# Pipe bending 101



## threephi

This is what I use:


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## Fuganater

Can you link the fittings you used?


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## B NEGATIVE

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html


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## Ace_finland

Do you remember what the inner diameter was on the fittings? When i was looking for pipe fittings they were like 6mm id, thought that would be too restrictive? How has you loop worked?


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## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html


Thanks man.


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## DEEBS808

Thanks man.Will try in new build..what size pipe are those?


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DEEBS808*
> 
> Thanks man.Will try in new build..what size pipe are those?


This pipe is 10mm OD.
You can also go for 12mm pipe and use BP/Phobya Sli Fittings,not recommended for 180 pipe runs as they dont have a lock ring.


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## CrazzyRussian

Even if I'll probably never get that far into water cooling to use this, awesome guide bro!


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazzyRussian*
> 
> Even if I'll probably never get that far into water cooling to use this, awesome guide bro!


Thanks man.


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## Fuganater

12mm is a bit hard to find in the US. I mean I spent a few mintutes searching but everything comes up with 1/2" which is too big. 10mm is a bit easier to find.


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> 12mm is a bit hard to find in the US. I mean I spent a few mintutes searching but everything comes up with 1/2" which is too big. 10mm is a bit easier to find.


If you can put some links up,i will incorporate them in to the OP


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## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you can put some links up,i will incorporate them in to the OP


Which do you use?

Soft = Coiled

or

Hard = Sticks


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## Fuganater

10mm:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-tubing/=icfb8z
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=18333&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1288&top_cat=87
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1866&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1295&top_cat=87
http://electrontubestore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=57_122_123&products_id=1587
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=10+mm+copper+tube&_osacat=0&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=10+mm+copper+pipe&_sacat=0

12mm:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-tubing/=icfaeq

1/2" (may fit the 12mm fittings...)
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=18335&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1288&top_cat=87
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=18336&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1288&top_cat=87
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1869&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1295&top_cat=87
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1871&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1295&top_cat=87


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## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> 12mm is a bit hard to find in the US. I mean I spent a few mintutes searching but everything comes up with 1/2" which is too big. 10mm is a bit easier to find.


http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-tubing/=icffk3

You can find all the specialty products on Mcmaster Carr's website. It might be a little more pricy but its great!


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## freitz

Did you use anything special to secure the tubing to the fitting?


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Did you use anything special to secure the tubing to the fitting?


Push fit fittings have a pull up lock ring,the 12mm guys use BP sli fittings which have no safety device at all


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## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Push fit fittings have a pull up lock ring,the 12mm guys use BP sli fittings which have no safety device at all


How does this locking ring work? Does it bend the end of the pipe or can you reuse them? Good guide by the way, OCN needed one


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## Boweezie

Great guide, beat me to it! I'm getting all my copper stuff in this week so I'll definitely be having an awesome weekend coming up







If anyone is looking for 12mm copper tubing, go to:

www.coppertubingsales.com

EXTREMELY CHEAP compared to McMasterCarr. The only downside is that you have to buy a 10 meter roll from them and they will not sell anything less. But is is an awesome deal and you can save the rest of the copper for your next build!

If you are looking to use BitsPower 1/4 SLI fittings then STAY AWAY from 1/2" tubing. It will be a nightmare. Trust me, I've tried. BUT, if you have a lot of time and love sanding untill your fingers fall off, it can be done.

Now all we need to add to this guide is how to polish, paint and how to go about chroming these pipes. I know chroming might have to be done by a professional, but maybe there are some cool looking alternatives. Good Job OP!


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## GoodInk

Just the thread I was looking for


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## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Great guide, beat me to it! I'm getting all my copper stuff in this week so I'll definitely be having an awesome weekend coming up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone is looking for 12mm copper tubing, go to:
> www.coppertubingsales.com
> EXTREMELY CHEAP compared to McMasterCarr. The only downside is that you have to buy a 10 meter roll from them and they will not sell anything less. But is is an awesome deal and you can save the rest of the copper for your next build!
> If you are looking to use BitsPower 1/4 SLI fittings then STAY AWAY from 1/2" tubing. It will be a nightmare. Trust me, I've tried. BUT, if you have a lot of time and love sanding untill your fingers fall off, it can be done.
> Now all we need to add to this guide is how to polish, paint and how to go about chroming these pipes. I know chroming might have to be done by a professional, but maybe there are some cool looking alternatives. Good Job OP!


Wait, which fittings are you going to use? Link please.


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## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Wait, which fittings are you going to use? Link please.


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1sishmuad.html

All you have to do is pick your color and your favorite site to buy them from


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## ugotd8

My dumb question of the day... OK to use polished stainless tubing or a copper only thing ?


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## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> My dumb question of the day... OK to use polished stainless tubing or a copper only thing ?


As long as it is not aluminum tubing, you should be OK. Copper tubing is the safest and that is the only tubing I have seen being used in liquid cooling builds.


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## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> As long as it is not aluminum tubing, you should be OK. Copper tubing is the safest and that is the only tubing I have seen being used in liquid cooling builds.


Thanks. I thought I had seen builds using what looked like polished stainless, apparently guys are bending/cutting the copper tubing to fit, then sending it out to be chromed ? Interesting nonetheless.


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## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Thanks. I thought I had seen builds using what looked like polished stainless, apparently guys are bending/cutting the copper tubing to fit, then sending it out to be chromed ? Interesting nonetheless.


Exactly. I have been trying to look for chrome/nickel plated copper tubing with no luck. I also thought that I might be able to do it myself. Turns out chrome plating can only be done by professionals.


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## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Thanks. I thought I had seen builds using what looked like polished stainless, apparently guys are bending/cutting the copper tubing to fit, then sending it out to be chromed ? Interesting nonetheless.


People get them nickle plated.


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## Boweezie

Can I also use a dremel or a saw to cut copper tubing?


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## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1sishmuad.html
> All you have to do is pick your color and your favorite site to buy them from


Ok.. I thought you were looking at some crazy ones or something.


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> My dumb question of the day... OK to use polished stainless tubing or a copper only thing ?


You can use stainless but it is a lot harder to bend manually
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Which do you use?
> Soft = Coiled
> or
> Hard = Sticks


Coiled = Annealed
Straight = Half/hard (normally)

Annealed is thinner walled and,if done by the book,needs a insert in the ID to maintain wall strength. It is also bent by hand without a bending tool
Half/hard is what im using here,no insert.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> How does this locking ring work? Does it bend the end of the pipe or can you reuse them? Good guide by the way, OCN needed one


It has teeth in a ring which,when pulled up,bite in to the pipe and stop the pipe coming out..


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Can I also use a dremel or a saw to cut copper tubing?


You can,but you will need to some work on the ends,rounding them off so they dont snag or mark the oring on the inside.
I use a cutter as it rounds the leading edge as you cut it


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## yanks8981

Well now you've just made me interested in something that my wife would probably tell me I don't need to be interested in









+rep!


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## RKTGX95

"...But everything changed when the Pipe-Benders attacked" (i just HAD to)

interesting read, IMO simple tubing will suffice.


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## PCCstudent

I statred some discussions about using copper pipe back when I first joined.The discussions did not get past the "we call it pipe not tubing" stage.It is good to see you are getting further.I use the 1/2" copper pipe that is originally intended for refridgeration work and buy standard compression (the one time and it is set type of compression fitting) fittings off the Koolance site.More so than the look, you do get some ability to radiate heat from the exposed copper pipe.


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> I statred some discussions about using copper pipe back when I first joined.The discussions did not get past the "we call it pipe not tubing" stage.It is good to see you are getting further.I use the 1/2" copper pipe that is originally intended for refridgeration work and buy standard compression (the one time and it is set type of compression fitting) fittings off the Koolance site.More so than the look, you do get some ability to radiate heat from the exposed copper pipe.


I was originally going to use the koolance fittings but the push fits are a third the price and reusable...compression olives also need a good amount of force and sealant to seal right.
They do look nice tho


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## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> "...But everything changed when the Pipe-Benders attacked" (i just HAD to)
> interesting read, IMO simple tubing will suffice.


A lot of things would suffice, but this is OCN


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## PCCstudent

Your bender is a bit modest.I bought the one rated to bend 1/2" stainless.I think I like yours better.


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## Psychosis5150

Wish I would have known about those aquatuning fittings before starting my build.


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## derickwm

Sweet, glad to see this. Bookmarked.


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## Boweezie

OP. How much did the chrome plating cost you? Or did you buy it already plated? I wanted to get an estimate on how much chrome plating ran you. So far everyone that I have called has given me a price range from $250-$380 to plate 10ft. of 1/2" copper tubing. Pretty expensive IMO.

Also, anyone have a tutorial on how to polish these pipes to a mirror finish?


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> OP. How much did the chrome plating cost you? Or did you buy it already plated? I wanted to get an estimate on how much chrome plating ran you. So far everyone that I have called has given me a price range from $250-$380 to plate 10ft. of 1/2" copper tubing. Pretty expensive IMO.
> Also, anyone have a tutorial on how to polish these pipes to a mirror finish?


I got mine pre plated,you need to be careful with pre plated pipe,you can crack the chrome when you bend it.


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## slayer677

This is great guide, maybe include how you put them in the fittings? If there's some special you have to do so it doesn't leak or w/e


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## Dyson Poindexter

Now that we are using copper pipe, can we move from water to 134a?


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## gdesmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyson Poindexter*
> 
> Now that we are using copper pipe, can we move from water to 134a?


You might as well look into phase change units then.


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## spitty13

Can you use compression fittings like you can with normal tubing or do have to add some sort of o-ring? Looks awesome btw


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## Boweezie

Finally got my bender







Copper tubing will be here tomorrow!


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## FearXI

Bookmarked.

Something I may do down the road.

What kind of maintenance would one expect going with copper tubing other than normal?


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## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spitty13*
> 
> Can you use compression fittings like you can with normal tubing or do have to add some sort of o-ring? Looks awesome btw


Unfortunately, normal compression fittings will not work because they squeeze the plastic tubing with an air tight seal the more you trun them. You cannot do this for copper pipng since it keeps its shape and cannot be squeezed. A normal 1/4 BP SLI fitting would work. Cheaper than compression fittings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FearXI*
> 
> Bookmarked.
> Something I may do down the road.
> What kind of maintenance would one expect going with copper tubing other than normal?


I don't see any maintanence issues with copper because all houses have them and no one touches them for decades. Not sure about dyes, but I don't think that should be an issue either.


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## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FearXI*
> 
> Bookmarked.
> 
> Something I may do down the road.
> 
> What kind of maintenance would one expect going with copper tubing other than normal?


It should be less, as you won't ever have to change tubing unless you change something in your system, this is the main reason I'm going copper.


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## FearXI

Thanks.

Future project for sure.


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> It should be less, as you won't ever have to change tubing unless you change something in your system, this is the main reason I'm going copper.


Let me know when you do this GoodInk,i will help you if you get stuck...not that you will i think


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## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> It should be less, as you won't ever have to change tubing unless you change something in your system, this is the main reason I'm going copper.
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know when you do this GoodInk,i will help you if you get stuck...not that you will i think
Click to expand...

I have 10 meters on the way right now, so I'll have some to mess up, lol. It's soft copper, I'm going to try the filling it with water and freezing it method for bending. I'm make a small jig to make the bends with, I'll see how tight I can get the bends this way. It's going in Potentia et Decor build and my new Trooper. I was thinking about painting them red for Potentia et Decor. I'm thinking copper on aluminum isn't going to look the best. You got any tips for that?


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## Gbyte

i love the clean look of the pipes, thanks B Negative for the info, this something for y next build


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I have 10 meters on the way right now, so I'll have some to mess up, lol. It's soft copper, I'm going to try the filling it with water and freezing it method for bending. I'm make a small jig to make the bends with, I'll see how tight I can get the bends this way. It's going in Potentia et Decor build and my new Trooper. I was thinking about painting them red for Potentia et Decor. I'm thinking copper on aluminum isn't going to look the best. You got any tips for that?


If you went for the annealed pipe (coiled) then you need pipe inserts for the ends or it wont work,it will just collapse.


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## gdesmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I have 10 meters on the way right now, so I'll have some to mess up, lol. It's soft copper, I'm going to try the filling it with water and freezing it method for bending. I'm make a small jig to make the bends with, I'll see how tight I can get the bends this way. It's going in Potentia et Decor build and my new Trooper. I was thinking about painting them red for Potentia et Decor. I'm thinking copper on aluminum isn't going to look the best. You got any tips for that?


For bending tubing you should try using fine sand and solder caps on either end, obviously you leave the pipes a little long so you can just cut them off. Done it many a time, master plumber of 35 years. Good Luck !


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## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you went for the annealed pipe (coiled) then you need pipe inserts for the ends or it wont work,it will just collapse.


Can you give a link of what you are referring to B? I'm lost and I have annealed copper. Getting nasty bends. I think i might have to sand my bender too, its leaving marks after every bend


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## WebsterXC

+rep

Was planning on doing this for an upcoming build, this will help greatly. What kind of tubing is that? Aluminum? Where did you buy it?

EDIT: Nevermind, figured it out myself.


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdesmo*
> 
> For bending tubing you should try using fine sand and solder caps on either end, obviously you leave the pipes a little long so you can just cut them off. Done it many a time, master plumber of 35 years. Good Luck !


I too am a plumber of many years,your technique is not a good one for half hard pipe,you won't get even bends...if you are set for doing it this way,a pipe spring is better and less messy.


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Can you give a link of what you are referring to B? I'm lost and I have annealed copper. Getting nasty bends. I think i might have to sand my bender too, its leaving marks after every bend


Annealed pipe is bent by hand,normally without tools,the walls are too soft for a bender. You can use a bender and many do but it can mark the tube easily
I will dig up the insert link for you when im back from work.


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## Spacedinvader

one of these doodahs eh? http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=internal+pipe+bending+spring&hl=en&gbv=2&um=1&tbo=u&tbm=shop&tab=wf&oq=internal+pipe+bending+spring&gs_l=serp.3...71656.71656.0.72141.1.1.0.0.0.0.110.110.0j1.1.0...0.0...1c.jVi_rZpT4qM


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## mandrix

I am so glad to see this post. Kudos to OP and all the contributors!
Because of prices of plating it would seem optimal to start with plated copper pipe? I think I saw it's hard to locate in US and I know I didn't have much luck.(need to go back and follow all the links I guess)
I have a set of the spring benders, used them many times. I actually used to bend a lot of stainless tubing (1/8) for Argon & Hydrogen gas lines at work years ago for my Lab test equipment, but I used the Swagelock fittings for all that, and bigger than 1/8 stainless would be a bear to bend by hand w/o a bender I think. Looks pretty sweet though not quite as shiny as chrome

As soon as the wife gets over the cost of my current build I'm going to seriously look into getting the tubing/bender. I love fabbing stuff up even though my tools are limited. For what I spent on compression fittings I don't see how it could be worse going tubing/connectors? Will see I guess down the road.
I see a serious trend starting with more and more opting to go this route, thanks in no small part to this guide.


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## gdesmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I too am a plumber of many years,your technique is not a good one for half hard pipe,you won't get even bends...if you are set for doing it this way,a pipe spring is better and less messy.


He said annealed pipe in that thread ,sorry I did not realize you are using hard pipe in which case I would heat it up with a turbo-torch to soften also use a tubing bender which I forgot to add earlier. btw I use only plastic in my loops, seen too much copper in my life already. lol


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## B NEGATIVE

Me and you both!
Hate to think how many miles of tube I have cut,bent and welded in my time.....


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## Aleckazee

wow this is actually really interesting, nice guide. considering doing this for my next build


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## p00ter71

A good guide,but you do know there is a right and a left mark on the benders for a reason.You shouldnt have to mark and measure your radius.Journeyman Steamfitter here.I use benders just about everyday at work.If your measuring from right to left you use the right mark.If your measuring from left to right u use the left mark.


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## B NEGATIVE

I find those marks to vary wildly,accuracy is key for 180 point to point bends,the tolerances on these fittings need precise bending.

You are also wrong about their usage,they are there to tell you the minimum length to make the bend cleanly,too short and the pipe collapses in the bender or wont leave you enough tail to solder a fitting on to


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## Boweezie

A sneak peek into my build. I must say that I am liking everything so far! Just waiting for the rest of the fittings to get here. Can't wait see these pipes polished


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## WebsterXC

Very nice work! That bend upwards to the reservoir looked difficult


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## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebsterXC*
> 
> Very nice work! That bend upwards to the reservoir looked difficult


Thanks! Yeah that bend looks a bit hard, but is pretty easy once you have bent 5 or 6 pipes. I should be getting all my fittings in by the end of the week to show everyone my full guide.

I am having a hard time polishing. Anyone know of a good guide to follow? I sanded one of my pipes and I think I used the wrong grit (220 I think) and now my polish doesn't do anything to make it look better.







But I did use polish on a normal non sanded piece of tubing and it looks AMAZING! Mirror finish and all! Only problem is that all my pieces of tubing have been sanded on the ends so I need to find a way to get those pipes to a mirror finish.


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## Fuganater

You gotta use like 2000 grit but have to step up to it probably. Just like lapping a CPU


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## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> You gotta use like 2000 grit but have to step up to it probably. Just like lapping a CPU


Ah ok, go step by step to finer and finer sand paper. Gotcha! Thanks, will try tonight!


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## B NEGATIVE

Try a cutting compound and a polishing wheel , it will look amazing.


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## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Try a cutting compound and a polishing wheel , it will look amazing.


Yeah I think I have one for my dremel. Will try tonight and post some pics.


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## MME1122

Amazing guide here so far, bookmarked









Polishing is something I know a little about. There are copper cleaners and polishing compounds, the compounds are usually pastes or like a clay and are more aggressive than cleaners which tend to be like a squirt bottle. If you get yourself a mirror finish and it fades over time a little spray cleaner and a rag is all you need, but to get the original shine a compound and buffing wheel if what you'll need.

I don't use anything specific really just whatever is on sale when I need it







Here's a link to a clay-like compound, they tend to be good for polishing raw copper: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Aluminum-Copper-Polishing-Compound/dp/B000OVPG0E

But if you roughly sanded it like Boweezie you'll have to step up the sand paper like everyone said. Then polish it up with a compound.


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## deafboy

lol. I was just about to make this thread.... obviously couldn't have even thought about it without talks with you a while back.

Doing this for my TJ07 build.


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## GoodInk

I'm not even going to mess with the water method. After some searching, I have yet to see anyone do it with success. Can I use a 1/2" pipe bender with 12mm tubing? I have the tubing but can't find a 12mm bender that is under $85


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## WebsterXC

The sanding polishing method, yes like everyone said is gradually going up in grits.

To be more specific, 220 is way too coarse. Start at something like 400, then jump to 800, 1600, 2000, and finish off at 2400 (with 1600+ being wet sanding). Then take your choice of polish and polish the tubes up and they'll look sweet









The sanding method is extremely tedious but can yield mirror finish results, just like lapping.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I'm not even going to mess with the water method. After some searching, I have yet to see anyone do it with success. Can I use a 1/2" pipe bender with 12mm tubing? I have the tubing but can't find a 12mm bender that is under $85


I would imagine a 1/2" bender would work, I don't see why not since12mm is only .03" off of 1/2". I don't see how pipe benders are so expensive to be honest. If someone was wanting to go balls out on 3/4" piping, prepare to drop $110+ on a bender.


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## Boweezie

Yeah pipe benders are pretty expensive to buy. I bought a used one from ebay for $40 but the alignment was off, so I had to sand some of the clamping area in order to stop making nasty creases in my pipes. Its a 1/2" bender at it works pretty well. Only downside is that I am using annealed copper piping, which can have massive creasing in the bends if the piping is not packed with anything inside. All in all, it worked out ok.

On a side note, my piping is almost complete! Just need to sand down one more pipe and put it all together for a leak test tonight! Should have everything polished by the end of this week


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## Shadow_Foxx

So would this one work, it does say 10mm in the description, so im assuming. Not sure of the price yet, but found it on the rathenberger USA site:



http://www.rothenberger-usa.com/uploads/media/Section_1_-_Expanding_bending.pdf


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## sortableturnip

Would these Bitspower Ultimate fittings work?


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Yeah pipe benders are pretty expensive to buy. I bought a used one from ebay for $40 but the alignment was off, so I had to sand some of the clamping area in order to stop making nasty creases in my pipes. Its a 1/2" bender at it works pretty well. Only downside is that I am using annealed copper piping, which can have massive creasing in the bends if the piping is not packed with anything inside. All in all, it worked out ok.
> On a side note, my piping is almost complete! Just need to sand down one more pipe and put it all together for a leak test tonight! Should have everything polished by the end of this week


You should use a bending spring rather than benders on annealed pipe
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> So would this one work, it does say 10mm in the description, so im assuming. Not sure of the price yet, but found it on the rathenberger USA site:
> 
> http://www.rothenberger-usa.com/uploads/media/Section_1_-_Expanding_bending.pdf


Rothenberger are what i recommend,good bits of kit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Would these Bitspower Ultimate fittings work?


No. They are for plastic tube.
You want the Sli BP fittings or the Phobya Sli fittings for 12mm,Koolance do a traditional olive type compression in 12mm and 10mm.


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## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Would these Bitspower Ultimate fittings work?


No they would not work. Those are compression fittings. For 12mm piping, you need need BitsPower SLI multi link fittings.


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You should use a bending spring rather than benders on annealed pipe
> Rothenberger are what i recommend,good bits of kit
> No. They are for plastic tube.
> You want the Sli BP fittings or the Phobya Sli fittings for 12mm,Koolance do a traditional olive type compression in 12mm and 10mm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> No they would not work. Those are compression fittings. For 12mm piping, you need need BitsPower SLI multi link fittings.


I found 2 different fittings...Which fitting would you use this or this?


----------



## Skoobs

this is absolutely gorgeous. i would kill to do this in my rig...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I found 2 different fittings...Which fitting would you use this or this?


Use the first linked fitting,the mini fitting has only one o-ring


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Use the first linked fitting,the mini fitting has only one o-ring


This might be a stupid question, but how does it prevent leaking? Do you have to put a sealant around the fitting?


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> This might be a stupid question, but how does it prevent leaking? Do you have to put a sealant around the fitting?


The o-rings and just a good tight fit. No different that compression fittings and tubing really, except I would saw there are less tolerances using pipe.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Yeah pipe benders are pretty expensive to buy. I bought a used one from ebay for $40 but the alignment was off, so I had to sand some of the clamping area in order to stop making nasty creases in my pipes. Its a 1/2" bender at it works pretty well. Only downside is that I am using annealed copper piping, which can have massive creasing in the bends if the piping is not packed with anything inside. All in all, it worked out ok.
> On a side note, my piping is almost complete! Just need to sand down one more pipe and put it all together for a leak test tonight! Should have everything polished by the end of this week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should use a bending spring rather than benders on annealed pipe
Click to expand...

How tight of a bend can you get with springs?


----------



## sortableturnip

I wonder if you could use this PVC clear rigid tubing instead?


----------



## longroadtrip

It doesn't bend and you would see the glue when you used elbows...


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I wonder if you could use this PVC clear rigid tubing instead?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> It doesn't bend and you would see the glue when you used elbows...






But you'll need to find 12mm tubing and use the Bitspower connectors.


----------



## longroadtrip

Good to know!


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Good to know!


If you find 12mm tubing let me know, this is the route I wanted to go but I couldn't find any 12mm tubing


----------



## longroadtrip

Can't believe I didn't think of bending acrylic (tubing)








I'll keep my eyes out for 12mm...seems like it could really be a viable option


----------



## sortableturnip

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-10-Clear-Acrylic-Tube-12mm-x-1mm-x-500mm-Plastic-Plexiglas-Perspex-Pipe-/290706496665?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43af751c99
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Acrylic-tube-diameter-12mm-thickness2mm-plexiglass-tube/512731_579107485.html
http://export.rsdelivers.com/product/rs/4084018/acrylic-tube-12mm-od-8mm-id-1000mm-l/4084018.aspx


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-10-Clear-Acrylic-Tube-12mm-x-1mm-x-500mm-Plastic-Plexiglas-Perspex-Pipe-/290706496665?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43af751c99
> http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Acrylic-tube-diameter-12mm-thickness2mm-plexiglass-tube/512731_579107485.html
> http://export.rsdelivers.com/product/rs/4084018/acrylic-tube-12mm-od-8mm-id-1000mm-l/4084018.aspx


I guess I should have said in the US. I looked up aliexpress and they have nothing but bad reviews. I'll have to check to see what the shipping is like with rs delivers. Good finds though, + Rep


----------



## ChickenInferno

In case someone was looking for a higher quality/more versatile tube cutter: Swagelok MS-TC-308 $47.56

I also use a swagelok tube bender at work and can get >180° bend in 24mm on 10mm tubing with the swagelok hand tube bender.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I guess I should have said in the US. I looked up aliexpress and they have nothing but bad reviews. I'll have to check to see what the shipping is like with rs delivers. Good finds though, + Rep


If you find good options let me know, I have looked long and hard for 12mm acrylic tubing, and theplasticsshop.co.uk was the only one that had it and would ship internationally. Only problem, minimum order is 10 meters, and shipping alone is like 115 dollars. Ive emailed everyone who I could find in the country, even looked into doing it custom, no dice. I( refuse to order from china, and the only vendor selling it on aliexpress had no reviews, so screw that. Its ridiculous, let me know if you find a good option!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I guess I should have said in the US. I looked up aliexpress and they have nothing but bad reviews. I'll have to check to see what the shipping is like with rs delivers. Good finds though, + Rep


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> If you find good options let me know, I have looked long and hard for 12mm acrylic tubing, and theplasticsshop.co.uk was the only one that had it and would ship internationally. Only problem, minimum order is 10 meters, and shipping alone is like 115 dollars. Ive emailed everyone who I could find in the country, even looked into doing it custom, no dice. I( refuse to order from china, and the only vendor selling it on aliexpress had no reviews, so screw that. Its ridiculous, let me know if you find a good option!


Im currently experimenting with glass tubing,will do a 101 when i have got the technique down and tested. all you need for this is a Bunsen burner and patience!

http://www.glass-solutions.co.uk/glass-tubing.html


----------



## Boyboyd

Beautiful, great craftsmanship too.

Thanks for the guide.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I guess I should have said in the US. I looked up aliexpress and they have nothing but bad reviews. I'll have to check to see what the shipping is like with rs delivers. Good finds though, + Rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you find good options let me know, I have looked long and hard for 12mm acrylic tubing, and theplasticsshop.co.uk was the only one that had it and would ship internationally. Only problem, minimum order is 10 meters, and shipping alone is like 115 dollars. Ive emailed everyone who I could find in the country, even looked into doing it custom, no dice. I( refuse to order from china, and the only vendor selling it on aliexpress had no reviews, so screw that. Its ridiculous, let me know if you find a good option!
Click to expand...

I know the feeling. I had found some once, but it's not listed anymore. I'm guessing it was a custom job that didn't get paid for or it was left overs. I should have bought it when I had the chance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> I guess I should have said in the US. I looked up aliexpress and they have nothing but bad reviews. I'll have to check to see what the shipping is like with rs delivers. Good finds though, + Rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> If you find good options let me know, I have looked long and hard for 12mm acrylic tubing, and theplasticsshop.co.uk was the only one that had it and would ship internationally. Only problem, minimum order is 10 meters, and shipping alone is like 115 dollars. Ive emailed everyone who I could find in the country, even looked into doing it custom, no dice. I( refuse to order from china, and the only vendor selling it on aliexpress had no reviews, so screw that. Its ridiculous, let me know if you find a good option!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im currently experimenting with glass tubing,will do a 101 when i have got the technique down and tested. all you need for this is a Bunsen burner and patience!
> 
> http://www.glass-solutions.co.uk/glass-tubing.html
Click to expand...

That would look sooooo good. I can here it now, WHAT TUBING IS THAT? It looks like glass!!!


----------



## Boweezie

Man LOL everyone is thinking exactly like me!







Now that I am almost done with my copper tubing, I really want to try out acrylic tubing to have some nice dye colors flowing in there. Glad everyone is 10 steps ahead of me and giving great suggestions where to buy tubing from. I am a little hesitant of trying glass tubing because of the fragility of glass and the equipment that is needed to bend it. Anyways, good luck B Negative, show us your work when done!

My copper piping would be all complete, but unfortunately, I have had a small leak that needs to be addressed. Hoping to get that all done by today. Sigh, I need to be at home working on my rig and not at work LOL


----------



## sortableturnip

Does the tubing have to be 12mm? Couldn't you just use 1/2 in?


----------



## Fuganater

Glass? Won't it become really brittle because your heating it and bending it?


----------



## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> Does the tubing have to be 12mm? Couldn't you just use 1/2 in?


The problem with 1/2" tubing is that it is too thick to insert into the fittings. You can buy 1/2" piping, but you need to sand down all the ends which takes FOREVER. I would go with 12mm piping and skip the hassle.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Glass? Won't it become really brittle because your heating it and bending it?


lab glass hopefully doesnt behave like that,thats what the testing is for.


