Maximum Flow Rate: 20L/min (5.3 gal/min)
Maximum Head Pressure: 11m (36ft)
Motor: Brushless DC
Power Consumption (at max): 52W
Voltage Range: 8 to 24 VDC
Maximum Temperature: 75°C (167°F)
Electrical Connector: 4-pin Molex power supply connection + 3-pin (single lead) tach
Hose Connections: G 1/4 BSPP Threads
Noise: Less than 50dBA
Weight: 454g (1lbs)
405S



Maximum Flow Rate: 12L/min (3.2 gal/min) @ 12V, *20L/min (5.3 gal/min) @ 24V*
Maximum Head Pressure: 3.2m (10.5ft) @ 12V, *6m (19.7ft) @ 24V*
Motor: Brushless DC, electronically commutated, spherical motor
Power: 8-24VDC, 3-50W, 0.13-2.1A
Startup Voltage: 9 to 13.2 VDC
Maximum System Pressure: 3.5 kgf/cm2 (50 PSI)
Maximum Temperature: 60°C (140°F)
Electrical Connector: 4-pin Molex power supply connection + 3-pin (single lead) tach
Hose Connections: 13mm (1/2in) ID hose barbs
Wetted Materials: PPO, Carbon/Allumina Ceramic, EPDM or Viton, 316 SS
Noise: Less than 40dBA
Weight: 862g (1.9lbs)
MTBF 50k hours


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> No need, my apologies to anyone who took offense to me calling out 100% BS when I see it, no ego about it, just calling it like I see it, That's just me. I put him on my ignore list so I wont be reading the load of crap any longer or feel the need to call it out.....I wasn't the only one calling it out BTW.


see your pm.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

im sorry but i cant just help it lol
_> _>
<_<_
180w tdp* Graphics Score 17,270 *








I scored 16 944 in Time Spy


AMD Ryzen 9 5900X, AMD Radeon RX 6800 XT x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}




www.3dmark.com





Average temperature on reference cooler 45 °C


----------



## Darb

I was also wondering what motor set up for my next build I am collecting parts for. Looking at a custom case built from a motherboard tray. 2 External Black Ice Nemesis GTX 560 rads. Each rad is in an independent system. One Optimus 8.5" D5 reservoir per rad. One rad cooling the GPU and the other cooling the CPU. A good friend is a CNC wood master so together we are working on the case and rad enclosure. My question is will I need to run 2 pumps per system or would one be enough.


----------



## Biggu

Darb said:


> I was also wondering what motor set up for my next build I am collecting parts for. Looking at a custom case built from a motherboard tray. 2 External Black Ice Nemesis GTX 580 rads. Each rad is in an independent system. One Optimus 8.5" D5 reservoir per rad. One rad cooling the GPU and the other cooling the CPU. A good friend is a CNC wood master so together we are working on the case and rad enclosure. My question is will I need to run 2 pumps per system or would one be enough.


Honestly unless you are running crazy long lines you will be fine with a single,


----------



## Section31

Darb said:


> I was also wondering what motor set up for my next build I am collecting parts for. Looking at a custom case built from a motherboard tray. 2 External Black Ice Nemesis GTX 580 rads. Each rad is in an independent system. One Optimus 8.5" D5 reservoir per rad. One rad cooling the GPU and the other cooling the CPU. A good friend is a CNC wood master so together we are working on the case and rad enclosure. My question is will I need to run 2 pumps per system or would one be enough.


Take an look at heatkiller new internal radiators. Otherwise wait for Optimus. I can't believe how good priced the heatkiller rads and if you can get 400 euro order, its free shipping. Not too hard.


----------



## Darb

Section31 said:


> Take an look at heatkiller new internal radiators. Otherwise wait for Optimus. I can't believe how good priced the heatkiller rads and if you can get 400 euro order, its free shipping. Not too hard.


Not sure if they are offering a 560 sized radiator. I already have one GTX. Just waiting for re stock. The GTX scores very high for low RPM cooling which is why I went with them.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Section31 said:


> Take an look at heatkiller new internal radiators. Otherwise wait for Optimus. I can't believe how good priced the heatkiller rads and if you can get 400 euro order, its free shipping. Not too hard.


Seeing as Optimus seems to have completely given up in this thread, are you seeing the new Heatkiller radiators on their site? Post a link here.

I'm not seeing the prices lol.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Seeing as Optimus seems to have completely given up in this thread, are you seeing the new Heatkiller radiators on their site? Post a link here.
> 
> I'm not seeing the prices lol.


Let Optimus focus on its think tank and get ahead on production. I just hope Optimus can continue to work on new products. More Fittings, Rads, Reservoir, Quick Disconnect, you name it.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> see your pm.


Read it, thanks!


----------



## Jsunn

Hello All,

Been a while since I posted, but I had a couple of questions about the Optimus FTW3 block.

I have the FTW3 UG 3090 with my Optimus Block installed and it has been performing great. 

I just had to send my card back to EVGA for RMA, so I pulled the block off and a number of the thermal pads were pretty tore up.

The huge thermal pad on the backplate of course showed some indentions from being installed but seems ok. 

Does anyone know if I can purchase replacement pads for the front of the card? If so, what are the specs, brands, size etc that I would need to replace the pads on the front of the card?

Can I purchase a Fujipoly pad to replace the one on the back of the card? Or is it ok to run the used one I have?

When my replacement card gets back I'd like to have a fresh set of thermal pads for the waterblock.

Thanks for your help!
J


----------



## Section31

Jsunn said:


> Hello All,
> 
> Been a while since I posted, but I had a couple of questions about the Optimus FTW3 block.
> 
> I have the FTW3 UG 3090 with my Optimus Block installed and it has been performing great.
> 
> I just had to send my card back to EVGA for RMA, so I pulled the block off and a number of the thermal pads were pretty tore up.
> 
> The huge thermal pad on the backplate of course showed some indentions from being installed but seems ok.
> 
> Does anyone know if I can purchase replacement pads for the front of the card? If so, what are the specs, brands, size etc that I would need to replace the pads on the front of the card?
> 
> Can I purchase a Fujipoly pad to replace the one on the back of the card? Or is it ok to run the used one I have?
> 
> When my replacement card gets back I'd like to have a fresh set of thermal pads for the waterblock.
> 
> Thanks for your help!
> J


Unfortunately some of us asked and were in same situation. Answer is no, shortage of 3mm fujipoly that size. The backplate thermal pads should be fine to us there. There are replacement pads available for the front pads.

Amazon carries the front pad though


----------



## Jsunn

For the front pads, do you have the specs for them? I'd like to get a set of replacement pads in advance. 
We're you able to purchase them?


----------



## Section31

Jsunn said:


> For the front pads, do you have the specs for them? I'd like to get a set of replacement pads in advance.
> We're you able to purchase them?


amazon search fujipoly 0.5mm 6w/mk or 13w/mk fujipoly mod/smart

mod/smart Fujipoly Premium G-M Thermal Pad - 60 x 50 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 6.0 W/mK Amazon.com: mod/smart Fujipoly Premium G-M Thermal Pad - 60 x 50 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 6.0 W/mK: Computers & Accessories

Fujipoly/mod/smart Premium G-M Thermal Pad - 100 x 15 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 6.0 W/mK Amazon.com: Fujipoly/mod/smart Premium G-M Thermal Pad - 100 x 15 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 6.0 W/mK: Computers & Accessories

Fujipoly/mod/smart Ultra Extreme XR-m Thermal Pad - 100 x 15 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 17.0 W/mK Amazon.com: Fujipoly/mod/smart Ultra Extreme XR-m Thermal Pad - 100 x 15 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 17.0 W/mK: Computers & Accessories


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Darb said:


> I was also wondering what motor set up for my next build I am collecting parts for. Looking at a custom case built from a motherboard tray. 2 External Black Ice Nemesis GTX 580 rads. Each rad is in an independent system. One Optimus 8.5" D5 reservoir per rad. One rad cooling the GPU and the other cooling the CPU. A good friend is a CNC wood master so together we are working on the case and rad enclosure. My question is will I need to run 2 pumps per system or would one be enough.


are you using both systems full 100% every time tho? to me its like wasted rad space using one rad each to be honest.. even silence will suffer as you have 2 rads together less fan noise .... i would put all together instead on one pump..Also, you will save alot of money that way


----------



## Jsunn

@Section31 Thank you very much for the information!

So it looks like all of the pads on the front are the same thickness, then it just comes down to how much I want to spend to get the higher W/mK pads for all of the components. Do you recommend any particular pad for the different components? 

Thank you very much for your help!
-Jason


----------



## Section31

Jsunn said:


> @Section31 Thank you very much for the information!
> 
> So it looks like all of the pads on the front are the same thickness, then it just comes down to how much I want to spend to get the higher W/mK pads for all of the components. Do you recommend any particular pad for the different components?
> 
> Thank you very much for your help!
> -Jason


I have no experience on that. Some of our other users could help you there


----------



## criskoe

@Jsunn 

If replacing the pads I’d personally go for the mid 13 W/mk level pad not the crazy 17 one. The higher ones are way too expensive IMO and I don’t think it will be much better then the 13’s. Another thing I would consider is they originally shipped with Fuji pads and when you disassembled it the pads ripped causing you to want to re pad it. So in other words if you ever have to disassemble it again for let’s say cleaning. The pads will probably rip again and do you want to replace them yet again with top pads? I don’t know. I wouldn’t. That’s way too expensive for what I’d bet is minimal gain. Just my train of thought. 

I’m not sure which pads the block comes with but I doubt it’s the 17 W/mk. 

I’d stick with the 13 W/mk ones. That’s what I’d do.


----------



## cyberscott

So, I got my EVGA RTX 3090 FTW3 Ultra block in today. Block feels solid and heavy, very nice quality! This replaced my Bykski block which I had fitting issues with. (Back plate was warped!)
The Optimum block fit perfect. Under load, it kept the card between 10-12 degrees C above the water temperature while the Bykski block was closer to 21 degrees above water temp at full load.
Memory temps are also much better, nearly 23C cooler than the Bykski.
For those keeping track, my order # was OP3834, purchased on March 12th. It was shipped on April 30th and arrived on May 4th. It should have been here on May 3rd but had been delayed one day due to severe weather in my region. My own belief when I purchased it was about a two month wait so I got it a bit earlier than what I was expecting. 
I hope everyone can get theirs soon!


----------



## dwolvin

Really nice looking, has anyone heard anything about black gaskets being available sometime? White looks nice, but I can't imagine it won't discolor eventually.


----------



## criskoe

dwolvin said:


> Really nice looking, has anyone heard anything about black gaskets being available sometime? White looks nice, but I can't imagine it won't discolor eventually.


Black gaskets are available right now. You just have to ask for them. I have one coming via post right now with a replacement top for my scratched foundation.

Don’t ask for them on here tho. Message their direct email.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Mine is modular build. I won’t need the mo-ra on unless its summer time. Three hk 360mm 50mm (whenever i get them) should be enough. I hope the rads are close to gtx performance but low resistance. My internal system is borderline line on high flow resistance (three qd4, one d5 next, optimus gpu and cpu block). Adding the mo-ra3 makes an big dent into flow rate.


Im kinda going that route with the MORA. Quick connects with a bypass (short piece of tubing with two more male quick connects) so its a matter of seconds to add or remove it from the loop without having to worry about coolant drain or loss of more than maybe a drop. Supposed to be none. Still want cooling in the case but Im going to be kicking it back a few notches and when I need it a matter of seconds to enable the fans on the MORA and plug in the coolant lines.


Definitely summer but that puppy should pump out some astounding OCs sitting in my window in the winter!


----------



## Lobstar

JustinThyme said:


> Quick connects with a bypass (short piece of tubing with two more male quick connects) so its a matter of seconds to add or remove it from the loop


Just to save you a set of QDCs: Use a male QDC on the 'input' side and a female on the 'output' side. This way, when you go to bypass you can just connect the lines together if they are long enough. I did this for my second system.


----------



## JustinThyme

Lobstar said:


> Just to save you a set of QDCs: Use a male QDC on the 'input' side and a female on the 'output' side. This way, when you go to bypass you can just connect the lines together if they are long enough. I did this for my second system.


I thought about that but I'm not leaving lines dangling out the back. Its going through a PCIE slot adaptor that's female threads on both sides. Hard pipe inside and female quick connects (shorter of the two) on the outside with the males being on the ends of the lines coming from the MORA. Only other way to leave them dangling would be to chop up a $900 case or leave the middle plate out, which will screw up my airflow plan, and run them down and around back where I have rubber grommets already which the 10 ft USB extension I already have ( for running a QUADRO) and relay output from aquaero is going to close the ATX on for a second PSU or just a long a$$ 12V homemade molex extension. That part is still up in the air. I have more than one spare PSUs laying around and a twisted pair of thermostat wire on a relay output of the aquaero 6 pro can turn on the other PSU on the 24pin ATX power on pins to run the pumps and fans on the MORA. 

That though did cross my mid though.....just making it work would be harder than a piece of short tube with male ends on it. I was tempted to use a knock out kit and punch two holes but then decided against it. Probably go out the bottom slot as i have no intention of using the bottom PCIE slot for anything else unless its popping the two 900P AIC drives I have collecting dust. Dunno just yet. First step is getting the GPUs back horzontal, moving top rad to bottom and just having fans up top and removing middle rad and putting blank back in to the air from the bottom rad exits the back and front of the basement. Ill see what kind of room I have down there when I pull the 480 out thats down there now. May be enough to fit one of the drive cages and if thats the case everything is liable to change. right now Im using the right side of the MOBO for 4 drives and a serial pump top but theres another insert to put in the same spot that will hold a 360 rad or just fans. Thats the good thing about the Phanteks Enthoo elite. Everything you need for any configuration you can run with the case comes with it. No ordering more parts.


----------



## Shawnb99

Going on two weeks waiting for my replacement coldplate. Not happy with the shipping time at all.


----------



## criskoe

Shawnb99 said:


> Going on two weeks waiting for my replacement coldplate. Not happy with the shipping time at all.


My replacement stuff was shipped out via USPS international to Canada so I’m sure I will be waiting a good while aswell. USPS to Canada post is always snail mail for me. It’s been a week for me and the tracking number shows it’s still somewhere in the USPS network in the US. I’m personally not in a big rush so it’s no big deal but in other circumstances and if this was important system down time that would suck!


----------



## Shawnb99

criskoe said:


> My replacement stuff was shipped out via USPS international to Canada so I’m sure I will be waiting a good while aswell. USPS to Canada post is always snail mail for me. It’s been a week for me and the tracking number shows it’s still somewhere in the USPS network in the US. I’m personally not in a big rush so it’s no big deal but in other circumstances and if this was important system down time that would suck!



Yep damn USPS. So slow with tracking. Hasn't been updated since May 1st. All RMA's should be sent express.


----------



## Lobstar

JustinThyme said:


> <Insert QDC plan here>


The other plan I had was to use a ball valve between the 'in' side and the 'out' side of the case-side QDCs. That way when I planned to remove the external rad I could just flip the ball valve open then remove the QDCs. This would eliminate the need for the bypass tube in your setup too. I was exploring this junk because I absolutely hate draining my loop so just bouncing the ideas I had out into the void incase they work for you too. I have 6 sets of QDCs on my single loop with one set for each system and one set for the MORA3/Little Giant so I was really trying to limit the amount I was spending on those as they get expensive REALLY fast. 

Since we're already discussing them anyway, I'm really happy with the Koolance QD3 if you don't already have your heart set on something. I like having hex nut to use with a wrench for easy connecting and the disconnects themselves have yet to make a noticeable drop of water leak out when the pumps are off. I haven't been brave enough to try it with pumps running but I'm sure it wouldn't be too horrible.


----------



## andy0x2a

I have a second-hand optimus foundation AMD block (nickel plated), and I am assembling my first custom loop after coming from an AIO.
Since the waterblock is second-hand, I have no documentation or instructions for it. It came dissasembled, and I am not sure if I put it together correctly. I can't even find instructions for which port is inlet and which port is output (not marked on the block to the best of my knowledge).

Is there a specific orientation for the fins as well as the inlet/output? which port is inlet (the one with the ramp coming off it?

Also, can someone please point me to any docs around th waterblock, as I can't find much on the optimus website.

(I am seeing about a +5c diference under load over an AIO with this block and 600mm of rads, so I suspect I may have the orientation wrong).


----------



## dwolvin

Inlet is the one with the slot on the inside (toward the center of the fins) and the fins go in line with the pair of fittings, if that helps.
















Foundation CPU Block - AMD (AM5, AM4)


Optimus CPU water block for AMD Ryzen 7950x and 7000 series CPUs (Zen 4 generation, AM5 socket).




optimuspc.com




Some good pics there


----------



## Section31

andy0x2a said:


> I have a second-hand optimus foundation AMD block (nickel plated), and I am assembling my first custom loop after coming from an AIO.
> Since the waterblock is second-hand, I have no documentation or instructions for it. It came dissasembled, and I am not sure if I put it together correctly. I can't even find instructions for which port is inlet and which port is output (not marked on the block to the best of my knowledge).
> 
> Is there a specific orientation for the fins as well as the inlet/output? which port is inlet (the one with the ramp coming off it?
> 
> Also, can someone please point me to any docs around th waterblock, as I can't find much on the optimus website.
> 
> (I am seeing about a +5c diference under load over an AIO with this block and 600mm of rads, so I suspect I may have the orientation wrong).


The inlet is noticable. You can see it on the main webpage. It's the one that has connection directly to center of block. Follow that image on the website and you should be right.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Inlet is the one with the slot on the inside (toward the center of the fins) and the fins go in line with the pair of fittings, if that helps.
> View attachment 2489529
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Foundation CPU Block - AMD (AM5, AM4)
> 
> 
> Optimus CPU water block for AMD Ryzen 7950x and 7000 series CPUs (Zen 4 generation, AM5 socket).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> optimuspc.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some good pics there


The actual block was mine at one point. It's one of the blocks that used Optimus own locking mechanism before they replaced it with screws that could use the existing backplate. One of the first to develop what i now found out recently was stuff in the system easily sticking onto optimus cpu blocks cold plate and that resulted in me ending up replacing all my rads with new heatkiller internal ones.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> My replacement stuff was shipped out via USPS international to Canada so I’m sure I will be waiting a good while aswell. USPS to Canada post is always snail mail for me. It’s been a week for me and the tracking number shows it’s still somewhere in the USPS network in the US. I’m personally not in a big rush so it’s no big deal but in other circumstances and if this was important system down time that would suck!


At least cheaper and lower risk of taxes


----------



## JustinThyme

Lobstar said:


> The other plan I had was to use a ball valve between the 'in' side and the 'out' side of the case-side QDCs. That way when I planned to remove the external rad I could just flip the ball valve open then remove the QDCs. This would eliminate the need for the bypass tube in your setup too. I was exploring this junk because I absolutely hate draining my loop so just bouncing the ideas I had out into the void incase they work for you too. I have 6 sets of QDCs on my single loop with one set for each system and one set for the MORA3/Little Giant so I was really trying to limit the amount I was spending on those as they get expensive REALLY fast.
> 
> Since we're already discussing them anyway, I'm really happy with the Koolance QD3 if you don't already have your heart set on something. I like having hex nut to use with a wrench for easy connecting and the disconnects themselves have yet to make a noticeable drop of water leak out when the pumps are off. I haven't been brave enough to try it with pumps running but I'm sure it wouldn't be too horrible.


QD3s are what I bought, matte black to blend in with everything else. That's not a bad idea with the ball valve. I have a couple laying around brand new that I bought and was going to use them for isolation on the inline filter I was using before I bought the aqauacomputer filter with the valves built in. At least that will put them one of them to use. Damn Bitspower ball valves are like $35 each. Only one I have in ATM is at my drain port in the bottom. Will depend on spacing on the PCIE adapter. May be able to get away with it with a couple of Tee's and a short nipple from adapter to tee with short side of tee's facing each other and ball valve between.


----------



## andy0x2a

Thanks for all the advice.

It turns out that I have the fins orthogonal to the flow, instead of parallel.

I'm not sure how much performance is impacted by this, but I'll order some new thermalpaste and redo the orientation.

Thanks again for the advice, I appreciate it.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Going on two weeks waiting for my replacement coldplate. Not happy with the shipping time at all.


Slow boat via Shanhai. Dont know where you are but when they sent me a replacement It was immediate contact and apology and it was USPS priority and I had it two days later from Chi Town to Princeton, NJ They have changed since then though. At that point it was just CPU blocks. Then they introduced fittings followed by Reservoirs and GPU blocks. I think they took on more than that one CNC machine can chew. I get not a separate machine for every part. You have to be pushing some serious volume just to get your money back on the machines. But they should be running more than they are now. From things Ive heard them say they are wasting a half a day on changing out set up on that machine. Dont know what they have but anything modern its mostly a matter of dumping a program into it and someone to load raw material and unload finished parts and deburr what they just pulled while the next one is running. I did a shot stint in a wheel foundry that did casting followed by machining with 3 machines in each cell. Then they had cold roll for the corvette wheels. When they switched products it was a matter of changing out dies in the casting machines and dumping a different program into a PLC and CNCs in each cell from a PC in an office. Change production in 20 mins, the die change out was the hardest as You have to wait for whats in there to cool down to pull the previous run out then heat up the machine without a die in it so you could get the next dies in and bolted down. Furnace melting aluminum ran 24x7 th3en transfer with a big ladle into a heated holding tank under every casting machine. They would run down the row and by the time they got to the end it was time to go back to the first and fill it back up. They managed to keep them cranking. The only thing that really took time was the heat treat just before machining but the oven and quench tank was massive and load up about 500 wheels at a time on trees.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC What's the latest on the KPE block? How much longer we looking at? About to install the Hydro block but rather not go through the hassle if your block is anytime soon.


----------



## iamjanco

@Optimus WC I'll second what he 🠕🠕🠕 asked 

The Hydro Copper block is subpar.


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> The Hydro Copper block is subpar.


So very subpar I don't even really want to install it.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> So very subpar I don't even really want to install it.


Put it on reddit lol. Don’t forget to mention i am going optimus one instead. Watch those idiots there start asking about your kingpin.


----------



## dwolvin

Hydro copper that bad? poor construction, or poor performance?


----------



## Shawnb99

poor performance. Hydrocopper has never been a great performing block.
like a 12c-17c delta. I expect Optimus to blow that away


----------



## acoustic

Isn't your Kingpin just sitting in a box for weeks now? Man, put that hydrocopper on and actually enjoy the PC for a bit! 12-17c delta is a lot better than any air cooler or hybrid, and I'm sure with your setup and being meticulous, you'll be on the low-end of that delta.


----------



## dwolvin

^this right here...


----------



## Biggu

I feel like Optimus doesn't respond here anymore.


----------



## Shawnb99

acoustic said:


> Isn't your Kingpin just sitting in a box for weeks now? Man, put that hydrocopper on and actually enjoy the PC for a bit! 12-17c delta is a lot better than any air cooler or hybrid, and I'm sure with your setup and being meticulous, you'll be on the low-end of that delta.


It came out for a few days and then went right back into the box. Had to RMA my MB then I ordered custom cables so I tore it all down to make it as clean as I can. At this rate Optimus will have the block out before I'm done


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> I feel like Optimus doesn't respond here anymore.


Let them fix there product and r&d lol


----------



## inedenimadam

Shawnb99 said:


> poor performance. Hydrocopper has never been a great performing block.
> like a 12c-17c delta. I expect Optimus to blow that away


I agree and disagree. Optimus will probably be a better block, but the HC is far from a bad performer. I haven't had a chance to sit down with it and give it the 1000W leg stretch, but I did play some CP2077 and topped out at like 35C in a 22C ambient. I guess that technically falls within your range of 12-17C, but how much better do you expect the optimus to be? 13C is pretty good at 450-500W IMO. I certainly have had much worse performing waterblocks over the years.


----------



## Shawnb99

inedenimadam said:


> I agree and disagree. Optimus will probably be a better block, but the HC is far from a bad performer. I haven't had a chance to sit down with it and give it the 1000W leg stretch, but I did play some CP2077 and topped out at like 35C in a 22C ambient. I guess that technically falls within your range of 12-17C, but how much better do you expect the optimus to be? 13C is pretty good at 450-500W IMO. I certainly have had much worse performing waterblocks over the years.


Least 5c if not better is what I'm hoping for. Plus the Optimus one is sure to look better. The Hydro isn't a bad block but it's never been a great block or the best performing block


----------



## JustinThyme

A good block for a GPU is less than 10C delta. 5C delta Id doubt is obtainable unless you are talking about idle. I get 8C delta on heavily loaded and and overclocked to the limit of the chips on a pair of 2080Tis with Heat Killer blocks with passive back plates that make contact on backside of Chip, VRMs and memory modules. I found on my cards power limit was not much of a limiting factor. Flashed them both with ASUS XOC bios with no power limit and they didn’t improve. 2160 is it. I get that with the standard BIOS with an occasional power limit knocking them back to 2145 and a rare 2130. so flashed them back to stock BIOS on the Quiet position and left the XOC on the normal position for giggles. I normally leave it on the stock BIOS. Even with power limit removed they don’t touch 1000W each. With 100% SLI scaling under heavy load two of them will hit 1000 watts combined but not one.

I can’t speak for the Corsair blocks. All I know is that entire division came to be from people who left EK. I won’t venture to say designs followed but I’d bet my left testicle that at least some of tech migrated with the defectors. Right now none of the top performers are putting out much of anything but FE for 30XX. Stix cards always seem to be last for whatever reason. I know the 2080Ti strix kicked their a$$es with the one choke turned 90 degrees. Didn’t make sense to me until later when the Matrix was released. They use the same PCB and reportedly higher binned memory and chips but everything else is identical. The reason that one choke on the secondary VRMs is turned 90 degrees is to allow for the mounting of the Matrix cold plate.

regardless my 2080Tis will do a bit better than the stock Matrix OC. Some Matrix cards may do a bit better as they as supposed to be better binned chips.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> A good block for a GPU is less than 10C delta. 5C delta Id doubt is obtainable unless you are talking about idle. I get 8C delta on heavily loaded and and overclocked to the limit of the chips on a pair of 2080Tis with Heat Killer blocks with passive back plates that make contact on backside of Chip, VRMs and memory modules. I found on my cards power limit was not much of a limiting factor. Flashed them both with ASUS XOC bios with no power limit and they didn’t improve. 2160 is it. I get that with the standard BIOS with an occasional power limit knocking them back to 2145 and a rare 2130. so flashed them back to stock BIOS on the Quiet position and left the XOC on the normal position for giggles. I normally leave it on the stock BIOS. Even with power limit removed they don’t touch 1000W each. With 100% SLI scaling under heavy load two of them will hit 1000 watts combined but not one.
> 
> I can’t speak for the Corsair blocks. All I know is that entire division came to be from people who left EK. I won’t venture to say designs followed but I’d bet my left testicle that at least some of tech migrated with the defectors. Right now none of the top performers are putting out much of anything but FE for 30XX. Stix cards always seem to be last for whatever reason. I know the 2080Ti strix kicked their a$$es with the one choke turned 90 degrees. Didn’t make sense to me until later when the Matrix was released. They use the same PCB and reportedly higher binned memory and chips but everything else is identical. The reason that one choke on the secondary VRMs is turned 90 degrees is to allow for the mounting of the Matrix cold plate.
> 
> regardless my 2080Tis will do a bit better than the stock Matrix OC. Some Matrix cards may do a bit better as they as supposed to be better binned chips.


I agree on founders. This launch was bungled for gpu blocks because of reference pcb issue. 99% i buy founders if its reference pcb and most companies would have had blocks for it. Lot of us had no choice but one of strix/ftw3/xc3 and other reference cards because of this. I hope next launches are more like previous ones

Had nvidia etc just took damn backorders i don’t think the situation would be as bad. As long as the money was refundable it would have been fine. They created an worst hoarding/speculation environment. Same with Amd.


----------



## JustinThyme

Between China hoarding 80% of the silicon produced and the failure to protect against bots and scalping with a simple captcha this has been the worst release in history. I like having the latest tech and admittedly update more often than needed but not with this sh!t show going on. I’d just as soon be running a 6700K and 980Ti. Oh wait, I already have one of those running and it’s fine on 1080P.


----------



## acoustic

Ew, 1080p.

If I didn't have a ton of time off after a deployment to sit my ass outside the PA Microcenter at 3am on 3 separate days, I wouldn't have a 3080 either. I wasn't really upset with my 2080TI anyway; that card was an OCing monster.

The camping outside was the first time I'd ever done that for anything besides the Halo 3 release. It was actually a really good time hanging with some fellow nerds, and all of us ganging up on the obvious scalpers and kicking them off the line. Fun times lol


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Between China hoarding 80% of the silicon produced and the failure to protect against bots and scalping with a simple captcha this has been the worst release in history. I like having the latest tech and admittedly update more often than needed but not with this sh!t show going on. I’d just as soon be running a 6700K and 980Ti. Oh wait, I already have one of those running and it’s fine on 1080P.


Hoarding is just part of the ugly side of human nature. It’s just part of whats gotten worse and worse. I truly hope the world can unite and better share resources amongst us all and treat it eachother equally and fairly.


----------



## dwolvin

I hope for the Star Trek future, but expect Blade Runner/Alien...


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Hoarding is just part of the ugly side of human nature. It’s just part of whats gotten worse and worse. I truly hope the world can unite and better share resources amongst us all and treat it eachother equally and fairly.


***** What world do you live in? This will never happen. Human nature has only gotten more selfish and entitled. Things will only get worse and worse for us


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> *** What world do you live in? This will never happen. Human nature has only gotten more selfish and entitled. Things will only get worse and worse for us


Well lets enjoy our optimus products instead. We want to see those rads, glass reservoir, more fittings, cpc colder lq6 quick disconnect, even your own cases too.


----------



## iamjanco

Section31 said:


> *Well lets enjoy our optimus products instead. *We want to see those rads, glass reservoir, more fittings, cpc colder lq6 quick disconnect, even your own cases too.


A lot of us probably will.

(karma: unless something likes Ceres decides to move through Earth's atmosphere)


----------



## Section31

So i give up on hwl rads, i just cleaned out the gpu block again since i am returning the xr7 rad to amazon. Guess what still lot of stuff just not noticeable. This time i had mothergold car polish to use though


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Hoarding is just part of the ugly side of human nature. It’s just part of whats gotten worse and worse. I truly hope the world can unite and better share resources amongst us all and treat it eachother equally and fairly.


Yeah all we can do is hope.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC Tomorrow will be 2 weeks since my replacement cold plate was shipped and is still stuck with no tracking updates. Not happy at all with this BS. No excuse why this wasn't sent express.


----------



## iquit040

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC What's the latest on the KPE block? How much longer we looking at? About to install the Hydro block but rather not go through the hassle if your block is anytime soon.


I'll buy your HC block... cannot stand this damn ugly AIO sitting outside my case... been waiting on Optimus to drop theirs but they have been silent ever since they talked about the sli fingers really.


----------



## Lobstar

I know intel folks get better scores in these benches but I finally started getting decent results.
Port Royal: I scored 15 595 in Port Royal
Time Spy (Gfx: 23191): I scored 21 861 in Time Spy


----------



## Shawnb99

iquit040 said:


> I'll buy your HC block... cannot stand this damn ugly AIO sitting outside my case... been waiting on Optimus to drop theirs but they have been silent ever since they talked about the sli fingers really.


I'll let you know when I decide. .


----------



## HyperMatrix

inedenimadam said:


> I agree and disagree. Optimus will probably be a better block, but the HC is far from a bad performer. I haven't had a chance to sit down with it and give it the 1000W leg stretch, but I did play some CP2077 *and topped out at like 35C in a 22C ambient.* I guess that technically falls within your range of 12-17C, but how much better do you expect the optimus to be? 13C is pretty good at 450-500W IMO. I certainly have had much worse performing waterblocks over the years.


Lies. You did not top out at 35C with 22C ambient with the Hydro Copper block if you were at full load. That statement is patently false. 500W~ draw at 4K with RT and you're telling me you were topping out at just 13C above ambient? You know how I know that's a lie? Because I bought and tested the FTW3 Hydro Copper block. And it got significantly hotter than that even with 21C water temps and dual D5 pumps. And the FTW3 and Kingpin HC blocks aren't very different. They're both awful. Which is why I didn't even bother attempting to buy one on launch. The block is barely any better than using the hybrid AIO cooler with upgraded fans.

Just to be clear: The Hydro Copper block from EVGA/Asetek is actual trash. Lower quality/performance than Bykski/other chinese blocks. It looks good, admittedly. But it is a terrible block. It also DOESN'T EVEN COME WITH A BACK PLATE. And EVGA is charging $300 USD for it. It's absolute trash. If it were selling for $150-$200 I'd give it a pass. But an ultra premium price for a garbage block like that isn't something I can sit back and keep quiet about. Especially since as I mentiond...NO BACKPLATE...and if you decide/planned to hard mount a ram block to the backplate to cool your card, you've now voided your warranty because the card would have to be returned to its original condition to return it. This is something that wouldn't happen if you bought a block from anyone else with an actual backplate. Not to mention the backplate does a terrible job of cooling the back of the card.

I'm past the point of being disappointed and entered rage mode after seeing EVGA pull that crap.


----------



## inedenimadam

HyperMatrix said:


> Lies. You did not top out at 35C with 22C ambient with the Hydro Copper block if you were at full load. That statement is patently false. 500W~ draw at 4K with RT and you're telling me you were topping out at just 13C above ambient? You know how I know that's a lie? Because I bought and tested the FTW3 Hydro Copper block. And it got significantly hotter than that even with 21C water temps and dual D5 pumps. And the FTW3 and Kingpin HC blocks aren't very different. They're both awful. Which is why I didn't even bother attempting to buy one on launch. The block is barely any better than using the hybrid AIO cooler with upgraded fans.
> 
> Just to be clear: The Hydro Copper block from EVGA/Asetek is actual trash. Lower quality/performance than Bykski/other chinese blocks. It looks good, admittedly. But it is a terrible block. It also DOESN'T EVEN COME WITH A BACK PLATE. And EVGA is charging $300 USD for it. It's absolute trash. If it were selling for $150-$200 I'd give it a pass. But an ultra premium price for a garbage block like that isn't something I can sit back and keep quiet about. Especially since as I mentiond...NO BACKPLATE...and if you decide/planned to hard mount a ram block to the backplate to cool your card, you've now voided your warranty because the card would have to be returned to its original condition to return it. This is something that wouldn't happen if you bought a block from anyone else with an actual backplate. Not to mention the backplate does a terrible job of cooling the back of the card.
> 
> I'm past the point of being disappointed and entered rage mode after seeing EVGA pull that crap.


Big mad, I see. Yeah, playing CP2077 big overclock was 35C. I don't have a reason to lie, but I also wasn't taking hard numbers. The block certainly isn't God gift to GPUs or anything. I'm in Miami for a few days. When I get home I'll run some more and log data instead of just checking temps in RTSS to get a clear picture of what the block is doing.


----------



## Shawnb99

Still no tracking update.


----------



## criskoe

Shawnb99 said:


> Still no tracking update.


Myn shows up in Canada post system now. It’s on the long journey from Mississauga to Vancouver. Lol. Also Canada Post says expected delivery date is this Friday the 14th.

Try entering your USPS tracking number into Canada post. Worked for me.


----------



## Shawnb99

criskoe said:


> Myn shows up in Canada post system now. It’s on the long journey from Mississauga to Vancouver. Lol. Also Canada Post says expected delivery date is this Friday the 14th.
> 
> Try entering your USPS tracking number into Canada post. Worked for me.


Thanks wasn’t aware that would work.
Still hasn’t reached Canada yet. Hasn’t left Chicago since the 1st


----------



## itssladenlol

HyperMatrix said:


> Lies. You did not top out at 35C with 22C ambient with the Hydro Copper block if you were at full load. That statement is patently false. 500W~ draw at 4K with RT and you're telling me you were topping out at just 13C above ambient? You know how I know that's a lie? Because I bought and tested the FTW3 Hydro Copper block. And it got significantly hotter than that even with 21C water temps and dual D5 pumps. And the FTW3 and Kingpin HC blocks aren't very different. They're both awful. Which is why I didn't even bother attempting to buy one on launch. The block is barely any better than using the hybrid AIO cooler with upgraded fans.
> 
> Just to be clear: The Hydro Copper block from EVGA/Asetek is actual trash. Lower quality/performance than Bykski/other chinese blocks. It looks good, admittedly. But it is a terrible block. It also DOESN'T EVEN COME WITH A BACK PLATE. And EVGA is charging $300 USD for it. It's absolute trash. If it were selling for $150-$200 I'd give it a pass. But an ultra premium price for a garbage block like that isn't something I can sit back and keep quiet about. Especially since as I mentiond...NO BACKPLATE...and if you decide/planned to hard mount a ram block to the backplate to cool your card, you've now voided your warranty because the card would have to be returned to its original condition to return it. This is something that wouldn't happen if you bought a block from anyone else with an actual backplate. Not to mention the backplate does a terrible job of cooling the back of the card.
> 
> I'm past the point of being disappointed and entered rage mode after seeing EVGA pull that crap.


^this 

The block has over 20C Delta.
35c my ass.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Thanks wasn’t aware that would work.
> Still hasn’t reached Canada yet. Hasn’t left Chicago since the 1st


Things are slow. My order from modmymods just showed reached montreal after one week.


----------



## JohnnyFlash

Mine delivers today. Now I just have to find the equally mythical 280GTS.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Things are slow. My order from modmymods just showed reached montreal after one week.


Meh I have no sympathy. My cables from Cablemod that were ordered on the 2nd managed to get made and arrive here just fine. It's because they likely chose the cheapest shipping options so USPS is takes it sweet ass time with it.
Still should of been sent next day or express, I shouldn't have to wait for a replacement on a defective part.
I wouldn't be surprised if my cables from Titan Rig get here first


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Meh I have no sympathy. My cables from Cablemod that were ordered on the 2nd managed to get made and arrive here just fine. It's because they likely chose the cheapest shipping options so USPS is takes it sweet ass time with it.
> Still should of been sent next day or express, I shouldn't have to wait for a replacement on a defective part.
> I wouldn't be surprised if my cables from Titan Rig get here first


Titanrigs is fast. Make sure to choice fedex international economy not ground


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Titanrigs is fast. Make sure to choice fedex international economy not ground


Too late already chose ground. Oh well


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> Too late already chose ground. Oh well


USPS ground shipping from Titanrigs took nearly 3 weeks to arrive. On the plus side...0 duties/taxes. Admittedly if I knew it was going to take nearly 3 weeks I'd have paid the extra $8 or whatever to get express shipping.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> USPS ground shipping from Titanrigs took nearly 3 weeks to arrive. On the plus side...0 duties/taxes. Admittedly if I knew it was going to take nearly 3 weeks I'd have paid the extra $8 or whatever to get express shipping.


What's more unfortunate for custom cables, titan rigs is really only option. I'm still chasing down beyond customs to send my stuff eventhough i no longer need it after doing titan rigs order and perxon uk lemo avaitor cable.


----------



## iamjanco

Section31 said:


> What's more unfortunate for custom cables, titan rigs is really only option. I'm still chasing down beyond customs to send my stuff eventhough i no longer need it after doing titan rigs order and perxon uk lemo avaitor cable.


*Ensourced* is still around. Joey's done good work for me in the past.


----------



## inedenimadam

HyperMatrix said:


> Lies. You did not top out at 35C with 22C ambient with the Hydro Copper block if you were at full load. That statement is patently false. 500W~ draw at 4K with RT and you're telling me you were topping out at just 13C above ambient?


Sorry to quote you a second time. It was worth a revist.

Tested with several back to back runs of 470-490W (It did trigger pwr throttle, but didn't poll 500+W) Port Royal Benchmarks 14C MAX h20-GPU Core delta. Mostly sat at 12C-13C. T-Sensor placement in the loop may have a small effect on a lower than expected delta, because it is positioned after both the CPU and GPU but before the radiator. T_sensors can also be off by a couple C. It may be that I have a better case scenario for showing a low delta due to variables that are different in our two set ups. 

I didn't bother geeking out for15k because I know that drivers, windows, and 3dmark have all had an update since my last 15k runs. Monitoring software was also running, as well as a host of other background processes that I would normally kill. I just yolo'd some voltage with classy tool and bumped sliders to known good configs.












HyperMatrix said:


> But an ultra premium price for a garbage block like that isn't something I can sit back and keep quiet about. I'm past the point of being disappointed and entered rage mode after seeing EVGA pull that crap.


Again, I don't think its garbage, but it certainly shouldn't be a $300 block and it is pretty lame that for that much money it doesn't even include the backplate. 

I wish I had the patience to wait for a block from Optimus, but I didn't/don't. My rig is in a server rack, and the AIO was not conducive to a clean set up at all. I NEEDED a block the day I bought the card, and had already waited long enough.


----------



## HyperMatrix

inedenimadam said:


> Tested with several back to back runs of 470-490W (It did trigger pwr throttle, but didn't poll 500+W) Port Royal Benchmarks 14C MAX h20-GPU Core delta. Mostly sat at 12C-13C.


Help me understand what I'm looking at. I'm seeing current GPU1 temp of 20C and max temp of 39C meaning ambient temp below 20C and a delta between GPU temp and ambient temp of 20C+. What am I missing here? How are you deriving a 13C delta when I'm seeing 20C+? How is 39C on GPU1 and 44C on GPU2 sensor considered good with ambient below 20C when you said your card is only pulling 470-490W? My AIO kingpin hybrid block with 3x Delta fans swapped in would max out at around 41-43C when pulling just 470-490W.


----------



## inedenimadam

HyperMatrix said:


> Help me understand what I'm looking at. I'm seeing current GPU1 temp of 20C and max temp of 39C meaning ambient temp below 20C and a delta between GPU temp and ambient temp of 20C+. What am I missing here? How are you deriving a 13C delta when I'm seeing 20C+? How is 39C on GPU1 and 44C on GPU2 sensor considered good with ambient below 20C when you said your card is only pulling 470-490W? My AIO kingpin hybrid block with 3x Delta fans swapped in would max out at around 41-43C when pulling just 470-490W.












I didn't realize it would be hard to follow. The Green circles (idle) are to show what I meant in my last post about a T_sensor being off: GPU is reporting lower than water temp, a -1C delta is impossible, yet that is what is being reported . The red is the hottest the loop and the core got, which is reading 14C Delta. The purple is to show that I was running right around the top of TDP for the 520W bios. The absolute worst the delta got is 14C, it generally runs 12-13C.

With just the AIO, I regularly got into low 50s because the radiator placement was far from ideal and I did not replace the fans. Again, the block is not gods gift to watercooling, but it isn't the worst ive seen either. It performs fine. It knocked off 15ish C from the AIO, and allowed me to run in the MORA-3 loop to close up the rack. It serves its purpose and doesn't suck. It is just horribly overpriced for what is in the box.


----------



## HyperMatrix

inedenimadam said:


> View attachment 2490272
> 
> 
> I didn't realize it would be hard to follow. The Green circles (idle) are to show what I meant in my last post about a T_sensor being off: GPU is reporting lower than water temp, a -1C delta is impossible, yet that is what is being reported . The red is the hottest the loop and the core got, which is reading 14C Delta. The purple is to show that I was running right around the top of TDP for the 520W bios. The absolute worst the delta got is 14C, it generally runs 12-13C.
> 
> With just the AIO, I regularly got into low 50s because the radiator placement was far from ideal and I did not replace the fans. Again, the block is not gods gift to watercooling, but it isn't the worst ive seen either. It performs fine. It knocked off 15ish C from the AIO, and allowed me to run in the MORA-3 loop to close up the rack. It serves its purpose and doesn't suck. It is just horribly overpriced for what is in the box.


One of us is very confused here. Let’s try to clarify this another way through a series of questions:

1) Does your GPU show a minimum temp of 19C and current temp of 20C after your runs in that pic?

2) Does your GPU show a max temp of 39C for GPU1 and 44C for GPU2 temperature sensors?

3) Do you agree that if your GPU is at 19C during idle, your water temperature would have to be 19C or colder?

4) Do you agree that if your water is 19C, that your air has to be 19C or colder?

If the answer to those questions is Yes, then you’re actually getting more than a 20C delta above ambient temperature since ambient has to be colder than water temperature which has to be colder than your GPU idle temperature which is 19C.

If the answer to any of those questions is no, please explain why.

Also as a side note, the fans that came with the Kingpin Hybrid were even weaker than the ones that came with the FTW3 Hybrid. They were just 2.4W each. That’s why you’re seeing such an uplift going to the block. Not because the block is good. But because of just how awful the hybrid fans were. I replaced them with 21W 4000RPM Delta fans and was literally staring at 41-43C during a 500-520W Port Royal 2190MHz run. You’re confusing the effect of switching to proper fans in your loop with the effect of having the EVGA block. Had you given the same fan treatment to the Hybrid cooler, you’d realize just how bad the block is.


----------



## criskoe

His Picture shows a delta of 14C. Delta of the water temp... Not what the ambient temp is in the room.


----------



## HyperMatrix

criskoe said:


> His Picture shows a delta of 14C. Delta of the water temp... Not what the ambient temp is in the room.


He originally stated he was getting 13C above ambient. And even in his picture, his sensor reading means nothing. If the actual loop water temperature was 21-25C, his card wouldn’t be idling at 19-20C. The GPU idle tells us what temperature the water would have to be colder than. It’s not 13C delta above ambient as he originally claimed, and it’s not 14C ambient above water temperature either. It’s 20C+ above his water temperature.

As I’ve said repeatedly...trash block.


----------



## acoustic

Bringing up the GPU2 temp as if that matters at all lol

I think his T_Sensor is off. If the GPU is idling 19c, then his water temp is 19 or lower. However, his water temp gets up to 25 (maybe really 24?) So 39-24 = 15c, which isn't bad. You're basing his load GPU temp off his idle water temp. The water warming up is not a fault of the block.


----------



## criskoe

HyperMatrix said:


> He originally stated he was getting 13C above ambient. And even in his picture, his sensor reading means nothing. If the actual loop water temperature was 21-25C, his card wouldn’t be idling at 19-20C. The GPU idle tells us what temperature the water would have to be colder than. It’s not 13C delta above ambient as he originally claimed, and it’s not 14C ambient above water temperature either. It’s 20C+ above his water temperature.
> 
> As I’ve said repeatedly...trash block.


I don’t know man. One thing for certain tho. That rooms gotta be COLD. That’s defiantly not in a hot climate for sure. One of the cpu sensors read 15C? Wow. Basement rads or chiller maybe? Who knows. Don’t care. Lol. Either way I wouldn’t buy that evga block for 300 dollars and especially if it’s just temporary and going to get replaced anyways.


----------



## Shawnb99

criskoe said:


> I wouldn’t buy that evga block for 300 dollars and especially if it’s just temporary and going to get replaced anyways.


When you can scalp it on Ebay for $700 why not? I doubt I'll be taking a loss on mine anytime soon


----------



## criskoe

Shawnb99 said:


> When you can scalp it on Ebay for $700 why not? I doubt I'll be taking a loss on mine anytime soon


Hey well if that’s possible then why not. Not sure who on earth would pay 700 dollars but man these crazy days! 700 Canadian rupees maybe. Lol.


----------



## Shawnb99

criskoe said:


> Hey well if that’s possible then why not. Not sure who on earth would pay 700 dollars but man these crazy days! 700 Canadian rupees maybe. Lol.


$700 is the highest I've seen it. My point is because of it's limited release I'll be able to resell it for a profit for a very long time.


----------



## Section31

Just sell it and see what happens. Just like 3090 buyers looking to buy 3080ti buyers then resell 3090s


----------



## Lobstar

HyperMatrix said:


> He originally stated he was getting 13C above ambient.


Ah, yes. As we all know only the waterblock is responsible for exchanging heat into the ambient air. Great observation. He's probably a bit overkill though with a D5 on the intake AND the exhaust isn't he? /s


----------



## HyperMatrix

criskoe said:


> I don’t know man. One thing for certain tho. That rooms gotta be COLD. That’s defiantly not in a hot climate for sure. One of the cpu sensors read 15C? Wow. Basement rads or chiller maybe?


Yeah exactly. He said he had 23C ambient toom temp and then I’m looking at idle GPU temps at 19C. I’m no Elon Musk but it’s pretty easy OC knowledge that no component can ever be colder than the water in the loop. And water in a loop can’t get colder than ambient air temperature no matter how many radiators, fans, and pumps you have. So he’s likely got water temps at 17-18C. Ambient probably around 14-16C. And says the EVGA block is good because he’s hitting 39-44C with freaking 15C~ ambient temps. Or a delta of around 22-25C. And he’s posted on several threads now that his block gets 12-13C above ambient. Lol. 




criskoe said:


> Hey well if that’s possible then why not. Not sure who on earth would pay 700 dollars but man these crazy days! 700 Canadian rupees maybe. Lol.


Careful now. $1.00 USD is just $1.21 CAD right now. And I remember just over a decade ago $1 USD was only around $0.90 CAD. God bless the man in charge of the country right now who shall not be named so as to not get into politics. 



Shawnb99 said:


> $700 is the highest I've seen it. My point is because of it's limited release I'll be able to resell it for a profit for a very long time.


For what it’s worth, it’s a very attractive block. Mad props to them on the aesthetics.




Lobstar said:


> Ah, yes. As we all know only the waterblock is responsible for exchanging heat into the ambient air. Great observation. He's probably a bit overkill though with a D5 on the intake AND the exhaust isn't he? /s


Did you actually read any of my comments or did you just decide to go ahead and waste our time while embarrassing yourself?


----------



## inedenimadam

HyperMatrix said:


> Yeah exactly. He said he had 23C ambient toom temp and then I’m looking at idle GPU temps at 19C.


Yes, unusually chilly night for Georgia, but not enough that I turned the heat back on. Air Conditioning is set to 23C, so that is usually what the room is.





HyperMatrix said:


> And says the EVGA block is good because he’s hitting 39-44C with freaking 15C~ ambient temps. Or a delta of around 22-25C. And he’s posted on several threads now that his block gets 12-13C above ambient. Lol.


delta over ambient is not the metric that is important for watercooling, nobody uses it because its loop temp that matters. go look at my last post, I stated h20 not ambient. the block gets 12-13C delta, it hit 14C briefly, but mostly stays at 12-13 over water. You really have a hard on for hating EVGA, but I legitimately don't see any other manufacturers with blocks on the market, and max delta 14C is good enough for me. YMMV.


----------



## itssladenlol

inedenimadam said:


> Yes, unusually chilly night for Georgia, but not enough that I turned the heat back on. Air Conditioning is set to 23C, so that is usually what the room is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> delta over ambient is not the metric that is important for watercooling, nobody uses it because its loop temp that matters. go look at my last post, I stated h20 not ambient. the block gets 12-13C delta, it hit 14C briefly, but mostly stays at 12-13 over water. You really have a hard on for hating EVGA, but I legitimately don't see any other manufacturers with blocks on the market, and max delta 14C is good enough for me. YMMV.


14C Delta is not possible on the ****ty kingpin Block without liquid Metal and sanding. 
Everyone i know has atleast 20C Delta. 
Here im sitting with optimus and 6C Delta at 480w 😂


----------



## HyperMatrix

inedenimadam said:


> Yes, unusually chilly night for Georgia, but not enough that I turned the heat back on. Air Conditioning is set to 23C, so that is usually what the room is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> delta over ambient is not the metric that is important for watercooling, nobody uses it because its loop temp that matters. go look at my last post, I stated h20 not ambient. the block gets 12-13C delta, it hit 14C briefly, but mostly stays at 12-13 over water. You really have a hard on for hating EVGA, but I legitimately don't see any other manufacturers with blocks on the market, and max delta 14C is good enough for me. YMMV.


Once again with the lies. Your delta over water temperature is AT LEAST 20C based on the screenshot you showed us. I don’t give a rats bottom what you set your AC to or what one of your temperature sensors is reporting. I see your GPU idling at 19C meaning water is 19C or colder. I see your max temp hitting 39C on GPU1. 39 - 19 = 20C. Hence AT LEAST 20C delta over your water temperature.

I bought an FTW3 Hybrid, FTW3 Hydro Copper, and KingPin Hybrid. It’s not that I have a hard on for hating EVGA. It’s that you’re being a fanboy and repeatedly lying about the performance of a garbage block.


----------



## Section31

Anyone know if this will work. Testing out various proof of concepts for my internal rad setup (once the new rads come in)


----------



## Shawnb99

Make the hardline section soft tube would be my suggestion. Not sure if you'll have enough room to remove the the QDC's without removing the 90 degree. Going soft for just that section should work depending on the tubing.


----------



## iamjanco

So anyway, has anyone heard anything more recently about an Optimus block for the 3090 KPE?


----------



## Shawnb99

I asked today via email when discussing my replacement coldplate. I'll update you if I hear anything.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> I asked today via email when discussing my replacement coldplate. I'll update you if I hear anything.


Hopefully you aren't holding your breath, if you are let us know so we know where to send the ambulance.
In the beginning when it was just the CPU blocks they did a decent job in getting them out and with communication. My sig V2 was shipped the following day USPS priority and when I had the cold plate nickel plating peeling off of the fins it was the same service, immediate with good communications. When they added reservoirs, fittings and GPU blocks everything went to hell and they forgot the hand basket. Up shyte creek, never mind the paddles, they forgot the boat! . I kinda get it, why keep responding when you have nothing different to say as every conceivable response has already been given multiple times.


----------



## Lobstar

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2490359
> 
> 
> Anyone know if this will work. Testing out various proof of concepts for my internal rad setup (once the new rads come in)


Is that a hard tube and fittings with a QDC? I'm not sure if you are trolling or not lol. That looks like a Koolance QDC. My QDC3s are recessed and require a the male end to be inserted about 3.22mm into the female end. I'm not sure where you are going to get the extra 3.22mm of play in a hard line setup.

Edit: I even measured with the wrong thought pattern. Overall length of my QDCs disconnected but touching is 86.4mm. Add the 3.22mm assuming minimum clearance for connections to be moved into position. When joined properly for installation the QDCs are 10.55mm shorter in total length so you are looking at 13.77mm of play total just to get the minimum amount of clearance to connect them.


----------



## Lobstar

HyperMatrix said:


> Did you actually read any of my comments or did you just decide to go ahead and waste our time while embarrassing yourself?


The only one embarrassing themselves is you bud. It seems the rest of us understand what's being said just fine without losing our ****.


----------



## KedarWolf

Lobstar said:


> The only one embarrassing themselves is you bud. It seems the rest of us understand what's being said just fine without losing our ****.


If you want I'll spank them, I really don't mind.


----------



## Lobstar

KedarWolf said:


> If you want I'll spank them, I really don't mind.


Don't threaten them with a good time!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Lobstar said:


> The only one embarrassing themselves is you bud. It seems the rest of us understand what's being said just fine without losing our ****.


If you don't know 39 - 19 = 20 that's on you.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> Is that a hard tube and fittings with a QDC? I'm not sure if you are trolling or not lol. That looks like a Koolance QDC. My QDC3s are recessed and require a the male end to be inserted about 3.22mm into the female end. I'm not sure where you are going to get the extra 3.22mm of play in a hard line setup.
> 
> Edit: I even measured with the wrong thought pattern. Overall length of my QDCs disconnected but touching is 86.4mm. Add the 3.22mm assuming minimum clearance for connections to be moved into position. When joined properly for installation the QDCs are 10.55mm shorter in total length so you are looking at 13.77mm of play total just to get the minimum amount of clearance to connect them.


Only testing stuff out, actual connection lengh is to be measured when i get the radiators. It's an QD4 and i technically also have these ready as alternative so i can connect one side as hard tube and other as softtube. I would love to use QD3 but i am going to get serious flow issues as my system has 4 QD connection in place if the external Mo-Ra3 is used (3 if not). Bitspower Matte Black 90-Degree With Dual Rotary Inner G1/4" Extender I'm generally overloaded with fittings for various options in general. The second option using the dual rotary inner g1/4 was my fallback solution though i prefer nicer straight tubing.


----------



## acoustic

HyperMatrix said:


> If you don't know 39 - 19 = 20 that's on you.


What's 39 - 25?


----------



## HyperMatrix

acoustic said:


> What's 39 - 25?


Are you implying that his water temperature was 25C when his GPU was sitting at 19C?


----------



## acoustic

HyperMatrix said:


> Are you implying that his water temperature was 25C when his GPU was sitting at 19C?


No. His water temperature was 25c (maybe 23-24c since his T_Sensor seems to read a little high) when his GPU was at 39c. I think everyone has realized when he says ambient he's referring to water temp. The ambient temperature in comparing the block performance would only be useful if his water temp never increased over ambient temp.

Water temp delta to ambient = radiator/flow/loop performance. Water temp to component(block) temp = block performance. The water temp is the only delta that matters to judge the block..

It's ridiculous you've dragged this on two pages now and insulted the guy when he's not even making a ridiculous claim. He's even said the block is too expensive at $300 and not the best performer. Get over yourself man.


----------



## criskoe

🍿🤣


----------



## HyperMatrix

acoustic said:


> No. His water temperature was 25c (maybe 23-24c since his T_Sensor seems to read a little high) when his GPU was at 39c. I think everyone has realized when he says ambient he's referring to water temp. The ambient temperature in comparing the block performance would only be useful if his water temp never increased over ambient temp.
> 
> Water temp delta to ambient = radiator performance. Water temp to component(block) temp = block performance. The water temp is the only delta that matters to judge the block..


I don't agree with you especially since he's made other posts recently where he's using delta over ambient to refer to room temperature, but that's really not the issue at hand so there's no point arguing over that. This is about the actual delta between max gpu temp and his water temp. His water sensor is showing 25C max while GPU1 was at 39C and GPU2 was at 44C. So you would assume that there is a 14C delta with GPU1. However...as you have also noted...the reading is high. How do we know this? Because while his minimum water sensor reading was 21C, his minimum GPU temperature was 19C. If the gpu is at 19C minimum, the _actual_ water temp would have had to be 18C at best. So if we subtract the 3C minimum error from his sensor reading, that would leave us with at least a 17C delta. Not 14C. 

Why is this significant? For 2 reasons. Part of which is that his card was only using 470-490W as he stated. So an average of 480W on a card with a 520W limit. If you look at my first reply to his claim, I told him those numbers are a lie and he wasn't getting these temperatures at full load. That turned out to be true. Not only was it not at full load, as he was only at 92% of his power limit, but the actual delta itself was incorrect and is about 17C+ delta over his water temperature compared to the 13C he initially claimed. If you don't think there's a significant difference between a 13C-14C delta at full load and a 17C+ delta at 92% load, then I don't know what to tell you other than EVGA is selling an amazing block for $300 that you should go buy ASAP.


----------



## acoustic

Literally no one has said it's an amazing block. I think you've created that statement in your head to justify the tirade you've gone on.


----------



## HyperMatrix

acoustic said:


> Literally no one has said it's an amazing block. I think you've created that statement in your head to justify the tirade you've gone on.


So you're saying I should have left his statement unchecked and let people believe the $300 block from EVGA with no backplate was getting 13C delta over water temp at full load instead of the actual 17C+ at 92% load?


----------



## criskoe

Shawnb99 said:


> I asked today via email when discussing my replacement coldplate. I'll update you if I hear anything.


So my replacement foundation top and black gpu block gaskets actually showed up today. Was shipped may 1st. And I’m Canada far west. So if your tracking number still shows Chicago USA I think it’s pretty safe to say it’s lost.  hope they resolve it quick.


----------



## Lobstar

HyperMatrix said:


> If you don't know 39 - 19 = 20 that's on you.


Reading comprehension isn't a strong point with you is it? He addressed that when describing the accuracy of his sensors. You are just cherry picking your data points to save face in your losing 'battle'. Why are you fighting this so hard? Are the lives of your children at stake?


----------



## Lobstar

Section31 said:


> Only testing stuff out, actual connection lengh is to be measured when i get the radiators. It's an QD4 and i technically also have these ready as alternative so i can connect one side as hard tube and other as softtube. I would love to use QD3 but i am going to get serious flow issues as my system has 4 QD connection in place if the external Mo-Ra3 is used (3 if not). Bitspower Matte Black 90-Degree With Dual Rotary Inner G1/4" Extender I'm generally overloaded with fittings for various options in general. The second option using the dual rotary inner g1/4 was my fallback solution though i prefer nicer straight tubing.


I only had the QD3 on hand for measuring. I think your solution with the soft tube on one side is the only answer that will be viable.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> I only had the QD3 on hand for measuring. I think your solution with the soft tube on one side is the only answer that will be viable.


Thanks.


----------



## JustinThyme

acoustic said:


> No. His water temperature was 25c (maybe 23-24c since his T_Sensor seems to read a little high) when his GPU was at 39c. I think everyone has realized when he says ambient he's referring to water temp. The ambient temperature in comparing the block performance would only be useful if his water temp never increased over ambient temp.
> 
> Water temp delta to ambient = radiator/flow/loop performance. Water temp to component(block) temp = block performance. The water temp is the only delta that matters to judge the block..
> 
> It's ridiculous you've dragged this on two pages now and insulted the guy when he's not even making a ridiculous claim. He's even said the block is too expensive at $300 and not the best performer. Get over yourself man.


I don’t buy a liquid temp at idle of 25C (or 23-24) when the ambient was stated to be 24C. Reading though all of it the math just isn’t adding up and contradictory more than once even to a casual observer.


----------



## JustinThyme

Lobstar said:


> I only had the QD3 on hand for measuring. I think your solution with the soft tube on one side is the only answer that will be viable.


Yeah you don’t want to have a QDC on hardline especially that tight of a space.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Lobstar said:


> Reading comprehension isn't a strong point with you is it? He addressed that when describing the accuracy of his sensors. You are just cherry picking your data points to save face in your losing 'battle'. Why are you fighting this so hard? Are the lives of your children at stake?


Obvious troll is obvious. Welcome to the block list for failing to contribute any useful information and just slinging insults.


----------



## Lobstar

HyperMatrix said:


> Obvious troll is obvious. Welcome to the block list for failing to contribute any useful information and just slinging insults.


Later nerd. I've never seen someone so mad about someone agreeing with them.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> Later nerd. I've never seen someone so mad about someone agreeing with them.


Optimus just needs to come out with its kingpin block to shut them all up. Also do an active block to shut up the ekwb active ppl. If Optimus released more products, some of us would love to give them more business.


----------



## Lobstar

Section31 said:


> Optimus just needs to come out with its kingpin block to shut them all up. Also do an active block to shut up the ekwb active ppl. If Optimus released more products, some of us would love to give them more business.


I hear that. I just would never expect a boutique waterblock manufacturer to cater to a niche video card with limited production when it can hit other markets and maximize it's profitability vs R&D costs. It's a testament to their following and effective design.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Optimus just needs to come out with its kingpin block to shut them all up. Also do an active block to shut up the ekwb active ppl. If Optimus released more products, some of us would love to give them more business.


Problem is they need to figure out the business end. They are failing to deliver which leaves people with no other alternative. Last I heard the Strix was up next and by the time thats sorted and out the door (If it ever makes it) any further 30XX will be a pointless venture as 40XX will be on the market. Its a shame as what I do have is decent stuff. They have the capability but Im doubting the means. I think everything is being run on one older CNC. Used to set6 up early 90s CNC machines for product change outs. All the tools were in the machine magazine. Just a matter of dumping the program and someone to load raw material and take out the finished and thats if you are doing it old school which most still do. If you want to spend the capital robotics can be deployed. If I was anywhere near them Id drop in and give them some advice on machine set up. Used to do exclusively industrial automation and robotics.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> I hear that. I just would never expect a boutique waterblock manufacturer to cater to a niche video card with limited production when it can hit other markets and maximize it's profitability vs R&D costs. It's a testament to their following and effective design.


In regards to my loop, thanks for confirmation i saw someone on heatkiller thread do soft tube/hardtube connection and was curious to try it. I am covered though on all ends with all these fittings (some of them are in the system already)


















I am probably one of optimus biggest clients i suspect either through bought by me/friends and word of mouth.


----------



## acoustic

Jesus Christ that's a lot of fittings LOL


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Problem is they need to figure out the business end. They are failing to deliver which leaves people with no other alternative. Last I heard the Strix was up next and by the time thats sorted and out the door (If it ever makes it) any further 30XX will be a pointless venture as 40XX will be on the market. Its a shame as what I do have is decent stuff. They have the capability but Im doubting the means. I think everything is being run on one older CNC. Used to set6 up early 90s CNC machines for product change outs. All the tools were in the machine magazine. Just a matter of dumping the program and someone to load raw material and take out the finished and thats if you are doing it old school which most still do. If you want to spend the capital robotics can be deployed. If I was anywhere near them Id drop in and give them some advice on machine set up. Used to do exclusively industrial automation and robotics.


Great Point. We all need to invest into them and make them bigger lol. Start making everything too.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Great Point. We all need to invest into them and make them bigger lol. Start making everything too.


I’ll gladly invest a nice sum…. Once my GME & AMC reach the moon. Should be soon…


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I’ll gladly invest a nice sum…. Once my GME & AMC reach the moon. Should be soon…


That and i think next year we should do optimus groupbuy together if they come out with new products. Our area/network is large enough its an option. That and for aquacomputer stuff too, we always seem to need stuff from them on yearly basis.


----------



## Hale59

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1393232131849998337


----------



## Shawnb99

3-4 weeks for the KPE


__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1393238321367683073


----------



## Section31

Hale59 said:


> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1393232131849998337


Great way to buy backup stuff. I bought an copper one as maybe best way to get stuff like the fujipoly for the backplate.


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> 3-4 weeks for the KPE
> 
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1393238321367683073


Thanks for that 

So prototypes maybe in 3-4 weeks. Then production, then getting added to any queue that's generated for them.

Are we looking at the end of the Summer, or maybe even later? I'm guessing my guess is as good as anybody else's.


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> Thanks for that
> 
> So prototypes maybe in 3-4 weeks. Then production, then getting adding to any queue that's generated for them.
> 
> Are we looking at the end of the Summer, or maybe even later? I'm guessing my guess is as good as anybody else's.


I would take it as so. I hope they made there block visually better though. Doesn't need to be aluminum even tinted acrylic would improve its look. Maybe they improved there backplate design even better too (some kind of active backplate)


----------



## Section31

I just did some more cleaning and i suspect bp brass may be also be an culprit for the stuff in the system. The fittings where there are brass tubing onwards to where the hwl rads had that stuff around its its linings. The stuff coming out from the mo-ra3 side relatively clean

Good thing i have excess fittings (bought more optimus blemish fittings)


----------



## Darb

Section31 said:


> In regards to my loop, thanks for confirmation i saw someone on heatkiller thread do soft tube/hardtube connection and was curious to try it. I am covered though on all ends with all these fittings (some of them are in the system already)
> 
> View attachment 2490418
> 
> View attachment 2490419
> 
> 
> I am probably one of optimus biggest clients i suspect either through bought by me/friends and word of mouth.


Nice. I have been waiting a very long time for them to produce 16mm hard line fittings. I guess they had a problem with the 16mm gaskets so never released any.


----------



## acoustic

I'm tired of this crappy 28mm thick AIO rad and I don't want to drop $150 on the only 38mm Arctic 360 AIO. Looks like I'm going to build a loop for the CPU and probably add the GPU later when the 4000 series come out; seems too late in the 3000 series life now to bother, and the hybrid works fine.

I'm looking to go 50-60mm 360 rad up top or at the bottom in an 011D XL. What would you guys recommend for rad? I know of the Alphacool UT60, but figured I'd consult the big boys. I only plan on ever going up to two rads, so the higher thickness is going to help me overcome not squishing 3 rads into the case. I'd like to keep the side as a fresh intake so that I'm not just pushing warm radiator air into the case.


----------



## Section31

Delete


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I'm tired of this crappy 28mm thick AIO rad and I don't want to drop $150 on the only 38mm Arctic 360 AIO. Looks like I'm going to build a loop for the CPU and probably add the GPU later when the 4000 series come out; seems too late in the 3000 series life now to bother, and the hybrid works fine.
> 
> I'm looking to go 50-60mm 360 rad up top or at the bottom in an 011D XL. What would you guys recommend for rad? I know of the Alphacool UT60, but figured I'd consult the big boys. I only plan on ever going up to two rads, so the higher thickness is going to help me overcome not squishing 3 rads into the case. I'd like to keep the side as a fresh intake so that I'm not just pushing warm radiator air into the case.


HWL GTX or wait for heatkiller new internal rads. I am even going to run giveaway for one 30mm when i get it.


----------



## Section31

I do hope with optimus they do one thing stand the test of time. I realize after this round of upgrade the oldest pc components left will be the caselabs cases. Best value item i have bought that continues to be used. Even my friends have no interest in getting rid of there s5 with base and bullet bh8


----------



## Section31

Is this corrosion. Used brass vs brand new brass
Whole pipe is nearly full of the same gunk that was in my loop.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Is this corrosion. Used brass vs brand new brass
> Whole pipe is nearly full of the same gunk that was in my loop.
> 
> View attachment 2490555


Just out of curiosity what liquid do you use? Distilled water, additives, coolants, etc.?


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Just out of curiosity what liquid do you use? Distilled water, additives, coolants, etc.?


Distilled with Mayhem X1 or biocide addictive. Just finished cleaning all the fittings and took all the waterparts apart for cleaning. Some of the fittings also heavily stained.

I got enough extra tubing so can make new cuts. Just fittings i have to cleanup and reuse. I probably didn’t do an through cleaning in the first time.


----------



## Section31

one new versus one in the loop. Permanent stain


----------



## acoustic

That has to be corrosion. I don't see how that could be considered OK especially if it's the same gunk you've found throughout your loop.

Also, what sites are good for ordering water-cooling gear in the states? I looked at FrozenCPU and PCPS, and Aquacooling US, and none have the Nemesis 360GTX in stock. Crazy!


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> That has to be corrosion. I don't see how that could be considered OK especially if it's the same gunk you've found throughout your loop.
> 
> Also, what sites are good for ordering water-cooling gear in the states? I looked at FrozenCPU and PCPS, and Aquacooling US, and none have the Nemesis 360GTX in stock. Crazy!


Corrosion from the hwl gtr rads i suspect. I order from ppcs/titanrigs/modmymods. Only PPCS carry hwl rads. Otherwise it’s bitspower/corsair oen hwl rads. See your pm


----------



## Section31

Delete


----------



## Shawnb99

acoustic said:


> seems too late in the 3000 series life now to bother


By the time all the good blocks and gear comes out it'll seem too late in the 4000 series life as well. Not to mention limited stock means you have to grab whatever is first since waiting means missing out now.


----------



## acoustic

Shawnb99 said:


> By the time all the good blocks and gear comes out it'll seem too late in the 4000 series life as well. Not to mention limited stock means you have to grab whatever is first since waiting means missing out now.


Fair! I just know I'm going to be grabbing the next GPU on release so I'm iffy about putting the card under water, especially since it doesn't gain much. I think I'd have been much more open to putting my 2080TI under water; I had a great chip that was begging for lower temps.


----------



## D-EJ915

Shawnb99 said:


> By the time all the good blocks and gear comes out it'll seem too late in the 4000 series life as well. Not to mention limited stock means you have to grab whatever is first since waiting means missing out now.


I hope next time it works out better for us that watercool our GPUs for sure.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> By the time all the good blocks and gear comes out it'll seem too late in the 4000 series life as well. Not to mention limited stock means you have to grab whatever is first since waiting means missing out now.


The other issue is i really wonder why optimus stuff seems to pickup stuff within the loop too. This issue is really bugging me as i want to find the source of it. Cleaning excessively with toothpaste is not something i want to do so often.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

or you can use a gpu that doesnt use that much tdp problem solved


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> The other issue is i really wonder why optimus stuff seems to pickup stuff within the loop too. This issue is really bugging me as i want to find the source of it. Cleaning excessively with toothpaste is not something i want to do so often.


I hate cleaning my loop. Thats partially why Ive never reused radiators which is dumb but Ive been lazy.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Shawnb99 said:


> By the time all the good blocks and gear comes out it'll seem too late in the 4000 series life as well. Not to mention limited stock means you have to grab whatever is first since waiting means missing out now.


That seems to be Optimus's problem. They really need to scale up their ability to develop and produce multiple blocks, otherwise many of them might just be vaporware like the 2080 Ti block.


----------



## Shawnb99

Officially 3 weeks since I reported flaking of my block and I still don’t have a replacement. So frustrated with this BS. 
Another day without the tracking updated ☹

At this rate my custom cables will be hand made and delivered before I get my replacement


----------



## Section31

Good time about rig downtime is through cleaning lol. Just cleaned the white gasket of the copper oxidation etc (gross) off the gasket ring. Though i ended up using my one of nice eraser (kokuyo)


----------



## acoustic

Shawnb99 said:


> Officially 3 weeks since I reported flaking of my block and I still don’t have a replacement. So frustrated with this BS.
> Another day without the tracking updated ☹
> 
> At this rate my custom cables will be hand made and delivered before I get my replacement


Sounds like the package may have been lost.. that's really unfortunate. Optimus hasn't replied to any emails regarding the lack of update on the shipment? While you really can't blame Optimus for issues with the delivery, and I hate to beat this dead horse that has brought up every single page .. their lack of communication seems to be the forefront of all these issues.


----------



## Shawnb99

acoustic said:


> Sounds like the package may have been lost.. that's really unfortunate. Optimus hasn't replied to any emails regarding the lack of update on the shipment? While you really can't blame Optimus for issues with the delivery, and I hate to beat this dead horse that has brought up every single page .. their lack of communication seems to be the forefront of all these issues.


Oh no Optimus has been great with the communication and keeping me updated, replacement should get here today.
Just frustrated with the situation. Only angry with Optimus as it should be sent express the first time.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Shawnb99 said:


> Oh no Optimus has been great with the communication and keeping me updated, replacement should get here today.
> Just frustrated with the situation. Only angry with Optimus as it should be sent express the first time.


Yeah depending on the customer, might not have a spare block to pop in while waiting, and not easy to transition CPU to maybe be temporarily air cooled until replacement cold plate arrives depending on your setup. Could be down for days/weeks. Weird they wouldn't send it rush or express or whatever.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Oh no Optimus has been great with the communication and keeping me updated, replacement should get here today.
> Just frustrated with the situation. Only angry with Optimus as it should be sent express the first time.


With you there. Shipping is complete mess. I got small items that are stuck somewhere in USPS system.


----------



## Section31

My question is now why does Optimus seem to catch all the particles in the system onto the blocks/fitting when other brands remained uneffected. Mind you i think its an good thing since it lead me to both sources - brass tubing and dirty rad. I figured why the Optimus hardtube fittings were largely uneffected, its because it's stainless steel outside of the lid that nickel. I'm pretty sure the same particles were in the loop in my prior build i never noticed it.


----------



## Section31

I do have better pictures of what caused my loop to get dirty. 

The radiator was probably not super dirty when bought but long term usage in the previous setup (011xl) probably resulted in brass tubing corrosion/oxidation and the material gathered up in the radiators. Hence why changing to xr7 rad reduced the amount of foreign elements in the system.

The ultimate culprit is the brass tubing. Good thing Optimus products caught it.


----------



## Section31

Other good news for canadians is that an competitor to dazmode going to be opened. Spoke to an watercooling individual on reddit and this competitor will hope to carry optimus stuff.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Other good news for canadians is that an competitor to dazmode going to be opened. Spoke to an watercooling individual on reddit and this competitor will hope to carry optimus stuff.


Close to us?


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Close to us?


Winnipeg last checked


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Close to us?











Canada Watercool


The best retailer of custom watercooling gear in Canada. canada watercool watercooling ekwb




canada-watercool.ca


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> Other good news for canadians is that an competitor to dazmode going to be opened. Spoke to an watercooling individual on reddit and this competitor will hope to carry optimus stuff.


You say that like they will even be able to get stock.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2511362
> 
> 
> Good time about rig downtime is through cleaning lol. Just cleaned the white gasket of the copper oxidation etc (gross) off the gasket ring. Though i ended up using my one of nice eraser (kokuyo)


What did you use to get it off the gasket? I have the same problem but didn't have the time nor the desire to clean it a couple weeks ago.


----------



## Section31

Edge0fsanity said:


> What did you use to get it off the gasket? I have the same problem but didn't have the time nor the desire to clean it a couple weeks ago.


Eraser. It didn't get it all off but lot of it. I used one of my better one, that kokuyo (another great japanese brand of stationary at affordable prices) but i imagine any white eraser could work. In my case, it just means i got to buy more when I go stopover in Japan on my way back to Hong Kong.


----------



## Section31

Edge0fsanity said:


> What did you use to get it off the gasket? I have the same problem but didn't have the time nor the desire to clean it a couple weeks ago.


What was your source of oxidiation if you don't me asking.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Section31 said:


> What was your source of oxidiation if you don't me asking.


I suspect it's one of my hwl rads. One of them has always puked up little bits of copper and my fluid eventually gets a slight brownish color. This brown junk gets into the gasket staining it. I think I posted pics of it in here. I can't imagine I have any corrosion going on since it's all optimus parts, hwl rads, mayhems x1 and acrylic tube. 

I cleaned that rad again when I added a mora a couple weeks ago, we'll see if that helped, doubt it. Nothing but little copper bits came out.


----------



## Section31

Edge0fsanity said:


> I suspect it's one of my hwl rads. One of them has always puked up little bits of copper and my fluid eventually gets a slight brownish color. This brown junk gets into the gasket staining it. I think I posted pics of it in here. I can't imagine I have any corrosion going on since it's all optimus parts, hwl rads, mayhems x1 and acrylic tube.
> 
> I cleaned that rad again when I added a mora a couple weeks ago, we'll see if that helped, doubt it. Nothing but little copper bits came out.


From my testing the Mo-Ra3 is clean. In my case its combination of main source (brass tubing) and hwl rads also (got dirty in old build). I hope heatkiller new rads are cleaner. I just ran an test last night using Mo-Ra3 + GPU Block. No copper elements present


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Other good news for canadians is that an competitor to dazmode going to be opened. Spoke to an watercooling individual on reddit and this competitor will hope to carry optimus stuff.


Doesn't really mean much at this stage. Performance PCs here supposedly carries Optimus stock too...out of stock for months. 🤣


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Doesn't really mean much at this stage. Performance PCs here supposedly carries Optimus stock too...out of stock for months. 🤣


Better than having to deal with dazmode overall is the good news. It’s gotten to point its significantly cheaper and quicker to buy stuff from modmymods, titan rigs and ppcs and pay shipping to canada than buy from him.

One ultitube 200 d5 pro is 339cad before 20-30cad shipping plus 5% gst
In us ppcs, its 210usd and with 10% off coupon/etc you endup paying about 210ish usd after shipping. 12% taxes on top. So around 300cad max. Price difference of 50cad plus


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Better than having to deal with dazmode overall is the good news. It’s gotten to point its significantly cheaper and quicker to buy stuff from modmymods, titan rigs and ppcs and pay shipping to canada than buy from him.


Sure, I was just talking Optimus products. Just because they are going to say they have Optimus, doubt they will actually have any stock. Seems all Optimus stuff is just coming from their own store since they can't produce more.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Sure, I was just talking Optimus products. Just because they are going to say they have Optimus, doubt they will actually have any stock. Seems all Optimus stuff is just coming from their own store since they can't produce more.


Yeah, Optimus production needs to be improved for sure.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Yeah, Optimus production needs to be improved for sure.


All production needs to be improved. It's something that affecting everyone, plus add the fact it only leads to us hoarding makes it all even worse. Good luck finding HWL radiators in stock for months, Aquacomputer is even worse for restocking. Will be interesting how Heatkiller handles the restocking issues cause chances are they will be selling out of radiators sooner then later. Even hard to find the Bitspower fittings I want atm


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> All production needs to be improved. It's something that affecting everyone, plus add the fact it only leads to us hoarding makes it all even worse. Good luck finding HWL radiators in stock for months, Aquacomputer is even worse for restocking. Will be interesting how Heatkiller handles the restocking issues cause chances are they will be selling out of radiators sooner then later. Even hard to find the Bitspower fittings I want atm


Order from BP Taiwan. Its just slightly more than ppcs but they have huge selection. Fast shipping too, they use fedex.






Bitspower International On-Line Shop


Bitspower International On-Line Shop-Touchaqua On-Line Shop-Products - SPECIAL OFFER Brand Fitting Pump Radiator Tube Water Blocks Cable Case MOD Water Tank Custom PC Kits Merchandise Overclocking PWM Kit Premium Watercooled PSU EOL ecommerce, open source, shop, online shopping




shop.bitspower.com


----------



## dwolvin

Oh- that's good to know, thank you!


----------



## acoustic

Spoke to Markus @ watercool and he said the new Heatkiller radiators will not be available at NA retailers for another few weeks. The new rads look fantastic.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Spoke to Markus @ watercool and he said the new Heatkiller radiators will not be available at NA retailers for another few weeks. The new rads look fantastic.


Did you order them through Heatkiller then. It feels to me that will sell out with everyone i am talking to, especially some of the optimus owners out there.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Did you order them through Heatkiller then. It feels to me that will sell out with everyone i am talking to, especially some of the optimus owners out there.


Yep, just placed my order. 2x 360-L (Stainless Steel), Heatkiller 150 Tube w/ D5 mount, D5 PWM pump, Heatkiller IV block (LGA1200), and a mounting kit for the Reservoir.

Came out to ~$580 American. I'm stoked! My ambient temps are below 10c (basement with the AC on and PC is next to the vent) so I'm looking forward to getting my 10900K stable at 5.3Ghz. I'm all set for AlderLake in November now, too. The EVGA 360 CLC did great but pumping 280w+ is just too much for it to cool, even with a direct-die setup. This will be my first custom loop.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Yep, just placed my order. 2x 360-L (Stainless Steel), Heatkiller 150 Tube w/ D5 mount, D5 PWM pump, Heatkiller IV block (LGA1200), and a mounting kit for the Reservoir.
> 
> Came out to ~$580 American. I'm stoked! My ambient temps are below 10c (basement with the AC on and PC is next to the vent) so I'm looking forward to getting my 10900K stable at 5.3Ghz. I'm all set for AlderLake in November now, too. The EVGA 360 CLC did great but pumping 280w+ is just too much for it to cool, even with a direct-die setup. This will be my first custom loop.


Alderlake is lga1700, you might want new block for it. However its going to take time to design it so good to have usable cpu block.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Alderlake is lga1700, you might want new block for it


Yeah, not worried about that though. If I have to buy a new block, I will. I'm also on the fence about skipping first gen AlderLake, but we'll see once we know more.

Thanks for your help as well!


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Yeah, not worried about that though. If I have to buy a new block, I will. I'm also on the fence about skipping first gen AlderLake, but we'll see once we know more.
> 
> Thanks for your help as well!


I would be too. I thought about alderlake too but with falling cpu prices i won’t break even to top end alderlake sku so going to let ddr5, etc mature out. I would wait to see how meteorlake/lunarlake develops. Lunarlake if on LGA1700 will make alderlake upgrade worth it. Otherwise hold out for meteorlake


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Yeah, not worried about that though. If I have to buy a new block, I will. I'm also on the fence about skipping first gen AlderLake, but we'll see once we know more.
> 
> Thanks for your help as well!


On the plus side you saved enough that you can an get optimus lga1700 cpu block


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> On the plus side you saved enough that you can an get optimus lga1700 cpu block


Yeah I've heard the Heatkiller IV block has somewhat fallen behind, right? I really threw it on there because it got me the free shipping and technically only "cost" me ~$60 since I was going to pay $40 in shipping anyway.


----------



## JustinThyme

acoustic said:


> Yeah I've heard the Heatkiller IV block has somewhat fallen behind, right? I really threw it on there because it got me the free shipping and technically only "cost" me ~$60 since I was going to pay $40 in shipping anyway.


Its not that far behind. The largest margin I could produce was 3C on a 10980XE. Average is more like 1-2C so its still a very good block. I'm finding its not so much about which of the top blocks you get as it is which will fit the curvature of your particular IHS the best. I ordered an EK magnitude flat cold plate for giggles and damned if it doesn't perform the best over any Optimus by like 1C so hardly worth changing out. The Sig V2 also works better with the o ring pulled on the inlet. Optimus posted some time ago about all the flat sig V2 top blems they had laying around for the asking and even called my name out in the post. I Asked in thread, though PM multiple times and email multiple times. That's been better than 4 months ago and everyone already knows how many replies I got........

Its a real shyte show when you try to push their brand but they just don't communicate or deliver anymore. When it was just the CPU blocks they were on the ball. I'm still sticking by my guess that they will have closed up shop before the year is out. Shame too as what I do have is decent blocks. Still running my 2080Tis and wouldnt pull the heatkiller blocks from those that maintain a 7-8C delta and cards never make 40C and the HK blocks look great too. For my tastes as far as aesthetics go I like the HK better and no arguing the performance when you load the crap out them and they never make 40C. My GPUs are great where they are with the only thing topping them being a pair of 3090s and Im not going there with this market. Only thing Im trying to pull a little more out of is my CPU. It will run to 5.1GHz but thats a bit on the toasty side. Id like to run 4.8-4.9 and stay under 80C max core which is where I am right now at 4.7GHz all cores. Im still sitting here with a MORA that I haven't put in the loop yet. Freaking work has been unreal. They cut us back to 32 hours max for a couple of months when COVID supposedly first hit the US April and May ( I had it in January as did my Daughter but that's impossible with it not being here....yeah right...tested positive for the antibodies). When they lifted that I haven't seen less than 60 hours since (averaging 75-80) . I went from sitting around doing nothing but testing water blocks with actual work hours being more like 10 hours (still getting paid the full 32) to busier than a one armed wall paper hanger. My machine sees maybe 30 minutes a day if that and sometimes goes a few days with no time when I come rolling in at 5AM after having left the previous morning at 5AM. And with all those hours do you know how many clients would take the same crap Optimus is dishing out? NONE! They dont want to hear anything about COVID other than you dont have it. Some require a brain swab before going to their site and more and more are demanding you being fully vaccinated (which I am even though I already had the antibodies) Financials and now pharmaceutical companies are being a real PITA. Bottom line, we dont deliver and they will find someone that will.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Its not that far behind. The largest margin I could produce was 3C on a 10980XE. Average is more like 1-2C so its still a very good block. I'm finding its not so much about which of the top blocks you get as it is which will fit the curvature of your particular IHS the best. I ordered an EK magnitude flat cold plate for giggles and damned if it doesn't perform the best over any Optimus by like 1C so hardly worth changing out. The Sig V2 also works better with the o ring pulled on the inlet. Optimus posted some time ago about all the flat sig V2 top blems they had laying around for the asking and even called my name out in the post. I Asked in thread, though PM multiple times and email multiple times. That's been better than 4 months ago and everyone already knows how many replies I got........
> 
> Its a real shyte show when you try to push their brand but they just don't communicate or deliver anymore. When it was just the CPU blocks they were on the ball. I'm still sticking by my guess that they will have closed up shop before the year is out. Shame too as what I do have is decent blocks. Still running my 2080Tis and wouldnt pull the heatkiller blocks from those that maintain a 7-8C delta and cards never make 40C and the HK blocks look great too. For my tastes as far as aesthetics go I like the HK better and no arguing the performance when you load the crap out them and they never make 40C. My GPUs are great where they are with the only thing topping them being a pair of 3090s and Im not going there with this market. Only thing Im trying to pull a little more out of is my CPU. It will run to 5.1GHz but thats a bit on the toasty side. Id like to run 4.8-4.9 and stay under 80C max core which is where I am right now at 4.7GHz all cores. Im still sitting here with a MORA that I haven't put in the loop yet. Freaking work has been unreal. They cut us back to 32 hours max for a couple of months when COVID supposedly first hit the US April and May ( I had it in January as did my Daughter but that's impossible with it not being here....yeah right...tested positive for the antibodies). When they lifted that I haven't seen less than 60 hours since (averaging 75-80) . I went from sitting around doing nothing but testing water blocks with actual work hours being more like 10 hours (still getting paid the full 32) to busier than a one armed wall paper hanger. My machine sees maybe 30 minutes a day if that and sometimes goes a few days with no time when I come rolling in at 5AM after having left the previous morning at 5AM. And with all those hours do you know how many clients would take the same crap Optimus is dishing out? NONE! They dont want to hear anything about COVID other than you dont have it. Some require a brain swab before going to their site and more and more are demanding you being fully vaccinated (which I am even though I already had the antibodies) Financials and now pharmaceutical companies are being a real PITA. Bottom line, we dont deliver and they will find someone that will.


Common case with work getting more. Same amount of work lot less staff on hand now. Hope for the best with optimus. Too much doom amd gloom isn’t good for anyone.


----------



## acoustic

Great to hear about the Heatkiller IV block. I like the style of it; went with the Copper+Nickel plate as I'll be going direct-die with some Coollabs liquid metal on my 10900K. I'd like to add that Markus @ Watercool has been super responsive and quick to answer all my emails/inquiries. It's definitely something that helps build trust with a company, to the point where I don't care much to pay 29,95 euro shipping fees to order direct from them. Hopefully, Optimus gets to that level where they have a dedicated sales/customer support team that is on top of this stuff.

I asked about the 3080 FTW3 block to see if I could get any info out of him, but he said no release date, and probably not very soon either. I wouldn't mind rocking a full Heatkiller setup 

I'm trying to figure out what else I'll need. I'm assuming everything will ship at once when the rads release on May27, so that gives me some time. I'll likely just run distilled water + Mayhem's biocide. Fittings I plan on doing a Microcenter run as they sell Bitspower stuff, and those are top notch from what I've read.

It's going to be super overkill to have 2 360 rads for just my CPU (for now), but at least it'll be easy to add the GPU in later on!


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Common case with work getting more. Same amount of work lot less staff on hand now. Hope for the best with optimus. Too much doom amd gloom isn’t good for anyone.


I’ve always wished them the best to have a top tier North American based company as it drives innovation by all but they are wielding their own shovels. Started like a bonfire but dwindling like a candle in wind and the wind is picking up.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Great to hear about the Heatkiller IV block. I like the style of it; went with the Copper+Nickel plate as I'll be going direct-die with some Coollabs liquid metal on my 10900K. I'd like to add that Markus @ Watercool has been super responsive and quick to answer all my emails/inquiries. It's definitely something that helps build trust with a company, to the point where I don't care much to pay 29,95 euro shipping fees to order direct from them. Hopefully, Optimus gets to that level where they have a dedicated sales/customer support team that is on top of this stuff.
> 
> I asked about the 3080 FTW3 block to see if I could get any info out of him, but he said no release date, and probably not very soon either. I wouldn't mind rocking a full Heatkiller setup
> 
> I'm trying to figure out what else I'll need. I'm assuming everything will ship at once when the rads release on May27, so that gives me some time. I'll likely just run distilled water + Mayhem's biocide. Fittings I plan on doing a Microcenter run as they sell Bitspower stuff, and those are top notch from what I've read.
> 
> It's going to be super overkill to have 2 360 rads for just my CPU (for now), but at least it'll be easy to add the GPU in later on!


Heatkiller rep always been good. Jakob was the best reps here.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I’ve always wished them the best to have a top tier North American based company as it drives innovation by all but they are wielding their own shovels. Started like a bonfire but dwindling like a candle in wind and the wind is picking up.


Meanwhile i just made something i am going to killed for on ocn. It’s only for science unlikely i use in reality for long time. Excessive RGB Mo-Ra3.


----------



## JustinThyme

acoustic said:


> Great to hear about the Heatkiller IV block. I like the style of it; went with the Copper+Nickel plate as I'll be going direct-die with some Coollabs liquid metal on my 10900K. I'd like to add that Markus @ Watercool has been super responsive and quick to answer all my emails/inquiries. It's definitely something that helps build trust with a company, to the point where I don't care much to pay 29,95 euro shipping fees to order direct from them. Hopefully, Optimus gets to that level where they have a dedicated sales/customer support team that is on top of this stuff.
> 
> I asked about the 3080 FTW3 block to see if I could get any info out of him, but he said no release date, and probably not very soon either. I wouldn't mind rocking a full Heatkiller setup
> 
> I'm trying to figure out what else I'll need. I'm assuming everything will ship at once when the rads release on May27, so that gives me some time. I'll likely just run distilled water + Mayhem's biocide. Fittings I plan on doing a Microcenter run as they sell Bitspower stuff, and those are top notch from what I've read.
> 
> It's going to be super overkill to have 2 360 rads for just my CPU (for now), but at least it'll be easy to add the GPU in later on!


You may rethink the twin 360s as overkill once you get a CPU and GPU in there. ATM with a MORA3 420 fully assembled but not having had time to incorporate it into my loop my overkill isnt all all that over kill with 2X360s a 420 and a 480. Its suffices but to keep the liquid temp down where I want it takes fans picking up speed and when Im loaded down on both the fans are cranking pretty good. Of course I can raise the fan curve but with that my water temp goes up as does the CPU and GPU temps. Cooling a 10980XE and a pair of 2080Tis which is where I will remain for the foreseeable future. Only thing that beats my pair of 280Tis would be a pair of 3090s at this point and at MSRP one 3090 is more than I paid for both 2080TIs. 3080s don't have the Nvlink capability so they wont top what I have......ever. Yes SLI is still alive and well and current frivers still support it although there are some titles that dont support in natively very few cant be forced with Nvidia inspector and a profile and often its as simple as using another profile (GTAV profile works on a lot of them) and simply tagging the unsupported titles EXE to that profile. Regardless of games I use the compute power for other things more than for gaming which Id say my total usage is 20% when I'm home with nothing else to do and completely bored out of my mind. Games took a back seat in my choices quite a long time ago. 

But yeah the HKIV sample I have is the full nickel version. I was running that before Optimus was born and EK hadn't launched the Magnitude. It was kicking the pants off of pretty much everything Id tried. Add to that they are still very readily available and more than enough capacity for a 10900K. If you are going direct die just be aware you will most likely have to lap the cold plate of the block to get it flat as with few exceptions they all are bowed to compensate for IHS bow. Strangely enough my best results without delidding or lapping anything has been the EK Magnitude with the optional flat cold plate on a 10980XE, they are a bit on the pricey side though. I was fortunate enough to be provided a random production sample to test so the block didnt cost me anything but I did have to buy the flat cold plate from PPCs for $40 Which isn't completely flat but close to it.

TechN is another new comer that I havent tested personally but have seen others results and they look pretty good. Most reviews out there are for AMD blocks but Ive seen a lot of happy intel customers posting on here too. Too many choices and not enough info LOL. Just another alternative to clog your brain but a HKIV will perform just fine, not far off from top dogs and a very simplistic look which is something Ive always liked about them. I run HKIV GPU blocks on my 2080Tis and they work very well, better than anything else on the market for my cards achieving an 8C delta which is repeatable acroos everything Ive thrown at them. Ive seen a few claims here on the Optimus FTW3 block getting 6C delta but no data to support the claims. They look nice, Ill give them that but many years before deliveries started to happen and still a might on the slow side. A lot of the other manufacturers are coming eventually and some are not bothering as there just arent any customer to sell to with no cards available unless you like paying scalpers pricing or pumping down caffeine and Taurine and staying up all hours trying to get one near MSRP on some place like NewEgg. Ive heard of a few people saying they got them at microcenter and that they weren't listing them online you just had to be at the store at the right time but Im a bit skeptical on those claims as I know a manager (personal friend) at one location who said if its not listed online they don't have them. They beat the bots simply because you have to show up to the store anyhow, they don't ship but you can order it and they pull it from the self and you just go pick it up. I asked some that claimed to get them at MSRP from microcenter to post the receipt with the date, amount and store listed and all I got was crickets. They did post pics of the card but that could have come from anywhere, including the one place you can find them easily, fleabay scalpers.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Meanwhile i just made something i am going to killed for on ocn. It’s only for science unlikely i use in reality for long time. Excessive RGB Mo-Ra3.
> 
> View attachment 2511780


Light it up!! Im using the 2000 rpm Noctua industrials but maybe Ill put some ot the halos on them!
RGB is a preference, some love it, some hate it and some got batsh!t crazy with it. I run a good bit but no crazy color effects. Mostly static colors and all Corsair Ique. Right now im mostly white except my ram running the "stack" profile and mm700 mousepad and K100 keyboard and with spiral rainbow and light towers facing backwards with a static blue just for desk lighting.


----------



## Henry Owens

I decided to go with the TechN am4 block due to how it directs the jetplate over the ryzen chiplets


----------



## iamjanco

Does Watercool Jakob still hang out here in the forums?

As for the Heatkiller stuff, I'm still a big fan of the cluttered, industrial look; and the closest I come to RGB are colored incandescents. 

Anyway, I was actually hoping there'd be more movement by Optimus on a KPE 3090 block by now, but I see they're still iffy as far as delivering promises goes.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

To answer a few questions because it seems like there is a lot of misinformation floating around 


We now have 3 people who handle customer service emails. Emails about changing orders etc get answered faster than esoteric questions, but almost everything gets an answer now in a few days. If it gets missed, send us a follow-up to make sure it gets our attention 
Our production is way up, some blocks are shipping faster than others but overall we've increased production to meet demand.
Our factory is getting a major size increase later this year
We have added more machines, adding even more later this year
The demand for FTW3 blocks has been higher than we imagined (and for evga and nvidia as well!), so we need more machines to make more blocks
We're nearly done with the Strix, and then it's onto the KPE
We have a new process for internal prototyping so it won't take production time away from cranking out regular blocks

KINGPIN:

It will have an ACTIVE BACKPLATE (wooo)
It will aesthetically have a new look that we've been working on, it'll be cool and super unique. And, of course, even higher quality
We will have support for the NVLink fingers
It will accommodate the back oled
Price will be for main block and backplate together, it's one fancy system, can't be ordered separately.
Naturally, this is going to be a pricey block. But based on customer feedback, people want the best (after all, the KP is no budget card)


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> KINGPIN:
> 
> It will have an ACTIVE BACKPLATE (wooo)
> It will aesthetically have a new look that we've been working on, it'll be cool and super unique. And, of course, even higher quality
> We will have support for the NVLink fingers
> It will accommodate the back oled
> Price will be for main block and backplate together, it's one fancy system, can't be ordered separately.
> Naturally, this is going to be a pricey block. But based on customer feedback, people want the best (after all, the KP is no budget card)



So looking forward to this

Pricey block when the FTW is $375 makes me think this with easily be $500 if not $600+


----------



## acoustic

Awesome guys! Great work. Keep pumping out the blocks and expanding!


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> To answer a few questions because it seems like there is a lot of misinformation floating around
> 
> 
> We now have 3 people who handle customer service emails. Emails about changing orders etc get answered faster than esoteric questions, but almost everything gets an answer now in a few days. If it gets missed, send us a follow-up to make sure it gets our attention
> Our production is way up, some blocks are shipping faster than others but overall we've increased production to meet demand.
> Our factory is getting a major size increase later this year
> We have added more machines, adding even more later this year
> The demand for FTW3 blocks has been higher than we imagined (and for evga and nvidia as well!), so we need more machines to make more blocks
> We're nearly done with the Strix, and then it's onto the KPE
> We have a new process for internal prototyping so it won't take production time away from cranking out regular blocks
> 
> KINGPIN:
> 
> It will have an ACTIVE BACKPLATE (wooo)
> It will aesthetically have a new look that we've been working on, it'll be cool and super unique. And, of course, even higher quality
> We will have support for the NVLink fingers
> It will accommodate the back oled
> Price will be for main block and backplate together, it's one fancy system, can't be ordered separately.
> Naturally, this is going to be a pricey block. But based on customer feedback, people want the best (after all, the KP is no budget card)


Bring an active backplate idea to the other cards too. We would love it. All Metal Block maybe?

Any R&D update on alternative mounting reservoir?


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> So looking forward to this
> 
> Pricey block when the FTW is $375 makes me think this with easily be $500 if not $600+


That's the price range we're looking at. After all, the backplate will basically be a full-coverage waterblock on its own. It'll be less material and less difficult to make, so less expensive. But we want to do it with max performance in mind, which means a bucket of copper 



Section31 said:


> Bring an active backplate idea to the other cards too. We would love it. All Metal Block maybe?
> 
> Any R&D update on alternative mounting reservoir?


We looked at doing all metal for this gen of GPUs, it came out to something like 15lbs  Plastics is the only way to keep the weight low enough to keep your PC from breaking your desk. 

Are you interested in all-metal because of the look? Or reliability? 

As for other liquid backplates, it's possible, though always comes down to time. 

As for the res mount, yes, it's all designed and we have the material for it. And we'll be running off first samples soon now that we are better suited to doing prototyping that doesn't take production away from cranking out blocks.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> That's the price range we're looking at. After all, the backplate will basically be a full-coverage waterblock on its own. It'll be less material and less difficult to make, so less expensive. But we want to do it with max performance in mind, which means a bucket of copper
> 
> 
> 
> We looked at doing all metal for this gen of GPUs, it came out to something like 15lbs  Plastics is the only way to keep the weight low enough to keep your PC from breaking your desk.
> 
> Are you interested in all-metal because of the look? Or reliability?
> 
> As for other liquid backplates, it's possible, though always comes down to time.
> 
> As for the res mount, yes, it's all designed and we have the material for it. And we'll be running off first samples soon now that we are better suited to doing prototyping that doesn't take production away from cranking out blocks.


Thats great news. You guys been quiet on that alternative reservoir (glass) that we can mount d5 next on it. All metal gpu blocks for the look but your current blocks are nice too. Hope you do come out with active backplate for the other cards.


----------



## iamjanco

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> To answer a few questions because it seems like there is a lot of misinformation floating around
> 
> We're nearly done with the Strix, and then it's onto the KPE
> KINGPIN:
> 
> It will have an ACTIVE BACKPLATE (wooo)
> It will aesthetically have a new look that we've been working on, it'll be cool and super unique. And, of course, even higher quality
> We will have support for the NVLink fingers
> It will accommodate the back oled
> Price will be for main block and backplate together, it's one fancy system, can't be ordered separately.
> Naturally, this is going to be a pricey block. But based on customer feedback, people want the best (after all, the KP is no budget card)


Thanks, that's the sort of info potential customers like me appreciate learning and appreciate even more upon product delivery. As for price, as you suggested, it's a matter of relevance.

Deliver a great product, and I'll buy it as long as it's not being sold by a gouger:










Heck, deliver a great product, and I'll shoot and process some pro-level images and even let you use them and my test results for marketing purposes.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I've tried that pitch ^


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> View attachment 2511843



Now that's getting a bit excessive.


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> Now that's getting a bit excessive.


Why thank-you 🤪

Added edit: oops, thought you were talking about me (took a look at what you attached).


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> I've tried that pitch ^


yeah, but you're not a space ghost @The Pook


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> I've tried that pitch ^


I suspect some of optimus biggest spenders are here. I don’t dare look at how much me and my friends have spent on Optimus products.

We really did wonders for them through word of mouth. Tell you the popularity of word of mouth and mixed promotion (user and reviews) over youtube ppl.


----------



## iamjanco

^I know I'd pay a premium for a good water block for the KPE 3090, let alone a great waterblock.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I would as well. I'll sell the HC block to help pay for it. But to use it in the mean time or not is the real question...


----------



## Shawnb99

LiquidHaus said:


> I would as well. I'll sell the HC block to help pay for it. But to use it in the mean time or not is the real question...


I've having the same debate. I'm leaning towards not using it. Would be easier to sell and still might see if I can snag a hydro model as well before Optimus comes out with their block


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I've having the same debate. I'm leaning towards not using it. Would be easier to sell and still might see if I can snag a hydro model as well before Optimus comes out with their block


I think its time to sell before the inevitable collapse on GPU demand comes. Buying Optimus isn't cheap and recouping costs for them is never bad thing. The target audience is here, EVGA Kingpin forum and local online classified. Avoid the big online classified as I feel the audience there who would buy waterblocks are Barrows/EKWB group largely.


----------



## Optimus WC

Yeah, there is a big range of potential products for these blocks, like doing a true extreme liquid backplate vs a heatpipe "liquid" backplate. Already our XL heatsink backplate is a big step up from what a backplate has been, esp since we cool absolutely everything on that pcb 

Typically, we ask ourselves "What would we want?" And end up saying, yeah, we'd want the absolute best performance without going insane on prices. No gold plated, but if there is obvious performance to be gained, we'll do it. 

That said, it'd be interesting to know what people want for a liquid backplate for other blocks. The options range from extreme full copper with fins, to a hybrid copper in the center with aluminum elsewhere. To just all aluminum with a stick-on block solution.


----------



## le-coq

Thanks Optimus for the updates. You've answered a lot of questions that were in my head for several months so the updates are much appreciated. 

FYI to readers, I'm using one of their CPU blocks, reservoir, and all of my fittings are Optimus (except one "T" and the drain valve). The installation has been running for ten months (and maybe five of those months 24/7 but no load). Optimus was able to provide instrumental advice, and the setup has been running exactly as designed with complete reliability up to this point.

I had to wait six to eight weeks (I think everything showed up last August) but the wait for me was fine. It reminded me of my childhood when many things ordered took this long so I guess for me it was reminiscent 😂 😂. The wait made it like Christmas by the time everything arrived.

Will be looking for updates to your products (GPU blocks, fittings, bracket maybe, etc.) and I'll gladly build another computer decked out with your parts. Now off to work to make some Bennies so I can cover this.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Yeah, there is a big range of potential products for these blocks, like doing a true extreme liquid backplate vs a heatpipe "liquid" backplate. Already our XL heatsink backplate is a big step up from what a backplate has been, esp since we cool absolutely everything on that pcb
> 
> Typically, we ask ourselves "What would we want?" And end up saying, yeah, we'd want the absolute best performance without going insane on prices. No gold plated, but if there is obvious performance to be gained, we'll do it.
> 
> That said, it'd be interesting to know what people want for a liquid backplate for other blocks. The options range from extreme full copper with fins, to a hybrid copper in the center with aluminum elsewhere. To just all aluminum with a stick-on block solution.


Curious what your testing results are with that. The only consideration being that the backplate block can't be ultra thick for AMD boards. The results from EKWB/MP5works active backplate are good but not drastic gains. For us existing ftw3 amd owners, i would say hybrid copper with alumium makes most sense. The backside memory need the copper really, rest thick aluminum is enough


----------



## le-coq

I'd say for a liquid backplate it depends on the performance gain - if it's monumental for someone running high loads, then they would probably consider. For someone like me, the gain may not be big enough to add more complexity to a system.


----------



## Section31

le-coq said:


> Thanks Optimus for the updates. You've answered a lot of questions that were in my head for several months so the updates are much appreciated.
> 
> FYI to readers, I'm using one of their CPU blocks, reservoir, and all of my fittings are Optimus (except one "T" and the drain valve). The installation has been running for ten months (and maybe five of those months 24/7 but no load). Optimus was able to provide instrumental advice, and the setup has been running exactly as designed with complete reliability up to this point.
> 
> I had to wait six to eight weeks (I think everything showed up last August) but the wait for me was fine. It reminded me of my childhood when many things ordered took this long so I guess for me it was reminiscent 😂 😂. The wait made it like Christmas by the time everything arrived.
> 
> Will be looking for updates to your products (GPU blocks, fittings, bracket maybe, etc.) and I'll gladly build another computer decked out with your parts. Now off to work to make some Bennies so I can cover this.


Good to hear. Couple of us just have unexpected incompatibility issues (normal for watercooling) but it's part of watercooling and we will get it resolved. Many of us here looking to go all Optimus at some point.


----------



## le-coq

I'll add that as reliability and maintenance were my concerns, I was advised to use distilled water and the water today is still crystal clear. The water level has dipped a few millimeters in my reservoir, but with no leaks found maybe that's from air bubbles coming out. 

Agree with you with the people here, they want to go Optimus anyways.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> No gold plated, but if there is obvious performance to be gained, we'll do it.


So solid silver blocks confirmed?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Ya'll should post a render of the KPE block. Literally no one else is making one anyway. Might as well get people hyped even more.


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> Ya'll should post a render of the KPE block. Literally no one else is making one anyway. Might as well get people hyped even more.


If I had one, I would, as well as dims spec'd using Mitutoyo. I'd also spec clearances between the block and its pad/paste mating surfaces. I don't think anyone has done that to date. At least not that I'm aware of.

For the sake of clarification, I'm talking about EVGA's HC block, not the one Optimus is working on.


----------



## iamjanco

@LiquidHaus Per chance, did you gin up any additional drawings, hardware list(s), dims and/or other specs, and any other thoughtful advice you'd be willing to share for *what you shared over on EVGA's forum*? Given what we know/suspect about how long it could be before getting our hands on an alternative block for the KPE, I'd like to add your Koolance setup (or a modified version of it) to my copy of the card, sans stealth measures.

I'd clean all that up and share something with my cnc/waterjet cutting guy that he could use to make custom plates for both the front and back covers.

Also, anything dims wise for the oem backplate would be useful as well.


----------



## LiquidHaus

iamjanco said:


> @LiquidHaus Per chance, did you gin up any additional drawings, hardware list(s), dims and/or other specs, and any other thoughtful advice you'd be willing to share for *what you shared over on EVGA's forum*? Given what we know/suspect about how long it could be before getting our hands on an alternative block for the KPE, I'd like to add your Koolance setup (or a modified version of it) to my copy of the card, sans stealth measures.
> 
> I'd clean all that up and share something with my cnc/waterjet cutting guy that he could use to make custom plates for both the front and back covers.
> 
> Also, anything dims wise for the oem backplate would be useful as well.



Well, I used a 2mmx100mmx100mm sheet of copper, and traced out the design of the stock EVGA AIO pump copper plate. Then cut out the design, but also cut out the center of the plate for the die, as the new 2mm pads will provide about 0.5-1mm of increased height difference between the two cut outs. After applying thermal paste, it was a simple manner of tightening the block to the card so that it compressed the pads properly and made contact with the die & die cutout.

I took dimensions from asking Clovis from the EVGA forum about them, as at the the time I didn't plan to take apart my card just for R&D purposes. I'd have to look back at his original thread. I can also take measurements of the original AIO cooler plate as it's just sitting in my closet now collecting dust. Still need it for RMA purposes though, just in case. It's honestly a pretty simple idea though since the trick is to get the mounting surface even all around for whichever block you choose. If I had to do it over, I'd cut the die portion of the plate smaller, so that slightly more contact is being made with the memory portion of the plate.

I do need to take measurements of the backplate, as I need to figure out a way to mount an mp5works bpc onto it.

Honestly the cut out being done properly on a waterjet would be super nice. I'd take one as well!


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> Well, I used a 2mmx100mmx100mm sheet of copper, and traced out the design of the stock EVGA AIO pump copper plate. Then cut out the design, but also cut out the center of the plate for the die, as the new 2mm pads will provide about 0.5-1mm of increased height difference between the two cut outs. After applying thermal paste, it was a simple manner of tightening the block to the card so that it compressed the pads properly and made contact with the die & die cutout.
> 
> I took dimensions from asking Clovis from the EVGA forum about them, as at the the time I didn't plan to take apart my card just for R&D purposes. I'd have to look back at his original thread. I can also take measurements of the original AIO cooler plate as it's just sitting in my closet now collecting dust. Still need it for RMA purposes though, just in case. It's honestly a pretty simple idea though since the trick is to get the mounting surface even all around for whichever block you choose. If I had to do it over, I'd cut the die portion of the plate smaller, so that slightly more contact is being made with the memory portion of the plate.
> 
> I do need to take measurements of the backplate, as I need to figure out a way to mount an mp5works bpc onto it.
> 
> Honestly the cut out being done properly on a waterjet would be super nice. I'd take one as well!


Thanks for getting back to me with a little more clarification . No need to fish it out of the closet, and it's just as easy for me to review what Clovis mentioned.

It'll be a few days, but I'll get the SR-3 powered up and test the gpu using it just to make sure there's nothing wrong with card; as well as get a few baselone specs for the copy I've got. Once I do that I'll disassemble it, spec the front plate keeping what you said about the memory coverage in mind; amd spec the backplate as well.

For the backplate: I already know I need multiple pieces: a full flat plate with spec'd holes where I need them, and either a separate, full-edge-coverage "shim" plate with holes or a collection of smaller shims, either of which I'll use to manage the depth normally provided by the edges of the oem backplate. I've got a set of plastic feeler gauges I can use for that purpose, up to 3mm thick. Who knows, I might be able to get the inside of the backplate closer to the hot stuff.

I'll also order some of that thermal putty from Digikey as well, and a larger collection of copper shim stock, just in case I decide to go the _memory > TGK tim > copper shim > thermal putty_ route on the back side. I'm also thinking about adding a water cooling solution to the backplate as well (e.g., mp5works), one that I can attach to it using screws that are inserted through chamfered holes on the inside of that plate.

Got plenty of everything else on hand (including 1.0 and 1.5mm Fujipoly 17.0 W/mK pads just in case I decide to mix things up--the trimmed copper shims on the ram might just help with that).

As for the parts I'd have made, they'd be cut from 110A copper and 6061 T6 aluminum. The copper would only be used over the hot areas, and I've been thinking about fitting in room for an mp5works block myself, as I hinted above.

Lastly, as far as the waterjet cut parts go, if everything goes well, I'll likely order five sets of everything I order. My guy prefers bulk orders and gives a pretty hefty discount for them over one-off orders. I imagine what I don't need (3 sets) will be relatively easy to move once I prove the proof is in the pudding. I'll keep a second set myself just in case.

Anyway, I'm hoping to be far enough along with everything I mentioned such that I can make an informed decision about canceling my notify for the Hydro Copper block.

*Additional info:*

See the *~30c improvement in 3080 memory temp using shims video* T.Sharp shared in a post in the _Guide on improving gddr6\gddr6x vram thermals with copper shims_ thread. It's in Russian, but has closed captions in English (turn on CC);
Link to *50gm container of TG-PP10-50 thermal putty* on Digi-Key;
Link to *MP5WORKS water block* for GPU backplate;
Copper shims, supply of 0.6mm and 0.8mm (need to research);
Ask over on EVGA forum if their surface mount processes involve *underfilling* the gpu chip (that should thoroughly confuse most);
More to come.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I'll loop the content Clovis made in his thread that I used for reference, and put it here:


























Also for this one, we should talk to Clovis about what it took for him to get this back plate up and running fully..


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> I'll loop the content Clovis made in his thread that I used for reference, and put it here:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also for this one, we should talk to Clovis about what it took for him to get this back plate up and running fully..
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Thanks for those. Was just trying to find them over on EVGA site, but their forum tools leave a lot to be desired.

*Edit:* *found the thread*.

As for mounting the MP5 block, I'll use the slots in its backplate to set up for screw mounting in the KPE backplate replacement I'm working on. I'll need to get my hands on at least one of those MP5 blocks of course, or a very good photo of its backside against a white background, accompanied by accurate dims.

Again, out of the box, the only real drawbacks I see to using the MP5 block are the differences between the fitting connections on the parallel and series versions; which could add limitations to which slots you can use on various motherboards depending on how you want to hook your cooling lines up. That won't be a problem for me on the SR-3 Dark on the bench, but if I decide I want to move the card to another setup it could be.

*Added:* this also looks interesting (for the backplate):


----------



## LiquidHaus

iamjanco said:


> Thanks for those. Was just trying to find them over on EVGA site, but their forum tools leave a lot to be desired.
> 
> *Edit:* *found the thread*.
> 
> As for mounting the MP5 block, I'll use the slots in its backplate to set up for screw mounting in the KPE backplate replacement I'm working on. I'll need to get my hands on at least one of those MP5 blocks of course, or a very good photo of its backside against a white background, accompanied by accurate dims.
> 
> Again, out of the box, the only real drawbacks I see to using the MP5 block are the differences between the fitting connections on the parallel and series versions; which could add limitations to which slots you can use on various motherboards depending on how you want to hook your cooling lines up. That won't be a problem for me on the SR-3 Dark on the bench, but if I decide I want to move the card to another setup it could be.




I hear ya on the fitting connections with the MP5 block. I have the serial kit coming my way, so I'm not worried about space.

I found this on their website too:










That should work. If you need anything else from them, I can ask as well.

I saw that backplate and thought it very interesting as well, though I considered it over the top.

My original plan was to use a Bitspower HDD block on the backplate of my older FTW3...










And still might, depending upon the MP5 fitment and backplate situation overall.


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> I hear ya on the fitting connections with the MP5 block. I have the serial kit coming my way, so I'm not worried about space.
> 
> I found this on their website too:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That should work. If you need anything else from them, I can ask as well.
> 
> I saw that backplate and thought it very interesting as well, though I considered it over the top.
> 
> My original plan was to use a Bitspower HDD block on the backplate of my older FTW3...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And still might, depending upon the MP5 fitment and backplate situation overall.


Yeah, I've got *two of these* sitting on the shelf here that I never added to my 900Ps. Could be a possibility as well.


----------



## LiquidHaus

iamjanco said:


> Yeah, I've got *two of these* sitting on the shelf here that I never added to my 900Ps. Could be a possibility as well.


Oh that's a really clean solution as well! I'm excited to see what you come up with, my friend.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Section31 said:


> Meanwhile i just made something i am going to killed for on ocn. It’s only for science unlikely i use in reality for long time. Excessive RGB Mo-Ra3.
> 
> View attachment 2511780


bought the same fans for my phobya 1260 but in white as im planning some upgrades on it... as you know bcuz "i cant do nothing like a mora" customization wise.. 

catch a good sale on them for $30 a pop


----------



## iamjanco

Interesting posts by a ShawnB420 over in the eVGA forum ( @Shawnb99 is this you? ):

*Source* (scroll down the page to find them).


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> Interesting posts by a ShawnB420 over in the eVGA forum ( @Shawnb99 is this you? ):


Yep that’s me.


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> Interesting posts by a ShawnB420 over in the eVGA forum ( @Shawnb99 is this you? ):
> 
> *Source* (scroll down the page to find them).
> 
> View attachment 2512158
> 
> 
> View attachment 2512159


me and shawnb99 are everywhere lol. Except you can tell its me since Section31 is the common tag.


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> Yep that’s me.


I'll likely order one if and when it becomes available.



Section31 said:


> me and shawnb99 are everywhere lol. Except you can tell its me since Section31 is the common tag.


Chuckle, aren't we all


----------



## Phroz3

@Optimus WC How is it going on being able to order a replacement back thermal pad for the FTW3 block? I contacted fuji and they will not sell to a consumer directly. Also, we had chatted about a black gasket. How do I go about getting that? Thanks.


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> @Optimus WC How is it going on being able to order a replacement back thermal pad for the FTW3 block? I contacted fuji and they will not sell to a consumer directly. Also, we had chatted about a black gasket. How do I go about getting that? Thanks.


I think the best option is rebuy an block (say an strix/etc) and resell off your GPU + block. That's my plan if i get 3080TI Strix. You will be able to recover msrp for at least 3-4months.

Ask them about the black gasket, i got through emailing them. Somewhere in USPS system.


----------



## Phroz3

Section31 said:


> I think the best option is rebuy an block (say an strix/etc) and resell off your GPU + block. That's my plan if i get 3080TI Strix. You will be able to recover msrp for at least 3-4months.
> 
> Ask them about the black gasket, i got through emailing them. Somewhere in USPS system.


I did ask them through email but they never sent anything. Did you end up going the RMA with the FTW card?


----------



## Section31

Phroz3 said:


> I did ask them through email but they never sent anything. Did you end up going the RMA with the FTW card?


I did. It's an better card but still looking at sidegrade to 3080TI strix and new Optimus Block. Either that HWL Rad/Brass Tubing caused enough damage that if i can resell the GPU + Block at costs(hoping above) i will consider it. Basically got some cosmetic scratches from overtightening the acrylic screws after cleaning. I have to order in new round of Optimus Soft Tube Compression Fittings as results whenever they get in stock. Not including the addittional fittings i just bought for the rig swapping from brass to acrylic/petg.

I just got the black gasket too.


----------



## Section31

Corsair Satin Tubing. Nice match with Optimus.

Got one of this for the job


----------



## JustinThyme

I’ll make this short and sweet. The updates came after finally getting a response from the flat block contact I sent 4 months ago. Posting up screen shot of the post. The last sentence said just contact me here for fun to get a top only which I did. Well without sling as much mud and posting a C&P of the very NASTY PM I got (although I said I would) more shots were fired across my bow than the recent posts here. Yes I’ve said several times that if they keep up like they are they won’t have an audience much longer and that lack of presence and radio silence only leads to one conclusion. I’ve also said more than once that I really wanted them to succeed and it was suggested that I was spouting off because I didn’t get a free block from them. In the beginning they offered one and I declined and ordered one instead as I wanted a random production sample. Then they offered up the blemish flat top “Block Only” for the asking calling my name in the post and I said sure I’d like to try one out. I already have a cold plate. I’ll leave it at that although there were a good thousand words of nastiness with the pitch entered in that they have 3 people doing customer service and expanding 10x. I suggested they get those 3 people making a presence instead of a thread becoming general discussion. The PMs continued until I said I was going to C&P them and post them here and on social media. Not very nice at all. They rescinded the offer of the flat top only so I bought the whole blem Sig V2 flat to test it out as the First Sig V2 does better without the oring in it. Ordered it over the weekend and it showed today.

Enough of that but I still reserve my right to business predictions. Let’s just hope the presence and updates continue as I really do wish them well and to succeed as a company in the market in North America as more competition drives innovation from all.

Them Blem just has minor unevenness in the plating of the block, nothing that noticeable. The copper cold plate has no blemishes. I’ll be installing it and giving it the same run though I did with the SigV2 standard mount and the EK Magnitude normal and flat cold plate. As of now the better performing is very marginally the Magnitude with the flat cold plate so let’s see how this flat SigV2 top stacks up. Both are meant for direct die but my stock IHS just doesn’t have much of a bow at all. Again I’m not here to call a king of the hill, just comparisons as they are both competitive thermally with the EK costing a good bit more and excels in one test only. Low flow rate. The microfins on the EK cold plates are nowhere near as fine as the Optimus and as such do not present much resistance. Personally I don’t care about resistance. The way I see it is if you aren’t getting enough flow you need pump/s either in more quantity or more a$$.

So Optimus my best wishes are still with you even after that volley of nastiness. People only expect two things. Communication and deliver on promises. Pretty simple.

Just to refresh everyone’s memory here’s the screen shot of the post. They said they were up for sale but also stated in the last sentence just for fun if anyone wants just the top to contact them here. I did and it took 4 MONTHS to get the response I did that caught me off guard and actually chapped my a$$. I had to take a few days of cool down time before deciding not to post those messages across the web.
Does anyone see anything differently that I did. I know I’m not the only one that posted behind saying I’ll take one for fun and test it out and no reply for 4 months. 


Either way I BOUGHT one and will test it out and see how it does.


----------



## iamjanco

So it looks like EVGA's Hydro Copper Block kit for the KPE won't make out the door this week (which somewhat torques my jaws a bit), so now it's time to decide which universal block might be best while we wait on Optimus. The smaller Koolance universal block seems to be the block of choice, but going to see if I can make their larger universal block work (even if it means designing a new copper plate to replace the oem plate the gpu is surrounded by):

*GPU-230 Cold Plate, 45mm x 45mm (1.8in x 1.8in) Part No. GPU-230*










If I can't make it work, then I'll go with the slightly smaller gpu block others are using. The difference between the two blocks is roughly 5mm on the sides (the larger block has 1.8 inch coverage; the smaller block, 1.4 inch).



JustinThyme said:


> I’ll make this short and sweet.
> 
> ----- 8< snip -----


I'm a strong believer in the customer always comes first, regardless of whether that customer is obviously a jerk or not. That also applies to the attention I give a customer's reported experience, even if some might consider it overly anecdotal. Both of those come from my almost 50 years of doing business as an adult with others AND having worked for some pretty large and very well known companies. I believe positive experiences do help make a company; while negative ones do just the opposite.

I've followed your stories for quite a while now, and do appreciate what you've shared with us. Thanks for them.


----------



## JustinThyme

A few shots of what blemishes I saw. Won’t be noticeable. I’m more interested in performance gains.


----------



## blitzraider

JustinThyme said:


> A few shots of what blemishes I saw. Won’t be noticeable. I’m more interested in performance gains.
> ...


Is that one of the blemish versions? It's not bad honestly. Bottom looks a little scratched up, but any use on a new one would probably cause something similar.


----------



## Section31

blitzraider said:


> Is that one of the blemish versions? It's not bad honestly. Bottom looks a little scratched up, but any use on a new one would probably cause something similar.


Most of there blemish stuff is quite good. That stuff happens after wear and tear on new stuff


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

*REPLACEMENT GPU THERMAL PADS: *later today we'll be selling the 0.5mm Fujis in a small sheet you can use to make the replacements you need. We were concerned with getting enough from Fuji but now we'll have a regular supply, no issues there. 

*BIG BACK PADS: *The 3.0 are very hard to source from Fuji because they're an unusual size and thickness. So at this time, we can't sell replacements for those, they are held for production blocks. However, the good news is the backplate pads are extremely flexible and able to be reformed. There should be zero reasons to need a replacement backplate pad, even if you rip it into pieces, because of how much squish there is. And the back of the PCB is very forgiving from a thermal perspective. 

*BLACK GPU GASKETS:* We'll have them for order on the website for like a buck or something, basically pay for shipping to get one. Or we can throw one in with another order.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> *REPLACEMENT GPU THERMAL PADS: *later today we'll be selling the 0.5mm Fujis in a small sheet you can use to make the replacements you need. We were concerned with getting enough from Fuji but now we'll have a regular supply, no issues there.
> 
> *BIG BACK PADS: *The 3.0 are very hard to source from Fuji because they're an unusual size and thickness. So at this time, we can't sell replacements for those, they are held for production blocks. However, the good news is the backplate pads are extremely flexible and able to be reformed. There should be zero reasons to need a replacement backplate pad, even if you rip it into pieces, because of how much squish there is. And the back of the PCB is very forgiving from a thermal perspective.
> 
> *BLACK GPU GASKETS:* We'll have them for order on the website for like a buck or something, basically pay for shipping to get one. Or we can throw one in with another order.


Thank you for the updates. Watercoolers here really appreciate your products


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC how thick is the Active backplate for the KPE block? Reason I'm asking is I'm attempting to mount mine vertically but am running into spacing issues. Mainly the back of the card ends up being millimeters away from the DIMM.2 slot

Card really looks funny vertically upside down


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Most of there blemish stuff is quite good. That stuff happens after wear and tear on new stuff


The cold plate on the one first one I bought after getting replaced still look like new. The top where the mounts screw down is another story as well as fitting ports. The two side by side are quite different in plating. Color is completely different. The blem actually looks brighter and more shiny than the non blem. Blem is on the left.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> *REPLACEMENT GPU THERMAL PADS: *later today we'll be selling the 0.5mm Fujis in a small sheet you can use to make the replacements you need. We were concerned with getting enough from Fuji but now we'll have a regular supply, no issues there.
> 
> *BIG BACK PADS: *The 3.0 are very hard to source from Fuji because they're an unusual size and thickness. So at this time, we can't sell replacements for those, they are held for production blocks. However, the good news is the backplate pads are extremely flexible and able to be reformed. There should be zero reasons to need a replacement backplate pad, even if you rip it into pieces, because of how much squish there is. And the back of the PCB is very forgiving from a thermal perspective.
> 
> *BLACK GPU GASKETS:* We'll have them for order on the website for like a buck or something, basically pay for shipping to get one. Or we can throw one in with another order.


I'll definitely pick one of those black gaskets up soon since my white one turned brown. Will the new Strix and KP blocks ship with a black or white gasket? I have both of those cards and will probably pick up a block for both.


----------



## Section31

Edge0fsanity said:


> I'll definitely pick one of those black gaskets up soon since my white one turned brown. Will the new Strix and KP blocks ship with a black or white gasket? I have both of those cards and will probably pick up a block for both.


Gpu block collecting cool


----------



## Biggu

JustinThyme said:


> The cold plate on the one first one I bought after getting replaced still look like new. The top where the mounts screw down is another story as well as fitting ports. The two side by side are quite different in plating. Color is completely different. The blem actually looks brighter and more shiny than the non blem. Blem is on the left.



Sounds like maybe the blem included some exterior plating issues. Im curious if the inside has good plating or if its the same as the outside.


----------



## Shawnb99

Biggu said:


> Sounds like maybe the blem included some exterior plating issues. Im curious if the inside has good plating or if its the same as the outside.


I like the look of the blemish one better, if that's not just lighting making it look like that and is the plating then IMHO I think it looks better.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Sounds like maybe the blem included some exterior plating issues. Im curious if the inside has good plating or if its the same as the outside.


Either way optimus blemish are great way to support the brand.


----------



## Kashtan

What can replace the o-ring for signatures V2? It was not included in the kit. I would ask to be sent, but I'm not sure what will happen, because the bolts for the coldplate were not sent either. Will the coldplate hold on to two bolts?


----------



## Kashtan

Fasteners i know - M4X5 countersunk screw. Depth here is 10,6mm. 
What about correct size of the o-rings - small inside and large outer? Diameter and thickness?


----------



## Section31

Almost done, just that one big heatkiller order.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Almost done, just that one big heatkiller order.
> 
> View attachment 2512662
> 
> View attachment 2512663
> 
> 
> View attachment 2512664


Waiting for mine to ship as well. The availability started 05.27, I expected to see shipping on the 28th. I'm a little disappointed but I'm also just excited to get building.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Waiting for mine to ship as well. The availability started 05.27, I expected to see shipping on the 28th. I'm a little disappointed but I'm also just excited to get building.


Aren’t we all. Mine awaiting custom clearance certiciate. Some people with smaller orders already got there's.


----------



## Shawnb99

Replacement coldlate ****ing leaks. Just had it leak all over my ram, CPU and MB. It's leaking where the coldplate mets the rest of the block. Not ****ing happy at all


----------



## KedarWolf

Shawnb99 said:


> Replacement coldlate ****ing leaks. Just had it leak all over my ram, CPU and MB. It's leaking where the coldplate mets the rest of the block. Not ****ing happy at all


Pointing a hairdryer at your motherboard a few hours a really good way to make sure all the coolant is gone. It's worked twice for me, once when a block leaked, the second time recently when I neglected to plug the two back plugs on my Strix RTX 3090 water block and topped of the rad and turned it on. Dumbass moment there.


----------



## Shawnb99

KedarWolf said:


> Pointing a hairdryer at your motherboard a few hours a really good way to make sure all the coolant is gone. It's worked twice for me, once when a block leaked, the second time recently when I neglected to plug the two back plugs on my Strix RTX 3090 water block and topped of the rad and turned it on. Dumbass moment there.


Yeah I'm going to do that after, also leave it for a few days as well and let it completely dry


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Aren’t we all. Mine awaiting custom clearance certiciate. Some people with smaller orders already got there's.


What's your plan to clean the rads prior to putting them in the loop?

Also, what's it say under "Status" for your order? I just see "PAID"


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Replacement coldlate ****ing leaks. Just had it leak all over my ram, CPU and MB. It's leaking where the coldplate mets the rest of the block. Not ****ing happy at all


Did you screw it tight. I had it happen because i didn’t screw it tight enough It has to extra tight i found


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> What's your plan to clean the rads prior to putting them in the loop?
> 
> Also, what's it say under "Status" for your order? I just see "PAID"


Paid and not sure but some distilled water. Not going vinegar route


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Paid and not sure but some distilled water. Not going vinegar route


Any reason in particular for no vinegar? I was going to fill with vinegar, shake, and then let it soak for 2-3 hours .. then flush with hot water, then distilled, but obviously if that's not necessary, I'd rather save the time.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Any reason in particular for no vinegar? I was going to fill with vinegar, shake, and then let it soak for 2-3 hours .. then flush with hot water, then distilled, but obviously if that's not necessary, I'd rather save the time.


Doesn't seem neccessary to what we saw from the reddit video


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Doesn't seem neccessary to what we saw from the reddit video


Yeah, I seen that too. I guess I'm mentally going sort of overkill since this is my first build.. but better to save the time so I can focus on other areas. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> Replacement coldlate ****ing leaks. Just had it leak all over my ram, CPU and MB. It's leaking where the coldplate mets the rest of the block. Not ****ing happy at all


Wow, sorry to hear that. Any idea why the leak occurred?

I have to admit that it doesn't take much in the way of the negative anecdotal to sway me away from a product, especially when the sources are longer term, established forum members. There's just way too much hype about a lot of things on the 'net, and I usually veer away from it. I also take influencers like a grain of salt, though I do appreciate the content they share just because it allows me to take a closer at the products they're covering that I don't have direct access to. 

Anyway, hope you manage to get things straightened out and that your parts aren't totaled.


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> Wow, sorry to hear that. Any idea why the leak occurred?
> 
> I have to admit that it doesn't take much in the way of the negative anecdotal to sway me away from a product, especially when the sources are longer term, established forum members. There's just way too much hype about a lot of things on the 'net, and I usually veer away from it. I also take influencers like a grain of salt, though I do appreciate the content they share just because it allows me to take a closer at the products they're covering that I don't have direct access to.
> 
> Anyway, hope you manage to get things straightened out and that your parts aren't totaled.


At first glance it looks to be a leak between the cold plate and the block, is screwed down as tight as can be but will try again. Should be ok water wise as nothing was on so should be able to dry it all off. Worrying part is had to take off the whole block to get to the leak so possible liquid metal on the MB, as I had to clean up a little bit of it as I was using the hair dryer. I'm going to give that a bath in alcohol just in case. Lucky I have enough give in tubing to leak test it again without the MB tray in so I'll try that tomorrow and see if it leaks again or not

It's a replacement cold plate for one that flaked so not sure why it's leaking unless I didn't tighten it down enough or it's warped. Rest of the block wasn't replaced. I'll see if it leaks again tomorrow.


----------



## Kashtan

I’m wrong - m4 not correct for waterblock. Also I found small o-ring inside, outer o-ring I continue to finding. Anybody know large o-ring size and what is type of screw for cold plate ?


----------



## Kashtan

I’m write to email, see.


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> Wow, sorry to hear that. Any idea why the leak occurred?
> 
> I have to admit that it doesn't take much in the way of the negative anecdotal to sway me away from a product, especially when the sources are longer term, established forum members. There's just way too much hype about a lot of things on the 'net, and I usually veer away from it. I also take influencers like a grain of salt, though I do appreciate the content they share just because it allows me to take a closer at the products they're covering that I don't have direct access to.
> 
> Anyway, hope you manage to get things straightened out and that your parts aren't totaled.


I hope same for shawnb99 but duds happens. I had an swiftech heirloom skf block literally leak out of mounting bracket. They replaced it.


----------



## Kashtan

My question is closed, screws and o-rings separately purchase direct from site.


----------



## dwolvin

Glad you are covered, did you ever figure out what happened to the large o-ring?


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> Doesn't seem neccessary to what we saw from the reddit video



Can you post a link to the video please?


----------



## Shawnb99

Looks like it was just a badly seated O-ring. Leak appears to be gone, least at that spot found my AC temp probe was leaking.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Can you post a link to the video please?


On reddit watercoling section. Couple days ago.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Looks like it was just a badly seated O-ring. Leak appears to be gone, least at that spot found my AC temp probe was leaking.


Hate those. Happened to me before too when cleaning gpu blocks for friends.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Hate those. Happened to me before too when cleaning gpu blocks for friends.


Yeah just bunched up thus creating a gap. Looks to be fine now, just gotta let it all dry for a few days while I go out of town


----------



## asdf893

Has optimus commented on an updated AM4 block to match zen3 hot spots?


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> Has optimus commented on an updated AM4 block to match zen3 hot spots?


I don't see any movement on that coming. AM5/LGA1700 will require new CPU Blocks.


----------



## LiquidHaus

any updates on the KPE block?


----------



## Gunslinger.

LiquidHaus said:


> any updates on the KPE block?


Q4




2022


----------



## Avacado

LiquidHaus said:


> any updates on the KPE block?


Any updates on YOUR products?


----------



## asdf893

LiquidHaus said:


> Figured out a solution to cool the KPE while waiting for the Optimus block. Simply am not paying $300 for Asetek trash.
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:


nice! I've done this a few times with EK GPU die blocks. Might as well keep the shroud off while you're at it


----------



## asdf893

Gunslinger. said:


> Q4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2022


LOL


----------



## LiquidHaus

Avacado said:


> Any updates on YOUR products?


Haha, unfortunately not at the moment! I'm just one guy and I've got my hands in all sorts of projects at the moment! CNC'd RGB shrouds will be within the next month or so however!


----------



## criskoe

@Optimus WC 

The Absolute block should totally work on a FTW3 3080 Ti right? Am I wrong for assuming this?


----------



## Optimus WC

criskoe said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> The Absolute block should totally work on a FTW3 3080 Ti right? Am I wrong for assuming this?


3080ti looks good to go


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> 3080ti looks good to go


Nice to know. Hope for new products coming out


----------



## criskoe

Optimus WC said:


> 3080ti looks good to go


Nice thanks. I got in pretty early on the EVGA Elite que yesterday and I have a 20% off coupon so im pretty stoked. hopefully get it soon. But super glad I can just use the absolute block I already have.


----------



## acoustic

Optimus WC said:


> 3080ti looks good to go


Hopefully I get notified by next week, and I’ll be placing an order on a block. Get ready to turn those CNC machines into overdrive!! Lol


----------



## criskoe

acoustic said:


> Hopefully I get notified by next week, and I’ll be placing an order on a block. Get ready to turn those CNC machines into overdrive!! Lol


What PN and time did you get In at? Your Probably better off ordering the block now. It will mostly likely take 6 weeks for the block.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> What PN and time did you get In at? Your Probably better off ordering the block now. It will mostly likely take 6 weeks for the block.


 I agree also.


----------



## Biggu

so any eta on the strix block?


----------



## Optimus WC

Orders open soon


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Orders open soon
> 
> View attachment 2513107
> 
> 
> View attachment 2513109
> 
> 
> Absolutely beautiful


----------



## BULLGOD19

Any plans for a black acetal top for the FTW block?


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Orders open soon
> 
> View attachment 2513107
> View attachment 2513108
> View attachment 2513109


Count me in. I just possibly got my hands on one.


----------



## newls1

HEY OPTIMUS COOLING...... Quick question please sir, Ive had your AMD Foundation block in my closet and just realized I could order a "Intel" mount seperatly on your site, so I just ordered the Intel mount, and mounting hardware.... so am I correct in thinking now this will convert my AMD Foundation block, to the Intel Foundation block now? Certainly hope it will or I just wasted 43$ LOL.... Appreciate any feedback... Hoping this block will do better then the old EK one im using now.


----------



## Optimus WC

newls1 said:


> HEY OPTIMUS COOLING...... Quick question please sir, Ive had your AMD Foundation block in my closet and just realized I could order a "Intel" mount seperatly on your site, so I just ordered the Intel mount, and mounting hardware.... so am I correct in thinking now this will convert my AMD Foundation block, to the Intel Foundation block now? Certainly hope it will or I just wasted 43$ LOL.... Appreciate any feedback... Hoping this block will do better then the old EK one im using now.


Correct! 

And for FTW blocks, we're working on getting the material for all black blocks


----------



## newls1

Optimus WC said:


> Correct!
> 
> And for FTW blocks, we're working on getting the material for all black blocks


Excellent! Thank you sir. Would my order ship in a timely manner, or are the mounts on weeks back order?


----------



## blitzraider

Optimus WC said:


> Orders open soon
> 
> View attachment 2513107
> View attachment 2513108
> View attachment 2513109


Will there be any active (ie watercooled) backplate options on the future, or no plans at the moment?


----------



## HyperMatrix

blitzraider said:


> Will there be any active (ie watercooled) backplate options on the future, or no plans at the moment?


There will be for Kingpin and they said they'll take a look at it for other blocks depending on demand.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> There will be for Kingpin and they said they'll take a look at it for other blocks depending on demand.


The active backplate i feel is overrated if your going to be at 3080/3080ti level.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Correct!
> 
> And for FTW blocks, we're working on getting the material for all black blocks


Any update on fittings too. If i get the deal confirmed i will need one of your strix blocks.


----------



## cluster_edge

Optimus WC said:


> Orders open soon
> 
> View attachment 2513107
> View attachment 2513108
> View attachment 2513109


Are there any projected temperatures for memory on 3090 while HEAVY load?


----------



## sakete

Hey guys, I've been out of the loop on things for a while. There was this case announced by Lian Li a few months ago, though it was more of a prototype. Has there been any news on that? I really need a better case with better airflow, in my current case I get watertemps of 40C (delta T of 12-13).

Asking it here as all the die hards hang out in this thread 

Otherwise, my FTW3 block from Optimus has been doing excellent, getting temps about 10C above water temps on my 3080 FTW3. It all works, so I've been quiet here for a few months


----------



## criskoe

sakete said:


> Hey guys, I've been out of the loop on things for a while. There was this case announced by Lian Li a few months ago, though it was more of a prototype. Has there been any news on that? I really need a better case with better airflow, in my current case I get watertemps of 40C (delta T of 12-13).
> 
> Asking it here as all the die hards hang out in this thread
> 
> Otherwise, my FTW3 block from Optimus has been doing excellent, getting temps about 10C above water temps on my 3080 FTW3. It all works, so I've been quiet here for a few months


You talking about the lian li v3000 Plus? No news that ive seen yet.... Im hoping it comes soon to tho.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Hey guys, I've been out of the loop on things for a while. There was this case announced by Lian Li a few months ago, though it was more of a prototype. Has there been any news on that? I really need a better case with better airflow, in my current case I get watertemps of 40C (delta T of 12-13).
> 
> Asking it here as all the die hards hang out in this thread
> 
> Otherwise, my FTW3 block from Optimus has been doing excellent, getting temps about 10C above water temps on my 3080 FTW3. It all works, so I've been quiet here for a few months


Expect it next year imo.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> You talking about the lian li v3000 Plus? No news that ive seen yet.... Im hoping it comes soon to tho.


Still need the radiator? I am doing second groupbuy for them for friends some room still. You just contact markus at heatkiller support then add to my order, you can pay your part to them directly (paypal). PM me if interested


----------



## iamjanco

A water block for the KPE is called for by the Herr Doktor Frank. The KPE dwarfs the Dark Hero and has to to be installed in slot 2 until the CPU is on water as well.










Heck, the air cooler dwarfs the board as well.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> The active backplate i feel is overrated if your going to be at 3080/3080ti level.


Yes and no. The 3080/Ti won't have the problem of needing to cool the VRAM on the back of the card. So it won't be critical. But you'll still get the benefit of keeping the core and components cooler. Heat soaks through the board. This is basically giving you extra cooling coverage on the card. Again, it's not of critical importance on a 3080/Ti as you mentioned. For example if you're happy with the performance of the EVGA Hydro Copper blocks, you shouldn't worry about active cooled backplates. But personally I've been running active cooled backplates for 6 years now and am a big fan.


----------



## LiquidHaus

HyperMatrix said:


> Yes and no. The 3080/Ti won't have the problem of needing to cool the VRAM on the back of the card. So it won't be critical. But you'll still get the benefit of keeping the core and components cooler. Heat soaks through the board. This is basically giving you extra cooling coverage on the card. Again, it's not of critical importance on a 3080/Ti as you mentioned. For example if you're happy with the performance of the EVGA Hydro Copper blocks, you shouldn't worry about active cooled backplates. But personally I've been running active cooled backplates for 6 years now and am a big fan.


Would love to see your 6 year old solutions to active backplate cooling.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Yes and no. The 3080/Ti won't have the problem of needing to cool the VRAM on the back of the card. So it won't be critical. But you'll still get the benefit of keeping the core and components cooler. Heat soaks through the board. This is basically giving you extra cooling coverage on the card. Again, it's not of critical importance on a 3080/Ti as you mentioned. For example if you're happy with the performance of the EVGA Hydro Copper blocks, you shouldn't worry about active cooled backplates. But personally I've been running active cooled backplates for 6 years now and am a big fan.


I looked at getting aquacomputer strix block as temporary solution while i wait for optimus but went with cheap bp block instead.

I got the deal secured for the 3080ti


----------



## Section31

Anyone here want an FTW3 Block Used. Since i got an Strix coming, I have to re-order the block.


----------



## newls1

would you consider the Foundation block an upgrade over a EK Velocity block?


----------



## acoustic

newls1 said:


> would you consider the Foundation block an upgrade over a EK Velocity block?


Yes, but I don’t think there will be some insane crazy difference.


----------



## newls1

yeah, completely get that, of course. Was just wondering cause my foundation block is currently an "AMD" block, but just bought the conversion mounting plate to make it an "Intel" block, so im gonna remove my old EK Velocity block on my 10900k, and place this newly transformed Foundation block on the 10900k... I mean for 30ish bucks to convert this block over to intel, I figured it was prob worth it?!


----------



## acoustic

I think it was as well. Are you running direct-die? I’d go that route if you’re looking for better temps.


----------



## Section31

newls1 said:


> would you consider the Foundation block an upgrade over a EK Velocity block?


 I wouldn’t buy an new cpu block at this point. Am5/Lga1700 Require new cpu blocks anyways


----------



## Shawnb99

Replacement coldplate that got lost in the mail just arrived today. Only two weeks after being lost


----------



## HyperMatrix

LiquidHaus said:


> Would love to see your 6 year old solutions to active backplate cooling.


Not my solution. Definitely not that clever or resourceful. Just the Aquacomputer block with heatpipe from back side directly into your liquid. I remember seeing astronomical differences in backplate temp with/without it. I think around 30-40C diff if memory serves me right. Was definitely appreciated especially since I as running 3x Titan cards in SLI at the time.

For this gen I stuck a 4x ram block on the back of the Kingpin pasted on there with Kryonaut. It worked very well. I was able to complete a Port Royal run at 2190MHz without any throttling on the AIO hybrid cooler with I believe +1400 to mem, all on the stock bios. I picked up a 6x ram block and planned to use it by direct mounting it to the Optimus backplate until they announced their active cooled backplate.


----------



## KedarWolf

I feel bad posting this in the Optimus forum, but I went with an EKWB Strix OC 3090 waterblock knowing an active backplate was in the making which is now available for preorder.

Even without the active backplate and just the regular EKWB backplate, my memory temps are topping out around 65C looping Port Royal. This with Thermright pads which I'm upgrading to GELID Ultimate 15 wm/k pads. I hear they are soft and compress well, not hard like Fujipoly and Thermalright pads, but I haven't received them yet and this remains to be seen.


----------



## newls1

Section31 said:


> I wouldn’t buy an new cpu block at this point. Am5/Lga1700 Require new cpu blocks anyways


if you read the thread, no one bought a new block......


----------



## Section31

newls1 said:


> if you read the thread, no one bought a new block......


Read it wrong. I still feel not worth investing more into cpu blocks as the gains aren't massive.


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> I feel bad posting this in the Optimus forum, but I went with an EKWB Strix OC 3090 waterblock knowing an active backplate was in the making which is now available for preorder.
> 
> Even without the active backplate and just the regular EKWB backplate, my memory temps are topping out around 65C looping Port Royal. This with Thermright pads which I'm upgrading to GELID Ultimate 15 wm/k pads. I hear they are soft and compress well, not hard like Fujipoly and Thermalright pads, but I haven't received them yet and this remains to be seen.


You did nothing wrong. There is no guarantee active backplate (which would cool the best) will be coming to Optimus. The active backplate only really helps in situation where the back memory gets fully ulitized. You probably should examine going to 3080TI if you don't need the 24gb VRAM and recover some nice cash.


----------



## KedarWolf

Section31 said:


> You did nothing wrong. There is no guarantee active backplate (which would cool the best) will be coming to Optimus. The active backplate only really helps in situation where the back memory gets fully ulitized. You probably should examine going to 3080TI if you don't need the 24gb VRAM and recover some nice cash.


Peeps are selling this card for like $4000 CAD here, but I really want a Kingpin card, if the queue opens up for me, likely sell my Strix for just enough to cover the cost of the Kingpin.


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> Peeps are selling this card for like $4000 CAD here, but I really want a Kingpin card, if the queue opens up for me, likely sell my Strix for just enough to cover the cost of the Kingpin.


Be careful as per market different but there are lot of people unloading cards atm in some big markets and prices are coming down.


----------



## KedarWolf

Section31 said:


> Be careful as per market different but there are lot of people unloading cards atm in some big markets and prices are coming down.


I'd be undercutting everyone else selling locally in this city of five million peeps, as I'd want just enough to get the Kingpin, and maybe, if I can, enough to cover the cost of a Kingpin Optimus block when they come out.

I'm in the EVGA Elite program and have Auto-Notify enabled for the Kingpin, but been months since I signed up, and nada.


----------



## newls1

Section31 said:


> Read it wrong. I still feel not worth investing more into cpu blocks as the gains aren't massive.


only 30$.... Worst case senario, the block looks way more fancy and elegant!


----------



## Optimus WC

KedarWolf said:


> I feel bad posting this in the Optimus forum, but I went with an EKWB Strix OC 3090 waterblock knowing an active backplate was in the making which is now available for preorder.
> 
> Even without the active backplate and just the regular EKWB backplate, my memory temps are topping out around 65C looping Port Royal. This with Thermright pads which I'm upgrading to GELID Ultimate 15 wm/k pads. I hear they are soft and compress well, not hard like Fujipoly and Thermalright pads, but I haven't received them yet and this remains to be seen.


Hey hey, no worries  What numbers are you (and anyone else) looking for with an active backplate? 

We're discussing it now, but there isn't really a consensus around what people want/need from active. Thoughts?


----------



## dwolvin

Personally, geek cred but probably actually needed in a very small number of edge cases. If an overclocked 3090 can be cooled from the front with a great block and a passive backplate, I can't image any really needing active backplates.


----------



## Section31

newls1 said:


> only 30$.... Worst case senario, the block looks way more fancy and elegant!


Lol. I am already dreading what will happen with my optimus am4 when i get optimus lga1700


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey hey, no worries  What numbers are you (and anyone else) looking for with an active backplate?
> 
> We're discussing it now, but there isn't really a consensus around what people want/need from active. Thoughts?


Keep us informed. I want to be on first batch of strix block for sure.


----------



## Optimus WC

dwolvin said:


> Personally, geek cred but probably actually needed in a very small number of edge cases. If an overclocked 3090 can be cooled from the front with a great block and a passive backplate, I can't image any really needing active backplates.



Yeah because currently our XL Heatsink backplate w/ block has the same rear mem temp but vastly better GPU die temp as the EK block w/ active back. So the question is what actual use case do people need for performance


----------



## dwolvin

I said great block, not EK...


----------



## Optimus WC

Lol 

A better question: What programs you guys use that you need gains? GPU Mining? Minecraft?


----------



## dwolvin

For me, the hardest thing pushing my system is Star Citizen, (leaving the drama out of it) it seems to push a system harder than Cyberpunk at high res 3440x1440 w/ high graphics.

Oh- any hope of a lower restriction CPU block? Or are the current ones it for a while?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Optimus WC said:


> Lol
> 
> A better question: What programs you guys use that you need gains? GPU Mining? Minecraft?


Once the kpe block is out I'll be using it for mining, games, and benchmarking. I mostly want the active backplate for benching more than anything. Mining and gaming temps are fine on my ftw3 with your block/xl bp.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> Hey hey, no worries  What numbers are you (and anyone else) looking for with an active backplate?
> 
> We're discussing it now, but there isn't really a consensus around what people want/need from active. Thoughts?


From personal experience after sticking a 4x ram block on the back of the Kingpin, the icx memory sensors near the block were usually around the 50C mark even with a +1350MHz OC (as opposed to previously causing a crash when hitting 80C+ without the block) This was good enough cooling imo, but just needed more coverage/contact area. Restrictive CPU block style cooling wouldn't be needed. So I bought a 6x ram block in anticipation of putting it on a proper water block when you release it. With a full active cooled backplate though...I'm tempted to look at pushing memory OC to +2000MHz (23.5GBps) with a little extra voltage. 

Increasing memory bandwidth for a performance boost is likely easier than pushing GPU core clock higher past a certain point, especially depending on your bin. And some games like Horizon Zero Dawn do respond linearly to increased memory bandwidth. So being able to cool the memory and push the OC higher could result in significant real world performance benefits. And with the classified tool and the Kingpin cards in general having the best memory overclocking of any other 3090 cards out there, a good active cooled backplate design that keeps memory temperatures under 40C could offer a serious competitive edge.


----------



## Section31

Ekwb i know but there torque fittings are great fit with optimus


----------



## Section31




----------



## Section31

Look very close to eachother


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Lol
> 
> A better question: What programs you guys use that you need gains? GPU Mining? Minecraft?


Eagerly awaiting your strix block launch.


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> Eagerly awaiting your strix block launch.


+1 Im hoping its this Friday but also kinda not becuase usually my Fridays are busy and I miss the notifications on when its live.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I just want need a KPE tease.


----------



## onMute

LiquidHaus said:


> I just want need a KPE tease.


Agreed, there has to be a render


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Lol
> 
> A better question: What programs you guys use that you need gains? GPU Mining? Minecraft?


You guys working on lga1700 cpu block yet by chance? It’s release pretty soon.


----------



## HyperMatrix

For anyone interested, HWL GTR radiators just got in stock at PPCS this morning in both white and black. They were the last thing I needed before having to wait on the Optimus Kingpin block. Bought an Optimus signature cpu block as well to try out on my end of the line 11900k. Looking forward to the eventual rebuild.


----------



## Section31

This will do as temp block till Optimus Strix is ready and arrives at my door step. However I will always pay more for optimus quality.


----------



## dwolvin

What is it?


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> What is it?


BP Strix Block (got it cheap).


----------



## dwolvin

Ah, thank you!


----------



## ilal2ielli

Strix block ordered.


----------



## arvinz

ilal2ielli said:


> Strix block ordered.


Same just now. #OP4691 

Can't wait.


----------



## iamjanco

@Optimus WC with the release of the block for the Strix, any chance of an update as to when you might start working on the block for the 3090 K|NGP|N? EVGA's been dragging their feet on their own block which is kinda bland performance wise anyway, and I'd love to avoid sending them any more money and steer it in your direction if the timeline allows.


----------



## Optimus WC

We're working on it now, and also have some thoughts on the backplate. 

We made a custom active backplate and tested it against our XL Heatsink backplate. We don't see a difference in real world performance. Yes, temps are lower, but we weren't able to get higher mhz or see increased benchmarks or hash rates etc etc

Also, our XL Heatsink gets around 74c in the most extreme mining nonsense, matching the EK active backplate. We can drop 20c easily with our active (if memory serves), but it didn't do anything performance-wise. Our cooling on the rest of the card is excellent, so the gains weren't visible, which is a little surprising. 

In any case, what do people want for KP? Lots of requests for active backplates, but it seems that's because of how terrible other "backplates" are -- they're esthetic with a couple cheap pads thrown in there. 

Thoughts?


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> We're working on it now, and also have some thoughts on the backplate.
> 
> We made a custom active backplate and tested it against our XL Heatsink backplate. We don't see a difference in real world performance. Yes, temps are lower, but we weren't able to get higher mhz or see increased benchmarks or hash rates etc etc
> 
> Also, our XL Heatsink gets around 74c in the most extreme mining nonsense, matching the EK active backplate. We can drop 20c easily with our active (if memory serves), but it didn't do anything performance-wise. Our cooling on the rest of the card is excellent, so the gains weren't visible, which is a little surprising.
> 
> In any case, what do people want for KP? Lots of requests for active backplates, but it seems that's because of how terrible other "backplates" are -- they're esthetic with a couple cheap pads thrown in there.
> 
> Thoughts?


I want the active backplate. I want it even more now that you mention 20c drop. I don't care if others don't want it, I'll take the active backplate.


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> I want the active backplate. I want it even more now that you mention 20c drop. I don't care if others don't want it, I'll take the active backplate.


Good to know. To speed things up, we're thinking of releasing with the KP with XL heatsink backplate first, then the add-on active backplate after.


----------



## Biggu

Got my strix block in order. Finally happening!


----------



## Biggu

Shawnb99 said:


> I want the active backplate. I want it even more now that you mention 20c drop. I don't care if others don't want it, I'll take the active backplate.


I’ve got a strix block but I’d like an active back plate even if others don’t I’d rather keep it cooler to prolong life..


----------



## Thebc2

Shawnb99 said:


> I want the active backplate. I want it even more now that you mention 20c drop. I don't care if others don't want it, I'll take the active backplate.


Same, I’ll take one of those too.

Strix block ordered and ekwb active blackplate order cancelled. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## iamjanco

Optimus WC said:


> We're working on it now, and also have some thoughts on the backplate.
> 
> We made a custom active backplate and tested it against our XL Heatsink backplate. We don't see a difference in real world performance. Yes, temps are lower, but we weren't able to get higher mhz or see increased benchmarks or hash rates etc etc
> 
> Also, our XL Heatsink gets around 74c in the most extreme mining nonsense, matching the EK active backplate. We can drop 20c easily with our active (if memory serves), but it didn't do anything performance-wise. Our cooling on the rest of the card is excellent, so the gains weren't visible, which is a little surprising.
> 
> In any case, what do people want for KP? Lots of requests for active backplates, but it seems that's because of how terrible other "backplates" are -- they're esthetic with a couple cheap pads thrown in there.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Shawnb99 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I want the active backplate. I want it even more now that you mention 20c drop. I don't care if others don't want it, I'll take the active backplate.
Click to expand...

I'm with Shawn on this one. I'd like that extra 20c drop. If increased clocks/fps are possible, they can be dealt with after the fact.

You can sign me up now


----------



## alexsoxfan01

Optimus WC said:


> Good to know. To speed things up, we're thinking of releasing with the KP with XL heatsink backplate first, then the add-on active backplate after.


XL heatsink first, Active later has my vote. If the performance difference isn't really that great then offering both seems fine. Also, please keep both colorways, I'm a big fan of the satin silver heatsinks.

I just recently picked up a KPE myself and now need to get rid of a FTW3. Would shipping a FTW3 card with the optimus block installed be a terrible idea? Really just trying to justify being lazy.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> BP Strix Block (got it cheap).


I ran BP blocks on Strix 1080Tis and they were competitive. Beat out the EK blocks. Another surprise is the Phanteks blocks. They have only been at it a couple of years but they make decent GPU blocks as well. I ran them on my 2080Tis until Heatkiller finally produced them. They did well only problem is they used the original backplate that I think is actually detrimental, I pulled it and got better results with the backside nekked. On those cards the stock backplate is suspended and doesnt touch anything so more for looks and acting as an insulator holding heat in. When HK finally released their thats whats been on them ever since. 8C delta under heavy load and they never pass 40C, usually 38-39. VRMs and memory stays cool as well. No way I was putting one of those butt ugly EK blocks on.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Good to know. To speed things up, we're thinking of releasing with the KP with XL heatsink backplate first, then the add-on active backplate after.


Nice gains


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I ran BP blocks on Strix 1080Tis and they were competitive. Beat out the EK blocks. Another surprise is the Phanteks blocks. They have only been at it a couple of years but they make decent GPU blocks as well. I ran them on my 2080Tis until Heatkiller finally produced them. They did well only problem is they used the original backplate that I think is actually detrimental, I pulled it and got better results with the backside nekked. On those cards the stock backplate is suspended and doesnt touch anything so more for looks and acting as an insulator holding heat in. When HK finally released their thats whats been on them ever since. 8C delta under heavy load and they never pass 40C, usually 38-39. VRMs and memory stays cool as well. No way I was putting one of those butt ugly EK blocks on.


Theres an giveaway for one now if you want one.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I'm down for XL heatsink first, active backplate later. I really would like the block sooner, so if the active backplate holds it up a bunch, just release that part later after the block initially.


----------



## KedarWolf

I think I'm still going EK block and active backplate for my Strix. I don't think Optimus will release a Strix active backplate. 

I heard the waterblock and I'm sure the water-cooled backplate will do really well with Gelid Extreme pads as they are decent wm/k and are really soft and compress nicely. 🐺

Using them one guy got a 10c delta over his water temps without the active backplate and an EK block.


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> ...*if the active backplate holds it up a bunch*, just release that part later after the block initially.


That makes sense and is enough for me to say I'm in either way. I still would eventually expect an active back plate though.


----------



## tbrown7552

Optimus WC said:


> We're working on it now, and also have some thoughts on the backplate.
> 
> We made a custom active backplate and tested it against our XL Heatsink backplate. We don't see a difference in real world performance. Yes, temps are lower, but we weren't able to get higher mhz or see increased benchmarks or hash rates etc etc
> 
> Also, our XL Heatsink gets around 74c in the most extreme mining nonsense, matching the EK active backplate. We can drop 20c easily with our active (if memory serves), but it didn't do anything performance-wise. Our cooling on the rest of the card is excellent, so the gains weren't visible, which is a little surprising.
> 
> In any case, what do people want for KP? Lots of requests for active backplates, but it seems that's because of how terrible other "backplates" are -- they're esthetic with a couple cheap pads thrown in there.
> 
> Thoughts?


I like the temp drop and think the active backplate is worth that even if clock gains arent attained. Also i know of a few people that are running two kingpins so the active backplate will have more real world gains there keeping the memory cool where its hard to get alot of airflow


----------



## beavis88

In case to upgrade 3080 ftw3 to 3080 ti, is it ok to reuse backplate thermal pad for optimus waterblock?


----------



## Section31

beavis88 said:


> In case to upgrade 3080 ftw3 to 3080 ti, is it ok to reuse backplate thermal pad for optimus waterblock?


The back thermal pad is durable and reusable


----------



## teamrushpntball

Any chance I could get the dimensions on the new strix block? Or at least the port placement? Have a 5-6 week wait on them and would like to have my distribution plate made and ready to go for when the block arrives.


----------



## beavis88

Section31 said:


> The back thermal pad is durable and reusable


Cool. Thanks.


----------



## Optimus WC

KedarWolf said:


> I think I'm still going EK block and active backplate for my Strix. I don't think Optimus will release a Strix active backplate.
> 
> I heard the waterblock and I'm sure the water-cooled backplate will do really well with Gelid Extreme pads as they are decent wm/k and are really soft and compress nicely. 🐺
> 
> Using them one guy got a 10c delta over his water temps without the active backplate and an EK block.


Hey hey, not sure I follow, of course go with whatever block you want  When it comes to performance, no other block gets close to our die temps, vram temps, vrm temps. The only question is the 3090 rear t-junction temps. 3080/3080ti doesn't matter. So our XL Heatsink has exact same performance as the ek active backplate. 

And that's with no fans in the system, a fan pointing at the backplate and vram temps will drop another 8-10c, beating any active backplate. 

Re: gelid pads, I think there is a lot of marketing hype out there (not just related to them) -- soft and squishy aren't always the best, in fact that usually means they're fudging numbers. One can only get really high wm/k using thin, hard pads. And that's in a very isolated scenario. In the real world, the pads have to be dialed in perfectly (compression amount compared to heat) to get anything close to the measured numbers. 

That said, there is very little to be gained by going higher on wm/k, unless the stock pads are absolute trash. 

Long story short, we're confident our strix block has the absolute best numbers, and not by a little


----------



## Optimus WC

beavis88 said:


> Cool. Thanks.


Correct! In fact, it's a Fujipoly 3mm super high-end pad, it will conform and compress, even if it's chopped into a dozen pieces. I've done it  It molds back together just fine with absolutely zero performance loss. Save yourselves a few bucks, reuse that pad


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC Now that the Strix block is out what's the timeline for the KPE block? Active and non active backplate models


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC Now that the Strix block is out what's the timeline for the KPE block? Active and non active backplate models


We're working on it now, but it's hard to say when we'll feel comfortable with performance, reliability, etc etc. We're also doing some new things with construction to potentially up the performance.

*ACTIVE BACKPLATE OPTIONS:*

*Single terminal (ek style)*
*Tandem terminals (separate terminal for backplate, sticking up next to front block terminal, like binder tabs)*
*Rear block side ports (like MP-5 add-on block)*
*Rear block top ports (like a cpu block stuck on the backplate)*

Single terminal is cleanest, but separate ports allow for unique cooling and routing. Thoughts?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> We're working on it now, but it's hard to say when we'll feel comfortable with performance, reliability, etc etc. We're also doing some new things with construction to potentially up the performance.
> 
> *ACTIVE BACKPLATE OPTIONS:*
> 
> *Single terminal (ek style)*
> *Tandem terminals (separate terminal for backplate, sticking up next to front block terminal, like binder tabs)*
> *Rear block side ports (like MP-5 add-on block)*
> *Rear block top ports (like a cpu block stuck on the backplate)*
> 
> Single terminal is cleanest, but separate ports allow for unique cooling and routing. Thoughts?


I’m also in for an active cooped backplate model for the Kingpin. Even if you say you’re not seeing any OC difference, there’s peace of mind. And also I think there will be an actual difference with heavier memory OC. So sign me up for an active backplate.

Also I’d prefer a single terminal design for the sake of cleaner esthetics, and also easier GPU swap out/removal using quick disconnects.

Willing to pay in advance to reserve a block now.


----------



## Shawnb99

HyperMatrix said:


> Willing to pay in advance to reserve a block now.


Same. Take my money!!!!


----------



## iamjanco

HyperMatrix said:


> Willing to pay in advance to reserve a block now.
> 
> 
> 
> Shawnb99 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Same. Take my money!!!!
Click to expand...

I'll third that here!


----------



## tbrown7552

Optimus WC said:


> We're working on it now, but it's hard to say when we'll feel comfortable with performance, reliability, etc etc. We're also doing some new things with construction to potentially up the performance.
> 
> *ACTIVE BACKPLATE OPTIONS:*
> 
> *Single terminal (ek style)*
> *Tandem terminals (separate terminal for backplate, sticking up next to front block terminal, like binder tabs)*
> *Rear block side ports (like MP-5 add-on block)*
> *Rear block top ports (like a cpu block stuck on the backplate)*
> 
> Single terminal is cleanest, but separate ports allow for unique cooling and routing. Thoughts?


Single terminal is preferred. Im not a huge fan of how EK blocked off one side so you can only run the active backplate and block in serial. Im not sure if the top fitting terminal is reverseable or not on EK active backplates but theirs only works in serial. I think if the terminal block on top was straight through on the fitting holes like all other blocks then we can do parallel or serial like in the image below with the use of stop fittings.


----------



## switters1

I apologize for being lazy and not looking back in this thread. @ Optimus WC, I'm doing a black and copper build. I was going to purchase the FTW3 block but I would like it in copper without the nickel. When are you going to allow the option for the copper block again? I just sent an email as well. I was hoping I could get a fairly fast answer on here as this proved faster for a response in the past than using email. Thanks a bunch!!


----------



## LiquidHaus

iamjanco said:


> I'll third that here!


+1



switters1 said:


> I apologize for being lazy and not looking back in this thread. @ Optimus WC, I'm doing a black and copper build. I was going to purchase the FTW3 block but I would like it in copper without the nickel. When are you going to allow the option for the copper block again? I just sent an email as well. I was hoping I could get a fairly fast answer on here as this proved faster for a response in the past than using email. Thanks a bunch!!


They're not offering them in copper anymore. Maybe you could find one second hand?


----------



## Section31

Ordered an Strix Block


----------



## Section31

switters1 said:


> I apologize for being lazy and not looking back in this thread. @ Optimus WC, I'm doing a black and copper build. I was going to purchase the FTW3 block but I would like it in copper without the nickel. When are you going to allow the option for the copper block again? I just sent an email as well. I was hoping I could get a fairly fast answer on here as this proved faster for a response in the past than using email. Thanks a bunch!!


Actually they had them in Blemish Block. I got one but managed to offload it to someone, It's brand new and not yet in use according to my last contact. I can send you the guy contact if you want.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Correct! In fact, it's a Fujipoly 3mm super high-end pad, it will conform and compress, even if it's chopped into a dozen pieces. I've done it  It molds back together just fine with absolutely zero performance loss. Save yourselves a few bucks, reuse that pad


I confirm the same


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Theres an giveaway for one now if you want one.


I’m good with what I’m running as far as GPUs and blocks go. If I went any direction other than where I am now it would be a pair of Strix 3090s. I just don’t have the energy to try and find them at MSRP and not paying scalpers pricing. Nearest Microcenter is an hour away so driving up to come back empty handed would just chap my a$$. They get them in but don’t announce when so it’s a matter of chance and every day people are waiting hours outside the door just to see if they can get lucky. Too much time and energy. When the Strix 2080Tis came out they were a bit thin too but at least I could order them online and then drive up to the store to pick them up. Got a good pair that clock nicely and pretty much unheard of sequential serial numbers. So yeah I’ll be sitting out the madness.


----------



## iamjanco

Optimus WC said:


> Correct! In fact, it's a Fujipoly 3mm super high-end pad, it will conform and compress


Mind sharing which pad you're using?



Spoiler: From their Current Catalog


----------



## Optimus WC

iamjanco said:


> Mind sharing which pad you're using?


Sure, it's actually on our website now  It's PG25a for the backplate, GR45a for the front. We also have the PG25a custom made for us by Fuji, they'll do a lot of customization, which is nice. We have samples of all the pads and these were the best performing, the others have drawbacks in our application. Higher wmk doesn't mean better performance, the right pad for the right usage means the best performance


----------



## iamjanco

Optimus WC said:


> Sure, it's actually on our website now  It's PG25a for the backplate, GR45a for the front. We also have the PG25a custom made for us by Fuji, they'll do a lot of customization, which is nice. We have samples of all the pads and these were the best performing, the others have drawbacks in our application. Higher wmk doesn't mean better performance, the right pad for the right usage means the best performance


Thanks 

Yeah, I realize compression comes into play and is one of the reasons XR-Um isn't used everywhere. That stuff is hard and can be crumbly if aged. Also, Fujipoly doesn't sell their products to individual consumers directly (you need to know someone who knows someone  ).


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Sure, it's actually on our website now  It's PG25a for the backplate, GR45a for the front. We also have the PG25a custom made for us by Fuji, they'll do a lot of customization, which is nice. We have samples of all the pads and these were the best performing, the others have drawbacks in our application. Higher wmk doesn't mean better performance, the right pad for the right usage means the best performance


Continue your innovation. We await your new products.


----------



## blitzraider

So apparently there's going to be a 3090 Kingpin Optimus block too. Thats really cool. Sadly, the gpu is pretty exclusive on top of current market conditions...


----------



## HyperMatrix

blitzraider said:


> So apparently there's going to be a 3090 Kingpin Optimus block too. Thats really cool. Sadly, the gpu is pretty exclusive on top of current market conditions...


GPU prices have dropped a lot the last couple of weeks. Might be related to crypto drops or pending Ethereum changes, or simply the release of the 3070/3080 Tie Tie. There are 3090 Kingpin cards available on eBay for as low as $3300 USD with free shipping right now. Brand new/unopened. Keep in mind that means the seller will only get around $2850 USD from that sale on eBay. So someone is willing to sell a hard to obtain card that costs $2100 before taxes at retail for less than a $700~ markup. If you that someone like that down outside of eBay...you could get it cheaper. For example there's one on Kijiji priced at $3700 CAD that you could probably negotiate on as well. For a comparison, I had been offered $4500 USD for my used Kingpin roughly 2-3 months ago. Heck I sold an XC3 for $3700 CAD a couple weeks back. Not sure if the downward trend will continue but prices for 3090s are the lowest they've been in months now. Including for the Kingpin card if you really wanted one.


----------



## blitzraider

HyperMatrix said:


> GPU prices have dropped a lot the last couple of weeks. Might be related to crypto drops or pending Ethereum changes, or simply the release of the 3070/3080 Tie Tie. There are 3090 Kingpin cards available on eBay for as low as $3300 USD with free shipping right now. Brand new/unopened. Keep in mind that means the seller will only get around $2850 USD from that sale on eBay. So someone is willing to sell a hard to obtain card that costs $2100 before taxes at retail for less than a $700~ markup. If you that someone like that down outside of eBay...you could get it cheaper. For example there's one on Kijiji priced at $3700 CAD that you could probably negotiate on as well. For a comparison, I had been offered $4500 USD for my used Kingpin roughly 2-3 months ago. Heck I sold an XC3 for $3700 CAD a couple weeks back. Not sure if the downward trend will continue but prices for 3090s are the lowest they've been in months now. Including for the Kingpin card if you really wanted one.


Oh some good late night news. Thanks for letting me know! I'll be on the lookout more on Kijiji then.

I just realized that the new cooler is a 360 (the 2080ti was a 280). I might not even have space in my case.


----------



## Section31

blitzraider said:


> Oh some good late night news. Thanks for letting me know! I'll be on the lookout more on Kijiji then.
> 
> I just realized that the new cooler is a 360 (the 2080ti was a 280). I might not even have space in my case.


By time you find Optimus block will be out. Commit to it if thats GPU you want. This round is if watercooling and like x brand, stick with what they support. Not easiest GPU to get ahold of.

Just plan ahead if optimus you got 4-6 weeks production time.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> GPU prices have dropped a lot the last couple of weeks. Might be related to crypto drops or pending Ethereum changes, or simply the release of the 3070/3080 Tie Tie. There are 3090 Kingpin cards available on eBay for as low as $3300 USD with free shipping right now. Brand new/unopened. Keep in mind that means the seller will only get around $2850 USD from that sale on eBay. So someone is willing to sell a hard to obtain card that costs $2100 before taxes at retail for less than a $700~ markup. If you that someone like that down outside of eBay...you could get it cheaper. For example there's one on Kijiji priced at $3700 CAD that you could probably negotiate on as well. For a comparison, I had been offered $4500 USD for my used Kingpin roughly 2-3 months ago. Heck I sold an XC3 for $3700 CAD a couple weeks back. Not sure if the downward trend will continue but prices for 3090s are the lowest they've been in months now. Including for the Kingpin card if you really wanted one.


Prices are going downward from what i can tell. Only time our hobby makes money.


----------



## CantingSoup

@Optimus WC Are there any plans for AMD gpu blocks?


----------



## Section31

CantingSoup said:


> @Optimus WC Are there any plans for AMD gpu blocks?


They have reference on road map but timeline uncertain


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Finally managed to get a 2200mhz capable card in the form of a strix. Ordered the optimus block last night. This will replace my below average ftw3. If it does turn out that this card is as strong as I think I won't need my kingpin anymore either.


----------



## UdoG

@Optimus WC 
Which temp can we expect with the new Strix block - like with the FTW3 block?


----------



## acoustic

Edge0fsanity said:


> Finally managed to get a 2200mhz capable card in the form of a strix. Ordered the optimus block last night. This will replace my below average ftw3. If it does turn out that this card is as strong as I think I won't need my kingpin anymore either.


If you're not trying to scalp the Kingpin, I might be interested in it. Mediocre clocker?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

acoustic said:


> If you're not trying to scalp the Kingpin, I might be interested in it. Mediocre clocker?


I haven't decided what I'll do with it yet but yeah, average clocker. I got 15k PR out of it at ambient temps, no tricks to drop temps. Needed a lot of classy tool tweaking to get there. Tops out at 2160mhz in that run, anything higher was unstable with lower scores. Was badly limited by heat and power on 520w bios.


----------



## Section31

Will say Strix PCB done better than FTW3. Easier to remove too.


----------



## acoustic

If you were buying a case right now for a custom loop, max $400, what case would you buy?

Strix PCB looks HOT btw @Section31


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> If you were buying a case right now for a custom loop, max $400, what case would you buy?
> 
> Strix PCB looks HOT btw @Section31


Wait out for lianli v3000+


----------



## Shawnb99

I can’t wait to get my KPE under water. My water temps are reading about 0.1 under ambient if you can believe it. Fans are around 300 rpm. Must a sensor accuracy issue as no temp sensor reads the same. Stilll am running at ambient so very pleased so far


----------



## criskoe

Wow This is pretty cool. Too bad I dont have a aqua computer res and dont really need to buy one right now.... Any of you guys gunna try this thing?


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Wow This is pretty cool. Too bad I dont have a aqua computer res and dont really need to buy one right now.... Any of you guys gunna try this thing?


There will be. Usual Suspects


----------



## Shawnb99

criskoe said:


> Wow This is pretty cool. Too bad I dont have a aqua computer res and dont really need to buy one right now.... Any of you guys gunna try this thing?


Yep am ordering two first chance I get. Though I likely have too much head pressure for the ani-leak feature to work but still should work for leak detection.
From the reviews it doesn’t sound like the anti-leak will work with dual pumps


----------



## acoustic

What the hell .. that thing looks sick. I just ordered a damn Heatkiller pump/res though LOL.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> What the hell .. that thing looks sick. I just ordered a damn Heatkiller pump/res though LOL.





Shawnb99 said:


> Yep am ordering two first chance I get. Though I likely have too much head pressure for the ani-leak feature to work but still should work for leak detection.
> From the reviews it doesn’t sound like the anti-leak will work with dual pumps


I'm interested but i also have one heatkiller res and one ultitube and am interested in Optimus Glass Reservoir. That and my loop setup means i need to redo the loop again (I use the multitop).


----------



## Section31

Also typical of aquacomputer to drop new product to suprise us. Man, that BP Block purchase kind of hurts on the wallet knowing by time I get my last parts (heatkiller rads) in 2-3weeks, I could have saved the funds and bought other watercooling stuff.


----------



## LiquidHaus

acoustic said:


> If you were buying a case right now for a custom loop, max $400, what case would you buy?


Yuel Beast Atlas II.

It's a beast.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Yuel Beast Atlas II.
> 
> It's a beast.


Nice. Will Keep track of this company.


----------



## acoustic

LiquidHaus said:


> Yuel Beast Atlas II.
> 
> It's a beast.


That's a beast, but unfortunately can't go open. I'd be cleaning dust out every two days, lol.


----------



## Mroberts95

Anybody want to trade a 3090 Strix for my 3090 KP lol?


----------



## acoustic

I'll trade you my 3080FTW3 + lots of cash for that 3090 KP lol


----------



## Mroberts95

acoustic said:


> I'll trade you my 3080FTW3 + lots of cash for that 3090 KP lol


I just bought a strix bnib and plan on selling the 3090 kingpin hydrocopper


----------



## Mroberts95

Bought a BNIB strix and the Optimus Block. Time to find a time machine to next month and get the Kingpin sold lol.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> Yep am ordering two first chance I get. Though I likely have too much head pressure for the ani-leak feature to work but still should work for leak detection.
> From the reviews it doesn’t sound like the anti-leak will work with dual pumps


I have 2 Ultitube reservoirs as well. In reading how it works, I don't know if it's possible to run this system. They stated that you can't run this if you have any sort of pressure release valve system in your loop, which is what the tops of the Ultitube reservoirs are. So you replace one of the tops with this one. But your other top has the pressure release which causes the pressure sensor on the Leakshield to trip it. If you have 2 Leakshield's in the loop, then they're both applying negative pressure and causing pressure changes to which they keep having to adjust to.

So again from my understanding....you would need to run just 1 of these, and they would have to release some sort of top for the other ultitube that doesn't have the pressure release membrane. So it would be fully sealed. I mean technically you could MacGyver the top of the other res and get it fully sealed to make it work. Would definitely like more info on this because it's a 100% buy for me, as long as I can actually use it.

Edit: Not sure I understand this properly but it seems like it's saying the Leakshield wouldn't have sufficient power to create a vacuum in a system that has 2x D5 pumps running at full blast. Although question then becomes if the number of blocks/rads/etc you have in that build has dropped your flow rate low enough to allow the Leakshield to work?


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I have 2 Ultitube reservoirs as well. In reading how it works, I don't know if it's possible to run this system. They stated that you can't run this if you have any sort of pressure release valve system in your loop, which is what the tops of the Ultitube reservoirs are. So you replace one of the tops with this one. But your other top has the pressure release which causes the pressure sensor on the Leakshield to trip it. If you have 2 Leakshield's in the loop, then they're both applying negative pressure and causing pressure changes to which they keep having to adjust to.
> 
> So again from my understanding....you would need to run just 1 of these, and they would have to release some sort of top for the other ultitube that doesn't have the pressure release membrane. So it would be fully sealed. I mean technically you could MacGyver the top of the other res and get it fully sealed to make it work. Would definitely like more info on this because it's a 100% buy for me, as long as I can actually use it.


Yeah. I am using multitop with an heatkiller res on the Mo-Ra3 and debating before i invest such an sum into it as I have to redo my setup further (aka more torque fitting).


----------



## Mroberts95

Deleted


----------



## Mroberts95

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2514051
> View attachment 2514052
> 
> 
> Will say Strix PCB done better than FTW3. Easier to remove too.


Is it possible to measure that PCB Length?


----------



## Mroberts95

Optimus WC said:


> Correct! In fact, it's a Fujipoly 3mm super high-end pad, it will conform and compress, even if it's chopped into a dozen pieces. I've done it  It molds back together just fine with absolutely zero performance loss. Save yourselves a few bucks, reuse that pad



Does the Block for the Strix go just to the end of the block? 

If so are the dimensions listed somewhere? trying to measure if I need to change some things in my case.

Thanks!


----------



## Section31

Mroberts95 said:


> Does the Block for the Strix go just to the end of the block?
> 
> If so are the dimensions listed somewhere? trying to measure if I need to change some things in my case.
> 
> Thanks!


Will do my best for you when i get some free time.


----------



## Mroberts95

Section31 said:


> Will do my best for you when i get some free time.


Looks like the block length is 287MM which I bet is the PCB length. as I dont think Optimus cuts it short.


----------



## LiquidHaus

HyperMatrix said:


> Edit: Not sure I understand this properly but it seems like it's saying the Leakshield wouldn't have sufficient power to create a vacuum in a system that has 2x D5 pumps running at full blast. Although question then becomes if the number of blocks/rads/etc you have in that build has dropped your flow rate low enough to allow the Leakshield to work?


I hear what you're saying, however flow rate and loop pressure are two different variables. You'd have to run a mini PSI gauge for each dual pump loop you'd setup to figure the overall pressure the loop is under during full load. Then it's just a simple matter of figuring if a Leakshield system could handle it or not. Kinda disappointing that their system can't even handle two pumps. I'm surer 80% of their main customer base is running multiple pumps too. They just dumped a ton of prospective buyers with that limitation.


----------



## HyperMatrix

LiquidHaus said:


> I hear what you're saying, however flow rate and loop pressure are two different variables. You'd have to run a mini PSI gauge for each dual pump loop you'd setup to figure the overall pressure the loop is under during full load. Then it's just a simple matter of figuring if a Leakshield system could handle it or not. Kinda disappointing that their system can't even handle two pumps. I'm surer 80% of their main customer base is running multiple pumps too. They just dumped a ton of prospective buyers with that limitation.


I don’t know enough about physics to know how much if any drop there would be in pressure with a constriction based drop in flow rate. I understand there would be more pressure in the area before the area of largest constriction, but as the following area now has a lower rate of water being pushed into it, would there not be less pressure in the proceeding section? Again not an expert on it and I’m not saying flow rate and pressure are the same or that there would be any linearity between them. If anyone can speak to this from experience, I think it’d be beneficial reading for many.

As for dual pump/reservoir support, I have to say I have limited hope because I saw their Ultitube+D5 Next pump has a virtual flow rate calculation system that also doesn’t work in a dual pump/res system. Definitely unfortunate. If it works, I’d be interested in picking up some Aquaero units as well and leave the entire water/air management to them. But alas...with the current system the only way they could pull it off may be to do a much more powerful single pump unit. Either way...they had me really excited for a few hours today.


----------



## Section31

Mroberts95 said:


> Looks like the block length is 287MM which I bet is the PCB length. as I dont think Optimus cuts it short.


Calculations lineup to it.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah reading up on the Leakshield while it sounds nice for single pump systems. For the rest of us it looks to be useless. Not sure if we would even be able to use the leak monitor part of it. Nice idea in principal but not very practical for us


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah reading up on the Leakshield while it sounds nice for single pump systems. For the rest of us it looks to be useless. Not sure if we would even be able to use the leak monitor part of it. Nice idea in principal but not very practical for us


Got a response form Aquacomputer:










This is the link to the basic top for the Ultitube which you’d need to install on one of them as I hypothesized earlier: Lid for ULTITUBE reservoirs


----------



## Shawnb99

3k RPM is about 35%. 5 pumps at 25% gives me 0.8GPM, no way could I only run two at that speed and have decent flow. It's a nice idea but won't work for me.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> 3k RPM is about 35%. 5 pumps at 25% gives me 0.8GPM, no way could I only run two at that speed and have decent flow. It's a nice idea but won't work for me.


Yup. Only way I could see it working is if you could have it only enable the leak shield under certain conditions. I often leave my computer on for remote access/light work when I’m not there and in those situations can have fan rpm and pump rpm drop to lower levels. It wouldn’t be terrible to know that if a leak were to develop, the system could detect it, minimize/stop leaks, and shutdown if necessary.


----------



## Shawnb99

HyperMatrix said:


> Yup. Only way I could see it working is if you could have it only enable the leak shield under certain conditions. I often leave my computer on for remote access/light work when I’m not there and in those situations can have fan rpm and pump rpm drop to lower levels. It wouldn’t be terrible to know that if a leak were to develop, the system could detect it, minimize/stop leaks, and shutdown if necessary.


From my understanding the only feature that won’t work is stopping the leak. Should still be able to detect and shut down if there’s a leak. Least that’s how I understand it.


----------



## newls1

should the intel foundation block be perfectly flat on its base or bowed slightly? the base of my foundation is NOT flat... if i hold the side of a piece of paper to its base I see light emmiting from the sides and center is flat. Should I lightly lap the block and cpu (10900k)?


----------



## acoustic

I believe they made a Signature V2 special run that was flat. If you’re using an IHS, and not running direct-die, you should be fine,


----------



## Section31

So i got my hands on Heatkiller XC3 Blocks (for my friends) and Optimus actually looks the best when you see them in person. Also the optimus backplate is equivalent of ekwb thick backplate.


----------



## Optimus WC

newls1 said:


> should the intel foundation block be perfectly flat on its base or bowed slightly? the base of my foundation is NOT flat... if i hold the side of a piece of paper to its base I see light emmiting from the sides and center is flat. Should I lightly lap the block and cpu (10900k)?


This is intentional -- the bow in the cold plate is there to conform to the IHS of the CPU, which is not flat. 

You should definitely NOT lap the cpu block or the cpu itself, it will lower performance and cause other issues. 

Our coldplates are super smooth from machining, so the microscopic contact area is the best once the pressure is applied between the block and the cpu. If that makes sense


----------



## Optimus WC

Strix stuff:

Strix GPU performance is the same, if not sliiiighty better die temp, than the ftw3. Our testing is very accurate, so chances are this won't be noticeable in a typical system. So let's just say 8c die-to-water delta for OCed cards, 10c if you go crazy w/ 1000w bios etc. FTW3 ICX temp numbers are also off, like 1-2c lower than they should be
Strix block size is exactly the same as the PCB, no overhangs. 

LEAK VACUUM: Very cool technology, great to see them innovating. We talked it over at the office but kept coming back to our motto of just making parts that don't leak  We've only ever had leaks in the beginning, like forgetting to put in an o-ring or something. Never had a leak after a system was built. I think bad quality parts that fail quickly give the biz a bad reputation. Really, leak vacs and detectors shouldn't ever be a thing. 



Section31 said:


> So i got my hands on Heatkiller XC3 Blocks (for my friends) and Optimus actually looks the best when you see them in person. Also the optimus backplate is equivalent of ekwb thick backplate.


Glad ya like the looks!. Any explanation on that copper vram bit? And what thick EK backplate are you referring to? Didn't think anyone had made one as chonky as ours


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Strix stuff:
> 
> Strix GPU performance is the same, if not sliiiighty better die temp, than the ftw3. Our testing is very accurate, so chances are this won't be noticeable in a typical system. So let's just say 8c die-to-water delta for OCed cards, 10c if you go crazy w/ 1000w bios etc. FTW3 ICX temp numbers are also off, like 1-2c lower than they should be
> Strix block size is exactly the same as the PCB, no overhangs.
> 
> LEAK VACUUM: Very cool technology, great to see them innovating. We talked it over at the office but kept coming back to our motto of just making parts that don't leak  We've only ever had leaks in the beginning, like forgetting to put in an o-ring or something. Never had a leak after a system was built. I think bad quality parts that fail quickly give the biz a bad reputation. Really, leak vacs and detectors shouldn't ever be a thing.
> 
> 
> 
> Glad ya like the looks!. Any explanation on that copper vram bit? And what thick EK backplate are you referring to? Didn't think anyone had made one as chonky as ours


I think it was the ekwb active backplate but don't exactly remember from where exactly. Keep on the good work. Keep us informed on your other projects ongoing. You keep us involved in this hobby (otherwise no reason to change stuff).


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> I think it was the ekwb active backplate but don't exactly remember from where exactly. Keep on the good work. Keep us informed on your other projects ongoing. You keep us involved in this hobby (otherwise no reason to change stuff).


Ah, gotcha  And we have a lot of fun stuff in the works, can't wait to show it off!


----------



## Mroberts95

Ordered the other day for the strix, excited to get the block as you guys used my 3090 for tje ftw3 block 

got a bnib strix coming as I like asus better anyways, hopefully mid to end July we shall see her in action.


----------



## CluckyTaco

Question @Optimus WC . I plan to direct die my 11900k in the future. I currently have the intel foundation block. Will I need to change the coldplate or the block itself if I were to go that route?

Edit: I currently have the Pro-XE Nickel version on an Acrylic+black aluminium top if that helps


----------



## agentdark45

LiquidHaus said:


> Yuel Beast Atlas II.
> 
> It's a beast.


Gotdamn that's a nice case!

If Optimus are ever doing a case in the future, let me chip in with my 2 cents for my dream case based loosely on the above:


Extend the case in the horizontal and vertical axis - I want to be able to cram 4x360 (2 on top, 2 on the bottom) + 3x480 (2 at the front, 1 on the side) 60mm radiators with push-pull fans into a case.
Thick tempered glass side panel.
Thick aluminium everywhere (like the Phanteks elite) - zero flex in any panel.
Good dust filters on all intakes.
Lots of space in the rear compartment for extra HDD's, SSD's, RGB controllers and cable management.
Support for XL-ATX motherboards with enough room at the bottom for proper use of the 4th PCIE slot with 2-slot width GPU's (+water cooling fittings).
Easily removeable (and non-flimsy) mounting rails for radiators.
Standardised/ample spacing for radiators so no impossible/super tight connections needed in a maxed out configuration.

You guys can easily be the next CaseLabs (minus the bankruptcy lol).


----------



## criskoe

CluckyTaco said:


> Question @Optimus WC . I plan to direct die my 11900k in the future. I currently have the intel foundation block. Will I need to change the coldplate or the block itself if I were to go that route?
> 
> Edit: I currently have the Pro-XE Nickel version on an Acrylic+black aluminium top if that helps


@Optimus WC

Id love to know this as well..

Right now I have a delided 10900k with a Flat copper upgraded IHS under a EK magnitude with a flat coldplate. But I got this foundation block sitting here to swap in once I finally get some time to do so.. My plan was to direct die with this foundation cause it can clear the caps around my motherboard socket unlike the magnitude. The Magnitude frame is extra chonky and touches the caps so it was a no go for direct die. Found out the hard way and had to revert back to using a IHS. Is this actually not a good idea with the foundation? Should I remove the inner oring to make the block flatter? I remember somewhere buried in this thread you might of said that.... Could be wrong.. Please clarify


----------



## Optimus WC

You're good to go for cooling direct die, our blocks have that center bowed portion that will clear the die frames to make contact with the bare die. 

For delidded, that's a diff story -- the replaced IHS is a different profile than the original IHS, so it's really hard to say how the contact will perform with our block. Best is to mount the block with paste, tighten everything, take it off as cleanly as possible then check the paste spread. If it's perfect, you got good contact  Removing center o-rings will make slight bow adjustments. At that level, contact area can play a large part of performance gains or differences between blocks.

Also, doing multiple paste or lm applications is needed to find the sweet spot of your PC, if you're going to get extreme about it  In our very accurate testing system, we can see large gains between seemingly identical pastes or spreads. Of course, by "large gains" we mean a C or two, and a couple % higher in benchmarking  But it's real world results if you're into that extreme stuff


----------



## criskoe

Optimus WC said:


> You're good to go for cooling direct die, our blocks have that center bowed portion that will clear the die frames to make contact with the bare die.
> 
> For delidded, that's a diff story -- the replaced IHS is a different profile than the original IHS, so it's really hard to say how the contact will perform with our block. Best is to mount the block with paste, tighten everything, take it off as cleanly as possible then check the paste spread. If it's perfect, you got good contact  Removing center o-rings will make slight bow adjustments. At that level, contact area can play a large part of performance gains or differences between blocks.
> 
> Also, doing multiple paste or lm applications is needed to find the sweet spot of your PC, if you're going to get extreme about it  In our very accurate testing system, we can see large gains between seemingly identical pastes or spreads. Of course, by "large gains" we mean a C or two, and a couple % higher in benchmarking  But it's real world results if you're into that extreme stuff


Cool thanks for the reply. Good to know. I for sure will just be going direct die with the foundation then and removing this upgraded copper IHS. The Magnitude was really the only thing forcing me to use this IHS and not allowing direct die on this MB. 

Excited to get that last bit of thermal performance....


----------



## Shawnb99

agentdark45 said:


> Gotdamn that's a nice case!
> 
> If Optimus are ever doing a case in the future, let me chip in with my 2 cents for my dream case based loosely on the above:
> 
> 
> Extend the case in the horizontal and vertical axis - I want to be able to cram 4x360 (2 on top, 2 on the bottom) + 3x480 (2 at the front, 1 on the side) 60mm radiators with push-pull fans into a case.
> Thick tempered glass side panel.
> Thick aluminium everywhere (like the Phanteks elite) - zero flex in any panel.
> Good dust filters on all intakes.
> Lots of space in the rear compartment for extra HDD's, SSD's, RGB controllers and cable management.
> Support for XL-ATX motherboards with enough room at the bottom for proper use of the 4th PCIE slot with 2-slot width GPU's (+water cooling fittings).
> Easily removeable (and non-flimsy) mounting rails for radiators.
> Standardised/ample spacing for radiators so no impossible/super tight connections needed in a maxed out configuration.
> 
> You guys can easily be the next CaseLabs (minus the bankruptcy lol).


I want a TX10 clone then. No need for the dustfilters as I can get them fro DEMCiflex. Just give me a monster that big with a pedestal that I can cram 10+ radiators in


----------



## Recipe7

@Optimus WC 

I was able to get into the EVGA Elite queue for the KP HC. Is there an ETA for the KP block?


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> Yuel Beast Atlas II.
> 
> It's a beast.


ooooooo, i like that atlas II, nice  reminds me of the spectre a tiny bit and i just signed up for notifications about it over on yuelbeast's website.

you helping them with finalizing the design and/or putting together a showpiece for them?

also noted their metalworking source and bookmarked them. adm customs is only 265 miles from me and i might have them do the copper plates i've got planned for the KPE 3090 if optimus looks like they'll need a lot more time (that's a friendly hint, @Optimus WC  ).


----------



## acoustic

I know we’re supposed to hate Thermaltake, but hot damn, the W100 cases with their expandable design with the P100 are pretty sick. I’m impressed. I’d like to get my hands on one and see the build quality, but man these are the only cases that seem to push that CaseLabs mindset of expandability with massive room for radiators.


----------



## dwolvin

I agree they are problematic, and I probably wouldn't buy most of their stuff, but I love my P3 case. Lots of room to customize in a tiny (full size) case.


----------



## Shawnb99

I wouldn’t take a Thermalfake case if it was free.


----------



## acoustic

Shawnb99 said:


> I wouldn’t take a Thermalfake case if it was free.


You have engrained the hate for EK and Thermaltake in me LOL


----------



## Kana Chan

Are you guys making radiators at some point? Will they include a rubber gasket like pic? 1x120x3 / 1x120x4 / 1x120x9 / 1x140x3 / 1x140x4 / 1x140x9


----------



## Optimus WC

Kana Chan said:


> Are you guys making radiators at some point? Will they include a rubber gasket like pic? 1x120x3 / 1x120x4 / 1x120x9 / 1x140x3 / 1x140x4 / 1x140x9
> View attachment 2514291


Yes, we will make rads. But radiators are a little ways out, we'll make sure it's dialed in for best performance, like always


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, we will make rads. But radiators are a little ways out, we'll make sure it's dialed in for best performance, like always


Can they include like a 5-6mm shroud on each side?
Multiple ports as well please

Also it’s a must to include 30mm and 33mm screws. Specially the 33mm ones as those need to be custom made.
30mm is great to mount a fan to the radiators but you need longer to mount to a case.


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> Can they include like a 5-6mm shroud on each side?
> Multiple ports as well please


Definitely, lots of flexibility.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Definitely, lots of flexibility.


And the screw sizes. Really just sell 33mm screws now and you’ll have lots of buyers. I could use at least 300 or so myself


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> And the screw sizes. Really just sell 33mm screws now and you’ll have lots of buyers. I could use at least 300 or so myself


33mm x what thread? And are they really that hard to get?


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> 33mm x what thread? And are they really that hard to get?


I’d like that size included with you radiators so whatever thread you’re going with. Though standard is normal M4 I think.
Yeah no where sells that size, it’s either 30mm or 35. Don’t think I’ve seen one hardware store that carries that length. Otherwise it ends up a few mm too long abs can puncture the radiator


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> I’d like that size included with you radiators so whatever thread you’re going with. Though standard is normal M4 I think.
> Yeah no where sells that size, it’s either 30mm or 35. Don’t think I’ve seen one hardware store that carries that length. Otherwise it ends up a few mm too long abs can puncture the radiator


Huh, interesting, it seems like the replacement packages from the rad manufacturers would work, though it is bad design that the tolerances are so tiny until one punctures the radiator or hits the stop. I think much of this also has to do with lack of consistent fan hole sizing and gaskets etc etc


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, M3 or M4 are the standards, I don't really care which one but please all the same. I like my computer case right now, but it uses 4 or 5 different screw sizes / types.

And long screws hitting tube instead of fin was a terrible design from the start, but I believe it's fallen by the wayside at last, or at least I have not seen it in the last handful of radiators from random manufacturers...


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, we will make rads. But radiators are a little ways out, we'll make sure it's dialed in for best performance, like always


Waiting for those. Performance with low flow resistance.


----------



## Optimus WC

tbh, we'll prob follow the apple model and make our own thread sizes for screws and screw holes that are incompatible with anything else and charge 10x per replacement screw. 

Really though we'll examine the entire way the mounting works and do whatever is standard and try to improve on it. The current fan/rad/maybe-gasket-in-between setup leaves a lot to be desired.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> bh, we'll prob follow the apple model and make our own thread sizes for screws and screw holes that are incompatible with anything else and charge 10x per replacement screw.


This is the way


----------



## iamjanco

Re. screw lengths, they don't have to be an issue; I cut them down all the time using a simple combination crimper/screw cutter geared toward whether they're unf or iso metric threaded. You can usually pick them up at your local hardware store and can certainly order them from a lot of online shops; even the cheap ones work fairly well.


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> Re. screw lengths, they don't have to be an issue; I cut them down all the time using a simple combination crimper/screw cutter geared toward whether they're unf or iso metric threaded. You can usually pick them up at your local hardware store and can certainly order them from a lot of online shops; even the cheap ones work fairly well.
> 
> View attachment 2514300


They have those?  Here I've been thinking I'd need a bandsaw or something so I've never bothered. Just use 2mm nuts instead.


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> They have those?  Here I've been thinking I'd need a bandsaw or something so I've never bothered. Just use 2mm nuts instead.


Not sure if you're being facetious or not  ; but yes, they've been around almost as long as I have (if not longer).


----------



## Mroberts95

Deleted


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> Not sure if you're being facetious or not  ; but yes, they've been around almost as long as I have (if not longer).


I literally didn't even think of them. I'm a bit stupid... sometimes


----------



## LiquidHaus

iamjanco said:


> ooooooo, i like that atlas II, nice  reminds me of the spectre a tiny bit and i just signed up for notifications about it over on yuelbeast's website.
> 
> you helping them with finalizing the design and/or putting together a showpiece for them?
> 
> also noted their metalworking source and bookmarked them. adm customs is only 265 miles from me and i might have them do the copper plates i've got planned for the KPE 3090 if optimus looks like they'll need a lot more time (that's a friendly hint, @Optimus WC  ).


Yeah I'm really enjoying the chassis! Yes, I've helped them quite a bit and we're pretty close now. I helped them out with the Atlas II design cues after getting some good time with the Atlas I. Currently working on rebuild my main rig into the Atlas II now, and it'll be quite the showpiece hopefully!

You had me at KPE copper plates! I have an MP5Works backplate cooler I still plan to utilize on my HC block (value on those seemed to tank a bit once the HC KPEs came out). It doesn't seem like Optimus is close at all on the KPE, otherwise we would have heard or seen something by now.




acoustic said:


> I know we’re supposed to hate Thermaltake, but hot damn, the W100 cases with their expandable design with the P100 are pretty sick. I’m impressed. I’d like to get my hands on one and see the build quality, but man these are the only cases that seem to push that CaseLabs mindset of expandability with massive room for radiators.


Back when I used to work at Xidax, I had the opportunity to snag a W100 before they officially released, and I honestly loved it. It was basically a Caselabs that I didn't feel bad about cutting it up to hell with a dremel lol, perfect case for modding without paying the Caselabs premium.

Here was the W100 build for reference:


----------



## acoustic

LiquidHaus said:


> Yeah I'm really enjoying the chassis! Yes, I've helped them quite a bit and we're pretty close now. I helped them out with the Atlas II design cues after getting some good time with the Atlas I. Currently working on rebuild my main rig into the Atlas II now, and it'll be quite the showpiece hopefully!
> 
> You had me at KPE copper plates! I have an MP5Works backplate cooler I still plan to utilize on my HC block (value on those seemed to tank a bit once the HC KPEs came out). It doesn't seem like Optimus is close at all on the KPE, otherwise we would have heard or seen something by now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back when I used to work at Xidax, I had the opportunity to snag a W100 before they officially released, and I honestly loved it. It was basically a Caselabs that I didn't feel bad about cutting it up to hell with a dremel lol, perfect case for modding without paying the Caselabs premium.
> 
> Here was the W100 build for reference:


Man, that looks great. The ability to add the pedestal (P100) is pretty sick as well.

Gorgeous build, as always! The creativity astounds me every time.


----------



## Optimus WC

LiquidHaus said:


> Yeah I'm really enjoying the chassis! Yes, I've helped them quite a bit and we're pretty close now. I helped them out with the Atlas II design cues after getting some good time with the Atlas I. Currently working on rebuild my main rig into the Atlas II now, and it'll be quite the showpiece hopefully!
> 
> You had me at KPE copper plates! I have an MP5Works backplate cooler I still plan to utilize on my HC block (value on those seemed to tank a bit once the HC KPEs came out). It doesn't seem like Optimus is close at all on the KPE, otherwise we would have heard or seen something by now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back when I used to work at Xidax, I had the opportunity to snag a W100 before they officially released, and I honestly loved it. It was basically a Caselabs that I didn't feel bad about cutting it up to hell with a dremel lol, perfect case for modding without paying the Caselabs premium.
> 
> Here was the W100 build for reference:


Damn gorgeous 

For KPE, it's our next block, and blocks are going to come faster now. The holdup with Strix wasn't design but production -- 100% making FTW blocks, not enough time to make Strix as well. We've upped production so we'll be able to do the next blocks faster. 

We're babysitting Strix production right now, testing blocks as they are made to make sure they all meet performance specs. Then we're up to finishing KP. 

KPE NOTES:

Offering our XL Heatsink bp first, then active later as soon as it's ready (drop-in replacement)
Full integrated active BP
Cutouts for nv link
Integrated oled 
KP QUESTIONS:

COPPER? Tons of requests for copper for KP. Does everyone want raw copper?
NICKEL? Does anyone want nickel? We can also do full copper mid, nickel cold plate for lm.
How many want pure clear acrylic on the front? Black? Something else?


----------



## Mroberts95

Optimus WC said:


> Damn gorgeous
> 
> For KPE, it's our next block, and blocks are going to come faster now. The holdup with Strix wasn't design but production -- 100% making FTW blocks, not enough time to make Strix as well. We've upped production so we'll be able to do the next blocks faster.
> 
> We're babysitting Strix production right now, testing blocks as they are made to make sure they all meet performance specs. Then we're up to finishing KP.
> 
> KPE NOTES:
> 
> Offering our XL Heatsink bp first, then active later as soon as it's ready (drop-in replacement)
> Full integrated active BP
> Cutouts for nv link
> Integrated oled
> KP QUESTIONS:
> 
> COPPER? Tons of requests for copper for KP. Does everyone want raw copper?
> NICKEL? Does anyone want nickel? We can also do full copper mid, nickel cold plate for lm.
> How many want pure clear acrylic on the front? Black? Something else?


I would prefer a Nickel block but if it means waiting longer for Kingpin then Ill take whatever I can get my hands on.
Pure acrylic is fine but if black does not take much longer that would be perfect with the Nickel platting.

This will be a day one for me as the current Kingpin block isnt amazing for the Hydro Copper.

Are we looking at another 2-3 months before the Kingpin is ready for order then another 4-6 weeks there after?
Just wondering about timeframes.


----------



## dwolvin

I'm honestly indifferent on the Nickel / Copper, but nickel is easier to match in a system. And I do like windows, to see bubbles and fluid.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> Damn gorgeous
> 
> For KPE, it's our next block, and blocks are going to come faster now. The holdup with Strix wasn't design but production -- 100% making FTW blocks, not enough time to make Strix as well. We've upped production so we'll be able to do the next blocks faster.
> 
> We're babysitting Strix production right now, testing blocks as they are made to make sure they all meet performance specs. Then we're up to finishing KP.
> 
> KPE NOTES:
> 
> Offering our XL Heatsink bp first, then active later as soon as it's ready (drop-in replacement)
> Full integrated active BP
> Cutouts for nv link
> Integrated oled
> KP QUESTIONS:
> 
> COPPER? Tons of requests for copper for KP. Does everyone want raw copper?
> NICKEL? Does anyone want nickel? We can also do full copper mid, nickel cold plate for lm.
> How many want pure clear acrylic on the front? Black? Something else?


I like Nickel but no particular preference as long as cold plate is nickel. Also acrylic looks pretty cheap Would prefer the black acetal stuff instead.


----------



## D-EJ915

Shawnb99 said:


> Can they include like a 5-6mm shroud on each side?
> Multiple ports as well please
> 
> Also it’s a must to include 30mm and 33mm screws. Specially the 33mm ones as those need to be custom made.
> 30mm is great to mount a fan to the radiators but you need longer to mount to a case.


If the things are not as wide as hwlabs it'd be nice since they tend to not fit in a lot of cases.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Optimus WC said:


> Damn gorgeous
> 
> For KPE, it's our next block, and blocks are going to come faster now. The holdup with Strix wasn't design but production -- 100% making FTW blocks, not enough time to make Strix as well. We've upped production so we'll be able to do the next blocks faster.
> 
> We're babysitting Strix production right now, testing blocks as they are made to make sure they all meet performance specs. Then we're up to finishing KP.
> 
> KPE NOTES:
> 
> Offering our XL Heatsink bp first, then active later as soon as it's ready (drop-in replacement)
> Full integrated active BP
> Cutouts for nv link
> Integrated oled
> KP QUESTIONS:
> 
> COPPER? Tons of requests for copper for KP. Does everyone want raw copper?
> NICKEL? Does anyone want nickel? We can also do full copper mid, nickel cold plate for lm.
> How many want pure clear acrylic on the front? Black? Something else?



Thank you sir!

Glad to hear the info on the KPE blocks.

I get why people want copper since it's always been the KPE thing, but nickel would be better for those who'd want to run LM which I'm sure would be more than a few people.

But I would also be SO down for an acetal top as well. I'm going full blacked out for the next build anyway so that could work out nicely.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> You have engrained the hate for EK and Thermaltake in me LOL





Optimus WC said:


> Damn gorgeous
> 
> For KPE, it's our next block, and blocks are going to come faster now. The holdup with Strix wasn't design but production -- 100% making FTW blocks, not enough time to make Strix as well. We've upped production so we'll be able to do the next blocks faster.
> 
> We're babysitting Strix production right now, testing blocks as they are made to make sure they all meet performance specs. Then we're up to finishing KP.
> 
> KPE NOTES:
> 
> Offering our XL Heatsink bp first, then active later as soon as it's ready (drop-in replacement)
> Full integrated active BP
> Cutouts for nv link
> Integrated oled
> KP QUESTIONS:
> 
> COPPER? Tons of requests for copper for KP. Does everyone want raw copper?
> NICKEL? Does anyone want nickel? We can also do full copper mid, nickel cold plate for lm.
> How many want pure clear acrylic on the front? Black? Something else?


Getting strix but I think black acrylic would look nice.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I like Nickel but no particular preference as long as cold plate is nickel. Also acrylic looks pretty cheap Would prefer the black acetal stuff instead.


Acrylic can look very nice. Parents had some custom made acrylic furniture and they could do two tone acrylic furniture and the stuff looked nice. But that's only if you have access and in there case, the contractor/reno had contacts with factories in China and one of the family members (it's an family business) goes to the factories to also inspect stuff. Even get them to make custom stuff for my parent's house here. Though it helps, when they have an well developed high speed train network.

I actually think an thin piece of black alumnium would look the best.


----------



## Section31

D-EJ915 said:


> If the things are not as wide as hwlabs it'd be nice since they tend to not fit in a lot of cases.


I would love an 30mm/50mm radiator with mutliple ports. That's what the heatkiller rads are missing. The key is still going to be toping the performance of slim/med leader (hwl gts and its oems) and top end (hwl gtx/gtr and ekwb high end xe series) with similar to lower resistance.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Man, that looks great. The ability to add the pedestal (P100) is pretty sick as well.
> 
> Gorgeous build, as always! The creativity astounds me every time.


My rads are finally coming. Looking at these builds make me want to keep my caselabs s8 and modernize even if its not the most economical.

Almost everything timed out correctly. Radiators coming in 1week, Dewire Fan solution is shipping so say 2weeks and then 2weeks later, hopefully the strix block. Another month of machine down but i still get to work on it. The GPU part is easy since its just plug and play into the system (can design the loop portion easily).


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> My rads are finally coming. Looking at these builds make me want to keep my caselabs s8 and modernize even if its not the most economical.
> 
> Almost everything timed out correctly. Radiators coming in 1week, Dewire Fan solution is shipping so say 2weeks and then 2weeks later, hopefully the strix block. Another month of machine down but i still get to work on it. The GPU part is easy since its just plug and play into the system (can design the loop portion easily).


Woo! I got into the queue for the 3090 KP. Hopefully procures a card in the next month.

My stuff shipped and left Frankfurt June12, but hasn't updated since or show it arriving anywhere.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Woo! I got into the queue for the 3090 KP. Hopefully procures a card in the next month.
> 
> My stuff shipped and left Frankfurt June12, but hasn't updated since or show it arriving anywhere.


Usually that stuff should arrive fast once it ships out of Germany. Doesn't take long too arrive into the US then board another plane/etc to your city.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Usually that stuff should arrive fast once it ships out of Germany. Doesn't take long too arrive into the US then board another plane/etc to your city.


Hopefully it sees movement tomorrow. It started June 9th, made it to Frankfurt at 10:30am Saturday, June12, and departed Frankfurt 4:15pm that day; Since then, it's had zero movement. Just shows "In Transit" from Frankfurt.


----------



## tbrown7552

Optimus WC said:


> Damn gorgeous
> 
> For KPE, it's our next block, and blocks are going to come faster now. The holdup with Strix wasn't design but production -- 100% making FTW blocks, not enough time to make Strix as well. We've upped production so we'll be able to do the next blocks faster.
> 
> We're babysitting Strix production right now, testing blocks as they are made to make sure they all meet performance specs. Then we're up to finishing KP.
> 
> KPE NOTES:
> 
> Offering our XL Heatsink bp first, then active later as soon as it's ready (drop-in replacement)
> Full integrated active BP
> Cutouts for nv link
> Integrated oled
> KP QUESTIONS:
> 
> COPPER? Tons of requests for copper for KP. Does everyone want raw copper?
> NICKEL? Does anyone want nickel? We can also do full copper mid, nickel cold plate for lm.
> How many want pure clear acrylic on the front? Black? Something else?


Nickel with clear front for me


----------



## Recipe7

Nickle and clear is my pic for KP as well


----------



## iamjanco

Nickel with clear front for me for the KPE 3090 would be my first choice as well, though it wouldn't stop me from buying something that got out the door quicker.


----------



## Shawnb99

Nickel and clear for me as well

How about one made of of pure silver and gold? 🤔


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> Yeah I'm really enjoying the chassis! Yes, I've helped them quite a bit and we're pretty close now. I helped them out with the Atlas II design cues after getting some good time with the Atlas I. Currently working on rebuild my main rig into the Atlas II now, and it'll be quite the showpiece hopefully!
> 
> *You had me at KPE copper plates! *I have an MP5Works backplate cooler I still plan to utilize on my HC block (value on those seemed to tank a bit once the HC KPEs came out). It doesn't seem like Optimus is close at all on the KPE, otherwise we would have heard or seen something by now.


FWIW, I've been keeping you in mind regarding them.

I'm actually now looking at having the plates milled (CNC) out of copper in such a way that I don't have to mess with shims. That way I could also work in multiple mounting points for blocks that could be added to the front as well (e.g., a few different options like mp5s, the bitspower P900 blocks, smaller blocks, etc.; while keeping in mind that I might want to still use a separate block for the gpu itself). I'll also be adding slotted ventilation to the plates that won't interfere with block mounting and screw holes that would allow you to add forced air as an additional option (similar to the fan on the hybrid KPE).

They might not end up looking as pretty as what Optimus is working on, but they should get the job done. That said, the work is somewhat more tedious given how exacting the tolerances have to be.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Optimus WC said:


> Damn gorgeous
> 
> For KPE, it's our next block, and blocks are going to come faster now. The holdup with Strix wasn't design but production -- 100% making FTW blocks, not enough time to make Strix as well. We've upped production so we'll be able to do the next blocks faster.
> 
> We're babysitting Strix production right now, testing blocks as they are made to make sure they all meet performance specs. Then we're up to finishing KP.
> 
> KPE NOTES:
> 
> Offering our XL Heatsink bp first, then active later as soon as it's ready (drop-in replacement)
> Full integrated active BP
> Cutouts for nv link
> Integrated oled
> KP QUESTIONS:
> 
> COPPER? Tons of requests for copper for KP. Does everyone want raw copper?
> NICKEL? Does anyone want nickel? We can also do full copper mid, nickel cold plate for lm.
> How many want pure clear acrylic on the front? Black? Something else?


For me I want full Nickel. A black/clear acrylic design similar to heatkiller and aquacomputer would be nice. If I had to choose between all black or clear I would go with clear.


----------



## Mroberts95

Now that I think about it, Nickel and clear to show off the PCB and see that lovely liquid flow in a Vertical mount.


----------



## Shawnb99

Can I get silver instead of copper? Have the block cost more then the card!


----------



## Kana Chan

Only the cold plate as silver or the whole thing? Does one need to supply the silver for them to make it?


----------



## Shawnb99

Really would only need the cold plate but having the whole thing in silver would look cooler I'd think. Then instead of acrylic make it out of gold. Now that would look sick.


----------



## acoustic

This man wants to spend $5000 on a card+block to replace it in two years lol

Shawn you're a wild man


----------



## tbrown7552

Shawnb99 said:


> Nickel and clear for me as well
> 
> How about one made of of pure silver and gold? 🤔


If gold plating was an option i would definitely go for that.


----------



## LiquidHaus

you guys are nuts lol


----------



## LiquidHaus

iamjanco said:


> FWIW, I've been keeping you in mind regarding them.
> 
> I'm actually now looking at having the plates milled (CNC) out of copper in such a way that I don't have to mess with shims. That way I could also work in multiple mounting points for blocks that could be added to the front as well (e.g., a few different options like mp5s, the bitspower P900 blocks, smaller blocks, etc.; while keeping in mind that I might want to still use a separate block for the gpu itself). I'll also be adding slotted ventilation to the plates that won't interfere with block mounting and screw holes that would allow you to add forced air as an additional option (similar to the fan on the hybrid KPE).
> 
> They might not end up looking as pretty as what Optimus is working on, but they should get the job done. That said, the work is somewhat more tedious given how exacting the tolerances have to be.


I appreciate you keeping me in mind! I hear ya on the shim work. I respect the process in whichever way you want to go, but if it were me, I would just snag shims from McMaster and plan accordingly with the copper plate in regards to thermal pad and shim thicknesses.


----------



## Optimus WC

acoustic said:


> This man wants to spend $5000 on a card+block to replace it in two years lol
> 
> Shawn you're a wild man


In these uncertain times, Optimus Solid Silver Waterblocks are one of the safest investments available.


----------



## acoustic

Optimus WC said:


> In these uncertain times, Optimus Solid Silver Waterblocks are one of the safest investments available.


Lol!


----------



## Mroberts95

Will kingpin blocks be a few weeks wait after order? Or will they ship out within a week or two 


Optimus WC said:


> In these uncertain times, Optimus Solid Silver Waterblocks are one of the safest investments available.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> you guys are nuts lol


They are. Holding the equivalent of Investment Grade Gold/Silver Bar lol. Not an easy thing to get ahold of.


----------



## Optimus WC

Mroberts95 said:


> Will kingpin blocks be a few weeks wait after order? Or will they ship out within a week or two


Our current plan is to allow orders once the blocks are being manufactured. That also helps us know how many to make in what quantities so we can balance with other product.


----------



## Endgame124

A silver cold plate would be fantastic both for a KPE and a threadripper block. I probably wouldn’t spring for silver on the GPU block myself, but I know some would. I would strongly consider a silver block for a Zen 4 threadripper, assuming that the socket and block would work for at least 1 upgrade to Zen 5.


----------



## Mroberts95

Sounds good! I’m excited to see what temps happen, right now I sit at about 12-14c delta between water and gpu temps, and 10c or so between water and ambient temps that’s at 500-520w or so.
Are you guys thinking 8-10c even with 500 or 1000w bios?

I like the block now but want something better that will last long term and is not a pain in the rear to take apart and clean etc when needed.


----------



## Optimus WC

Endgame124 said:


> A silver cold plate would be fantastic both for a KPE and a threadripper block. I probably wouldn’t spring for silver on the GPU block myself, but I know some would. I would strongly consider a silver block for a Zen 4 threadripper, assuming that the socket and block would work for at least 1 upgrade to Zen 5.


We like silver, we've actually made cold plates out of the good stuff before for fun  The biggest issue with adding silver to a loop is galvanic corrosion. Already, loops have problems with radiators, bad components, etc and that's with coolants that have tons of corrosion inhibitors. Silver adds another factor. And it'd be a LOT of silver  

That said, we'll probably do an entire silver system: blocks, fittings, radiator, etc etc. Starting price: $20k. 



Mroberts95 said:


> Sounds good! I’m excited to see what temps happen, right now I sit at about 12-14c delta between water and gpu temps, and 10c or so between water and ambient temps that’s at 500-520w or so.
> Are you guys thinking 8-10c even with 500 or 1000w bios?
> 
> I like the block now but want something better that will last long term and is not a pain in the rear to take apart and clean etc when needed.


Cool, what block are you using for those temps? And yes 8-10c with the big boy bios is how we test. And what others are reporting with ftw3 blocks  The KP should just be a lot more stable at the higher numbers, regardless of temps. So we'll see how high people can get them with good cooling


----------



## Mroberts95

I bought the Kingpin Hydro Copper card so it’s whatever block that EVGA makes or has a 3rd party make for their card, it’s okay but I can’t wait to throw an Absolute block on there.

I am not sure if any other water block companies have made a kingpin block, I assume not as I was unable to find anything


----------



## Optimus WC

Mroberts95 said:


> I bought the Kingpin Hydro Copper card so it’s whatever block that EVGA makes or has a 3rd party make for their card, it’s okay but I can’t wait to throw an Absolute block on there.
> 
> I am not sure if any other water block companies have made a kingpin block, I assume not as I was unable to find anything


Yeah those blocks aren't really optimized for extreme performance. Last gen some chinese company made a KP block, but it was trash


----------



## Mroberts95

When there is no correct way for flow I assumed as much  I’ll be a day one order for the KP block


----------



## Endgame124

Optimus WC said:


> We like silver, we've actually made cold plates out of the good stuff before for fun  The biggest issue with adding silver to a loop is galvanic corrosion. Already, loops have problems with radiators, bad components, etc and that's with coolants that have tons of corrosion inhibitors. Silver adds another factor. And it'd be a LOT of silver
> 
> That said, we'll probably do an entire silver system: blocks, fittings, radiator, etc etc. Starting price: $20k.


lol, 20k would be well out of my price range… at least up front. I could see buying a fitting here, a block there, though, and ending with a high value system.

As for corrosion, I’ve been using kill coils forever, and I’ve had my original black ice extreme rads in use one way or another for 18 years now. I would think if silver was a problem, those old rads would be Swiss cheese at this point


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> That said, we'll probably do an entire silver system: blocks, fittings, radiator, etc etc. Starting price: $20k.



When AMC hits the moon I'm going to take you up on that.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> When AMC hits the moon I'm going to take you up on that.


Comeone federal reserve buy some more printing press machines and do more quantitive easings, makes this dream happen for shawnb99 lol


----------



## Keith Myers

Optimus WC said:


> We like silver, we've actually made cold plates out of the good stuff before for fun  The biggest issue with adding silver to a loop is galvanic corrosion. Already, loops have problems with radiators, bad components, etc and that's with coolants that have tons of corrosion inhibitors. Silver adds another factor. And it'd be a LOT of silver
> 
> That said, we'll probably do an entire silver system: blocks, fittings, radiator, etc etc. Starting price: $20k.
> 
> 
> 
> Cool, what block are you using for those temps? And yes 8-10c with the big boy bios is how we test. And what others are reporting with ftw3 blocks  The KP should just be a lot more stable at the higher numbers, regardless of temps. So we'll see how high people can get them with good cooling


I've been running the Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos Next .925 Sterling Silver/PVD block for over a year on a Ryzen 3950X and have had no issues with corrosion at all. Running with the offset bracket.


----------



## Optimus WC

We've tested silver at 99.9 aka the purest stuff with the highest performance. Sterling .925 doesn't have the gains as the pure stuff. 

For raw material costs, raw silver is $43 to ever $1 of copper. So it ain't cheap.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> We've tested silver at 99.9 aka the purest stuff with the highest performance. Sterling .925 doesn't have the gains as the pure stuff.
> 
> For raw material costs, raw silver is $43 to ever $1 of copper. So it ain't cheap.


Count me in for alderlake lga1700 block. Thanks the hk government for allowing its overseas citizens take advantage of this









Hong Kong’s first HK$5,000 vouchers to be delivered from August 1


The online application period is set to run from July 4 to August 14, requiring participants to register using their Hong Kong identity cards or the government’s iAM Smart app.




www.scmp.com


----------



## iamjanco

ooooooooo, more free money, nice. printed by fiat (they make cars too)?

before anyone gets excited, 5,000.00 Hong Kong Dollars = 644.04214 US Dollars currently. still, almost enough for a nice, new, shiny Optimus gpu block and active backplate


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> ooooooooo, more free money, nice. printed by fiat (they make cars too)?
> 
> before anyone gets excited, 5,000.00 Hong Kong Dollars = 644.04214 US Dollars currently. still, almost enough for a nice, new, shiny Optimus gpu block and active backplate


Only about 1million people overseas qualify for such situations. Very small group largely based in US, UK and Canada

Have to be one of the following: born there, lived there 7years or be born before 1997 from HK parent and if not born in HK and parents are born in HK then must went back before 1997. Almost impossible set of circumstances.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> For raw material costs, raw silver is $43 to ever $1 of copper. So it ain't cheap.


And silver keeps going up.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> And silver keeps going up.


Silver/Gold conspiracy are hot news.


----------



## Mroberts95

3090 Strix OC showed up. However I do not think I want to wait for an Optimus Block so off she goes to be sold and wait for a KP Block.

I would pay Optimus for a front of the line spot for the Strix  Just kidding.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mroberts95 said:


> I would pay Optimus for a front of the line spot


I called dibs already 😛


----------



## Mroberts95

Shawnb99 said:


> I called dibs already 😛


I am waiting for the KP block. I already have a KP Hydro copper so no point in buying a block for the strix. 3090 KP probably performs better anywho.


----------



## Keith Myers

Optimus WC said:


> We've tested silver at 99.9 aka the purest stuff with the highest performance. Sterling .925 doesn't have the gains as the pure stuff.
> 
> For raw material costs, raw silver is $43 to ever $1 of copper. So it ain't cheap.


Pure silver is too soft for the application I think. Would be very difficult to machine.


----------



## Section31

Mroberts95 said:


> 3090 Strix OC showed up. However I do not think I want to wait for an Optimus Block so off she goes to be sold and wait for a KP Block.
> 
> I would pay Optimus for a front of the line spot for the Strix  Just kidding.


I know someone who actually want to buy one if you sell


----------



## Shawnb99

Keith Myers said:


> Pure silver is too soft for the application I think. Would be very difficult to machine.


I had a solid silver CPU block in 2001 so I think it's possible now.


----------



## Kana Chan

There was a review a few years ago where an AC .925 silver variant was about 2C lower than the copper one with a low TDP processor I believe? .999 Sig V2 should be great with 500W+ 10980XE?


----------



## Recipe7

@Optimus WC 

Any ETA on the Satin Black XL Heatsink for FTW3?


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> We've tested silver at 99.9 aka the purest stuff with the highest performance. Sterling .925 doesn't have the gains as the pure stuff.
> 
> For raw material costs, raw silver is $43 to ever $1 of copper. So it ain't cheap.


Keep up the good work. I was just speaking with my friend that is using your Sig V2 Block and Fittings and your GPU blocks are his preferred choice whenever he upgrades GPU. Couple of my friends and contacts very interested in your glass reservoir (that can be mounted on fans).


----------



## Section31

Mroberts95 said:


> I am waiting for the KP block. I already have a KP Hydro copper so no point in buying a block for the strix. 3090 KP probably performs better anywho.


I am number 1 on list for Strix Block myself. I'm more excited for Optimus other products like Radiator and Glass Reservoir


----------



## Optimus WC

Keith Myers said:


> Pure silver is too soft for the application I think. Would be very difficult to machine.


There are ways around this  In fact, we've already made a full silver Gen2 cold plate. Works great  

It's just the cost is bananas and dealing with the machining chips would be nuts. It's one thing to have a barrel of copper shavings from machining, but a barrel of solid silver would be crazy. It'd be worth a fortune and I don't know what'd we even do with it. Jewelers don't even deal with that kind of production -- we start from raw silver bars, they start from cast blanks. 

But, hey, if people want it, we'll put it on the project list


----------



## LiquidHaus

Can we put teasing the KPE block on the list?


----------



## Optimus WC

LiquidHaus said:


> Can we put teasing the KPE block on the list?


lol it's at the top of the list. We have a loooong list


----------



## iamjanco

^Silver melts at 1,763°F (961.8°C). Maybe get a cheap forge and melt it down into small ingots? Then you could add an ingot to each block package, charge extra for it, and recoup some of the money you spent on source materials.

But hey, how 'bout platinum? Now that would be something.


----------



## LiquidHaus

With all the material talk, how about instead of Acrylic tops, you also do Sapphire?


----------



## cptclutch

I have an Optimus foundation block with a z490-e strix board and am considering going direct die with the rockitcool kit. I'm a bit nervous about clearance and compatibility. Will this combination work? I've seen a few comments saying that the Foundation isn't really meant for direct die use, but I'm not sure about the validity there. I know the Asus boards are pretty tight and don't work with bigger EK blocks, but seems like the lower profile Optimus ones should work.


----------



## onMute

Optimus WC said:


> lol it's at the top of the list. We have a loooong list


But how long until a render?


----------



## tbrown7552

Optimus WC said:


> There are ways around this  In fact, we've already made a full silver Gen2 cold plate. Works great
> 
> It's just the cost is bananas and dealing with the machining chips would be nuts. It's one thing to have a barrel of copper shavings from machining, but a barrel of solid silver would be crazy. It'd be worth a fortune and I don't know what'd we even do with it. Jewelers don't even deal with that kind of production -- we start from raw silver bars, they start from cast blanks.
> 
> But, hey, if people want it, we'll put it on the project list


melt the chips down into cast blanks and sell them to jewelers lol


----------



## onMute

LiquidHaus said:


> With all the material talk, how about instead of Acrylic tops, you also do Sapphire?


The block would weigh 10lbs


----------



## Optimus WC

cptclutch said:


> I have an Optimus foundation block with a z490-e strix board and am considering going direct die with the rockitcool kit. I'm a bit nervous about clearance and compatibility. Will this combination work? I've seen a few comments saying that the Foundation isn't really meant for direct die use, but I'm not sure about the validity there. I know the Asus boards are pretty tight and don't work with bigger EK blocks, but seems like the lower profile Optimus ones should work.


Good questions: All our blocks good for direct die, because our mounting style doesn't use stops and springs, it allows for hard mounting to any depth. And gives you a lot more control to dial in the tension. 

With direct die, the challenges are the size of the die and the bracket. Our Signature was specially designed to handle direct die really well, though Foundation works as well. Both have bows that allow the cold plate to get inside the die bracket without conflicting with the mount outside. 

also, our block arms are slim but beefy for easy clearance


----------



## Optimus WC

LiquidHaus said:


> With all the material talk, how about instead of Acrylic tops, you also do Sapphire?


We do have something fancy in the works, not sapphire but a step up from other materials



tbrown7552 said:


> melt the chips down into cast blanks and sell them to jewelers lol


not bad idea, maybe we'll make Optimus silver coins and advertise on late night tv



onMute said:


> The block would weigh 10lbs


So not much more than the current block


----------



## D-EJ915

Optimus WC said:


> We do have something fancy in the works, not sapphire but a step up from other materials


Smoked/coloured acrylic would probably be pretty nice for an after-sale "mod", I know you can buy cast acrylic in colours but not sure if it's the same type you all use.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> We do have something fancy in the works, not sapphire but a step up from other materials
> 
> 
> 
> not bad idea, maybe we'll make Optimus silver coins and advertise on late night tv
> 
> 
> 
> So not much more than the current block


Keep us informed. Might use that for lga1700


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> We do have something fancy in the works, not sapphire but a step up from other materials


Electrochromic glass maybe? Haha. On behalf of everyone, I’d like to say thank you for the increased presence in this thread. I didn’t exactly get permission to speak on behalf of anyone but I doubt anyone would argue with that statement.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Electrochromic glass maybe? Haha. On behalf of everyone, I’d like to say thank you for the increased presence in this thread. I didn’t exactly get permission to speak on behalf of anyone but I doubt anyone would argue with that statement.


Me too. We always enjoy talking watercooling and products with Optimus. One reason i really this brand - quality and they get us genuinely excited for there products. So much that some of us will sell there products to friends looking at high end watercooling.


----------



## iamjanco

Optimus WC said:


> Good questions: All our blocks good for direct die, because our mounting style doesn't use stops and springs, it allows for hard mounting to any depth. And gives you a lot more control to dial in the tension.
> 
> With direct die, the challenges are the size of the die and the bracket. Our Signature was specially designed to handle direct die really well, though Foundation works as well. Both have bows that allow the cold plate to get inside the die bracket without conflicting with the mount outside.


Curious, do you provide some sort of disclaimer when it comes to using your blocks in a direct die setup; and or instructions on how to mount them properly that way? I realize a lot of us are adults here who should know better, but we're really posting in an environment that includes all kinds of questionable characters. 

Just saying. I realize that in your warranty you do _state incorrect usage cannot be covered. For example, forcing screws into threads, over tightening thumb screws or modding products. _Not sure how well that covers you though given what I stated above.


----------



## Section31

Really curious about optimus radiator. I just put into service my mo-ra3 420 with dual pump top and so far it’s fairly restrictive. In order to get 1gpm i need pumps running at 65-70%


----------



## Section31

Apparently reference (xc3) after kingpin on optimus twitter


----------



## acoustic

Ew.

Make an FE block  I would consider a 3090 FE (especially since the price, you know, actually makes sense) if I could get a good block for it. I know EK makes one, but ... EK ..


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Ew.
> 
> Make an FE block  I would consider a 3090 FE (especially since the price, you know, actually makes sense) if I could get a good block for it. I know EK makes one, but ... EK ..


Doesn’t seem like happening. Thats why i glad i avoided founders. Hope next one is referrence. 

I have no issues paying optimus prices for its gpu block but aib cards, i rather not pay.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Doesn’t seem like happening. Thats why i glad i avoided founders. Hope next one is referrence.
> 
> I have no issues paying optimus prices for its gpu block but aib cards, i rather not pay.


The FE is built pretty well too. I'd probably shunt mod it since the power limit kinda sucks.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> The FE is built pretty well too. I'd probably shunt mod it since the power limit kinda sucks.


Founders are generally well built. They just need to stick to reference pcb.


----------



## cptclutch

Optimus WC said:


> Good questions: All our blocks good for direct die, because our mounting style doesn't use stops and springs, it allows for hard mounting to any depth. And gives you a lot more control to dial in the tension.
> 
> With direct die, the challenges are the size of the die and the bracket. Our Signature was specially designed to handle direct die really well, though Foundation works as well. Both have bows that allow the cold plate to get inside the die bracket without conflicting with the mount outside.
> 
> also, our block arms are slim but beefy for easy clearance


Thanks! Final question, does mounting it goofy impact the fitment with direct die specifically? I'm using an O11 with a side distro so it works much better with goofy mount, but if it's an issue with the direct die I'll run it regular and deal with it.


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> Electrochromic glass maybe? Haha. On behalf of everyone, I’d like to say thank you for the increased presence in this thread. I didn’t exactly get permission to speak on behalf of anyone but I doubt anyone would argue with that statement.


Definitely! We're happy to be here  



Section31 said:


> Me too. We always enjoy talking watercooling and products with Optimus. One reason i really this brand - quality and they get us genuinely excited for there products. So much that some of us will sell there products to friends looking at high end watercooling.


It's mutual, we like hearing ideas from the "brain trust" here lol -- lots of good ideas.



iamjanco said:


> Curious, do you provide some sort of disclaimer when it comes to using your blocks in a direct die setup; and or instructions on how to mount them properly that way? I realize a lot of us are adults here who should know better, but we're really posting in an environment that includes all kinds of questionable characters.
> 
> Just saying. I realize that in your warranty you do _state incorrect usage cannot be covered. For example, forcing screws into threads, over tightening thumb screws or modding products. _Not sure how well that covers you though given what I stated above.


It's very hard to damage our blocks, if there is a defect, we'll cover it no problem. Our disclaimer is to make it clear that water cooling, modding, delidding etc is at your own risk, as always, we can't be responsible for cracked dies and the like  



acoustic said:


> The FE is built pretty well too. I'd probably shunt mod it since the power limit kinda sucks.


It seems like all previous generations, NVIDIA isn't continuing making the FEs. It's a shame, cool design, but the reference always takes over.


----------



## Optimus WC

cptclutch said:


> Thanks! Final question, does mounting it goofy impact the fitment with direct die specifically? I'm using an O11 with a side distro so it works much better with goofy mount, but if it's an issue with the direct die I'll run it regular and deal with it.


Yes, you absolutely need to have the jet plateau mounted correctly in relation to the die. It doesn't matter as much with an IHS, but with direct die, goofy won't make correct contact. The Intel Signature block is designed to have the logo in the correct orientation for install. Basically, the jet slot and plateau is vertical so it matches the vertical intel CPU die. Turn it sideways, and it won't have the same shape and will probably hit the die plate.


----------



## Mroberts95

Yes thank you for all of the communication.

Much better than 2020 and cant wait to see what you guys bring out next.

KP block is my most wanted of 2021 to finally be done with my system for a few years. However companies keep releasing cool stuff tempting me.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Basically, the jet slot and plateau is vertical so it matches the vertical intel CPU die. Turn it sideways, and it won't have the same shape and will probably hit the die plate.


The 390 Dark and I'm sure new versions all have the CPU die horizontal so this doesn't apply to all MB's. Turning it sideways and upside is the correct way for me.




Mroberts95 said:


> finally be done with my system for a few years


I've said this at least 4 times to myself in the last 2 years. I don't think I'll ever be truly done, always something to upgrade or improve.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> The 390 Dark and I'm sure new versions all have the CPU die horizontal so this doesn't apply to all MB's. Turning it sideways and upside is the correct way for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've said this at least 4 times to myself in the last 2 years. I don't think I'll ever be truly done, always something to upgrade or improve.


Me too. We got to be careful on hardware part. Watercooling side is something that can be experimented on as parts are reusable (except GPU blocks)


----------



## Section31

OdysseyX out


----------



## Mroberts95

Section31 said:


> OdysseyX


Whats that?


----------



## Section31

Mroberts95 said:


> Whats that?











LIAN LI Odyssey X Black Tempered Glass on the Left and Right Sides, Aluminum Full Tower Gaming Computer Case - TR-01X - Newegg.com


Buy LIAN LI Odyssey X Black Tempered Glass on the Left and Right Sides, Aluminum Full Tower Gaming Computer Case - TR-01X with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you Newegg!




www.newegg.com





Caselabs Price


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> LIAN LI Odyssey X Black Tempered Glass on the Left and Right Sides, Aluminum Full Tower Gaming Computer Case - TR-01X - Newegg.com
> 
> 
> Buy LIAN LI Odyssey X Black Tempered Glass on the Left and Right Sides, Aluminum Full Tower Gaming Computer Case - TR-01X with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you Newegg!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.newegg.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Caselabs Price


Glass on both sides means it'll be really mediocre performance wise


----------



## LiquidHaus

Section31 said:


> OdysseyX out


Yessir it is


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> OdysseyX out


OOHHHHH... Maybe that means the V3000+ is coming soon!


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Glass on both sides means it'll be really mediocre performance wise


I prefer the V3000+ myself


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> OOHHHHH... Maybe that means the V3000+ is coming soon!


If the 011Evo Not Yet Released, i doubt the V3000+ will be. The Odyssey X was announced the same time as O11XL so its really an 2018 case.


----------



## HyperMatrix

LiquidHaus said:


> Yessir it is


I want your life.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Not really a fan of the OdysseyX, but I'm not surprised LiquidHaus already has a beautifully done build in it 

The last thing I need is a new case, but I really want a V3000+


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> If the 011Evo Not Yet Released, i doubt the V3000+ will be. The Odyssey X was announced the same time as O11XL so its really an 2018 case.


Well thanks for crushing my hopes.. LOL...


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Well thanks for crushing my hopes.. LOL...


Who knows, LianLi might even have better case for next expo. Lianli not too far from getting all caselabs owners to replace there cases.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> I've said this at least 4 times to myself in the last 2 years. I don't think I'll ever be truly done, always something to upgrade or improve.


Best way to avoid upgrading so frequently is to not visit OCN so often


----------



## acoustic

All my stuff came in today! Super excited to get this build going. Just need something to cut this EPDM tubing


----------



## jura11

Section31 said:


> Who knows, LianLi might even have better case for next expo. Lianli not too far from getting all caselabs owners to replace there cases.


If someone made case similar to SMA-8 or something similar to M10 or M8 then maybe I will switch but until this will happen then I'm staying with Caselabs 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## satinghostrider

Are you guys planning to release Optimus blocks for the Gaming X Trio / Suprim X? Would really be neat if you guys do. Quite a market for those who own those cards.


----------



## Section31

satinghostrider said:


> Are you guys planning to release Optimus blocks for the Gaming X Trio / Suprim X? Would really be neat if you guys do. Quite a market for those who own those cards.


Those are odd blocks support la - no heatkiller/aquacomputer/optimus support la. Nice to see more international posters in this section.


----------



## Shawnb99

jura11 said:


> If someone made case similar to SMA-8 or something similar to M10 or M8 then maybe I will switch but until this will happen then I'm staying with Caselabs
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


I need a TX10 clone to switch. That or a THW10


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I need a TX10 clone to switch. That or a THW10


Optimus might eventually make cases lol


----------



## Bartdude

Problem is case manufacturers put looks before functionality when it comes to water cooling. Yeah they put space to accept rads but they don't understand the concept, hence people using there rads in exhaust


----------



## satinghostrider

Section31 said:


> Those are odd blocks support la - no heatkiller/aquacomputer/optimus support la. Nice to see more international posters in this section.


WAH. It is not everyday you hear someone speak Singlish on international forums and your life is complete. 🤣🤣🤣

Well, I do hope they release those blocks. They certainly would be great as the MSI cards are also just as popular and the Strix being a custom card, I think it is a matter if they decide it is worth at the end of the day. I would not really call it odd blocks support. Odd blocks would be something like the Galax HOF Lab series cards or the less popular brands/series.


----------



## Section31

satinghostrider said:


> WAH. It is not everyday you hear someone speak Singlish on international forums and your life is complete. 🤣🤣🤣
> 
> Well, I do hope they release those blocks. They certainly would be great as the MSI cards are also just as popular and the Strix being a custom card, I think it is a matter if they decide it is worth at the end of the day. I would not really call it odd blocks support. Odd blocks would be something like the Galax HOF Lab series cards or the less popular brands/series.


I spent couple years in singapore working so i picked up some singlish lol. The galax aren’t available in north america anymore otherwise lot of ppl would buy the galax hof cards -they are better than kingpin. Good choice of block company if they make it for your card.


----------



## Mroberts95

@
*Optimus WC*

I have a friend looking for a FTW3 block and it looks like they are all sold out. Any blemish blocks etc going up soon or is production at 100% no issues


----------



## Section31

Mroberts95 said:


> @
> *Optimus WC*
> 
> I have a friend looking for a FTW3 block and it looks like they are all sold out. Any blemish blocks etc going up soon or is production at 100% no issues


I had an block for sale but someone took it up.


----------



## Mroberts95

Section31 said:


> I had an block for sale but someone took it up.


All good. If anybody comes across one or have one for sale LMK, He would pay a little over MSRP but nothing crazy!

He just got paid and was about to buy one today and it looks like they are sold out so he was a little bummed.


----------



## Section31

Mroberts95 said:


> All good. If anybody comes across one or have one for sale LMK, He would pay a little over MSRP but nothing crazy!
> 
> He just got paid and was about to buy one today and it looks like they are sold out so he was a little bummed.


It was hard sell for mine lol. 300Cad (shipping handled by buyer).


----------



## Mroberts95

Section31 said:


> It was hard sell for mine lol. 300Cad (shipping handled by buyer).


Whoever got that was a steal even after shipping/ customs etc if in USA.

Lucky them haha. Ill find one or my friend will just have to wait for orders to reopen.


----------



## Section31

Mroberts95 said:


> Whoever got that was a steal even after shipping/ customs etc if in USA.
> 
> Lucky them haha. Ill find one or my friend will just have to wait for orders to reopen.


Still not closed as guy looking for 3080ftw3 lol


----------



## Mroberts95

Maybe Optimus will have some blemish blocks. My friend will probably go EKWB next if they are going to be another 1-2 month wait.


----------



## sakete

I think my next purchase will either be a PS5 or Xbox Series X. Is that blasphemy here?


----------



## Section31

Mroberts95 said:


> Maybe Optimus will have some blemish blocks. My friend will probably go EKWB next if they are going to be another 1-2 month wait.


Wait for Optimus. I suspect they will open up orders by friday


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> I think my next purchase will either be a PS5 or Xbox Series X. Is that blasphemy here?


It's blasphemy to think you'll be able to find one


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> I think my next purchase will either be a PS5 or Xbox Series X. Is that blasphemy here?


Not at all. It complements your pc. Mine just sits there gathering dust.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> It's blasphemy to think you'll be able to find one


Not that hard to find. Its msrp anyways


----------



## Mroberts95

We shall see. Forgot they open new orders on Fridays. We shall see if thats the case or not this week.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Not that hard to find. Its msrp anyways


Xbox is a bit easier. PS5 still sells out in minutes. I'd grab one if I could but never been able to snag one yet


----------



## acoustic

I love my PS5. Ghost of Tsushima on my OLED was an amazing experience.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I love my PS5. Ghost of Tsushima on my OLED was an amazing experience.


I just got the cosmic red controller myself. Nice gaming experience but just cant find urge to play myself


----------



## Mroberts95

Im in a discord that tracks things coming in stock etc from a ton of retailers in regards to consoles, GPUS etc, Not bots but just notifications things are back in stock.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Xbox is a bit easier. PS5 still sells out in minutes. I'd grab one if I could but never been able to snag one yet


Borrow mine lol. Ain’t joking mine been sitting gathering dust.


----------



## Mroberts95

Josh said more usually get added Friday so I will check back then it seems.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Borrow mine lol. Ain’t joking mine been sitting gathering dust.


Thanks but it's ok. I rarely play my Xbox as it is. I like to ***** more then anything. My working hours prevents me from getting one, if I really wanted one I'm sure I'd find one. That or find a scalper that's not selling for double. Bought my PS3 that way at the flea market for $800


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Thanks but it's ok. I rarely play my Xbox as it is. I like to *** more then anything. My working hours prevents me from getting one, if I really wanted one I'm sure I'd find one. That or find a scalper that's not selling for double. Bought my PS3 that way at the flea market for $800


Lot of us in that boat


----------



## chibi

sakete said:


> Best way to avoid upgrading so frequently is to not visit OCN so often


This man speaks of wisdom, one that I can fully agree with.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> This man speaks of wisdom, one that I can fully agree with.


Yup. OCN is dead except this little section. If your here, its Optimus Watercooling Fan Club/Addicition Thread lol


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> Yup. OCN is dead except this little section. If your here, its Optimus Watercooling Fan Club/Addition Thread lol


I basically jump in here for this thread, aqua computer, and CaseLabs and that's all I check.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, you absolutely need to have the jet plateau mounted correctly in relation to the die. It doesn't matter as much with an IHS, but with direct die, goofy won't make correct contact. The Intel Signature block is designed to have the logo in the correct orientation for install. Basically, the jet slot and plateau is vertical so it matches the vertical intel CPU die. Turn it sideways, and it won't have the same shape and will probably hit the die plate.


Just to let you know, i might have another couple individuals interested in your GPU Blocks once you add reference cards support.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> It's blasphemy to think you'll be able to find one


It’s not that hard. I’ve been able to grab 5 in the last 3 weeks. Just follow some stock trackers on Twitter.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> It’s not that hard. I’ve been able to grab 5 in the last 3 weeks. Just follow some stock trackers on Twitter.


Turns out he's not that interested in one lol. Another one of those people (like me) who don't have time, etc to play games but collects/buy gaming related stuff.


----------



## Mroberts95

If anybody wants a like new HC Kingpin 3090 for retail, lmk.


----------



## dwolvin

What's the story on it?


----------



## criskoe

@Optimus WC 

Is it safe to pressure test Optimus blocks with air up to .75 Bar / 11 PSI???


----------



## cptclutch

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, you absolutely need to have the jet plateau mounted correctly in relation to the die. It doesn't matter as much with an IHS, but with direct die, goofy won't make correct contact. The Intel Signature block is designed to have the logo in the correct orientation for install. Basically, the jet slot and plateau is vertical so it matches the vertical intel CPU die. Turn it sideways, and it won't have the same shape and will probably hit the die plate.


Final stupid question, can I mount it upside down (logo up top)? Just works better with my distro to have that orientation. This is my first build so just trying to be extra cautious and do it right, you guys do a great job with the support here!


----------



## Section31

Draft Plumbing work while waiting for Optimus (will need some adjustments). Modular design. Other minor tweaks coming among them Aquacomputer Octo and Dewire Cable Management System. At least i know things work. Nearly to finish line of finishing this build up. That and start working on new solution to get the caselabs top lid compatible with top mounted rads.


----------



## JustinThyme

Yeah you can flip it. That’s not the “goofy” mount which is sideways. Unfortunately for some reason almost all come with inlet on the left when 99% of builds use a cooling solution where you need a right inlet. That’s one thing the Magnitude has over the Sig V2. Simply open it up and flip the directional block inside and in/out are reversed. The Optimus foundation you can flip it in the mount. The Sig V2 you either have to put inlet on the left or flip it upside down with the logo going upside down with it.


----------



## Altimax98

Mroberts95 said:


> @
> *Optimus WC*
> 
> I have a friend looking for a FTW3 block and it looks like they are all sold out. Any blemish blocks etc going up soon or is production at 100% no issues


Optimus lists items on Fridays, I got my blemish FTW3 w/Satin XL backplate around 11am et last Friday and just installed it on my card yesterday


----------



## Altimax98

Edit - I just read through more of the post and saw that the Foundation works fine with direct die... already ordered my kit!


----------



## cptclutch

Did anyone use the Rockitcool kit with the Foundation? I delidded my 10900k today and now I'm just a bit worried about getting it mounted properly. Do I need to do anything specific or can I just drop it with the stock mount setup. Rockitcool includes some washers and hardware for the "custom loop" option with no instructions.


----------



## Shawnb99

cptclutch said:


> Did anyone use the Rockitcool kit with the Foundation? I delidded my 10900k today and now I'm just a bit worried about getting it mounted properly. Do I need to do anything specific or can I just drop it with the stock mount setup. Rockitcool includes some washers and hardware for the "custom loop" option with no instructions.


With the 9900k I just dropped it in with the stock Rockit mount


----------



## Optimus WC

criskoe said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Is it safe to pressure test Optimus blocks with air up to .75 Bar / 11 PSI???


Yes, for sure! We do 20 psi before it leaves the shop.


----------



## criskoe

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, for sure! We do 20 psi before it leaves the shop.


Fantastic. Thanks for clarifying.


----------



## cptclutch

Shawnb99 said:


> With the 9900k I just dropped it in with the stock Rockit mount


Appreciate it. Got it all mounted and the results are insane. I cut my temps in HALF coming from an old corsair 280mm AIO in push/pull. Sub 50c during an OCCT stress which was sending me well into the 80's and low 90's previously. I'm going to have some fun tuning this now with all this headroom. Aiming for 5.4.


----------



## Section31

From Optimus Twitter

KINGPIN UPDATES: Active backplate will be standard! Backplate block color will be same as main block - nickel + acrylic, etc. Yes, KP OLED panel. Yes, NV Link. Yes, insane performance.
https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC/status/1408434205852192773/photo/1


----------



## Optimus WC

cptclutch said:


> Appreciate it. Got it all mounted and the results are insane. I cut my temps in HALF coming from an old corsair 280mm AIO in push/pull. Sub 50c during an OCCT stress which was sending me well into the 80's and low 90's previously. I'm going to have some fun tuning this now with all this headroom. Aiming for 5.4.



Excellent results!! Thanks for letting everyone know your bare die success, we haven't run that exact cpu/bracket combo internally, so good to know 



Section31 said:


> From Optimus Twitter
> 
> KINGPIN UPDATES: Active backplate will be standard! Backplate block color will be same as main block - nickel + acrylic, etc. Yes, KP OLED panel. Yes, NV Link. Yes, insane performance.
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1408434205852192773


It's shaping up well


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> It's shaping up well


When?


----------



## Recipe7

@Optimus WC 

Active backplate standard, option for XL heatsink available at launch?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Yeah hoping for the XL heatsink for launch to keep launch date sooner!


----------



## Optimus WC

Can't commit to sales date yet, but getting close. 

For active backplate, the latest is we're designing it all at once since there are considerations for the front of the block as well (and terminal). It's looking like at this point we'll just go active, no passive, and it'll be one monster block. Our first Signature GPU block


----------



## Wihglah

Any news on an active backplate for the FTW3?


----------



## Optimus WC

Wihglah said:


> Any news on an active backplate for the FTW3?


Not yet, we'll evaluate how we're doing with production and design time after the KP. 

Also, while the active backplate is good, it's almost impossible on the FTW3 to see any real-world diff between active and our XL Heatsink. Chasing numbers, sure, but actual performance or even benchmarks, there is practically no diff because of how temps affect mem OC. In fact, adding a fan to blow on our XL Heatsink will drop mem another 10c


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> In fact, adding a fan to blow on our XL Heatsink will drop mem another 10c


Fan on the XL Heatsink confirmed


----------



## tbrown7552

Optimus WC said:


> For active backplate, the latest is we're designing it all at once since there are considerations for the front of the block as well (and terminal). It's looking like at this point we'll just go active, no passive, and it'll be one monster block. Our first Signature GPU block


I support this idea.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Excellent results!! Thanks for letting everyone know your bare die success, we haven't run that exact cpu/bracket combo internally, so good to know
> 
> 
> 
> It's shaping up well


Can you make us an backplate that can add fans onto the backplate. Great results.


----------



## Section31

For those wanting an Kingpin in Canada, One User i know is actually considering selling there (or trade for 3080 FTW3/Strix). They also are targetting Optimus Blocks.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Excellent results!! Thanks for letting everyone know your bare die success, we haven't run that exact cpu/bracket combo internally, so good to know
> 
> 
> 
> It's shaping up well


Also feel free to ask for better pictures of my final build (once i get the strix block) if you want to showcase it. It's not the prettiest but its one of the more practical ones.


----------



## Optimus WC

Right on  And as for the fan on the backplate, we talked about it, but decided to just get to the other projects, like KP, maybe active for other blocks, etc. If someone cares about back temps that much, then they'd prob go active anyway. And, again, no real world difference or even measurable difference on any of these options. 

The one thing I will say is having good airflow in the case even if it's 100% water cooled is still important, other stuff radiates a ton of heat, so for random people reading this, make sure you use extra fans to cool the inside, everything will be cooler as a result.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> The one thing I will say is having good airflow in the case even if it's 100% water cooled is still important, other stuff radiates a ton of heat, so for random people reading this, make sure you use extra fans to cool the inside, everything will be cooler as a result.


Good thing I have 64 of them then


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Good thing I have 64 of them then


You and your fans. You are an legend solely on the number of Noctua A12x25 you own.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Right on  And as for the fan on the backplate, we talked about it, but decided to just get to the other projects, like KP, maybe active for other blocks, etc. If someone cares about back temps that much, then they'd prob go active anyway. And, again, no real world difference or even measurable difference on any of these options.
> 
> The one thing I will say is having good airflow in the case even if it's 100% water cooled is still important, other stuff radiates a ton of heat, so for random people reading this, make sure you use extra fans to cool the inside, everything will be cooler as a result.


With the all interest in this thread, wonder if some of us could apply for your beta testing program for new products. We love to support your new products.


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> With the all interest in this thread, wonder if some of us could apply for your beta testing program for new products. We love to support your new products.


You guys already are our beta testing program 

Honestly, we'll prob do that with radiators or cases or something like that. Having a beta period of, say, a month that would delay things a month would basically set this forum on fire.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> You guys already are our beta testing program
> 
> Honestly, we'll prob do that with radiators or cases or something like that. Having a beta period of, say, a month that would delay things a month would basically set this forum on fire.


You definitely will have many of us interested in both. If you ever do cases, its probably an case we would be very much interested in.


----------



## acoustic

I'm tearing down my 011XL to get it prepped for the loop, and I'm seriously looking at other cases to try and see if it's worth just getting rid of it now..


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I'm tearing down my 011XL to get it prepped for the loop, and I'm seriously looking at other cases to try and see if it's worth just getting rid of it now..


Nothing really nice out there except V3000+/011Evo atm imo. That and that atlus case that liquidhaus showed couple days ago.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Nothing really nice out there except V3000+/011Evo atm imo. That and that atlus case that liquidhaus showed couple days ago.


Yeah that Atlus case is nice, but an open-bench just isn't feasible for an every-day rig. No dust filters, etc.. sounds like a nightmare to deal with lol.

The Thermaltake cases have kind of grabbed my interest. They have some very CaseLabs-esque designs with modularity and space for a ton of rads. I just don't know if I can stomach paying Thermaltake lol


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Yeah that Atlus case is nice, but an open-bench just isn't feasible for an every-day rig. No dust filters, etc.. sounds like a nightmare to deal with lol.
> 
> The Thermaltake cases have kind of grabbed my interest. They have some very CaseLabs-esque designs with modularity and space for a ton of rads. I just don't know if I can stomach paying Thermaltake lol


Wait for LianLi or Optimus case lol


----------



## Optimus WC

Optimus case is a waaaays out -- we want to do it, but it's a whole different type of project that we haven't started. Once we get going on it, I'll yet ya know. Right now, it's all GPUs


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Optimus case is a waaaays out -- we want to do it, but it's a whole different type of project that we haven't started. Once we get going on it, I'll yet ya know. Right now, it's all GPUs


We can wait lol. Look how many of us still hold our caselabs cases to this day. If you can make an case that matches them in quality and modularity/ease to build in, we will buy it lol. Caselabs closure left big whole in that niche area that hasn't been filled yet.


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> We can wait lol. Look how many of us still hold our caselabs cases to this day. If you can make an case that matches them in quality and modularity/ease to build in, we will buy it lol. Caselabs closure left big whole in that niche area that hasn't been filled yet.


Caselabs was great stuff. We prob won't be doing a Caselabs style case/clone, though it's needed. We like being unique. Here's a preview:


----------



## cptclutch

Optimus WC said:


> Optimus case is a waaaays out -- we want to do it, but it's a whole different type of project that we haven't started. Once we get going on it, I'll yet ya know. Right now, it's all GPUs


You guys need any help? Looking for an engineering internship


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Caselabs was great stuff. We prob won't be doing a Caselabs style case/clone, though it's needed. We like being unique. Here's a preview:
> 
> View attachment 2515281



Your unique take will be appreciated just as much. Just consider us big watercoolers, like Shawnb99 and his multiple 480mm thick radiator in his setup. SFF has enough support as is. It's the sector occupued by Caselabs larger case users that have been neglected since they went under.


----------



## acoustic

I'm telling you, that Thermaltake W100 case looks amazing. I need to try and find one so I can "play with it" and see if it's quality or not. The W100 looks a lot better for WCing than the V3000+ even..

I don't want to see Optimus bite off more than it can chew and try expanding product lines too fast.


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> Your unique take will be appreciated just as much. Just consider us big watercoolers, like Shawnb99 and his multiple 480mm thick radiator in his setup. SFF has enough support as is. It's the sector occupued by Caselabs larger case users that have been neglected since they went under.





acoustic said:


> I'm telling you, that Thermaltake W100 case looks amazing. I need to try and find one so I can "play with it" and see if it's quality or not. The W100 looks a lot better for WCing than the V3000+ even..
> 
> I don't want to see Optimus bite off more than it can chew and try expanding product lines too fast.


Yup, the companies that can produce monster cases (TT, Lian Li, Corsair) have been around a looooong time. There is so much that goes into cases like that, like extra large equipment to make them. It's hundreds of thousands to get the machines needed to make stuff like that. And it's a completely different process to do huge cases vs tiny precision waterblocks. 

We definitely won't be starting with a multi 480mm or 560mm case. And it won't be another SSF. Honestly, this is a super premature conversation  But the goal would be max watercooling performance and quality etc etc. But there are so many sizes and layouts of cases right now, it'll be really hard to choose the place to start. Though much of that will be dictated by manufacturing capabilities on our end.


----------



## LiquidHaus

acoustic said:


> I'm telling you, that Thermaltake W100 case looks amazing. I need to try and find one so I can "play with it" and see if it's quality or not. The W100 looks a lot better for WCing than the V3000+ even..
> 
> I don't want to see Optimus bite off more than it can chew and try expanding product lines too fast.


I would say its quality, in that it's sturdy enough to handle all sorts of mods. 1/16" steel for most of it iirc, but the only time it seemed flimsy for me was removing the acrylic from the side panel, which then just made the side panel a giant "frame" which wobbled if I swung it open (side panel uses half pin barrel hinges and magnets)


As for the Lian Li, they've slowly been transitioning to a thicker aluminum as their main material rather than steel.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> I would say its quality, in that it's sturdy enough to handle all sorts of mods. 1/16" steel for most of it iirc, but the only time it seemed flimsy for me was removing the acrylic from the side panel, which then just made the side panel a giant "frame" which wobbled if I swung it open (side panel uses half pin barrel hinges and magnets)
> 
> 
> As for the Lian Li, they've slowly been transitioning to a thicker aluminum as their main material rather than steel.


hence why high prices for niche cases


----------



## Kana Chan

Any chance for direct die cooling of ram sticks? ( double sided too? ) in the future? It looks like those settings could be ran daily?


----------



## criskoe

cptclutch said:


> Appreciate it. Got it all mounted and the results are insane. I cut my temps in HALF coming from an old corsair 280mm AIO in push/pull. Sub 50c during an OCCT stress which was sending me well into the 80's and low 90's previously. I'm going to have some fun tuning this now with all this headroom. Aiming for 5.4.


Sent you a PM..


----------



## Section31

Made some minor tweaks while i wait for Optimus Block, Octo and Dewire Fan Cable Management to come in. However looking near final and hope to have up and running by mid July.

Concept is great though. Borrowed the octo from my mo-ra3 to test out placement and its lot better cable management wise.


----------



## LiquidHaus

How mine is sitting:










I'll be tearing the rig down hopefully pretty soon to finally build it in the Atlas II chassis. There's just so many projects going on lol


----------



## Shawnb99

I can't wait to get rid of the damn AIO on the KPE. Just gets in the way.









I hope to do my last tear down when I get the block and go vertical. Have to drop down to one reservoir and likely end up removing my 2x 360’s


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I can't wait to get rid of the damn AIO on the KPE. Just gets in the way.
> 
> View attachment 2515373
> 
> I hope to do my last tear down when I get the block and go vertical. Have to drop down to one reservoir and likely end up removing my 2x 360’s


Lot of promotional material for Optimus


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> I can't wait to get rid of the damn AIO on the KPE. Just gets in the way.
> 
> View attachment 2515373
> 
> I hope to do my last tear down when I get the block and go vertical. Have to drop down to one reservoir and likely end up removing my 2x 360’s


Love the gaff tape rad mount  Also, with that many rads, having extra flow from the double pumps should show results on the KP block, esp if you go crazy with OC.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Love the gaff tape rad mount  Also, with that many rads, having extra flow from the double pumps should show results on the KP block, esp if you go crazy with OC.


Shawnb99 inspired some of us to go crazy on pumps lol. I got three because of him. Welcome to bring your case ideas to us since we have lot of experience in builds.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Love the gaff tape rad mount  Also, with that many rads, having extra flow from the double pumps should show results on the KP block, esp if you go crazy with OC.


Saw your twitter. Home - Renderboxes.com | Professional render workstations Very interesting cases


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> Saw your twitter. Home - Renderboxes.com | Professional render workstations Very interesting cases


Yeah they're pretty cool, made for loads of WCed GPUs. They don't sell the cases by themselves, people have asked


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Love the gaff tape rad mount  Also, with that many rads, having extra flow from the double pumps should show results on the KP block, esp if you go crazy with OC.


lol double pumps. There’s 6 in there atm


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> lol double pumps. There’s 6 in there atm


🤣🤣🤣 forgot who I was talking to! After the kingpin, we'll be sure to make a hexa-pump.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Yeah they're pretty cool, made for loads of WCed GPUs. They don't sell the cases by themselves, people have asked


As is case with many of the cool cases. Niche market. Whenever you guys come out with rads and glass reservoir the rig will look even better


----------



## b1gpoop

Optimus WC said:


> 🤣🤣🤣 forgot who I was talking to! After the kingpin, we'll be sure to make a hexa-pump.


On the topic of totally overkill products, any plans to come out with cast acrylic tubing soon? It feels sacrilegious to connect your beautiful cast blocks and reservoir with plebian extruded tubing.


----------



## Optimus WC

b1gpoop said:


> On the topic of totally overkill products, any plans to come out with cast acrylic tubing soon? It feels sacrilegious to connect your beautiful cast blocks and reservoir with plebian extruded tubing.


From my understanding, cast acrylic tubing can't be made that small, I think the limit is like 2" diameter or something. 

Worth pointing out we don't actually make the acrylic, it's by Polycast or Acrylite or Plexiglas or whoever, there are a number of top companies competing for bulletproof acrylic. So extruded by a premium brand would be worthwhile


----------



## b1gpoop

Optimus WC said:


> From my understanding, cast acrylic tubing can't be made that small, I think the limit is like 2" diameter or something.
> 
> Worth pointing out we don't actually make the acrylic, it's by Polycast or Acrylite or Plexiglas or whoever, there are a number of top companies competing for bulletproof acrylic. So extruded by a premium brand would be worthwhile


Ah bummer. 2" fittings coming soon? Haha

While I have you, what's the timeframe on the reservoir mounts? It's said "coming soon" on the website for like 2 weeks now and I haven't seen anything about it on your twitter or anything.


----------



## Optimus WC

b1gpoop said:


> Ah bummer. 2" fittings coming soon? Haha
> 
> While I have you, what's the timeframe on the reservoir mounts? It's said "coming soon" on the website for like 2 weeks now and I haven't seen anything about it on your twitter or anything.


It's honestly been months. The challenge is each part requires significant amounts of time to set up for machining and production. The bracket is designed and we have the material, but right now we're producing Strix and finishing up kingpin design. I'll see about after KP if we can get it slotted into production because it's definitely needed!


----------



## b1gpoop

Optimus WC said:


> It's honestly been months. The challenge is each part requires significant amounts of time to set up for machining and production. The bracket is designed and we have the material, but right now we're producing Strix and finishing up kingpin design. I'll see about after KP if we can get it slotted into production because it's definitely needed!


Darn you limited production capacity, let the people have the all Optimus build they desire! In all seriousness, keep up the great work. I'm excited for my Strix block to arrive hopefully soon 🤞


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> It's honestly been months. The challenge is each part requires significant amounts of time to set up for machining and production. The bracket is designed and we have the material, but right now we're producing Strix and finishing up kingpin design. I'll see about after KP if we can get it slotted into production because it's definitely needed!


Hope your rads are super clean lol. I just finished some testing and guess what lot of flux in watercool new rads. Thankfully im just experimenting.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> It's honestly been months. The challenge is each part requires significant amounts of time to set up for machining and production. The bracket is designed and we have the material, but right now we're producing Strix and finishing up kingpin design. I'll see about after KP if we can get it slotted into production because it's definitely needed!


I hope you guys make more extenders and adapters. I just ran into more issues with bp fittings lol. Too much movement will loosen the 90 degree g1/4 adapter and leaks happen. I am waiting on order of more ekwb torque 90 (fortunate i ordered more).


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> I hope you guys make more extenders and adapters. I just ran into more issues with bp fittings lol. Too much movement will loosen the 90 degree g1/4 adapter and leaks happen. I am waiting on order of more ekwb torque 90 (fortunate i ordered more).


Definitely! We have our extenders available very soon, they're being manufactured and could be at nickel plating right now. I don't remember off the top of my head what models we'll have at first (female - female, male - female, 25mm, 50mm, etc etc). We're also doing 90s and more. 

We won't have a rotary 90 for a little bit, we have it designed but need to do even more, because we're not really a fan of how rotaries are typically done. 

Also, all these fittings will be nickel (either shiny or satin), because we can't anodize brass and copper. 

Here's a question: does anyone want raw copper or raw brass finish? Anyone interested in a line of pure copper fittings, rather than brass and, ahem, mystery brass?


----------



## Optimus WC

Kana Chan said:


> View attachment 2515318
> 
> Any chance for direct die cooling of ram sticks? ( double sided too? ) in the future? It looks like those settings could be ran daily?


Forgot to reply to this -- chances are we won't, very few requests for watercooled ram, and it's not really needed. Maybe they'll make DDR5 insanely hot, who knows, haven't been following, but let me know if cooling DDR5 is gonna be "a thing."


----------



## CluckyTaco

cptclutch said:


> Appreciate it. Got it all mounted and the results are insane. I cut my temps in HALF coming from an old corsair 280mm AIO in push/pull. Sub 50c during an OCCT stress which was sending me well into the 80's and low 90's previously. I'm going to have some fun tuning this now with all this headroom. Aiming for 5.4.


I'm curious what TIM did you use? LM or KPX? I have a 11900k which I plan to direct die in the future.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Definitely! We have our extenders available very soon, they're being manufactured and could be at nickel plating right now. I don't remember off the top of my head what models we'll have at first (female - female, male - female, 25mm, 50mm, etc etc). We're also doing 90s and more.
> 
> We won't have a rotary 90 for a little bit, we have it designed but need to do even more, because we're not really a fan of how rotaries are typically done.
> 
> Also, all these fittings will be nickel (either shiny or satin), because we can't anodize brass and copper.
> 
> Here's a question: does anyone want raw copper or raw brass finish? Anyone interested in a line of pure copper fittings, rather than brass and, ahem, mystery brass?


Nice to know. Your 90 and 90 rotary interest me the most as i just finished testing my parallel loop plan, the number of leaks that sprung was time consuming (some silly errors). None of the current solution out there are designed for the way i did it. Guarantee to sag because there are extenders/adapters/flow splitters used in the process. Fortunate i can test everything with my mo-ra3. Can’t turn on my pc for two days at least (let it dry). I was hoping just to check my next flow meter conductivity results but guess not. That and distilled water cheap (need more).

I will still be interested in extenders - usual colors something to work on when i do major reno in 2022 (your alternative reservoir, lga1700 block, etc).

Also just timing things, should i setup an temporary loop in next two weeks (early july i will get everything else i need) while i wait for your strix block to start shipping


----------



## Recipe7

@ all the Absolute FTW3 WB owners

What is your temp delta when running a full 20-loop round of Port Royal Stress Test?

I'm on the fence in regards to changing my 3090 ftw3 hydrocopper block to an absolute block. My temp delta between gpu core and coolant is 16-17C after a round of the test.


----------



## D-EJ915

Optimus WC said:


> Also, all these fittings will be nickel (either shiny or satin), because we can't anodize brass and copper.
> 
> Here's a question: does anyone want raw copper or raw brass finish? Anyone interested in a line of pure copper fittings, rather than brass and, ahem, mystery brass?


I'm not super up and up on metals but does brass tarnish? I've played brass instruments before and usually they're lacquered.


----------



## Optimus WC

D-EJ915 said:


> I'm not super up and up on metals but does brass tarnish? I've played brass instruments before and usually they're lacquered.


Good question. All copper alloys tarnish, except cupronickel aka nickel silver aka white copper. Those have between 10-30% Nickel metal content (not to be confused with nickel plating). Super hard metals like Monel have 70%+ nickel to 20%+ Cu content, because nickel itself is really hard. We actually made a full signature block out of cupronickel ages ago (in optimus time), which is silverish in color (not copper color) and it looked cool, but wasn't practical. I'll check on it, see how it looks 

BUT -- I believe the alloys tarnish at different rates and in different situations. Copper is barely stable (visually) in normal air. Brass will change color with water spots, not sure about bronze. All can be be polished back to ultra shiny with Brasso or any silverware polishing compound. 

The real reason for copper fittings is the purity of loops. 100% copper only loops hasn't been done before (not including the pumps).


----------



## acoustic

Have you guys thought about doing another run of the Signature V2 flat coldplates that were special run a while back?


----------



## Wihglah

Optimus WC said:


> Forgot to reply to this -- chances are we won't, very few requests for watercooled ram, and it's not really needed. Maybe they'll make DDR5 insanely hot, who knows, haven't been following, but let me know if cooling DDR5 is gonna be "a thing."


I can confirm that ram cooling is more important than a lot of people think. For example, Heavily OC Samsung B-Die usually becomes unstable above 50C, so if you want to push>1.45V through them to get +4000MHz, then extra cooling is required. I was having weird crashes / Warzone Dev Errors and BSODs for about 6 months before I watercooled my Ram. Zero since.


----------



## Optimus WC

acoustic said:


> Have you guys thought about doing another run of the Signature V2 flat coldplates that were special run a while back?


Technically, it's the Signature tops that are flat, the cold plates are all the same (the top makes the bow). 

There was a lot of confusion about the purpose of those blocks, they're really only for lapped IHS cpus. 

Really, we need to take a look at the next IHS from intel and see what the heck they do with the curvature, because it's all over the place these days -- concave, convex, etc etc


----------



## acoustic

Optimus WC said:


> Technically, it's the Signature tops that are flat, the cold plates are all the same (the top makes the bow).
> 
> There was a lot of confusion about the purpose of those blocks, they're really only for lapped IHS cpus.
> 
> Really, we need to take a look at the next IHS from intel and see what the heck they do with the curvature, because it's all over the place these days -- concave, convex, etc etc


Ah I see! Thanks for clarification. I thought those were designed for direct-die.

Yeah, there really seems to be a different bend every time. Convex, concave, left right up down lol


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Technically, it's the Signature tops that are flat, the cold plates are all the same (the top makes the bow).
> 
> There was a lot of confusion about the purpose of those blocks, they're really only for lapped IHS cpus.
> 
> Really, we need to take a look at the next IHS from intel and see what the heck they do with the curvature, because it's all over the place these days -- concave, convex, etc etc


If you ever need someone to test out fittings im willing to try. At one point im going to throw out the remaining bp extenders and 90s (big issue of stuck fittings). I ended up having to make my planned parallel runs less pretty (will need to do same to gpu side once i get your blocks).

Your fittings are the best though.


----------



## acoustic

I wish I had a CaseLabs. Such a perfect design


----------



## JustinThyme

What I’d like to see are VRM coolers for the rampage VI omega and encore. Closed market as no one is making them but bitspower and you loose the OLED display when that’s not necessary. The aquaria chip can be passively cooled. The stock block is huge and works fine, it just takes up a lot of space and crowds the top of the MOBO.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> What I’d like to see are VRM coolers for the rampage VI omega and encore. Closed market as no one is making them but bitspower and you loose the OLED display when that’s not necessary. The aquaria chip can be passively cooled. The stock block is huge and works fine, it just takes up a lot of space and crowds the top of the MOBO.


Aquaria 10gbe ethernet. Next board 10gbe built in intel is my goal


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> If you ever need someone to test out fittings im willing to try. At one point im going to throw out the remaining bp extenders and 90s (big issue of stuck fittings). I ended up having to make my planned parallel runs less pretty (will need to do same to gpu side once i get your blocks).
> 
> Your fittings are the best though.


Sweet build  And good idea to do beta for upcoming specialized fittings with new tech, we want to put those through the paces before release.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Sweet build  And good idea to do beta for upcoming specialized fittings with new tech, we want to put those through the paces before release.


Thanks. I would love to try since likely buying.Kind of fittings mismatch going on there lol


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Aquaria 10gbe ethernet. Next board 10gbe built in intel is my goal


All 3 of the Rampage Vi boards have Aquantia 10GBe already there. Works great. Im wired all 10GBe except FIOS router. Do a DLNA though that to a Netgear nighthawak, leaves there on fiber to 10GB switch in basement with fiber going to NAS then up stairs to via )109GBe over copper to another managed switch behind my desk. Its awsome to see the transfers to and from NAS being bottlenecked by the speed of the drives rather than the network. Average 1GB/S transfer where old days I was lucky to see 200MB/S. Also have a 500GB M.2 SSD as a buffer in NAS with 18 disks with a hybrid raid. It will take a 2 disk failure without a hickup and up to 4 disk failure before its critical. About time to start buying up some 10TB WD red pros. I have all 6TB ATM but the price is coming down and get a better deal buying them from B&H in a 5 pack. Just want to have 5 on hand when the inevitable begins as its common to cook another one or two while rebuilding the array. They have been spinning non stop for better than 5 years now. On dual conversion UPS.


----------



## JustinThyme

On another note got my GPUs back horizontal today and installed the SigV2 Flat for a go. They never said it would solve my issues but I thought it was worth a try as a Blem. Results not worth posting. Already yanked it. First couple of runs it was 5C over anything else Id run on the same set up. So back to the Magnitude with the flat cold plate that isnt quite flat and right back to where I was. I flushed that block but eveidently should have used alcohol or something. All I did was change the block and reorient my GPUs and conductivity went from 98% to my Next flow meter glowing red at 18%!!!. Drain and fill and drain and fill and drain and fill with running 15-20 mins in between and Im back to 100%. My flow rate with all else the same is 320L/Hr on the Optimus block and 337L/Hr on the magnitude. Not huge but a difference of 17L/Hr in flow resistance between the two blocks. So Ive tested about everything under the sun but the TechN. Id give it a go if it wasn't so butt ugly. In the End out of the box the SigV2 and Magnitude are too close to call. Pull the Oring out of the SigV2 and it drops about 1C, put the flat but not so flat cold plate on the Magnitude and it drops about 2C. The foundation I didn't have much luck with but did try it as I had a buttload of points from PPCs and paid next to nothing for it. Id put it on par with the Heatkiller IV pro. The Sig V2 flat just didnt do what Id hoped it would but it wasnt advertised for that. Maybe Ill pop the lid back off my 7900X and get a flat copper IHS for it and give it a go on that, it is advertised for that. Just dont really have a need for the 7900X as Im already running a 99040X on another R6EE with a pair of 1080Tis in my HTPC LOL. The 7900X and 7920X were LCC dies, much smaller than anything else and I dont care what you try to cool it with the challenge is getting the heat off the die and into the liquid. Everything HEDT past those two have all been HCC dies. Also pulled 480GB Intel 905P U2 drive after cloning it over to 980GB 905P AIC that I got a sweet deal on (paid less than I did for the U2) and dont have to use an AIC adapter anymore. That was one thing I was torn on with the Omega Vs the Encore. Omega still has a U2 port where for some reason they decided to nix the U2 on the Encore and add two more sata ports. Im like Wut da fut doi I need more sata ports for. Already using 6 of them and thats too many with a 1TB Samsung SSD in each and two more samsung M.2s under the hood and another pair of M.2 Intel 905P 380GB in the DIMM.2. Ive got enough storage onboard to gag a maggot then a ton on the NAS too that actually pulls files faster over the 10GBe than a local single sata SSD so I raided them all up. Two arrays of 3.

One strep closer to adding the MORA3 420 to the loop and I can see my start, flex key. safe boot and BIOS switch buttons again!!/ The vertical mount is gorgeous, just not practical when it blocks all your PCIE slots. I/O is in its slot. Now just to pull the 480, move the 420 down to the bottom, all fans pulling in on the top across the VRMS and exhausting out a 360 in the front and the 420 will be isolated all by itself in the basement with a solid cover separating flow. May even get one of the horizontal distros for the Phanteks Enthoo elite. Provides solid barried and easier pass though to the basement.


----------



## Section31

Good news is so far as test goes loop is clean. Hopefully that means the brass tubing was the ultimate source of the gunk


----------



## acoustic

Hey, what's the ETA for STRIX blocks? I snagged a 3080TI Strix yesterday at Microcenter. Went in for fittings, walked out with a LOT more LOL. Grabbed an EK block (Microcenter had it all) for now as I'm tired of waiting to build my loop. I'm expecting the EK block to disappoint the hell out of me, and then I'll end up swapping to yours.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> If you ever need someone to test out fittings im willing to try. At one point im going to throw out the remaining bp extenders and 90s (big issue of stuck fittings). I ended up having to make my planned parallel runs less pretty (will need to do same to gpu side once i get your blocks).
> 
> Your fittings are the best though.
> 
> View attachment 2515491
> 
> View attachment 2515492
> 
> View attachment 2515498


Spotted the Mayhems XTR in white on one of these pics. How do you like it?


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Spotted the Mayhems XTR in white on one of these pics. How do you like it?


Haven't used it yet. Waiting for Optimus Block and stable build before i use the expensive liquid. Distilled Water for now.


----------



## cptclutch

I'm running white XTR in my loop and seems good so far. My temps are very low, not sure if thats in anyway connected to the fluid but overall I'm happy with it so far.

Also is there any good strategy for catching a blemish FTW3 block? I'm on the EVGA queue and have at least a few weeks so figured I'd try to get one of those beforehand.


----------



## LiquidHaus

So who's gonna get the EVGA Dark X570S?


----------



## sakete

LiquidHaus said:


> So who's gonna get the EVGA Dark X570S?


Seems a little late to be releasing a X570/AM4 mobo when AM4 is essentially EOL and Zen 4 should come out in Q1 I believe?


----------



## LiquidHaus

sakete said:


> Seems a little late to be releasing a X570/AM4 mobo when AM4 is essentially EOL and Zen 4 should come out in Q1 I believe?


EVGA has never cared about that. Them releasing a near old gen chipset board is nothing new lol


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> EVGA has never cared about that. Them releasing a near old gen chipset board is nothing new lol


I'm actually very happy with my Dark Hero, tyvm. 

But yes, a day late and a dollar short. Maybe when they release the x670, unless Intel happens to pull a rabbit out of the hat come that time.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> So who's gonna get the EVGA Dark X570S?


I am after alderlake at this point. Kind of done with ryzen at this point

In terms of rad performance i can’t really notice much except my flow is taking big hit., CPU Temps little higher but water loop remains steady could be bad thermal paste application maybe. Haven’t turned back on auto oc or pbo yet. Mo-Ra3 main cause of restrictions though.


----------



## criskoe

Lian Li's Digital expo is in a few hours... Hope they have some more info on the V3000+. Like a possible release date... LOL. One can hope right?


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Lian Li's Digital expo is in a few hours... Hope they have some more info on the V3000+. Like a possible release date... LOL. One can hope right?


Hope so but i wouldn’t expect it to be in stock in canada till end of year etc if any. Newegg canada likely first one to get them. 

After finishing my caselabs s8 up, i probably won’t go for one myself.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Forgot to reply to this -- chances are we won't, very few requests for watercooled ram, and it's not really needed. Maybe they'll make DDR5 insanely hot, who knows, haven't been following, but let me know if cooling DDR5 is gonna be "a thing."


Little suggestion for fittings but from my experience these are really useful fitting i have found (can make it at 90) or use as flow splitter fittings.









EK-Quantum Torque Rotary T - Black Nickel


EK-Quantum Torque Angled T - Black Nickel is a revolvable T adapter fitting with G1/4




www.ekwb.com


----------



## sakete

That Lian Li V3000+ case looks awesome. I think I might want to swap out my crappy Phanteks Enthoo 719 for that.

$399 in November.

Here a detailed overview:


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> That Lian Li V3000+ case looks awesome. I think I might want to swap out my crappy Phanteks Enthoo 719 for that.
> 
> $399 in November.
> 
> Here a detailed overview:


Better price than thought. Im leaning towards keeping my caselabs myself. Really like my modular build in it.


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> That Lian Li V3000+ case looks awesome. I think I might want to swap out my crappy Phanteks Enthoo 719 for that.
> 
> $399 in November.
> 
> Here a detailed overview:


Too small.


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> Too small.


lol.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> Too small.


Sure, with your setup using 100 rads and a million fans 

Big enough for me, and importantly it should have good airflow. My phanteks case just sucks for airflow. I think that could help lower some of my temps.


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> Sure, with your setup using 100 rads and a million fans
> 
> Big enough for me, and importantly it should have good airflow. My phanteks case just sucks for airflow. I think that could help lower some of my temps.


lol I was partially joking. I do think it would look and work better with an extended top. To me it looks cluttered with the radiator mounted under the top like that. I do like that SSD tray and how it's turned so all cabling is out the other side. 
I truly am spoiled by the TH10.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Sure, with your setup using 100 rads and a million fans
> 
> Big enough for me, and importantly it should have good airflow. My phanteks case just sucks for airflow. I think that could help lower some of my temps.


I'm torn myself. i love my caselabs s8 (especially now) but would love to try out the v3000+ but not interested in investing into another build atm.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Sure, with your setup using 100 rads and a million fans
> 
> Big enough for me, and importantly it should have good airflow. My phanteks case just sucks for airflow. I think that could help lower some of my temps.







Nice Design but some changes in materials,etc to control costs. Hence why 400USD. Overall still good case but not caselabs enough in terms of quality. On that note, now that i'm going back to intel alderlake. 

It's going to be interesting how many people target my 5950x/x570 hero dark and 32gb ddr4-4000 (planning to offload at 500-1000Cad). Likely buying CPU and Ram in Asia (use that cash from HK Government) then buy an high end motherboard locally and Optimus CPU Block. Resell the ryzen stuff for 500-1000Cad (dependent on costs of mobo+optimus cpu block).


----------



## Wihglah

Section31 said:


> Nice Design but some changes in materials,etc to control costs. Hence why 400USD. Overall still good case but not caselabs enough in terms of quality. On that note, now that i'm going back to intel alderlake.
> 
> It's going to be interesting how many people target my 5950x/x570 hero dark and 32gb ddr4-4000 (planning to offload at 500-1000Cad). Likely buying CPU and Ram in Asia (use that cash from HK Government) then buy an high end motherboard locally and Optimus CPU Block. Resell the ryzen stuff for 500-1000Cad (dependent on costs of mobo+optimus cpu block).


That is a lot of win. I can see myself getting that. 

3x 480s and 2 360s? Some in push/pull. Nice.


----------



## Section31

Wihglah said:


> That is a lot of win. I can see myself getting that.
> 
> 3x 480s and 2 360s? Some in push/pull. Nice.


I agree on that. Lianli definitely did good job. I don't know if its worth it for existing caselabs owners.


----------



## Bart

Section31 said:


> I agree on that. Lianli definitely did good job. I don't know if its worth it for existing caselabs owners.


I think the CL owner would just have to be bored, LOL! That's the only thing that moves people away from Case Labs if they have one. I have an M8, but it's a big ugly square box. So I also bought a few Dynamic 011 XLs in white, just because they were prettier, smaller, and an easier way to lug around a decently cooled system. This new LianLi case looks good though, just not for me, since I have enough bloody cases, LOL!


----------



## sakete

I will get this Lian Li case and smash my Phanteks case to pieces with a hammer, that's how crappy it is. Bad airflow, very thin sheet metal, flimsy, just not well designed.

(or I'll try to sell it on craiglist for $50).


----------



## Section31

Bart said:


> I think the CL owner would just have to be bored, LOL! That's the only thing that moves people away from Case Labs if they have one. I have an M8, but it's a big ugly square box. So I also bought a few Dynamic 011 XLs in white, just because they were prettier, smaller, and an easier way to lug around a decently cooled system. This new LianLi case looks good though, just not for me, since I have enough bloody cases, LOL!


I did same. Threw out everything but my caselabs.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> Nice Design but some changes in materials,etc to control costs. Hence why 400USD. Overall still good case but not caselabs enough in terms of quality. On that note, now that i'm going back to intel alderlake.
> 
> It's going to be interesting how many people target my 5950x/x570 hero dark and 32gb ddr4-4000 (planning to offload at 500-1000Cad). Likely buying CPU and Ram in Asia (use that cash from HK Government) then buy an high end motherboard locally and Optimus CPU Block. Resell the ryzen stuff for 500-1000Cad (dependent on costs of mobo+optimus cpu block).


That 5950x of yours might tempt me. Might. I probably don't need the power as my 3900X is sufficient for what I do. I'll see where I'm at when you're ready to dump it.

My main issue with AMD is that it just appears to be more finnicky. With Intel, things just seem to be a bit more straightforward. And I'm 100% certain Intel will catch up in the next few years, maybe surpass even.

I should overall probably just put my money towards a better case, more rads and more fans and redo my loop.


----------



## Shawnb99

Bart said:


> I have an M8, but it's a big ugly square box.


She may be big but she's beautiful.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> That 5950x of yours might tempt me. Might. I probably don't need the power as my 3900X is sufficient for what I do. I'll see where I'm at when you're ready to dump it.
> 
> My main issue with AMD is that it just appears to be more finnicky. With Intel, things just seem to be a bit more straightforward. And I'm 100% certain Intel will catch up in the next few years, maybe surpass even.
> 
> I should overall probably just put my money towards a better case, more rads and more fans and redo my loop.


Go heatkiller rads though


----------



## Bart

Shawnb99 said:


> She may be big but she's beautiful.


In terms of function, that she is. It's like having a woman who's perfect in almost every way, but just isn't much of a "looker", LOL!


----------



## Section31

Bart said:


> In terms of function, that she is. It's like having a woman who's perfect in almost every way, but just isn't much of a "looker", LOL!


Caselabs always had functionality part. If i was doing next system i definitely would build in v3000+ but do i really need another rig around. One laptop and one desktop is enough for me. 

I appreciate these lianli cases over its odyssey x though. That thing is looker design but way too out there. I prefer sleeper style yet functional aka caselabs.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> Go heatkiller rads though


Those things will probably be impossible to purchase anywhere, so I'll just get what I can get.

Another reason I want this pandemic to be over with. It's just been disruptive all over the place.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Those things will probably be impossible to purchase anywhere, so I'll just get what I can get.
> 
> Another reason I want this pandemic to be over with. It's just been disruptive all over the place.


Easy. Just buy from watercool.de lol. 500euro order is free shipping. Talk with some of the ocn ppl and get one started.

I might buy more if in future (esp if i do an v3000+ build). Might be 2022 project per say. Setup new build in V3000+ then install meteorlake and hardware in 2023/2024. Hopefully Optimus comes out with rad. Just waiting for better performance rad than hwl/ekwb xe.


----------



## D-EJ915

sakete said:


> That Lian Li V3000+ case looks awesome. I think I might want to swap out my crappy Phanteks Enthoo 719 for that.
> 
> $399 in November.
> 
> Here a detailed overview:


Case is still garbage for me which is a shame, no eeb or xl-atx support in a huge case like that? lol alright.


----------



## HyperMatrix

sakete said:


> Sure, with your setup using 100 rads and a million fans
> 
> Big enough for me, and importantly it should have good airflow. My phanteks case just sucks for airflow. I think that could help lower some of my temps.


The Enthoo 719 is a great case for airflow. You just have to remove the top, front, rear side, and front side panels, as well as the 4 magnetic dust filters on the case.


----------



## Endgame124

V3000+ interests me. I’m using a fractal define 7XL and it’s just not big enough for as much rad as I want - basically maxed at a 420 and a 360.

Might as well build a whole extra loop and keep both.


----------



## Section31

D-EJ915 said:


> Case is still garbage for me which is a shame, no eeb or xl-atx support in a huge case like that? lol alright.


Lol. I have an eeb/xl-atx mobo try and it severely limits what i can do with my case in the front 120.3 flexbay. I would buy atx mobo tray if i could but its no longer available.


----------



## LiquidHaus

"...but it's no longer available."

One more reason why I think it's time you CL owners move on. Ya'll are soo obsessive over them it's insane.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> "...but it's no longer available."
> 
> One more reason why I think it's time you CL owners move on. Ya'll are soo obsessive over them it's insane.


Its when we find right case to move onto. V3000+ is interesting but its more for next build based on Optimus Rads versus watercool ones for me.

I just bought them so i rather use it for at least 1-2years. Next build is all Optimus anyways. I plan on doing internal loop with dual d5 setup and triple 480mm if its in v3000+. 

I am more going to start looking once i can go to Asia on doing modding on my caselabs s8. Modernize it as i have more ideas. I personally really like horizontal mobo layout myself.


----------



## Section31

So i finally got Dewire fan solution and it's not the be it end to fan cable management. In some circumstances, Darkside Triple Fan/Quad Fan Splitter is better solution still. The other thing to note is do not use the included double sided tape, its almost an permanent stuck on solution if you use it. I had to destroy the tape just to correct the positioning of the dewire fan solution. Ended up using double sided velcro instead.


----------



## acoustic

OK, so my first custom loop is all set up, and man it works ****ing great. I spent close to 12hours all together (with help from my dad, who has a hard-line loop), realized I needed a few more fittings so an hour drive to Microcenter, also realized I ordered the wrong bracket to mount my Heatkiller rad, so currently it's rigged ghetto as **** LOL, but it's working, and the performance is phenomenal. I would have never expected the temps to be so good with the fans at only 1100-1200rpm. This is extremely, extremely impressive. The Rockitcool direct-die mount with the Heatkiller IV worked AMAZING and the temps are NUTS! Compared to the direct-die with my EVGA 360 AIO, I went from 80-85c max during RealBench (with Core4+Core6 touching 89-92c .. they're my hottest cores always) to 58-60c max with Core4+Core6 topping at 62-64c. This is with the loop haven't only ran about 2-3 hours, so I'm sure there's a few air bubbles going around. I tilted and moved the case a ton, and I'll leave the D5 pump set to max for a few days.

I also made an oopsie, and my MSI Z490 ACE does not have a water temp sensor connection. The Bitspower sensor I purchased is a 2-pin that I can't use now because there's no where to plug it in. I'll need to order something that works in-line. I know everyone recommends the Aquacomputer High Flow NEXT, but it's impossible to find state-side, and I don't need enough stuff to justify the shipping costs.

I'm impressed with the EK block on my 3080TI. I was extremely meticulous putting it together (do it right one time, don't have to do it again), used KPx on the core and the EK thermal pads, and the temps are pretty great IMO. I hit 45c max with sustained loads @ 450w, and in benching I'm hitting max of 38-39c. It's very, very good for what I expected. The backplate was a ***** to get on with the stacked pads, but the amount of thermal pads on the backplate means it's actually doing something rather than just trapping heat.


----------



## CluckyTaco

acoustic said:


> The Rockitcool direct-die mount with the Heatkiller IV worked AMAZING and the temps are NUTS! Compared to the direct-die with my EVGA 360 AIO, I went from 80-85c max during RealBench (with Core4+Core6 touching 89-92c .. they're my hottest cores always) to 58-60c max with Core4+Core6 topping at 62-64c.


Did you use KPX or LM for your CPU direct-die?


----------



## acoustic

LM on CPU, KPx on GPU.


----------



## CluckyTaco

acoustic said:


> LM on CPU, KPx on GPU.


Thanks. Those temp drops are insane .


----------



## acoustic

CluckyTaco said:


> Thanks. Those temp drops are insane .


Yep. It's very 1:1; I was running direct-die with the same LM with the EVGA AIO. The GPU was also massive, but not really fair. My 3080FTW3 was on the Hybrid cooler on a 450watt BIOS, I would see 65-66c max during sustained loads. With the 3080TI STRIX on 450watt BIOS, seeing 45c max with fans at 1200rpm.

It's so silent. The only thing you can hear is the D5 going ape-**** at 4850rpm. After a few days of running, I'll lower the speed a bit. I will have to tear the loop down to get a water temp sensor (maybe flow sensor combined, if I can find one) and fix the mounting on my Heatkiller res. No one has had stock stateside, but I just found them on Aquatuning, so sweet! Still getting hammered for $55 in shipping .. lol

Has anyone ran Noctua A12x25 on a 3-way splitter PWM? I'm using the 2-way splitters that they come with right now, but I'm running out of fan connectors on the mobo, lol.


----------



## Section31

Update on dewire. The dewire is wired in manor that io1 corresponds to 1,3,5 header and io2 corresponds to 2,4,6


----------



## Keith Myers

acoustic said:


> Yep. It's very 1:1; I was running direct-die with the same LM with the EVGA AIO. The GPU was also massive, but not really fair. My 3080FTW3 was on the Hybrid cooler on a 450watt BIOS, I would see 65-66c max during sustained loads. With the 3080TI STRIX on 450watt BIOS, seeing 45c max with fans at 1200rpm.
> 
> It's so silent. The only thing you can hear is the D5 going ape-**** at 4850rpm. After a few days of running, I'll lower the speed a bit. I will have to tear the loop down to get a water temp sensor (maybe flow sensor combined, if I can find one) and fix the mounting on my Heatkiller res. No one has had stock stateside, but I just found them on Aquatuning, so sweet! Still getting hammered for $55 in shipping .. lol
> 
> Has anyone ran Noctua A12x25 on a 3-way splitter PWM? I'm using the 2-way splitters that they come with right now, but I'm running out of fan connectors on the mobo, lol.


I use a ton of these 3-way splitters on my Noctua NF-A12x25 fans on my rads. Good quality and works great for PWM control of all fans.
PWM Fan Splitter Adapter Cable Sleeved Braided Y Splitter Computer PC 4 Pin Fan Extension Power Cable 1 to 3 Converter 10 inches (2 Pack)


----------



## acoustic

Keith Myers said:


> I use a ton of these 3-way splitters on my Noctua NF-A12x25 fans on my rads. Good quality and works great for PWM control of all fans.
> PWM Fan Splitter Adapter Cable Sleeved Braided Y Splitter Computer PC 4 Pin Fan Extension Power Cable 1 to 3 Converter 10 inches (2 Pack)


Thanks for the recommend! Did some digging and the A12x25 is only 0.14a max, and every fan header on a mobo like the Z490 ACE should be minimum of 1a, so I ordered some CableMatters 3-way splitters about 30minutes ago. I'll be able to separate both rads and my 3 free flowing fans now, which will be great, while also having a fan header or two left over. I also ordered a Aquacomputer High Flow Next .. so I'm stoked. I'll likely put it on the outlet of the reservoir going to the CPU. I have a nice middle spot that it should work well in. I didn't think about the fact that I'm using soft-tubing, so the weight of the in-line sensor may make the tubing sag.

Hmm!


----------



## Keith Myers

Same thing with my inline flow/temp sensor. The line sags a bit. So ghetto velcro strap to the the fan cables above it so the readout is level.


----------



## Wihglah

acoustic said:


> Thanks for the recommend! Did some digging and the A12x25 is only 0.14a max, and every fan header on a mobo like the Z490 ACE should be minimum of 1a, so I ordered some CableMatters 3-way splitters about 30minutes ago. I'll be able to separate both rads and my 3 free flowing fans now, which will be great, while also having a fan header or two left over. I also ordered a Aquacomputer High Flow Next .. so I'm stoked. I'll likely put it on the outlet of the reservoir going to the CPU. I have a nice middle spot that it should work well in. I didn't think about the fact that I'm using soft-tubing, so the weight of the in-line sensor may make the tubing sag.
> 
> Hmm!


Yeah - you can defo run 3x A12x25s off one header.

I have 6 NF-F12s on one header. They use even less. You do have to be careful on splitters though - you can end up with weird PWM effects when you have 3 daisy chained.


----------



## acoustic

Keith Myers said:


> Same thing with my inline flow/temp sensor. The line sags a bit. So ghetto velcro strap to the the fan cables above it so the readout is level.


Hah! Can't be worse than my Heatkiller Tube that's held up by 2 zip-ties right now LOL.



Wihglah said:


> Yeah - you can defo run 3x A12x25s off one header.
> 
> I have 6 NF-F12s on one header. They use even less. You do have to be careful on splitters though - you can end up with weird PWM effects when you have 3 daisy chained.


Thanks for the info. Currently I'm using the supplied Noctua stuff; The Y-Splitter the Noctua extension on each end of the Y. I already see a little weirdness where the fans take a bit to respond to speed control. If I go in the BIOS and set them to 100%, it'll take about a minute or so for them to ramp up. Hopefully it doesn't get any worse than that; slowly ramping up doesn't matter to me much.


----------



## Wihglah

acoustic said:


> I already see a little weirdness where the fans take a bit to respond to speed control. If I go in the BIOS and set them to 100%, it'll take about a minute or so for them to ramp up. Hopefully it doesn't get any worse than that; slowly ramping up doesn't matter to me much.


I have seen that, Also - fans set to 40% actually running at 100% or not running at all.


----------



## Section31

So after getting dewire cable management system to work, the effect is not bad. I mounted on fans (with velcro) versus radiator. However i still needed to cable manage the fan cables and for some fans needed cable extensions to route them cleanly.


----------



## acoustic

I'm so jelly of you CaseLabs guys _cries in poor_


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I'm so jelly of you CaseLabs guys _cries in poor_


Still not easy to build but it was fun process. The end is kind of dull. This is probably the best one done in terms of optics and ease of maintenance


----------



## Wihglah

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2516003
> View attachment 2516006
> View attachment 2516004
> View attachment 2516005
> 
> 
> So after getting dewire cable management system to work, the effect is not bad. I mounted on fans (with velcro) versus radiator. However i still needed to cable manage the fan cables and for some fans needed cable extensions to route them cleanly.


For me the impressive point is the dedication to Noctua A12x25s.

Some of mine:


----------



## Section31

Wihglah said:


> For me the impressive point is the dedication to Noctua A12x25s.
> 
> Some of mine:


They are one of top fans and you can’t throw out 30usd fans like that.


----------



## Shawnb99

Wihglah said:


> For me the impressive point is the dedication to Noctua A12x25s.


I have 40 of them in my build atm. Am waiting on the 140mm models and I'll upgrade my 16 Industrial ones as well. 64 in total fans, all Noctua's.


----------



## Biggu

those with a 5950x with the optimus AM4 block what are your temps? I cant get over how hot this thing runs constantly. The loop is a d5 pump, optimus AM4 block, 480 Aquacomputer ut60, Noctua industrial in a push/pull and my idle temps are always 43-47c ish with spikes up to 57-60c. CPU water temp is around 29-30c, fans keep at 800 rpm and generally 237 LPH of flow. ive repasted the cpu block numerious times and its on thin but it still seems high at idle.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> those with a 5950x with the optimus AM4 block what are your temps? I cant get over how hot this thing runs constantly. The loop is a d5 pump, optimus AM4 block, 480 Aquacomputer ut60, Noctua industrial in a push/pull and my idle temps are always 43-47c ish with spikes up to 57-60c. CPU water temp is around 29-30c, fans keep at 800 rpm and generally 237 LPH of flow. ive repasted the cpu block numerious times and its on thin but it still seems high at idle.


At load its high 60s to low 70s.


----------



## sakete

HyperMatrix said:


> The Enthoo 719 is a great case for airflow. You just have to remove the top, front, rear side, and front side panels, as well as the 4 magnetic dust filters on the case.


Lol!


----------



## Wihglah

Shawnb99 said:


> I have 40 of them in my build atm. Am waiting on the 140mm models and I'll upgrade my 16 Industrial ones as well. 64 in total fans, all Noctua's.




Only 22 Noctuas in my rig, Jebus they get expensive.

I have a very rough plan for a new build with 34 though. 

Oh and a 140mm Corsair case fan.


----------



## Endgame124

Section31 said:


> At load its high 60s to low 70s.


Stock or PBO? I end up around 77c with PBO enabled -using a thermochill 120.3 from back in the day and a HW labs 420x flow. Airflow in the define 7 XL pretty much sucks though, as the temp drops about 5c if I pull the front and top panels off.


----------



## Keith Myers

Biggu said:


> those with a 5950x with the optimus AM4 block what are your temps? I cant get over how hot this thing runs constantly. The loop is a d5 pump, optimus AM4 block, 480 Aquacomputer ut60, Noctua industrial in a push/pull and my idle temps are always 43-47c ish with spikes up to 57-60c. CPU water temp is around 29-30c, fans keep at 800 rpm and generally 237 LPH of flow. ive repasted the cpu block numerious times and its on thin but it still seems high at idle.


Currently sitting at 75-80° C. at 4350Mhz all-core BOINC load. Idles at 35° C. Water temp under load at 34-35° C. Room temp at 27° C. Noctua A12x25's on a 360mm X 60mm rad in push-pull.


----------



## Section31

Endgame124 said:


> Stock or PBO? I end up around 77c with PBO enabled -using a thermochill 120.3 from back in the day and a HW labs 420x flow. Airflow in the define 7 XL pretty much sucks though, as the temp drops about 5c if I pull the front and top panels off.


Don't bother with PBO - Manual OC at 4.6ghz at 1.25volts.