----------



## Defunctronin

great guide! +rep!


----------



## cmac19749

Are you in the US, or where are you from? From what I have heard the standard fittings (like the ones that you used) won't work on US pipes. I am looking to do a complete rebuild and using highly polished copper pipe for the water cooling.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmac19749*
> 
> Are you in the US, or where are you from? From what I have heard the standard fittings (like the ones that you used) won't work on US pipes. I am looking to do a complete rebuild and using highly polished copper pipe for the water cooling.


Im from the UK.

In the OP there is a list of 12mm OD pipe suppliers specifically for the US residents,12mm is a standard size in the UK so i didnt include us.


----------



## zzzz

z


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzzz*
> 
> why? what do they do? is the equipment expensive?


Yeah, it requires tanks of chemicals, lots of dyes, electrical equipment, etc...

In essence, you COULD do it yourself, but it would definitely be expensive.


----------



## zzzz

z


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> lab glass hopefully doesnt behave like that,thats what the testing is for.


If you use the proper glass, heating it for shaping is not going to make it brittle. You will want to use high quality lab grade glass tubing though. There are plenty of places that will custom bend glass, many universities often have someone proficient in glass blowing/bending. If you can hook up with someone at university he/she might can give you some tips, it takes some practice to get a smooth bend but definitely doable. I made many a 90* elbow bend when I was working in a R&D lab.

I like the idea of acrylic over glass myself, a shock across the width of even high grade glass tubing can break it pretty easily. But if you go for it I would not use metal fittings, though, I would stick with the plastic ones if they are available with G 1/4. Some of the scientific suppliers might have it, Fisher, Cole-Parmer etc.


----------



## WebsterXC

I feel like glass would hold up under higher pressure too.

Not that it matters too much for our applications, but if someone wants to get all fancy and do a bunch of loops and coils...


----------



## somebadlemonade

the only problem i'd see with glass is making sure it stays in the fitting, since lock rings and things like that might crack it

past that it seems like a decent enough way to avoid clouding. . . i had to go there


----------



## WebsterXC

It seems like it would just be cheaper and easier to replace the tubing when it clouds though.

I don't know. While it may seem impractical, I am very eager for someone to pull this off. In the right application it would look beautiful...


----------



## somebadlemonade

wait wouldn't there be galvanic corrosion between the stainless and the copper so you're have to run inhibitor in your loop?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> the only problem i'd see with glass is making sure it stays in the fitting, since lock rings and things like that might crack it
> past that it seems like a decent enough way to avoid clouding. . . i had to go there


That's why I suggested the plastic fittings if there are any that can be used for this. They have the plastic ferrule and cap and wont damage the glass when tightened. They don't look as nice as compression fittings we normally use, though.


----------



## WebsterXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> wait wouldn't there be galvanic corrosion between the stainless and the copper so you're have to run inhibitor in your loop?


Does corrosion inhibitor fluid even work? Sorry it's a bit off topic, but it's a good chance to get a question answered. Seems to me like it would only go so far. Maybe I just have trust issues though


----------



## somebadlemonade

inhibitor works good enough for car manufacturers to put in the radiators in their cars, with the aluminum rads and the steel engine blocks

though they tend to gunk up after a while, though after i looked around a bit, they have bendable copper tubing at mcmaster-car
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-tubing/=ikxjgv

i'm not sure if that link will work

looks like it won't well it's under copper tubing, not the metric copper tubing sold as 3/8 tubing, with an OD of 1/2" and an ID of .436" which should work just find, as for the 3/8" OD tubing it's ID is just a bit over 1/4" which is pretty bad


----------



## GoodInk

OK guys I need some help here. I have this tubing https://coppertubingsales.com/storefront/product_info.php?cPath=223_212&products_id=1178
and a 1/2 spring bender. The problem I'm having is just getting it to bend. I'm using all my weight and can't even get a full 90 degree bend. The other problem I'm having it how in the heck am I suppose to measure using a spring bender? Or going to have to bite it and buy a real bender?


----------



## somebadlemonade

you might want to get a square of some kind that way you can see how far you've bent it


----------



## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> OK guys I need some help here. I have this tubing https://coppertubingsales.com/storefront/product_info.php?cPath=223_212&products_id=1178
> and a 1/2 spring bender. The problem I'm having is just getting it to bend. I'm using all my weight and can't even get a full 90 degree bend. The other problem I'm having it how in the heck am I suppose to measure using a spring bender? Or going to have to bite it and buy a real bender?


A real bender would save a lot of time and energy. Plus you can measure out your bends. IF you stick to the spring benders, you will waste a ton of copper.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> OK guys I need some help here. I have this tubing https://coppertubingsales.com/storefront/product_info.php?cPath=223_212&products_id=1178
> and a 1/2 spring bender. The problem I'm having is just getting it to bend. I'm using all my weight and can't even get a full 90 degree bend. The other problem I'm having it how in the heck am I suppose to measure using a spring bender? Or going to have to bite it and buy a real bender?


Buy a real bender,springs are ok.....if you live in 1980.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> OK guys I need some help here. I have this tubing https://coppertubingsales.com/storefront/product_info.php?cPath=223_212&products_id=1178
> and a 1/2 spring bender. The problem I'm having is just getting it to bend. I'm using all my weight and can't even get a full 90 degree bend. The other problem I'm having it how in the heck am I suppose to measure using a spring bender? Or going to have to bite it and buy a real bender?
> 
> 
> 
> Buy a real bender,springs are ok.....if you live in 1980.
Click to expand...

They must have been stronger back then to. I feel like I need to use a hammer to get this stuff to bend. I'm putting so much pressure on it the tubing is heating up.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> They must have been stronger back then to. I feel like I need to use a hammer to get this stuff to bend. I'm putting so much pressure on it the tubing is heating up.


You are limited by the spring itself,it can only compress so much on the inner radius.


----------



## Boweezie

Just a sneak peek into how my copper polishing is going


----------



## WebsterXC

Ooooh pretty


----------



## deafboy

Be sure to seal it when you're done.... protect that shiny finish


----------



## Tenkey

One question if im going to use 12mm pipes how does the bp fitting secure the pipe?


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tenkey*
> 
> One question if im going to use 12mm pipes how does the bp fitting secure the pipe?


plain old friction, and that's why the thread creator said to not do 180 degree turns with the 12mm stuff

oh and instead of glass you can do it with polycarbonate tubing
or acrylic tubing

they would probably be easier to work with than glass, since all you need is a heat gun


----------



## fofamit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html


Even though Aquatuning United States ships to Canada for these fittings, does anyone else know of any other place where you can get fittings like these that ship to Canada? I'd rather not have to pay $26 for shipping and probably another $10-20 in Duty (since UPS is cool like that) for $20 worth of fittings.


----------



## deafboy

For those that want it on mcmaster-carr but hate having to click on the link then narrow down the different options...

just search: 9935K15


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> For those that want it on mcmaster-carr but hate having to click on the link then narrow down the different options...
> just search: 9935K15


you'd have to take a torch to that tubing unless you want it to kink on you

8967K5 or 8967K24 would be what you want

and with how the 10mm OD tubing has an ID of just under 5/16(8mm) wouldn't that hurt the flow rate? the straight metric tubing is unannealed/half-hard and the coils are 10 meters long that's crazy


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> you'd have to take a torch to that tubing unless you want it to kink on you
> 8967K5 or 8967K24 would be what you want
> and with how the 10mm OD tubing has an ID of just under 5/16(8mm) wouldn't that hurt the flow rate? the straight metric tubing is unannealed/half-hard and the coils are 10 meters long that's crazy


How do you figure that? 1/2 hard and 0.007" thicker walled than what the standard is

Your blocks/rads will be more restricting that the tubing by far.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> How do you figure that?


what that it'll kink on you if you don't anneal it? at least in the smaller radius that a pipe bender will do
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> 1/2 hard and 0.007" thicker walled than what the standard is
> Your blocks/rads will be more restricting that the tubing by far.


i was actually asking, i wasn't trying to sound condescending if you took it that way, since i was thinking about drinking through a coffee straw compared to a normal straw


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> what that it'll kink on you if you don't anneal it? at least in the smaller radius that a pipe bender will do
> i was actually asking, i wasn't trying to sound condescending if you took it that way, since i was thinking about drinking through a coffee straw compared to a normal straw


Pretty sure the OP used 1/2 hard 10mm tubing...

My apologies. I honestly am not sure, I certainly wouldn't worry about it. Plenty of people on here use 3/8 tubing. Can't imagine 1/8" make that big of a difference.


----------



## Z32

Bending jokes aside, this is great! It's making me reconsider water cooling again. Definitely sub'd now.
Interested in seeing the copper pipes polished, too








800 grit ->1200->2000->polish


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> *Pretty sure the OP used 1/2 hard 10mm tubing...*
> My apologies. I honestly am not sure, I certainly wouldn't worry about it. Plenty of people on here use 3/8 tubing. Can't imagine 1/8" make that big of a difference.


Yes i did,with no pre heating and with no kinks. All this talk of using a torch to make the bend is unnecessary.
The tube i use has a 8.5mm ID.

Flow is unaffected.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes i did,with no pre heating and with no kinks.
> The tube i use has a 9mm ID.
> Flow is unaffected.


I'm assuming the thicker walled ones I referenced would be just fine, double the wall thickness granted but can't imagine an additional 0.5mm thickness would cause much trouble with proper benders.

Nice flow







That's awesome.


----------



## Tenkey

Is copper pipe the only way to go? I see some people get their pipes nickel plated afterwards, cant i just get nickel pipes or chrome pipes to start with?


----------



## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tenkey*
> 
> Is copper pipe the only way to go? I see some people get their pipes nickel plated afterwards, cant i just get nickel pipes or chrome pipes to start with?


That would be the best way to go if you are looking for chrome/nickel plating. If you can find a place that has these pipes for a reasonable price, please let us know







The problem is that, chrome plating is not cheap, so I would assume that trying to buy 10 feet would be very expensive.


----------



## AntiStupid

Subbed! awesome thread.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> That would be the best way to go if you are looking for chrome/nickel plating. If you can find a place that has these pipes for a reasonable price, please let us know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is that, chrome plating is not cheap, so I would assume that trying to buy 10 feet would be very expensive.


Actually,its better to plate afterwards as chrome can crack badly when its bent.

I was lucky with my pipe.


----------



## Tenkey

Ouch seems like i cant order from mcmaster, anyone know where i can get 12mm pipes in Canada or online stores that ship internationally....

And to Boweezie there are some chrome tubings on mcmaster i think although the prices are just way to high....


----------



## somebadlemonade

http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-to-connect-tube-fittings/=iq31on and then search for 5225K514 you get bspp 1/4"(g 1/4") to 12mm push in tubing fittings
they aren't as cheap as the 10mm fittings on aquatuning, but aquatuning doesn't have 12mm fittings

wait never mind they are intended as air fittings so i'm not sure if they would work with water/coolant


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-to-connect-tube-fittings/=iq31on and then search for 5225K514 you get bspp 1/4"(g 1/4") to 12mm push in tubing fittings
> they aren't as cheap as the 10mm fittings on aquatuning, but aquatuning doesn't have 12mm fittings
> wait never mind they are intended as air fittings so i'm not sure if they would work with water/coolant


I feel like if you're using those you would just get the 1/2" model as it's easier/cheaper to source 1/2" pipe?


----------



## somebadlemonade

not really since the size 1/2" pipe isn't actually 1/2" od, you have to get special pipe either way, the tubing listed in this thread is the right size, but if you didn't have a fitting on hand to test out the pipe in a hardware store you'll likely buy the wrong size


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> not really since the size 1/2" pipe isn't actually 1/2" od, you have to get special pipe either way, the tubing listed in this thread is the right size, but if you didn't have a fitting on hand to test out the pipe in a hardware store you'll likely buy the wrong size


What do you mean? If that's the case you could say the same thing about 12mm fittings and pipe. lol.


----------



## somebadlemonade

no, because the stuff you can find in the states is actually 12mm, in the states you have to watch out when buying pipe if it says nominal it's not actually the size they sell it as


----------



## deafboy

Interesting...


----------



## somebadlemonade

well that's when it comes to copper and steel pipe at least

if it's polycarbonate or acrylic or glass the size they sell it as is the size it is within tolerance at least


----------



## deafboy

Definitely going to be bringing a fitting with me whenever I go pickup the pipe. lol.


----------



## Boweezie

Just wanted to show you guys one of my final pics with copper piping







You can see the rest in my sig if you want


----------



## ElGreco

I just discovered this thread and... i am astonished!

Great ideas, fantastic job









Thank you!


----------



## d_yin

I've obtained some acrylic tubing to experiment with ...12mm OD 8mm ID around 4 meter
I got some question though ....

1. How do you measure where to bend since I'm not bending it using any tools just a heat gun
2. Multiple bend ... hard or ...just give up ?
3. The ID are 8mm so 1mm thicker than the bits sli connector does this affect the temperature greatly or just ignore ...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d_yin*
> 
> I've obtained some acrylic tubing to experiment with ...12mm OD 8mm ID around 4 meter
> I got some question though ....
> 1. How do you measure where to bend since I'm not bending it using any tools just a heat gun
> 2. Multiple bend ... hard or ...just give up ?
> 3. The ID are 8mm so 1mm thicker than the bits sli connector does this affect the temperature greatly or just ignore ...


It's a piece of silicon tube, it's flexible, doesn't stick to plastic, and keeps its roundness when bent.

You attached it to a piece of wire (press fit) and put it up the tube



You then set it in the position You want it to be in (you can see the black mark for where the bent centre should be) and then You heat up an area 2-3 times the diamter, so, say for 3/8" tubing you would doing about an inch, but for 3/4, youd be looking for at least 2 1/2" minimum.



Heat it by rolling the tube and making sure you have even heat, (wear a heatproof glove on one hand at least!) when it all goes soft, and starts to bend under it's own weight, put it in the position you want it, and wait till it cools.

you should have a nice bend if you got it right.



then, slooowly pull out the silicon tube, and you should have a nice clean bend.

Silicon tube is used in model aircraft as fuel tube and exhaust couplers.


----------



## d_yin

I think I saw those pic in an aquatic forum to make those lily pipe right ?

Is it urs ?

Silicon tube is the same as those air tubing using in aquatic or not ? scared it would melt


----------



## Fuganater

Thats awesome BNeg!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d_yin*
> 
> I think I saw those pic in an aquatic forum to make those lily pipe right ?
> Is it urs ?
> Silicon tube is the same as those air tubing using in aquatic or not ? scared it would melt


My good friend Pete gave me this method,he is the Aquatic nut.
I just re-purposed it.

Silicone requires a lot of heat to melt,much more than the acrylic tube.


----------



## d_yin

ok gonna grab some of those air tube then








I got 4 meter to fool around







. To my surprise those acrylic tube are kinda strong not brittle as I imagined it would be.... and kinda cheap


----------



## regles

Can anyone tell me if these fittings will hold the tubing? They look like they should be for 12mm tube and they are reasonably priced.
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p5187_variable-SLI-Crossfire-VID-connection-nipple-G1-4----1-Slot----black-nickel.html

I wanted to go with the Bitspower fitting but to get it shipped to Canada would be 26 dollars when the fitting cost only 24 dollars.

Also, do you think an 8mm ID would be too restrictive?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Those fittings work fine.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *regles*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if these fittings will hold the tubing? They look like they should be for 12mm tube and they are reasonably priced.
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p5187_variable-SLI-Crossfire-VID-connection-nipple-G1-4----1-Slot----black-nickel.html
> I wanted to go with the Bitspower fitting but to get it shipped to Canada would be 26 dollars when the fitting cost only 24 dollars.
> Also, do you think an 8mm ID would be too restrictive?


after i googled the hell out of it, 8mm id or roughly 5/16" id isn't that restrictive if you are using push-in fittings the tubing as a whole would have a bit more pressure drop then most cpu water blocks at 1.5gpm with 2 meters of tubing it came out to 1.81psi total for a straight tube, and 0.12psi for every 90 degrees of bend at 2" radius, 0.13psi for every entrance that isn't rounded, 0.01psi for rounded
listed for easier consumption:
2m of 8mm = 1.81 psi of pressure drop
90 degrees of bend at 2 inch radius = 0.1 psi of pressure drop
and since entrances are = 0.01psi drop just make sure they are rounded and you would have to worry about it

http://www.pressure-drop.com/Online-Calculator/index.html

now compare those to 10mm id tubing
2m of 10mm = 0.62 psi
per 90 degrees of bend at 2" radius = 0.05 psi
per rounded entrance = 0.01 psi

now 13mm id tubing
2m of 13mm = 0.18 psi
90 degrees of bend at 2" radius = 0.02 psi
per rounded entrance = 0.00 psi

but yea add up all the pressure dropped across your loop if it's less than your pump can put out, say for instance an mcp35x can put out 22psi, just don't go overboard with the crazy straw look and you should be fine with 8mm id tubing















(the closest emoticons to nerding out)


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you'll need to find 12mm tubing and use the Bitspower connectors.


Is it just me, or is this a better way to use pipes in your build than copper?

You still get those sharper than Tygon Tubing pipe curves and straight lines, you still get to SEE the water (how do you bleed the loop if you can't see the bubbles? Plus the water is cool looking), you don't need fancy tools (like a pipe bender or solder tool), and you can use the heat gun for other acrylic constructs, making it a far more useful investment. And it should be loads cheaper to do.

So you use the fittings for the BitsPower Crystal Link Tubes, if not bend the Crystal Link Tubes themselves as well, but are they as secure from leaks as normal Tygon/Compression Fitting builds?

They should make a Crystal Link Tube with hybrid molded soft ends to fit onto any compression fitting. That would be a killer product.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It's a piece of silicon tube, it's flexible, doesn't stick to plastic, and keeps its roundness when bent.


Even Better. Bad Ass. I may have to try this!!


----------



## d_yin

The only thing is ...getting a perfect bend and where would it bend is a deep question for me ...... since u can use a tool when working with copper
but with acrylic it can get pretty hard since playing with heat around 1X0C and getting desired pin point location to the hole ...

...the best thing is ...my sli connector look like a shrimp ... compared to my lovely stick


----------



## somebadlemonade

they use molds when working with glass or plastic, with the ends capped with a tube to blow into to make sure it doesn't collapse

since the glass transition temps for polycarbonate and acrylic are between 100c and 170c you could make the molds out of wood if you wanted with a router and the size bit, but that's really expensive if you don't have a router, if you do have a router you could just find a 5mm radius (10mm diameter) ball end or core box router bit would do the trick, though those are a pain in the ass to find, a 1/4" radius core box or ball end bit is a ton easier to find

the bits are usually under $30-40 so it's not a wallet breaking ordeal


----------



## kgtuning

awesome guide!


----------



## cmac19749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html


I know its a bit after the fact and probably a noob question, but will these fittings work attached directly to a bay res/pump or would the vibrations cause them to leak after a bit?


----------



## eovnu87435ds

I'm too lazy to quote everybody who is asking, but to start with the issue of vibrations causing the compression fittings to leak, I haven't used those exact compression fittings, but I have used compression fittings specifically for copper tubing called shark bites. they are rated for 150 psi, and you really can't pop them off very easily. If you really want to make sure this doesn't happen, you could run 2 inches or so of plastic hose to the inlet and outlet of your pump, and convert to copper from there. The soft joints the hose makes will help dampen any vibrations.

For all those talking about bending annealed/unannealed copper tubing: both can be bent. you will have a much harder time bending the hard copper, but using a proper bender, like the ones with the circular guides, you run only a very small chance of kinking. In addition, the kink-factor also depends on your pipe. There are different thicknesses, most notably, K, L, and M, which are in order from thickest wall to thinnest wall. Even though copper tubing is measured by inside diameter, the outside diameter of these pipes do not change(This is so that there can be 1 size solder fitting). So 3/8" copper tubing can have an I.D. that is slightly larger or smaller than 3/8"

Also, since metric copper tubing is not readily available in the US, and 3/8" is, I am in the process of finding a 1/4GPT to 3/8" ID compression fitting. I have contacts who have direct contact with the major fitting manufacturers, so if anything is available, I can find it.

Lastly, anybody who needs any question answered about anything with copper tubing, including sizes, cutting, bending, soldering, brazing, etc. please consult the PDF I have linked below. Coming from a plumber with 35+ years of experience, this PDF is the go to guide.

Copper Tube Handbook


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eovnu87435ds*
> 
> I'm too lazy to quote everybody who is asking, but to start with the issue of vibrations causing the compression fittings to leak, I haven't used those exact compression fittings, but I have used compression fittings specifically for copper tubing called shark bites. they are rated for 150 psi, and you really can't pop them off very easily. If you really want to make sure this doesn't happen, you could run 2 inches or so of plastic hose to the inlet and outlet of your pump, and convert to copper from there. The soft joints the hose makes will help dampen any vibrations.
> For all those talking about bending annealed/unannealed copper tubing: both can be bent. you will have a much harder time bending the hard copper, but using a proper bender, like the ones with the circular guides, you run only a very small chance of kinking. In addition, the kink-factor also depends on your pipe. There are different thicknesses, most notably, K, L, and M, which are in order from thickest wall to thinnest wall. Even though copper tubing is measured by inside diameter, the outside diameter of these pipes do not change(This is so that there can be 1 size solder fitting). So 3/8" copper tubing can have an I.D. that is slightly larger or smaller than 3/8"
> Also, since metric copper tubing is not readily available in the US, and 3/8" is, I am in the process of finding a 1/4GPT to 3/8" ID compression fitting. I have contacts who have direct contact with the major fitting manufacturers, so if anything is available, I can find it.
> Lastly, anybody who needs any question answered about anything with copper tubing, including sizes, cutting, bending, soldering, brazing, etc. please consult the PDF I have linked below. Coming from a plumber with 35+ years of experience, this PDF is the go to guide.
> Copper Tube Handbook


There is list of metric pipe suppliers for the US in the OP.
That guide is good...this is also a good one..Guide

Either way,what i have stated is correct,regarding the bending of annealed and half hard/drawn tube.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

I have ten 10mm push fit fittings in black nickel from aquatuning that I wont be using. Let me know if interested









http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p6607


----------



## cmac19749

sorry all about the multiple inputs saying basically the same thing. My internet was on the bubble and I kept getting error messages.


----------



## eovnu87435ds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is list of metric pipe suppliers for the US in the OP.
> That guide is good...this is also a good one..Guide
> Either way,what i have stated is correct,regarding the bending of annealed and half hard/drawn tube.


Indeed it is! Just too lazy to find you to quote!


----------



## sortableturnip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eovnu87435ds*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm too lazy to quote everybody who is asking, but to start with the issue of vibrations causing the compression fittings to leak, I haven't used those exact compression fittings, but I have used compression fittings specifically for copper tubing called shark bites. they are rated for 150 psi, and you really can't pop them off very easily. If you really want to make sure this doesn't happen, you could run 2 inches or so of plastic hose to the inlet and outlet of your pump, and convert to copper from there. The soft joints the hose makes will help dampen any vibrations.
> For all those talking about bending annealed/unannealed copper tubing: both can be bent. you will have a much harder time bending the hard copper, but using a proper bender, like the ones with the circular guides, you run only a very small chance of kinking. In addition, the kink-factor also depends on your pipe. There are different thicknesses, most notably, K, L, and M, which are in order from thickest wall to thinnest wall. Even though copper tubing is measured by inside diameter, the outside diameter of these pipes do not change(This is so that there can be 1 size solder fitting). So 3/8" copper tubing can have an I.D. that is slightly larger or smaller than 3/8"
> Also, since metric copper tubing is not readily available in the US, and 3/8" is, I am in the process of finding a 1/4GPT to 3/8" ID compression fitting. I have contacts who have direct contact with the major fitting manufacturers, so if anything is available, I can find it.
> Lastly, anybody who needs any question answered about anything with copper tubing, including sizes, cutting, bending, soldering, brazing, etc. please consult the PDF I have linked below. Coming from a plumber with 35+ years of experience, this PDF is the go to guide.
> 
> 
> Copper Tube Handbook


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is list of metric pipe suppliers for the US in the OP.
> That guide is good...this is also a good one..Guide
> Either way,what i have stated is correct,regarding the bending of annealed and half hard/drawn tube.


+rep to both of you for the handbook and guide


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> I have ten 10mm push fit fittings in black nickel from aquatuning that I wont be using. Let me know if interested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p6607


So tempting Shadow... but i will have to pass. next build will be hardpiped.


----------



## eovnu87435ds

Thanks for the rep! glad to help!

Has anybody considered these?










This one here I picked up for 3/8" tubing (1/2" OD) and has 1/4 GPT on the other side.

















Instead of the bitspower ones, this one uses a ring inside that compresses onto the pipe. The good news is that instead of just fitting in, these seal so well they're rated for 150+ psi!

















The good news about these is that they are for 3/8" tubing, which is far easier and cheaper to pick up at the hardware store/plumbing supply, and they only cost me *$1.50 a piece* from my plumbing supply!I liked it so much I went ahead and ordered 20 of them!









Way cheaper than what McMaster charges for something similar, readily available, and nearly nonexistent chance of failure, I'm in!

If you all can't find them cheap, I can see about ordering more and shipping out. I don't know what it takes to get seller status on OCN but I don't think I'm eligible yet...


----------



## somebadlemonade

well now that we know they are out there it'll be easier to find them


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eovnu87435ds*
> 
> Thanks for the rep! glad to help!
> Has anybody considered these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one here I picked up for 3/8" tubing (1/2" OD) and has 1/4 GPT on the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of the bitspower ones, this one uses a ring inside that compresses onto the pipe. The good news is that instead of just fitting in, these seal so well they're rated for 150+ psi!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The good news about these is that they are for 3/8" tubing, which is far easier and cheaper to pick up at the hardware store/plumbing supply, and they only cost me *$1.50 a piece* from my plumbing supply!I liked it so much I went ahead and ordered 20 of them!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Way cheaper than what McMaster charges for something similar, readily available, and nearly nonexistent chance of failure, I'm in!
> If you all can't find them cheap, I can see about ordering more and shipping out. I don't know what it takes to get seller status on OCN but I don't think I'm eligible yet...


You still have the problem of seating them to a block or rad,the thread is way to long for most blocks,using PTFE wont leave a good finish and stands a good chance of cracking block tops.
Also,i wouldnt want to use any sealant in a WC loop,those fittings require a smear of jointing compound around the olive before compression.



This is standard practice for UK plumbers



http://koolance.com/nozzle-single-for-od-13mm-1-2in-soft-copper-pipe
these would of been a better bet......


----------



## eovnu87435ds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You still have the problem of seating them to a block or rad,the thread is way to long for most blocks,using PTFE wont leave a good finish and stands a good chance of cracking block tops.
> Also,i wouldnt want to use any sealant in a WC loop,those fittings require a smear of jointing compound around the olive before compression.
> 
> This is standard practice for UK plumbers
> 
> http://koolance.com/nozzle-single-for-od-13mm-1-2in-soft-copper-pipe
> these would of been a better bet......


GPT Threading is not the same throughout the overall length of the fitting; it's tapered. Basically, the threads start off smaller and then get larger as you deeper. Basically, it ends up looking like the picture below. Even though there are many threads sticking out, it is sealed tight because of those tapered threads. The compound you show above is commonly known as pipe dope. It actually does nothing for sealing the pipes at all. It is just a lubricant that stops friction buildup from stopping you from getting a 100% tight fit. In GPT and any other threaded pipe, it is always the threads that make the seal. The pipe dope just gets you there.










In the setup I have shown above, I adapted the compression fitting to put to my hose bib connected to the utility sink, and put a plug in the other end of my water block. I bled the air out, and had the water up to full pressure, which for that faucet is about 20 lbs. I had no leak.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eovnu87435ds*
> 
> I adapted the compression fitting to put to my hose bib connected to the utility sink, and put a plug in the other end of my water block. I bled the air out, and had the water up to full pressure, which for that faucet is about *20 lbs*. I had no leak.


that's horrible water pressure. . . then again you might be on the outlaying edges of your town, around here we get at least 40psi but where i live 55psi, which can easily blow an o-ring.

but yea if it can hole up to a faucet it should be fine for water cooling as long as you don't tweak it the wrong why installing the pipes, and i don't think they make double parallel pipe to fitting connections which would need some other kind of sealing method, since it's either the pipe that's tapered or the fitting


----------



## eovnu87435ds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> that's horrible water pressure. . . then again you might be on the outlaying edges of your town, around here we get at least 40psi but where i live 55psi, which can easily blow an o-ring.
> but yea if it can hole up to a faucet it should be fine for water cooling as long as you don't tweak it the wrong why installing the pipes, and i don't think they make double parallel pipe to fitting connections which would need some other kind of sealing method, since it's either the pipe that's tapered or the fitting


Its around 20psi or so at the faucet. It's 55psi at the curb, but there is a loss of pressure per foot of copper tubing, and temperature diverters, etc. bring the pressure down even more. My dad uses a piece of copper tubing with a T fitting to threaded fixture where he has a pressure gauge connected. At the far end he has a bleed-off valve for letting any air out. He uses it when inspectors come out to check on his work.