----------



## Shawnb99

Wihglah said:


> Only 22 Noctuas in my rig, Jebus they get expensive.


That they do. I've spent around $2500 CDN or so on them


----------



## Biggu

Ok, I figured out why it seemed like it was high. I was using the incorrect datasource for my aquaero sensor. I was using the Core when I believe I should have been using CCDs Average. Now that looks more like what I would expect. Idle around 32-33c ambient room temp is normally 23-24c. I do still need to run a load test to see what it looks like.


----------



## acoustic

At first I thought you were saying your ambient room temp was 32-33c. I was about to ask if you live in a furnace LOL .. I need this coffee to kick in.

I let it get warm in my basement last night (turned AC off for most of the day to give it a rest, It's been on non-stop with that damn heat-wave we got hit with the last few days) and I hit 50c on the GPU playing Hell Let Loose. I have no idea what my water temp is, but I'm pretty happy with it. I have both rads on Intake with the side fans as intake as well; I did feel some warmth on the glass on the top and bottom (where the rads are) so I might kick the exhaust fan up a little bit. I've got it around 850rpm. I have an extra A12x25. Currently I have an S12A on the back.. might be worth swapping it out.


----------



## Biggu

@Optimus WC

Can I just say I really dislike on your site how it pops up saying what item X person purchased. Normally when I see sites that do this I do not buy from them.

Also I think there is a bug in this because it popped up and told me a persons name, and address.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Can I just say I really dislike on your site how it pops up saying what item X person purchased. Normally when I see sites that do this I do not buy from them.
> 
> Also I think there is a bug in this because it popped up and told me a persons name, and address.


I see that on keyboard sites that do groupbuy. Super common marketing. Marketing gone really low now.


----------



## Shawnb99

acoustic said:


> At first I thought you were saying your ambient room temp was 32-33c.


Ambient has only been around 34-36 the last week in my room. Nice cool 29 in here now. This will be my average if not in the low 30's all summer. I'll be lucky to see it go below 26 until September. I badly need AC.


----------



## tbrown7552

Biggu said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Can I just say I really dislike on your site how it pops up saying what item X person purchased. Normally when I see sites that do this I do not buy from them.
> 
> Also I think there is a bug in this because it popped up and told me a persons name, and address.


This is a common feature of Shopify which is a widely used ecommerce suite. It just shows a First name, Last Initial and City/State. It doesnt give the address.


----------



## Biggu

tbrown7552 said:


> This is a common feature of Shopify which is a widely used ecommerce suite. It just shows a First name, Last Initial and City/State. It doesnt give the address.


Yup, Absolutely hate that "feature" I know it's not supposed to say the address that's why I said it's a bug. I took a screen shot of it so I can send it to Optimus if they need it.


----------



## Section31

If anyone still looking for 3090 Kingpin, I have an friend with BNIB Kingpin + Hydrocarbon Block. The item is located in Vancouver (his parents still live in Vancouver) but the individual themselves is in Hong Kong. All dealing would have to be through whatsapp.


----------



## dwolvin

Hydrocopper?


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Hydrocopper?


The kingpin model with the evga waterblock (not aio)


----------



## dwolvin

Gotcha- you got autocorrected to Hydrocarbon, and I thought there was a waterblock manufacturer I didn't know and couldn't find.


----------



## cptclutch

I know Optimus is about the minimalistic look, but I have to say the block looks great with some lights as well.


----------



## LiquidHaus

cptclutch said:


> I know Optimus is about the minimalistic look, but I have to say the block looks great with some lights as well.


Agreed!


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Agreed!


I have lianli fans acting as light source for me. Titan rigs sale was nice. Picked up some cables with carbon white, liquid diamond and grand bleu.

60cm molex power
30cm sata power
40cm 24pin
60cm 8pin pcie


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Agreed!


If i save enough would love to collaborate with you on project build


----------



## Tived

Probably not the best images but the CPU block is actually beautiful and simple looking (yes, no led!)


----------



## Section31

Very nicely done. Shows your effort in cabling and making clean runs. We appreciate even builds like yours. Great use of those alphacool rads enclosures.


----------



## Tived

Section31 said:


> Very nicely done. Shows your effort in cabling and making clean runs. We appreciate even builds like yours. Great use of those alphacool rads enclosures.


Thank you! My first attempt


----------



## chibi

@Section31 - how are the Heatkiller rads? Are they as clean and solder/flux free as Jakob mentioned? Or are they just like any other rads and a deep clean is required? If so, then I'll just keep and use my GTX's.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> @Section31 - how are the Heatkiller rads? Are they as clean and solder/flux free as Jakob mentioned? Or are they just like any other rads and a deep clean is required? If so, then I'll just keep and use my GTX's.


You still need to flush them with distilled water. However, they are still 100% worth the investment.


----------



## Shawnb99

No radiator is ever clean no matter what they keep claiming. You ALWAYS have to flush and will ALWAYS find crap left over.


----------



## acoustic

I cleaned my 2x 360-L with distilled .. nothing came out. Seemed very clean.


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> You still need to flush them with distilled water. However, they are still 100% worth the investment.


Good to know, thx.



Shawnb99 said:


> No radiator is ever clean no matter what they keep claiming. You ALWAYS have to flush and will ALWAYS find crap left over.


All the more reason to look forward to Optimus rads, hopefully.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I cleaned my 2x 360-L with distilled .. nothing came out. Seemed very clean.


Cleaner than the hardwarelabs. You only find out there's issue when your blocks get dirty (Optimus tends to get particles stuck to them). I really don't know how much of an role, the hwl rads played as its hard to tell when the brass tubing was the main cause of my issue.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Cleaner than the hardwarelabs. You only find out there's issue when your blocks get dirty (Optimus tends to get particles stuck to them). I really don't know how much of an role, the hwl rads played as its hard to tell when the brass tubing was the main cause of my issue.


I can't say I have anything to compare my rads to since it was my first build. I've been enjoying the **** out of this thing too


----------



## JustinThyme

acoustic said:


> I cleaned my 2x 360-L with distilled .. nothing came out. Seemed very clean.


DW wont necessarily do it. My tried and true method that some think Im a nut job is Coca Cola (learned this cleaning brass in the USN). Lay rad on its back in a sink or somewhere that its not going to make a mess and fill it with as much coca cola as you can. Short tubes sticking up are even better. Ive rinsed them out with DW and got nothing then gave them the Coca Cola treatment and when I woke up the next morning the green gunk that bubbled out on its own was unnerving. Then flush the crap out of it with hot tap water for several minutes and more gunk comes out. Then fill 2/3 of the way with DW and slosh around and dump a few time and when you look in the ports its clean and shiny. I think its the citric acid that does the trick and the bubbling action to work it out. 

Like Shawn said, there isnt a rad on the market that Ive seen that I wasnt able to get goop out of no matter how much they claim they are cleaned and flushed at the factory. The lease was the MORA3 420, the worst was an EK XE 480 that are all made in China. That tidbit straight from the mouth of an EK rep. Everything else is made in house but their rads.


----------



## Keith Myers

JustinThyme said:


> DW wont necessarily do it. My tried and true method that some think Im a nut job is Coca Cola (learned this cleaning brass in the USN). Lay rad on its back in a sink or somewhere that its not going to make a mess and fill it with as much coca cola as you can. Short tubes sticking up are even better. Ive rinsed them out with DW and got nothing then gave them the Coca Cola treatment and when I woke up the next morning the green gunk that bubbled out on its own was unnerving. Then flush the crap out of it with hot tap water for several minutes and more gunk comes out. Then fill 2/3 of the way with DW and slosh around and dump a few time and when you look in the ports its clean and shiny. I think its the citric acid that does the trick and the bubbling action to work it out.
> 
> Like Shawn said, there isnt a rad on the market that Ive seen that I wasnt able to get goop out of no matter how much they claim they are cleaned and flushed at the factory. The lease was the MORA3 420, the worst was an EK XE 480 that are all made in China. That tidbit straight from the mouth of an EK rep. Everything else is made in house but their rads.


It's the phosphoric acid, not the citric acid that is the corrosive cleaner for copper and brass. Well, both help, but phosphoric acid is the stronger of the two.


----------



## blitzraider

JustinThyme said:


> DW wont necessarily do it. My tried and true method that some think Im a nut job is Coca Cola (learned this cleaning brass in the USN). Lay rad on its back in a sink or somewhere that its not going to make a mess and fill it with as much coca cola as you can. Short tubes sticking up are even better. Ive rinsed them out with DW and got nothing then gave them the Coca Cola treatment and when I woke up the next morning the green gunk that bubbled out on its own was unnerving. Then flush the crap out of it with hot tap water for several minutes and more gunk comes out. Then fill 2/3 of the way with DW and slosh around and dump a few time and when you look in the ports its clean and shiny. I think its the citric acid that does the trick and the bubbling action to work it out.
> 
> Like Shawn said, there isnt a rad on the market that Ive seen that I wasnt able to get goop out of no matter how much they claim they are cleaned and flushed at the factory. The lease was the MORA3 420, the worst was an EK XE 480 that are all made in China. That tidbit straight from the mouth of an EK rep. Everything else is made in house but their rads.


I just use vinegar, is that not as strong?


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> I have lianli fans acting as light source for me. Titan rigs sale was nice. Picked up some cables with carbon white, liquid diamond and grand bleu.
> 
> 60cm molex power
> 30cm sata power
> 40cm 24pin
> 60cm 8pin pcie


Man GrandBleu is such a good color. I used the sleving to make a USB cable for my Keyboard and loved the color so much I changed the color scheme in my build to grandbleu.


----------



## Keith Myers

blitzraider said:


> I just use vinegar, is that not as strong?


No, white vinegar at typical retail 5% solution strength is the lowest of the mild acids such as phosphoric acid, citric acid and vinegar (acetic acid).


----------



## Section31

Keith Myers said:


> No, white vinegar at typical retail 5% solution strength is the lowest of the mild acids such as phosphoric acid, citric acid and vinegar (acetic acid).


I ain’t using brass tubing again thats for sure. It stained the radiator pretty bad.


----------



## iamjanco

@Optimus WC Hey, good folks at Optimus... I'm probably finally going to get a notify from EVGA this week to purchase their Hydro Copper block for a Kingpin 3090. If you're out there reading this, any chance you could give me a reasonable estimate of how far off your block for that Kingpin is? I'd rather not throw another $350 (including tax plus shipping) away if I can avoid it, but if you feel it will still be many months (e.g., 4-6 or more) before your block comes to market, I'll probably have to do that just to be on the safe side of having a block that will fit in a case.

TIA!


----------



## acoustic

iamjanco said:


> @Optimus WC Hey, good folks at Optimus... I'm probably finally going to get a notify from EVGA today to purchase their Hydro Copper block for a Kingpin 3090. If you're out there reading this, any chance you could give me a reasonable estimate of how far off your block for that Kingpin? I'd rather not throw another $350 (including tax plus shipping) away if I can avoid it, but if you feel it will still be many months (e.g., 4-6 or more) before your block comes to market, I'll probably have to do that just to be on the safe side of having a block that will fit in a case.
> 
> TIA!


Grats on your (hopefully) notify!


----------



## iamjanco

^Thanks!


----------



## CluckyTaco

@Optimus WC Is there an allen key included with the foundation block? I'm having to do maintenance on my Intel foundation block and none of my allen keys work. I can sorta unscrew them but due to the size difference I'm afraid of stripping the screws.

Edit: One of my allen key almost fits but it slips so there is a possibility of stripping the screw head.


----------



## dwolvin

CluckyTaco said:


> @Optimus WC Is there an allen key included with the foundation block? I'm having to do maintenance on my Intel foundation block and none of my allen keys work. I can sorta unscrew them but due to the size difference I'm afraid of stripping the screws.
> 
> Edit: One of my allen key almost fits but it slips so there is a possibility of stripping the screw head.


Are you using Metric? I also have had good luck trying a torx and finding one that fits snugly... Also, are you related to UltraTaco?


----------



## asdf893

iamjanco said:


> @Optimus WC Hey, good folks at Optimus... I'm probably finally going to get a notify from EVGA this week to purchase their Hydro Copper block for a Kingpin 3090. If you're out there reading this, any chance you could give me a reasonable estimate of how far off your block for that Kingpin is? I'd rather not throw another $350 (including tax plus shipping) away if I can avoid it, but if you feel it will still be many months (e.g., 4-6 or more) before your block comes to market, I'll probably have to do that just to be on the safe side of having a block that will fit in a case.
> 
> TIA!


I just got my kingpin waterblock notify. If I were you I wouldn't hold your breath on the optimus block. On the other hand $350 for an inferior block is pretty annoying.


----------



## CluckyTaco

dwolvin said:


> Are you using Metric? I also have had good luck trying a torx and finding one that fits snugly... Also, are you related to UltraTaco?


Yeah I'm using metric I think. I have a few iFixit kits lying around so whatever standard they are. Which makes me think that Optimus because Optimus is using the other standard. Also no particular relation to UltraTaco. I just have a liking to Chick'n Tacos 😄.


----------



## dwolvin

Fair enough! And one of my best purchases has been a pair of switchblade style allen sets- one in imperial and one in metric, it's crazy how many instances I have found of an allen bolt not being the type I thought it was.


----------



## iamjanco

asdf893 said:


> I just got my kingpin waterblock notify. If I were you I wouldn't hold your breath on the optimus block. On the other hand $350 for an inferior block is pretty annoying.


I got my notify as well and bought it just in case. Agreed about the annoyance though.


----------



## Section31

You can always resell it. The kingpin biggest issue is the bulk of the us buyers are likely to either use it or upgrade to Optimus Block.


----------



## JustinThyme

Keith Myers said:


> It's the phosphoric acid, not the citric acid that is the corrosive cleaner for copper and brass. Well, both help, but phosphoric acid is the stronger of the two.


Dont know which one it is but it WORKS!!! Just soak an old oxidized penny in it overnight and watch what happens. 
Just have to flush the crap out after with hot tap water. I have a jig I made up from an aquarium gravel cleaner kit. Just hook that up to the faucet in my deep sink in the laundry room and cut the hot water on and leave it running for several minutes to wash out the rest of the goop and the remnants of the Coca Cola. Then the DW slosh and pour out several times before putting it in the system. I've tried White vinegar and it didn't work well. Better than nothing I suppose. Mayhems is a bit abusive IMO. Not too excited about using something that requires gloves and safety goggles.


----------



## blitzraider

JustinThyme said:


> Dont know which one it is but it WORKS!!! Just soak an old oxidized penny in it overnight and watch what happens.
> Just have to flush the crap out after with hot tap water. I have a jig I made up from an aquarium gravel cleaner kit. Just hook that up to the faucet in my deep sink in the laundry room and cut the hot water on and leave it running for several minutes to wash out the rest of the goop and the remnants of the Coca Cola. Then the DW slosh and pour out several times before putting it in the system. I've tried White vinegar and it didn't work well. Better than nothing I suppose. Mayhems is a bit abusive IMO. Not too excited about using something that requires gloves and safety goggles.


I want to try this next time, I'm just scared I leave some coke inside. I don't have a dedicated set up so I only rinsed with hot water the last time I used vinegar.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Section31 said:


> If i save enough would love to collaborate with you on project build


Let's do it man!

Also, can we PLEASE get a render of the KPE? @Optimus WC


----------



## Tived

LiquidHaus said:


> Let's do it man!
> 
> Also, can we PLEASE get a render of the KPE? @Optimus WC


Great photos on your website 👍


----------



## dwolvin

Only the FTW, not the KPE.


----------



## chibi

LiquidHaus said:


> Let's do it man!
> 
> Also, can we PLEASE get a render of the KPE? @Optimus WC


Local BC collab with LiquidHaus?! I'm looking forward to it


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Local BC collab with LiquidHaus?! I'm looking forward to it


Lot of bc ppl here in this thread i ain’t joking


----------



## JustinThyme

blitzraider said:


> I want to try this next time, I'm just scared I leave some coke inside. I don't have a dedicated set up so I only rinsed with hot water the last time I used vinegar.


Doesnt really take a dedicated set up. Before I had the brainstorm with the fish tank gravel cleaner I just held put a barb in one end of the rad with a piece of flex tuning and held it to the faucet while the hot water was rinsing. had an oven mitt on so I didn't scorch my digits.


----------



## CluckyTaco

Hey wise folk of this thread. So I've rinsed and rinsed my radiator with vinegar and boiling distilled water and all I got was blue fluid. I further rinsed my radiator with DW and nothing, no flakes nothing. I ran my loop outside of my case for sanity checks and lo and behold my foundation block catches rust. How can I clean this cold plate? I've already used toothpaste and DW and isopropyl alcohol. How screwed am I? Also before anyone asks here is my loop setup,

Aquacomputer Ultitube D5 Pro, Optimus Intel Foundation block, EKWB 1080Ti Nickel block, HWL GTX 580 rad, Aquacomputer water filter and all Alphacool fittings with Koolance QD3s for quick troubleshooting.

Nothing but DW in the loop for the past 2 days. I've also ordered a replacement cold plate from optimus since I dug around the interwebs and couldn't find a miracle solution. I'm pretty sure I have an optimus filter now. Also tonight I'm going to try @JustinThyme suggestion and go for the Coca-Cola method on my radiator as I've opened up everything and nothing looks off except the radiator. It's always the radiator right 🙃?

Edit: I did not risk cleaning the cold plate with vinegar since it will etch the plating which is obviously a bad idea. I don't have the picture of the rust covered block since I panicked and instantly cleaned that gunk off the plate and I only have black streaks on the cold plate as you can see in the picture.


----------



## Keith Myers

CluckyTaco said:


> Hey wise folk of this thread. So I've rinsed and rinsed my radiator with vinegar and boiling distilled water and all I got was blue fluid. I further rinsed my radiator with DW and nothing, no flakes nothing. I ran my loop outside of my case for sanity checks and lo and behold my foundation block catches rust. How can I clean this cold plate? I've already used toothpaste and DW and isopropyl alcohol. How screwed am I? Also before anyone asks here is my loop setup,
> 
> Aquacomputer Ultitube D5 Pro, Optimus Intel Foundation block, EKWB 1080Ti Nickel block, HWL GTX 580 rad, Aquacomputer water filter and all Alphacool fittings with Koolance QD3s for quick troubleshooting.
> 
> Nothing but DW in the loop for the past 2 days. I've also ordered a replacement cold plate from optimus since I dug around the interwebs and couldn't find a miracle solution. I'm pretty sure I have an optimus filter now. Also tonight I'm going to try @JustinThyme suggestion and go for the Coca-Cola method on my radiator as I've opened up everything and nothing looks off except the radiator. It's always the radiator right 🙃?
> 
> Edit: I did not risk cleaning the cold plate with vinegar since it will etch the plating which is obviously a bad idea.


I thought Optimus claims their nickel plating is marine grade and can withstand solvents, acid, salts etc. without degrading. Vinegar or Coke should be fine in cleaning the coldplate I think.

I used Coke last on my copper coldplate in my ultrasonic cleaner and a fine bristled toothbrush. Half hour in the cleaner and mostly done. Then a few scrubs with the toothbrush and all shiny copper again..


----------



## CluckyTaco

Keith Myers said:


> I thought Optimus claims their nickel plating is marine grade and can withstand solvents, acid, salts etc. without degrading. Vinegar or Coke should be fine in cleaning the coldplate I think.
> 
> I used Coke last on my copper coldplate in my ultrasonic cleaner and a fine bristled toothbrush. Half hour in the cleaner and mostly done. Then a few scrubs with the toothbrush and all shiny copper again..


Yeah I know coke/vinegar is ok with a copper cold plate, I haven't anyone say the same for a nickel one. Maybe @Optimus WC can chime in and help a brother out.


----------



## dwolvin

Just in case Optimus doesn't show, this is from their site:

*NICKEL FLAKING:* Did our Pro-XE nickel finish corrode? Unlikely, but if it does, we'll replace it immediately.
*CRACKED ACRYLIC:* Our cast acrylic is extremely strong and impervious to cracks in normal use. This means if spiderweb cracks appear around ports or threads or you have a major crack somewhere on a tube or block, we'll replace it instantly. It's incredibly unlikely this will happen (we've never seen it), but anything is possible.
*FIN STRUCTURE:* Our fins are made to be super thin while staying strong. If our fins collapse or break off (they won't) we'll cover them instantly.
*H2O/DISTILLED/TAP:* Yes, use our blocks and fittings with regular water, distilled recommended. Of course, we can't cover minerals in water clogging up fins or calcium collecting on surfaces.
*COOLANTS:* Our products are made to withstand harsh chemicals, including fluids with abrasives that strip other nickel finishes like Primochill Vue, Mayhems Aurora and others. If you do use an unusual fluid and notice any issues, please contact us so we can research what those fluid mixologists are up to now.


----------



## CluckyTaco

Thanks for pointing it out. I don't think the foundation block is at fault here. It's only been discoloured so I think their product holds up to their marketing. I just wish there was a straightforward way to clean up this black stuff.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, without knowing where the discoloration is coming from it's hard. What kind of tubeing? Other than that, if you run distilled and whatever the US made Mayhems stuff it I'd think you would be good... I've been running 90% distilled / 10% XT-1 concentrate forever and nothing like that...


----------



## CluckyTaco

This is the tubing I'm using ModMyMods 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD Flexible PVC Tubing - Crystal Clear (MOD-0003). Nothing inside the tubes like plasticizer and crap so I'm 100% sure it's the radiator.


----------



## dwolvin

Ah- and Modwater is the fluid I was trying to think of


----------



## Section31

CluckyTaco said:


> Thanks for pointing it out. I don't think the foundation block is at fault here. It's only been discoloured so I think their product holds up to their marketing. I just wish there was a straightforward way to clean up this black stuff.


Use Toothpaste plus qtip or mother’s gold to clean. It’s likely gunk stuck on the block.


----------



## JustinThyme

CluckyTaco said:


> Hey wise folk of this thread. So I've rinsed and rinsed my radiator with vinegar and boiling distilled water and all I got was blue fluid. I further rinsed my radiator with DW and nothing, no flakes nothing. I ran my loop outside of my case for sanity checks and lo and behold my foundation block catches rust. How can I clean this cold plate? I've already used toothpaste and DW and isopropyl alcohol. How screwed am I? Also before anyone asks here is my loop setup,
> 
> Aquacomputer Ultitube D5 Pro, Optimus Intel Foundation block, EKWB 1080Ti Nickel block, HWL GTX 580 rad, Aquacomputer water filter and all Alphacool fittings with Koolance QD3s for quick troubleshooting.
> 
> Nothing but DW in the loop for the past 2 days. I've also ordered a replacement cold plate from optimus since I dug around the interwebs and couldn't find a miracle solution. I'm pretty sure I have an optimus filter now. Also tonight I'm going to try @JustinThyme suggestion and go for the Coca-Cola method on my radiator as I've opened up everything and nothing looks off except the radiator. It's always the radiator right 🙃?
> 
> Edit: I did not risk cleaning the cold plate with vinegar since it will etch the plating which is obviously a bad idea. I don't have the picture of the rust covered block since I panicked and instantly cleaned that gunk off the plate and I only have black streaks on the cold plate as you can see in the picture.


Are they dirty or plating peeling on yet another cold plate that is indestructible electroless plating? Mine peel like a banana in a perfectly clean loop and the chunk were caught by my filter. It was obvious though as the copper showing was evident. They did send me a replacement no charge.

If its just gunk (which is what it look like to me) then toothpaste and a toothbrush will clean that up or mothers or even softscrub and yes its always the rads. Been at this a long time and the only rad I didnt need to clean was my very first one as it had already had plenty of time in use getting flushed out as the heater core of a 69 Chevy truck that was in a junk yard with all the coolant still in it. I did flush out the Ethelene Glycol though. Wouldn't bother me except for those that claim their rads are flushed and clean as a whistle before packaging. Well the rad gunk fairy must come in and get up in the boxes before they ship out. The MORA3 was probably the lightest one with very little coming out of it. Ran it in a closed loop after the coke soak and rinse to see what came out an it wasnt much. Others have flat clogged filters and./or blocks if you dont use a filter. Nearly every water cooling loop issue can be attributed to incomplete or total lack of prep. If you get everything good and clean and I mean everything including the blocks and run DW with an antimicrobial (not the gimmick silver coil) or a good coolant (Ive had excellent luck with mayhems pastel coolants) then you are good. Just drain, flush a couple of times with DW and refill with fresh coolant once a year and you wont have issues. Dont know whats in the Mayhems but its got its own distinct smell. Not just water and dye. The only coolant choice I regretted was the Aurora. Looked cool as hell for about a week then the mica started falling out of suspension and lodging everywhere. That's a mistake Ill not repeat. Had to totally tear down everything and disassemble all the blocks to get all that crap out. The rads were particularly a PITA. Multiple flushes and just when I think I've got it all more comes out. Cant just rip those apart. I was almost going to say screw it and replace them.


----------



## CluckyTaco

dwolvin said:


> Ah- and Modwater is the fluid I was trying to think of


Yeah I have purchased 4 gallons of that. It's going to be my permanent fluid once I fix this black gunk out of my cold plate.



Section31 said:


> Use Toothpaste plus qtip or mother’s gold to clean. It’s likely gunk stuck on the block.


I've heard this mentioned before. For the uninitiated is this what is being referred to? Mother's Gold Polish. Forgive me if I'm totally wrong as I'm not a petrol head.



JustinThyme said:


> Are they dirty or plating peeling on yet another cold plate that is indestructible electroless plating? Mine peel like a banana in a perfectly clean loop and the chunk were caught by my filter. It was obvious though as the copper showing was evident. They did send me a replacement no charge.


First thing I checked. Nothing flaking whatsoever. I'm really surprised that none of the aquacomputer filters caught anything. Neither the pump filter with the Ultitube Pro D5 combo, nor the inline filter from Aquacomputer. The rust particles were so fine like sand. I even found them on the o-rings in the block. I have filled the HWL GTX rad with coke and am going to follow your tried and tested method for rinsing. I'll let everyone know how it goes with the rad.


----------



## dwolvin

After cleaning, don't run straight distilled for long- just leak testing. Chemically water is the universal solvent, the inhibiters in the mod water (and any other good fluids) are to reduce the galvanic and chemical reactions. I know it's not going to be much, but I've never gone past a splash of white vinegar in hat water for cleaning and never seen a gunk issue that I didn't cause.  I know there are a ton of variables, but it's not like the parts need to be autoclaved and assembled in a clean room. Assemble, leak test, fill with good fluid.


----------



## CluckyTaco

Well that is news to me. I didn't think DW by itself could be detrimental to the loop electrochemically. I'll flush that DW in 4 hours then. If nothing leaks after 4 hours I should be ok.


----------



## dwolvin

I've never had problems with straight distilled for a day or two that I didn't cause (I remember noticing a big 'ole thumbprint inside the res once...  but sitting alone for a long time it's not as inert as the gut feeling might lead.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> I've never had problems with straight distilled for a day or two that I didn't cause (I remember noticing a big 'ole thumbprint inside the res once...  but sitting alone for a long time it's not as inert as the gut feeling might lead.


I found optimus picks up any dirt in the system. Not sure why. Pure distilled should not cause issues. Since no performance effect best to run color liquid to mask stuff.


----------



## dwolvin

Possible slight roughness on the nickel finish, I guess...


----------



## Section31

CluckyTaco said:


> Yeah I have purchased 4 gallons of that. It's going to be my permanent fluid once I fix this black gunk out of my cold plate.
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard this mentioned before. For the uninitiated is this what is being referred to? Mother's Gold Polish. Forgive me if I'm totally wrong as I'm not a petrol head.
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I checked. Nothing flaking whatsoever. I'm really surprised that none of the aquacomputer filters caught anything. Neither the pump filter with the Ultitube Pro D5 combo, nor the inline filter from Aquacomputer. The rust particles were so fine like sand. I even found them on the o-rings in the block. I have filled the HWL GTX rad with coke and am going to follow your tried and tested method for rinsing. I'll let everyone know how it goes with the rad.


Are the rads old. Take an actual look inside the radiator. Since i swapped over to watercool rads (and cleaned them) whatever effecting my system is gone. My Hwl rads looked like this color inside the coils. Even after coke runs


----------



## UdoG

What is the current status about a water block for the 3090 FE?
I found the following comment 10 month ago:









Optimus Waterblock


Good catch. We're 100% - 0.000000000000000001% done. The wait more bearable anyways. Supply chain is tight.




www.overclock.net







> 3080/90 FOUNDERS WATER BLOCKS: Yes, we'll definitely make blocks for these cards. We're working on trying to get samples, NVIDIA isn't making this easy. Once we have the cards, then best bet is we'll have copper waterblocks ready to ship within two weeks (nickel takes longer)


----------



## Section31

UdoG said:


> What is the current status about a water block for the 3090 FE?
> I found the following comment 10 month ago:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimus Waterblock
> 
> 
> Good catch. We're 100% - 0.000000000000000001% done. The wait more bearable anyways. Supply chain is tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net


They said it’s unlikely to happen.


----------



## onMute

LiquidHaus said:


> Also, can we PLEASE get a render of the KPE? @Optimus WC


@Optimus WC any update here?


----------



## Section31

onMute said:


> @Optimus WC any update here?


Me too. Want to see photos (even if i dont own an kpe). Eagerly awaiting my strix block. Almost five weeks since i ordered.


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> Me too. Want to see photos (even if i dont own an kpe). Eagerly awaiting my strix block. Almost five weeks since i ordered.


Same! Curious on status of the Strix shipment. I know when I first ordered it said 4-5 week ETA so hopefully thats the case.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Same! Curious on status of the Strix shipment. I know when I first ordered it said 4-5 week ETA so hopefully thats the case.


You and me are probably among the first.


----------



## LiquidHaus

When I was in-between batches of my EXT radiator stands, I had promised customers a 2-3 week pre-order ETA for the powder coated EXT's. I chose that amount of time because I knew I was able to overdeliver on the timeline. Suffice to say, I've taken quite a few notes from analyzing causes and effects in this thread.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> When I was in-between batches of my EXT radiator stands, I had promised customers a 2-3 week pre-order ETA for the powder coated EXT's. I chose that amount of time because I knew I was able to overdeliver on the timeline. Suffice to say, I've taken quite a few notes from analyzing causes and effects in this thread.


Most of us here are patient. Just concerned once you get youtube and reddit group that doesn’t realize these aren’t corsair and ekwb size


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> When I was in-between batches of my EXT radiator stands, I had promised customers a 2-3 week pre-order ETA for the powder coated EXT's. I chose that amount of time because I knew I was able to overdeliver on the timeline. Suffice to say, I've taken quite a few notes from analyzing causes and effects in this thread.


Did you see the response to linus review on aquacomputer leak shield. Lot of noobs responses, especially on price and availability of items. They forgot the expensive shipping and difficulty to get aquacomputer stuff in general. Also linus forgot to mention that that reservoir/pump are not 120usd. 

Also the limitations of the unit with dual pumps and dual reservoir setups.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I wouldn't say most of the guys here are patient. It's mainly the lack of options. You either wait and get it eventually or you don't, it's not much more complicated than that.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Wasn't really trying to go anywhere with what I said. The anger has most definitely subsided in this thread for ETA's which is relieving to see. I just hope you guys get your Strix blocks like the ETA had stated when they were ordered.


----------



## b1gpoop

LiquidHaus said:


> Wasn't really trying to go anywhere with what I said. The anger has most definitely subsided in this thread for ETA's which is relieving to see. I just hope you guys get your Strix blocks like the ETA had stated when they were ordered.


Luckily I had the luxury of knowing Optimus has a history of vastly overpromising delivery times (their fault or not, it happened) so my expectations were set accordingly from the start. Obviously I'd like my Strix block to be here within 6 weeks like they said, but I'm not going to be alarmed if it's not. If we're nearing the end of August and it's still not here then I'll be slightly frustrated though.

Mostly Acrylic Pump Top when? Only part of the reservoir they don't have in stock.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Wasn't really trying to go anywhere with what I said. The anger has most definitely subsided in this thread for ETA's which is relieving to see. I just hope you guys get your Strix blocks like the ETA had stated when they were ordered.


No worries. We are just curious we all have temp solutions. I am currently occupied with my custom keyboard project (pushing project forward). Just changed my mind on switches, ordered an extra keycap set (available now not group buy). 1000Cad gone into that project.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Section31 said:


> You and me are probably among the first.


I ordered mine on the 10th June at 10 30pm,so it’s been a complete month now. Hopefully this or next week,can’t wait to put it on my Strix.


----------



## fursko

I love how bold Optimus is. Never saw sub 10C delta claim before from other gpu waterblock brands. Other brands are always vague.

I achieved 5C delta with my Vega 64 LC gpu, Barrow waterblock and liquid metal. Vega 64 LC is extremely power hungry card. It was a dream.

After switching to Nvidia and thermal paste die-water delta take a HUGE hit. Love seeing sub 10C claim. 

Cpus are more tricky but do we have a delta number ? I'm using phanteks c350i and 9900kf. Veeery disappointed with the performance. Heat transfer from die to loop is just very poor. Also their acrylic 100% cracks but doesn't leak thankfuly.


----------



## GAN77

Any discount coupons?)


----------



## Biggu

GAN77 said:


> Any discount coupons?)


B-Stock is the only discount you really get.


----------



## Section31

GAN77 said:


> Any discount coupons?)


Ask them through email


----------



## Section31




----------



## b1gpoop

Section31 said:


> Snip


Is that confirmation the V2 Signature will work for Alder/Raptor Lake? I was worried about getting one and then the mounting changing.


----------



## iamjanco

Didn't see what follows posted here; posting it for the record (my apologies if it's a repost):


----------



## acoustic

What's a healthy L/H rate for flow in a loop? I finally got my Aquacomputer High Flow NEXT in the loop .. works great! The water quality is a bit confusing as it goes up and down as the water temp goes up/down.. but assuming it'll steady as it runs.

I ended up re-doing some of my runs.. I think it came out better. I noticed my GPU temp maxed at 41-42 where it used to be 44-46 .. I think one of the runs from the GPU to the rad were not very good and it was being restrictive.

Either way.. it's great!

Water temp at idle was 21c, after full load in Metro Exodus it was 29.5c. Fans were running slow too. Love it


----------



## dwolvin

I'd say above 1.5LPH, 2 being where I feel comfortable... But honestly the loss for lower flow isn't bad as long as there is some decent movement.


----------



## JustinThyme

fursko said:


> I love how bold Optimus is. Never saw sub 10C delta claim before from other gpu waterblock brands. Other brands are always vague.
> 
> I achieved 5C delta with my Vega 64 LC gpu, Barrow waterblock and liquid metal. Vega 64 LC is extremely power hungry card. It was a dream.
> 
> After switching to Nvidia and thermal paste die-water delta take a HUGE hit. Love seeing sub 10C claim.
> 
> Cpus are more tricky but do we have a delta number ? I'm using phanteks c350i and 9900kf. Veeery disappointed with the performance. Heat transfer from die to loop is just very poor. Also their acrylic 100% cracks but doesn't leak thankfuly.


My heatkiller blocks on 2080Tis are 1.2C delta at idle and 8C under heavy load, typical gaming around 6C. They dont publish any delta information Im aware of. They just make good blocks.


----------



## JustinThyme

dwolvin said:


> I'd say above 1.5LPH, 2 being where I feel comfortable... But honestly the loss for lower flow isn't bad as long as there is some decent movement.


1.5LPH? Are you really meaning 1.5LPM? Im sitting here cranking 335LPH. Higher than most with 3 D5s 
Id crap my drawers if I saw 1.5LPH. That means all but one of my pumps have failed and I have a severe blockage somewhere.
I prefer high flow rates to get better pressure at the block inlets. Some non restrictive blocks are OK with a lower flow rate but I generally find the less restrictive ones to not perform as well. Take for instance the Sig V2. Its fairly restrictive compared to some others I've run but it performs in the top tier. My flow rate drops 15LPH between the Sig V2 or the foundation and the EK Magnitude. 

You just need to make sure your pumps have enough a$$ to deliver enough flow for the restrictions you have. Ive never run a single pump. Always at least two. More flow and redundancy should one crap out. The more the merrier but in small cases thats hard to do without an external rad and depending on your heat load small cases often done offer enough rad surface area to dissipate the heat. Im a bit over kill but cooler is always better. My liquid temp doesnt go past 30C with a 10980XE OCd to anyhere from 4.7 to 5.1 GHZ and a pair of Strix 2080Ti 011G OC edition cards fully loaded. Fans will spin up but thats how my curves are set, 30C max. If Im loading the crap out of everything the fans will get close to max rpms but never quite get there.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> 1.5LPH? Are you really meaning 1.5LPM? Im sitting here cranking 335LPH. Higher than most with 3 D5s
> Id crap my drawers if I saw 1.5LPH. That means all but one of my pumps have failed and I have a severe blockage somewhere.
> I prefer high flow rates to get better pressure at the block inlets. Some non restrictive blocks are OK with a lower flow rate but I generally find the less restrictive ones to not perform as well. Take for instance the Sig V2. Its fairly restrictive compared to some others I've run but it performs in the top tier. My flow rate drops 15LPH between the Sig V2 or the foundation and the EK Magnitude.
> 
> You just need to make sure your pumps have enough a$$ to deliver enough flow for the restrictions you have. Ive never run a single pump. Always at least two. More flow and redundancy should one crap out. The more the merrier but in small cases thats hard to do without an external rad and depending on your heat load small cases often done offer enough rad surface area to dissipate the heat. Im a bit over kill but cooler is always better. My liquid temp doesnt go past 30C with a 10980XE OCd to anyhere from 4.7 to 5.1 GHZ and a pair of Strix 2080Ti 011G OC edition cards fully loaded. Fans will spin up but thats how my curves are set, 30C max. If Im loading the crap out of everything the fans will get close to max rpms but never quite get there.


I agree. Next build im going internal with dual d5. So four d5 in total.


----------



## Shawnb99

acoustic said:


> What's a healthy L/H rate for flow in a loop?


Minimum is 0.5GPM and ideally you want 1GPM


----------



## KedarWolf

Oh man, I'm getting an EVGA Kingpin RTX 3090 soon, and I'm selling my Strix OC 3090 with a waterblock and active backplate for just enough to get the Kingpin block etc.

I'm soooo stoked!!!


----------



## KedarWolf

Oh @Optimus WC Is there a price on the Kingpin block and active backplate yet? Even an estimate if you can?


----------



## chibi

KedarWolf said:


> Oh man, I'm getting an EVGA Kingpin RTX 3090 soon, and I'm selling my Strix OC 3090 with a waterblock and active backplate for just enough to get the Kingpin block etc.
> 
> I'm soooo stoked!!!


Dude you're going to max out the FPS in Diablo 3 no prob with the Kingpin! See you in game


----------



## KedarWolf

chibi said:


> Dude you're going to max out the FPS in Diablo 3 no prob with the Kingpin! See you in game


8K 60FPS on a 3090🤢700 FPS in Diablo 3. 😁


----------



## Shawnb99

KedarWolf said:


> Oh @Optimus WC Is there a price on the Kingpin block and active backplate yet? Even an estimate if you can?


$600+


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> Oh man, I'm getting an EVGA Kingpin RTX 3090 soon, and I'm selling my Strix OC 3090 with a waterblock and active backplate for just enough to get the Kingpin block etc.
> 
> I'm soooo stoked!!!


The optimus fan club lol.


----------



## KedarWolf

Shawnb99 said:


> $600+


Oh geez, that'll be hard to swing for me.


----------



## Shawnb99

KedarWolf said:


> Oh geez, that'll be hard to swing for me.


Hopefully not that high but it'll be expensive. Other option is the Hydrocopper


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> Oh geez, that'll be hard to swing for me.


Just buy it per shawnb99. Anyone part of the optimus fan club gotten used to it.


----------



## dwolvin

JustinThyme said:


> 1.5LPH? Are you really meaning 1.5LPM? Im sitting here cranking 335LPH. Higher than most with 3 D5s
> Id crap my drawers if I saw 1.5LPH. That means all but one of my pumps have failed and I have a severe blockage somewhere.
> I prefer high flow rates to get better pressure at the block inlets. Some non restrictive blocks are OK with a lower flow rate but I generally find the less restrictive ones to not perform as well. Take for instance the Sig V2. Its fairly restrictive compared to some others I've run but it performs in the top tier. My flow rate drops 15LPH between the Sig V2 or the foundation and the EK Magnitude.
> 
> You just need to make sure your pumps have enough a$$ to deliver enough flow for the restrictions you have. Ive never run a single pump. Always at least two. More flow and redundancy should one crap out. The more the merrier but in small cases thats hard to do without an external rad and depending on your heat load small cases often done offer enough rad surface area to dissipate the heat. Im a bit over kill but cooler is always better. My liquid temp doesnt go past 30C with a 10980XE OCd to anyhere from 4.7 to 5.1 GHZ and a pair of Strix 2080Ti 011G OC edition cards fully loaded. Fans will spin up but thats how my curves are set, 30C max. If Im loading the crap out of everything the fans will get close to max rpms but never quite get there.


Whoops- tired conversion in my head! Yeah, per minute is better.


----------



## KedarWolf

Section31 said:


> Just buy it per shawnb99. Anyone part of the optimus fan club gotten used to it.


Okay, yeah, that works @Shawnb99 can buy it for me!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Shawnb99 said:


> Hopefully not that high but it'll be expensive. Other option is the Hydrocopper


What to expect when you're expecting, Kingpin Edition.


----------



## acoustic

Shawnb99 said:


> Minimum is 0.5GPM and ideally you want 1GPM


Thanks! I'll have to change the flow meter setting to read GPM. Either way, looks like my 180-185LPH is equivalent to 0.8GPM. That was with the D5 at only 4100RPM.


----------



## skline00

0451 said it best. If you are buying anything associated with the Kingpin edition expect to pay top dollar. 
I'm not knocking the quality etc, but since there are so few of these models, add ons such as waterblocks and backplates are custom runs costing much more. It's hard for the manufacturer to amortize fixed costs with so few quantity.
Kedarwolf, enjoy the Kingpin.


----------



## Biggu

KedarWolf said:


> Oh geez, that'll be hard to swing for me.


Gotta pay to play.


----------



## D-EJ915

acoustic said:


> Thanks! I'll have to change the flow meter setting to read GPM. Either way, looks like my 180-185LPH is equivalent to 0.8GPM. That was with the D5 at only 4100RPM.


"ideal flow rate" really depends, basically it has to either be at or above the point where reducing it lowers your loop performance. I've never personally had a loop where if I kept increasing my flow rate my performance kept going up, they always topped out at some point.


----------



## dwolvin

Seconded, and I'll throw in that the floor of that improvement can be surprising (especially in a simple loop). .8 GPM should be fine.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Seconded, and I'll throw in that the floor of that improvement can be surprising (especially in a simple loop). .8 GPM should be fine.


Lol I plan to follow shawnb99 and add more pumps lol. Lets beat his 6 pumps


----------



## dwolvin

Section31 said:


> Lol I plan to follow shawnb99 and add more pumps lol. Lets beat his 6 pumps


Too much is never enough! (song, not book)


----------



## acoustic

Yeah I'll have to test upping the D5 and see if it does anything. I may try and lower it even further (watching temps of course) for less noise. The D5 isn't loud but when everything else is so quiet, the pump at 4900rpm can be noticeable.

My entire PC is down right now since my basement is currently flooding and I had to pull all my electronics out.. lol.


----------



## Shawnb99

D-EJ915 said:


> "ideal flow rate" really depends, basically it has to either be at or above the point where reducing it lowers your loop performance. I've never personally had a loop where if I kept increasing my flow rate my performance kept going up, they always topped out at some point.


Once you hit 3GPM the returns are miniscule. Even past 1GPM it's not really worth it as it's at best a 1-3 degree difference. 



Section31 said:


> Lol I plan to follow shawnb99 and add more pumps lol. Lets beat his 6 pumps


I think the 65 fans is more impressive


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Once you hit 3GPM the returns are miniscule. Even past 1GPM it's not really worth it as it's at best a 1-3 degree difference.
> 
> 
> 
> I think the 65 fans is more impressive


Thats hard to beat lol. Im at 21fans total. I just need to go overkill lol.


----------



## Shawnb99

I could fit two more if I was willing to drill a couple holes for the tubing... Now that I think about it, that might actually be a great idea. Hook up a pair of QDC's and make it easy to remove the pedestal as needed.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I could fit two more if I was willing to drill a couple holes for the tubing... Now that I think about it, that might actually be a great idea. Hook up a pair of QDC's and make it easy to remove the pedestal as needed.


Build it like mine lol.


----------



## Bart

Shawnb99 said:


> I could fit two more if I was willing to drill a couple holes for the tubing... Now that I think about it, that might actually be a great idea. Hook up a pair of QDC's and make it easy to remove the pedestal as needed.


I've been running a pair of old Koolance 3/8 5/8 QDCs in my M8 forever now, very handy for disconnecting the pedestal. I think I've been running the same pair of QD3's for over 10 years, LOL!


----------



## HyperMatrix

D-EJ915 said:


> "ideal flow rate" really depends, basically it has to either be at or above the point where reducing it lowers your loop performance. I've never personally had a loop where if I kept increasing my flow rate my performance kept going up, they always topped out at some point.


It depends in large part on your fan speed. It's increasingly more beneficial to have higher flow rate when you have a higher rate of air making contact with the fins on the radiator. The heat transfer is a result of the delta between the water temperature and the air temperature. It's not a linear benefit though. I don't think you really need more than 1GPM. Not for any noticeable difference in performance. You could gain a few degrees if you're going all out with 30x 3000rpm fans at 2-3GPM. The question is if it's really worth it. I'm doing a rebuild this weekend and going with a 3 pump setup, but mainly just to compensate for my use of multiple QDC3s. And also I actually am running 30x 3000 rpm fans. But it's not necessary unless you're OCD about a few extra degrees. Which I am.  The 6 pumps on shawn's build is just crazy. Haha.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Thats hard to beat lol. Im at 21fans total. I just need to go overkill lol.


I actually yanked a buttload of fans as I found them useless. Was running push pull in everything until I discovered all you need are single fans with some a$$ and a high static pressure for the rads. I had 23 fans total now running 14.

For flow I agree on the 1GPM being about as high as you can go with diminishing returns past that. Im just below 1GPM at present.


----------



## Altimax98

So I just finished putting together my first loop. I am running Bitspower PETG with XSPC TX radiators, an EK FLT120 D5/Res and a pair of Optimus blocks for my FTW3 3080 and 10700k.

At the moment, I am just running distilled water w/Mayhems dye waiting for my XSPC biocide to arrive this week, however I am noticing something troubling. I just finished it all yesterday, added the dye and started doing live tests (I had already done leak tests with another PSU + air tests) with all the system running etc and it looked great. (I had previously cleaned out the radiators with hot distilled water shaken and then flushed with distilled until no gunk came out).

However, today I am noticing all the dye is gone out of the water and it looks like it is collecting on the CPU block (my GPU is normally mounted so I cannot see those fins).

Has anyone else had this issue? Its looking like I am going to need to do a full teardown/clean which sucks but what should I do to avoid this down the road, are dyes safe with Optimus blocks? I hadn't seen anywhere saying you shouldn't run them.


----------



## JustinThyme

Yeah ive had that happen except it collected in everything. After went to the premix and never looked back. I just have DW with biocide in ATM but about to add my MORA3 to the loop and 5 liters of Mayhems pastel red premix at the ready. Could be something reacting to take the dye out of suspension from one dissimilar metal part or just the dye. For me it was just the dye coming out of suspension and lodging. What kind of flow rate do you have? The optimus blocks are a bit restrictive and may take another pump in serial.


----------



## Altimax98

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah ive had that happen except it collected in everything. After went to the premix and never looked back. I just have DW with biocide in ATM but about to add my MORA3 to the loop and 5 liters of Mayhems pastel red premix at the ready. Could be something reacting to take the dye out of suspension from one dissimilar metal part or just the dye. For me it was just the dye coming out of suspension and lodging. What kind of flow rate do you have? The optimus blocks are a bit restrictive and may take another pump in serial.


I was initially thinking of going with a concentrate mix but Mayhems is so difficult to get here in the states for clear XT-1 V2 which is the stuff that is safe for PETG usage.

It is a small ITX build with ~600ml of liquid in it with a D5 pump so I certainly hope that it isn't having flow problems lol. I am wondering if there was some crud left in the radiators since I didnt do like a deep Blitz style cleaning and that caused it to come out of suspension.

I think I may end up taking the loop apart and cleaning the CPU jets but I really want to avoid taking the GPU out/apart due to the way it is built lol. I will probably grab some Blitz Part 2 and run it through the loop to clear it out before filling/dying it again.

Edit - It shouldn't have any metal reactions, the only components are the TX rads, Optimus blocks, Bitspower fittings, and EK pump.


----------



## acoustic

My basement is currently ****ed due to water coming seeping through the foundation. Until that's fixed, I was just going to let the PC sit.

Decided I can't just do that, so I brought it upstairs and hooked it up to the 65" LG C9. 4K/120hz + HDR? Looks fantastic!! I also got the rest of the air out of the loop. I'm sitting at 0.88GPM (previously was giving me about 0.80GPM when I first filled) at 4100rpm on the D5. Water temp went up considerably because it's so much warmer upstairs than it is in my frozen tundra of a basement.

I've always been curious of how the PC would look on the OLED .. and hot damn, I need that 42" to get released already. Everything looks amazing.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> My basement is currently ****ed due to water coming seeping through the foundation. Until that's fixed, I was just going to let the PC sit.
> 
> Decided I can't just do that, so I brought it upstairs and hooked it up to the 65" LG C9. 4K/120hz + HDR? Looks fantastic!! I also got the rest of the air out of the loop. I'm sitting at 0.88GPM (previously was giving me about 0.80GPM when I first filled) at 4100rpm on the D5. Water temp went up considerably because it's so much warmer upstairs than it is in my frozen tundra of a basement.
> 
> I've always been curious of how the PC would look on the OLED .. and hot damn, I need that 42" to get released already. Everything looks amazing.


The new watercool rads are pretty low hit on flow rate i know. I take an beating the moment the mo-ra back on.


----------



## acoustic

After topping the reservoir off with some distilled, and giving it a little more shakey shakey, I'm now sitting at a cool 0.98GPM per Aquasuite.

I love this High Flow NEXT; fantastic purchase. I have to post pics of the re-routing I did -- my tube runs came out much cleaner this time, after I dropped another $130 in Microcenter on Bitspower fittings  lol


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> After topping the reservoir off with some distilled, and giving it a little more shakey shakey, I'm now sitting at a cool 0.98GPM per Aquasuite.
> 
> I love this High Flow NEXT; fantastic purchase. I have to post pics of the re-routing I did -- my tube runs came out much cleaner this time, after I dropped another $130 in Microcenter on Bitspower fittings  lol


That's normal


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> That's normal


man only $130 consider yourself lucky. Not going to lie, Microcenter having a WC section is amazing in a pinch but also a problem when it comes to my wallet.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Well I'm fired up to move now... Heard everyone's horror stories on blocks taking forever to be delivered. Decided to get my FTW3 block shipped to a friend in the city I'm moving to. Got a shipping notification today, ordered in on the 2nd. Figured I'd be waiting 4-6 weeks.


----------



## JustinThyme

Altimax98 said:


> I was initially thinking of going with a concentrate mix but Mayhems is so difficult to get here in the states for clear XT-1 V2 which is the stuff that is safe for PETG usage.
> 
> It is a small ITX build with ~600ml of liquid in it with a D5 pump so I certainly hope that it isn't having flow problems lol. I am wondering if there was some crud left in the radiators since I didnt do like a deep Blitz style cleaning and that caused it to come out of suspension.
> 
> I think I may end up taking the loop apart and cleaning the CPU jets but I really want to avoid taking the GPU out/apart due to the way it is built lol. I will probably grab some Blitz Part 2 and run it through the loop to clear it out before filling/dying it again.
> 
> Edit - It shouldn't have any metal reactions, the only components are the TX rads, Optimus blocks, Bitspower fittings, and EK pump.


Im using the pastel red in PETG with no problems.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Im using the pastel red in PETG with no problems.



























Decided to test out my mayhem xtr 4nm. Don’t particularly see any major improvement.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2517723
> View attachment 2517724
> 
> View attachment 2517725
> 
> 
> Decided to test out my mayhem xtr 4nm. Don’t particularly see any major improvement.


I’ve not seen much difference if any in performance from one coolant to the next. Back in the day we tried anything from glycol to DW with water wetter, alcohol and even windex LOL. Nothing really showed any improvement. I’m happy if it flows, doesn’t have particulates in it and doesn’t start it’s own science project up in my loop and looks good if possible.


----------



## Section31

Anyone see RTX A6000 reviews, apparently gddr6x is reason why ampere is an power hog.


----------



## bigboy678

Section31 said:


> Anyone see RTX A6000 reviews, apparently gddr6x is reason why ampere is an power hog.


yeah looking at the 3070ti founders edition review techpowerup noted that while the 3070ti offers around 7 % more fps it uses 80 watts more power due to the use of gddr6x memory. has their been any rumblings on a gddr7 ? i am curious what will be used for rtx 4000 series and 7000 series amd


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> Anyone see RTX A6000 reviews, apparently gddr6x is reason why ampere is an power hog.


Yes it was reported early on that the 24GB of vram in a 24x 1GB config on the 3090 uses upwards of 90W at stock clocks. That’s why there’s speculation that we may yet see a 3090 Super or Ti with 2.4% more cores enabled for a fully unlocked die, as well as a 12x 2GB vram setup at higher clock speeds and still lower overall power usage.


----------



## fursko

JustinThyme said:


> My heatkiller blocks on 2080Tis are 1.2C delta at idle and 8C under heavy load, typical gaming around 6C. They dont publish any delta information Im aware of. They just make good blocks.


Liquid metal or thermal paste ? My 2080 with phanteks strix block can go up to 16C delta with very heavy load. Generally 12C when gaming. Depends on overclock, pump speed etc. Your numbers look too good to be true for thermal paste. If you check out VSG's reviews on techpowerup, general trend is 16-18C delta with 60 minutes timespy extreme. 

I achieved superb delta with barrow block on vega 64 lc with liquid metal. The gpu pulls around 500W alone with oc and delta was 5-6C in extreme conditions(furmark etc). In comparison my 2080 strix pulls around 260W(305W with max power limit). Problem is cpu though. For some reason my cpu temps aren't better than simple aio coolers. Tried multiple thermal pastes and barrow+phanteks block. 9900kf is just crazy. I'm suspecting the quality control of these chips. Heat transfer is just bad.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Yes it was reported early on that the 24GB of vram in a 24x 1GB config on the 3090 uses upwards of 90W at stock clocks. That’s why there’s speculation that we may yet see a 3090 Super or Ti with 2.4% more cores enabled for a fully unlocked die, as well as a 12x 2GB vram setup at higher clock speeds and still lower overall power usage.


True. We are 1.5years away from lovelace, rdna3 and dg3. Save up for that.


----------



## JustinThyme

fursko said:


> Liquid metal or thermal paste ? My 2080 with phanteks strix block can go up to 16C delta with very heavy load. Generally 12C when gaming. Depends on overclock, pump speed etc. Your numbers look too good to be true for thermal paste. If you check out VSG's reviews on techpowerup, general trend is 16-18C delta with 60 minutes timespy extreme.
> 
> I achieved superb delta with barrow block on vega 64 lc with liquid metal. The gpu pulls around 500W alone with oc and delta was 5-6C in extreme conditions(furmark etc). In comparison my 2080 strix pulls around 260W(305W with max power limit). Problem is cpu though. For some reason my cpu temps aren't better than simple aio coolers. Tried multiple thermal pastes and barrow+phanteks block. 9900kf is just crazy. I'm suspecting the quality control of these chips. Heat transfer is just bad.


Kryonaut and a HeatKiller block.
Phanteks blocks are OK, they just don’t have an backplate leaving you with none, which is better than putting the stock one back on as it has zero contact and only insulates keeping heat in. The Heat killer back plate is pretty robust and makes contact via thermal pads on the back of the CPU, memory snd VRMs. I have zero respect for Techpowerup after they published the Optimus Sig V2 as king of the hill then when they got a sample of the EK magnitude named it the new king by 0.10C which is BS. If their delta continues to climb they have some cooling issues. If their overall liquid temp continues to climb they have an inadequate loop. Their 0.10C claim is well within the margin of error and tested on a 9900K. I ran extensive testing on both blocks with HEDT and my conclusion is out of the box they are comparable blocks. I got pretty much identical runs on both through many different scenarios. Biggest PITA with both is getting the TIM spread right and mounts. I run a pair of 2080Tis and the delta stated is fact whether it be TS in an endless loop or luxmark or any other load. The highest I’ve ever seen it spike is 9C but 8C is the norm. Barrow blocks suck. Tried that before others were released and they were warped, left me bleeding and made contact with maybe 3 of the primary VRMs and totally no contact by design with two of the secondary. Again no back plate and worst of all the pi$$ poor design put the placement of the water connections made it impossible to install an Nvlink bridge. I’m running strix 2080Tis, no overvolt as it does nothing for me but make the heat go up. 2130 on the cores. I measure the delta with a virtual sensor in aquasuite that’s a simple equation. GPU core temp less the liquid temp which never passes 30C.
Delta doesn’t have much to do with your loop other than pump pressure which 335L/M I don’t have pressure problems. I also don’t have rad surface area issues which has nothing to do with the Delta, just hotter liquid means hotter core temps. I’m sorry you don’t get good results with your rig but it’s no surprise using inferior blocks. Mine are great.

I can’t touch the OCs I get with an AIO. Won’t even hold up to an AVX workload at stock. Barrow and Phanteks blocks is where your problem is and maybe your loop. Only 3 blocks I’d consider. Optimus, EK Magnitude and Heat Killer IV pro.

Whats the rest of your loop? I’m running 3X D5 pumps. GTR 420, 480XE, 360 SE and GTS 360. I’m about to pull the 480XE and 360SE, leave the HW labs in and add a MORA3 420 to the loop.

I’m not one to post BS. I’ve posted here many times with substantial back up on the GPU blocks, Optimus blocks, EK magnitude block, Barrow POS blocks and HK IV blocks. I have nothing to prove to anyone. My only reason for posting is sharing information. Most of it at my own expense. I ran the Phanteks blocks on my 2080Tis for a short time with no back plate until Heat Killer released blocks. Those got around 15C delta. For GPU blocks less than 15C delta is OK, less than 10C delta is what a good block will provide. Everything under 10 are good blocks and there aren’t many. Good luck with you cooling venture. I hope you can get your components under control.


----------



## Section31

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/hardwareswap/comments/omvx88

This beauty is available for those interested. One of last cases looks like - two tone color and metal cable management clips


----------



## Section31

Optimus should get into tool making as well. I have invested a lot just in watercooling tools.


----------



## JustinThyme

JustinThyme said:


> Kryonaut and a HeatKiller block.
> Phanteks blocks are OK, they just don’t have an backplate leaving you with none, which is better than putting the stock one back on as it has zero contact and only insulates keeping heat in. The Heat killer back plate is pretty robust and makes contact via thermal pads on the back of the CPU, memory snd VRMs. I have zero respect for Techpowerup after they published the Optimus Sig V2 as king of the hill then when they got a sample of the EK magnitude named it the new king by 0.10C which is BS. Well within the margin of error. I run a pair of 2080Tis and the delta stated is fact whether it be TS in an endless loop or luxmark or any other load. The highest I’ve ever seen it spike is 9C but 8C is the norm. Barrow blocks suck. Tried that before others were released and they were warped, left me bleeding and made contact with maybe 3 of the primary VRMs and totally no contact by design with two of the secondary. Again no back plate and worst of all the pi$$ poor design put the placement of the water connections made it impossible to install an Nvlink bridge. I’m running strix 2080Tis, no overvolt as it does nothing for me but make the heat go up. 2130 on the cores. I measure the delta with a virtual sensor in aquasuite that’s a simple equation. GPU core temp less the liquid temp which never passes 30C.
> Delta doesn’t have much to do with your loop other than pump pressure which 335L/M I don’t have pressure problems. I also don’t have rad surface area issues which has nothing to do with the Delta, just hotter liquid means hotter core temps. I’m sorry you don’t get good results with your rig but it’s no surprise using inferior blocks. Mine are great.
> 
> I can’t touch the OCs I get with an AIO. Won’t even hold up to an AVX workload at stock. Barrow and Phanteks blocks is where your problem is and maybe your loop. Only 3 blocks I’d consider. Optimus, EK Magnitude and Heat Killer IV pro.
> 
> Whats the rest of your loop? I’m running 3X D5 pumps. GTR 420, 480XE, 360 SE and GTS 360. I’m about to pull the 480XE and 360SE, leave the HW labs in and add a MORA3 420 to the loop.
> 
> I’m not one to post BS. I’ve posted here many times with substantial back up on the GPU blocks, Optimus blocks, EK magnitude block, Barrow POS blocks and HK IV blocks. I have nothing to prove to anyone. My only reason for posting is sharing information. Most of it at my own expense. I ran the Phanteks blocks on my 2080Tis for a short time with no back plate until Heat Killer released blocks. Those got around 15C delta. For GPU blocks less than 15C delta is OK, less than 10C delta is what a good block will provide. Everything under 10 are good blocks and there aren’t many. Good luck with you cooling venture. I hope you can get your components under control.





fursko said:


> Liquid metal or thermal paste ? My 2080 with phanteks strix block can go up to 16C delta with very heavy load. Generally 12C when gaming. Depends on overclock, pump speed etc. Your numbers look too good to be true for thermal paste. If you check out VSG's reviews on techpowerup, general trend is 16-18C delta with 60 minutes timespy extreme.
> 
> I achieved superb delta with barrow block on vega 64 lc with liquid metal. The gpu pulls around 500W alone with oc and delta was 5-6C in extreme conditions(furmark etc). In comparison my 2080 strix pulls around 260W(305W with max power limit). Problem is cpu though. For some reason my cpu temps aren't better than simple aio coolers. Tried multiple thermal pastes and barrow+phanteks block. 9900kf is just crazy. I'm suspecting the quality control of these chips. Heat transfer is just bad.



Here, I even added in the CPU to run the heat up some more on the loop. Its all about the blocks...I dont use LM on CPU or GPU except for under the IHS on a delidded CPU that I havent done since the 7900X that needed the pigeon poop removed. Just Kryonaught. CPU cooler is EK magnitude with flat cold plate that isnt exactly flat ( just happens to fit the curvature of my IHS better) and Heak Killer Strix 2080Ti blocks with their backplate which makes a big difference. I'll have a look and see if I can find one from when I had the phanteks on there. They ran decently but no back plate. Barrow was a joke. Never even put liquid in them. Test fit and the fit failed miseralbly and to add insult to injury they didnt bother to debur anything and it cut the crap out of my hand from a massive shard sticking out from one of the points where they tapped mounting holes and the shard was even nickel plated so it left for plating like that. I have a post floating around in here somewhere with pics of it. I havent run any optimus GPU blocks but those who have said they got decent results. They dont make them for 2080Tis and Im not going there with the prices the way they are and if I did it would be Strix 3090s and two of them.










And my crappy TS score...








I scored 26 605 in Time Spy


Intel Core i9-10980XE Extreme Edition Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti x 2, 65536 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}




www.3dmark.com








Edit: TS Extreme Stress


----------



## fursko

JustinThyme said:


> Kryonaut and a HeatKiller block.
> Phanteks blocks are OK, they just don’t have an backplate leaving you with none, which is better than putting the stock one back on as it has zero contact and only insulates keeping heat in. The Heat killer back plate is pretty robust and makes contact via thermal pads on the back of the CPU, memory snd VRMs. I have zero respect for Techpowerup after they published the Optimus Sig V2 as king of the hill then when they got a sample of the EK magnitude named it the new king by 0.10C which is BS. If their delta continues to climb they have some cooling issues. If their overall liquid temp continues to climb they have an inadequate loop. Their 0.10C claim is well within the margin of error and tested on a 9900K. I ran extensive testing on both blocks with HEDT and my conclusion is out of the box they are comparable blocks. I got pretty much identical runs on both through many different scenarios. Biggest PITA with both is getting the TIM spread right and mounts. I run a pair of 2080Tis and the delta stated is fact whether it be TS in an endless loop or luxmark or any other load. The highest I’ve ever seen it spike is 9C but 8C is the norm. Barrow blocks suck. Tried that before others were released and they were warped, left me bleeding and made contact with maybe 3 of the primary VRMs and totally no contact by design with two of the secondary. Again no back plate and worst of all the pi$$ poor design put the placement of the water connections made it impossible to install an Nvlink bridge. I’m running strix 2080Tis, no overvolt as it does nothing for me but make the heat go up. 2130 on the cores. I measure the delta with a virtual sensor in aquasuite that’s a simple equation. GPU core temp less the liquid temp which never passes 30C.
> Delta doesn’t have much to do with your loop other than pump pressure which 335L/M I don’t have pressure problems. I also don’t have rad surface area issues which has nothing to do with the Delta, just hotter liquid means hotter core temps. I’m sorry you don’t get good results with your rig but it’s no surprise using inferior blocks. Mine are great.
> 
> I can’t touch the OCs I get with an AIO. Won’t even hold up to an AVX workload at stock. Barrow and Phanteks blocks is where your problem is and maybe your loop. Only 3 blocks I’d consider. Optimus, EK Magnitude and Heat Killer IV pro.
> 
> Whats the rest of your loop? I’m running 3X D5 pumps. GTR 420, 480XE, 360 SE and GTS 360. I’m about to pull the 480XE and 360SE, leave the HW labs in and add a MORA3 420 to the loop.
> 
> I’m not one to post BS. I’ve posted here many times with substantial back up on the GPU blocks, Optimus blocks, EK magnitude block, Barrow POS blocks and HK IV blocks. I have nothing to prove to anyone. My only reason for posting is sharing information. Most of it at my own expense. I ran the Phanteks blocks on my 2080Tis for a short time with no back plate until Heat Killer released blocks. Those got around 15C delta. For GPU blocks less than 15C delta is OK, less than 10C delta is what a good block will provide. Everything under 10 are good blocks and there aren’t many. Good luck with you cooling venture. I hope you can get your components under control.


Well i agree most of what you said. I hope i'm not misunderstood as offensive. I can't freely buy what i like honestly. Shipping and cost too much here so i try to optimize what i can buy best. Phanteks blocks looks good aesthetically but i agree they aren't good. They are less restrictive than average i assume which helps since i'm using only one D5 with EK top and reservoir which is loud at high speeds. My rads and fans are good 1x360 HWLABS GTS, 1x360 EK PE with 6x Noctua A12 fans. Clear coolant with zmt tubing, blocks are pristine clean. Case is Fractal R6 without front door. Airflow is great. Overall my loop is quite good. Annoying part is the cpu heat transfer from die to water is really bad and pump noise at high speeds. No problem dissipating the heat from the loop. My temp sensor is on outlet of the pump which goes directly to the gpu inlet. My measurements are pretty accurate. Right now, it's ok. I can't overclock my cpu as i would like but temps are ok in daily usage with mild overclock. Gpu temps are very good with max oc (2115mhz/16.2gbps stable). System is silent with fixed rpms.(pump running low rpm). 

Next time i may do 2xd5 pump and use less restrictive rad instead of GTS 360. Optimus blocks looks amazing if i can afford. I heard optimus blocks are especially great with ryzen cpu's.


----------



## Section31

fursko said:


> Well i agree most of what you said. I hope i'm not misunderstood as offensive. I can't freely buy what i like honestly. Shipping and cost too much here so i try to optimize what i can buy best. Phanteks blocks looks good aesthetically but i agree they aren't good. They are less restrictive than average i assume which helps since i'm using only one D5 with EK top and reservoir which is loud at high speeds. My rads and fans are good 1x360 HWLABS GTS, 1x360 EK PE with 6x Noctua A12 fans. Clear coolant with zmt tubing, blocks are pristine clean. Case is Fractal R6 without front door. Airflow is great. Overall my loop is quite good. Annoying part is the cpu heat transfer from die to water is really bad and pump noise at high speeds. No problem dissipating the heat from the loop. My temp sensor is on outlet of the pump which goes directly to the gpu inlet. My measurements are pretty accurate. Right now, it's ok. I can't overclock my cpu as i would like but temps are ok in daily usage with mild overclock. Gpu temps are very good with max oc (2115mhz/16.2gbps stable). System is silent with fixed rpms.(pump running low rpm).
> 
> Next time i may do 2xd5 pump and use less restrictive rad instead of GTS 360. Optimus blocks looks amazing if i can afford. I heard optimus blocks are especially great with ryzen cpu's.


Its either heatkiller new internal rads for that atm. Otherwise wait for optimus rads lol


----------



## JustinThyme

fursko said:


> Well i agree most of what you said. I hope i'm not misunderstood as offensive. I can't freely buy what i like honestly. Shipping and cost too much here so i try to optimize what i can buy best. Phanteks blocks looks good aesthetically but i agree they aren't good. They are less restrictive than average i assume which helps since i'm using only one D5 with EK top and reservoir which is loud at high speeds. My rads and fans are good 1x360 HWLABS GTS, 1x360 EK PE with 6x Noctua A12 fans. Clear coolant with zmt tubing, blocks are pristine clean. Case is Fractal R6 without front door. Airflow is great. Overall my loop is quite good. Annoying part is the cpu heat transfer from die to water is really bad and pump noise at high speeds. No problem dissipating the heat from the loop. My temp sensor is on outlet of the pump which goes directly to the gpu inlet. My measurements are pretty accurate. Right now, it's ok. I can't overclock my cpu as i would like but temps are ok in daily usage with mild overclock. Gpu temps are very good with max oc (2115mhz/16.2gbps stable). System is silent with fixed rpms.(pump running low rpm).
> 
> Next time i may do 2xd5 pump and use less restrictive rad instead of GTS 360. Optimus blocks looks amazing if i can afford. I heard optimus blocks are especially great with ryzen cpu's.


I understand budgets restrictions as well as sourcing issues. For the Heat Killer gear I have to pay a premium not only for the hardware but the shipping from Germany. It’s good gear though. Unfortunately it’s astoundingly true that you get what you pay for in the world of high power machines. Optimus makes a decent AMD block as does TechN. I don’t think the GTS 360 is killing you on restriction as much as it just doesn’t have much more capability than an AIO. They are great as add ins to supplement a loop in a tight space but not as a stand alone solution. I have one myself. The restriction on that Isn’t nearly restrictive as the GTR 420 I run in the same loop that’s a double pass. Restriction is more about if you have enough pump power to overcome it and keep a decent flow rate. If I had a single D5 I’d be getting my a$$ handed to me with flow restrictions.

Good luck with your venture!

And yes the Phanteks blocks are easy on the eyes. If they had a back plate that would make a world of difference. I ran them for a few months waiting for the Heat Killer blocks to be ready to ship. The cards on air were just too hot to run in a closed case. I half to leave the door off or it sucked the hot air that was being dumped in my case through the rad making my loop temps higher than it is with the cards having blocks on them and in the loop. Not to mention heating up everything else inside the case. What happened to the good old days of the GPUs blowing the heat out the back? Here’s a pic of when I was running a pair of the Phanteks blocks. I was surprised by the build quality and fit/finish. Definitely top notch in that department. It’s just the back plate thing that killed them and like I said I found no back plate was better than the stock one that didn’t make any contact with anything other than the mounting posts. They actually held heat in. Don’t know what ASUS was thinking with this design.


----------



## Biggu

So out of curiosity, over the last few days, I've noticed that when my display goes to sleep my GPU temp rises till about 57-58C and stays there until I wake up my display. anyone else notice that? This is a 3090 strix. Ive updated the GPU's etc all that.


----------



## whaletail934

I'm sure this has been already been answered too many times to count, but since my my search didn't turn up any specific posts, I guess I have to ask the community anyway.

Can I rotate my new Optimus Foundation (AMD) block top, so that the ports are horizontal, without losing a ton of performance?

Or can I rotate both the top and coldplate within the bracket, to accomplish the same, while still maintaining the same ports to coldplate alignment?

Basically, vertical ports will be much more difficult to plumb efficiently, especially if the bottom (by default) port is meant to function as the inlet.

I know the Optimus product page mentions something about being able to rotate at least the top, but I'm new to watercooling, and want to confirm with the community before "breaking convention".

FWIW, I'm only cooling a 5600X, which doesn't, as far as I recall, feature the same chiplet layout as the 5900/5950X, and may not even benefit from a specific port layout.

Any help is much appreciated!

BTW, can someone confirm that the bottom port is the inlet by default?


----------



## LiquidHaus

whaletail934 said:


> FWIW, I'm only cooling a 5600X, which doesn't, as far as I recall, feature the same chiplet layout as the 5900/5950X, and may not even benefit from a specific port layout.
> 
> Any help is much appreciated!


Being that you're on a 5600X, it really doesn't make much heat for your orientation to matter much from my experience. I say orient/plumb your system to your heart's content.


----------



## dwolvin

I can answer some of it- the inlet is the port without fins visible. I believe it's the bottom on all of the AMD (but only 90%). And as far as the rotating, if you can fit the coldplate sideways, it should be fine to rotate it with the top but the water needs to flow along the fins, not across them. There will be a temperature difference, but it's most likely in the mild single digits range.


----------



## whaletail934

dwolvin said:


> I can answer some of it- the inlet is the port without fins visible. I believe it's the bottom on all of the AMD (but only 90%). And as far as the rotating, if you can fit the coldplate sideways, it should be fine to rotate it with the top but the water needs to flow along the fins, not across them. There will be a temperature difference, but it's most likely in the mild single digits range.


Thanks for confirming!
If I understand you correctly re: flowing along the fins, I should keep the ports parallel with the fins, which requires rotating both block and top.

Although I haven't done it yet, that shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## JustinThyme

whaletail934 said:


> Thanks for confirming!
> If I understand you correctly re: flowing along the fins, I should keep the ports parallel with the fins, which requires rotating both block and top.
> 
> Although I haven't done it yet, that shouldn't be a problem.


I think what you want to do is take rotate the whole thing within the mount if possible. As stated it wont have much effect on your particular CPU. I hate it when they build blocks like this. Nearly no one comes in on the left or does bottom to top. The bottom to top HK block worked OK on my intel build with a R6E MOBO because I came right out of the top outlet and into the separate VRM cooler. Other than that I prefer in on the right and out on the left but few companies make them that way. Thats one thing I do like about the EK magnitude. Just pop off the cold plate and reverse one piece and the in and out are swapped and I get flow right to left. I know you can do the same with the EK magnitude for AM4 and they are all horizontal, Even the TRX.
If you can flip the Optmus block it would be whats referred to as the "goofy" mount. I know it works with their acrylic intel blocks but they are side to side. You can just take out the 4 screws that holds the rest to the mount and flip it. You can also just turn the Siv V2 upside down to flip ports but then the logo is upside down.


----------



## dwolvin

whaletail934 said:


> Thanks for confirming!
> If I understand you correctly re: flowing along the fins, I should keep the ports parallel with the fins, which requires rotating both block and top.
> 
> Although I haven't done it yet, that shouldn't be a problem.


 Yep- lined up the way it is in the pic. Let us (well, me) know if you can assemble sideways!


----------



## LiquidHaus

KPE RENDER.


----------



## JustinThyme

dwolvin said:


> Yep- lined up the way it is in the pic. Let us (well, me) know if you can assemble sideways!


The actual block and top looks square and evenly spaced mount holes. I know looks can be deceiving but if that is in fact the case then its a simple task to go goofy mount. Take out the 4 screws, rotate 90 degrees, put screws back and done. Thats the only pitfall of AMD mounts. Intel you can turn it anyway you want, logo might end up not correctly oriented but that wont matter on how it works. Goofy mount doest work well with all CPUs. The higher the core density and placement of chiplets on AMD make it impossible on some chips to keep a decent cooling scheme without the cold plate being aligned how it needs to be. From what Ive seen the only thing you really have to worry about there is with TRX.

Maybe someone who has one can make measurements of the screws for the block top to the mount screws..


----------



## whaletail934

JustinThyme said:


> I think what you want to do is take rotate the whole thing within the mount if possible. As stated it wont have much effect on your particular CPU. I hate it when they build blocks like this. Nearly no one comes in on the left or does bottom to top. The bottom to top HK block worked OK on my intel build with a R6E MOBO because I came right out of the top outlet and into the separate VRM cooler. Other than that I prefer in on the right and out on the left but few companies make them that way. Thats one thing I do like about the EK magnitude. Just pop off the cold plate and reverse one piece and the in and out are swapped and I get flow right to left. I know you can do the same with the EK magnitude for AM4 and they are all horizontal, Even the TRX.
> If you can flip the Optmus block it would be whats referred to as the "goofy" mount. I know it works with their acrylic intel blocks but they are side to side. You can just take out the 4 screws that holds the rest to the mount and flip it. You can also just turn the Siv V2 upside down to flip ports but then the logo is upside down.


Other than figuring which size hex driver I needed to use to pop off the acrylic top, I had no problems. My Imperial Wera L wrench set didn't include the correct size, but a cheapo set I found in my garage thankfully did. Nonetheless, the size that eventually worked was 3/32", but I have a Wera 3/32" driver and the Wera L wrench set includes one as well, and neither worked, so I'm still confused as to the correct size. Maybe it's 7/64", and I had my 7/64" stored in the 3/32" slot, but whatever.

If you do use a cheap driver, be careful not to strip the heads. I had to go really slowly to maintain a good connection, but didn't have any other issues.

Once rotated, I also had to really tighten the top down on the bracket to seal it back up, but as long as you confirm the seal before assuming you're done, you shouldn't have any problems.

Removing the four phillips head screws to rotate the coldplate was trivial.

I too prefer top to bottom flow, with the inlet on the left (when facing the block), and I'm happy to see manufacturers providing the modularity to accommodate various tube runs.

I think I'll post a pic of my rotated block tomorrow, if only to confirm that I've correctly identified the inlet correctly.


----------



## iamjanco

@LiquidHaus Figured I'd let you know where the backplate stands for the KPE 3090:

I'll drill the screw holes myself (reflected in yellow) on the drill press, but all the other cutouts will be done by water jet or cnc:









As for the lip that goes around the edge of the plate where the small screw holes are, I'll use something like mylar plastic washers for the offset (haven't sourced them yet). 

The nice thing about doing this is now I'll be able to fasten anything I want to the backplate using countersunk holes on the inside of the plate. It'll make for a much tighter fit thermal-wise, and I won't have to drill any holes in the oem backplate.

Once I tighten up the specs, I'll submit the file for production.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

So it looks like optimus finally has flex fittings available. Ordered some but there is a quantity limit of 2 6 packs. I need 2 more 6 packs for the 2 upcoming builds I have planned. If I put a second order in to get around this is it getting cancelled?


----------



## LiquidHaus

iamjanco said:


> @LiquidHaus Figured I'd let you know where the backplate stands for the KPE 3090:
> 
> I'll drill the screw holes myself (reflected in yellow) on the drill press, but all the other cutouts will be done by water jet or cnc:
> View attachment 2518395
> 
> 
> As for the lip that goes around the edge of the plate where the small screw holes are, I'll use something like mylar plastic washers for the offset (haven't sourced them yet).
> 
> The nice thing about doing this is now I'll be able to fasten anything I want to the backplate using countersunk holes on the inside of the plate. It'll make for a much tighter fit thermal-wise, and I won't have to drill any holes in the oem backplate.
> 
> Once I tighten up the specs, I'll submit the file for production.


That's epic man, nice work on that! What is your solution that you have planned for an actively cooled attachment for your backplate then? For instance, I have one of those MP5 backplate blocks as well as a Bitspower HDD block. Both are quite different since the HDD block would be screwed into place while the MP5 block is meant to use the included hook and bungie system.


----------



## Section31

For those searching for GPU, don't give up hope. Memory Express called me about my backordered 3080Strix (Oct 2020 backorder) and my good friend really wanted to upgrade GPU so let him have it (didn't need otherwise). Friend got good deal, paid 1219cad per taxes (1366cad here).


----------



## dwolvin

Nice, that's about MSRP, correct?


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> That's epic man, nice work on that! What is your solution that you have planned for an actively cooled attachment for your backplate then? For instance, I have one of those MP5 backplate blocks as well as a Bitspower HDD block. Both are quite different since the HDD block would be screwed into place while the MP5 block is meant to use the included hook and bungie system.


Thanks. I'm actually checking out blocks specifically designed for the purpose now since doing away with the hybrid pump/block combo also does away with the need to access those four larger screw holes on the backplate. I could easily go as large as 150x80mm block-wise (e.g., here's a smaller, *Bitspower example*) . Heck, if I really wanted to go overboard, I could even surround the block with air cooled heat sinks (the whole backplate will be a solid 3-5mm thick piece of copper).

Anyway, haven't made up my mind yet about which block I'll attach to the backplate, but it'll be something I can tighten down using screws, and use quality tim like Kryonaut with. My preference of course would include a block that provides great flow and thermal conductivity/efficiency.

Lastly, also thinking about *bright nickel plating* the copper backplate once all cutting/drilling is done, as an anticorrosive (anti-tarnish) measure.

*Edit (added): *so I did some additional research online and I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with *Bitspower's BP-EVB3090* for the backplate. It ticks what needs ticking and will cover all of the VRAM. It's designed to be used with thermal pads which only cover the VRAM themselves on the reference 3090, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to improve on that mounting it directly to a sheet of plated copper using a quality TIM interface.

Only drawback is Taiwan's the only place it's available at the moment, and Bitspower wants $45 to ship the block to the US. I'll call them on Monday when they're open and request an invoice, which has resulted in better shipping options in the past.

*2nd edit (add): *as for the MP5WORKS block, there'd be a relatively simple mounting solution given what I described above. Instead of using their bungee cords mounting schema, I'd disassemble the block and reassemble it using longer screws through countersunk holes on the backplate as well. Again, would make for a much tighter fit and Kryonaut could be used in place of the thermal pads.

I might order one of them as well.

Anyway, ran the file I worked up through my waterjet cutter's online system, and it processed okay. I'll order the backplate this week (0.125" 310 copper):


----------



## Section31

Granzon 360° Multi-angle With Free Joint Fitting, Brass Adaptor G1/4" Rotary Connector, Revolvable Adjustable For Water Cooling GD-X


Buy Granzon 360° Multi-angle With Free Joint Fitting, Brass Adaptor G1/4" Rotary Connector, Revolvable Adjustable For Water Cooling GD-X and FormulaMod, Bykski, GPU Water Block, WaterCooling, etc.




www.formulamod.com





This is an interesting rotary fitting i will say.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shower head.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Shower head.


Ordered some in to try. One of my friends build moving ahead and i need parts to start ordering extra parts for him


----------



## acoustic

I need Alderlake. Holiday season needs to come sooner.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I need Alderlake. Holiday season needs to come sooner.


Im tempted to jump to but awaiting final results


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Im tempted to jump to but awaiting final results


My 10900K is a POS. I'm hoping the X299 successor drops pretty quick so that I can avoid the consumer platform all together. The leaked results are extremely promising for a very early sample chip with JEDEC DDR5 (slow as piss) and a low-end mobo. I think it's going to rock!


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> My 10900K is a POS. I'm hoping the X299 successor drops pretty quick so that I can avoid the consumer platform all together. The leaked results are extremely promising for a very early sample chip with JEDEC DDR5 (slow as piss) and a low-end mobo. I think it's going to rock!


I am tired of ryzen lol and i got the cooling to handle a lot. Already lot of ppl who want my 5950x etc lol


----------



## acoustic

I wouldn't touch a Ryzen. Maybe next-gen .. but I was not impressed at all with Ryzen outside of the nice improvements they made from chip to chip. Great that AMD is at least relevant again, but for gaming they really haven't done much to make me feel justified in the cost.


----------



## JustinThyme

acoustic said:


> I wouldn't touch a Ryzen. Maybe next-gen .. but I was not impressed at all with Ryzen outside of the nice improvements they made from chip to chip. Great that AMD is at least relevant again, but for gaming they really haven't done much to make me feel justified in the cost.


I’m trying to figure out the market segment myself. Not in data centers.


----------



## whynotb

Optimus WC said:


> Here's a question: does anyone want raw copper or raw brass finish? Anyone interested in a line of pure copper fittings, rather than brass and, ahem, mystery brass?


Good day.

I was always interested in buying raw copper/brass fittings. Sure i'm not alone.

I have a question, last friday i ordered ftw3 block with black backplate because it was available. Will silver backplate will be available before ftw3 block will be rady for shipping?

Now i have an answer for my question. I got email from Optimus that my ftw3 block is on the way and a track number. That was pretty fast.


----------



## JustinThyme

That’s most likely because the backlog on that block (first one they did) is cleared. Now try and order a strix block.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> That’s most likely because the backlog on that block (first one they did) is cleared. Now try and order a strix block.


Lol. I am probably number 1 on strix list lol


----------



## dwolvin

Did anyone send them a Strix?


----------



## Biggu

dwolvin said:


> Did anyone send them a Strix?


They have one. I tried to send them mine and they said they have one already.


----------



## dwolvin

Nice.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Nice.


Just be patient its probably coming soon. Good thing i bought an bitspower block to hold me over.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, I have a really good 1080ti, I really don't need to update yet. And when I do, I really want something with a shorter waterblock. I notice many of the Zotek cards have EK blocks that are only a little over 20cm, and that would work really nicely in my case.


----------



## chibi

Figured this group would appreciate the best Dual D5 top being available to order brand new, EK-D5 Dual TOP G1/4 CSQ.
Very rarely has this product been available in the last few years, even in used condition. There's two left for anyone interested.









EKWB EK-Quantum Vector RTX 3080/3090 GPU Water Block, Digital RGB, Nickel/Acetal | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for EKWB EK-Quantum Vector RTX 3080/3090 GPU Water Block, Digital RGB, Nickel/Acetal at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.ca


----------



## GraphicsWhore

whynotb said:


> Good day.
> 
> I was always interested in buying raw copper/brass fittings. Sure i'm not alone.
> 
> I have a question, last friday i ordered ftw3 block with black backplate because it was available. Will silver backplate will be available before ftw3 block will be rady for shipping?
> 
> Now i have an answer for my question. I got email from Optimus that my ftw3 block is on the way and a track number. That was pretty fast.


Someone told me it was like 4-6 weeks after ordering for shipping? I already ordered an EK and backplate but will sell them sealed if I can manage to snag a FTW3 on Friday. Did you just randomly go on the site and get one or did you have to start refreshing the page right before noon?


----------



## Fluxmaven

GraphicsWhore said:


> Someone told me it was like 4-6 weeks after ordering for shipping? I already ordered an EK and backplate but will sell them sealed if I can manage to snag a FTW3 on Friday. Did you just randomly go on the site and get one or did you have to start refreshing the page right before noon?


I was also expecting a delay so I had mine shipped to a friend in the state I'll be moving to soon. Ordered the 2nd, got shipping notification the 14th, was delivered the 16th. I would say the earlier the better. I got on right on at noon because I wanted to get the silver backplate. The week prior I didn't check until an hour or so later and they only had the black backplates.


----------



## arvinz

Finally.


----------



## LiquidHaus

iamjanco said:


> Anyway, ran the file I worked up through my waterjet cutter's online system, and it processed okay. I'll order the backplate this week (0.125" 310 copper):


Hey man, tried to PM you but can't because reasons. But maybe shoot me a PM? I'm down to get one of those backplates made as well.

Thanks!


----------



## ilal2ielli

arvinz said:


> Finally.


Nice. Me too.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Figured this group would appreciate the best Dual D5 top being available to order brand new, EK-D5 Dual TOP G1/4 CSQ.
> Very rarely has this product been available in the last few years, even in used condition. There's two left for anyone interested.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EKWB EK-Quantum Vector RTX 3080/3090 GPU Water Block, Digital RGB, Nickel/Acetal | eBay
> 
> 
> Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for EKWB EK-Quantum Vector RTX 3080/3090 GPU Water Block, Digital RGB, Nickel/Acetal at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.ca


PPCS doesn’t have fedex shipping only ups is cheap option. Not sure how to order from them going forward except pay for expensive usps.


----------



## whynotb

GraphicsWhore said:


> Did you just randomly go on the site and get one or did you have to start refreshing the page right before noon?


I randomly checked ftw3 block product page around 17:00 (UTC time), block was available for order. Afer some time product page showed sold out, after some time available for order again. I bought mine at 18:23 (UTC time).


----------



## GraphicsWhore

whynotb said:


> I randomly checked ftw3 block product page around 17:00 (UTC time), block was available for order. Afer some time product page showed sold out, after some time available for order again. I bought mine at 18:23 (UTC time).


Thanks. I’ve checked intermittently over past few days but will try to check more often.


----------



## whynotb

GraphicsWhore said:


> I’ve checked intermittently over past few days


I checked at friday as product page suggests.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

whynotb said:


> I checked at friday as product page suggests.


Oh gotcha. Thanks again. Does your order have estimated shipping time? I’m getting my EK block tomorrow and wondering if I can hold out and just sell it unopened in lieu of getting an Otptimus.


----------



## whynotb

GraphicsWhore said:


> Does your order have estimated shipping time?


I maid a payment for ftw3 block at friday 23 of july. Optimus WC send me a track number at monday 26 of july.


----------



## Section31

whynotb said:


> I maid a payment for ftw3 block at friday 23 of july. Optimus WC send me a track number at monday 26 of july.


You will get it fast. Dhl is what they use.


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> Hey man, tried to PM you but can't because reasons. But maybe shoot me a PM? I'm down to get one of those backplates made as well.


Yeah, I set PMs to only those I'm following long ago (they should work for you now). But the waterjet cutter has already assigned a shipping number to my order.

I'd recommend waiting and seeing what I get from him, just to ensure my measurements are copesetic. I'm pretty sure they're reasonably close if not right on, but if I have to fudge anything I have the tools here to do that. Also, it comes unfinished more or less (I opted for a prep-pad treatment) so I know there'll be some sanding elbow grease involved (down to 3,000/5,000 grit) in prep for the nickel plating. I'll drill holes before I do that though. Lastly, while he can be expensive on one-off's (I paid for one), the price drops a good deal on quantities of five or more.

Btw, I did order a serial block from MP5Works (it's on its way as well). What I'll do is disassemble it once I get it, then reassemble it using longer flathead screws which will attach it to the backplate. Again, no need for bungee cords that way, the fit will be tighter, and I'll be able to use Kryonaut instead of thermal pads.

Just noticed I didn't share a pic in this thread of the actual plate I ordered, so here it is (110 copper, 0.125 inch thick):










The "EVGA" is a cut out, not engraving.


----------



## whynotb

Section31 said:


> Dhl is what they use.


I choose shipping to US adress via USPS. To a forward shipping company that will ship my block to Russia and handle russian customs duty, fees, documents etc. I assume UPS and DHL will pass all work with russian customs on me: go 2000 miles to a customs office, do paper work etc (don't know for sure, just what i read).


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> PPCS doesn’t have fedex shipping only ups is cheap option. Not sure how to order from them going forward except pay for expensive usps.


WHAAA They stopped having fed ex as a shipping option to Canada?? When??


----------



## Biggu

arvinz said:


> Finally.


Son of a gun! hope mine ships soon!!


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Son of a gun! hope mine ships soon!!


Should be soon lol.


----------



## Section31

The Strix block looks they implemented some more improvement maybe. The chamber in the bottom is wider than the ftw3 one.


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> PPCS doesn’t have fedex shipping only ups is cheap option. Not sure how to order from them going forward except pay for expensive usps.


I ordered it on ebay, Jul 14 and received it last night. Paid $32 for shipping and brokerage fee upfront through ebay's global shipping program. Definitely not the quickest, or cost effective price but this is a spare part that I was in no hurry to get.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> I ordered it on ebay, Jul 14 and received it last night. Paid $32 for shipping and brokerage fee upfront through ebay's global shipping program. Definitely not the quickest, or cost effective price but this is a spare part that I was in no hurry to get.


Nice. I am waiting for PPCS/Modmymods to stock up on Mayhem XTR 4nm White Again. Not paying for mayhem uk shipping again.


----------



## LiquidHaus

iamjanco said:


> Yeah, I set PMs to only those I'm following long ago (they should work for you now). But the waterjet cutter has already assigned a shipping number to my order.
> 
> I'd recommend waiting and seeing what I get from him, just to ensure my measurements are copesetic. I'm pretty sure they're reasonably close if not right on, but if I have to fudge anything I have the tools here to do that. Also, it comes unfinished more or less (I opted for a prep-pad treatment) so I know there'll be some sanding elbow grease involved (down to 3,000/5,000 grit) in prep for the nickel plating. I'll drill holes before I do that though. Lastly, while he can be expensive on one-off's (I paid for one), the price drops a good deal on quantities of five or more.
> 
> Btw, I did order a serial block from MP5Works (it's on its way as well). What I'll do is disassemble it once I get it, then reassemble it using longer flathead screws which will attach it to the backplate. Again, no need for bungee cords that way, the fit will be tighter, and I'll be able to use Kryonaut instead of thermal pads.


Sounds good, my friend! I hear ya on the expense for one-off projects. We should get a small group buy setup or something then. I was wondering how you were gonna go about the screw holes themselves for the backplate, but it seems like you'll just be hand drilling them. I'm wondering if we can get them cut while the rest of the backplate is.

I'll be installing the Hydro Copper block today on my KPE since I'm tired of waiting around for Optimus, plus I got multiple companies waiting on me for this rebuild.

I have some 2mm Thermal Right and 2mm EKWB thermal pads that I will be swapping out on the HC block since they give you crap thermal puddy. I will also be checking out what I can do for the backside since I'll still have the stock KPE backplate.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Sounds good, my friend! I hear ya on the expense for one-off projects. We should get a small group buy setup or something then. I was wondering how you were gonna go about the screw holes themselves for the backplate, but it seems like you'll just be hand drilling them. I'm wondering if we can get them cut while the rest of the backplate is.
> 
> I'll be installing the Hydro Copper block today on my KPE since I'm tired of waiting around for Optimus, plus I got multiple companies waiting on me for this rebuild.
> 
> I have some 2mm Thermal Right and 2mm EKWB thermal pads that I will be swapping out on the HC block since they give you crap thermal puddy. I will also be checking out what I can do for the backside since I'll still have the stock KPE backplate.


Show us results from your build. Hopefully, we see the final V3000+ by end of the year. Looking forwards to our collaboration on an project.


----------



## lostsupper

arvinz said:


> Finally.


Just some data for anybody else in the same boat: I also ordered on June 10th. My order (#OP4717) is still showing as unfulfilled.


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> Sounds good, my friend! I hear ya on the expense for one-off projects. We should get a small group buy setup or something then. I was wondering how you were gonna go about the screw holes themselves for the backplate, but it seems like you'll just be hand drilling them. *I'm wondering if we can get them cut while the rest of the backplate is.*
> 
> I'll be installing the Hydro Copper block today on my KPE since I'm tired of waiting around for Optimus, plus I got multiple companies waiting on me for this rebuild.
> 
> I have some 2mm Thermal Right and 2mm EKWB thermal pads that I will be swapping out on the HC block since they give you crap thermal puddy. I will also be checking out what I can do for the backside since I'll still have the stock KPE backplate.


I've already got placeholders for the screw holes in my artwork, but figured it best to drill them myself first simply because the plate I'm making is more or a less a prototype which needs an accuracy check. Additionally, chamfering the holes on the inside and outside of the backplate can't be done accurately using a waterjet cutter. You'd have to go CNC to do that properly and it'd be an extra few steps in the CNC process (the two sides of the plate). Then there's setting up the artwork/stl file for CNC, which would be a lot more work.

Let us know how you make out with the HC block. That's what I'm using for the time being as well.


----------



## Shawnb99

KPE Blocks are live
only $598 

*








Signature GPU Block - Kingpin 3090


The Optimus Signature Kingpin block is here! Our first ever Signature GPU block is designed to take advantage of the EVGA Kingpin's extreme performance. We've put everything into this block, and then some. And you asked for the ultimate block with an active backplate to match, so we're launching...




optimuspc.com




*


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC When can I send my card in? Will you respond to a ****ing email already?


----------



## iamjanco

Thanks for the heads up, Shawn!

We knew it was going to be expensive. I figure at least two months (if not longer) before it arrives:










Btw, using my Discover Card via Paypal gets me 5% back. It's Paypal Quarter for Discover.


----------



## Shawnb99

Still disappointing there was no advance announcement or anything. Page just went up with no notice whatever. Only saw a random post on the EVGA forum. No idea how long it's been live


----------



## Section31

Wow


----------



## criskoe

Jesus that thing is a monster! I love the whole PCB coverage. But the bottom half acrylic looks a little funny to me. Prolly best tho as Im sure that thing is gunna weigh a ton.. I can hear PCI E slots crying already. LOL... Still dam nice tho.


----------



## chibi

Traditional horizontal mounts will probably want some support bracket/stand as well. That things looks heavy af.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Traditional horizontal mounts will probably want some support bracket/stand as well. That things looks heavy af.


Caselabs s8 perfect for.


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> Still disappointing there was no advance announcement or anything. Page just went up with no notice whatever. Only saw a random post on the EVGA forum. No idea how long it's been live


Yeah, hard to say when they went live with it, but I did check their site a few days back. No mention of the 'drop' on their Twitter or Facebook pages.


----------



## HyperMatrix

That’s upsetting. No notice and preorders are sold out.

Edit: nvm. Can add to cart once you select the nickel/active backplate options. Thank freaking God. I can’t wait.

Edit 2: Only 8 orders have been placed for this block so far. Good chance of getting one in the first wave still.


----------



## iamjanco

Some _interesting_ additional info for the KPE block:

*Thermal Pads*



> Front thermal pads: *Fujipoly - GR45* - 0.5mm
> Thermal Conductivity Watt/m•K Hot Disk *4.5W/m-K*
> 
> Rear thermal pad: *Fujipoly - PG25* - 3.0mm
> Silicone compound with double sticky surfaces and Thermal Conductivity of PG25A material is *2.8W/m-K* by using Hot Wire (*2.5W/m-K* by using Hot Disk)


KPX paste is also included with the block.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, yes, the Kingpin page is live! Not sure how that one guy found the page, it was just posted for testing late last night, he must have a gpu bot to notify him  But since people have found it, we're opening up orders "early" -- so if you're here, you're the first!

We've been heads-down on development and some other projects, so we'll be back to answering emails today, sorry about the lack of communication, but many exciting things are in the works!

@Shawnb99 Once we get close to the actual ship date, we'll get it handled, we don't want to sit on it without a rock-solid ETA, it honestly doesn't take long to do


----------



## acoustic

$600 for a block.. Jesus Christ..


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, yes, the Kingpin page is live! Not sure how that one guy found the page, it was just posted for testing late last night, he must have a gpu bot to notify him  But since people have found it, we're opening up orders "early" -- so if you're here, you're the first!


Sweet!! Yeah it’s a bit late to take it back now.



acoustic said:


> $600 for a block.. Jesus Christ..


It’s more like two blocks due to the active backplate. Plus it’s a $2000 card what’s another $600


----------



## acoustic

I guess that's one way to look at it LOL


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Just bought one


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Dip switches under the backplate  wish these we had access to those.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC as others have mentioned it appears access to the dip switches are blocked with the card, will this be addressed before you finalize the block?


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC as others have mentioned it appears access to the dip switches are blocked with the card, will this be addressed before you finalize the block?


So the dip switches need to be set before installing the block. From our perspective, no reason not to flip the "more power" switches and just leave them on, since that's the purpose of the card in the first place.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> So the dip switches need to be set before installing the block. From our perspective, no reason not to flip the "more power" switches and just leave them on, since that's the purpose of the card in the first place.


Good explanation for me. This is going to look amazing vertically and upside down


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, yes, the Kingpin page is live! Not sure how that one guy found the page, it was just posted for testing late last night, he must have a gpu bot to notify him  But since people have found it, we're opening up orders "early" -- so if you're here, you're the first!
> 
> We've been heads-down on development and some other projects, so we'll be back to answering emails today, sorry about the lack of communication, but many exciting things are in the works!
> 
> @Shawnb99 Once we get close to the actual ship date, we'll get it handled, we don't want to sit on it without a rock-solid ETA, it honestly doesn't take long to do


Eagerly awaiting those new in development products


----------



## asdf893

Ordered 3 KPE blocks across 2 orders. What is the thickness of the terminal? And could you provide a spare terminal with each of my blocks? If not I'll cancel my orders. I want to machine the spare terminals to do 3x parallel KPEs. Yes I know flow per block will be diminished.


----------



## Optimus WC

asdf893 said:


> Ordered 3 KPE blocks across 2 orders. What is the thickness of the terminal? And could you provide a spare terminal with each of my blocks? If not I'll cancel my orders. I want to machine the spare terminals to do 3x parallel KPEs. Yes I know flow per block will be diminished.


Yeah we can prob figure something out. You want to do all front and rear blocks in parallel? Or front on one loop, rear on a second?

As for flow, the rear is much higher flow than the front for the simple reason there is a finned cold plate on the front.


----------



## asdf893

Optimus WC said:


> Yeah we can prob figure something out. You want to do all front and rear blocks in parallel? Or front on one loop, rear on a second?
> 
> As for flow, the rear is much higher flow than the front for the simple reason there is a finned cold plate on the front.


I guess rear will get a disproportionate flow compared to the front? My intention is all 1 loop, water paralleling past the 3 gpu/backplate blocks on its way to the vrm+cpu block at the end of the loop.


----------



## Shawnb99

asdf893 said:


> Ordered 3 KPE blocks across 2 orders. What is the thickness of the terminal? And could you provide a spare terminal with each of my blocks? If not I'll cancel my orders. I want to machine the spare terminals to do 3x parallel KPEs. Yes I know flow per block will be diminished.



What are you using 3 KPE's for?


----------



## chibi

Minecraft 9000+ fps


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Yeah we can prob figure something out. You want to do all front and rear blocks in parallel? Or front on one loop, rear on a second?
> 
> As for flow, the rear is much higher flow than the front for the simple reason there is a finned cold plate on the front.


Also great thank you for coming with strix blocks. Hopefully dhl can send out the block today.


----------



## Optimus WC

asdf893 said:


> I guess rear will get a disproportionate flow compared to the front? My intention is all 1 loop, water paralleling past the 3 gpu/backplate blocks on its way to the vrm+cpu block at the end of the loop.


Nice build  

We've designed a parallel terminal though it requires more pump pressure to overcome the resistance discrepancy. We haven't tested it out, but if you're not having issues with your current setup then you should be fine, I imagine.


----------



## Shawnb99

How noticeable is the KPE logo going to be? It's Inlet left and outlet right side? Does this apply to the backplate as well


----------



## Gunslinger.

$600... nope.


----------



## Shawnb99

Gunslinger. said:


> $600... nope.
> View attachment 2519172



Better hope you can find a Hydrocopper before they sell out then or be stuck with the AIO.


----------



## Gunslinger.

Shawnb99 said:


> Better hope you can find a Hydrocopper before they sell out then or be stuck with the AIO.


Already have it on stand by, was just waiting for the final nail in the Optimus coffin.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC do you guys have any KPE Hydro blocks to test out against your block? If not you want one, I'll gladly send mine


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> How noticeable is the KPE logo going to be? It's Inlet left and outlet right side? Does this apply to the backplate as well


The KPE logo is exactly what's in the renders for now, unless we change it  For inlet/outlet, it's a series terminal top, so only two ports will be used, the other two get plugged. Here's the path:


----------



## Shawnb99

Ah nice. I'm indecisive on the logo. For me it'll be upside down if I go vertical so less is better to me. I wouldn't be surprised if I was the only one with that setup.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> So the dip switches need to be set before installing the block. From our perspective, no reason not to flip the "more power" switches and just leave them on, since that's the purpose of the card in the first place.


This is unfortunate. It would have been nice to switch between the standard 520W bios and the 1000W bios without having to reflash the card each time. Or if a flash went wrong being able to switch to another bios to boot up and fix it instead of having to dismantle your loop and your GPU just to flip the switch.... 

Was this skipped just because you thought it was unnecessary or was there some big technical issue that prevented you from doing it? I think for the majority of people dip switch access is more important than nvlink access.


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> This is unfortunate. It would have been nice to switch between the standard 520W bios and the 1000W bios without having to reflash the card each time. Or if a flash went wrong being able to switch to another bios to boot up and fix it instead of having to dismantle your loop and your GPU just to flip the switch....
> 
> Was this skipped just because you thought it was unnecessary or was there some big technical issue that prevented you from doing it? I think for the majority of people dip switch access is more important than nvlink access.


The bios switch (and control header) is still accessible, it's on the top. The back dip switches are only for voltage increase, which should always be "on." Our guess is it's an nvidia compliance thing, they couldn't ship with boosted voltages.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> The bios switch (and control header) is still accessible, it's on the top. The back dip switches are only for voltage increase, which should always be "on." Our guess is it's an nvidia compliance thing, they couldn't ship with boosted voltages.
> 
> View attachment 2519190


My bad in mistaking the bios switch for the dip switches. Sorry for taking up production time. Get back to making my block. . Haha.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

lostsupper said:


> Just some data for anybody else in the same boat: I also ordered on June 10th. My order (#OP4717) is still showing as unfulfilled.


Ok so now I'm unclear again: is this only applicable to Strix block or is it possible there's this long of a wait for fulfillment on a FTW3 if I was lucky enough to snag one on Friday? Or is it not known? I'm not waiting a month+ for a block when I already have one that I don't think I can even return unopened.


----------



## Optimus WC

GraphicsWhore said:


> Ok so now I'm unclear again: is this only applicable to Strix block or is it possible there's this long of a wait for fulfillment on a FTW3 if I was lucky enough to snag one on Friday? Or is it not known? I'm not waiting a month+ for a block when I already have one that I don't think I can even return unopened.


I don't have the full info in front of me, but each type of block is on its own timeline, since different parts get done at different times. 

And you can always return unused blocks, gpu life is crazy right now, so no big deal


----------



## iamjanco

Optimus WC said:


> The bios switch (and control header) is still accessible, it's on the top. The back dip switches are only for voltage increase, which should always be "on." Our guess is it's an nvidia compliance thing, they couldn't ship with boosted voltages.
> 
> View attachment 2519190


*this post* (also shared below) by @0451 lends a bit more info about why the voltage dip switches.



> The NVVDD dips add +50mv each to core voltage. I'm not sure how much the FBVDD or MSVDD add. The LLC dips allow me another 15mhz core stability so I leave them on all the time. The dip switches control the same parameters as the sliders in the Classified tool. Vince (Kingpin) said he doesn't use them, but I prefer them over the Classified tool because its buggy. Sometimes I'll open up the classified tool and it will set LLC to 0, other times it sets it to 1. It always sets MSVDD to 0.9, which is too low and I have no idea what the default should be. The dips switches can also be used for changing the parameters during a run. If for example the first seconds of PR need higher voltage, but this causes heat buildup later in the run, the dipswitches can help.
> 
> Plus, I just like dip switches. They are a fun way to overclock. As a kid, my first custom build using the original Athlon required a dip switch tool to be attached directly to the CPU to enable overclocking.


While the following info applies to the 2080 KPE, it lends a bit more of an explanation as to what those switches actually do:

*source*

*



V-Tune onboard switches

Click to expand...

*


> There are few hardware switches accessible on the back. These allow some fine-tuning for power controller. These work completely independent from software/BIOS and in real-time. OFSG switch bumps actual delivery to GPU core by two small steps, either +25 mV or +50 mV (with both switches ON). Loadline switches MEMLL and GPULL allow trimming droop that may fit particular benchmark/GPU better, depends on running conditions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normal overclocking with watercooling or even mild chiller setup not expected to have a need in any of these switches. They are rather an additional option for fine-tuning when doing serious extreme overclocking, than a requirement for everyday daily driver OC.


----------



## Optimus WC

So the dip switches are the same as the software sliders. If there was an OC knob, that'd be a different story.


----------



## iamjanco

Optimus WC said:


> *So the dip switches are the same as the software sliders.* If there was an OC knob, that'd be a different story.


Fundamentally, yes. Not sure if people are still experiencing issues using the Classified tool though. That's why I pinged @0451 (he might know more).


----------



## Section31

Friends Block came in. Something seems off about aquacomputer block. It doesn’t feel as good as watercool one even. Will have the optimus strix block today to compare


----------



## geriatricpollywog

iamjanco said:


> Fundamentally, yes. Not sure if people are still experiencing issues using the Classified tool though. That's why I pinged @0451 (he might know more).


As far as I know. This article by TiN describes the 2080ti K|NGP|N dip switches.



https://xdevs.com/guide/2080ti_kpe/



I get about 30mhz of core stability with both voltage dips and one LLC dip ON. Could this hurt the longevity of the card? Possibly. But I have the 10 year extended warranty and using the dips will not void this.

Vince (K|NGP|N) said during the GN/Jayz2Cents livestream that he uses the Classified tool instead.

I don’t use the classified tool because you have to re-apply the settings when you restart the computer. This is fine for LN2 but not for daily use.


----------



## iamjanco

^Thanks for the info!


----------



## Section31




----------



## Biggu

Damn that looks so good! Im ready for mine to ship!


----------



## GAN77

I wonder what is the minimum thickness of a cold plate GPU Block along the groove?


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2519208


Looking hot!!



GAN77 said:


> I wonder what is the minimum thickness of a cold plate GPU Block along the groove?


Where now?


----------



## GAN77

Optimus WC said:


> Where now?


Schematically


----------



## Optimus WC

GAN77 said:


> Schematically


Ah, I don't remember off the top of my head but it's very thin, so thin one shouldn't try to lap it.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Ah, I don't remember off the top of my head but it's very thin, so thin one shouldn't try to lap it.


I noticed now that the thermal pads are cut for the size versus the ftw3. I guess you changed from the full length that we had to cut individually. Good thing i still have excess fuji sarcon ordered for the evga advanced rma repair


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> I noticed now that the thermal pads are cut for the size versus the ftw3. I guess you changed from the full length that we had to cut individually. Good thing i still have excess fuji sarcon ordered for the evga advanced rma repair


We typically cut them to size, though we've done it a few different ways, mostly due to how annoying it is to deal with thermal pads 

Also, Strix instructions, let me know if any of this doesn't make sense:


----------



## Altimax98

I just wanted to say that I love my Optimus blocks (even if the Intel Foundation block seal is hard to get perfect if you have to remove the top). 

My 3080 FTW3 with the 450w BIOS pushing well over 430w in Port Royal sequential tests is never out of 5c delta from the coolant temps, I did use Liquid Metal (Conductonaut) but its still a strong testament to how great they are built.


----------



## Optimus WC

Altimax98 said:


> I just wanted to say that I love my Optimus blocks (even if the Intel Foundation block seal is hard to get perfect if you have to remove the top).
> 
> My 3080 FTW3 with the 450w BIOS pushing well over 430w in Port Royal sequential tests is never out of 5c delta from the coolant temps, I did use Liquid Metal (Conductonaut) but its still a strong testament to how great they are built.
> 
> View attachment 2519251


Nice! And sweet color scheme there


----------



## tbrown7552

Shawnb99 said:


> KPE Blocks are live
> only $598


Im going to assume you are first or pretty close to it. Do you mind sharing your order number? Im curious as to how far back i am.


----------



## Shawnb99

tbrown7552 said:


> Im going to assume you are first or pretty close to it. Do you mind sharing your order number? Im curious as to how far back i am.


Order #OP5209


----------



## tbrown7552

Shawnb99 said:


> Order #OP5209


OP5268 here. I saw it about 2 hours you posted it here.


----------



## iamjanco

Order #OP5210 here.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Ah, I don't remember off the top of my head but it's very thin, so thin one shouldn't try to lap it.


Beautiful block installed. Have question the white area are there suppose to be thermal pads. I installed all the thermal pads pads and i remember even the ftw3 needed thermal pads on the white area.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> Order #OP5209


5214 here. In my excitement I forgot to thank you for posting it. Without your post who knows how far back in the queue I’d have been. It was greatly appreciated. 👍


----------



## Section31




----------



## Shawnb99

The XTR doesn't look as white as I expected. I can now see why they said it looked like sperm. Now I really wish they offered more colors


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> The XTR doesn't look as white as I expected. I can now see why they said it looked like sperm. Now I really wish they offered more colors


They said add some mayhem pastel white. Its an good coolant though


----------



## Biggu

Shawnb99 said:


> I can now see why they said it looked like sperm.


took the words right outta my head.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> took the words right outta my head.


I got tired of seeing material in my loop so this is way to hide it. Though it turns out the gunk is likely from bp brass tubing. Even fitting etc appear fine now


----------



## anr11

@Optimus WC Are FTW blocks going up for pre-order today? I finally have a card on the way and am ready to order ASAP. Thanks.


----------



## anr11

@Optimus WC That was fast! The went up like a minute after I posted LOL. Order number is OP5338. Could you please have it assembled with the extra black gasket and o-rings that I ordered and send the white set along with it?


----------



## tps3443

Gunslinger. said:


> Already have it on stand by, was just waiting for the final nail in the Optimus coffin.


Im not that impressed with my 3090 Kingpin Hydro copper block. It works ok. I’m certainly considering the Optimus block though. $598 is really expensive. But I know it’d be worth it after mounting it up, and seeing those marvelous temps.


----------



## tps3443

@Optimus WC what kind of delta will the Optimus Kingpin 3090 block offer with active backplate cooling?

My Kingpin HC is not that great. I average around 52C at 2160/23,000 in Cyberpunk 2077.

My ambient temps are 25C usually.


Also, I see that you include Fujipoly thermal pads too! Very nice.

I love my Optimus Signature V2 which is on an old direct die 7980XE, so I certainly trust this block will be a performer.


----------



## HyperMatrix

tps3443 said:


> Im not that impressed with my 3090 Kingpin Hydro copper block. It works ok. I’m certainly considering the Optimus block though. $598 is really expensive. But I know it’d be worth it after mounting it up, and seeing those marvelous temps.


Technically only $359 for a comparable offering to the HC block (block + nickel + no backplate). Remember the HC block doesn't come with a backplate. It uses your existing one. So you can't even drill holes in it to mount a ram block for backside cooling without voiding your warranty. And they're charging $300 for it. And the HC block from EVGA is pure garbage. Very thin and light and barely better performance than the Hybrid AIO with upgraded fans. I bought an FTW3 3090 with the HC block and temperatures on it were horrible. The KPE block is prettier but it's the same design.

And in terms of performance, this will be leaps and bounds better than the HC block. Though I understand that the only order option available now is the $598 full front and active backplate with nickel....it's unfair to compare that price directly to the garbage $300 HC block that doesn't even come with a backplate. I think comparing price vs. performance you get, the Optimus block is actually _cheaper_.



tps3443 said:


> My Kingpin HC is not that great. I average around 52C at 2160/23,000 in Cyberpunk 2077.


Yeah at those temps that's not really even a block.  My Hybrid KPE with furious vardar fans maxes out around 46-47C at 2130/22222. With 25C water and liquid metal, I think you can safely expect under 40C. Based on performance reports on other Optimus blocks, I dare say you could even see under 35C with 25C water and sufficient flow.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> They said add some mayhem pastel white. Its an good coolant though


I used the Ice Dragon Nano Coolant before. Super white. Looks really good for a few months before it starts to stain everything. Had to put my QDC fittings in an ultrasonic cleaner to get them to close again because the particles in it were causing them so stay open. I also tried the Mayhem's UV Black and it looked weird and definitely not black at the mixture levels they wanted. So I said eff it. Bought me some EPDM and Mayhem's XT Nuke V2 Clear. Supposed to have 5 year lifespan if you don't have plasticizer leaching into it. Running a couple AC UltiTube reservoirs as well which have filters on them to capture any shavings or other debris that might get into the loop. Toss in a bunch of Koolance QDCs and you've got yourself a maintenance free rig for a few years that you can swap components out of without draining or dismantling. Simplicity.


----------



## iamjanco

The prototype copper backplate I laid out for the KPE showed up today and pretty much lines up with the oem backplate ( ± a fraction of a millimeter in a couple of places; nothing I can't fine tune). It'll work and I'll use it with an MP5WORKS block secured by screws while I'm waiting on the Optimus active block:










It's a heavy sucker!

Anyway, it's time for some...


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I used the Ice Dragon Nano Coolant before. Super white. Looks really good for a few months before it starts to stain everything. Had to put my QDC fittings in an ultrasonic cleaner to get them to close again because the particles in it were causing them so stay open. I also tried the Mayhem's UV Black and it looked weird and definitely not black at the mixture levels they wanted. So I said eff it. Bought me some EPDM and Mayhem's XT Nuke V2 Clear. Supposed to have 5 year lifespan if you don't have plasticizer leaching into it. Running a couple AC UltiTube reservoirs as well which have filters on them to capture any shavings or other debris that might get into the loop. Toss in a bunch of Koolance QDCs and you've got yourself a maintenance free rig for a few years that you can swap components out of without draining or dismantling. Simplicity.


Basically my build absolutely perfect to maintain yet i maintain an element of hard tubing.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Ordered the FTW3, I'm pumped! Glad I left my EK block and backplate in the shipping box unopened - I'll return for a 10% restocking fee and either use my blocked 2080Ti or maybe fire up the FTW3 80Ti on air until the Optimus.

I ordered the black backplate but in touch with Optimus to maybe switch for the silver. Having a hard time deciding because my theme is blue/black and chrome (brass tubing). I was thinking the satin silver is too unlike chrome to really fit so i kind of defaulted to the black but Amber at Optimus sent me some pics of the silver and looking at it here it may work just as well as the black aesthetically. I know, first world problems...


----------



## Optimus WC

RE KPE Performance, it'll be better than our other blocks. So with the Strix it's a sub 10c delta over water temps. FTW3 measures 8c but that's because the EVGA ICX is 2c too happy. 

And we do those tests with the 1000w bios, pushed as far as we can go.

With the KPE Block and rear waterblock, it cools more than just the VRAM. We will publish numbers soon, but it'll be better in every area, including the die. And def give more headroom for big overclocking. We're excited to see people beat typical LN2 numbers


----------



## GraphicsWhore

@Optimus WC Do you recommend sag brackets for cards sitting horizontally? It looks like a heavy ass block. I'm in a Thermaltake P5 receiving a FTW3.


----------



## Optimus WC

GraphicsWhore said:


> @Optimus WC Do you recommend sag brackets for cards sitting horizontally? It looks like a heavy ass block. I'm in a Thermaltake P5 receiving a FTW3.


The FTW3 can work without a bracket, though it could sag, which is more a case consideration. 

Brackets are always good in any build imo, the Lian Li mobo mount one is pretty solid: https://lian-li.com/product/gb-001/


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> The FTW3 can work without a bracket, though it could sag, which is more a case consideration.
> 
> Brackets are always good in any build imo, the Lian Li mobo mount one is pretty solid: https://lian-li.com/product/gb-001/


I see you guys made design changes. Any explanation for them. Also one question, Is this suppose to be part of change.









It never fulls up to max. When on its like this


----------



## Optimus WC

Are you referring to the design of how it looks vs the FTW3 block? The strix pcb is really different than any other on the market (except the tuf) so it has a really unusual design, most visible where the gasket lines are all parallel to each other. 

For the air bubble, turning the PC will get it out. Or increasing pump power. The air bubble is less an issue with the strix design than the ftw3 block, so it should clear with a little movement or pump power.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Are you referring to the design of how it looks vs the FTW3 block? The strix pcb is really different than any other on the market (except the tuf) so it has a really unusual design, most visible where the gasket lines are all parallel to each other.
> 
> For the air bubble, turning the PC will get it out. Or increasing pump power. The air bubble is less an issue with the strix design than the ftw3 block, so it should clear with a little movement or pump power.


Thanks. Meant the four litte corners. Curius what they were for. I’m working on that part slowly. Just unlucky.


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> Thanks. Meant the four litte corners. Curius what they were for. I’m working on that part slowly. Just unlucky.


Ah, those are also on the other blocks, they're just more prominent on the strix. they're just flow paths in the acrylic to get the fluid over the inductors/chokes because theyre so freakin tall.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Ah, those are also on the other blocks, they're just more prominent on the strix. they're just flow paths in the acrylic to get the fluid over the inductors/chokes because theyre so freakin tall.


Thanks. I got the bleed mostly out but one little bubble. Hopefully goes away. I will say nice level of performance, so far getting near ambient temps just on Scarlett Nexus running around the map. Will try more over long weekend. Flow rate is pretty good. So 0.8gpm Per Minute Flow Rate (might improve as coolant gets used more often). Pump is running at 100%

Some Night Shots. The Liquid Diamond stands out.


----------



## acoustic

They weren't kidding when they said that coolant looks like sperm, lol!

The block looks good  enjoy the PC for a bit, Lord knows you've been waiting for a while!


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> They weren't kidding when they said that coolant looks like sperm, lol!
> 
> The block looks good  enjoy the PC for a bit, Lord knows you've been waiting for a while!


Yeah coolant looks off but thats small price to pay for not having to deal with what i had with brass tubing


----------



## Section31

Did some more testing and delta t is sub 10 (depends on task though)


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> Did some more testing and delta t is sub 10 (depends on task though)


Sounds right. How many pumps you got in that beast?


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Sounds right. How many pumps you got in that beast?


One only. The other two on the mo-ra. Will go dual internal pump in next case


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> Sounds right. How many pumps you got in that beast?





Section31 said:


> One only. The other two on the mo-ra. Will go dual internal pump in next case


Regarding pumps...just set up the new loop. Using 3x D5 pumps. Have 2x 360mm HWL GTR and 2x 480mm GTR rads. Optimus signature CPU block. Probably 30x 90 degree and other angled fittings and probably 10x Koolance QDC3s. Also have an Aquacomputer high flow sensor so did some testing with some pumps off. With the level of restriction I have, a single D5 pump at 100% gives me 195 lph (0.85 gpm). 2 pumps at 100% only goes up to 260 lph (1.15 gpm) and 3 pumps at 100% goes to 315 lph (1.38 gpm). 

I believe those ratios would be different with less restriction in the loop. Obviously I have a ton. And once the kingpin block is added it’ll be even worse. Either way my target was to have over 1 gpm with all the quick connects and 90s I could use. And it looks like even with the GPU block I’ll be at around 1.2 gpm. 

Don’t see a lot of data shared about flow rates and pumps (outside of theoretical) so figured I’d post.


----------



## Shawnb99

HyperMatrix said:


> Regarding pumps...just set up the new loop. Using 3x D5 pumps. Have 2x 360mm HWL GTR and 2x 480mm GTR rads. Optimus signature CPU block. Probably 30x 90 degree and other angled fittings and probably 10x Koolance QDC3s. Also have an Aquacomputer high flow sensor so did some testing with some pumps off. With the level of restriction I have, a single D5 pump at 100% gives me 195 lph (0.85 gpm). 2 pumps at 100% only goes up to 260 lph (1.15 gpm) and 3 pumps at 100% goes to 315 lph (1.38 gpm).
> 
> I believe those ratios would be different with less restriction in the loop. Obviously I have a ton. And once the kingpin block is added it’ll be even worse. Either way my target was to have over 1 gpm with all the quick connects and 90s I could use. And it looks like even with the GPU block I’ll be at around 1.2 gpm.
> 
> Don’t see a lot of data shared about flow rates and pumps (outside of theoretical) so figured I’d post.


Yeah I'm always surprised by how low flow I end up with. Right now with 4 pumps running I need to run them at 75% to get 1.02GPM. Yet if I turn on my other 2 pumps I can slow them down to 25% to get the same flow rate


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Regarding pumps...just set up the new loop. Using 3x D5 pumps. Have 2x 360mm HWL GTR and 2x 480mm GTR rads. Optimus signature CPU block. Probably 30x 90 degree and other angled fittings and probably 10x Koolance QDC3s. Also have an Aquacomputer high flow sensor so did some testing with some pumps off. With the level of restriction I have, a single D5 pump at 100% gives me 195 lph (0.85 gpm). 2 pumps at 100% only goes up to 260 lph (1.15 gpm) and 3 pumps at 100% goes to 315 lph (1.38 gpm).
> 
> I believe those ratios would be different with less restriction in the loop. Obviously I have a ton. And once the kingpin block is added it’ll be even worse. Either way my target was to have over 1 gpm with all the quick connects and 90s I could use. And it looks like even with the GPU block I’ll be at around 1.2 gpm.
> 
> Don’t see a lot of data shared about flow rates and pumps (outside of theoretical) so figured I’d post.


We need more testing on that. I saw an 8% drop in flow rate from Bitspower to Optimus GPU Block.


----------



## LiquidHaus

It was funny, as I was crunching to finish this rebuild due to multiple brand collabs, the night I finished the entirety of it - the KPE block was launched.

I think the rig turned out pretty sweet though. That Optimus KPE block will be looking good front and center of this one though...


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> It was funny, as I was crunching to finish this rebuild due to multiple brand collabs, the night I finished the entirety of it - the KPE block was launched.
> 
> I think the rig turned out pretty sweet though. That Optimus KPE block will be looking good front and center of this one though...


Sweet. Can’t wait for our collaboration build results after seeing this.

Nice use of the usb hub. I find those hubs really useful for aquacomputer gear


----------



## iamjanco

Getting there (just an update):








I'll probably go over it with GORD's one more time and call it ready for mounting.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Section31 said:


> Sweet. Can’t wait for our collaboration build results after seeing this.
> 
> Nice use of the usb hub. I find those hubs really useful for aquacomputer gear


Yeah man! It should be pretty cool, I'm excited for ya!

And yeah those Anker 4 port hubs are amazing, I bought like 5 of them for various uses lol



iamjanco said:


> Getting there (just an update):
> 
> I'll probably go over it with GORD's one more time and call it ready for mounting.


That looks awesome dude! Well done on the holes, looks super clean.


----------



## acoustic

iamjanco said:


> Getting there (just an update):
> I'll probably go over it with GORD's one more time and call it ready for mounting.


Looks better than most companies backplates LOL


----------



## acoustic

LiquidHaus said:


> It was funny, as I was crunching to finish this rebuild due to multiple brand collabs, the night I finished the entirety of it - the KPE block was launched.
> 
> I think the rig turned out pretty sweet though. That Optimus KPE block will be looking good front and center of this one though...


What fittings and tubing are those? Beautiful as always, Haus


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> What fittings and tubing are those? Beautiful as always, Haus


Looks like ekwb torques and tubing epdm.


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> That looks awesome dude! Well done on the holes, looks super clean.





acoustic said:


> Looks better than most companies backplates LOL


Thanks, guys  Going to track thermals and flow using that backplate combo with the Hydro Copper block, then bump them against the readings I take using the Optimus Active block set (once it arrives).


----------



## LiquidHaus

acoustic said:


> What fittings and tubing are those? Beautiful as always, Haus


Thank you sir!

For the soft tubing, I used EK's Torque compression and their Torque Rotaries. The rotaries have such a nice aesthetic to me. For tubing it's EPDM tubing from McMaster Carr. Honestly it's about the same price as EK's ZMT but much easier for me to get, plus no branding on the tubing itself. 

For hard tubing I use Monsoon EV2 fittings. Best ones out there for hard tubing. And then of course Monsoon PETG. Drain valve is a Phanteks.


----------



## HyperMatrix

So I just swapped my Aquacomputer Kryos Next CPU block with the Optimus Signature block....and the difference is far beyond what I had expected. In non-AVX stress testing, 11900k with 5GHz all core clock, I was at 46-51C depending on the core. I’ll get to some manual overclocking the next few days but the Optimus hype is real.


----------



## bullydog

Hi, Like to check in and ask if anyone here has installed the optimus GPU waterblock with an Evga RTX3080ti FTW ultra? 
Just installed mine and immediately noticed weird issues with my system like random black screens in windows (on idle) and games cant seem to launch, when i go to BIOS it seems to lag when i navigate around. 

I think it might be an issue of me over tightening the block against the black plate? But the problem is because the thermal pad on the back plate is so thick that if i dont tighten it, i dont get full contact ?

Thanks in advance for any advice


----------



## Optimus WC

bullydog said:


> Hi, Like to check in and ask if anyone here has installed the optimus GPU waterblock with an Evga RTX3080ti FTW ultra?
> Just installed mine and immediately noticed weird issues with my system like random black screens in windows (on idle) and games cant seem to launch, when i go to BIOS it seems to lag when i navigate around.
> 
> I think it might be an issue of me over tightening the block against the black plate? But the problem is because the thermal pad on the back plate is so thick that if i dont tighten it, i dont get full contact ?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice


Hey there, never heard of that issue, you should tighten as much as you can -- it's virtually impossible to damage the card because of the way the card is supported with the backplate. It's a clamshell design, not the typical backplate + front block.

And because you're sandwiching the PCB, there's nothing to break on the card like a socket or pins or whatever, it's all compressed nicely


----------



## bullydog

Hi, thank you for your swift reply and confirmation on the way the block is designed and mounted. I have just removed it from my system and will inspect the card and remount it again and then report back.

thanks again


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, never heard of that issue, you should tighten as much as you can -- it's virtually impossible to damage the card because of the way the card is supported with the backplate. It's a clamshell design, not the typical backplate + front block.
> 
> And because you're sandwiching the PCB, there's nothing to break on the card like a socket or pins or whatever, it's all compressed nicely


Will you guys be getting alderlake samples. Curious to know the performance of your blocks with these chips.


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> Will you guys be getting alderlake samples. Curious to know the performance of your blocks with these chips.


We'd like to, we'll put feelers out, GPUs are keeping us busy as expanding the operations


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> We'd like to, we'll put feelers out, GPUs are keeping us busy as expanding the operations


I definitely am interested in helping you out. If alderlake is good as rumors as is, i will get it. Just e-mail me.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Optimus WC said:


> And because you're sandwiching the PCB, there's nothing to break on the card like a socket or pins or whatever, it's all compressed nicely


Speaking of sandwiching, will you be producing an NVlink cover, similar to the EVGA HC block?


----------



## Keith Myers

HyperMatrix said:


> So I just swapped my Aquacomputer Kryos Next CPU block with the Optimus Signature block....and the difference is far beyond what I had expected. In non-AVX stress testing, 11900k with 5GHz all core clock, I was at 46-51C depending on the core. I’ll get to some manual overclocking the next few days but the Optimus hype is real.


The Kryos Next Silver/PVD CPU block is a lot closer to the Optimus Foundation block on my 3950X if you use the Aquacomputer AM4 offset mounting brackets. Makes the comparison much closer. Within a degree or two.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Keith Myers said:


> The Kryos Next Silver/PVD CPU block is a lot closer to the Optimus Foundation block on my 3950X if you use the Aquacomputer AM4 offset mounting brackets. Makes the comparison much closer. Within a degree or two.


Big problem I had with the Kryos Next is that I broke off a few screws and had to reorder from Germany because it uses springs and that makes it hard to have as good of a contact between the cold plate and the ihs. The Optimus Signature block, not Foundation (I have no experience with the foundation) has no springs and you can be an idiot like me and keep turning until the cows come home. Haha. I put the increased performance far more heavily on better cold plate contact/pressure than that of the fin/jet plate design difference.


----------



## Keith Myers

HyperMatrix said:


> Big problem I had with the Kryos Next is that I broke off a few screws and had to reorder from Germany because it uses springs and that makes it hard to have as good of a contact between the cold plate and the ihs. The Optimus Signature block, not Foundation (I have no experience with the foundation) has no springs and you can be an idiot like me and keep turning until the cows come home. Haha. I put the increased performance far more heavily on better cold plate contact/pressure than that of the fin/jet plate design difference.


Yes, I agree. I wish I could reef down the AC Kryos block to the max like I can do with the Optimus Foundation. The hold down screws just bottom out on the Kryos Cuplex Next block.
But I did get about 4 degrees better cooling with the offset bracket compared to the stock configuration I originally got it in. I ordered the offset brackets when they were developed and they work.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

@Optimus WC Any plans to sell the GPU backplates separately in the future and with more color options? And, related to that: I recently had my case professionally powder-coated. If I had only the top side of the XL backplate done, would the result be anything past a minor decrease in heat dissipation? Or could it cause a real issue? The underside I would leave as is.


----------



## LiquidHaus

GraphicsWhore said:


> @Optimus WC Any plans to sell the GPU backplates separately in the future and with more color options? And, related to that: I recently had my case professionally powder-coated. If I had only the top side of the XL backplate done, would the result be anything past a minor decrease in heat dissipation? Or could it cause a real issue? The underside I would leave as is.


Get it cerakoted. Don't do powdercoat for anything heatsink related.

Link for reference: Cerakote - TRANSFER GREY (AIR CURE)


----------



## Biggu

@Optimus WC Any update on the shipping of Strix blocks?


----------



## RoivonPC

So I dissembled my AM4 foundation block last night as I want the ports to go horizontal. I decided to put the 3 main components together without the main gasket and I noticed a hairline gap on all 4 sides. The gasket appears to cover it up because I was holding pressure last I knew. Admittedly I'm posting this at work when I should give pictures at home later. Also while the center gasket has a defined channel the outer larger gasket's channel is much more complex. Has anyone taken one of these apart and noticed what I'm describing? I'm concerned I'm crushing the gasket flat and will cause a leak later.


----------



## dwolvin

the gap should be normal, and almost invisible when tightened up, but solid contact would actually prevent gasket pressure (hope I'm explaining it correctly).


----------



## RoivonPC

So as long as I'm holding pressure it doesn't really matter how it looked?


----------



## GraphicsWhore

LiquidHaus said:


> Get it cerakoted. Don't do powdercoat for anything heatsink related.
> 
> Link for reference: Cerakote - TRANSFER GREY (AIR CURE)


Thanks. Could that be applied to both sides? Or still better to avoid underside?


----------



## dwolvin

INtresting


LiquidHaus said:


> Get it cerakoted. Don't do powdercoat for anything heatsink related.
> 
> Link for reference: Cerakote - TRANSFER GREY (AIR CURE)


Interesting!


----------



## dwolvin

RoivonPC said:


> So as long as I'm holding pressure it doesn't really matter how it looked?


Pretty much yes- I'd worry if the gap was over half the thickness of the o-ring, but even then if you hold pressure / don't leak you would probably be fine.


----------



## LiquidHaus

GraphicsWhore said:


> Thanks. Could that be applied to both sides? Or still better to avoid underside?


I'd personally get the underside as "raw" as possible, but coating the underside would most likely be just fine - as long as you're using a specialized thermal coating like the one I linked ya!


----------



## Section31

@Optimus WC The other good news is that new Intel roadmap leaks changed my plans somewhat. I seriously will just jump to alderlake and and then go straight to nova lake. Would let you test out my CPU, etc first for your block purposes.

(Extracted from leak)
Lunar Lake (Lion Cove / Skymont) Q4’24
This is the product that will use TSMC 3nm as reported by Nikkei. Big performance jump expected and designed to achieve parity or beat AMD and Apple in both performance and power efficiency.

Nova Lake (Panther Cove [tentative]/ Darkmont) 2025
This will mark the biggest architectural change in cpu architecture since the Core architecture is introduced in 2006. Intel is working to build an entirely new architecture from the ground up much like Ryzen with up to 50% cpu performance improvement from lunar lake. This is also the reason why Glenn Hinton returned.


----------



## dwolvin

I hope Intel pull it off (or something good), but those sound like 'scheduled major advancement'...


----------



## JustinThyme

Original Optimus blocks all had springs too.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Biggu said:


> @Optimus WC Any update on the shipping of Strix blocks?


I messaged them because I ordered mine on the 10th June at around 10ish pm. Was told mine “most likely” will be shipped out on the week of 9th August. Knowing my luck it’ll be on Friday the 13th and I won’t see it until the 16th. But that ofc depends on “IF THEY” ship it next week,I don’t trust Optimus anymore.

Going by the numbers and when I ordered because I was quite early I think they ship out literally 2-3 blocks per week.


----------



## lostsupper

Biggu said:


> @Optimus WC Any update on the shipping of Strix blocks?


I also bought mine June 10th. They finally replied to my email (which I sent two weeks ago) saying that they "are hoping" to have mine shipped by August 13. Not stoked on this experience.

EDIT: Ordered June 10th, not October 10th.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

lostsupper said:


> I also bought mine October 10th. They finally replied to my email (which I sent two weeks ago) saying that they "are hoping" to have mine shipped by August 13. Not stoked on this experience.


What’s your order number,curious to see when you ordered and when we’ll get them.


----------



## Optimus WC

GraphicsWhore said:


> @Optimus WC Any plans to sell the GPU backplates separately in the future and with more color options? And, related to that: I recently had my case professionally powder-coated. If I had only the top side of the XL backplate done, would the result be anything past a minor decrease in heat dissipation? Or could it cause a real issue? The underside I would leave as is.


Hey, very cool. Cerakote is the best. That said, the rear of the PCB just needs some substantial metal there, it's not concentrated like a CPU, powder coating won't hurt it I don't think, it'll be like coating brake calipers, but honestly, we haven't tried [powder coating so don't know for sure.

And we are working on some new finishes, more to be released later this month.

RE: Strix blocks, it's always finishing that kills the time frames. Which is why we're bringing finishing in-house. Except for nickel cold plates, which are really hard to do. But no more outside anodizing or nickel on the GPUs, everything will be internal, with a week turnaround rather than a 5-6+ week deal. Our partners for anodizing etc are hit by lots of new work (as is everyone) and they keep pushing us back. 


Section31 said:


> @Optimus WC The other good news is that new Intel roadmap leaks changed my plans somewhat. I seriously will just jump to alderlake and and then go straight to nova lake. Would let you test out my CPU, etc first for your block purposes.
> 
> (Extracted from leak)
> Lunar Lake (Lion Cove / Skymont) Q4’24
> This is the product that will use TSMC 3nm as reported by Nikkei. Big performance jump expected and designed to achieve parity or beat AMD and Apple in both performance and power efficiency.
> 
> Nova Lake (Panther Cove [tentative]/ Darkmont) 2025
> This will mark the biggest architectural change in cpu architecture since the Core architecture is introduced in 2006. Intel is working to build an entirely new architecture from the ground up much like Ryzen with up to 50% cpu performance improvement from lunar lake. This is also the reason why Glenn Hinton returned.


Very cool, keep us informed  Chances are if there are big differences, we'll order all new stuff. Plus we're always testing CPU stuff, so we gotta keep up to date on everything. We're building out a new space with lots of permanent test rigs so we can prove out all the product.


----------



## eeikcud

Man I have a 3090 Galax SG. Would instantly buy the SIGNATURE GPU BLOCK - KINGPIN 3090 if it would fit the SG . Damn it's sexy af.


----------



## lostsupper

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> What’s your order number,curious to see when you ordered and when we’ll get them.


#OP4717, placed at 10:00 PM Eastern June 10th. 

I get production delays. Not even mad about that. What's irritating is that it took them three weeks (not two) to respond to an email. And that the rep here never even bothered to reply to a direct message.

In my first email to their support account, I asked specifically if there was anything that might cause my order to miss its original shipping date. Zero response. Crickets.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

lostsupper said:


> #OP4717, placed at 10:00 PM Eastern June 10th.
> 
> I get production delays. Not even mad about that. What's irritating is that it took them three weeks (not two) to respond to an email. And that the rep here never even bothered to reply to a direct message.
> 
> In my first email to their support account, I asked specifically if there was anything that might cause my order to miss its original shipping date. Zero response. Crickets.


I’m #OP4728

Well 2 months ago I bought one of their blemished reservoirs (at that time they didn’t have the custom builds),payed for everything and suddenly crickets. 1 week passes nothing,I write an email to ask nicely if there is a issue…No response,after another 5 business days wrote them again what’s going on and guess what crickets again.
Extra week passes then I was pissed,like really pissed!
That next email you can guess how that looked like and the language…Suddenly Matt responds in 2ish hours,apologizing how they didn’t have the color but they can give me nickel instead of silver (which was even better for me,didn’t have it at the time I bought). Basically took the money and deliberately played stupid for 3 weeks till they finally received something to present me with.
Except for the quality that they provide they’re lacking massively in every other aspect!


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC If I were to ultra sonic clean my CPU block is there anything I should be aware of before I do it? Same question regarding radiators anything I should be aware of before I do it?


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey, very cool. Cerakote is the best. That said, the rear of the PCB just needs some substantial metal there, it's not concentrated like a CPU, powder coating won't hurt it I don't think, it'll be like coating brake calipers, but honestly, we haven't tried [powder coating so don't know for sure.
> 
> And we are working on some new finishes, more to be released later this month.
> 
> RE: Strix blocks, it's always finishing that kills the time frames. Which is why we're bringing finishing in-house. Except for nickel cold plates, which are really hard to do. But no more outside anodizing or nickel on the GPUs, everything will be internal, with a week turnaround rather than a 5-6+ week deal. Our partners for anodizing etc are hit by lots of new work (as is everyone) and they keep pushing us back.
> 
> 
> Very cool, keep us informed  Chances are if there are big differences, we'll order all new stuff. Plus we're always testing CPU stuff, so we gotta keep up to date on everything. We're building out a new space with lots of permanent test rigs so we can prove out all the product.


Tell us the result. Planning to just order more stuff from you in 2022.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

@Shawnb99 

I was searching to see if I can find your build but wasn’t able to find any posts,maybe I’m just dumb idk…I’d love to see your build and how you combined all those rads and fans.
Can you upload a pic of your setup?


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> @Shawnb99
> 
> I was searching to see if I can find your build but wasn’t able to find any posts,maybe I’m just dumb idk…I’d love to see your build and how you combined all those rads and fans.
> Can you upload a pic of your setup?


It's in an caselabs. Forget which but its one of there big cases.


----------



## dwolvin

It's in a minihome, he needs a small yard tractor to move it around. (I keed, I keed).


----------



## Keith Myers

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC If I were to ultra sonic clean my CPU block is there anything I should be aware of before I do it? Same question regarding radiators anything I should be aware of before I do it?


I can't think of anything to be concerned about. I recently cleaned several of my coldplates in my ultrasonic cleaner. Only big enough for that however. No way big enough to clean a rad.
I had the best luck with white vinegar and cola.


----------



## NorySS

lostsupper said:


> I also bought mine October 10th. They finally replied to my email (which I sent two weeks ago) saying that they "are hoping" to have mine shipped by August 13. Not stoked on this experience.


You must have meant, June 10th. 
I just got mine. Also ordered Jun 10th at 8:57PM Eastern Time. It was shipped out July 28th. So a total of 7 weeks, from order to fulfillment. 
USPS decided to let it sit in limbo at the station in my house, so it took almost a week toget here. 

Ive waited a lot longer for an NEW Optimus product. This actually came right on time!!!

Nory


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Guys you know what I did?
I bought the new WHITE Heatkiller rads and just spray painted them!
Just unscrewed the 6 small very small screws,used 220 grit and went twice over…after that wiped with alcohol and took my all time fav MATTE BLACK SPRAY PAINT from “KRYLON - 1602” (that’s the matte“st black I’ve ever seen in my life).
Literally took me 35min to do both sides,another 30ish for the spray paint to dry (this one dries super quick) and hour later it’s finished.

In all honesty it looks like it came like that,perfectly smooth finish and just slapped back the 2 stickers.
Who the F…. Is going to wait 25-28 business days for the black ones to be shipped out? Plus paying $40Euros for shipping to wait over a month…not me!

That’s all,thanks for reading and have a nice evening 😊


EDIT : Picture


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Guys you know what I did?
> I bought the new WHITE Heatkiller rads and just spray painted them!
> Just unscrewed the 6 small very small screws,used 220 grit and went twice over…after that wiped with alcohol and took my all time fav MATTE BLACK SPRAY PAINT from “KRYLON - 1602” (that’s the matte“st black I’ve ever seen in my life).
> Literally took me 35min to do both sides,another 30ish for the spray paint to dry (this one dries super quick) and hour later it’s finished.
> 
> In all honesty it looks like it came like that,perfectly smooth finish and just slapped back the 2 stickers.
> Who the F…. Is going to wait 25-28 business days for the black ones to be shipped out? Plus paying $40Euros for shipping to wait over a month…not me!
> 
> That’s all,thanks for reading and have a nice evening 😊
> 
> 
> EDIT : Picture
> 
> View attachment 2519947


I'm amazed you actually went and paid the 40euro rather than attempt to do one of the 500euro group purchases (free shipping). There literally were couple ppl here that missed out on the group purchases.

Didn't realize it was 23-25days for black ones and 360 S Rads lol. It's ok though, its for my friends build and build was planned in September/October. I can now just place the last fittings order in September/October instead for them. All good in the end.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Section31 said:


> I'm amazed you actually went and paid the 40euro rather than attempt to do one of the 500euro group purchases (free shipping). There literally were couple ppl here that missed out on the group purchases.


I love ramen,so it was a win win for me…got my rad’s,payed $40euros which left me broke so now I can eat my fav ramen for the next couple of weeks 🙂

Jokes aside,I didn’t know you guys made group purchases. I tend to stay away from the WWW as much as I can,the constant negativity and bs isn’t worth it for me. I only get active when OPTIMUS starts effing around with my shipping times and not answering my emails for 3 weeks….that’s when I have to step in.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I love ramen,so it was a win win for me…got my rad’s,payed $40euros which left me broke so now I can eat my fav ramen for the next couple of weeks 🙂
> 
> Jokes aside,I didn’t know you guys made group purchases. I tend to stay away from the WWW as much as I can,the constant negativity and bs isn’t worth it for me. I only get active when OPTIMUS starts effing around with my shipping times and not answering my emails for 3 weeks….that’s when I have to step in.


You are missing out on it the privately organized ones here


----------



## lostsupper

NorySS said:


> You must have meant, June 10th.
> I just got mine. Also ordered Jun 10th at 8:57PM Eastern Time. It was shipped out July 28th. So a total of 7 weeks, from order to fulfillment.
> USPS decided to let it sit in limbo at the station in my house, so it took almost a week toget here.
> 
> Ive waited a lot longer for an NEW Optimus product. This actually came right on time!!!
> 
> Nory


I did mean June. Just edited my post. Thanks for the heads-up. Also please post your impressions of the block, installation, and temp results.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Section31 said:


> You are missing out on it the privately organized ones here


I would def be interested in group buys,it just that I don’t know anyone who organizes such things and mostly people are looking for the cheapest stuff they can get. Explain to somebody why he should buy a 50mm thick rad for $92Euro’s when he can buy it for cheaper “But but…isn’t it the same ****,I mean I can save $20 and buy 10 super cheap fittings etc etc…”

Are there any new group buys coming up shortly?


----------



## Shawnb99

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> @Shawnb99
> 
> I was searching to see if I can find your build but wasn’t able to find any posts,maybe I’m just dumb idk…I’d love to see your build and how you combined all those rads and fans.
> Can you upload a pic of your setup?


This is all I've taken so far. Plan on taking a bunch more once I get my KPE block and do another tear down

*


http://imgur.com/a/KlRNW1O

*


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Shawnb99 said:


> This is all I've taken so far. Plan on taking a bunch more once I get my KPE block and do another tear down
> 
> *
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/KlRNW1O
> 
> *


I’ve got the Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 case and that’s huge compared to other cases but *** compared to yours it looks like a baby!
I needed a good 2min of looking at the pics to see what the F…is going on there 😂
Every second you find a new *** moment…1st the 3 mini fans then you see the KPE rad tapped onto the noctua fans…
I can’t even imagine how wide that case is,looking at the pics how much space it has in the front and the back,that case is something else. Which case is it exactly?


Thanks for the pics


----------



## Shawnb99

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I’ve got the Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 case and that’s huge compared to other cases but *** compared to yours it looks like a baby!
> I needed a good 2min of looking at the pics to see what the F…is going on there 😂
> Every second you find a new *** moment…1st the 3 mini fans then you see the KPE rad tapped onto the noctua fans…
> I can’t even imagine how wide that case is,looking at the pics how much space it has in the front and the back,that case is something else. Which case is it exactly?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the pics


Caselabs TH10 with a pedestal. With the wheels it stands about 44" high. 
These are the dimensions Size: 15"W x 25.06"H x 26.06"D 
The pedestal adds another 8" of height

Yeah those are a bunch of Noctua NF-A4x10's in there, got space for 4 but the KPE is blocking access atm so waiting for the block before I add that final fan in.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I would def be interested in group buys,it just that I don’t know anyone who organizes such things and mostly people are looking for the cheapest stuff they can get. Explain to somebody why he should buy a 50mm thick rad for $92Euro’s when he can buy it for cheaper “But but…isn’t it the same ****,I mean I can save $20 and buy 10 super cheap fittings etc etc…”
> 
> Are there any new group buys coming up shortly?


Its complete random. Closest is when optimus releases new stuff like glass reservoir, rads and fittings. Me and Shawnb99 most likely will get but we are in same region so makes sense for us. Shawnb99 and me are mostly Optimus at this point.

Theres also an group of potential future buyers out east on reddit - so cennis2018, baekmagoji, jjkfeng, thanhta among them. Also user called nawk, chibi, gebyz, criskoe and blitzraider here. Feel free to contact them next time your buying waterparts. At least spilt shipping and processing fees. The rest on reddit all just endup ordering by themselves i found.


----------



## criskoe

Shawnb99 said:


> This is all I've taken so far. Plan on taking a bunch more once I get my KPE block and do another tear down
> 
> *
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/KlRNW1O
> 
> *


Do those little baby Noctua fans next to the PCI E slots actually do much or they just to fill the space?


----------



## Shawnb99

criskoe said:


> Do those little baby Noctua fans next to the PCI E slots actually do much or they just to fill the space?


They push a fair amount for the size. Not that noisy either. Not sure what if any improvement they offer.


----------



## Shawnb99

Someone on the EVGA forums said Optimus is pretty solid on delivery dates. I couldn't help but laugh. There must a different Optimus out there



https://forums.evga.com/KNGPN-Hybrid-and-Hydro-Copper-Unofficial-AutoNotify-Confirmation-Lists-m3152026-p273.aspx


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I am finally getting around to installing my Signature Blemish. It did not come with the bracket that goes behind the motherboard. Is this sold separately, or did Optimus forget to put it in the box?


----------



## tbrown7552

0451 said:


> I am finally getting around to installing my Signature Blemish. It did not come with the bracket that goes behind the motherboard. Is this sold separately, or did Optimus forget to put it in the box?
> 
> View attachment 2519970


Thats a blacket thats part of the ILM on LGA20xx boards.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

tbrown7552 said:


> Thats a blacket thats part of the ILM on LGA2066 boards.


It seems like the motherboard would flex. Is this block meant for direct die?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> Someone on the EVGA forums said Optimus is pretty solid on delivery dates. I couldn't help but laugh. There must a different Optimus out there
> 
> 
> 
> https://forums.evga.com/KNGPN-Hybrid-and-Hydro-Copper-Unofficial-AutoNotify-Confirmation-Lists-m3152026-p273.aspx


There is the random awesome shopping experience. I think for my blemish block it was under 48 hours from order to delivery. So I mean if you luck out the one time and extrapolate from that....haha. Either that or undercover Optimus account.


----------



## tbrown7552

0451 said:


> It seems like the motherboard would flex. Is this block meant for direct die?
> 
> View attachment 2519971


What board is that?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

tbrown7552 said:


> What board is that?


ASRock Z590 OC Formula


----------



## tbrown7552

0451 said:


> ASRock Z590 OC Formula


Thats not LGA20xx. You would follow the 115x instructions. The block does work with direct die. If your just simply asking how it works on LGA20xx then with direct die there is a die mount that clamps the cpu into the socket and has those mounting holes in it.


----------



## NorySS

lostsupper said:


> I did mean June. Just edited my post. Thanks for the heads-up. Also please post your impressions of the block, installation, and temp results.


Impressions are its top notch like all thier stuff.
I have their :
Signature v2 x2 blocks
ThreadRipperblock
AM4 Foundation block
And this is my first GPU block from them.


Its hella thick, which is great considering bitspower, and evga's 30 series blocks have thinned out the copper cold plate.
Finish is impressive, especially the acrylic. I'm glad optimus has swapped the coldplates retaining screws from phillips to hex head style. Functionally,
it does NOT make a difference, but it now matches their level of craftmanship, and just gives the person unboxing their block an overall better appearance.

As far as temp results, it will be a while before i have hard data. But judging by the work, and measurements I took of the Optimus block, I am expecting it to AT LEAST match EKWB 3090FE blocks perfomance.


*EKWB 3090FE blocks results after 1 hour of PUBG:* 
Delta between hottest water temp and gpu is *11C average* 
Delta between coolest water temp and gpu is *15C average *
Delta between GPU temp and GPU hot spot is *10C-11C average *
Shunt Modded 3090FE pulling about *500watts average*
TG Conductonaut Liquid Metal
O11D Case w/ Triple Rads- Twin 280s -Single 360
11900K pulling about 120 watts average


----------



## Biggu

So I finally got a new monitor yesterday and I noticed it's actually pushing my GPU so much that I can hear the fans through my headphones. Cant wait to get this under water so Its back to quiet PC again.


----------



## Optimus WC

0451 said:


> It seems like the motherboard would flex. Is this block meant for direct die?


As people point out, you have the correct install. the mobo does flex some, but it's designed to work that way with best performance. We used to include a backplate thing, but it would still flex because backplates, even metal ones, still flex, it's just a psychological thing (assuming pressure is the same across both styles of mounting).

And our mount now is able to give you faaaar more accurate pressure, esp for direct die. 

Here's a good example of top direct die numbers with our blocks:


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/osok9j


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Would it make any sense to buy the 17mk/W Thermalpads and use them instead of the low mk/W Optimus gives you?
I’ve bought a couple of times the Gelid ULTIMATE 15mk/W pads,they‘re squishy and don’t rip that easily and compared to Fuji’s they are super cheap. I’m thinking doing just the front,not sure how the huge backplate one looks like since I never used a GPU block from Optimus.
Anyone have any experience with changing Thermalpads?

In a perfect world I would be now using my Strix 3090 OC with Optimus block playing RDR2 but as things are and Optimus can’t get their **** together I’m just thinking about random bs I can do to improve my performance and f….. spray painting stuff till my Optimus block arrives…

EDIT : Cable management is fun when you have nothing else to do 🙂


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Would it make any sense to buy the 17mk/W Thermalpads and use them instead of the low mk/W Optimus gives you?
> I’ve bought a couple of times the Gelid ULTIMATE 15mk/W pads,they‘re squishy and don’t rip that easily and compared to Fuji’s they are super cheap. I’m thinking doing just the front,not sure how the huge backplate one looks like since I never used a GPU block from Optimus.
> Anyone have any experience with changing Thermalpads?
> 
> In a perfect world I would be now using my Strix 3090 OC with Optimus block playing RDR2 but as things are and Optimus can’t get their **** together I’m just thinking about random bs I can do to improve my performance and f….. spray painting stuff till my Optimus block arrives…
> 
> EDIT : Cable management is fun when you have nothing else to do 🙂


Go buy yourself an dewire fan solution lol.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Section31 said:


> Go buy yourself an dewire fan solution lol.


**** you! 😂

I’m just currently looking at it putting it in my cart and going back and forth if I need that or not…now you’re coming with that ***,must be a sign to hit the purchase button


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Go buy yourself an dewire fan solution lol.


Still no restocking of the 560's  




ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> DIT : Cable management is fun when you have nothing else to do 🙂


We have vastly different definitions of fun. Then again my build is a bit more of a challenge. Really need to get into making my own cables


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> **** you! 😂
> 
> I’m just currently looking at it putting it in my cart and going back and forth if I need that or not…now you’re coming with that ***,must be a sign to hit the purchase button


Its helpful for non daisy chain fans (ie: noctua) but for the new daisy chain ones or new rgb fans like lianli ones, not useful. There is variant of dewire with rgb coming.

Also can’t wait for your diy solution to optimus back plate thermal pad solution- its an whole 3mm thick fujipoly that spans the whole pcb. Impossible to find elsewhere.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> **** you! 😂
> 
> I’m just currently looking at it putting it in my cart and going back and forth if I need that or not…now you’re coming with that ***,must be a sign to hit the purchase button


Have you also not looked into doing your own cable? Buy some connectors, 15awg/16awg materials and mdpc-x sleeve (great new colors) and make your own custom length cables for everything. Imagine even fan cables made using mdpc-x material.


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> Go buy yourself an dewire fan solution lol.


Man I really want that but I need the 560 but its been sold out for so long. I suppose I could get away with the 480 though.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

@Shawnb99

Well with to much free time,nothing else to do and having a AquaComputer Octo,Splitty and Hubby7 I feel like a god damn electrician. Figuring out what cables I need,products are great but the whole cable and different numbers on what goes with what etc…is horrendous on their part. Just effing charge me $10-15 more and ship with all the cables and finished thing.


@Section31

Hmmmm I never thought about doing my own cables,I have a Be Quiet Dark Pro 12 1500W and CableMods make custom ones for my PSU. Just bought those and put ordered the right length’s.
Yeah no,for just 2 360 Dewire’s and shipping it’s $65Euros…that’s something I don’t really need. People bring out products and haven’t got a serious solution for shipping. Seeing guys saying shipping to Australia is something like $75.
No thanks

Also PLEASE STOP with all the idea’s,I’m going to spend another $1000 before my Optimus block arrives on unnecessary stuff 😂


----------



## Shawnb99

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Well with to much free time,nothing else to do and having a AquaComputer Octo,Splitty and Hubby7 I feel like a god damn electrician. Figuring out what cables I need,products are great but the whole cable and different numbers on what goes with what etc…is horrendous on their part. Just effing charge me $10-15 more and ship with all the cables and finished thing.


Be careful with the cables for the Octo, all their vision connectors are think and break very easily. I've gone though at least 20 by now. I've only got I think 10 splitty's, 2 Aquero's, an Octo and two Hubby7's. Not to mention the 6 D5 Next's and Flow Next. So many cables...


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> @Shawnb99
> 
> Well with to much free time,nothing else to do and having a AquaComputer Octo,Splitty and Hubby7 I feel like a god damn electrician. Figuring out what cables I need,products are great but the whole cable and different numbers on what goes with what etc…is horrendous on their part. Just effing charge me $10-15 more and ship with all the cables and finished thing.
> 
> 
> @Section31
> 
> Hmmmm I never thought about doing my own cables,I have a Be Quiet Dark Pro 12 1500W and CableMods make custom ones for my PSU. Just bought those and put ordered the right length’s.
> Yeah no,for just 2 360 Dewire’s and shipping it’s $65Euros…that’s something I don’t really need. People bring out products and haven’t got a serious solution for shipping. Seeing guys saying shipping to Australia is something like $75.
> No thanks
> 
> Also PLEASE STOP with all the idea’s,I’m going to spend another $1000 before my Optimus block arrives on unnecessary stuff 😂


You guys can combine and get reduced shipping option for dewire. Buy more reduced shipping. This is ocn where budget is secondary lol but i get you. I was looking at ekwb torque etc fittings for my friends but decided barrows/bykski is probably best option and supplement with necessary ekwb torque fittings.

You do know Cablemods Pro cost as much as Titan Rigs Mod-One/Formerly Reliable Beyondcustoms’s MDPC-X Custom Cabling (If your looking for shorter or longer custom length). Even Mainframe Custom Cabling cheaper than Cablemods.

In regards to aquacomputer i use four usb hubs (sabrent, etc) then buy the aquabus to standard usb end on computers and connect them that way over the hubby 7 etc. Its an alternative to shawnb99 model


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Section31 said:


> You guys can combine and get reduced shipping option for dewire. Buy more reduced shipping. This is ocn where budget is secondary lol but i get you. I was looking at ekwb torque etc fittings for my friends but decided barrows/bykski is probably best option and supplement with necessary ekwb torque fittings.
> 
> You do know Cablemods Pro cost as much as Titan Rigs Mod-One/Formerly Reliable Beyondcustoms’s MDPC-X Custom Cabling (If your looking for shorter or longer custom length). Even Mainframe Custom Cabling cheaper than Cablemods.
> 
> In regards to aquacomputer i use four usb hubs (sabrent, etc) then buy the aquabus to standard usb end on computers and connect them that way over the hubby 7 etc. Its an alternative to shawnb99 model


I’m not rich but I can buy stuff without having to think to much about it. But even then I’m not going to just randomly pay absurd shipping costs because somebody is selling something and shipping costs almost as much as the product.


@Shawnb99

I’ve seen that,looks like they used the cheapest **** they could’ve find. Question,I have the High Flow Next,does that come with a integrated flow sensor or do I need to buy the extra cable to connect with the OCTO? I figured most of it out but some stuff is still unclear,they seriously need to fix up that horrendous manual.


----------



## Optimus WC

Re: Thermal pads, the Fujis we chose have the best performance. The whole w/mk number is misleading. There is a pressure gradient window where those numbers can be hit. It's a theoretical limit, but a real world number. Also, the squishy pads that claim high numbers are mostly BS, the performance isn't there compared to other pads.

Basically, we tested out a bunch of pads and the ones we chose are going to give the best performance. Feel free to try out different stuff and let us know if you discover something  But for the most part, going to higher w/mk pads will typically hurt performance and could impact the compression rate that then affects the die contact itself.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Optimus WC said:


> Re: Thermal pads, the Fujis we chose have the best performance. The whole w/mk number is misleading. There is a pressure gradient window where those numbers can be hit. It's a theoretical limit, but a real world number. Also, the squishy pads that claim high numbers are mostly BS, the performance isn't there compared to other pads.
> 
> Basically, we tested out a bunch of pads and the ones we chose are going to give the best performance. Feel free to try out different stuff and let us know if you discover something  But for the most part, going to higher w/mk pads will typically hurt performance and could impact the compression rate that then affects the die contact itself.


I just wish you were this professional and thorough about your shipping times and answering damn emails after 3 weeks.

I’ll trust you on this OPTIMUS,don’t hurt my feelings again…


----------



## Optimus WC

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I just wish you were this professional and thorough about your shipping times and answering damn emails after 3 weeks.
> 
> I’ll trust you on this OPTIMUS,don’t hurt my feelings again…


Sorry for the delays, we're at the mercy of our finishing providers -- anodizing has gone from 1 week turnaround to 5-6w. It's mostly the increase in manufacturing in all sectors causing extended times for everyone.

So we're bringing almost all finishing in house so we can get ahead on production. It's the challenges of being a small company, we're not big enough to have dedicated customer service, so in order to do a major buildout like setting up our own finishing facility internally, that means other things don't get done, unfortunately that's emails. The plan is to keep growing, and focus on getting stuff out faster so we don't need to have as many emails to even answer


----------



## iamjanco

Optimus WC said:


> Sorry for the delays, we're at the mercy of our finishing providers -- anodizing has gone from 1 week turnaround to 5-6w. It's mostly the increase in manufacturing in all sectors causing extended times for everyone.
> 
> So we're bringing almost all finishing in house so we can get ahead on production. *It's the challenges of being a small company*, we're not big enough to have dedicated customer service, so in order to do a major buildout like setting up our own finishing facility internally, that means other things don't get done, unfortunately that's emails. The plan is to keep growing, and focus on getting stuff out faster so we don't need to have as many emails to even answer


*Your LinkedIn profile* says you're a company of 0-10 employees. Do you ever feel like you've been overextending yourselves?

While it might not make good business sense to some, I think a little more transparency could go a long ways given the likes of your audience/customer base here (and elsewhere). Some of us are willing to wait a little longer and pay more for a quality product, but not being responsive to inquiries (especially from those who've paid for a product which has yet to arrive) only causes consternation. That said, here's to hoping you get over your growing pains as soon as feasibly possible.


----------



## NorySS

These Boys are too busy sending Jeff Bezos and company into space....

all us poor chaps take a back seat. we arent going into space any time soon......


----------



## Optimus WC

We're a growing company, right now every company is having challenges (looking at you nvidia lol) there are a lot of issues, though our customer service has gotten vastly better, we now have 3 people who answer emails. Sometimes emails do slip through the cracks (like I was out for a few weeks for health stuff) but we're making incremental improvements.

Expanding too fast? Not expanding fast enough, more like  We know the issues and are working to get them resolved. And we are increasing transparency -- we've addressed the issue of the anodizing a number of times now, though obviously, not everyone gets the news, so we need to improve on that. And as for transparency about what we do, I think we're one of the best after all we're on here talking through the details 

Like I mentioned, we're building out a new space with many new machines and internal finishing that will improve everything. Right now, for every one "why didn't you answer my email" email we get 10 "when are you going to make xyz block" so it's a constant balancing act. 

Our goal is to have better customer service than anyone (since we're in the US), have all products ship within 2 days and eventually have the biggest/best portfolio of products possible. We know we can do it because we have all the pieces in place to make it happen, so that's what we're shooting for


----------



## NorySS

Optimus WC said:


> We're a growing company, right now every company is having challenges (looking at you nvidia lol) there are a lot of issues, though our customer service has gotten vastly better, we now have 3 people who answer emails. Sometimes emails do slip through the cracks (like I was out for a few weeks for health stuff) but we're making incremental improvements.
> 
> Expanding too fast? Not expanding fast enough, more like  We know the issues and are working to get them resolved. And we are increasing transparency -- we've addressed the issue of the anodizing a number of times now, though obviously, not everyone gets the news, so we need to improve on that. And as for transparency about what we do, I think we're one of the best after all we're on here talking through the details
> 
> Like I mentioned, we're building out a new space with many new machines and internal finishing that will improve everything. Right now, for every one "why didn't you answer my email" email we get 10 "when are you going to make xyz block" so it's a constant balancing act.
> 
> Our goal is to have better customer service than anyone (since we're in the US), have all products ship within 2 days and eventually have the biggest/best portfolio of products possible. We know we can do it because we have all the pieces in place to make it happen, so that's what we're shooting for


dont forget my pizza


----------



## Optimus WC

NorySS said:


> dont forget my pizza


and now all blocks are delayed because nory wants pizza


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Optimus WC said:


> As people point out, you have the correct install. the mobo does flex some, but it's designed to work that way with best performance. We used to include a backplate thing, but it would still flex because backplates, even metal ones, still flex, it's just a psychological thing (assuming pressure is the same across both styles of mounting).
> 
> And our mount now is able to give you faaaar more accurate pressure, esp for direct die.
> 
> Here's a good example of top direct die numbers with our blocks:
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/osok9j


Thanks for the response. I found that the Optimus block sits perfectly flush on the IHS when using the EKWB Supremacy EVO mounting posts and backplate. If I decide to remove the IHS for direct die, I will use the Optimus mounting posts.


----------



## dwolvin

Thanks for the update Optimus!


----------



## Optimus WC

0451 said:


> Thanks for the response. I found that the Optimus block sits perfectly flush on the IHS when using the EKWB Supremacy EVO mounting posts and backplate. If I decide to remove the IHS for direct die, I will use the Optimus mounting posts.


If you go with other mounting other than the Optimus mounting for regular IHS, you'll have lower performance. This is one thing we've tested out a million times, going back years  And is discussed for like 100s of pages in this thread, in fact MUCH of this thread is about the posts because people didn't believe hard-mount w/o springs is better.

But it is  Looking at the block to see if it sits flush doesn't tell the full story. Try both out, but it's a big drop in performance going to other brands' mounting. Actually, I think it was just a few days ago people here were talking about using Optimus mounting with other blocks and how it's better.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> If you go with other mounting other than the Optimus mounting for regular IHS, you'll have lower performance. This is one thing we've tested out a million times, going back years  And is discussed for like 100s of pages in this thread, in fact MUCH of this thread is about the posts because people didn't believe hard-mount w/o springs is better.
> 
> But it is  Looking at the block to see if it sits flush doesn't tell the full story. Try both out, but it's a big drop in performance going to other brands' mounting. Actually, I think it was just a few days ago people here were talking about using Optimus mounting with other blocks and how it's better.


@0451 This is very true. I had a Kryos Next block which is one of the top blocks out there. But switching to the Optimus signature block dropped my temperatures by about 15-20C simply because of the better contact from not using springs. The entire point of thermal paste is to create better contact between the cold plate and the IHS. Getting some nice pressure pushing them together does a world of good. That's a level of pressure you could never get from the spring tension on other blocks.


----------



## NorySS

Optimus WC said:


> and now all blocks are delayed because nory wants pizza


i am more than fine taking on the role of the bad guy.


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> @0451 This is very true. I had a Kryos Next block which is one of the top blocks out there. But switching to the Optimus signature block dropped my temperatures by about 15-20C simply because of the better contact from not using springs. The entire point of thermal paste is to create better contact between the cold plate and the IHS. Getting some nice pressure pushing them together does a world of good. That's a level of pressure you could never get from the spring tension on other blocks.


15-20c is insanely good  That's the Signature block just kicking ass, it has way more to do than just springs  The temp drop for springless mounting should be around 2c improvement over a perfectly compressed spring mounting system -- apples being apples, of course, on the same blocks etc etc. 

Though if a spring-mounted block is installed incorrectly -- bad pressure across all four corners -- then you could see something like 15-20c difference. Really, the springless mount makes it easier to get the correct pressure on all sides.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Optimus WC said:


> If you go with other mounting other than the Optimus mounting for regular IHS, you'll have lower performance. This is one thing we've tested out a million times, going back years  And is discussed for like 100s of pages in this thread, in fact MUCH of this thread is about the posts because people didn't believe hard-mount w/o springs is better.
> 
> But it is  Looking at the block to see if it sits flush doesn't tell the full story. Try both out, but it's a big drop in performance going to other brands' mounting. Actually, I think it was just a few days ago people here were talking about using Optimus mounting with other blocks and how it's better.





HyperMatrix said:


> @0451 This is very true. I had a Kryos Next block which is one of the top blocks out there. But switching to the Optimus signature block dropped my temperatures by about 15-20C simply because of the better contact from not using springs. The entire point of thermal paste is to create better contact between the cold plate and the IHS. Getting some nice pressure pushing them together does a world of good. That's a level of pressure you could never get from the spring tension on other blocks.



I understand the performance would be better if I used the Optimus posts for direct die as intended, but I am talking about using the Optimus block on an IHS. As you can see from the picture I posted earlier, there is an enormous gap between the block and the posts when using the Optimus block with Optimus posts on a non-delidded 11900K. This gap will lead to significant bending of the PCB if I try to torque down the nuts. With the EK posts, the gap is closed. Does that make sense? I can post a picture later.


----------



## Optimus WC

0451 said:


> I understand the performance would be better if I used the Optimus posts for direct die as intended, but I am talking about using the Optimus block on an IHS. As you can see from the picture I posted earlier, there is an enormous gap between the block and the posts when using the Optimus block with Optimus posts on a non-delidded 11900K. This gap will lead to significant bending of the PCB if I try to torque down the nuts. With the EK posts, the gap is closed. Does that make sense? I can post a picture later.


Yup, not talking about direct die, 99.99% of our blocks are used on IHS, only madmen delid 10 and 11 gen 

Nearly everyone here has the blocks on the IHS, that's how we use them and what they're made for. I get it about the bend, but trust us, it's how it's made to work


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, not talking about direct die, 99.99% of our blocks are used on IHS, only madmen delid 10 and 11 gen
> 
> Nearly everyone here has the blocks on the IHS, that's how we use them and what they're made for. I get it about the bend, but trust us, it's how it's made to work


Well, challenge accepted. I’ll test with a 11900K:

Optimus block, Optimus posts
Optimus block, EK posts and backplate 
EK block, EK posts and backplate


----------



## NorySS

Just wanted to add some pictures of the strix block. I wanted to correct myself, they are using torx not using hex drive counter sunk screws for cold plate.
the acrylic is crystal clear considering how thick it is. Kinda reminds me of the ‘glass’ banks use at the tellers.

The last picture is off my lawn, with my phones camera about 1mm away from the acrylic.


----------



## lostsupper

iamjanco said:


> *Your LinkedIn profile* says you're a company of 0-10 employees. Do you ever feel like you've been overextending yourselves?
> 
> While it might not make good business sense to some, I think a little more transparency could go a long ways given the likes of your audience/customer base here (and elsewhere). Some of us are willing to wait a little longer and pay more for a quality product, but not being responsive to inquiries (especially from those who've paid for a product which has yet to arrive) only causes consternation. That said, here's to hoping you get over your growing pains as soon as feasibly possible.


Well said. It's an admirable goal to have the best customer service and two-day turnarounds, but until then some up front transparency is much needed. It would be a much better customer experience if everything that wasn't in stock was treated more like made-to-order or group buy scenarios. You won't lose any sales by having more realistic turn-around times on your site. And if ship dates do slip, we shouldn't have to track down sales reps on third-party sites for answers. 

Nobody's mad about production delays; everyone is disappointed when shipping dates are missed with no heads-up or explanation.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

lostsupper said:


> Well said. It's an admirable goal to have the best customer service and two-day turnarounds, but until then some up front transparency is much needed. It would be a much better customer experience if everything that wasn't in stock was treated more like made-to-order or group buy scenarios. You won't lose any sales by having more realistic turn-around times on your site. And if ship dates do slip, we shouldn't have to track down sales reps on third-party sites for answers.
> 
> Nobody's mad about production delays; everyone is disappointed when shipping dates are missed with no heads-up or explanation.


You know what bugs me the most?

It’s not the delay,it’s the constant lying and delaying of keeping us updated and waiting till the last second to give us customers a update.
Example… even now,they know 100% they can’t make the deadline yet they still have 4-6 weeks on their website? Basically you are deliberately lying to get money in and then “ohhhh sorry,it’s not us it’s 1000 other factors etc etc…”

Why the F….did we need to wait literally for 6 weeks all of us for them to tell us it’ll take another 2ish weeks for the very first guys who bought it to start shipping? You knew waaaaay before that,that you won’t be able to deliver on time.
Just f…ing communicate with us! 
I bought mine on the 10th June around 10ish pm, I’ll get mine soonest sometime next week.
That’s a full 2 months since I’ve spent $500CAD for a GPU Waterblock. 
I have money I don’t care to much about it,or you,or Section31,shawnb69 etc etc…but imagine someone with less money who saved for a long time who just spent $400 or $600usd (New KPE),guy is all excited and happy and what after 6 weeks emails Optimus to not get a response. Not really a nice feeling for anyone especially them!

Honestly idk how smart this is what they’re doing but if you want people to spend this chunk of money on watercooling you better step up your game as soon as tmr and start being transparent. There aren’t many of us who are willing to spend $400-$600usd on GPU blocks,people are cheap as hell we all know that. So it’s best in OPTIMU’s interest to cut out this s*&$ and start acting like adults. 
Do I like their stuff? Ofc but my patience won’t stick with this crap much longer. Most of us are pissed here in some way or another.

Just let me know “Hey,it’s OPTIMUS thanks you dumb F…for your money,now you’ll have to wait another 3 weeks for bla bla blaaa reason,K bye” and I’m good,that’s all just let me know and people won’t bug you.


Enough,now I got to go buy some custom cables… @Section31 is going to make me go bankrupt 🙁


----------



## D-EJ915

0451 said:


> It seems like the motherboard would flex. Is this block meant for direct die?


Every time I've tried their mount kit on my Apex my OC has been unstable, I can't recommend them for mainstream because of that. Contrary to what they believe, board flex is an issue.


----------



## NorySS

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> You know what bugs me the most?
> 
> It’s not the delay,it’s the constant lying and delaying of keeping us updated and waiting till the last second to give us customers a update.
> Example… even now,they know 100% they can’t make the deadline yet they still have 4-6 weeks on their website? Basically you are deliberately lying to get money in and then “ohhhh sorry,it’s not us it’s 1000 other factors etc etc…”
> 
> Why the F….did we need to wait literally for 6 weeks all of us for them to tell us it’ll take another 2ish weeks for the very first guys who bought it to start shipping? You knew waaaaay before that,that you won’t be able to deliver on time.
> Just f…ing communicate with us!
> I bought mine on the 10th June around 10ish pm, I’ll get mine soonest sometime next week.
> That’s a full 2 months since I’ve spent $500CAD for a GPU Waterblock.
> I have money I don’t care to much about it,or you,or Section31,shawnb69 etc etc…but imagine someone with less money who saved for a long time who just spent $400 or $600usd (New KPE),guy is all excited and happy and what after 6 weeks emails Optimus to not get a response. Not really a nice feeling for anyone especially them!
> 
> Honestly idk how smart this is what they’re doing but if you want people to spend this chunk of money on watercooling you better step up your game as soon as tmr and start being transparent. There aren’t many of us who are willing to spend $400-$600usd on GPU blocks,people are cheap as hell we all know that. So it’s best in OPTIMU’s interest to cut out this s*&$ and start acting like adults.
> Do I like their stuff? Ofc but my patience won’t stick with this crap much longer. Most of us are pissed here in some way or another.
> 
> Just let me know “Hey,it’s OPTIMUS thanks you dumb F…for your money,now you’ll have to wait another 3 weeks for bla bla blaaa reason,K bye” and I’m good,that’s all just let me know and people won’t bug you.
> 
> 
> Enough,now I got to go buy some custom cables… @Section31 is going to make me go bankrupt 🙁


I don’t recommend you buy anything right now. Delays are every where. You should see the EKWB delays lol


----------



## Section31

NorySS said:


> I don’t recommend you buy anything right now. Delays are every where. You should see the EKWB delays lol


Normal Ranting.


----------



## LiquidHaus

D-EJ915 said:


> Every time I've tried their mount kit on my Apex my OC has been unstable, I can't recommend them for mainstream because of that. Contrary to what they believe, board flex is an issue.


one reason to look for a high pcb layer count motherboard.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Optimus block with EK mounting posts is hellaflush.












LiquidHaus said:


> one reason to look for a high pcb layer count motherboard.


In that case I'm glad I have a 12 layer mobo.


----------



## Shawnb99

Anyone know how to work a sonic cleaner? Can’t seem to find an instructor or owners manual


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Shawnb99 said:


> Anyone know how to work a sonic cleaner? Can’t seem to find an instructor or owners manual
> 
> View attachment 2520132



Add RO water to fill line and press play. There should be a tray inside to keep parts off the bottom.


----------



## Shawnb99

0451 said:


> Add RO water to fill line and press play. There should be a tray inside to keep parts off the bottom.


that’s it? Looks way more complicated. Like what do I do with all this stuff? There’s also a nozzle that looks like it hooks up to a water line or something.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Shawnb99 said:


> that’s it? Looks way more complicated. Like what do I do with all this stuff? There’s also a nozzle that looks like it hooks up to a water line or something.
> 
> View attachment 2520133


Uh, it looks like you have a built in RO generator. Since I've only used these at work, I would call maintenance 🤣


----------



## Shawnb99

0451 said:


> Uh, it looks like you have a built in RO generator. Since I've only used these at work, I would call maintenance 🤣


It was bought at an auction. No one knows how to use it. I’ll see if I can figure it out.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Shawnb99 said:


> It was bought at an auction. No one knows how to use it. I’ll see if I can figure it out.


You really just have to figure out how to use the RO water supply. None of the sonicators I've used had an RO generator since we had a plant supply. Sonicators are just giant stainless steel bathtubs with a couple of sonic generators under the bottom tray. You could clean extra greasy (Post LN2) parts with tap water, but if you want your parts spotless, RO/purified will give you the full benefit.


----------



## superguest

@Shawn99
Are those sound dampening foams or just regular filters in the side panels of your TH10?

Any info (e.g., brand, where-to-buy, price)?


----------



## Shawnb99

superguest said:


> @Shawn99
> Are those sound dampening foams or just regular filters in the side panels of your TH10?
> 
> Any info (e.g., brand, where-to-buy, price)?


Acoustic sound proofing. 7mm on the side panels, have some 12mm in the pedestal and few spots I used the 5mm as well. Doesn’t eliminate the noise but helped a decent amount 






AcoustiPack Multi-Layer Material Packs


The AcoustiPack is the last word in acoustic material kits - for customers who demand the very best, here it is!




quietpc.ca


----------



## superguest

Thanks for the info.
($73CAD + Shipping + Brokerage fees + Taxes) for three sheets. They betta be good.


----------



## Biggu

I would assume the filtration system just cleans the solution inside that way it doesn't get as dirty as quick. I have a little tiny sonic cleaner and its literally fill it, turn it on and put items in the basket and walk away.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah if it wasn’t for the filtration system I think I could figure it out easily. Hopefully I can figure it out.


----------



## Optimus WC

0451 said:


> Optimus block with EK mounting posts is hellaflush.
> 
> View attachment 2520131
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In that case I'm glad I have a 12 layer mobo.


I'm confused, what area are you referring to as flush? Cold plate to IHS? Or bracket to post standoffs?


----------



## Biggu

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah if it wasn’t for the filtration system I think I could figure it out easily. Hopefully I can figure it out.


I mean it seems pretty simple to me, it looks like it pulls from the the right side into filter 1, then filter 2, then into the pump and where ever it outlets into the pump. The gauge on there just measures how much pressure or vacuum to tell you the status of your filters. if it gets high time to change filters. 

Looked it up and you may be missing a component. 





APC4800 Ultrasonic Cleaner | Ultrasonic Cleaning Products | Precision Cleaning Equipment | Ultrasonics International | Sonic Pro


Ultrasonic Cleaning offers APC4800 Ultrasonic Cleaner and Ultrasonic Cleaning equipment that cleans more thoroughly than traditional cleaning. Ultrasonics International provides Ultrasonic Cleaning equipment for businesses operational efficiency




sonicpro.com


----------



## Shawnb99

Biggu said:


> I mean it seems pretty simple to me, it looks like it pulls from the the right side into filter 1, then filter 2, then into the pump and where ever it outlets into the pump. The gauge on there just measures how much pressure or vacuum to tell you the status of your filters. if it gets high time to change filters.
> 
> Looked it up and you may be missing a component.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> APC4800 Ultrasonic Cleaner | Ultrasonic Cleaning Products | Precision Cleaning Equipment | Ultrasonics International | Sonic Pro
> 
> 
> Ultrasonic Cleaning offers APC4800 Ultrasonic Cleaner and Ultrasonic Cleaning equipment that cleans more thoroughly than traditional cleaning. Ultrasonics International provides Ultrasonic Cleaning equipment for businesses operational efficiency
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sonicpro.com


Thanks. I’ll check if it’s missing anything. All I know is it was bought at auction, apparently they wanted a different model or something. No one knows how to use it so it’s just been sitting idle for a few years.

Just wish I could find an owners manual for it


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Optimus WC said:


> I'm confused, what area are you referring to as flush? Cold plate to IHS? Or bracket to post standoffs?


The coldplate is resting on the IHS and the 4 arms are almost grazing the posts. I could make more clearance by removing the plastic washers between the posts and the motherboards. I hope to test this tonight or tomorrow when I’m done cleaning my radiators.


----------



## Optimus WC

0451 said:


> The coldplate is resting on the IHS and the 4 arms are almost grazing the posts. I could make more clearance by removing the plastic washers between the posts and the motherboards. I hope to test this tonight or tomorrow when I’m done cleaning my radiators.


So you don't want the post standoffs to touch the block arms, otherwise the mounting pressure will be on the posts, not on the cold plate to IHS.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC Can you shed any light on how to work that Ultrasonic cleaner I linked? I’m assuming so far it just needs a water source but it’s not mine and rather be sure if what I’m doing then destroying something that expensive


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC Can you shed any light on how to work that Ultrasonic cleaner I linked? I’m assuming so far it just needs a water source but it’s not mine and rather be sure if what I’m doing then destroying something that expensive


Yeah no idea, we use smaller ones 🤷‍♂️


----------



## chibi

Shawn, can you just bypass the filters completely? Just fill it with some tap water and turn it on to test. The basic concept of sonic cleaning is water vibration to knock off dirt/particles from whatever you dunk into the basket. See if you can get it running on barebones and then you can add you own ro water later if you can't figure out the system.


----------



## Shawnb99

chibi said:


> Shawn, can you just bypass the filters completely? Just fill it with some tap water and turn it on to test. The basic concept of sonic cleaning is water vibration to knock off dirt/particles from whatever you dunk into the basket. See if you can get it running on barebones and then you can add you own ro water later if you can't figure out the system.



Yeah I'll try that. I'm determined to get it working now since it'll fit all my radiators.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah I'll try that. I'm determined to get it working now since it'll fit all my radiators.


Are you repainting them?


----------



## Shawnb99

0451 said:


> Are you repainting them?


So it will take off all the paint? I kinda assumed so. Yeah I guess I'll have to.


----------



## chibi

Most likely just getting all the junk out from the internal tubes. Optimus posted very damning results on HWL rads a while ago. They're dirty AF inside.


----------



## Shawnb99

I was likely going to buy one myself but wasn't looking forward to paying for one that'll fit a 560. This beast will likely fit all 7 of my radiators at once.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Most likely just getting all the junk out from the internal tubes. Optimus posted very damning results on HWL rads a while ago. They're dirty AF inside.


You mean me also lol. So far so good with Watercool stuff (after getting rid of the flux).


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I was likely going to buy one myself but wasn't looking forward to paying for one that'll fit a 560. This beast will likely fit all 7 of my radiators at once.


Clean up those rads before you install that kingpin block lol.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Shawnb99 said:


> So it will take off all the paint? I kinda assumed so. Yeah I guess I'll have to.


It might. Sonication is voodoo. If paint starts to flake off, I would stop and plug the radiator ports to keep the paint from getting inside.

Sonic waves will be bouncing around in the tank so I wouldn’t fill the whole thing with radiators, as it might reduce effectiveness. You might be able to see where the generators are positioned by looking under the tank. That is where I would position the radiators.


----------



## Shawnb99

0451 said:


> It might. Sonication is voodoo. If paint starts to flake off, I would stop and plug the radiator ports to keep the paint from getting inside.
> 
> Sonic waves will be bouncing around in the tank so I wouldn’t fill the whole thing with radiators, as it might reduce effectiveness. You might be able to see where the generators are positioned by looking under the tank. That is where I would position the radiators.


Yeah no I won't do all at once. Likely just do two at once or so once I figure out what I'm doing.


----------



## JustinThyme

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I’m #OP4728
> 
> Well 2 months ago I bought one of their blemished reservoirs (at that time they didn’t have the custom builds),payed for everything and suddenly crickets. 1 week passes nothing,I write an email to ask nicely if there is a issue…No response,after another 5 business days wrote them again what’s going on and guess what crickets again.
> Extra week passes then I was pissed,like really pissed!
> That next email you can guess how that looked like and the language…Suddenly Matt responds in 2ish hours,apologizing how they didn’t have the color but they can give me nickel instead of silver (which was even better for me,didn’t have it at the time I bought). Basically took the money and deliberately played stupid for 3 weeks till they finally received something to present me with.
> Except for the quality that they provide they’re lacking massively in every other aspect!


Thats been the major gripe with pretty much everyone all along. Crickets. I got into a pretty heated PM exchange after waiting 4 months for a response and was told they now have a team of several people that does nothing but CS and replying to inquiries. I guess they all contracted the Delta variant.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Thats been the major gripe with pretty much everyone all along. Crickets. I got into a pretty heated PM exchange after waiting 4 months for a response and was told they now have a team of several people that does nothing but CS and replying to inquiries. I guess they all contracted the Delta variant.


That guy ranted a lot. It was also including watercool etc so this guy is more normal ranting person


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> You mean me also lol. So far so good with Watercool stuff (after getting rid of the flux).


No, I was referring to Optimus below. My question is, how did @Optimus WC ultrasonic just the inside of the rads? Don't all ultrasonic devices use a big tub where you dunk the parts in?




Optimus WC said:


> Haha, noooo, just ref.
> 
> This is a pic of fluid from inside a Hardware Labs radiator after being ultra sonic cleaned. This fluid was from only the inside, not outside paint or anything. It's a mix of solder flux, brass, copper, etc. So if you're wondering why material buildup shows up on blocks, this is why. Even a good rinse doesn't do the same thing as ultrasonic cleaning (or blasting water through the rad continuously).
> 
> View attachment 2462645
> 
> View attachment 2462646


----------



## D-EJ915

LiquidHaus said:


> one reason to look for a high pcb layer count motherboard.


Some of us care about more than marketing. 



Section31 said:


> Clean up those rads before you install that kingpin block lol.


Since I have no use for my 2nd foundation block it works well as an in-line filter for running through new stuff lol.


----------



## Section31

D-EJ915 said:


> Some of us care about more than marketing.
> 
> 
> Since I have no use for my 2nd foundation block it works well as an in-line filter for running through new stuff lol.


That's interesting. I might do that for when i get an signature block down the road. Since i'm going back to Intel within 2years, its likely my next cpu block.


----------



## HyperMatrix

chibi said:


> No, I was referring to Optimus below. My question is, how did @Optimus WC ultrasonic just the inside of the rads? Don't all ultrasonic devices use a big tub where you dunk the parts in?


You can put objects in enclosures. For example, small items inside a glass jar in your ultrasonic, as long as both your ultrasonic cleaner is full of water, as is the glass jar. In this case, I would assume that the radiator was filled with water, and the the ports were sealed. So the entire thing would have been submerged and cleaned. But the water on the outside and the water on the inside wouldn't have mixed, allowing you to drain it out and see the contaminants clearly.


----------



## Optimus WC

Ah, yes we put a rad in a smaller ultrasonic, not a monster like the one Shawn has. Just get water inside the rad inside the tub, ports facing up, shake out the bubbles then turn the ultrasonic on. It shakes all the crap loose and will stay inside the rad, then just take the rad out and drain it to see the filth. Because of the way the ultrasonic works, it cleans off stuff that would otherwise not come off with just water running through a loop. Or using loop cleaner which really doesnt do much. I imagine if you had a super small ultra you could dip half a rad at a time, it'll work just fine, as long as there is water inside the rad.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Has anyone tried cleaning a radiator with salt and alcohol? Like a bong.


----------



## JustinThyme

Optimus WC said:


> Ah, yes we put a rad in a smaller ultrasonic, not a monster like the one Shawn has. Just get water inside the rad inside the tub, ports facing up, shake out the bubbles then turn the ultrasonic on. It shakes all the crap loose and will stay inside the rad, then just take the rad out and drain it to see the filth. Because of the way the ultrasonic works, it cleans off stuff that would otherwise not come off with just water running through a loop. Or using loop cleaner which really doesnt do much. I imagine if you had a super small ultra you could dip half a rad at a time, it'll work just fine, as long as there is water inside the rad.


Ultrasonic without a cleaning solution to dissolve flux does precisely squat. 


0451 said:


> Has anyone tried cleaning a radiator with salt and alcohol? Like a bong.


Surprised it took this long to get a head in here! LOL
Cant say anything for salt but the alcohol doesnt work. Need something slightly but not overly acidic. Next time Im going to try some of the industrial citric cleaner. Coca-Cola overnight works great! Been doing it that way for years. Just acidic enough and the carbonation will boil most of it out then just follow with a HOT tap water rinse and DW rinse behind that and good to go.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

JustinThyme said:


> Thats been the major gripe with pretty much everyone all along. Crickets. I got into a pretty heated PM exchange after waiting 4 months for a response and was told they now have a team of several people that does nothing but CS and replying to inquiries. I guess they all contracted the Delta variant.


I don’t really care what people here or anywhere think about ranting or what I say,if something isn’t right I’ll tell you straight up!

I’m sick of this pretending like how we are all ok with them making fools out of us. I’m not ok if I payed you $420 effing dollars for a GPU that you literally wait 6 weeks to tell us how it’s not your fault,how it’s this that etc etc…that’s exactly the reason why they do this to us because we pretend it’s ok and everyone hates being that guy “WHO RANTS”.
If we all just stay away from the next thing they bring out ohhhh boy how they’ll suddenly change in a matter of seconds to get that money in,but ofc god forbid you say something. It’s ok I guess nowadays paying upfront a **** ton of money and then acting like you’re ok waiting 2-4 months to get your stuff because you DON’T WANT TO BE THAT GUY,right?!

Josh was answering me when it was about some random bs,once I asked about my Strix block (about 7-8 days before the shipping should have started) and the 2x Fuji pads I bought along suddenly he goes dead silent…crickets,like nada. How come???
That means you have zero respect towards me, simple as that!

Whatever,as long as people act like this they’ll all continue making fools out of us. Watercool takes your money and needs now 28 BUSINESS DAYS to just start shipping it out,are you f….ing kidding me or what?

I always said,COVID was a god given gift for every company the last 1.5 years…they’ll milk COVID as a excuse for the next 15 years and then another 10 years till it settles down 

They have several people doing CS and 2 days ago he tells us how they are trying to get better with communicating lmao…but ofc we need to be ok with the lie,you don’t want to be the angry/crazy ranting guy,do you?!

They’re stuff is top but everything else is mediocre and that’s being generous because as you can see I’m a nice guy 🙂


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> That guy ranted a lot. It was also including watercool etc so this guy is more normal ranting person


Thats about the funniest thing Ive seen posted here. I just spit out my ice tea and damn near pi$$ed my drawers!!!

If I shared my PM exchange I'm sure it would hurt your eyes! Don't know who it was as they remained nameless but had I reported it in any other forum they would have been banned, yes it was that bad and I had thoughts of C&P here and on social media of the entire conversation but somehow (maybe the double dose of valium and drinking the bong water) the word "Ethical" entered my head and decided to leave well enough alone. It was mostly taking things I posted in this thread out of context and only reading and "hearing" what he/she wanted to, snippets of my posts and twisting it out of context. Once I got them off of bashing and into a semi normal conversation there should be no slow downs in production as they have deployed a dozen state of the art CNC Machines and use robotics to load them and growing the facility hence the new PR team.......At least thats what was written. I cant say one way or the other as I didn't show up at their door step like the reddit dude did but they have been posting a little more often but looking at people still complaining about no responses to messages or emails tells a different story. I can email any of the other manufacturers and have a reply whether I like what the response was or not inside of 24 hours. Hell I can get more information from Duke at PPCs on their products. I chat with him often, my go to for parts. Always gives me a nice discount and if he knows I'm looking for something he will give me a heads up when they have the item/s inbound. That's a bit different though as that's a relationship built over a long period of doing business with them. I can call (ext 101) or email him and he replies sometimes almost instantly but generally within the hour. Now that's good service and he is the only guy in the sales dept.


----------



## acoustic

Idk what happened with you and watercool, but I had my Heatkiller rads preordered (among other items) and had zero issues. The items were coming all the way from Germany to the US, so much of the delays had nothing to do with Watercool.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Thats about the funniest thing Ive seen posted here. I just spit out my ice tea and damn near pi$$ed my drawers!!!
> 
> If I shared my PM exchange I'm sure it would hurt your eyes! Don't know who it was as they remained nameless but had I reported it in any other forum they would have been banned, yes it was that bad and I had thoughts of C&P here and on social media of the entire conversation but somehow (maybe the double dose of valium and drinking the bong water) the word "Ethical" entered my head and decided to leave well enough alone. It was mostly taking things I posted in this thread out of context and only reading and "hearing" what he/she wanted to, snippets of my posts and twisting it out of context. Once I got them off of bashing and into a semi normal conversation there should be no slow downs in production as they have deployed a dozen state of the art CNC Machines and use robotics to load them and growing the facility hence the new PR team.......At least thats what was written. I cant say one way or the other as I didn't show up at their door step like the reddit dude did but they have been posting a little more often but looking at people still complaining about no responses to messages or emails tells a different story. I can email any of the other manufacturers and have a reply whether I like what the response was or not inside of 24 hours. Hell I can get more information from Duke at PPCs on their products. I chat with him often, my go to for parts. Always gives me a nice discount and if he knows I'm looking for something he will give me a heads up when they have the item/s inbound. That's a bit different though as that's a relationship built over a long period of doing business with them. I can call (ext 101) or email him and he replies sometimes almost instantly but generally within the hour. Now that's good service and he is the only guy in the sales dept.


I love ppcs but shipping is only usps/ups/dhl. Ups is cheapest but i rather not use them. At least aquacomputer is back using dhl.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Section31 said:


> I love ppcs but shipping is only usps/ups/dhl. Ups is cheapest but i rather not use them. At least aquacomputer is back using dhl.


See ppcs was amazing for me,I’ve bought 7-8 times from them and used UPS each time. It literally got shipped out that day,picked up at around 5ish pm and arrived here in Toronto ever single time by 11am next day. I love them,2 times had to message them and both times I received a reply in 1-2h and it got fixed,plus they gave me both times a extra discount because it was on them.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Thats about the funniest thing Ive seen posted here. I just spit out my ice tea and damn near pi$$ed my drawers!!!
> 
> If I shared my PM exchange I'm sure it would hurt your eyes! Don't know who it was as they remained nameless but had I reported it in any other forum they would have been banned, yes it was that bad and I had thoughts of C&P here and on social media of the entire conversation but somehow (maybe the double dose of valium and drinking the bong water) the word "Ethical" entered my head and decided to leave well enough alone. It was mostly taking things I posted in this thread out of context and only reading and "hearing" what he/she wanted to, snippets of my posts and twisting it out of context. Once I got them off of bashing and into a semi normal conversation there should be no slow downs in production as they have deployed a dozen state of the art CNC Machines and use robotics to load them and growing the facility hence the new PR team.......At least thats what was written. I cant say one way or the other as I didn't show up at their door step like the reddit dude did but they have been posting a little more often but looking at people still complaining about no responses to messages or emails tells a different story. I can email any of the other manufacturers and have a reply whether I like what the response was or not inside of 24 hours. Hell I can get more information from Duke at PPCs on their products. I chat with him often, my go to for parts. Always gives me a nice discount and if he knows I'm looking for something he will give me a heads up when they have the item/s inbound. That's a bit different though as that's a relationship built over a long period of doing business with them. I can call (ext 101) or email him and he replies sometimes almost instantly but generally within the hour. Now that's good service and he is the only guy in the sales dept.


That guy also if you talk to him is quite ok. Very much an enuthiast. Guy an Keyboard enuthiast too and that stuff not cheap (more than optimus stuff) and most groupbuy have super long delays atm. So let it off as rant.


----------



## Shawnb99

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I don’t really care what people here or anywhere think about ranting or what I say,if something isn’t right I’ll tell you straight up!
> 
> I’m sick of this pretending like how we are all ok with them making fools out of us. I’m not ok if I payed you $420 effing dollars for a GPU that you literally wait 6 weeks to tell us how it’s not your fault,how it’s this that etc etc…that’s exactly the reason why they do this to us because we pretend it’s ok and everyone hates being that guy “WHO RANTS”.
> If we all just stay away from the next thing they bring out ohhhh boy how they’ll suddenly change in a matter of seconds to get that money in,but ofc god forbid you say something. It’s ok I guess nowadays paying upfront a **** ton of money and then acting like you’re ok waiting 2-4 months to get your stuff because you DON’T WANT TO BE THAT GUY,right?!
> 
> Josh was answering me when it was about some random bs,once I asked about my Strix block (about 7-8 days before the shipping should have started) and the 2x Fuji pads I bought along suddenly he goes dead silent…crickets,like nada. How come???
> That means you have zero respect towards me, simple as that!
> 
> Whatever,as long as people act like this they’ll all continue making fools out of us. Watercool takes your money and needs now 28 BUSINESS DAYS to just start shipping it out,are you f….ing kidding me or what?
> 
> I always said,COVID was a god given gift for every company the last 1.5 years…they’ll milk COVID as a excuse for the next 15 years and then another 10 years till it settles down
> 
> They have several people doing CS and 2 days ago he tells us how they are trying to get better with communicating lmao…but ofc we need to be ok with the lie,you don’t want to be the angry/crazy ranting guy,do you?!
> 
> They’re stuff is top but everything else is mediocre and that’s being generous because as you can see I’m a nice guy 🙂



This is what happens when you pre-order during a pandemic. If you can't handle the delays, lack of communication and all that then maybe don't pre-order anything and stick to what's in stock. When you WC with the latest newest gear you have to wait for ****. Specially if you're buying from a small new company like Optimus. If you can't handle that then maybe stick to EKWB and AIO's cause custom latest greatest WC isn't for you.


----------



## Biggu

0451 said:


> It might. Sonication is voodoo. If paint starts to flake off, I would stop and plug the radiator ports to keep the paint from getting inside.
> 
> Sonic waves will be bouncing around in the tank so I wouldn’t fill the whole thing with radiators, as it might reduce effectiveness. You might be able to see where the generators are positioned by looking under the tank. That is where I would position the radiators.


I mean everything should just loosen up but that is why his system has the filtration. to get the water/ solution to move around and filter out the dirt particles. Looking at what he posted and what I found online it looks like he is missing the control box unless that was just not pictured. Im sure if you call the manufacture or the company I linked and asked they could probably get the manual


----------



## eullin

Hi, 
i am in love with this Absolute Threadripper 3+ CPU Block and would like to install it in a very custom mod with ASUS Pro WS WRX80E-SAGE SE WIFI AMD Threadripper Pro + AMD Ryzen Threadripper PRO 3975WX in a thermaltake cope P5 box and 480mm radiator . 
the problem is the cost of shipping costs to Spain, taxes, VAT ... more than $ 280 minimum ... 
is there a seller in Europe? 

Thanks in advance.
Regards

eullin


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Biggu said:


> I mean everything should just loosen up but that is why his system has the filtration. to get the water/ solution to move around and filter out the dirt particles. Looking at what he posted and what I found online it looks like he is missing the control box unless that was just not pictured. Im sure if you call the manufacture or the company I linked and asked they could probably get the manual


You’ve reached the limit of my knowledge of sonicators. If there are parts missing, I wouldn’t know what they are.

I have used the smaller machines to clean stainless steel equipment. I’ve used the large bathtub sized ones for reducing the particle size in liquid suspensions. I haven’t used a sonicator for copper or painted surfaces. I know they absolutely destroy aluminum. Our procedure for testing the sonicators was to place a piece of aluminum foil in the bath for 10 minutes and if the foil dissolved or resembled swiss cheese, we would pass the unit.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

To answer some quick questions:

ULTRASONIC:
-Using DI, RO, or distilled is fine, that's what we do, we actually constantly filter the water inside the tank for cleaning all our parts. 
-To do extreme cleaning, there is ultra sonic cleaning fluids and heated water, which works well, but is overkill for what we're talking about here. It's for getting off baked on oils etc.
-Don't put lots of items in the tank, just do one at a time. Because of how ultra works, it vibrates the particles, so anything else in the tank will either delay or stop the cleaning from happening. 
-So simply: just dip the rad in the tank, don't let it touch the bottom or sides, for 30-60 seconds. Done.
-Don't put your hand in the water while it's running.
-You can dip aluminum (we do) just do it quick. Ultra will also eat away copper, but don't leave it in there for too long, it's overkill, you're just trying to get loose stuff out of the radiators or whatever.
-If you go hard core and leave it in the tank, it could eventually eat holes through a radiator. 

INTERNATIONAL: Yes! We want to get distribution in EU once we can produce enough product, we're working on it, most likely we'll have the expanded capacity early next year.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I love ppcs but shipping is only usps/ups/dhl. Ups is cheapest but i rather not use them. At least aquacomputer is back using dhl.


Yeah you guys get banged at the border. I have no issues here. I’ve been doing businesses with them so long I get free expedited shipping. Crossing the Canadian border with UPS really sucks both directions. Coming from Canada to the US through the postal service is usually seamless but takes awhile. Go UPS and guaranteed you get banged with an import fee but that’s not the hard part to swallow, it’s the UPS brokerage fee that’s almost always more than the import tariffs.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Shawnb99 said:


> This is what happens when you pre-order during a pandemic. If you can't handle the delays, lack of communication and all that then maybe don't pre-order anything and stick to what's in stock. When you WC with the latest newest gear you have to wait for ****. Specially if you're buying from a small new company like Optimus. If you can't handle that then maybe stick to EKWB and AIO's cause custom latest greatest WC isn't for you.



Seems as if you yourself had some issues handling the not responding/communication recently ehhhhh???



Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC When can I send my card in? Will you respond to a ****ing email already?



Stop acting stupid and pretending like you’re ok with what they’re doing,you aren’t like nobody here is but you’ll swallow it because their products will give you the 2-3 degree advantage nothing more!

I don’t want to argue with anyone,you have your opinion I have mine. After my Strix arrives I’ll see how they continue if it’s like this the 2-3 degrees plus/minus isn’t worth it for me giving them my money and listening to bs excuses day after day. Good thing they always have a link on hand to post how they’re the best,they never miss on that opportunity to respond,do they?!


----------



## Shawnb99

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Seems as if you yourself had some issues handling the not responding/communication recently ehhhhh???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stop acting stupid and pretending like you’re ok with what they’re doing,you aren’t like nobody here is but you’ll swallow it because their products will give you the 2-3 degree advantage nothing more!
> 
> I don’t want to argue with anyone,you have your opinion I have mine. After my Strix arrives I’ll see how they continue if it’s like this the 2-3 degrees plus/minus isn’t worth it for me giving them my money and listening to bs excuses day after day. Good thing they always have a link on hand to post how they’re the best,they never miss on that opportunity to respond,do they?!



Stop acting like a ****ing child.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Shawnb99 said:


> Stop acting like a ****ing child.


I’ll stop when you stop!


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> To answer some quick questions:
> 
> ULTRASONIC:
> -Using DI, RO, or distilled is fine, that's what we do, we actually constantly filter the water inside the tank for cleaning all our parts.
> -To do extreme cleaning, there is ultra sonic cleaning fluids and heated water, which works well, but is overkill for what we're talking about here. It's for getting off baked on oils etc.
> -Don't put lots of items in the tank, just do one at a time. Because of how ultra works, it vibrates the particles, so anything else in the tank will either delay or stop the cleaning from happening.
> -So simply: just dip the rad in the tank, don't let it touch the bottom or sides, for 30-60 seconds. Done.
> -Don't put your hand in the water while it's running.
> -You can dip aluminum (we do) just do it quick. Ultra will also eat away copper, but don't leave it in there for too long, it's overkill, you're just trying to get loose stuff out of the radiators or whatever.
> -If you go hard core and leave it in the tank, it could eventually eat holes through a radiator.
> 
> INTERNATIONAL: Yes! We want to get distribution in EU once we can produce enough product, we're working on it, most likely we'll have the expanded capacity early next year.


Great guide.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Y’all need to chill out. Yes Optimus has bad customer service and response times. Yes they don’t clearly state the expected delivery times on their website. Those are bad things. They should be called out for it. But once that’s known and is understood, there doesn’t need to be a constant barrage of swearing and hostility. You know the company has these problems. Don’t buy from them. Go to a competitor and support them instead. I wish I had an alternative. But for me....I want the performance I can get with their block vs the overpriced EVGA kingpin Hydro copper block. So I have to wait. But I’m not going to yell and swear and be aggressive about it in every single post. 

Shawn is wrong in the way he defended Optimus. Because Optimus does deserve most of the criticism it gets. But when you guys keep posting it over and over again in an aggressively hostile way when we’re already aware of it, you’re bound to get some reactions from people who hate your posts more than they hate Optimus’s customer service. 

So drop it.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Y’all need to chill out. Yes Optimus has bad customer service and response times. Yes they don’t clearly state the expected delivery times on their website. Those are bad things. They should be called out for it. But once that’s known and is understood, there doesn’t need to be a constant barrage of swearing and hostility. You know the company has these problems. Don’t buy from them. Go to a competitor and support them instead. I wish I had an alternative. But for me....I want the performance I can get with their block vs the overpriced EVGA kingpin Hydro copper block. So I have to wait. But I’m not going to yell and swear and be aggressive about it in every single post.
> 
> Shawn is wrong in the way he defended Optimus. Because Optimus does deserve most of the criticism it gets. But when you guys keep posting it over and over again in an aggressively hostile way when we’re already aware of it, you’re bound to get some reactions from people who hate your posts more than they hate Optimus’s customer service.
> 
> So drop it.


I agree with you. I think they both misunderstand eachother (i speak to both of them about the hobby). One was ranting generally but optimus was main beef. Lot more people ranting in general since the pandemic started. When your waiting for everything, you tend to be more easily irritated and Optimus takes the cake when it comes to delays.

To put the watercool rant into perspective, forest guy had opportunity to buy the watercool rads and get the items in early to mid-june as part of an east coast group buy from watercool direct but he didn’t respond in time. I was the guy who sold him the idea of watercool rads and also convinced the organizer on east coast to acutually run such an groupbuy. Can’t really say much about then paying 40euro shipping (when there were others still interested in the rad in the east coast).

The amount of advertising i did on those watercool rads and optimus lol. I am direct or indirectly responsible for 20ish such rads being imported into canada.


----------



## Shawnb99

Looks like I won't get to use that ultra sonic cleaner. Apparently it won't work without the power station and I don't believe it came with one so it's useless. Oh well.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Looks like I won't get to use that ultra sonic cleaner. Apparently it won't work without the power station and I don't believe it came with one so it's useless. Oh well.


That sucks. We should jointly buy one for future builds lol


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> That sucks. We should jointly buy one for future builds lol


The control unit only costs $9880 lol


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> The control unit only costs $9880 lol


Interesting we need to start an watercooling rig build shop at this rate


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> Y’all need to chill out. Yes Optimus has bad customer service and response times. Yes they don’t clearly state the expected delivery times on their website. Those are bad things. They should be called out for it. But once that’s known and is understood, there doesn’t need to be a constant barrage of swearing and hostility. You know the company has these problems. Don’t buy from them. Go to a competitor and support them instead. I wish I had an alternative. But for me....I want the performance I can get with their block vs the overpriced EVGA kingpin Hydro copper block. So I have to wait. But I’m not going to yell and swear and be aggressive about it in every single post.
> 
> Shawn is wrong in the way he defended Optimus. Because Optimus does deserve most of the criticism it gets. But when you guys keep posting it over and over again in an aggressively hostile way when we’re already aware of it, you’re bound to get some reactions from people who hate your posts more than they hate Optimus’s customer service.
> 
> So drop it.


Hmmm I agree and I’ll stop 🛑 

Section31 saw my build and the amount of effort/modifying that I’ve done/put into it and the last thing I need is the strix block and I’m basically waiting now 2 months for it. 
So my patience is extra thin plus I’m European and that doesn’t help either with being chill.
I got triggered when I saw 2-3 guys complaining plus my issue and Optimus didn’t respond but somehow found it more important to repost some random post from reddit how great their temps are then answering emails or stuff here…That’s all…

I didn’t mean to be a douche to you @Shawnb99 or anyone and I hope we can get over this and move on. 

As for the Heatkiller thing I bought the WHITE one and painted it black myself,I have no issue with watercool i just find it ridiculous that you sell stuff and write “it’ll be shipped in 25-28 business days” nothing more. Again that’s just me I could’ve left that out completely but I was in full ranting mode so stuff everything in I guess 😅🤷‍♂️ 

Yes,i effed up because @Section31 did tell me and I talked to someone about the group buy,but it was my own **** up and I missed it. Was also kinda a last second group buy were i had 2 rads brand new and was contemplating if I should buy another 2 and wait 3-4 weeks and literally had 3-4h to decide but I went to the gym because the big booty girls show up at 6-7pm!…but whatever it’s over and that’s it. (No groupbuy and booty was ok,nothing special)

I’ll stop ranting about Optimus and I hope 🤞 it ships out this coming week as Optimus Amber said 🙂 if it doesn’t ship by Friday you’ll see me again…(I’m joking)


----------



## lostsupper

I think it would be helpful for everyone if there was a pinned post in this thread letting people know about Optimus' transparency and customer service situation. It would prevent the rants and let prospective customers know what they're getting into.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

lostsupper said:


> I think it would be helpful for everyone if there was a pinned post in this thread letting people know about Optimus' transparency and customer service situation. It would prevent the rants and let prospective customers know what they're getting into.


I don’t think there’s a need for that because it was my fault and I started it this time!
If it wasn’t for me you guys probably wouldn’t have talked about it so I do 10million percent stand to what I wrote but at the end of the day my ranting/anyone’s just brings negativity and OPTIMUS eitherway won’t do **** so me and everyone should just continue on.

We don’t need negativity and I like you guys here…@Section31 helped me so much the last 1-2 weeks (mostly giving me bright ideas to spend almost an extra $1000 on cables,custom keyboards and what else he’ll come up with 😂🤣)

So again I apologize to everyone for steering this up unnecessary and @Shawnb99 I didn’t mean anything bad I just overreacted!

Now I’ll continue doing my cable management till my Strix arrives


----------



## Section31

It happens to the best of us.


----------



## RoivonPC

When did the method of mounting change for the Foundation waterblock? I was looking at instructions online to make sure I had the order in correct and I noticed that the instructions now say to not use the backplate. Doing some reading, it's my understanding that Optimus used to not utilize the backplate. So I called myself an idiot and proceeded to screw in the posts into my backplate but now I've stripped the threads in the plate as they're not the correct size. So can I still use the block without the backplate or not? Or should I order new posts and a new backplate as this one is probably screwed?

_Edit_

Ok I confirmed I'm not nuts, I found the picture of the old instructions.









Optimus Waterblock


Hi, Direct die would want a flat block since the die is flat. If you just install on a regular chip doubt it would workout very well since no chip is flat unless you lap it flat which well voids warranty just as delidding does. Not necessarily, they've specifically said few posts above, that...




www.overclock.net


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I am liking the Optimus block with EK posts. I'll do a comparison with the EK Supremacy EVO later.

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 video card benchmark result - Intel Core i9-11900K Processor,ASRock Z590 OC Formula (3dmark.com)


----------



## Optimus WC

RoivonPC said:


> When did the method of mounting change for the Foundation waterblock? I was looking at instructions online to make sure I had the order in correct and I noticed that the instructions now say to not use the backplate. Doing some reading, it's my understanding that Optimus used to not utilize the backplate. So I called myself an idiot and proceeded to screw in the posts into my backplate but now I've stripped the threads in the plate as they're not the correct size. So can I still use the block without the backplate or not? Or should I order new posts and a new backplate as this one is probably screwed?
> 
> _Edit_
> 
> Ok I confirmed I'm not nuts, I found the picture of the old instructions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimus Waterblock
> 
> 
> Hi, Direct die would want a flat block since the die is flat. If you just install on a regular chip doubt it would workout very well since no chip is flat unless you lap it flat which well voids warranty just as delidding does. Not necessarily, they've specifically said few posts above, that...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net


We switched to using the backplate probably a year ago, though I'd need to check. If you received the threaded rods, not posts with stops, then you can use the backplate. Share a pic of the posts you received to confirm.

All the instructions for everyone are on our website at the bottom of the product pages: Foundation CPU Block - AMD


----------



## acoustic

0451 said:


> I am liking the Optimus block with EK posts. I'll do a comparison with the EK Supremacy EVO later.
> 
> NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 video card benchmark result - Intel Core i9-11900K Processor,ASRock Z590 OC Formula (3dmark.com)


What made you use EK posts and not the Optimus mounting kit?


----------



## RoivonPC

Optimus WC said:


> We switched to using the backplate probably a year ago, though I'd need to check. If you received the threaded rods, not posts with stops, then you can use the backplate. Share a pic of the posts you received to confirm.
> 
> All the instructions for everyone are on our website at the bottom of the product pages: Foundation CPU Block - AMD
> 
> View attachment 2520345


I think they're the posts with stops. So I'm assuming the new ones have the correct threads.


Optimus WC said:


> We switched to using the backplate probably a year ago, though I'd need to check. If you received the threaded rods, not posts with stops, then you can use the backplate. Share a pic of the posts you received to confirm.
> 
> All the instructions for everyone are on our website at the bottom of the product pages: Foundation CPU Block - AMD
> 
> View attachment 2520345


Yeah, it has the posts. I assume I can order some from the site but I was hoping to have this up by next Friday.


----------



## Section31

RoivonPC said:


> I think they're the posts with stops. So I'm assuming the new ones have the correct threads.
> 
> 
> Yeah, it has the posts. I assume I can order some from the site but I was hoping to have this up by next Friday.
> 
> View attachment 2520349


I have both kits but i bought before they changed the system.


----------



## Optimus WC

RoivonPC said:


> I think they're the posts with stops. So I'm assuming the new ones have the correct threads.
> 
> 
> Yeah, it has the posts. I assume I can order some from the site but I was hoping to have this up by next Friday.
> 
> View attachment 2520349



Yes, replacements are available: CPU Mounting Hardware

BUT: your original hardware is just fine, use the black nuts to mount the posts and ditch the backplate. The backplate doesn't do anything, it even doesn't proven mobo bending -- it will bend with propper pressure. 

So up to you, some people want the new style, so that's why we changed. If you need your PC up and running asap, just use the original kit and you'll have the same performance


----------



## Optimus WC

0451 said:


> I am liking the Optimus block with EK posts. I'll do a comparison with the EK Supremacy EVO later.
> 
> NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 video card benchmark result - Intel Core i9-11900K Processor,ASRock Z590 OC Formula (3dmark.com)
> 
> View attachment 2520334


A couple points re: testing for everyone following along: 

Benchmarks should be run back-to-back and then redone back-to-back immediately after
Because parts will heat up and can cause compounded discrepancies. For example, the first test will benchmark much lower than the last one, because all the metal within the loop has finally heated up. It can take 45 mins for the brass in the radiators to reach temp.
Thus, by going back and rerunning the first test again after doing all the tests, it will show you how hot all the rest of the loop, PCB, rads, etc etc have gotten and show you how far off you are in the various tests. 
We have a very controlled system for testing. Even so, we do this kind of test cycling to get accurate results. 
Trying to adjust for ambient temp differences is very hard and won't yield exact results. So if the air is 2c higher in one test, that doesn't necessarily translate to 2c higher for the die temp.
Also, 2c higher ambient will mean liquid is 2c higher and so is everything else in the system. 
Any test that is less than 2c is within the margin of error, unless it's in a truly controlled environment. That means a temp-controlled room with a temp-regulated coolant system.
You can test this by just re-pasting the block and running the benchmark over and over, it will yield different results. 
Tests MUST not use variable speed fans or any kind of fan/pump ramping based on temp, then the test is entirely worthless. 

As for this specific test, try using the backplate with our mounting, see what happens, that would be the most interesting result, because we know the springs are hot trash, we -- and many others -- have tested this to death. 

Techpowerup did a full review of our Signature with the different mounting, go check it out. The caveat with the TPU review is he is using a weak DDC pump and barely pushes the CPU at all. So the real-world results for builders here will be much more dramatic the harder the CPU is pushed. 









Optimus Signature V2 CPU Block Review


Alongside the Optimus Foundation CPU block, we saw it fit to also cover the company's flagship Signature CPU block. In its second version, the Signature V2 for Intel CPU sockets features to good effect a thick unibody brass top and mounting bracket, as well as the cooling engine and other...




www.techpowerup.com


----------



## RoivonPC

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, replacements are available: CPU Mounting Hardware
> 
> BUT: your original hardware is just fine, use the black nuts to mount the posts and ditch the backplate. The backplate doesn't do anything, it even doesn't proven mobo bending -- it will bend with propper pressure.
> 
> So up to you, some people want the new style, so that's why we changed. If you need your PC up and running asap, just use the original kit and you'll have the same performance


Ok if the backplate really isn't engaged and the old system still works, I'll continue to use it. Thanks.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> A couple points re: testing for everyone following along:
> 
> Benchmarks should be run back-to-back and then redone back-to-back immediately after
> Because parts will heat up and can cause compounded discrepancies. For example, the first test will benchmark much lower than the last one, because all the metal within the loop has finally heated up. It can take 45 mins for the brass in the radiators to reach temp.
> Thus, by going back and rerunning the first test again after doing all the tests, it will show you how hot all the rest of the loop, PCB, rads, etc etc have gotten and show you how far off you are in the various tests.
> We have a very controlled system for testing. Even so, we do this kind of test cycling to get accurate results.
> Trying to adjust for ambient temp differences is very hard and won't yield exact results. So if the air is 2c higher in one test, that doesn't necessarily translate to 2c higher for the die temp.
> Also, 2c higher ambient will mean liquid is 2c higher and so is everything else in the system.
> Any test that is less than 2c is within the margin of error, unless it's in a truly controlled environment. That means a temp-controlled room with a temp-regulated coolant system.
> You can test this by just re-pasting the block and running the benchmark over and over, it will yield different results.
> Tests MUST not use variable speed fans or any kind of fan/pump ramping based on temp, then the test is entirely worthless.
> 
> As for this specific test, try using the backplate with our mounting, see what happens, that would be the most interesting result, because we know the springs are hot trash, we -- and many others -- have tested this to death.
> 
> Techpowerup did a full review of our Signature with the different mounting, go check it out. The caveat with the TPU review is he is using a weak DDC pump and barely pushes the CPU at all. So the real-world results for builders here will be much more dramatic the harder the CPU is pushed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimus Signature V2 CPU Block Review
> 
> 
> Alongside the Optimus Foundation CPU block, we saw it fit to also cover the company's flagship Signature CPU block. In its second version, the Signature V2 for Intel CPU sockets features to good effect a thick unibody brass top and mounting bracket, as well as the cooling engine and other...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techpowerup.com


Yeah. Count me in for an sig v2 when i go back to intel.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I just completed my test. To control temperature, I had the AC set to 62F. The temperature was 17.4C to 18.5C throughout the test. I ran Prime95 small FFT AVX off for 45 minutes with each mounting setup. I started monitoring in HWinfo64 30 seconds after starting Prime95. At the end of each 45 minute run, I took a screenshot before stopping Prime95. The CPU maintained 5.3 GHZ on all threads and did not throttle.

Optimus block, EK posts and backplate
Min: 65C
Max: 72C
Avg: 70C

EK block, EK posts and backplate:
Min: 65C
Max: 72C
Avg: 70C

Optimus block, Optimus posts
PC locked up immediately after starting Prime95

The results were identical between the Optimus and EK block when used with the EK posts and backplate. However, when using the Optimus block with the Optimus posts, the test failed immediately. There are a few problems with the no-backplate solution. When tightening the nuts, there is no hard stop. You have to kind of feel it. You have to torque each nut precisely by feel. Without a backplate, the PCB is a load-bearing part of the cooling setup. If you over-torque the nuts and bend the PCB, at best you will have a concave mount and lose performance. At worst you will damage the PCB. Could I have re-torqued the nuts over and over and found the perfect mount? Possibly, but I will not be trying this because I don't want to risk damaging my $600 motherboard. I would also need to loc-tite the nuts in place to make sure they don't back out over time. The EK mounting hardware just works every time. The nuts have a hard stop, the springs ensure equal mounting pressure, and the backplate reduces PCB flex and makes for a flatter contact area.











Optimus block, EK posts and backplate:









EK block, EK posts and backplate.


----------



## Optimus WC

0451 said:


> I just completed my test. To control temperature, I had the AC set to 62F. The temperature was 17.4C to 18.5C throughout the test. I ran Prime95 small FFT AVX off for 45 minutes with each mounting setup. I started monitoring in HWinfo64 30 seconds after starting Prime95. At the end of each 45 minute run, I took a screenshot before stopping Prime95. The CPU maintained 5.3 GHZ on all threads and did not throttle.
> 
> Optimus block, EK posts and backplate
> Min: 65C
> Max: 72C
> Avg: 70C
> 
> EK block, EK posts and backplate:
> Min: 65C
> Max: 72C
> Avg: 70C
> 
> Optimus block, Optimus posts
> PC locked up immediately after starting Prime95
> 
> The results were identical between the Optimus and EK block when used with the EK posts and backplate. However, when using the Optimus block with the Optimus posts, the test failed immediately. There are a few problems with the no-backplate solution. When tightening the nuts, there is no hard stop. You have to kind of feel it. You have to torque each nut precisely by feel. Without a backplate, the PCB is a load-bearing part of the cooling setup. If you over-torque the nuts and bend the PCB, at best you will have a concave mount and lose performance. At worst you will damage the PCB. Could I have re-torqued the nuts over and over and found the perfect mount? Possibly, but I will not be trying this because I don't want to risk damaging my $600 motherboard. I would also need to loc-tite the nuts in place to make sure they don't back out over time. The EK mounting hardware just works every time. The nuts have a hard stop, the springs ensure equal mounting pressure, and the backplate reduces PCB flex and makes for a flatter contact area.
> 
> 
> View attachment 2520371
> 
> 
> Optimus block, EK posts and backplate:
> View attachment 2520369
> 
> 
> EK block, EK posts and backplate.
> View attachment 2520370



Hey there, 

I think there are some issues with the test 

Not sure why you're having issues with the test, but this would be the first out of hundreds of systems to have an issue like that. 

The mounting system isn't new and isn't something untested, it's been proven over and over with world-class systems to be the superior type of mount. After all, we started with springs and a backplate and ditched it in favor of this system.

Also, regarding the test, something is wrong because a test between any two blocks should show a difference. Especially the Signature and the Evo -- no way those two would have identical results. Previous tests by others have shown big number differences.

Couple of points:

We've never had a motherboard damaged with the mounting system. 
There are tons and tons of our blocks in systems out there. The springless mount has much better performance.
This question has been covered over the last year + on OCN with multiple people testing.
The reality of the spring system is it's actually far more difficult to get accurate pressure, the springs and washers make it feel the same but the block is often wonky. 
In fact, a few pages back, people were using Optimus mounting to improve other people's blocks.
You can see an A/B test of both systems here: Optimus Signature V2 CPU Block Review


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there,
> 
> I think there are some issues with the test
> 
> Not sure why you're having issues with the test, but this would be the first out of hundreds of systems to have an issue like that.
> 
> The mounting system isn't new and isn't something untested, it's been proven over and over with world-class systems to be the superior type of mount. After all, we started with springs and a backplate and ditched it in favor of this system.
> 
> Also, regarding the test, something is wrong because a test between any two blocks should show a difference. Especially the Signature and the Evo -- no way those two would have identical results. Previous tests by others have shown big number differences.
> 
> Couple of points:
> 
> We've never had a motherboard damaged with the mounting system.
> There are tons and tons of our blocks in systems out there. The springless mount has much better performance.
> This question has been covered over the last year + on OCN with multiple people testing.
> The reality of the spring system is it's actually far more difficult to get accurate pressure, the springs and washers make it feel the same but the block is often wonky.
> In fact, a few pages back, people were using Optimus mounting to improve other people's blocks.
> You can see an A/B test of both systems here: Optimus Signature V2 CPU Block Review


I'd appreciate any feedback on what is wrong with the test setup. If the basis is "a test between any two blocks should show a difference" then I'll take that as a complement.

It was fairly well controlled:

-Room temperature fluctuated by 1.1C
-Cooling equipment consisted of a 280mm Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTR with 4 x Corsair ML140 PRO running at 100% and an EK D5 pump/res also running at 100%. Radiator was thoroughly cleaned and new tubing was used.
-A fresh application of KPX thermal grease was applied to both blocks.



Optimus WC said:


> You can test this by just re-pasting the block and running the benchmark over and over, it will yield different results.


This tells me all I need to know. Your mounting system is inconsistent for the reasons I highlighted in my last post.

(Pic was taken after I killed the AC)


----------



## Optimus WC

0451 said:


> I'd appreciate any feedback on what is wrong with the test setup. If the basis is "a test between any two blocks should show a difference" then I'll take that as a complement.
> 
> It was fairly well controlled:
> 
> -Room temperature fluctuated by 1.1C
> -Cooling equipment consisted of a 280mm Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTR with 4 x Corsair ML140 PRO running at 100% and an EK D5 pump/res also running at 100%. Radiator was thoroughly cleaned and new tubing was used.
> -A fresh application of KPX thermal grease was applied to both blocks.
> 
> 
> This tells me all I need to know. Your mounting system is inconsistent for the reasons I highlighted in my last post.
> 
> (Pic was taken after I killed the AC)
> View attachment 2520376


🤷‍♂️ Yeah not sure what's off with the test, you should be able to see differences.

Re: doing multiple mounts, that's the case of all blocks -- CPU, GPU, etc etc. That's how to get usable results. Different paste applications will have diff results, unless the weight of the paste is measured and applied in a very specific way. There is a lot that goes into accurate testing and it will show differences in numbers. 

Tons and tons of people have had world's best results with our blocks and this mounting system.


----------



## HyperMatrix




----------



## D-EJ915

0451 said:


> Optimus block, Optimus posts
> PC locked up immediately after starting Prime95


I'm entirely unsurprised by this.


----------



## HyperMatrix

D-EJ915 said:


> I'm entirely unsurprised by this.


And why would that be?


----------



## D-EJ915

HyperMatrix said:


> And why would that be?


No backplate is bad, causes oc and stability issues.


----------



## HyperMatrix

D-EJ915 said:


> No backplate is bad, causes oc and stability issues.


Source please.


----------



## D-EJ915

HyperMatrix said:


> Source please.


Is this a serious question or are you trolling?


----------



## HyperMatrix

D-EJ915 said:


> Is this a serious question or are you trolling?


You’re making a claim. I’m asking for proof.


----------



## D-EJ915

HyperMatrix said:


> You’re making a claim. I’m asking for proof.


Optimus is the one making the bizarre claim here, not me. Even back in 775/1366 not using a backplate had an impact on oc and stability, it's the same thing now. Like I posted a long time ago in this thread I would give it a shot again to see if it worked on my 9900k and 10900ks and just swapping my waterblock or tower heatsink to the optimus caused it to be unstable.

So anyway, my direct experience with it is why I suggested 0451 to try using mounting hardware with a backplate as well since I had issues.


----------



## Section31

D-EJ915 said:


> Optimus is the one making the bizarre claim here, not me. Even back in 775/1366 not using a backplate had an impact on oc and stability, it's the same thing now. Like I posted a long time ago in this thread I would give it a shot again to see if it worked on my 9900k and 10900ks and just swapping my waterblock or tower heatsink to the optimus caused it to be unstable.
> 
> So anyway, my direct experience with it is why I suggested 0451 to try using mounting hardware with a backplate as well since I had issues.


Lets see when alderlake is released and new round of cpu block testing occurs. Its going to be an beast in power usage based on reports.


----------



## D-EJ915

Section31 said:


> Lets see when alderlake is released and new round of cpu block testing occurs. Its going to be an beast in power usage based on reports.


Yeah, at this point it is probably beyond the scope of it mattering for an 115x/1200 backplate to be honest as I don't see Intel continuing two sockets at the same time. I wish they would start using the built-in backplate like on the HEDT and server sockets, it's really convenient and you wouldn't even have to deal with this to begin with.

These are still banger blocks though don't get me wrong, that's why I have two.


----------



## Section31

D-EJ915 said:


> Yeah, at this point it is probably beyond the scope of it mattering for an 115x/1200 backplate to be honest as I don't see Intel continuing two sockets at the same time. I wish they would start using the built-in backplate like on the HEDT and server sockets, it's really convenient and you wouldn't even have to deal with this to begin with.
> 
> These are still banger blocks though don't get me wrong, that's why I have two.


Yup. Maybe there might be improvement optimus makes for lga1700 so will wait till dust settles


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Lets see when alderlake is released and new round of cpu block testing occurs. Its going to be an beast in power usage based on reports.


My cheap old EK waterblock had no problem cooling my sp 110 10700K at 340w and it appears the Optimus Signature is every bit as good, with both the EK and Optimus keeping my 11900K at very nice temperatures at 270w 5.3ghz for 45 minutes. If you are happy with your current block, it should serve you well on Alderlake unless the mounting holes change. The cool thing about the EK block is I can swap out mounting arms if that happens. It even comes with AM4 arms.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> My cheap old EK waterblock had no problem cooling my sp 110 10700K at 340w and it appears the Optimus Signature is every bit as good, with both the EK and Optimus keeping my 11900K at very nice temperatures at 270w 5.3ghz for 45 minutes. If you are happy with your current block, it should serve you well on Alderlake unless the mounting holes change. The cool thing about the EK block is I can swap out mounting arms if that happens. It even comes with AM4 arms.


I ain’t touching ekwb blocks, rads, reservoir again. Too many unlucky cases in the past.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys,

ALDER LAKE: All our blocks will work naturally. You'll see we have oval mounting holes, the new socket sits in between 1200 and HEDT. Also, the IHS is in between the two sizes as well, it's not a new mega IHS like 3647 or TR that would require a full new block style. 

So we won't be making blocks for specific generations -- the blocks need to work for all CPUs -- we'll be doing upgrades of our current blocks at different points. Eventually, we'll do a V3 version of blocks, etc. 

We'll revisit the backplate, but chances are we'll do something different than a piece of plastic or metal. Almost all the plastic or metal backplates for LGA bend with the propper tightening pressure. If the springs don't compress all the way, it's not tight enough. It also somewhat depends on what Intel and AMD do the next time around, AMD is already moving to LGA from PGA, so it'll be interesting to see how they impliment it.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> ALDER LAKE: All our blocks will work naturally. You'll see we have oval mounting holes, the new socket sits in between 1200 and HEDT. Also, the IHS is in between the two sizes as well, it's not a new mega IHS like 3647 or TR that would require a full new block style.
> 
> So we won't be making blocks for specific generations -- the blocks need to work for all CPUs -- we'll be doing upgrades of our current blocks at different points. Eventually, we'll do a V3 version of blocks, etc.
> 
> We'll revisit the backplate, but chances are we'll do something different than a piece of plastic or metal. Almost all the plastic or metal backplates for LGA bend with the propper tightening pressure. If the springs don't compress all the way, it's not tight enough. It also somewhat depends on what Intel and AMD do the next time around, AMD is already moving to LGA from PGA, so it'll be interesting to see how they impliment it.


Not sure what happened but we appreciate you here. I am waiting for alderlake to release and people test before i commit to the platform and new block. Standard precautions.


----------



## RoivonPC

Has anyone mounted the Optimus GPU block to the built in vertical GPU slot for the Phanteks 719? I'm seeing some fairly heavy sag on a mock up test that's only going to get worse. I'd like to use this because it will make my tube runs much easier. 



https://www.overclock.net/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.overclock.net/attachments/3h45fqq-jpeg.2520439/


----------



## dwolvin

You might get away with something like this, I used it on my last setup and it worked well and was cheap.


----------



## RoivonPC

Perhaps if i wasn't using a radiator and fans on the bottom I could use a brace like that.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

I’m using this one with the Enthoo Pro 2 and if you tighten the top 2 screws really tight I haven’t noticed any sag like zero,tho i’m still using a Phanteks glacier g30 waterblock. Waiting on my optimus so idk how much heavier the optimus is compared to the phanteks



Amazon.ca


----------



## RoivonPC

Well I have that bracket and it's a tight fit and messes with my plan for the tubing. Hence why I was trying to use the built in vertical mount instead.


----------



## chibi

Optimus WC said:


> Ah, yes we put a rad in a smaller ultrasonic, not a monster like the one Shawn has. Just get water inside the rad inside the tub, ports facing up, shake out the bubbles then turn the ultrasonic on. It shakes all the crap loose and will stay inside the rad, then just take the rad out and drain it to see the filth. Because of the way the ultrasonic works, it cleans off stuff that would otherwise not come off with just water running through a loop. Or using loop cleaner which really doesnt do much. I imagine if you had a super small ultra you could dip half a rad at a time, it'll work just fine, as long as there is water inside the rad.


When submerging the rad, it's not necessary to seal off the two ports once it's been filled with water correct?


----------



## dwolvin

RoivonPC said:


> Perhaps if i wasn't using a radiator and fans on the bottom I could use a brace like that.


I had the bracket centered on the fan hub- it looked good.


----------



## HyperMatrix

chibi said:


> When submerging the rad, it's not necessary to seal off the two ports once it's been filled with water correct?


The only benefit of sealing it off would be to keep the water on the inside and outside separated. If the radiator is fully filled, and is fully submerged, there will be no benefit or disadvantage to sealing it off other than to keep the liquid inside the rad from contaminating the rest of the water in there. If the ports on your rad are slightly above the water level of the rest of the ultrasonic cleaner, then that would be the same as if you were to seal it off while fully submerged.

So options are:

1) Fully fill and submerge the entire radiator and go to town (which mixes all the liquid together)
2) Fully fill the radiator and close off the ports before fully submerging it, then go to town
3) Fully fill the radiator but place it so the radiator ports are slightly above the water level of your ultrasonic cleaner (while still making sure the water level in your ultrasonic cleaner meets the minimum manufacturer's requirements so you don't damage your machine)


----------



## chibi

HyperMatrix said:


> The only benefit of sealing it off would be to keep the water on the inside and outside separated. If the radiator is fully filled, and is fully submerged, there will be no benefit or disadvantage to sealing it off other than to keep the liquid inside the rad from contaminating the rest of the water in there. If the ports on your rad are slightly above the water level of the rest of the ultrasonic cleaner, then that would be the same as if you were to seal it off while fully submerged.
> 
> So options are:
> 
> 1) Fully fill and submerge the entire radiator and go to town (which mixes all the liquid together)
> 2) Fully fill the radiator and close off the ports before fully submerging it, then go to town
> 3) Fully fill the radiator but place it so the radiator ports are slightly above the water level of your ultrasonic cleaner (while still making sure the water level in your ultrasonic cleaner meets the minimum manufacturer's requirements so you don't damage your machine)


Thanks, one more question if you don't mind. The ultrasonic cleaners I've seen on amazon usually have a basket to hold your items. I read in a previous post, optimus said not to let the rad touch the bottom of the container and don't put your d.... err, hand in it while it's running. 

I assume they were writing in context of no basket. 1) is it safe to put the rad in the tub with the included basket? 2) with regards to optimus note of no touching bottom, do you then use strings or something to hold the rad in place while it's submerged?


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey hey, 

To answer more ultrasonic points:

The basket is perfectly fine
The more items you put in there, the less effective it is
You don't want items to sit or lean on the sides of the tub
Yes, fill the res with water, it needs the water inside to vibrate to clean off the crud
If your res is too big for the tank, just do it in parts, but there needs to be liquid inside
For our regular parts, we have hooks or robots hold the parts in the tank, suspended
But for that, it's only a few seconds to get the outside stuff off, not hard flux and other stuff inside the tank
For the test we did, I checked with the guy who did it and he did use ultrasonic cleaning additive: Brulin 815GD 
Then redo with pure water to get the additives out
This way, the rad will be ultra clean 
I'd also suggest starting to ultrasonic lean things in your house. Old tools? Dip em. It's suuuuuper satisfying to just see the crap fly off the parts, it's really cool technology, you'll be looking for more stuff to ultrasonic clean


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey hey,
> 
> To answer more ultrasonic points:
> 
> The basket is perfectly fine
> The more items you put in there, the less effective it is
> You don't want items to sit or lean on the sides of the tub
> Yes, fill the res with water, it needs the water inside to vibrate to clean off the crud
> If your res is too big for the tank, just do it in parts, but there needs to be liquid inside
> For our regular parts, we have hooks or robots hold the parts in the tank, suspended
> But for that, it's only a few seconds to get the outside stuff off, not hard flux and other stuff inside the tank
> For the test we did, I checked with the guy who did it and he did use ultrasonic cleaning additive: Brulin 815GD
> Then redo with pure water to get the additives out
> This way, the rad will be ultra clean
> I'd also suggest starting to ultrasonic lean things in your house. Old tools? Dip em. It's suuuuuper satisfying to just see the crap fly off the parts, it's really cool technology, you'll be looking for more stuff to ultrasonic clean


Thanks for detailed guy. Might have saved me from spending so much time cleaning the blocks. Almost bought an ultrasonic because of it.


----------



## chibi

Thanks optimus and HyperMatrix, now you've got me chasing the ultrasonic rabbit hole. From my research so far, it looks like the CO-Z 30L is perfect for 360 rads. The CO-Z 30L basket has the following dimensions, which fit even the bigger 360 rads.

L - 17.50" / 44.45 cm
W - 9.75" / 24.77 cm
H - 5.00" / 12.70 cm

It's currently on sale at Amazon for $480 CAD. 🤔🤔🤔

@Optimus WC - some of these machines have a temp setting, is this necessary for rads? Or can we run it cold?


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Thanks optimus and HyperMatrix, now you've got me chasing the ultrasonic rabbit hole. From my research so far, it looks like the CO-Z 30L is perfect for 360 rads. The CO-Z 30L basket has the following dimensions, which fit even the bigger 360 rads.
> 
> L - 17.50" / 44.45 cm
> W - 9.75" / 24.77 cm
> H - 5.00" / 12.70 cm
> 
> It's currently on sale at Amazon for $480 CAD. 🤔🤔🤔
> 
> @Optimus WC - some of these machines have a temp setting, is this necessary for rads? Or can we run it cold?


This whole thread kind of turned out that way too. Enuthiast getting other enuthiast into other rabbit hole related to waterccoling or PC related. Some people that saw our builds, etc and want to do one but don't have income, still in high school, etc; I literally have to warn them you are in getting into a rabbit hole so do it only when you have the means. You can however pick up our previous parts at discount prices (though you got to build relationship in advance if you want the best deals). I even had people asking about the rabbit hole that is mechanical keyboards; I told some of them this is not for you, don't enter as you don't have time to tinker and your not going to see anything tangible from it to make it worth that investment.

My thought is if your going to eventually jump to optimus (or in temporay case watercool) then maybe you don't need to invest in one. After my last experience, when i do new rig, i'm just going new rads to reduce the risks.

I only wish there was site/place we can record all the different parts that trigger us seeing particles, etc sticking on Optimus Products. I don't want to be Guinee pig again to find out bitspower brass tubing oxidization can't be used with Optimus stuff.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> I even had people asking about the rabbit hole that is mechanical keyboards;


I'm pretty much done with the keyboard game. Picked up the Steelseries Apex Pro a couple years ago and haven't looked back. Keycaps are poor quality and should be replaced. But other than that you've got hall sensors for adjustable key-press, as well as a light 36g actuation force on linear keys. Along with individually lit keys and a very nice overall design including USB pass-through....it's been great for both gaming as well as work. Recently bought a second unit for use at the office. Absolutely terrific keyboard.









(not my pic. stolen from IGN)


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I'm pretty much done with the keyboard game. Picked up the Steelseries Apex Pro a couple years ago and haven't looked back. Keycaps are poor quality and should be replaced. But other than that you've got hall sensors for adjustable key-press, as well as a light 36g actual force on linear keys. Along with individually lit keys and a very nice overall design including USB pass-through....it's been great for both gaming as well as work. Recently bought a second unit for use at the office. Absolutely terrific keyboard.
> 
> View attachment 2520495
> 
> (not my pic. stolen from IGN)


Don't blame you lol. I thought i was over (I'm using Topre at work/home) but nope want to go custom. Keycaps are easy to replace - lot of decent cheap options as long as standard layout. You probably know how bad keycaps delays are atm (GMK being very bad atm).


----------



## ilal2ielli

Finally got my system built after sitting on all the parts since early Spring. The last piece was the Strix block... originally ordered a Bykski block with the active backplate, but the timing worked out to where I was willing to wait for Optimus.

Got it ready just in time for Battlefield 2042!


----------



## Optimus WC

ilal2ielli said:


> Finally got my system built after sitting on all the parts since early Spring. The last piece was the Strix block... originally ordered a Bykski block with the active backplate, but the timing worked out to where I was willing to wait for Optimus.
> 
> Got it ready just in time for Battlefield 2042!
> 
> View attachment 2520500


Nice!! How's the performance? And any notes on the restriction on those swivel joint fittings?


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> Don't blame you lol. I thought i was over (I'm using Topre at work/home) but nope want to go custom. Keycaps are easy to replace - lot of decent cheap options as long as standard layout. You probably know how bad keycaps delays are atm (GMK being very bad atm).


Dont get me started on Keyboards... Ive got probably over 10-15 different keyboards now. few are some through hole but got a good selection depending on the mood. =) 

My strix block shipped. Cannot wait for this!


----------



## ilal2ielli

Optimus WC said:


> Nice!! How's the performance? And any notes on the restriction on those swivel joint fittings?


Oh right. I forgot to mention that I bought those fittings. 

The pump is a PWM DDC 3.25 with an Aquacompuer Aqualis reservoir top, the flow is about 160L/H. Never had a flowmeter before this build, so I couldn't say what it would be without those fittings. They seem to be pretty straight through when I eyeballed the opening to the threads, using them definitely made routing my soft tubing a lot easier.

Out of the pump, I've got a Bitspower Q rotary fitting into a Bitspower dual rotary 90* fitting and the rads are older model HWLabs GTX360 and a GTS240, so they're the more restrictive versions than their newer styled ones.

Less flow than I was expecting, but enough to keep my idle water temps at about 3-5* above ambient and if I set the Gentle Typhoons to max 2150 RPM, I'm about 8-9* above ambient under a Time Spy load. The 5900x seems to be averaging 60c under load and the 3090 is about 42c under load with a 120% PL. Haven't tuned the 5900x yet, so its running at whatever stock settings the Dark Hero sets it at (I think its set to 1.4v right now).


----------



## Section31

ilal2ielli said:


> Finally got my system built after sitting on all the parts since early Spring. The last piece was the Strix block... originally ordered a Bykski block with the active backplate, but the timing worked out to where I was willing to wait for Optimus.
> 
> Got it ready just in time for Battlefield 2042!
> 
> View attachment 2520500


How are those granzon fittings. I ordered some of them in to try.


----------



## ilal2ielli

Section31 said:


> How are those granzon fittings. I ordered some of them in to try.


I like them, they seem sturdy enough and don't look any more restrictive than other brand 90* fittings. The rotation is stiff at first, but they loosen up pretty easily and I tested with my EK leak tester before filling and no issues.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Nice!! How's the performance? And any notes on the restriction on those swivel joint fittings?


I also ordered some in to try out but like everything from formulamod long shipping lol. There's lot of interesting design elements that they are trying out. They literally just made an nice copy of the ekwb torques









Barrowch 45 90 Degree Rotary Adapter Fitting, Limited Version for Water Cooling Tube Angled Fitting， FBFTWT 45/90-V2


Buy Barrowch 45 90 Degree Rotary Adapter Fitting, Limited Version for Water Cooling Tube Angled Fitting， FBFTWT 45/90-V2 and FormulaMod, Bykski, GPU Water Block, WaterCooling, etc.




www.formulamod.com


----------



## Section31

ilal2ielli said:


> I like them, they seem sturdy enough and don't look any more restrictive than other brand 90* fittings. The rotation is stiff at first, but they loosen up pretty easily and I tested with my EK leak tester before filling and no issues.


I just ordered some of the other new style fittings they had (ekwb torque clones) and even there splitter fittings look interesting. Though I prefer ekwb torque Rotary T (more useful).

If they are good, i am subbing them for some of my troublesome bitspower fittings.


----------



## ilal2ielli

Section31 said:


> I just ordered some of the other new style fittings they had (ekwb torque clones) and even there splitter fittings look interesting. Though I prefer ekwb torque Rotary T (more useful).
> 
> If they are good, i am subbing them for some of my troublesome bitspower fittings.


I didn't completely plan out the build too much and took a gamble on those Granzon fittings. I may also regret not setting up a drain line...


----------



## dwolvin

Whoa, those are pretty cool looking (both the ball joint fittings and the Barrowch)!


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Whoa, those are pretty cool looking (both the ball joint fittings and the Barrowch)!


I got some coming for friends builds and myself (they are on budget so no optimus fittings). Prices have gone up substantially for those.


----------



## iamjanco

Some KPE 3090 backplate eyecandy...

MP5WORKS block mounted:










After I've waited a couple of days and tightened the screws further, the screw holes will be filled with thermal putty so that they're flush:










Thermal pad between copper backplate and water block:










Last but not least, elbow grease:


----------



## dwolvin

Nice! And here I'm trying to figure out how to get an Inno3d or Asus to keep it as short as possible.


----------



## iamjanco

Thanks!


----------



## Optimus WC

iamjanco said:


> Some KPE 3090 backplate eyecandy...
> 
> MP5WORKS block mounted:
> 
> View attachment 2520620
> 
> 
> After I've waited a couple of days and tightened the screws further, the screw holes will be filled with thermal putty so that they're flush:
> 
> View attachment 2520621
> 
> 
> Thermal pad between copper backplate and water block:
> 
> View attachment 2520622
> 
> 
> Last but not least, elbow grease:
> 
> View attachment 2520623


Haha looks awesome, you'll definitely have some good numbers. And you could go with just thermal paste, though you're prob at the heat limit of what two copper plates will transfer.


----------



## iamjanco

Thanks 

Yeah, I could've gone thermal paste, but it really is only something I put together to hold me over until your active block is ready. We all know that will beat everything else under the sun 

Wait until you see the flow and pressure drop test setup I'm putting together. I've got a Dwyer 490 manometer and a number of King rotameters reserved for that 



















Just have to put together a proper manifold for the 490 and it will be ready.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Haha looks awesome, you'll definitely have some good numbers. And you could go with just thermal paste, though you're prob at the heat limit of what two copper plates will transfer.


Have an question, can i convert an am4 foundation to sig v2 (reuse coldplate) or is it better i buy whole new block.


----------



## Optimus WC

Section31 said:


> Have an question, can i convert an am4 foundation to sig v2 (reuse coldplate) or is it better i buy whole new block.


Yup, cold plate is the same, we can get you a new Sig top, shouldn't be a problem


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, cold plate is the same, we can get you a new Sig top, shouldn't be a problem


Cool Thanks. Now to see how alderlake performs and costs are like.


----------



## Biggu

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, cold plate is the same, we can get you a new Sig top, shouldn't be a problem


I really wish I could use my Sigv2 on the AM4 bracket. I personally like the way it looks.


----------



## iamjanco

As a prototype, it's good enough for government work:










If I were going to mass produce this backplate, I'd make the following adjustments:

I'd shave a bit off the copper by the NVLINK cap upper left screw (right now, that's the only thing that didn't line up perfectly), and;
If going full cover thermal pads, I'd leave out the slots and EVGA logo. 
Otherwise, it should work nicely with the Hydro Copper block until the Optimus Active block arrives. The NVLINK cap is secure, and leaving the one screw out won't hurt anything (except perhaps someone's OCD). It's really not off by much.

*Edit (added):*

Anyway, OCD won out (the NVLINK cap alignment was actually a very easy fix, and was only off by a fraction of a millimeter). That screw is now installed:


----------



## LiquidHaus

iamjanco said:


> As a prototype, it's good enough for government work:
> 
> snip
> 
> Otherwise, it should work nicely with the Hydro Copper block until the Optimus Active block arrives. The NVLINK cap is secure, and leaving the one screw out won't hurt anything (except perhaps someone's OCD). It's really not off by much.


Nice work, my friend! I think that looks great. The timing has changed things for myself. I'm gonna rock my oh so glamorous zip tie'd MP5 BPC until the Optimus block gets here. Temps are actually reasonable with it and it'll hold me off until then. How are your temps going with that new backplate?


----------



## chibi

iamjanco said:


> *Edit (added):*
> 
> Anyway, OCD won out (the NVLINK cap alignment was actually a very easy fix, and was only off by a fraction of a millimeter). That screw is now installed:
> 
> View attachment 2520793


But janco, from your edited pic, it looks like the bottom right screw is not set! That, or the pic is too blurry and my old eyes are playing tricks on me! 🤓
My almost there, but not quite OCD, requests for a third pic.


----------



## acoustic

iamjanco said:


> As a prototype, it's good enough for government work:
> 
> View attachment 2520712
> 
> 
> If I were going to mass produce this backplate, I'd make the following adjustments:
> 
> I'd shave a bit off the copper by the NVLINK cap upper left screw (right now, that's the only thing that didn't line up perfectly), and;
> If going full cover thermal pads, I'd leave out the slots and EVGA logo.
> Otherwise, it should work nicely with the Hydro Copper block until the Optimus Active block arrives. The NVLINK cap is secure, and leaving the one screw out won't hurt anything (except perhaps someone's OCD). It's really not off by much.
> 
> *Edit (added):*
> 
> Anyway, OCD won out (the NVLINK cap alignment was actually a very easy fix, and was only off by a fraction of a millimeter). That screw is now installed:
> 
> View attachment 2520793


Honestly, that looks fantastic. Great work!

How's the performance?


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> Nice work, my friend! I think that looks great. The timing has changed things for myself. I'm gonna rock my oh so glamorous zip tie'd MP5 BPC until the Optimus block gets here. Temps are actually reasonable with it and it'll hold me off until then. How are your temps going with that new backplate?





acoustic said:


> Honestly, that looks fantastic. Great work!
> 
> How's the performance?


Thanks, guys. I've been pretty busy with a number of things associated with my build, but I'm hoping to know within the next couple of weeks how well everything I've been working on recently does performance wise. I will share the data once I've got it.



Spoiler: Somewhat clearer pix



The big picture (overview of what I'm currently working on):









The bench, with the current CPU/MB combo also being moved to water:









The flow/restriction test setup project:










A clearer pic of the KPE backplate:


----------



## Biggu

Got my Strix block installed last night. Gotta say im super impressed with this. With the water block on it now games at a temperature that is lower that it used to idle at. Now it idles around 23-24c and games around 29-30c. Dont mind the fitting doing that Stanky leg impression, I was an idiot when the Hydrocoppers came out and drilled for that never knowing Caselabs would go out of business. I have a new spare mid plate but I have no interest in drilling it. Im planning on making a billet piece that has fitting passthrough and a cable comb built in that I can use in the floor.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Got my Strix block installed last night. Gotta say im super impressed with this. With the water block on it now games at a temperature that is lower that it used to idle at. Now it idles around 23-24c and games around 29-30c. Dont mind the fitting doing that Stanky leg impression, I was an idiot when the Hydrocoppers came out and drilled for that never knowing Caselabs would go out of business. I have a new spare mid plate but I have no interest in drilling it. Im planning on making a billet piece that has fitting passthrough and a cable comb built in that I can use in the floor.


Yeah can’t mod caselabs anymore. I looked into pass through but ended up removing the side chamber fan hole and doing an external run to an pcie bracker g1/4 for that reason.


----------



## Shawnb99

The only parts I’m willing to mod now are ones I can possibly get reproduced somewhere else, IE like the reservoir mounts. Since I had to drill into my dual one I’m going to look at having somewhere make me a new one when I switch to my single mount.


----------



## Optimus WC

Biggu said:


> With the water block on it now games at a temperature that is lower that it used to idle at.


Haha that's awesome!


----------



## Wihglah

iamjanco said:


> Some KPE 3090 backplate eyecandy...
> 
> MP5WORKS block mounted:
> 
> View attachment 2520620
> 
> 
> After I've waited a couple of days and tightened the screws further, the screw holes will be filled with thermal putty so that they're flush:
> 
> View attachment 2520621
> 
> 
> Thermal pad between copper backplate and water block:
> 
> View attachment 2520622
> 
> 
> Last but not least, elbow grease:
> 
> View attachment 2520623


Jufes would be proud.


----------



## acoustic

Biggu said:


> Got my Strix block installed last night. Gotta say im super impressed with this. With the water block on it now games at a temperature that is lower that it used to idle at. Now it idles around 23-24c and games around 29-30c. Dont mind the fitting doing that Stanky leg impression, I was an idiot when the Hydrocoppers came out and drilled for that never knowing Caselabs would go out of business. I have a new spare mid plate but I have no interest in drilling it. Im planning on making a billet piece that has fitting passthrough and a cable comb built in that I can use in the floor.


That is an absolutely beautiful, clean build. Nice! Is that just two rads, or do you have more hiding? More pics pls


----------



## Biggu

acoustic said:


> That is an absolutely beautiful, clean build. Nice! Is that just two rads, or do you have more hiding? More pics pls



Ty! Ill get some more pictures in a bit. There are "just" two radiators. The one that you see up top is a UT60 480mm which is for the CPU loop and the one you cant see in the bottom compartment is a 560mm ut60 for the GPU loop.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Ty! Ill get some more pictures in a bit. There are "just" two radiators. The one that you see up top is a UT60 480mm which is for the CPU loop and the one you cant see in the bottom compartment is a 560mm ut60 for the GPU loop.


More than enough cooling. Makes me want that SMA8A-Revision i didn't buy lol


----------



## detrophy

@Shawnb99 Fireline™ Series II | Competitive Contents Restoration Training Equipment | Contents Restoration Training | Contents Restoration Education | Fireline™
APC4800 is the model number.

Its made and sold by Fireline.
Maybe you can ask them?


----------



## Shawnb99

detrophy said:


> @Shawnb99 Fireline™ Series II | Competitive Contents Restoration Training Equipment | Contents Restoration Training | Contents Restoration Education | Fireline™
> APC4800 is the model number.
> 
> Its made and sold by Fireline.
> Maybe you can ask them?


Yeah I got ahold of them. Unit is unusable with out the power station that costs $9900. So trying to figure out a way to sell it now.


----------



## iamjanco

chibi said:


> But janco, from your edited pic, it looks like the bottom right screw is not set! That, or the pic is too blurry and my old eyes are playing tricks on me! 🤓
> My almost there, but not quite OCD, requests for a third pic.


Here you go (an unmolested image):










Shot with the new CamRanger 2 I purchased a few weeks back, and my Nikon D810/85mm Nikkor lens mounted on a Polaroid MP4. I haven't broken out my studio flash equipment (yet), and while the lighting from the MP4 suffices for now, it's direct and harsh, and it exposes every little nook and cranny in the "polished" copper.

Love the CamRanger 2, btw:


----------



## Section31

Strix Block Testing (using 65% pumps to maintain 1gpm, internal fans at 1600rpm, mo-ra3 at 1200-1300rpm)

Idle:









After Benchmark:


----------



## Dreams-Visions

well look what just showed up.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Dreams-Visions said:


> well look what just showed up.


What was your order # if you don't mind sharing? Wondering where I stand in the queue right now, I was one of the later day 1 orders.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Finally received mine yesterday…




































Night and RGB


----------



## ciarlatano

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Finally received mine yesterday…
> 
> Night and RGB


Really nicely done, love the blackout. One of the most tasteful rigs I've seen here in a long time.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Finally received mine yesterday…
> 
> 
> View attachment 2521273
> View attachment 2521274
> View attachment 2521275
> 
> View attachment 2521276
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Night and RGB
> 
> View attachment 2521280


It will look nice with your planned mdpc-x cables.


----------



## acoustic

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Finally received mine yesterday…
> 
> 
> View attachment 2521273
> View attachment 2521274
> View attachment 2521275
> 
> View attachment 2521276
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Night and RGB
> 
> View attachment 2521280


Please please post what tubing and fittings those are. That's gorgeous!


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Please please post what tubing and fittings those are. That's gorgeous!


Phantek and Ekwb Torque. I think he’s waiting for Optimus 16mm Hard Tube Fittings. Phantek is similar price wise to Optimus Fittings.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

acoustic said:


> Please please post what tubing and fittings those are. That's gorgeous!



Thanks guys!


Tubing is acrylic 16mm you can use any,but this is quite a bit of DIY

I cut the tubes in the pieces I needed,then I took sandpaper GRIT 220 and went a couple of times over the tubes to get that shine out. Afterwards just clean the tubes thoroughly with water,dry them with whatever,tape the ends around 2ish mm so you don't get paint over there. Put on gloves,I used surgical gloves to not finger smudge the tubes,take alcohol and wipe each tube thoroghly to get any rest of dirt,fingerprints etc.. out.
Then I spray painted them and I always use the same spray paint in matte black,even if you look closely the reservoir where the tubes go is spray painted.
Also top rad is the new white Heatkiller I just spray painted that also!

This is the matte black spray paint,by faaaaaaar the best I've ever used and will never go back...also dries super quick in like 30min it's ready to go.



https://www.mastermans.com/itemdetail/KRY-1602




As for the fittings the 90degree are all from Phanteks,rest are EK's Torque with that nickel thing for looks and some are Phanteks fittings because honestly lookswise EK is nice but Phanteks is waaaay tighter and feels much more secure.
If you have the money Phanteks are great,I'm honestly not impressed with EK at all. Compared to the Phanteks fittings EK's feel like toys honestly. The tubes really go in deep and sit extra tight in the 90 degree Phanteks and the 5-6 other phanteks I've used.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Thanks guys!
> 
> 
> Tubing is acrylic 16mm you can use any,but this is quite a bit of DIY
> 
> I cut the tubes in the pieces I needed,then I took sandpaper GRIT 220 and went a couple of times over the tubes to get that shine out. Afterwards just clean the tubes thoroughly with water,dry them with whatever,tape the ends around 2ish mm so you don't get paint over there. Put on gloves,I used surgical gloves to not finger smudge the tubes,take alcohol and wipe each tube thoroghly to get any rest of dirt,fingerprints etc.. out.
> Then I spray painted them and I always use the same spray paint in matte black,even if you look closely the reservoir where the tubes go is spray painted.
> Also top rad is the new white Heatkiller I just spray painted that also!
> 
> This is the matte black spray paint,by faaaaaaar the best I've ever used and will never go back...also dries super quick in like 30min it's ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.mastermans.com/itemdetail/KRY-1602
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the fittings the 90degree are all from Phanteks,rest are EK's Torque with that nickel thing for looks and some are Phanteks fittings because honestly lookswise EK is nice but Phanteks is waaaay tighter and feels much more secure.
> If you have the money Phanteks are great,I'm honestly not impressed with EK at all. Compared to the Phanteks fittings EK's feel like toys honestly. The tubes really go in deep and sit extra tight in the 90 degree Phanteks and the 5-6 other phanteks I've used.


Now I understand why you were frustrated. You had everything ready and were waiting for the GPU block. I agree with @ciarlatano, this is one of the most Tasty PC I have seen in a while.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Thanks guys!
> 
> 
> Tubing is acrylic 16mm you can use any,but this is quite a bit of DIY
> 
> I cut the tubes in the pieces I needed,then I took sandpaper GRIT 220 and went a couple of times over the tubes to get that shine out. Afterwards just clean the tubes thoroughly with water,dry them with whatever,tape the ends around 2ish mm so you don't get paint over there. Put on gloves,I used surgical gloves to not finger smudge the tubes,take alcohol and wipe each tube thoroghly to get any rest of dirt,fingerprints etc.. out.
> Then I spray painted them and I always use the same spray paint in matte black,even if you look closely the reservoir where the tubes go is spray painted.
> Also top rad is the new white Heatkiller I just spray painted that also!
> 
> This is the matte black spray paint,by faaaaaaar the best I've ever used and will never go back...also dries super quick in like 30min it's ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.mastermans.com/itemdetail/KRY-1602
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the fittings the 90degree are all from Phanteks,rest are EK's Torque with that nickel thing for looks and some are Phanteks fittings because honestly lookswise EK is nice but Phanteks is waaaay tighter and feels much more secure.
> If you have the money Phanteks are great,I'm honestly not impressed with EK at all. Compared to the Phanteks fittings EK's feel like toys honestly. The tubes really go in deep and sit extra tight in the 90 degree Phanteks and the 5-6 other phanteks I've used.


The optimus ones will be interesting.


----------



## elbramso

Optimus WC said:


> Haha that's awesome!


Talking about awesome... when do we see the actual numbers of the KPE block in action? Rly can't wait to see what this beast is capable of


----------



## geriatricpollywog

elbramso said:


> Talking about awesome... when do we see the actual numbers of the KPE block in action? Rly can't wait to see what this beast is capable of


Numbers on a waterblock? lol

It contains no silicon


----------



## elbramso

0451 said:


> Numbers on a waterblock? lol
> 
> It contains no silicon


cooling performance? delta?
weight?
dimensions?

no numbers u say....


----------



## geriatricpollywog

elbramso said:


> cooling performance?


It is a nickel plated block of copper. Cooling performance depends on contact to die, radiator capacity, and ambient temperature.


elbramso said:


> delta?


Are you referring to delta T of ambient water to load water temperature or delta T of water to die temperature?



elbramso said:


> weight?
> dimensions?


Who cares.



elbramso said:


> no numbers u say....


L2 Cool


----------



## elbramso

0451 said:


> It is a nickel plated block of copper. Cooling performance depends on contact to die, radiator capacity, and ambient temperature.
> 
> Are you referring to delta T of ambient water to load water temperature or delta T of water to die temperature?
> 
> 
> Who cares.
> 
> 
> L2 Cool


I care about the actual specs of this block. If u don't, that's fine.
Btw. there is no need to be rude.


----------



## acoustic

0451 said:


> It is a nickel plated block of copper. Cooling performance depends on contact to die, radiator capacity, and ambient temperature.
> 
> Are you referring to delta T of ambient water to load water temperature or delta T of water to die temperature?
> 
> 
> Who cares.
> 
> 
> L2 Cool


Someone woke up on the wrong side of the bed today..


----------



## iamjanco

There used to be a few out there who would do extensive, *comparative* block testing that included thermal performance and flow restriction, (VSG at *ThermalBench* and Martin at *MartinsLiquidLab* come to mind; as well as *ExtremeRigs*, which I believe VSG does some testing for these days). All that started slowing down in 2016-2017 though and I think the best you'll get today is what you'll find on YouTube these days (e.g., Igor, GamersNexus, BuildZoid, der8auer, etc).


----------



## LiquidHaus

VSG still does reviews. Martin follows me on IG, maybe I can ask him what happened lol


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> VSG still does reviews. Martin follows me on IG, maybe I can ask him what happened lol


Yeah, I've seen one or two by @VSG here and there done more recently (he still has an OCN acct). Glad he's still at it.

As for Martin, *here's a post by him* written in 2013 that might suggest the why. It's one of the last posts he did for liquidlab. If you are able to get through to him, you might also ask about skinnee (of skinneelabs). @Martinm210


----------



## Section31

New set of cables match optimus so well. Perfect cable management


----------



## dwolvin

Um... What's the fluid?


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Um... What's the fluid?


Mayhem xtr 4nm


----------



## dwolvin

Huh, it photographs weird.


----------



## LiquidHaus

dwolvin said:


> Huh, it photographs weird.


lol that's one way to put it. benefits of Ice Dragon: perfect opaque white.


----------



## HyperMatrix

LiquidHaus said:


> lol that's one way to put it. benefits of Ice Dragon: perfect opaque white.


I used it for a few years. Looked really good. Until it gunked up my tubing and QDCs. Although that could have been mostly due to running PVC tubing. Did you have any problems with Ice Dragon with hard tubing or EPDM?


----------



## fursko

JustinThyme said:


> I understand budgets restrictions as well as sourcing issues. For the Heat Killer gear I have to pay a premium not only for the hardware but the shipping from Germany. It’s good gear though. Unfortunately it’s astoundingly true that you get what you pay for in the world of high power machines. Optimus makes a decent AMD block as does TechN. I don’t think the GTS 360 is killing you on restriction as much as it just doesn’t have much more capability than an AIO. They are great as add ins to supplement a loop in a tight space but not as a stand alone solution. I have one myself. The restriction on that Isn’t nearly restrictive as the GTR 420 I run in the same loop that’s a double pass. Restriction is more about if you have enough pump power to overcome it and keep a decent flow rate. If I had a single D5 I’d be getting my a$$ handed to me with flow restrictions.
> 
> Good luck with your venture!
> 
> And yes the Phanteks blocks are easy on the eyes. If they had a back plate that would make a world of difference. I ran them for a few months waiting for the Heat Killer blocks to be ready to ship. The cards on air were just too hot to run in a closed case. I half to leave the door off or it sucked the hot air that was being dumped in my case through the rad making my loop temps higher than it is with the cards having blocks on them and in the loop. Not to mention heating up everything else inside the case. What happened to the good old days of the GPUs blowing the heat out the back? Here’s a pic of when I was running a pair of the Phanteks blocks. I was surprised by the build quality and fit/finish. Definitely top notch in that department. It’s just the back plate thing that killed them and like I said I found no back plate was better than the stock one that didn’t make any contact with anything other than the mounting posts. They actually held heat in. Don’t know what ASUS was thinking with this design.
> View attachment 2517987


Just to update here. I believe these Phanteks waterblocks have design flaw. First i saw this in amazon.com comments someone claiming all of the blocks have this issue. I can confirm i have it too. The issue is this block leaks from the front nickel plate and screws. I've got a replacement and it did the same. It doesn't look like defect. It's a core design flaw. Thankfuly it didn't kill any of my components. It leaked to my case and psu under the shroud. Cpu blocks are also cracks 100%. I will just stay away from Phanteks watercooling products from now on and strongly recommend to everyone not to touch any of their watercooling products.

Need opinions about Alphacool products. I hope Optimus will improve the worldwide availability, price and variety(compatibility). It's hard to keep quality top level once you go big though.


----------



## D-EJ915

fursko said:


> Just to update here. I believe these Phanteks waterblocks have design flaw. First i saw this in amazon.com comments someone claiming all of the blocks have this issue. I can confirm i have it too. The issue is this block leaks from the front nickel plate and screws. I've got a replacement and it did the same. It doesn't look like defect. It's a core design flaw. Thankfuly it didn't kill any of my components. It leaked to my case and psu under the shroud. Cpu blocks are also cracks 100%. I will just stay away from Phanteks watercooling products from now on and strongly recommend to everyone not to touch any of their watercooling products.
> 
> Need opinions about Alphacool products. I hope Optimus will improve the worldwide availability, price and variety(compatibility). It's hard to keep quality top level once you go big though.


Which block do you have? I've had 0 issues with my 1080 Ti blocks or my 3647 block. My aorus block hasn't leaked but it just had some quick stress testing done with it before I took it apart again.


----------



## fursko

D-EJ915 said:


> Which block do you have? I've had 0 issues with my 1080 Ti blocks or my 3647 block. My aorus block hasn't leaked but it just had some quick stress testing done with it before I took it apart again.


It's the Asus Strix 2080/2080 ti block.


----------



## JustinThyme

fursko said:


> It's the Asus Strix 2080/2080 ti block.


I have two of the Phanteks 2080Ti Blocks I ran for several months. No leaks. Still have them actually. It was the best I could do until the HeatKIller blocks came out. They ran well, just no back plate. I bought them early on directly from Phanteks.


----------



## fursko

JustinThyme said:


> I have two of the Phanteks 2080Ti Blocks I ran for several months. No leaks. Still have them actually. It was the best I could do until the HeatKIller blocks came out. They ran well, just no back plate. I bought them early on directly from Phanteks.
> 
> View attachment 2521506


Vertical mounting might be your secret. I've used vertical mounted couple of months and no leaks. It happened when i use it horizontally (traditional way). Replacement unit leaking as well. Half of the reservoir is gone and psu shroud have dried coolant on it right now. I'm using clear coolant but the leaked coolant look like semen lol. How you guys rate alphacool blocks ?


----------



## JustinThyme

fursko said:


> Vertical mounting might be your secret. I've used vertical mounted couple of months and no leaks. It happened when i use it horizontally (traditional way). Replacement unit leaking as well. Half of the reservoir is gone and psu shroud have dried coolant on it right now. I'm using clear coolant but the leaked coolant look like semen lol. How you guys rate alphacool blocks ?


I had them mounted horizontal at first before I went vertical, Now Im back to horizontal because the freaking frame for vertical mounting blocks all the PCIE slots and I wanted to put two Intel Optane AIC drives in and the in/out ports for the Mora are going through a PCIE slot with hardline inside and quick connects outside. The MORA is all assembled and ready to go, just have to make the rest of the changes to the loop when I get some time off work thats had me hammered for several months. They had us restricted to 32 hours when COVID set in which I actually worked about 10 hours a week but still got the 32 hours pay for two months, april and may of 2020. Had all kinds of time on my hands. Havent seen a week less than 60 since. Im about to take a lot of time off as I carried over 1 week of PATO from last year and have 6 weeks this year that Ive only used one week to go south recently when my youngest graduated from USMC bootcamp. Poor SOB did the crucible in mid July. 100 every day with a heat index of 115. 4 hours of sleep then 54 hours straight with 2 MREs and humping the whole time. They were dropping like flies from the heat. He made it through. I feel sorry for the ones that didnt because they got sent to a medical hold and then will pick up a new platoon when it gets to that stage and have to do it AGAIN!!


----------



## LiquidHaus

HyperMatrix said:


> I used it for a few years. Looked really good. Until it gunked up my tubing and QDCs. Although that could have been mostly due to running PVC tubing. Did you have any problems with Ice Dragon with hard tubing or EPDM?


Whoa it gunked up?! Man that's a tragedy. I've used ID for I believe it's been 8 years now. Not constantly mind you, but over the years there's been many rigs that I've built utilizing it and it's never gunked on me. I would say the only real issue that I've had with it is god forbid if you ever spilled it onto any surface, that surface will have a nice white/blue sheen to it until you completely soak the spilled area.

I've kept in contact with one of the ID guys over the years since they're not focusing on this industry anymore with their formula. Still hard to get a hold of them but it's always worth a shot since they don't sell it anymore.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Mayhem xtr 4nm


I kinda regret buying it now that I saw he's got some new color changing fluid. I want that insead, looks so cool


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I kinda regret buying it now that I saw he's got some new color changing fluid. I want that insead, looks so cool
> 
> View attachment 2521570


How long will it last though. Mayhem Aurora had short lifespan.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> How long will it last though. Mayhem Aurora had short lifespan.


No idea. He made a couple posts showing it off and has been silent since.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> No idea. He made a couple posts showing it off and has been silent since.


Also how long will it take to release. Mayhem XTR 4nm, you can just add regular mayhem dye to make the color better.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mayhem said:


> 1 coolant, Any colour you wish at the flick of a switch (not RGB leds), can even program multi colour ... impossible you say .......
> 
> This is what ill have more time to work on when i have time to dev.
> 
> View attachment 2520546



I'd suspect this will take a while to perfect. Flick of a switch sounds like this something electrical or something

Just with the cost of XTR as it is would of rather waited for this. Oh well. Not like I really have much to show off anyways, my tubing is black


----------



## chibi

Call me old school but I'm happily content with clear di + corrosion/bio inhibitors 
Been through the gamut of dyes with blue, purple, red, green. Then clear di and pastel white. I think ZMT tubing may be in the front run for the next build. Either that, or acrylic + clear.


----------



## Biggu

chibi said:


> Call me old school but I'm happily content with clear di + corrosion/bio inhibitors
> Been through the gamut of dyes with blue, purple, red, green. Then clear di and pastel white. I think ZMT tubing may be in the front run for the next build. Either that, or acrylic + clear.


Yup, Used to change the aesthetics myself then had a pump die on my and shrunk the tube and pissed distilled all over my GPU. Thankfully it was fine but after that I decided Acrylic isn't worth it and now my most recent build is all ZMT.


----------



## chibi

Biggu said:


> Yup, Used to change the aesthetics myself then had a pump die on my and shrunk the tube and pissed distilled all over my GPU. Thankfully it was fine but after that I decided Acrylic isn't worth it and now my most recent build is all ZMT.


Thinking back to my old builds with tubing + compression fittings, my fingers are experiencing phantom pain/numbness... haha!


----------



## HyperMatrix

LiquidHaus said:


> Whoa it gunked up?! Man that's a tragedy. I've used ID for I believe it's been 8 years now. Not constantly mind you, but over the years there's been many rigs that I've built utilizing it and it's never gunked on me. I would say the only real issue that I've had with it is god forbid if you ever spilled it onto any surface, that surface will have a nice white/blue sheen to it until you completely soak the spilled area.
> 
> I've kept in contact with one of the ID guys over the years since they're not focusing on this industry anymore with their formula. Still hard to get a hold of them but it's always worth a shot since they don't sell it anymore.


Probably just due to the PVC leaching then. Had to do many cycles in the ultrasonic to get the QDCs to close again. Figured I'd ask to see if the problem was from the particles in the liquid or standard PVC leaching. Definitely can't beat the dense pure white look though.




chibi said:


> Thinking back to my old builds with tubing + compression fittings, my fingers are experiencing phantom pain/numbness... haha!


Haha. This is why I use only Koolance fittings with a thin wrench. Finger savers.


----------



## dwolvin

Yep, or the Monsoons that had lots of traction on the outer barrel...


----------



## ciarlatano

dwolvin said:


> Yep, or the Monsoons that had lots of traction on the outer barrel...


And also come with a wrench.


----------



## Biggu

Ehh I just use pliers with a strip of rubber so the pliers don't mark up the fittings.


----------



## KCDC

I've found ZMT/EDPM tubing to be more forgiving on the fingers than regular tubing. Even the 10/16 thick wall fits on and off barbs pretty easily without ruining your fingeys.

Also, I remember Someone from Optimus on Reddit saying they'd be carrying unlabeled EDPM tubing cheaper than ZMT, but that had to be like a year ago or more.


----------



## KCDC

Biggu said:


> Ehh I just use pliers with a strip of rubber so the pliers don't mark up the fittings.


Condoms and lock pliers 

Well, Finger Condoms 

Work pretty well if you double em up.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

KCDC said:


> I've found ZMT/EDPM tubing to be more forgiving on the fingers than regular tubing. Even the 10/16 thick wall fits on and off barbs pretty easily without ruining your fingeys.
> 
> Also, I remember Someone from Optimus on Reddit saying they'd be carrying unlabeled EDPM tubing cheaper than ZMT, but that had to be like a year ago or more.


Or you can just buy it from McMaster. This is the tubing I use. It’s unlabeled and works perfectly.









McMaster-Carr


McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




www.mcmaster.com


----------



## le-rooster

I reserved a Strix in November - haven't done any research in the meanwhile - and now they are willing to offer me a TUF.

Optimus, would you make a waterblock for a TUF? I just don't know if it is high end enough for your consideration, looking at the other blocks being made.

Any opinions on the TUF v. Strix? I understand the Strix is more high end and can draw more power.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

le-rooster said:


> I reserved a Strix in November - haven't done any research in the meanwhile - and now they are willing to offer me a TUF.
> 
> Optimus, would you make a waterblock for a TUF? I just don't know if it is high end enough for your consideration, looking at the other blocks being made.
> 
> Any opinions on the TUF v. Strix? I understand the Strix is more high end and can draw more power.


----------



## le-rooster

0451 said:


>


Thanks! I tried searching for the differences but


0451 said:


>


Thanks 🙏- this information from a _professional _is paramount as is your link to the video! I am heavily leaning towards confirming the purchase; two days it will be on hold. Also your classic 3dfx avatar brought back childhood memories.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


>


Optimus tuf they had one in the works but no news in a while. All we know is kingpin then xc3/reference. You might be long ways away.


----------



## le-rooster

Section31 said:


> Optimus tuf they had one in the works but no news in a while. All we know is kingpin then xc3/reference. You might be long ways away.



Ah - knew about the KP but wasn't aware of the XC3 and reference. I am thinking the TUF would be a filler card for the time being. From all accounts it is reliable, at least.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Optimus tuf they had one in the works but no news in a while. All we know is kingpin then xc3/reference. You might be long ways away.


A Strix block might fit. The PCBs are nearly the same between the Strix and Tuf.


----------



## le-rooster

0451 said:


> A Strix block might fit. The PCBs are nearly the same between the Strix and Tuf.


Upon seeing your post, this was my first thought as I incorrectly read the title of the video. Did notice some differences so will have to confirm with Optimus or see if other people have retrofitted them in. Then again retailers and manufacturers have different blocks for each model. 
Imagine the block could be modified to fit and pictures of butchering the block to fit


----------



## JustinThyme

While what products of theirs I have gotten are decent and perform in the top tier with others (no better and no worse, top tier) The day when they can be bought by going on a website and ordering then getting it in a reasonable amount of time Ill order it. I did get the Sig V2 and Sig V2 blem flat from them directly. The Sig V2 was in the beginning when they were still begging for customers. The blem flat they promised the block top with no cold plate then reneged and I bought it with a scratched up copper cold plate and its was the worst performer of them all. I bough the Foundation from PPCs because I wanted to shut someone up that was also testing saying it was better, it wasn't and it cost me next to nothing from PPCs points. In the end what works best for my CPU and fits the IHS without having to lap the cold plate of the block and the IHS (like the other tester did to get decent performance out of the foundation) isn't an Optimus at all. If anyone is interested in either of the 3 i mentioned hit me up and Ill sell them to you as I have them in stock, slightly used for testing purposes only and will give you a discount. I have the intel versions only. They are collecting dust or holding down papers. I cant speak for the GPU blocks as the next gen will be out soon enough, at least by the time I do a new build, and it will be starting all over again. In the meantime the HeatKiller blocks I have with an 8C delta will do just fine. My guess is wherever they are now is the end, maybe one more card. I look at the trend and the first was the FTW3 and they just now started shipping the second. I'll look again when the 40xx is released which should coincide with the saphire rapids. Thats my new build time line.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> While what products of theirs I have gotten are decent and perform in the top tier with others (no better and no worse, top tier) The day when they can be bought by going on a website and ordering then getting it in a reasonable amount of time Ill order it. I did get the Sig V2 and Sig V2 blem flat from them directly. The Sig V2 was in the beginning when they were still begging for customers. The blem flat they promised the block top with no cold plate then reneged and I bought it with a scratched up copper cold plate and its was the worst performer of them all. I bough the Foundation from PPCs because I wanted to shut someone up that was also testing saying it was better, it wasn't. In the end what works best for my CPU and fits the IHS without having to lap the cold plate of the block and the IHS (like the other tester did to get decent performance out of the foundation) isn't an Optimus at all. If anyone is interested in either of the 3 i mentioned hit me up and Ill sell them to you as I have them in stock, slightly used for testing purposes only and will give you a discount. I have the intel versions only. They are collecting dust or holding down papers. I cant speak for the GPU blocks as the next gen will be out soon enough, at least by the time I do a new build, and it will be starting all over again. My guess is wherever they are now is the end, maybe one more card. I look at the trend and the first was the FTW3 and they just now started shipping the second. I'll look again when the 40xx is released which should coincide with the saphire rapids. Thats my new build time line.


Next gen gpu is late 2022/early 2023. Paper launch too so we are 1.5years away from release. Our timeline are similar though. 

Sapphire Rapid looks nice but its another stop gap. Its LunarLake/NovaLake HEDT/Server (Pat Gelsinger Project) is what you should be targeting.


----------



## le-rooster

Section31 said:


> Next gen is late 2022/early 2023. Paper launch too so we are 1.5years away from release.


It’s not what you know; it’s who you know. I wonder what it’s like on the inside 😂😂. This definitely influences my decisions


----------



## Section31

le-rooster said:


> It’s not what you know; it’s who you know. I wonder what it’s like on the inside 😂😂. This definitely influences my decisions


I just read the rumors. We are due for refresh thats all. I would wait out for strix honestly (not much price difference) then gamble on optimus block.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Next gen gpu is late 2022/early 2023. Paper launch too so we are 1.5years away from release. Our timeline are similar though.
> 
> Sapphire Rapid looks nice but its another stop gap. Its LunarLake/NovaLake HEDT/Server (Pat Gelsinger Project) is what you should be targeting.


We will see who has what whn that time rolls around late 2022 early 2023. For now Im good. All my results put mye int he top 99% with several top ten spots, hard to argue that. Ive never see it so bad in my PC building history which is pretty much back to the beginning with a 386 and I was the big kid on the block with a 40MB HDD. When I upgraded that to a 500MB it was $500 for that drive.Now a 10GB spinner can be had for $200 or so.

Ill be waiting for some common sense to come back into the picture. Might be intel or maybe AMD. I make that decision when the time comes. Bottom line is its going to be a completely new build save some watercooling parts and probably PSU and case. No more upgrades to be had on anything.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> We will see who has what whn that time rolls around late 2022 early 2023. For now Im good. All my results put mye int he top 99% with several top ten spots, hard to argue that. Ive never see it so bad in my PC building history which is pretty much back to the beginning with a 386 and I was the big kid on the block with a 40MB HDD. When I upgraded that to a 500MB it was $500 for that drive.Now a 10GB spinner can be had for $200 or so.
> 
> Ill be waiting for some common sense to come back into the picture. Might be intel or maybe AMD. I make that decision when the time comes. Bottom line is its going to be a completely new build save some watercooling parts and probably PSU and case. No more upgrades to be had on anything.


I agree. I just finished watching moores law is dead. Intel is crazy and jim keller work not finished. Apparently it’s lunarlake/novalake that going to be massive. No wonder Pat Gelsinger got Glenn Hinton back for that project.

Hence why my v3000+ is long term project. I am leaning towards giving alderlake an shot my myself.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I agree. I just finished watching moores law is dead. Intel is crazy and jim keller work not finished. Apparently it’s lunarlake/novalake that going to be massive
> 
> Hence why my v3000+ is long term project. I am leaning towards giving alderlake an shot my myself.


I hear ya. Just got the 10980XE and pair of 2080Tis running the way I like them. Changing platforms on a build that I didnt finish very long ago just make my wallet cry. Not that its empty, Im just a tightwad. the sapphire rapids with up to 120 cores looks good on paper. When you figure my last compete new build was coming from a 7700K with a pair of 1080Tis LOL All new everything except some watercooling gear that will make it for at least another build if not more. The fittings is what runs you in the poor house but if you get good ones in the first place they last a long time. Bitpower seems to work well for me and on the 3rd build. Ive even got a pile of extras. Only thing Ive used otherwise is the koolance quick connects. They have come a long way I remember the last builf I did witrh Koolance fittings I ended up cutting them out because they were not about to unscrew I even tried getting them loose in a vise after and just snapped them like a twig. All corroded up.

I really do hope Optimus gets it in gear and gets in the game.


----------



## LiquidHaus

0451 said:


> Or you can just buy it from McMaster. This is the tubing I use. It’s unlabeled and works perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.mcmaster.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2521739


Yes! I use the same EPDM tubing myself as well. Excellent stuff. Doesn't need to be rinsed either. ZMT spits out black specs like crazy during the first use.

Also, seeing all those radiators sitting like that? You need an EXT!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> Yes! I use the same EPDM tubing myself as well. Excellent stuff. Doesn't need to be rinsed either. ZMT spits out black specs like crazy during the first use.
> 
> Also, seeing all those radiators sitting like that? You need an EXT!


I keep telling myself I’ll stuff everything back into my case but I rather like having everything on the table. It reminds me of physics lab in college.

I might just get a Mora and sell my rads.


----------



## JustinThyme

0451 said:


> I keep telling myself I’ll stuff everything back into my case but I rather like having everything on the table. It reminds me of physics lab in college.
> 
> I might just get a Mora and sell my rads.


External works better no matter how you slice it so long as your ambient temps aren’t stupid high. You get fresh air in with no restrictions and it’s awesome in the winter when you can set the rad/s in an open window pulling in cold air. Economy chiller!


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> External works better no matter how you slice it so long as your ambient temps aren’t stupid high. You get fresh air in with no restrictions and it’s awesome in the winter when you can set the rad/s in an open window pulling in cold air. Economy chiller!


External only works if you have the space for it. Even with a smaller case I couldn't fit a Mo-Ra in my room.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

JustinThyme said:


> External works better no matter how you slice it so long as your ambient temps aren’t stupid high. You get fresh air in with no restrictions and it’s awesome in the winter when you can set the rad/s in an open window pulling in cold air. Economy chiller!


I just ordered a stainless steel MO-RA 3 420. I should have gone external a long time ago. I can now downsize to a smaller case with no radiators. My desk is next to a balcony door. I can put the radiator outside if I want to. Plus, 1 radiator will be much easier to clean than the 2x280, 2x140 and 1x360 I have now, so I won’t have to worry about dust. I can just disconnect the rad, take it outside and pressure wash it. I might have less flow restriction too with fewer rads and tubing runs.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Shawnb99 said:


> External only works if you have the space for it. Even with a smaller case I couldn't fit a Mo-Ra in my room.


They have wall mounts for it or you could build a shelf on the wall.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> I just ordered a stainless steel MO-RA 3 420. I should have gone external a long time ago. I can now downsize to a smaller case with no radiators. My desk is next to a balcony door. I can put the radiator outside if I want to. Plus, 1 radiator will be much easier to clean than the 2x280, 2x140 and 1x360 I have now, so I won’t have to worry about dust. I can just disconnect the rad, take it outside and pressure wash it. I might have less flow restriction too with fewer rads and tubing runs.


That's liquidhaus sff builds lol. They look amazing.


----------



## USNcole

Does anyone know how much you are supposed to tighten the acrylic on a FTW3 water block? I am getting bubbles above the channels. Is that normal?


----------



## Keith Myers

That's just the leftover entrained air in the loop. Perfectly normal and will work itself out into the reservoir eventually.


----------



## USNcole

Keith Myers said:


> That's just the leftover entrained air in the loop. Perfectly normal and will work itself out into the reservoir eventually.


Thank you


----------



## JustinThyme

0451 said:


> They have wall mounts for it or you could build a shelf on the wall.


They have wall mounts but that leaves you with fans on one side. I have a 16x20 office with a lot of room and have a MOR3 420 just waiting to redo to plumbing inside the case. I’m not yanking all the internal rads but two of 4 are going. Leaving a GTS360 in the front and a GTR420 in the basement and pulling two EK rads. A 480XE and 360SE. The 420 is moving down from up top and will. Be isolated from the rest of the case. The 360 is upfront exhausting and will have 3 more 360 fans up top dumping fresh air onto my VRM heat sink and RAM and a 140 from the rear. The MORA is set up for 9x140 2000 rpm Noctua i industrial fans punishing and 4X 200MM Noctua fans pulling. If that doesn’t give me the results I want I’m yanking all the rads in and out, running another 20 amp circuit up snd buying the koolance 1600W chiller. Not for sub ambient because I hate dealing with condensation but to keep the liquid at room ambient temp which stays 23-24c in the summer and 20-21c in the winter. I think the Mora will take care of it though.

but yeah you look at the MORA3 420 and it has 9 rows too to bottom with 4 deep so 32 passes. Every tube is another pass. It’s not one pass from one side to the other. Every tube has a 180 fitting going on to the next for another pass with 33 sqft of fins.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah I thought about wall mounting it but I'm also limited on that as well. Got my 55" CX taking up one wall, another wall has a window and pictures on both sides, another has a 65" tv and a picture, leaving a wall with a closet on the same side and over my bed so not suitable for any kind of setup.

I got more than enough interior radiator space to need one anyway.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

JustinThyme said:


> They have wall mounts but that leaves you with fans on one side. I have a 16x20 office with a lot of room and have a MOR3 420 just waiting to redo to plumbing inside the case. I’m not yanking all the internal rads but two of 4 are going. Leaving a GTS360 in the front and a GTR420 in the basement and pulling two EK rads. A 480XE and 360SE. The 420 is moving down from up top and will. Be isolated from the rest of the case. The 360 is upfront exhausting and will have 3 more 360 fans up top dumping fresh air onto my VRM heat sink and RAM and a 140 from the rear. The MORA is set up for 9x140 2000 rpm Noctua i industrial fans punishing and 4X 200MM Noctua fans pulling. If that doesn’t give me the results I want I’m yanking all the rads in and out, running another 20 amp circuit up snd buying the koolance 1600W chiller. Not for sub ambient because I hate dealing with condensation but to keep the liquid at room ambient temp which stays 23-24c in the summer and 20-21c in the winter. I think the Mora will take care of it though.
> 
> but yeah you look at the MORA3 420 and it has 9 rows too to bottom with 4 deep so 32 passes. Every tube is another pass. It’s not one pass from one side to the other. Every tube has a 180 fitting going on to the next for another pass with 33 sqft of fins.
> View attachment 2521854
> 
> 
> View attachment 2521855


Wow, that’s a lot of cooling. How many pumps are you using? I feel like I would need 3 D5s if I used any of my current radiators in the same loop as the Mora.

Also, how do you power and control the pumps and fans?


----------



## Shawnb99

I need my 4 working D5's to be at 70% to get 1GPM. Turning on my other two lets me drop it down to 25% each.
That's without the GPU in the loop


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Shawnb99 said:


> I need my 4 working D5's to be at 70% to get 1GPM. Turning on my other two lets me drop it down to 25% each.
> That's without the GPU in the loop


How many radiators is that with, 7?

I think temperature uniformity wouldn’t matter in a loop with 1 heat-producing device, but the extra water pressure would help with blasting water into the narrow coldplate fins of a CPU block.


----------



## Shawnb99

0451 said:


> How many radiators is that with, 7?
> 
> I think temperature uniformity wouldn’t matter in a loop with 1 heat-producing device, but the extra water pressure would help with blasting water into the narrow coldplate fins of a CPU block.


Yeah 7. Also have 90 degree connectors off each inlet/outlet of my pumps so that's also limiting me


----------



## D-EJ915

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah 7. Also have 90 degree connectors off each inlet/outlet of my pumps so that's also limiting me


Oh yeah 90 on out is definitely the cardinal sin of 90 degree fittings lmao.


----------



## JustinThyme

0451 said:


> Wow, that’s a lot of cooling. How many pumps are you using? I feel like I would need 3 D5s if I used any of my current radiators in the same loop as the Mora.
> 
> Also, how do you power and control the pumps and fans?





Shawnb99 said:


> I need my 4 working D5's to be at 70% to get 1GPM. Turning on my other two lets me drop it down to 25% each.
> That's without the GPU in the loop





0451 said:


> Wow, that’s a lot of cooling. How many pumps are you using? I feel like I would need 3 D5s if I used any of my current radiators in the same loop as the Mora.
> 
> Also, how do you power and control the pumps and fans?


I run 3 D5s without thr MORA and had another two on a aerial head mounted to the Mora that will make a total of 5. Power to the pumps are some SATA connectors and other molex. They are all PWM controlled by aquacomputer devices. Started with an aquaero 6Pro (pulled the display so it’s really an XT now) and added an OCTO snd Quadro. Once you go aqauacomputer you won’t go back.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

JustinThyme said:


> I run 3 D5s without thr MORA and had another two on a aerial head mounted to the Mora that will make a total of 5. Power to the pumps are some SATA connectors and other molex. They are all PWM controlled by aquacomputer devices. Started with an aquaero 6Pro (pulled the display so it’s really an XT now) and added an OCTO snd Quadro. Once you go aqauacomputer you won’t go back.


How do you run the power cables to your power supply? I am trying to think about how to run the wires cleanly.


----------



## KCDC

0451 said:


> Or you can just buy it from McMaster. This is the tubing I use. It’s unlabeled and works perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.mcmaster.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2521739


Well alright, thanks!


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> How do you run the power cables to your power supply? I am trying to think about how to run the wires cleanly.


Look at MX1 (forgot name) on heatkiller forum. He made an custom single cable that ran into his computer. It even has Next Flow Sensor Intergrated into it.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I run 3 D5s without thr MORA and had another two on a aerial head mounted to the Mora that will make a total of 5. Power to the pumps are some SATA connectors and other molex. They are all PWM controlled by aquacomputer devices. Started with an aquaero 6Pro (pulled the display so it’s really an XT now) and added an OCTO snd Quadro. Once you go aqauacomputer you won’t go back.


You and Shawnb99 with the crazy Mo-Ra3 setup. You guys inspire us to go crazy setup. I seem to be getting more and more crazy setup too.


----------



## Section31

D-EJ915 said:


> Oh yeah 90 on out is definitely the cardinal sin of 90 degree fittings lmao.


I use the most 90 degree of everyone including fittings runs so i beat most of you in that regards.


----------



## iamjanco

Additional progress and some notes (caveats) about the backplate:










So I changed my mind midstream and decided to use the dual MORA3 setup to cool the bench. I set aside the three white radiators I have mounted to a CASELABS SMA8 pedestal for now, as things were just getting too awkward, given my workspace:










Anyway, about that backplate... While it looks nice, my design is flawed because I should have shifted the MP4 further to the rear of the backplate such that the cooling ports on both items were aligned vertically. Had I gone with the bungee cord approach to securing the block to the backplate, the problem wouldn't exist as I would have been able to accomplish that easily. Hard-mounting the block prevents that though and also prevents using the card in the first slot of the motherboard because of the location of the ram sticks.

Thought about bending some hard tubing and going that route, but doing so wouldn't really resolve the placement issues and figured why bother now.

...consider it a durr moment, one of my better ones. But hey, the backplate was my first backplate, a prototype afterall (when in doubt, rationalize), and will do until the Optimum PC active block arrives. At least I was fortunate enough that I had the parts on hand to rig a connection between the backplate and the block.

Next up: prep for leak testing and adjustments if needed. I'll use the dual pump setup that's mounted to the lower left of the bench frame to do that, then finish the two loops.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

iamjanco said:


> Additional progress and some notes (caveats) about the backplate:
> 
> View attachment 2521863
> 
> 
> So I changed my mind midstream and decided to use the dual MORA3 setup to cool the bench. I set aside the three white radiators I have mounted to a CASELABS SMA8 pedestal for now, as things were just getting too awkward, given my workspace:
> 
> View attachment 2521865
> 
> 
> Anyway, about that backplate... While it looks nice, my design is flawed because I should have shifted the MP4 further to the rear of the backplate such that the cooling ports on both items were aligned vertically. Had I gone with the bungee cord approach to securing the block to the backplate, the problem wouldn't exist as I would have been able to accomplish that easily. Hard-mounting the block prevents that though and also prevents using the card in the first slot of the motherboard because of the location of the ram sticks.
> 
> Thought about bending some hard tubing and going that route, but doing so wouldn't really resolve the placement issues and figured why bother now.
> 
> ...consider it a durr moment, one of my better ones. But hey, the backplate was my first backplate, a prototype afterall (when in doubt, rationalize), and will do until the Optimum PC active block arrives. At least I was fortunate enough that I had the parts on hand to rig a connection between the backplate and the block.
> 
> Next up: prep for leak testing and adjustments if needed. I'll use the dual pump setup that's mounted to the lower left of the bench frame to do that, then finish the two loops.
> 
> View attachment 2521866
> View attachment 2521868


This was the inspiration for the physics lab in the Unigine Superposition benchmark.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> I use the most 90 degree of everyone including fittings runs so i beat most of you in that regards.


I think I have over 20x 90 degree fittings in my loop. If you have more than me, you're crazy.


----------



## tmorgan444

Anyone have experience removing an Optimus 3080/3090 FTW3 or Strix waterblock with the massive FujiPoly gap pad on the backplate? I installed mine a few weeks ago and unfortunately need to remove the Optimus blocks from a few 3090 FTW3s.

If so: 

Does the backplate gap pad come off cleanly or am I going to be spending days cleaning stuck gap pad off every single component?
Are the backplate gap pads reusable? If not, any idea how much replacements cost from Optimus? I know how expensive FujiPoly pads are in small sizes so I'm afraid to even ask what the full size pad costs!
Any tips would be sincerely appreciated. I'm sincerely dreading this!


----------



## iamjanco

0451 said:


> This was the inspiration for the physics lab in the Unigine Superposition benchmark.


Probably more the other way around (that benchmark being some of what inspired me). But if you enjoyed those, you might like this one as well:


----------



## Section31

tmorgan444 said:


> Anyone have experience removing an Optimus 3080/3090 FTW3 or Strix waterblock with the massive FujiPoly gap pad on the backplate? I installed mine a few weeks ago and unfortunately need to remove the Optimus blocks from a few 3090 FTW3s.
> 
> If so:
> 
> Does the backplate gap pad come off cleanly or am I going to be spending days cleaning stuck gap pad off every single component?
> Are the backplate gap pads reusable? If not, any idea how much replacements cost from Optimus? I know how expensive FujiPoly pads are in small sizes so I'm afraid to even ask what the full size pad costs!
> Any tips would be sincerely appreciated. I'm sincerely dreading this!


1. The backplate fujipoly comes off easily. Remember to unscrew every screw
2. You can reuse it, it’s durable. You can’t find the backside fujipoly unfortunately


----------



## LiquidHaus

at this point it's just simply time for the kpe block


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> at this point it's just simply time for the kpe block


Next gen GPU im going for the signature gpu block also (get right gpu)


----------



## geriatricpollywog

iamjanco said:


> Probably more the other way around (that benchmark being some of what inspired me). But if you enjoyed those, you might like this one as well:
> 
> View attachment 2521923


I do like thre aesthetic, lighting and photography. I couldn’t do it because I’d spend too much time dusting.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> I do like thre aesthetic, lighting and photography. I couldn’t do it because I’d spend too much time dusting.


I like the phantek t30-120. I hope they come with 140mm version


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> I like the phantek t30-120. I hope they come with 140mm version
> 
> View attachment 2521935


I like how you can use short screws to attach the fans. I don't like the structural webbing. When comrade dust pays a visit, that is where he likes to stay. It's easy enough to clean out with a Q-tip on my ML140 fans, but the new Phaenteks have some DEEP webbing.










This gives me anxiety. Whoever did this has never cleaned a fan before:


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> I like how you can use short screws to attach the fans. I don't like the structural webbing. When comrade dust pays a visit, that is where he likes to stay. It's easy enough to clean out with a Q-tip on my ML140 fans, but the new Phaenteks have some DEEP webbing.
> 
> View attachment 2521937
> 
> 
> This gives me anxiety. Whoever did this has never cleaned a fan before:
> View attachment 2521938


No screws lol. They are sitting on the rads for testing before i implement such fans


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

0451 said:


> I like how you can use short screws to attach the fans. I don't like the structural webbing. When comrade dust pays a visit, that is where he likes to stay. It's easy enough to clean out with a Q-tip on my ML140 fans, but the new Phaenteks have some DEEP webbing.
> 
> 
> 
> This gives me anxiety. Whoever did this has never cleaned a fan before:



Our comrade @Section31 sells his old fans and from that money buys new ones! Who cleans his old fans nowadays when you can have every couple of months new ones 🙂


----------



## dwolvin

But yeah, I'm also hoping for t30-140's


----------



## Lobstar

Hey guys, installed this at the end of April. About to tear this apart for cleaning but would love some thoughts on the gunk around the seal and in the inlet area. Fluid is 10% Nuke XT-1 and distilled water.


----------



## Section31

Its from one of your components. Its cleanable, lot of scrubbing.


----------



## Lobstar

Section31 said:


> Its from one of your components. Its cleanable, lot of scrubbing.


Nah, it's very rubbery. I use epdm tubing so this is a mystery. It came off with zero effort in one chunk. It seems to be growing from the gasket out in the previous picture.


----------



## Lobstar

Some pads contact the block and some don't. Is that expected or another change on the Rev1.0 board?
I also have this oily substance at three places. Guessing it's just the pad on the back?


----------



## Shawnb99

Lobstar said:


> Some pads contact the block and some don't. Is that expected or another change on the Rev1.0 board?
> I also have this oily substance at three places. Guessing it's just the pad on the back?
> View attachment 2521967
> View attachment 2521968
> View attachment 2521969



Yeah that's just oil from the pads. 

As for the stuff you found in your loop I have no clue *** that would be from. Lucky that didn't cause a complete blockage.


----------



## dwolvin

Seconded, that's weird looking and would almost seem to be a growth of some type...


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

I just built my pc and like you used pure distilled water and Mayhem’s XT-1,hope my Strix block doesn’t get that. I’ve never seen anything coming close to what you took out there…


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I just built my pc and like you used pure distilled water and Mayhem’s XT-1,hope my Strix block doesn’t get that. I’ve never seen anything coming close to what you took out there…


It's complete random. It likely is other component. Consider that i have run it with pure distilled and i still got gunk/copper oxidation. Since you cleaned out your watercool radiators, etc I don't see it happening.


----------



## acoustic

That seems like a lot of oil. I'd try cleaning that up with some Isoprop Alcohol. Looking at the pads .. I dunno, that just doesn't look very good. You have an entire row that looks like it never made contact with the block at all.

As for the growth - was it black on the other side?


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> You and Shawnb99 with the crazy Mo-Ra3 setup. You guys inspire us to go crazy setup. I seem to be getting more and more crazy setup too.


Yeah crazy is all you got if you want to push it. 

Yeah 90s add restrictions but if that impairs you then all I have to say about that is you don’t have enough a$$ in the pump department to overcome it.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah crazy is all you got if you want to push it.
> 
> Yeah 90s add restrictions but if that impairs you then all I have to say about that is you don’t have enough a$$ in the pump department to overcome it.


I am going 2 internal and 2 on mo-ra3 for next build


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I am going 2 internal and 2 on mo-ra3 for next build


When I finish this monstrosity Ill have 5 pumps total. Already have 3 internal and two more will be on MORA. If its too much well thats why they are all PWM pumps. I can tone it down. I just decided after installing 4x200mm fans as pull with the other side being 9X 140mm push to just put 4 more 200MM fans on the Mora so I only have 8 fans to control instead of 13. Just ordered those up and already have another adapter plate. All Noctua fans. That will leave a GTR420 with Noctua 3000rpm industrial fans push pull in the basement and a 360 up front with Corsair QL fans pushing out along with two more 140s in the basement helping to exhaust the 420 out of the case as the basement will be closed off and another 140 up top in the rear as well as 3 more corsair QL 360s up top blowing on my VRM heatsink and memory and a 480 and 360 going to the shelf in the basement. When work slows or I just take time off I've got to finish this project up. I think the MORA is going to call for more a$$ in the pump department as I cant even blow though it. I know it will pump as I ran one D5 on it while flushing it out.


----------



## Lobstar

acoustic said:


> That seems like a lot of oil. I'd try cleaning that up with some Isoprop Alcohol. Looking at the pads .. I dunno, that just doesn't look very good. You have an entire row that looks like it never made contact with the block at all.
> 
> As for the growth - was it black on the other side?


I'll be stripping it to get it off there. I ordered replacement pads too. It was black flecked. Maybe from my zygon tubing.




JustinThyme said:


> When I finish this monstrosity Ill have 5 pumps total. Already have 3 internal and two more will be on MORA. If its too much well thats why they are all PWM pumps. I can tone it down. I just decided after installing 4x200mm fans as pull with the other side being 9X 140mm push to just put 4 more 200MM fans on the Mora so I only have 8 fans to control instead of 13. Just ordered those up and already have another adapter plate. All Noctua fans. That will leave a GTR420 with Noctua 3000rpm industrial fans push pull in the basement and a 360 up front with Corsair QL fans pushing out along with two more 140s in the basement helping to exhaust the 420 out of the case as the basement will be closed off and another 140 up top in the rear as well as 3 more corsair QL 360s up top blowing on my VRM heatsink and memory and a 480 and 360 going to the shelf in the basement. When work slows or I just take time off I've got to finish this project up. I think the MORA is going to call for more a$$ in the pump department as I cant even blow though it. I know it will pump as I ran one D5 on it while flushing it out.


I run 4x200 noctuas on my mora 3 at 100% and they are essentially silent sitting in my office with the other background noise. You can use a cheap external power supply to run all four and reduce complexity if you have a long run.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> I'll be stripping it to get it off there. I ordered replacement pads too. It was black flecked. Maybe from my zygon tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> I run 4x200 noctuas on my mora 3 at 100% and they are essentially silent sitting in my office with the other background noise. You can use a cheap external power supply to run all four and reduce complexity if you have a long run.


I think he is running it on 2nd psu. Bunch of us are using 2nd psu for mo-ra3


----------



## Lobstar

Section31 said:


> I think he is running it on 2nd psu. Bunch of us are using 2nd psu for mo-ra3


Ah, I use these for pumps: Amazon.com: 100-240V AC to 12V DC Power Supply with 4 Pin Molex (5A / 5000mA) : Electronics
And these for fans: Amazon.com: CRJ DC Power Supply for 2 x 3/4-Pin 12V Computer PC Case Fans : Electronics


----------



## chibi

Optimus fam, what's the go-to 3080 Ti between FTW3 and Strix OC?

The Strix is priced at $2,480 here with no stock, and I have the chance to get a FTW3 for $1,940. Also, does it matter if it's hash limited or not? I don't mine, but am concerned for resale value. How do you tell if hash limited or not? Thanks


----------



## anr11

Overall, the Strix is probably the better card, but not 540 bucks better. I'm fairly certain all Ti's are hash rate limited. But if you see LHR anywhere in the product name or description, then it definitely is.


----------



## Lobstar

Any tips on removing the full pad backplate?


----------



## dwolvin

Go slow, have a spudger or something to help peel it.


----------



## chibi

anr11 said:


> Overall, the Strix is probably the better card, but not 540 bucks better. I'm fairly certain all Ti's are hash rate limited. But if you see LHR anywhere in the product name or description, then it definitely is.


Yea that Strix 3080 Ti pricing really had me  The whole point of Ti model was for the discount compared to 3090. I checked the comparable 3090 models and FTW3 $2,470 with Strix being $2,530. Really hard decision on getting the Ti or 90, but it doesn't help that neither 90 has availability so pricing is kind of a wash.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

chibi said:


> Optimus fam, what's the go-to 3080 Ti between FTW3 and Strix OC?
> 
> The Strix is priced at $2,480 here with no stock, and I have the chance to get a FTW3 for $1,940. Also, does it matter if it's hash limited or not? I don't mine, but am concerned for resale value. How do you tell if hash limited or not? Thanks


The strix is the better card if you're going to put a block on it. If you can't get one then get the ftw3. Having a card>no card

All 3080tis are lhr and yes it hurts resale. They still do a decent job of mining ****coins, look into ERGO.

I'd rather buy a 3090 at those prices. No hashrate limiter and has nvlink. Will have better resale.


----------



## asdf893

Lobstar said:


> Hey guys, installed this at the end of April. About to tear this apart for cleaning but would love some thoughts on the gunk around the seal and in the inlet area. Fluid is 10% Nuke XT-1 and distilled water.
> View attachment 2521946


lmao ***


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Yea that Strix 3080 Ti pricing really had me  The whole point of Ti model was for the discount compared to 3090. I checked the comparable 3090 models and FTW3 $2,470 with Strix being $2,530. Really hard decision on getting the Ti or 90, but it doesn't help that neither 90 has availability so pricing is kind of a wash.


Target the FTW3 or Xc/Reference for 3080TI. Strix is overprice. These will have optimus blocks. Only advantage of ftw3 is blemish optimus blocks at 270usd


----------



## asdf893

Section31 said:


> Target the FTW3 or Xc/Reference for 3080TI. Strix is overprice. These will have optimus blocks. Only advantage of ftw3 is blemish optimus blocks at 270usd


they're really selling blemish blocks for $270? What do you think is a fair price for my used copper ftw3 block?


----------



## chibi

Edge0fsanity said:


> The strix is the better card if you're going to put a block on it. If you can't get one then get the ftw3. Having a card>no card
> 
> All 3080tis are lhr and yes it hurts resale. They still do a decent job of mining ****coins, look into ERGO.
> 
> I'd rather buy a 3090 at those prices. No hashrate limiter and has nvlink. Will have better resale.


Will most likely be going with Optimus block. You're right in the Ti price vs 3090, it isn't worth it for the Strix. Only thing is there's no stock for the 3090 anywhere.



Section31 said:


> Target the FTW3 or Xc/Reference for 3080TI. Strix is overprice. These will have optimus blocks. Only advantage of ftw3 is blemish optimus blocks at 270usd


For sure, Strix Ti is way over priced. If it was ~$100 no brainer imo.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Will most likely be going with Optimus block. You're right in the Ti price vs 3090, it isn't worth it for the Strix. Only thing is there's no stock for the 3090 anywhere.
> 
> 
> 
> For sure, Strix Ti is way over priced. If it was ~$100 no brainer imo.


I would honestly target the 3080/3080ti FTW3 and just get it and get the blemish 270usd block. At this point, next gen GPU are coming in 2023 so don't invest too much.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I would honestly target the 3080/3080ti FTW3 and just get it and get the blemish 270usd block. At this point, next gen GPU are coming in 2023 so don't invest too much.


That’s about when I’ll be looking. Next gen CPUs and sapphire lake or whatever looks the best at that point. Nothing to upgrade, entirely new build. I’ll reuse the case and everything watercooled related except it will require new blocks. Until then there just nothing in interested in ATM. If I was going 30XX it would be a pair of the Strix 3090s but $5K+ is just stupid. Right now is the worst time to upgrade anything ever. All the MOBOs, CPUs are at end of life and the GPU market is out of control. Lots of “Open box” sales on Fleabay which really translates into another category of “I’ve been mining 24x7 with this card but mining is now banned in China so I have to sell it”. I’m actually seeing some used cards going for MSRP and the rest even if they had a price I could swallow they aren’t authorized retailers so no warranty. I see them steadily getting relisted because they got zero bids. Then there are the fools listing them for $5K for one freaking card!!


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> That’s about when I’ll be looking. Next gen CPUs and sapphire lake or whatever looks the best at that point. Nothing to upgrade, entirely new build. I’ll reuse the case and everything watercooled related except it will require new blocks. Until then there just nothing in interested in ATM. If I was going 30XX it would be a pair of the Strix 3090s but $5K+ is just stupid. Right now is the worst time to upgrade anything ever. All the MOBOs, CPUs are at end of life and the GPU market is out of control. Lots of “Open box” sales on Fleabay which really translates into another category of “I’ve been mining 24x7 with this card but mining is now banned in China so I have to sell it”. I’m actually seeing some used cards going for MSRP and the rest even if they had a price I could swallow they aren’t authorized retailers so no warranty. I see them steadily getting relisted because they got zero bids. Then there are the fools listing them for $5K for one freaking card!!


Sapphirelake looks really good for hedt. I don't think i will ever go back to Intel HEDT and will stick on consumer line version of it. The only logical reason to upgrade is if the upgrade costs are marginal, which is what i have just secured for Alderlake change. Assuming i do so, its Alderlake with cheap ddr5 then jump to MeteorLake and better DDR5 then to one of LunarLake/Novalake (intel ringbus successor)


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Sapphirelake looks really good for hedt. I don't think i will ever go back to Intel HEDT and will stick on consumer line version of it. The only logical reason to upgrade is if the upgrade costs are marginal, which is what i have just secured for Alderlake change. Assuming i do so, its Alderlake with cheap ddr5 then jump to MeteorLake and better DDR5 then to one of LunarLake/Novalake (intel ringbus successor)


I’m not even sure where I’ll land just yet. I’m not even considering it until 40XX GPUs come to be and a decent HEDT. I’ll make my decision then. May even go to AMD. All depends on whose doing what when the time comes. Gotta admit 120 cores does sound intriguing. Lord knows what will be what 2 years down the road.


----------



## Section31

I must get the 140mm version. Perfect Cable Management


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2522218
> 
> View attachment 2522219
> 
> 
> I must get the 140mm version. Perfect Cable Management


I actually changed my mind on the MORA and just going with 8X200mm Noctua fans push pull. That way they can all fit on one splitty and one channel on a quadro that will be just for the MORA. 1 channel for fans and two for the pumps. Leaving one open. The more I looked at 9x 140 MM fans on one side the more I didn’t like all the cables. I’ve already made up a 12V molex extension and a long USB Type A to the header type needed. I pondered the use of a separate PSU but I’ll see how my 1600W handles it all. If I need to I can use an external PSU and one of the relay contacts from my aquaero to turn it on. I don’t think it will be necessary though. Less than 50 watts added. Including pumps and fans. Loading up what I have already to max powa puts me in the 1400W range. All the crap I’ve got connected now I idle around 300 watts.


----------



## chibi

Got the last 3080 Ti FTW3 tonight. My cart has a nickel FTW3 block and a Copper one... what do. 🤔


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Got the last 3080 Ti FTW3 tonight. My cart has a nickel FTW3 block and a Copper one... what do. 🤔


Copper lol. Its cheaper.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Sapphirelake looks really good for hedt. I don't think i will ever go back to Intel HEDT and will stick on consumer line version of it. The only logical reason to upgrade is if the upgrade costs are marginal, which is what i have just secured for Alderlake change. Assuming i do so, its Alderlake with cheap ddr5 then jump to MeteorLake and better DDR5 then to one of LunarLake/Novalake (intel ringbus successor)


I dunno, the HEDT platform seems better for longevity than any other platform. I'm on the opposite end of the fence, where I'd like to hop off the crap consumer platforms with it's limiting PCIE lanes. You spend all this money on the chip and board and then get gimped garbage for PCIE lanes and motherboard support. X299 seen three different chips .. pretty efficient in terms of cost if you bought a quality board for your 79xx chip.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I dunno, the HEDT platform seems better for longevity than any other platform. I'm on the opposite end of the fence, where I'd like to hop off the crap consumer platforms with it's limiting PCIE lanes. You spend all this money on the chip and board and then get gimped garbage for PCIE lanes and motherboard support. X299 seen three different chips .. pretty efficient in terms of cost if you bought a quality board for your 79xx chip.


It seems lot better with z690. I also don’t use more than one gpu etc so i don’t need the pcie channels.

X299 was good but not sure i would invest as much as i did into it again. Two 7900x, one 7920x, one x299 prime, 2 x299 apex, 3 blocks (one ekwb mono block, one swiftech heirloom skf le, final block wad one watercool black nickel cpu iv)


----------



## acoustic

Well.. when you buy a bunch of ****, you kinda killed the value of the platform yourself lol


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Well.. when you buy a bunch of ****, you kinda killed the value of the platform yourself lol


Yup. Most were human error and impatience on my end. Learning Experience.

Had i only paid attention to Jayz2cents then i guarantee i would have ordered the sma8a revision not the caselabs s8. That and i honestly would have gotten watercool Mo-Ra3 much earlier too. 

I tinker a lot for an watercooler/hardware enuthiast. Lose money on temp fixes. Though I wouldn’t have jumped onto Optimus so fast if i wasn’t following them after hardocp review on the v1.


----------



## iamjanco

An update (getting closer to flow):

Changes I made since my last post in this thread:

I took the AquaComputer Flow 400 flowmeters out from where I had them mounted near the dual pump setups connected to the two MORAs as they were just too close to the pumps. I might add them back in at a later date, but I'm really not too worried at this time because I'll take flow readings using the King Rotameters;

I removed the drain setups I had between the same pumps and the QD connections to the test bench. I really don't need them now;

I hooked up the CPU and GPU loops; added temp sensors before and after the GPU/block combo; and one sensor to the outlet port on the CPU block.



Spoiler: images

































Got six D5s if I need them (three pairs of serially connected pumps); two of those three currently in the MORA loops.


----------



## HyperMatrix

chibi said:


> Got the last 3080 Ti FTW3 tonight. My cart has a nickel FTW3 block and a Copper one... what do. 🤔





Section31 said:


> Copper lol. Its cheaper.


Unless the cold plate on the copper block is Nickel...I wouldn't choose copper. Because that means either no liquid metal use, which makes a huge difference in temperatures, or you'll have to dismantle, sand down, and re-apply your liquid metal several times as it amalgamates with the copper block, including creation of little bumps that make future mounts worse, unless as I mentioned...you sand it down enough.

Copper is never worth it if you plan to use liquid metal. And if you don't use liquid metal, you should rethink your cooling priorities.


----------



## chibi

HyperMatrix said:


> Unless the cold plate on the copper block is Nickel...I wouldn't choose copper. Because that means either no liquid metal use, which makes a huge difference in temperatures, or you'll have to dismantle, sand down, and re-apply your liquid metal several times as it amalgamates with the copper block, including creation of little bumps that make future mounts worse, unless as I mentioned...you sand it down enough.
> 
> Copper is never worth it if you plan to use liquid metal. And if you don't use liquid metal, you should rethink your cooling priorities.


I've done liquid metal on bare die, 8700k and Titan Xp in the paste. While the performance was great for the first 1.5 years, my conductonaut dried out and it was a pia to clean and re-apply. The 8700k was super easy to delid so I took that as a learning experience. Now with soldered CPUs, it's not worth the hassle to me to gain the extra 10~15 degrees when I'm not a heavy overclocker/bench mark chaser anymore.

I just do it to run fans on low while keeping below average temps compared to running straight air cooler. In short, I'm not chasing the 0.01 percentile and am a lazy old fart now compared to me teen years.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

just got my shipment notification for FTW3. Originally estimated sept 13th. F’ing PUMPED.


----------



## chibi

Anyone have some spare Opt compression fittings for sale in black? New condition preferred


----------



## Section31

delete


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Anyone have some spare Opt compression fittings for sale in black? New condition preferred


Contact Shawnb99. Look at blemish fittings, great deal at 7.50usd. Shawnb99 has the matte black fittings i think


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> Contact Shawnb99. Look at blemish fittings, great deal at 7.50usd. Shawnb99 has the matte black fittings i think


I just bought out all their blemish fittings, need some more lol.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Contact Shawnb99. Look at blemish fittings, great deal at 7.50usd. Shawnb99 has the matte black fittings i think


I'm not sure about spares. Would have to wait till after my latest teardown. I got 14mm hardlines though
I prefer the matte black, it looks better. Hard to tell the difference unless close up


----------



## chibi

Shawnb99 said:


> I'm not sure about spares. Would have to wait till after my latest teardown. I got 14mm hardlines though
> I prefer the matte black, it looks better. Hard to tell the difference unless close up


Thanks buddy, I'm going for soft tubing ZMT this round. Would need the Flex compression and not the hardlines.


----------



## Shawnb99

chibi said:


> Thanks buddy, I'm going for soft tubing ZMT this round. Would need the Flex compression and not the hardlines.


Grab some Tygon A-60-G. It's light years better then ZMT. My last batch of that stuff was so filthy it stained the silicon of my D5 Next just by making my hands dirty.


----------



## chibi

Shawnb99 said:


> Grab some Tygon A-60-G. It's light years better then ZMT. My last batch of that stuff was so filthy it stained the silicon of my D5 Next just by making my hands dirty.


Any local/Canada supplier for this?


----------



## Shawnb99

chibi said:


> Any local/Canada supplier for this?


Sadly no. Just US plastic is the only place I know to get it from.
Ask for a quote first and you might find cheaper shipping.


----------



## chibi

Shawnb99 said:


> Sadly no. Just US plastic is the only place I know to get it from.
> Ask for a quote first and you might find cheaper shipping.


Yikes, $56 USD for 20' of tubing. Just received their shipping quote for another $35 - $45 minimum. $100 for 20' of tubing is a bit much imo. I'll have to spend a few days trying to source this elsewhere, or settle for ZMT.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Yikes, $56 USD for 20' of tubing. Just received their shipping quote for another $35 - $45 minimum. $100 for 20' of tubing is a bit much imo. I'll have to spend a few days trying to source this elsewhere, or settle for ZMT.


Remember to post your build. We need to one day have an Optimus Water Cooling gathering with our rigs lol (when its all safe etc). There seem to be many local Optimus user here lol.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Yikes, $56 USD for 20' of tubing. Just received their shipping quote for another $35 - $45 minimum. $100 for 20' of tubing is a bit much imo. I'll have to spend a few days trying to source this elsewhere, or settle for ZMT.


Try canadian distributor? Cole-Parmer may have it but they are expensive


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> Remember to post your build. We need to one day have an Optimus Water Cooling gathering with our rigs lol (when its all safe etc). There seem to be many local Optimus user here lol.


Here's some past performance if that's anything to go by. I call the test bench, _le tank _as the drain valves look like turrents and fans are the tractor wheels haha.



Spoiler: Pics


----------



## HyperMatrix

chibi said:


> Now with soldered CPUs, it's not worth the hassle to me to gain the extra 10~15 degrees when I'm not a heavy overclocker/bench mark chaser anymore.


You were asking about a GPU block. Not CPU. Cleaning and re-applying LM on a GPU die with nickel cold plate takes less than 5 minutes. It also shouldn't dry out and lead to a noticeable drop in performance after just 1.5 years when used from direct GPU die to nickel cold plate unless you were trying to remove the staining which doesn't affect cooling performance. The PS5 comes with liquid metal TIM. They wouldn't use it if it meant consoles were going to need service in a year and a half. A proper LM application should last several years without any maintenance, which covers the entire period of time most of us here stick with the same GPU anyway.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Optimus Water Cooling gathering with our rigs


Now that’s what you call a niche within a niche.


----------



## chibi

HyperMatrix said:


> You were asking about a GPU block. Not CPU. Cleaning and re-applying LM on a GPU die with nickel cold plate takes less than 5 minutes. It also shouldn't dry out and lead to a noticeable drop in performance after just 1.5 years when used from direct GPU die to nickel cold plate unless you were trying to remove the staining which doesn't affect cooling performance. The PS5 comes with liquid metal TIM. They wouldn't use it if it meant consoles were going to need service in a year and a half. A proper LM application should last several years without any maintenance, which covers the entire period of time most of us here stick with the same GPU anyway.


I was writing about liquid metal in general. Yes, my cpu application did dry out at the 18 month mark. I noticed a big temp increase and flushed the loop for maintenance. When I removed the cpu block, it looked crusty. This was with a nickel cold plate (HKIV block) as well. Maybe I received a bad batch of conductonaut, or I applied too little lm, who knows but I'm not about to try again.


----------



## acoustic

KPx for the GPU > liquid metal. I love that stuff.


----------



## HyperMatrix

chibi said:


> I was writing about liquid metal in general. Yes, my cpu application did dry out at the 18 month mark. I noticed a big temp increase and flushed the loop for maintenance. When I removed the cpu block, it looked crusty. This was with a nickel cold plate (HKIV block) as well. Maybe I received a bad batch of conductonaut, or I applied too little lm, who knows but I'm not about to try again.


Usually a result of low LM application. Also with CPU it's a difference case where it's nickel to nickel as opposed to direct die, and at much higher temperatures and temperature variance causing contraction/expansion. GPUs for example stay below 40C while CPUs can hit 70-80C. Don't give up on LM. It makes a huge difference on GPUs since it's direct die and it's such a large surface area. During some benching with my 3090 Kingpin with the Hybrid cooler (and 3x 21W Delta fans. ), I was doing port royal runs at 2145MHz and hitting 51C after the 2 minute run was over. Just switching to liquid metal let me do the exact same run at 2190MHz and hitting only 42C at the end of the run. If you're happy enough with standard paste though, you should just get the copper block. Technically better performance. And cheaper.


----------



## Lobstar

asdf893 said:


> lmao ***


What does this even mean?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

chibi said:


> Yikes, $56 USD for 20' of tubing. Just received their shipping quote for another $35 - $45 minimum. $100 for 20' of tubing is a bit much imo. I'll have to spend a few days trying to source this elsewhere, or settle for ZMT.


This. It’s clean, has no markings, doesn’t collapse, is super flexible and fits perfectly on my Optimus fittings. It’s also dirt cheap and widely available. EPDM is the same material used for car radiator hoses and has more than enough temperature and chemical resistance for a computer.










McMaster-Carr


McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




www.mcmaster.com


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> Remember to post your build. We need to one day have an Optimus Water Cooling gathering with our rigs lol (when its all safe etc). There seem to be many local Optimus user here lol.


Probably going to be Canadians only with yalls healthcare.... Moving those rigs around surly is a disaster waiting on some ones back.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Probably going to be Canadians only with yalls healthcare.... Moving those rigs around surly is a disaster waiting on some ones back.


Its promote watercooling lol and buy more Optimus mainly


----------



## chibi

0451 said:


> This. It’s clean, has no markings, doesn’t collapse, is super flexible and fits perfectly on my Optimus fittings. It’s also dirt cheap and widely available. EPDM is the same material used for car radiator hoses and has more than enough temperature and chemical resistance for a computer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.mcmaster.com


Just talked to MCC, they don't ship to Canada 

Can you confirm the MCC tubing has a bit of a shine to it? Doesn't look as matte as the Tygon A-60-G. Checking out the Heatkiller EPDM, it's also a bit shiny.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

chibi said:


> Just talked to MCC, they don't ship to Canada
> 
> Can you confirm the MCC tubing has a bit of a shine to it? Doesn't look as matte as the Tygon A-60-G. Checking out the Heatkiller EPDM, it's also a bit shiny.


MCC= McMaster Carr? Try Grainger or another industrial supplier for soft EPDM tubing. Somebody will have it, or Canada wouldn’t be an industrial powerhouse for maple syrup and petroleum products, including EPDM tubing.

It’s as shiny as it looks in the picture.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Just talked to MCC, they don't ship to Canada
> 
> Can you confirm the MCC tubing has a bit of a shine to it? Doesn't look as matte as the Tygon A-60-G. Checking out the Heatkiller EPDM, it's also a bit shiny.


Was going to say that. If you buy 500euro free shipping


----------



## chibi

0451 said:


> MCC= McMaster Carr? Try Grainger or another industrial supplier for soft EPDM tubing.


Yes, I meant to type MMC, typo 
Grainger CA is no go, they want $52 for 10' of tubing with Oct availability lol. Supply constraints everywhere.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Yes, I meant to type MMC, typo
> Grainger CA is no go, they want $52 for 10' of tubing with Oct availability lol. Supply constraints everywhere.


Just to chim on ZMT, i will tell you the Optimus lid won't close flush with it, I have no such issue with Mayhem Clear


----------



## acoustic

chibi said:


> Just talked to MCC, they don't ship to Canada
> 
> Can you confirm the MCC tubing has a bit of a shine to it? Doesn't look as matte as the Tygon A-60-G. Checking out the Heatkiller EPDM, it's also a bit shiny.


Heatkiller EPDM doesn't seem shiny to me. I have it in my system currently.


----------



## chibi

acoustic said:


> Heatkiller EPDM doesn't seem shiny to me. I have it in my system currently.


Would you be able to snap a pic and post the Heatkiller EPDM please? Thank you!

The pics on their web store has a bit of a sheen, curious what real world condition represents.





HEATKILLER® EPDM Tubing 16/10 (ID3/8") schwarz, 16,95 €


Der HEATKILLER® EPDM Tubing Schlauch wurde für die härtesten Einsatzbedingen von Watercool selektiert. Durch seine spezielle Optik passt er auch gut in Mods




shop.watercool.de


----------



## acoustic

chibi said:


> Would you be able to snap a pic and post the Heatkiller EPDM please? Thank you!
> 
> The pics on their web store has a bit of a sheen, curious what real world condition represents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HEATKILLER® EPDM Tubing 16/10 (ID3/8") schwarz, 16,95 €
> 
> 
> Der HEATKILLER® EPDM Tubing Schlauch wurde für die härtesten Einsatzbedingen von Watercool selektiert. Durch seine spezielle Optik passt er auch gut in Mods
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de


I'm currently not at home (on a work trip right now) but I might be able to post one when I get home in a few days.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

chibi said:


> Just talked to MCC, they don't ship to Canada
> 
> Can you confirm the MCC tubing has a bit of a shine to it? Doesn't look as matte as the Tygon A-60-G. Checking out the Heatkiller EPDM, it's also a bit shiny.


where in Canada are you located exactly?

I go with Shippsy,they give me a Niagara Falls USA address,I ship to their warehouse there,once it arrives I have to upload invoice,after 2-3h they approve it and next day for $7cad they deliver it from Niagara Falls (usa) to the GTA and I can go pick it up. I did like 15ish orders and saved a **** ton of time (shipping),cost for deliver etc etc…great service plus usa has like billions more options then canada


Here on amazon a nasal spray I use for my allergy is $65cad for 1x120 pumps. Deliver 17th September.
USA Amazon gives you 3x144 pumps for $65cad and delivers to the Niagara Falls warehouse in 2-3 days. So you do the math now how much time and expenses I’ve saved!


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> where in Canada are you located exactly?
> 
> I go with Shippsy,they give me a Niagara Falls USA address,I ship to their warehouse there,once it arrives I have to upload invoice,after 2-3h they approve it and next day for $7cad they deliver it from Niagara Falls (usa) to the GTA and I can go pick it up. I did like 15ish orders and saved a **** ton of time (shipping),cost for deliver etc etc…great service plus usa has like billions more options then canada
> 
> 
> Here on amazon a nasal spray I use for my allergy is $65cad for 1x120 pumps. Deliver 17th September.
> USA Amazon gives you 3x144 pumps for $65cad and delivers to the Niagara Falls warehouse in 2-3 days. So you do the math now how much time and expenses I’ve saved!


Chibi is same region as shawnb99 so west coast of the country.


----------



## elbramso

I ordered the KPE block on July 29th - ETA 5-6 weeks. 
Three weeks ago Optimus teased us that performance numbers will be coming soon... when? I need them now


----------



## Biggu

elbramso said:


> I ordered the KPE block on July 29th - ETA 5-6 weeks.
> Three weeks ago Optimus teased us that performance numbers will be coming soon... when? I need them now


Optimus is not known for being on time when it come to ETA, It will happen just on a different time line than you think but it will be worth it.


----------



## Section31

The Granzon Fittings are interesting. Can’t replace the 90degree rotary for straight 90degree runs but is very good fitting to have nonetheless


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus missing for 13 days. Better be working on my KPE block. Haha. I hope they launch before the 3090 Super comes out.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Optimus missing for 13 days. Better be working on my KPE block. Haha. I hope they launch before the 3090 Super comes out.


They must be working on something special. Total silence


----------



## JustinThyme

HyperMatrix said:


> Optimus missing for 13 days. Better be working on my KPE block. Haha. I hope they launch before the 3090 Super comes out.


Not at all uncommon. That's the one thing that is a downfall for them is communication although in a rather rude PM I was told they have expanded, have like 10 state of the art CNC machines and have deployed robotics as well as a CS staff. Not so sure I'm confident with the content of that message. When it comes to delays its always the plating as its outsourced to China like everyone else.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Not at all uncommon. That's the one thing that is a downfall for them is communication although in a rather rude PM I was told they have expanded, have like 10 state of the art CNC machines and have deployed robotics as well as a CS staff. Not so sure I'm confident with the content of that message. When it comes to delays its always the plating as its outsourced to China like everyone else.


I wish you start up an watercooling company and start coming out with products. You would be very successful i feel


----------



## HyperMatrix

JustinThyme said:


> When it comes to delays its always the plating as its outsourced to China like everyone else.


I highly doubt they're sending their Made In USA blocks to china for plating, and then all the way back. Especially with the cost of freight during covid. Price of sending a 40' container from china was roughly 2.5x higher than pre-covid, when I checked a few months back. If you have anything to back up that claim, I would be shocked but I'd be more than happy to see it.


----------



## iamjanco

When in doubt, blame outsourcing. Then punt...


----------



## chibi

Which angled fittings match the Optimus matt/satin blacks best?


----------



## anr11

chibi said:


> Which angled fittings match the Optimus matt/satin blacks best?


Can't say for sure as all I can go by are the pics online of both fittings but probably BP carbon black.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Which angled fittings match the Optimus matt/satin blacks best?


Ekwb Torque Black or Phantek imo. You can also try those granzon ball fittings in black. They serve an real purpose imo. Also look at these

Barrowch 45 / 90 Degree Rotary Adapter With Smooth Surface For Bend Tube Connections Design 2pcs, FBWT-MR (great deal) use yanwen took 2weeks to arrive 









Barrowch 45 90 Degree Rotary Adapter Fitting, Limited Version for Water Cooling Tube Angled Fitting， FBFTWT 45/90-V2


Buy Barrowch 45 90 Degree Rotary Adapter Fitting, Limited Version for Water Cooling Tube Angled Fitting， FBFTWT 45/90-V2 and FormulaMod, Bykski, GPU Water Block, WaterCooling, etc.




www.formulamod.com













Granzon 360° Multi-angle With Free Joint Fitting, Brass Adaptor G1/4" Rotary Connector, Revolvable Adjustable For Water Cooling GD-X


Buy Granzon 360° Multi-angle With Free Joint Fitting, Brass Adaptor G1/4" Rotary Connector, Revolvable Adjustable For Water Cooling GD-X and FormulaMod, Bykski, GPU Water Block, WaterCooling, etc.




www.formulamod.com


----------



## lostsupper

I PM'd some of you who've posted pictures of your Strix blocks. Can anyone share the installation instructions for their Strix block? Mine arrived without any instructions and I really want to get this put together.

I don't see a link to installation instructions anywhere on their site and they're not responding to emails.


----------



## Section31

lostsupper said:


> Can anyone share the installation instructions for their Strix block? Mine arrived without any instructions and I really want to get this put together.


Look back about one month ago. Optimus posted it


----------



## lostsupper

Section31 said:


> Look back about one month ago. Optimus posted it


Thank you!


----------



## Biggu

lostsupper said:


> I PM'd some of you who've posted pictures of your Strix blocks. Can anyone share the installation instructions for their Strix block? Mine arrived without any instructions and I really want to get this put together.
> 
> I don't see a link to installation instructions anywhere on their site and they're not responding to emails.


Its also on their sales page 








Absolute GPU Block - ASUS Strix 3080/Ti/3090


ASUS STRIX 3080, 3080Ti, 3090 GPU WATERBLOCK The Absolute block is our all-out performance design, created to achieve maximum cooling on all areas of the NVIDIA RTX 3080, 3080 Ti and 3090 Strix GPUs from ASUS. The Strix GPUs pull huge amounts of power and require top cooling on all areas -- die...




optimuspc.com







https://i.shgcdn.com/06207de6-c4d3-4fcf-be77-f0a929e949fc/-/format/auto/-/preview/3000x3000/-/quality/lighter/




https://i.shgcdn.com/fbd3cbe4-4ff8-4635-9774-945b746621a1/-/format/auto/-/preview/3000x3000/-/quality/lighter/


----------



## teamrushpntball

Does anyone have any pictures of builds with Optimus fittings and 12 or 14mm hard tubing? Trying to gauge how the fittings look with smaller tubing seeing as the fittings are a fair bit larger diameter than most.


----------



## Section31

teamrushpntball said:


> Does anyone have any pictures of builds with Optimus fittings and 12 or 14mm hard tubing? Trying to gauge how the fittings look with smaller tubing seeing as the fittings are a fair bit larger diameter than most.


Look at mine. I posted them quite recently too.


----------



## tps3443

I managed to get really good temps on my Kingpin Hydro Copper block, so I am gonna pass on the Optimus KP block. Though I was extremely tempted to buy one many times. It’s the wait that kills me Lol. 


Anyways, I’m gonna just ride out on my KP HC block. It takes some time to get it right, but the KP HC 3090 block is actually pretty good.

But, just know good temps are possible for anyone interested in knowing.


----------



## LiquidHaus

tps3443 said:


> I managed to get really good temps on my Kingpin Hydro Copper block, so I am gonna pass on the Optimus KP block. Though I was extremely tempted to buy one many times. It’s the wait that kills me Lol.
> 
> 
> Anyways, I’m gonna just ride out on my KP HC block. It takes some time to get it right, but the KP HC 3090 block is actually pretty good.
> 
> But, just know good temps are possible for anyone interested in knowing.



I hear ya! The temps I got going with my HC block are pretty suitable for me as well. Having 2,700mm of radiator space along with a BPC will do that lol. I'm waiting on my order for an Optimus block though, since the HC block takes center stage in my build, it would be cool to have one of the most insanely designed blocks ever being center stage instead.


----------



## tps3443

LiquidHaus said:


> I hear ya! The temps I got going with my HC block are pretty suitable for me as well. Having 2,700mm of radiator space along with a BPC will do that lol. I'm waiting on my order for an Optimus block though, since the HC block takes center stage in my build, it would be cool to have one of the most insanely designed blocks ever being center stage instead.


Hey absolutely. I may still grab one too!

Im running a 1,080x45MM Alphacool Nexxxos radiator. I have another one sitting beside me too. But honestly I don’t think I’ll install it. I would
need to add another pump, and I don’t think
I can improve temps anymore.

Not the prettiest setup.. But it sure is fast!!


----------



## HyperMatrix

tps3443 said:


> I managed to get really good temps on my Kingpin Hydro Copper block


What temps and at what power draw? "really good temps" is like someone saying a game "runs fine" for them. It's completely subjective. And I'm easily triggered by anyone claiming the garbage Kingpin HC block is performing well when I've tried the HC block and know it's absolute trash. It could be good enough for your needs, and that's perfectly alright. But "really good temps" is going to need to be clarified.


----------



## tps3443

HyperMatrix said:


> What temps and at what power draw? "really good temps" is like someone saying a game "runs fine" for them. It's completely subjective. And I'm easily triggered by anyone claiming the garbage Kingpin HC block is performing well when I've tried the HC block and know it's absolute trash. It could be good enough for your needs, and that's perfectly alright. But "really good temps" is going to need to be clarified.


It is SUB 600 watts at around 42C max GPU temp. During a 15,900 PR run. Now, when I say good waterblock (I mean acceptable performance) (Or good enough for long term use) I am particular over temps myself.

And I’m not here to deter anyone from the Optimus waterblock. That block is awesome! And you should certainly buy one.

I’m just saying, I also struggled with the KP HC block my self. My temps were crap at about 49-58C with the 300-500+ watts of power consumption. Just utterly sad! Like pure crap performance. (I hated it)

But now I can enjoy it! I game at that lovely 35-38C GPU temps with my 520 LN2 bios. With a 500 to 520 watt load very easily. My memory junction temp is 52C max with a +1750 on my memory. It used to be 68C max. Remember, I cut to fit a giant 3MM Fujipoly thermal pad that covers the entire rear PCB of my 3090 Kingpin.

I was ready to chunk this block though, because (As you said) it was garbage. But, I kept reading about a few uncommon odd ball users, (very few and far between) reporting great results with it. So I persevered and kept trying with it, and after my most recent re-mount and increasing water flow, I was able to get some really great results.

(One week ago, I said the exact same thing) (This
block is garbage) lol


With my single 1080MMx45MM external radiator, and single D5 pump at 4800RPM, I think I could actually improve upon these temps even more, if I added another D5. But normally? My GPU die temps never ever exceeds 37c no matter the power draw. (never) I have personally never gone past 600 watts GPU power consumption anyways. Even with the XOC bios, and classified tool.

I managed to get it working pretty well. And it’s very acceptable! Also, My GPU2 temps, (Backplate behind GPU are 37C with a slow fan pointed at it)



Hope this helps! I was doubful
my self lol.


----------



## UdoG

What had you done to optimize the temps? Replace pads / paste?


----------



## HyperMatrix

tps3443 said:


> SUB 600 watts at around 41-42C max GPU temp


I got 42-43C on my Hybrid block with 2190MHz locked and 22.4GBps on memory pulling 500-520W in PR. Of course with upgraded fans. Hence why I’m not impressed with the HC block. But if you’re able to maintain that during hours of gaming then that’s actually quite reasonable performance. Not for the price they’re charging....but I wouldn’t complain about maxed out 520W gaming at 42C. Especially considering availability in the sense that it’s been available for months. And kingpin block from Optimus is currently nonexistent and Optimus has been completely silent for over 2 weeks now. 

Glad it’s working out for you. I would have been kinder to the HC block if they weren’t charging such a ridiculously high price for it. But at $300 for a block that should be $150...I want to make sure it doesn’t get any free promo here. Especially since that’s $300 without a backplate. Which means we can’t drill holes to mount a ram block to the backside without voiding warranty.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

tps3443 said:


> Hey absolutely. I may still grab one too!
> 
> Im running a 1,080x45MM Alphacool Nexxxos radiator. I have another one sitting beside me too. But honestly I don’t think I’ll install it. I would
> need to add another pump, and I don’t think
> I can improve temps anymore.
> 
> Not the prettiest setup.. But it sure is fast!!


Sick!

I want an all EVGA build.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I got 42-43C on my Hybrid block with 2190MHz locked and 22.4GBps on memory pulling 500-520W in PR. Of course with upgraded fans. Hence why I’m not impressed with the HC block. But if you’re able to maintain that during hours of gaming then that’s actually quite reasonable performance. Not for the price they’re charging....but I wouldn’t complain about maxed out 520W gaming at 42C. Especially considering availability in the sense that it’s been available for months. And kingpin block from Optimus is currently nonexistent and Optimus has been completely silent for over 2 weeks now.
> 
> Glad it’s working out for you. I would have been kinder to the HC block if they weren’t charging such a ridiculously high price for it. But at $300 for a block that should be $150...I want to make sure it doesn’t get any free promo here. Especially since that’s $300 without a backplate. Which means we can’t drill holes to mount a ram block to the backside without voiding warranty.


I hope optimus is working on something big to announce. Maybe its there alternative reservoir mounting solution, extenders or its rotary fittings.


----------



## tps3443

HyperMatrix said:


> I got 42-43C on my Hybrid block with 2190MHz locked and 22.4GBps on memory pulling 500-520W in PR. Of course with upgraded fans. Hence why I’m not impressed with the HC block. But if you’re able to maintain that during hours of gaming then that’s actually quite reasonable performance. Not for the price they’re charging....but I wouldn’t complain about maxed out 520W gaming at 42C. Especially considering availability in the sense that it’s been available for months. And kingpin block from Optimus is currently nonexistent and Optimus has been completely silent for over 2 weeks now.
> 
> Glad it’s working out for you. I would have been kinder to the HC block if they weren’t charging such a ridiculously high price for it. But at $300 for a block that should be $150...I want to make sure it doesn’t get any free promo here. Especially since that’s $300 without a backplate. Which means we can’t drill holes to mount a ram block to the backside without voiding warranty.



When I listed sub 600 watts. This was while trying to use as much power as possible. The XOC KP 1KW bios, classified tool, and all of the dip switches enables. Increased MSVDD and NVDD and increased FBVDD memory voltages. Card idles at about 165+ watts, and pulls 590’s load.

Now, if I just run the LN2 Rebar 520 watt bios with a normal gaming OC of 2,220Mhz. Temps are always 36-38C. I swear, I feel like the GPU temp is now bottlenecked by the GPU2 temp, and that’s the back of the card 


Now, in all honesty you don’t need to overclock this card at all for gaming. I recommend the 520 watt bios, and just stock clocks. Card runs like 34-36C Max like this. Again, based on the back of die temp GPU2, will be my GPU temp. So, there is no way to get the back of the die any cooler. (If I could, then GPU temps would be even lower than this.


This performs though, however the backplate temp mirrors my GPU temps, if I could reduce the backplate. The GPU would run even cooler.


This block is $300 without a backplate. But, technically it doesn’t need one, the KP 3090 has a decent backplate to be used. It also comes with really good 13W/M*k thermal pads too. That’s what I’m using on the front, just the standard Evga pads. They’re certainly good enough.


Anyways, I’m happy with it! Coming from someone who had this block installed previously, and I also managed 55C at SUB 400 watts. Its a long ways from that.


----------



## tps3443

0451 said:


> Sick!
> 
> I want an all EVGA build.


I know right! I guess I should replace my Seasonic PSU for an Evga now too.

Hey, if it wasn’t for your results. I wouldn’t be here. This block performs like a beast now. However, I have learned that I am bottlenecked by GPU2 temps. So we can only get the GPU temps so good. Card requires a fan on the back plate for this too. I am running this massive thermal pad for the back, and GPU1 literally mirrors GPU2 or vice versa. From
my testing, the only thing that would improve beyond this would the MP5 works.

I just can’t get GPU1 cooler than GPU2. And the only way around that is an Optimus Block, or active rear cooling.


----------



## acoustic

Temps are cool but the delta to liquid temp is the more important factor. What's your water temp at?


----------



## Lobstar

tps3443 said:


> Card idles at about 165+ watts, and pulls 590’s load.


And I thought my FTW3U was bad at 125w idle ...


----------



## LiquidHaus

The hottest my card has got was 49c with my current setup, and my fluid temps were 37c at the time. 12c delta is fine, especially knowing that this is an Asetek made block. No A/C in the townhouse I'm in, and so I've got only a swamp cooler. Not the best for handling ambients, which is why I try and throw tons of radiator space at any setup.

I would agree in that the HC block being $300 is ridiculous. Even adjusting for inflation, $150 USD in 2015 is now $172. The HC block should most definitely be priced at $150 and nothing more.


----------



## LiquidHaus

tps3443 said:


> Not the prettiest setup.. But it sure is fast!!


Also, You need these two things for the back side of your radiator


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> Also, You need these two things for the back side of your radiator


I’m replacing my internal radiators with a Mora. What would you use for a small open or semi-open case with no cooling other than maybe a fan or 2 to keep the KP backplate, CPU VRM and RAM from heating things up?

Edit: must accommodate an EATX board.


----------



## LiquidHaus

0451 said:


> I’m replacing my internal radiators with a Mora. What would you use for a small open or semi-open case with no cooling other than maybe a fan or 2 to keep the KP backplate, CPU VRM and RAM from heating things up?
> 
> Edit: must accommodate an EATX board.


If your radiator setup will be externally done, then I recommend you check out the Yuel Beast Lithium chassis. It's open air, but it also can handle EATX, and has plenty of room for GPU cooling, in regards to backplate setups. My recent setup with one had just a single 360mm, but an external radiator could shift things around enough to suit you nicely, I think!


----------



## iamjanco

^Beautiful work, as usual!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> If your radiator setup will be externally done, then I recommend you check out the Yuel Beast Lithium chassis. It's open air, but it also can handle EATX, and has plenty of room for GPU cooling, in regards to backplate setups. My recent setup with one had just a single 360mm, but an external radiator could shift things around enough to suit you nicely, I think!


I was looking at the lithium on the Yuel Beast website, but it looks low quality, especially the fit and finish of the rear cover. I wish there was a Monument that fit an eATX board. Do you know if any stainless steel cases?


----------



## tps3443

UdoG said:


> What had you done to optimize the temps? Replace pads / paste?


Stock thermal pads are actually really great. But I installed the Optimus Fujipoly full coverage rear PCB pad under the backplate. It covers the entire back of the 3090KP (EVERYTHING!) This large pad is also very soft, so it compresses nice and easy. It isn’t a very huge conductive pad at only about 6W/m.k but it’s very good quality, and I can confirm it does out perform the (more conductive pre-installed OEM Evga KP HC 13K/W.M pads) I also had very low waterflow, so I disassembled my EKWB D5 for maintenance, and my pump RPM is at a steady 4,800-4,880+ now. I reinstalled fresh and new Evga KP HC thermal pads for only the front of the card (The are really good thermal pads) and I am using a 1080MMx45MM Alphacool Nexxxos radiator. when I remounted my KP HC block I used a generous amount of Kryonaut Extreme paste.


Temps are just unbelievably good now. I put a lot of time in this re-mount. This thing is setup right. That’s all I can really say about it.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

tps3443 said:


> I managed to get really good temps on my Kingpin Hydro Copper block, so I am gonna pass on the Optimus KP block. Though I was extremely tempted to buy one many times. It’s the wait that kills me Lol.
> 
> 
> Anyways, I’m gonna just ride out on my KP HC block. It takes some time to get it right, but the KP HC 3090 block is actually pretty good.
> 
> But, just know good temps are possible for anyone interested in knowing.


If you're going to make these claims perhaps you should explain what "good temps" are, how to get them, and post proof.


----------



## chibi

Couldn't wait any longer, NF-A12 Chromax are a myth, it's like the HL3 of fans...


----------



## LiquidHaus

0451 said:


> I was looking at the lithium on the Yuel Beast website, but it looks low quality, especially the fit and finish of the rear cover. I wish there was a Monument that fit an eATX board. Do you know if any stainless steel cases?


I actually am not sure of another company that produces a full steel chassis at the quality level other than Yuel Beast. They have an insanely high quality build level. Can you tell me exactly what makes you think it's low quality?

There have been other companies that have reached out to me about working with them in the past, and after receiving their products, I let them know that the quality just isn't worth continuing work on. This has pushed them to up the quality. Yuel Beast on the other hand though has been the opposite. I can't recommend their products enough. Insanely high craftsmanship and design language. If it isn't obvious, they are currently one of my favorite companies at the moment.


----------



## acoustic

LiquidHaus said:


> I actually am not sure of another company that produces a full steel chassis at the quality level other than Yuel Beast. They have an insanely high quality build level. Can you tell me exactly what makes you think it's low quality?
> 
> There have been other companies that have reached out to me about working with them in the past, and after receiving their products, I let them know that the quality just isn't worth continuing work on. This has pushed them to up the quality. Yuel Beast on the other hand though has been the opposite. I can't recommend their products enough. Insanely high craftsmanship and design language. If it isn't obvious, they are currently one of my favorite companies at the moment.


Can you get them to design closed cases focused on custom loops rather than open designs?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> I actually am not sure of another company that produces a full steel chassis at the quality level other than Yuel Beast. They have an insanely high quality build level. Can you tell me exactly what makes you think it's low quality?
> 
> There have been other companies that have reached out to me about working with them in the past, and after receiving their products, I let them know that the quality just isn't worth continuing work on. This has pushed them to up the quality. Yuel Beast on the other hand though has been the opposite. I can't recommend their products enough. Insanely high craftsmanship and design language. If it isn't obvious, they are currently one of my favorite companies at the moment.


Yuel Beast Designs Lithium Case Introduction and Showcase - YouTube

@1:11 in the video gave it away . That steel back panel is flimsy. Coming from an Evolv ATX TG, I'm spoiled by tempered glass and 3mm aluminum.


----------



## tps3443

Edge0fsanity said:


> If you're going to make these claims perhaps you should explain what "good temps" are, how to get them, and post proof.



I don’t want you to think I was discounting the Optimus waterblock, because I would
certainly love to have one. I was just implying you can manage acceptable temps with this block. 

I’m satisfied with it. And it’s acceptable, I’m off today so I am playing a new beta that just became available on steam.

I will post some results for you. This was +120 to +135 with a standard +1500 memory OC.

I impressed with the memory Tjunction temp most of all. And I have some more results I am
going to share in a little bit.


----------



## ciarlatano

chibi said:


> Couldn't wait any longer, NF-A12 Chromax are a myth, it's like the HL3 of fans... 1 set of puke brown incoming











Phanteks T30-120 fan (NF-A12x25 competitor)


Finally out, at least the 120mm model, come on 140mm (normal + frameless for Dual Tower Heatsinks), you're the ones we're waiting for :) The AIO with 38mm depth looks a worthy competitor to Arctic Liquid Freezer II. Liquid-Crystal Polymer, same tip clearance as Noctua at 0.5mm (compared to...




www.overclock.net





🤷‍♂️


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Couldn't wait any longer, NF-A12 Chromax are a myth, it's like the HL3 of fans... 1 set of puke brown incoming


Eh. Why not get phantek t30-120. 3 pack cheaper than noctua a12x25. I also have like 10 as backup fans


----------



## chibi

30mm depth does not work for me unfortunately 😔


----------



## tps3443

ciarlatano said:


> Phanteks T30-120 fan (NF-A12x25 competitor)
> 
> 
> Finally out, at least the 120mm model, come on 140mm (normal + frameless for Dual Tower Heatsinks), you're the ones we're waiting for :) The AIO with 38mm depth looks a worthy competitor to Arctic Liquid Freezer II. Liquid-Crystal Polymer, same tip clearance as Noctua at 0.5mm (compared to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 🤷‍♂️


Nice to see options now days. But thermaltake already released a black A12x25 knock off. And it’s only $20 dollars too!

Noctuas are nice. But, I’m not a fan boy to go and buy Noctua A12x25 branded fans. Especially in a color I don’t even like. I think the Noctua A12’s are actually nice looking fan. However, they just don’t really mesh together with anything.


----------



## Shawnb99

tps3443 said:


> Nice to see options now days. But thermaltake already released a black A12x25 knock off. And it’s only $20 dollars too!
> 
> Noctuas are nice. But, I’m not a fan boy to go and buy Noctua A12x25 branded fans. Especially in a color I don’t even like. I think the Noctua A12’s are actually nice looking fan. However, they just don’t really mesh together with anything.


**** Thermalfake and their knockoffs.


----------



## KedarWolf

Shawnb99 said:


> **** Thermalfake and their knockoffs.


My knockoff Thermaltake Core X9 case is a really good case.


----------



## Shawnb99

KedarWolf said:


> My knockoff Thermaltake Core X9 case is a really good case.


Sorry but I'll never consider anything they make "good"


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Sorry but I'll never consider anything they make "good"


Totally lol. Latest Job turned out lot bigger than thought (getting there on tubing). Cleaning six year old waterparts and finding signs of copper everywhere. That and an s5 pedestal is now an external radiator solution.


----------



## tps3443

Shawnb99 said:


> **** Thermalfake and their knockoffs.


I didn’t realize thermaltake made bad products. 

But, maybe I am using the wrong methods to select a good fan? I always look for the highest static pressure for the lowest cost. 

Either way, the standard TT ToughFan12 performs like the A12x25 and it only cost $16 dollars. So technically even if it performs the similarly, and is only half the build quality. You aren’t really losing anything.


Are the Thermal Take tough fans bad? They look really good for only $15.99!!


----------



## Shawnb99

tps3443 said:


> I didn’t realize thermaltake made bad products.




They are a terrible company. Well known for ripping off the competition then sueing then when they complain.
IMHO this makes everything about them **** and as such I’ll never give them a dime of my money.


----------



## iamjanco

tps3443 said:


> I didn’t realize thermaltake made bad products.


This might help explain some of the reasoning for the low opinions of Thermaltake:

Caselabs and Thermaltake

I personally won't buy a Thermaltake product simply because of that history of nonethical business practices.


----------



## tps3443

Shawnb99 said:


> They are a terrible company. Well known for ripping off the competition then sueing then when they complain.
> IMHO this makes everything about them **** and as such I’ll never give them a dime of my money.


Well seeing as they dropped a $15 dollar black knockoff A12 before Noctua did. The brief history on them certainly sounds believable.


Fortunately, Noctua has a loyal brand following and they make really high quality fans too. So they aren’t going anywhere.

However, my next fan purchase is going to be (18) of the exact same fans all at once. I was hoping to get something that performs better while being quieter per RPM, than what I have. No PWM noises, and still have good static pressure. 

I run the Arctic P120 BioniX. They put out good static pressure like an A12x25, but they’re just much much much less refined lol. Some have PWM noise, and the zero stop feature doesn’t always work properly on the either. I’d have to probably buy (40) of them at once, just to end up with 18) perfect working and perfect sounding fans. But, I guess you get what you pay for. My current fans have the daisy chain feature which is really convenient for large external radiators.


----------



## elbramso

tps3443 said:


> I don’t want you to think I was discounting the Optimus waterblock, because I would
> certainly love to have one. I was just implying you can manage acceptable temps with this block.
> 
> I’m satisfied with it. And it’s acceptable, I’m off today so I am playing a new beta that just became available on steam.
> 
> I will post some results for you. This was +120 to +135 with a standard +1500 memory OC.
> 
> I impressed with the memory Tjunction temp most of all. And I have some more results I am
> going to share in a little bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2522805


What are u showing us? 42,5C max temp @ 107% tdp? Average load 270w. Water temp (I guess) ~ 21C at the start of this run?

Can't see the duration of the run, was it a short run? You should really provide your water temps.

I don't want to trash talk you - I still receive bad results with my block and I'm kinda frustrated 
I followed ur guide - used soft Gelid Extreme 2mm Pads on the front + Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme paste.
Still my delta T (water <-> gpu) is ~ 19c at 520w of load.

I already re-mounted the block couple times and I won't do it again - my optimus block is ordered...

Here is a quick run that I made today:


----------



## ciarlatano

tps3443 said:


> Nice to see options now days. But thermaltake already released a black A12x25 knock off. And it’s only $20 dollars too!
> 
> Noctuas are nice. But, I’m not a fan boy to go and buy Noctua A12x25 branded fans. Especially in a color I don’t even like. I think the Noctua A12’s are actually nice looking fan. However, they just don’t really mesh together with anything.


These are not an A12x25 ripoff like the Tt. They are a black fan that slightly outperformed the A12 in VSG's testing, albeit they are 30mm thick. BTW, in defending the Tt, you literally lowered the price on them in each successive post.....I don't care if they are $5, Tt will never see a penny of my money.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

LiquidHaus said:


> I actually am not sure of another company that produces a full steel chassis at the quality level other than Yuel Beast. They have an insanely high quality build level. Can you tell me exactly what makes you think it's low quality?
> 
> There have been other companies that have reached out to me about working with them in the past, and after receiving their products, I let them know that the quality just isn't worth continuing work on. This has pushed them to up the quality. Yuel Beast on the other hand though has been the opposite. I can't recommend their products enough. Insanely high craftsmanship and design language. If it isn't obvious, they are currently one of my favorite companies at the moment.


I just bought a Yuel Beast Atlas II for my next build. Would never have known about this company if it weren't for the build you posted in here.


----------



## dwolvin

Cool! Please throw us some pics when you unbox it!


----------



## tps3443

elbramso said:


> What are u showing us? 42,5C max temp @ 107% tdp? Average load 270w. Water temp (I guess) ~ 21C at the start of this run?
> 
> Can't see the duration of the run, was it a short run? You should really provide your water temps.
> 
> I don't want to trash talk you - I still receive bad results with my block and I'm kinda frustrated
> I followed ur guide - used soft Gelid Extreme 2mm Pads on the front + Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme paste.
> Still my delta T (water <-> gpu) is ~ 19c at 520w of load.
> 
> I already re-mounted the block couple times and I won't do it again - my optimus block is ordered...
> 
> Here is a quick run that I made today:


If I did a quick run, you’d see 33-34C max lol.
“The maximums in my HW info were the highest reported amount during a extended gaming session“


My results are from opening a game and playing for an hour straight, honestly it was longer than that. HWinfo did idle for a little while before I took a screen shot. But that’s only because I forgot to take it right away. 

My water temp is NOT 21C, my ambient alone is 23C-24C. Let me know what kind of run you want to see and I will post it. And my load water temp is probably 27C.

My temperatures are legitimate, and they manage what I posted, and all the way to an additional 100 or so watts. (SUB 600 watts)


When I posted that HWinfo, that’s my GPU pushing a brand new game ‘Icaryus’ (Beta) to 99% for over an hour. The maximums are legitimate. That is not a (quick) run. The temps will not get any warmer.

When have I ever made a false claim? I hated this waterblock for alot more time than not.


----------



## acoustic

Eh, I don't see how pushing an additional 100 watts would have zero change in temps, especially up to "sub 600" watts when your pic is showing a max of 458watts with an average of 269w. Looks like you had the rig idling for quite some time either before or after you did your hour run, which kind of mucks up the data you're trying to show. Your minimum temp is 22.8c in that pic, so your ambient has to be at least 22.8c or higher, maybe 24c or so.

Either way, if you want to claim you can push sub 600 watts and manage max of 42c, then show proof that pushes the wattage you claim with the temps you claim. Right now you're all over the place -- claiming one thing but giving evidence of something entirely different..

I'm assuming you don't have a water temp sensor, which honestly makes all of your data kind of useless, no offense. The delta between WaterT and GPU temp are the most important when discussing the quality of a waterblock to dissipate heat.


----------



## mron0903

recently got the EK block for my 3080ti Strix and I am contemplating ordering the Optimus for it instead. My temps are pretty good, using the galax 1000w bios, during Superposition 8k benchmark my thermals are GPU:48c Hotspot: 57c MemTemp: 58c while averaging 560w.. 

Has anyone directly compared an EK block with the Optimus for either the FTW3 or Strix cards?? Really curious if it's that much better of a block.


----------



## tps3443

acoustic said:


> Eh, I don't see how pushing an additional 100 watts would have zero change in temps, especially up to "sub 600" watts when your pic is showing a max of 458watts with an average of 269w. Looks like you had the rig idling for quite some time either before or after you did your hour run, which kind of mucks up the data you're trying to show. Your minimum temp is 22.8c in that pic, so your ambient has to be at least 22.8c or higher, maybe 24c or so.
> 
> Either way, if you want to claim you can push sub 600 watts and manage max of 42c, then show proof that pushes the wattage you claim with the temps you claim. Right now you're all over the place -- claiming one thing but giving evidence of something entirely different..
> 
> I'm assuming you don't have a water temp sensor, which honestly makes all of your data kind of useless, no offense. The delta between WaterT and GPU temp are the most important when discussing the quality of a waterblock to dissipate heat.





Sorry, I don’t have a water temp sensor. However, this is a legitimate run. Im gaming for over an hour with 100% GPU usage with my normal daily settings. I was just going by my max temps, I was thinking that would be useful information. And yes, my load temp doesn’t really move much more than this, even up to around 570 watts of power. The GPU temp is essentially bottlenecked by the GPU2 temp (The back of the die/ or backplate) also, I have very large external radiator with (18) 120MM fans on it. My mount is also really really good, however if my backplate temp over the die runs 38C, then my gpu does too. Or if it runs 41C then so does my GPU. They literally mirror each other. I essentially cut 10-12C off of this card since this re-mount, and using that full coverage thermal pad


However, I will re-run it. The system idled for a few minutes after the run. I didn’t think it mattered. Because I was just trying to display the (Maximum temps)


I have a thermometer that I can use to check room temp, and water temp too. But I am not sure on the accuracy. I think it does give an idea though.


And yea my GPU says 22.8C however, my home has a temp of 24C most of the time after the sun sets. And especially in the corner that my work station is in runs on the higher part of that spectrum. It’s about 100F outside right now, and 77F inside my home. Humidity average is over 70% where I live.


Also, I have never ever claimed good temps with this card. I never have and never will. And, I don’t lie. I have been struggling with this block for a while now. So, this is not a quick run, or some BS temps. That’s dumb to do that. I am being realistic.. If I was gonna do that. I’d be able to show my GPU way lower than 42.5 max because it sits at 32-33C for about 5-10 minutes under load before eventually hitting a maximum of around 38C usually. (Again due to being bottlenecked by my total card temp, and back of card being air cooled only)


I will gladly run this again. My prior info that I displayed was normal usage on the card. I just ran a game for over an hour, or at least an hour minimum with a standard overclock. And those maximums are what it hit. And that’s the power that it used. My average power consumption was not 280 watts lol that card would run like 32C at 280 watts.



My work area is just over 25C right now, as I type this. I do not have low ambients. I wish I did. Then I wouldn’t have been struggling Before.


Also, my water temp using a sensor right now is 26.7C (Idle)

Once I get off work, I will re-do this Though. Also, I think a video would be better. So I will go that route most likely.


----------



## acoustic

I honestly don't have a horse in this race. I run an EK block on my 3080TI and also have better WaterT delta than what many claimed should be expected, but I've been pleasantly surprised by how it performs.

I'm just saying that if you claim the temps are the same at over 550watts of power compared to 450, then show the evidence of that. It's kind of hard to believe that your temps don't change at all adding over 100watts of heat into the loop - that's just not how that works. 

As for guessing the water temp.. It's not possible for your GPU to idle below your water temp, so if the card is idling at 22-23c, then your water is likely 20-22c. Your water temp is likely the same as ambient if you're running a large external rad, at least at idle, so that kind of narrows things down a bit.

I would highly suggest grabbing a temp sensor and flow sensor, like an Aquacomputer High Flow NEXT - definitely important to see your WaterT and your flow.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

mron0903 said:


> recently got the EK block for my 3080ti Strix and I am contemplating ordering the Optimus for it instead. My temps are pretty good, using the galax 1000w bios, during Superposition 8k benchmark my thermals are GPU:48c Hotspot: 57c MemTemp: 58c while averaging 560w..
> 
> Has anyone directly compared an EK block with the Optimus for either the FTW3 or Strix cards?? Really curious if it's that much better of a block.


Maybe someone on Youtube has done a comparison. I got the EK for my FTW3 and briefly considered putting it on while waiting to get Optimus but ended up returning it for full refund instead of dealing with trying to sell second-hand.

Sub-50 on Galax seems pretty damn good. If I had good temps I'm not sure I'd be compelled to spend another $400 and go through hassle of swapping but that's just me.


----------



## acoustic

mron0903 said:


> recently got the EK block for my 3080ti Strix and I am contemplating ordering the Optimus for it instead. My temps are pretty good, using the galax 1000w bios, during Superposition 8k benchmark my thermals are GPU:48c Hotspot: 57c MemTemp: 58c while averaging 560w..
> 
> Has anyone directly compared an EK block with the Optimus for either the FTW3 or Strix cards?? Really curious if it's that much better of a block.


I'm currently running the EK block on my 3080TI Strix, and I'm getting a 14c delta on the strix BIOS @ 450watt. If I didn't have the block already, it would have been worth it, but the STRIX block still hadn't been released when I was building, and Microcenter had the EK block and backplate available in-store.

If I was building right now, I'd go Optimus for the sub 10c delta, but buying the Optimus after buying the EK? Nah.


----------



## tps3443

acoustic said:


> I honestly don't have a horse in this race. I run an EK block on my 3080TI and also have better WaterT delta than what many claimed should be expected, but I've been pleasantly surprised by how it performs.
> 
> I'm just saying that if you claim the temps are the same at over 550watts of power compared to 450, then show the evidence of that. It's kind of hard to believe that your temps don't change at all adding over 100watts of heat into the loop - that's just not how that works.
> 
> As for guessing the water temp.. It's not possible for your GPU to idle below your water temp, so if the card is idling at 22-23c, then your water is likely 20-22c. Your water temp is likely the same as ambient if you're running a large external rad, at least at idle, so that kind of narrows things down a bit.
> 
> I would highly suggest grabbing a temp sensor and flow sensor, like an Aquacomputer High Flow NEXT - definitely important to see your WaterT and your flow.


Im not so sure about that though. It’s hot as hell in my house right now. I can never get a nice ambient temp. It’s over 100F outside, and 70% humidity average. My GPU has (2) 120MM fans pointed at the back of it too it certainly helps inside of a house. Welcome to Smoldervile! Hot as crap everyday. 


My indoor thermostat of my home say 79F right now. Or 26.1C. However, it is warmer around 27C in my work area.

The temps were only 23C idle GPU or (22.8 in HWinfo) because that was late at night, it cools down a little. But still hot outside.





I am going to get some good results up. I get off work at 8PM.


----------



## Biggu

So a few pages back I was asked for more photos of my setup and I hadn't had time until now. Wiring on the back is a bit of a mess and I still royally hate that fitting to the GPU but thus is the life of having a hydrocopper before Caselabs went under. I have plans for a modular piece that will clean this up big time though.


----------



## Section31

mron0903 said:


> recently got the EK block for my 3080ti Strix and I am contemplating ordering the Optimus for it instead. My temps are pretty good, using the galax 1000w bios, during Superposition 8k benchmark my thermals are GPU:48c Hotspot: 57c MemTemp: 58c while averaging 560w..
> 
> Has anyone directly compared an EK block with the Optimus for either the FTW3 or Strix cards?? Really curious if it's that much better of a block.


Its better but most of the buyers here don’t have ekwb blocks to compare. Best is delta t. Optimus FTW3 is delta t of 8-10 and Ekwb was in the 10ish to 20. The gains are subjective to your usage and setup


----------



## acoustic

Biggu said:


> So a few pages back I was asked for more photos of my setup and I hadn't had time until now. Wiring on the back is a bit of a mess and I still royally hate that fitting to the GPU but thus is the life of having a hydrocopper before Caselabs went under. I have plans for a modular piece that will clean this up big time though.


****ing BEAUTIFUL. That fitting isn't too noticeable. Really nice build.


----------



## tps3443

Biggu said:


> So a few pages back I was asked for more photos of my setup and I hadn't had time until now. Wiring on the back is a bit of a mess and I still royally hate that fitting to the GPU but thus is the life of having a hydrocopper before Caselabs went under. I have plans for a modular piece that will clean this up big time though.


I literally just ordered the Optimus KP block during lunch today. I bit the bullet and $622 with taxes. So I hope it’s good.

Anyways, I saw your build on Optimus website. But, I wanted to ask about your Memory Tjunction temps. 

How are they?


I ordered the rear thermal pad from Optimus, so I am actually running one of those full coverage PCB pads. The results were just insane. Tjunction went down around 11C-12C stock vs stock.

I stalling that big pad was tough though! I had to kinda cut it to fit. They are really stretchy too.

Anyways your build looks great.


----------



## tps3443

acoustic said:


> ****ing BEAUTIFUL. That fitting isn't too noticeable. Really nice build.


I tell you what I am gonna do first.

I will run the LN2 520 watt KP bios, and I will run the card bone stock for 20 loops of PR stress.

Then I will OC the card and do it again.


I will try my best to demonstrate accurate ambient temps and water temps. It is after 6PM and still 97F outside.


----------



## acoustic

tps3443 said:


> I tell you what I am gonna do first.
> 
> I will run the LN2 520 watt KP bios, and I will run the card bone stock for 20 loops of PR stress.
> 
> Then I will OC the card and do it again.
> 
> 
> I will try my best to demonstrate accurate ambient temps and water temps. It is after 6PM and still 97F outside.


Buddy, you don't have to prove anything to me, lol. I wouldn't waste all that time - just play games and enjoy your rig. If you're happy with the temps of your HC block, I don't know why you wasted $600+ on the Optimus block. If the GPU temps are so low with the ambient and suspected waterT that you've claimed, then you're spending a lot of money for very little.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

acoustic said:


> Buddy, you don't have to prove anything to me, lol. I wouldn't waste all that time - just play games and enjoy your rig. If you're happy with the temps of your HC block, I don't know why you wasted $600+ on the Optimus block. If the GPU temps are so low with the ambient and suspected waterT that you've claimed, then you're spending a lot of money for very little.


I agree you should cancel your order if your DeltaT is already good. You are just chasing numbers at this point and this is coming from someone who spent $600 after tax on a ram kit. I’d rather have the HC block if it was the same price because it looks better (IMO) and let’s me use the dip switches.


----------



## tps3443

acoustic said:


> Buddy, you don't have to prove anything to me, lol. I wouldn't waste all that time - just play games and enjoy your rig. If you're happy with the temps of your HC block, I don't know why you wasted $600+ on the Optimus block. If the GPU temps are so low with the ambient and suspected waterT that you've claimed, then you're spending a lot of money for very little.


Its not you. It’s a few people that have said something. I did a bad job with HWinfo I suppose. So I need to re-do it anyways. Several people have requested it before.


----------



## tps3443

0451 said:


> I agree you should cancel your order if your DeltaT is already good. You are just chasing numbers at this point and this is coming from someone who spent $600 after tax on a ram kit. I’d rather have the HC block if it was the same price because it looks better (IMO) and let’s me use the dip switches.


Hey, my memory kit was $552 with tax and shipping for 32GB, so I certainly get it. They work good though.

However, the 3090 GPU temp is bottlenecked by the GPU2 temp. I really need active cooling on the back of the card.

I use the dip switches often my self. And this is one thing that has kinda put me off on it for so long and the price obviously. The questions I have been asking my self are. Should I enable them all? Or just leave them all off? 

So, I think I will just enable the important ones that help. NVVDD helps boost internal clock to external clock. So that’s a good one, and the FBVDD is memory voltage, so enabling those provides 1.53V+ to the GDDR6X so gaming with memory as high as 1800 is stable, or benching even higher. So I will leave those on too. Not sure yet about the LLC load line voltages yet, or MSVDD. MSVDD seems to help with sustaining a higher clock by a tiny amount. But it drastically increases that idle power consumption.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

tps3443 said:


> Hey, my memory kit was $552 with tax and shipping for 32GB, so I certainly get it. They work good though.
> 
> However, the 3090 GPU temp is bottlenecked by the GPU2 temp. I really need active cooling on the back of the card.
> 
> I use the dip switches often my self. And this is one thing that has kinda put me off on it for so long and the price obviously. The questions I have been asking my self are. Should I enable them all? Or just leave them all off?
> 
> So, I think I will just enable the important ones that help. NVVDD helps boost internal clock to external clock. So that’s a good one, and the FBVDD is memory voltage, so enabling those provides 1.53V+ to the GDDR6X so gaming with memory as high as 1800 is stable, or benching even higher. So I will leave those on too. Not sure yet about the LLC load line voltages yet, or MSVDD. MSVDD seems to help with sustaining a higher clock by a tiny amount. But it drastically increases that idle power consumption.


At this point, with the binned 10900K, bdie kit, and Kingpin HC you have the fastest possible 1 GPU gaming setup. You might as well get a 2nd Kingpin. My buddy is selling a new in box one that KedarWolf was going to buy but decided not to.


----------



## chibi

0451 said:


> At this point, with the binned 10900K, bdie kit, and Kingpin HC you have the fastest possible 1 GPU gaming setup. You might as well get a 2nd Kingpin. My buddy is selling a new in box one that KedarWolf was going to buy but decided not to.



Went from telling the guy not to waste money on the Opti block to buying another Kingpin... these forums are a bad influence!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

chibi said:


> Went from telling the guy not to waste money on the Opti block to buying another Kingpin... these forums are a bad influence!


I mean he’s already wasting money so… if you’re going to do something wrong then do it right! His build is so close to reaching ascension.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Another way to look at it:

The backplate cooling and 3-4C delta improvement will provide an extra 0-15mhz improvement when it arrives in 6 months for $600. A second K|NGP|N will provide an extra 2145mhz for $2100 and he can have it within a week.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Went from telling the guy not to waste money on the Opti block to buying another Kingpin... these forums are a bad influence!


You, me, Shawnb99 are all bad influences. I think most of my friends builds are using Optimus CPU blocks and most people i talk with in this hobby either already use optimus gpu block or will use for next gen. Couple of the people here joined Optimus because of me.


----------



## iamjanco

​


----------



## tps3443

0451 said:


> At this point, with the binned 10900K, bdie kit, and Kingpin HC you have the fastest possible 1 GPU gaming setup. You might as well get a 2nd Kingpin. My buddy is selling a new in box one that KedarWolf was going to buy but decided not to.


As for SLI, I am not a fan at all. I had a rough time with my last (2) 2080Ti’s. They really needed a 1200 watt PSU all to themselves (For overclocking on a 520 watt limit each card).. RDR2 Vulkan engine was great though! But other than that, I spent wayy too many hours tweaking settings in the Nvinspector. I would waste like 2 hours a day playing with nvinspector just to get games working with SLI or nvlink. It was so frustrating. 

(2) 3090 Kingpins sure is awesome! But, such a waste of power! That card would be better off going to a good home with a owner who’s gonna actually use it, and care for it, and appreciate it for what it was intended for, and that’s gaming and benching lol!!


I do appreciate that offer though. It was a reply just like that, which was how I acquired mine. The seller had received offers all the time of like $2,700-$2,800 dollars. And, all he wanted was msrp or what he paid. He simply wanted it to go to a legit person who would use it. No miners, no scalpers etc. No one who already has one etc. 


Anyways, I just finished the temperature video.


Posting now!


----------



## tps3443

Section31 said:


> You, me, Shawnb99 are all bad influences. I think most of my friends builds are using Optimus CPU blocks and most people i talk with in this hobby either already use optimus gpu block or will use for next gen. Couple of the people here joined Optimus because of me.


Optimus is awesome. I’m on my 2nd Optimus CPU block now. First was a Blem SIG V2 all copper that tamed a 7980XE (An amazing deal those blem units) and my new one is actually a retail Signature V2 Nickel, which doesn’t show fingerprints or marks on the exterior nearly as bad as my standard copper Sig V2 did. It’s like a coating is on the block it’s self.


----------



## tps3443

0451 said:


> Another way to look at it:
> 
> The backplate cooling and 3-4C delta improvement will provide an extra 0-15mhz improvement when it arrives in 6 months for $600. A second K|NGP|N will provide an extra 2145mhz for $2100 and he can have it within a week.


So the reasoning behind the Optimus waterblock was, I am going to re-sale my Kingpin Hydro Copper. I will send Evga another $15 for brand new thermal pads. Then re-apply the pads and leave plastic on them, and sale it as used with new thermal pads (Ready to go) 

I also had a random person who offered to buy my full OEM Kingpin hybrid setup for $200 bucks. (now, I will probably keep that for warranty purposes) 


However, I am going to try and re-coup the cost of the Optimus KP block. At least close to half of it. I’m not gonna throw the KP HC block in the closet and let it sit.

I’m not rich by any means, I just keep hearing that this Optimus KP is a ‘spared no expense water-block’ From the thermal pads to the design and fitment. It’s gonna be the absolute best GPU block??? Ok Maybe that’s an over statement. I don’t know if it’s the best or not.

Its an Optimus, they have good stuff. I just hope they don’t go mainstream and start selling AIO’s and next thing you know they’re for sale in Walmart and stuff. I feel like EK went that route.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Optimus reduce quality? This could happen if they are acquired by Corsair or Cooler Master as a premium line to compete with EK.


----------



## tps3443

@elbramso

@0451

So I figured I would do another “Quick run“ for ya. 

(UPDATE) (The boosting in this video is WRONG) this card is set to stock, however. My Evga PX1 software is boosting the card like it’s a (3090 Founders Edition) thats due to having a profile saved in PX1 while using the KP XOC 1KW bios which uses default 3090 boosting. I re-installed my Evga precision X1 software, deleted the profiles, and it fixed its self. (I will return-do this)

Also, only running pull configuration on my fans now, I had it setup push/pull last night and today But I had a rattling or buzzing sound going on with a few fans due to not having the actual
mounting frame for my radiator, so I just removed them and went back to pull only.

And please excuse my kids yelling in the back ground.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Section31 said:


> You, me, Shawnb99 are all bad influences. I think most of my friends builds are using Optimus CPU blocks and most people i talk with in this hobby either already use optimus gpu block or will use for next gen. Couple of the people here joined Optimus because of me.


I agree! You are bad influence but the worst part is you're always coming back... 🤣


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I agree! You are bad influence but the worst part is you're always coming back... 🤣


Just came back lol. Friends build fittings all need to be replaced including the quick disconnect after 5years of usage.


----------



## HyperMatrix

You guys talking about the Kingpin optimus block like: 


You're not several hundred orders back in the queue which means delivery by Q4 2022
Optimus actually exists.

Prior experience tells me that if someone disappears for 17 days...they've likely run into a situation where they lost the ability to breathe.


----------



## tps3443

HyperMatrix said:


> You guys talking about the Kingpin optimus block like:
> 
> 
> You're not several hundred orders back in the queue which means delivery by Q4 2022
> Optimus actually exists.
> 
> Prior experience tells me that if someone disappears for 17 days...they've likely run into a situation where they lost the ability to breathe.


Did you order an Optimus GPU block?


----------



## HyperMatrix

tps3443 said:


> Did you order an Optimus GPU block?


Yes sir. But before it was publicly announced. I think I'm between 6th to 8th place in line.

edit: Should mention that was thanks to Shawnb and not of my own doing.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> You guys talking about the Kingpin optimus block like:
> 
> 
> You're not several hundred orders back in the queue which means delivery by Q4 2022
> Optimus actually exists.
> 
> Prior experience tells me that if someone disappears for 17 days...they've likely run into a situation where they lost the ability to breathe.


This man spitting out facts!

Good effing luck to anyone that ordered recently anything from Optimus,it’s truly sad that such great products come with a completely ******ed customer service. I still can’t wrap my head around that you’re charging $600+usd for a gpu block and went dead effing silent for 17 days???
There’s zero,nada,not 1 single excuse you can come up with that justifies such bs…but I got my stuff and I’m out for the time being regarding Optimus


----------



## tps3443

HyperMatrix said:


> Yes sir. But before it was publicly announced. I think I'm between 6th to 8th place in line.
> 
> edit: Should mention that was thanks to Shawnb and not of my own doing.


Yeah, I could have gotten my self in a much earlier spot. But I was very hesitant about spending that much. I literally saw the page right when it went live And Instead I held off, and now I regret it.


What block did you order?


----------



## elbramso

tps3443 said:


> @elbramso
> 
> @0451
> 
> So I figured I would do another “Quick run“ for ya.
> 
> (UPDATE) (The boosting in this video is WRONG) this card is set to stock, however. My Evga PX1 software is boosting the card like it’s a (3090 Founders Edition) thats due to having a profile saved in PX1 while using the KP XOC 1KW bios which uses default 3090 boosting. I re-installed my Evga precision X1 software, deleted the profiles, and it fixed its self. (I will return-do this)
> 
> Also, only running pull configuration on my fans now, I had it setup push/pull last night and today But I had a rattling or buzzing sound going on with a few fans due to not having the actual
> mounting frame for my radiator, so I just removed them and went back to pull only.
> 
> And please excuse my kids yelling in the back ground.


First of all, I want to make clear that it is not my intention to fight or argue on the internet^^ I appreciate your input and instead of fighting I'd rather ask how you did achieve these results.

I know you used oem pads on the front + 3mm fujipoly full cover pad rear and thermal grizzly extreme paste.
Let's say we're on the same pads + paste. I'm using a bpc from mp5works so my backplate is pretty cool already.

As this isn't my first block and the fact that I have re-mounted this block like 5 times already (used different pads and paste) there has to be some kind of trick to mount it. OR my GPU DIE is curved like earth 
Maybe you could provide some information about screw order? You start with the 4 screws in the center? I tried to do it as described in the manual.

I'm just stunned how it is possible to have such a big difference between same card + same block (model wise).


----------



## Lobstar

HyperMatrix said:


> Prior experience tells me that if someone disappears for 17 days...they've likely run into a situation where they lost the ability to breathe.


17 days isn't even the record for Optimus in this thread. Take off those rose tinted glasses.


----------



## elbramso

Lobstar said:


> 17 days isn't even the record for Optimus in this thread. Take off those rose tinted glasses.


You know what really gets me? The fact, that the shipping information popup doesn’t show up on the website - you know this "updated daily" popup that pests me normally.... now I miss it^^


----------



## onMute

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1432042787067760643


----------



## Biggu

tps3443 said:


> Anyways, I saw your build on Optimus website. But, I wanted to ask about your Memory Tjunction temps.
> 
> How are they?



So from what Ive been seeing idle is generally around 36-37c and while im gaming(any game maxed out 1440p 240hz) Memory tjunction max is 44c. The air flow in my case is all positive pressure and the rear fan acts as an air intake which pushes some air over the top but probably not enough to overcome the four 120mm up top pulling through the rad. I do need to run a actual stress test but just haven't really done it as I'm just computer and not tinkering with it. Any time to tinker that ive had has been on the homelab setup instead.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Anyone else running into this problem on Optimus website when checking out? 










I'm trying to purchase a matching res to my existing one for a new build and I'm blocked from ordering. Emailed Optimus about this already but you know how that goes... It seems if I drop a few of the res parts out of my cart it will let me order. Odd. Really want to get this ordered now given shipping times and the fact that parts show in stock right now. No variation of my address will work anymore. I think I own everything they make at this point and have shipped 10 orders to my current address. Really stupid bug. @Optimus WC please fix this.


----------



## elbramso

onMute said:


> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1432042787067760643


Optimus should just take this statement and put it on their twitter instead of replying to someone.
Such a post once a week and we're all good


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, I'm back, feel free to shoot questions here and I'll answer them. 

Why the delay in responding? Refreshing OCN constantly (or any forum, it's a bad model) is a near full time job. 

More importantly, the last two weeks have been an all-hands-on-deck event where we moved to a much bigger facility and set up new equipment for some exciting stuff coming very soon  

Since it was such a big project, only standard emails got answered, your resident nerd (aka the person typing this right now) was neck deep in making the move happen, so any special questions have been delayed until now. 

RE: TEXAS. We saw this....so bizarre!! We're look into it, prob a bug with the shipping program or something like an auto storm thing. We'll know soon.


----------



## tps3443

There you have it guys! Optimus is right there above us!


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC KPE how much longer?


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC KPE how much longer?


They're in production, we're doing a new finishing process that we don't have an exact ETA but it'll be much faster than previous options. 

We'll show it off soon and then you can choose colors. We're super excited about it for many many reasons, we think it'll be a huge hit


----------



## elbramso

Optimus WC said:


> They're in production, we're doing a new finishing process that we don't have an exact ETA but it'll be much faster than previous options.
> 
> We'll show it off soon and then you can choose colors. We're super excited about it for many many reasons, we think it'll be a huge hit


NUMBERS!! Please


----------



## Optimus WC

The KPE block will get about 26-30c cooler on the rear vram vs our XL Heatsink backplate, which is already very good. So roughly 46-48c now vs 74-76c. And as a bonus, an extra couple C better on the die. And you can push the OC higher vs the ftw3 block. Of course, results will vary depending on setup, test, etc etc. We run our test on our regulated temp system at 25c locked water temp to get true deltas. Used a bunch of benchmarking programs, incl mining that flogs the vram. The only limits we hit were trying to break sub-ambient world records


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Maybe I just misunderstood something here but just before Optimus released the Strix Waterblock didn’t they say how the XL heatsink was as good as a back watercooled block and how they thoroughly tested it against other back watercooled blocks etc etc…and it’s not worth it because it gives literally the same reults?

So how come now suddenly it does roughly improve the vram temps by 26-30c?

Just asking because I might have misunderstood


----------



## dwolvin

I think it's actively cooled backplate vs their original ribbed passive one (which was already pretty good).


----------



## Optimus WC

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Maybe I just misunderstood something here but just before Optimus released the Strix Waterblock didn’t they say how the XL heatsink was as good as a back watercooled block and how they thoroughly tested it against other back watercooled blocks etc etc…and it’s not worth it because it gives literally the same reults?
> 
> So how come now suddenly it does roughly improve the vram temps by 26-30c?
> 
> Just asking because I might have misunderstood


To clarify:

The XL Heatsink is approx as good as a competitor's active backplate in real-world usage. So in normal usage, they get 74c, we get 74c. Approx of course, results will change on lots of factors. You can also reduce the rear mem temp with our backplate by 10c by having a fan on it  

As for actual real-world performance in programs -- rendering, gaming, whatever (aka what most people will use the blocks for) -- the XL Heatsink will provide roughly the same performance as even our kingpin rear waterblock aka active backplate. Meaning, even by dropping the rear mem by another 20c, you're not going to get noticeable program improvements like you do when switching to our blocks from an air cooler or even other waterblocks. In our early tests, we had a very hard time finding a scenario that would actually show the difference between active and our XL Heatsink, outside of just raw temp numbers. Unlike the die, the vram performance isn't massively affected by swings in temp. 

That said, if you're pushing extremes, there is performance to be gained by just cooling everything to the max. Like liquid nitrogen. Kingpin is about the extreme extremes


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, I'm back, feel free to shoot questions here and I'll answer them.
> 
> Why the delay in responding? Refreshing OCN constantly (or any forum, it's a bad model) is a near full time job.
> 
> More importantly, the last two weeks have been an all-hands-on-deck event where we moved to a much bigger facility and set up new equipment for some exciting stuff coming very soon
> 
> Since it was such a big project, only standard emails got answered, your resident nerd (aka the person typing this right now) was neck deep in making the move happen, so any special questions have been delayed until now.
> 
> RE: TEXAS. We saw this....so bizarre!! We're look into it, prob a bug with the shipping program or something like an auto storm thing. We'll know soon.


Does it include some of the long awaited items outside of GPU blocks?


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> They're in production, we're doing a new finishing process that we don't have an exact ETA but it'll be much faster than previous options.
> 
> We'll show it off soon and then you can choose colors. We're super excited about it for many many reasons, we think it'll be a huge hit


So if I'm translating this correctly, I'm not fluent in Optimus speak so excuse any mistakes. You're about 1-2 weeks out from showing off colors and 4 weeks off from the finish


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Shawnb99 said:


> So if I'm translating this correctly, I'm not fluent in Optimus speak so excuse any mistakes. You're about 1-2 weeks out from showing off colors and 4 weeks off from the finish


Aren’t the 1st KP blocks supposed to be shipped out in approximately 2ish weeks when you ordered the first day?
I’m not understanding this,how can you pay for something and order to wait 1 month to be told you’ll see the colors in about 1-2 weeks. Think I’m missing something,what did you guys order here


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Aren’t the 1st KP blocks supposed to be shipped out in approximately 2ish weeks when you ordered the first day?


What? Why the hell would you have an expectation like that? This is Optimus.


----------



## Shawnb99

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Aren’t the 1st KP blocks supposed to be shipped out in approximately 2ish weeks when you ordered the first day?
> I’m not understanding this,how can you pay for something and order to wait 1 month to be told you’ll see the colors in about 1-2 weeks. Think I’m missing something,what did you guys order here


The order page was put up early by mistake, since we found it they kept it up. So that estimate was always a week or two off. Plus it’s Optimus so any timeframe given by them is always off.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> What? Why the hell would you have an expectation like that? This is Optimus.


Because for once I wanted to be positive and like @Section31 says “not complain” but guess you can’t!

I wasn’t following the KP updates,but basically now you’ll wait for 1-2 weeks to choose from the colors and then atleast 4-6weeks till it gets shipped? (4-6weeks in Optimus time is 8-12weeks) damn,that’ll be atleast October


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> To clarify:
> 
> The XL Heatsink is approx as good as a competitor's active backplate in real-world usage. So in normal usage, they get 74c, we get 74c. Approx of course, results will change on lots of factors. You can also reduce the rear mem temp with our backplate by 10c by having a fan on it
> 
> As for actual real-world performance in programs -- rendering, gaming, whatever (aka what most people will use the blocks for) -- the XL Heatsink will provide roughly the same performance as even our kingpin rear waterblock aka active backplate. Meaning, even by dropping the rear mem by another 20c, you're not going to get noticeable program improvements like you do when switching to our blocks from an air cooler or even other waterblocks. In our early tests, we had a very hard time finding a scenario that would actually show the difference between active and our XL Heatsink, outside of just raw temp numbers. Unlike the die, the vram performance isn't massively affected by swings in temp.
> 
> That said, if you're pushing extremes, there is performance to be gained by just cooling everything to the max. Like liquid nitrogen. Kingpin is about the extreme extremes


I am even more interested in your planned future fittings and would love if you guys made quick disconnects too. I just took apart my friend's rig (6years old fitting bp an koolance qd3) and while the fittings are still functional, there is so much paint chipping in 90% of the fittings, we decided its best to replace them. Ordered whole bunch of ekwb torque

















Silver is brand new


----------



## acoustic

Those EKWB torques look really good in black. It's tempting.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Got a question guys,as you have probably seen I’ve finished my build 2 weeks ago.

But after 2 weeks I can’t get rid of the air/bubbles in the Optimus res?
I’ve tilted the case completely,pumps both running 100% then I lowered them to 30-50%,added more distilled water but they’re still there.

The optimus gpu and cpu block are 100% clean of any bubbles,that was cleared after 5-8h day one but just this. It doesn’t bother me or that it messes up any temps,my temps are ridiculously good it’s more if I wanted them out how would I do it? I can’t add more distilled,it’s like 95% full. When I do tilt the case the res gets completely full,but once I return it back it becomes like this


----------



## dwolvin

I'll hope a chemistry person can pipe up, but I think a drop or two of water wetter might help clear it? Something to lower the surface tension (maybe even a drop of soap). That said, don't do it on my recollection- I'm no chemist!


----------



## Lobstar

acoustic said:


> Those EKWB torques look really good in black. It's tempting.


They are very very hit and miss. Some have great pressure and really hold tubes on the barb but I had to return over half of the 30 I bought mine since the ZMT would pull right out of it with the slightest pressure.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> They are very very hit and miss. Some have great pressure and really hold tubes on the barb but I had to return over half of the 30 I bought mine since the ZMT would pull right out of it with the slightest pressure.


interesting. i use ekwb torque rotary 90 and flow splitter and i love them.


----------



## Lobstar

Section31 said:


> interesting. i use ekwb torque rotary 90 and flow splitter and i love them.


Those rotary 90s leak at the joint with the slightest torque applied. I can lightly tap a finger on mine and get a spritz out of it. By comparison my Koolance QDCs have AMAZING compression fittings that I can't pull out with all my strength.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> Those rotary 90s leak at the joint with the slightest torque applied. I can lightly tap a finger on mine and get a spritz out of it. By comparison my Koolance QDCs have AMAZING compression fittings that I can't pull out with all my strength.


I haven't encountered that. My BP ones can be very problematic and BP in general has been more problematic for me. I will be replacing them all with Optimus Rotary.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

EK lookwise is great but otherwise my 90degree Phanteks fittings are seriously 10x better in every sense. Day and night difference,if you have the money and like the Phanteks look of the fittings I would recommend it to anyone.

Even fully inside when I touch the tubes I always have the feeling on the EKs it’ll pop out,the Phanteks you can rattle,pull,push around it’s stable as stable it can be…


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> EK lookwise is great but otherwise my 90degree Phanteks fittings are seriously 10x better in every sense. Day and night difference,if you have the money and like the Phanteks look of the fittings I would recommend it to anyone.
> 
> Even fully inside when I touch the tubes I always have the feeling on the EKs it’ll pop out,the Phanteks you can rattle,pull,push around it’s stable as stable it can be…


Phantek and Optimus are probably the top for fittings in general lol. They also cost the most.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> Phantek and Optimus are probably the top for fittings in general lol. They also cost the most.


My Koolance fittings would disagree with that statement. I spent I think over $1500 in Koolance fittings for my build.  And you can't beat the wrench compatibility.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> My Koolance fittings would disagree with that statement. I spent I think over $1500 in Koolance fittings for my build.  And you can't beat the wrench compatibility.


Koolance did have that scandal involving the paint on there black quick disconnects till they fixed it in 2015 or so. Though after pulling apart my friends black qd3 (one of the early fixed batch), i wouldn't use black qd3/qd4 again. I think all my bulids since then have been the silver color ones.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> Koolance did have that scandal involving the paint on there black quick disconnects till they fixed it in 2015 or so. Though after pulling apart my friends black qd3 (one of the early fixed batch), i wouldn't use black qd3/qd4 again. I think all my bulids since then have been the silver color ones.


Definitely lost some paint on them after putting them through the ultrasonic. Problem is I really hate chrome accents. Whether on computers or on cars. But in terms of working with them...far easier than any other I've used. Being able to get into tight spaces and tighten/loosen with a wrench. Or double-wrenching to tighten the compression fittings so you don't stretch/move your tubing as you're hand-twisting and can't get enough grip, resulting in a less than secure fit. I've just had a lot of inconvenient experiences with other fittings.


----------



## Lobstar

My black QDC3s definitely are marred up but thats from me using the wrong tools with brass. Aside from that no paint chipping or anything


----------



## LiquidHaus

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> But after 2 weeks I can’t get rid of the air/bubbles in the Optimus res?


Add 10-20 drops of Propylene Glycol, leave it running overnight and see how it looks after. I used to use it in systems that I'd ship during the winter months to lower the freezing point of distilled water. Would always rid the bubbles from any loop I added it to within a few hours.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

LiquidHaus said:


> Add 10-20 drops of Propylene Glycol, leave it running overnight and see how it looks after. I used to use it in systems that I'd ship during the winter months to lower the freezing point of distilled water. Would always rid the bubbles from any loop I added it to within a few hours.


Thanks!

I’ve just ordered some and lets see if they disappear


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Alright alright


----------



## Shawnb99

LiquidHaus said:


> Add 10-20 drops of Propylene Glycol, leave it running overnight and see how it looks after. I used to use it in systems that I'd ship during the winter months to lower the freezing point of distilled water. Would always rid the bubbles from any loop I added it to within a few hours.


Couple drops of Dawn dish soap works just as well.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I’ve just ordered some and lets see if they disappear


I should order some phantek fittings in next time.


----------



## satinghostrider

Guys, just curious. Those on the Signature V2 blocks for Intel 1200 socket, is it recommended to use the stock mounting plate or use the EKWB Magnitude mounting plate as earlier on this thread I heard the EKWB mounting plates provides better mounting pressure and contact. Thanks in advance!


----------



## HyperMatrix

satinghostrider said:


> Guys, just curious. Those on the Signature V2 blocks for Intel 1200 socket, is it recommended to use the stock mounting plate or use the EKWB Magnitude mounting plate as earlier on this thread I heard the EKWB mounting plates provides better mounting pressure and contact. Thanks in advance!


There are people on both sides of the issue. Mine is perfectly fine without using a backplate. Asus Maximus XIII Hero board. 0451 had same performance I believe and worried about motherboard flex on his astock. Unless you find a particular need for using the EK backplate with your specific motherboard, I’d say it’s not needed. It was designed for use without one, after all.


----------



## satinghostrider

HyperMatrix said:


> There are people on both sides of the issue. Mine is perfectly fine without using a backplate. Asus Maximus XIII Hero board. 0451 had same performance I believe and worried about motherboard flex on his astock. Unless you find a particular need for using the EK backplate with your specific motherboard, I’d say it’s not needed. It was designed for use without one, after all.


I'm on Asus M13A so probably will just use the provided backplate by Optimus. Thanks!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

satinghostrider said:


> Guys, just curious. Those on the Signature V2 blocks for Intel 1200 socket, is it recommended to use the stock mounting plate or use the EKWB Magnitude mounting plate as earlier on this thread I heard the EKWB mounting plates provides better mounting pressure and contact. Thanks in advance!


I want other people to try with EK mounting hardware and without. Personally, I swear by it. I am very happy with my CPU temp and OC.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

satinghostrider said:


> I'm on Asus M13A so probably will just use the provided backplate by Optimus. Thanks!


They don’t provide a backplate.


----------



## elbramso

Optimus did confirm that the signature v2 block will fit on LGA1700, right?


----------



## HyperMatrix

elbramso said:


> Optimus did confirm that the signature v2 block will fit on LGA1700, right?


Yes they did.


----------



## HyperMatrix

0451 said:


> I want other people to try with EK mounting hardware and without. Personally, I swear by it. I am very happy with my CPU temp and OC.


I thought you said you had the exact same temps with or without the backplate?


----------



## satinghostrider

0451 said:


> They don’t provide a backplate.


Seperate purchase? I'm still deciding so just wanted to know.


----------



## HyperMatrix

satinghostrider said:


> Seperate purchase? I'm still deciding so just wanted to know.


No the design is without a backplate. The pins go in from the front and you screw on the caps from the back which holds it against the board. The problem 0451 had was that he felt it was flexing his motherboard without the backplate so he opted to use a backplate from another one of his blocks. He had reportedly gotten the same temps with both setups.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> I thought you said you had the exact same temps with or without the backplate?


EK Supremacy EVO with EK hardware had the same temps as Optimus Signature V2 with EK hardware at 5.3. Optimus with Optimus hardware wouldn’t boot 5.3.



satinghostrider said:


> Seperate purchase? I'm still deciding so just wanted to know.


No. They don’t have a backplate at all. The PCB of your motherboard is load bearing and the Apex doesn’t have it’s own motherboard backplate to prevent flex.


----------



## satinghostrider

0451 said:


> EK Supremacy EVO with EK hardware had the same temps as Optimus Signature V2 with EK hardware at 5.3. Optimus with Optimus hardware wouldn’t boot 5.3.
> 
> 
> No. They don’t have a backplate at all. The PCB of your motherboard is load bearing and the Apex doesn’t have it’s own motherboard backplate to prevent flex.


If that's the case, then you're right better to use the EK mounting backplate. The apex board doesn't have a backplate that improves the rigidity of the board. I'd much rather use the EK backplate given that I don't need to remove the board from my Singularity case as I don't have an access opening to mount it directly as what you mentioned.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, jumping in to clarify the backplate thing again 

-The Signature v2 has been extensively tested against the evo and other blocks with extremely different numbers. 
-In testing, if two blocks are performing identically (esp the sig vs an older evo) then there is something off with the board, cpu, or testing methodology. We have all the blocks, we tested this years ago using regulated lab testing methods. So have other people in this forum from long ago. The two blocks couldn't be more different, so something is off  
-Also worth knowing, home testing with the integrated temp sensors isn't accurate enough for testing for +/- 1-2c. It's all within the margin of error. 
-We used to offer a backplate. But performance is BETTER with the new method. We can explain why, but it would take a while. 
-Techpowerup tested w/ and w/o backplate: Optimus Foundation CPU Block (Intel) Review
-TPU's testing actually doesn't really favor our block because A) it uses a weaker DDC and B) doesn't really push the CPU very hard (thus why the numbers are all fairly close). 

At the end of the day, use what works for you  If you like backplates, go for it. But we just want everyone to get the best performance and this is something we've spent a ton of time testing and refining -- it would have been easy for us to keep the old backplate+spring style, but we knew we could get more performance with the new system, even if it it seems counterintuitive


----------



## Jwick

the plate on the back of the board bends when u lock the cpu in the socket(11900k). u can see the arch clearly. its probably due to the thicker pcb, and intel didnt redesign their mounting system.


----------



## Jwick

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, jumping in to clarify the backplate thing again
> 
> -The Signature v2 has been extensively tested against the evo and other blocks with extremely different numbers.
> -In testing, if two blocks are performing identically (esp the sig vs an older evo) then there is something off with the board, cpu, or testing methodology. We have all the blocks, we tested this years ago using regulated lab testing methods. So have other people in this forum from long ago. The two blocks couldn't be more different, so something is off
> -Also worth knowing, home testing with the integrated temp sensors isn't accurate enough for testing for +/- 1-2c. It's all within the margin of error.
> -We used to offer a backplate. But performance is BETTER with the new method. We can explain why, but it would take a while.
> -Techpowerup tested w/ and w/o backplate: Optimus Foundation CPU Block (Intel) Review
> -TPU's testing actually doesn't really favor our block because A) it uses a weaker DDC and B) doesn't really push the CPU very hard (thus why the numbers are all fairly close).
> 
> At the end of the day, use what works for you  If you like backplates, go for it. But we just want everyone to get the best performance and this is something we've spent a ton of time testing and refining -- it would have been easy for us to keep the old backplate+spring style, but we knew we could get more performance with the new system, even if it it seems counterintuitive
> 
> View attachment 2523210


have u tested the optimus sig block on 11900k?


----------



## Jwick

0451 said:


> EK Supremacy EVO with EK hardware had the same temps as Optimus Signature V2 with EK hardware at 5.3. Optimus with Optimus hardware wouldn’t boot 5.3.
> 
> 
> No. They don’t have a backplate at all. The PCB of your motherboard is load bearing and the Apex doesn’t have it’s own motherboard backplate to prevent flex.


have u tried it without the bracket to lock the cpu in place?


----------



## Jwick

whats the difference between blemish and the normal one. i bought the normal sig v2 copper, and it looks blemished. the two end copper fins are crooked, the whole block looks dirty, the cold plate looks scratched up...... did i get a blemish instead of the new one? i thought the non blemished one should be A++++


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Jwick said:


> whats the difference between blemish and the normal one. i bought the normal sig v2 copper, and it looks blemished. the two end copper fins are crooked, the whole block looks dirty, the cold plate looks scratched up...... did i get a blemish instead of the new one? i thought the non blemished one should be A++++












Blemish one had some minor scratches on the corner(pic)

Also notice how Optimus mounting hardware doesn’t have anything to keep cold plate centered on die. You have to torque down the nuts just right and then hope they don’t shift over time.


----------



## Jwick

odd mine looks much worse than yours even tho its not blemished lol. true. or u need somebody to press the block for u, and then u tighten it. but i got the copper one


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC I have a suggestion for radiator screws now. As suggested by @chibi "M3 or 6/32 screws smallest. This lets you put a silicon sleeve over to reduce vibrations further."


----------



## cptclutch

Installed my FTW3 block yesterday and I'm loving it so far. Such a nice install and design. Dropped my temps from 70c in Port Royal to low 40's. 45th spot for all 3080 Ti's.









I scored 15 100 in Port Royal


Intel Core i9-10900KF Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti x 1, 16384 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}




www.3dmark.com


----------



## tps3443

GraphicsWhore said:


> Alright alright
> 
> View attachment 2523172
> 
> 
> View attachment 2523174
> 
> 
> View attachment 2523175



temps?


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

cptclutch said:


> Installed my FTW3 block yesterday and I'm loving it so far. Such a nice install and design. Dropped my temps from 70c in Port Royal to low 40's. 45th spot for all 3080 Ti's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I scored 15 100 in Port Royal
> 
> 
> Intel Core i9-10900KF Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti x 1, 16384 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.3dmark.com


I have the exact same score and my temps are max at 38c

What’s your oc?

On my Strix 3090 OC I have 

Voltage - max
Core clock - 179+
Memory clock - 1680+

I haven’t tried pushing more yet,this is pretty stable I’m gaming daily and didn’t crash once


----------



## tps3443

0451 said:


> View attachment 2523216
> 
> 
> Blemish one had some minor scratches on the corner(pic)
> 
> Also notice how Optimus mounting hardware doesn’t have anything to keep cold plate centered on die. You have to torque down the nuts just right and then hope they don’t shift over time.


What hardware are you talking about that helps with mounting direct die?

My first Signature V2 block was a blem model, and I (struggled).. I mean really really (STRUGGLED) with even core deviation temps on my 18/36 CPU.
I finally got it right. But, but something I couldn’t repeat easily. I had to use a digital angle finder to achieve good results and even contact.


My new platform has a retail Optimus sig V2 nickel though. This model has all kinds of mounting hardware included with it. Anything to make this easier helps.


The direct die mounting is a serious chore.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

tps3443 said:


> What hardware are you talking about that helps with mounting direct die?
> 
> My first Signature V2 block was a blem model, and I (struggled).. I mean really really (STRUGGLED) with even core deviation temps on my 18/36 CPU.
> I finally got it right. But, but something I couldn’t repeat easily. I had to use a digital angle finder to achieve good results and even contact.
> 
> 
> My new platform has a retail Optimus sig V2 nickel though. This model has all kinds of mounting hardware included with it. Anything to make this easier helps.
> 
> 
> The direct die mounting is a serious chore.


The Optimus sig V2 bolts into the X299 motherboard backplate. On Z490/590 is bolts directly into the PCB. Whether you got a blemish or a non-blemish, this is how it’s supposed to look when installed on z590 and it’s why I use the EK backplate and springs. It guarantees the same, perfect mount every time.

Now what do you mean by all kinds of mounting hardware? Methinks you mistook the X299 backplate with something that was included.

The z490/590 backplate is too small and EK graciously includes a large backplate where Optimus doesn’t:


----------



## tps3443

0451 said:


> The Optimus sig V2 bolts into the X299 motherboard backplate. On Z490/590 is bolts directly into the PCB. Whether you got a blemish or a non-blemish, this is how it’s supposed to look when installed on z590 and it’s why I use the EK backplate and springs. It guarantees the same, perfect mount every time.
> 
> Now what do you mean by all kinds of mounting hardware? Methinks you mistook the X299 backplate with something that was included.
> 
> The z490/590 backplate is too small and EK graciously includes a large backplate where Optimus doesn’t:
> View attachment 2523269



So I actually removed the (3) screws all together about a week ago. Temps improved, and I have been running no die frame screws for about a week now. Now that I don’t need the back plate at all. I won’t use one. The culprit is the plastic back plate most likely that forced me to remove the die frame screws. 

So I am gonna test no back plate at all now. And use only these little black threaded plastic things.


----------



## chibi

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC I have a suggestion for radiator screws now. As suggested by @chibi "M3 or 6/32 screws smallest. This lets you put a silicon sleeve over to reduce vibrations further."


This is the silicone application I do to all my rad fans. Best fitment is 6/32 screws, followed by M3. M4 works if you want to take a drill bit to the fan frame, but it's less effective because the silicone is stretched and has less dampening.


----------



## tps3443

0451 said:


> The Optimus sig V2 bolts into the X299 motherboard backplate. On Z490/590 is bolts directly into the PCB. Whether you got a blemish or a non-blemish, this is how it’s supposed to look when installed on z590 and it’s why I use the EK backplate and springs. It guarantees the same, perfect mount every time.
> 
> Now what do you mean by all kinds of mounting hardware? Methinks you mistook the X299 backplate with something that was included.
> 
> The z490/590 backplate is too small and EK graciously includes a large backplate where Optimus doesn’t:
> View attachment 2523269


So the backplate I have is just large plastic back plate for the waterblock mounting, and it covers the small metal one pictured above like yours. It has threads for the waterblock screws, and sits over top of the little small metal backplate for the (3) die frame screws. My core to core temps look decent enough now after re-mounting everything. My coldest core is 60C and the hottest core is 66C this is at 5.2Ghz all cores and x48 cache frequency. Voltage is 1.375V fixed, with a load line applied to reduce voltage drop. I’m gonna mess with the OC a little more, and see if I can reduce the voltage some. Also, the memory frequency is at 4,800Mhz.


Im not familiar with good temps on a 10900K, I was just gaming for a couple hours, then immediately ran this R15 a few times with warmed water, to see what I’d get. During actual gaming, the hottest core is 40C.



.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

tps3443 said:


> So the backplate I have is just large plastic back plate for the waterblock mounting, and it covers the small metal one pictured above like yours. It has threads for the waterblock screws, and sits over top of the little small metal backplate for the (3) die frame screws. My core to core temps look decent enough now after re-mounting everything. My coldest core is 60C and the hottest core is 66C this is at 5.2Ghz all cores and x48 cache frequency. Voltage is 1.375V fixed, with a load line applied to reduce voltage drop. I’m gonna mess with the OC a little more, and see if I can reduce the voltage some. Also, the memory frequency is at 4,800Mhz.
> 
> 
> Im not familiar with good temps on a 10900K, I was just gaming for a couple hours, then immediately ran this R15 a few times with warmed water, to see what I’d get. During actual gaming, the hottest core is 40C.
> 
> 
> 
> .


My parts are disassembled right now but my hottest core is 70C under load at 5.3 and approximately 82C at 5.4. Here is the back of the board with the Optimus block and EK hardware. The EK backplate is steel and it adds a lot of rigidity.


----------



## satinghostrider

0451 said:


> My parts are disassembled right now but my hottest core is 70C under load at 5.3 and approximately 82C at 5.4. Here is the back of the board with the Optimus block and EK hardware. The EK backplate is steel and it adds a lot of rigidity.
> 
> View attachment 2523294


Yup my magnitude has that same backplate provided by EK. Just curious, did you do a baseline test with the default Optimus bolts without the backplate? What are you current temps with the Optimus block with this EK backplate now? Is it the one you just posted above?

Also, did you use the Optimus tightening bolts or the EK ones?

Thanks a bunch.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

satinghostrider said:


> Yup my magnitude has that same backplate provided by EK. Just curious, did you do a baseline test with the default Optimus bolts without the backplate? What are you current temps with the Optimus block with this EK backplate now? Is it the one you just posted above?
> 
> Also, did you use the Optimus tightening bolts or the EK ones?
> 
> Thanks a bunch.


I posted results and screenshots a while back. I don't have them saved on this laptop. I did a 45 minute P95 stress test and Optimus block and EK block had identical 69/70/72C min/avg/max temps at 5.3 when using the EK hardware. My baseline result with Optimus block / Optimus posts was that it wouldn't boot at 5.3. I could have gotten it to boot if I kept messing with it, but I'm not as fond as remounting as @tps3443. I think the mounting hardware should give you the same mount every time. I have a hard time believing my temps could get any better, since my CPU is #10 on the 8-core 3DMark CPU test HOF and has the 3rd fastest 11900K Time Spy CPU score. All with Optimus block / EK hardware.


----------



## satinghostrider

0451 said:


> I posted results and screenshots a while back. I don't have them saved on this laptop. I did a 45 minute P95 stress test and Optimus block and EK block had identical 69/70/72C min/avg/max temps at 5.3 when using the EK hardware. My baseline result with Optimus block / Optimus posts was that it wouldn't boot at 5.3. I could have gotten it to boot if I kept messing with it, but I'm not as fond as remounting as @tps3443. I think the mounting hardware should give you the same mount every time. I have a hard time believing my temps could get any better, since my CPU is #10 on the 8-core 3DMark CPU test HOF and has the 3rd fastest 11900K Time Spy CPU score. All with Optimus block / EK hardware.


Cool. What EK block were you on before the Optimus? Was it a big difference in temps? 

Thank you.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

satinghostrider said:


> Cool. What EK block were you on before the Optimus? Was it a big difference in temps?
> 
> Thank you.


EK Supremacy EVO purchased in 2016 with the 6700K jet plate. Temperatures were identical as I’ve said several times.


----------



## tps3443

0451 said:


> My parts are disassembled right now but my hottest core is 70C under load at 5.3 and approximately 82C at 5.4. Here is the back of the board with the Optimus block and EK hardware. The EK backplate is steel and it adds a lot of rigidity.
> 
> View attachment 2523294


Ok so it sounds like my temps are fine. I can’t really get a picture of mine right now. My motherboard is on a test bench setup flat on a desk. Gonna Just leave what’s on it.

Getting a good mount on this platform LGA1200 was easy! I have reduced voltage down to (1.335V actual load voltage from cpu readout) so far so good. Temps are in the 56-61C range now. Gonna reduce more voltage tomorrow, and possible try 5.3-5.4. First time attempting to really OC this thing.

X299 was very tough. (If you got a good mount on a 7980XE, don’t touch it!!) Thank god, and hope your LM holds up for as long as possible.


----------



## RoivonPC

Just want to compare temps. My 5950x pulling about 120 watts usually overs around 55c for gaming. Using an AM4 Foundation block.

My FTW3 Ultra 3090 I've never seen over 400 watts, usually 300 to 350. GPU has never been over 40c using the Absolute GPU block.

It sure as hell makes my room warm though. I have to keep the door open or my ambient heads north of 26c.


----------



## HyperMatrix

RoivonPC said:


> It sure as hell makes my room warm though. I have to keep the door open or my ambient heads north of 26c.


Portable room AC is definitely helpful when dealing with this much power draw. I remember back in the day before I set up an AC next to the computer, the room would literally turn into a sauna with a quad-sli setup.


----------



## RoivonPC

Kinda defeats the purpose of a quiet system.


----------



## cptclutch

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I have the exact same score and my temps are max at 38c
> 
> What’s your oc?
> 
> On my Strix 3090 OC I have
> 
> Voltage - max
> Core clock - 179+
> Memory clock - 1680+
> 
> I haven’t tried pushing more yet,this is pretty stable I’m gaming daily and didn’t crash once


+220
+1500 
in afterburner

Pretty happy with the performance so far. I think if I improve my fan setup I could lower my temps a bit and push it a bit further, but being on the top 100 lists in both time spy and port Royale makes me happy. My 3080 Ti is apparently in the top 2% of the 3090 list as well haha.


----------



## HyperMatrix

RoivonPC said:


> Kinda defeats the purpose of a quiet system.


Only other option...and this only works since I'm the only person in the house...shut all of your other vents around the house so your AC system blows everything into your entertainment room.


----------



## Section31

Now one of my friends officially joining optimus club. Decided to make an intel block reusing my spare xe-nickel cold plate (aka the one screwed by brass tubing).


----------



## tps3443

I have gotten 5.3Ghz stable on my 10900K at 1.370V. But I can’t get 5.4Ghz stable to save my life. I have the cooling head room for sending tons of voltage. I just can’t get it stable at all At 5.4 all core


----------



## acoustic

tps3443 said:


> I have gotten 5.3Ghz stable on my 10900K at 1.370V. But I can’t get 5.4Ghz stable to save my life. I have the cooling head room for sending tons of voltage. I just can’t get it stable at all At 5.4 all core


What's your method of testing


----------



## tps3443

acoustic said:


> What's your method of testing




I haven’t even gotten that far yet, I’m just trying to get benching stability lol. I can’t get 5.4Ghz all core through just (1) R15 run consistently. Temps are very solid. It’s like I’m hitting a wall or something.

5.3Ghz at 1.400V set in the bios applies 1.370V under a sustained load, and it’s very stable so far too. Looping R15 back to back results in temps of 59-64C.

5.4Ghz starts out pretty good too, scores low 2,900’s. It just BSOD’s on me after 1 or 2 R15 runs.


I even tried just setting pretty high voltages up to around 1.490 in the bios. No luck at all. Not too familiar with Z490 overclocking.

These are my temps after the 2nd R15 run at 5.4Ghz. They usually stay right around here too.


----------



## acoustic

tps3443 said:


> I haven’t even gotten that far yet, I’m just trying to get benching stability lol. I can’t get 5.4Ghz all core through just (1) R15 run consistently. Temps are very solid. It’s like I’m hitting a wall or something.
> 
> 5.3Ghz at 1.400V set in the bios applies 1.370V under a sustained load, and it’s very stable so far too. Looping R15 back to back results in temps of 59-64C.
> 
> 5.4Ghz starts out pretty good too, scores low 2,900’s. It just BSOD’s on me after 1 or 2 R15 runs.
> 
> 
> I even tried just setting pretty high voltages up to around 1.490 in the bios. No luck at all. Not too familiar with Z490 overclocking.
> 
> These are my temps after the 2nd R15 run at 5.4Ghz. They usually stay right around here too.


Turn your cache down to x45 and try again. Sometimes it can be finicky with CML..


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Turn your cache down to x45 and try again. Sometimes it can be finicky with CML..


Im interested how high i can take 12900k to.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Im interested how high i can take 12900k to.


Meh. The pricing turned me off, if true. Potentially $700 for a chip with gimped PCIE lanes? Might as well go for the HEDT..

I'll wait. Hopefully AMD drops the prices on the overpriced Ryzen garbage and it'll lead to a price war. Unfortunately with the lack of stock I don't know if that'll happen..


----------



## HyperMatrix

acoustic said:


> Meh. The pricing turned me off, if true. Potentially $700 for a chip with gimped PCIE lanes? Might as well go for the HEDT..
> 
> I'll wait. Hopefully AMD drops the prices on the overpriced Ryzen garbage and it'll lead to a price war. Unfortunately with the lack of stock I don't know if that'll happen..


5950x selling for $888 ($709 USD) here in Canada. In stock everywhere. Don’t think they can play the low supply pricing game anymore. Could also be clearing out in preparation for 3D V-Cache models. That could be an interesting purchase.


----------



## Lobstar

acoustic said:


> Hopefully AMD drops the prices on the overpriced Ryzen garbage and it'll lead to a price war.


Yikes. I'm sure you only play the most demanding games and consume only the most rare hentai on that god of an Intel system but it's really weird to be fanboi'ing for a company that hasn't released a new product in 7 years.


----------



## acoustic

HyperMatrix said:


> 5950x selling for $888 ($709 USD) here in Canada. In stock everywhere. Don’t think they can play the low supply pricing game anymore. Could also be clearing out in preparation for 3D V-Cache models. That could be an interesting purchase.


I'm curious how much the V-Cache refresh models will gain over the original. I know the rumors are 15% or so, but I'd like to see real-world application from users first. It's a nice chunk, and might make the price of a 5950X (with V-Cache) more reasonable. We'll see. I expect it to be an easy decision to simply wait for AMDs real response to Alderlake.



Lobstar said:


> Yikes. I'm sure you only play the most demanding games and consume only the most rare hentai on that god of an Intel system but it's really weird to be fanboi'ing for a company that hasn't released a new product in 7 years.


I'm not fanboying anything. If Ryzen had been worth buying (for my uses), I would have bought it. Ryzen 5000 came out overpriced, was plagued with a myriad of issues (most notably the USB drop-out which was around for quite a long time..), and the lack of tuning was a turn-off for me, especially on a system that only games.

I find it strange you think I'm fanboying because I don't think the 5000 chips were a good product, even though I didn't say the Intel products were. Seems like you're the one "fanboying"..

I'll likely pass on Alderlake because of the pricing; just doesn't seem worth it, especially for a first-gen platform that will undoubtedly take some time to refine.

Yes, your reply is yikes indeed.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Meh. The pricing turned me off, if true. Potentially $700 for a chip with gimped PCIE lanes? Might as well go for the HEDT..
> 
> I'll wait. Hopefully AMD drops the prices on the overpriced Ryzen garbage and it'll lead to a price war. Unfortunately with the lack of stock I don't know if that'll happen..


Hoped for better pricing but still going for it myself Life situation is possibly changing so pushing the upgrade plans ahead (no point wating for raptorlake or hedt)


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Hoped for better pricing but still going for it myself Life situation is possibly changing.


Sorry to hear that. I'm not 100% certain I'm passing on the 12900K, but after seeing the pricing I'm not all that interested. If the numbers turn out to be much better once we see users benching and playing with better DDR5 Memory than what we've seen in the leaks, then it may pique my interest enough to make the plunge.

I hope it'll be relatively easy to direct-die as well. I know people are having fits with RKL.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Sorry to hear that. I'm not 100% certain I'm passing on the 12900K, but after seeing the pricing I'm not all that interested. If the numbers turn out to be much better once we see users benching and playing with better DDR5 Memory than what we've seen in the leaks, then it may pique my interest enough to make the plunge.
> 
> I hope it'll be relatively easy to direct-die as well. I know people are having fits with RKL.


Waiting for benchmarks. It's the good type of news,


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Waiting for benchmarks. It's the good type of news,


Well in that case, I hope it goes your way!! Lol


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, jumping in to clarify the backplate thing again
> 
> -The Signature v2 has been extensively tested against the evo and other blocks with extremely different numbers.
> -In testing, if two blocks are performing identically (esp the sig vs an older evo) then there is something off with the board, cpu, or testing methodology. We have all the blocks, we tested this years ago using regulated lab testing methods. So have other people in this forum from long ago. The two blocks couldn't be more different, so something is off
> -Also worth knowing, home testing with the integrated temp sensors isn't accurate enough for testing for +/- 1-2c. It's all within the margin of error.
> -We used to offer a backplate. But performance is BETTER with the new method. We can explain why, but it would take a while.
> -Techpowerup tested w/ and w/o backplate: Optimus Foundation CPU Block (Intel) Review
> -TPU's testing actually doesn't really favor our block because A) it uses a weaker DDC and B) doesn't really push the CPU very hard (thus why the numbers are all fairly close).
> 
> At the end of the day, use what works for you  If you like backplates, go for it. But we just want everyone to get the best performance and this is something we've spent a ton of time testing and refining -- it would have been easy for us to keep the old backplate+spring style, but we knew we could get more performance with the new system, even if it it seems counterintuitive
> 
> View attachment 2523210


Any update on reservoir alternative mounting mechanism. If the alternative mount will support d5 next, i might just go ahead and get your reservoir.


----------



## HyperMatrix

acoustic said:


> I'm curious how much the V-Cache refresh models will gain over the original. I know the rumors are 15% or so, but I'd like to see real-world application from users first. It's a nice chunk, and might make the price of a 5950X (with V-Cache) more reasonable. We'll see. I expect it to be an easy decision to simply wait for AMDs real response to Alderlake.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not fanboying anything. If Ryzen had been worth buying (for my uses), I would have bought it. Ryzen 5000 came out overpriced, was plagued with a myriad of issues (most notably the USB drop-out which was around for quite a long time..), and the lack of tuning was a turn-off for me, especially on a system that only games.
> 
> I find it strange you think I'm fanboying because I don't think the 5000 chips were a good product, even though I didn't say the Intel products were. Seems like you're the one "fanboying"..
> 
> I'll likely pass on Alderlake because of the pricing; just doesn't seem worth it, especially for a first-gen platform that will undoubtedly take some time to refine.
> 
> Yes, your reply is yikes indeed.


...I never said anything about you fanboying


----------



## acoustic

HyperMatrix said:


> ...I never said anything about you fanboying


Two different quotes, brotha.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

tps3443 said:


> I haven’t even gotten that far yet, I’m just trying to get benching stability lol. I can’t get 5.4Ghz all core through just (1) R15 run consistently. Temps are very solid. It’s like I’m hitting a wall or something.
> 
> 5.3Ghz at 1.400V set in the bios applies 1.370V under a sustained load, and it’s very stable so far too. Looping R15 back to back results in temps of 59-64C.
> 
> 5.4Ghz starts out pretty good too, scores low 2,900’s. It just BSOD’s on me after 1 or 2 R15 runs.
> 
> 
> I even tried just setting pretty high voltages up to around 1.490 in the bios. No luck at all. Not too familiar with Z490 overclocking.
> 
> These are my temps after the 2nd R15 run at 5.4Ghz. They usually stay right around here too.


R15 is not a stability test and even as a benchmark is very easy to pass with unstable settings. Unless you can run Prime95 small fft with avx off, I wouldn’t try to stabilize 5.4. What is your CPU package power in R15? If it’s around 260w at 5.3, you might have a shot at 5.4.


----------



## tps3443

0451 said:


> R15 is not a stability test and even as a benchmark is very easy to pass with unstable settings. Unless you can run Prime95 small fft with avx off, I wouldn’t try to stabilize 5.4. What is your CPU package power in R15? If it’s around 260w at 5.3, you might have a shot at 5.4.


Right

*I am not stability testing at all. *

I’m just trying to bench 5.4Ghz. Or get it bench able anyways. So I can get through my benchmark suite.


----------



## HyperMatrix

acoustic said:


> Two different quotes, brotha.


Ah. Probably quoted someone I have blocked. Because I only saw the one quote from myself in your post. Haha.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

tps3443 said:


> temps?


Just finally fired it up and did a TimeSpy run with avg temp of 39

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti video card benchmark result - Intel Core i9-10850K Processor,ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. ROG MAXIMUS XII FORMULA (3dmark.com)

About to start gaming sessions for the next 7+ hours so let's see what happens over longer period but seems to bode well.


----------



## tps3443

GraphicsWhore said:


> Just finally fired it up and did a TimeSpy run with avg temp of 39
> 
> NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti video card benchmark result - Intel Core i9-10850K Processor,ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. ROG MAXIMUS XII FORMULA (3dmark.com)
> 
> About to start gaming sessions for the next 7+ hours so let's see what happens over longer period but seems to bode well.


Ok, thank you. Nice temps.

Im waiting on the 3090 KP Optimus block. But now, I have some how miraculously managed to obtain good temps with my Evga Kingpin HC block Lol. So I am only expecting a slight improvement that wasn’t worth the $622 entry price.


----------



## chibi

@Optimus WC - for future Sig block updates, can you make it so the Optimus branding can be interchangeable? With the current Sig V2, if I want my outlet on the left, I'd have to install it with Optimus branding upside down. Cheers!


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

chibi said:


> @Optimus WC - for future Sig block updates, can you make it so the Optimus branding can be interchangeable? With the current Sig V2, if I want my outlet on the left, I'd have to install it with Optimus branding upside down. Cheers!


We're living in a upside down world so it's just right


----------



## Shawnb99

chibi said:


> @Optimus WC - for future Sig block updates, can you make it so the Optimus branding can be interchangeable? With the current Sig V2, if I want my outlet on the left, I'd have to install it with Optimus branding upside down. Cheers!


Would love that since if I go vertical my KPE will be upside down


----------



## ArcticZero

Thinking of ordering the Foundation block for my incoming 5950x, as I feel like it's the best one for performance + aesthetics. Are Optimus lead/shipping times still as bad as they used to be? Don't really want to wait too long before I get to swap out my parts and rebuild the loop.


----------



## Section31

ArcticZero said:


> Thinking of ordering the Foundation block for my incoming 5950x, as I feel like it's the best one for performance + aesthetics. Are Optimus lead/shipping times still as bad as they used to be? Don't really want to wait too long before I get to swap out my parts and rebuild the loop.


The cpu blocks are alright time line. Its the gpu blocks and fittings that have longer wait times


----------



## ArcticZero

Section31 said:


> The cpu blocks are alright time line. Its the gpu blocks and fittings that have longer wait times


Cheers for this! Looks like I'm ordering one then. Around how long is the expected waiting time currently?


----------



## Section31

ArcticZero said:


> Cheers for this! Looks like I'm ordering one then. Around how long is the expected waiting time currently?


Best to ask them as each country shipping is different. In North America, its 2-3days


----------



## Section31

Poor Planning lol. I should have just bought ton of optimus blemish fittings had i known i had to do wholesale changes of fittings in friends build.

Also possible future optimus gpu user lol. Hardware is old and will eventually be replaced. This is just wholesale upgrade waterloop wise with planning for the future.


----------



## chibi

^ oh man, the spaghetti cables! Pass that my way and a healthy budget to make it pretty and functional 

Side note, reading through the GPU threads, a lot of people are swapping the OEM thermal pads on their 80/90 cards. With the Optimus block, I assume the pads provided are good enough/better than swapping other pads? I'm super bored right now. Waiting on parts from Europe and USA and nothing to do but ramble, haha.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Section31 said:


> Poor Planning lol. I should have just bought ton of optimus blemish fittings had i known i had to do wholesale changes of fittings in friends build.
> 
> Also possible future optimus gpu user lol. Hardware is old and will eventually be replaced. This is just wholesale upgrade waterloop wise with planning for the future.



You got to fix that cable disaster,a TRUE enthusiast would never post such a cable mess!
If you need help Google is your friend,nothing to be ashamed off to ask for help because clearly you are struggling with cable management


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> ^ oh man, the spaghetti cables! Pass that my way and a healthy budget to make it pretty and functional
> 
> Side note, reading through the GPU threads, a lot of people are swapping the OEM thermal pads on their 80/90 cards. With the Optimus block, I assume the pads provided are good enough/better than swapping other pads? I'm super bored right now. Waiting on parts from Europe and USA and nothing to do but ramble, haha.


No budget or i would do that. I wanted to get him psu and order custom length mdpc-x but next time


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> You got to fix that cable disaster,a TRUE enthusiast would never post such a cable mess!
> If you need help Google is your friend,nothing to be ashamed off to ask for help because clearly you are struggling with cable management


Yup something to fux in future iterations lol. I actually cleaned it up further lol. Glad i never ordered an usb hub with my s8


----------



## Section31




----------



## cptclutch




----------



## Dreams-Visions

cptclutch said:


> View attachment 2524042


Please share your solution for adding LED lighting to your blocks!


----------



## cptclutch

Dreams-Visions said:


> Please share your solution for adding LED lighting to your blocks!


I designed the CPU bracket myself and printed it. The GPU block I just taped an RGB strip along the bottom haha


----------



## jincuteguy

HI guys, so I just ordered 2 ek cryofuel blood red cocentrate 100mL bottles. But on the cap it said the date is Jan 2020. Does that mean they 're expired ? And can I still use them for my loop with the Optimus blocks?


----------



## criskoe

jincuteguy said:


> HI guys, so I just ordered 2 ek cryofuel blood red cocentrate 100mL bottles. But on the cap it said the date is Jan 2020. Does that mean they 're expired ? And can I still use them for my loop with the Optimus blocks?


Ive never used that stuff before but I think EK puts the batch date on the bottle, not the expiry date. Could be wrong tho. The concentrate itself should have a decent shelf life but your best off asking EK them selves. Not alot of EK fans here.


----------



## Shawnb99

No matter the date I wouldn’t trust a bottle of Cryofuel if you paid me.


----------



## jincuteguy

Shawnb99 said:


> No matter the date I wouldn’t trust a bottle of Cryofuel if you paid me.


so what is the coolant to use then? I know most ppl will say distilled water, but I just want to know what is the best coolant (color and besides distilled water)


----------



## Shawnb99

jincuteguy said:


> so what is the coolant to use then? I know most ppl will say distilled water, but I just want to know what is the best coolant (color and besides distilled water)


Mayhems XTR or any of their fluids


----------



## jincuteguy

Shawnb99 said:


> Mayhems XTR or any of their fluids


Isn't Mayhem XTR new? i don't see any review


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah XTR is brand new. Likely not many if any reviews of it. Otherwise X1 or XT are just as good.


----------



## jincuteguy

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah XTR is brand new. Likely not many if any reviews of it. Otherwise X1 or XT are just as good.


Do I need to add anything in my loop if I used Mayhem Ultra Pure H20 + XT-1 Nuke concentrate?


----------



## Shawnb99

jincuteguy said:


> Do I need to add anything in my loop if I used Mayhem Ultra Pure H20 + XT-1 Nuke concentrate?


Nope that should contain everything you need.


----------



## acoustic

I use Target distilled water and XT-1 Nuke Clear Concentrate and followed the 9:1 ratio. Seems to be working great for the last two months!


----------



## jincuteguy

acoustic said:


> I use Target distilled water and XT-1 Nuke Clear Concentrate and followed the 9:1 ratio. Seems to be working great for the last two months!



Nice. Is Target distilled water just as good as the Mayhem Ultra Pure H20?
I bought some ArrowHead distilled water from amazon. Are those good enough?


----------



## Section31

jincuteguy said:


> Isn't Mayhem XTR new? i don't see any review


Yes and None. Fluid is fluid


----------



## LiquidHaus

I trust EK's fluids more than most.

It's about the PREP WORK. So many people cannot figure it out correctly. This leads to... mistrust at times about fluids. 

I'm uneasy about EK's Mystic Fog. Suspended particulates are always risky. Their opaque fluids need more care, and swapping the opaques every 6-10 months is the key.

Translucent fluids are much more durable. EK's almost always end up leaving my loops APPEARING cleaner than they were before.

Distilled water with some of Mayhem's inhibitor is normally my go-to combo though. And much cheaper. Lasts indefinitely. 



I also got word that GoChiller is sending me their Graphene nanofluid. I'd like to do a comparison between it and Ice Dragon's own nanofluid.


----------



## jincuteguy

LiquidHaus said:


> I trust EK's fluids more than most.
> 
> It's about the PREP WORK. So many people cannot figure it out correctly. This leads to... mistrust at times about fluids.
> 
> I'm uneasy about EK's Mystic Fog. Suspended particulates are always risky. Their opaque fluids need more care, and swapping the opaques every 6-10 months is the key.
> 
> Translucent fluids are much more durable. EK's almost always end up leaving my loops APPEARING cleaner than they were before.
> 
> Distilled water with some of Mayhem's inhibitor is normally my go-to combo though. And much cheaper. Lasts indefinitely.
> 
> 
> 
> I also got word that GoChiller is sending me their Graphene nanofluid. I'd like to do a comparison between it and Ice Dragon's own nanofluid.


What do you mean it's all about the Prep work? Like flush and rinse before filling the loop?


----------



## dwolvin

Please post pics of the GoChiller stuff!


----------



## chibi

@LiquidHaus - can you go over your routine for rad/loop prep before filling? Just curious how others are doing things these days. I wish it was as easy as youtubers make it. Break open the seal and put it straight in the case from the retail packaging 🙄


----------



## LiquidHaus

dwolvin said:


> Please post pics of the GoChiller stuff!


I absolutely will! Also some detailed video on it's texture, viscosity, properties, etc.



jincuteguy said:


> What do you mean it's all about the Prep work? Like flush and rinse before filling the loop?





chibi said:


> @LiquidHaus - can you go over your routine for rad/loop prep before filling? Just curious how others are doing things these days. I wish it was as easy as youtubers make it. Break open the seal and put it straight in the case from the retail packaging 🙄


My process for ANY radiator that's fresh out of it's packaging is the same, but takes about 24-72 hours normally.

1. I do an overnight distilled white vinegar soak. I fill the entire radiator with nothing but distilled white vinegar. I plug the ports so that it doesn't evaporate.

2. I then get the tap going in the kitchen sink. Hottest water it can do. I have the hot tap water flush the vinegar out for a solid 30 minutes for each port (right port as inlet, then switch left port as inlet) for a total of 1 hour.

3. I hook up the radiator to a small test bed loop (single D5), and flush about 5-6 gallons of distilled water through it. Fresh distilled water into the radiator, then into the sink. No water is used twice in this stage.

4. I then plumb the loop back into itself with an inline filter system, usually a paper element fuel filter (no metals in the filter housing/element whatsoever) and run the loop for 24-48 hours. The filters always catch a ton of particulates.

5. One last distilled water flush after removal of the radiator from the test bed filter loop.

And that's it! I've been doing it for years, and I can't count how many systems I've built, nor how many radiators I've done this process to. Countless at this point. No fluid has failed me, and it's because of the prep work. Occasionally you'll get some acetal shavings in a few different company components, like a pump top or the like. That's the only sort of debris I'll find in loops after draining them. The most important key is making sure absolutely zero vinegar is remaining in the radiator after all the flushes.


Another note about the Graphene nanofluid is the theory that the real performance test will be before or after the Graphene should coat every part of the inside of the entire loop after a few heat cycles. Theoretically, once the graphene coats even the inside walls of the tubing, even the tubing would then act as a sort of a heatsink too. Not 100% sure, but I'm excited to see how it goes.


----------



## jincuteguy

LiquidHaus said:


> I absolutely will! Also some detailed video on it's texture, viscosity, properties, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My process for ANY radiator that's fresh out of it's packaging is the same, but takes about 24-72 hours normally.
> 
> 1. I do an overnight distilled white vinegar soak. I fill the entire radiator with nothing but distilled white vinegar. I plug the ports so that it doesn't evaporate.
> 
> 2. I then get the tap going in the kitchen sink. Hottest water it can do. I have the hot tap water flush the vinegar out for a solid 30 minutes for each port (right port as inlet, then switch left port as inlet) for a total of 1 hour.
> 
> 3. I hook up the radiator to a small test bed loop (single D5), and flush about 5-6 gallons of distilled water through it. Fresh distilled water into the radiator, then into the sink. No water is used twice in this stage.
> 
> 4. I then plumb the loop back into itself with an inline filter system, usually a paper element fuel filter (no metals in the filter housing/element whatsoever) and run the loop for 24-48 hours. The filters always catch a ton of particulates.
> 
> 5. One last distilled water flush after removal of the radiator from the test bed filter loop.
> 
> And that's it! I've been doing it for years, and I can't count how many systems I've built, nor how many radiators I've done this process to. Countless at this point. No fluid has failed me, and it's because of the prep work. Occasionally you'll get some acetal shavings in a few different company components, like a pump top or the like. That's the only sort of debris I'll find in loops after draining them. The most important key is making sure absolutely zero vinegar is remaining in the radiator after all the flushes.
> 
> 
> Another note about the Graphene nanofluid is the theory that the real performance test will be before or after the Graphene should coat every part of the inside of the entire loop after a few heat cycles. Theoretically, once the graphene coats even the inside walls of the tubing, even the tubing would then act as a sort of a heatsink too. Not 100% sure, but I'm excited to see how it goes.


So there's nothing wrong with those EK Cryofuel coolants then? Why ppl said they're the worst and I should not use them.


----------



## LiquidHaus

jincuteguy said:


> So there's nothing wrong with those EK Cryofuel coolants then? Why ppl said they're the worst and I should not use them.


Ignorance. Ignorance is why.


----------



## chibi

@LiquidHaus - awesome write up, appreciate your insight buddy. I think for my next build, I'm going to hold off on Blitzing and give the vinegar solution a try. Seems waaaay less caustic.


----------



## cptclutch

I've had some issues with my Mayhems XTR. Did the full blitz prep and my white fluid ended up turning blue and had some strange gooey chunks when I flushed it. Flushed with distilled and running another bottle of it, hoping this one works and I only had issues with not clearing out enough of the blitz cleaner properly the first time.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

What is with the popularity of EK's Mystic Fog? Am I the only one who thinks it looks like you filled your loop with jizz?


----------



## dwolvin

Nope- I helped a buddy but hard tube on his machine and he filled it up- I started laughing right away. It does look decent with RGB reflecting on it...


----------



## Shawnb99

LiquidHaus said:


> Ignorance. Ignorance is why.


So I’m ignorant and I caused this?










I find it very insulting to be blamed for this.
You’re welcome to use this crap, I sure won’t no matter how stupid or ignorant you think I am.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> So I’m ignorant and I caused this?
> 
> View attachment 2524221
> 
> 
> I find it very insulting to be blamed for this.
> You’re welcome to use this crap, I sure won’t no matter how stupid or ignorant you think I am.


Ouch. I actually just took apart my friends loop that was using mayhem x1 uv blue for 2years. Well the good news most everything is salvageable except for one end of one koolance qd3. Fittings including the oldest bitspower (five years chrome) are in perfect condition. Only issue is there blue residue left on fittings and reservoir but easy to clean, most likely from mayhem. 

The end result though is i now have too many fittings ordered/coming in (thought needed to replace them but most are in good shape).


----------



## dwolvin

Shawnb99 said:


> So I’m ignorant and I caused this?
> I find it very insulting to be blamed for this.
> You’re welcome to use this crap, I sure won’t no matter how stupid or ignorant you think I am.


It wasn't a personal attack, we were just debating setup techniques. I play pretty fast and loose, but use simple fluid. Liquid goes all out with a different technique and has had great success. That's all.


----------



## ciarlatano

Shawnb99 said:


> So I’m ignorant and I caused this?
> 
> 
> 
> I find it very insulting to be blamed for this.
> You’re welcome to use this crap, I sure won’t no matter how stupid or ignorant you think I am.


I was really restraining myself from responding to that "ignorance" remark....but, yeah, it was obnoxious and way off base. I know way too many experienced builders who prep their loops correctly that have never had an issue with any other coolant, then tried CryoFuel only to have it gunk up.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Hey, I don't have a problem apologizing with the ignorance comment.

Sorry about that! I didn't mean to offend nor insult. 

I'm sorry to those who have had bad luck with fluids. I grew up with the 'Be Prepared' slogan. I have always measured 12 times and cut once. I've also never had an issue with any fluid I've used. So my thought process is to prep everything as much as you can. I guess the mistake is my assumption that when people have an issue, it's because they missed something. Maybe it's just bad luck. But I simply have a really hard time siding with the bad luck rather than bad (or incorrect) prep.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

LiquidHaus said:


> Hey, I don't have a problem apologizing with the ignorance comment.
> 
> Sorry about that! I didn't mean to offend nor insult.
> 
> I'm sorry to those who have had bad luck with fluids. I grew up with the 'Be Prepared' slogan. I have always measured 12 times and cut once. I've also never had an issue with any fluid I've used. So my thought process is to prep everything as much as you can. I guess the mistake is my assumption that when people have an issue, it's because they missed something. Maybe it's just bad luck. But I simply have a really hard time siding with the bad luck rather than bad (or incorrect) prep.


I've been through quite a few builds in the last 6 or 7 years since I started using custom loops. Only once have I gotten actual bad fluid and I didn't catch it until after it wrecked my loop. That was not fun cleaning up. My prep process is very similar to yours. Fluids vary from batch to batch. It happens.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

A lot of YouTubers and builders have personal relationships with the EK reps and get free stuff in exchange for marketing so I take any praise with a grain of salt. I haven’t had any issues with their fluids gunking up my system but their Duraclear dissolves on contact with water, turns green, and clogs up my CPU block with plasticizer. Their rads are poorly constructed. Their Delta TEC is surprisingly well built though.

There is no compelling reason to use EK fluids when there are other options. EK behaves like a publicly traded company where every business decision is about profit, growth, cutting cost, and brand recognition. Companies like Mayhems and Optimus are the polar opposite. Every decision they make is about quality and word of mouth recommendation. It’s the same difference between McDonalds and In-N-Out Burger.


----------



## LiquidHaus

0451 said:


> A lot of YouTubers and builders have personal relationships with the EK reps and get free stuff in exchange for marketing so I take any praise with a grain of salt. I haven’t had any issues with their fluids gunking up my system but their Duraclear dissolves on contact with water, turns green, and clogs up my CPU block with plasticizer. Their rads are poorly constructed. Their Delta TEC is surprisingly well built though.


Ha! What if I told you that I'm pretty sure I've been blacklisted from them? They don't like me anymore lol and that's fine. I still like their Torque rotary fittings and their Torque soft tube compression fittings, as well as their fluids.

I'm a free agent with marketing other brands. EK didn't like me working with another brand so close to their home. They're entitled to their opinion, but they weren't paying me anyway. So how they handled it was pretty unprofessional in my opinion.


----------



## HyperMatrix

EK makes medium to medium-high grade products but prices them at elite grade prices. They're not terrible. They're just overpriced. There's no compelling reason to pick most of their stuff, although they do have a few stand out items. Yet they sell a lot due to marketing. People who know nothing about water cooling get in there and tell me they want to buy a bunch of stuff off the EK website without knowing anything about it. 

For example, this is their hideous and low quality reservoir compared to Aquacomputer or Optimus:

























I can't comment on their coolant as I've never used them and would generally not consider them. Liquidhaus probably has the highest level of usage and experience with various components and fluids and his information is valuable. However...his cleaning process is also far more stringent than the average person, to a point where I'd consider it excessive and unreasonable (although incredibly effective). So there's a possibility that something like the EK coolant could be perfect in his sterile loop environment whereas it's more sensitive to an average builder's slightly contaminated loop. And if other coolants like Mayhem's create something that is less prone to go bad in slightly less ideal circumstances, I think that would make them superior. However, we don't have any scientific evidence that points in that direction. All we have is some people having no problems, and some people having problems. And we can only come to a conclusion if we were to take each person at their word. But that's not exactly scientific. 

What we can probably say is that if you go through the steps that Liquidhaus laid out....then you should have no problem using EK fluids, or any other fluid. If you're like me though...you probably won't be doing that. And you may do something silly like use 2x the concentration of Mayhem's XT-1 as is required just to be on the safe side.


----------



## Section31

I have idea for optimus signature blocks, two tone colors. I just got back this from friend


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> I have idea for optimus signature blocks, two tone colors. I just got back this from friend
> 
> View attachment 2524300


Dude that's hideous lol


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, but if I remember that block it came in a bunch of colors you could mix and match.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Yeah, but if I remember that block it came in a bunch of colors you could mix and match.


Yeah it did. One of my failed experiments i didn't go through with. Ended up using EKWB Monoblock then went to Watercool CPU IV Black Nickel


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> EK makes medium to medium-high grade products but prices them at elite grade prices. They're not terrible. They're just overpriced. There's no compelling reason to pick most of their stuff, although they do have a few stand out items. Yet they sell a lot due to marketing. People who know nothing about water cooling get in there and tell me they want to buy a bunch of stuff off the EK website without knowing anything about it.
> 
> For example, this is their hideous and low quality reservoir compared to Aquacomputer or Optimus:
> View attachment 2524290
> 
> View attachment 2524291
> 
> View attachment 2524292
> 
> 
> I can't comment on their coolant as I've never used them and would generally not consider them. Liquidhaus probably has the highest level of usage and experience with various components and fluids and his information is valuable. However...his cleaning process is also far more stringent than the average person, to a point where I'd consider it excessive and unreasonable (although incredibly effective). So there's a possibility that something like the EK coolant could be perfect in his sterile loop environment whereas it's more sensitive to an average builder's slightly contaminated loop. And if other coolants like Mayhem's create something that is less prone to go bad in slightly less ideal circumstances, I think that would make them superior. However, we don't have any scientific evidence that points in that direction. All we have is some people having no problems, and some people having problems. And we can only come to a conclusion if we were to take each person at their word. But that's not exactly scientific.
> 
> What we can probably say is that if you go through the steps that Liquidhaus laid out....then you should have no problem using EK fluids, or any other fluid. If you're like me though...you probably won't be doing that. And you may do something silly like use 2x the concentration of Mayhem's XT-1 as is required just to be on the safe side.


My experience is the ultitube is slightly inferior to the heatkiller tube. Aquacomputer ultitube is easier to maintain versus watercool one but i feel the watercool one is more solid built. I don’t like how you have to push in the tube for the multi top (watercool is just screw in). That and look at my build, the multi top is literally in 45degree angle (not by design but to prevent leaking). I am waiting for optimus glass reservoir as i use d5 next.

Ultitube are however very well priced, especially in an combo unit with d5 pwm or d5 next. It’s only slightly more than barrows/bykski options but you get German brand.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

@LiquidHaus can you show us how you installed quick-disconnects onto the back of a case? I ordered a full blown MO-RA with the dual pump mount and Heatkiller res attachment and I want to be able to plug the quick disconnects into the case.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> My experience is the ultitube is slightly inferior to the heatkiller tube. Aquacomputer ultitube is easier to maintain versus watercool one but i feel the watercool one is more solid built. I don’t like how you have to push in the tube for the multi top (watercool is just screw in). That and look at my build, the multi top is literally in 45degree angle (not by design but to prevent leaking). I am waiting for optimus glass reservoir as i use d5 next.
> 
> Ultitube are however very well priced, especially in an combo unit with d5 pwm or d5 next. It’s only slightly more than barrows/bykski options but you get German brand.



I’m not sure what Ultitube you’re using but there’s no “push in” for the reservoir top or bottom. They both screw in. It’s made of 0.5cm thick glass, metal, and acetal. Construction is superb.

edit: looks like there was an older Ultitube design. The new ones that I'm using are called the "Ultitube Pro." That's comes with the pressure normalization membrane top. Both top and bottom are fully screwed on. No glass is ever pushed in anywhere.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I’m not sure what Ultitube you’re using but there’s no “push in” for the reservoir top or bottom. They both screw in. It’s made of 0.5cm thick glass, metal, and acetal. Construction is superb.
> 
> edit: looks like there was an older Ultitube design. The new ones that I'm using are called the "Ultitube Pro." That's comes with the pressure normalization membrane top. Both top and bottom are fully screwed on. No glass is ever pushed in anywhere.


Sorry for the confusion. I mean the inner tube of the mutltop if you want to use one of the multiports as outlet/inlet. The pro and non-pro difference is only the RGB ring. Construction is good but honestly i had more issues than with watercool unit, i had to screw it super tight as i found it was leaking during leak testing through the bottom and top seals. The end result is i have an multitop that looks incredibly odd angle. You can see here.











and by tube i talking this


----------



## LiquidHaus

0451 said:


> @LiquidHaus can you show us how you installed quick-disconnects onto the back of a case? I ordered a full blown MO-RA with the dual pump mount and Heatkiller res attachment and I want to be able to plug the quick disconnects into the case.


So I mainly stick with Koolance's QD3 series of quick disconnects due to their near-indestructible build quality and excellent craftsmanship. For how long they've had these fittings, I do find it amusing how many other companies have tried to emulate their success. The H line of the QD3 is what I use more purely out of preference, but the non H line has more fitting variants. For instance, G1/4 Male and Female Disconnects. 

For my EXT radiator stand setups, I end up using the QD3H barb variants mainly because I have an excess of them, but it's up to you on how you want to go about which variants to use, but I'm also utilizing their bulkhead passthrough feature, sometimes with an additional washer to increase surface mounting area.

Additional washer example:









Without washer:










I hope that helps ya!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> So I mainly stick with Koolance's QD3 series of quick disconnects due to their near-indestructible build quality and excellent craftsmanship. For how long they've had these fittings, I do find it amusing how many other companies have tried to emulate their success. The H line of the QD3 is what I use more purely out of preference, but the non H line has more fitting variants. For instance, G1/4 Male and Female Disconnects.
> 
> For my EXT radiator stand setups, I end up using the QD3H barb variants mainly because I have an excess of them, but it's up to you on how you want to go about which variants to use, but I'm also utilizing their bulkhead passthrough feature, sometimes with an additional washer to increase surface mounting area.
> 
> Additional washer example:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without washer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope that helps ya!


Thank you! Yes, that helps. I bought the same fittings used so I’m glad they come recommended.


----------



## iamjanco

I like the Koolance QDs as well, and haven't experienced any issues using them (both QD3s & QD4s). I've also not noticed any excessive pressure drops because of them, and finally am at the point where I can hook up the loop to that KPE/cpu combo I've been working on.

Backstory for those interested: troubleshot a flow problem that drove me up the wall for a while. Everytime I'd start up the pumps, flow would peak at about 1GPM, then drop to a fraction of that, regardless of which flow meter i had hooked up. Turns out the bitspower inline filters i had left in the loop were clogging up the works. Took them out, and flow bypassing the rads was about 2.1GPM, which dropped to 1.8GPM when i added the rads in series into the equation.





















You can see one of the inline filters in that third pic.

Mind you, that was running two Watercool pwm d5s in series without running a pwm signal to them. Didn't bother connecting the pwm lines to 5VDC (could be they were running at 60%, but I'd have to verify that to be sure).

I'll split the rads apart now that i know flow is working properly and run the loop dual pumps -> gpu block and rear block in series -> 1st rad -> cpu -> 2nd rad -> res. Once i power up the motherboard, i'll be able to verify if more can be squeezed out of the pump setup.

*Helpful hint for those new to the QDs: *make sure you depressurize the loops you're using QDs in before disconnecting/connecting them. Others report not doing so often leads to stuck seals/leaky QDs.

@ENTERPRISE : Just noted something a bit off about the alt texts accompanying attached images, E. All three of the above examples are off, as are those of @Section31 's last post before mine, and look to be driven by Vertical Dope's artificial unintelligence toward automotive stuff. An example screen cap follows:










About the only gas that's produced at this end of Al Gore's information stupidhighway is colorless (for the most part).

First time I noticed that (kinda funny, actually), but figured I'd mention it. Let me know if you want me to add a possible bug writeup to the bug writeup thread.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

iamjanco said:


> I like the Koolance QDs as well, and haven't experienced any issues using them (both QD3s & QD4s). I've also not noticed any excessive pressure drops because of them, and finally am at the point where I can hook up the loop to that KPE/cpu combo I've been working on.
> 
> Backstory for those interested: troubleshot a flow problem that drove me up the wall for a while. Everytime I'd start up the pumps, flow would peak at about 1GPM, then drop to a fraction of that, regardless of which flow meter i had hooked up. Turns out the bitspower inline filters i had left in the loop were clogging up the works. Took them out, and flow bypassing the rads was about 2.1GPM, which dropped to 1.8GPM when i added the rads in series into the equation.
> 
> View attachment 2524343
> View attachment 2524345
> View attachment 2524344
> 
> 
> You can see one of the inline filters in that third pic.
> 
> Mind you, that was running two Watercool pwm d5s in series without running a pwm signal to them. Didn't bother connecting the pwm lines to 5VDC (could be they were running at 60%, but I'd have to verify that to be sure).
> 
> I'll split the rads apart now that i know flow is working properly and run the loop dual pumps -> gpu block and rear block in series -> 1st rad -> cpu -> 2nd rad -> res. Once i power up the motherboard, i'll be able to verify if more can be squeezed out of the pump setup.
> 
> *Helpful hint for those new to the QDs: *make sure you depressurize the loops you're using QDs in before disconnecting/connecting them. Others report not doing so often leads to stuck seals/leaky QDs.


Where did you get the aluminum framing for your test bench? My Timber Grow Light came with it.


----------



## iamjanco

The smaller stuff the stand for the flowmeter and the text bench are made of is what's popularly known as extruded aluminum t-slot profiles, 2020 in those cases (which implies 20mmx20mm). I bought 100 feet of it three years back from a guy on ebay. The larger stuff used in the stand for the two MORA3 420s to the right (where pictured) was put together using 6030 extruded alu, made by a company called (oddly enough) *80/20*.

Obviously the stuff has a lot of practical purposes.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> So I mainly stick with Koolance's QD3 series of quick disconnects due to their near-indestructible build quality and excellent craftsmanship. For how long they've had these fittings, I do find it amusing how many other companies have tried to emulate their success. The H line of the QD3 is what I use more purely out of preference, but the non H line has more fitting variants. For instance, G1/4 Male and Female Disconnects.
> 
> For my EXT radiator stand setups, I end up using the QD3H barb variants mainly because I have an excess of them, but it's up to you on how you want to go about which variants to use, but I'm also utilizing their bulkhead passthrough feature, sometimes with an additional washer to increase surface mounting area.
> 
> Additional washer example:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without washer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope that helps ya!


Perhaps I'm missing something but how exactly does the bulkhead passthrough work?


----------



## iamjanco

0451 said:


> Perhaps I'm missing something but how exactly does the bulkhead passthrough work?
> View attachment 2524362



While you might be able to rig something up to be a passthrough panel fitting using your fittings (check with @LiquidHaus), they are not true passthrough panel fittings. *These are*:










Note the nut that fits the larger threaded end of the fitting which is used to secure the fitting to a panel. 

What you've got shown in your image are simple quick disconnects, geared toward inserting a break somewhere between the two ends of a hose.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

iamjanco said:


> While you might be able to rig something up to be a passthrough panel fitting using your fittings (check with @LiquidHaus), they are not true passthrough panel fittings. *These are*:
> 
> View attachment 2524364
> 
> 
> Note the nut that fits the larger threaded end of the fitting which is used to secure the fitting to a panel.
> 
> What you've got shown in your image are simple quick disconnects, geared toward inserting a break somewhere between the two ends of a hose.


Thank you! Could I thread a pair of those into this panel bracket, then use normal compression fittings inside the case?

Computer L-Bracket (Double Panel-Mount) G 1/4 BSPP Threads (koolance.com)


----------



## iamjanco

You could, but keep in mind that in the case of threaded parts they work like nuts and screws (an oversimplified example; don't know how knowledgeable you are). The QD that I used as an example above only has a 1/4 bspp female threaded connection and you would need a 'barrel' like coupling/adapter/extension to mate the two female ends together. The external thread on that QD is strictly designed for the larger M18 panel securing nut that it ships with.

Another example, a female 1/4 bspp connection will be threaded internally, and will only mate up with another part that has a 1/4 bspp male connection (threaded externally). You can also mate parts having two different threads using threaded adapters (e.g., an npt female connection mated up to a bspp male connection; *the combinations can be rather numerous*).

*Koolance carries such adapters* as well.

Hope that's not too confusing.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> So I mainly stick with Koolance's QD3 series of quick disconnects due to their near-indestructible build quality and excellent craftsmanship. For how long they've had these fittings, I do find it amusing how many other companies have tried to emulate their success. The H line of the QD3 is what I use more purely out of preference, but the non H line has more fitting variants. For instance, G1/4 Male and Female Disconnects.
> 
> For my EXT radiator stand setups, I end up using the QD3H barb variants mainly because I have an excess of them, but it's up to you on how you want to go about which variants to use, but I'm also utilizing their bulkhead passthrough feature, sometimes with an additional washer to increase surface mounting area.
> 
> Additional washer example:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without washer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope that helps ya!


I actually had one qd3 that technically broken lol. 2 Years old. Provide pictures later


----------



## CluckyTaco

Quick question, my new 3080Ti has a GPU hotspot on the PWR4 module. The delta between GPU core and PWR4 module is like 8C during TimeSpy stress test. Am I within the limits for the optimus block or should I reinstall it? It's a big hassle really to take out the card plus redoing the LM and block so wanted to ask before I waste my time.


----------



## Section31

Interesting, we now have our first China brand block that costs as much as the Optimus, Techn, Aquacomputer with Display









Granzon Advanced CPU Block With Temperature Display For Intel Lga115x/1200/2011/2066 & AMD Ryzen3/5/7/9/ThreadRipper, Water Cooling Cooler GAIS / GAMS


Buy Granzon Advanced CPU Block With Temperature Display For Intel Lga115x/1200/2011/2066 & AMD Ryzen3/5/7/9/ThreadRipper, Water Cooling Cooler GAIS / GAMS and FormulaMod, Bykski, GPU Water Block, WaterCooling, etc.




www.formulamod.com





Even the 90Degree Rotary are on the high side 









Granzen 45° 90° Rotatable Fittings, G1/4 45 90 Degrees Adapter With 360° Rotating Base GD-45 GD-90


Buy Granzen 45° 90° Rotatable Fittings, G1/4 45 90 Degrees Adapter With 360° Rotating Base GD-45 GD-90 and FormulaMod, Bykski, GPU Water Block, WaterCooling, etc.




www.formulamod.com


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> Interesting, we now have our first China brand block that costs as much as the Optimus, Techn, Aquacomputer with Display
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granzon Advanced CPU Block With Temperature Display For Intel Lga115x/1200/2011/2066 & AMD Ryzen3/5/7/9/ThreadRipper, Water Cooling Cooler GAIS / GAMS
> 
> 
> Buy Granzon Advanced CPU Block With Temperature Display For Intel Lga115x/1200/2011/2066 & AMD Ryzen3/5/7/9/ThreadRipper, Water Cooling Cooler GAIS / GAMS and FormulaMod, Bykski, GPU Water Block, WaterCooling, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.formulamod.com



I hope it performs well...because obviously you’re not buying it for it’s looks. Lol.


----------



## Shawnb99

HyperMatrix said:


> I hope it performs well...because obviously you’re not buying it for it’s looks. Lol.


It’s ugly isn’t it. The Reddit crowd will eat it up.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I hope it performs well...because obviously you’re not buying it for it’s looks. Lol.


It’s a lot to gamble on. At least optimus we know what we are getting.


----------



## Section31

Anyone knows what happened to this Koolance QD3


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2524433
> 
> View attachment 2524434
> 
> 
> Anyone knows what happened to this Koolance QD3


I have about 20 like that. Repeated Ultrasonic and connect/disconnect cycles should eventually free it up.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2524433
> 
> View attachment 2524434
> 
> 
> Anyone knows what happened to this Koolance QD3


It was opened without equalizing the pressure in the loop. Had mine do that multiple times.
You can either push in the little pins holding that piece up or should be able to get to go down by sealing the other end and just hitting it, I think. Even awhile since I’ve had to do that
I know it’s fixable and has no adverse affect on the QDC so it can be used again, once fixed of course


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> It was opened without equalizing the pressure in the loop. Had mine do that multiple times.
> You can either push in the little pins holding that piece up or should be able to get to go down by sealing the other end and just hitting it, I think. Even awhile since I’ve had to do that
> I know it’s fixable and has no adverse affect on the QDC so it can be used again, once fixed of course


Thanks. worked


----------



## geriatricpollywog

iamjanco said:


> You could, but keep in mind that in the case of threaded parts they work like nuts and screws (an oversimplified example; don't know how knowledgeable you are). The QD that I used as an example above only has a 1/4 bspp female threaded connection and you would need a 'barrel' like coupling/adapter/extension to mate the two female ends together. The external thread on that QD is strictly designed for the larger M18 panel securing nut that it ships with.
> 
> Another example, a female 1/4 bspp connection will be threaded internally, and will only mate up with another part that has a 1/4 bspp male connection (threaded externally). You can also mate parts having two different threads using threaded adapters (e.g., an npt female connection mated up to a bspp male connection; *the combinations can be rather numerous*).
> 
> *Koolance carries such adapters* as well.
> 
> Hope that's not too confusing.


Only part that’s confusing is that the part you liked has external threads, yet it’s “female threaded.” I thought external threads were male.

Also, would teflon tape be required to seal the threads to keep water from leaking out?


----------



## HyperMatrix

0451 said:


> Only part that’s confusing is that the part you liked has external threads, yet it’s “female threaded.” I thought external threads were male.
> 
> Also, would teflon tape be required to seal the threads to keep water from leaking out?


You can get QD3s as both male or female, and as either compression fitting or g1/4 threaded.


----------



## JustinThyme

I have mine half compression and half G 1/4 with everything internal plumbed up to the pass though with G1/4 and hardline then G 1/4 QD3 outside. What runs to the Mora of course are compression. Nice fittings.


----------



## Section31

Three QD3 Going into this also. There is GPU block but letting my friend do that install himself.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Thanks for sharing. Is that the Watercool pass-through bracket?

PCI Slot Durchführung für Montage externer Radiatoren, 19,95 € (watercool.de)


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Thanks for sharing. Is that the Watercool pass-through bracket?
> 
> PCI Slot Durchführung für Montage externer Radiatoren, 19,95 € (watercool.de)


Yes. This is one of those rare cases where it actually worth using the thing. It makes perfect drain port/qdc location.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Yes. This is one of those rare cases where it actually worth using the thing. It makes perfect drain port/qdc location.


Do you know if they sell those in North America? I don't want to spend 30 EUR a third time buying from the Watercool web shop. I might have to anyway since I ordered the 100mm Heatkiller Konfigurator res instead of the 200mm.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Do you know if they sell those in North America? I don't want to spend 30 EUR a third time buying from the Watercool web shop. I might have to anyway since I ordered the 100mm Heatkiller Konfigurator res instead of the 200mm.


Dazmode. If you order hasn’t shipped contact markus to add to your order. No need to pay extra shipping


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Dazmode. If you order hasn’t shipped contact markus to add to your order. No need to pay extra shipping


It's too late. What sucks is that had I ordered everything together instead of on 2 orders, I would have met the minimum for free shipping.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> It's too late. What sucks is that had I ordered everything together instead of on 2 orders, I would have met the minimum for free shipping.


Happens. Lesson learned for next time


----------



## Shawnb99

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1436360746745544704


----------



## JustinThyme

0451 said:


> Do you know if they sell those in North America? I don't want to spend 30 EUR a third time buying from the Watercool web shop. I might have to anyway since I ordered the 100mm Heatkiller Konfigurator res instead of the 200mm.


Yes they do. I got mine here








PCI Slot Pass-Through Bracket


Connect external components like a MO-RA radiator to your internal cooling loop with this simple pass-through bracket. There are two standardized G1/4'' ports on both sides of the bracket. These are compatible with all usual fittings and quick disconnects with a male G1/4'' thread.




www.performance-pcs.com





I also got all my MORA 420 stuff from PPCs. They are my go to in North America and Duke there knows me on a first name basis so I always get a nice discount even if they arent having any promos or sales and always free shipping.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

JustinThyme said:


> Yes they do. I got mine here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PCI Slot Pass-Through Bracket
> 
> 
> Connect external components like a MO-RA radiator to your internal cooling loop with this simple pass-through bracket. There are two standardized G1/4'' ports on both sides of the bracket. These are compatible with all usual fittings and quick disconnects with a male G1/4'' thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also got all my MORA 420 stuff from PPCs. They are my go to in North America and Duke there knows me on a first name basis so I always get a nice discount even if they arent having any promos or sales and always free shipping.


Nice. When people were giving him a hard time about customer support you were probably busy building relationships.

I can order the pass-through from PPCs but what I really need from Watercool is a 200mm Heatkiller tube. I accidentally ordered the 100mm version. Not to be a size queen, but I think a 100mm will look inadequate bolted to a Mora. I doubt PPCs carries 200mm Heatkiller tubes.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Nice. When people were giving him a hard time about customer support you were probably busy building relationships.
> 
> I can order the pass-through from PPCs but what I really need from Watercool is a 200mm Heatkiller tube. I accidentally ordered the 100mm version. Not to be a size queen, but I think a 100mm will look inadequate bolted to a Mora. I doubt PPCs carries 200mm Heatkiller tubes.


Things happen. 

1. I just had to order in one new motherboard (friend mobo he bought used) was dead. Thankfully it was part of combo involving 10900k, 16gb ram for 300cad. RMA the old one and figure what to do with it.

2. The d5 next literally went crazy randomly while retighting fittings (came loose and leak). Old D5 Next. It started making clicking noise (menu button scrolling). That and its bottom plastic housing fell out. The bottom plastic housing part was easily fixable. The oled controller works but the noise is annoying. No warantee so new pump


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Things happen.
> 
> 1. I just had to order in one new motherboard (friend mobo he bought used) was dead. Thankfully it was part of combo involving 10900k, 16gb ram for 300cad. RMA the old one and figure what to do with it.
> 
> 2. The d5 next literally went crazy randomly while retighting fittings (came loose and leak). Old D5 Next. It started making clicking noise (menu button scrolling). That and its bottom plastic housing fell out. The bottom plastic housing part was easily fixable. The oled controller works but the noise is annoying. No warantee so new pump


Ouch. I have two D5 Next arriving tomorrow. I hope the electronics are more reliable than my German car.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Ouch. I have two D5 Next arriving tomorrow. I hope the electronics are more reliable than my German car.


Should be fine. Its unpredictable what happens (generally user fault).


----------



## elbramso

Shawnb99 said:


> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1436360746745544704


Getting closer! Nice!
I ordered the block on July 29, 2021, I wonder if I'm receiving first batch. Anyways, it will take ages to ship to Germany...


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Should I do 3/8" (10mm) or 1/2" (13mm) ID tubing to Mora? The inlet and outlet tubing will be 10' long so I'm not sure if the wider bandwidth of the 1/2" tubing will be beneficial when the pumps have a larger volume of water to push.


----------



## HyperMatrix

elbramso said:


> Getting closer! Nice!
> I ordered the block on July 29, 2021, I wonder if I'm receiving first batch. Anyways, it will take ages to ship to Germany...


Depends what time you ordered. By around 3am MST on July 29th there were only around 10-15 orders. At around 4:30am they sent out mass emails to everyone to notify about the release of the card. By the end of the day, they had dozens if not over 100 orders. So depending on when you ordered it, you may or may not be in the first batch. Also shipping to Germany shouldn’t be that slow if you picked UPS Worldwide Express. Generally 1-3 days.


----------



## elbramso

HyperMatrix said:


> Depends what time you ordered. By around 3am MST on July 29th there were only around 10-15 orders. At around 4:30am they sent out mass emails to everyone to notify about the release of the card. By the end of the day, they had dozens if not over 100 orders. So depending on when you ordered it, you may or may not be in the first batch. Also shipping to Germany shouldn’t be that slow if you picked UPS Worldwide Express. Generally 1-3 days.


*ORDER #OP5215*
July 29, 2021 03:14AM

It's either position #15 or #215


----------



## HyperMatrix

elbramso said:


> *ORDER #OP5215*
> July 29, 2021 03:14AM
> 
> It's either position #15 or #215


I’m 5214. So looks like you’re good. I’m 8th in line.


----------



## jincuteguy

What do you guys think about the DDc PUmp that comes with the EKWB Distro G1 plate for the Lian Li 011 XL? Should I get the Front distro plate with the D5 instead? Have everything from Optimus WC to start the build


----------



## Shawnb99

HyperMatrix said:


> I’m 5214. So looks like you’re good. I’m 8th in line.


I'm 5209. How do we know our place in line?


----------



## Biggu

jincuteguy said:


> What do you guys think about the DDc PUmp that comes with the EKWB Distro G1 plate for the Lian Li 011 XL? Should I get the Front distro plate with the D5 instead? Have everything from Optimus WC to start the build


IMO always go with a D5 pump.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> I'm 5209. How do we know our place in line?


Because their website advertises the last X amount of orders made including who made a purchase and what they bought and at what time. So that’s night I just wrote them down to see where I was on the list.


----------



## Section31

I will do some more testing on optimus vs competition block soon. Have to test out friends aquacomputer strix block


----------



## Shawnb99

HyperMatrix said:


> Because their website advertises the last X amount of orders made including who made a purchase and what they bought and at what time. So that’s night I just wrote them down to see where I was on the list.


So I'm #3 then?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> So I'm #3 then?


You were either 2nd or 3rd from what I recall seeing that night.


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> I will do some more testing on optimus vs competition block soon. Have to test out friends aquacomputer strix block


I had Aquacomputer Titan Xp block with active backplate. My opinion is that the quality and fitment is not great when compared to other German brands. There was noticeable gaps on my memory ic since they use direct contact method. Same for the provided thermal pads and vrm contact areas. The active VRM backplate did perform well, but the pipe did not sit in the backplate correctly and required manual bending.

Overall, from that experience I would not buy another Aquacomputer GPU block. Heatkiller will always be known for good quality. Just waiting on Opt GPU block to try out for next build.


----------



## iamjanco

HyperMatrix said:


> You were either 2nd or 3rd from what I recall seeing that night.


Guess I'm 3rd or 4th then, right behind Shawn.



Spoiler: eye candy


----------



## chibi

Like a made scientist, I love it! Especially those rotameters. I want to implement one into a build one of these days.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> I had Aquacomputer Titan Xp block with active backplate. My opinion is that the quality and fitment is not great when compared to other German brands. There was noticeable gaps on my memory ic since they use direct contact method. Same for the provided thermal pads and vrm contact areas. The active VRM backplate did perform well, but the pipe did not sit in the backplate correctly and required manual bending.
> 
> Overall, from that experience I would not buy another Aquacomputer GPU block. Heatkiller will always be known for good quality. Just waiting on Opt GPU block to try out for next build.


Friend was an strix and watercool is not an option. Optimus costs too much, they aren't as big budget as me


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Like a made scientist, I love it! Especially those rotameters. I want to implement one into a build one of these days.


We both should have gotten 3090Kingpin. It only costed 2700Cad or so for it had we got it before April.


----------



## jincuteguy

Just checked Optimus WC website and they have 0 D5 pumps available, everything is Sold Out.


----------



## Section31

jincuteguy said:


> Just checked Optimus WC website and they have 0 D5 pumps available, everything is Sold Out.


it happens. Lot of D5 Pumps sold out in all of North America


----------



## Section31

For those in Canada, I am going to place order with McMaster Carr for some replacement caster wheels for caselabs cases. If there something else you need, maybe can ship it together


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> For those in Canada, I am going to place order with McMaster Carr for some replacement caster wheels for caselabs cases. If there something else you need, maybe can ship it together


Do they sell those little grommets rubber thingys that go on the flex bays and anything mounted to the front? If so I'll take a bunch


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Do they sell those little grommets rubber thingys that go on the flex bays and anything mounted to the front? If so I'll take a bunch


Tell me if they do


----------



## Shawnb99

I'll see if I can figure out what ones they are.

On a sadder note I may not be able to mount the KPE vertically now. The EK mounts don't support their active backplate so chances are they support Optimus's are slim. Since no other mount works it looks like I'll have to keep it horizontal.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> I'll see if I can figure out what ones they are.
> 
> On a sadder note I may not be able to mount the KPE vertically now. The EK mounts don't support their active backplate so chances are they support Optimus's are slim. Since no other mount works it looks like I'll have to keep it horizontal.


Why not just get a generic PCIe riser cable and run it to the bottom of your case?


----------



## Shawnb99

HyperMatrix said:


> Why not just get a generic PCIe riser cable and run it to the bottom of your case?


Don't think the card fits in the mount with the active backplate. I'll have to see when I get it and if it can't be modded to fit it.









It looks like I'll have to cut out that part at least.


----------



## jincuteguy

So I just got some EK torque fittings for hardline, and they look cheap compare to my Bitspower and Optimus fittings.


----------



## Section31

jincuteguy said:


> So I just got some EK torque fittings for hardline, and they look cheap compare to my Bitspower and Optimus fittings.


Optimus hardline looks way. Most of us are waiting for optimus rotary 90 and extenders. The 90 Rotary from Bitspower have been quite troublesome for me. I am done with bitspower for my personal build going forward.


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> Friend was an strix and watercool is not an option. Optimus costs too much, they aren't as big budget as me





Section31 said:


> We both should have gotten 3090Kingpin. It only costed 2700Cad or so for it had we got it before April.


I would personally go with EK block for the Strix over Aquacomputer. During April I was not looking to upgrade computer so didn't even think to order the KPE. Prices have gone insane since then and it was definitely worth it then compared to now. But still, what an item is worth is dependent on the buyer so if someone wants one even today, they will get it regardless of price.


----------



## asdf893

HyperMatrix said:


> I’m 5214. So looks like you’re good. I’m 8th in line.


I thought I was early but looks like I'm way behind!
*ORDER #OP5269*
July 29, 2021 08:34AM


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> I would personally go with EK block for the Strix over Aquacomputer. During April I was not looking to upgrade computer so didn't even think to order the KPE. Prices have gone insane since then and it was definitely worth it then compared to now. But still, what an item is worth is dependent on the buyer so if someone wants one even today, they will get it regardless of price.


That the joys of watercooling. Personal preference. I think market is cooling down so don’t heavily go in looking to break even


----------



## jincuteguy

Section31 said:


> Optimus hardline looks way. Most of us are waiting for optimus rotary 90 and extenders. The 90 Rotary from Bitspower have been quite troublesome for me. I am done with bitspower for my personal build going forward.


Yea I'm wondering why Optimus is so slow with their production. Maybe they need to invest in more machines


----------



## Section31

jincuteguy said:


> Yea I'm wondering why Optimus is so slow with their production. Maybe they need to invest in more machines


I think they are. It's not cut and dry when it comes in business sense. You can't expand factory all the time without making sure your capital situation is managable under bad economic down turns.


----------



## Biggu

jincuteguy said:


> Yea I'm wondering why Optimus is so slow with their production. Maybe they need to invest in more machines


I mean I know they stated they have expanded but also its not that simple. The accuracy of machine they are using does not come cheap at all. Though I guess you have to spend money to make money.


----------



## chibi

How many $400 GPU blocks do you need to sell to make a ROI of ~$300K of equipment? Lets say they net 30% margin each block after out sourcing, overhead, employee wages etc. Then you factor in each batch takes 4-5 weeks to produce? I wouldn't be all gung ho to invest into more equipment especially in such a niche market of high end water cooling.

As a smaller startup piggy backing onto a main company, it's not as easy as 1 2 3 blocks magically appear, or "investing" into more machines.


----------



## JustinThyme

0451 said:


> Nice. When people were giving him a hard time about customer support you were probably busy building relationships.
> 
> I can order the pass-through from PPCs but what I really need from Watercool is a 200mm Heatkiller tube. I accidentally ordered the 100mm version. Not to be a size queen, but I think a 100mm will look inadequate bolted to a Mora. I doubt PPCs carries 200mm Heatkiller tubes.


You can order just the tube. That’s one thing I like about the heat killer res. You can order every part separately. Tops, bottoms, struts, mounts etc.
I think the 200mm is too much. I have the 420 and went with the 150 and two inlet top. Just enough to get out of the top of the rad and into the res. 200 I think will leave the top sitting above it. Here’s the 420 with a 150 res.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

JustinThyme said:


> You can order just the tube. That’s one thing I like about the heat killer res. You can order every part separately. Tops, bottoms, struts, mounts etc.


Would PPCs carry a 150mm tube and struts or would I have to order from Germany?


----------



## JustinThyme

JustinThyme said:


> You can order just the tube. That’s one thing I like about the heat killer res. You can order every part separately. Tops, bottoms, struts, mounts etc.


The 200 on


0451 said:


> Would PPCs carry a 150mm tube and struts or would I have to order from Germany?



They may. Have a peek. They carry a lot surprisingly and if all fails call Duke Ext 201 or shoot him an email [email protected].









Watercool HEATKILLER® Tube - Spare Parts - Glass Tube 150mm


HEATKILLER® Tube - Spare Parts - Glass Tube 150mm




www.performance-pcs.com





raw aluminum struts









Watercool HEATKILLER® Tube - struts 150mm - raw aluminum


Our colored interchangeable struts are a easy way to customize your HEATKILLER® Tube Series reservoir. The struts are made from solid aluminum. The colored versions have a high end anodically oxidized finish. Delivery includes four struts. One of them is designed to hold a LED strip...




www.performance-pcs.com





Red struts









Watercool HEATKILLER® Tube - struts 150mm - red


Our colored interchangeable struts are a easy way to customize your HEATKILLER® Tube Series reservoir. The struts are made from solid aluminum. The colored versions have a high end anodically oxidized finish. Delivery includes four struts. One of them is designed to hold a LED strip...




www.performance-pcs.com





Blue struts









Watercool HEATKILLER® Tube - struts 150mm - blue


Our colored interchangeable struts are a easy way to customize your HEATKILLER® Tube Series reservoir. The struts are made from solid aluminum. The colored versions have a high end anodically oxidized finish. Delivery includes four struts. One of them is designed to hold a LED strip...




www.performance-pcs.com





Looks like they are out of stock on the black.

I’m gonna have to hit up Duke for my commission.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

JustinThyme said:


> The 200 on
> 
> 
> 
> They may. Have a peek. They carry a lot surprisingly and if all fails call Duke Ext 201 or shoot him an email [email protected].
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watercool HEATKILLER® Tube - Spare Parts - Glass Tube 150mm
> 
> 
> HEATKILLER® Tube - Spare Parts - Glass Tube 150mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> raw aluminum struts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watercool HEATKILLER® Tube - struts 150mm - raw aluminum
> 
> 
> Our colored interchangeable struts are a easy way to customize your HEATKILLER® Tube Series reservoir. The struts are made from solid aluminum. The colored versions have a high end anodically oxidized finish. Delivery includes four struts. One of them is designed to hold a LED strip...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com


Thanks! I’ll see how it looks with the 100mm tube when everything arrives tomorrow.


----------



## JustinThyme

I’m keeping the 200 in my rig though.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

JustinThyme said:


> I’m keeping the 200 in my rig though.
> View attachment 2524924


It looks good in your case, but I found a picture of a 200mm res mounted to a MO-RA3 420 and it’s definitely too tall. I think 100 or 150 will look better.


Reddit - watercooling - For when you need ALL the cooling....

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/inahev


----------



## JustinThyme

Yeah its too tall for a 420 and ridiculously too tall on a 360. The 100 may not be as bad as you think but IMO a 150 on the 420 is perfect and damn near too tall. I have just enough room to work in a hard line elbow into the top. I got the two inlet top for it so it will be sealed up for the most part and leave the res in my rig for filling. Im actually going to pull the 9X140s and just use 200mm on both sides so I only have 8 fans to run instead of 13. Put a quadro over there with one channel going to a splitty for the fans and a channel each for the two pumps so I can stagger speeds and maybe ill add another 200 to blow on me during the summer LOL. 

Im canning two of the rads in the rig, the 480 on the bottom and the 360 in the front, both EK. Then move the HW labs GTR 420 to the basement with push pull 140x6 and a 140 in the front and back of the basement to help pulling that exhaust out. Pull the GTS360 from the middle and put it up front and put the sold basement partition back in. Then the QL fans will be exhausting out the front and 3 in the top pulling in fresh air to my ram and VRM sink and another 140 in the back to pull more air in and Ill still have a crap load of 140s left over. Theres 3 up in the top now, have 9 in the MORA Im going to pull and 3 more still in boxes never opened. All Noctua Industrial PWM. I might throw 4 up top for giggles where you can't see them (above where the 420 is now) pushing even more air in.


----------



## Section31

Playi


JustinThyme said:


> Yeah its too tall for a 420 and ridiculously too tall on a 360. The 100 may not be as bad as you think but IMO a 150 on the 420 is perfect and damn near too tall. I have just enough room to work in a hard line elbow into the top. I got the two inlet top for it so it will be sealed up for the most part and leave the res in my rig for filling. Im actually going to pull the 9X140s and just use 200mm on both sides so I only have 8 fans to run instead of 13. Put a quadro over there with one channel going to a splitty for the fans and a channel each for the two pumps so I can stagger speeds and maybe ill add another 200 to blow on me during the summer LOL.
> 
> Im canning two of the rads in the rig, the 480 on the bottom and the 360 in the front, both EK. Then move the HW labs GTR 420 to the basement with push pull 140x6 and a 140 in the front and back of the basement to help pulling that exhaust out. Pull the GTS360 from the middle and put it up front and put the sold basement partition back in. Then the QL fans will be exhausting out the front and 3 in the top pulling in fresh air to my ram and VRM sink and another 140 in the back to pull more air in and Ill still have a crap load of 140s left over. Theres 3 up in the top now, have 9 in the MORA Im going to pull and 3 more still in boxes never opened. All Noctua Industrial PWM. I might throw 4 up top for giggles where you can't see them (above where the 420 is now) pushing even more air in.


Playing with my friend 10900k really makes appreciate intel overclock element. I don’t like Amd PBO Curve Optimization/Asus Auto OC feature.


----------



## JustinThyme

Yeah I'm not much for AMD at this time. Mr fox just posted up the first 5GHz submission of 8 of 16 cores for a 5950X, the other 8 at 4.8 GHz. I dont like auto anything. I learned that quick like on a 10980XE when I let it run auto and about crapped my pants when I saw a 1.414Vcore and it thermal throttled on first run. Turned that crap off quick. Ill take my 5.1 with 1.350 Vcore but dont run it 24x7 like that. Daily usage I stay at 4.7 GHz and have the rest of the profiles saved for when I want to go batsheet. gets into the 90s at 5.1 even with my overkill loop. It stays in the mid 70s at 4.7GHz and will cross into the low 80s at 4.8GHz and in CB23 its a 500 point reduction. Good enough for my daily use and a nice cool core.

I might change up next build and see who has what in a couple of years. Im thinking sapphire rapids time frame with 40XX GPUs.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah I'm not much for AMD at this time. Mr fox just posted up the first 5GHz submission of 8 of 16 cores for a 5950X, the other 8 at 4.8 GHz. I dont like auto anything. I learned that quick like on a 10980XE when I let it run auto and about crapped my pants when I saw a 1.414Vcore and it thermal throttled on first run. Turned that crap off quick. Ill take my 5.1 with 1.350 Vcore but dont run it 24x7 like that. Daily usage I stay at 4.7 GHz and have the rest of the profiles saved for when I want to go batsheet. gets into the 90s at 5.1 even with my overkill loop. It stays in the mid 70s at 4.7GHz and will cross into the low 80s at 4.8GHz and in CB23 its a 500 point reduction. Good enough for my daily use and a nice cool core.
> 
> I might change up next build and see who has what in a couple of years. Im thinking sapphire rapids time frame with 40XX GPUs.


Indeed. Makes me excited to jump back to intel asap. Be it HEDT or 10nm Consumer platform


----------



## Section31

The twin together


----------



## dng25

Don't think I'm ever going to find Caselabs SMA8 pedestal might just go with a mora instead.


----------



## JustinThyme

dng25 said:


> Don't think I'm ever going to find Caselabs SMA8 pedestal might just go with a mora instead.


I gave up on caselabs when they gave up. They blamed it on the price of steel for the cases coming from China after a tariff was put on them. I think it was more than that. My problem was too many options with no guidance of what you needed to make it work for you. When I finally figured that out a year later they abandoned ship.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah its too tall for a 420 and ridiculously too tall on a 360. The 100 may not be as bad as you think but IMO a 150 on the 420 is perfect and damn near too tall. I have just enough room to work in a hard line elbow into the top. I got the two inlet top for it so it will be sealed up for the most part and leave the res in my rig for filling. Im actually going to pull the 9X140s and just use 200mm on both sides so I only have 8 fans to run instead of 13. Put a quadro over there with one channel going to a splitty for the fans and a channel each for the two pumps so I can stagger speeds and maybe ill add another 200 to blow on me during the summer LOL.
> 
> Im canning two of the rads in the rig, the 480 on the bottom and the 360 in the front, both EK. Then move the HW labs GTR 420 to the basement with push pull 140x6 and a 140 in the front and back of the basement to help pulling that exhaust out. Pull the GTS360 from the middle and put it up front and put the sold basement partition back in. Then the QL fans will be exhausting out the front and 3 in the top pulling in fresh air to my ram and VRM sink and another 140 in the back to pull more air in and Ill still have a crap load of 140s left over. Theres 3 up in the top now, have 9 in the MORA Im going to pull and 3 more still in boxes never opened. All Noctua Industrial PWM. I might throw 4 up top for giggles where you can't see them (above where the 420 is now) pushing even more air in.


I couldn’t imagine going back to internal rads now. This is actually replacing 5 small rads.

I’m surprised you are going to 200mm fans for the MO-RA. It seems like 9 x 140 would perform better. I’d like to see a pic of your MO-RA setup.

The 100mm Heatkiller tube is taller than I expected and I think I’ll keep it.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I gave up on caselabs when they gave up. They blamed it on the price of steel for the cases coming from China after a tariff was put on them. I think it was more than that. My problem was too many options with no guidance of what you needed to make it work for you. When I finally figured that out a year later they abandoned ship.


The trick was ordering for max radiator/airflow. Limited Glass/Acrylic. Thats what i did for mine. If i did sma8a it was only glass side door and luminous panel. Rest is vented, buy the vertical gpu option with extended top and max rad support.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Did someone say external radiators?


----------



## iamjanco

^nice photography (and work)!

try fitting this in a case (a couple of older pix):


----------



## Section31

For those talking about fittings comparisons, ultimate soft tube comparison. BP, Barrows, Optimus, EKWB


----------



## dwolvin

And then Optimus hardline by itself?


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> And then Optimus hardline by itself?


I had comparison on that months ago. Now that i got rid of everything but the optimus fittings can’t do it


----------



## dwolvin

Fair enough! I'm using old Phobya soft tube fittings, love how simple they look. But I'm hoping to move to Optimus next round, just need to decide hard or soft.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Fair enough! I'm using old Phobya soft tube fittings, love how simple they look. But I'm hoping to move to Optimus next round, just need to decide hard or soft.


Optimus fittings are the best but they can eat up lot of your budget


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> they can eat up lot of your budget


What is that?


----------



## Shawnb99

Fans are one of if not the biggest part of my budget. Fittings are likely a close second


----------



## iamjanco

What's a budget?

😁


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> Did someone say external radiators?


Have you ever used copper or pre-bent glass tubing?


----------



## LiquidHaus

0451 said:


> Have you ever used copper or pre-bent glass tubing?


Copper I tried a few times back when Monsoon first launched their V1 Economy fittings. Didn't really have the right materials to bending for today's standards lol though I've never taken the time to try it out again. I'm sure I will within the next year.

As for glass, I was VERY close to buying some from McMaster recently. I even wanted to try crystal tubing since they have that too. I need a cleaner and more dedicated space to try stuff out like that though. Most of the work space that I have is shared with me and my lady's pups so I always gotta be careful. Hopefully we'll be at a point to finally buy a house next year. Finger's crossed! Then it's gonna be time to get crazy with trying out different things and finally having the space to do it.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Copper I tried a few times back when Monsoon first launched their V1 Economy fittings. Didn't really have the right materials to bending for today's standards lol though I've never taken the time to try it out again. I'm sure I will within the next year.
> 
> As for glass, I was VERY close to buying some from McMaster recently. I even wanted to try crystal tubing since they have that too. I need a cleaner and more dedicated space to try stuff out like that though. Most of the work space that I have is shared with me and my lady's pups so I always gotta be careful. Hopefully we'll be at a point to finally buy a house next year. Finger's crossed! Then it's gonna be time to get crazy with trying out different things and finally having the space to do it.


I looked at glass tubing too. I don’t trust myself with preventing glass dust so didnt go through with it


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> Copper I tried a few times back when Monsoon first launched their V1 Economy fittings. Didn't really have the right materials to bending for today's standards lol though I've never taken the time to try it out again. I'm sure I will within the next year.
> 
> As for glass, I was VERY close to buying some from McMaster recently. I even wanted to try crystal tubing since they have that too. I need a cleaner and more dedicated space to try stuff out like that though. Most of the work space that I have is shared with me and my lady's pups so I always gotta be careful. Hopefully we'll be at a point to finally buy a house next year. Finger's crossed! Then it's gonna be time to get crazy with trying out different things and finally having the space to do it.


Mayhems has pre-bent glass. I want to use glass or copper for 2 runs on my Mo-RA: pump to res and res to rad. I just can’t find pre-bent copper and I don’t know how to cut glass.

If you want to experiment with glass, here is some inspiration for your next build: ground glass fittings. For lighting, use old fashioned Edison-style incandescent instead of LED.


----------



## JustinThyme

iamjanco said:


> What's a budget?
> 
> 😁


It’s that thing that creeps up on you when you have champagne dreams but can only afford cheap beer. In some cases the phrase “disposable income” is removed from your vocabulary when you have a wife and kids. That’s one of the reasons I waited so long to get married and have kids. Got the wild a$$ out of me, became financially stable and my kids college was paid for before they were born. My oldest was born when I was 38 and 1 semester shy of finishing up college. My son hates school and decided he wanted to be a Marine instead. I just had to have a rude discussion with his recruiter who was trying to push him into Infantry with a 96 on his ASVAB. I have no qualms about his decision. I just wanted him to come out with a trade. He’s in school now for heavy equipment mechanic that will provide much more income down the road then learning how to yell ooooh rahhh kill kill kill and shoot a rifle. As for his college fund, well that $80K got shifted into my 401K so he did me a favor. I saw so many and still see it getting married too soon and having kids when they can barely feed themselves. Then there’s the ones living in Moms basement at 30.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> It’s that thing that creeps up on you when you have champagne dreams but can only afford cheap beer. In some cases the phrase “disposable income” is removed from your vocabulary when you have a wife and kids. That’s one of the reasons I waited so long to get married and have kids. Got the wild a$$ out of me, became financially stable and my kids college was paid for before they were born. My oldest was born when I was 38 and 1 semester shy of finishing up college. My son hates school and decided he wanted to be a Marine instead. I just had to have a rude discussion with his recruiter who was trying to push him into Infantry with a 96 on his ASVAB. I have no qualms about his decision. I just wanted him to come out with a trade. He’s in school now for heavy equipment mechanic that will provide much more income down the road then learning how to yell ooooh rahhh kill kill kill and shoot a rifle. As for his college fund, well that $80K got shifted into my 401K so he did me a favor. I saw so many and still see it getting married too soon and having kids when they can barely feed themselves. Then there’s the ones living in Moms basement at 30.


I love the comparison between typical american households and asian ones. Topics like yours leads to interesting discussions


----------



## iamjanco

Careful with the stereotypical; depending on your audience, it has the potential to trigger in a way similar to asking "what's a budget?"

😁


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I love the comparison between typical american households and asian ones. Topics like yours leads to interesting discussions


Yeah different strokes for different folks. I’m well traveled, to the point it’s easier to name countries I haven’t been to than those that I have. Some just ooze cash. Go to Saudi. A $200K Mercedes engine locks up because they didn’t bother changing the oil and it’s abandoned on the side of the road, they just go buy a new one…then you have the other end in places like Indonesia where most haven’t ever seen a television and work for 5 cents a day. There are different cultures and some adapt to where they are regardless of where there roots started and others do not. I think the worst cultural difference I’ve had in my neighborhood was a much older Indian man for some reason found pleasure going for a walk in the morning when the kids were at the bus stop. Not that going for a walk is a bad thing but he always carried a cane but didn’t use it to walk with. He would turn it sideways behind his back and go plowing through a pack of young children with the mindset that I’m sure is a cultural thing. He’s an elder and it’s his sidewalk and they should clear out of his way when he comes. Well one day his cane hit the wrong kid in the head, MINE. My wife came running home with him bleeding from his ear. The next day I went to the bus stop instead of my wife. Sure enough here he came and went to pull his usual stunt and I grabbed the cane and sent it flying off into the woods. Got up in his face and told him if he ever comes back out on the sidewalk while the kids are out there again I’ll take his cane and beat the crap out of him with it! This is how we do things in America, Understand? He didn’t utter a word and he didn’t come out while the kids were there anymore either.


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> Did someone say external radiators?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: vertical compression


So I've been meaning to ask you whether you'd mind sharing what sort of lighting you've got in your bag of photographic tricks. I enjoy your product shots.



JustinThyme said:


> Yeah different strokes for different folks. I’m well traveled, to the point it’s easier to name countries I haven’t been to than those that I have. Some just ooze cash. Go to Saudi. A $200K Mercedes engine locks up because they didn’t bother changing the oil and it’s abandoned on the side of the road, they just go buy a new one…then you have the other end in places like Indonesia where most haven’t ever seen a television and work for 5 cents a day. There are different cultures and some adapt to where they are regardless of where there roots started and others do not. I think the worst cultural difference I’ve had in my neighborhood was a much older Indian man for some reason found pleasure going for a walk in the morning when the kids were at the bus stop. Not that going for a walk is a bad thing but he always carried a cane but didn’t use it to walk with. He would turn it sideways behind his back and go plowing through a pack of young children with the mindset that I’m sure is a cultural thing. He’s an elder and it’s his sidewalk and they should clear out of his way when he comes. Well one day his cane hit the wrong kid in the head, MINE. My wife came running home with him bleeding from his ear. The next day I went to the bus stop instead of my wife. Sure enough here he came and went to pull his usual stunt and I grabbed the cane and sent it flying off into the woods. Got up in his face and told him if he ever comes back out on the sidewalk while the kids are out there again I’ll take his cane and beat the crap out of him with it! This is how we do things in America, Understand? He didn’t utter a word and he didn’t come out while the kids were there anymore either.


I can relate to that, though I'm anything but your typical American. Far more _old school, _which could imply a whole lot of things.



0451 said:


> Mayhems has pre-bent glass. I want to use glass or copper for 2 runs on my Mo-RA: pump to res and res to rad. I just can’t find pre-bent copper and I don’t know how to cut glass.
> 
> If you want to experiment with glass, here is some inspiration for your next build: ground glass fittings. For lighting, use old fashioned Edison-style incandescent instead of LED.
> View attachment 2525148


Now that's the kind of stuff I like (flesh out an idea):










make it happen:


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> I love the comparison between typical american households and asian ones. Topics like yours leads to interesting discussions


This brings me flashbacks of when I was a kid and I tagged along with my mom when she visited her Asian friend. Her friend would spend hours talking about how expensive her shampoo is, or go through the Land Rover catalog page by page explaining to my lower middle class mom all the options she was ordering for her new SUV. That family was EXACTLY like the rich family from Parasite.


----------



## Shawnb99

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1438894443487105027









cerakote


CERAKOTE ULTRA-PREMIUM COATING FOUNDATION RYZEN CPU BLOCK Extreme performance, crack-proof acrylic, corrosion-proof nickel and bulletproof construction. We are pleased to announce we are moving to Cerakote! Cerakote is an ultra-premium ceramic coating that will replace all our nickel and...




optimuspc.com


----------



## dwolvin

Very nice! I wonder if it will change heat transfer at all..?

Oh- higher thermal conductivity!? Excellent!


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, yes, we're moving to cerakote! It'll replace all our nickel and anodizing. We'll be doing it entirely in-house. Cerakote is a really exciting material, super hard, super corrosion resistant, and it looks amazing. Lots more info here: cerakote


----------



## Shawnb99

When can I expect a signature block in it?


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> When can I expect a signature block in it?


Soon. What color?


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Soon. What color?


What are my options?
How soon?


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1438894443487105027
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cerakote
> 
> 
> CERAKOTE ULTRA-PREMIUM COATING FOUNDATION RYZEN CPU BLOCK Extreme performance, crack-proof acrylic, corrosion-proof nickel and bulletproof construction. We are pleased to announce we are moving to Cerakote! Cerakote is an ultra-premium ceramic coating that will replace all our nickel and...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> optimuspc.com


we need to rebuy everything then?


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, yes, we're moving to cerakote! It'll replace all our nickel and anodizing. We'll be doing it entirely in-house. Cerakote is a really exciting material, super hard, super corrosion resistant, and it looks amazing. Lots more info here: cerakote
> 
> View attachment 2525203
> View attachment 2525204
> 
> 
> View attachment 2525205


Can we exchange our current stuff for them?


----------



## Optimus WC

Colors are matte white, matte black and satin nickel Cerakote. We'll also do bright aluminum to match the brackets and fittings, etc. 

We can't take items back and recoat them because Cerakote is a very specialized process that, for our product, must be done on the raw material right after it has been made. We will offer replacement parts: if someone wants a white midplate for a block, or rear heatsink or replacement fitting caps.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Soon. What color?


I am tempted now. How will it effect the reservoir out of curiousity.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Colors are matte white, matte black and satin nickel Cerakote. We'll also do bright aluminum to match the brackets and fittings, etc.
> 
> We can't take items back and recoat them because Cerakote is a very specialized process that, for our product, must be done on the raw material right after it has been made. We will offer replacement parts: if someone wants a white midplate for a block, or rear heatsink or replacement fitting caps.


Thats's good to know. Any idea on pricing


----------



## Optimus WC

Reservoir pump bottoms will be in the new colors -- everything will have the new colors as soon as we can  For res bottoms, the only visual difference will be the white. 

That said, we will also do acrylics in Cerakote, so the pump caps, pump interface between tube and bottom, etc.


----------



## Optimus WC

Cerakote is a more expensive process than anodizing or nickel, but we're aiming ot keep the price the same. Except white cerakote, that will have a slight upcharge because it has to be done twice in order to get a perfect white look.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Colors are matte white, matte black and satin nickel Cerakote. We'll also do bright aluminum to match the brackets and fittings, etc.
> 
> We can't take items back and recoat them because Cerakote is a very specialized process that, for our product, must be done on the raw material right after it has been made. We will offer replacement parts: if someone wants a white midplate for a block, or rear heatsink or replacement fitting caps.


Can I see pictures of the colours? I’ll likely go with satin nickel. When can I order a block?


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Cerakote is a more expensive process than anodizing or nickel, but we're aiming ot keep the price the same. Except white cerakote, that will have a slight upcharge because it has to be done twice in order to get a perfect white look.


If so, i would be interested in the sig v2 pump top,


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Can I see pictures of the colours? I’ll likely go with satin nickel. When can I order a block?


Lets order together lol.


----------



## tbrown7552

Optimus, Is there no possibility for polished nickel KPE now?


----------



## Optimus WC

tbrown7552 said:


> Optimus, Is there no possibility for polished nickel KPE now?


That is correct, the bright nickel (except on cold plates) will be replaced by the new Cerakote finishes.


----------



## tbrown7552

Optimus WC said:


> That is correct, the bright nickel (except on cold plates) will be replaced by the new Cerakote finishes.


Is there any way to pay extra to get it? Im not really a fan of the cerakote and i have a polished nickel foundation cpu block already.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

That’s too bad, the bright nickel gave Optimus blocks that Cadillac look. Will you still offer the dull nickel on the visible side of waterblocks?


----------



## Antykain

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, yes, we're moving to cerakote! It'll replace all our nickel and anodizing. We'll be doing it entirely in-house. Cerakote is a really exciting material, super hard, super corrosion resistant, and it looks amazing. Lots more info here: cerakote
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Cerakote
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2525203
> View attachment 2525204
> 
> 
> View attachment 2525205


Very nice! I was looking at pulling the trigger on a Optimus 3080 FTW3 water block as soon as they were available again, but I am going to hold out for these.. A well done Cerakote job is hand down better looking (imo) than the traditional anodize/nickel finish we are used to seeing.. I have a few of my 'pew-pews' that have custom cerakote jobs. Lookin' forward to this!


----------



## Optimus WC

Nope, nickel is gone (except on cold plates), so all Cerakote from here on out. Nickel must be done right, but it's inferior chemically to ceramics. We want to be able to do 100% of production in-house and nickel must be at external plants because of the chemicals and process.

Regarding matching with CPU blocks, the cold plates stay the same across all products, so the black GPU block now will match the black CPU blocks. Also, our satin nickel matches our signature nickel. The only product we had that was a shiny nickel was the GPUs. Thus didn't match anything else 

For example:


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Wait, so you will offer satin nickel?


----------



## Optimus WC

0451 said:


> Wait, so you will offer satin nickel?


Correct, satin nickel, not a shiny bright nickel. So the GPU blocks are changing from shiny to satin. 

This is Cerakote in "Satin Nickel" -- made to look like all our other satin nickel products:


----------



## Shawnb99

I love the look of the Sig2 block but that black looks like it’ll look amazing with XTR white fluid.
Going to be hard picking a colour


----------



## Antykain

Shawnb99 said:


> I love the look of the Sig2 block but that black looks like it’ll look amazing with XTR white fluid.
> Going to be hard picking a colour


I was kinda thinkthing the same.. Satin black with the white fluid. This is the way..


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I love the look of the Sig2 block but that black looks like it’ll look amazing with XTR white fluid.
> Going to be hard picking a colour


Same here


----------



## CantingSoup

Will you be offering Cerakote cold plates (if it's possible)?


----------



## Rei86

Optimus WC said:


> Correct, satin nickel, not a shiny bright nickel. So the GPU blocks are changing from shiny to satin.
> 
> This is Cerakote in "Satin Nickel" -- made to look like all our other satin nickel products:
> 
> View attachment 2525236


How custom is Cerakote-ing in the PC world?
Would love it if I could get parts in Cold War Grey to match my BRO lol


----------



## Edge0fsanity

For those of us that ordered the Kingpin block on day 1, how long do we have to make a choice on finish? I think I'm right around #30 in line. I have a build on hold right now while I figure out colors, had mostly been waiting on the KP finishing options. Going to take me a bit to figure this out.


----------



## elbramso

Optimus WC said:


> Nope, nickel is gone (except on cold plates), so all Cerakote from here on out. Nickel must be done right, but it's inferior chemically to ceramics. We want to be able to do 100% of production in-house and nickel must be at external plants because of the chemicals and process.
> 
> Regarding matching with CPU blocks, the cold plates stay the same across all products, so the black GPU block now will match the black CPU blocks. Also, our satin nickel matches our signature nickel. The only product we had that was a shiny nickel was the GPUs. Thus didn't match anything else
> 
> For example:
> 
> View attachment 2525225
> View attachment 2525226
> View attachment 2525231
> 
> 
> View attachment 2525227
> 
> 
> View attachment 2525229
> 
> View attachment 2525233


The black KPE block looks amazing! That's how I want mine 😊


----------



## HyperMatrix

elbramso said:


> The black KPE block looks amazing! That's how I want mine 😊


Yeah I'm trying to figure out who I have to bribe to get me one of those black ones. Will look amazing with clear liquid.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


>


Any chance of doing blocks with glass instead of plexi? I absolutely hate plexi.


----------



## Optimus WC

Edge0fsanity said:


> For those of us that ordered the Kingpin block on day 1, how long do we have to make a choice on finish? I think I'm right around #30 in line. I have a build on hold right now while I figure out colors, had mostly been waiting on the KP finishing options. Going to take me a bit to figure this out.


You want your block delayed? That is no problem 



HyperMatrix said:


> Yeah I'm trying to figure out who I have to bribe to get me one of those black ones. Will look amazing with clear liquid.


Easy  The choices for Kingpin are white, black or nickel-look Cerakote. 



HyperMatrix said:


> Any chance of doing blocks with glass instead of plexi? I absolutely hate plexi.


Nope, glass can't be used like that, it'd require all kinds of special holes and contours that is virtually impossible with any equipment out there -- glass is good for unbroken slabs, but not for parts like this


----------



## Optimus WC

CantingSoup said:


> Will you be offering Cerakote cold plates (if it's possible)?


Nope, so it's not really possible to Cerakote cold plates. Cerakoting requires a sand-blast step that would ruin the cold plates -- or simply not work with the tiny fins. We have ideas for other things in the future, but the only two options for the near future is nickel or copper. 




Rei86 said:


> How custom is Cerakote-ing in the PC world?
> Would love it if I could get parts in Cold War Grey to match my BRO lol


We'll most likely be doing special edition runs of custom colors. Once we really have this expanded, we'll get feedback on who wants what and then plan it out. Most likely it'll be a one-time thing, like custom gold for all parts, but can only be ordered this one time, rather than a permanent in-stock item.


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> We'll most likely be doing special edition runs of custom colors


Black and Gold or Black and Silver!


----------



## Optimus WC

Shawnb99 said:


> Black and Gold or Black and Silver!


Black and silver you can do now  Just mix and match parts. The black and gold would be super special edition, like a crazy custom Kingpin with custom paint or something. But that's for another time.


----------



## chibi

Nice update! I'm going to feel like a pleb with the standard nickel Strix block next week... hah. 😄


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> The black and gold would be super special edition, like a crazy custom Kingpin with custom paint or something. But that's for another time.


Now is a great time. I’ll take a Black and Gold one


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Nice update! I'm going to feel like a pleb with the standard nickel Strix block next week... hah. 😄


You, me, Shawnb99 can order replacement parts together lol


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Now is a great time. I’ll take a Black and Gold one


I will take one too for CPU Block though


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Nope, so it's not really possible to Cerakote cold plates. Cerakoting requires a sand-blast step that would ruin the cold plates -- or simply not work with the tiny fins. We have ideas for other things in the future, but the only two options for the near future is nickel or copper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We'll most likely be doing special edition runs of custom colors. Once we really have this expanded, we'll get feedback on who wants what and then plan it out. Most likely it'll be a one-time thing, like custom gold for all parts, but can only be ordered this one time, rather than a permanent in-stock item.


Count me in also for special run for cpu block top.


----------



## Optimus WC

Special Edition is next year stuff  Shipping Kingpins is first, then expanding Cerakote to the rest of the products is next, all while increasing production and releasing all the items we've been behind on making (90s, pump brackets, etc).


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> You, me, Shawnb99 can order replacement parts together lol


Yup, I'm in for Black Sig v2 top 



Optimus WC said:


> Special Edition is next year stuff  Shipping Kingpins is first, then expanding Cerakote to the rest of the products is next, all while increasing production and releasing all the items we've been behind on making (90s, pump brackets, etc).


Hey you forgot crud free rads!


----------



## Optimus WC

chibi said:


> Yup, I'm in for Black Sig v2 top
> 
> 
> 
> Hey you forgot crud free rads!


Black sigs will be sooner than later  Rads will be later than sooner.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Black sigs will be sooner than later  Rads will be later than sooner.


Put me down for Sig V2 black also. Easy shipping since the three of us are in the same region.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Special Edition is next year stuff  Shipping Kingpins is first, then expanding Cerakote to the rest of the products is next, all while increasing production and releasing all the items we've been behind on making (90s, pump brackets, etc).


Can't wait for those 90s, etc.


----------



## LiquidHaus

So stoked with how this is going!


----------



## Rei86

Optimus WC said:


> We'll most likely be doing special edition runs of custom colors. Once we really have this expanded, we'll get feedback on who wants what and then plan it out. Most likely it'll be a one-time thing, like custom gold for all parts, but can only be ordered this one time, rather than a permanent in-stock item.


LoL looking forward too it.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> So stoked with how this is going!


Its going to be part of the v3000+ project lol


----------



## iamjanco

Optimus WC said:


> Special Edition is next year stuff  Shipping Kingpins is first...


Thanks for the update. Any idea when you'll start shipping the KPE blocks?


----------



## dng25

iamjanco said:


> Thanks for the update. Any idea when you'll start shipping the KPE blocks?
> 
> View attachment 2525258



They did say announcement this week and possible shipping next week 


__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1436360746745544704


----------



## iamjanco

^now that you mention it, I did see that. next week according to that tweet.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Optimus WC said:


> You want your block delayed? That is no problem


Noooooo, I'll go with black. How do we let you guys know which option we want with our order?


----------



## Section31

The ceramic white top though would look nice on this build im working on. Three caselabs over one month. Future candidate for Optimus GPU (ceramic white).Optimus foundation block and d5 pump inside


----------



## Shawnb99

white would be a nice colour but hard part is finding quality fans to match. Phantec need to make a white version of their fans


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> white would be a nice colour but hard part is finding quality fans to match. Phantec need to make a white version of their fans


In this case its lianli sl120 white and arctic p12 white


----------



## Qzrx

Optimus WC said:


> Black sigs will be sooner than later  Rads will be later than sooner.


There is only one small, quick question that myself and a lot of other hardcore SFF’ers need to know: will there be 30mm thick options for the radiators?


----------



## Optimus WC

Qzrx said:


> There is only one small, quick question that myself and a lot of other hardcore SFF’ers need to know: will there be 30mm thick options for the radiators?


Waaaay too early for rads  We know what we want to do, but there is a lot involved before we get there. Then we'll discuss  But yeah we're big into sff, so it'll be a focus in the future.


----------



## Qzrx

Optimus WC said:


> Waaaay too early for rads  We know what we want to do, but there is a lot involved before we get there. Then we'll discuss  But yeah we're big into sff, so it'll be a focus in the future.


Great to hear and looking forward to seeing what comes about!


----------



## CluckyTaco

How would a cerakote foundation block look like since it's clearly mentioned that the cold plates will not be changed? I have an Intel foundation block with acrylic and satin black and would like to know what are my options with regards to cerakote. I'm planning to delid my CPU in the future which is why I'm asking.


----------



## CluckyTaco

Never mind. I found the response I needed after wading through twitter.

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1438897607191846914So it makes no sense for me to change anything on my foundation block as the cold plate isn't changing.


----------



## chibi

Hey @Optimus WC - I'm sure a lot of us want the best performance when given the option. With that said, any forecast to bring active backplates to the FTW3/Strix lineup?


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Hey @Optimus WC - I'm sure a lot of us want the best performance when given the option. With that said, any forecast to bring active backplates to the FTW3/Strix lineup?


I wonder if its still needed. We are 1.5yrs away from next gen gpu. Though my build interest got bigger knowing caselabs is possibly coming back.


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> I wonder if its still needed. We are 1.5yrs away from next gen gpu. Though my build interest got bigger knowing caselabs is possibly coming back.


Active backplate needed? Nah, probably not. But do I still want it anyways for the 0.01% min/maxing? Heck yeah brother, Optimus take my money!


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Active backplate needed? Nah, probably not. But do I still want it anyways for the 0.01% min/maxing? Heck yeah brother, Optimus take my money!


Yup. That news of caselabs return caught my attention. Might be the end of v3000+ idea when i can get an caselabs again. Maybe an larger s8 that supports 480-560mm rads or Gemini


----------



## chibi

Yea I saw the thread, wishing all the best to m-oll, I might get a spare S8 with the exact specs I want + some spare accessories if it goes live. After using S8S, SMA8 and S3, I think the S8 would have been the best in terms of size and rad capacity.

Throw in a ped and you have monster cooling potential.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Section31 said:


> Yup. That news of caselabs return caught my attention. Might be the end of v3000+ idea when i can get an caselabs again. Maybe an larger s8 that supports 480-560mm rads or Gemini


Got a link to that news? I'll forget about any build in the v3000+ if they're coming back.


----------



## iamjanco

Edge0fsanity said:


> Got a link to that news? I'll forget about any build in the v3000+ if they're coming back.


At this point in time it's not a "they," it's a he ( @M-oll ), who's supposedly finalizing the purchase of certain CaseLabs IP after the Bankruptcy Judge signed off on it. Seems earnest enough about what he'd like to do, but it also sounds like he's got a bit of a longer road to travel before he gets there. 

If you're keen on knowing more of what he's shared thus far, have a look at his *recent post history*. Nowhere has he made any promises yet.


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> At this point in time it's not a "they," it's a he ( @M-oll ), who's supposedly finalizing the purchase of certain CaseLabs IP after the Bankruptcy Judge signed off on it. Seems earnest enough about what he'd like to do, but it also sounds like he's got a bit of a longer road to travel before he gets there.
> 
> If you're keen on knowing more of what he's shared thus far, have a look at his *recent post history*. Nowhere has he made any promises yet.


It might be long road but for those of us with caselabs its not super urgent to change cases


----------



## elbramso

Edge0fsanity said:


> Noooooo, I'll go with black. How do we let you guys know which option we want with our order?


Yes, how is the process here?


----------



## Shawnb99

elbramso said:


> Yes, how is the process here?


We will get an email before it’s ready to ship asking our colour choices


----------



## criskoe

Is it normal for optimus blocks to lose pressure very slowly? I changed out my scratched acetal top for a clear acrylic top and was pressure testing it after assembling it. No mater how many times I re assemble the block it has a very very slow air leak. Loses .01 bar every few hours so its not large leak. But is leaking air.

Im 100% sure my tester is leak free. I just tested the tester alone for 30 hours strait at a full 1 bar and it lost zero pressure. So using the same fittings I just changed out the plugged splitter fitting at the end for the block. Ive tried resembling the block multiple times and is very tight. If I tighten screws anymore the screws WILL strip for sure. Its tight. And I'm testing the block at a much lower .62 bar and it just wont hold pressure indefinitely. Leaks very slowly. My EK and Heatkiller blocks of the past would hold extended pressure tests forever fine.

Anyone else notice this?


----------



## M-oll

iamjanco said:


> At this point in time it's not a "they," it's a he ( @M-oll ), who's supposedly finalizing the purchase of certain CaseLabs IP after the Bankruptcy Judge signed off on it. Seems earnest enough about what he'd like to do, but it also sounds like he's got a bit of a longer road to travel before he gets there.
> 
> If you're keen on knowing more of what he's shared thus far, have a look at his *recent post history*. Nowhere has he made any promises yet.


Well, I am kind of a "we" since I have some external help but I am the one that bought the IP with my own money. As external advisors I have a mechanical engineer and an industrial designer, one person involved in customer support / social media management and one person involved in logistics, "warehousing" and distribution. There is also a person in the team of advisors that I would describe as a jack-of-all trades with knowledge in the world of PC building and watercooling (he has also worked at a big Swedish retailer of computer parts). I myself has studied to become a industrial engineer / designer before I switched to social sciences. The manufacturers that I've looked at all have decades of experience in this type of field so that will also be a big plus. 

So yeah, I have some way to go before anyone can buy a new CaseLabs' case, but hopefully the combined experience between me, my advisors and my manufacturer will shorten that way _considerably _once I actually have ownership of the designs, trademark etc.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

criskoe said:


> Is it normal for optimus blocks to lose pressure very slowly? I changed out my scratched acetal top for a clear acrylic top and was pressure testing it after assembling it. No mater how many times I re assemble the block it has a very very slow air leak. Loses .01 bar every few hours so its not large leak. But is leaking air.
> 
> Im 100% sure my tester is leak free. I just tested the tester alone for 30 hours strait at a full 1 bar and it lost zero pressure. So using the same fittings I just changed out the plugged splitter fitting at the end for the block. Ive tried resembling the block multiple times and is very tight. If I tighten screws anymore the screws WILL strip for sure. Its tight. And I'm testing the block at a much lower .62 bar and it just wont hold pressure indefinitely. Leaks very slowly. My EK and Heatkiller blocks of the past would hold extended pressure tests forever fine.
> 
> Anyone else notice this?
> 
> View attachment 2525489


Have the same problem with my intel foundation block earlier this year. Have not put it back in a loop. Prior to pulling it from my loop it had a very slow leak and fluid got onto the pcie slot for my gpu, fortunately no damage. Disassembled a few times now, always has a slow leak.


----------



## criskoe

Edge0fsanity said:


> Have the same problem with my intel foundation block earlier this year. Have not put it back in a loop. Prior to pulling it from my loop it had a very slow leak and fluid got onto the pcie slot for my gpu, fortunately no damage. Disassembled a few times now, always has a slow leak.


Oh wow. Have you ever contacted Optimus about it? When I did recently, they said that they have never had leak issues. Said most likely im seeing an artifact of air vs liquid and how EPDM o-rings seal vs other materials.

Visually my block looks fine. No cracks on the plexi. Orings are not cracked and seem ok. Just cant get it to fully seal air tight which seems weird as ive seen cheapo blocks hold air fine. Maybe its ever so slightly warped? 

Im really on the fence if putting this in the loop is a good idea. And now reading your comment has me even more concerned. 

What block are you running then? I have a EK magintude which is fine and seals properly but unfortunately cant run direct die cause the block frame is too chonky and it contacts the caps near the MB socket. So I have been running a copper IHS for the last while. I got this optimus block cause it can clear the caps so I can finally ditch the copper IHS. Also to match my optimus FTW3 block.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

criskoe said:


> Oh wow. Have you ever contacted Optimus about it? When I did recently, they said that they have never had leak issues. Said most likely im seeing an artifact of air vs liquid and how EPDM o-rings seal vs other materials.
> 
> Visually my block looks fine. No cracks on the plexi. Orings are not cracked and seem ok. Just cant get it to fully seal air tight which seems weird as ive seen cheapo blocks hold air fine. Maybe its ever so slightly warped?
> 
> Im really on the fence if putting this in the loop is a good idea. And now reading your comment has me even more concerned.
> 
> What block are you running then? I have a EK magintude which is fine and seals properly but unfortunately cant run direct die cause the block frame is too chonky and it contacts the caps near the MB socket. So I have been running a copper IHS for the last while. I got this optimus block cause it can clear the caps so I can finally ditch the copper IHS. Also to match my optimus FTW3 block.


Earlier this year I switched my main gaming PC from a 10850k to a 5950x. So I switched blocks from the intel foundation to amd foundation. I've never taken my amd foundation apart and never had an issue with it. The intel block has 0 issues with the gaskets visually, I see no damage to them. But always with that real slow leak with the leak tester. I do plan to get my intel system back into a loop at some point, I think before I do this I'm going to put that block into a temp loop with no hardware and run it for a couple of weeks to see if it leaks.


----------



## dwolvin

criskoe said:


> Is it normal for optimus blocks to lose pressure very slowly? I changed out my scratched acetal top for a clear acrylic top and was pressure testing it after assembling it. No mater how many times I re assemble the block it has a very very slow air leak. Loses .01 bar every few hours so its not large leak. But is leaking air.
> 
> Im 100% sure my tester is leak free. I just tested the tester alone for 30 hours strait at a full 1 bar and it lost zero pressure. So using the same fittings I just changed out the plugged splitter fitting at the end for the block. Ive tried resembling the block multiple times and is very tight. If I tighten screws anymore the screws WILL strip for sure. Its tight. And I'm testing the block at a much lower .62 bar and it just wont hold pressure indefinitely. Leaks very slowly. My EK and Heatkiller blocks of the past would hold extended pressure tests forever fine.
> 
> Anyone else notice this?


Put the block flat and put a few drops in, then pressurize. You'll see where it's coming out. and if it holds at .5 bar, it should be good to go (there is almost no pressure in a system if you have a res). If there is still a leak, check the flatness on the top on a good surface if you can, and really inspect the channel and o-ring (biggest culprit). GL!


----------



## Biggu

dwolvin said:


> Put the block flat and put a few drops in, then pressurize. You'll see where it's coming out. and if it holds at .5 bar, it should be good to go (there is almost no pressure in a system if you have a res). If there is still a leak, check the flatness on the top on a good surface if you can, and really inspect the channel and o-ring (biggest culprit). GL!


Yea I feel I recall some one else had the same issue and it basicly came down to tolerances and tightening down the top to the plate.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Just realized I need longer screws for mounting res's in my new build since the mounting brackets are thick. Anyone know what the thread pitch is for the mounting screws on optimus res's?


----------



## criskoe

dwolvin said:


> Put the block flat and put a few drops in, then pressurize. You'll see where it's coming out. and if it holds at .5 bar, it should be good to go (there is almost no pressure in a system if you have a res). If there is still a leak, check the flatness on the top on a good surface if you can, and really inspect the channel and o-ring (biggest culprit). GL!





Biggu said:


> Yea I feel I recall some one else had the same issue and it basicly came down to tolerances and tightening down the top to the plate.


Optimus said they test their blocks at 20 PSI (1.378 Bar) So I was at first testing the block at .9 bar when I discovered it had a very slow leak. After countless disassembles and reassembles and tightening the top and bottom as tight as possible to the point of almost stripping the screws. I then just tried a lower .6 bar and it still slowly leaks. Ive inspected it the best I can with the naked eye. The only thing that looks interesting is it looks like the cold plate fins are actually making contact with the center of the of the acrylic top. Just around the center gasket in the corners, you can actually see little fin marks in the plexi top. But at this point there isnt anything else I can do except for epoxying the thing closed. lol 

I really wish optimus had normal customer service chat or ticket system like every other company. Going back n forth a email a day and hoping they respond, makes speaking to them about issues so dam lengthy and annoying.


----------



## criskoe

Different subject. Anyone know what bits the coldplate screws on the gpu blocks are? They almost look round LOL. And the screws are so dam close to being stripped on my block that Im so scared to touch them until I can get replacements from optimus. Why are they so dam tiny? No way you can get them real tight with out stripping them.
.


----------



## dwolvin

Gotcha, well all I can say is that the screws are going in to metal, you shouldn't be able to strip (common sense, hand tool only, etc). If everything looks good, try reseating again and maybe flip the o-ring.

No idea on the GPU plate.


----------



## criskoe

dwolvin said:


> Gotcha, well all I can say is that the screws are going in to metal, you shouldn't be able to strip (common sense, hand tool only, etc). If everything looks good, try reseating again and maybe flip the o-ring.
> 
> No idea on the GPU plate.


Yeah I was more referring to the screw heads stripping. Using normal 2" allen keys on the block so nothing crazy. Nice and real tight with out HE-MANing it. LOL. 

I appreciate the suggestions but unfortunately Ive already tried rebuilding it 6 times now and did try the oring every which way. Ive given up. Thanks tho.


----------



## criskoe

dwolvin said:


> Put the block flat and put a few drops in, then pressurize. You'll see where it's coming out. and if it holds at .5 bar, it should be good to go (there is almost no pressure in a system if you have a res). If there is still a leak, check the flatness on the top on a good surface if you can, and really inspect the channel and o-ring (biggest culprit). GL!


This is what I meant about the cold plate making contact with the acrylic part... Its actually put tiny grooves in the acrylic. You can feel them with your finger nail. I removed the center Oring just for the pictures. Its normally there. Does this look right to you?


----------



## dwolvin

I would think not- and you should try it without the center o-ring. That's a popular mod and I believe the blocks have omitted them at this point (someone correct me if not).


----------



## criskoe

dwolvin said:


> I would think not- and you should try it without the center o-ring. That's a popular mod and I believe the blocks have omitted them at this point (someone correct me if not).


Yeah I thought about trying that but figured even if I removed the o-ring, the acrylic would still make contact in those spots... Ive reached out to optimus again so well see what they say. Im hoping they just swap out the block for me. Something just isnt right with this block


----------



## chibi

Try this, pressurize the block, spray on some soapy water all around the block and see where it's fizzing would be the location of the air leak. Also note, air this not as dense as water. So where air can escape, does not necessarily mean the water will too.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Try this, pressurize the block, spray on some soapy water all around the block and see where it's fizzing would be the location of the air leak. Also note, air this not as dense as water. So where air can escape, does not necessarily mean the water will too.


I regards to the screw, optimus includes all required allen keys inside the gpu package. Look in the small bags inside.


----------



## jura11

M-oll said:


> Well, I am kind of a "we" since I have some external help but I am the one that bought the IP with my own money. As external advisors I have a mechanical engineer and an industrial designer, one person involved in customer support / social media management and one person involved in logistics, "warehousing" and distribution. There is also a person in the team of advisors that I would describe as a jack-of-all trades with knowledge in the world of PC building and watercooling (he has also worked at a big Swedish retailer of computer parts). I myself has studied to become a industrial engineer / designer before I switched to social sciences. The manufacturers that I've looked at all have decades of experience in this type of field so that will also be a big plus.
> 
> So yeah, I have some way to go before anyone can buy a new CaseLabs' case, but hopefully the combined experience between me, my advisors and my manufacturer will shorten that way _considerably _once I actually have ownership of the designs, trademark etc.


Good luck to you and your team, hopefully we will see soon new Caselabs from you and your team, that case is really missing on the market 

Hope this helps and good luck mate 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## acoustic

M-oll said:


> Well, I am kind of a "we" since I have some external help but I am the one that bought the IP with my own money. As external advisors I have a mechanical engineer and an industrial designer, one person involved in customer support / social media management and one person involved in logistics, "warehousing" and distribution. There is also a person in the team of advisors that I would describe as a jack-of-all trades with knowledge in the world of PC building and watercooling (he has also worked at a big Swedish retailer of computer parts). I myself has studied to become a industrial engineer / designer before I switched to social sciences. The manufacturers that I've looked at all have decades of experience in this type of field so that will also be a big plus.
> 
> So yeah, I have some way to go before anyone can buy a new CaseLabs' case, but hopefully the combined experience between me, my advisors and my manufacturer will shorten that way _considerably _once I actually have ownership of the designs, trademark etc.


Best of luck brother! I'll be a buyer if you pull this off


----------



## iamjanco

M-oll said:


> Well, I am kind of a "we" since I have some external help but I am the one that bought the IP with my own money. As external advisors I have a mechanical engineer and an industrial designer, one person involved in customer support / social media management and one person involved in logistics, "warehousing" and distribution. There is also a person in the team of advisors that I would describe as a jack-of-all trades with knowledge in the world of PC building and watercooling (he has also worked at a big Swedish retailer of computer parts). I myself has studied to become a industrial engineer / designer before I switched to social sciences. The manufacturers that I've looked at all have decades of experience in this type of field so that will also be a big plus.
> 
> So yeah, I have some way to go before anyone can buy a new CaseLabs' case, but hopefully the combined experience between me, my advisors and my manufacturer will shorten that way _considerably _once I actually have ownership of the designs, trademark etc.


Chuckle, pretty much along the lines of what I thought but dared not say. Thanks for opening up a bit more about it


----------



## LiquidHaus

So I got that Graphene based nanofluid in! I'll have a chance to start messing with it after this week. Way too busy on the Hyte project.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> So I got that Graphene based nanofluid in! I'll have a chance to start messing with it after this week. Way too busy on the Hyte project.


I look forward to the results. However, I am in no hurry to pour that gunk into my MO-RA.


----------



## Shawnb99

LiquidHaus said:


> So I got that Graphene based nanofluid in! I'll have a chance to start messing with it after this week. Way too busy on the Hyte project.


Interested in how it performs. Sadly won’t ship to Canada


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Shawnb99 said:


> Interested in how it performs. Sadly won’t ship to Canada


I thought you were in California


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Interested in how it performs. Sadly won’t ship to Canada


We have invested too much into mayhem xtr lol


----------



## Shawnb99

0451 said:


> I thought you were in California


Nope Vancouver here


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Interested in how it performs. Sadly won’t ship to Canada


Ship it to my friend in seattle and whenever they come up they can bring with them


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Ship it to my friend in seattle and whenever they come up they can bring with them


I’ll stick with XTR since I paid so much for it


----------



## Section31

Transferred PC back to my friend and they cleaned up cabling.


----------



## ArcticZero

Any chance of Optimus making a reference 3090 block with active backplate? Really disappointed with the nickel plating on my EK block showing bare copper already in some spots, just by running distilled and Mayhems' Inhibitor+/Biocide+ for two weeks.

Would buy in a heartbeat, and go well with the AMD Foundation block I just ordered.


----------



## Section31

ArcticZero said:


> Any chance of Optimus making a reference 3090 block with active backplate? Really disappointed with the nickel plating on my EK block showing bare copper already in some spots, just by running distilled and Mayhems' Inhibitor+/Biocide+ for two weeks.
> 
> Would buy in a heartbeat, and go well with the AMD Foundation block I just ordered.


Last heard not happening


----------



## jincuteguy

Anyone knows what's size silicone Insert do I need for Bitspower PETG 14mm hard tubing? I looked up Bitspower PETG tubing but couldn't find any information for the ID size.


----------



## elbramso

no blocks next week 

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1440438542014955520


----------



## Biggu

LOL gave the ultimatum and Optimus is like done send us the info.


----------



## acoustic

Biggu said:


> LOL gave the ultimatum and Optimus is like done send us the info.


Eh. From what I can tell (not a big twitter guy) they did say products would be shipping the week of Sept 20-24. They announced Sept 10 that they would be finalizing the next week (Sept 13-17) and then shipping the week after (Sept 20-24). I don't see any updates from them indicating they pushed it back another week. It's not a good look for either party in that exchange, to be honest, unless I just missed an update that it was delayed again.

I get people being frustrated. I'm not a fan of ultimatums (I would have just cancelled) but .. yeah.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hi guys, sorry for the delays! We're working fast to get them done, we want to make sure Cerakoting with the new finish is going perfectly so everyone gets A+ blocks.


----------



## acoustic

Optimus WC said:


> Hi guys, sorry for the delays! We're working fast to get them done, we want to make sure Cerakoting with the new finish is going perfectly so everyone gets A+ blocks.


Keep on pumping 'em out! I'm really impressed with how good the Cerakote finishes look. The satin nickel finish looks fantastic, and the black looks like I'm staring into the void!


----------



## Shawnb99

Cancel and buy what? A crappier EVGA block that unless buddy already has one they will be lucky to get? Go ahead and cancel then, that’s not much of a threat.

Anyone who “pre-ordered” should of been well aware this is Optimus and that they don’t make deadlines, so anyone who’s upset enough to make threats should **** off right now. As I said before if you can’t handle delays then don’t preorder. Throwing a tantrum just makes you look like the child you are.


----------



## acoustic

Shawnb99 said:


> Cancel and buy what? A crappier EVGA block that unless buddy already has one they will be lucky to get? Go ahead and cancel then, that’s not much of a threat.
> 
> Anyone who “pre-ordered” should of been well aware this is Optimus and that they don’t make deadlines, so anyone who’s upset enough to make threats should **** off right now. As I said before if you can’t handle delays then don’t preorder. Throwing a tantrum just makes you look like the child you are.


Eh, to be fair Shawn you were throwing a tantrum in this thread not all that long ago, lol. They DO make deadlines, they just miss them .. regularly .. but it is what it is. I don't agree with threats or ultimatums, nor is it something I'd waste my time doing - like I said, just cancel and get it over with - but I can understand getting frustrated after plopping down hard $$.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Optimus WC said:


> Hi guys, sorry for the delays! We're working fast to get them done, we want to make sure Cerakoting with the new finish is going perfectly so everyone gets A+ blocks.


For those of us who have early pre-orders on the KP block when do we need to let you know what color we want and how do we do this? Email?


----------



## Shawnb99

acoustic said:


> Eh, to be fair Shawn you were throwing a tantrum in this thread not all that long ago, lol


To be fair I bitched about the lack of communication. Then again this is Optimus so that should be expected by now as well


----------



## iamjanco

Optimus WC said:


> Hi guys, sorry for the delays! We're working fast to get them done, we want to make sure Cerakoting with the new finish is going perfectly so everyone gets A+ blocks.












otoh, you could be a goat...


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Keep on pumping 'em out! I'm really impressed with how good the Cerakote finishes look. The satin nickel finish looks fantastic, and the black looks like I'm staring into the void!


I want to get cerotoke white gpu block too but have difficulty justifying. Next gen 12-15months away and midplate replacement is likely 200usd at least.


----------



## Traf90

Dear Optimus any chance that delivery to Russia going under 100 euro ? this blocks is piece of art.


----------



## Optimus WC

Traf90 said:


> Dear Optimus any chance that delivery to Russia going under 100 euro ? this blocks is piece of art.


Glad you like it! Shipping is calculated automatically based on weight and location, 100 euro sounds crazy expensive, tbh.


----------



## Traf90

Optimus WC said:


> Glad you like it! Shipping is calculated automatically based on weight and location, 100 euro sounds crazy expensive, tbh.


Thank you for answer, but when i try to check out on optimus site, i got 2 option 112$ and 132$ delivery cost sadly its to high (


----------



## Optimus WC

Traf90 said:


> Thank you for answer, but when i try to check out on optimus site, i got 2 option 112$ and 132$ delivery cost sadly its to high (


What shipping? And are there better shipping options to RU?


----------



## Traf90

Optimus WC said:


> What shipping? And are there better shipping options to RU?


I got only UPS expeditor and UPS saver, i need to think about other delivery options


----------



## Rei86

Traf90 said:


> I got only UPS expeditor and UPS saver


Sounds about right.

Only know of few companies/people who do mass package shipping getting better rates and deals that they can pass on to consumers.

Won't get any cheaper unless you have someone who is willing to walk to USPS and have it shipped to you by boat, but that'll still be probably over 50~60 bucks and over a week to a months worth of ship time.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC since the blocks are delayed. Does this give me enough time to add a new black top for my Sig2? I’m down to order a reservoir as well if it doesn’t delay my block


----------



## Traf90

Rei86 said:


> Sounds about right.
> 
> Only know of few companies/people who do mass package shipping getting better rates and deals that they can pass on to consumers.
> 
> Won't get any cheaper unless you have someone who is willing to walk to USPS and have it shipped to you by boat, but that'll still be probably over 50~60 bucks and over a week to a months worth of ship time.


You are right (
but damn - this block are so beautiful. I'm jealous of you😑


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC since the blocks are delayed. Does this give me enough time to add a new black top for my Sig2? I’m down to order a reservoir as well if it doesn’t delay my block


don’t forget about us. I am thinking about optimus reservoir also.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Biggu said:


> LOL gave the ultimatum and Optimus is like done send us the info.


Yeah I saw that. It’s definitely not how you want to do customer relations. Response should have been:

“Hey. We understand your frustration and we’re sorry that it’s taken so long. We’re almost there and appreciate your patience. We’d be sad to lose you as a customer, but can understand if you simply can’t wait anymore. Please reach out to us and we can assist you with processing a full refund. We hope you’ll give us a try again in the future. Best of luck in your PC building endeavors!”

Their response basically said “We don’t need you. We have tons of orders and can’t make enough to sell to people who want them. So we don’t need to explain anything. Don’t like it? Take your money and buzz off.”

That’s completely inexcusable and a mistake by businesses who overestimate themselves and their products, and who assume that demand will always be higher than supply. You’re selling a $600 block. And you talk to your customers like that because you think you’re the bees knees. That’s no bueno.


----------



## elbramso

Biggu said:


> LOL gave the ultimatum and Optimus is like done send us the info.


I wasn't the guy asking and pushing on Twitter. Personally I think it's kinda childish to ask in such a way^^


----------



## Biggu

elbramso said:


> I wasn't the guy asking and pushing on Twitter. Personally I think it's kinda childish to ask in such a way^^


Oh I'm not saying it was you, I think both sides could have approached this differently but it is what it is.


----------



## chibi

Anyone in this thread have experience building custom cables? I'm looking to commission out a customized 5-pin XLR cable. See link for schematic and example. Please pm me cost for service. Thank you! I contacted the author and unfortunately, he only made one batch and no longer making more.









DIY Power and USB Supply for external Radiator


This post shows how to solder a power supply for an external watercooling radiator




www.dev-eth0.de


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> Yeah I saw that. It’s definitely not how you want to do customer relations. Response should have been:
> 
> “Hey. We understand your frustration and we’re sorry that it’s taken so long. We’re almost there and appreciate your patience. We’d be sad to lose you as a customer, but can understand if you simply can’t wait anymore. Please reach out to us and we can assist you with processing a full refund. We hope you’ll give us a try again in the future. Best of luck in your PC building endeavors!”
> 
> Their response basically said “We don’t need you. We have tons of orders and can’t make enough to sell to people who want them. So we don’t need to explain anything. Don’t like it? Take your money and buzz off.”
> 
> That’s completely inexcusable and a mistake by businesses who overestimate themselves and their products, and who assume that demand will always be higher than supply. You’re selling a $600 block. And you talk to your customers like that because you think you’re the bees knees. That’s no bueno.


The more and more of the same bs I see from OPTIMUS the more I’m disgusted by their behaviour towards customers,them constantly bs’ing about dates,don’t need to start talking about communication and then seeing how they’ll pretty much start charging more and more because people will buy I’m pretty much done with them. Wanted the 16mm fittings,1 more res but now I’ll just keep what I have and buy somewhere else.

I don’t need anyone to make us look like ****ing fools for the 2-3degrees I’ll see so I can brag on some stupid reddit forum. For me and I’m only speaking for myself OPTIMUS can go **** themselves together with their whole bs and $600 blocks


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> The more and more of the same bs I see from OPTIMUS the more I’m disgusted by their behaviour towards customers,them constantly bs’ing about dates,don’t need to start talking about communication and then seeing how they’ll pretty much start charging more and more because people will buy I’m pretty much done with them. Wanted the 16mm fittings,1 more res but now I’ll just keep what I have and buy somewhere else.
> 
> I don’t need anyone to make us look like **ing fools for the 2-3degrees I’ll see so I can brag on some stupid reddit forum. For me and I’m only speaking for myself OPTIMUS can go ** themselves together with their whole bs and $600 blocks


Lol. You pretty much don’t need much as you got your optimus stuff. Enjoy life and gaming lol


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys,

We're working hard to bring up to date information about the blocks, and of course we're really sorry for the delays (we never want to be delayed, it kills us every time this happens) there is a lot going on right now and we want to make sure everyone gets A+ quality blocks!

Also, we're working hard to do what you guys want. After all, the crazy Kingpin block wasn't on the list of products until the demand became a burning inferno. And you guys wanted the ultimate ultimate, a regular block just wouldn't do  We could have done a reference block, though we're suckers for pushing the limits of what's possible.

As for customer service in general, we've added more people and processes, so you get a response much faster from us, usually within a few hours. In the past, the desire was for us to "just respond, even if it's a couple words." We try to move through a lot of emails as well as everyone who answers emails also is working hard to make the blocks or do any number of things, so apologies if responses are straightforward. We don't have dedicated CS people, we're still a baby company. Aside from customer service tone, we hope everyone is getting better service overall!

As for the Kingpin, this is the most challenging and most insane waterblock ever created, without a doubt. Our main blocks are extreme, and this is just next level. The KP isn't a few C better than air, it's a few C better than our other blocks, which are double digits better than other waterblocks and waaay better than stock coolers.

Of course, pushing the limits creates challenges.

So here are the things going on behind the scenes with launching the Kingpin:

Moved manufacturing into a new building
New manufacturing system for KP block production
Build an entirely new Cerakote painting system in our building
Add new machines designed for these and future products
Built a distilled water system in the new building for highest purity manufacturing and finishing
New machine arrives this Friday for increased production and future products

Delays we've experienced since the KP launched:

New machine electrical was done incorrectly so it delayed 2+ weeks
Cerakote is both great and tricky. For example, matte white requires double work and special attention
We needed to build entirely custom Cerakote painting and curing structures for our products to get them perfect
Our other suppliers for anodizing and nickel have gotten worse. Increased manufacturing in the US causes more biz, meaning more problems. Thus other products have gotten destroyed by outside vendors, causing more internal work to fix.
Distiller system setup ran into trouble, delayed 2 weeks.

By the end of this year, we'll have completely upgraded our entire manufacturing capability to handle everything everyone wants:

*Selling only in-stock items, no more preorders*
*Far more quantity of everything in stock!*
Exponential greater production than our original system
Fittings: New machines for extremely fast prototyping and production -- 90s, rotaries, etc etc
Better pricing on our fitting line with vastly increased output and finishing options!
Faster launching for accessory products: brackets, etc.

Other challenges that are out of our control:

D5s from Xylem are incredibly back-ordered for everyone. Even Xylem committed to have more for us, then didn't.
Fujipoly order was delayed and then they didn't have the pads, even though we were told they were ready for us. We now have a new solution, but it took time to do it.


----------



## iamjanco

Section31 said:


> Lol. You pretty much don’t need much as you got your optimus stuff. Enjoy life and gaming lol


Pepperidge Farm remembers when life meant a roof over our heads, clothes on our backs, food in our stomachs, and either a good book and/or that it was Saturday and Chiller Theater was on TV later at night. 












Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> We're working hard to bring up to date information about the blocks, and of course we're really sorry for the delays (we never want to be delayed, it kills us every time this happens) there is a lot going on right now and we want to make sure everyone gets A+ quality blocks!
> 
> Also, we're working hard to do what you guys want. After all, the crazy Kingpin block wasn't on the list of products until the demand became a burning inferno. And you guys wanted the ultimate ultimate, a regular block just wouldn't do  We could have done a reference block, though we're suckers for pushing the limits of what's possible.
> 
> As for customer service in general, we've added more people and processes, so you get a response much faster from us, usually within a few hours. In the past, the desire was for us to "just respond, even if it's a couple words." We try to move through a lot of emails as well as everyone who answers emails also is working hard to make the blocks or do any number of things, so apologies if responses are straightforward. We don't have dedicated CS people, we're still a baby company. Aside from customer service tone, we hope everyone is getting better service overall!
> 
> As for the Kingpin, this is the most challenging and most insane waterblock ever created, without a doubt. Our main blocks are extreme, and this is just next level. The KP isn't a few C better than air, it's a few C better than our other blocks, which are double digits better than other waterblocks and waaay better than stock coolers.
> 
> Of course, pushing the limits creates challenges.
> 
> So here are the things going on behind the scenes with launching the Kingpin:
> 
> Moved manufacturing into a new building
> New manufacturing system for KP block production
> Build an entirely new Cerakote painting system in our building
> Add new machines designed for these and future products
> Built a distilled water system in the new building for highest purity manufacturing and finishing
> New machine arrives this Friday for increased production and future products
> 
> Delays we've experienced since the KP launched:
> 
> New machine electrical was done incorrectly so it delayed 2+ weeks
> Cerakote is both great and tricky. For example, matte white requires double work and special attention
> We needed to build entirely custom Cerakote painting and curing structures for our products to get them perfect
> Our other suppliers for anodizing and nickel have gotten worse. Increased manufacturing in the US causes more biz, meaning more problems. Thus other products have gotten destroyed by outside vendors, causing more internal work to fix.
> Distiller system setup ran into trouble, delayed 2 weeks.
> 
> By the end of this year, we'll have completely upgraded our entire manufacturing capability to handle everything everyone wants:
> 
> *Selling only in-stock items, no more preorders*
> *Far more quantity of everything in stock!*
> Exponential greater production than our original system
> Fittings: New machines for extremely fast prototyping and production -- 90s, rotaries, etc etc
> Better pricing on our fitting line with vastly increased output and finishing options!
> Faster launching for accessory products: brackets, etc.
> 
> Other challenges that are out of our control:
> 
> D5s from Xylem are incredibly back-ordered for everyone. Even Xylem committed to have more for us, then didn't.
> Fujipoly order was delayed and then they didn't have the pads, even though we were told they were ready for us. We now have a new solution, but it took time to do it.


So *exactly what does all that mean in terms of when the KPE/active blocks will be available?* Besides performance specs, that's the only thing that's really important to me and would help me make decisions based on the answer to that question. 

I'm betting I'm not alone...


----------



## Optimus WC

iamjanco said:


> So *exactly what does all that mean in terms of when the KPE/active blocks will be available?* Besides performance specs, that's the only thing that's really important to me and would help me make decisions based on the answer to that question.
> I'm betting I'm not alone...


Definitely, we want to get you the most accurate shipping times, talking with team tomorrow morning for latest update.


----------



## iamjanco

^Thanks, looking forward to the response.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Definitely, we want to get you the most accurate shipping times, talking with team tomorrow morning for latest update.


Thank you for continuing to innovate. Can’t wait to get our hands on cerotoke finish for your other products


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> We don't have dedicated CS people, we're still a baby company


Then it’s about damn time you add one. You need at least 2-3 if not more people for CS and only CS. Adding and upgrading the production side is great but it’s meaningless when dealing with you, communication wise is an utter ****show


----------



## chibi

For all the crap that gets thrown around here about comms, shout out to Matt at Optimus. He's been extremely helpful and communicative with my orders for the past few weeks.


----------



## criskoe

@Optimus WC 

Hi could you please check with who ever does email responses from [email protected]?

The initial response was surprisingly fast for once, but the rest of my emails have since gone unanswered. I get you guys are probably bombarded with a ton of questions. But there really needs to be a better way for customers who have paid good money for your stuff to get some proper after purchase product support...


----------



## Optimus WC

criskoe said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Hi could you please check with who ever does email responses from [email protected]?
> 
> The initial response was surprisingly fast for once, but the rest of my emails have since gone unanswered. I get you guys are probably bombarded with a ton of questions. But there really needs to be a better way for customers who have paid good money for your stuff to get some proper after purchase product support...


Yup, we're working on an email, lots to go through with your system!


----------



## criskoe

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, we're working on an email, lots to go through with your system!


Thanks. Appreciate the heads up. I’m not in a massive rush. Just wanted to hear that my messages weren’t overlooked or lost.

Seriously tho. You guys should really consider a ticket system that attaches to people’s accounts so conversations and inquiries would be 1000 x easier. Not just for customers but you guys aswell. Cause from a organizational stand point. The system right now must be a gong show to manage and sort through. Especially with such a small team.

Anyways. Thanks for responding. Hope we can get something set up so I can buy those gaskets and screws I need and work something out for the other issue. Look forward to hearing from you guys.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, we're working on an email, lots to go through with your system!


Yup.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Thanks. Appreciate the heads up. I’m not in a massive rush. Just wanted to hear that my messages weren’t overlooked or lost.
> 
> Seriously tho. You guys should really consider a ticket system that attaches to people’s accounts so conversations and inquiries would be 1000 x easier. Not just for customers but you guys aswell. Cause from a organizational stand point. The system right now must be a gong show to manage and sort through. Especially with such a small team.
> 
> Anyways. Thanks for responding. Hope we can get something set up so I can buy those gaskets and screws I need and work something out for the other issue. Look forward to hearing from you guys.


You are one of optimus biggest customer lol


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> You are one of optimus biggest customer lol


HUH? You have to be joking. Jokes aside. Good customer service shouldn't matter if your a new vs old customer or small vs large buyer. Caring for all your customers and providing good customer service can go a long way. It can carry even mediocre products and companies real far.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> HUH? You have to be joking. Jokes aside. Good customer service shouldn't matter if your a new vs old customer or small vs large buyer. Caring for all your customers and providing good customer service can go a long way. It can carry even mediocre products and companies real far.


Right on CS. You bought thousands of dollars of stuff (blocks, fittings, reservoir) so that makes you an big customer lol. You probably spent more than me and my friends have on optimus.


----------



## Optimus WC

Agreed fully -- Cris's email has a lot of interesting technical details that have only come up in his case, so we've been looking to get engineering time on it, thus the delay. 

More updates soon about everything else Optimus.


----------



## iamjanco

Still patiently waiting on that update about "when." I won't bust any chops before the weekend though.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Agreed fully -- Cris's email has a lot of interesting technical details that have only come up in his case, so we've been looking to get engineering time on it, thus the delay.
> 
> More updates soon about everything else Optimus.


I have more business coming possibly. Maybe Q58 Alderlake Build with your blemish cpu blocks and blemish soft compression fittings (when you guys restock).


----------



## dng25

KP still few weeks out 


__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1441439834657079301


----------



## chibi

"Few weeks out" - you know the shiz storm is coming, haha. I want to say sorry to all the KP guys, but what can you do. It's not like sorry's will help in this situation. 🤷‍♂️


----------



## LiquidHaus

Before any of you guys get your panties twisted on more delays, just remember this situation is affecting everyone in some form or another.









Why a record number of container ships are backed up off the coast of California


So many container ships are trying to make it to port, some of them are just drifting due to a dearth of anchorages. Here's why.




www.popsci.com


----------



## HyperMatrix

dng25 said:


> KP still few weeks out
> 
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1441439834657079301





chibi said:


> "Few weeks out" - you know the shiz storm is coming, haha. I want to say sorry to all the KP guys, but what can you do. It's not like sorry's will help in this situation. 🤷‍♂️


**** happens. As long as they actually communicate this information as soon as it's available, that's all I can ask for. I can be as upset as I like but it's not going to change anything.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

If you guys aren’t happy there’s always Watercool. Their quality is 10/10 and shipping from Germany to Kansas takes 6 days.


----------



## Shawnb99

0451 said:


> If you guys aren’t happy there’s always Watercool. Their quality is 10/10 and shipping from Germany to Kansas takes 6 days.


Watercool has a KPE block?


----------



## tbrown7552

after seeing the full black block im a little less uprehensive about the cerakote. not gonna lie with the removal of polished nickel i was really considering cancelling. Would be nice to see all three colors like that or even a real life prototype mounted to a card because renders can only show so much.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> If you guys aren’t happy there’s always Watercool. Their quality is 10/10 and shipping from Germany to Kansas takes 6 days.


Half the people here are stuck on optimus (were watercool users) so they are more ranting/venting frustration more than anything else.

Worst is the twitter group. I think the group complaining back last year have moved onto twitter thankfully


----------



## Section31

tbrown7552 said:


> after seeing the full black block im a little less uprehensive about the cerakote. not gonna lie with the removal of polished nickel i was really considering cancelling. Would be nice to see all three colors like that or even a real life prototype mounted to a card because renders can only show so much.


I love ceratoke. Wished could change my strix block and fittings but not doing so as not worth it cost wise, even an midplate change.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Watercool has a KPE block?


Nope. They have issues coming out with ftw3 block as is.


----------



## acoustic

0451 said:


> If you guys aren’t happy there’s always Watercool. Their quality is 10/10 and shipping from Germany to Kansas takes 6 days.


I love watercool and they are the first product I'd buy for WC, but yeah.. they have really struggled with blocks this time around for Ampere. I have no clue what could possibly cause them to struggle THIS hard with making a FTW3 block. They've been talking about it since January, and still nothing - not even a render. When I last spoke to their support during my big order, they said they had no ETA at all.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I love watercool and they are the first product I'd buy for WC, but yeah.. they have really struggled with blocks this time around for Ampere. I have no clue what could possibly cause them to struggle THIS hard with making a FTW3 block. They've been talking about it since January, and still nothing - not even a render. When I last spoke to their support during my big order, they said they had no ETA at all.


Pandemic screwed up lot of R&D and Logistics. Also lot of ugly global politics too. Got to work around it.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Pandemic screwed up lot of R&D and Logistics. Also lot of ugly global politics too. Got to work around it.


I get all of that, but even with that in consideration, I can't fathom how they haven't at least had renders to show, but they were able to make RX6000 blocks..


----------



## D-EJ915

From what I remember from old rep, watercool had some big industrial contracts come in so they are probably focused on those more at the moment.


----------



## Section31

D-EJ915 said:


> From what I remember from old rep, watercool had some big industrial contracts come in so they are probably focused on those more at the moment.


Nobody knows since Jakob left. I prefer going to German hardwareluxx than overclock.net thread. At least Rico (owner)/Markus is there


----------



## JustinThyme

0451 said:


> If you guys aren’t happy there’s always Watercool. Their quality is 10/10 and shipping from Germany to Kansas takes 6 days.


I agree, never had a bad watercool anything. I had to wait awhile for my Strix 2080Ti blocks but all the big dogs were slow to deliver on that one. ASUS threw them a curve ball on the PCB layout with one of the secondary VRM chokes being turned 90 degrees. No one would say crap of why including ASUS. Found out when the Matrix was released. Same exact card with an on board AIO that is more of a gimmick than anything. Still dumps the heat into your case and takes up more room. The Matrix is supposed to have better binned parts but I run my Strix 2080Tis at the same everything as a matrix just with the Heat Killer Water blocks. Even EK was late to the show on that one. surprisingly Thermaltake pacifica was one of the first out but it sucked balls and they quit selling them. Barrow through out a POS that looked like and EK knock off. I sourced a pair of Phanteks blocks directly from pahanteks and they actually did quite well. Only thing is no back plate and the original back plate sucks. Zero contact with the board so its more of an insulator than helping anything. I ran the Phanteks blocks without the backplate for a few months until the Heat Killer blocks were released. EK released about the same time but their 2080Ti Stric block looked like the bride of Frankenstein, ugly as hell. Cant speak for the performance but I can say the Heatkiller blocks Im running on 2080Tis give me an 8C delta under full load, cant ask for any better than that.

The global supply chain is killing all industries about now. In the US there are hundreds of cargo ships anchored off shore because they have no one to unload and whats there to unload there is nowhere to unload them to as they dont have drivers to get them on their way. This is what happens when you pay people an inflated unemployment rate and stimulus checks and make it to where they dont have to pay rent either. One of my sons friends worked part time at a gym like 20 hours a week. He is making more than double on unemployment then the stimulus checks to boot. Every industry is hurting for help. There are around 8 million unemployed and 10 million job openings.


----------



## Suteyaten

@Optimus WC How long are Cerakote coatings supposed to last given your application process and the use case these blocks will be placed in? I've talked with a friend that has done Cerakoting on guns and are known to last 3-5 years before they begin to flake. What happens if these begin to flake off? How will the warranty be upheld since it does seem to be inefficient to recoat a block as well as costly to replace them.


----------



## Optimus WC

Suteyaten said:


> @Optimus WC How long are Cerakote coatings supposed to last given your application process and the use case these blocks will be placed in? I've talked with a friend that has done Cerakoting on guns and are known to last 3-5 years before they begin to flake. What happens if these begin to flake off? How will the warranty be upheld since it does seem to be inefficient to recoat a block as well as costly to replace them.


Good question, standard warranty applies. Gun applications are considerably different, and the flaking that happens is almost entirely due to physical abrasion from how the guns are carried. So holstering a gun daily will see wear in a few years. Waterblocks don't have that issue.


----------



## Optimus WC

Optimus WC said:


> Good question, standard warranty applies. Gun applications are considerably different, and the flaking that happens is almost entirely due to physical abrasion from how the guns are carried. So holstering a gun daily will see wear in a few years. Waterblocks don't have that issue.


Also worth pointing out that Cerakote has a 9H hardness, like sapphire, one step below diamond. So fluid friction is where the only movement comes into play, but even mica-based crazy coolants like Vue won't cause it an issue. Expansion/contraction won't cause an issue either since it's actually a very flexible coating. Really, we expect Cerakote to be better long term than almost anything else out there.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Also worth pointing out that Cerakote has a 9H hardness, like sapphire, one step below diamond. So fluid friction is where the only movement comes into play, but even mica-based crazy coolants like Vue won't cause it an issue. Expansion/contraction won't cause an issue either since it's actually a very flexible coating. Really, we expect Cerakote to be better long term than almost anything else out there.


Great news. Would love to test out strix midplate for that. There’s going to be some kind of build up in my loop lol


----------



## BULLGOD19

Sorry if it's been mentioned before but any chance of an "exchange" type system for the midplate? And is there any chance of a acetal top plate\terminal option for the FTW3?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Shawnb99 said:


> Watercool has a KPE block?


You got me there.


JustinThyme said:


> I agree, never had a bad watercool anything. I had to wait awhile for my Strix 2080Ti blocks but all the big dogs were slow to deliver on that one. ASUS threw them a curve ball on the PCB layout with one of the secondary VRM chokes being turned 90 degrees. No one would say crap of why including ASUS. Found out when the Matrix was released. Same exact card with an on board AIO that is more of a gimmick than anything. Still dumps the heat into your case and takes up more room. The Matrix is supposed to have better binned parts but I run my Strix 2080Tis at the same everything as a matrix just with the Heat Killer Water blocks. Even EK was late to the show on that one. surprisingly Thermaltake pacifica was one of the first out but it sucked balls and they quit selling them. Barrow through out a POS that looked like and EK knock off. I sourced a pair of Phanteks blocks directly from pahanteks and they actually did quite well. Only thing is no back plate and the original back plate sucks. Zero contact with the board so its more of an insulator than helping anything. I ran the Phanteks blocks without the backplate for a few months until the Heat Killer blocks were released. EK released about the same time but their 2080Ti Stric block looked like the bride of Frankenstein, ugly as hell. Cant speak for the performance but I can say the Heatkiller blocks Im running on 2080Tis give me an 8C delta under full load, cant ask for any better than that.
> 
> The global supply chain is killing all industries about now. In the US there are hundreds of cargo ships anchored off shore because they have no one to unload and whats there to unload there is nowhere to unload them to as they dont have drivers to get them on their way. This is what happens when you pay people an inflated unemployment rate and stimulus checks and make it to where they dont have to pay rent either. One of my sons friends worked part time at a gym like 20 hours a week. He is making more than double on unemployment then the stimulus checks to boot. Every industry is hurting for help. There are around 8 million unemployed and 10 million job openings.


I have open positions that a recruiting company is looking to fill. When I call the numbers on the resumes, nobody picks up the phone or returns my voicemails. I figured out the candidates are applying for jobs to keep their benefits, but they tell their case manager that companies are not calling them back. I get legitimate applications from overseas applicants who want to work, but my company doesn't offer sponsorship so I can't hire them.

At least GPU blocks are frivolous luxury items that are in no way necessary. I'm perfectly happy keeping my Hydrocopper KPE block while I spend Optimus money on my MO-RA. The heat exchanger will last through many builds while the GPU block will only last as long as I have my 3090.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> You got me there.
> 
> I have open positions that a recruiting company is looking to fill. When I call the numbers on the resumes, nobody picks up the phone or returns my voicemails. I figured out the candidates are applying for jobs to keep their benefits, but they tell their case manager that companies are not calling them back. I get legitimate applications from overseas applicants who want to work, but my company doesn't offer sponsorship so I can't hire them.
> 
> At least GPU blocks are frivolous luxury items that are in no way necessary. I'm perfectly happy keeping my Hydrocopper KPE block while I spend Optimus money on my MO-RA. The heat exchanger will last through many builds while the GPU block will only last as long as I have my 3090.


Multiple ways to spend money just how you want to do it.


----------



## iamjanco

So anyway, I did get the email from @Optimus WC requesting the color combo I wanted for my KPE/Active order and decided to hold off for a few days before responding to them. I'm giving myself a couple of days to make sure I really want the block even if it potentially means waiting far longer to recieve it.


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> So anyway, I did get the email from @Optimus WC requesting the color combo I wanted for my KPE/Active order and decided to hold off for a few days before responding to them. I'm giving myself a couple of days to make sure I really want the block even if it potentially means waiting far longer to recieve it.


Considering the block is delayed a few weeks I don’t think taking a few days to decide the colour options will affect your shipping status. I’m still debating on raw copper or nickel myself.


----------



## Section31

Anyway look what came in. Barrowsch new 90 Rotary (Ekwb Torque Clones)










Put up comparisons with EKWB Torque and Bitspower Later


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Swagelok 316L rotary fittings.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Swagelok 316L rotary fittings.
> 
> View attachment 2526240


Love the industrial look of them. I take it those are plumbing grade right?


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Swagelok 316L rotary fittings.
> 
> View attachment 2526240


Always looking for perfect rotary 90. I literally had same issue plaguing me and my friends build. Leaking fittings (bitspower/barrows) that needed EKWB Torque to save the day.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Always looking for perfect rotary 90. I literally had same issue plaguing me and my friends build. Leaking fittings (bitspower/barrows) that needed EKWB Torque to save the day.


They are pharmaceutical grade 316L. I would have happily paid less for 304 but this is not an option.

The Thermaltake rotary that photo-bombed the picture has a very tight-fitting leak-free rotary element. I suspect the Swagelok positional fittings will be leak-free on account of their price, intended use, and industry reputation.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> They are pharmaceutical grade 316L. I would have happily paid less for 304 but this is not an option.
> 
> The Thermaltake rotary that photo-bombed the picture has a very tight-fitting leak-free rotary element. I suspect the Swagelok positional fittings will be leak-free on account of their price, intended use, and industry reputation.


Thanks for the tip. Pharmaceutical ones are good too.


----------



## chibi

0451 said:


> Swagelok 316L rotary fittings.


316 stainless is good stuff. I assume it's also threaded properly for out fittings? Lastly, do you have a link to where one may procure them? Thanks!


----------



## elbramso

Shouldn't I receive an email from optimus already? Maybe I misread the post


----------



## geriatricpollywog

chibi said:


> 316 stainless is good stuff. I assume it's also threaded properly for out fittings? Lastly, do you have a link to where one may procure them? Thanks!


Yes, they fit properly. Here is the exact part I bought. They were $38.70 each. I did not pay shipping because there is a Swagelok store a couple miles away.

Stainless Steel Swagelok Tube Fitting, Positionable Male Elbow, 1/2 in. Tube OD x 1/4 in. Male ISO Parallel Thread | Male Connectors | Tube Fittings and Adapters | Fittings | Swagelok


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> 316 stainless is good stuff. I assume it's also threaded properly for out fittings? Lastly, do you have a link to where one may procure them? Thanks!


Time to look. Industrial seems reliable


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Also keep in mind they have a deep thread that may not fully penetrate.


----------



## chibi

0451 said:


> Yes, they fit properly. Here is the exact part I bought. They were $38.70 each. I did not pay shipping because there is a Swagelok store a couple miles away.
> 
> Stainless Steel Swagelok Tube Fitting, Positionable Male Elbow, 1/2 in. Tube OD x 1/4 in. Male ISO Parallel Thread | Male Connectors | Tube Fittings and Adapters | Fittings | Swagelok
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2526242


Awesome config! Looks a lot like the SS fittings I used for my detailing setup, Dixon industrial.


----------



## Section31

Difference Shot. BP Fittings (these are lightly to just storage) chip paint bad


----------



## Shawnb99

So any advantages/disadvantages to raw copper cold plates over the nickel one? Copper looks nicer but won’t see it under coloured fluid so doesn’t matter too much


----------



## ENTERPRISE

Please stay on topic and avoid politics of any kind. I would rather not come back in here and clean up again, If I do then I will simply temp close this topic.


----------



## Section31

ENTERPRISE said:


> Please stay on topic and avoid politics of any kind. I would rather not come back in here and clean up again, If I do then I will simply temp close this topic.


Some of us have been trying to keep it clean.


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> So any advantages/disadvantages to raw copper cold plates over the nickel one? Copper looks nicer but won’t see it under coloured fluid so doesn’t matter too much


I think you'd be okay either way. Me, though it might not always seem so, I'm typically not so much concerned with looks as I am with functionality.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

iamjanco said:


> I think you'd be okay either way. Me, though it might not always seem so, I'm typically not so much concerned with looks as I am with functionality.
> 
> View attachment 2526366
> 
> 
> View attachment 2526368
> 
> 
> View attachment 2526369
> 
> 
> View attachment 2526372


You are definitely going for a look and there’s nothing wrong with that.


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> I think you'd be okay either way. Me, though it might not always seem so, I'm typically not so much concerned with looks as I am with functionality.
> 
> View attachment 2526366
> 
> 
> View attachment 2526368
> 
> 
> View attachment 2526369
> 
> 
> View attachment 2526372


Love your build.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> So any advantages/disadvantages to raw copper cold plates over the nickel one? Copper looks nicer but won’t see it under coloured fluid so doesn’t matter too much


The raw copper is supposed to be better for thermal conductivity but Ive not noted any difference personally. I tried a few on different blocks. I tend to stick with Nickel plated mostly because copper is going to oxidize, not a matter of if but when. Its pretty when its new but that doesnt last forever. Nickel on the other hand does so long as you dont get a crappy plating job. Ive been lucky with that for a long time until my first Optimus Sig V2 cold plate shed on the fins like a banana and clogged up my filter. I contacted them through the web support and they did send me a replacement cold plate. I guess every manufacturer is bound by who they outsource the plating to and none of them do it in house. EK got a bad rap for it some time ago but they fixed it by changing their plating vendor. Im not the biggest fan of EK just from a performance perspective and Ive always had better luck with Heat Killer. I was running a HKIV pro CPU block until recently and now Im running the EK magnitude. Did a comparison out of the box and the Optimus and EK magnitude were neck and neck. I got better performance from the Optimus later by pulling the internal Oring and better yet with the magnitude when I switched to their flat cold plate that isn't completely flat and it just gets better contact with my IHS than the Optimus blocks. Not everyone will have the same result as one thing that was learned with Intel IHS anyhow is no two are the same even the same SKU. Just have to find what works for you. Im not ready to void my warranty just yet by lapping the IHS and Im certainly not going to try a delid and aftermarket flat IHS on a 10980XE after watching De8auer break his delid tool and ruin a CPU. By the time the warranty is up the Next gen I will consider will be out so its pretty pointless to lap anything. I may see slight gains and have to change cold plates again or even entire blocks. I have one of the Optimus Sig V2 flats that I tried and it didn't go over well at all but they didnt advertise it for that, it was for aftermarket Flat IHS and they said they will no longer make them so I snagged one while they could still be had just in case. Same cold plate just less deflection from the top.


----------



## HyperMatrix

JustinThyme said:


> The raw copper is supposed to be better for thermal conductivity but Ive not noted any difference personally. I tried a few on different blocks. I tend to stick with Nickel plated mostly because copper is going to oxidize, not a matter of if but when. Its pretty when its new but that doesnt last forever. Nickel on the other hand does so long as you dont get a crappy plating job. Ive been lucky with that for a long time until my first Optimus Sig V2 cold plate shed on the fins like a banana and clogged up my filter. I contacted them through the web support and they did send me a replacement cold plate. I guess every manufacturer is bound by who they outsource the plating to and none of them do it in house. EK got a bad rap for it some time ago but they fixed it by changing their plating vendor. Im not the biggest fan of EK just from a performance perspective and Ive always had better luck with Heat Killer. I was running a HKIV pro CPU block until recently and now Im running the EK magnitude. Did a comparison out of the box and the Optimus and EK magnitude were neck and neck. I got better performance from the Optimus later by pulling the internal Oring and better yet with the magnitude when I switched to their flat cold plate that isn't completely flat and it just gets better contact with my IHS than the Optimus blocks. Not everyone will have the same result as one thing that was learned with Intel IHS anyhow is no two are the same even the same SKU. Just have to find what works for you. Im not ready to void my warranty just yet by lapping the IHS and Im certainly not going to try a delid and aftermarket flat IHS on a 10980XE after watching De8auer break his delid tool and ruin a CPU. By the time the warranty is up the Next gen I will consider will be out so its pretty pointless to lap anything. I may see slight gains and have to change cold plates again or even entire blocks. I have one of the Optimus Sig V2 flats that I tried and it didn't go over well at all but they didnt advertise it for that, it was for aftermarket Flat IHS and they said they will no longer make them so I snagged one while they could still be had just in case. Same cold plate just less deflection from the top.


Just one thing to point out. Thermal conductivity of nickel is different from that of nickel plated copper. How thick or thin of a layer you have matters. We had a discussion over this in the 3090 thread where people were saying the maximum thermal conductivity of a liquid metal TIM will be it’s least thermally conductive component. We found that not only can amalgams surpass the thermal conductivity of their weakest link, but that certain additions could actually improve thermal conductivity. And all of that still relied on how thick of a layer we were talking about.

For standard water cooling I don’t believe you can measure a difference in performance between a copper cold plate vs. a nickel plated copper cold plate. I would love to be proven wrong on this if anyone has contradictory information to share. For example Optimus themselves since they do a lot of tests internally.


----------



## elbramso

In regards of the KPE blocks. I did not receive an email by now. Did they already sent them?


----------



## Shawnb99

elbramso said:


> In regards of the KPE blocks. I did not receive an email by now. Did they already sent them?


Should of been sent out Friday. Check your spam folder


----------



## elbramso

Shawnb99 said:


> Should of been sent out Friday. Check your spam folder


checked my inbox (and spam) 2times per hour since friday^^


----------



## dng25

elbramso said:


> checked my inbox (and spam) 2times per hour since friday^^


Just email [email protected] with the block finish, cold plate finish, and order number.


----------



## JustinThyme

HyperMatrix said:


> Just one thing to point out. Thermal conductivity of nickel is different from that of nickel plated copper. How thick or thin of a layer you have matters. We had a discussion over this in the 3090 thread where people were saying the maximum thermal conductivity of a liquid metal TIM will be it’s least thermally conductive component. We found that not only can amalgams surpass the thermal conductivity of their weakest link, but that certain additions could actually improve thermal conductivity. And all of that still relied on how thick of a layer we were talking about.
> 
> For standard water cooling I don’t believe you can measure a difference in performance between a copper cold plate vs. a nickel plated copper cold plate. I would love to be proven wrong on this if anyone has contradictory information to share. For example Optimus themselves since they do a lot of tests internally.


Yeah pretty much what I said that bare copper is supposed to be better but I’ve not noted any difference myself. Last try was an Optimus sit V2 copper VS nickel plated. Same rig, Same load, same ambient, same TIM. Only thing that changed was the cold plate. After an hour run on each of blender Classroom render they both gave me max core temp of 80C with a 10980XE OCd to 4.8GHz.

EKs take on it, same as mine. It looks good and corrosion resistance 
What is the difference between Nickel and Copper? - ekwb.com


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Yeah pretty much what I said that bare copper is supposed to be better but I’ve not noted any difference myself. Last try was an Optimus sit V2 copper VS nickel plated. Same rig, Same load, same ambient, same TIM. Only thing that changed was the cold plate. After an hour run on each of blender Classroom render they both gave me max core temp of 80C with a 10980XE OCd to 4.8GHz.
> 
> EKs take on it, same as mine. It looks good and corrosion resistance
> What is the difference between Nickel and Copper? - ekwb.com


i agree also appearance wise. Used both nickel and copper optimus coldplate and nickel holds out better than the copper. Especially in the micro fin area.


----------



## asdf893

Anyone bummed to hear about the 3090 Super rumors after we're about to invest further into our 3090 KPE's? Imagine a 3090 Super outperforming an optimus 3090 KPE


----------



## Shawnb99

asdf893 said:


> Anyone bummed to hear about the 3090 Super rumors after we're about to invest further into our 3090 KPE's? Imagine a 3090 Super outperforming an optimus 3090 KPE


Yes and No. Sure it’ll suck we won’t have the TOTL card anymore, if it’s even true, but we can console ourselves knowing if it does happen it’ll be so late that the 4xxxx series should be out and also with shortages only getting worse, grabbing one will be next to impossible.


----------



## chibi

asdf893 said:


> Anyone bummed to hear about the 3090 Super rumors after we're about to invest further into our 3090 KPE's? Imagine a 3090 Super outperforming an optimus 3090 KPE


LOL I can't even find a standard 80/90 that isn't bundled with some useless junk. IMO, no need to worry about Super editions if you can't even get regular stock. 😄


----------



## LiquidHaus

asdf893 said:


> Anyone bummed to hear about the 3090 Super rumors after we're about to invest further into our 3090 KPE's? Imagine a 3090 Super outperforming an optimus 3090 KPE


With how close the 3080Ti gets to the 3090, I can't imagine the 3090 Super being much more powerful than a normal 3090. Most definitely not worth the hassle and money to drop all of our progress with the 3090 for a Super. Now if you don't own a 30 series card, then yeah definitely go for a Super if it's real. And good luck to you nabbing any sort of 30 series at that point lol


----------



## geriatricpollywog

asdf893 said:


> Anyone bummed to hear about the 3090 Super rumors after we're about to invest further into our 3090 KPE's? Imagine a 3090 Super outperforming an optimus 3090 KPE


Unless they gimp 3090 performance, then no, I’m still getting the performance I paid for. And unless EVGA makes a 3090 Super Kingpin, the non-super will still top the Port Royal charts. Only the 3090 has a 1000w bios.


----------



## Biggu

LiquidHaus said:


> With how close the 3080Ti gets to the 3090, I can't imagine the 3090 Super being much more powerful than a normal 3090. Most definitely not worth the hassle and money to drop all of our progress with the 3090 for a Super. Now if you don't own a 30 series card, then yeah definitely go for a Super if it's real. And good luck to you nabbing any sort of 30 series at that point lol


Man I wish I could show you a picture of the Microcenter GPU cases new me right now. Damn thing looks like pre pandemic stock it has so many EVGA / ASUS/ MSI 30 series cards


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Man I wish I could show you a picture of the Microcenter GPU cases new me right now. Damn thing looks like pre pandemic stock it has so many EVGA / ASUS/ MSI 30 series cards





http://imgur.com/bR9fvY5


So bloody hard to time things. Friend only paid 3000HKD for this (5000HKD was covered by HK Government digital voucher). I was planning to use my 5K digital voucher on Alderlake 12900K but travelling there is major issue (cost lot of money and quarantine) so have to buy locally. Right now debating what to do about shipping with my group buy custom mechanical keyboard. Do i send it to Hong Kong address or Canadian one.


----------



## chibi

Biggu said:


> Man I wish I could show you a picture of the Microcenter GPU cases new me right now. Damn thing looks like pre pandemic stock it has so many EVGA / ASUS/ MSI 30 series cards


Feeling up for a drive? Lol


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Feeling up for a drive? Lol


Actually HK is an nice option in the future. I have asked around as i have meet other watercooling contacts in that region through reddit of all places. Some interesting ones including builders and distributors there, who can get up to 50% off components there and are actually stocking watercool/aquacomputer even Optimus Stuff). Building costs range from 5000HKD to 15000HKD (as people there build like 100,000 HKD PC's) and its not an bad option considering all the time lost in building up our own rigs if we just don't have the time to build in the future. Might try to meetup in person with these sort of people in the future (easiest place is Hong Kong).


----------



## LiquidHaus

Biggu said:


> Man I wish I could show you a picture of the Microcenter GPU cases new me right now. Damn thing looks like pre pandemic stock it has so many EVGA / ASUS/ MSI 30 series cards


Wanna snag me a 3060? or 3060ti?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> Wanna snag me a 3060? or 3060ti?


I could check for you tomorrow if you could score me a Yule Beast. My local neighborhood MC is well-stocked.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> I could check for you tomorrow if you could score me a Yule Beast. My local neighborhood MC is well-stocked.


That's great to hear. MC carries lot of stuff that we Canadiansl have to import in lol.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> That's great to hear. MC carries lot of stuff that we Canadiansl have to import in lol.


You nerd anything?


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> You nerd anything?


Thanks. I'm pretty good. It's all just shipping logistics for me at this point lol.


----------



## JustinThyme

Im sitting out 30XX and sticking with my pair of 2080Tis. The madness is unreal and even more unreal are the prices!! If I was to go 30XX it would be a pair of 3090s, probably the Strix OC variant. Even at retail by the time sales tax is paid that's $5K!!!!!  Ill put a new S&S big bore in my HD fatboy first!!


----------



## Kana Chan

Section31 said:


> Some interesting ones including builders and distributors there, who can get up to 50% off components there and are actually stocking watercool/aquacomputer even Optimus Stuff). Building costs range from 5000HKD to 15000HKD (as people there build like 100,000 HKD PC's)


Which mall/store is this? 50%?


----------



## Section31

Kana Chan said:


> Which mall/store is this? 50%?


That is some special connection deal i heard. Not readily available to public lol. I don’t even have access lol


----------



## HyperMatrix

I know some of you were waiting for LiquidHaus to give a review of the GoChiller graphene nano coolant. I saw LTT did a very very garbage review video on it that showed like 1-2c lower temps on a 74C cpu. I then looked at the GoChiller website and it’s making some truly suspicious claims that make me immediately not trust them.

They claim thermal conductivity is 6% higher than other coolant out there:









But then claim that this results in a drop from 54C with a “leading competitor’s” coolant to just 48C with theirs. This is impossible in terms of physics:










They also claim that this 6% higher thermal conductivity results in an 11% increase in Cinebench R23 scores. Although in this case they no longer say that the comparison is against a leading competitor










They also say that it needs to be replaced every 12 months which is a slightly shorter lifespan than the 60 months on Mayhem’s XT-1 Nuke. At a cost of $29 USD per liter before shipping, that means subscribing to a $100+/year liquid exchange. That’s more expensive than 2 full synthetic oil changes on my car per year. 










Overall, shady advertising. From what I’ve seen the coolant does provide marginally better results. And I mean marginally. And with just a 12 month life, I wouldn’t ever consider it. There is one reason that it’s still intriguing though. It looks amazing. But I’m still concerned about the life span. It’s very short. What’s happening during that time? What’s breaking down? Is it causing other issues in the loop and coating components?

No Answers to those questions yet. But most important thing, their fake and deceptive marketing is an instant turn off for me.


----------



## ciarlatano

JustinThyme said:


> Im sitting out 30XX and sticking with my pair of 2080Tis. The madness is unreal and even more unreal are the prices!! If I was to go 30XX it would be a pair of 3090s, probably the Strix OC variant. Even at retail by the time sales tax is paid that's $5K!!!!!  Ill put a new S&S big bore in my HD fatboy first!!


My bank account is so happy that I never took video games seriously.


----------



## Shawnb99

ciarlatano said:


> My bank account is so happy that I never took video games seriously.


My bank account knows better, if I didn’t spend so much on the PC I’d find something else to blow it on.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> My bank account knows better, if I didn’t spend so much on the PC I’d find something else to blow it on.


Yeah. Join me on keyboard


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Yeah. Join me on keyboard


I haven’t found the perfect one yet but I’m sure it’ll break the bank when I do.
Looking at this one atm



https://www.mechgroupbuys.com/keyboards/Cloudline


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I haven’t found the perfect one yet but I’m sure it’ll break the bank when I do.
> Looking at this one atm
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.mechgroupbuys.com/keyboards/Cloudline


Make sure get right plate and hotswap. Made rookie mistake and got brass for mine. Should have gotten fr4 for gasket mounted board. Switches (too many of them) and keycaps be careful. GMK and Kat/Kam are 1year waiting time. Those things add up fast fyi. You rarely just buy 1 set of keycaps.

Always new designer switches to try out.

I got four in total (2 coming) and looking to add one more in hammerwork crp (suppose to be top pbt keycaps but plain looking)

My friends got geonworks tkl and mr suit tkl. Both interesting boards and not too expensive.


----------



## Section31

ciarlatano said:


> My bank account is so happy that I never took video games seriously.


Video games aren’t the worst. You can pick far worse items to kill your bank account.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> I know some of you were waiting for LiquidHaus to give a review of the GoChiller graphene nano coolant. I saw LTT did a very very garbage review video on it that showed like 1-2c lower temps on a 74C cpu. I then looked at the GoChiller website and it’s making some truly suspicious claims that make me immediately not trust them.
> 
> They claim thermal conductivity is 6% higher than other coolant out there:
> View attachment 2527189
> 
> 
> But then claim that this results in a drop from 54C with a “leading competitor’s” coolant to just 48C with theirs. This is impossible in terms of physics:
> 
> View attachment 2527190
> 
> 
> They also claim that this 6% higher thermal conductivity results in an 11% increase in Cinebench R23 scores. Although in this case they no longer say that the comparison is against a leading competitor
> 
> View attachment 2527191
> 
> 
> They also say that it needs to be replaced every 12 months which is a slightly shorter lifespan than the 60 months on Mayhem’s XT-1 Nuke. At a cost of $29 USD per liter before shipping, that means subscribing to a $100+/year liquid exchange. That’s more expensive than 2 full synthetic oil changes on my car per year.
> 
> View attachment 2527188
> 
> 
> Overall, shady advertising. From what I’ve seen the coolant does provide marginally better results. And I mean marginally. And with just a 12 month life, I wouldn’t ever consider it. There is one reason that it’s still intriguing though. It looks amazing. But I’m still concerned about the life span. It’s very short. What’s happening during that time? What’s breaking down? Is it causing other issues in the loop and coating components?
> 
> No Answers to those questions yet. But most important thing, their fake and deceptive marketing is an instant turn off for me.


People eat it up when Optimus makes deceptive claims about the performance of their blocks, so don’t underestimate the power of marketing.


----------



## HyperMatrix

0451 said:


> People eat it up when Optimus makes deceptive claims about the performance of their blocks, so don’t underestimate the power of marketing.


Well I’ve been very happy with my Signature V2 block. But I haven’t gotten my GPU block yet so can’t test their claims of 8C or lower delta on 1000W bios (although not at 1000W draw). Recently tested my friend’s shunted FTW3 with around 600W draw. Using just a basic EKWB block was getting a delta of 12-13C above water temp. So I don’t think it would be unreasonable for the Optimus KP block with active backplate cooling to actually hit an 8C or under delta.

But alas…been waiting more than half the life cycle of the 3090 for a black that hasn’t materialized yet.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> Well I’ve been very happy with my Signature V2 block. But I haven’t gotten my GPU block yet so can’t test their claims of 8C or lower delta on 1000W bios (although not at 1000W draw). Recently tested my friend’s shunted FTW3 with around 600W draw. Using just a basic EKWB block was getting a delta of 12-13C above water temp. So I don’t think it would be unreasonable for the Optimus KP block with active backplate cooling to actually hit an 8C or under delta.
> 
> But alas…been waiting more than half the life cycle of the 3090 for a black that hasn’t materialized yet.


But wait, there’s more. Get ready for some negative deltas.

_“As for the Kingpin, this is the most challenging and most insane waterblock ever created, without a doubt. Our main blocks are extreme, and this is just next level. The KP isn't a few C better than air, it's a few C better than our other blocks, which are double digits better than other waterblocks and waaay better than stock coolers.”_


----------



## iamjanco

Section31 said:


> Video games aren’t the worst. You can pick far worse items to kill your bank account.


Yup... girlfriends, fiancees, wives, exes (with or without kids attached; not necessarily strictly in the stated order).


----------



## chibi

^ the duke of v-town, protector of beds, banisher of cooties.


----------



## LiquidHaus

HyperMatrix said:


> I know some of you were waiting for LiquidHaus to give a review of the GoChiller graphene nano coolant. I saw LTT did a very very garbage review video on it that showed like 1-2c lower temps on a 74C cpu. I then looked at the GoChiller website and it’s making some truly suspicious claims that make me immediately not trust them.
> 
> They claim thermal conductivity is 6% higher than other coolant out there:
> 
> But then claim that this results in a drop from 54C with a “leading competitor’s” coolant to just 48C with theirs. This is impossible in terms of physics:
> 
> They also claim that this 6% higher thermal conductivity results in an 11% increase in Cinebench R23 scores. Although in this case they no longer say that the comparison is against a leading competitor
> 
> They also say that it needs to be replaced every 12 months which is a slightly shorter lifespan than the 60 months on Mayhem’s XT-1 Nuke. At a cost of $29 USD per liter before shipping, that means subscribing to a $100+/year liquid exchange. That’s more expensive than 2 full synthetic oil changes on my car per year.
> 
> Overall, shady advertising. From what I’ve seen the coolant does provide marginally better results. And I mean marginally. And with just a 12 month life, I wouldn’t ever consider it. There is one reason that it’s still intriguing though. It looks amazing. But I’m still concerned about the life span. It’s very short. What’s happening during that time? What’s breaking down? Is it causing other issues in the loop and coating components?
> 
> No Answers to those questions yet. But most important thing, their fake and deceptive marketing is an instant turn off for me.


Yeah I've been pretty busy lately! Working with Intel directly for this next month on their Alder Lake launch, so I won't have time to mess with the GoChiller fluid until November.

I'm slightly mentally preparing myself to allocate some components that might get potentially wrecked from the graphene. You know, I should test it using an Foundations V2 block lol


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Yeah I've been pretty busy lately! Working with Intel directly for this next month on their Alder Lake launch, so I won't have time to mess with the GoChiller fluid until November.
> 
> I'm slightly mentally preparing myself to allocate some components that might get potentially wrecked from the graphene. You know, I should test it using an Foundations V2 block lol


Sweet. Can’t wait to see your Alderlake build.


----------



## Rei86

asdf893 said:


> Anyone bummed to hear about the 3090 Super rumors after we're about to invest further into our 3090 KPE's? Imagine a 3090 Super outperforming an optimus 3090 KPE


If you're new to computers, things like this you should get over it.
Its the cycle/circle of tech life.
Get what you can afford/need at that moment and be content, or forever chase and never be content.


----------



## bl4ckdot

Is the foundation waterblock compatible with the future LGA1700 without modification ?


----------



## dng25

Rei86 said:


> If you're new to computers, things like this you should get over it.
> Its the cycle/circle of tech life.
> Get what you can afford/need at that moment and be content, or forever chase and never be content.


Nothing new same thing happen with the 980 kingpin


----------



## Section31

bl4ckdot said:


> Is the foundation waterblock compatible with the future LGA1700 without modification ?


Optimus said yes but tag them to confirm


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC can you confirm reports the KPE is delayed another few weeks?



https://forums.evga.com/m/tm.aspx?m=3438555&p=11#/m/tm.aspx?m=3438555&fp=2&p=16


----------



## cptclutch

Forgive my ignorance but I’ve noticed that some games heat up my backplate to the point where it’s too hot to touch. Is this normal behavior? My temps are reporting as low so I assume it’s just a good thing and showing that the backplate is absorbing the heat from the back of the card efficiently. Just have never had my backplate of any card get this hot so want to confirm my card isn’t defective.


----------



## HyperMatrix

cptclutch said:


> Forgive my ignorance but I’ve noticed that some games heat up my backplate to the point where it’s too hot to touch. Is this normal behavior? My temps are reporting as low so I assume it’s just a good thing and showing that the backplate is absorbing the heat from the back of the card efficiently. Just have never had my backplate of any card get this hot so want to confirm my card isn’t defective.


VRAM does heat up quite a bit. Especially on back side. I’ve heard it can hit 100C+. Hence why people are asking for active backplate cooling. While technically being too hot to touch is “normal” in that it happens to many cards…I don’t accept that hitting those temps is completely safe and normal for long term use. XL backplate from Optimus as well as a fan blowing air over it is highly recommended. Had the same problem with the Titan X Pascal cards as well back when they came out. Alternatively you can stick a ram block to your backplate assuming you’re running a custom loop. That had a substantial impact and helped increase OC stability while dropping ram temperatures by 30-40C.


----------



## elbramso

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC can you confirm reports the KPE is delayed another few weeks?
> 
> 
> 
> https://forums.evga.com/m/tm.aspx?m=3438555&p=11#/m/tm.aspx?m=3438555&fp=2&p=16


I'd like to know how many KPE blocks already have been crafted by Optimus. It always reads like: "...guys we have nothing..."


----------



## cptclutch

HyperMatrix said:


> VRAM does heat up quite a bit. Especially on back side. I’ve heard it can hit 100C+. Hence why people are asking for active backplate cooling. While technically being too hot to touch is “normal” in that it happens to many cards…I don’t accept that hitting those temps is completely safe and normal for long term use. XL backplate from Optimus as well as a fan blowing air over it is highly recommended. Had the same problem with the Titan X Pascal cards as well back when they came out. Alternatively you can stick a ram block to your backplate assuming you’re running a custom loop. That had a substantial impact and helped increase OC stability while dropping ram temperatures by 30-40C.


Yeah thats the thing, my VRAM temps and overall GPU temps are still low, its just the backplate getting super hot. I'm just paranoid about frying a GPU currently with what's been going on with the New World issues lately. Really want to make sure I'm not damaging anything and coming from backplates that never really get that hot to something this large being so hot I can't touch it seems like a crazy amount of heat generation. I guess thats just thermodynamics though and as long as my reported VRAM junctions temps are okay I should be good?


----------



## Rei86

dng25 said:


> Nothing new same thing happen with the 980 kingpin


Yup.
Or during Kepler and nVidia had a field day releasing crap that topped one after the other just a few months in-between.

GTX Titan Feb 2013 >
GTX 780 May 2013 >
GTX 780Ti Nov 2013 >
GTX Titan Black Feb 2014 >
And well this really wasn't but for some people that enjoyed having it the GTX Titan Z March 2014 >

GTX 980 Classified Sep 2014
GTX 980 Kingpin Classified Feb 2015
GTX 980Ti Classified June 2015
GTX 980Ti Kingpin July 2015 (dropped the Classified line and all we have now is the FTW and KPE  I missed the old days when EVGA has a billion SKU's for one chip lol)


----------



## dng25

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC can you confirm reports the KPE is delayed another few weeks?
> 
> 
> 
> https://forums.evga.com/m/tm.aspx?m=3438555&p=11#/m/tm.aspx?m=3438555&fp=2&p=16


It's in their update email sent out a a few weeks ago

"
*SHIPPING UPDATE:*

Shipping is still a few more weeks out due to unforeseen issues (detailed below). The team is really sorry for the delays! We always want to get new products released in the previously discussed timeframe, so it kills us when this happens and your builds get held up. We're doing everything we can to speed this along as fast as possible!

_Of course, if you need to cancel to go a different direction, we're sad to see you go, just email us and we'll make it happen right away._

*Why the delay?*
Some of our acrylic stock is held up from the manufacturer. Their latest timeline: "...we should have it here in the next week or two" meaning, 1-2 weeks until the acrylic arrives at distribution and then onto us. Other suppliers are also dealing with delays and shortages, and moving to a lesser grade of acrylic would be unacceptable, so there aren't easy alternative solutions.

Additionally, Fujipoly thermal pads were expected at our factory a month ago (this is for all our products, not just KP). Now: "...there was a shortage in material due to the making the PG product [our backplate pad type]. The entire blanket order is coming in early October where [Fuji then cuts the sizes we need]." We've figured out a solution to get the pads faster, but it's still not immediate.

In the meantime, the entire Optimus team really appreciates you hanging in there! We're incredibly excited about the new Kingpin and hope you will even more thrilled when you finally see it in person! 
"


----------



## Shawnb99

dng25 said:


> It's in their update email sent out a a few weeks ago
> 
> "
> *SHIPPING UPDATE:*
> 
> Shipping is still a few more weeks out due to unforeseen issues (detailed below). The team is really sorry for the delays! We always want to get new products released in the previously discussed timeframe, so it kills us when this happens and your builds get held up. We're doing everything we can to speed this along as fast as possible!
> 
> _Of course, if you need to cancel to go a different direction, we're sad to see you go, just email us and we'll make it happen right away._
> 
> *Why the delay?*
> Some of our acrylic stock is held up from the manufacturer. Their latest timeline: "...we should have it here in the next week or two" meaning, 1-2 weeks until the acrylic arrives at distribution and then onto us. Other suppliers are also dealing with delays and shortages, and moving to a lesser grade of acrylic would be unacceptable, so there aren't easy alternative solutions.
> 
> Additionally, Fujipoly thermal pads were expected at our factory a month ago (this is for all our products, not just KP). Now: "...there was a shortage in material due to the making the PG product [our backplate pad type]. The entire blanket order is coming in early October where [Fuji then cuts the sizes we need]." We've figured out a solution to get the pads faster, but it's still not immediate.
> 
> In the meantime, the entire Optimus team really appreciates you hanging in there! We're incredibly excited about the new Kingpin and hope you will even more thrilled when you finally see it in person!
> "


Not talking about that but thanks for reposting it. I was only the one to first post the ordinal delay but thanks I guess.

There is a new claim of a delay on the EVGA forum hence why I asked directly.


----------



## dng25

Shawnb99 said:


> Not talking about that but thanks for reposting it. I was only the one to first post the ordinal delay but thanks I guess.
> 
> There is a new claim of a delay on the EVGA forum hence why I asked directly.


It's referring to the same delay noted in the email.

They're probably referring to this tweet, which is the same day that they sent out the email updating everyone.


----------



## Shawnb99

dng25 said:


> It's referring to the same delay noted in the email.
> 
> They're probably referring to this tweet, which is the same day that they sent out the email updating everyone.


I hope so as well, hence why I asked for confirmation


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I hope so as well, hence why I asked for confirmation


I suspect most individuals here are among the biggest spenders on watercooling lol. That's increasingly the impression i get lol. Should call this the ultra enuthiast watercooling spending thread.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> I suspect most individuals here are among the biggest spenders on watercooling lol. That's increasingly the impression i get lol. Should call this the ultra enuthiast watercooling spending thread.


I’ve only spent 6K-7K on water cooling this year. No idea what you’re talking about.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I’ve only spent 6K-7K on water cooling this year. No idea what you’re talking about.


Welcome to the club of ultra enuthiast lol


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> I’ve only spent 6K-7K on water cooling this year. No idea what you’re talking about.


Is that Canadian? I wouldn’t know how to spend that much without going full industrial. All Swagelok 316L piping and fittings. Full PLC control running on Wonderware with automated CIP and SIP. Clamp-on ultrasonic flow meters. RO system. TOC and conductivity monitoring. All in a stainless steel cabinet that would make a TH10 look like a wooden china cabinet.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Is that Canadian? I wouldn’t know how to spend that much without going full industrial. All Swagelok 316L piping and fittings. Full PLC control running on Wonderware with automated CIP and SIP. Clamp-on ultrasonic flow meters. RO system. TOC and conductivity monitoring. All in a stainless steel cabinet that would make a TH10 look like a wooden china cabinet.


Canadian. Issue with us is shipping and taxes add up. Currency rate doesn't help us either.


----------



## HyperMatrix

0451 said:


> Is that Canadian? I wouldn’t know how to spend that much without going full industrial. All Swagelok 316L piping and fittings. Full PLC control running on Wonderware with automated CIP and SIP. Clamp-on ultrasonic flow meters. RO system. TOC and conductivity monitoring. All in a stainless steel cabinet that would make a TH10 look like a wooden china cabinet.


Corsair 1000D
4x HWL GTR radiators
30x Vardar fans
2x Aquacomputer Ultitube 200mm D5 Next RGB
1x Aquacomputer Ultitop D5 Next RGB
1x Aquacomputer Flow Next
2x Aquacomputer Octo
1x Optimus Signature V2
1x Optimus KPE Signature Blockstrosity
Another $1500+ in fittings/couplers/tubing/coolant/TIM. And this is with me re-using about $1200 in previous Koolance QD3 fittings.

Also during the build I had bought an EK radiator and Aquacomputer CPU block that are just sitting here doing nothing.

But yeah as Section31 said the shipping cost on every order, along with subsequent brokerage fees/taxes doesn't help. Lol.


----------



## chibi

Our maple dollars worth nothing doesn't help either!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> Corsair 1000D
> 4x HWL GTR radiators
> 30x Vardar fans
> 2x Aquacomputer Ultitube 200mm D5 Next RGB
> 1x Aquacomputer Ultitop D5 Next RGB
> 1x Aquacomputer Flow Next
> 2x Aquacomputer Octo
> 1x Optimus Signature V2
> 1x Optimus KPE Signature Blockstrosity
> Another $1500+ in fittings/couplers/tubing/coolant/TIM. And this is with me re-using about $1200 in previous Koolance QD3 fittings.
> 
> Also during the build I had bought an EK radiator and Aquacomputer CPU block that are just sitting here doing nothing.
> 
> But yeah as Section31 said the shipping cost on every order, along with subsequent brokerage fees/taxes doesn't help. Lol.


I’d love to see your build. Do you have pics? I looked up the Flow Next and apparently it has a conductivity sensor. I’ll have to pick one up.


----------



## chibi

0451 said:


> I’d love to see your build. Do you have pics? I looked up the Flow Next and apparently it has a conductivity sensor. I’ll have to pick one up.


Do a bit more research on that one. I did a _quick_ run through the specs and thought wow, this is awesome and ordered one as well. Turns out, it's only compatible with specific fluids. I then sold it off and bought the Flow v2 meter instead as it's no RGB and does pretty much the same functions without the display and conductivity meter.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> I’d love to see your build. Do you have pics? I looked up the Flow Next and apparently it has a conductivity sensor. I’ll have to pick one up.


It's an big magic sensor lol. I'm not really sure how helpful it is honestly. It's flow and temp sensor. To give you idea how it performs.

Lows 20's: Distilled Water. Useful for Distiled Water lol.
40-50's: Mayhem XTR 4nm
80-90s: Distilled Water + Mayhem XT-1/X1 Clear
120's: Distilled Water + Dazmode Protector

Performance Etc no difference noted. The Waterquality, I think me and Shawnb99 gave up on it and just modified aquasuite figures to always show 100%. The Flow V2 is probably better one imo.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Corsair 1000D
> 4x HWL GTR radiators
> 30x Vardar fans
> 2x Aquacomputer Ultitube 200mm D5 Next RGB
> 1x Aquacomputer Ultitop D5 Next RGB
> 1x Aquacomputer Flow Next
> 2x Aquacomputer Octo
> 1x Optimus Signature V2
> 1x Optimus KPE Signature Blockstrosity
> Another $1500+ in fittings/couplers/tubing/coolant/TIM. And this is with me re-using about $1200 in previous Koolance QD3 fittings.
> 
> Also during the build I had bought an EK radiator and Aquacomputer CPU block that are just sitting here doing nothing.
> 
> But yeah as Section31 said the shipping cost on every order, along with subsequent brokerage fees/taxes doesn't help. Lol.


Common. The watercooling excess we build up too easy. How often do I just throw it out in the end.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

chibi said:


> Do a bit more research on that one. I did a _quick_ run through the specs and thought wow, this is awesome and ordered one as well. Turns out, it's only compatible with specific fluids. I then sold it off and bought the Flow v2 meter instead as it's no RGB and does pretty much the same functions without the display and conductivity meter.





Section31 said:


> It's an big magic sensor lol. I'm not really sure how helpful it is honestly. It's flow and temp sensor. To give you idea how it performs.
> 
> Lows 20's: Distilled Water. Useful for Distiled Water lol.
> 40-50's: Mayhem XTR 4nm
> 80-90s: Distilled Water + Mayhem XT-1/X1 Clear
> 120's: Distilled Water + Dazmode Protector
> 
> Performance Etc no difference noted. The Waterquality, I think me and Shawnb99 gave up on it and just modified aquasuite figures to always show 100%. The Flow V2 is probably better one imo.


Thanks for the tip. Can the flow V2 plug directly into the D5 NEXT to display flow rate?


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Thanks for the tip. Can the flow V2 plug directly into the D5 NEXT to display flow rate?


It can only plug into the octo/quadro and with adapter cable aq6. The only place i think next flow sensor is perfect for is for Mo-Ra3 External Radiator where you want to see flow rate/temperature coming out of the external unit.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Do a bit more research on that one. I did a _quick_ run through the specs and thought wow, this is awesome and ordered one as well. Turns out, it's only compatible with specific fluids. I then sold it off and bought the Flow v2 meter instead as it's no RGB and does pretty much the same functions without the display and conductivity meter.


On the otherhand, your next flow meter really came in handy with my friends build but as the going says. Next Flow Meter is best paired with PWM D5.


----------



## HyperMatrix

0451 said:


> I’d love to see your build. Do you have pics? I looked up the Flow Next and apparently it has a conductivity sensor. I’ll have to pick one up.


Well it looks a bit odd right now because I have my Kingpin Hybrid kit hanging off the side of the case with cables running over top of the case to reach a 30W per channel fan controller for the 21W Delta fans I have cooling it right now. Haha. Really need that Optimus block to get here.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> Well it looks a bit odd right now because I have my Kingpin Hybrid kit hanging off the side of the case with cables running over top of the case to reach a 30W per channel fan controller for the 21W Delta fans I have cooling it right now. Haha. Really need that Optimus block to get here.
> 
> View attachment 2527622


I did the same thing with my AIO before I got my block. After my radiator-ectomy, I don't know what to do with all the extra space in my midtower. What's the white stuff on your AIO fins?


----------



## HyperMatrix

0451 said:


> What's the white stuff on your AIO fins?


Haha. Dander. Got dogs. Put 2x large area air purifiers on each side of the computer and have the filters on the case. But poor AIO rad sticking out there on its own gets coated. Didn’t even notice it until I went back there to take a pic.

I’ve been contemplating _adding_ a mo-ra3 to the build. Was playing with a friend’s shunt modded 3090 last week and even with fans going full blast 3000RPM the water heats up a bit more than I’d like. Did you drill in the holes for quick connects on the back of your case?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> Haha. Dander. Got dogs. Put 2x large area air purifiers on each side of the computer and have the filters on the case. But poor AIO rad sticking out there on its own gets coated. Didn’t even notice it until I went back there to take a pic.
> 
> I’ve been contemplating _adding_ a mo-ra3 to the build. Was playing with a friend’s shunt modded 3090 last week and even with fans going full blast 3000RPM the water heats up a bit more than I’d like. Did you drill in the holes for quick connects on the back of your case?


Yes, I drilled in the sturdiest part of the case and added washers on the inside. It is super sturdy and doesn't flex at all. An 11/16" drill bit makes the perfect size hole. I also made a sturdy 6-pin power socket and a long cable. The MO-RA only requires this power connection because I use the D5 NEXT to control the fans.


----------



## HyperMatrix

0451 said:


> Yes, I drilled in the sturdiest part of the case and added washers on the inside. It is super sturdy and doesn't flex at all. An 11/16" drill bit makes the perfect size hole. I also made a sturdy 6-pin power socket and a long cable. The MO-RA only requires this power connection because I use the D5 NEXT to control the fans.


Yeah that's definitely tempting to do. I'll make the final decision on whether to do it or not after I receive the Optimus Kingpin block. I'm 8th in line on the preorders so hopefully I'll have it by next summer.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Well it looks a bit odd right now because I have my Kingpin Hybrid kit hanging off the side of the case with cables running over top of the case to reach a 30W per channel fan controller for the 21W Delta fans I have cooling it right now. Haha. Really need that Optimus block to get here.
> 
> View attachment 2527622


You need an caselabs. Look at cennis2018 mini mo-ra using watercool new internal rads. Really cool diy external rad.


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/p44bub


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> You need an caselabs. Look at cennis2018 mini mo-ra using watercool new internal rads. Really cool diy external rad.
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/p44bub


I’ve honestly never been a fan of caselabs. Just looks like a box you can mount things in. I like big monster cases like the 1000D. Plenty of room. Looks amazing. Caselabs is like Supreme to me. People like it because other people like it. Not that there’s anything wrong with the cases. From what I’ve heard the quality was great. Functionality was also great. But it’s not the end all be all that some hardcore fans keep talking about.

If they were that far ahead of others and were making such a superior product, one of the other big name case builders would have bought out their assets. Instead you have some small time guy (no offense to him) buying it after several years hoping to build it back for the niche market that is people like you (also no offense, haha).

Just never been a fan of their esthetics. But that’s just me. Sure some people like LiquidHaus could do fancy builds that look amazing in them. But that’s more a reflection of their work than the case.

I love looking at this case.








And with slide out trays for the radiators and plenty of room to mount reservoirs and run cables and tubing behind it, I’ve been supremely happy with it.









With a couple quick disconnects I can easily pull out the entire radiator tray. That on its own is worth a lot to me.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I’ve honestly never been a fan of caselabs. Just looks like a box you can mount things in. I like big monster cases like the 1000D. Plenty of room. Looks amazing. Caselabs is like Supreme to me. People like it because other people like it. Not that there’s anything wrong with the cases. From what I’ve heard the quality was great. Functionality was also great. But it’s not the end all be all that some hardcore fans keep talking about.
> 
> If they were that far ahead of others and were making such a superior product, one of the other big name case builders would have bought out their assets. Instead you have some small time guy (no offense to him) buying it after several years hoping to build it back for the niche market that is people like you (also no offense, haha).
> 
> Just never been a fan of their esthetics. But that’s just me. Sure some people like LiquidHaus could do fancy builds that look amazing in them. But that’s more a reflection of their work than the case.
> 
> I love looking at this case.
> View attachment 2527649
> 
> And with slide out trays for the radiators and plenty of room to mount reservoirs and run cables and tubing behind it, I’ve been supremely happy with it.
> 
> View attachment 2527650
> 
> With a couple quick disconnects I can easily pull out the entire radiator tray. That on its own is worth a lot to me.