----------



## cltitus

Looks like I'm getting some Koolance Fittings, Soft Copper Tube, Inserts, bender, and some nice engine block OD green spray paint. Haven't rebuild my computer in 6 years it's time for a upgrade.

+ Rep for the insider look


----------



## GoodInk

Here is mine







I'm going to be getting a different pump so I have not polished them.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Here is mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be getting a different pump so I have not polished them.


i saw the build log, awesome rig, messed up situation with the pump


----------



## ironcobra220

[/quote]

sorry if youve already been asked this...
what fittings are you using to connect the tubes into the blocks?
i really want to do this but i cant afford the bitspower fittings, they are so expensive.


----------



## Ace_finland

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironcobra220*


sorry if youve already been asked this...
what fittings are you using to connect the tubes into the blocks?
i really want to do this but i cant afford the bitspower fittings, they are so expensive.[/quote]

Looks like koolance fittings


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironcobra220*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry if youve already been asked this...
> what fittings are you using to connect the tubes into the blocks?
> i really want to do this but i cant afford the bitspower fittings, they are so expensive.


http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Great guide, beat me to it! I'm getting all my copper stuff in this week so I'll definitely be having an awesome weekend coming up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone is looking for 12mm copper tubing, go to:
> 
> www.coppertubingsales.com
> 
> EXTREMELY CHEAP compared to McMasterCarr. The only downside is that you have to buy a 10 meter roll from them and they will not sell anything less. But is is an awesome deal and you can save the rest of the copper for your next build!
> 
> If you are looking to use BitsPower 1/4 SLI fittings then STAY AWAY from 1/2" tubing. It will be a nightmare. Trust me, I've tried. BUT, if you have a lot of time and love sanding untill your fingers fall off, it can be done.
> 
> Now all we need to add to this guide is how to polish, paint and how to go about chroming these pipes. I know chroming might have to be done by a professional, but maybe there are some cool looking alternatives. Good Job OP!


Cheers for that shop Bow! I just picked up 10 meters of 12mm tubing for $96 shipped where McMasterCarr was $140 shipped. I also ordered a bender that I have to mod to accept the 12mm tubing and a tubing cutter. Also a crap ton of BP multi Link fittings.


----------



## TheNovice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> How does this locking ring work? Does it bend the end of the pipe or can you reuse them? Good guide by the way, OCN needed one


Thanks for the guide B NEGATIVE - just what I have been looking for. (+REP)








Would like to know the same as Shadow_Foxx. Do you have pictures of how these fittings work?

Edit...
Noticed your reply on page 3. (too fast there)








However pics would be great.

\M


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> Thanks for the guide B NEGATIVE - just what I have been looking for. (+REP)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would like to know the same as Shadow_Foxx. Do you have pictures of how these fittings work?
> \M


If you look close you can see a small ring around the top of the fitting,you pull it up around 2mm and a toothed ring grips the pipe.


----------



## TheNovice

Got it!


----------



## GoodInk

Correct me if I'm wrong but they look just like a macroline fitting for paintball guns.


----------



## NimbleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Great guide, beat me to it! I'm getting all my copper stuff in this week so I'll definitely be having an awesome weekend coming up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone is looking for 12mm copper tubing, go to:
> 
> www.coppertubingsales.com
> 
> EXTREMELY CHEAP compared to McMasterCarr. The only downside is that you have to buy a 10 meter roll from them and they will not sell anything less. But is is an awesome deal and you can save the rest of the copper for your next build!
> 
> If you are looking to use BitsPower 1/4 SLI fittings then STAY AWAY from 1/2" tubing. It will be a nightmare. Trust me, I've tried. BUT, if you have a lot of time and love sanding untill your fingers fall off, it can be done.
> 
> Now all we need to add to this guide is how to polish, paint and how to go about chroming these pipes. I know chroming might have to be done by a professional, but maybe there are some cool looking alternatives. Good Job OP!
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers for that shop Bow! I just picked up 10 meters of 12mm tubing for $96 shipped where McMasterCarr was $140 shipped. I also ordered a bender that I have to mod to accept the 12mm tubing and a tubing cutter. Also a crap ton of BP multi Link fittings.
Click to expand...

I dont know if this will be helpful for anyone, but i havent seen this information posted anywhere. 12mm copper is usually refered to as 1/2 refrigeration piping in the US/CND and is for sale off the shelf at any HVAC wholesale store.

They sell hard drawn by the 12' length or soft drawn by 50' rolls.

They wont cut the rolls down for you, they also have bendering tools on shelves as well, copper will be behind a counter more then likely...

50' will probably go for $100 for a non-tradesman...dont be offended if you get a bit of attitude lol


----------



## Fuganater

1/2" and 12mm are NOT the same OD....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> 1/2" and 12mm are NOT the same OD....


QFT.

1/2" wont even fit without major re-profiling.


----------



## NimbleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> 1/2" and 12mm are NOT the same OD....


Sorry, i should have made my self more clear. In the heating and air conditioning world (hvac), in north america, 12mm is refered to as 1/2 inch within the industry.

12mm translated into imperial standards is acutally 1/2 inch outside diameter copper tubing. But if you are talking to someone in the refrigeration industry, they assume you know what you are talking about and just refer to it as "1/2". Refrigeration copper has a different thickness then Plumbing copper and is specially dried and packeged with a bit of nitrogen gas to ensure its cleanliness for our installation purposes.

And,once more because i am Canadian, sorry for the confusion


----------



## Fonne

Hi

Amazing guide, thanks









Is there any that know where to buy the pipes in Germany, and the Rothenberger bender ? - Seems like there are many models, so what to pick ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fonne*
> 
> Hi
> Amazing guide, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any that know where to buy the pipes in Germany, and the Rothenberger bender ? - Seems like there are many models, so what to pick ?


Google is your friend,choose your fittings then choose the matching pipe OD.

Choose the bender which matches your pipe OD


----------



## kgtuning

Awesome guide. my next build will have some copper piping i believe.


----------



## Fuganater

So I'm talking with a plexi company in the US to start stocking 10 mm and 12 mm acrylic tubing. I'll let you all know more when I do.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> So I'm talking with a plexi company in the US to start stocking 10 mm and 12 mm acrylic tubing. I'll let you all know more when I do.


Good work Fug,i will link it up in the first post mate.


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> So I'm talking with a plexi company in the US to start stocking 10 mm and 12 mm acrylic tubing. I'll let you all know more when I do.










here is hoping they don't bend us over on the pricing


----------



## johnnyfive622

I went through the whole thread and didnt see anything on my question so I thought Id ask.

What about patina buildup on the insides of the copper pipe? Any problems with that? Some way to prevent it? Not a big deal?

Thanks!


----------



## kgtuning

Thought copper only turned green when exposed to air?
Has anyone tired "Parker" fittings? They are just like swagelok but cheaper.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Thought copper only turned green when exposed to air?
> Has anyone tired "Parker" fittings? They are just like swagelok but cheaper.


I have them on my pump and bulkheads and actually just finished ordering the rest of the fittings last week. Wanted something with BSPP thread for all the WC gear but accepted standard pipe sizes so it was the easiest option.


----------



## beezweeky

Pretty sure the "green" is oxidized copper but most rads are made of copper. I'm not sure about the reason behind it, but I'm not sure if the oxygen in the water will corrode the pipe or not.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> I have them on my pump and bulkheads and actually just finished ordering the rest of the fittings last week. Wanted something with BSPP thread for all the WC gear but accepted standard pipe sizes so it was the easiest option.


I love the way they look. What size pipe do you use?


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I love the way they look. What size pipe do you use?


3/8"


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beezweeky*
> 
> Pretty sure the "green" is oxidized copper but most rads are made of copper. I'm not sure about the reason behind it, but I'm not sure if the oxygen in the water will corrode the pipe or not.


If you're worrying about that with the pipe you should be worrying about that with the heatsinks and radiators too... ie, you shouldn't be worrying about it.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> 3/8"


Do you have a part number by any chance? Sorry to be a pita.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Do you have a part number by any chance? Sorry to be a pita.


Haha, not a problem. I don't have it on me right now. I'll post it later on tonight, assuming I can find where I put the receipt. lol. The lame part is, I went to my local Parker supplier and for some reason the fittings won't be in until December 7th. So keep that in mind. Not sure why it takes so long but the guy said he's never had anyone buy them before though, lol.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Haha, not a problem. I don't have it on me right now. I'll post it later on tonight, assuming I can find where I put the receipt. lol. The lame part is, I went to my local Parker supplier and for some reason the fittings won't be in until December 7th. So keep that in mind. Not sure why it takes so long but the guy said he's never had anyone buy them before though, lol.


Cool thanks! Yeah I'm in no rush. Just trying to come up with a game plan for my next build.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Cool thanks! Yeah I'm in no rush. Just trying to come up with a game plan for my next build.


Couldn't find my receipt. Might have to go in and double check, I know it's not these ones exactly but they are essentially these ones:

http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.bb22d5a82bbb5b147cf26710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=a2d9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=EN&vgnextpartno=6-1/4PLHBF4-B&vgnextdiv=687547&vgnextcatid=10435&configtype=

the ones I have are defintely not that part number but it's close to that piece.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Couldn't find my receipt. Might have to go in and double check, I know it's not these ones exactly but they are essentially these ones:
> http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.bb22d5a82bbb5b147cf26710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=a2d9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=EN&vgnextpartno=6-1/4PLHBF4-B&vgnextdiv=687547&vgnextcatid=10435&configtype=
> the ones I have are defintely not that part number but it's close to that piece.


Oh I see. Hmm not what I envisioned. I am thinking parkers A-lok series.


----------



## deafboy

Aren't A-lok compression fittings and barb fittings?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Aren't A-lok compression fittings and barb fittings?


Yes the A loks are compression fittings for tubing. no flaring needed.

like this..


----------



## deafboy

Interesting, I don't know how I feel about those. If you wanted to reuse the fittings afterwards you'd need to cut the tubing. Push locks are certainly easier. The A-lok look nice though, very industrial look. You'd pretty much have to assemble the tubing and fittings outside the case and make sure everything is right first. Would hate to torque a fitting in the case.

I actually might have some of those fittings out in the garage, lol. I know I don't have any BSPP ones though. Hmm.


----------



## oats2012

This stuff is awesome! question though.....

maybe I missed it in the thread, but if you do choose to go this option (pipes) if you need to change parts out at a later date once the system is done and filled, does this make it much harder to work on?

I'm just thinking that you can drain the system but really can you get enough of it out to not drip all over each part when removing the pipes? From what I've seen regular tubing lends itself to kind of taking a block off for example without untubing or emptying the system.

I realize pipes may add some different aspects ( like full disassembly to get at some parts), I'm just concerned that it would be a huge mess that may ruin system parts during removal because of left over water that stays in the pipes easier than in tubing?

(may be a silly line of questions, but honestly don't know the answer) So thanks for any input from the experienced water cooling folks


----------



## deafboy

It's generally a good idea to plumb a drain line.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Interesting, I don't know how I feel about those. If you wanted to reuse the fittings afterwards you'd need to cut the tubing. Push locks are certainly easier. The A-lok look nice though, very industrial look. You'd pretty much have to assemble the tubing and fittings outside the case and make sure everything is right first. Would hate to torque a fitting in the case.
> I actually might have some of those fittings out in the garage, lol. I know I don't have any BSPP ones though. Hmm.


I love the industrial look of them. We use them at my work for gasoline additive blending, they just aren't bspp. Yes you would have to do alot of assembly outside the case but you would have a good degree of safety. I worry about using push in style and them accidentally getting pulled out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oats2012*
> 
> This stuff is awesome! question though.....
> maybe I missed it in the thread, but if you do choose to go this option (pipes) if you need to change parts out at a later date once the system is done and filled, does this make it much harder to work on?
> I'm just thinking that you can drain the system but really can you get enough of it out to not drip all over each part when removing the pipes? From what I've seen regular tubing lends itself to kind of taking a block off for example without untubing or emptying the system.
> I realize pipes may add some different aspects ( like full disassembly to get at some parts), I'm just concerned that it would be a huge mess that may ruin system parts during removal because of left over water that stays in the pipes easier than in tubing?
> (may be a silly line of questions, but honestly don't know the answer) So thanks for any input from the experienced water cooling folks


Yes unfortunately you would have to remove the piping that goes to a specific part to get it out of the case. My "black" build has no drain at all but its tygon tubing so I can pull the reservoir out some what and suck out water with a turkey baster.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> It's generally a good idea to plumb a drain line.


I have seen people make some very cool drains with copper tubing and valve. the other option would be fitting extensions which IMO looks badass. I'd love to do an entire loop with fitting extensions but the $$$$. yikes.


----------



## $ilent

bit off topic, but with these watercooling setups could you not just put the radiator outside your window or something in window?

Would that make temps like really low?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> bit off topic, but with these watercooling setups could you not just put the radiator outside your window or something in window?
> Would that make temps like really low?


you could put a radiator outside however it probably will cause condensation on your tubing inside your case because of the temperature difference and dew point. phase change or LN2 will bring temps way down like subzero. I'm very happy with my temps...



Ambient is 70 degrees F/ 21 Celsius.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I wouldn't worry about pipes being able to be pulled out,they can take your body weight if installed correctly in push fit.
Proper olive type compressions need the olives replaced with every fitment and a sealing compound.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I wouldn't worry about pipes being able to be pulled out,they can take your body weight if installed correctly in push fit.
> Proper olive type compressions need the olives replaced with every fitment and a sealing compound.


Sealant? news to me. no sealant on Parker A LOK's or swagelok compressions. also on these fittings you can remove the tubing and put it back together without replacing anything. I'm sure you are right on how strong the push in style is but I myself would feel better with this style of fitting. I'm paranoid.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I love the industrial look of them. We use them at my work for gasoline additive blending, they just aren't bspp. Yes you would have to do alot of assembly outside the case but you would have a good degree of safety. I worry about using push in style and them accidentally getting pulled out.
> Yes unfortunately you would have to remove the piping that goes to a specific part to get it out of the case. My "black" build has no drain at all but its tygon tubing so I can pull the reservoir out some what and suck out water with a turkey baster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen people make some very cool drains with copper tubing and valve. the other option would be fitting extensions which IMO looks badass. I'd love to do an entire loop with fitting extensions but the $$$$. yikes.


They don't have BSPP, you sure about that? And I wouldn't be worried about them coming out at all. lol. Hard to accidently push and hold down the fitting and pull on the pipe evenly. They are very strong.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I wouldn't worry about pipes being able to be pulled out,they can take your body weight if installed correctly in push fit.
> Proper olive type compressions need the olives replaced with every fitment and a sealing compound.


Agreed...the need of sealant kind of depends on the internals and threading but it can certainly help. One big reason I went with the fittings I did. Also depends on the tubing you use (the strength of push locks, not the need of sealant, lol).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Sealant? news to me. no sealant on Parker A LOK's or swagelok compressions. also on these fittings you can remove the tubing and put it back together without replacing anything. I'm sure you are right on how strong the push in style is but I myself would feel better with this style of fitting. I'm paranoid.


Unless you add or change a component, lol.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Found some nice 10mm Pushfits....

http://catalogue.camozzi.com/Explorer.aspx?u_code=4_1_5_36_0&import_key=6512+10-1%2f4-M&type=Content


----------



## deafboy

Assuming you can get them in BSPP instead of BSPT? Not that it's a huge deal but would be nice. And contact the engineers for fluids, lol.

They look nice though, have a feeling they're probably expensive, just because most Italian stuff is, haha.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Assuming you can get them in BSPP instead of BSPT? Not that it's a huge deal but would be nice. And contact the engineers for fluids, lol.
> They look nice though, have a feeling they're probably expensive, just because most Italian stuff is, haha.


They have them as parallel and taper threads,you have to specify the thread on purchase.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> They don't have BSPP, you sure about that? And I wouldn't be worried about them coming out at all. lol. Hard to accidently push and hold down the fitting and pull on the pipe evenly. They are very strong.
> Agreed...the need of sealant kind of depends on the internals and threading but it can certainly help. One big reason I went with the fittings I did. Also depends on the tubing you use (the strength of push locks, not the need of sealant, lol).
> Unless you add or change a component, lol.


What do you mean " they don't have bspp, you sure about that?" And the parker A lok doesn't need to be changed unless your changing the tubing nor does it need sealant.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They have them as parallel and taper threads,you have to specify the thread on purchase.


Gotcha... would certainly be intrigued to see someone use those. The most types of fittings the better.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> What do you mean " they don't have bspp, you sure about that?" And the parker A lok doesn't need to be changed unless your changing the tubing nor does it need sealant.


A little smear of this round the olive before fittings will seal the pipe with less force and is good against leaks.
This is standard practice for UK plumbers.


----------



## radrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Found some nice 10mm Pushfits....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://catalogue.camozzi.com/Explorer.aspx?u_code=4_1_5_36_0&import_key=6512+10-1%2f4-M&type=Content


The item description says they are for compressed air and if you want to use them with liquids you have to ask their technicians

Although I think that those shouldn't have any problem on a PC loop since there isn't that much pressure, it's just a guess though.
Quote:


> aria compressa (per altri tipi di fluidi consultare i nostri tecnici)


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> What do you mean " they don't have bspp, you sure about that?" And the parker A lok doesn't need to be changed unless your changing the tubing nor does it need sealant.


you said:
Quote:


> they just aren't bspp


in a previous post...

If you changed the hardware (computer) though you'd need to cut the tubing to recover the fittings to reuse. Not that it's a bit deal, but depending on the tubing you might not want to do that. And sealant might not be necessary, it is recommended.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radrok*
> 
> The item description says they are for compressed air and if you want to use them with liquids you have to ask their technicians
> Although I think that those shouldn't have any problem on a PC loop since there isn't that much pressure, it's just a guess though.


16 bar of air pressure rating will easily withstand the pathetic pressure for WC pumps,i wouldnt let that worry you,its still an o-ring seal like other push fit.


----------



## radrok

Anyway if anyone was interested about the price I found em here on an italian web store for 1,23eur a pop, although they are not the same model they are G1/4 threaded and 10mm push fit.

They just aren't micro.

http://catalogue.camozzi.com/Explorer.aspx?u_code=4_1_5_35_0&import_key=S6510+10-1%2f4&type=Content

Can I directly link the web shop?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> you said:
> in a previous post...
> If you changed the hardware (computer) though you'd need to cut the tubing to recover the fittings to reuse. Not that it's a bit deal, but depending on the tubing you might not want to do that. And sealant might not be necessary, it is recommended.


Actually if you read what that post said that's not what I said. I have parker fittings at work but they are not bspp. If your changing hardware, water block or res you would just unbolt the tubing change it and thread it back in. If you had to repipe it, you would need new piping anyway.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radrok*
> 
> Anyway if anyone was interested about the price I found em here on an italian web store for 1,23eur a pop, although they are not the same model they are G1/4 threaded and 10mm push fit.
> They just aren't micro.
> http://catalogue.camozzi.com/Explorer.aspx?u_code=4_1_5_35_0&import_key=S6510+10-1%2f4&type=Content
> Can I directly link the web shop?


The link is already in my post,you have gone to the same shop.


----------



## radrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The link is already in my post,you have gone to the same shop.


Sorry, this one

http://www.maurocomponenti.com/default.asp?l=1&pType=-1&cmd=getProd&cmdID=3926


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> So I'm talking with a plexi company in the US to start stocking 10 mm and 12 mm acrylic tubing. I'll let you all know more when I do.


So the company that provides them their tubing is in Canada and does not stock metric tubing...

Epic Fail...


----------



## GoodInk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> So I'm talking with a plexi company in the US to start stocking 10 mm and 12 mm acrylic tubing. I'll let you all know more when I do.
> 
> 
> 
> So the company that provides them their tubing is in Canada and does not stock metric tubing...
> 
> Epic Fail...
Click to expand...

Doesn't surprise me, from what I've been told. It isn't as easy as it sounds, they would have to have a new line, tooling and all to make it. The factory will never make there money back.


----------



## CD69Scorp

Hey, I thought I would share what UPS finally dropped of yesterday. Ordered this tubing from RS Components about 3 weeks ago. It cost me more than I expected but hopefully it works out.

Want to thank B NEGATIVE for starting this thread and others that put in all the links.

I am not for enough into my build to start putting this tubing to use yet, but had to see how hard it is going to be to bend and work with. So I put together a quick jig for a 90 degree bend and got out the heat gun. The first and only bend came out OK but it wanted to kink and I left it in the heat a little to long, got a couple of bubbles in it. But it gave me an idea how this is going to work. I only got 3 meters to work with so I can play with it a little but not to much. Went up to the hardware store and got a spring that I think will work for the bending.

Here is a couple of pics.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I think I am going to really like this stuff


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> Hey, I thought I would share what UPS finally dropped of yesterday. Ordered this tubing from RS Components about 3 weeks ago. It cost me more than I expected but hopefully it works out.
> Want to thank B NEGATIVE for starting this thread and others that put in all the links.
> I am not for enough into my build to start putting this tubing to use yet, but had to see how hard it is going to be to bend and work with. So I put together a quick jig for a 90 degree bend and got out the heat gun. The first and only bend came out OK but it wanted to kink and I left it in the heat a little to long, got a couple of bubbles in it. But it gave me an idea how this is going to work. I only got 3 meters to work with so I can play with it a little but not to much. Went up to the hardware store and got a spring that I think will work for the bending.
> Here is a couple of pics.
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> I think I am going to really like this stuff


Good work man,post up your log link when you are done.


----------



## Fonne

This was my first try on bending acrylic earlier this year:





The last piece ended up decent, but a long way from happy about it ... If its not perfect, its not going into my build, so need to do some more testing









This is how it looks when heatet to much, and you cant save it







(Got plenty to try on)


----------



## shinji2k

I've been looking for some 10mm acrylic or polycarb to go with these fittings and this company seems promising. Shipping from Aus to US is around $30-35 which really isn't terrible. I may buy 10m or so and see how it works out.


----------



## Fuganater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> Hey, I thought I would share what UPS finally dropped of yesterday. Ordered this tubing from RS Components about 3 weeks ago. It cost me more than I expected but hopefully it works out.
> 
> Want to thank B NEGATIVE for starting this thread and others that put in all the links.
> 
> I am not for enough into my build to start putting this tubing to use yet, but had to see how hard it is going to be to bend and work with. So I put together a quick jig for a 90 degree bend and got out the heat gun. The first and only bend came out OK but it wanted to kink and I left it in the heat a little to long, got a couple of bubbles in it. But it gave me an idea how this is going to work. I only got 3 meters to work with so I can play with it a little but not to much. Went up to the hardware store and got a spring that I think will work for the bending.
> 
> Here is a couple of pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> 
> 
> I think I am going to really like this stuff


So where did you get that from?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuganater*
> 
> So where did you get that from?


RS components.

You have them in the US?

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/plumbing-pipeline/pipes-tubing-and-hoses/


----------



## Fuganater

Missed that. I thought he got it in the US.


----------



## Boweezie

Awesome work Fonne! I am 100% sure I will use acrylic tubing in my next build








Thanks for posting some pictures. Looks sweet!


----------



## Seanimus

The acrylic tubing looks very interesting. Now I am on the fence again with copper tubing versus acrylic tubing.


----------



## Fonne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Awesome work Fonne! I am 100% sure I will use acrylic tubing in my next build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for posting some pictures. Looks sweet!


Thanks







.... Is still not sure about using acrylic og nickel plated cobber, but will properly end up using Acrylic


----------



## Willi

anyone knows how to exactly use a pipe cutter? It would really help to show how to use it on both acrylic and copper. I changed my plans and will switch to acrylic piping and Bitpower's Multi-Link adapters.
It would really help to know how to use a tool beforehand, since the only acrylic pipes I found in my country are sold in 2-meter long pieces and I'm scared to death to crack one of those when trying to cut the correct length.
I'm probably getting 4 meters for about 24USD, which is a good price in my opinion.

thanks in advance for any reply.


----------



## shinji2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> anyone knows how to exactly use a pipe cutter? It would really help to show how to use it on both acrylic and copper. I changed my plans and will switch to acrylic piping and Bitpower's Multi-Link adapters.
> It would really help to know how to use a tool beforehand, since the only acrylic pipes I found in my country are sold in 2-meter long pieces and I'm scared to death to crack one of those when trying to cut the correct length.
> I'm probably getting 4 meters for about 24USD, which is a good price in my opinion.
> thanks in advance for any reply.


The first part of 



 shows cutting copper tube. For cutting acrylic, the cutter used in the video isn't going to work very well. They make ones for pvc that would do a better job, but I would probably just use a hacksaw or something with a bit of sanding to clean the end up.


----------



## Se7enHuss

These guys sell adapters in PVC clear.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=24353

i think that's kind of missing the point when your trying to minimize flow restriction









they do sell some interesting stuff tho, and there in the states which might make things easier for some of you.


----------



## Pcjunkie209

Thanks bro for the tut! I used some of your techniques and here's the result...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pcjunkie209*
> 
> Thanks bro for the tut! I used some of your techniques and here's the result...


Hey fella!
Nice to see you made it here too!


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pcjunkie209*
> 
> Thanks bro for the tut! I used some of your techniques and here's the result...


Nice job, really looks good. I was going to go with the copper but wanted to try the plexy tubing first and see how it worked. The copper also wouldn't go with the theme I was looking for in my build. I would have to have the tubing chromed or something and that is more steps than I wanted to go through.

I finally got my Mipps water block in so I did some bending. I tried the spring in the tube on the first one but it left little ribs in the corners, that was on the two 90 degree bends. Can't hardly see them but don't know what they will look like when water is running thru them. On the U shaped one just did it with no spring and I think it turned out pretty good.

Let me know what you think...

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/819/img1744ya.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/267/img1732m.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/571/img1735nb.jpg/


----------



## somebadlemonade

U's like that might not hold the best, just be mindful they may work loose over time


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> U's like that might not hold the best, just be mindful they may work loose over time


Believe me I have thought about all that kind of stuff and will do a lot of leak testing. I even thought about putting on a small amount of silicone sealant on the O-rings if I have to. But playing with these fittings they hold on to the tubing pretty tight.
But thank you for the heads up.


----------



## tsm106

In my loop that would get blown out. I've had it happen with sli links that are not supported by something opposite to the pressure.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> In my loop that would get blown out. I've had it happen with sli links that are not supported by something opposite to the pressure.


Exactly the reason I don't recommend those sli fittings,there is no safe margin,it can fail with no warning.
Also,that acrylic has bad flattening of the tube,I would say redo them using silicone as a tube support during the bending.


----------



## tsm106

You can use elastomer tubes inside the acrylic for bending. You can get them from Amazon pretty reasonably too.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> You can use elastomer tubes inside the acrylic for bending. You can get them from Amazon pretty reasonably too.


I use silicone fuel tubing for RC cars,it has excellent heat resistance.
There is guide in this thread detailing how to do it.


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> In my loop that would get blown out. I've had it happen with sli links that are not supported by something opposite to the pressure.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Exactly the reason I don't recommend those sli fittings,there is no safe margin,it can fail with no warning.
> Also,that acrylic has bad flattening of the tube,I would say redo them using silicone as a tube support during the bending.


Thanks guys, you really have me rethinking the SLI fittings. I looked around and can't find 12mm pushfit fittings, do you now if they make them in that size? And if they do would they work with this type of tubing.

I think I'm going to try to run them with some 90s I have, so they are a straight shot between blocks. That's going to be a pita putting the blocks together with the tubing then mounting them to the motherboard lol.

I found the silicone fuel line at my hobby store and will give it a try.


----------



## somebadlemonade

i know they make them, it's just finding a distributor that carries them is the problems, bspp g1/4" 12mm is a fairly common size, but without a distributor you'd have to buy a bunch

http://www.wellfittings.com/brass-push-in-fittings-with-o-ring-bspp-g-bpoc-g-hex-male-stud.html
that's what google gives me i think you'd have to order at least 100

http://www.kiowa.co.uk/products/festo_quick_star_push-in_fittings_standard_series_qs/EF186350
another


----------



## deafboy

I know parker has them, not the prettiest things in the world and not sure I would recommend putting acrylic tubing in them either.


----------



## somebadlemonade

http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-to-connect-tube-fittings/=kjh3e7 search for 5225K514, i'm not sure if they have a sealing o-ring on the g1/4" side it does have a sealing o-ring on the g1/4" side

even if they do, with 5.5mm long threads, you may run into problems, most watercooling fittings are 5mm long


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-to-connect-tube-fittings/=kjh3e7 search for 5225K514, i'm not sure if they have a sealing o-ring on the g1/4" side it does have a sealing o-ring on the g1/4" side
> even if they do, with 5.5mm long threads, you may run into problems, most watercooling fittings are 5mm long


Man looking at all those fittings makes my head hurt.