Thats very true. In this hobby, everyone has there own preferences. Nice modular design you have setup.

In regards to external radiator i kind of prefer the diy scene where converting internal rads is best, You still get good cooling but don’t have to deal with the flow restriction and increased size the mo-ra3 420 takes up.


----------



## ciarlatano

Section31 said:


> Thats very true. In this hobby, everyone has there own preferences.


Exactly. Aesthetics are *very *subjective in all things. I'm personally not a fan of the looks of CaseLabs, and also not a fan of the 1000D. However, I would never question CaseLabs build quality - they truly are among the, if not the best.


----------



## LiquidHaus

"Ultra Enthusiast", heh.

Patiently waiting for the KPE block.


----------



## dng25

How many people have evga's waterblock (assuming you got the hybrid) and also have placed an order for the optimus block?


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I’ve honestly never been a fan of caselabs. Just looks like a box you can mount things in. I like big monster cases like the 1000D. Plenty of room. Looks amazing. Caselabs is like Supreme to me. People like it because other people like it. Not that there’s anything wrong with the cases. From what I’ve heard the quality was great. Functionality was also great. But it’s not the end all be all that some hardcore fans keep talking about.
> 
> If they were that far ahead of others and were making such a superior product, one of the other big name case builders would have bought out their assets. Instead you have some small time guy (no offense to him) buying it after several years hoping to build it back for the niche market that is people like you (also no offense, haha).
> 
> Just never been a fan of their esthetics. But that’s just me. Sure some people like LiquidHaus could do fancy builds that look amazing in them. But that’s more a reflection of their work than the case.
> 
> I love looking at this case.
> View attachment 2527649
> 
> And with slide out trays for the radiators and plenty of room to mount reservoirs and run cables and tubing behind it, I’ve been supremely happy with it.
> 
> View attachment 2527650
> 
> With a couple quick disconnects I can easily pull out the entire radiator tray. That on its own is worth a lot to me.


I think you need to go into the custom pc case business, start up an company making custom cases. You definitely would get business from the Optimus Owners here.


----------



## Section31

dng25 said:


> How many people have evga's waterblock (assuming you got the hybrid) and also have placed an order for the optimus block?


I think not many have it except the Kingpin group. The kingpin owners here have placed optimus block orders i am sure.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

@Optimus WC Planning to snag an Intel v2 nickel (blemish version) to use with RockIt Cool's 10th gen direct die kit. Any feedback or info from customers who have used this specific combo or anything I should know?


----------



## Section31

Damn. Tygon a60 with Optimus Satin Black. Nice match. Fits perfect unlike zmt


----------



## asdf893

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2527920
> 
> 
> Damn. Tygon a60 with Optimus Satin Black. Nice match. Fits perfect unlike zmt


that looks awesome!


----------



## elbramso

Quick question on the Optimus KPE Blocks:
Did Optimus change your order to match your finish choice? I'm just wondering because my order is still named: "Signature GPU Block - Kingpin 3090 - Satin Nickel / Active Waterblock"


----------



## ciarlatano

Section31 said:


> Damn. Tygon a60 with Optimus Satin Black. Nice match. Fits perfect unlike zmt


Those fittings look great!

And ZMT is complete garbage and always out of spec.


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2527920
> 
> 
> Damn. Tygon a60 with Optimus Satin Black. Nice match. Fits perfect unlike zmt



Nice, MMC shipping is so fast. I couldn't believe they over night it to our shop when I ordered last month.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Yup ZMT is really dirty too. Gotta flush out the dang tubing before loop use, ridiculous. McMaster EPDM tubing is the best, imo.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Yup ZMT is really dirty too. Gotta flush out the dang tubing before loop use, ridiculous. McMaster EPDM tubing is the best, imo.


Thanks.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2527920
> 
> 
> Damn. Tygon a60 with Optimus Satin Black. Nice match. Fits perfect unlike zmt


Oh no it has letteri


LiquidHaus said:


> Yup ZMT is really dirty too. Gotta flush out the dang tubing before loop use, ridiculous. McMaster EPDM tubing is the best, imo.


I also use McMaster EPDM.


----------



## dng25

elbramso said:


> Quick question on the Optimus KPE Blocks:
> Did Optimus change your order to match your finish choice? I'm just wondering because my order is still named: "Signature GPU Block - Kingpin 3090 - Satin Nickel / Active Waterblock"


They updated mine like a few days after I sent them my choices.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Oh no it has letteri
> 
> I also use McMaster EPDM.


You need to get full time into watercooling building business. Look at those new watercoolers looking for help to build water cooled PC's lol. They will pay you a lot for your labour services.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Oh no it has letteri
> 
> I also use McMaster EPDM.


Good to know. In fact, i have been speaking with others and showed them your Mo-Ra3 work, they built already but would have asked you to build there rig. Would have paid a lot too. Next time.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Good to know. In fact, i have been speaking with others and showed them your Mo-Ra3 work, they built already but would have asked you to build there rig. Would have paid a lot too. Next time.


Cool, let me know if anyone wants something similar.


----------



## KCDC

OT, but since it's been brought up here a few times, I've been using zmt 5/8 3/8 on my 5/8-3/8 ek torque fittings and it's very snug which I prefer.

McMaster's closest to that is 5/8 7/16








McMaster-Carr


McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




www.mcmaster.com





Want to ask if this will be close to the same snug fitness or if I now need other fittings to get the same fit. Thanks!


----------



## dng25

KCDC said:


> OT, but since it's been brought up here a few times, I've been using zmt 5/8 3/8 on my 5/8-3/8 ek torque fittings and it's very snug which I prefer.
> 
> McMaster's closest to that is 5/8 7/16
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.mcmaster.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Want to ask if this will be close to the same snug fitness or if I now need other fittings to get the same fit. Thanks!











McMaster-Carr


McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




www.mcmaster.com





Here's a 5/8 3/8 one


----------



## chibi

Doing some test fitting and oh boy, it's close! There is less than a mm of clearance lol. I don't think T30-120 are in the the works anymore if I want to keep this layout. Will try some other configs later once I have some more time.


----------



## criskoe

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, we're working on an email, lots to go through with your system!


Could you please look into this again please. I Still have not received anything from your team. Its approaching 15 Business days and still radio silence. Testing someone's patience for this long is crazy. Will you guys just let me buy the dam screws, gaskets and what ever else I need for these blocks so I can get on with my dam life.


----------



## Optimus WC

criskoe said:


> Could you please look into this again please. I Still have not received anything from your team. Its approaching 15 Business days and still radio silence. Testing someone's patience for this long is crazy. Will you guys just let me buy the dam screws, gaskets and what ever else I need for these blocks so I can get on with my dam life.


Responded! We'll send you out replacement screws/gaskets to try tomorrow. We've talked internally and don't have 100% answers to your questions unless we get the parts back to examine. Regardless, we'll just send you new stuff tomorrow so you can get your build up and running. And sorry for the back and forth in the emails, good thoughts on a ticket system, we're looking into it to get it integrated with the rest of our software.


----------



## criskoe

Optimus WC said:


> Responded! We'll send you out replacement screws/gaskets to try tomorrow. We've talked internally and don't have 100% answers to your questions unless we get the parts back to examine. Regardless, we'll just send you new stuff tomorrow so you can get your build up and running. And sorry for the back and forth in the emails, good thoughts on a ticket system, we're looking into it to get it integrated with the rest of our software.


 Got the email. Thank you. Hopefully I can get the replacements soon! I appreciate you finally getting me some traction.


----------



## elbramso

dng25 said:


> They updated mine like a few days after I sent them my choices.


Thanks for letting me know.


----------



## KCDC

dng25 said:


> McMaster-Carr
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.mcmaster.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a 5/8 3/8 one


Thanks!


----------



## Biggu

Id really love to get some of the McMaster tubing but I'm using really old bits power fittings that are 7/16” ID, OD 5/8” so I'm very limited in my choices.


----------



## KCDC

Biggu said:


> Id really love to get some of the McMaster tubing but I'm using really old bits power fittings that are 7/16” ID, OD 5/8” so I'm very limited in my choices.


Check my post a few up, that's what I initially found









McMaster-Carr


McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




www.mcmaster.com


----------



## Biggu

KCDC said:


> Check my post a few up, that's what I initially found
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.mcmaster.com


Yea, I think what you posted is actually a foam tube if I'm reading that right.


----------



## KCDC

my bad, disregard


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Biggu said:


> Yea, I think what you posted is actually a foam tube if I'm reading that right.


This is the correct tubing. Scroll down to opaque EPDM rubber.









McMaster-Carr


McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




www.mcmaster.com


----------



## LiquidHaus

The SKU for the EPDM I use is '9776T11'


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> The SKU for the EPDM I use is '9776T11'


Is it satin black or matte black in images. Might order some myself if you recommend so much. Replace all my soft tubing


----------



## Voodoo Hoodoo

A quick shoutout to Optimus..

I just replaced an EKWB Vector on my EVGA 3090 FTW3 and GPU temp has gone down 12 degrees Celsius. 

Pushing frames @ 1440p, I see a max of 36 degrees on the GPU with a water temp delta around 10 degrees.

This is on 2 x 480 Rads with Noctua fans.

Great work and engineering.


----------



## dwolvin

Pics please!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Section31 said:


> Is it satin black or matte black in images. Might order some myself if you recommend so much. Replace all my soft tubing












It's more satin than matte, but it can "scuff" more easily than ZMT. When it's scuffed, it appears matte. You can see the slight scuffs in the tubing in the pic above. Doesn't really bother me though.


----------



## chibi

Hey @Optimus WC, I just opened my Sig v2 and it looks like the black foam has broken down and fell into the CPU in/outlet ports. Not a big deal, but thought I'd give you a heads up. Perhaps installing those plastic stop fittings or a film over top to further protect the finish and ports from debris would be an idea.

In the CPU ports










Foam specs littered the box, lift up the foam to access the hardware compartment and there's a bunch there too.


----------



## JustinThyme

Make sure you pull the cold plate and clean it thoroughly. I took them at their word...big mistake. Dust, dirt and rubber foam was the least of it. I see you got the copper cold plate so at least you dont have to worry about the electroless plating guaranteed not to flake peel off like a banana peel and end up in your loop. I still highly recommend an inline filter regardless of who makes what parts. An ounce of prevention thing. Much easier to pull and clean a filter than tear down all your blocks and clean them out.


----------



## zzztopzzz

JustinThyme said:


> Make sure you pull the cold plate and clean it thoroughly. I took them at their word...big mistake. Dust, dirt and rubber foam was the least of it. I see you got the copper cold plate so at least you dont have to worry about the electroless plating guaranteed not to flake peel off like a banana peel and end up in your loop. I still highly recommend an inline filter regardless of who makes what parts. An ounce of prevention thing. Much easier to pull and clean a filter than tear down all your blocks and clean them out.


What filter do you recommend?


----------



## Shawnb99

zzztopzzz said:


> What filter do you recommend?


One with an easy to remove filter is the Aquacomputer one but it's very restrictive. Otherwise the less restrictive one I'd say would be in the Ultitube reservoirs


----------



## Section31

Nean


Shawnb99 said:


> One with an easy to remove filter is the Aquacomputer one but it's very restrictive. Otherwise the less restrictive one I'd say would be in the Ultitube reservoirs


You can buy ceratoke cpu blocks. Nevermind did it.


----------



## JustinThyme

zzztopzzz said:


> What filter do you recommend?


Im using the aquacomputer because it has isolation valves built in. Cant speak to how restrictive it is because I didnt do a before and after and run enough D5 pumps to where restrictions don't matter.









Aquacomputer Filter with Stainless Steel Mesh, Ball Valves and Mounting Plate G1/4


This filter unit from Aquacomputer has a great advantage in practicality compared to standard, more simple, filters. Two integrated valves allows easy cleaning of the filter without draining of the whole system. The stainless steel filter mesh with an exceptionally large surface area is...




www.performance-pcs.com





You can pull the stainless face plate and they have an extra large face plate available to mount it in a case cut out if you want. I just have it floating with the stainless off.

There are others that are just inline without valves but If you go that route Id recommened ball valves up and down stream so you dont have to drain the whole loop. The ball valves cost more each than the aquacomputer filter with valves in it.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Nean
> 
> 
> You can buy ceratoke cpu blocks. Nevermind did it.


Is the water-touching part of the CPU block cerakote? I'd be interested to compare thermals to my nickel Sig V2 and EK Supremacy EVO. I have a cerakote olympic weightlifting bar and it doesn't feel as cold in my hands as my bare steel bar.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Is the water-touching part of the CPU block cerakote? I'd be interested to compare thermals to my nickel Sig V2 and EK Supremacy EVO. I have a cerakote olympic weightlifting bar and it doesn't feel as cold in my hands as my bare steel bar.


I think so for both cpu and gpu block. Coldplate remains nickel/copper. It will be an while lol. Still waiting for alderlake lol


----------



## criskoe

Cause they are still going to be using their normal nickel plated or bare copper coldplates, performance most likely will be exactly the the same. That would be my guess. Same goes for their GPU coldplates. If there is a difference I bet that it will be within margin of error.


----------



## dng25

JustinThyme said:


> Im using the aquacomputer because it has isolation valves built in. Cant speak to how restrictive it is because I didnt do a before and after and run enough D5 pumps to where restrictions don't matter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer Filter with Stainless Steel Mesh, Ball Valves and Mounting Plate G1/4
> 
> 
> This filter unit from Aquacomputer has a great advantage in practicality compared to standard, more simple, filters. Two integrated valves allows easy cleaning of the filter without draining of the whole system. The stainless steel filter mesh with an exceptionally large surface area is...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can pull the stainless face plate and they have an extra large face plate available to mount it in a case cut out if you want. I just have it floating with the stainless off.
> 
> There are others that are just inline without valves but If you go that route Id recommened ball valves up and down stream so you dont have to drain the whole loop. The ball valves cost more each than the aquacomputer filter with valves in it.


imo if you need to clean out the filter you should just drain the system and use new fluid.


----------



## JustinThyme

dng25 said:


> imo if you need to clean out the filter you should just drain the system and use new fluid.


Kind of defeats the purpose of using a filter. May as well just skip it, drain the loop, pull all the blocks, do a temporary replumb to flush the rads and disassemble all your blocks and clean them out......or just use a filter where you can catch the crap and not have to change the fluid. To each his own. Ive only had to clean it once.......after installing a sig V2. my flow rates cut in half, cleaned filter, problem solved and didn't change out $100 worth of coolant.


----------



## dng25

JustinThyme said:


> Kind of defeats the purpose of using a filter. May as well just skip it, drain the loop, pull all the blocks, do a temporary replumb to flush the rads and disassemble all your blocks and clean them out......or just use a filter where you can catch the crap and not have to change the fluid. To each his own. Ive only had to clean it once.......after installing a sig V2. my flow rates cut in half, cleaned filter, problem solved and didn't change out $100 worth of coolant.


It still prevents waterblock from getting massively clogged. The dirty filter is just indication of the water quality. And for me swapping out fluid only takes like 5-10 minutes. Compared to couple of hours striping out all the blocks and cleaning them.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC I’d like to order a Matt black Sig2 replacement top.
I have to ask here since you guys never respond to any of my emails no matter how many I send.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC I’d like to order a Matt black Sig2 replacement top.
> I have to ask here since you guys never respond to any of my emails no matter how many I send.


I may have another individual interested too, maybe we can spilt shipping lol.


----------



## Section31

For those in canada and wanting optimus in east coast, there’s some interest among members of successful watercool rad groupbuy for there ceratoke and other products. Can provide details privately if interested.


----------



## JustinThyme

dng25 said:


> It still prevents waterblock from getting massively clogged. The dirty filter is just indication of the water quality. And for me swapping out fluid only takes like 5-10 minutes. Compared to couple of hours striping out all the blocks and cleaning them.


My Aquaero Next flow meter measures coolant quality/conductivity. If I got a sharp drop there I would certainly change out coolant that's indicative of dissolved particulates that will get past a filter. What the filter is for is to stop the CHUNKS that shed from blocks like what I had happen with a Sig V2 cold plate. Its just a piece of fine screen mesh that would eventually lead to blocks getting clogged if I didn't have the filter. Been there and done that and it sucked bawlz breaking down blocks for cleaning. Install filter to keep the fin blocking chunks out, if water quality takes a nose dive I get an alarm. Only time my quality has dipped was when using plain DW with an antimicrobial additive. I use Mayhems coolants and no issues. Part of my routine maintenance is to change it out once a year, takes me more like a couple of hours to get all the air pockets out. Thats a drain, discard old coolant, fill with DW and run a day, drain and discard then fill with DW again and run a day then drain and discard then fill up with Mayhems coolant. I use the pastel red.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> My Aquaero Next flow meter measures coolant quality/conductivity. If I got a sharp drop there I would certainly change out coolant that's indicative of dissolved particulates that will get past a filter. What the filter is for is to stop the CHUNKS that shed from blocks like what I had happen with a Sig V2 cold plate. Its just a piece of fine screen mesh that would eventually lead to blocks getting clogged if I didn't have the filter. Been there and done that and it sucked bawlz breaking down blocks for cleaning. Install filter to keep the fin blocking chunks out, if water quality takes a nose dive I get an alarm. Only time my quality has dipped was when using plain DW with an antimicrobial additive. I use Mayhems coolants and no issues. Part of my routine maintenance is to change it out once a year, takes me more like a couple of hours to get all the air pockets out. Thats a drain, discard old coolant, fill with DW and run a day, drain and discard then fill with DW again and run a day then drain and discard then fill up with Mayhems coolant. I use the pastel red.


Mayhem whole lineup been almost discontinued and new products coming out. I was looking for pastel white but guess what discontinued.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Mayhem whole lineup been almost discontinued and new products coming out. I was looking for pastel white but guess what discontinued.


I have 6 quarts of pastel red premix waiting on me to finish up my MORA install. Just finished up on my Harley Davidson this afternoon so I can get some wind therapy before it gets too cold. Prime riding time for the next couple of months. I enjoy the spring and the fall. To cold in the winter and too hot in the summer. Fine when you are moving but when you come to a stop the heat coming up off the asphalt sucks and when its really hot its like being in a convection oven. 50-70F is my favorite. Only thing you have to watch out for is wet leaves in the fall and the butt heads that blow their grass clipping into the street once the grass starts getting up in the spring. May as well be riding on ice. Went for a nice long ride after I finished up in the Pocono mountains.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I have 6 quarts of pastel red premix waiting on me to finish up my MORA install. Just finished up on my Harley Davidson this afternoon so I can get some wind therapy before it gets too cold. Prime riding time for the next couple of months. I enjoy the spring and the fall. To cold in the winter and too hot in the summer. Fine when you are moving but when you come to a stop the heat coming up off the asphalt sucks and when its really hot its like being in a convection oven. 50-70F is my favorite. Only thing you have to watch out for is wet leaves in the fall and the butt heads that blow their grass clipping into the street once the grass starts getting up in the spring. May as well be riding on ice. Went for a nice long ride after I finished up in the Pocono mountains.


Nice. Crazy we have to stock up on solutions now. Its always nice going out for joy rides (motorcycle, harley, cars). Bit of personal time/space from daily life adventures.


----------



## lostsupper

LiquidHaus said:


> "Ultra Enthusiast", heh.
> 
> Patiently waiting for the KPE block.


What case/frame is this?


----------



## chibi

Noctua released their Chromax NF-A12x25 today. Just ordered a set!






Noctua presents chromax line NF-A12x25 fan, NH-U12A cooler and heatsink covers


Designed in Austria, Noctua's premium cooling components are renowned for their superb quietness, exceptional performance and thoroughgoing quality.




noctua.at













NF-A12x25 PWM chromax.black.swap


Having received more than 100 awards and recommendations from international hardware websites and magazines, Noctua’s flagship model NF-A12x25 has established itself as a true deluxe choice when it comes to premium-quality quiet 120mm fans. Various state-of-the-art technologies and a record...




noctua.at


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Wow that press release is a massive wall of text for what amounts to a black version of a brown fan. Noctua must be sweating profusely over the Phanteks T30.


----------



## chibi

Regardless, it was only 3 years in the making. Glad the T30's came out to give Noctua a kick in the butt to get these out asap. I was trying to order the T30's for their daisy chain ability as that's one of the big features I liked over the Noctua's. Unfortunately, my case does not support the extra depth for my rad and fan placements. I was thinking of hack up the case to make the T30's fit but now I'll just replace my brown fans and call it a day.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

chibi said:


> Regardless, it was only 3 years in the making. Glad the T30's came out to give Noctua a kick in the butt to get these out asap. I was trying to order the T30's for their daisy chain ability as that's one of the big features I liked over the Noctua's. Unfortunately, my case does not support the extra width for my rad and fan placements. I was thinking of hack up the case to make the T30's fit but now I'll just replace my brown fans and call it a day.
> 
> View attachment 2528484


Why not paint the fans instead? Barefooter wrote how to paint Noctuas in his Big Red Devastator build log.


----------



## chibi

Not interested in taking the fans apart. Also, there's something to be said about fan blade balancing, turbulence, noise signature that I'm confident painting them would obscure some what that it's just not worth it to me. Another $450 in fans isn't going to break the bank so at worst case, I'll have 10 extra brown hot spares.

PS - @Optimus WC really needs to come out with angled fittings/rotaries. These 90's don't match the flex compression fittings at all lol.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

chibi said:


> Not interested in taking the fans apart. Also, there's something to be said about fan blade balancing, turbulence, noise signature that I'm confident painting them would obscure some what that it's just not worth it to me. Another $450 in fans isn't going to break the bank so at worst case, I'll have 10 extra brown hot spares.
> 
> PS - @Optimus WC really needs to come out with angled fittings/rotaries. These 90's don't match the flex compression fittings at all lol.


Yeah $450 for a color change is pennies.


----------



## acoustic

chibi said:


> Not interested in taking the fans apart. Also, there's something to be said about fan blade balancing, turbulence, noise signature that I'm confident painting them would obscure some what that it's just not worth it to me. Another $450 in fans isn't going to break the bank so at worst case, I'll have 10 extra brown hot spares.
> 
> PS - @Optimus WC really needs to come out with angled fittings/rotaries. These 90's don't match the flex compression fittings at all lol.


I wish I had your income


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Its always nice going out for joy rides (motorcycle, harley, cars). Bit of personal time/space from daily life adventures.


Yep, my alone time and wind therapy! I spend too much time in a car for work. Average about 2 hours a day. If I could fit what I needed on my bike Id rather go that route but Im not at all fond of riding up in the nuthouse of NYC on a bike. The only good part about my work is I dont do the 9-5 grind in the same place every day. I get to go to a different place every day and see different people. Sometime its nice and other times some of the people are real jerks. Part of my job is dealing with pi$$ed off clients. The financial data centers are the worst. They are all concentrating on who to blame instead of fixing the problem. I usually just let them vent then just say lets get your gear fixed and you guys can spend the rest of the week pointing fingers if you want, not my thing. Im not here to place blame. Im here to get you going again and the more time we spend bickering the less time I have to take care of the real problems.


----------



## JustinThyme

acoustic said:


> I wish I had your income


Expensive hobby. There are some worse, I spend more on Harleys and RC cars than I do PCs. I have about $5K into one RC car that will do 100mph+


----------



## Shawnb99

acoustic said:


> I wish I had your income


I wish fans only cost me $450. I'm looking at about $1500 to replace all mine


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I wish fans only cost me $450. I'm looking at about $1500 to replace all mine


Im almost same as you once i replace the sl140


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> I wish fans only cost me $450. I'm looking at about $1500 to replace all mine


I know that path all too well. Ive reduced my fans dramatically and went for better performing fans. Not that it costs any less. Mine run about $50 each. You get what you pay for especially when it comes to rad fans. Need volume and high static pressure.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Traveling is by far, the biggest consumer of my disposable income. I’m happy with my ML140 pro fans. If I were to buy new fans today, I would still get the same 2K RPM Red ML140pro.


----------



## Section31

Duplicate


----------



## Shawnb99

Still no reply from Optimus btw.


----------



## Biggu

JustinThyme said:


> The financial data centers are the worst. They are all concentrating on who to blame instead of fixing the problem. I usually just let them vent then just say lets get your gear fixed and you guys can spend the rest of the week pointing fingers if you want, not my thing. Im not here to place blame. Im here to get you going again and the more time we spend bickering the less time I have to take care of the real problems.


Worked in IT at a bank for around 4 ish years and never again. The fact that we let some of these idiots be in charge of money is beyond me.


----------



## Rei86

JustinThyme said:


> Expensive hobby. There are some worse, I spend more on Harleys and RC cars than I do PCs. I have about $5K into one RC car that will do 100mph+


a Limitless?


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Worked in IT at a bank for around 4 ish years and never again. The fact that we let some of these idiots be in charge of money is beyond me.


Financial sector jobs are like that. Ruthless. Only join them if your either great analyst (small number of positions) or you are agressive personality (always willing to do what needed to suceed for that bonus/sales target)


----------



## Kana Chan

chibi said:


> Noctua released their Chromax NF-A12x25 today. Just ordered a set!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Noctua presents chromax line NF-A12x25 fan, NH-U12A cooler and heatsink covers
> 
> 
> Designed in Austria, Noctua's premium cooling components are renowned for their superb quietness, exceptional performance and thoroughgoing quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> noctua.at
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NF-A12x25 PWM chromax.black.swap
> 
> 
> Having received more than 100 awards and recommendations from international hardware websites and magazines, Noctua’s flagship model NF-A12x25 has established itself as a true deluxe choice when it comes to premium-quality quiet 120mm fans. Various state-of-the-art technologies and a record...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> noctua.at


It looks like a different fan hub design compared to the original.


----------



## chibi

Kana Chan said:


> It looks like a different fan hub design compared to the original.


Yea, original has the exposed hub ring. This one looks more like a closed off nipple. Not a fan, of the new look, but I'll take it for the colour change.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Yea, original has the exposed hub ring. This one looks more like a closed off nipple. Not a fan, of the new look, but I'll take it for the colour change.


Post pics lol


----------



## chibi

I get my first batch later today, will post later once received.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> I get my first batch later today, will post later once received.


And 140mm A12x25 coming in 2022


----------



## dwolvin

That would be nice (140's, that is)


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> And 140mm A12x25 coming in 2022


So release date of 2026


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> So release date of 2026


It's between T30-140 and 140mm version of A12x25. You should see the ruckus caused here lol.

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/bapcsalescanada/comments/q75lm1

I have these fans and plan to throw them out as soon as T30-140 or 140mm version of A12x25 are out.


----------



## LiquidHaus

FAN-OFF 2021


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> FAN-OFF 2021


2022 - War of 140mm Fans.

Also i have finalized my Alderlake Upgrade (Good thing i sold extra stuff)

12900K
ROG Z690 -Either Strix(High End) or Hero
Gskill DDR5-6400 (CL36)









G.Skill Drops The DDR5 Hammer With Lower Latency Trident Z5 RAM Up To DDR5-6400


Compared to what we have seen so far, G.Skill's new DDR5 memory kits offer relatively tight timings.




hothardware.com


----------



## dwolvin

With the CL being so high it's going to be interesting to see if DDR5 actually improves anything a notable amount.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> It's between T30-140 and 140mm version of A12x25. You should see the ruckus caused here lol.
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/bapcsalescanada/comments/q75lm1
> 
> I have these fans and plan to throw them out as soon as T30-140 or 140mm version of A12x25 are out.



By the time the come out I hope Caselabs will be back up so I’ll have options otherwise just for likely being 25mm I’ll be taking the Noctua’s. Space is limited in the pedestal, 20mm is a bit much.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> 2022 - War of 140mm Fans.
> 
> Also i have finalized my Alderlake Upgrade (Good thing i sold extra stuff)
> 
> 12900K
> ROG Z690 -Either Strix(High End) or Hero
> Gskill DDR5-6400 (CL36)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> G.Skill Drops The DDR5 Hammer With Lower Latency Trident Z5 RAM Up To DDR5-6400
> 
> 
> Compared to what we have seen so far, G.Skill's new DDR5 memory kits offer relatively tight timings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hothardware.com



Need a gen 4 NVME or three. 

I’m looking at the same but EVGA Dark or ASUS Extreme for me if they keep the 90 degree connectors.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Need a gen 4 NVME or three.
> 
> I’m looking at the same but EVGA Dark or ASUS Extreme for me if they keep the 90 degree connectors.


Those are always on sale. I'm waiting for newer nvme to come out first.


----------



## Shawnb99

I want bigger. I like having everything installed rather then redownloading it. Damn big ass games


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I want bigger. I like having everything installed rather then redownloading it. Damn big ass games


Next Gen will see 2TB-4Tb come down in price big time. Faster, Cooler and reduced latency. Wait for them.









r/NewMaxx


r/NewMaxx: The community for SSD discussion by /u/NewMaxx. Everyone may post in the SSD Help thread or reply to posts. Request to Post is for …




www.reddit.com


----------



## chibi

Anyone here have a lead for a 3090 Kingpin? Preferably new and ship to Canada


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> I have these fans and plan to throw them out as soon as T30-140 or 140mm version of A12x25 are out.


Bad fans?

I disliked the RGB (I don't like lots of lights or any for that matter), but the daisy chaining looked interesting. I'm getting ready to start buying stuff to finish my rig now that work check stuff is sorted out...only took 8 fracking months.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

chibi said:


> Anyone here have a lead for a 3090 Kingpin? Preferably new and ship to Canada


I would have had a NIB one if you asked a week ago. Do you have a block but no card?


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Bad fans?
> 
> I disliked the RGB (I don't like lots of lights or any for that matter), but the daisy chaining looked interesting. I'm getting ready to start buying stuff to finish my rig now that work check stuff is sorted out.


disappointing performance lol. Look at its static pressure lol. 1.67 H20


----------



## chibi

0451 said:


> I would have had a NIB one if you asked a week ago. Do you have a block but no card?


I wish, no block and no card. Pretty sure no one has the KP block from Optimus yet.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> disappointing performance lol. Look at its static pressure lol. 1.67 H20


Good to know lol.

Yeah that is disappointing. I'm looking at P12's or Silent Wing 3's probably. I don't run full speed so I like to optimize performance with silence. P12's are enticing just because of cost/value factor, but not sure if best fit for me given some feedback I've heard on noise at certain RPM's.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> 2022 - War of 140mm Fans.
> 
> Also i have finalized my Alderlake Upgrade (Good thing i sold extra stuff)
> 
> 12900K
> ROG Z690 -Either Strix(High End) or Hero
> Gskill DDR5-6400 (CL36)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> G.Skill Drops The DDR5 Hammer With Lower Latency Trident Z5 RAM Up To DDR5-6400
> 
> 
> Compared to what we have seen so far, G.Skill's new DDR5 memory kits offer relatively tight timings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hothardware.com


I’ve thought about it and looked at different memory options. And I’ve decided I’m going with a DDR4 Alderlake motherboard. Even the best DDR5 memory announced so far has 60% more bandwidth, but also 60% higher latency compared to a DDR4-4000-14 set. For any application that doesn’t require high memory bandwidth (as in…any application where your memory bandwidth is not causing a bottleneck) latency will be more important. So I don’t see the point of paying extra money for new ram that will give me lower performance if the main purpose of my build is gaming.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> I’ve thought about it and looked at different memory options. And I’ve decided I’m going with a DDR4 Alderlake motherboard. Even the best DDR5 memory announced so far has 60% more bandwidth, but also 60% higher latency compared to a DDR4-4000-14 set. For any application that doesn’t require high memory bandwidth (as in…any application where your memory bandwidth is not causing a bottleneck) latency will be more important. So I don’t see the point of paying extra money for new ram that will give me lower performance if the main purpose of my build is gaming.


Rumor has it that only low end boards will be DDR4.


----------



## Section31

MDPC-X also money sinkhole lol. So many nice new colors. Just got friends aluminum grey (got one coming for avaitor cable). Damn nice


----------



## HyperMatrix

0451 said:


> Rumor has it that only low end boards will be DDR4.


I’ve seen that from Asus at least so far. Yeah. Figured I’d buy a different brand this time around after using Asus exclusively for over 20 years. If every other brand is doing the same thing, then I’m in trouble and won’t know what to do. Haha. Although boards are generally quite overbuilt for the basic levels of overclocking we’re doing nowadays anyway.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> I’ve seen that from Asus at least so far. Yeah. Figured I’d buy a different brand this time around after using Asus exclusively for over 20 years. If every other brand is doing the same thing, then I’m in trouble and won’t know what to do. Haha. Although boards are generally quite overbuilt for the basic levels of overclocking we’re doing nowadays anyway.


MSI has been giving us a lot of smart power stages at the mid range with the Carbon and Unify. Asus charges more at every feature level.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I’ve thought about it and looked at different memory options. And I’ve decided I’m going with a DDR4 Alderlake motherboard. Even the best DDR5 memory announced so far has 60% more bandwidth, but also 60% higher latency compared to a DDR4-4000-14 set. For any application that doesn’t require high memory bandwidth (as in…any application where your memory bandwidth is not causing a bottleneck) latency will be more important. So I don’t see the point of paying extra money for new ram that will give me lower performance if the main purpose of my build is gaming.


Fair point there. I suspect the Strix will have DDR4 variant. Nice talk that keeps us all involved in the hobby.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> MSI has been giving us a lot of smart power stages at the mid range with the Carbon and Unify. Asus charges more at every feature level.


Motherboard are very personal. Through work i have tried almost all brands but i still prefer Asus. mainly for its rog bios. I just don't want to learn new bios again so easier i stick with Asus.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Motherboard are very personal. Through work i have tried almost all brands but i still prefer Asus. mainly for its rog bios. I just don't want to learn new bios again so easier i stick with Asus.


I had a Z590 Apex but switched to the Asrock Z590 OC Formula and I’m glad I did. Asus bioses would gain or lose performance with each revision. I wasn’t impressed. AsRock nailed it on release and I never felt compelled to update my bios. I think Asus is having their intern write all the bioses.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> I had a Z590 Apex but switched to the Asrock Z590 OC Formula and I’m glad I did. Asus bioses would gain or lose performance with each revision. I wasn’t impressed. AsRock nailed it on release and I never felt compelled to update my bios. I think Asus is having their intern write all the bioses.


What's most important is you are happy with your product lol.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> What's most important is you are happy with your product lol.


What’s most important for me is to smash Apex results which the OCF does.


----------



## chibi

Here are the new chromax fans. Definitely not a fan of the center nipple. The cable is short by default with an extension.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Here are the new chromax fans. Definitely not a fan of the center nipple. The cable is short by default with an extension.
> 
> View attachment 2528668
> 
> View attachment 2528669
> 
> View attachment 2528670
> 
> View attachment 2528671
> 
> View attachment 2528672
> 
> View attachment 2528673


Looks nicer than T30-120


----------



## chibi

The prototype from 2019 looks way better in my opinion.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> The prototype from 2019 looks way better in my opinion.
> 
> View attachment 2528674


Yeah. Time for noctua to release a14x25 lol. I need those sl140 gone


----------



## elbramso

I recently bought a second hand Sig V2 block for my 10900k. Didn't clean the block (
On heavy load the cpu seems to be a bit too hot (imo). At around 280w cpu power draw the cpu temps rise to 94c. CPU is not delidded.
Pumpspeed did not really affect cpu temps (1-2c maybe). Water temps max out at 29c

are seems temps normal for the block?


----------



## dng25

elbramso said:


> I recently bought a second hand Sig V2 block for my 10900k. Didn't clean the block (
> On heavy load the cpu seems to be a bit too hot (imo). At around 280w cpu power draw the cpu temps rise to 94c. CPU is not delidded.
> Pumpspeed did not really affect cpu temps (1-2c maybe). Water temps max out at 29c
> 
> are seems temps normal for the block?


I would definitely take it apart and clean the block. It gets clogged very easily.


----------



## criskoe

elbramso said:


> I recently bought a second hand Sig V2 block for my 10900k. Didn't clean the block (
> On heavy load the cpu seems to be a bit too hot (imo). At around 280w cpu power draw the cpu temps rise to 94c. CPU is not delidded.
> Pumpspeed did not really affect cpu temps (1-2c maybe). Water temps max out at 29c
> 
> are seems temps normal for the block?


Block is either clogged or you have poor mounting contact. That is way to high for a 10900k. Unless your pushing like 5.4-5.5ghz.

Do yourself a favor. On your next tear down to check and clean the block. Install a real proper flow sensor...... There are so many reasons to have one. One being the ability to see real time flow problems. Id recommend the High flow 2 sensor from aquacomputer.


----------



## elbramso

criskoe said:


> Block is either clogged or you have poor mounting contact. That is way to high for a 10900k. Unless your pushing like 5.4-5.5ghz.
> 
> Do yourself a favor. On your next tear down to check and clean the block. Install a real proper flow sensor...... There are so many reasons to have one. One being the ability to see real time flow problems. Id recommend the High flow 2 sensor from aquacomputer.


I do in fact have a flow sensor ;-) and my cpu is unable to hit 5.4Ghz without at least 1.425v. But a power draw of 285watt is already relatively high, thats with 1.3625v.


----------



## chibi

criskoe said:


> Do yourself a favor. On your next tear down to check and clean the block. Install a real proper flow sensor...... There are so many reasons to have one. One being the ability to see real time flow problems. Id recommend the *High flow 2 sensor from aquacomputer*.



+Rep and post for anyone else on the fence of getting a proper flow sensor. This one is the bees knees and a highly accurate built in temp sensor as well. Less cables to run for this aio sensor.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Block is either clogged or you have poor mounting contact. That is way to high for a 10900k. Unless your pushing like 5.4-5.5ghz.
> 
> Do yourself a favor. On your next tear down to check and clean the block. Install a real proper flow sensor...... There are so many reasons to have one. One being the ability to see real time flow problems. Id recommend the High flow 2 sensor from aquacomputer.


Great candidate for future sponsorship by aquacomputer. Don’t send to linus, youtube guys. Send to users here.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2528615
> 
> 
> MDPC-X also money sinkhole lol. So many nice new colors. Just got friends aluminum grey (got one coming for avaitor cable). Damn nice


Nice job. I bought a bunch of MDPC-X black and red sleeving probably 10 years ago. Still have a bunch of it. I tried to do the PSU sleeving but just had a hard time doing it cleanly with the shrink-wrap. Now I mostly use it for quick and dirty sleeving of unsleeved single wires like on pumps and such.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Nice job. I bought a bunch of MDPC-X black and red sleeving probably 10 years ago. Still have a bunch of it. I tried to do the PSU sleeving but just had a hard time doing it cleanly with the shrink-wrap. Now I mostly use it for quick and dirty sleeving of unsleeved single wires like on pumps and such.


Its titanrigs not me


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Its titanrigs not me


Ah ok. Yeah I agree with your sentiment though, it is a money sink hole and I sank too much into it.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Ah ok. Yeah I agree with your sentiment though, it is a money sink hole and I sank too much into it.


Though i looked at doing myself/local person. The cost of materials are more than titanrigs. Shipping from Cable Sleeving Germany is expensive


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> So release date of 2026






























So after four cables (one never shippeg gx-16 or 12), lemo connector and seeing differences, the big difference is the lemo hides any tape used to cover it. Keeping the two lemo mdpc-x and getting rid of the femo.

Should just pay and get the lemo cable from the start.


----------



## criskoe

I personally don't like any middle connectors on my keeb cables. Just not my thing. I'm also on the fence about coils. They can look good depending on the setup. But I do enjoy a nice looking custom cable. 

I actually just finished my own built first custom cable. Its really not as hard as one might think to make these things if you have patience, time and already own the tools.


----------



## criskoe

Hope one of you might be able to dig deep into your brains and remember what the stock thermal pad thickness was for the Founder Edition 1080 Ti are? Ive searched all over the internet and cannot seem to find any info on the FE. Just other aftermarket ones. Any one out there know this? Realize this was a long time ago. I got two old 1080 Ti's laying here that I want to put the stock air coolers back on them to sell to someone.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> I personally don't like any middle connectors on my keeb cables. Just not my thing. I'm also on the fence about coils. They can look good depending on the setup. But I do enjoy a nice looking custom cable.
> 
> I actually just finished my own built first custom cable. Its really not as hard as one might think to make these things if you have patience, time and already own the tools.
> 
> View attachment 2528791


I got both so i have the option myself. I looked at custom cables but dont have patience etc to do one. You did make an nice cable i will say.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> I got both so i have the option myself. I looked at custom cables but dont have patience etc to do one. You did make an nice cable i will say.


Thanks. I went with white paracord on the inner sleeve and black techflex for the outer sleeve. Looks awesome in person!. There was too many colors to choose from and couldnt decide so I thought I would just go with a mono theme that would go with what ever im running.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Hope one of you might be able to dig deep into your brains and remember what the stock thermal pad thickness was for the Founder Edition 1080 Ti are? Ive searched all over the internet and cannot seem to find any info on the FE. Just other aftermarket ones. Any one out there know this? Realize this was a long time ago. I got two old 1080 Ti's laying here that I want to put the stock air coolers back on them to sell to someone.


I don’t have one (threw it out) but they were pretty bad thin pads from recollections. Let me see if i still have old photos from it.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> I don’t have one (threw it out) but they were pretty bad thin pads from recollections. Let me see if i still have old photos from it.


Cool thanks.. If I remember correctly they were the yellowy/greenish pads that are super soft and squishy like. Almost like gum. Person that want the cards doesnt want the water block and wants me to put the air cooler back on. So I need to do it right the first time. LOL. Trying to not waste a whole bunch of time.


----------



## chibi

criskoe said:


> Hope one of you might be able to dig deep into your brains and remember what the stock thermal pad thickness was for the Founder Edition 1080 Ti are? Ive searched all over the internet and cannot seem to find any info on the FE. Just other aftermarket ones. Any one out there know this? Realize this was a long time ago. I got two old 1080 Ti's laying here that I want to put the stock air coolers back on them to sell to someone.



Here you go buddy, this was from Titan Xp, but they should be the same minus the extra memory chip.


----------



## criskoe

chibi said:


> Here you go buddy, this was from Titan Xp, but they should be the same minus the extra memory chip.


Booya!. Thanks dude!. Cause those stock pads were so squishy. You think the same thickness but in fuji pads will be ok? They are not nearly as squishy but I got a all those sizes on hand in fujis.


----------



## chibi

Try to upsize by 0.5 and check for thermal paste coverage. I think regardless, you're going to have to trial and error because like you said, the stock pads compress hella. But now you have a starting point so you're not just swinging blind.


----------



## criskoe

chibi said:


> Try to upsize by 0.5 and check for thermal paste coverage. I think regardless, you're going to have to trial and error because like you said, the stock pads compress hella. But now you have a starting point so you're not just swinging blind.


Cool. Thanks again for sharing the pic. That alone helps alot.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Cool. Thanks again for sharing the pic. That alone helps alot.


we all help each other here. Sure we don’t always talk optimus but we all learn more about hobby, etc. One of us experimenting gives everyone else useful ideas for there own builds, etc


----------



## chibi

Speaking of thermal pads, question for the Strix + Optimus block users.

I reviewed the FTW3 block and it calls for pads on the inductors. I also checked the Strix block but this time, there's no pads for the inductors. Just wondering if anyone has padded the following area and if so, does it cause any tolerance issues by raising the block too high for proper die contact?


----------



## dng25

:O


----------



## Shawnb99

dng25 said:


> :O



Very nice. Now if I could only get a reply and I’d buy one.


----------



## dng25

Shawnb99 said:


> Very nice. Now if I could only get a reply and I’d buy one.





https://optimuspc.com/products/replacement-signature-v2-top?variant=39480141774931


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah I don’t need the product page. I want one included with my KPE block hence the need for a reply.


----------



## dng25

They got replacement GPU midplates too



https://optimuspc.com/products/replacement-gpu-mid-plate


----------



## KCDC

dng25 said:


> https://optimuspc.com/products/replacement-signature-v2-top?variant=39480141774931


Dang, could replace my nickel top that either I ruined or was defective (but probably I ruined). That white sure is purdy. This was after a 9 month run on same fluid, used primochill utopia and distilled. Haven't used that stuff ever since. Still can't figure out why it happened, nothing else in my loop had this happen, but I swapped everything else out anyway. This was one of their first production runs of the V2.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Speaking of thermal pads, question for the Strix + Optimus block users.
> 
> I reviewed the FTW3 block and it calls for pads on the inductors. I also checked the Strix block but this time, there's no pads for the inductors. Just wondering if anyone has padded the following area and if so, does it cause any tolerance issues by raising the block too high for proper die contact?
> 
> View attachment 2528854


i asked and no issue. Even the aquacomputer doesn’t have pads for it.


----------



## Section31

dng25 said:


> They got replacement GPU midplates too
> 
> 
> 
> https://optimuspc.com/products/replacement-gpu-mid-plate


Very good price. I ordered one too


----------



## CluckyTaco

Section31 said:


> Very good price. I ordered one too


Same here couldn't resist the matte black mid-plate. Added a new set of front thermal pads too.


----------



## criskoe

@Optimus WC

Has Optimus ever said why the ports on their Sig V2 blocks are not centered like they are on the foundation blocks? Or maybe the better question is, has anyone ever asked them why?

Id love to buy a Sig v2 in matte black but the offset ports bug me... LOL. Im silly like that.

Hopefully the next version has centered ports and no logo on the face so the block can be rotated to swap the ports. Maybe just logos on the sides or a badge that can be rotated.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Has Optimus ever said why the ports on their Sig V2 blocks are not centered like they are on the foundation blocks? Or maybe the better question is, has anyone ever asked them why?
> 
> Id love to buy a Sig v2 in matte black but the offset ports bug me... LOL. Im silly like that.
> 
> Hopefully the next version has centered ports and no logo on the face so the block can be rotated to swap the ports. Maybe just logos on the sides or a badge that can be rotated.


Great suggestion.


----------



## iamjanco

@Optimus WC any update as to when you might start shipping KPE 3090 blocks with active backplates?


----------



## dng25

iamjanco said:


> @Optimus WC any update as to when you might start shipping KPE 3090 blocks with active backplates?




__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1449056611364839426
They're still delayed by materials


----------



## iamjanco

dng25 said:


> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1449056611364839426
> They're still delayed by materials


Thanks, but that could go on into the New Year. Some of us might not be willing to wait that long.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Metro Exodus Enhanced Edition reminding me just how badly I need a block...my poor AIO can barely handle this...even with 63W of fan power at 4000RPM full blast. It'll likely be more than a year that I've had the card before the block arrives...


----------



## dng25

iamjanco said:


> Thanks, but that could go on into the New Year. Some of us might not be willing to wait that long.


At least we're getting weekly updates from them.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

iamjanco said:


> Thanks, but that could go on into the New Year. Some of us might not be willing to wait that long.


I'm patient but I'm approaching the end of my tolerance for this. I was a batch 2 pre-order on the ftw3 block last year, also day 1 on the strix block, and day 1 on KP block. I've had a new build on hold for awhile now while I wait for this block. I think I'll wait another few weeks and then I'm done, will go with the strix in this build and forget about the KP. I've had my KP in a mining rig for nearly a year now while I wait on a block. Such a waste, probably time to sell it.


----------



## asdf893

Edge0fsanity said:


> I'm patient but I'm approaching the end of my tolerance for this. I was a batch 2 pre-order on the ftw3 block last year, also day 1 on the strix block, and day 1 on KP block. I've had a new build on hold for awhile now while I wait for this block. I think I'll wait another few weeks and then I'm done, will go with the strix in this build and forget about the KP. I've had my KP in a mining rig for nearly a year now while I wait on a block. Such a waste, probably time to sell it.


Is anyone else thinking about ditching the optimus kingpin block, as glorious and beautiful as it may be, and getting a rumored 3090 super/ti in Q1 '22 with the traditional front cooling only optimus block?


----------



## Shawnb99

dng25 said:


> At least we're getting weekly updates from them.


Are we though? I can’t even get an email reply after a week and you think we’re being updated weekly? It’s more of the same BS, nothing ever ****ing changes with them.


----------



## acoustic

Shawnb99 said:


> Are we though? I can’t even get an email reply after a week and you think we’re being updated weekly? It’s more of the same BS, nothing ever ****ing changes with them.


Not that I'm saying anyone should or shouldn't, but they don't have much incentive to change if people keep giving them money.

Hope you guys get your blocks and there aren't any more delays. You all are a very .. patient .. bunch.


----------



## Shawnb99

acoustic said:


> Not that I'm saying anyone should or shouldn't, but they don't have much incentive to change if people keep giving them money.
> 
> Hope you guys get your blocks and there aren't any more delays. You all are a very .. patient .. bunch.


Yeah I know that’s a problem I struggle with myself. As long as quality and performance stays this high, it’ll just have to be something we have to put up with.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, 

FIirst, Shawn, I'm getting emailed bounced that are sent to you, not sure why. i'll DM you 










For the Sigs with the symetrical ports (and with a logo that isn't in one place), it'll def be changed on the Sig V3 (no idea when that'll see the light of day), and match the port distances of everything else we do now, which is uniform. The V2 is the same basic design as the V1, which was made for performance with the center port more in line with the center jet slot. It's actually pretty tricky from a machining standpoint to do that angle hole from the port directly into the jet slot (and skip the silly jet plates on other blocks). With the V3s, it will be a really new design with more performance increases, should be fun 

As for other things in the works, the KPs are looking great, we're just still hit by this insane global shipping shortages and problems. It's in the news like crazy if anyone wants to read about it. 

As for Cerakoted things, here are some more unedited shots of a Sig with black and a FTW3 with black:


----------



## Optimus WC

Also, to respond to Shawn's Q from an email but worth for everyone to know:

The thing to know is black Cerakote is made to be a match to the previous black. So people can get new black items and it'll all match in their builds. This is the same as te satin nickel -- the new Cerakote nickel matches the actual satin nickel on the Sigs and fittings and pump bottoms. If you already have a black pump bottom, literally no reason to switch (the previous black is also insanely strong, it just can't be used inside loops like the Cerakote can).


----------



## Section31

Meanwhile Next Chaos Giveaway Planned lol.


Optimus WC said:


> Also, to respond to Shawn's Q from an email but worth for everyone to know:
> 
> The thing to know is black Cerakote is made to be a match to the previous black. So people can get new black items and it'll all match in their builds. This is the same as te satin nickel -- the new Cerakote nickel matches the actual satin nickel on the Sigs and fittings and pump bottoms. If you already have a black pump bottom, literally no reason to switch (the previous black is also insanely strong, it just can't be used inside loops like the Cerakote can).


Im combining matte black with your xe-nickel fittings


----------



## Shawnb99

Sig3??? You have to provide some news of that now


----------



## dng25

Shawnb99 said:


> Are we though? I can’t even get an email reply after a week and you think we’re being updated weekly? It’s more of the same BS, nothing ever ****ing changes with them.


Don't know about your situation. But they been given us update on twitter every week or so. I mean not like they have any good news to give yet so I get why people are mad but like *** can they do if they don't have the materials to do it? Like the only acceptable answer for you guys is to deliver it right now when it's not possible.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Sig3??? You have to provide some news of that now


We are addicted to r&d news. Glass reservoir, Fittings , Cases, Radiators. Even New Mo-Ra4 lol


----------



## Section31

dng25 said:


> Don't know about your situation. But they been given us update on twitter every week or so. I mean not like they have any good news to give yet so I get why people are mad but like *** can they do if they don't have the materials to do it? Like the only acceptable answer for you guys is to deliver it right now when it's not possible.


This happens here every so while. Then people calm down. Let them say whats on there mind but don’t add/blow up this thread more.


----------



## alexsoxfan01

Optimus WC said:


> For the Sigs with the symetrical ports (and with a logo that isn't in one place), it'll def be changed on the Sig V3 (no idea when that'll see the light of day), and match the port distances of everything else we do now, which is uniform. The V2 is the same basic design as the V1, which was made for performance with the center port more in line with the center jet slot. It's actually pretty tricky from a machining standpoint to do that angle hole from the port directly into the jet slot (and skip the silly jet plates on other blocks). With the V3s, it will be a really new design with more performance increases, should be fun
> 
> As for other things in the works, the KPs are looking great, we're just still hit by this insane global shipping shortages and problems. It's in the news like crazy if anyone wants to read about it.
> 
> As for Cerakoted things, here are some more unedited shots of a Sig with black and a FTW3 with black:
> 
> View attachment 2529005


Any chance there will be a Signature block for AM4/AM5? Would love an all metal block especially with the cerakote options.


----------



## Section31

For those who want an optimus sig v2/strix block Decided to help community out by giving away my blemish top and even my Strix Midplate once i change over to ceratoke matte black.

International ppl can enter but shipping is to be handled by you.


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/CanadianHardwareSwap/comments/q9eyn8


----------



## Optimus WC

Yes, AMD Sig at some point  

For Sig V3, lots of new stuff, can't reveal any details yet, it's all in progress and don't want to tip off the other guys


----------



## chibi

@Optimus WC - when I placed an order for the new cerakote gpu block, I noticed the option to select the backplate colour is missing. Am I correct that the backplate will match the colour chosen?


----------



## Optimus WC

chibi said:


> @Optimus WC - when I placed an order for the new cerakote gpu block, I noticed the option to select the backplate colour is missing. Am I correct that the backplate will match the colour chosen?


Correct!


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Yes, AMD Sig at some point
> 
> For Sig V3, lots of new stuff, can't reveal any details yet, it's all in progress and don't want to tip off the other guys


Don’t forget us big supporters lol. We would love to test it out. Keep on coming out with new products


----------



## 39life

Optimus WC said:


> Correct!


Hello,
your web site states 4-6weeks delivery time for strix WB. how correct that info is ? 
will it be shipped out in this period of time or only get ready ?
Regards


----------



## asdf893

39life said:


> Hello,
> your web site states 4-6weeks delivery time for strix WB. how correct that info is ?
> will it be shipped out in this period of time or only get ready ?
> Regards


I'm sure they'll give you a response too but from my experience I'd say 2 months.


----------



## Section31

39life said:


> Hello,
> your web site states 4-6weeks delivery time for strix WB. how correct that info is ?
> will it be shipped out in this period of time or only get ready ?
> Regards


Its only an rough timeline. Be patient with Optimus as there stuff is estimate timeline. If you can’t wait please have temporary solutions


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> I'm sure they'll give you a response too but from my experience I'd say 2 months.


Yup. People don’t read all the posts here. If they did they know they are estimat timelines only.


----------



## dng25

asdf893 said:


> I'm sure they'll give you a response too but from my experience I'd say 2 months.


If you're not in the states you probably should add a few more weeks to the timeline.


----------



## 39life

asdf893 said:


> I'm sure they'll give you a response too but from my experience I'd say 2 months.





Section31 said:


> Its only an rough timeline. Be patient with Optimus as there stuff is estimate timeline. If you can’t wait please have temporary solutions


Thank you for your answers guys. Will keep that information in mind before making an order.
That's why I have asked about delivery time, to hear back from real people not web site.


----------



## chibi

Whatever is in stock will ship within 1-2 days is my experience. If you need to backorder, then your mileage may vary depending on how far along the production run is when you placed your order.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Whatever is in stock will ship within 1-2 days is my experience. If you need to backorder, then your mileage may vary depending on how far along the production run is when you placed your order.


Got to say i think without Optimus i have feelings we would have stopped upgrading water loop so radically lol.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Whatever is in stock will ship within 1-2 days is my experience. If you need to backorder, then your mileage may vary depending on how far along the production run is when you placed your order.


The keyboard investment game is interesting. Can make double profit reselling limited instock only boards. Nuts. An Owlab Jelly 75 that costs 500usd resells at 1000usd plus.


----------



## dng25

Can you fit a aquacomputer d5 (not the new d5 next but the discontinued usb one) in one of the optimus's pump tops?


----------



## Section31

Nope. Only the pwm non aquabus variant will.


----------



## iamjanco

dng25 said:


> Can you fit a aquacomputer d5 (not the new d5 next but the discontinued usb one) in one of the optimus's pump tops?
> 
> 
> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> *Nope. Only the pwm non aquabus variant will.*
Click to expand...

Not so sure that's entirely correct, but correct me if I'm mistaken...

USB and AquaBus are not one in the same and serve different purposes. They're also hooked up using different cables/connectors (USB is a 5 wire/5 pin; AquaBus is a 4 wire/4 pin). While I don't have any experience using the OptimusWC res combo myself, the only difficulty I see using an AC pump with such connections might entail the need to modify the Optimus Pump bottom to make room for the cabling/routing/connections (e.g., drill/enlarge holes if need be). The example of the back of an Aquacomputer D5 Pump with USB and Aquabus Interface follows:



Spoiler: AC D5 PUMP















Reference: *ABSOLUTE D5 RESERVOIR SYSTEM - PRE-ASSEMBLED*


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> Not so sure that's entirely correct, but correct me if I'm mistaken...
> 
> USB and AquaBus are not one in the same and serve different purposes. They're also hooked up using different cables/connectors (USB is a 5 wire/5 pin; AquaBus is a 4 wire/4 pin). While I don't have any experience using the OptimusWC res combo myself, the only difficulty I see using an AC pump with such connections might entail the need to modify the Optimus Pump bottom to make room for the cabling/routing/connections (e.g., drill/enlarge holes if need be). The example of the back of an Aquacomputer D5 Pump with USB and Aquabus Interface follows:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: AC D5 PUMP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2529286
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reference: *ABSOLUTE D5 RESERVOIR SYSTEM - PRE-ASSEMBLED*


I mean that part. Drilling an hole defeats purpose of the optimus metal block. Should wait for the alternative mount or glass reservoir if using aquacomputer d5 next or that pump


----------



## iamjanco

Section31 said:


> *Drilling an hole defeats purpose of the optimus metal block.*


How? What purpose? Using a Dremel, the bottom opening could easily be made large enough to accomodate the connections on the AC D5.

"Enthusiasts" have been making such modifications where and when needed since the dawn of "enthusiasm." If the right tools are available, as well as the skill/know-how, i don't see the problem.


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> How? What purpose? Using a Dremel, the bottom opening could easily be made large enough to accomodate the connections on the AC D5.
> 
> "Enthusiasts" have been making such modifications where and when needed since the dawn of "enthusiasm." If the right tools are available, as well as the skill/know-how, i don't see the problem.


By that logic any pump can be made to fit.


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> By that logic any pump can be made to fit.


Perhaps, but we're talking about an AC D5. That opening in the Optimum wc pump bottom would typically be out of sight, wouldn't it?


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> How? What purpose? Using a Dremel, the bottom opening could easily be made large enough to accomodate the connections on the AC D5.
> 
> "Enthusiasts" have been making such modifications where and when needed since the dawn of "enthusiasm." If the right tools are available, as well as the skill/know-how, i don't see the problem.


If it worked well, the d5 next user would have attemped it. Thats why some of us aren’t using optimus reservoir.

I thought about drilling into my caselabs to implement pass though but didn’t because by then caselabs was gone and there was no way to get replacement parts.


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> Perhaps, but we're talking about an AC D5. That opening in the Optimum wc pump bottom would typically be out of sight, wouldn't it?


I think no matter what the cables will be visible. That or you have the metal block sitting on cables. Not ideal. Easier and cheaper to just sell and buy an d5 pwm pump honestly.

I had one of those aquacomputer pumps, it died on me. Only d5 that failed to work.

If i had the technical knowledge the d5 next does fit you need to make an extension cable that directly connects the oled controller connector (in white) interface to the d5 body. Thats one cool concept imo. Can place the next oled controller in more convinent access point


----------



## iamjanco

Section31 said:


> If it worked well, the d5 next user would have attemped it. *Thats why some of us aren’t using optimus reservoir.*
> 
> I thought about drilling into my caselabs to implement pass though but didn’t because by then caselabs was gone and there was no way to get replacement parts.


...but the original question had nothing to do with the D5 Next, did it. Are you using the Optimus reservoir? Have you had the opportunity to personally inspect it?


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> ...but the original question had nothing to do with the D5 Next, did it. Are you using the Optimus reservoir? Have you had the opportunity to personally inspect it?


We all asked (shawnb99 also) and even optimus said not possible. I even had an contact with an unit look at theres. 

The issue was the pump needs the metal housing unit secure the pump to the reservoir body so its a lot of work to get it working. Helps if its someone like you with the technical skills.


----------



## iamjanco

Again, maybe, but couldn't say for sure unless I had one of those pump bottoms in my own hands. The AC D5s I've got in storage.

Still, I think it would be easy enough for many (if not most) to remove what I've highlighted in the following image, without really having any special skills per se:










I don't think there'd be such a large structural impact to the piece that making such a cut would cause major issues. From what I can tell from the pix Optimus does provide of that opening, the bottom seems to be relatively thin.


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> Again, maybe, but couldn't say for sure unless I had one of those pump bottoms in my own hands. The AC D5s I've got in storage.
> 
> Still, I think it would be easy enough for many (if not most) to remove what I've highlighted in the following image, without really having any special skills per se:
> 
> View attachment 2529312
> 
> 
> I don't think there'd be such a large structural impact to the piece that making such a cut would cause major issues. From what I can tell from the pix Optimus does provide of that opening, the bottom seems to be relatively thin.


Im waiting for more d5 next clones (watercool has one in r&d) that doesn’t rely on seperate oled controller. The oled controller is the most fragile part of the d5 next. Shawnb99 and me have damaged the d5 oled controller before.

Shawnb99 found out the OLED controller can't handle 16awg custom sleeved cables (or it breaks)

Myself i have encountered thing (user error):

Pump Body glue over time weakens and bottom part can fall out
OLED Controller mounting points (two straight plugs) can be damaged if mounting it in tight spaces. Black Plastic parts bend and the insert comes loose. Sometimes require bit of work to get it reconnecting.
OLED Controller isn't 100% durable. Basically i got one pump with an fried up button (water dmg is my take). Also the display lid is moving because the plastic section that holds the oled display fell out and can't find it.


----------



## iamjanco

Yeah, I've got two of them myself and noted others' complaints before I ordered them; as well as how fragile they could be once I received them.

No problems yet:


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah they are fragile things. Not sure if it was the bend or just the 16awg cable but both SATA connectors came loose. Had one controller come completely loose from the housing, was easy to reconnect it but still. Not impressed with them at all.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah they are fragile things. Not sure if it was the bend or just the 16awg cable but both SATA connectors came loose. Had one controller come completely loose from the housing, was easy to reconnect it but still. Not impressed with them at all.


No better option till then. Its oled thing is useful for external mo-ra3 and nice backup control options.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> No better option till then. Its oled thing is useful for external mo-ra3


Boy howdy.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Boy howdy.
> View attachment 2529329


You should start making and selling prebuilt mo-Ra3 honestly, So beautiful. I see so many on reddit watercooling building/asking advice how to build an nice one.


----------



## Tricerakash

Would any of you be selling your older ftw3 optimus block? first post here, not sure if its the right place


----------



## Section31

Tricerakash said:


> Would any of you be selling your older ftw3 optimus block? first post here, not sure if its the right place


I have couple of friends that are only getting ftw3 replacement midplate. How you will get the remaining parts is tough. Coldplate, Backplate and Cast Acrylic isn’t sold on optimus site yet.


----------



## LiquidHaus

0451 said:


> Boy howdy.
> _snip_


YES dude. This is great.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> YES dude. This is great.


Inspired by LiquidHaus. This is my favorite build ever


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Inspired by LiquidHaus. This is my favorite build ever
> 
> View attachment 2529366


Liquidhaus builds are all nice. Your getting there too. Keep on building rigs both of you.


----------



## Section31

Tricerakash said:


> Would any of you be selling your older ftw3 optimus block? first post here, not sure if its the right place


Contact someone called jjkfeng on reddit. He might be ordering an brand new whole block


----------



## LiquidHaus

0451 said:


> Inspired by LiquidHaus. This is my favorite build ever
> _snip_


I'm glad my build inspired ya, man! It's honestly the best part out of all of the stuff I do. If I can inspire even just one person, it lets me know that I'm doing something right lol.


Nowwww just wait until you see what I'm currently working on. Ohhhhh MAN is this build something that I wish was my own. I can't say anything about it yet, but I should be able to after October.


----------



## Sir Beregond

LiquidHaus said:


> I'm glad my build inspired ya, man! It's honestly the best part out of all of the stuff I do. If I can inspire even just one person, it lets me know that I'm doing something right lol.
> 
> 
> Nowwww just wait until you see what I'm currently working on. Ohhhhh MAN is this build something that I wish was my own. I can't say anything about it yet, but I should be able to after October.


Love your stuff. Looking forward to seeing it.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> I'm glad my build inspired ya, man! It's honestly the best part out of all of the stuff I do. If I can inspire even just one person, it lets me know that I'm doing something right lol.
> 
> 
> Nowwww just wait until you see what I'm currently working on. Ohhhhh MAN is this build something that I wish was my own. I can't say anything about it yet, but I should be able to after October.


Always interested in your work. Since i am starting family next year, i unfortunately have to downscale all these rig projects (hence why i decided to jump to alderlake). Next build, i likely need to collaborate with an existing builder to get it done. Not going to have all the time available for planning and doing custom loop builds.

No more mid-build changes either unless its something really worth it.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Always interested in your work. Since i am starting family next year, i unfortunately have to downscale all these rig projects (hence why i decided to jump to alderlake). Next build, i likely need to collaborate with an existing builder to get it done. Not going to have all the time available for planning and doing custom loop builds.
> 
> No more mid-build changes either unless its something really worth it.


Well in theory we shouldn't have to do much planning or changing for custom loops. That is if we stop changing the loop around and swapping parts.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Well in theory we shouldn't have to do much planning or changing for custom loops. That is if we stop changing the loop around and swapping parts.


When has that not happened lol


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> When has that not happened lol


lol so true


----------



## dng25

install one of these bad boys on a mora 😂


----------



## iamjanco

KPE block update:


----------



## Shawnb99

Sweet!


----------



## tbrown7552

Ran that through the Optimus Time to normal time converter and it looks like it will be around Nov 15th.


----------



## Shawnb99

tbrown7552 said:


> Ran that through the Optimus Time to normal time converter and it looks like it will be around Nov 15th.


2022


----------



## chibi

Good news for the KP peeps. Let's get those out the door so they can work on the next batch of items


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Good news for the KP peeps. Let's get those out the door so they can work on the next batch of items


Same here.


----------



## HyperMatrix

tbrown7552 said:


> Ran that through the Optimus Time to normal time converter and it looks like it will be around Nov 15th.


That's awfully optimistic. Haha.


----------



## dng25

The new sig v2 already shipped. Got tracking number. Just waiting for Kp block.

Unless maybe KP is in that box too🤔


----------



## chibi

dng25 said:


> The new sig v2 already shipped. Got tracking number. Just waiting for Kp block.
> 
> Unless maybe KP is in that box too🤔


Nice, what colour did you get? Post some pics when it arrives. I'm waiting on my new blocks too.


----------



## Section31

dng25 said:


> The new sig v2 already shipped. Got tracking number. Just waiting for Kp block.
> 
> Unless maybe KP is in that box too🤔


Nice. Waiting here for mine. Though i am likely delayed because of white ftw3 midplate replacement


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Nice, what colour did you get? Post some pics when it arrives. I'm waiting on my new blocks too.


Optimus, Alderlake, Keyboard wait is killing me lol. Not helping im getting more and more into keyboard rabbit hole. Hobby where you rarely lose money only can breakeven or make profit.


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> Optimus, Alderlake, Keyboard wait is killing me lol. Not helping im getting more and more into keyboard rabbit hole. Hobby where you rarely lose money only can breakeven or make profit.


I got hot and heavy in keyboards for like a solid 4+ years and I still only have a few thanks to the wait time of everything. Though it do love it when I come home and see a package at the door and open it to find out X GB finally fulfilled. Ordered so much stuff I dont even remember what I got. Keyboard waiting game is worse than Optimus.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> I got hot and heavy in keyboards for like a solid 4+ years and I still only have a few thanks to the wait time of everything. Though it do love it when I come home and see a package at the door and open it to find out X GB finally fulfilled. Ordered so much stuff I dont even remember what I got. Keyboard waiting game is worse than Optimus.


Some of my friends just got lucky on the Owlabs Jelly Epoch 75%. They are going to reap huge profit considering these boards resell for 1000+ USD.


----------



## iamjanco

I'll swap it in at the same time I swap in the Optimus KPE 3090 block:


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> I'll swap it in at the same time I swap in the Optimus KPE 3090 block:
> 
> View attachment 2529949


Nice. I am working on reselling my 5950x now lol


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC why am I getting notice my Sig2 and reservoir have shipped, I thought they were being combined with my KPE order? 

This is why you guys need to hire a ****ing CS team.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC why am I getting notice my Sig2 and reservoir have shipped, I thought they were being combined with my KPE order?
> 
> This is why you guys need to hire a ****ing CS team.


Nice. I am thinking about ordering an reservoir too now lol


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Nice. I am thinking about ordering an reservoir too now lol


The only time I’ve ever got mad at something shipping early


----------



## CluckyTaco

Quick question for those with FTW3 blocks, my PWR4 temp is higher than average compared with the rest of the components. Is this expected or do I need to reseat the block or something? I know the instructions from Optimus don't specify any thermal pads in that area. This is during idle btw. At load the temperature delta is about 10C vs GPU1.


----------



## Section31

Hopefully will have the Alderlake build up fast. I was going to wait for Z690 Apex but after seeing the prices of Z690 Hero, it really was not an options. Ended up going with Z690 Aorus Master instead. Even Ram, i might as well go with DDR5-5200 (its not too expensive actually) and later on upgrade.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> Hopefully will have the Alderlake build up fast. I was going to wait for Z690 Apex but after seeing the prices of Z690 Hero, it really was not an options. Ended up going with Z690 Aorus Master instead. Even Ram, i might as well go with DDR5-5200 (its not too expensive actually) and later on upgrade.


Yeah that price for the hero is pretty shocking tbh. LOL... Its just crazy. Makes me wonder what they will charge if they ever bring back the HEDT platform. LOL cause these are HEDT platform prices for sure. 

I dunno. I'm bias to Asus boards for their bios. So I will wait for Apex or Extreme.


----------



## chibi

CluckyTaco said:


> Quick question for those with FTW3 blocks, my PWR4 temp is higher than average compared with the rest of the components. Is this expected or do I need to reseat the block or something? I know the instructions from Optimus don't specify any thermal pads in that area. This is during idle btw. At load the temperature delta is about 10C vs GPU1.
> 
> View attachment 2530013



If there is no contact in that area of the PCB with the waterblock then it's going to be a bit warmer than areas that are actively cooled.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Yeah that price for the hero is pretty shocking tbh. LOL... Its just crazy. Makes me wonder what they will charge if they ever bring back the HEDT platform. LOL cause these are HEDT platform prices for sure.
> 
> I dunno. I'm bias to Asus boards for their bios. So I will wait for Apex or Extreme.


I expect it be 800-900cad at this rate. That's asking a lot.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> I expect it be 800-900cad at this rate. That's asking a lot.


Yup. These prices are starting to get out of control. My guess is apex @ $899. Formula @ $999 and Extreme @ $1099


----------



## HyperMatrix

criskoe said:


> Yup. These prices are starting to get out of control. My guess is apex @ $899. Formula @ $999 and Extreme @ $1099


The Z590 Maximus Extreme was averaging above $1099 while the Z590 XIII Hero was $650. So if the Z690 Hero is up $100, I'd expect the Extreme to go up by at least that same amount.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

The ROG accountants still adding 0s to the msrp.


----------



## CluckyTaco

chibi said:


> If there is no contact in that area of the PCB with the waterblock then it's going to be a bit warmer than areas that are actively cooled.


Thanks I thought the same but figured it wouldn't hurt to ask around.


----------



## chibi

CluckyTaco said:


> Thanks I thought the same but figured it wouldn't hurt to ask around.


If you have some thermal putty, you could apply some to that area and see if it helps.


----------



## Biggu

Debating if I want to dump this 5950x for the 12900k and get back to intel or not. I suppose it depends on availability at this point.


----------



## Shawnb99

Sold my first item on FB marketplace so of course I get to experience my first scam. So glad I already deposited the funds into my account, PayPal can go **** itself and sue me if it wants it's money back


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Debating if I want to dump this 5950x for the 12900k and get back to intel or not. I suppose it depends on availability at this point.


Intel allows backorder so that means less likely to be scalped. Motherboard pricing isn’t good and ddr5 ram we will see.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Sold my first item on FB marketplace so of course I get to experience my first scam. So glad I already deposited the funds into my account, PayPal can go **** itself and sue me if it wants it's money back


Lot of scammers out there trying to cheat the system. Probably swapped your working card for broken one.


----------



## Keith Myers

I would think everyone should wait on the tech reviews that get embargo lifted on the 4th before deciding to jump ship.


----------



## Shawnb99

Keith Myers said:


> I would think everyone should wait on the tech reviews that get embargo lifted on the 4th before deciding to jump ship.


Your logic has no place here!


----------



## Section31

Keith Myers said:


> I would think everyone should wait on the tech reviews that get embargo lifted on the 4th before deciding to jump ship.


Valid point. I think for more serious compute users, sapphire rapids is better choice.

I ain’t falling for alderlake hype, i expect it to be sidegrade from 5000 series at best. I am upgrading for different reasons.

In the end, it will come down to personal preferences and what’s important/prior experiences.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Shawnb99 said:


> Sold my first item on FB marketplace so of course I get to experience my first scam. So glad I already deposited the funds into my account, PayPal can go **** itself and sue me if it wants it's money back


What happened?


----------



## Keith Myers

Section31 said:


> Valid point. I think for more serious compute users, sapphire rapids is better choice.
> 
> I ain’t falling for alderlake hype, i expect it to be sidegrade from 5000 series at best. I am upgrading for different reasons.
> 
> In the end, it will come down to personal preferences and what’s important/prior experiences.


Yes, it depends on your usage type. I don't game, I crunch. If I could lay my hands on another Epyc Milan cpu I would replace one of my 3950X hosts.
Trying to get a Milan cpu in North America is as bad as trying to score the latest gpu. They are all getting allocated to datacenters and none for the DIY.
I got extremely lucky to score my 7443P back in August.


----------



## criskoe

Got my a replacement top and gaskets for my foundation block which had a very slow air leak when pressure testing it. Swapped them out and re pressure tested the block for 24 hours. Block now holds air and the very slow air leak is gone. 

Not that you need to pressure test for 24 hours. I just wanted to make sure. Anyways. If your block cant hold air indefinitely, something isnt right. It should be able to. Myn does now.


----------



## dwolvin

Was there ever any leaking liquid?


----------



## JustinThyme

Biggu said:


> Debating if I want to dump this 5950x for the 12900k and get back to intel or not. I suppose it depends on availability at this point.


Id wait. Much more to come soon from both sides.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Id wait. Much more to come soon from both sides.


pretty much i agree. Its personal reasons i moved ahead with it but for others should consider waiting.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> pretty much i agree. Its personal reasons i moved ahead with it but for others should consider waiting.


Are you having any stability issues with your 5950X? I am warm and cozy with keeping my 11900K and 4kc14 32gb DDR4 kit because it’s the most stable platform I’ve had and ADL won’t unlock ay extra performance from my 3090 unless I get a 300hz 1080p monitor.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Are you having any stability issues with your 5950X? I am warm and cozy with keeping my 11900K and 4kc14 32gb DDR4 kit because it’s the most stable platform I’ve had and ADL won’t unlock ay extra performance from my 3090 unless I get a 300hz 1080p monitor.


Personal Reason. Enough said lol.


----------



## iamjanco

A lot of things could happen in the next 12-24 months. Time will tell. 

I did get some new "desktop" speakers today (totally unrelated to this thread of course, but hey, what the heck):










8340As. The GLM module should be here Tuesday.


----------



## HyperMatrix

iamjanco said:


> A lot of things could happen in the next 12-24 months. Time will tell.
> 
> I did get some new "desktop" speakers today (totally unrelated to this thread of course, but hey, what the heck):
> 
> View attachment 2530363
> 
> 
> 8340As. The GLM module should be here Tuesday.


I’m running…or rather will be within a month…an 11 channel Dolby Atmos setup for my computer. 7 of those channels being 500W full sized towers. Haha. Just need some of that ray traced audio we keep hearing about and not seeing.


----------



## iamjanco

HyperMatrix said:


> I’m running…or rather will be within a month…an 11 channel Dolby Atmos setup for my computer. 7 of those channels being 500W full sized towers. Haha. Just need some of that ray traced audio we keep hearing about and not seeing.


Can't compete with that as room size factors in at this end. I've also got neighbors who likely wouldn't take too kindly to my knocking the dishes off their shelves on a regular basis.

Who knows though; I might expand the GLM setup to 5.1 down the road. Time will tell.


----------



## HyperMatrix

iamjanco said:


> Can't compete with that as room size factors in at this end. I've also got neighbors who likely wouldn't take too kindly to my knocking the dishes off their shelves on a regular basis.


Yeah I’m not too bright. Each speaker is only about 1-2 meters away from me. Haha. And I can’t say that the police haven’t come by before….


----------



## Shawnb99

0451 said:


> What happened?


Buddy is claiming card was dead and refuses to RMA it even after I offered to pay the shipping. So started a PayPal claim and as usual PayPal just wants the card returned and will issue buddy a refund but since I already took the money out PayPal ain't getting **** from me. Once I get back the card I'm sending it to EVGA to RMA, if they accept I'll think about repaying PayPal, otherwise they can go **** themselves


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC First I wanted black and not silver. Second I didn’t order a blemish model and this is not blemish free


----------



## iamjanco

Yikes. I certainly hope they do a little better on their $600 KPE block offerings.


----------



## Shawnb99

Sig2 Block looks amazing though









No blemishes as far as I can see so far


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Sig2 Block looks amazing though
> 
> View attachment 2530370
> 
> No blemishes as far as I can see so far


Does look amazing i will say


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Buddy is claiming card was dead and refuses to RMA it even after I offered to pay the shipping. So started a PayPal claim and as usual PayPal just wants the card returned and will issue buddy a refund but since I already took the money out PayPal ain't getting *** from me. Once I get back the card I'm sending it to EVGA to RMA, if they accept I'll think about repaying PayPal, otherwise they can go *** themselves


Its very likely he swapped an dead card with yours. You can see by the s/n label area. It could be worse, sometimes they claim it and actually flip the item for more.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Its very likely he swapped an dead card with yours. You can see by the s/n label area. It could be worse, sometimes they claim it and actually flip the item for more.


Yeah I’m expecting as much. I’ll do a quick check for physical damage and let EVGA evaluate it. Hopefully they’ll still RMA it.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah I’m expecting as much. I’ll do a quick check for physical damage and let EVGA evaluate it. Hopefully they’ll still RMA it.


Hope so. Be glad you never see them in person. Who knows what else they can do. Too many cases of identity theft, robbery and kidnapping.


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> pretty much i agree. Its personal reasons i moved ahead with it but for others should consider waiting.


Agreed, Personal reasons on my side as well. I Tried to give AMD a chance again but its time to go back.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Agreed, Personal reasons on my side as well. I Tried to give AMD a chance again but its time to go back.


Sounds like you mind made it decision already. Fun time choicing the motherboard/ram with the current prices they are set at.


----------



## dwolvin

^this! The DDR5 and MB prices are going to be painful even if the new Intel chips are up to par. But GLHF- and share pics!


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> ^this! The DDR5 and MB prices are going to be painful even if the new Intel chips are up to par. But GLHF- and share pics!


That's what we do here. In a way, keeps us all watercooling.


----------



## dwolvin

Right? I just need Optimus to come up with something to give me an excuse to swap the AM4 block...


----------



## Biggu

dwolvin said:


> ^this! The DDR5 and MB prices are going to be painful even if the new Intel chips are up to par. But GLHF- and share pics!


I mean I moved to my setup before this AMD build when DDR4 first came out. Pretty sure I paid $500 ish for 16gb of ram at the time but I had a service plan with microcenter on it. When they started to have some issues later on the road that service plan enabled me to "upgrade" to better modules and larger capacity. I don't understand how you all deal with being in computers without a micro center so close. Now to be fair the motherboard wasn't bad or anywhere near the prices of stuff today.


----------



## Biggu

Shawnb99 said:


> Sig2 Block looks amazing though
> No blemishes as far as I can see so far


I dunno if its just me but to be honest that looks kinda bland with the matte finish. I really think the plating was a better look but that's probably just me.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, no Microcenter hurts. Fry's was good before the fraud/collapse back in the day (2008 timeframe). My last 2 builds were all internet purchased.


----------



## Shawnb99

Biggu said:


> I dunno if its just me but to be honest that looks kinda bland with the matte finish. I really think the plating was a better look but that's probably just me.


This looks like the old coloring. The new silver should look like the Sig2 block. Anyways the matt black looks better


----------



## Shawnb99

So good news. Buddy apparently got the card working and has canceled the claim.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> I dunno if its just me but to be honest that looks kinda bland with the matte finish. I really think the plating was a better look but that's probably just me.


This might be an good temp option till better ram come out. Probably will be listed on US Amazon etc.









Crucial RAM 32GB DDR5 4800MHz CL40 Desktop Memory CT32G48C40U5 : Amazon.ca: Electronics


Crucial RAM 32GB DDR5 4800MHz CL40 Desktop Memory CT32G48C40U5 : Amazon.ca: Electronics



www.amazon.ca


----------



## chibi

KP peeps are in for a treat! Looks so nice, can't tell if it's render or not from phone lol.


__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1454206380894658562


----------



## Shawnb99

No shipping notice yet


----------



## HyperMatrix

chibi said:


> KP peeps are in for a treat! Looks so nice, can't tell if it's render or not from phone lol.
> 
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1454206380894658562


Treat would have been them shipping today as they last stated.  Looks like all we're getting from Optimus this halloween is a trick.


----------



## chibi

This is Optimus time we're talking. I'm sure all the seasoned vets set their expectations begrudgingly lol. I'd gladly join the queue if I could get a KP from EVGA.


----------



## LiquidHaus

All I will say is I would be excited for Alder Lake, it will not disappoint.

Did anyone catch me live on the Intel Creator Challenge event this week?


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> All I will say is I would be excited for Alder Lake, it will not disappoint.
> 
> Did anyone catch me live on the Intel Creator Challenge event this week?


Must see. I am excited too. Just deciding on the components without going crazy pass the budget is interesting task.


----------



## Section31

Delete


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> Im still undecided about the ram. That has to wait till release and whats ram available. Still in flux over motherboard - between asus hero (preordered) or asus apex


Some people are really adamant about DDR5 automatically being better. But I don’t know. I’m sick of companies not putting out any benchmarks at all until launch day. The practice needs to die a fiery death. And I blame Nvidia for starting it.


----------



## Section31

Delete


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Some people are really adamant about DDR5 automatically being better. But I don’t know. I’m sick of companies not putting out any benchmarks at all until launch day. The practice needs to die a fiery death. And I blame Nvidia for starting it.


The rumors about zen4 and ddr5 pricing are interesting though. However not upgrading in 2022.


----------



## iamjanco

chibi said:


> KP peeps are in for a treat! Looks so nice, can't tell if it's render or not from phone lol.
> 
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1454206380894658562
> 
> 
> Shawnb99 said:
> 
> 
> 
> No shipping notice yet
Click to expand...

@Optimus WC Besides the pretty pic on Twitter, any actual status updates regarding shipment of the KPE block orders?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Lol. This is first gen ddr5, 99% you will need to replace it. It’s good you are being patient and are voting with your wallet.


DDR4 is already capable of 310fps in SOTR at 1080p on an 11900K and 350fps on a 5950X. Unless you specifically game at 1080p on a 300hs monitor, why bother?


----------



## Section31

Delete


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> You are funny. I am actually in way supporting the general advice to wait out for zen 4/raptorlake.


I think we are saying the same thing. I was agreeing with you in my post, but I didn’t convey it well.


----------



## Section31

Duplicate


----------



## JustinThyme

HyperMatrix said:


> I’m running…or rather will be within a month…an 11 channel Dolby Atmos setup for my computer. 7 of those channels being 500W full sized towers. Haha. Just need some of that ray traced audio we keep hearing about and not seeing.


There is a ceiling on wattage where the sound becomes noise and atmos is limited to the height channels. I have an audiophile two channel system on my PC but what's on my Home entertainment is another story. 500W full sized towers have to have something to drive them? What are you running? I run 4 large towers, Polk Legends L800s and the rest are a pair of L600s which are towers but not what the L800s are or near it. Then 4 height speakers and a pair of L200s as my rear surrounds. Max power on any of them is 300W/channel from multiple amps. Only thing my Denon X6700H drives are the height channels all the rest are driven by other Emotiva 300W/ channel into 4ohm speakers using the preamp output of the Denon. The L800s are bi amped.


----------



## HyperMatrix

JustinThyme said:


> There is a ceiling on wattage where the sound becomes noise and atmos is limited to the height channels. I have an audiophile two channel system on my PC but what's on my Home entertainment is another story. 500W full sized towers have to have something to drive them? What are you running? I run 4 large towers, Polk Legends L800s and the rest are a pair of L600s which are towers but not what the L800s are or near it. Then 4 height speakers and a pair of L200s as my rear surrounds. Max power on any of them is 300W/channel from multiple amps. Only thing my Denon X6700H drives are the height channels all the rest are driven by other Emotiva 300W/ channel into 4ohm speakers using the preamp output of the Denon. The L800s are bi amped.


Oh I'm definitely not running them at 500W. I was just stating that they're very capable 50-500W capable towers. They're still kid's toys compared to your speakers. Haha. Just the Polk RTi A9s. Surprisingly good sound for the money though. Have had police show up at my house twice, even when running them without a subwoofer. Although recently added a monolith 15 sub to the mix. As for Atmos, it's not just height channels. It allows the addition of height channels because it operates in 3D space. You can set any number of speakers (within reason, and with receiver support), whether at ground level, on the wall, or directly above you, and at varying distances. Have an Onkyo TX-RZ50 on preorder with Dirac Live calibration built in that I'm very much looking forward to receiving. Supports 4K120Hz with VRR/HDR/Dolby Vision/etc etc for passthrough from my PC to the big screen. And with an amp added in there, it'll allow me to go from my current 7 channel setup to 11 channels with the addition of 4 height channels. So definitely looking forward to that.


----------



## CluckyTaco

Hey @Optimus WC or anybody else manage to remove the cold plate on their FTW3 block? I'm trying to swap my midplate for the cerakote black and I'm currently stuck trying to get these 4 screws out. I'd didn't try much for fear of stripping them out. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!









Edit: I'm an idiot. A regular 1.5mm hex bit worked. I thought that the inner threads were actually the screws 😅.


----------



## criskoe

CluckyTaco said:


> Hey @Optimus WC or anybody else manage to remove the cold plate on their FTW3 block? I'm trying to swap my midplate for the cerakote black and I'm currently stuck trying to get these 4 screws out. I'd didn't try much for fear of stripping them out. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
> 
> Edit: I'm an idiot. A regular 1.5mm hex bit worked. I thought that the inner threads were actually the screws 😅.


I think the actual proper bit for those is a T6 Torx. I stripped one with a normal Hex bit trying to get it real tight. 

A few weeks ago a Optimus Rep told me they were going to publish a master list for their bits. @Optimus WC


----------



## Section31

So in process of preparation of alderlake upgrade, i took apart part of the loop and good and bad news.

Mayhem XTR has no particles on the block. Blocks are also in excellent condition. The bad news is again the fittings got hit with staining from loop. Cleanable though.


----------



## JustinThyme

HyperMatrix said:


> Oh I'm definitely not running them at 500W. I was just stating that they're very capable 50-500W capable towers. They're still kid's toys compared to your speakers. Haha. Just the Polk RTi A9s. Surprisingly good sound for the money though. Have had police show up at my house twice, even when running them without a subwoofer. Although recently added a monolith 15 sub to the mix. As for Atmos, it's not just height channels. It allows the addition of height channels because it operates in 3D space. You can set any number of speakers (within reason, and with receiver support), whether at ground level, on the wall, or directly above you, and at varying distances. Have an Onkyo TX-RZ50 on preorder with Dirac Live calibration built in that I'm very much looking forward to receiving. Supports 4K120Hz with VRR/HDR/Dolby Vision/etc etc for passthrough from my PC to the big screen. And with an amp added in there, it'll allow me to go from my current 7 channel setup to 11 channels with the addition of 4 height channels. So definitely looking forward to that.


Hard to even find a 500W amp unless you get the junk amps like Pyle.
Polk makes good stuff from the budget end to the top of the line. The Legends L800s are just phenomenal. I was just listening to SACD through my oppo player and the sound reproduction is incredible. My wife cant tell the difference between a clock radio and an audiophile system and complains about the Dolby atmos bouncing off the ceiling and the DTS surround. She would rather just listen to the TV speakers. Well tough sheet! I even have surround in the master bedroom. Not as nice as my man cave aka family room that is MINE!! Im still running Polk speakers upstairs just scaled back a bit with monitor 40s LR and SL/SR and a CS1 center channel, polk 12 inch sub and an Onkyo TX-SR875 AVR. That does 140W/ Channel into 7 channels with all channels driven. Thats what you have to watch out for with AVR and even external amps. Its lame when you see say a 5 channel amp that says 150 watts/channel then the fine print....with 2 channels driven. If the AVR and/or amps are worth a crap you can feel it when you throw your back out picking them up. Same goes for speakers, My L800s go about 120 Lbs each. The reserve series is also a great product that incorporates a lot of the legends technology at a lower price point but still expensive when you consider one R700 goes for $1100 and you kinda need two just to start. I had Monitor 70s for some time that served me well for a good 18 years. They sound decent and but don't have jack on the Legends series. Impedence is another flag to look for. Typically the better speakers will be 4 ohms while most are 8 ohms. Difference is when you connect them to a good amp the 4 ohm speakers will draw twice as much power as the 8 ohm. Even my high end Denon internal amp is weak. 140W but then the clincher....with 2 channels driven. Thats why I only use it to drive my dolby atmos pair of speakers. Every spoe Everything else is pre out to external amps that have some a$$ to drive the speakers. Every speaker connected had enough power to provide it all it needs at peak power without fading. Been contemplating getting some weather proof BT speakers for the deck out back and another pair in the Kitchen/second dining room (they call it a breakfast nook but its hardly a nook at 12x16 ft). I have two more zones and a BT transmitter built in optimized for sonos or it will do WiFi or wired LAN. When we have gatherings most everyone is either in the kitchen area or the deck. Kids will disperse once they have been fed. Its amazing how many people will fit around a Kitchen Island then 8 more chairs in the breakfast nook that's right there.

The calibration is definitely a nice to have. Sets everything for you and calculates the distance and levels instead of the balance and fade that just doesnt cut it. Both my systems have it.


----------



## criskoe

So I vinyl wrapped the terminals and all the sides.. Came out real nice. Going to be mounting gpu horizontally and wanted the blacked out look. I really like it.

@Optimus WC

You guys really need to get that black acrylic you said that might be possible. Black acrylic plates and terminals will look real nice! Another awesome option would be tinted acrylic! Like a nice med tint. Or if the black acrylic isnt a option, finally add some acetal options! Its time!!!!


----------



## Keith Myers

JustinThyme said:


> Hard to even find a 500W amp


Wimpy amps..... pshhaww! Nothing less than 2000W for me, ha ha LOL. EAD PM2000. 5 channels @ 400W each into 4 ohms. Need a furniture dolly to move it around and two people to lift it into place. Driving Magnepans with a 15" subwoofer.


----------



## iamjanco

iamjanco said:


> @Optimus WC Besides the pretty pic on Twitter, any actual status updates regarding shipment of the KPE block orders?


@Optimus WC ??? Again, requesting a status update.

*Update:* sent email formally requesting a full refund.


----------



## HyperMatrix

JustinThyme said:


> Hard to even find a 500W amp unless you get the junk amps like Pyle.
> Polk makes good stuff from the budget end to the top of the line. The Legends L800s are just phenomenal. I was just listening to SACD through my oppo player and the sound reproduction is incredible. My wife cant tell the difference between a clock radio and an audiophile system and complains about the Dolby atmos bouncing off the ceiling and the DTS surround. She would rather just listen to the TV speakers. Well tough sheet! I even have surround in the master bedroom. Not as nice as my man cave aka family room that is MINE!! Im still running Polk speakers upstairs just scaled back a bit with monitor 40s LR and SL/SR and a CS1 center channel, polk 12 inch sub and an Onkyo TX-SR875 AVR. That does 140W/ Channel into 7 channels with all channels driven. Thats what you have to watch out for with AVR and even external amps. Its lame when you see say a 5 channel amp that says 150 watts/channel then the fine print....with 2 channels driven. If the AVR and/or amps are worth a crap you can feel it when you throw your back out picking them up. Same goes for speakers, My L800s go about 120 Lbs each. The reserve series is also a great product that incorporates a lot of the legends technology at a lower price point but still expensive when you consider one R700 goes for $1100 and you kinda need two just to start. I had Monitor 70s for some time that served me well for a good 18 years. They sound decent and but don't have jack on the Legends series. Impedence is another flag to look for. Typically the better speakers will be 4 ohms while most are 8 ohms. Difference is when you connect them to a good amp the 4 ohm speakers will draw twice as much power as the 8 ohm. Even my high end Denon internal amp is weak. 140W but then the clincher....with 2 channels driven. Thats why I only use it to drive my dolby atmos pair of speakers. Every spoe Everything else is pre out to external amps that have some a$$ to drive the speakers. Every speaker connected had enough power to provide it all it needs at peak power without fading. Been contemplating getting some weather proof BT speakers for the deck out back and another pair in the Kitchen/second dining room (they call it a breakfast nook but its hardly a nook at 12x16 ft). I have two more zones and a BT transmitter built in optimized for sonos or it will do WiFi or wired LAN. When we have gatherings most everyone is either in the kitchen area or the deck. Kids will disperse once they have been fed. Its amazing how many people will fit around a Kitchen Island then 8 more chairs in the breakfast nook that's right there.
> 
> The calibration is definitely a nice to have. Sets everything for you and calculates the distance and levels instead of the balance and fade that just doesnt cut it. Both my systems have it.


Yeah I had some Monitor 70s before. They were mediocre at best. Haha. I mean for the price they're probably decent. But compared to 7x RTi A9s in Multi-Channel Stereo mode...the reaction I get from people is that they feel like they're at an actual concert. There's just so much bass as well as sharpness and clarity coming from all directions. It's completely immersive. I had been planning to get additional amplifiers for them as everything I've read about them online talks about how insane they are if you actually push more power into them. But that's going to have to wait until I decide to build a sound proof theater/gaming area in the basement because I can't run them at full blast as is without getting into trouble. Haha. The RTi A9s aren't too bad for weight either. about 80lb each. Calibration is beyond important though. Out of the box sound profile for them is overly bright with limited bass. But with proper tuning...you're looking at a total of 35 drivers and 7 tweeters between them. 

Just so you get a better idea of my setup. Although you can't see the rear channels.


----------



## JustinThyme

HyperMatrix said:


> Yeah I had some Monitor 70s before. They were mediocre at best. Haha. I mean for the price they're probably decent. But compared to 7x RTi A9s in Multi-Channel Stereo mode...the reaction I get from people is that they feel like they're at an actual concert. There's just so much bass as well as sharpness and clarity coming from all directions. It's completely immersive. I had been planning to get additional amplifiers for them as everything I've read about them online talks about how insane they are if you actually push more power into them. But that's going to have to wait until I decide to build a sound proof theater/gaming area in the basement because I can't run them at full blast as is without getting into trouble. Haha. The RTi A9s aren't too bad for weight either. about 80lb each. Calibration is beyond important though. Out of the box sound profile for them is overly bright with limited bass. But with proper tuning...you're looking at a total of 35 drivers and 7 tweeters between them.
> 
> Just so you get a better idea of my setup. Although you can't see the rear channels.
> 
> View attachment 2530775


When the Monitor 70s came out they were second best to the old legends series. Sure there are more expensive speakers on the market. When I bought the legends I was in a sound booth at a retailer with nothing but top of the line speakers. Some were $30K EACH!! I did a blind test ands the L800s won. I just had the guy flip the outputs from one set up speakers to the next and went back and forth between a few of them. In the end I chose a number and what he had written next to that number were the L800 Legends. The 70 monitors I have in my basement collecting dust went for about the same as the reserve series go for today when I bought them and they look pretty much identical to what you have in the picture.

When listening in stereo I listen to two speakers. I go with whatever the tracks were recorded in. SACDs generally have 6 channels so thats what Ill listen to them in, 6 channels. My PC is just a pair of reference studio monitors and an SVS sub.

Im a little old but still enjoy cranking up my favorite tunes. Once you go to amps its a world of difference. Its not just power, its sound quality improvement. Ive watched movies before and after and herd nuances I never knew were there, some of it just silly things like rustling leaves but you can hear everything thats on that track that the best AVR power circuit just cant produce. Best set up would be just a preamp and monoblock amps for every single channel. Take one hell of a power strip though!! LOL. Im finding a 5 channel and pair of two channels with the Denon powering only the atmos height speakers working well for me. Im about at the stage of buying a rack and putting it in the closet as the 3 tier glass shelf under my TV is all full up. Have to make sure the high power stuff is on top so they have some breathing room.

Was just downstairs zoning out on Pink Floyd Dark side of the moon SACD.


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

HyperMatrix said:


> Yeah I had some Monitor 70s before. They were mediocre at best. Haha. I mean for the price they're probably decent. But compared to 7x RTi A9s in Multi-Channel Stereo mode...the reaction I get from people is that they feel like they're at an actual concert. There's just so much bass as well as sharpness and clarity coming from all directions. It's completely immersive. I had been planning to get additional amplifiers for them as everything I've read about them online talks about how insane they are if you actually push more power into them. But that's going to have to wait until I decide to build a sound proof theater/gaming area in the basement because I can't run them at full blast as is without getting into trouble. Haha. The RTi A9s aren't too bad for weight either. about 80lb each. Calibration is beyond important though. Out of the box sound profile for them is overly bright with limited bass. But with proper tuning...you're looking at a total of 35 drivers and 7 tweeters between them.
> 
> Just so you get a better idea of my setup. Although you can't see the rear channels.


Now that is a gaming setup.....and I thought I was doing well with my large bookshelf kit speakers and dual 12" subs.


----------



## JustinThyme

HyperMatrix said:


> Yeah I had some Monitor 70s before. They were mediocre at best. Haha. I mean for the price they're probably decent. But compared to 7x RTi A9s in Multi-Channel Stereo mode...the reaction I get from people is that they feel like they're at an actual concert. There's just so much bass as well as sharpness and clarity coming from all directions. It's completely immersive. I had been planning to get additional amplifiers for them as everything I've read about them online talks about how insane they are if you actually push more power into them. But that's going to have to wait until I decide to build a sound proof theater/gaming area in the basement because I can't run them at full blast as is without getting into trouble. Haha. The RTi A9s aren't too bad for weight either. about 80lb each. Calibration is beyond important though. Out of the box sound profile for them is overly bright with limited bass. But with proper tuning...you're looking at a total of 35 drivers and 7 tweeters between them.
> 
> Just so you get a better idea of my setup. Although you can't see the rear channels.
> 
> View attachment 2530775


Just one more piece of advice. When you do get amps look for grounding posts. If they dont have one then make one and bond all the Chassis' together. If not you may run into 60 cycle hum on the speakers with just having the amps powered on. I use triggers so everything powers up from standby when I turn on the Denon. Everything is grounded with chassis grounds, just a loop one to the next going back to the Denon. I didnt see if I was getting 60 cycle hum, just an old audiophile habit.


----------



## iamjanco

iamjanco said:


> @Optimus WC ??? Again, requesting a status update.
> 
> *Update:* sent email formally requesting a full refund.


@Optimus WC Thank you for taking care of my request asap. The refund, that is. If it helps, I'd order something from you again in the future, but only if it was stocked.

For the others still waiting on their block, this is the message I received: _it's been refunded, sorry for the delay, the kingpin block has taken way longer than expected, but thanks for giving us a chance _


----------



## acoustic

It would be great if I didn't have to read around speaker talk (????) ..

Sucks that you had to request the refund, but truthfully I'm surprised it took so long, or that more people haven't requested one.

Good on them for issuing the refund asap, though.


----------



## chibi

iamjanco said:


> @Optimus WC Thank you for taking care of my request asap. The refund, that is. If it helps, I'd order something from you again in the future, but only if it was stocked.
> 
> For the others still waiting on their block, this is the message I received: _it's been refunded, sorry for the delay, the kingpin block has taken way longer than expected, but thanks for giving us a chance _


Sticking with the HC block? Sucks whenever us CAD's have to refund. We lose around $50 in conversion and fees. More if larger order


----------



## Shawnb99

HyperMatrix said:


> Yeah I had some Monitor 70s before. They were mediocre at best. Haha. I mean for the price they're probably decent. But compared to 7x RTi A9s in Multi-Channel Stereo mode...the reaction I get from people is that they feel like they're at an actual concert. There's just so much bass as well as sharpness and clarity coming from all directions. It's completely immersive. I had been planning to get additional amplifiers for them as everything I've read about them online talks about how insane they are if you actually push more power into them. But that's going to have to wait until I decide to build a sound proof theater/gaming area in the basement because I can't run them at full blast as is without getting into trouble. Haha. The RTi A9s aren't too bad for weight either. about 80lb each. Calibration is beyond important though. Out of the box sound profile for them is overly bright with limited bass. But with proper tuning...you're looking at a total of 35 drivers and 7 tweeters between them.
> 
> Just so you get a better idea of my setup. Although you can't see the rear channels.
> 
> View attachment 2530775


That's a 7 floor standing speaker surround sound? Impressive. My old JBL Studio L's setup would shake the lights downstairs at just low volume and that was with just two floor standing speakers, the rest center or surround. The bass alone on those would just pound!

How does that sound in surround sound considering none were designed as a center or surround sound channels?


----------



## JustinThyme

HyperMatrix said:


> Oh I'm definitely not running them at 500W. I was just stating that they're very capable 50-500W capable towers. They're still kid's toys compared to your speakers. Haha. Just the Polk RTi A9s. Surprisingly good sound for the money though. Have had police show up at my house twice, even when running them without a subwoofer. Although recently added a monolith 15 sub to the mix. As for Atmos, it's not just height channels. It allows the addition of height channels because it operates in 3D space. You can set any number of speakers (within reason, and with receiver support), whether at ground level, on the wall, or directly above you, and at varying distances. Have an Onkyo TX-RZ50 on preorder with Dirac Live calibration built in that I'm very much looking forward to receiving. Supports 4K120Hz with VRR/HDR/Dolby Vision/etc etc for passthrough from my PC to the big screen. And with an amp added in there, it'll allow me to go from my current 7 channel setup to 11 channels with the addition of 4 height channels. So definitely looking forward to that.


Just for clarification on Atmos. There’s a lot of Dolby modes but the Atmos is referring to adding height channels into the mix. Took me awhile to get mine working correctly. Freaking Denons are complex. I add height channels and Atmos is not available. Have to go in menu and set height to none and add Atmos speakers. I’m not mounting high or in the ceiling. Already run enough wires and not about to have cables dangling or cutting holes in the ceiling. Use the Polk R900s that are angled up firing and bounce off the ceiling. Didn’t have to set the delay manually thanks to the auto calibration feature.


----------



## HyperMatrix

JustinThyme said:


> Just for clarification on Atmos. There’s a lot of Dolby modes but the Atmos is referring to adding height channels into the mix. Took me awhile to get mine working correctly. Freaking Denons are complex. I add height channels and Atmos is not available. Have to go in menu and set height to none and add Atmos speakers. I’m not mounting high or in the ceiling. Already run enough wires and not about to have cables dangling or cutting holes in the ceiling. Use the Polk R900s that are angled up firing and bounce off the ceiling. Didn’t have to set the delay manually thanks to the auto calibration feature.
> 
> 
> View attachment 2530853


Yup. Atmos allows the addition of height channels but Atmos doesn't just refer to the height channels. In order to be able to add height channels to the mix, they switched to an object based audio system. So once set up and calibrated, imagine the area you're sitting in as a giant sphere. Every sound coming through will have a certain position in that 3D bubble. And that's translated to the calibrated positioning of your system, and output from the appropriate speakers at the appropriate volume. So you could have dozens of speakers, both on the floor and on the wall and on the ceiling. Because the sound is no longer handled as "front right, front left, etc etc" and is completely object based and using the position of the source of each sound in that sphere. This processing and calculation is done on all your speakers. Whether on the ground or your height channels. It's just that this type of processing allows the additional of height channels. Not that the height channels are what Atmos is. You can even run a Dolby Atmos setup without any height channels at all. Except then you'd be limited to a flat plane. But all the 360 positional audio will still work perfectly.


----------



## iamjanco

chibi said:


> Sticking with the HC block? Sucks whenever us CAD's have to refund. We lose around $50 in conversion and fees. More if larger order


Yup, I'll be sticking with the HC block and the backplate I've got. They work well enough for what I'm doing.


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> work well enough


What is this strange concept you speak of?


----------



## iamjanco

iamjanco said:


> work well enough
> 
> 
> Shawnb99 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What is this strange concept you speak of?
Click to expand...

If I have to explain it to you, you wouldn't understand. Let's just say I've seen the light...


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> What is this strange concept you speak of?


I am seriously considering buying an small ultrasonic cleaner lol. I am getting tired of cleaning fitting (its going to happen no matter what i do) and i can't justify buying new round of fittings every time and then giving them away again.

Hard Tubing fittings are much easier to clean than the soft tube compression ones.


----------



## Section31

My only question about ultrasonic is there anything special i need outside the machine itself.


----------



## chibi

Just get the machine and some cleaning additive. Optimus posted the chemical they used a while back, I don't remember which brand it was.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> My only question about ultrasonic is there anything special i need outside the machine itself.


Not something I know much of anything about. I just imagine don't use any liquid that could strip or discolor the finish on the fittings.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Just get the machine and some cleaning additive. Optimus posted the chemical they used a while back, I don't remember which brand it was.


Will look it up. At this point, i expect fittings to pickup the material so might as well as invest in maintaining them. Still better than having fittings with paint chip.


----------



## anr11

Section31 said:


> Will look it up. At this point, i expect fittings to pickup the material so might as well as invest in maintaining them. Still better than having fittings with paint chip.


For fittings you will likely be fine just using distilled + a drop of dishwashing liquid. Beware of cleaning fittings with damaged coatings. If they are already chipped, ultrasonic cleaning will likely make the damage worse.


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> Will look it up. At this point, i expect fittings to pickup the material so might as well as invest in maintaining them. Still better than having fittings with paint chip.


I found it, here is the post details:
For the test we did, I checked with the guy who did it and he did use ultrasonic cleaning additive: *Brulin 815GD*









Optimus Waterblock


Perhaps if i wasn't using a radiator and fans on the bottom I could use a brace like that.




www.overclock.net


----------



## JustinThyme

HyperMatrix said:


> Yup. Atmos allows the addition of height channels but Atmos doesn't just refer to the height channels. In order to be able to add height channels to the mix, they switched to an object based audio system. So once set up and calibrated, imagine the area you're sitting in as a giant sphere. Every sound coming through will have a certain position in that 3D bubble. And that's translated to the calibrated positioning of your system, and output from the appropriate speakers at the appropriate volume. So you could have dozens of speakers, both on the floor and on the wall and on the ceiling. Because the sound is no longer handled as "front right, front left, etc etc" and is completely object based and using the position of the source of each sound in that sphere. This processing and calculation is done on all your speakers. Whether on the ground or your height channels. It's just that this type of processing allows the additional of height channels. Not that the height channels are what Atmos is. You can even run a Dolby Atmos setup without any height channels at all. Except then you'd be limited to a flat plane. But all the 360 positional audio will still work perfectly.


There is a difference between height channels and Atmos. If the recorded title isn't Atmos you don't get Atmos, you get height added to the rest. Take it to a home theater and play a movie with Atmos and you will see things more clearly. You have to have 4K HDR with Atmos source. Ive wathced enough content you can tell the difference and the AVR has to have Atmos capability as well. I can see it when it lights up on my Denon. When a different dolby mode, that mode is displayed and decoded accordingly. When its Atmos the Display on the Denon says Atmos and processed as Atmos. Some music tracks are recorded with Atmos, not many though. Theres a pretty good amount on Apple Music but unfortunately most of it is not something Id listen to. Nothing in my SACD library was recorded with Atmos. Again there is a distinct different between Atmos and adding height channels. Its like the difference between Stereo and all channel stereo. Its still two channels but Everything left and everything right is lit up in all channel stereo playing the same sound that was recorded for two channels.

Theres even lists on netflix. Nothing that is not in the 4K section has Atmos and every title will tell you if its 5.1 or Atmos.

Lord knows I studied up on it before I dumped $20K into my sound system. Sure you can get it "Virtualized" in two speakers if you want but its not the same. Even headphones. Once you actually hear it as its recorded and not virtualized you will hear what Im talking about. Its phenominal in my 9.2.2 and when we sell this overpriced $800K house and move into our retirement home it will have 9.2.4


----------



## HyperMatrix

JustinThyme said:


> There is a difference between height channels and Atmos. If the recorded title isn't Atmos you don't get Atmos, you get height added to the rest. Take it to a home theater and play a movie with Atmos and you will see things more clearly. You have to have 4K HDR with Atmos source. Ive wathced enough content you can tell the difference and the AVR has to have Atmos capability as well. I can see it when it lights up on my Denon. When a different dolby mode, that mode is displayed and decoded accordingly. When its Atmos the Display on the Denon says Atmos and processed as Atmos. Some music tracks are recorded with Atmos, not many though. Theres a pretty good amount on Apple Music but unfortunately most of it is not something Id listen to. Nothing in my SACD library was recorded with Atmos. Again there is a distinct different between Atmos and adding height channels. Its like the difference between Stereo and all channel stereo. Its still two channels but Everything left and everything right is lit up in all channel stereo playing the same sound that was recorded for two channels.
> 
> Theres even lists on netflix. Nothing that is not in the 4K section has Atmos and every title will tell you if its 5.1 or Atmos.
> 
> Lord knows I studied up on it before I dumped $20K into my sound system. Sure you can get it "Virtualized" in two speakers if you want but its not the same. Even headphones. Once you actually hear it as its recorded and not virtualized you will hear what Im talking about. Its phenominal in my 9.2.2 and when we sell this overpriced $800K house and move into our retirement home it will have 9.2.4


As I said....Dolby Atmos is independent of height channels. It allows you to add height channels, but isn't required to work. You'd just end up with positional object based audio on a 2D plane. So you can have, as I currently do, a 7.1 Dolby Atmos setup with 0 height channels. Most of the content on my NAS supports Atmos. Several computer games also support Atmos. As do some music tracks on Tidal. As far as I'm aware, Dolby Atmos support in Apple Music is only compatible with some of their headphones and not an actual home theater system. They have Dolby Spatial Audio which is just a virtualized gimick, just like you can enable Dolby Atmos for Headphones on your PC, which is different from Dolby Atmos for Home Theaters. I could be wrong and they could have full Atmos support when you play the song on your PC.

I've been running Dolby Atmos through my receiver, connected to my PC, for 4 years now. So none of this is new to me. My receiver is capable of 5.1.2 or 7.1 and I decided to go with 7.1. No height channels. The new Onkyo will let me add 2 height channels, and an additional 2 height channels if I power them through a separate amp for a full 7.2.4 setup. Dolby Atmos is also not restricted to HDR or even 4K content. But streaming platforms may only include Atmos in their high end streams which are 4K and HDR. You can get 1080p videos or even 720p videos with Dolby Atmos audio. I don't subscribe to Netflix for political reasons so I'm not up to date on their listing practices and whether they do or do not support Atmos in lower resolution videos. If you hook up your receiver to your PC you can download the Dolby Access app to verify you have Atmos enabled and run some test clips for yourself. And as usual, your receiver should display when the stream it's getting is Dolby Atmos.


----------



## asdf893

criskoe said:


> So I vinyl wrapped the terminals and all the sides.. Came out real nice. Going to be mounting gpu horizontally and wanted the blacked out look. I really like it.
> 
> @Optimus WC
> 
> You guys really need to get that black acrylic you said that might be possible. Black acrylic plates and terminals will look real nice! Another awesome option would be tinted acrylic! Like a nice med tint. Or if the black acrylic isnt a option, finally add some acetal options! Its time!!!!
> 
> View attachment 2530686


this looks reaaaaaaaaally good. how much to wrap mine?  im wondering how they'll hold up to thermal cycles


----------



## criskoe

asdf893 said:


> this looks reaaaaaaaaally good. how much to wrap mine?  im wondering how they'll hold up to thermal cycles


LOL Thanks. I think it looks good too. Really makes me want Optimus to finally come out with something other then clear acrylic for their gpus. I used a nice high quality 3M wrap so it should have no adhesion issues. My loop never gets above 35c so I dont think there should be any issues with thermal cycles. Ive used this stuff in car audio builds and trim panels and it holds up great, so it really should be no problems. The stuff is designed to wrap the outside of a car which will get much hotter under the direct sun.


----------



## criskoe

Hey guys. Im horrible at judging when things are screwed in tight enough or not. I can never tell if im overdoing it until its too late. My mind is always like, if I can still turn it, keep going!. LOL. Screw threads dont like me. 

How tight are you guys doing the main screws that squeeze the pcb between the backplate and the main block on these Optimus GPU blocks? The instruction cutout says "very firm" but im a horrible judge on that. Should I really be reefing on them with the little Allen key? They dont look to have standoffs under some of them so you really can keep going. Ive gotten them "tight" but they can still spin if I keep going. They dont seems to bottom out or stop spinning. Im afraid to go too far.


----------



## Keith Myers

criskoe said:


> Hey guys. Im horrible at judging when things are screwed in tight enough or not. I can never tell if im overdoing it until its too late. My mind is always like, if I can still turn it, keep going!. LOL. Screw threads dont like me.
> 
> How tight are you guys doing the main screws that squeeze the pcb between the backplate and the main block on these Optimus GPU blocks? The instruction cutout says "very firm" but im a horrible judge on that. Should I really be reefing on them with the little Allen key? They dont look to have standoffs under some of them so you really can keep going. Ive gotten them "tight" but they can still spin if I keep going. They dont seems to bottom out or stop spinning. Im afraid to go too far.


There is a maximum torque value for all screw sizes. Use the chart on the right for for the screw size that the gpu backplate uses. It's going to be in inch-lbs. So you shouldn't go so far you shear the screw head off.
TORQUE-TENSION REFERENCE GUIDE


----------



## criskoe

Hey thanks for the chart. Someone like me should invest in a small torque driver. Take all the guess work out.

Im afraid that I might have other issues tho. I figured I had it on tight enough. It was pretty tight and I using the shorter end of the L key to turn. But looking in the side of the card, it looked like the VRM wasnt making contact at all. So I figured I better just take it apart and check the contact. And sure enough. The GPU, memory, and the small chips beside the vrm were all making decent contact but the main VRM inductor modules arnt making contact at all? ***. The pads are untouched and didnt touch the block at all. No compression marks and they didnt stick to the main block like all the other pads.. I just lifted them off and they look brand new still.

When looking through the side of the card it looks to be a pretty large gap? This is a 3080ti but I thought that it shouldn't make a difference. The gap is pretty big. And looking at the contact of the pads beside them, they are making contact so its not gunna get much tighter..

Was something changed and i didnt get the right pads?? Anyone else notice this when tearing down your card afterwards?
@asdf893 didnt you notice this on your 3090?


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Hey thanks for the chart. Someone like me should invest in a small torque driver. Take all the guess work out.
> 
> Im afraid that I might have other issues tho. I figured I had it on tight enough. It was pretty tight and I using the shorter end of the L key to turn. But looking in the side of the card, it looked like the VRM wasnt making contact at all. So I figured I better just take it apart and check the contact. And sure enough. The GPU, memory, and the small chips beside the vrm were all making decent contact but the main VRM inductor modules arnt making contact at all? ***. The pads are untouched and didnt touch the block at all. No compression marks and they didnt stick to the main block like all the other pads.. I just lifted them off and they look brand new still.
> 
> When looking through the side of the card it looks to be a pretty large gap? This is a 3080ti but I thought that it shouldn't make a difference. The gap is pretty big. And looking at the contact of the pads beside them, they are making contact so its not gunna get much tighter..
> 
> Was something changed and i didnt get the right pads?? Anyone else notice this when tearing down your card afterwards?
> 
> View attachment 2530979
> 
> View attachment 2530980
> View attachment 2530981
> View attachment 2530982


I did it as tight as it could. The gap shouldn’t be an issue.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> I did it as tight as it could. The gap shouldn’t be an issue.


Those inductor modules don't need to be cooled or contact? Seems strange to include a thermal pad for them if they are not going to make contact anyways. LOL..


----------



## criskoe

Well reading more about these things. I guess they are just inductor coils. And according to EK they dont need to be cooled. I guess when EK released their blocks people quickly found out that the coils were not making contact with their blocks even though they supplied thermal pads too. And well people lost their **** of course. LOL... EKs response was that they are just coils and they dont need to be cooled. But if you are experiencing coil whine cause the coils are not being contacted that you could reach out to them and they would send you a thick 6mm thermal pad to fill the gap and reduce the coil whine.

With the card torn down again I grabbed my digital caliper and measured the height difference between the small chips and the taller inductor coils and then measured the block section that should make contact and the difference is roughly 1.62mm...... Hence why there is a big gap and the .5mm thermal pads that optimus supply isnt making contact. Interesting..... Is this cause I have a 3080ti? Arnt all the cards supposed to be the same with the FTW3? (3080, 3080ti, 3090?)

Again considering that Optimus supplies thermal pads for them and instructions for a location to put them and for them to not make contact at all seems weird...Why bother supply pads for gap much bigger??? I totally can see EK doing this. But Optimus??????

@Optimus WC Can you please comment on this.......

If anyone else is wondering if your coils are making contact with the block or not. You can easily see by looking at the side of the block to the left of the block terminals. You should be able to see the coils and if they make contact.. The gap is pretty obvious as my picture above shows.


----------



## asdf893

criskoe said:


> Well reading more about these things. I guess they are just inductor coils. And according to EK they dont need to be cooled. I guess when EK released their blocks people quickly found out that the coils were not making contact with their blocks even though they supplied thermal pads too. And well people lost their **** of course. LOL... EKs response was that they are just coils and they dont need to be cooled. But if you are experiencing coil whine cause the coils are not being contacted that you could reach out to them and they would send you a thick 6mm thermal pad to fill the gap and reduce the coil whine.
> 
> With the card torn down again I grabbed my digital caliper and measured the height difference between the small chips and the taller inductor coils and then measured the block section that should make contact and the difference is roughly 1.62mm...... Hence why there is a big gap and the .5mm thermal pads that optimus supply isnt making contact. Interesting..... Is this cause I have a 3080ti? Arnt all the cards supposed to be the same with the FTW3? (3080, 3080ti, 3090?)
> 
> Again considering that Optimus supplies thermal pads for them and instructions for a location to put them and for them to not make contact at all seems weird...Why bother supply pads for gap much bigger??? I totally can see EK doing this. But Optimus??????
> 
> @Optimus WC Can you please comment on this.......
> 
> If anyone else is wondering if your coils are making contact with the block or not. You can easily see by looking at the side of the block to the left of the block terminals. You should be able to see the coils and if they make contact.. The gap is pretty obvious as my picture above shows.


I had this _exact same _problem when mounting a copper optimus block to my EVGA 3090 FTW3. This was a long time ago and I wasn't ready to point fingers but that EVGA card stopped working 24hours after the install. I've installed probably 20 GPU waterblocks and just like your photos show mine also showed that those same thermal pads clearly had mode ZERO contact. At the time I didn't want to attribute the card failure to optimus but since then I've installed 3 EK and 3 Alphacool waterblocks to other EVGA 3090 FTW3 cards and have had zero failures. And those inductors were making probably contact on those waterblocks. I have my waterblock disassembly photo somewhere showing lack of contact on optimus install. Sooooooooooo...
@Optimus WC


----------



## Zurv

I've been away for a bit.. so the Optimus question.. Do they still stuck at getting stock shipped? 
I ordered a new intel CPU block for the 12900kf. Is it going to take a million years still or did they fix their **** already?


----------



## Keith Myers

criskoe said:


> Hey thanks for the chart. Someone like me should invest in a small torque driver. Take all the guess work out.


Well as someone who early in his electro-mechanical career was guilty of shearing bolts off regularly and had to use a torque wrench before he learned how to use muscle memory correctly, a torque wrench for small screws might be a good idea.


----------



## Keith Myers

Zurv said:


> I've been away for a bit.. so the Optimus question.. Do they still stuck at getting stock shipped?
> I ordered a new intel CPU block for the 12900kf. Is it going to take a million years still or did they fix their **** already?


From what I have been reading lately, and my personal experiences, if the part is in stock it gets shipped within a day or two.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC


Zurv said:


> I've been away for a bit.. so the Optimus question.. Do they still stuck at getting stock shipped?
> I ordered a new intel CPU block for the 12900kf. Is it going to take a million years still or did they fix their **** already?


I ordered a new Sig2 block and reservoir on a Thursday and shipped on Monday


----------



## Optimus WC

hey guys, the inductors on the GPU don't need contact, we stopped shipping pads with the Strix/etc because of it, the FTW was early so we included it, now it's just included because that's how we made the pads in the beginning, so bonus thermal pads for ftw3 users  But the block shouldn't make contact with the inductors, the pressure is dialed in on the VRM for best cooling, same with die and VRAM.


----------



## asdf893

asdf893 said:


> I had this _exact same _problem when mounting a copper optimus block to my EVGA 3090 FTW3. This was a long time ago and I wasn't ready to point fingers but that EVGA card stopped working 24hours after the install. I've installed probably 20 GPU waterblocks and just like your photos show mine also showed that those same thermal pads clearly had mode ZERO contact. At the time I didn't want to attribute the card failure to optimus but since then I've installed 3 EK and 3 Alphacool waterblocks to other EVGA 3090 FTW3 cards and have had zero failures. And those inductors were making probably contact on those waterblocks. I have my waterblock disassembly photo somewhere showing lack of contact on optimus install. Sooooooooooo...
> @Optimus WC





Optimus WC said:


> hey guys, the inductors on the GPU don't need contact, we stopped shipping pads with the Strix/etc because of it, the FTW was early so we included it, now it's just included because that's how we made the pads in the beginning, so bonus thermal pads for ftw3 users  But the block shouldn't make contact with the inductors, the pressure is dialed in on the VRM for best cooling, same with die and VRAM.


So is it just a coincidence that my card died right after block install? If inductors don't need cooling then why does EVGA cool it with their thermal putty? Why not design the block with such a huge gap from the inductors to the block itself? It's hard to imagine this isn't a mistake in the waterblock design.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC So no extra mount is needed for the 12900k? Also any idea if the Active backplate will be an issue with some of the Asus boards and their high heatsinks?


----------



## Zurv

Shawnb99 said:


> @Optimus WC So no extra mount is needed for the 12900k? Also any idea if the Active backplate will be an issue with some of the Asus boards and their high heatsinks?


Good question, I have a 12900kf and a asus mobo coming (and ordered a new block from Optimus.


----------



## Shawnb99

Zurv said:


> Good question, I have a 12900kf and a asus mobo coming (and ordered a new block from Optimus.


Nice! What model? I got a 12900k and Asus Extreme incoming. Going vertical will also be an issue due to the Dimm.2 slot as well


----------



## criskoe

Shawnb99 said:


> Nice! What model? I got a 12900k and Asus Extreme incoming. Going vertical will also be an issue due to the Dimm.2 slot as well


where were you able to order the Extreme? I can’t find it anywhere. How much did it go for?


----------



## Section31

b&h has it for preorder


----------



## zGunBLADEz

i would not put evga and "dying gpus" in a sentence to defend the cause lol just saying.
Lucky their warranry is top tier tho.


----------



## criskoe

Optimus WC said:


> hey guys, the inductors on the GPU don't need contact, we stopped shipping pads with the Strix/etc because of it, the FTW was early so we included it, now it's just included because that's how we made the pads in the beginning, so bonus thermal pads for ftw3 users  But the block shouldn't make contact with the inductors, the pressure is dialed in on the VRM for best cooling, same with die and VRAM.


interesting.

Well not being sure, I threw a 2mm fujy pad on them and buttoned it all back up. The pressure looks the same around all the other components still, and looks to have perfect contact from the side now. A 2mm fujy pad looks to fit perfectly. 

Should I be taking it all apart again and removing them? will what I’ve done hurt performance?


----------



## Keith Myers

No it can only help. The inductors do get hot. As long as the new pads do not impact the pressure on the VRM's, memory and gpu . . . . leave them in place.


----------



## criskoe

Keith Myers said:


> No it can only help. The inductors do get hot. As long as the new pads do not impact the pressure on the VRM's, memory and gpu . . . . leave them in place.


ok ima leave them in.

Not sure if it’s true about inductor coils but reading about them last night, I found many posts saying that when bare they can be more prone to producing coil whine and having some pressure on them can cut down the noise and sometimes completely silence the whine. Again I don’t know how true this is But thats why I decided to throw some thicker pads on them. I absolutely loath coil whine.


----------



## Keith Myers

criskoe said:


> ok ima leave them in.
> 
> Not sure if it’s true about inductor coils but reading about them last night, I found many posts saying that when bare they can be more prone to producing coil whine and having some pressure on them can cut down the noise and sometimes completely silence the whine. Again I don’t know how true this is. Thats why I decided to throw some thicker pads on them.


This is true. Chokes can operate at very high temperatures. But the heat produced in them adds overall to the heat propagated into the overall PCB. Adding mass to the chokes via the contact with the pads and cooler will lower the resonant frequency and likely prevent coil whine.


----------



## asdf893

criskoe said:


> interesting.
> 
> Well not being sure, I threw a 2mm fujy pad on them and buttoned it all back up. The pressure looks the same around all the other components still, and looks to have perfect contact from the side now. A 2mm fujy pad looks to fit perfectly.
> 
> Should I be taking it all apart again and removing them? will what I’ve done hurt performance?
> 
> View attachment 2531036





criskoe said:


> ok ima leave them in.
> 
> Not sure if it’s true about inductor coils but reading about them last night, I found many posts saying that when bare they can be more prone to producing coil whine and having some pressure on them can cut down the noise and sometimes completely silence the whine. Again I don’t know how true this is But thats why I decided to throw some thicker pads on them. I absolutely loath coil whine.


Thanks for the heads-up. Optimus should provide 2mm pads then instead of the super thing (0.5mm?) pads then saying it doesn't matter anyway.


----------



## chibi

criskoe said:


> @Optimus WC Can you please comment on this.......
> 
> If anyone else is wondering if your coils are making contact with the block or not. You can easily see by looking at the side of the block to the left of the block terminals. You should be able to see the coils and if they make contact.. The gap is pretty obvious as my picture above shows.


I actually discussed this with them, here's what they had to say:

"Ah yes, so the pads on inductors aren't needed for any of the 3000 series cards. We included them early with the FTWs because we hadn't gotten samples to do full testing when we started planning for them. The inductors make no heat, all the heat is on the backside of the PCB, where the power traces are located. So adding pads would actually hurt the pressure on the mosfets right next to them (potentially). And provide zero additional cooling or anything noticeable. So you've got the best there is "

Edit - looks like I was a bit late and Opt has already responded.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Does the Optimus block come with inductor puddy? My Hydrocopper block came with a tube.


----------



## asdf893

0451 said:


> Does the Optimus block come with inductor puddy? My Hydrocopper block came with a tube.


My early-order FTW3 block didn't come with putty. I do know EVGA sells putty so now I'm wondering if I should get 1mm or 1.5mm pads and add putty.


----------



## Zurv

Shawnb99 said:


> Nice! What model? I got a 12900k and Asus Extreme incoming. Going vertical will also be an issue due to the Dimm.2 slot as well


I got the ROG STRIX Z690-F because it was in stock at amazon.
Oh, B&H has ASUS Republic of Gamers MAXIMUS Z690 APEX. Well.. i cancelled that strix mobo. 
I plan to replace it with one of the high end EVGA mobos when they come out in dec.

The problem is the ram. I couldn't find any fast speeds. I did order 32 gigs of 4800 form B&H.. but i'll likely replace those too when more options come out.
hopefully it can run faster than the 4800. It will hurt my pride if run at the lowest speed.

question, why are people getting the 12900K and not the KF? the KF is cheaper and doesn't come with the GPU.


----------



## dng25

0451 said:


> Does the Optimus block come with inductor puddy? My Hydrocopper block came with a tube.


tbh seems like evga just got lazy with the block design with puddy.


----------



## criskoe

chibi said:


> I actually discussed this with them, here's what they had to say:
> 
> "Ah yes, so the pads on inductors aren't needed for any of the 3000 series cards. We included them early with the FTWs because we hadn't gotten samples to do full testing when we started planning for them. The inductors make no heat, all the heat is on the backside of the PCB, where the power traces are located. So adding pads would actually hurt the pressure on the mosfets right next to them (potentially). And provide zero additional cooling or anything noticeable. So you've got the best there is "
> 
> Edit - looks like I was a bit late and Opt has already responded.


Thanks for posting this.

I ended up putting 2mm Fuji pads on myn late last night to get the block closed back up. And I’m too lazy to tear it back open again.

I measured everything with a calliper and the 2 mm fuji pads are pretty squishy and soft so I really can’t see it effecting pressure else where In my case. The general consensus is that the coils don’t need cooling but having something on them can help prevent coil whine so I’m gunna take the risk.

I guess once I get it installed the icx sensors should show if it’s effected the pwr mosfets beside them. If something is off I’ll take em off.

sounds like it’s totally not necessary tho. I just don’t want to take it apart again and risk damaging the other pads If I don’t have to.


----------



## Shawnb99

criskoe said:


> where were you able to order the Extreme? I can’t find it anywhere. How much did it go for?


B&H and was $1,099.99 USD. It still shows as a pre-order so they may not be out yet. Newegg.ca lists Dec 18th as when they will be released, hopefully I don't have to wait that long though it does give me time to find ram


----------



## criskoe

Shawnb99 said:


> B&H and was $1,099.99 USD. It still shows as a pre-order so they may not be out yet. Newegg.ca lists Dec 18th as when they will be released, hopefully I don't have to wait that long though it does give me time to find ram


Nice! 

Strange that asus isn’t leading with the top boards out first. Wonder what that’s about.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> B&H and was $1,099.99 USD. It still shows as a pre-order so they may not be out yet. Newegg.ca lists Dec 18th as when they will be released, hopefully I don't have to wait that long though it does give me time to find ram


Hope we all find the ram we want


----------



## elbramso

So Optimus has all the needed parts to build the KPE block since 2 weeks. First manufactured KPE block was presented 6 days ago. When do we finally receive our blocks @Optimus WC ?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

elbramso said:


> So Optimus has all the needed parts to build the KPE block since 2 weeks. First manufactured KPE block was presented 6 days ago. When do we finally receive our blocks @Optimus WC ?


Sometime next year


----------



## Biggu

Zurv said:


> I got the ROG STRIX Z690-F because it was in stock at amazon.
> Oh, B&H has ASUS Republic of Gamers MAXIMUS Z690 APEX. Well.. i cancelled that strix mobo.
> I plan to replace it with one of the high end EVGA mobos when they come out in dec.
> 
> The problem is the ram. I couldn't find any fast speeds. I did order 32 gigs of 4800 form B&H.. but i'll likely replace those too when more options come out.
> hopefully it can run faster than the 4800. It will hurt my pride if run at the lowest speed.
> 
> question, why are people getting the 12900K and not the KF? the KF is cheaper and doesn't come with the GPU.


I went to microcenter first thing in the morning and had an Asus Apex, Corsair Dominator 5200 32 GB kit, and of course the 12900k but I grabbed the last one and my buddy needed it more than I so I let him take it. I ended up only getting the 12900k. I should go the ram too but oh well hoping to get better later. Probably going to regret giving up the motherboard but Id rather he get a decent board then be stuck with a lower end one. Ive got a Maximus extreme on pre order with B&H so we will see.


----------



## Shawnb99

Biggu said:


> Ive got a Maximus extreme on pre order with B&H so we will see.


Same. Hopefully they won’t take too long to ship out.


----------



## acoustic

Biggu said:


> I went to microcenter first thing in the morning and had an Asus Apex, Corsair Dominator 5200 32 GB kit, and of course the 12900k but I grabbed the last one and my buddy needed it more than I so I let him take it. I ended up only getting the 12900k. I should go the ram too but oh well hoping to get better later. Probably going to regret giving up the motherboard but Id rather he get a decent board then be stuck with a lower end one. Ive got a Maximus extreme on pre order with B&H so we will see.


My MC had no APEX


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> I went to microcenter first thing in the morning and had an Asus Apex, Corsair Dominator 5200 32 GB kit, and of course the 12900k but I grabbed the last one and my buddy needed it more than I so I let him take it. I ended up only getting the 12900k. I should go the ram too but oh well hoping to get better later. Probably going to regret giving up the motherboard but Id rather he get a decent board then be stuck with a lower end one. Ive got a Maximus extreme on pre order with B&H so we will see.


Nice. I ended up sticking with the hero. However will just wait for trident z5 ddr5 to release. I bought crucial ddr5-4800 so my system can go online at least.


----------



## Shawnb99

I’m debating grabbing some ram if memexpress has any in stock but I dunno since I don’t have an ETA for my MB, knowing my luck that won’t ship anytime soon


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I’m debating grabbing some ram if memexpress has any in stock but I dunno since I don’t have an ETA for my MB, knowing my luck that won’t ship anytime soon


You can always put in placeholder item and change your mind at later date. I should have done it. There customer service instore is top notch.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> You can always put in placeholder item and change your mind at later date. I should have done it. There customer service instore is top notch.


Yeah I might. I don’t really want to waste money on a kit now only to sell it a significant loss later.
I don’t really seeing getting much of a return on anything we grab now


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah I might. I don’t really want to waste money on a kit now only to sell it a significant loss later.
> I don’t really seeing getting much of a return on anything we grab now


Its going to be awhile till we see ddr5-6000 plus imo. By then timing will improve to normal cl 20ish i guess.


----------



## Shawnb99

Store shows out of stock for ram but I’ll see when I go in.
Surprised by how my 12900’s are left I figured they would sold out quickly but I guess when you can’t buy anything else there’s little point in rushing for the cpu


----------



## acoustic

Shawnb99 said:


> Store shows out of stock for ram but I’ll see when I go in.
> Surprised by how my 12900’s are left I figured they would sold out quickly but I guess when you can’t buy anything else there’s little point in rushing for the cpu


I think Intel's 10nm is fabbing quite well too.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Section31 said:


> Its going to be awhile till we see ddr5-6000 plus imo. By then timing will improve to normal cl 20ish i guess.


i give it 2-3iterations of cpus to see better ram kits.. this is the same situation what happen on devils vs skylake no incentive to upgrade... ddr3 was still raging on ddr4 mediocre kits.. specially those 2400-2800 ddr3 kits with low timings.... plus also by then pciex6 would be rolling out.
the price is nice on the cpu aint going to lie specially vs what intel prices the last 2 cpus but when you add the ram and the mobo prices the cpu discount/price is a wash...
plus, to me intel indeed did an improvement on their uarch but again they need to lower that power envelope because hitting thermal throlling on stock on high end AiOs is unacceptable!!!!! thats why intel CANT lower their nm too much as they want and require power to run at full force that means lower nm more heat because of die density same as amd but intel would be worst in that department lol.. Their cpus NEVER run on stock TDP since sandy bridge era in any benchmark out there they were over TDP because of motherboards ""MCE""..


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> i give it 2-3iterations of cpus to see better ram kits.. this is the same situation what happen on devils vs skylake no incentive to upgrade... ddr3 was still raging on ddr4 mediocre kits.. specially those 2400-2800 ddr3 kits with low timings.... plus also by then pciex6 would be rolling out.
> the price is nice on the cpu aint going to lie specially vs what intel prices the last 2 cpus but when you add the ram and the mobo prices is a wash...
> plus, to me which is a improvement on their uarch they need to lower that power envelope 10nm because hitting thermal throlling on stock on high end AiOs is unacceptable thats why intel CANT lower their nm too much as they want and require power.. Their cpus NEVER run on stock TDP since sandy brige era..


Always will be new stuff by then too. Who knows what intel internally was thinking when doing this.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Section31 said:


> Always will be new stuff by then too. Who knows what intel internally was thinking when doing this.


well they change uarch which is out of skylake to begin which is a nice start lol. still need to lower that power envelope... what they going to do when amd start doing the core race??? how they golng to put 32/64 +128?? etc and keep the power in check as this is a power hungry chip... amd infinity fabric and their L3cache have alot of advantages.. they aint far back if they manage to get the jump from 3th to 5th like they did and they been holding a line for now a yr we dont know what amd have at hand in their next line up.


----------



## Shawnb99

zGunBLADEz said:


> well they change uarch which is out of skylake to begin which is a nice start lol. still need to lower that power envelope... what they going to do when amd start doing the core race??? how they golng to put 32/64 +128?? etc and keep the power in check as this is a power hungry chip... amd infinity fabric and their L3cache have alot of advantages.. they aint far back if they manage to get the jump from 3th to 5th like they did and they been holding a line for now a yr we dont know what amd have at hand in their next line up.


Home LN2 setup for everyone!


----------



## Section31

zGunBLADEz said:


> well they change uarch which is out of skylake to begin which is a nice start lol. still need to lower that power envelope... what they going to do when amd start doing the core race??? how they golng to put 32/64 +128?? etc and keep the power in check as this is a power hungry chip... amd infinity fabric and their L3cache have alot of advantages.. they aint far back if they manage to get the jump from 3th to 5th like they did and they been holding a line for now a yr we dont know what amd have at hand in their next line up.


Interesting future ahead. This is what keeps us going in the hobby to some extent too.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Section31 said:


> Interesting future ahead. This is what keeps us going in the hobby to some extent too.


pretty much the "old same old" but yeah


----------



## Keith Myers

Section31 said:


> Always will be new stuff by then too. Who knows what intel internally was thinking when doing this.


They had to . . . . . as well as AMD because of ARM and Apple. Those architectures put the traditional x86/64 architectures on notice. The future is many small cores in the datacenter for HPC and power saving.


----------



## Section31

on optimus front, i am eager for your full lineup of fittings. I am literally done with bitspower. Paint chipping inside the 90 rotary after two months of light usage. Ekwb satin titanium are fine, swapped out the remaining bp 90 rotary for ekwb torque Going to throw out the bp 90 rotary


----------



## D-EJ915

Shawnb99 said:


> Home LN2 setup for everyone!


Hey if Kingpin can make that automatic ln2 roboclocker thing more convenient lol.


----------



## Section31

Keith Myers said:


> They had to . . . . . as well as AMD because of ARM and Apple. Those architectures put the traditional x86/64 architectures on notice. The future is many small cores in the datacenter for HPC and power saving.


Future is interesting. For my future home, i am looking into whole networking side (can update easier), newer style home automation and maybe one of those 3-4 users (through vm on one super computer).


----------



## dng25

Section31 said:


> Future is interesting. For my future home, i am looking into whole networking side (can update easier), newer style home automation and maybe one of those 3-4 users (through vm on one super computer).


I think linus from ltt has that setup at his old house.

Edit:


----------



## Section31

dng25 said:


> I think linus from ltt has that setup at his old house.
> 
> Edit:


I saw those. An idea. Might be better solution that reselling hardware at big losses.


----------



## dng25

__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1457079906911670273 delayed again


----------



## Section31

Waiting for the ram and optimus ceratoke coming but ended up doing some work on the tubing etc. This little tool really helped on tubing


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Lol Optimus really playing around with customers

Delay after delay after delay,I wonder how long you guys will accept this? You payed $600+ to be made fools by optimus,the strix block was horrendous regarding their bs and excuses but this is a whole new level! Even the biggest ass lickers and fan boys are probably by now boiling inside…see you again in a month with the what now 5-6th delay and “It’ll be ready by next week”


----------



## chibi

^ LOL, I don't care if you're trolling or not, but every time I see your username and that profile pic I always get a good laugh, haha.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> the strix block was horrendous


But was it really?


----------



## tbrown7552

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Delay after delay after delay,I wonder how long you guys will accept this?


I put in an order knowing the full contents of this thread and that i might get a block by the end of the year. Once its beyond that is when i would then start to consider it unacceptable.



ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> You payed $600+ to be made fools by optimus


How did optimus make a fool out of me?



ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> the strix block was horrendous regarding their bs and excuses but this is a whole new level!


How was it horrendous? Best performing block on the market last i checked...............................



ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Even the biggest ass lickers and fan boys are probably by now boiling inside…see you again in a month with the what now 5-6th delay and “It’ll be ready by next week”


Do you even have a Kingpin? Did you order this block?


----------



## Shawnb99

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Delay after delay after delay,I wonder how long you guys will accept this?


Not like a pandemic has delayed everything and everyone is dealing with it. Do you troll the Heatkiller thread as well about the FTW that isn't even out yet?

But yeah "this time" it's a whole new level


----------



## dng25

Shawnb99 said:


> Not like a pandemic has delayed everything and everyone is dealing with it. Do you troll the Heatkiller thread as well about the FTW that isn't even out yet?
> 
> But yeah "this time" it's a whole new level


Meh give them a pass. Supplies did **** them for a few weeks. I have a laundry list of things I ordered months ago and it's a slow race to see who's take the longest.


----------



## acoustic

Shawnb99 said:


> Not like a pandemic has delayed everything and everyone is dealing with it. Do you troll the Heatkiller thread as well about the FTW that isn't even out yet?
> 
> But yeah "this time" it's a whole new level


Heatkiller situation is not even remotely comparable, but I know you know that.

No point in coming in this thread to berate/talk down on people. I hope y'all get your products, and God bless because you all have WAY more patience then I do lol.


----------



## Section31

tbrown7552 said:


> I put in an order knowing the full contents of this thread and that i might get a block by the end of the year. Once its beyond that is when i would then start to consider it unacceptable.
> 
> 
> How did optimus make a fool out of me?
> 
> 
> How was it horrendous? Best performing block on the market last i checked...............................
> 
> 
> Do you even have a Kingpin? Did you order this block?


If you ever talk with him, you realize just to let it rest. Just let him say what he wants to say, no need to reply. He has his own valid view points which people won’t necessarily agree with.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

0451 said:


> But was it really?


Funny how you left the rest out I said horrendous regarding delays but ok next time add everything or piss off





tbrown7552 said:


> I put in an order knowing the full contents of this thread and that i might get a block by the end of the year. Once its beyond that is when i would then start to consider it unacceptable.
> 
> 
> How did optimus make a fool out of me?
> 
> 
> How was it horrendous? Best performing block on the market last i checked...............................
> 
> 
> Do you even have a Kingpin? Did you order this block?



If you're ok waiting till next year by all means it's your choice and money! Let them milk the covid excuse,first they apparently had everything ready and now suddenly it's not somehow perfect so it'll be delayed to who nows when?! They literally made a fool out of you all by lying saying they had the blocks ready just to make you guys calm down when infact they probably are way behind everything and never intended to ship it out earlier then end of this or beginning of next year!
Why the **** would you make all the orders before you checked and made sure 5000x it's perfect,so what they ordered all your blocks and suddenly when they started assembling them they found out it's not perfect? hahaha are you ****ing stupid or what kid to believe that utter bs from optimus???
All of you fan boys are slowly but surely running out of excuses for Optimus,lets see what it's going to be next time? 


"How was it horrendous? Best performing block on the market last i checked..............................."


To this idiotic statement of yours or better said reply next time pigeon brain IQ read it properly let it sink in that I was talking about the delays and excuses before you write this stupid bs.I never said their products are bad but guess we found the ass licking fan boy


"the strix block was horrendous regarding their bs and excuses but this is a whole new level" what I wrote now go back and reread pigeon brain that I was mentioning the whole time the excuses and delays from Optimus and I think I should add the 50x ................................................................................................................... must be the waiting and optimus bs that melted some of your braincells!


----------



## Shawnb99

Trolls really are jealous bitter little things.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Shawnb99 said:


> Not like a pandemic has delayed everything and everyone is dealing with it. Do you troll the Heatkiller thread as well about the FTW that isn't even out yet?
> 
> But yeah "this time" it's a whole new level


Hmmm last time I checked optimus took what now 5 months in advance all your money and all I see is bs excuses one after the other!
Heatkiller or any other supplier doesn't let you order to then start delaying not now by weeks it's months but you do you shawnboy...I'll be back in a month or two lets see what you'll find for a excuse for them funny how they made the blocks to suddenly realize they aren't perfect somehow like come the **** on man...you aren't 5 years old to believe that crap or by the way you act it could be that you are.


----------



## Shawnb99

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Hmmm last time I checked optimus took what now 5 months in advance all your money and all I see is bs excuses one after the other!
> Heatkiller or any other supplier doesn't let you order to then start delaying not now by weeks it's months but you do you shawnboy...I'll be back in a month or two lets see what you'll find for a excuse for them funny how they made the blocks to suddenly realize they aren't perfect somehow like come the **** on man...you aren't 5 years old to believe that crap or by the way you act it could be that you are.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Shawnb99 said:


> Trolls really are jealous bitter little things.



Why would I be jealous when I have my strix block running already 2 months....but I know when you have nothing to say slap some random bs on here now go email optimus and ***** arround how they didnt respond 3 weeks like always


----------



## Shawnb99

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Why would I be jealous when I have my strix block running already 2 months....but I know when you have nothing to say slap some random bs on here now go email optimus and *** arround how they didnt respond 3 weeks like always


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Shawnb99 said:


>


When the cake is talking (me) the crumbs (you) have pause!


----------



## Shawnb99

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> When the cake is talking (me) the crumbs (you) have pause!


Thanks for translating. I always wondered what they were saying


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Shawnb99 said:


> Thanks for translating. I always wondered what they were saying


Lame comeback shawn normally you’re a lot spicier in your replies but all the waiting must’ve made you tired ehhhhh 😂


----------



## Shawnb99

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Lame comeback shawn normally you’re a lot spicier in your replies but all the waiting must’ve made you tired ehhhhh 😂


Not worth the effort. I can only engage with children for so long.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Not worth the effort. I can only engage with children for so long.


Guess the entertainment does spices things up here.


----------



## LiquidHaus

You've seen the tweets. There are actual photos of the block. It's coming soon. If it was still a render at this point, yeah I'd be worried. But they're making progress. Let 'em do their thing. I've had soo many people hounding me for 120mm radiator stands lately. Unfortunately I'm at the mercy of the machine shop since I have to outsource everything. It's one of the reasons why Optimus is trying to nail everything down in-house. There's always gonna be delays at this point. And now with the holiday season starting up, it'll be pretty bad/annoying. It's just how it is.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> You've seen the tweets. There are actual photos of the block. It's coming soon. If it was still a render at this point, yeah I'd be worried. But they're making progress. Let 'em do their thing. I've had soo many people hounding me for 120mm radiator stands lately. Unfortunately I'm at the mercy of the machine shop since I have to outsource everything. It's one of the reasons why Optimus is trying to nail everything down in-house. There's always gonna be delays at this point. And now with the holiday season starting up, it'll be pretty bad/annoying. It's just how it is.


What is your next project by chance.


----------



## Shawnb99

Only one complaining is a troll who's not even waiting for a block. Feel real sorry for someone that there life is so pitiful they have to come onto online forums to **** all over people that are waiting for something they have no stake in. Must be such a sad and empty life.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Section31 said:


> What is your next project by chance.


Well now that this build is done for Intel, I've got a few others in the pipeline. 










CES builds mainly, but I'm gonna be working on streaming some of my PC builds moving forward. After the Intel Creator Challenge, I had discovered how many people enjoyed watching me teach the ins and outs of PC building. We topped 45k people watching the stream at one point, and the production crew said I had the best response from the audience, so that was cool lol


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Well now that this build is done for Intel, I've got a few others in the pipeline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CES builds mainly, but I'm gonna be working on streaming some of my PC builds moving forward. After the Intel Creator Challenge, I had discovered how many people enjoyed watching me teach the ins and outs of PC building. We topped 45k people watching the stream at one point, and the production crew said I had the best response from the audience, so that was cool lol


Will definitely watch those.


----------



## asdf893

dng25 said:


> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1457079906911670273 delayed again


2 months out, id say


----------



## acoustic

asdf893 said:


> 2 months out, id say


I just don't understand why they ever said they were going to be shipping blocks out "next week" at beginning of October iirc, and yet they are tweeting in November that they are still working on fitment. Was there just a major miscommunication between the PR/service team and the engineering/building department? How could they be so out-of-sync?


----------



## asdf893

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Lol Optimus really playing around with customers
> 
> Delay after delay after delay,I wonder how long you guys will accept this? You payed $600+ to be made fools by optimus,the strix block was horrendous regarding their bs and excuses but this is a whole new level! Even the biggest ass lickers and fan boys are probably by now boiling inside…see you again in a month with the what now 5-6th delay and “It’ll be ready by next week”


I cancelled 2 of my 3 KPE blocks.


----------



## asdf893

Shawnb99 said:


> Not like a pandemic has delayed everything and everyone is dealing with it. Do you troll the Heatkiller thread as well about the FTW that isn't even out yet?
> 
> But yeah "this time" it's a whole new level


what's the latest on their FTW3 block? Is it still happening?


----------



## asdf893

acoustic said:


> I just don't understand why they ever said they were going to be shipping blocks out "next week" at beginning of October iirc, and yet they are tweeting in November that they are still working on fitment. Was there just a major miscommunication between the PR/service team and the engineering/building department? How could they be so out-of-sync?


I dunno, but this is classic Optimus. They make stupid promises, don't keep them, then don't apologize or change their ways. Sad reality is they have among the best products so they can keep playing stupid marketing/PR games like this and get away with it. And then die-hard fanboys here tell you to assume they're lying to you and not expect your product by Optimus' timeline. lol


----------



## geriatricpollywog

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Funny how you left the rest out I said horrendous regarding delays but ok next time add everything or piss off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're ok waiting till next year by all means it's your choice and money! Let them milk the covid excuse,first they apparently had everything ready and now suddenly it's not somehow perfect so it'll be delayed to who nows when?! They literally made a fool out of you all by lying saying they had the blocks ready just to make you guys calm down when infact they probably are way behind everything and never intended to ship it out earlier then end of this or beginning of next year!
> Why the **** would you make all the orders before you checked and made sure 5000x it's perfect,so what they ordered all your blocks and suddenly when they started assembling them they found out it's not perfect? hahaha are you ****ing stupid or what kid to believe that utter bs from optimus???
> All of you fan boys are slowly but surely running out of excuses for Optimus,lets see what it's going to be next time?
> 
> 
> "How was it horrendous? Best performing block on the market last i checked..............................."
> 
> 
> To this idiotic statement of yours or better said reply next time pigeon brain IQ read it properly let it sink in that I was talking about the delays and excuses before you write this stupid bs.I never said their products are bad but guess we found the ass licking fan boy
> 
> 
> "the strix block was horrendous regarding their bs and excuses but this is a whole new level" what I wrote now go back and reread pigeon brain that I was mentioning the whole time the excuses and delays from Optimus and I think I should add the 50x ................................................................................................................... must be the waiting and optimus bs that melted some of your braincells!


I filtered out all the bs about delays because that’s nothing new. You said the Strix block was horrendous and I want to know why it’s horrendous.


----------



## asdf893

0451 said:


> I filtered out all the bs about delays because that’s nothing new. You said the Strix block was horrendous and I want to know why it’s horrendous.


also curious. maybe ugly?


----------



## iamjanco

I actually interpreted the original use of "horrendous" as descriptive of the purchasing experience (e.g., wait times, delays, run of excuses, etc.) Strix block buyers apparently experienced way back when; though I could see how someone might conflate use of that descriptive term with something beyond the purchasing experience itself.


----------



## Section31

For those interested in how ceratoke white looks, i am getting my hands on replacement ftw3 midplate


----------



## Section31

Just saw this on my discord. I would love to complain but what i can do. Lose out on 500usd purchase i have been waiting for one year if i refuse to pay it.

Shipping if 40usd will endup as 100usd lol.

@everyone
Important update for E7-V2 shipping

First some good news!

With batch 1 and batch 2, *20%* of the orders have been shipped 🎉 (and now Exclusive is working on batch 3 shipping)
Instead of all black first, Exclusive shifts the shipping order to whatever is available to ship first (so your order number and color does not matter too much in terms of shipping order).
_(For first two batches, there are fair amount of white and blue units shipped as well)_

And now here is something we didn't expect to happen but unfortunately we have to announce:

We change to use *Fedex* for batch 2 (and maybe following batches) in terms of shorter waiting time and slightly cheaper fair
*Additional shipping needed for the E7-V2 GB*
 - due to currency exchange rate dropping from ~6.8 (during GB) to ~6.4 (now) for USD to RMB (exclusive's funds have been frozen in PayPal for the whole time, and he could not get the money out until the GB orders are fulfilled)
- as well as increasing international shipping rate (it's literarily changing everyday and increase for the past few days)
- we have to charge additional shipping for your order (batch 1/2 included). If we don't do so, that's tens of thousands dollars lost just on the shipping for Exclusive <:crying:716136065009975302>

We will *invoice each individual customer for their corresponding additional shipping fee* (expect to be $15-$40 depends on country) from our Shopify Store.
Please pay it in a timely manner, and don’t be afraid to reply back the invoice/email if you have questions!


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Shawnb99 said:


> Only one complaining is a troll who's not even waiting for a block. Feel real sorry for someone that there life is so pitiful they have to come onto online forums to **** all over people that are waiting for something they have no stake in. Must be such a sad and empty life.


Yep Shawn,the generic overused bs reply that we see 10000 times per day how we all are jealous,mad,sad,desperate etc etc…

Must be also very sad daily updating and seeing how your beloved block is in “by next week” mode for the last 5 months.
Go email optimus your feelings and then come back here crying like you always do how they never reply.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

iamjanco said:


> I actually interpreted the original use of "horrendous" as descriptive of the purchasing experience (e.g., wait times, delays, run of excuses, etc.) Strix block buyers apparently experienced way back when; though I could see how someone might conflate use of that descriptive term with something beyond the purchasing experience itself.


If I wrote “delay after delay after delay” I assume that you’re smart enough to interpret it as talking about the delays and knowing about what happened with the Strix blocks?! Just a little less bs’ing from optimus but still bad….but I understand them,they’re innerly frustrated and sad so it‘s like a fog layer over their brains. It’ll clear one sunny warm June 2022 day when they hold their beloved Optimus KPE blocks. Patience will pay off for them


Also you’re one of the smarter guys here so you interpreted it property…


----------



## geriatricpollywog

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> If I wrote “delay after delay after delay” I assume that you’re smart enough to interpret it as talking about the delays and knowing about what happened with the Strix blocks?! Just a little less bs’ing from optimus but still bad….but I understand them,they’re innerly frustrated and sad so it‘s like a fog layer over their brains. It’ll clear one sunny warm June 2022 day when they hold their beloved Optimus KPE blocks. Patience will pay off for them
> 
> 
> Also you’re one of the smarter guys here so you interpreted it property…


So your Strix block is not horrendous? That’s good news.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> it’s the best block!
> 
> The block is BEAUTIFUL,my temps are ridiculously good
> 
> Here is my all Optimus build,it’s beautiful and the quality is 1000% perfect
> 
> 
> View attachment 2531440
> 
> View attachment 2531442
> 
> View attachment 2531441


I’m glad you’re happy with it! Nice photography.


----------



## criskoe

I want to flush my rads real good with my tap for a while. To those that have done that before. Can you suggest a adapter that can screw into a faucet that uses a normal male screw aerator? Im pretty sure my aerator is a male 13/16. Id like to be able to hook up a long 5/8s soft tube.

Any suggestions guys?


----------



## asdf893

criskoe said:


> I want to flush my rads real good with my tap for a while. To those that have done that before. Can you suggest a adapter that can screw into a faucet that uses a normal male screw aerator? Im pretty sure my aerator is a male 13/16. Id like to be able to hook up a long 5/8s soft tube.
> 
> Any suggestions guys?


please report back, I'd like to do the same thing but haven't looked up any solutions yet


----------



## acoustic

criskoe said:


> I want to flush my rads real good with my tap for a while. To those that have done that before. Can you suggest a adapter that can screw into a faucet that uses a normal male screw aerator? Im pretty sure my aerator is a male 13/16. Id like to be able to hook up a long 5/8s soft tube.
> 
> Any suggestions guys?


I wish I could do that, but being on a well water system with tap water that has a lot of iron, I would destroy rads with my tap LOL


----------



## criskoe

asdf893 said:


> please report back, I'd like to do the same thing but haven't looked up any solutions yet





acoustic said:


> I wish I could do that, but being on a well water system with tap water that has a lot of iron, I would destroy rads with my tap LOL


Well I wanted to flush with some mayhems and then follow with hot tap water for a while and then Ill flush it with distilled and a spare pump/res at the end to get all the tap water out and remove any impurities the tap water might have left. Thats my plan.

Anyways I ended up buying a whole faucet adapter kit. LOL. Comes with 11 different metal ones and 5 plastic ones and has every different size thread adapters. Kind of a waste but I'm not totally sure what size I need. Im hoping at least one of them work.

I also got a standard 3/4 hose to 3/8 barb adapter to attach some normal soft tubing to one of these adapters.. I think this should all work. I guess Ill see. LOL...



















https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08K2RT9V5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1





https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B006PKMU0W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## tbrown7552

^ 

Nothing beats the pressure, flow, and heat from a faucet. Works excellent! I usually use the sink first then run mayhems blitz.
I need to pickup a faucet adapter kit as ive just been using a hose end to barb and have to pull the hot water of the back of my washer currently.


----------



## criskoe

tbrown7552 said:


> ^
> 
> Nothing beats the pressure, flow, and heat from a faucet. Works excellent! I usually use the sink first then run mayhems blitz.
> I need to pickup a faucet adapter kit as ive just been using a hose end to barb and have to pull the hot water of the back of my washer currently.


Yeah im looking to get something to use at my island counter kitchen sink. Nice big surface to lay everything out and pump it right back into the sink.. Im pretty sure what I got is going to work perfectly.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

i dont know i like my optimus equipment XD
had 2x sig v2 and a foundation amd/intel brackets 0 issues..
i mean if we fighting about a "niche block for a niche gpu" like the king pin well the jokes on you to be honest...

I did not wait for the 6800xt reference optimus merch tho lol..
that occool one does the job pretty good... so good i have seen her @ 20c fully loaded  specially when she is underclocked and running at less than 200watts triggering the old geezer XD?? lol oh my oh my lol
The 5900x still doing his business XD












I also finished my MoRa 3 did some upgrades to it.. Just bcuz shes portable i still use it, but the phobya 1260/1080 versions are way way better than that MoRa3....
need to change the bearings and oil the big fan and some kink coils i order for hookah pipes for the EKWB pipe as they kink .. EKWB ZMT indeed does kink lol




Spoiler



The FPS version ARGB fans










the 2500CFM pull or push monster in the other side.. PWN controller can revert polarity on the fly 











Next one is to redo my Phobya 1260 have some upgrades for her as well. Including 9x140 Lian Li uni fans


----------



## HyperMatrix

You guys need to relax.


yes the delays from Optimus are unacceptable.
yes they keep making promises that they can’t deliver on
yes they have horrible response times/rates for customer service.
yes it’s been nearly half a year since preorders for the KP block and yes despite the “shipping soon” statement, based on their record, it may not ship out this year at all.

But they do have the best blocks out there. And in the case of the Kingpin blocks….there are no alternatives. I wish there was. I refuse to pay $300 USD to EVGA for their low-midgrade block that has godawful performance and doesn’t even come with a backplate. So while I’m very unhappy with the situation with Optimus right now, what are my options? I have none. No one else is making them. And even the garbage EVGA block is hard to get (though I wouldn’t buy it anyway. Rather keep using AIO).

So I don’t see the point in attacking people who are waiting for a good block because you couldn’t wait for yours. None of us are happy with the delays. But none of us have any good alternatives. I can be mad and try to make a statement by canceling my order. But then I won’t get the block I’ve already waited so long for. And they’ll sell the block to someone else since currently demand greatly exceeds supply. So I wouldn’t be hurting them either.

It’s fair to say that Optimus is a horrible company. Not just because delays happen in the supply chain because of the worldwide situation around “Covid” but because they keep over promising to a point where it could be considered a lie. They keep stringing people along with fake updates that never materialize. And they often don’t respond to customer emails. I had a friend I recommended the Optimus Signature V2 block to. He ordered it and an FTW3 block. He’s sent multiple emails for over a week now trying to cancel his cpu block order and they haven’t responded.

So it’s fair to attack Optimus. It’s good to let people know about their practices, constant delays, potential lies, and lack of customer service. But it’s not good to attack us who are still choosing to wait for blocks to arrive. And it’s not good to spam every page with attacks against them.

Make your point. Say what you have to say about Optimus. And then relax and get on with your life.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> You guys need to relax.
> 
> 
> yes the delays from Optimus are unacceptable.
> yes they keep making promises that they can’t deliver on
> yes they have horrible response times/rates for customer service.
> yes it’s been nearly half a year since preorders for the KP block and yes despite the “shipping soon” statement, based on their record, it may not ship out this year at all.
> 
> But they do have the best blocks out there. And in the case of the Kingpin blocks….there are no alternatives. I wish there was. I refuse to pay $300 USD to EVGA for their low-midgrade block that has godawful performance and doesn’t even come with a backplate. So while I’m very unhappy with the situation with Optimus right now, what are my options? I have none. No one else is making them. And even the garbage EVGA block is hard to get (though I wouldn’t buy it anyway. Rather keep using AIO).
> 
> So I don’t see the point in attacking people who are waiting for a good block because you couldn’t wait for yours. None of us are happy with the delays. But none of us have any good alternatives. I can be mad and try to make a statement by canceling my order. But then I won’t get the block I’ve already waited so long for. And they’ll sell the block to someone else since currently demand greatly exceeds supply. So I wouldn’t be hurting them either.
> 
> It’s fair to say that Optimus is a horrible company. Not just because delays happen in the supply chain because of the worldwide situation around “Covid” but because they keep over promising to a point where it could be considered a lie. They keep stringing people along with fake updates that never materialize. And they often don’t respond to customer emails. I had a friend I recommended the Optimus Signature V2 block to. He ordered it and an FTW3 block. He’s sent multiple emails for over a week now trying to cancel his cpu block order and they haven’t responded.
> 
> So it’s fair to attack Optimus. It’s good to let people know about their practices, constant delays, potential lies, and lack of customer service. But it’s not good to attack us who are still choosing to wait for blocks to arrive. And it’s not good to spam every page with attacks against them.
> 
> Make your point. Say what you have to say about Optimus. And then relax and get on with your life.


I’ve been using the Hydrocopper KP block since May and the user experience has been godawful because it’s not an Optimus block. Therefore, it’s low-midrange despite having perfect die contact and fit/finish. Having a Kingpin and a Hydrocopper block is like having one foot in the bank and the other in the dumpster. Rear memory temperature is approaching 50C which is way too hot for a human to bear, let alone a memory chip which despite their 125c tj max must be cooled to ambient or it will go up in smoke. I totally regret not sending a $600 deposit to Optimus and gaming on the AIO for the past 6 months. Here is an example of the godawful performance paured with a MO-RA. If you guys can get just 1 month of gaming on thr Optimus block before the 4090 comes out, it will be totally worth having used an AIO for 2 years.









I scored 16 195 in Port Royal


Intel Core i9-11900K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}




www.3dmark.com


----------



## acoustic

0451 said:


> I’ve been using the Hydrocopper KP block since May and the user experience has been godawful because it’s not an Optimus block and therefore it’s low-midrange. Having a Kingpin and a Hydrocopper block is like having one foot in the bank and the other in the dumpster. Rear memory temperature is approaching 50C which is way too hot for a human to bear, let alone a memory chip which despite their 125c tj max must be cooled to ambient or it will go up in smoke. I totally regret not sending a $600 deposit to Optimus and gaming on the AIO for the past 6 months. Here is an example of the godawful performance paured with a MO-RA. If you guys can get just 1 month of gaming on thr Optimus block before the 4090 comes out, it will be totally worth having used an AIO for 2 years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I scored 16 195 in Port Royal
> 
> 
> Intel Core i9-11900K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.3dmark.com


At first I thought this was serious, but then that sarcasm killed me lmao


----------



## zGunBLADEz

ermm the memory aint 125c
as a matter of fact micron didnt have no spec sheet for it "gddr6x" just GDDR6 until all the drama which they fixed at 105c


im just wondering tho what kind of cooling they going to use for those 600-700w rumored next gen gpus im very anxious to see the meltdowns XD


----------



## HyperMatrix

0451 said:


> I’ve been using the Hydrocopper KP block since May and the user experience has been godawful because it’s not an Optimus block. Therefore, it’s low-midrange despite having perfect die contact and fit/finish. Having a Kingpin and a Hydrocopper block is like having one foot in the bank and the other in the dumpster. Rear memory temperature is approaching 50C which is way too hot for a human to bear, let alone a memory chip which despite their 125c tj max must be cooled to ambient or it will go up in smoke. I totally regret not sending a $600 deposit to Optimus and gaming on the AIO for the past 6 months. Here is an example of the godawful performance paured with a MO-RA. If you guys can get just 1 month of gaming on thr Optimus block before the 4090 comes out, it will be totally worth having used an AIO for 2 years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I scored 16 195 in Port Royal
> 
> 
> Intel Core i9-11900K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.3dmark.com


I was going to agree with all your points until someone pointed out that you may have been sarcastic. I'm getting 2100MHz core clock and +1000MHz on memory for 24/7 gaming on my AIO and was able to run 2190MHz/+1350MHz for a Port Royal run. The overpriced EVGA block wouldn't have given me sufficient cooling to bump up the clocks, or to somewhat safely run the 1000W bios. Especially since it doesn't come with a backplate that I could mount my ram block to for extra backside cooling. It's really a half-measure block, at more than full block price. If you're happy with it, more power to you. I just wouldn't have gained anything from it personally.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> I was going to agree with all your points until someone pointed out that you may have been sarcastic. I'm getting 2100MHz core clock and +1000MHz on memory for 24/7 gaming on my AIO and was able to run 2190MHz/+1350MHz for a Port Royal run. The overpriced EVGA block wouldn't have given me sufficient cooling to bump up the clocks, or to somewhat safely run the 1000W bios. Especially since it doesn't come with a backplate that I could mount my ram block to for extra backside cooling. It's really a half-measure block, at more than full block price. If you're happy with it, more power to you. I just wouldn't have gained anything from it personally.


I look forward to comparing notes when you receive your block. I am expecting nothing short of negative deltas and 16200+ in Port Royal to beat the Hydrocopper.


----------



## HyperMatrix

0451 said:


> I look forward to comparing notes when you receive your block. I am expecting nothing short of negative deltas and 16200+ in Port Royal to beat the Hydrocopper.


Keep in mind the reason I hated the HC block is that I bought an FTW3 3090 HC, planning to just settle on 2100MHz and sell the Kingpin, only to realize it was only a few degrees cooler than my Kingpin AIO was running. And by that I mean that I couldn't keep temps under 40C with it. So I sold it and decided that since the AIO is actually quite capable compared to the HC block, it's good enough to use without handicapping myself until the optimus block arrived. If I weren't able to game 24/7 at 2100MHz/+1000MHz with the AIO, then the EVGA block would have looked better. But alas...sticking 3x Delta 21W fans on the AIO rad provided similar results.


----------



## Section31




----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> Keep in mind the reason I hated the HC block is that I bought an FTW3 3090 HC, planning to just settle on 2100MHz and sell the Kingpin, only to realize it was only a few degrees cooler than my Kingpin AIO was running. And by that I mean that I couldn't keep temps under 40C with it. So I sold it and decided that since the AIO is actually quite capable compared to the HC block, it's good enough to use without handicapping myself until the optimus block arrived. If I weren't able to game 24/7 at 2100MHz/+1000MHz with the AIO, then the EVGA block would have looked better. But alas...sticking 3x Delta 21W fans on the AIO rad provided similar results.


My KP HC block lowered core temps by 10C and backplate memory temps by 20C with just a 280mm radiator shared with the CPU so maybe yours had contact issues.



Section31 said:


> View attachment 2531598
> 
> View attachment 2531600
> 
> View attachment 2531599


Aw sheet! Look forward to thermals.


----------



## asdf893

zGunBLADEz said:


> i dont know i like my optimus equipment XD
> had 2x sig v2 and a foundation amd/intel brackets 0 issues..
> i mean if we fighting about a "niche block for a niche gpu" like the king pin well the jokes on you to be honest...
> 
> I did not wait for the 6800xt reference optimus merch tho lol..
> that occool one does the job pretty good... so good i have seen her @ 20c fully loaded  specially when she is underclocked and running at less than 200watts triggering the old geezer XD?? lol oh my oh my lol
> The 5900x still doing his business XD
> 
> View attachment 2531550
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also finished my MoRa 3 did some upgrades to it.. Just bcuz shes portable i still use it, but the phobya 1260/1080 versions are way way better than that MoRa3....
> need to change the bearings and oil the big fan and some kink coils i order for hookah pipes for the EKWB pipe as they kink .. EKWB ZMT indeed does kink lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> The FPS version ARGB fans
> 
> View attachment 2531551
> 
> 
> the 2500CFM pull or push monster in the other side.. PWN controller can revert polarity on the fly
> View attachment 2531553
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next one is to redo my Phobya 1260 have some upgrades for her as well. Including 9x140 Lian Li uni fans


tell us more about your GPU that is 20C at full load. How is that even possible lol


----------



## chibi

@Section31 nice bro, still waiting on mine. The matte black sig v2 looks like the coating is not as durable compared to the original finish. Can you confirm those specs are just dirt? Or is the cerakote finish chipped?


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> @Section31 nice bro, still waiting on mine. The matte black sig v2 looks like the coating is not as durable compared to the original finish. Can you confirm those specs are just dirt? Or is the cerakote finish chipped?
> 
> View attachment 2531612


They are dirt.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

asdf893 said:


> tell us more about your GPU that is 20C at full load. How is that even possible lol


very easy XD when you water Dt is at 10C just using the ambient air from Chicago... that day if i recollect it was just around 50F lol we get colder 
Anything else to be laughing about? do i have to remind you what www forum we at ? between the cpu and gpu is not even 350avg (cpu+gpu) 400watts tops the whole system to be honest lol... i aint using intel and nvidia on that rig lol the 3090 would be a stock sucking more watts than my whole 5900x+6800xt system together...

Btw, im not even using this puppy down there


Spoiler


----------



## D-EJ915

That black sig v2 is finally looking like a high quality part and not a cheapo knockoff like the original finish lol.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

zGunBLADEz said:


> very easy XD when you water Dt is at 10C just using the ambient air from Chicago... that day if i recollect it was just around 50F lol we get colder
> Anything else to be laughing about? do i have to remind you what www forum we at ? between the cpu and gpu is not even 350avg (cpu+gpu) 400watts tops the whole system to be honest lol... i aint using intel and nvidia on that rig lol the 3090 would be a stock sucking more watts than my whole 5900x+6800xt system together...
> 
> Btw, im not even using this puppy down there
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2531618


No 3090? Hm. Quaint.


----------



## asdf893

0451 said:


> No 3090? Hm. Quaint.


LOL


----------



## Biggu

D-EJ915 said:


> That black sig v2 is finally looking like a high quality part and not a cheapo knockoff like the original finish lol.


Honestly I disagree, I thought the original finish looked way more quality and its a shame we cant get that anymore IMO.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

0451 said:


> No 3090? Hm.* Quaint.*


if i thought it was a hot piece of overpriced poo poo before scalpers and miners what you think i think now?


----------



## Section31

anyone know what size the optimus coldplate screws are.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> anyone know what size the optimus coldplate screws are.


For the GPU block? If so its a torx T6. Dont try to use anything else. You will strip them easy. I found out the hard way. They actually make those screws inhouse.


----------



## criskoe

Oh yeah and make sure you get a good quality T6 torx. I snapped the head off two ifixit ones super easy trying to tighten the ***** down. Go with a wera or wiha. Much much better. Was able to actually get it tight.


----------



## acoustic

criskoe said:


> Oh yeah and make sure you get a good quality T6 torx. I snapped the head off two ifixit ones super easy trying to tighten the *** down. Go with a wera or wiha. Much much better. Was able to actually get it tight.


god damn how much torque you throwing on it? LOL


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> For the GPU block? If so its a torx T6. Dont try to use anything else. You will strip them easy. I found out the hard way. They actually make those screws inhouse.












Also do you know the diameter and length size of the optimus screws itself. I need an in between size screw.

The cpu and gpu coldplate share the same thread size.


----------



## criskoe

acoustic said:


> god damn how much torque you throwing on it? LOL


LOL. The one in my ifixit kit was actually a Security T6. So it has that hole in the middle of the bit. I didnt even have to use much pressure at all. Snapped right off. The really really small ifixit bits are really not that good ive found. Cheap metal.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> Also do you know the thread and length size of the optimus screws itself. I need an in between size screw.
> The cpu and gpu coldplate share the same thread size.


Sorry I dont know what the thread pitch is. I just know that the gpu coldplate ones, Optimus makes themselves.


----------



## Section31

Have an Leak Test to do then the part of testing out mobo and basic setup. This RAM will be replaced by better RAM with heatsink whenever i can get my hands on them


----------



## Section31

Got it up and working. Still lot of other find tuning to do.


----------



## LiquidHaus

A few of you guys have asked, so I figured I'd put it in here. EXT Pre-Order is live! Orders ship within 2-3 weeks.


----------



## KedarWolf

LiquidHaus said:


> A few of you guys have asked, so I figured I'd put it in here. EXT Pre-Order is live! Orders ship within 2-3 weeks.


Can you get the QDC's separately and what are the specs of the pump?

Edit: And I see it has a reservoir. Can it be mounted horizontally?

Wait, is it just the radiator stand?


----------



## LiquidHaus

KedarWolf said:


> Can you get the QDC's separately and what are the specs of the pump?
> 
> Edit: And I see it has a reservoir. Can it be mounted horizontally?
> 
> Wait, is it just the radiator stand?


Lol yeah just the radiator stand. The setups are examples of what you could do. I will be selling pre-built setups next year though, too!


----------



## KedarWolf

LiquidHaus said:


> Lol yeah just the radiator stand. The setups are examples of what you could do. I will be selling pre-built setups next year though, too!



Oh nice.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Lol yeah just the radiator stand. The setups are examples of what you could do. I will be selling pre-built setups next year though, too!


You did such an good job on your external rad, i think people would pay for pre-built models


----------



## criskoe

So those adapter things worked out good enough. My faucet isnt designed to use attachments and uses a special oring on the aerator that doesnt work with any of these adapters. I ended up having to use two of the adapters joined together, then attached to the brass 3/8 barb adapter to work. But with enough plumbers tape it works good enough. It dribbles a bit where the adapter attaches to the faucet but its fine. It can handle the tap on full blast and I only plan to use it for a short while at a time.. The tubing fits nicely on the brass adapter tho. The brass adapter is decent.

Those other adapters are really cheap feeling though. Definitely not worth the price for all of them. Much better if you can just find one that fits your faucet instead of having to buy them all like I did... lol... But I can now cycle hot water through the rads then blitz and ph balance the rads after so im happy.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

I wonder when will we get a new promise about kp block. So bored of waiting… seems like it wont ship before new year. Gz optimus.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Huseyinbaykal said:


> I wonder when will we get a new promise about kp block. So bored of waiting… seems like it wont ship before new year. Gz optimus.


Most businesses take a break during December.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

0451 said:


> Most businesses take a break during December.


Most likely I will request a refund when they take a break😂 can get a new cpu and try and make me feel better 😂


----------



## chibi

My new chungus duo has arrived. Despite their small looks, these blocks are abnormally heavy! The competitor blocks feel like paper mache craft in comparison, lol.

The game plan is to swap out the GPU nickel cold plate with copper to match the CPU block. I'll have both CPU and GPU nickel cold plates as hot spares for future considerations. 

Waiting on a Corsair AX1600i PSU as my next upgrade, hopefully will get that later this afternoon if the tracking info is anything to go by.


----------



## asdf893

criskoe said:


> Well I wanted to flush with some mayhems and then follow with hot tap water for a while and then Ill flush it with distilled and a spare pump/res at the end to get all the tap water out and remove any impurities the tap water might have left. Thats my plan.
> 
> Anyways I ended up buying a whole faucet adapter kit. LOL. Comes with 11 different metal ones and 5 plastic ones and has every different size thread adapters. Kind of a waste but I'm not totally sure what size I need. Im hoping at least one of them work.
> 
> I also got a standard 3/4 hose to 3/8 barb adapter to attach some normal soft tubing to one of these adapters.. I think this should all work. I guess Ill see. LOL...
> 
> View attachment 2531498
> 
> View attachment 2531499
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08K2RT9V5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B006PKMU0W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


edit: disregard. I can't find how to delete this.


----------



## asdf893

criskoe said:


> So those adapter things worked out good enough. My faucet isnt designed to use attachments and uses a special oring on the aerator that doesnt work with any of these adapters. I ended up having to use two of the adapters joined together, then attached to the brass 3/8 barb adapter to work. But with enough plumbers tape it works good enough. It dribbles a bit where the adapter attaches to the faucet but its fine. It can handle the tap on full blast and I only plan to use it for a short while at a time.. The tubing fits nicely on the brass adapter tho. The brass adapter is decent.
> 
> Those other adapters are really cheap feeling though. Definitely not worth the price for all of them. Much better if you can just find one that fits your faucet instead of having to buy them all like I did... lol... But I can now cycle hot water through the rads then blitz and ph balance the rads after so im happy.
> View attachment 2532216


which size barb did you get and what size ID hose does it fit? I'm going to order like you did and I have 13mm ID ZMT tubing


----------



## LiquidHaus

chibi said:


> My new chungus duo has arrived.
> _snip_


That thing is BADASS. Fingers crossed KP's ship this next week.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> That thing is BADASS. Fingers crossed KP's ship this next week.


What project will you be using the kp. its looking like i won’t be done my alderlake upgrade till early 2022. Getting ahold of gskill trident z5 kit will be tough.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> What project will you be using the kp. its looking like i won’t be done my alderlake upgrade till early 2022. Getting ahold of gskill trident z5 kit will be tough.


I gave up on DDR5. Cancelled Apex preorder. Placed preorder for top DDR4 board again. Apex costs twice as much. The ram will cost a ton more to get something decent which will still likely only roughly match DDR4. And with rumors of Intel’s new “DLVR” power delivery system for next gen CPUs it means a motherboard swap will be in order. Also seeing people posting 4000MHz+ in Gear 1 on 12900k. Should be interesting. And at least a lot cheaper and less of a headache and ready for a swap for next gen mobos that will support simultaneous PCIe 5 x16 GPU and NVMe.


----------



## criskoe

asdf893 said:


> which size barb did you get and what size ID hose does it fit? I'm going to order like you did and I have 13mm ID ZMT tubing


I personally got a 3/8 barb cause I have a ton spare 3/8 ID soft tubing Laying around for test loops and flushing. And for my rig I use 5/8-3/8 ZMT. 

Are you sure the inner diameter is 13mm? The largest ZMT is 12.5mm ID.
If that’s what you got, you will want a 1/2 inch barb.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I gave up on DDR5. Cancelled Apex preorder. Placed preorder for top DDR4 board again. Apex costs twice as much. The ram will cost a ton more to get something decent which will still likely only roughly match DDR4. And with rumors of Intel’s new “DLVR” power delivery system for next gen CPUs it means a motherboard swap will be in order. Also seeing people posting 4000MHz+ in Gear 1 on 12900k. Should be interesting. And at least a lot cheaper and less of a headache and ready for a swap for next gen mobos that will support simultaneous PCIe 5 x16 GPU and NVMe.


I totally get your viewpoint. Difficult to plan indeed. I went through same thought process like you but decided just to go ahead with it. 

I am going to take rest on these endless upgrades cycles myself for next 2years or so. So meteorlake/lunarlake for cpu. Trying to wrap up some of these projects up by early 2022. Going forward the funds are being reallocated elsewhere plus save up for whole new rig in 2023-2025.

At this point can only see myself doing GPU (has to support 4k120 native though), Keycaps, wd sn or samsung pro 2tb+ gen 5 nvme (if affordable at around 300cad) and Optimus related releases.


----------



## Biggu

HyperMatrix said:


> I gave up on DDR5. Cancelled Apex preorder. Placed preorder for top DDR4 board again. Apex costs twice as much. The ram will cost a ton more to get something decent which will still likely only roughly match DDR4. And with rumors of Intel’s new “DLVR” power delivery system for next gen CPUs it means a motherboard swap will be in order. Also seeing people posting 4000MHz+ in Gear 1 on 12900k. Should be interesting. And at least a lot cheaper and less of a headache and ready for a swap for next gen mobos that will support simultaneous PCIe 5 x16 GPU and NVMe.


I did the same thing, Im kicking myself because I had some corsair dominator in hand at MC and decided to put it back and just wait to see what else pops up. I ended up canceling my Maximus Extreme board too and probably going to return the 12900k. Just dont feel like going through the hassle when im pretty content with my 5950x.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, this Intel cycle seems a bit 'bleeding edge' with no concrete benefits. I think my current system will be fine for another year or so.


----------



## asdf893

criskoe said:


> I personally got a 3/8 barb cause I have a ton spare 3/8 ID soft tubing Laying around for test loops and flushing. And for my rig I use 5/8-3/8 ZMT.
> 
> Are you sure the inner diameter is 13mm? The largest ZMT is 12.5mm ID.
> If that’s what you got, you will want a 1/2 inch barb.


oops my mistake. Yup my ZMT is 3/8 5/8. I'll get the same size barb you did.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> I did the same thing, Im kicking myself because I had some corsair dominator in hand at MC and decided to put it back and just wait to see what else pops up. I ended up canceling my Maximus Extreme board too and probably going to return the 12900k. Just dont feel like going through the hassle when im pretty content with my 5950x.


I think thats the best course in general. Ryzen solution to hybrid is quite interesting too. I’m still figuring out the oc part (lack of).


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Yeah, this Intel cycle seems a bit 'bleeding edge' with no concrete benefits. I think my current system will be fine for another year or so.


Unless you absolutely need the bleeding edge for work related or other personal reasons, its always better to wait it out with current supply chain/pricing issues.

I personally think the time to upgrade is really 2023-2025. Raptorlake/AM5 first gen aren’t going to be worth it imo. That and the hedt market will get interesting too. Lot of stuff to work out. So should be targeting meteorlake/second gen am5 or just hold out for 2024 lunarlake/amd equivalent. I honestly don’t see m.2 gen 5 nvme consumer drives support on mobos till 2023 chipsets.

It just times out well with next gen GPU and etc. Too many things that possibly need updating like psus and optimus may have fully expanded its lineup to include stuff currently in r&d. Also there will be new cases you might want to do full new build in.


----------



## chibi

@JustinThyme - hey buddy, can I pick your brain on a suggested UPS? Just got my AX1600i in and possibly thinking to add a UPS as well. Looking for something pro-consumer grade but not the hardcore rack mounted APC units. What's the best one for this absolute unit of a PSU? Other parts are an overclocked 9900KS and 3080 Ti FTW3, monitor, laptop, modem etc.

Also, is something like this power strip suitable, compared to the APC ones that boasts a bunch of surge protection lingo?








Amazon.com: Opentron OT4126 12-Outlet Heavy Duty Metal Surge Protector Power Strip with Mounting Parts - 4 Feet body 6 Feet Power Cord : Electronics


Buy Opentron OT4126 12-Outlet Heavy Duty Metal Surge Protector Power Strip with Mounting Parts - 4 Feet body 6 Feet Power Cord: Surge Protectors - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> @JustinThyme - hey buddy, can I pick your brain on a suggested UPS? Just got my AX1600i in and possibly thinking to add a UPS as well. Looking for something pro-consumer grade but not the hardcore rack mounted APC units. What's the best one for this absolute unit of a PSU? Other parts are an overclocked 9900KS and 3080 Ti FTW3, monitor, laptop, modem etc.
> 
> Also, is something like this power strip suitable, compared to the APC ones that boasts a bunch of surge protection lingo?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Opentron OT4126 12-Outlet Heavy Duty Metal Surge Protector Power Strip with Mounting Parts - 4 Feet body 6 Feet Power Cord : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy Opentron OT4126 12-Outlet Heavy Duty Metal Surge Protector Power Strip with Mounting Parts - 4 Feet body 6 Feet Power Cord: Surge Protectors - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


I bought one of the cyberpower units for the house networking switches and home automation gear.


----------



## KCDC

@chibi for my ax1600i workstation in sig, I use this one:









PR1500LCD


A mini-tower UPS with line interactive topology, the CyberPower Smart App Sinewave PR1500LCD provides battery backup, power protection (using sine wave output), and surge protection for corporate servers, department servers, storage appliances, network devices, and telecom installations...




www.cyberpowersystems.com





been rock solid for a couple years now, i've seen my power draw hit over 1200 and it hasn't complained yet. My power bill, however...


----------



## asdf893

chibi said:


> @JustinThyme - hey buddy, can I pick your brain on a suggested UPS? Just got my AX1600i in and possibly thinking to add a UPS as well. Looking for something pro-consumer grade but not the hardcore rack mounted APC units. What's the best one for this absolute unit of a PSU? Other parts are an overclocked 9900KS and 3080 Ti FTW3, monitor, laptop, modem etc.
> 
> Also, is something like this power strip suitable, compared to the APC ones that boasts a bunch of surge protection lingo?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Opentron OT4126 12-Outlet Heavy Duty Metal Surge Protector Power Strip with Mounting Parts - 4 Feet body 6 Feet Power Cord : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy Opentron OT4126 12-Outlet Heavy Duty Metal Surge Protector Power Strip with Mounting Parts - 4 Feet body 6 Feet Power Cord: Surge Protectors - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


I've also got an AX1600i and had this cyberpower UPS. Unfortunately I think it died an early death because it couldn't handle the sustained 1000W draw of my PC. And now my sustained draw is1200W. Then I downgraded to just a surge protector and this died in a few months as well. Now I'm going raw-dog nothing between my ax1600i and the plebian apartment building outlet.








Amazon.com: CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/1000W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini Tower : Electronics


Buy CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/1000W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini Tower: Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com












HT1206UC2


The CyberPower Premium Surge Protector HT1206UC2 is ideal for the home, office, or home theater because it is designed to provide maximum protection and convenience to a number of devices where wall receptacles are out of reach. The Premium Surge Protector prevents damaging spikes in energy...




www.cyberpowersystems.com


----------



## Biggu

I also have a Ax1200i and I use the the Cyberpower 1500PFCLCD with no issues. The only thing connected is my PC and monitor so I can shut down in event of power issues. My network rack uses a old SURTA2500VA


----------



## dng25

asdf893 said:


> I've also got an AX1600i and had this cyberpower UPS. Unfortunately I think it died an early death because it couldn't handle the sustained 1000W draw of my PC. And now my sustained draw is1200W. Then I downgraded to just a surge protector and this died in a few months as well. Now I'm going raw-dog nothing between my ax1600i and the plebian apartment building outlet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/1000W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini Tower : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/1000W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini Tower: Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HT1206UC2
> 
> 
> The CyberPower Premium Surge Protector HT1206UC2 is ideal for the home, office, or home theater because it is designed to provide maximum protection and convenience to a number of devices where wall receptacles are out of reach. The Premium Surge Protector prevents damaging spikes in energy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.cyberpowersystems.com


There's no way your pc is killing ups and surge protector left and right. Something is seriously wrong with the power.


----------



## asdf893

dng25 said:


> There's no way your pc is killing ups and surge protector left and right. Something is seriously wrong with the power.


that UPS is rated at 1000W and my PC was using 1000W 24/7. You don't think that's a workload that would kill a consumer grade UPS?


----------



## HyperMatrix

asdf893 said:


> that UPS is rated at 1000W and my PC was using 1000W 24/7. You don't think that's a workload that would kill a consumer grade UPS?


The only UPS that should burn out in a situation like that is one that powers your computer through the battery, while keeping the battery charged. A well built unit that has a bypass that pulls power directly to the PC without going through the battery and wearing it out, while providing filtering and instant backup power response, shouldn't die from normal 1000W usage. That's what it was designed to do. Now if your system kept going above its rated limit, or its rated limit was a ballpark figure (lol) then yes you'd run into problems.

You guys need to keep in mind that the ax1600i already provides filtering. There is no "power stability" benefit to be had for your PC by using a UPS. It's only good for power surges and to keep the system running through short power outages. I've been using 4 of the pure sinewave UPS from Cyberpower for about 6 years now. Only one of them started beeping at me a few months back because the batteries needed to be replaced. But I run one for my PC, one for TV/consoles, one for NAS, and one dedicated to just the router/modem to make sure I have hours and hours of internet connectivity during a power outage.


----------



## teamrushpntball

I sent this into Optimus as well but wondering if anyone here might have any suggestions or thoughts on what my issue may be. 

I finally got around to installing my Optimus Strix 3090 water block last weekend. Since installing I've had intermittent display shutdowns leading to my whole PC shutting down within 10-15 seconds. Checking GPUZ logging after a crash shows the die temp at a max of 50 C and memory temp at a max of 80 C even with the screws loosened a fair bit. 

I have updated my Nvidia drivers to the newest version, updated Windows and updated my bios to the newest revision. I've removed all over clocks on everything. I even under clocked my GPU. I have reseated the GPU block and back plate 3 times now. I have used varying degrees of tightening on the screws. 

The only difference has been the memory and die temperatures. I have reinstalled the original cooler and everything is working again. Any suggestions on what might be wrong? Was worried it was my card but it seems to be fine now that the original cooler is reinstalled.


----------



## Section31

teamrushpntball said:


> I sent this into Optimus as well but wondering if anyone here might have any suggestions or thoughts on what my issue may be.
> 
> I finally got around to installing my Optimus Strix 3090 water block last weekend. Since installing I've had intermittent display shutdowns leading to my whole PC shutting down within 10-15 seconds. Checking GPUZ logging after a crash shows the die temp at a max of 50 C and memory temp at a max of 80 C even with the screws loosened a fair bit.
> 
> I have updated my Nvidia drivers to the newest version, updated Windows and updated my bios to the newest revision. I've removed all over clocks on everything. I even under clocked my GPU. I have reseated the GPU block and back plate 3 times now. I have used varying degrees of tightening on the screws.
> 
> The only difference has been the memory and die temperatures. I have reinstalled the original cooler and everything is working again. Any suggestions on what might be wrong? Was worried it was my card but it seems to be fine now that the original cooler is reinstalled.


You might want to post some pictures. Did you follow the guide on installing the card including the thermal pads? It sounds lot like contact issue from what you are saying. The screws should be very tight.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> The only UPS that should burn out in a situation like that is one that powers your computer through the battery, while keeping the battery charged. A well built unit that has a bypass that pulls power directly to the PC without going through the battery and wearing it out, while providing filtering and instant backup power response, shouldn't die from normal 1000W usage. That's what it was designed to do. Now if your system kept going above its rated limit, or its rated limit was a ballpark figure (lol) then yes you'd run into problems.
> 
> You guys need to keep in mind that the ax1600i already provides filtering. There is no "power stability" benefit to be had for your PC by using a UPS. It's only good for power surges and to keep the system running through short power outages. I've been using 4 of the pure sinewave UPS from Cyberpower for about 6 years now. Only one of them started beeping at me a few months back because the batteries needed to be replaced. But I run one for my PC, one for TV/consoles, one for NAS, and one dedicated to just the router/modem to make sure I have hours and hours of internet connectivity during a power outage.


Power surges suck. Also happens at the worst possible times near the weekends or on the weekends (like car flat tires) where it's difficult to get it fixed immediately. My house just had one recently (lasted about 5 hours) and even when power came back on not everything came back on correctly. The ADT Alarm system couldn't restart and was beeping non-stop. Had to go alarmless for the weekend till ADT could come in on the Monday. Early 2000 Era Home Automation - Super Durable Stuff but these systems all were marketed as future proof lol. Guess what, most of the systems are no longer supported and for ADT, there new alarm systems aren't even as advanced as one that got installed.

Then there's the Crestron system haha, its almost one year and the system that was just suppose to simple job of replacing screen and cpu unit of the crestron plus upgrade and fix the front/rear door system. Guess what, truly problematic lol. The Cameras are impossible to source, the intended voip system for front/back gate can't be installed and the best thing is the installer spent couple months figuring out why the Crestron units won't talk with Lutron Homeworks System. The issue was that there was an switch that suppose to be turned on so it could talk. The front/back door gate solution still not has been solved. There isn't an aftermarket solution that will solve all issues or if there are, they are super expensive (look at 2n) and for voip service (opening doors/talking with individual at gate even when not home), there's an yearly subscription. 

I don't know if its worth investing into the high level of smart homes anymore. Lutron system is pretty good by itself and probably does what you need and worth every penny. Integrating it with other systems is not necessarily worth it.


----------



## JustinThyme

chibi said:


> @JustinThyme - hey buddy, can I pick your brain on a suggested UPS? Just got my AX1600i in and possibly thinking to add a UPS as well. Looking for something pro-consumer grade but not the hardcore rack mounted APC units. What's the best one for this absolute unit of a PSU? Other parts are an overclocked 9900KS and 3080 Ti FTW3, monitor, laptop, modem etc.
> 
> Also, is something like this power strip suitable, compared to the APC ones that boasts a bunch of surge protection lingo?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Opentron OT4126 12-Outlet Heavy Duty Metal Surge Protector Power Strip with Mounting Parts - 4 Feet body 6 Feet Power Cord : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy Opentron OT4126 12-Outlet Heavy Duty Metal Surge Protector Power Strip with Mounting Parts - 4 Feet body 6 Feet Power Cord: Surge Protectors - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


If you want true protection you need an online dual conversion UPS. They aren't at the cheap end though. The surge protection devices only protect you from something such as a lightning strike and are sacrificial lambs. They simply have movs that pop. They do nothing for transients, surges or spikes and neither does a cheap UPS. The budget end UPSs are line interactive so you are getting utility power unless the power goes out of tolerance then its UPS power and not true sinewave, closer to a square wave. The online dual conversion protects you from everything. Input and output are totally isolation. Makes AC into DC then DC back into AC so there is zero switching time and you are always on inverter with a pure sinewave output. How much you need depends on your rig. I originally had a 1600Va but that wasnt enough. When I was really pushing a 10980XE and a pair of 2080Tis I kept hearing a beeping noise and took me awhile to figure out it was my UPS going into overload. 1600Va with a 0.8 power factor gets you 1280W. I upped to a 2200VA with a .9 PF that gets me 1980W.

For what you have a 1600 should do fine. What I would recommended for you is this guy as they have done away with the 1600. This is a 1500 good for 1300 watts. You can go up to the 2200 but it costs a bit more and anything more you cant run from a 20amp outlet. This is if you want true protection from every electrical disturbance known to man. In the UPS world you get what you pay for. What's on the shelf at best buy and the cheap brands like cyberpower and tripplite just dont cut it as they are all line interactive.









APC Smart-UPS On-Line, 1500VA, Tower, 120V, 6x 5-15R NEMA outlets, SmartSlot, Extended runtime, W/O rail kit - SRT1500XLA | APC USA


SRT1500XLA - APC Smart-UPS On-Line, 1500VA, Tower, 120V, 6x 5-15R NEMA outlets, SmartSlot, Extended runtime, W/O rail kit | APC USA




www.apc.com





You but this and you dont need an surge protector so thats a little money saved. Even the cheap surge protectors are garbage. A decent one will run you upwards of $100 or more. This UPS has a good bit of outlets and if that isnt enough a plain old power strip is just fine.

I'm pretty knowledgeable in this field. At least Schneider electric thinks so as I work in platform engineering for the enterprise systems that run up in the 1.6MW range and can be paralleled up to 4 for a total power density of 6.4MW.....Yes thats 6.4 MILLION watts and multiple systems. The large financials, co-location and places like google, Microsoft, Facebook, NSA, Pentagon to name a few all run the large systems. Not uncommon to see one facility with 50MW of UPS power with 50MW of diesel generators behind that. I could write a book on redundancy but the average enterprise site has 4 levels of redundancy in UPS then double that when they have dual corded power supplies in their servers and switches that bumps that up to 8 levels. In other words its a major sh!t storm if they lose power. When they do its normally human intervention that caused it and the facilities manager that was at home in bed when it happened and whoever did it get escorted to HR. While they are in there getting fired all their credentials are being wiped, badges rendered inoperable etc then they are escorted out by security. They dont even get to go back and collect any personal belongings. Some one will box it all up and ship it to their address on file.

As for dual conversion running on battery and burning them out thats not at all how they work. At the input is a rectifier that turns AC into DC. Thats supplies the DC bus. The inverter runs from the DC bus that also is stacked with DC capacitors. The batteries also tap off of the DC bus so they are getting charged. When the input goes out of tolerance the rectifier shuts down and the current flow then comes from the batteries to the DC bus. Like I said zero transfer time.

Here is a simple one line block diagram. This shows 230V input but that can be 120 up to 600V.


----------



## JustinThyme

Conversely this is a line interactive where the current flow during normal operation is utility feeding though the static switch up top. This is one of the better ones that has a voltage regulator built in on the bypass. Most do not and what goes in goes right back out.


----------



## chibi

JustinThyme said:


> _Snip_
> 
> For what you have a 1600 should do fine. What I would recommended for you is this guy as they have done away with the 1600. This is a 1500 good for 1300 watts. You can go up to the 2200 but it costs a bit more and anything more you cant run from a 20amp outlet. This is if you want true protection from every electrical disturbance known to man. In the UPS world you get what you pay for. What's on the shelf at best buy and the cheap brands like cyberpower and tripplite just dont cut it as they are all line interactive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> APC Smart-UPS On-Line, 1500VA, Tower, 120V, 6x 5-15R NEMA outlets, SmartSlot, Extended runtime, W/O rail kit - SRT1500XLA | APC USA
> 
> 
> SRT1500XLA - APC Smart-UPS On-Line, 1500VA, Tower, 120V, 6x 5-15R NEMA outlets, SmartSlot, Extended runtime, W/O rail kit | APC USA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.apc.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You but this and you dont need an surge protector so thats a little money saved. Even the cheap surge protectors are garbage. A decent one will run you upwards of $100 or more. This UPS has a good bit of outlets and if that isnt enough a plain old power strip is just fine.
> 
> I'm pretty knowledgeable in this field.
> 
> _Snip_


Thanks buddy, exactly what I was looking for. This one is a bit out of my price range but it's something to work towards in the future. I'll see what the hardware guys are doing and try to piggy back onto a deal reg 

Also looks like the electrical outlet will need to be upgraded to be compatible with L5‑20P input of the UPS. Can the SRT 1500VA be ran on a 15 amp line? Or must that also be upgraded to a preferably dedicated 20 amp?


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> If you want true protection you need an online dual conversion UPS. They aren't at the cheap end though. The surge protection devices only protect you from something such as a lightning strike and are sacrificial lambs. They simply have movs that pop. They do nothing for transients, surges or spikes and neither does a cheap UPS. The budget end UPSs are line interactive so you are getting utility power unless the power goes out of tolerance then its UPS power and not true sinewave, closer to a square wave. The online dual conversion protects you from everything. Input and output are totally isolation. Makes AC into DC then DC back into AC so there is zero switching time and you are always on inverter with a pure sinewave output. How much you need depends on your rig. I originally had a 1600Va but that wasnt enough. When I was really pushing a 10980XE and a pair of 2080Tis I kept hearing a beeping noise and took me awhile to figure out it was my UPS going into overload. 1600Va with a 0.8 power factor gets you 1280W. I upped to a 2200VA with a .9 PF that gets me 1980W.
> 
> For what you have a 1600 should do fine. What I would recommended for you is this guy as they have done away with the 1600. This is a 1500 good for 1300 watts. You can go up to the 2200 but it costs a bit more and anything more you cant run from a 20amp outlet. This is if you want true protection from every electrical disturbance known to man. In the UPS world you get what you pay for. What's on the shelf at best buy and the cheap brands like cyberpower and tripplite just dont cut it as they are all line interactive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> APC Smart-UPS On-Line, 1500VA, Tower, 120V, 6x 5-15R NEMA outlets, SmartSlot, Extended runtime, W/O rail kit - SRT1500XLA | APC USA
> 
> 
> SRT1500XLA - APC Smart-UPS On-Line, 1500VA, Tower, 120V, 6x 5-15R NEMA outlets, SmartSlot, Extended runtime, W/O rail kit | APC USA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.apc.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You but this and you dont need an surge protector so thats a little money saved. Even the cheap surge protectors are garbage. A decent one will run you upwards of $100 or more. This UPS has a good bit of outlets and if that isnt enough a plain old power strip is just fine.
> 
> I'm pretty knowledgeable in this field. At least Schneider electric thinks so as I work in platform engineering for the enterprise systems that run up in the 1.6MW range and can be paralleled up to 4 for a total power density of 6.4MW.....Yes thats 6.4 MILLION watts and multiple systems. The large financials, co-location and places like google, Microsoft, Facebook, NSA, Pentagon to name a few all run the large systems. Not uncommon to see one facility with 50MW of UPS power with 50MW of diesel generators behind that. I could write a book on redundancy but the average enterprise site has 4 levels of redundancy in UPS then double that when they have dual corded power supplies in their servers and switches that bumps that up to 8 levels. In other words its a major sh!t storm if they lose power. When they do its normally human intervention that caused it and the facilities manager that was at home in bed when it happened and whoever did it get escorted to HR. While they are in there getting fired all their credentials are being wiped, badges rendered inoperable etc then they are escorted out by security. They dont even get to go back and collect any personal belongings. Some one will box it all up and ship it to their address on file.
> 
> As for dual conversion running on battery and burning them out thats not at all how they work. At the input is a rectifier that turns AC into DC. Thats supplies the DC bus. The inverter runs from the DC bus that also is stacked with DC capacitors. The batteries also tap off of the DC bus so they are getting charged. When the input goes out of tolerance the rectifier shuts down and the current flow then comes from the batteries to the DC bus. Like I said zero transfer time.
> 
> Here is a simple one line block diagram. This shows 230V input but that can be 120 up to 600V.
> 
> View attachment 2532547


Great tip. At some point i will need that sort of power backup for home automation/alarm system in current or future homes


----------



## arvinz

chibi said:


> My new chungus duo has arrived. Despite their small looks, these blocks are abnormally heavy! The competitor blocks feel like paper mache craft in comparison, lol.
> 
> The game plan is to swap out the GPU nickel cold plate with copper to match the CPU block. I'll have both CPU and GPU nickel cold plates as hot spares for future considerations.
> 
> Waiting on a Corsair AX1600i PSU as my next upgrade, hopefully will get that later this afternoon if the tracking info is anything to go by.
> 
> View attachment 2532415



I just got my replacement black cerakote strix cold plate as well and will be swapping it out. Do we need to wash/clean them before swapping? If so, just regular dish soap will do?


----------



## Biggu

chibi said:


> Thanks buddy, exactly what I was looking for. This one is a bit out of my price range but it's something to work towards in the future. I'll see what the hardware guys are doing and try to piggy back onto a deal reg
> 
> Also looks like the electrical outlet will need to be upgraded to be compatible with L5‑20P input of the UPS. Can the SRT 1500VA be ran on a 15 amp line? Or must that also be upgraded to a preferably dedicated 20 amp?


The 1500va uses a 5-15p so its good for 15 amp service. The 2200va is 5-20p so its rated for a 20amp circuit and should be only used on 20 amp.

At work I deployed the SMT1500c, SMT2200c (rack mount and tower), and SMT3000c in network closets, control rooms and other locations that needed it. In an Ideal world we would have gone with the SRT line because its a much better unit but I factored in a few things making the choice. The old units were 14 years old, all original and only had the batteries replaced. The power that we see is conditioned and is stable which relates to why the old units were able to live so long. Last most important thing was cost I was able to do the SMT line for 1/3 of the cost of the SRT but again we just have them to cover the time from utility drop to generator online.


----------



## Keith Myers

chibi said:


> @JustinThyme - hey buddy, can I pick your brain on a suggested UPS? Just got my AX1600i in and possibly thinking to add a UPS as well. Looking for something pro-consumer grade but not the hardcore rack mounted APC units. What's the best one for this absolute unit of a PSU? Other parts are an overclocked 9900KS and 3080 Ti FTW3, monitor, laptop, modem etc.
> 
> Also, is something like this power strip suitable, compared to the APC ones that boasts a bunch of surge protection lingo?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Opentron OT4126 12-Outlet Heavy Duty Metal Surge Protector Power Strip with Mounting Parts - 4 Feet body 6 Feet Power Cord : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy Opentron OT4126 12-Outlet Heavy Duty Metal Surge Protector Power Strip with Mounting Parts - 4 Feet body 6 Feet Power Cord: Surge Protectors - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


What's your actual consumption during highest system usage? Put a Kill-a-Watt meter on the system to find your highest consumption and then look for a UPS that covers 150% of that. That way you get some decent runtime on the UPS during a power outage. Also only get a true RMS sinusoidal output. I have APC SmartUPS or BackUPS units. BR1500G (quasi-sinusoidal), SMT1500C, SMT2200C. I have heard great things about the equivalent CyberPower units also.


----------



## Keith Myers

chibi said:


> Thanks buddy, exactly what I was looking for. This one is a bit out of my price range but it's something to work towards in the future. I'll see what the hardware guys are doing and try to piggy back onto a deal reg
> 
> Also looks like the electrical outlet will need to be upgraded to be compatible with L5‑20P input of the UPS. Can the SRT 1500VA be ran on a 15 amp line? Or must that also be upgraded to a preferably dedicated 20 amp?


That model has a Input: NEMA 5-15P connector. So runs off the standard 15A circuit.


----------



## anticommon

Hey quick question here guys, is there anywhere the foundation block can be found and actually in stock to ship (within a week or two?)

Otherwise I'm looking at the all copper or acetal heatkiller IV pro block which is around the same price ($111 on ebay for copper/nickel).

Currently I've got a touchaqua block that came as part of a O11 titan one watercooling setup I snagged and it's just kind of a garbage block (or my 5950x runs really hot who knows) and am hoping for a bit better heat removal from the CPU.


----------



## anticommon

LiquidHaus said:


> A few of you guys have asked, so I figured I'd put it in here. EXT Pre-Order is live! Orders ship within 2-3 weeks.



I've got a couple 560mm rads sitting around and have been trying to figure out a decent way to re-use them as an external rad but this is pretty slick. If I don't go for a more DIY approach then this might be just the thing.

What's the normal solution for power to the pumps/fans?


----------



## Section31

arvinz said:


> I just got my replacement black cerakote strix cold plate as well and will be swapping it out. Do we need to wash/clean them before swapping? If so, just regular dish soap will do?


It's not required. Depends how dirty your block is. Closely inspect and shine an flash light at your midplate/coldplate. In regards to cleaning:

A. Dish soap really only works on the cast acrylic part i found.
B. If your doing the midplate o-ring, get an eraser to do the job.
C. Midplate/Cold Plate i would wash with water only (distilled prefered). If you need to scrub stuff off then its one of ultrasonic, mothergold's plus microfibre and then manual labour using toothpaste.

The flash light tend to shows you more imperfections than the naked eye can see. However, the amount of work you really want to do is up to you. I cleaned the stuff before and i don't particularly enjoy the toothpaste method.


----------



## Section31

anticommon said:


> I've got a couple 560mm rads sitting around and have been trying to figure out a decent way to re-use them as an external rad but this is pretty slick. If I don't go for a more DIY approach then this might be just the thing.
> 
> What's the normal solution for power to the pumps/fans?


There's an couple methods just depends on your budget/personal preference. Some run an connection directly into the computer psu (through pcie bracket options). Others just run an seperate PSU for the external unit. An D5 Next is one way also to reduce the amount of cables needed.

There are couple nicely done one for Mo-Ra3 360/420 builds that you can look at. Similar concept can be applied on the mount made by liquidhaus.


----------



## JustinThyme

chibi said:


> Thanks buddy, exactly what I was looking for. This one is a bit out of my price range but it's something to work towards in the future. I'll see what the hardware guys are doing and try to piggy back onto a deal reg
> 
> Also looks like the electrical outlet will need to be upgraded to be compatible with L5‑20P input of the UPS. Can the SRT 1500VA be ran on a 15 amp line? Or must that also be upgraded to a preferably dedicated 20 amp?





chibi said:


> Thanks buddy, exactly what I was looking for. This one is a bit out of my price range but it's something to work towards in the future. I'll see what the hardware guys are doing and try to piggy back onto a deal reg
> 
> Also looks like the electrical outlet will need to be upgraded to be compatible with L5‑20P input of the UPS. Can the SRT 1500VA be ran on a 15 amp line? Or must that also be upgraded to a preferably dedicated 20 amp?


yes a 15 amp input will work so long as its not loaded with a bunch of other things on the same circuit. The input cord is a NEMA 5-15P or standard 15 amp PC type power cord. The 2200 is the same, just a bit larger gauge wire. One is 14awg and the latter is 12awg. Comes with cord. Didnt have to change the outlet for eitther. I run my 2200 on a dedicated 20 amp circuit. That was a PITA as the breaker panel in in the basement and my home office is on the second floor and of course the wall where I needed the outlet is on the opposite side of a vaulted ceiling. Getting the wire to the attic wasnt all that bad, getting it to the backside of the vaulted ceiling and down the wall took half a day and I ended up having to cut out some dry wall and patch it back on the top of the wall as there wasnt a way to get a drill in there without worrying about a roof penetration. I ran a 3 wire with ground so if I need to add another I can just by putting in another breaker. They can share the neutral so long as they aren't on the same pole of the panel.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Great tip. At some point i will need that sort of power backup for home automation/alarm system in current or future homes


I have a 5kW in the basement that came out of a decommissioned site, they were gonna toss it so I took it. That powers security, my home entertainment circuit smoke and fire and several lights. One in each room. Also have a 20kW whole house natural gas generator with an automatic transfer switch. Power goes out and 30 seconds later the engine starts and the switch transfers and Im back in business. Can run everything in the house.


----------



## criskoe

Man mounting these Optimus blocks horizontal is rough! The sag is real. I could hear my PCI Slot crying. 

The dam anti sag thing that came with my case doesnt fit on my motherboard cause of the oversized PCH heatsink. So I bent the little metal thing and screwed it down to the fan and it works wonders! No more Sag!


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

teamrushpntball said:


> I sent this into Optimus as well but wondering if anyone here might have any suggestions or thoughts on what my issue may be.
> 
> I finally got around to installing my Optimus Strix 3090 water block last weekend. Since installing I've had intermittent display shutdowns leading to my whole PC shutting down within 10-15 seconds. Checking GPUZ logging after a crash shows the die temp at a max of 50 C and memory temp at a max of 80 C even with the screws loosened a fair bit.
> 
> I have updated my Nvidia drivers to the newest version, updated Windows and updated my bios to the newest revision. I've removed all over clocks on everything. I even under clocked my GPU. I have reseated the GPU block and back plate 3 times now. I have used varying degrees of tightening on the screws.



Having the exact same ussues with my Optimus Strix 3090 oc…at the 15ish sec mark my pc shuts down and powers back up?! It’s not even a real reboot that you see the bios or aorus logo from my x570 xtreme mobo,just a blank black screen followed by the login screen and back up running like nothing happened.

Lately it’s around the 2-5min mark,sometimes it never comes but it’s a 8/10 time thing. I thought I was the only one.

My temps are waaay below yours and it still happens,really wondering what’s going on? Is it from the Optimus block or is it something else,didn’t have these random reboots/shutdowns before I’ve installed the block


----------



## Biggu

criskoe said:


> Man mounting these Optimus blocks horizontal is rough! The sag is real. I could hear my PCI Slot crying.
> 
> The dam anti sag thing that came with my case doesnt fit on my motherboard cause of the oversized PCH heatsink. So I bent the little metal thing and screwed it down to the fan and it works wonders! No more Sag!



man that wrapped block looks so good. Ive never had any GPU sag on mine and I thought for sure the optimus block would do that but I was wrong. I guess thats something to say about the Caselabs quality is the material is so thick and sturdy no GPU sag.


----------



## criskoe

Omg. I’m so dumb. Got everything installed and looped filled up. Was so excited and wasn’t thinking about anything other then I hope my direct die has good contact and that my gpu mount is good and my stupid ass didn’t throw the little speed switch on all the T30 fans. ***. The bottom ones are fine but I got 6 more of them that I can only access from the front of the fan.

anyone know of a trick to flip the switches on them? My fat fingers can’t fit between the blades.


----------



## satinghostrider

criskoe said:


> Omg. I’m so dumb. Got everything installed and looped filled up. Was so excited and wasn’t thinking about anything other then I hope my direct die has good contact and that my gpu mount is good and my stupid ass didn’t throw the little speed switch on all the T30 fans. ***. The bottom ones are fine but I got 6 more of them that I can only access from the front of the fan.
> 
> anyone know of a tick to flip them? My fat fingers can’t fit between the blades.


I guess you could try using an ice-cream stick to try to flip the switch at an angle if you have space. Otherwise it's gonna be quite a chore to remove it and toggle it.


----------



## HyperMatrix

@Optimus WC absent for a very long time with no updates on KP block. I like that they’re going back to their roots. #Nostalgia


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> @Optimus WC absent for a very long time with no updates on KP block. I like that they’re going back to their roots. #Nostalgia


Probably cooking something very very awesome/great/mindblowing for us like always!
Stay tuned it’ll be a gamechanger…


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Probably cooking something very very awesome/great/mindblowing for us like always!
> Stay tuned it’ll be a gamechanger…


I’ll take two! At this point you just have to treat Optimus orders like NFTs. You’re paying for something. And you know you’re getting the best. But all you’ll have is a picture and proof of purchase. 😂


----------



## tps3443

Delete.


----------



## Section31

Keep on investing into more tools


----------



## criskoe

So for the lurkers or for anyone that cares. I just wanted to post the flow hit when changing to the higher fin density Optimus blocks. The comparison is is pretty much apples to apples. The Loop runs, fittings and radiators stayed exactly the same on the same single D5 pump.. The only thing that was changed was the cpu block from a EK magnitude to a Optimus foundation and a EK gpu block to the optimus Absolute FTW gpu block. Everything else exactly the same. 

The flow was measured with a aquacomputer high flow. The flow is still decent enough considering its just a single D5. It went from 284 LPH to 240LPH on max pump speed. So a hit of about 44 LPH. Not too bad I guess. Still keeps me just above the 1 GPM mark so Im happy. 

As for temperature differences, Well my cpu is now direct die so not really a fair comparison. And the GPU is different so yeah comparing these numbers is pointless. 

I know I was really curious about this before so I thought I would post it incase anyone else out there wanted to know a one for one flow comparison.


----------



## criskoe

Also should add that it looks like adding those 2mm thermal pads to the coils on the card have not had any adverse effect on the mount of the FTW3 block. Mount still seems great. 

Havent had much time to do any real deep testing or overclocking as I just got it up and running again but I loaded up a loop of timespy for a hour and captured all the ICX temps. All the Mem and PWR sensors look good. And the gpu delta fluctuates between 8-10C at max. Wattage was avg 400watts. 

Room is really cool right now. Ambient of 18C. 

So with that said I cannot say for sure if adding the 2mm thermal pads on the coils have really done anything and are worth it or not. But on the other hand it has not done anything bad so yeah maybe a good idea for the FTW3 cards.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Also should add that it looks like adding those 2mm thermal pads to the coils on the card have not had any adverse effect on the mount of the FTW3 block. Mount still seems great.
> 
> Havent had much time to do any real deep testing or overclocking as I just got it up and running again but I loaded up a loop of timespy for a hour and captured all the ICX temps. All the Mem and PWR sensors look good. And the gpu delta fluctuates between 8-10C at max. Wattage was avg 400watts.
> 
> Room is really cool right now. Ambient of 18C.
> 
> So with that said I cannot say for sure if adding the 2mm thermal pads on the coils have really done anything and are worth it or not. But on the other hand it has not done anything bad so yeah maybe a good idea for the FTW3 cards.
> 
> View attachment 2533286


Great Testing. The Optimus results is pretty good. Next rig in 23/24, i am going with full internal build with larger rads that removes the need for the mo-ra3.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> Keep on investing into more tools


nice. How much torque do this little guys have? You get it for keeb building?


----------



## criskoe

satinghostrider said:


> I guess you could try using an ice-cream stick to try to flip the switch at an angle if you have space. Otherwise it's gonna be quite a chore to remove it and toggle it.


well after about 30 min of dicking around trying to flip the switches I gave up. Lol. Had to drain and remove radiators to get at the dam switches. Lol. Wasn’t happy with myself at all.


If any of you guys buy these fans. Don’t be a dumb ass like me. remember to flip the switches. Lol.


----------



## satinghostrider

criskoe said:


> well after about 30 min of dicking around trying to flip the switches I gave up. Lol. Had to drain and remove radiators to get at the dam switches. Lol. Wasn’t happy with myself at all.
> 
> 
> If any of you guys buy these fans. Don’t be a dumb ass like me. remember to flip the switches. Lol.


Good god! Well, a chaotic lesson just for a damn switch. Glad it's resolved now.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> well after about 30 min of dicking around trying to flip the switches I gave up. Lol. Had to drain and remove radiators to get at the dam switches. Lol. Wasn’t happy with myself at all.
> 
> 
> If any of you guys buy these fans. Don’t be a dumb ass like me. remember to flip the switches. Lol.


Happened to me also but my setup was modular so wasn’t hard to fix. I also originally orientated the fans in wrong direction too.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> nice. How much torque do this little guys have? You get it for keeb building?


Yes i did. Then realized helps on watercooling also (optimus blocks). Has three torx


----------



## criskoe

So after a little bit here playing with Precision X. I maxed the power and temp slider. And did some quick dirty bumps to the GPU core and memory clocks. Havent touched the voltages or curves and still on stock bios. 

So far im getting a 21762 Graphics score on Time Spy. 

What graphics scores you guys getting with your 3080ti/3090s?? 

Also the core clock is pretty strait forward but what value you guys find as a avg for the Memory? Just keep bumping it till you see artifacts? Im already at a 1000 bump on the mem... That seems like alot? Keep going? LOL


----------



## HyperMatrix

criskoe said:


> So after a little bit here playing with Precision X. I maxed the power and temp slider. And did some quick dirty bumps to the GPU core and memory clocks. Havent touched the voltages or curves and still on stock bios.
> 
> So far im getting a 21762 Graphics score on Time Spy.
> 
> What graphics scores you guys getting with your 3080ti/3090s??
> 
> Also the core clock is pretty strait forward but what value you guys find as a avg for the Memory? Just keep bumping it till you see artifacts? Im already at a 1000 bump on the mem... That seems like alot? Keep going? LOL


1000 isn’t too much on memory as long as you have any sort of cooling on there. I do +1350MHz on mine for benching and +1250MHz for daily use while I have a fan/ram block on there. No voltage increase to memory to get those numbers. My last card also did 1250. My friends card also does 1250-1350. Every card is different though. Generally speaking you just gotta find your max stable non-artifacting clock and go 100MHz lower for peace of mind daily use.


----------



## anticommon

HyperMatrix said:


> 1000 isn’t too much on memory as long as you have any sort of cooling on there. I do +1350MHz on mine for benching and +1250MHz for daily use while I have a fan/ram block on there. No voltage increase to memory to get those numbers. My last card also did 1250. My friends card also does 1250-1350. Every card is different though. Generally speaking you just gotta find your max stable non-artifacting clock and go 100MHz lower for peace of mind daily use.


My FTW3 Hydrocopper craps out at +650mhz and only runs stable at 500-550 for extended use. Wonder if the block needs better pads or something.


----------



## acoustic

anticommon said:


> My FTW3 Hydrocopper craps out at +650mhz and only runs stable at 500-550 for extended use. Wonder if the block needs better pads or something.


I doubt it. Some cards just don't have good chips. My original 3080FTW3 (release day non-LHR) that just recently died out of no where couldn't do above +600. It was +600 on air, and +700 ONLY FOR BENCHING on water. Temps can help very slightly but it doesn't make that much of a difference. Silicon lottery like everything else.


----------



## anticommon

acoustic said:


> I doubt it. Some cards just don't have good chips. My original 3080FTW3 (release day non-LHR) that just recently died out of no where couldn't do above +600. It was +600 on air, and +700 ONLY FOR BENCHING on water. Temps can help very slightly but it doesn't make that much of a difference. Silicon lottery like everything else.



I've also got a 3080 Ti instead of 3080 so I wonder if the already boosted (250mhz?) default memory speed has something to do with it especially if they use the same modules. 

What's weird is that out of all the cards I've ever owned I have NEVER had luck with memory OC. Everything from a 780, 1080, 1080ti, 2080ti and now my 3080ti have been sub-par memory overclockers. I've also never had a ram set that will do more than 200mhz over base speed even with +50/100 mv.

I'm just not lucky with memory.


----------



## chibi

I ordered some thermal putty from Digikey. Hopefully it can get here somehow, considering how wrecked our interior highways have been damaged from the BC floods.

50 gram pot restocked. Going to repaste the vrms, inductors and memory chips with this once I install the block.






TG-PP10-50 t-Global Technology | Fans, Thermal Management | DigiKey


Order today, ships today. TG-PP10-50 – Thermal Silicone Putty 50 gram Container from t-Global Technology. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.




www.digikey.ca


----------



## HyperMatrix

anticommon said:


> My FTW3 Hydrocopper craps out at +650mhz and only runs stable at 500-550 for extended use. Wonder if the block needs better pads or something.


Just a bit of silicon lottery as mentioned. My first 3090 was a Strix that could do I think +700 or +800 only. I was just mentioning in terms of "safety" there's no issue with higher clocks, as long as you're stable and have some form of cooling on the back. Optimus XL backplate with even moderate airflow in the case should suffice.


----------



## anticommon

HyperMatrix said:


> Just a bit of silicon lottery as mentioned. My first 3090 was a Strix that could do I think +700 or +800 only. I was just mentioning in terms of "safety" there's no issue with higher clocks, as long as you're stable and have some form of cooling on the back. Optimus XL backplate with even moderate airflow in the case should suffice.


3080Ti only has memory on the front side near the core right? I thought it was just 3090 that used the back of PCB for memory chips since it has twice as many.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> I ordered some thermal putty from Digikey. Hopefully it can get here somehow, considering how wrecked our interior highways have been damaged from the BC floods.
> 
> 50 gram pot restocked. Going to repaste the vrms, inductors and memory chips with this once I install the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TG-PP10-50 t-Global Technology | Fans, Thermal Management | DigiKey
> 
> 
> Order today, ships today. TG-PP10-50 – Thermal Silicone Putty 50 gram Container from t-Global Technology. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.digikey.ca


If its from us, it should be better since only route is through us border. Computer parts out in bc going to be out of stock by bf/cm. No restocks coming due to the highway damage.

Good time to resell your computer here if so. Short term price increase coming.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Just a bit of silicon lottery as mentioned. My first 3090 was a Strix that could do I think +700 or +800 only. I was just mentioning in terms of "safety" there's no issue with higher clocks, as long as you're stable and have some form of cooling on the back. Optimus XL backplate with even moderate airflow in the case should suffice.


Yeah lot of silicon lottery. Optimus backplate is one of the reasons to buy them. Scary thing is we might need active/other solutions for next gen. Power numbers only going up and up.

I am hoping there some sort of improvement in cpu design cooling by lunarlake/amd equivalent (blocks can only go so far) so we can reach even lower temperatures.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> Yeah lot of silicon lottery. Optimus backplate is one of the reasons to buy them. Scary thing is we might need active/other solutions for next gen. Power numbers only going up and up.
> 
> I am hoping there some sort of improvement in cpu design cooling by lunarlake/amd equivalent (blocks can only go so far) so we can reach even lower temperatures.


Well. Personally...I'd rather have 3x the performance for 2x the power usage than to have 2x the performance for the same power usage. Temperatures can be overcome. Performance limitations can't. 




anticommon said:


> 3080Ti only has memory on the front side near the core right? I thought it was just 3090 that used the back of PCB for memory chips since it has twice as many.


Yes I believe it's just single sided. I wasn't paying attention to the 3080ti portion of your build. Haha. Just commenting on 3090 in general. So one good question would be voltage and power made available to memory on the 3080ti. 3080ti is clocked slightly lower on memory, no? So you'd need even higher +MHz to match the 3090. I know with mine I can hit around 22222MHz or something. I forget the exact number. But yeah without having some way to increase memory voltage, you're going to be limited to whatever you can get without artifacting. There's really no unsafe limit at stock voltage when using a block.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Well. Personally...I'd rather have 3x the performance for 2x the power usage than to have 2x the performance for the same power usage. Temperatures can be overcome. Performance limitations can't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I believe it's just single sided. I wasn't paying attention to the 3080ti portion of your build. Haha. Just commenting on 3090 in general. So one good question would be voltage and power made available to memory on the 3080ti. 3080ti is clocked slightly lower on memory, no? So you'd need even higher +MHz to match the 3090. I know with mine I can hit around 22222MHz or something. I forget the exact number. But yeah without having some way to increase memory voltage, you're going to be limited to whatever you can get without artifacting. There's really no unsafe limit at stock voltage when using a block.


Performance is king for us. Cooling i can buy extra. I will only update gpu when they are 4k120 native (no dlss etc) for high end titles. It's going to be awhile before 8k TV and 4k120 hdr 10 monitors become affordable.


----------



## anticommon

Section31 said:


> Performance is king for us. Cooling i can buy extra. I will only update gpu when they are 4k120 native (no dlss etc) for high end titles. It's going to be awhile before 8k TV and 4k120 hdr 10 monitors become affordable.



I would consider the 3080/3080ti/3090 to be the first real native 4k GPUs, yeah many wont hit 100+ fps in brand new titles but in general it's a hell of a lot better than even a 2080ti across the board. I've got a 27GN950 and my 3080ti keeps Apex at a (more or less) locked 160fps @ 4k with usually around 70-90% GPU usage. 

DLSS is a bummer for some games but if they keep improving it like they say they will then for non-FPS games I don't really see much issue with it. For FPS games it's almost a no brainer not to use it since it will inevitably induce an input lag or degrade visibility to some extent. You can argue DLSS improves things by rendering far more frames but framerate does not paint the entire picture of latency from click to screen.


----------



## SoldierRBT

Got my Optimus Sig V2 today and the results aren't good. I've tried rotated the block, applied new thermal paste and results are the same. My heatkiller IV Pro without the LGA1700 mounting kit which should improve pressure, can run 6-8C cooler than the Optimus block at the same conditions/voltages. I was wondering what I'm missing. 

Heatkiller IV Pro 1.146v underload R23 72C
Optimus Sig V2 1.146v underload R23 78C


----------



## geriatricpollywog

SoldierRBT said:


> Got my Optimus Sig V2 today and the results aren't good. I've tried rotated the block, applied new thermal paste and results are the same. My heatkiller IV Pro without the LGA1700 mounting kit which should improve pressure, can run 6-8C cooler than the Optimus block at the same conditions/voltages. I was wondering what I'm missing.
> 
> Heatkiller IV Pro 1.146v underload R23 72C
> Optimus Sig V2 1.146v underload R23 78C


EK waterblocks come with a backplate to prevent PCB flex, springs for the mounting posts, and mounting nuts that stop. The Optimus Sig V2 comes with none of that. You have to get equal torque on the mounting nuts to get equal pressure across the heatspreader.

The Sig V2 works great with EK mounting hardware on LGA 1200. But on LGA 1700 you need to add spacers under the springs to get good mounting pressure.

EK Supremacy EVO works fine on LGA 1700 with the EK LGA 1700 backplate.


----------



## SoldierRBT

0451 said:


> EK waterblocks come with a backplate to prevent PCB flex, springs for the mounting posts, and mounting nuts that stop. The Optimus Sig V2 comes with none of that. You have to get equal torque on the mounting nuts to get equal pressure across the heatspreader.
> 
> The Sig V2 works great with EK mounting hardware on LGA 1200. But on LGA 1700 you need to add spacers under the springs to get good mounting pressure.
> 
> EK Supremacy EVO works fine on LGA 1700 with the EK LGA 1700 backplate.


 Thanks. Should I get the new EK-Quantum Velocity backplate LGA1700 to improve mounting pressure on my Sig V2?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

SoldierRBT said:


> Thanks. Should I get the new EK-Quantum Velocity backplate LGA1700 to improve mounting pressure on my Sig V2?


I have that backplate and it does nothing for mounting pressure, just gets the hole spacing right for non-Asus boards. The problem is the springs aren’t tall enough. If you add some washers under the springs the pressure should be good. 3mm or so should do it.

I haven’t tried adding washers, just hypothesizing. I switched to my EK Supremacy EVO but I might get some washers from Ace Hardware this weekend.


----------



## Section31

SoldierRBT said:


> Got my Optimus Sig V2 today and the results aren't good. I've tried rotated the block, applied new thermal paste and results are the same. My heatkiller IV Pro without the LGA1700 mounting kit which should improve pressure, can run 6-8C cooler than the Optimus block at the same conditions/voltages. I was wondering what I'm missing.
> 
> Heatkiller IV Pro 1.146v underload R23 72C
> Optimus Sig V2 1.146v underload R23 78C





SoldierRBT said:


> Got my Optimus Sig V2 today and the results aren't good. I've tried rotated the block, applied new thermal paste and results are the same. My heatkiller IV Pro without the LGA1700 mounting kit which should improve pressure, can run 6-8C cooler than the Optimus block at the same conditions/voltages. I was wondering what I'm missing.
> 
> Heatkiller IV Pro 1.146v underload R23 72C
> Optimus Sig V2 1.146v underload R23 78C


Any other settings. I played around with mine again and with cb23 scores of 26800-27000, i am getting max 70-72 degree. Water temp are 22-24degrees.

I have to redo my thermal paste (currently mx5) and replace with thermal right tfx. That should shave another 1-2 degrees off max.

Using the normal optimus mount in regular position.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> I have that backplate and it does nothing for mounting pressure, just gets the hole spacing right for non-Asus boards. The problem is the springs aren’t tall enough. If you add some washers under the springs the pressure should be good. 3mm or so should do it.
> 
> I haven’t tried adding washers, just hypothesizing. I switched to my EK Supremacy EVO but I might get some washers from Ace Hardware this weekend.


Nice info. I wish i had more time to tinker around like you guys.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Nice info. I wish i had more time to tinker around like you guys.


If I had time to tinker I would have multiple PCs \

Or do custom builds


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> If I had time to tinker I would have multiple PCs \
> 
> Or do custom builds


You have more time than me.

Everytime i go use the computer theres always updates and i still haven’t fully ironed out all the bugs i have within windows 11 fresh install. Spend like 30min doing maintenance stuff. So gives you idea how often i can make time for the computer.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> You have more time than me.
> 
> Everytime i go use the computer theres always updates and i still haven’t fully ironed out all the bugs i have within windows 11 fresh install. Spend like 30min doing maintenance stuff. So gives you idea how often i can make time for the computer.


If you have Windows 11 you already have more time than me.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

criskoe said:


> well after about 30 min of dicking around trying to flip the switches I gave up. Lol. Had to drain and remove radiators to get at the dam switches. Lol. Wasn’t happy with myself at all.
> 
> 
> If any of you guys buy these fans. Don’t be a dumb ass like me. remember to flip the switches. Lol.


😂🤣 Thank god my dumbass had to only unscrew 3 of them to flip the switch. Me all happy just took them out and what can go wrong,screw them to my pc case ,go into aquacomputer octo set the speeds…done,easy job?! Guess not ehhhhh


----------



## criskoe

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> 😂🤣 Thank god my dumbass had to only unscrew 3 of them to flip the switch. Me all happy just took them out and what can go wrong,screw them to my pc case ,go into aquacomputer octo set the speeds…done,easy job?! Guess not ehhhhh


LOL Thats exactly what I did. Was so focused on my direct die mount and the GPU block mount that I just breezed past it even though when unboxing the first one I played with the little switch and made a mental note like dont forget to flip the switches. LOL... 

Well I completely forgot of course and actually thought that there was something wrong with my aquero at first cause the fans would only spin at 2000 rpm at max. I was like ***... Then it hit me... I turned everything off and left the room I was so upset with myself. LOL.....


----------



## Paramedic10

SoldierRBT said:


> Got my Optimus Sig V2 today and the results aren't good. I've tried rotated the block, applied new thermal paste and results are the same. My heatkiller IV Pro without the LGA1700 mounting kit which should improve pressure, can run 6-8C cooler than the Optimus block at the same conditions/voltages. I was wondering what I'm missing.
> 
> Heatkiller IV Pro 1.146v underload R23 72C
> Optimus Sig V2 1.146v underload R23 78C


That's a little disconcerting. I just ordered a V2 from optimus for my 12900k. Any updates on this?



0451 said:


> EK waterblocks come with a backplate to prevent PCB flex, springs for the mounting posts, and mounting nuts that stop. The Optimus Sig V2 comes with none of that. You have to get equal torque on the mounting nuts to get equal pressure across the heatspreader.
> 
> The Sig V2 works great with EK mounting hardware on LGA 1200. But on LGA 1700 you need to add spacers under the springs to get good mounting pressure.
> 
> EK Supremacy EVO works fine on LGA 1700 with the EK LGA 1700 backplate.


Would the V2 work with a 1700 ek mount then? Where exactly do these washers go? Back side of the motherboard PCB? Little confused.


----------



## SoldierRBT

Paramedic10 said:


> That's a little disconcerting. I just ordered a V2 from optimus for my 12900k. Any updates on this?


Same result. Best I could get was 77C but still 5C higher than HK without LGA1700 backplate. I think I'm just having bad contact but I've already tried 4 times (Kryonaut and KPx, rotating block). I ordered the HK mounting kit for the 12900K. I'll share results.


----------



## acoustic

SoldierRBT said:


> Same result. Best I could get was 77C but still 5C higher than HK without LGA1700 backplate. I think I'm just having bad contact but I've already tried 4 times (Kryonaut and KPx, rotating block). I ordered the HK mounting kit for the 12900K. I'll share results.


I prefer KPx. I'm running the HKIV on my 12700K on an ASUS board with LGA1200/1151 mounts and I have very solid temps as it is. I'm hoping we see an HK V next year..


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Any news on kp? Nothing on twitter from @Optimus WC since 6th. Waiting without any news makes me crazy


----------



## Darkstar757

This the last product I purchase from them. They make great stuff but the ****ty communication is not excusable.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Paramedic10 said:


> Would the V2 work with a 1700 ek mount then? Where exactly do these washers go? Back side of the motherboard PCB? Little confused.


Yes, but you need to add washers here so the EK springs apply the correct pressure (Z590 board for demonstration purposes, as my EK hardware is on my Z690 board).


----------



## Paramedic10

SoldierRBT said:


> Same result. Best I could get was 77C but still 5C higher than HK without LGA1700 backplate. I think I'm just having bad contact but I've already tried 4 times (Kryonaut and KPx, rotating block). I ordered the HK mounting kit for the 12900K. I'll share results.


Definitely interested to see. I have an ASUS board which has both mounting holes as you know, but I do have a 1700 bracket from TT and one from EVGA that I'm using anyways on a CLC 280 AIO until the rest of my parts get here. Wonder if one of these brackets that is an official 1700 bracket would do the same as the HK one and provided proper mounting pressure?



0451 said:


> Yes, but you need to add washers here so the EK springs apply the correct pressure (Z590 board for demonstration purposes, as my EK hardware is on my Z690 board).
> 
> View attachment 2533768


Oh so the washers actually go right on the arms of the block, I see. You did this because you have a 1200 bracket and needed the extra mounting pressure? Or was it still bad with a 1700 bracket?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Paramedic10 said:


> Definitely interested to see. I have an ASUS board which has both mounting holes as you know, but I do have a 1700 bracket from TT and one from EVGA that I'm using anyways on a CLC 280 AIO until the rest of my parts get here. Wonder if one of these brackets that is an official 1700 bracket would do the same as the HK one and provided proper mounting pressure?
> 
> 
> 
> Oh so the washers actually go right on the arms of the block, I see. You did this because you have a 1200 bracket and needed the extra mounting pressure? Or was it still bad with a 1700 bracket?


I haven’t reinstalled the Optimus block yet, but the purpose of the spacers is to add mounting pressure when using an Optimus block with EK mounting hardware.

The purpose of the LGA1700 backplate is to get the holes to line up. It has nothing to do with mounting pressure. You don’t need the LGA1700 backplate if you have an Asus Z690 board because the PCB has holes for both LGA1200 and LGA1700.


----------



## Paramedic10

0451 said:


> I haven’t reinstalled the Optimus block yet, but the purpose of the spacers is to add mounting pressure when using an Optimus block with EK mounting hardware.
> 
> The purpose of the LGA1700 backplate is to get the holes to line up. It has nothing to do with mounting pressure. You don’t need the LGA1700 backplate if you have an Asus Z690 board because the PCB has holes for both LGA1200 and LGA1700.


Okay, I gotcha. So the mounting pressure from the default Optimus kit is sub-par it seems on 1700.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Paramedic10 said:


> Okay, I gotcha. So the mounting pressure from the default Optimus kit is sub-par it seems on 1700.


No. The mounting pressure is sub-pr when using the Optimus block with EK hardware on LGA1700. It’s probably fine using the Optimus hardware. I just don’t use the Optimus hardware because it doesn’t utilize a backplate or nuts that have a stop.


----------



## Paramedic10

0451 said:


> No. The mounting pressure is sub-pr when using the Optimus block with EK hardware on LGA1700. It’s probably fine using the Optimus hardware. I just don’t use the Optimus hardware because it doesn’t utilize a backplate or nuts that have a stop.


So basically concerned about overtightening and damaging the board, and without a backplate it makes it more susceptible to that I'd assume.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Paramedic10 said:


> So basically concerned about overtightening and damaging the board, and without a backplate it makes it more susceptible to that I'd assume.


I’m concerned with PCB flex and uneven mounting pressure. With EK hardware I get even mounting pressure and the same mounting pressure every time.


----------



## Paramedic10

0451 said:


> I’m concerned with PCB flex and uneven mounting pressure. With EK hardware I get even mounting pressure and the same mounting pressure every time.


Understood. Thanks for explaining.


----------



## 39life

Hi guys, need a quick tip. I have picked up msi z690 board and currently have HK IV. 
I got two options : either order extra washers from Watercool for lga1700 or buy Foundation block ( which was in my plans lately)
Do I need to get any extra hardware if I go with Optimus, like washers? 
I know Asus will work straight. But MSI has some different position. Optimus says on their web-site its suitable with 1700 socket. 
I noticed you were talking about EK's mounting. Do i need to get EK springs/washers for optimus block ?a bit confused. Thank you in advance.


----------



## D-EJ915

39life said:


> Hi guys, need a quick tip. I have picked up msi z690 board and currently have HK IV.
> I got two options : either order extra washers from Watercool for lga1700 or buy Foundation block ( which was in my plans lately)
> Do I need to get any extra hardware if I go with Optimus, like washers?
> I know Asus will work straight. But MSI has some different position. Optimus says on their web-site its suitable with 1700 socket.
> I noticed you were talking about EK's mounting. Do i need to get EK springs/washers for optimus block ?a bit confused. Thank you in advance.


I would just get the 1700 mounting equipment from watercool for your heatkiller.


----------



## acoustic

Someone sleeping at t


39life said:


> Hi guys, need a quick tip. I have picked up msi z690 board and currently have HK IV.
> I got two options : either order extra washers from Watercool for lga1700 or buy Foundation block ( which was in my plans lately)
> Do I need to get any extra hardware if I go with Optimus, like washers?
> I know Asus will work straight. But MSI has some different position. Optimus says on their web-site its suitable with 1700 socket.
> I noticed you were talking about EK's mounting. Do i need to get EK springs/washers for optimus block ?a bit confused. Thank you in advance.


Stick to the HKIV and grab the LGA1700 mounting kit from Watercool. There isn't much difference between the Foundation vs the HKIV, afaik. It's extremely small.


----------



## Paramedic10

Hearing about all the positives from the HK IV is making me question my purchase to go with the V2. Especially considering this mounting conundrum


----------



## Section31

Paramedic10 said:


> Hearing about all the positives from the HK IV is making me question my purchase to go with the V2. Especially considering this mounting conundrum


Its an reliable block. I would like accoustic said wait for watercool cpu v if you went with sig v2. Watercool CPU V it shouldn’t take too long to release an updated block. 

I haven’t encountered the issues they say. I am very satisfied with the performance of my v2 block. 
However its really per individual setup


----------



## Section31

Paramedic10 said:


> Hearing about all the positives from the HK IV is making me question my purchase to go with the V2. Especially considering this mounting conundrum


These guys are very technical. Some of them have been using different mounting mechanisms for optimus blocks prior to lga1700 mainly sig v2 on x299 platform but they even tested on am4. Optimus later added native am4 mobo backplate support as result. They had some interesting results.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Someone sleeping at t
> 
> 
> Stick to the HKIV and grab the LGA1700 mounting kit from Watercool. There isn't much difference between the Foundation vs the HKIV, afaik. It's extremely small.


In agreement.

There’s another round of new blocks coming. Optimus updating sig blocks, aquacomputer probably working on next block and watercool cpu v in development. Techn and Optimus is making the competition improve products. Probably better to hold cash for those blocks.


----------



## Section31

With Optimus appearing to gone awol, it might be time to shut down this thread. Optimus can recreate one if they need to. I will let you guys have some input before i submit any requests to the mods. 

Nonetheless it was good time here (despite all the drama). It kept many of us in the hobby and it was place to discuss the watercooling hobby and parts related to it. Some great commentary added by many of the users here.


----------



## satinghostrider

Well, by any consolation, OptimusPC shipped out my block as promised by them over email. Yeah they take a while to reply but I believe they are working on getting the orders out as best they can. 

Not sure what people mean when they say AWOL. Like not posting updates here or not replying at all on email? They haven't really been posting much on OCN recently that's for sure.


----------



## Section31

satinghostrider said:


> Well, by any consolation, OptimusPC shipped out my block as promised by them over email. Yeah they take a while to reply but I believe they are working on getting the orders out as best they can.
> 
> Not sure what people mean when they say AWOL. Like not posting updates here or not replying at all on email? They haven't really been posting much on OCN recently that's for sure.


Congrat. Enjoy your block.

It‘s easier to reach them through email/twitter than here. They don’t come by much so this thread has outlived its lifespan.


----------



## 39life

Section31 said:


> In agreement.
> 
> There’s another round of new blocks coming. Optimus updating sig blocks, aquacomputer probably working on next block and watercool cpu v in development. Techn and Optimus is making the competition improve products. Probably better to hold cash for those blocks.


Thank you a lot guys. all of you who have replied to me.
I will therefore stick to HK upgrade kit and patiently wait for a new block. I saw EK LGA1700 block yesterday, looks large enough to cover socket area, or I am wrong


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Section31 said:


> With Optimus appearing to gone awol, it might be time to shut down this thread. Optimus can recreate one if they need to. I will let you guys have some input before i submit any requests to the mods.
> 
> Nonetheless it was good time here (despite all the drama). It kept many of us in the hobby and it was place to discuss the watercooling hobby and parts related to it. Some great commentary added by many of the users here.


leave it or change the title, this thread has become the high end build/wc thread.


----------



## criskoe

Mias well just keep this thread open. Save a constant flow of new threads open daily about Optimus and other BS. LOL... Its nice to be able to just watch one thread lol...


----------



## Biggu

So a buddy of mine came by over the weekend because his new 12900k was getting really warm and wanted to see if it was any better on water. Since I have a sig v2 block just laying around that ive never used along with some older radiators we decided to build a ghetto loop just for testing. 

It was really frustrating to find the hardware for mounting the water block down didn't want to thread into the hardware. its like the plating muched up the treads. one of the 4 thumb screws would thread all the way but the other 3 got maybe one to two threads in then seized. I found we could work them and I got 1 of them worked so It could thread all the way down and one seized then I said F it on the 3rd because the one that seized broke the treads. Now I gotta buy new hardware because of **** QC...


----------



## criskoe

@Section31 

So hows that Black Cerakote holding up? Can you even really see inside the block with that jizz fluid?


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> @Section31
> 
> So hows that Black Cerakote holding up? Can you even really see inside the block with that jizz fluid?


So far so good. It appears the same as usual lol.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> So a buddy of mine came by over the weekend because his new 12900k was getting really warm and wanted to see if it was any better on water. Since I have a sig v2 block just laying around that ive never used along with some older radiators we decided to build a ghetto loop just for testing.
> 
> It was really frustrating to find the hardware for mounting the water block down didn't want to thread into the hardware. its like the plating muched up the treads. one of the 4 thumb screws would thread all the way but the other 3 got maybe one to two threads in then seized. I found we could work them and I got 1 of them worked so It could thread all the way down and one seized then I said F it on the 3rd because the one that seized broke the treads. Now I gotta buy new hardware because of **** QC...


Sucks but at least Alderlake components (outside of ddr5 ram) is easy to get ahold of in general. No scalping etc.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Section31 said:


> Sucks but at least Alderlake components (outside of ddr5 ram) is easy to get ahold of in general. No scalping etc.


I hear you on that! It honestly took me by surprise a bit. I think it's funny how the 12900k is sold out in most places. I had received a 12700kf and now come the Z690 boards. I'm trying to track down boards with DDR4 though, since like you said DDR5 is nearly impossible to get. Companies don't have many kits to send out. I'm not trying too hard, since even in 3 months there will be much nicer spec'd DDR5 kits coming.

I'm ready to start waterblocking DDR5 more, though


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> I hear you on that! It honestly took me by surprise a bit. I think it's funny how the 12900k is sold out in most places. I had received a 12700kf and now come the Z690 boards. I'm trying to track down boards with DDR4 though, since like you said DDR5 is nearly impossible to get. Companies don't have many kits to send out. I'm not trying too hard, since even in 3 months there will be much nicer spec'd DDR5 kits coming.
> 
> I'm ready to start waterblocking DDR5 more, though


Fun idea. The non heatsink ram stays pretty cool based on my testing. It good option (if from amazon) to hold out till the samsung/hynix kits release.


----------



## cptclutch

Sorry if this is a stupid question but I'm thinking about swapping my 10th gen for 12th with my foundation block and was wondering about mounting. Can I just swap everything over no problem?


----------



## acoustic

cptclutch said:


> Sorry if this is a stupid question but I'm thinking about swapping my 10th gen for 12th with my foundation block and was wondering about mounting. Can I just swap everything over no problem?


With an ASUS board, yes. They have holes for LGA1200 so you can use the 1200 mounting kits/springs. Apparently it's not ideal (slight performance loss due to not having exact mounting pressure) but I see very good temps on my Heatkiller IV Pro with LGA1200 mount.


----------



## criskoe

Well that's interesting. I recently used up all my mayhems XT-1 Nuke V2 clear re filling my loop. Went to go buy some more to have on hand from a supplier up here in Canada and the listing was completely gone. So I reached out to to ask what was going on. The response I got was that Mayhems was sold to a new owner and was a bit of a mess. No other details but they are going to look at them again in the new year and then decide if its worth their time.

Interesting.

Wasn't really given any other details or what not. Could be many reasons so I don't want to speculate what "mess" means. But with that said I wonder if this will effect quality.

Did you guys know this?


----------



## acoustic

criskoe said:


> Well that's interesting. I recently used up all my mayhems XT-1 Nuke V2 clear re filling my loop. Went to go buy some more to have on hand from a supplier up here in Canada and the listing was completely gone. So I reached out to to ask what was going on. The response I got was that Mayhems was sold to a new owner and was a bit of a mess. No other details but they are going to look at them again in the new year and then decide if its worth their time.
> 
> Interesting.
> 
> Wasn't really given any other details or what not. Could be many reasons so I don't want to speculate what "mess" means. But with that said I wonder if this will effect quality.
> 
> Did you guys know this?


****! Sounds like I need to grab more XT-1 Nuke Clear ..


----------



## Edge0fsanity

criskoe said:


> Well that's interesting. I recently used up all my mayhems XT-1 Nuke V2 clear re filling my loop. Went to go buy some more to have on hand from a supplier up here in Canada and the listing was completely gone. So I reached out to to ask what was going on. The response I got was that Mayhems was sold to a new owner and was a bit of a mess. No other details but they are going to look at them again in the new year and then decide if its worth their time.
> 
> Interesting.
> 
> Wasn't really given any other details or what not. Could be many reasons so I don't want to speculate what "mess" means. But with that said I wonder if this will effect quality.
> 
> Did you guys know this?


Not surprised, thought things may fall apart when I heard it was sold. Guess it's time to stock up on x1, xt1 and dyes before the quality goes to ****.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

I was searching everywhere and couldn’t find any XT-1 V2 clear…finally found them on ModMyMods and thank god I ordered 5 just in case. Shipping wasn’t that bad to Toronto…thank god I bought more then I need. Was wondering how come nobody had it anymore?!

@criskoe was the supplier DAZMODE? 1st time I ordered from them,now it’s completely delisted.
They’re close by but are super cheap ****s honestly,I ordered stuff from them over 2k and he bitched about $5 shipping because it would’ve been out of his pocket. I ordered something and asked if he can put the second order together for faster shipping he was like “Maybe,it’ll be like $4 extra for shipping…” so I told him the 2k I gave you over a months period wasn’t enough ehhhh,here ill send you $20…buy your family food because apparently you’re bitching about $4 you need it desperately!
After that he didn’t want it but I sent him $20 so he wont starve,you know $4 is $4…


----------



## criskoe

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I was searching everywhere and couldn’t find any XT-1 V2 clear…finally found them on ModMyMods and thank god I ordered 5 just in case. Shipping wasn’t that bad to Toronto…thank god I bought more then I need. Was wondering how come nobody had it anymore?!
> 
> @criskoe was the supplier DAZMODE? 1st time I ordered from them,now it’s completely delisted.
> They’re close by but are super cheap ****s honestly,I ordered stuff from them over 2k and he bitched about $5 shipping because it would’ve been out of his pocket. I ordered something and asked if he can put the second order together for faster shipping he was like “Maybe,it’ll be like $4 extra for shipping…” so I told him the 2k I gave you over a months period wasn’t enough ehhhh,here ill send you $20…buy your family food because apparently you’re bitching about $4 you need it desperately!
> After that he didn’t want it but I sent him $20 so he wont starve,you know $4 is $4…


Yeah Daz shipping costs are a little weird. Im not sure how his system calculates it. But something is off. Some of his courier shipping quotes to westcoast canada are absolutely ridiculous. I forget what it was, but I needed a tiny item like one fitting or something and the shipping was like $20 for a parcel. I had asked if he could just send it in a letter envelope and I would take the risk of it being lost or damaged and was told a simple "nope". 

Just for giggles I just added one random stop plug to a cart to see the shipping costs and this is what I get. Its crazy... Like srsly. Look at the fedex and UPS costs... They cant be right. No way... Dont even know why he bother has them on there. No one in their right mind would use that.. Crazy part is the price increases over $20 for ups if I add just one more stop plug. LOL... Just ONE MORE. lol.. 












I dunno tho. Daz has always been good to me otherwise. Prices are OK. Has some good random things like fujy pads and such. Answers question fast and is strait to the point. No real order issues. But when it comes to money and shipping he dont play. LOL... hahahahaha... Ive learnt that when ordering from him. Make sure to get everything you may possibly need in one shot. Dont miss anything. LOL...


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

criskoe said:


> Yeah Daz shipping costs are a little weird. Im not sure how his system calculates it. But something is off. Some of his courier shipping quotes to westcoast canada are absolutely ridiculous. I forget what it was, but I needed a tiny item like one fitting or something and the shipping was like $20 for a parcel. I had asked if he could just send it in a letter envelope and I would take the risk of it being lost or damaged and was told a simple "nope".
> 
> Just for giggles I just added one random stop plug to a cart to see the shipping costs and this is what I get. Its crazy... Like srsly. Look at the fedex and UPS costs... They cant be right. No way... Dont even know why he bother has them on there. No one in their right mind would use that.. Crazy part is the price increases over $20 for ups if I add just one more stop plug. LOL... Just ONE MORE. lol..
> 
> I dunno tho. Daz has always been good to me otherwise. Prices are OK. Has some good random things like fujy pads and such. Answers question fast and is strait to the point. No real order issues. But when it comes to money and shipping he dont play. LOL... hahahahaha... Ive learnt that when ordering from him. Make sure to get everything you may possibly need in one shot. Dont miss anything. LOL...



He’s one of those smartasses making money off of shipping,charges you $20 but pays $10…I can’t stand cheap ****s like him,you spend in a month 2k+ and he’s being tight over $4. *** would you even mention that to a customer like me,I get if I bought 1 item and you never saw me but dude I’ve spent over 2k and you are bitching over $4 extra which I payed 50x how much you charge!

Next time my 2k will go in someone else’s pocket,you literally lost a customer over $4 guess that’s that North American tightness. You can be a customer for 500 years and spend 50mil yearly but you know $4 is $4 and we can’t miss you not paying that.
I can buy from EK,pay full shipping (highest and fastest) and yet it’ll be like $60-80 cheaper then DAZ,not like he isn’t making more then enough already.


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> He’s one of those smartasses making money off of shipping,charges you $20 but pays $10…I can’t stand cheap ***s like him,you spend in a month 2k+ and he’s being tight over $4. ** would you even mention that to a customer like me,I get if I bought 1 item and you never saw me but dude I’ve spent over 2k and you are bitching over $4 extra which I payed 50x how much you charge!
> 
> Next time my 2k will go in someone else’s pocket,you literally lost a customer over $4 guess that’s that North American tightness. You can be a customer for 500 years and spend 50mil yearly but you know $4 is $4 and we can’t miss you not paying that.
> I can buy from EK,pay full shipping (highest and fastest) and yet it’ll be like $60-80 cheaper then DAZ,not like he isn’t making more then enough already.


If you’re buying enough gear, performance pcs is usually cheaper with a discount code. And much better customer service and shipping times. Dazmode prices are high and customer service isn’t great because the owner doesn’t know what the word means. He puts threats on his website of not giving you any warranty or return/exchange for defective units if you’re “too lazy to make an account.” And various other oddities.

Edit: looks like the “lazy” part was removed from the statement. Everything else stands.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Yep I get a cart going at Daz and then get to shipping, I just cancel it after that to be honest.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

That was the 1st thing that put me off the arrogance on his website about the returns and how he worded it like he’s the final boss…but I waited so long for my Optimus strix block and some rads that I just bought what would arrive the fastest. Thinking about it now ppcs was a great experience,ordered afterwards 4 times from them and it arrived everytime in 2 days. Once they made a mistake and immediately emailed me and gave me a discount of 25%…I’m still fairly new to this watercooling stuff so I wasn’t familiar with every website,but now after 7-8 months I know who’ll get my money and who won’t.

DAZMODE - piss poor prices/piss poor attitude

OPTIMUS - TOP products/worse then piss poor everything else

PPCS - good guy in this whole story

TITANRIG - nothing to complain about so far

SECTION31 - Good guy/piss poor online buddy always comes with random stuff to buy or tells me to check out. He alone cost me $2k+ on stuff I wouldn’t have bought if he didn’t randomly appear in my dm’s “hey,did you see this new…might be worth buying”
*** 😂🤣 (jk’ing ofc…continue making me buy stuff that isn’t cheap)


----------



## criskoe

I really wish PPCS didnt stop using fedex. They were the best rate/fastest shipping option for me. If it made the courier by 3pm. I would actually have the stuff next day here in BC...


----------



## geriatricpollywog

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> That was the 1st thing that put me off the arrogance on his website about the returns and how he worded it like he’s the final boss…but I waited so long for my Optimus strix block and some rads that I just bought what would arrive the fastest. Thinking about it now ppcs was a great experience,ordered afterwards 4 times from them and it arrived everytime in 2 days. Once they made a mistake and immediately emailed me and gave me a discount of 25%…I’m still fairly new to this watercooling stuff so I wasn’t familiar with every website,but now after 7-8 months I know who’ll get my money and who won’t.
> 
> DAZMODE - piss poor prices/piss poor attitude
> 
> OPTIMUS - TOP products/worse then piss poor everything else
> 
> PPCS - good guy in this whole story
> 
> TITANRIG - nothing to complain about so far
> 
> SECTION31 - Good guy/piss poor online buddy always comes with random stuff to buy or tells me to check out. He alone cost me $2k+ on stuff I wouldn’t have bought if he didn’t randomly appear in my dm’s “hey,did you see this new…might be worth buying”
> *** 😂🤣 (jk’ing ofc…continue making me buy stuff that isn’t cheap)


I would add Watercool to the list of good guys. Orders from Germany take less than a week to arrive and they subsidize all shipping to the US and Canada since we’re the 2 greatest countries in the world.


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> OPTIMUS - TOP products/worse then piss poor everything else


What are these “products” you’re talking about?


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Well that's interesting. I recently used up all my mayhems XT-1 Nuke V2 clear re filling my loop. Went to go buy some more to have on hand from a supplier up here in Canada and the listing was completely gone. So I reached out to to ask what was going on. The response I got was that Mayhems was sold to a new owner and was a bit of a mess. No other details but they are going to look at them again in the new year and then decide if its worth their time.
> 
> Interesting.
> 
> Wasn't really given any other details or what not. Could be many reasons so I don't want to speculate what "mess" means. But with that said I wonder if this will effect quality.
> 
> Did you guys know this?


Same. Mayhem changed owners. Bit of mess to me. I couldn’t find any mayhem white anymore except xtr 4nm. So my friend had to buy ekwb cloud white.

I am planning to move to ekwb white cloud long term as i don’t want to pay xtr 4nm prices anymore.


----------



## Section31

Edge0fsanity said:


> Not surprised, thought things may fall apart when I heard it was sold. Guess it's time to stock up on x1, xt1 and dyes before the quality goes to ****.


Good luck. Already hard to find. I had to swap over my friend to ekwb. I even am going to move over to ekwb white.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> I really wish PPCS didnt stop using fedex. They were the best rate/fastest shipping option for me. If it made the courier by 3pm. I would actually have the stuff next day here in BC...


Transportation screwed up here. Fedex was good i agree but i prefer titanrigs now. Usps option and 2weeks with generally no taxes.

Modmymods is best for aquacomputer stuff up here unless you have enough you need to order direct from aquacomputer germany.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> That was the 1st thing that put me off the arrogance on his website about the returns and how he worded it like he’s the final boss…but I waited so long for my Optimus strix block and some rads that I just bought what would arrive the fastest. Thinking about it now ppcs was a great experience,ordered afterwards 4 times from them and it arrived everytime in 2 days. Once they made a mistake and immediately emailed me and gave me a discount of 25%…I’m still fairly new to this watercooling stuff so I wasn’t familiar with every website,but now after 7-8 months I know who’ll get my money and who won’t.
> 
> DAZMODE - piss poor prices/piss poor attitude
> 
> OPTIMUS - TOP products/worse then piss poor everything else
> 
> PPCS - good guy in this whole story
> 
> TITANRIG - nothing to complain about so far
> 
> SECTION31 - Good guy/piss poor online buddy always comes with random stuff to buy or tells me to check out. He alone cost me $2k+ on stuff I wouldn’t have bought if he didn’t randomly appear in my dm’s “hey,did you see this new…might be worth buying”
> *** 😂🤣 (jk’ing ofc…continue making me buy stuff that isn’t cheap)


It’s just enuthiast talk. If you don’t need it, please don’t impulse buy. We all have budgets, etc we need to be aware of.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> If you’re buying enough gear, performance pcs is usually cheaper with a discount code. And much better customer service and shipping times. Dazmode prices are high and customer service isn’t great because the owner doesn’t know what the word means. He puts threats on his website of not giving you any warranty or return/exchange for defective units if you’re “too lazy to make an account.” And various other oddities.
> 
> Edit: looks like the “lazy” part was removed from the statement. Everything else stands.


Buying waterparts in canada always pain in the butt. There’s no one vendors suits all. Nor do they carry everything you need. Got to do lot of price comparisons. I always spilt in multiple orders from different stores nowadays to get everything working out.

I will say titanrigs upcoming black friday sales looks good (low inventory though). My friend might buy from them as result (crazy good deals on alphacool/corsair). However shipping prices are hell to BC atm.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> ****! Sounds like I need to grab more XT-1 Nuke Clear ..


Already hard to find. I was looking for that stuff month ago (alternative to white pastel). Preferred Titan Rig but Only dazmode carried it. Sounds like sold out there now.


----------



## criskoe

ModMyMods has some instock. I just ordered some and stocked up just incase. Shipping was a bit more then id like considering I'm just buying coolant and don't need anything else at the moment but I got enough to last a nice long while. The five year shelf life helps.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> ModMyMods has some instock. I just ordered some and stocked up just incase. Shipping was a bit more then id like considering I'm just buying coolant and don't need anything else at the moment but I got enough to last a nice long while. The five year shelf life helps.


Great to know.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

criskoe said:


> ModMyMods has some instock. I just ordered some and stocked up just incase. Shipping was a bit more then id like considering I'm just buying coolant and don't need anything else at the moment but I got enough to last a nice long while. The five year shelf life helps.


Just put in an order with them for every mayhems dye and enough fluid to last through 5 years of builds. 1 less thing to worry about down the road.


----------



## Section31

Edge0fsanity said:


> Just put in an order with them for every mayhems dye and enough fluid to last through 5 years of builds. 1 less thing to worry about down the road.


Smart. They discontinued lot of there lineup couple months ago. It was mentioned on there thread here. Apparently they were updating the whole lineup at that time of selling the business. Guess we won’t see Hades launch. Unfortunate what happened.

Me and Shawnb99 were talking about it as we were both after mayham xtr 4nm but never predicted it would be so ugly.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Was looking to get a new Aquacomputer Octo because the last update (x47) bricked this one and my fans/pumps are always running 100%. Aquacomputer solution is to go flash the firmware again on a different pc,apparently should fix it but none of my buddies has a molex cable,guys have nothing and I doubt flashing firmware on a different pc will fix it. What’s the difference between new or old pc,either it flashes or it’s bricked?!
Plus taking stuff out of someone elses pc and later he gets 1 crash randomly it’ll be “Immediately after you touched my pc it’s crashing,I knew you’d damage something”…trying to avoid **** like that.

So thought I’d get a new one from aquatuning usa,ehhhh guess not…$72usd+$9usd canada tax+$15usd canada customs tax+$58usd shipping (seriously $58usd ***)…ehmmm $200cad for a stinking device with 8 usb probes and a couple of sensors that cost $15 to make,if even! **** off

Thing lasted 3 months and already bricked,useless crap like 90% of the stuff companies are making now. A **** ton of people are having connection issues on their forum but it’s everything else except their product,either it’s a bad usb connection (somehow after 3 months not touching it it disconnected by itself?),damaged cable,motherboard issue,dark entities played with it etc etc…but never AquaComputer’s fault


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Was looking to get a new Aquacomputer Octo because the last update (x47) bricked this one and my fans/pumps are always running 100%. Aquacomputer solution is to go flash the firmware again on a different pc,apparently should fix it but none of my buddies has a molex cable,guys have nothing and I doubt flashing firmware on a different pc will fix it. What’s the difference between new or old pc,either it flashes or it’s bricked?!
> Plus taking stuff out of someone elses pc and later he gets 1 crash randomly it’ll be “Immediately after you touched my pc it’s crashing,I knew you’d damage something”…trying to avoid **** like that.
> 
> So thought I’d get a new one from aquatuning usa,ehhhh guess not…$72usd+$9usd canada tax+$15usd canada customs tax+$58usd shipping (seriously $58usd *)…ehmmm $200cad for a stinking device with 8 usb probes and a couple of sensors that cost $15 to make,if even! ** off
> 
> Thing lasted 3 months and already bricked,useless crap like 90% of the stuff companies are making now. A **** ton of people are having connection issues on their forum but it’s everything else except their product,either it’s a bad usb connection (somehow after 3 months not touching it it disconnected by itself?),damaged cable,motherboard issue,dark entities played with it etc etc…but never AquaComputer’s fault


Couple of us have noticed aquacomputer qc gone down over last while. In regards to it, i would target backorder at modmymods (use usps) if your price concerned. It's only 1-2weeks wait but with USPS option of 15-20usd and no taxes, its very cheap. Dazmode is last resort but they do have restocks. 

Aquatuning shipping fee has always been ridiculous lol. I have looked at them couple times for purchases but everytime i endup going to manufacturer direct or to modmymods or ppcs. Even with free shipping options at couple hundred usd, it wasn't worth it.


----------



## HyperMatrix

I would target backorder at modmymods (use usps) if your price concerned. It's only 1-2weeks wait but with USPS option of 15-20usd and no taxes, its very cheap. 
[/QUOTE]

This is not guaranteed. I ordered from ModMyMods in June. Chose USPS shipping. Took 2-3 weeks for delivery. AND I ended up having to pay taxes. Because they didn't ship it with USPS directly. They sent it with "UPS Economy Mail Innovations" which has UPS grab the mail from them, take it and give it to USPS, which then ship it off to Canada and transfer it to Canada Post. Something about the way the handover and paperwork from UPS -> USPS occurs caused there to be brokerage/taxes on it.


----------



## chibi

^ that's hit or miss in my experience. I've had a few shipments from them like that, 2/3 did not get the duty fee. Same deal with the UPS->USPS hand over.


----------



## jura11

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Was looking to get a new Aquacomputer Octo because the last update (x47) bricked this one and my fans/pumps are always running 100%. Aquacomputer solution is to go flash the firmware again on a different pc,apparently should fix it but none of my buddies has a molex cable,guys have nothing and I doubt flashing firmware on a different pc will fix it. What’s the difference between new or old pc,either it flashes or it’s bricked?!
> Plus taking stuff out of someone elses pc and later he gets 1 crash randomly it’ll be “Immediately after you touched my pc it’s crashing,I knew you’d damage something”…trying to avoid **** like that.
> 
> So thought I’d get a new one from aquatuning usa,ehhhh guess not…$72usd+$9usd canada tax+$15usd canada customs tax+$58usd shipping (seriously $58usd *)…ehmmm $200cad for a stinking device with 8 usb probes and a couple of sensors that cost $15 to make,if even! ** off
> 
> Thing lasted 3 months and already bricked,useless crap like 90% of the stuff companies are making now. A **** ton of people are having connection issues on their forum but it’s everything else except their product,either it’s a bad usb connection (somehow after 3 months not touching it it disconnected by itself?),damaged cable,motherboard issue,dark entities played with it etc etc…but never AquaComputer’s fault


That's probably I'm using older Aquacomputer Aquasuite I think I'm on older X43 or something like that

To the date didn't have one USB disconnection and my Aquacomputer Aquaero and Quadro went through X99 to X570 now and no issues 

Regarding the QC of Aquacomputer, recently I replaced my Aquacomputer Kryos NEXT for Bykski CPU-RYZEN-X-MC and with Kryos NEXT temperatures been in high 70's and been touching 80°C and with Bykski CPU-RYZEN-X-MC my temperatures won't go beyond 72°C in CB23 and CPU pulls 240-250W with motherboard limits

Same applies seems like Aquacomputer Kryographics for RTX 3090 is not the best too 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I would target backorder at modmymods (use usps) if your price concerned. It's only 1-2weeks wait but with USPS option of 15-20usd and no taxes, its very cheap.


This is not guaranteed. I ordered from ModMyMods in June. Chose USPS shipping. Took 2-3 weeks for delivery. AND I ended up having to pay taxes. Because they didn't ship it with USPS directly. They sent it with "UPS Economy Mail Innovations" which has UPS grab the mail from them, take it and give it to USPS, which then ship it off to Canada and transfer it to Canada Post. Something about the way the handover and paperwork from UPS -> USPS occurs caused there to be brokerage/taxes on it.
[/QUOTE]

I am not sure how it works honestly but occasionally you get dinged even using ups economy mail innovator. My experience is similar to chibi maybe once in a while through usps do i get taxes and that was for two farbwerk360 (was large package). I got aquacomputer ultitube, d5 next and whenever involving fittings/small parts no taxes due. Similar case with titanrigs though i haven’t ordered rads/blocks from them before.

If you are ordering blocks or rads you will get taxes generally. So its some sort of combination of value and size of package from my experience. Small packages get through but if its large, 100% will be taxed.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Guess the best solution to get my OCTO here as fast as possible is to buy from Amazon,once it arrives you take the new unit and connect everything nicely and the old bricked unit goes back into the box with a nice refund from amazon.

EDIT : 😔 damn,not even amazon both cad nor us has a OCTO currently available…this is truly a sad day. My 12 fans are running at 100% so imagine a phanteks t-30 hammering with 3000rpm cold air into your face 😢
Whole world is going to **** honestly


----------



## Section31

jura11 said:


> That's probably I'm using older Aquacomputer Aquasuite I think I'm on older X43 or something like that
> 
> To the date didn't have one USB disconnection and my Aquacomputer Aquaero and Quadro went through X99 to X570 now and no issues
> 
> Regarding the QC of Aquacomputer, recently I replaced my Aquacomputer Kryos NEXT for Bykski CPU-RYZEN-X-MC and with Kryos NEXT temperatures been in high 70's and been touching 80°C and with Bykski CPU-RYZEN-X-MC my temperatures won't go beyond 72°C in CB23 and CPU pulls 240-250W with motherboard limits
> 
> Same applies seems like Aquacomputer Kryographics for RTX 3090 is not the best too
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Wonder whats going on. Eventually even i am swapping away from aquacomputer d5 next myself. The controller and high flow/next flow sensor are where aquacomputer is still top.

The d5 next is fragile lol. I had the bottom lid glue dry up and it falls out at times and i have managed to damage the oled controller screen/fry one of its button too.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Guess the best solution to get my OCTO here as fast as possible is to buy from Amazon,once it arrives you take the new unit and connect everything nicely and the old bricked unit goes back into the box with a nice refund from amazon.
> 
> EDIT : 😔 damn,not even amazon both cad nor us has a OCTO currently available…this is truly a sad day. My 12 fans are running at 100% so imagine a phanteks t-30 hammering with 3000rpm cold air into your face 😢
> Whole world is going to **** honestly


Yup. Turn the manual switch to 2000rpm max. Actually the fastest if aquacomputer has stock is get from them. Dhl of flat 40euro shipping though. Only works if ordering more stuff.

Also likely won’t be any taxes on it as it within the amount for eu-canada free trade agreement. 

Could see if aquacomputer can fit that thing into an envelope and use there 10euro shipping. I tried that for ultitube multitop and it should fit an octo controller (no box). Even the replacement next flow sensor came in the regular mail package (took one week only).

Contact Sven and see what he can do. Last time this happened to shawnb99, he got replacement sent from aquacomputer.


----------



## criskoe

I really like my Aquaero lt6. Never had any issues with it over the years. Just works. Knock on wood.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> I really like my Aquaero lt6. Never had any issues with it over the years. Just works. Knock on wood.


Its there more recent stuff. Some issues on there blocks, bricking of devices on aquasuite and you cant use more than 16awg sata power cables on d5 oled controller. Shawnb99 broke the sata power connector on the oled controller.

Whenever optimus glass reservoir comes out, i am replacing the aquacomputer ultitube. It’s an good value reservoir but i have my minor issues with it tbh. Among them is for some of my friends install i ended up not using the original mounting screws. I ended up digging out different length screws and using nuts to properly secure it.

Watercool tube is better quality but its not so easy to maintain (say i want to access pump, i got to drain and take apart everything).


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> Its there more recent stuff. Some issues on there blocks, bricking of devices on aquasuite and you cant use more than 16awg sata power cables on d5 oled controller. Shawnb99 broke the sata power connector on the oled controller.


That wire gauge situation is so weird.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> That wire gauge situation is so weird.


The way my reservoir top is orientated is not planned. It’s at it max tightness to prevent leaking. Fortunate it works out with my planned loop.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

I messaged this SVEN guy,lets see what he says. I asked for an exchange or atleast ship it so it won’t cost 40euro’s for a 35g item.
Effing manufacturer charging ridiculous prices and every product breaks after 2-3 months. Had a brand new Razer pro click mouse and not even 2.5 months in battery dead,complete breakdown. Go on www and a bunch of customers saying there’s died to after 2-3 months???**** that,ordered a new one from amazon again and just took the new one and put the broke one back and git my money back. Piss off,not even 3 months and i’m suppossed to go back and forth with razer customer service for 3 weeks with bs steps,to then wait another 6 weeks to get it RMA’d,yea def no. Want to play stupid games I can do it,too!


----------



## criskoe

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I messaged this SVEN guy,lets see what he says. I asked for an exchange or atleast ship it so it won’t cost 40euro’s for a 35g item.
> Effing manufacturer charging ridiculous prices and every product breaks after 2-3 months. Had a brand new Razer pro click mouse and not even 2.5 months in battery dead,complete breakdown. Go on www and a bunch of customers saying there’s died to after 2-3 months???**** that,ordered a new one from amazon again and just took the new one and put the broke one back and git my money back. Piss off,not even 3 months and i’m suppossed to go back and forth with razer customer service for 3 weeks with bs steps,to then wait another 6 weeks to get it RMA’d,yea def no. Want to play stupid games I can do it,too!


Sven ships me small items using the regular post many times. Takes a little while but does come. Bought a high flow next for a buddy recently and the freight was only 8 euro.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Sven ships me small items using the regular post many times. Takes a little while but does come. Bought a high flow next for a buddy recently and the freight was only 8 euro.


Nice to know another one of the canadian watercoolers who buys direct from europe. Very few i know go that route.


----------



## iamjanco

Sven goes by Shoggy here on OCN, but I don't think he's been active here for quite some time now.


----------



## acoustic

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I messaged this SVEN guy,lets see what he says. I asked for an exchange or atleast ship it so it won’t cost 40euro’s for a 35g item.
> Effing manufacturer charging ridiculous prices and every product breaks after 2-3 months. Had a brand new Razer pro click mouse and not even 2.5 months in battery dead,complete breakdown. Go on www and a bunch of customers saying there’s died to after 2-3 months???**** that,ordered a new one from amazon again and just took the new one and put the broke one back and git my money back. Piss off,not even 3 months and i’m suppossed to go back and forth with razer customer service for 3 weeks with bs steps,to then wait another 6 weeks to get it RMA’d,yea def no. Want to play stupid games I can do it,too!


Man you're really proud of doing some dirtbag **** for some reason..


----------



## doox00

Anyone know the status of current orders for cpu and gpu blocks with Optimus? Have approximate ship dates been given?


----------



## Section31

doox00 said:


> Anyone know the status of current orders for cpu and gpu blocks with Optimus? Have approximate ship dates been given?


Go by there website or email them


----------



## doox00

Section31 said:


> Go by there website or email them


I have not been able to find dates on their website. I just checked again and nothing, decided to disable ad blocker and sure enough, window with shipping dates shows up. Also, I did contact them last week, have not heard back yet.


----------



## Section31

doox00 said:


> I have not been able to find dates on their website. I just checked again and nothing, decided to disable ad blocker and sure enough, window with shipping dates shows up. Also, I did contact them last week, have not heard back yet.


Optimus Customer Support is like that. Takes them time to reply. Customer Service is not Optimus Strong Point.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

acoustic said:


> Man you're really proud of doing some dirtbag **** for some reason..


Ahhh the I’ll let everyone drag me around but I’ll be the nice guy type
But it’s not a dirtbag move selling units that go broke after 2-3 months ehhh,that’s fine in your opinion? Razer‘s double click issue since back a couple of years,logitech the same ****…

So it’s ok that I payed $130 for a mouse that died after 2.5 months,Razer knows about the issue but won’t do ****. So I’m supposed to wait 2+ months and going back and forth 50 times with Razer to get a new one?

This world isn’t about you thinking you’re doing the right thing,every company is ****ing you from every side but you think if you stay nice it’ll change.
Here best example Optimus,were are they now? Dead silent again,but ofc you sucked it up that you or anyone are fine waiting 7 months. Every week it’s “going to be shipped by end of this week”.
How low do you have to sink to tell yourself “I’m fine waiting 7 months,it’s optimus” guess suck it up and shut up or do something that’s when it’ll change,you telling yourself I’m the nice guy I’ll do what I think is right won’t change **** buddy,but you do you ofc

Quite honestly I didn’t feel proud or not proud…just got what I payed for and next time in 2-3 months if it happens I’ll do it again!


----------



## acoustic

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Ahhh the I’ll let everyone drag me around but I’ll be the nice guy type
> But it’s not a dirtbag move selling units that go broke after 2-3 months ehhh,that’s fine in your opinion? Razer‘s double click issue since back a couple of years,logitech the same ****…
> 
> So it’s ok that I payed $130 for a mouse that died after 2.5 months,Razer knows about the issue but won’t do ****. So I’m supposed to wait 2+ months and going back and forth 50 times with Razer to get a new one?
> 
> This world isn’t about you thinking you’re doing the right thing,every company is ****ing you from every side but you think if you stay nice it’ll change.
> Here best example Optimus,were are they now? Dead silent again,but ofc you sucked it up that you or anyone are fine waiting 7 months. Every week it’s “going to be shipped by end of this week”.
> How low do you have to sink to tell yourself “I’m fine waiting 7 months,it’s optimus” guess suck it up and shut up or do something that’s when it’ll change,you telling yourself I’m the nice guy I’ll do what I think is right won’t change **** buddy,but you do you ofc
> 
> Quite honestly I didn’t feel proud or not proud…just got what I payed for and next time in 2-3 months if it happens I’ll do it again!


It's one thing to do what you're doing but gloating about it is ****ing stupid. If you have a lack of ethics then that's fine but be ready to get called out for it.

I own zero Optimus products and I'm glad people have woke up and started cancelling their orders -- that's the only way they'll change. You are far worse than me for supporting them .. maybe you should take some notes before you try accusing me of that ****.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

acoustic said:


> It's one thing to do what you're doing but gloating about it is ****ing stupid. If you have a lack of ethics then that's fine but be ready to get called out for it.
> 
> I own zero Optimus products and I'm glad people have woke up and started cancelling their orders -- that's the only way they'll change. You are far worse than me for supporting them .. maybe you should take some notes before you try accusing me of that ****.


Your opinion about ethics is just that,your opinion!
Who are you to talk about anyone’s ethics or any of us for that matter?

What you think is right or wrong is your opinion same as I have mine,let every company **** you over but I’m tired slowly of it. 
Spend $130 to us it for 2.5 months and then let the fun begin going back and forth with them and stupid “did you unplug it and plug it back in?””so so sorry for the inconvenience etc etc…”

I’m the first one to say I came somewhat late and didn’t see the full picture of Optimus and some other companies. Yes,I did buy the strix block and other stuff but that was it! I wanted a lot more stuff but seeing the crap they’re pulling I’m def done with them.
It’s sad seeing so many on twitter asking (with right) what’s going on Optimus is dead silent,literally a slap in the face “**** you”…many don’t even know this thread exists,so they only have twitter and in 2 months 2 stupid pictures of a non existing block and empty promises.

Have absolutely zero tolerance for crap like that,you think you’re smart making products last 2 months,fine no problem I can play stupid games to.

That’s my opinion as said above,you do what you think is right


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Your opinion about ethics is just that,your opinion!
> Who are you to talk about anyone’s ethics or any of us for that matter?
> 
> What you think is right or wrong is your opinion same as I have mine,let every company **** you over but I’m tired slowly of it.
> Spend $130 to us it for 2.5 months and then let the fun begin going back and forth with them and stupid “did you unplug it and plug it back in?””so so sorry for the inconvenience etc etc…”
> 
> I’m the first one to say I came somewhat late and didn’t see the full picture of Optimus and some other companies. Yes,I did buy the strix block and other stuff but that was it! I wanted a lot more stuff but seeing the crap they’re pulling I’m def done with them.
> It’s sad seeing so many on twitter asking (with right) what’s going on Optimus is dead silent,literally a slap in the face “**** you”…many don’t even know this thread exists,so they only have twitter and in 2 months 2 stupid pictures of a non existing block and empty promises.
> 
> Have absolutely zero tolerance for crap like that,you think you’re smart making products last 2 months,fine no problem I can play stupid games to.
> 
> That’s my opinion as said above,you do what you think is right


This hobby, rarely is anyone opinion wrong just you got to be respectful to others. I expect nothing less of Forestwhitakersgoodeye. After you seen enough of his usual commentary, you don't really pay too much attention to it.


----------



## HyperMatrix

I'm not condoning nor am I condemning the behavior. But if a product is returned as defective to Amazon, it is sent back to the manufacturer or is otherwise rebated by the manufacturer. Amazon loses nothing. Only the manufacturer does. And if the product is under manufacturer's warranty when you do this, then I don't see it as being a particularly heinous act. Because the manufacturer is still responsible for ensuring you have a functional unit for the stated warranty period. You paid a premium price for a product from a company, that is not resolving quality control issues in a reasonable amount of time. So if someone here has to take a hit...should it be the customer, or the manufacturer of the overpriced item? Well...the manufacturer was already going to take the hit for it. The only difference is the matter of the amount of time it takes. 

I'll give you another case. Microsoft originally sold the Xbox Elite Controller for $230 CAD and only offered a 90 day warranty on it. So more than half the price of a brand new console. And just 90 days warranty. And you wouldn't really know that as you expect almost anything you buy to have at least a 12 month warranty. And you certainly wouldn't expect to buy one of the most expensive products in its category....and only have it guaranteed to work for 90 days. Would a person be evil for doing a swap if their controller broke 4 months after purchasing it, and then realizing that it wasn't covered for 12+ months like every other item you buy? Or is Microsoft evil for having that kind of policy in place for a premium product in the first place? Or how about you buy the controller...and after a year, the swap-able thumb sticks that were advertised...the rubber grip texture on them wears out. So you try to buy a replacement and see they don't sell any. So you contact Microsoft and ask them to sell you the thumb sticks. Just the magnetic stick on ones that comes with it. This isn't some right to repair argument. But they say no. They can't send anything. And you need to send in your controller for paid warranty repair...even though your controller doesn't need repairs...you just need the $1 thumb sticks...even if they charge you $10 or $20 for them...So again I ask...in this situation...should the customer take the hit? Or should Microsoft? 

Some things are really gray areas. This would be one of them, in my opinion. We don't have strong enough consumer protection laws in North America. All of these companies are operating under more favorable conditions for consumers in Europe right now, and are doing so profitably. And while it's nearly impossible to try to take them to court for certain policies, not just due to current laws, but also due to costs, I can see consumers taking steps to mitigate the loss they would take, when they themselves are not at fault.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I'm not condoning nor am I condemning the behavior. But if a product is returned as defective to Amazon, it is sent back to the manufacturer or is otherwise rebated by the manufacturer. Amazon loses nothing. Only the manufacturer does. And if the product is under manufacturer's warranty when you do this, then I don't see it as being a particularly heinous act. Because the manufacturer is still responsible for ensuring you have a functional unit for the stated warranty period. You paid a premium price for a product from a company, that is not resolving quality control issues in a reasonable amount of time. So if someone here has to take a hit...should it be the customer, or the manufacturer of the overpriced item? Well...the manufacturer was already going to take the hit for it. The only difference is the matter of the amount of time it takes.
> 
> I'll give you another case. Microsoft originally sold the Xbox Elite Controller for $230 CAD and only offered a 90 day warranty on it. So more than half the price of a brand new console. And just 90 days warranty. And you wouldn't really know that as you expect almost anything you buy to have at least a 12 month warranty. And you certainly wouldn't expect to buy one of the most expensive products in its category....and only have it guaranteed to work for 90 days. Would a person be evil for doing a swap if their controller broke 4 months after purchasing it, and then realizing that it wasn't covered for 12+ months like every other item you buy? Or is Microsoft evil for having that kind of policy in place for a premium product in the first place? Or how about you buy the controller...and after a year, the swap-able thumb sticks that were advertised...the rubber grip texture on them wears out. So you try to buy a replacement and see they don't sell any. So you contact Microsoft and ask them to sell you the thumb sticks. Just the magnetic stick on ones that comes with it. This isn't some right to repair argument. But they say no. They can't send anything. And you need to send in your controller for paid warranty repair...even though your controller doesn't need repairs...you just need the $1 thumb sticks...even if they charge you $10 or $20 for them...So again I ask...in this situation...should the customer take the hit? Or should Microsoft?
> 
> Some things are really gray areas. This would be one of them, in my opinion. We don't have strong enough consumer protection laws in North America. All of these companies are operating under more favorable conditions for consumers in Europe right now, and are doing so profitably. And while it's nearly impossible to try to take them to court for certain policies, not just due to current laws, but also due to costs, I can see consumers taking steps to mitigate the loss they would take, when they themselves are not at fault.


Well said there.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

@HyperMatrix 

My brother bought a brand new Playstation 5 and guess what,after 1.5 months the controller broke. The vibrating thing on one side is lose,fell off and is wobbling inside. Now have fun getting a new one with the customer service,quite frankly I don’t (well he but I wouldn’t either) want to bother with stupid CS with every new product after 1-3 months.

But as long as we’re silent why would they change anything? We were trained like dogs to always “do the right thing”,let everyone step on you but you be nice and polite. 
Look where we are now,manufacturer’s selling you some **** ram,psu or other crap with your GPU to squeeze the last bit out of you. 
So how did it go doing the right thing? All they see is idiots now nothing else.
Prime example OPTIMUS here,this isn’t even funny anymore…what they are doing is completely disgusting towards all of us. I don’t need it (KPE block) nor will I buy anything every again from them but it hurts me because if I would’ve bought it I’d be in the same boat!
But here example SECTION31,10 people are talking about OPTIMUS he comes and “Thank you OPTIMUS,I appreciate all you do and when will you make this or that,I’m willing to try it out etc etc…”
You doing that is the issue everyone is facing,it went so far that they now go silent for weeks and yet again you’ll have guys here coming at you because he gets 15% off or gets something 2-3 days before you/me or anyone.
God forbid if you mention OPTIMUS in anyway bad,it must be nice things or shut up..tell that to the guy in a poorer country waiting for months already and all he has is once a month a crappy pic…must be nice for him ehhh,he doesn’t even know this forum exists so twitter is his only source.


So to protect myself,my money and most importantly not being made a fool I’ll do stuff like this! At the end of the day I payed for it I didn’t get it for free,you didn’t do/make what you promised so I absolutely have no issue doing it.


@Section31 

Find it quite funny when others say **** to me or others that say anything against your beloved OPTIMUS,like shawn told me to **** off or anyone in that matter how you never tell them to be nice/respectful because my OPTIMUS opinion doesn’t fit your narrative here so you side with them and just skip that part always?!
You asslicking OPTIMUS and thinking because they give you a ****ty 10-15% discount they don’t give a crap about you buddy,you protecting them here at every corner doesn’t do any good for them or any customer. If you wanted this to be a “WE LOVE OPTIMUS THREAD” say so but you siding with the side that only talks positive about them because that fits your narrative isn’t the way bud…just saying when you read through the last couple of months the sentiment for OPTIMUS is getting worse and worse. That means people aren’t happy what they are doing so I’m not sure what’s your point in coming in here every time OPTIMUS writes a 3 sentence crap excuse that you write a love letter how you appreciate them???
Plus don’t come with “after you’ve seen his usual commentary”,you know me well SECTION and that I’m pretty chill. I’m European and my way of talking is not what you guys are used to,but that doesnt mean I’m some idiot and to ignor me like you like to say. 
Ohhh almost forgot….you know what you do on reddit with people,so don’t come in here acting like a angel because you aren’t!


I’m not picking on anyone nor want to troll any of you. It’s sad to see that you guys payed so much and you have nothing except misleading times,crap excuses and silence.
I was in the same boat with the strix block but not nearly as bad as this. Tho I had some longer issue regarding my reservoir at the very beginning with them,so me mentioning OPTIMUS is not “I got my block **** you guys”…
I’m not even sure how they got to the point of blatantly ignoring customer’s ,how did you put in your head that this behaviour is ok and charging these prices? Is it cockiness,is it there’s to many idiots they suck up everything? but man OPTIMUS really set a whole new level of idgaf about our customers.
Atleast other manufacturers give you that halfassed “sorry for the inconvenience “ 🥲


----------



## JustinThyme

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Was looking to get a new Aquacomputer Octo because the last update (x47) bricked this one and my fans/pumps are always running 100%. Aquacomputer solution is to go flash the firmware again on a different pc,apparently should fix it but none of my buddies has a molex cable,guys have nothing and I doubt flashing firmware on a different pc will fix it. What’s the difference between new or old pc,either it flashes or it’s bricked?!
> Plus taking stuff out of someone elses pc and later he gets 1 crash randomly it’ll be “Immediately after you touched my pc it’s crashing,I knew you’d damage something”…trying to avoid **** like that.
> 
> So thought I’d get a new one from aquatuning usa,ehhhh guess not…$72usd+$9usd canada tax+$15usd canada customs tax+$58usd shipping (seriously $58usd *)…ehmmm $200cad for a stinking device with 8 usb probes and a couple of sensors that cost $15 to make,if even! ** off
> 
> Thing lasted 3 months and already bricked,useless crap like 90% of the stuff companies are making now. A **** ton of people are having connection issues on their forum but it’s everything else except their product,either it’s a bad usb connection (somehow after 3 months not touching it it disconnected by itself?),damaged cable,motherboard issue,dark entities played with it etc etc…but never AquaComputer’s fault


There was one software/firmware update that bricked the crap out of the OCTOs. Mine included. It was X23 if I recall correctly. I submitted a ticket online and they shipped out a new one overnight. Didnt even want the old one back, said they knew what happened as it was a widespread issue. The next release said to disconnect all the fans in a pop up before flashing. They caught a lot of grief over that too because who wants to undo their cable management to update a device? Ive not had any issues since. Multiple devices, Aqauero 6 pro, Octo, Quadro and D5 next. They have all been smooth including the last one to X47.


----------



## JustinThyme

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Guess the best solution to get my OCTO here as fast as possible is to buy from Amazon,once it arrives you take the new unit and connect everything nicely and the old bricked unit goes back into the box with a nice refund from amazon.
> 
> EDIT : 😔 damn,not even amazon both cad nor us has a OCTO currently available…this is truly a sad day. My 12 fans are running at 100% so imagine a phanteks t-30 hammering with 3000rpm cold air into your face 😢
> Whole world is going to **** honestly


I'm with the others. I'm not gonna tell you what to do but Karma is a beotch! Amazon literally will take anything back and they dont check squat. That loss just gets passed on to the vendor while Jeff builds his own space program. I use the hell out of Amazon mostly because its convenient. I can order and its at my door in two days max. Where I live there are a lot of same day items and next day items that dont cost anything more. The amount of Amazon facilities within 50 miles of me is unreal. Id have never guessed but I do work in all of them. There are some where they have two on the same street or right across the street. They are a PITA to do UPS service because they give you a window from 5AM to 7AM and Im like well you realize you are getting the wham bam thank you Mam and not what you paid for as it takes at least 4 hours. They dont care. You cant go in the MDF roof before 5AM and they are sweating bullets the whole time and especially around 6:30AM as you not only have to be done but out of the room and the door locked.

If you want to send the unit to me to try and flash it Ill be more than happy to help. Wont cost you anything but a little postage and you will be good with Hare Krishna. Shoot me a PM if you want. I see you are in Canada so the best route is the mail. UPS is out of the question as they will want to bang you both ways with brokerage fees thats more then the freaking thing costs. Just an offer to keep your one good eye working.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I'm with the others. I'm not gonna tell you what to do but Karma is a beotch! Amazon literally will take anything back and they dont check squat. That loss just gets passed on to the vendor while Jeff builds his own space program. I use the hell out of Amazon mostly because its convenient. I can order and its at my door in two days max. Where I live there are a lot of same day items and next day items that dont cost anything more. The amount of Amazon facilities within 50 miles of me is unreal. Id have never guessed but I do work in all of them. There are some where they have two on the same street or right across the street. They are a PITA to do UPS service because they give you a window from 5AM to 7AM and Im like well you realize you are getting the wham bam thank you Mam and not what you paid for as it takes at least 4 hours. They dont care. You cant go in the MDF roof before 5AM and they are sweating bullets the whole time and especially around 6:30AM as you not only have to be done but out of the room and the door locked.
> 
> If you want to send the unit to me to try and flash it Ill be more than happy to help. Wont cost you anything but a little postage and you will be good with Hare Krishna. Shoot me a PM if you want. I see you are in Canada so the best route is the mail. UPS is out of the question as they will want to bang you both ways with brokerage fees thats more then the freaking thing costs. Just an offer to keep your one good eye working.


Do you find the frequent updates annoying though?. Everytime i touch the computer and need to do testing, etc and open aquasuite i need updates plus firmware updates at times.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Do you find the frequent updates annoying though?. Everytime i touch the computer and need to do testing, etc and open aquasuite i need updates plus firmware updates at times.


Well if they are doing Updates at least they aren't asleep at the wheel. Doesnt really bother me as Ive been through a lot of them, as in before the X variants even came along. Could be worse. They can just sell you a product and never bother with continuous support. For instance motherboards. First year you see a lot of BIOS updates thats more of a PITA than aquasuite because now you have to go back in the BIOS and set everything up again, then when a new product comes out they drop any further support. Never an issue with aqausuite as its automated and does its thing, just the X23 that toasted my OCTO but had a new one in hand two days later express shipped from Germany.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Well if they are doing Updates at least they aren't asleep at the wheel. Doesnt really bother me as Ive been through a lot of them, as in before the X variants even came along. Could be worse. They can just sell you a product and never bother with continuous support. For instance motherboards. First year you see a lot of BIOS updates thats more of a PITA than aquasuite because now you have to go back in the BIOS and set everything up again. Never an issue with aqausuite as its automated and does its thing, just the X23 that toasted my OCTO but had a new one in hand two days later express shipped from Germany.


That is true. I am dealing with that in Alderlake atm. The intial run of bios you got to update. Bad versions do come out.

Aquasuite It was good before the x variants too. I guess i don’t use my computer enough thats why. The old days where it just worked and required minimal firmware updates was the best.

I will say aquacomputer/watercool support generally has been very good. Sven at Aquacomputer and Markus at Watercool.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Well if they are doing Updates at least they aren't asleep at the wheel. Doesnt really bother me as Ive been through a lot of them, as in before the X variants even came along. Could be worse. They can just sell you a product and never bother with continuous support. For instance motherboards. First year you see a lot of BIOS updates thats more of a PITA than aquasuite because now you have to go back in the BIOS and set everything up again, then when a new product comes out they drop any further support. Never an issue with aqausuite as its automated and does its thing, just the X23 that toasted my OCTO but had a new one in hand two days later express shipped from Germany.


windows 11 on alderlake has been an interesting experiment. When i tried fresh windows 11 install ran into direct x runtime and games not loading. Currently awaiting another nvme to test if alderlake cpu related bug or i need to do windows 10 install with direct x then upgrade to windows 11


----------



## LiquidHaus

JustinThyme said:


> Well if they are doing Updates at least they aren't asleep at the wheel. Doesnt really bother me as Ive been through a lot of them, as in before the X variants even came along. Could be worse. They can just sell you a product and never bother with continuous support. For instance motherboards. First year you see a lot of BIOS updates thats more of a PITA than aquasuite because now you have to go back in the BIOS and set everything up again, then when a new product comes out they drop any further support. Never an issue with aqausuite as its automated and does its thing, just the X23 that toasted my OCTO but had a new one in hand two days later express shipped from Germany.



You know, I am definitely happy that Aorus cared enough to continue BIOS updates for my X570 Aorus Xtreme. It's a 1.0 revision, and they've since hit revision 2.0. That board was $700 new, so I'm glad to see it's still getting the same attention as the newer revisions are. That being said, I do also realize that it's still AMD's current gen chipset. We shall see how the BIOS updates go once they're done with X570.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> windows 11 on alderlake has been an interesting experiment. When i tried fresh windows 11 install ran into direct x runtime and games not loading. Currently awaiting another nvme to test if alderlake cpu related bug or i need to do windows 10 install with direct x then upgrade to windows 11


Windows 11 is still buggy on some platforms. I just rolled back from the latest dev build because it was taking forever to boot then no matter what I launched it was moving at a glacial pace. Had a suspicion and ran crystalmark and was getting 20MB/s on OPTANE AIC DRIVES!! I’m like wut da fut! Rolled it back and right back up to 275MB/s. I have it on pause for the moment. Real PITA with being in thr DEV channel is the only way out for now is to do a clean install of 10 and wipe everything then upgrade to the 11 release. I’m really not up for an entire day of sitting in the chair reinstalling TWICE, then loading all the software, hunting down licenses etc. I tried restoring a back up but it won’t let me. Guess If it gets too bad I’ll do the clean install and recover from back up of when I first got my last clean install of windows done and all the software loaded and go from there.


----------



## KCDC

JustinThyme said:


> Windows 11 is still buggy on some platforms. I just rolled back from the latest dev build because it was taking forever to boot then no matter what I launched it was moving at a glacial pace. Had a suspicion and ran crystalmark and was getting 20MB/s on OPTANE AIC DRIVES!! I’m like wut da fut! Rolled it back and right back up to 275MB/s. I have it on pause for the moment. Real PITA with being in thr DEV channel is the only way out for now is to do a clean install of 10 and wipe everything then upgrade to the 11 release. I’m really not up for an entire day of sitting in the chair reinstalling TWICE, then loading all the software, hunting down licenses etc. I tried restoring a back up but it won’t let me. Guess If it gets too bad I’ll do the clean install and recover from back up of when I first got my last clean install of windows done and all the software loaded and go from there.


My [email protected]$$ decided to try out the insider win 11 on my vfx workstation. Honestly don't know what I was thinking. Ever since the past few updates, the boot time has been horrible, lots of lag overall, random app crashes. USB ports acting wacky. Seems like every update introduces some other new issue. Haven't had the time to do a full wipe back to 10, I really need to, but so many licenses to redo.... Never making a decision like that after a few drinks again...


----------



## JustinThyme

KCDC said:


> My [email protected]$$ decided to try out the insider win 11 on my vfx workstation. Honestly don't know what I was thinking. Ever since the past few updates, the boot time has been horrible, lots of lag overall, random app crashes. USB ports acting wacky. Seems like every update introduces some other new issue. Haven't had the time to do a full wipe back to 10, I really need to, but so many licenses to redo.... Never making a decision like that after a few drinks again...


Well dont feel too bad, I did it completely SOBER!!
Ive not had many issues but wish Id stayed in the beta channel. Had to roll back a couple of times. It was really horrible on the first few builds even in the beta channel. I was running it on unused board and CPU with a 1080 spare GPU and 960 M.2 drive. It flaked out multiple times needing a clean install. Then that got pretty stable and I made the switch to the DEV channel with no way out. My one week of pause has ended and its in the middle of updating to 10.0.11504.1010 right now. Hope it doenst foul up and force me to roll back again.


----------



## KedarWolf

JustinThyme said:


> Well dont feel too bad, I did it completely SOBER!!
> Ive not had many issues but wish Id stayed in the beta channel. Had to roll back a couple of times. It was really horrible on the first few builds even in the beta channel. I was running it on unused board and CPU with a 1080 spare GPU and 960 M.2 drive. It flaked out multiple times needing a clean install. Then that got pretty stable and I made the switch to the DEV channel with no way out. My one week of pause has ended and its in the middle of updating to 10.0.11504.1010 right now. Hope it doenst foul up and force me to roll back again.


Windows 11 would BSOD on me every 30 minutes or so, but Windows 10 never did. This with my CPU Core Cycler stable and my memory TM5 stable.

I found out yesterday my 12v CPU and GPU rails were lowering to 11.6v while under load and who knows what else was screwed up with my voltages.

I narrowed it down to my CableMod Pro cables.

Back to the stock AX1600i cables and my 12v rails never go below 12.05v.

So now I want to try Windows 11 again. I need to do a clean install as I deleted my Windows 11 Macrium image I was so discouraged with it.

But with all my scripts and stuff I run through my answer file on first boot get everything completely configured and set up in 11 in less than an hour.

Edit: I had a Windows 11 Macrium image on my traditional hard disk I backed up my second M.2 to.


----------



## Section31

I decided to just screw it (wasn’t anything important on the os drive and redid it). Good news on windows 10 no issues. So i guess i got to do upgrade method


----------



## dng25

I have windows 11 on my laptop but I don't think I'm gonna upgrade any of my desktop to it. The start menu is horrible and locking the taskbar to the bottom of the screen sucks for multiple monitors. Just let the user choose the location...


----------



## JustinThyme

KedarWolf said:


> Windows 11 would BSOD on me every 30 minutes or so, but Windows 10 never did. This with my CPU Core Cycler stable and my memory TM5 stable.
> 
> I found out yesterday my 12v CPU and GPU rails were lowering to 11.6v while under load and who knows what else was screwed up with my voltages.
> 
> I narrowed it down to my CableMod Pro cables.
> 
> Back to the stock AX1600i cables and my 12v rails never go below 12.05v.
> 
> So now I want to try Windows 11 again. I need to do a clean install as I deleted my Windows 11 Macrium image I was so discouraged with it.
> 
> But with all my scripts and stuff I run through my answer file on first boot get everything completely configured and set up in 11 in less than an hour.
> 
> Edit: I had a Windows 11 Macrium image on my traditional hard disk I backed up my second M.2 to.


Well that is messed up. Id definitely be getting ahold of them to either get you a correct set of cables or a refund. I have cable mods made to order on my AX1600I.
Yeah I keep two copies of backups. I use Acronis that does a very good job with incremental backups with every 5th one being a full back up. One copy on a local disk and another on my NAS. Believe it or not the restore from the NAS once i GET THE 10GBe drivers installed is faster than the SATA SSD raid I have the back ups on. Nice to see the network is no longer the limiting factor. Get twice the speed between my NAS and the 905P optane that my OS is installed to than I do from a local SATA raid array. Leaps and bounds. Im so freaking old LANs were 1Mb/s over coax LOL and that was new tech!


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Well that is messed up. Id definitely be getting ahold of them to either get you a correct set of cables or a refund. I have cable mods made to order on my AX1600I.
> Yeah I keep two copies of backups. I use Acronis that does a very good job with incremental backups with every 5th one being a full back up. One copy on a local disk and another on my NAS. Believe it or not the restore from the NAS once i GET THE 10GBe drivers installed is faster than the SATA SSD raid I have the back ups on. Nice to see the network is no longer the limiting factor. Get twice the speed between my NAS and the 905P optane that my OS is installed to than I do from a local SATA raid array. Leaps and bounds. Im so freaking old LANs were 1Mb/s over coax LOL and that was new tech!