Thanks, REP+ for you all


----------



## Willi

I just ordered 12 of those SLI fittings. I plan on using silicon sealant in place of the innermost o-ring, so it glues the acrylic tube inside. Aldo got 4 meters or acrylic tubing, just waiting for the fittings to confirm they are the right diameter (the shop where I got them confirmed they will change if it's not the right size. I got them because they were the last 2m segment with 12mm diameter)
If they are not the right size, I still got enough to practice my bending skills thoroughly.


----------



## tsm106

Hmm, I'm not sure that will work. If you really meant glue, you can only glue acrylic with a solvent weld. I would test it before ordering a bunch if its not too late.


----------



## Willi

naw, I'll find another use (probably involving copper piping). But yeah, I just tested bending the acrylic pipe with the butane torch on a very weak flame and it didn't bend. I got it maleable (it turned an opaque white for a moment) but if I tried to bend it, it would collapse on itself or form ridges. Maybe I got the wrong material (this one has a slightly blue-ish hue to it) or I'm doing it wrong. I think I need more practice.

Anyways, I know of a way to seal the acrylic tubing inside the fitting. You need to remove the innermost of the two o-rings, insert the pipe just enough so the tip align with the ridge where the o-ring would be and, using a hot metal tip, soften the acrylic and expand it so the tip would enter the ridge. Once cooled, it wouldn't be glued in place, would still turn in the fitting but it probably would be very hard to remove. I need to test this idea first. It might demand a bit of patience, but might work and look better than push-fittings.

I just need to know the industrial name for the material of the pipe you guys are using. I think the acrylic tubes I got are of a low quality material. If I can get the specifics, it might help


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> naw, I'll find another use (probably involving copper piping). But yeah, I just tested bending the acrylic pipe with the butane torch on a very weak flame and it didn't bend. I got it maleable (it turned an opaque white for a moment) but if I tried to bend it, it would collapse on itself or form ridges. Maybe I got the wrong material (this one has a slightly blue-ish hue to it) or I'm doing it wrong. I think I need more practice.
> Anyways, I know of a way to seal the acrylic tubing inside the fitting. You need to remove the innermost of the two o-rings, insert the pipe just enough so the tip align with the ridge where the o-ring would be and, using a hot metal tip, soften the acrylic and expand it so the tip would enter the ridge. Once cooled, it wouldn't be glued in place, would still turn in the fitting but it probably would be very hard to remove. I need to test this idea first. It might demand a bit of patience, but might work and look better than push-fittings.
> I just need to know the industrial name for the material of the pipe you guys are using. I think the acrylic tubes I got are of a low quality material. If I can get the specifics, it might help


I would not use a torch for bending this type of tubing, you can't get a even heat were you need it without over heating it in spots and melting our blistering the tubing. A decent heat gun will do the job much better. And you should put the gun on a stand or prop it up so both hands are free to rotate the tubing for even heating.

The tubing is Acrylic 12mm OD x 8mm ID

I received a few PMs asking how I measured and got the straight angles. I used a caliper to measure the distance from fitting to fitting the tranfured that to a jig I made out of two squares.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/829/img1767q.jpg/


----------



## deafboy

Was asked to write this up from my experience but I thought I would share it here since it's relevant to the thread.

Fittings a tubing...


----------



## kgtuning

here's another option for fittings...


the bottom table is G1/4


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Was asked to write this up from my experience but I thought I would share it here since it's relevant to the thread.
> 
> Fittings a tubing...


You missed some...

http://catalogue.camozzi.com/Explorer.aspx?u_code=4_1_5_36_0&import_key=6512+10-1%2f4-M&type=Content



http://koolance.com/nozzle-single-for-od-10mm-3-8in-soft-copper-pipe



The push fit is still the best tho.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You missed some...
> http://catalogue.camozzi.com/Explorer.aspx?u_code=4_1_5_36_0&import_key=6512+10-1%2f4-M&type=Content
> 
> http://koolance.com/nozzle-single-for-od-10mm-3-8in-soft-copper-pipe
> 
> The push fit is still the best tho.


I don't have experience with those ones though. But yes, I am missing quite a few.


----------



## skyhigh2004

I have a question for you guys that know more about copper tubing than me, on this website they list under copper metric seamless tubing a straight "non bendable" tube and a "bendable with bender" coil. Which would you want to use for watercooling? Is the straight tube really un-bendable and would the coiled tubing be to soft for push fittings? The only reason I ask is my build needs some 180 degree bends and hard piping would work best and I just don't want to order some that I cant bend and later plate. Thanks for any insight you might have









http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-tubing/=krls2a


----------



## PCCstudent

I have barely started getting back into using copper pipe instead of some type of "plastic tubing".You have to have a real desire to get good at the bending process.It is so easy to start a bend going the wrong way.I like to practice with 3/16 brake line while getting a feeling for the bending process.Make sure you order extra "ferrels" as they become fixed to the pipe and cannot be used again (and they are only .69).I will say you will learn a lot with the bending process,I think all the cost and effort is worth it. I picked up the bender for 1/2 stainless pipe (it has really long handles and was not the best choice). When I specify my 1/2 copper pipe I ask for the softest stuff they have (it seems this means pipe used for refridgeration.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> I have barely started getting back into using copper pipe instead of some type of "plastic tubing".You have to have a real desire to get good at the bending process.It is so easy to start a bend going the wrong way.I like to practice with 3/16 brake line while getting a feeling for the bending process.Make sure you order extra "ferrels" as they become fixed to the pipe and cannot be used again (and they are only .69).I will say you will learn a lot with the bending process,I think all the cost and effort is worth it. I picked up the bender for 1/2 stainless pipe (it has really long handles and was not the best choice). When I specify my 1/2 copper pipe I ask for the softest stuff they have (it seems this means pipe used for refridgeration.


I'm curious as to which type of copper tubing you would want to use with the push type fittings not the compression and ferrel style. I kinda of want to go with stainless but its so expensive.


----------



## PCCstudent

Right now knowing what I know I do not think there is a replacement for copper pipe that uses the ferrel that becomes "fixed" on the pipe after the inital tightening.In other words,there is not a compression fitting that uses the "push the metal pipe as far up the fitting as possible and you will be rewarded with a seal".Metal pipe uses the metal ferrel,unless there is a new product on the market.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html


These are the fittings I would like to use, push style without a ferrel. I was wondering on which type of copper tubing on that website I linked a few posts back would work for these fittings and still be bendable with a tool.


----------



## shinji2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I have a question for you guys that know more about copper tubing than me, on this website they list under copper metric seamless tubing a straight "non bendable" tube and a "bendable with bender" coil. Which would you want to use for watercooling? Is the straight tube really un-bendable and would the coiled tubing be to soft for push fittings? The only reason I ask is my build needs some 180 degree bends and hard piping would work best and I just don't want to order some that I cant bend and later plate. Thanks for any insight you might have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-tubing/=krls2a


The coiled copper is definitely softer than the straight tube. The problem with the coiled stuff is you have to straighten it out by hand before you use it, which can be tricky. I don't know why mcmaster lists the straight tube as not bendable, it certainly is with a bender. Coiled can be bent by hand but if you want a tight radius you will need a bender. You might also think about using some kind of insert while bending the coiled, it will tend to flatten more than the straight if you aren't careful.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I'm curious as to which type of copper tubing you would want to use with the push type fittings not the compression and ferrel style. I kinda of want to go with stainless but its so expensive.


With the push fittings you wouldn't have been able to use stainless anyway. Those fittings are really for plastic, but aluminum and copper are still soft enough for the teeth of the lock ring to grip. Stainless is just too hard and will pull right out.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Thank you sir, just the info I was looking for.


----------



## shinji2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Thank you sir, just the info I was looking for.


I've seen people use both types, so it's up to what you want. The 1/2 hard straight stuff is a little harder to work with since you need a decent bender, but it also looks a little better. It's pretty much impossible to get the coiled annealed tube straight and you can usually tell on longer runs that it isn't straight. Usually the coiled is thinner walled so it's easy to bend by hand, but all the metric on mcmaster has 1mm walls so it probably won't be that much easier to bend than the straight stuff.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shinji2k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Thank you sir, just the info I was looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen people use both types, so it's up to what you want. The 1/2 hard straight stuff is a little harder to work with since you need a decent bender, but it also looks a little better. It's pretty much impossible to get the coiled annealed tube straight and you can usually tell on longer runs that it isn't straight. Usually the coiled is thinner walled so it's easy to bend by hand, but all the metric on mcmaster has 1mm walls so it probably won't be that much easier to bend than the straight stuff.
Click to expand...

I was hoping the non bendable sticks actually were bendable because I really didn't need 10m. I wanted to use a stick so my runs will be straight. I luckily work with a guy that his wife works for a metal tubing supplier and will be finding out if I can get any discounts since they order from McMaster


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shinji2k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I have a question for you guys that know more about copper tubing than me, on this website they list under copper metric seamless tubing a straight "non bendable" tube and a "bendable with bender" coil. Which would you want to use for watercooling? Is the straight tube really un-bendable and would the coiled tubing be to soft for push fittings? The only reason I ask is my build needs some 180 degree bends and hard piping would work best and I just don't want to order some that I cant bend and later plate. Thanks for any insight you might have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-tubing/=krls2a
> 
> 
> 
> *The coiled copper is definitely softer than the straight tube. The problem with the coiled stuff is you have to straighten it out by hand before you use it, which can be tricky. I don't know why mcmaster lists the straight tube as not bendable, it certainly is with a bender. Coiled can be bent by hand but if you want a tight radius you will need a bender. You might also think about using some kind of insert while bending the coiled, it will tend to flatten more than the straight if you aren't careful.*
Click to expand...

Very much this,i did cover it earlier in this thread.
For the thin walled annealed tube,i wouldnt use a bender at all,form the bends with your hands and/or a spring.
The half hard straight tube is easily bendable with a pair of benders.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shinji2k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I have a question for you guys that know more about copper tubing than me, on this website they list under copper metric seamless tubing a straight "non bendable" tube and a "bendable with bender" coil. Which would you want to use for watercooling? Is the straight tube really un-bendable and would the coiled tubing be to soft for push fittings? The only reason I ask is my build needs some 180 degree bends and hard piping would work best and I just don't want to order some that I cant bend and later plate. Thanks for any insight you might have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-tubing/=krls2a
> 
> 
> 
> *The coiled copper is definitely softer than the straight tube. The problem with the coiled stuff is you have to straighten it out by hand before you use it, which can be tricky. I don't know why mcmaster lists the straight tube as not bendable, it certainly is with a bender. Coiled can be bent by hand but if you want a tight radius you will need a bender. You might also think about using some kind of insert while bending the coiled, it will tend to flatten more than the straight if you aren't careful.*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Very much this,i did cover it earlier in this thread.
> For the thin walled annealed tube,i wouldnt use a bender at all,form the bends with your hands and/or a spring.
> The half hard straight tube is easily bendable with a pair of benders.
Click to expand...

While I understand the difference between coiled and sticks and read your earlier posts I wasn't sure thanks to McMasters wording if their pipe was truly unbendable.


----------



## PCCstudent

I use only the soft.Flattening has not been a problem(I have a quality bender,thing cost 90.00).You straighten the coiled out by cutting off the lenght you need then rolling it on a flat surface (the concrete floor works very well).The more you roll it on the concrete floor the straighter it gets.

The compression fittings shown by skyhigh seal on the inside of the plastic tubing hence it is called "10mm". Real hard (or semi hard) copper pipe comes in various sizes.The 1/2" stuff that is being compared to the 10mm is 12.7mm(O.D.) and it seals on the ferrel,on the outside. Compression fittings for plastic tubing are not the same as compression fittings for copper pipe (we have had this discussion for several years).


----------



## PepeLapiu

Okay so I have been thinking about using copper pipes for my next build. But what I dont get is the fittings: where do i get fitting to connect my copper pipe to a G1/4 thread?


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> I use only the soft.Flattening has not been a problem(I have a quality bender,thing cost 90.00).You straighten the coiled out by cutting off the lenght you need then rolling it on a flat surface (the concrete floor works very well).The more you roll it on the concrete floor the straighter it gets.
> 
> The compression fittings shown by skyhigh seal on the inside of the plastic tubing hence it is called "10mm". Real hard (or semi hard) copper pipe comes in various sizes.The 1/2" stuff that is being compared to the 10mm is 12.7mm(O.D.) and it seals on the ferrel,on the outside. Compression fittings for plastic tubing are not the same as compression fittings for copper pipe (we have had this discussion for several years).


I'm talking about using 10mm OD metric copper tubing with 10mm OD push fittings. I'm not interested in ferrel or standard compression fittings at all, they are way to ugly for a PC build IMHO.


----------



## PCCstudent

Pepe. The Koolance site sells the fittings for 1/4 3/8 and 1/2. I have bought these fittings and they are quality (they run right at 10.00 each). One side screws into our G1/4 and the other side comes with the ferrel and the jam nut.I am getting the feeling that Koolance may drop this line (OK it is only a feeling but they are dropping a lot of fittings). Going with copper pipe has such a cool look but it is labor intensive (unless you are a "wizz" with that bender). I do want to try a cpu loop in 1/4.My feeling is the 1/4 just may introduce problems in a cpu loop,but I am willing to try and see.The 1/4 pipe will be cheaper also.If you go to the Koolance site and cant find them let me know.Oh yeah,you want to order some extra ferrels (in the correct size) as mistakes happen.My big mistake is bending 180 opposite of what I want.You can mock up the bends you need for you pipe with a piece of stiff wire (usually used for welding)


----------



## rjajmr0221

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Me and you both!
> Hate to think how many miles of tube I have cut,bent and welded in my time.....


make that 3. 2nd gen. family business owner, going on 15 years personally.


----------



## kHaN x

Just wanted to chime in and say that this thread has helped me make the jump into copper piping my build. I was very hesitant but took the plunge.

I was looking to purchase from McMaster but went with coppertubingsales.com. The prices were a little cheaper and good service. I went with the Bitspower SLI fittings. I know there is risk since there is no clamping but on my test cut and fitting, this thing isn't coming off. The double O-Ring is very snug against the 12mm copper tubing.

Additionally, with a quality bender (mine was $90) then the bends will come out magnificently.

I did a test bend of 160-70 degree bend, I didn't go to 180 for some goodball reason but whatever. It's a test piece.


There is no flattening and just great even bends.

Now just need time to finish this projectso I can bend away


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kHaN x*
> 
> Just wanted to chime in and say that this thread has helped me make the jump into copper piping my build. I was very hesitant but took the plunge.
> 
> I was looking to purchase from McMaster but went with coppertubingsales.com. The prices were a little cheaper and good service. I went with the Bitspower SLI fittings. I know there is risk since there is no clamping but on my test cut and fitting, this thing isn't coming off. The double O-Ring is very snug against the 12mm copper tubing.
> 
> Additionally, with a quality bender (mine was $90) then the bends will come out magnificently.
> 
> I did a test bend of 160-70 degree bend, I didn't go to 180 for some goodball reason but whatever. It's a test piece.
> 
> 
> There is no flattening and just great even bends.
> 
> Now just need time to finish this projectso I can bend away


Im glad it helped,rep it if you can.


----------



## kHaN x

I rep'd it a while back. Great thread


----------



## PCCstudent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I'm talking about using 10mm OD metric copper tubing with 10mm OD push fittings. I'm not interested in ferrel or standard compression fittings at all, they are way to ugly for a PC build IMHO.


Because I do not have the rights to copy and paste the page with these fittings here, I will not. The text that goes along with the fittings for the 10mm 0.D. (3/8") copper pipe state they are for use with a ferrel. As far as looks go, these fittings follow the theme of any of Koolances fittings and for that matter any of the fittings used industry wide.I really doubt you are going to find adaquate sealing using a copper pipe in place of where a piece of plastic tubing is intended. I would suggest not ordering all that you need until you actually see the sealing effect


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I'm talking about using 10mm OD metric copper tubing with 10mm OD push fittings. I'm not interested in ferrel or standard compression fittings at all, they are way to ugly for a PC build IMHO.
> 
> 
> 
> Because I do not have the rights to copy and paste the page with these fittings here, I will not. The text that goes along with the fittings for the 10mm 0.D. (3/8") copper pipe state they are for use with a ferrel. As far as looks go, these fittings follow the theme of any of Koolances fittings and for that matter any of the fittings used industry wide.I really doubt you are going to find adaquate sealing using a copper pipe in place of where a piece of plastic tubing is intended. I would suggest not ordering all that you need until you actually see the seaking effect
Click to expand...

Well the OP did as this guide was written using chrome plated tubing (harder than plain copper) and the fittings I quoted the OP linking. I'm pretty confused as to what your trying to say in the rest of your post. The push fittings B Negative linked to work with copper tubing in 10mm OD, which is not the same as 3/8. 3/8 is actually 9.525mm. The 10mm tubing I linked has an OD tolerance of 0.010 mm so definitely not the same size as 3/8 tubing.


----------



## PCCstudent

One more time.Compression fittings designed to be used with copper pipe are not the same as compression fittings designed to be used with plastic tubing.If you use a compression fitting designed to be used on plastic tubing on copper pipe,it will leak.

EDIT: When you look at the description of the fittings for copper pipe on the Koolance site is there any indication that they also will work with plastic tubing? Looking at it the other way,when you look at the description of compression fittings designed to be used with plastic tubing is the any indication that they will also work with copper pipe?

EDIT. I have here at home some compression fittings designed to be used with1/2 plastic tubing.I also have some pieces of 1/2 copper pipe (the soft stuff) it is obvious that the two will not work together.When my camera batteries charge up I will take some pics.I also have some 1/2 plastic tubing that is designed to be used with these fittings.As well as still pictures will allow I will try and show you.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> One more time.Compression fittings designed to be used with copper pipe are not the same as compression fittings designed to be used with plastic tubing.If you use a compression fitting designed to be used on plastic tubing on copper pipe,it will leak.


I've worked with both types of fittings numerous times at my job. I never had a question about how to use a certain fitting or the differences between them. My only question was if a certain type of tubing was bendable or not despite a websites description. Thanks for putting the info out there for someone who may need it but its irrelevant to my question which was already answered.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I'm talking about using 10mm OD metric copper tubing with 10mm OD push fittings. I'm not interested in ferrel or standard compression fittings at all, they are way to ugly for a PC build IMHO.


Pictures? Links?
This could be interesting.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I'm talking about using 10mm OD metric copper tubing with 10mm OD push fittings. I'm not interested in ferrel or standard compression fittings at all, they are way to ugly for a PC build IMHO.
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures? Links?
> This could be interesting.
Click to expand...

Its all linked in the OP and third post.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I'm talking about using 10mm OD metric copper tubing with 10mm OD push fittings. I'm not interested in ferrel or standard compression fittings at all, they are way to ugly for a PC build IMHO.
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures? Links?
> This could be interesting.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I'm talking about using 10mm OD metric copper tubing with 10mm OD push fittings. I'm not interested in ferrel or standard compression fittings at all, they are way to ugly for a PC build IMHO.
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures? Links?
> This could be interesting.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Its all linked in the OP and third post.
Click to expand...

This is the finished result.
This has been transported to LAN shows undrained and no leaks.



To clear all this confusion up,there are 3 readily available fittings for this that dont require tools other than a spanner.

1. Pushfit fittings,these are for 10mm tube or 12mm tube. do not use imperial tube. These can be used with plastic tube if the plastic tube has a metal insert.



2. Bitspower sli fittings,these work with 12mm tube only,do not use a imperial tube. These cannot be used with plastic flexible tube



3. Compression fittings. These are not for use with plastic flexible tube,rigid metal tube only.



1.


----------



## shinji2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> One more time.Compression fittings designed to be used with copper pipe are not the same as compression fittings designed to be used with plastic tubing.If you use a compression fitting designed to be used on plastic tubing on copper pipe,it will leak.
> EDIT: When you look at the description of the fittings for copper pipe on the Koolance site is there any indication that they also will work with plastic tubing? Looking at it the other way,when you look at the description of compression fittings designed to be used with plastic tubing is the any indication that they will also work with copper pipe?
> EDIT. I have here at home some compression fittings designed to be used with1/2 plastic tubing.I also have some pieces of 1/2 copper pipe (the soft stuff) it is obvious that the two will not work together.When my camera batteries charge up I will take some pics.I also have some 1/2 plastic tubing that is designed to be used with these fittings.As well as still pictures will allow I will try and show you.


Why do you keep going on about compression fittings? No one here is considering using compression fittings of any kind. Most of us here like the look of copper tubing but want a convenient and more secure alternative to the Bitspower fittings. Yes, the push fit fittings are designed for flexible plastic tubing but they actually work pretty well for softer metals. I use them along with flexible tubing at work for hooking up pneumatics and to be honest, they seem to work better with copper tube. Granted I'm using much higher pressures at work, but with a good yank I can pull the tubing right out of the fitting. OTOH the copper tubing won't budge even with all my might. The o-ring seals well and with the lock ring it's gotta be better than the SLI fittings. And anyways if I wanted truly secure connections with copper I definitely wouldn't be using compression fittings, I'd get out my flaring tools and do it properly.


----------



## PCCstudent

I use only #3,looks great,easy to fit,no problem handling the pressures in a watercooled system.I think the issue was this being the first mention of push fit connectors (really cheesy in my eyes).If looks are what you are going for #1 is a clear loser #2 should not be in the building #3 takes home all the prizes.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shinji2k*
> 
> Most of us here like the look of copper tubing but want a convenient and more secure alternative to the Bitspower fittings.


Oh! The Bitspower fitting is not convenient or secure?
Because it would look the best of all 3 in my build.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> I use only #3,looks great,easy to fit,no problem handling the pressures in a watercooled system.I think the issue was this being the first mention of push fit connectors (really cheesy in my eyes).If looks are what you are going for #1 is a clear loser #2 should not be in the building #3 takes home all the prizes.


Then you dont know very much.....
There is no pressure of any worth in a WC loop,certainly nothing that will tax any of those fittings.
Those compression fittings have to be torqued tight in place and you run the risk of damaging any threads not made of metal.
If the fitting is in an awkward position then you can forget using those fittings as you cant get 2 spanners in to tighten them.
They WILL leak if not torqued down enough and you must have the olive replaced every time you change something.

Push fit wins all day long,15 bar rated fitting thats easy to use,its what i use and recommend.

Why do you think Koolance are dropping those fittings?


----------



## PCCstudent

The type of leaks you get with the ferrel fitting is the dreaded 1 drop every 30 seconds.At times these can be frustrating.Perhaps B Negative can inform shinj that he does not have to get out his flaring tools "to do the job properly".I have not been invited into any Koolance inventory reduction meetings. I do like the quick take down ability with #3 and I have learned my loop disassembly order so that a backup wrench can always be used.You just have to learn you loop better if you are finding "spanner" positioning a challenge.Olives (or as Koolance sells them, ferrels) are only .69 cents,I can deal with that cost.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> The type of leaks you get with the ferrel fitting is the dreaded 1 drop every 30 seconds.At times these can be frustrating.Perhaps B Negative can inform shinj that he does not have to get out his flaring tools "to do the job properly".I have not been invited into any Koolance inventory reduction meetings. I do like the quick take down ability with #3 and I have learned my loop disassembly order so that a backup wrench can always be used.You just have to learn you loop better if you are finding "spanner" positioning a challenge.Olives (or as Koolance sells them, ferrels) are only .69 cents,I can deal with that cost.


Pics of this loop that you keep going on about please.

I have done 3 loops with copper tubing,i am also a plumber of a number of years,I still would use pushfit over compression fittings for this purpose
Far easier to disassemble for maintenance and no need to 'learn my loop' as you put it.
Learn to accept that not everyone thinks as you do.


----------



## PCCstudent

How about those flaring tools needed "to do the job properly".


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> I use only #3,looks great,easy to fit,no problem handling the pressures in a watercooled system.I think the issue was this being the first mention of push fit connectors (really cheesy in my eyes).If looks are what you are going for #1 is a clear loser #2 should not be in the building #3 takes home all the prizes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCCstudent*
> 
> The type of leaks you get with the ferrel fitting is the dreaded 1 drop every 30 seconds.At times these can be frustrating.Perhaps B Negative can inform shinj that he does not have to get out his flaring tools "to do the job properly".I have not been invited into any Koolance inventory reduction meetings. I do like the quick take down ability with #3 and I have learned my loop disassembly order so that a backup wrench can always be used.You just have to learn you loop better if you are finding "spanner" positioning a challenge.Olives (or as Koolance sells them, ferrels) are only .69 cents,I can deal with that cost.


Where are pics of this loop? None to be found in the OCN WC picture database and none in your profile.........


----------



## PepeLapiu

Okay guys, this is not my first WC rodeo but it will be my first with metal tubing. So I wanna run this by you before I click the "Check Out" button to make sure I got the right stuff.

First is my tubing of choice: copper straight 10mm OD and 1mm wall thickness.

Then the fittings: I decided to go with the push fit kind. 10mm G1/4 black plastic fitting
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p2324_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting-black-plastics.html
I want black, isn't there anything not plastic in black?
Also, any North American suppliers for this stuff?

Cheers and thanx


----------



## PepeLapiu

Double post......sorry about that!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Okay guys, this is not my first WC rodeo but it will be my first with metal tubing. So I wanna run this by you before I click the "Check Out" button to make sure I got the right stuff.
> First is my tubing of choice: copper straight 10mm OD and 1mm wall thickness.
> Then the fittings: I decided to go with the push fit kind. 10mm G1/4 black plastic fitting
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p2324_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting-black-plastics.html
> I want black, isn't there anything not plastic in black?
> Also, any North American suppliers for this stuff?
> Cheers and thanx


I asked B-Negative about those fittings and he said they would work. I believe he used them in his Mil-Spec build and they worked fine.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Okay guys, this is not my first WC rodeo but it will be my first with metal tubing. So I wanna run this by you before I click the "Check Out" button to make sure I got the right stuff.
> First is my tubing of choice: copper straight 10mm OD and 1mm wall thickness.
> Then the fittings: I decided to go with the push fit kind. 10mm G1/4 black plastic fitting
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p2324_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting-black-plastics.html
> I want black, isn't there anything not plastic in black?
> Also, any North American suppliers for this stuff?
> Cheers and thanx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I asked B-Negative about those fittings and he said they would work. I believe he used them in his Mil-Spec build and they worked fine.
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

I use those fittings for all my hard piped builds,I use the black nickel versions myself.

Cheap and effective.


----------



## deafboy

Whoa! Those plastic ones really look like a cheap version of mine, lol.

And this whole debate what is better/worse fittings wise is absolutely ******ed. Pure and simple, they are all overkill for PC builds and they will all work just fine. And 1 drop every 30 seconds is still a leak and should be dealt with. Looks are subjective so moot point in arguing about that.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Please admin, delete


----------



## PepeLapiu

Sorry for the 4 duplicate posts. I dont know why it does this.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Well Be Negative, I just spent about 3-400$ of fittings and tools specific to 10 mm OD copper tubing and I gotta say that 1 mm wall and 8 mm ID makes for rather small restrictive tubes.

You know where I could get some push fit fittings for 12 mm OD tubing?


----------



## PepeLapiu

Well Be Negative, I just spent about 3-400$ of fittings and tools specific to 10 mm OD copper tubing and I gotta say that 1 mm wall and 8 mm ID makes for rather small restrictive tubes.

You know where I could get some push fit fittings for 12 mm OD tubing?


----------



## Willi

just received the Bitspower Multilink Adapters from PPC and on my first test with the acrylic tubing I got, I am assured that the tubing WON´T slip off. Its very tight and very secure against the o-rings, and I think the pipe is a fraction of a milimeter larger than the fitting, because there were scratch marks on the tip of the pipe that went inside the fitting (but they are invisible from outside and looking through the pipe into the fitting, I could actually see the two o-rings pressing against the pipe, making a nice and visible seal). That fact helped keeping the pipe in place, so it looks like I´ll be using them as soon as I get my pipe-bending skills in order.

So yeah, acrylic pipe, here I come... I just need to know how to remove scratches from the acrylic, since it´s pretty marked from the transportation...


----------



## SpykeZ

Funny this thread was on top because I was about to start a new thread asking about something like this.

My questions however is I'm looking for red anodized aluminum tubing to go with a build I'm gearing up for, but dunno where to buy it.. Also what would be the best fittings to use for something like this? I was thinking compression?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Funny this thread was on top because I was about to start a new thread asking about something like this.
> 
> My questions however is I'm looking for red anodized aluminum tubing to go with a build I'm gearing up for, but dunno where to buy it.. Also what would be the best fittings to use for something like this? I was thinking compression?


Do not use Alu for any watercooling purposes,it reacts with copper and you get accelerated galvanic corrosion.

Basically,it turns all the nice copper to crap.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> just received the Bitspower Multilink Adapters from PPC and on my first test with the acrylic tubing I got, I am assured that the tubing WON´T slip off. Its very tight and very secure against the o-rings, and I think the pipe is a fraction of a milimeter larger than the fitting, because there were scratch marks on the tip of the pipe that went inside the fitting (but they are invisible from outside and looking through the pipe into the fitting, I could actually see the two o-rings pressing against the pipe, making a nice and visible seal). That fact helped keeping the pipe in place, so it looks like I´ll be using them as soon as I get my pipe-bending skills in order.
> 
> So yeah, acrylic pipe, here I come... I just need to know how to remove scratches from the acrylic, since it´s pretty marked from the transportation...