Nice. Planning an 10gbe internal network at households for future house


----------



## dwolvin

I must be the outlier, Win 11 has been fine for me. Ryzen 7 5800X / Tomahawk x570 and the only thing I saw since upgrade is the scheduler issue, and that was benchmark trouble, not noticeable in games that I play. I do wish they'd hurry up and fix the inability to move the task bar, but that's my biggest complaint and I really do thing search functions, boot, and hibernate are much faster than 10.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> I must be the outlier, Win 11 has been fine for me. Ryzen 7 5800X / Tomahawk x570 and the only thing I saw since upgrade is the scheduler issue, and that was benchmark trouble, not noticeable in games that I play. I do wish they'd hurry up and fix the inability to move the task bar, but that's my biggest complaint and I really do thing search functions, boot, and hibernate are much faster than 10.


I suspect its alderlake related more. I have window 11 on ryzen 4800h laptop and never had any issues.


----------



## acoustic

Win11 and AlderLake runs perfect for me. So far Win11 is an upgrade over Win10 in every area especially after making a few tweaks.

Anyone running a dev or insider build is asking to have issues though; kind of the whole point of being on the insider program.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

JustinThyme said:


> I'm with the others. I'm not gonna tell you what to do but Karma is a beotch! Amazon literally will take anything back and they dont check squat. That loss just gets passed on to the vendor while Jeff builds his own space program. I use the hell out of Amazon mostly because its convenient. I can order and its at my door in two days max. Where I live there are a lot of same day items and next day items that dont cost anything more. The amount of Amazon facilities within 50 miles of me is unreal. Id have never guessed but I do work in all of them. There are some where they have two on the same street or right across the street. They are a PITA to do UPS service because they give you a window from 5AM to 7AM and Im like well you realize you are getting the wham bam thank you Mam and not what you paid for as it takes at least 4 hours. They dont care. You cant go in the MDF roof before 5AM and they are sweating bullets the whole time and especially around 6:30AM as you not only have to be done but out of the room and the door locked.
> 
> If you want to send the unit to me to try and flash it Ill be more than happy to help. Wont cost you anything but a little postage and you will be good with Hare Krishna. Shoot me a PM if you want. I see you are in Canada so the best route is the mail. UPS is out of the question as they will want to bang you both ways with brokerage fees thats more then the freaking thing costs. Just an offer to keep your one good eye working.


Hey,I wasn’t online yesterday just saw your offer and I honestly appreciate it a lot!

Sven came back to me yesterday and they shipped out a new one after I talked to him.
It should be here between 6th-9th Dec…
If they wouldn’t have done that I’d take your offer,better paying postage then paying another $100+ for something used 2 months.

Tho they did try to mingle like “weird,first time we hear about a issue like this?”
So I had to upload a **** ton of issues from beginnning of the year with the X23 update,after that suddenly my OCTO issue wasn’t that weird 🤣 …..


@everyone

Since I’ve done a clean Windows 11 install my pc is running super smooth!
The only somewhat annoying thing is that every time my pc goes into a weird reboot,black screen for 20sec and turns back on. Once that passes it runs fir hours super smooth. Much better tbh then Win10.
I’m not sure if it’s the Strix block causing the weird reboot,it’s not even a full reboot with mobo screen,just black screen and after 20sec it logs back in?

I can’t pin point the issue,it happens 7-8 times out of 10…I think it started since the Strix block,but I tightened mine really hard,cant go more if I wanted to. It’s nothing huge just weird

Like @acoustic said if you’re running dev or insuder build that’s the issue. Source “ME”,insider ****ed up my system so bad I had to completely redo everything not even the mobo was regocnized anymore. Since a fresh clean install it runs as said perfectly!


----------



## elbramso

Almost one month since optimus announced their last update in regards of the kp block. 
This kind of communication with customers just s*cks big time...


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Win11 and AlderLake runs perfect for me. So far Win11 is an upgrade over Win10 in every area especially after making a few tweaks.
> 
> Anyone running a dev or insider build is asking to have issues though; kind of the whole point of being on the insider program.


I think my case is just odd bug. Sometimes just got to restart from scratch to fix these things. Not worth wasting time debugging in my case. It was working before i decided to do an clean install.

Wanted to get rid of all the ryzen, etc stuff still hidden in my windows install and reduce the windows install size. Not planning to buy 2tb nvme yet.


----------



## acoustic

I am a firm believer in fresh windows installs. Asking for issues with upgrading etc. I reinstall Windows fresh probably once every 1-2 years. You forget how smooth Windows is until you reformat


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Hey,I wasn’t online yesterday just saw your offer and I honestly appreciate it a lot!
> 
> Sven came back to me yesterday and they shipped out a new one after I talked to him.
> It should be here between 6th-9th Dec…
> If they wouldn’t have done that I’d take your offer,better paying postage then paying another $100+ for something used 2 months.
> 
> Tho they did try to mingle like “weird,first time we hear about a issue like this?”
> So I had to upload a **** ton of issues from beginnning of the year with the X23 update,after that suddenly my OCTO issue wasn’t that weird 🤣 …..
> 
> 
> @everyone
> 
> Since I’ve done a clean Windows 11 install my pc is running super smooth!
> The only somewhat annoying thing is that every time my pc goes into a weird reboot,black screen for 20sec and turns back on. Once that passes it runs fir hours super smooth. Much better tbh then Win10.
> I’m not sure if it’s the Strix block causing the weird reboot,it’s not even a full reboot with mobo screen,just black screen and after 20sec it logs back in?
> 
> I can’t pin point the issue,it happens 7-8 times out of 10…I think it started since the Strix block,but I tightened mine really hard,cant go more if I wanted to. It’s nothing huge just weird
> 
> Like @acoustic said if you’re running dev or insuder build that’s the issue. Source “ME”,insider ****ed up my system so bad I had to completely redo everything not even the mobo was regocnized anymore. Since a fresh clean install it runs as said perfectly!


Sven (Aquacomputer) even Markus (Watercool) provide top quality support. I’ve dealt with them on orders and product issues before. Very responsive.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I am a firm believer in fresh windows installs. Asking for issues with upgrading etc. I reinstall Windows fresh probably once every 1-2 years. You forget how smooth Windows is until you reformat


Me too. It’s the solution to many bugs that develop over time on windows. Unfortunately most ppl store all there data on os drive that it’s impossible to do reformat to solve there issues.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

acoustic said:


> I am a firm believer in fresh windows installs. Asking for issues with upgrading etc. I reinstall Windows fresh probably once every 1-2 years. You forget how smooth Windows is until you reformat


Same!

I go so far to completely redo everything,even a fresh GPU clean and reinstall. I didn’t do it for the Win10 to Win11 transfer and messed up my whole pc. It was ugly bad,even CMOS cleaning wouldn’t load anything on my screen. Crash after crash,I’m not even sure how I managed to fix it? My mobo was completely dead,couldn’t even enter the backup bios…now it’s super smooth.

That’s why I’ve bought 2 SN850’s one 500gb for exclusively Win installs and the other 1TB for games,my programs etc etc…


----------



## acoustic

I run a Crucial P5 2TB for data and a Samsung 980 Pro 500gb for the OS. Can't tell a speed difference, but easy when reformatting


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

I’ve bought the SN 850’s because money isn’t a issue for me so I upgraded but in all honesty I can’t feel/see any difference then the last gen!
The only difference I see that’s notable is when installing Windows,otherwise I don’t see it doing anything faster/better then my previous gen ssd.
Guess it’s only really noticeable for people with really old ssd’s or hd’s but if you go from year to year better don’t bother IMO

As you said it’s easier formatting and having Win exclusively on one drive nothing else


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I run a Crucial P5 2TB for data and a Samsung 980 Pro 500gb for the OS. Can't tell a speed difference, but easy when reformatting


I got 1TB 970 pro for data/games and 1TB SN850 for OS. Just bought an 1TB P5 Plus. Hard to give up the mlc drives.


----------



## dwolvin

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Hey,I wasn’t online yesterday just saw your offer and I honestly appreciate it a lot!
> 
> Sven came back to me yesterday and they shipped out a new one after I talked to him.
> It should be here between 6th-9th Dec…
> If they wouldn’t have done that I’d take your offer,better paying postage then paying another $100+ for something used 2 months.
> 
> Tho they did try to mingle like “weird,first time we hear about a issue like this?”
> So I had to upload a **** ton of issues from beginnning of the year with the X23 update,after that suddenly my OCTO issue wasn’t that weird 🤣 …..
> 
> 
> @everyone
> 
> Since I’ve done a clean Windows 11 install my pc is running super smooth!
> The only somewhat annoying thing is that every time my pc goes into a weird reboot,black screen for 20sec and turns back on. Once that passes it runs fir hours super smooth. Much better tbh then Win10.
> I’m not sure if it’s the Strix block causing the weird reboot,it’s not even a full reboot with mobo screen,just black screen and after 20sec it logs back in?
> 
> I can’t pin point the issue,it happens 7-8 times out of 10…I think it started since the Strix block,but I tightened mine really hard,cant go more if I wanted to. It’s nothing huge just weird
> 
> Like @acoustic said if you’re running dev or insuder build that’s the issue. Source “ME”,insider ****ed up my system so bad I had to completely redo everything not even the mobo was regocnized anymore. Since a fresh clean install it runs as said perfectly!


Huh, can you do me a favor and look at your event logs after that happens? That sounds like a graphics driver crash, but normally Windows throws a pop-up indicating that. Honestly curious!


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

dwolvin said:


> Huh, can you do me a favor and look at your event logs after that happens? That sounds like a graphics driver crash, but normally Windows throws a pop-up indicating that. Honestly curious!


Will do,good idea!

Basically my pc starts like usual and mostly (80% of the time) after 1-2min the screen goes black. I never see a reboot or mobo/windows logo just a black screen like disconnect for maybe 8sec and then it turns back on by itself.
After that initial black screen my pc can run for 20h without any issue but 8 out of 10 times it happens?

I tried researching but nobody has anything similar,here and there a psu issue but my psu is fine otherwise it wouldn’t run properly afterwards?! Shouldn’t be a damaged GPU or I wouldn’t be able to overclock it as much as I do either (tho at startup my GPU is not oc’d only when gaming I turn it on)…tried changing power planes same ****, I can’t say 100% with security but I’m leaning towards the Strix Block. 
A couple of days ago one user here reported the exact same issue,but I’ll do the event log thing haven’t thought about doing it till you mentioned it.


----------



## JustinThyme

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Hey,I wasn’t online yesterday just saw your offer and I honestly appreciate it a lot!
> 
> Sven came back to me yesterday and they shipped out a new one after I talked to him.
> It should be here between 6th-9th Dec…
> If they wouldn’t have done that I’d take your offer,better paying postage then paying another $100+ for something used 2 months.
> 
> Tho they did try to mingle like “weird,first time we hear about a issue like this?”
> So I had to upload a **** ton of issues from beginnning of the year with the X23 update,after that suddenly my OCTO issue wasn’t that weird 🤣 …..
> 
> 
> @everyone
> 
> Since I’ve done a clean Windows 11 install my pc is running super smooth!
> The only somewhat annoying thing is that every time my pc goes into a weird reboot,black screen for 20sec and turns back on. Once that passes it runs fir hours super smooth. Much better tbh then Win10.
> I’m not sure if it’s the Strix block causing the weird reboot,it’s not even a full reboot with mobo screen,just black screen and after 20sec it logs back in?
> 
> I can’t pin point the issue,it happens 7-8 times out of 10…I think it started since the Strix block,but I tightened mine really hard,cant go more if I wanted to. It’s nothing huge just weird
> 
> Like @acoustic said if you’re running dev or insuder build that’s the issue. Source “ME”,insider ****ed up my system so bad I had to completely redo everything not even the mobo was regocnized anymore. Since a fresh clean install it runs as said perfectly!


Glad to hear you got it sorted and they are sending you a new one. My suspicion is had I tried I would have gotten the same result. Its nothing more than USB communicating to their device though their software and USB either works or it doesnt. This was the best option. When Mine crapped from X23 they overnighted me a new one even though their website and everywhere else had no stock. Ive found that if you are straight and nice with them they are eager to please their customers. Conversely Ive seen butt fleas acting an a$$ up in their forum get told to be nice, then warned and finally banned. Thats where I started, they responded within an hour or so and told me to log a ticket which I did. They sent me an email asking the circumanstances and I replied and next thing I got was a DHL shipping notification. I replied to the early email asking if they wanted the old one back and they told me to toss it. They didnt send the rubber backing or anything else, just the board itself which is fine, not like its hard to pop out the borked one from the rubber mount.

Anyhow anytime someone can use the help and I can accommodate and you want to send whatever it is to me I'm more than happy to help. I wont rip anyone off, bad Karma and lord knows I have more PC crap than I know what to do with. If I wasnt lazy Id have one hell of a sale. I usually just watch the market place and see if someone is looking or multiple times Ive packed up stuff and sent it to people less fortunate. Empties out shelf space in my PC parts store in the basement and makes the wife happy when she sees things going out. Now if I could just get her to reciprocate LOL. Closest I get is she moves stuff out of the house and into the garage when I spend a whole weekend in their cleaning it out. Freaking 2 car garage and the only thing parked in there is my HD Fatboy and a snowblower. Granted some it its mine. I need to get busy popping out fasteners in copper plates, stripping DLO cable and some UPS heat sinks that are like 40 pounds of solid copper each. With the prices where they are now at $3.80 lb for bright copper that I have every bit of 1000 lbs of it I need to get busy. Probably knock it out in a weekend. Also sitting on a Dozen or more UPS batteries, not the little guys either. All 150-200 lbs each. Thats 20 cents a pound so theres another $500 for scrap batteries. For those all I have to do is load them up. Probably first step to get some room to work the rest. Im going to open up one side anyway so I can fit my drive on bike lift, parts shelves and tool boxes for my bike and triple dog dare here to put anything in that half of the garage!!. If she does the next thing rolling in will be a load of lumber to put up a wall and only the garage door for that side and an entry door closer to the house entrance. Might do that anyway so I can insulate it and put heat and air in there.


----------



## JustinThyme

KedarWolf said:


> Windows 11 would BSOD on me every 30 minutes or so, but Windows 10 never did. This with my CPU Core Cycler stable and my memory TM5 stable.
> 
> I found out yesterday my 12v CPU and GPU rails were lowering to 11.6v while under load and who knows what else was screwed up with my voltages.
> 
> I narrowed it down to my CableMod Pro cables.
> 
> Back to the stock AX1600i cables and my 12v rails never go below 12.05v.
> 
> So now I want to try Windows 11 again. I need to do a clean install as I deleted my Windows 11 Macrium image I was so discouraged with it.
> 
> But with all my scripts and stuff I run through my answer file on first boot get everything completely configured and set up in 11 in less than an hour.
> 
> Edit: I had a Windows 11 Macrium image on my traditional hard disk I backed up my second M.2 to.


Meant to ask you are you getting a BSOD or GSOD? All of my Win 11 fails have given me a green screen. Nice change from the old blue and gets your attention. Bright a$$ lime green.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Nice. Planning an 10gbe internal network at households for future house


When it came out and my MOBO has 10GBe over copper and router to managed switch as well as managed switch to NAS are fiber SFP+ I bit the bullet. The managed switch was probably the most expensive part, around $2K. If you are doing it all copper and dont want to or dont know how to use a managed switch and just want plug and play the run of the mill unmanaged 10 port 10GBe runs around $200. I have one upstairs in my office and one downstairs tucked behind my home entertainment. I just got finished moving the Verizion router and my Netgear nighthawk X10 out of sight and out of mind. Dont care where the Verizion one sits as I dont use the wifi. Just has to connect to the OND then to my nighthawk for ISP then it has to connect to the main DVR box downstairs as thats how they transmit the guides. The box upstairs is the only wireless thing that connects to that router so I dont have to run a cable. Can pack that box where ever. So a few long pieces of cable up and down the center chase that runs from the basement to the attic where my Furnace and water heater chimney used to be before I ripped that sucker out and went HE on both. Then one Cat 6 cable back down to the Nighthawk that now resides hanging on the wall when you open the basement door which is right smack in the middle of the house and at first floor level. Have an access point attached to the 10GB switch upstairs so its all meshed. So dont have to look at that up in with my how entertainment stuff anymore. Nothing there but a cable DVR, Oppo UHD HDR bluray, Denon AVR and 3 Emotiva amps. Went with 3 to get the power. They make very nice amps, they arent cheap but they arent stupid expensive either. Have a two channel to drive my Polk L800. 3 channel to drive my Polk legends center and L600 surrounds then a 5 channel that drive the atmos height channels and rear surround channels. Not a damn thing on FIOS uses the technology. Mostly just 5.1 surround. Theres a good bit on netflix, HULU and VUDU and of course the Oppo Not only puts out nice 4K HDR with dolby vision and seperate HDMI to the AVR for audio will just blow you away with the soundtracks and SACD. My wife doesnt like it but when you are watching a scene where a helocopter comes and flys over and its recorded in ATMOS the sound starts in front, goes overhead then to the surround back. She would just as soon watch with the TV speakers. The sound separation messes with her head I think. Fine with me, at least that way I dont have to worry about a woman running their yap while you are trying to watch a movie.


----------



## satinghostrider

Just got my Strix block yesterday and got some RGB strip taped to the side. Pretty impressed with the look. Just need to swap out my card next week when I have the time.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

To the guys owning the 12900K

Would you say it’s worth upgrading from a 5900x or previous last gen Intel CPU’S,or should I wait for next gen and sit this one out?
I’m thinking about switching over because my pc is 80% for gaming and it’s easier to tweak etc…then the 5900x and AMD’s.

If yes,how are the DDR5’s because they’re new? Which one is the best currently and which motherboard is recommended if money isn’t a problem?

I’ve read reviews but it’s kinda all over the place,for some it’s buggy others say it’s great…a bug here and there isn’t a issue I just need it for stable gaming and not crash every 15min


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> To the guys owning the 12900K
> 
> Would you say it’s worth upgrading from a 5900x or previous last gen Intel CPU’S,or should I wait for next gen and sit this one out?
> I’m thinking about switching over because my pc is 80% for gaming and it’s easier to tweak etc…then the 5900x and AMD’s.
> 
> If yes,how are the DDR5’s because they’re new? Which one is the best currently and which motherboard is recommended if money isn’t a problem?
> 
> I’ve read reviews but it’s kinda all over the place,for some it’s buggy others say it’s great…a bug here and there isn’t a issue I just need it for stable gaming and not crash every 15min


Personally after thinking about it a lot and looking at dozens of reviews...I came to the conclusion that early stage DDR5 will struggle to match high end DDR4. I went from cancelling my preorder for the Asus Z690 ROG Strix Gaming-A D4 board to preordering the Asus Z690 Apex, to then canceling that preorder and finally ordering that original D4 board once it was available in stock. It's cheaper. You don't have to rush out and spend a ton of money on super high end DDR5 that you can't even find, and that even then won't necessarily be better than your DDR4. And with people sharing details of how they're running their DDR4 at higher clocks in Gear 1 with the 12900k....kind of became a no-brainer.

I have an 11900K in my gaming setup. And a 5950x in my work computer. The 5950x is driving me nuts with random hangs during idle/low load. No OC or PBO or anything. Very unhappy with it. So going to put the 12900K in my gaming rig, move the 11900k into my work computer, and sell the 5950x garbage. As for stability and all that of 12900K, I can't comment yet. Motherboard won't arrive until the end of the week. Only real complaint I have with Z690 is that you can't run a PCIe 5.0 4x NVMe alongside PCIe 5.0 x16 GPU. So there's no future proofing there.


----------



## Section31

Duplicate. Please Ignore


----------



## Section31

Only thing i really want at this point is the perfect glass reservoir. The ultitube is the closest thing but it had minor issues that make me tempted to replace it. I am pretty content with my build overall though. It's not pretty by any means but its perfect combination of easy maintenance without looking too ugly. All my previous builds major downfall were when it came time to do maintenance, it was lot of work.

Unfortunately some things i have to live with. I suspect my Mo-Ra3 has some oxidization as its the only thing leftover that could be causing copperish elements to appear in the fittings. That and the fittings/quickdisconnect hit are all in the portion that deal directly with the Mo-Ra3 (the CPU loop fittings are very clean). No performance effect and Mayhem XTR mitigates the further risk so will live with it.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Personally after thinking about it a lot and looking at dozens of reviews...I came to the conclusion that early stage DDR5 will struggle to match high end DDR4. I went from cancelling my preorder for the Asus Z690 ROG Strix Gaming-A D4 board to preordering the Asus Z690 Apex, to then canceling that preorder and finally ordering that original D4 board once it was available in stock. It's cheaper. You don't have to rush out and spend a ton of money on super high end DDR5 that you can't even find, and that even then won't necessarily be better than your DDR4. And with people sharing details of how they're running their DDR4 at higher clocks in Gear 1 with the 12900k....kind of became a no-brainer.
> 
> I have an 11900K in my gaming setup. And a 5950x in my work computer. The 5950x is driving me nuts with random hangs during idle/low load. No OC or PBO or anything. Very unhappy with it. So going to put the 12900K in my gaming rig, move the 11900k into my work computer, and sell the 5950x garbage. As for stability and all that of 12900K, I can't comment yet. Motherboard won't arrive until the end of the week. Only real complaint I have with Z690 is that you can't run a PCIe 5.0 4x NVMe alongside PCIe 5.0 x16 GPU. So there's no future proofing there.


I finally did more testing with 12900K gaming and i quite like the results. For my needs, it was worthwhile change since i won't every use 16core/32threads ever and i don't have the time to do per core overclock/undervolting. I also share same complaints about Gen 5 NVME but i figure its 2024-2025 before i change to 2TB Gen 5 NVME so i will get new motherboard then. Though i almost did buy the 2TB SN850 on sale this black friday but decided against because i was 100% going to get the 2TB Gen 5 Nvme in next two years. NVME have poor resale value and I don't need spare laying around. I plan to transfer the 1TB SN850 to PS5 down the road.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Received my XT-1 V2 and all I did was unplug the cables so I can refill again. Guess what happened again my motherboard went into the same **** state with a “0D” led status code you can’t flash bios,you can’t cmos,you can’t do **** with it again. Literally the same exact thing happened 10 days ago and I had to completely remove everything and reinstall everything all over again.

I’m sitting here already wasting again 3h of my life with this stupid crap,since I’ve bought this crap CPU and AMD I’m more fixing then doing anything else. Literally a stupid unplug destroys your pc,I can’t even fix the bios to appear not to mention start anything.

If I have to redo everything again I’m done with pc’s,I’ll sell everything and **** this whole crap. Paying these prices and sitting here every 10 days fixing stuff because you unplugged or updated your bios isn’t worth my time or nerves.


----------



## Keith Myers

HyperMatrix said:


> Personally after thinking about it a lot and looking at dozens of reviews...I came to the conclusion that early stage DDR5 will struggle to match high end DDR4. I went from cancelling my preorder for the Asus Z690 ROG Strix Gaming-A D4 board to preordering the Asus Z690 Apex, to then canceling that preorder and finally ordering that original D4 board once it was available in stock. It's cheaper. You don't have to rush out and spend a ton of money on super high end DDR5 that you can't even find, and that even then won't necessarily be better than your DDR4. And with people sharing details of how they're running their DDR4 at higher clocks in Gear 1 with the 12900k....kind of became a no-brainer.
> 
> I have an 11900K in my gaming setup. And a 5950x in my work computer. The 5950x is driving me nuts with random hangs during idle/low load. No OC or PBO or anything. Very unhappy with it. So going to put the 12900K in my gaming rig, move the 11900k into my work computer, and sell the 5950x garbage. As for stability and all that of 12900K, I can't comment yet. Motherboard won't arrive until the end of the week. Only real complaint I have with Z690 is that you can't run a PCIe 5.0 4x NVMe alongside PCIe 5.0 x16 GPU. So there's no future proofing there.


If the 5950X is a work computer, why are you trying to run it as if it was a gaming computer with unfettered cpu voltages and clocks?

Why not just run it locked to a single high clock with just enough voltage to run stably at that clock. I can run my 5950X at much higher all-core clocks than what it would run with Auto or PBO settings on my all-core load and much lower voltages and temps. My 5950X is rock solid at 4.425GHz on all-cores on my BOINC loads and never breaks 80° C.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Keith Myers said:


> If the 5950X is a work computer, why are you trying to run it as if it was a gaming computer with unfettered cpu voltages and clocks?
> 
> Why not just run it locked to a single high clock with just enough voltage to run stably at that clock. I can run my 5950X at much higher all-core clocks than what it would run with Auto or PBO settings on my all-core load and much lower voltages and temps. My 5950X is rock solid at 4.425GHz on all-cores on my BOINC loads and never breaks 80° C.


To clarify…I’m NOT running PBO or any overclocking profile. A single high clock would require a single higher voltage and power consumption and heat generation for no reason. My expectation is for a CPU to work properly at default settings. It’s not able to do so. So instead of going through hoops to figure out how to make it not crash, I’m simply going to replace it. My Intel CPUs, whether on auto or locked clocks/voltage have been great. And 4.4GHz locked would be not so great for me as I do a lot of single threaded work as well (like photoshop). A stock 10900k would outperform a 5950x in those applications if you had to lock it to 4.4GHz. So why even bother?


----------



## Keith Myers

It didn't take any sort of extraordinary measures to achieve my stable setting. I just set a 44.25 multiplier in the perCCX menu for both dies, set a .2125V offset for cpu voltage and LLC3 level and didn't enable any of the default overclock settings in the BIOS. The most tweaking I needed was for CL14 Fast 3600 memory. My system runs without issues 24/7 for weeks on end until I feel the need to do the pending updates. My stable loaded voltage is only around 1.26V and this is for my daily driver which also runs my Gridcoin wallet and which I spend most of the day in front of cruising the forums and Internet. I have set up my 3950X hosts the same way. The only hosts I run stock are the Epyc server hosts.

If I was to restart my sole Intel host which also only ran 4.4Ghz all-core, I would lose about 30% of production due to the inferior math performance compared to my AMD hosts. I'm talking about needing as much as 30 minutes longer to run my cpu tasks compared to my AMD hosts. I still have the Intel host motherboard, cpu and memory on the shelf for emergencies in case I might ever need it again. But why bother when it uses more power for much less performance.


----------



## criskoe

To all you 12th gen guys out there. What ram kits were you actually able to get your hands on? Did any of you break down and pay scalper pricing? No matter how much I really want to swap out my 10th gen, I cannot bring myself to pay these exorbitant ddr5 scalper prices. Also not sure how I feel about getting 12th gen with ddr4. Would feel like too much of a expensive stop gap.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> To all you 12th gen guys out there. What ram kits were you actually able to get your hands on? Did any of you break down and pay scalper pricing? No matter how much I really want to swap out my 10th gen, I cannot bring myself to pay these exorbitant ddr5 scalper prices. Also not sure how I feel about getting 12th gen with ddr4. Would feel like too much of a expensive stop gap.


Good luck getting ahold of ddr5 ram kits. Me and Shawnb99 were lucky to get ahold of xpg kit ddr5-5200 (shawnb99 through memexpress) and micron ddr5-4800 (myself through amazon) no heatsink kit. We paid non scalper prices but we both got it early thats why. Both of us are holding out for gskill trident z5 ddr5-5600 plus at this point. We are among the lucky ones to have workable systems.

You don’t heatsink according to derbauer. The kits available in canada (up to ddr5-5200 are micron). Hopefully hynix/samsung kits are better

As usual, corsair kits are overpriced in canada. The msrp for gskill z5 ddr5-5600 is 337usd on newegg us. Meanwhile corsair charge 440cad for dominator ddr5-5200. The trend of better gskill kits being cheaper than corsair continues from ddr4. Just when newegg.ca gets stock is the question.

Then canada computer is running bundle deals to sell there ram i suspect. I tried the bundle and guess what its won’t let you buy the bundle.

Probably best to use 10th gen couple more year and jump to Raptorlake or Meteorlake or Amd equivalent of them. If you must get alderlake, review testing shows for gaming ddr4 3600 good enough.









DDR5 Memory Performance Scaling with Alder Lake Core i9-12900K


In this article, we take a closer look at the performance scaling you can expect for various DDR5 configurations. We test from DDR5-6000 all the way down to DDR5-2400 and compare CL30 vs. CL36 vs. CL40. Last but not least, we also consider these numbers in relation to what DDR4-3600 offers.




www.techpowerup.com


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> Good luck getting ahold of ddr5 ram kits. Me and Shawnb99 were lucky to get ahold of xpg kit ddr5-5200 (shawnb99 through memexpress) and micron ddr5-4800 (myself through amazon) no heatsink kit. We paid non scalper prices but we both got it early thats why. Both of us are holding out for gskill trident z5 ddr5-5600 plus at this point. We are among the lucky ones to have workable systems.
> 
> You don’t heatsink according to derbauer. The kits available in canada (up to ddr5-5200 are micron). Hopefully hynix/samsung kits are better
> 
> As usual, corsair kits are overpriced in canada. The msrp for gskill z5 ddr5-5600 is 337usd on newegg us. Meanwhile corsair charge 440cad for dominator ddr5-5200. The trend of better gskill kits being cheaper than corsair continues from ddr4. Just when newegg.ca gets stock is the question.
> 
> Then canada computer is running bundle deals to sell there ram i suspect. I tried the bundle and guess what its won’t let you buy the bundle.
> 
> Probably best to use 10th gen couple more year and jump to Raptorlake or Meteorlake or Amd equivalent of them. If you must get alderlake, review testing shows for gaming ddr4 3600 good enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DDR5 Memory Performance Scaling with Alder Lake Core i9-12900K
> 
> 
> In this article, we take a closer look at the performance scaling you can expect for various DDR5 configurations. We test from DDR5-6000 all the way down to DDR5-2400 and compare CL30 vs. CL36 vs. CL40. Last but not least, we also consider these numbers in relation to what DDR4-3600 offers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techpowerup.com


Yeah I dont really NEED it per say. Its just my 10900k is showing its older IPC in BF2042. Im getting pretty low dips. With that said, that game is massively cpu bottlenecked at the moment and something tells me that the magic performance patch isnt going to come. They might have just been too far ahead of themselves with the 128 player count. 

Yeah Im not gunna bother with a DDR4 motherboard for alder. I know at this point its close in performance but Ill end up wanting to swap it out soon as better ddr5 is actually available and will waste my money. 

I have a ugly feeling that the DDR5 mess isnt going to get better soon either. Its gunna just get worse with scalpers. 

Did shawn99 actually get his ram yet? or still pre order?


----------



## criskoe

@Shawnb99

Did you get your Z690 Extreme Yet? If so could you tell me if the top VRM heatsink goes above the top of the motherboard? or is it flush with the motherboard. All the pictures online make it looks like it is actually taller.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

criskoe said:


> @Shawnb99
> 
> Did you get your Z690 Extreme Yet? If so could you tell me if the top VRM heatsink goes above the top of the motherboard? or is it flush with the motherboard. All the pictures online make it looks like it is actually taller.
> 
> View attachment 2535052


On one of his 10 hour-long Z690 motherboard videos, Buildzoid described how the through-hole capacitors on the Extreme are not as good as the polymer capacitors on the Apex.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Went on Optimus's website this morning and noticed this. Haven't seen any announcements about this from them.


----------



## criskoe

Edge0fsanity said:


> Went on Optimus's website this morning and noticed this. Haven't seen any announcements about this from them.


That was up on their site last week.. lol


----------



## Paramedic10

I'm one of the lucky ones who got a 12900k and a DDR5 RAM kit on release day for standard pricing at microcenter. I actually had to wait a week for a motherboard because I wanted to stick to ASUS for the cooler compatibility as at the time, no word was out yet on brackets for many coolers.

I understand some of the arguments made for sticking with a D4 motherboard especially if you have some high-end D4 ram already and a lot of it, however my opinion says why handicap yourself? Yes, D5 isn't breaking any records yet but it soon will be as the technology continues to be matured. Also, this socket is brand new and still has 13th generation support coming which should last through another 2 years until the 14th generation comes out most likely. So my choice was to take the leap now and not handicap myself with ddr4 knowing that ddr5 will just continue to get better and ddr4 support/development will start to fade as time goes on. I bought a 64 GB D5 kit and I have no qualms about it, and buying it MSRP at micro center was honestly not much more than a comparable 64 GB D4 kit for price, it was actually very close to the same. FWIW.

Any updates on one of the users here that stated they were buying a different bracket for the Optimus sign block to check mounting pressure for 1700?


----------



## doox00

I was able to get a 32gb kit of ddr5 corsair 5200 vengeance memory. It is not the kit I want to end up with but will hold me over until ddr5 stock becomes a thing and I can find something else. Just waiting on the Optimus gpu and cpu blocks I ordered to get here so I can build my new rig.


----------



## Section31

geriatricpollywog said:


> On one of his 10 hour-long Z690 motherboard videos, Buildzoid described how the through-hole capacitors on the Extreme are not as good as the polymer capacitors on the Apex.


Interesting. All overkill boards though. I almost bought the apex but ended up sticking with the hero, can’t justify the extra costs.


----------



## Paramedic10

doox00 said:


> I was able to get a 32gb kit of ddr5 corsair 5200 vengeance memory. It is not the kit I want to end up with but will hold me over until ddr5 stock becomes a thing and I can find something else. Just waiting on the Optimus gpu and cpu blocks I ordered to get here so I can build my new rig.


Yeah I'm waiting on the same. I have everything else I need, just waiting on optimus 🙄



Section31 said:


> Interesting. All overkill boards though. I almost bought the apex but ended up sticking with the hero, can’t justify the extra costs.


I went with the Z690 E-gaming, which has plenty for the typical user and works fine with all overclocking on air/water, but damn even these boards are expensive these days. 469 for this and I paid 220 for a Z390.


----------



## Section31

Paramedic10 said:


> Yeah I'm waiting on the same. I have everything else I need, just waiting on optimus 🙄
> 
> 
> 
> I went with the Z690 E-gaming, which has plenty for the typical user and works fine with all overclocking on air/water, but damn even these boards are expensive these days. 469 for this and I paid 220 for a Z390.


Asus in particular. Gigabyte, Msi are lot more affordable i found here. Asrock prices are the most reasonable. The Gigabyte z690 aorus master is approximately 110-120cad cheaper than the asus rog hero. The downside is the bios. The Asrock boards are all under 400cad with the weakness being the vrm/phase power weaker. Msi unify lineup is only 650cad.

Asrock and msi are running promos that drop the prices up to 50cad atm.


----------



## doox00

Paramedic10 said:


> Yeah I'm waiting on the same. I have everything else I need, just waiting on optimus 🙄
> 
> 
> 
> I went with the Z690 E-gaming, which has plenty for the typical user and works fine with all overclocking on air/water, but damn even these boards are expensive these days. 469 for this and I paid 220 for a Z390.


I have the Asus Z690 Formula board I'm using in my new build and a Z690 Hero for my wifes new build. Never figured the holdup would be waiting on water blocks and memory kits.


----------



## Section31

doox00 said:


> I have the Asus Z690 Formula board I'm using in my new build and a Z690 Hero for my wifes new build. Never figured the holdup would be waiting on water blocks and memory kits.


Consider yourself lucky you even can run your system at this point. Waterblock will come but memory is an guess literally


----------



## HyperMatrix

Paramedic10 said:


> I understand some of the arguments made for sticking with a D4 motherboard especially if you have some high-end D4 ram already and a lot of it, however my opinion says why handicap yourself?


Well…technically you’re handicapping yourself. You’re paying more money for a solution that is less effective, in the hopes of it pulling ahead in the future when next gen CPUs come out. Here’s my rebuttal:


- My motherboard costs $320, which makes it easily replaceable when the time arises.

- My gaming performance will be better in the vast majority of games. If you use your pc for other types of work that benefits more form memory bandwidth…then you have an argument. But as this is primarily for gaming, it would make no sense to go DDR5 just yet.

- Your motherboard isn’t actually futureproof. Next gen cpu will likely use the same socket, but you’re missing 2 key points about Z690. Limited PCIe 5.0 lanes. So right now you have to choose between PCIe 5.0 x16 for your GPU, or PCIe 5.0 x4 NVMe/PCIe 5.0 x8 PCIe if you want to concurrently run an NVMe and GPU on PCIe 5.0. Then there’s the matter of increased DDR5 speed compatibility. The roadmap leaks have shown increase in base DDR5 speed support. This may or may not matter depending on your board and kit.

I personally don’t like doing upgrades that give me lower performance, for the sake of it being slightly more convenience but then equally handicapped in the future. Especially since the DDR5 board I want to get, the Apex, is twice the price of the DDR4 board I got. Small cost today. Top performance today. Upgrade again when proper next gen motherboards out.


----------



## dwolvin

^This. I like that AMD has used the same socket for a long while, but never plan on a new CPU for the same MB later. I build best bang-for-the-buck when I build, and most of the time few items get recycled to the next build because the industry moves so fast.


----------



## acoustic

Edge0fsanity said:


> Went on Optimus's website this morning and noticed this. Haven't seen any announcements about this from them.
> 
> View attachment 2535062


Haha.. heard that "shipping this week" over a month ago lmao


----------



## chibi

Apex with DDR4 would be my choice of board for ADL. Ram manufacturers must have paid off the mobo guys to segregate top end with DDR5 haha.


----------



## LiquidHaus

acoustic said:


> Haha.. heard that "shipping this week" over a month ago lmao


Yeah...it's really screwing around my project schedule, that's for sure.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Well…technically you’re handicapping yourself. You’re paying more money for a solution that is less effective, in the hopes of it pulling ahead in the future when next gen CPUs come out. Here’s my rebuttal:
> 
> 
> - My motherboard costs $320, which makes it easily replaceable when the time arises.
> 
> - My gaming performance will be better in the vast majority of games. If you use your pc for other types of work that benefits more form memory bandwidth…then you have an argument. But as this is primarily for gaming, it would make no sense to go DDR5 just yet.
> 
> - Your motherboard isn’t actually futureproof. Next gen cpu will likely use the same socket, but you’re missing 2 key points about Z690. Limited PCIe 5.0 lanes. So right now you have to choose between PCIe 5.0 x16 for your GPU, or PCIe 5.0 x4 NVMe/PCIe 5.0 x8 PCIe if you want to concurrently run an NVMe and GPU on PCIe 5.0. Then there’s the matter of increased DDR5 speed compatibility. The roadmap leaks have shown increase in base DDR5 speed support. This may or may not matter depending on your board and kit.
> 
> I personally don’t like doing upgrades that give me lower performance, for the sake of it being slightly more convenience but then equally handicapped in the future. Especially since the DDR5 board I want to get, the Apex, is twice the price of the DDR4 board I got. Small cost today. Top performance today. Upgrade again when proper next gen motherboards out.


You are correct. I still think ddr4 has long life. Next gen raptorlake still has DDR4 option. Its going to be till meteorlake/amd equivalents i feel before ddr5 and pcie gen 5 stuff catches on.


----------



## Paramedic10

HyperMatrix said:


> Well…technically you’re handicapping yourself. You’re paying more money for a solution that is less effective, in the hopes of it pulling ahead in the future when next gen CPUs come out. Here’s my rebuttal:
> 
> - My motherboard costs $320, which makes it easily replaceable when the time arises.
> 
> - My gaming performance will be better in the vast majority of games. If you use your pc for other types of work that benefits more form memory bandwidth…then you have an argument. But as this is primarily for gaming, it would make no sense to go DDR5 just yet.
> 
> - Your motherboard isn’t actually futureproof. Next gen cpu will likely use the same socket, but you’re missing 2 key points about Z690. Limited PCIe 5.0 lanes. So right now you have to choose between PCIe 5.0 x16 for your GPU, or PCIe 5.0 x4 NVMe/PCIe 5.0 x8 PCIe if you want to concurrently run an NVMe and GPU on PCIe 5.0. Then there’s the matter of increased DDR5 speed compatibility. The roadmap leaks have shown increase in base DDR5 speed support. This may or may not matter depending on your board and kit.
> 
> I personally don’t like doing upgrades that give me lower performance, for the sake of it being slightly more convenience but then equally handicapped in the future. Especially since the DDR5 board I want to get, the Apex, is twice the price of the DDR4 board I got. Small cost today. Top performance today. Upgrade again when proper next gen motherboards out.


I wouldn't say upgrading platforms to a newer technology is "handicapping" myself. I would say it *does* allow for the potential of more performance as the technology improves down the road.

-My motherboard was $150 dollars more, which to me, isn't a big deal at all. (Some others may be more strapped for cash, however)

-Your gaming performance may be slightly better with *certain* titles. However a lot of these differences are by marginal percentages, and not actually noticeable when playing *most *titles. From my own experience going from D4 to D5, (as I actually have done this upgrade, versus what you may have read and compared with online from other sources) I have *subjectively* noticed absolutely ZERO negative impact with a higher latency D5 kit. I have *objectively* better frame times in VR which is what I do most in high fidelity combat flight simulation, and a smoother overall experiences in the games *that I play*. So YMMV. This will also be changing and getting even better as time goes forward as D5 technology matures.

-Never said anything about future proofing, I simply stated we *assume* D5 technology will make significant developmental milestones in the next 1-2 years easily, and this board will allow me to simply pop new and improved D5 RAM in and keep my board on 13th gen if I decided to upgrade at that juncture, versus doing a whole new motherboard build which requires a whole system teardown for a lot of people, especially if you have a complicated custom loop. It is significantly easier if your platform would already support this new tech and you wanted to get a newer, improved release of D5 RAM. As far as PCIe lanes are concerned, that depends on what you will have for NVMe. I'm sure new storage modules may also experience some growing pains when they are released under gen 5 PCIe. Additionally, there have been numerous test that show the difference in gaming performance on x8 vs x16 is 1% on average, if that. Granted, this stat I pulled from GN testing on Gen 3, but it should be a similar result, and not a deal breaker. Keep in mind PCIe 5.0 x8 still has double the bandwidth as PCIe 3.0 does on X16, so with the performance scaling of GPUs today, I would imagine these tests repeated under gen 5 conditions would net the same ~1% difference.

-My upgrades from 32gb D4 on 9900k 5.2ghz up to 64gb D5 12900k at 5.4ghz certainly was not an upgrade that lowered my performance, has not handicapped be for the future (on the contrary), and I was lucky to not have to hunt or pay scalp prices for D5, so for me, it was a no brainer.

I do see the attraction with sticking with D4, primarily if cost is a factor, but also for parts availability. Price isn't the leading factor in my choices and builds, I had access to it on launch day. It also is totally on a case to case basis, and you have some good reasons for sticking with your setup on D4 for now, but for me, the D5 option was the clear choice for everything I noted above. I respect your opinion and it certainly is the more cost effective solution as of now, but we all have different priorities and needs.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> You are correct. I still think ddr4 has long life. Next gen raptorlake still has DDR4 option. Its going to be till meteorlake/amd equivalents i feel before ddr5 and pcie gen 5 stuff catches on.


If RTX IO/DX12 DirectStorage actually works....then PCIe 5 adoption will be much quicker than any previous generational upgrade.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Paramedic10 said:


> -Your gaming performance may be slightly better with *certain* titles. However a lot of these differences are by marginal percentages, and not actually noticeable when playing *most *titles. From my own experience going from D4 to D5, (as I actually have done this upgrade, versus what you may have read and compared with online from other sources) I have *subjectively* noticed absolutely ZERO negative impact with a higher latency D5 kit. I have *objectively* better frame times in VR which is what I do most in high fidelity combat flight simulation, and a smoother overall experiences in the games *that I play*. So YMMV. This will also be changing and getting even better as time goes forward as D5 technology matures.


That's a false comparison. I'm not advocating for staying on a 9900K with whatever DDR4 memory you had. I have a 12900KF. And DDR4 4000 CL14 memory. You're saying you have objectively better frame rates. Yes. 12900K with slow DDR5 is still superior to 9900K with DDR4. No one is disputing that. What we're talking about is whether that same 12900K, with DDR4 4000 CL14 T1 in Gear 1 is superior to 12900k with the best DDR5 currently available. And in the vast majority of games, the answer is yes. 12900K with high end DDR4 is superior.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> If RTX IO/DX12 DirectStorage actually works....then PCIe 5 adoption will be much quicker than any previous generational upgrade.


Its hard to predict thats for sure. I have that issue when buying nvme lol. Its the thing holding me back from buying 2tb gen 4 nvme drives.


----------



## Paramedic10

HyperMatrix said:


> That's a false comparison. I'm not advocating for staying on a 9900K with whatever DDR4 memory you had. I have a 12900KF. And DDR4 4000 CL14 memory. You're saying you have objectively better frame rates. Yes. 12900K with slow DDR5 is still superior to 9900K with DDR4. No one is disputing that. What we're talking about is whether that same 12900K, with DDR4 4000 CL14 T1 in Gear 1 is superior to 12900k with the best DDR5 currently available. And in the vast majority of games, the answer is yes. 12900K with high end DDR4 is superior.


I'm advocating my case and situation for me. And I'll say it again, even if a high end, fully matured D4 combo may be "superior" compared with a brand new D5 kit in its infancy, the differences are generally miniscule.

Also, 64 gb of D4 4000 CL14 is how much? I can't even find 64gb kits of D4 on newegg right now that are 3600+ speed for under $500 for low latency kits. I got my D5 stuff for $450. So besides the increased motherboard price, this isn't much of a difference at the moment.

This is a pretty interesting lineup too. Just for a fun review, it does show that low latency D4 is comparable plus or minus a few % to the newest D5 kits, but nothing majorly obvious to call it superior across the board.









DDR5 Memory Performance Scaling with Alder Lake Core i9-12900K


In this article, we take a closer look at the performance scaling you can expect for various DDR5 configurations. We test from DDR5-6000 all the way down to DDR5-2400 and compare CL30 vs. CL36 vs. CL40. Last but not least, we also consider these numbers in relation to what DDR4-3600 offers.




www.techpowerup.com


----------



## Section31

Paramedic10 said:


> I'm advocating my case and situation for me. And I'll say it again, even if a high end, fully matured D4 combo may be "superior" compared with a brand new D5 kit in its infancy, the differences are generally miniscule.
> 
> Also, 64 gb of D4 4000 CL14 is how much? I can't even find 64gb kits of D4 on newegg right now that are 3600+ speed for under $500 for low latency kits. I got my D5 stuff for $450. So besides the increased motherboard price, this isn't much of a difference at the moment.
> 
> This is a pretty interesting lineup too. Just for a fun review, it does show that low latency D4 is comparable plus or minus a few % to the newest D5 kits, but nothing majorly obvious to call it superior across the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DDR5 Memory Performance Scaling with Alder Lake Core i9-12900K
> 
> 
> In this article, we take a closer look at the performance scaling you can expect for various DDR5 configurations. We test from DDR5-6000 all the way down to DDR5-2400 and compare CL30 vs. CL36 vs. CL40. Last but not least, we also consider these numbers in relation to what DDR4-3600 offers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techpowerup.com


It is. In the end you make your best decision though. If we were all thinking with our brains, most of us don’t need 12900k and alderlake upgrades. I probably could go aircooled 12600/5600g at this point and still be fine.


----------



## Paramedic10

Section31 said:


> It is. In the end you make your best decision though. If we were all thinking with our brains, most of us don’t need 12900k and alderlake upgrades. I probably could go aircooled 12600/5600g at this point and still be fine.


Truer words never spoken!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Paramedic10 said:


> This is a pretty interesting lineup too. Just for a fun review, it does show that low latency D4 is comparable plus or minus a few % to the newest D5 kits, but nothing majorly obvious to call it superior across the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DDR5 Memory Performance Scaling with Alder Lake Core i9-12900K
> 
> 
> In this article, we take a closer look at the performance scaling you can expect for various DDR5 configurations. We test from DDR5-6000 all the way down to DDR5-2400 and compare CL30 vs. CL36 vs. CL40. Last but not least, we also consider these numbers in relation to what DDR4-3600 offers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techpowerup.com


Problem with that setup is that it only goes up to 3600MHz CL16, which is a mid-range DDR4 setup. Top end DDR4 4000MHz CL14 has 27% lower latency and 11% higher bandwidth compared to the kit used here. Even with their mediocre DDR4 memory, they beat out all the other DDR5 memory and came within 0.7% of the DDR5 6000 CL36 kit. Remember, the question hasn't been about general DDR4 vs DDR5 or mediocre DDR4 vs high end DDR5. It was a question of whether someone who has high end DDR4 would gain or lose FPS by spending money on DDR5. Especially since only basic DDR5 sticks are available today. 

Even that mediocre DDR4 3600 CL16 set had 4% higher FPS than the base 4800MHz CL40 DDR5 kits. But...was only 0.3% higher FPS than that same 4800MHz kit at CL30. And that 4800MHz CL30 kit was 0.2% faster than the 5600MHz CL36 kit. Showing just how important latency is for gaming. Hence why 4000MHz CL14 DDR4 being the current sweet spot for gaming. 

Keep in mind...argument was never even around which kit you should buy. But about whether it's worth switching to DDR5 if you currently have very good DDR4 memory. And based on the link you shared (thank you for that, btw) you can see there's no benefit in moving to DDR5 for gaming.


----------



## D-EJ915

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> To the guys owning the 12900K
> 
> Would you say it’s worth upgrading from a 5900x or previous last gen Intel CPU’S,or should I wait for next gen and sit this one out?
> I’m thinking about switching over because my pc is 80% for gaming and it’s easier to tweak etc…then the 5900x and AMD’s.
> 
> If yes,how are the DDR5’s because they’re new? Which one is the best currently and which motherboard is recommended if money isn’t a problem?
> 
> I’ve read reviews but it’s kinda all over the place,for some it’s buggy others say it’s great…a bug here and there isn’t a issue I just need it for stable gaming and not crash every 15min


I don't think it is worthwhile to upgrade for a 5900x personally unless you just want to play with it which then sure go ahead if you have the spare cash.


----------



## bscool

Paramedic10 said:


> I'm advocating my case and situation for me. And I'll say it again, even if a high end, fully matured D4 combo may be "superior" compared with a brand new D5 kit in its infancy, the differences are generally miniscule.
> 
> Also, 64 gb of D4 4000 CL14 is how much? I can't even find 64gb kits of D4 on newegg right now that are 3600+ speed for under $500 for low latency kits. I got my D5 stuff for $450. So besides the increased motherboard price, this isn't much of a difference at the moment.
> 
> This is a pretty interesting lineup too. Just for a fun review, it does show that low latency D4 is comparable plus or minus a few % to the newest D5 kits, but nothing majorly obvious to call it superior across the board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DDR5 Memory Performance Scaling with Alder Lake Core i9-12900K
> 
> 
> In this article, we take a closer look at the performance scaling you can expect for various DDR5 configurations. We test from DDR5-6000 all the way down to DDR5-2400 and compare CL30 vs. CL36 vs. CL40. Last but not least, we also consider these numbers in relation to what DDR4-3600 offers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techpowerup.com


Bro I cant find 8gb of ddr5 anywhere  Ok I lied I can on ebay for a small fee


----------



## Section31

bscool said:


> Bro I cant find 8gb of ddr5 anywhere  Ok I lied I can on ebay for a small fee


I feel likely by summer ddr5 should be in stock better. If you have kit your lucky or can attempt to sell it for big profit atm. As long as you don’t mind an pc gathering dust.

There might be an situation where you could resell your ddr5 based alderlake setup for massive profits then just rebuild it based on newest stuff if shortage continues


----------



## cptclutch

Is there a preferred orientation for the foundation block on 12th gen? Running mine goofy currently with the direct die 10900K. I assume rotating it to the standard vertical orientation would work better?


----------



## Section31

cptclutch said:


> Is there a preferred orientation for the foundation block on 12th gen? Running mine goofy currently with the direct die 10900K. I assume rotating it to the standard vertical orientation would work better?


Regular is better idea imo


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus trolling.


----------



## Paramedic10

Kpe block?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Paramedic10 said:


> Kpe block?


Yes sir. But just label generated so far. Until UPS actually picks it up…I’m not ready to believe. Lol.


----------



## Paramedic10

HyperMatrix said:


> Yes sir. But just label generated so far. Until UPS actually picks it up…I’m not ready to believe. Lol.


Haha yeah we've all seen the song and dance of creating a label 3 weeks before the product is actually ready to go out the door. Keep us posted

When did you place your order?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Paramedic10 said:


> Haha yeah we've all seen the song and dance of creating a label 3 weeks before the product is actually ready to go out the door. Keep us posted
> 
> When did you place your order?


I was somewhere between 5th and 8th place in line. Order 5214. Based on other people reporting if they got a shipping notification and what their order number was, we can get a better sense of how large the first batch is.


----------



## Paramedic10

HyperMatrix said:


> I was somewhere between 5th and 8th place in line. Order 5214. Based on other people reporting if they got a shipping notification and what their order number was, we can get a better sense of how large the first batch is.


When it actually starts moving ( it's actually a finished product in route to the customer) I will feel a little bit better regardless of my place in line which is probably closer to the end as I placed my order 3-4 weeks ago or so. At least at this point we will know the product is complete and they are making them and not designing or testing.


----------



## chibi

They're for real and shipping!


__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1466839160430284803


----------



## HyperMatrix

chibi said:


> They're for real and shipping!
> 
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1466839160430284803


It’s just too bad they didn’t use black screws. I requested it months ago from them and they said they’d try to find some. Guessing they weren’t able to. But I find it really takes away from the stealth look. But I’m about to get smacked for complaining about this right now when they’re finally shipping after 5 months. Lol.


----------



## iamjanco

HyperMatrix said:


> It’s just too bad they didn’t use black screws. I requested it months ago from them and they said they’d try to find some. Guessing they weren’t able to. But I find it really takes away from the stealth look. But I’m about to get smacked for complaining about this right now when they’re finally shipping after 5 months. Lol.


While it might be a pita (and extra expense) that could have been avoided, you could always source the black screws yourself. It's a fair bet they wouldn't be that difficult to find.


----------



## chibi

Hit up McMaster Carr or Fastenal and you'll get your black screws in no time


----------



## HyperMatrix

iamjanco said:


> While it might be a pita (and extra expense) that could have been avoided, you could always source the black screws yourself. It's a fair bet they wouldn't be that difficult to find.


I should have clarified. I meant I suggested to them that all of their black blocks that come with black gaskets should also be switched to black screws. They said availability of screws may be an issue but they'd look into it. But yeah I'll definitely try looking for replacements for my own block. Would be a shame to leave it as is, especially when vertical mounting.


----------



## tbrown7552

HyperMatrix said:


> It’s just too bad they didn’t use black screws. I requested it months ago from them and they said they’d try to find some. Guessing they weren’t able to. But I find it really takes away from the stealth look. But I’m about to get smacked for complaining about this right now when they’re finally shipping after 5 months. Lol.


I fully intend on having the heads on mine plated gold.


----------



## HyperMatrix

tbrown7552 said:


> I fully intend on having the heads on mine plated gold.


Yeah that coulda been really nice too. Make sure to post pics.


----------



## criskoe

HyperMatrix said:


> I should have clarified. I meant I suggested to them that all of their black blocks that come with black gaskets should also be switched to black screws. They said availability of screws may be an issue but they'd look into it. But yeah I'll definitely try looking for replacements for my own block. Would be a shame to leave it as is, especially when vertical mounting.


i Painted the heads of my screws with some acrylic enamel and a small brush. Was a little tedious and took some time but came out absolutely perfect.

I did it when the card was apart and I was wrapping the block with matte black vinyl so it wasn’t hard.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Optimus trolling.
> View attachment 2535474
> 
> View attachment 2535479


You should just try to flip it honestly at this point lol. Bound to be some guy who desperately wants it.

Blocks looking nice. Hope they implement it in non kpe block in the future


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> You should just try to flip it honestly at this point lol. *Bound to be some guy who desperately wants it.*
> 
> Blocks looking nice. Hope they implement it in non kpe block in the future


Me. I'm that guy. I desperately need this block. Lol.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Me. I'm that guy. I desperately need this block. Lol.


Going to look nice in your rig then. I heard some crazy stuff that always tempts me to resell my rig (based on my low usage). People are paying 1000usd on caselabs s8s lol.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> Going to look nice in your rig then. I heard some crazy stuff that always tempts me to resell my rig lol. People are paying 1000usd on caselabs s8s lol.


3090i rumors? Haha. Yeah. Not sure if I’d be willing to sell this guy and try to bin another 3090. That was quite the ordeal. Looking forward to finally opening her up wide with 1000W 2205MHz+ daily clocks and maybe some extra memory voltage to get it up to 23-24GHz. A bit optimistic. But if there’s anyway to do it, Optimus block in winter will be able to do it.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> 3090i rumors? Haha. Yeah. Not sure if I’d be willing to sell this guy and try to bin another 3090. That was quite the ordeal. Looking forward to finally opening her up wide with 1000W 2205MHz+ daily clocks and maybe some extra memory voltage to get it up to 23-24GHz. A bit optimistic. But if there’s anyway to do it, Optimus block in winter will be able to do it.


Tell us your results in the Canadian winter. For next gen gpu, i think i will go active optimus block too.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> 3090i rumors? Haha. Yeah. Not sure if I’d be willing to sell this guy and try to bin another 3090. That was quite the ordeal. Looking forward to finally opening her up wide with 1000W 2205MHz+ daily clocks and maybe some extra memory voltage to get it up to 23-24GHz. A bit optimistic. But if there’s anyway to do it, Optimus block in winter will be able to do it.


I'm trying to finish up the bulk of my remaining projects by April. Then onto other full time tasks that will occupy all my free time. The custom keyboard keeps on getting hit by shipping delays, etc lol. Only exception being the RAM issue but that is easy install whenever they come into stock.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Yeah lets ping @Optimus WC what are those KPE screw specs? I'm down to order some black oxide versions of what I'm assuming are SS.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

LiquidHaus said:


> Yeah lets ping @Optimus WC what are those KPE screw specs? I'm down to order some black oxide versions of what I'm assuming are SS.


I think they should’ve added that from the start tbh,full black would look sick…Maybe you can in a store bring one with you and ask or look it up yourself idk might be worth a try if Optimus doesn’t reply


P.S. @HyperMatrix battle my Strix 3090 OC…I’ve managed to hit the 12 best spot on 3dMark. I think with cooler temps now (as you can see was done beginning of September) I can manage to squeeze a bit more. The 1000W KP bios flash runs the Strix nicely,this was with a core clock at +235 and mem clock +1480.
I’ll have a new try on it with now cooler temps,just for fun to see how much I can push it?! 🙂

I can push more on clock but then mem has to be lower I think,if I push the mem up to +1650-1750 I think the core can’t handle more then +220ish at the same time. Will have to try tho…
I managed to get a 15516 score but idk why it didn’t approve it? So it doesn’t count


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> Yeah lets ping @Optimus WC what are those KPE screw specs? I'm down to order some black oxide versions of what I'm assuming are SS.


Ace Hardware


ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I think they should’ve added that from the start tbh,full black would look sick…Maybe you can in a store bring one with you and ask or look it up yourself idk might be worth a try if Optimus doesn’t reply
> 
> 
> P.S. @HyperMatrix battle my Strix 3090 OC…I’ve managed to hit the 12 best spot on 3dMark. I think with cooler temps now (as you can see was done beginning of September) I can manage to squeeze a bit more. The 1000W KP bios flash runs the Strix nicely,this was with a core clock at +235 and mem clock +1480.
> I’ll have a new try on it with now cooler temps,just for fun to see how much I can push it?! 🙂
> 
> I can push more on clock but then mem has to be lower I think,if I push the mem up to +1650-1750 I think the core can’t handle more then +220ish at the same time. Will have to try tho…
> I managed to get a 15516 score but idk why it didn’t approve it? So it doesn’t count
> 
> View attachment 2535637


Is that Port Royal filtered to 5900X/3090?

Try running it with ReBar enabled in NV Profile Inspect


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

geriatricpollywog said:


> Ace Hardware
> 
> Is that Port Royal filtered to 5900X/3090?
> 
> Try running it with ReBar enabled in NV Profile Inspect


Yup,Port Royal filtered and you’re right ReBar isn’t play nicely with RDR2 so I disabled it for the time being. I’ll reenable it and play around. Haven’t really pushed it last 2-3 months,probably won’t get anything significant because the water temps are 7-8 cooler now but lets see


----------



## geriatricpollywog

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Yup,Port Royal filtered and you’re right ReBar isn’t play nicely with RDR2 so I disabled it for the time being. I’ll reenable it and play around. Haven’t really pushed it last 2-3 months,probably won’t get anything significant because the water temps are 7-8 cooler now but lets see


You can enable it for specific aps/games in the drop down. Or you cN enae globally by default.


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I think they should’ve added that from the start tbh,full black would look sick…Maybe you can in a store bring one with you and ask or look it up yourself idk might be worth a try if Optimus doesn’t reply
> 
> 
> P.S. @HyperMatrix battle my Strix 3090 OC…I’ve managed to hit the 12 best spot on 3dMark. I think with cooler temps now (as you can see was done beginning of September) I can manage to squeeze a bit more. The 1000W KP bios flash runs the Strix nicely,this was with a core clock at +235 and mem clock +1480.
> I’ll have a new try on it with now cooler temps,just for fun to see how much I can push it?! 🙂
> 
> I can push more on clock but then mem has to be lower I think,if I push the mem up to +1650-1750 I think the core can’t handle more then +220ish at the same time. Will have to try tho…
> I managed to get a 15516 score but idk why it didn’t approve it? So it doesn’t count
> 
> View attachment 2535637


If all you got was 15600 you’ll be in trouble. I already hit 15300 last year with my AIO and stock bios, and on my old cpu. I forget if it was with the 6950x or 10900k. Will be interesting to see how far I can push it when properly cooled for sure. We’ll hopefully find out this week! I was able to complete a run at 2190MHz locked with the AIO and a ram block placed on the back, without exceeding the 520W limit. So if Optimus marketing on block performance and 1000W bios come into play….

btw, do you know where I can grab the rebar version of the 1000W bios? Currently just have the older one.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> If all you got was 15600 you’ll be in trouble. I already hit 15300 last year with my AIO and stock bios, and on my old cpu. I forget if it was with the 6950x or 10900k. Will be interesting to see how far I can push it when properly cooled for sure. We’ll hopefully find out this week! I was able to complete a run at 2190MHz locked with the AIO and a ram block placed on the back, without exceeding the 520W limit. So if Optimus marketing on block performance and 1000W bios come into play….
> 
> btw, do you know where I can grab the rebar version of the 1000W bios? Currently just have the older one.


Yes,I can send you a link for the 1000W KP BIOS but guess what f*$cker? I WONT!

I’m not stupid letting you get a better score then mine



When I get home I’ll send you the link,give me 2-3h


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Remember, with the Optimus Kingpin block, you should easily surpass my 3DMark scores which were achieved (I use that term loosely) with the garbage Hydrocopper block. The Hydrocopper block is not even really copper. It’s mostly melted down lead and Chinese newspaper. It’s so bad that even a passive heatsink or bare die with a Delta fan should outperform it.









I scored 47 297 in Fire Strike


Intel Core i9-12900K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}




www.3dmark.com













I scored 16 334 in Port Royal


Intel Core i7-12700K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}




www.3dmark.com


----------



## HyperMatrix

geriatricpollywog said:


> Remember, with the Optimus Kingpin block, you should easily surpass my 3DMark scores which were achieved (I use that term loosely) with the garbage Hydrocopper block. The Hydrocopper block is not even really copper. It’s mostly melted down lead and Chinese newspaper. It’s so bad that even a passive heatsink or bare die with a Delta fan should outperform it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I scored 47 297 in Fire Strike
> 
> 
> Intel Core i9-12900K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.3dmark.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I scored 16 334 in Port Royal
> 
> 
> Intel Core i7-12700K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.3dmark.com


Wait…since when does cooling overcome bin quality? Anything you achieve will have been because of your bin. You could have gotten the same score with a bykski block. And a higher score with Optimus, assuming KPE block does indeed perform even better than their FTW3 blocks.

I will never retract my statement on the EVGA KP $300 garbage block being overpriced garbage that doesn’t even come with a backplate so you can mount a ram block for cooling without voiding your warranty. Why you would defend them I have no idea. Pound for pound…you paid more for your block than I paid for the Optimus block.

You’re also completely omitting the fact that you’re running 4133MHz CL14 1T Gear 1 memory and ram your bench with e-cores disabled so you could run 5.5GHz on your P cores.

Basically you’re intentionally ignoring every single other factor in the comparison and trying to boil down the differences to the block because you’re still upset that months ago I said a $300 garbage block is garbage and overpriced.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> Wait…since when does cooling overcome bin quality? Anything you achieve will have been because of your bin. You could have gotten the same score with a bykski block. And a higher score with Optimus, assuming KPE block does indeed perform even better than their FTW3 blocks.


Back in my street racing days, I would often encounter "ricers" who would make "ricer excuses." I would hear a Honda Civic with a loud exhaust from 2 miles away peeling his tires and bouncing off the rev-limiter. When I encounter him at a stoplight, he starts making "ricer excuses" to get out the race *before we even start.*

My current 3090 Kingpin is actually my second card. I had to RMA the first one. On water, the core performs identically to my first card, to the mhz. the memory is about 10mhz faster, bur still under 1400mhz, so average at best. Also, the core is a scratched-out GA-102-250. If anything, its a silicon loser.



HyperMatrix said:


> I will never retract my statement on the EVGA KP $300 garbage block being overpriced garbage that doesn’t even come with a backplate so you can mount a ram block for cooling without voiding your warranty. Why you would defend them I have no idea. Pound for pound…you paid more for your block than I paid for the Optimus block.


Copium is a helluva drug.



HyperMatrix said:


> You’re also completely omitting the fact that you’re running 4133MHz CL14 1T Gear 1 memory and ram your bench with e-cores disabled so you could run 5.5GHz on your P cores.


This might help in Fire Strike, but it makes no difference in Port Royal. I could run it on my old 10700K and the score would be the same.



HyperMatrix said:


> Basically you’re intentionally ignoring every single other factor in the comparison and trying to boil down the differences to the block because you’re still upset that months ago I said a $300 garbage block is garbage and overpriced.


I've been enjoying my watercooled card since April, so there's really nothing for me to be upset about. I actually hope that anybody who paid good money for their block gets good performance. I already know I am.


----------



## HyperMatrix

geriatricpollywog said:


> Back in my street racing days, I would often encounter "ricers" who would make "ricer excuses." I would hear a Honda Civic with a loud exhaust from 2 miles away peeling his tires and bouncing off the rev-limiter. When I encounter him at a stoplight, he starts making "ricer excuses" to get out the race *before we even start.*


Putting the racism aside....I'm not making "excuses," I'm simply pointing out the fact that you're comparing completely different things. It's like comparing the performance of 2 engines with no consideration to the turbo/supercharger/intake/exhaust/downpipe/intercooler/meth/nos/tune/etc. And regardless of the difference in those setups, you're trying to somehow equate the final power output of the car on simply the engine. Even though that's clearly not the only factor.

You're being clearly disingenuous in your statements. Basically I said the EVGA block is garbage. And you're saying "nuh uh. the overall score my non-identical system gets is singularly indicative of the performance of your block vs mine."


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

@HyperMatrix 

Here you go,this is the one I use









EVGA RTX 3090 VBIOS


24 GB GDDR6X, 1395 MHz GPU, 1219 MHz Memory




www.techpowerup.com


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

geriatricpollywog said:


> You can enable it for specific aps/games in the drop down. Or you cN enae globally by default.



I might be somewhat stupid but please tell me in which drop down menu can I enable/disable ReBar?
GeForce Experience or Control Panel?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> Putting the racism aside....I'm not making "excuses," I'm simply pointing out the fact that you're comparing completely different things. It's like comparing the performance of 2 engines with no consideration to the turbo/supercharger/intake/exhaust/downpipe/intercooler/meth/nos/tune/etc. And regardless of the difference in those setups, you're trying to somehow equate the final power output of the car on simply the engine. Even though that's clearly not the only factor.
> 
> You're being clearly disingenuous in your statements. Basically I said the EVGA block is garbage. And you're saying "nuh uh. the overall score my non-identical system gets is singularly indicative of the performance of your block vs mine."


I'd like to inform you that while Fire Strike scales with CPU and RAM, Port Royal doesn't. If you run your Kingpin and I run my Kingpin, the colder one will win. This assumes you know how to move the sliders, but I can help you with that for comparison's sake.



ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I might be somewhat stupid but please tell me in which drop down menu can I enable/disable ReBar?
> GeForce Experience or Control Panel?


Download Nvidia Profile Inspector. Scroll down to "Unknown." Set F00BA, F00BB, and F00FF to the only option in the dropdown menu.


----------



## HyperMatrix

geriatricpollywog said:


> 'd like to inform you that while Fire Strike scales with CPU and RAM, Port Royal doesn't. If you run your Kingpin and I run my Kingpin, the colder one will win.


I’d like to inform you that this is completely incorrect. I got different scores moving from my 6950x to 10900k and to 11900k. While it’s not a heavily CPU dependent benchmark, a 1% difference in scores is 150+ points. So it becomes easily noticeable.

Secondly….no. Kingpin vs kingpin isn’t about the colder one winning. What on earth is wrong with you? Why are you being like this? How the heck can you make such a ridiculous statement? GPU BINNING IS THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR. Cooling just determines how much of your card’s potential can be realized. I can’t believe I have to explain that to you. I’m assuming you’re just trolling at this point?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> I’d like to inform you that this is completely incorrect. I got different scores moving from my 6950x to 10900k and to 11900k. While it’s not a heavily CPU dependent benchmark, a 1% difference in scores is 150+ points. So it becomes easily noticeable.
> 
> Secondly….no. Kingpin vs kingpin isn’t about the colder one winning. What on earth is wrong with you? Why are you being like this? How the heck can you make such a ridiculous statement? GPU BINNING IS THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR. Cooling just determines how much of your card’s potential can be realized. I can’t believe I have to explain that to you. I’m assuming you’re just trolling at this point?


I am only trying to help you understand how the Port Royal benchmark works. It doesn't scale with CPU or RAM clocks.

Here is my 11900K running in safe boot:
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 video card benchmark result - Intel Core i9-11900K Processor,ASRock Z590 OC Formula (3dmark.com)

And 3090 Kingpins are all kind of the same. How does that make you feel? It shouldn't make you angry, rather it should make you optimistic for the potential of your card in the hands of a skilled user.


----------



## HyperMatrix

"3090 Kingpins are all kind of the same. " 

Are you ****ing kidding me? f*ck this. I'm blocking this idiot. Starting to lose brain cells reading his idiotic comments.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

I love this place!

There's always entertainment,you go away for one sec come back to beef...I LOVE IT!
Atleast you got your blocks guys,@HyperMatrix make sure to post your OC results I'm really curious to see your results against mine and if the KP is that much better then the Strix 3090. If you don't want to post here DM me


----------



## acoustic

geriatricpollywog said:


> And 3090 Kingpins are all kind of the same. How does that make you feel? It shouldn't make you angry, rather it should make you optimistic for the potential of your card in the hands of a skilled user.


I mean, they are binned better than any other card, but I wouldn't say they are all kind of the same. You've got two awesome samples. I've seen some pretty dogshit Kingpins that can lose to a 3090 STRIX when both are on 1000w BIOS - there's still silicon lottery, it's just not as large of a range.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

acoustic said:


> I've seen some pretty dogshit Kingpins that can lose to a 3090 STRIX when both are on 1000w BIOS.


My RMAd Kingpin had apprx 0.5mm of dried paste on the die.

As such, I trust my own experience when it comes to silicon quality. It scraped off thick.


----------



## acoustic

Your experience is limited to two samples.. can you really say that's enough to validate an opinion that goes against a fact that has been true since.... forever?

The results I seen of crappy KPs in P.R. weren't from high temps. Average temp seemed quite normal for an ambient cooling scenario. To be fair, I'm not going to waste time to dig and find results to back what I'm saying .. so believe what you'd like, lol.


----------



## elbramso

So finally my optimus KPE block is on its way! Almost canceled the order tbh^^

I'm currently running the HC Kit but the cooling performance has never been able to meet my expectations. 
I was able to score 16k in PR with the HC Kit installed although it could barely keep the card below 43c during the run (water temp at the start 17c). 
In regards of all KPE cards being the same... nope that's definitely not the case ;-) 
My first KPE card was barely able to hit 15k score but outperformed my RMA card in regards of memory OC. To compare apples to apples, both cards had the hybrid kit installed and the RMA card scored 500pts higher... 
Regardless what the card is able to do with normal cooling, LN2 could have been a different story...


----------



## dng25

Did Optimus change their design on the kingpin for access to the dip switches?


----------



## elbramso

dng25 said:


> Did Optimus change their design on the kingpin for access to the dip switches?


From what I know, the backplate will cover the switches completely. You have to set the switches before you mount the block.


----------



## dng25

elbramso said:


> From what I know, the backplate will cover the switches completely. You have to set the switches before you mount the block.












Didn't see this opening in any of the previous renderings.


----------



## Kana Chan

What kind of GDDR6X mem bandwidth do you guys have atm?


----------



## elbramso

dng25 said:


> View attachment 2535720
> 
> 
> Didn't see this opening in any of the previous renderings.


They might have changed their mind ;-) 
On the website it still states the the block will cover the switches.


----------



## dng25

elbramso said:


> They might have changed their mind ;-)
> On the website it still states the the block will cover the switches.


Ah never mind it's for the LCD screen


----------



## jura11

@ForestWhitakersGoodEye

There are two Kingpin XOC 1000W BIOS, one with ReBAR and one without it, with ReBAR you should be able pass 16k on your 3090 Strix every day

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## dng25

jura11 said:


> @ForestWhitakersGoodEye
> 
> There are two Kingpin XOC 1000W BIOS, one with ReBAR and one without it, with ReBAR you should be able pass 16k on your 3090 Strix every day
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Where do you get the 1000W rebar bios?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

acoustic said:


> Your experience is limited to two samples.. can you really say that's enough to validate an opinion that goes against a fact that has been true since.... forever?
> 
> The results I seen of crappy KPs in P.R. weren't from high temps. Average temp seemed quite normal for an ambient cooling scenario. To be fair, I'm not going to waste time to dig and find results to back what I'm saying .. so believe what you'd like, lol.


Even Vince said on the GN/Jays2Cents livestream that all GA-102 dies are pretty much the same, with the occasional freak. Any time I've had bad performing card, re-mounting has always fixed it. But if someone chooses to believe their Kingpin is bad without trying to improve it, more leaderboard for me.

It's really their own abilities they doubt. I can't fix that.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

jura11 said:


> @ForestWhitakersGoodEye
> 
> There are two Kingpin XOC 1000W BIOS, one with ReBAR and one without it, with ReBAR you should be able pass 16k on your 3090 Strix every day
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


I’m using this one and it’s the 1000W Kingpin with ReBar but with my CPU 5900x and Strix 3090 OC there’s no way in hell I can get anything close to 16K on PortRoyal?
Am I missing something or….?because this isn’t bragging I don’t give a **** about scores but with 15501 I’m the 12th with my scomponents. The ones above me are all around the same except the 1st place guy he’s 200ish more like 15700something. So nobody managed to go 16K with a 5900x and Strix 3090 OC.

What I noticed in HWInfo is even when everything is cranked up power/voltagewise my GPU never exceeds 450ish power usage?
Is that normal or am I not doing something right? I’m using MSI Afterburner Beta and voltage/power are enabled to max,so I’m not sure what else can I do if that’s what’s hindering mine to go higher?


EDIT : This is the Kingpin 1000W with ReBar BIOS I’ve flashed









EVGA RTX 3090 VBIOS


24 GB GDDR6X, 1395 MHz GPU, 1219 MHz Memory




www.techpowerup.com


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I’m using this one and it’s the 1000W Kingpin with ReBar but with my CPU 5900x and Strix 3090 OC there’s no way in hell I can get anything close to 16K on PortRoyal?
> Am I missing something or….?because this isn’t bragging I don’t give a **** about scores but with 15501 I’m the 12th with my scomponents. The ones above me are all around the same except the 1st place guy he’s 200ish more like 15700something. So nobody managed to go 16K with a 5900x and Strix 3090 OC.
> 
> What I noticed in HWInfo is even when everything is cranked up power/voltagewise my GPU never exceeds 450ish power usage?
> Is that normal or am I not doing something right? I’m using MSI Afterburner Beta and voltage/power are enabled to max,so I’m not sure what else can I do if that’s what’s hindering mine to go higher?
> 
> 
> EDIT : This is the Kingpin 1000W with ReBar BIOS I’ve flashed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA RTX 3090 VBIOS
> 
> 
> 24 GB GDDR6X, 1395 MHz GPU, 1219 MHz Memory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techpowerup.com


Despite what that goofball was saying earlier, cpu definitely does have an impact on your score. Intel does outscore AMD in port royal. And my 6950x scored 700 points less than my 10900k. So there are a lot of variables at play in determining the final score in port royal.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> Despite what that goofball was saying earlier, cpu definitely does have an impact on your score. Intel does outscore AMD in port royal. And my 6950x scored 700 points less than my 10900k. So there are a lot of variables at play in determining the final score in port royal.



This was a score from the 21st Nov but because of this **** thing LOD (Level of Detail???) it didn't register it as a valid score not sure what that is?

But this is how it looks,my 5900x is OC'd on PBO and only 1 core doesn't boost up to 5Ghz,so I'm not sure what else I can do to get anything near 16K on PortRoyal.
Any suggestions,improvements are appreciated. Not that I care about any of these scores but it's fun tuning it and seeing what's the max.









I scored 15 503 in Port Royal


AMD Ryzen 9 5900X, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 11}




www.3dmark.com


----------



## jura11

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I’m using this one and it’s the 1000W Kingpin with ReBar but with my CPU 5900x and Strix 3090 OC there’s no way in hell I can get anything close to 16K on PortRoyal?
> Am I missing something or….?because this isn’t bragging I don’t give a **** about scores but with 15501 I’m the 12th with my scomponents. The ones above me are all around the same except the 1st place guy he’s 200ish more like 15700something. So nobody managed to go 16K with a 5900x and Strix 3090 OC.
> 
> What I noticed in HWInfo is even when everything is cranked up power/voltagewise my GPU never exceeds 450ish power usage?
> Is that normal or am I not doing something right? I’m using MSI Afterburner Beta and voltage/power are enabled to max,so I’m not sure what else can I do if that’s what’s hindering mine to go higher?
> 
> 
> EDIT : This is the Kingpin 1000W with ReBar BIOS I’ve flashed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA RTX 3090 VBIOS
> 
> 
> 24 GB GDDR6X, 1395 MHz GPU, 1219 MHz Memory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techpowerup.com


Hi there

Same BIOS I'm using on my as well and I scored with that BIOS on my Palit RTX3090 GamingPro 15601 points in Port Royal and I have as well AMD CPU although 5950X and I'm using only PBO on my 5950X,can you please check in Nvidia Control panel if you are running ReBAR or if ReBAR is enabled?

Do you have any background apps running in background like GeForce Experience,Razer Synapse etc? If yes turn the off or disable on them and check as with MSI Afterburner you are running clocks which you should be running,I score above score with 2145-2160MHz,above than my GPU would black screen,with VRAM I can push my to +1501MHz as max above that I will start to loose points in PR

In theory you can max out XOC 1000W BIOS at 666W,I have seen highest power draw at 600W in few apps but not in Port Royal,Port Royal will pull something like 500-520W max on my GPU
What clocks are you seeing during the run?

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Any one got new mails about shipping? Last one is 5212?


----------



## doox00

Huseyinbaykal said:


> Any one got new mails about shipping? Last one is 5212?


I ordered an intel block and ftw3 block almost a month ago and neither have shipped yet.


----------



## HyperMatrix

unboxing world record.


----------



## dwolvin

Nice!


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Looks nice. I wonder when will mine ships. 5224 waiting


----------



## Paramedic10

Beautiful. Matte black/Nickel? I ordered matte/copper. Wondering if they are making them by color batches first, someone speculated that on the EVGA forums.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Paramedic10 said:


> Beautiful. Matte black/Nickel? I ordered matte/copper. Wondering if they are making them by color batches first, someone speculated that on the EVGA forums.


Matte black and nickel indeed. If they’re doing the colors in house as they stated, it should be quick enough for them to get to the other ones.


----------



## chibi

Looking good bro, post your rig once it's installed!


----------



## Sir Beregond

Wow, looks like a behemoth.


----------



## LiquidHaus

so the question then becomes...what are everyone's dip switch recommendations before installing the block? lol


----------



## dwolvin

I prefer them all located on the PCB. (but have a 1080ti so no idea)


----------



## HyperMatrix

I just put the block on but I’m getting massive board flex and alignment of the front block and the heatsink is off. Gonna open and redo.











Update: corrected alignment but flex still there. Likely due to the massively thick thermal pad on the backplate.










Debating whether to open it up and squish down the thermal pad. Or if heat from running the card will soften it and reduce tension. Will wait to see what other users get when they install their blocks.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> so the question then becomes...what are everyone's dip switch recommendations before installing the block? lol


I game with both NV voltage and 1 NV load line dip switch ON and the rest off. When I’m not using the computer I mine with them off. Since card has a 10 year warranty, I would set those 3 ON if I couldn’t adjust later.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Block installed. Total weight just over 7lbs.


----------



## Paramedic10

7 lbs!? Going to need to put a jack stand in my case when I install mine to support this thing.

Any resolution of the board flex? That looked pretty bad.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Paramedic10 said:


> 7 lbs!? Going to need to put a jack stand in my case when I install mine to support this thing.
> 
> Any resolution of the board flex? That looked pretty bad.


Only thing I can think of is to open it and squish down the thermal pad that goes between the backplate and the board. It’s 3mm thick…so that can be a problem. But then I’m concerned I may squish down the wrong area and cause a loss of contact somewhere. So I’m going to mount it and see if I broke my card already or not.


----------



## criskoe

HyperMatrix said:


> I just put the block on but I’m getting massive board flex and alignment of the front block and the heatsink is off. Gonna open and redo.
> 
> 
> Update: corrected alignment but flex still there. Likely due to the massively thick thermal pad on the backplate.
> 
> 
> 
> Debating whether to open it up and squish down the thermal pad. Or if heat from running the card will soften it and reduce tension. Will wait to see what other users get when they install their blocks.



Wow that is quite a bit of flex. Would make me worried. 

The pcb looks really off at the sli fingers. Is it really that bad or just the picture?


----------



## HyperMatrix

criskoe said:


> Wow that is quite a bit of flex. Would make me worried.
> 
> The pcb looks really off at the sli fingers. Is it really that bad or just the picture?
> 
> View attachment 2535973


Optical illusion.










The flex is here:










And also here:









That last pic looks like a poor design choice. It seems like it’s flexing because the back of the hdmi/dp ports is touching the block and can’t come down. Also they provided no nuts and bolts to secure the io bracket to the board, now that the original screws no longer have anything to thread into. Aquacomputer and EK I believe always provide them.


----------



## geriatricpollywog




----------



## LiquidHaus

that's some gnarly flex. just for comparison sake, I'd mount up the back plate without the pad at all to make sure what's going on.


----------



## criskoe

HyperMatrix said:


> Optical illusion.
> The flex is here:
> And also here:
> That last pic looks like a poor design choice. It seems like it’s flexing because the back of the hdmi/dp ports is touching the block and can’t come down. Also they provided no nuts and bolts to secure the io bracket to the board, now that the original screws no longer have anything to thread into. Aquacomputer and EK I believe always provide them.


yeah I saw the flex in the other areas. That area at the sli fingers looked weird. Your other pictures make it make sense Tho. It’s the notch depth that makes the pcb look stepped in that pic. Lol.

As for the io area. Wow that’s a huge gap. Not gunna provide much support for sure. 

You mounting card vertical or horizontal?

If going horizontal I’d make a acrylic block to fit in the slot. Will help support the card.


----------



## acoustic

That flex looks absolutely horrific. No way I'd recommend leaving the card like that.


----------



## HyperMatrix

criskoe said:


> yeah I saw the flex in the other areas. That area at the sli fingers looked weird. Your other pictures make it make sense Tho. It’s the notch depth that makes the pcb look stepped in that pic. Lol.
> 
> As for the io area. Wow that’s a huge gap. Not gunna provide much support for sure.
> 
> You mounting card vertical or horizontal?
> 
> If going horizontal I’d make a acrylic block to fit in the slot. Will help support the card.


I have nuts and bolts at home so I took care of that but just a little unexpected from a 5 month delayed $600 GPU block. Haha. And I’m trying to do vertical mounting. Looks like I may have to bring out the dremel to get the job done though.


----------



## Paramedic10

HyperMatrix said:


> I have nuts and bolts at home so I took care of that but just a little unexpected from a 5 month delayed $600 GPU block. Haha. And I’m trying to do vertical mounting. Looks like I may have to bring out the dremel to get the job done though.


Absolutely unacceptable for you to have to go hacking at this thing. It should be perfect out of the box. I'd considering sending it back before taking it under the knife. Once you do, no way you'd be able to return.


----------



## iamjanco

HyperMatrix said:


> Optical illusion.
> The flex is here:
> View attachment 2535975


could just be the way I'm looking at it, but yeah, something seems really off here. Note the areas I pointed out with the arrows, which appear to be supportive points. Also, that long screw I drew a box around, is it screwed into a threaded spacer at the bottom? I'm not so sure so much of that screw's threads should be visible like it is in the following pic:


----------



## HyperMatrix

Paramedic10 said:


> Absolutely unacceptable for you to have to go hacking at this thing. It should be perfect out of the box. I'd considering sending it back before taking it under the knife. Once you do, no way you'd be able to return.


Dremel to my case not the GPU block. Still debating what to do about the block. Was hoping someone else here would have received theirs today and shared installation results.


----------



## HyperMatrix

iamjanco said:


> could just be the way I'm looking at it, but yeah, something seems really off here. Note the areas I pointed out with the arrows, which appear to be supportive points. Also, that long screw I drew a box around, is it screwed into a threaded spacer at the bottom? I'm not so sure so much of that screw's threads should be visible like it is in the following pic:
> 
> View attachment 2535985


No idea what that bottom-left arrow is pointing at. Here’s a clearer picture. Also when looking at the block, to the right of your right most arrow. Where the 2 black block components are touching each other. That block + Plex rest on the piece on the very right. So the main block can’t go down any further than the black heatsink on the right side in that picture.










This is what happens when I unscrew those 4 highlighted screws










No more board flex. And gap between the block and heatsink where the arrow is pointing. So it’s the act of tightening those screws that’s causing the flex.


----------



## HyperMatrix

I think it’s a problem of bad backplate thermal pad. I noticed discolorations on parts of it when I took the protective film off but ignored it. After dismantling it, I came to squish it up so it loses the imprint of the components from the previous mount and makes good contact again on the remount. In doing so, I’m noticing some areas of the thermal pad being very soft and squishy, and others being several times harder.




















Looking at the pads on the front, there was sufficient contact with the components from the main front block so there’s no issues with alignment having prevented proper contact. I think it’s literally just the backplate thermal pad being defective.

The areas that look like white powder Are the discolorations I was referring to.


----------



## Paramedic10

That's an awful lot of flex for a defective thermal pad, isn't it?


----------



## criskoe

Right now would be a perfect time for @Optimus WC to respond. Lol.

One can wish right? Lmao.

have you tried reaching out to them?


----------



## Section31

I hope rest of optimus next gen blocks looks as good (even without active), this design element should be carried over.


----------



## HyperMatrix

criskoe said:


> Right now would be a perfect time for @Optimus WC to respond. Lol.
> 
> One can wish right? Lmao.
> 
> have you tried reaching out to them?


Not yet. Was waiting to open and put it back together in case it was due to a mistake on my part



Paramedic10 said:


> That's an awful lot of flex for a defective thermal pad, isn't it?


Not when it’s a thick 3mm thermal pad that stretches across the entire backplate. Here is what the other side of the backplate looks like according to their own tightening guide:










The expectation is for the pad to be soft and to squish and conform. But it’s not doing that. Thought it might be a heat related issue so I warmed the pad up with a hair dryer for 5 minutes. No difference. I can physically feel some areas being so soft that if I pressed hard enough, my finger would go through the pad. And other parts, barely compressed.

Asides from that, there is a fundamental design flaw with the block touching the DisplayPort connectors. So you’re always going to get flex there because it’s literally touching and pushing against them:


----------



## LiquidHaus

kinda blown away right now.


----------



## HyperMatrix

LiquidHaus said:


> kinda blown away right now.


On the plus side...plugged it in and it's working. They weren't lying about the delta. Water temp at 24.8C-26.1C (range/difference between my 5 water temp sensors). Card was running at 31-32C with 500W draw. I'd test it out with the 1000W bios but considering all the flex and potential contact issues...I'm going to hold off for a while.










Able to pull off 2220MHz with the stock bios as well. Several port royal runs in a row now (windowed mode for OC testing). Temps still solid:


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

That block is extremely beautiful!

Shame you can't enjoy it fully because of the flex,but atleast you can play around with it a bit! Hopefully the flex isn't something to bothersome,lets not hope it's a block mistake or something


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> That block is extremely beautiful!
> 
> Shame you can't enjoy it fully because of the flex,but atleast you can play around with it a bit! Hopefully the flex isn't something to bothersome,lets not hope it's a block mistake or something


The flex by the IO ports is definitely a design flaw unless it just happens to be an issue with my block. I'm surprised no one else has posted pics or details of their block yet.


----------



## D-EJ915

Maybe they should offer a mounting service with the cost of the block lol.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Kinda sad if it truly is on all blocks a design flaw that you guys payed this much and then it's not 100% after 5-6 months of waiting. Lets see if OPTIMUS ever responds again what they'll say,but that flex didn't look nice at all


----------



## JustinThyme

HyperMatrix said:


> Optical illusion.
> View attachment 2535974
> 
> 
> 
> The flex is here:
> View attachment 2535975
> 
> 
> 
> And also here:
> View attachment 2535976
> 
> 
> That last pic looks like a poor design choice. It seems like it’s flexing because the back of the hdmi/dp ports is touching the block and can’t come down. Also they provided no nuts and bolts to secure the io bracket to the board, now that the original screws no longer have anything to thread into. Aquacomputer and EK I believe always provide them.


Uhhhhhh NOPE!! Box that sucker up and send it back!! Screwed the pooch on that design!!


----------



## HyperMatrix

JustinThyme said:


> Uhhhhhh NOPE!! Box that sucker up and send it back!! Screwed the pooch on that design!!


I'm going to try to secure a replacement first.  Not sure I can let go of these performance numbers. Haha. I emailed them and sent them a link to this thread. Let's see how they respond.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

That flex make me sad  is it still there after benchmarks (heat softens the pad)?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Huseyinbaykal said:


> That flex make me sad  is it still there after benchmarks (heat softens the pad)?


Card isn’t getting hot enough to test out that theory. I may have to shut off the pumps and let it bake for a bit. But going to wait for Optimus’s reply first.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

If OPTIMUS really ****ed this up it would be hilarious honestly!

Imagine the crap they spewed how they needed more time to make it EXTRA PERFECT and first customer has a huge bent...uhhhhh if it's really a design flaw which it seems I doubt OPTIMUS will reply here anything. Lets see,I hope it turns out to be something minor or a 1 case issue and you @HyperMatrix just got unlucky


----------



## elbramso

I should receive my block tomorrow. I was super happy when I saw the confirmation that the block has been sent but now that I saw the pictures I'm a little concerned. 
Performance is great ofc


----------



## yaohanzex

HyperMatrix said:


> Not yet. Was waiting to open and put it back together in case it was due to a mistake on my part
> 
> 
> 
> Not when it’s a thick 3mm thermal pad that stretches across the entire backplate. Here is what the other side of the backplate looks like according to their own tightening guide:
> 
> View attachment 2536000
> 
> 
> The expectation is for the pad to be soft and to squish and conform. But it’s not doing that. Thought it might be a heat related issue so I warmed the pad up with a hair dryer for 5 minutes. No difference. I can physically feel some areas being so soft that if I pressed hard enough, my finger would go through the pad. And other parts, barely compressed.
> 
> Asides from that, there is a fundamental design flaw with the block touching the DisplayPort connectors. So you’re always going to get flex there because it’s literally touching and pushing against them:
> 
> View attachment 2536001











I wonder what happened here?


----------



## iamjanco

^That obviously looks bad.

@HyperMatrix 

Did they include detailed instructions of some kind with the block? If so, any chance you could take a pic of them and share that with us?


----------



## frag06

5217 received yesterday. Matte black/Nickel. No time to mount it any time soon most likely though.

That flex looks pretty damn bad... Concerned about installing it now. Hope I didn't pay $600 for a defective design lol. From the instructions, it looks like overtightening certain screws may be a cause.



iamjanco said:


> ^That obviously looks bad.
> 
> @HyperMatrix
> 
> Did they include detailed instructions of some kind with the block? If so, any chance you could take a pic of them and share that with us?


No instructions of any kind included with the block, or mine anyway. Edit: Posted below haha


----------



## dng25

Optimus posted the instructions along with screw sizes.


----------



## iamjanco

^Thanks for those; took a quick look on their site, but didn't see them.

@HyperMatrix did you reference and follow those instructions while installing your block? Could be you did, but have to ask.

At this juncture, I'd wait until Optimus chimes in someplace. That will hopefully be here. @Optimus WC


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

You’d say after peeps finally got there blocks things would settle down here but guess not ehhhh…that bending isn’t purely from a 3mm thick thermalpad issue,yes the pads are thick but no pcb should bend that much.

Imagine the guys eagerly waiting and being happy getting a shipping notification seeing the bend here. I really hope OPTIMUS didn’t ship out a half ass finished product because they’re really late,that would suck! 
I’ll see what happens but I think OPTIMUS took a bite they couldn’t chew here,either Hyper got really unlucky or they screwed up. This silence is also funny from them,you sent out a new product and dead silence what company does that?

Lets see


----------



## HyperMatrix

iamjanco said:


> ^Thanks for those; took a quick look on their site, but didn't see them.
> 
> @HyperMatrix did you reference and follow those instructions while installing your block? Could be you did, but have to ask.
> 
> At this juncture, I'd wait until Optimus chimes in someplace. That will hopefully be here. @Optimus WC


Yup. The flex is happening because I’m following their tightening guide. If you don’t tighten it as per their guide, you can remove the flex from the part held down by the cyan colored screws from the diagram. However, if you don’t tighten it down on the front area covered by the green colored screws, in my case, you end up with a large gap between the front block and the heatsink. No adjustment in tightening prevents the DisplayPort connectors from pushing against the block and flexing that part of the card for me either.


----------



## HyperMatrix

yaohanzex said:


> View attachment 2536054
> 
> I wonder what happened here?


This is what happens when you follow their tightening instructions. This area of the backplate uses thinner material than the other spots. So they end up flexing a lot . If I ignore their tightening guidance, I can release the tension on screw and it’ll straighten out. But then I’m afraid about a lack of contact pressure so I decided to follow their instructions until I hear back from them.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, getting through notes now. With the KP, even if you're a super experienced builder, following these instructions exactly is extremely important, otherwise parts can be damaged (HM, we'll work to get you replacements asap, so you can have a good block!)

First, can you undo all the screws and see if the block "springs back" into shape? It's clear certain screws are overtightened. So undo the backplate

The bending is no doubt due from the screw pulling the copper for the rear waterblock, leveraging it against other parts in the block. It takes a good deal of force to bend a thick piece of copper like that Revised: it's not extremely hard to bend, but can be done with normal screwdrivers. Revising instructions to eliminate this exact issue. 

It's hard to tell where things went wrong though. Chances are parts were tightened too far down in the beginning, causing other areas not to line up correctly. We do make lots of notes in the instructions not to fully tighten or overtighten, because of potential issues. So if parts are, say, the front heatsink over the power, then it can cause bending directly on the PCB, and will then cause issues elsewhere. Like not aligning on the display port correctly.

The reason for the tightening guides is because this block requires exact pressure in different areas for performance. And that it has many pieces with the first full coverage rear waterblock, etc.


----------



## LiquidHaus

time for one of these, it seems.


----------



## dng25

LiquidHaus said:


> time for one of these, it seems.


Just need suggested torque values


----------



## chibi

Finger tight and quarter turn. +/- the torque to match that should be a good base point.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, no torque driver needed (plus good ones are expensive!)

This is entirely an instruction issue, and not HyperMatrix's fault, it's clear there is a step that's unclear. Spoke with Optimus engineering, and we see where the confusion is at.

The good news, is with this revised step, everything should work perfectly. And all parts should bounce back, and nothing should conflict (block w/ dp, etc).

So here is the revisions to help understand what's going on:












The area in the RED rectangle is the die area.
We will now say this is the ONLY area that should be tightened down as hard as you can go.
(because this is where the performance is at)
The other screws on the back aren't critical for die (with paste) and RAM performance
Tightening those other screws will not improve temps, only risk bending the pcb
Thus, the other screws should be "sufficiently" tightened, so it's firm. But really don't need much force at all.
We will make it clear these other screws shouldn't be over-tightened aka bending the PCB. *If anything is bent, it's too tight.*


FOR HYPERMATRIX: loosen all the screws (so they're still installed, but not tight). Fully firmly tighten the ones in the red. Then do the rest, but it's not needed to have them super tight at all.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> First, can you undo all the screws and see if the block "springs back" into shape? It's clear certain screws are overtightened. So undo the backplate


Hey. As I documented in the thread here, if I release the tension on the "green" screws from the install guide, the flex goes away. But...then we have a gap between the front block and the heatsink. Because the thermal pad appears to be causing the flex by refusing to conform under pressure.



Optimus WC said:


> The bending is no doubt due from the screw pulling the copper for the rear waterblock, leveraging it against other parts in the block. It takes a good deal of force to bend a thick piece of copper like that Revised: it's not extremely hard to bend, but can be done with normal screwdrivers. Revising instructions to eliminate this exact issue.


I tightened it using your provided tools, according to your instructions. It said to tighten the green and cyan screws as much as possible using the tool in the upright position. So I tightened them in exactly that manner, using one hand. I haven't worked out in 3 years so it's not an issue of not knowing my own strength.  That part of the back plate is much thinner than other areas of the block. Despite that, the install guide had stated to tighten them as much as possible using the provided tool, which results in bending. Unscrewing them does remove the flex on the section with the cyan screws. I was afraid to not follow your tightening guide in case it resulted in a loss of contact pressure.



Optimus WC said:


> It's hard to tell where things went wrong though. Chances are parts were tightened too far down in the beginning, causing other areas not to line up correctly. We do make lots of notes in the instructions not to fully tighten or overtighten, because of potential issues. So if parts are, say, the front heatsink over the power, then it can cause bending directly on the PCB, and will then cause issues elsewhere. Like not aligning on the display port correctly.
> 
> The reason for the tightening guides is because this block requires exact pressure in different areas for performance. And that it has many pieces with the first full coverage rear waterblock, etc.


I disassembled and went through the install process 3 times, making sure to follow the exact steps from your guide. As you can see in the pictures I posted, there is no flex until I screw down the green screws on the backplate. The problem is that if I don't screw them down, according to your own install guide, then I end up with a gap between the front block plexi and the heatsink where they overlap.

If there's anything in specific that I'm missing, please let me know and I'll try to make the adjustments. Any thoughts on the DisplayPort connectors making contact with the block? Are you seeing the same thing on your end or is it just a one off with my block?

Thanks for replying here, btw. It's very helpful for other members, and reassuring for potential customers to know that you are responding to issues that come up.



Optimus WC said:


> FOR HYPERMATRIX: loosen all the screws (so they're still installed, but not tight). Fully firmly tighten the ones in the red. Then do the rest, but it's not needed to have them super tight at all.


I'll give that a shot when I get home, but from my recollection the lack of compression on the backplate thermal pads was causing a gap between the front block and the heatsink if I didn't tighten the top-left green screw (next to the OLED display) more. (where the plexi glass edge from the front block sits on the heatsink). The thermal pad is very hard in spots, particularly around the edges.


----------



## yaohanzex

Optimus WC said:


> Hey guys, no torque driver needed (plus good ones are expensive!)
> 
> This is entirely an instruction issue, and not HyperMatrix's fault, it's clear there is a step that's unclear. Spoke with Optimus engineering, and we see where the confusion is at.
> 
> The good news, is with this revised step, everything should work perfectly. And all parts should bounce back, and nothing should conflict (block w/ dp, etc).
> 
> So here is the revisions to help understand what's going on:
> 
> View attachment 2536138
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The area in the RED rectangle is the die area.
> We will now say this is the ONLY area that should be tightened down as hard as you can go.
> (because this is where the performance is at)
> The other screws on the back aren't critical for die (with paste) and RAM performance
> Tightening those other screws will not improve temps, only risk bending the pcb
> Thus, the other screws should be "sufficiently" tightened, so it's firm. But really don't need much force at all.
> We will make it clear these other screws shouldn't be over-tightened aka bending the PCB. *If anything is bent, it's too tight.*
> 
> 
> FOR HYPERMATRIX: loosen all the screws (so they're still installed, but not tight). Fully firmly tighten the ones in the red. Then do the rest, but it's not needed to have them super tight at all.


Also could you please let the engineer know about including screws and nuts to fix the bracket firmly to PCB. Three small screws on the port are not enough to provide enough support from the bracket to prevent GPU from sagging.


----------



## Optimus WC

yaohanzex said:


> Also could you please let the engineer know about including screws and nuts to fix the bracket firmly to PCB. Three small screws on the port are not enough to provide enough support from the bracket to prevent GPU from sagging.


Good thought, we'll include those as well as send out extras for people who already got blocks.


----------



## elbramso

Optimus WC said:


> Good thought, we'll include those as well as send out extras for people who already got blocks.


My block arrives tomorrow. As I live in Germany, the screws will not be here soon


----------



## doox00

Optimus WC said:


> Good thought, we'll include those as well as send out extras for people who already got blocks.


I am curious are they fairly accurate wait times on orders for a FTW3 block and intel blocks? It says 4-5 weeks from order time for the gpu block and 1 week for cpu block, it has been almost a month since I ordered and the cpu block has not been shipped yet, waiting to send the cpu block until the gpu block is ready so they get shipped together? Are you still on track for the 4-5 week wait times on the FTW3 blocks?


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> ... from my recollection the lack of compression on the backplate thermal pads was causing a gap between the front block and the heatsink if I didn't tighten the top-left green screw (next to the OLED display) more. (where the plexi glass edge from the front block sits on the heatsink). The thermal pad is very hard in spots, particularly around the edges.












You're referring to this area, correct? So technically there should always be a gap there, even if it isn't visible. Because contact between the acrylic and the heatsink (in yellow here) is purely aesthetic, the important contact areas are the die, vram, vrm, etc. The whole front is two parts, rather than one massive part, so pressure can be dialed in correctly on different areas. If we wanted to have the heatsink (yellow) fully mated to the acrylic, we would have put screws in there. Instead, the two parts float and don't make contact. When fully assembled, the gap that exists there is basically invisible.

Though we can see how it would seem like all those parts should be touching. So we'll clear that up in the instructions


----------



## Optimus WC

elbramso said:


> My block arrives tomorrow. As I live in Germany, the screws will not be here soon


Sorry about that! The screws to use there are the same ones as these: 










They're pretty common screws, a lot of screws would work. we'll be sending:
-2 x 4mm M2.5 x 0.45mm thread w/ M1.5 Hex Button Heads
-2 xHex Nut m2.5 x 0.45mm thread



doox00 said:


> I am curious are they fairly accurate wait times on orders for a FTW3 block and intel blocks? It says 4-5 weeks from order time for the gpu block and 1 week for cpu block, it has been almost a month since I ordered and the cpu block has not been shipped yet, waiting to send the cpu block until the gpu block is ready so they get shipped together? Are you still on track for the 4-5 week wait times on the FTW3 blocks?


Yes, we ship everything together, unless requested otherwise. And FTW3s are generally on time.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Optimus WC said:


> Sorry about that! The screws to use there are the same ones as these:
> 
> View attachment 2536157
> 
> 
> They're pretty common screws, a lot of screws would work. we'll be sending:
> -2 x 4mm M2.5 x 0.45mm thread w/ M1.5 Hex Button Heads
> -2 xHex Nut m2.5 x 0.45mm thread
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, we ship everything together, unless requested otherwise. And FTW3s are generally on time.


Any info for#5224? I wanna ask if its waiting because I wanted copper + matte black. I dont wanna wait for copper. Just send nickel if its faster. And will I get nuts and screws too?


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Good thought, we'll include those as well as send out extras for people who already got blocks.


Now that you finally got your Kingpin block, curious what is the next projects for you guys.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> FOR HYPERMATRIX: loosen all the screws (so they're still installed, but not tight). Fully firmly tighten the ones in the red. Then do the rest, but it's not needed to have them super tight at all.


Just got home and tried completely unscrewing the screws in question. On the “cyan screw” side of things, there is definitely some permanent bending of the backplate from following the previous instructions. And even the points you’re still recommend I tighten, are showing some bowing between them. Again - most likely due to the defective thermal pad. Here is a pic. The one you told me to loosen is completely unscrewed here. This is just based off of the tension of the 2 screws you see in the picture










On the green screw side of things, I completely unscrewed the right and left most screw. While it did release some of the tension and flex in the board, it hasn’t remedied the problem as you can see here:










And here’s a shot showing the flex through the acrylic. There’s water in there so I didnt want to unscrew it. But should be quite visible.










This also looks like it could be a thermal pad use. Unless this also is the result of overtightening. Which…at this point…would require me to ask what “tighten as much as possible” in your install guide means. Haha. Because it’s just hand tightened using your tool in the vertical position.

I can’t dismantle the board anymore because the last time I took it apart, the 0.5mm pads were destroyed.

Also were you able to find any additional info on the flex caused by the DisplayPort connectors pressing against the block?

Thanks again for the communication here. I do appreciate it.


----------



## dng25

Section31 said:


> Now that you finally got your Kingpin block, curious what is the next projects for you guys.


signature v3 👀


----------



## Optimus WC

Here's a draft of the updated instructions. So the screws in the red rectangle are the ones that matter the most. All the others on the backplate are purely for thermal pads, not the die, and should not be tightened as far as they will go. Yes, the instructions were unclear about this, hopefully this clears things up 

And I'll need to loop in engineering tomorrow to go into detail about what you're experiencing. With the IO, the block will clear it when screwed in correctly. It's very possible that since the screws were technically over-tightened on the backplate, the thermal pad is "sucking" the PCB to the backplate, so things aren't springing back as easily as they would. Tweaking it would require draining it and starting over. 

All that said, the thing about PCB bends is that some bending is fine, when you get a blackscreen that's when you know the bend has gone too far. This is a weird thing about nvidia GPUs, undoing the bend will fix the black screen. This is something we've tested a bunch early in our GPU block development. So if everything works with the block (aka you're getting good performance) simply loosening the non-red-rectangle screws might, over time, let the PCB+pad pop back into normal position. 



Section31 said:


> Now that you finally got your Kingpin block, curious what is the next projects for you guys.


Increasing production, improving shipping times, improving CS  And then res bracket, 16mm fittings, more fittings, etc.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> View attachment 2536215
> 
> 
> Here's a draft of the updated instructions. So the screws in the red rectangle are the ones that matter the most. All the others on the backplate are purely for thermal pads, not the die, and should not be tightened as far as they will go. Yes, the instructions were unclear about this, hopefully this clears things up
> 
> And I'll need to loop in engineering tomorrow to go into detail about what you're experiencing. With the IO, the block will clear it when screwed in correctly. It's very possible that since the screws were technically over-tightened on the backplate, the thermal pad is "sucking" the PCB to the backplate, so things aren't springing back as easily as they would. Tweaking it would require draining it and starting over.
> 
> All that said, the thing about PCB bends is that some bending is fine, when you get a blackscreen that's when you know the bend has gone too far. This is a weird thing about nvidia GPUs, undoing the bend will fix the black screen. This is something we've tested a bunch early in our GPU block development. So if everything works with the block (aka you're getting good performance) simply loosening the non-red-rectangle screws might, over time, let the PCB+pad pop back into normal position.
> 
> 
> 
> Increasing production, improving shipping times, improving CS  And then res bracket, 16mm fittings, more fittings, etc.


Nice. Hope for more news on rotary 90, glass reservoir and radiator.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> View attachment 2536215
> 
> 
> Here's a draft of the updated instructions. So the screws in the red rectangle are the ones that matter the most. All the others on the backplate are purely for thermal pads, not the die, and should not be tightened as far as they will go. Yes, the instructions were unclear about this, hopefully this clears things up
> 
> And I'll need to loop in engineering tomorrow to go into detail about what you're experiencing. With the IO, the block will clear it when screwed in correctly. It's very possible that since the screws were technically over-tightened on the backplate, the thermal pad is "sucking" the PCB to the backplate, so things aren't springing back as easily as they would. Tweaking it would require draining it and starting over.
> 
> All that said, the thing about PCB bends is that some bending is fine, when you get a blackscreen that's when you know the bend has gone too far. This is a weird thing about nvidia GPUs, undoing the bend will fix the black screen. This is something we've tested a bunch early in our GPU block development. So if everything works with the block (aka you're getting good performance) simply loosening the non-red-rectangle screws might, over time, let the PCB+pad pop back into normal position.
> 
> 
> 
> Increasing production, improving shipping times, improving CS  And then res bracket, 16mm fittings, more fittings, etc.


Out of curiosity, why are you reluctant to address the issue of the backplate thermal pad being hard and dry around the edges, likely accounting for a lot of these issues as they are resistant to compression especially around the areas where the screws are trying to compress them. I would have thought it would be preferable for the issue to be the thermal pad than to be a problem with block design.


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> Out of curiosity, why are you reluctant to address the issue of the backplate thermal pad being hard and dry around the edges, likely accounting for a lot of these issues as they are resistant to compression especially around the areas where the screws are trying to compress them. I would have thought it would be preferable for the issue to be the thermal pad than to be a problem with block design.


So, to be clear, nothing is defective  The instructions just need to be clearer. The thermal pads, despite not compressing as much as they should, compress the right amount for the performance to work. Some of this may seem counter-intuitive, but we're revising the instructions so it's clearer.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> So, to be clear, nothing is defective  The instructions just need to be clearer. The thermal pads, despite not compressing as much as they should, compress the right amount for the performance to work. Some of this may seem counter-intuitive, but we're revising the instructions so it's clearer.


If I’m being honest, this isn’t confidence inspiring. There are multiple issues I’m facing. Some of them due to the install guide. Some likely not. It sounds like you’re adjusting the install guide to mitigate issues that are coming up as opposed to following your initial design intent.

You say the backplate thermal pad isn’t defective but even when following your new install guide, I’m getting bending in the backplate around the 2 cyan screws that you are still recommending to be tightened as much as possible with the provided tool in vertical position, because the thermal pad isn’t compressing as much as it should as you yourself just stated.

The DisplayPort connectors touching the block and flexing the board are also being blamed on the installation instructions and I can’t say that this is or isn’t the case but I do believe that it’s premature to say “nothing is defective.”

If I can be clear with you, and this is coming from someone that likes your products and has recommended them to friends, my expectations for a resolution right now are looking to be a replacement backplate/backplate thermal pad/normal thermal pads (as they’re all torn up from opening/closing the block several times now). And that’s if your engineers are able to confirm that the problem with the DisplayPort connectors is a result of following the first install guide you had up. If it turns out that there is an actual clearance issue with my block…then I’d expect that to be replaced as well. I will certainly wait while you do your investigation as the card is functional in this state. But I don’t think its current state could be considered acceptable, especially given its price.


----------



## LiquidHaus

hoping we can get some others in here to post about their installation experience!


----------



## HyperMatrix

LiquidHaus said:


> hoping we can get some others in here to post about their installation experience!


Well it looks like they've been trashing me on Twitter for having improperly installed it, despite having installed it 100% according to their instructions. So instead of "Unfortunately our instructions were incorrect and resulted in possible damage to this user's block" it's "All these flex problems you see, including display port connectors hitting the block and flexing the board, are because of an improperly installed block." Their exact quote: "When installed correctly, the clearances are just fine and there is no PCB flex." Even though I've now installed it according to their new instructions and they're claiming that nothing I've received is defective. I guess it's easier to throw a random unknown person under the bus instead of facing the issue. And then they share the screenshot I posted here of Control running 2190MHz at 32C with 24.7C water on Twitter. And now I have people all over the internet on reddit/evga forums/twitter/etc etc saying "look at how this idiot didn't follow the instructions and bent his card."


----------



## yaohanzex

HyperMatrix said:


> Well it looks like they've been trashing me on Twitter for having improperly installed it, despite having installed it 100% according to their instructions. So instead of "Unfortunately our instructions were incorrect and resulted in possible damage to this user's block" it's "All these flex problems you see, including display port connectors hitting the block and flexing the board, are because of an improperly installed block." Their exact quote: "When installed correctly, the clearances are just fine and there is no PCB flex." Even though I've now installed it according to their new instructions and they're claiming that nothing I've received is defective. I guess it's easier to throw a random unknown person under the bus instead of facing the issue. And then they share the screenshot I posted here of Control running 2190MHz at 32C with 24.7C water on Twitter. And now I have people all over the internet on reddit/evga forums/twitter/etc etc saying "look at how this idiot didn't follow the instructions and bent his card."


I always appreciate people sharing their experience of a product that very few people possess. And I don't think your installation procedure is wrong in any way. If you suspect the thermal pad on the backplate is defect maybe try to replace it entirely with self cut 3mm thermal pad on key components on the back of the PCB. Now according to your pictures, the thermal pad is causing the metal part of the back plate to bend. Tomorrow we will see a post with someone who send the card to optimus to fit the block. We will then know for sure whether the design is defect.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

yaohanzex said:


> I always appreciate people sharing their experience of a product that very few people possess. And I don't think your installation procedure is wrong in any way. If you suspect the thermal pad on the backplate is defect maybe try to replace it entirely with self cut 3mm thermal pad on key components on the back of the PCB. Now according to your pictures, the thermal pad is causing the metal part of the back plate to bend. Tomorrow we will see a post with someone who send the card to optimus to fit the block. We will then know for sure whether the design is defect.


Do you honestly think at this point OPTIMUS even if it is their fault which imho it does look like a fault in design they’ll just admit they ****ed up?
There’s no way they’ll say it’s on them,just them coming in here and adjusting the installation instructions should tell you everything!

6 months of waiting and then having to bs around how tight you have to screw it and which ones go 100% and which should be screwed down 96.543% strenght,like come the F….on?!
Everyone knows my stance on OPTIMUS by now,this isn’t one of those again but what I’ve seen here it’s basically they messed up somewhere and just pushed the 1st guy under the bus!
You as a self proclaimed high end company shouldn’t do that in no way,that bend on @HyperMatrix ocb isn’t purely “ohhh,you tightened 7 screws like 2% more then you should” this is much more


I feel sorry for the dude,after 6 months finally you see your card in the block and guess what it’s all bend…to now being made fun of on the WWW…what a **** show honestly


----------



## Paramedic10

I think everyone needs to take a deep breath and wait to see what happens with a few other samples, we've seen *ONE* so far. Also, lets see how Optimus will handle replacing hyper's block or pads after they said they would make it right... Yes, it seems the install instructions were not clear (enough) to avoid this type of problem from arising, so Optimus owns that mistake. It also seems the thermal pad may be out of spec too. However, personally, if it were me installing that block and I noticed that PCB starting to bend like that, I would have *stopped *and maybe sought some further guidance, to me this is just common sense. Other's may disagree and just follow vague instructions blindly "because it said so".

Let's give this a few more days to see what other people experience, see how the other user makes out after they get their block back from Optimus preinstalled with their own GPU. At that point it would be safe to say it's a design flaw, an install issue, out of spec parts, or a freak occurrence. Hyper, I would be as frustrated as you if it were me in your shoes for sure, don't get me wrong, I hope they make it 100% right for you, as I am also awaiting one of their KP blocks, and hope I don't run into the same problems.

On a side note, I haven't noticed Optimus posting any of their own data or benchmarks. Do they even own a KP card to test with? If they've resorted to using other users' screenshots of performance and can't post their own, it makes me think they don't even own an actual KP card to test their block on. But maybe I'm wrong.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Paramedic10 said:


> However, personally, if it were me installing that block and I noticed that PCB starting to bend like that, I would have *stopped *and maybe sought some further guidance, to me this is just common sense. Other's may disagree and just follow vague instructions blindly "because it said so".


First off, nothing about the instructions was "vague." I know they've been using terminology that makes it seem like it was just "less clear than it should be" because it then makes it seem like it's the users fault because they misunderstood what the instructions were saying, but that's not the case at all. The exact quote from the install guide is: "*Alternate between tightening the 8 installed screws until they are as tight as possible with the included torx key in the tall position.*" Which part of that statement is vague or unclear? It specifically details which 8 screws it's talking about, and exactly how tight it needs to be. It was just incorrect instructions. It was perfectly clear. It was just wrong. 

Furthermore, the problem is that depending on the orientation of the block when you're tightening it, you don't see the pcb flex. As the flex is happening mostly around the edges (due to the hard/dry edges of the thermal pad), I was able to alleviate the pressure on the block itself (cyan screws from guide), because the metal was thinner in that area and instead of flexing the PCB, was just flexing the block itself. But didn't see that the PCB was flexed on the other side until I had completely screwed everything in. Unless you're specifically looking for PCB flex because you suspect something may be wrong, you wouldn't notice it unless that specific side was pointing right at you. Furthermore...even with the updated instructions, they're still recommending to fully tighten those 4 screws, 2 of which are still causing flex in the block which they're seemingly saying is ok and "may fix itself over time." Remember...people with hindsight are geniuses.

Best part of this argument is that if I hadn't done the install exactly as their install guide says and there was some kind of problem like lack of contact pressure and certain components on the card heating up...someone like you would come by and say "Well personally, I don't know about you, but I would have followed the instructions because clearly the manufacturers know what they're doing. This is his fault for not fully complying with the instructions."


----------



## Paramedic10

"Best part of this argument" I'm actually not arguing with you, like at all. I actually mostly sided *with you *regarding this, but you instead decided to just clip out one of my observations. I did say the instructions were unclear. If you want to split hairs over the verbiage that was used, be my guest, I don't care. I come from a mechanical background and I'm simply stating that I would have been cautious to watch for these types of problems installing something for the first time. Sure, hindsight is always 20/20, and maybe if the instructions were perfectly clear, this never would of happened, or maybe it would have regardless, like I said, we don't know yet as we are basing all of our assumptions off YOU, and ONE experience thus far, which is why I refuse to accept any one answer until we have more facts and the _n _is greater than 1.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Paramedic10 said:


> "Best part of this argument" I'm actually not arguing with you, like at all. I actually mostly sided *with you *regarding this,


If only I hadn't seen these posts on the EVGA forum. While you were waiting for more samples to determine the cause...you were happy to cast the blame on me, and to take Optimus at their word without question.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, let me get in here and respond. 

First @HyperMatrix We're not saying you messed up -- we clearly need to revise the instructions  We're saying if these issues are seen, the block is installed incorrectly. Fuzzy instructions = our fault! Not saying you made a mistake. 

Second, we'll replace the block or any parts, we know this block has the most difficult install of anything we've made or anyone has made (really, the KP PCB is one crazy board) with a unique active rear waterblock, so we're trying to do our best to explain how the whole thing works.

The important thing is the performance is on point, the bending details can be resolved, and we'll explain everything.

Everyone, please hold your thoughts, give me a second to get it written...


----------



## Paramedic10

In my defense it did look like you stood on the thing lol and others have have thought similarly (three others commented right after me agreeing). Still, wasn't an argument, just my observations. And like Optimus just stated "We're saying if these issues are seen, the block is installed incorrectly" Installed incorrectly due to bad instructions or not, it wasn't on as intended per their design, so regardless, it was installed incorrectly with out without the proper instructions (as it was designed or intended by Optimus). "Well how was I supposed to know that?" Apparently you weren't. But it was still on wrong. And we are ALL hoping it is just an installation error and not a fundamental design flaw.

And I made that comment about "installer error" because optimus made it out to seem it was overtightened, which again, it is/was. Regardless of this, I was backing you up by saying it is possible the blocks, pads may be out of spec, and I did say optimus owns the issue of bad install instructions, so maybe you should realize that I do indeed agree with you on most of this issue, but you seem too upset to realize it.

I did say, too, in that post it was "one sample" and we were still waiting for more to be seen, so not casting full blame there. Sure, I'll take ownership of that second comment however if it makes you feel better. Maybe I was jumping the gun on that one. And I was correct, it *was* overzealous tightening. That PHSYCALLY caused the problem you had with bending, whether or not the instructions told you to apply 400 ft lbs of torque or none at all. That is the root of the problem, it is on too tight. That's why it warped/bent.

I don't know how much more I need to explain this. Agree or disagree all you want, I wont be commenting about your case anymore. Sure, we wanted more clear instructions from the get-go and I even said this may have prevented all of this. No need to get all asshurt over it however, especially when I've been mostly and openly on your side since we have learned more. I wish you the best with your block and hope things get straightened out for you. I'm also not surprised to see issues as the first adopter, things go through growing pains before it's perfect. That's the price we pay as ultimate performance seekers who have this expensive hobby.


----------



## Optimus WC

To quickly recap: the issues we're discussing are purely visual, not performance. 
*
@HyperMatrix Since you're getting a 7.8c delta, it's clear your compression on the die is excellent!*

So any bending at the moment is purely visual, not a performance issue. If it was performance, it'd be very obvious: either black screen or crazy high temps.

We've talked internally about these issues at great length today. Really, if the die performance is excellent, everything else is simply tweaking of mounting pressure. 

The question for us now is how to explain this the right way so there is zero confusion. 


*WHY THE KP IS DIFFERENT:*

Overall, this has been a learning experience on the instructions. We were just talking internally about how challenging this block was to make, especially because of the KP PCB with its cutout and mounting hole placement. The PCB isn't ideal for a mega block like ours, the FTW3 is actually a stronger PCB because it's truly full size. And there are even fewer mounting points on the KP PCB. But such is life, so the design and install is more complex and precise than other blocks. 


View attachment 2536315


*
CLARIFYING MOUNTING PRESSURE*

We think we know the main point of confusion: 

*The screws in the red rectangle are the DIE PERFORMANCE SCREWS.** 

All the rear screws on the back are for the FRONT of the block performance. The screws in the RED RECTANGLE = die and VRAM performance. Other rear screws = VRM. *

The goal/purpose of the rear screws is to optimize the front block performance (die, etc). NOT to compress the rear thermal pads at all.

*Rear pad compression does not matter for performance.* That 3mm Fuji has a huge performance margin of error. Meaning, the back waterblock could be loose or super tight, and the rear VRAM would have the exact same temps (this is unlike our front pads that have a very narrow compression window). 

So think of those screws in the red like normal mounting on a GPU or even CPU. Firm but not too firm. The goal is NOT to bottom them out. Or to bend any material around them. 

I think our mistake was assuming that no one would tighten those screws (or any screws) hard or far enough to actually bend the copper. 

NOTE: we will add more thermal pad material directly under those two teal screws on the bottom, simply to compensate for the potential that the copper will bend. We wanted to avoid this due to pad squishing out, but doing so will help prevent any possibility of bending. There are zero components to be cooled there, this is simply to provide back pressure to the copper. 


*BEST WAY TO EXPLAIN MOUNTING PRESSURE?*

For the people following along, how would this best be explained (assuming everything so far makes sense). 

One thing to know is that no rear screw threads have stops. Meaning, they can be tightened down much more than they should go. This is intentional, but it seems like it could cause confusion.

We're open to suggestions how to clarify the mounting pressure here:

SCREWS IN RED RECTANGLE: Tighten them like a CPU but not so tight they'd bend the PCB. "Firmly tighten"? "Tighten considerably, but not so far the copper would bend"?
OTHER SCREWS: "Gently" tighten them -- they have zero performance impact being extremely tight that anything bends. Something else?

*ADDITIONAL PRESSURE NOTE:*

All the rear screws not in the red rectangle can be gently screwed in. The only time you want to screw the GREEN screws more is when aligning the top terminal. But there is no need to have any of the rear screws extremely tight. 
*
THERMAL PAD MATERIALS:*

So regarding the thermal pads: they're the exact same ones as the other GPU blocks. When you notice something "hard" or weird or discoloration, that's actually powder added by Fujipoly to prevent the thermal pad from absolutely gluing itself to the PCB. You know how annoying EVGA's pads can be? This is to prevent that, thus why when removing the backplate, the imprint is super crisp and clear. But the powder can look unusual, especially on the edges.

*BLOCK AND CONNECTORS: *

When installed with better/newer instructions, this is a non-issue
The pic is showing the block touching the DP connectors due to the block being crooked because of different mounting pressures
The distance between block and DP is the same on our KP as it is on the FTW block
If there was a true issue, the block wouldn't seat at all, and the GPU wouldn't work, or would get crazy hot. 
In fact, your earlier pics showed the block installed with a PCB bend but the block went past the DP.


----------



## iamjanco

Paramedic10 said:


> I think everyone needs to take a deep breath and wait to see what happens...


Yup.



> I haven't noticed Optimus posting any of their own data or benchmarks. Do they even own a KP card to test with? If they've resorted to using other users' screenshots of performance and can't post their own, it makes me think they don't even own an actual KP card to test their block on. But maybe I'm wrong.


You're not the only one who's been wondering about that these past few days.



Optimus WC said:


> The question for us now is how to explain this the right way so there is zero confusion.
> 
> I think our mistake was assuming...
> 
> *BEST WAY TO EXPLAIN MOUNTING PRESSURE?*
> 
> One thing to know is that no rear screw threads have stops. Meaning, they can be tightened down much more than they should go. This is intentional, but it seems like it could cause confusion.
> 
> We're open to suggestions how to clarify the mounting pressure here...


Good luck with that. Whether Installation Guide, User Manual, or what have you, etc.: the challenge has always been putting together a document that is detailed enough to accomplish a task properly, while being understandable by ALL who might need to leverage those instructions. I've written tech manuals myself for some pretty well known companies and know what it can take to do that. 

On the subject of mounting pressure and keeping it within specs/tolerances: 

One of the things I noted when I was working on that copper backplate (images follow) for my KPE was also the pcb's inclination to flex. In my case, it was fairly easy to stay on top of that using additional spacers that help maintain the height between the pcb and that backplate, keeping the two parallel to each other as best possible to each other; while keeping other factors in mind like compressibility and thickness of the thermal pads in use (I found it best to use varying thicknesses, as the components on the back side of the pcb do vary in height). The OEM KPE backplate itself is pretty much a flat piece of metal with raised sides of equal height all around it that essentially accomplish the same thing. 

Suggestion for the Optimus KPE backplate/block: you could add small spacers where most needed (pressed-in or loose) that could help mitigate the fact that no rear screw threads have stops. That could help avoid the possibility of overtightening.

Anyway, as a reminder, here's that backplate I made for myself. I'm working on a second version that will adjust the position of the backplate waterblock so that I can make use of the first PCIE slot (X16 vs X8); one that will also allow me to mount a supplemental 1U cpu fan cooler as well (pictured below as well):


----------



## Paramedic10

Great explanation and revision of instructions, Optimus! Thank you for being prompt.



Optimus WC said:


> *Rear pad compression does not matter for performance.* That 3mm Fuji has a huge performance margin of error.


I knew it! Just like I said at EVGA forums...


----------



## geriatricpollywog

@tps3443 didn’t you order the backplate thermal pad directly from Optimus and install it on your properly machined Kingpin Hydrocopper block? Did you notice whether the pad was difficult to compress and caused any PCB bending?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> In fact, your earlier pics showed the block installed with a PCB bend but the block went past the DP.


Can you show me which pic this was in? I can't seem to find it by going through them on my phone. Every pic I'm looking at clearly shows the board flexing up there as the DP ports aren't clearing it.


----------



## Optimus WC

We 100% have our own KP cards  Actually, we had multiples from users as well, so we could test across at least a couple samples. 

As for numbers, we never post our own numbers and benchmarks, this has been true all the way back to the original block. We give a range, so with the KP, we said something like 7-8c die delta. CPUs are harder to give numbers (silly IHS). 

Also, before optimus existed, we only looked at real benchmarks from builders, not companies, so we figure you guys will do the same  We might do real-time vids of our benchmark systems to show what we do. Otherwise, numbers from companies can be fudged.


----------



## Paramedic10

Optimus WC said:


> We 100% have our own KP cards  Actually, we had multiples from users as well, so we could test across at least a couple samples.
> 
> As for numbers, we never post our own numbers and benchmarks, this has been true all the way back to the original block. We give a range, so with the KP, we said something like 7-8c die delta. CPUs are harder to give numbers (silly IHS).
> 
> Also, before optimus existed, we only looked at real benchmarks from builders, not companies, so we figure you guys will do the same  We might do real-time vids of our benchmark systems to show what we do. Otherwise, numbers from companies can be fudged.


Thank you for clearing this up.


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> Can you show me which pic this was in? I can't seem to find it by going through them on my phone. Every pic I'm looking at clearly shows the board flexing up there as the DP ports aren't clearing it.


These are the ones. Only when looking for it does it seem like the block is rubbing the DP ports. Though if the DP was truly conflicting, the block would sit way higher and the die wouldn't have contact. The bow in the PCB is causing the DP to be angled slightly and goes past the gap between the DP and the block, which is why it rubs. Once the bow is gone, everything will sit cleanly.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> These are the ones. Only when looking for it does it seem like the block is rubbing the DP ports. Though if the DP was truly conflicting, the block would sit way higher and the die wouldn't have contact. The bow in the PCB is causing the DP to be angled slightly and goes past the gap between the DP and the block, which is why it rubs. Once the bow is gone, everything will sit cleanly.
> 
> View attachment 2536360
> 
> 
> View attachment 2536361


In that first picture, the card is flipped upside down so the angle it's bent is the opposite direction so it may be hiding it. But if we draw lines, we can see that the problem existed even in that pic. 









As for the second picture, it may be hard to see because the dark areas blend in with the black color of the block. But if we massively increase exposure, and draw lines on the block itself, we can see that it existed there as well:











I'm open to any suggestions you have. But I just want to make sure the facts are clear.


----------



## tps3443

geriatricpollywog said:


> @tps3443 didn’t you order the backplate thermal pad directly from Optimus and install it on your properly machined Kingpin Hydrocopper block? Did you notice whether the pad was difficult to compress and caused any PCB bending?


I use the Optimus Kingpin thermal
pad on my stock 3090 KP Hydro Copper waterblock and backplate. I have never had any issues with my PCB bending at all. PCB is perfectly straight. The pad is super soft, the thermal pads own weight will make it stretch out if not careful.


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> In that first picture, the card is flipped upside down so the angle it's bent is the opposite direction so it may be hiding it. But if we draw lines, we can see that the problem existed even in that pic.
> View attachment 2536362
> 
> 
> As for the second picture, it may be hard to see because the dark areas blend in with the black color of the block. But if we massively increase exposure, and draw lines on the block itself, we can see that it existed there as well:
> 
> 
> View attachment 2536363
> 
> 
> I'm open to any suggestions you have. But I just want to make sure the facts are clear.


Yup, that's what I was referring to  The reason that's happening is the PCB is angled in there, causing the bottom portion of the DP to pull "in" towards the die, thus hitting the block. The distance from the PCB to the backplate and the main block should be equal everywhere.

I imagine this issue popped up after installing the backplate and seeing the PCB angled like that? 

Also, when the main block goes on first, it should be easy to see there is clearance there. I imagine you didn't see any issues then, only later?


----------



## Optimus WC

Also, for anyone following along, his block is just fine  7.8c delta is pretty solid temp .

The only variable we're discussing here are screw install pressure, which causes a visual (not performance) issue. 

TLDR: Do not tighten screws enough to bend the copper backplate, there is zero performance gain. And overtightening will cause bending issues seen here.


----------



## HyperMatrix

tps3443 said:


> I use the Optimus Kingpin thermal
> pad on my stock 3090 KP Hydro Copper waterblock and backplate. I have never had any issues with my PCB bending at all. PCB is perfectly straight. The pad is super soft, the thermal pads own weight will make it stretch out if not careful.


The thermal pad is super soft in the inner section. But all along the outside it’s hard and dry and doesn’t want to compress. That’s part of the problem I’m having.




Optimus WC said:


> Also, when the main block goes on first, it should be easy to see there is clearance there. I imagine you didn't see any issues then, only later?


I can’t recall. I’m afraid to dismantle the block again as the 0.5mm thermal pads are already torn and I had to scrape together some extras that were cut from the oversized pieces provided to replace 2 of them. That is a good question though. I’ll have to order some replacement pads to test this out.


----------



## jacknhut

How do you cancel an order placed by mistake? Optimus website doesnt have the option to cancel order.


----------



## HyperMatrix

jacknhut said:


> How do you cancel an order placed by mistake? Optimus website doesnt have the option to cancel order.


In your order confirmation email there’s a note that says to email [email protected] at the bottom where you can contact them. You can also reply to that same order email to request the cancelation. I’ve done that before and generally they’ve gotten back to me within 24 hours.


----------



## jacknhut

HyperMatrix said:


> In your order confirmation email there’s a note that says to email [email protected] at the bottom where you can contact them. You can also reply to that same order email to request the cancelation. I’ve done that before and generally they’ve gotten back to me within 24 hours.


Thanks, I sent them an email to cancel it. 

On another note, does anyone know if the TechN waterblock for the Intel LGA 1200 work with this LGA 1700 socket for the Asus board (the asus board has holes that fit LGA 1200 block). Did anyone experience any issue regarding contact pressure or temp?


----------



## pennywise359

Now I a m really worried. The PCB is obviously bending like banana. And it is caused by displayport and 2 piece design.


----------



## HyperMatrix

pennywise359 said:


> Now I a m really worried. The PCB is obviously bending like banana. And it is caused by displayport and 2 piece design.
> View attachment 2536382


Despite what they're saying, I fully blame this on the backplate thermal pad. It's not an issue with the block design except for the fact that it's designed around squishing a 3mm thermal pad that covers the entire board into compliance. And the hard/dry edges on the pad I got saying nuh uh. I ain't going nowhere. If it were softer, the thermal pad would squish instead of forcing the PCB to bend when you tightened it down.


----------



## pennywise359

Also look at this, it is all over the place. It is not just "not touching because it is not supposed to" it is obviously misaligned. Maybe multiple thickness pads and standoffs can fix this issue. But sadly now it looks like they were struggling to get it right for months and fed us with false timelines and all kind of excuses, after too many people started cancelling orders they probably decided those who are crazy enough to not return their $600 until this moment will just eat it up and started shipping like it is.


----------



## HyperMatrix

pennywise359 said:


> Also look at this, it is all over the place. It is not just "not touching because it is not supposed to" it is obviously misaligned. Maybe multiple thickness pads and standoffs can fix this issue. But sadly now it looks like they were struggling to get it right for months and fed us with false timelines and all kind of excuses, after too many people started cancelling orders they probably decided those who are crazy enough to not return their $600 until this moment will just eat it up and started shipping like it is.
> View attachment 2536385


The screw on the other side can and does bring it down so it becomes aligned. The problem is, the thermal pad on the backplate has a dry outer area. So if I tighten it down so those align, it causes the hard thermal pad on the other side to push the PCB up. So their solution was to "not tighten it too much because it's not necessary." I think the way I have it tightened down now it's actually decently aligned there. But again despite their insistence that the problem isn't the thermal pad, I'm putting my money on that being the major issue here. Because if the pad were fully soft and conformable, you'd be able to tighten things down without having any excess pressure at all applied to the boards.

I legitimately don't believe there's a design issue with the block. There may be near the displayport connectors but jury is still out on that. They did bring up a good point that I should remove the backplate and see if they still touch the front block before I start screwing things down or not. I don't know what will happen with that aspect of it. But other than that, I've seen nothing that would indicate there's a problem with the block design itself that wouldn't be fully rectified by using a fresh soft thermal pad on the backplate.


----------



## pennywise359

HyperMatrix said:


> The screw on the other side can and does bring it down so it becomes aligned. The problem is, the thermal pad on the backplate has a dry outer area. So if I tighten it down so those align, it causes the hard thermal pad on the other side to push the PCB up. So their solution was to "not tighten it too much because it's not necessary." I think the way I have it tightened down now it's actually decently aligned there. But again despite their insistence that the problem isn't the thermal pad, I'm putting my money on that being the major issue here. Because if the pad were fully soft and conformable, you'd be able to tighten things down without having any excess pressure at all applied to the boards.
> 
> I legitimately don't believe there's a design issue with the block. There may be near the displayport connectors but jury is still out on that. They did bring up a good point that I should remove the backplate and see if they still touch the front block before I start screwing things down or not. I don't know what will happen with that aspect of it. But other than that, I've seen nothing that would indicate there's a problem with the block design itself that wouldn't be fully rectified by using a fresh soft thermal pad on the backplate.


Well, let's hope they will get the thermal pads right. Honestly I am so lost at this point. I am on the verge of requesting a refund but after waiting so long and my kingpin collecting dust for months I still want to put it in some use instead of selling it...


----------



## HyperMatrix

pennywise359 said:


> Well, let's hope they will get the thermal pads right. Honestly I am so lost at this point. I am on the verge of requesting a refund but after waiting so long and my kingpin collecting dust for months I still want to put it in some use instead of selling it...


Performance is pretty good on it for what it's worth. I've temporarily removed one of my D5 pumps and still with 630W draw I'm getting 38C temp with 29C water. I wish they'd just humor me and send me a tested and confirmed super soft fresh thermal pad for the back of the card. Most of the doubt around their product could go away in an instant. But I'm wondering if maybe they have a lot of dry thermal pads and if they accept that there's an issue with the thermal pad, that they'd have to replace them all which is not only a lot of money, but the pads are also extremely hard to get right now. Technically they could cut off just the hard and dry outer edges and replace with soft pads. It doesn't really need to be a unibody thermal pad.

Anyway. Curious to see how this will all be resolved. But on the plus side I have no doubt about the performance of the block.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

@Optimus WC just send him a set of thermal pads. We are now all thinking about your product is dangerous to our cards. You are just saying its visual visual visual visual. We paid you for visuals too. I wont buy a **** looking block just for perf. Please quit saying performance is best. Just send him what he needs.

and you have multiple kingpin cards right? Why dont you show us correctly installed photos of the cards that you tested? So we can decide what will we do with our orders. Easy way to convince us that your product is not incomplate and problematic.

@HyperMatrix mate please ask them to send you replacement thermal pads.

we are not your engineers @Optimus WC we are your customers. I dont wanna risk my card. I never seen any other blocks installed properly. Show us some!


----------



## Darkstar757

Huseyinbaykal said:


> @Optimus WC just send him a set of thermal pads. We are now all thinking about your product is dangerous to our cards. You are just saying its visual visual visual visual. We paid you for visuals too. I wont buy a **** looking block just for perf. Please quit saying performance is best. Just send him what he needs.
> 
> and you have multiple kingpin cards right? Why dont you show us correctly installed photos of the cards that you tested? So we can decide what will we do with our orders. Easy way to convince us that your product is not incomplate and problematic.
> 
> @HyperMatrix mate please ask them to send you replacement thermal pads.
> 
> we are not your engineers @Optimus WC we are your customers. I dont wanna risk my card. I never seen any other blocks installed properly. Show us some!


----------



## Optimus WC

Guys, we're happy to send new pads. Pads are cheap (relative to copper), BUT please listen to us on this:

*The only issue is hypermatrix's block is simply way over-tightened

@HyperMatrix: stop tightening, it's already over-tight, you need to start over and go gentle *

We're acknowledging the instructions are fuzzy about just how tight to go on the screws (edit: we said to go as tight as they can go, but we need to clarify that they should be firm but not so tight it will bend the copper or PCB even). So we're saying* it's not his fault that our instructions were unclear --* it's our job to make it clear. The good news is the block is just as it should be, including with the pads. The block is simply too tight:

Here's why we know this:

*The screws are so tight, the copper bent*
It takes a lot of force to bend a copper block. Copper is copper, after all. We didn't think we'd need to explain this, but we can see how it'd be confusing
*If copper bends, simply too much force has been applied*
*Most importantly, his die contact & temps are excellent! 7.8c delta! Goal achieved *
So the pad compressed exactly as it should 
*The pad CAN'T compress more because the GPU DIE is in the way*
Because the front and back blocks are already pinching the die as hard as it needs to be
*Any additional force and you could break the die*
Meaning, hyper matrix simply needs to start over, get even pressure without overtightening

Does that make sense? *The die is already fully making contact with the blocks, *meaning the goal is achieved! Excellent GPU performance ! The goal of the KP block is NOT to squish the thermal pad down to absolutely nothing. The pad is supposed to be thick and be visible.

*Once he redoes the block assembly without over-tightening and bending copper, the PCB will be straight. Block edges will line up, clearances will be normal.*

For a fun analogy, think of it like squishing a s'more in the middle  He's already squished it in the middle as far as it can possibly go and then some! But he's now trying to squish down everything on the sides, and the marshmallow is shooting out of the sides when it shouldn't. And the PCB/chocolate is all wavy now, possibly breaking. And the edges of the cracker are breaking/bending and hitting the display ports.

How it should look with even pressure everywhere, delicious:










Here's what hypermatrix is experiencing by continually over-tightening the edges:










Think of this: If there was a much softer back pad, the bending would be worse. If there was no pad, the bending would be worse. The die is already squished fully, all that's happening by trying to tighten the edges more is to bend the copper over the die, possibly damaging the die.

Now, why isn't Hypermatrix's block popping back to perfection if he loosens the screws? Because he's keeping the block filled with coolant and in his PC. He should start from step 1, fresh. The pads have already squished more than they should go, the contact is wonky across all the corners. He needs to start from step 1, *otherwise it's like trying to unsquish that s'more *. @HyperMatrix we'll send you new front pads no charge so you can redo it the right way.

Also, regarding the pads:

Fuji PG25 pads have a HUGE amount of oil in them and simply don't get "dry" inside
What may seem "dry" is the additional powder Fuji puts on to keep the pad from gluing itself to the pcb
When the pad is squished, the edges are exposed with more powder
His pad is now hard because it's OVER TIGHTENED -- it should not go any more!
This is NORMAL -- we know this because it's the exact same thing that happens on every GPU we've shipped over the last year

We hope that makes sense! There's a ton of speculation on here about how things should work, but trust us, while unusual, _this is the way,_ and the proof is in the awesome GPU die delta


----------



## satinghostrider

Optimus WC said:


> Guys, we're happy to send new pads. Pads are cheap (relatively), BUT please listen to us on this:
> 
> *The only issue is hypermatrix simply waaaay over-tightened the block.
> 
> He needs to stop tightening and simply loosen and the issues will be fixed! *
> 
> We're acknowledging the instructions can be fuzzy about just how tight to go on the screws (we said "fully," and he went as absolutely hard as he could). So we're saying it's our fault that he had issues, but the block is 100% as it should be, including with the pads. *He just went far too tight. *
> 
> Here's why we know this:
> 
> *He tightened so hard the copper bent.*
> It takes a lot of force to bend a copper block. Copper is copper,* if copper bends, it's just too much force! *
> *Most importantly, the die contact is excellent! *
> So the pad compressed exactly as it should
> Thus, the pad should *not* compress more.
> *The pad CAN'T go more, the die is in the way!*
> Because the front and back blocks are already pinching the die as hard as it needs to be!
> *Any additional force and you could break the die!*
> Meaning, hyper matrix simply needs to dial back the pressure on the block everywhere
> 
> Does that make sense? *The die is already fully making contact with the blocks, *meaning the goal is achieved! Excellent GPU performance ! There is no more the block will go! And you risk damaging things.
> 
> For a fun analogy, think of it like squishing a smore in the middle  He's already squished it in the middle as far as it can possibly go and then some! But he's now trying to squish down everything on the sides, and the marshmallow is shooting out of the sides when it shouldn't. And the edges of the cracker are breaking/bending.
> 
> How it should look -- even pressure everywhere, delicious:
> 
> View attachment 2536393
> 
> 
> Here's what hypermatrix is experiencing by continually over-tightening the edges:
> 
> View attachment 2536394
> 
> 
> *So stop tightening and loosen the edges *
> 
> Think of this: If there was a much softer back pad, the bending would be worse. If there was no pad, the bending would be worse. The die is already squished fully! It's golden  no more squishing is needed!
> 
> Also, regarding the pads:
> 
> Fuji PG25 pads have a HUGE amount of oil in them and simply don't get dry as if it was water-based
> What may seem "dry" is the additional powder Fuji puts on to keep the pad from gluing itself to the pcb
> When the pad is squished, the edges are exposed with more powder
> His pad is now hard because it's OVER TIGHTENED -- it should not go any more!
> This is NORMAL -- we know this because it's the exact same thing that happens on every GPU we've shipped over the last year


I'm getting quite alot of oil residue on my Strix card and was wondering if it's any issue of concern. Understand that it's actually paraffin oil (might be wrong) and non-conductive. Would just like to check it's okay.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> We're acknowledging the instructions can be fuzzy about just how tight to go on the screws (we said "fully," and he went as absolutely hard as he could).


Please stop with this. You didn’t say “fully” or “completely” which could have been misconstrued. You literally said: “Alternate between tightening the 8 installed screws until they are as tight as possible with the included torx key in the tall position.” Following standard logic, this would indicate that you want it to be tightened…as much as possible…within the limitations of what your provided tool can do in the upright position. Hence why you added that qualifier to it. You keep changing the story about why they were tightened the way they were. You follow it up with a “oh but it’s not your fault” and then further follow that up with a “but really…that’s not we told you to do.”

This is completely inappropriate and I’m not going to allow it.















Optimus WC said:


> His pad is now hard because it's OVER TIGHTENED -- it should not go any more!


This comment is beyond idiotic. Over tightening a thermal pad doesn’t cause just the outer portions which were previously open and exposed to air, to become hard. This is once again you trying to pass the buck. It couldn’t have been a problem with the pad you provided. I DRIED IT OUT by over tightening it. BUT ONLY AROUND THE EDGES THAT WERE EXPOSED TO AIR previously.

Come on man…you can’t think this is making you look good…






Optimus WC said:


> Most importantly, the die contact is excellent!
> So the pad compressed exactly as it should
> Thus, the pad should not compress more.


This is patently false. The bend is happening because the block is going down to meet the die in that area. But the *other areas* are NOT compressing down to the same level because the dry and hard thermal pad is preventing that from happening.

Basically, when you put the backplate on the pcb and start tightening it down, it’s pulling the backplate and front block together. Sandwiching the board. But in some areas….the thermal pad is not going down evenly. Because some areas of it are hard and dry. And this cause some parts of the PCB to get bent and pushed down and not stay straight with the rest of the board. SO INSTEAD OF THE THERMAL PAD CONFORMING TO THE PCB, THE PCB IS FORCED TO FLEX TO CONFORM TO THE THERMAL PAD. Comprende?


----------



## Optimus WC

satinghostrider said:


> I'm getting quite alot of oil residue on my Strix card and was wondering if it's any issue of concern. Understand that it's actually paraffin oil (might be wrong) and non-conductive. Would just like to check it's okay.


Youre 100% good to go


----------



## pennywise359

It is pretty interesting how they completely ignore the fact that their own pictures indicate the PCB is bent. There is no way it is an optical illusion or lens distortion. And no it is not OK to have a pcb with tightly packed components under tension while it is going through different temperature cycles. Considering the cost of product and the time investment it must be flawless.


----------



## HyperMatrix

pennywise359 said:


> It is pretty interesting how they completely ignore the fact that their own pictures indicate the PCB is bent. There is no way it is an optical illusion or lens distortion. And no it is not OK to have a pcb with tightly packed components under tension while it is going through different temperature cycles. Considering the cost of product and the time investment it must be flawless.


No it’s completely my fault. I forgot that 30 seconds after compressing a thermal pad you cause it to dry out. I’m such a noob.


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> Please stop with this. You didn’t say “fully” or “completely” which could have been misconstrued. You literally said: “Alternate between tightening the 8 installed screws until they are as tight as possible with the included torx key in the tall position.” Following standard logic, this would indicate that you want it to be tightened…as much as possible…within the limitations of what your provided tool can do in the upright position. Hence why you added that qualifier to it. You keep changing the story about why they were tightened the way they were. You follow it up with a “oh but it’s not your fault” and then further follow that up with a “but really…that’s not we told you to do.”
> 
> This is completely inappropriate and I’m not going to allow it.
> 
> View attachment 2536403
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This comment is beyond idiotic. Over tightening a thermal pad doesn’t cause just the outer portions which were previously open and exposed to air, to become hard. This is once again you trying to pass the buck. It couldn’t have been a problem with the pad you provided. I DRIED IT OUT by over tightening it. BUT ONLY AROUND THE EDGES THAT WERE EXPOSED TO AIR previously.
> 
> Come on man…you can’t think this is making you look good…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is patently false. The bend is happening because the block is going down to meet the did in that area. But the *other areas* are NOT compressing down to the same level because the dry and hard thermal pad is preventing that from happening.
> 
> Basically, when you put the backplate on the pcb and start tightening it down, it’s pulling the backplate and front block together. Sandwiching the board. But in some areas….the thermal pad is not going down evenly. Because some areas of it are hard and dry. And this cause some parts of the PCB to get bent and pushed down and not stay straight with the rest of the board. SO INSTEAD OF THE THERMAL PAD CONFORMING TO THE PCB, THE PCB IS FORCED TO FLEX GO CONFORM TO THE THERMAL PAD. Comprende?


Good points. To reiterate, we'll send you whatever you need, because we were unclear. We just want to avoid a similar experience, because the replacement pad you receive will be the exact same as the one you got, and it'll be a pain to install. 

And, yes, we did say "as far as it will go" and we didn't explain how far that should be. We need to revise the instruction language to say it should be firm but not over-tight. 











To explain the rear thermal pad, in this pic, the compression is excellent and exactly as it should be. 

The pad becomes hard on the edge because that edge represents ALL the pad that's been compressed across the entire board, not just the edge portion if that makes sense. You're squeezing everything to the max, so the pad is trying to squish out the sides, but it's already under so much tension, it just won't go any more. 

Also, right before you received your pad, we cut the pad out of a mega sheet, so it's all the same material, same oil, same everything up to the hour before we shipped it out. 

As the user posted above regarding the strix pad (which is the exact same), the pads are oily, and stay oily. 

What you're experiencing is the mica powder on top of the thermal pad. The powder is dry.

Again, the die contact is excellent, right? So that is what is supposed to happen. But if the copper has bent, that means it's too tight, not just there, but most likely everywhere.


----------



## Optimus WC

pennywise359 said:


> It is pretty interesting how they completely ignore the fact that their own pictures indicate the PCB is bent. There is no way it is an optical illusion or lens distortion. And no it is not OK to have a pcb with tightly packed components under tension while it is going through different temperature cycles. Considering the cost of product and the time investment it must be flawless.


Hey there, we're not ignoring that, the pcb is what we're trying to fix here 

The PCB should not be bent like that. What we're trying to explain is that if the screws are too tight, it's going to cause all kinds of issues.










See how the distance between the backplate and the PCB is closer in the green area? That's because there is less pad there. And it's over tightened, bending the backplate/pcb into each other.

So by continually trying to get the pads to squish more and more, it's causing areas to bend, like that corner, where there is less/no pad.


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> No it’s completely my fault. I forgot that 30 seconds after compressing a thermal pad you cause it to dry out. I’m such a noob.


We're definitely not saying you're a noob -- we know you're super experienced, your corsair PC build with the block is insanely awesome!! 

What we're saying is this Fuji thermal pad is unusual. We paid Fuji to ADD MICA POWDER to it, so it's easy to work with. Thus, the pad will feel dry everywhere, not just on the edges. The pic above of the imprint would look waaay different and sticky if there wasn't mica powder all over. 

We might be the only ones who do this? Not 100% about that, we're def the only ones who provide a mega back thermal pad like this. 

If you cut the 3mm pads apart, you'll find they're filled with oil. With a top powder layer to prevent sticking.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> The pad becomes hard on the edge because that edge represents ALL the pad that's been compressed across the entire board, not just the edge portion if that makes sense. You're squeezing everything to the max, so the pad is trying to squish out the sides, but it's already under so much tension, it just won't go any more.


The problem is that it’s hard even after the tension has been relieved. I didn’t touch the pad or notice the hardness until I took the backplate off the first time and tried to squish and flatten the thermal pad for correct contact on the next mount. The areas in the middle were incredibly soft and the outer areas were very hard and I had difficulty pressing them downwards. So when I say it’s dry I don’t mean the texture was powdery. I mean that I had to apply several times the pressure to the outer region in order to compress/flatten them. And if I’m feeling that pressure when pushing down with my thumb, I can easily see why those exact same areas are causing both PCB flex as well as copper block flex.

I just ordered some 0.5mm pads from Amazon and will remove the backplate and see if the DisplayPort connectors will clear the main block when nothing is screwed in. From there, it should be easier to know what needs to be done to resolve this.


----------



## pennywise359

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, we're not ignoring that, the pcb is what we're trying to fix here
> 
> The PCB should not be bent like that. What we're trying to explain is that if the screws are too tight, it's going to cause all kinds of issues.
> 
> View attachment 2536405
> 
> 
> See how the distance between the backplate and the PCB is closer in the green area? That's because there is less pad there. And it's over tightened, bending the backplate/pcb into each other.
> 
> So by continually trying to get the pads to squish more and more, it's causing areas to bend, like that corner, where there is less/no pad.


Thanks for clarifying because it seemed to me like you were trying to show a picture of proper mount. So far we haven't seen a single picture with straight PCB and it is concerning.



HyperMatrix said:


> The problem is that it’s hard even after the tension has been relieved. I didn’t touch the pad or notice the hardness until I took the backplate off the first time and tried to squish and flatten the thermal pad for correct contact on the next mount. The areas in the middle were incredibly soft and the outer areas were very hard and I had difficulty pressing them downwards. So when I say it’s dry I don’t mean the texture was powdery. I mean that I had to apply several times the pressure to the outer region in order to compress/flatten them. And if I’m feeling that pressure when pushing down with my thumb, I can easily see why those exact same areas are causing both PCB flex as well as copper block flex.
> 
> I just ordered some 0.5mm pads from Amazon and will remove the backplate and see if the DisplayPort connectors will clear the main block when nothing is screwed in. From there, it should be easier to know what needs to be done to resolve this.


Thanks for sharing all this, can't wait for the update!


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> The problem is that it’s hard even after the tension has been relieved. I didn’t touch the pad or notice the hardness until I took the backplate off the first time and tried to squish and flatten the thermal pad for correct contact on the next mount. The areas in the middle were incredibly soft and the outer areas were very hard and I had difficulty pressing them downwards. So when I say it’s dry I don’t mean the texture was powdery. I mean that I had to apply several times the pressure to the outer region in order to compress/flatten them. And if I’m feeling that pressure when pushing down with my thumb, I can easily see why those exact same areas are causing both PCB flex as well as copper block flex.
> 
> I just ordered some 0.5mm pads from Amazon and will remove the backplate and see if the DisplayPort connectors will clear the main block when nothing is screwed in. From there, it should be easier to know what needs to be done to resolve this.


Yup, makes sense, I know what you're talking about.

To clarify, the pad material is 100% the same from edge to edge, especially since we cut the pad out of a mega pad with a stamp less than an hour before we shipped it to you. So from the factory, the entire pad is the exact same, edge to edge.

That's why "I didn’t...notice the hardness until I took the backplate off the first time and tried to squish and flatten the thermal pad for correct contact on the next mount. "

That's because the pad wasn't hard when you first got it.

What you're experiencing is the pad hardness AFTER it's been compressed the first time. The pad is attempting to squeeze out the sides, and it can only go so far. The pad is very squishly, but with a limit. When that limit is hit, it becomes extremely hard and won't compress any more. This applies in the vertical as well as horizontal. (if you push a capacitor into the pad, it'll go right through. If you ball up the entire pad, it'll be hard as a rock. It's weird stuff)

So pad compression = hard pad. Mica powder = dry (and it won't feel like powder, because it's impregnated into the top layer. It'll just feel dry)

But the main thing is, based on your pad pic above, everything looks fine!  It's just the screws don't need to be so tight along the edges. The pad really, really doesn't need to compress that much. The screw in the green in the pic above shows how far it has gone beyond the needed tightness. And the copper does not need to bend ever, if it is bending, then that means it's over-tightened. The goal here is to have good die pressure, not to flatten the thermal pad, if that makes sense.


----------



## criskoe

@HyperMatrix At this point Id just tear down the card completely to individual parts. Photograph all the parts individually and check for any permanent bending on the parts from the obviously poor initial instructions.( IE Back block ). And if the back block is now warped. Full stop there and have optimus send you a new backblock with ALL new thermal pads.

If all the parts are strait and still good then just wait for them to send you ALL new pads before you try again. Dont waste anymore of your time on this and totally dont spend any more of your own money on pads from amazon. All new pads should be sent either way so you can properly start from scratch with the new instructions..


----------



## iamjanco

When in doubt about the calibration of one's fingertips...









*Link*, just in case anyone's interested.


----------



## criskoe

iamjanco said:


> When in doubt about the calibration of one's fingertips...
> 
> *Link*, just in case anyone's interested.


The wiha drivers sure are nice. The normal T6 screw driver one I got worked wonders for the gpu cold plate screws. My ifixit t6 snapped so easy with little force. 

Anyways. 12.5 in pounds seems like a little much tho yeah??? I mean that's enough to crack brittle EK acrylic. LOL... EK suggest .6 nm which is only 5.32 in lbs. They even have their own torque tool you can buy now... LOL.. Im sure its just a rebranded cheap ass tool tho... EK-Loop Torque Screwdriver - 0.6Nm

Obviously the optimus acrylic is much more robust and much less prone to cracking. But would this be too much? Its like 2.5x more torque.


----------



## iamjanco

criskoe said:


> The wiha drivers sure are nice. The normal T6 screw driver one I got worked wonders for the gpu cold plate screws. My ifixit t6 snapped so easy with little force.
> 
> Anyways. 12.5 in pounds seems like a little much tho yeah??? I mean that's enough to crack brittle EK acrylic. LOL... EK suggest .6 nm which is only 5.32 in lbs. They even have their own torque tool you can buy now... LOL.. Im sure its just a rebranded cheap ass tool tho... EK-Loop Torque Screwdriver - 0.6Nm
> 
> Obviously the optimus acrylic is much more robust and much less prone to cracking. But would this be too much? Its like 2.5x more torque.


12.5 in pounds is what I use (Intel specs 12.0) for LGA 3647 cpu sockets. I would think it should be just right for the purposes being discussed here, as long as you keep in mind that you move from one screw to the next and tighten a bit at a time, until everything's tightened the way it should be.


----------



## Optimus WC

Guys, please don't use a torque driver at any strength on this block anywhere. You will run into problems, please trust us on this. A socket like 3647, TR, etc has a much different install torque requirement than the backplate involved. 1.5Nm (the TR wrench) will absolutely wreck the block. 

Will update shortly with instructions for HM, but, again, please trust us that we've not only designed and built the block, but we've taken them and reassembled the KP blocks dozens of times and the other blocks hundreds of times. We know what needs to be done


----------



## iamjanco

You da boss (but 12.5 in lbs isn't a lot of torque). That said, my fingertips are calibrated fairly well.


----------



## Optimus WC

iamjanco said:


> You da boss (but 12.5 in lbs isn't a lot of torque). That said, my fingertips are calibrated fairly well.


Thanks  yes, please follow our soon-to-be updated instructions 

Interestingly, 1.5Nm (13.3ftlbs) will destroy the gpu. 1.5 will actually cause LGA 1200 to break the socket. We've tested it because we wanted to see if we included the TR thumb nuts for our TR block on LGA if people could use the TR 1.5Nm wrench. And the answer is no. We have piles of dead boards. And dead GPUs because we tested all this, pushing it to the limits.

Another point: the speculation and over-tightening of the screw is what is causing HM's problems, while good ideas, trying to treat the KP block like a "normal" block is our internal concern. The KP is a very precise block, and people should really ask us questions about how it works, before trying to figure out DIY solutions. 

Here, the backplates screws need to go in so they catch and are snug, but are not tight anywhere near a CPU tighteness. Just slightly tight, prob less than 1ftlbs. 

ONLY the die screws themselves should be fully tight.


----------



## Biggu

so ive read through this a bit, Is it possible that at some point in the manufacturing process that the clearances changed on the kingpin which is due to the manufacture of the card sourcing different components? not saying this is the case but we know there are shortages everywhere is it possible they had to swap to some thing else which could contribute to this? Is there a reason that the clearances to the display ports need to be so tight? Why not just open the area up a bit more that way the bending due to display hitting is a non issue. Also I have no idea where HM is from, but maybe it would be helpfull to send the card in its current state to Optimus for review. I gotta say, I love the Optimus product and everything they have done (well minus the ceramic coating aesthetics) but I gotta admit even this has gotten me to second guess and loose confidence in the product.

*edit, also the fact that the theads of the mounting hardware on my Signature v2 were so messed up I couldn't even use them. I always forget about it then I look and see them sitting on my desk and brings up the horrors.


----------



## Optimus WC

Biggu said:


> so ive read through this a bit, Is it possible that at some point in the manufacturing process that the clearances changed on the kingpin which is due to the manufacture of the card sourcing different components? not saying this is the case but we know there are shortages everywhere is it possible they had to swap to some thing else which could contribute to this? Is there a reason that the clearances to the display ports need to be so tight? Why not just open the area up a bit more that way the bending due to display hitting is a non issue. Also I have no idea where HM is from, but maybe it would be helpfull to send the card in its current state to Optimus for review. I gotta say, I love the Optimus product and everything they have done (well minus the ceramic coating aesthetics) but I gotta admit even this has gotten me to second guess and loose confidence in the product.


There's really no problem with HM's card or block  

This is just one of those massive unfortunate events. The simple issue is HM tightened *the back screws so tight they are bending copper.*

It's our mess up that we said "as tight as they can go" but should have given better tightening instructions. But under no circumstance should any screws be so tight that a copper block will bend! 

Make sense? 

Also, the Display area is the exact same on the KP block as our FTW blocks that have been out there for a good amount of time now. The entire issue is the block was overtightened so the copper bent. That's 100% of the problem. 

To redesign the block to account for an extreme over-tightening scenario would be backwards -- we just need to revise the instructions so people know how to tighten properly . Because with over-tightening, it'll do all sorts of other bad things as well.


----------



## criskoe

Biggu said:


> so ive read through this a bit, Is it possible that at some point in the manufacturing process that the clearances changed on the kingpin which is due to the manufacture of the card sourcing different components? not saying this is the case but we know there are shortages everywhere is it possible they had to swap to some thing else which could contribute to this? Is there a reason that the clearances to the display ports need to be so tight? Why not just open the area up a bit more that way the bending due to display hitting is a non issue. Also I have no idea where HM is from, but maybe it would be helpfull to send the card in its current state to Optimus for review. I gotta say, I love the Optimus product and everything they have done (well minus the ceramic coating aesthetics) but I gotta admit even this has gotten me to second guess and loose confidence in the product.
> 
> *edit, also the fact that the theads of the mounting hardware on my Signature v2 were so messed up I couldn't even use them. I always forget about it then I look and see them sitting on my desk and brings up the horrors.


They have already said multiple times that the display ports are close but if the block is installed correctly with their new "updated instructions" that there should be no contact issues with the display ports.

Until hypermatrix gets new thermal pads and backplate if his is warped now and other people start getting their blocks. No sense in beating this dead horse anymore... lol...

@Optimus WC hope you have email blasted anyone that got the first shipment with old instructions. LOL... Or your gunna have alot of upset people..

Might be a good idea to put a huge bright yellow card in the box warning people to not tighten tight.. Maybe even pictures of hypermatrix bent card to show what will happen when you over tighten. ( with his permission of course )


----------



## iamjanco

Optimus WC said:


> Thanks  yes, please follow our soon-to-be updated instructions
> 
> Interestingly, 1.5Nm (13.3ftlbs) will destroy the gpu. 1.5 will actually cause LGA 1200 to break the socket. We've tested it because we wanted to see if we included the TR thumb nuts for our TR block on LGA if people could use the TR 1.5Nm wrench. And the answer is no. We have piles of dead boards. And dead GPUs because we tested all this, pushing it to the limits.
> 
> Another point: the speculation and over-tightening of the screw is what is causing HM's problems, while good ideas, trying to treat the KP block like a "normal" block is our internal concern. The KP is a very precise block, and people should really ask us questions about how it works, before trying to figure out DIY solutions.
> 
> Here, the backplates screws need to go in so they catch and are snug, but are not tight anywhere near a CPU tighteness. Just slightly tight, prob less than 1ftlbs.
> 
> ONLY the die screws themselves should be fully tight.


Not to beat a dead horse any further mind you (see my sig), but 1.5Nm is actually 13.27611865106805 inlbs (not 13.3ftlbs; big difference between inlbs and ftlbs with 1ftlb = 12inlbs).

As for _"We have piles of dead boards,"_ pix or it didn't happen. Some of us are strong supporters of that approach to substantiation. Hint, hint.

Lastly, _"people should really ask us questions about how it works, before trying to figure out DIY solutions," _your customers and potential customers would probably do that (and have already often made the attempt) if you didn't have a knack for disappearing weeks at a time into the ethereal. That's another hint.

Anyway, you've currently got the floor, Horatio, so lead on 

Edit (added): some of us would love to see actual pix of your workshop. That's often one of the criteria I use when selecting (e.g.) a waterjet cutting service.

Btw, did I mention I'm a boomer?


----------



## Optimus WC

iamjanco said:


> Not to beat a dead horse any further mind you (see my sig), but 1.5Nm is actually 13.27611865106805 inlbs (not 13.3ftlbs; big difference between inlbs and ftlbs with 1ftlb = 12inlbs).
> 
> As for _"We have piles of dead boards,"_ pix or it didn't happen. Some of us are strong supporters of that approach to substantiation. Hint, hint.
> 
> Lastly, _"people should really ask us questions about how it works, before trying to figure out DIY solutions," _your customers and potential customers would probably do that (and have already often made the attempt) if you didn't have a knack for disappearing weeks at a time into the ethereal. That's another hint.
> 
> Anyway, you've currently got the floor, Horatio, so lead on


Ya, good catch, yes, 13.3lnlbs lol. As for responding here to everything, there's lots of blocks to ship and emails to answer, responding on OCN is basically a full time job (and overnight job, like last night, ooof)



criskoe said:


> They have already said multiple times that the display ports are close but if the block is installed correctly with their new "updated instructions" that there should be no contact issues with the display ports.
> 
> Until hypermatrix gets new thermal pads and backplate if his is warped now and other people start getting their blocks. No sense in beating this dead horse anymore... lol...
> 
> @Optimus WC hope you have email blasted anyone that got the first shipment with old instructions. LOL... Or your gunna have alot of upset people..
> 
> Might be a good idea to put a huge bright yellow card in the box warning people to not tighten tight.. Maybe even pictures of hypermatrix bent card to show what will happen when you over tighten.


Ya, good idea on the warning card! That's what we're trying to figure out, just how to tell people what to do here. 

And I need to email blast people, as soon as I'm off OCN  And no time to take pics of our piles of dead stuff, lol, but the performance numbers should speak to our willingness to find the extreme limits 

So regarding the thermal pads, there's good news for HM:

He can have his card and block looking 100% golden in under an hour! 
No extra pads are needed (assuming following our instructions)
The "bent" block will just spring back into form once pressure is released
The backplate thermal pad is still 100% good. The Fuji PG pads are very expensive and flexible
We've reused the back pads many, many times with the KP (as well as new pads, obvs)
Give the pad a little breathing room and it'll be just fine

INSTRUCTIONS FOR @HyperMatrix:

Remove the rear block, all the rear screws, and keep the thermal pad on the rear block, you will reuse the pad
LEAVE the front block installed! No reason to redo the pads/paste on the front.
With no back block, check to make sure front block CLEARS the DP ports. (it might need to be jiggled a bit, since it's probably rubbing there)
Make sure the PCB has no warp or flex in it, since there is no pressure on the PCB now, it should be fully straight
Re-install the REAR block but go EXTREMELY LIGHTLY with the install screws
ONLY the die screws (red rectangle) should be firm! By "firm" we mean go until there is basic resistance, not cranked down as hard as they will go
If copper bends, it's too much force. 
Rear thermal pad does NOT need to compress very much at all
Only the green screws should be tightened more -- lightly and only as needed -- to get the terminal to line up
PCB should now be virtually straight. Performance should be perfectly excellent. 

REGARDING SENDING NEW PADS:

The rear pad is made to be reused and it's our official recommendation to follow our instructions and reuse the rear pad  
And it'll take longer to get new pads, etc. The rear pads are custom and take forever to get from Fuji Japan. Unless the pad is completely ripped up or rolled into a ball, it's 100% fine to reuse
Re-installing the rear pad is a pain, because the pads are very squishy and stretchy
Just don't remove the front block! Because, yes, that will require new front pads (which we will send, no cost)


----------



## Optimus WC

iamjanco said:


> Edit (added): some of us would love to see actual pix of your workshop. That's often one of the criteria I use when selecting (e.g.) a waterjet cutting service.


Hopefully soon! We're still moving stuff in, and moving our testing room into a new place. We want to even have a space people can visit and see how this stuff works in person, since we're in Chicago after all  

And, oooh, waterjets  We want to get one at some point, possibly for cutting copper bar and sheet stock.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Hopefully soon! We're still moving stuff in, and moving our testing room into a new place. We want to even have a space people can visit and see how this stuff works in person, since we're in Chicago after all
> 
> And, oooh, waterjets  We want to get one at some point, possibly for cutting copper bar and sheet stock.


Would be nice to see your guys setup.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Ya, good catch, yes, 13.3lnlbs lol. As for responding here to everything, there's lots of blocks to ship and emails to answer, responding on OCN is basically a full time job (and overnight job, like last night, ooof)
> 
> 
> 
> Ya, good idea on the warning card! That's what we're trying to figure out, just how to tell people what to do here.
> 
> And I need to email blast people, as soon as I'm off OCN  And no time to take pics of our piles of dead stuff, lol, but the performance numbers should speak to our willingness to find the extreme limits
> 
> So regarding the thermal pads, there's good news for HM:
> 
> He can have his card and block looking 100% golden in under an hour!
> No extra pads are needed (assuming following our instructions)
> The "bent" block will just spring back into form once pressure is released
> The backplate thermal pad is still 100% good. The Fuji PG pads are very expensive and flexible
> We've reused the back pads many, many times with the KP (as well as new pads, obvs)
> Give the pad a little breathing room and it'll be just fine
> 
> INSTRUCTIONS FOR @HyperMatrix:
> 
> Remove the rear block, all the rear screws, and keep the thermal pad on the rear block, you will reuse the pad
> LEAVE the front block installed! No reason to redo the pads/paste on the front.
> With no back block, check to make sure front block CLEARS the DP ports. (it might need to be jiggled a bit, since it's probably rubbing there)
> Make sure the PCB has no warp or flex in it, since there is no pressure on the PCB now, it should be fully straight
> Re-install the REAR block but go EXTREMELY LIGHTLY with the install screws
> ONLY the die screws (red rectangle) should be firm! By "firm" we mean go until there is basic resistance, not cranked down as hard as they will go
> If copper bends, it's too much force.
> Rear thermal pad does NOT need to compress very much at all
> Only the green screws should be tightened more -- lightly and only as needed -- to get the terminal to line up
> PCB should now be virtually straight. Performance should be perfectly excellent.
> 
> REGARDING SENDING NEW PADS:
> 
> The rear pad is made to be reused and it's our official recommendation to follow our instructions and reuse the rear pad
> And it'll take longer to get new pads, etc. The rear pads are custom and take forever to get from Fuji Japan. Unless the pad is completely ripped up or rolled into a ball, it's 100% fine to reuse
> Re-installing the rear pad is a pain, because the pads are very squishy and stretchy
> Just don't remove the front block! Because, yes, that will require new front pads (which we will send, no cost)


As someone who often encounters users errors, thank you for still being respectful when dealing with our issues.


----------



## tps3443

HyperMatrix said:


> Performance is pretty good on it for what it's worth. I've temporarily removed one of my D5 pumps and still with 630W draw I'm getting 38C temp with 29C water. I wish they'd just humor me and send me a tested and confirmed super soft fresh thermal pad for the back of the card. Most of the doubt around their product could go away in an instant. But I'm wondering if maybe they have a lot of dry thermal pads and if they accept that there's an issue with the thermal pad, that they'd have to replace them all which is not only a lot of money, but the pads are also extremely hard to get right now. Technically they could cut off just the hard and dry outer edges and replace with soft pads. It doesn't really need to be a unibody thermal pad.
> 
> Anyway. Curious to see how this will all be resolved. But on the plus side I have no doubt about the performance of the block.


My thermalpad was not dry at all around the edges. This is a picture of my Optimus Kingpin rear thermal pad installed in to the backplate. You can buy these for $38 bucks. This thermalpad makes all the difference for temps. I was using a Optimus FTW3 pad originally because, Optimus did not have the Kingpin rear pad in stock.

The Optimus FTW3 full coverage pad was not hard, and the Optimus Kingpin pad was not hard either.

I did have to cut each thermal pad to fit perfectly. The Optimus Kingpin pad was nearly perfect in size already.


----------



## Optimus WC

We reassembled a block this morning (and even used a "used" rear thermal pad to emulate HM's experience)

Here's what the block should look like correctly assembled (minus oled and bracket):



















































Some notes:

You'll notice the distance from the blocks to the PCB is pretty uniform, the PCB is straight, the block clears the DP ports, and performance is A+.
Some tiny flex in PCB is normal (but obviously not what HM experienced), but this is true of all gpu waterblocks
In these pics we did extreme tightening on the four die screws. This isn't needed but we wanted to see what would happen. There is some flex in the copper, but it's not as obvious as what HM experienced. This is because the rest of the screws are not tightened to the max, but just tightened sufficiently.
You can either choose to tighten the die screws firmly, or go all out. The tighter the die screws, the better the performance (within a degree or less, tbh).
The good news is even going all out, any deviation in the copper backplate is barely noticeable, even in these pictures. And 100% invisible when the block is installed in a PC

*We'll revise the instructions again so people can be confident their installed block will look like this *


----------



## chibi

Optimus WC said:


> We reassembled a block this morning (and even used a "used" rear thermal pad to emulate HM's experience)
> 
> Here's what the block should look like correctly assembled (minus oled and bracket):
> 
> 
> View attachment 2536460
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some notes:
> 
> You'll notice the distance from the blocks to the PCB is pretty uniform, the PCB is straight, the block clears the DP ports, and performance is A+.
> Some tiny flex in PCB is normal (but obviously not what HM experienced), but this is true of all gpu waterblocks
> In these pics we did extreme tightening on the four die screws. This isn't needed but we wanted to see what would happen. There is some flex in the copper, but it's not as obvious as what HM experienced. This is because the rest of the screws are not tightened to the max, but just tightened sufficiently.
> You can either choose to tighten the die screws firmly, or go all out. The tighter the die screws, the better the performance (within a degree or less, tbh).
> The good news is even going all out, any deviation in the copper backplate is barely noticeable, even in these pictures. And 100% invisible when the block is installed in a PC
> 
> *We'll revise the instructions again so people can be confident their installed block will look like this *



Great, now do it again, but this time with a camera rolling


----------



## chibi

iamjanco said:


> Not to beat a dead horse any further mind you (see my sig), but 1.5Nm is actually 13.27611865106805 inlbs (not 13.3ftlbs; big difference between inlbs and ftlbs with 1ftlb = 12inlbs).
> 
> As for _"We have piles of dead boards,"_ pix or it didn't happen. Some of us are strong supporters of that approach to substantiation. Hint, hint.
> 
> Lastly, _"people should really ask us questions about how it works, before trying to figure out DIY solutions," _your customers and potential customers would probably do that (and have already often made the attempt) if you didn't have a knack for disappearing weeks at a time into the ethereal. That's another hint.
> 
> Anyway, you've currently got the floor, Horatio, so lead on
> 
> Edit (added): some of us would love to see actual pix of your workshop. That's often one of the criteria I use when selecting (e.g.) a waterjet cutting service.
> 
> Btw, did I mention I'm a boomer?


If I get to choose who to nominate for cool uncle award, definitely goes to @iamjanco 😄


----------



## dng25

@Optimus WC Is it required to use the left side for inlet (bottom) and outlet (top)?


----------



## Optimus WC

dng25 said:


> @Optimus WC Is it required to use the left side for inlet (bottom) and outlet (top)?


You can go reverse, but there will be some performance hit. How much? Not much, but if you're aiming for crazy performance, you want to use the inlet


----------



## tbrown7552

So with the pad being hard they said its some powder **** that fujipoly puts on there to keep it from drying out on the edges. Then they said that the pads are stamped out of a larger pad. This isnt lining up. Im sure the powder stuff is true but it doesnt explain why all of the outside edges of his stamped pad is dried out/hard.

One thing i did notice in hypers unboxing pics is the backplate foam looked like it had gotten wet or was wet. It truly looks like the pad leached out and the foam soaked it up. Im thinking this could be the culprit or possibly freezing temperatures since its getting cold now.


----------



## Optimus WC

tbrown7552 said:


> So with the pad being hard they said its some powder **** that fujipoly puts on there to keep it from drying out on the edges. Then they said that the pads are stamped out of a larger pad. This isnt lining up. Im sure the powder stuff is true but it doesnt explain why all of the outside edges of his stamped pad is dried out/hard.
> 
> One thing i did notice in hypers unboxing pics is the backplate foam looked like it had gotten wet or was wet. It truly looks like the pad leached out and the foam soaked it up. Im thinking this could be the culprit or possibly freezing temperatures since its getting cold now.



To be clear, his back thermal pad is perfectly fine 

What he's seeing is an artifact of the the Fuji PG25 pad with Mica Powder. The pads feel dry from the beginning. They're not drying out, it's naturally dry. If it didn't have the powder, it'd be like oily gum. 

As for being hard, that's what happens when the pad is compressed. These Fuji pads are really unusual in how they work -- they're super squishy like soft cheese, but once they get any pressure, they compress and turn very hard. So the raw sheet is floppy and will pull apart. But ball up the thermal pad and it's so hard you could break a window with it.


----------



## Optimus WC

This is his pad -- excellent imprints from edge to edge. And the pad didn't stick to the PCB. Everything is as it should be


----------



## dng25

Optimus WC said:


> You can go reverse, but there will be some performance hit. How much? Not much, but if you're aiming for crazy performance, you want to use the inlet


Can we use the other unused ports or are we locked in to the left side only?


----------



## Optimus WC

Only that left port, the others get capped off. This is unfortunately how active backplates need to work.


----------



## tbrown7552

Optimus WC said:


> To be clear, his back thermal pad is perfectly fine
> 
> What he's seeing is an artifact of the the Fuji PG25 pad with Mica Powder. The pads feel dry from the beginning. They're not drying out, it's naturally dry. If it didn't have the powder, it'd be like oily gum.
> 
> As for being hard, that's what happens when the pad is compressed. These Fuji pads are really unusual in how they work -- they're super squishy like soft cheese, but once they get any pressure, they compress and turn very hard. So the raw sheet is floppy and will pull apart. But ball up the thermal pad and it's so hard you could break a window with it.


Can you guys make an in depth instructional video for this block? I feel like it would help alot.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

my order is 10 numbers after hm and still didnt get any mail or notification. Do you guys still ship every day? @Optimus WC


----------



## tps3443

@Optimus WC 


Would I have fitment issues with my Z590 Dark, and 3090Kingpin??

I’m ready to order, but I’m a little concerned the active back plate will hit my motherboards heatsinks.


----------



## Optimus WC

It's possible, we don't have a board to confirm the heights of that heatsink. The block does have cutouts for tall components there, but we haven't tested the board.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

tps3443 said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> 
> Would I have fitment issues with my Z590 Dark, and 3090Kingpin??
> 
> I’m ready to order, but I’m a little concerned the active back plate will hit my motherboards heatsinks.


Your VRM doesn’t even need a heatsink.

That said, I would wait for more people to get their KPE block before ordering. You are getting fantastic results with your Hydrocopper block anyway.


----------



## tps3443

geriatricpollywog said:


> Your VRM doesn’t even need a heatsink.
> 
> That said, I would wait for more people to get their KPE block before ordering. You are getting fantastic results with your Hydrocopper block anyway.


Yeah your right. It’s a shame this block has taken so long to arrive. I’ve had my 3090 Kingpin for like 6 months now.


I could always move the GPU to the lower PCI-e and run X8. This is one legitimate benefit of having PCI-E 4.0. We wouldn’t have a bandwidth problem at only x8 to our GPU’s.


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey guys, most recent instructions, updated with your feedback and additional info about performance and tightening. Let me know if there are any questions/thoughts!


----------



## Paramedic10

Thanks for posting these updated and detailed instructions @Optimus WC 

Could you shed a little light on your production times/expectations for those of us who are waiting for the KPE block? Not looking for hard dates, just and idea of what you are looking at for estimated times to ship for those who ordered during pre-order, and those who ordered afterwards. Many of us have our rigs pulled apart or on hold waiting for the final piece. Thanks!


----------



## HyperMatrix

@Optimus WC I think you guys over-tightened this block. Just untighten some of the screws and it'll straighten out. Sorry the instructions were unclear.









p.s. Sorry. I couldn't resist. 

edit: This is a picture of a block professionally pre-installed and sent to a customer. Just thought it was funny. Haha.


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> @Optimus WC I think you guys over-tightened this block. Just untighten some of the screws and it'll straighten out. Sorry the instructions were unclear.
> View attachment 2536781
> 
> 
> p.s. Sorry. I couldn't resist.
> 
> edit: This is a picture of a block professionally pre-installed and sent to a customer. Just thought it was funny. Haha.


That pic was definitely taken with a fish eye lens, making the center bulge out.

Joking! Yes, the end of the card will have some flex. Nothing to worry about here. Below is another pic of that end, there is still some tiny warp, but Shawn's pic makes it look especially bad 











Here's the rest of his block -- pretty straight through the critical areas. But, honestly, let's start looking at performance numbers!  that's what this thing is all about, I reaaaally want to see how far you guys can push this thing!!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> That pic was definitely taken with a fish eye lens, making the center bulge out.
> 
> Joking! Yes, the end of the card will have some flex. Nothing to worry about here. Below is another pic of that end, there is still some tiny warp, but Shawn's pic makes it look especially bad
> 
> View attachment 2536791
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the rest of his block -- pretty straight through the critical areas. But, honestly, let's start looking at performance numbers!  that's what this thing is all about, I reaaaally want to see how far you guys can push this thing!!
> 
> View attachment 2536789
> 
> 
> View attachment 2536790


Gives me a bit of hope. Waiting for 0.5mm pads to arrive tomorrow so I can dismantle the block and see about repositioning and realigning the block relative to the board. I'll likely still need a backplate/thermal pad replacement as that's kind of permanently bent after my earlier handiwork with the screws. Haha. Just hoping the main block is ok. Will let you know soon as I find out. And definitely won't hear me complain about the performance.


----------



## yaohanzex

Optimus WC said:


> That pic was definitely taken with a fish eye lens, making the center bulge out.
> 
> Joking! Yes, the end of the card will have some flex. Nothing to worry about here. Below is another pic of that end, there is still some tiny warp, but Shawn's pic makes it look especially bad
> 
> View attachment 2536791
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the rest of his block -- pretty straight through the critical areas. But, honestly, let's start looking at performance numbers!  that's what this thing is all about, I reaaaally want to see how far you guys can push this thing!!
> 
> View attachment 2536789
> 
> 
> View attachment 2536790


I reaaaaaaaally want to know when you can increase the production speed. According to customers' post and feedback, about two blocks were shipped out on average since last Friday. If current production speed persists, most of us won't have this block in hand until 2022 with holiday season getting close. And that is unacceptable in my opinion.


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> Gives me a bit of hope. Waiting for 0.5mm pads to arrive tomorrow so I can dismantle the block and see about repositioning and realigning the block relative to the board. I'll likely still need a backplate/thermal pad replacement as that's kind of permanently bent after my earlier handiwork with the screws. Haha. Just hoping the main block is ok. Will let you know soon as I find out. And definitely won't hear me complain about the performance.


Honestly, we're pretty confident you can fix it right now with no additional pads  

The examples of our assembled block we did are using a USED rear thermal pad. AND we went super hard on certain screws to emulate bending, to make sure the block "bounced back."

So here's all you need to do:

Remove rear block
Do NOT remove the rear thermal pad
LEAVE front block on
Make sure the DP ports now clear the front block (they should, because the rear block isn't tweaking the PCB any longer)
Now, go back and reinstall the rear block using the updated instructions aka gentle

We're 99% sure this will work for you (unless something got damaged that we haven't seen)


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> Honestly, we're pretty confident you can fix it right now with no additional pads
> 
> The examples of our assembled block we did are using a USED rear thermal pad. AND we went super hard on certain screws to emulate bending, to make sure the block "bounced back."
> 
> So here's all you need to do:
> 
> Remove rear block
> Do NOT remove the rear thermal pad
> LEAVE front block on
> Make sure the DP ports now clear the front block (they should, because the rear block isn't tweaking the PCB any longer)
> Now, go back and reinstall the rear block using the updated instructions aka gentle
> 
> We're 99% sure this will work for you (unless something got damaged that we haven't seen)


Well the backplate is visually damaged although it likely won’t result in any functional deficiencies. The areas I tightened the cyan screws won’t straighten out anymore. And the thermal pad is now hard and a mess as a result of, according to you, me overtightening it. All I know is that the outer portions refuse to compress (even by hand when backplate is removed).

The reason I want to wait is that with the initial pressure applied, the 0.5mm pads got very compressed. Likely down to 0.1-0.2mm. So they’re incredibly brittle. Even just wiggling it around will cause it to tear and break apart and reduce contact with the components. So it’ll be much easier and safer to have some extra pads on hand to replace them as needed. Fortunately, Amazon weekend delivery means I should have an answer by tomorrow night.


----------



## Optimus WC

yaohanzex said:


> I reaaaaaaaally want to know when you can increase the production speed. According to customers' post and feedback, about two blocks were shipped out on average since last Friday. If current production speed persists, most of us won't have this block in hand until 2022 with holiday season getting close. And that is unacceptable in my opinion.


Speeds are picking up! Lots more to go out next week.



HyperMatrix said:


> Well the backplate is visually damaged although it likely won’t result in any functional deficiencies. The areas I tightened the cyan screws won’t straighten out anymore. And the thermal pad is now hard and a mess as a result of, according to you, me overtightening it. All I know is that the outer portions refuse to compress (even by hand when backplate is removed).


Ah, makes sense. The rear pad, however, is super special (as I keep saying lol), and even if it's "hard" it'll conform when applied again. It's really cool stuff, tbh. The outer portions don't need to compress, it's not about pad compression, it's about die contact


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> Ah, makes sense. The rear pad, however, is super special (as I keep saying lol), and even if it's "hard" it'll conform when applied again. It's really cool stuff, tbh. The outer portions don't need to compress, it's not about pad compression, it's about die contact


I'll try it out on Saturday and see how the mount/flex work out. I think you guys owe me a matching Matte Black Cerakote Signature V2 replacement block top for using my images in your social media and installation guide though.


----------



## dng25

Anyone going lm on their kp?


----------



## iamjanco

*NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050, RTX 3070 Ti 16 GB and RTX 3090 Ti to all be available in January, with a CES 2022 announcement on the cards*

seemed appropriate to post it here.


----------



## HyperMatrix

dng25 said:


> Anyone going lm on their kp?


I have been since launch. I don’t believe in paste.


----------



## dwolvin

iamjanco said:


> *NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050, RTX 3070 Ti 16 GB and RTX 3090 Ti to all be available in January, with a CES 2022 announcement on the cards*
> 
> seemed appropriate to post it here.


'Available'...


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> 'Available'...


excuse for us with non kingpin to get kingpin for optimus blocks


----------



## dwolvin

Right? I'm kinda hoping to score some ones used 3080 or higher with a WB when those come out. You know people that need to upgrade every time will do so again...


----------



## Gotspeed_2000

When are the silver/nickel blocks shipping? It seems like you only are sending out blacks. tbh you guys should correct your website and tweets to state blocks are being sent out by color(black) first unless there is anyone out there that has gotten anything other than black. Also do you have all the parts necessary for the kits to be sent out. 

Those with Pre-Orders including myself have been waiting for 4 plus months now.


----------



## dng25

HyperMatrix said:


> I have been since launch. I don’t believe in paste.



Did you use kapton tape or nail polish around the die?


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

dng25 said:


> Did you use kapton tape or nail polish around the die?


 I’m using LM on my Strix 3090 Block and haven’t used anything around for protection. I’ve done quite a few CPU and GPU’S with LM and never had a issue. Just don’t overdo it and you should be good!

Most of those horror stories from people are when they **** it up completely,I’ve seen videos guys letting LM drip all over the place and then it’s “Be careful,here’s my story” point is don’t be a ****** and you’ll be fine!


----------



## HyperMatrix

dng25 said:


> Did you use kapton tape or nail polish around the die?


MG chemicals conformal coating.


----------



## Optimus WC

Gotspeed_2000 said:


> When are the silver/nickel blocks shipping? It seems like you only are sending out blacks. tbh you guys should correct your website and tweets to state blocks are being sent out by color(black) first unless there is anyone out there that has gotten anything other than black. Also do you have all the parts necessary for the kits to be sent out.
> 
> Those with Pre-Orders including myself have been waiting for 4 plus months now.


Hey there, I believe you ordered two blocks at different times? One in July and one in August. We see a note to ship both at once. We can't ship a later order first, so we're holding onto the first one until the second can ship. People usually do this because the system needs all parts for a specific build. But if you want us to send the first one now, we can do that. Color doesn't matter for shipping, it's just that the vast majority of people wanted black.


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> MG chemicals conformal coating.


And yes please everyone don't mess around with liquid metal unless you coat the pcb. Even the most pro people can get wrecked by lms weird nature. A tiny rogue bit that you don't even notice can fry a card instantly. Speaking from experience.


----------



## Gotspeed_2000

Optimus,



Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, I believe you ordered two blocks at different times? One in July and one in August. We see a note to ship both at once. We can't ship a later order first, so we're holding onto the first one until the second can ship. People usually do this because the system needs all parts for a specific build. But if you want us to send the first one now, we can do that. Color doesn't matter for shipping, it's just that the vast majority of people wanted black.


I ordered only one Kingpin block. I have two other FTW3 blocks with the latest one ordered about 6 weeks ago and delivered this past week. Each block was ordered separately so I paid for shipping each time. 

But are you guys really ready to ship the silver/nickel ones? I'm seeing people after my order number getting notifications of their blocks being shipped and the issue I have is about clear communications. If you only were going to ship the blacks first because of some issue, just be clear about it. The other issue is more that I'd like an idea of when my block is going to be shipped. Watching other people who ordered after me is kinda getting to me since I placed the order, been waiting for the release, and now it's released based on what was shared on twitter and your website that blocks are being shipped by order number when that is clearly not the case. Please keep in mind that while I support your products, your communication has not been the clearest in regards to shipping, release, and now the order in which blocks are being shipped out. I'd like to know if I'm getting my block this week, next month, etc. I'm sure that if you were in my shoes and have been waiting for this you would feel similar to what I am.


----------



## Optimus WC

Gotspeed_2000 said:


> Optimus,
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered only one Kingpin block. I have two other FTW3 blocks with the latest one ordered about 6 weeks ago and delivered this past week. Each block was ordered separately so I paid for shipping each time.
> 
> But are you guys really ready to ship the silver/nickel ones? I'm seeing people after my order number getting notifications of their blocks being shipped and the issue I have is about clear communications. If you only were going to ship the blacks first because of some issue, just be clear about it. The other issue is more that I'd like an idea of when my block is going to be shipped. Watching other people who ordered after me is kinda getting to me since I placed the order, been waiting for the release, and now it's released based on what was shared on twitter and your website that blocks are being shipped by order number when that is clearly not the case. Please keep in mind that while I support your products, your communication has not been the clearest in regards to shipping, release, and now the order in which blocks are being shipped out. I'd like to know if I'm getting my block this week, next month, etc. I'm sure that if you were in my shoes and have been waiting for this you would feel similar to what I am.


Ah, must have been a different person, hard to remember user names. What is your order number?


----------



## dng25

HyperMatrix said:


> MG chemicals conformal coating.


silicone or acrylic?


----------



## HyperMatrix

dng25 said:


> silicone or acrylic?


Silicone modified. #422B


----------



## Gotspeed_2000

Optimus WC said:


> Ah, must have been a different person, hard to remember user names. What is your order number?


My order number is 5211. 

I really want clarity from you guys about when you are shipping things out or plan to. The mixed messages or lack of clarity is what frustrates me as a user and supporter of your products. You guys make great products, but the messages about being ready to ship and then delaying without sharing something to those who are waiting is something that I believe that can be worked on. Another is the shipping order like I shared. 

When you say "lots more going out next week", that's relative to the person saying it. From users here and at the EVGA forums, only a handful of users got their blocks or shipping notifications. How about providing details if the shipping is truly by order numbers saying orders 5200 to 5300 are expected to ship this week and so on. But clearly it appears that shipping is not following order numbers which is the reason why I'm getting frustrated by the issue. I've been waiting to install my Kingpin based on timelines shared on the website from the release of the initial purchase. I'm thinking by the time I get the block a new model of the 3090 is going to be released and maybe even a new Kingpin too before I get to even really use my Kingpin which has been sitting in it's box for the last 5 months. I've tried to be patient and supportive of your products and the delays, but tbh this is getting really old quick as I hear others getting their shipping notices or seeing them post their pictures of their blocks installed.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> Silicone modified. #422B


Going to buy it right now!

Didn‘t know about this,I mean nothing happened so far but better be safe and put it on then not,right?!
Thanks


----------



## criskoe

HyperMatrix said:


> Silicone modified. #422B


Can this stuff be easily removed if need be? 

Ive been using high temp liquid electrical tape. Seems to work well and it can peel right off if you need it to. Ive done a few laptops with it. But for laptops I also add a very thin foam barrier around the socket.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Gotspeed_2000 said:


> My order number is 5211.
> 
> I really want clarity from you guys about when you are shipping things out or plan to. The mixed messages or lack of clarity is what frustrates me as a user and supporter of your products. You guys make great products, but the messages about being ready to ship and then delaying without sharing something to those who are waiting is something that I believe that can be worked on. Another is the shipping order like I shared.
> 
> When you say "lots more going out next week", that's relative to the person saying it. From users here and at the EVGA forums, only a handful of users got their blocks or shipping notifications. How about providing details if the shipping is truly by order numbers saying orders 5200 to 5300 are expected to ship this week and so on. But clearly it appears that shipping is not following order numbers which is the reason why I'm getting frustrated by the issue. I've been waiting to install my Kingpin based on timelines shared on the website from the release of the initial purchase. I'm thinking by the time I get the block a new model of the 3090 is going to be released and maybe even a new Kingpin too before I get to even really use my Kingpin which has been sitting in it's box for the last 5 months. I've tried to be patient and supportive of your products and the delays, but tbh this is getting really old quick as I hear others getting their shipping notices or seeing them post their pictures of their blocks installed.



At this point I truly believe that a person with a 5 year olds brain capacity is running OPTIMUS!

My stance about them hasnt changed,the products are top quality and my Strix 3090 is extremely good but god everything else is horrendous.
There’s no ****ing way these guys did stuff for space,with how they’re acting with watercooling there’s no way they ”just became like this”…no wonder they went from space to earthly water 🤣

…”Optimus brings over 50 years in aerospace and surgical device manufacturing to PC liquid cooling.”…

That there has to be a joke


----------



## Biggu

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> …”Optimus brings over 50 years in aerospace and surgical device manufacturing to PC liquid cooling.”…
> 
> That there has to be a joke



maybe their main customer was government where a time frame is merely a suggestion?


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Going to buy it right now!
> 
> Didn‘t know about this,I mean nothing happened so far but better be safe and put it on then not,right?!
> Thanks


Can also consider the thermal grizzly tg shield. It’s colored so you can easily see where it’s been applied and how thick. With the mg chemicals one it can be a bit hard as it’s clear. 









Thermal Grizzly High Performance Cooling Solutions - TG Shield


Hochwertige Wärmeleitlösungen für Computerchips




www.thermal-grizzly.com







criskoe said:


> Can this stuff be easily removed if need be?
> 
> Ive been using high temp liquid electrical tape. Seems to work well and it can peel right off if you need it to. Ive done a few laptops with it. But for laptops I also add a very thin foam barrier around the socket.
> 
> View attachment 2537118


I’ve never needed to remove it so I’m not sure. They sell a conformal coating removal liquid / pen but I’m sure there are easier and cheaper ways of doing it. This is a thin clear coating that you can barely see and looks OEM and shouldn’t impede you in any way. Is there a particular reason you’re interested in removal?









8309 - Conformal Coating Remover


Strips acrylics, polyurethanes, and silicones Liquid format allows for full submersion of PCBs Safe on metals Contains no SVHCs Biodegradable Available in liquid (Cat No. 8309-850 and 8309-3.78L) and pen (Cat No. 8309-P) formats




www.mgchemicals.com





And for the record, in over 100 liquid metal applications I’ve done, I’ve never had a situation where the liquid metal has dripped on to the conformal coating. Proper liquid metal application is perfectly fine. This is just an extra protective measure. And especially helpful for people who apply liquid metal as thick as they do thermal paste. Haha. So while I do recommend taking additional steps to protect your equipment, I don’t want to create any unnecessary levels of fear or misunderstanding around liquid metal. Proper application is more important than tape and protective coatings.


----------



## criskoe

HyperMatrix said:


> I’ve never needed to remove it so I’m not sure. They sell a conformal coating removal liquid / pen but I’m sure there are easier and cheaper ways of doing it. This is a thin clear coating that you can barely see and looks OEM and shouldn’t impede you in any way. Is there a particular reason you’re interested in removal?


I was mainly just curious. I like the option of being able to return something to stock easily. Whether that be for RMA or to just need to return it to stock. .


----------



## iamjanco

*The Ultimate Guide for Conformal Coating Removal*

Could come in handy in case anyone wants to be somewhat sure they won't void their warranty if and when they might need it.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> At this point I truly believe that a person with a 5 year olds brain capacity is running OPTIMUS!
> 
> My stance about them hasnt changed,the products are top quality and my Strix 3090 is extremely good but god everything else is horrendous.
> There’s no ****ing way these guys did stuff for space,with how they’re acting with watercooling there’s no way they ”just became like this”…no wonder they went from space to earthly water 🤣
> 
> …”Optimus brings over 50 years in aerospace and surgical device manufacturing to PC liquid cooling.”…
> 
> That there has to be a joke


The lack of transparency, delays, and hit and miss quality all point to e-commerce manufacturing. I think Optimus parts are made in China.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

geriatricpollywog said:


> The lack of transparency, delays, and hit and miss quality all point to e-commerce manufacturing. I think Optimus parts are made in China.


I don’t want to burst anyone’s rainbow colored little bubble but at this point if you really think OPTIMUS manufacturers stuff in Chicago you are kinda slow up there!
Way to many unknown delays,going silent for 1 month and constant delays and as you said hit or miss quality all point to them being full of ****…but ofc we can’t say that here a lot of people are greatful that OPTIMUS answers questions “nicely” but somehow never gets mentioned when they’re absent for a month.

Everytime something comes from China they have power outages like every single time,so why wouldn’t OPTIMUS lose communication with us for a month due to no electricity? 🙂


----------



## Optimus WC

Lol! thanks, needed the laugh


----------



## acoustic

Mods should clean this thread up..


----------



## geriatricpollywog

@Optimus WC do you have any photos or videos of your facility in Chicago? EK and Watercool have a lot of videos.


----------



## HyperMatrix

criskoe said:


> Can this stuff be easily removed if need be?
> 
> Ive been using high temp liquid electrical tape. Seems to work well and it can peel right off if you need it to. Ive done a few laptops with it. But for laptops I also add a very thin foam barrier around the socket.
> 
> View attachment 2537118


Just as a comparison...this is the before and after of conformal coating on my Kingpin from last year. You don't need to coat your entire board. Haha.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Mods should clean this thread up..


This thread is lost. Close this thread up


----------



## Paramedic10

I'd beg to differ, there's been some very good info on here as of late (except for people just bashing and slinging mud) and Optimus themselves have been quite active on it recently.

It's hard enough to get in touch with Optimus as it is, why eliminate a thread they've been active in


----------



## Section31

Paramedic10 said:


> I'd beg to differ, there's been some very good info on here as of late (except for people just bashing and slinging mud) and Optimus themselves have been quite active on it recently.
> 
> It's hard enough to get in touch with Optimus as it is, why eliminate a thread they've been active in


Lol. Most of the original people here are largely gone too, so its up to you guys now. I was busy working on Mr.Suit (things go wrong) and came in to see the chat lol.


----------



## satinghostrider

Guys, I 3D printed an RGB bracket for the Strix Optimus Block and it turned out really nice. Took me a while to get the color right with the Satin Cerakoted finish and I think this pigment for the 3D print looks absolutely amazing. Just snap it on and it fits like a condom. Let me know what you think about it. 😊

@Optimus WC


----------



## dwolvin

Really nice!

@Section31 What's Mr. Suit? And why can't I stop singing 'Mr Plow?'


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Really nice!
> 
> @Section31 What's Mr. Suit? And why can't I stop singing 'Mr Plow?'


An very popular tkl custom keyboard.


----------



## dwolvin

Ah- nice looking KB!


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Ah- nice looking KB!


I kind of moving towards that hobby (also sinkhole). Taking it easy on watercooling and hardware for next 2-3years at least. 

Overall really satisfied with my build. More i tinker with it, i know its an well designed long term build with some minor issues i got to live with.

Given how watercooling products releases are nowadays, will take 2years for stuff like Optimus Glass Reservoir, Rads, Sig V3, Rotary 90 and Extenders to release.

That and the next thing scheduled for replacement is the Mo-Ra3 420, looking at diy external rad based off 2-3 560mm Optimus or Watercool Rads.

Case wise Going to wait out for Caselabs Revival at this point and go route of s8 base, atx mobo tray (i got eatx) and other replacement parts (in different color)


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

I dont belive they ship everyday. I cant belive when they are not transparrent.


----------



## HyperMatrix

@Optimus WC So I have an update on the block. One of which you may want to make a note of in your install guide. I dismantled the block, except for the heat sink. I then tried to sit the front portion of the block on the die and ran into 2 peculiar issues. First of which was that if I tried to sit the block so that it cleared the DP ports, the other side of the block wouldn't come down. It would snag against the heatsink! I loosened the screws on the heatsink and pushed it over as much as I could before tightening the screws again, and it would now fit. Here are some pics:


























Now...even after I moved the Heatsink which allowed the main block to "technically" clear the DP ports...the board is still slanting up. It doesn't properly sit flat. I don't know if this is due to the height of certain component clearances on the block, or if the previous flexing has left some permanent residual bends on my board. Either way, I would say not a huge issue especially since I can't pinpoint the cause and it's not as serious of an issue as the previous flexing. Also in order to help push the board downwards a bit and straighten it out, I pushed some of the thermal pad on the backplate towards the edge of the card. That way as I tightened it down, it did help reduce the bend in the board.

Big heads up for anyone doing installs/reinstalls here...make sure there is no thermal pad left by the screw holes. It comes with space cleared for the holes from the factory. But after reshaping the pad, I ended up with some too close to the edge of the holes and a couple of the screws pulled some of it down into the thread (at least this is what I'm assuming happened) because I couldn't fully tighten 2 of the screws afterwards even though I dismantled it and tried to clean out the holes of any remaining thermal pad bits.

Now...one area of concern...this may be due to the damage from the flex to the backplate from the first install. But I have a lot of bleeding past the seals/gasket of the backplate. There is literally 0 bleed on the front of the block. And I never touched the screws that hold the plexi in place. But asides from the original permanent bend/flex around the cyan screws from the first install, the backplate...well...take a look:


















The overall board flex is significantly reduced but not entirely gone, despite that I think it's at a point that I'd consider it safe to operate - minus the bleeding issues on the backplate.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

That backplate will leak? Looks like that


----------



## HyperMatrix

Huseyinbaykal said:


> That backplate will leak? Looks like that


Since the bleed has made it all the way to the outer edge of the plexi, it would appear that it's a possibility. This isn't necessarily a flaw with the backplate design, mind you. It's likely a result of tightening and flexing the backplate based on the original incorrect install guide. The backplate did indeed flex a lot when I tightened it as per their original instructions.


----------



## elbramso

I've installed my block yesterday and based on the new instructions and HyperMatrix experience, it went quite smoothly. 
However I am not getting the same performance numbers although I tightened the die screws a lot. My delta is 8.7c @520w which still is insanely good tbh. 
One thing I noticed is that if you tighten the oled screws a bit to much it will bend the pcb. 
I'll post some pictures if someone is interested.


----------



## HyperMatrix

elbramso said:


> I've installed my block yesterday and based on the new instructions and HyperMatrix experience, it went quite smoothly.
> However I am not getting the same performance numbers although I tightened the die screws a lot. My delta is 8.7c @520w which still is insanely good tbh.
> One thing I noticed is that if you tighten the oled screws a bit to much it will bend the pcb.
> I'll post some pictures if someone is interested.


Well mine was 7.something at around 480-500W. A degree difference at 520W isn’t that bad. Using conductonaut? Also what’s the delta between your GPU temp and your hotspot temp? Also how many pumps/what’s your flow rate?

Glad there’s someone I can compare notes with finally.


----------



## elbramso

I just put the block on and did some basic testing to see if something is wrong. Will do all the other tests today. 
I'm using the KPE paste not LM and I have a single pump in my loop. 
One thing I noticed is that my flow went down by a huge amount. I went from ~180lph down to 130lph. I'm using the flow sensor of my d5 next pump so I don't know how accurate it is.


----------



## HyperMatrix

elbramso said:


> I just put the block on and did some basic testing to see if something is wrong. Will do all the other tests today.
> I'm using the KPE paste not LM and I have a single pump in my loop.
> One thing I noticed is that my flow went down by a huge amount. I went from ~180lph down to 130lph. I'm using the flow sensor of my d5 next pump so I don't know how accurate it is.


Considering you only have one pump and are using thermal paste instead of LM…your 8.7C delta is actually remarkably good. And yes this block has a massive fin stack and counts as 2 components because of the backplate. So pressure will drop. And at 130lph you’re definitely below ideal flow although d5 next flow pump is virtualized estimate and not actual flow rate so I’m not sure if it’s accuracy either.

But yeah 8.7C delta with just 1 pump and regular thermal paste…You’re making me feel like my block isn’t working properly. I should have a much better delta than you.

Out of curiosity, where is your pump located relative to the GPU? Is it Pump-> GPU -> Radiator or GPU -> Pump -> Radiator?

Trying to understand where your loop temperature is being measured. For mine, 7.x C was the delta from my coldest water to GPU die. But if I were to go off of the sensor from one of the pumps that the GPU outlet fed into, my water temperature would have been at least 2C hotter. So in that case I could have made my delta seem like it was actually 5C. Because I was getting delta from GPU die to temperature of heated water exiting the GPU, which is different from the cooled water I would have had going into the GPU after passing through my radiators. Does that make sense?


----------



## elbramso

Nevermind, my numbers where wrong 
Currently looping port royal and I'm more at 9.4c @480w.
So nothing super crazy going on with my block  maybe I should tighten the die screws a little more...
My loop order is:
Pump - > gpu - > Rad1 - > CPU - > Rad2 - > Rad 3 

Gpu die - gpu Hotspot is 10.2c delta


----------



## HyperMatrix

elbramso said:


> Nevermind, my numbers where wrong
> Currently looping port royal and I'm more at 9.4c @480w.
> So nothing super crazy going on with my block  maybe I should tighten the die screws a little more...
> My loop order is:
> Pump - > gpu - > Rad1 - > CPU - > Rad2 - > Rad 3
> 
> Gpu die - gpu Hotspot is 10.2c delta


You can improve your delta with liquid metal and additional pumps. The ideal flow rate is 1GPM. But honestly even 9.4C is very impressive with regular thermal paste with the loop setup you’ve stated above. My friend has an EK block on his 3090 and even with liquid metal is getting a delta of around 12-15C if I’m not mistaken. So to get 9.4C with regular paste…is very impressive.


----------



## elbramso

I might go with LM in the future. For now if I want my card 2c cooler, I can open a window 😂
Nah I'm happy with the block. I had the Hydrocopper before and it was terrible in comparison. Yes, some made even this block shin but I just couldn't make it work...


----------



## elbramso

I thing that really bothers me now ist that my Port Royal score is 200pts lower...








Result







www.3dmark.com




Thats my best run compared to my run from today. Although my average clock was higher and the card ran cooler my score is lower 
My guesss it's a fresh windows compared to a 3 month old one or a certain service pack or patch lowered my performance.

The good news is, I was able to run 2220MHz start to finish and that I no longer have to worry about thermal throttling^^


----------



## Optimus WC

Pretty good results sofar 😁

To confirm, your delta is die vs coolant temp and not die vs ambient air temp, correct?


----------



## elbramso

Yes it's die vs water temp. Ambient air would be sick 
So is this what I should get? I see a die to water temp delta of ~13c @640w or ~9.5c @480w

Btw. with this block I've seen my card running at 2250mhz for the first time 

Edit:
I just tried to tighten the die screws even more and now I'm getting worse results 
The acrylic has way more resistance than the copper parts of the block. It seems to be easy to get uneven die pressure when you act like a fool (like me)


----------



## dwolvin

Section31 said:


> I kind of moving towards that hobby (also sinkhole). Taking it easy on watercooling and hardware for next 2-3years at least.
> 
> Overall really satisfied with my build. More i tinker with it, i know its an well designed long term build with some minor issues i got to live with.
> 
> Given how watercooling products releases are nowadays, will take 2years for stuff like Optimus Glass Reservoir, Rads, Sig V3, Rotary 90 and Extenders to release.
> 
> That and the next thing scheduled for replacement is the Mo-Ra3 420, looking at diy external rad based off 2-3 560mm Optimus or Watercool Rads.
> 
> Case wise Going to wait out for Caselabs Revival at this point and go route of s8 base, atx mobo tray (i got eatx) and other replacement parts (in different color)


Yeah, I love a decent KB, but I'm not going to spend $500 on one. My fairly cheap hotswap received Boba switches and I can't see going more in depth unless it's to replace failed parts.


----------



## Optimus WC

elbramso said:


> Yes it's die vs water temp. Ambient air would be sick
> So is this what I should get? I see a die to water temp delta of ~13c @640w or ~9.5c @480w
> 
> Btw. with this block I've seen my card running at 2250mhz for the first time
> 
> Edit:
> I just tried to tighten the die screws even more and now I'm getting worse results
> The acrylic has way more resistance than the copper parts of the block. It seems to be easy to get uneven die pressure when you act like a fool (like me)


You should only tighten the four screws in the red rectangle in the instructions. Pressure should be even, regardless of how tight they are,even though they are on diff materials. Those are die screws and tighter will yield better results. Of course, all this said, temp numbers that low without more scientific regulation can very well be within margin of error. We use gpu z, icx can give diff numbers. But your GPU clock is looking great and that's what matters.


----------



## elbramso

Speaking of a good looking block, here are some pictures


----------



## elbramso

And one more picture of this beast mounted 90 degrees clockwise in my case.
Yes, it's function over aesthetic^^


----------



## chibi

Optimus next project 90 rotaries please! These gosh awful Bitspower/Barrow ones gotta go


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> You should only tighten the four screws in the red rectangle in the instructions. Pressure should be even, regardless of how tight they are,even though they are on diff materials. Those are die screws and tighter will yield better results. Of course, all this said, temp numbers that low without more scientific regulation can very well be within margin of error. We use gpu z, icx can give diff numbers. But your GPU clock is looking great and that's what matters.


No reply to my comment?


----------



## acoustic

chibi said:


> Optimus next project 90 rotaries please! These gosh awful Bitspower/Barrow ones gotta go


My bits power rotaries work fine.. not sure what makes them awful?


----------



## dng25

chibi said:


> Optimus next project 90 rotaries please! These gosh awful Bitspower/Barrow ones gotta go


I don't even want to know how much those would cost from optimus lol..


----------



## LiquidHaus

We need terminals in acetal!


----------



## chibi

acoustic said:


> My bits power rotaries work fine.. not sure what makes them awful?


I received a bad batch of BP 90's that leaked previously. I've had 300+ BP fittings and only 7 leaked from past experience. Second is that the colour doesn't match the Optimus fittings I have now. The leaking fittings were not an issue, PPCs sent out replacements that were fine. It's more of colour mismatch for me.


----------



## acoustic

chibi said:


> I received a bad batch of BP 90's that leaked previously. I've had 300+ BP fittings and only 7 leaked from past experience. Second is that the colour doesn't match the Optimus fittings I have now. The leaking fittings were not an issue, PPCs sent out replacements that were fine. It's more of colour mismatch for me.


God damn, calling them gosh awful because of a color mismatch .. lol


----------



## chibi

acoustic said:


> God damn, calling them gosh awful because of a color mismatch .. lol


I'd say that's a lot more toned down and slightly amusing compared to other comments of various vendors in this thread... LOL.


----------



## iamjanco

chibi said:


> Optimus next project 90 rotaries please! These gosh awful Bitspower/Barrow ones gotta go
> 
> 
> 
> acoustic said:
> 
> 
> 
> My bits power rotaries work fine.. not sure what makes them awful?
> 
> 
> 
> chibi said:
> 
> 
> 
> I received a bad batch of BP 90's that leaked previously. I've had 300+ BP fittings and only 7 leaked from past experience. Second is that the colour doesn't match the Optimus fittings I have now. The leaking fittings were not an issue, PPCs sent out replacements that were fine. *It's more of colour mismatch for me.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Never had a Bitspower rotary fail on me and I've used a lot of them.


----------



## Biggu

HyperMatrix said:


> No reply to my comment?


they ignorning you


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> @Optimus WC So I have an update on the block. One of which you may want to make a note of in your install guide. I dismantled the block, except for the heat sink. I then tried to sit the front portion of the block on the die and ran into 2 peculiar issues. First of which was that if I tried to sit the block so that it cleared the DP ports, the other side of the block wouldn't come down. It would snag against the heatsink! I loosened the screws on the heatsink and pushed it over as much as I could before tightening the screws again, and it would now fit. Here are some pics:
> 
> View attachment 2537403
> 
> View attachment 2537404
> 
> View attachment 2537405
> 
> 
> Now...even after I moved the Heatsink which allowed the main block to "technically" clear the DP ports...the board is still slanting up. It doesn't properly sit flat. I don't know if this is due to the height of certain component clearances on the block, or if the previous flexing has left some permanent residual bends on my board. Either way, I would say not a huge issue especially since I can't pinpoint the cause and it's not as serious of an issue as the previous flexing. Also in order to help push the board downwards a bit and straighten it out, I pushed some of the thermal pad on the backplate towards the edge of the card. That way as I tightened it down, it did help reduce the bend in the board.
> 
> Big heads up for anyone doing installs/reinstalls here...make sure there is no thermal pad left by the screw holes. It comes with space cleared for the holes from the factory. But after reshaping the pad, I ended up with some too close to the edge of the holes and a couple of the screws pulled some of it down into the thread (at least this is what I'm assuming happened) because I couldn't fully tighten 2 of the screws afterwards even though I dismantled it and tried to clean out the holes of any remaining thermal pad bits.
> 
> Now...one area of concern...this may be due to the damage from the flex to the backplate from the first install. But I have a lot of bleeding past the seals/gasket of the backplate. There is literally 0 bleed on the front of the block. And I never touched the screws that hold the plexi in place. But asides from the original permanent bend/flex around the cyan screws from the first install, the backplate...well...take a look:
> 
> View attachment 2537406
> 
> View attachment 2537408
> 
> 
> The overall board flex is significantly reduced but not entirely gone, despite that I think it's at a point that I'd consider it safe to operate - minus the bleeding issues on the backplate.


Hey, good notes! 

At this point, it's almost impossible to tell what's going on since it's not a fresh install, though seems like it's mostly working except for the backplate?

It's possible what you're seeing on the backplate is condensation or liquid that got in there from capillary action from all the variety of testing. We've seen that before, it can typically be cleaned out by removing the top, wiping and then reinstalling. Sometimes it's actually humidity that shows up there as a kind of vapor (this happens when Chicago gets crazy humid in the summer).

That said, give it a test, pressurize that sucker. If that is actual leaking on the backplate, we'll replace that copper backplate no cost. Email us with your real name and number.


----------



## Gotspeed_2000

My order 5211 got shipped out today from Optimus. Silver with nickel. Thank you Matt.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Optimus WC said:


> Hey, good notes!
> 
> At this point, it's almost impossible to tell what's going on since it's not a fresh install, though seems like it's mostly working except for the backplate?
> 
> It's possible what you're seeing on the backplate is condensation or liquid that got in there from capillary action from all the variety of testing. We've seen that before, it can typically be cleaned out by removing the top, wiping and then reinstalling. Sometimes it's actually humidity that shows up there as a kind of vapor (this happens when Chicago gets crazy humid in the summer).
> 
> That said, give it a test, pressurize that sucker. If that is actual leaking on the backplate, we'll replace that copper backplate no cost. Email us with your real name and number.


Regardless of whether that particular issue would be resolved by me doing that, the fact that the backplate is still bent from following your original install guide isn't ok with me and I'd like to have it swapped out, along with some new screws. (1x green, 1x cyan, 1x purple, 1x yellow). I'm tired of disconnecting and draining to keep doing what feels like beta testing installation guides and would like to be able to enjoy the performance of my block for more than 2 days in a row. Seeing GPU temps at 29C with 400W draw is nice and something I've never seen before. I'd like to be able to do more of it if you know what I mean.


----------



## Optimus WC

HyperMatrix said:


> Regardless of whether that particular issue would be resolved by me doing that, the fact that the backplate is still bent from following your original install guide isn't ok with me and I'd like to have it swapped out, along with some new screws. (1x green, 1x cyan, 1x purple, 1x yellow). I'm tired of disconnecting and draining to keep doing what feels like beta testing installation guides and would like to be able to enjoy the performance of my block for more than 2 days in a row. Seeing GPU temps at 29C with 400W draw is nice and something I've never seen before. I'd like to be able to do more of it if you know what I mean.


Yup, email us with your actual name and order number and we'll get the parts sent out


----------



## elbramso

Well guys I'm back in the top50 in Port Royal 








I scored 16 231 in Port Royal


Intel Core i9-10900K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}




www.3dmark.com




It turned out, that I simply forgot to OC my CPU as well the last time I tried to break my old record ;-) In fact there is a huge difference when comparing a non-oc 10900k with an all core 5.3GHz OC'd 10900k.

Super happy with the result - waiting for even cooler weather now (still 8c outside). Working on a Port Royal run at 2250Mhz start to finish (already had one that bricked 2 seconds before finish) and than I'll try to convince my card to run at 2265Mhz as well but dunno if it will^^


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

elbramso said:


> Well guys I'm back in the top50 in Port Royal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I scored 16 231 in Port Royal
> 
> 
> Intel Core i9-10900K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.3dmark.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out, that I simply forgot to OC my CPU as well the last time I tried to break my old record ;-) In fact there is a huge difference when comparing a non-oc 10900k with an all core 5.3GHz OC'd 10900k.
> 
> Super happy with the result - waiting for even cooler weather now (still 8c outside). Working on a Port Royal run at 2250Mhz start to finish (already had one that bricked 2 seconds before finish) and than I'll try to convince my card to run at 2265Mhz as well but dunno if it will^^


So much better then my Strix 3090 OC were I got 15516 with a 5900x….and I was trying to give @HyperMatrix smoke 🤣

What was your Core clock and Mem clock?
Mine is plus/minus Core +230-240 and Mem +1500-1650 but depends which one I go higher other one has to go down slightly.


----------



## elbramso

My custom curve is somewhere between +225-255 on the core and +1360 on the memory. 
I guess my card has the benefit of direct voltage control - without it I'd be at 15,7k in Port Royal as well.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Optimus next project 90 rotaries please! These gosh awful Bitspower/Barrow ones gotta go


I second that.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> My bits power rotaries work fine.. not sure what makes them awful?


They leak like what happened to chibi. They aren’t designed for the way i use them often, which is. 90 (north south) + 90 (east-west) + any tubing runs that has another set of multiple fittings on the other side. 

Mind you most people bend tubing, etc that there are less points of failure where as i just run long run of fitting adapter/extenders to get straight runs. Tried those dual 90 g1/4 adapters but they have sagging issues and don’t look nice. 

Secondly i have too many issues with bp fittings getting stuck (and in some cases permanently). After seeing bp fittings shed paint in the interior after x years, i prefer the inside remain unpainted.


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> Never had a Bitspower rotary fail on me and I've used a lot of them.
> View attachment 2537532
> 
> View attachment 2537533


Nice collection and color. The blue ones chip so easily paint wise (exterior). I probably have invested the most into BP extenders (8mm/10mm/15mm/25mm/30mm/40mm/50mm) myself. I always use lot of extenders. Had offset fittings too but gave them away.


----------



## Section31

dng25 said:


> I don't even want to know how much those would cost from optimus lol..


Bp ones are already too expensive imo. I would go phantek for rotary 90 atm.


----------



## elbramso

btw. I just saw that the instructions still have a flaw @Optimus WC 
You point out to the wrong screws in the middle image here:


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> So much better then my Strix 3090 OC were I got 15516 with a 5900x….and I was trying to give @HyperMatrix smoke 🤣
> 
> What was your Core clock and Mem clock?
> Mine is plus/minus Core +230-240 and Mem +1500-1650 but depends which one I go higher other one has to go down slightly.


The worst thing about GPU benchmark scoring is all the little things like your system memory timings. OS. Background applications. Disabling services/etc. like a full set of prep to get the extra few % points because at around 16k score 3% difference is a whopping 500 points. I did a port royal run last week at 2235MHz GPU and +1350MHz on the memory (about max I can do before error correction causes a performance loss) and didn’t even get close to 16,000. Would probably make more sense to create a clean OS on a stick and just boot into that for benching so you don’t have to mess with your main system.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> The worst thing about GPU benchmark scoring is all the little things like your system memory timings. OS. Background applications. Disabling services/etc. like a full set of prep to get the extra few % points because at around 16k score 3% difference is a whopping 500 points. I did a port royal run last week at 2235MHz GPU and +1350MHz on the memory (about max I can do before error correction causes a performance loss) and didn’t even get close to 16,000. Would probably make more sense to create a clean OS on a stick and just boot into that for benching so you don’t have to mess with your main system.


Benchmarking is fun. Nice to be on the top lol. I just use it to test the cooling performance of my system.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> The worst thing about GPU benchmark scoring is all the little things like your system memory timings. OS. Background applications. Disabling services/etc. like a full set of prep to get the extra few % points because at around 16k score 3% difference is a whopping 500 points. I did a port royal run last week at 2235MHz GPU and +1350MHz on the memory (about max I can do before error correction causes a performance loss) and didn’t even get close to 16,000. Would probably make more sense to create a clean OS on a stick and just boot into that for benching so you don’t have to mess with your main system.


Memory timings and OS don’t matter for Port Royal. Then again I already said this and you blocked me for it. Ah well.


----------



## elbramso

But you as well wrote this:
"I am only trying to help you understand how the Port Royal benchmark works. It doesn't scale with CPU or RAM clocks." 

Which is definitely not correct. No offense


----------



## geriatricpollywog

elbramso said:


> But you as well wrote this:
> "I am only trying to help you understand how the Port Royal benchmark works. It doesn't scale with CPU or RAM clocks."
> 
> Which is definitely not correct. No offense


Port Royal likes stable memory. Even if you get that stability from running in JDEC / SAFE MODE. If you choose not to believe me, smash that block button.









I scored 16 157 in Port Royal


Intel Core i9-11900K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}




www.3dmark.com


----------



## elbramso

I was referring to the CPU part of your statement.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

elbramso said:


> I was referring to the CPU part of your statement.


CPU was running at 4.8 in safe mode. Same 11900K CPU running at 5.5 all core fixed. I could also show you results with my 12900K but that CPU never helped my PR score.









I scored 16 052 in Port Royal


Intel Core i9-11900K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}




www.3dmark.com


----------



## elbramso

OK this last run you posted is kinda weird. I'd expect to score way higher. Seems like something wasn't stable, but I dunno


----------



## geriatricpollywog

elbramso said:


> OK this last run you posted is kinda weird. I'd expect to score way higher. Seems like something wasn't stable, but I dunno


It might have been the memory. Running in safe boot always helped my scores on the 11900K.


----------



## elbramso

I might try to bench on safe boot as well. Hope it helps  
Aiming for 16400 which is pretty much all I can get with my cooling I guess.


----------



## latpboe_4046

Hello Everyone,

Writing here to share my problem with my KPE after Optimus WB installation to seek for suggestions/ideas before I throw myself from a cliff ...
I'm sure this has nothing to do with Optimus, there must be something I'm missing.

After installation I booted the computer and everything seemed fined, the windows boot logo appeared but after that the screen went black.
I rebooted and the KPE screen showd TOO LOW +5V and TOO LOW PEXVDD, refusing to show anything in screen. MB Q-Codes showed that other than the GPU everything was booting fine.
Considering the messages I tried to reseat the GPU to check if it was a bad contact with the PCI-E slot. Nothing, the PEX INPUT TOO LOW was all I got.
I've disassembled the KPE, checked for water or damage, I found nothing ... reassembled and PEX INPUT TOO LOW again ...
I checked the KPE in another PCI-E slot with the same result, then took it to another computer and once again all I get is the PEX INPUT TOO LOW with no further message.

I've opened a ticket with EVGA to see if they can help/repair the KPE, still waiting for their answer. In the meantime ... any suggestions/ideas from anyone ...


----------



## criskoe

latpboe_4046 said:


> Hello Everyone,
> 
> Writing here to share my problem with my KPE after Optimus WB installation to seek for suggestions/ideas before I throw myself from a cliff ...
> I'm sure this has nothing to do with Optimus, there must be something I'm missing.
> 
> After installation I booted the computer and everything seemed fined, the windows boot logo appeared but after that the screen went black.
> I rebooted and the KPE screen showd TOO LOW +5V and TOO LOW PEXVDD, refusing to show anything in screen. MB Q-Codes showed that other than the GPU everything was booting fine.
> Considering the messages I tried to reseat the GPU to check if it was a bad contact with the PCI-E slot. Nothing, the PEX INPUT TOO LOW was all I got.
> I've disassembled the KPE, checked for water or damage, I found nothing ... reassembled and PEX INPUT TOO LOW again ...
> I checked the KPE in another PCI-E slot with the same result, then took it to another computer and once again all I get is the PEX INPUT TOO LOW with no further message.
> 
> I've opened a ticket with EVGA to see if they can help/repair the KPE, still waiting for their answer. In the meantime ... any suggestions/ideas from anyone ...


At this point you should try to just put the stock original cooler back on and see what happens. You will have to either way sending it back to EVGA... As for the black screen. Optimus said a few pages back that over bending of the PCB can cause backscreens. Hows your PCB? Is it warped or bent?


----------



## latpboe_4046

criskoe said:


> At this point you should try to just put the stock original cooler back on and see what happens. You will have to either way sending it back to EVGA... As for the black screen. Optimus said a few pages back that over bending of the PCB can cause backscreens. Hows your PCB? Is it warped or bent?


No bending at all. I had read all the "bendinggate" issues here and on twitter, so I was fully aware and took extra care following the updated instructions.
I used yellow fluid, so it would have been easy to spot any liquid leaked but the board was clear on both sides, I neither can spot any physical damage (burn components or similar).

Yes, I now have the card ready to reassemble to its original state, just waiting to EVGA to answer so I can check with them some details like if I must put back all the putty and pads, because some of them are not in a good state (to say the least ...).

Thanks for your suggestions and ideas.


----------



## criskoe

latpboe_4046 said:


> No bending at all. I had read all the "bendinggate" issues here and on twitter, so I was fully aware and took extra care following the updated instructions.
> I used yellow fluid, so it would have been easy to spot any liquid leaked but the board was clear on both sides, I neither can spot any physical damage (burn components or similar).
> 
> Yes, I now have the card ready to reassemble to its original state, just waiting to EVGA to answer so I can check with them some details like if I must put back all the putty and pads, because some of them are not in a good state (to say the least ...).
> 
> Thanks for your suggestions and ideas.


Found this thread. https://forums.evga.com/3090-KINGPIN-PEXVDD-Input-and-5V-Too-Low-m3240438.aspx

Is this the same issue? If so it sounds like the cause is the card isnt seated deep enough into the pci slot.. Or the slot/motherboard is bending too much. Are you vertical mount? Riser Cable? If doing normal horizontal, Maybe try it with the case on its side to relieve the weight and pressure on the PCI slot. Both those users were able to fix the problem by relieving pressure on the pci slot and making sure its seated perfectly strait or using a vertical mount and riser cable.

Either way I would try to put it back to stock as best as possible and test it first before you send it in either way. It would be a huge waste of your time and money sending it in and they find it working fine.

With that said. I dont think they care if all the pads and putty are not perfect. They will just want the cooler back on and no physical damage. But better to hear from them... Good luck dude.


----------



## latpboe_4046

criskoe said:


> Found this thread. https://forums.evga.com/3090-KINGPIN-PEXVDD-Input-and-5V-Too-Low-m3240438.aspx
> 
> Is this the same issue? If so it sounds like the cause is the card isnt seated deep enough into the pci slot.. Or the slot/motherboard is bending too much. Are you vertical mount? Riser Cable? If doing normal horizontal, Maybe try it with the case on its side to relieve the weight and pressure on the PCI slot. Both those users were able to fix the problem by relieving pressure on the pci slot and making sure its seated perfectly strait.
> 
> Either way I would try to put it back to stock as best as possible and test it first before you send it in either way. It would be a huge waste of your time and money sending it in and they find it working fine.
> 
> With that said. I dont think they care if all the pads and putty are not perfect. They will just want the cooler back on and no physical damage. But better to hear from them... Good luck dude.



Yeah, I read that thread and tried to reseat the KPE, also tried another pci-e slot and a vertical mount (just the pci-e extension riser cable) without success. Just to check that it was not a MB issue (CPU too tighten, ot MB bent) I installed it in another computer and still no success ...


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

latpboe_4046 said:


> Yeah, I read that thread and tried to reseat the KPE, also tried another pci-e slot and a vertical mount (just the pci-e extension riser cable) without success. Just to check that it was not a MB issue (CPU too tighten, ot MB bent) I installed it in another computer and still no success ...


Ola…Are your cables 8-pin from the PSU original or did you buy some extensions?

After I installed the Strix 3090 OPTIMUS block I’ve gotten a bunch of random weird black screens,not full reboots but just black screen fir what 20ish sec,login logo and then it started as normal.
I never found the issue but @dwolvin told me to do after it happens “event viewer” something (not 100% correct but you get it) and it didn’t show anything special except low power?
So I’ve read if you enable C-State and 2 other things in the BIOS it’ll lower your CPU’s boost by 100mhz but the random aka reboots will disappear,now after 6 days haven’t had one and my 5900x still all core boost minimum 5ghz.

It could be bad cable/cables,low power draw or something like that.


----------



## latpboe_4046

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Ola…Are your cables 8-pin from the PSU original or did you buy some extensions?
> 
> After I installed the Strix 3090 OPTIMUS block I’ve gotten a bunch of random weird black screens,not full reboots but just black screen fir what 20ish sec,login logo and then it started as normal.
> I never found the issue but @dwolvin told me to do after it happens “event viewer” something (not 100% correct but you get it) and it didn’t show anything special except low power?
> So I’ve read if you enable C-State and 2 other things in the BIOS it’ll lower your CPU’s boost by 100mhz but the random aka reboots will disappear,now after 6 days haven’t had one and my 5900x still all core boost minimum 5ghz.
> 
> It could be bad cable/cables,low power draw or something like that.


Thanks for the ideas.

Unfortunately for me, the first computer has extensions but when I tested the KPE in the second computer I used another set of cables with direct connection without any luck.
I cannot get to bios, the card send nothing on either the DP or HDMI ports.

I use a Corsair HX1200i and a HX1200 in the computers, so I doubt there's any power problems. The second computer is running an RX6900XT fien so I'm sure thar PSU works just fine, and the first computer PSU was perfectly running before the waterblock installation. 

The weird thing is that when I did my first boot after installing the waterblock it worked, I got the windows logo and everything was going fine, but when it tried to switch to the windows login (I guess there's a resolution change at that point) it got to the current state.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

latpboe_4046 said:


> Thanks for the ideas.
> 
> Unfortunately for me, the first computer has extensions but when I tested the KPE in the second computer I used another set of cables with direct connection without any luck.
> I cannot get to bios, the card send nothing on either the DP or HDMI ports.
> 
> I use a Corsair HX1200i and a HX1200 in the computers, so I doubt there's any power problems. The second computer is running an RX6900XT fien so I'm sure thar PSU works just fine, and the first computer PSU was perfectly running before the waterblock installation.
> 
> The weird thing is that when I did my first boot after installing the waterblock it worked, I got the windows logo and everything was going fine, but when it tried to switch to the windows login (I guess there's a resolution change at that point) it got to the current state.


Your issue seems more related to either cable/connection issue or something is wrong with the GPU BIOS.

I have a Be Quiet Pro 12 1500W and had the power issue,it’s not a PSU issue it’s in the BIOS settings. It didn’t happen before I installed the OPTIMUS Block. I’m not sure why,maybe different connection then stock,idk honestly.
Even I had to reflash on my Strix 3090 the KPE 1000W bios with ReBar after putting on the block.

I’ve read that people had issues with dpi cable connections,I have a LG C1 and use hdmi cables and didn’t have any issues but if it started once it shouldn’t be a faulty installation. It’s something probably minor but good luck finding what it is.
I was on the verge throwing away my X570 Xtreme because one day I couldn’t enter bios,nothing dead mobo. I to this day have no idea how I was able to flash some old ass bios to just enter so I can reflash a new updated bios. It’s the worst when something like this happens but nibody knows what it is exactly


----------



## latpboe_4046

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Your issue seems more related to either cable/connection issue or something is wrong with the GPU BIOS.
> 
> I have a Be Quiet Pro 12 1500W and had the power issue,it’s not a PSU issue it’s in the BIOS settings. It didn’t happen before I installed the OPTIMUS Block. I’m not sure why,maybe different connection then stock,idk honestly.
> Even I had to reflash on my Strix 3090 the KPE 1000W bios with ReBar after putting on the block.
> 
> I’ve read that people had issues with dpi cable connections,I have a LG C1 and use hdmi cables and didn’t have any issues but if it started once it shouldn’t be a faulty installation. It’s something probably minor but good luck finding what it is.
> I was on the verge throwing away my X570 Xtreme because one day I couldn’t enter bios,nothing dead mobo. I to this day have no idea how I was able to flash some old ass bios to just enter so I can reflash a new updated bios. It’s the worst when something like this happens but nibody knows what it is exactly


Thans for your support.

I've tried with the 3 different bios on the KPE (normal/OC/LN2) and they all give out the same result and they do regardless of what output cable is connected (tried with hdmi and dp).


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> I second that.


I third that but also raise quick disconnect fittings.


----------



## chibi

Biggu said:


> I third that but also raise quick disconnect fittings.


Wow wow wow tiger, slow down there. We don't want to get ahead of ourselves here, lol. 😄


----------



## KedarWolf

Is there any way to get the AMD Foundation block in black cerakote @Optimus WC 

My old block, friggin crappy Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut damaged the nickel plate. That stuff is really overrated, do NOT recommend. Much better pastes out there. 

And I don't want to bother to lap the block.


----------



## Biggu

chibi said:


> Wow wow wow tiger, slow down there. We don't want to get ahead of ourselves here, lol. 😄


sorry, I saw this on Titan rig and got excited with the color 









Bitspower Quick Disconnect Male to G1/4" Female Fitting


Titan Rig is now selling the Bitspower Quick-Disconnect fitting for easy and convenient component detachment. It comes with hidden O-ring design. So, visit here and place your order!




www.titanrig.com


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> I third that but also raise quick disconnect fittings.


I want to get more affordable CPC Colder LQ6 myself.


----------



## elbramso

Here we gooo








I scored 16 307 in Port Royal


Intel Core i9-10900K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}




www.3dmark.com




2250mhz from start to finish 🥳🥳
Next step 2265mhz


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

When will we get new shipments? @Optimus WC 
Please tell us something and stop us waiting more. Tell us that you are at 5xxx number and ship 1x everyday…. I want some info please!


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

elbramso said:


> Here we gooo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I scored 16 307 in Port Royal
> 
> 
> Intel Core i9-10900K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.3dmark.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2250mhz from start to finish 🥳🥳
> Next step 2265mhz


I’m trying to understand one thing,how can your score be 800 more then mine if my average clock was 2,193mhz (bit less then yours) and mem was higher then yours?

My result : I scored 15 503 in Port Royal (Best I’ve git was 15,521 but didn’t upload idk)


Is it the CPU AMD weaker for test results then a INTEL,or what else can it be?
Just trying to see what are the main things to look for so I can try to get into the top 5,currently with this score I’m 12th.

Is disabling g-sync important (mine is always off don’t see anything special from it),ReBar is off,RAM timings…tho mine are super tight like 14-14-8-14-21 and trfc is 235 on 1T (here and there I get a error but no crashes maybe that’s also a factor?)
Even my 5900x clock frequency is all cores boosting over 5GHz,so I can’t squeeze there anything out anymore.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I’m trying to understand one thing,how can your score be 800 more then mine if my average clock was 2,193mhz (bit less then yours) and mem was higher then yours?
> 
> My result : I scored 15 503 in Port Royal (Best I’ve git was 15,521 but didn’t upload idk)
> 
> 
> Is it the CPU AMD weaker for test results then a INTEL,or what else can it be?
> Just trying to see what are the main things to look for so I can try to get into the top 5,currently with this score I’m 12th.
> 
> Is disabling g-sync important (mine is always off don’t see anything special from it),ReBar is off,RAM timings…tho mine are super tight like 14-14-8-14-21 and trfc is 235 on 1T (here and there I get a error but no crashes maybe that’s also a factor?)
> Even my 5900x clock frequency is all cores boosting over 5GHz,so I can’t squeeze there anything out anymore.


You need voltage control 

And RE-Bar ON









I scored 16 334 in Port Royal


Intel Core i7-12700K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}




www.3dmark.com


----------



## Darkstar757

Optimus I have waited and its not looking like Im going to get this before Christmas. That was my drop dead date, I am going to cancel my order.


----------



## elbramso

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I’m trying to understand one thing,how can your score be 800 more then mine if my average clock was 2,193mhz (bit less then yours) and mem was higher then yours?
> 
> My result : I scored 15 503 in Port Royal (Best I’ve git was 15,521 but didn’t upload idk)
> 
> 
> Is it the CPU AMD weaker for test results then a INTEL,or what else can it be?
> Just trying to see what are the main things to look for so I can try to get into the top 5,currently with this score I’m 12th.
> 
> Is disabling g-sync important (mine is always off don’t see anything special from it),ReBar is off,RAM timings…tho mine are super tight like 14-14-8-14-21 and trfc is 235 on 1T (here and there I get a error but no crashes maybe that’s also a factor?)
> Even my 5900x clock frequency is all cores boosting over 5GHz,so I can’t squeeze there anything out anymore.


The difference between 2193mhz and 2250mhz average clock is in fact huge. You see I gained ~70pts on a run because I raised the average clock from 2235mhz to 2250mhz. 
You absolutely need ReBar + proper settings in your profile inspector. 
Next time I'm at my desk I will try to replicate your settings. No NoRebar, same clock and mem OC and post the result. 
Biggest disadvantage of the strix card (compared to the KPE) imo is the fact that you need external tools for voltage control. This really is a game changer. 
Your RAM really don't matter too much in Port Royal.


----------



## Biggu

Darkstar757 said:


> Optimus I have waited and its not looking like Im going to get this before Christmas. That was my drop dead date, I am going to cancel my order.


You still have almost a week before Christmas but you do you... I get the frustration for sure but they are at least in the wild now and people are getting them. Posting it in a public forum reminds me of the office where Michael Scott says " I declare bankruptcy". Doesn't help the case at all just makes people look at you. Just cancel the order and move on with your life. Others have come in here with the same statements and Optimus was just like OK we understand.


----------



## chibi

Darkstar757 said:


> Optimus I have waited and its not looking like Im going to get this before Christmas. That was my drop dead date, I am going to cancel my order.


This is like running a 100k marathon with the intention of getting first no matter what. Then find out you might be coming second at the last 100m and decide to quit. 

You might get it before christmas, or you may not, but you're still getting the best product available for your card even if it's +/- 2 weeks. You waited however long enough it is already, would suck to just settle for nothing imo.


----------



## Gotspeed_2000

Just got my Kingpin block in. Sorry for the bad photos, the lighting isn't the greatest but the blocks are silver. 









Front side Kingpin Silver/Nickel










Back Side Kingpin Silver/Nickel

My order was 5211.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

So Optimus uses black, not clear o-rings. Interesting.


----------



## dwolvin

It's a silicone piece, much easier to get in place than an o-ring. And they have black and white options I believe.


----------



## Gotspeed_2000

geriatricpollywog said:


> So Optimus uses black, not clear o-rings. Interesting.


They installed the black, but include the white too. It's in a bag that is in the box. I didn't take a picture of that one.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Guys I need help,so I have the KPE 1000W with ReBar flashed on my Strix 3090,4G-encoding and ReBar both enabled in BIOS plus CSM disabled.

When I enter Win11 I can’t get ReBar to turn on,GPU-Z shows both ReBar in BIOS and Win11 is disabled,checking NVidia Control Panel also shows no ReBar.

Ive completely reflashed the KPE 1000W BIOS,reflashed the Nvidia drivers and dusabled and reenabled everything in BIOS still nothing. Slowly it’s starting to piss me off,I had it running from day one,didn’t check afterwards and now I’m seeing it’s disabled and I can’t get the **** to run again?
Is it Win11 issue or am I missing something?


----------



## Section31

delete


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Guys I need help,so I have the KPE 1000W with ReBar flashed on my Strix 3090,4G-encoding and ReBar both enabled in BIOS plus CSM disabled.
> 
> When I enter Win11 I can’t get ReBar to turn on,GPU-Z shows both ReBar in BIOS and Win11 is disabled,checking NVidia Control Panel also shows no ReBar.
> 
> Ive completely reflashed the KPE 1000W BIOS,reflashed the Nvidia drivers and dusabled and reenabled everything in BIOS still nothing. Slowly it’s starting to piss me off,I had it running from day one,didn’t check afterwards and now I’m seeing it’s disabled and I can’t get the **** to run again?
> Is it Win11 issue or am I missing something?


Meanwhile i managed to score gskill ddr5. May have to bundle the existing ddr5 ram (micron no heatsink) with the excess mobo to sell pff.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> At this point you should try to just put the stock original cooler back on and see what happens. You will have to either way sending it back to EVGA... As for the black screen. Optimus said a few pages back that over bending of the PCB can cause backscreens. Hows your PCB? Is it warped or bent?


If you were looking for Gskill DDr5, Newegg Canada has it in combo deals. Shawnb99 and me jumped onto them. He on the Z690 Apex and I did the Z690 MATX G Board.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> If you were looking for Gskill DDr5, Newegg Canada has it in combo deals. Shawnb99 and me jumped onto them. He on the Z690 Apex and I did the Z690 MATX G Board.


CanadaComputers has had the T-Force 6200CL38 and 6400CL40 available in bundles for a few weeks now as well.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> CanadaComputers has had the T-Force 6200CL38 and 6400CL40 available in bundles for a few weeks now as well.
> 
> View attachment 2538058


That one was fake lol. I tried clicking that and if you tried to check out, it would say no stock of 1 item (must be ram).


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> That one was fake lol. I tried clicking that and if you tried to check out, it would say no stock of 1 item (must be ram).


Ah. You're right. What a weird thing to do...


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Ah. You're right. What a weird thing to do...


If you want get from newegg. lot of options on mobo.


----------



## Gotspeed_2000

I've been also looking for DDR5 ram. I may have to sit on my plans for a change to the Z690 platform for a bit. I did an impulse buy of the 12900k and then followed up that with a not so smart move of buying the Z690 Hero board. Was going to do install this stuff in my pc, but the whole DDR5 issue was something I didn't plan out well. Now I'm going to sit on my Hero mobo unless someone I know wants to buy it, put the 12900K on a Strix A board with DDR4 ram in my son's pc instead. I think I'm going to wait till sometime next year before thinking about a serious change to the Z690 platform and when DDR5 has a bit more time to mature and hopefully become more available. 

I'm still entering the new egg shuffle, won it the other day but would have had to package the DDR5 Ram with a mobo I'd almost never use (MSI Carbon). Passed on that. I put in today for the DDR5 with the 12700K, but I don't think I won that one. If I did, then I would put the 12700K in his pc and keep the 12900K for mines and consider the do the switch.


----------



## Section31

Gotspeed_2000 said:


> I've been also looking for DDR5 ram. I may have to sit on my plans for a change to the Z690 platform for a bit. I did an impulse buy of the 12900k and then followed up that with a not so smart move of buying the Z690 Hero board. Was going to do install this stuff in my pc, but the whole DDR5 issue was something I didn't plan out well. Now I'm going to sit on my Hero mobo unless someone I know wants to buy it, put the 12900K on a Strix A board with DDR4 ram in my son's pc instead. I think I'm going to wait till sometime next year before thinking about a serious change to the Z690 platform and when DDR5 has a bit more time to mature and hopefully become more available.
> 
> I'm still entering the new egg shuffle, won it the other day but would have had to package the DDR5 Ram with a mobo I'd almost never use (MSI Carbon). Passed on that. I put in today for the DDR5 with the 12700K, but I don't think I won that one. If I did, then I would put the 12700K in his pc and keep the 12900K for mines and consider the do the switch.


The listing on Canadian Newegg are still up last checked. Only the Apex listing are sold out. You got option of DDR5-6000 Non-RGB and DDR5-5600 RGB. One of us canadians can possibly get for you and send it down. Just resell your Hero Board.

Also, some of us who got the RAM is likely going to sell our kits. I know banned Shawnb99 will sell his DDR5-5200 Adata Kit (he got the DDR5-6000 Gskill Kit) and I got to sell off my 16GB Micron Kit (2x 8GB)- I went DDR5-5600 RGB Kit. Not sure the market but i am planning to bundle it with the extra motherboard to ensure it sells.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> If you were looking for Gskill DDr5, Newegg Canada has it in combo deals. Shawnb99 and me jumped onto them. He on the Z690 Apex and I did the Z690 MATX G Board.


Thanks For the heads up... Decided to actually sit this one out...


----------



## LiquidHaus

Pretty unrelated note, but I finally got the chance to use that graphene based nanofluid from Go Chiller.










Currently got this 12700KF at 5.24ghz, highest temp spike has been 92c. Though I will be running the same stress test each day since I want to see if the graphene 'coating' the components is actually a thing that's happening and if it will improve temps. Ran some Phanteks components for this build as they sponsored it, so I'm sure Optimus components would already be seeing better temps. I realize the block I'm using isn't the best for performance, but it looks good at least!


----------



## chibi

How you liking the 011 Evo? Does the front panel have an air mesh filter like the 011 Air Mini?


----------



## LiquidHaus

chibi said:


> How you liking the 011 Evo? Does the front panel have an air mesh filter like the 011 Air Mini?


I really am enjoying an inverted 011, that's for sure. It's what I was looking forward to the most, though the upright GPU mount that I used as well is pretty slick. I used to main an 011D XL, but even with the smaller size, I'd say the EVO stacks up well with how it can configure.

As for the mesh on the front, yes it can:


https://lian-li.com/product/o11de-4/



I'm not sure if they'll spec cases with the mesh front preinstalled, but with a GPU out of the center of the case, the bottom fans can really move air up through the whole thing better than utilizing the traditional GPU location.


----------



## criskoe

chibi said:


> How you liking the 011 Evo? Does the front panel have an air mesh filter like the 011 Air Mini?


It comes with a glass front but you can buy a mesh front as a add on.

GGF Events YouTube has a very good video about it and goes over all the measurements and features. Basically everything a person would want to know about it.

The thing can fit three XE thick bois in it.


----------



## yaohanzex

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, email us with your actual name and order number and we'll get the parts sent out


I understand the one KPE block per business day shipping speed because of the holiday season. Hope the speed will be faster in 2022, otherwise it would take another two months to fulfill all preorders. I suggest you announce the total number of preorder and how many of them has been fulfilled on twitter so that your loyal customers are not kept in the dark. When we lose faith in you, it will be a huge hit to your reputation.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Has Optimus shown any pictures of the factory in Chicago where these are made? EK and Watercool have some *honest* in-depth factory tours on their YouTube channels.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

yaohanzex said:


> I understand the one KPE block per business day shipping speed because of the holiday season. Hope the speed will be faster in 2022, otherwise it would take another two months to fulfill all preorders. I suggest you announce the total number of preorder and how many of them has been fulfilled on twitter so that your loyal customers are not kept in the dark. When we lose faith in you, it will be a huge hit to your reputation.


They wont answer anything  
They issued me a discount code before when I got a ftw3 block. Because they shipped it late. Guess what happened? Never worked never got any discount!
Already asked 3 times about what happened to my order 5224 and no answer.

they are not keeping their promises and wont keep their customers….

Feel free to try coupon. I dont care anything about this company any more.


----------



## Section31

Huseyinbaykal said:


> View attachment 2538160
> 
> 
> They wont answer anything
> They issued me a discount code before when I got a ftw3 block. Because they shipped it late. Guess what happened? Never worked never got any discount!
> Already asked 3 times about what happened to my order 5224 and no answer.
> 
> they are not keeping their promises and wont keep their customers….
> 
> Feel free to try coupon. I dont care anything about this company any more.


The coupon program thing expired actually i think.


----------



## Section31

geriatricpollywog said:


> Has Optimus shown any pictures of the factory in Chicago where these are made? EK and Watercool have some *honest* in-depth factory tours on their YouTube channels.


Nobody knows but it’s rumored to be another caselabs like company. Side company working inside much larger parent company.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> I really am enjoying an inverted 011, that's for sure. It's what I was looking forward to the most, though the upright GPU mount that I used as well is pretty slick. I used to main an 011D XL, but even with the smaller size, I'd say the EVO stacks up well with how it can configure.
> 
> As for the mesh on the front, yes it can:
> 
> 
> https://lian-li.com/product/o11de-4/
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if they'll spec cases with the mesh front preinstalled, but with a GPU out of the center of the case, the bottom fans can really move air up through the whole thing better than utilizing the traditional GPU location.


Interesting build. Looks like case worth trying out (had the 011xl but gave it up) as i may just use the extra z690 mobo as office pc. However will try to sell first before considering that


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Section31 said:


> The coupon program thing expired actually i think.



I think this means I can use my coupon for my next order. My next order was kp block. So they lied  asked them for my order. Got my coupon on 11April and couldnt use it on 29 july. 

*We're giving everyone 15% off discount for their next order.*


----------



## Darkstar757

Biggu said:


> You still have almost a week before Christmas but you do you... I get the frustration for sure but they are at least in the wild now and people are getting them. Posting it in a public forum reminds me of the office where Michael Scott says " I declare bankruptcy". Doesn't help the case at all just makes people look at you. Just cancel the order and move on with your life. Others have come in here with the same statements and Optimus was just like OK we understand.


It needs to be known this company is horrible. Lies about time lines, crap communication and to top it off I then have to watch threads about folks equipment getting wrecked because of poor instructions. At 600 dollars you don’t get to tell me how I should feel about waiting over four months. This is a poorly run operation and It’s a fact. Anyone who is looking to do business needs to know how they are handling things.


----------



## Biggu

Darkstar757 said:


> It needs to be known this company is horrible. Lies about time lines, crap communication and to top it off I then have to watch threads about folks equipment getting wrecked because of poor instructions. At 600 dollars you don’t get to tell me how I should feel about waiting over four months. This is a poorly run operation and It’s a fact. Anyone who is looking to do business needs to know how they are handling things.


I mean its not like its been hidden that their communication is dismal and that their timelines are a joke. I feel like anywhere you look its pretty public everyone has the same statements on the communication and timelines so unless you were under a rock you had to know that coming into the order. I mean hell look at the last 150-200 pages of this thread any I will say majority of it are people complaining about either of those subjects. I'm not trying to tell you how to feel, I understand your statements completely and I was there waiting for the Strix block to ship. Hell with my CPU blocks I bought blemished because I knew at least they would be in stock.


----------



## Section31

Darkstar757 said:


> It needs to be known this company is horrible. Lies about time lines, crap communication and to top it off I then have to watch threads about folks equipment getting wrecked because of poor instructions. At 600 dollars you don’t get to tell me how I should feel about waiting over four months. This is a poorly run operation and It’s a fact. Anyone who is looking to do business needs to know how they are handling things.


It is an known issue. All of us here who buy there stuff are fully aware of the risk.

Also word of advice, avoid gmk and keyrealtive for keycaps. They look nice and resell for costs but all there shipping dates are complete lies.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> I mean its not like its been hidden that their communication is dismal and that their timelines are a joke. I feel like anywhere you look its pretty public everyone has the same statements on the communication and timelines so unless you were under a rock you had to know that coming into the order. I mean hell look at the last 150-200 pages of this thread any I will say majority of it are people complaining about either of those subjects. I'm not trying to tell you how to feel, I understand your statements completely and I was there waiting for the Strix block to ship. Hell with my CPU blocks I bought blemished because I knew at least they would be in stock.


Usual rant that happens here. Totally understandable.

The op should be glad he can cancel. I wish i could cancel some of the random keyboard stuff i joined as groupbuy (past the initial sale closing date and been past one year) but most won’t cancel or you incur 3-5% fee so might as well gamble on the resell market once you get the item


----------



## dwolvin

I hear that, the horror stories about KB groupbuys made me decide early on that I'm only buying KBs that ship right now.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

@Section31 knows my story with ZFrontier and how they shipped me a wrong item that also came late 3 weeks. Msg’d them they never replied,wanted to buy 2 sets of keycaps but I’ll hard pass! 
Companies out here losing customers over f….ing $40.

I won’t say anything about OPTIMUS I said what I had to say…they’re a complete different level of ******ed


----------



## tbrown7552

LiquidHaus said:


> Pretty unrelated note, but I finally got the chance to use that graphene based nanofluid from Go Chiller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently got this 12700KF at 5.24ghz, highest temp spike has been 92c. Though I will be running the same stress test each day since I want to see if the graphene 'coating' the components is actually a thing that's happening and if it will improve temps. Ran some Phanteks components for this build as they sponsored it, so I'm sure Optimus components would already be seeing better temps. I realize the block I'm using isn't the best for performance, but it looks good at least!


did you order a KP Block? Im scared the optimus blocked KP wont fit from pics. Since youve had the case what are your thoughts?


----------



## D-EJ915

Section31 said:


> Usual rant that happens here. Totally understandable.
> 
> The op should be glad he can cancel. I wish i could cancel some of the random keyboard stuff i joined as groupbuy (past the initial sale closing date and been past one year) but most won’t cancel or you incur 3-5% fee so might as well gamble on the resell market once you get the item


keyboard buys are another whole type of scummy operations lol, one I'm in now the runner disappeared for like 8 months then said "hey I haven't done anything yet" and now 2 years later is almost ready to start shipping stuff.


----------



## Section31

D-EJ915 said:


> keyboard buys are another whole type of scummy operations lol, one I'm in now the runner disappeared for like 8 months then said "hey I haven't done anything yet" and now 2 years later is almost ready to start shipping stuff.


I heard some groupbuy like owlabs, wuque now go through route where they fork out bulk of costs and only announce products when they are almost ready to ship. So max 10 weeks wait time. Shipping is fast but dhl/fedex processing fee argh.

Explains how they send out mr.suit, even upcoming alice arisu and even the mammoth 75 so fast. Got my mr.suit in 4-6weeks.


----------



## LiquidHaus

tbrown7552 said:


> did you order a KP Block? Im scared the optimus blocked KP wont fit from pics. Since youve had the case what are your thoughts?


Yes I did, it should get here on the 21st assuming the shipment doesn't get delayed. Not sure if I will be installing the block before christmas though, tough timing. But I'm assuming since you quoted the EVO case build, that you're also referring to the EVO case and the KP. I can eyeball it, and see if it's clear to take a photo so that you can see the KP standing along the EVO case so you can see yourself. But the build that has the KP isn't in an 011 anymore.


----------



## chibi

Will larger cards like the Strix fit the new Evo in horizontal config? That was an issue with the Dynamic that required vertical mounting.


----------



## tbrown7552

LiquidHaus said:


> Yes I did, it should get here on the 21st assuming the shipment doesn't get delayed. Not sure if I will be installing the block before christmas though, tough timing. But I'm assuming since you quoted the EVO case build, that you're also referring to the EVO case and the KP. I can eyeball it, and see if it's clear to take a photo so that you can see the KP standing along the EVO case so you can see yourself. But the build that has the KP isn't in an 011 anymore.


Yes and that would be perfect.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Yes I did, it should get here on the 21st assuming the shipment doesn't get delayed. Not sure if I will be installing the block before christmas though, tough timing. But I'm assuming since you quoted the EVO case build, that you're also referring to the EVO case and the KP. I can eyeball it, and see if it's clear to take a photo so that you can see the KP standing along the EVO case so you can see yourself. But the build that has the KP isn't in an 011 anymore.


Getting your hand on anymore cases?


----------



## Section31

Some bright news, another member to the optimus family (using spare parts from me). Nicely done first build



http://imgur.com/a/ykeiWGl


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Thanks optimus. 👏👏👏


----------



## LiquidHaus

Section31 said:


> Getting your hand on anymore cases?


Next month, yes there will be some multiple new cases coming in from several companies, but I can't say what yet.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Huseyinbaykal said:


> View attachment 2538528
> 
> Thanks optimus. 👏👏👏


What, they sent you a Asus TUF 3090Ti?


----------



## dng25

Section31 said:


> It is an known issue. All of us here who buy there stuff are fully aware of the risk.
> 
> Also word of advice, avoid gmk and keyrealtive for keycaps. They look nice and resell for costs but all there shipping dates are complete lies.


Keycaps are a whole nother level of waiting lol


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Next month, yes there will be some multiple new cases coming in from several companies, but I can't say what yet.


Looking forward to all your projects.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

LiquidHaus said:


> What, they sent you a Asus TUF 3090Ti?


yep )) nope just we saw the photos of the new cards. Thanks , cus our cards are not the top notch now before we got our blocks 😂


----------



## criskoe

Huseyinbaykal said:


> yep )) nope just we saw the photos of the new cards. Thanks , cus our cards are not the top notch now before we got our blocks 😂


Dude. If your really that upset. Cancel your dam order and get a full refund. Sell your KP card and buy a 3090Ti.. I mean dam... Your in the perfect position to do so with ZERO loss!!! With this market you could probably even gain. And the 3090ti's are more then likely built on the same board as the reg 3090 so you can buy a different block of choice. Sheesh...


----------



## elbramso

Huseyinbaykal said:


> yep )) nope just we saw the photos of the new cards. Thanks , cus our cards are not the top notch now before we got our blocks 😂


I doubt that a TUF 3090ti will perform better than a 3090 KPE with classified tool - at least when it comes to benchmarks. 
But well I might be wrong


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

criskoe said:


> Dude. If your really that upset. Cancel your dam order and get a full refund. Sell your KP card and buy a 3090Ti.. I mean dam... Your in the perfect position to do so with ZERO loss!!! With this market you could probably even gain. And the 3090ti's are more then likely built on the same board as the reg 3090 so you can buy a different block of choice. Sheesh...


 Wanna buy?


----------



## HyperMatrix

elbramso said:


> I doubt that a TUF 3090ti will perform better than a 3090 KPE with classified tool - at least when it comes to benchmarks.
> But well I might be wrong


Depends on bin quality. You have 2.4% more cores. 7.7% more memory bandwidth. And less power usage and heat from 12 memory modules as opposed to 24. At 2100MHz, the 3090Ti's extra 2.4% cores are similar to a 3090 at 2150MHz. And we also don't know how much higher the memory can be pushed. You can push 3090 from 19.5 to 22~. Can you also push the 3090Ti up by 2.5 to 24.5? At the extreme end with voltage adjustment yes you have more flexibility with the KPE. But I would bet a similarly binned 3090Ti will easily give the Kingpin a run for its money for day to day gaming.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

STAHP it guys! All this talk about the 3090ti makes me want to spend money. I just want to enjoy my Strix 3090 OC for atleast 8 months before doing stupid unnecessary **** for like 0.5% gain that will probably crash my games how much mod’s I install anyways.

Thank you for your co-operation gents


@Huseyinbaykal 

My best offer would be $3000 any currency except usd! I know you Turkish guys just don’t sell stuff like that,you LOVE haggling 😂🤣👍


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Next month, yes there will be some multiple new cases coming in from several companies, but I can't say what yet.


Any cool MATX SFF you know are coming out. Tempted to do an SFF MATX aircooled build atm.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Its a bit of a downer finding out that my 3090 Kingpin Hydrocopper will no longer be the most powerful watercooled 3090 after the 3090ti is released. Then again I'm glad I've been able to enjoy the card for a year and the waterblock since April. Guess I'll have to toss it now.


----------



## dwolvin

I'm looking forward to picking up a waterblocked 3080/3090 when the 3090ti comes out. You know people will upgrade in a hurry to chase the points...


----------



## LiquidHaus

KP 3090 will hold value better than a normal 3090Ti.

The idea of selling a KP 3090 for a normal 3090Ti gives me cancer, especially when the 40 series is around the corner.

Just sit there and enjoy your overpriced kit.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> KP 3090 will hold value better than a normal 3090Ti.
> 
> The idea of selling a KP 3090 for a normal 3090Ti gives me cancer, especially when the 40 series is around the corner.
> 
> Just sit there and enjoy your overpriced kit.


In agreement. 3090 KP will be enough. It probably will last till 5000 Series/Amd equivalent/Intel equivalent. The feeling i get is unless needed go for longer upgrade cycle for bulk of us enuthiast. If you can use the excess power by all means get it.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> KP 3090 will hold value better than a normal 3090Ti.
> 
> The idea of selling a KP 3090 for a normal 3090Ti gives me cancer, especially when the 40 series is around the corner.
> 
> Just sit there and enjoy your overpriced kit.


Even I am going the long haul route now. Won’t be jumping in big time till 2023/2024.


----------



## Paramedic10

Section31 said:


> In agreement. 3090 KP will be enough. It probably will last till 5000 Series/Amd equivalent/Intel equivalent. The feeling i get is unless needed go for longer upgrade cycle for bulk of us enuthiast. If you can use the excess power by all means get it.


Yep. Personally, with how things are going, and how well my system performs with a KP 3090 and 12900k, I won't be going for RTX 4xxx most likely. I try to leap frog generations for the most part anyways. And with how long we've all been waiting for the optimus block, I want to get my money's worth. There's the devils advocate in me that says sell the KP with the optimus block and ebay and hop to 4000, but then I'd be back in this position again waiting for a company to release another waterblock as I've dedicated my rig to custom open loop. And with how supply shortages and GPU shortages going into the foreseeable future, who even knows how long it would take to get all this stuff for next gen.


----------



## Section31

Paramedic10 said:


> Yep. Personally, with how things are going, and how well my system performs with a KP 3090 and 12900k, I won't be going for RTX 4xxx most likely. I try to leap frog generations for the most part anyways. And with how long we've all been waiting for the optimus block, I want to get my money's worth. There's the devils advocate in me that says sell the KP with the optimus block and ebay and hop to 4000, but then I'd be back in this position again waiting for a company to release another waterblock as I've dedicated my rig to custom open loop. And with how supply shortages and GPU shortages going into the foreseeable future, who even knows how long it would take to get all this stuff for next gen.


Intel did really good job on the cpu shortage side and i quite like the 12900k honestly (even if its downgrade multicore wise). I found it cools better than the AMD chip imo. I guess that's why it important Intel continue to maintain its fabs and invest a lot into them.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

What kind of temps are you guys getting with the OPTIMUS CPU blocks for the 12900k?
Assuming you’ve OC’d them over 5ghz


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> What kind of temps are you guys getting with the OPTIMUS CPU blocks for the 12900k?
> Assuming you’ve OC’d them over 5ghz


Under full cinebench loads I’m around the 67-75C mark depending on the core. That’s with 5.3GHz P-Cores, 4.3GHz E-cores, and 4.5GHz cache. Those are constant all core clocks. Optimus signature V2 block is superb.


----------



## criskoe

HyperMatrix said:


> Under full cinebench loads I’m around the 67-75C mark depending on the core. That’s with 5.3GHz P-Cores, 4.3GHz E-cores, and 4.5GHz cache. Those are constant all core clocks. Optimus signature V2 block is superb.


At what coolant temp for those values?


----------



## dng25

HyperMatrix said:


> Under full cinebench loads I’m around the 67-75C mark depending on the core. That’s with 5.3GHz P-Cores, 4.3GHz E-cores, and 4.5GHz cache. Those are constant all core clocks. Optimus signature V2 block is superb.


direct die?


----------



## HyperMatrix

criskoe said:


> At what coolant temp for those values?


I think around 24-25C when I did the runs. Nothing special. 



dng25 said:


> direct die?


Standard mount on IHS. No backplate. With liquid metal.


----------



## acoustic

HyperMatrix said:


> I think around 24-25C when I did the runs. Nothing special.
> 
> 
> Standard mount on IHS. No backplate. With liquid metal.


What voltage, what wattage?


----------



## HyperMatrix

acoustic said:


> What voltage, what wattage?


1.38V LL6 I believe. Wattage was hitting max 270-280W I think? I’d have to rerun benches to confirm.


----------



## LiquidHaus

HyperMatrix said:


> Standard mount on IHS. No backplate. With liquid metal.


You bringing up a backplate reminded me of this. Made this IG story the other week with the Phanteks block I used for that EVO build...










Modified the included bracket to work with 1700. Works absolutely perfect.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Any one get shipment notification this week?


----------



## Paramedic10

LiquidHaus said:


> You bringing up a backplate reminded me of this. Made this IG story the other week with the Phanteks block I used for that EVO build...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Modified the included bracket to work with 1700. Works absolutely perfect.


You modified a Phanteks bracket to work with the Optimus sig V2 on 1700?


----------



## doox00

Just received shipping notification for white ftw3 block and white intel signature v2 block, ordered 6 weeks ago. Last items for my new build.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Paramedic10 said:


> You modified a Phanteks bracket to work with the Optimus sig V2 on 1700?


No, I modified the bracket to work with the corresponding block. Nothing about Optimus, just bringing up the fact that it's possible to make due with what you have.

Alder Lake simply requires an actual backplate when mounting any cooler. It's quickly becoming apparent that it's difficult to achieve a proper surface to surface mating due to bowing in some form or another.

I was gonna try out an Optimus block with Alder Lake but I don't have a spare block to use.


----------



## Biggu

LiquidHaus said:


> No, I modified the bracket to work with the corresponding block. Nothing about Optimus, just bringing up the fact that it's possible to make due with what you have.
> 
> Alder Lake simply requires an actual backplate when mounting any cooler. It's quickly becoming apparent that it's difficult to achieve a proper surface to surface mating due to bowing in some form or another.
> 
> I was gonna try out an Optimus block with Alder Lake but I don't have a spare block to use.


Ive got a Signature v2 block laying around I have no use for. Its a blem model though so I dunno if that would be what your after but it would be priced accordingly.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

5223 shipped (saw on another forum. Silver nickel)
5224 shipped ( black copper cp)


----------



## Paramedic10

LiquidHaus said:


> No, I modified the bracket to work with the corresponding block. Nothing about Optimus, just bringing up the fact that it's possible to make due with what you have.
> 
> Alder Lake simply requires an actual backplate when mounting any cooler. It's quickly becoming apparent that it's difficult to achieve a proper surface to surface mating due to bowing in some form or another.
> 
> I was gonna try out an Optimus block with Alder Lake but I don't have a spare block to use.


This is what I'm worried about, using a sig V2 on alder lake without a backplate as Optimus doesn't supply one. I've seen a few people go without but it seems hit or miss.

I've heard the HK IV with 1700 mounting kit and plate works swimmingly. However I'm building my loop from scratch and have a V2 on order so I'm tempted to at least try out and see what happens. Still haven't heard of a definite solution of a backplate that works with V2 on 1700...


----------



## acoustic

Paramedic10 said:


> This is what I'm worried about, using a sig V2 on alder lake without a backplate as Optimus doesn't supply one. I've seen a few people go without but it seems hit or miss.
> 
> I've heard the HK IV with 1700 mounting kit and plate works swimmingly. However I'm building my loop from scratch and have a V2 on order so I'm tempted to at least try out and see what happens. Still haven't heard of a definite solution of a backplate that works with V2 on 1700...


I have the HKIV on a 12700K and ASUS TUF with the 1200 mounting and the temps were great. When I get home from this deployment, I have a 1700 mounting kit + 1700 backplate waiting for me. Looking forward to seeing the improvement. I have KPx on the chip.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I have the HKIV on a 12700K and ASUS TUF with the 1200 mounting and the temps were great. When I get home from this deployment, I have a 1700 mounting kit + 1700 backplate waiting for me. Looking forward to seeing the improvement. I have KPx on the chip.


Tell us if any improvement.


----------



## D-EJ915

Not tried mine but the socket feels more secure at least and ddr5 requires SMD dimm slots so it may not impact high end oc as much as on 115x/1200.


----------



## LiquidHaus

D-EJ915 said:


> Not tried mine but the socket feels more secure at least and ddr5 requires SMD dimm slots so it may not impact high end oc as much as on 115x/1200.


I'm not sure what you mean by all that. The socket design and the surface to surface mount dilemma doesn't have anything to do with DDR5's power delivery.

It has more to do with cheaper board SKU's using thinner PCB's, resulting in easier flexing during the mounting process. This in turn affects perfect or close to perfect surface to surface results. Either way, the best practice you could do for 1700 is a backplate. Not sure if Optimus blocks are shipping with springs but I don't even think the springs would make any difference like a backplate would.

The backplate literally distributes the mounting pressure across the entire socket and the surrounding area, so it's more uniform in it's application. At that point, it's just a matter of making sure your cooler's cold plate is the right amount of convex or concave to mate with your 12th gen CPU. Or you can snag a perfect flat cold plate depending on if the company you're rocking makes one, and then lap the CPU.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Also, 

Merry Christmas everyone! I hope we all have some happy holidays, and a reminder not to let things get you down!


----------



## dwolvin

Back atcha! Looking forward to the new year.


----------



## frag06

Have there been any issues without a backplate on the Optimus Sig? I have a Sig, but having a HK IV with a 1700 backplate seems like the better (or easier) option right now? 

Merry Christmas all!


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Also,
> 
> Merry Christmas everyone! I hope we all have some happy holidays, and a reminder not to let things get you down!


You too.


















Final piece. Got it to run at ddr5-6000 too (its 5600 kit). Just missing the mammoth75/20 now.


----------



## Gotspeed_2000

Just got my block done tonight since I have to quarantine (my son has Covid so we are all stuck at home for now). 




















The completed block is really heavy. I'd vertical mount this or make sure to add bracing to help support the weight. Also, make sure to read ahead to plan the installation. Pages 3 and 4 really need to be considered together as you near the completion of the block. Also, for taking apart the hybrid, following EVGA's instructions for their hydro copper conversion is very helpful and clear.

Merry Christmas everyone and be safe.


----------



## criskoe

Is that the silver or while? Looks good.


----------



## Gotspeed_2000

It is the silver. The lighting isn't the greatest.


----------



## satinghostrider

Finally got everything fixed and this is my first breath of life for my 12900k Z690 Apex + Strix 3080 Ti Optimus.


----------



## Gotspeed_2000

Anyone with the new Optimus Kingpin block air pressure test their blocks prior to installation? I finished my build, but I'm having issues with the air pressure testing prior to testing with water. I thought it was the adapter block that connects the front and rear blocks together, but after additional work to isolate the issue which included checking all the mounting screws, tension of each of the screws, disconnecting and realigning the front and rear blocks, and then finally adding water to the block to help with pressure testing to isolate the leak area. Using the EK pressure tester with the water added I found that the leak is between the pcb and the front block. I looked at the adapter plate, but it doesn't look like that is the source so I'm going to have to take apart my gpu and take a look at the cold plate which I think is the source of the leak. It really sucks cause it's not that easy to pressure test the block prior to installation. I should have assembled the front and rear blocks to pressure test it before mounting it, but I figured I'd had good results with the Optimus blocks in the past so I figured I'd just put it together and pressure test it after assembly. Maybe mines was a fluke, but I wanted to share what I am going through to help those who are waiting on their blocks.

Follow up #1: I took apart my block and the thermal pads for the front block partially torn apart upon disassembly. They are very thin and fragile to work with to start, so good thing I bought a set prior as a spare. Upon taking off the front block, I saw that one of the screws mounting the cold plate to the block was not tightened down like the other three. The one screw was loose and not tightened down at all. It was down not to protrude from the cold plate, but was loose and extremely easy to remove with very little effort. The other three screws for the cold plate were much tighter than the 4th in comparison. Took off all four screws and the cold plate and there was a bit of water on both sides of the cold plate sealing oring. I think this is where the pressure was leaking from and I am in the process of putting things back together. Will update later when time allows to redo the thermal tape and remount the front block and the "terminal" as Optimus refers to. I'm not sure how this could have passed any pressure testing unless the pressure was very low. I could not even get .5 bar to hold pressure in my block earlier. I'm hoping this solves my problem.

Follow up #2: I re-assembled the block and after pressure testing for the last 20 minutes at .75 bar no loss of pressure. I really think for those who are going to get their blocks to double check the could plate to ensure it is tightened enough to seal. If I didn't do my checks, there's a chance it could have leaked between the block and pcb and caused all kinds of other issues while my pc was in use. Initially the block would not hold any consistent pressure. I am really not sure how Optimus is pressure testing their blocks prior to shipment if they are at all. To me, this lack of attention on assembly is a big issue that could have caused my gpu to fail. While distilled water is less conductive, it's still something that could have lead to much larger issues. Visual checks on the depth of the screws in the recessed area of the cold plate can be done easily. I didn't do this on the initial installation and took it for granted. But after tearing it down, having found the issue I almost wanted to kick myself as all I did was take off the sticker covering the cold plate contact area. I should have been more attentive on this issue before I installed it. I relied of Optimus testing the block first before shipping it to me. Something I will make sure to double check moving forward from now on.


----------



## Section31

satinghostrider said:


> View attachment 2539437
> 
> View attachment 2539435
> 
> 
> Finally got everything fixed and this is my first breath of life for my 12900k Z690 Apex + Strix 3080 Ti Optimus.


Looking nice


----------



## satinghostrider

Wow Optimus sure wasn't lying about their delta temps! Got 6.4degrees delta looping 20mins on 8K superstition.


----------



## Section31

satinghostrider said:


> View attachment 2539648
> 
> 
> View attachment 2539649
> 
> 
> Wow Optimus sure wasn't lying about their delta temps! Got 6.4degrees delta looping 20mins on 8K superstition.


Perfect for an store front btw. Background seems very familiar to me.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Got my block in..



















Working on choosing a new CPU block to swap out before I swap the KP block though, not sure which way to go.


----------



## doox00

Mine showed up last week, FTW3 block.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

latpboe_4046 said:


> Hello Everyone,
> 
> Writing here to share my problem with my KPE after Optimus WB installation to seek for suggestions/ideas before I throw myself from a cliff ...
> I'm sure this has nothing to do with Optimus, there must be something I'm missing.
> 
> After installation I booted the computer and everything seemed fined, the windows boot logo appeared but after that the screen went black.
> I rebooted and the KPE screen showd TOO LOW +5V and TOO LOW PEXVDD, refusing to show anything in screen. MB Q-Codes showed that other than the GPU everything was booting fine.
> Considering the messages I tried to reseat the GPU to check if it was a bad contact with the PCI-E slot. Nothing, the PEX INPUT TOO LOW was all I got.
> I've disassembled the KPE, checked for water or damage, I found nothing ... reassembled and PEX INPUT TOO LOW again ...
> I checked the KPE in another PCI-E slot with the same result, then took it to another computer and once again all I get is the PEX INPUT TOO LOW with no further message.
> 
> I've opened a ticket with EVGA to see if they can help/repair the KPE, still waiting for their answer. In the meantime ... any suggestions/ideas from anyone ...


How did things go with EVGA?

Also, did you reach out to Optimus and inform them about what happened? Perhaps they can troubleshoot before more cards are broken.



Gotspeed_2000 said:


> Anyone with the new Optimus Kingpin block air pressure test their blocks prior to installation? I finished my build, but I'm having issues with the air pressure testing prior to testing with water. I thought it was the adapter block that connects the front and rear blocks together, but after additional work to isolate the issue which included checking all the mounting screws, tension of each of the screws, disconnecting and realigning the front and rear blocks, and then finally adding water to the block to help with pressure testing to isolate the leak area. Using the EK pressure tester with the water added I found that the leak is between the pcb and the front block. I looked at the adapter plate, but it doesn't look like that is the source so I'm going to have to take apart my gpu and take a look at the cold plate which I think is the source of the leak. It really sucks cause it's not that easy to pressure test the block prior to installation. I should have assembled the front and rear blocks to pressure test it before mounting it, but I figured I'd had good results with the Optimus blocks in the past so I figured I'd just put it together and pressure test it after assembly. Maybe mines was a fluke, but I wanted to share what I am going through to help those who are waiting on their blocks.
> 
> Follow up #1: I took apart my block and the thermal pads for the front block partially torn apart upon disassembly. They are very thin and fragile to work with to start, so good thing I bought a set prior as a spare. Upon taking off the front block, I saw that one of the screws mounting the cold plate to the block was not tightened down like the other three. The one screw was loose and not tightened down at all. It was down not to protrude from the cold plate, but was loose and extremely easy to remove with very little effort. The other three screws for the cold plate were much tighter than the 4th in comparison. Took off all four screws and the cold plate and there was a bit of water on both sides of the cold plate sealing oring. I think this is where the pressure was leaking from and I am in the process of putting things back together. Will update later when time allows to redo the thermal tape and remount the front block and the "terminal" as Optimus refers to. I'm not sure how this could have passed any pressure testing unless the pressure was very low. I could not even get .5 bar to hold pressure in my block earlier. I'm hoping this solves my problem.
> 
> Follow up #2: I re-assembled the block and after pressure testing for the last 20 minutes at .75 bar no loss of pressure. I really think for those who are going to get their blocks to double check the could plate to ensure it is tightened enough to seal. If I didn't do my checks, there's a chance it could have leaked between the block and pcb and caused all kinds of other issues while my pc was in use. Initially the block would not hold any consistent pressure. I am really not sure how Optimus is pressure testing their blocks prior to shipment if they are at all. To me, this lack of attention on assembly is a big issue that could have caused my gpu to fail. While distilled water is less conductive, it's still something that could have lead to much larger issues. Visual checks on the depth of the screws in the recessed area of the cold plate can be done easily. I didn't do this on the initial installation and took it for granted. But after tearing it down, having found the issue I almost wanted to kick myself as all I did was take off the sticker covering the cold plate contact area. I should have been more attentive on this issue before I installed it. I relied of Optimus testing the block first before shipping it to me. Something I will make sure to double check moving forward from now on.


I don't know how Optimus could have missed that either. Definitely check for leaks before installing any block.

Have you installed it yet? Did you get any PCB flexing as others have?


----------



## Gotspeed_2000

As much as I want to get this card in I can't because most of my parts and tools are packed up. I am in the middle of a major home renovation and because of that the dust and debris is going everywhere. I have my tubes and tube bending things packed away in large storage boxes right now. I also have a lack of workspace as well so it was pretty interesting working in a much smaller area doing the conversion. 

PCB flex due to mounting is minimal if any. The only screws which need any sort of real torque is the 4 around the gpu die. The others are just there to mount the board between the two plates. Just try to find the balance between being just right with tension with those and you should be golden. No real need to torque those down hard, but the initial instructions weren't clear so I can see how those who got their blocks early would deform the PCB. I'll know more if my assembly was correct once I get the gpu into my system and new tubes bent for use in my loop. I hard line my system, so I'll need to create new tubes from my bottom rad to the gpu and from the gpu to my top rad. 

The flex will be real with this block. Anyone who got one assembled will tell you it weighs a ton. I wish I had a scale easily available to measure how heavy it is, but it really is that heavy and because it doesn't extend the full length of the pcb I can only imagine that at that point near the signal outputs would put a strain on the PCB if you mount this gpu horizontal without additional support to spread the load.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Gotspeed_2000 said:


> As much as I want to get this card in I can't because most of my parts and tools are packed up. I am in the middle of a major home renovation and because of that the dust and debris is going everywhere. I have my tubes and tube bending things packed away in large storage boxes right now. I also have a lack of workspace as well so it was pretty interesting working in a much smaller area doing the conversion.
> 
> PCB flex due to mounting is minimal if any. The only screws which need any sort of real torque is the 4 around the gpu die. The others are just there to mount the board between the two plates. Just try to find the balance between being just right with tension with those and you should be golden. No real need to torque those down hard, but the initial instructions weren't clear so I can see how those who got their blocks early would deform the PCB. I'll know more if my assembly was correct once I get the gpu into my system and new tubes bent for use in my loop. I hard line my system, so I'll need to create new tubes from my bottom rad to the gpu and from the gpu to my top rad.
> 
> The flex will be real with this block. Anyone who got one assembled will tell you it weighs a ton. I wish I had a scale easily available to measure how heavy it is, but it really is that heavy and because it doesn't extend the full length of the pcb I can only imagine that at that point near the signal outputs would put a strain on the PCB if you mount this gpu horizontal without additional support to spread the load.


I can only imagine how much that block weighs.

My Strix block is super heavy and the KPE has the back different plus it’s wider that thing must weigh atleast 6-8ish pounds?


@LiquidHaus those pics look so ****ing good,that block really beats anything out there aestheticallywise by far!
I think the cerakote black (unfortunately OPTIMUS at that time didn’t have the cerakote black for the Strix 😔 ) would look amazing with my matte black tubes.
Nickel 16mm fittings (to get a 2nd color in) with the Phanteks 90 degree ones and the matte black tubes I have,that would be a dream build!


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> You too.
> 
> View attachment 2539364
> 
> View attachment 2539365
> 
> 
> Final piece. Got it to run at ddr5-6000 too (its 5600 kit). Just missing the mammoth75/20 now.


Taking me forever to get back around to directing funds to my build. Still have a pile of parts sitting in a corner. How's the Mayhems XTR doing?

EDIT: And is that acrylic or PETG?


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Taking me forever to get back around to directing funds to my build. Still have a pile of parts sitting in a corner. How's the Mayhems XTR doing?
> 
> EDIT: And is that acrylic or PETG?


its doing fine. Its corsair acrylic


----------



## chibi

@LiquidHaus - regarding your rad cleaning process, if no local distilled vinegar is available, can I use regular white vinegar? I have a bottle of Blitz 1 but not sure I want to use it on my new Heatkiller rads this go around. Another alternative I found was 10% white vinegar. Is that too strong do you think?


----------



## LiquidHaus

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> @LiquidHaus those pics look so ****ing good,that block really beats anything out there aestheticallywise by far!
> I think the cerakote black (unfortunately OPTIMUS at that time didn’t have the cerakote black for the Strix 😔 ) would look amazing with my matte black tubes.
> Nickel 16mm fittings (to get a 2nd color in) with the Phanteks 90 degree ones and the matte black tubes I have,that would be a dream build!


Yeah man the all black color scheme is just wild, looks perfect imo. I say it's time to change it up then! Maybe they can send you a new Strix coldplate that's cerakoted black and you can send yours in or something? Maybe worth asking them?



chibi said:


> @LiquidHaus - regarding your rad cleaning process, if no local distilled vinegar is available, can I use regular white vinegar? I have a bottle of Blitz 1 but not sure I want to use it on my new Heatkiller rads this go around. Another alternative I found was 10% white vinegar. Is that too strong do you think?


Distilled is less acidic, so throw in a little distilled water in with the white vinegar that you do have. Either way, it shouldn't change much in regards to the overall process other than spending more time flushing the radiator out with normal water. You should be good to go!


----------



## warbucks

HyperMatrix said:


> Under full cinebench loads I’m around the 67-75C mark depending on the core. That’s with 5.3GHz P-Cores, 4.3GHz E-cores, and 4.5GHz cache. Those are constant all core clocks. Optimus signature V2 block is superb.


Cinebench R23?


----------



## HyperMatrix

warbucks said:


> Cinebench R23?


Yes I completed many runs. I didn’t set it up for a score test. Just ran it for stability. So had background apps/tasks and all services enabled. I believe best I got was about 30,500 in multi and around 2150 for single core going off of some pics in my album. Wasn't going for score and just stability testing to make sure it was good for 24/7 usage under all workloads.

edit: Just re-ran the bench right now. Water temp much hotter at 29.5C compared to my original run which was at around 24C. Flow is down since that last test as I went from 3 Pumps for 4 rads and 1 CPU block to 2 Pumps for 4 rads, 1 CPU block, and 1 GPU block with active backplate. Pulling 285W during the bench. CPU block looks like it needs to be re-seated. Too much temp diff between cores. Wasn't quite this bad when I first set it up. May be due to lack of back plate and subsequent flexing on my motherboard. Or it may be something else. Either way, this screenshot was taken immediately after a CB23 run and is in line with the numbers I stated before, with the exception of 2 cores. Running BCLK at 100.4 to compensate for the odd drop to 99.6 and resulting 5278MHz with 53x multiplier. This way I get the actual clock I want and satisfy my OCD.


----------



## Paramedic10

HyperMatrix said:


> Yes I completed many runs. I didn’t set it up for a score test. Just ran it for stability. So had background apps/tasks and all services enabled. I believe best I got was about 30,500 in multi and around 2150 for single core going off of some pics in my album. Wasn't going for score and just stability testing to make sure it was good for 24/7 usage under all workloads.
> 
> edit: Just re-ran the bench right now. Water temp much hotter at 29.5C compared to my original run which was at around 24C. Flow is down since that last test as I went from 3 Pumps for 4 rads and 1 CPU block to 2 Pumps for 4 rads, 1 CPU block, and 1 GPU block with active backplate. Pulling 285W during the bench. CPU block looks like it needs to be re-seated. Too much temp diff between cores. Wasn't quite this bad when I first set it up. May be due to lack of back plate and subsequent flexing on my motherboard. Or it may be something else. Either way, this screenshot was taken immediately after a CB23 run and is in line with the numbers I stated before, with the exception of 2 cores. Running BCLK at 100.4 to compensate for the odd drop to 99.6 and resulting 5278MHz with 53x multiplier. This way I get the actual clock I want and satisfy my OCD.
> 
> View attachment 2540302


The most recent bios update for my ASUS board fixed the 99.6 multiplier issue for me. Not sure if you've done this yet.

Pretty wide spread in the max core temps on that run. Definitely interested to see if a re-seat will fix it. I've been considering the HK IV with their new backplate for 1700 after seeing suboptimal or inconsistent outcomes with the sig v2 on LGA 1700. Hoping this can be fixed because I have a V2 on order.


----------



## acoustic

Paramedic10 said:


> The most recent bios update for my ASUS board fixed the 99.6 multiplier issue for me. Not sure if you've done this yet.
> 
> Pretty wide spread in the max core temps on that run. Definitely interested to see if a re-seat will fix it. I've been considering the HK IV with their new backplate for 1700 after seeing suboptimal or inconsistent outcomes with the sig v2 on LGA 1700. Hoping this can be fixed because I have a V2 on order.


I really like the HKIV 1700 mounting kit with that thick backplate. IMO, I think a backplate for LGA1700 is pretty much required, especially if running a DDR4 board, since there's no quality boards available. I don't know if there's any reports of socket flex with the higher end boards such as the APEX or MSI ACE, but it's certainly a concern with the cheaper boards.


----------



## Paramedic10

acoustic said:


> I really like the HKIV 1700 mounting kit with that thick backplate. IMO, I think a backplate for LGA1700 is pretty much required, especially if running a DDR4 board, since there's no quality boards available. I don't know if there's any reports of socket flex with the higher end boards such as the APEX or MSI ACE, but it's certainly a concern with the cheaper boards.


I really am leaning in this direction. The V2 looks like such a stellar block but with an honestly outdated and poor mounting mechanism compared to what's available. 

Would you consider a D5 ASUS Z690E gaming a higher end board? I think it's a high end of middle range. I think it has an 8 layer PCB but not sure if that contributes to reduced board flex or not.


----------



## acoustic

Paramedic10 said:


> I really am leaning in this direction. The V2 looks like such a stellar block but with an honestly outdated and poor mounting mechanism compared to what's available.
> 
> Would you consider a D5 ASUS Z690E gaming a higher end board? I think it's a high end of middle range. I think it has an 8 layer PCB but not sure if that contributes to reduced board flex or not.


The Z690E is the STRIX, correct? It's not bad, but I wouldn't call it high-end. Truthfully, most of the boards are going to be just fine for ambient OC. Some of the higher end boards will perform better when it comes to memory OC, but yeah.

The struggle is real for DDR4 users. The best we get is the STRIX, or the MSI Pro. Neither are very well built. I'm currently on a TUF as I'm just holding out until Sapphire Rapids in Q3 2022.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I think the best solution for everyone is to find a good backplate for LGA 1700.

I'll snag Watercool's backplate on the next collab, but PPCS was selling EKWB backplates for super cheap the other week during the sales so I snagged two of them. 

They aren't bad, 1/8" thick, seems to be galvanized steel with threaded corners. Definitely will do the trick as well. I think with 12th gen Intel setups, it's worth finding a backplate regardless of the block manufacturer and then making the mounting hardware work.


----------



## warbucks

HyperMatrix said:


> Yes I completed many runs. I didn’t set it up for a score test. Just ran it for stability. So had background apps/tasks and all services enabled. I believe best I got was about 30,500 in multi and around 2150 for single core going off of some pics in my album. Wasn't going for score and just stability testing to make sure it was good for 24/7 usage under all workloads.
> 
> edit: Just re-ran the bench right now. Water temp much hotter at 29.5C compared to my original run which was at around 24C. Flow is down since that last test as I went from 3 Pumps for 4 rads and 1 CPU block to 2 Pumps for 4 rads, 1 CPU block, and 1 GPU block with active backplate. Pulling 285W during the bench. CPU block looks like it needs to be re-seated. Too much temp diff between cores.  Wasn't quite this bad when I first set it up. May be due to lack of back plate and subsequent flexing on my motherboard. Or it may be something else. Either way, this screenshot was taken immediately after a CB23 run and is in line with the numbers I stated before, with the exception of 2 cores. Running BCLK at 100.4 to compensate for the odd drop to 99.6 and resulting 5278MHz with 53x multiplier. This way I get the actual clock I want and satisfy my OCD.
> 
> View attachment 2540302


Thanks. I figured your temps would be higher. I have the sig v2 block and the temps are quite high given my custom loop. I need to try re-seating the block but with the ekwb socket 1700 backplate I have.


----------



## warbucks

LiquidHaus said:


> I think the best solution for everyone is to find a good backplate for LGA 1700.
> 
> I'll snag Watercool's backplate on the next collab, but PPCS was selling EKWB backplates for super cheap the other week during the sales so I snagged two of them.
> 
> They aren't bad, 1/8" thick, seems to be galvanized steel with threaded corners. Definitely will do the trick as well. I think with 12th gen Intel setups, it's worth finding a backplate regardless of the block manufacturer and then making the mounting hardware work.


I think this will be the case for the sig v2. I picked up a ekwb 1700 backplate and plan to re-seat my block using it with the appropriate mounting hardware. I'll post the results once I've made the change.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Paramedic10 said:


> I really am leaning in this direction. The V2 looks like such a stellar block but with an honestly outdated and poor mounting mechanism compared to what's available.
> 
> Would you consider a D5 ASUS Z690E gaming a higher end board? I think it's a high end of middle range. I think it has an 8 layer PCB but not sure if that contributes to reduced board flex or not.


Do more copper layers make a PCB more rigid? They are all the same thickness.


----------



## Paramedic10

geriatricpollywog said:


> Do more copper layers make a PCB more rigid? They are all the same thickness.





LiquidHaus said:


> I think the best solution for everyone is to find a good backplate for LGA 1700.
> 
> I'll snag Watercool's backplate on the next collab, but PPCS was selling EKWB backplates for super cheap the other week during the sales so I snagged two of them.
> 
> They aren't bad, 1/8" thick, seems to be galvanized steel with threaded corners. Definitely will do the trick as well. I think with 12th gen Intel setups, it's worth finding a backplate regardless of the block manufacturer and then making the mounting hardware work.


How does one find a backplate that would work with a V2 block? I'm guessing custom modifications would be required, or at least sourcing custom hardware.



geriatricpollywog said:


> Do more copper layers make a PCB more rigid? They are all the same thickness.


I actually don't know but I'd like to find this out. Copper in and of itself is fairly bendable when this but maybe multiple layers makes it more rigid.


----------



## doox00

Paramedic10 said:


> How does one find a backplate that would work with a V2 block? I'm guessing custom modifications would be required, or at least sourcing custom hardware.


Wouldn't any back plate work, the holes would be the same on any 1700 motherboard, correct?


----------



## Zurv

What orientation are you guys using for the 12900k and an optumus block?
The 12900k is getting real hot around 5.4-5.5ghz. Makes me miss by i9-10980XE? (or maybe i have it mounted in a less than ideal way?
The "in" flow is mounted so it is near I/O inputs (usb/network/etc) on the "back" of the mobo.


----------



## dng25

Bending motherboard 😂


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> I think the best solution for everyone is to find a good backplate for LGA 1700.
> 
> I'll snag Watercool's backplate on the next collab, but PPCS was selling EKWB backplates for super cheap the other week during the sales so I snagged two of them.
> 
> They aren't bad, 1/8" thick, seems to be galvanized steel with threaded corners. Definitely will do the trick as well. I think with 12th gen Intel setups, it's worth finding a backplate regardless of the block manufacturer and then making the mounting hardware work.


Hopefully optimus makes one. Though haven’t been using my computer much. Other things and started working on part of my other project. The other end coming next week.


----------



## HyperMatrix

doox00 said:


> Wouldn't any back plate work, the holes would be the same on any 1700 motherboard, correct?


You’d have to get one of the Asus boards that have the holes for both sockets. Otherwise if you buy another brand you’ll have to drill the extra holes yourself.

















jk of course


----------



## Section31

Ordered the watercool backplate plus etc and will see how it turns out.


----------



## Paramedic10

Section31 said:


> Ordered the watercool backplate plus etc and will see how it turns out.


Plus etc? And are you planning on trying to get it to work with the Optimus V2?


----------



## Section31

Paramedic10 said:


> Plus etc? And are you planning on trying to get it to work with the Optimus V2?


My plans are an secret lol


----------



## Lobstar

Can I use this with my EVGA 3090 FTW3U and the Optimus Absolute?









RTX 3080 / 3090 Cooling Plate | RTX GPU Memory Cooling Solutions


Copper memory cooling plate for most 3080, 3080ti, 3090 GPUs -- this takes place of the thermal pads and uses thermal paste between the memory and the cooling plate, as well as thermal paste between the cooling plate and the GPU heatsink assembly.Fits MOST 3080, 3080ti, and 3090 GPUs...




www.coolmygpu.com


----------



## sakete

Since this is basically the high-end thread on OCN, anyone think AMD will soon release a 5950XT? I just placed a pick-up order at my local micro center for a 5950X, to upgrade my 3900X.

And then I saw potentially AMD is soon coming with a 3D cache version of Zen3. I think I should maybe cancel that order. 

I otherwise don't see a need to go to pcie5/ddr5 yet, will ride out AM4 a few more years (but then give it one final boost with a cpu upgrade).


----------



## dwolvin

I really don't see it being worth waiting unless you don't really need to upgrade. A 5950X is already a beast, ang going to me more than enough CPU for a while...


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Since this is basically the high-end thread on OCN, anyone think AMD will soon release a 5950XT? I just placed a pick-up order at my local micro center for a 5950X, to upgrade my 3900X.
> 
> And then I saw potentially AMD is soon coming with a 3D cache version of Zen3. I think I should maybe cancel that order.
> 
> I otherwise don't see a need to go to pcie5/ddr5 yet, will ride out AM4 a few more years (but then give it one final boost with a cpu upgrade).


Watch moore law is dead. I don’t see upgrade till meteorlake/lunarlake for consumer side and ryzen equivalent. GPU will get interesting with DG3 (Battlemage) challenging Lovelace.

By then whole slew of stuff you need to change (psu, nvme, etc). Tons of new watercooling stuff and possibly caselabs revival by then.


----------



## sakete

dwolvin said:


> I really don't see it being worth waiting unless you don't really need to upgrade. A 5950X is already a beast, ang going to me more than enough CPU for a while...


Yeah, true, but if an upgraded version of it comes out in the next month, I'd rather wait for that so I have the latest and greatest. If it takes 6 months, then I won't wait.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> Watch moore law is dead. I don’t see upgrade till meteorlake/lunarlake for consumer side and ryzen equivalent. GPU will get interesting with DG3 (Battlemage) challenging Lovelace.
> 
> By then whole slew of stuff you need to change (psu, nvme, etc). Tons of new watercooling stuff and possibly caselabs revival by then.


Right. That's why I want to upgrade AM4 platform one last time and ride it out for 3 years or so. I'll look into doing a bigger upgrade then.

Upgrading every year is such a huge waste of money.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I really want this v-cache update to net the performance jumps that AMD is actually claiming. I'd update my 5950X to whatever they end up calling it's replacement if they can actually nab a 15% jump. But if not, I'd still consider taking a look at any new AMD motherboards that come out with these new Ryzens - especially if your current board is giving you issues. Luckily I've seen companies putting out BIOS updates pretty regularly, so everyone's boards should assumingly be running well.


----------



## sakete

LiquidHaus said:


> I really want this v-cache update to net the performance jumps that AMD is actually claiming. I'd update my 5950X to whatever they end up calling it's replacement if they can actually nab a 15% jump. But if not, I'd still consider taking a look at any new AMD motherboards that come out with these new Ryzens - especially if your current board is giving you issues. Luckily I've seen companies putting out BIOS updates pretty regularly, so everyone's boards should assumingly be running well.


I'll keep my current Asus x570 board (the Formula). Will do a cpu only upgrade, and then a bigger overhaul in ~3 years or so (unless something comes out earlier that really warrants it).


----------



## elbramso

There will be a 3090ti Kingpin... WOW
Thought they wouldn't do it but well I guess there's money to make.


----------



## iamjanco

Good luck with that. If the current Hydrocopper block won't be compatible with the reworked K|NGP|N, there's the likelihood that the current Optimus block might not be compatible as well.



> Due to the recent design changes, the original Hydro Copper water blocks for the GeForce RTX 3090 K|NGP|N do not fit on the GeForce RTX 3090 Ti K|NGP|N variant.


*Source.*

Of course, it's all currently little more than speculation...


----------



## elbramso

iamjanco said:


> Good luck with that. If the current Hydrocopper block won't be compatible with the reworked K|NGP|N, there's the likelihood that the current Optimus block might not be compatible as well.
> 
> 
> 
> *Source.*
> 
> Of course, it's all currently little more than speculation...


Current hydrocopper won't fit, there was a statement from Vince in regards to this already.


----------



## iamjanco

If Vince made that statement, then it's not speculation of course.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

iamjanco said:


> Good luck with that. If the current Hydrocopper block won't be compatible with the reworked K|NGP|N, there's the likelihood that the current Optimus block might not be compatible as well.


This implies the Optimus block fits the current KPE


----------



## iamjanco

^Lol!!!


----------



## elbramso

OK it was in fact not Vince's statement...

As per Twitter user harukaze5719:

EVGA RTX 3090 Ti KINGPIN

New PCB, shroud
PCIe 8-pin ×3 → NVIDIA 16-pin(or 12-pin) ×2
MSRP is little more higher than original KINGPIN
Original RTX 3090 KINGPIN could be EOL
PCB is final state, but need more BIOS tweak
Original Hydro Copper waterblock doesn't fit.


----------



## iamjanco

^I don't know who harukaze5719 is, do you? I don't think he/she is Vince, given what I found using Google search, which seems to indicate that they're 대한민국 커뮤니티 쿨앤조이 및 퀘이사존에서 활동 중인 평범한 컴덕 유저 (tr. Ordinary comduck users active in the Korean community Cool & Joy and Quasar Zone).

Probably best to wait until the info is officially released.

Btw, *here's a link* to a version of the article as it was actually released (the comments about the 3090ti kingpin card claims there by other Quasar Zone members are fairly skeptical themselves). <-- bad info, that's *an article that was sourced from Videocardz*.

A quote from that article:



> The new information suggests that the RTX 3090 Ti Kingpin would require dual 12-pin power connectors. This is the new generation PCIe Gen 5.0 power connector that we talked about. It has 12 standard pins and 4 data paths which are optional. It is unclear for now how manufacturers will call this connector, but it seems to be fully compatible with the existing NVIDIA 12-pin (Molex Microfit 3.0) connector.
> 
> By introducing dual 12-pin power connectors, the card could theoretically consume up to 1275W of power, which is a massive upgrade with nearly 750W more power than a potential 3x 8-pin configuration (max 525W).
> 
> The rumors alleged that existing Hydro Copper water blocks for RTX 3090 Kingpin will not be compatible with the new model. It should also be noted that the power connector change is not the only major difference with the non-Ti model. The RTX 3090 Ti will also have half of the memory modules, as the new SKU is being upgraded to 16Gb (2GB) 21 Gbps memory.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

My block finally shipped, just in time for the new Kingpin that it won't fit to come out


----------



## warbucks

LiquidHaus said:


> I think the best solution for everyone is to find a good backplate for LGA 1700.
> 
> I'll snag Watercool's backplate on the next collab, but PPCS was selling EKWB backplates for super cheap the other week during the sales so I snagged two of them.
> 
> They aren't bad, 1/8" thick, seems to be galvanized steel with threaded corners. Definitely will do the trick as well. I think with 12th gen Intel setups, it's worth finding a backplate regardless of the block manufacturer and then making the mounting hardware work.


Did you install the ekwb backplate yet? If so, did you just use the springs and thumb screws or did you add a spacer between the block and the spring?


----------



## LiquidHaus

3090Ti comes out Feb-Mar 2022. 40 series drops Aug-Oct 2022, I'll be wagering. Let people who don't have a 30 series yet snag the 3090Ti. We'll get our 40 series or newer when it's the right time!


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> 3090Ti comes out Feb-Mar 2022. 40 series drops Aug-Oct 2022, I'll be wagering. Let people who don't have a 30 series yet snag the 3090Ti. We'll get our 40 series or newer when it's the right time!


Yeah. I’m thinking skipping 4000/rx7000 series and wait for dg3 or dg4, 5000 (hopper) and 8000 series. Big overhaul in 2024/2025.

I’m enjoying the world of custom keyboards atm. Though watching it. I’m watching the upcoming owlabs arisu atm.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> I’m enjoying the world of custom keyboards atm. Though watching it. I’m watching the upcoming owlabs arisu atm.


I love the look of custom keyboards.

However, I have used Lenovo keyboards at work for the past 6 years and I’m so used to the key height and spacing. I can barely type on anything else. So I stole one and I use it at home. Plus, the custom ones don’t have multimedia controls which is a must-have for me.


----------



## Section31

geriatricpollywog said:


> I love the look of custom keyboards.
> 
> However, I have used Lenovo keyboards at work for the past 6 years and I’m so used to the key height and spacing. I can barely type on anything else. So I stole one and I use it at home. Plus, the custom ones don’t have multimedia controls which is a must-have for me.


Office don’t care about the keyboard (cheap replacement). Keyboard is literally Personal Preference. Nobody is wrong nor correct. Whatever works for your needs.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I saw this video on Reddit the other day, and I thought it was a great representation of what building your own keyboard could net you:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/rtk7nj


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> I saw this video on Reddit the other day, and I thought it was a great representation of what building your own keyboard could net you:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/rtk7nj


Whenever i do my major build in couple years, i should give you an free custom keyboard. Extra visual for it.


----------



## Biggu

geriatricpollywog said:


> Plus, the custom ones don’t have multimedia controls which is a must-have for me.


on the surface no but you can configure multimedia controls on a different layer which is probably what most people do. I know I personally have multimedia controls on a second layer on my num pad.


----------



## sakete

Well, no 3D 5950X from AMD, so I guess a regular 5950X is in the cards. Will try to pick it up today or tomorrow at micro center.


----------



## LiquidHaus

sakete said:


> Well, no 3D 5950X from AMD, so I guess a regular 5950X is in the cards. Will try to pick it up today or tomorrow at micro center.


I made note of that as well, however Gamers Nexus stated they fully assume the 5950X3D will indeed exist. I believe they needed to show a 3D SKU that could compare with a non-3D SKU that'll be shown as slower. The 5800X3D is the perfect candidate for that.


----------



## sakete

LiquidHaus said:


> I made note of that as well, however Gamers Nexus stated they fully assume the 5950X3D will indeed exist. I believe they needed to show a 3D SKU that could compare with a non-3D SKU that'll be shown as slower. The 5800X3D is the perfect candidate for that.


Yeah, perhaps. But then why didn't they announce it? And then it's looking like Q2 either way, I'm not going to wait that long.

The 5950x will be a nice upgrade from the 3900X and will keep me good for the next 3 years at least.

In fact, I just picked it up


----------



## HyperMatrix

sakete said:


> Yeah, perhaps. But then why didn't they announce it? And then it's looking like Q2 either way, I'm not going to wait that long.
> 
> The 5950x will be a nice upgrade from the 3900X and will keep me good for the next 3 years at least.
> 
> In fact, I just picked it up


You guys aren't worried at all about thermals with 3D V-Cache? It sits on top of the regular die. Makes for compact packaging. But also adds layers between the die and ihs. They had to lower the base and boost clocks of the new CPU, seemingly as a result of that.

I guess it'll all depend on what kind of performance gains we'll see from the V-Cache. 

Their own marketing slide is interesting. 3 wins and 3 ties. Which is technically impressive since it's at a lower clock speed and compared to the latest top end Intel CPU. But really going to be curious how they did the testing and how it really pans out. Also no idea what Intel configuration was used. If I were AMD, for example, I'd set up the 12900K system using the default DDR5 4800/CL40 spec memory which absolutely cripples the CPU's performance. I have a suspicion that the numbers aren't going to be as favorable using the same high bandwidth/low latency memory setup on both. If you give both CPUs lower bandwidth and higher latency memory, while on paper it would seem fair, it would allow the V-Cache to have an outsized impact on the performance metrics.

Bottom line...definitely interested to see some benchmarks as we've been screwed over way too many times from all 3 companies and their false advertising.


----------



## LiquidHaus

sakete said:


> Yeah, perhaps. But then why didn't they announce it? And then it's looking like Q2 either way, I'm not going to wait that long.
> 
> The 5950x will be a nice upgrade from the 3900X and will keep me good for the next 3 years at least.
> 
> In fact, I just picked it up


Nice choice my friend! I've definitely been enjoying my 5950X. Yeah these being in Spring, I wonder if different core counts will come out at different times, since like you said the 5950X3D wasn't teased.




HyperMatrix said:


> You guys aren't worried at all about thermals with 3D V-Cache? It sits on top of the regular die. Makes for compact packaging. But also adds layers between the die and ihs. They had to lower the base and boost clocks of the new CPU, seemingly as a result of that.
> 
> Bottom line...definitely interested to see some benchmarks as we've been screwed over way too many times from all 3 companies and their false advertising.


Agreed, we gotta wait for benchmarks. I'm curious about the die layout since as of right now, the L3 cache sits next to the actual cores. I seriously doubt they'd stack this new 3D cache on top of the cores themselves.

I will say that I love to hear that they'll be retaining the exact AM4 dimensions for coolers moving forward with their new AM5 socket, though! Same Z-axis too, which means compatibility straight across generations. Love it.


----------



## HyperMatrix

LiquidHaus said:


> Agreed, we gotta wait for benchmarks. I'm curious about the die layout since as of right now, the L3 cache sits next to the actual cores. I seriously doubt they'd stack this new 3D cache on top of the cores themselves.


Yup. You're right. They're very specifically avoiding placement over the actual cores. Only potential downside being that they need to level the supportive silicon on top of the die so there is uniformity. This could result in less thermal transfer, but to what degree is unknown. I'll just refer back to my original question as to why the clock speeds would need to be reduced on an 8 core chip to accommodate the 3D V-Cache. Could be thermal issues or simply a TDP limitation. Combination of slightly increased supporting silicon on top of the cores, along with the extra heat generated by the V-Cache, or the extra power required for the massive cache, could be pushing TDP too high and instead of raising TDP limit they could have just clocked it lower. With TDP limit removal in bios and either manual overclocking or PBO these issues could end up being complete non-issues.









From Anandtech AMD Demonstrates Stacked 3D V-Cache Technology: 192 MB at 2 TB/sec



LiquidHaus said:


> I will say that I love to hear that they'll be retaining the exact AM4 dimensions for coolers moving forward with their new AM5 socket, though! Same Z-axis too, which means compatibility straight across generations. Love it.


Yup. Definitely agree with you there. The Optimus block working on the 12900K was a definite blessing. AMD has generally been much better at stretching out platforms. Nice to know blocks will be included in that now.


----------



## sakete

LiquidHaus said:


> Nice choice my friend! I've definitely been enjoying my 5950X. Yeah these being in Spring, I wonder if different core counts will come out at different times, since like you said the 5950X3D wasn't teased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed, we gotta wait for benchmarks. I'm curious about the die layout since as of right now, the L3 cache sits next to the actual cores. I seriously doubt they'd stack this new 3D cache on top of the cores themselves.
> 
> I will say that I love to hear that they'll be retaining the exact AM4 dimensions for coolers moving forward with their new AM5 socket, though! Same Z-axis too, which means compatibility straight across generations. Love it.


Oh for real, AM4 blocks will work on AM5? So I can in theory use my Optimus block for 5 more years or so if my next upgrade is again AMD (I'll move to Intel if they're better, I'm brand agnostic).

This is awesome news though.

I otherwise bet that if a 5950x3D does get released it'll be $900+. Picking up the current 5950X at $720 was a sweet deal.


----------



## Sir Beregond

HyperMatrix said:


> You guys aren't worried at all about thermals with 3D V-Cache? It sits on top of the regular die. Makes for compact packaging. But also adds layers between the die and ihs. They had to lower the base and boost clocks of the new CPU, seemingly as a result of that.


I am wondering about that myself - definitely due to the layers added as you say. Will that negatively impact thermals in worse than expected ways, will it work out ok? Remains to be seen. I assume they wanted to keep it within the same power targets as the regular 5800X hence the lowered clocks. I'll be interested to see how this plays out in real world testing and benchmarks. I'd be interested in picking up a 5800X3D if it works out ok, and isn't a total hotbox. I never did get around to building my new rig yet this past year so still have an unopened 5600X sitting around. Wouldn't mind swapping that if its warranted enough since I don't plan to build again for many years. Would probably tide me over better.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Oh for real, AM4 blocks will work on AM5? So I can in theory use my Optimus block for 5 more years or so if my next upgrade is again AMD (I'll move to Intel if they're better, I'm brand agnostic).
> 
> This is awesome news though.
> 
> I otherwise bet that if a 5950x3D does get released it'll be $900+. Picking up the current 5950X at $720 was a sweet deal.


I think you guys will jump on new blocks. Remember Optimus Sig V3 (Amd/intel), Watercool CPU V also. The group here can’t resist the upgrade.

I’m pretty sure 2024/2025 im going to just replace whole waterloop myself. Hopefully new stuff will be out. I do intend to replace my Mo-Ra3 420 by then. Looking at diy external rads (using watercool 560 or optimus rads) or update Mo-Ra3 (in r&d)


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> I think you guys will jump on new blocks. Remember Optimus Sig V3 (Amd/intel), Watercool CPU V also. The group here can’t resist the upgrade.
> 
> I’m pretty sure 2024/2025 im going to just replace whole waterloop myself. Hopefully new stuff will be out. I do intend to replace my Mo-Ra3 420 by then. Looking at diy external rads (using watercool 560 or optimus rads) or update Mo-Ra3 (in r&d)


What, us folk in this thread jump on new blocks? No.... 

If there is indeed a potential Caselabs revival in the works, I'll move everything over into a new case and redo the whole loop. Or that new Lian Li V3000 whenever it comes out. Oh, and let's add some Watercool rads, or Optimus if they're any good. Just don't like my current Phanteks case that much.

And well, if there's a significant performance bump with a new Optimus block, then I'd consider it. If not, I'll stick to the AM4 Foundation.

But I got the 5950X so I can ride out AM4 for the next 3 years and will see what's on the market then, and what is the best.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> What, us folk in this thread jump on new blocks? No....
> 
> If there is indeed a potential Caselabs revival in the works, I'll move everything over into a new case and redo the whole loop. Or that new Lian Li V3000 whenever it comes out. Oh, and let's add some Watercool rads, or Optimus if they're any good. Just don't like my current Phanteks case that much.
> 
> And well, if there's a significant performance bump with a new Optimus block, then I'd consider it. If not, I'll stick to the AM4 Foundation.
> 
> But I got the 5950X so I can ride out AM4 for the next 3 years and will see what's on the market then, and what is the best.


I agree with you. I actually am looking at v3000+ option again as very enticing opportunity for my caselabs have emerged. Enough for me to consider parting with it.


----------



## GhostR1der

Anyone got a Signature Kingpin 3090 GPU Block from Optimus? If yes, how long did it take to receive the product after the order placement and how's fitment? Also curious to know if it fits EVGA Z490 Dark Motherboard.


----------



## dng25

GhostR1der said:


> Anyone got a Signature Kingpin 3090 GPU Block from Optimus? If yes, how long did it take to receive the product after the order placement and how's fitment? Also curious to know if it fits EVGA Z490 Dark Motherboard.


If you haven't placed an order yet probably another 6 months.


----------



## sakete

Man, I just absolutely love quick disconnects. Swapping out my CPU took only 20 mins, and no need to drain the whole loop  I'll never go to hard tubing, just too much hassle.

Now I need to figure out what the best settings are for this 5950X on my Asus board. Oh joy


----------



## Biggu

dng25 said:


> If you haven't placed an order yet probably another 6 months.


what you mean, clearly with the 3090 ti coming out everyone is going to immediately drop everything and go to that. /s. On a more serious note, probably going to have a few people that do actually want to go 3090ti kingpin so they will probably sell their block if you get lucky.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Biggu said:


> what you mean, clearly with the 3090 ti coming out everyone is going to immediately drop everything and go to that. /s. On a more serious note, probably going to have a few people that do actually want to go 3090ti kingpin so they will probably sell their block if you get lucky.


If the 3090 Ti KingPin fit on the Optimus block...I may have considered it in this market where you can literally profit by buying new at MSRP (if you can) and selling your old card at market prices. But what's the point of a potentially slightly better card with no cooling available, making it actually worse? And by the time a block does come out for it, the 4000 series will likely be out.


----------



## LiquidHaus

HyperMatrix said:


> If the 3090 Ti KingPin fit on the Optimus block...I may have considered it in this market where you can literally profit by buying new at MSRP (if you can) and selling your old card at market prices. But what's the point of a potentially slightly better card with no cooling available, making it actually worse? And by the time a block does come out for it, the 4000 series will likely be out.


This. 

I find it actually hilarious that Vince redesigned the PCB completely for a dang Ti variant. Because of course he did! That means more money to make on literally every aspect of the card. I'd be willing to bet money that they had no intention of a 3090Ti until they saw how many not so smart decisions were made by countless people by the thousands, purchasing the top tier Nvidia card for WELL over MSRP. You don't have to be a rocket scientist to see the cash cow sitting right in front of you if you're a video card manufacturer. Not to mention that they right off the bat said that the MSRP will be more than before. Because of courseeee!!!! The thing is only gonna be like 2-5% faster than our 3090 KP's. RIDICULOUS.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

As long as they don’t nerf the 3090 im any way, disable bios swapping in drivers, or add new software features to the 3090ti (DLSS Super) and lock it out of the 3090, I’m still getting the performance I paid for. I’ve been enjoying my 3090 KP for over a year and my Hydrocopper block for almost a year. If the 3090ti is LHR, even better.


----------



## dng25

Biggu said:


> what you mean, clearly with the 3090 ti coming out everyone is going to immediately drop everything and go to that. /s. On a more serious note, probably going to have a few people that do actually want to go 3090ti kingpin so they will probably sell their block if you get lucky.


Probably wouldn't have any problem breaking even on any of the kingpin especially with a optimus waterblock. 3090 ti kingpin is gonna have the same supply issue so i'd doubt many will get it until at least 6 months out.


----------



## doox00

My new build is coming along, pretty excited to get it finished. Doing rigid tubing, not sure if I want to do white or black petg, I bought both.. I think black may looks nice. I also bought both black and white fittings.


----------



## ciarlatano

doox00 said:


> My new build is coming along, pretty excited to get it finished. Doing rigid tubing, not sure if I want to do white or black petg, I bought both.. I think black may looks nice. I also bought both black and white fittings.
> 
> 
> View attachment 2541395


No fresh air intake? None?


----------



## doox00

ciarlatano said:


> No fresh air intake? None?


The whole back, the front and top are radiators blowing out of the case.


----------



## Avacado

doox00 said:


> The whole back, the front and top are radiators blowing out of the case.


Exactly.


----------



## sakete

doox00 said:


> The whole back, the front and top are radiators blowing out of the case.


Yeah, so you'll want at least one air inlet.

For example in my case I have 3x140 in front and 1x120 as bottom intake, my 360 and 480 rads as intake (better to blow colder outside air on rads), and a 140 rear fan as exhaust.


----------



## doox00

sakete said:


> Yeah, so you'll want at least one air inlet.
> 
> For example in my case I have 3x140 in front and 1x120 as bottom intake, my 360 and 480 rads as intake (better to blow colder outside air on rads), and a 140 rear fan as exhaust.


Thanks for the input, I had planned to make the top radiator exhaust but the sl120 lian li fans don't look as good on the back side imo. I have some al120's but I don't care for the whole fan (fan blades) lighting up rgb. I will see how temps are and if need be I will change it around some.


----------



## sakete

doox00 said:


> Thanks for the input, I had planned to make the top radiator exhaust but the sl120 lian li fans don't look as good on the back side imo. I have some al120's but I don't care for the whole fan (fan blades) lighting up rgb. I will see how temps are and if need be I will change it around some.


Positive pressure is generally best inside the case. So more air coming in than going out. Also helps keep out dust. Your current setup creates a lot of negative pressure.


----------



## Avacado

doox00 said:


> Thanks for the input, I had planned to make the top radiator exhaust but the sl120 lian li fans don't look as good on the back side imo. I have some al120's but I don't care for the whole fan (fan blades) lighting up rgb. I will see how temps are and if need be I will change it around some.


Arrgeebee > Function


----------



## criskoe

doox00 said:


> The whole back, the front and top are radiators blowing out of the case.


So your really going to run no intakes? Weird!. You plan on always leaving the side panel off or something?


----------



## doox00

criskoe said:


> So your really going to run no intakes? Weird!. You plan on always leaving the side panel off or something?


I think the entire back counts as an intake, the entire back is open on the case.


----------



## Avacado

doox00 said:


> I think the entire back counts as an intake, the entire back is open on the case.


Back side? You mean behind the solid motherboard tray and POM reservoir that doesn't appear to allow for much air flow at all?


----------



## doox00

Avacado said:


> Back side? You mean behind the solid motherboard tray and POM reservoir that doesn't appear to allow for much air flow at all?


The opposite of the front of the case, the back of the case.. the entire back of the case is open.


----------



## Paramedic10

@LiquidHaus , I know another use also was asking recently, but did you wind up getting that ek backplate? And update on the mounting solutions for Optimus V2 on 1700?


----------



## doox00

Paramedic10 said:


> @LiquidHaus , I know another use also was asking recently, but did you wind up getting that ek backplate? And update on the mounting solutions for Optimus V2 on 1700?


I just used the ek backplate on my 12900k, the photo I posted up a few posts has the ek backplate on it. Only thing I had to do was use some longer M4 screws.


----------



## ciarlatano

doox00 said:


> I think the entire back counts as an intake, the entire back is open on the case.


----------



## Sir Beregond

doox00 said:


> Doing rigid tubing, not sure if I want to do white or black petg, I bought both..


Others have mentioned the exhaust/intake thing so I'll leave it alone. 

I did have a question though.

Where did you find white PETG? I've been thinking about hardline for a while but I want to stick with clear X1 but still want colored tubing if I can.


----------



## Paramedic10

doox00 said:


> I just used the ek backplate on my 12900k, the photo I posted up a few posts has the ek backplate on it. Only thing I had to do was use some longer M4 screws.


Oh, that's pretty neat. So you used your V2 with the EK backplate and just got longer M4 screws? I bet this will solve the mounting pressure issue.

Is this what you used?








EK-Quantum Velocity Backplate - LGA1700


EK-Quantum Velocity Backplate - LGA1700 is a backplate for EK-Quantum Velocity water blocks that allows them to be mounted on the new motherboards based on the Intel LGA 1700 socket. This is the only product required to convert your EK-Quantum Velocity CPU water block to an LGA-1700 compatible...




www.ekwb.com





Thanks!


----------



## doox00

Sir Beregond said:


> Others have mentioned the exhaust/intake thing so I'll leave it alone.
> 
> I did have a question though.
> 
> Where did you find white PETG? I've been thinking about hardline for a while but I want to stick with clear X1 but still want colored tubing if I can.


I understand the intake/exhaust suggestions, what I don't get is how some aren't understanding the entire back of the case is open to outside air, there will be more than enough fresh air being brought into the case. It may not give the absolute best performance but for my needs it will be more than enough and if not I can change it. 

Curious if anyone knows if you can reverse the positive and negative fan wires to make it spin the other way?

This is the tubing I bought from performance-pcs.









Monsoon PETG Hardline Tube 1/2 x 5/8 - 36" 4 Pack - White


PETG Hardline from Monsoon allows you to route your tube runs exactly where you want them and eliminates all those unsightly and expensive adapters, tube coils, etc. for the cleanest, most economical loop installations.




www.performance-pcs.com


----------



## doox00

Paramedic10 said:


> Oh, that's pretty neat. So you used your V2 with the EK backplate and just got longer M4 screws? I bet this will solve the mounting pressure issue.
> 
> Is this what you used?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK-Quantum Velocity Backplate - LGA1700
> 
> 
> EK-Quantum Velocity Backplate - LGA1700 is a backplate for EK-Quantum Velocity water blocks that allows them to be mounted on the new motherboards based on the Intel LGA 1700 socket. This is the only product required to convert your EK-Quantum Velocity CPU water block to an LGA-1700 compatible...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ekwb.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Yep, performance-pcs has them too for a penny, I bought a couple of them for mine and my wifes new builds. I used M4 screws, which screw into the ek backplate (its threaded), install that on the back of the motherboard and then I made little plastic washers to go on the m4 screws onto the motherboard and screwed m4 nuts down onto the washers/motherboard to hold the back plate on. Not sure the plastic washers were needed but did not want to mess up the motherboard just in case. The block slides right on and use the hardware that comes with the V2 to hold it down.


----------



## Avacado

doox00 said:


> I understand the intake/exhaust suggestions, what I don't get is how some aren't understanding the entire back of the case is open to outside air, there will be more than enough fresh air being brought into the case. It may not give the absolute best performance but for my needs it will be more than enough and if not I can change it.
> 
> This is the tubing I bought from performance-pcs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monsoon PETG Hardline Tube 1/2 x 5/8 - 36" 4 Pack - White
> 
> 
> PETG Hardline from Monsoon allows you to route your tube runs exactly where you want them and eliminates all those unsightly and expensive adapters, tube coils, etc. for the cleanest, most economical loop installations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com


I hate to break it to you, but the traditional "Back" of the case is where your PCI slots are. In your case, it is enclosed. Do you mean the SIDE is open?


----------



## doox00

Avacado said:


> I hate to break it to you, but the traditional "Back" of the case is where your PCI slots are. In your case, it is enclosed. Do you mean the SIDE is open?


Yeah, the back of the case, where the pci slots/mb io are.. that entire back is perforated, pci slot area and above etc, about 2/3 of the entire back of the case will allow fresh air in. The gpu will be vertical mounted and is the only thing that will be installed on the back. The case is a 7000D, so large case with lots of area.


----------



## Avacado

doox00 said:


> Yeah, the back of the case, where the pci slots are.. that entire back is perforated, pci slot area and above etc, about 2/3 of the entire back of the case will allow fresh air in. The gpu will be vertical mounted and is the only thing that will be installed on the back. The case is a 7000D, so large case with lots of area.


This will be the last thing I swear. You are saying that you will be running 7 exhaust fans, putting your side panels on and are calling the honeycomb perforations "sufficient" intake airflow?


----------



## Section31

doox00 said:


> I just used the ek backplate on my 12900k, the photo I posted up a few posts has the ek backplate on it. Only thing I had to do was use some longer M4 screws.


What was the temperature difference. I got the watercool backplate, mount and spring coming myself


----------



## doox00

Avacado said:


> This will be the last thing I swear. You are saying that you will be running 7 exhaust fans, putting your side panels on and are calling the honeycomb perforations "sufficient" intake airflow?



They are pretty large holes, each of those round shapes are about the size of a dime and that is a 140mm fan.


----------



## Avacado

doox00 said:


> They are pretty large holes, each of those round shapes are about the size of a dime and that is a 140mm fan.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2541453


You are right, it is a 140mm fan blowing air out of the case, not in. Hey I wish you the best. If your temps become high, you won't have to ask why. Just flip the fans.

The white really is a beautiful build.


----------



## doox00

Section31 said:


> What was the temperature difference. I got the watercool backplate, mount and spring coming myself


Have no reference, just opened the gpu, cpu, water blocks, motherboard etc last night as I started the build and have another day or two until its complete I would guess as long as I have enough fittings and all the bends go okay. I knew the V2 did not have a backplate from reading this thread so wanted to be sure I had one to install.


----------



## doox00

Avacado said:


> You are right, it is a 140mm fan blowing air out of the case, not in. Hey I wish you the best. If your temps become high, you won't have to ask why. Just flip the fans.
> 
> The white really is a beautiful build.


Yeah, that is why I asked if you can swap the positive and negative wires in the plug of the fan to reverse the direction, I don't want the back of the fans facing in. If not I will just remove the fan and have passive intake. And yep if the temps suck I will get new fans to replace the ones on the radiators.


----------



## doox00

in stock atm if anyone is looking



https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/DOMINATOR-PLATINUM-RGB-DDR5-Memory---Black/p/CMT32GX5M2X5600C36


----------



## Dreams-Visions

Any pics of an installed KPE block up and running?


----------



## dwolvin

About 3 pages back.


----------



## Dreams-Visions

dwolvin said:


> About 3 pages back.


Oh? I looked but don't see it. Was hoping for a completed build with the little baby screen on and everything.

I have a queue that just popped for a KPE and was trying to find a reason to not pick it up. I have a 3090 Strix on the Optimus block and I'm thinking I could sell it for a similar price to the new KPE, pick up the additional Optimus block for it. But I wanted to see how that setup would look.


----------



## sakete

doox00 said:


> Yeah, that is why I asked if you can swap the positive and negative wires in the plug of the fan to reverse the direction, I don't want the back of the fans facing in. If not I will just remove the fan and have passive intake. And yep if the temps suck I will get new fans to replace the ones on the radiators.


Reversing direction is not a good idea. Fan blades are optimized to blow in one direction. You wouldn't get the same performance characteristics by just reversing the spin direction.

And if your temps are too high, best to pull in outside air over the radiators. That air is colder, vs the air inside your case which is warmer.


----------



## dwolvin

Dreams-Visions said:


> Oh? I looked but don't see it. Was hoping for a completed build with the little baby screen on and everything.











Optimus Waterblock


I dont belive they ship everyday. I cant belive when they are not transparrent.




www.overclock.net




There is one (I think), much farther back than I thought. But there or a bit earlier.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Paramedic10 said:


> @LiquidHaus , I know another use also was asking recently, but did you wind up getting that ek backplate? And update on the mounting solutions for Optimus V2 on 1700?


Yeah I got two of them, though I haven't used them yet. I gotta tear down that Lian Li Evo case build first. I think it's worth snagging a backplate regardless though, and running it with whatever brand of whatever block you have!


----------



## Sir Beregond

doox00 said:


> This is the tubing I bought from performance-pcs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monsoon PETG Hardline Tube 1/2 x 5/8 - 36" 4 Pack - White
> 
> 
> PETG Hardline from Monsoon allows you to route your tube runs exactly where you want them and eliminates all those unsightly and expensive adapters, tube coils, etc. for the cleanest, most economical loop installations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com


Will take a look at sizes, but exactly what I am looking for, thank you.


----------



## HyperMatrix

doox00 said:


> My new build is coming along, pretty excited to get it finished. Doing rigid tubing, not sure if I want to do white or black petg, I bought both.. I think black may looks nice. I also bought both black and white fittings.
> 
> 
> View attachment 2541395


Listen to what people have been telling you. Your fans will still spin. But you'll get sub-par airflow. On top of that, you'll have high negative pressure inside the case because your exhaust fans are trying to push out air at a higher rate than what can be easily pulled in from those holes. So you'll have your fans over working themselves, and for less performance. I have 16 intake fans and 14 exhaust fans. And even in that setup, my flow and temps are greatly improved by opening the side of the case. By greatly improved I mean delta between water/ambient air of around 5C, which is massive. So less restrictive airflow is very important.

There's no point spending all that money on high end blocks if you're going to cripple your system's cooling performance simply because you prefer the look of your fans in one direction and not another. Perhaps looks are more important to you than performance. In that case you'd be justified. But if looks were your primary motive, I'd question why you didn't build in a white case. At the end of the day it's completely up to you and you don't have to justify your actions to any of us. As long as you're aware that you've intentionally built a sub-optimal cooling system, and you're OK with it, then it doesn't matter what anyone else says.


----------



## Dreams-Visions

dwolvin said:


> Optimus Waterblock
> 
> 
> I dont belive they ship everyday. I cant belive when they are not transparrent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is one (I think), much farther back than I thought. But there or a bit earlier.


tyvm! Something to consider, and only about 15 hours to consider it. We'll see. I don't mind stepping into it...I'm just not sure it'd be worth the inconvenience of having to buy (and wait) for a new Optimus block AND sell the 3090 Strix + Optimus block AND cut new tubes. For like a 1% or 2% increase in performance. 

I'd really be just to say I had a KPE. That's a lot of time and effort.


----------



## ciarlatano

doox00 said:


> Yeah, that is why I asked if you can swap the positive and negative wires in the plug of the fan to reverse the direction, I don't want the back of the fans facing in. If not I will just remove the fan and have passive intake. And yep if the temps suck I will get new fans to replace the ones on the radiators.


Ah, but Grasshopper, LEDs are directional and will not work if the positive and negative are reversed. And what is a fan that only moves air?


----------



## doox00

ciarlatano said:


> Ah, but Grasshopper, LEDs are directional and will not work if the positive and negative are reversed. And what is a fan that only moves air?


The led's have their own cable/power


----------



## doox00

HyperMatrix said:


> But if looks were your primary motive, I'd question why you didn't build in a white case.


Because I have done a few builds with all white components/case and white case black components etc and this time I wanted a black case with white components and so far, I prefer the looks of it over the all white builds. I used Optimus in this build because I liked the looks of the gpu block and liked the white cpu block. I have another build in the house with ek gpu/cpu blocks right now and yet another build with Watercool Heatkiller gpu/cpus blocks, so I wanted to do an Optimus build. Any block I would have chosen would have been more than adequate in cooling for my needs. I am not running cinebench 24/7 or anything like that. I don't argue the fact other fan configurations would probably have knocked the temps down some but for my use it will be sufficient and if not I will make some changes. Also this is not my first build with fans in this sort of configuration, my ek block build is a 5900x and a strix 3090 in a O11 XL (my flight sim rig) and temps are fine running msfs 2020 for hours at a time and that build has one pump 2 rads for cpu and gpu. This new build has two separate loops.


----------



## doox00

EK backplate with Optimus V2 on socket 1700. I used M4 30mm screws and M4 nuts on some plastic washers I made.


----------



## Section31

doox00 said:


> EK backplate with Optimus V2 on socket 1700. I used M4 30mm screws and M4 nuts on some plastic washers I made.
> 
> 
> View attachment 2541492
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2541493


Will test out with watercool mount too.


----------



## sakete

Will those EK back plates also work for AM4 foundation blocks (if I of course get the AM4 version)?

Yesterday I almost lost one of the nuts that attach to the back of the board for the Optimus mounting system. I think I'd like to have a backup in case that happens again.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Will those EK back plates also work for AM4 foundation blocks (if I of course get the AM4 version)?
> 
> Yesterday I almost lost one of the nuts that attach to the back of the board for the Optimus mounting system. I think I'd like to have a backup in case that happens again.


Optimus now uses amd backplate by default. Buy some of there alternatives mounting kits.


----------



## chibi

Heatkiller Rad 360-S

Prepping for the new build. I did a 24 hour white vinegar soak and caught a bunch of debris and the liquid that came out of the rads was almost opaque turquoise. I didn't think to get a picture when I emptied it but it was pretty nasty. On par with HWLabs GTX nasty from previous experience. I have some time to kill waiting on parts from Aquacomputer Germany and AliExpress so I'm going for an extended rad flush.

I followed up with Blitz 1 for another 6 hour soak. Emptied it into the catch container and even more stuff came out. Didn't grab pics since my gloves got a bit wet from the liquid so didn't bother with the phone.

Flushed the rads with distilled water 10x each and a little bit of stuff came out. I think we're good right? Nah, going to setup an external loop with an inline filter and go again with Blitz 2. Pic 1 shows the first min of the pump running. Pic 2 shows what came out overnight.

This morning I flushed the Blitz 2 and reversed the direction of flow and am running distilled water. I didn't clean the inline filter so I'm curious to see how much accumulates when the rest of my parts arrive. Going to keep flushing with the external loop and change out distilled/reverse flow direction every couple of days.


----------



## dwolvin

What's that? Filter only or filter whirligig?


----------



## chibi

Looks like it's been discontinued, but it's an Alphacool inline filter with flow indicator.



http://computerman.ro/monitorizare/216-flow-indicator-with-filter-g14-17104.html


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Heatkiller Rad 360-S
> 
> Prepping for the new build. I did a 24 hour white vinegar soak and caught a bunch of debris and the liquid that came out of the rads was almost opaque turquoise. I didn't think to get a picture when I emptied it but it was pretty nasty. On par with HWLabs GTX nasty from previous experience. I have some time to kill waiting on parts from Aquacomputer Germany and AliExpress so I'm going for an extended rad flush.
> 
> I followed up with Blitz 1 for another 6 hour soak. Emptied it into the catch container and even more stuff came out. Didn't grab pics since my gloves got a bit wet from the liquid so didn't bother with the phone.
> 
> Flushed the rads with distilled water 10x each and a little bit of stuff came out. I think we're good right? Nah, going to setup an external loop with an inline filter and go again with Blitz 2. Pic 1 shows the first min of the pump running. Pic 2 shows what came out overnight.
> 
> This morning I flushed the Blitz 2 and reversed the direction of flow and am running distilled water. I didn't clean the inline filter so I'm curious to see how much accumulates when the rest of my parts arrive. Going to keep flushing with the external loop and change out distilled/reverse flow direction every couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2541667
> 
> 
> View attachment 2541668


Optimus rads better be clean lol


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Optimus rads better be clean lol


Considering what they've claimed about process for cleaning rads, I would agree. Can't remember if it was ultrasonic or something.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Edge0fsanity

chibi said:


> Heatkiller Rad 360-S
> 
> Prepping for the new build. I did a 24 hour white vinegar soak and caught a bunch of debris and the liquid that came out of the rads was almost opaque turquoise. I didn't think to get a picture when I emptied it but it was pretty nasty. On par with HWLabs GTX nasty from previous experience. I have some time to kill waiting on parts from Aquacomputer Germany and AliExpress so I'm going for an extended rad flush.
> 
> I followed up with Blitz 1 for another 6 hour soak. Emptied it into the catch container and even more stuff came out. Didn't grab pics since my gloves got a bit wet from the liquid so didn't bother with the phone.
> 
> Flushed the rads with distilled water 10x each and a little bit of stuff came out. I think we're good right? Nah, going to setup an external loop with an inline filter and go again with Blitz 2. Pic 1 shows the first min of the pump running. Pic 2 shows what came out overnight.
> 
> This morning I flushed the Blitz 2 and reversed the direction of flow and am running distilled water. I didn't clean the inline filter so I'm curious to see how much accumulates when the rest of my parts arrive. Going to keep flushing with the external loop and change out distilled/reverse flow direction every couple of days.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2541667
> 
> 
> View attachment 2541668


I hate cleaning rads more than anything to the point it almost ruins this hobby. I have 4 heatkiller rads i bought for a new build back in October, 2 360-s and 2 360-l. They were all on par with HWL rads in terms of dirtiness. Did 24 hour vinegar soaks followed by shake and rinse with hot tap water, and then in a temp loop with a filter overnight. Fairly certain I didn't get it all out but I can only shake a rad so many times in a week before my arms feel like they're going to fall off. I'm going to transfer my existing build into a temp setup with my KPE now that I finally have the block with 2 inline filters. Hoping that will catch the rest while I work on the wiring over the next month or so without me having to clean blocks.


----------



## dwolvin

I don't know if it's that most of my early rads were used or just good luck, but I've never done more than warm water and vinegar + shake x2, and never had anything noticeable in the loop. Well, except the time I was assembling tired and stupid and blew out the block with my breath...


----------



## ciarlatano

dwolvin said:


> I don't know if it's that most of my early rads were used or just good luck, but I've never done more than warm water and vinegar + shake x2, and never had anything noticeable in the loop. Well, except the time I was assembling tired and stupid and blew out the block with my breath...


Same. The descriptions I see here are usually far beyond even what I went through with old Alphacool rads. Either every rad on the market is now far dirtier than anything made previously, or......well, let's use the word "overstated" for some recent descriptions.


----------



## chibi

Day two update, the filter looks the same as the first overnight. Most of what's left in the rads after vinegar + blitz 1 and 2 is now out. I don't feel like assembling the loop and leaving it dry until the rest of my parts come. Going to swap out another round of distilled and keep at it. That's probably it for my updates unless something big comes up.

External loop setup


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Might be me but I have the feeling people are waaaaaay overdoing it with this shaking,cleaning the rad 1 month because maybe a black 0,000001mm black thing will pop out?!

I didn’t do 90% what guys are saying they’re doing and just took 80% of the liquid out to fix something (RAM) and it didn’t have anything inside was clean as it could be! Reused that same distilled water and xt1 v2 and I’m back and running. No idea what’s all this cleaning and buying unnecessary stuff to get the last little bit out. You’ll never assemble your loop 😃 

ofc just my opinion you know what’s best for you


----------



## sakete

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Might be me but I have the feeling people are waaaaaay overdoing it with this shaking,cleaning the rad 1 month because maybe a black 0,000001mm black thing will pop out?!
> 
> I didn’t do 90% what guys are saying they’re doing and just took 80% of the liquid out to fix something (RAM) and it didn’t have anything inside was clean as it could be! Reused that same distilled water and xt1 v2 and I’m back and running. No idea what’s all this cleaning and buying unnecessary stuff to get the last little bit out. You’ll never assemble your loop
> 
> ofc just my opinion you know what’s best for you


Are you accusing people on OCN being anal about their setup? Because it sounds like you're accusing people of being anal about their setup.

People here would never get anal about their setup. I mean, I just swapped a 5950X 3 times to get a good sample. That's not anal.


----------



## Sir Beregond

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Might be me but I have the feeling people are waaaaaay overdoing it with this shaking,cleaning the rad 1 month because maybe a black 0,000001mm black thing will pop out?!
> 
> I didn’t do 90% what guys are saying they’re doing and just took 80% of the liquid out to fix something (RAM) and it didn’t have anything inside was clean as it could be! Reused that same distilled water and xt1 v2 and I’m back and running. No idea what’s all this cleaning and buying unnecessary stuff to get the last little bit out. You’ll never assemble your loop 😃
> 
> ofc just my opinion you know what’s best for you


Yeah there is definitely a point of diminished returns. I would also be curious if overdoing vinegar and Blitz part 1 is eating into materials?


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

You're doing all this stuff and we all know in 5 months most of us will be taking everything apart and buying the next new shiny thing! 

I assembled my pc around 4 months ago,all I did was use coke. Filled the 2 rads completely with coke,let it overnight in the morning let hot water (tap water) run for 10min to clean it good.Afterwards I used distilled water to clean the tap water out ,shook it normally nothing special (did this step 2 times),took per rad what 5 min and assembled my pc.
4 days ago I had a BIOS issue and had to take 80% of the liquid out so I can get to my RAM,drained it in a clean bottle and I was curios what will be inside? Guess what,absolutely nothing! Not a single thing except pure clean distilled water with Mayhem's XT-1 V2...that's it nothing special no extra crap...Like the guy said we can all be extra anal but at some point it becomes foolish!
Plus in all honesty if the CPU or anything gets clogged with stuff after a year I'm not going to clean that **** I'll spend $60 and buy a new replacement block and done! We buy $3000 GPU's and then start being anal about some $60-70 new block,ehhh no if it holds 1 year which it will 1000% I'm good


----------



## sakete

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> You're doing all this stuff and we all know in 5 months most of us will be taking everything apart and buying the next new shiny thing!
> 
> I assembled my pc around 4 months ago,all I did was use coke. Filled the 2 rads completely with coke,let it overnight in the morning let hot water (tap water) run for 10min to clean it good.Afterwards I used distilled water to clean the tap water out ,shook it normally nothing special (did this step 2 times),took per rad what 5 min and assembled my pc.
> 4 days ago I had a BIOS issue and had to take 80% of the liquid out so I can get to my RAM,drained it in a clean bottle and I was curios what will be inside? Guess what,absolutely nothing! Not a single thing except pure clean distilled water with Mayhem's XT-1 V2...that's it nothing special no extra crap...Like the guy said we can all be extra anal but at some point it becomes foolish!
> Plus in all honesty if the CPU or anything gets clogged with stuff after a year I'm not going to clean that **** I'll spend $60 and buy a new replacement block and done! We buy $3000 GPU's and then start being anal about some $60-70 new block,ehhh no if it holds 1 year which it will 1000% I'm good


I put this system together about a year go, for the second or third time, as I needed to put the Optimus 3080 block in the loop. I haven't looked at it since, other than checking there's enough fluid left in the res. And then I have quick disconnects for cpu and gpu blocks, so I can easily move things around to get to some components (like me swapping my 5950X 3 times this week). I hope to not have to look at the system for another 3 years  dealing with the loop itself is a pain.


----------



## Sir Beregond

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> You're doing all this stuff and we all know in 5 months most of us will be taking everything apart and buying the next new shiny thing!


Not in this market. Well maybe that's just me...


----------



## iamjanco

Sir Beregond said:


> Not in this market. Well maybe that's just me...


You're not alone...


----------



## Avacado

iamjanco said:


> You're not alone...


----------



## Avacado

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Might be me but I have the feeling people are waaaaaay overdoing it with this shaking,cleaning the rad 1 month because maybe a black 0,000001mm black thing will pop out?!
> 
> I didn’t do 90% what guys are saying they’re doing and just took 80% of the liquid out to fix something (RAM) and it didn’t have anything inside was clean as it could be! Reused that same distilled water and xt1 v2 and I’m back and running. No idea what’s all this cleaning and buying unnecessary stuff to get the last little bit out. You’ll never assemble your loop 😃
> 
> ofc just my opinion you know what’s best for you


You sound like a single DDC owner.

Have you ever seen Chibi's builds?


----------



## iamjanco

Avacado said:


> View attachment 2542022


now why'd ya have to go and do that and spoil my fun?

i thought we were buddies.

(look out your kitchen window for the guy in the mask)


----------



## Avacado

iamjanco said:


> now why'd ya have to go and do that and spoil my fun?
> 
> i thought we were buddies.
> 
> (look out your kitchen window for the guy in the mask)












Good night old man.


----------



## iamjanco

U2.

you'll miss me when i'm dust in the wind.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Avacado said:


> You sound like a single DDC owner.
> 
> Have you ever seen Chibi's builds?


What are you talking about DDC???

I just like watercooling builds so I come to see what’s going on,I’m running my build on air not to mention some DDC thing haha I like you you’re funny and somewhat dumb but that’s not a bad thing!


----------



## Avacado

Someone that has never watercooled not understanding Flux clogs. Shocker. Awww, can we keep him as a pet fellas?


----------



## iamjanco

Avacado said:


> Someone that has never watercooled not understanding Flux clogs. Shocker. Awww, can we keep him as a pet fellas?


my eyes must be going bad; did i just read _Fux dogs?_ isn't that a poor reason to keep him as a pet?

*cough...*

Heard in a back alley bar:_ I'm old, what's your excuse?_


----------



## Avacado

iamjanco said:


> my eyes must be going bad; did i just read _Fux dogs?_ isn't that a poor reason to keep him as a pet?
> 
> *cough...*


Your eyes aren't going bad. You remembered he posted a build as his, but clearly was taken from someone else. I definitely want him as a pet now.


----------



## acoustic

Avacado said:


> Your eyes aren't going bad. You remembered he posted a build as his, but clearly was taken from someone else. I definitely want him as a pet now.


He has an Optimus STRIX block, doesn't he? I'm pretty sure he was trolling when he said he was on air.

I hope someone wouldn't lie for absolutely no reason.


----------



## iamjanco

Avacado said:


> Your eyes aren't going bad. You remembered he posted a build as his, but clearly was taken from someone else. I definitely want him as a pet now.


ahhhhhhh..., I see! 

but I really don't.

as for sharing pix of someone else's build, naw, not so sure he did that. he's awkwardly strange different for a canook, but there's a strong likelihood the build is his.


----------



## ciarlatano

Avacado said:


> Your eyes aren't going bad. You remembered he posted a build as his, but clearly was taken from someone else. I definitely want him as a pet now.


Actually, given the course of events and posts, I would wager the build is his. He's needlessly abrasive at times and suggests spending like a drunken sailor, but is knowledgeable and consistent.


----------



## iamjanco

ciarlatano said:


> He's needlessly abrasive at times and suggests spending like a drunken sailor, but is knowledgeable and consistent.


Maybe he is a drunken sailor?

@Dhoulmagus 



Spoiler: Barnacle Bill?



before betty boop, there was...


----------



## Avacado

ciarlatano said:


> Actually, given the course of events and posts, I would wager the build is his. He's needlessly abrasive at times and suggests spending like a drunken sailor, but is knowledgeable and consistent.


Is quite a beautiful build. Glad to know there is at least one abrasive Canadian out there.


----------



## Sir Beregond

iamjanco said:


> Maybe he is a drunken sailor?
> 
> @Dhoulmagus
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Barnacle Bill?
> 
> 
> 
> before betty boop, there was...


Well it is early in the mornin'. What should we do with him?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

When he said 1 DDC pump I was like “*** am I suppossed to say to that“ so I just went with I’m on air…

Yea that’s my build and as you can see I’m pretty anal about aesthetics,I cut all the tubes and then sanded them like no tomorrow so I can spray paint says how much time I’ve spent on it.
I love the fact just a simple joke/troll and immediately it’s not your build it’s stolen,that was funny not going to lie! 🙂



























EDIT : The thing that pisses me off the most is that ****ty little air bubble in the optimus reservoir. I’ve trued everything,shaking,turning you name it and it’s always there but everything else is pretty much done I’d say. Except when the V3000+ comes out might grab that and redo the build,but that’s depending on my mood and willingness to take everything down again and make new tubes. Sanding them down is a b***ch honestly
Also wish those dumb ****s of OPTIMUS weren’t as ****ty as they are regarding everything except quality I’d buy a new replacement matte black cerakote Strix block to make it completely matte black but the way they acted and pissed me off for no reason I’m not in the mood giving them any more money.


----------



## Sir Beregond

iamjanco said:


> Maybe he is a drunken sailor?





Sir Beregond said:


> Well it is early in the mornin'. What should we do with him?












Nothin'. I am disappointed.

Let me go find my rusty razor...


----------



## iamjanco

^Man shall not live by OCN responses alone, but by every word that proceedeth out of the mouth of __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ (fill in the blank*).

*Note: see the BF 2042 thread for ideas.


----------



## Avacado

iamjanco said:


> ^Man shall not live by OCN responses alone, but by every word that proceedeth out of the mouth of __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ (fill in the blank*).
> 
> *Note: see the BF 2042 thread for ideas.


----------



## chibi

Lol I love Forest Whitaker. Every post he makes I can't help but laugh. He's like the perfect company for a backyard bbq with drinks on tap. 

As for the comment of way over doing it, that's just me. My results show the amount of crap still left in the rads after vinegar and blitz and distilled flushing. You can't make this up. I'm not in the business to run through builds every year, so I try to make it last and looks the best it can for the time period of 2-3 years.

At the end of the day, it just comes down to you do you and I'll do me. Read whatever comes up in this thread for the chuckles and take in what it's worth and move on. We all share a common hobby so there's no need to break each other's necks.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> When he said 1 DDC pump I was like “*** am I suppossed to say to that“ so I just went with I’m on air…
> 
> Yea that’s my build and as you can see I’m pretty anal about aesthetics,I cut all the tubes and then sanded them like no tomorrow so I can spray paint says how much time I’ve spent on it.
> I love the fact just a simple joke/troll and immediately it’s not your build it’s stolen,that was funny not going to lie! 🙂
> 
> View attachment 2542099
> 
> View attachment 2542095
> 
> View attachment 2542097
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT : The thing that pisses me off the most is that ****ty little air bubble in the optimus reservoir. I’ve trued everything,shaking,turning you name it and it’s always there but everything else is pretty much done I’d say. Except when the V3000+ comes out might grab that and redo the build,but that’s depending on my mood and willingness to take everything down again and make new tubes. Sanding them down is a b***ch honestly
> Also wish those dumb ****s of OPTIMUS weren’t as ****ty as they are regarding everything except quality I’d buy a new replacement matte black cerakote Strix block to make it completely matte black but the way they acted and pissed me off for no reason I’m not in the mood giving them any more money.


Reservoirs need a little air to handle the pressure changes when your loop expands and contracts from temperature changes. This is especially true for hardline builds.


----------



## Sir Beregond

geriatricpollywog said:


> Reservoirs need a little air to handle the pressure changes when your loop expands and contracts from temperature changes. This is especially true for hardline builds.


Yeah, looking at that pic, you absolutely want to have a little air in the res...


----------



## HyperMatrix

Avacado said:


> Glad to know there is at least one abrasive Canadian out there.


It's you damn Easterners ruining our image. Haha.


----------



## dwolvin

Might just be D-Gens...


----------



## LiquidHaus

this thread looks like the comment section of a reddit post that went off the rails


----------



## dwolvin

Rail? Where we are going we don't need rails!


But you are not wrong.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

My day today

Saw a guy today selling a KPE 3090 for $4400cad. (Kijiji)
So I nicely asked him “Heyho,I’ll give you $3500 plus my fav very very rare Pokemon card that you can easily resell for $1600cad…”…mofo goes like “No,I have many offers over $4500”.
Hmmm so when I asked him “So how come it’s there for 10 days already if you apparently have so many offers you dumb weasel?”
Then he gets pissed because I called out his bs and probably because of the “dumb weasel”,starts with **** how I can’t even afford a card like this (typical bs they always pull) like nobody can afford anything because everyone is poor or desperate.
So I asked him is he 100% sure about that and if he wants to bet his card on it because you don’t just throw **** like that around without being able to back it up?!

This is were it gets ugly…Probably didn’t think anyone will really counter that crap then proceeds to say “Bruuuh I f….ed your hoe mom,she wasn’t even that great. She needs to suck d…better so she can give you enough money to afford a card like this”…already the “bruuuhh” tells you everything.
I just said “It’s a shame that you’re insulting my mom because I don’t have parents,I’m like Peter Parker (Spiderman)[which is a lie ofc],again if you really think I can’t afford to pay you $4500 lets bet that card on it!”

Curious to see what he’ll answer,Kijiji is pure cancer literally everyone uses the same 2-3 bs sentences. Bunch of wannabe gangsters that can’t get 2 sentences together trying to rip people off. I wouldn’t even buy it for $3500 not to mention $4500 from a dumb idiot. Even tho I could if I really wanted to.
Honestly if the ads up already there 10+ days that means at that price there aren’t any buyers,same as the $3800 Strix 3090 cards,you’d think he/she/it whatever it identifies as would slowly start lowering the price but no f….ing way. It’s head to the brick he has that $4500 in his head and he’ll hold it for 5 years. Hilarious


----------



## dwolvin

Huh, I learned something new today- Kijiji sounds northern EU to me, not Canadian. But yeah, I'll upgrade when I can get a card for about MSRP. To hell with the scalpers.


----------



## Sir Beregond

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> My day today
> 
> Saw a guy today selling a KPE 3090 for $4400cad. (Kijiji)
> So I nicely asked him “Heyho,I’ll give you $3500 plus my fav very very rare Pokemon card that you can easily resell for $1600cad…”…mofo goes like “No,I have many offers over $4500”.
> Hmmm so when I asked him “So how come it’s there for 10 days already if you apparently have so many offers you dumb weasel?”
> Then he gets pissed because I called out his bs and probably because of the “dumb weasel”,starts with **** how I can’t even afford a card like this (typical bs they always pull) like nobody can afford anything because everyone is poor or desperate.
> So I asked him is he 100% sure about that and if he wants to bet his card on it because you don’t just throw **** like that around without being able to back it up?!
> 
> This is were it gets ugly…Probably didn’t think anyone will really counter that crap then proceeds to say “Bruuuh I f….ed your hoe mom,she wasn’t even that great. She needs to suck d…better so she can give you enough money to afford a card like this”…already the “bruuuhh” tells you everything.
> I just said “It’s a shame that you’re insulting my mom because I don’t have parents,I’m like Peter Parker (Spiderman)[which is a lie ofc],again if you really think I can’t afford to pay you $4500 lets bet that card on it!”
> 
> Curious to see what he’ll answer,Kijiji is pure cancer literally everyone uses the same 2-3 bs sentences. Bunch of wannabe gangsters that can’t get 2 sentences together trying to rip people off. I wouldn’t even buy it for $3500 not to mention $4500 from a dumb idiot. Even tho I could if I really wanted to.
> Honestly if the ads up already there 10+ days that means at that price there aren’t any buyers,same as the $3800 Strix 3090 cards,you’d think he/she/it whatever it identifies as would slowly start lowering the price but no f….ing way. It’s head to the brick he has that $4500 in his head and he’ll hold it for 5 years. Hilarious


Sounds like one of those 12 year olds on Xbox I hear about. If an adult, should be ashamed of their vocabulary.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Every single conversation on Kijiji here in Canada (atleast Ontario) is pretty much like this!

It's always either you're broke and can't afford something or if you are selling you're desperate and will sell for any price he tells you to sell for.
Yes I have money that I can pretty much afford to pay for it,but that doesn't mean I'll buy for whatever price you want! Plus I'd never buy scalper prices,hell even when I sell something and it's used or new it's always below what others are selling for. Considering for how much over msrp you're selling you have absolutely no space for any foul language or insults! You have to be lucky and thankful that you found a idiot who'll even consider buying it and not you acting like you're 10 levels above everyone else???
I'm telling you go back in 10 days he'll still have that same listing for the same price or even $200 more,I've been on kijiji for 2 years and it's always the same. 

@Sir Beregond 

"If an adult, should be ashamed of their vocabulary."
When I see "bruhhh'..."yo,bro" that's pretty much it for me! I can't stand when somebody uses bruhhhhh or wants to sell something and his/her answers are a 1 or 2 word reply. **** off


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> this thread looks like the comment section of a reddit post that went off the rails


There’s nothing else to talk about so it goes off the rails lol. Just quiet time in pc building world - not enough new stuff to focus on. Ocn gotten more of the reddit type users over last year or so.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Sounds like one of those 12 year olds on Xbox I hear about. If an adult, should be ashamed of their vocabulary.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


That guy is great for the humor here. Something else to talk about lol.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Huh, I learned something new today- Kijiji sounds northern EU to me, not Canadian. But yeah, I'll upgrade when I can get a card for about MSRP. To hell with the scalpers.


I think most of the resale market is like that now. Either not properly researched and going by popular keywords or not worth even talking with.


----------



## iamjanco

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> @Sir Beregond
> 
> "If an adult, should be ashamed of their vocabulary."
> When I see "bruhhh'..."yo,bro" that's pretty much it for me! I can't stand when somebody uses bruhhhhh or wants to sell something and his/her answers are a 1 or 2 word reply. **** off


It's the _Brawndo _effect (it's like lead poisoning). People have been drinking it for decades now; builds up in the body, often over months or years.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

iamjanco said:


> It's the _Brawndo _effect (it's like lead poisoning). People have been drinking it for decades now; builds up in the body, often over months or years.


😂🤣


Last year around this time end of January I was selling my PS4 Pro. At that time here in Toronto it was going between $350 and $500,between it was mostly damaged crap or missing stuff. I was thinking that ****’s like what 8 years old I can’t sell it for that much,it’s reta**ed idk…so I put it up for $300 (tho even for that price I thought it’s to much for something 8 years old) mine was in mint condition because I’m extra anal about my stuff being clean and looking good!
So after posting the ad at around 6pm I get a message at around 10 15pm that night if I can lower the price for $25? Was thinking $25 is it even worth for him even mentioning $25? But whatever better sell it (in my head selling a overused PS4 for $275 was good) so I’m like “yeah,that’s fine”
About 1h later guy comes by (Indian guy,looks like he didn’t wash for 15 days and that’s me being nice!) at 11 30ish pm,gives me cash and I swear on everything I didn’t even properly sit back down mofo was reselling it for $350???

He had it there for around 3 months nobody wanted it, I mean was it really worth it hustling me down for $25,driving 50min at 11 30pm to ****ing wait 3 months to make a profit for $75 if he sold it for that price is a huge question?! Damn,you living in Toronto and scrambling $75 something ain’t going property in your life!


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, as I get older I realize most adults are not adults.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Blocked my KPE over the weekend and put it in the loop. Install went smooth with no flex in the PCB. Also took the chance to swap my build out of my inwin 925 and into a yuel beast atlas II kicking off the new build. Will be working on this into the summer I think. Had a little time to test and the thermals are excellent. 8C core/water delta at about 550w power draw. And this is with a not great flow rate of .8gpm. Discovered my new optimus res has a faulty pump that I can't read or control speed on it, suspect it only runs around 60-70% of max speed. Will replace it this weekend and retest, bet I gain another 1C off the core. Loop gets a 7C air/water delta with the fans maxed out, was hoping for closer to 5C. Thinking better fans will fix this problem as the lianli ones are crap performance.

Card is heavy at nearly 7.5lb


















Everything about this build is in flux, soft tube is temporary, fluid color was an experiment that didn't quite turn out, fans are getting replaced with something better, all wiring will be built from scratch and redone, leds on the block are the wrong color temp, etc. Mostly threw this together to get it up and running asap.


----------



## sakete

dwolvin said:


> Yeah, as I get older I realize most adults are not adults.


Most adults are just children in adult body suits.


----------



## Sir Beregond

iamjanco said:


> It's the _Brawndo _effect (it's like lead poisoning). People have been drinking it for decades now; builds up in the body, often over months or years.


I both love and hate this movie. Love it for what it is, hate it because its turning into reality.

Yeah I had a coworker once who was always just calling everyone his "bro brahhh". I have a hard time taking anyone seriously if bro is coming out of their mouth every sentence. More so if I don't even know you and you're calling me your "bro". I'm not your bro. I find it as annoying as people who use "like" every other word: "Like I went to the store and like went and got like coffee and like the cashier was super like nice."


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> I both love and hate this movie. Love it for what it is, hate it because its turning into reality.
> 
> Yeah I had a coworker once who was always just calling everyone his "bro brahhh". I have a hard time taking anyone seriously if bro is coming out of their mouth every sentence. More so if I don't even know you and you're calling me your "bro". I'm not your bro. I find it as annoying as people who use "like" every other word: "Like I went to the store and like went and got like coffee and like the cashier was super like nice."


Anyone else notice the increased amount of reddit like posts appearing on ocn?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Anyone else notice the increased amount of reddit like posts appearing on ocn?


Well-written and helpful?


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Anyone else notice the increased amount of reddit like posts appearing on ocn?


If this was really reddit, the water-cooling section would be full of recommendations for EK ZMT, Cryofuel, and don't bother prep/cleaning your loop. Also everyone is using an O11-D right?


----------



## Section31

geriatricpollywog said:


> Well-written and helpful?


I sure hope so


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> If this was really reddit, the water-cooling section would be full of recommendations for EK ZMT, Cryofuel, and don't bother prep/cleaning your loop. Also everyone is using an O11-D right?


Lot more than in the past lol.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Section31 said:


> Anyone else notice the increased amount of reddit like posts appearing on ocn?



You're talking about reddit like it's a bad thing?!
Didn't you meet me on reddit and opened up a conversation there with me,isn't that a beautiful thing? 😂


I'm European and in all honesty that word "BRUHHHH" really kills my ear,whenever I hear somebody say or write BRUHHH it's pretty much **** off from me. Since I came back here to North America I haven't seen or heard anything smart or not braindead from somebody who used bruhhh or bro every second sentence. Idk might be just me but I cringe whenever I hear bruhhhh especially when we met literally 2 days ago.


----------



## KedarWolf

Sir Beregond said:


> I both love and hate this movie. Love it for what it is, hate it because its turning into reality.
> 
> Yeah I had a coworker once who was always just calling everyone his "bro brahhh". I have a hard time taking anyone seriously if bro is coming out of their mouth every sentence. More so if I don't even know you and you're calling me your "bro". I'm not your bro. I find it as annoying as people who use "like" every other word: "Like I went to the store and like went and got like coffee and like the cashier was super like nice."


When I'm riding the bus and someone is talking and saying 'like' in every sentence, I always have to fight a really strong urge to tell them to shut the **** up.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> You're talking about reddit like it's a bad thing?!
> Didn't you meet me on reddit and opened up a conversation there with me,isn't that a beautiful thing? 😂
> 
> 
> I'm European and in all honesty that word "BRUHHHH" really kills my ear,whenever I hear somebody say or write BRUHHH it's pretty much **** off from me. Since I came back here to North America I haven't seen or heard anything smart or not braindead from somebody who used bruhhh or bro every second sentence. Idk might be just me but I cringe whenever I hear bruhhhh especially when we met literally 2 days ago.


You really are funny lol. Can make discussion out of anything.


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> When I'm riding the bus and someone is talking and saying 'like' in every sentence, I always have to fight a really strong urge to tell them to shut the **** up.


Canadian passive agressiveness at our best. We appear all nice but really inside we are just holding back or trying to look the other way.


----------



## Sir Beregond

KedarWolf said:


> When I'm riding the bus and someone is talking and saying 'like' in every sentence, I always have to fight a really strong urge to tell them to shut the **** up.


You know you screwed up if even the Canadian wants to tell you off with some expletives.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Idk why everyone thinks Canadians are nice?
If nothing their pretty dumb most of them,you pretending to be nice and truly being nice are two completely different things! I've been to the US and I've seen much nicer and warmer people there then here, with ofc everywhere you have idiots.
Canadians from what I've seen are 90% fake and I think there's this stigma that Americans are dumb and somehow Canadians are nice/polite and smart compared to you Americans which imho is so far from the truth.
Here in Canada just scratch a bit underneat that fake surface and you'll pretty fast see how Canadians aren't what everyone portrays them to be!
Quite funny honestly...

I'd rather you tell me openly i'm a dumb idiot if I did something wrong then you pretending around and talking **** behind my back like almost all Canadians do. If you say bad words (omg) doesn't mean you're bad,mostly does people who never swear are the worst


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Idk why everyone thinks Canadians are nice?
> If nothing their pretty dumb most of them,you pretending to be nice and truly being nice are two completely different things! I've been to the US and I've seen much nicer and warmer people there then here, with ofc everywhere you have idiots.
> Canadians from what I've seen are 90% fake and I think there's this stigma that Americans are dumb and somehow Canadians are nice/polite and smart compared to you Americans which imho is so far from the truth.
> Here in Canada just scratch a bit underneat that fake surface and you'll pretty fast see how Canadians aren't what everyone portrays them to be!
> Quite funny honestly...
> 
> I'd rather you tell me openly i'm a dumb idiot if I did something wrong then you pretending around and talking **** behind my back like almost all Canadians do. If you say bad words (omg) doesn't mean you're bad,mostly does people who never swear are the worst


That or we don’t say anything/ignore you. Thats what i do, i just let you go your way and whatever happens is not my responsibility. Lot of fake hi’s and i’m busy etc lines.

I don’t believe in swearing at all though. Just use some neutral words and word it in sentence to imply your meaning. It’s something from British society i have noticed (all british colonies kind of share this i noticed).


----------



## iamjanco

Edge0fsanity said:


> Blocked my KPE over the weekend and put it in the loop.
> ----------------------------8<--------(snip)---------------------
> Everything about this build is in flux, soft tube is temporary, fluid color was an experiment that didn't quite turn out, fans are getting replaced with something better, all wiring will be built from scratch and redone, leds on the block are the wrong color temp, etc. Mostly threw this together to get it up and running asap.
> 
> View attachment 2542408


Nice build! That's a Yuel Beast Atlas, isn't it? Unfortunately, from the looks of their website, they decided to stop making cases.

I would have bought one myself otherwise.

Maybe @LiquidHaus knows what's up with them.



ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> 😂🤣
> living in Toronto...


Heck, we're about 300 miles apart. I'm in the NE Adirondacks, about 100 miles south of Montreal.

If it weren't for the Beers Virus, we're close enough that we could do swap meats meets.



sakete said:


> Most adults are just children in adult body suits.
> 
> 
> Sir Beregond said:
> 
> 
> 
> I both love and hate this movie. Love it for what it is, hate it because its turning into reality.
> 
> 
> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone else notice the increased amount of reddit like posts appearing on ocn?
> 
> 
> geriatricpollywog said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well-written and helpful?
> 
> 
> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I sure hope so
> 
> 
> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Lot more than in the past lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I like to think that just because one is old, they don't have to stop having fun (or being helpful). In my case, the alternative could involve becoming fully dependent on others, while more or less waiting to die.

I refuse to end up like that and will likely do a _*cat*_ when I think that time has come.

That said, my kin have detailed instructions to have me cremated, take my ashes to the top of the Zugspitze (by way of hiking up the back way instead of taking the lift), and scatter them into the Austrian Alps on a day the wind's blowing south.

It's a two-day hike uphill the back way, and if they're smart they'll overnite at the *Reintalangerhütte*, a once in a lifetime experience I'll never forget. It gets packed to the hilt (think crowded beer fest) and the accommodations pretty much amount two _up-front-and-close six-to-a-mattress bunk beds_.

...while my big buddy Mike (6'6") slept to my right, a pretty blond girl who reminded me of a _Hildegard_ slept to my left. Not a vestal virgin, mind you; I don't think any of them are virgins once they reach that age.



Spoiler: Hildegard















Anyway, for further reading, just in case anyone is curious: *Why do cats go away to die?*

Oh, and lastly/btw, I'll probably have my last wishes instructions I mentioned above amended to have my 3090 cremated with me. _Think of it like you would a Viking burial..._

*Next up: *Dudley Do-Right jokes -- tata/enjoy!


----------



## dng25

KP block almost here


----------



## Sir Beregond

iamjanco said:


> I like to think that just because one is old, they don't have to stop having fun (or being helpful).


Oh I agree. I am a corny joke and pun machine at home and at work much to the chagrin of those around me, though they usually slip out a chuckle whether they want to or not. My comment with regard to Idiocracy was more around the collective critical thinking skills and ability to articulate a thought in society these days. I'm not always the best at written articulation of my thoughts, but it at least hasn't devolved to calling everyone bro and a million "you know what I mean?"


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Sir Beregond said:


> Oh I agree. I am a corny joke and pun machine at home and at work much to the chagrin of those around me, though they usually slip out a chuckle whether they want to or not. My comment with regard to Idiocracy was more around the collective critical thinking skills and ability to articulate a thought in society these days. I'm not always the best at written articulation of my thoughts, but it at least hasn't devolved to calling everyone bro and a million "you know what I mean?"


Reminds me when I came back here 4 years ago

Me and a co-worker had a conversation lets say about Martin for 15min, I said ‘Well yea,he is (making up can’t remember details) slow when he does that” co-worker goes “Brooooo,who you takin bout?” I didn’t know if he was joking or what’s going on because we just talked about said Martin for 15min??? I told him “We are talking about Martin for 15min,we never changed subject so if I said “HE” that kinda concludes it’s about Martin,right?” He goes ‘Broooo,stop brooo…I don’t get what you’re talking about” 
That’s when I figured out when you talk to these 20 year olds you basically have to hand hold them the entire conversation so he can understand the basics. But ofc most important is they know how to make that cringe crap on TikTok,post fake lips/boobs etc etc…that really stuck with me because in Europe it’s fast talking,no bro/bruhhh and you get to the point quickly.

Ofc this isn’t everyone,you have smart younger people but as time passes the dumber they’re getting collectively!


----------



## Edge0fsanity

iamjanco said:


> Nice build! That's a Yuel Beast Atlas, isn't it? Unfortunately, from the looks of their website, they decided to stop making cases.
> 
> I would have bought one myself otherwise.
> 
> Maybe @LiquidHaus knows what's up with them.


Yes it is, I got one of the last ones back in August of last year. They had some leftover from the pre-order. Sucks that they stopped making cases, I love interesting designs like this but I guess it'll be that much more rare to see one. @LiquidHaus posts and build in it is what got me to buy one.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

I think I will sell my black copper cp block. I dont know if any one wants to buy in my country but I am not even using my computer any more.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Edge0fsanity said:


> Blocked my KPE over the weekend and put it in the loop. Install went smooth with no flex in the PCB. Also took the chance to swap my build out of my inwin 925 and into a yuel beast atlas II kicking off the new build. Will be working on this into the summer I think. Had a little time to test and the thermals are excellent. 8C core/water delta at about 550w power draw. And this is with a not great flow rate of .8gpm. Discovered my new optimus res has a faulty pump that I can't read or control speed on it, suspect it only runs around 60-70% of max speed. Will replace it this weekend and retest, bet I gain another 1C off the core. Loop gets a 7C air/water delta with the fans maxed out, was hoping for closer to 5C. Thinking better fans will fix this problem as the lianli ones are crap performance.
> 
> Card is heavy at nearly 7.5lb
> 
> View attachment 2542407
> 
> View attachment 2542406
> 
> 
> Everything about this build is in flux, soft tube is temporary, fluid color was an experiment that didn't quite turn out, fans are getting replaced with something better, all wiring will be built from scratch and redone, leds on the block are the wrong color temp, etc. Mostly threw this together to get it up and running asap.
> 
> View attachment 2542408


Looks awsome
Which case is that?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Reminds me when I came back here 4 years ago
> 
> Me and a co-worker had a conversation lets say about Martin for 15min, I said ‘Well yea,he is (making up can’t remember details) slow when he does that” co-worker goes “Brooooo,who you takin bout?” I didn’t know if he was joking or what’s going on because we just talked about said Martin for 15min??? I told him “We are talking about Martin for 15min,we never changed subject so if I said “HE” that kinda concludes it’s about Martin,right?” He goes ‘Broooo,stop brooo…I don’t get what you’re talking about”
> That’s when I figured out when you talk to these 20 year olds you basically have to hand hold them the entire conversation so he can understand the basics. But ofc most important is they know how to make that cringe crap on TikTok,post fake lips/boobs etc etc…that really stuck with me because in Europe it’s fast talking,no bro/bruhhh and you get to the point quickly.
> 
> Ofc this isn’t everyone,you have smart younger people but as time passes the dumber they’re getting collectively!


I haven’t heard anybody identify as European, but rather the country within Europe they are from. Which country are you from?


----------



## Paramedic10

Huseyinbaykal said:


> I think I will sell my black copper cp block. I dont know if any one wants to buy in my country but I am not even using my computer any more.


You were so eager to get it, now you don't want it?

@dng25 what was your order number/date?


----------



## sakete

Sir Beregond said:


> Oh I agree. I am a corny joke and pun machine at home and at work much to the chagrin of those around me, though they usually slip out a chuckle whether they want to or not. My comment with regard to Idiocracy was more around the collective critical thinking skills and ability to articulate a thought in society these days. I'm not always the best at written articulation of my thoughts, but it at least hasn't devolved to calling everyone bro and a million "you know what I mean?"


Right, I'm also a corny lame idiot when I make my jokes. What I consider adult behavior is an ability to take responsibility for one's action, own up to things and being able to have healthy debates without succombing to tribalism and getting offended about all kinds of little insignificant things.

It's surprising how many adults lack this and in that sense behave just like children.

Still being able to have fun as an adult and do silly things is good for mental health  or else life would just be constant drudgery.


----------



## Biggu

Huseyinbaykal said:


> Looks awsome
> Which case is that?


yuel beast atlas II


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Paramedic10 said:


> You were so eager to get it, now you don't want it?
> 
> @dng25 what was your order number/date?


I still like the block but dunno if I will get the ti or not. Cant make my mind. I will decide that at the weekend


----------



## dng25

Paramedic10 said:


> You were so eager to get it, now you don't want it?
> 
> @dng25 what was your order number/date?


524x about 1 hours after email announcement


----------



## HyperMatrix

Huseyinbaykal said:


> I still like the block but dunno if I will *can* get the ti or not.


Corrected it for you.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

geriatricpollywog said:


> I haven’t heard anybody identify as European, but rather the country within Europe they are from. Which country are you from?


I’m from Croatia,but I lived in Germany for 10 years and Italy for 6. I was all over the place never longer then 10 years at one place.
I say European because in most Europe we talk differently then here,faster and come to the point quicker. Plus nobody really cares to much about your feelings like here,how you identify as he/she/it nobody gives a crap there. People are much more direct in conversations whereas here a lot is fake,fake smiles,fake friendships tho that same stuff is slowly creeping to Europe to.
I guess the whole world is changing and it’s hard for me to put myself into it because I’m not like that. That’s why I avoid unnecessary conversations outside,if you just have a slightly different opinion everyone cuts you off immediately. From that fake ‘I care about everyone” it’s **** off Haha


----------



## LiquidHaus

Edge0fsanity said:


> Mostly threw this together to get it up and running asap.
> 
> View attachment 2542408


you say you threw this together quickly yet it resembles mine! are you saying I threw mine together quickly?! because if so, you're right! hahaha. looks great dude. honestly love the fluid color but yeah you most definitely need at least two D5's running to get through all four radiators. 

I'm at 235lph right now, cranks up to 266lph under load.



iamjanco said:


> Nice build! That's a Yuel Beast Atlas, isn't it? Unfortunately, from the looks of their website, they decided to stop making cases.
> 
> I would have bought one myself otherwise.
> 
> Maybe @LiquidHaus knows what's up with them.


I am indeed very close with them! GREAT couple of guys. I don't want to get anyone's hopes up, but there was a whisper of more Atlas II's coming. Not sure on ETA, but I believe there's been enough demand springing up lately. I'm sure whatever it would be, it'd be limited availability.


----------



## chibi

LiquidHaus said:


> I am indeed very close with them! GREAT couple of guys. I don't want to get anyone's hopes up, but there was a whisper of more Atlas II's coming. Not sure on ETA, but I believe there's been enough demand springing up lately. I'm sure whatever it would be, it'd be limited availability.


Hey buddy, do you mind dropping an announcement in this thread if or when they do come back for sale? I emailed the guys after they sold out in 2021 but they didn't have any in the works for purchasing. I'm not a social media person so only follow this thread mainly. Thank you!


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

chibi said:


> Hey buddy, do you mind dropping an announcement in this thread if or when they do come back for sale? Thank you!



Guys this is exactly what I’m talking about,being FAKE like chibi-boy here!

Doesn’t write or acknowledge LiquidHaus for 1 year to suddenly “Hey buddy, do you mind…and THANK YOU!” because he needs a favour smh…Probably even downvoting Liquids builds on reddit

Btw I’m just joking it kinda fitted the whole thing we were talking about the last 2-3 days, I had to use chibi here 😂


But not going to lie that case is really beautiful,going to see what’s happening with the v3000+ and if it’s not as I like I can see myself getting this case. Didn’t touch my build for 4-5 months now and I know I shouldn’t but it’s slowly itching to do something new 🙁


----------



## chibi

_Ahem_ - I've msg'd LH a few times now in the past year and upvoted his Atlas build on reddit too, tyvm


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

chibi said:


> _Ahem_ - I've msg'd LH a few times now in the past year and upvoted his Atlas build on reddit too, tyvm


Liquids builds are awesome,I follow him mostly on Instagram and I often visit his website for inspiration purposes.
How mych are those Yuel Beast cases?
I’ve never seen them or heard about them till liquid didn’t post here the first time


----------



## geriatricpollywog

The resemblance is striking


----------



## Thebc2

12th gen refresh complete. Was saving so much up for this rebuild, only thing that didn’t make it in time was my next rgb flow sensor, but I did implement a non-next aquacomputer flow sensor for some basic flow numbers at least. Both the Optimus Strix gpu block and sig v2 block I got before there was an option to cerekote. 

New additions:

12900k with an Optimus sig v2 replacing a 10900k with an Optimus foundation block
Optimus Strix gpu block replacing my Ekwb gpu block
Asus z690 Apex
32GB Teamgroup 6400c40 DDR5
Aquacomputer flow sensor (basic version)


Rest of system: 

Caselabs M8 w/ ped
4 hwlabs 360mm sr-2s (push/pull)
1 hwlabs 360mm GTS (push)
Ekwb dual d5 pump
Evga 1600 T2 ps

Thoughts. Have yet to push the cpu at all, so not many thoughts on the sig v2 other than echoing the need for a rear bracket or just a better mounting solution in general. It definitely seems like an area where some proper engineering would really improve the user experience with the product and bring the installation experience up a notch (similar to ekwb’s new lga1700 mounting) and in line with the exceptional cooling performance.

The GPU block has really impressed me. See if you can make out those numbers in hwinfo, but the coolest stat is the max temp of 39.5c. Memory junction temps have dropped by 30c as well over the Ekwb block (non-active backplate). Also super happy to finally get some flow numbers and also see that I am averaging 1gpm through 5x360 rads with just dual d5s.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

geriatricpollywog said:


> The resemblance is striking
> View attachment 2542629
> 
> 
> View attachment 2542630



Doesn't a thick 360 HeatKiller Rad fit on the 2 behind spots? My OCD would kill me looking at it the whole time...it needs to be
*"Perfectly Balanced, As All Things Should Be."*


The more I'm looking at this case the more I like it! Matte black 16mm hard tubing with a matte black cerakote block aswell as the matte black CPU block uhhhhhhhh
Btw the green liquid really goes well with the black and white rgb fans.
Maybe the GPU would look better if it was angled like Liquidboy did it,that green would really make it pop from the GPU block???


----------



## satinghostrider

Thebc2 said:


> 12th gen refresh complete. Was saving so much up for this rebuild, only thing that didn’t make it in time was my next rgb flow sensor, but I did implement a non-next aquacomputer flow sensor for some basic flow numbers at least. Both the Optimus Strix gpu block and sig v2 block I got before there was an option to cerekote.
> 
> New additions:
> 
> 12900k with an Optimus sig v2 replacing a 10900k with an Optimus foundation block
> Optimus Strix gpu block replacing my Ekwb gpu block
> Asus z690 Apex
> 32GB Teamgroup 6400c40 DDR5
> Aquacomputer flow sensor (basic version)
> 
> 
> Rest of system:
> 
> Caselabs M8 w/ ped
> 4 hwlabs 360mm sr-2s (push/pull)
> 1 hwlabs 360mm GTS (push)
> Ekwb dual d5 pump
> Evga 1600 T2 ps
> 
> Thoughts. Have yet to push the cpu at all, so not many thoughts on the sig v2 other than echoing the need for a rear bracket or just a better mounting solution in general. It definitely seems like an area where some proper engineering would really improve the user experience with the product and bring the installation experience up a notch (similar to ekwb’s new lga1700 mounting) and in line with the exceptional cooling performance.
> 
> The GPU block has really impressed me. See if you can make out those numbers in hwinfo, but the coolest stat is the max temp of 39.5c. Memory junction temps have dropped by 30c as well over the Ekwb block (non-active backplate). Also super happy to finally get some flow numbers and also see that I am averaging 1gpm through 5x360 rads with just dual d5s.


I'm also getting 38-40 degrees max on my system for my Strix Block with 1xEK XE and 1xEK PE. Pretty damn impressive when you look at the hotspot delta. But I didn't use the kpx paste I used the Thermalright TFX paste instead.









And these are in-game temps. Like the block is literally laughing at the card. 😂


----------



## geriatricpollywog

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Doesn't a thick 360 HeatKiller Rad fit on the 2 behind spots? My OCD would kill me looking at it the whole time...it needs to be
> *"Perfectly Balanced, As All Things Should Be."*
> 
> 
> The more I'm looking at this case the more I like it! Matte black 16mm hard tubing with a matte black cerakote block aswell as the matte black CPU block uhhhhhhhh
> Btw the green liquid really goes well with the black and white rgb fans.
> Maybe the GPU would look better if it was angled like Liquidboy did it,that green would really make it pop from the GPU block???


I prefer the asymetrical look. I also prefer the GPU block and layout of Liquid Haus's build. His tasteful mix of clear hardline and black rubber is bing chilling. I would copy the look too if I had an Atlas II.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> you say you threw this together quickly yet it resembles mine! are you saying I threw mine together quickly?! because if so, you're right! hahaha. looks great dude. honestly love the fluid color but yeah you most definitely need at least two D5's running to get through all four radiators.
> 
> I'm at 235lph right now, cranks up to 266lph under load.
> 
> 
> 
> I am indeed very close with them! GREAT couple of guys. I don't want to get anyone's hopes up, but there was a whisper of more Atlas II's coming. Not sure on ETA, but I believe there's been enough demand springing up lately. I'm sure whatever it would be, it'd be limited availability.


Its nice to have limited runs. They can always come out with new cases instead of being stuck fulfilling orders on older cases. Also makes there cases more valuable since it’s limited edition


----------



## Edge0fsanity

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Doesn't a thick 360 HeatKiller Rad fit on the 2 behind spots? My OCD would kill me looking at it the whole time...it needs to be
> *"Perfectly Balanced, As All Things Should Be."*
> 
> 
> The more I'm looking at this case the more I like it! Matte black 16mm hard tubing with a matte black cerakote block aswell as the matte black CPU block uhhhhhhhh
> Btw the green liquid really goes well with the black and white rgb fans.
> Maybe the GPU would look better if it was angled like Liquidboy did it,that green would really make it pop from the GPU block???


Yes and no. The problem with the thicker rad is it would limit the direction you can run tubing. I didn't like the idea of having to run tube outside the boundaries of the case. Its why I copied LH's big/small HK rad setup.

I thought about doing the angled block like LH but that would hide the backplate block so I decided against it. I would also worry about building a bracket strong enough to hold the GPU in place, this thing is really heavy.

LED fans are going away, bought a set of black noctua a12s last night. I have a spool of 7000K white led strips I'll be using for lighting the blocks, the res's, and in between the rads. This will give everything that stark white/slightly purple color that looks good against the green fluid. The leds on the blocks right now are around 4500K temp.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

LiquidHaus said:


> you say you threw this together quickly yet it resembles mine! are you saying I threw mine together quickly?! because if so, you're right! hahaha. looks great dude. honestly love the fluid color but yeah you most definitely need at least two D5's running to get through all four radiators.
> 
> I'm at 235lph right now, cranks up to 266lph under load.


Good to know I've got plenty of headroom for better flow. I get around 180lph with the defective pump right now.


----------



## chibi

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Doesn't a thick 360 HeatKiller Rad fit on the 2 behind spots? My OCD would kill me looking at it the whole time...it needs to be
> *"Perfectly Balanced, As All Things Should Be."*


Also have to note the fittings clearance as well. With the extra height of the rad, you may have issues with the fittings coming out due to the angle of the frame bend.


----------



## dwolvin

I have to admit that I'd have gone symmetrical rads, but that's just me. Still a pair of sick builds!


----------



## RichKnecht

geriatricpollywog said:


> The resemblance is striking
> View attachment 2542629
> 
> 
> View attachment 2542630


I want one. Those look pretty awesome! Have to have matching rads though.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

I just throwing out ideas and writing what’s in my head because I haven’t seen it in person so I can’t judge clearance but could one lets say put 2x 360 rads on top with the fans and now where you guys have the upper rads put the 2 reservoirs horizontally above the mobo and GPU block?
Wouldn’t that look sick, I know @Edge0fsanity has the 2 OPTIMUS reservoirs and I have mine horizontally and it’s stable that way! Tho he has the biggest tubes whereas mine is the medium but still it should be doable/stable. Then on top you could potentially do 2x push/pull on thicker rads?!
Either you can keep the 2 reservoirs where they are now (go for a 4x reservoir build),or potentially have another rad there instead of them.


----------



## warbucks

geriatricpollywog said:


> The resemblance is striking
> View attachment 2542629
> 
> 
> View attachment 2542630


Looks great. What case/frame is that?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

warbucks said:


> Looks great. What case/frame is that?


Yuel Beast Atlas II


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

satinghostrider said:


> I'm also getting 38-40 degrees max on my system for my Strix Block with 1xEK XE and 1xEK PE. Pretty damn impressive when you look at the hotspot delta. But I didn't use the kpx paste I used the Thermalright TFX paste instead.
> View attachment 2542678
> 
> 
> And these are in-game temps. Like the block is literally laughing at the card. 😂



These are my temps playing GTA 5 for 2h and these are pretty stable overclocks for me.Pretty much the same plus minus a bit

I don't have Intel I'm on a AMD 5900x and Strix 3090 OC


----------



## satinghostrider

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> These are my temps playing GTA 5 for 2h and these are pretty stable overclocks for me.Pretty much the same plus minus a bit
> 
> I don't have Intel I'm on a AMD 5900x and Strix 3090 OC
> 
> View attachment 2542823


Awesome pretty much similar for temps given my ****ty typical Asian weather. Haven't pushed my GPU much yet just been focussed on playing after hell stabilising my DDR5.

👍


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

satinghostrider said:


> Awesome pretty much similar for temps given my ****ty typical Asian weather. Haven't pushed my GPU much yet just been focussed on playing after hell stabilising my DDR5.
> 
> 👍


I think I could eventually push it a bit more and still be stable but I’m at a point where it’s just to bothersome. I’ll leaveit at these settings/OC’s and call it done!
Doesn’t crash,no mem errors so far but that’s always a story for itself and the temps are amazing considering the OC and this is the 1000W BIOS there. But as you can see it never exceeds 430W power draw,not sure if it’s suppossed to be like that because what’s the point then if the 1000W on these cards flashing it then?


----------



## satinghostrider

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I think I could eventually push it a bit more and still be stable but I’m at a point where it’s just to bothersome. I’ll leaveit at these settings/OC’s and call it done!
> Doesn’t crash,no mem errors so far but that’s always a story for itself and the temps are amazing considering the OC and this is the 1000W BIOS there. But as you can see it never exceeds 430W power draw,nit sure if it’s suppossed to be like that because wha’s the point then if the 1000W on these cards flashing it then?


I'm also hitting around there but with the stock bios. In games, I'm around 430W too the only time I see it max out to close to 450W is when I run Superstition 8k. Unless the game requires that much power which I doubt, you can recheck by running Superstition 8k and see how much you pull. Quite certain you'll be past 500W-600w with the 1000w bios.


----------



## elbramso

Looks like the 3090 KPE guys keep the lead a little longer...
3090Ti delayed...


----------



## UdoG

Is there anything I can do to keep the thermal pad from being pushed out (FTW3)?

Example:


----------



## sakete

UdoG said:


> Is there anything I can do to keep the thermal pad from being pushed out (FTW3)?
> 
> Example:
> 
> View attachment 2542880


Cut out the pieces sticking out.


----------



## doox00

Now that my system is done and I am mostly satisfied with it I get to start my wifes new build today. Hers is a 12900k too but with a 3080 TI instead of a 3090 like this one. I have an Optimus and an EK gpu block for hers, not sure which I want to use. Has anyone added an rgb strip to the optimus gpu block? How/where did you add it and how does it look?


----------



## MrFox

Hey guys. Happy New Year.

I ordered a 3090 Kingpin GPU block as soon as they opened up orders and ended up cancelling because it was taking such a long time to be released. After waiting what felt like forever, I requested a refund. I still really want one. Now that it is actually available, anyone know what the lead time is from order to ship date? I asked OptimusPC and got no response. If I ordered one today, I'd like to know how long I would be waiting for it to ship. I love OptimusPC products, I have purchased 4 CPU blocks and they are the best, but they are notoriously slow to respond to emails and often only answer one question when I ask more than one.

Can anyone confirm from personal experience that fit on a Z490 Dark with the active backplate is not a problem? I am concerned about contact interference since there is not a ton of open space with the stock 3090 Kingpin backplate. It would be horrible to order, wait and finally get it only to discover it won't fit. Z590 Dark owners may also be curious about this for the same reason.


----------



## MrFox

Darn. The folks at OptimusPC cannot confirm it will fit. Anyone know here?


----------



## KedarWolf

@Optimus WC 

Will there ever be a Strix OC active backplate?


----------



## KedarWolf

MrFox said:


> Darn. The folks at OptimusPC cannot confirm it will fit. Anyone know here?


Honestly, the VRMs are so massive on that board, Buildzoid has said on similar boards, you could take off the VRM heatsink and it wouldn't matter.


----------



## Section31

If you know anyone thats building an watercooled pc or wants to and needs part, I got ahold of the excess remaining back from my friend. So 10-15ft of Mayhem Clear 3/8-5/8 Tubing and many BP 90 Rotary in White/Royal Blue.

As long as you handle shipping its yours. Not really into helping people go find cheapest shipping etc. Only will package and drop off.


----------



## MrFox

MrFox said:


> Darn. The folks at OptimusPC cannot confirm it will fit. Anyone know here?


@Optimus WC can you please provide a measurement of the height of the active backplate from the PCB contact point to the exterior block surface so I can attempt to measure for clearance on the Z490 Dark VRM heatsink?


----------



## Biggu

MrFox said:


> @Optimus WC can you please provide a measurement of the height of the active backplate from the PCB contact point to the exterior block surface so I can attempt to measure for clearance on the Z490 Dark VRM heatsink?


Im pretty sure they already mentioned in this thread the measurements that you are looking for but I wouldnt expect them to respond back in this thread any time soon.


----------



## MrFox

Biggu said:


> Im pretty sure they already mentioned in this thread the measurements that you are looking for but I wouldnt expect them to respond back in this thread any time soon.


Ok. I will look this weekend when I have access to an internet connection that is fast enough to support web surfing on a PC. The crappy connection I have right now is too slow and unreliable.


----------



## dng25

MrFox said:


> Darn. The folks at OptimusPC cannot confirm it will fit. Anyone know here?


I'll let you know when I install mine. Haven't had time to redo my loop yet. But from the looks of it we wouldn't have a problem for z490 Dark.

The acrylic is offset quite a bit from the backplate screws. If you look at your current kingpin backplate the screws are directly under the motherboard heatsinks.


----------



## MrFox

dng25 said:


> I'll let you know when I install mine. Haven't had time to redo my loop yet. But from the looks of it we wouldn't have a problem for z490 Dark.
> 
> The acrylic is offset quite a bit from the backplate screws. If you look at your current kingpin backplate the screws are directly under the motherboard heatsinks.


Awesome. Thank you so much. I really want one but I'll wait until you can reply and confirm. I really appreciate it.


----------



## chibi

Got my Lian Li RB-001 radiator offset brackets in. No stock in US/Can so I ordered directly from Lian Li. Took exactly 2 weeks from time of order to delivery. Now just waiting on Quadro and some Dewire cable management.

Filter is almost black now from the extended flush experiment.


----------



## Sir Beregond

chibi said:


> Got my Lian Li RB-001 radiator offset brackets in. No stock in US/Can so I ordered directly from Lian Li. Took exactly 2 weeks from time of order to delivery. Now just waiting on Quadro and some Dewire cable management.
> 
> Filter is almost black now from the extended flush experiment.


How long have you been flushing and with what?



doox00 said:


> Now that my system is done and I am mostly satisfied with it I get to start my wifes new build today. Hers is a 12900k too but with a 3080 TI instead of a 3090 like this one. I have an Optimus and an EK gpu block for hers, not sure which I want to use. Has anyone added an rgb strip to the optimus gpu block? How/where did you add it and how does it look?
> 
> 
> View attachment 2542985


What tubing and what size? I am in the market for rigid white tubing and am curious what people are using.

Also what fittings?


----------



## Sir Beregond

ack, sorry double post.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Got my Lian Li RB-001 radiator offset brackets in. No stock in US/Can so I ordered directly from Lian Li. Took exactly 2 weeks from time of order to delivery. Now just waiting on Quadro and some Dewire cable management.
> 
> Filter is almost black now from the extended flush experiment.


Restocks are hell and they sell out fast lol. Me, Shawnb99, couple others were looking to get some of the restock of the TX Stabilizers. Keyboard stabilizers lol. It's nuts but they sold out in seconds on first release in Nov and then on second release last two days on Ashkeebs, Meikboo. Hopefully can get it on Apex but going to probably take longer than thought.

I'm targeting the upcoming instock sale of Owlabs Spring (Alice Arisu ergo layout) with 4 week delivery or less and even something like that could be an massive fight to get. It's worse than GPU fighting.


----------



## chibi

Sir Beregond said:


> How long have you been flushing and with what?


13 days ago as of the post below:









Optimus Waterblock


You are right, it is a 140mm fan blowing air out of the case, not in. Hey I wish you the best. If your temps become high, you won't have to ask why. Just flip the fans. The white really is a beautiful build. Yeah, that is why I asked if you can swap the positive and negative wires in the plug...




www.overclock.net






Nice and sunny today, looks like a great time to milk the recent floods for what it's worth ... thanks Purolator


----------



## CluckyTaco

Anyone know when we can expect that Dewire 560 to be back in stock? It's been OOS for months.








Relay 560


The Dewire Relay series is compatible with all PWM and DC fans*, and are made to fit both custom and AIO water-cooling radiators. It is easy to install thanks to it's adhesive foam insulation pad installed on the back. Available in both regular and push-pull (Dual) option Fits any slim...




dewire.shop


----------



## elbramso

Today was finally a colder night here in Germany so I decided to give my hardware an especially the Optimus block some Port Royal food.
Pretty happy with the result:








I scored 16 569 in Port Royal


Intel Core i9-10900K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}




www.3dmark.com





I was able to add a bigger offset to the mem because of the good cooling.


----------



## chibi

CluckyTaco said:


> Anyone know when we can expect that Dewire 560 to be back in stock? It's been OOS for months.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Relay 560
> 
> 
> The Dewire Relay series is compatible with all PWM and DC fans*, and are made to fit both custom and AIO water-cooling radiators. It is easy to install thanks to it's adhesive foam insulation pad installed on the back. Available in both regular and push-pull (Dual) option Fits any slim...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dewire.shop


The vendor made a reddit post a few months ago stating that manufacturing the 560 has been challenging, thus no stock. Not sure if he's completed the new process that was mentioned or not, but I guess it's still an issue.


----------



## doox00

My coolant level has gone down about an inch or so in the past few days since building it, not finding any water anywhere in the case/loop. I understand it could go down some due to bubbles etc but seems kind of a lot. Anyone else experience this?

**Ok, just topped it off and took almost nothing to fill it.. it is a distro plate with the pumps etc in it, so does not hold a lot of liquid, used to the tube style reses that hold much more.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

elbramso said:


> Today was finally a colder night here in Germany so I decided to give my hardware an especially the Optimus block some Port Royal food.
> Pretty happy with the result:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I scored 16 569 in Port Royal
> 
> 
> Intel Core i9-10900K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.3dmark.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to add a bigger offset to the mem because of the good cooling.


Very nice score. Is that a Kingpin?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

CluckyTaco said:


> Anyone know when we can expect that Dewire 560 to be back in stock? It's been OOS for months.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Relay 560
> 
> 
> The Dewire Relay series is compatible with all PWM and DC fans*, and are made to fit both custom and AIO water-cooling radiators. It is easy to install thanks to it's adhesive foam insulation pad installed on the back. Available in both regular and push-pull (Dual) option Fits any slim...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dewire.shop


Had no idea something like this exists. Just bought 4 360 relays. This will save me a ton of time soldering together wiring harnesses for each rad in my build.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

doox00 said:


> My coolant level has gone down about an inch or so in the past few days since building it, not finding any water anywhere in the case/loop. I understand it could go down some due to bubbles etc but seems kind of a lot. Anyone else experience this?
> 
> **Ok, just topped it off and took almost nothing to fill it.. it is a distro plate with the pumps etc in it, so does not hold a lot of liquid, used to the tube style reses that hold much more.


I refilled mine 4 times!

I suppose there are hidden bubbles in the radiators,every couple of days I refill a bit till it fills up fully. If you want to do it faster,refill and then turn it around that’ll fill the missing bubbles/whatever it is faster


----------



## chibi

Edge0fsanity said:


> Had no idea something like this exists. Just bought 4 360 relays. This will save me a ton of time soldering together wiring harnesses for each rad in my build.


Be prepared to wait a bit to get them. I ordered three and they didn't get processed for shipping until the third day.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

chibi said:


> Be prepared to wait a bit to get them. I ordered three and they didn't get processed for shipping until the third day.


No rush to get them, figured it would take a couple weeks


----------



## Sir Beregond

doox00 said:


> My coolant level has gone down about an inch or so in the past few days since building it, not finding any water anywhere in the case/loop. I understand it could go down some due to bubbles etc but seems kind of a lot. Anyone else experience this?
> 
> **Ok, just topped it off and took almost nothing to fill it.. it is a distro plate with the pumps etc in it, so does not hold a lot of liquid, used to the tube style reses that hold much more.


Well if it's a distro plate, then going down an inch isn't actually that much liquid. If you went down an inch in a tube res on the other hand, that would be a lot of air pockets pushed worked out.


----------



## elbramso

geriatricpollywog said:


> Very nice score. Is that a Kingpin?


Yes it is. 
I'm really thinking about setting a little higher voltage on the nvvdd but I don't want to risk my card 😅
During my testing I've seen "nvvdd too high" on the oled a couple of times but yesterday it wasn't even close. 
Well it's probably not worth it because it takes quite some more voltage to hit the next clock step. 
Anyways, this is my first kingpin and the fun I have with this thing should almost be illegal 😂


----------



## CluckyTaco

Edge0fsanity said:


> Had no idea something like this exists. Just bought 4 360 relays. This will save me a ton of time soldering together wiring harnesses for each rad in my build.


Glad I could help, I have an ext 560 rad that has a mess of cables for 8 fans. I've put off making custom cables because of this product but they have not been in stock for more than 6 months. Sigh, I feel like when I make the plunge then they'll be back in stock.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

elbramso said:


> Yes it is.
> I'm really thinking about setting a little higher voltage on the nvvdd but I don't want to risk my card 😅
> During my testing I've seen "nvvdd too high" on the oled a couple of times but yesterday it wasn't even close.
> Well it's probably not worth it because it takes quite some more voltage to hit the next clock step.
> Anyways, this is my first kingpin and the fun I have with this thing should almost be illegal 😂


Do you mind sharing a screenshot of your classified tool settings?


----------



## elbramso

geriatricpollywog said:


> Do you mind sharing a screenshot of your classified tool settings?


Sure, here you go:









I was using nvvdd 1.25v with a LL 1 for the most time but I didn't like the fact that it sometimes overshoots too much, so I decided to go for the highest LL and slowly raised nvvdd to the point where the nvvdd shown on the oled won't go any higher then 1.45

Please keep in mind these settings where used on water temp of 4c.

NV freq. didn't do anything to me so I raised them to the max^^


----------



## geriatricpollywog

elbramso said:


> Sure, here you go:
> View attachment 2544009
> 
> 
> I was using nvvdd 1.25v with a LL 1 for the most time but I didn't like the fact that it sometimes overshoots too much, so I decided to go for the highest LL and slowly raised nvvdd to the point where the nvvdd shown on the oled won't go any higher then 1.45
> 
> Please keep in mind these settings where used on water temp of 4c.
> 
> NV freq. didn't do anything to me so I raised them to the max^^


Thank you! I applied at -13C ambient. My MO-RA is running 30% glycol so freezing is not an issue. I couldn't beat your PR, but I see similar scores using these settings:


----------



## elbramso

geriatricpollywog said:


> Thank you! I applied at -13C ambient. My MO-RA is running 30% glycol so freezing is not an issue. I couldn't beat your PR, but I see similar scores using these settings:
> 
> View attachment 2544016


Thanks for sharing.
Now that I see that you used 1.45v on the memory I might try this as well.
Maybe that's what is needed to push my memory even higher to be able to hit 16600 in PR 😅

Damn, I thought Im done with benchmarks for while 😂


----------



## geriatricpollywog

elbramso said:


> Thanks for sharing.
> Now that I see that you used 1.45v on the memory I might try this as well.
> Maybe that's what is needed to push my memory even higher to be able to hit 16600 in PR 😅
> 
> Damn, I thought Im done with benchmarks for while 😂


Yeah 1.45 memory is less scary to me than 1.3+ core.


----------



## elbramso

geriatricpollywog said:


> Yeah 1.45 memory is less scary to me than 1.3+ core.


Well but 1.3v on the core with LL15 is less scary than 1.25v with LL1 😜


----------



## tbrown7552

@LiquidHaus did you ever get your KP block fitted?


----------



## Section31

So for using alternative brand for backplate, watercool doesn’t work. Need to find/make alternative mounting screws at this rate.


----------



## Section31




----------



## dwolvin

Oof, so close! I really prefer a backplate also.


----------



## chibi

Who was it that posted they used an EKWB backplate with their Opt cpu block? @Section31 - I also have a spare Heatkiller backplate that I was going to use. Didn't test fit it yet but glad you did. Now I know it doesn't work lol.


----------



## bscool

chibi said:


> Who was it that posted they used an EKWB backplate with their Opt cpu block? @Section31 - I also have a spare Heatkiller backplate that I was going to use. Didn't test fit it yet but glad you did. Now I know it doesn't work lol.


Thing about using some 1151 backplates is they only have 2 holes so the backplate doesnt lay flat. LGA1700 has 4 holes. May not be a big deal but I am OCD like that and want it to be "sqaure" so to speak.

There are enough issues with the mounting pressure and IHS bowing to throw in another factor on 12th gen.

https://shop.watercool.de/media/ima...-backplate-intel-1150-1151-1155-1156-1200.jpg

https://shop.watercool.de/media/ima...-backplate-intel-1150-1151-1155-1156-1200.jpg


----------



## Section31

bscool said:


> Thing about using some 1151 backplates is they only have 2 holes so the backplate doesnt lay flat. May not be a big deal but I am OCD like that and want it to be "sqaure" so to speak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watercool HEATKILLER IV Backplate für Intel 11XX Prozessoren, 9,95 €
> 
> 
> Backplate zur idealen Lastverteilung für Intel Mainstream Prozessoren. Maximiert die optimale Leistung des Heatkiller IV Wasserkühlers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HEATKILLER IV Backplate INTEL 1700, 9,95 €
> 
> 
> Backplate zur idealen Lastverteilung für Intel Mainstream Prozessoren. Maximiert die optimale Leistung des Heatkiller IV Wasserkühlers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de


I got the lga1700 one. Will try out ekwb one and if not figure nut and bolt way to use watercool backplate.

In meantime will test out optimus block with 1mm washers and no cpu cover. See if any 4degrees improvements per igor labs


----------



## Section31

This is exact source of the issue. Either have to mill the heatkiller one or get some sort of washer/extender combo to compensate


----------



## bscool

chibi said:


> Who was it that posted they used an EKWB backplate with their Opt cpu block? @Section31 - I also have a spare Heatkiller backplate that I was going to use. Didn't test fit it yet but glad you did. Now I know it doesn't work lol.


I saw @geriatricpollywog









[Official] Intel Z690 / Z790 DDR4 Daily Memory Overclock


Huh. Well the Galax kit I have is actually my first Samsung B-die kit, so I was not aware. Is it just unstable, or does it full-blown refuse to boot? I'll test it out later today; have to do some work first. Both, some kits wont boot and some crash.




www.overclock.net


----------



## geriatricpollywog

bscool said:


> I saw @geriatricpollywog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Official] Intel Z690 / Z790 DDR4 Daily Memory Overclock
> 
> 
> Huh. Well the Galax kit I have is actually my first Samsung B-die kit, so I was not aware. Is it just unstable, or does it full-blown refuse to boot? I'll test it out later today; have to do some work first. Both, some kits wont boot and some crash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net


I couldn’t use the EK Supremacy EVO Mounting posts with the Optimus block. I have an EK Quantum Delta TEC EVO which has posts I think would work.


----------



## Section31

bscool said:


> I saw @geriatricpollywog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Official] Intel Z690 / Z790 DDR4 Daily Memory Overclock
> 
> 
> Huh. Well the Galax kit I have is actually my first Samsung B-die kit, so I was not aware. Is it just unstable, or does it full-blown refuse to boot? I'll test it out later today; have to do some work first. Both, some kits wont boot and some crash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net


Ok not attempting that idea. The one suggested by igorslab. Guess what the uneven pressure of the block effectively broke couple mobo cpu pins. Came back from buying new mobo.


----------



## Section31

Section31 said:


> Ok not attempting that idea. The one suggested by igorslab. Guess what the uneven pressure of the block effectively broke couple mobo cpu pins. Came back from buying new mobo.


Optimus mounting not designed for that. Mobo idea failed too. Damn Hero Fire Hazard is what left (mine was good one). Have to go up to Apex instead


----------



## dng25

MrFox said:


> Awesome. Thank you so much. I really want one but I'll wait until you can reply and confirm. I really appreciate it.


Update:

It fits but heatsink literally touching the acrylic.


----------



## Kommando Kodiak

Has optimus said anything about updating the mounting hardware for lga1700?

I also have a heatkiller IV pro


----------



## MrFox

dng25 said:


> Update:
> 
> It fits but heatsink literally touching the acrylic.
> 
> View attachment 2544325


Wonderful. Thank you so much for confirming. That sheetmetal cover can probably be gently tweaked a little bit to create a small air gap. I noticed that mine overhangs the heat sink by a few millimeters.

How are the core and memory temps? Looking forward to seeing your results.


----------



## Section31

Getting tired of the mo-ra3 doing this to all my optimus fittings and qd4 lol. This is after cleaning it.

Also my bp hate continues lol. Guess what i found blue spots throughout out loop, obviously its from the bp royal blue extenders g1/4 ports.


----------



## LiquidHaus

tbrown7552 said:


> @LiquidHaus did you ever get your KP block fitted?


Doing that today, actually!

Also for those messing with 1700 backplates, I'm thinking some cut lengths of 6-32 allthread with existing 6-32 thumbscrews would work. Stacking washers on the pre-mounted threads of the Heatkiller backplate negates the whole point of the backplate increasing the surface area of that mounting pressure.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Doing that today, actually!
> 
> Also for those messing with 1700 backplates, I'm thinking some cut lengths of 6-32 allthread with existing 6-32 thumbscrews would work. Stacking washers on the pre-mounted threads of the Heatkiller backplate negates the whole point of the backplate increasing the surface area of that mounting pressure.


i am interested for sure


----------



## LiquidHaus

About to get started on the KP block install. Gonna be a video of the process to do it.

What's everyone's recommendations on the dip switches on the back before block install? First two switches?


----------



## elbramso

Optimus WC said:


> Yup, email us with your actual name and order number and we'll get the parts sent out


Just recieved the I/O bracket screws this weekend - thanks!


----------



## Edge0fsanity

LiquidHaus said:


> About to get started on the KP block install. Gonna be a video of the process to do it.
> 
> What's everyone's recommendations on the dip switches on the back before block install? First two switches?


I went with all of them.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Optimus block is installed and WOW this thing is insane with how better it is than the Hydro Copper. It's laughable.

Still gotta work on some photos, and I also recorded the whole process. Was a little tricky compared to most block installs, to be completely honest. I can definitely see how people could get confused. 

Quick before and after was 52c load averages with the HC block, and now it's 38c load averages with the Optimus block, not to mention how low the memory temps are now.


----------



## dng25

LiquidHaus said:


> Optimus block is installed and WOW this thing is insane with how better it is than the Hydro Copper. It's laughable.
> 
> Still gotta work on some photos, and I also recorded the whole process. Was a little tricky compared to most block installs, to be completely honest. I can definitely see how people could get confused.
> 
> Quick before and after was 52c load averages with the HC block, and now it's 38c load averages with the Optimus block, not to mention how low the memory temps are now.


I think the hardest part was tightening the block in order for the terminal block to line up. 

And the other thing was use of the color teal and green in the instructions lol.. I had to keep double checking I was looking at the correct ones.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> Optimus block is installed and WOW this thing is insane with how better it is than the Hydro Copper. It's laughable.
> 
> Still gotta work on some photos, and I also recorded the whole process. Was a little tricky compared to most block installs, to be completely honest. I can definitely see how people could get confused.
> 
> Quick before and after was 52c load averages with the HC block, and now it's 38c load averages with the Optimus block, not to mention how low the memory temps are now.


Interesting, I am seeing 14C between core temp and water temp at load with the HC block (35-38C at 72F room temp). 14C between the HC and Optimus block tells me you had a mounting problem with the HC block.

I would flip the NVDD and FBVDD dip switches for core and memory. But it sounds like you’ve already installed the block.


----------



## elbramso

geriatricpollywog said:


> Interesting, I am seeing 14C between core temp and water temp at load with the HC block (35-38C at 72F room temp). 14C between the HC and Optimus block tells me you had a mounting problem with the HC block.
> 
> I would flip the NVDD and FBVDD dip switches for core and memory. But it sounds like you’ve already installed the block.


You and maybe one other person on this planet where able to achieve good results with the Hydrocopper Block 🤣
The rest of us where just having a bad time with this bad block. 

In regards of dip switch. I didn't switch any. If I need the performance I'm going to use classified tool.


----------



## MrFox

elbramso said:


> You and maybe one other person on this planet where able to achieve good results with the Hydrocopper Block 🤣
> The rest of us where just having a bad time with this bad block.
> 
> In regards of dip switch. I didn't switch any. If I need the performance I'm going to use classified tool.


Yeah, my Hydro Copper is a whole lot better than the hybrid piece of crap that came with the K|NGP|N originally, but I agree that it is not an awesome water block. It doesn't cool well enough. Even on chilled water, it can't keep the core cold enough under severe load, so the clocks drop. If it worked well, there would be minimal difference between idle and load temps. I can start a benchmark at 2-5°C and within a few seconds it is hitting 38-40°C and dropping from 2250 to 2175. Really sucks.


----------



## plisskin

Hi guys, do you think this is normal? Is this the expected quality for a 700$ block?? Seems like the fluid is leaking...


----------



## Avacado

plisskin said:


> Hi guys, do you think this is normal? Is this the expected quality for a 700$ block?? Seems like the fluid is leaking...
> 
> View attachment 2544670
> 
> View attachment 2544671


Looks like you didn't tighten it down enough. Try reseating the o-ring.


----------



## plisskin

Avacado said:


> Looks like you didn't tighten it down enough. Try reseating the o-ring.


Hola Avacado, the rear block came assembled. In the manual don't mention that I have to tightteen this screws..

I'll reseat all the block to check again


----------



## satinghostrider

plisskin said:


> Hi guys, do you think this is normal? Is this the expected quality for a 700$ block?? Seems like the fluid is leaking...
> 
> View attachment 2544670
> 
> View attachment 2544671


I have the same problem on my Strix block and I tightened the screws holding the plexi glass on the gaskets prior to filling up my loop. Might have to reseat the gasket again. I emailed Optimus but they didn't tell me what was the torque rating for these screws. They just said to tighten as much as possible without overdoing it. Not sure how to reseat the gaskets procedure wise. Any tips? Wanted to order another gasket but the shipping charge for one item wasn't worth at all.

I can confirm it's not leaking rather it's sweating or something as I constantly wipe the edges and if anything it's a faint trace of my dye in my loop from time to time. Sometimes there isn't even a trace and right now it seems to have dried up. It's an eyesore though. So I can only deduce it could be some sort of silicon oil from the rubber gasket or its something else. My temps are great though. Not sure if it could be my humidity that's causing this as well.


----------



## plisskin

satinghostrider said:


> I have the same problem on my Strix block and I tightened the screws holding the plexi glass on the gaskets prior to filling up my loop. Might have to reseat the gasket again. I emailed Optimus but they didn't tell me what was the torque rating for these screws. They just said to tighten as much as possible without overdoing it. Not sure how to reseat the gaskets procedure wise. Any tips? Wanted to order another gasket but the shipping charge for one item wasn't worth at all.
> 
> I can confirm it's not leaking rather it's sweating or something as I constantly wipe the edges and if anything it's a faint trace of my dye in my loop from time to time. Sometimes there isn't even a trace and right now it seems to have dried up. It's an eyesore though. So I can only deduce it could be some sort of silicon oil from the rubber gasket or its something else. My temps are great though. Not sure if it could be my humidity that's causing this as well.


Thanks Satinghostrider, yes the temps are extremely fantastic. But I never saw this on a block... thats why I dismounted inmediately, because I'm using the graphene solution of Go chiller ( of that I have to say to not use this fluid, I haven't noticed any improve on the thermals.. maybe 0.5 Celsius degree compared to distilled water). 

Today I'll try what you said guys. Thighteen the screws


----------



## satinghostrider

plisskin said:


> Thanks Satinghostrider, yes the temps are extremely fantastic. But I never saw this on a block... thats why I dismounted inmediately, because I'm using the graphene solution of Go chiller ( of that I have to say to not use this fluid, I haven't noticed any improve on the thermals.. maybe 0.5 Celsius degree compared to distilled water).
> 
> Today I'll try what you said guys. Thighteen the screws


Yes but the problem is I have to drain the loop to tighten the screws down properly or perhaps even reseat the gasket. Hope that @Optimus WC can miraculously see this post and shed some light procedurally so we can correct it properly.


----------



## plisskin

satinghostrider said:


> Yes but the problem is I have to drain the loop to tighten the screws down properly or perhaps even reseat the gasket. Hope that @Optimus WC can miraculously see this post and shed some light procedurally so we can correct it properly.


hoping this, because seeing your image I've entered in panic mode 

I don't understant why this is happening, I saw little sweating in a block... but this....

I've send and email to optimus yesterday, but no answer yet.


----------



## satinghostrider

plisskin said:


> hoping this, because seeing your image I've entered in panic mode
> 
> I don't understant why this is happening, I saw little sweating in a block... but this....
> 
> I've send and email to optimus yesterday, but no answer yet.


I also panicked when I saw mine after a few days but it's been close to more than a month now and I can see it's drying up. I mean if it's a leak it will look much worse than what I posted earlier and I probably would see more traces of dye when I wipe the edges where the block and plexi glass mounts. Right now there isn't any more traces when I wipe it to check.

Visually it sucks but the performance has been constant and impressive. Hotspot Delta 6.1-7 degrees max for me constantly till today.

Yeah Optimus support sucks big time. Takes so long for them to reply unless you keep spamming them. Hope they can improve this but hope is a big word.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

elbramso said:


> You and maybe one other person on this planet where able to achieve good results with the Hydrocopper Block 🤣
> The rest of us where just having a bad time with this bad block.
> 
> In regards of dip switch. I didn't switch any. If I need the performance I'm going to use classified tool.


Point taken.

Counterpoint is that I don't have to deal with issues that people are accepting as normal with Optimus GPU blocks. I have enough issues with their CPU block that I switched to my old EK.


----------



## acoustic

satinghostrider said:


> View attachment 2544673


That is ****ed.


----------



## Gunslinger.

LiquidHaus said:


> Optimus block is installed and WOW this thing is insane with how better it is than the Hydro Copper. It's laughable.
> 
> Still gotta work on some photos, and I also recorded the whole process. Was a little tricky compared to most block installs, to be completely honest. I can definitely see how people could get confused.
> 
> Quick before and after was 52c load averages with the HC block, and now it's 38c load averages with the Optimus block, not to mention how low the memory temps are now.


Your HC mount/install had an issue then, I've got the HC and see the same or better temps as you're seeing with your Optimus block.


----------



## iamjanco

@Gunslinger. @tps3443 @geriatricpollywog and anyone else that's been successful using EVGA's HC block on the 3090 KPE; was there ever a consensus regarding the best pads and their sizes (thickness) and/or paste to use with the HC block? How about the stock backplate?

I'm getting ready to switch everything over to a dual MO-RA3 420 Pro setup and I might want to do a repad/repaste while I'm at it. 

TIA!


----------



## tps3443

iamjanco said:


> @Gunslinger. @tps3443 @geriatricpollywog and anyone else that's been successful using EVGA's HC block on the 3090 KPE; was there ever a consensus regarding the best pads and their sizes (thickness) and/or paste to use with the HC block? How about the stock backplate?
> 
> I'm getting ready to switch everything over to a dual MO-RA3 420 Pro setup and I might want to do a repad/repaste while I'm at it.
> 
> TIA!


The stock pads are the best for the front of the GPU. The stock Evga KP HC pads are good quality. I would order the Optimus Fujipoly Kingpin rear full coverage thermalpad. it’s super soft and 3mm thick, and it covers the whole card! They cost about $48 with shipping, which is a great value.


----------



## tps3443

Gunslinger. said:


> Your HC mount/install had an issue then, I've got the HC and see the same or better temps as you're seeing with your Optimus block.


Really? I think I have my 3090KP HC mounted pretty darn well. But, it cannot get close to the Optimus Kingpin block temps I see from others online.


----------



## elbramso

Gunslinger. said:


> Your HC mount/install had an issue then, I've got the HC and see the same or better temps as you're seeing with your Optimus block.


Could we please agree to put load average (in w) and water temperature in statements like this? 
My KPE never hits 38c when I'm under 400w of load. This is with pump and fans @ 30%.


----------



## LiquidHaus

geriatricpollywog said:


> Interesting, I am seeing 14C between core temp and water temp at load with the HC block (35-38C at 72F room temp). 14C between the HC and Optimus block tells me you had a mounting problem with the HC block.
> 
> I would flip the NVDD and FBVDD dip switches for core and memory. But it sounds like you’ve already installed the block.





Gunslinger. said:


> Your HC mount/install had an issue then, I've got the HC and see the same or better temps as you're seeing with your Optimus block.


Hahahahaahaha.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

iamjanco said:


> @Gunslinger. @tps3443 @geriatricpollywog and anyone else that's been successful using EVGA's HC block on the 3090 KPE; was there ever a consensus regarding the best pads and their sizes (thickness) and/or paste to use with the HC block? How about the stock backplate?
> 
> I'm getting ready to switch everything over to a dual MO-RA3 420 Pro setup and I might want to do a repad/repaste while I'm at it.
> 
> TIA!


I used KPx paste and the pads that came with the block. I re-pasted using Thermalright 2mm pads and performance was unchanged.


----------



## Avacado

I can see the red lipstick starting to poke out of the E-Peens right now.


----------



## Section31

So i will stay this much about black ceratoke. Knowing my loop and the ongoing staining going on, the matte black ceratoke strix mid-plate at least doesn't show visible signs of any of that material showing. Gasket however


----------



## tps3443

Considering how uninteresting and delayed the 3090Ti is. I may still grab the Optimus 3090 KP block.


----------



## warbucks

chibi said:


> Who was it that posted they used an EKWB backplate with their Opt cpu block? @Section31 - I also have a spare Heatkiller backplate that I was going to use. Didn't test fit it yet but glad you did. Now I know it doesn't work lol.


I'm using the EKWB 1700 backplate with the Sig v2.


----------



## criskoe

plisskin said:


> Hi guys, do you think this is normal? Is this the expected quality for a 700$ block?? Seems like the fluid is leaking...
> 
> View attachment 2544670
> 
> View attachment 2544671


When looking back in this thread of peoples KP blocks when they first got them, They all had that same weird random spots of black bleeding look to them on the back even before they ran water through them. Look back at @HyperMatrix card. It had a ton of that going on.

Also if you look at past posts from Optimus themselves. They posted what a "correctly assembled" block was supposed to look like and it has those very same leaky looking black spots outside of the oring...

I clearly remember cause I thought it looked horrible and was surprised no one said anything at the time...


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

criskoe said:


> When looking back in this thread of peoples KP blocks when they first got them, They all had that same weird random spots of black bleeding look to them on the back even before they ran water through them. Look back at @HyperMatrix card. It had a ton of that going on.
> 
> Also if you look at past posts from Optimus themselves. They posted what a "correctly assembled" block was supposed to look like and it has those very same leaky looking black spots outside of the oring...
> 
> I clearly remember cause I thought it looked horrible and was surprised no one said anything at the time...
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2544770


I thought I was the only one seeing that on the pic they showed! Didn’t say anything because everyone would be “ohhh it’s that guy again talking **** about optimus”
I think from the 5-8 guys I’ve seen post their optimus blocks 1-2 didn’t have some kind of issue or bleeding or some crap.


----------



## criskoe

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I thought I was the only one seeing that on the pic they showed! Didn’t say anything because everyone would be “ohhh it’s that guy again talking **** about optimus”
> I think from the 5-8 guys I’ve seen post their optimus blocks 1-2 didn’t have some kind of issue or bleeding or some crap.


Yeah I didnt say anything for a few reasons. One being, I had not ordered or had planned to order one of those blocks. So what I think looks bad doesn't really matter.. Plus considering how long these folks had been waiting for the block, I didnt want to rain on their parade after finally getting the block.. LOL... I decided to just not say anything and I left it up to them to decide if that looks good or not. 

I personally don't like it at all. But with that said. It clearly is a top performer so it will have some value to alot of folks no matter how it looks.... 

I air pressure test all my gear before I use it. If the block holds air then im sure its fine....


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> So i will stay this much about black ceratoke. Knowing my loop and the ongoing staining going on, the matte black ceratoke strix mid-plate at least doesn't show visible signs of any of that material showing. Gasket however
> 
> View attachment 2544756


I really think this is just inevitable with white gaskets... On my most recent tear down. I noticed the two white orings that come with the EK TBE tube res on the top and bottom of the tube also turned that yellow color on the inside where it contacts the coolant... But everything else in the system is perfectly clean still. Used mayhems XT-1 V2.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> I really think this is just inevitable with white gaskets... On my most recent tear down. I noticed the two white orings that come with the EK TBE tube res on the top and bottom of the tube also turned that yellow color on the inside where it contacts the coolant... But everything else in the system is perfectly clean still. Used mayhems XT-1 V2.


I ended up ordering two black one with fitting replacement in the process (will replace down the road when i replace the mo-ra3).


----------



## Section31

warbucks said:


> I'm using the EKWB 1700 backplate with the Sig v2.


I got one of them coming too to use too.


----------



## LiquidHaus

anything white in a loop is always the most at risk for discoloration, which obviously is unfortunate since white can look so clean if pulled off correctly. I've wasted a good amount of Ice Dragon back in the day due to negligence, assuming components were clean when they actually had a smidge of another fluid still within them. Ice Dragon would absorb that color instantly and the perfect white would be gone lol.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> anything white in a loop is always the most at risk for discoloration, which obviously is unfortunate since white can look so clean if pulled off correctly. I've wasted a good amount of Ice Dragon back in the day due to negligence, assuming components were clean when they actually had a smidge of another fluid still within them. Ice Dragon would absorb that color instantly and the perfect white would be gone lol.


True. I got black ones coming. In my case i’m certain something up on the mo-ra3 side when the fittings including qd4 and optimus fittings have been stained (and my pc isn’t on much)


----------



## D-EJ915

satinghostrider said:


> I have the same problem on my Strix block and I tightened the screws holding the plexi glass on the gaskets prior to filling up my loop. Might have to reseat the gasket again. I emailed Optimus but they didn't tell me what was the torque rating for these screws. They just said to tighten as much as possible without overdoing it. Not sure how to reseat the gaskets procedure wise. Any tips? Wanted to order another gasket but the shipping charge for one item wasn't worth at all.
> 
> I can confirm it's not leaking rather it's sweating or something as I constantly wipe the edges and if anything it's a faint trace of my dye in my loop from time to time. Sometimes there isn't even a trace and right now it seems to have dried up. It's an eyesore though. So I can only deduce it could be some sort of silicon oil from the rubber gasket or its something else. My temps are great though. Not sure if it could be my humidity that's causing this as well.


It's up in the screws in the terminal too? Pretty weird and special for sure.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I thought I was the only one seeing that on the pic they showed! Didn’t say anything because everyone would be “ohhh it’s that guy again talking **** about optimus”
> I think from the 5-8 guys I’ve seen post their optimus blocks 1-2 didn’t have some kind of issue or bleeding or some crap.


My block was the same and its gotten much worse on the backplate block to the point I've been concerned about fluid seeping out. Been wiping along the edges of the block every few days, so far no green fluid on the paper towel. Would be nice if @Optimus WC would comment on what this is.


----------



## plisskin

satinghostrider said:


> I also panicked when I saw mine after a few days but it's been close to more than a month now and I can see it's drying up. I mean if it's a leak it will look much worse than what I posted earlier and I probably would see more traces of dye when I wipe the edges where the block and plexi glass mounts. Right now there isn't any more traces when I wipe it to check.
> 
> Visually it sucks but the performance has been constant and impressive. Hotspot Delta 6.1-7 degrees max for me constantly till today.
> 
> Yeah Optimus support sucks big time. Takes so long for them to reply unless you keep spamming them. Hope they can improve this but hope is a big word.


Hi Satin, 

look at the pictures, my front block doesn't have this "sweating" but the rear active block I've found something very bad. I've checked all the sealing rubber and I noticed that there are irregular. 
yesterday I disassembled it and saw that there was liquid inside the rubber compartment. 

I think this is a problem with the rubber design, maybe it is poorly made... I don't know but the fact is I've ever seen this leaks in any block. Are you sure you don't have any leak??

Hoping @Optimus WC check their email or visit the forum ASAP... I think this leaks could be dangerous for the system

here check the rubber measures... 










here yo can see that the block doesn't have any leak failure


----------



## Avacado

Edge0fsanity said:


> My block was the same and its gotten much worse on the backplate block to the point I've been concerned about fluid seeping out. Been wiping along the edges of the block every few days, so far no green fluid on the paper towel. Would be nice if @Optimus WC would comment on what this is.
> 
> View attachment 2544850
> 
> View attachment 2544849


If it isn't coolant, the only thing I could possibly think it would be is condensate. It is fair to assume that it is a possibility with the temperature gradient of the coolant and GPU condensing water vapor underneath the acrylic. Though that seal should be so tight that it doesn't allow for enough air to get in there in the first place so 🤷‍♂️


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Avacado said:


> If it isn't coolant, the only thing I could possibly think it would be is condensate. It is fair to assume that it is a possibility with the temperature gradient of the coolant and GPU condensing water vapor underneath the acrylic. Though that seal should be so tight that it doesn't allow for enough air to get in there in the first place so 🤷‍♂️


I'll be pulling it apart at some point in the future when I do hard tube in the build to find out for sure. I really hope this doesn't turn out to be a defective block. I just sold my strix w/optimus block a few days ago because I'm using my KPE in my main system so no backup...


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Idk looking/hearing all these stories at this point it seems to me that optimus ****ed it up somewhere in the process but was already waaaaay behind and not to lose customers they shipped it out regardless. Now you basically have a $600 block that in some (out of 8 guys 6 have some kind of issue bigger or smaller) instances looks horrible (like satinghostguy,pliss etc etc..).
Plus as I see optimus yet once again is nowhere to be seen or heard,I mean if everyone is yelling/screaming to get your **** together regarding customer service/support one would think after 1-2 years you’d get your ****ing **** together finally???
Idk how others see it but if I payed $600,plus you were bs’ing me for 6 months I want my block to be 10000% in perfect shape/condition whatever you want to call it! Some might say “ohhhh well it works atleast,it’s not that bad” [email protected] that…I can go buy a brand new car to later see it’s scratched but one could say “ohhh well it’s gets you from point A to B,it’s ok I guess”

I know for myself personally that optimus saw with the strix block my last cent! Plus I use my pc purely for gaming and stocks,the games are getting ****tier with every new release and for stocks I can use my ipad or laptop. So paying absurd amounts of money for something that’s (gaming) dying out (not talking about that crap fortnight,valorant) I mean true games like RDR2,GTA etc I don’t need a pc to be quite honest. So giving a company a **** load of money and looking how they don’t give a **** about anything ehhhhh no thanks…ohhhhhhh we don’t want to start about the manifactured shortages so big guys can make money that’s a complete new issue. I have money but can’t buy anything or wait 8 months,idk but pc and pc gaming for me is dying it’s just not worth it. That’s just me and my opinion



BTW I ****ed up,so as my gaming monitor I have the LG C1 48” which ofc is native 4k. So after DLDSR came out ofc I’m going to try it,so I turn on my fav game RDR2 and go to DLDSR 2.25x and DLSS off…fuuuuuuuuuuuk it’s like going from 1080p to 4k but this time just 4k to idk what 2.25x makes it. But the crispyness,clarity basically everything is 10x better. That’s great,but my 3090 can’t handle that res with everything on max,it’s 20ish fps ofc if you lower it it isn’t the same anymore 🙁 now I don’t want to play any game if it’s not DLDSR 2.25. Currently playing BF1 DLDSR 2.25x and it’s maxed out and easily 60fps plus,god it’s so beautiful…

Now I’m tired,see you again in 1-2 weeks online friends 😊


----------



## Avacado

Edge0fsanity said:


> I'll be pulling it apart at some point in the future when I do hard tube in the build to find out for sure. I really hope this doesn't turn out to be a defective block. I just sold my strix w/optimus block a few days ago because I'm using my KPE in my main system so no backup...


I doubt the block is defective. More probable that the O-ring is defective. Even more probable that the measurement of it is off and does not create a perfect seal. That is my bet. Though I seriously doubt you would see Optimus own up to it. More likely to fix it moving forward in different iterations of the block.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Avacado said:


> I doubt the block is defective. More probable that the O-ring is defective. Even more probably that the measurement of it is off and does not create a perfect seal. That is my bet. Though I seriously doubt you would see Optimus own up to it. More likely to fix it moving forward in different iterations of the block.


I am going to try emailing them soon. I haven't had issues with their support in the past, they just take a few days to respond. I think they will see more and more noise on this seepage issue as more people receive and install blocks. Its a bit unnerving seeing this and having to worry about killing my card which will be impossible to obtain a replacement for.


----------



## criskoe

plisskin said:


> Hi Satin,
> 
> look at the pictures, my front block doesn't have this "sweating" but the rear active block I've found something very bad. I've checked all the sealing rubber and I noticed that there are irregular.
> yesterday I disassembled it and saw that there was liquid inside the rubber compartment.
> 
> I think this is a problem with the rubber design, maybe it is poorly made... I don't know but the fact is I've ever seen this leaks in any block. Are you sure you don't have any leak??
> 
> Hoping @Optimus WC check their email or visit the forum ASAP... I think this leaks could be dangerous for the system
> 
> here check the rubber measures...
> 
> View attachment 2544851
> 
> 
> here yo can see that the block doesn't have any leak failure
> 
> 
> View attachment 2544852


Do you have any tools to air pressure test it while its out out of the system??... That would be your best bet to see if its a issue... If it holds air its totally fine...


----------



## plisskin

Avacado said:


> I doubt the block is defective. More probable that the O-ring is defective. Even more probably that the measurement of it is off and does not create a perfect seal. That is my bet. Though I seriously doubt you would see Optimus own up to it. More likely to fix it moving forward in different iterations of the block.


I think this too, the o-ring measure is deffective and don't seal propperly.

But guys, a simple thing as an o.ring compared with the rest of the block why they let this things happen..



criskoe said:


> Do you have any tools to air pressure test it while its out out of the system??... That would be your best bet to see if its a issue... If it holds air its totally fine...


no... but I also ask to my colegues if some of them have any EK tester.


----------



## criskoe

plisskin said:


> no... but I also ask to my colegues if some of them have any EK tester.


I suggest getting something... They are super handy to have to test your new gear individually. Saved me lots of head aches. I did initially buy a EK tester but the thing was crap.. Leaked air itself and the gauge was not easy to read. I mean they put a black needle on a black background! LOL.. Dum dums..... And if you touch it at all it causes the needed to bounce around. Very hard to get accurate readings... 

I ended up tearing the whole thing apart and with some pneumatic thread sealer, I added a digital gauge. Doesnt leak air anymore and is much much easier to read. I can easily see even the smallest drop in air pressure..


----------



## plisskin

criskoe said:


> I suggest getting something... They are super handy to have to test your new gear individually. Saved me lots of head aches. I did initially buy a EK tester but the thing was crap.. Leaked air itself and the gauge was not easy to read. I mean they put a black needle on a black background! LOL.. Dum dums..... And if you touch it at all it causes the needed to bounce around. Very hard to get accurate readings...
> 
> I ended up tearing the whole thing apart and with some pneumatic thread sealer, I added a digital gauge. Doesnt leak air anymore and is much much easier to read. I can easily see even the smallest drop in air pressure..
> 
> View attachment 2544862


LOOL... 
I just bought a unit from ek since it's the fastest I get... If it doesn't work fine i'll try to fix like you or return to the shop.


----------



## Section31

Avacado said:


> I doubt the block is defective. More probable that the O-ring is defective. Even more probable that the measurement of it is off and does not create a perfect seal. That is my bet. Though I seriously doubt you would see Optimus own up to it. More likely to fix it moving forward in different iterations of the block.


It happened to me on my Strix when i was dissembling everything. So far been trying to clean it up but its minor thing among everything that occured during that failed experiment. I'm just anal on stains,etc that's all.

However i suspect in my case, because i've been using eraser to clean up all those copperish stains on the gasket o-ring couple times, it was inevitable, i probably thinned out parts of the o-ring. Got to live with what i have and when viable replacements options are available (560mm rads from watercool/optimus), rebuild an external radiator using the mini-mora method done by reddit user Cennis2018 with watercool 2 x 240 L Rads (lot of repurposing of mo-ra3 parts).

@Sir Beregond and others

Further Update on Mayhem XTR 4nm. It did leave white stain my Optimus GPU Block however, its easy to clean and probably did its job of reducing the copperish/brass elements in my loop from the Mo-Ra3. Seeing Copperish and cleaning it up is an pain (can't 100% clean up my Optimus Fittings). As long as this rig in service, will need mayhem xtr 4nm. Replacing the Mo-Ra3 is not really an option (doesn't make sense either considering its really old product).

Bitspower fittings (white/royal blue) paint really does chip easily even the g1/4 extenders. I found blue paint on the g1/4 threads on blocks and some of the ekwb torque 90 upon disassembly. Definitely need to replace them when I do the next build and better options come out.


----------



## chibi

Section - regarding your fittings staining, does dropping them into your ultrasonic cleaner help remove it?

@iamjanco - I recall seeing you ultrasonic clean you bp fittings before. Did you use anything else with the liquid? Or just distilled?


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> @Sir Beregond and others
> 
> Further Update on Mayhem XTR 4nm. It did leave white stain my Optimus GPU Block however, its easy to clean and probably did its job of reducing the copperish/brass elements in my loop from the Mo-Ra3. Seeing Copperish and cleaning it up is an pain (can't 100% clean up my Optimus Fittings). As long as this rig in service, will need mayhem xtr 4nm. Replacing the Mo-Ra3 is not really an option (doesn't make sense either considering its really old product).
> 
> Bitspower fittings (white/royal blue) paint really does chip easily even the g1/4 extenders. I found blue paint on the g1/4 threads on blocks and some of the ekwb torque 90 upon disassembly. Definitely need to replace them when I do the next build and better options come out.


Thanks for the info. I decided not to roll the dice on opaque fluid and opted for some ModMyMods ModWater Clear. Should be here tomorrow. Now will need to find some white acrylic.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Section - regarding your fittings staining, does dropping them into your ultrasonic cleaner help remove it?
> 
> @iamjanco - I recall seeing you ultrasonic clean you bp fittings before. Did you use anything else with the liquid? Or just distilled?


Only helps an little, Some of it is permanently stuck. I may need to buy the more expensive (heavy duty ones) and heavier solution (using Dawn only per Optimus). Most of it easily wipable with cloth/paper towel so don't need heavy duty scrubbing.


----------



## Section31

Section31 said:


> Only helps an little, Some of it is permanently stuck. I may need to buy the more expensive (heavy duty ones) and heavier solution (using Dawn only per Optimus). Most of it easily wipable with cloth/paper towel so don't need heavy duty scrubbing.


Probably cheaper just to buy new fittings when you do maintenance orders. That or buy them from PPCS whenever they have sales on BF/CM/Xmas season.


----------



## Avacado

Section31 said:


> Probably cheaper just to buy new fittings when you do maintenance orders. That or buy them from PPCS whenever they have sales on BF/CM/Xmas season.


Did you just quote yourself and answer yourself?


----------



## Section31

Avacado said:


> Did you just quote yourself and answer yourself?


Maybe lol. I was talking with Chibi lol (I have other means of talking with Chibi/Shawnb99).


----------



## Section31

@bscool The optimus watercooling canadian group out in bc area all have some sort of private communication among ourselves.

We all endup getting eachother to spend on stuff we never planned to. Bunch of enuthiast.


----------



## LiquidHaus

The gasket issues would be easily fixed with a newer thicker spec gasket. Same idea and implementation, just like, a 1mm thicker (or taller I should say). So far I haven't had any issues with the gasket other than vapor slowly seeping into the logo, right underneath the cold plate. It's surrounded by thick gasket material but vapor is indeed seeping it's way into that isolated dry spot for their logo. Not really a big deal, as long as it's not fully leaking out from that gasket.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> The gasket issues would be easily fixed with a newer thicker spec gasket. Same idea and implementation, just like, a 1mm thicker (or taller I should say). So far I haven't had any issues with the gasket other than vapor slowly seeping into the logo, right underneath the cold plate. It's surrounded by thick gasket material but vapor is indeed seeping it's way into that isolated dry spot for their logo. Not really a big deal, as long as it's not fully leaking out from that gasket.


Yeah. I think some of us here are just super anal. Some of us are more vocals than others as well some less. I think its no big deal increasingly. Just clean it up every once in a while. Chances are we will be rebuilding over next couple years and by then most items we use now will be replaced.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Thanks for the info. I decided not to roll the dice on opaque fluid and opted for some ModMyMods ModWater Clear. Should be here tomorrow. Now will need to find some white acrylic.












After cleaning up. Still some stuff but mayhem probably made it easier


----------



## satinghostrider

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2544965
> 
> 
> After cleaning up. Still some stuff but mayhem probably made it easier


When re-applyng your rubber gaskets back, do you wet it in water before placing it in or you just install it dry? TIA!


----------



## Section31

satinghostrider said:


> When re-applyng your rubber gaskets back, do you wet it in water before placing it in or you just install it dry? TIA!


Installed it dry. I wash it before reusing lol. Don’t want eraser bits in your block lol.


----------



## Section31

satinghostrider said:


> When re-applyng your rubber gaskets back, do you wet it in water before placing it in or you just install it dry? TIA!


Curious where that photo of your rig from. It seems so familiar building wise lol. Seems like i have been in that building but probably the lower level floors only.

Doesn’t look like the normal computer malls either. I used to go to the funan one all the time while i was in singapore. Mainly to buy games and look at the warhammer 40000/king and country shop there.


----------



## Ironsmack

criskoe said:


> I suggest getting something... They are super handy to have to test your new gear individually. Saved me lots of head aches. I did initially buy a EK tester but the thing was crap.. Leaked air itself and the gauge was not easy to read. I mean they put a black needle on a black background! LOL.. Dum dums..... And if you touch it at all it causes the needed to bounce around. Very hard to get accurate readings...
> 
> I ended up tearing the whole thing apart and with some pneumatic thread sealer, I added a digital gauge. Doesnt leak air anymore and is much much easier to read. I can easily see even the smallest drop in air pressure..
> 
> View attachment 2544862



Where did you get the digital gauge? Or at least, what is it called and what size is the fitting end?

I also have the EK pressure tester and i havent experience any air leaks so far with the tester, but just in case i do - i have an idea for replacement.

I just bought my FTW block and reading the last few pages, im worried about it experiencing the same "sweating" of the block.

Good thing i haven't cancelled my Heatkiller block purchase yet.


----------



## satinghostrider

Section31 said:


> Curious where that photo of your rig from. It seems so familiar building wise lol. Seems like i have been in that building but probably the lower level floors only.
> 
> Doesn’t look like the normal computer malls either. I used to go to the funan one all the time while i was in singapore. Mainly to buy games and look at the warhammer 40000/king and country shop there.


My PC shop is at Peninsula Shopping Centre maybe that's why it's familiar as it's next door to Funan centre lol! 😊


----------



## criskoe

Ironsmack said:


> Where did you get the digital gauge? Or at least, what is it called and what size is the fitting end?
> 
> I also have the EK pressure tester and i havent experience any air leaks so far with the tester, but just in case i do - i have an idea for replacement.
> 
> I just bought my FTW block and reading the last few pages, im worried about it experiencing the same "sweating" of the block.
> 
> Good thing i haven't cancelled my Heatkiller block purchase yet.


From what I’ve seen some of the ek leak testers are ok and some are leaky. I got myn when it was first released so maybe that’s why. Who knows. I still hated the gauge it came with it. So hard to read and touching the tester while testing causes the needle to move.

With that said if yours is working fine just leave it be. 

I got that digital gauge from amazon. There is a bunch of different ones. Your looking for one that has Accurate low pressure testing. Like .2 bar and up. As for the threads im not exactly sure what it is. I think I went with the 1/4 npt. Important thing is you use proper air pneumatic / hydraulic thread sealant and let it fully cure before use.


----------



## Section31

satinghostrider said:


> My PC shop is at Peninsula Shopping Centre maybe that's why it's familiar as it's next door to Funan centre lol! 😊


No wonder lol. I passed by that place all the time lol. Used to walk home occasionally from work at china town point to scott’s road.


----------



## Biggu

criskoe said:


> From what I’ve seen some of the ek leak testers are ok and some are leaky. I got myn when it was first released so maybe that’s why. Who knows. I still hated the gauge it came with it. So hard to read and touching the tester while testing causes the needle to move.
> 
> With that said if yours is working fine just leave it be.
> 
> I got that digital gauge from amazon. There is a bunch of different ones. Your looking for one that has Accurate low pressure testing. Like .2 bar and up. As for the threads im not exactly sure what it is. I think I went with the 1/4 npt. Important thing is you use proper air pneumatic / hydraulic thread sealant and let it fully cure before use.


Do you mind sharing the gauge model number you got? Ive got an EK leak tester as well and the damn thing is junk. I might do like you and take it apart completely and thread seal and put a digital gauge. I cant ever tell currently if its leaking from the EK or the part it self so I dont even bother.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2544965
> 
> 
> After cleaning up. Still some stuff but mayhem probably made it easier


Huh, didn't realize Optimus made the GPU blocks with an acetal option.


----------



## Avacado

Sir Beregond said:


> Huh, didn't realize Optimus made the GPU blocks with an acetal option.


Thought that was matte black not acetal.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Avacado said:


> Thought that was matte black not acetal.


That makes more sense. Thought that was a weird area to be acetal.


----------



## iamjanco

chibi said:


> Section - regarding your fittings staining, does dropping them into your ultrasonic cleaner help remove it?
> 
> @iamjanco - I recall seeing you ultrasonic clean you bp fittings before. Did you use anything else with the liquid? Or just distilled?


Sorry, just saw this--plain, distilled is what I use. I heat the water up before using it.


----------



## dwolvin

I always throw a little white vinegar in my cleaner with the distilled- like 5%. seems to help.


----------



## iamjanco

Could be beneficial, especially if cleaning fittings that have been used already.

Just need a good rinse after.


----------



## plisskin

After 5 hours with de leak tester it lost 0,01 bar from 1 bar total. Seems a little leak, dont' you?


----------



## iamjanco

Reminds me a bit of the Yuel Beast Atlas:






*Link*.


----------



## LiquidHaus

iamjanco said:


> Reminds me a bit of the Yuel Beast Atlas:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Link*.


Unreal. 2.76 pounds. Seems like a package deal though. Vince said his 3090Ti KP's will be available soon, so I am curious about how they'll sell them. Package deal only? I want just the chassis. I'll wait for the 40 series KP, not even gonna bother with this 3090Ti.


----------



## dwolvin

Cool looking, but I would only buy as a stand alone (not that I hate EVGA).


----------



## Section31

After some ultrasonic cleaning involving dish detergent, optimus fitting getting cleaner. Probably need stronger machine.

Also need to replace the Mo-Ra3 when suitable diy external rad replacement is on the market. 

However you can see what happens to the g1/4 threads of ekwb satin titanium torque, optimus, and bitspower. Bitspower chips paints the most.

@Optimus Will replace with your rotary and extenders whenever you release them.


----------



## Urez

Sir Beregond said:


> Huh, didn't realize Optimus made the GPU blocks with an acetal option.


They made custom (like "OEM") order for professional graphics workstation vendor


Spoiler: Renderboxes


----------



## Jsunn

My KPE block is on order, watching this thread closely.


----------



## D-EJ915

Urez said:


> They made custom (like "OEM") order for professional graphics workstation vendor


Those look a lot nicer than what we get, hope they make them available sometime.


----------



## criskoe

Biggu said:


> Do you mind sharing the gauge model number you got? Ive got an EK leak tester as well and the damn thing is junk. I might do like you and take it apart completely and thread seal and put a digital gauge. I cant ever tell currently if its leaking from the EK or the part it self so I dont even bother.


Weird. The gauge doesn't actually have a part number on it sorry... . Its the Measureman 2-1/2" Lower Short thread 0-200 psi according to my amazon purchase history.


----------



## iamjanco

Something to keep in mind when testing for leaks using a pressure gauge (*source*): 



> *Pressure Testing with Air versus with Water*
> 
> Pressure Testing with Air versus Pressure Testing with Water to detect leakage is a common practice in our industry. We are often asked why air testing must be done at lower pressures than water testing. To find leaks, a low pressure (30-50 PSI) air test is just as effective as high pressure (150 PSI) water test. This is because the viscosity and surface tension of water is greater than that of air. For example, the viscosity of water is about 89 times greater than the viscosity of air. Viscosity is the internal friction of water making it resist the tendency to flow, particularly through a small opening. And, while the surface tension of a water to air surface is 0.005 lb. ft./ft., the air has no surface tension. Both viscosity and surface tension are forces that will prevent water from escaping through even a very small hole, forces that do not prevent air from escaping through the same size hole. Therefore, many times systems show a leak with a high-pressure air test when in actuality no water is leaking.


Keep in mind that while you might find you've got a fairly slow leak testing using air, that doesn't necessarily mean the same seals will leak under pressure when using liquids.

Also see: *How to Recognize and Avoid the Common Causes of O-ring Failure*

Fyi/fwiw: *the gauge in my kit*:


----------



## elbramso

I'm still wondering if I should go for LM on my card with the optimus block. I'm not sure if it's worth it. Disassembling the block doesn't look like it's going to be fun and I've never used LM on a gpu before. 
Someone who has already done it may give some insight and pictures maybe to change my mind 😉
I'm wondering if it's possible to leave the active backplate in place and only remove the gpu die side cover?


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

elbramso said:


> I'm still wondering if I should go for LM on my card with the optimus block. I'm not sure if it's worth it. Disassembling the block doesn't look like it's going to be fun and I've never used LM on a gpu before.
> Someone who has already done it may give some insight and pictures maybe to change my mind 😉
> I'm wondering if it's possible to leave the active backplate in place and only remove the gpu die side cover?



I use LM and it’s pretty straight forward and easy to do. I can’t tell you the difference between paste/LM since I only always use LM on both GPU and CPU. But my temps are awesome now is it worth disassembling your whole block to put LM on I’m not sure to be honest. If you’re happy with your temps now LM won’t give you a extra 5 degrees less. 
I know it’s our hobby but running after 0.02 degrees cooler temps will just kill the fun out of the hobby. I know for myself,you have a initial plan/build/setup then constantly “What if I do this,maybe that etc etc…” you’ll always have that. 

Maybe somebody else who used paste and switched to LM can tell you the exact temp difference but as I see it disassembling the whole block,draining etc…it’s def not worth it


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Guys

Did anyone ever try or has used or uses a waterchiller for your cooling? I’ve came across a guy saying it destroys a MORA and plus you don’t need fans because the waterchiller does it automatically?!
I’ve never heard about using a waterchiller to cool your water temps but I’m seeing that quite a bit of people are saying it’s the best thing ever,so I’m curious.


----------



## elbramso

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Guys
> 
> Did anyone ever try or has used or uses a waterchiller for your cooling? I’ve came across a guy saying it destroys a MORA and plus you don’t need fans because the waterchiller does it automatically?!
> I’ve never heard about using a waterchiller to cool your water temps but I’m seeing that quite a bit of people are saying it’s the best thing ever,so I’m curious.


Water chiller vs Mo-ra isn't a fair competition. 
You need a ton of extra energy for a chiller to go sub ambient and it isn't nearly as silent as a mo-ra.


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Guys
> 
> Did anyone ever try or has used or uses a waterchiller for your cooling? I’ve came across a guy saying it destroys a MORA and plus you don’t need fans because the waterchiller does it automatically?!
> I’ve never heard about using a waterchiller to cool your water temps but I’m seeing that quite a bit of people are saying it’s the best thing ever,so I’m curious.


Well yeah....even if you have 1000x Mo-Ra3 units running, and the pumps/fans in them magically created no heat of their own, the best they could do is get your water temperature "close" to ambient room temp. Water chiller can be sub-ambient. So if your room is 23c, you could have it chill the water to 20C. You'd need a very heavy duty unit used for aquarium setups. I had one before. I don't recommend it as it is very big and very loud. Basically think of it as an AC unit for water. Unless you can run the tubing for it to a sound proof room/closet that is also air conditioned as just like AC units it creates a ton of heat, I wouldn't recommend it.

Good for bench runs or if doing custom house setup for a gaming room. But not practical for 24/7 gaming. There are smaller and more compact units like the ones from Koolance. But they're super expensive compared to the aquarium water chiller solution, and have limited cooling capacity. I really don't think they've put out any models yet that would be able to keep up with a 1000W heat load from GPU/CPU.

Technically you could create your Mo-Ra3 setup. Then take a portable AC unit, and have it blow directly on the Mo-Ra3. Since the performance of a radiator is based on the difference between liquid temperature and ambient air temperature, you could get sub-ambient temperatures that way. An AC unit is also very loud and needs somewhere to exhaust heat. I do have one in my computer room, along with whole house AC, to keep ambients in check. Although I don't have it blowing directly on my rig.


----------



## Section31

So after lot of manual cleaning got the fittings almost completely clean. Need to invest more into stronger ultrasonic plus tools to scrub it.

Just ordered one of the dental/medical ultrasonic units off amazon and wire brush to clean those hard to reach places.


----------



## Rei86

Section31 said:


> So after lot of manual cleaning got the fittings almost completely clean. Need to invest more into stronger ultrasonic plus tools to scrub it.
> 
> Just ordered one of the dental/medical ultrasonic units off amazon and wire brush to clean those hard to reach places.


Wonder if you can use resin cleaners on blocks like that get gunked up.
Because I highly doubt anything is as strong as burnt on sap on glass.


----------



## Section31

Rei86 said:


> Wonder if you can use resin cleaners on blocks like that get gunked up.
> Because I highly doubt anything is as strong as burnt on sap on glass.


Short term solution. Mo-Ra3 needs to be replaced when optimus 560mm rads release.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Guys
> 
> Did anyone ever try or has used or uses a waterchiller for your cooling? I’ve came across a guy saying it destroys a MORA and plus you don’t need fans because the waterchiller does it automatically?!
> I’ve never heard about using a waterchiller to cool your water temps but I’m seeing that quite a bit of people are saying it’s the best thing ever,so I’m curious.


I put my MO-RA outside in sub-zero temperatures when benchmarking and it holds up to -13C temps just fine. If you using a chiller, any kind of passive radiator will just heat up the loop.


----------



## asdf893

Section31 said:


> So after lot of manual cleaning got the fittings almost completely clean. Need to invest more into stronger ultrasonic plus tools to scrub it.
> 
> Just ordered one of the dental/medical ultrasonic units off amazon and wire brush to clean those hard to reach places.


I haven't been in this thread for a while but I'm curious what did you have to clean from your fittings and blocks? I have this gunky clear/off-white resin that's slowly clogging my blocks and I have no idea where it came from.


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> I haven't been in this thread for a while but I'm curious what did you have to clean from your fittings and blocks? I have this gunky clear/off-white resin that's slowly clogging my blocks and I have no idea where it came from.


I don’t know the exact source but its some sort of corrosion i suspect. Eliminated source by source with brass tubing being major source (replaced everything except the mo-ra3). White stuff can just be solution residue. Sometimes its just an wild goose chase.

Brass/Copper Staining on Blocks/Fittings is green/black/yellowish/bronze based color from my understanding.


----------



## Section31

My question for the individual using ekwb lga1700 backplate on sig v2. What mounting hardware and mods did you use

It works in principle test but for practical on mobo optimus mounting hardware not long enough


----------



## ciarlatano

asdf893 said:


> I haven't been in this thread for a while but I'm curious what did you have to clean from your fittings and blocks? I have this gunky clear/off-white resin that's slowly clogging my blocks and I have no idea where it came from.


What coolant are you using? Cryofuel has a nasty habit of doing exactly what you are describing.


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> My question for the individual using ekwb lga1700 backplate on sig v2. What mounting hardware and mods did you use
> It works in principle test but for practical on mobo optimus mounting hardware not long enough


You need the mounting posts as well, not just the backplate. I think this is the compatible one:









EK-Quantum Velocity PreciseMount - Black


EK-Quantum Velocity PreciseMount is a universal mounting mechanism for EK-Quantum Velocity CPU water blocks that offers error-preventing, tool-less installation. The result is a perfect installation, which results in perfect performance every time.




www.ekwb.com


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> You need the mounting posts as well, not just the backplate. I think this is the compatible one:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK-Quantum Velocity PreciseMount - Black
> 
> 
> EK-Quantum Velocity PreciseMount is a universal mounting mechanism for EK-Quantum Velocity CPU water blocks that offers error-preventing, tool-less installation. The result is a perfect installation, which results in perfect performance every time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ekwb.com


Probably Next Order with PPCS for me then. Will use the existing Optimus Mounting for now that i got my replacement mobo.


----------



## rzelek506

Hi Everyone, new to the forum here, so I haven't read this very long thread and sorry if this same question was already answered earlier:

I have the Optimus FTW3 block on my 3090, but it has accumulated some brown material on where the gasket meets the acrylic (see below image).
The block has been functioning fine otherwise.

I cleaned my components before putting them in the loop and I already cleaned off that brown material from the GPU block once, while switching between the nickel midplate and cerakote midplate. But the material came back on the block and now seems even worse.
Contacted Optimus but they didn't seem to know exactly what was causing the material buildup at this location, and that it could have been a number of parts shedding in my loop.
They suggested that I clean off the material and replace the white gasket with a black gasket, but I'm not sure if that is a short-term solution or a long-term solution for the issue.

Does anyone else have the same issue or have an idea as to how to permanently prevent the brown material buildup (listed below are the materials in my loop)?
If not, then I'll just have to do what Optimus said and reclean then try a black gasket and hope that either prevents or hides the material from showing up again.

Here is what is in my loop:

GPU block: Absolute FTW3 (Cerakote and Nickel cold plate)
CPU block: Foundation Intel (Cerakote and Raw copper cold plate)
Coolant: Corsair XL8 Blue (copper/brass/nickel)
Pump/res: Corsair XD5 (copper/brass)
Rads - 360mm x2: Corsair XR5 (copper/brass)
Rad -120mm: PrimoChill EximoSX Slim Radiator (copper/brass)
Fittings: Corsair XF 10/13mm (brass)


----------



## Section31

rzelek506 said:


> Hi Everyone, new to the forum here, so I haven't read this very long thread and sorry if this same question was already answered earlier:
> 
> I have the Optimus FTW3 block on my 3090, but it has accumulated some brown material on where the gasket meets the acrylic (see below image).
> The block has been functioning fine otherwise.
> 
> I cleaned my components before putting them in the loop and I already cleaned off that brown material from the GPU block once, while switching between the nickel midplate and cerakote midplate. But the material came back on the block and now seems even worse.
> Contacted Optimus but they didn't seem to know exactly what was causing the material buildup at this location, and that it could have been a number of parts shedding in my loop.
> They suggested that I clean off the material and replace the white gasket with a black gasket, but I'm not sure if that is a short-term solution or a long-term solution for the issue.
> 
> Does anyone else have the same issue or have an idea as to how to permanently prevent the brown material buildup (listed below are the materials in my loop)?
> If not, then I'll just have to do what Optimus said and reclean then try a black gasket and hope that either prevents or hides the material from showing up again.
> 
> Here is what is in my loop:
> 
> GPU block: Absolute FTW3 (Cerakote and Nickel cold plate)
> CPU block: Foundation Intel (Cerakote and Raw copper cold plate)
> Coolant: Corsair XL8 Blue (copper/brass/nickel)
> Pump/res: Corsair XD5 (copper/brass)
> Rads - 360mm x2: Corsair XR5 (copper/brass)
> Rad -120mm: PrimoChill EximoSX Slim Radiator (copper/brass)
> Fittings: Corsair XF 10/13mm (brass)


Something in your loop. The material could be elsewhere like in my case. Get an black gasket helps imo. Cleaning it isn't tough. Just lot of work. Lot of it is wippable off i suspect.

Toothpaste seems to be most effective (just tiring) with ultrasonic helping for blocks and fittings. If you want to clean the gasket, its involves an eraser lol.


----------



## rzelek506

Section31 said:


> Something in your loop. The material could be elsewhere like in my case. Get an black gasket helps imo. Cleaning it isn't tough. Just lot of work. Lot of it is wippable off i suspect.
> 
> Toothpaste seems to be most effective (just tiring) with ultrasonic helping for blocks and fittings. If you want to clean the gasket, its involves an eraser lol.


Thanks for the response.
I'll clean off the material again (already cleaned it off once before), and would obviously like to find a way to prevent it from occurring in the future.
But I have no idea which component in my loop is responsible for this material specifically, since everything in the loop was new/cleaned before being added to the loop.


----------



## Section31

rzelek506 said:


> Thanks for the response.
> I'll clean off the material again (already cleaned it off once before), and would obviously like to find a way to prevent it from occurring in the future.
> But I have no idea which component in my loop is responsible for this material specifically, since everything in the loop was new/cleaned before being added to the loop.


That's an wild goose chase. You can try running mayhem blitz through system but if something is corroding, it's not going to stop that. Generally should be radiators.


----------



## Kommando Kodiak

yup its usually people who ran unclean radiators with cryofuel that get that white stuff


----------



## Sir Beregond

rzelek506 said:


> Hi Everyone, new to the forum here, so I haven't read this very long thread and sorry if this same question was already answered earlier:
> 
> I have the Optimus FTW3 block on my 3090, but it has accumulated some brown material on where the gasket meets the acrylic (see below image).
> The block has been functioning fine otherwise.
> 
> I cleaned my components before putting them in the loop and I already cleaned off that brown material from the GPU block once, while switching between the nickel midplate and cerakote midplate. But the material came back on the block and now seems even worse.
> Contacted Optimus but they didn't seem to know exactly what was causing the material buildup at this location, and that it could have been a number of parts shedding in my loop.
> They suggested that I clean off the material and replace the white gasket with a black gasket, but I'm not sure if that is a short-term solution or a long-term solution for the issue.
> 
> Does anyone else have the same issue or have an idea as to how to permanently prevent the brown material buildup (listed below are the materials in my loop)?
> If not, then I'll just have to do what Optimus said and reclean then try a black gasket and hope that either prevents or hides the material from showing up again.
> 
> Here is what is in my loop:
> 
> GPU block: Absolute FTW3 (Cerakote and Nickel cold plate)
> CPU block: Foundation Intel (Cerakote and Raw copper cold plate)
> Coolant: Corsair XL8 Blue (copper/brass/nickel)
> Pump/res: Corsair XD5 (copper/brass)
> Rads - 360mm x2: Corsair XR5 (copper/brass)
> Rad -120mm: PrimoChill EximoSX Slim Radiator (copper/brass)
> Fittings: Corsair XF 10/13mm (brass)


Very weird. Never seen that before. Out of curiosity how did you clean/prep the loop initially?

Just an FYI on that Corsair coolant. No one knows what their new XL8 is. Their older XL5 was Mayhems X1. All to say, remains to be seen how this XL8 holds up.

Source 1: Corsair forums: Corsair employee confirms new supplier: Corsair XL8 fluid vs Corsair XL5 fluid

Source 2: Reddit: Corsair employee shows up saying it is made in Taiwan:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/l0e6c9

Source 3: Reddit: Corsair employee confirms XL5 and XL8 to be "vastly different chemical compositions":

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/Corsair/comments/nm19kx


----------



## Section31

Kommando Kodiak said:


> yup its usually people who ran unclean radiators with cryofuel that get that white stuff


Add Mayhem XTR 4nm to it too. There is white stuff but its easy to clean. However its doing its job if the block, etc are not getting much brass/copperish staining.


----------



## rzelek506

Sir Beregond said:


> Very weird. Never seen that before. Out of curiosity how did you clean/prep the loop initially?
> 
> Just an FYI on that Corsair coolant. No one knows what their new XL8 is. Their older XL5 was Mayhems X1. All to say, remains to be seen how this XL8 holds up.
> 
> Source 1: Corsair forums: Corsair employee confirms new supplier: Corsair XL8 fluid vs Corsair XL5 fluid
> 
> Source 2: Reddit: Corsair employee shows up saying it is made in Taiwan:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/l0e6c9
> 
> Source 3: Reddit: Corsair employee confirms XL5 and XL8 to be "vastly different chemical compositions":
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/Corsair/comments/nm19kx


Thanks for the response.

Initially, before putting the rads in the loop, I manually flushed/shaked each of them for about two minutes with a mixture of white distilled vinegar and distilled water, then drained and repeated about a dozen times, until material stopped coming out of the rads.
I didn't pre-clean the CPU/GPU blocks, because they looked pretty good straight out of the box, and Optimus also claims that they clean their products before shipping them out.

When the loop was first running, I had it going for a couple of months with Optimus's old nickel midplate.
Material filtered to the GPU block over those two months, similarly to the picture I posted earlier.
So after those two months, I was hoping all of that material would be done filtering down to the Optimus block.
At that point I cleaned the GPU block from that material while also replacing the midplate with the Cerakote midplate.
2-3 months later takes us to now, where that material seems to have come back and I'm not sure how to prevent it from coming back in the future.

Like Section31 recommended, I may try running mayhem blitz.
But since the material came back after the first time I originally cleaned the Optimus block, I'm not sure if it will be a long term solution or not.

The reason I'm using XL8 coolant currently is because Corsair advertised on their website that it was a "preferred" coolant for their pump I'm using.
However, I'm open to considering to try a different coolant; any suggestions?

By the way, I took a better picture of the cold plate today.
I noticed on the right side there is a column of "something", but I'm not exactly sure what that something is or where it's coming from.


----------



## Bartdude

edit


----------



## ciarlatano

rzelek506 said:


> Thanks for the response.
> 
> Initially, before putting the rads in the loop, I manually flushed/shaked each of them for about two minutes with a mixture of white distilled vinegar and distilled water, then drained and repeated about a dozen times, until material stopped coming out of the rads.
> I didn't pre-clean the CPU/GPU blocks, because they looked pretty good straight out of the box, and Optimus also claims that they clean their products before shipping them out.
> 
> When the loop was first running, I had it going for a couple of months with Optimus's old nickel midplate.
> Material filtered to the GPU block over those two months, similarly to the picture I posted earlier.
> So after those two months, I was hoping all of that material would be done filtering down to the Optimus block.
> At that point I cleaned the GPU block from that material while also replacing the midplate with the Cerakote midplate.
> 2-3 months later takes us to now, where that material seems to have come back and I'm not sure how to prevent it from coming back in the future.
> 
> Like Section31 recommended, I may try running mayhem blitz.
> But since the material came back after the first time I originally cleaned the Optimus block, I'm not sure if it will be a long term solution or not.
> 
> The reason I'm using XL8 coolant currently is because Corsair advertised on their website that it was a "preferred" coolant for their pump I'm using.
> However, I'm open to considering to try a different coolant; any suggestions?
> 
> By the way, I took a better picture of the cold plate today.
> I noticed on the right side there is a column of "something", but I'm not exactly sure what that something is or where it's coming from.


You may get some answers. Seems like a lot of issues with their GPU blocks on this run. Following the CPU blocks, this is very disappointing.


----------



## Biggu

ciarlatano said:


> You may get some answers. Seems like a lot of issues with their GPU blocks on this run. Following the CPU blocks, this is very disappointing.


absolutely agree, and to be honest. Seeing all the issues plus with the new ceramic coat I gotta say I think for my next block ill be going elsewhere. Optimus communication has been lack since the kingpin stuff and now they constantly have pressure issues and leaking. No thanks.


----------



## ciarlatano

Biggu said:


> absolutely agree, and to be honest. Seeing all the issues plus with the new ceramic coat I gotta say I think for my next block ill be going elsewhere. Optimus communication has been lack since the kingpin stuff and now they constantly have pressure issues and leaking. No thanks.


Sad to see. I had high hopes here, but they need to right the ship. I would likely still buy a Foundation if they come out with an LGA 1700 mounting kit, but might hedge until they started stocking again at PPC.


----------



## plisskin

I thing something very bad is going to happen.... I'm still waiting for a solution









3090 Kingpin Optimus Waterblock Woes


Wanted to create this thread as I know there are a few other users here and on the EGVA forums that have been running into issues with their Optimus block on the 3090 Kingpin, and I wanted to share my experience so far, and keep a running track of things moving forward. Ordered: July 29, 2021...




www.overclock.net


----------



## Sir Beregond

rzelek506 said:


> Thanks for the response.
> 
> Initially, before putting the rads in the loop, I manually flushed/shaked each of them for about two minutes with a mixture of white distilled vinegar and distilled water, then drained and repeated about a dozen times, until material stopped coming out of the rads.
> I didn't pre-clean the CPU/GPU blocks, because they looked pretty good straight out of the box, and Optimus also claims that they clean their products before shipping them out.
> 
> When the loop was first running, I had it going for a couple of months with Optimus's old nickel midplate.
> Material filtered to the GPU block over those two months, similarly to the picture I posted earlier.
> So after those two months, I was hoping all of that material would be done filtering down to the Optimus block.
> At that point I cleaned the GPU block from that material while also replacing the midplate with the Cerakote midplate.
> 2-3 months later takes us to now, where that material seems to have come back and I'm not sure how to prevent it from coming back in the future.
> 
> Like Section31 recommended, I may try running mayhem blitz.
> But since the material came back after the first time I originally cleaned the Optimus block, I'm not sure if it will be a long term solution or not.
> 
> The reason I'm using XL8 coolant currently is because Corsair advertised on their website that it was a "preferred" coolant for their pump I'm using.
> However, I'm open to considering to try a different coolant; any suggestions?
> 
> By the way, I took a better picture of the cold plate today.
> I noticed on the right side there is a column of "something", but I'm not exactly sure what that something is or where it's coming from.


Wow, just seems very odd. Very disappointed by this run of GPU blocks from Optimus given the good rep their CPU blocks have (minus stock issues and such).

As for the coolant, I am not saying there is a problem with it. Just more, watch and see how it does as no one knows who the supplier is for XL8, while XL5 was Mayhems X1 which is excellent coolant. Mayhems is a bit harder to find these days (at least in clear), but you may still find the blue clear X1 or XT-1, both excellent. If those are unavailable, ModMyMods ModWater is a great choice as well.


----------



## criskoe

Man reading through this thread lately is sad.... Lots of very concerning posts and not a peep from Optimus which is a shame. Not that I'm really surprised but still. I figured after everything they would maybe step up their CS/Social Media game at least a little? LOL.. Seems they are destine to forever just play catchup..

For me aside from the screws stripping on my ftw3 and my initial foundation not holding air.. After finally getting replacement parts my rig has been smooth sailing since October and not experiencing any of these recent issues... My blocks have been good... But for the rest of you that are, I sure feel bad for you... Sure hope you guys get it sorted... Like soon!!

Cause of the recent posts I thought I better check my blocks again. And luckily are still great. Cause I run my gpu horizontal it was hard to get a good pic. But these are my blocks running mayhems XT-1 V2 Clear since October 2021. Only 4 months but zero signs of staining, clogging or leaking. So glad I stocked up on a ton of XT-1 V2 a little while ago.. Im good for the next 5 years on fluid for multiple builds.. 

Also the vinyl wrap on my ftw3 is holding up perfectly. Not lifting or peeling at all...


----------



## Sir Beregond

criskoe said:


> Man reading through this thread lately is sad.... Lots of very concerning posts and not a peep from Optimus which is a shame. Not that I'm really surprised but still. I figured after everything they would maybe step up their CS/Social Media game at least a little? LOL.. Seems they are destine to forever just play catchup..
> 
> For me aside from the screws stripping on my ftw3 and my initial foundation not holding air.. After finally getting replacement parts my rig has been smooth sailing since October and not experiencing any of these recent issues... My blocks have been good... But for the rest of you that are, I sure feel bad for you... Sure hope you guys get it sorted... Like soon!!
> 
> Cause of the recent posts I thought I better check my blocks again. And luckily are still great. Cause I run my gpu horizontal it was hard to get a good pic. But these are my blocks running mayhems XT-1 V2 Clear since October 2021. Only 4 months but zero signs of staining, clogging or leaking. So glad I stocked up on a ton of XT-1 V2 a little while ago.. Im good for the next 5 years on fluid..
> 
> View attachment 2546758
> View attachment 2546759


Yeah blocks look to be in great shape. Don't see any junk caught in your microfins!


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Man reading through this thread lately is sad.... Lots of very concerning posts and not a peep from Optimus which is a shame. Not that I'm really surprised but still. I figured after everything they would maybe step up their CS/Social Media game at least a little? LOL.. Seems they are destine to forever just play catchup..
> 
> For me aside from the screws stripping on my ftw3 and my initial foundation not holding air.. After finally getting replacement parts my rig has been smooth sailing since October and not experiencing any of these recent issues... My blocks have been good... But for the rest of you that are, I sure feel bad for you... Sure hope you guys get it sorted... Like soon!!
> 
> Cause of the recent posts I thought I better check my blocks again. And luckily are still great. Cause I run my gpu horizontal it was hard to get a good pic. But these are my blocks running mayhems XT-1 V2 Clear since October 2021. Only 4 months but zero signs of staining, clogging or leaking. So glad I stocked up on a ton of XT-1 V2 a little while ago.. Im good for the next 5 years on fluid for multiple builds..
> 
> Also the vinyl wrap on my ftw3 is holding up perfectly. Not lifting or peeling at all...
> 
> View attachment 2546758
> View attachment 2546759


I suspect the white gasket will always stain - nature of it being white. It could be an issue with the ceramic coating but i really like the coating. I know there will be copperish elements appearing within my loop however, it is not appearing on the ceratoke matte black strix/sig v2. If it was the xe-nickel, i would guarantee see black/greenish on the block. Basically, my next maintenance run will involve the following:

1. Throwing Out and Replacing all the BP Extenders. My Mayhem XTR 4nm looks not white because the bitspower royal blue is chipping paint (from g1/4 port) into the loop.
2. Replace the Koolance QD4. After ultrasonic and through cleaning, its clear its brass is showing up. It's not staining. Order them whenever they are back in stock.
3. My investment into heavy ultrasonic/cleaning was needed. The Optimus Fittings while they pick up the staining from mystery source are 100% cleanable.
4. Got to reduce tinkering, everytime i do it, something else pops out i have to look into. My flow meter reading have dropped from 228l/h to 100l/h


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> My flow meter reading have dropped from 228l/h to 100l/h


That's quite the drop. Is that between rebuilds, or same loop config?


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> That's quite the drop. Is that between rebuilds, or same loop config?


Same loop config just an rebuild using new mobo/cpu lol.


----------



## MouShindeiru

rzelek506 said:


> ...


I guess it is safe to assume that is not caused by some junk, gunk? Chemical reaction perhaps? Kinda reminds me of this (similar but does not apply here):





Man, Optimus need to offer their old nickel plating option


----------



## iamjanco

^

optimus needs to respond to all the negative press, get themselves a csr who IS proactive, and start looking like they care about the future of their company.

while they're at it, maybe also establish an llc for themselves before people start taking them to small claims court. anonymity doesn't necessarily buy one protection.


----------



## rzelek506

MouShindeiru said:


> I guess it is safe to assume that is not caused by some junk, gunk? Chemical reaction perhaps? Kinda reminds me of this (similar but does not apply here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man, Optimus need to offer their old nickel plating option


Pretty interesting video, thanks for sharing.
They seem to suggest there that junk material will always be present to some extent.
Maybe that is why Optimus wanted me to just cover it up with a black gasket instead of the white one, because it's difficult to prevent completely.

However, I'm concerned that dirty material on my cold plate could be affecting performance, and I noticed the coolant vs GPU temperature difference slowly grown by a few degrees over the past couple of months on my build.
I'm not sure if there is a small clog somewhere or if the dirtyness on the GPU block is blocking some of the flow there and affecting it's thermal performance.
Last September I backordered a flow meter from ModMyMods, so that I could monitor the flow rate to see how it affects the thermal performance, however, every month or two I keep getting told by them that the order is delayed due to the manufacturer's delay.
So I'm not sure when that flow meter will arrive for me to check the flow rate.


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> ^
> 
> optimus needs to respond to all the negative press, get themselves a csr who IS proactive, and start looking like they care about the future of their company.
> 
> while they're at it, maybe also establish an llc for themselves before people start taking them to small claims court. anonymity doesn't necessarily buy one protection.


Lol. Me and Shawnb99 (yes he banned) have been observing whats going on here lately and agree/disagree on thing going on. All valid points with many needing answers but lot of over reaction imo.


----------



## Section31

rzelek506 said:


> Pretty interesting video, thanks for sharing.
> They seem to suggest there that junk material will always be present to some extent.
> Maybe that is why Optimus wanted me to just cover it up with a black gasket instead of the white one, because it's difficult to prevent completely.
> 
> However, I'm concerned that dirty material on my cold plate could be affecting performance, and I noticed the coolant vs GPU temperature difference slowly grown by a few degrees over the past couple of months on my build.
> I'm not sure if there is a small clog somewhere or if the dirtyness on the GPU block is blocking some of the flow there and affecting it's thermal performance.
> Last September I backordered a flow meter from ModMyMods, so that I could monitor the flow rate to see how it affects the thermal performance, however, every month or two I keep getting told by them that the order is delayed due to the manufacturer's delay.
> So I'm not sure when that flow meter will arrive for me to check the flow rate.


I don’t think the stuff sticking on blocks will affect performance. I have had countless optimus coldplate with brass stains and performance was fine. I have had heavily stained optimus fittings that still work fine.

I have gone through 3 Am4 Foundation Blocks and am FTW3 Optimus Block that got heavily hit by Materials in my loop. 

My flow meter is wonky (no way my flow would drop to 110l/h) but im sure performance hasn’t changed. I will get to bottom of it but as long as temperature sensor works that most important. Key is water temp not flow rate.


----------



## iamjanco

Section31 said:


> Lol. Me and Shawnb99 (yes he banned) have been observing whats going on here lately and agree/disagree on thing going on. All valid points with many needing answers but lot of over reaction imo.


That's just the result of more than 6.5 decades of collected wisdom.

I just calls 'em like I sees 'em


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> That's just the result of more than 6.5 decades of collected wisdom.
> 
> I just calls 'em like I sees 'em


fair enough.


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> That's just the result of more than 6.5 decades of collected wisdom.
> 
> I just calls 'em like I sees 'em


Me and shawnb99 are still planning to go optimus for extenders/rotary and would love them using cpc colder lq6 qdc. We really are tired of dealing with bitspower etc and the paint chipping,etc. The koolance qd4 chrome also chipped there own paint too.

Im losing an gmk shangshui deskmat due to all the stuff that doesn’t clean out on initial drain. Fortunate i have the gmk soyamilk deskmat coming at year end.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> I suspect the white gasket will always stain - nature of it being white. It could be an issue with the ceramic coating but i really like the coating. I know there will be copperish elements appearing within my loop however, it is not appearing on the ceratoke matte black strix/sig v2. If it was the xe-nickel, i would guarantee see black/greenish on the block. Basically, my next maintenance run will involve the following:
> 
> 1. Throwing Out and Replacing all the BP Extenders. My Mayhem XTR 4nm looks not white because the bitspower royal blue is chipping paint (from g1/4 port) into the loop.
> 2. Replace the Koolance QD4. After ultrasonic and through cleaning, its clear its brass is showing up. It's not staining. Order them whenever they are back in stock.
> 3. My investment into heavy ultrasonic/cleaning was needed. The Optimus Fittings while they pick up the staining from mystery source are 100% cleanable.
> 4. Got to reduce tinkering, everytime i do it, something else pops out i have to look into. My flow meter reading have dropped from 228l/h to 100l/h



The white gasket will always stain for sure... I feel confident in saying it will 100% stain at some point everytime. Thems the breaks... The white gasket looks gorgeous at first but unless your cleaning it on the regular its gunna get nasty looking no matter how clean your loop is. Like white shoes... No matter how carful and clean you are, you gotta clean them on the regular to stay fresh looking. White kicks are a dirt magnet lol.. ( Sneaker head) Ive also seen this first hand with EKs white orings they use on their D5 tube combos even before optimus had their white orings.. Cause of that I opted for the black gasket right out the gate and didnt bother using the white gasket from the get go... 

End of the day its all just a visual thing. None of that staining or discoloration will effect cooling performance. 

Did you buy a higher end Ultra sonic cleaner? Or just a cheap $100 dollar one?


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> The white gasket will always stain for sure... I feel confident in saying it will 100% stain at some point everytime. Thems the breaks... The white gasket looks gorgeous at first but unless your cleaning it on the regular its gunna get nasty looking no matter how clean your loop is. Like white shoes... No matter how carful and clean you are, you gotta clean them on the regular to stay fresh looking. White kicks are a dirt magnet lol.. ( Sneaker head) Ive also seen this first hand with EKs white orings they use on their D5 tube combos even before optimus had their white orings.. Cause of that I opted for the black gasket right out the gate and didnt bother using the white gasket from the get go...
> 
> End of the day its all just a visual thing. None of that staining or discoloration will effect cooling performance.
> 
> Did you buy a higher end Ultra sonic cleaner? Or just a cheap $100 dollar one?


Both. The cheap one and higher end one difference is less than 50cad so i should have got the higher end one. It is lot noisier and not super portable. The cheap one does light stuff and requires more runs to clean out.

I’ve talked with some of the other local bc optimus ppl and we all looked at getting the 31L plus ultrasonic for the purposes of cleaning radiators.


----------



## MouShindeiru

Section31 said:


> Both. The cheap one and higher end one difference is less than 50cad so i should have got the higher end one. It is lot noisier and not super portable. The cheap one does light stuff and requires more runs to clean out.
> 
> I’ve talked with some of the other local bc optimus ppl and we all looked at getting the 31L plus ultrasonic for the purposes of cleaning radiators.


Wait using ultrasonic cleaner for radiator? With distilled water or mix with vinegar guess? Would be nice to have one big enough to clean those 3 x 420 MO RA3


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> Both. The cheap one and higher end one difference is less than 50cad so i should have got the higher end one. It is lot noisier and not super portable. The cheap one does light stuff and requires more runs to clean out.
> 
> I’ve talked with some of the other local bc optimus ppl and we all looked at getting the 31L plus ultrasonic for the purposes of cleaning radiators.


These cleaners arnt going to strip coatings or harm the coatings??


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> These cleaners arnt going to strip coatings or harm the coatings??


Depends on solution used (didn’t go past citric acid). It and scrubbing was how i managed to clean the tough spots in the optimus fittings


----------



## Section31

MouShindeiru said:


> Wait using ultrasonic cleaner for radiator? With distilled water or mix with vinegar guess? Would be nice to have one big enough to clean those 3 x 420 MO RA3


Distilled plus solution (dawn) would be enough i suspect.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> That's quite the drop. Is that between rebuilds, or same loop config?












Crappy flow rates but the performance has not been effected.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2546932
> 
> 
> Crappy flow rates but the performance has not been effected.


maybe a air bubble stuck in the flow sensor?


----------



## Biggu

MouShindeiru said:


> I guess it is safe to assume that is not caused by some junk, gunk? Chemical reaction perhaps? Kinda reminds me of this (similar but does not apply here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man, Optimus need to offer their old nickel plating option


what really bothers me on that video is he is blowing into the loop. Thats a fantastic way to add bacteria in there.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> maybe a air bubble stuck in the flow sensor?


Something i will get to bottom of in future maintenance runs.


----------



## Sir Beregond

criskoe said:


> maybe a air bubble stuck in the flow sensor?


Wondered this too. If same config as before, that is otherwise quite the drop.


----------



## Lobstar

rzelek506 said:


> <flow restriction conversation>


I ran into this about 6 months ago and now have it again. 















It almost completely stopped my flow before I pulled this out (less then 0.3 GPM down from 4). It is super rubbery. The only thing I can think of is the gasket was just tore up the first time I replaced it. I've since bought a few of the black ones which I plan to replace this weekend. 

By chance, what kind of pressure are you running in your loop? I have only round-tube radiators (Monstas and Mo-Ra) so my only restrictions are my two Optimus CPU blocks and this. I run 4 D5s and at one time was running 2 D5s serial and a Little Giant 581503. I still ran into restrictions due to this. 

If you look at my first pic you can see some left over corrosion expanding out from the gasket line. This went in as assembled from Optimus. I believe the discoloration along the gasket on the left of the image is from my bare copper blocks in the rest of the loop.

I don't have an accurate scale but I thought about weighing the gasket before putting it in and if this happens again I can see if there was any material loss by weight. I'm certain this isn't organic as my previous loops in the same spot on my desk with the same fluid combo has never resulted in this when run for longer. Between the black construction paper on the clear parts and zygon tubing I'm fairly certain either this is gasket material OR some interaction with the fluid and the design of the channels in the cold block creating some sort of frothing when combined with high heat causes this fallout from the fluid itself.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Lobstar said:


> I ran into this about 6 months ago and now have it again.



I remember you and those pictures! Damn,so you cleaned everything up and now after 6 months the same again?!
Your situation was really bad,I’ll check mine out a bit better now! I’m using Mayhem’s XT-V2 clear and 3 weeks ago when I removed the coolant it was super clean even after running for 3 months. But I’ll check out everything else,didn’t notice anything at first glance just by looking at the build


----------



## dwolvin

Lobstar said:


> I ran into this about 6 months ago and now have it again.


That is the weirdest buildup I've ever seen. For weight, see if you know any bakers- their kitchen scales should work well enough, I believe. What was the fluid again?


----------



## criskoe

Dam that is gnarly looking. Does it smell???


----------



## Lobstar

dwolvin said:


> That is the weirdest buildup I've ever seen. For weight, see if you know any bakers- their kitchen scales should work well enough, I believe. What was the fluid again?


Fluid previously was Mayhems Nuke XT concentrate. This time is Kryofuel clear concentrate with XSPC EC6 Protect. Both times I used distilled water. I thought it might be fluid related but now has happened with two different formulas and concentrations.


criskoe said:


> Dam that is gnarly looking. Does it smell???


Absolutely no smell, all one piece, and elastic.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Wow, that's horrendous.

Watch out with the Cryofuel....


----------



## rzelek506

Lobstar said:


> I ran into this about 6 months ago and now have it again.
> View attachment 2546960
> View attachment 2546961
> 
> It almost completely stopped my flow before I pulled this out (less then 0.3 GPM down from 4). It is super rubbery. The only thing I can think of is the gasket was just tore up the first time I replaced it. I've since bought a few of the black ones which I plan to replace this weekend.
> 
> By chance, what kind of pressure are you running in your loop? I have only round-tube radiators (Monstas and Mo-Ra) so my only restrictions are my two Optimus CPU blocks and this. I run 4 D5s and at one time was running 2 D5s serial and a Little Giant 581503. I still ran into restrictions due to this.
> 
> If you look at my first pic you can see some left over corrosion expanding out from the gasket line. This went in as assembled from Optimus. I believe the discoloration along the gasket on the left of the image is from my bare copper blocks in the rest of the loop.
> 
> I don't have an accurate scale but I thought about weighing the gasket before putting it in and if this happens again I can see if there was any material loss by weight. I'm certain this isn't organic as my previous loops in the same spot on my desk with the same fluid combo has never resulted in this when run for longer. Between the black construction paper on the clear parts and zygon tubing I'm fairly certain either this is gasket material OR some interaction with the fluid and the design of the channels in the cold block creating some sort of frothing when combined with high heat causes this fallout from the fluid itself.


Wow, that is so disgusting; sorry that you have to experience something like that in your loop!
From your picture it doesn't look like any of the gasket is missing from the GPU block, so that's an interesting mystery as to where that chunk came from!

To answer your question:
I'm just running one D5 with Optimus CPU and GPU blocks, two Corsair 360mm rads, and one Primochill 120mm rad.
I'd say my loop is pretty restrictive, but not sure how I could quantify that without a flow meter.
I would like to add more pressure, but I'm not sure how my chassis would even have space for an additional pump.

On another note:
Optimus sure does make great filters to use in our loops.
Hopefully Optimus will start selling the filters as standalone units, and not force us to drain our loops and disassemble our GPU blocks in order to clean out all of these materials from our loops.


----------



## LiquidHaus

some people just have the worst luck with coolants, especially opaque fluids. either try translucent fluids or distilled water, keeps it simple.


----------



## Lobstar

Sir Beregond said:


> Watch out with the Cryofuel....


It's lasted longer than the Mayhems. I still wish Corsair sold their OG clear fluid that was just rebranded mayhems.



LiquidHaus said:


> some people just have the worst luck with coolants, especially opaque fluids. either try translucent fluids or distilled water, keeps it simple.


I've only used clear fluids. 
Corsair XL5 was the best so far. (full fluid and not from concentrate; not the newer XL8)
Mayhems XT1-Nuke clear concentrate @~10% w/ distilled water (caused the pictured build up).
Current liquid is Kryofuel clear concentrate with XSPC EC6 Protect and distilled water.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Dam that is gnarly looking. Does it smell???


So after long hours of cleaning and draining the whole loop (god damn brass stuff stains), I got my flow meter back to full operation. Also replaced the mayhem tube with tygon a60. Using distilled water and will add regular concentrate solution (screw conductivity numbers). I am not sure what was causing it but flow seems normal again.

So for mayhem xtr, basically it was the cause. Flushing out it, adding distilled water and even mayhem xtr got numbers back to normal.


----------



## chibi

@Edge0fsanity - did you get your dewire setup yet? Mine is still somewhere between netherlands and canada since mid jan.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

chibi said:


> @Edge0fsanity - did you get your dewire setup yet? Mine is still somewhere between netherlands and canada since mid jan.


My tracking shows it arrived in my country of destination as of Feb 1st. No updates since, haven't received yet.


----------



## chibi

Wow at least yours made it to USA I presume. Mine still hasn't landed to country of destination, according to Canada Post. Hoping to get these soon so I can finish this build.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Wow at least yours made it to USA I presume. Mine still hasn't landed to country of destination, according to Canada Post. Hoping to get these soon so I can finish this build.


Canada Post is screwed up so not shocking


----------



## DarkAngel117

Received my AM4 block today. On visual inspection I can see two areas where it almost seems like a fin is missing? Is this a manufacturing defect? In that case should I RMA this, or is it no big deal?


----------



## Section31

DarkAngel117 said:


> Received my AM4 block today. On visual inspection I can see two areas where it almost seems like a fin is missing? Is this a manufacturing defect? In that case should I RMA this, or is it no big deal?
> 
> View attachment 2547326
> View attachment 2547325


No Big Deal. Something happened during the manufacturing process. Do contact them and tell them.


----------



## iamjanco

DarkAngel117 said:


> Received my AM4 block today. On visual inspection I can see two areas where it almost seems like a fin is missing? Is this a manufacturing defect? In that case should I RMA this, or is it no big deal?
> 
> View attachment 2547326
> View attachment 2547325
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> No Big Deal. Something happened during the manufacturing process. Do contact them and tell them.
Click to expand...

Are _we_ sure that's not copper trash in those two areas? Perhaps the result of the skiving process?

In any event, definitely contact Optimus and let them know. Me, I'd be disassembling the block and visually inspecting those areas under a magnifying glass/soldering microscope.


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> Are _we_ sure that's not copper trash in those two areas? Perhaps the result of the skiving process?
> 
> In any event, definitely contact Optimus and let them know. Me, I'd be disassembling the block and visually inspecting those areas under a magnifying glass/soldering microscope.


Optimus easily catches stuff lol....I'm best example of that with all the brass staining. At some point you stop looking more than needed. I can only buy Fittings without any paint finish inside them going forward.


----------



## jincuteguy

So I ordered the Intel Foundation cpu block a while ago from Optimus. but now I just built a new PC with LGA1700 and 12th gen cpu 12900k cpu.
Is there an upgrade installation screws that I can order to use with the LGA1700 socket? or do I have to order a new Intel Foundation cpu block? thx


----------



## Section31

jincuteguy said:


> So I ordered the Intel Foundation cpu block a while ago from Optimus. but now I just built a new PC with LGA1700 and 12th gen cpu 12900k cpu.
> Is there an upgrade installation screws that I can order to use with the LGA1700 socket? or do I have to order a new Intel Foundation cpu block? thx


Its lga1700 ready already. We have been pushing them to make an backplate. Reuse your block.

Ekwb backplate works if you want aftermarket.


----------



## jincuteguy

Section31 said:


> Its lga1700 ready already. We have been pushing them to make an backplate. Reuse your block.
> 
> Ekwb backplate works if you want aftermarket.


Oh everything should works fine without a new backplate? that 's nice


----------



## Sir Beregond

DarkAngel117 said:


> Received my AM4 block today. On visual inspection I can see two areas where it almost seems like a fin is missing? Is this a manufacturing defect? In that case should I RMA this, or is it no big deal?
> 
> View attachment 2547326
> View attachment 2547325


I'd open the block and see if it's just a little copper scrap that can easy be wiped out with a toothbrush.


----------



## elbramso

Yesterday I decided to have a look at the active backplate of my optimus block just to see if there is any bleeding and hell I was shocked 
Almost the whole coated area of the backplate is covered in greasy oily liquid which seems to come from the thermalpad:

















I've my card mounted 90 degree clockwise vertically (if this makes sense) so I didn't notice earlier.


----------



## plisskin

elbramso said:


> Yesterday I decided to have a look at the active backplate of my optimus block just to see if there is any bleeding and hell I was shocked
> Almost the whole coated area of the backplate is covered in greasy oily liquid which seems to come from the thermalpad:
> 
> 
> 
> I've my card mounted 90 degree clockwise vertically (if this makes sense) so I didn't notice earlier.


are you still using the block?


----------



## elbramso

plisskin said:


> are you still using the block?


Well if it's the thermal pad leaking I don't see a reason to stop using the block. As the pad is huge and thick I'd expect some sort of leak but not that much


----------



## iamjanco

elbramso said:


> Yesterday I decided to have a look at the active backplate of my optimus block just to see if there is any bleeding and hell I was shocked
> Almost the whole coated area of the backplate is covered in greasy oily liquid which seems to come from the thermalpad:
> View attachment 2547938
> 
> View attachment 2547937
> 
> 
> I've my card mounted 90 degree clockwise vertically (if this makes sense) so I didn't notice earlier.


Thermal pads can do that, including those from Fujipoly; and it typically results in the oily mess you're experiencing (their _volatility_ is the characteristic that can result in such oily "bleeding," especially at higher temps).

What can be done to combat it?

Clean it up with 99% isopropyl;
Replace the pads (find a different source; try a different brand). Volatility differs among them. What you're after are those with a _low volatility index_ (or minimal _low-molecular siloxane content_). What you've got *may or may not be Fujipoly**;
Run your KPE at lower temps (sarc.).

Welcome to thermal interface materials 101.

Now for the advanced stuff:

**Note: *while low-molecular siloxane in SARCON® GR & XR series is actually fairly low, per _Volatile Components of SARCON® series_ in *Fuipoly's pdf catalog* (ref. pg 16), you're dealing with a rather hefty chunk of pad at 3mm thick. I couldn't say with any certainty myself (also why I stated _may or may not be Fujipoly_), but all things being equal, those very large pads coupled with a KPE 3090 overclocked to its max could be why you're experiencing what you are. My advice? Beyond what I've already stated, I have none. Maybe give up on epeen and get a PS5 or an XBOX


----------



## elbramso

Does anyone know the size of the thermal pads on the front of the block? They are super thin and got destroyed after i took the block apart

EDIT: it's on their website  0.5mm


----------



## plisskin

elbramso said:


> Well if it's the thermal pad leaking I don't see a reason to stop using the block. As the pad is huge and thick I'd expect some sort of leak but not that much


Would you say that the "leaks" or "stains" that the rest of us have could be due to the same thing as in your case?
Have you noticed that oil on the inside of the o ring?


----------



## elbramso

plisskin said:


> Would you say that the "leaks" or "stains" that the rest of us have could be due to the same thing as in your case?
> Have you noticed that oil on the inside of the o ring?


I'd say almost all these fujipoly pad that we have leak in some way. The bleeding that everyone has reported was only visible on the backplate... So who knows 😅


----------



## elbramso

BTW. Here is a picture how the block came of and destroyed all the thermalpads on the front - and there is oily liquid all over the place:









I decided to go for LM on my next mount so I coated the area around the die already :








I'll apply LM tomorrow when the new thermalpads arrive.


----------



## MouShindeiru

elbramso said:


> I've my card mounted 90 degree clockwise vertically (if this makes sense) so I didn't notice earlier.


So horizontal mount = front/main block facing down toward ground. Do u have it so that the backplate block facing down? or IO shield facing down? Like
iamjanco said, it could be that thermal pad on the backplate. It does feel somewhat oily initially.
I got the optimus KPE block not too long ago. Ran it in a test loop for a day plus EK leak tester at 0.8 bar for like an hour, appears to be solid seal, no leak. I do not really mind the "seepage" issue that others are facing if it does happen couple weeks down the road. I mean as long as the block does not leak I dont think that is an issue.

This is kinda the problem of getting KPE card, it limits your choice of waterblock. I mean had I gotten FTW3 or strix, I could choose EK active blocks, alphacool, optimus ... etc. That KPE HC kit is a joke at $300. EVGA prolly contracted to some Chinese company and cost them like $69 of material plus $6.9 slave labor cost. I refuse to pay $300 for that. One guy on evga forum tried to open and clean the KPE HC block, he almost could not put it back together due to the o ring. With Optimus KPE block its just a luck of draw, as many here have shown.


----------



## elbramso

MouShindeiru said:


> So horizontal mount = front/main block facing down toward ground. Do u have it so that the backplate block facing down? or IO shield facing down? Like
> iamjanco said, it could be that thermal pad on the backplate. It does feel somewhat oily initially.
> I got the optimus KPE block not too long ago. Ran it in a test loop for a day plus EK leak tester at 0.8 bar for like an hour, appears to be solid seal, no leak. I do not really mind the "seepage" issue that others are facing if it does happen couple weeks down the road. I mean as long as the block does not leak I dont think that is an issue.
> 
> This is kinda the problem of getting KPE card, it limits your choice of waterblock. I mean had I gotten FTW3 or strix, I could choose EK active blocks, alphacool, optimus ... etc. That KPE HC kit is a joke at $300. EVGA prolly contracted to some Chinese company and cost them like $69 of material plus $6.9 slave labor cost. I refuse to pay $300 for that. One guy on evga forum tried to open and clean the KPE HC block, he almost could not put it back together due to the o ring. With Optimus KPE block its just a luck of draw, as many here have shown.


Nah my description was bad. My card is turned 90 degree clockwise in my case. The power connector is facing down and the io bracket is facing up.


----------



## NorySS

it definately looks like all those 'wet/leak' areas are from the themal pad oils. and it seems to be correct, since they all have the 'leaks/stains' near screws.
The oil travels thru the screw hole.

My only concern would be, what type of affect would happen to the gasket when the oil reaches it?


----------



## DarkAngel117

Sir Beregond said:


> I'd open the block and see if it's just a little copper scrap that can easy be wiped out with a toothbrush.


This is exactly what they said. Interesting enough, if the marketing materials are to be believed, the cold plate is not skived but is CNC machined which begs the question for where the shards came from? Meh, not a big deal lol


----------



## Keith Myers

NorySS said:


> it definately looks like all those 'wet/leak' areas are from the themal pad oils. and it seems to be correct, since they all have the 'leaks/stains' near screws.
> The oil travels thru the screw hole.
> 
> My only concern would be, what type of affect would happen to the gasket when the oil reaches it?


If the gaskets are made of the typical Viton gasket material, then no effect as that material and other typical gasket materials are not affected by oils.


----------



## iamjanco

elbramso said:


> BTW. Here is a picture how the block came of and destroyed all the thermalpads on the front - and there is oily liquid all over the place:
> View attachment 2548003


Just curious, the pads in your post above, were they the Fujipoly pads Optimus ships with the block?


----------



## yaohanzex

MouShindeiru said:


> So horizontal mount = front/main block facing down toward ground. Do u have it so that the backplate block facing down? or IO shield facing down? Like
> iamjanco said, it could be that thermal pad on the backplate. It does feel somewhat oily initially.
> I got the optimus KPE block not too long ago. Ran it in a test loop for a day plus EK leak tester at 0.8 bar for like an hour, appears to be solid seal, no leak. I do not really mind the "seepage" issue that others are facing if it does happen couple weeks down the road. I mean as long as the block does not leak I dont think that is an issue.
> 
> This is kinda the problem of getting KPE card, it limits your choice of waterblock. I mean had I gotten FTW3 or strix, I could choose EK active blocks, alphacool, optimus ... etc. That KPE HC kit is a joke at $300. EVGA prolly contracted to some Chinese company and cost them like $69 of material plus $6.9 slave labor cost. I refuse to pay $300 for that. One guy on evga forum tried to open and clean the KPE HC block, he almost could not put it back together due to the o ring. With Optimus KPE block its just a luck of draw, as many here have shown.


What is your problem? We are not here to see your pathetic stereotype on another country. If you believe in those lies about slavery, you'd better stop using anything that's made in China which includes your phone, computer.


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> Just curious, the pads in your post above, were they the Fujipoly pads Optimus ships with the block?


That pretty much what i suspected with my strix card. Large portion of the pcb with oil stains.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Helpful tip on cleaning up oils from thermal pads. Eyeglass cleaner with an mf cloth works really well. Iso alcohol doesn't work all that well and tends to just smear it on blocks and backplates.


----------



## elbramso

iamjanco said:


> Just curious, the pads in your post above, were they the Fujipoly pads Optimus ships with the block?


It came shipped with the block, yes. If it's fujipoly I can't say for sure because I never had them before.


----------



## iamjanco

elbramso said:


> It came shipped with the block, yes. If it's fujipoly I can't say for sure because I never had them before.


Thanks for the info.

It might be interesting to perform some testing on pads like these and others that have been reported to _bleed oil. _Not sure it would be that difficult to do so, as besides the pads and some metal aluminum or copper plates (and misc odd/other bits/tools), mostly what such a tester might need would be ways to apply/control/measure heat and clamping pressure for specific lengths of time. If one were only looking to acknowledge whether a certain brand/model of pad leaked oil, you might not even need to be that precise as well when it comes to (e.g.) clamping force.

As for keeping applied heat in check during such testing (e.g., 70-90/100 degrees Celsius), I can think of a number of ways that might work.


----------



## satinghostrider

Section31 said:


> That pretty much what i suspected with my strix card. Large portion of the pcb with oil stains.


I confirm the same. I've noticed when mounting the card vertically the oil stains can drip near the PCIE connector. I'm not sure if it's related to the random screen flicker from time to time but wiping it once in a while seems to help.


----------



## criskoe

Fuji pads have ALOT of oil.. That's why they preform so well.. They leak quite a bit if your running high loads all the time.. Also it seems vertical mounting causes it to leak more.. Seen people post actual puddles of oil dripping out from these large fuji pads. Large puddles!

As they dry out they will prolly lose a bit of conductivity. The oils are nothing more then just a cosmetic annoyance and nothing to worry about as its not conductive at all.


----------



## satinghostrider

criskoe said:


> Fuji pads have ALOT of oil.. That's why they preform so well.. They leak quite a bit if your running high loads all the time.. Also it seems vertical mounting causes it to leak more.. Seen people post actual puddles of oil dripping out from these large fuji pads. Large puddles!
> 
> As they dry out they will prolly lose a bit of conductivity. The oils are nothing more then just a cosmetic annoyance and nothing to worry about as its not conductive at all.


Yup exactly. Apparently it is parrafin oil which isn't conductive.


----------



## elbramso

I decided to go for LM on my card today. Unfortunately I didn't get my replacement pads 0.5mm before I started, so I had to go for compressed 1mm instead. For that reason the result might not be ideal but I get a delta of 8,9c @ 500w. That is a 1,4c improvement. I was hoping for a little bit more but considering the fact that I had to use the wrong pad size I'm OK.

Pictures of the process :


----------



## dwolvin

OK, how did you get that perfect LM spread? Looks fake it's so nice!


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Mine looks like that always. What I’ve found helps a lot is if you go step by step meaning I put a small drip and cover as much as I can. Now if it wasn’t enough or I see some more can go on I just add a tiny bit and do as many times as needed. If it’s to much I use a cotton swab and just touch a couple of spots and it removes the excess. Takes around 15ish min to do it nicely but never had an issue and later I’ve found it’s easier to clean up. I can never ever go back to paste,LM or it won’t be in my pc 😤


----------



## dwolvin

Fair enough, I've pasted so many machines but never done the LM, I forgot it's that much thinner at application.


----------



## elbramso

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Mine looks like that always. What I’ve found helps a lot is if you go step by step meaning I put a small drip and cover as much as I can. Now if it wasn’t enough or I see some more can go on I just add a tiny bit and do as many times as needed. If it’s to much I use a cotton swab and just touch a couple of spots and it removes the excess. Takes around 15ish min to do it nicely but never had an issue and later I’ve found it’s easier to clean up. I can never ever go back to paste,LM or it won’t be in my pc 😤


Further it helps to sometimes hold the card vertical for a while to see where you got to much LM.


----------



## elbramso

dwolvin said:


> OK, how did you get that perfect LM spread? Looks fake it's so nice!


Thanks 😊


----------



## MouShindeiru

elbramso said:


> Further it helps to sometimes hold the card vertical for a while to see where you got to much LM.


I assume u use nail polishing or some sort of protection on the outside part of the gpu core? LM just seems too dangerous, I dont trust myself enough to do it  I might practice it on older gpu first.

Have the KPE block running for a couple days now. Noticing water slowly seeping toward like 3 screws on the backplate. Not seeing anything on the front block. I have the card horizontally mounted (maybe that helps with the seepage issue? I hope) with like 5 gpu support sticks, plus a tube. I am just glad that it is working, and not leaking externally.


----------



## elbramso

MouShindeiru said:


> I assume u use nail polishing or some sort of protection on the outside part of the gpu core? LM just seems too dangerous, I dont trust myself enough to do it  I might practice it on older gpu first.
> 
> Have the KPE block running for a couple days now. Noticing water slowly seeping toward like 3 screws on the backplate. Not seeing anything on the front block. I have the card horizontally mounted (maybe that helps with the seepage issue? I hope) with like 5 gpu support sticks, plus a tube. I am just glad that it is working, and not leaking externally.


I coated the area around the die like 3 times before I started 😅


----------



## elbramso

MouShindeiru said:


> I assume u use nail polishing or some sort of protection on the outside part of the gpu core? LM just seems too dangerous, I dont trust myself enough to do it  I might practice it on older gpu first.
> 
> Have the KPE block running for a couple days now. Noticing water slowly seeping toward like 3 screws on the backplate. Not seeing anything on the front block. I have the card horizontally mounted (maybe that helps with the seepage issue? I hope) with like 5 gpu support sticks, plus a tube. I am just glad that it is working, and not leaking externally.


I coated the area around the die like 3 times before I started 😅


----------



## HyperMatrix

elbramso said:


> I decided to go for LM on my card today. Unfortunately I didn't get my replacement pads 0.5mm before I started, so I had to go for compressed 1mm instead. For that reason the result might not be ideal but I get a delta of 8,9c @ 500w. That is a 1,4c improvement. I was hoping for a little bit more but considering the fact that I had to use the wrong pad size I'm OK.
> 
> Pictures of the process :
> View attachment 2548127


That's a TON of LM for just the die. Did you also put that much LM on the block? I also noticed there are areas on the die where liquid metal is not fully covering it. You want a full and perfect 100% coated layer on both surfaces before contact. And you don't want it to be too much. Thank God you applied the Thermal Grizzy conformal coating. Haha. I'd be terrified to run that amount of LM in a vertical mount setup.

When you put too much LM, and then apply pressure, especially in vertical setup, you get this. So gotta be careful.


----------



## elbramso

HyperMatrix said:


> That's a TON of LM for just the die. Did you also put that much LM on the block? I also noticed there are areas on the die where liquid metal is not fully covering it. You want a full and perfect 100% coated layer on both surfaces before contact. And you don't want it to be too much. Thank God you applied the Thermal Grizzy conformal coating. Haha. I'd be terrified to run that amount of LM in a vertical mount setup.
> 
> When you put too much LM, and then apply pressure, especially in vertical setup, you get this. So gotta be careful.
> 
> View attachment 2548146


don't think that it will compress of the sides but I'll check later. I used LM pretty much just for the last day of benchmarking


----------



## elbramso

Thanks to LM and the Optimus Block I was able to beat my PB in Port Royal once again:
Here is the run:








I scored 16 696 in Port Royal


Intel Core i9-10900K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}




www.3dmark.com





Settings used:


----------



## chibi

Dewire pcb has landed, now for the courier to deliver - eta end of next week!

Time to make some progress on this build


----------



## GAN77

dwolvin said:


> OK, how did you get that perfect LM spread? Looks fake it's so nice!


----------



## iamjanco

A few questions directed at *Strix 3090 users of Optimus blocks*

What with everything you've experienced/observed thus far, good and/or bad, if you had to do it all over again, would you opt for the Optimus block? If so, is there anything you'd do different? Why?

If you wouldn't opt for the Optimus block, what would you do instead?

TIA! for responses


----------



## criskoe

GAN77 said:


>


Ive owned two different ROG laptops with stock liquid metal and I have to say that they were the absolute worse liquid metal paste jobs possible. Both of them looked like a child did the application. Both had large dry bare spots with most of the liquid metal around the actual die. Looked like someone did it with their eyes closed. LOL... If it wasn't for the silicon barrier they apply the laptops would have been dead for sure. 

Repasting them myself gave almost a 10c drop on both laptops...


----------



## Biggu

iamjanco said:


> A few questions directed at *Strix 3090 users of Optimus blocks*
> 
> What with everything you've experienced/observed thus far, good and/or bad, if you had to do it all over again, would you opt for the Optimus block? If so, is there anything you'd do different? Why?
> 
> If you wouldn't opt for the Optimus block, what would you do instead?
> 
> TIA! for responses


It depends on what time frame we are talking. Yea it sucked waiting so long to get it finally delivered but honestly it looks(the originals) amazing it performs amazing and since ive installed it ive had no issues. That being said, the reason I brought up the time frame is this, If I were to buy a strix 3090 today and wanted a water block I probably wouldn't go Optimus simply due to the cerakote. Personally I dont think it looks good at all and make it look cheap, I prefer the the shiny ness of the nickle plate. Maybe if Optimus had good communication Id consider contacting them paying extra for the plating if they allowed it.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

elbramso said:


> Further it helps to sometimes hold the card vertical for a while to see where you got to much LM.


Yep,that’s what I did with my CPU but after a couple of applications you’ll see if it’s to much just by eyeing it.

Do you guys put LM just on the GPU or did you also add a layer on the waterblock and press it together? I always do on both for GPU and CPU


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Biggu said:


> It depends on what time frame we are talking. Yea it sucked waiting so long to get it finally delivered but honestly it looks(the originals) amazing it performs amazing and since ive installed it ive had no issues. That being said, the reason I brought up the time frame is this, If I were to buy a strix 3090 today and wanted a water block I probably wouldn't go Optimus simply due to the cerakote. Personally I dont think it looks good at all and make it look cheap, I prefer the the shiny ness of the nickle plate. Maybe if Optimus had good communication Id consider contacting them paying extra for the plating if they allowed it.



Should’ve quoted @iamjanco not sure why I quoted you,getting old I guess 🙁

Regarding the block and now just talking about the block it’s totally worth it! Temps are extra great,looks awesome and from day 1 had no issues.

Now would I buy it again? Def not!
I won’t go into to much detail but at this point everyone knows my stance on OPTIMUS and everything around them. I can’t/won’t support a company that doesn’t give a single **** about its customers. 

Idk for what you use your pc but purely gaming (like I do) I’m seeing myself losing interest in gaming. Every new release is ****tier then the previous and gaming is on the verge if dying out. Every new title is questionable if it works or you’ll get a pre beta crap release and then listen to how they’ll “FIX” it in the coming months. So paying absurd amounts of money and you’re tight on money I wouldn’t recommend it anymore. If you have spare money to spend sure why not.
Just my opinion


----------



## iamjanco

^thanks for the input, both of you  Really appreciated.

Some additional context: I asked because i've got a new 3090 Strix OC that needs a block. Having kept up to date with this thread, trying to determine what my best option is (besides selling it). I'm thinking the Phanteks Glacier G30 STRIX only because I know someone who has one and he seems happy with it (there's not much in the way of actual user review info available for many of the waterblock options that exist for 3090s; outside of marketing spiel, that is.). 

Anyway, I'd also add a custom copper backplate to any choice I made, like I did for the KPE; and top that off with *something like the following*:


----------



## bearsdidit

iamjanco said:


> A few questions directed at *Strix 3090 users of Optimus blocks*
> 
> What with everything you've experienced/observed thus far, good and/or bad, if you had to do it all over again, would you opt for the Optimus block? If so, is there anything you'd do different? Why?
> 
> If you wouldn't opt for the Optimus block, what would you do instead?
> 
> TIA! for responses


My experience with water cooling is fairly limited but my Optimus is my third GPU block. There is such a big difference in performance compared to the Corsair and EK blocks I tried previously that I would only consider an Optimus block for future builds. They are far from perfect in terms of CS but they make a great product.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Biggu said:


> It depends on what time frame we are talking. Yea it sucked waiting so long to get it finally delivered but honestly it looks(the originals) amazing it performs amazing and since ive installed it ive had no issues. That being said, the reason I brought up the time frame is this, If I were to buy a strix 3090 today and wanted a water block I probably wouldn't go Optimus simply due to the cerakote. Personally I dont think it looks good at all and make it look cheap, I prefer the the shiny ness of the nickle plate. Maybe if Optimus had good communication Id consider contacting them paying extra for the plating if they allowed it.


Agree with this, except I'll keep buying optimus so long as they're outperforming everyone else by large margin. I care about that more than anything. I had the original nickel block from a day 1 pre order on my strix. I have black cerakote on my KPE. Now that I've had both I would strongly prefer a nickel option even if it takes longer. It just looks better.


----------



## lostsupper

iamjanco said:


> A few questions directed at *Strix 3090 users of Optimus blocks*
> 
> What with everything you've experienced/observed thus far, good and/or bad, if you had to do it all over again, would you opt for the Optimus block? If so, is there anything you'd do different? Why?
> 
> If you wouldn't opt for the Optimus block, what would you do instead?
> 
> TIA! for responses


Chiming in a little late here, but I would not buy an Optimus GPU block again. I've had great experiences with their CPU blocks--both AMD and Intel. Based on those experiences I bought the 3090 Strix block assuming that their estimated delivery date was reliable. It was not. 

I think my order finally arrived six or seven weeks later than the date listed at time of purchase. That wouldn't have necessarily been a deal-breaker, but once the shipping date passed the company went silent. An Optimus representative here would pipe up occasionally responding to positive posts but nothing to the numerous questions from customers asking where their blocks were. 

If transparency and customer service are important to you, there are better companies to support. I'll be going back to Watercool for future GPU blocks.


----------



## Gotspeed_2000

I've had some good results with Optimus in the past. Knowing the situation they are in when you order is the key to help limit the frustrations. If they are in a pre-order mode I think based on previous reports and my own experiences you are going to be facing a delay in getting your block since they still need to finalize the details in the block. They have done this recently for the FTW3 Block, the Strix Block, and now the Kingpin Block. Once they get past the initial delays in getting all the details done then the production of the block does line up with the info on their website for the most part. I bought my 3090 block right after they caught up with the initial pre-orders for the FTW3 block. Mines took about 8 weeks from time to order to being delivered which was within the info they provide on the site. I ordered another FTW3 block for my son's pc back in October and that was delivered a little ahead of the time frame they provided on the site. 

My Kingpin has been a whole different story that I wont get into yet since I am still waiting to see how this is going to be resolved, but overall while there are delays in getting your product it really should be taken into consideration where they are at in the development of the block you are trying to buy. If the block is yet to be released then you will need to factor in delays based on their history. But once you get past those the delivery times pretty much match what they say. The only thing I share to anyone who asks is that their "In Stock" really means that they have the materials to make your block, but it will still take time to manufacturer your block and do the things necessary to ship it out first which takes up most of the time between the order date and the expected delivery date. 

For me, most people would agree that I should be frustrated by the issues I am going through with my Kingpin but I'm giving Optimus the benefit of believing that they will correct the issue to my satisfaction and I'll be able to use my Kingpin in the near future.


----------



## arvinz

lostsupper said:


> Chiming in a little late here, but I would not buy an Optimus GPU block again. I've had great experiences with their CPU blocks--both AMD and Intel. Based on those experiences I bought the 3090 Strix block assuming that their estimated delivery date was reliable. It was not.
> 
> I think my order finally arrived six or seven weeks later than the date listed at time of purchase. That wouldn't have necessarily been a deal-breaker, but once the shipping date passed the company went silent. An Optimus representative here would pipe up occasionally responding to positive posts but nothing to the numerous questions from customers asking where their blocks were.
> 
> If transparency and customer service are important to you, there are better companies to support. I'll be going back to Watercool for future GPU blocks.


Chiming in here as well. I've been reading this thread for a long time and I received my Strix block, I'm going to say back in July 2021..so fairly early on. I tucked it away in my cabinet until I had accumulated all the components for my new build. Fast forward to today and I'm almost done my build..took a long time. I did initially purchase the Strix block with the nickel plate copper midplate, and then when the cerakote option came out, I ordered the cerakote black midplate.

So here's my take:

*The Good: *The product performance speaks for itself. I've only heard of incredible performance from fellow owners and I cannot wait to get this thing going in my new build. TLDR;* performance rocks.

The Bad: *Took Optimus a long time for the Strix 3090 to be developed and finally available to purchase. Then you had to wait a bit longer to receive your product. TLDR; *long-ass wait times.

The Ugly:* Agreed that at this price point, build quality should be at the top of it's class (and it is), but maybe quality control could be better. The cerakote black midplate I received I had an issue where one of the T6 torx screws was not screwing in properly and seemed to have stripped off some of the coating of the midplate. Contacted Optimus, took a few days to get a reply, got the reply and they asked for a few pics, made the decision to have me return it for an exchange, and I did. No problems at all there. They shipped me a new midplate. Got the new midplate, reassembled everything, did a leak test on the block and found that air pressure was leaking through the crack between the cold plate and the midplate. Contacted Optimus again, they determined that the screws were the culprit, they sent me new set of screws that were Philips and that solved the issue. TLDR; *had some issues but for me Optimus customer service stepped up and worked with me to get what I needed.*

I think everybody is going to have good and bad experiences but I wanted to share mine as I felt like I had an overall great response from them, and they took care of me with the issues I had. There was a bit of delay here and there and personally, I had waited so long for a lot of things that I didn't mind waiting a little more.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

From what I’m seeing OPTIMUS quality is 50/50,some had issues some had none (me nada issues). Some had a 50/50 customer experience (mine was really bad the 3 times I’ve emailed them),some say it was good/great. The waiting time is a 50/50 thing also,some can’t/don’t want to be bs’ed and some don’t care at all waiting 7 months and 15 delays later.

The only thing we all agree on is….once your block is at its 100% it’s awesome! 

Basically depends on how much you care about watercooling and your build. If you’re like me who enjoys building nice looking and top of the line pc’s but not necessarily “I’ll do anything and swallow anything” then OPTIMUS is a no go for me because of the way they act and not giving ****. Then you have guys literally bending space to protect OPTIMUS and finding millions of excuses why this could’ve happened,maybe this maybe that etc etc…which is also fine it’s your money at the end of the day. 
But generally PC hardware is sinking and it’s sinking fast…no stock,prices are completely ******ed (we here mostly have money,I don’t really care if a GPU is 1k or 4k I can afford it but that doesn’t mean I’m ready to pay that much!),gaming is a complete other story with games being released in pre beta phases…so imho if OPTIMUS wants to continue charging as much as they do they can’t continue like this! There’s not really that many people ready to shell out $450-600usd for a GPU block alone nor have the money. Plus waiting 6-8 months for it to arrive,then no availability for anything…idk how OPTIMUS thinks they can continue like this but good luck with a lot against them.

Ofc just my opinion but if you don’t agree you’re stupid but I respect you nonetheless! (This is a jk btw 🙂)


----------



## criskoe

Well looks like the V3000+ isnt till may now.. lol....

You guys seen the newest iteration they just showed off few days ago?? Gotta be honest I feel like with every reversion they come out with I'm slowly not liking it... I actually preferred the grill style vent panels on the first iteration better then the small mesh approach. And I feel like they are adding too much fake brushed aluminum everywhere... Seems the ventilation panels for the bottom chamber keep getting smaller and smaller too... Looks funny to me with the chonky bezels. Im also not a fan of this new backside glass panel.. I get some people may like seeing the back side but I'm not one of those people. I like to hide **** back there like flow meters and fan controllers n such.. I dont want to look at them...

I dont know. I'm now thinking this might not be my next case after all..

Lets go revived case labs!!!!!!!! You can do it! lol


----------



## acoustic

criskoe said:


> Well looks like the V3000+ isnt till may now.. lol....
> 
> You guys seen the newest iteration they just showed off few days ago?? Gotta be honest I feel like with every reversion they come out with I'm slowly not liking it... I actually preferred the grill style vent panels on the first iteration better then the small mesh approach. And I feel like they are adding too much fake brushed aluminum everywhere... Seems the ventilation panels for the bottom chamber keep getting smaller and smaller too... Looks funny to me with the chonky bezels. Im also not a fan of this new backside glass panel.. I get some people may like seeing the back side but I'm not one of those people. I like to hide **** back there like flow meters and fan controllers n such.. I dont want to look at them...
> 
> I dont know. I'm now thinking this might not be my next case after all..
> 
> Lets go revived case labs!!!!!!!! You can do it! lol


I'm literally waiting for the V3000+ and they keep pushing it back. Just release the original concept for ****s sake! I want to dump this 011D XL.


----------



## criskoe

acoustic said:


> I'm literally waiting for the V3000+ and they keep pushing it back. Just release the original concept for ****s sake! I want to dump this 011D XL.


I know right! LOL... I wish they just released the original a year ago and then if they wanted to change it just release a ++ version later.

I know looks is subjective but I dunno man, I really feel like the original looked better...

Original February 2021









New updated model as of a few days ago. February 2022


----------



## iamjanco




----------



## Edge0fsanity

criskoe said:


> Well looks like the V3000+ isnt till may now.. lol....
> 
> You guys seen the newest iteration they just showed off few days ago?? Gotta be honest I feel like with every reversion they come out with I'm slowly not liking it... I actually preferred the grill style vent panels on the first iteration better then the small mesh approach. And I feel like they are adding too much fake brushed aluminum everywhere... Seems the ventilation panels for the bottom chamber keep getting smaller and smaller too... Looks funny to me with the chonky bezels. Im also not a fan of this new backside glass panel.. I get some people may like seeing the back side but I'm not one of those people. I like to hide **** back there like flow meters and fan controllers n such.. I dont want to look at them...
> 
> I dont know. I'm now thinking this might not be my next case after all..
> 
> Lets go revived case labs!!!!!!!! You can do it! lol


Agreed, when I saw the first iteration it was near perfect save a few features it needed. Now they keep making it look cheaper and less appealing. I don't think I'll be buying one, get the feeling this is going to end up as another cheap cookie cutter case by the time its ready. I'll just wait for CL. A revised SMA8 reverse ATX fully optioned out would be perfection for me.


----------



## chibi

Feb 2021 definitely way better. Just make front panel air flow and it'll be perfect. Case is now a wash and not worth it.


----------



## Biggu

criskoe said:


> I know right! LOL... I wish they just released the original a year ago and then if they wanted to change it just release a ++ version later.
> 
> I know looks is subjective but I dunno man, I really feel like the original looked better...
> 
> Original February 2021
> View attachment 2548746
> 
> 
> New updated model as of a few days ago. February 2022
> 
> View attachment 2548747


They have to appease those that want the RGB puke....


----------



## HyperMatrix

Biggu said:


> They have to appease those that want the RGB puke....


But I want my RGB game to remain...lit...


----------



## dwolvin

Do remember that RGB puke can be set for a specific color and look amazing (often). (imho/ymmv)

And I really do want to see that monitor in person, seems like it may be amazing.


----------



## chibi

I have the first gen AW3418DW the moment it came out. I've been holding off upgrading since the offerings up until now seemed more like side grades, but if this oled ultrawide is anything that's it's marketed to be, it's going to be a winner!


----------



## Sir Beregond

criskoe said:


> I know right! LOL... I wish they just released the original a year ago and then if they wanted to change it just release a ++ version later.
> 
> I know looks is subjective but I dunno man, I really feel like the original looked better...
> 
> Original February 2021
> View attachment 2548746
> 
> 
> New updated model as of a few days ago. February 2022
> 
> View attachment 2548747


Yeah going to agree with you there. That Feb 21 case is sexy.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

A **** man I was eagerly waiting for the 2021 Lian-Li case. I’m heart broken and sad,the early version was sick,this new thing is just a regular joe case. I hope they maybe make like 2ish versions like my Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 and the 719. Same same but a few minor changes and up to you to choose

Just watched @iamjanco video of the updated case looks like ass,but not the good looking thicccc ass! Buuuuut the front rgb crap panel is removable so I can have it be like my enthoo pro 2 now,hope we can remove completely the side panel aswell. It’s not like the early version but I think it might be solvable halfway. 
Also that isn’t black right it looks more like gun metal color?


----------



## criskoe

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> A **** man I was eagerly waiting for the 2021 Lian-Li case. I’m heart broken and sad,the early version was sick,this new thing is just a regular joe case. I hope they maybe make like 2ish versions like my Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 and the 719. Same same but a few minor changes and up to you to choose
> 
> Just watched @iamjanco video of the updated case looks like ass,but not the good looking thicccc ass! Buuuuut the front rgb crap panel is removable so I can have it be like my enthoo pro 2 now,hope we can remove completely the side panel aswell. It’s not like the early version but I think it might be solvable halfway.
> Also that isn’t black right it looks more like gun metal color?


Yeah im not a fan of it at all dude.. Just looks like a LARGE version of their cheaper mesh cases... Pretty disappointed tbh..

Lian Li's black brushed metal is never really a nice deep black. Its always this weird black/grey with a very very slight purple/blue tinge to it. Hard to explain. That case will be called "black" tho... lol...

Funny part is they keep saying they have been making the changes from "Community feed back"

Im not sure who this "Community" is. But who ever they are, they should stop listening to them.... LOL...


----------



## HyperMatrix

dwolvin said:


> Do remember that RGB puke can be set for a specific color and look amazing (often). (imho/ymmv)
> 
> And I really do want to see that monitor in person, seems like it may be amazing.





chibi said:


> I have the first gen AW3418DW the moment it came out. I've been holding off upgrading since the offerings up until now seemed more like side grades, but if this oled ultrawide is anything that's it's marketed to be, it's going to be a winner!


There's 2 bits of info I haven't been able to find about the monitor:

1) Does it support Dolby Vision
2) Does it come in a nice glossy OLED coating like all OLED products do, or is the image quality destroyed with a matte anti-glare filter

I hope it supports Dolby Vision, but I don't think it will. I assume that if it were supported, it would have been advertised as it would have been a great selling point from a marketing perspective. Lack of HDR10+/Dolby Vision means static HDR profile. Meaning it'd be a monitor I'd want to upgrade right away.

As for the coating on the display...if it's not glossy, then it's an instant no-buy for me. I'm tired of manufacturers putting garbage image ruining matte film on expensive monitors for the sake of lazy people who can't be bothered to set up a light controlled work/game space.

Other than that though ,the specs on it are amazing. Compared to current OLED, it has 66% higher full screen brightness and 33% higher peak brightness (window). On top of that, 3 year warranty including burn in. And for that price...yes please.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

criskoe said:


> Yeah im not a fan of it at all dude.. Just looks like a LARGE version of their cheaper mesh cases... Pretty disappointed tbh..
> 
> Lian Li's black brushed metal is never really a nice deep black. Its always this weird black/grey with a very very slight purple/blue tinge to it. Hard to explain. That case will be called "black" tho... lol...


I’ll message lian-li and ask them to send me the early version. Who knows maybe it’ll work and they have stock of the early ones
There’s no community and whoever listens to us peasants? It’s more if we ****ed up we can always go back and say “Well we listened to you guys!” Bunch if bs


@HyperMatrix just saw your reply for the monitor

Don’t take my word for 100%, but I’m 90% sure that I’ve seen/read/heard on youtube by someone that it’s just the matte-anti glare filter because for that money they’re charging they can’t bring out a proper OLED. As said don’t take this to seriously but even my own opinion is for that money there has to be something fishy and out of place. Nobody really cares about us customers,it’s about money so we’ll see but my hopes aren’t high. I’ll stick with my lg 48” there’s no going back


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I’ll message lian-li and ask them to send me the early version. Who knows maybe it’ll work and they have stock of the early ones
> 
> 
> @HyperMatrix just saw your reply for the monitor
> 
> Don’t take my word for 100%, but I’m 90% sure that I’ve seen/read/heard on youtube by someone that it’s just the matte-anti glare filter because for that money they’re charging they can’t bring out a proper OLED. As said don’t take this to seriously but even my own opinion is for that money there has to be something fishy and out of place. Nobody really cares about us customers,it’s about money so we’ll see but my hopes aren’t high. I’ll stick with my lg 48” there’s no going back


That would be unfortunate especially since Samsung, the makers of QD-OLED, are pros at making light absorbing gloss film for their TVs. I definitely won't be buying this if it's not glossy. I'll wait for a 32-34" 4K 16:9 OLED hoping that it will be glossy. I'll take glossy OLED over matte film QD-OLED. Some will disagree but in my opinion matte filters look like butt. I'll just play on my 77" OLED.

Looking at this pic from vincent teoh's youtube video, the frame of the monitor looks to be glossy. Generally matte films cover the entire screen, including the flat bezels/frame. So there's a chance it could be glossy. Especially with all those finger prints on the screen itself. There is hope.










Video for reference:


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> That would be unfortunate especially since Samsung, the makers of QD-OLED, are pros at making light absorbing gloss film for their TVs. I definitely won't be buying this if it's not glossy. I'll wait for a 32-34" 4K 16:9 OLED hoping that it will be glossy. I'll take glossy OLED over matte film QD-OLED. Some will disagree but in my opinion matte filters look like butt. I'll just play on my 77" OLED.



You can’t use butt in the way you do,atleast add something like “lazy butt,flat ass butt,butt but not the good butt,pancake flat butt etc etc...”
If you say just “looks like butt” it can be misinterpreted as butt but the good butt

I agree with you,since the LG 48” I can never go back to anything else but for somebody new hearing OLED and seeing the price+size of the monitor it’s a really good purchase. But if it’s not proper OLED and has no dolby-vision it’s basically just “good on paper” but more or less the same as any other high end monitors.


----------



## iamjanco

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Just watched @iamjanco video of the updated case...


I better clarify that I only shared that video coz nobody else did, at least not in this thread; I have absolutely no interest in a Lian Li anything and have got a more or less* virgin SMA8 case with all the trimmings set to the side just in case I want to use it someday.








​*note: the pedestal is currently being used to house 2x 560 GTS multiport rads for my test bench.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

iamjanco said:


> I better clarify that I only shared that video coz nobody else did, at least not in this thread; I have absolutely no interest in a Lian Li anything and have got a more or less* virgin SMA8 case with all the trimmings set to the side just in case I want to use it someday.
> *note: the pedestal is currently being used to house 2x 560 GTS multiport rads for my test bench.


I didn’t think you are the type of guy for a Lian-Li case,you kinda never sounded and the pics you posted never looked like a guy to buy their cases. But I do appreciate you posting it,otherwise I’d miss it and someday wouldn’t go around to see how far it is. 
After seeing the almost final product I’m not that interested in it,doesn’t look appealing at all.


----------



## MrFox

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Guys
> 
> Did anyone ever try or has used or uses a waterchiller for your cooling? I’ve came across a guy saying it destroys a MORA and plus you don’t need fans because the waterchiller does it automatically?!
> I’ve never heard about using a waterchiller to cool your water temps but I’m seeing that quite a bit of people are saying it’s the best thing ever,so I’m curious.


Yup, I have been using a chiller for a long time. Works great. I wouldn't want to be without one. You can choose the temperature you want and it cycles on and off, just like a refrigerator or air conditioner. If you use a radiator with a chiller it won't get as cold because the radiator "warms" the water to try to equalize it with ambient temps. I use both a chiller and a MORA 360 and have the lines connected with QDC fittings. When I want to do more extensive overclocking I use the QDCs to bypass the MORA 360. When I just want the system to run cooler than ambient, I leave the water circulating through the radiator. 

You can also use a portable AC unit to force freezing cold air through a radiator. That works really well. It works for air-cooled systems as well (desktop and laptop) if you duct the frosty cold air into the chassis. I also have a portable AC unit and started using that years ago, before I was introduced to chilled water.


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> I better clarify that I only shared that video coz nobody else did, at least not in this thread; I have absolutely no interest in a Lian Li anything and have got a more or less* virgin SMA8 case with all the trimmings set to the side just in case I want to use it someday.
> 
> View attachment 2548829
> ​*note: the pedestal is currently being used to house 2x 560 GTS multiport rads for my test bench.


I am just waiting for someone to offer me 1300-1400usd for my caselabs s8. Otherwise i am content keeping it


----------



## jincuteguy

Anyone knows the flow direction like which port is In and Out for the Optimus Intel Foundation cpu block? Or it does not matter ?


----------



## criskoe

jincuteguy said:


> Anyone knows the flow direction like which port is In and Out for the Optimus Intel Foundation cpu block? Or it does not matter ?


When you receive it stock from Optimus the IN port is on the left. If you want to use the right port as IN you just take the block apart and rotate the block top keeping the cold plate and frame in the same orientation.

Or if your lazy and don't want to disassemble it, Just rotate the whole block 180 degrees with the Optimus logo upside down.

For best performance, yes the flow path matters.


----------



## ciarlatano

jincuteguy said:


> Anyone knows the flow direction like which port is In and Out for the Optimus Intel Foundation cpu block? Or it does not matter ?


----------



## jincuteguy

ciarlatano said:


> View attachment 2548898


Thx you man


----------



## superguest

Section31 said:


> I am just waiting for someone to offer me 1300-1400usd for my caselabs s8. Otherwise i am content keeping it


I don't mind buying an S3 in the right configuration and at the right price.


----------



## MrFox

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> You can’t use butt in the way you do,atleast add something like “lazy butt,flat ass butt,butt but not the good butt,pancake flat butt etc etc...”
> If you say just “looks like butt” it can be misinterpreted as butt but the good butt


Maybe it's just because I'm an old fart but I find English is a pretty easy language to use if you use it correctly. Bad means not good, not bad as in good, and butt is the junior high school version of ass, and ass is never good unless it relates to an intimate encounter with one you adore or an equestrian mammal that serves a useful purpose. Conversely, badass ascribes excellence and conveys grandeur; whereas bad ass describes an undesirable outcome from a promiscuous lifestyle or an unruly farm animal.


jincuteguy said:


> Anyone knows the flow direction like which port is In and Out for the Optimus Intel Foundation cpu block? Or it does not matter ?


 The easy way to remember with almost any CPU block is the inlet places water directly over the center of the fins, and the fins are often difficult to see if the top is not clear. However, the outlet is closer to the edge of the block and you can usually see the outer portion of the fins by looking through the outlet port.


----------



## Section31

superguest said:


> I don't mind buying an S3 in the right configuration and at the right price.


Might take a while as caselabs revival still running into issues. So value still there for existing owners. 
Lianli screwed up the v3000+ and with its price, don’t see many caselabs owners jumping ship.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

MrFox said:


> Maybe it's just because I'm an old fart but I find English is a pretty easy language to use if you use it correctly. Bad means not good, not bad as in good, and butt is the junior high school version of ass, and ass is never good unless it relates to an intimate encounter with one you adore or an equestrian mammal that serves a useful purpose. Conversely, badass ascribes excellence and conveys grandeur; whereas bad ass describes an undesirable outcome from a promiscuous lifestyle or an unruly farm animal.



I know I was just joking with him a bit

I’ve watched a couple of your Youtube video’s and how you set up your waterchiller and tubes,I must say I like it! That waterchiller isn’t cheap either,Hailea 500A is here in Canada on Amazon $989cad.
But are they loud? 
Under loud what would you say how many times does it turn on,I’ve never used them tbh not even heard about that people use them for watercooling.


----------



## chibi

Just another reminder to clean out your blocks. New CPU & GPU block taken out of packaging yesterday and cleaned before installation. Here is a snapshot of my cleaning tub. Distilled water and a squirt of dish soap.


----------



## dwolvin

Jeebus, were they visibly dirty? That looks like the blocks would have been covered by a visible amount of dirt...


----------



## MrFox

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I know I was just joking with him a bit
> 
> I’ve watched a couple of your Youtube video’s and how you set up your waterchiller and tubes,I must say I like it! That waterchiller isn’t cheap either,Hailea 500A is here in Canada on Amazon $989cad.
> But are they loud?
> Under loud what would you say how many times does it turn on,I’ve never used them tbh not even heard about that people use them for watercooling.


Thank you. I am happy to know you have found some of my videos useful at some level.

Loud is kind of subjective to the extent that what is loud to one person may not be to another. I do not consider it to be loud. It is basically like a mini-refrigerator and sounds like one. The fan is fairly large. You can hear the compressor running. So, it is by no means silent but not obnoxious (to me). It cycles on and off depending on the temperature you set it to and the ambient temperatures. When it cycles off, everything stops (fan and compressor) so it is silent. When I am benching I run it full blast and it never turns off because it is trying to get the water to a temperature lower than it can achieve. If I set it to say 15°C it will turn off once the water reaches that temperature. When the water warms up again it will kick back on and run until it cools it back down to 15°C. I do not know what the range is. It may kick on when the water reaches 18°C (just a guess). The warmer the ambient temperatures are, the harder it has to work and the more it kicks on. The higher (warmer) you have the chiller set, the less it kicks on.

They are expensive, but when you stop and consider that it is a "gift that keeps on giving" and spans many generations of hardware, it is actually quite affordable. It is cheaper than one enthusiast-grade GPU, and cheaper than an HEDT CPU, but it may last as long as 5 or even 10 generations of CPUs and GPUs with a one-time purchase. When you view it that way it is a great upgrade that is worth every cent.

The only potentially objectionable feature to it is the warm air it produces. I use a box fan to blow the warm air away from the chiller toward my office door. I open my window in the winter and the chiller is under the window. Same as a heat sink or radiator, the fan blowing through it creates hot air. The chiller creates a little more hot air because it is making the water much colder than a heat sink or radiator.


----------



## chibi

dwolvin said:


> Jeebus, were they visibly dirty? That looks like the blocks would have been covered by a visible amount of dirt...


A bit, if you looked in the inlet/outlet of the CPU block, you could see the black debris. My guess is that the foam padding used in the packaging got into the block. I detailed this in a previous post a few months ago when I received the blocks and showed the debris from packaging. See this POST for reference.

On a side note, here's another update from my extended flush experiment.
Cliff notes:

24 hour vinegar soak
flush both rads with 4 litres of distilled water (shake and bake method)
6 hours Blitz 1 soak
flush both rads again with 4 litres of distilled
ran Blitz 2 over night
flush both rads again with 4 litres of distilled
connected external loop with an inline filter
been changing the water every 2 days with new distilled
every water change also includes a change of flow direction through the rads
been running the loop 24/7 since Jan 5

Here's what the filter looks like as of this moment, Feb 18th.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> A bit, if you looked in the inlet/outlet of the CPU block, you could see the black debris. My guess is that the foam padding used in the packaging got into the block. I detailed this in a previous post a few months ago when I received the blocks and showed the debris from packaging. See this POST for reference.
> 
> On a side note, here's another update from my extended flush experiment.
> Cliff notes:
> 
> 24 hour vinegar soak
> flush both rads with 4 litres of distilled water (shake and bake method)
> 6 hours Blitz 1 soak
> flush both rads again with 4 litres of distilled
> ran Blitz 2 over night
> flush both rads again with 4 litres of distilled
> connected external loop with an inline filter
> been changing the water every 2 days with new distilled
> every water change also includes a change of flow direction through the rads
> been running the loop 24/7 since Jan 5
> 
> Here's what the filter looks like as of this moment, Feb 18th.
> 
> View attachment 2549259


You need to talk with Shawnb99, we need to buy 31L ultrasonic to share if true


----------



## Section31

superguest said:


> I don't mind buying an S3 in the right configuration and at the right price.


Me and some people are considering some interesting add-ons
1. Super Extended Top (think 90-120mm)
2. Distro Bay Reservoir that can be mounted on the flexbay with support for dual pumps.


----------



## superguest

Section31 said:


> Me and some people are considering some interesting add-ons
> 1. Super Extended Top (think 90-120mm)
> 2. Distro Bay Reservoir that can be mounted on the flexbay with support for dual pumps.


How is the extended top being made and when do you see it happening?


----------



## Section31

superguest said:


> How is the extended top being made and when do you see it happening?


Will find out whenever it's ready. Privately organized thing.


----------



## KedarWolf

HyperMatrix said:


> That would be unfortunate especially since Samsung, the makers of QD-OLED, are pros at making light absorbing gloss film for their TVs. I definitely won't be buying this if it's not glossy. I'll wait for a 32-34" 4K 16:9 OLED hoping that it will be glossy. I'll take glossy OLED over matte film QD-OLED. Some will disagree but in my opinion matte filters look like butt. I'll just play on my 77" OLED.
> 
> Looking at this pic from vincent teoh's youtube video, the frame of the monitor looks to be glossy. Generally matte films cover the entire screen, including the flat bezels/frame. So there's a chance it could be glossy. Especially with all those finger prints on the screen itself. There is hope.
> 
> View attachment 2548820
> 
> 
> Video for reference:


My monitor adventure.

A Samsung Odyssey Neo G9 monitor was on sale for $800 off at a local store, yesterday was the last day of the sale. 5120x1440 49' ultrawide, HDR 2000 GSync/FreeSync, 240Hz screen.

However I don't get my tax refund for another week or so, and they wouldn't hold it that long at the sale price. My sis, who often helps me, couldn't lend me $2000 CAD to get it.

Another store had it on backorder and would lock it in at the sale price for a $200 deposit. So I contacted Memory Express, told them this, the guy talked to the manager and agreed to hold it at the sale price for $200 down. They had one left in stock.

I'm sooooo happy, I'd never be able to get it at the full price which was close to $3000. 

I have a water-cooled Strix OC RTX 3090 to drive it. That resolution works out in total pixels to be about 89% of 4K total pixels.


----------



## cookiesowns

Anyone have any ideas what the negatives would be if I flip the inlet outlet on the 3090 KPE water block? My loop is setup so that inlet is at the top and outlet at the bottom, and flipping the order of the loop would be a huge PITA.

If it's just a few C in differences I think I'll take the loss, but if it's more than that, or will cause issues I will figure out an alternative.


----------



## superguest

cookiesowns said:


> Anyone have any ideas what the negatives would be if I flip the inlet outlet on the 3090 KPE water block? My loop is setup so that inlet is at the top and outlet at the bottom, and flipping the order of the loop would be a huge PITA.
> 
> If it's just a few C in differences I think I'll take the loss, but if it's more than that, or will cause issues I will figure out an alternative.


When did you receive your block?


----------



## KedarWolf

I'm sure this has been answered before, but the search on overclock.net is terrible.

What wm/k thermal pads does Optimus use on their Strix OC block? I might be in the market for one.

Edit: Oh, and is there non-UPS Worldwide shipping NOT UPS. I ask because UPS charges terrible fees to ship to Canada. I want a non-UPS option.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

MrFox said:


> Thank you. I am happy to know you have found some of my videos useful at some level.
> 
> Loud is kind of subjective to the extent that what is loud to one person may not be to another. I do not consider it to be loud. It is basically like a mini-refrigerator and sounds like one. The fan is fairly large. You can hear the compressor running. So, it is by no means silent but not obnoxious (to me). It cycles on and off depending on the temperature you set it to and the ambient temperatures. When it cycles off, everything stops (fan and compressor) so it is silent. When I am benching I run it full blast and it never turns off because it is trying to get the water to a temperature lower than it can achieve. If I set it to say 15°C it will turn off once the water reaches that temperature. When the water warms up again it will kick back on and run until it cools it back down to 15°C. I do not know what the range is. It may kick on when the water reaches 18°C (just a guess). The warmer the ambient temperatures are, the harder it has to work and the more it kicks on. The higher (warmer) you have the chiller set, the less it kicks on.
> 
> They are expensive, but when you stop and consider that it is a "gift that keeps on giving" and spans many generations of hardware, it is actually quite affordable. It is cheaper than one enthusiast-grade GPU, and cheaper than an HEDT CPU, but it may last as long as 5 or even 10 generations of CPUs and GPUs with a one-time purchase. When you view it that way it is a great upgrade that is worth every cent.
> 
> The only potentially objectionable feature to it is the warm air it produces. I use a box fan to blow the warm air away from the chiller toward my office door. I open my window in the winter and the chiller is under the window. Same as a heat sink or radiator, the fan blowing through it creates hot air. The chiller creates a little more hot air because it is making the water much colder than a heat sink or radiator.


@everyone

Honestly,this time I’m not bs’ing or saying stuff for fun but how the F…are your rads,blocks dirty like that? (Meant for everyone)
Are you guys cleaning it to the point that your stripping off stuff from the inside and it’s a never ending story or what’s going on?
I cleaned my EK 360XE rad and Heatkiller Rad-L with coke overnight and used cheapo distilled water to rinse them. Even that was like a 10min thing shook it hard almost got a concussion and that was it. I didn’t touch any CPU/GPU block,opened them up or anything. As said a month ago I’ve had to do some stuff on it and removed 80% of the liquid (distilled+Mayhem’s XT1-V2) and there was zero,absolutely nada not a single piece of anything inside except pure clean drinkable distilled water.
So I have no idea what you all are having inside or are you just overcleaning it to the point it’s stripping stuff inside and then you can do this for 50 years you’ll still have a dark thing pop out?!
I’m just curious to how come I didn’t have anything and whatever you get/buy is dirty as hell? It can’t be based on pure luck,right?! Maybe I’m just not that specific in cleaning but then again I was running it daily for 4ish months and there was nothing. After 4 months I think it]f there should’ve been anything inside it should pop out by then or not?


@MrFox 

For me personally I absolutely don not care about noice,even if it’s louder that doesn’t bother me at all. I’m not to anal about noice,even now I’ve set my 12 fans to run 100% at water temp’s above 30 degrees and you can hear them but after 20sec my mind doesn’t really focus on them anymore.
So a waterchiller won’t bother me at all,but I’m interested a lot to buy one and hook it up myself. Do I need it? NOPE but then again I don’t really need a pc either and spent 8k on one so…

So would you say the Hailea 500A like yours is the way to go or is that one somewhat outdated? I’m asking because I’m totally clueless,if you know what’s better or if you would’ve done something better for your first run I appreciate any info you can share. Links,what to buy,what to look for and be careful of etc etc…


----------



## chibi

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> @everyone
> 
> Honestly,this time I’m not bs’ing or saying stuff for fun but how the F…are your rads,blocks dirty like that? (Meant for everyone)


No idea bro, I've read a lot of claims from people saying they just do an overnight soak of "xxx" and then flush and their coolant is crystal clear after "xxx" time. On the other hand, I would have done something similar too, but this time I was waiting on parts so I just keep the flush going. As you can see, mine are in the super dirty category lol. 

Unfortunately, my loop is back on pending for the time being so the flushing continues!


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

chibi said:


> No idea bro, I've read a lot of claims from people saying they just do an overnight soak of "xxx" and then flush and their coolant is crystal clear after "xxx" time. On the other hand, I would have done something similar too, but this time I was waiting on parts so I just keep the flush going. As you can see, mine are in the super dirty category lol.
> 
> Unfortunately, my loop is back on pending for the time being so the flushing continues!



I was reading how people were saying the EK rads are horribly dirty etc etc…the 1st run cleaning the XE rad there was nothing inside! Like absolutely nothing and it was soaked to the top in coke for over 12h,just took hot tap water and rinsed the coke for 10min. Afterwards normal distilled and shock it good for 10min (3x for like 2-3min) to clean out the tap water. That was it…
Same for the HeatKiller Rad,OPTIMUS CPU/GPU weren’t touched and there’s nothing popping out. I took a serious good look at both cpu and gpu block and I don’t see anything inside,looks clean as day one.
That’s where I had a “*** are they talking” moment

Maybe you got unlucky idk with your stuff? Could be they’re in hurry because of backlog and just ship it out as fast as possible and don’t give a poop that it’s dirty inside? Just an idea


----------



## HyperMatrix

KedarWolf said:


> Edit: Oh, and is there non-UPS Worldwide shipping NOT UPS. I ask because UPS charges terrible fees to ship to Canada. I want a non-UPS option.


UPS only charges a ton when it's UPS Ground or "UPS Standard" as they call it . FedEx does the same with their ground service. With any of their non-ground services including international economy, the fee is something between $12-$15 CAD brokerage fee + GST on the declared value of the goods. So a $500 CAD value item sent with any of the non-ground UPS services would require a payment of roughly $37 CAD here in Alberta.


----------



## Section31

You guys will have an kicker out of this but Optimus has not sent out even an fittings/extra gasket order in two weeks. Just waiting for PPCS to restock on QD4 and will be placing order for stuff


----------



## dwolvin

To you or out of the site?


----------



## MrFox

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> So would you say the Hailea 500A like yours is the way to go or is that one somewhat outdated? I’m asking because I’m totally clueless,if you know what’s better or if you would’ve done something better for your first run I appreciate any info you can share. Links,what to buy,what to look for and be careful of etc etc…


I will get some links for you later tonight or tomorrow. These are all basically made about the same, so becoming obsolete isn't a problem. Hailea chillers are one of several brand names you will see applied to otherwise identical products. You want at least 0.5 horsepower. Less than that will not get cold enough.

Edit: this is exactly the same product just branded as Hydrofarm.






Water & Aeration :: Water Heaters & Chillers







www.sea-of-green.com





You can get the G1/4 adapters fittings from performance-pcs.com.

Sometimes you can get a good deal on a used one, but just be careful because you can also get burned by one that someone has abused. They are commonly used for chilling fish aquariums and for hydroponics and that type of environment is usually not nearly as gentle as using a chiller to cool PC water. They can get really filthy in a dirty environment if people don't take good care of them. But that is one of the reasons why sometimes you can find them really cheap second hand and they will clean up nicely as long as everything is in working order.

Chillers do not have an integrated pump, which is generally not going to be an issue for someone with a custom loop in a computer. However, if you buy one with the idea that it's going to have its own pump built in, just be aware that is not the case.


----------



## iamjanco

Section31 said:


> You guys will have an kicker out of this but Optimus has not sent out even an fittings/extra gasket order in two weeks. Just waiting for PPCS to restock on QD4 and will be placing order for stuff


Has *anyone* heard anything from Optimus recently? They haven't tweeted anything new since before the end of last year (Dec 27th).


----------



## HyperMatrix

iamjanco said:


> Has *anyone* heard anything from Optimus recently? They haven't tweeted anything new since before the end of last year (Dec 27th).


They replied to my email on Jan 31 and shipped out a replacement backplate with thermal pad on Feb 1.


----------



## cookiesowns

superguest said:


> When did you receive your block?


a few days ago. No one has any insight to loop orientation?


----------



## MrFox

cookiesowns said:


> Anyone have any ideas what the negatives would be if I flip the inlet outlet on the 3090 KPE water block? My loop is setup so that inlet is at the top and outlet at the bottom, and flipping the order of the loop would be a huge PITA.
> 
> If it's just a few C in differences I think I'll take the loss, but if it's more than that, or will cause issues I will figure out an alternative.





cookiesowns said:


> a few days ago. No one has any insight to loop orientation?


In most circumstances it won't make any difference. If it's going to be inconvenient to change it why don't you at least just try it and let us know how it turns out. It may not be the ideal flow scenario, but I bet it doesn't make a massive difference.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> They replied to my email on Jan 31 and shipped out a replacement backplate with thermal pad on Feb 1.



Wait so you still aren’t using your KPE?
I just thought you didn’t post anything anymore and the replacement was a finished thing. So you’re telling me OPTIMUS is charging $600usd and doesn’t have 10 extra blocks incase something goes wrong like in your case? **** that even more reason to ****ing avoid them. 

Everything around them is getting more and more fishy,huge redflags all over the place


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

If any one wants to buy optimus block for kpe just pm me. Unused still in box. Will just keep going aio
Sold


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Wait so you still aren’t using your KPE?
> I just thought you didn’t post anything anymore and the replacement was a finished thing. So you’re telling me OPTIMUS is charging $600usd and doesn’t have 10 extra blocks incase something goes wrong like in your case? **** that even more reason to ****ing avoid them.
> 
> Everything around them is getting more and more fishy,huge redflags all over the place


No I’ve been using my block. They were supposed to send out replacement for my original one that had bends in it due to the original install and some bleeding that fortunately hasn’t turned into leaking. I requested the replacement backplate back around Christmas I think. Didn’t get a response right away. But being the holidays and New Years and stuff I didn’t bother checking back with them to get a confirmation. Emailed them again asking what's up on Jan 27th. No response. Emailed just a question mark to them on Jan 31st. Replied same day and said they'll ship a replacement out next day which they did.

Still happy with performance on my block.Got 2 Mo-Ra 3s in couple days ago and gonna add them to the loop. Going to see if I can keep loop temperature close enough to ambient air to be able to game at under 30C with 500W+. 

Not making excuses for their terrible customer service and lack of communication.They definitely get a big F there. But at least I have 0 doubts about the performance of their products.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> No I’ve been using my block. They were supposed to send out replacement for my original one that had bends in it due to the original install and some bleeding that fortunately hasn’t turned into leaking. I requested the replacement backplate back around Christmas I think. Didn’t get a response right away. But being the holidays and New Years and stuff I didn’t bother checking back with them to get a confirmation. Emailed them again asking what's up on Jan 27th. No response. Emailed just a question mark to them on Jan 31st. Replied same day and said they'll ship a replacement out next day which they did.
> 
> Still happy with performance on my block.Got 2 Mo-Ra 3s in couple days ago and gonna add them to the loop. Going to see if I can keep loop temperature close enough to ambient air to be able to game at under 30C with 500W+.
> 
> Not making excuses for their terrible customer service and lack of communication.They definitely get a big F there. But at least I have 0 doubts about the performance of their products.



It’s kind of funny that you had to email them 3 times because every enthusiast for watercooling knows your story and the initial install.
Did it cross their minds to get in contact with about the issue?! Wow
One would think that OPTIMUS would kinda get back to you by themselves and help you out.
Idk if it’s just me,am I missing here something or did the world change so badly in the last 2 years but **** man it’s so ridiculous that it’s honestly re-tarded.
Selling a $600usd block and you aren’t anywhere to be seen or heard for a month+.
Eff OPTIMUS,the more of this crap I see the more I’m disgusted with them…completely idiotic behaviour towards it’s customers.

Atleast you were able to use it,initially I thought you just didn’t want any smoke with my Strix 3090 OC so you went quite. But then I’m thinking “HyperMatrix never posted a update,never showed us his build what’s going on?”


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Atleast you were able to use it,initially I thought you just didn’t want any smoke with my Strix 3090 OC so you went quite. But then I’m thinking “HyperMatrix never posted a update,never showed us his build what’s going on?”


Haha well the block ended up depressing me. It was so good at throwing heat into my loop that my 2x 480mm and 2x 360mm radiators with 3000rpm push/pull config wasn't able to maintain an adequate water delta over ambient air temp. So I ordered 2x Mo-Ra3. Just arrived a few days ago and working on putting it all together...though it'll be a little bit longer as still waiting for fan controllers to arrive and order some more quick disconnects from Koolance. As for benching, I really didn't feel like going back to opening the window and making it ice cold and installing a clean OS for optimized bench number. I was very happy with the short-term stability for gaming. And very unhappy with the long-term stability. Particularly when it got to the 38C+ mark. So I dialed down the OC and waiting until the Mo-Ra3 enters the fray and I can _hopefully_ stay below 34C under 600W+ load during extended sessions.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

HyperMatrix said:


> Haha well the block ended up depressing me. It was so good at throwing heat into my loop that my 2x 480mm and 2x 360mm radiators with 3000rpm push/pull config wasn't able to maintain an adequate water delta over ambient air temp. So I ordered 2x Mo-Ra3. Just arrived a few days ago and working on putting it all together...though it'll be a little bit longer as still waiting for fan controllers to arrive and order some more quick disconnects from Koolance. As for benching, I really didn't feel like going back to opening the window and making it ice cold and installing a clean OS for optimized bench number. I was very happy with the short-term stability for gaming. And very unhappy with the long-term stability. Particularly when it got to the 38C+ mark. So I dialed down the OC and waiting until the Mo-Ra3 enters the fray and I can _hopefully_ stay below 34C under 600W+ load during extended sessions.
> View attachment 2549483
> 
> View attachment 2549481
> 
> View attachment 2549482


Are you keeping the 2x420 and 1x360 and mounting the reservoirs inside the case?


----------



## elbramso

HyperMatrix said:


> Haha well the block ended up depressing me. It was so good at throwing heat into my loop that my 2x 480mm and 2x 360mm radiators with 3000rpm push/pull config wasn't able to maintain an adequate water delta over ambient air temp. So I ordered 2x Mo-Ra3. Just arrived a few days ago and working on putting it all together...though it'll be a little bit longer as still waiting for fan controllers to arrive and order some more quick disconnects from Koolance. As for benching, I really didn't feel like going back to opening the window and making it ice cold and installing a clean OS for optimized bench number. I was very happy with the short-term stability for gaming. And very unhappy with the long-term stability. Particularly when it got to the 38C+ mark. So I dialed down the OC and waiting until the Mo-Ra3 enters the fray and I can _hopefully_ stay below 34C under 600W+ load during extended sessions.
> View attachment 2549483
> 
> View attachment 2549481
> 
> View attachment 2549482


Mo-ra3 420?


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

I love the look of the MORA’S! Every pc I see with a MORA it looks good,they give that special look to any pc imo.
Thinking of maybe getting 2 myself even tho I’m satisfied with the performance/temps I have now. At this point anything I do on my pc is just for me to learn/play around with. I love working on stuff I’ve never tried and building something new. Keeps me busy and makes a lot of fun.
That’s why I asked about the waterchiller,that’s also one thing I’d like to do.

When you finish everything make a couple of pics would love to see the finished build!


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I love the look of the MORA’S! Every pc I see with a MORA it looks good,they give that special look to any pc imo.
> Thinking of maybe getting 2 myself even tho I’m satisfied with the performance/temps I have now. At this point anything I do on my pc is just for me to learn/play around with. I love working on stuff I’ve never tried and building something new. Keeps me busy and makes a lot of fun.
> That’s why I asked about the waterchiller,that’s also one thing I’d like to do.
> 
> When you finish everything make a couple of pics would love to see the finished build!


Your welcome to have mine (probably giving away) at some point. Just waiting for internal 560mm from watercool or optimus and do an diy external rad. Hopefully by then Watercool will come with its d5 next like pumps so I can get away from Aquacomputer D5 Next. That and Phantek T30-140 for fans.

On side note, sometimes it an pain/dealing with buyers that i rather just give some old stuff away. Just finally was able to give away my Topre R2 PFU LE TKL board (300usd msrp) that i have replaced with custom boards. So many people want to pay me shipping only and i do all the shipping work. Super high value i get but free stuff forget about it. I ended up introducing 10-15cad service fee to all free items to get people to actually do the shipping themselves.

International selling is really an pain lol. You can give away stuff like switches/keycaps/small items and all deals fall through because nobody want to do the shipping part. I am hopeful my deal regarding an groupbuy board goes through though other guys running into difficulties paying me (I want to change it to direct shipping to him to reduce hassle and paying expensive international shipping costs).


----------



## Urez

HyperMatrix said:


> Haha well the block ended up depressing me. It was so good at throwing heat into my loop that my 2x 480mm and 2x 360mm radiators with 3000rpm push/pull config wasn't able to maintain an adequate water delta over ambient air temp. So I ordered 2x Mo-Ra3. Just arrived a few days ago and working on putting it all together...though it'll be a little bit longer as still waiting for fan controllers to arrive and order some more quick disconnects from Koolance. As for benching, I really didn't feel like going back to opening the window and making it ice cold and installing a clean OS for optimized bench number. I was very happy with the short-term stability for gaming. And very unhappy with the long-term stability. Particularly when it got to the 38C+ mark. So I dialed down the OC and waiting until the Mo-Ra3 enters the fray and I can _hopefully_ stay below 34C under 600W+ load during extended sessions.
> View attachment 2549483
> 
> View attachment 2549481
> 
> View attachment 2549482


Excuse me if i lost your description, but why you are keeping pumps in a highest point (reversed installation)? Don't you afraid of dry start or your Mo-Ra3's will be in the lowest point of the whole setup ?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Your welcome to have mine (probably giving away) at some point. Just waiting for internal 560mm from watercool or optimus and do an diy external rad.


You've been _waiting _on Watercool to release a MO-RA 4 for a while now. If you are _waiting _for Watercool or Optimus for anything, then boy, I don't know what to tell you. I'm just glad I was able to purchase my German watercooling equipment before European factories are allocated for tank and bicycle production.


----------



## iamjanco

geriatricpollywog said:


> I'm just glad I was able to purchase my German watercooling equipment before _European factories are allocated for tank and bicycle production._


There's that elephant in the room again...


----------



## KedarWolf

geriatricpollywog said:


> You've been _waiting _on Watercool to release a MO-RA 4 for a while now. If you are _waiting _for Watercool or Optimus for anything, then boy, I don't know what to tell you. I'm just glad I was able to purchase my German watercooling equipment before European factories are allocated for tank and bicycle production.
> 
> View attachment 2549581
> 
> 
> View attachment 2549582


Buying a Strix 3090 block in a few days. Maybe get it within two months?


----------



## iamjanco

^Might be a good idea to consult a mystic. Their guess would be as good as anyone else's.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

KedarWolf said:


> Buying a Strix 3090 block in a few days. Maybe get it within two months?


----------



## Section31

geriatricpollywog said:


> You've been _waiting _on Watercool to release a MO-RA 4 for a while now. If you are _waiting _for Watercool or Optimus for anything, then boy, I don't know what to tell you. I'm just glad I was able to purchase my German watercooling equipment before European factories are allocated for tank and bicycle production.
> 
> View attachment 2549581
> 
> 
> View attachment 2549582


Im fairly well setup for while so no rush and can wait it out. Focus on watercooling and building pcs.

Stop watching the news so much. I hope you don’t become the next oldskrupples and disappear on us.


----------



## Section31

geriatricpollywog said:


> View attachment 2549585


Also stay on topic. The mods will kill this thread if you guys go offtopic again

Maybe i should you guys go offtopic more so this thread closes too. Not like Optimus even comes here anymore.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Also stay on topic. The mods will kill this thread if you guys go offtopic again
> 
> Maybe i should you guys go offtopic more so this thread closes too. Not like Optimus even comes here anymore.


Aquacomputer already has the AMS series radiators. They appear to be Watercool quality. Stainless steel construction, modular end caps, pump integration. Aquacomputer would make fantastic cooling systems for armored vehicles.


----------



## HyperMatrix

elbramso said:


> Mo-ra3 420?


Yes sir.



ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I love the look of the MORA’S! Every pc I see with a MORA it looks good,they give that special look to any pc imo.
> Thinking of maybe getting 2 myself even tho I’m satisfied with the performance/temps I have now. At this point anything I do on my pc is just for me to learn/play around with. I love working on stuff I’ve never tried and building something new. Keeps me busy and makes a lot of fun.
> That’s why I asked about the waterchiller,that’s also one thing I’d like to do.
> 
> When you finish everything make a couple of pics would love to see the finished build!


Will do. I'm just hoping with the overkill of 2 push/pull config Mo-Ra3 420s as well as my 2x 480mm and 2x 360mm HWL GTR rads, I'll be able to try out some of this "silent build" stuff people keep talking about. Haha. I've generally just gone with max power for max performance, letting the surround sound speakers overpower the fans.



Urez said:


> Excuse me if i lost your description, but why you are keeping pumps in a highest point (reversed installation)? Don't you afraid of dry start or your Mo-Ra3's will be in the lowest point of the whole setup ?


That's a very good point that I didn't even think about. I don't turn on pumps until the ones on my reservoirs have filled the system so technically it should be fine, but you're right that it's still an unnecessary risk in case of air bubbles and the like, with no gains to be had. I will likely flip them before I do the install next month. Thanks.


----------



## LiquidHaus

With this talk of AC's AMS and Watercool's MORA radiators, these style radiator assemblies should be brought up again, as they are not as efficient as traditional flat tube radiator assemblies.

From Thermalbench -

"As such, the MO-RA3 is a quad row radiator, and this parallel split 4-ways helps keep restriction low. It is very much needed, however, as these 4 tubes have 20 passes each through the core before the coolant exits from the other corner. Most radiators used internally have 1-2 rows of coolant tubes, with each row having 6-7 further splits in parallel per pass (with dual pass radiators being the most common). If the MO-RA3 was using thin, flat tubes then liquid flow restriction would be off any charts I have made so far. In order to compensate for this, Watercool has gone with big, round refrigerator compressor style coolant tubes. The average tube ID is 6.85 mm, and the average tube OD is 7.7 mm. To give more context, an average radiator coolant tube thickness is 2.1 mm. So while this was necessary to keep liquid flow restriction somewhat reasonable, it also means that coolant heat transfer from the tubes to the fins will be hurt:


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> With this talk of AC's AMS and Watercool's MORA radiators, these style radiator assemblies should be brought up again, as they are not as efficient as traditional flat tube radiator assemblies.
> 
> From Thermalbench -
> 
> "As such, the MO-RA3 is a quad row radiator, and this parallel split 4-ways helps keep restriction low. It is very much needed, however, as these 4 tubes have 20 passes each through the core before the coolant exits from the other corner. Most radiators used internally have 1-2 rows of coolant tubes, with each row having 6-7 further splits in parallel per pass (with dual pass radiators being the most common). If the MO-RA3 was using thin, flat tubes then liquid flow restriction would be off any charts I have made so far. In order to compensate for this, Watercool has gone with big, round refrigerator compressor style coolant tubes. The average tube ID is 6.85 mm, and the average tube OD is 7.7 mm. To give more context, an average radiator coolant tube thickness is 2.1 mm. So while this was necessary to keep liquid flow restriction somewhat reasonable, it also means that coolant heat transfer from the tubes to the fins will be hurt:


Great response.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

LiquidHaus said:


> With this talk of AC's AMS and Watercool's MORA radiators, these style radiator assemblies should be brought up again, as they are not as efficient as traditional flat tube radiator assemblies.
> 
> From Thermalbench -
> 
> "As such, the MO-RA3 is a quad row radiator, and this parallel split 4-ways helps keep restriction low. It is very much needed, however, as these 4 tubes have 20 passes each through the core before the coolant exits from the other corner. Most radiators used internally have 1-2 rows of coolant tubes, with each row having 6-7 further splits in parallel per pass (with dual pass radiators being the most common). If the MO-RA3 was using thin, flat tubes then liquid flow restriction would be off any charts I have made so far. In order to compensate for this, Watercool has gone with big, round refrigerator compressor style coolant tubes. The average tube ID is 6.85 mm, and the average tube OD is 7.7 mm. To give more context, an average radiator coolant tube thickness is 2.1 mm. So while this was necessary to keep liquid flow restriction somewhat reasonable, it also means that coolant heat transfer from the tubes to the fins will be hurt:


The paragraph you quoted does not state that the MO-RA assembly is less efficient than a traditional radiator assembly. It states that a round tube transfers heat less effectively to the radiator fins than a flat tube.

A round tube radiator assembly could compensate by having more tubing and end up with the same efficiency.


----------



## LiquidHaus

geriatricpollywog said:


> The paragraph you quoted does not state that the MO-RA assembly is less efficient than a traditional radiator assembly. It states that a round tube transfers heat less effectively to the radiator fins than a flat tube.
> 
> A round tube radiator assembly could compensate by having more tubing and end up with the same efficiency.


You can go read the article if you'd like. Watercool Heatkiller MO-RA3 420 Pro Radiator

It literally is less efficient than traditional flat tube. The MORA makes up for it with the sheer amount of round tube. AMS radiators don't have that luxury, unless you maybe try out that 6x140 model.

The MORA would be extremely restrictive if they went flat tube. So much so that it'd hinder a loop more than help it.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> You can go read the article if you'd like. Watercool Heatkiller MO-RA3 420 Pro Radiator
> 
> It literally is less efficient than traditional flat tube. The MORA makes up for it with the sheer amount of round tube. AMS radiators don't have that luxury, unless you maybe try out that 6x140 model.
> 
> The MORA would be extremely restrictive if they went flat tube. So much so that it'd hinder a loop more than help it.


Your Diy External Rad is direction im going with. I am probably stuck with my S8 for longer so im moving ahead with plans to modernize the case with custom parts and keep it in service.

Probably over next 2-3years will think of other aspects i can modernize. Will be long process but worth it in the end.


----------



## KedarWolf

Just ordered my Strix OC RTX 3090 block two minutes ago. 

Edit: I'll let you peeps know how long it takes to ship.


----------



## bearsdidit

KedarWolf said:


> Just ordered my Strix OC RTX 3090 block two minutes ago.
> 
> Edit: I'll let you peeps know how long it takes to ship.


Congrats, I absolutely love mine. 

I ordered a res + signature in early Feb that were supposed to be in stock. However, after exchanging a few emails with Optimus, they indicated that they were still waiting on a few items for the res and it would probably ship early March. It is really disappointing since their website still shows the res in stock!


----------



## Section31

bearsdidit said:


> Congrats, I absolutely love mine.
> 
> I ordered a res + signature in early Feb that were supposed to be in stock. However, after exchanging a few emails with Optimus, they indicated that they were still waiting on a few items for the res and it would probably ship early March. It is really disappointing since their website still shows the res in stock!


Yeah, Optimus is bit of mess in shipping atm.


----------



## KedarWolf

bearsdidit said:


> Congrats, I absolutely love mine.
> 
> I ordered a res + signature in early Feb that were supposed to be in stock. However, after exchanging a few emails with Optimus, they indicated that they were still waiting on a few items for the res and it would probably ship early March. It is really disappointing since their website still shows the res in stock!


For the block says they are in production and 4-6 weeks, but I know it'll likely be longer.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

KedarWolf said:


> For the block says they are in production and 4-6 weeks, but I know it'll likely be longer.


If it makes you feel any better you’ll have it up and running before Fall this year! 🙂


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> If it makes you feel any better you’ll have it up and running before Fall this year! 🙂


Don't make promises you can't keep.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> Don't make promises you can't keep.



Applauding 🤝

That made me giggle like a 5 year old girl! Honestly didn’t expect such a comeback,was funny 😆


----------



## yaohanzex

Anything except performance claim on Optimus website is a lie.


----------



## LiquidHaus

constantly updating this thing. though I think this is how it'll stay until new gen hardware comes out.


----------



## KedarWolf

I never looked at the installation instructions. But in that inlet, outlet the correct way to do an Optimus GPU block, or could I put them both in the front ports?

Edit: I looked at the Strix OC instructions. I think they suggest the front ports.


----------



## KedarWolf

ORDER #OP6995 Can anyone else share their order number that just got their block recently?


----------



## Biggu

LiquidHaus said:


> constantly updating this thing. though I think this is how it'll stay until new gen hardware comes out.


man the sleaving on the tube looks fantastic. Also the coolant color looks great with the black.


----------



## iamjanco

^I'll second that!


----------



## chibi

Hey guys, just wanted to share my experience with a FTW3 block. Mine is the new matte black cerakote mid plate. Last week when I started my build, I rinsed out the gpu + cpu blocks as per previous post. In the process of doing so, I also changed out my GPU cold plate with the copper version.

When going to screw in the copper cold plate, I started with turning the screws counter clockwise so they would seat in the threads correctly. Once I felt the click, I then did a quarter turn for each screw, alternating in the star pattern - like changing a tire.

All 4 screws now are seated, and threading started, I then proceeded to tighten the screws. At this point, I want to emphasize that I'm not gorilla gripping the application and just going about how I would tighten normally. I got to the last corner and did one full turn before I felt a snap. Thinking to myself, oh shiz, this isn't good. Unscrewed all corners to assess the situation. Thread has broken off and now the screw will not tighten even without the cold plate.

I look further to check on the other screws and there's bits that are shedding, but more importantly, I can see only 2 threads of depth for the mounting screws. Anyways, I sent in pictures, described the situation as above, and asked for options. Matt was quick to advise he could send out a replacement mid plate. I took him up on the offer and will assess the new mid plate, hopefully this is just a one off.

My suggestion is to be very careful when changing the cold plate for the GPU blocks. My Sig v2 is built like a tank and didn't have the same issue.

Took the cold plate off to inspect damage. Top right corner has broken completely and screw does not tighten at all.









Further inspection of damaged threads.









Last two pics show the other corners, not much threads for the screw to catch.


----------



## MrFox

Biggu said:


> man the sleaving on the tube looks fantastic. Also the coolant color looks great with the black.





iamjanco said:


> ^I'll second that!


And, I third it. @LiquidHaus that looks excellent. What tubing did you use? Or, it is generic braided cover over standard tubing?


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

I forth that! Hey Liquidboy,can you please make a couple more pics from further away so I can see everything nicely? That green liquid looks phenomenal with the matte black! But I can’t see it nicely because both are zoomed in/taken from a close distance…


----------



## Avacado

chibi said:


> Hey guys, just wanted to share my experience with a FTW3 block. Mine is the new matte black cerakote mid plate. Last week when I started my build, I rinsed out the gpu + cpu blocks as per previous post. In the process of doing so, I also changed out my GPU cold plate with the copper version.
> 
> When going to screw in the copper cold plate, I started with turning the screws counter clockwise so they would seat in the threads correctly. Once I felt the click, I then did a quarter turn for each screw, alternating in the star pattern - like changing a tire.
> 
> All 4 screws now are seated, and threading started, I then proceeded to tighten the screws. At this point, I want to emphasize that I'm not gorilla gripping the application and just going about how I would tighten normally. I got to the last corner and did one full turn before I felt a snap. Thinking to myself, oh shiz, this isn't good. Unscrewed all corners to assess the situation. Thread has broken off and now the screw will not tighten even without the cold plate.
> 
> I look further to check on the other screws and there's bits that are shedding, but more importantly, I can see only 2 threads of depth for the mounting screws. Anyways, I sent in pictures, described the situation as above, and asked for options. Matt was quick to advise he could send out a replacement mid plate. I took him up on the offer and will assess the new mid plate, hopefully this is just a one off.
> 
> My suggestion is to be very careful when changing the cold plate for the GPU blocks. My Sig v2 is built like a tank and didn't have the same issue.
> 
> Took the cold plate off to inspect damage. Top right corner has broken completely and screw does not tighten at all.
> View attachment 2549826
> 
> 
> Further inspection of damaged threads.
> View attachment 2549827
> 
> 
> Last two pics show the other corners, not much threads for the screw to catch.
> View attachment 2549829
> 
> View attachment 2549828


They should know better than to thread with copper. Doesn't anyone use brass threading anymore??? Yikes.


----------



## Avacado

KedarWolf said:


> I never looked at the installation instructions. But in that inlet, outlet the correct way to do an Optimus GPU block, or could I put them both in the front ports?
> 
> Edit: I looked at the Strix OC instructions. I think they suggest the front ports.


Front or rear ports do not matter, but the inlet should be on one of the ports (Front or back) that attach to the jet plate segment.


----------



## KedarWolf

Avacado said:


> Front or rear ports do not matter, but the inlet should be on one of the ports (Front or back) that attach to the jet plate segment.


I think they label the inlet and outlet. Is that what you mean?


----------



## KedarWolf

Should I be concerned the EKWB block has many more thermal pads in places than the Optimus block? @Optimus WC


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

STAHP being stupid! If everyone is saying that the performance is awesome whytheF are you now worrying about some thermalpad ****???
People overthinking waaaaay to much,just follow the guide and enjoy your block…I’ve done it and it’s ridiculously good. 

Worry more if you’ll receive it this year then if you have more or less thermalpads


----------



## HyperMatrix

KedarWolf said:


> Should I be concerned the EKWB block has many more thermal pads in places than the Optimus block? @Optimus WC
> 
> View attachment 2549854
> 
> 
> View attachment 2549855


They said no thermal pads there because negligible source of heat. If you're concerned and want to, you can put some thermal paste on them.


----------



## KedarWolf

HyperMatrix said:


> They said no thermal pads there because negligible source of heat. If you're concerned and want to, you can put some thermal paste on them.


Yes, I was just concerned as I never knew why they neglect those areas. Putting thermal paste on the spots will not help though unless there is contact with thermal pads or something.


----------



## KedarWolf

I think some say they get better results putting a bit of thermal paste on the existing pads though.


----------



## criskoe

chibi said:


> Hey guys, just wanted to share my experience with a FTW3 block. Mine is the new matte black cerakote mid plate. Last week when I started my build, I rinsed out the gpu + cpu blocks as per previous post. In the process of doing so, I also changed out my GPU cold plate with the copper version.
> 
> When going to screw in the copper cold plate, I started with turning the screws counter clockwise so they would seat in the threads correctly. Once I felt the click, I then did a quarter turn for each screw, alternating in the star pattern - like changing a tire.
> 
> All 4 screws now are seated, and threading started, I then proceeded to tighten the screws. At this point, I want to emphasize that I'm not gorilla gripping the application and just going about how I would tighten normally. I got to the last corner and did one full turn before I felt a snap. Thinking to myself, oh shiz, this isn't good. Unscrewed all corners to assess the situation. Thread has broken off and now the screw will not tighten even without the cold plate.
> 
> I look further to check on the other screws and there's bits that are shedding, but more importantly, I can see only 2 threads of depth for the mounting screws. Anyways, I sent in pictures, described the situation as above, and asked for options. Matt was quick to advise he could send out a replacement mid plate. I took him up on the offer and will assess the new mid plate, hopefully this is just a one off.
> 
> My suggestion is to be very careful when changing the cold plate for the GPU blocks. My Sig v2 is built like a tank and didn't have the same issue.
> 
> Took the cold plate off to inspect damage. Top right corner has broken completely and screw does not tighten at all.
> View attachment 2549826
> 
> 
> Further inspection of damaged threads.
> View attachment 2549827
> 
> 
> Last two pics show the other corners, not much threads for the screw to catch.
> View attachment 2549829
> 
> View attachment 2549828


@arvinz Had this exact same problem with his block... Optimus swapped it out... When you get it swapped out. Ask for the Phillips version of cold plate screws.


----------



## criskoe

KedarWolf said:


> Yes, I was just concerned as I never knew why they neglect those areas. Putting thermal paste on the spots will not help though unless there is contact with thermal pads or something.


Hes more referring to thermal "Putty". Not paste. Its different. Putty that is designed to fill larger gaps and wont "Pump out". 

Like others have said tho. Its nothing to worry about...


----------



## D-EJ915

Avacado said:


> They should know better than to thread with copper. Doesn't anyone use brass threading anymore??? Yikes.


From electric guitar bridges I'm used to hardened steel inserts, have a few old bridges from the 80s-90s that all stripped like that.


----------



## bearsdidit

KedarWolf said:


> Should I be concerned the EKWB block has many more thermal pads in places than the Optimus block? @Optimus WC
> 
> View attachment 2549854
> 
> 
> View attachment 2549855


Dude, you are going to drive yourself insane with all of this worrying. The block is amazing and you’ll see great results with it. I’ve had both an EK and Corsair block on other GPUs and if I have a choice, will never buy another block besides Optimus.

Bit of a side note: I was playing Warzone tonight and with my fans and pump running at 60%, my max GPU temp was 35c. Ambient was around 20c.


----------



## chibi

criskoe said:


> @arvinz Had this exact same problem with his block... Optimus swapped it out... When you get it swapped out. Ask for the Phillips version of cold plate screws.


Does the Phillips version help at all? I assume the threads would be the same regardless of the type of head, correct?


----------



## criskoe

chibi said:


> Does the Phillips version help at all? I assume the threads would be the same regardless of the type of head, correct?


Your correct the threads are the same. It wont fix your issue. Your gunna have to get Optimus to replace the main block plate.. No way around that... But the cold plate Phillip's version does definitely help moving forward..... It allows for much better torque of the cold plate.... Another user I was DMing with was having massive air leaking issues around the cold plate with the normal Torx 6 heads... Was visible with just a tissue over the block.. You could see air escaping at one of the corners... Wouldn't hold any pressure and he couldn't get it tight enough... The Phillips head screws solved that problem... Cold plate sat flatter and the massive air leak stopped... 

Torx heads in general are good but honestly T6 is just too dam small and fragile... The newer Philips ones are just much better...


----------



## elbramso

I recently redid my pads + LM on my kingpin. I had to use 1mm compressed thermal pads 2 weeks ago so I replaced those with 0.5mm gelid pads. My memory junction went down by 4c 😂 and my die temps are a little lower now as well..


















This leads to a question: how do you measure your delta t gpu to water? 

I'm running Port Royal and use classified tool + AB and target 520w max power draw. Then I let it fly with fixed pump and fanspeed. Then I wait until water temp is solid and start recording temps with hwinfo:


----------



## Biggu

MrFox said:


> And, I third it. @LiquidHaus that looks excellent. What tubing did you use? Or, it is generic braided cover over standard tubing?


Im just guessing but that sleaving looks very simular to MDPC-X Liquid Carbon? Its definite in the Carbon series.


----------



## Avacado

KedarWolf said:


> I think they label the inlet and outlet. Is that what you mean?


No. There are 4 ports correct? 2 on the inlet and 2 on the outlet. I though you were asking if it mattered which side you connected your fittings to. It doesn't.


----------



## elbramso

Avacado said:


> No. There are 4 ports correct? 2 on the inlet and 2 on the outlet. I though you were asking if it mattered which side you connected your fittings to. It doesn't.


Are you talking about the kingpin optimus block? If so, it has 1 inlet and 1 outlet. And it does in fact matter were you connect your fittings.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Your correct the threads are the same. It wont fix your issue. Your gunna have to get Optimus to replace the main block plate.. No way around that... But the cold plate Phillip's version does definitely help moving forward..... It allows for much better torque of the cold plate.... Another user I was DMing with was having massive air leaking issues around the cold plate with the normal Torx 6 heads... Was visible with just a tissue over the block.. You could see air escaping at one of the corners... Wouldn't hold any pressure and he couldn't get it tight enough... The Phillips head screws solved that problem... Cold plate sat flatter and the massive air leak stopped...
> 
> Torx heads in general are good but honestly T6 is just too dam small and fragile... The newer Philips ones are just much better...
> 
> View attachment 2549890


It definitely took me a lot of force/time to secure the torx screws on the coldplate. Also did same thing as chibi and scratched up the screw area.

Good to know though i ain’t doing any more maintenance on the block.

Officially on break from hardware upgrades and watercooling till 2024/2025 at this point. Just watercooling maintenance only. Moved portion of the normal funds into keyboard instead. Still working on caselabs custom parts upgrades.


----------



## Sir Beregond

elbramso said:


> Are you talking about the kingpin optimus block? If so, it has 1 inlet and 1 outlet. And it does in fact matter were you connect your fittings.


You are misunderstanding. Obviously it matter which is inlet or outlet. What doesn't matter is if you go to the inlet from the top or bottom.


----------



## elbramso

Sir Beregond said:


> You are misunderstanding. Obviously it matter which is inlet or outlet. What doesn't matter is if you go to the inlet from the top or bottom.


Nope 😉


----------



## criskoe

Sir Beregond said:


> You are misunderstanding. Obviously it matter which is inlet or outlet. What doesn't matter is if you go to the inlet from the top or bottom.


Have you ever run a Kingpin or any optimus card flow backwards? I know EK says it will only effect temperatures by a few degrees on their blocks when ran backwards. But Ive yet to see anyone actually report back the temp deltas running a optimus card flow backwards...


----------



## chibi

criskoe said:


> Your correct the threads are the same. It wont fix your issue. Your gunna have to get Optimus to replace the main block plate.. No way around that... But the cold plate Phillip's version does definitely help moving forward..... It allows for much better torque of the cold plate.... Another user I was DMing with was having massive air leaking issues around the cold plate with the normal Torx 6 heads... Was visible with just a tissue over the block.. You could see air escaping at one of the corners... Wouldn't hold any pressure and he couldn't get it tight enough... The Phillips head screws solved that problem... Cold plate sat flatter and the massive air leak stopped...
> 
> Torx heads in general are good but honestly T6 is just too dam small and fragile... The newer Philips ones are just much better...
> 
> View attachment 2549890



Thanks, I just put in the request for a set of Phillips as well. It seems counter intuitive to me to get extra torque from the Phillips head, seeing as how delicate the copper screw threads are. I would think they used the Torx screw to implement a soft limit on the amount of pressure exerted.

This whole situation reminds of the first gen Alphacool Nexxxos rads. They were built 100% copper including the end tanks where the fittings connected. There were so many RMA's of failed ports that they switched the design to copper/brass - copper for the rad core and brass for the end tank. Makes sense to use the harder brass there as fittings will usually see a lot of on/off applications.


----------



## MrFox

criskoe said:


> Have you ever run a Kingpin or any optimus card flow backwards? I know EK says it will only effect temperatures by a few degrees on their blocks when ran backwards. But Ive yet to see anyone actually report back the temp deltas running a optimus card flow backwards...
> 
> View attachment 2549914


On the Hydro Copper it makes little or no difference. I reverse my flow periodically to help keep the fins cleaner and don't really notice a change in temperatures. 

You can do this on an Optimus block as well, (CPU or GPU,) but the impact on temps may be greater.

I think the OptimusPC KPE block is designed different at the distribution block because of the active cooled backplate. It seems they run the water in a modified pathway with that setup.


----------



## Sir Beregond

criskoe said:


> Have you ever run a Kingpin or any optimus card flow backwards? I know EK says it will only effect temperatures by a few degrees on their blocks when ran backwards. But Ive yet to see anyone actually report back the temp deltas running a optimus card flow backwards...
> 
> View attachment 2549914


Oh this has an active backplate? That's a different story.



MrFox said:


> On the Hydro Copper it makes little or no difference. I reverse my flow periodically to help keep the fins cleaner and don't really notice a change in temperatures.


Hydro Copper is like the Corsair blocks...there's no jet plate so it literally does not matter. Blocks with jet plate should be inletting so the water is pushed down through the jet plate into the fins vs the Corsair and Hydro Copper blocks where it just passes through the fins from one side to another.


----------



## Section31

In regards to the issue present, Shawnb99 brought up an interesting solution. Send you card into Optimus and let them install the block for you. They did if for for him at no charge.


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> It definitely took me a lot of force/time to secure the torx screws on the coldplate. Also did same thing as chibi and scratched up the screw area.
> 
> Good to know though i ain’t doing any more maintenance on the block.
> 
> Officially on break from hardware upgrades and watercooling till 2024/2025 at this point. Just watercooling maintenance only. Moved portion of the normal funds into keyboard instead. Still working on caselabs custom parts upgrades.


Ehh keyboards now are a joke too IMO. Seems like every board now is just a replica of something else and same with keycaps. GMK caps good luck getting anything in the next few years unless you find extras or paying more for some one that changed their minds. Ive got 5-6 boards sitting on my shelf waiting to be built but I cant do anything until keycaps show up. Ive also lost alot of interest in the keyboard community. Used to be such a tight knit community but it seems as it got bigger it drew the crowd of people wanting attention and you get people posting the exact same setups over and over but different lighting. I miss when runs were limited to 50 boards.


----------



## bearsdidit

Section31 said:


> In regards to the issue present, Shawnb99 brought up an interesting solution. Send you card into Optimus and let them install the block for you. They did if for for him at no charge.


If I knew this was an option, I would have probably waited for the KPE rather than going with a Strix.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Ehh keyboards now are a joke too IMO. Seems like every board now is just a replica of something else and same with keycaps. GMK caps good luck getting anything in the next few years unless you find extras or paying more for some one that changed their minds. Ive got 5-6 boards sitting on my shelf waiting to be built but I cant do anything until keycaps show up. Ive also lost alot of interest in the keyboard community. Used to be such a tight knit community but it seems as it got bigger it drew the crowd of people wanting attention and you get people posting the exact same setups over and over but different lighting. I miss when runs were limited to 50 boards.


Just good to take an break from the PC building hobby to be honest thats my take. Short term hobby for me, will be out by end of year and i have achieved my goal of replacing the awful sounding Topre RGB (too big) and the Topre R2 PFU (it's starting to act up as some keys double clicking or not responding instantly). I also used to buy 1-2 prebuilt board every year usually the ducky year of the xxx just to take the special keycaps. Then give the boards to friend/colleagues. Just gave away one of my custom boards to come (kyuu65 r2.1) to my close friend as gift. So i spend more but not like i wasn't spending cheap on keyboards before lol - Topre/Ducky Year of the XXX aren't cheap stuff and even there dblshot pbt keycaps sets cost me 100cad to bring into canada. 

Regarding keycaps, I was always in but i never buy GMK keycaps in bulk because my hands are more oily, so any abs due to shining. Even single shotpbt will shine eventually. I prefer doubleshot pbt and up to now, very few make it. Though that number is starting to grow. I only joined two gmk, one kat, one kam (all awful delays) but have been dipping into the new guys on the scene (mw, osume, teapbt, akko) with much shorter wait times(0-6months). Much cheaper too and i kind of like the higher profile now.

Fair on the keyboards. The sneaker flippers caught onto the hobby and realized it was next best profitable thing. Most people sell there excess now anyways. Lot of silly buyers paying costs or above for this stuff. There was guy who bought an Mr.Suit R2 Black Chroma for 1300USD over the weekend (nuts for an board that costs 400USD and resells normally at 500-700USD). Still better than this hobby where recovery value sucks except for certain components. Recovery for Optimus products on the second hand market are plan ugly. Your lucky if you can get 50% recovery, i usually get 30% recovery or less unless the item is hot.

Most people here will upgrade to the latest and greatest but after doing it for so many years, i am going back towards upgrading over longer period of time vs every generation. So every other generation for GPU and then every 2 generations for CPU. Do incremental upgrades for like storage whenever higher storage and faster storage comes out at say the prices of current affordable drives (so like 1TB nvme).

I find the enjoy the aesthetic/design side vs the hardware. I barely can find time to play the computer myself and its only going to get more busy for me. Raising an kid will occupy most of my time.


----------



## Section31

bearsdidit said:


> If I knew this was an option, I would have probably waited for the KPE rather than going with a Strix.


Keep in mind for next time. To be honest, i thought about selling my optimus stuff recently too. Time to cash out on the PC side while its still near full recovery on certain items. Just keep the caselabs and continue working on modernizing it. Go to Ryzen 6000 Laptop + PS5 in meantime.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Thanks guys!

As for the sleeving, it is indeed MDPC-X's Liquid Carbon for the sleeving going into the CPU block, and then normal Black color sleeve for the GPU tube sleeving.

Also, Liquidboy? Cool if I call you ForestWhitakersBadEye? lol I'll post some more pics later today or tomorrow.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

LiquidHaus said:


> Thanks guys!
> 
> As for the sleeving, it is indeed MDPC-X's Liquid Carbon for the sleeving going into the CPU block, and then normal Black color sleeve for the GPU tube sleeving.
> 
> Also, Liquidboy? Cool if I call you ForestWhitakersBadEye? lol I'll post some more pics later today or tomorrow.



Hmmm yes,you can call me ForestWhitakersBadEye I’ll just have to change profile pic to the other 👁…😂


----------



## yaohanzex

Today I followed the instruction to install my KPE block. Apart from aligning screw holes for terminal, the whole process is fairly straightforward. Don’t be intimidated by the installation, the updated instruction is way better the first draft. Just remember to align the screw holes for terminal on front block and backplate before installing any screws on the backplate, and you will be fine.


----------



## KedarWolf

Optimus support answered my support ticket within a few days saying it should be a few weeks until my Strix block ships.

Here's hoping.


----------



## iamjanco

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Hmmm yes,you can call me ForestWhitakersBadEye I’ll just have to change profile pic to the other 👁…😂


How 'bout ForestWhitakersBorkedEye? Or maybe ForestWhitakersFUBAREye?


----------



## KedarWolf

iamjanco said:


> How 'bout ForestWhitakersBorkedEye? Or maybe ForestWhitakersFUBAREye?


ForestWhitakersISpyInYourLittleEye?


----------



## KedarWolf

My video card is mounted vertically, my motherboard below it horizontally.

Would I be wise to use my own GELID Extreme thermal pads instead of the Fuji ones to stop oil from bleeding all over my motherboard?
I'm pretty sure I have enough pads to do the entire waterblock and backplate. And I'm pretty sure I have a hole punch for the screw holes for the backplate pads. If not, I'd just buy one.

I sell my old motherboards locally when I upgrade.

Edit: I'd have to buy a bunch of 3mm pads for the backplate, I only have 2mm. :/


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

KedarWolf said:


> My video card is mounted vertically, my motherboard below it horizontally.
> 
> Would I be wise to use my own GELID Extreme thermal pads instead of the Fuji ones to stop oil from bleeding all over my motherboard?
> I'm pretty sure I have enough pads to do the entire waterblock and backplate. And I'm pretty sure I have a hole punch for the screw holes for the backplate pads. If not, I'd just buy one.
> 
> I sell my old motherboards locally when I upgrade.
> 
> Edit: I'd have to buy a bunch of 3mm pads for the backplate, I only have 2mm. :/



You don’t need to because on the Strix 3090 it isn’t bleeding around. Well atleast in my case and it’s on the 1000W KPE BIOS plus running at 110+ core and 1525+ mem overclock. I game 99% of the time so that’s why it’s always on OC and after what now 5-6 months I haven’t noticed anything.

But I love your optimism “OPTIMUS answered my email it’ll ship in a few weeks” I will pray tonight for you 😂,you need as much of that as possible!

OPTIMUS LANGUAGE

1 Day = Weeks
1 Week = Months
1 Month = Years
1 Year = Not in this life time



Also you guys can call me whatever you want just that I need a proper profile pic for it! I’m not going to fake anything here,it has to be REAL. 

YuelBeast coming out this upcoming Monday,saw it on insta…might grab one! Till now I loved every build who posted his in it (god my English sucks but still better then Section’s)


----------



## KedarWolf

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> You don’t need to because on the Strix 3090 it isn’t bleeding around. Well atleast in my case and it’s on the 1000W KPE BIOS plus running at 110+ core and 1525+ mem overclock. I game 99% of the time so that’s why it’s always on OC and after what now 5-6 months I haven’t noticed anything.
> 
> But I love your optimism “OPTIMUS answered my email it’ll ship in a few weeks” I will pray tonight for you 😂,you need as much of that as possible!
> 
> OPTIMUS LANGUAGE
> 
> 1 Day = Weeks
> 1 Week = Months
> 1 Month = Years
> 1 Year = Not in this life time
> 
> Is your card mounted vertical? I read is a problem of Also you guys can call me whatever you want just that I need a proper profile pic for it! I’m not going to fake anything here,it has to be REAL.
> 
> YuelBeast coming out this upcoming Monday,saw it on insta…might grab one! Till now I loved every build who posted his in it (god my English sucks but still better then Section’s)


Is your card mounted vertical? I read is a problem if it is.


----------



## dwolvin

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> ...
> YuelBeast coming out this upcoming Monday,saw it on insta…might grab one! Till now I loved every build who posted his in it (god my English sucks but still better then Section’s)


Is YB dropping a new case? Or just more Atlas II's?


----------



## LiquidHaus

dwolvin said:


> Is YB dropping a new case? Or just more Atlas II's?


It's more of the Atlas II chassis, however it's with some updates and changes that I worked with them on. The changes are small but will help a lot with potentials for changing up your build. Also collab'd with Bill over at MNPCtech so you could head over to his site and purchase some of his really nice case feet designed for use with the Atlas II as well!

Also, @ForestWhitakersGoodEye - here's some full body shots


----------



## chibi

Let's see the backside of that! Curious where you put the pump(s) and PSU.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

KedarWolf said:


> Is your card mounted vertical? I read is a problem if it is.
> [/QUOTE













@LiquidHaus 

That case really is beautiful,if they made enough and I can grab one I’m going to do a hard tube build! 
Everything like now just hard tubes and I’ll need a extra res or two but I’d have to spend money on OPTIMUS again and that’s a bit you know…if you know my opinion about them you know what I’m talking about.
Plus hard tubes would be somewhat a pain in the ass but it’s def manageable,thinking it would look fantastic


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> It's more of the Atlas II chassis, however it's with some updates and changes that I worked with them on. The changes are small but will help a lot with potentials for changing up your build. Also collab'd with Bill over at MNPCtech so you could head over to his site and purchase some of his really nice case feet designed for use with the Atlas II as well!
> 
> Also, @ForestWhitakersGoodEye - here's some full body shots


Hope more stuff coming. We need more cases that are designed for our needs. Unfortunate Lianli V3000+ got ruined. Also good reason to sell an caselabs lol


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> Hope more stuff coming. We need more cases that are designed for our needs. Unfortunate Lianli V3000+ got ruined. Also good reason to sell an caselabs lol


If there was another case worthy of moving my build into I would because im tired of my SMA8. Had it so long with no change or improvements. I may end up moving my computer into a rack mount case but then the problem comes with cooling. I suppose I could always do quick disconnects and do a MORA or too but no idea at this point.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> If there was another case worthy of moving my build into I would because im tired of my SMA8. Had it so long with no change or improvements. I may end up moving my computer into a rack mount case but then the problem comes with cooling. I suppose I could always do quick disconnects and do a MORA or too but no idea at this point.


We all are just waiting for the next thing. The good thing is our wallets are safe. I think its good time to sell off caselabs cases with the current ridiculous prices out there.

Ever feel like your reaching the end of the hobby though? Thats feeling i’ve been getting lately.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Section31 said:


> Ever feel like your reaching the end of the hobby though? Thats feeling i’ve been getting lately.



- Sunday 27.02.2022 - (Day to remember)
This! This is the smartest thing I’ve ever seen you write…

As time progresses idk if it’s because I’m getting older or something but I’m losing complete interest in building PC’s. It’s just to much hustle waiting around for parts,then add in the factor you have to let them make a donkey out of you and pay the scalper prices. Manufactured bs shortages so they can push higher prices…just waaaaaay to much hustle for something I don’t really need. If gaming was good as back in the days then ok,but now with these half assed pre BETA releases it just not worth spending the money or hustling around.
You have the money but literally can’t get anything in a reasonable time,I’m not in the mood paying $1000 over msrp or having to wait 8months+ for anything,Eff that

Example Lian-Li
Was really excited for the new V3000+ Case,after moving the release date you get a garbage case not even 50% of the original? So now what’s the next thing I can excite myself about? Even OPTIMUS told me in an email back in July how they’re making the 16mm hard tube fittings and should be out around end of August latest September. Here we are last days of February 2022 not a single word about anything anymore,how hard can it really be to make 16mm hard tube fittings? Mehhhh everything’s ****


----------



## Biggu

whats shocking is the radio silence from Optimus. 

as far as cases, so many people complain about GPU sag. With my SMA8 ive never had GPU sag even with the heavy Optimus block and backplate.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> whats shocking is the radio silence from Optimus.
> 
> as far as cases, so many people complain about GPU sag. With my SMA8 ive never had GPU sag even with the heavy Optimus block and backplate.


It is concerning. Hopefully they get back to us soon


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> - Sunday 27.02.2022 - (Day to remember)
> This! This is the smartest thing I’ve ever seen you write…
> 
> As time progresses idk if it’s because I’m getting older or something but I’m losing complete interest in building PC’s. It’s just to much hustle waiting around for parts,then add in the factor you have to let them make a donkey out of you and pay the scalper prices. Manufactured bs shortages so they can push higher prices…just waaaaaay to much hustle for something I don’t really need. If gaming was good as back in the days then ok,but now with these half assed pre BETA releases it just not worth spending the money or hustling around.
> You have the money but literally can’t get anything in a reasonable time,I’m not in the mood paying $1000 over msrp or having to wait 8months+ for anything,Eff that
> 
> Example Lian-Li
> Was really excited for the new V3000+ Case,after moving the release date you get a garbage case not even 50% of the original? So now what’s the next thing I can excite myself about? Even OPTIMUS told me in an email back in July how they’re making the 16mm hard tube fittings and should be out around end of August latest September. Here we are last days of February 2022 not a single word about anything anymore,how hard can it really be to make 16mm hard tube fittings? Mehhhh everything’s ****


Thanks but i’m more patient than you guys thats all. Optimus situation is concerning don’t get me wrong but i guess be glad we have working rigs. If there’s delays in product releases, we aren’t stuck in limbo mode. Got to believe things will get better for everyone soon.

The ultimate exit is just list your rig online at high price since you put all that work into building it. Don’t part out. If any of us got such an offer, i think it would be difficult not to say no to it.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Biggu said:


> whats shocking is the radio silence from Optimus.
> 
> as far as cases, so many people complain about GPU sag. With my SMA8 ive never had GPU sag even with the heavy Optimus block and backplate.


Something’s really off/fishy with OPTIMUS…either they don’t have enough customers to be interested in producing or whatever it is it’s off. No company in this world behaves like OPTIMUS,none! 
If you as a company want to build for the future this is not the way to do it. Many here are already 50/50 if they’ll buy again,out of this Forum/thread how many are willing to spend the money plus add shipping. OPTIMUS needs to have the best CS from any company,you can’t charge these amounts and brag how you’re the best but behind that nothing is working. One thing is your results but then again even with OPTIMUS the last release (KPE) from 10 people 7-8 had some kind of issue. 
So whatever it is it’s not adding up. If I pay you $600+ for a waterblock I want someone to answer my email in 2-3 days max,there’s no weeks or we’re working to get more people to answer and everytime we’re being lied to.
What is this bs not showing up for what 2 months now?

I get it some have more patience some none (me),but even if you have patience you shouldn’t support this crap they’re doing. 
So what’s their next step? Going silent for 1 year but when a new product comes out they’ll just pop in here again like they never left,you’ll spend money on them and in 2 weeks they’re out again.


----------



## bearsdidit

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Something’s really off/fishy with OPTIMUS…either they don’t have enough customers to be interested in producing or whatever it is it’s off. No company in this world behaves like OPTIMUS,none!
> If you as a company want to build for the future this is not the way to do it. Many here are already 50/50 if they’ll buy again,out of this Forum/thread how many are willing to spend the money plus add shipping. OPTIMUS needs to have the best CS from any company,you can’t charge these amounts and brag how you’re the best but behind that nothing is working. One thing is your results but then again even with OPTIMUS the last release (KPE) from 10 people 7-8 had some kind of issue.
> So whatever it is it’s not adding up. If I pay you $600+ for a waterblock I want someone to answer my email in 2-3 days max,there’s no weeks or we’re working to get more people to answer and everytime we’re being lied to.
> What is this bs not showing up for what 2 months now?
> 
> I get it some have more patience some none (me),but even if you have patience you shouldn’t support this crap they’re doing.
> So what’s their next step? Going silent for 1 year but when a new product comes out they’ll just pop in here again like they never left,you’ll spend money on them and in 2 weeks they’re out again.


IMO, it’s cash related issues. They probably don’t have the capital to invest in inventory and process optimization. As a result, they are operating by the seat of their pants which is prone to error, delays, and lower margins. 

This is not uncommon with smaller business and a huge reason why so many fail.


----------



## D-EJ915

bearsdidit said:


> IMO, it’s cash related issues. They probably don’t have the capital to invest in inventory and process optimization. As a result, they are operating by the seat of their pants which is prone to error, delays, and lower margins.
> 
> This is not uncommon with smaller business and a huge reason why so many fail.


It definitely seems this way which is why everything is paid upfront with no deposit.


----------



## LiquidHaus

chibi said:


> Let's see the backside of that! Curious where you put the pump(s) and PSU.


I haven't taken an updated pic of the rear, but this is what it looked like prior to adding the third D5 near the top:












ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> @LiquidHaus
> 
> That case really is beautiful,if they made enough and I can grab one I’m going to do a hard tube build!


They'll be available for purchase tomorrow! So make sure to head over to Yuel Beast Designs and lock in an Atlas II !


----------



## iamjanco

Heads up, it's live early. I'm one of their Discord subscribers, but I'm not sure their web store can tell the difference.


----------



## bearsdidit

iamjanco said:


> Heads up, it's live early. I'm one of their Discord subscribers, but I'm not sure their web store can tell the difference.
> View attachment 2550343
> 
> 
> View attachment 2550342


I ordered one as well but did not get the vertical mount. Doesn’t the stock configuration allow for one?


----------



## LiquidHaus

bearsdidit said:


> I ordered one as well but did not get the vertical mount. Doesn’t the stock configuration allow for one?


No, the stock configuration does not. Not in the traditional sense. Send them an email and I'm sure they can edit the order!


----------



## bearsdidit

LiquidHaus said:


> No, the stock configuration does not. Not in the traditional sense. Send them an email and I'm sure they can edit the order!


Thanks for the heads up and I’ll shoot them a follow up note. 

Big fan of your work!


----------



## GLuE

Edit


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> I haven't taken an updated pic of the rear, but this is what it looked like prior to adding the third D5 near the top:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They'll be available for purchase tomorrow! So make sure to head over to Yuel Beast Designs and lock in an Atlas II !


I wish they made one with doors not open. This brand has potential and I would pay for there stuff if i'm still in the hobby at that time.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Section31 said:


> I wish they made one with doors not open. This brand has potential and I would pay for there stuff if i'm still in the hobby at that time.


They'll never do a traditional case with doors. Then they'd be like everyone else, and being different is exactly what this industry needs. Look how many cases came out after the 011 that pretty much copied everything about it. I hate seeing the same stuff over and over.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> They'll never do a traditional case with doors. Then they'd be like everyone else, and being different is exactly what this industry needs. Look how many cases came out after the 011 that pretty much copied everything about it. I hate seeing the same stuff over and over.


I am definitely keeping an eye on them. I like there cases but just missing something for me to get


----------



## dwolvin

Seconded. I hope they go for something more compact. I wedged a pair of 420's in a P3, and it's not perfect but I can't see going back to a large case.


----------



## superguest

Biggu said:


> because im tired of my SMA8.


That's a terrible terrible thing to say.


----------



## Biggu

superguest said:


> That's a terrible terrible thing to say.


How so? Ive had the case since early 2015 and basically look at it every single day with no change even after upgrades. Its lost the joy it used to have when I could modify however I wanted because parts were plentiful.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> How so? Ive had the case since early 2015 and basically look at it every single day with no change even after upgrades. Its lost the joy it used to have when I could modify however I wanted because parts were plentiful.


Fair point. The good thing is if you ever choice to sell it its worth a lot more than you paid for it.

Your current case you built is really nice. Custom is way many of us may eventually go too.


----------



## arvinz

Howdy,

Long time observer of this thread, I don't post much but I read and learn as much as I can. Veteran builder but first time watercooling.

I don't like to settle. As a designer, I can't accept something not looking straight (measure 10 times, cut once), or being told you can only do something one way (case in the point the Lian-li vertical gpu mount). And as a gamer, I've always tried to stay on-top of the tech so for the most part I always have the latest and greatest. (I try anyway).