This is a simple guide to flame polish sawn acrylic edges to get that finished look.

For this you will need..

A jet torch.
This are available everywhere,you want a blue jet to concentrate the heat

Get familiar with it first,find out how to turn it off in a hurry!





Sawn edge....not pretty.



You want the jet tip to be just floating above the sawn edge inline with the sheet.



Play along the edge you want to polish,dont linger in any one spot.



Done correctly the edge should fall to a uniform colour.



Surface scratches can also be 'rubbed out' with the same method.







As always,ventilation is a must!!

Practice on scrap before the workpiece and store the gas away from your work area.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do not use Alu for any watercooling purposes,it reacts with copper and you get accelerated galvanic corrosion.
> Basically,it turns all the nice copper to crap.


uh where is there copper? Or just water hitting the jetplates? What type of metal should i be using.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do not use Alu for any watercooling purposes,it reacts with copper and you get accelerated galvanic corrosion.
> Basically,it turns all the nice copper to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> uh where is there copper? Or just water hitting the jetplates? What type of metal should i be using.
Click to expand...

The base plates are copper,its a fundamental of any watercooling loop that Alu is not present.

This Apogee block is very clear why we dont mix Alu and Cu


----------



## SpykeZ

So Stainless Steel than?


----------



## SpykeZ

Ah I see you used copper and had it plated. What about using stainless steel piping? I'm wanting to get the pipes anodized for a project I'm going to work on in the coming months. Or can copper be anodized? I also saw a few stores that sell titanium piping, that safe to use with copper?


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Ah I see you used copper and had it plated. What about using stainless steel piping? I'm wanting to get the pipes anodized for a project I'm going to work on in the coming months. Or can copper be anodized? I also saw a few stores that sell titanium piping, that safe to use with copper?


not very experienced with piping and such, but I work at a chemical company and I think you will need a hydraulic bender to be able to work with stainless steel (and you might need to apply some heat for it to bend properly).
It will probably depend on how hard the metal you want to work with is. Copper is the easiest because its pretty soft and easy to mold/bend/etc.. Stainless steel seems a bit too hard to work with watercooling in my opinion.

Titanium sounds badass in anything, but I think it's so hard you might break the tubing instead of bending if you try using a hydraulic bender. I don't think it's possible to bend stainless steel or titanium by hand alone.

Go with copper, I think you can get that anodized finish on it. A quick look on google images says its possible, but I would be careful because you might make the pipe more fragile since anodizing removes some of it's thickness.

If you want you can chrome or nickel plate it to get that nice mirror finish, but that might cost a bit. Pre-chromed pipes might flake the chroming finish if you try to bend them, I believe.


----------



## deafboy

You can bend the stainless without too much trouble with the hand benders but you have to get special fittings for stainless as most push fit fittings don't have enough bit to grab the stainless.


----------



## Willi

Oh, and B Neg, thanks a lot for that tutorial on how to recover acrylic surfaces...
I live in brazil so it might be a bit harder to get that jet torch. Is it the one people use to cook/flambe desserts? If it is, it might be a bit easier...


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> You can bend the stainless without too much trouble with the hand benders but you have to get special fittings for stainless as most push fit fittings don't have enough bit to grab the stainless.


didn't know that... I always saw the guys having some trouble when dealing with stainless steel... but the piping they play with is as thick as my arm.


----------



## SpykeZ

I looked on google some to find if copper was able to be anodized but it appears it's only aluminum copper? wth is aluminum copper? lol. I guess I'll just order some red sleeves to fit over the pipes. I like copper and all but not in the build I'm going to be doing, it'll look tacky. At least with the metal piping I can still have that nice straight looking pipe look with nice bends without the hose effect.


----------



## Willi

I think you can sleeve it with red-chromed metallic braid (if you can find it, but this is OCN, people seem to find the most impossible parts for casemodding, it seems).
An example is Synthetic Anatomy casemod by Rognin, but he used normal, flexible tubing, which seems to be a PITA to work with the braid. I believe that copper piping might make things a lot easier, the problem might be getting a nice finish when the pipe meets the fitting.


----------



## SpykeZ

ugh, cool idea but I can't find anything colord, it's all SS. Wonder if that could at least be anodized? haha


----------



## PepeLapiu

I would just go with copper. I think mixing metals in a loop is just bad practice.
Once bent you can paint your copper pretty much any color you want with a can of spray paint.


----------



## Wicked x Josh

Im planning on doing a watercooling build with piping and wanted to run my final list by someone since this will be my first time using the metal piping.

This is the tubing I chose:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-tubing/=kwfjsj

Going with the 1/4 OD with .01 wall. Product #89895K44

Then for the fittings I found these:
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p5346_10mm-G1-4-Plug----nickel-plated.html
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p5347_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting-90--revolvable---complete-nickel-coated.html

Should that be fine?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The tubing needs to be 10mm OD for those fittings
I cant say as to whether a imperial size will fit.


----------



## Wicked x Josh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The tubing needs to be 10mm OD for those fittings
> I cant say as to whether a imperial size will fit.


Any idea where to find the right fittings for imperial size?

Or what is the exact tubing you used? I tried to figure it out but you dont say it anywhere,


----------



## PepeLapiu

That tubing is 1/4" or about 6 mm.
No way you are going to fit a 10mm fitting to a 6 mm tube.

Besides, 6 mm OD and 1 mm wall will give you a 4 mm ID tube. That's way too small.
I mean I find my 10 mm OD 1 mm wall tubes small. Yours would be 4 times smaller, way too small. I would not go smaller than 8 mm ID (or around 3/8" ID)


----------



## Wicked x Josh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> That tubing is 1/4" or about 6 mm.
> No way you are going to fit a 10mm fitting to a 6 mm tube.
> Besides, 6 mm OD and 1 mm wall will give you a 4 mm ID tube. That's way too small.
> I mean I find my 10 mm OD 1 mm wall tubes small. Yours would be 4 times smaller, way too small. I would not go smaller than 8 mm ID (or around 3/8" ID)


Ya, I realized my mistake earlier when I woke up. I tried to put this list together at midnight well sick with the flu. Not exactly the best time to be thinking.

I found the 10mm tubing that I like I just have a new question.

There is two options for the 10mm, weld or compression fittings. What is the difference and would it really make a difference for something like this to use the weld fit? I only ask since its half the price.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Here is what I mean: typical water coolers will use 1/2 inch ID plastic tubing. That would give you a 123 mm square of flow area.
My pipes, which I consider to be a bit on the small side, are 10 mm OD and 1 mm wall. That gives you around 50 mm square of flow area - 60% less flow area when comparing to the popular 1/2 inch tubes.
I intend to double up most of my pipes with this fitting to counter the smallish pipes:
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p1002_10mm-G1-4-Y-plug-fitting-black.html

Now you want to use 6 mm OD pipes with 1 mm walls. That gives us a 4 mm ID for a
flow area of less than 13 mm square. Four times less than my smallish pipes and ten times less than the popular 1/2 inch tubing.

You would have to use 4 of your pipes to get as good a flow as my 10 mm pipes and that's still not enought in my books.

Go with at least 8 mm ID pipes I say, the very strict minimum to me.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Sorry for the duplicate post. My phone keeps doing that.


----------



## Wicked x Josh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Here is what I mean: typical water coolers will use 1/2 inch ID plastic tubing. That would give you a 123 mm square of flow area.
> My pipes, which I consider to be a bit on the small side, are 10 mm OD and 1 mm wall. That gives you around 50 mm square of flow area - 60 less flow area when comparing to the popular 1/2 inch tubes.
> I intend to double up most of my pipes with this fitting to counter the smallish pipes:
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p1002_10mm-G1-4-Y-plug-fitting-black.html
> Now you want to use 6 mm OD pipes with 1 mm walls. That gives us a 4 mm ID for a
> flow area of less than 13 mm square. Four times less than my smallish pipes and ten times less than the popular 1/2 inch tubing.
> You would have to use 4 of your pipes to get as good a flow as my 10 mm pipes and that's still not enought in my books.
> Go with at least 8 mm ID pipes I say, the very strict minimum to me.


As I said above, I realized my mistake and have adjusted accordingly to 10mm.

Now the double piping Idea is interesting, cant wait to see it finished.

And I know it wont make to much of a difference but this is all going into a micro-atx build so the length between radiator and heat sinks wont be that far.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Tube bore plays very little part in flow rates or temps.
Between 13mm and 8mm tube is around 0.5c.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wicked x Josh*
> 
> I found the 10mm tubing that I like I just have a new question.
> There is two options for the 10mm, weld or compression fittings. What is the difference and would it really make a difference for something like this to use the weld fit? I only ask since its half the price.


I am not experienced with hard pipes since this is going to be my first build with hard pipes. Be Negative will probably know more.

However, I am experienced with push fit fittings from work. There the push fit fittings are used for 200 psi compressed air. And I can say I know those types of fittings and I like them so that's what I'm going with.

Look them up, the loop would likely be more easily taken apart with push fits then with welded fittings.

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/index.php/cat/c456_10mm.html


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Tube bore plays very little part in flow rates or temps.
> Between 13mm and 8mm tube is around 0.5c.


Yeah, but below 8 mm it becomes a challenge to get a flow rate of 1 or 1.5 gpm.
Down to a certain size there are no noticeable performance drop, but there has to be an acceptable threshold.


----------



## Wicked x Josh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I am not experienced with hard pipes since this is going to be my first build with hard pipes. Be Negative will probably know more.
> However, I am experienced with push fit fittings from work. There the push fit fittings are used for 200 psi compressed air. And I can say I know those types of fittings and I like them so that's what I'm going with.
> Look them up, the loop would likely be more easily taken apart with push fits then with welded fittings.
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/index.php/cat/c456_10mm.html


Well that's the thing, I want to use the push fittings, its just the tubing for push fit is 2x as much as weld fit so I was just curious what the difference was?


----------



## Willi

if the weld-fittings you're talking about are similar to this then you got a problem, since you'll have to weld the pipe to the fitting (literally) and that might be a serious issue when you start your final build.

I'd go with push-fittings (unfortunately I cant find it in my country, since they sell it by a 100pieces minimum). They are safer and hold the pipe in place, and some even look good.


----------



## Wicked x Josh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> if the weld-fittings you're talking about are similar to this then you got a problem, since you'll have to weld the pipe to the fitting (literally) and that might be a serious issue when you start your final build.
> I'd go with push-fittings (unfortunately I cant find it in my country, since they sell it by a 100pieces minimum). They are safer and hold the pipe in place, and some even look good.


Well thats the issue, I have no idea what they actually mean because they are talking about the tubing, not the actual fittings. If you go to this link:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-tubing/=kx6tgw

And click on the "metric smooth-bore stainless steel tubing", its all the way to the right, second from the top, they have the two types of pipe. I cant find any info on what the difference is between the two of them.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Damn it!!
I ordered a whole bunch of tools and fittings for my copper pipes, including a bender and 20 fittings from Europe. But today McMaster just replied to my order saying they will not ship to Canada.

I looked where I could but could find nowhere to get 10mm copper pipes here in Canada.

Maybe I should try 3/8" pipes and see if that fits.

Any ideas? That would help here!?!?


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Damn it!!
> I ordered a whole bunch of tools and fittings for my copper pipes, including a bender and 20 fittings from Europe. But today McMaster just replied to my order saying they will not ship to Canada.
> I looked where I could but could find nowhere to get 10mm copper pipes here in Canada.
> Maybe I should try 3/8" pipes and see if that fits.
> Any ideas? That would help here!?!?


Not sure what fittings you ordered. But 3/8" won't work on 10mm fittings.


----------



## PepeLapiu

3/8" is 9.525 mm so almost half a mm smaller.
These are the fittings I ordered:
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/index.php/cat/c456_10mm.html

I plan on painting my pipes anyway so that ads a bit of thickness.
I'm just going to have to experiment with a small lenght of tube and see if that can work.
Otherwise I end up with 400$ of tools and fittings that become worthless.....unless I can find a way to get some 10mm tubing in Canada.


----------



## Nitrogannex

I have a really stupid question

I've seen this done before but I'm still a bit confused, are you sliding the pipes over traditional rubber tubing or using the pipes bare. I've always figured it would be leaky to just use the pipes bare because the compression fitting wouldn't be able to grip the pipe

Either way, going to have to try this


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> 3/8" is 9.525 mm so almost half a mm smaller.
> These are the fittings I ordered:
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/index.php/cat/c456_10mm.html
> I plan on painting my pipes anyway so that ads a bit of thickness.
> I'm just going to have to experiment with a small lenght of tube and see if that can work.
> Otherwise I end up with 400$ of tools and fittings that become worthless.....unless I can find a way to get some 10mm tubing in Canada.


Not going to work. Had those same fittings and tried 3/8 with no luck. They fit and held but they leaked. That's why I ended up using different fittings so I can use 3/8" tubing


----------



## PepeLapiu

Well maybe I can flare the tube to 10mm, wouldnt take much. Here's a video of a flaring tool. That would not work but may e something lime that just enough to flare it out to 10mm.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Damn it! Why does my phone keep making 4 duplicates of my posts! Damn android!
Sorry about that guys.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitrogannex*
> 
> I have a really stupid question
> I've seen this done before but I'm still a bit confused, are you sliding the pipes over traditional rubber tubing or using the pipes bare. I've always figured it would be leaky to just use the pipes bare because the compression fitting wouldn't be able to grip the pipe
> Either way, going to have to try this


We dont use normal WC fittings. They are special hard pipe fittings. Here is just one example:
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/index.php/cat/c456_10mm.html


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Well maybe I can flare the tube to 10mm, wouldnt take much. Here's a video of a flaring tool. That would not work but may e something lime that just enough to flare it out to 10mm.


GL...that's just asking for trouble IMO


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Well maybe I can flare the tube to 10mm, wouldnt take much. Here's a video of a flaring tool. That would not work but may e something lime that just enough to flare it out to 10mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GL...that's just asking for trouble IMO
Click to expand...

Agreed.
Use the correct OD tube or it will end in tears


----------



## voldomazta

I've read here that you can use this for 12mm OD pipes (_same OD as the Crystal Link tubes we use these for_). The problem is we have imperial units here so the closest I can get is 1/2" tubing.

12mm = 0.472441in

so there is a difference of about *0.027559 in* or about *0.699mm*. Now I don't have that much experience with pipes apparently but will the 0.699m difference of the pipe be too big for it to fit the BP C47?


----------



## PepeLapiu

I dont know where you are but if you are in the States you can get 12mm copper tubes here:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/155/=kyuj5o


----------



## Jeffinslaw

I got a question... I found some 10MM OD acrylic tubing for a very inexpensive price. Do you guys think the Aquatunning push-fit connectors will work?

Here is the tubing in question: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Acrylic-Perspex-OD-10mm-x-1mm-x-1M-long-Clear-Tubing/410779_570310825.html

It is 10MM OD and 8MM ID. I think the fittings would work but I will wait for someone with more experience to comment first before I buy.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## PepeLapiu

I dont know how rigid that tubing is. But at work, I use push-fit fitting with some sort of plastic rigid tubing. It does work with air pressure up to 200 psi. I dont play with higher pressure than that.

So if your tubes are fairly rigid I would say it will work.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I got a question... I found some 10MM OD acrylic tubing for a very inexpensive price. Do you guys think the Aquatunning push-fit connectors will work?
> 
> Here is the tubing in question: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Acrylic-Perspex-OD-10mm-x-1mm-x-1M-long-Clear-Tubing/410779_570310825.html
> 
> It is 10MM OD and 8MM ID. I think the fittings would work but I will wait for someone with more experience to comment first before I buy.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Where at in washington are you? I have some spare aquatuning fittings you can play with if ya want.

It should work but I would be slightly worried about the acrylic cracking. Should be fine though as long as it's the right OD and the fitting can get a bit on it (which it should).


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Where at in washington are you? I have some spare aquatuning fittings you can play with if ya want.
> 
> It should work but I would be slightly worried about the acrylic cracking. Should be fine though as long as it's the right OD and the fitting can get a bit on it (which it should).


I am in the Bellingham area! Does that work?

Jeffinslaw

P.S. We can move this conversation to PM if necessary.


----------



## voldomazta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I dont know where you are but if you are in the States you can get 12mm copper tubes here:
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/155/=kyuj5o


Here's what they said:
Quote:


> McMaster-Carr <***.****@mcmaster.com>
> 11:47 AM (1 hour ago)
> to me
> 
> Hi Ramon,
> 
> Due to the complexity of U.S. export regulations, McMaster-Carr accepts international orders only from our established customers. This decision also applies to orders shipping within the United States, because it is based on the final destination of the items. We will not provide a quotation or accept your orders.
> 
> Aaron


I live in the Philippines but we have a proxy courier in the US which I can send the pipes to which will send them to me. I wanted to order 5 pieces of 3ft pipes, I wonder how heavy that will be since our courier bases it on weight/dimensional weight. I am trying to import these pipes because all of them the pipes that are being sold here are in inches (1/2").

Also what is this export regulations they are talking about? It's just 5 pieces of copper!









Another question, will a 1/2" pipe bender work on a 12mm pipe?


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I am in the Bellingham area! Does that work?
> 
> Jeffinslaw
> 
> P.S. We can move this conversation to PM if necessary.


Crazy close, lol. PM'ed


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> Also what is this export regulations they are talking about? It's just 5 pieces of copper!


I have no idea why they refuse to ship international.
I live in Canada (next door to them) and they gave me the same reply.

I'm trying to figure out a way to have them ship to me. I might have to show I'm not a terrorist.


----------



## deafboy

Clearly I need to create a copper smuggling trade business, lol.


----------



## voldomazta

We would love that deafboy, you buy it for us and have it shipped our address of choice, mine will be my proxy address in the US. And we can pay you something extra for smuggling it for us.







However though I've heard prices for mcmaster were pretty steep, we should check first, around $9/meter would be okay for me.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Clearly I need to create a copper smuggling trade business, lol.


Well, pimpin' aint easy and whoring just sux.
But I might be interested, looking at a few options here.


----------



## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> Another question, will a 1/2" pipe bender work on a 12mm pipe?


Yes, it should. My bender was 1/2" and I used it for 12mm copper. The only bad part about my copper was that it was annealed and I froze water inside the pipes so the bends would be nice and smooth and not creased. Worked out pretty well.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Yes, it should. My bender was 1/2" and I used it for 12mm copper. The only bad part about my copper was that it was annealed and I froze water inside the pipes so the bends would be nice and smooth and not creased. Worked out pretty well.


Which fittings did you use for those 12mm pipes?


----------



## jacksonn24

hmm this looks like something id like to try.


----------



## voldomazta

Guys what do you think about adapters that do NPT > BSPP. This could open up a lot ot choices for the copper pipe fittings. Do you think adapters will make the loop more restrictive somehow?

Take a look at this for example:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=35190


----------



## deafboy

Open up choices in what sense? Most fittings that come in NPT come in BSPP, so unless you already have the NPT fittings it doesn't help much. IMO it kind of kills the look too, which is kind of the whole point of hard tube WC'ing.


----------



## voldomazta

You are right the fittings will end up too long which will ruin the look.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Okay, I am looking hard to find G1/4 to 3/8 pipe push connect fittings.
I was told thet are on Amazon but I can't find them anywhere.
I can find G1/4 fittings but only to metric pipes. I can also find 3/8 pipe fittings but not to G1/4 thread.

Anybody here can point me somewhere?

Edit: I would even go for G1/4 to 1/2" pipe fittings too. That would be even better.


----------



## voldomazta

G1/4" to 3/8":
MettleAir (Amazon)
MettleAir (Ebay)
Koolance

G1/4" to 1/2"
Koolance

I couldn't find any G1/4" to 1/2" from other brands.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Okay, I am looking hard to find G1/4 to 3/8 pipe push connect fittings.
> I was told thet are on Amazon but I can't find them anywhere.
> I can find G1/4 fittings but only to metric pipes. I can also find 3/8 pipe fittings but not to G1/4 thread.
> 
> Anybody here can point me somewhere?
> 
> Edit: I would even go for G1/4 to 1/2" pipe fittings too. That would be even better.


You can thank me later









http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007FEBXAK/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00\

Jeffinslaw


----------



## PepeLapiu

Yeah, or I could thank you now.
Thanx and rep to both of you.









I dont understand why my searches on google.ca, google.com, amazon.ca, and amazon.com all turned up nothing........old age!


----------



## PepeLapiu

Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to make that blue collar and nickel plating black. The collar should be easy.


----------



## hammerforged

Btw guys on those push to fits you've linked are designed for Polyurethane or Nylon tubing.

B Neg:

Would these fittings work with stainless steel 3/8" tubing and water? It says they are for compressed air and to contact for other uses (can't get ahold of them). They are very similar to the ones that you use. Any help is appreciated. I plan on using the Koolance adapter for BSPP to NPTF

http://www.hitechcontrols.com/camozzi/fittings/push-in-npt/p6510.html


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Btw guys on those push to fits you've linked are designed for Polyurethane or Nylon tubing.
> 
> B Neg:
> 
> Would these fittings work with stainless steel 3/8" tubing and water? It says they are for compressed air and to contact for other uses (can't get ahold of them). They are very similar to the ones that you use. Any help is appreciated. I plan on using the Koolance adapter for BSPP to NPTF
> 
> http://www.hitechcontrols.com/camozzi/fittings/push-in-npt/p6510.html


First off, those are the wrong threading, so they work. You need BSPP not NPT. Why use adapters if you don't have to?

Second, those likely won't have a strong enough bite to grab onto stainless as those are also designed for Nylon, Polyethylene, Poly urethane


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Okay, I am looking hard to find G1/4 to 3/8 pipe push connect fittings.
> I was told thet are on Amazon but I can't find them anywhere.
> I can find G1/4 fittings but only to metric pipes. I can also find 3/8 pipe fittings but not to G1/4 thread.
> 
> Anybody here can point me somewhere?
> 
> Edit: I would even go for G1/4 to 1/2" pipe fittings too. That would be even better.


You could have just asked me, lol. Or read my review or something.

One source for various sizes:
http://www.zorotools.com/g/00045615/k-G3002456?srccode=cii_13736960&cpncode=33-116927342-2&=&utm_source=channel_intelligence&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=shopping
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.b90576e27a4d71ae1bfcc510237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=c38888b5bd16e010VgnVCM1000000308a8c0RCRD&vgnextfmt=default

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to make that blue collar and nickel plating black. The collar should be easy.


Primer and paint... just be sure to cover the threads and stick a pipe in so you don't screw up the internals.

ie make a fitting popsicle:


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> First off, those are the wrong threading, so they work. You need BSPP not NPT. Why use adapters if you don't have to?
> 
> Second, those likely won't have a strong enough bite to grab onto stainless as those are also designed for Nylon, Polyethylene, Poly urethane


I would be using the Koolance adapter since those Camozzi fittings are NPTF and most water cooling fittings are G1/4 or BSPP from my understanding.

I actually just saw that







ha

Looking at all the other push to fit connectors people have used they seem to be the exact same style. As far as connecting to stainless B Neg was able to use such fittings on high polish tube. I understand sanding the connections it a must as well.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> I would be using the Koolance adapter since those Camozzi fittings are NPTF and most water cooling fittings are G1/4 or BSPP from my understanding.
> 
> I actually just saw that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ha
> 
> Looking at all the other push to fit connectors people have used they seem to be the exact same style. As far as connecting to stainless B Neg was able to use such fittings on high polish tube. I understand sanding the connections it a must as well.


1/4" BSPP = G 1/4

B-neg used plated copper, ie soft metal. Whether it's polished or not doesn't make much of a difference. Sanding can also cause issues. Stainless is simply too hard for the fittings to bite into. You would need fittings specifically for stainless.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I do not recommend sanding tube,even a small scratch will compromise the waterseal.
The cammozi fittings have any thread you like,you specify on ordering.
They also don't use the toothed ring method,their fitting is more like a Chinese finger trap.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> 1/4" BSPP = G 1/4
> 
> B-neg used plated copper, ie soft metal. Whether it's polished or not doesn't make much of a difference. Sanding can also cause issues. Stainless is simply too hard for the fittings to bite into. You would need fittings specifically for stainless.


Yeah I understand that. BSPP = G 1/4 Im just saying that you cannot order them in a standard pipe diameter such as 3/8" and have BSPP threads. They have to be NPTF which is why I would be ordering the adapters. Metric pipe size is very hard to come by in the states.

Sorry if Im causing any confusion ha.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do not recommend sanding tube,even a small scratch will compromise the waterseal.
> The cammozi fittings have any thread you like,you specify on ordering.
> They also don't use the toothed ring method,their fitting is more like a Chinese finger trap.


Thanks for the info.

So would I be able to use the stainless steel with the Cammozi fittings? Any suggestions?

Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> You could have just asked me, lol. Or read my review or something.
> 
> One source for various sizes:
> http://www.zorotools.com/g/00045615/k-G3002456?srccode=cii_13736960&cpncode=33-116927342-2&=&utm_source=channel_intelligence&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=shopping
> http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.b90576e27a4d71ae1bfcc510237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=c38888b5bd16e010VgnVCM1000000308a8c0RCRD&vgnextfmt=default
> Primer and paint... just be sure to cover the threads and stick a pipe in so you don't screw up the internals.
> 
> ie make a fitting popsicle:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Genius! This means I can use 3/8" copper and not spend a fortune! And since you are close to me, I could borrow your bender! (hopefully)!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Genius! This means I can use 3/8" copper and not spend a fortune! And since you are close to me, I could borrow your bender! (hopefully)!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


And if he doesn't I can lend you mine. It's for 10mm and 3/8" is 9.55mm so you might have to wrap the tube with duct tape to make up for the 0.45mm.
In fact, come to think of it, you could help me too, scratch each other's back kinda thing.

I would prefer to get 10mm pipes over 3/8" ones. I can lend you the bender and you can get order the tubing I require since McMaster won't ship to Canada.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do not recommend sanding tube,even a small scratch will compromise the waterseal.
> The cammozi fittings have any thread you like,you specify on ordering.
> They also don't use the toothed ring method,their fitting is more like a Chinese finger trap.


Interesting method

On a side note... I hate Chinese finger traps, lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Yeah I understand that. BSPP = G 1/4 Im just saying that you cannot order them in a standard pipe diameter such as 3/8" and have BSPP threads. They have to be NPTF which is why I would be ordering the adapters. Metric pipe size is very hard to come by in the states.
> 
> Sorry if Im causing any confusion ha.
> Thanks for the info.
> 
> So would I be able to use the stainless steel with the Cammozi fittings? Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks for the help guys.


Be sure to practice a lot before you mess with stainless.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Genius! This means I can use 3/8" copper and not spend a fortune! And since you are close to me, I could borrow your bender! (hopefully)!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


lol. Yeah, main reason I went with those fittings. Didn't want to mess around with metric tubing. And maybe, lol.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Primer and paint... just be sure to cover the threads and stick a pipe in so you don't screw up the internals.


The fittings pictured appear to be of brass fittings. The problem with nickel is that it's a lot harder and smoother, much like chrome. And primer will not stick to it.
I own a motorcycle which I customize. I got rid of all my chrome and painted it black. I had to dechrome the parts because the primer and paint would not stick to the smooth chrome surfaces.

Unfortunately, dechroming the fittings would eat away the plastic collar. And if these fittings are like other push connect fittings I worked with, I have no idea how to take the collar off to dechrome the part.

Im probably going to go with 10mm pipes since those fittings come in plastic and would be much easier to paint.y


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> The fittings pictured appear to be of brass fittings. The problem with nickel is that it's a lot harder and smoother, much like chrome. And primer will not stick to it.
> I own a motorcycle which I customize. I got rid of all my chrome and painted it black. I had to dechrome the parts because the primer and paint would not stick to the smooth chrome surfaces.
> 
> Unfortunately, dechroming the fittings would eat away the plastic collar. And if these fittings are like other push connect fittings I worked with, I have no idea how to take the collar off to dechrome the part.
> 
> Im probably going to go with 10mm pipes since those fittings come in plastic and would be much easier to paint.y


Mine (ones pictured) are nickel plated brass... Just need the right primer if you want to paint them.


----------



## voldomazta

I'm kind of confused about this fitting from Koolance that says: "Fitting Single for OD 10mm (3/8in) Soft Copper Pipe". Is this for a 10mm pipe or a 3/8" pipe? They also have one for a 13mm (1/2in). Has anyone ever tried these?

The product numbers for these two start with NZL (nozzle):
NZL-CU10
NZL-CU13

But apparently Koolance also has products that start with ADT (adapter):
ADT-CU10
ADT-CU13

The ADT (adapters) are more interesting since it has a G1/4" female at the other end which can accept a low profile male-male adapter more slimmer than the one found on the NZL which will make the whole thing a bit shorter. And if you bought the ADT-CU13 and a male-male adapter, it's cheaper than the NZL. Are there any cons to doing this?