While the build is only a month old, the parts I've had for a long time. Just to give you some perspective, I received the Strix block (original nickel one) back in July 2021 and that was, technically, the last part I needed. The GPU/CPU/RAM/mobo and and most of the watercooling components (Aquacomputer, fans, fittings, etc) I've had for well over a year. Example, Strix 3090 I got back in Dec 2020 from Best Buy!










Actually, the only other component I didn't buy until about a couple months ago was the 011D-XL..I was kinda holding out to see if an EVO version would come out, but then said screw it, what's the point? I won't ever invert the PC as it wouldn't work with the current plan with the distro and just too much hassle.

Wanted to show some progress pics. You don't see too many posts with the Strix block so figured I'd post something to keep the thread on topic  I swapped out the Nickel for the matte black cerakote with black gasket. (Had some issues with this, I posted about this earlier).

I know it's another 011D-XL case, trust me, I've researched these to death and I know how common they are; but it has the right look for me and fits perfectly on my desk.

There's LOT's of progress pics I took prior to these, but only today after I got the Strix block on there did I notice it coming together.

Because the block is so heavy as others have reported, I was getting quite a bit of sag but I came up with a clever way to prop it up. Since the vertical mount sits so close to the fans underneath, I sourced some spacers and longer screws to drive the fans into the radiator in that spot, essentially eliminating the sag.

Took a few tries and a few different spacer configurations but finally got it centered. I also had to hack the vertical gpu mount to allow the gpu to fit into that spot...for some reason with this Lian-li mount, a 2-slot gpu can only be fitted into the 1, 2 or 4 position..but I needed it in the 3rd lol. I got some metal filer and hacked away to allow the IO shield of the gpu to fit.

Ignore the fitting on the left port on the gpu block. I'm actually measuring the run from the front to the distro plate as it's easier, and then I'm going to reduce the tube distance after so it fits into the backside of the left port.

Still lots of work left to do:

• Have to create the gpu to distro runs (includes adding a High Flow Next)
• Do another quick test boot to bios, dry, without pump to make sure I got signal
• Paint all the tubes satin black
• EK leak tester (a day or two..I have previuosly individually leak tested every component)
• Check all connections (make sure everything is straight and aligned)
• Add liquid (doing clear...distill + Mayhem's XT-1 Nuke 2)
• Hit the power button and pray everything works properly
• Move onto software..


Here's how I dealt with the sag:










Where I'm at so far:





































Specs if you're interested:

*MAIN HARDWARE*

*Case*: Lian-li O11D XL-X (Black)
*CPU*: AMD 5950X
*Mobo*: Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero
*Ram*: Crucial Ballistix MAX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-4400 CL19
*GPU*: Asus Geforce RTX Strix 3090 OC 24GB
*Vertical GPU Bracket*: Lian-li O11DXL-1 Kit
*Riser Cable*: Linkup Ultra PCIe 4.0 X 16 (20cm right-angle)
*Custom Cables*: www.mbcustomsleeving.com - MDPC-X Carbon BTI
*Power Supply*: Corsair AX1600i
*Storage*: (OS) Sabrent Rocket 4 Plus 2TB NVME / (Games) Sabrent Rocket 4 Plus 4TB NVME
*Fans*: (2) Lian-li UNI SL120 x 3-pack (Black) / (1) Lian-li UNI SL120 x 1-pack (Black)
*Fan PWN Control*: Aquacomputer OCTO via Aquasuite
*Fan RGB Control*: Lian-li UNI controller via L-Connect
*Accessories*: NZXT Internal USB Hub 3 (extra USB 2.0 headers)
*Fan Metal Logo Covers*: https://amzn.to/3sA2zfv

*WATERCOOLING COMPONENTS*

*Pump*: Aquacomputer D5 NEXT RGB
*Flow Indicator*: Aquacomputer High Flow NEXT
*Distro Plate*: WVMech Dynamic XL D5 Side M2
*CPU Block*: Optimus AM4 Foundation Block (Black acetal top + matte black bracket)
*GPU Block*: Optimus Strix 3090 Block (Matte black cerakote + black gasket)
*Radiators*: (Top) HWLABs Nemesis 360GTS / (Bottom) HWLabs Nemesis 360GTX
*Liquid*: Pure Distilled Water + Mayhems XT-1 Nuke V2 Concentrate (Clear)
*Tubing*: Bitspower pre-bent 90-degree brass hard tubing OD14MM
*Tube Paint*: SEM Trim Black Ultra - Satin
*Leak Testing*: EK Tester
*Fittings*: Bitspower Black Sparkle (offset, 45-degree, 90-degree, advanced multi-link, etc)


----------



## yaohanzex

arvinz said:


> Howdy,
> 
> Long time observer of this thread, I don't post much but I read and learn as much as I can. Veteran builder but first time watercooling.
> 
> I don't like to settle. As a designer, I can't accept something not looking straight (measure 10 times, cut once), or being told you can only do something one way (case in the point the Lian-li vertical gpu mount). And as a gamer, I've always tried to stay on-top of the tech so for the most part I always have the latest and greatest. (I try anyway).
> 
> While the build is only a month old, the parts I've had for a long time. Just to give you some perspective, I received the Strix block (original nickel one) back in July 2021 and that was, technically, the last part I needed. The GPU/CPU/RAM/mobo and and most of the watercooling components (Aquacomputer, fans, fittings, etc) I've had for well over a year. Example, Strix 3090 I got back in Dec 2020 from Best Buy!
> 
> View attachment 2550485
> 
> 
> Actually, the only other component I didn't buy until about a couple months ago was the 011D-XL..I was kinda holding out to see if an EVO version would come out, but then said screw it, what's the point? I won't ever invert the PC as it wouldn't work with the current plan with the distro and just too much hassle.
> 
> Wanted to show some progress pics. You don't see too many posts with the Strix block so figured I'd post something to keep the thread on topic  I swapped out the Nickel for the matte black cerakote with black gasket. (Had some issues with this, I posted about this earlier).
> 
> I know it's another 011D-XL case, trust me, I've researched these to death and I know how common they are; but it has the right look for me and fits perfectly on my desk.
> 
> There's LOT's of progress pics I took prior to these, but only today after I got the Strix block on there did I notice it coming together.
> 
> Because the block is so heavy as others have reported, I was getting quite a bit of sag but I came up with a clever way to prop it up. Since the vertical mount sits so close to the fans underneath, I sourced some spacers and longer screws to drive the fans into the radiator in that spot, essentially eliminating the sag.
> 
> Took a few tries and a few different spacer configurations but finally got it centered. I also had to hack the vertical gpu mount to allow the gpu to fit into that spot...for some reason with this Lian-li mount, a 2-slot gpu can only be fitted into the 1, 2 or 4 position..but I needed it in the 3rd lol. I got some metal filer and hacked away to allow the IO shield of the gpu to fit.
> 
> Ignore the fitting on the left port on the gpu block. I'm actually measuring the run from the front to the distro plate as it's easier, and then I'm going to reduce the tube distance after so it fits into the backside of the left port.
> 
> Still lots of work left to do:
> 
> • Have to create the gpu to distro runs (includes adding a High Flow Next)
> • Do another quick test boot to bios, dry, without pump to make sure I got signal
> • Paint all the tubes satin black
> • EK leak tester (a day or two..I have previuosly individually leak tested every component)
> • Check all connections (make sure everything is straight and aligned)
> • Add liquid (doing clear...distill + Mayhem's XT-1 Nuke 2)
> • Hit the power button and pray everything works properly
> • Move onto software..
> 
> 
> Here's how I dealt with the sag:
> View attachment 2550488
> 
> 
> 
> Where I'm at so far:
> View attachment 2550489
> 
> 
> View attachment 2550490
> 
> 
> View attachment 2550491
> 
> 
> View attachment 2550492


Nice build. I don't understand the hate on O11 series case. A popular series of cases like o11 is what keeps water cooling alive nowadays. Just look at how many enthusiast brands went out of business or struggled to develop new products over the years.


----------



## bearsdidit

arvinz said:


> Howdy,
> 
> Long time observer of this thread, I don't post much but I read and learn as much as I can. Veteran builder but first time watercooling.
> 
> I don't like to settle. As a designer, I can't accept something not looking straight (measure 10 times, cut once), or being told you can only do something one way (case in the point the Lian-li vertical gpu mount). And as a gamer, I've always tried to stay on-top of the tech so for the most part I always have the latest and greatest. (I try anyway).
> 
> While the build is only a month old, the parts I've had for a long time. Just to give you some perspective, I received the Strix block (original nickel one) back in July 2021 and that was, technically, the last part I needed. The GPU/CPU/RAM/mobo and and most of the watercooling components (Aquacomputer, fans, fittings, etc) I've had for well over a year. Example, Strix 3090 I got back in Dec 2020 from Best Buy!
> 
> View attachment 2550485
> 
> 
> Actually, the only other component I didn't buy until about a couple months ago was the 011D-XL..I was kinda holding out to see if an EVO version would come out, but then said screw it, what's the point? I won't ever invert the PC as it wouldn't work with the current plan with the distro and just too much hassle.
> 
> Wanted to show some progress pics. You don't see too many posts with the Strix block so figured I'd post something to keep the thread on topic  I swapped out the Nickel for the matte black cerakote with black gasket. (Had some issues with this, I posted about this earlier).
> 
> I know it's another 011D-XL case, trust me, I've researched these to death and I know how common they are; but it has the right look for me and fits perfectly on my desk.
> 
> There's LOT's of progress pics I took prior to these, but only today after I got the Strix block on there did I notice it coming together.
> 
> Because the block is so heavy as others have reported, I was getting quite a bit of sag but I came up with a clever way to prop it up. Since the vertical mount sits so close to the fans underneath, I sourced some spacers and longer screws to drive the fans into the radiator in that spot, essentially eliminating the sag.
> 
> Took a few tries and a few different spacer configurations but finally got it centered. I also had to hack the vertical gpu mount to allow the gpu to fit into that spot...for some reason with this Lian-li mount, a 2-slot gpu can only be fitted into the 1, 2 or 4 position..but I needed it in the 3rd lol. I got some metal filer and hacked away to allow the IO shield of the gpu to fit.
> 
> Ignore the fitting on the left port on the gpu block. I'm actually measuring the run from the front to the distro plate as it's easier, and then I'm going to reduce the tube distance after so it fits into the backside of the left port.
> 
> Still lots of work left to do:
> 
> • Have to create the gpu to distro runs (includes adding a High Flow Next)
> • Do another quick test boot to bios, dry, without pump to make sure I got signal
> • Paint all the tubes satin black
> • EK leak tester (a day or two..I have previuosly individually leak tested every component)
> • Check all connections (make sure everything is straight and aligned)
> • Add liquid (doing clear...distill + Mayhem's XT-1 Nuke 2)
> • Hit the power button and pray everything works properly
> • Move onto software..
> 
> 
> Here's how I dealt with the sag:
> View attachment 2550488
> 
> 
> 
> Where I'm at so far:
> View attachment 2550489
> 
> 
> View attachment 2550490
> 
> 
> View attachment 2550491
> 
> 
> View attachment 2550492
> 
> 
> 
> Specs if you're interested:
> 
> *MAIN HARDWARE*
> 
> *Case*: Lian-li O11D XL-X (Black)
> *CPU*: AMD 5950X
> *Mobo*: Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero
> *Ram*: Crucial Ballistix MAX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-4400 CL19
> *GPU*: Asus Geforce RTX Strix 3090 OC 24GB
> *Vertical GPU Bracket*: Lian-li O11DXL-1 Kit
> *Riser Cable*: Linkup Ultra PCIe 4.0 X 16 (20cm right-angle)
> *Custom Cables*: www.mbcustomsleeving.com - MDPC-X Carbon BTI
> *Power Supply*: Corsair AX1600i
> *Storage*: (OS) Sabrent Rocket 4 Plus 2TB NVME / (Games) Sabrent Rocket 4 Plus 4TB NVME
> *Fans*: (2) Lian-li UNI SL120 x 3-pack (Black) / (1) Lian-li UNI SL120 x 1-pack (Black)
> *Fan PWN Control*: Aquacomputer OCTO via Aquasuite
> *Fan RGB Control*: Lian-li UNI controller via L-Connect
> *Accessories*: NZXT Internal USB Hub 3 (extra USB 2.0 headers)
> *Fan Metal Logo Covers*: https://amzn.to/3sA2zfv
> 
> *WATERCOOLING COMPONENTS*
> 
> *Pump*: Aquacomputer D5 NEXT RGB
> *Flow Indicator*: Aquacomputer High Flow NEXT
> *Distro Plate*: WVMech Dynamic XL D5 Side M2
> *CPU Block*: Optimus AM4 Foundation Block (Black acetal top + matte black bracket)
> *GPU Block*: Optimus Strix 3090 Block (Matte black cerakote + black gasket)
> *Radiators*: (Top) HWLABs Nemesis 360GTS / (Bottom) HWLabs Nemesis 360GTX
> *Liquid*: Pure Distilled Water + Mayhems XT-1 Nuke V2 Concentrate (Clear)
> *Tubing*: Bitspower pre-bent 90-degree brass hard tubing OD14MM
> *Tube Paint*: SEM Trim Black Ultra - Satin
> *Leak Testing*: EK Tester
> *Fittings*: Bitspower Black Sparkle (offset, 45-degree, 90-degree, advanced multi-link, etc)


Beautiful build and great choice in Wera wrenches.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

That’s a beautiful build! Man I now wish optimus would’ve had the black cerakote Strix back when I got mine,looks awesome in all black. Also initially I wanted silver tubes like yours but eventually went with matte black,one of the better builds I’ve seen here regarding my taste


EDIT : Nevermind saw that you’ll paint the tubes satin black. Are you going to spray paint them or what was your idea there?


----------



## bearsdidit

yaohanzex said:


> Nice build. I don't understand the hate on O11 series case. A popular series of cases like o11 is what keeps water cooling alive nowadays. Just look at how many enthusiast brands went out of business or struggled to develop new products over the years.


It’s ironic to me since I just finished my O11 a few months ago. When researching my first WC build, the O11 made so much sense due to the aftermarket availability and I obsessed over the planning stage for months. Within a month of completion, I got bored of the case and started planning out v2 and ended up ordering an Atlas yesterday. In addition, I also upgraded my cpu, mobo, ram, and added a Mo-Ra. This hobby is literally insane.


----------



## arvinz

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> That’s a beautiful build! Man I now wish optimus would’ve had the black cerakote Strix back when I got mine,looks awesome in all black. Also initially I wanted silver tubes like yours but eventually went with matte black,one of the better builds I’ve seen here regarding my taste
> 
> 
> EDIT : Nevermind saw that you’ll paint the tubes satin black. Are you going to spray paint them or what was your idea there?


Thank you brotha! I love your build as well and nice to see a few more Canucks in this thread 

In terms of the tubes, yes, I'm spray painting them with this:









I thought about matte black at first, but then changed my mind as I think the satin might look a little bit better in my build. I think it'll work nicely with my Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings as well.


----------



## Section31

arvinz said:


> Howdy,
> 
> Long time observer of this thread, I don't post much but I read and learn as much as I can. Veteran builder but first time watercooling.
> 
> I don't like to settle. As a designer, I can't accept something not looking straight (measure 10 times, cut once), or being told you can only do something one way (case in the point the Lian-li vertical gpu mount). And as a gamer, I've always tried to stay on-top of the tech so for the most part I always have the latest and greatest. (I try anyway).
> 
> While the build is only a month old, the parts I've had for a long time. Just to give you some perspective, I received the Strix block (original nickel one) back in July 2021 and that was, technically, the last part I needed. The GPU/CPU/RAM/mobo and and most of the watercooling components (Aquacomputer, fans, fittings, etc) I've had for well over a year. Example, Strix 3090 I got back in Dec 2020 from Best Buy!
> 
> View attachment 2550485
> 
> 
> Actually, the only other component I didn't buy until about a couple months ago was the 011D-XL..I was kinda holding out to see if an EVO version would come out, but then said screw it, what's the point? I won't ever invert the PC as it wouldn't work with the current plan with the distro and just too much hassle.
> 
> Wanted to show some progress pics. You don't see too many posts with the Strix block so figured I'd post something to keep the thread on topic  I swapped out the Nickel for the matte black cerakote with black gasket. (Had some issues with this, I posted about this earlier).
> 
> I know it's another 011D-XL case, trust me, I've researched these to death and I know how common they are; but it has the right look for me and fits perfectly on my desk.
> 
> There's LOT's of progress pics I took prior to these, but only today after I got the Strix block on there did I notice it coming together.
> 
> Because the block is so heavy as others have reported, I was getting quite a bit of sag but I came up with a clever way to prop it up. Since the vertical mount sits so close to the fans underneath, I sourced some spacers and longer screws to drive the fans into the radiator in that spot, essentially eliminating the sag.
> 
> Took a few tries and a few different spacer configurations but finally got it centered. I also had to hack the vertical gpu mount to allow the gpu to fit into that spot...for some reason with this Lian-li mount, a 2-slot gpu can only be fitted into the 1, 2 or 4 position..but I needed it in the 3rd lol. I got some metal filer and hacked away to allow the IO shield of the gpu to fit.
> 
> Ignore the fitting on the left port on the gpu block. I'm actually measuring the run from the front to the distro plate as it's easier, and then I'm going to reduce the tube distance after so it fits into the backside of the left port.
> 
> Still lots of work left to do:
> 
> • Have to create the gpu to distro runs (includes adding a High Flow Next)
> • Do another quick test boot to bios, dry, without pump to make sure I got signal
> • Paint all the tubes satin black
> • EK leak tester (a day or two..I have previuosly individually leak tested every component)
> • Check all connections (make sure everything is straight and aligned)
> • Add liquid (doing clear...distill + Mayhem's XT-1 Nuke 2)
> • Hit the power button and pray everything works properly
> • Move onto software..
> 
> 
> Here's how I dealt with the sag:
> View attachment 2550488
> 
> 
> 
> Where I'm at so far:
> View attachment 2550489
> 
> 
> View attachment 2550490
> 
> 
> View attachment 2550491
> 
> 
> View attachment 2550492


This thread will always be offtopic just how much. Right now complain about optimus issues - fulfilling orders and customer service lol. 

Welcome but this thread though. This is top 10% so not too many lianli cases and not typical reddit watercooling users.


----------



## arvinz

bearsdidit said:


> Beautiful build and great choice in Wera wrenches.


Thank you  I'm also into sim racing so I bought a bunch of Wera stuff to work on the sim setup. They are expensive but I try to live by the motto: buy once, cry once. Hoping these will last me a lifetime.


----------



## Section31

bearsdidit said:


> It’s ironic to me since I just finished my O11 a few months ago. When researching my first WC build, the O11 made so much sense due to the aftermarket availability and I obsessed over the planning stage for months. Within a month of completion, I got bored of the case and started planning out v2 and ended up ordering an Atlas yesterday. In addition, I also upgraded my cpu, mobo, ram, and added a Mo-Ra. This hobby is literally insane.


I think its time for the new ppl to take over this thread tbh. Lot of the veterans here kind of left and are thinking about exiting the hobby - some of us have been here for more than 10years (10 years of water cooling).


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

arvinz said:


> Thank you brotha! I love your build as well and nice to see a few more Canucks in this thread
> 
> In terms of the tubes, yes, I'm spray painting them with this:
> View attachment 2550494
> 
> 
> I thought about matte black at first, but then changed my mind as I think the satin might look a little bit better in my build. I think it'll work nicely with my Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings as well.


Thank you fine sir 🙂

Please let me know how that spray paint works. I couldn’t find anything here proper in Canada (that’s maybe my lack of research) but bought the “KRYLON 1602 MATTE BLACK” from New York (Wasn’t available here in Canada at all). Wasn’t even that bad regarding price,bought 3 bottles plus shipping added up to $45. Tho 1.5 bottles would’ve been more then enough.
How are you going to prepare the brass tubes,sand them first or how does that work?


----------



## Section31

arvinz said:


> Thank you  I'm also into sim racing so I bought a bunch of Wera stuff to work on the sim setup. They are expensive but I try to live by the motto: buy once, cry once. Hoping these will last me a lifetime.


Try to avoid the pitfalls of watercooling, temptations to continue trying new brands and throwing money for small gains.

Thats what kills us watercoolers along with the aesthetics and crazy case budgets we have. Never ask how much we spent over lifespan on this hobby. It’s between 10-20K Cad on current version of our rigs for many not including hardware changes. Hence why some of the older ones are planning permanent or temporary exits from the hobby.


----------



## Section31

yaohanzex said:


> Nice build. I don't understand the hate on O11 series case. A popular series of cases like o11 is what keeps water cooling alive nowadays. Just look at how many enthusiast brands went out of business or struggled to develop new products over the years.


Its because an portion of the user base here in this thread is top 10%. Older group that uses custom built cases, heavily modded cases, super unique cases like yuel beasts and the remains of the caselabs group.

How many elsewhere will throw 1000usd at cases among things. Lianli and most mass market case manufacturers cut some corners we don’t like. Some of us really are in niche case categories so custom cases or super modded cases.


----------



## dwolvin

arvinz said:


> Thank you brotha! I love your build as well and nice to see a few more Canucks in this thread
> 
> In terms of the tubes, yes, I'm spray painting them with this:
> View attachment 2550494
> 
> 
> I thought about matte black at first, but then changed my mind as I think the satin might look a little bit better in my build. I think it'll work nicely with my Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings as well.


Honestly, I like the chrome tubes and fittings, it bridges the shiny plastic and matte frame well (imho).


----------



## Biggu

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Thank you fine sir 🙂
> 
> Please let me know how that spray paint works. I couldn’t find anything here proper in Canada (that’s maybe my lack of research) but bought the “KRYLON 1602 MATTE BLACK” from New York (Wasn’t available here in Canada at all). Wasn’t even that bad regarding price,bought 3 bottles plus shipping added up to $45. Tho 1.5 bottles would’ve been more then enough.
> How are you going to prepare the brass tubes,sand them first or how does that work?


SEM paint is the cream of the crop IMO and im sure it will work well if the tubes are properly prepped. Personally I really like that chrome tube look but hey each their own. 

I think the o11 hate is just due to the fact that its such a popular case. 



Section31 said:


> I think its time for the new ppl to take over this thread tbh. Lot of the veterans here kind of left and are thinking about exiting the hobby - some of us have been here for more than 10years (10 years of water cooling).


man got me thinkin back to the old days. Did my first loop in 2006 and have not done an aircooled build (other than a server) since then. Back in the day when Danger Den was around and kicking whoa boy.


----------



## criskoe

SEM paint is really good... Ive used a ton of it on custom car audio panels and trim pieces. It can hold up to wear and tear very well...


TBH. With proper surface prep, correct primer and patience, you can make even the cheapest rattle can paints look great...


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Honestly, I like the chrome tubes and fittings, it bridges the shiny plastic and matte frame well (imho).


Stainless steel material hopefully. I don’t think i will use brass tubing ever again. Fortunate i ended up changing to strix card instead and got an new block instead. Cleaning it was not fun (lot of scrubbing)


----------



## criskoe

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Thank you fine sir 🙂
> 
> Please let me know how that spray paint works. I couldn’t find anything here proper in Canada (that’s maybe my lack of research) but bought the “KRYLON 1602 MATTE BLACK” from New York (Wasn’t available here in Canada at all). Wasn’t even that bad regarding price,bought 3 bottles plus shipping added up to $45. Tho 1.5 bottles would’ve been more then enough.
> How are you going to prepare the brass tubes,sand them first or how does that work?


You can get awesome rattle can paints at most car parts shops... Some parts shops will even have a paint department that can mix and make any color you want in a spray can.. The skys the limit on the color options. Pearl, metal flake, Simple colors, what ever you want... They will also carry SEM paints as its a top company in the automotive scene. 2k paints options are awesome. Chemically hardens to provide a much better surface protection then standard rattle can paint.. Makes items much better at resisting wear and tear from handling and abuse..


----------



## arvinz

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Thank you fine sir 🙂
> 
> Please let me know how that spray paint works. I couldn’t find anything here proper in Canada (that’s maybe my lack of research) but bought the “KRYLON 1602 MATTE BLACK” from New York (Wasn’t available here in Canada at all). Wasn’t even that bad regarding price,bought 3 bottles plus shipping added up to $45. Tho 1.5 bottles would’ve been more then enough.
> How are you going to prepare the brass tubes,sand them first or how does that work?


As others have mentioned, SEM is up there in terms of spray aerosol quality. Did a lot of research and it came down to either SEM or the Rust-oleum Metallic line. Opted for SEM just because it's basically automotive OEM spec and I've done work with a lot of local auto shops and they swear by this.

I bought this can for $15 locally here: SEM TRIM BLACK ULTRA Satin Black

If you can find it where you are, then definitely go for it...I believe Jayz2cents also used SEM in one of his personal builds and loves it as well...the paint sits real even and smooth after it settles.

I'm going to do some trial runs with the paint on some spare tubes I got laying around just to see. I was also going to test the Rust-oleum paint I got just for fun:


----------



## iamjanco

arvinz said:


> Howdy,
> 
> Long time observer of this thread, I don't post much but I read and learn as much as I can. Veteran builder but first time watercooling.
> 
> I don't like to settle. As a designer, I can't accept something not looking straight (measure 10 times, cut once), or being told you can only do something one way (case in the point the Lian-li vertical gpu mount). And as a gamer, I've always tried to stay on-top of the tech so for the most part I always have the latest and greatest. (I try anyway).
> 
> While the build is only a month old, the parts I've had for a long time. Just to give you some perspective, I received the Strix block (original nickel one) back in July 2021 and that was, technically, the last part I needed. The GPU/CPU/RAM/mobo and and most of the watercooling components (Aquacomputer, fans, fittings, etc) I've had for well over a year. Example, Strix 3090 I got back in Dec 2020 from Best Buy!
> 
> View attachment 2550485
> 
> 
> Actually, the only other component I didn't buy until about a couple months ago was the 011D-XL..I was kinda holding out to see if an EVO version would come out, but then said screw it, what's the point? I won't ever invert the PC as it wouldn't work with the current plan with the distro and just too much hassle.
> 
> Wanted to show some progress pics. You don't see too many posts with the Strix block so figured I'd post something to keep the thread on topic  I swapped out the Nickel for the matte black cerakote with black gasket. (Had some issues with this, I posted about this earlier).
> 
> I know it's another 011D-XL case, trust me, I've researched these to death and I know how common they are; but it has the right look for me and fits perfectly on my desk.
> 
> There's LOT's of progress pics I took prior to these, but only today after I got the Strix block on there did I notice it coming together.
> 
> Because the block is so heavy as others have reported, I was getting quite a bit of sag but I came up with a clever way to prop it up. Since the vertical mount sits so close to the fans underneath, I sourced some spacers and longer screws to drive the fans into the radiator in that spot, essentially eliminating the sag.
> 
> Took a few tries and a few different spacer configurations but finally got it centered. I also had to hack the vertical gpu mount to allow the gpu to fit into that spot...for some reason with this Lian-li mount, a 2-slot gpu can only be fitted into the 1, 2 or 4 position..but I needed it in the 3rd lol. I got some metal filer and hacked away to allow the IO shield of the gpu to fit.
> 
> Ignore the fitting on the left port on the gpu block. I'm actually measuring the run from the front to the distro plate as it's easier, and then I'm going to reduce the tube distance after so it fits into the backside of the left port.
> 
> Still lots of work left to do:
> 
> • Have to create the gpu to distro runs (includes adding a High Flow Next)
> • Do another quick test boot to bios, dry, without pump to make sure I got signal
> • Paint all the tubes satin black
> • EK leak tester (a day or two..I have previuosly individually leak tested every component)
> • Check all connections (make sure everything is straight and aligned)
> • Add liquid (doing clear...distill + Mayhem's XT-1 Nuke 2)
> • Hit the power button and pray everything works properly
> • Move onto software..
> 
> 
> Here's how I dealt with the sag:
> View attachment 2550488
> 
> 
> 
> Where I'm at so far:
> View attachment 2550489
> 
> 
> View attachment 2550490
> 
> 
> View attachment 2550491
> 
> 
> View attachment 2550492
> 
> 
> 
> Specs if you're interested:
> 
> *MAIN HARDWARE*
> 
> *Case*: Lian-li O11D XL-X (Black)
> *CPU*: AMD 5950X
> *Mobo*: Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero
> *Ram*: Crucial Ballistix MAX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-4400 CL19
> *GPU*: Asus Geforce RTX Strix 3090 OC 24GB
> *Vertical GPU Bracket*: Lian-li O11DXL-1 Kit
> *Riser Cable*: Linkup Ultra PCIe 4.0 X 16 (20cm right-angle)
> *Custom Cables*: www.mbcustomsleeving.com - MDPC-X Carbon BTI
> *Power Supply*: Corsair AX1600i
> *Storage*: (OS) Sabrent Rocket 4 Plus 2TB NVME / (Games) Sabrent Rocket 4 Plus 4TB NVME
> *Fans*: (2) Lian-li UNI SL120 x 3-pack (Black) / (1) Lian-li UNI SL120 x 1-pack (Black)
> *Fan PWN Control*: Aquacomputer OCTO via Aquasuite
> *Fan RGB Control*: Lian-li UNI controller via L-Connect
> *Accessories*: NZXT Internal USB Hub 3 (extra USB 2.0 headers)
> *Fan Metal Logo Covers*: https://amzn.to/3sA2zfv
> 
> *WATERCOOLING COMPONENTS*
> 
> *Pump*: Aquacomputer D5 NEXT RGB
> *Flow Indicator*: Aquacomputer High Flow NEXT
> *Distro Plate*: WVMech Dynamic XL D5 Side M2
> *CPU Block*: Optimus AM4 Foundation Block (Black acetal top + matte black bracket)
> *GPU Block*: Optimus Strix 3090 Block (Matte black cerakote + black gasket)
> *Radiators*: (Top) HWLABs Nemesis 360GTS / (Bottom) HWLabs Nemesis 360GTX
> *Liquid*: Pure Distilled Water + Mayhems XT-1 Nuke V2 Concentrate (Clear)
> *Tubing*: Bitspower pre-bent 90-degree brass hard tubing OD14MM
> *Tube Paint*: SEM Trim Black Ultra - Satin
> *Leak Testing*: EK Tester
> *Fittings*: Bitspower Black Sparkle (offset, 45-degree, 90-degree, advanced multi-link, etc)


Magnum opus. 

Three thumbs up!


----------



## Section31

Though i am curious lifetime how many ppl have spent on watercooling over there life span. Over 10years, my bill breaks down to:

CPU Blocks - Probably around 2000Cad (went through a lot of blocks)
GPU Blocks - Probably around 1500Cad
Radiators - Probably around 3000Cad (went through many brands of rads including whole sale replacement of HWL rads)
Pumps - Around 1000-1500Cad (multiple D5 Next)
Fittings - Around 2500Cad (threw out lot of fittings in my lifespan)
Reservoir - Probably around 1500Cad.
Tubing, Solution - Around 1500Cad (most of it is buying Mayhem XTR 4nm and BP Brass Tubing)
Fans - 1500Cad (Went through multiple sets of fans)
Controllers/Extensions - Around 1000Cad
Tools - 800Cad
Custom PSU Cables - 2000cad (I have gone through One set of Cablemod, 5 Near Full Sets of MDPC-X in my life time up to now including sata/molex cables).


Maintenance runs i still need to do so that involves solution and new fittings/koolance qd4 (need to order) because of staining issues in my loop. Don't enter this hobby unless you are prepared to spend big.


----------



## ciarlatano

yaohanzex said:


> Nice build. I don't understand the hate on O11 series case. A popular series of cases like o11 is what keeps water cooling alive nowadays. Just look at how many enthusiast brands went out of business or struggled to develop new products over the years.





Section31 said:


> Its because an portion of the user base here in this thread is top 10%. Older group that uses custom built cases, heavily modded cases, super unique cases like yuel beasts and the remains of the caselabs group.
> 
> How many elsewhere will throw 1000usd at cases among things. Lianli and most mass market case manufacturers cut some corners we don’t like. Some of us really are in niche case categories so custom cases or super modded cases.


For me....I loved the look of the O11, and the build quality is good, but when I tried to build in it, it was a big disappointment. Seemingly obvious components don't fit, and the airflow always seems to be an issue. I don't hate them, and don't bash them, but I certainly wouldn't use one and don't like building in them. Aesthetically, they are great, so I understand the attraction.


----------



## arvinz

iamjanco said:


> Magnum opus.
> 
> Three thumbs up!


Thank you 🤘 Still a have a lot to go but I have the luxury of working on another PC while I build this one out. Taking my time to figure out every detail.


----------



## dwolvin

arvinz said:


> Thank you 🤘 Still a have a lot to go but I have the luxury of working on another PC while I build this one out. Taking my time to figure out every detail.


That's amazing. I'm always on the counter building my only computer. Usually because something too old to bother replacing is dead.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> That's amazing. I'm always on the counter building my only computer. Usually because something too old to bother replacing is dead.


My best purchases to date have been my caselabs cases lol. Only items that have survived multiple rebuilds etc. Either myself or among my friends. All other parts last 2-3years before i endedup replacing

Unless your sponsored, it's really an non-sustainable hobby long term imo if you experiment and try new stuff etc on frequent enough basis.


----------



## arvinz

Biggu said:


> SEM paint is the cream of the crop IMO and im sure it will work well if the tubes are properly prepped. Personally I really like that chrome tube look but hey each their own.
> 
> I think the o11 hate is just due to the fact that its such a popular case.
> 
> 
> 
> man got me thinkin back to the old days. Did my first loop in 2006 and have not done an aircooled build (other than a server) since then. Back in the day when Danger Den was around and kicking whoa boy.


I'll be honest, I'm undecided at the moment. I did a quick photoshop and changed the tubes to a black colour and I'm not sure I'm loving it. I think I have to actually do a sample spray on a spare tube, drop it into one of the fittings and see how it looks...I had my heart set on painting the tubes a satin black but now I'm rethinking it after seeing the photoshop mockup. I think if my fittings were all black, it would make more sense but not sure.


----------



## Sir Beregond

ciarlatano said:


> For me....I loved the look of the O11, and the build quality is good, but when I tried to build in it, it was a big disappointment. Seemingly obvious components don't fit, and the airflow always seems to be an issue. I don't hate them, and don't bash them, but I certainly wouldn't use one and don't like building in them. Aesthetically, they are great, so I understand the attraction.


The airflow thing does have me a bit stumped. I haven't put the new rig in yet, but depending on how that turns out, may get a different front panel with fan mounts.

That said, I came from a Corsair Air 540 before I got my O11-D and for me it fixed a lot of my chief complaints with the Corsair case. As someone who was still using hard drives at the time, I never understood why the Corsair case didn't have a cage in the back compartment like my O11-D does for HDD mounting. As such, having them mounted to the floor over time really caused some vibration noise issues with the Corsair case. I don't get that problem with the O11-D.

My biggest complaint with the O11-D though is that they really should have made it slightly wider as the size of graphics cards these days coupled with a waterblock often times will not fit. Looks like they fixed that issue with all their newer iterations of the O11-D lineup but just don't understand why they went this route in the first case.

Secondly, I really do feel like an optional version with a non-glass front panel with fan mounts should be a thing. Even just included in the box. How much really is an extra front panel. I imagine the tempered glass would be more expensive.

Anyway, I really like dual chambered cases of this format personally. I guess we'll see if I still like it when it comes time to do the new build with the much bigger radiators, plus using an actual reservoir, not a distro plate. Should be interesting...


----------



## dwolvin

Agree with all of that.


----------



## superguest

Section31 said:


> Its because an portion of the user base here in this thread is top 10%. Older group that uses custom built cases, heavily modded cases, super unique cases like yuel beasts and the remains of the caselabs group.
> 
> How many elsewhere will throw 1000usd at cases among things. Lianli and most mass market case manufacturers cut some corners we don’t like. Some of us really are in niche case categories so custom cases or super modded cases.


Daniel @ SC have been trying super hard to fill that gap after CaseLabs had gone. I find his cases always on sale on many online retailers when they're actually in stock. :cackles:, :tee-hee:, :snickers:.

I've bought stuffS from Daniel not too long after he started his channel. (In fact, I still have 4 Triebwerk TK-122 mid-speeds still sealed that I bought from him over a decade ago lol). While his cases do have some nice features but they're not enough to really set themselves apart and to justify the price tag.

Don't need to tell me bout the power distribution boards and the the distroplates. Those to me are merely: "Okay, that's pretty neat" and are nice to have, but they don't _make_ a case.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

arvinz said:


> I'll be honest, I'm undecided at the moment. I did a quick photoshop and changed the tubes to a black colour and I'm not sure I'm loving it. I think I have to actually do a sample spray on a spare tube, drop it into one of the fittings and see how it looks...I had my heart set on painting the tubes a satin black but now I'm rethinking it after seeing the photoshop mockup. I think if my fittings were all black, it would make more sense but not sure.


Go black!
I did exactly the same photoshopping it and I’ll be honest it’s not even close to how it looks in real life. Everyone is saying my matte black looks awesome but when people see them in real life…the size,the tubes in matte black,Phanteks 90 degree fittings and both optimus CPU/GPU blocks they say it’s a complete different level.
I’m not sure how satin black looks but the krylon matte black is on a black hole level black,there’s zero light shining off of it it looks amazing. Tho that might be my taste also but haven’t seen or heard anyone not being impressed when you see it in real life. Black is unique,you don’t see many hard tubes spray painted. Just do not make a lian-li rgb puke build. Keep it classy


----------



## D-EJ915

ciarlatano said:


> For me....I loved the look of the O11, and the build quality is good, but when I tried to build in it, it was a big disappointment. Seemingly obvious components don't fit, and the airflow always seems to be an issue. I don't hate them, and don't bash them, but I certainly wouldn't use one and don't like building in them. Aesthetically, they are great, so I understand the attraction.


The grilles on it really kill airflow for sure, anybody using the bottom for intake/exhaust should cut out the metal grill like we used to do back in 90s-00s lol. I noticed the newer versions have more and more open metalwork there, wonder why...


----------



## arvinz

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Go black!
> I did exactly the same photoshopping it and I’ll be honest it’s not even close to how it looks in real life. Everyone is saying my matte black looks awesome but when people see them in real life…the size,the tubes in matte black,Phanteks 90 degree fittings and both optimus CPU/GPU blocks they say it’s a complete different level.
> I’m not sure how satin black looks but the krylon matte black is on a black hole level black,there’s zero light shining off of it it looks amazing. Tho that might be my taste also but haven’t seen or heard anyone not being impressed when you see it in real life. Black is unique,you don’t see many hard tubes spray painted. Just do not make a lian-li rgb puke build. Keep it classy


Ya I have a feeling once I do a test paint, I'll get a different feeling...photoshop isn't the best. I'm going for very very minimal rgb...I'm using the uni fans and that's as much RGB as I want but I may even tone those down or turn it off completely..I'll know better once it's all up and running. The mobo has a bit of rgb which I might turn off and also the High Flow Next...I think that's about it.


----------



## arvinz

Here's another update. Finished of the tube runs from the GPU block to the distro...the High Flow Next run was a little tricky as it sat a little higher than I wanted it to...had to use a rotating 90 degree fitting on the distro side to fit.

The other run you see that's diagonal from the front left port of the Strix block will in fact go from the backside; I was just trying to get that measurement done from the front and then I'm going to shorten the run to the distro once it's setup from the back left port.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

arvinz said:


> Ya I have a feeling once I do a test paint, I'll get a different feeling...photoshop isn't the best. I'm going for very very minimal rgb...I'm using the uni fans and that's as much RGB as I want but I may even tone those down or turn it off completely..I'll know better once it's all up and running. The mobo has a bit of rgb which I might turn off and also the High Flow Next...I think that's about it.



Yep,I've completely turned everything I could mobowise off
The Phanteks case and the rear reservoir are connected and Phanteks imo has by far the best looking rgb (flows purple/orange/yeloowish isn't static rgb) from any manufacturer so it looks great together and equal. Not one shines more/brighter then the other and set the rgb for the High Flow Next to be similar as the 2 so it all looks like 1 rgb connection.
But I've also spray painted my reservoir matte black,this isn't even a original Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 res had to play around because it's not 360mm it's 480ish. I was sweating like crazy if it'll be good or not,if it wasn't I would've had to scrap the whole idea I had and start new. People were saying "You can't fit a 60mm rad in the bottom,we tried it it doesn't fit"...dumb idiots,you just had to DIY and make yourself 4mm spacers (I took the rad screws) to put it up higher so it goes over the outer edge of the case. Nothing rocket science about it...tip never listen to internet idiots because you'll never be able to do anything!


----------



## Sir Beregond

D-EJ915 said:


> The grilles on it really kill airflow for sure, anybody using the bottom for intake/exhaust should cut out the metal grill like we used to do back in 90s-00s lol. I noticed the newer versions have more and more open metalwork there, wonder why...


Oh yeah I forgot about this part. I definitely agree that the grill cutouts are pretty restrictive, so I'll call that another miss on the O11-D.

Man, last case I cut anything out of was a front fan mount grill in the Corsair 650D back in the day. Overall liked the case, but man that had some strange design decisions.


----------



## Section31

superguest said:


> Daniel @ SC have been trying super hard to fill that gap after CaseLabs had gone. I find his cases always on sale on many online retailers when they're actually in stock. :cackles:, :tee-hee:, :snickers:.
> 
> I've bought stuffS from Daniel not too long after he started his channel. (In fact, I still have 4 Triebwerk TK-122 mid-speeds still sealed that I bought from him over a decade ago lol). While his cases do have some nice features but they're not enough to really set themselves apart and to justify the price tag.
> 
> Don't need to tell me bout the power distribution boards and the the distroplates. Those to me are merely: "Okay, that's pretty neat" and are nice to have, but they don't _make_ a case.


Update: Singularity Computer has an flexbay so they can help. You might want to contact outsider1234


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Oh yeah I forgot about this part. I definitely agree that the grill cutouts are pretty restrictive, so I'll call that another miss on the O11-D.
> 
> Man, last case I cut anything out of was a front fan mount grill in the Corsair 650D back in the day. Overall liked the case, but man that had some strange design decisions.


The best looking/easy to build in retail cases are all the itx cases. They really are modular cases and i find easier to build in than atx cases.

My whole office will go nr200 for all future pcs. Amazing what cheap itx sff pc cases offer in terms of modularity and ease of building.


----------



## bearsdidit

Section31 said:


> The best looking/easy to build in retail cases are all the itx cases. They really are modular cases and i find easier to build in than atx cases.
> 
> My whole office will go nr200 for all future pcs. Amazing what cheap itx sff pc cases offer in terms of modularity and ease of building.


I would love to do a NR200 w/ a Mo-Ra! However, I'm not sure if my Strix/Optimus block would fit in the case.


----------



## yaohanzex

Has the aquacomputer flow indicator next's ticking issue been resolved? I just ordered one from aquacomputer website and it will arrive tomorrow.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

yaohanzex said:


> Has the aquacomputer flow indicator next's ticking issue been resolved? I just ordered one from aquacomputer website and it will arrive tomorrow.


Never had a issue with mine or heard any sound,runs flawlessly. The only issue I had with anything in my build was with the OCTO after an update,but after talking with Sven from Aquacomputer they sent out a new one and I received mine after 4 days. No issues afterwards


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Just saw this and I can’t ****ing believe they’re really slapping some **** RGB on mounting brackets? Do you really need now rgb on that to?
Probably even the low light cheap crap rgb where white turns purple and it reflects like only 50% strength what other components do 🤮🤢
Don’t you have enough rgb everywhere else,probably can’t even hold a 3080/3090 properly instead they went all out on the rgb










Ohhhh just saw it’s a pcie 3.0 but is “HIGHLY FOLDABLE AND FLEXIBLE”,and when you see in description “BRILLIANT LIGHTING” you know it’s cheap **** ☹


----------



## LiquidHaus

yaohanzex said:


> Has the aquacomputer flow indicator next's ticking issue been resolved? I just ordered one from aquacomputer website and it will arrive tomorrow.


I snagged four of them when they launched, and they all seem to tick when the fluid temperature is high, like 40c and over. Then again, that was the very first wave of them at launch. I have no idea what they did to fix that though.


----------



## ciarlatano

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Just saw this and I can’t **ing believe they’re really slapping some ** RGB on mounting brackets? Do you really need now rgb on that to?
> Probably even the low light cheap crap rgb where white turns purple and it reflects like only 50% strength what other components do 🤮🤢
> Don’t you have enough rgb everywhere else,probably can’t even hold a 3080/3090 properly instead they went all out on the rgb
> 
> View attachment 2550610
> 
> 
> Ohhhh just saw it’s a pcie 3.0 but is “HIGHLY FOLDABLE AND FLEXIBLE”,and when you see in description “BRILLIANT LIGHTING” you know it’s cheap **** ☹
> 
> View attachment 2550613


It's Alphacool. Which makes nothing about it surprising. Except the ridiculous price tag.


----------



## elbramso

LiquidHaus said:


> I snagged four of them when they launched, and they all seem to tick when the fluid temperature is high, like 40c and over. Then again, that was the very first wave of them at launch. I have no idea what they did to fix that though.


Noticed this ticking on mine while I was measuring my gpu delta on full pump speed. 265lph and 29c water made this thing tick as well 🤣


----------



## Biggu

Ive had ticking on mine and it depends on its orientation. I had a ticket for something unrelated and brough it up to aqua computer and what they asked me to do was to open it up use my thumb on the propeller and put a bit of pressure and run it back and forth a few times to smooth out the surfaces. Helped quite a bit actually now no more clicking for mine in the correct orientation. Granted ive got the much older flowmeters but still.


----------



## chibi

I've read the newer High Flow Next & High Flow 2 use the same propeller design as the older High Flow units. The change is more with the other features such as built in temp sensor, connectivity and Next features. The newer High Flow's and older one will provide the same flow measurements.

With that said, a lot of the ticking noise has to do with the rate of flow. The higher your GPM, the more pronounced the ticking may be is what I've gathered from various posts.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

My flow is kinda piss poor not going to lie but my temps are ridiculously good for the oc and ambient I have going on. 
My flow is only 153 avg,what I’ve read it’s bad but I never really cared as my temps are great.


----------



## dwolvin

153 what? I ran that as LPM, but it doesn't work...


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

dwolvin said:


> 153 what? I ran that as LPM, but it doesn't work...


Aquacomputer High Flow Next is showing flow 155L/h…is that piss poor?


----------



## dwolvin

Ah! I'm in America so I measure in washing machines per week, but yeah that's a little low. I would not worry at all if the temps are good, but I have always heard teh goal as being about 150% for happiest temperature transfer. But I promise you, my build is all jacked up and runs fine- I get it!


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Idk my temps are good gpu never exceeds 38degrees and hot spot is 58degrees at 220+ core and 1525+ mem oc after 2h gaming. But I know my flow is kinda bad…who cares it’s flowing 😂🤣


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Idk my temps are good gpu never exceeds 38degrees and hot spot is 58degrees at 220+ core and 1525+ mem oc after 2h gaming. But I know my flow is kinda bad…who cares it’s flowing 😂🤣


Why not put in a D5 in-line pump without reservoir using something like the Aquacomputer Ultitop? "Relatively" cheap. 155 is definitely low. It's just 0.68 GPM. You want 0.8 as an absolute minimum. 1 GPM ideal.


























Aquacomputer 41123 ULTITOP Pumpenadapter für D5-Pumpen Water Cooling Pumps : Amazon.ca: Electronics


Aquacomputer 41123 ULTITOP Pumpenadapter für D5-Pumpen Water Cooling Pumps : Amazon.ca: Electronics



www.amazon.ca





Can fit any D5 pump to it.


----------



## JKurz

Ordered a KP signature block along with their new v2 intel CPU block 2 weeks ago. What's the odds I receive anything by summer time???


----------



## elbramso

HyperMatrix said:


> Why not put in a D5 in-line pump without reservoir using something like the Aquacomputer Ultitop? "Relatively" cheap. 155 is definitely low. It's just 0.68 GPM. You want 0.8 as an absolute minimum. 1 GPM ideal.
> 
> View attachment 2550805
> 
> View attachment 2550807
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer 41123 ULTITOP Pumpenadapter für D5-Pumpen Water Cooling Pumps : Amazon.ca: Electronics
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer 41123 ULTITOP Pumpenadapter für D5-Pumpen Water Cooling Pumps : Amazon.ca: Electronics
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.ca
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can fit any D5 pump to it.


That's what I do as well


----------



## LiquidHaus

I sit between 285 LPH to 305 LPH depending on fluid temp.


----------



## ChrisLB

I don't even remember the last time I posted on these forums, I usually lurk and read, but someone said that my info may be useful in this thread, so here I am.

My ambient cooling comparison of Optimus Kingpin 3090 Blocks vs stock Hybrid coolers:

With the two 3090 KP cards in SLI/NVLink, the biggest Port Royal score difference I was able to get over the stock hybrid coolers and the Optimus blocks so far was about 700 points. The scores were 29,945 vs 29,223.

The cooling for the cards with Optimus 3090 Kingpin blocks was two radiators(360mmx30mm and 280mmx45mm) with the fans at 100% speed and a D5 pump at max speed cooling the KP 3090s only. The CPU was cooled separately.

That was in comparison to the same 3090 Kingpin cards with the stock hybrid cooling system which has the slim 360mm AIO radiators. The average clock speed with the Optimus blocks was a little less than 15 MHz higher than the stock hybrid coolers. I was able to get a slightly higher memory overclock(about 50 MHz) with the cards using the Optimus waterblocks. However, I couldn't get a higher stable GPU overclock compared to the stock hybrid coolers. The main difference was the GPU clock speeds stayed higher a little longer with the Optimus blocks, so their average speed was a little higher through the benchmark. 

Almost 7 months wait and $1200 for 700 points improvement, a slightly better memory overclock, and less than 15 MHz average GPU speed improvement. That was definitely worth the wait and money! LOL

I still have to do some sub ambient cooling tests. Maybe the blocks will show better improvement there.

If anyone is wondering about my experience with overclocking the Kingpin 3090s, until a few months ago, I had the 3rd highest RTX 3090 Port Royal NVLink/SLI score on HWBOT. I'm still in the top 5 there. I'm also 13th place on the 3DMark Port Royal Hall of Fame.


----------



## LiquidHaus

It's never guaranteed a block will net you a better bin-like overclock.

My card's performance increased post block, mainly because it never fluctuates speed based on increasing temp. The temp doesn't increase. So I've got a solid OC all the time when in heavy use.

The AIO sucked so bad for that. Core clocks all over the place.


----------



## ChrisLB

I knew the block probably wouldn't give a noticeable clock speed increase. I just want people to be aware its not going to help significantly with overclocking under ambient conditions. The difference in GPU temps with the AIO vs the Optimus block is about 20C peak during various benchmarks. At most it might get an additional 15 MHz peak clock speed. In reality it just holds the higher clock speed longer.

I'm wondering if the chilled coolant performance will be significantly better than the EVGA Hydro Copper blocks I had. The backplate cooling actually might have a negative effect on VRAM speed because sometimes GDDR6X behaves a bit weird at or below 0C.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> Why not put in a D5 in-line pump without reservoir using something like the Aquacomputer Ultitop? "Relatively" cheap. 155 is definitely low. It's just 0.68 GPM. You want 0.8 as an absolute minimum. 1 GPM ideal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer 41123 ULTITOP Pumpenadapter für D5-Pumpen Water Cooling Pumps : Amazon.ca: Electronics
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer 41123 ULTITOP Pumpenadapter für D5-Pumpen Water Cooling Pumps : Amazon.ca: Electronics
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.ca
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can fit any D5 pump to it.


You know why my flow is bad?

Because there is no reservoir for the Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2,the one I have was meant to add a slim radiator in the front of the case with fans. But the issue is then I wouldn’t be able to add the XE360 rad and fans at the bottom.
So instead that the flow goes from upper rad to the reservoir,then into the front rad and back into the reservoir my flow goes upper rad to reservoir which one goes into the OPTIMUS res at the bottom and one separates into the reservoir and down to the DDC pump. Basically making traffic and halts the flow,so there’s 2 options have better flow or have much better aesthetics.
I choose aesthetics over flow,but the temps are great,more then great so it was worth it at the end!

But I’ll add your idea,I already have a brand new EK D5 pump and some other stuff. Will see how I feel might add a extra OPTIMUS res because I have another one in nickel laying around brand new.
If I really feel it one of these days I might separate and have one rad exclusively for the GPU and the upper rad exclusively for the CPU and just add the unused OPTIMUS res with EK D5 pump and use the rear res for flow. Now it’s just there to give some rgb it’s empty 😆


EDIT : Tho in the summer time the flow was 205-220 so it might be the water temp currently or I’ve added a bit to much Mayhem’s XT-V2? I’ve noticed when I added a tab more Mayhem’s my flow got worse but I haven’t noticed anything weird with it,looked like normal hydrated piss morning yellow and nothing the previous bottles didn’t look like


----------



## CluckyTaco

Does anyone else have the same issue with the cerakote mid-plate on their blocks like I do? I see rust on the edges of the block where the gasket meets the mid-plate. I've already contacted optimus and patiently await for their response but I figured the collective brain trust here might shed some light.

My components include, Alphacool fittings, Koolance QD3s, Koolance low profile fittings, Aquacomputer D5s with reservoir, Modmymods Black tubing, HWL 560mm GTX radiator, Optimus Intel foundation block. Liquid is Target Distilled water and Mayhems Inhibitors (https://mayhems.store/may_b2c/mayhems-water-cooling-systems-inhibitor-and-hades-15ml.html).

I found this out in the midst of cleaning since I recently moved to a new location.

Any suggestion is greatly appreciated and TIA!!

Edit: Grammar!


----------



## ArchStanton

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Because there is no reservoir for the Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2


I modded the front plastic cover on the EP2 in order to be able to fit a 40mm thick 480mm front rad with 3 of the 4 25mm thick fans mounted outside the metal chassis but inside the front plastic shroud (uppermost front fan still has to go inside because of the front IO module). This left me room for a 360x64 rad in the bottom. However, you may be disgusted with the aesthetics of my "solution" 🤷‍♂️.


----------



## GLuE

edit


----------



## GLuE

CluckyTaco said:


> Does anyone else have the same issue with the cerakote mid-plate on their blocks like I do? I see rust on the edges of the block where the gasket meets the mid-plate. I've already contacted optimus and patiently await for their response but I figured the collective brain trust here might shed some light.
> 
> My components include, Alphacool fittings, Koolance QD3s, Koolance low profile fittings, Aquacomputer D5s with reservoir, Modmymods Black tubing, HWL 560mm GTX radiator, Optimus Intel foundation block. Liquid is Target Distilled water and Mayhems Inhibitors (https://mayhems.store/may_b2c/mayhems-water-cooling-systems-inhibitor-and-hades-15ml.html).
> 
> I found this out in the midst of cleaning since I recently moved to a new location.
> 
> Any suggestion is greatly appreciated and TIA!!
> 
> Edit: Grammar!
> 
> View attachment 2551088
> 
> View attachment 2551087
> 
> View attachment 2551085
> 
> View attachment 2551086


I had the same issue. It’s not rust. It’s exposed copper. Contact Optimus for a replacement.


----------



## arvinz

Did a leak test last night. Pumped to just a tad over 0,5 bar.

Went from this (around midnight):











To this (9 hours later):










I should be good right? It went down a small amount but that seems to be acceptable given air can escape a lot easier than water. Thoughts?


----------



## bearsdidit

arvinz said:


> Did a leak test last night. Pumped to just a tad over 0,5 bar.
> 
> Went from this (around midnight):
> 
> View attachment 2551127
> 
> 
> 
> To this (9 hours later):
> 
> View attachment 2551128
> 
> 
> I should be good right? It went down a small amount but that seems to be acceptable given air can escape a lot easier than water. Thoughts?


EK suggest running the test for 15 minutes so you should be fine.


----------



## arvinz

bearsdidit said:


> EK suggest running the test for 15 minutes so you should be fine.


 I knew that would be the first comment LOL  Honestly I was planning on leaving it for around 30-45 min last night but it got late and I said **** it. Left it on and went to bed.


----------



## Biggu

EK testers are known to leak too so im sure you are fine.


----------



## ArchStanton

arvinz said:


> It went down a small amount but that seems to be acceptable


Temperature variations will also cause the air trapped in the loop to expand and contract influencing the pressure reading .


----------



## arvinz

Biggu said:


> EK testers are known to leak too so im sure you are fine.


Yep, it's what I've heard as well. Appreciated it 



ArchStanton said:


> Temperature variations will also cause the air trapped in the loop to expand and contract influencing the pressure reading .


Gotcha, good to know  Will drop in some liquid this week and test out the hardware and then finally move onto software testing. Hopefully the Strix 3090 works fine, putting the Optimus block on was pretty straightforward but still nerve-wrecking a bit.


----------



## arvinz

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Yep,I've completely turned everything I could mobowise off
> The Phanteks case and the rear reservoir are connected and Phanteks imo has by far the best looking rgb (flows purple/orange/yeloowish isn't static rgb) from any manufacturer so it looks great together and equal. Not one shines more/brighter then the other and set the rgb for the High Flow Next to be similar as the 2 so it all looks like 1 rgb connection.
> But I've also spray painted my reservoir matte black,this isn't even a original Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 res had to play around because it's not 360mm it's 480ish. I was sweating like crazy if it'll be good or not,if it wasn't I would've had to scrap the whole idea I had and start new. People were saying "You can't fit a 60mm rad in the bottom,we tried it it doesn't fit"...dumb idiots,you just had to DIY and make yourself 4mm spacers (I took the rad screws) to put it up higher so it goes over the outer edge of the case. Nothing rocket science about it...tip never listen to internet idiots because you'll never be able to do anything!


Did a paint test yesterday on some spare tubes to see if I like the Carbon Mist or SEM black paint options. Once I put them side by side and held them up against the case, I prefer the stock chrome. I think if my fittings were a satin black or a carbon grey, then I'd lean towards changing the tube colours. I also noticed that the SEM black scratched a lot easier then the Carbon Mist. But that could just be the inconsistency in paint spray technique. Saves me a lot of headache!


----------



## dwolvin

The middle ( Carbon Mist ?) looks interesting, but I agree that the chrome probably looks best (imho/ymmv).


----------



## CluckyTaco

GLuE said:


> I had the same issue. It’s not rust. It’s exposed copper. Contact Optimus for a replacement.


Thanks for the suggestion. I've already sent the same pictures to them. What was the turnaround time once they responded to your complaint? I'm asking since it's a known fact that their support response is kinda lacking.


----------



## Section31

I just got my fittings and just fyi for those. The fittings colors has definitely changed from the original Xe-Nickel (its resembles there aluminum ceratoke instead). Especially the bottom
of the soft tubing, original was xe-nickel interior.


----------



## Biggu

yup its unfortunate, that new "nickle" is terrible


----------



## geriatricpollywog

dwolvin said:


> Ah! I'm in America so I measure in washing machines per week, but yeah that's a little low. I would not worry at all if the temps are good, but I have always heard teh goal as being about 150% for happiest temperature transfer. But I promise you, my build is all jacked up and runs fine- I get it!


In America, we measure everything in inches. Pressure, volume, temperature, velocity. Just inches.


----------



## yaohanzex

I just ordered something on Optimus website. I’m really surprised they indeed have something in stock and ship right away.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

*** is this ****?

Nobody writes here for 3-4 days and suddenly you have 15 people all at once?


@arvinz
Agree! The chrome looks better and imho the build/pics I’ve seen it looked great. For me personally (my taste) 2 colors max,black or chrome…my initial idea was to do chrome but opted for matte black. Looking at it now with the chrome fitting it’s better to not go black but I do like the grey middle one.


@geriatricpollywog 
Everytime I see you I need to say your name GERIATRICWOLLYPOG like 10 times because I find it funny. It completely breaks my tongue,I probably pronounce it horribly…I have no idea what it even means if it even means anything? It’s so weird I find it hilarious 😆


----------



## bearsdidit

yaohanzex said:


> I just ordered something on Optimus website. I’m really surprised they indeed have something in stock and ship right away.


I acutally emailed them this morning about the availability of some soft fittings and they said they would ship tomorrow. Fingers crossed!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> ** is this ***?
> 
> Nobody writes here for 3-4 days and suddenly you have 15 people all at once?
> 
> 
> @arvinz
> Agree! The chrome looks better and imho the build/pics I’ve seen it looked great. For me personally (my taste) 2 colors max,black or chrome…my initial idea was to do chrome but opted for matte black. Looking at it now with the chrome fitting it’s better to not go black but I do like the grey middle one.
> 
> 
> @geriatricpollywog
> Everytime I see you I need to say your name GERIATRICWOLLYPOG like 10 times because I find it funny. It completely breaks my tongue,I probably pronounce it horribly…I have no idea what it even means if it even means anything? It’s so weird I find it hilarious 😆


It doesn’t mean anything. I’ve been using it as a screen name since I was around 14 years old.


----------



## ArchStanton

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I have no idea what it even means if it even means anything?





geriatricpollywog said:


> It doesn’t mean anything.


Hmm, @geriatricpollywog should be =







+ time.


----------



## iamjanco

geriatricpollywog said:


> I’ve been using it as a screen name since I was around 14 years old.


Funny.

_2001: A Space Odyssey_ was released by Kubrick when I was 14. The only _people_ who had screen names back then were those like HAL.


----------



## Section31




----------



## dwolvin

New on the right? I like the left better either way (from those shots).


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> New on the right? I like the left better either way (from those shots).


New is on the right, old on the left. You can tell by the color of the back. Old xe-nickel was xe-nickel for the whole fittings. Basically the black/silver chrome finish is used for everything now.


----------



## GLuE

CluckyTaco said:


> Thanks for the suggestion. I've already sent the same pictures to them. What was the turnaround time once they responded to your complaint? I'm asking since it's a known fact that their support response is kinda lacking.


They shipped my replacement the next day.


----------



## elbramso

Posted this on the RTX3090 owners thread as well... fishing for attention^^
Let's just say @Optimus made this possible ;-)

As winter kinda had comeback here in northern Germany I decided to torture my KPE once more.
After freezing for 2 hours straight I found a sweetspot of voltage and offset/vf curve. Watertemp was down to 0.2c but crashed until it got to 0.8c at the start of the run.
The curve + classified settings where stable three runs in a row - so there still might be little room for improvement^^ 
Anyways I guess I'm done for now - was a hell lot of fun but very frustrating at times.

Here is the run:








I scored 16 751 in Port Royal


Intel Core i9-10900K Processor, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 x 1, 32768 MB, 64-bit Windows 10}




www.3dmark.com





Still on water, no chiller!


----------



## arvinz

Getting closer. Have to run out and get some fresh distilled water and then I can start this puppy:


----------



## bearsdidit

arvinz said:


> Getting closer. Have to run out and get some fresh distilled water and then I can start this puppy:
> 
> View attachment 2551323
> 
> 
> View attachment 2551324
> 
> 
> View attachment 2551325
> 
> 
> View attachment 2551326
> 
> 
> View attachment 2551327
> 
> 
> View attachment 2551328


Beautiful work! Will the side panel still fit properly?


----------



## arvinz

The side panel JUST barely fits...I'd say it's about just over half a cm from away from the High Flow NEXT. When I was setting it up, I completely forgot about the side panel clearance but just got lucky that it fits!

No issues on the back panel either, D5 Next fits perfectly.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

That’s beautiful!

I approve this build 🫡


----------



## ArchStanton

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> That’s beautiful!
> 
> I approve this build 🫡


Agreed, aesthetically it is a masterpiece, but you know the "copper" colored elements visible on the GPU PCB trigger his "_*must*_ be grey, silver, or black" OCD from time-to-time 🤣.


----------



## dwolvin

Make black paper washers?


----------



## arvinz

ArchStanton said:


> Agreed, aesthetically it is a masterpiece, but you know the "copper" colored elements visible on the GPU PCB trigger his "_*must*_ be grey, silver, or black" OCD from time-to-time 🤣.


LOL yes, yes it does. Although, the Bitspower logo on some of the fittings has a similar coppery like reflection so it seems to work ok. Black paper washers would be hilarious to do  

It's not so bad overall. Not sure how it'll look with the fan rgb lights on but I initially didn't want any rgb lighting at all...but I may just try a muted white rgb and see how it looks.


----------



## arvinz

dwolvin said:


> Make black paper washers?


Look at what you've done...now I'm on Amazon looking for black washers


----------



## dwolvin

Ha! But seriously, white light will probably look amazing (but any solid color will look good on that build).


----------



## arvinz

dwolvin said:


> Ha! But seriously, white light will probably look amazing (but any solid color will look good on that build).


Appreciate it bud, thx. Just can't wait to see how this Optimus block performs! I've had this block since last July so it's a long time coming.


----------



## LiquidHaus

arvinz said:


> Getting closer. Have to run out and get some fresh distilled water and then I can start this puppy:



Absolutely stunning 011 build, my friend! I am personally a little surprised you didn't run an acrylic top on the CPU to match the GPU.


----------



## arvinz

LiquidHaus said:


> Absolutely stunning 011 build, my friend! I am personally a little surprised you didn't run an acrylic top on the CPU to match the GPU.


That's a huge compliment coming from you, much appreciated.

I did consider the acrylic top! I got the CPU block from Performance PCs over a year ago and at the time the acrylic version wasn't available on Optimus's website or PPC's. I actually prefer this look but would be interesting to see if I could paint the acrylic top of the GPU block to match. 

Bitspower is starting to release their fittings in a carbon black colour and they are soon releasing carbon black brass tubing...what I might do is switch everything to that when I do my first flush. At that point I'll see if I can figure out a solution for the acrylic top of the GPU. If I can get a spare and test with plastidip or something. Or I may give this SEM trim black paint a try.


----------



## ArchStanton

arvinz said:


> but would be interesting to see if I could paint the acrylic top of the GPU block to match


I think many adhesion promoters are compatible with acrylic. However, I think for the most durable results you will need to "scuff" the acrylic first. So, there is a bit of a "no turning back" point early in the process.


----------



## LiquidHaus

arvinz said:


> That's a huge compliment coming from you, much appreciated.
> 
> I did consider the acrylic top! I got the CPU block from Performance PCs over a year ago and at the time the acrylic version wasn't available on Optimus's website or PPC's. I actually prefer this look but would be interesting to see if I could paint the acrylic top of the GPU block to match.
> 
> Bitspower is starting to release their fittings in a carbon black colour and they are soon releasing carbon black brass tubing...what I might do is switch everything to that when I do my first flush. At that point I'll see if I can figure out a solution for the acrylic top of the GPU. If I can get a spare and test with plastidip or something. Or I may give this SEM trim black paint a try.


I believe Optimus had inquired to see if anyone was interested in acetal tops to their GPU blocks. Not sure where that went though.


----------



## criskoe

Few people including myself have been asking for Acetal versions since before the the very first gpu block was even released... They said it was something they would do one day but that never came to anything... Then there was talk of black acrylic. Which would be awesome But again nothing ever came of it..... I personally would love to see smoked/tinted acrylic blocks... That would be fire!

At this point the best reversible option IMO is to vinyl wrap the card front. I did the sides of my block and terminal and it looks awesome. I have some experience with automotive vinyl wrap so I did myn with just a exacto knife but if you own a plotter, you could make some pretty accurate skins with window cutouts if you wanted. And best part is if you need to service block. Just remove the vinyl with a heat gun...

The vinyl has held up perfectly on my card. And it looks stock like it supposed to be that way..


----------



## HyperMatrix

Since this thread is off topic as is, just wanted to share the Alienware AW3423DW QD-OLED is now live. Currently unlisted on Canadian site but can order below. Make sure to use coupon code:

Canada: Alienware 34 Curved QD-OLED Gaming Monitor - AW3423DW | Dell Canada

US: Alienware 34 Curved QD-OLED Gaming Monitor - AW3423DW | Dell USA

Key facts: 

3440x1440 curved display
QD OLED
175Hz 8-Bit or 144Hz 10-Bit
Using old G-Sync module so through DP only. No HDMI 2.1
No Dolby Vision
anti-reflection filter, not anti-glare. So more glossy than matte.
RGB subpixels, but in diamond formation.
10% window 1000 nits. 100% window 250-300 nits. Far superior to normal OLED. About 33% higher peak window and 66% higher full screen brightness compared to lg OLED.
no black frame insertion
3 year Dell warranty with advance exchange next day service. Burn in included.

Cheers.


----------



## GLuE

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/liquidhaus/comments/ta4h4d


----------



## arvinz

criskoe said:


> Few people including myself have been asking for Acetal versions since before the the very first gpu block was even released... They said it was something they would do one day but that never came to anything... Then there was talk of black acrylic. Which would be awesome But again nothing ever came of it..... I personally would love to see smoked/tinted acrylic blocks... That would be fire!
> 
> At this point the best reversible option IMO is to vinyl wrap the card front. I did the sides of my block and terminal and it looks awesome. I have some experience with automotive vinyl wrap so I did myn with just a exacto knife but if you own a plotter, you could make some pretty accurate skins with window cutouts if you wanted. And best part is if you need to service block. Just remove the vinyl with a heat gun...
> 
> The vinyl has held up perfectly on my card. And it looks stock like it supposed to be that way..


Just ordered some matte vinyl wrap lol...let's see what I can come up


----------



## Section31

arvinz said:


> That's a huge compliment coming from you, much appreciated.
> 
> I did consider the acrylic top! I got the CPU block from Performance PCs over a year ago and at the time the acrylic version wasn't available on Optimus's website or PPC's. I actually prefer this look but would be interesting to see if I could paint the acrylic top of the GPU block to match.
> 
> Bitspower is starting to release their fittings in a carbon black colour and they are soon releasing carbon black brass tubing...what I might do is switch everything to that when I do my first flush. At that point I'll see if I can figure out a solution for the acrylic top of the GPU. If I can get a spare and test with plastidip or something. Or I may give this SEM trim black paint a try.


I can imagine the bill adding up. Some of us here have done that up to recently and have been in the process of scaling things down now and doing more long term planning in this hobby.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> I believe Optimus had inquired to see if anyone was interested in acetal tops to their GPU blocks. Not sure where that went though.


I do hope they implement kingpin block design on future gpu blocks. Fan of watercool industrial metal look front always. However hope they can improve customer service and production side of things first.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Since this thread is off topic as is, just wanted to share the Alienware AW3423DW QD-OLED is now live. Currently unlisted on Canadian site but can order below. Make sure to use coupon code:
> 
> Canada: Alienware 34 Curved QD-OLED Gaming Monitor - AW3423DW | Dell Canada
> 
> US: Alienware 34 Curved QD-OLED Gaming Monitor - AW3423DW | Dell USA
> 
> Key facts:
> 
> 3440x1440 curved display
> QD OLED
> 175Hz 8-Bit or 144Hz 10-Bit
> Using old G-Sync module so through DP only. No HDMI 2.1
> No Dolby Vision
> anti-reflection filter, not anti-glare. So more glossy than matte.
> RGB subpixels, but in diamond formation.
> 10% window 1000 nits. 100% window 250-300 nits. Far superior to normal OLED. About 33% higher peak window and 66% higher full screen brightness compared to lg OLED.
> no black frame insertion
> 3 year Dell warranty with advance exchange next day service. Burn in included.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> View attachment 2551407
> 
> View attachment 2551408


Tip of the ice berg. I am actually targeting those miniled/oled 4k 32inch 144-165mhz True HDR10 announced models but not yet released from lg/samsung. Up to two years between announcements and retail availability.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> Since this thread is off topic as is, just wanted to share the Alienware AW3423DW QD-OLED is now live. Currently unlisted on Canadian site but can order below. Make sure to use coupon code:
> 
> Canada: Alienware 34 Curved QD-OLED Gaming Monitor - AW3423DW | Dell Canada
> 
> US: Alienware 34 Curved QD-OLED Gaming Monitor - AW3423DW | Dell USA
> 
> Key facts:
> 
> 3440x1440 curved display
> QD OLED
> 175Hz 8-Bit or 144Hz 10-Bit
> Using old G-Sync module so through DP only. No HDMI 2.1
> No Dolby Vision
> anti-reflection filter, not anti-glare. So more glossy than matte.
> RGB subpixels, but in diamond formation.
> 10% window 1000 nits. 100% window 250-300 nits. Far superior to normal OLED. About 33% higher peak window and 66% higher full screen brightness compared to lg OLED.
> no black frame insertion
> 3 year Dell warranty with advance exchange next day service. Burn in included.
> 
> Cheers.



Are you buying it?


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Are you buying it?


Yes sir. Finding a lot of games aren’t as enjoyable with the performance current gen GPUs get at 4K. Have a pg27uq right now which I love. This will be a bit of a drop in pixel density. But I’m hoping the higher fps/refresh rate along with much faster pixel transition will provide a better gaming experience. Until next gen GPUs//QD OLEDs come out.

It helps not being in one of the communist provinces. Grand total of $1560 CAD along with 2% back with RAKUTEN and 1% cash back on credit card. Should be well worth it. Or at least that's what I'm hoping right now. Haha. Will find out when it's delivered next week. Worst case scenario, I can still play controller-based games on the 77” OLED.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> Yes sir. Finding a lot of games aren’t as enjoyable with the performance current gen GPUs get at 4K. Have a pg27uq right now which I love. This will be a bit of a drop in pixel density. But I’m hoping the higher fps/refresh rate along with much faster pixel transition will provide a better gaming experience. Until next gen GPUs//QD OLEDs come out.
> 
> It helps not being in one of the communist provinces. Grand total of $1560 CAD along with 2% back with RAKUTEN and 1% cash back on credit card. Should be well worth it. Or at least that's what I'm hoping right now. Haha. Will find out when it's delivered next week. Worst case scenario, I can still play controller-based games on the 77” OLED.


Don’t forget to give us a update (me) how you think it compares to the LG OLED?! Really curious to see if it can hold up to LG’s OLEDS.
@Section31 lost control of his own thread here a looong time ago,so you’re good 🙂

Here in Ontario it’s a ****ing clown show! They’re literally closing shoting down everything from outside. Casino,travelling,buying stuff from the outside like credit cards fail constantly, crypto exchanges, that bank crap they did with freezing assets etc etc…I’m out of this **** show here,never again will I put a foot in Canada,whoever is fine being babysitted every single inch of his life good for you but I’m not one of them!


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Don’t forget to give us a update (me) how you think it compares to the LG OLED?! Really curious to see if it can hold up to LG’s OLEDS.
> @Section31 lost control of his own thread here a looong time ago,so you’re good 🙂
> 
> Here in Ontario it’s a **ing clown show! They’re literally closing shoting down everything from outside. Casino,travelling,buying stuff from the outside like credit cards fail constantly, crypto exchanges, that bank crap they did with freezing assets etc etc…I’m out of this ** show here,never again will I put a foot in Canada,whoever is fine being babysitted every single inch of his life good for you but I’m not one of them!


This thread was never mine, it was just an watercooling chat channel. It’s smart decision honestly to leave. Unload all your assets here imo then reinvest in an country with actual investment growth opportunity.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Yes sir. Finding a lot of games aren’t as enjoyable with the performance current gen GPUs get at 4K. Have a pg27uq right now which I love. This will be a bit of a drop in pixel density. But I’m hoping the higher fps/refresh rate along with much faster pixel transition will provide a better gaming experience. Until next gen GPUs//QD OLEDs come out.
> 
> It helps not being in one of the communist provinces. Grand total of $1560 CAD along with 2% back with RAKUTEN and 1% cash back on credit card. Should be well worth it. Or at least that's what I'm hoping right now. Haha. Will find out when it's delivered next week. Worst case scenario, I can still play controller-based games on the 77” OLED.


Not bad price. Its so hard to time Rakuten deals. Once in a while i managed to get 10-14% off. Do they let you use the 10% off monitor code. Dell tightened the codes from what i heard.


----------



## KedarWolf

HyperMatrix said:


> Since this thread is off topic as is, just wanted to share the Alienware AW3423DW QD-OLED is now live. Currently unlisted on Canadian site but can order below. Make sure to use coupon code:
> 
> Canada: Alienware 34 Curved QD-OLED Gaming Monitor - AW3423DW | Dell Canada
> 
> US: Alienware 34 Curved QD-OLED Gaming Monitor - AW3423DW | Dell USA
> 
> Key facts:
> 
> 3440x1440 curved display
> QD OLED
> 175Hz 8-Bit or 144Hz 10-Bit
> Using old G-Sync module so through DP only. No HDMI 2.1
> No Dolby Vision
> anti-reflection filter, not anti-glare. So more glossy than matte.
> RGB subpixels, but in diamond formation.
> 10% window 1000 nits. 100% window 250-300 nits. Far superior to normal OLED. About 33% higher peak window and 66% higher full screen brightness compared to lg OLED.
> no black frame insertion
> 3 year Dell warranty with advance exchange next day service. Burn in included.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> View attachment 2551407
> 
> View attachment 2551408


I'm really loving the Samsung Odyssey Neo G9, zero issues with it once I bought a Cable Matters braided HBR3 4K 240Hz DSC cable. The only issue I had on the old DP cable that came with it was I had to have VRR Control On or I'd get the occasional flicker in games. Fixed with the new cable.

The colours in games and even videos on YouTube etc. is far better than my 49" 3840x1080 Samsung CHG90 144Hz screen I had. I leave HDR on all the time in Windows 11 and no banding at 240Hz and HDR Dynamic with FALD on high and VRR Control off.

It is the latest revision 952 model though, I think the first revision had issues.

And it was only $1699.99 Canadian dollars on sale, $800 off.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Don’t forget to give us a update (me) how you think it compares to the LG OLED?! Really curious to see if it can hold up to LG’s OLEDS.
> @Section31 lost control of his own thread here a looong time ago,so you’re good 🙂
> 
> Here in Ontario it’s a **ing clown show! They’re literally closing shoting down everything from outside. Casino,travelling,buying stuff from the outside like credit cards fail constantly, crypto exchanges, that bank crap they did with freezing assets etc etc…I’m out of this ** show here,never again will I put a foot in Canada,whoever is fine being babysitted every single inch of his life good for you but I’m not one of them!


I do need an monitor tbh but matter of findings right one to invest in. I want to replace my 27inch LG IPS 4K Monitor at work. Been targeting 32inch 4K but i don’t feel like investing around 1000cad for an 4k60 IPS monitor. Reading display ninja upcoming list/uk forums/other uk based site has kept me waiting and waiting lol.

The LG OLED have minor issues that i’m not fan of. They haven’t fixed the handshake issues. That and the C9 limit me to Nvidia GPU and i am thinking going Intel or Amd in future. Also its not something i want to use for work purposes.

These are thing i will fix in next 2-3 years. Other priorities to focus on including finding an house or land to build one and raising an family.


----------



## bearsdidit

Solid temps for my Strix 3090 with a Optimus block:


----------



## ChrisLB

I tried to beat my Port Royal scores I achieved with the Kingpin 3090s and Hydro Copper blocks using my new Optimus blocks. I couldn't beat my previous scores. With 1C chilled water, the Optimus blocks were only 7-8C cooler(max difference) than the Hydro Copper blocks. The 8C Max lower temperature didn't allow me to sustain a higher boost clock long enough to make a difference. I could get the GPU temps down to 1-2C before each benchmark run, but they would hit 19-20C and stay there even with dual(serial) D5 pumps to ensure adequate flow. With the Hydro Copper blocks I could also get the GPUs down to 1-2C before the benchmark, but their peak temperature was about 27C. I was really hoping to sustain at least 15 MHz higher clock speeds through the benchmark run with the Optimus blocks.


I think that maybe the limit is the voltage that you can safely run without getting the GPUs much colder. In the past, Vince said a max of 1.2v for NVVDD and MSVDD even at 0C. I also tried voltages lower than 1.2v, but that didn't help temperatures or with sustaining clock speeds.

Also, I'm still convinced that my Gaming X Trio 3090 has a golden GPU. It can sustain 2,325 MHz at stock voltage in some 3DMark benchmarks using chilled water and an EK GPU block.


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Don’t forget to give us a update (me) how you think it compares to the LG OLED?! Really curious to see if it can hold up to LG’s OLEDS.


Yeah I'm definitely interested to see how the 33% higher peak window and 66% higher full screen brightness plays out. I always felt games like Cyberpunk looked better on my 27" 4K IPS because it ended up being too dim and losing too much shadow detail on my 77" and also my friend's 48" OLED. Had to artificially alter a lot of the HDR settings to make it perceptually brighter, but then also taking away a bit from that whole dark feel with punchy bright lights feel of the game. Question is whether that was mostly due to the much higher HDR brightness on the PG27UQ with FALD, or simply because of the incredible pixel density of 27" 4K. Although now that I think about it, the PG27UQ also has superior colors to LG's OLED panels due to being Quantum Dot IPS. It'll be interesting to see how the experience compares to both my monitor and my tv.



Section31 said:


> Not bad price. Its so hard to time Rakuten deals. Once in a while i managed to get 10-14% off. Do they let you use the 10% off monitor code. Dell tightened the codes from what i heard.


Yeah I ordered it last night when I posted the links. It wasn't yet listed on the Dell website. When I woke up the next morning people were saying they exempted that code from the AW3423DW. Which makes sense. Why lose $165 on a high demand monitor. Although people were saying you could still do the new sign up 10% discount code to buy it.



KedarWolf said:


> I'm really loving the Samsung Odyssey Neo G9, zero issues with it once I bought a Cable Matters braided HBR3 4K 240Hz DSC cable. The only issue I had on the old DP cable that came with it was I had to have VRR Control On or I'd get the occasional flicker in games. Fixed with the new cable.
> 
> The colours in games and even videos on YouTube etc. is far better than my 49" 3840x1080 Samsung CHG90 144Hz screen I had. I leave HDR on all the time in Windows 11 and no banding at 240Hz and HDR Dynamic with FALD on high and VRR Control off.
> 
> It is the latest revision 952 model though, I think the first revision had issues.
> 
> And it was only $1699.99 Canadian dollars on sale, $800 off.


The problem I have with FALD, is the halo and blooming you get. Most problematic in HDR FPS games that have any sort of crosshair in the center of the screen, that for some reason is set to be lit up very bright. This causes the backlight zone to increase brightness to such a point in dark scenes, that it actually washes out a lot of the detail around the crosshair. The number of zones on the Neo G9 aren't enough to get rid of it. Remember the iPad Pro that came out with 2500 zone FALD in a 12.9" package? Even that wasn't immune to it. It's just a limitation of the technology. And while IPS + Quantum Dot + FALD can look amazing in bright scenes (for example, games like Horizon Zero Dawn look way better on it than on OLED, at least in all the outdoors portions), there are definitely issues and limitations with it.

175Hz OLED will also result in clearer and more responsive motion than 240Hz LCD, but most importantly it does it with a lower GPU power cost. Which is also one of my considerations. Going from my current 4K (8.3MP) monitor to ultra wide 3440x1440 (4.95MP) will result in at least a 67% FPS gain. Or in the case of your 5120x3440 (7.37MP), a 49% increase. From my 4K perspective, at least, it meant that a lot of games that I can only run at around 60FPS would be able to run at 100FPS, and with faster and more responsive OLED. So in terms of perceived smoothness of motion, I should be looking at some substantial.

My biggest worry though, is whether I'll be able to live with the lower PPI. My current monitor has a pixel density of 163 PPI and this new one is just 109 PPI. So the same performance I'm gaining...I'm losing in pixel density. And I'm really hoping that's something that won't bother me too much. But if you're already using a monitor with the same PPI, which is using a VA panel with poor viewing angles and lower color volume, I would highly recommend trying to get one of these monitors if you can flip yours and not take a loss on it. In terms of technical specifications, it's superior to it in every way other than the extended width and max HDR brightness. Just my thoughts, anyway.


----------



## HyperMatrix

ChrisLB said:


> I tried to beat my Port Royal scores I achieved with the Kingpin 3090s and Hydro Copper blocks using my new Optimus blocks. I couldn't beat my previous scores. With 1C chilled water, the Optimus blocks were only 7-8C cooler(max difference) than the Hydro Copper blocks. The 8C Max lower temperature didn't allow me to sustain a higher boost clock long enough to make a difference. I could get the GPU temps down to 1-2C before each benchmark run, but they would hit 19-20C and stay there even with dual(serial) D5 pumps to ensure adequate flow. With the Hydro Copper blocks I could also get the GPUs down to 1-2C before the benchmark, but their peak temperature was about 27C. I was really hoping to sustain at least 15 MHz higher clock speeds through the benchmark run with the Optimus blocks.
> 
> 
> I think that maybe the limit is the voltage that you can safely run without getting the GPUs much colder. In the past, Vince said a max of 1.2v for NVVDD and MSVDD even at 0C. I also tried voltages lower than 1.2v, but that didn't help temperatures or with sustaining clock speeds.
> 
> Also, I'm still convinced that my Gaming X Trio 3090 has a golden GPU. It can sustain 2,325 MHz at stock voltage in some 3DMark benchmarks using chilled water and an EK GPU block.


Those clocks are amazing. And I remember vince saying the 1.2V thing. But I think that's what he considers a safe limit with less than adequate cooling. If I remember correctly from watching Luumi's OC video, he was saying to use higher than 1.2V. The guide itself wasn't very helpful to me. But figured it's worth a watch since he's had the world record OC several times now. You can check it out here:


----------



## arvinz

bearsdidit said:


> Solid temps for my Strix 3090 with a Optimus block:


Looks great! Can't wait to get mine running...hopefully similar temps. Are those max temps from gaming/benching and/or mining?


----------



## bearsdidit

arvinz said:


> Looks great! Can't wait to get mine running...hopefully similar temps. Are those max temps from gaming/benching and/or mining?


Those are temps after two hours of gaming. My mining temps are 30/60ish with water temps around 25c.

I’m very happy with the performance and temps from the Optimus card! The MoRa doesn’t hurt either.


----------



## KedarWolf

My Strix block got shipped today. Never took long at all!!

Order# and order date was:

*ORDER #OP6995 Feb. 22nd.*


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> My Strix block got shipped today. Never took long at all!!
> 
> Order# and order date was:
> 
> *ORDER #OP6995 Feb. 22nd.*


Hopefully they can catch up on orders and focus on improving other end of there business and introduce new products (all that r&d they talk about here)


----------



## chibi

My cold plate has this oily residue from the sticker. What's the best way to clean it off?


----------



## Jsunn

Microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol.


----------



## KedarWolf

Jsunn said:


> Microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol.


A grinding wheel with a coarse grit stone.


----------



## Jsunn

Well, yeah, after the microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol of course.


----------



## ArchStanton

chibi said:


> My cold plate has this oily residue from the sticker. What's the best way to clean it off?











Followed by microfiber (anything lint free, coffee filters work quite well) and 91% Isopropyl.


----------



## Biggu

ArchStanton said:


> View attachment 2551596
> 
> 
> Followed by microfiber (anything lint free, coffee filters work quite well) and 91% Isopropyl.


This for sure. Mine was pretty nasty too after sitting for so long unused.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> My cold plate has this oily residue from the sticker. What's the best way to clean it off?
> 
> View attachment 2551589


That's pretty bad. Mine only has indent marks from overtightening the cpu block tight.


----------



## KedarWolf

Got to love UPS. My Strix water block coming from Chicago to Toronto, in which Toronto is about 500 miles east of Chicago, driving distance.

The package left Chicago, and now is in Kentucky. :/

But I should receive it Monday.


----------



## ciarlatano

KedarWolf said:


> Got to love UPS. My Strix water block coming from Chicago to Toronto, in which Toronto is about 500 miles east of Chicago, driving distance.
> 
> The package left Chicago, and now is in Kentucky. :/
> 
> But I should receive it Monday.


Ha, that's nothing. I have packages ship from the town next to me that go through Kentucky all the time.  

It's UPS' big hub. A great many of their packages are routed through there, and everything that winds up going through any postal service for final delivery is routed through there.


----------



## chibi

Roughed in rad placement last night. Top + front fans are intake, side + rear fans exhaust. This config should get some air flowing over the mobo vrms and ram.

This weekend will be putting the gpu block on and we'll be set to fill. This build is definitely on the tame side compared to my previous ones. I feel that the older I get, the less enthusiastic I am on doing show builds and just want something that's easy to maintain while performing great. I feel this build will accomplish that


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

KedarWolf said:


> Got to love UPS. My Strix water block coming from Chicago to Toronto, in which Toronto is about 500 miles east of Chicago, driving distance.
> 
> The package left Chicago, and now is in Kentucky. :/
> 
> But I should receive it Monday.


I’m in Mississauga and it’s the same always. You’ll be lucky if you get it Monday,it’ll be a left notice how they couldn’t find the entrance or building. I never ever received anything Monday,it’s either Tuesday late or early Wednesday morning


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I’m in Mississauga and it’s the same always. You’ll be lucky if you get it Monday,it’ll be a left notice how they couldn’t find the entrance or building. I never ever received anything Monday,it’s either Tuesday late or early Wednesday morning


Some of the new young people employed scare me, ridiculous requests. Some of them after seeing the stuff i use at work (provided by myself), ask if the company can provide them the same stuff. Of course not happening. Then they switched to can you give me your stuff at low costs if you update or leave the company. Begging gone too far.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Section31 said:


> Some of the new young people employed scare me, ridiculous requests. Some of them after seeing the stuff i use at work (provided by myself), ask if the company can provide them the same stuff. Of course not happening. Then they switched to can you give me your stuff at low costs if you update or leave the company. Begging gone too far.


After reading @Section31 reply to what I wrote I can officially post this image and know that section has one of them! No doubt now…


----------



## arvinz

All these GTA boys here...let's connect  I'm in North York.


----------



## KedarWolf

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I’m in Mississauga and it’s the same always. You’ll be lucky if you get it Monday,it’ll be a left notice how they couldn’t find the entrance or building. I never ever received anything Monday,it’s either Tuesday late or early Wednesday morning


It's coming to my work. And always someone here to receive in business hours. We never have issues with UPS.

I just hope I don't get dinged for a heavy UPS surcharge like they tend to do. Paying the taxes I'm used to.


----------



## Section31

arvinz said:


> All these GTA boys here...let's connect  I'm in North York.


You guys need to add couple more members lol. There ‘s an small group of east coast individuals on reddit that you can guys can actually do bulk purchase from optimus with. They did watercool group orders together. Though some of those members are currently not upgrading atm, keep for future usage.

The west coast group sometimes buy together but generally seperate. However some of us do interact with eachother. I think once the us borders are safe again, we will all have access to pickup from po box/friends and bring up or have friends to bring up. Saves a lot on shipping and sometimes taxes.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

arvinz said:


> All these GTA boys here...let's connect  I'm in North York.


I’m in!


----------



## KedarWolf

arvinz said:


> All these GTA boys here...let's connect  I'm in North York.


Hey, I'm NOT stalking @arvinz , dammit! It's research, merely research.


----------



## chibi

Build complete, leak testing now. I went with thermal putty this time for the gpu. It was a mess to work with, will go back to thermal pads next time imo.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Build complete, leak testing now. I went with thermal putty this time for the gpu. It was a mess to work with, will go back to thermal pads next time imo.
> 
> 
> View attachment 2551728
> 
> View attachment 2551727
> 
> View attachment 2551729


Looking good.


----------



## ArchStanton

@chibi You finished puttying the VRAM, and then said [email protected]^k this s%*t I take it?


----------



## arvinz

Got some good lighting with this shot. One of the last shots before I get some water in it. My OCD kicked in after seeing this photo and noticing the High Flow NEXT display was ever so slightly tilted upward. Dealt with it immediately 

I'll take some better pics once it's all closed up and ready to go.


----------



## Lobstar

Just a heads up. Anyone using the Optimus Foundation AM4 block please use a backplate. Just started getting no CPU found and TPM security errors on my 5950x. I followed the alternate mounting since the hardware provided wouldn't work with the AM4 backplate on the Dark Hero board and none was provided. This is just one year of use.









The CPU boots fine in other motherboards with no errors, all other components are fine.

So, to hopefully prevent this block from killing more boards in the future I've modified a DGZZI backplate to work with the included hardware from Optimus by sanding down posts from a regular backplate. The little legs sit below the surface of the motherboard.









This took me twenty minutes and some sandpaper. I hope Optimus can provide a working solution in the future for such a costly component.


----------



## Sir Beregond

chibi said:


> Build complete, leak testing now. I went with thermal putty this time for the gpu. It was a mess to work with, will go back to thermal pads next time imo.
> 
> 
> View attachment 2551728
> 
> View attachment 2551727
> 
> View attachment 2551729


Looking great. Yeah that thermal putty does not look fun at all to deal with.

What Noctua fans are those? Still trying to figure out what fans I want to get.



Lobstar said:


> Just a heads up. Anyone using the Optimus Foundation AM4 block please use a backplate. Just started getting no CPU found and TPM security errors on my 5950x. I followed the alternate mounting since the hardware provided wouldn't work with the AM4 backplate on the Dark Hero board and none was provided. This is just one year of use.
> View attachment 2551819
> 
> 
> The CPU boots fine in other motherboards with no errors, all other components are fine.
> 
> So, to hopefully prevent this block from killing more boards in the future I've modified a DGZZI backplate to work with the included hardware from Optimus by sanding down posts from a regular backplate. The little legs sit below the surface of the motherboard.
> View attachment 2551818
> 
> 
> This took me twenty minutes and some sandpaper. I hope Optimus can provide a working solution in the future for such a costly component.


I am getting ready to finally build my rig in the next week or two. 5900X, Optimus AM4 block, and an ASUS Dark Hero board. When you say "use a backplate", what do you mean. I don't believe the Optimus block comes with one, so what did you end up using?


----------



## chibi

ArchStanton said:


> @chibi You finished puttying the VRAM, and then said [email protected]^k this s%*t I take it?


^LOL - that obvious huh 



Sir Beregond said:


> Looking great. Yeah that thermal putty does not look fun at all to deal with.
> 
> What Noctua fans are those? Still trying to figure out what fans I want to get.


They're the NF-A12x25 Chromax  








NF-A12x25 PWM chromax.black.swap


Having received more than 100 awards and recommendations from international hardware websites and magazines, Noctua’s flagship model NF-A12x25 has established itself as a true deluxe choice when it comes to premium-quality quiet 120mm fans. Various state-of-the-art technologies and a record...




noctua.at


----------



## ciarlatano

Sir Beregond said:


> What Noctua fans are those? Still trying to figure out what fans I want to get.











NF-A12x25 PWM chromax.black.swap


Having received more than 100 awards and recommendations from international hardware websites and magazines, Noctua’s flagship model NF-A12x25 has established itself as a true deluxe choice when it comes to premium-quality quiet 120mm fans. Various state-of-the-art technologies and a record...




noctua.at


----------



## Sir Beregond

Those actually look like exactly the kind of fan I want. I'll have to do some more research into those. Thanks!


----------



## Lobstar

Sir Beregond said:


> I am getting ready to finally build my rig in the next week or two. 5900X, Optimus AM4 block, and an ASUS Dark Hero board. When you say "use a backplate", what do you mean. I don't believe the Optimus block comes with one, so what did you end up using?


I got this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084GQFFBY then I peeled the gasket and sanded it with 360 grit sandpaper until all the posts were able to be recessed in the exist holes. I'm not sure if this is the best solution but it's cheap and available to me.

Edit: I should note that the stamped steel backplate that comes with the motherboard might work for you but mine would not hold any finger torque on the included crew posts. This linked backplate has nutserts with threading for a much better hold.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Lobstar said:


> I got this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084GQFFBY then I peeled the gasket and sanded it with 360 grit sandpaper until all the posts were able to be recessed in the exist holes. I'm not sure if this is the best solution but it's cheap and available to me.
> 
> Edit: I should note that the stamped steel backplate that comes with the motherboard might work for you but mine would not hold any finger torque on the included crew posts. This linked backplate has nutserts with threading for a much better hold.


Cool, will see how it goes and take it from there. Thanks for the info.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Don’t motherboards come with backplates already? 
The X570 Xtreme came with one and I’ve never thought when I bought the CPU block from OPTIMUS for my 5900x that I would need to fiddle around with stuff. Maybe I’m out of stuff but don’t mobo manufacturers already include a backplate or is it OPTIMUS block that won’t fit the backplates.


----------



## Sir Beregond

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Don’t motherboards come with backplates already?
> The X570 Xtreme came with one and I’ve never thought when I bought the CPU block from OPTIMUS for my 5900x that I would need to fiddle around with stuff. Maybe I’m out of stuff but don’t mobo manufacturers already include a backplate or is it OPTIMUS block that won’t fit the backplates.


Pretty sure the AMD boards already have back plates.


----------



## chibi

Results are in. Stock CPU and GPU for now. All I did was increase the power limit on the GPU.

I'd say the temps are inline with my expectations for running quiet fan speeds.

*Idle*









*Load - Port Royal*


----------



## ArchStanton

Lobstar said:


> I followed the alternate mounting since the hardware provided wouldn't work with the AM4 backplate on the Dark Hero board and none was provided. This is just one year of use.


Per the OP, there is some issue with compatibility


----------



## Lobstar

Sir Beregond said:


> Pretty sure the AMD boards already have back plates.





ArchStanton said:


> Per the OP, there is some issue with compatibility


If you can get the screw posts to seat in the backplate you get with your motherboard, cool. I haven't had luck with either of the ones provided by Asus for the C8DH or the C8H. I found a set of hardware that kind of works on my server with the provided backplate but I can't get any sort of clamping pressure with it


----------



## LiquidHaus

chibi said:


> I went with thermal putty this time for the gpu. It was a mess to work with, will go back to thermal pads next time imo.
> 
> 
> View attachment 2551729



So I'll be honest and admit that I've never dealt with thermal putty. This looks ridiculous hahaha, how's the performance doing?


----------



## criskoe

chibi said:


> Build complete, leak testing now. I went with thermal putty this time for the gpu. It was a mess to work with, will go back to thermal pads next time imo.


I'm curious as well as to why you went this route? Just didn't have any thermal pads? 

What is this? K5 Pro?


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Wow,everyone is pushing @chibi to explain in plain English the thought process in his brain to why he thought using that Thermal Putty was better then normal Thermal Pads???

@chibi has some serious explaining to do here!


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> So I'll be honest and admit that I've never dealt with thermal putty. This looks ridiculous hahaha, how's the performance doing?


I never got why evga put thermalputty on there ftw3 cards. I remember spending long time cleaning that stuff before installing the optimus block on.

Though if i ever do maintenance on my strix block, it did cross my mind about trying. The strix ones instructions has less thermal pads than the ftw3.

Wonder if it truly makes an difference. Compared to the ftw3, i always noticed the memory for strix hits 70degrees. From my recollection, the ftw3 temps on memory were lower. Something i will explore whenever i do maintenance sometime next year.


----------



## dng25

Section31 said:


> I never got why evga put thermalputty on there ftw3 cards. I remember spending long time cleaning that stuff before installing the optimus block on.
> 
> Though if i ever do maintenance on my strix block, it did cross my mind about trying. The strix ones instructions has less thermal pads than the ftw3.
> 
> Wonder if it truly makes an difference. Compared to the ftw3, i always noticed the memory for strix hits 70degrees. From my recollection, the ftw3 temps on memory were lower. Something i will explore whenever i do maintenance sometime next year.


evga's hc for their kingpin uses thermal putty. That was one of the reason why I didn't bother using their block.


----------



## chibi

LiquidHaus said:


> So I'll be honest and admit that I've never dealt with thermal putty. This looks ridiculous hahaha, how's the performance doing?


Performance is pretty good, after doing a couple of Port Royal runs, my memory is 46 degrees. GPU Hotspot Junction 45 Degrees. Mind you my card is a Ti model so only front set of memory modules. Application is kind of tricky. It's easier to mold into balls when your finger tips are cold. You can do 1-2 balls before your finger warmth makes it too sticky. Once putty on your fingers get too warm, it makes it tacky and you cannot form balls until you scrape it off. Keep the putty container in a cool area before use.

I got impatient after doing the memory. For the VRM and inductors, I just slapped that putty in there thicc and let the cold plate do it's thing and spread it out.



criskoe said:


> I'm curious as well as to why you went this route? Just didn't have any thermal pads?
> 
> What is this? K5 Pro?


Performance is supposedly higher than thermal pads. It's rated at 10.00 W/m-K. The benefit to putty is that it's very malleable. Any excess putty will help to conform around the memory/vrm modules and theoretically help with greater surface area for heat transfer.

A secondary benefit, which may be placebo, is that it covers the inductors very well. This may help with noisy coil whine cards. Luckily my FTW3 did not coil whine with the air cooler so I cannot say for sure. My previous two ASUS cards sang with the slightest 3D load. Would be great test candidates but I sold them before I learned of this putty.

You can find it in stock now at Digikey. 50g container is more than enough for one card. I applied it to memory, vrm and inductors, and about 70% left over.






TG-PP10-50 t-Global Technology | Fans, Thermal Management | DigiKey


Order today, ships today. TG-PP10-50 – Thermal Silicone Putty 50 gram Container from t-Global Technology. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.




www.digikey.ca







ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Wow,everyone is pushing @chibi to explain in plain English the thought process in his brain to why he thought using that Thermal Putty was better then normal Thermal Pads???
> 
> @chibi has some serious explaining to do here!


^See above comments my friend  TLR, theoretically higher performance, wanted to try something new. Would I do it again? Maybe, maybe not 


Feedback on High Flow 2 - mine is a ticker. Anything past 75% PWM on my D5 results in the ticks. Unfortunately, 75% PWM correlates to 3,400 rpm and 0.6 gpm / 135 lph which sucks.


----------



## HyperMatrix

chibi said:


> Performance is supposedly higher than thermal pads. It's rated at 10.00 W/m-K. The benefit to putty is that it's very malleable. Any excess putty will help to conform around the memory/vrm modules and theoretically help with greater surface area for heat transfer.


Well I mean the thermal conductivity ratings are something I’ve learned to never believe. But there’s something that I can’t get over with regard to thermal putty. As it’s a lot less dense than thermal pads…and with “good solid contact/pressure” being important for thermal transfer. How does a light airy putty work on high performance parts?


----------



## GLuE

Is this curve suppose to be there? Optimus Kingpin backplate.


----------



## ArchStanton

GLuE said:


> Is this curve suppose to be there?


My *GUESS *is yes. For a similar reason to why these are curved prior to being loaded to capacity, but I will be interested in what a more informed party has to say.


----------



## criskoe

chibi said:


> Performance is pretty good, after doing a couple of Port Royal runs, my memory is 46 degrees. GPU Hotspot Junction 45 Degrees. Mind you my card is a Ti model so only front set of memory modules. Application is kind of tricky. It's easier to mold into balls when your finger tips are cold. You can do 1-2 balls before your finger warmth makes it too sticky. Once putty on your fingers get too warm, it makes it tacky and you cannot form balls until you scrape it off. Keep the putty container in a cool area before use.
> 
> I got impatient after doing the memory. For the VRM and inductors, I just slapped that putty in there thicc and let the cold plate do it's thing and spread it out.
> 
> 
> 
> Performance is supposedly higher than thermal pads. It's rated at 10.00 W/m-K. The benefit to putty is that it's very malleable. Any excess putty will help to conform around the memory/vrm modules and theoretically help with greater surface area for heat transfer.
> 
> A secondary benefit, which may be placebo, is that it covers the inductors very well. This may help with noisy coil whine cards. Luckily my FTW3 did not coil whine with the air cooler so I cannot say for sure. My previous two ASUS cards sang with the slightest 3D load. Would be great test candidates but I sold them before I learned of this putty.
> 
> You can find it in stock now at Digikey. 50g container is more than enough for one card. I applied it to memory, vrm and inductors, and about 70% left over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TG-PP10-50 t-Global Technology | Fans, Thermal Management | DigiKey
> 
> 
> Order today, ships today. TG-PP10-50 – Thermal Silicone Putty 50 gram Container from t-Global Technology. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.digikey.ca
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^See above comments my friend  TLR, theoretically higher performance, wanted to try something new. Would I do it again? Maybe, maybe not
> 
> 
> Feedback on High Flow 2 - mine is a ticker. Anything past 75% PWM on my D5 results in the ticks. Unfortunately, 75% PWM correlates to 3,400 rpm and 0.6 gpm / 135 lph which sucks.



Nice I see. My temps are pretty similar with my TI as well.. But im using a 2mm fuji pad on the coils.

Few questions.. For those temps you posted above, Is your Ti stocks clocks? How are your PWR temps? Also What is your coolant temp, fan and pump speeds for those values? Lastly what score does your Ti do? 

Sorry for the 20 questions. lol... Just curious.

5 Consecutive Port Royal Runs. Max Fans and Pump. 27c Max Coolant Temp. PR Score 14783


----------



## criskoe

chibi said:


> Feedback on High Flow 2 - mine is a ticker. Anything past 75% PWM on my D5 results in the ticks. Unfortunately, 75% PWM correlates to 3,400 rpm and 0.6 gpm / 135 lph which sucks.


Ive read that keeping your flow meter flat with the logo plate facing up can help with the ticking. How you have the thing now has the impeller inside in a vertical orientation. You want it horizontal. Might want to try to rotate it 90 degrees. It should help..


----------



## KedarWolf

The UPS International shipping to Canada was good, only $35 duty. I expected it to be a lot more.

My Strix block is supposed to arrive today.


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> The UPS International shipping to Canada was good, only $35 duty. I expected it to be a lot more.
> 
> My Strix block is supposed to arrive today.


Not bad.


----------



## KedarWolf

Section31 said:


> Not bad.


I paid the duty online. Doesn't update. Guy sees the duty isn't paid, doesn't even try to deliver it, just leaves without trying to get a payment.

I should have called UPS after I paid, made sure they knew it was paid. Lesson learned.

They're going to deliver it tomorrow.


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> I paid the duty online. Doesn't update. Guy sees the duty isn't paid, doesn't even try to deliver it, just leaves without trying to get a payment.
> 
> I should have called UPS after I paid, made sure they knew it was paid. Lesson learned.
> 
> They're going to deliver it tomorrow.


Timing issues. It takes time to register in there system. Enjoy the experience tomorrow. Keep the email they send to you saying you paid as proof of receipt.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

KedarWolf said:


> I paid the duty online. Doesn't update. Guy sees the duty isn't paid, doesn't even try to deliver it, just leaves without trying to get a payment.
> 
> I should have called UPS after I paid, made sure they knew it was paid. Lesson learned.
> 
> They're going to deliver it tomorrow.


Haha…but not at it not being delivered but at UPS! The same ****ing bs every single time,they didn’t even try to deliver it. The system updates for them immediately,call in and after they’ll tell you they can see it’s paid but don’t know why it wasn’t delivered.
I told you it won’t be delivered today but…

This is what I do,if you are ok with being passive aggressive they’ll deliver today.
Call in and tell them to F…off with this bs every single time. Don’t be “Please guys,I’m so excited for this package etc etc..can you please please try to deliver it today?”
NEVER EVER USE PLEASE,this isn’t the time to be a pu$%y and bend down.
Call in and be aggressive,don’t let them push you around,it’s 12pm here in the GTA and they have till 8pm to deliver. Last 5 times I yelled at them and was F…off and magically after 1-3h my package was thrown at my front door???
Man up and call them,it’s your f…ing money and you paid duties,don’t let them push you around! Up to you how bad you want it,but you paid so don’t settle with tmr,wednesday or whenever.


----------



## chibi

criskoe said:


> Nice I see. My temps are pretty similar with my TI as well.. But im using a 2mm fuji pad on the coils.
> 
> Few questions.. For those temps you posted above, Is your Ti stocks clocks? How are your PWR temps? Also What is your coolant temp, fan and pump speeds for those values? Lastly what score does your Ti do?
> 
> Sorry for the 20 questions. lol... Just curious.
> 
> 5 Consecutive Port Royal Runs. Max Fans and Pump. 27c Max Coolant Temp. PR Score 14783
> 
> Ive read that keeping your flow meter flat with the logo plate facing up can help with the ticking. How you have the thing now has the impeller inside in a vertical orientation. You want it horizontal. Might want to try to rotate it 90 degrees. It should help..


My Ti and cpu are stock for now. Below screen should have most of the info you requested. This was on 3rd run of Port Royal with a short delay in between runs to log the data. Idle was 24 degrees ambient air before the load raised it to 26.

Front, side top are all 120.3 fan configs with respective pwm duty/rpm noted.
Top 360 rad intake
Side 360 rad exhaust










Good to know about the flow meter. I'll drain when I have some off time and adjust the fittings. Not sure I can get it sideways as it's 1 mm away from the glass panel right now. Side note about the 5000D Airflow panel, it's tinted dark AF. I can't see any components inside it except for my ram due to the leds. I might have to rig up some lights to get any type of visual. Mainly to check reservoir water levels quickly.


----------



## chibi

Here's my filter after running it for about 2 months before utilizing the rads. Looks yummy  

If switching the orientation of the high flow 2 doesn't help, I may swap it out with an MPS 400. Those in the past have been silent for me.


----------



## JKurz

Thinking Ill have the 4090 before my KP block gets here.


----------



## criskoe

chibi said:


> My Ti and cpu are stock for now. Below screen should have most of the info you requested. This was on 3rd run of Port Royal with a short delay in between runs to log the data. Idle was 24 degrees ambient air before the load raised it to 26.
> 
> Front, side top are all 120.3 fan configs with respective pwm duty/rpm noted.
> Top 360 rad intake
> Side 360 rad exhaust
> 
> Good to know about the flow meter. I'll drain when I have some off time and adjust the fittings. Not sure I can get it sideways as it's 1 mm away from the glass panel right now. Side note about the 5000D Airflow panel, it's tinted dark AF. I can't see any components inside it except for my ram due to the leds. I might have to rig up some lights to get any type of visual. Mainly to check reservoir water levels quickly.


Cool thanks for posting the values. 

Yeah I wondered from the previous pictures you posted of the flow sensor. It does look really close to the side panel. You'll prolly have to adjust that tube run some how. Its totally worth a try tho as the manual even says this will help mitigate noise. Good luck!


----------



## KedarWolf

Any advice on how to apply thermal putty for an Optimus water block?

Like should I do the thermal putty on everything like the black outlined below?

Or the thermal pads on the memory modules and putty on the rest?

I want the extra coverage even though they say it's not necessary.

I'm going to make sure the putty is cold and I'm wearing surgical non-coated rubber gloves.


----------



## arvinz

KedarWolf said:


> Any advice on how to apply thermal putty for an Optimus water block?
> 
> Like should I do the thermal putty on everything like the black outlined below?
> 
> Or the thermal pads on the memory modules and putty on the rest?
> 
> I want the extra coverage even though they say it's not necessary.
> 
> I'm going to make sure the putty is cold and I'm wearing surgical non-coated rubber gloves.


Here's how I did mine, so far temps are amazing:


----------



## arvinz

Don't apply anything near the connectors like in that EK diagram as it will be visible and won't really make much of a difference:


----------



## KedarWolf

arvinz said:


> Here's how I did mine, so far temps are amazing:
> View attachment 2552115


Would it be a good idea to swap out the stock pads for GELID Extreme 12W/mK pads? They are very soft, I should still get decent die contact.


----------



## arvinz

KedarWolf said:


> Would it be a good idea to swap out the stock pads for GELID Extreme 12W/mK pads? They are very soft, I should still get decent die contact.


I also considered doing that but I just stuck with the stock ones that came with it. I suppose it should be just as good to use them? Obviously just as long as it's the same thickness.

Here's a quick reference guide on pad sizes I created when I was getting mine ready. Used a digital caliper to measure:


----------



## KedarWolf

arvinz said:


> Don't apply anything near the connectors like in that EK diagram as it will be visible and won't really make much of a difference:
> 
> View attachment 2552116


Yes, I know.


----------



## KedarWolf

arvinz said:


> I also considered doing that but I just stuck with the stock ones that came with it. I suppose it should be just as good to use them? Obviously just as long as it's the same thickness.
> 
> Here's a quick reference guide on pad sizes I created when I was getting mine ready. Used a digital caliper to measure:
> View attachment 2552117


The Optimus block uses 0.5mm pads.


----------



## arvinz

KedarWolf said:


> The Optimus block uses 0.5mm pads.


Yep, sorry you're right. That diagram was for stock pads. I think you're fine with the Gelid ones...it's going to rock either way


----------



## acoustic

Thickness obviously matters for matching thermal pads, but keep in mind some of the higher Wk pads will not squish down as easily and can cause just as much problem as a thicker pad.

I used the stock EK pads on my 3080TI block and it came out excellent. Temps are perfect.


----------



## KedarWolf

acoustic said:


> Thickness obviously matters for matching thermal pads, but keep in mind some of the higher Wk pads will not squish down as easily and can cause just as much problem as a thicker pad.
> 
> I used the stock EK pads on my 3080TI block and it came out excellent. Temps are perfect.


Yeah, that's why I'm using the GELID Extreme, not the Ultimate. The Extreme are extremely squishy, the Ultimate hard and don't compress much at all.


----------



## StAndrew

I posted this in the other Optimus thread but thought I bring it up here as well; curious what the reply would be:

So just got my Signature block. A bit disappointed...

First, for the price and no fittings included was kind of a surprise. Not a big issue as I'm sure most people use compression fittings but... its a lot of money to not have fittings.

Second, the BIG issue is the design. The intake port threading wasn't well designed IMHO. A deep threaded fitting will block most of the intake channel and really kill your entire loop flow rate. In the Techpowerup review (IIRC), the Optimus scored VERY low on flow rate which I thought was weird given the microchannels should flow pretty close to some of the EK blocks. I wonder how deep the threads were on those fittings...

If you don't know what you're doing, and pick out a proper fitting with a shallow thread, you're going to be very disappointed in a very expensive block. For all the talk Optimus makes, this is a stupid oversight I think. At the very least, they should address this in their post card "instructions" and suggest proper thread depths on their intake fitting.


----------



## dwolvin

How deep is the well? That's a definitely a problem if it's easy to fill half the channel with fitting threads...


----------



## StAndrew

dwolvin said:


> How deep is the well? That's a definitely a problem if it's easy to fill half the channel with fitting threads...


Not so shallow that a typical fitting will block the entire channel but at least half if not more. Even the most shallow threaded fitting will block some of the channel. Its pretty shallow. 

I'm guessing the spacing is to allow compression fittings? Heatkiller IV Pro has the intake properly centered and can still mount compression fittings. If I could find a Heatkiller LGA1700 mounting kit, I'd send this overpriced, overhyped block back.

Also, looking inside they didn't clean up the machine work very well so I'm going to have to take it apart and clean it up...


----------



## criskoe

Signature Block???? Those picture look like a foundation block not a signature. ???

As for including fittings.. Is there actually any manufacture that includes fittings with their block?? I dont know but its pretty clear in the product description that it doesn't come with fittings.

As for the flow rate. I experienced a little flow hit going from a EK Magnitude and a EK GPU block to a Optimus foundation and a Optimus FTW GPU block. Everything else stayed the same. Rads, fittings, Single d5 pump and same tube runs. Just a plain block swap. Went from 284 LPH to 244 LPH. So a cost of 40LPH.. Definitely not killing the flow rate for me...

What length is considered a "Deep" thread on a fitting? 

CPU blocks these days are so close in performance anyways. That it really doesn't matter. Its like a difference between less then a degree with most blocks. Which in my opinion is basically margin of error.


----------



## Biggu

criskoe said:


> Signature Block???? Those picture look like a foundation block not a signature. ???
> 
> As for including fittings.. Is there actually any manufacture that includes fittings with their block?? I dont know but its pretty clear in the product description that it doesn't come with fittings.
> 
> As for the flow rate. I experienced a little flow hit going from a EK Magnitude and a EK GPU block to a Optimus foundation and a Optimus FTW GPU block. Everything else stayed the same. Rads, fittings, Single d5 pump and same tube runs. Just a plain block swap. Went from 284 LPH to 244 LPH. So a cost of 40LPH.. Definitely not killing the flow rate for me...
> 
> What length is considered a "Deep" thread on a fitting?
> 
> CPU blocks these days are so close in performance anyways. That it really doesn't matter. Its like a difference between less then a degree with most blocks. Which in my opinion is basically margin of error.


I thought the same thing on the fittings, I dont know of any block that comes with a fitting. As far as the threads I dont think there is much concern, the smaller the opening will create higher pressure on the other side which is probably what they want over the micro fins. I measured all of my fittings and checked it to a spare signature v2 that I have and there is more than enough opening for water flow.


----------



## KedarWolf

Got my Strix block yesterday, the thermal putty from Digikey today and Amazon is supposed to deliver my 0.5mm GELID Extreme pads today.

I might wait until tomorrow to install the block though, I have Friday, Saturday and Sunday off work. 

Oh, Digikey used FedEx and only took a couple of days to ship. And shipping for a 50g pot was $8 CAD.


----------



## chibi

Digikey is legit with shipping costs and speed. One of the better ones in the business


----------



## StAndrew

criskoe said:


> Signature Block???? Those picture look like a foundation block not a signature. ???
> 
> As for including fittings.. Is there actually any manufacture that includes fittings with their block?? I dont know but its pretty clear in the product description that it doesn't come with fittings.
> 
> As for the flow rate. I experienced a little flow hit going from a EK Magnitude and a EK GPU block to a Optimus foundation and a Optimus FTW GPU block. Everything else stayed the same. Rads, fittings, Single d5 pump and same tube runs. Just a plain block swap. Went from 284 LPH to 244 LPH. So a cost of 40LPH.. Definitely not killing the flow rate for me...
> 
> What length is considered a "Deep" thread on a fitting?
> 
> CPU blocks these days are so close in performance anyways. That it really doesn't matter. Its like a difference between less then a degree with most blocks. Which in my opinion is basically margin of error.





Biggu said:


> I thought the same thing on the fittings, I dont know of any block that comes with a fitting. As far as the threads I dont think there is much concern, the smaller the opening will create higher pressure on the other side which is probably what they want over the micro fins. I measured all of my fittings and checked it to a spare signature v2 that I have and there is more than enough opening for water flow.


Yes, Foundation, my mistake. I've been a long time buyer of Swiftech and they've always included fittings. But now that I think of it, the Heatkiller Pro didnt have fittings but it was also less than $90... Either way, I'll concede this is a small issue.

As far as flow rate, Techpower up had the Optimus Foundation more than twice as restrictive vs the EK Supremacy Classic:

Optimus Foundation CPU Block (Intel) Review - Liquid Flow Restriction | TechPowerUp

Optimus Signature V2 (same design flaw btw):
Optimus Signature V2 CPU Block Review - Liquid Flow Restriction | TechPowerUp

How much of this is in the cold plate fins and how much of this is from the fitting they used?

I have a number of older fittings that, I estimate, would cut into at least half of the intake port. I need to remove the top and clean up the sloppy machining so I'll try to get a picture from the inside on intake port with some of the fittings I have and see if I can capture how much of the intake is actually blocked.

And honestly, I can admit to raising hell over spilt milk but I would at least like to see Optimus, in their instruction card they include, provide a recommended thread pitch for fittings as different fittings can very much affect flow performance on your loop by (I would guess) over %50 increase in flow resistance depending on the fitting.


----------



## bearsdidit

StAndrew said:


> Yes, Foundation, my mistake. I've been a long time buyer of Swiftech and they've always included fittings. But now that I think of it, the Heatkiller Pro didnt have fittings but it was also less than $90... Either way, I'll concede this is a small issue.
> 
> As far as flow rate, Techpower up had the Optimus Foundation more than twice as restrictive vs the EK Supremacy Classic:
> 
> Optimus Foundation CPU Block (Intel) Review - Liquid Flow Restriction | TechPowerUp
> 
> Optimus Signature V2 (same design flaw btw):
> Optimus Signature V2 CPU Block Review - Liquid Flow Restriction | TechPowerUp
> 
> How much of this is in the cold plate fins and how much of this is from the fitting they used?
> 
> I have a number of older fittings that, I estimate, would cut into at least half of the intake port. I need to remove the top and clean up the sloppy machining so I'll try to get a picture from the inside on intake port with some of the fittings I have and see if I can capture how much of the intake is actually blocked.
> 
> *And honestly, I can admit to raising hell over spilt milk but I would at least like to see Optimus, in their instruction card they include, provide a recommended thread pitch for fittings as different fittings can very much affect flow performance on your loop by (I would guess) over %50 increase in flow resistance depending on the fitting.*


How many other companies offer the same data?

Have you tested the difference in flow rate with various fittings? Perhaps the difference is negligible? 

I can't believe that Optimus did not recognize this potential issue while in development. If it's a matter of adding some additional height to the block, there must be a reason why they didn't make the design change.


----------



## criskoe

StAndrew said:


> Yes, Foundation, my mistake. I've been a long time buyer of Swiftech and they've always included fittings. But now that I think of it, the Heatkiller Pro didnt have fittings but it was also less than $90... Either way, I'll concede this is a small issue.
> 
> As far as flow rate, Techpower up had the Optimus Foundation more than twice as restrictive vs the EK Supremacy Classic:
> 
> Optimus Foundation CPU Block (Intel) Review - Liquid Flow Restriction | TechPowerUp
> 
> Optimus Signature V2 (same design flaw btw):
> Optimus Signature V2 CPU Block Review - Liquid Flow Restriction | TechPowerUp
> 
> How much of this is in the cold plate fins and how much of this is from the fitting they used?
> 
> I have a number of older fittings that, I estimate, would cut into at least half of the intake port. I need to remove the top and clean up the sloppy machining so I'll try to get a picture from the inside on intake port with some of the fittings I have and see if I can capture how much of the intake is actually blocked.
> 
> And honestly, I can admit to raising hell over spilt milk but I would at least like to see Optimus, in their instruction card they include, provide a recommended thread pitch for fittings as different fittings can very much affect flow performance on your loop by (I would guess) over %50 increase in flow resistance depending on the fitting.


Im pretty sure the flow diffence has to do with cold plate fins More then anything else. The tiny channels are much much smaller Then the supremacy and many other blocks. EK actually talked About this when they were talking about their RnD for their magnitude block. They talked about other blocks with very dense and tiny fins and they found that while it provided great performance, it hindered the flow by adding restriction from this. They decided to not go so tiny with their fin channels and balance flow with performance so the block would still preform well with simple single pump systems. The EK engineer who worked on designing the magnitude mentioned this in one of their videos some where. Forget where it was. Like one of their deep dive Expo videos a while ago when the magnitude was being released.

With that said I don’t think the optimus port thing is causing any issues or a cause for concern. You are the first person I’ve ever seen even talk about it. And those blocks have been out for a LONG time. I really doubt that it’s causing upto 50 percent flow restriction. Unless your using some super old freak abnormal fitting with a 7mm plus thread length. The majority of fittings you can buy today are between 4.5mm-5mm Thread length which is absolutely fine on these blocks. 

Also Optimus products aren’t cheap. Period. That’s another given. Nothing they sell would be considered “competitively priced” lol. These are not value products for sure. And like every product. There is always the argument as to if it’s worth it or not which of course is up to the buyer. 

End of the day. Cpu blocks are so close in performance that all this doesn’t even matter. And I’d bet if you reached out to optimus they would accept a return for refund if your not happy with your purchase. I’ve seen them offer that to people many times.


----------



## StAndrew

bearsdidit said:


> How many other companies offer the same data?
> 
> Have you tested the difference in flow rate with various fittings? Perhaps the difference is negligible?
> 
> I can't believe that Optimus did not recognize this potential issue while in development. If it's a matter of adding some additional height to the block, there must be a reason why they didn't make the design change.





criskoe said:


> Im pretty sure the flow diffence has to do with cold plate fins More then anything else. The tiny channels are much much smaller Then the supremacy and many other blocks. EK actually talked About this when they were talking about their RnD for their magnitude block. They talked about other blocks with very dense and tiny fins and they found that while it provided great performance, it hindered the flow by adding restriction from this. They decided to not go so tiny with their fin channels and balance flow with performance so the block would still preform well with simple single pump systems. The EK engineer who worked on designing the magnitude mentioned this in one of their videos some where. Forget where it was. Like one of their deep dive Expo videos a while ago when the magnitude was being released.
> 
> With that said I don’t think the optimus port thing is causing any issues or a cause for concern. You are the first person I’ve ever seen even talk about it. And those blocks have been out for a LONG time. I really doubt that it’s causing upto 50 percent flow restriction. Unless your using some super old freak abnormal fitting with a 7mm plus thread length. The majority of fittings you can buy today are between 4.5mm-5mm Thread length which is absolutely fine on these blocks.
> 
> End of the day. Optimus products aren’t cheap. Period. That’s another given. Nothing they sell would be considered “competitively priced” lol.
> 
> End of the day. Cpu blocks are so close in performance that all this doesn’t even matter. And I’d bet if you reached out to optimus they would accept a return for refund if your not happy with your purchase. I’ve seen them offer that to people many times.


I don't disagree and with the fittings I have, I don't think I'll have any adverse issues but if someone didn't know better, they could really screw themselves. It was just a shock to see such an oversight and nothing on their instructions to address it. 

I havent done any testing as I've only had it in my hand for about 5 minutes. Tonight I plan to disassemble and make sure its all cleaned up. I'll try to get some pictures of some of the fittings I have and see if I can capture how much of the flow channel is blocked.


----------



## ciarlatano

StAndrew said:


> Yes, Foundation, my mistake. I've been a long time buyer of Swiftech and they've always included fittings. But now that I think of it, the Heatkiller Pro didnt have fittings but it was also less than $90... Either way, I'll concede this is a small issue.


I'm guessing you haven't purchased a block in quite some time. Going back to the Apogee XL from 2014, Swiftech has not included any fittings with blocks.


----------



## StAndrew

ciarlatano said:


> I'm guessing you haven't purchased a block in quite some time. Going back to the Apogee XL from 2014, Swiftech has not included any fittings with blocks.


Its been a while...  But as alluded to, while a gripe, its a small one. 

The design of the input still has me scratching my head though. And looking at how it terminates into a flat wall, I don't think anyone thought this through very well unless its a CNC capability shortfall. I really wish I jumped off the hype train long enough to research this block before buying but I figured, given the price (and popularity), any glaring issues would have been discovered by now.

From Techpowerup, these fittings were supplied by Optimus and are about the same thread depth as the fittings I plan to use. As you can see, there is some overlap (red) but I think this would be negligible as far as performance is concerned. However, deeper thread depths will really start impacting performance. 

Of note, looking at the jet channel, there is a lip as this channel extends higher than the intake flow channel which isn't ideal (orange). While I'm nitpicking, the jet channel should also flare downward, a least a few degrees to help with universal flow through the cold plate.

I would love to see the fluid flow model for this block; its probably chaotic to say the least and not at all ideal.


----------



## ArchStanton

StAndrew said:


> I would love to see the fluid flow model for this block; its probably chaotic to say the least and not at all ideal.


If fluid *flow* was our #1 priority I would be in 100% agreement, but for this application, I presume we would all place *energy transfer/unit time *at a higher priority than just flow. Fluid mechanics is a calculous intensive branch of engineering, and combining thermodynamics with fluid mechanics is even more complicated. I am genuinely curious about whether the orange lip is intentional or an oversight, and whether it's presence is a net benefit or detriment. Is it a happy accident that results in greater performance due to the additional turbidity allowing more heat to be transferred from the channels to the fluid (given sufficient pressure from the pump(s) upstream to maintain a high flow rate) or just a "defect" this premium product shouldn't exhibit? You may be in a position to say with certainty, and if so, I would be eager for you to explain in greater detail, but I assure you I am not .

Regardless, I am in agreement that a fitting with a long threaded neck is not going to work well with this block .


----------



## StAndrew

ArchStanton said:


> If fluid *flow* was our #1 priority I would be in 100% agreement, but for this application, I presume we would all place *energy transfer/unit time *at a higher priority than just flow. Fluid mechanics is a calculous intensive branch of engineering, and combining thermodynamics with fluid mechanics is even more complicated. I am genuinely curious about whether the orange lip is intentional or an oversight, and whether it's presence is a net benefit or detriment. Is it a happy accident that results in greater performance due to the additional turbidity allowing more heat to be transferred from the channels to the fluid (given sufficient pressure from the pump(s) upstream to maintain a high flow rate) or just a "defect" this premium product shouldn't exhibit? You may be in a position to say with certainty, and if so, I would be eager for you to explain in greater detail, but I assure you I am not .
> 
> Regardless, I am in agreement that a fitting with a long threaded neck is not going to work well with this block .


I wouldn't be surprised if Optimus decided to keep it simple and cut costs as any flow improvements would have been negligible due to the density of the fins? They still need to highlight the thread depth issue on the installation card though.

Inducing turbidity might help, interesting theory 

Just boggles my mind; the cold plate is great, they certainly know how to CNC some very fine channels. Now they just need to hire someone to help them with fluid dynamics. The top looks like they called AliExpress and ordered a McDonalds [email protected]


----------



## ArchStanton

StAndrew said:


> they called AliExpress and ordered a McDonalds [email protected]


_That _nearly made me choke on my Copenhagen 🤣


----------



## ChrisLB

JKurz said:


> Thinking Ill have the 4090 before my KP block gets here.


Considering that Optimus isn't even finished shipping out launch day pre orders, I may agree with you if you didn't order ont he first day of availability. Going by what others have said elsewhere, Optimus is now starting to ship the afternoon orders of the first day of pre order availability.


----------



## StAndrew

The 45* fitting is what I'm planning on using. I grabbed a couple of random fittings. Looks like another mm of blockage for a 'standard' depth fitting.









But here is something that made me laugh, at the bottom of the intake port, before it reaches the jet, there is a 45* ramp/lip at the bottom...  










This is why we need people like Martin and Skinee back in the community; to help manufactures understand waterblocks design. Sure, by CNC brute force, they can make a waterblock perform well but there is a lot more to a waterblock than just the fins. They realy need to go back to the drawing boards on the block top and find a better flow design...

I'm pretty sure I'm returning this block


----------



## Section31

StAndrew said:


> The 45* fitting is what I'm planning on using. I grabbed a couple of random fittings. Looks like another mm of blockage for a 'standard' depth fitting.
> View attachment 2552352
> 
> 
> But here is something that made me laugh, at the bottom of the intake port, before it reaches the jet, there is a 45* ramp/lip at the bottom...
> 
> View attachment 2552357
> 
> 
> This is why we need people like Martin and Skinee back in the community; to help manufactures understand waterblocks design. Sure, by CNC brute force, they can make a waterblock perform well but there is a lot more to a waterblock than just the fins. They realy need to go back to the drawing boards on the block top and find a better flow design...
> 
> I'm pretty sure I'm returning this block


Great research. I think they need to hire you so there next block will even better. 

The feeling i am getting is watercooling is kind of dead for me. Marginal gains for massive costs. Shifting life priorities forcing the issue. 

I will keep my existing rig and continue improving aspects of it (mainly improving the caselabs case). However, rebuilding it could get further delayed tbh (maybe 2026 even).


----------



## bearsdidit

Section31 said:


> Great research. I think they need to hire you so there next block will even better.
> 
> The feeling i am getting is watercooling is kind of dead for me. Marginal gains for massive costs. Shifting life priorities forcing the issue.
> 
> I will keep my existing rig and continue improving aspects of it (mainly improving the caselabs case). However, rebuilding it could get further delayed tbh (maybe 2026 even).


It’s literally the definition of insanity.


----------



## StAndrew

Section31 said:


> Great research. I think they need to hire you so there next block will even better.
> 
> The feeling i am getting is watercooling is kind of dead for me. Marginal gains for massive costs. Shifting life priorities forcing the issue.
> 
> I will keep my existing rig and continue improving aspects of it (mainly improving the caselabs case). However, rebuilding it could get further delayed tbh (maybe 2026 even).


I love the quiet and its a fun hobby for me but lately it's been morphing into an RGB puke fest (along with much of the rest of the PC industry). I miss the days when companies tried very hard to make a functional product which is why I bought this block; I really like the idea of the company Optimus but man, this block is just a bumble f4ck (IMHO).

I would also like to see them decrease the fin density of the waterblock and offset the reduced surface area with a thicker base that allows deeper channels. With a properly centered intake port and well-designed jet plate, I think they can make a block with similar cooling but better flow.


----------



## dwolvin

I don't get the RGB hate. If you don't like it select a clean single color or leave it turned off. I have had enough loops that were so ugly I kept a solid panel on it, but now I figure it doesn't take much effort to make something decently good looking.


----------



## HyperMatrix

StAndrew said:


> But here is something that made me laugh, at the bottom of the intake port, before it reaches the jet, there is a 45* ramp/lip at the bottom...


For my education, could you explain what the problem is with a 45 degree angle ramp on the inlet? To my uneducated mind it would seem like the water needs to change direction by 90 degrees once it enters the block, and a 45 degree ramp there would help reduce the flow loss compared to hitting a wall straight on. But I’m not that familiar with fluid dynamics so would appreciate your insight.


----------



## KedarWolf

dwolvin said:


> I don't get the RGB hate. If you don't like it select a clean single color or leave it turned off. I have had enough loops that were so ugly I kept a solid panel on it, but now I figure it doesn't take much effort to make something decently good looking.


And we all know RGB makes your PC 27.3% faster!


----------



## ArchStanton

@HyperMatrix I presume he means:








However, he may have meant something else entirely. I'm relatively new to water cooling myself, and I'm not well versed in the history of block efficacy (his comments regarding "Martin and Skinee" lead me to believe these individuals pushed manufactures towards the use of gentle arcs rather than finite angles in the past).


----------



## criskoe

With the amount of sharp right angle flow paths that every single GPU terminal and GPU block deals with, is this really even a important thing?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

criskoe said:


> With the amount of sharp right angle flow paths that every single GPU terminal and GPU block deals with, is this really even a important thing?


No.


----------



## yaohanzex

If you are looking at water block design from the perspective of fluid mechanics. Then it shouldn’t be difficult for you to make a model in engineering software to analyze flow rate and heat transfer efficiency and then optimize the design. I would like to see your design. For me I haven’t taken a graduate level fluid mechanics course, I select water block based on performance only. Optimus as a small company indeed offers one of the top performance water blocks. But there must be room for optimization. The water cooling industry is going at a direction that I don’t like. A brand like EK is becoming a cult. New builders tend to think EK makes the best product simply because of the fancy look and marketing. Product from EK can’t even provide competitive performance. Yet you can’t even criticize EK because its fans will attack you for telling the truth.


----------



## StAndrew

HyperMatrix said:


> For my education, could you explain what the problem is with a 45 degree angle ramp on the inlet? To my uneducated mind it would seem like the water needs to change direction by 90 degrees once it enters the block, and a 45 degree ramp there would help reduce the flow loss compared to hitting a wall straight on. But I’m not that familiar with fluid dynamics so would appreciate your insight.


I'll try to show in MS paint but the entire port is blocked by about a third. Its not milled all the way through. And the resulting ramp channels the water upwards before entering the jet channel... It's just a mess of a design.


----------



## criskoe

yaohanzex said:


> If you are looking at water block design from the perspective of fluid mechanics. Then it shouldn’t be difficult for you to make a model in engineering software to analyze flow rate and heat transfer efficiency and then optimize the design. I would like to see your design. For me I haven’t taken a graduate level fluid mechanics course, I select water block based on performance only. Optimus as a small company indeed offers one of the top performance water blocks. But there must be room for optimization. The water cooling industry is going at a direction that I don’t like. A brand like EK is becoming a cult. New builders tend to think EK makes the best product simply because of the fancy look and marketing. Product from EK can’t even provide competitive performance. Yet you can’t even criticize EK because its fans will attack you for telling the truth.


Well you have come the the right place here on OCN.. LOL.. Not alot of EK fans here.

Really tho what other people buy shouldn't bother you. Like who really cares. LOL.. Brand loyalty and fanboyism is beyond stupid. But its just as silly to flame others for their purchases too.. People will buy what they want for a mountain of different reasons. Good or bad this will NEVER change. Buy what you want and vote with your wallet. Pretty simple. End of the day every single category of products on earth is going to have main stream shiny cookie cutter option vs lower quantity Higher quality niche options. This can be said for everything from cars, Audio equipment, clothing and so on. The list is endless. But having OPTIONS is important and only a good thing.

Truth is with chip nodes getting smaller and smaller. We are starting to hit a point where its becoming ever more difficult to wick away heat from such a small point. CPU dies are getting smaller and are being crammed with more and more heat. I wouldn't be surprised if the standard water-cooling products we are seeing today are starting to peak as to what's possible with realistic flow and coldplate cooling. We are going to have to have something completely new. Like new technology introduced in order to see any really amazing significant gains moving forward is my guess..

And lastly like @Section31 mentioned. Prices for PC stuff has gotten out of control and the actual gains are slowing. And if it keeps going this way we might hit a point where many people just dont bother see the actual value and walk away.. I can really see this happening but Its anyone's guess as to if PC watercooling will continue growing? Or go back to a niche trend and the larger companies shift their business or slowly disappear.


----------



## yaohanzex

criskoe said:


> Well you have come the the right place here on OCN.. LOL.. Not alot of EK fans here.
> 
> Really tho what other people buy shouldn't bother you. Like who really cares. LOL.. Brand loyalty and fanboyism is beyond stupid. But its just as silly to flame others for their purchases too.. People will buy what they want for a mountain of different reasons. Good or bad this will NEVER change. Buy what you want and vote with your wallet. Pretty simple. End of the day every single category of products on earth is going to have main stream shiny cookie cutter option vs lower quantity Higher quality niche options. This can be said for everything from cars, Audio equipment, clothing and so on. The list is endless. But having OPTIONS is important and only a good thing.
> 
> Truth is with chip nodes getting smaller and smaller. We are starting to hit a point where its becoming ever more difficult to wick away heat from such a small point. CPU dies are getting smaller and are being crammed with more and more heat. I wouldn't be surprised if the standard water-cooling products we are seeing today are starting to peak as to what's possible with realistic flow and coldplate cooling. We are going to have to have something completely new. Like new technology introduced in order to see any really amazing significant gains moving forward is my guess..
> 
> And lastly like @Section31 mentioned. Prices for PC stuff has gotten out of control and the actual gains are slowing. And if it keeps going this way we might hit a point where many people just dont bother see the actual value and walk away.. I can really see this happening but Its anyone's guess as to if PC watercooling will continue growing? Or go back to a niche trend and the larger companies shift their business or slowly disappear.


Indeed, recently motherboard price is getting out of control just like GPU. ROG is the most ridiculous brand. Yet someone attacked me for complaining a 30% price increase on motherboard compared to z590. At this rate, I also feel pcdiy is dying.


----------



## yaohanzex

StAndrew said:


> I'll try to show in MS paint but the entire port is blocked by about a third. Its not milled all the way through. And the resulting ramp channels the water upwards before entering the jet channel... It's just a mess of a design.


The design might not be optimal but then your option for cpu block would be limited to aqua computer and techn.


----------



## criskoe

In the PC cooling realm. I personally would like to see the CPU companies move away from IHS's or at least sell sku's with no IHS's and watercooling companies design some real direct die blocks... I know that there is a thai direct die block you can buy but again more options would be awesome. Seeing what some of the big brands could come up with would be neat.


----------



## Biggu

criskoe said:


> In the PC cooling realm. I personally would like to see the CPU companies move away from IHS's or at least sell sku's with no IHS's and watercooling companies design some real direct die blocks... I know that there is a thai direct die block you can buy but again more options would be awesome. Seeing what some of the big brands could come up with would be neat.


I agree it would be cool but honestly, that's such a niche market though.


----------



## StAndrew

yaohanzex said:


> The design might not be optimal but then your option for cpu block would be limited to aqua computer and techn.


Heatkiller. I got the Heatkiller LGA1700 mounting kit

Let me try to highlight the issue using the Techpowerup pictures (my phone doesn't focus quite as well as their camera).

The CNC bit didn't go all the way because that would have created an off center path for the water to flow through the channels. Clearly they needed to rethink their strategy but instead someone shrugged their shoulders and said screw it, good enough.

We can faintly see (adjust your monitor brightness/contrast if need) the lip where the CNC bit stopped in this picture (I've highlighted the lip in red. Its about a 45* upward slop.
















From the bottom, its harder to see but another angle.

















And one more to beat the dead horse (in blue).










And here is why it matters. For these fin stacks, you NEED as much velocity as possible to force the water through. I can now, with high confidence, say that the flow resistance of this block is a factor of both the water path and the fin stack but I don't know how much each factor in. That lip redirects a majority of the intake flow up... Channeling my inner suburban white girl, I just can't even right now.


----------



## StAndrew

I've contacted Optimus for a return, hopefully they have great customer service. 

I highly recommend not running this block with a single D5. D5's have poor head pressure. Techpowerup uses the Swiftech MCP50x, arguably one of the best pumps on the market and the highest head pressure pump. The MPC50X or any 18W DDC pump is highly recommended for the Optimus, even if you are only cooling your CPU.


----------



## ArchStanton

Every questionable design choice or manufacturing shortcut is just a marketing opportunity in disguise .


----------



## Sir Beregond

So based on the discussion about backplates from @Lobstar last week, can confirm that my ASUS Dark Hero board comes with one. Whether it is good enough remains to be seen.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> Well you have come the the right place here on OCN.. LOL.. Not alot of EK fans here.
> 
> Really tho what other people buy shouldn't bother you. Like who really cares. LOL.. Brand loyalty and fanboyism is beyond stupid. But its just as silly to flame others for their purchases too.. People will buy what they want for a mountain of different reasons. Good or bad this will NEVER change. Buy what you want and vote with your wallet. Pretty simple. End of the day every single category of products on earth is going to have main stream shiny cookie cutter option vs lower quantity Higher quality niche options. This can be said for everything from cars, Audio equipment, clothing and so on. The list is endless. But having OPTIONS is important and only a good thing.
> 
> Truth is with chip nodes getting smaller and smaller. We are starting to hit a point where its becoming ever more difficult to wick away heat from such a small point. CPU dies are getting smaller and are being crammed with more and more heat. I wouldn't be surprised if the standard water-cooling products we are seeing today are starting to peak as to what's possible with realistic flow and coldplate cooling. We are going to have to have something completely new. Like new technology introduced in order to see any really amazing significant gains moving forward is my guess..
> 
> And lastly like @Section31 mentioned. Prices for PC stuff has gotten out of control and the actual gains are slowing. And if it keeps going this way we might hit a point where many people just dont bother see the actual value and walk away.. I can really see this happening but Its anyone's guess as to if PC watercooling will continue growing? Or go back to a niche trend and the larger companies shift their business or slowly disappear.


Considering the big manufacturers researched cpu with watercooling channels, its something that will eventually be adopted


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> I agree it would be cool but honestly, that's such a niche market though.


I know some optimus owners are looking to exit the hobby. Some are listing there rigs for high values. Mainly targeting the new players entering into watercooling. Telling signs in an niche market like this.


----------



## Suteyaten

StAndrew said:


> Heatkiller. I got the Heatkiller LGA1700 mounting kit
> 
> Let me try to highlight the issue using the Techpowerup pictures (my phone doesn't focus quite as well as their camera).
> 
> The CNC bit didn't go all the way because that would have created an off center path for the water to flow through the channels. Clearly they needed to rethink their strategy but instead someone shrugged their shoulders and said screw it, good enough.
> 
> We can faintly see (adjust your monitor brightness/contrast if need) the lip where the CNC bit stopped in this picture (I've highlighted the lip in red. Its about a 45* upward slop.
> View attachment 2552405
> View attachment 2552406
> 
> 
> From the bottom, its harder to see but another angle.
> 
> View attachment 2552408
> View attachment 2552409
> 
> 
> And one more to beat the dead horse (in blue).
> 
> View attachment 2552410
> 
> 
> And here is why it matters. For these fin stacks, you NEED as much velocity as possible to force the water through. I can now, with high confidence, say that the flow resistance of this block is a factor of both the water path and the fin stack but I don't know how much each factor in. That lip redirects a majority of the intake flow up... Channeling my inner suburban white girl, I just can't even right now.
> 
> View attachment 2552412


With all of that said and done, I'd like to see you DIY CNC out that extra bit and test it to see how much of an impact that makes. Currently it's all theoretical, so I do want to see if this small change would make any major change to the temps. I would imagine temperatures matter significantly more than flow rate (not to dismiss flow rate is insignificant) since people likely opt for a custom loop for lower temps (regardless if it's a few degrees lower as for current CPUs with their IHS). As a person running on a single D5, I haven't stumbled upon any complications so the flow resistance of the block hasn't been a major issue as presented (although I do acknowledge the block has a rather flow resistance).


----------



## KedarWolf

I'm trying to get the motivation to install my Strix block.

Have thermal putty, GELID Extreme 0.5mm pads, the block.

Hooking up the coffee intravenous as we speak.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

It’s always funny seeing someone suggest/remark something and right away you have guys coming with that passive aggressive bs “I’d like to see you make your own block” or “They should hire you to make the blocks better”…

What did the guy say bad? 

I’m pretty sure a lot of ‘perfect” stuff we buy can be made a lot better but then you have the fanboys asslicking and throwing rocks under your legs so why would any company make anything better if nobody says anything? Just because OPTIMUS currently has the best block doesn’t mean they can’t improve or can do much better!
The asslicking for OPTIMUS brought you to the situation that they don’t give a **** about anything anymore,weren’t on here for 3-4 months that’s how much they care now. But ofc continue with that passive aggressive crap,they’ll surely improve CS,block production and everything else they’re “known” for.


----------



## Suteyaten

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> It’s always funny seeing someone suggest/remark something and right away you have guys coming with that passive aggressive bs “I’d like to see you make your own block” or “They should hire you to make the blocks better”…
> 
> What did the guy say bad?
> 
> I’m pretty sure a lot of ‘perfect” stuff we buy can be made a lot better but then you have the fanboys asslicking and throwing rocks under your legs so why would any company make anything better if nobody says anything? Just because OPTIMUS currently has the best block doesn’t mean they can’t improve or can do much better!
> The asslicking for OPTIMUS brought you to the situation that they don’t give a **** about anything anymore,weren’t on here for 3-4 months that’s how much they care now. But ofc continue with that passive aggressive crap,they’ll surely improve CS,block production and everything else they’re “known” for.


Not sure if that was directed towards me, but I would like to see if that little lip makes a difference. All in the name of scientific curiosity and to see if it's a valid thing worth considering as a necessity for improvements. Assuming if the message is directed towards me, it is ironically passive aggressive itself for what it's worth.


----------



## KedarWolf

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> It’s always funny seeing someone suggest/remark something and right away you have guys coming with that passive aggressive bs “I’d like to see you make your own block” or “They should hire you to make the blocks better”…
> 
> What did the guy say bad?
> 
> I’m pretty sure a lot of ‘perfect” stuff we buy can be made a lot better but then you have the fanboys asslicking and throwing rocks under your legs so why would any company make anything better if nobody says anything? Just because OPTIMUS currently has the best block doesn’t mean they can’t improve or can do much better!
> The asslicking for OPTIMUS brought you to the situation that they don’t give a **** about anything anymore,weren’t on here for 3-4 months that’s how much they care now. But ofc continue with that passive aggressive crap,they’ll surely improve CS,block production and everything else they’re “known” for.


Guy with an EVGA 360 AIO in Prime95 getting 92C 128-128 FFTs.

With my Foundation block I threw on an EKWB Predator 360 AIO I get 76C on the same test. Optimus must be doing something right. 🤫


----------



## LiquidHaus

If anyone has a problem with anything they buy, they either return it and find something else, or they make it work. I welcome anyone who has issues with a product - for example an acetal/acrylic top to a block - to then modify said top so that the "shortcomings" are thereby rendered null.

People had vastly improved the flow issue on the Foundations block by sanding the coldplate facing side of the o-ring. Same idea can be applied to the top. Wouldn't be too hard to mount the top to a custom jig and mill out the issues.


----------



## HyperMatrix

StAndrew said:


> Heatkiller. I got the Heatkiller LGA1700 mounting kit
> 
> Let me try to highlight the issue using the Techpowerup pictures (my phone doesn't focus quite as well as their camera).
> 
> The CNC bit didn't go all the way because that would have created an off center path for the water to flow through the channels. Clearly they needed to rethink their strategy but instead someone shrugged their shoulders and said screw it, good enough.
> 
> We can faintly see (adjust your monitor brightness/contrast if need) the lip where the CNC bit stopped in this picture (I've highlighted the lip in red. Its about a 45* upward slop.
> View attachment 2552405
> View attachment 2552406
> 
> 
> From the bottom, its harder to see but another angle.
> 
> View attachment 2552408
> View attachment 2552409
> 
> 
> And one more to beat the dead horse (in blue).
> 
> View attachment 2552410
> 
> 
> And here is why it matters. For these fin stacks, you NEED as much velocity as possible to force the water through. I can now, with high confidence, say that the flow resistance of this block is a factor of both the water path and the fin stack but I don't know how much each factor in. That lip redirects a majority of the intake flow up... Channeling my inner suburban white girl, I just can't even right now.
> 
> View attachment 2552412


Thanks for the detailed pictures. I have a much better idea of what you're referring to now. It would certainly be interesting to get a response from Optimus on this when they post here again in a few months. Even if you don't get around to modding it and testing it, would be interesting to see the results when run through a fluid dynamics software. Or maybe easier to keep replying to their posts on twitter with the question and this image to hopefully get a response. Flow loss aside, the Optimus signature block has been the highest performing CPU block I've used. So they're doing something right. If there's room for improvement, then even better.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> It’s always funny seeing someone suggest/remark something and right away you have guys coming with that passive aggressive bs “I’d like to see you make your own block” or “They should hire you to make the blocks better”…
> 
> What did the guy say bad?
> 
> I’m pretty sure a lot of ‘perfect” stuff we buy can be made a lot better but then you have the fanboys asslicking and throwing rocks under your legs so why would any company make anything better if nobody says anything? Just because OPTIMUS currently has the best block doesn’t mean they can’t improve or can do much better!
> The asslicking for OPTIMUS brought you to the situation that they don’t give a **** about anything anymore,weren’t on here for 3-4 months that’s how much they care now. But ofc continue with that passive aggressive crap,they’ll surely improve CS,block production and everything else they’re “known” for.


This discussion could be mute for sometime. There's going to be lot of consolidation coming in every industry so i wouldn't trust any company to survive except an few stable ones. Going to be fun to see which companies survive. Expect some of the big watercooling companies to go under.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> This discussion could be mute for sometime. There's going to be lot of consolidation coming in every industry so i wouldn't trust any company to survive except an few stable ones. Going to be fun to see which companies survive. Expect some of the big watercooling companies to go under.


EKs margins are great considering most of their products just mid-tier quality and they've been expanding their partnerships. They're essentially the Razer of water cooling. Flashy gear that works and can look good but definitely overpriced and you could do better. Aquacomputer and Koolance do a large portion of their business with non-PC gamers (industrial/commercial systems). Watercool also makes top notch products that keep selling out. Optimus is operating with equipment/space from another business and aren't over-investing into expansion by taking out loans so they'll always be able to just scale down production and be fine with their margins.

Only other companies I can think of offhand are things like Asetek, XSPC, Alphacool, and Thermaltake unless you get into the chinese stuff like barrow/bykski. I don't know about their finances but none of them would be a loss for enthusiast PC builders tbh.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> EKs margins are great considering most of their products just mid-tier quality and they've been expanding their partnerships. They're essentially the Razer of water cooling. Flashy gear that works and can look good but definitely overpriced and you could do better. Aquacomputer and Koolance do a large portion of their business with non-PC gamers (industrial/commercial systems). Watercool also makes top notch products that keep selling out. Optimus is operating with equipment/space from another business and aren't over-investing into expansion by taking out loans so they'll always be able to just scale down production and be fine with their margins.
> 
> Only other companies I can think of offhand are things like Asetek, XSPC, Alphacool, and Thermaltake unless you get into the chinese stuff like barrow/bykski. I don't know about their finances but none of them would be a loss for enthusiast PC builders tbh.


We don’t know the company finances or parents either so its very hard to predict what will happen. Bad financial management will lead to bankruptcy


----------



## LiquidHaus

HyperMatrix said:


> Only other companies I can think of offhand are things like Asetek, XSPC, Alphacool, and Thermaltake unless you get into the chinese stuff like barrow/bykski. I don't know about their finances but none of them would be a loss for enthusiast PC builders tbh.


I'm pretty close with the owner of XSPC. They do some good work and seem to be doing pretty well, especially with their TX series radiators always selling out. Their Raystorm block line is so underrated. Still love their new variant.

Asetek and their forever AIO patent has helped to ruin innovation in this industry. Don't care about anything that they are involved with.

Alphacool is changing gears and doing it pretty well, in fact. I'm excited to see them ramp up.

Thermaltake is...well. Thermaltake.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> I'm pretty close with the owner of XSPC. They do some good work and seem to be doing pretty well, especially with their TX series radiators always selling out. Their Raystorm block line is so underrated. Still love their new variant.
> 
> Asetek and their forever AIO patent has helped to ruin innovation in this industry. Don't care about anything that they are involved with.
> 
> Alphacool is changing gears and doing it pretty well, in fact. I'm excited to see them ramp up.
> 
> Thermaltake is...well. Thermaltake.


Hopefully most of the businesses survive the upcoming tough times. However consolidation is coming, if your relying on cheap credit and continued customers to survive day to day, it will be an issue. Cash flow management and demand/supply has to be tightly managed.

For Consumer, It's an much needed correction to the pricing/demand scale ongoing in the consumer side. If it's getting close to 10K USD plus including waterparts for some of us to build our rigs and with current economics, it is not sustainable considering other wants and expenses rising elsewhere. Maybe every 3-5 Years but not every 1-2 Years.

Even, I am looking at holding cash (sell super valuable stuff at high prices i no longer need) and if there's some distressed real investment that will surely bounce back in the long term, I will put money into that. So whenever i re-enter the pc market, I will flush with cash for the project.


----------



## HyperMatrix

LiquidHaus said:


> I'm pretty close with the owner of XSPC. They do some good work and seem to be doing pretty well, especially with their TX series radiators always selling out. Their Raystorm block line is so underrated. Still love their new variant.


My first ever step into custom water cooling was actually an XSPC kit some 10-12 years ago. I still have 3 of their radiators and ram/cpu block in a PC. I had no real issues with their products. The only way I could describe it is that there’s no excitement around what they make. Not sure if that’s changed as of late. So while I don’t view them negatively like I do some of EKs stuff, they’re not one of the first names that come to mind when I’m considering a build or recommending parts to anyone. And that’s a problem from a business sense. Being a name that people know exists, but not having a particular reason/factor for people to buy/recommend it as much as other brands.


----------



## StAndrew

Suteyaten said:


> With all of that said and done, I'd like to see you DIY CNC out that extra bit and test it to see how much of an impact that makes. Currently it's all theoretical, so I do want to see if this small change would make any major change to the temps. I would imagine temperatures matter significantly more than flow rate (not to dismiss flow rate is insignificant) since people likely opt for a custom loop for lower temps (regardless if it's a few degrees lower as for current CPUs with their IHS). As a person running on a single D5, I haven't stumbled upon any complications so the flow resistance of the block hasn't been a major issue as presented (although I do acknowledge the block has a rather flow resistance).


I would like to see that also. But alas I don't have the skill and it wouldn't really work. The low profile top plus the aspirations of the off center intake are the culprit of both issues highlighted; the fitting threads issue and that lip.

The flaw is really in the entire design of the top. If that channel continued to be drilled out, you would have an off center channel and the "jet" channel would be useless. You'd have a big, offset hole. But maybe that would help, who knows. Who wants to drill out a $150 waterblock  . Anyways, someone in Optimus saw this and just... shrugged.

The fix is a new top design, ideally with a center mounted jet plate. 



ArchStanton said:


> Every questionable design choice or manufacturing shortcut is just a marketing opportunity in disguise .
> 
> View attachment 2552426


💩


----------



## StAndrew

Now if someone had a high resolution 3D printer and wanted to try their had at a design, I'd gladly mail off my block if I can get the resulting top.


----------



## Suteyaten

StAndrew said:


> I would like to see that also. But alas I don't have the skill and it wouldn't really work. The low profile top plus the aspirations of the off center intake are the culprit of both issues highlighted; the fitting threads issue and that lip.
> 
> The flaw is really in the entire design of the top. If that channel continued to be drilled out, you would have an off center channel and the "jet" channel would be useless. You'd have a big, offset hole. But maybe that would help, who knows. Who wants to drill out a $150 waterblock  . Anyways, someone in Optimus saw this and just... shrugged.
> 
> The fix is a new top design, ideally with a center mounted jet plate.
> 
> 
> 💩


Yeah, if any testing could be done, that'd be great. If it's just the top that's an issue, I'd definitely like to see a revision. Their replacement tops are already selling for $30, so I wouldn't mind upgrading to a revised top that's sold separately (assuming it's properly executed and there's noticeable improvements). Clearly offsetting the ports isn't an issue (as seen with their Signature V2 blocks) so I can't imagine there being any _practical_ reason limiting them from offsetting the port on Foundation blocks. If the inlet is moved inward a bit, I doubt there'd be a concern with the low profile design. Referring to EK's original Velocity blocks, there doesn't seem to be any issues that's observed as with the Foundation blocks in terms of the inlet, so it could be possible to just inch the inlet inwards a bit. I'm open for someone to make a 3D print of this and test it.


----------



## StAndrew

Suteyaten said:


> Yeah, if any testing could be done, that'd be great. If it's just the top that's an issue, I'd definitely like to see a revision. Their replacement tops are already selling for $30, so I wouldn't mind upgrading to a revised top that's sold separately (assuming it's properly executed and there's noticeable improvements). Clearly offsetting the ports isn't an issue (as seen with their Signature V2 blocks) so I can't imagine there being any _practical_ reason limiting them from offsetting the port on Foundation blocks. If the inlet is moved inward a bit, I doubt there'd be a concern with the low profile design. Referring to EK's original Velocity blocks, there doesn't seem to be any issues that's observed as with the Foundation blocks in terms of the inlet, so it could be possible to just inch the inlet inwards a bit. I'm open for someone to make a 3D print of this and test it.


I think the signature v2 and foundation use the same top design. 🤔 I'll have to double check.

I don't know why they feel the need to offset the intake port TBH. A center mounted port is always going to be better and for the most part blocks like Heatkiller are still able to use compression fittings so spacing isn't an issue...


----------



## yaohanzex

StAndrew said:


> I think the signature v2 and foundation use the same top design. 🤔 I'll have to double check.
> 
> I don't know why they feel the need to offset the intake port TBH. A center mounted port is always going to be better and for the most part blocks like Heatkiller are still able to use compression fittings so spacing isn't an issue...


The top of the CPU block is the reason Optimus has significantly lower flow rate than other brand because Optimus is not the only brand with micro fins on cold plate. You do see the test results on techpowerup, the performance with current design is still near the top. Another factor to consider is whether a smoother design suitable to be manufactured with CNC.


----------



## StAndrew

yaohanzex said:


> The top of the CPU block is the reason Optimus has significantly lower flow rate than other brand because Optimus is not the only brand with micro fins on cold plate. You do see the test results on techpowerup, the performance with current design is still near the top. Another factor to consider is whether a smoother design suitable to be manufactured with CNC.


I think so but they also have the smallest fins and channels (and pretty shallow as well) so I think it's a combo of both?


----------



## yaohanzex

StAndrew said:


> I think so but they also have the smallest fins and channels (and pretty shallow as well) so I think it's a combo of both?


The CNC blade can't be as long if it's that thin.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Hopefully most of the businesses survive the upcoming tough times. However consolidation is coming, if your relying on cheap credit and continued customers to survive day to day, it will be an issue. Cash flow management and demand/supply has to be tightly managed.
> 
> For Consumer, It's an much needed correction to the pricing/demand scale ongoing in the consumer side. If it's getting close to 10K USD plus including waterparts for some of us to build our rigs and with current economics, it is not sustainable considering other wants and expenses rising elsewhere. Maybe every 3-5 Years but not every 1-2 Years.
> 
> Even, I am looking at holding cash (sell super valuable stuff at high prices i no longer need) and if there's some distressed real investment that will surely bounce back in the long term, I will put money into that. So whenever i re-enter the pc market, I will flush with cash for the project.


I would be buying gold if I shared your concerns (I’m not concerned about the economy). If I believed most companies would fail, I would put my money into hedges and bet against them (and win BIG).

Who is spending $10k on their build? I could see why you would be waiting til 2026 to upgrade if you spent that much. Seriously you can just re-use all your watercooling parts except your GPU block. I’m still using my CPU block, all the fans, and both and pumps I bought for my first watercooled build 5 years ago. I’d be using the radiators too if I had not switched to a MO-RA.


----------



## iamjanco

I'm thinking about investing in a gov't surplus Atlas missile silo myself. From the sounds of things, they just might end up coming back into vogue...









Here's that same site being built way back when:


----------



## Section31

6.5 Bottles lol Add up the 4 Bottles used (thrown away), 11 bottles totaling 600cad my guess . Crazy hobby.


----------



## iamjanco

^ ...now I'm thinking about investing in Mayhems Solutions Ltd.

🍔+🍟


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> ^ ...now I'm thinking about investing in Mayhems Solutions Ltd.
> 
> 🍔+🍟


Me and shawnb99 bought a lot combined together (though we bought ours seperately). I think he bought 14 for his rig.

The amount me, shawnb99, chibi (one region) spent on watercooling and optimus is astronomical high i’m sure. Considering we bought multiple times (fittings, multiple cpu blocks and even gpu blocks) and i also bought for friends too. 

That and the rate we adopted stuff was nearly ever new release from optimus/watercool/aquacomputer.

It’s just we never could time our purchases together in the end (all bought seperately). Some of my optimus stuff ended up passing along to users here like andy0x2 among things.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> 6.5 Bottles lol Add up the 4 Bottles used (thrown away), 11 bottles totaling 600cad my guess . Crazy hobby.


No wonder you want to take a break! LOL... 

Little surprised your diving head first into keebs tho.. I'm so glad I got in and out of that **** show real quick. Love my build and content never buying another. Got a few spare PCBs incase as well as some spare WOB and BOW PBT sets and all the switches, durock stabs and Krytox I could use in a lifetime. Im so happy I didn't get hooked into that ever ending sickness...


----------



## Biggu

criskoe said:


> No wonder you want to take a break! LOL...
> 
> Little surprised your diving head first into keebs tho.. I'm so glad I got in and out of that **** show real quick. Love my build and content never buying another. Got a few spare PCBs incase as well as some spare WOB and BOW PBT sets and all the switches, durock stabs and Krytox I could use in a lifetime. Im so happy I didn't get hooked into that ever ending sickness...


Absolutely agree. Ive got 5-6 keyboards sitting on my shelf un-built and I just dont really have the motivation to do it. Mainly because im still waiting on key caps which is such a discouragement waiting over a year for some sets to show up and the fact people are still having GMK make them is mind boggling.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> No wonder you want to take a break! LOL...
> 
> Little surprised your diving head first into keebs tho.. I'm so glad I got in and out of that **** show real quick. Love my build and content never buying another. Got a few spare PCBs incase as well as some spare WOB and BOW PBT sets and all the switches, durock stabs and Krytox I could use in a lifetime. Im so happy I didn't get hooked into that ever ending sickness...


Don’t worry we are watching it. Only blackhole is switches and stabilizer for me. I keep it to 3-4 (sell off any extras) and unless something really special comes out i am done.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

I myself started with custom keebs and immediately noticed the 1+year turnaround and constant delays so it was a quick gt*fo…
It started getting ridiculous paying ******ed amounts of money and waiting what now 15-18 months for anything to arrive?! Basically if I order I can’t change anything because my initial idea like what keyboard,colors,keycaps won’t be the same if I buy new stuff because I can’t wait.
Everyone knows my patience is “almost” none existent so I quickly moved on.
Also everytime the deadline comes close there’s a huge Covid outbreak or power outage in China so they have a excuse why it’ll be delayed another couple of months,ohhhh lets not forget the random flooding,too!


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Absolutely agree. Ive got 5-6 keyboards sitting on my shelf un-built and I just dont really have the motivation to do it. Mainly because im still waiting on key caps which is such a discouragement waiting over a year for some sets to show up and the fact people are still having GMK make them is mind boggling.


I have couple sets waiting too - gmk and keyreative. I didn’t go hard into them thankfully. They got to be special for me to want. I use lot of cheap instant stuff stuff (akko asa, cannonkeys cxa) and recently just targeting sub 100usd groupbuys with max 6months wait.

Switches are my hell hole but i kind of settled on what i like now. 

I sell off the bulk of keyboards i don’t need for near costs so thankfully i don’t lose much. Keep it to one spare, one at home and one at work.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I myself started with custom keebs and immediately noticed the 1+year turnaround and constant delays so it was a quick gt*fo…
> It started getting ridiculous paying ******ed amounts of money and waiting what now 15-18 months for anything to arrive?! Basically if I order I can’t change anything because my initial idea like what keyboard,colors,keycaps won’t be the same if I buy new stuff because I can’t wait.
> Everyone knows my patience is “almost” none existent so I quickly moved on.
> Also everytime the deadline comes close there’s a huge Covid outbreak or power outage in China so they have a excuse why it’ll be delayed another couple of months,ohhhh lets not forget the random flooding,too!


You really should invest into stock market, property market or one of the more traditional assets that build net worth up.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Section31 said:


> You really should invest into stock market, property market or one of the more traditional assets that build net worth up.


I’m in the stock market since I was 22.
From working 9-5 you won’t be able to afford anything,plus I have my own business where I don’t spend more then 3-4 hours on it per day.

For me the most important thing is to make the most money with the least amount of work!
Whoever brags how he’s a hard worker and works 12-15h per day he’s a idiot!


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I’m in the stock market since I was 22.
> From working 9-5 you won’t be able to afford anything,plus I have my own business where I don’t spend more then 3-4 hours on it per day.
> 
> For me the most important thing is to make the most money with the least amount of work!
> Whoever brags how he’s a hard worker and works 12-15h per day he’s a idiot!


Then your set for big time jump. Matter of entering areas that have long term growth but at distressed prices because of the ongoing situations. Imo lot of these opportunities coming up. 

Time it well (with some luck) and your the next Warren Buffet.


----------



## ArchStanton

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Whoever brags how he’s a hard worker and works 12-15h per day he’s a_n_ idiot!


Unless you are fortunate enough to love what you do 😉.


----------



## Section31

ArchStanton said:


> Unless you are fortunate enough to love what you do 😉.


All that matters nowadays is how to make quick money (in large enough amounts). Then you don’t need to an slave to the current system, which rewards the people at the top mostly.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Absolutely agree. Ive got 5-6 keyboards sitting on my shelf un-built and I just dont really have the motivation to do it. Mainly because im still waiting on key caps which is such a discouragement waiting over a year for some sets to show up and the fact people are still having GMK make them is mind boggling.


I also have better long term planning now in place. Since i have enough for daily usage, i can greatly reduce the costs going forward. I should be able to eliminate the shipping and taxes portion of future boards. Assuming there are boards i like.

I’m pretty much planning to go back to ship to us/asia address for future watercooling needs and keyboard stuff. Just bring them back up myself whenever i go to us or visit friends/family in hk/china. It’s looking like quarantine regulations are going to be relaxed again in couple months.

Getting tired of paying DHL/Fedex/UPS Shipping fees and then the gst/pst on items. I am ok with USPS/EMS though.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

ArchStanton said:


> Unless you are fortunate enough to love what you do 😉.


Everything in life gets boring after some time,doesn’t matter how much you love something do it consistently for some time and it’ll get boring/you’ll lose interest.
Thinking about it now there’s nothing that I love that much where I could tell you I’d be ok doing it daily for hours. I like changes,being free and just going by my mood. Wake up in the morning and knowing you don’t have to listen to some idiot supervisor or manager,if you feel like it just turn around and nap for another 2-3h that’s life.


----------



## iamjanco

You guys are starting to sound like a bunch of old men.

Pepperidge Farm knows.


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> You guys are starting to sound like a bunch of old men.
> 
> Pepperidge Farm knows.


Delicious food they make. Not healthy thats all. I grew up on there fish crackers, milano among things. Parents used to make trips to us just to get them when was kid (and treetop pear/apple juice).


----------



## Sir Beregond

What I've figured out is if you are not regularly making more money, year over year you're making less with that same rate or at best 2% raise over what you were before. Not even close to keeping up with inflation or rising costs of living.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Oh, speaking of keebs...

I wanted to show you guys something. I recently worked with another fellow content creator who specializes in custom keyboards to put together a nice keyboard from the ground up for me.










Specs:
KBD67 V3 Alu Black
Hotswap PCB
NK Cream Switches (broken in)
Krytox 205g0
White FR4 Plate
Tempest Tape Mod
Liquid Silicone Mod
GMK Modo 2 + Modo Light 
CableMod Custom Coil Cable

This keyboard is godlike. Like, I can't even describe how nice it is to type on compared to any other keyboard I've ever typed on. My friend was able to create a YT video about it as well, which can be located here: 




He types a lot harder than I do lol so it's even quieter than when he does his sound tests.

Didn't really break the bank either and I couldn't be happier. The two GMK sets were the only real expensive parts of the whole build.


----------



## dwolvin

Very pretty, but I don't get 67 key boards. But then again, once you go smaller than TKL it's going to be personal opinion on which keys to get rid of / keep...

And my wife hates loosing her numpad at all!


----------



## bearsdidit

dwolvin said:


> Very pretty, but I don't get 67 key boards. But then again, once you go smaller than TKL it's going to be personal opinion on which keys to get rid of / keep...
> 
> And my wife hates loosing her numpad at all!


I would love to build a custom KB but have yet to find a full-sized option with a rotary knob.


----------



## Sir Beregond

dwolvin said:


> Very pretty, but I don't get 67 key boards. But then again, once you go smaller than TKL it's going to be personal opinion on which keys to get rid of / keep...
> 
> And my wife hates loosing her numpad at all!


I like having a ten key. Tenkeyless keyboards feel too weird to me.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Lubricating the switches “DUROCK V2 SILENT LINEAR DOLPHIN (I prefer silent linear)“ and the stabilizers (also DUROCK’S) is the worst. Rest is ok,but lubricating uhhhhh

Also if anyone is interested this guy has custom foam laser cutouts for various keebs if you want it silent.









StupidFish Designs


StupidFish Designs, a web store for mechanical keyboard enthusiasts. Specializing in acoustic dampening foam for custom mechanicals keyboards.



stupidfish.design





I bought it for mine and it was extremely handy,otherwise I’d have to cut it out myself and that’s again a pain in the….same like lubricating switches.
Started all happy with the switches and after the 7-8th switch I was like “Fu** this,there’s no way I’m sitting here for another 3h doing the other switches (TKL keeb)”. I sucked it up like a man and did it but never again.

The whole custom keeb thing is the same like watercooling,you start like everyone else and then you get yourself into stupid bs out of boredom and you need to try new stuff out ☹


----------



## chibi

I need numpad + a volume rocker and prefer full size keyboard. Guess I'm sticking with my retail kb for the long haul, haha.

I do admit, my friends custom keyboard is much nicer to type on. If that's all you need to do, but I want more! Once I needed to get more out of A~Z, it was annoying to find out he's missing keys haha.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Oh, speaking of keebs...
> 
> I wanted to show you guys something. I recently worked with another fellow content creator who specializes in custom keyboards to put together a nice keyboard from the ground up for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs:
> KBD67 V3 Alu Black
> Hotswap PCB
> NK Cream Switches (broken in)
> Krytox 205g0
> White FR4 Plate
> Tempest Tape Mod
> Liquid Silicone Mod
> GMK Modo 2 + Modo Light
> CableMod Custom Coil Cable
> 
> This keyboard is godlike. Like, I can't even describe how nice it is to type on compared to any other keyboard I've ever typed on. My friend was able to create a YT video about it as well, which can be located here:


It is an well know good value board but the value scene is getting interesting.

I am getting for my friend the upcoming owlabs qk65. Great deal for 150USD and with local vendors, lot cheaper shipping. I feel its very similar to Owlabs known boards (Jelly, Suit, Spring) but just doesn't have the fancy pvd finish used on the backplate.

I kind of like that qk65 green they are now offering, wished i got that color for my spring instead of starlight. However, i have no need for such an keyboard.

You actually don't need GMK, they are kind of overpriced imo but they do have some nice colors. I personally like the Akko ASA sets and have been experimenting with brands like Teapbt/Osume/Milkway. Much more affordable pbt ones with reasonable wait times (6months or less). Just installed the teapbt set on my keyboard.

Also from this purchase, i made up my mind for future self purchases after hearing how much this keyboard would costs with china delivery. Basically it would cost 355usd versus 455usd. It works really well for me since i go back to Asia every year normally anyways (new quarantine rules screwed it up).


----------



## Section31

bearsdidit said:


> I would love to build a custom KB but have yet to find a full-sized option with a rotary knob.


I feel the entry level side is getting really interesting. The likes of Akko/Keychron going both premium/custom board customization level and also revamping there plastic boards to be basically custom boards in plastic shells and steel plate. Even the quality of the keycaps are much better. 

Love how more boards too are going full custom re-mapping (ideally through via/qmk). Just matter time till you get 104 with Knob, 96% with knob already exists.My office has been getting new staff Akko 3098B (wireless/wired) as there prices are great.


----------



## criskoe

I feel like finding what you like is the hardest part of Keebs. A million different combinations of switches, plates, foams and case materials with no where to really try different things except for the very few keyboard meets.. And the slightest change can drastically change how a keyboard feels or sounds. So with that said you can spend a fortune buying things just to try basically.

Considering keebs are 100% a preference thing. I think the most surprising aspect of this keeb world to me was seeing the absolute elitist attitude of many in this hobby. Like If you don't spend a fortune or dont buy some limited run item your KB is **** or noob. Like designer keyboards??? Gimme a break! LOL. Its funny watching fellow nerds being savage to each other over keyboards. lol...

After sifting through a ton of information and did a ton of reading before even buying my first item. I tried everything to not make impulse or waste buys. And even then I ended up with a bunch of **** ill never use again. Thats what I loath about this hobby. So much waiting and waste. Dont get me wrong, If you like this hobby, please don't get offended. Im happy for you and how you spend your time and money is non of my business. Its just not for me and I cant help but feel like "real friends" dont let friends or family get into this **** tho. LOL...

Im with @ForestWhitakersGoodEye on building getting boring as well. After building my second one and playing with lube, foams, tape, springs and clickbars of different weight. etc etc. It gets old fast! I even tried making custom cables which was fun for one or two but after one day, any after just feels like work afterwards. lol..

Adding to what @Section31 said about entry level.. I bet were not to far from the big gaming companies having fully customizable keebs soon as well. Asus has started selling a keeb with hotswap sockets now.. I bet all the big PC companies will follow suit soon.

The best thing about customs keebs tho for me is VIA 100% hands down. Nothings better then being about to map any key and macros with layers and no silly background software needed. The rest is really over rated unless you want a certain feel and sound..

I left completely satisfied with my basic build. I ended up at first thinking I wanted a full size but fell in love with my D65.. I absolutely love having the extra desk space now and cant go back.. And in the very rare time I need a num pad. I can pull out my wireless numpad and put it away when im done.. And for any other missing keys. VIA and layers solves that problem easy.


----------



## bearsdidit

Section31 said:


> I feel the entry level side is getting really interesting. The likes of Akko/Keychron going both premium/custom board customization level and also revamping there plastic boards to be basically custom boards in plastic shells and steel plate. Even the quality of the keycaps are much better.
> 
> Love how more boards too are going full custom re-mapping (ideally through via/qmk). Just matter time till you get 104 with Knob, 96% with knob already exists.My office has been getting new staff Akko 3098B (wireless/wired) as there prices are great.


The Akko looks really nice! I will definitely check out the Keychrin Q6 when it is released. It’s missing a rotary but has decent media/shortcut keys.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I feel like a lot of both PC building and keyboards as a hobby is suited for tinkerers. I absolutely have to tinker with anything I get my hands on. If I can't modify it in any way, then it doesn't interest me. I have to be able to make it my own in some fashion or another. Keyboards are still a cheaper option at expressing yourself through tinkering than building up an entire PC, and it makes sense to me on why its popularity has exploded since the pandemic started. 

I've heard a few of you guys on here kinda getting over the PC building hobby or the keyboard hobby. I don't think there's anything wrong with that. I think it's natural. Back before I started doing LiquidHaus full time for a living, I used to bounce between modifying my various Volkswagens and PC's. Sometimes I'd try my hand at building up an aquarium too. I used to build super expensive vapes too. I mean I've really done as many 'creative' hobbies as I could get my hands on - also wallet permitting, lol. 

I think bouncing around hobbies or even taking breaks from them is quite healthy to do. When and if you come back around to a hobby you've taken a break from, it's always a nice surprise seeing or learning things that you hadn't realized the first few go arounds.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

LiquidHaus said:


> I feel like a lot of both PC building and keyboards as a hobby is suited for tinkerers. I absolutely have to tinker with anything I get my hands on. If I can't modify it in any way, then it doesn't interest me. I have to be able to make it my own in some fashion or another. Keyboards are still a cheaper option at expressing yourself through tinkering than building up an entire PC, and it makes sense to me on why its popularity has exploded since the pandemic started.
> 
> I've heard a few of you guys on here kinda getting over the PC building hobby or the keyboard hobby. I don't think there's anything wrong with that. I think it's natural. Back before I started doing LiquidHaus full time for a living, I used to bounce between modifying my various Volkswagens and PC's. Sometimes I'd try my hand at building up an aquarium too. I used to build super expensive vapes too. I mean I've really done as many 'creative' hobbies as I could get my hands on - also wallet permitting, lol.
> 
> I think bouncing around hobbies or even taking breaks from them is quite healthy to do. When and if you come back around to a hobby you've taken a break from, it's always a nice surprise seeing or learning things that you hadn't realized the first few go arounds.


For me it’s not the building or money it’s the wait times. I’m ok with waiting some time but nowadays everything you buy is months delayed or the company bs us. If you want something right away then you have to go the scalper route which even with money I’m not doing.
I’d rather kill myself then buy from a 20 year old scalper “Yooooo bruuuuh,bruuuh you got the money bruhhhhh…” no ****ing way I’m giving those idiots a cent. I’m not saying they’re all like that but what I’ve seen here in Toronto 90% are like that.

But I agree completely with the building it with your own hands. I could’ve just cut the tubes and forget about them but I sanded them,spray painted them etc…cut holes in my case etc etc…that’s fun and I enjoy doing it but the waiting time for literally anything is what kills it for me. I have this great idea I hype myself up and then “ohhhh **** you can’t buy it or you have to wait 4-8 months” kills it for me immediately.

If this guy really goes to the end and builds this keeb I’m 1000% buying it,this is literally perfection for me regarding my taste. It’ll be probably expensive around the $800-1200usd mark but this is one I’d be ok buying. Would never buy a keycult tho,tried making @Section31 buy a Keycult but he‘s smarter then that haha


This is the one 🥰


----------



## criskoe

I remember seeing that render on reddit a long while back. It is pretty sexy!

At the time I figured cause it was a really ambitious design that it would just get pushed aside.

Do you know if buddy is still pursuing it?


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Yep it’s from a reddit guy and from what I’ve seen the latest (3-4 months ago) he did continue but changed a thing or two. He made different color renders and people liked it. (Was some weird **** almost like skin color with darkish pink keycaps,ugly as hell but weirdos liked it)
When I get home today I’ll search him up again and see how it’s going and if it’s going to be a thing. I really wish he makes this exact one,this is really eyecatching and something new. 
I’ll update here if there’s anything new


----------



## ArchStanton

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> This is the one


Those 2 images are the first time I've ever understood why "DIY keyboards" should be a "thing".


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

ArchStanton said:


> Those 2 images are the first time I've ever understood why "DIY keyboards" should be a "thing".


When I first saw the images it was a “This is it!” moment,then it was “it’s probably one of those waaaaay to good things that’ll never see the world”…I know he worked on it more,those bottom knobs are the adjustments for your wrists,one upper knob is wireless or bluetooth and one knob is for sound.

Even if the keycaps are a tiny bit stretched out but for me personally this is 100% my taste.
Imagine you buy a keeb like this all super expensive and then you’re a idiot and overlube the switches/stabilizers and it starts dripping out and you **** it up haha 😆


----------



## chibi

bearsdidit said:


> The Akko looks really nice! I will definitely check out the Keychrin Q6 when it is released. It’s missing a rotary but has decent media/shortcut keys.


Wow thanks for mentioning that. Looks like the Keychron Q6 is my jam. Hopefully they release a knob version! I'm going to hold out and see if there's further development in that area.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

@criskoe

This was the last update around 70ish days ago…apparently he’s working on this final version and this is what it’s going to look like.

Idk man,every single ****ing time they have to **** up something beautiful,*** did he have to add that ugly wrist rest? Just leave it simple,you don’t have to slap 50mil extras,let me just grab a wrist rest you do the rest…I’m not sure how I feel about this final version,he ****ed up on the keycaps aswell and that other version (color) is somewhat questionable to.
Same **** like with the Lian-Li V3000+ …what is such a small wrist rest going to cover,my finger knuckles? That subtle rgb infront was perfect,he slightly changed the color to,people thought it’s to dark. I get it you can adjust the wrist rest but it’s unnecessary


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> @criskoe
> 
> This was the last update around 70ish days ago…apparently he’s working on this final version and this is what it’s going to look like.
> 
> Idk man,every single *ing time they have to *_ up something beautiful,*_ did he have to add that ugly wrist rest? Just leave it simple,you don’t have to slap 50mil extras,let me just grab a wrist rest you do the rest…I’m not sure how I feel about this final version,he ****ed up on the keycaps aswell and that other version (color) is somewhat questionable to.
> Same **** like with the Lian-Li V3000+ …what is such a small wrist rest going to cover,my finger knuckles? That subtle rgb infront was perfect,he slightly changed the color to,people thought it’s to dark. I get it you can adjust the wrist rest but it’s unnecessary
> 
> 
> View attachment 2552978
> 
> 
> View attachment 2552979
> 
> 
> View attachment 2552980


Guy ruined it. Just enjoy your qk65. Its going to be great board.


----------



## criskoe

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> @criskoe
> 
> This was the last update around 70ish days ago…apparently he’s working on this final version and this is what it’s going to look like.
> 
> Idk man,every single *ing time they have to *_ up something beautiful,*_ did he have to add that ugly wrist rest? Just leave it simple,you don’t have to slap 50mil extras,let me just grab a wrist rest you do the rest…I’m not sure how I feel about this final version,he ****ed up on the keycaps aswell and that other version (color) is somewhat questionable to.
> Same **** like with the Lian-Li V3000+ …what is such a small wrist rest going to cover,my finger knuckles? That subtle rgb infront was perfect,he slightly changed the color to,people thought it’s to dark. I get it you can adjust the wrist rest but it’s unnecessary


WOW. Yeah thats def not as good as the first renders. Totally breaks it.. That wrist rest is no good for me either. Another thing is there is way to many knobs now! LOL... It just looks funny with 6 knobs... This build is officially called KNOB SIX now to me... lol

As for the key caps. That's totally not going to work. I highly doubt he will actually be able to get high quality shine through caps made.. No one makes them. And even if did he did some how get them made. They will look like absolute crap with south facing LEDs, The light will barely shine through and not look anything like that at all. That one render is HUGELY misleading. Most of the legend wont be lit up.. There is no way the community will accept a premium board like this with north facing LEDs either cause people will NOT be fine with buying this board knowing they cant use cherry profile keycaps then. (GMK, etc). So silly...

This is what I ment before about this build being way to ambitious... I really dont know what buddy's thinking here... Oh well....


----------



## UdoG

satinghostrider said:


> I have the same problem on my Strix block and I tightened the screws holding the plexi glass on the gaskets prior to filling up my loop. Might have to reseat the gasket again. I emailed Optimus but they didn't tell me what was the torque rating for these screws. They just said to tighten as much as possible without overdoing it. Not sure how to reseat the gaskets procedure wise. Any tips? Wanted to order another gasket but the shipping charge for one item wasn't worth at all.
> 
> I can confirm it's not leaking rather it's sweating or something as I constantly wipe the edges and if anything it's a faint trace of my dye in my loop from time to time. Sometimes there isn't even a trace and right now it seems to have dried up. It's an eyesore though. So I can only deduce it could be some sort of silicon oil from the rubber gasket or its something else. My temps are great though. Not sure if it could be my humidity that's causing this as well.
> 
> View attachment 2544673


I have the same problem with a FTW3 block - did you manage to replace the block?


----------



## satinghostrider

UdoG said:


> I have the same problem with a FTW3 block - did you manage to replace the block?
> 
> View attachment 2552985


Still waiting for them to send me the correct replacement. They sent the wrong gaskets for another model last week. Quite possibly my last purchase with Optimus honestly. I'd take a lesser block for less headache. To those that got their's working perfectly, it is a great block nonetheless. I know they are trying hard to sort out the issues but at the price point we are paying for these blocks, I am sorry it is unacceptable.


----------



## UdoG

satinghostrider said:


> Still waiting for them to send me the correct replacement. They sent the wrong gaskets for another model last week. Quite possibly my last purchase with Optimus honestly. I'd take a lesser block for less headache. To those that got their's working perfectly, it is a great block nonetheless. I know they are trying hard to sort out the issues but at the price point we are paying for these blocks, I am sorry it is unacceptable.


You will receive at least a replacement gasket. My request was quickly rejected because it supposedly made no sense to replace the gasket (this was the answer from Optimus support). I am not satisfied with Optimus too.

Please keep me uptodate if the situation will be better with the new gasket,
Thanks.


----------



## StAndrew

UdoG said:


> I have the same problem with a FTW3 block - did you manage to replace the block?
> 
> View attachment 2552985





satinghostrider said:


> Still waiting for them to send me the correct replacement. They sent the wrong gaskets for another model last week. Quite possibly my last purchase with Optimus honestly. I'd take a lesser block for less headache. To those that got their's working perfectly, it is a great block nonetheless. I know they are trying hard to sort out the issues but at the price point we are paying for these blocks, I am sorry it is unacceptable.


I think the problem is the cerakote, not the gasket... Interested to see if they can "fix" it.


----------



## satinghostrider

StAndrew said:


> I think the problem is the cerakote, not the gasket... Interested to see if they can "fix" it.


The new gaskets though wrong does look higher than my older one. And the cerakote problem is only with white and satin. That explains why you only see black available to order on the site now.


----------



## UdoG

Do you think the black gasket will solve the issue?


----------



## satinghostrider

UdoG said:


> Do you think the black gasket will solve the issue?


It might but no one really knows unless they test it over time to ensure its not a problem anymore especially so with the satin ti and white cerakoted finishes.


----------



## iamjanco

StAndrew said:


> I think the problem is the cerakote, not the gasket... Interested to see if they can "fix" it.


go back to nickel plating and raise the price another $200? 

/sarc.


----------



## StAndrew

satinghostrider said:


> It might but no one really knows unless they test it over time to ensure its not a problem anymore especially so with the satin ti and white cerakoted finishes.


Hopefully Optimus tests it first; I wouldn't volunteer.


----------



## StAndrew

iamjanco said:


> go back to nickel plating and raise the price another $200?
> 
> /sarc.


Does anyone know the heat transfer of ceracoat? I wonder how it affects the waterblock vs Cu or Ni plating


----------



## Section31

Holy smokes. Supply chain definitely hit hard. Even an simple dell monitor (ips 27inch) for office staff now takes 3-4months to restock. Before it was 2weeks and always in stock.


----------



## Lobstar

StAndrew said:


> Does anyone know the heat transfer of ceracoat? I wonder how it affects the waterblock vs Cu or Ni plating


They have a product specifically for heat transfer. Cerakote - TRANSFER GREY (AIR CURE)
This black version also mentions thermal conductivity. Cerakote - ARCTIC BLACK (OVEN CURE)

Considering the use cases I'm aware of I'd be willing to guess that it's pretty good or at least not measurably different than the bare metal.



Section31 said:


> Holy smokes. Supply chain definitely hit hard. Even an simple dell monitor (ips 27inch) for office staff now takes 3-4months to restock. Before it was 2weeks and always in stock.


I heard China is having entire regions, like millions of people, quarantining for the new virus stuff.



satinghostrider said:


> It might but no one really knows unless they test it over time to ensure its not a problem anymore especially so with the satin ti and white cerakoted finishes.


I have some of the black gaskets and the white ones. As far as I can tell they are the exact same material. I had the same question when I noticed my white ones were getting chewed up on the ends.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> They have a product specifically for heat transfer. Cerakote - TRANSFER GREY (AIR CURE)
> This black version also mentions thermal conductivity. Cerakote - ARCTIC BLACK (OVEN CURE)
> 
> Considering the use cases I'm aware of I'd be willing to guess that it's pretty good or at least not measurably different than the bare metal.
> 
> 
> I heard China is having entire regions, like millions of people, quarantining for the new virus stuff.
> 
> 
> I have some of the black gaskets and the white ones. As far as I can tell they are the exact same material. I had the same question when I noticed my white ones were getting chewed up on the ends.


Yeah i'm aware of the situation. I was thinking of going back to Hong Kong this summer with the rumors they were going to open up and remove all quarantine regulations. Just shocking how bad it's reached at times.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

@KedarWolf

Did you get your OPTIMUS block setup and running? You haven’t posted anything except that you didn’t have time/were lazy to put it together and received it on Wednesday.
Show us your build…


----------



## asdf893

Best orientation for cooling on the AMD CPU block on a 5950x? My ATX motherboard is in it's normal upright position. Should the inlet port be in the top, right, left, or bottom position? I realize cooling gains may be marginal from one orientation to another.


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> Best orientation for cooling on the AMD CPU block on a 5950x? My ATX motherboard is in it's normal upright position. Should the inlet port be in the top, right, left, or bottom position? I realize cooling gains may be marginal from one orientation to another.


I would keep it in standard orientation per optimus site. I tried goofy and temps are higher.


----------



## asdf893

Section31 said:


> I would keep it in standard orientation per optimus site. I tried goofy and temps are higher.


Pasted from their site. Which is the recommended orientation?


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> Pasted from their site. Which is the recommended orientation?
> View attachment 2553164


The one you see you on the website. Inlet can be Top/Bottom should be fine not left/right.


----------



## asdf893

Section31 said:


> The one you see you on the website. Inlet can be Top/Bottom should be fine not left/right.


not super helpful. do you mean this?


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

asdf893 said:


> not super helpful. do you mean this?
> 
> View attachment 2553179



That’s the correct one. Looking at this pic bottom is “INLET” and top is “OUTLET”…You can use the top as “INLET” but apparently the performance will be a bit worse. Like how much can you notice it? So optimal is when you look at the pic bottom ‘IN” top ”OUT”

I’ve noticed Section’s English is getting progressively worse over time 🥸… @Section31 you have to help him out once you started! You can’t just use a English translator and leave buddy hanging like this smh bad bad guy you are


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> That’s the correct one. Looking at this pic bottom is “INLET” and top is “OUTLET”…You can use the top as “INLET” but apparently the performance will be a bit worse. Like how much can you notice it? So optimal is when you look at the pic bottom ‘IN” top ”OUT”
> 
> I’ve noticed Section’s English is getting progressively worse over time 🥸… @Section31 you have to help him out once you started! You can’t just use a English translator and leave buddy hanging like this smh bad bad guy you are


Me, Shawnb99 are one the way out of this hobby. So our opinion don’t really matter anymore. 

Time for the likes of StAndrews, Pollywag and other recent commenters in the watercooling thread here to take over. They are the future of pc building/watercooling here.


----------



## Lobstar

asdf893 said:


> not super helpful. do you mean this?
> 
> View attachment 2553179


I don't think you understand. The only way you're switching things up is by taking apart the waterblock and rotating the top 90 degrees and reassembling it. AM4 mounting holes are rectangular so you can't rotate the block 90 degrees, only 180, thus either way you mount it water will be delivered to the same place on the cold plate and thus the IHS/CPU. As long as water goes into the part that directs flow to the center of the cold plate (in your attached image the bottom hole) you're doing it right.


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> not super helpful. do you mean this?
> 
> View attachment 2553179


That is right. Should have included the image.

My opinion is whatever you choose won’t matter in long run. Your either going to change cpu block in near future (2-4years) or your going to leave watercooling scene. 

The time frame with things globally means probably won’t be seeing much new stuff in next 1-2years imo. GPU blocks sure but other stuff probably not. Bad time to release new products but i hope watercooling companies keep up work on r&d


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> I don't think you understand. The only way you're switching things up is by taking apart the waterblock and rotating the top 90 degrees and reassembling it. AM4 mounting holes are rectangular so you can't rotate the block 90 degrees, only 180, thus either way you mount it water will be delivered to the same place on the cold plate and thus the IHS/CPU. As long as water goes into the part that directs flow to the center of the cold plate (in your attached image the bottom hole) you're doing it right.
> View attachment 2553189
> View attachment 2553190


Optimus really need an signature v3 block for am4/am5. Dust/etc is really obvious on them.


----------



## Lobstar

Section31 said:


> Optimus really need an signature v3 block for am4/am5. Dust/etc is really obvious on them.


I'm just lazy and don't give any f**ks lol. The EKWB Torque fittings are so bad with their own ZMT or even with tygon that I worry about bumping the tubing too much to clean it properly. And it's in a Dimastech wetbench laying horizontally with a 120mm notcua industrial blowing at it 24/7.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> I'm just lazy and don't give any f**ks lol. The EKWB Torque fittings are so bad with their own ZMT or even with tygon that I worry about bumping the tubing too much to clean it properly. And it's in a Dimastech wetbench laying horizontally with a 120mm notcua industrial blowing at it 24/7.


I get you there, at some point you stop caring. Hopefully there are more innovative fittings designs with high quality coming out in the near future.


----------



## KedarWolf

Section31 said:


> Me, Shawnb99 are one the way out of this hobby. So our opinion don’t really matter anymore.
> 
> Time for the likes of StAndrews, Pollywag and other recent commenters in the watercooling thread here to take over. They are the future of pc building/watercooling here.


I'm the king of lazy half azzed water cooling. Take a 360 AIO, take the block off and throw a custom block on, problem solved!


----------



## Sildrag

Anybody receive any answer to e-mail from Optimus since 11 of march?


----------



## UdoG

Nope - still waiting for an answer from the support.


----------



## iamjanco

Sildrag said:


> Anybody receive any answer to e-mail from Optimus since 11 of march?


I did, on the 17th, in response to a request I made for something they're working on for me.


----------



## Section31

UdoG said:


> Nope - still waiting for an answer from the support.


Sometimes try different email. I have heard some ppl emails were blocked or never received.


----------



## GLuE

Sildrag said:


> Anybody receive any answer to e-mail from Optimus since 11 of march?


I’ve been in touch with Optimus through email. Most replies are next day. The longest is 3 days. Make sure to have your order number in email’s subject.


----------



## liquoredonlife

Does anyone know what the two o-ring sizes are?


----------



## GLuE

liquoredonlife said:


> Does anyone know what the two o-ring sizes are?


Which o-ring?


----------



## liquoredonlife

GLuE said:


> Which o-ring?


The inner and outer ring they sell on their site: Replacement CPU O-Rings And Screws


----------



## arvinz

Got a post up on Reddit with some more shots of my build with the Optimus Strix block if anyone is interested:


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/tpwevd


----------



## Section31

arvinz said:


> Got a post up on Reddit with some more shots of my build with the Optimus Strix block if anyone is interested:
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/tpwevd


Great job. Companies need to sponsor you for future builds.


----------



## StAndrew

Section31 said:


> Me, Shawnb99 are one the way out of this hobby. So our opinion don’t really matter anymore.
> 
> Time for the likes of StAndrews, Pollywag and other recent commenters in the watercooling thread here to take over. They are the future of pc building/watercooling here.


Don't drag me into this... And recent? Have you seen my join date?


----------



## Section31

StAndrew said:


> Don't drag me into this... And recent? Have you seen my join date?


Its an compliment lol. Your recent contribution to the optimus thread are very beneficial to the hobby long term. You pointed out some serious issues we overlooked. We need more people like you.

In the whole time this thread been up not one of us really raised the issue about flow rates and how to improve it. We just poured more oil on the fire by investing into more pumps and rabbit holes like medical grade quick disconnects to get around the issues about flow restrictions overall in loops.

I would pay for your services to build an low maintenance, high flow rate with top performance rig rather than do the wild goose chase i did over last 2years (changed rads, fittings, tubing) among things. The amount that me and shawnb99 put into our rigs is ridiculous high. I threw out a lot of stuff for free during that period too lol, probably enough for an extra rig lol.


----------



## StAndrew

Section31 said:


> Its an compliment lol. Your recent contribution to the optimus thread are very beneficial to the hobby long term. You pointed out some serious issues we overlooked. We need more people like you.
> 
> In the whole time this thread been up not one of us really raised the issue about flow rates and how to improve it. We just poured more oil on the fire by investing into more pumps and rabbit holes like medical grade quick disconnects to get around the issues about flow restrictions overall in loops.
> 
> I would pay for your services to build an low maintenance, high flow rate with top performance rig rather than do the wild goose chase i did over last 2years (changed rads, fittings, tubing) among things. The amount that me and shawnb99 put into our rigs is ridiculous high. I threw out a lot of stuff for free during that period too lol, probably enough for an extra rig lol.


I wish I had the time and money to make this a full time hobby... At best I can only offer my 2cents and hope it gets through all the static and FUD going around.


----------



## Section31

StAndrew said:


> I wish I had the time and money to make this a full time hobby... At best I can only offer my 2cents and hope it gets through all the static and FUD going around.


Its possible just start an pc watercooling build side business. I’m pretty sure people will pay to avoid the pitfalls/hassles with watercooling. Just that you got to go boutique style not plain jane where buyers won’t much pay much and expect a lot for your labour.

Look at reddit watercooling and you see hot the market is. Its all about targeting the right audience, the people with so much disposable income they are willing to throw like 20k usd on an computer.

It was one of my ideas to start an business back in mid 2010’s but the market doesn’t really exist here. Sure there are descent amount of high end watercoolers here but most are diy types. That and building relationships with the suppliers takes time. They need to be able to guarantee you continuous supply vs consumer -can say delays, etc


----------



## StAndrew

Section31 said:


> Its possible just start an pc watercooling build business. I’m pretty sure people will pay to avoid the pitfalls/hassles with watercooling. Just that you got to go boutique style not plain jane where buyers won’t much/expect a lot for your labour.


Sounds like a project to undertake when I'm retired and kids are out of the house


----------



## ArchStanton

StAndrew said:


> Sounds like a project to undertake when I'm retired and kids are out of the house


Alternatively: "No Becky, you cannot go hang out with Morgan till you finish sleeving those cables"...


----------



## StAndrew

ArchStanton said:


> Alternatively: "No Becky, you cannot go hang out with Morgan till you finish sleeving those cables"...


Child labor is generally frowned upon  

Especially by my kids


----------



## MrFox

Section31 said:


> Ever feel like your reaching the end of the hobby though? Thats feeling i’ve been getting lately.


Sadly, yes. Due to circumstances beyond my control, not because I want it to end. Too much overpriced garbage, and with everything desirable being difficult to acquire in a timely manner it just adds insult to injury. Kind of takes the fun out of it, and what's the point of a hobby that isn't fun anymore? The silicon lottery was bad enough. Having to be on a buyer's lottery for your chance to buy what has fair potential to be a crappy silicon sample really sucks, too.


----------



## asdf893

Does anyone think the 3090ti waterblock looks like optimus? Did Optimus make it?

@Optimus WC will you be making any 3090ti waterblocks?


----------



## chibi

asdf893 said:


> Does anyone think the 3090ti waterblock looks like optimus? Did Optimus make it?
> 
> @Optimus WC will you be making any 3090ti waterblocks?


That's the first thing I thought too when I saw evga's new hydrocopper.


----------



## asdf893

chibi said:


> That's the first thing I thought too when I saw evga's new hydrocopper.


----------



## KedarWolf

StAndrew said:


> Child labor is generally frowned upon
> 
> Especially by my kids


Minecraft has proven that children love working in the mines, maybe abolishing child labour was a mistake?


----------



## ArchStanton

Working in the Coal Mine - YouTube


----------



## ArchStanton

Being serious for a moment, and I don't wish to steer the discussion anywhere near politics or social issues, I would like to add that I don't _feel_ that being required, from the age of 8, to wake up each morning mix up some powdered milk (man I hated the smell) and feed three to four bottle calves as being a detriment to my long-term well-being. However, I also don't feel strongly enough about such things to try and persuade others to share my point of view.


----------



## StAndrew

KedarWolf said:


> Minecraft has proven that children love working in the mines, maybe abolishing child labour was a mistake?


If only I could make sleeving cables as fun as minecraft... 

"Kids! New game! Its a Minecraft DLC called Cable Sleeving. The more cables you sleeve, the more diamonds I get. GO!"

I don't think that'll work 

@ArchStanton, I have no issues with giving chores to my kids. But if their work brings monetary gains, it would be pretty sht for me to take advantage of that. There is a thin line between building character and exploiting children 



Boy, from Optimus block discussion to keyboard to child labor, this thread needs some moral guidance.


----------



## ArchStanton

StAndrew said:


> There is a thin line between building character and exploiting children


Well said.

Edit: I eventually ate more than my share of many of those bottle calves, so it was certainly in my self-interest. Steak on demand rocks.


----------



## MrFox

asdf893 said:


> Does anyone think the 3090ti waterblock looks like optimus? Did Optimus make it?
> 
> @Optimus WC will you be making any 3090ti waterblocks?


The face of it looks very similar, and if OptimusPC has worked a deal with EVGA that could explain how little attention their retail work is getting. I hope so, but we can't see the back side. Without the active backplate cooling, that is kind of a deal-breaker. In large part, that is what makes an OptimusPC GPU block a shizzle my nizzle solution. EVGA needs to make that a standard feature on Hydro Copper.

That could be really good for other reasons, too. One of the things that really sucks about owning a Hydro Copper block is you are SOL if you need o-rings or a replacement part. EVGA does not sell them, so the Hydro Copper is a one-shot wonder solution. If you have a K|NGP|N card then you're beyond screwed. In fact, as much as I love it, I probably will never purchase another KPE GPU ever again for that very reason. They're superior, but owning a superior product that you can't use or cannot properly maintain because a 25 cent part like an o-ring is not available for purchase is pretty damned stupid, and totally unacceptable.


----------



## asdf893

MrFox said:


> The face of it looks very similar, and if OptimusPC has worked a deal with EVGA that could explain how little attention their retail work is getting. I hope so, but we can't see the back side. Without the active backplate cooling, that is kind of a deal-breaker. In large part, that is what makes an OptimusPC GPU block a shizzle my nizzle solution. EVGA needs to make that a standard feature on Hydro Copper.
> 
> That could be really good for other reasons, too. One of the things that really sucks about owning a Hydro Copper block is you are SOL if you need o-rings or a replacement part. EVGA does not sell them, so the Hydro Copper is a one-shot wonder solution. If you have a K|INGP|N card then you're beyond screwed. In fact, I probably will never purchase another KPE GPU again for that very reason. They're superior, but owning a superior product that you can't use or cannot properly maintain is pretty stupid.


do you mean the active backplate on the optimus 3090 KPE block? Otherwise a big backplate is passive cooling.


----------



## MrFox

asdf893 said:


> do you mean the active backplate on the optimus 3090 KPE block? Otherwise a big backplate is passive cooling.


Yes, active backplate (water cooled) is the way to go. You can get that from EK for reference GPUs and maybe even a FTW3. OptimusPC is the only source to get one for a 3090 K|NGP|N card. I haven't seen a photo of the back of the new Hydro Copper setup to see if it is active or passive, but the front side does look like an OptimusPC GPU block.

I have an MP5Works block on the back of my 3090 KPE. Not as good as a proper active backplate, but definitely a HUGE improvement over passive cooling.

Based on my experience with Hydro Copper (3 GPU generations) I would avoid them and only purchase a GPU that has readily accessible water block support from multiple third-party vendors. Not being able to purchase simple service parts like o-rings so you can do normal maintenance is nuts, and I don't plan on making that mistake again. 

I replaced my 2080 Ti FTW Hydro Copper block with an EKWB GPU block only because I could not purchase new o-rings from EVGA. That is truly shameful. I do not plan on ever purchasing another GPU that has a unique PCB design no matter how superior the product is for that reason. It's just not a very smart thing to do. I'd rather buy something generic and void the warranty with shunt and voltage mods and be able to buy simple things like water blocks and o-rings for it.


----------



## chibi

@MrFox - regarding the 3090 Ti, you won't necessarily _need _ an active backplate because they use 2gb memory modules. All ram chips are on the same side as the gpu die. Do I still want one? Heck yeah I do. It's an instant buy for me if/when Optimus releases them for the 3080/3090 models.


----------



## criskoe

Considering that the FTW 3090ti no longer has memory chips on the back. active back plates might not be as needed.


----------



## MrFox

chibi said:


> @MrFox - regarding the 3090 Ti, you won't necessarily _need _ an active backplate because they use 2gb memory modules. All ram chips are on the same side as the gpu die. Do I still want one? Heck yeah I do. It's an instant buy for me if/when Optimus releases them for the 3080/3090 models.





criskoe said:


> Considering that the FTW 3090ti no longer has memory chips on the back. active back plates might not be as needed.


It's not all about the memory though. Definitely not "as needed" but still essential if you want to keep the GPU core overclock running as high as possible due to the idiotic "thermal throttling" that occurs on modern GPUs that are running very cool temperature. The colder you can keep the core, the higher the clocks will stay. That is why I want a GPU sandwich. I want the chilled water keeping the temps as cold as I can possibly get them. Overclocked benching is basically all I do anymore. Very seldom any gaming, so overclocking is basically the only thing that matters to me based on how I use my system. That's also why I own the KPE GPU. It's built for that. But, my heavily modded 2080 Ti FTW3 has given the 2080 TI KPE more than enough competitive grief with shunt modding and a 2000W vBIOS. It was definitely worth voiding the warranty for, and a whole lot less money than a KPE card.


----------



## yaohanzex

Normal GPU backplate still runs hot under load even without memory chip on the backside. Active backplate is a step forward in GPU water block design. In my opinion, such a huge change in design for hydro copper block does suggest Optimus might indeed provide the design. But considering the increasing fulfilling speed of Optimus recently and Optimus' limited production, Optimus might not manufacture this hydro copper block. It's just a guess.


----------



## MrFox

yaohanzex said:


> Normal GPU backplate still runs hot under load even without memory chip on the backside. Active backplate is a step forward in GPU water block design. In my opinion, such a huge change in design for hydro copper block does suggest Optimus might indeed provide the design. But considering the increasing fulfilling speed of Optimus recently and Optimus' limited production, Optimus might not manufacture this hydro copper block. It's just a guess.


I agree. Active backplate should be a standard feature in my opinion.

Or, there is also the possibility that they are burning all of their calories on that project rather than retail customers. That would make sense... "Follow the money." But, that is just speculation.


----------



## Biggu

MrFox said:


> I agree. Active backplate should be a standard feature in my opinion.
> 
> Or, there is also the possibility that they are burning all of their calories on that project rather than retail customers. That would make sense... "Follow the money." But, that is just speculation.


I duno honestly they cant even keep up the demand when people here are per-ordering blocks I highly doubt they can support a OEM and quantities. I will give it that it does look very similar design though. Hard to tell with out more photos.


----------



## acoustic

I'd imagine any company designing the Hydrocopper would want their name shared as a partnership/co-designed product. Anyone doing that block would be silly to not get their name out there with it. I highly doubt we'll see many blocks designed for the 3090TI, given the significant difference in PCB layout.

I would be very surprised if Optimus was the block designer. I think it would be more likely EK, or even Heatkiller/WaterCool would be offered that type of contract.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I'd imagine any company designing the Hydrocopper would want their name shared as a partnership/co-designed product. Anyone doing that block would be silly to not get their name out there with it. I highly doubt we'll see many blocks designed for the 3090TI, given the significant difference in PCB layout.
> 
> I would be very surprised if Optimus was the block designer. I think it would be more likely EK, or even Heatkiller/WaterCool would be offered that type of contract.


Haven’t seen you around here in an while. Hope things going well.

I think its probably one of the other manufacturers inspired by optimus design and making more affordable version.

For optimus if they can do the b2b side more it’s probably better financially than relying on consumer like us to survive. That and it would make those aib water cards worth there value. Those aib blocked cards are cheaper than buying gpu plus water block. Potential win-win.

It would be nice if an watercooling company partnered up with intel/amd and be involved in the cpu design process in how to yield significant better cpu cooling performance as well. Future node shrinks aren’t going to get any cooler when overclocked.


----------



## MrFox

acoustic said:


> I'd imagine any company designing the Hydrocopper would want their name shared as a partnership/co-designed product. Anyone doing that block would be silly to not get their name out there with it. I highly doubt we'll see many blocks designed for the 3090TI, given the significant difference in PCB layout.
> 
> I would be very surprised if Optimus was the block designer. I think it would be more likely EK, or even Heatkiller/WaterCool would be offered that type of contract.


Sometimes co-branding is not allowed and what they want might not be what they get. It varies widely by company and how they operate. EVGA would have to agree to it since it is their product. The vendor manufacturing a component is merely a contractor. That said, there could certainly be valuable marketing benefits to co-branding if the vendor is a well-known and highly respected entity.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Haven’t seen you around here in an while. Hope things going well.
> 
> I think its probably one of the other manufacturers inspired by optimus design and making more affordable version.
> 
> For optimus if they can do the b2b side more it’s probably better financially than relying on consumer like us to survive. That and it would make those aib water cards worth there value. Those aib blocked cards are cheaper than buying gpu plus water block. Potential win-win.
> 
> It would be nice if an watercooling company partnered up with intel/amd and be involved in the cpu design process in how to yield significant better cpu cooling performance as well. Future node shrinks aren’t going to get any cooler when overclocked.


Hey! I'm good brother - I was deployed, just got back beginning of this month. I bought a house, so I've been super busy getting little things fixed and organized since I've been back. I gave my father my LG 38GL950G for helping my S/O with the big move while I was gone, so I had no monitor, which meant no point in setting the PC up. I found an open-box LG 48CX at Microcenter for $510 - total steal, and will hold me over until the 42" QD-OLED or updated OLEDs come out and have availability/better pricing. Fired the PC up last night and the loop is still mint - no issues, fired up perfectly. Currently doing all the updates, and then getting back to OCing this 12700K. Seems like the new BIOS releases since I last messed with the PC back in November have really helped with mem OC. I slapped the LGA1700 backplate and mounting kit from Heatkiller that I ordered while I was gone .. temps are sweet!

I completely agree with you on partnering up with Intel/AMD. I'd love to see a Heatkiller partnership with Intel to build direct-die watercooling out of the box! Looking at the awesome stuff SuperCool (the guys over in Thailand, if I'm not mistaken?) have come up with is awesome to see. Very innovative design that would work fantastic on a production scale.




MrFox said:


> Sometimes co-branding is not allowed and what they want might not be what they get. It varies widely by company and how they operate. EVGA would have to agree to it since it is their product. The vendor manufacturing a component is merely a contractor. That said, there could certainly be valuable marketing benefits to co-branding if the vendor is a well-known and highly respected entity.


I do agree with you on that. EVGA isn't really shy of partnerships though, so I can't imagine they'd shoot the idea down. I know what you mean, though I will argue that EVGA's reputation for the Hydrocopper has not been great in the past - I'd say the general consensus among users that are knowledgeable enough to make a judgment on the performance is that the performance is _not_ up to par given the price. I don't think EVGA would have much to lose if they announced that the waterblock was designed by xxx manufacturer, as long as it's not some random company. I just have a feeling it would end up going to EK or something, rather than the more performance-oriented brands like Optimus or Heatkiller.

As much as people **** on EK, I've had a good experience with my STRIX 3080TI block, with good WaterT delta and low Core/Hotspot delta. That's besides the point, though.


----------



## Pk1

Hey guys I know this is a bit off topic right now but I ordered a cpu and gpu block from Optimus about 2 weeks ago. Is the 3-4 weeks time frame Optimus puts on their website accurate or should I expect 2 months+ ? Thanks.

I entered the queue for 3090ti HC but I'm not sure I will do it unless it is available relatively soon.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Hey! I'm good brother - I was deployed, just got back beginning of this month. I bought a house, so I've been super busy getting little things fixed and organized since I've been back. I gave my father my LG 38GL950G for helping my S/O with the big move while I was gone, so I had no monitor, which meant no point in setting the PC up. I found an open-box LG 48CX at Microcenter for $510 - total steal, and will hold me over until the 42" QD-OLED or updated OLEDs come out and have availability/better pricing. Fired the PC up last night and the loop is still mint - no issues, fired up perfectly. Currently doing all the updates, and then getting back to OCing this 12700K. Seems like the new BIOS releases since I last messed with the PC back in November have really helped with mem OC. I slapped the LGA1700 backplate and mounting kit from Heatkiller that I ordered while I was gone .. temps are sweet!
> 
> I completely agree with you on partnering up with Intel/AMD. I'd love to see a Heatkiller partnership with Intel to build direct-die watercooling out of the box! Looking at the awesome stuff SuperCool (the guys over in Thailand, if I'm not mistaken?) have come up with is awesome to see. Very innovative design that would work fantastic on a production scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do agree with you on that. EVGA isn't really shy of partnerships though, so I can't imagine they'd shoot the idea down. I know what you mean, though I will argue that EVGA's reputation for the Hydrocopper has not been great in the past - I'd say the general consensus among users that are knowledgeable enough to make a judgment on the performance is that the performance is _not_ up to par given the price. I don't think EVGA would have much to lose if they announced that the waterblock was designed by xxx manufacturer, as long as it's not some random company. I just have a feeling it would end up going to EK or something, rather than the more performance-oriented brands like Optimus or Heatkiller.
> 
> As much as people **** on EK, I've had a good experience with my STRIX 3080TI block, with good WaterT delta and low Core/Hotspot delta. That's besides the point, though.


How did you get Optimus block to work with Watercool LGA1700 Backplate and kit


----------



## Section31

Pk1 said:


> Hey guys I know this is a bit off topic right now but I ordered a cpu and gpu block from Optimus about 2 weeks ago. Is the 3-4 weeks time frame Optimus puts on their website accurate or should I expect 2 months+ ? Thanks.
> 
> I entered the queue for 3090ti HC but I'm not sure I will do it unless it is available relatively soon.


Your best bet is to contact optimus support. They rarely show up here. We don't know much more than you.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> How did you get Optimus block to work with Watercool LGA1700 Backplate and kit


I run a Heatkiller IV Pro on the CPU. I was using the LGA1200 mounting previously.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I run a Heatkiller IV Pro on the CPU. I was using the LGA1200 mounting previously.


Make sense


----------



## Pk1

Section31 said:


> Your best bet is to contact optimus support. They rarely show up here. We don't know much more than you.


Will do. Thanks


----------



## Sir Beregond

The 3090 Tie Hydro Copper block looks suspiciously similar to an Optimus block.

Edit: Pfft...I was on the wrong page, guess others noticed that too.


----------



## satinghostrider

acoustic said:


> Hey! I'm good brother - I was deployed, just got back beginning of this month. I bought a house, so I've been super busy getting little things fixed and organized since I've been back. I gave my father my LG 38GL950G for helping my S/O with the big move while I was gone, so I had no monitor, which meant no point in setting the PC up. I found an open-box LG 48CX at Microcenter for $510 - total steal, and will hold me over until the 42" QD-OLED or updated OLEDs come out and have availability/better pricing. Fired the PC up last night and the loop is still mint - no issues, fired up perfectly. Currently doing all the updates, and then getting back to OCing this 12700K. Seems like the new BIOS releases since I last messed with the PC back in November have really helped with mem OC. I slapped the LGA1700 backplate and mounting kit from Heatkiller that I ordered while I was gone .. temps are sweet!
> 
> I completely agree with you on partnering up with Intel/AMD. I'd love to see a Heatkiller partnership with Intel to build direct-die watercooling out of the box! Looking at the awesome stuff SuperCool (the guys over in Thailand, if I'm not mistaken?) have come up with is awesome to see. Very innovative design that would work fantastic on a production scale.
> 
> I do agree with you on that. EVGA isn't really shy of partnerships though, so I can't imagine they'd shoot the idea down. I know what you mean, though I will argue that EVGA's reputation for the Hydrocopper has not been great in the past - I'd say the general consensus among users that are knowledgeable enough to make a judgment on the performance is that the performance is _not_ up to par given the price. I don't think EVGA would have much to lose if they announced that the waterblock was designed by xxx manufacturer, as long as it's not some random company. I just have a feeling it would end up going to EK or something, rather than the more performance-oriented brands like Optimus or Heatkiller.
> 
> As much as people **** on EK, I've had a good experience with my STRIX 3080TI block, with good WaterT delta and low Core/Hotspot delta. That's besides the point, though.


I'm temporarily using a spare EK block for my 3080 Ti. It's been almost 2 months since Optimus sent me wrong replacement gaskets and a replacement midplate with damaged threads. Comparing it with the Optimus block, it's a good 5-7 degree difference but my hotspots are roughly around the same.

May not be the best block, but it's reliable with no concerning issues that we should not be having in the first place with the kinda premium we are paying for this blocks. At some point, reliability seems so much more refreshing that chasing for that extra thermals is'nt worth at all after going through all this. This will definitely be my last purchase with Optimus.


----------



## careTaker79

Pk1 said:


> Hey guys I know this is a bit off topic right now but I ordered a cpu and gpu block from Optimus about 2 weeks ago. Is the 3-4 weeks time frame Optimus puts on their website accurate or should I expect 2 months+ ? Thanks.
> 
> I entered the queue for 3090ti HC but I'm not sure I will do it unless it is available relatively soon.


Ordered my GPU block in Jan2022 and I'm still waiting...Website said 4-5 weeks at that time. Think it's save to say, that you'll wait at least 8-10 weeks on the GPU block.


----------



## MrFox

I waited a little more than 16 weeks before canceling my 3090 KPE block order. Conversely, I have purchased four CPU blocks from them. All of them are amazing and the orders were processed swiftly. 

Buying a GPU with a custom/unique PCB carries the extremely negative aspect of limiting cooling options. I love my Kingpin card, but it really sucks that there are only two options for water blocks that fit it. It is an excellent product, but I do not ever plan to buy another because I don't like that limitation. My needs would be much better served with a hardware and firmware modded GPU that has a voided warranty and multple options available for water blocks. I have no regrets over the 2080 Ti FTW3 warranty being voided by mods. I'd do it again without batting an eye. It's still going strong after all the years of torment I have put it through.


----------



## careTaker79

MrFox said:


> I waited a little more than 16 weeks before canceling my 3090 KPE block order. Conversely, I have purchased four CPU blocks from them. All of them are amazing and the orders were processed swiftly.
> 
> Buying a GPU with a custom/unique PCB carries the extremely negative aspect of limiting cooling options. I love my Kingpin card, but it really sucks that there are only two options for water blocks that fit it. It is an excellent product, but I do not ever plan to buy another because I don't like that limitation. My needs would be much better served with a hardware and firmware modded GPU that has a voided warranty and multple options available for water blocks. I have no regrets over the 2080 Ti FTW3 warranty being voided by mods. I'd do it again without batting an eye. It's still going strong after all the years of torment I have put it through.


Just read you signature and I'm currently working on a new build with some resemblance to your "Wraith": MSI MEG Z690 ACE, i9-12900KF, Trident Z5 32GB DDR5-6400, EVGA 3080ti FTW3, MO-RA 420. Ordered the Optimus FTW3 block and their signature V2 (both in matte black) for performance reasons, but also because i really like the look.  Can't wait to get my hands on the blocks to start building.  the waiting is killing me....


----------



## MrFox

careTaker79 said:


> Just read you signature and I'm currently working on a new build with some resemblance to your "Wraith": MSI MEG Z690 ACE, i9-12900KF, Trident Z5 32GB DDR5-6400, EVGA 3080ti FTW3, MO-RA 420. Ordered the Optimus FTW3 block and their signature V2 (both in matte black) for performance reasons, but also because i really like the look.  Can't wait to get my hands on the blocks to start building.  the waiting is killing me....


Awesome. I am excited for you, bro. I love the look of the matte black, too.


----------



## Section31

I hope optimus restores usps shipping. Can’t use dhl anymore for canadian, they upped there processing fees from 17.50 to 25cad.


----------



## Pk1

careTaker79 said:


> Ordered my GPU block in Jan2022 and I'm still waiting...Website said 4-5 weeks at that time. Think it's save to say, that you'll wait at least 8-10 weeks on the GPU block.


Well that sucks. I guess I'll have plenty of time to prep my rads and stuff while waiting for the blocks to arrive. Make sure to let us know when yours finally arrives!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> I hope optimus restores usps shipping. Can’t use dhl anymore for canadian, they upped there processing fees from 17.50 to 25cad.


Holy crap....$25 for DHL now? Fedex/UPS are only around $12 I think. Unless they went up too?


----------



## HyperMatrix

MrFox said:


> I waited a little more than 16 weeks before canceling my 3090 KPE block order. Conversely, I have purchased four CPU blocks from them. All of them are amazing and the orders were processed swiftly.
> 
> Buying a GPU with a custom/unique PCB carries the extremely negative aspect of limiting cooling options. I love my Kingpin card, but it really sucks that there are only two options for water blocks that fit it. It is an excellent product, but I do not ever plan to buy another because I don't like that limitation. My needs would be much better served with a hardware and firmware modded GPU that has a voided warranty and multple options available for water blocks. I have no regrets over the 2080 Ti FTW3 warranty being voided by mods. I'd do it again without batting an eye. It's still going strong after all the years of torment I have put it through.


If I didn't have my KPE block yet....I'd be looking at grabbing the new 3090Ti Kingpin. In theory, even with the AIO it should be able to outperform a 3090 under water.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Holy crap....$25 for DHL now? Fedex/UPS are only around $12 I think. Unless they went up too?


They will go up but 17.50 to 25cad is when you really notice it


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> They will go up but 17.50 to 25cad is when you really notice it


If $25 becomes the norm, I'm just going to self-clear all my packages. Not giving them $25 for absolutely nothing.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> If $25 becomes the norm, I'm just going to self-clear all my packages. Not giving them $25 for absolutely nothing.


We all got to figure out some solution to minimize the damage. I already have decided on solution for keyboard side but watercooling side is going to be more creative. 

Keyboard side is now 100% shifted towards doing shipping to HK/China (since i have physical address i have access too) and just bring back myself. I got to travel back anyways to see family/friends every year anyways just matter of waiting.

Watercooling is tougher but its going back to combined orders (I got friends and there is chibi, shawnb99 out here) to split shipping/fees costs and shipping to US friends and either picking up from them or if they visit drop it off to me (treat them to meal, help them out other things). Might as get free shipping in the process.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> If I didn't have my KPE block yet....I'd be looking at grabbing the new 3090Ti Kingpin. In theory, even with the AIO it should be able to outperform a 3090 under water.


I’m not really in the loop about the 3090ti’s but you’re saying the jump is so significant for the KP cards that the 3090ti should outperform the normal 3090 even watercooled?

I thought it’s a 5% increase basically jump another money grab before the 40’s come out…


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

HyperMatrix said:


> If $25 becomes the norm, I'm just going to self-clear all my packages. Not giving them $25 for absolutely nothing.


Use “SHIPPSY” or a similar solution in your area,it’s waaaaay cheaper plus shipping is a lot faster then going directly to Canada. For me when it bets to Niagara (US) side it needs 2 business days before I can pick it up here in Mississauga,great service never had a issue or a longer wait


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I’m not really in the loop about the 3090ti’s but you’re saying the jump is so significant for the KP cards that the 3090ti should outperform the normal 3090 even watercooled?
> 
> I thought it’s a 5% increase basically jump another money grab before the 40’s come out…


Yes the 3090 Ti appears to clock better than 3090 on average. Not sure if just due to bin or change in power delivery. But jacob from EVGA did confirm that chips are binned not only for clocks but also voltage required to hit those clocks. It also has potential to clock 8% higher on memory.

In terms of pure core performance, your 3090 would have to run at 2190MHz to beat a 3090 Ti running at 2130MHz. And after that we still have the memory bandwidth issue that is going to be 8% higher on the Ti bin for bin. Not to mention no heat from memory modules on the back meaning a much easier time for blocks that don't have active backplate cooling. More of the heat is generated by the die as opposed to the vram this time around.

I think I can stay competitive with the air cooled models. But don't think I'll be able to catch up to even the AIO radiator ones. Remember it’s a 5 part upgrade. Slightly higher clocks on average + more cores. Higher memory bandwidth. Lower heat output from vram on back. Higher power limit. And much better cooling solution.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Or just wait for the 4090.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Sir Beregond said:


> Or just wait for the 4090.


That _WOULD_ make sense in a normal market. But...with resale value of cards, most people can sell their 3090 and move into the 3090 ti with little to no $$ loss if you can get one at MSRP. Secondly...can't guarantee that you'll actually be able to buy a 4090 at launch. Especially if the performance uplift really is 2-2.5x over Ampere. That'll have every single person with available $$$ or credit lines going after them. 

Also as a side note...I'd be willing to bet most people in this thread are either wealthy, or they're like me and just very financially irresponsible.


----------



## MrFox

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I’m not really in the loop about the 3090ti’s but you’re saying the jump is so significant for the KP cards that the 3090ti should outperform the normal 3090 even watercooled?
> 
> I thought it’s a 5% increase basically jump another money grab before the 40’s come out…


Yes, that entire thought process is subjective and driven based on stock/reference numbers that benefit marketing more than the end user. A 3090 Ti specs are not remarkably greater than 3090 and it feels like both a money grab and a back-stabbing show of "appreciation" for the customers that wanted the best the Green Goblin had to offer. But, the playing field is far from level. A 3090 KPE or Galax HOF GPU, both with power limits set higher than the functional capacity of the GPU and unlocked voltage that sidestep common performance impediments, have remarkably more performance potential than a reference 3090. Yes, they might perform about the same running stock, but probably not many people that spend extra money to buy card built for overclocking care that much about stock performance. Some may buy it purely for e-peen or bragging rights. At the end of the day, it's how far you can push it beyond stock that matters most.

A reference design 3090 Ti might not even offer a 5% performance bump if pitted against an unlocked enthusiast 3090 GPU when you start overclocking the crap out of the enthusiast-grade 3090. It might not even keep up. Likewise, a 3090 Ti KPE or HOF might offer more than a 10% performance bump over a typical 3090 when you break out the whip and start to punish it. We don't know and can't trust marketing nonsense to tell us what we need to know. They're only going to tell us what they want us to believe.

If all I planned to do was play games and run stock clocks, I would save a lot of money and buy a 3060.


----------



## Sir Beregond

HyperMatrix said:


> That _WOULD_ make sense in a normal market. But...with resale value of cards, most people can sell their 3090 and move into the 3090 ti with little to no $$ loss if you can get one at MSRP. Secondly...can't guarantee that you'll actually be able to buy a 4090 at launch. Especially if the performance uplift really is 2-2.5x over Ampere. That'll have every single person with available $$$ or credit lines going after them.
> 
> Also as a side note...I'd be willing to bet most people in this thread are either wealthy, or they're like me and just very financially irresponsible.


Maybe its just me, I'd actually hate to see them actually make sales on these cards. While I agree they are better cards, the price premium is a joke and this just seems to be more "testing the waters" to me for more price raises across the board next gen.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Sir Beregond said:


> Maybe its just me, I'd actually hate to see them actually make sales on these cards. While I agree they are better cards, the price premium is a joke and this just seems to be more "testing the waters" to me for more price raises across the board next gen.


Price won't go down unless we hit some kind of recession or supply glut. New investment in fabs isn't going to kick into effect for years. Demand for chips going up. If you simply account for inflation which is floating at close to 15% per year right now, then you have to expect these prices to go up. I'm not a fan of the ever increasing pricing either, don't get me wrong, but I mean is it really that much higher? The FE card is: up from $1500 to $2000. That's a massive 33% increase. But models like the FTW3 Ultra went from $1919 to $2199. That's a 14.6% price increase for the Ti over the regular 3090. But you're also getting close to 10% extra performance. It makes far more sense than the jump from the 3080 to the 3090 at launch which was like 70% more money for 15% more performance.  You could also get one of the cheaper versions like the $1999 3090 Ti FTW3 Black. Not binned as high but I mean for $80 more than the normal 3090 FTW3 Ultra I'd take it in a heartbeat.


----------



## MrFox

Sir Beregond said:


> Maybe its just me, I'd actually hate to see them actually make sales on these cards. While I agree they are better cards, the price premium is a joke and this just seems to be more "testing the waters" to me for more price raises across the board next gen.


Yes I agree with that. The more they can rape us for on the high end cards, the more they'll milk everyone on the lower tier cards. There are no good intentions anywhere in the mix.


----------



## Sir Beregond

HyperMatrix said:


> Price won't go down unless we hit some kind of recession or supply glut. New investment in fabs isn't going to kick into effect for years. Demand for chips going up. If you simply account for inflation which is floating at close to 15% per year right now, then you have to expect these prices to go up. I'm not a fan of the ever increasing pricing either, don't get me wrong, but I mean is it really that much higher? The FE card is: up from $1500 to $2000. That's a massive 33% increase. But models like the FTW3 Ultra went from $1919 to $2199. That's a 14.6% price increase for the Ti over the regular 3090. But you're also getting close to 10% extra performance. It makes far more sense than the jump from the 3080 to the 3090 at launch which was like 70% more money for 15% more performance.  You could also get one of the cheaper versions like the $1999 3090 Ti FTW3 Black. Not binned as high but I mean for $80 more than the normal 3090 FTW3 Ultra I'd take it in a heartbeat.


I'm not even talking that. Looking at the bigger picture, just look how far top cards have come in terms of cost in just 1-2 gens. That's not inflation, that's not whatever. That's testing the waters to see how much of a sucker we the consumer are. It started with the first $1k GPU...but oh that's ok because its really a "prosumer card", to where we are now where functionally the GA-102 die has been segmented away from $700 3080's and into $1100+ cards starting with the 3080 12GB, 3080 Ti, 3090, and now 3090 Ti. My local Micro Center doesn't even get 10GB 3080's anymore, they are the way more expensive 12GB versions and I am sorry a few more CUDA cores and 2 extra memory chips does not an extra $500 make.

And you can't just say that's the halo products. It influences the rest of the stack, and the rest of the stack raises in price, meanwhile the sub-$300 market stagnates in performance uplift gen over gen.

This has been a late night Sir B rant. Thanks for playing along.

On another note, setup my Blitz Part 2 loop in the bathroom this evening. That Optimus AM4 block really is a beaut.


----------



## MrFox

Sir Beregond said:


> I'm not even talking that. Looking at the bigger picture, just look how far top cards have come in terms of cost in just 1-2 gens. That's not inflation, that's not whatever. That's testing the waters to see how much of a sucker we the consumer are. It started with the first $1k GPU...but oh that's ok because its really a "prosumer card", to where we are now where functionally the GA-102 die has been segmented away from $700 3080's and into $1100+ cards starting with the 3080 12GB, 3080 Ti, 3090, and now 3090 Ti. My local Micro Center doesn't even get 10GB 3080's anymore, they are the way more expensive 12GB versions and I am sorry a few more CUDA cores and 2 extra memory chips does not an extra $500 make.
> 
> And you can't just say that's the halo products. It influences the rest of the stack, and the rest of the stack raises in price, meanwhile the sub-$300 market stagnates in performance uplift gen over gen.
> 
> This has been a late night Sir B rant. Thanks for playing along.
> 
> On another note, setup my Blitz Part 2 loop in the bathroom this evening. That Optimus AM4 block really is a beaut.


Yup... 100%. And, we've facilitated our own fleecing by going along with it and voluntarily submitting ourselves to be raped. I am including myself in this accusation. It is the same thing with laptops. As everything moved to being soldered and emasculated, disposable feces everyone made excuses and rationalize it as somehow being necessary, or mysteriously a good thing, or because of blah, blah, blah. blah, blah, blah, blah. We will always have nothing better than what the sheeple are willing to put up with. Companies are in business to make money. Period. If they can't make money doing it their way, they'll pull their head out and do it the right way if we demand it. Or, they'll go out of business (which is a good option, too, if they produce trash). We all need to strive more toward not being one of the lowest common denominators that totally ruin everything for the rest of the population. Lowest common denominators are the target market, and until that segment shrinks to a size that is too small to sustain business we can expect worse, not better.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> That _WOULD_ make sense in a normal market. But...with resale value of cards, most people can sell their 3090 and move into the 3090 ti with little to no $$ loss if you can get one at MSRP. Secondly...can't guarantee that you'll actually be able to buy a 4090 at launch. Especially if the performance uplift really is 2-2.5x over Ampere. That'll have every single person with available $$$ or credit lines going after them.
> 
> Also as a side note...I'd be willing to bet most people in this thread are either wealthy, or they're like me and just very financially irresponsible.


With everything going on, people are genuinely watching there wallets more if they weren’t before. No matter where they are in life financially. I don’t see so many people diving headfirst into these things.

You already are seeing signs where the resale market is cooling everywhere that it’s not wise attempt the to sell and then upgrade at msrp with minimal to no loss, Scalping will always exist but just be careful what you target.

Though they are milking us, I would expect in an recession, etc the prices will jump even worse. Material costs are already jumping a lot across the board and is all other associated costs. Only way for prices to come down is with other correction in the overall financial system that’s out of our control.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Use “SHIPPSY” or a similar solution in your area,it’s waaaaay cheaper plus shipping is a lot faster then going directly to Canada. For me when it bets to Niagara (US) side it needs 2 business days before I can pick it up here in Mississauga,great service never had a issue or a longer wait


Smart of you to exit these sort of money sinkhole hobbies. Any luck in selling your rig so far?


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Section31 said:


> Smart of you to exit these sort of money sinkhole hobbies. Any luck in selling your rig so far?


Nope nothing serious yet,had a few good offers but they were “Yo bruv”…I’m def not selling to a “yo bruv” mofo! I’d rather throw it in the garbage then give it to some 20 year old ****** who’ll eff it up in 3 days…also had 3 guys wanting it but then “So what if it leaks or I want to change stuff,how am I supposed to do the tubes in matte black idk how to do it?”. I’m not here to babysit you,either buy it and handle stuff yourself or piss off,simple as that.

I’m going soon out of Canada and I’m 90% sure I won’t be coming back so I don’t need a pc and second thing is there’s nothing anymore that really gets me excited regarding building. I have the best of the best and sure I can upgrade every time something new comes out but then again I’m not in the mood hustling around if I can get it or not and waiting months for it ain’t it either. Idk I just lost the motivation for building pc’s,thought if the Lian-Li V3000+ comes out I’ll grab it and redo the tubes,add 2 more pumps and enjoy building from scratch but that case looks like s..t I’m not buying that rgb crap gun metal fake black crap.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Nope nothing serious yet,had a few good offers but they were “Yo bruv”…I’m def not selling to a “yo bruv” mofo! I’d rather throw it in the garbage then give it to some 20 year old **** who’ll eff it up in 3 days…also had 3 guys wanting it but then “So what if it leaks or I want to change stuff,how am I supposed to do the tubes in matte black idk how to do it?”. I’m not here to babysit you,either buy it and handle stuff yourself or piss off,simple as that.
> 
> I’m going soon out of Canada and I’m 90% sure I won’t be coming back so I don’t need a pc and second thing is there’s nothing anymore that really gets me excited regarding building. I have the best of the best and sure I can upgrade every time something new comes out but then again I’m not in the mood hustling around if I can get it or not and waiting months for it ain’t it either. Idk I just lost the motivation for building pc’s,thought if the Lian-Li V3000+ comes out I’ll grab it and redo the tubes,add 2 more pumps and enjoy building from scratch but that case looks like s..t I’m not buying that rgb crap gun metal fake black crap.


Typical PC buyers lol. Issue with wtatercooling pc's - buyers expect warranty service lol. It's an diy thing if you enter it, you fix it yourself. I think you can just rebuild an pc wherever you go whenever you want. Just enjoy your life and whenever you want to re-enter then build up one with the best stuff out there.

Truly smart of you to leave Canada. I wish i could do the same lol.


----------



## tcclaviger

Second Optimus block arrived, this time in shiny format. New GPU block is nickel so figured I'd match instead of having a copper CPU block with nickel GPU.

Slotted the top of your thumb screws so I can use a flat head and balance torque properly...."finger tight" torque spec is **** imho.

Going to call you on this Optimus, you've increased your feed rates or cut depth (or both) on the Plexi machining...my older block from the intial release batch had zero machine markings, this one has visible tool path marks inside the Plexi. Not a big deal, but it's noticed.








Did some lapping, 220 step:








2000 step :







Forgot final photo of post polish doh....

Anyway, 3.25c improvement vs non-lapped Jet oring removed. Same TIM, same loop, same water temp, same exact load (OCCT 32t, small, static, extreme, SSE) 240 watts.

Using conductonaut at 0.9GPM I'm observing a 47c delta from water to Tctl/Tdie at 240 watts, or 0.1958 c/w transfer improved from 0.2041 c/w.

High power testing pending, previously 300 watts in OCCT was hitting 60-62c Tctl/Tdie to water deltas, a bit higher than I like.


----------



## tcclaviger

Small follow up.

OCCT SSE, small, static, extreme, 32thread testing:

Static clocks
180 watt c/w = 0.1772
260 watt c/w = 0.201

PBO at 300/170/210
200 watt c/w = 0.1918

PBO at 142/95/140 but still CO tuned
125 watt c/w = 0.1824 (TDC limited)

Worst case, full 32t AVX2 fit limited PBO still only achieved peak delta of 200w/40c water/core so flat 0.2 c/w on AVX2 is quite good.

Still outstanding. On an ambient loop with 25c water, fairly typical, PBO enabled with CO tuned on stock power limits it would keep all core loads under 48c. As is, on chilled, it keeps it at 36c with coolant above dew point lol.

Looks like the internal transfer at high power remains the biggest bottleneck to thermal performance on the 5950x, and lapping really only helps up to around 240 watts, after that it starts to fall off the thermal conductivity cliff.

Went looking at GN review for air-cooler and AIOs for the lols. 198w load saw a delta T of 56.9c, or 0.2873 c/w for best air-cooler on the chart. Best AIO showed 47.8c, or 0.2414 c/w. Still stand by air cooling is not good enough for Ryzen and anyone thinking AIOs match proper custom loops is deluding themselves.


----------



## Lobstar

tcclaviger said:


> Second Optimus block arrived, this time in shiny format. New GPU block is nickel so figured I'd match instead of having a copper CPU block with nickel GPU.
> 
> Slotted the top of your thumb screws so I can use a flat head and balance torque properly...."finger tight" torque spec is **** imho.
> 
> Going to call you on this Optimus, you've increased your feed rates or cut depth (or both) on the Plexi machining...my older block from the intial release batch had zero machine markings, this one has visible tool path marks inside the Plexi. Not a big deal, but it's noticed.
> View attachment 2554184
> 
> 
> Did some lapping, 220 step:
> 
> View attachment 2554183
> 
> 2000 step :
> View attachment 2554185
> 
> Forgot final photo of post polish doh....
> 
> Anyway, 3.25c improvement vs non-lapped Jet oring removed. Same TIM, same loop, same water temp, same exact load (OCCT 32t, small, static, extreme, SSE) 240 watts.
> 
> Using conductonaut at 0.9GPM I'm observing a 47c delta from water to Tctl/Tdie at 240 watts, or 0.1958 c/w transfer improved from 0.2041 c/w.
> 
> High power testing pending, previously 300 watts in OCCT was hitting 60-62c Tctl/Tdie to water deltas, a bit higher than I like.


Hey there fellow 5950x warranty-voider! Not polished but really high grit for quite a while:


----------



## careTaker79

Lobstar said:


> Can I use this with my EVGA 3090 FTW3U and the Optimus Absolute?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RTX 3080 / 3090 Cooling Plate | RTX GPU Memory Cooling Solutions
> 
> 
> Copper memory cooling plate for most 3080, 3080ti, 3090 GPUs -- this takes place of the thermal pads and uses thermal paste between the memory and the cooling plate, as well as thermal paste between the cooling plate and the GPU heatsink assembly.Fits MOST 3080, 3080ti, and 3090 GPUs...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.coolmygpu.com


Any luck in this one? My Optimus Block should arrive sometime this year  and If this is a valid Option to further improve temps I'd buy one...


----------



## criskoe

careTaker79 said:


> Any luck in this one? My Optimus Block should arrive sometime this year  and If this is a valid Option to further improve temps I'd buy one...


Those wont work with a optimus block. The tolerances are much smaller on the optimus block and the thermal pads are very thin. 

Those things are for GPUs with much larger thermal pad gaps....


----------



## careTaker79

criskoe said:


> Those wont work with a optimus block. The tolerances are much smaller on the optimus block and the thermal pads are very thin.
> 
> Those things are for GPUs with much larger thermal pad gaps....


Thank you!


----------



## BMDJag

tcclaviger said:


> Second Optimus block arrived, this time in shiny format. New GPU block is nickel so figured I'd match instead of having a copper CPU block with nickel GPU.
> 
> Slotted the top of your thumb screws so I can use a flat head and balance torque properly...."finger tight" torque spec is **** imho.
> 
> Going to call you on this Optimus, you've increased your feed rates or cut depth (or both) on the Plexi machining...my older block from the intial release batch had zero machine markings, this one has visible tool path marks inside the Plexi. Not a big deal, but it's noticed.
> View attachment 2554184
> 
> 
> Did some lapping, 220 step:
> 
> View attachment 2554183
> 
> 2000 step :
> View attachment 2554185
> 
> Forgot final photo of post polish doh....
> 
> Anyway, 3.25c improvement vs non-lapped Jet oring removed. Same TIM, same loop, same water temp, same exact load (OCCT 32t, small, static, extreme, SSE) 240 watts.
> 
> Using conductonaut at 0.9GPM I'm observing a 47c delta from water to Tctl/Tdie at 240 watts, or 0.1958 c/w transfer improved from 0.2041 c/w.
> 
> High power testing pending, previously 300 watts in OCCT was hitting 60-62c Tctl/Tdie to water deltas, a bit higher than I like.


Any idea if that block is coated with Cerakote? I asked a few times after the point where they said the entire product line would be switched over and they said the satin color had not been transitioned over. I asked them recently a few times and I guess they don't have time to answer?

Thanks


----------



## elbramso

StAndrew said:


> The 45* fitting is what I'm planning on using. I grabbed a couple of random fittings. Looks like another mm of blockage for a 'standard' depth fitting.
> View attachment 2552352
> 
> 
> But here is something that made me laugh, at the bottom of the intake port, before it reaches the jet, there is a 45* ramp/lip at the bottom...
> 
> View attachment 2552357
> 
> 
> This is why we need people like Martin and Skinee back in the community; to help manufactures understand waterblocks design. Sure, by CNC brute force, they can make a waterblock perform well but there is a lot more to a waterblock than just the fins. They realy need to go back to the drawing boards on the block top and find a better flow design...
> 
> I'm pretty sure I'm returning this block


Here is my own little research on how flow-rate affects the delta t Water to CPU (CoreMax) @ 244W:
100lph: 25,4C Water-> 81c CoreMax
150lph: 25,6c Water-> 79c CoreMax
210lph: 25,6c Water-> 80c CoreMax
265lph: 25,7c Water-> 79c CoreMax

cross check:
150lph: 26c Water-> 80c CoreMax


----------



## tcclaviger

elbramso said:


> Here is my own little research on how flow-rate effects the delta t Water to CPU (CoreMax) @ 244W:
> 100lph: 25,4C Water-> 81c CoreMax
> 150lph: 25,6c Water-> 79c CoreMax
> 210lph: 25,6c Water-> 80c CoreMax
> 265lph: 25,7c Water-> 79c CoreMax
> 
> cross check:
> 150lph: 26c Water-> 80c CoreMax


Similar to my own experience, there's a small difference but nothing major between 220lph and 160lph.



BMDJag said:


> Any idea if that block is coated with Cerakote? I asked a few times after the point where they said the entire product line would be switched over and they said the satin color had not been transitioned over. I asked them recently a few times and I guess they don't have time to answer?
> 
> Thanks


The block is still definitely nickel, the bracket seems to be cerakoted or some other durable paint.


----------



## BMDJag

tcclaviger said:


> The block is still definitely nickel, the bracket seems to be cerakoted or some other durable paint.


The bracket is what I actually meant so thank You for clarifying and confirming for me!


----------



## Sir Beregond

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Nope nothing serious yet,had a few good offers but they were “Yo bruv”…I’m def not selling to a “yo bruv” mofo!


What the hell is a "bruv"?


----------



## chibi

Sir Beregond said:


> What the hell is a "bruv"?


UK slang equivalent to a "bro"


----------



## ArchStanton

chibi said:


> UK slang equivalent to a "bro"


And the teen/young adult crowd here in the United States seems to have replaced "bro" with "brah" (pronounced just like the supportive garment) for some reason I cannot fathom, though I presume the reason(s) is related to the fact that I cannot fathom it. 🤷‍♂️


----------



## dwolvin

Brah is ancient surfer lingo that's creeped into through the midwest culture (imho/ymmv). But how about those waterblocks!


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Sir Beregond said:


> What the hell is a "bruv"?


Pretty much what Chibi said, received a message with “bruv” and had to google *** that is thought it‘s ”bro” but haven’t seen it yet.
We are living in very weird times


----------



## Sir Beregond

ArchStanton said:


> And the teen/young adult crowd here in the United States seems to have replaced "bro" with "brah" (pronounced just like the supportive garment) for some reason I cannot fathom, though I presume the reason(s) is related to the fact that I cannot fathom it. 🤷‍♂️


7 years ago, I worked with a guy in his 30's who talked like that. I am in may 30's now. I couldn't take him seriously then and I certainly wouldn't now.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Sir Beregond said:


> 7 years ago, I worked with a guy in his 30's who talked like that. I am in may 30's now. I couldn't take him seriously then and I certainly wouldn't now.


Whoever says bro or brah I don’t take seriously. Sometimes when I’m in the gym and people are close by and talk loudly you have those “in 1 sentence 15 times brah” guys it‘s cringe as hell.
Even worse is when girls/women say “Liiiiike bro,bro seriously like….” 

Btw I’m in my 30’s aswell


----------



## Sir Beregond

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Whoever says bro or brah I don’t take seriously. Sometimes when I’m in the gym and people are close by and talk loudly you have those “in 1 sentence 15 times brah” guys it‘s cringe as hell.
> Even worse is when girls/women say “Liiiiike bro,bro seriously like….”
> 
> Btw I’m in my 30’s aswell


That's what he'd do too, while thinking he was some big know it all, meanwhile he was brand new to the job. You'd try to teach him something and he'd just respond: "Like bro, its not like that bro, its like this brah, it works like this brah." 

Umm no it doesn't, and I'm not your "bro". Shut up and maybe learn something. Also, you aren't 15 anymore. Maybe graduate your vocabulary.


----------



## chibi

YOOO IT's YOUR BOI CHIBI, HOW's IT GOING YOUTUBE FAM. BEFORE WE BEGIN, LET'S TAKE A FEW TO SHOUT OUT FOR TODAY'S VIDEO SPONSOR. ALRIGHT, WE GOT THAT OUTTA THE WAY, BE SURE TO LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE YO!!! <333

These turds are all from the same bucket. Sometimes I go down the youtube rabbit hole and come across one of those intro's it's insta remove channel from feed. Especially the turds that need to shout/rap at you for their videos. Just speak normally for goodness sake.


----------



## Sir Beregond

chibi said:


> YOOO IT's *YOUR BOI* CHIBI, HOW's IT GOING YOUTUBE FAM. BEFORE WE BEGIN, LET'S TAKE A FEW TO SHOUT OUT FOR TODAY'S VIDEO SPONSOR. ALRIGHT, WE GOT THAT OUTTA THE WAY, BE SURE TO LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE YO!!! <333
> 
> These turds are all from the same bucket. Sometimes I go down the youtube rabbit hole and come across one of those intro's it's insta remove channel from feed. Especially the turds that need to shout/rap at you for their videos. Just speak normally for goodness sake.


Silver lining: Well at least they correctly identify as a boy as opposed to a man.


----------



## Lobstar

Yo, I'm closer to 50 than most of you and this place sounds like a retirement community right now rofl.


----------



## ArchStanton

@Lobstar I can find a young person to supply the requisite "shut up Boomer" for us curmudgeons if you wish?


----------



## dwolvin

Thank you, just hit 53 and was thinking the same. Hell, I work with kids that speak like kids who are amazingly professional.

Edit: @ArchStanton ROFL!


----------



## Sir Beregond

Lobstar said:


> Yo, I'm closer to 50 than most of you and this place sounds like a retirement community right now rofl.


Yeah ok, I leaned into the joke a little bit with the Clint Eastwood pic.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

chibi said:


> YOOO IT's YOUR BOI CHIBI, HOW's IT GOING YOUTUBE FAM. BEFORE WE BEGIN, LET'S TAKE A FEW TO SHOUT OUT FOR TODAY'S VIDEO SPONSOR. ALRIGHT, WE GOT THAT OUTTA THE WAY, BE SURE TO LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE YO!!! <333
> 
> These turds are all from the same bucket. Sometimes I go down the youtube rabbit hole and come across one of those intro's it's insta remove channel from feed. Especially the turds that need to shout/rap at you for their videos. Just speak normally for goodness sake.


2 days ago while playing “WW3” online in the enemies team there was a guy named “CHIBI”…I immediately wrote him ”Are you the REAL Chibi from OCN?”
He said no and what do you mean with real Chibi?
So I told him the real true Chibi lives in OCN you’re just a lame fake copy of the real one…

Thought it was you for a second but apparently it wasn’t,would’ve been great 👍


----------



## Sir Beregond

chibi said:


> BE SURE TO LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE YO!!! <333


I think the kids are saying to "smash that like button" now.


----------



## HyperMatrix

All y'all grumpy old men being angry at "the youths" making me feel young over here. Haha.


----------



## KedarWolf

HyperMatrix said:


> All y'all grumpy old men being angry at "the youths" making me feel young over here. Haha.


My young coworker told me, "I see dead people. Oh wait, you're just really old."


----------



## iamjanco

ok, i'll admit it. i'm probably the oldest one here and a boomer who's learned everything he knows about today's younger generations from family guy.


----------



## GLuE

Optimus Kingpin waterblock


----------



## acoustic

Just got done putting together the CPU after a delid/relid with Copper IHS from RockItCool. Used CoolLabs Liquid Pro on the die, and KPx on the Copper IHS. Didn't want to use LM for the TIM since the copper IHS won't like that much and I have a nickel-plated block. I dunno, just didn't seem right.

Went from 72-75c hottest core in Y-Cruncher down to 62c max on the hottest core, and this is with fresh liquid.

I tore down the entire loop yesterday and went through cleaning. I was noticing slightly (10lph, nothing major) lower flow-rate. When I put the 12700K in, I had broken open the Heatkiller IV Pro and noticed a tiny bit of green build up in the very center of the microfins. I cleaned it and due to lack of time, did not investigate further. Well since I was pulling the block off, I decided to fix up a tube-run or two, and make some minor adjustments.. broke down the Heatkiller again and there was more green-ish buildup. I run distilled with 900ml to 100ml Mayhem's XT-1 Nuke Clear concentrate, for reference.

I pulled out both rads and flushed them out with hot water and then some distilled. The liquid that came out of both had a green-ish tint (this was not noticed in the reservoir at all, liquid was clear), and while draining from the drain-port, I noticed black .. flakes? I was worried my EPDM tubing was breaking down or something. Flushed some distilled through the tubing and nothing came out.

Looks like I got it all out. I didn't have thermal pads to replace on the GPU in-case I tore any, so I left the GPU alone. I've been keeping an eye on the WaterT to see if it has any issues or signs of build-up, but seems fine so far.


----------



## Section31

Lobstar said:


> Yo, I'm closer to 50 than most of you and this place sounds like a retirement community right now rofl.


Optimus just needs to get production times up and release new products lol. It’s been an year and those in development fittings even are dead silent.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Just got done putting together the CPU after a delid/relid with Copper IHS from RockItCool. Used CoolLabs Liquid Pro on the die, and KPx on the Copper IHS. Didn't want to use LM for the TIM since the copper IHS won't like that much and I have a nickel-plated block. I dunno, just didn't seem right.
> 
> Went from 72-75c hottest core in Y-Cruncher down to 62c max on the hottest core, and this is with fresh liquid.
> 
> I tore down the entire loop yesterday and went through cleaning. I was noticing slightly (10lph, nothing major) lower flow-rate. When I put the 12700K in, I had broken open the Heatkiller IV Pro and noticed a tiny bit of green build up in the very center of the microfins. I cleaned it and due to lack of time, did not investigate further. Well since I was pulling the block off, I decided to fix up a tube-run or two, and make some minor adjustments.. broke down the Heatkiller again and there was more green-ish buildup. I run distilled with 900ml to 100ml Mayhem's XT-1 Nuke Clear concentrate, for reference.
> 
> I pulled out both rads and flushed them out with hot water and then some distilled. The liquid that came out of both had a green-ish tint (this was not noticed in the reservoir at all, liquid was clear), and while draining from the drain-port, I noticed black .. flakes? I was worried my EPDM tubing was breaking down or something. Flushed some distilled through the tubing and nothing came out.
> 
> Looks like I got it all out. I didn't have thermal pads to replace on the GPU in-case I tore any, so I left the GPU alone. I've been keeping an eye on the WaterT to see if it has any issues or signs of build-up, but seems fine so far.


You bought watercool rads right? The black stuff most likely from it.

Whenever i do maintenance i might do an delid and apply liquid metal.

Order some replacement from Optimus, its decent deal if you ask me for big piece of thermal material .


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> You bought watercool rads right? The black stuff most likely from it.
> 
> Order some replacement from Optimus, its decent deal if you ask me for big piece of thermal material .


I do have the Watercool rads, yeah. I flushed them with hot water when I bought them. Could have loosened up over time I guess!

I have an EK block for my 3080TI STRIX, so not sure if the thermal pad is the same sized mm. I have some leftovers for the backplate but I was mostly worried about the front of the card around the memory chips.

Definitely like the Copper IHS from RockItCool - worth the $60 it cost without a doubt.


----------



## Sir Beregond

If it didn't look like a growth of some kind, was likely crud from the radiators accumulating on the micro fins. I know there are different philosophies on this, but I really don't think just flushing with hot water when new is sufficient cleaning for most radiators.

But then you also said the drained coolant had a green tinge to it? Not sure there.


----------



## acoustic

The drained coolant had the black flakes - likely from the rad. The liquid that came out of the rads when I disconnected them and shook them out had the slightly green tint. It's weird that the fluid visible in the reservoir did not reflect it.

I don't like the idea of flushing tons of chemicals through the rads. This is a minor inconvenience and performance was not lost - I just noticed a small drop in flow-rate, and that's what tipped me off.


----------



## ArchStanton

@acoustic Apologies if you have stated elsewhere and I missed it, ZMT for tubing by chance?


----------



## dwolvin

acoustic said:


> Just got done putting together the CPU after a delid/relid with Copper IHS from RockItCool. Used CoolLabs Liquid Pro on the die, and KPx on the Copper IHS. Didn't want to use LM for the TIM since the copper IHS won't like that much and I have a nickel-plated block. I dunno, just didn't seem right.
> 
> Went from 72-75c hottest core in Y-Cruncher down to 62c max on the hottest core, and this is with fresh liquid.
> 
> I tore down the entire loop yesterday and went through cleaning. I was noticing slightly (10lph, nothing major) lower flow-rate. When I put the 12700K in, I had broken open the Heatkiller IV Pro and noticed a tiny bit of green build up in the very center of the microfins. I cleaned it and due to lack of time, did not investigate further. Well since I was pulling the block off, I decided to fix up a tube-run or two, and make some minor adjustments.. broke down the Heatkiller again and there was more green-ish buildup. I run distilled with 900ml to 100ml Mayhem's XT-1 Nuke Clear concentrate, for reference.
> 
> I pulled out both rads and flushed them out with hot water and then some distilled. The liquid that came out of both had a green-ish tint (this was not noticed in the reservoir at all, liquid was clear), and while draining from the drain-port, I noticed black .. flakes? I was worried my EPDM tubing was breaking down or something. Flushed some distilled through the tubing and nothing came out.
> 
> Looks like I got it all out. I didn't have thermal pads to replace on the GPU in-case I tore any, so I left the GPU alone. I've been keeping an eye on the WaterT to see if it has any issues or signs of build-up, but seems fine so far.


Good luck! I really think someone should make a good low~ish restriction filter, they'd make a (probably tiny) killing...


----------



## ArchStanton

dwolvin said:


> I really think someone should make a good low~ish restriction filter


Say hello to my little friend.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> If it didn't look like a growth of some kind, was likely crud from the radiators accumulating on the micro fins. I know there are different philosophies on this, but I really don't think just flushing with hot water when new is sufficient cleaning for most radiators.
> 
> But then you also said the drained coolant had a green tinge to it? Not sure there.


Probably. Chibi spent long time cleaning watercool rads.


----------



## Section31

ArchStanton said:


> @acoustic Apologies if you have stated elsewhere and I missed it, ZMT for tubing by chance?


zmt is not great qc. Its epdm or tygon for tubing. I have used zmt, its main issue is that you can’t even fit the compression lids of ekwb torque lol. I threw them out and bought expensive tygon.


----------



## acoustic

ArchStanton said:


> @acoustic Apologies if you have stated elsewhere and I missed it, ZMT for tubing by chance?


Watercool EPDM.

I'm suspecting all of the stuff I seen during the drain is from the radiators - they're about a year old now, so anything that didn't loosen up when I did the original clean, must have loosened up over a year of heat-cycling. The PC also sat for ~4months without being ran at all, so that couldn't have helped.


----------



## Sir Beregond

acoustic said:


> Watercool EPDM.
> 
> I'm suspecting all of the stuff I seen during the drain is from the radiators - they're about a year old now, so anything that didn't loosen up when I did the original clean, must have loosened up over a year of heat-cycling. The PC also sat for ~4months without being ran at all, so that couldn't have helped.


Yeah makes sense with the rads.

Oh...sat for 4 months? Yeah could have had something growing then, hence the green tinge? I just recently drained and tore down a loop that was in use for 18 months (about 12 months longer than intended, but I digress). The inhibitor/biocides had definitely wore off and the insides of my tubing was covered in a green film. Was using Mayhems X1 clear.

For context: was supposed to be a temporary loop till I built the new rig, but we all know how 2021 was for getting parts + some other priorities came up.

Anyway, I'll be using ModMyMods Modwater clear for the new loop which is functionally Mayhems XT-1. I will also be looking at picking up some Mayhems Biocide and Inhibitor drops to refresh the coolant every 6-ish months.


----------



## ArchStanton

Section31 said:


> zmt is not great qc. Its epdm or tygon for tubing. I have used zmt, its main issue is that you can’t even fit the compression lids *without fighting like hell* of ekwb torque lol.


100% agreement (with my minor edit to what I quoted ). ZMT should actually be labeled EMT (Extra Maintenance Tubing) 🤣. I have it. I am still using it. I will never buy more. I run the inline filter I posted a picture of previously to capture all the crap it introduces to my loop (filter is just upstream of my CPU block).


----------



## Lobstar

acoustic said:


> I was worried my EPDM tubing was breaking down or something.


I had this same thing. EPDM can be used with pretty extreme chemicals so it might be some junk from the tubing. I also had black flakes from my Koolance QDC fittings that might have got in there. There was also some flux or something in my Mo-Ra 3 that could have flushed through even though I used Blitz 1 and 2.



Section31 said:


> zmt is not great qc. Its epdm or tygon for tubing. I have used zmt, its main issue is that you can’t even fit the compression lids of ekwb torque lol. I threw them out and bought expensive tygon.


I had exactly this issue. Some of it will also not compress in the fitting so it just slips out with a bump. It's literally the worst of both worlds.


----------



## HyperMatrix

So I decided to push the KPE block on the 3090 to see what it could do for 24/7 gaming. It does a damn good job. Too bad I haven't connected my no-ra3s yet. Water temps were hitting 35C before the block after a couple hours of gaming.

3 hours straight stress testing cyberpunk at native 4K without DLSS and with rtx psycho. Average 650W draw. 2205MHz. No crash. That's +210 on the core. Memory at 22222MHz. 1.225V. Wish I had trusted the block and done it sooner. Haha. I really just wanted to be able to hit that 2200+ mark for actual 24/7 gaming. 3090 Ti release finally had me go for it. Just need those mo-ra3 to be added now for an 8-10C drop in temp. 

With the current setup maximum GPU hotspot temp was 54C and memory junction max was 56C. Not terrible for 35-38C water temps. This 2205MHz with 0 dips/throttling.


----------



## elbramso

HyperMatrix said:


> So I decided to push the KPE block on the 3090 to see what it could do for 24/7 gaming. It does a damn good job. Too bad I haven't connected my no-ra3s yet. Water temps were hitting 35C before the block after a couple hours of gaming.
> 
> 3 hours straight stress testing cyberpunk at native 4K without DLSS and with rtx psycho. Average 650W draw. 2205MHz. No crash. That's +210 on the core. Memory at 22222MHz. 1.225V. Wish I had trusted the block and done it sooner. Haha. I really just wanted to be able to hit that 2200+ mark for actual 24/7 gaming. 3090 Ti release finally had me go for it. Just need those mo-ra3 to be added now for an 8-10C drop in temp.
> 
> With the current setup maximum GPU hotspot temp was 54C and memory junction max was 56C. Not terrible for 35-38C water temps. This 2205MHz with 0 dips/throttling.
> 
> View attachment 2554895


So u get an 9c delta Water to GPU @ 670w?
That's the best mount of a block ever, respect!
I'm at a delta of ~ 12-13 at the same load


----------



## HyperMatrix

elbramso said:


> So u get an 9c delta Water to GPU @ 670w?
> That's the best mount of a block ever, respect!
> I'm at a delta of ~ 12-13 at the same load


If you remember…I had a uhm…”notoriously good” mount pressure situation when the block first came out. Haha. I’m also assuming you’re not using LM?


----------



## elbramso

HyperMatrix said:


> If you remember…I had a uhm…”notoriously good” mount pressure situation when the block first came out. Haha. I’m also assuming you’re not using LM?


HAHA, yeah I remember - u were the pioneer of Optimus Block mounting^^
I'm using LM


----------



## HyperMatrix

elbramso said:


> HAHA, yeah I remember - u were the pioneer of Optimus Block mounting^^
> I'm using LM


That’s very odd then. Have you tried applying LM more liberally and remounting with a little extra tightening? Don’t try to avoid all flexing in the card/block. A little bit of flex can be good.


----------



## elbramso

HyperMatrix said:


> That’s very odd then. Have you tried applying LM more liberally and remounting with a little extra tightening? Don’t try to avoid all flexing in the card/block. A little bit of flex can be good.


Although I'd love to get a better result, bench season is over here. I just tested and am at ~10c @ 610w - not too bad but not perfect either.
I could go for a bit more tightening I guess but the 4 die screws a tight af already ;-)

btw. I'm already seeing the rear pad squishing out, so I don't want to give it more pressure


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

elbramso said:


> btw. I'm already seeing the rear pad squishing out, so I don't want to give it more pressure


“*So I don’t want to give it more pressure*”

Exactly that sentence is why you’ll always only be a average guy and never be a LEGEND like @HyperMatrix and have under 10c delta…
That guy pushes and pressures stuff to the edge (could be because of stupidity we don’t know,but we do know it ****ing works),guess he’s just built different! 😜






btw I’m joking


----------



## ArchStanton

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> btw I’m joking


Sneaky bastard.

edit: Help! I'm the only post on the page of the beast 👿.


----------



## elbramso

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> “*So I don’t want to give it more pressure*”
> 
> Exactly that sentence is why you’ll always only be a average guy and never be a LEGEND like @HyperMatrix and have under 10c delta…
> That guy pushes and pressures stuff to the edge (could be because of stupidity we don’t know,but we do know it ****ing works),guess he’s just built different! 😜
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw I’m joking


I'm an average Joe block mounter but still you all have my port royal dust in your eyes 😂🤣

If I knew how to mount a block I'd be past 17k for sure 🤔😉

This is absolutely the right page number for such a post


----------



## HyperMatrix

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> could be because of stupidity we don’t know


I mean if stupidity is what's required for better thermals...Haha. Looking at the cost of my PC/cooling setup, it'd be hard to argue that I'm not stupid. Not including blocks or any PC components, so basically only case/rads/reservoirs/pumps/fans/controllers/fittings/quickconnects...I'm sitting at around $9800 CAD. That includes 2x mo-ra3 of course. So stupidity is definitely part of my repertoir. Haha.


----------



## elbramso

I justed tested my gpu to water delta @640w again. 
It's pretty much 11,5c.
In regards of pcb bending / flexing: 
I absolutely disagree. I think if bending or flexing occurs it's a design flaw!


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> I mean if stupidity is what's required for better thermals...Haha. Looking at the cost of my PC/cooling setup, it'd be hard to argue that I'm not stupid. Not including blocks or any PC components, so basically only case/rads/reservoirs/pumps/fans/controllers/fittings/quickconnects...I'm sitting at around $9800 CAD. That includes 2x mo-ra3 of course. So stupidity is definitely part of my repertoir. Haha.


Welcome to the club. Most people in this forum has spent an ton on the chase. Even Forestwhitakersgoodeye rig probably approaches your 9800cad tbh.


----------



## CluckyTaco

Finally got my replacement mid-plate from Optimus yesterday. Like other folks who suggested I also got extra thermal pads along with the philips type screws for my cold plate. Honestly you can get better torque with the philips type not sure why they chose the lame tiny allen version. FWIW Optimus did come through but at the expense of my GPU out of commission for about 3 weeks now. Patience is virtue as they say.


----------



## chibi

CluckyTaco said:


> Finally got my replacement mid-plate from Optimus yesterday. Like other folks who suggested I also got extra thermal pads along with the philips type screws for my cold plate. Honestly you can get better torque with the philips type not sure why they chose the lame tiny allen version. FWIW Optimus did come through but at the expense of my GPU out of commission for about 3 weeks now. Patience is virtue as they say.


Why did you need a replacement mid plate? Did your screw threads also break? Or was it a coating issue on the cerakote?


----------



## CluckyTaco

chibi said:


> Why did you need a replacement mid plate? Did your screw threads also break? Or was it a coating issue on the cerakote?


During a loop tear down for a full flush I saw that the mid-plate had rust like stains near the rubber gaskets. There were verified to be the cerakote flaking. As for the screws, I stripped the hex hole for the teensy allen key screw. The ones used for the GPU cold plate. I think someone else in this thread had that same issue and based on their post I requested philips variant of said screws and it was night and day between the two.


----------



## GLuE

CluckyTaco said:


> During a loop tear down for a full flush I saw that the mid-plate had rust like stains near the rubber gaskets. There were verified to be the cerakote flaking. As for the screws, I stripped the hex hole for the teensy allen key screw. The ones used for the GPU cold plate. I think someone else in this thread had that same issue and based on their post I requested philips variant of said screws and it was night and day between the two.
> 
> View attachment 2555228
> View attachment 2555229
> View attachment 2555230


Cerakote didn’t flake. It’s just poor coating from the beginning.


----------



## criskoe

I agree that looks like missed coverage due to the crevice. Looks like the bare copper. My guess is they prolly coat them hanging in a paint booth and Optimus most likely didnt hit the block at all angles with the spray gun. With that being said. Getting good coverage in small crevices can be hard with out getting runs unless you are doing many very light coats and are proficient with a spay gun. This looks like a RUSH job to me....

With the gasket in, it will make zero difference tho.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Did you have any of the cerakote material on the o-ring or screws when you took them out?

If not, then agreed, probably bad coverage from the start which you would not have seen until tearing down, and really won't make a difference in use.

Either way, not a great showing for Optimus.


----------



## acoustic

I'm thinking about swapping over to their fittings. I like the Pro-XE Nickel fittings, I think they'd contrast really well with my black EPDM tubing and the Nickel Heatkiller IV Pro.

I'm also looking at dumping this 011 XL and moving to a Phanteks Pro2. I would like to get my WaterT delta to ambient down further as I'm a little unhappy with how much heat-soak I'm seeing in my loop with a 12700K and 3080TI STRIX. It's been exacerbated by moving to 4K vs 3840x1600. Under full load I'm hitting 35-37c WaterT at a ~23c ambient. 

Currently I have 2x Heatkiller 360-L rads as intake with Noctua A12x25 (pulling air thru the rad into the case; rads mounted top and bottom), 3x A12x25 on the side as intake running a lower RPM as to not overpower the rad fans, and a single exhaust fan at the rear that goes up to 1100rpm under load. I'm looking to go to either add a 480, or swap both 360 for 420 or 480s, depending on which case I go to.

The restrictive grilles on the 011D XL are also annoying. When I initially bought the case, I was running air-cooling with a 360mm AIO, so it wasn't much of a concern, but now with a custom loop it's a bit different.

Not sure which direction to go! I thought about external rad, but that's honestly too much work/investment (especially having to buy QDs, which means a second D5 to alleviate flow restriction).

I'm also going to need to grab a fan-hub if I add another rad or move to 480mm rads. I'm already out of fan connectors and I'm using 3-to-1 cable adapters plugged into the mobo. This Z690 TUF is a garbage board, but I'll fix that when Raptor Lake is here..


----------



## CluckyTaco

Sir Beregond said:


> Did you have any of the cerakote material on the o-ring or screws when you took them out?
> 
> If not, then agreed, probably bad coverage from the start which you would not have seen until tearing down, and really won't make a difference in use.
> 
> Either way, not a great showing for Optimus.


Nope the o-ring was clean as a whistle. I checked by rinsing it in warm distilled water and wiping it down with a white cloth. I mean these are cosmetic issues but for top dollar we'd expect zero compromises. At least they're willing to replace it free of charge so take it what you will.


----------



## bearsdidit

CluckyTaco said:


> During a loop tear down for a full flush I saw that the mid-plate had rust like stains near the rubber gaskets. There were verified to be the cerakote flaking. As for the screws, I stripped the hex hole for the teensy allen key screw. The ones used for the GPU cold plate. I think someone else in this thread had that same issue and based on their post I requested philips variant of said screws and it was night and day between the two.
> 
> View attachment 2555228
> View attachment 2555229
> View attachment 2555230


Was it pretty easy to swap out the oring? I’ll need to re do mine eventually due to discoloration.


----------



## CluckyTaco

bearsdidit said:


> Was it pretty easy to swap out the oring? I’ll need to re do mine eventually due to discoloration.


Yeah they weren't that difficult. The real pita was the thermal pads and re-applying LM on the die. I hate tearing down my loop but it was unavoidable this time around. Like others have said always buy extra o-rings, gaskets and thermal pads from Optimus. They are not that expensive and would help in a pinch.


----------



## chibi

For reference, my cold plate screw thread broke and they sent me a new mid plate. Both mid plates, never before used, also showed areas of poor coverage. It was mostly in the o-ring channels so I don't care too much about that. Having only two threads to hold the cold plate is a weak design imo. Wil have to limit tear downs on the GPU to avoid wear and tear.


----------



## GLuE

A friend of mine received this from optimus. Lol


----------



## bearsdidit

CluckyTaco said:


> Yeah they weren't that difficult. The real pita was the thermal pads and re-applying LM on the die. I hate tearing down my loop but it was unavoidable this time around. Like others have said always buy extra o-rings, gaskets and thermal pads from Optimus. They are not that expensive and would help in a pinch.



If I’m just replacing the gasket, I shouldn’t need to repad the card, correct?


----------



## CluckyTaco

bearsdidit said:


> If I’m just replacing the gasket, I shouldn’t need to repad the card, correct?


Yeah that's the one good thing in your case, if you're only changing the gasket.


----------



## Biggu

GLuE said:


> A friend of mine received this from optimus. Lol


Uhhhhhhhh That's going to be a no from me dog. what the hell is going on over at the Optimus camp.


----------



## acoustic

Has anyone seen any public communications from them since 2021? Really strange they've gone completely dark for so long, even on their more regular platforms like Twitter.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

When I was loud about OPTIMUS everyone was “chill out” and pretending how it’s not that bad

Honestly for the amount of money they want the CS is horrendous (we all know that) but lately what I’m seeing regarding quality is pretty much at the same level now.

I could be wrong but I think OPTIMUS themselves know they’re done and just kinda going with ”lets see when the idiots will stop buying so we can close this chapter and move on” kinda thing. 
I haven’t seen a peep from them since end of last year,the quality and now what the guy received is just embarrassing honestly (*** is that). I don’t care if you’re fan girling for them but you have to be ******ed to still pretend how everything is A - OK…
They can’t even ****ing get their **** together to get the 16mm hard tube fittings in stock not to mention anything else. Come on it isn’t end of the world,you can milk supply issues only for so long!


Side note @acoustic the Enthoo Pro 2 is a great case,I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it for one sec.


----------



## dwolvin

I'm also curious what's up with the gasket. The others looked to have been cut on a waterjet, that one looks like a crackhead cut it with a rusty x-acto.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

dwolvin said:


> I'm also curious what's up with the gasket. The others looked to have been cut on a waterjet, that one looks like a crackhead cut it with a rusty x-acto.


Wouldn’t surprise me if that’s the reason why so many have leakages on the block. Normally you’d never think you’d have to open up the block to inspect the gasket,but apparently you have to seeing the crap they send out.


----------



## dwolvin

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Wouldn’t surprise me if that’s the reason why so many have leakages on the block. Normally you’d never think you’d have to open up the block to inspect the gasket,but apparently you have to seeing the crap they send out.


No, that would be plenty visible from outside. None of the pics anyone posted here or anywhere else I have see had a nasty chewed up gasket... Either the company is down spiraling and is in freefall, or that's a fake gasket.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Wouldn’t surprise me if that’s the reason why so many have leakages on the block. Normally you’d never think you’d have to open up the block to inspect the gasket,but apparently you have to seeing the crap they send out.


Its time to follow your lead and sell off my system too.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> No, that would be plenty visible from outside. None of the pics anyone posted here or anywhere else I have see had a nasty chewed up gasket... Either the company is down spiraling and is in freefall, or that's a fake gasket.


Lol. Forest just wants someone to buy his system so he can get out of watercooling pc hobby.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Section31 said:


> Lol. Forest just wants someone to buy his system so he can get out of watercooling pc hobby.


I doubt I’ll sell it haven’t had anyone message me anything serious as a offer. Everyone trying to bs how they can build the exact same system for $5000-5500 but realize really fast that only the watercooling stuff is close to $3000 and then where’s the x570 xtreme,strix 3090 oc,5900x,the $680 ram etc etc…

”Ohhh I can buy all this much cheaper from other places,can buy the x570 xtreme for $600 etc…“
Told a guy “WtheF did you come to me then? If you can go ahead and build this pc for $4000 if you say you can!”
People think because I’m selling I’m desperate so if I can get $3000 I’ll be happy,**** off.
If I had the money to build this while covid was killing literally everyone (sarcastic) that kinda hints that I’m pretty good regarding money and don’t really care to much about it.

If nothing serious comes up in the next couple weeks I’ll throw it away, I’m leaving and have no space nor can I take it with me. If one day I feel I’m in the mood building again I’ll buy everything new and play with that. Highly doubt it but you never know


----------



## acoustic

I'm hoping "throw it away" means give it to someone or donate it. Pretty massive waste if you put it in the dumpster 

Would you be willing to part it out, or are you selling it as a whole only?


----------



## dwolvin

Good luck, sorry I can't even spend that kind of scratch. Hell, I just eyeballed my system and think it's about 20% that (won the 1080ti back in the day).


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

acoustic said:


> I'm hoping "throw it away" means give it to someone or donate it. Pretty massive waste if you put it in the dumpster
> 
> Would you be willing to part it out, or are you selling it as a whole only?


Not in the mood taking everything apart and then hustling around with morons…Been there done that and not doing it again. When people sell their stuff it’s 150-200% over msrp when used but when it’s time to buy someone‘s stuff then it’s suddenly 70% less then msrp.

Waste or not waste I’m leaving and as far as it stands now I won’t be coming back to Canada it’s a **** show here. I’m not vaccinated so that alone is a huuuuge hurdle to come back as a canadian citizen. This country is on the verge od collapsing,I’m not sticking around to look and listen to peoples negative bs how it’s hard etc etc..but somehow bought a $1.5-2.5mil house in Toronto and is working as a warehouse receiver and Uber driver. Yea,it’s nobody’s fault except your greed,wanting to fit a certain narrative/lifestyle you can’t even closely afford! You make barely $3000-3500 per month with 2 jobs and mortage is $6000-8000…yea good luck with that,no wonder you’re miserable and negative I’d be,too!

I’ll still be around just not with a pc anymore 🤣😂


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Not in the mood taking everything apart and then hustling around with morons…Been there done that and not doing it again. When people sell their stuff it’s 150-200% over msrp when used but when it’s time to buy someone‘s stuff then it’s suddenly 70% less then msrp.
> 
> Waste or not waste I’m leaving and as far as it stands now I won’t be coming back to Canada it’s a **** show here. I’m not vaccinated so that alone is a huuuuge hurdle to come back as a canadian citizen. This country is on the verge od collapsing,I’m not sticking around to look and listen to peoples negative bs how it’s hard etc etc..but somehow bought a $1.5-2.5mil house in Toronto and is working as a warehouse receiver and Uber driver. Yea,it’s nobody’s fault except your greed,wanting to fit a certain narrative/lifestyle you can’t even closely afford! You make barely $3000-3500 per month with 2 jobs and mortage is $6000-8000…yea good luck with that,no wonder you’re miserable and negative I’d be,too!
> 
> I’ll still be around just not with a pc anymore 🤣😂


Your not the only one. I’m also considering leaving this country too in the future.


----------



## GLuE

dwolvin said:


> No, that would be plenty visible from outside. None of the pics anyone posted here or anywhere else I have see had a nasty chewed up gasket... Either the company is down spiraling and is in freefall, or that's a fake gasket.


It’s not fake. He really received it like that. It’s a gasket for his strix.


----------



## iamjanco

Thread is somehow starting to look like _the grass is greener on the other side club_ thread.

Maybe it needs to be moved to _Off-Topic?_


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

iamjanco said:


> Thread is somehow starting to look like _the grass is greener on the other side club_ thread.
> 
> Maybe it needs to be moved to _Off-Topic?_


Name me one single thread with this many replies that isn’t going back and forth (off-topic)???
People talk about various things it’s the nature and we have a group here of 15ish guys that regularly post so after some time when you get to know each other a bit better (not just seeing someone post once in 5 years) it’s kinda normal that other off-topic stuff comes up from time to time.

I don’t get that every couple of days somebody pops up “we should close this thread or move it off-topic”? Do it! 
You see OPTIMUS doesn’t give a single F…anymore so either let this run and people go a bit off-topic or close it down and finish with it.
What do you expect from 13334 posts it’s strictly going to be OPTIMUS related and how they’re the best and shiniest?


----------



## iamjanco

Dude, jeez, chill out. Don't make me break out the cross.









It works on rabid dogs as well


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> Thread is somehow starting to look like _the grass is greener on the other side club_ thread.
> 
> Maybe it needs to be moved to _Off-Topic?_


Just needs optimus to release new products and improve its existing issues and everything will be fine.


----------



## iamjanco

Look, I've got a Strix 3090 block on order with them. If they send me a block in good shape that's fully functional, they'll get a good and fair *published review* out of me for the product that objectively points out their potential pros and known weak areas. OTOH, if they send me a product that doesn't meet what they promise on their website, they'll get well crafted BBB and FTC complaints geared toward shutting them down permanently.

I'm frankly tired of all the bs and am willing to spend/risk $400 to prove some points.


----------



## acoustic

Good luck with the block. I hope it's up to standard


----------



## tcclaviger

I'll add this to the company health discussion: My recently purchased block arrived quickly and it was correct. Machining quality slightly reduced on the acrylic but otherwise all good. Will say I agree it seems like a change in company has occured, like someone important left or something.

Added a Derbauer block adjustment kit today, moving the whole block "down" towards the top PCIE slot about 1cm, which locates the jet slot area directly over the CCDs. It certainly changed the cooling profile of the Optimus block.

IOD temps are +2-4c, CCD gap narrowed by 1c from CCD1 to CCD2, and Tctl/Tdie is down 4c! I honestly was very doubtful of any help in cooling and was looking for more repeatable mount quality, but I'm not complaining.

Just my initial look, now to see if the reported temp difference manifests as score differences...the real measure,as shifting the temperatures around means nothing if SMU isn't using for more effective clock speed.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> Its time to follow your lead and sell off my system too.


You've been talking this way on this thread a while now.



ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I doubt I’ll sell it haven’t had anyone message me anything serious as a offer. Everyone trying to bs how they can build the exact same system for $5000-5500 but realize really fast that only the watercooling stuff is close to $3000 and then where’s the x570 xtreme,strix 3090 oc,5900x,the $680 ram etc etc…
> 
> ”Ohhh I can buy all this much cheaper from other places,can buy the x570 xtreme for $600 etc…“
> Told a guy “WtheF did you come to me then? If you can go ahead and build this pc for $4000 if you say you can!”
> People think because I’m selling I’m desperate so if I can get $3000 I’ll be happy,**** off.
> If I had the money to build this while covid was killing literally everyone (sarcastic) that kinda hints that I’m pretty good regarding money and don’t really care to much about it.
> 
> If nothing serious comes up in the next couple weeks I’ll throw it away, I’m leaving and have no space nor can I take it with me. If one day I feel I’m in the mood building again I’ll buy everything new and play with that. Highly doubt it but you never know


Yeah, watercooling is expensive.

So look, I had fun making fun of the "yo bruv" crowd, but the other crowd is the one that keeps censoring swears on here. I miss when this place had the decorum of professionalism and wasn't just reddit speak.


----------



## Paramedic10

Figured I'd add something positive (for now) for Optimus. I'm also waiting for a KP block; have been for 6 months. I've been monitoring things closely since release of this block on various forums, seen the growing pains, and everything else. It's made me question my purchase but also I'm holding out because there's really no other solution for this card except the HC kit.

When I ordered my block, I also ordered a complete res combo and a sig v2 CPU block. I waited a while for them to get back to me multiple times on several emails about updates on if I could get my order partially fulfilled, and I reminded them in an email that their estimate had come and gone, and like magic, it was on the way to me the next day.

The reservoir tube was damaged in shipping (not Optimus' fault, apparently UPS used the box as football). I had my system all pulled apart and was awaiting the delivery so I could get my PC back up and running. When it arrived and I noticed I needed a replacement, I sent a panicked email to Optimus on a Friday afternoon (thinking my weekend was shot and I was screwed for a while) but to my surprise I got a response from Matt right away. I asked if he could overnight the replacement parts on my dime, and he indeed did and only charged me a small difference from what I initially paid for (2nd day air).

Parts came in right on time, 16 hours after my email for help, and my weekend was saved. Got the system build and running.

So yes, some of my experiences waiting for return emails and the delivery of my block have been frustrating, but they came through when I needed them the most.

By their estimate, I've got a little more than a month more to wait, which will make 7ish months from order date. I'll be posting updates here and my stats/comparison of performance once installed.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> You've been talking this way on this thread a while now.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, watercooling is expensive.
> 
> So look, I had fun making fun of the "yo bruv" crowd, but the other crowd is the one that keeps censoring swears on here. I miss when this place had the decorum of professionalism and wasn't just reddit speak.


Actually you missed the sacrasm part. That and canadian political correctness factor. Sometimes you need to follow when in Rome, follow what the romans say (without the actions).

I will still be around and will do redo another rig down the road but not for another 2-3years. 

Generally from what i notice among caselabs owners, the true indication your quitting for real is when your willing to let go of that caselabs case.


----------



## nawk

Section31 said:


> Actually you missed the sacrasm part. That and canadian political correctness factor. Sometimes you need to follow when in Rome, follow what the romans say (without the actions).
> 
> I will still be around and will do redo another rig down the road but not for another 2-3years.
> 
> Generally from what i notice among caselabs owners, the true indication your quitting for real is when your willing to let go of that caselabs case.


it has come to my attention that sc spectre sales are finally picking up momentum. Personally, I'd _never_ use them.


----------



## dwolvin

Jay2Cents loves it, but it's not my bag, baby.


----------



## Section31

nawk said:


> it has come to my attention that sc spectre sales are finally picking up momentum. Personally, I'd _never_ use them.


Contact shawnb99 on distro front, he has an update and hows working on super extended top.


----------



## Section31

Though the stuff popping up on reddit resale market is really nice stuff. Not many interested parties either.


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/CanadianHardwareSwap/comments/u09ogs


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/CanadianHardwareSwap/comments/tzdsjx

Im sure us resale market is similar. It always was tough reselling water cooling parts but its going to get much worse.


----------



## Sir Beregond

I've never actually tried to resale watercooling parts to be honest.


----------



## D-EJ915

I sold a few unused rads and gpu blocks a few years ago but never anything that was used.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> I've never actually tried to resale watercooling parts to be honest.


Basically as of right now it’s probably better to get used than new waterparts if available. What’s available is high end. There an 3090 ftw3 plus optimus block going for 1900cad.


----------



## ciarlatano

Sir Beregond said:


> I've never actually tried to resale watercooling parts to be honest.


I've sold blocks, cards with blocks and rads here on OCN. And sold a ton of CLCs on eBay after I benched and reviewed them.


----------



## Section31

ciarlatano said:


> I've sold blocks, cards with blocks and rads here on OCN. And sold a ton of CLCs on eBay after I benched and reviewed them.


I hate selling waterparts online unless its friends and trusted contacts (only know till you have one deal). Absolute pain to deal with and lot of price haggling.

Even for free stuff im throwing out, only asking order party handle shipping. They either want me to pay for shipping or they want to paypal me back shipping. I luckily found couple who did the shipping part themselves.


----------



## bearsdidit

Section31 said:


> Basically as of right now it’s probably better to get used than new waterparts if available. What’s available is high end. There an 3090 ftw3 plus optimus block going for 1900cad.


Man, that is a steal!


----------



## bearsdidit

Section31 said:


> I hate selling waterparts online unless its friends and trusted contacts (only know till you have one deal). Absolute pain to deal with and lot of price haggling.
> 
> Even for free stuff im throwing out, only asking order party handle shipping. They either want me to pay for shipping or they want to paypal me back shipping. I luckily found couple who did the shipping part themselves.


I didn’t want to bother selling my 011 and EK distro block so I gave it to a friend for his first set up. I’d rather bring joy/external grief to a friend than pocket a few hundred bucks and deal with people on Reddit.


----------



## KedarWolf

Section31 said:


> Basically as of right now it’s probably better to get used than new waterparts if available. What’s available is high end. There an 3090 ftw3 plus optimus block going for 1900cad.


$1900 CAD? Are you sure that's right? My Optimus Strix block new cost $550.38 CAD shipping included, taxes and everything.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, I was thinking of picking up something used when the 4xxx series comes out and the people need to get on the bleeding edge...


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> $1900 CAD? Are you sure that's right? My Optimus Strix block new cost $550.38 CAD shipping included, taxes and everything.


Thats what my contact out east managed to find. Super lucky but also sign of the coming market. Guy must have been desperate for cash. I do notice an growing number of posts with people looking for cash/cashflow issues.

I think the resale value for optimus blocks are 300-350cad and thats if someone is specifically looking for them. Others are in the 100-250cad (ekwb) category.

I suspect different for big cities vs smaller ones. So the major cities (gta) likely are more likely to see oversupply.


----------



## acoustic

After reading all the people having issues with CableMod cables .. who has good custom cables?


----------



## KedarWolf

acoustic said:


> After reading all the people having issues with CableMod cables .. who has good custom cables?


The best custom cables are Mainframe Customs but they are quite expensive.


----------



## nawk

Section31 said:


> Thats what my contact out east managed to find.


You got a reddit link?


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> After reading all the people having issues with CableMod cables .. who has good custom cables?


Titanrigs mod-one. Mdpc-x option. Get them when they run 10-20% sales. 






Best Custom Sleeved PC Cables by MOD-ONE | Made in the USA!


MOD-ONE is proud to craft the World's Best Custom PC Cables featuring MDPC-X Cable Sleeving and Molex terminals. MOD-ONE Custom Sleeved PC Cables are made to your exact specifications right here in the USA!




www.titanrig.com


----------



## Section31

nawk said:


> You got a reddit link?


Nope. Individual just told me (he looks out for good deals). They asked if i was selling mine. Lot of my contacts do since they know i basically don’t turn on the computer much and everything is generally like new.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

Section31 said:


> Nope. Individual just told me (he looks out for good deals). They asked if i was selling mine. Lot of my contacts do since they know i basically don’t turn on the computer much and everything is generally like new.


Must’ve found someone extremely desperate or something isn’t right with the card! 
Just now I looked a bit around and 3090’s are all $2550-3400 hell even the 3080’s are around $2200-2500ish…either he’s lying how he found this super great deal or something else which he isn’t telling. I know that nobody is selling a new/proper 3090 for $1900.
Except if he bought a card that was used for mining but left that out


----------



## ArchStanton

Section31 said:


> Titanrigs mod-one. Mdpc-x option. Get them when they run 10-20% sales.


+1 for Titan Rig, though I bought their sleeving in a big roll and did some of my own. I found it reasonably easy to work with.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Must’ve found someone extremely desperate or something isn’t right with the card!
> Just now I looked a bit around and 3090’s are all $2550-3400 hell even the 3080’s are around $2200-2500ish…either he’s lying how he found this super great deal or something else which he isn’t telling. I know that nobody is selling a new/proper 3090 for $1900.
> Except if he bought a card that was used for mining but left that out


Yeah or someone like me. I value my 3080ti with optimus block at about 1500-1600Cad based on current markets (likely will drop to 1000-1200cad level by next gen). The Optimus block i expect zero recovery tbh. The watercooling market is just too small.

I kind of like going back to 3-4years for full upgrade. I can either just give away my hardware (keeping caselabs case) or just pass it along to my son usage down the road (they don’t need latest stuff thats just spoiling them)


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Titanrigs mod-one. Mdpc-x option. Get them when they run 10-20% sales.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best Custom Sleeved PC Cables by MOD-ONE | Made in the USA!
> 
> 
> MOD-ONE is proud to craft the World's Best Custom PC Cables featuring MDPC-X Cable Sleeving and Molex terminals. MOD-ONE Custom Sleeved PC Cables are made to your exact specifications right here in the USA!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.titanrig.com


Thanks! I'll check it out


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

acoustic said:


> Thanks! I'll check it out


I bought 2x cablemods for my PSU (Be Quiet Dark Pro 1500W) and never had a issue with them. The pro and the other ones the thicker looking cables but I would go with mdpc-x…they just feel better and I kinda prefer them more.

What issues were people having with cablemods?


----------



## ArchStanton

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> What issues were people having with cablemods?


I am also using some CableMod products (full cables, no extensions), and thankfully I am unaware of any issues. I too would be curious to know if I just got lucky? @acoustic


----------



## KedarWolf

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> I bought 2x cablemods for my PSU (Be Quiet Dark Pro 1500W) and never had a issue with them. The pro and the other ones the thicker looking cables but I would go with mdpc-x…they just feel better and I kinda prefer them more.
> 
> What issues were people having with cablemods?


With my CableMod Pros my 12v rails with like 11.5v across the board. Back 12v+ went I went back to my stock AX1600i cables and with my MainFrame Customs cables.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

KedarWolf said:


> With my CableMod Pros my 12v rails with like 11.5v across the board. Back 12v+ went I went back to my stock AX1600i cables and with my MainFrame Customs cables.


Did you buy the extensions or the full cables?
I bought both times the full cables and I haven’t had any issues at all.

The only issue well nothing really big is the pcie-4 cable…I don’t have any issue with it but I do get like 100’s of WHEA errors. I was told it’s because of the pcie-4 cable not being stock,you can buy a expensive one from Lian-Li I think the guy said and the WHEA errors completely disappear?!


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> With my CableMod Pros my 12v rails with like 11.5v across the board. Back 12v+ went I went back to my stock AX1600i cables and with my MainFrame Customs cables.


Mainframe cables are nice also. I think it depends on budget and color option you want for your build. I like mdpc-x colors myself.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Did you buy the extensions or the full cables?
> I bought both times the full cables and I haven’t had any issues at all.
> 
> The only issue well nothing really big is the pcie-4 cable…I don’t have any issue with it but I do get like 100’s of WHEA errors. I was told it’s because of the pcie-4 cable not being stock,you can buy a expensive one from Lian-Li I think the guy said and the WHEA errors completely disappear?!


You see r2 of Qk65. Damn some nice options. Mix and match. Any color top with bottom. I like Pastel Green with Mirror Polish PVD bottom. Owlabs really got the colors down. Wish this existed for Mr.Suit.









QK65 Restock - Sale Info


This document is only referring to the QK 65 sale on qwertykeys.com. All details are subject to change before the sale. Check Regional Vendors section for your local vendor.




alkaline-sting-1d3.notion.site


----------



## KedarWolf

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Did you buy the extensions or the full cables?
> I bought both times the full cables and I haven’t had any issues at all.
> 
> The only issue well nothing really big is the pcie-4 cable…I don’t have any issue with it but I do get like 100’s of WHEA errors. I was told it’s because of the pcie-4 cable not being stock,you can buy a expensive one from Lian-Li I think the guy said and the WHEA errors completely disappear?!


Full cable kit.


----------



## acoustic

ArchStanton said:


> I am also using some CableMod products (full cables, no extensions), and thankfully I am unaware of any issues. I too would be curious to know if I just got lucky? @acoustic





ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> Did you buy the extensions or the full cables?
> I bought both times the full cables and I haven’t had any issues at all.
> 
> The only issue well nothing really big is the pcie-4 cable…I don’t have any issue with it but I do get like 100’s of WHEA errors. I was told it’s because of the pcie-4 cable not being stock,you can buy a expensive one from Lian-Li I think the guy said and the WHEA errors completely disappear?!


Don't mean to alarm you guys or anything - you're probably fine! As KedarWolf said, there's been reports of low voltage on the 12v line, as well as some issues with the PCIE 8pin cables not handling the full 150watt correctly. Could be nothing, but I'd rather go with a different brand (like the TitanRig, which I have heard nothing but great things about thus far) instead of take a chance.


----------



## Biggu

Honestly IMO the only way to do it is to make your own cables. Its honestly not hard just a but time consuming but its actually very fun and rewarding.


----------



## ArchStanton

Biggu said:


> Honestly IMO the only way to do it is to make your own cables.


Having "taken the plunge" I would concur. Put on your TechTuber of choice and catch up on all the "news" while you fabricate the perfectᵀᴹ length cables.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

I made some cables myself,it’s as you said time consuming but you can do whatever you like. 
Depends on how far you want to go but you can sleeve over your existing cables (faster/cheaper/easier) or go full diy and make cables yourself. 
The only thing that’s really important for me is that the cables need to be thick and flexible. I don’t like the thinness (is this even correct in english?) of stock cables.

Just measure properly,buy all the tools and as @ArchStanton said watch a couple of YouTubers and it isn’t that hard just takes time and patience.


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

acoustic said:


> Don't mean to alarm you guys or anything - you're probably fine! As KedarWolf said, there's been reports of low voltage on the 12v line, as well as some issues with the PCIE 8pin cables not handling the full 150watt correctly. Could be nothing, but I'd rather go with a different brand (like the TitanRig, which I have heard nothing but great things about thus far) instead of take a chance.


My issue was that I ordered on the 27th December,but apparently they close everything down on the 28th December for 3-4 months to get everything in stock etc…?
But when I ordered them there was no notice of the closing,so when I biatched around (you know be by now) next thing you know 5min later they put on a notice and tried to convince me how I’m blind and didn’t see it. Yea def NO,before I buy anything I recheck everything 10 times to make sure I’m seeing everything. After that fiasco no bueno from me anymore,bought from mdpc-x afterwards what I needed and super happy…not saying cablemods are bad,no issues but I don’t like what happened.


----------



## Section31

ForestWhitakersGoodEye said:


> My issue was that I ordered on the 27th December,but apparently they close everything down on the 28th December for 3-4 months to get everything in stock etc…?
> But when I ordered them there was no notice of the closing,so when I biatched around (you know be by now) next thing you know 5min later they put on a notice and tried to convince me how I’m blind and didn’t see it. Yea def NO,before I buy anything I recheck everything 10 times to make sure I’m seeing everything. After that fiasco no bueno from me anymore,bought from mdpc-x afterwards what I needed and super happy…not saying cablemods are bad,no issues but I don’t like what happened.


@Acoustic also

The key is also colors lol. mdpc-x has some very unique colors. The downsides are as follows avoid 15awg cable and no metal combs are supported.

Mainframe/Techniflex looks good too just for certain colors mdpc-x rules imo. Grey, White, Liquid Colors, Red, Blue and Carbon mixed colors


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Honestly IMO the only way to do it is to make your own cables. Its honestly not hard just a but time consuming but its actually very fun and rewarding.


Me and shawnb99 were talking about it.Both of us investing into super nice keyboard cables. I am planning an super nice metal end lemo like set from rncables (no need for shipping since i can get friend/family to bring back).

All that watercooling funding went into maintenance, saving for future rigs and portion into keyboards


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Don't mean to alarm you guys or anything - you're probably fine! As KedarWolf said, there's been reports of low voltage on the 12v line, as well as some issues with the PCIE 8pin cables not handling the full 150watt correctly. Could be nothing, but I'd rather go with a different brand (like the TitanRig, which I have heard nothing but great things about thus far) instead of take a chance.


I got one more techniflex green set planned but these are some of the colors to give ideas

MDPC-X
Liquid Gold with inside liquid Diamond
Aluminum Grey with Grand Bleu
Grand Bleu with Liquid IR

Techniflex
Sky Blue with Purple inside


----------



## acoustic

Those look sweet


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> @Acoustic also
> 
> The key is also colors lol. mdpc-x has some very unique colors. The downsides are as follows avoid 15awg cable and no metal combs are supported.
> 
> Mainframe/Techniflex looks good too just for certain colors mdpc-x rules imo. Grey, White, Liquid Colors, Red, Blue and Carbon mixed colors


I bought some MDPC-X a long time ago...probably 2011 or 2012. Way too much of it too, in black and a really good red. Then I tried actually sleeving and figuring out it wasn't for me.

I still occasionally use the black to do a quick and dirty sleeve on the occasional unsleeved fan cable, or pump cable, but otherwise got way too much of that red sleeve that I'll never use again most likely sitting in a bin in my parts closet.

Don't know if other sleeving has caught up in quality or not, but this stuff was top notch 10 years ago.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> I bought some MDPC-X a long time ago...probably 2011 or 2012. Way too much of it too, in black and a really good red. Then I tried actually sleeving and figuring out it wasn't for me.
> 
> I still occasionally use the black to do a quick and dirty sleeve on the occasional unsleeved fan cable, or pump cable, but otherwise got way too much of that red sleeve that I'll never use again most likely sitting in a bin in my parts closet.
> 
> Don't know if other sleeving has caught up in quality or not, but this stuff was top notch 10 years ago.


Still is top notch. Its colors are what i like the most. They have nice new colors


----------



## acoustic

Looking at new PSU to replace my EVGA 1000w G2. She's not going to be enough for 4000 series, I don't think .. lol. I'm sure she sweats a bit just with the 3080TI + 12700K + the custom loop. Not sure which way to go. Anyone remember that website that did all the PSU reviews? They were super in-depth and really, really good. I can't remember the name nor find it through any searching on DuckDuckGo.. maybe I'm just an idiot, though.

Be Quiet! Dark Power 1500w for $449
Amazon.com: be quiet! Dark Power Pro 12 1500W, BN647, 80 Plus Titanium Efficiency, Power Supply, ATX, Fully Digital, Modular, virtually inaudible Silent Wings Fan : Everything Else

or

SuperFlower 1600w .. but it's $559








Super Flower Leadex Titanium 1600W 80+ Titanium, 10 Years Warranty, ECO Fanless & Silent Mode, Full Modular Power Supply, Dual Ball Bearing Fan, SF-1600F14HT - Newegg.com


Buy Super Flower Leadex Titanium 1600W 80+ Titanium, 10 Years Warranty, ECO Fanless & Silent Mode, Full Modular Power Supply, Dual Ball Bearing Fan, SF-1600F14HT with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you Newegg!




www.newegg.com





Seems like there's no custom cable support for either of them through TitanRig. I sent them an email asking if they have any cables that are compatible with either one, but waiting to hear back.


----------



## ArchStanton

@acoustic Aris Moitziopoulos (Articles by: Aris Mpitziopoulos) is my go to currently for PSU reviews. I was a faithful follower of Johnny Guru when he was himself...


----------



## acoustic

ArchStanton said:


> @acoustic Aris Moitziopoulos (Articles by: Aris Mpitziopoulos) is my go to currently for PSU reviews. I was a faithful follower of Johnny Guru when he was himself...


Man, I can't remember who the PSU reviewer was! It's killing me right now.

Looks like I'll be going with the Dark Power 1500w. For the pricing, it's unbeatable. The only real PSU that beats it is the 1600i, and that's $150+ more expensive for slightly better.

BTW, why avoid 15AWG cables, @Section31 ?

I think I'm going to end up making them custom. I'm not a noob when it comes to wiring (I work on airplanes).. sounds like it could be a fun little time-killer. The problem with going custom, though, is I'll need to wait until I replace this case. This 011D XL is getting replaced sooner rather than later, it's just a matter of with what. The Lian Li V3000+ has really disappointed me in all the changes, and it's *still* not available.. besides that, I'm not pumping out $500+ for an old CaseLabs that doesn't have modern connectivity on the front-IO panels. There's no damn options! I've thought about going ThermalFake .. but even then, not super happy with that choice.


----------



## Biggu

On the 15awg cables I beleive with cables + sleeving your going to have a hard time using cable combs and may be a bit large to fit into connectors.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Any one using signature v2 on 12900k? Any reviews?


----------



## acoustic

Biggu said:


> On the 15awg cables I beleive with cables + sleeving your going to have a hard time using cable combs and may be a bit large to fit into connectors.


Figures. I think 16awg will be just fine.


----------



## criskoe

Huseyinbaykal said:


> Any one using signature v2 on 12900k? Any reviews?


All the top blocks are with in 1C of each other... Just get what ever you think looks best.


----------



## Paramedic10

Huseyinbaykal said:


> Any one using signature v2 on 12900k? Any reviews?


Yes. Works fine, but I did a custom backplate and mounting solution to prevent board flex and to apply even pressure across the IHS. Running just shy of 30k on r23 at 5.2 all core with minimal effort. 13-15C improvement over my 280 AIO.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> On the 15awg cables I beleive with cables + sleeving your going to have a hard time using cable combs and may be a bit large to fit into connectors.


Yeah. Fittings cables into psu was tough


----------



## ForestWhitakersGoodEye

acoustic said:


> Man, I can't remember who the PSU reviewer was! It's killing me right now.
> 
> Looks like I'll be going with the Dark Power 1500w. For the pricing, it's unbeatable. The only real PSU that beats it is the 1600i, and that's $150+ more expensive for slightly better.
> 
> BTW, why avoid 15AWG cables, @Section31 ?
> 
> I think I'm going to end up making them custom. I'm not a noob when it comes to wiring (I work on airplanes).. sounds like it could be a fun little time-killer. The problem with going custom, though, is I'll need to wait until I replace this case. This 011D XL is getting replaced sooner rather than later, it's just a matter of with what. The Lian Li V3000+ has really disappointed me in all the changes, and it's *still* not available.. besides that, I'm not pumping out $500+ for an old CaseLabs that doesn't have modern connectivity on the front-IO panels. There's no damn options! I've thought about going ThermalFake .. but even then, not super happy with that choice.


I have the Dark Pro 12 1500W didn’t have a single issue since day one! A lot of cables included and although they are super thin they are great quality. Can’t go wrong with this one


----------



## D-EJ915

acoustic said:


> Looking at new PSU to replace my EVGA 1000w G2. She's not going to be enough for 4000 series, I don't think .. lol. I'm sure she sweats a bit just with the 3080TI + 12700K + the custom loop. Not sure which way to go. Anyone remember that website that did all the PSU reviews? They were super in-depth and really, really good. I can't remember the name nor find it through any searching on DuckDuckGo.. maybe I'm just an idiot, though.
> 
> Be Quiet! Dark Power 1500w for $449
> Amazon.com: be quiet! Dark Power Pro 12 1500W, BN647, 80 Plus Titanium Efficiency, Power Supply, ATX, Fully Digital, Modular, virtually inaudible Silent Wings Fan : Everything Else
> 
> or
> 
> SuperFlower 1600w .. but it's $559
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Super Flower Leadex Titanium 1600W 80+ Titanium, 10 Years Warranty, ECO Fanless & Silent Mode, Full Modular Power Supply, Dual Ball Bearing Fan, SF-1600F14HT - Newegg.com
> 
> 
> Buy Super Flower Leadex Titanium 1600W 80+ Titanium, 10 Years Warranty, ECO Fanless & Silent Mode, Full Modular Power Supply, Dual Ball Bearing Fan, SF-1600F14HT with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you Newegg!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.newegg.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like there's no custom cable support for either of them through TitanRig. I sent them an email asking if they have any cables that are compatible with either one, but waiting to hear back.


evga an superflower put their 1600s on sale pretty frequently for like $450 so I'd wait for that if you are wanting one of those.

I was looking at the be quiet too but found out the power switch does not cut off mains and still powers standby even when the switch is set to off which is absurd to me.


----------



## HyperMatrix

acoustic said:


> Looking at new PSU to replace my EVGA 1000w G2. She's not going to be enough for 4000 series, I don't think .. lol. I'm sure she sweats a bit just with the 3080TI + 12700K + the custom loop. Not sure which way to go. Anyone remember that website that did all the PSU reviews? They were super in-depth and really, really good. I can't remember the name nor find it through any searching on DuckDuckGo.. maybe I'm just an idiot, though.
> 
> Be Quiet! Dark Power 1500w for $449
> Amazon.com: be quiet! Dark Power Pro 12 1500W, BN647, 80 Plus Titanium Efficiency, Power Supply, ATX, Fully Digital, Modular, virtually inaudible Silent Wings Fan : Everything Else
> 
> or
> 
> SuperFlower 1600w .. but it's $559
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Super Flower Leadex Titanium 1600W 80+ Titanium, 10 Years Warranty, ECO Fanless & Silent Mode, Full Modular Power Supply, Dual Ball Bearing Fan, SF-1600F14HT - Newegg.com
> 
> 
> Buy Super Flower Leadex Titanium 1600W 80+ Titanium, 10 Years Warranty, ECO Fanless & Silent Mode, Full Modular Power Supply, Dual Ball Bearing Fan, SF-1600F14HT with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you Newegg!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.newegg.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like there's no custom cable support for either of them through TitanRig. I sent them an email asking if they have any cables that are compatible with either one, but waiting to hear back.


No PCIe 5.0 power connectors? You'll need 4x standard connectors into an adapter. For cards that require 2 PCIe 5.0 power connectors, that means 8x standard cables. That's not something I'd want to do, personally.


----------



## juliusskinner

Section31 said:


> I hope optimus restores usps shipping. Can’t use dhl anymore for Canadian, they upped their processing fees from 17.50 to 25cad.


But be careful with the USPS. You can't track your shipping most of the time. and their delivery will be slow as always. Also recently USPS has made changes to its policies. Don't forget to read them. They have mentioned that they will be charging more for slow delivery and more. hope you got it.


----------



## HyperMatrix

juliusskinner said:


> But be careful with the USPS. You can't track your shipping most of the time. and their delivery will be slow as always. Also recently USPS has made changes to its policies. Don't forget to read them. They have mentioned that they will be charging more for slow delivery and more. hope you got it.


USPS works with Canadapost so you can switch over to them to get more accurate tracking details once it’s been handed over. There’s also a roughly 80-90% chance that you won’t have to pay any duties or taxes on packages shipping with USPS. So for someone buying a $500 item in one of the poor provinces like Ontario or British Columbia where they have to pay 15% tax, that means there’s a possibility that you won’t have to pay the $17.50 DHL processing fee or the $75 tax on that package. So potential for $92.50 in savings.


----------



## Sir Beregond

HyperMatrix said:


> USPS works with Canadapost so you can switch over to them to get more accurate tracking details once it’s been handed over. There’s also a roughly 80-90% chance that you won’t have to pay any duties or taxes on packages shipping with USPS. So for someone buying a $500 item in one of the poor provinces like Ontario or British Columbia where they have to pay 15% tax, that means there’s a possibility that you won’t have to pay the $17.50 DHL processing fee or the $75 tax on that package. So potential for $92.50 in savings.


This is just commentary on what you posted about fees/taxes just to receive a package....yikes!


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> USPS works with Canadapost so you can switch over to them to get more accurate tracking details once it’s been handed over. There’s also a roughly 80-90% chance that you won’t have to pay any duties or taxes on packages shipping with USPS. So for someone buying a $500 item in one of the poor provinces like Ontario or British Columbia where they have to pay 15% tax, that means there’s a possibility that you won’t have to pay the $17.50 DHL processing fee or the $75 tax on that package. So potential for $92.50 in savings.


Actually i just paid 17.50cad dhl fee again just for 2.50cad in taxes lmao. Ordered in spare owlabs boards parts and they declared it at 50usd (for spare parts no matter the value) or 100usd for keyboard no matter the value.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Actually i just paid 17.50cad dhl fee again just for 2.50cad in taxes lmao. Ordered in spare owlabs boards parts and they declared it at 50usd (for spare parts no matter the value) or 100usd for keyboard no matter the value.


that's ****ing wild


----------



## GraphicsWhore

My FTW3 block has recently begun excreting some kind of oily residue from the area around the backplate screws. I've wiped it off and after some time it returns. Distilled water loop and been about 8 months of use. Any ideas?


----------



## KedarWolf

GraphicsWhore said:


> My FTW3 block has recently begun excreting some kind of oily residue from the area around the backplate screws. I've wiped it off and after some time it returns. Distilled water loop and been about 8 months of use. Any ideas?


It's oil from the backplate thermal pad. It's worse on vertical mounts. It's harmless other than looks crappy though.


----------



## dwolvin

you can get a little silicone oil and wipe down the rest of the card to get the finish even...


----------



## Kommando Kodiak

Paramedic10 said:


> Yes. Works fine, but I did a custom backplate and mounting solution to prevent board flex and to apply even pressure across the IHS. Running just shy of 30k on r23 at 5.2 all core with minimal effort. 13-15C improvement over my 280 AIO.


can you show more of the backplate and mounting solution?


----------



## Paramedic10

Kommando Kodiak said:


> can you show more of the backplate and mounting solution?


Another user on here helped me. I used the EK 1700 backplate and some m4 30mm machine head screws which come in from the back and act like studs that the cpu block slides down onto. Then fasted onto that with supplied thumbscrews. Working fine for me. I can try to take pics when I'm back home.


----------



## Kommando Kodiak

Paramedic10 said:


> Another user on here helped me. I used the EK 1700 backplate and some m4 30mm machine head screws which come in from the back and act like studs that the cpu block slides down onto. Then fasted onto that with supplied thumbscrews. Working fine for me. I can try to take pics when I'm back home.


yes please!


----------



## iamjanco

Fyi/fwiw, got a notice from Optimus yesterday that the Strix 3090 block I ordered March 11 shipped.

I'll likely be doing a full copper backplate for it as well; similar to the one I did for the KPE: 



iamjanco said:


> View attachment 2520712


----------



## bearsdidit

iamjanco said:


> Fyi/fwiw, got a notice from Optimus yesterday that the Strix 3090 block I ordered March 11 shipped.
> 
> I'll likely be doing a full copper backplate for it as well; similar to the one I did for the KPE:


My strix block is a beast. With a moderate OC, I’ve never seen higher temps than 38c core and 56c memory. If fact, when I was running the mp5 cooler on the backplate, memory temps maxed at 48/50c.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

“Problem Solved. They see that code is unused. “

Wanna share something with you all.
When we first ordered ftw3 blocks. They promised us %15 discount on our next order. I have asked them 5 times about my code is not working. They said order and we will apply the discount. I asked them to give me a working code so I can order with discount and now they say that my code is used before 😂😂😂


----------



## Shawnb99




----------



## Section31

Huseyinbaykal said:


> Wanna share something with you all.
> When we first ordered ftw3 blocks. They promised us %15 discount on our next order. I have asked them 5 times about my code is not working. They said order and we will apply the discount. I asked them to give me a working code so I can order with discount and now they say that my code is used before 😂😂😂
> 
> they are so funny. Never trust Optimus. They never fullfill their promises about anything. Just fyi.
> 
> View attachment 2558240
> 
> View attachment 2558239


That code long expired. You also needed to contact them to either give you new one or directly reimburse 15% of order to you. That how it worked out for me.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


>


welcome back. You were missed here.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Section31 said:


> That code long expired. You also needed to contact them to either give you new one or directly reimburse 15% of order to you. That how it worked out for me.


I asked for a code for 6 months. Than cant use on kp block. Asked whatshappening and heard like buy and tell us. Asked about a working one and got nothing. Just wanted to share. Code was not working for me from day one. And I dont expect anything from them anymore. Tryed multiple times.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Shawnb99 said:


>


Wow, welcome back.


----------



## Shawnb99

Huseyinbaykal said:


> I asked for a code for 6 months. Than cant use on kp block. Asked whatshappening and heard like buy and tell us. Asked about a working one and got nothing. Just wanted to share. Code was not working for me from day one. I dont like optimus anymore. And I dont expect anything from them anymore. Just they promised and nothing happened. Tryed multiple times.


Keep trying. Their CS sucks total balls but with enough time you will get through to them. I just spent the last two months fighting over a shipment of fittings, between Optimus and UPS I don't know who's more incompetent. 



Sir Beregond said:


> Wow, welcome back.



Thanks! I know. I'm as shocked as you are.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Shawnb99 said:


> Keep trying. Their CS sucks total balls but with enough time you will get through to them. I just spent the last two months fighting over a shipment of fittings, between Optimus and UPS I don't know who's more incompetent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! I know. I'm as shocked as you are.


I sent them an email and when I got reply I forgot what I said.  they reply in 2 weeks if they do. Usually they dont reply at all. I dont want to get angry by trying to express myself to them. Just asked them who used the code and what bought with my code  I really wanna know what I bought that I dont know 😂😂😂
They are real joke. Worst cs ever of any kind.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Keep trying. Their CS sucks total balls but with enough time you will get through to them. I just spent the last two months fighting over a shipment of fittings, between Optimus and UPS I don't know who's more incompetent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! I know. I'm as shocked as you are.


Not many are patient as us. We appear as Optimus fans but really are just high end watercooling enuthiast. We go for the best when we do our rigs, whenever that is in future for both of us.


----------



## Section31

Huseyinbaykal said:


> I sent them an email and when I got reply I forgot what I said.  they reply in 2 weeks if they do. Usually they dont reply at all. I dont want to get angry by trying to express myself to them. Just asked them who used the code and what bought with my code  I really wanna know what I bought that I dont know 😂😂😂
> They are real joke. Worst cs ever of any kind.


There cs needs lot of improvements. However its your well earned money and you should spend it on places you are satisfied with. There lot of options outside of Optimus. Don’t think any of us here are Near ekwb fanboyism level on Optimus.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Yep. We are enthusiasts. Just wanted signature v2. Just bought directdie. Want to try them. Atleast I can call their cs and get help.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> There cs needs lot of improvements. However its your well earned money and you should spend it on places you are satisfied with. There lot of options outside of Optimus. Don’t think any of us here are Near ekwb fanboyism level on Optimus.


I think I'd try a TechN block next.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> I think I'd try a TechN block next.


Lot of stuff worth trying imo. Always new stuff. I am really interested in direct die solution after thailand guys did it. Whenever we upgrade our rigs cpu, gpus, etc.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Sir Beregond said:


> I think I'd try a TechN block next.


tryed that. Its better than anything I tryed on am4. Better temps compared to optimus on 5950.


----------



## Section31

Huseyinbaykal said:


> tryed that. Its better than anything I tryed on am4. Better temps compared to optimus on 5950.


For intel i think direct die is the future till they fix cpu cooling design. Amd we will see when they introduce next gen cpu chiplet design.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Just keeping techn incase switching back to amd. But that directdie thai guys worth trying. And they dont make you wait for ages as I heard.

Also problem solved with optimus. They will refund %15 of my next order as they said. Dunno if I will do that.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Question for the folks here. Should I be rotating my CPU block (within the bracket) so the inlet/outlet is side to side on my ASUS Dark Hero board? Or does it matter?


----------



## ciarlatano

Section31 said:


> Don’t think any of us here are Near ekwb fanboyism level on Optimus.


I don't believe there are any fanboys that come close to the EK crew. They have overtaken the Corsair boys for sheer blind loyalty.



Sir Beregond said:


> I think I'd try a TechN block next.


If I wind up going AMD, there is no doubt I am putting the TechN block on it.

@Shawnb99 - Welcome back. I hope you didn't pick up any bad habits in your exile to r/watercooling.


----------



## ciarlatano

Sir Beregond said:


> Question for the folks here. Should I be rotating my CPU block (within the bracket) so the inlet/outlet is side to side on my ASUS Dark Hero board? Or does it matter?


Doesn't matter.


----------



## D-EJ915

Yep only thing I'd advise is have the exit port on top but I think most people do that by default anyway.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Cool, that's exactly how it is. Just wanted to doublecheck. Thank you both, will leave it as is.


----------



## iamjanco

So the Optimus block for the Strix 3090 showed up today, well packed, and is pretty to look at. One question though: it seems there might be some sort of residue between the black gasket and the acrylic it mates with. Not sure if it's something to be concerned about and figured I'd better ask.

Note the red arrows pointing out some of this questionable stuff, which pretty much can be found throughout the black gasketed areas:








​I also feel the gasket doesn't fill the channel fully the way it should in various places. 

@Optimus WC ?

I'll also second that welcome back for @Shawnb99


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Question for the folks here. Should I be rotating my CPU block (within the bracket) so the inlet/outlet is side to side on my ASUS Dark Hero board? Or does it matter?
> 
> View attachment 2558305


nice rebuild your doing btw


----------



## ArchStanton

iamjanco said:


> it seems there might be some sort of residue between the black gasket and the acryli


This is a total stab in the dark, as I have no experience with Optimus products. I work with a lot of "nitrile" (AKA Buna N) o-rings/gaskets, and it is not unusual for them to come lubricated with silicone grease (keeps them from sticking to each other and cuts down on the chances of cutting/tearing if somebody installs them "dry"). I'm wondering if you are seeing a little silicone grease smearing on the acrylic.


----------



## iamjanco

ArchStanton said:


> I'm wondering if you are seeing a little silicone grease smearing on the acrylic.


Yeah, I had considered that possibility as well. Way back when we'd use 'clear' silicon grease to keep new seals in their channels when we replaced them in pressurized aircraft electrical equipment. 

Anyway, maybe Optimus will chime in; maybe they won't. If it were me and I was familiar with me, I'd certainly want to provide some useful input


----------



## Biggu

iamjanco said:


> Anyway, maybe Optimus will chime in; maybe they won't. If it were me and I was familiar with me, I'd certainly want to provide some useful input


I think I have a better chance of buying Twitter from Elon Musk than Optimus chiming in here again. People have been tagging them with questions for a while now and no response from them.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> nice rebuild your doing btw


Thanks!


----------



## iamjanco

Biggu said:


> I think I have a better chance of buying Twitter from Elon Musk than Optimus chiming in here again. People have been tagging them with questions for a while now and no response from them.


Yeah, figured I'd make the attempt, but also figured it might be in vain.


----------



## Sir Beregond

iamjanco said:


> Yeah, figured I'd make the attempt, but also figured it might be in vain.


From what I recall, you aren't the first to have noticed residues. But as to the answer, no idea.


----------



## chibi

janco, I also have those residue on the gasket and imprinted on the acrylic itself. I dunked everything in a tub of soapy distilled water and went at it with a tooth brush. Seemed to help get rid of most of it but still had small amounts on the acrylic. Next step would be to polish but I wasn't too bothered to go that far down the rabbit hole.


----------



## iamjanco

Sir Beregond said:


> From what I recall, you aren't the first to have noticed residues. But as to the answer, no idea.


Yeah, me as well, and that's why I asked. Their gasket fitting really looks wonky overall; and I can just picture their one gasket guy (who also probably handles their cs) getting frustrated as he attempts and fails to fit that awkward gasket neatly in its respective channels...











chibi said:


> janco, I also have those residue on the gasket and imprinted on the acrylic itself. I dunked everything in a tub of soapy distilled water and went at it with a tooth brush. Seemed to help get rid of most of it but still had small amounts on the acrylic. Next step would be to polish but I wasn't too bothered to go that far down the rabbit hole.


Thanks for chiming in. I knew there was mention of it at some time, but didn't recall by who. I'm more concerned about the areas in the channel where the gasket might be fitting a bit too loosely, as pictured in that image I shared earlier:









Anyway, if it does leak, I might give gasket cord a shot. In any event, I'm glad I grabbed all their staff info off of LinkedIn before they went all generic with that.


----------



## Avacado

iamjanco said:


> Yeah, me as well, and that's why I asked. Their gasket fitting really looks wonky overall; and I can just picture their one gasket guy (who also probably handles their cs) getting frustrated as he attempts and fails to fit that awkward gasket neatly in its respective channels...
> 
> View attachment 2558440


"You people" 

-Ban


----------



## iamjanco

It does look like that Matt fella...


----------



## chibi

My gaskets also sit loosely within the chambers. I assume everyone else is like that too due to the nature of the flat gasket build. My theory is that once clamped down, it will expand to fill the area for the most part. So far I'm leak free.

If you swap cold plates from nickel/copper, be careful when you tighten down the screws. There's only 2 or 3 threads holding the plate down and they're fairly brittle seeing as how they are machined right into the copper mid plate.


----------



## iamjanco

Thanks for the additional info! I do have to shake my head sometimes at stuff like



> If you swap cold plates from nickel/copper, be careful when you tighten down the screws. There's only 2 or 3 threads holding the plate down and they're fairly brittle seeing as how they are *machined right into the copper mid plate*.


and ask myself who engineers stuff like that?

_"Optimus brings over 50 years in aerospace and surgical device manufacturing to..." my foo bird._


----------



## GLuE

iamjanco said:


> Yeah, me as well, and that's why I asked. Their gasket fitting really looks wonky overall; and I can just picture their one gasket guy (who also probably handles their cs) getting frustrated as he attempts and fails to fit that awkward gasket neatly in its respective channels...
> View attachment 2558440
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for chiming in. I knew there was mention of it at some time, but didn't recall by who. I'm more concerned about the areas in the channel where the gasket might be fitting a bit too loosely, as pictured in that image I shared earlier:
> View attachment 2558442
> 
> 
> Anyway, if it does leak, I might give gasket cord a shot. In any event, I'm glad I grabbed all their staff info off of LinkedIn before they went all generic with that.





http://imgur.com/a/DEjG7x3


----------



## iamjanco

Cut by hand, eh.

Totally fubar.


----------



## bearsdidit

iamjanco said:


> Cut by hand, eh.
> 
> Totally fubar.


I think you mean, artisanal.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Since this is our unofficial enthusiast cooling thread...going to run this question by you guys. Starting to finalize my Mo-Ra3 setup. For the tubing, this is what I was planning. Let me know if you see any problems with it. 

Secondly question. I have whole house AC. But obviously with a full rig going full blast, and connected to an AVR with 1800W amplifier, temperatures do tend to go up. So I have a portable AC unit in my media room as well. Problem is that the AC unit has to be next to the window for exhaust, and my computer is on the wall opposite of where the windows are. I'd need to run probably 20-30 feet of tubing each way (going from PC to Mo-Ra3 and then returning) if I wanted to run it neatly by the wall so it's not in the way. So basically an extra 40-60 feet of tubing. Would that be a problem for flow when running 6-7 D5 pumps? I know it definitely sounds like more trouble than it's worth, especially when considering having to run the power and internal usb cables to it as well, which may actually not even operate over that kind of distance. But was curious just in terms of the problems with doing massive long tube runs like that. Especially since it could technically mean sub-ambient loop temperatures. 

I found out I can actually game 24/7 at 2205MHz on my 3090 as long as I can keep the card temperature at 35C and below. So with over 600W draw on the GPU, I'd need to keep loop water temperatures at 25C or less, which means even with 2x Mo-Ra3 and 4x HWL GTR rads, I'd need room ambient temperature to not go above 21C. And while I can do that comfortable near the AC, the area where the computer sits would obviously get a few degrees higher. So I'd need to crank the AC and get temps down even cooler than 21C in the coldest areas, to be able to maintain 21C near the computer. And that would mean rather uncomfortable temperatures. Hence why I was curious about how to get the Mo-Ra3 close to the window/AC unit.


----------



## bearsdidit

HyperMatrix said:


> Since this is our unofficial enthusiast cooling thread...going to run this question by you guys. Starting to finalize my Mo-Ra3 setup. For the tubing, this is what I was planning. Let me know if you see any problems with it.
> 
> Secondly question. I have whole house AC. But obviously with a full rig going full blast, and connected to an AVR with 1800W amplifier, temperatures do tend to go up. So I have a portable AC unit in my media room as well. Problem is that the AC unit has to be next to the window for exhaust, and my computer is on the wall opposite of where the windows are. I'd need to run probably 20-30 feet of tubing each way (going from PC to Mo-Ra3 and then returning) if I wanted to run it neatly by the wall so it's not in the way. So basically an extra 40-60 feet of tubing. Would that be a problem for flow when running 6-7 D5 pumps? I know it definitely sounds like more trouble than it's worth, especially when considering having to run the power and internal usb cables to it as well, which may actually not even operate over that kind of distance. But was curious just in terms of the problems with doing massive long tube runs like that.
> 
> View attachment 2558495


I ran into similar issues but not quite at the same scale. Keep in mind you can always run an external power supply for the MoRa and pumps. In addition, I went with the Aqua Computer D5 next which can programmed via the onboard display and does not need to be connected via USB.


----------



## HyperMatrix

bearsdidit said:


> I ran into similar issues but not quite at the same scale. Keep in mind you can always run an external power supply for the MoRa and pumps. In addition, I went with the Aqua Computer D5 next which can programmed via the onboard display and does not need to be connected via USB.


The other pumps in my system are the D5 Next. I originally ordered the Mo-Ra3 with 2 of their pumps and planned to reuse 2 of my old D5 pumps in order to save some money. Then I changed my mind and decided I may as well have both units look the same. But already had the 2 Watercool pumps so too late/costly to switch it all up at that point though I was definitely tempted haha.

For the power, I'm planning to run 1x molex power cable to a splitter for each Mo-Ra3. Shouldn't be an issue as it's just 2x D5 and 1x Quadro hub with 18x Arctic P14 fans for each Mo-Ra. So should be roughly 75W per cable. Technically I could run it all off a single molex, though it'd be out of spec which really doesn't matter. 

But yeah the USB cable part is going to be a challenge. Because with the Quadro hub, it'd be nice to be able to control both the pumps and the fans, and also give me temperature readings (have a G1/4 screw temp sensor on Inlet of first Mo-Ra3, and one on Outlet of the second Mo-Ra3) so I can see the exact cooling performance of the units. Nice in/out temperature deltas.


----------



## bearsdidit

HyperMatrix said:


> The other pumps in my system are the D5 Next. I originally ordered the Mo-Ra3 with 2 of their pumps and planned to reuse 2 of my old D5 pumps in order to save some money. Then I changed my mind and decided I may as well have both units look the same. But already had the 2 Watercool pumps so too late/costly to switch it all up at that point though I was definitely tempted haha.
> 
> For the power, I'm planning to run 1x molex power cable to a splitter for each Mo-Ra3. Shouldn't be an issue as it's just 2x D5 and 1x Quadro hub with 18x Arctic P14 fans for each Mo-Ra. So should be roughly 75W per cable. Technically I could run it all off a single molex, though it'd be out of spec which really doesn't matter.
> 
> But yeah the USB cable part is going to be a challenge. Because with the Quadro hub, it'd be nice to be able to control both the pumps and the fans, and also give me temperature readings (have a G1/4 screw temp sensor on Inlet of first Mo-Ra3, and one on Outlet of the second Mo-Ra3) so I can see the exact cooling performance of the units. Nice in/out temperature deltas.



I used this adapter along with a standard USB A extension cable to plug my D5 next to my computer. Personally, I only ran 1 extension cable and left the second pump at a static 40% via the display. Perhaps you could just run 1 per MoRa, just to get the water temp delta.









Amazon.com: CRJ 9-Pin USB IDC Dupont Male Header to Single USB 2.0 Type A Male Cable : Electronics


Buy CRJ 9-Pin USB IDC Dupont Male Header to Single USB 2.0 Type A Male Cable: USB Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com





In reality, all of my pumps and fans are set to 40%. Due to the massive amount of radiator space, I didn't feel the need to ramp up my fans/pump based on water temp. Currently, I average less than a 3c delta while gaming.


----------



## Pk1

My personal experience with Optimus has been extremely good. I finally decided to try out watercooling and figured I would give Optimus a shot. Ordered Sig V2 and Ftw3 block on March 19th. Today April 27th both blocks arrived in pristine condition in nice looking black boxes. I'm excited to try things out over the next few days!


----------



## HyperMatrix

bearsdidit said:


> I used this adapter along with a standard USB A extension cable to plug my D5 next to my computer. Personally, I only ran 1 extension cable and left the second pump at a static 40% via the display. Perhaps you could just run 1 per MoRa, just to get the water temp delta.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: CRJ 9-Pin USB IDC Dupont Male Header to Single USB 2.0 Type A Male Cable : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy CRJ 9-Pin USB IDC Dupont Male Header to Single USB 2.0 Type A Male Cable: USB Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


Thanks for this. Actually gave me a really good idea. Going to try to mount a a male 4-pin Molex connection or two and an internal USB to standard USB female port to a PCIe slot bracket on the PC. Make for much simpler and cleaner runs.


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Thanks for this. Actually gave me a really good idea. Going to try to mount a a male 4-pin Molex connection or two and an internal USB to standard USB female port to a PCIe slot bracket on the PC. Make for much simpler and cleaner runs.


Will look super clean


----------



## LiquidHaus

Alright so who's got the super secret lead on an Alder Lake mount frame from a US retailer? Not trying to buy from Aliexpress and I need one ASAP.


----------



## Avacado

LiquidHaus said:


> Alright so who's got the super secret lead on an Alder Lake mount frame from a US retailer? Not trying to buy from Aliexpress and I need one ASAP.


I bought 2 from ali-express Haus, if they get here i'd be more that happy to send you one.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Avacado said:


> I bought 2 from ali-express Haus, if they get here i'd be more that happy to send you one.


If that would be something you're absolutely sure about, then that'd be amazing. I'll message ya.


----------



## guibed

Just figured I would share my personal experience with Optimus as well if it can help someone. 

I ordered a ftw3 block, Foundation block and D5 reservoir on March 15. At the time of ordering, lead time indicated on their website was 4-5 weeks. I received everything on April 26, which gives exactly 6 weeks between time of order and reception. Not that bad considering everything I had read on the forum and that was really starting to stress me out. I communicated with them 3 times trying to get estimated ETA and each time they responded within 2 days. 

Everything seems to be in perfect condition and is up and running since last week. 

Here's a quick picture of the parts while I was building the rig. It's my first attempt at watercooling and I kept it easy with soft tubing in a 5000D with 3x360 and 1x120 rads.


----------



## iamjanco

Figured this might be the best place to post this: 

Verified on Digikey site; received notice by way of email. Digikey's *suggested substitute* is not the same, nor does it's have the same specs.


----------



## chibi

I'm going a different direction with the PC. What's market price right now in USD or CAD for the following?

1x Intel Sig V2 Cerakote Black with both nickel and copper cold plates
1x FTW Absolute Cerakote Black with both nickel and copper cold plates (GPU Included)
Preinstalled on 3080 Ti FTW3 Ultra (Air Cooler and Retail packaging included Separately

2x Heatkiller Rad 360-S (Pristine clean inners)
1x Intel Core i9-9900KS (Ran stock 5.0 GHz)
1x ASUS Apex z390
1x 16GB (2x8GB Modules) GSKILL DDR4 4800 C18 Kit
1x Corsair AX1600i


----------



## Paramedic10

Got my rig up and running with the Optimus KP block installed. Still working on a few tweaks but I have some initial numbers. I was able to crack 30k in R23 with the Sig V2 on a 12900k, and I'm at 15,982 on PR after a few attempts, so I'm pretty stoked with performance thus far. Here's a few screenshots and a link to the PR run: I scored 15 982 in Port Royal

R23 past 30k









Temps after PR run


















My rig is:
Corsair 7000D Airflow
2x 420mm Corsair Rads w/ML140s [Top and Front]
4x ML120s [Side Intake]
Optimus Complete Reservoir 12"
ZMT Tubing (For now)
12900k W/ Optimus Sig V2
Kingpin 3090 W/ Optimus Block
ASUS Z690-E Gaming


----------



## Avacado

Needs more Optimus.


----------



## Paramedic10

Avacado said:


> Needs more Optimus.


I'll need some of their fittings then 🤣


----------



## GLuE

Paramedic10 said:


> Got my rig up and running with the Optimus KP block installed. Still working on a few tweaks but I have some initial numbers. I was able to crack 30k in R23 with the Sig V2 on a 12900k, and I'm at 15,982 on PR after a few attempts, so I'm pretty stoked with performance thus far. Here's a few screenshots and a link to the PR run: I scored 15 982 in Port Royal
> 
> R23 past 30k
> View attachment 2559198
> 
> 
> Temps after PR run
> View attachment 2559199
> 
> 
> View attachment 2559200
> 
> 
> My rig is:
> Corsair 7000D Airflow
> 2x 420mm Corsair Rads w/ML140s [Top and Front]
> 4x ML120s [Side Intake]
> Optimus Complete Reservoir 12"
> ZMT Tubing (For now)
> 12900k W/ Optimus Sig V2
> Kingpin 3090 W/ Optimus Block
> ASUS Z690-E Gaming


What was your PR before the optimus block?


----------



## bearsdidit

Paramedic10 said:


> I'll need some of their fittings then 🤣


Their fittings are quite nice!


----------



## Paramedic10

GLuE said:


> What was your PR before the optimus block?


15302 in a much colder room


----------



## ciarlatano

Avacado said:


> Needs more Optimus.


----------



## KedarWolf

Paramedic10 said:


> 15302 in a much colder room


You're motivating me to install my ASUS block, which I've had four months, and haven't bothered with it yet.

Still using my EKWB block.


----------



## Shawnb99

bearsdidit said:


> Their fittings are quite nice!


They make the best fittings. Everything they make is top notch... well besides the reservoir, would be better with glass


----------



## Paramedic10

KedarWolf said:


> You're motivating me to install my ASUS block, which I've had four months, and haven't bothered with it yet.
> 
> Still using my EKWB block.


No time like the present!

I'm really happy with the performance so far. Seeing 2220+ mhz stable is pretty cool for ambient temps


----------



## bearsdidit

KedarWolf said:


> You're motivating me to install my ASUS block, which I've had four months, and haven't bothered with it yet.
> 
> Still using my EKWB block.


You spent weeks obsessing over the block and you still haven’t installed it yet? 😂


----------



## KedarWolf

bearsdidit said:


> You spent weeks obsessing over the block and you still haven’t installed it yet? 😂


Yeah, been struggling with motivation and energy these days.

I'm an old guy, I have two speeds, slow and stop.


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> Yeah, been struggling with motivation and energy these days.
> 
> I'm an old guy, I have two speeds, slow and stop.


Take your time tbh. I’be been doing it slower myself now.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> They make the best fittings. Everything they make is top notch... well besides the reservoir, would be better with glass


Lol. Still missing remainder of fittings lineup, glass reservoir, dual d5 top and other stuff among things. Direct die stuff too.


----------



## criskoe

In case anyone cares or is interested. EVGA has some pretty massive discounts on all their 1600w PSUs. Including the T2 for $259!!!!. As long as your a elite member.


----------



## HyperMatrix

criskoe said:


> In case anyone cares or is interested. EVGA has some pretty massive discounts on all their 1600w PSUs. Including the T2 for $259!!!!. As long as your a elite member.


At that price, it doesn't even matter that it will be lacking PCIe 5.0 power connectors for next gen cards. Steal of a deal.


----------



## Shawnb99

HyperMatrix said:


> At that price, it doesn't even matter that it will be lacking PCIe 5.0 power connectors for next gen cards. Steal of a deal.


Does that really matter when the PSU is modular and you can just buy as needed?


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> At that price, it doesn't even matter that it will be lacking PCIe 5.0 power connectors for next gen cards. Steal of a deal.


I still wouldn’t buy unless you need. Depends on your upgrade cycle - one per year makes sense. 3-4years from now just buy new psu then


----------



## criskoe

Shawnb99 said:


> Does that really matter when the PSU is modular and you can just buy as needed?


Nope. Nothing custom cables cables can’t solve. Especially being 1600w.


----------



## criskoe

Section31 said:


> I still wouldn’t buy unless you need. Depends on your upgrade cycle - one per year makes sense. 3-4years from now just buy new psu then


While I agree with this statement I also think this is a little different. A PSU this size will be enough for any future system for a long long time and the crazy long 10 year warranty makes it a totally safe investment. Especially at this price.

but with that said if you already own a 1200w PSU and don’t plan on upgrading anything for like 4-5 years then yeah don’t waste your money just to buy cause it’s on sale.


----------



## iamjanco

criskoe said:


> While I agree with this statement I also think this is a little different. A PSU this size will be enough for any future system for a long long time and the crazy long 10 year warranty makes it a totally safe investment. Especially at this price.
> 
> but with that said if you already own a 1200w PSU and don’t plan on upgrading anything for like 4-5 years then yeah don’t waste your money just to buy cause it’s on sale.


It's a good price. If I didn't already have two of them (1x EVGA and 1x Superflower/Leadex), I'd be ordering one myself.


----------



## acoustic

Just curious what the main differences will be with the new PSUs? I thought it would be a bigger change than just cables that I could simply build myself, which is why I've been holding off.


----------



## D-EJ915

acoustic said:


> Just curious what the main differences will be with the new PSUs? I thought it would be a bigger change than just cables that I could simply build myself, which is why I've been holding off.





https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-atx-v3-psu-standard



This has the differences listed.


----------



## JustinThyme

chibi said:


> I'm going a different direction with the PC. What's market price right now in USD or CAD for the following?
> 
> 1x Intel Sig V2 Cerakote Black with both nickel and copper cold plates
> 1x FTW Absolute Cerakote Black with both nickel and copper cold plates (GPU Included)
> Preinstalled on 3080 Ti FTW3 Ultra (Air Cooler and Retail packaging included Separately
> 
> 2x Heatkiller Rad 360-S (Pristine clean inners)
> 1x Intel Core i9-9900KS (Ran stock 5.0 GHz)
> 1x ASUS Apex z390
> 1x 16GB (2x8GB Modules) GSKILL DDR4 4800 C18 Kit
> 1x Corsair AX1600i


Try market place. There is a section for this.


----------



## Section31

D-EJ915 said:


> https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-atx-v3-psu-standard
> 
> 
> 
> This has the differences listed.


also atx12vo is coming


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Try market place. There is a section for this.


welcome back. I think chibi will sell locally if any


----------



## Keith Myers

D-EJ915 said:


> https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-atx-v3-psu-standard
> 
> 
> 
> This has the differences listed.


The other future difference is both motherboards and power supplies shifting over to the newer ATX12VO form factor. Completely different from ATX12V-v3.0 standard.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> I still wouldn’t buy unless you need. Depends on your upgrade cycle - one per year makes sense. 3-4years from now just buy new psu then


Not sure of EVGA PSU reliability but I've been using my Corsair AX1500i for I guess 7 years now. No issue whatsoever and I've used it through 4 upgrade cycles starting with shunt modded Tri-SLI Titan Xs. Only reason I'd considering upgrading, personally, is for the PCIe 5.0 connectors for next gen cards. But outside of that....a capable 1600W PSU with a long warranty is sort of an investment. And at that price...a dirt cheap investment. Only problem is going to be running 8 separate VGA cables for the connectors for next gen GPUs. Although even that's doable considering I used to run 8 cables for Quad-SLI GTX 680s. Just more trouble for cable management. But for more than half off....I'd find it hard to say no if I didn't already have a high wattage PSU.

Not to mention the associate code works for another 10% off. And shipping to Canada is free as well. So $233.99 USD total. Compared to "sale price" of $680 CAD at Memory Express. Literally a steal.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Keith Myers said:


> The other future difference is both motherboards and power supplies shifting over to the newer ATX12VO form factor. Completely different from ATX12V-v3.0 standard.


From the article you linked: "The maximum power consumption for a single Add-in Card was doubled to 600 W. This is the per-card limit from all sources combined." 

It says the new PSUs will now communicate with the card and determine the power limit for the card. And also that the max of 600W isn't per power cable, but from all sources combined. That's a bit concerning as it seems to imply that simply flashing an XOC bios on a card wouldn't alter the power limit, as the power limit would be communicated by the PSU, and not requested by the GPU. If that's the case, then using the 4 to 1 adapters on current gen PSUs may end up providing more power? Or am I reading too much into this?


----------



## Section31

HyperMatrix said:


> Not sure of EVGA PSU reliability but I've been using my Corsair AX1500i for I guess 7 years now. No issue whatsoever and I've used it through 4 upgrade cycles starting with shunt modded Tri-SLI Titan Xs. Only reason I'd considering upgrading, personally, is for the PCIe 5.0 connectors for next gen cards. But outside of that....a capable 1600W PSU with a long warranty is sort of an investment. And at that price...a dirt cheap investment. Only problem is going to be running 8 separate VGA cables for the connectors for next gen GPUs. Although even that's doable considering I used to run 8 cables for Quad-SLI GTX 680s. Just more trouble for cable management. But for more than half off....I'd find it hard to say no if I didn't already have a high wattage PSU.
> 
> Not to mention the associate code works for another 10% off. And shipping to Canada is free as well. So $233.99 USD total. Compared to "sale price" of $680 CAD at Memory Express. Literally a steal.


It is an steal but my point is make sure you need it. It is not good time to get stuff you maybe will use in the long term.

Lot of things go into the personal decision process. Including spending 239cad on maybe future proof item is questionable considering the ongoing economic situation as well.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> welcome back. I think chibi will sell locally if any


Been checking in from time to time, just not much going on. That and I've been getting dogged with work and all my spare time has been spent recently getting my HD ready for riding season. Did a lot of work on that over the winter and been out several times when weather permits, just not being very cooperative. Got out last weekend after starting work at 4AM Saturday and got out of there around noon and snuck in a few days here and there when it was nice. This weekend is a total loss. Been raining and windy since Friday night. Figures seeing how this is the first Saturday Ive not worked in several months. Client cancelled at the last minute. I needed a break but didn't want to spend it sitting inside with nothing but rain. Nothing exciting with PC. Still the same and my lazy butt still hasn't reworked the plumbing and tied in the MORA yet..


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> Been checking in from time to time, just not much going on. That and I've been getting dogged with work and all my spare time has been spent recently getting my HD ready for riding season. Did a lot of work on that over the winter and been out several times when weather permits, just not being very cooperative. Got out last weekend after starting work at 4AM Saturday and got out of there around noon and snuck in a few days here and there when it was nice. This weekend is a total loss. Been raining and windy since Friday night. Figures seeing how this is the first Saturday Ive not worked in several months. Client cancelled at the last minute. I needed a break but didn't want to spend it sitting inside with nothing but rain. Nothing exciting with PC. Still the same and my lazy butt still hasn't reworked the plumbing and tied in the MORA yet..


Its good to be busy with real life. Take it easy when you can though. I’m getting more busy on personal side, raising an young one takes lot of free time. 

PC world is going to be like with everything going on. Helps i am busy with work and little one so not much urge to upgrade lol.


----------



## D-EJ915

HyperMatrix said:


> From the article you linked: "The maximum power consumption for a single Add-in Card was doubled to 600 W. This is the per-card limit from all sources combined."
> 
> It says the new cards will not communicate with the card and determine the power limit for the card. And also that the max of 600W isn't per power cable, but from all sources combined. That's a bit concerning as it seems to imply that simply flashing an XOC bios on a card wouldn't alter the power limit, as the power limit would be communicated by the PSU, and not requested by the GPU. If that's the case, then using the 4 to 1 adapters on current gen PSUs may end up providing more power? Or am I reading too much into this?


This is one thing I recall hearing about it is basically you're not going to be able to overdraw PSUs in the new spec because they will be hard limited due to the new cable limits / number of cables per PSU "tier".


----------



## dwolvin

So... Fewer fires?


----------



## HyperMatrix

dwolvin said:


> So... Fewer fires?


I'd say 99% of fires are due to the quality of the cable/connector used. Almost every single fire I recall, outside of manufacture defects, has been due to loose fitting connectors/custom cables. And since the rating is now up to 600W...I'd say the risk is amplified. Previous spec was 150W per cable. You're now quadrupling that. So poor connections/cables will be at greater risk of catching fire.


----------



## dwolvin

True, but smarter supplies could also reduce the number of fires since a class C is always going to read as a short at first. If power is cut quickly, it's only going to be a magic smoke moment. But I was mostly making a joke. It'll be interesting to see if this is a learning curve, or a smooth transition.


----------



## inedenimadam

3090TI strix block?


----------



## acoustic

inedenimadam said:


> 3090TI strix block?


you should know better LOL


----------



## Shawnb99

inedenimadam said:


> 3090TI strix block?


Shipping in June 2030!


----------



## inedenimadam

acoustic said:


> you should know better LOL


I would be fine with just about any block honestly, but had to go for the hail mary first.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Just an update on Mo-Ra3 setup. I bought a triple slot pci bracket to cut and mount molex pass through on. Then I found that they used to make them:









Unfortunately that's out of stock but Phobya sells this:










Will need to use 2. But still a more elegant solution. And can run separate cables for each. So likely going to do that.

For the small internal usb cable from the AC Quadra, I ended up connecting it to an adapter that turns it into a standard usb cable which I then connected to a long active usb extension cable which will be plugged into the USB ports on the back of the pc.










This should result in the cleanest cable run possible. Separable USB and Molex power cable to each Quadro on each Mo-Ra3. Along with the much hated ek ZMT tubing with Koolance QDCs to the bracket on the back of the case.










Should finally be done with the setup this month. Although I have a concern with that pass through bracket from Watercool. I'm trying to understand why they're intentionally narrowed so much:











The Koolance one seems to just be a standard pass through:











So I'm wondering what I should do about that. I assumed the one from Watercool would be the best option and ordered it along with the Mo-Ra3. But this extra restriction in the flow path wasnt visible on the product page.


----------



## dwolvin

That's crazy, I'd reach out to them and probably return it...


----------



## GLuE

I did some drilling.


----------



## Paramedic10

I'm pretty sure this isn't supposed to happen...


----------



## JustinThyme

GLuE said:


> View attachment 2560606
> 
> I did some drilling.



I used the same pass through from Mora I thought the same about the slots but when I think about having 5 D5 pumps in the loop there wont be any flow problems. I havent finished it out yet. Not cuttung holes in my Phanteks elite. There are USB ports on the outside to use an OCTO and a grommeted hole right by the PSU to run a molex cable over to power the Octo. May even add a quadro over for the pumps Im actually toying around with using a set of programmable contacts off my aquaero 6 to close and turn on another PSU outside of the case to power the pumps and the fans on the MORA as Im just running short on power connections as it is and thats 4 more or two in the least. One split to run the aquacmmpter controllers and one split to run the pumps. Ill try one cable and spilt it first and see how much its drawing. Its going to be sitting up to 6 ft from the machine so I can set it near an AC vent in the summer and put it in the window in the winter. Too much other stuff going on with work, its gone batsheet crazy and extra time in the summer is spent glamping or riding my HD. Probably be the fall or winter before I get back to it. Sitting here all the fans installed as well as pumps. Its the do over in the case as Im pulling at least to of the 4 out of the case and have to redo the hard tubing in there.

The pass though for the coolant took up my last PCIE slot. Two GPUs and two PCIE Optane drives and its full.


----------



## dwolvin

Paramedic10 said:


> I'm pretty sure this isn't supposed to happen...
> 
> View attachment 2560621
> View attachment 2560623
> View attachment 2560622


What are we lookin at?


----------



## Paramedic10

dwolvin said:


> What are we lookin at?


A leaking KPE block from optimus.



http://imgur.com/a/ZKK05Dm


----------



## HyperMatrix

dwolvin said:


> That's crazy, I'd reach out to them and probably return it...


Wonder how quick their CS will respond. Last time I sent a message to Aqua Computer for something, it took them 2-3 weeks to reply. But definitely questionable that there would be so much constriction for no reason.



GLuE said:


> I did some drilling.


Well fortunately the Koolance part is cheap. And it'd be something I could carry over to any other case in the future. Just unfortunate that the official part from Watercool would be so compromised.



JustinThyme said:


> I used the same pass through from Mora I thought the same about the slots but when I think about having 5 D5 pumps in the loop there wont be any flow problems. I havent finished it out yet. Not cuttung holes in my Phanteks elite. There are USB ports on the outside to use an OCTO and a grommeted hole right by the PSU to run a molex cable over to power the Octo. May even add a quadro over for the pumps Im actually toying around with using a set of programmable contacts off my aquaero 6 to close and turn on another PSU outside of the case to power the pumps and the fans on the MORA as Im just running short on power connections as it is and thats 4 more or two in the least. One split to run the aquacmmpter controllers and one split to run the pumps. Ill try one cable and spilt it first and see how much its drawing. Its going to be sitting up to 6 ft from the machine so I can set it near an AC vent in the summer and put it in the window in the winter. Too much other stuff going on with work, its gone batsheet crazy and extra time in the summer is spent glamping or riding my HD. Probably be the fall or winter before I get back to it. Sitting here all the fans installed as well as pumps. Its the do over in the case as Im pulling at least to of the 4 out of the case and have to redo the hard tubing in there.
> 
> The pass though for the coolant took up my last PCIE slot. Two GPUs and two PCIE Optane drives and its full.


So I'll have 7x D5 pumps in mine. But it's really a point of regardless of flow, that's a very narrow opening and it's just unnecessary flow restriction that could be solved with the $11 Koolance counterpart. Especially since I have more QDCs and 90 degrees bends restricting flow than I can count. So unnecessary extra blockages would best be avoided. Fortunately going with QDCs on both ends of the bracket so I'll be able to quickly swap out to the Koolance one afterwards and see what difference, if any, there is in the flow rate.

If you were looking at setting up an externally powered unit, you could technically set it up with a solid state relay. So whenever it senses power on the 12v DC line which you'd need to feed it, it would give 120v AC to your jumped PSU and power on all attached components . I currently plan to have them all connected to my existing 1500W PSU as I believe I have the headroom for it. Will see what happens with next gen PSUs and their power draw. But going to use the Quadro units attached to each Mo-Ra3 to read input/output water temperatures (g1/4 temp sensors) as well as, if I stop being lazy about it, adjust the 7 pump/66 fan speeds across my 4x rads and 2x Mo-Ra3 based on the loop water temperature so it can go completely silent when I'm not using the PC and want to watch a movie, without turning off the PC.

Getting the Mo-Ra3 closer to the AC will be a future project, haha. Currently hooked up a 12,000 BTU SACC portable AC in my media room, on top of the whole house AC. So it's done a superb job of being able to keep room temp below 20C. But obviously some sub-ambient action with the AC blowing on the Mo-Ra3 units could be fun too. 



Paramedic10 said:


> I'm pretty sure this isn't supposed to happen...
> 
> View attachment 2560621
> View attachment 2560623
> View attachment 2560622


Tempted to tell you that Optimus confirmed that this problem was caused by user error. It'd only be fair, right? Haha. Is it just sweating, or are you able to feel actual water coming out? Have you checked the tightness of the screws? If you have, then it could be a problem with the gasket. Someone shared pictures of damaged gaskets sent to them a few pages back so it's definitely possible. I ran into the same problem with my backplate, but assumed it was due to the bend caused by me fully following the installation instructions to the letter.


----------



## criskoe

Paramedic10 said:


> A leaking KPE block from optimus.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/ZKK05Dm


Cause of the large and thick juicy thermal pad, Optimus blocks are known to leak thermal pad oils EVERYWHERE. Tons of it. Seen posts of even little puddles of oil. Yes puddles. But most importantly the oils seem to even seep upwards as well through the screw holes on the backplate. Even on normal horizontally mounted cards. 

Im guessing this is what your seeing tbh. If your really concerned tho. Disconnect it and pressure test it.


----------



## Paramedic10

criskoe said:


> Cause of the large and thick juicy thermal pad, Optimus blocks are known to leak thermal pad oils EVERYWHERE. Tons of it. Seen posts of even little puddles of oil. Yes puddles. But most importantly the oils seem to even seep upwards as well through the screw holes on the backplate. Even on normal horizontally mounted cards.
> 
> Im guessing this is what your seeing tbh. If your really concerned tho. Disconnect it and pressure test it.


I suppose you could be right. I just panicked when I saw this photo and that center "Optimus" channel seemed like it had water in it, but I suppose it could be the oil.



http://imgur.com/JJ13WIV


As far as I believe, the oil itself isn't actually harmful and is non-conduction/non-corrosive? 

My gasket looks like this:



http://imgur.com/G8wOUNg


----------



## chibi

That's 100% definitely the oil sweating out from the thermal pad. It travels up the screws through the channel and onto the backplate as others have mentioned.


----------



## Paramedic10

chibi said:


> That's 100% definitely the oil sweating out from the thermal pad. It travels up the screws through the channel and onto the backplate as others have mentioned.


Alright thanks, I'll get it all reassembled


----------



## JustinThyme

HyperMatrix said:


> Wonder how quick their CS will respond. Last time I sent a message to Aqua Computer for something, it took them 2-3 weeks to reply. But definitely questionable that there would be so much constriction for no reason.



Well fortunately the Koolance part is cheap. And it'd be something I could carry over to any other case in the future. Just unfortunate that the official part from Watercool would be so compromised.


When I look at the slots in this bracket that looks very nice BTW and I think about the 3 water blocks, the MORA itself, an inline aqaucomputer filter and having enough in pumps Im not the least bit concerned. Yeah the Koolance has no restrictions like that does but to me looks cheap and flimsy. Would stand out like and eyesore in my otherwise very black case. Ill stick with the watercool pass though and report back when I get it all installed and running to let everyone know if it impedes my flow.

The koolance quick connects kick butt though. Back in the day they were the manufacturer to avoid. Everything was mixed metals with a lot of aluminum. I had more than one system I built with koolance that the clear distilled water turned green quick like. Did one with an external system that had a pass through that went to the CPU block (were talking dual core days) that was green in less than a week. I still have it on a shelf in the basement to remind me. The have some products now that are very good and others that its like what happened here? Even JPM uses a water block that's his favorite. He pulled it and tried Optimus then put the Koolance back. I dont blame him. I have 3 optimus CPU blocks back in the boxes. Tried everything they had and ended up with an EK Magnitude. I did a very throrough comparison of the two of them here out of the box and they were both very comparable in performance and one lessson learned is no two IHS curavatures are the same. Not delidding or even thinking about it on a 10980XE. Then I went on and tried the Optimus flat that they said just shoot a message and we will send one for free as we wont be making anymore and even put my name in that post. Well I messaged and nothing. They later put up blem blocks so I bought one just for comparision. For me and my IHS the best fit and thermal transfer is with the EK magnitude and their flat plate that isnt exactly flat, close but no cigar as they finish them on a lathe. The plate on my IHS were just made for each other and thats what I run. Im still on 2080Tis in SLI with watercool blocks. I have no interest in anything other than the Strix 3090s and the blocks for those never came to be from anyone adding to that the cost of the cards. The two 3090s in SLI is the only thing that will beat up on my pair of 2080Tis in SLI, None of the other 30XX have the ability to run SLI so that rules them out. A lot of folks say SLI is dead but its far from it. Still a lot of titles that will run it natively or can be forced. I found using the GTAV profile on most works like a charm. Gaming is just a small part of my GPU use. I do more rendering than anything else with them and use the compute power of that a long with the CPU with a special driver where they all work together and flat crank out the workloads.

Ill have 5 pumps in total and yanking two of the rads in the case. with things as they are with GTR rads and all the other restrictions Im getting 335L/H flow. Two of the pumps are in serial being fed from the D5 Next thats on the bottom of my res so technically its 3 in series. The two being added are on the MORA with a watercool serial head made to fit the MORA. Im gonna run every fan to a different header. Was gonna do all 140mm fans but said screw it and went all 200MM fans push pull so 8 fans instead of 18. The aqaucompter has a relay on it for the extra PSU. My AI1600 PSU is already pretty loaded up and the biggest thing other than power is lack of connections. Hard to believe I managed to use all of the connections and already have some low powered devices WYEd off.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> Its good to be busy with real life. Take it easy when you can though. I’m getting more busy on personal side, raising an young one takes lot of free time.
> 
> PC world is going to be like with everything going on. Helps i am busy with work and little one so not much urge to upgrade lol.


Im an old fart now. My last one has flown the coop but between work and my other crazy hobbies that the summer is just filled up it keeps me jumping. We have a tremendous amount of work going on at several very large Microsoft facilities. Two in Va and one in Wyoming. The UPS power they have up in these places is just unbelievable!!. All 3 sites are are laid out the same with 64 Megawatts of critical power each all with very large banks of lithium batteries. Unreal! I dont travel much these days but now that half of our people are working out of our region that leaves the people left busier than a one armed paper hanger. My short weeks are 60 hours and go upwards of 90 hours going 7 days a week.

My latest addition to my love of music. Been looking for a pair of these forever. Vinatge Polk Audio SDA SRS. These puppies are 65 inches tall and 1000W per speaker and weight 185 lbs each. Just picked them up today. Cant get them like this anymore. These were made in 1985. Just for scale the woofers are 15 inches and each of the 8 mids in each cabinet are 6.5 inches.


----------



## Shawnb99

More nickel plating issues.


----------



## acoustic

Eek. That's in a bad spot too.


----------



## StAndrew

Shawnb99 said:


> More nickel plating issues.
> 
> View attachment 2560925


I thought their nickel platting process was supposed to be the bee's knees. Man, I'm so glad I returned mine but at the same time I'm disappointed. I had high hopes in Optimus.


----------



## Shawnb99

StAndrew said:


> I thought their nickel platting process was supposed to be the bee's knees. Man, I'm so glad I returned mine but at the same time I'm disappointed. I had high hopes in Optimus.


Yeah same. After all the issues with the KPE blocks, and twice now with nickel plating issues on the Sig2 blocks , I'm going back to my Heatkiller block


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah same. After all the issues with the KPE blocks, and twice now with nickel plating issues on the Sig2 blocks , I'm going back to my Heatkiller block


By time you and me upgrade, watercool will have new cpu blocks out maybe even direct die lol


----------



## acoustic

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah same. After all the issues with the KPE blocks, and twice now with nickel plating issues on the Sig2 blocks , I'm going back to my Heatkiller block


Sucks. I really don't like seeing a US company fail in this way.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Sucks. I really don't like seeing a US company fail in this way.


Who knows what going on. Optimus needs to get bottom of this. I would consider doing same as Shawnb99 but i'm not upgrading till Lunarlake so whatever happens to the block screw it. By then, there will be new blocks for me.


----------



## StAndrew

acoustic said:


> Sucks. I really don't like seeing a US company fail in this way.


Their patented "double mcfckit didn't work out well for them. 



ArchStanton said:


> Every questionable design choice or manufacturing shortcut is just a marketing opportunity in disguise .
> 
> View attachment 2552426


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Who knows what going on. Optimus needs to get bottom of this. I would consider doing same as Shawnb99 but i'm not upgrading till Lunarlake so whatever happens to the block screw it. By then, there will be new blocks for me.


Both time flaking was the same block, first the cold plate and now the top after it was in storage for a year or so.


----------



## Keith Myers

Since they don't have their own plating services. The vendor they are choosing for their plating is failing. Optimus is failing for not catching the quality degradation and moving to a better plating facility.


----------



## dwolvin

Can you even get straight copper from them? I feel like I'd just rather have that, even if it's a little copper in the window messing up the looks.


----------



## Shawnb99

Keith Myers said:


> Since they don't have their own plating services. The vendor they are choosing for their plating is failing. Optimus is failing for not catching the quality degradation and moving to a better plating facility.


As I mentioned, both instances for me were the same block. They may have moved to a better facility


----------



## Keith Myers

dwolvin said:


> Can you even get straight copper from them? I feel like I'd just rather have that, even if it's a little copper in the window messing up the looks.


I've always bought copper from them. Always available and not a single problem with any of my blocks.


----------



## dwolvin

Oh yeah, your block was in storage for a year, how old is it in total?


----------



## Shawnb99

dwolvin said:


> Oh yeah, your block was in storage for a year, how old is it in total?


Dec 2019 was when I got it.


----------



## StAndrew

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah same. After all the issues with the KPE blocks, and twice now with nickel plating issues on the Sig2 blocks , I'm going back to my Heatkiller block


Do you run the block without the middle gasket? It's odd that it's flaking in that area; there shouldn't be any turbulence in that part of the block...


----------



## Shawnb99

StAndrew said:


> Do you run the block without the middle gasket? It's odd that it's flaking in that area; there shouldn't be any turbulence in that part of the block...


No just removed it to “clean” it and noticed the flaking


----------



## StAndrew

Shawnb99 said:


> No just removed it to “clean” it and noticed the flaking


Yeah, I thought as much. 

Its a weird spot to be flaking. I'd expect the base to flake off as I think you said already happened. Will Optimus warranty it?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Section31 said:


> By time you and me upgrade, watercool will have new cpu blocks out maybe even direct die lol


I know they're working on a Heatkiller V Pro. Not sure on ETA though.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> I know they're working on a Heatkiller V Pro. Not sure on ETA though.


I heard too, i'm not in rush. No updates planned till Lunarlake.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> I know they're working on a Heatkiller V Pro. Not sure on ETA though.


I'm still heavy into the keyboard world lol. Experimenting with new instock keycaps and upcoming switches.


----------



## Ashcroft

Shawnb99 said:


> More nickel plating issues.
> 
> View attachment 2560925


Oh damn, that sucks, sorry mate.

I guess if it sounds too good to be true it often is.

If that is actual damage of the surface right through to the copper its interesting that its right in the main flow path. Its more usual to see it where flow is lowest like around edges of O-rings or where water is trapped between the base and top directly touching.


----------



## Section31

If anyone want an keyboard, someguy on reddit offering an keycult among things


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/utw6i2


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> More nickel plating issues.
> 
> View attachment 2560925


Thats putting it lightly! How much run time on this and what are you using for coolant, not that the coolant should matter. For a "Bullet Proof" electroless plating there sure seems to be plenty of plating issues. Fortunately mine stayed in the loop just long enough for the plating on the cold plate to peel off like a banana and clog my inline filter (glad I had one in there). They sent me a new plate and I ran it for a little while. There are 3 Optimus CPU blocks stacked up on my shelf. One of each of the originals then a gamble on a blem with a flat copper cold plate that didn't work as expected. I never bought any GPU blocks as Im still running 2080TIs, glad I didnt now as this just seems to be the norm. So many jumping EK about plating issues. The magnitude thats been in my loop for almost a year now with zero issues and two watercool GPU blocks with no plating issues either. I think its time to ditch the current method and put some juice on those puppies!!


----------



## JustinThyme

Ashcroft said:


> Oh damn, that sucks, sorry mate.
> 
> I guess if it sounds too good to be true it often is.
> 
> If that is actual damage of the surface right through to the copper its interesting that its right in the main flow path. Its more usual to see it where flow is lowest like around edges of O-rings or where water is trapped between the base and top directly touching.


That top is brass.


----------



## KedarWolf

I'm getting really terrible hotspot temps on my EKWB block. Like just gaming 90+ which is horrible.

This is motivating me to FINALLY install my Optimus Strix block which I've had for four or five months or something crazy like that.

I'm off work Monday and Tuesday so I'll likely install it tomorrow.

I will let you peeps know how it goes.


----------



## satinghostrider

KedarWolf said:


> I'm getting really terrible hotspot temps on my EKWB block. Like just gaming 90+ which is horrible.
> 
> This is motivating me to FINALLY install my Optimus Strix block which I've had for four or five months or something crazy like that.
> 
> I'm off work Monday and Tuesday so I'll likely install it tomorrow.
> 
> I will let you peeps know how it goes.


What thermal paste are you using? My Strix 3080 Ti hotspot delta is like this with Gelid Extreme GPU die side and Extreme on the rear.


----------



## acoustic

What TIM? When did it start? What was your Hotspot temp delta to Core temp?


----------



## KedarWolf

acoustic said:


> What TIM? When did it start? What was your Hotspot temp delta to Core temp?





acoustic said:


> What TIM? When did it start? What was your Hotspot temp delta to Core temp?


I have it on an EKWB AIO with two quick disconnects. With warm room temps, I get around 60C core and memory, a 90C hotspot just running Diablo 3. 

I don't know how long it was going on but when I shared an EZBench benchmark with HWInfo, someone mentioned my hotspot was 117C, that was when I found out. 😱

I use all Gelid Extreme thermal pads and SYY thermal paste.


----------



## acoustic

Oh yeah.. you've got a bad mount then. I've never heard of Hotspot temps deteriorating over time.

My EK block delta (WaterT to core) has gone up to 17-18c, but I had some flux in the loop when I last drained and didn't have replacement pads to tear the GPU apart. I'm fairly certain the fins are clogged up. I had a 13-14c delta at 450watt originally.


----------



## bearsdidit

KedarWolf said:


> I have it on an EKWB AIO with two quick disconnects. With warm room temps, I get around 60C core and memory, a 90C hotspot just running Diablo 3.
> 
> I don't know how long it was going on but when I shared an EZBench benchmark with HWInfo, someone mentioned my hotspot was 117C, that was when I found out. 😱
> 
> I use all Gelid Extreme thermal pads and SYY thermal paste.


You’ll absolutely love the Strix block. My max core temp is 37c and memory is maxed at 57c.


----------



## KedarWolf

bearsdidit said:


> You’ll absolutely love the Strix block. My max core temp is 37c and memory is maxed at 57c.


I don't know what's going on with my Strix block. It's like I can't get a proper mount. My idle temps are +70C and my hotspot almost 90C, on idle. 

I mounted the block twice.

Edit: And I see the thermal putty is nowhere near to making contact with the block. I used the pads on the memory etc.


----------



## KedarWolf

KedarWolf said:


> I don't know what's going on with my Strix block. It's like I can't get a proper mount. My idle temps are +70C and my hotspot almost 90C, on idle.
> 
> I mounted the block twice.
> 
> Edit: And I see the thermal putty is nowhere near to making contact with the block. I used the pads on the memory etc.


I sorted it out, had a bubble or something. While gaming my GPU is under 40, my hotspot and memory around 50.

I need to redo the thermal putty though, I used nowhere near enough and mostly not contacting the block.


----------



## KedarWolf

KedarWolf said:


> I sorted it out, had a bubble or something.
> 
> I need to redo the thermal putty though, I used nowhere near enough and mostly not contacting the block.


I forgot I had Afterburner at minimum settings.

Afterburner power limit and voltages maxed out. Running Diablo 3


.


----------



## criskoe

KedarWolf said:


> I sorted it out, had a bubble or something. While gaming my GPU is under 40, my hotspot and memory around 50.
> 
> I need to redo the thermal putty though, I used nowhere near enough and mostly not contacting the block.


Optimus supplies thermal putty with their blocks now? Or are you talking about adding your own thermal putty to the chokes? 

If that's what your referring to, you don't really need too unless your dead set on doing it. Almost all of the waterblock manufactures are on record for saying that the chokes dont need to be cooled... Unless your suffering from coil whine Id just leave it unless you have to tear it down for other reasons cause the thin memory pads tear real easy. Thats just my 2 cents.


----------



## KedarWolf

criskoe said:


> Optimus supplies thermal putty with their blocks now? Or are you talking about adding your own thermal putty to the chokes?
> 
> If that's what your referring to, you don't really need too unless your dead set on doing it. Almost all of the waterblock manufactures are on record for saying that the chokes dont need to be cooled... Unless your suffering from coil whine Id just leave it unless you have to tear it down for other reasons cause the thin memory pads tear real easy. Thats just my 2 cents.


Yeah, on the chokes. I tore the original pads that came with the block, but had backup 12 wm/k GELID Extreme which are super soft. Used those.


----------



## criskoe

KedarWolf said:


> Yeah, on the chokes. I tore the original pads that came with the block, but had backup 12 wm/k GELID Extreme which are super soft. Used those.


I see. Yeah, I still think its not necessary. But for sure do it if you will sleep better at night and have the time. My guess is it might actually raise your other temps a bit cause you will be effectively be dumping more heat into your block and coolant with the added heat from the chokes. My other guess is there will be zero performance gains to be had by cooling them too. Chokes like to be warm.. With that said only thing that would really matter is coil whine.

I'm sure if you decide to do it though that some other people here might like to see if you can find and post any actual performance differences and temp changes with some controlled extended tests to fully simulate a heat soaked system. Not just single runs of 3dmark. Cause who knows, It might actually turn out to be beneficial even though I doubt it.


----------



## Section31

German Engineered Bend Aids for Intels LGA1700 – Thermal Grizzly CPU Contact Frame and Alphacool Apex Backplate Thermal Testing | Review | Page 5 | igor'sLAB


The LGA1700 socket, which Intel introduced for the 12th generation of their Core CPUs last November, is known to have one or two problems with bending hardware. For context, I recommend our other two…




www.igorslab.de





Curious what gains would we get with top end blocks. Might try the thermal grizzly one since i have delid tool, copper ihs coming and spare thermalright silver king.

I see minimum risk since if i fail, i just buy an 13900K


----------



## acoustic

I dunno. I feel like the Heatkiller backplate is likely helping against the bending issue, the one they offer with their block. I've been tempted to grab the Thermal Grizzly ILM replacement for testing, but I don't really have any temp issues and it seems to be difficult to find in-stock. I have two cores slightly warmer than others but that's normal.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> German Engineered Bend Aids for Intels LGA1700 – Thermal Grizzly CPU Contact Frame and Alphacool Apex Backplate Thermal Testing | Review | Page 5 | igor'sLAB
> 
> 
> The LGA1700 socket, which Intel introduced for the 12th generation of their Core CPUs last November, is known to have one or two problems with bending hardware. For context, I recommend our other two…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.igorslab.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curious what gains would we get with top end blocks. Might try the thermal grizzly one since i have delid tool, copper ihs coming and spare thermalright silver king.
> 
> I see minimum risk since if i fail, i just buy an 13900K


If I have to RMA both my Z690 boards then I'll likely wait for that as well.


----------



## bearsdidit

Section31 said:


> https://www.igorslab.de/en/german-e...d-alphacool-apex-backplate-thermal-testing/5/
> Curious what gains would we get with top end blocks. Might try the thermal grizzly one since i have delid tool, copper ihs coming and spare thermalright silver king.
> 
> I see minimum risk since if i fail, i just buy an 13900K


I just received my TG contact frame in but have been too lazy to install it. Fingers crossed for a 5c reduction!


----------



## Shawnb99

bearsdidit said:


> I just received my TG contact frame in but have been too lazy to install it. Fingers crossed for a 5c reduction!


I want one of those, sadly out of stock. Oh well. We'll see what deliding and going with the copper IHS does.


----------



## bearsdidit

Shawnb99 said:


> I want one of those, sadly out of stock. Oh well. We'll see what deliding and going with the copper IHS does.


If I don’t get around to it within the next few weeks, I’ll let you know!


----------



## Section31

bearsdidit said:


> I just received my TG contact frame in but have been too lazy to install it. Fingers crossed for a 5c reduction!


Tell us how it goes. I got the thermalright in from ali to test out (cheap). Will get thermal grizzly if good


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I want one of those, sadly out of stock. Oh well. We'll see what deliding and going with the copper IHS does.


If we fail, an 13900k should be affordable replacement. Worthwhile gamble


----------



## LiquidHaus

Never mounted the 12900KS before using the TG Frame, so I don't have a good A-B. Optimized defaults ended up seeing four P cores at 5.5ghz at 71c max temp during Cinebench R23 Multi-Core runs.

Mainly tested it to make sure I had the right pressure applied to the Frame. I personally followed derbauer's specs; two finger snug, then a final single 90 degree turn on each corner. Was nervous about losing functionality and having to redo the mount, but everything seems good so far.


----------



## chibi

LiquidHaus said:


> Never mounted the 12900KS before using the TG Frame, so I don't have a good A-B. Optimized defaults ended up seeing four P cores at 5.5ghz at 71c max temp during Cinebench R23 Multi-Core runs.
> 
> Mainly tested it to make sure I had the right pressure applied to the Frame. I personally followed derbauer's specs; two finger snug, then a final single 90 degree turn on each corner. Was nervous about losing functionality and having to redo the mount, but everything seems good so far.


Is this delid, liquid metal, on your yuel beast 4x 360 rad config? If not, what achieved this temp?


----------



## LiquidHaus

chibi said:


> Is this delid, liquid metal, on your yuel beast 4x 360 rad config? If not, what achieved this temp?


It's legit just the frame, and KPx. No delid, or liquid metal.

It's gonna be used on a new yuel beast build, but it's still slowing getting put together. Since this was an initial test, I used one of my 560mm EXT setups.










HWL Nemesis GTX, AC Aqualis D5, Noiseblocker eLoop 140, Koolance QD3H.


----------



## iamjanco

LiquidHaus said:


> It's legit just the frame, and KPx. No delid, or liquid metal.


Moving forward and just for the record, it'd probably be best if you shared a screenshot of the app used to record temps, clocks, etc., when making claims some might find dubious. Not trying to be a pain, it's just the way enthusiast overclockers view such claims and has nothing to do with who one is (or who one thinks they are).

Nice build, btw


----------



## LiquidHaus

iamjanco said:


> Moving forward and just for the record, it'd probably be best if you shared a screenshot of the app used to record temps, clocks, etc., when making claims some might find dubious. Not trying to be a pain, it's just the way enthusiast overclockers view such claims and has nothing to do with who one is (or who one thinks they are).
> 
> Nice build, btw


Hey man!

Haha yeah of course, I guess I get swept into the mindset of social media posting more than forum posting. I forget the forums demand proof! Lol. I'll be happy to set it up again and run it. I had to rearrange the workspace as another content creator is flying into town for a YouTube video. Once that's wrapped up, I am happy to do what you guys request to prove the claim.

I haven't kept up with other 12900KS owners performance experiences, but I do have a 12900K as well. The 12900K from my Aorus Spotlight build will get to 100c rather quickly. However that's also utilizing the original motherboard CPU mount, on top of a loop that includes a 3080, and that doesn't breathe nearly as well as an external radiator. 

I realize the i7's and i9's get pretty toasty, but it's also relative to the situation. One trick for myself is when I did that Cinebench run, it was early in the morning so I had a better ambient. A few hours later and it's much warmer. If I had did the run then, I'm sure temps would be have been "normal" as to not attract dubious readers.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> Never mounted the 12900KS before using the TG Frame, so I don't have a good A-B. Optimized defaults ended up seeing four P cores at 5.5ghz at 71c max temp during Cinebench R23 Multi-Core runs.
> 
> Mainly tested it to make sure I had the right pressure applied to the Frame. I personally followed derbauer's specs; two finger snug, then a final single 90 degree turn on each corner. Was nervous about losing functionality and having to redo the mount, but everything seems good so far.


Will definitely get ahold of one of these when i can and for next maintenance this year will do so. I should buy an 13900K (don't open) and if anything goes wrong with delid have an backup CPU. Going to replace my NVME drive with bigger 2TB-4TB options to store kid photos while i wait for Synology to higher end CPU for consumer NAS.


----------



## Section31

@LiquidHaus Also nice to see you posting here again. Thank you the other older members for coming back too, this thread while always off-topic is lot more pleasant to discuss things now again.


----------



## sakete

I see that the Lian Li V3000+ case might finally come out in a few months here. Thinking of redoing my build in that case, and getting some new rads. Are the Heatkiller rads any good, and worth the premium?


----------



## chibi

They're pretty good. Low restriction and and excellent thermals for low speed fans. I have 2x 360-s in black for sale if you're interested. They've been thoroughly flushed and in great shape.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Finally got time to work on the Mo-Ra3 setup...which is long long overdue.

*Power:*

I decided against running 12V from 4-pin molex power connector to run each Mo-Ra3. Had concerns about both voltage drop over length, as well as potential issues with high wattage draw and resistance over that distance. The less I steal from my PSU the better as well, considering how much power my system already draws.
To get around that issue, and still not have to set up a separate power supply that I'd need to turn on/off to power it, I decided to still run the 12V molex power connector from the PC, but use it as a trigger for a 3-32V solid state DC relay powered by a separate 12V 10A adapter. So I will still get proper on/off with the PC without manual intervention required. This also lets me, if I need to in the future, bypass the trigger and relay completely and have the 12V adapter powered on/off through a WiFi power switch which can be set up to turn on through various methods.

*Fans/Controller/Sensors:*

I added 2x G1/4 temperature sensors to the unit. I was debating between using the ones that have a probe sticking out (by using one of the optional side G1/4 ports), vs one that threaded right on to the port that your tubes are connected to. The one threaded right on your main tube line would be the most accurate, but I decided against it due to esthetics, as well as quicker availability of the other style. I may end up regretting this decision and swapping them in later. So between these two, I ended up choosing the one with the green o-ring.
















Since I'm using an Aquacomputer Quadro fan controller, I have 4 fan connectors and 4 sensor connections. There are 18 Arctic P14 PWM PST fans on each Mo-Ra3 (push/pull). The 9 fans on each side are daisy chained and plugged into a separate fan connector on the Quadro. That leaves 2 additional fan connections which are occupied by the PWM cables from each of the 2 pumps on each Mo-Ra3.
2 of the temperature sensor connections are used for the G1/4 sensors mentioned above. I wanted to have a good measure of the water temperature was going into, as well as exiting the Mo-Ra3. This would give me a good sense of the cooling performance of each unit, depending on the accuracy of the sensors. But there's another metric that was missing:
for the remaining 2 temperature sensors, I decided to stick those wire temperature sensors that come with the Quadro and other fan controllers. One on the intake side, and one on exhaust. So aside from water temps going in and coming out, I'll also have air temps going in and coming out. The temperature of air coming out isn't important and I mainly did this so I'd have a measure of ambient room temperature to be able to compare against my loop performance more easily. But it's all for science!

*Connections:*

As mentioned in a previous post, I'm using an adapter to convert the internal USB connector that the Quadro needs, to a standard USB 2.0 Type A cable, which then plugs in to an active USB 2.0 cable which will be plugged into the back USB ports of my computer.
All the inlet/outlet ports of the PCI bracket, as well as the Mo-Ra3 units, as well as the tubing that connects one Mo-Ra3 to the other, is using Koolance QD3 quick connects
In order to make things as easy to move around as possible, both the adapter connected to the wall, as well as the molex 4 pin power connector coming from the Phobya PCI bracket I bought, connect to the unit through standard 5.5mm x 2.1mm DC adapter plugs.
So when all's said and done, for these Mo-Ra3, I will have to run 2x DC power adapters to the wall, 2x active USB extension cables from the PC, as well as 2 Molex 4 pin power cables as a trigger (or 1 if I use a splitter when I get to the Mo-Ra3s).
I'm considering creating a separate little box where the USB cables from the PC and adapters from the wall are mounted, next to the units. And then just have the Mo-Ra3 side of things have very short cables that plug in to that box. This way I can disconnect the units and move them for whatever reason, without having a mess of cables or attachments hanging from it.
*Conclusion:*
Just finished with the first unit. Hoping to start on the second one tomorrow night, but will see what happens. For an ideal setup, I'm going to need to order another male QD3 so that'll delay the build a bit. But at least I'll have everything else ready to go. Cable management was a B word. And I cut my hands several times on the very sharp edges on the stainless steel of the Mo-Ra3. Not very German of them. But definitely happy with how it's turning out. Best part is that my existing 4 radiators and 30 fans are also connected through Aquacomputer Octo fan controllers. So I'll likely be able to set up some very nice automatic ramping up/down of both fans as well as pump speeds for nearly dead silent operation when idle. And I have enough sensors in there now to read every potential metric and take the guess work out of how much cooling you can get out of these units, and how much something like the Demcifilter affects the cooling performance.

Anyway, this is where I'm at so far. 1 down, 1 to go:


----------



## criskoe

I use Demcifilter filters for all my builds. I really like them. Sure there is a small hit but it really helps keep system clean....


----------



## chibi

I have a mora 420 coming next week. Time another another 2-3 month flush?


----------



## HyperMatrix

chibi said:


> I have a mora 420 coming next week. Time another another 2-3 month flush?


I’ll be honest. I’ve never cleaned out a loop before. Get way too much anxiety thinking about it. Hoping with the mayhems xt-1 nuke v2 which is supposed to last 5 years, along with ZMT, and the filters in the Aquacomputer ultitube that I’ll be good for a few years. My build is way too much of a PITA to even think about dismantling or relocating to clean.

Hit a temporary snag with my Mo-Ra3 setup. Apparently the unit needs both 12V to power the fans, as well as 5V to power the controller itself. So my 12V adapter turns on the pumps but not the controllers/fans. Going to see about adding in yet another adapter for the 5V now. Haha.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Hooking up a second 5V adapter for the Quadro worked. Will have to tidy it all up later. But very impressed with the performance increase of just the 1 Mo-Ra3 added to the loop now. Will hopefully wire up and add the second unit in tomorrow (or I guess "later today"). The PCI bracket for the G1/4 passthrough didn't fit in the Corsair 1000D. I had to cut one of them out. I decided on having the loop go out to the Mo-Ra3s right before hitting the GPU. Since GPU temperatures gain more of a benefit with just a few degrees than your CPU does. 


































And performance so far:









With up to 600W usage depending on the game, max I was hitting was 34C. Again this is with just 1 of the Mo-Ra3 units hooked up. Seems to be able to keep temperatures within 1-2C of ambient room temperature. This is with my case fans at 100% too (30x 3000 RPM fans on 2x 480 and 2x 360 HWL GTR rads). So ideally if I could get this level of cooling performance or perhaps a little better, with the dust filters added on them, case fans dropped down to 50% to drop the noise levels, and side of case completely closed off, I'd be very happy. 

I ended up having to remove one of my pumps. So currently have 4 pumps active. Getting 256 L/h, or 1.12 GPM, which is a lot higher than I was expecting considering I have tons of quick disconnects and 90 degree fittings, as well as restrictive GPU block and optimus CPU block, as well as 4 very restrictive HWL radiators. Consdering the current numbers, I'm expecting to hit 300+ L/h or 1.32+ GPM with the other Mo-Ra3 added, making it 6x D5 pumps. I'll have to see if I'm going to keep the 7th D5 pump as a spare, or find a way to work it into the loop somewhere. If I could hit 1.5 GPM with 7 pump, I'd do it. May as well when running 66 fans. Haha.

The funniest thing to see is running a game at around 400W and having GPU temps sustained at 27-28C. Can't say I've ever experienced that before in my life.


----------



## acoustic

Shawnb99 said:


> I want one of those, sadly out of stock. Oh well. We'll see what deliding and going with the copper IHS does.


I did the Copper IHS. I don't know if I just have no bending issues due to the backplate for the Heatkiller IV Pro, but my core temps are very even (except 1-2 cores that are always slightly hotter, but that's normal). I seen a nice drop in temps with the delid/copper IHS relid.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Finally finished setting up both Mo-Ra3 units. Doing some testing, and it seems even with around 600W GPU load, it's able to keep at about 1.2C above ambient room temperature. This is after a 1 hour run:










In the sensors section on the bottom right, the 2 Air Intake ones are standard 2 wire temperature sensors placed on the grill by the intake of the rads. I have one on each rad to get a better average temperature. The gauges are Mo-Ra3 #1 In, Out, Mo-Ra3 #2 In, Out, and the last one is a from a flow sensor stuck right on top of the GPU, showing the temperature of water as it exits the GPU. The 4th gauge, which is the Mo-Ra3 #2 Outlet goes directly into the GPU. So we can see the water temperature going into the GPU, and what it is coming out. Before the water makes its way from the 25.1C GPU outlet in the screenshot above to the 24.3C water inlet on the first Mo-Ra3, it's going through my existing 4x radiator setup and CPU. So that's why it's already dropped a bit there.

Good scientific info to have. Can see the exact performance of the Optimus block. I pushed the clocks even higher after I saw how stable the water/gpu temperatures were. Will how to see how stable that is in different games.









This is with my case closed back up, and my 3000RPM fans on my internal rads brought down to 50%. Dust filters on all rads including the Mo-Ra3s. Fans on the Mo-Ra3 still at 100% RPM as they're quiet 1700rpm fans. Flow rate is currently 296 L/h or 1.3 GPM. Definitely impressed with their performance.

Unfortunately I did have a bit of an incident. I was trying to fill the Mo-Ra3 by hooking them up to the system, but leaving them off, and refilling my reservoirs as the water was draining from them. It worked fine for the first unit. But when I came to do the second one, I shut down the system, and I'm guessing the fact that they're placed so much higher than my PC, caused gravity to pull the water back down, overflowing my open reservoir, and pouring on my system. I'm guessing roughly half a liter total. I shut down the system and put my dyson in front of it on heat mode for a while after drying out what I could with paper towels. However, the D5 Next pump at the bottom of that reservoir seems to have been hit with water and is now constantly clicking. Not the pump itself, but the buttons on the unit which emit a click sound when pressed. It keeps clicking repeatedly and going through the menus. Not sure if it'll resolve as it dries out over the next few days, or if it'll need to be replaced.


----------



## Biggu

HyperMatrix said:


> Unfortunately I did have a bit of an incident. I was trying to fill the Mo-Ra3 by hooking them up to the system, but leaving them off, and refilling my reservoirs as the water was draining from them. It worked fine for the first unit. But when I came to do the second one, I shut down the system, and I'm guessing the fact that they're placed so much higher than my PC, caused gravity to pull the water back down, overflowing my open reservoir, and pouring on my system. I'm guessing roughly half a liter total. I shut down the system and put my dyson in front of it on heat mode for a while after drying out what I could with paper towels. However, the D5 Next pump at the bottom of that reservoir seems to have been hit with water and is now constantly clicking. Not the pump itself, but the buttons on the unit which emit a click sound when pressed. It keeps clicking repeatedly and going through the menus. Not sure if it'll resolve as it dries out over the next few days, or if it'll need to be replaced.


no fun. I think you can buy just the control panel piece so that's helpful. Though I just checked and couldn't find it. Im sure if you send support a message they can get you one. 

I noticed my foundation block was starting to get darker and my res was starting to cloud up so I spent some time yesterday and cleaned it up. I'm shocked the nickle plating on the cold plate was still absolutely perfect.


----------



## Shawnb99

HyperMatrix said:


> However, the D5 Next pump at the bottom of that reservoir seems to have been hit with water and is now constantly clicking. Not the pump itself, but the buttons on the unit which emit a click sound when pressed. It keeps clicking repeatedly and going through the menus. Not sure if it'll resolve as it dries out over the next few days, or if it'll need to be replaced.


That'll need replacing. Did the same thing and had the same issue. Drying it out didn't help anything. Only a new controller will fix it.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Shawnb99 said:


> That'll need replacing. Did the same thing and had the same issue. Drying it out didn't help anything. Only a new controller will fix it.


How do you otherwise like that pump?


----------



## Shawnb99

Sir Beregond said:


> How do you otherwise like that pump?


Not a fan of how it won’t go under 2k rpm, temp Sensor is nice, controller is too big. Flow meter on it is a gimmick 
Likely will be selling them when I do my next tear down. Also disappointed with only 1.3GPM from 6 at max, even with my massive loop.


----------



## KedarWolf

HyperMatrix said:


> Finally finished setting up both Mo-Ra3 units. Doing some testing, and it seems even with around 600W GPU load, it's able to keep at about 1.2C above ambient room temperature. This is after a 1 hour run:
> 
> View attachment 2563010
> 
> 
> In the sensors section on the bottom right, the 2 Air Intake ones are standard 2 wire temperature sensors placed on the grill by the intake of the rads. I have one on each rad to get a better average temperature. The gauges are Mo-Ra3 #1 In, Out, Mo-Ra3 #2 In, Out, and the last one is a from a flow sensor stuck right on top of the GPU, showing the temperature of water as it exits the GPU. The 4th gauge, which is the Mo-Ra3 #2 Outlet goes directly into the GPU. So we can see the water temperature going into the GPU, and what it is coming out. Before the water makes its way from the 25.1C GPU outlet in the screenshot above to the 24.3C water inlet on the first Mo-Ra3, it's going through my existing 4x radiator setup and CPU. So that's why it's already dropped a bit there.
> 
> Good scientific info to have. Can see the exact performance of the Optimus block. I pushed the clocks even higher after I saw how stable the water/gpu temperatures were. Will how to see how stable that is in different games.
> View attachment 2563013
> 
> 
> This is with my case closed back up, and my 3000RPM fans on my internal rads brought down to 50%. Dust filters on all rads including the Mo-Ra3s. Fans on the Mo-Ra3 still at 100% RPM as they're quiet 1700rpm fans. Flow rate is currently 296 L/h or 1.3 GPM. Definitely impressed with their performance.
> 
> Unfortunately I did have a bit of an incident. I was trying to fill the Mo-Ra3 by hooking them up to the system, but leaving them off, and refilling my reservoirs as the water was draining from them. It worked fine for the first unit. But when I came to do the second one, I shut down the system, and I'm guessing the fact that they're placed so much higher than my PC, caused gravity to pull the water back down, overflowing my open reservoir, and pouring on my system. I'm guessing roughly half a liter total. I shut down the system and put my dyson in front of it on heat mode for a while after drying out what I could with paper towels. However, the D5 Next pump at the bottom of that reservoir seems to have been hit with water and is now constantly clicking. Not the pump itself, but the buttons on the unit which emit a click sound when pressed. It keeps clicking repeatedly and going through the menus. Not sure if it'll resolve as it dries out over the next few days, or if it'll need to be replaced.


I've found placing things that have gotten wet in the oven overnight at a very low temp like 130F/55C helps dry things out and they may work again.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Shawnb99 said:


> Not a fan of how it won’t go under 2k rpm, temp Sensor is nice, controller is too big. Flow meter on it is a gimmick
> Likely will be selling them when I do my next tear down. Also disappointed with only 1.3GPM from 6 at max, even with my massive loop.


Hmm, yeah I've heard mixed things as well.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> That'll need replacing. Did the same thing and had the same issue. Drying it out didn't help anything. Only a new controller will fix it.
> 
> Flow meter on it is a gimmick


I just set the display to only show 1 item (temperature) and locked the keys through Aquasuite so even if it doesn't get properly fixed, the problem still won't exist anymore. Not worth spending on a repairing a feature I honestly never use. And imo, it's absolutely crazy that a pump that's sitting underneath the reservoir, where any leakage or spill, which is bound to happen, doesn't have any form of seal or protection. All the plastic bits and pieces around it are completely loose. The same thing happened to a friend's pumps.

Regarding the flow meter, it's not just a gimmick. It's a lie. It's virtualized flow rate and even then only for use with a single pump.



KedarWolf said:


> I've found placing things that have gotten wet in the oven overnight at a very low temp like 130F/55C helps dry things out and they may work again.


The problem I have is that the Mayhems XT-1 Nuke coolant leaves this greasy feeling residue that I can't quite understand. But it's possible that even when the water evaporates, it could be causing a short. I'm going to have to try spraying some electronics cleaner in there to see if it does anything. My main reason for not doing it is laziness though. Haha. 

Unfortunately I found that water had soaked an 8TB HDD I had in the system as well. I only noticed it after using the PC for a few hours and trying to access the drive and seeing it's not there. There was water all over the board as well as the ports. So I may have lost that data. I'll see how it does after some cleaning. Otherwise may have to try to find an identical drive to swap their boards since the platter is fine. It's my own fault for delaying expansion of my NAS and just putting everything on there. Sitting at 60TB but haven't wanted to upgrade yet because I was waiting for next gen CPUs that had both good standard performance, as well as media encoding since I also use it as a DVR with IPTV.


----------



## vf-

Shawnb99 said:


> Not a fan of how it won’t go under 2k rpm, temp Sensor is nice, controller is too big. Flow meter on it is a gimmick
> Likely will be selling them when I do my next tear down. Also disappointed with only 1.3GPM from 6 at max, even with my massive loop.


Apparently you've to calibrate the flow meter on the Aqua Computer D5 Next. Says to block off the flow ether pinching soft tubing or a stop valve.

I did see that issue on Youtube about the minimum of 2K rpm but that thing is silent even at full speed let alone 2K.


----------



## Section31

vf- said:


> Apparently you've to calibrate the flow meter on the Aqua Computer D5 Next. Says to block off the flow ether pinching soft tubing or a stop valve.
> 
> I did see that issue on Youtube about the minimum of 2K rpm but that thing is silent even at full speed let alone 2K.


Virtual flow meter was made irrelevant by high flow next (that has gimmick features too). Me and Shawnb99 want higher pressure d5’s like koolance ones.


----------



## dwolvin

And rinse with isopropyl if you can...


----------



## Stinkypotts

Quick question- I’ve had the FTW3 Optimus GPU block for a while now and I just noticed how dirty the fins on the cold plate have gotten. Any way to remove the cold plate without damaging the block? If so, can the original gasket be reused?


----------



## Sir Beregond

Stinkypotts said:


> Quick question- I’ve had the FTW3 Optimus GPU block for a while now and I just noticed how dirty the fins on the cold plate have gotten. Any way to remove the cold plate without damaging the block? If so, can the original gasket be reused?


Just an o-ring, don't see any reason why you couldn't reuse it unless you broke it or something. Blocks are built to be able to take apart. You have to clean things from time to time after all.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


----------



## Stinkypotts

Sir Beregond said:


> Just an o-ring, don't see any reason why you couldn't reuse it unless you broke it or something. Blocks are built to be able to take apart. You have to clean things from time to time after all.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk



True, I agree. Guess I’m just bugging out about breaking down everything.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Stinkypotts said:


> True, I agree. Guess I’m just bugging out about breaking down everything.


I get it. I just had to tear down a new build I just finished putting together from a bad batch of Mod Water coolant to clean everything and run a Blitz part 2 through it.

MMM did call me and make it right when I emailed. Guess they had a problem with additive packs when Mayhems had the ownership switchover. They are sending me new bottles.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


----------



## LiquidHaus

I was able to get my new rig finished last week. Very much enjoying the new look. Yuel Beast chassis' are awesome, and I just can't go back to anything traditional now. Absolute premium stuff, and I think it's one of the only choices that is at the same caliber as the other hardware we tend to use in here.










I gotta get some screenshots of performance next week, since the 12900KS still hasn't hit higher than that 71c high that ended up being from only the external 480mm lol. The highs I'm seeing now after photo and video editing has been 66-68c. Nice to not see outrageous temp spikes every now and then, like I would with my 5950X. I had a much harder time keeping temps in check with that CPU than with the 12900KS.


I was also lucky enough to get most of this new rig sponsored, and so I had the chance to get a photo of my old Atlas II build next to the new Atlas II build. Though I did have to swap GPUs around. The old rig is using a placeholder Strix GTX 1060 with a 1080Ti block on it, just to keep the original loop intact. Other than that, it's exactly like it was.


----------



## Cidious

Hey guys. I was following this thread when the first blocks released and had doubts about the channels being so narrow that they might clog up fairly quickly and restrict the loop too much. Do you guys have any long term feedback?


----------



## Biggu

Cidious said:


> Hey guys. I was following this thread when the first blocks released and had doubts about the channels being so narrow that they might clog up fairly quickly and restrict the loop too much. Do you guys have any long term feedback?


No issues here.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Cidious said:


> Hey guys. I was following this thread when the first blocks released and had doubts about the channels being so narrow that they might clog up fairly quickly and restrict the loop too much. Do you guys have any long term feedback?


Why would they clog up unless you either did not properly clean/prep the loop, or did not adequately perform maintenance?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Sir Beregond said:


> Why would they clog up unless you either did not properly clean/prep the loop, or did not adequately perform maintenance?


I think his concern is that with how tightly packed and close together the fins are, that it'd be easier for anything, such as debris or plasticizer, to get stuck in there or clog them up. Not as much of an issue for those of you who do cleaning and new liquid every 6 months. But I myself do it every 3-5 years because laziness exists. Haha.

As for their blocks, the Optimus Signature CPU block I've been running in the same loop/liquid for 13 months now hasn't had any reduction in performance. And the Optimus Signature GPU block I have been running for 7 months now, where the fins are visible through the acrylic, shows no signs of any discoloration or gunk accumulation. This is with ZMT tubing so no plasticizer leeching and such. I've seen no issues, in my setup, with their design.


----------



## vf-

HyperMatrix said:


> I think his concern is that with how tightly packed and close together the fins are, that it'd be easier for anything, such as debris or plasticizer, to get stuck in there or clog them up. *Not as much of an issue for those of you who do cleaning and new liquid every 6 months. But I myself do it every 3-5 years because laziness exists. Haha.*
> 
> As for their blocks, the Optimus Signature CPU block I've been running in the same loop/liquid for 13 months now hasn't had any reduction in performance. And the Optimus Signature GPU block I have been running for 7 months now, where the fins are visible through the acrylic, shows no signs of any discoloration or gunk accumulation. This is with ZMT tubing so no plasticizer leeching and such. I've seen no issues, in my setup, with their design.


2 weeks downtime for a thorough clean once every 6 months isn't all that hard and time consuming. If it comes to that is. 

It's draining the damn thing that I hate the most. The Lian Li 011 XL cut my fingers turning it upside down. There are some nasty sharp edges on that case, my fingers were bleeding like nasty paper cuts.


----------



## HyperMatrix

vf- said:


> 2 weeks downtime for a thorough clean once every 6 months isn't all that hard and time consuming. If it comes to that is.


If I had to do that, I'd sell my PC and stick to consoles. Lol. Way too much anxiety over having to do that. I have I think 13 liters of water in my system. Next time I have to mess around with it, I'm taking the whole thing apart, selling off the 4 internal radiators, and just adding a 3rd Mo-Ra3 420. And I'm hoping that won't be for at least another 3-4 years since I can add/remove components easily with Koolance quick disconnects when upgrading.


----------



## Sir Beregond

I definitely don't do every 6 months. More like once a year these days. If using soft tubing that can leech plasticizer, I usually replace those tubes every 2 years. YMMV 

I did run my last rig 18 months and regretted not topping up the additives periodically or changing the coolant at the 1 year mark.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


----------



## vf-

Sir Beregond said:


> I definitely don't do every 6 months. More like once a year these days. If using soft tubing that can leech plasticizer, I usually replace those tubes every 2 years. YMMV
> 
> I did run my last rig 18 months and regretted not topping up the additives periodically or changing the coolant at the 1 year mark.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


I suppose that is one of the great advantages of the Aqua Computer High Flow next. It'll give the water quality readings once it declines knowing when to change. Rather than guessing or that point of no return.


----------



## Sir Beregond

vf- said:


> I suppose that is one of the great advantages of the Aqua Computer High Flow next. It'll give the water quality readings once it declines knowing when to change. Rather than guessing or that point of no return.


I want to get one of these, but they have been unobtainium for months. Always out of stock. I actually wasn't aware it measured water quality? Is it measuring PH level or what?


----------



## Section31

Anyone see this 









Special Order AC Power Cable Commissions for PC PSU to Wall Outlet — VoxelMods


This new style of cable is not for keyboards, but rather for the power supply in your PC! It is designed to be the most extravagant and unnecessary cable possible, and it is NOT meant to be a low-profile option! Since these use high-end components, each part may need to be special ordered from seve




www.voxelmods.com


----------



## bearsdidit

Section31 said:


> Anyone see this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Special Order AC Power Cable Commissions for PC PSU to Wall Outlet — VoxelMods
> 
> 
> This new style of cable is not for keyboards, but rather for the power supply in your PC! It is designed to be the most extravagant and unnecessary cable possible, and it is NOT meant to be a low-profile option! Since these use high-end components, each part may need to be special ordered from seve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.voxelmods.com


I’m all about burning money but I’m having issues seeing the benefit of this cable.


----------



## Keith Myers

Section31 said:


> Anyone see this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Special Order AC Power Cable Commissions for PC PSU to Wall Outlet — VoxelMods
> 
> 
> This new style of cable is not for keyboards, but rather for the power supply in your PC! It is designed to be the most extravagant and unnecessary cable possible, and it is NOT meant to be a low-profile option! Since these use high-end components, each part may need to be special ordered from seve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.voxelmods.com


Has nothing but bling going for it. Not even close to what hi-end audio power cables sell for.


----------



## dwolvin

Holy hell! I feel that's aimed at audiophiles, they will spend silly money on crystals and whatnot...


----------



## HyperMatrix

Section31 said:


> Anyone see this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Special Order AC Power Cable Commissions for PC PSU to Wall Outlet — VoxelMods
> 
> 
> This new style of cable is not for keyboards, but rather for the power supply in your PC! It is designed to be the most extravagant and unnecessary cable possible, and it is NOT meant to be a low-profile option! Since these use high-end components, each part may need to be special ordered from seve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.voxelmods.com


Looks like very basic cable with sleeving, and carbon fiber sticker and chrome accent added for some unknown reason. I couldn’t imagine wanting that big bulging bling thing on my PC regardless of the price. Seems to be a non-solution to a problem that never existed.


----------



## vf-

dwolvin said:


> Holy hell! I feel that's aimed at audiophiles, they will spend silly money on crystals and whatnot...


So true it's frightening.


----------



## vf-

Sir Beregond said:


> I want to get one of these, but they have been unobtainium for months. Always out of stock. I actually wasn't aware it measured water quality? Is it measuring PH level or what?


I never saw this post. It's measuring conductivity and apparently mainly works with Aqua Computer's DP Ultra coolant. They wont tell you how the coolant quality is calculated.


----------



## acoustic

That PSU cable is such horseshit LOL. It's just a normal 12g cable with sleeving. Why would you pay $130 for that lol


----------



## vf-

acoustic said:


> That PSU cable is such horseshit LOL. It's just a normal 12g cable with sleeving. Why would you pay $130 for that lol


The same reason they bought monster cables. Snake oil marketing.


----------



## bearsdidit

Keith Myers said:


> Has nothing but bling going for it. Not even close to what hi-end audio power cables sell for.


I’d like to order one for my monitor soon. Hope to get some additional FPS.


----------



## chibi

bearsdidit said:


> I’d like to order one for my monitor soon. Hope to get some additional FPS.


I think beefy power cable to monitor would increase your refresh rate. Would need a dedicated psu power port to upgrade your fps in this regard


----------



## bearsdidit

chibi said:


> I think beefy power cable to monitor would increase your refresh rate. Would need a dedicated psu power port to upgrade your fps in this regard


Damn Alienware and their proprietary connections!


----------



## chibi

I meant to type GPU nema power plug, lol.


----------



## Biggu

acoustic said:


> That PSU cable is such horseshit LOL. It's just a normal 12g cable with sleeving. Why would you pay $130 for that lol











JPS Labs Aluminata Reference AC Cable


Hand-Made in America.. The Aluminata AC Power Cable touts technology in function and design that other power cords cannot approach, and as always builds upon previous JPS designs. They begin with a huge but flexible 8 gauge high-purity JPS alloy conductor, one of the largest conductors known to...




abyss-headphones.com





I prefer this one =)


----------



## HyperMatrix

Biggu said:


> JPS Labs Aluminata Reference AC Cable
> 
> 
> Hand-Made in America.. The Aluminata AC Power Cable touts technology in function and design that other power cords cannot approach, and as always builds upon previous JPS designs. They begin with a huge but flexible 8 gauge high-purity JPS alloy conductor, one of the largest conductors known to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> abyss-headphones.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer this one =)


Jesus Christ...I don't know if I should be saddened by the fact that people who buy these things exist, or to be impressed by the fact that they must have so much money that paying $10k for a really ugly power cable is as easy for them as it is for me to buy a USB cable from the dollar store.


----------



## Biggu

HyperMatrix said:


> Jesus Christ...I don't know if I should be saddened by the fact that people who buy these things exist, or to be impressed by the fact that they must have so much money that paying $10k for a really ugly power cable is as easy for them as it is for me to buy a USB cable from the dollar store.


The sad thing is they have a more expensive power cable too 








JPS Labs Super Aluminata AC Cable


Our Finest AC Cable hand-made to order by our skilled craftsman encompasses everything JPS Labs preaches in high performance AC cable design. Custom made high purity cooper alloy conductors wrapped in a unique flexible Kapton jacket allows for the subtle details beyond the ability of most high...




abyss-headphones.com





Also they have a USB A to B .75 meter for $1k... 

Now I have a pair of Abyss headphones and they are absolutely one of the best pair of headphones Ive heard and the cable that came with them is really nice but I have a really hard time even conceptualizing those JPS labs cables. I mean they do sell them and there are people that swear they make a difference but IMO I doubt you would notice heads up a difference.


----------



## dwolvin

A fool and their money...


----------



## Pk1

HyperMatrix said:


> Finally finished setting up both Mo-Ra3 units. Doing some testing, and it seems even with around 600W GPU load, it's able to keep at about 1.2C above ambient room temperature. This is after a 1 hour run:
> 
> View attachment 2563010
> 
> 
> In the sensors section on the bottom right, the 2 Air Intake ones are standard 2 wire temperature sensors placed on the grill by the intake of the rads. I have one on each rad to get a better average temperature. The gauges are Mo-Ra3 #1 In, Out, Mo-Ra3 #2 In, Out, and the last one is a from a flow sensor stuck right on top of the GPU, showing the temperature of water as it exits the GPU. The 4th gauge, which is the Mo-Ra3 #2 Outlet goes directly into the GPU. So we can see the water temperature going into the GPU, and what it is coming out. Before the water makes its way from the 25.1C GPU outlet in the screenshot above to the 24.3C water inlet on the first Mo-Ra3, it's going through my existing 4x radiator setup and CPU. So that's why it's already dropped a bit there.
> 
> Good scientific info to have. Can see the exact performance of the Optimus block. I pushed the clocks even higher after I saw how stable the water/gpu temperatures were. Will how to see how stable that is in different games.
> View attachment 2563013
> 
> 
> This is with my case closed back up, and my 3000RPM fans on my internal rads brought down to 50%. Dust filters on all rads including the Mo-Ra3s. Fans on the Mo-Ra3 still at 100% RPM as they're quiet 1700rpm fans. Flow rate is currently 296 L/h or 1.3 GPM. Definitely impressed with their performance.
> 
> Unfortunately I did have a bit of an incident. I was trying to fill the Mo-Ra3 by hooking them up to the system, but leaving them off, and refilling my reservoirs as the water was draining from them. It worked fine for the first unit. But when I came to do the second one, I shut down the system, and I'm guessing the fact that they're placed so much higher than my PC, caused gravity to pull the water back down, overflowing my open reservoir, and pouring on my system. I'm guessing roughly half a liter total. I shut down the system and put my dyson in front of it on heat mode for a while after drying out what I could with paper towels. However, the D5 Next pump at the bottom of that reservoir seems to have been hit with water and is now constantly clicking. Not the pump itself, but the buttons on the unit which emit a click sound when pressed. It keeps clicking repeatedly and going through the menus. Not sure if it'll resolve as it dries out over the next few days, or if it'll need to be replaced.


Sick setup! I'm interested in just wall mounting a Mora3. I really like your usb adapter idea but where can I find 5ft+ molex extensions? Is it something I just have to make or can they be purchased at those lengths?


----------



## vf-

Biggu said:


> The sad thing is they have a more expensive power cable too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JPS Labs Super Aluminata AC Cable
> 
> 
> Our Finest AC Cable hand-made to order by our skilled craftsman encompasses everything JPS Labs preaches in high performance AC cable design. Custom made high purity cooper alloy conductors wrapped in a unique flexible Kapton jacket allows for the subtle details beyond the ability of most high...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> abyss-headphones.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also they have a USB A to B .75 meter for $1k...
> 
> Now I have a pair of Abyss headphones and they are absolutely one of the best pair of headphones Ive heard and the cable that came with them is really nice but I have a really hard time even conceptualizing those JPS labs cables. I mean they do sell them and there are people that swear they make a difference but IMO I doubt you would notice heads up a difference.


I remember all the rage for audio cables from AudioQuest. They too were 3 digit priced cables.

Have fun looking at these. 


https://www.audioquest.com/product/downloadpricebook/1




https://www.audioquest.com/product/downloadpricebook/7


----------



## HyperMatrix

Pk1 said:


> Sick setup! I'm interested in just wall mounting a Mora3. I really like your usb adapter idea but where can I find 5ft+ molex extensions? Is it something I just have to make or can they be purchased at those lengths?


Since I was only using the molex 12v as a trigger for the relay, I just ran 2 wires that I soldered/shrinked from a generic molex connector that I sacrificed directly into the relay. If I were just running one mo-ra3 and wanted to power it from the same cable without using a relay I’d run all 4 wires (since it turns out the Aquacomputer quadro requires both 5V and 12V). Just used standard 16 awg wire. So take an existing molex connector, cut it in half, and solder/connect in longer wires between the two ends. Doesn’t take more than a couple minutes.


----------



## HyperMatrix

vf- said:


> I remember all the rage for audio cables from AudioQuest. They too were 3 digit priced cables.
> 
> Have fun looking at these.
> 
> 
> https://www.audioquest.com/product/downloadpricebook/1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.audioquest.com/product/downloadpricebook/7












Please tell me I'm reading these prices wrong. Lol. And I thought I was stupid for paying $600 for my speaker wires...


----------



## D-EJ915

HyperMatrix said:


> View attachment 2564599
> 
> 
> Please tell me I'm reading these prices wrong. Lol. And I thought I was stupid for paying $600 for my speaker wires...


the real stupid thing is they have banana plugs in the pic which is the worst connection in the world lol


----------



## HyperMatrix

D-EJ915 said:


> the real stupid thing is they have banana plugs in the pic which is the worst connection in the world lol


If I may ask, why do you not like banana plugs? You just don't see the point in an easily swappable cable when it's not something that's going to get swapped out at all in most cases? Or are you saying you think there's a loss in audio quality?


----------



## D-EJ915

HyperMatrix said:


> If I may ask, why do you not like banana plugs? You just don't see the point in an easily swappable cable when it's not something that's going to get swapped out at all in most cases? Or are you saying you think there's a loss in audio quality?


No it's because they're just a worse connector that has moving parts and can and does cause issues sometimes. Spades are better if you can.

Apparently there's locking bananas to mitigate this issue so those are probably the easiest to use.

(I mainly remember people blowing up amps or speakers (or both) due to bad speaker connections lol)


----------



## Keith Myers

Locking bananas are pretty good actually. Overcomes the weak structural problem of standard bananas and gives a good and tight mechanical connection with very low losses.


D-EJ915 said:


> No it's because they're just a worse connector that has moving parts and can and does cause issues sometimes. Spades are better if you can.
> 
> Apparently there's locking bananas to mitigate this issue so those are probably the easiest to use.
> 
> (I mainly remember people blowing up amps or speakers (or both) due to bad speaker connections lol)


----------



## Shawnb99

I find it ironic so many look down and make fun of audiophiles for chasing every little gain they can get to better sound while some of us where will drop the same amount binning a CPU just for a better SP number or upgrade to every new thing just to benchmark and get your name shown off for a week until someone else beats you, but dropping a few k on speaker wires is somehow wrong.


----------



## Keith Myers

Shawnb99 said:


> I find it ironic so many look down and make fun of audiophiles for chasing every little gain they can get to better sound while some of us where will drop the same amount binning a CPU just for a better SP number or upgrade to every new thing just to benchmark and get your name shown off for a week until someone else beats you, but dropping a few k on speaker wires is somehow wrong.


It's all relative to your current obsession. I don't regret the $$$'s I've dropped on audiophile equipment. I'd say it still isn't close to what I have dropped on PC gear over the last 20 years.

I bought good, upper echelon equipment 10-15 years ago and it still holds its own to what is currently available. I've not felt any itch to acquire the latest stuff that I will admit is much cheaper for the same sonic specs and experience. Would be just trading sideways.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> I find it ironic so many look down and make fun of audiophiles for chasing every little gain they can get to better sound while some of us where will drop the same amount binning a CPU just for a better SP number or upgrade to every new thing just to benchmark and get your name shown off for a week until someone else beats you, but dropping a few k on speaker wires is somehow wrong.


I think the reason people, including myself, make fun of audiophiles is because they talk about audio like a Sommelier. And a lot of the things they claim to here are reminiscent of the wine taste testing where people rated the $80 bottle of wine as tasting better than the $8 bottle, not realizing they had swapped the labels/price tag. With an overclock we can at least see gains in a 100% reliable way. That extra 200MHz can net you an extra 4% FPS that you can actually see and use. The problem is with much of the ultra high end cables…you’d have a very hard time trying to tell when doing a listening test between it and a standard 10-12 AWG OFC cable. I’ve read things about potential tonal difference between stranded vs solid core wiring of different thickness due to the skin effect, but again none of that comes down to the quality of the cable which is just copper at the end of the day. You could replicate the same thing with cheap similarly set up high gauge oxygen free copper wiring. And again most importantly…in a blind sound test you wouldn’t be able to tell a difference. And if you say you can without being able to back it up, there’s your explanation for why people don’t like audiophiles.


----------



## vf-

HyperMatrix said:


> I think the reason people, including myself, make fun of audiophiles is because they talk about audio like a Sommelier. And a lot of the things they claim to here are reminiscent of the wine taste testing where people rated the $80 bottle of wine as tasting better than the $8 bottle, not realizing they had swapped the labels/price tag. With an overclock we can at least see gains in a 100% reliable way. That extra 200MHz can net you an extra 4% FPS that you can actually see and use. The problem is with much of the ultra high end cables…you’d have a very hard time trying to tell when doing a listening test between it and a standard 10-12 AWG OFC cable. I’ve read things about potential tonal difference between stranded vs solid core wiring of different thickness due to the skin effect, but again none of that comes down to the quality of the cable which is just copper at the end of the day. You could replicate the same thing with cheap similarly set up high gauge oxygen free copper wiring. And again most importantly…in a blind sound test you wouldn’t be able to tell a difference. And if you say you can without being able to back it up, there’s your explanation for why people don’t like audiophiles.


Exactly. They go on like the cables are some sort of unobtainium material giving new life to something that has never been created for justifying obscene triple, if not quadruple figues for a cable.

Passion is one thing, being exploited and ripped off is another playing on ignorance of the masses through marketing. Marketing is a powerful yet dangerous tool.


The biggest change in sound improvements comes from room calibration/correction and positioning. Not over the top expensive cables.


----------



## Shawnb99

HyperMatrix said:


> I think the reason people, including myself, make fun of audiophiles is because they talk about audio like a Sommelier. And a lot of the things they claim to here are reminiscent of the wine taste testing where people rated the $80 bottle of wine as tasting better than the $8 bottle, not realizing they had swapped the labels/price tag. With an overclock we can at least see gains in a 100% reliable way. That extra 200MHz can net you an extra 4% FPS that you can actually see and use. The problem is with much of the ultra high end cables…you’d have a very hard time trying to tell when doing a listening test between it and a standard 10-12 AWG OFC cable. I’ve read things about potential tonal difference between stranded vs solid core wiring of different thickness due to the skin effect, but again none of that comes down to the quality of the cable which is just copper at the end of the day. You could replicate the same thing with cheap similarly set up high gauge oxygen free copper wiring. And again most importantly…in a blind sound test you wouldn’t be able to tell a difference. And if you say you can without being able to back it up, there’s your explanation for why people don’t like audiophiles.


I don’t use copper cables. As for that 4% FPS again you claim to be able to notice, try that without a FPS counter and then see if you can blind test it as well. 
I call BS in being able to tell a 5 FPS gain without a counter to tell you.

People just like to hate on audiophiles more cause they don’t understand it, or can hear the difference, in the same way a layperson can’t tell the difference


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> I call BS in being able to tell a 5 FPS gain without a counter to tell you.


You're right. Unless we were dealing with specific cases like 65fps vs 70fps, I wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the two. But I have an actual measurement that shows an exact performance increase without any guessing involved. Does the audiophile community have any actual measurements in substantive audio quality improvements by using $5000 speaker wire? Everything I've seen myself has been theory crafting and subjective analysis. I've even seen scientific information about the supposed technical difference from an electrical standpoint which is then said to result in a difference in audio quality. But I've never seen them any actual graphs that show an actual difference in audio output quality between $50 decent quality 10-12 awg wire when compared to a similarly spec'd $5000 cable, and unless you go to edge cases where you compare a heavily shielded cable to an unshielded cable, and intentionally do your testing in an area with high electrical interference, I can't imagine you'd have much of a difference you'd be able to demonstrate.

But again if you have anything to share, I'd be very interested to look at it and learn something new. I tried researching this for days when I was deciding on what cables to get, and ended up with nothing outside of subjective commentary. So I settled on the Monolith ones which are a solid core surrounded by stranded wiring and plenty of insulation. But even that, from what I read, would have been no different than standard 10-12 awg cables and I selected it based on esthetics as it's a braided cable.


----------



## dwolvin

I forget the site, but I remember someone pulling the wine tasting trick on audiophiles with $10K speaker cable on one system and literal coat hanger wire on the second (same systems, obv.). The guesses were right about 50/50.


----------



## chibi

HyperMatrix said:


> View attachment 2564599
> 
> 
> Please tell me I'm reading these prices wrong. Lol. And I thought I was stupid for paying $600 for my speaker wires...


I have a set of 2.0 logitech speakers from my high school days still in use. Hit me up with a pair of them Dragon bi-wire combos!


----------



## Shawnb99

dwolvin said:


> I forget the site, but I remember someone pulling the wine tasting trick on audiophiles with $10K speaker cable on one system and literal coat hanger wire on the second (same systems, obv.). The guesses were right about 50/50.



No point in arguing with people who only look down on the hobby and refuse to even take the time to understand it. Not worth my time, effort or anger.


----------



## iamjanco

_Life used to be so much simpler when everyone had to more or less live somewhat like the Amish (before people took note of electron hole movement AND realized they were doing so). _

--B. Brawndo, 2024.


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> _Life used to be so much simpler when everyone had to more or less live somewhat like the Amish (before people took note of electron hole movement AND realized they were doing so). _
> 
> --B. Brawndo, 2024.


Ignorance is truly bliss. That or good drugs. God bless the Sackler family


----------



## Keith Myers

HyperMatrix said:


> I think the reason people, including myself, make fun of audiophiles is because they talk about audio like a Sommelier. And a lot of the things they claim to here are reminiscent of the wine taste testing where people rated the $80 bottle of wine as tasting better than the $8 bottle, not realizing they had swapped the labels/price tag. With an overclock we can at least see gains in a 100% reliable way. That extra 200MHz can net you an extra 4% FPS that you can actually see and use. The problem is with much of the ultra high end cables…you’d have a very hard time trying to tell when doing a listening test between it and a standard 10-12 AWG OFC cable. I’ve read things about potential tonal difference between stranded vs solid core wiring of different thickness due to the skin effect, but again none of that comes down to the quality of the cable which is just copper at the end of the day. You could replicate the same thing with cheap similarly set up high gauge oxygen free copper wiring. And again most importantly…in a blind sound test you wouldn’t be able to tell a difference. And if you say you can without being able to back it up, there’s your explanation for why people don’t like audiophiles.


Have you ever participated in a blind audio test before? A layperson cannot detect any changes in equipment because they don't know what to listen for. An experienced listener can detect the changes. That is the only difference. I have done blind tests before and get better than 65% correct guesses so not just random luck in detecting a change and what was changed.


----------



## Shawnb99

Keith Myers said:


> Have you ever participated in a blind audio test before? A layperson cannot detect any changes in equipment because they don't know what to listen for. An experienced listener can detect the changes. That is the only difference. I have done blind tests before and get better than 65% correct guesses so not just random luck in detecting a change and what was changed.


Even then the changes can be very subtle. Even then depends on what you're testing. I'm sure I could easily tell the difference between my setup and a pair of beats with an Iphone. I would hope anyone would, the only difference is I'm willing to pay for it, while they're not.


----------



## dwolvin

The only beats I tried were insanely overdriven low and made the few songs I tried sound terrible. I very much appreciate good quality, but there is only so much you can quantify before you get into personal preference and that's a rabbit hole that I agree with @Shawnb99 with. No point, it's like debating the 'best' flavor of ice cream.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Keith Myers said:


> Have you ever participated in a blind audio test before? A layperson cannot detect any changes in equipment because they don't know what to listen for. An experienced listener can detect the changes. That is the only difference. I have done blind tests before and get better than 65% correct guesses so not just random luck in detecting a change and what was changed.


Hi Keith. Are we just talking about cables here or comparing audiophile hardware (receivers/amps/speakers)? Because to be clear I'm not talking about higher quality equipment not having much of an effect. I've looked up charts and graphs comparing the output profile of different speakers and through different amplifiers. I'm simply debating the difference that $5000 speaker cables supposedly provide over a standard good quality $50 10-12 AWG OFC cable, and the fact that no such comparison graphs seem to exist and the benefits espoused are all theoretical and subjective with nothing to back them up.

Again if there's any literature on the matter that shows (not theorizes) a quantifiable difference in audio output between those types of cables, I'd be very interested in seeing it. I just haven't been able to find anything on it during my research. This is a genuine request. I'm not claiming to be an authority on the matter. I'm simply stating that while trying to learn about it, I wasn't able to find anything that I could use to make a definitive statement about the matter. I was only able to conclude the following based on the research I did:


Using high purity oxygen free copper is better (some use silver, but again...wasn't able to find anything that showed it was better...just that a lot of people didn't like it because to them it sounded overly bright which may or may not be true and which may or may not be desirable to you based on your listening preferences)
The wires needs to be of sufficient thickness (10-12 AWG probably the point where you won't see any additional gains at normal cable runs)
Potential difference in highs/lows based on the skin effect, and the type of wiring used (solid vs stranded vs mixed)

Outside of that, I couldn't find anything that wasn't entirely subjective. But as I mentioned, if you have anything you can reference that would allow me to expand my knowledge on the matter, which isn't based on subjective anecdotal evidence, I'd greatly appreciate it.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> No point in arguing with people who only look down on the hobby and refuse to even take the time to understand it. Not worth my time, effort or anger.


I don't look down on the hobby. I've spent more on my computer's audio system than on my computer itself. Don't mistake people's dislike of "audiophiles" with people's dislike of good quality audio. The label and often snooty behavior that seems to be associated with that title is what irks people. Not the hobby itself. Who doesn't like good quality sound, other than my mother?


----------



## Keith Myers

HyperMatrix said:


> Hi Keith. Are we just talking about cables here or comparing audiophile hardware (receivers/amps/speakers)? Because to be clear I'm not talking about higher quality equipment not having much of an effect. I've looked up charts and graphs comparing the output profile of different speakers and through different amplifiers. I'm simply debating the difference that $5000 speaker cables supposedly provide over a standard good quality $50 10-12 AWG OFC cable, and the fact that no such comparison graphs seem to exist and the benefits espoused are all theoretical and subjective with nothing to back them up.
> 
> Again if there's any literature on the matter that shows (not theorizes) a quantifiable difference in audio output between those types of cables, I'd be very interested in seeing it. I just haven't been able to find anything on it during my research. This is a genuine request. I'm not claiming to be an authority on the matter. I'm simply stating that while trying to learn about it, I wasn't able to find anything that I could use to make a definitive statement about the matter. I was only able to conclude the following based on the research I did:
> 
> 
> Using high purity oxygen free copper is better (some use silver, but again...wasn't able to find anything that showed it made a difference)
> The wires needs to be of sufficient thickness (10-12 AWG probably the point where you won't see any additional gains at normal cable runs)
> Potential difference in highs/lows based on the skin effect, and the type of wiring used (solid vs stranded vs mixed)
> 
> Outside of that, I couldn't find anything that wasn't entirely subjective. But as I mentioned, if you have anything you can reference that would allow me to expand my knowledge on the matter, which isn't based on subjective anecdotal evidence, I'd greatly appreciate it.


I've blind tested everything. Speakers, amps, pre-amps, processors, DAC's, phono cartridges, media format, cables, room sound modifications etc.

When it comes to a person's perception . . . . everything is subjective.

Any piece of electronics can be tested. You just need the test equipment which produces quantifiable results. As far as cables go, you can test reactance, resistance, capacitance, signal propagation speed, frequency response, signal-noise ratio etc. That can be correlatively coupled with perceptive listening tests. Cables can change perception of low level detail and most commonly in the soundstage volume, depth, height and width. I'm sure this has been covered before in the audiophile press. A layperson would not be aware of those characteristics in the first place and would not be able to elucidate what their perception tells them something has changed. They don't have the vocabulary.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Keith Myers said:


> A layperson would not be aware of those characteristics in the first place and would not be able to elucidate what their perception tells them something has changed. They don't have the vocabulary.


Right but those things are graphed and compared when testing different amplifiers and speakers to show the actual difference in audio output. Why is no such graph available to show the difference between $50 and $5000 cables? Simply saying "You won't get it because we use fancy words that normies wouldn't understand" is the literal reason people have an issue with audiophiles. All I asked for was a reference to a test that was done on the matter. I assumed as someone who is passionate about this, and believes there is a difference in a $50 vs $5000 cable, that you'd have some source you could forward me to? 

I think everyone will agree that speakers, amps, processors, DACs, media formats, and room setup make a difference in audio output quality. These differences can be measured and graphed. And whether each of those difference is considered a benefit or sufficiently noticeable to you to make it worth the additional investment is subjective, true. But I'm being told that there's a difference between 12 gauge ofc wire vs silver wire of the same gauge, even though silver only has 5% less resistance than copper, which can be overcome by simply using a higher gauge copper cable if required, with data to support the statement. I'm simply looking for something that shows the audio output looking different. If I were selling 6 foot of cable for $5000, and I knew my product did indeed make a difference, I'd have charts and graphs of the actual difference up. But all you see advertised are theoretical difference without any evidence that the final sound output is changed in any way at all. Not just a "enough of a change to be worth it" metric but rather any change at all.


----------



## Keith Myers

HyperMatrix said:


> Right but those things are graphed and compared when testing different amplifiers and speakers to show the actual difference in audio output. Why is no such graph available to show the difference between $50 and $5000 cables? Simply saying "You won't get it because we use fancy words that normies wouldn't understand" is the literal reason people have an issue with audiophiles. All I asked for was a reference to a test that was done on the matter. I assumed as someone who is passionate about this, and believes there is a difference in a $50 vs $5000 cable, that you'd have some source you could forward me to?
> 
> I think everyone will agree that speakers, amps, processors, DACs, media formats, and room setup make a difference in audio output quality. These differences can be measured and graphed. And whether each of those difference is considered a benefit or sufficiently noticeable to you to make it worth the additional investment is subjective, true. But I'm being told that there's a difference between 12 gauge ofc wire vs silver wire of the same gauge, even though silver only has 5% less resistance than copper, which can be overcome by simply using a higher gauge copper cable if required, with data to support the statement. I'm simply looking for something that shows the audio output looking different. If I were selling 6 foot of cable for $5000, and I knew my product did indeed make a difference, I'd have charts and graphs of the actual difference up. But all you see advertised are theoretical difference without any evidence that the final sound output is changed in any way at all. Not just a "enough of a change to be worth it" metric but rather any change at all.


Well I just did a simple Google for "any quantifiable test differences between standard speaker cables and audiophile cables?" and came up with many hits.

Do Speaker Cables Make a Significant Difference?
Using Measurements to Clear up the Cable Controversy
The “Sound” of Speaker Cables: an Analysis

Play the white noise and music video when comparing short circuit, resistor load, narrow spaced conductor and wide spaced conductors with the impedance changes those incur.
Pretty telling I think.

Along with a page to your coathanger-speaker cable myth website that also provides frequency response graphs. You DO see differences that are pretty pronounced in the graphs between the coathanger cable and the expensive cable.

Cable myths: reviving the coathanger test


----------



## HyperMatrix

Keith Myers said:


> Well I just did a simple Google for "any quantifiable test differences between standard speaker cables and audiophile cables?" and came up with many hits.
> 
> Do Speaker Cables Make a Significant Difference?
> Using Measurements to Clear up the Cable Controversy
> The “Sound” of Speaker Cables: an Analysis
> Along with a page to your coathanger-speaker cable myth website that also provides frequency response graphs. You DO see differences that are pretty pronounced in the graphs between the coathanger cable and the expensive cable.
> 
> Cable myths: reviving the coathanger test


I wasn't the one who wrote about the coat hanger test. But from the links you provided, I don't see anything that goes against what I said?

*Link 1: "Do speaker cables make a significant difference?"*








*Link 2: "Using Measurements to clear up the cable controversy"*

It shows the QED and AudioQuest cables having the exact same performance as generic 12 gauge cable, and in some cases the "higher end" cables providing less bass (although again at very minor levels)
It shows a 1.25" thick custom cable with a minor 0.2dB improvement and only at a certain frequency range
In their conclusion, they state that the improvement with the Shinyuta and the prototype cable, was due to the lower resistance. Something that as I stated in my earlier post, could be done by simply using thicker gauge copper cable.










*Link 3: "The Sound of speaker cables: an analysis"*
- Definitely a bit above my head but from what I'm reading, it seems to be speaking about the impact resistance/impedance can have on speaker sound (which no one is denying), but adds nothing about what difference there would be between a standard good quality $50 speaker cable and a $5000 cable of similar gauge/impedance. Just talks about proper insulation, cable length, and distance between the wires affecting resistance.


----------



## Keith Myers

Did you play the white-noise/music video showing the audible differences between well matched and unmatched speaker cables?
Those links give quite a few test examples of typical $50 cables compared to more expensive cables. You are more likely to get better sounding cables from the higher cost cables because of attention to construction detail and materials leading to better matched cables than your $50 cables. Not saying you couldn't get matched cables from $50 worth of wires and connectors, just not likely.

Wire gauge and length is a big factor in determining impedance. The other is insulation and geometry. All those determine electrical characteristics which have a direct correlation to sound quality with your equipmentt.
If you have a large room with widely spaced speakers you will need longer lengths of wires to connect them to the amp or amps. That single factor will increase the cost of the cables.

If you work with a quality high-end audio shop, most will let you demo several choices for cables with YOUR equipment to find out which is the better match. Their audio rooms showcase the best of the featured equipment in the room. But the same cables used in the room may not be the best match for your equipment or soundroom. Use their knowledge and experience to focus on best candidates for your equipement.

There are plenty of examples of DIY cables that can provide great results and don't cost a fortune in materials also. Just do a Google search. I've dabbled in building cables myself since I enjoy the hobby and tinkering. Scratches the same itch as PC building. Still have to source the costly materials and connectors. You just supply the labor. You might be able to duplicate the $5000 cables for $300.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

I happened to look at my FTW3 block recently - been running about 8 months now - and noticed what looks like a buildup of some kind of brown stuff inside. I'm with distilled water and Primochill's Liquid Utopia and cooling-wise things seem normal but what is this? Either way, I'm planning to dismantle things at some point soon - how should I clean it?


----------



## dwolvin

I'd say when your flow drops or your temps go up. Or when it looks ugly enough you can't even. Open it up and hit it with warm water and a toothbrush before anything harsher than weak vinegar (I go 1/4 white vinegar and 3/4 water). Good luck!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Keith Myers said:


> Wire gauge and length is a big factor in determining impedance. The other is insulation and geometry. All those determine electrical characteristics which have a direct correlation to sound quality with your equipmentt.
> If you have a large room with widely spaced speakers you will need longer lengths of wires to connect them to the amp or amps. That single factor will increase the cost of the cables.
> 
> If you work with a quality high-end audio shop, most will let you demo several choices for cables with YOUR equipment to find out which is the better match. Their audio rooms showcase the best of the featured equipment in the room. But the same cables used in the room may not be the best match for your equipment or soundroom. Use their knowledge and experience to focus on best candidates for your equipement.


Outside of 50ft+ cable runs, it would appear that the difference between $50 and $5000 cables are minimal. I'm not sure I understand the definition of "matched" cables. I'm not challenging you on this and am simply inquiring for further education as I am seemingly unable to properly grasp the concept. Are we saying that a cable can be over-spec'd where a very high quality cable with low impedance and good shielding can result in a loss of audio quality on some systems? Or just that based on the quality and sensitivity of your components, there will be more sensitivity to the quality of cable used and you'd see more of a benefit from higher quality cable primarily in those systems? Or are we talking about the potential difference in sound stage based on the cable used? And in such a scenario, given how small the difference is between "good" cable and "ultra super high end" cable that costs 100x or more, how important would that be when you're tuning the output with Dirac Live or Audyssey? Since the difference observed between the cables in the first 2 links you sent wasn't uniform across the board, it meant that some areas were elevated (again at a very minor 0.2 dB with 8 Ohm speakers or 0.4 dB with 4 Ohm speakers). But those would need to be brought back in line anyway and after tuning with Dirac Live/Audyssey, would that still matter at all?

Appreciate your time and effort in responding, btw.


----------



## Keith Myers

HyperMatrix said:


> Outside of 50ft+ cable runs, it would appear that the difference between $50 and $5000 cables are minimal. I'm not sure I understand the definition of "matched" cables. I'm not challenging you on this and am simply inquiring for further education as I am seemingly unable to properly grasp the concept. Are we saying that a cable can be over-spec'd where a very high quality cable with low impedance and good shielding can result in a loss of audio quality on some systems? Or just that based on the quality and sensitivity of your components, there will be more sensitivity to the quality of cable used and you'd see more of a benefit from higher quality cable primarily in those systems? Or are we talking about the potential difference in sound stage based on the cable used? And in such a scenario, given how small the difference is between "good" cable and "ultra super high end" cable that costs 100x or more, how important would that be when you're tuning the output with Dirac Live or Audyssey? Since the difference observed between the cables in the first 2 links you sent wasn't uniform across the board, it meant that some areas were elevated (again at a very minor 0.2 dB with 8 Ohm speakers or 0.4 dB with 4 Ohm speakers). But those would need to be brought back in line anyway and after tuning with Dirac Live/Audyssey, would that still matter at all?
> 
> Appreciate your time and effort in responding, btw.


Matched in this case means matched impedances throughout the transmission chain. From output stages, through the cables to the speakers. You get maximum power delivery with no phase shifts across the audio frequency spectrum and no reflected power. It is more important for speaker cables to be better matched for low impedance speakers. Standard 8 ohm speakers are a doddle to drive, but 4 ohm and 2 ohm loads are more difficult. I am simplifying this topic as the impedance of a system varies across the frequency spectrum.

The better the quality of the components in your signal chain, the more important it is to protect the signal quality in transmission. Better quality components reproduce and expose more of the original recorded signal and you don't want to lose or mask the audio details during transmission to the final transducer.

All I am trying to get across is it is very silly to couple a boombox or a $200 bigbox store shelf audio system with $5000 interconnects or speaker cables. The signal reproduction is limited at the source in the first place and you would not do anything but glaringly expose the limitations of the system. It would be best to mask the flaws of the system reproduction with cheaper interconnects in fact.

But if you have a very high-end audio system capable of reproducing all of the live recorded signal, at least do no more harm to the signal and choose interconnects that get as much of the original signal to the final transducers with least amount of alteration. It is up to you to decide how much you want to spend within your budget and get the "best bang for your buck" as they say.


----------



## Sir Beregond

vf- said:


> I never saw this post. It's measuring conductivity and apparently mainly works with Aqua Computer's DP Ultra coolant. They wont tell you how the coolant quality is calculated.


On another note, was able to put in an order at MMM for an Octo.


----------



## KedarWolf

On my Strix block, I replaced the silver Torx screws with black Torx screws from aliexpress.









0.67US $ 36% OFF|10pcs/lot Flat Countersunk Screw Six Lobe Bolt Machine screw M2 M2.5 M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 Black 304 Stainless Steel Torx Head|Screws| - AliExpress


Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com




www.aliexpress.com





M2.5, 12mm x10pcs

M2.5, 16mm x10pcs

Those screws work with the FTW3 block, but the screws needed vary for the Kingpin block.


----------



## criskoe

KedarWolf said:


> On my Strix block, I replaced the silver Torx screws with black Torx screws from aliexpress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 0.67US $ 36% OFF|10pcs/lot Flat Countersunk Screw Six Lobe Bolt Machine screw M2 M2.5 M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 Black 304 Stainless Steel Torx Head|Screws| - AliExpress
> 
> 
> Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.aliexpress.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> M2.5, 12mm x10pcs
> 
> M2.5, 16mm x10pcs
> 
> Those screws work with the FTW3 block, but the screws needed vary for the Kingpin block.


Which screws are you referring to? The assembly screws? Or the ones actually holding the acrylic to the block? Cause those are flat mounted and these are countersunk..


----------



## KedarWolf

criskoe said:


> Which screws are you referring to? The assembly screws? Or the ones actually holding the acrylic to the block? Cause those are flat mounted and these are countersunk..


These screws.

Edit: But I'm contacting Optimus support through their website. I want black screws on the acrylic too. Need to get the sizes.


----------



## criskoe

KedarWolf said:


> These screws.
> 
> Edit: But I'm contacting Optimus support through their website. I want black screws on the acrylic too. Need to get the sizes.
> 
> View attachment 2564795


Ah ok yeah I see. I just painted the heads on my stock installation ones black. Worked great. 

Yeah I’m not sure what the acrylic ones are. But do post it up if you find some.


----------



## chibi

Word of caution though is that the screws are default to be stainless steel if I remember correctly. I also looked into changing out the screws to black ones but the ones I found felt it had some kind of matte coating. I wasn't sure it would work well with the block, water and potential for corrosion so I scrapped that idea in the end.


----------



## iamjanco

chibi said:


> Word of caution though is that the screws are default to be stainless steel if I remember correctly. I also looked into changing out the screws to black ones but the ones I found felt it had some kind of matte coating. I wasn't sure it would work well with the block, water and potential for corrosion so I scrapped that idea in the end.


If the screws are properly tightened AND the gaskets do the job they're supposed to, aren't the screws isolated from any coolant contact?


----------



## chibi

iamjanco said:


> If the screws are properly tightened AND the gaskets do the job they're supposed to, aren't the screws isolated from any coolant contact?


In a perfect world, that should be the case. But you know, PEBKAC


----------



## KedarWolf

chibi said:


> In a perfect world, that should be the case. But you know, PEBKAC


On the acrylic, I will remove one screw at a time and replace it.

And I could tell when I got them, that the screws from that supplier I linked were of excellent quality. Zero issues with them. 

Edit: You're going to want to follow the Optimus instructions for sure and turn them counterclockwise until they click, then screw them in, to reduce the risk of stripping any threads.

I actually missed that putting the original and new screws in, but think I got lucky.


----------



## iamjanco

chibi said:


> In a perfect world, that should be the case. But you know, PEBKAC


Yeah, I get you. Especially between that and service that some might say is slightly better than a poke in the eye with a burnt stick.

But I'm not judging... 💨


----------



## ThatGuyJD

Hey peoples, lots of pages to this thread and have read through some of it but figured it would be better just asking.

I picked up an Optimus Signature V2 second hand today. Came with the hardware in the pictures although I'm planning on using it on my 12th gen Asus board so it'll fit with the LGA socket holes but is there anything specific I should be looking out for with regards to 12th gen and the block or anything else in general?


----------



## bscool

ThatGuyJD said:


> Hey peoples, lots of pages to this thread and have read through some of it but figured it would be better just asking.
> 
> I picked up an Optimus Signature V2 second hand today. Came with the hardware in the pictures although I'm planning on using it on my 12th gen Asus board so it'll fit with the LGA socket holes but is there anything specific I should be looking out for with regards to 12th gen and the block or anything else in general?
> View attachment 2565625
> View attachment 2565627


LGA 12000 backplate will work but it is not ideal. For one thing holes are not in the correct locations so backplate doesnt lay flat on back of MB like it would with correct lag1700 backplate. Also will have to add washer or something to increase mounting pressure as lga1700 is 1mm approx lower than lga1200.

Edit added pics of HK backplates from 1200 and 1700 as an example to show difference.






HEATKILLER IV Backplate INTEL 1700, 9,95 €


Backplate zur idealen Lastverteilung für Intel Mainstream Prozessoren. Maximiert die optimale Leistung des Heatkiller IV Wasserkühlers.




shop.watercool.de










Watercool HEATKILLER IV Backplate für Intel 11XX Prozessoren, 9,95 €


Backplate zur idealen Lastverteilung für Intel Mainstream Prozessoren. Maximiert die optimale Leistung des Heatkiller IV Wasserkühlers.




shop.watercool.de


----------



## vf-

Sir Beregond said:


> On another note, was able to put in an order at MMM for an Octo.


I came across this the other day researching some stuff which I thought was scary. 😂



> _There is such a HUGE apparent disparity here.
> EK claims: "Electrical Conductivity (mS/cm): 1,04 ±10%".
> Which I believe converts to 1.040,000 µS/cm ±10%.
> Yet the high flow next reads 73,000 µS/cm.
> 
> Is my math fail?_





> _Ask EK, 1000µS is the same water quality as a river or a lake. this is far away from any that you can use in a water cooling loop.
> The high flow read valid conductivity data up to 200µS. For everything above this value, the sensor read a value from 200 µS ... X.
> 
> The conductividy from normal tap water (in Germany) is 250 µS ... 800 µS.
> But everyone can decide for himself what coolant he puts into his loop._





> _At this point we have to say that we do not know the ingredients used in EK coolants.
> 
> If EK makes this statement, then the coolant behaves contrary to most other coolants on the market due to the assumed conductivity of the inhibitor.
> Aqua Computer coolants are designed to minimize conductivity. We do this to minimize current flow in the event of a leak or splash. This is the best way to protect our customers hardware. Highly conductive coolants would lead to large currents and thus quickly damage the hardware in such cases._







__





high flow NEXT - The next generation of flow sensors - English forum - Aqua Computer Forum






forum.aquacomputer.de





It's no wonder I got bloomin algae within 3 months.


----------



## ChrisLB

Just an update on my Optimus Kingpin 3090 block experience. I had an issue with my CPU temps being abnormally high the first time after I did a longer 3D render(using the GPUs). My loop order is two radiators, then the res, then the D5 pump, then another radiator, the pair of KP 3090 GPUs then the CPU then back to the two radiators.

After some troubleshooting, I disconnected the quick disconnect fittings and removed my Optimus CPU block, then took it apart. I found a bunch of small black particles in the micro fins. I thought it was unusual since I didn't have that issue before. I cleaned out the micro fins. A week later, I did another 3D render and afterwards my CPU temps were abnormally high. I decided to check the CPU block again and there were a bunch of small black particles in the micro fins. I cleaned out the micro fins again. I was really confused because I never had this issue before and I'm using clear coolant. The only change to the system since the last time I did a 3D render was adding the kingpins with the Optimus blocks and black cerakote finish.

To troubleshoot, I drained my loop and filled it with distilled water, ran it, drained it again, filled it again with distilled water. I took a pair of 560mm rads for another system I'm in the process of building and a separate D5 pump/res then hooked them up to the 3090 Kingpins. I had my CPU on the loop in my case and separate from the 3090 KPs . When I did a 3D render that lasted a few hours, I didn't have any issues with high CPU temperatures afterwards. Then I hooked the 3090 Kingpins back up to the loop in my case and ran the same 3D render. My CPU temperatures were high again and when I took out the CPU block, there were small black particles in the micro fins. I cleaned out the micro fins yet again. 

My GPU temps hit 38-40C during long 3D renders and my coolant temps are in the low to mid 30s with just using the three 360mm radiators in my case. It seems that maybe the cerakote finish is coming off one or both of my GPUs and getting stuck in the CPU block when I run the GPUs at 100% load for several hours at a time. When I don't have the Kingpins with the Optimus KP 3090 blocks in the same loop as my CPU I don't have issues with those little black particles getting stuck in my CPU block micro fins after a long 3D render. I'm a bit confused through because the micro fins for the Optimus GPU blocks are rather small also. Yet they look clean and my GPU temps are fine. Maybe the micro fins on the CPU block are a little smaller than on the GPU block?


----------



## acoustic

What tubing are you using?


----------



## anr11

ChrisLB said:


> Just an update on my Optimus Kingpin 3090 block experience. I had an issue with my CPU temps being abnormally high the first time after I did a longer 3D render(using the GPUs). My loop order is two radiators, then the res, then the D5 pump, then another radiator, the pair of KP 3090 GPUs then the CPU then back to the two radiators.
> 
> After some troubleshooting, I disconnected the quick disconnect fittings and removed my Optimus CPU block, then took it apart. I found a bunch of small black particles in the micro fins. I thought it was unusual since I didn't have that issue before. I cleaned out the micro fins. A week later, I did another 3D render and afterwards my CPU temps were abnormally high. I decided to check the CPU block again and there were a bunch of small black particles in the micro fins. I cleaned out the micro fins again. I was really confused because I never had this issue before and I'm using clear coolant. The only change to the system since the last time I did a 3D render was adding the kingpins with the Optimus blocks and black cerakote finish.
> 
> To troubleshoot, I drained my loop and filled it with distilled water, ran it, drained it again, filled it again with distilled water. I took a pair of 560mm rads for another system I'm in the process of building and a separate D5 pump/res then hooked them up to the 3090 Kingpins. I had my CPU on the loop in my case and separate from the 3090 KPs . When I did a 3D render that lasted a few hours, I didn't have any issues with high CPU temperatures afterwards. Then I hooked the 3090 Kingpins back up to the loop in my case and ran the same 3D render. My CPU temperatures were high again and when I took out the CPU block, there were small black particles in the micro fins. I cleaned out the micro fins yet again.
> 
> My GPU temps hit 38-40C during long 3D renders and my coolant temps are in the low to mid 30s with just using the three 360mm radiators in my case. It seems that maybe the cerakote finish is coming off one or both of my GPUs and getting stuck in the CPU block when I run the GPUs at 100% load for several hours at a time. When I don't have the Kingpins with the Optimus KP 3090 blocks in the same loop as my CPU I don't have issues with those little black particles getting stuck in my CPU block micro fins after a long 3D render. I'm a bit confused through because the micro fins for the Optimus GPU blocks are rather small also. Yet they look clean and my GPU temps are fine. Maybe the micro fins on the CPU block are a little smaller than on the GPU block?


What kind of tubing are you running?
What were your fluid temps before and after adding the 3090 to the CPU loop?


----------



## ChrisLB

acoustic said:


> What tubing are you using?


EK ZMT. Its not new out of the box ZMT. Its some tubing that I used with a previous EVGA Kingpin Hydro Copper GPU blocks in that same loop without issue. The ZMT is not depositing any fragments in the loop. If it was, then they would also be getting stuck in the GPU micro fins before going to the CPU. Based on the deposits placement in the loop is seems that the coating is coming off the backplate cooling for one of the Optimus Kingpin blocks, the block closest to the CPU in the loop. I only get fragments in the loop when the Optimus waterblocks are in the loop. The only change was the using Optimus blocks instead of the Kingpin Hydro Copper blocks. I used the same tubing with both GPU blocks. So if it was the tubing I would have had the issue previously.

After running the two Kingpins with the Optimus blocks in their own loop for a longer time with a pair of 560mm radiators, I'm now seeing small black particles in the GPU micro fins on the first GPU in loop order.



anr11 said:


> What were your fluid temps before and after adding the 3090 to the CPU loop?


My coolant temps stay in the mid to low 30's even with two kingpin 3090s and a overclocked 5950X with a raised power limit. There really wasn't a significant change in coolant temps when going from the KP Hydro Copper blocks to the Optimus blocks.


----------



## Section31

ChrisLB said:


> EK ZMT. Its not new out of the box ZMT. Its some tubing that I used with a previous EVGA Kingpin Hydro Copper GPU blocks in that same loop without issue. The ZMT is not depositing any fragments in the loop. If it was, then they would also be getting stuck in the GPU micro fins before going to the CPU. Based on the deposits placement in the loop is seems that the coating is coming off the backplate cooling for one of the Optimus Kingpin blocks, the block closest to the CPU in the loop. I only get fragments in the loop when the Optimus waterblocks are in the loop. The only change was the using Optimus blocks instead of the Kingpin Hydro Copper blocks. I used the same tubing with both GPU blocks. So if it was the tubing I would have had the issue previously.
> 
> After running the two Kingpins with the Optimus blocks in their own loop for a longer time with a pair of 560mm radiators, I'm now seeing small black particles in the GPU micro fins on the first GPU in loop order.
> 
> 
> 
> My coolant temps stay in the mid to low 30's even with two kingpin 3090s and a overclocked 5950X with a raised power limit. There really wasn't a significant change in coolant temps when going from the KP Hydro Copper blocks to the Optimus blocks.


As long as performance is not effected leave it alone. Optimus blocks and fittings just pickup particles in your loop from my experience


----------



## ChrisLB

Section31 said:


> As long as performance is not effected leave it alone. Optimus blocks and fittings just pickup particles in your loop from my experience


The issue is I have to take off my CPU block and take the CPU block apart to clean it on a regular basis to prevent it form heating after adding the Optimus GPU blocks. If I put the GPUs in a separate loop, the first GPU block picks up all the particles and I have to take that apart and clean it on a regular basis. I don't see how anyone would find that acceptable.


----------



## Shawnb99

ChrisLB said:


> The issue is I have to take off my CPU block and take the CPU block apart to clean it on a regular basis to prevent it form heating after adding the Optimus GPU blocks. If I put the GPUs in a separate loop, the first GPU block picks up all the particles and I have to take that apart and clean it on a regular basis. I don't see how anyone would find that acceptable.


If you have particles in your loop that require constant cleaning then something is wrong. Yes an Optimus block fins will pick up any derbies you have in your loop, At the same time you shouldn't have any debris in your loop and if you do then something is wrong. If it's plasticizer then you need new tubing, if it's other gunk then you need new water or coolant.

Having to take apart and clean your loop on a regular basis is in no way or form in any way acceptable, but this isn't something your should blame Optimus for, it's your loop that's the issue not the block being too well designed that it picks up the gunk in your loop. It's implied that your loop is gunk free.


----------



## dwolvin

I'm leaning toward the ZMT. I like the tube but I had to rinse the hell out of it (EK version).


----------



## Shawnb99

dwolvin said:


> I'm leaning toward the ZMT. I like the tube but I had to rinse the hell out of it (EK version).


I know all about that. Last time I used it, damn stuff left my hands so dirty they stained the silicone part on the bottom of my D5 Next. Had to bleach that thing to get it clean.


----------



## Avacado

dwolvin said:


> I'm leaning toward the ZMT. I like the tube but I had to rinse the hell out of it (EK version).


Why wouldn't you go Tygon if you are set on ZMT? Is it a cost or availability issue? Once you go Tygon black, you won't go back.


----------



## Shawnb99

Avacado said:


> Why wouldn't you go Tygon if you are set on ZMT? Is it a cost or availability issue?


At first it was a cost and availability issue. Once I dealt with the ZMT, the cost and availability issues didn't seem so big. Now it's the only tubing I'll use going forward.


----------



## ChrisLB

Shawnb99 said:


> If you have particles in your loop that require constant cleaning then something is wrong. Yes an Optimus block fins will pick up any derbies you have in your loop, At the same time you shouldn't have any debris in your loop and if you do then something is wrong. If it's plasticizer then you need new tubing, if it's other gunk then you need new water or coolant.
> 
> Having to take apart and clean your loop on a regular basis is in no way or form in any way acceptable, but this isn't something your should blame Optimus for, it's your loop that's the issue not the block being too well designed that it picks up the gunk in your loop. It's implied that your loop is gunk free.


I have a feeling that you read none of my previous messages before replying.


----------



## ChrisLB

dwolvin said:


> I'm leaning toward the ZMT. I like the tube but I had to rinse the hell out of it (EK version).


I took the Optimus blocks out of the loop and I don't get any more black particles.

I used the fittings and tubing that I was using with my EVGA Hydro Copper blocks without issue and put them on the Optimus blocks. Then the problem started shortly after that. If it was the tubing, I should have been having the same issue when I used the Hydro Copper blocks.


----------



## Shawnb99

ChrisLB said:


> I have a feeling that you read none of my previous messages before replying.


Nope I didn't 




ChrisLB said:


> I took the Optimus blocks out of the loop and I don't get any more black particles.
> 
> I used the fittings and tubing that I was using with my EVGA Hydro Copper blocks without issue and put them on the Optimus blocks. Then the problem started shortly after that. If it was the tubing, I should have been having the same issue when I used the Hydro Copper blocks.


Yeah it has to be the KPE block that's flaking then. Take it apart if you haven't and look for the nickel plating flaking off.


----------



## Section31

ChrisLB said:


> I took the Optimus blocks out of the loop and I don't get any more black particles.
> 
> I used the fittings and tubing that I was using with my EVGA Hydro Copper blocks without issue and put them on the Optimus blocks. Then the problem started shortly after that. If it was the tubing, I should have been having the same issue when I used the Hydro Copper blocks.


Again, its just something you probably have to live with. I know we have OCD on clean blocks. I have done same as you but now i just gave up on it. Performance isn't effected so let it be. Next time you upgrade look elsewhere for other brands.

Even heatkiller stuff after couple years picks up particles etc. Of course by then, you just replace the stuff.


----------



## criskoe

ChrisLB said:


> I took the Optimus blocks out of the loop and I don't get any more black particles.
> 
> I used the fittings and tubing that I was using with my EVGA Hydro Copper blocks without issue and put them on the Optimus blocks. Then the problem started shortly after that. If it was the tubing, I should have been having the same issue when I used the Hydro Copper blocks.


If the Optimus gpu blocks are flaking and losing enough coating that it’s clogging up your cpu block and causing flow and heat issues then it will be very obvious visually on the blocks. The coating will be coming off a lot in order to do what your saying it is. A few tiny specs here and there isn’t going to kill your performance like you have explained in your other posts so It must be coming off a lot. But Like others have said. Tear down the gpu blocks and inspect them. If they are the culprit, it will be obvious. And then take pictures and send them to Optimus and get replacements if it’s bad. Optimus doesn’t respond here anymore. Your not going to get anywhere here.


----------



## dwolvin

Avacado said:


> Why wouldn't you go Tygon if you are set on ZMT? Is it a cost or availability issue? Once you go Tygon black, you won't go back.


I didn't know about the availability of better tube when I got the ZMT, and I have one run in my current system that is ZMT because it blends into the setup better...


----------



## Avacado

dwolvin said:


> I didn't know about the availability of better tube when I got the ZMT, and I have one run in my current system that is ZMT because it blends into the setup better...


Makes sense. I'll allow it.


----------



## Shawnb99

criskoe said:


> If the Optimus gpu blocks are flaking and losing enough coating that it’s clogging up your cpu block and causing flow and heat issues then it will be very obvious visually on the blocks. The coating will be coming off a lot in order to do what your saying it is. A few tiny specs here and there isn’t going to kill your performance like you have explained in your other posts so It must be coming off a lot. But Like others have said. Tear down the gpu blocks and inspect them. If they are the culprit, it will be obvious. And then take pictures and send them to Optimus and get replacements if it’s bad. Optimus doesn’t respond here anymore. Your not going to get anywhere here.


Though if it is flaking please pay pics here. The more proof the better. If you haven’t given up on Optimus already maybe more evidence will be enough.


----------



## Biggu

Avacado said:


> Why wouldn't you go Tygon if you are set on ZMT? Is it a cost or availability issue? Once you go Tygon black, you won't go back.



Also size availability, I use 16.1/11.1mm (7/16" x 5/8") and I havent found that size in Tygon. So either I buy all new fittings or use ZMT and just make sure its clean.


----------



## Avacado

Biggu said:


> Also size availability, I use 16.1/11.1mm (7/16" x 5/8") and I havent found that size in Tygon. So either I buy all new fittings or use ZMT and just make sure its clean.


Good point.


----------



## Section31

criskoe said:


> If the Optimus gpu blocks are flaking and losing enough coating that it’s clogging up your cpu block and causing flow and heat issues then it will be very obvious visually on the blocks. The coating will be coming off a lot in order to do what your saying it is. A few tiny specs here and there isn’t going to kill your performance like you have explained in your other posts so It must be coming off a lot. But Like others have said. Tear down the gpu blocks and inspect them. If they are the culprit, it will be obvious. And then take pictures and send them to Optimus and get replacements if it’s bad. Optimus doesn’t respond here anymore. Your not going to get anywhere here.


They should talk with optimus but if was ftw3 could just get watercool block imo.


----------



## Section31

Loom what i found. Seasonic Prime 1600watt psu. Interesting on the adapter they have.









zFrontier 装备前线


zFrontier 装备前线 - 机械键盘、键帽、HiFi、摄影装备发烧友聚集地。用更强的装备，探索更大的世界。




www.zfrontier.com


----------



## Section31

So doing some spring cleaning and going back to the watercool cpu iv block. The optimus coldplate and block seemed to hold up over limited usage over 7months. However the damn copper elements in the loop continue to be annoying.


----------



## NorySS

if anyone is still looking for a metal back plate for their Optimus Intel CPU waterblock & 1700 mounting holes, you can use this from amazon. $12 USD. 

GENNEL Metal LGA1700 Motherboard Backplate, CPU Radiator Base Heatsink Mounting Backplane for Intel LGA 1700


----------



## vf-

criskoe said:


> If the Optimus gpu blocks are flaking and losing enough coating that it’s clogging up your cpu block and causing flow and heat issues then it will be very obvious visually on the blocks. The coating will be coming off a lot in order to do what your saying it is. A few tiny specs here and there isn’t going to kill your performance like you have explained in your other posts so It must be coming off a lot. But Like others have said. Tear down the gpu blocks and inspect them. If they are the culprit, it will be obvious. And then take pictures and send them to Optimus and get replacements if it’s bad. *Optimus doesn’t respond here anymore. Your not going to get anywhere here.*


What's the reason for that? Didn't EK do the same thing?


----------



## criskoe

vf- said:


> What's the reason for that? Didn't EK do the same thing?


Not alot of EK fans on OCN so they dont bother. OCN can be a tough crowd. They came back briefly when the magnitude cpu block launched but didn't receive a warm welcome so they stopped again. They retreated to their facebook fan page...

As for Optimus. Maybe same reasons...Who knows. Looks like they have completely given up on social media all together. Their twitter account has been crickets for a really long time too. Last real activity from them was when the Kingpin block was launched back at the end of 2021. Maybe they figure they have created enough of a name that they dont need to bother anymore. Maybe they will never have a OCN presence again. They were always going on about how they are a small team and have trouble keeping up with social media....

One thing is for certain tho. If they do come back here it will be to tease a new product and take pre orders but wont actually be available for 6 months to 1 year latter. LOL... And then this thread will once again be buzzing away with complaints, arguments and bickering.. That's the Optimus way!


----------



## acoustic

Optimus going completely ghost on every platform was not a comforting sign for me as a potential customer. I understand that they are small, but they kept talking about how they are expanding, etc.


----------



## chibi

criskoe said:


> One thing is for certain tho. If they do come back here it will be to tease a new product and take pre orders but wont actually be available for 6 months to 1 year latter. LOL... And then this thread will once again be buzzing away with complaints, arguments and bickering.. *That's the Optimus way!*


Ain't that the truth, lol.


----------



## Biggu

Honestly Optimus is a joke now. Sure im glad I have their product and it works really well but its like they dont exist any longer.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Biggu said:


> Honestly Optimus is a joke now. Sure im glad I have their product and it works really well but its like they dont exist any longer.


Yeah I'd be afraid to make another purchase from them. While the design and engineering and quality behind their products is amazing, lack of communication and now complete absence would have me quite worried should a problem come up. It's really inexcusable. The prices are already ridiculously high. Add an extra $10-$20 per block. Not enough to turn anyone away. And use that money to hire someone dedicated to communicating with customers. That would actually result in an increase in sales. Though they may presently feel like they don't need to get additional sales due to back orders and the supply/demand equation.

Overall, it's just really disappointing and I can't find any sort of excuse or justification for it.


----------



## acoustic

So.. anyone purchase from them recently?

Still alive?


----------



## chibi

I see a few reddit posts every now and then showing off their stuff. Looks like they're still pushing out product but no public contact.


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Probably less headache to respond only by email instead of constant forum chatter and replies.

I have what I want from them (CPU blocks), but I'll be going other routes like Watercool for my hardware going forward. Faster shipping.


----------



## GLuE

Anyone going to buy optimus when the 4000 series comes out?


----------



## Section31

GLuE said:


> Anyone going to buy optimus when the 4000 series comes out?


Its lot of wait and see now. I am expecting things to be lot more quiet on watercooling front from most of the smaller players including watercool. The times we are in are not really great to refresh/expand your lineup more than needed. 

Personally for 4000 series i think watercool would be my choice but im on the fence about buying 4000 series.


----------



## Section31

Cleaning up Mayhem Xtr 4nm is lot of fun lol. Still somewhere and i still got to cleanup the block again after leftover toothpaste from cleaning the cold plate.

Probably will let it be for now since i don’t use computer much anyway. I will just buy an 4080 or 5080 and get watercool or optimus block whenever in 2023/2024 at this rate.


----------



## rulik006

NorySS said:


> if anyone is still looking for a metal back plate for their Optimus Intel CPU waterblock & 1700 mounting holes, you can use this from amazon. $12 USD.
> 
> GENNEL Metal LGA1700 Motherboard Backplate, CPU Radiator Base Heatsink Mounting Backplane for Intel LGA 1700


This backplate is the best, super solid + replacing original, it making motherboard more similar to LGA20XX mounting
bought a pack of them at taobao, they cost $2.5 per pcs, but shipping expensive


Spoiler: LGA1700 Backplate


----------



## Section31

Meanwhile something is coming from watercool (hk). Rico is Watercool Boss









WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo


Reicht es, den Heatkiller RAD mit destilliertem Wasser durchzuspülen?




www.hardwareluxx.de


----------



## dwolvin

Nice!


----------



## Keith Myers

EVGA quits the video card business.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, that's queued up in my YT for after work (Jayz2cents has a thing on it). Crazy.


----------



## Zurv

_sigh_ 

Ok, which 4090 card will Optimus be making a card for? 
Clearly not EVGA . Asus Tuff? 

I really like my Optium blocks, but the delays are likely to be painful. (as normal)


----------



## CluckyTaco

Hey does anyone have a recommendation of which Tygon to get here in the US? My fittings are 3/8 (10 mm) ID and 5/8 (16 mm) OD. Please also share the retailer where I can get them. I'm tired of plasticizer showing up in the loop and cleaning it every month.

Also ngreedia strikes again with the pricing. I'm going to stick with 3080Ti till it lasts whenever that is.


----------



## Keith Myers

CluckyTaco said:


> Hey does anyone have a recommendation of which Tygon to get here in the US? My fittings are 3/8 (10 mm) ID and 5/8 (16 mm) OD. Please also share the retailer where I can get them. I'm tired of plasticizer showing up in the loop and cleaning it every month.
> 
> Also ngreedia strikes again with the pricing. I'm going to stick with 3080Ti till it lasts whenever that is.


McMaster-Carr or Grainger are industrial supply houses that have a wide selection of Tygon tubing SKUs.
McMaster-Carr

Tygon A-60-G is the same equivalent as EK ZMT tubing

https://www.grainger.com/search?searchQuery=Norprene+tubing&searchBar=true


----------



## Optimus WC

Hey all,

We've kept our head down, focused on upgrading our manufacturing and making product. We are going to keep a low profile on forums, since it becomes an all-day endeavor to respond to questions/comments. Email us or check out our Twitter: https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC

OVERALL COMPANY NOTES: 

Preorders never again
Production now much higher than before

4000 Series: 

*TLDR: 4090 BLOCKS ETA NOVEMBER (yes this November), NO PREORDERS, WE WILL ONLY SELL WHAT IS IN STOCK*
4090 PCB very similar to previous gen
PCBs are now MUCH shorter than before because of new power connector
RIP our EVGA brothers!! No FTW3 or KP obviously 
Strix/TUF PCB seem identical, we're confirming
Strix/TUF will be first block to be released, PCB is close but not identical to 3090
3090 Founders supply was all over the place. 4090 Founders should be better, it seems
We know less about Reference designs -- will there be one design or a bunch of quasi designs 
Right now, we'd like to do both Reference and Founders
We do not yet have CAD for Founders 4090, block will depend on CAD

CPU BLOCKS:

Exciting stuff for Intel late Oct
Exciting stuff for AMD late Oct
Updates for current customers Late Oct


----------



## acoustic

They're alive!


----------



## dwolvin

Tygon® A-60-G Industrial Grade Tubing | U.S. Plastic Corp. (usplastic.com) 
Or McMaster


----------



## CluckyTaco

Keith Myers said:


> McMaster-Carr or Grainger are industrial supply houses that have a wide selection of Tygon tubing SKUs.
> McMaster-Carr
> 
> Tygon A-60-G is the same equivalent as EK ZMT tubing
> 
> https://www.grainger.com/search?searchQuery=Norprene+tubing&searchBar=true


This is the cheapest of all the suggestions so far. Am I good to go here for a 25ft. roll?









McMaster-Carr


McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




www.mcmaster.com


----------



## Keith Myers

CluckyTaco said:


> This is the cheapest of all the suggestions so far. Am I good to go here for a 25ft. roll?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr
> 
> 
> McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.mcmaster.com


I'm not sure which link you are referring to. I don't see 25 ft. lengths available at Grainger, just 50 ft. McMaster-Carr offers as small quantity as 5 ft.
Your McMaster-Carr link goes to this. UV-Resistant Soft Plastic and Rubber Tubing for Air and Water
which has items for both PVC and EPDM rubber. You don't want PVC because of the plasticizers. You want the EPDM rubber.


----------



## CluckyTaco

Hmm I thought I pasted it right. But yeah that was the one I wanted. Thanks for confirming. I'll place an order right away.


----------



## Zurv

Optimus WC said:


> Hey all,
> 
> We've kept our head down, focused on upgrading our manufacturing and making product. We are going to keep a low profile on forums, since it becomes an all-day endeavor to respond to questions/comments. Email us or check out our Twitter: https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC
> 
> OVERALL COMPANY NOTES:
> 
> Preorders never again
> Production now much higher than before
> 
> 4000 Series:
> 
> *TLDR: 4090 BLOCKS ETA NOVEMBER (yes this November), NO PREORDERS, WE WILL ONLY SELL WHAT IS IN STOCK*
> 4090 PCB very similar to previous gen
> PCBs are now MUCH shorter than before because of new power connector
> RIP our EVGA brothers!! No FTW3 or KP obviously
> Strix/TUF PCB seem identical, we're confirming
> Strix/TUF will be first block to be released, PCB is close but not identical to 3090
> 3090 Founders supply was all over the place. 4090 Founders should be better, it seems
> We know less about Reference designs -- will there be one design or a bunch of quasi designs
> Right now, we'd like to do both Reference and Founders
> We do not yet have CAD for Founders 4090, block will depend on CAD
> 
> CPU BLOCKS:
> 
> Exciting stuff for Intel late Oct
> Exciting stuff for AMD late Oct
> Updates for current customers Late Oct


Thanks for the update.
I'd be down for an Asus Strix block AND a 4090 FE block. (I'll have the FE right around launch.)
While no pre-order is a good idea, might you guy entertain putting up sign ups so long-time customers can jump in when there is stock? (ie, give a little head start to people that ordered before.)


----------



## iamjanco

Need new gaskets for my Strix 3090 block (just ordered):










Let's see how well they do.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

So looks like 4090 TUF + Optimus for me. Any idea on pricing?


----------



## KCDC

Is the white cerakote discontinued? Wanted to get a replacement top for my sig v2 in white


----------



## KedarWolf

GraphicsWhore said:


> So looks like 4090 TUF + Optimus for me. Any idea on pricing?


Normally they don't make blocks for cards like the TUF, it's only the high-end cards like the Strix.


----------



## KedarWolf

Zurv said:


> Thanks for the update.
> I'd be down for an Asus Strix block AND a 4090 FE block. (I'll have the FE right around launch.)
> While no pre-order is a good idea, might you guy entertain putting up sign ups so long-time customers can jump in when there is stock? (ie, give a little head start to people that ordered before.)


The 3090 FEs had issues like you could only use the FE BIOS and not the Kingpin BIOS's etc.

I know the Kingpin BIOS won't be available but if you wanted to use a high-end 1000W BIOS or the equivalent like from HOF cards, it might be out of the question. 

Oh, and Optimus never made a block for the 3090 FE.


----------



## Optimus WC

We can confirm that Strix and TUF have nearly identical PCBs (where it matters for us). So we'll make one block for both. 

For pricing, the PCB is actually slightly taller this time. Board is much shorter. Price may change by a little, world material prices are a roller coaster. 

For colors, the Cerakote white has real problems with copper and brass. We've tried many, many things to make it work but the color will shift, and not in a consistent way. So right now, we're holding off oonf white. We might do a double layer process -- nickel first then white on top. But it'd need to be $60 or so higher premium for white. 

That means the launch color will be black ceramic.


----------



## vf-

Optimus WC said:


> We can confirm that Strix and TUF have nearly identical PCBs (where it matters for us). So we'll make one block for both.
> 
> For pricing, the PCB is actually slightly taller this time. Board is much shorter. Price may change by a little, world material prices are a roller coaster.
> 
> For colors, the Cerakote white has real problems with copper and brass. We've tried many, many things to make it work but the color will shift, and not in a consistent way. So right now, we're holding off oonf white. We might do a double layer process -- nickel first then white on top. But it'd need to be $60 or so higher premium for white.
> 
> That means the launch color will be black ceramic.


Oh great. Cards getting taller, again. How much taller? There's like barely 0.5mm between the glass panel on the 3080Ti in the Dynamic 011 XL.


----------



## Optimus WC

vf- said:


> Oh great. Cards getting taller, again. How much taller? There's like barely 0.5mm between the glass panel on the 3080Ti in the Dynamic 011 XL.


The strix/tuf is approx 5mm taller than the 3090 PCB. We're trying to keep the height down, the issue is the terminal needs room for the fittings so they don't overhang.


----------



## dwolvin

Huh, so vert mounts are about to get much more common I feel...


----------



## arvinz

Even with vert mounts there might be concern. It's hard to tell from these angles but the inlet/outlet terminals on my block are millimeters in distance to the cpu inlet fitting.

Also the Aquacomputer Flow NEXT is a couple of millimeters away from the glass so I don't have much room to play with:


----------



## acoustic

I wish this cerakote stuff would go away and they just went back to nickel plated


----------



## Optimus WC

acoustic said:


> I wish this cerakote stuff would go away and they just went back to nickel plated


Why?

Also, we can make the block the same height as before, it'll work.


----------



## arvinz

Optimus WC said:


> Why?
> 
> Also, we can make the block the same height as before, it'll work.


That would definitely help for those of us like me! It's still going to affect the tubing a bit because of where the new 12-pin connector is but it's part of the fun.

I love the black cerakote. I would suggest, however, to stick to the standard Philips screws for the cold plate as opposed to those other ones with the tiny screw head. I was losing air pressure with those and you guys sent me the Philips screws and it solved the problem.


----------



## Biggu

acoustic said:


> I wish this cerakote stuff would go away and they just went back to nickel plated


100% agree. The Cerakote stuff just looks disappointing when it comes to nickle. For black or white sure I suppose it makes sense. I know they said the nickle finish looks vert close to the same as nickle plating but having had both in hand the nickle Cerakote finish just doesent look right. Its flat and very monochromatic especially when put next to the other stuff. 

I know Optimus had QC issues and time issues with the plating but man I really wish it came back.


----------



## Section31

@Optimus WC Nice to see you back here. Any updates on your fittings plans?


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> 100% agree. The Cerakote stuff just looks disappointing when it comes to nickle. For black or white sure I suppose it makes sense. I know they said the nickle finish looks vert close to the same as nickle plating but having had both in hand the nickle Cerakote finish just doesent look right. Its flat and very monochromatic especially when put next to the other stuff.
> 
> I know Optimus had QC issues and time issues with the plating but man I really wish it came back.


There ceratoke finish isn't perfect i will agree. The coldplate o-ring and securing one screw side is an issue i found. When i dissembled mine, one came off. Fortunate this time, i have an actual screwdriver to handle it not the alien key. Wasn't an issue with nickle/copper finish


----------



## vf-

Biggu said:


> 100% agree. The Cerakote stuff just looks disappointing when it comes to nickle. For black or white sure I suppose it makes sense. I know they said the nickle finish looks vert close to the same as nickle plating but having had both in hand the nickle Cerakote finish just doesent look right. Its flat and very monochromatic especially when put next to the other stuff.
> 
> I know Optimus had QC issues and time issues with the plating but man I really wish it came back.


Disappointing in what aspect? Just visually, there is no wear? Personally I'd love to have it like that. All matte black. There's something very sexy when you've got many shades of matte black with a touch of tiny areas of gloss somewhere. Stealth is awesome.


----------



## Biggu

vf- said:


> Disappointing in what aspect? Just visually, there is no wear? Personally I'd love to have it like that. All matte black. There's something very sexy when you've got many shades of matte black with a touch of tiny areas of gloss somewhere. Stealth is awesome.


I'm specifically talking about the nickle not the black and white.


----------



## Sir Beregond

vf- said:


> Oh great. Cards getting taller, again. How much taller? There's like barely 0.5mm between the glass panel on the 3080Ti in the Dynamic 011 XL.


You think that's bad, take a look at my O11-D non-XL. No 30-series card except the FE model for the 3080 Ti could realistically fit without either being too long or too tall, or both. Doubt I could fit a 3090/3090 Ti in here with a water block. Vertical mount is a no go too due to radiator mount on bottom.


----------



## vf-

Sir Beregond said:


> You think that's bad, take a look at my O11-D non-XL. No 30-series card except the FE model for the 3080 Ti could realistically fit without either being too long or too tall, or both. Doubt I could fit a 3090/3090 Ti in here with a water block. Vertical mount is a no go too due to radiator mount on bottom.


Sometimes I wonder what NVIDIA is thinking. Yeah lets make cards even bigger for you to buy yet another case so you can get the side panel on. That was the reason I had to get the XL. The card was sticking out 1cm stopping the side panel on the 011D.

I wanted to go for the Phantek's Enthoo 719 but the bottom chamber was too tight for the EK XE 360. I didn't want to have to buy a new case and another new radiator.
7m 21s 




If this keeps up I'm going to have to get an even bigger case in the future.


----------



## Sir Beregond

vf- said:


> Sometimes I wonder what NVIDIA is thinking. Yeah lets make cards even bigger for you to buy yet another case so you can get the side panel on. That was the reason I had to get the XL. The card was sticking out 1cm stopping the side panel on the 011D.
> 
> I wanted to go for the Phantek's Enthoo 719 but the bottom chamber was too tight for the EK XE 360. I didn't want to have to buy a new case and another new radiator.
> 7m 21s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this keeps up I'm going to have to get an even bigger case in the future.


Yeah, new graphics card? Better to buy a new case and a new PSU. Too much $$$$$.


----------



## bearsdidit

Great to hear from Optimus directly regarding new 4090 blocks. I’ll do my best to secure a Strix 4090!


----------



## Section31

bearsdidit said:


> Great to hear from Optimus directly regarding new 4090 blocks. I’ll do my best to secure a Strix 4090!


4090 should be not hard i feel.


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Yeah, new graphics card? Better to buy a new case and a new PSU. Too much $$$$$.


PSU part sucks. Makes me glad i am still on my caselabs


----------



## KedarWolf

Sir Beregond said:


> Yeah, new graphics card? Better to buy a new case and a new PSU. Too much $$$$$.


People hate on Thermaktake but I really love my Core X9 case. Horizontal motherboard tray, lots of fan and rad space, huge. Lots of room for ANY video card.

I have two 360 rads on top and could do two 480 rads on top of I wanted. Still room for more rads too, like I think a 360 in front and a 360 on bottom easily. If have to look at the manual to be 100% sure of those two rads though, but I'm pretty sure, rads will fit, just don't remember the sizes.

Really hard to find one for sale now though. 

Oh, and I'm very happy Corsair made a power cable for my AX1600i for the power input of the 4090. If I got a HOF card or something that might have two power connectors, I could still even do that with that PSU.


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> People hate on Thermaktake but I really love my Core X9 case. Horizontal motherboard tray, lots of fan and rad space, huge. Lots of room for ANY video card.
> 
> I have two 360 rads on top and could do two 480 rads on top of I wanted. Still room for more rads too, like I think a 360 in front and a 360 on bottom easily. If have to look at the manual to be 100% sure of those two rads though, but I'm pretty sure, rads will fit, just don't remember the sizes.
> 
> Really hard to find one for sale now though.
> 
> Oh, and I'm very happy Corsair made a power cable for my AX1600i for the power input of the 4090. If I got a HOF card or something that might have two power connectors, I could still even do that with that PSU.


It’s because its based off an very good design in the caselabs mercury and improved it in some aspects. That horizontal caselabs is probably my favourite case. I want the base whenever caselabs revival comes back

I probably need to upgrade to seasonic tx-1300 watt series psu myself. Though thats 2023


----------



## RichKnecht

Has anyone tried the Sig V2 with the EK backplate on 12th gen intel?


----------



## Optimus WC

RichKnecht said:


> Has anyone tried the Sig V2 with the EK backplate on 12th gen intel?


We have. It works and there can be an improvement depending on how hard you push your system and how your Intel 12900k is shaped (IHS are somewhat variable). We will be offering an Intel backplate (a very strong one) in the future that will be compatible with previous blocks.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Optimus WC said:


> Will we be offering an Intel backplate (a very strong one) in the future that will be compatible with previous blocks.


Is this a question or a mistype of a statement?


----------



## Optimus WC

Sir Beregond said:


> Is this a question or a mistype of a statement?


Typo  We will be offering it.


----------



## NorySS

Optimus WC said:


> We have. It works and there can be an improvement depending on how hard you push your system and how your Intel 12900k is shaped (IHS are somewhat variable). We will be offering an Intel backplate (a very strong one) in the future that will be compatible with previous blocks.


the one i linked? or you going to make a slab of aluminum?


----------



## Optimus WC

NorySS said:


> the one i linked? or you going to make a slab of aluminum?


Slab


----------



## KedarWolf

I think the Optimus Foundation AM4 block works with AM5. right @Optimus WC ?

Oh yes, it does, I checked on your website.


----------



## Optimus WC

KedarWolf said:


> I think the Optimus Foundation AM4 block works with AM5. right @Optimus WC ?
> 
> Oh yes, it does, I checked on your website.


Yup! 

If you test it and get results, share them here, we're interested in seeing the numbers and also paste spread -- the new IHS is very, uh, interesting, and we're not sure what kind of bow people are getting across many different samples.


----------



## dwolvin

AMD didn't post tech specs on the IHS?


----------



## Optimus WC

dwolvin said:


> AMD didn't post tech specs on the IHS?


They post the mechanical specs, but the actual IHS concave/convex shape that defines the contact is always the variable with CPUs. This is what happened with socket-gate on 12th gen. TR looks like ripples in a pond. AM5 CPUs might be flatter because of the super thick IHS and stronger pre-installed backplate.


----------



## KedarWolf

Optimus WC said:


> Yup!
> 
> If you test it and get results, share them here, we're interested in seeing the numbers and also paste spread -- the new IHS is very, uh, interesting, and we're not sure what kind of bow people are getting across many different samples.


Be maybe two months before I have a motherboard and DDR5 though, but I do have the 7950x.


----------



## NorySS

Optimus WC said:


> Slab


just do me a solid..... Please integrate the mounting thread holes for the ILM into the plate so its all one piece.


----------



## Keith Myers

I still think it was a mistake for AMD to sacrifice thermal performance to accommodate AM4 cooler compatibility in maintaining the Z-height.


----------



## Optimus WC

NorySS said:


> just do me a solid..... Please integrate the mounting thread holes for the ILM into the plate so its all one piece.


Naturally!



Keith Myers said:


> I still think it was a mistake for AMD to sacrifice thermal performance to accommodate AM4 cooler compatibility in maintaining the Z-height.


Absolutely. Someone needs to start a bare die advocacy group. So CPUs can be like GPUs. Instant performance.


----------



## jink

Optimus WC said:


> Naturally!
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely. Someone needs to start a bare die advocacy group. So CPUs can be like GPUs. Instant performance.


There is a start on that...


----------



## Optimus WC

jink said:


> There is a start on that...


Haha yeah that shows the performance. Imagine X670X3d (or whatever) platform that's only for bare die CPUs, say a 7950x3d. 

Honestly, we'd like it to be like a GPUs -- a motherboard with the CPU already soldered into the board.


----------



## KedarWolf

Optimus WC said:


> Haha yeah that shows the performance. Imagine X670X3d (or whatever) platform that's only for bare die CPUs, say a 7950x3d.
> 
> Honestly, we'd like it to be like a GPUs -- a motherboard with the CPU already soldered into the board.


If I went bare die in my 7950x, my Foundation block would still work, right? I think it's like 20C less bare die.


----------



## Optimus WC

KedarWolf said:


> If I went bare die in my 7950x, my Foundation block would still work, right? I think it's like 20C less bare die.


It should work, but we haven't tested. The profile appears to work, 20c is great, and the 7000 delidder definitely looks appealing.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> Haha yeah that shows the performance. Imagine X670X3d (or whatever) platform that's only for bare die CPUs, say a 7950x3d.
> 
> Honestly, we'd like it to be like a GPUs -- a motherboard with the CPU already soldered into the board.


I wish intel would have the same too. How was the plans on those extenders and adapters fittings coming alone. And those rotary fittings.


----------



## KedarWolf

Optimus WC said:


> It should work, but we haven't tested. The profile appears to work, 20c is great, and the 7000 delidder definitely looks appealing.


Bare die on the Foundation block works with say a 5950x, right?


----------



## Optimus WC

KedarWolf said:


> Bare die on the Foundation block works with say a 5950x, right?


It should



Section31 said:


> I wish intel would have the same too. How was the plans on those extenders and adapters fittings coming alone. And those rotary fittings.


We're working on the angles now, things are going to move faster on the fitting side


----------



## KedarWolf

Optimus WC said:


> It should
> 
> 
> 
> We're working on the angles now, things are going to move faster on the fitting side


I need to buy a new Foundation block. Mine is slightly pitted from a bad batch of Grizzly Kryonaut.

I'll NEVER use Kryonaut again. If I recall right, it did it on another block too.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> It should
> 
> 
> 
> We're working on the angles now, things are going to move faster on the fitting side


Looking to replace those bitspower extenders and ekwb torque fittings in next build. Make some quick disconnect too, would love cpc colder lq6 ones


----------



## KedarWolf

Section31 said:


> Looking to replace those bitspower extenders and ekwb torque fittings in next build. Make some quick disconnect too, would love cpc colder lq6 ones


I'd love some quick disconnects as well.


----------



## KedarWolf

@Optimus WC 

Will the 4090 blocks also work with 4090 Ti's when they're released?

I'm buying a 4090 Ti in March when I get my tax refund.


----------



## Optimus WC

KedarWolf said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> Will the 4090 blocks also work with 4090 Ti's when they're released?
> 
> I'm buying a 4090 Ti in March when I get my tax refund.


Absolutely no idea. We don't know what the 4080 PCB looks like, or have samples of any of these yet  The 4090 Strix/TUF is nearly ready, but we're waiting on info about everything else.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Optimus WC said:


> Honestly, we'd like it to be like a GPUs -- a motherboard with the CPU already soldered into the board.


Not sure I would go that far. Really...soldered onto the board? Lots of enthusiasts are constantly changing around configs. I think it would be sufficient if they just offered bare die versions, or just went back to bare die at this stage. IHS is clearly a hinderance to performance, and it isn't like we didn't used to be bare die anyway 20 years ago.


----------



## ArcticZero

Looks like it's Strix + Optimus for me then. Was extremely disappointed in the nickel plating on my EK for my reference 3090. The active backplate is spotless, but the main block just looks horrible now. By comparison, the bare copper Foundation block on my 5950x looks pristine.


----------



## Kashtan

Optimus WC said:


> Absolutely no idea. We don't know what the 4080 PCB looks like, or have samples of any of these yet  The 4090 Strix/TUF is nearly ready, but we're waiting on info about everything else.


According to rumors, 800 watts will be in 4090 ti even without overclocking. And with overclocking ... More than a kilowatt of heat? And that's not counting the potential of Titan Ada, about 900 watts, without overclocking. 1200 watts? More?
Do you have any idea to remove this amount of heat? Waterblock with 3 slots backplate?


----------



## Optimus WC

Kashtan said:


> According to rumors, 800 watts will be in 4090 ti even without overclocking. And with overclocking ... More than a kilowatt of heat? And that's not counting the potential of Titan Ada, about 900 watts, without overclocking. 1200 watts? More?
> Do you have any idea to remove this amount of heat? Waterblock with 3 slots backplate?


Our block will handle it, no problem. An active back waterblock is only for rear vram. All the extra heat will be on the die and the powder delivery, which will get handled by the front block. 

All that said, we doubt we'll see anything close to 1200w. Or even 1000w. Since the most a 15amp home outlet can handle is 1600w.


----------



## vf-

KedarWolf said:


> I need to buy a new Foundation block. Mine is slightly pitted from a bad batch of Grizzly Kryonaut.
> 
> I'll NEVER use Kryonaut again. If I recall right, it did it on another block too.


Which, the pink stuff?


----------



## GLuE

Kashtan said:


> According to rumors, 800 watts will be in 4090 ti even without overclocking. And with overclocking ... More than a kilowatt of heat? And that's not counting the potential of Titan Ada, about 900 watts, without overclocking. 1200 watts? More?
> Do you have any idea to remove this amount of heat? Waterblock with 3 slots backplate?


mo-ra3


----------



## JMAzoso

Optimus WC said:


> It should work, but we haven't tested. The profile appears to work, 20c is great, and the 7000 delidder definitely looks appealing.


So appealing here too. My loop is, and will be soldered copper pipe, so i may wait on the full rebuild till I can get delider and frame.


----------



## doox00

I could use some help, I just received a new optimus amd cpu block and I took the acetal lid off to rotate it 180 degrees but now can't get it to seal. There is no slot for the oring to fit into and if you try to place it on the coldplate it gets pinched when putting the lid back on, any help would be appreciated!


----------



## Optimus WC

doox00 said:


> I could use some help, I just received a new optimus amd cpu block and I took the acetal lid off to rotate it 180 degrees but now can't get it to seal. There is no slot for the oring to fit into and if you try to place it on the coldplate it gets pinched when putting the lid back on, any help would be appreciated!


Hey there, so when reassembling it, be sure to take it all apart. Then attach the top to the bracket first. Then add the o-rings, then the cold plate last. If you try to do it in reverse, it won't seal. 

Also, remember to rotate the cold plate as well if you rotate the top


----------



## doox00

Optimus WC said:


> Hey there, so when reassembling it, be sure to take it all apart. Then attach the top to the bracket first. Then add the o-rings, then the cold plate last. If you try to do it in reverse, it won't seal.
> 
> Also, remember to rotate the cold plate as well if you rotate the top


Okay, thank you. I was able to get it back together and passed a pressure test after several attempts. I had already mounted it on my cpu and realized I needed the inlet on top instead of bottom so I took the top off and rotated it 180 degrees.. the copper base/coldplate needs to be rotated 180 degrees as well? the fins are still running up and down, or is it different from one side of the fins to the other?


----------



## Optimus WC

doox00 said:


> Okay, thank you. I was able to get it back together and passed a pressure test after several attempts. I had already mounted it on my cpu and realized I needed the inlet on top instead of bottom so I took the top off and rotated it 180 degrees.. the copper base/coldplate needs to be rotated 180 degrees as well? the fins are still running up and down, or is it different from one side of the fins to the other?


Ah, yes, yeah the cold plate doesn't need to rotate if the top is 180, only if 90


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

> Absolutely. Someone needs to start a bare die advocacy group. So CPUs can be like GPUs. Instant performance.


I can vouch for your V2 working bare die on my 9900KS keeping all cores under 90C on P95.


----------



## sakete

So is it going to be the same lottery trying to get one's hands on the 4090, with scalpers snagging everything up in seconds? Or is it not as bad now?

And who will be to market first with a block? Optimus or Watercool? Currently running a 3080 FTW3 with Optimus block, but it took forever to get that block out. Haven't really been here in a couple years. Is Optimus more reliable now in terms of time estimates?

And for which cards are blocks being designed?


----------



## sakete

Optimus WC said:


> Absolutely no idea. We don't know what the 4080 PCB looks like, or have samples of any of these yet  The 4090 Strix/TUF is nearly ready, but we're waiting on info about everything else.


Is the 4090 Strix/TUF the only one you're making a block for? And this one block will work on either the Strix or the TUF? As IF I went for the 4090 (and that's a big IF), I'd go for the TUF. Strix would be just absolute overkill (and the 4090 is already absolute overkill, lol).


----------



## sakete

delete


----------



## originxt

sakete said:


> Is the 4090 Strix/TUF the only one you're making a block for? And this one block will work on either the Strix or the TUF? As IF I went for the 4090 (and that's a big IF), I'd go for the TUF. Strix would be just absolute overkill (and the 4090 is already absolute overkill, lol).


I believe they mentioned the FE as the next model on their Twitter? I was debating even getting an upgrade this go around but the benchmarks are pretty solid. I might go FE model this time over an AIB since I'm not expecting big power limitations this go around with cards. I offered to send a card should they be unable to pick one up. Hopefully with a saturated gpu market, I won't have too much of an issue getting a card at launch this time.

Maybe get a strix but seems unnecessary unless they show like 10-15% increase due to high PL.


----------



## sakete

originxt said:


> I believe they mentioned the FE as the next model on their Twitter? I was debating even getting an upgrade this go around but the benchmarks are pretty solid. I might go FE model this time over an AIB since I'm not expecting big power limitations this go around with cards. I offered to send a card should they be unable to pick one up. Hopefully with a saturated gpu market, I won't have too much of an issue getting a card at launch this time.
> 
> Maybe get a strix but seems unnecessary unless they show like 10-15% increase due to high PL.


Given the already insane pricing, I don't think a Strix is worth the additional $400, no matter how much performance they can squeeze out of it.


----------



## sakete

Well, I snagged one, a TUF OC. I really wanted the regular TUF, as anything else is overkill. But it's still a sh** show 2 years later, everything sold out very quick.

@Optimus WC Bring on those 4090 TUF blocks!


----------



## Mroberts95

I picked up a Strix 4090 from Newegg!


----------



## sakete

I'm glad I have a vertical mount in my case, as these cards are true behemoths.


----------



## Mroberts95

Hopefully Optimus was able to snag a 4090 Strix/Tuf from Newegg or somewhere.


----------



## iamjanco

and they're off!


----------



## Section31

No luck here but im targeting founders 100% here. Best deal in canada and all savings go to the waterblock

Bestbuy has the tuf but its still expensive at 2500cad. Water block plus founders will cost me the same almost.

Should be ok to get one just matter of short wait it appears.


----------



## sakete

I now have 2 Asus TUF OC 4090s, lol. My local Micro Center also had one. If anyone here wants the one I got through Newegg, at cost of course (+ shipping), send me a message. I'll otherwise cancel it here later this morning, as I'd overall rather give Micro Center my business.


----------



## arvinz

Picked up a Strix 4090 from Best Buy in Canada..pricey sucker...but debated whether to save $300 and get the TUF. Do you guys think the TUF/Strix PCB's are more or less identical and performance/temps will be similar once the Optimus block is on? Is there ANY advantage getting the Strix over the TUF if you're putting it under water?


----------



## sakete

arvinz said:


> Picked up a Strix 4090 from Best Buy in Canada..pricey sucker...but debated whether to save $300 and get the TUF. Do you guys think the TUF/Strix PCB's are more or less identical and performance/temps will be similar once the Optimus block is on? Is there ANY advantage getting the Strix over the TUF if you're putting it under water?


I think there will be almost 0 benefit when putting it under water. But what's another $400 on a $1600 card. I got the TUF OC, which is $200 more than the base TUF, so I feel even more screwed. But the base TUF was the first to sell out, probably partly because it was the cheapest, and partly because Asus probably produced the least of those, expecting it to sell out quick so they could push their higher margin cards.


----------



## Biggu

I plan to wait and get the strix 4090 in a few weeks/ month or so due to other compllications. Hopefully I plan to get a waterblock first then go get the card.


----------



## Section31

arvinz said:


> Picked up a Strix 4090 from Best Buy in Canada..pricey sucker...but debated whether to save $300 and get the TUF. Do you guys think the TUF/Strix PCB's are more or less identical and performance/temps will be similar once the Optimus block is on? Is there ANY advantage getting the Strix over the TUF if you're putting it under water?


Nice. I didn't catch it but i'm also not in hurry to get the 4090 as i'm out of the country soon for vacation for 2months so by time i get back should be able to get one. Could also buy while in Asia too but unlikely. However,the price of the founders make me want to move on with the dropping cad currency.

The difference between the strix and the founders is just too much imo.


----------



## Mroberts95

Also got a FE from Bestbuy today, Debating on which to keep going forward. I know Optimus is going to make FE blocks as well fingers crossed


----------



## sakete

So I just removed the FTW 3080 + Optimus block from my PC, to install the 4090, just to give it a test run. I noticed the 3080 was covered in a thick oily substance - could that be from the thick thermal pad the Optimus block came with? Is that normal? It was oozing into the GPU slot (vertical mount).


----------



## acoustic

Definitely oil from the thermal pad. Normal. I'd clean it all up before you put the new card in


----------



## iamjanco

ain't posted much of intrinsic value here on ocn in a while, so here's some of my latest:

_here from the dead_ (fighting an oral infection, I see the surgeon on Monday--currently on antibiotics for an abscess in the roof of my mouth); so I managed to get the Aquaero 6LT to recognize both D5 Next pumps via usb, but only the one via Aquabus. t'is what it is and I'll live with that for the time being. As for picking up a 4090, nope, nada, ain't gonna play leather jacket's game this time around. maybe when the 4090ti releases, but only if we're not fighting alpha particles and/or gamma rays come that time. meanwhile, here's a couple of _still_ lifes...


----------



## Section31

Mroberts95 said:


> Also got a FE from Bestbuy today, Debating on which to keep going forward. I know Optimus is going to make FE blocks as well fingers crossed


This generation seems lot easier on waterblock side at least though.


----------



## sakete

I'm just hoping Optimus doesn't ask some ridiculous price for these blocks when competitors such as Heatkiller perform just as well, have a similar quality and all at a much lower price.


----------



## acoustic

sakete said:


> I'm just hoping Optimus doesn't ask some ridiculous price for these blocks when competitors such as Heatkiller perform just as well, have a similar quality and all at a much lower price.


They perform close, but the Optimus was still superior by 2-3c delta.

Even EK had a good block for the STRIX on 3000 series. Been over a year and still maintaining a ~14c WaterT delta at 450watt


----------



## KedarWolf

acoustic said:


> They perform close, but the Optimus was still superior by 2-3c delta.
> 
> Even EK had a good block for the STRIX on 3000 series. Been over a year and still maintaining a ~14c WaterT delta at 450watt


My Optimus block performs quite a bit better than my EKWB Strix block did on my 3090.


----------



## acoustic

KedarWolf said:


> My Optimus block performs quite a bit better than my EKWB Strix block did on my 3090.


I'd hope so, given the cost difference lol.

Optimus definitely had the best performing block. I think HeatKiller had the best balance between WaterT and cost, though. It's unfortunate they were so late to market with their products.

Apparently that won't be as much of an issue this generation. We should see some good competition in the waterblock market.


----------



## sakete

acoustic said:


> I'd hope so, given the cost difference lol.
> 
> Optimus definitely had the best performing block. I think HeatKiller had the best balance between WaterT and cost, though. It's unfortunate they were so late to market with their products.
> 
> Apparently that won't be as much of an issue this generation. We should see some good competition in the waterblock market.


Competition is always good for the consumer


----------



## sakete

Optimus has a poll up on Twitter about if they should do pre-orders or not. Most people voting for no pre-orders, but weekly batches a close second.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

sakete said:


> I'm just hoping Optimus doesn't ask some ridiculous price for these blocks when competitors such as Heatkiller perform just as well, have a similar quality and all at a much lower price.


I mean I assume it's going to be about the same cost as their current GPU blocks.


----------



## sakete

And they put it on their site: Absolute Strix & TUF 4090 GPU Waterblock

$399. That's a lot for a block. I didn't pay that much for my 3080 block, but I had a pre-order so probably discounted.

But I'll probably get it, especially if they are first to market with an actual shipable product. If Watercool is first, I'll get theirs. Not interested in EKWB or any of the other brands.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> And they put it on their site: Absolute Strix & TUF 4090 GPU Waterblock
> 
> $399. That's a lot for a block. I didn't pay that much for my 3080 block, but I had a pre-order so probably discounted.
> 
> But I'll probably get it, especially if they are first to market with an actual shipable product. If Watercool is first, I'll get theirs. Not interested in EKWB or any of the other brands.


hopefully strix/tuf pcb are the same. Then you can use watercool block. Otherwise, your only hope is Optimus.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I'd hope so, given the cost difference lol.
> 
> Optimus definitely had the best performing block. I think HeatKiller had the best balance between WaterT and cost, though. It's unfortunate they were so late to market with their products.
> 
> Apparently that won't be as much of an issue this generation. We should see some good competition in the waterblock market.


We will see what happens with next generation. It seems like watercool is redesigning there GPU block for this round. Will see what results they get this around. More Competition is good, any way to get lower delta T right.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> hopefully strix/tuf pcb are the same. Then you can use watercool block. Otherwise, your only hope is Optimus.


Odd are that if Optimus can design one block for both TUF/STRIX, the PCB layout is the same.


----------



## sakete

Ehh, I'm out for this round. Returning my TUF 4090. I really don't need this kinda power at this time, especially not when it'll be $2.5K including a waterblock. Maybe the 50xx series I'll be back  My 3080 is good enough for now, I don't game that much anymore anyway.


----------



## Optimus WC

The Strix and TUF PCBs are close enough for waterblock design. 

We have a TUF in house, the GPU is very good, waterblocked there will likely be no diff between the strix and tuf.


----------



## asdf893

Optimus WC said:


> Ah, yes, sorry about that. We use imperial because _America_. The CPU screws are 7/64.


How obnoxious. I'm trying to replace the plexi on my amd block now because the threads on the original plexi are fouled up and now I need to look for a 7/64 bit.


----------



## iamjanco

Optimus WC said:


> We have a TUF in house


Got pix you're willing to share?


----------



## arvinz

Optimus WC said:


> The Strix and TUF PCBs are close enough for waterblock design.
> 
> We have a TUF in house, the GPU is very good, waterblocked there will likely be no diff between the strix and tuf.


I know Strix/Tuf blocks are up first but how soon after can we expect the FE blocks? I'm on the fence of keeping my Strix as I'm not really seeing much of a value in it over the FE once it's on water. Especially not $700+ more.

In Canada (Ontario):

FE: $2.099.99 = $2,372.99 after tax
Strix: $2759.99 = $3,118.79 after tax

About $745 difference...I love the Strix line but I'm not seeing $745 worth of difference from the FE. 

That extra cash can go towards your block


----------



## chibi

iamjanco said:


> ain't posted much of intrinsic value here on ocn in a while, so here's some of my latest:
> 
> _here from the dead_ (fighting an oral infection, I see the surgeon on Monday--currently on antibiotics for an abscess in the roof of my mouth); so I managed to get the Aquaero 6LT to recognize both D5 Next pumps via usb, but only the one via Aquabus. t'is what it is and I'll live with that for the time being. As for picking up a 4090, nope, nada, ain't gonna play leather jacket's game this time around. maybe when the 4090ti releases, but only if we're not fighting alpha particles and/or gamma rays come that time. meanwhile, here's a couple of _still_ lifes...
> View attachment 2575656
> 
> View attachment 2575658


Get well soon buddy! Your man cave is my aspiration.



arvinz said:


> I know Strix/Tuf blocks are up first but how soon after can we expect the FE blocks? I'm on the fence of keeping my Strix as I'm not really seeing much of a value in it over the FE once it's on water. Especially not $700+ more.
> 
> In Canada (Ontario):
> 
> FE: $2.099.99 = $2,372.99 after tax
> Strix: $2759.99 = $3,118.79 after tax
> 
> About $745 difference...I love the Strix line but I'm not seeing $745 worth of difference from the FE.
> 
> That extra cash can go towards your block


From my observations so far, people are following this thought process in terms of allocating block funds vs aib cards.


----------



## arvinz

chibi said:


> Get well soon buddy! Your man cave is my aspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> From my observations so far, people are following this thought process in terms of allocating block funds vs aib cards.


Yep...if anyone wants to trade their FE for my Strix + cash let me know  My Best Buy order still says In Progress but hopefully ships soon.


----------



## Section31

arvinz said:


> Yep...if anyone wants to trade their FE for my Strix + cash let me know  My Best Buy order still says In Progress but hopefully ships soon.


I think you probably should just return it or sell it for profit tbh. The way demand looking by early 2023 anyone who wants one should be able to get it. You have an 30xx series to hold you over till it does. It's actually an no lose situation i feel - you either get an 4090 in early 2023 or your hold out for 5090 in late 2023/early 2024. No loss either way.

I have even looked into buying it without the US and getting my US friend to bring up myself. That and possibly buy from Asia is always an option for me. Sure can probably save some in taxes and use local currency versus canadian dollar but the issue is luggage space for that option. I got to bring back an keyboard potentially so no way i have room for both. The best option so far seems to be Bestbuy Canada.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Get well soon buddy! Your man cave is my aspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> From my observations so far, people are following this thought process in terms of allocating block funds vs aib cards.


Common sense for most canadians. The GTX 1080TI/RTX2080TI also was the same from my experience.


----------



## KedarWolf

I'm preordering my ASUS Strix 4090 OC today. Up to a month before they actually have stock here in Toronto, Canada though. 

But if anyone can put a deposit down, you can call Memory Express here in Canada and preorder 4090s.


----------



## arvinz

KedarWolf said:


> I'm preordering my ASUS Strix 4090 OC today. Up to a month before they actually have stock here in Toronto, Canada though.
> 
> But if anyone can put a deposit down, you can call Memory Express here in Canada and preorder 4090s.


I'm in TO...I can sell you my Strix once it comes if you want before I return it, let me know.


----------



## KedarWolf

arvinz said:


> I'm in TO...I can sell you my Strix once it comes if you want before I return it, let me know.


I PM'd you.


----------



## iamjanco

iamjanco said:


> Got pix you're willing to share?


Crickets (naturally).

Can't say I trust them much; not after the ways they've conducted business the past few years.

You want my money, you show me a _Werkstatt._


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> I'm preordering my ASUS Strix 4090 OC today. Up to a month before they actually have stock here in Toronto, Canada though.
> 
> But if anyone can put a deposit down, you can call Memory Express here in Canada and preorder 4090s.


Nice. I thought same but founders just so much cheaper


----------



## KedarWolf

Section31 said:


> Nice. I thought same but founders just so much cheaper


3090 Founders had issues you could only use the stock BIOS and stuff. Plus the Strix is a well-built card, VRM specs etc.


----------



## KedarWolf

@Optimus WC The shipping to Canada for an AMD Foundation block is over $46 USD. To the USA is a bit over $9 USD.

Is there anything that can be done about that? Can't afford $46+.


----------



## KedarWolf

Oh, on the Strix 4090 block they use black screw heads. I always had to swap out the silver screws for black ones on my 3090 Strix block.


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> 3090 Founders had issues you could only use the stock BIOS and stuff. Plus the Strix is a well-built card, VRM specs etc.


Not debating that but 700cad plus difference is something not to ignore. I can buy almost buy 4090 fe plus block for costs of tuf and less than strix alone. Unless you oc a lot etc than the value there.


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> @Optimus WC The shipping to Canada for an AMD Foundation block is over $46 USD. To the USA is a bit over $9 USD.
> 
> Is there anything that can be done about that? Can't afford $46+.


Easy send it to us forwarder and they send up or po box and go pickup from us border. You can also do split shipping by combining your orders together. Thats how i reduced my order costs. The third option is send to us friend and get them to bring up.

Basically while me, shawnb99, chibi were unable to properly time our optimus purchases together, we seriously considered pooling out resources together to reduce costs by ordering together etc. I luckily have other real life friends i could pool together to get stuff.


----------



## KedarWolf

Section31 said:


> Easy send it to us forwarder and they send up or po box and go pickup from us border. You can also do split shipping by combining your orders together. Thats how i reduced my order costs. The third option is send to us friend and get them to bring up.
> 
> Basically while me, shawnb99, chibi were unable to properly time our optimus purchases together, we seriously considered pooling out resources together to reduce costs by ordering together etc. I luckily have other real life friends i could pool together to get stuff.


Costs me a bit over $9 USD to ship to the forwarder, the cheapest one was 18 USD to Canada, and I don't think it was tax-exempt. That's still $27 USD, on a $124 USD CPU, still a lot.

I checked that even before you suggested it.

Edit: Found a service, a bit over $9 USD Optimus shipping to send it to them, and $7 CAD to send it to their warehouse in Toronto for me to pick up.

It's called Shippsy.


----------



## criskoe

With the costs of fuel these days I cant imagine shipping is going to get any cheaper unfortunately for importing to Canada.. If anything its just going to get more expensive. Unless Optimus starts fulfilling through amazon or we get a new water-cooling company up here that will carry Optimus your prolly going to have to pay to play if you really want optimus gear.

Lots of these carriers are also charging crazy customs brokerage fees now on top too of the duties and taxes so beware.! 

My most recent import through UPS last week was $41 dollars in government charges and $66.50 in UPS brokerage Charges. LOL... Such a joke..


----------



## KedarWolf

criskoe said:


> With the costs of fuel these days I cant imagine shipping is going to get any cheaper unfortunately for importing to Canada.. If anything its just going to get more expensive. Unless Optimus starts fulfilling through amazon or we get a new water-cooling company up here that will carry Optimus your prolly going to have to pay to play if you really want optimus gear.
> 
> Lots of these carriers are also charging crazy customs brokerage fees now on top too of the duties and taxes so beware.!
> 
> My most recent import through UPS last week was $41 dollars in government charges and $66.50 in UPS brokerage Charges. LOL... Such a joke..


See my above post, I figured it out. Still have to pay duty and taxes plus 3% of both, but much cheaper than $46 USD to Canada.


----------



## acoustic

KedarWolf said:


> Is there anything that can be done about that? Can't afford $46+.


You bought a card that is $400 above reference MSRP, combining that with the most expensive block on the market, but you can't afford $46 in shipping? That's ridiculous.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> You bought a card that is $400 above reference MSRP, combining that with the most expensive block on the market, but you can't afford $46 in shipping? That's ridiculous.


Thats Canadian spend extra on x and save on x. Shipping in canada is expensive but there way around it. I do international window shopping before i buy.


----------



## KedarWolf

Section31 said:


> Thats Canadian spend extra on x and save on x. Shipping in canada is expensive but there way around it. I do international window shopping before i buy.


I had a limited budget for my PC upgrades. Expensive upgrades, yes, but now my cash reserve is low again. I don't have unlimited funds for PC parts.


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> I had a limited budget for my PC upgrades. Expensive upgrades, yes, but now my cash reserve is low again. I don't have unlimited funds for PC parts.


We all have limited budgets just some of us don’t say. Hence why i won’t buy 4090 strix at 2800cad pre taxes.


----------



## arvinz

You would think with all the Canadian activity in this thread that Optimus would open up a distributor up here 

I'm no different than some of you guys who love to have the top of line components; I spent about a year and half building and researching my watercooling build so I'm very meticulous about things. And yes, I'm guilty of overspending or paying for components that don't necessarily perform much better than a cheaper counterpart and I'm often buying for aesthetics (I'm a Design/Director in real life and I'm obsessed with clean/simple design).

That said, at some point you look down at the line and wonder why you need to go so far past it. Case in point AIB 4090 cards. I think there needs to be a particularly good argument to justify the extra cash it costs over not just the FE, but the TUF. Do the extra power phases allow for enough extra power to say "Ok, this is worth $700 more", or is it bragging rights really? It's certainly not the looks or the RGB; I personally think the TUF is better looking and of course the FE the best design out of all.

I suppose you have to ask yourself what your goal or purpose is to spend, in Canadian, over $3000 on a GPU when a $2000 version can do the same thing, especially when we're talking watercooling here with an Optimus block. I reckon the results will be within 1-5 degrees of each other.

Now, if you're going for Top 3Dmark scores and that's your thing, I totally get it.


----------



## KedarWolf

No shame in wanting the best-designed PCB with the best VRM and capacitors etc. I read up on it, and the Strix OC is well-designed.

If you can manage to get a Strix OC, I don't think buying shaming should be a thing.


----------



## Cobra26

Has any one used the Optimus Foundation cpu and also a GPU block (any brand is ok) + a MO-RA radiator?
I know the Foundation cpu block is one of the most restrictive blocks out there and the MO-RA is also pretty restrictive for a rad comparable with a regular cpu block i wonder even with TWO D5's it can handle this setup? Just asking before i actually want to order the block for my upcoming i9-13900K with a RTX 4080 16gb or RTX 4090 or an AMD RX 7000 gpu.


----------



## Section31

Cobra26 said:


> Has any one used the Optimus Foundation cpu and also a GPU block (any brand is ok) + a MO-RA radiator?
> I know the Foundation cpu block is one of the most restrictive blocks out there and the MO-RA is also pretty restrictive for a rad comparable with a regular cpu block i wonder even with TWO D5's it can handle this setup? Just asking before i actually want to order the block for my upcoming i9-13900K with a RTX 4080 16gb or RTX 4090 or an AMD RX 7000 gpu.


Yes people have. Two d5’s should be enough. We would reccomend you use koolance d5 with higher head flow to have higher flow rate.


----------



## KedarWolf

@Optimus WC 

What is the height, length and width of the Strix 4090 block and what is the height, length and width of the Strix 3090 block?

I ask because I own a Strix 3090 block and want to compare it to the Strix 4090 block to make sure my case doesn't cramp the power connecter.


----------



## arvinz

KedarWolf said:


> @Optimus WC
> 
> What is the height, length and width of the Strix 4090 block and what is the height, length and width of the Strix 3090 block?
> 
> I ask because I own a Strix 3090 block and want to compare it to the Strix 4090 block to make sure my case doesn't cramp the power connecter.


Measurements of the 4090 Strix block are on their site:









Signature 4090 Strix/TUF GPU Waterblock


IMPORTANT SHIPPING INFORMATION: Orders 11/15/22: Ship November and through December 2022 Orders 11/16/22: Ship January 2023 The highest performance GPU waterblock ever created, exclusively for the NVIDIA 4090 GPU. Compatible with: ASUS Strix 4090 OC Edition ASUS Strix 4090 ASUS TUF 4090 OC...




optimuspc.com





Scroll down there's a diagram there with measurements.


----------



## KedarWolf

arvinz said:


> Measurements of the 4090 Strix block are on their site:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Signature 4090 Strix/TUF GPU Waterblock
> 
> 
> IMPORTANT SHIPPING INFORMATION: Orders 11/15/22: Ship November and through December 2022 Orders 11/16/22: Ship January 2023 The highest performance GPU waterblock ever created, exclusively for the NVIDIA 4090 GPU. Compatible with: ASUS Strix 4090 OC Edition ASUS Strix 4090 ASUS TUF 4090 OC...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> optimuspc.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scroll down there's a diagram there with measurements.


132mm vs 123mm for the 3090 block for the height.


----------



## asdf893

I just noticed the 4090 email signup on the optimus page. How late am i?


----------



## Optimus WC

So, the email signup will be an email blast, we're not doing preorders yet, or a reserve system yet. We want to make sure it all works right and avoid the issues from last time. 

For FE vs Strix, much easier to get our hands on the partner cards, same as last time. We still plan on doing the FE next. 

Canada: does PPCs ship do CA shipping? They're now stocking a lot more product. Shipping is calculated automatically based on weight, etc. So not much we can do about that, unfortunately, though it'd be great if there was an easier system.


----------



## asdf893

Section31 said:


> Yes people have. Two d5’s should be enough. We would reccomend you use koolance d5 with higher head flow to have higher flow rate.


koolance makes d5 pumps? link?


----------



## Avacado

asdf893 said:


> koolance makes d5 pumps? link?








Search results for: 'koolance d5'


Your best source on the Net for cutting edge computer modification hardware! Performance-PCs.com Store Performance PC's, Inc. PPCS




www.performance-pcs.com





Not in stock though.


----------



## ChrisLB

Optimus WC said:


> _"I wish this cerakote stuff would go away and they just went back to nickel plated "_
> 
> Why?
> 
> Also, we can make the block the same height as before, it'll work.


People just don't trust your cerakote finish yet. That's why.

In addition to my own bad experience with your cerakote flaking off one of my Kingpin 3090 water blocks, I know four other people through the EVGA forums who claim to have the same issue with the coating coming off of their KP 3090 blocks. Its happened on both black and white KP 3090 blocks. The people with the white KP 3090 blocks have white flakes in their loop. The people with black KP 3090 blocks have black flakes in their loop. Its very clearly visible on some of the blocks where their coating is coming off. It doesn't seem to be linked to one particular brand of coolant either, so its not some weird chemical reaction causing it.

I know you have offered to have customers send their blocks back in to get recoated, but I don't know how long the turn around time would be between shipping and getting the block stripped and recoated at the factory. With all of the delays in the KP 3090 blocks, I also don't trust Optimus to have it stripped and re coated in a timely manner and I don't trust the process to be done correctly the second time since multiple KP 3090 block customers have had the issue with the coating flaking off. This issue shouldn't he happening to multiple customers on a $600 GPU water block.

Maybe there were some bad batches of the cerakote that caused the issue with the KP 3090 blocks and the rest of your blocks are fine. Maybe the parts weren't properly cleaned and prepped before the finish was applied. Maybe it was too humid or the wrong temperature when the finish was applied. Maybe the cerakote wasn't properly mixed before application. The Optimus KP 3090 blocks were your first blocks coated with cerakote according to some of your social media posts. Since they were the initial experience with that finish, it could have been mistakes in application due to it being a new process.

Personally, I'm probably going to go with one of five local companies that have a ton of experience with cerakote finishes to strip and re cerakote my blocks because I don't trust Optimus to do it correctly the second time and I don't trust Optimus to have a quick turn around time if I ship my blocks back in to redo cerakote finish.


----------



## Optimus WC

ChrisLB said:


> People just don't trust your cerakote finish yet. That's why.
> 
> In addition to my own bad experience with your cerakote flaking off one of my Kingpin 3090 water blocks, I know four other people through the EVGA forums who claim to have the same issue with the coating coming off of their KP 3090 blocks. Its happened on both black and white KP 3090 blocks. The people with the white KP 3090 blocks have white flakes in their loop. The people with black KP 3090 blocks have black flakes in their loop. Its very clearly visible on some of the blocks where their coating is coming off. It doesn't seem to be linked to one particular brand of coolant either, so its not some weird chemical reaction causing it.
> 
> I know you have offered to have customers send their blocks back in to get recoated, but I don't know how long the turn around time would be between shipping and getting the block stripped and recoated at the factory. With all of the delays in the KP 3090 blocks, I also don't trust Optimus to have it stripped and re coated in a timely manner and I don't trust the process to be done correctly the second time since multiple KP 3090 block customers have had the issue with the coating flaking off. This issue shouldn't he happening to multiple customers on a $600 GPU water block.
> 
> Maybe there were some bad batches of the cerakote that caused the issue with the KP 3090 blocks and the rest of your blocks are fine. Maybe the parts weren't properly cleaned and prepped before the finish was applied. Maybe it was too humid or the wrong temperature when the finish was applied. Maybe the cerakote wasn't properly mixed before application. The Optimus KP 3090 blocks were your first blocks coated with cerakote according to some of your social media posts. Since they were the initial experience with that finish, it could have been mistakes in application due to it being a new process.
> 
> Personally, I'm probably going to go with one of five local companies that have a ton of experience with cerakote finishes to strip and re cerakote my blocks because I don't trust Optimus to do it correctly the second time and I don't trust Optimus to have a quick turn around time if I ship my blocks back in to redo cerakote finish.


Definitely valid concerns. It sounds like, yes, you did have very first production models. In the beginning, I believe the issue you had was something to do with "touching up" the paint, which, if not heated in the proper way, won't adhere with the same strength to the cerakote itself. It could have been only a few days of doing this in the incorrect method, but that means a number of blocks went out that could have this issues. Chances are, if the flakes come off, then that's the end of it -- the cerakote underneath is cured to be super strong. 

We haven't had any reports of this on anything other than the very earliest KP blocks. We've also since hired pro painter to do everything with Cerakote, so quality is tops now. 

As for nickel vs cerakote, ceramics will always win. Nickel is a metal, and it will inherently have a reaction with the metals in the loop. The ideal is to have no metals in a loop (no exposed metals, that is). Because of radiators these days, they have issues with copper ions leaching into the loops -- this isn't just an optimus issue, but literally every company is seeing more of this (mostly seen on GPUs because those are the products with the largest areas visible in a loop). While Cerakote wasn't perfect at launch, nickel will never be perfect because of the inherent issues with metals. Also, we don't control our nickel, it's still something that has to be done outside. So with Cerakote, now it's something we can do in-house which makes us unique, and we can control quality entirely.


----------



## bearsdidit

Cobra26 said:


> Has any one used the Optimus Foundation cpu and also a GPU block (any brand is ok) + a MO-RA radiator?
> I know the Foundation cpu block is one of the most restrictive blocks out there and the MO-RA is also pretty restrictive for a rad comparable with a regular cpu block i wonder even with TWO D5's it can handle this setup? Just asking before i actually want to order the block for my upcoming i9-13900K with a RTX 4080 16gb or RTX 4090 or an AMD RX 7000 gpu.


I’m running a foundation + Optimus gpu block with a Mora and my flow rates are pretty horrible. However, I do have two sets of low flow QDCs and a decent amount of 90 degree fittings.

For reference, I’ve got a total of 3 x d5 pumps with a flow rate of 70 liters per hour with all pumps running at 40%. I’ve tried running at a higher percentage but not real change in temps. I average less than 3c for my air/water delta.


----------



## sakete

bearsdidit said:


> I’m running a foundation + Optimus gpu block with a Mora and my flow rates are pretty horrible. However, I do have two sets of low flow QDCs and a decent amount of 90 degree fittings.
> 
> For reference, I’ve got a total of 3 x d5 pumps with a flow rate of 70 liters per hour with all pumps running at 40%. I’ve tried running at a higher percentage but not real change in temps. I average less than 3c for my air/water delta.


Those QDCs will kill it for sure. I use a bunch in my loop as well, though mine are of the high flow variety (Koolance QD3H).


----------



## bearsdidit

sakete said:


> Those QDCs will kill it for sure. I use a bunch in my loop as well, though mine are of the high flow variety (Koolance QD3H).


I’ve read great things about the QD3H but can’t bring myself to spent another $120+ on fittings for a slightly higher flow rate. I’ve definitely surpassed the point of diminishing returns.


----------



## mattxx88

Optimus WC said:


> So with Cerakote, now it's something we can do in-house which makes us unique, and *we can control quality entirely*.


will we Europeans also be able to experience this quality directly someday? 😅


----------



## Cobra26

bearsdidit said:


> I’m running a foundation + Optimus gpu block with a Mora and my flow rates are pretty horrible. However, I do have two sets of low flow QDCs and a decent amount of 90 degree fittings.
> 
> For reference, I’ve got a total of 3 x d5 pumps with a flow rate of 70 liters per hour with all pumps running at 40%. I’ve tried running at a higher percentage but not real change in temps. I average less than 3c for my air/water delta.


Thanks for the reply,

Man...so around 0.3 GPM thats even below the minimum of 0.5 GPM. So what exact type of QDC are you using ie name + type?
Yeah numerous 90 degree can lower the flow rate by a good amount.
Plus the Optimus cpu and gpu blocks are very restrictive as well pretty crazy...
Yet even at 0.3 GPM as long as it takes away the heat it should be good.

I will use two pairs of Koolance QDC4's the most high flow of QDC out there.
Two D5's
With TWO Aquacomputer AMS 840 full copper rads (12 x 140mm rad space in total)
Maybe one 90 degree fitting but probably around four 45 degree fittings
Guess i need more research on what cpu and gpu block to get preferable blocks that aren't to restrictive.


----------



## Cobra26

Section31 said:


> Yes people have. Two d5’s should be enough. We would reccomend you use koolance d5 with higher head flow to have higher flow rate.


Thanks for the reply,

I already have a Aquacomputer ULTITOP dual D5. This should be good enough i hope...
Time will tell i will do a test setup once i have everything and check flow numbers.


----------



## sakete

With a restrictive loop, is it better to get a pump with high flow, or high head pressure?


----------



## Cobra26

sakete said:


> With a restrictive loop, is it better to get a pump with high flow, or high head pressure?


Generally high head pressure pump(s) with really restrictive setups like a DCC pump but moves less water then a D5. DCC tends to be less reliable then a D5 pump and the sound it makes is louder then a D5 but thats subjective imo. Instead using a DCC i would take the path of two D5 pumps.


----------



## bearsdidit

Cobra26 said:


> Thanks for the reply,
> 
> Man...so around 0.3 GPM thats even below the minimum of 0.5 GPM. So what exact type of QDC are you using ie name + type?
> Yeah numerous 90 degree can lower the flow rate by a good amount.
> Plus the Optimus cpu and gpu blocks are very restrictive as well pretty crazy...
> Yet even at 0.3 GPM as long as it takes away the heat it should be good.
> 
> I will use two pairs of Koolance QDC4's the most high flow of QDC out there.
> Two D5's
> With TWO Aquacomputer AMS 840 full copper rads (12 x 140mm rad space in total)
> Maybe one 90 degree fitting but probably around four 45 degree fittings
> Guess i need more research on what cpu and gpu block to get preferable blocks that aren't to restrictive.


I'm currently using 4 sets of Alphacool Eiszapfen (2 pairs).


----------



## sakete

Cobra26 said:


> Generally high head pressure pump(s) with really restrictive setups like a DCC pump but moves less water then a D5. DCC tends to be less reliable then a D5 pump and the sound it makes is louder then a D5 but thats subjective imo. Instead using a DCC i would take the path of two D5 pumps.


Right, I have two D5s today. But I might consider the Koolance high flow + high pressure pumps. Need to check how much pressure those provide compared to DDC pumps.


----------



## Cobra26

sakete said:


> Right, I have two D5s today. But I might consider the Koolance high flow + high pressure pumps. Need to check how much pressure those provide compared to DDC pumps.


The Koolance QDC4 are indeed high flow ive been researching a lot on quick release here is a chart for how restrictive these QDC4 are (do know these are 1/2 x 3/4 size)










As you can see *pretty close to a regular straight barb fitting* which is great the QDC3 are a bit more restrictive. This is why i went with the QDC4 they are bulky tho but i rather have high flow then a restrictive QD! Plus its a external loop build so who cares about bulky QD's!

If you buy the Koolance QDC4 *DO NOT BUY THE BLACK ONES* they will oxidize inside and chip of the coating. Instead get the regular silver QDC4 they don't suffer from these issues at all!!


----------



## Cobra26

bearsdidit said:


> I'm currently using 4 sets of Alphacool Eiszapfen (2 pairs).


4 sets of highly restrictive Alphacool QD's i think you have your answer with the low flow rate...
You might if this is an issue for you with flow consider the Koolance QDC4 which is the best QD for high flow setups.


----------



## sakete

Cobra26 said:


> The Koolance QDC4 are indeed high flow ive been researching a lot on quick release here is a chart for how restrictive these QDC4 are (do know these are 1/2 x 3/4 size)
> 
> View attachment 2576888
> 
> 
> As you can see *pretty close to a regular straight barb fitting* which is great the QDC3 are a bit more restrictive. This is why i went with the QDC4 they are bulky tho but i rather have high flow then a restrictive QD!
> 
> If you buy the Koolance QDC4 *DO NOT BUY THE BLACK ONES* they will oxidize inside and chip of the coating. Instead get the regular silver QDC4 they don't suffer from these issues at all!!


So this is the QDC3, but I don't see the QDC3H. The QD4 is from their 4th gen line-up, whereas the QD3H is from their 5th gen line-up.

On the Koolance website though, it does appear that the QD4 has a lower pressure drop than the QD3H. They only show a graph and not the underlying data, but at roughly 10LPM the QD4 has a 0.8psi pressure drop, whereas the QD3H at 10LPM has a 2.5psi pressure drop.

However, if you need 3/8 / 10mm fittings, you're stuck with the QD3H, as is the case for me. And I'm not going to larger tubing as I'd then need to replace ALL my fittings  So I'll just need to get better pumps. I currently already have 2 D5 pumps though, one runs at 3500 RPM, the other at 3700 RPM, and my flow rate in my loop is roughly 3LPM at the moment. That includes 1x360 and 1x480 rad, AM4 Foundation Block and 3080 Optimus block.


----------



## Cobra26

sakete said:


> So this is the QDC3, but I don't see the QDC3H. The QD4 is from their 4th gen line-up, whereas the QD3H is from their 5th gen line-up.
> 
> On the Koolance website though, it does appear that the QD4 has a lower pressure drop than the QD3H. They only show a graph and not the underlying data, but at roughly 10LPM the QD4 has a 0.8psi pressure drop, whereas the QD3H at 10LPM has a 2.5psi pressure drop.
> 
> However, if you need 3/8 / 10mm fittings, you're stuck with the QD3H, as is the case for me. And I'm not going to larger tubing as I'd then need to replace ALL my fittings  So I'll just need to get better pumps. I currently already have 2 D5 pumps though, one runs at 3500 RPM, the other at 3700 RPM, and my flow rate in my loop is roughly 3LPM at the moment. That includes 1x360 and 1x480 rad, AM4 Foundation Block and 3080 Optimus block.


Im stuck with the QDC4 since like you i use a particular size fittings (1/2 x 3/4).
I checked the 5th gen and even the 6th but none have what i need. But for you def do some research which ones gives the best flow rate.

PS 3LPM = 0.8GPM that's not bad at all and thats with ALL Foundation brand blocks cpu + gpu pretty good flow, you are close to what is considered the optimal flow of 1GPM. Even if you get the QDC and get 0.6 or 0.5GPM its all good. If below that you might wanna get a 3th D5 pump...This is the better option IMO even if 1 D5 fails you still have 2 D5's. Yes one good DCC with head pressure can take your setup easy but seeing the failure rate vs D5 im cautious to go with a DCC. However enough people have good experiences with DCC long term i would do a search on reliability DCC vs D5. For me the issue are my two AMS 840 rads which are pretty restrictive so with already restrictive Foundation cpu block this can be an issue for me. Looking elsewhere for less restrictive blocks unless they release a more "high flow" versions of their wonderful blocks...


----------



## sakete

Cobra26 said:


> Im stuck with the QDC4 since like you i use a particular size fittings (1/2 x 3/4).
> I checked the 5th gen and even the 6th but none have what i need. But for you def do some research which ones gives the best flow rate.
> 
> PS 3LPM = 0.8GPM that's not bad at all and thats with ALL Foundation brand blocks cpu + gpu pretty good flow, you are close to what is considered the optimal flow of 1GPM. Even if you get the QDC and get 0.6 or 0.5GPM its all good. If below that you might wanna get a 3th D5 pump...This is the better option IMO even if 1 D5 fails you still have 2 D5's. Yes one good DCC with head pressure can take your setup easy but seeing the failure rate vs D5 im cautious to go with a DCC. However enough people have good experiences with DCC long term i would do a search on reliability DCC vs D5. For me the issue are my two AMS 840 rads which are pretty restrictive so with already restrictive Foundation cpu block this can be an issue for me. Looking elsewhere for less restrictive blocks unless they release a more "high flow" versions of their wonderful blocks...


Oh, this flow is with 3 sets of QD3H's in my loop already  3 sets of male > female.


----------



## bearsdidit

Cobra26 said:


> 4 sets of highly restrictive Alphacool QD's i think you have your answer with the low flow rate...
> You might if this is an issue for you with flow consider the Koolance QDC4 which is the best QD for high flow setups.


My low flow rate bothers me but not enough to replace them. 😂 If I had horrible temp issues, I’d consider it but my cooling performance is spot on.


----------



## KedarWolf

@Optimus WC 

Welp, I've always used the original AMD Foundation mounting kit, but it won't work with my AM5 board.

I found out when trying to set up my new build tonight.

I did a ticket to get one. My order for a new AMD Foundation waterblock is still unfulfilled and hasn't shipped yet. 

Can you look into why the new order is delayed? @Optimus WC


----------



## originxt

Apparently Watercool is designing their Fe block similar to ek for 30 series in that the ports are on the side. Cant wait for whoever releases their block first. I got my fe card coming in on tuesday so pretty hyped.


----------



## Section31

Cobra26 said:


> Im stuck with the QDC4 since like you i use a particular size fittings (1/2 x 3/4).
> I checked the 5th gen and even the 6th but none have what i need. But for you def do some research which ones gives the best flow rate.
> 
> PS 3LPM = 0.8GPM that's not bad at all and thats with ALL Foundation brand blocks cpu + gpu pretty good flow, you are close to what is considered the optimal flow of 1GPM. Even if you get the QDC and get 0.6 or 0.5GPM its all good. If below that you might wanna get a 3th D5 pump...This is the better option IMO even if 1 D5 fails you still have 2 D5's. Yes one good DCC with head pressure can take your setup easy but seeing the failure rate vs D5 im cautious to go with a DCC. However enough people have good experiences with DCC long term i would do a search on reliability DCC vs D5. For me the issue are my two AMS 840 rads which are pretty restrictive so with already restrictive Foundation cpu block this can be an issue for me. Looking elsewhere for less restrictive blocks unless they release a more "high flow" versions of their wonderful blocks...


I use qd4 but 3/8 end then add 3/8 male to g1/4 female adapter then add f-f adapter to get around tubing limitations. They have both npt and regular version. Add lot of length though


----------



## sakete

Well, that 13900K will be a beast to cool. I'm sticking to my 5950X for the foreseeable future until both AMD and Intel start making much more efficient processors. Just pushing more power to these CPUs to get higher performance is not a game I want to play anymore. My current setup already generates enough heat as it is.


----------



## originxt

sakete said:


> Well, that 13900K will be a beast to cool. I'm sticking to my 5950X for the foreseeable future until both AMD and Intel start making much more efficient processors. Just pushing more power to these CPUs to get higher performance is not a game I want to play anymore. My current setup already generates enough heat as it is.


10980xe and 4090, rip my room in the summertime. I'll bottleneck the 4090 with my current cpu but really want to know how bad it will be. 4k resolution.


----------



## Cobra26

originxt said:


> 10980xe and 4090, rip my room in the summertime. I'll bottleneck the 4090 with my current cpu but really want to know how bad it will be. 4k resolution.


Are you running your RTX 4090 at 70% power plan? If not it can reduce the wattage from 450+ to around 310 - 330 watt! Best of all with maybe 5% to 10% less fps so basically within stock performance. Overclocking the RTX 4090 is an absolute waste.


----------



## Cobra26

Section31 said:


> I use qd4 but 3/8 end then add 3/8 male to g1/4 female adapter then add f-f adapter to get around tubing limitations. They have both npt and regular version. Add lot of length though


I see i already have the QDC4 (2 pairs) i shouldnt have to much issue with flow if i plan everything correctly, its a external setup anyway so bulky QDC4 i dont mind it.


----------



## sakete

Cobra26 said:


> Are you running your RTX 4090 at 70% power plan? If not it can reduce the wattage from 450+ to around 310 - 330 watt! Best of all with maybe 5% to 10% less fps so basically within stock performance. Overclocking the RTX 4090 is an absolute waste.


Yeah this is definitely the way to go with the 4090. For the 2 days that I owned one I ran it at 60% and was getting lower temps than my 3080, at much higher performance. Really good efficiency on that 4090. I then decided I don't need to own a $2K GPU, lol. If the 4080 16GB has similar efficiency, I might be tempted, as my 3080 can run really hot and dumps a lot of heat in my room.


----------



## originxt

sakete said:


> Yeah this is definitely the way to go with the 4090. For the 2 days that I owned one I ran it at 60% and was getting lower temps than my 3080, at much higher performance. Really good efficiency on that 4090. I then decided I don't need to own a $2K GPU, lol. If the 4080 16GB has similar efficiency, I might be tempted, as my 3080 can run really hot and dumps a lot of heat in my room.





Cobra26 said:


> Are you running your RTX 4090 at 70% power plan? If not it can reduce the wattage from 450+ to around 310 - 330 watt! Best of all with maybe 5% to 10% less fps so basically within stock performance. Overclocking the RTX 4090 is an absolute waste.


That's kind of the plan after my initial fun of benchmarking. 3090 was ridiculously hot and I didn't want to have to turn on central air just to cool my room lol. Similar for the 4090 probably.


----------



## Biggu

Ended up picking up my Strix today and my god this is massive. 

I also took off the optimus block from my 3090 and im very pleased in its condition with the nickle plating. Yea sure the gasket has discolored a bit but ive got spares though now they are useless to me since I wont be reusing this block.


http://imgur.com/Pr9SOxR


----------



## Cobra26

Biggu said:


> Ended up picking up my Strix today and my god this is massive.
> 
> I also took off the optimus block from my 3090 and im very pleased in its condition with the nickle plating. Yea sure the gasket has discolored a bit but ive got spares though now they are useless to me since I wont be reusing this block.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Pr9SOxR


Good looking block and clean man! How long did you used it and what coolant did you used?


----------



## Biggu

Cobra26 said:


> Good looking block and clean man! How long did you used it and what coolant did you used?


I got it installed june of 2021 so a year and a few months. I just use distilled water with inhibitor and biocide as the coolant on the system.


----------



## Kashtan

GLuE said:


> mo-ra3


I asked not for how to dissipate heat, but how to remove it, the ambassador of Optimus understood me correctly and answered, for which I thank him.
But I will answer you. I have Mo-Ra 3. With four Noctua A20. And six more radiators. Among which there are more productive than Mo-Ra 3.


----------



## Titanmode0427

I just installed a optimus block on my 3090 strix. This thing is amazing. I'm getting 40c on full load lmao


----------



## bearsdidit

Titanmode0427 said:


> I just installed a optimus block on my 3090 strix. This thing is amazing. I'm getting 40c on full load lmao


It’s an absolute beast of a block. What did you use to test the card?


----------



## Titanmode0427

bearsdidit said:


> It’s an absolute beast of a block. What did you use to test the card?


Furmark and DCS world


----------



## bearsdidit

Titanmode0427 said:


> Furmark and DCS world


Do you have a port royal score yet? Will run furmark to try and get a max core temp number.


----------



## Titanmode0427

bearsdidit said:


> Do you have a port royal score yet? Will run furmark to try and get a max core temp number.



I'm going to really push it over the next few days. I had a crazy weekend cleaning my loop and installing metal tubes


----------



## bearsdidit

Titanmode0427 said:


> I'm going to really push it over the next few days. I had a crazy weekend cleaning my loop and installing metal tubes


Nice work!


----------



## Veii

@Optimus WC Do you guys still take custom orders. Literally custom ?
I have some wishes on your anodizing and questions on some of the coating.
Maybe we can work something out.
Current cart doesn't look small, but its a slight hassle to decide based on your offerings and (website) out-of-stock , but mobile (in stock, just not everything)


Optimus WC said:


> We haven't had any reports of this on anything other than the very earliest KP blocks. We've also since hired pro painter to do everything with Cerakote, so quality is tops now.
> 
> As for nickel vs cerakote, ceramics will always win. Nickel is a metal, and it will inherently have a reaction with the metals in the loop. The ideal is to have no metals in a loop (no exposed metals, that is).


Especially for this.
Lucky owner of a white + nickel block, and target fluid is a nanofloid.

Coatings would focus more towards design, but i'd like to talk with you first a bit.
Happy on res-choice, but debating on the fittings choice for 20 fittings and 6-8 caps. Plating issue (just doesn't fit color wise) 
// Fluid is not aggressive , well 2nd loop is but might drop out as color choice doesnt fit

Would you have any possibility to cerakote fittings and caps ?
Does it even stick on nickel plating outside ?

Alternatively thinking to re'anodize myself the pump-res bottom and the cap-fittings, depends. If your painter is not very busy, a custom order makes more sense 


Veii said:


> Current cart doesn't look small, but its a slight hassle to decide based on your offerings


Last shipment to Austria was a bit expensive, hence i mention this.
Would love to go with your options, but some visuals dont fit into the showcase build ~ even if we adapt and recolor a lot already. Might end up only with the tube+res
Asking to know the range of options you currently can supply, on custom orders

EDIT:
Last question
Can you provide me pictures of the nickel plated hardtube-caps ?
I see it changes color based on light's kelvin-temp.
Sometimes they are silverish, other times they are darker more brass like.

Build needs brass/gold looking fittings + pump housing, or purely white 
Potentially purely brass on the fittings could work, but it depends if you can make brass pump bottoms instead of anodized ones
Surely cerakote white will fit better.


----------



## RichKnecht

Optimus WC said:


> We have. It works and there can be an improvement depending on how hard you push your system and how your Intel 12900k is shaped (IHS are somewhat variable). We will be offering an Intel backplate (a very strong one) in the future that will be compatible with previous blocks.


Any news on that backplate? I bought the EK version and the holes in the backplate are too large for the hold down screws.


----------



## cx-ray

The V2 knurled knobs are M4 threaded. For mounting the backplate and block you can use M4 screws of the correct length or cut them to size. Insert screws from the back of your motherboard, secure backplate with nuts and a nylon washer from the top side, and mount V2 block with the original knobs.

I'm not sure how it will work out with the EK backplate. Personally, I used the standard LGA 1700 backplate from Watercool. I pressed out the accompanied studs of the plate and used M4 screws described as above.


----------



## RichKnecht

cx-ray said:


> The V2 knurled knobs are M4 threaded. For mounting the backplate and block you can use M4 screws of the correct length or cut them to size. Insert screws from the back of your motherboard, secure backplate with nuts and a nylon washer from the top side, and mount V2 block with the original knobs.
> 
> I'm not sure how it will work out with the EK backplate. Personally, I used the standard LGA 1700 backplate from Watercool. I pressed out the accompanied studs of the plate and used M4 screws described as above.


Thanks for this. M4 screws go through the EK backplate without drilling it out. Should work just fine.


----------



## asdf893

Has anyone used the Heatkiller "Heavy" backplate with sigv2 block?


----------



## NorySS

yes, I do.
Heavy plate + 4mm * 30mm long hex screws thru the rear. Works fine for me with the later knurled knobs that didnt use springs.

Someone else that I sent this setup to commented that maybe 35mm screws would work better for his setup that came with springs.


----------



## chibi

Titanmode0427 said:


> I'm going to really push it over the next few days. I had a crazy weekend cleaning my loop and installing metal tubes


I like your anti sag pillar


----------



## asdf893

While we're waiting for the Strix/Tuf blocks to come out... is it worth getting a Strix over a Tuf 4090? Seems like there's such little variance, if any, in gaming and OC scores.


----------



## acoustic

asdf893 said:


> While we're waiting for the Strix/Tuf blocks to come out... is it worth getting a Strix over a Tuf 4090? Seems like there's such little variance, if any, in gaming and OC scores.


I don't think so. Same power limit afaik


----------



## RichKnecht

NorySS said:


> yes, I do.
> Heavy plate + 4mm * 30mm long hex screws thru the rear. Works fine for me with the later knurled knobs that didnt use springs.
> 
> Someone else that I sent this setup to commented that maybe 35mm screws would work better for his setup that came with springs.
> View attachment 2581577
> 
> View attachment 2581578
> 
> View attachment 2581581


Did you remove the Orem backplate or is it still in place under the heat killer plate?


----------



## Biggu

acoustic said:


> I don't think so. Same power limit afaik


Agreed, I did get the strix mainly because it was what was in stock. I gotta say the strix 4090 is so ugly in comparison to the 3090.


----------



## NorySS

RichKnecht said:


> Did you remove the Orem backplate or is it still in place under the heat killer plate?


yes the WC heavy backplates replaces the stock/oem backplate for the ILM. 
I perfer it that way theres no metal on metal shifting/contact.


----------



## yaohanzex

Hey guys, anyone willing to share their strix/tuf 4090 block order number and order confirmation time? Thank you.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

8194, who all is ahead of me?


----------



## yaohanzex

Edge0fsanity said:


> 8194, who all is ahead of me?


Thank you for sharing. I’m about 50 ahead of you. When is your order confirmed?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

yaohanzex said:


> Thank you for sharing. I’m about 50 ahead of you. When is your order confirmed?


email confirmation was 12:55pm CT


----------



## yaohanzex

Edge0fsanity said:


> email confirmation was 12:55pm CT


Mine is 9:31am pst. The sale number is not high at all.


----------



## asdf893

yaohanzex said:


> Hey guys, anyone willing to share their strix/tuf 4090 block order number and order confirmation time? Thank you.


Why didn't you start by sharing your order number and time


----------



## yaohanzex

asdf893 said:


> Why didn't you start by sharing your order number and time


I have shared. As a start I’m not sure whether anyone is willing to share. That’s why I didn’t include the info in my first post.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

yaohanzex said:


> Mine is 9:31am pst. The sale number is not high at all.


They must have had the email queue on a timer that sends them out based on when you signed up. I got the notification and ordered within minutes. Or did you get the link to order from somewhere ahead of that?


----------



## yaohanzex

Edge0fsanity said:


> They must have had the email queue on a timer that sends them out based on when you signed up. I got the notification and ordered within minutes. Or did you get the link to order from somewhere ahead of that?


My email notification came at the same time as their tweet. But their tweet has a link as well. The email can be delayed but the tweet won’t.


----------



## bomber91

number of sales doesn't matter
if the batch size is unknown
I ordered a waterblock from a German company 2 years ago in the first hours, and waited 107 days for it, from order to shipment
(not delivery)
sorry offtopic
8175 11:58 (CT)

for sure there will be guys in the topic who will get the block the fastest
unfortunately lately people get their own water block, take a couple of pictures and disappear
please share information about deltas, temperatures, etc.


----------



## yaohanzex

bomber91 said:


> number of sales doesn't matter
> if the batch size is unknown
> I ordered a waterblock from a German company 2 years ago in the first hours, and waited 107 days for it, from order to shipment
> (not delivery)
> sorry offtopic
> 8175 11:58 (CT)


Thank you for sharing. What you described is not as terrible as Optimus‘ 3090 Kingpin block. The earliest order was shipped out nearly four months after. And these orders were placed even before Optimus sent out the tweet that preorder was open.


----------



## Biggu

I'm 8150. I know I know I bitched about not going with Optimus again but I told my self first block actually available that's not EK im going with because I cant stand this card on air. As soon as the tweet came out I purchased it. I gotta say the block does look really good. I love that its not all acrylic like the last one.


----------



## yaohanzex

Biggu said:


> I'm 8150. I know I know I bitched about not going with Optimus again but I told my self first block actually available that's not EK im going with because I cant stand this card on air.


Thank you. When was your order confirmed? I‘m 5 ahead of you. And the order was confirmed on 9:31am pst.


----------



## Biggu

my order confirmation was at 12:33 EST or 9:33 PST. Might be nice to know what color options people ordered as well. I did the Nickle / Nickle.


----------



## yaohanzex

Biggu said:


> my order confirmation was at 12:33 EST or 9:33 PST. Might be nice to know what color options people ordered as well. I did the Nickle / Nickle.


I still remember what Optimus did with their KPE block. So I ordered the matte black version to avoid any potential delay.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Nickle/Black for me since it'll fit my build the best. Really like the Nickel/Nickel and Nickel/Silver options and would go with one of those if my build wasn't already planned out.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

yaohanzex said:


> I still remember what Optimus did with their KPE block. So I ordered the matte black version to avoid any potential delay.


I've owned every gpu block optimus makes, ftw3, strix, kpe. I'm a sucker for painfully long waits. Just hoping this one won't be as bad as it seems I missed the early window for orders.


----------



## asdf893

Edge0fsanity said:


> I've owned every gpu block optimus makes, ftw3, strix, kpe. I'm a sucker for painfully long waits. Just hoping this one won't be as bad as it seems I missed the early window for orders.


Had you ever considered having an acetal terminal made?


----------



## bomber91

yaohanzex said:


> What you described is not as terrible as Optimus‘ 3090 Kingpin block.


I remember, just at that time I was trying to order a optimus block for strix 3090 and every time I went to the site it was "sold out"

I hope this time the optimus will work out more successfully having the experience of past series (yes, I'm probably an optimist 😆still)
I already "have" rog strix 4090 out of stock edition I will never come to your country edition


----------



## asdf893

Anyone in US wanna trade their 4090 Strix for a 4090 FE?


----------



## straha20

*ORDER #OP8223*
November 15, 2022 02:08PM Central Standard Time

Nickel/Nickel


----------



## asdf893

straha20 said:


> *ORDER #OP8223*
> November 15, 2022 02:08PM
> 
> Nickel/Nickel


add the time zone?


----------



## yaohanzex

asdf893 said:


> Anyone in US wanna trade their 4090 Strix for a 4090 FE?


You probably won’t get this trade here. But seriously it’s lucky for you that you can save $400 by purchasing the FE card. FE card is much harder to get. I remember at launch day I managed to get two strix cards (canceled one afterwards) but couldn’t even put one FE card in cart.


----------



## asdf893

yaohanzex said:


> You probably won’t get this trade here. But seriously it’s lucky for you that you can save $400 by purchasing the FE card. FE card is much harder to get. I remember at launch day I managed to get two strix cards (canceled one afterwards) but couldn’t even put one FE card in cart.


I always liked the founders cooler and got lucky by scoring the 4090 FE. Then the reviews came out that the FE vs AIB cards had essentially no performance difference, which is sad. And now Optimus is teasing not making the 4090 Founders block which is even more sad.


----------



## yaohanzex

asdf893 said:


> I always liked the founders cooler and got lucky by scoring the 4090 FE. Then the reviews came out that the FE vs AIB cards had essentially no performance difference, which is sad. And now Optimus is teasing not making the 4090 Founders block which is even more sad.


Optimus is making a block for FE just not as soon as you expected. But EK has FE block in stock at performancepcs. Just get that if you don’t want to wait. The performance difference won’t be as dramatic as 30 series because 40 series is much more efficient.


----------



## yaohanzex

Now batch 1 preorder has ended. Based on you guys’ response here, I would estimate the first batch to be around 100. And batch 1 is expected to be fulfilled in two and a half months. That means 10 blocks per week is approximately Optimus’ expected fulfilling speed. This is just a rough estimate by the way.


----------



## asdf893

Anyone had theirs shipped today?


----------



## yaohanzex

asdf893 said:


> Anyone had theirs shipped today?


If I’m correct, could you please share your order number and order confirmation time? And you really shouldn’t expect any block shipping today because every time Optimus starts shipping something there will be a tweet with photos.


----------



## Thebc2

8172 here, got my confirmation at 12:52 eastern.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Spin Cykle

3 business days and no reply from support. Just remember, they only want your money. Once they get it, good luck.


----------



## yaohanzex

Shipping label has been created for the block. Anyone else got an email?


----------



## Shawnb99

Wow you mean Optimus isn’t ****ting the bed this Gen and actually have it together? I can’t believe it.


----------



## yaohanzex

Shawnb99 said:


> Wow you mean Optimus isn’t ****ting the bed this Gen and actually have it together? I can’t believe it.


Well, it has to start somewhere. It will be sad to see a brand with such high quality product disappear because of horrible reputation. To be honest the level of CNC machine used for Optimus block is unseen in other brands.


----------



## Shawnb99

yaohanzex said:


> Well, it has to start somewhere. It will be sad to see a brand with such high quality product disappear because of horrible reputation. To be honest the level of CNC machine used for Optimus block is unseen in other brands.



If the brand dies it’ll be because of their own incompetence which is the reason for the bad rep.
It would suck to see them go but if they do they would only have themselves to blame.


----------



## yaohanzex

Shawnb99 said:


> If the brand dies it’ll be because of their own incompetence which is the reason for the bad rep.
> It would suck to see them go but if they do they would only have themselves to blame.


Judging by the order number, Optimus didn’t sell that many products in the past six months. So it’s impossible to hire more people. Then you really can’t expect the same customer service from Optimus as that from EK. But the production has genuinely improved, this time their tweet can at least show more than one block ready for shipping.


----------



## Shawnb99

yaohanzex said:


> Judging by the order number, Optimus didn’t sell that many products in the past six months. So it’s impossible to hire more people. Then you really can’t expect the same customer service from Optimus as that from EK. But the production has genuinely improved, this time their tweet can at least show more than one block ready for shipping.


Ok sure that explains the last 6 months. How do you explain the 3 years before that? And blame Covid cause they had the same issues well before it hit.

They have had these issues from the start and we’ve offered hundreds of suggestions but they refused to listen, repeat the same tired excuses then pull the same stunts again. 

As for EK CS, they suck and Optimus is miles ahead of them.


----------



## yaohanzex

That’s true. If Optimus isn’t a side gig for its main company, it would die long ago.


----------



## Biggu

yaohanzex said:


> Shipping label has been created for the block. Anyone else got an email?


Nothing here yet. black/ nickle probably going out first considering they could do the black the same time as the inner blocks.


----------



## yaohanzex

Biggu said:


> Nothing here yet. black/ nickle probably going out first considering they could do the black the same time as the inner blocks.


That’s not true this time because they clearly have multiple color blocks ready for shipping based on their latest tweet.


----------



## Shawnb99

yaohanzex said:


> That’s not true this time because they clearly have multiple color blocks ready for shipping based on their latest tweet.


Optimus has their **** together? Did hell freeze over and no one tell me?


----------



## asdf893

Matte Black Ceramic / Nickel here and no confirmation yet. I got my confirmation at 9:35am PT so I thought I was one of the first to place my order.


----------



## asdf893

asdf893 said:


> Matte Black Ceramic / Nickel here and no confirmation yet. I got my confirmation at 9:35am PT so I thought I was one of the first to place my order.


Just got my tracking number.


----------



## Section31

yaohanzex said:


> Well, it has to start somewhere. It will be sad to see a brand with such high quality product disappear because of horrible reputation. To be honest the level of CNC machine used for Optimus block is unseen in other brands.


It’s Optimus you know what good and bad about them. Me and Shawnb99 were among it earliest supporters and even im not 100% sure buying there stuff for upcoming generations and beyond.

Though i really hope they can actually release there other in development products thats no where to be seen yet like those extenders and 90 adapters fittings.


----------



## Section31

asdf893 said:


> Just got my tracking number.


Enjoy tell us the results. This generation not 100% sure im getting. 

Thankfully no GPU yet (won’t matter as im on vacation) but too many side issues - need new PSU (seasonic vertex), cable (titan rigs no longer doing mdpc-x atm), and then the gpu/cpu block situation.


----------



## KedarWolf

My Optimus Strix 3090 block was a beast. Can't wait until I can order a Strix 4090 block.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> I'm 8150. I know I know I bitched about not going with Optimus again but I told my self first block actually available that's not EK im going with because I cant stand this card on air. As soon as the tweet came out I purchased it. I gotta say the block does look really good. I love that its not all acrylic like the last one.


It will be top perfomer i wouldn’t worry. Optimus had good start since there last block was top performer. If there’s better block can replace then


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> My Optimus Strix 3090 block was a beast. Can't wait until I can order a Strix 4090 block.


I think it won’t disappoint. Optimus never has disappointed on performance. High quality product.

I will see if/when i get 4090 (fe or strix/tuf) then decide from there. Among stuff to figure when i get back from vacation. First up is getting an seasonic vertex 1200watt and getting an custom cable made then gpu then block. 

Very limited what i can do here on information gathering/shopping. Though if really good deal can’t miss appears here on 4090 and seasonic vertex here i may get from here and figure way to bring an gpu/psu. Doubtful though.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Ok sure that explains the last 6 months. How do you explain the 3 years before that? And blame Covid cause they had the same issues well before it hit.
> 
> They have had these issues from the start and we’ve offered hundreds of suggestions but they refused to listen, repeat the same tired excuses then pull the same stunts again.
> 
> As for EK CS, they suck and Optimus is miles ahead of them.


The whole water cooling industry in an slump. Really don’t know who going to survive and how badly effected r&d is. Ekwb layed off lot of staff so others who knows effect.


----------



## yaohanzex

The build starts tonight.


----------



## chibi

4000 series optimus blocks look great. Much nicer than the full acrylic top from previous gen.


----------



## straha20

chibi said:


> 4000 series optimus blocks look great. Much nicer than the full acrylic top from previous gen.


I don't know...I am kind of missing the full acrylic on the new blocks...


----------



## KedarWolf

chibi said:


> 4000 series optimus blocks look great. Much nicer than the full acrylic top from previous gen.


I love the new black block.


----------



## arvinz

KedarWolf said:


> I love the new black block.


I tend to agree. Love the clean look. No exposed block screws as well which is a nice touch. In the leaked images up until the preorders, it was looking the same as the Absolute block but I think they knocked it out of the park with this design. I'm glad the pcb isn't visible...it's an eyesore.


----------



## Optimus WC

straha20 said:


> I don't know...I am kind of missing the full acrylic on the new blocks...


You'll want the new block when you see it in person, to us it really makes the last gen seem, well, last gen  Also, there's a hidden LED slot inside the new block, just for you


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> 4000 series optimus blocks look great. Much nicer than the full acrylic top from previous gen.


same here. See when i upgrade gpu to determine what i get.


----------



## Section31

Optimus WC said:


> You'll want the new block when you see it in person, to us it really makes the last gen seem, well, last gen  Also, there's a hidden LED slot inside the new block, just for you


Nice upgrade. Any update on 90 Rotary and Extenders


----------



## Section31

arvinz said:


> I tend to agree. Love the clean look. No exposed block screws as well which is a nice touch. In the leaked images up until the preorders, it was looking the same as the Absolute block but I think they knocked it out of the park with this design. I'm glad the pcb isn't visible...it's an eyesore.


The pcb thing was an eyesore definitely. Hopefully this design language carries down to there other products. They still have lot of in development/planning stuff to come out with like radiators, glass reservoir, expanded fitting, quick disconnects. They also were working on sig v3 amd and intel cpu blocks they last mentioned. Who knows if/when that stuff will come out ever.


----------



## straha20

Optimus WC said:


> You'll want the new block when you see it in person, to us it really makes the last gen seem, well, last gen  Also, there's a hidden LED slot inside the new block, just for you


My order is already in, and I am really looking forward to seeing it. Only thing left is getting my hands on a card


----------



## yaohanzex

The build is complete. I’m exhausted. Will take some high res photos instead of using my phone after a break.


----------



## Biggu

yaohanzex said:


> View attachment 2583483
> 
> The build starts tonight.


oh man that looks so good. Makes me wish I did black/black. I do wish the terminal was not clear acrylic though. Still waiting on my nickle one to ship but hopefully soon.


----------



## Biggu

Optimus WC said:


> n LED slot inside the new block, just for you


what size strip do we need? I need to place an order for other stuff and was going to add a RGB strip on my order.


----------



## JustDizzq

yaohanzex said:


> View attachment 2583550
> 
> The build is complete. I’m exhausted. Will take some high res photos instead of using my phone after a break.


Wow looks amazing, How's the temps?


----------



## Shawnb99

Optimus WC said:


> Also, there's a hidden LED slot inside the new block, just for you


I hope this not a trend and you’re jumping on the RGB bandwagon


----------



## Pk1

Man the new block looks great. Now if I could just get a Strix to go with it...


----------



## yaohanzex

JustDizzq said:


> Wow looks amazing, How's the temps?


Generally the delta T between die and coolant is consistent with Optimus’ tweet. During gaming load (300~400w), delta T can vary between 9 and 12 degrees. This gen is indeed much more efficient, with most of the wattage used by gpu die, thus it’s realistic the performance advantage of Optimus’ GPU block decreases compared to competition. Just like no matter how good a cpu block is, temp improvement is just 1~3 degrees.


----------



## yaohanzex

Optimus WC said:


> You'll want the new block when you see it in person, to us it really makes the last gen seem, well, last gen  Also, there's a hidden LED slot inside the new block, just for you


Hello, I have some suggestions on the installation instruction: 1.It's better to compress the backplate thermal pad before putting pcb on. 2. Don’t over tighten those three screws in step 1 to the point pcb is bending. 3. In step 3, the water block box is too flexible in my opinion, placing the block at the edge of a desk makes it easier to tighten the screws in this step. 4. The difference between the two type of screws in step 3 is only 2mm, make sure to differentiate them first.


----------



## Section31

yaohanzex said:


> Generally the delta T between die and coolant is consistent with Optimus’ tweet. During gaming load (300~400w), delta T can vary between 9 and 12 degrees. This gen is indeed much more efficient, with most of the wattage used by gpu die, thus it’s realistic the performance advantage of Optimus’ GPU block decreases compared to competition. Just like no matter how good a cpu block is, temp improvement is just 1~3 degrees.


Pretty good numbers especially compared to last gen. I think the next tier of blocks were 9-12 (Aquacomputer, Watercool) last generation too. Optimus was 9 degrees or under. Lot to think price wise.

CPU wise we need direct die cpu sold by manufacturers or internal phase or watercooling design. Stuff that’s been in development for awhile or unlikely to happen because of warranty risks.


----------



## Section31

Pk1 said:


> Man the new block looks great. Now if I could just get a Strix to go with it...


From what i see in Asia, readily available and at retail prices too. Just matter of restocking hitting north america, demand is not there like previous generations.

I would buy from Asia if i wasn’t limited on luggage room and they had the cheapest cards - founders and non-oc tuf. Rest are too expensive for me. The costs are pretty much canadian pricing plus sales tax.


----------



## yaohanzex

Section31 said:


> From what i see in Asia, readily available and at retail prices too. Just matter of restocking hitting north america, demand is not there like previous generations.
> 
> I would buy from Asia if i wasn’t limited on luggage room and they had the cheapest cards - founders and non-oc tuf. Rest are too expensive for me. The costs are pretty much canadian pricing plus sales tax.


TUF non-oc is a perfect match for this water block.


----------



## Section31

yaohanzex said:


> TUF non-oc is a perfect match for this water block.


Either or. No rush on either tbh. Too many other factors to consider. Figure 4090 stuff when i get back in 2023.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Optimus WC NM just more leftover crap from the fake XTR. Scraps off. looks so much like copper


----------



## originxt

Considering a change to amd for the first time from my 10980xe to take advantage of that free ram kit from my local MC, maybe 7950x for longer term or 7700x as a stand in until the new releases in q1 2023. How are the Optimus blocks for am5? Any additional hardware I need to buy like backplate? 

Also, 3090 evga block taken out. Used only mayhems x1 eco clear. Was in the loop since whenever the first blocks were sent. Don't see any damage. Don't mind the dust lol, blocks been out for 2-3 weeks after my 4090 buy.


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> Considering a change to amd for the first time from my 10980xe to take advantage of that free ram kit from my local MC, maybe 7950x for longer term or 7700x as a stand in until the new releases in q1 2023. How are the Optimus blocks for am5? Any additional hardware I need to buy like backplate?
> 
> Also, 3090 evga block taken out. Used only mayhems x1 eco clear. Was in the loop since whenever the first blocks were sent. Don't see any damage. Don't mind the dust lol, blocks been out for 2-3 weeks after my 4090 buy.


Optimus was working on am5 sig block should wait for that. Your block looks good, noticed black one pretty good at staying clean though any particles in your loop will stick on the coldplate.

Honestly would wait for 2023 products at this point unless super good deal or need urgently.


----------



## Ichirou

Optimus WC said:


> You'll want the new block when you see it in person, to us it really makes the last gen seem, well, last gen  Also, there's a hidden LED slot inside the new block, just for you


Any plans for an Alder/Raptor Lake direct die block?


----------



## yaohanzex




----------



## Edge0fsanity

yaohanzex said:


> View attachment 2583750
> 
> View attachment 2583752
> 
> View attachment 2583747
> 
> View attachment 2583748
> 
> View attachment 2583749
> 
> View attachment 2583751


Looks good, love the look of that in win case. My previous build a couple of years ago was in one of those. Didn't stick with it too long since the cooling performance was terrible. The design for how the air flows basically made it a convection oven. Do you leave the side glass off?

Edit - Nvm, just noticed the MoRa


----------



## Biggu

so of the 4090 blocks shipped, the only ones I saw were the black / black ones.


----------



## originxt

Section31 said:


> Optimus was working on am5 sig block should wait for that. Your block looks good, noticed black one pretty good at staying clean though any particles in your loop will stick on the coldplate.


Any idea when they plan to release the block?



Section31 said:


> Honestly would wait for 2023 products at this point unless super good deal or need urgently.


Quite honestly, might wait until 2023 like you said. My upgrade is more of a want than a need lol.


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> Any idea when they plan to release the block?
> 
> 
> 
> Quite honestly, might wait until 2023 like you said. My upgrade is more of a want than a need lol.


Best to ask optimus on that


----------



## yaohanzex

Here is the performance number. Note that “Water” and “T_Sensor l” are after Mo-Ra, “Water #2” is after GPU and CPU but before Mo-Ra. Notice that the GPU chip power draw is way closer to Total board power draw than 30 series. And this is significant efficiency increase.


----------



## Thebc2

Biggu said:


> what size strip do we need? I need to place an order for other stuff and was going to add a RGB strip on my order.


This, does Optimus or anyone who has received theirs sized an LED strip that will fit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## tomye1978

yaohanzex said:


> View attachment 2584060
> 
> Here is the performance number. Note that “Water” and “T_Sensor l” are after Mo-Ra, “Water #2” is after GPU and CPU but before Mo-Ra. Notice that the GPU chip power draw is way closer to Total board power draw than 30 series. And this is significant efficiency increase.


Sorry, but for me the numbers looking not very impressiv! 
I thought it must be arround 12° delta t @ 500Watt but not more then 17°.


----------



## Keith Myers

Are the typical delta performance numbers quoted in the forum for just the gpu in the loop, or in this case for a loop also containing a cpu?


----------



## yaohanzex

tomye1978 said:


> Sorry, but for me the numbers looking not very impressiv!
> I thought it must be arround 12° delta t @ 500Watt but not more then 17°.


Sir you might change your mind after looking at the GPU chip power to total board power ratio and compare that to 30 series.


----------



## tomye1978

yaohanzex said:


> Sir you might change your mind after looking at the GPU chip power to total board power ratio and compare that to 30 series.


I had 15° delta t with 700Watt board power draw with 3090 and I think we talk max 20-30Watt differents between generations.


----------



## yaohanzex

tomye1978 said:


> I had 15° delta t with 700Watt board power draw with 3090 and I think we talk max 20-30Watt differents between generations.


Again please check the GPU chip power draw in gpu-z while your 3090 pulling 700w. It’s much more than 20-30w difference.


----------



## tomye1978

yaohanzex said:


> Again please check the GPU chip power draw in gpu-z while your 3090 pulling 700w. It’s much more than 20-30w difference.


Here it is for 3090


----------



## originxt

tomye1978 said:


> Here it is for 3090


He meant gpu chip power draw between the 4090 and 3090 via gpu z. Not gpu vs water temp.


----------



## tomye1978

Sorry did the marks earlier, but you can read gpu draw vs total board!
590 Watts to 690 Watts. Would be nice to know same from 4090


----------



## yaohanzex

tomye1978 said:


> Sorry did the marks earlier, but you can read gpu draw vs total board!
> 590 Watts to 690 Watts. Would be nice to know same from 4090


To be honest, this is the first time I have heard gpu rail power=gpu chip power. Please just use GPU-z, otherwise we are not on the same page.


----------



## iamjanco

Received an invite from a NYC store to purchase the following at MSRP + NYS sales tax:









Now I just got to determine what block I'll be going with (I might make my own copper back plate). The card will be going in the following build, along with an ASUS Z790 Maximus Apex MB:



Spoiler: Atlas II WIP

















































In-turn, that build will be integrated into my Manhattan Project build, which includes my Muffler Bearings build:



Spoiler: The Manhattan Project








































I'll probably go with a Bryski block for the time being, just to get it things up and running quickly. 

Oh, and don't mind the fudged images. They're icing on the cake 😉


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> Received an invite from a NYC store to purchase the following at MSRP + NYS sales tax:
> View attachment 2584505
> 
> 
> Now I just got to determine what block I'll be going with (I might make my own copper back plate). The card will be going in the following build, along with an ASUS Z790 Maximus Apex MB:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Atlas II WIP
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584507
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584509
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584510
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584511
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584512​
> 
> 
> 
> In-turn, that build will be integrated into my Manhattan Project build, which includes my Muffler Bearings build:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The Manhattan Project
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584513
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584514
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584515
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584516​
> 
> 
> 
> I'll probably go with a Bryski block for the time being, just to get it things up and running quickly.
> 
> Oh, and don't mind the fudged images. They're icing on the cake 😉


Nice build. If i had room to bring back, i should just buy 4090 from asia. Readily in stock and not outrageous priced.


----------



## Pgnee

Looking for a bit of advice here...

I have a D5 res system from Optimus (Good lord its glorious) , a EK WB for a TUF 4090 and likely going to get the signature V2 WB for the loop and am trying to figure out the best solution... I'll be using a 1260 rad, however from browsing this thread, I may have been working on the _bad assumption that the single D5 would be sufficient_. I'd really appreciate if someone could help guide a few questions. Some may be basic, but Its my first weird watercooled build so I appreciate the expertise and opinions greatly.


Is it common practice to need a second D5 pump?
If I am running two pumps do they need to be in series and share the same header? [For reference my planned build is going to be the 1260 behind a wall with a total of two QDs in the chain. If I run more than one pump, would it be feasable to run one behind the wall without having to run a header wire ? (likely running a small PSU back there for fans as is) ]
14mm hard brass tubing was my thought, but do you have any other suggestions? 
Thanks so much for your help all!


----------



## Shawnb99

Pgnee said:


> Looking for a bit of advice here...
> 
> I have a D5 res system from Optimus (Good lord its glorious) , a EK WB for a TUF 4090 and likely going to get the signature V2 WB for the loop and am trying to figure out the best solution... I'll be using a 1260 rad, however from browsing this thread, I may have been working on the _bad assumption that the single D5 would be sufficient_. I'd really appreciate if someone could help guide a few questions. Some may be basic, but Its my first weird watercooled build so I appreciate the expertise and opinions greatly.
> 
> 
> Is it common practice to need a second D5 pump?
> If I am running two pumps do they need to be in series and share the same header? [For reference my planned build is going to be the 1260 behind a wall with a total of two QDs in the chain. If I run more than one pump, would it be feasable to run one behind the wall without having to run a header wire ? (likely running a small PSU back there for fans as is) ]
> 14mm hard brass tubing was my thought, but do you have any other suggestions?
> Thanks so much for your help all!


First you might want to invest in more radiator space, that may not be enough. As for dual pumps, it's not as common as it should be. As for if you need it, would all depend on your build. Since you're adding QDC's then I'd say yes you should add the second one. You would run them in series cause D5's have weak head. Yeah you can combine the PWM of them if you like.

As for tubing just be aware that may be difficult to work with.


----------



## Section31

Pgnee said:


> Looking for a bit of advice here...
> 
> I have a D5 res system from Optimus (Good lord its glorious) , a EK WB for a TUF 4090 and likely going to get the signature V2 WB for the loop and am trying to figure out the best solution... I'll be using a 1260 rad, however from browsing this thread, I may have been working on the _bad assumption that the single D5 would be sufficient_. I'd really appreciate if someone could help guide a few questions. Some may be basic, but Its my first weird watercooled build so I appreciate the expertise and opinions greatly.
> 
> 
> Is it common practice to need a second D5 pump?
> If I am running two pumps do they need to be in series and share the same header? [For reference my planned build is going to be the 1260 behind a wall with a total of two QDs in the chain. If I run more than one pump, would it be feasable to run one behind the wall without having to run a header wire ? (likely running a small PSU back there for fans as is) ]
> 14mm hard brass tubing was my thought, but do you have any other suggestions?
> Thanks so much for your help all!


Im assuming its the phobya/alphacool one right. Then as shawnb99 said an 2nd pump is recommended. Its quite high restriction for an radiator i read from reviews. 

Just got to add it in somewhere else in the loop. Would suggest an dcc pump over d5 though for that


----------



## Pgnee

Section31 said:


> Im assuming its the phobya/alphacool one right. Then as shawnb99 said an 2nd pump is recommended. Its quite high restriction for an radiator i read from reviews.
> 
> Just got to add it in somewhere else in the loop. Would suggest an dcc pump over d5 though for that


Yes. That's great to know. I'll have to figure out a way to bring the header wire through the wall to hide the second pump then. Thank you for the advice on the DCC. 
Any suggestions on having the pump behind the wall yet still have control of the speed? I'll have to find a way to extend a header or use a cpu fan controller and set to 100%?



Shawnb99 said:


> First you might want to invest in more radiator space, that may not be enough. As for dual pumps, it's not as common as it should be. As for if you need it, would all depend on your build. Since you're adding QDC's then I'd say yes you should add the second one. You would run them in series cause D5's have weak head. Yeah you can combine the PWM of them if you like.


More radiator? Darn! Thanks guess I'll see the flows and temps and go from there.


----------



## Section31

Pgnee said:


> Yes. That's great to know. I'll have to figure out a way to bring the header wire through the wall to hide the second pump then. Thank you for the advice on the DCC.
> Any suggestions on having the pump behind the wall yet still have control of the speed? I'll have to find a way to extend a header or use a cpu fan controller and set to 100%?
> 
> 
> 
> More radiator? Darn! Thanks guess I'll see the flows and temps and go from there.


Something like that. Tons of way around the issue how much do you want to spend. Could even custom mount ala mo-ra one and do res/pump with d5 next as the main unit (oled to control) or figure cabling or do aquacomputer quadro/etc to pc.


----------



## yaohanzex

iamjanco said:


> Received an invite from a NYC store to purchase the following at MSRP + NYS sales tax:
> View attachment 2584505
> 
> 
> Now I just got to determine what block I'll be going with (I might make my own copper back plate). The card will be going in the following build, along with an ASUS Z790 Maximus Apex MB:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Atlas II WIP
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584507
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584509
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584510
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584511
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584512​
> 
> 
> 
> In-turn, that build will be integrated into my Manhattan Project build, which includes my Muffler Bearings build:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The Manhattan Project
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584513
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584514
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584515
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584516​
> 
> 
> 
> I'll probably go with a Bryski block for the time being, just to get it things up and running quickly.
> 
> Oh, and don't mind the fudged images. They're icing on the cake 😉


Do you have a choice to buy the normal tuf? 45mhz factory OC is not worth $200 in my opinion.


----------



## iamjanco

yaohanzex said:


> Do you have a choice to buy the normal tuf? 45mhz factory OC is not worth $200 in my opinion.


You're kidding me, right (my eyesight must be bad)?

No, this was a one time offer by B&H, good for 48 hours; one of their 'invitations' (if you will) to purchase an 'out of stock' item. They sent me the offer because it was on my wishlist AND I've done tens of thousands of dollars worth of business with them over the years.

Sometimes I feel like it's the blind leading the blind here on OCN... anyway, you know what they say about opinions.


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> anyway, you know what they say about opinions


Every ******* has one… that’s how the saying goes right?


----------



## iamjanco

Yup, including me of course 😉


----------



## yaohanzex

iamjanco said:


> You're kidding me, right (my eyesight must be bad)?
> 
> No, this was a one time offer by B&H, good for 48 hours; one of their 'invitations' (if you will) to purchase an 'out of stock' item. They sent me the offer because it was on my wishlist AND I've done tens of thousands of dollars worth of business with them over the years.
> 
> Sometimes I feel like it's the blind leading the blind here on OCN... anyway, you know what they say about opinions.


I have received notification of this card from B&H a month ago and didn’t even bother to purchase it. I’m into photography as well, and have spent over 20 grand at B&H. It has the best customer service from my experience. And I don’t need to pay sale tax (even if you live in NY, there is a credit card offered by B&H to waive sale tax). And I’m not joking about TUF oc, 45 mhz factory oc is its only difference from TUF. But since you don’t have a choice, it doesn’t really matter.


----------



## iamjanco

^Ughhh. I'm happy for you 😉 

But you're not telling me anything new, including the info about their PayBoo card.


----------



## yaohanzex

iamjanco said:


> ^Ughhh. I'm happy for you 😉
> 
> But you're not telling me anything new, including the info about their PayBoo card.


That info isn't meant to be hidden either. I'm not trying to tell you anything sir. Like I said, since you don't have a choice, what I said doesn't apply to your case.


----------



## tomye1978

yaohanzex said:


> Sir you might change your mind after looking at the GPU chip power to total board power ratio and compare that to 30 series.


Take a look today in gpuz! 500Watt total and 300Watt Gpu draw on my 3090. What about 4090, are there any infos?


----------



## yaohanzex

tomye1978 said:


> Take a look today in gpuz! 500Watt total and 300Watt Gpu draw on my 3090. What about 4090, are there any infos?


I have posted my test results here. And you should have seen it already since you replied that the result is disappointing.


----------



## tomye1978

So if your data is correct that means the 4090 uses 40 Watts for board only vs 200 Watts for the 3090?
Sorry but there should be something wrong. Never it is possible to reduce this so much. Powerstages are working the same and only the Vram takes less power because half packaging! 
This make no sense sorry! 

Thomas


----------



## yaohanzex

tomye1978 said:


> So if your data is correct that means the 4090 uses 40 Watts for board only vs 200 Watts for the 3090?
> Sorry but there should be something wrong. Never it is possible to reduce this so much. Powerstages are working the same and only the Vram takes less power because half packaging!
> This make no sense sorry!
> 
> Thomas


This result doesn’t only show up in my test. Others have the same result. If you have a 4090 in hand test it yourself. If everything works the same, where is the efficiency increase? And how Optimus’ block suddenly performs like a 30 series EK block without anything changed.


----------



## tomye1978

Gpuz said it but that not means it is correct and I think it is clear that you can't optimise the board effiecency that much nowdays!
The vram of a 3090 needs arround 60-80 Watts.
So where to improve so much on the board?


----------



## sakete

So, anyone looking at the new Lian Li V3000+ case?


----------



## KedarWolf

Should I just go with 6th Gen Koolance Quick Disconnects?


----------



## chibi

iamjanco said:


> Received an invite from a NYC store to purchase the following at MSRP + NYS sales tax:
> View attachment 2584505
> 
> 
> Now I just got to determine what block I'll be going with (I might make my own copper back plate). The card will be going in the following build, along with an ASUS Z790 Maximus Apex MB:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Atlas II WIP
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584507
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584509
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584510
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584511
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584512​
> 
> 
> 
> In-turn, that build will be integrated into my Manhattan Project build, which includes my Muffler Bearings build:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The Manhattan Project
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584513
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584514
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584515
> 
> 
> View attachment 2584516​
> 
> 
> 
> I'll probably go with a Bryski block for the time being, just to get it things up and running quickly.
> 
> Oh, and don't mind the fudged images. They're icing on the cake 😉


That Dark board looks like it didn't even get a chance to stretch it's legs before being relegated by the Apex, lol. The Manhattan project picture looks like it's straight out of Borderlands. 



sakete said:


> So, anyone looking at the new Lian Li V3000+ case?


I was interested very early in the project. Then as time went on, it got worse and worse. These days I've moved on from big cases stuffed full of rads and transitioned to SFF + Mora 420. Works better for my needs. The only downside is my case can only fit tiny gpu's. You can forget about aib cards with waterblocks. Will keep a close eye on the CaseLabs revival and snag an S3 if possible.


----------



## Section31

KedarWolf said:


> Should I just go with 6th Gen Koolance Quick Disconnects?


Go cpc colder lq6 qdc if you have the budget. These are probably better than koolance qdc though koolance is lot easier to get (ppcs/koolance) and cheaper.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> So, anyone looking at the new Lian Li V3000+ case?


They ruined it but also economic etc dictate use what you have and save up for caselabs revival or upgrades you must have.


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> They ruined it but also economic etc dictate use what you have and save up for caselabs revival or upgrades you must have.


When is this caselabs revival supposed to happen?

And I was about to pull the trigger after trying to score a couple HL 480GTX rads on PPCS with their Black Friday sale, but I was apparently not the only one with that idea as they had 8 in stock and then half an hour later when I logged on again there was only 1 left. And I wanted 2.

So I'll just hold off on doing any cooling and case upgrades for the time being. Was kind of reluctant about the whole thing anyway and now the universe has decided for me .


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> When is this caselabs revival supposed to happen?
> 
> And I was about to pull the trigger after trying to score a couple HL 480GTX rads on PPCS with their Black Friday sale, but I was apparently not the only one with that idea as they had 8 in stock and then half an hour later when I logged on again there was only 1 left. And I wanted 2.
> 
> So I'll just hold off on doing any cooling and case upgrades for the time being. Was kind of reluctant about the whole thing anyway and now the universe has decided for me .


Tbd. We will watch and see, I think thats wise. I am waiting for watercool cpu v block myself before i commit. Lot of delayed plans getting further delayed on watercooling/pc side.


----------



## bearsdidit

A shameless plug for or anyone looking for a 3090 Strix w/ Optimus Block:


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/hardwareswap/comments/z4y1av


----------



## KedarWolf

ORDER #OP8349 Strix 4090 block.

Can anyone say their order number that has shipped recently?


----------



## Biggu

Order number OP8150 and mine hasn't shipped yet even though I know others later than mine has shipped. From what I have seen though only the black blocks have shipped.


----------



## iamjanco

realistically speaking, do you think they'll get 200 orders done between now and the end of January? I guess time will tell.


----------



## KedarWolf

Biggu said:


> Order number OP8150 and mine hasn't shipped yet even though I know others later than mine has shipped. From what I have seen though only the black blocks have shipped.


Mine is a black block with a nickel cold plate.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

KedarWolf said:


> ORDER #OP8349 Strix 4090 block.
> 
> Can anyone say their order number that has shipped recently?


8194 hasn't shipped yet. Black/nickel cold plate


----------



## arvinz

KedarWolf said:


> ORDER #OP8349 Strix 4090 block.
> 
> Can anyone say their order number that has shipped recently?


#OP8207 here but not shipped. I did sell my TUF 4090 so will no longer need this. I will be either selling it or returning it as I picked up an FE.


----------



## yaohanzex

If 8144 and 8145 were shipped out but 8149 isn't, then the 2 black and 3 silver blocks were at least half of what Optimus made over the past week? This is one~two blocks per day yet again. Or they just worked over time last week to send out some blocks and then went on holiday this whole week.


----------



## arvinz

yaohanzex said:


> If 8144 and 8145 were shipped out but 8149 isn't, then the 2 black and 3 silver blocks were at least half of what Optimus made over the past week? This is one~two blocks per day yet again. Or they just worked over time last week to send out some blocks and then went on holiday this whole week.


I think you're right. I'm going to be waiting a long time for the FE block...


----------



## Section31

yaohanzex said:


> If 8144 and 8145 were shipped out but 8149 isn't, then the 2 black and 3 silver blocks were at least half of what Optimus made over the past week? This is one~two blocks per day yet again. Or they just worked over time last week to send out some blocks and then went on holiday this whole week.


This is Optimus. They have there own schedule so just be patient and people should let them do there job lol. Buy an temp gpu block if you must watercool it.


----------



## Section31

bearsdidit said:


> A shameless plug for or anyone looking for a 3090 Strix w/ Optimus Block:
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/hardwareswap/comments/z4y1av


Lol. That being said i can’t afford anymore the craziness that was last gen gpu block that i was able to resell some most for no loss. Got Two Optimus FTW3 Blocks, One BP Strix Block and One Strix Optimus and One Black Ceratoke Mid Plate. Only getting one block this time and thats it.

The amount of cpu blocks and coldplate were scary too chasing down the problem of copper on my coldplates too.


----------



## Biggu

Hell im having a hard time selling my Optimus Strix block too. I guess I shouldn't be surprised though since I was never able to sell my Optimus Signature v2 block too.


----------



## acoustic

Biggu said:


> Hell im having a hard time selling my Optimus Strix block too. I guess I shouldn't be surprised though since I was never able to sell my Optimus Signature v2 block too.


I thought about asking you about the STRIX block, but it's hard to put any money towards a 3080TI that already has an EK block on it which has performed very well.


----------



## bearsdidit

Biggu said:


> Hell im having a hard time selling my Optimus Strix block too. I guess I shouldn't be surprised though since I was never able to sell my Optimus Signature v2 block too.


I had a few request to sell the card separately but the market is too small for a used water block.

FWIW, I sold the card + block for full asking within 12 hours. I’m sure I could’ve asked for a bit more but happy to pass it on for a fair price.


----------



## Vld

Tight


----------



## vasyltheonly

Hello everyone, I am trying to replace a Bitspower CPU block. This is for a O11 Dynamic front panel distribution block which has 35mm of spacing. Can someone measure the distance from the center of the inlet/outlet? I need it to be 35mm apart to be compatible with the tubing. Thanks!


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Hell im having a hard time selling my Optimus Strix block too. I guess I shouldn't be surprised though since I was never able to sell my Optimus Signature v2 block too.


Thats expected. I gave mine away. Watercooling market niche and atm, not so many newcomers to take the stuff up. That and costs to finish loops went up.


----------



## cennis

Does anyone know the cerakote color code of the "black" or "satin nickel" on the GPU blocks?


----------



## Section31

cennis said:


> Does anyone know the cerakote color code of the "black" or "satin nickel" on the GPU blocks?


Hey Cennis, Would discord you but like many things i don’t have access to discord among things. Email Optimus is my recommendation. Though i think you can get better ceratoke options than optimus did


----------



## Biggu

bearsdidit said:


> I had a few request to sell the card separately but the market is too small for a used water block.
> 
> FWIW, I sold the card + block for full asking within 12 hours. I’m sure I could’ve asked for a bit more but happy to pass it on for a fair price.


I have a buddy that offered me a 3090 strix for a really decent price that I considered buying it and putting the block on it to sell. I just didnt want to put extra money into it when im selling the block so cheap.


----------



## Gunslinger.

Question so I don't have to comb through 700+ pages of conversation.

Did the Optimus 3090 Kingpin block design end up taking away the SLI option, or can 2x Optimus cooled 3090 KPE cards be linked?

I know the early design was to block the bridge connection but I never followed it close enough to be certain.


----------



## Biggu

Gunslinger. said:


> Question so I don't have to comb through 700+ pages of conversation.
> 
> Did the Optimus 3090 Kingpin block design end up taking away the SLI option, or can 2x Optimus cooled 3090 KPE cards be linked?
> 
> I know the early design was to block the bridge connection but I never followed it close enough to be certain.


I havent had a KPE but I recall the KPE block did get modified to allow the SLI.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Gunslinger. said:


> Question so I don't have to comb through 700+ pages of conversation.
> 
> Did the Optimus 3090 Kingpin block design end up taking away the SLI option, or can 2x Optimus cooled 3090 KPE cards be linked?
> 
> I know the early design was to block the bridge connection but I never followed it close enough to be certain.


It allows sli


----------



## Pk1

For 12th/13th gen Intel, does using a metal backplate improve temps at all with the Sig V2? Plan on installing new cpu tomorrow and I have a EK 1700 mounting plate I was thinking of using. Let me know. Thanks


----------



## elbramso

Pk1 said:


> For 12th/13th gen Intel, does using a metal backplate improve temps at all with the Sig V2? Plan on installing new cpu tomorrow and I have a EK 1700 mounting plate I was thinking of using. Let me know. Thanks


Having any sort of backplate for this block is better than the 4 screws that come with the Sig V2 🤣


----------



## Pk1

elbramso said:


> Having any sort of backplate for this block is better than the 4 screws that come with the Sig V2 🤣


OK thought so. Never had any issues with my 10850k but I assumed backplate = better. Thanks for confirming 👍.


----------



## Veii

@Optimus WC 
is there any plan & ETA to stock up on 16mm fittings & 30cm Tube Res units ?

For the Pump bottom;
Are there bottom mounting screws included ?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Anyone know if optimus has been shipping tuf/strix blocks after the initial week 1 batch? Starting to wonder if I'm in for a much longer wait. Temptation to grab a barrow or byski block off ebay is really high right now. I'm building right now and I'm going to need a gpu block in the next couple of weeks.


----------



## Biggu

Edge0fsanity said:


> Anyone know if optimus has been shipping tuf/strix blocks after the initial week 1 batch? Starting to wonder if I'm in for a much longer wait. Temptation to grab a barrow or byski block off ebay is really high right now. I'm building right now and I'm going to need a gpu block in the next couple of weeks.


Not that ive seen. Looking around ive only seen they shipped black on black but nothing on silver and or nickel ones. Honestly its very disappointing considering I got my order in right as their tweet went off and before the rest of the notifications went out. I know people ahead and behind me in the order have gotten their order. 

I think personally Im planning to give it another week or two and then if nothing I will cancel my order. Sure they said first batch would ship November / December but seriously my order was probably within the top 10 orders once they opened up. On top of that last 3090 block they offered a discount and this order not **** and literally no communication. Ive literally got twitter only to get communications from Optimus but they dont even seem to bother with that anymore.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Biggu said:


> Not that ive seen. Looking around ive only seen they shipped black on black but nothing on silver and or nickel ones. Honestly its very disappointing considering I got my order in right as their tweet went off and before the rest of the notifications went out. I know people ahead and behind me in the order have gotten their order.
> 
> I think personally Im planning to give it another week or two and then if nothing I will cancel my order. Sure they said first batch would ship November / December but seriously my order was probably within the top 10 orders once they opened up. On top of that last 3090 block they offered a discount and this order not **** and literally no communication. Ive literally got twitter only to get communications from Optimus but they dont even seem to bother with that anymore.


Figured that was the case. Mine is a black/black but its middle of the pack for day 1 orders. I forgot that the announcement goes out on twitter first and bought when the email notification went out a few hours later thinking I would be first in line. Been through this 3 times already with the ftw3, strix, and kpe blocks last gen. Oh well, guess I'll just order a cheap block then put the optimus block in sometime next year. I can't afford to wait it out this time, too busy to deal with never ending builds. I had a bunch of pto to burn at the end of this year so I actually have time to do this right now.


----------



## Thebc2

I had the same internal struggle! I had even just had a Phanteks Strix 4090 block arrive a day before the Optimus orders opened up finally, but I sent it back. I considered doing it twice just so I could get my 4090 under water ASAP but the more I thought about it, the juice is just not worth the squeeze this gen. The gap in actual performance uplift I would see is not nearly as night and day as the 30 series.

I too am surprised how long it's taken to get my order, I placed mine within minutes of the tweet but I guess I chose the wrong combo[emoji15]

For me the choice is whether I want to water cool at all or not at this point. I am leaning towards water cooling still, but mainly to save room in my case.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## straha20

Well, I have my CableMod cable, I have my 4090 TUF in hand, now just waiting on my first day batch block.


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## Section31

Biggu said:


> Not that ive seen. Looking around ive only seen they shipped black on black but nothing on silver and or nickel ones. Honestly its very disappointing considering I got my order in right as their tweet went off and before the rest of the notifications went out. I know people ahead and behind me in the order have gotten their order.
> 
> I think personally Im planning to give it another week or two and then if nothing I will cancel my order. Sure they said first batch would ship November / December but seriously my order was probably within the top 10 orders once they opened up. On top of that last 3090 block they offered a discount and this order not **** and literally no communication. Ive literally got twitter only to get communications from Optimus but they dont even seem to bother with that anymore.


This is Optimus. Lot of delays tbh. Even watercool only founders block is early 2023 it seems. So just wait. 

Glad i am still waiting on 4090 tbh.


----------



## Veii

Section31 said:


> This is Optimus. Lot of delays tbh.


Sadly
In responses too.
Can be forgiven for good part quality, but problematic business


----------



## KedarWolf

People are reporting with water blocks and low RAM temps, they need to lower their RAM overclocks or instability and blue screens etc.

Can anyone comment on their experience with an Optimus 4090 block?


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## Edge0fsanity

KedarWolf said:


> People are reporting with water blocks and low RAM temps, they need to lower their RAM overclocks or instability and blue screens etc.
> 
> Can anyone comment on their experience with an Optimus 4090 block?


Been hearing about that as well, also curious. I ordered a barrow block to hold me over while I wait for optimus. Makes me wonder if the barrow block with whatever thermal pads they supply will outperform it.


----------



## jomama22

The gddr6x likes to be at 50C+ for best results. Just the name of the game.


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## chibi

Anyone know if 4080 and 4090 FE blocks are interchangeable?


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## Biggu

KedarWolf said:


> People are reporting with water blocks and low RAM temps, they need to lower their RAM overclocks or instability and blue screens etc.
> 
> Can anyone comment on their experience with an Optimus 4090 block?


Im curious in hearing more about this. Would you mind sharing where you found people talking about this?


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## KedarWolf

Biggu said:


> Im curious in hearing more about this. Would you mind sharing where you found people talking about this?


In the RTX 4090 thread here on overclock.net. I'm on my phone so can't link it directly at the moment, but several posts about it.


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## Section31

chibi said:


> Anyone know if 4080 and 4090 FE blocks are interchangeable?


I doubt it. I thought you weren’t getting? I think 4080ti will be an option for us with the slow inventory reaching canada.


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## chibi

Section31 said:


> I doubt it. I thought you weren’t getting?


Might, might not, still in the air. I thought they used the same air cooler for FE models so was curious about water block compatibility.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Might, might not, still in the air. I thought they used the same air cooler for FE models so was curious about water block compatibility.


We will find out. By time we get it, waterblock other issues will be worked out.


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## asdf893

Any news on 4090 FE block from Optimus


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## Section31

asdf893 said:


> Any news on 4090 FE block from Optimus


None. Assume delayed and sometime in 2023


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## iamjanco

They're both big out of the box; but the Strix is massive:


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## Biggu

This dude over here just flexing on all of us with not one but two 4090's. 

I think the 4090 is the one GPU that actually looks like its the right size for a caselabs SMA8 case lol.


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## iamjanco

It's a sma8ll *hands* thang...


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## Biggu

So for anyone curious, Optimus did respond back to me and stated their goal is for my block to ship by the end of the week and they stated the delay is due to my color choice. I guess we will see, If they stated the nickle would have this long of a delay I would have just gotten the black one. That said, I guess its only been a month so this is progress if it actually ships.


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## Thebc2

Mine shipped today. Matte black/copper. Hang in there, those that are waiting; they are going out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## chibi

Those that have received their 4-series blocks, have you opened them up yet? If so, can I ask if the threads securing the cold plate been improved from their 3-series blocks? My previous block one of the corners had what felt like 2-3 threads securing the cold plate. Seeing as how the block is copper, the threads were relatively weak and one of them actually broke off which required an RMA.


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## straha20

Biggu said:


> So for anyone curious, Optimus did respond back to me and stated their goal is for my block to ship by the end of the week and they stated the delay is due to my color choice. I guess we will see, If they stated the nickle would have this long of a delay I would have just gotten the black one. That said, I guess its only been a month so this is progress if it actually ships.


What was your order number if you don't mind my asking? I also ordered the satin nickel ceramic with satin nickel backplate. My order was OP8223 on Nov 15.


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## Biggu

straha20 said:


> What was your order number if you don't mind my asking? I also ordered the satin nickel ceramic with satin nickel backplate. My order was OP8223 on Nov 15.


Mine was OP8150 on Nov 15th as well.


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## elbramso

Order #OP8217 not shiped yet


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## Biggu

Just got notice my block shipped. Hopefully those of you with simular color orders ship soon too.


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## KedarWolf

Biggu said:


> Just got notice my block shipped. Hopefully those of you with simular color orders ship soon too.


What order # was your block? Mine is black/nickel #OP8350. I ordered later.


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## iamjanco

Biggu said:


> Mine was OP8150 on Nov 15th as well.
> 
> 
> KedarWolf said:
> 
> 
> 
> What order # was your block? Mine is black/nickel #OP8350. I ordered later.
Click to expand...


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## bomber91

order 8175 is shipped 10 minutes ago


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## arvinz

OP8207 here. Ordered Black / Nickel but I reached out to Optimus to let them know that I had sold my TUF 4090 and replaced it with an FE. I told them if they could switch my order to the FE block once that's available and they said yes. So someone will get my Strix/TUF block


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## Section31

I could get more than two 4090 (ton of supply here in asia) but im being careful on pc upgrade and when to go in. That and i have no luggage room. Lot of selection too.


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## Section31

Then theres this beauty which i always wanted but waterblock support is almost non-existent


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## Biggu

So my Optimus block showed up and got it all installed. I gotta say I really really dislike the satin nickle ceramic finish in person. Its just so out of place looking in my PC. Ill probably end up reaching out to Optimus and ask if I can buy a back-plate and frame in black or if I need to buy a whole new block.


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## chibi

^Pictures?


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## Biggu

I suppose I cant make those comments and not post pics huh.
Few things: Yes I know its dusty, ill be cleaning it up soon.
Yes I am running the adapter still. As soon as the Seasonic Vertex PX-1000 or PX-1200 comes out ill be going to that and building my own power cable. 
Yes I know the tubing run is more difficult than it needs to be. I am trying something out because im tired of looking at that ugly tubing run with the other way. Unfortunately I drilled the divider for my really old Hydro copper and ive been to lazy to do something about it.


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## RichKnecht

Biggu said:


> I suppose I cant make those comments and not post pics huh.
> Few things: Yes I know its dusty, ill be cleaning it up soon.
> Yes I am running the adapter still. As soon as the Seasonic Vertex PX-1000 or PX-1200 comes out ill be going to that and building my own power cable.
> Yes I know the tubing run is more difficult than it needs to be. I am trying something out because im tired of looking at that ugly tubing run with the other way. Unfortunately I drilled the divider for my really old Hydro copper and ive been to lazy to do something about it.


Totally off topic, but I love that matte black ZMT


----------



## chibi

The second picture really shows the difference in colour. GPU block looks to have a yellow/gold hue to it.


----------



## acoustic

chibi said:


> The second picture really shows the difference in colour. GPU block looks to have a yellow/gold hue to it.


Yeah, not a fan


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## straha20

Biggu said:


> I suppose I cant make those comments and not post pics huh.
> Few things: Yes I know its dusty, ill be cleaning it up soon.
> Yes I am running the adapter still. As soon as the Seasonic Vertex PX-1000 or PX-1200 comes out ill be going to that and building my own power cable.
> Yes I know the tubing run is more difficult than it needs to be. I am trying something out because im tired of looking at that ugly tubing run with the other way. Unfortunately I drilled the divider for my really old Hydro copper and ive been to lazy to do something about it.


Thank you for posting these pictures, because they just jogged my memory a bit and made me realize I am a complete dumbass. For some reason, I ordered the Satin Nickel, I have stated a couple times in this thread that I was waiting on the Satin Nickel...when all the rest of my Optimus fittings, reservoirs, and 3090 block are Satin Silver. Why on earth I ordered Satin Nickel. Uggh. So I just now sent a message to @Optimus WC requesting a change from the nickel to silver. I hope they can manage that, and it not take six months.


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## Thebc2

Got my Black/Copper installed on Saturday and I am very pleased; both aesthetically and functionally it is very nice. The design is a nice improvement on the original. The smaller footprint as well as the integration of the metal frame on the plexi side is very clean. 

Performance-wise. Temps I am seeing roughly range from 22-45C, which for me has meant that I have gained 5 bins on my overclock and lost ~30C on full load at the same time. I was previously running 3015mhz reliably while gaming, I am now rock solid at 3090mhz, I also gained 200mhz on my memory OC somehow,. I was maxing out at roughly 75C on the TUF's air cooler at full load while gaming. Yes, the the core to water deltas are higher across the board with Lovelace, but IMO I think Optimus has managed it the best. 

Great job Optimus, this was a tough generation to cool but I am seeing great improvement over the already very good stock ASUS cooler and a real world 5 bins of OC gain. Hwinfo pic is after a few minutes running Furmark. The two Octo temp sensors are water temps.


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## Biggu

Well your all welcome, Glad it helps. I really wish they posted photos of the actual color rather than renderings. Its almost like silver that is UV damaged LOL. I just sent an email to Optimus to ask if I can buy a replacement backplate and frame so hopefully they will allow me to.


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## Edge0fsanity

8194 shipped


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## KedarWolf

Edge0fsanity said:


> 8194 shipped


I'm way behind that. 'sigh'

*ORDER #OP8349*


----------



## bullydog

Have been using the Optimus GPU block on my evga 3080ti for approx 2years now and decided to remove, clean up and refresh with a new coat of thermal paste.

During the process of removing the block i noticed at the lower part of the GPU around the PCI-E connector being "oily" and when i removed the block i realized that the large thermal pad for the backplate secretes a large amount of residue around the entire video card

Just curious anyone here also experienced this? I'm concerned if this oily residue that's in contact with all the electrical components around the card could cause any issue ?

thanks in advance


----------



## dwolvin

I don't have that block, but it's been reported often. Just silicone (or similar) in the pad to keep it pliable from what i understand, and not an issue.


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## arvinz

bullydog said:


> Have been using the Optimus GPU block on my evga 3080ti for approx 2years now and decided to remove, clean up and refresh with a new coat of thermal paste.
> 
> During the process of removing the block i noticed at the lower part of the GPU around the PCI-E connector being "oily" and when i removed the block i realized that the large thermal pad for the backplate secretes a large amount of residue around the entire video card
> 
> Just curious anyone here also experienced this? I'm concerned if this oily residue that's in contact with all the electrical components around the card could cause any issue ?
> 
> thanks in advance


Completely normal. I have it on my block as well. It basically covered the entire PCB over time.


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## bullydog

Thanks Arvinz and dwolvin for your replies, appreciate it


----------



## UdoG

Is anyone using the Foundation block with an AM5 CPU? 
Any experience with changing the block to the goofy position (inlet left / outlet right)?


----------



## Keith Myers

UdoG said:


> Is anyone using the Foundation block with an AM5 CPU?
> Any experience with changing the block to the goofy position (inlet left / outlet right)?


I simply swapped out the mobo and cpu from my Asus C7H board with a 5950X to a Asus X670E Hero with a 7950X and just kept going. I didn't change the standard port position since the dies are in the same place relative to the IHS as before with Zen 3 cpus.

The cpu temps are much hotter compared to the 5950X as reviewed by many. The boost mechanism will take the good CCD0 die right up to the 95° C. setpoint while the mediocre CCD1 will run about 300Mhz slower and about 8°C. cooler because of the slower clocks.


----------



## chibi

@Optimus WC - ETA for flex fittings (black) restock?

If anyone has any spares, I'm looking for 6-8 more in black that are new, or like new condition. Thanks


----------



## Edge0fsanity

For those of you with the tuf/strix 4090 block, what are your memory temps like? I've noticed mem junction temps slowly creeping up to around 70c when looping PR at 4k. Thought they would be lower with this block. Makes me wonder if I have a contact issue. Core temps are excellent, 15c water delta, and doesn't go much above 40c at ~500w power draw.


----------



## acoustic

Edge0fsanity said:


> For those of you with the tuf/strix 4090 block, what are your memory temps like? I've noticed mem junction temps slowly creeping up to around 70c when looping PR at 4k. Thought they would be lower with this block. Makes me wonder if I have a contact issue. Core temps are excellent, 15c water delta, and doesn't go much above 40c at ~500w power draw.


Apparently you want the memory warm. Tons of reports of memory losing clock speed with those active backplates. 70c is probably ideal considering those reports.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

acoustic said:


> Apparently you want the memory warm. Tons of reports of memory losing clock speed with those active backplates. 70c is probably ideal considering those reports.


Yeah, I know the higher temps are better but I'm concerned I have a contact issue. The temps slowly creeping up seems odd to me. I had a barrow block on this card before this and the temps with whatever pads they supplied stayed around 50-60c. My water temps generally stay around 25c when fully heated up.


----------



## acoustic

Edge0fsanity said:


> Yeah, I know the higher temps are better but I'm concerned I have a contact issue. The temps slowly creeping up seems odd to me. I had a barrow block on this card before this and the temps with whatever pads they supplied stayed around 50-60c. My water temps generally stay around 25c when fully heated up.


I’m sure it wouldn’t hurt to break the card open, but that’s a lot of work.


----------



## KedarWolf

@Optimus WC 

Can you respond to my email for my last two orders?

It's as below.

"For my last two orders to import them to Canada with my shipping company, I need Country Of Origin certificates.

Could you provide them, please?

*ORDER #OP8350

ORDER #OP8349*

Please respond promptly, my AM5 Foundation block is delayed until I get these."


----------



## straha20

Just got shipping notification for order OP8223. 4090 Strix/TUF block. Satin Silver nickel cold plate. Hopefully get it tomorrow as it has less than 200 miles to travel


----------



## Pk1

Man, not being able to get an Optimus block this generation makes me sad. Would be really awesome if Optimus decided to make a block for the MSI Suprim X too. Waterblock support for my card is very slim pickings. Going from an Optimus block to a Byski one is going to be rough. Lol.


----------



## acoustic

Pk1 said:


> Man, not being able to get an Optimus block this generation makes me sad. Would be really awesome if Optimus decided to make a block for the MSI Suprim X too. Waterblock support for my card is very slim pickings. Going from an Optimus block to a Byski one is going to be rough. Lol.


It always seems like MSI cards do not get good waterblock support if they are custom design PCBs. Sucks, because the Suprim seems to be pretty well built this generation.


----------



## mouacyk

Pk1 said:


> Man, not being able to get an Optimus block this generation makes me sad. Would be really awesome if Optimus decided to make a block for the MSI Suprim X too. Waterblock support for my card is very slim pickings. Going from an Optimus block to a Byski one is going to be rough. Lol.


Dunno about you, but I can taste the difference.


----------



## Pk1

Perhaps in the future better blocks will come out and I can get another for it then. Really wanted a FE or Strix/Tuf but Suprim was on the shelf so that's what I got. Lol. Will see how things play out.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

acoustic said:


> I’m sure it wouldn’t hurt to break the card open, but that’s a lot of work.


Yeah it is but what I'll probably have to do. I'll look at it when I get a 13900ks to replace my lottery loser 13900k. I think I may have overtightened the 3 screws that secure the pcb to the backplate in the first step of the install. There was a bit of pcb flex after that... Probably shouldn't have left it that way. Core temps are excellent so that mount was perfect. Still curious what mem temps are for other people with this block.


----------



## Thebc2

Edge0fsanity said:


> Yeah it is but what I'll probably have to do. I'll look at it when I get a 13900ks to replace my lottery loser 13900k. I think I may have overtightened the 3 screws that secure the pcb to the backplate in the first step of the install. There was a bit of pcb flex after that... Probably shouldn't have left it that way. Core temps are excellent so that mount was perfect. Still curious what mem temps are for other people with this block.


I am not seeing anywhere near those deltas, I would 100% remount. I posted this earlier in the thread. This is under full load in Furmark.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Section31

Pk1 said:


> Perhaps in the future better blocks will come out and I can get another for it then. Really wanted a FE or Strix/Tuf but Suprim was on the shelf so that's what I got. Lol. Will see how things play out.



I wonder if nvidia/amd/intel are better off delaying next round of releases at this point by 1-2years on consumer and focus on b2b side. Iron out the bugs and boast yield for smaller architectural nodes. Work on better cooling methods design wise.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Section31 said:


> I wonder if nvidia/amd/intel are better off delaying next round of releases at this point by 1-2years on consumer and focus on b2b side. Iron out the bugs and boast yield for smaller architectural nodes. Work on better cooling methods design wise.


Nah, they'll just slap on a 5 slot cooler.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


----------



## Section31

Sir Beregond said:


> Nah, they'll just slap on a 5 slot cooler.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


Who knows. Will see how my gpu plans go.


----------



## straha20

Got my block installed. Build quality is excellent as always. I personally like the aesthetic of the 3090 block better in my system, but the 4090 block is still nice.

After a 2 hour run of Furmark my Ausus TUF non-OC at stock settings, the temps are phenomenal.


----------



## arvinz

straha20 said:


> Got my block installed. Build quality is excellent as always. I personally like the aesthetic of the 3090 block better in my system, but the 4090 block is still nice.
> 
> After a 2 hour run of Furmark my Ausus TUF non-OC at stock settings, the temps are phenomenal.


Looking good! What is your ambient temp like?


----------



## straha20

arvinz said:


> Looking good! What is your ambient temp like?


Ambient is 23c. 

The biggest drawback to my setup here is that my furnace vent is fairly close to my radiator fans, so when the furnace kicks on, it is drawing warmer air through the rad bumping the temps just a little bit. The flip side to that is in the summer it pulls cooler air through when the air conditioner kicks on.

Started a bit of overclocking and stability testing. Here is after an hour of Furmark.


----------



## straha20




----------



## ArcticZero

Hi, just wondering how long Optimus 4090 block lead times are looking like recently if I order now. Thought I was getting FE but turns out I'm getting a Strix after all.


----------



## Section31

straha20 said:


>


Looking good


----------



## mech9t5

straha20 said:


> Got my block installed. Build quality is excellent as always. I personally like the aesthetic of the 3090 block better in my system, but the 4090 block is still nice.
> 
> After a 2 hour run of Furmark my Ausus TUF non-OC at stock settings, the temps are phenomenal.


May I ask, roughly what your order number was?


----------



## straha20

mech9t5 said:


> May I ask, roughly what your order number was?


My order was OP8223 on Nov 15.


----------



## ArcticZero

ArcticZero said:


> Hi, just wondering how long Optimus 4090 block lead times are looking like recently if I order now. Thought I was getting FE but turns out I'm getting a Strix after all.


Personal update, got a reply from email support. Looks like end of Jan for new orders.


----------