----------



## Wicked x Josh

So I placed an order on aquatuning for the 10mm push fittings but they say they will be out of stock till at leaste the end of the month. Any other places I can get black 10mm straight fittings?


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> I'm kind of confused about this fitting from Koolance that says: "Fitting Single for OD 10mm (3/8in) Soft Copper Pipe". Is this for a 10mm pipe or a 3/8" pipe? They also have one for a 13mm (1/2in). Has anyone ever tried these?


I have no experience with any of these. But I get the feeling they are good for both 3/8" and 10mm pipes. It's only less than 0.5mm difference between these two.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wicked x Josh*
> 
> So I placed an order on aquatuning for the 10mm push fittings but they say they will be out of stock till at leaste the end of the month. Any other places I can get black 10mm straight fittings?


They have an European site too. But you will have extra shipping to pay for.
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/


----------



## voldomazta

Guys I think you need to check this site out, they sell Camozzi fittings that were on these pages awhile back:

http://www.e22.biz/watercooling.aspx


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wicked x Josh*
> 
> So I placed an order on aquatuning for the 10mm push fittings but they say they will be out of stock till at leaste the end of the month. Any other places I can get black 10mm straight fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> They have an European site too. But you will have extra shipping to pay for.
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/
Click to expand...

It looks like PPC's has started carrying them now









http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997&products_id=33853


----------



## S3ason

What length of tube will be enough? I'm only doing the main compartment for my tj07 (midplate, cpu, 2 x gpu, back down to midplate). The options are 6 ft, 12 ft, and 25 ft. I think 6 feet will be enough assuming I dont mess up. Should I go 12 feet to be safe?

Also, what benders have people had luck with?


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> What length of tube will be enough? I'm only doing the main compartment for my tj07 (midplate, cpu, 2 x gpu, back down to midplate). The options are 6 ft, 12 ft, and 25 ft. I think 6 feet will be enough assuming I dont mess up. Should I go 12 feet to be safe?
> 
> Also, what benders have people had luck with?


Personally out of those options I would go 12 feet. It all depends on your level of skill with tubing bending. I myself am a 1 out of 10 on the skill level as I've only bent maybe three pieces of tubing in my life. If you feel comfortable doing it then you probably don't need any oops feet for when you mess up and would be good with 6 feet.

I could only find 3/8" pipe benders so I bought the cheapest one we sell at my work that's metal since I know I'll be sanding some of the tool to make it 10mm.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> What length of tube will be enough? I'm only doing the main compartment for my tj07 (midplate, cpu, 2 x gpu, back down to midplate). The options are 6 ft, 12 ft, and 25 ft. I think 6 feet will be enough assuming I dont mess up. Should I go 12 feet to be safe?
> 
> Also, what benders have people had luck with?


Always get way more than you think you'll need... main chamber will depend how elaborate you go with it. My main chamber probably only has 3 feet worth in it, but I probably used 10 feet to get that. Once you make a bend there really isn't any going back. The main chunk that took the most for me was chipset->CPU->mosfet because the tollerances we small and I kept derping and getting it 1/4-1/8 of an inch off. That and I tried a few different routes to test the look.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Personally out of those options I would go 12 feet. It all depends on your level of skill with tubing bending. I myself am a 1 out of 10 on the skill level as I've only bent maybe three pieces of tubing in my life. If you feel comfortable doing it then you probably don't need any oops feet for when you mess up and would be good with 6 feet.
> 
> I could only find 3/8" pipe benders so I bought the cheapest one we sell at my work that's metal since I know I'll be sanding some of the tool to make it 10mm.


Assuming those are the ones I initially tried out, you won't be able to do 180* bends really. Assuming your 3/8" bend slot lines up with the main handle.


----------



## S3ason

Is that one of the $15 benders? Should I invest in an Eastman imperial bender instead?


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> Personally out of those options I would go 12 feet. It all depends on your level of skill with tubing bending. I myself am a 1 out of 10 on the skill level as I've only bent maybe three pieces of tubing in my life. If you feel comfortable doing it then you probably don't need any oops feet for when you mess up and would be good with 6 feet.
> 
> I could only find 3/8" pipe benders so I bought the cheapest one we sell at my work that's metal since I know I'll be sanding some of the tool to make it 10mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Assuming those are the ones I initially tried out, you won't be able to do 180* bends really. Assuming your 3/8" bend slot lines up with the main handle.
Click to expand...

I don't see how the handle being placed in line with the 3/8" slot would affect anything. It should still do a 180 bend as long as its not less than 3" or so long. I only plan on doing two short runs in my build with copper so I just couldn't justify paying for a good one.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I don't see how the handle being placed in line with the 3/8" slot would affect anything.


It hits the handle preventing you from bending further.


----------



## Hotluch

Has anyone tried 12mm copper tubing with the camozzi prime 12mm push-in fittings? It says that then new model is interchangable with bspp threads. I would still be interested in the 10mm was just wondering.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I don't see how the handle being placed in line with the 3/8" slot would affect anything. It should still do a 180 bend as long as its not less than 3" or so long. I only plan on doing two short runs in my build with copper so I just couldn't justify paying for a good one.


Looking at the tool, I xan tell it won't make a 180° bend. 90° for sure, maybe 100° or 110° ?
You can always bend a 90° and move an inch over and make a second 90° bend.


----------



## voldomazta

How about this tool, will I be able to do 180° bends with it?


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> How about this tool, will I be able to do 180° bends with it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I just picked one of these up used off of ebay for pretty cheap. 180 degree bends should work fine although I wouldnt recommend them.










Build Log


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> How about this tool, will I be able to do 180° bends with it?


Yeah, that's the one I use.... or almost exactly like it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> I just picked one of these up used off of ebay for pretty cheap. 180 degree bends should work fine although I wouldnt recommend them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build Log


Why wouldn't you recommend it? Worked just fine for me. You just have to make sure you do smooth bends.


----------



## S3ason

I think he's saying he wouldnt recommend 180 degree bends because they're very restrictive.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> I think he's saying he wouldnt recommend 180 degree bends because they're very restrictive.


Except they're not restrictive at all. The bends are very smooth and free flowing.


----------



## S3ason

Bends are just restrictive by nature, even a perfect bend causes restriction. The misconception is that bends cause a lot of restriction and I'm sure that a 180 bend wouldn't even affect your loop, but I think that's what he was trying to say anyway.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> Bends are just restrictive by nature, even a perfect bend causes restriction. The misconception is that bends cause a lot of restriction and I'm sure that a 180 bend wouldn't even affect your loop, but I think that's what he was trying to say anyway.


I really doubt that a 180 bend would be anymore restrictive than a mobo block or CPU block.


----------



## S3ason

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I really doubt that a 180 bend would be anymore restrictive than a mobo block or CPU block.


"I'm sure that a 180 bend wouldn't even affect your loop"


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyhigh2004*
> 
> I really doubt that a 180 bend would be anymore restrictive than a mobo block or CPU block.
> 
> 
> 
> "I'm sure that a 180 bend wouldn't even affect your loop"
Click to expand...

I was agreeing with you lol


----------



## S3ason

Haha alright my bad


----------



## mandrix

Anyone using SS tubing?
I would like to get a parts list together for 1/2" SS tubing/fittings/bender if anyone wants to contribute or suggest part numbers. Not sure if G 1/4 thread / 1/2" tube fittings are available.
Also I was looking at some fittings recently online and it looked as though the threaded part was pretty long, maybe too long for typical water cooling equipment. Anyone run into this with any particular push in type fittings?


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Anyone using SS tubing?
> I would like to get a parts list together for 1/2" SS tubing/fittings/bender if anyone wants to contribute or suggest part numbers. Not sure if G 1/4 thread / 1/2" tube fittings are available.
> Also I was looking at some fittings recently online and it looked as though the threaded part was pretty long, maybe too long for typical water cooling equipment. Anyone run into this with any particular push in type fittings?


I initially tried to do stainless on my build but ended up going to copper because dealing with the stainless was turning into a big pain in the you know what.

Finding the right fittings is a pain in it's own right. I am using industrial fittings in my build, had to lathe the threads down to fit. But even with industrial fittings, the bite wasn't string enough to get a hold of the stainless. I am sure it wouldn't have leaked, but I could pull the stainless out with some effort, which you shouldn't be able to do.

For 1/2" OD you are really going to need to keep an eye on what your ID is. Wall thickness will play a HUGE factor in what bender you pick up. I have several Rigid benders that work well but with 1/2 you won't be able to get that tight of a bend at all. I think for the 1/2" the bender would only get you about a 3" 180 degree bend compared to the 2" or so from the 3/8" bender.

The other thing you have to keep in mind is that copper is a bit more forgiving on bends. If it's slightly off you will be able to correct that by hand a little bit without creasing or bending the material. With stainless, however you bend it on the bender is how it's going to be, you're not going to be fixing it without heat and some torque.

Also, you have to be aware of cost and the amount of tubing you need. The final amount of tubing that ended up in my build is just a fraction of the amount I used in total. Whether it be from mistakes or from all the 1/8"-3" leftover pieces.

It's certainly possible to use stainless, I know if I had more I could have done it. But you just have to more aware of what you are doing and be precise within less than a millimeter in some/most case because there is just no give. Also depends what it is you are doing, some sections would certainly be easier than others. From my experience, it's just not worth it.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> I think he's saying he wouldnt recommend 180 degree bends because they're very restrictive.


Yeah I was just saying I wouldnt recommend a 180 degree bend. Not because of restrictiveness but because of getting everything lined up correctly. Its very unlikely that a 180 bend will put you to where you need to be to get lined up. You will more than likely have to tweak the bend to get it to fit where it needs to be which would cause it to not look perfectly parallel.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Yeah I was just saying I wouldnt recommend a 180 degree bend. Not because of restrictiveness but because of getting everything lined up correctly. Its very unlikely that a 180 bend will put you to where you need to be to get lined up. You will more than likely have to tweak the bend to get it to fit where it needs to be which would cause it to not look perfectly parallel.


That's why you measure and plan?

In all likelihood you'll never have to do a 180* bend straight from the bender, there is going to be some distance between the two bends, but there is certainly nothing wrong with doing one if you have to.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> I initially tried to do stainless on my build but ended up going to copper because dealing with the stainless was turning into a big pain in the you know what.
> 
> Finding the right fittings is a pain in it's own right. I am using industrial fittings in my build, had to lathe the threads down to fit. But even with industrial fittings, the bite wasn't string enough to get a hold of the stainless. I am sure it wouldn't have leaked, but I could pull the stainless out with some effort, which you shouldn't be able to do.
> 
> For 1/2" OD you are really going to need to keep an eye on what your ID is. Wall thickness will play a HUGE factor in what bender you pick up. I have several Rigid benders that work well but with 1/2 you won't be able to get that tight of a bend at all. I think for the 1/2" the bender would only get you about a 3" 180 degree bend compared to the 2" or so from the 3/8" bender.
> 
> The other thing you have to keep in mind is that copper is a bit more forgiving on bends. If it's slightly off you will be able to correct that by hand a little bit without creasing or bending the material. With stainless, however you bend it on the bender is how it's going to be, you're not going to be fixing it without heat and some torque.
> 
> Also, you have to be aware of cost and the amount of tubing you need. The final amount of tubing that ended up in my build is just a fraction of the amount I used in total. Whether it be from mistakes or from all the 1/8"-3" leftover pieces.
> 
> It's certainly possible to use stainless, I know if I had more I could have done it. But you just have to more aware of what you are doing and be precise within less than a millimeter in some/most case because there is just no give. Also depends what it is you are doing, some sections would certainly be easier than others. From my experience, it's just not worth it.


deafboy, thank you very much for your information.
Perhaps I should rethink the 1/2" and go with 3/8".
I used to do a lot of SS tubing for lab equipment a long time ago but it was 1/4", easily bent with the spring benders. Plus I used Swagelock and Parker ferrule type fittings.

Did you find any push fit industrial fittings that did NOT have to have the threads trimmed down? (G 1/4 threads, 3/8" tubing)


----------



## voldomazta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> I initially tried to do stainless on my build but ended up going to copper because dealing with the stainless was turning into a big pain in the you know what.
> 
> Finding the right fittings is a pain in it's own right. I am using industrial fittings in my build, had to lathe the threads down to fit. But even with industrial fittings, the bite wasn't string enough to get a hold of the stainless. I am sure it wouldn't have leaked, but I could pull the stainless out with some effort, which you shouldn't be able to do.
> 
> For 1/2" OD you are really going to need to keep an eye on what your ID is. Wall thickness will play a HUGE factor in what bender you pick up. I have several Rigid benders that work well but with 1/2 you won't be able to get that tight of a bend at all. I think for the 1/2" the bender would only get you about a 3" 180 degree bend compared to the 2" or so from the 3/8" bender.
> 
> The other thing you have to keep in mind is that copper is a bit more forgiving on bends. If it's slightly off you will be able to correct that by hand a little bit without creasing or bending the material. With stainless, however you bend it on the bender is how it's going to be, you're not going to be fixing it without heat and some torque.
> 
> Also, you have to be aware of cost and the amount of tubing you need. The final amount of tubing that ended up in my build is just a fraction of the amount I used in total. Whether it be from mistakes or from all the 1/8"-3" leftover pieces.
> 
> It's certainly possible to use stainless, I know if I had more I could have done it. But you just have to more aware of what you are doing and be precise within less than a millimeter in some/most case because there is just no give. Also depends what it is you are doing, some sections would certainly be easier than others. From my experience, it's just not worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> deafboy, thank you very much for your information.
> Perhaps I should rethink the 1/2" and go with 3/8".
> I used to do a lot of SS tubing for lab equipment a long time ago but it was 1/4", easily bent with the spring benders. Plus I used Swagelock and Parker ferrule type fittings.
> 
> Did you find any push fit industrial fittings that did NOT have to have the threads trimmed down? (G 1/4 threads, 3/8" tubing)
Click to expand...

You can try these.



The threads look pretty much the same vs your regular compression fitting.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> You can try these.
> 
> 
> 
> The threads look pretty much the same vs your regular compression fitting.


Thanks, voldomazta!

Ah, not sure those will work with hard tubing, though.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> You can try these.
> 
> 
> 
> The threads look pretty much the same vs your regular compression fitting.


Yeah, my Parker push lok ones had to be lathed down. Depends on the blocks I suppose. But all of mine were required to be lathed down quite a bit.


----------



## voldomazta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> You can try these.
> 
> 
> 
> The threads look pretty much the same vs your regular compression fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, voldomazta!
> 
> Ah, not sure those will work with hard tubing, though.
Click to expand...

The right one definitely will work with hard tubing. I have it. lol. The compression fitting on the left is just for comparison.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> The right one definitely will work with hard tubing. I have it. lol. The compression fitting on the left is just for comparison.


Wow. Really? I emailed them today and they said it wasn't recommended for hard tubing. Hmmmm.
How long have you used them? Any leakers?


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Wow. Really? I emailed them today and they said it wasn't recommended for hard tubing. Hmmmm.
> How long have you used them? Any leakers?


They are technically designed for compressed air that is generally used with plastic tubing but softer metal tubing works since it can still generate a seal and get a bite on the material. The shouldn't be used with harder metals though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Anyone using SS tubing?
> I would like to get a parts list together for 1/2" SS tubing/fittings/bender if anyone wants to contribute or suggest part numbers. Not sure if G 1/4 thread / 1/2" tube fittings are available.
> Also I was looking at some fittings recently online and it looked as though the threaded part was pretty long, maybe too long for typical water cooling equipment. Anyone run into this with any particular push in type fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> I initially tried to do stainless on my build but ended up going to copper because dealing with the stainless was turning into a big pain in the you know what.
> 
> Finding the right fittings is a pain in it's own right. I am using industrial fittings in my build, had to lathe the threads down to fit. But even with industrial fittings, the bite wasn't string enough to get a hold of the stainless. I am sure it wouldn't have leaked, but I could pull the stainless out with some effort, which you shouldn't be able to do.
> 
> For 1/2" OD you are really going to need to keep an eye on what your ID is. Wall thickness will play a HUGE factor in what bender you pick up. I have several Rigid benders that work well but with 1/2 you won't be able to get that tight of a bend at all. I think for the 1/2" the bender would only get you about a 3" 180 degree bend compared to the 2" or so from the 3/8" bender.
> 
> The other thing you have to keep in mind is that copper is a bit more forgiving on bends. If it's slightly off you will be able to correct that by hand a little bit without creasing or bending the material. With stainless, however you bend it on the bender is how it's going to be, you're not going to be fixing it without heat and some torque.
> 
> Also, you have to be aware of cost and the amount of tubing you need. The final amount of tubing that ended up in my build is just a fraction of the amount I used in total. Whether it be from mistakes or from all the 1/8"-3" leftover pieces.
> 
> It's certainly possible to use stainless, I know if I had more I could have done it. But you just have to more aware of what you are doing and be precise within less than a millimeter in some/most case because there is just no give. Also depends what it is you are doing, some sections would certainly be easier than others. From my experience, it's just not worth it.
Click to expand...

Couldn't of said it better myself,SS tube is not worth the heartache and buffing stainless is a whole new type of misery.
Stick to copper,I can bend tubing any way I want it and even I wouldn't bother with SS.

Also,180 s in tubing is fine,the restrictiveness you all mentioning applies to fittings,look inside the average 90 fitting and you will see the bore size drop alarmingly.


----------



## voldomazta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Wow. Really? I emailed them today and they said it wasn't recommended for hard tubing. Hmmmm.
> How long have you used them? Any leakers?
> 
> 
> 
> They are technically designed for compressed air that is generally used with plastic tubing but softer metal tubing works since it can still generate a seal and get a bite on the material. The shouldn't be used with harder metals though.
Click to expand...

If the bite is the issue then i'm quite sure they can bite on the copper pipe, I even have a nickel plated piece and the fitting bites real hard on it. You cannot pull it off with just your hands for example, without pushing the blue lock of course. As for the flow, I tried running water into it and it seems fine.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Couldn't of said it better myself,SS tube is not worth the heartache and buffing stainless is a whole new type of misery.
> Stick to copper,I can bend tubing any way I want it and even I wouldn't bother with SS.
> 
> Also,180 s in tubing is fine,the restrictiveness you all mentioning applies to fittings,look inside the average 90 fitting and you will see the bore size drop alarmingly.


I am sure you can. Just reread that, so many little errors. lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> If the bite is the issue then i'm quite sure they can bite on the copper pipe, I even have a nickel plated piece and the fitting bites real hard on it. You cannot pull it off with just your hands for example, without pushing the blue lock of course. As for the flow, I tried running water into it and it seems fine.


Yeah, copper is fine. Copper is a softer metal.


----------



## Hotluch

Hey B NEGATIVE, what fittings and tubing size is this?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

They are aquatuning push fit fittings with 10mm chrome plated copper.


----------



## elikim

Can I borrow anyone's pipe bender? I will of course pay shipping both ways. I just don't see the point in investing in a pipe bender if I will be using it once or twice in my life.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> If the bite is the issue then i'm quite sure they can bite on the copper pipe, I even have a nickel plated piece and the fitting bites real hard on it. You cannot pull it off with just your hands for example, without pushing the blue lock of course. As for the flow, I tried running water into it and it seems fine.


That's good to know. As I told you , when I asked them I was told the fittings were made for soft tubing. But I figured for the price I would try them out with copper tubing.
I would really, really love to go with SS, and I bent a lot of it years ago for Lab equipment. But back then I was using mostly Swagelock and some Parker fittings that might not look so great in a pc build.
So, 3/8" copper tubing it will be, and the beauty is it's so easy to find.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> That's good to know. As I told you , when I asked them I was told the fittings were made for soft tubing. But I figured for the price I would try them out with copper tubing.
> I would really, really love to go with SS, and I bent a lot of it years ago for Lab equipment. But back then I was using mostly Swagelock and some Parker fittings that might not look so great in a pc build.
> So, 3/8" copper tubing it will be, and the beauty is it's so easy to find.


Depends on what you get exactly... I have parker fittings in mine and don't think they look bad, haha.


----------



## S3ason

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elikim*
> 
> Can I borrow anyone's pipe bender? I will of course pay shipping both ways. I just don't see the point in investing in a pipe bender if I will be using it once or twice in my life.


The resale value on the nice benders are about 80-90%, so if you buy a $50 bender you'll really only be out $10 when you're done with it. No guarantees of course, but it's worth not getting kinks and creases in your pipe.


----------



## Dyson Poindexter

Has anyone tried just brazing the pipe? What's the worst that could happen?


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyson Poindexter*
> 
> Has anyone tried just brazing the pipe? What's the worst that could happen?


Worse thing that could happen...you catch something near the tubing on fire, catch you off guard and burn your house down maybe more?

lol. In all likelihood just wasting a piece of tubing would be the worse case. You could discolor the metal depending on the heat and metal being used. Depending if you've done it before you could result in a poor quality, uneven bend.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Depends on what you get exactly... I have parker fittings in mine and don't think they look bad, haha.


No, no, yours look fine.
I'm talking about the Swagelock fittings that use a ferrule that gets compressed to the tubing, not push to fit connections.









Just not sure how this type would look compared to the push fit type. Although one thing for sure, when they're on, they're on - they are not going to leak. I've used them with hydrogen, argon, and on vacuum lines and they definitely hold. Hydrogen will get through any teeny tiny opening it can find.


----------



## hammerforged

Im pretty impressed with the look of the Koolance fittings.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> No, no, yours look fine.
> I'm talking about the Swagelock fittings that use a ferrule that gets compressed to the tubing, not push to fit connections.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just not sure how this type would look compared to the push fit type. Although one thing for sure, when they're on, they're on - they are not going to leak. I've used them with hydrogen, argon, and on vacuum lines and they definitely hold. Hydrogen will get through any teeny tiny opening it can find.


Idk.. i think the swagelok and parker compression fitting could look nice but you'd have to cut down the g1/4 thread because I think it is too long. But this is my opinion.


----------



## voldomazta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Im pretty impressed with the look of the Koolance fittings.


I originally wanted that because we only had imperial copper pipes readily available. But the fact that you had to change the olive everytime ticked me off. Push-fit for me. Do you have a picture of it on a block though? Just curious.


----------



## eovnu87435ds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Idk.. i think the swagelok and parker compression fitting could look nice but you'd have to cut down the g1/4 thread because I think it is too long. But this is my opinion.


Be careful if you're thinking of cutting thread. g1/4 thread is tapered, meaning its a smaller diamater at the end and gradually gets wider. If you cut the end off you may be unable to thread it into your blocks!


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> I originally wanted that because we only had imperial copper pipes readily available. But the fact that you had to change the olive everytime ticked me off. Push-fit for me. Do you have a picture of it on a block though? Just curious.


Not yet but soon! Build is going on right now.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eovnu87435ds*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Idk.. i think the swagelok and parker compression fitting could look nice but you'd have to cut down the g1/4 thread because I think it is too long. But this is my opinion.
> 
> 
> 
> Be careful if you're thinking of cutting thread. g1/4 thread is tapered, meaning its a smaller diamater at the end and gradually gets wider. If you cut the end off you may be unable to thread it into your blocks!
Click to expand...

Not true, BSPP is what we use,BSPT is not used on WC gear.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eovnu87435ds*
> 
> Be careful if you're thinking of cutting thread. g1/4 thread is tapered, meaning its a smaller diamater at the end and gradually gets wider. If you cut the end off you may be unable to thread it into your blocks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true, BSPP is what we use,BSPT is not used on WC gear.


BSPP/ G1/4 is straight or parallel and BSPT is tapered. like B Negative said we use BSPP.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> No, no, yours look fine.
> I'm talking about the Swagelock fittings that use a ferrule that gets compressed to the tubing, not push to fit connections.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just not sure how this type would look compared to the push fit type. Although one thing for sure, when they're on, they're on - they are not going to leak. I've used them with hydrogen, argon, and on vacuum lines and they definitely hold. Hydrogen will get through any teeny tiny opening it can find.


Paint them and I think they'd look pretty good. Certainly better than some of the other alternatives out there.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Paint them and I think they'd look pretty good. Certainly better than some of the other alternatives out there.


You may be right. I haven't bought any of those type fittings in years and the company I worked for was paying. Seems I remember them being pretty pricey, though, at least the Swagelock?


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You may be right. I haven't bought any of those type fittings in years and the company I worked for was paying. Seems I remember them being pretty pricey, though, at least the Swagelock?


lol. Nah, they are all pretty pricey.


----------



## mandrix

Well hopefully these fittings from Mettleair will work out.
voldomazta first posted about these. Price is right, 10x for $23 shipped in US.
Soon as the fittings arrive and I get some 3/8" copper tubing I'll test them out. They are sold as air tubing fittings. Have not found a diagram of internals yet but specs posted look promising.
If they don't work, well, I won't be out a ton of money.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Im pretty impressed with the look of the Koolance fittings.


Those are some pretty looking fittings. PPC was out of the phobya fittings so I went with these and some xspc male to male adapters. Saved $3 or so on each fitting.

Also invested in some copper pipe, I mainly like it for the 0 clouding, no plasticizer, and the looks matching with my Aquacomputer blocks. If all goes well I'll do my folding rig in pipe eventually.

Some great work in this thread!


----------



## mandrix

So are those Koolance tubing adapters for 10mm tubing or 3/8"? PPC-s list them for both sizes but I can't see offhand how that would work since 3/8" is 9.525mm? Or is that close enough?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> So are those Koolance tubing adapters for 10mm tubing or 3/8"? PPC-s list them for both sizes but I can't see offhand how that would work since 3/8" is 9.525mm? Or is that close enough?


No,you need the correct tube for the job.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No,you need the correct tube for the job.


Sure, that makes sense. Wish they wouldn't advertise them that way, it's very misleading. Since 3/8" is slightly bigger, I don't see how the ferrule would even fit on the tubing anyway.

On another note I found these plastic fittings on Ebay:
http://www.amazon.com/John-Guest-Copolymer-Fitting-Straight/dp/B002WDO4L4

Looks like the threads are too long, though.
I'm really hoping the mettleair fittings work out, they are taking their sweet time shipping.


----------



## GerBem

Cook guide, thanks


----------



## Krusher33

I don't remember how I came across this guide but I'm intrigued.

But the trouble for me is: I don't know how to go about getting a chrome/silver/polished nickel type look on a budget?

Grainger has some nickel-copper piping on clearance but I guess that might not work?


----------



## S3ason

Plating will cost you around $40, cheaper then buying prepared pipe. Maybe not budget, but the cheapest route I think.


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah I was looking at nearby places. Wondering what their bottom rate would be because I don't think it would cost much to do these? One said their bottom price is $45.


----------



## SIDWULF

Ohhh nice guide, very clean. I approve.


----------



## S3ason

You can also try plating at home. There are a few videos on YouTube and you can get the materials to do it for about 30 dollars off eBay.


----------



## mandrix

The home plating process looks like a royal pain. So does the spray where everything has to be painted glossy black first.
I know it's not optimal, but I'm going to look around for some rattle can stuff and see if I can find anything acceptable. With my rig having copper blocks just polishing might work out good, I don't know.
Has anyone tried a clear coat with either paint or resin with good results, i.e. not dull the finish?

Otherwise I'm thinking just having someone else do the plating is looking better, if I can find anyone around that will do it. There are places online that advertise but I'm thinking by the time you factor in shipping two ways it could pretty expensive?
Still looking around......

Hopefully my fittings will be here today and I can start setting up a "real world" test block to check for leaks. Got an old Rasa around here somewhere.....


----------



## voldomazta

What coolants are you guys planning to use in your copper pipe loops? I'm planning to use a mixture of mayhems dyes. Is there something I need to worry about or the worry will be the same if I was using plastic tubing instead?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> What coolants are you guys planning to use in your copper pipe loops? I'm planning to use a mixture of mayhems dyes. Is there something I need to worry about or the worry will be the same if I was using plastic tubing instead?


Why dyes if you can't see the liquid in the pipes? Is it just for the look of the reservoir?


----------



## voldomazta

Yep, sorry I forgot to mention. Going to be using clear reservoirs and I'm trying to see if dyes are bad for the copper pipes.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> Yep, sorry I forgot to mention. Going to be using clear reservoirs and I'm trying to see if dyes are bad for the copper pipes.


You will be fine with dye,the blocks themselves are copper,why would you think that dye would damage them?


----------



## voldomazta

Good point, I wasn't really thinking clearly.


----------



## mandrix

I did a two hour leak test using these fittings:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101/440_20#post_19288846

Test set up was an old Rasa block with these push fittings installed, copper tubing, with the copper tubing linked to an X20 pump with normal tubing.
Note the cat food snack on the counter. Yes, water cooling has drained my bank but one must push on.










Of course this isn't the most powerful pump, but at least it provided some baseline testing.

End result is no leaks after two hours.

During the testing I would periodically try to rotate the tubing within the fittings to simulate a stress condition, and still no leaks.

At a price of about $16 for 10 fittings this would seem a great deal, provided the fittings hold up in the long run.
Please note these fittings are sold for plastic tubing, and are not sold or recommended for liquids, although use with liquids was not specifically listed to be avoided.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-In-Male-Fittings-3-8-OD-x-1-4-BSPP-G-Thread-10-PC-/260453196642


----------



## voldomazta

Thanks man, I was gonna go and test mine but you did a great job. Shipping from Canada was very slow for these fittings. The rest of mine just arrived. I will be using these MettleAir fittings for my loop although they will be hidden, but they will serve the purpose.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> Thanks man, I was gonna go and test mine but you did a great job. Shipping from Canada was very slow for these fittings. The rest of mine just arrived. I will be using these MettleAir fittings for my loop although they will be hidden, but they will serve the purpose.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I did a two hour leak test using these fittings:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101/440_20#post_19288846
> 
> Test set up was an old Rasa block with these push fittings installed, copper tubing, with the copper tubing linked to an X20 pump with normal tubing.
> Note the cat food snack on the counter. Yes, water cooling has drained my bank but one must push on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course this isn't the most powerful pump, but at least it provided some baseline testing.
> 
> End result is no leaks after two hours.
> 
> During the testing I would periodically try to rotate the tubing within the fittings to simulate a stress condition, and still no leaks.
> 
> At a price of about $16 for 10 fittings this would seem a great deal, provided the fittings hold up in the long run.
> Please note these fittings are sold for plastic tubing, and are not sold or recommended for liquids, although use with liquids was not specifically listed to be avoided.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-In-Male-Fittings-3-8-OD-x-1-4-BSPP-G-Thread-10-PC-/260453196642


You guys are so brave, lol. I fear the long run effects. Who knows how they hold up after 6 months?


----------



## hammerforged

I meant to post this awhile back but I know some people have looked into the Camozzi fittings. I emailed them about using their products with metal tubing and here is the response:
Quote:


> Thanks for your inquiry. I would like first explain a couple of technical detail about our fittings.
> 
> The part # selected P6510 06-04 is a push to connect fitting as you stated. The important factor to be aware of is that these fittings are pneumatic fittings. This means that according to ISO test followed during production and testing, these fittings can have a leak rate of up to 1cc/min.
> That said, it is also true that we sell our fittings in low pressure lube application and even in misting systems, but all these applications are tested and approved by the customer.
> In your case, without knowing exactly where the fittings would be installed we would not to be responsible for any damages that occur to the computer.
> 
> The second technical issue is that the stainless tube would work, but the face of the tube would have to be square, with chamfered edged to prevent cuts or tears in the inner tube o-ring. Also the tube would have to have a score in it, an undercut, so that the teeth on our collet would have a surface to grab on. These collets are usually designed to work on soft plastic (nylon and PU) tubing, by grabbing the softer OD, but with metal tube the surface is too hard. The design just to give you a visual would have to be similar to our models 6800 or 6950. Here is the link to our catalogue:
> http://www.camozzi-usa.com/documents/fittings/fittings/nickel-plated-brass-push-in-fittings.pdf
> 
> I hope the above explanation is clear.
> 
> Let me know if you have any other questions.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> XXXXXXX


So for the sake of just being safe I went with the Koolance fittings. Nice to see your results Mandrix! Glad those are working out.


----------



## mandrix

Well you can't be sure that any of a number of water cooling fittings won't leak. I had a Bitspower rotary leak so who knows?
But I couldn't fault anyone for not using any of the pneumatic fittings.
The problem is that most of the water cooling fittings in general are way overpriced.

Koolance doesn't make any fittings for other than metric tubing , do they?


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Koolance doesn't make any fittings for other than metric tubing , do they?


I am using these:

http://koolance.com/nozzle-single-for-od-13mm-1-2in-soft-copper-pipe

I believe they work for either 13mm or 1/2 OD pipe because the way it compresses the pipe.

Wow the price went way up on these for some reason too.


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah I think a certain somebody has sparked a trend of hard tubing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Yeah I think a certain somebody has sparked a trend of hard tubing.


Aquatuning had sold out of push fit recently too.....


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> I am using these:
> 
> http://koolance.com/nozzle-single-for-od-13mm-1-2in-soft-copper-pipe
> 
> I believe they work for either 13mm or 1/2 OD pipe because the way it compresses the pipe.
> 
> Wow the price went way up on these for some reason too.


OK, so you are actually using 1/2" OD pipe? I want to verify this.
Could be that little bit of difference is taken up by the way the ferrule compresses to the pipe.

Also I put a call into PPC-s about the 3/8" fittings and they are going to check with Koolance to make sure they will work with 3/8"

I'm hoping the fittings I bought will work out, of course, but in the short term I may run the Koolance fittings in the motherboard area until I'm sure the mettleair fittings aren't going to leak on me.

On another note, anyone have any tips for straightening out coiled tubing?
I thought about a little heat but I'm thinking that might anneal/harden the tubing a little which I don't want.......most of my experience with copper tubing is either flared ends or brazed on fittings and straight "nice looking" tubing wasn't really a consideration for my home lp gas lines.


----------



## Krusher33

What I had thought of doing is putting it on the table and between 2 pieces of lumber and then just run my finger while pushing down along the top.

Either that or I'd try a pair of 1x 6's clamped over the piping with a hole just big enough for the pipe lined with fabric and run that along the line (or pull the line through).


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> What I had thought of doing is putting it on the table and between 2 pieces of lumber and then just run my finger while pushing down along the top.
> 
> Either that or I'd try a pair of 1x 6's clamped over the piping with a hole just big enough for the pipe lined with fabric and run that along the line (or pull the line through).


Interesting. I'll do some experimenting. Let me know what works for you.

--
FWIW
Nick at Koolance confirmed the 10mm fittings work with the 3/8" tubing since the ferrule will take up the slack as we surmised.

PPC-s is sold out of the 3/8" fittings minus the male end, but still have the full fittings. My thought was to save a few $$ by using a male-male adapter with them.

I only ordered 2 Koolance fittings to put on the cpu block while I'm testing the push fit ones on other places not so close to the motherboard.


----------



## Krusher33

I don't got the pipings yet. I was just thinking what would I do if I got the soft one vs the hard one.

But really I'm thinking of scraping this idea because I don't want the copper look and I can't afford to get them plated.


----------



## S3ason

What's your budget? I know a place that has 12 feet preplated for about 70


----------



## hammerforged

I actually picked up some type L 1/2 OD copper pipe today from a local place and it actually bends really well with a bender. Much better than the M I had before ( keeping collapsing in on itself). I would say soft is much easier to work with in tight places but the type L comes in straight lengths and looks better









So far the fittings seem to be doing okay. Hopefully the leak test proves it.

I didnt want the copper look either so I painted em black







Don't shoot me please ha.


----------



## Krusher33

Someone else said it before that they're painting theirs silver or something and I'm tempted. I can't seem to think that there's harm with it? (unless you're just really bad at painting)


----------



## S3ason

I'd be worried about getting paint inside the tube and causing some strange reaction, but other than that it should be safe.

Hammer forged, is the L type tubing more expensive?


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> Hammer forged, is the L type tubing more expensive?


Yeah. I picked up 20ft today for $33 I think the type M was around $24. The thing with soft copper is that it is usually sold in larger rolls. The smallest around here was 50 ft.


----------



## S3ason

20 feet is straight lengths? That's sound like a good deal to me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> I'd be worried about getting paint inside the tube and causing some strange reaction, but other than that it should be safe.
> 
> Hammer forged, is the L type tubing more expensive?


Im painting a loop for RSurvivo2,should be ok,just tape the ends up.


----------



## mandrix

Would be nice to find some straight 3/8" copper pipe. All I've seen is 1/2" and up hard copper around here locally.
I initially bought a 10 foot coil of 3/8". I cut it in half and worked at straightening it out today.


----------



## S3ason

How straight were you able to get it? I heard rolling it on the floor works pretty well.


----------



## hammerforged

Here are some pictures from my build log:




The type L is pretty tough to use in tight situations as you can tell by looking at the short piece from the rad to cpu. I may try to redo it if I have some left over pipe. If you all see a better routing method let me know. Also from the rad to the pump could have one less bend.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> How straight were you able to get it? I heard rolling it on the floor works pretty well.


I did it by hand. Not perfect, but not outrageously bad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Here are some pictures from my build log:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The type L is pretty tough to use in tight situations as you can tell by looking at the short piece from the rad to cpu. I may try to redo it if I have some left over pipe. If you all see a better routing method let me know. Also from the rad to the pump could have one less bend.


From the radiator to the pump could you make a long sweeping bend? Might be hard with the stiff pipe, though. Might try one 90 and have it level off at the same height as the pump, or would your rear fan interfere?
Doesn't look bad, though, to me.


----------



## mandrix

I was looking through Home Depot online, and came across some 3/8" chrome plated copper pipe. It's a supply line, so it's only 20" long.
Next time I get over that way I'll take a look, but if anyone is interested here is the link in the online store:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-203082395/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=3%2F8+copper+tubing&storeId=10051#specifications


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I was looking through Home Depot online, and came across some 3/8" chrome plated copper pipe. It's a supply line, so it's only 20" long.
> Next time I get over that way I'll take a look, but if anyone is interested here is the link in the online store:
> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-203082395/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=3%2F8+copper+tubing&storeId=10051#specifications


3/8" That would work with the 10mm fittings right?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> 3/8" That would work with the 10mm fittings right?


It should work with the 10mm Koolance fittings that have a ferrule.

BTW Home Depot carries the same thing in 1/2" OD as well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I was looking through Home Depot online, and came across some 3/8" chrome plated copper pipe. It's a supply line, so it's only 20" long.
> Next time I get over that way I'll take a look, but if anyone is interested here is the link in the online store:
> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-203082395/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=3%2F8+copper+tubing&storeId=10051#specifications
> 
> 
> 
> 3/8" That would work with the 10mm fittings right?
Click to expand...

Dont count on it.

Use the correct tube for the job.


----------



## gdesmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Would be nice to find some straight 3/8" copper pipe. All I've seen is 1/2" and up hard copper around here locally.
> I initially bought a 10 foot coil of 3/8". I cut it in half and worked at straightening it out today.


Try a refrigeration supplier they most likely have what you need, it may be a hardened version so if you need to bend it heat it up with a torch until it turns a dark blue-purple color. Process is called annealing and softens the copper so it does not kink as easily. Hope you find what you need and take your time bending.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dont count on it.
> 
> Use the correct tube for the job.


I hear what you're saying, but I think the ferrule fittings will work.
According to Nick at Koolance the 10mm fittings with the ferrule work with 3/8" OD tubing. When the ferrule is compressed it will take out the minor difference in OD between 10mm - 3/8".
That's actually the beauty of the ferrule fittings.

With push fit I agree with you 100%.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdesmo*
> 
> Try a refrigeration supplier they most likely have what you need, it may be a hardened version so if you need to bend it heat it up with a torch until it turns a dark blue-purple color. Process is called annealing and softens the copper so it does not kink as easily. Hope you find what you need and take your time bending.


Thanks to an OCN member I found some 3/8" Type L online but the shipping costs are prohibitively expensive. As far as locally, outside of big box stores like Lowes and Home Depot there's not much else I'm aware of.

When I get a chance to get to Home Depot (about 40 miles from me) I'm going to look at the chromed pieces I linked earlier. This will mean the push fittings I bought are unlikely to work, but the Koolance ones should. I guess in the US we are not as into chromed bathroom pipes as much as the UK, as most of what I see online for chromed tubing is over there, or in China which requires ordering 100's of pounds.
The 25" chromed supply lines are about $4.50 a piece. If they work and if I don't screw too much of it up I figure 3 pieces will be plenty for me, leaving me to order a bunch more expensive Koolance fittings.


----------



## hammerforged

I think B was assuming he was talking about the push-fit fittings.

Those you really need to use the exact spec for because they have very tight tolerances from looking at the way they are made.

The one thing I will say about the ferrule with this type L copper pipe is that you really have to crank on the fitting to get them water tight. It has a harder time compressing the ticker walled tube.


----------



## mandrix

Here is that chromed faucet tubing from Home Depot. Not exactly triple chromed, and when I get time I'll see how they hold up when bent. These have a fitting on one end, and the usable tubing amounts to 19". Very thin walled.


----------



## hammerforged

Very nice! Since its so thin walled I might suggest filling the pipe with salt or sand before bending. The thin walled copper I tried just caved in on itself. The salt helps prevent this from happening. They also make a bending spring that you can insert into the tube that has the same effect.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If its thin wall on a coil then you need to bend it with a spring,these have a max set bend radius to prevent kinks,use half-hard tube for benders.

I personally wouldn't recommend salt/sand/sugar etc.


----------



## Krusher33

Sand/salt/sugar is NOT a good idea imo.

And B, these aren't coiled. He's talking about this: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-203082395/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=3%2F8+copper+tubing&storeId=10051#specifications


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I use something similar,should be fine with a bender.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I use something similar,should be fine with a bender.


I'm glad you verified that, I thought you mentioned before that was the type of tubing you were using.

I had to go through about 20 pieces to find 4 that weren't bent all up. I was surprised to see this as I would assume most people would want nice, straight pipe in their bathrooms if they were going to use chromed pipe for water supply.
Home Depot actually had the same pieces with two different end joints, I just picked the cheaper ones which were $3.51 each, the tubing itself was identical.
Now got to see if I can actually bend this stuff when I figure out where I want to start with my 2 fittings. If it works out I'll order more Koolance fittings and forget about the push fit as I'm not at all sure they would work with the hard surface pipe.


----------



## Krusher33

I await your results!


----------



## Krusher33

What's the cheapest fittings anyone has found for this?


----------



## mandrix

What size tubing?

The absolute cheapest I found was the Mettleair push fits for 3/8" tubing. Though not fully tested for water cooling, they seem to work with soft copper tubing.
x10 for $16.


----------



## Krusher33

I tried to look for those on my own and couldn't find them? I'm looking for 12.

And I was thinking the toilet line that you found.

I'm having a hard time understand what would work and what wouldn't. So far I understand that they need the brass ferule for soft copper? The crystal links will work for only 12mm pipes? Otherwise all the compression fittings will only work on tubes?


----------



## PepeLapiu

You are in the USA so you can easily get 10mm pipes of your choice from.McMaster.com
I should be so lucky since they won't ship to Canada.
Knce you have the 10mm pipes of your chouce, you can get 10mm push-fit fittings from aquatuning. Those fittings are cheap. And they will make it a lot easier to build/tear down your loop. Me, I just dont like the look of those Koolance fittings and I don't like that they are one time use, but that's me.

Btw, I base alk this on what I read so far, I have yet to build a metal loop.


----------



## voldomazta

Hey PepeLapiu, I got my 10mm straight pipes from coppertubingsales.com and I'm from the Philippines. They shipped the pipes through my proxy address and my courier delivered it to me. Maybe you can have them delivered directly to you via UPS. You should go and ask them.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> Hey PepeLapiu, I got my 10mm straight pipes from coppertubingsales.com and I'm from the Philippines. They shipped the pipes through my proxy address and my courier delivered it to me. Maybe you can have them delivered directly to you via UPS. You should go and ask them.


Thanx!
I could not find any straight pipes, only coiled ones in the 10mm flavor, when searching their site. But I shoot them and email to see it they have it.

Thanx a lot +rep


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> You are in the USA so you can easily get 10mm pipes of your choice from.McMaster.com
> I should be so lucky since they won't ship to Canada.
> Knce you have the 10mm pipes of your chouce, you can get 10mm push-fit fittings from aquatuning. Those fittings are cheap. And they will make it a lot easier to build/tear down your loop. Me, I just dont like the look of those Koolance fittings and I don't like that they are one time use, but that's me.
> 
> Btw, I base alk this on what I read so far, I have yet to build a metal loop.


I just did a quick check and the postage is $19 for 12 fittings from Aquatuning.

McMaster and Grainger only has the copper pipes for good prices. The chromed ones are stupidly expensive. Mandrix found some chromed covered copper pipes at Home Depot for just $7 per 20 inches. Today I found some Faucet Supply Line which are Chromed covered copper pipes as well for $8 per 30 inches. They come in 1/2" and 3/8" flavors.

I am not going the Koolance route for fittings. I will need 12 fittings and that's $120. There's no way I can afford that.

BTW if you're doing 10mm pipes, you may as well just get the Bitspower multilink adapters which are just $11 a pair at Performance-PCs.com. I think that comes out a few dollars cheaper after shipping costs? Nevermind, BP multilink are for 12mm pipes.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> You are in the USA so you can easily get 10mm pipes of your choice from.McMaster.com
> I should be so lucky since they won't ship to Canada.
> Knce you have the 10mm pipes of your chouce, you can get 10mm push-fit fittings from aquatuning. Those fittings are cheap. And they will make it a lot easier to build/tear down your loop. Me, I just dont like the look of those Koolance fittings and I don't like that they are one time use, but that's me.
> 
> Btw, I base alk this on what I read so far, I have yet to build a metal loop.


The Koolance fittings aren't a one time use.
The ferrules are. You can buy the ferrules at a hardware store.


----------



## mandrix

Wasn't too bad. One 52* bend and one 90. Bend radius for the 90 was 1-1/4".
Had to really crank down on the fittings. No kinks, though.


----------



## goldry

Does anybody know, where I can buy tubes and fittings in Canada?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Wasn't too bad. One 52* bend and one 90. Bend radius for the 90 was 1-1/4".
> Had to really crank down on the fittings. No kinks, though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sick! thats very nice


----------



## hammerforged

Yeah nice job Mandrix! That adds to the list a of pipe options!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Sick! thats very nice


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Yeah nice job Mandrix! That adds to the list a of pipe options!


Thanks, guys. Got a long way to go, though!

As Krusher33 pointed out, the 3/8" chromed faucet tubing is readily available at Lowes as well as Home Depot.
It works out to around $2.00 or so per foot, but at least it's very easy to find. Also for those using the Koolance fittings, Lowes carries the 3/8" pipe ferrule replacements, $1.76 x3, so no need to order those online as those _should_ work.
Also brass and SS faucet tubing is available.


----------



## voldomazta

I just want to share. 3/8" OD MettleAir push fittings from eBay and Phobya 10mm plugs that are available on PPCS. I think the Phobya looks sexier. I'm also having some PF10.2's arriving from http://e22.biz, will have to see which one is the sexiest!


----------



## Krusher33

Unless there's blue in the build itself, the blue is a bit of a turn off for me.

Which Phobya fittings are those exactly? I can't seem to find it... all I see are quick releases and compression fittings.


----------



## voldomazta

I agree, the blue lock is a real turn-off.

Here are the Phobya plugs:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1200&products_id=33853

They were under "misc fittings" category


----------



## Krusher33

I looked there and went right over them I think. Thanks!

Actually it's under Barb Fittings.


----------



## PepeLapiu

I would have thought that anyone willing to do a hard tubing build would not hesitate to paint that blue collar. But yeah, without painting it, it might look out of place.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Doable posts


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Those Phobya fittings are the Aquatuning fittings i have been using for all my builds,very good fitting indeed. I recommend!


----------



## voldomazta

I knew it! Would've been awesome if they stocked on the black nickel version though.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those Phobya fittings are the Aquatuning fittings i have been using for all my builds,very good fitting indeed. I recommend!


Wait... so Phobya is Aquatuning?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those Phobya fittings are the Aquatuning fittings i have been using for all my builds,very good fitting indeed. I recommend!
> 
> 
> 
> Wait... so Phobya is Aquatuning?
Click to expand...

Alphacool and Phobya are owned by Aquatuning,did you not know this?


----------



## Spite

Great thread B-Negative, appreciate it!

If anyone is interested, I found those Phobya fittings (nickel version) on Aquatuning UK - http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p5346_10mm-G1-4-Plug----nickel-plated.html


----------



## Krusher33

Of course not. I'm pretty new to water cooling. I've only done barbs so far and didn't care which ones.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Of course not. I'm pretty new to water cooling. I've only done barbs so far and didn't care which ones.


Ah. Yeah,they are all the same firm.


----------



## voldomazta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those Phobya fittings are the Aquatuning fittings i have been using for all my builds,very good fitting indeed. I recommend!
> 
> 
> 
> Wait... so Phobya is Aquatuning?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Alphacool and Phobya are owned by Aquatuning,did you not know this?
Click to expand...

I didn't know this either. Now I do!


----------



## kgtuning

Learn something new everyday here... good info.


----------



## PepeLapiu

I didn't know that either. However it makes sense since they all appear to be German products.

Goin' to be a little less dumb every night.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> I just want to share. 3/8" OD MettleAir push fittings from eBay and Phobya 10mm plugs that are available on PPCS. I think the Phobya looks sexier. I'm also having some PF10.2's arriving from http://e22.biz, will have to see which one is the sexiest!


Wait a minute....those Phobya fittings work with 3/8" tubing??


----------



## mandrix

PPC-s only has one of the Phobya fittings left in stock, BTW. If those would work with 3/8" they are waaaay cheaper than the Koolance.

I've been testing the Mettleair push fittings with the chromed 3/8" copper pipe. Been running an hour and not a drop. I've wiggled, twisted and turned and still no leak yet.
Running the old X20 pump with a push fitting and and a piece of the chromed copper into some flex tubing and right back to the pump so I can get max flow. Hmm. Maybe it would be better to put some restriction on it.


----------



## S3ason

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Wait a minute....those Phobya fittings work with 3/8" tubing??


I dont think so, he has two different tubes in the picture.

Bought some of the homedepot tube yesterday. I also bought their bender since I had a gift card. My advice: skip on both of these. The Home depot chrome plating is very shallow and bubbles in the bends. Its also really thick so it is easy to kink with the bender they sell. It would probably be fine with a better bender, but just thought id let anyone looking to go that route know.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> I dont think so, he has two different tubes in the picture.
> 
> Bought some of the homedepot tube yesterday. I also bought their bender since I had a gift card. My advice: skip on both of these. The Home depot chrome plating is very shallow and bubbles in the bends. Its also really thick so it is easy to kink with the bender they sell. It would probably be fine with a better bender, but just thought id let anyone looking to go that route know.


I disagree. No way the tubing I bought is thick at all. Also bends really easy for me with the little bender I bought at Lowes. There is a little crazing of the chrome in the extreme bends, but not enough to concern me. Lowes sells some high dollar stuff that probably has better plating, but the prices are way too much to make it worthwhile.

Since he has that Phobya fitting with copper tubing, I'm guessing that's 3/8". Guess we'll have to wait until he tells us though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If its 3/8,it wont be watertight....


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If its 3/8,it wont be watertight....


If it doesn't leak, it's watertight. If it does leak, then, not good!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If its 3/8,it wont be watertight....
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't leak, it's watertight. If it does leak, then, not good!
Click to expand...

Its already been demonstrated earlier in the thread,3/8" is not watertight with 10mm pushfits


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah i think I remember that too. Which is why i didn't get any.

By the way what's the difference between 3/8" and 1/2" in terms of Water Cooling? Like is there more pressure with one or other? Does it affect cooling ability? Is one or other harder on the pump? Things like that...


----------



## PepeLapiu

3/8" is around 9.5mm so it's almost identical to 10mm. You will not see a difference in performance. In fact, anything at or above 3/8" will perform pretty much the same. I would personally go with 1/2" tubing if I had lots of tubing and an external rad.

Edit: sorry, I was comparing 3/8" versus 10mm while you were asking about 3/8" versus 1/2".
Still, for internal loop, the tubing size won't matter enough to make a difference. But of course, the bigger tubes will be less restrictive.


----------



## S3ason

The more I look at the 3/8" tube I bought, the more I think its too small, especially in the bends. I think I'll be moving to 1/2".


----------



## SavellM

Question, how do you do your prep with copper pipes?!

Like with rubber you could do it in a sink or something and its easy.
But with Copper, well you cant really move it around too easily.

Do you build it in and do a clean and flush from the case itself?!
Also how would you prepare a loop using copper pipes?


----------



## Hagelund

A question for OP, where did you buy the copper pipes? Having a hard time finding a place in EU.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its already been demonstrated earlier in the thread,3/8" is not watertight with 10mm pushfits


Like I said, if it doesn't leak, it's watertight. If it does, then it's no good. No one is disagreeing here, I think. I just wanted to know what size tubing the guy was using in the pic.
I would not think it would work, but there is a lot of unexplored territory here with different manufacturers and possibly different tolerances/materials in the o ring area. I have yet to see a comprehensive list of push fittings tried with 3/8" tubing. Have you?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> The more I look at the 3/8" tube I bought, the more I think its too small, especially in the bends. I think I'll be moving to 1/2".


Not understanding what you mean. If it's bent properly, the diameter of the pipe isn't changing in the bends.
I thought about 1/2" too, but decided for me the bend radius would be too large for what I will need to do. If you really think you need a lot of flow, or if 1/2" just looks better for you, then go for it.
In the end whatever works best for you.

On another note, I was looking at the Mettleair fittings last night and noticed there is a provision for tightening internally with a hex , or allen wrench as we call them in US.


----------



## voldomazta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> I just want to share. 3/8" OD MettleAir push fittings from eBay and Phobya 10mm plugs that are available on PPCS. I think the Phobya looks sexier. I'm also having some PF10.2's arriving from http://e22.biz, will have to see which one is the sexiest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a minute....those Phobya fittings work with 3/8" tubing??
Click to expand...

The copper one is 10mm OD and the chrome one is 3/8" OD. I was playing around with sizes to experience them for myself. One thing I noticed t hough after I had the 3/8" pipe plated the MettleAir fitting is having a hard time bite into it. It's now easier to pull it off even without pushing the blue lock compared to when it was just a bare copper pipe.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its already been demonstrated earlier in the thread,3/8" is not watertight with 10mm pushfits
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, if it doesn't leak, it's watertight. If it does, then it's no good. No one is disagreeing here, I think. I just wanted to know what size tubing the guy was using in the pic.
> I would not think it would work, *but there is a lot of unexplored territory here with different manufacturers and possibly different tolerances/materials in the o ring area. I have yet to see a comprehensive list of push fittings tried with 3/8" tubing. Have you?*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> The more I look at the 3/8" tube I bought, the more I think its too small, especially in the bends. I think I'll be moving to 1/2".
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not understanding what you mean. If it's bent properly, the diameter of the pipe isn't changing in the bends.
> I thought about 1/2" too, but decided for me the bend radius would be too large for what I will need to do. If you really think you need a lot of flow, or if 1/2" just looks better for you, then go for it.
> In the end whatever works best for you.
> 
> On another note, I was looking at the Mettleair fittings last night and noticed there is a provision for tightening internally with a hex , or allen wrench as we call them in US.
Click to expand...

There is no unexplored area,push fit requires the correct pipe to be used,if 3/8 worked with 10mm pushfit they would market it as such.
Would you use 11/13 tube with 10/16 compressions? No,you wouldnt.

The tolerances are exacting with this type of fitting,many years as a plumber has taught me this.

By all means test what im saying but the result is a foregone conclusion.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> The copper one is 10mm OD and the chrome one is 3/8" OD. I was playing around with sizes to experience them for myself. One thing I noticed t hough after I had the 3/8" pipe plated the MettleAir fitting is having a hard time bite into it. It's now easier to pull it off even without pushing the blue lock compared to when it was just a bare copper pipe.


OK. I'm not having that problem with the chromed copper. I did the same as I did before with the soft copper pipe, pushing/pulling/twisting to try and make it leak. I guess it just shows the limitations of those fittings. For whatever reason the fittings are getting a better bite on this particular tubing I have. I have some speculation on why that is, but I can't state for sure.
But after all, the fittings are marketed for soft tubing so we were bound to hit the limit sometime.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Im not familiar with metal tubes in push/fit fittings. But I do work with rigid plastic pipes and 200psi air in push/fit fittings every day.
My guess is that plating a pipe will make it slightly thicker and increase it's diameter. Maybe to the point where a 3/8" (9.5mm) pipe become a 10mm OD. I just don't know. Also, plating it should make it smoother and harder to grab on for the fitting.

I know when a plastic tube refuses to latch on, we give it a very light sanding, very very light. And that usually suffices to provide a good grip and seal, so long as you dont sand it to the point of reducing the OD, but enough to make it just a little less slippery.

But hey, maybe my experience does not translate to metal pipes, I'm just saying, I'm not saying.


----------



## voldomazta

Okay crazy idea, how about covering the edge of the pipe with some tape or the like before having it plated, this way, after the plating that area which gets inserted into the fittings is still bare copper? Would something like that work?


----------



## S3ason

Plating shouldn't affect the diameter significantly. The maker of omega desk had his pipes played and had no issues.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> Plating shouldn't affect the diameter significantly. The maker of omega desk had his pipes played and had no issues.


Yep. I doubt the plating is more than a few microns thick anyway.
But these particular fittings - Mettleair - are made for pneumatic applications and are sort of an unknown. All my testing has proved out but I've yet to actually put any in a loop. Mine seem to get a good bite on the chromed tubing, but for whatever reason they are not on his nickel plated tubing.
I don't consider them an ideal solution, just a cheap one. I'll be trying them out in parts of the loop less likely to destroy something if they leak, and rely on the Koolance fittings in more sensitive areas for now at least. I've got plenty of real estate to spread things out...


----------



## Krusher33

I found another brand of fittings called Swagelok earlier. They had every size and configurations you could want. The ones I was looking for (1/2" tube, 1/4 thread), were about $6.58 or something like that. Ebay has lots of listings for many different fittings but very few of what I was looking for.


----------



## hammerforged

Bent up some more pipe for my build. Its all starting to come together!


----------



## Krusher33

Looking good!


----------



## mandrix

Something that didn't dawn on me about the Koolance fittings until I had to disassemble some hard pipe yesterday.
Since the fittings swivel, you can just unscrew them from a block without disturbing the ferrule. So for anyone worried about having to remove/replace the ferrule every time you want to disassemble the tubing, as long as you can unthread the lower portion from the block or whatever it's threaded into you don't need to disturb the ferrule at all.
Some thin pliers with tape or other suitable padding will keep the fitting from being scratched. I've thought about gluing split pieces of leftover soft tubing to my pliers to add some padding, as tape doesn't hold up very well.

So, maybe not as quick and elegant as push fittings, but for those wanting to use 3/8" or 1/2" pipe/tubing instead of metric, the Koolance fittings work out pretty good and look fairly decent, IMO.

Also I'm happy to report that the little bender I got from Lowes is working out well with the 3/8" chromed copper tubing.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Something that didn't dawn on me about the Koolance fittings until I had to disassemble some hard pipe yesterday.
> Since the fittings swivel, you can just unscrew them from a block without disturbing the ferrule. So for anyone worried about having to remove/replace the ferrule every time you want to disassemble the tubing, as long as you can unthread the lower portion from the block or whatever it's threaded into you don't need to disturb the ferrule at all.
> Some thin pliers with tape or other suitable padding will keep the fitting from being scratched. I've thought about gluing split pieces of leftover soft tubing to my pliers to add some padding, as tape doesn't hold up very well.
> 
> So, maybe not as quick and elegant as push fittings, but for those wanting to use 3/8" or 1/2" pipe/tubing instead of metric, the Koolance fittings work out pretty good and look fairly decent, IMO.
> 
> Also I'm happy to report that the little bender I got from Lowes is working out well with the 3/8" chromed copper tubing.










Great info.


----------



## Krusher33

I feel like ditching this plan again.









Either I can get the 3/8" or 1/2" pipes for cheap, but the fittings are either too expensive for me or requires lathing the threads because they're too long.

Or I can get the 10mm fittings for cheap but then the 10mm copper pipes are stupidly expensive. I mean really... $50 for a meter worth? Ugh...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I feel like ditching this plan again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either I can get the 3/8" or 1/2" pipes for cheap, but the fittings are either too expensive for me or requires lathing the threads because they're too long.
> 
> Or I can get the 10mm fittings for cheap but then the 10mm copper pipes are stupidly expensive. I mean really... $50 for a meter worth? Ugh...


The US gets stiffed on metric tube....

Did you check the pipe list on the first post?


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I feel like ditching this plan again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Either I can get the 3/8" or 1/2" pipes for cheap, but the fittings are either too expensive for me or requires lathing the threads because they're too long.
> 
> Or I can get the 10mm fittings for cheap but then the 10mm copper pipes are stupidly expensive. I mean really... $50 for a meter worth? Ugh...


Someone else here told me to check out CopperTubingSales.com
It's not on their web store so you have to place the order by phone. They sell the 5 meter pipes for around 50$. So I bought two.

You might have to fight with them a bit. They wanted to send me full lenghts or cut in two. But even cut in two, that's still 8 ft long, or a little over that. Just imagine the UPS charges for an 8 ft long package ...LOL

Talk to Aaron, he is the one who finally let me order it in 4 ft lenghts. I get the feeling these guys usually deal with orders much bigger than what we buy.

And B Neg, you should add CopperTubingSales.com to the first post. McMaster only ships to the USA and they are stupid expensive.

Cheers


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Did you check the pipe list on the first post?


Yeah... McMaster's is $20 per 1 meter + shipping.
The links in OP for onlinemetals and electrontubes are actually 3/8" OD tubes. I don't know why they say (10mm) behind that. I don't think I can trust them? Considering they don't know that 3/8" =/= 10mm...

All the listings 10mm copper tubing on ebay are coming from UK. Which I think shipping would be expensive?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Someone else here told me to check out CopperTubingSales.com
> It's not on their web store so you have yo make the order by phone. They sell the 5 meter pipes for around 50$. So I bought two.
> 
> You might have to fight with them a bit. They wanted to send me full lenghts or cut in two. But even cut in two, that's still 8 ft long, or a little over that. Just image the UPS charges for an 8 ft long package ...LOL
> 
> Talk to Aaron, he is the one who finally let me order it in 4 ft lenghts. I get the feeling these guys usually dealcwith orders much bigger than what we buy.
> 
> And B Neg, you should add CopperTubingSales.com to the first post. McMaster only ships tobthe USA and the are stupid expensive.
> 
> Cheers


Pretty sure I only need like 6 ft worth. 8 ft for safety net. They won't deal by email? I have a hard enough time making ANY phone calls at work.


----------



## skyhigh2004

I finally got around to ordering and now have received my 10mm tubing from McMaster Carr. It ended up being $68 for 3 meters which I didn't think was that bad. Now I just hope my cheap bender is up to the task lol. Hopefully will have a few test bends going by this weekend.


----------



## mandrix

What I like about the 3/8" & 1/2" tubing is the availability in the US. Anytime I need some I can hop down to Lowes or Home Depot and pick some up. The chromed tubing is more expensive since we're talking about specialty or plumbing uses, and most I've found is only around 20-30" in length, but if one goes with plain copper Lowes sells the 3/8" x 10' coils cheap enough.

So with these sizes either you pay around $10 each for Koolance fittings or get the industrial push fittings which I believe require turning down the threads to an acceptable length on a lathe.

I like the idea of push fits, but I don't see the industrial fittings for 3/8" & 1/2" tubing looking as good as the ones offered for metric tubing from vendors like Aquatuning, etc, who have some really nice looking fittings. IMO.
But then as B NEG says we get rooked on metric tubing prices here in the States.

So it gets down to prices and preferences, as with anything water cooling.


----------



## kpforce1

Here are some pics of my fittings







Hope to get some test bends done with the annealed Cu this week/weekend. (sorry for the crappy pics from the cell)


----------



## Nomad692000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Here are some pics of my fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope to get some test bends done with the annealed Cu this week/weekend. (sorry for the crappy pics from the cell)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Sweet


----------



## IntelFanaTEK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have been asked a few times now how i bent my pipe for my SR 2 build,so i decided to do a little walk thru.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IntelFanaTEK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have been asked a few times now how i bent my pipe for my SR 2 build,so i decided to do a little walk thru.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanna see the finished rig?
Click to expand...


----------



## Krusher33

Very beastly.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wanna see the finished rig?


Oh quit flaunting you finished SR-2







Ha ha. One day I hope to FINALLY finish mine.... one inch at a time


----------



## PepeLapiu

Ha! I just received my invoice from CopperTubingSales.com
It cost me 80$ plus shipping for 10 meters, or only 8$ per meter for 10mm OD, 1mm wall straight tubes. That is about 2.50$ per foot, cheaper than some plastic tubing
Eat my shorts McMaster.com


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Ha! I just received my invoice from CopperTubingSales.com
> It cost me 80$ plus shipping for 10 meters, or only 8$ per meter for 10mm OD, 1mm wall straight tubes. That is about 2.50$ per foot, cheaper than some plastic tubing
> Eat my shorts McMaster.com


That's a good deal other than shipping will be fairly high for 30+ ft of copper. I was gonna go the coppertubingsales.com route but McMaster was only $5.80 for shipping my 3 meters bringing the total to $68 since their warehouse is only 300 miles away. I just didn't want to pay $40+ more for a ton of copper that would never get used again after this build lol.

Good to know there are options out there for Canadian watercoolers using 10mm push fits


----------



## PepeLapiu

Shipping was only 25$ for me. I made them cut it in 4 ft pieces to save on shipping.
They only use UPS which is bad. UPS will tack on an other 30-40$ at delivery for "brokerage fees'. Nobody else charges that, not regular mail, and not FexEx, or Purolator. I usually boycott UPS but this time I didn't have a choice.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Shipping was only 25$ for me. I made them cut it in 4 ft pieces to save on shipping.
> They only use UPS which is bad. UPS will tack on an other 30-40$ at delivery for "brokerage fees'. Nobody else charges that, not regular mail, and not FexEx, or Purolator. I usually boycott UPS but this time I didn't have a choice.


That's not bad at all. I here you there, I hate UPS with the fire of a thousand suns. They left my last tablet and GPU in the unlocked entryway of my apartment building because the driver was to lazy to walk to the other building and leave it in the office. Thank god they were still there since our entry way is recorded and the two packages required signatures. I called UPS and reported him, to bad he still works there and probably kicks all my packages now


----------



## S3ason

I will never understand why businesses refuse to use anything but UPS. USPS has far superior pricing and ease of use. *shrug*


----------



## PepeLapiu

Okay, looking for ideas and suggestions here while I wait for my pipes.

I want the bare copper look. So I thought I would paint my pipes with a metalic copper paint. But the results are poor so far. So what if I just polush the pipes and coat them with something? Maybe some sort of clear coat or something to that effect?

Thing is, the pipes will be polished smooth and I don't know what would stick.to such a smooth surface. Any ideas? Or I could just tear it down and repolish it from time to time but I don't really want to do that.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Okay, looking for ideas and suggestions here while I wait for my pipes.
> 
> I want the bare copper look. So I thought I would paint my pipes with a metalic copper paint. But the results are poor so far. So what if I just polish the pipes and coat them with something? Maybe some sort of clear coat or something to that effect?
> 
> Thing is, the pipes will be polished smooth and I don't know what would stick.to such a smooth surface. Any ideas? Or I could just tear it down and repolish it from time to time but I don't really want to do that.


There's such a thing as copper/brass sealant. Once it's polished, you just apply the stuff and it should hold shiny for ages.

I did that for my moonshine still a year or so ago, and it's still shiny.



edit: another term for it that some use is brass lacquer. I dunno if it's a colloquial term, but it's used sometimes here in the Deep South


----------



## PepeLapiu

Thanx, can you please get the brand name for it?


----------



## IntelFanaTEK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wanna see the finished rig?


WOOOOOWWWW!!! I'm sure you listed it already but it got lost in the details, what case is that?

Little Devil V8....just bought one!


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Thanx, can you please get the brand name for it?


I used good old fashioned brass-o for polishing, a microfiber towel for making sure the surface was prepped for lacquer, and Behlen copper protectant, if I recall correctly.

Be warned though: the more durable the lacquer (as in, the longer you can go without having to re-polish and re-lacquer), the less shiny your copper will be. Nothing will look as good as a freshly shined copper pipe.

This picture is before the lacquer. You can tell the difference pretty clearly--even _with_ my crappy phone pic.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Can someone post the model number for the Bitspower SLI/Crossfire links that people seem to be using?

Many thanks to those who can answer.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Can someone post the model number for the Bitspower SLI/Crossfire links that people seem to be using?
> 
> Many thanks to those who can answer.


c47 fitting.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Bneg, your the man! This is for 12mm tubing, correct?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Bneg, your the man! This is for 12mm tubing, correct?


Yes.

Make sure your tube is 12mm rather than the imperial measurement or it wont be watertight


----------



## Krusher33

For whatever reason, whenever "imperial" is mentioned... I think Darth Vader for some reason. I don't know why.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> For whatever reason, whenever "imperial" is mentioned... I think Darth Vader for some reason. I don't know why.


lol nice.... Luke, (insert some vader breathing here) I am your fasha haha


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> I used good old fashioned brass-o for polishing, a microfiber towel for making sure the surface was prepped for lacquer, and Behlen copper protectant, if I recall correctly.
> 
> Be warned though: the more durable the lacquer (as in, the longer you can go without having to re-polish and re-lacquer), the less shiny your copper will be. Nothing will look as good as a freshly shined copper pipe.
> 
> This picture is before the lacquer. You can tell the difference pretty clearly--even _with_ my crappy phone pic.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah. Brasso is the thing for shining brass and copper.
I should know, I used enough of it in the Army. That was 40 years ago, maybe they got something better now, IDK.








Actually if you don't touch it with your fingers it holds up OK.


----------



## PepeLapiu

My understanding is that copper will oxidize and turn darker over time, no?
Anyway, I might just get a clear powder coat on it if it's not too expensive.


----------



## Shogon

Hope to start some stuff this weekend with my cheepo Home Depot bender, wish I didn't buy the wrong fittings at first lol. Darn you Koolance, or my inability to figure out that you don't work with 10mm pipe lol.




Dad was more then happy to lend me his tube cutter. He bought it a long time ago for his work, only used it twice lol. Think it was for brake lines or something.


----------



## turbobnl

Nice blue point tube cutter


----------



## PepeLapiu

For posterity's sake in case others are considering the look of bare copper, I bought Tremclad clear gloss paint from Home dePot . Color # is 270738522 Clear Gloss. I will report back on results. Hopefully it will preserve the nice look of polished copper without tarnishing or yellowing.

Cheers


----------



## Stickeelion

Would anyone here know what sort of price difference you are looking at for doing a copper tubing loop over a plastic tubing loop?


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Would anyone here know what sort of price difference you are looking at for doing a copper tubing loop over a plastic tubing loop?


So far mine will end up being cheaper than a primochill loop. My 10mm copper tubes are costing me 2.50$ per foot and the pusg-fit fittings are cheap for 2.43$ each here. But that does not include the tube bender and tube cutter. The cutter is cheap around 20$ but the bender will be at least 80$ plus shipping. Unless you can borrow one from somebody else here.

The bonus is that it will last forever in this build without ever getting cloudy or leashing out plasticizers. And it will look way cooler. But the downfall is that you can't really reuse it from this build to the next one. But not too many guys do that anyway.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Would anyone here know what sort of price difference you are looking at for doing a copper tubing loop over a plastic tubing loop?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> The bonus is that *it will last forever in this build without ever getting cloudy or leashing out plasticizers*. And it will look way cooler. But the downfall is that you can't really reuse it from this build to the next one. But not too many guys do that anyway.


Just as Pepe said quite well. And at any rate you will end up replacing the tubing because it will get cloudy, or if you use dyes they will be stained. Plasticizer leach is also a factor, as an investment going copper is worth it, no need to buy it again in a couple of months like you do plastic tubing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbobnl*
> 
> Nice blue point tube cutter


Hehe thank you







it does a wonderful job on this pipe I say. Glad my dad had it!


----------



## Stickeelion

Thanks guys +rep, It seems an effort and time consuming to set up, I think I'll go for tubing as I have expensive new hardware slowly going redundant in the cupboard and I'm anxious to get my build done.

Don't worry I'm certain to put it in my subsequent build


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> For posterity's sake in case others are considering the look of bare copper, I bought Tremclad clear gloss paint from Home dePot . Color # is 270738522 Clear Gloss. I will report back on results. Hopefully it will preserve the nice look of polished copper without tarnishing or yellowing.
> 
> Cheers


If you polish the pipe then hit it with a good automotive lacquer then you should be good.

Remember not to lacquer all the way down to the o-ring,you want a metal/o-ring contact,I would be wary of long term contact between a solvent based paint and O-rings.

You could consider using a wax instead of a paint.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> I used good old fashioned brass-o for polishing, a microfiber towel for making sure the surface was prepped for lacquer, and Behlen copper protectant, if I recall correctly.
> 
> Be warned though: the more durable the lacquer (as in, the longer you can go without having to re-polish and re-lacquer), the less shiny your copper will be. Nothing will look as good as a freshly shined copper pipe.
> 
> This picture is before the lacquer. You can tell the difference pretty clearly--even _with_ my crappy phone pic.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah. Brasso is the thing for shining brass and copper.
> I should know, I used enough of it in the Army. That was 40 years ago, maybe they got something better now, IDK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Actually if you don't touch it with your fingers it holds up OK*.
Click to expand...

This^^

The grease from fingerprints is a nightmare,copper,stainless,nickel plate...all mark badly if fingerprints are left to oxidize.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Yeah. Brasso is the thing for shining brass and copper.
> I should know, I used enough of it in the Army. That was 40 years ago, maybe they got something better now, IDK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually if you don't touch it with your fingers it holds up OK.


Well for my still, the heat in the column would expedite the oxidative process. I never touch the actual column anyways since I always have thermal insulation on it when I'm running but it does still oxidize over time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The grease from fingerprints is a nightmare,copper,stainless,nickel plate...all mark badly if fingerprints are left to oxidize.


Right, but it _will_ still oxidize. I didn't want to lead him astray and 3 months from now have someone accusing anyone of false claims


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you polish the pipe then hit it with a good automotive lacquer then you should be good.


Are you advising against the can of clear Tremclad I bought ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you polish the pipe then hit it with a good automotive lacquer then you should be good.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you advising against the can of clear Tremclad I bought ?
Click to expand...

Nope,never used it. But i have used auto lacquer for great effect so thats what i would recommend.
Let me know how your plan pans out.


----------



## kpforce1

I practiced some bending last night B-Neg.... lol needless to say I waisted a few feet of my tubing but I finally figured it out when I revisited your instructions on finding the radius lol







I should get the tubing done on the board and CPU blocks tonight. I'll be sure to post pics.

I'm still debating on if I want to polish the Cu because I have the Copper edition raystorm CPU blocks and they are shiny copper. Or.... pain the tubing white to go with the inside of my case or paint them black with mystique clear.... hmmm.. hell, maybe I'll just do half of each tube white and leave the other half polished copper lol. That would be pretty sweet


----------



## PepeLapiu

I think shiny polished copper is the classiest look you can get.

Can't wait to start bending mine.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I think shiny polished copper is the classiest look you can get.
> 
> Can't wait to start bending mine.


I'm having a hard time deciding lol.... i was looking at paint today (chrome, smoked chrome, some kind of chrome copper, etc.) I'm probably going to just polish them because of the copper raystorm blocks and eventually the Heatkiller X3 Copper Hole Ed blocks i'm going to pick up for the Titans.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Keep in mind that the Tremclad chrome paint and copper paint don't look all that good. I tried them both and didn't like the results


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> I practiced some bending last night B-Neg.... lol needless to say I waisted a few feet of my tubing but I finally figured it out when I revisited your instructions on finding the radius lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should get the tubing done on the board and CPU blocks tonight. I'll be sure to post pics.
> 
> I'm still debating on if I want to polish the Cu because I have the Copper edition raystorm CPU blocks and they are shiny copper. Or.... pain the tubing white to go with the inside of my case or paint them black with mystique clear.... hmmm.. hell, maybe I'll just do half of each tube white and leave the other half polished copper lol. That would be pretty sweet


Once you have the radius then its a lot easier neh?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Keep in mind that the Tremclad chrome paint and copper paint don't look all that good. I tried them both and didn't like the results


Thanks for the heads up.... think I'll just polish the tube and be done with it anyway


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Once you have the radius then its a lot easier neh?


Yeah, just a little bit







It was kind of like pin the tail on the donkey until i found the radius lol


----------



## kpforce1

Ok, I got some stuff bent "properly"







I haven't cut them down to the right height yet but here are some pics so far... the last one is the stuff I wasted by not taking radius into account and before i read the instructions on how to do it lol. I'm still trying to decided if I want to redo all of it and use nothing but 90* angles... hmm this will be less restrictive though









*** edit **** sorry for the crappy pics but the only camera i have is on my phone lol


----------



## Krusher33

I agree with you, that looks great with the copper raystorms.

I emailed PPC's about the ETA of the Phobya plugs. They said they have no freaking clue when they'll get more.

Also, when ordering from that aquatuning store, the "cheap" fittings comes to $5 a fitting after shipping costs. May as well go for the SLI fittings at that price. My opinion of course.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Yeah, but my point was about the cost of push-fits versus soft tube fittings. And even at $5 we are still under the price of most soft tube compression fittings.


----------



## skyhigh2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I agree with you, that looks great with the copper raystorms.
> 
> I emailed PPC's about the ETA of the Phobya plugs. They said they have no freaking clue when they'll get more.
> 
> Also, when ordering from that aquatuning store, the "cheap" fittings comes to $5 a fitting after shipping costs. May as well go for the SLI fittings at that price. My opinion of course.


I ordered 24 push fits from Aquatuning and just added a GPU backplate that i needed anyway to get my total up to $75 so I could use their $7 shipping









Edit:My bad. I paid $6 for 72hr shipping and its $8 for 48hr shipping to the US if your order is over $75.


----------



## Krusher33

Dagnabbit... I did not know about that.


----------



## kpforce1

Alright guys.... i need some assistnce. It appears that I have come across a NATEMAN Doo full Copper SR-2 block set for a really good price. I think i've decided to go the polished copper route for my tubing (have copper edition Raystorm CPU blocks and GPU blocks will be Heatkiller copper hole editions when they release). Problem is I've already gotten the MIPS block set installed. Who thinks I should use the MIPS and who thinks i should use this below?


----------



## PepeLapiu

Dude! Sell that MIPS. The copper one is so much better it's not even funny.


----------



## kpforce1

B-NEG if you want to add some info to the main post regarding Annealed copper tubing here you go:

I would recommend wearing gloves of course. Seems like whenever i'm working bare handed with copper i end up tasting it in my mouth lol (not to mention cutting or hitting yourself). Straitening coiled annealed copper tubing requires a vice, vice grips, and a hammer. This applies mostly for 3/8" OD tube (or 10 mm OD for comparison). Anything larger would require some serious force to get straight (meaning a large vice mounted to a steel desk and a heavier hammer).

1.) Uncoil a workable length of tubing (around 1 - 1.25 meters... shorter if you like) roughly straightening while doing so. Place an inch or so (enough for your vice to grip hard) of the tubing into the vice and clamp down.

2.) Clamp the vice grips (or clamping tool of your choice) to the other end in a fashion to where you can whack it real good with the blunt force applier of your choice







(i.e. hammer). The key when straightening is to keep your clamping tool in the same position at all times otherwise you may add a curve to the copper tube.

3.) Beat the tar out of the clamping tool (4-6 decent strikes) and see how straight the tube is. Rinse and repeat till you are content or until you have to re-clamp lol .

4.) Take vice grips off (holding the tube straight so it doesn't sag), remove from vice and cut smashed ends off.

5.) Congrats.... you've straightened some copper annealed pipe. Now grab a frosty beverage of your choice and read B-NEG's "finding the radius of you bender" instructions.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Dude! Sell that MIPS. The copper one is so much better it's not even funny.


Better looking,Yes. Better Performing? Not so sure...

Not taking anything away from Nate,I speak with him daily and consider him a friend,But Doc MIPS is legend.

Either way,you do need a block for this board,its stock cooling is woeful at best and either block will be within a few degrees of each other.

If you was to push me for an answer then i would say Nate's block purely for its awesome looks.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Dude! Sell that MIPS. The copper one is so much better it's not even funny.


I know.... I think I'm probably just going to pick that copper block set up.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Better looking,Yes. Better Performing? Not so sure...
> 
> Not taking anything away from Nate,I speak with him daily and consider him a friend,But Doc MIPS is legend.
> 
> Either way,you do need a block for this board,its stock cooling is woeful at best and either block will be within a few degrees of each other.
> 
> *If you was to push me for an answer then i would say Nate's block purely for its awesome looks*.


Being a board block, its going to perform way better than the stock restricted air flow setup lol.... and your last statement is why i'm probably going to pick up the Nateman Doo set "just because" lol


----------



## kpforce1

Anyway, back on topic.... lol Here is a youtube video of a guy straightening some coiled annealed tubing (granted its smaller than 3/8 - 10mm OD i think so waaaaay easier).






***** edit *****

OOOOrrr you can use this nifty tool (invented in the UK i might add lol) that does this job wonderfully!! However, not the most economical. If you wanted a longer coil of tubing it would be sweet though.

http://www.kwixuk.com/


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> B-NEG if you want to add some info to the main post regarding Annealed copper tubing here you go:
> 
> I would recommend wearing gloves of course. Seems like whenever i'm working bare handed with copper i end up tasting it in my mouth lol (not to mention cutting or hitting yourself). Straitening coiled annealed copper tubing requires a vice, vice grips, and a hammer. This applies mostly for 3/8" OD tube (or 10 mm OD for comparison). Anything larger would require some serious force to get straight (meaning a large vice mounted to a steel desk and a heavier hammer).
> 
> 1.) Uncoil a workable length of tubing (around 1 - 1.25 meters... shorter if you like) roughly straightening while doing so. Place an inch or so (enough for your vice to grip hard) of the tubing into the vice and clamp down.
> 
> 2.) Clamp the vice grips (or clamping tool of your choice) to the other end in a fashion to where you can whack it real good with the blunt force applier of your choice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i.e. hammer). The key when straightening is to keep your clamping tool in the same position at all times otherwise you may add a curve to the copper tube.
> 
> 3.) Beat the tar out of the clamping tool (4-6 decent strikes) and see how straight the tube is. Rinse and repeat till you are content or until you have to re-clamp lol .
> 
> 4.) Take vice grips off (holding the tube straight so it doesn't sag), remove from vice and cut smashed ends off.
> 
> 5.) Congrats.... you've straightened some copper annealed pipe. Now grab a frosty beverage of your choice and read B-NEG's "finding the radius of you bender" instructions.


All the pounding sounds like you'd end up kinking it.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> All the pounding sounds like you'd end up kinking it.


Its already semi straight from being uncoiled.... so definitely no kinking. Unless you do something terribly wrong lol


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> All the pounding sounds like you'd end up kinking it.


Did you watch the video in post 621?
I was surprised that this would work but the pounding is not likely to ever create kinks. If anything, it might remove a kink in the pipe.

As for the gloves, I work in construction and often around plumbers who work with this stuff all the time. I have never seen one of them wear gloves unless they are soldering something. But you can do that, it's not going to hurt anything.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Better looking,Yes. Better Performing? Not so sure...
> 
> Not taking anything away from Nate,I speak with him daily and consider him a friend,But Doc MIPS is legend.
> 
> Either way,you do need a block for this board,its stock cooling is woeful at best and either block will be within a few degrees of each other.
> 
> If you was to push me for an answer then i would say Nate's block purely for its awesome looks.


I wasn't making a statement about the performance, solely looks.
I don't know who Nate and doc MIPS are so I can not speak for or against either.
But let's face it, a mobo block is purely aesthetics, not for performance. I'm not putting down mobo blocks as I have had one in my last two builds and will keep on getting them. But I do it for looks/fun, not for performance.

Edit: the one thing I would worry about with a mobo block is it's restriction lever, or pressure drop.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Better looking,Yes. Better Performing? Not so sure...
> 
> Not taking anything away from Nate,I speak with him daily and consider him a friend,But Doc MIPS is legend.
> 
> Either way,you do need a block for this board,its stock cooling is woeful at best and either block will be within a few degrees of each other.
> 
> If you was to push me for an answer then i would say Nate's block purely for its awesome looks.
> 
> 
> 
> I wasn't making a statement about the performance, solely looks.
> I don't know who Nate and doc MIPS are so I can not speak for or against either.
> But let's face it, a mobo block is purely aesthetics, not for performance. I'm not putting down mobo blocks as I have had one in my last two builds and will keep on getting them. But I do it for looks/fun, not for performance.
> 
> Edit: the one thing I would worry about with a mobo block is it's restriction lever, or pressure drop.
Click to expand...

Not on the SR-2,the stock cooling as terrible and needs the block,do a little digging and you can see for yourself


----------



## kpforce1

As are the x58 motherboards.... stock cooling sucked ass. My VREG and chipset temps dropped like 30-40* C under load after the water blocks







That isn't purely aesthetic to me


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> All the pounding sounds like you'd end up kinking it.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you watch the video in post 621?
> I was surprised that this would work but the pounding is not likely to ever create kinks. If anything, it might remove a kink in the pipe.
> 
> As for the gloves, I work in construction and often around plumbers who work with this stuff all the time. I have never seen one of them wear gloves unless they are soldering something. But you can do that, it's not going to hurt anything.
Click to expand...

Oh I see now. I thought that video was going to be unrelated.


----------



## Krusher33

Abso-gorgeous


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Abso-gorgeous


Ooooooo I remember that project... I loved it!!


----------



## kpforce1

Well, here is my first attempt with the tubes white (and as always, I apologize for the crap pictures... I have to use the damn flash):


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Well, here is my first attempt with the tubes white (and as always, I apologize for the crap pictures... I have to use the damn flash):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now I really like that. How are what did you do to get them like that?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Now I really like that. How are what did you do to get them like that?


A rattle can


----------



## mandrix

For those going with 3/8" tubing, here is a shot of my little pipe tools.

The bender has channels for 3/8" - 5/16" - 1/4" tubing and was about $18 at Lowes. It was the only type in stock at the local store. Don't recall the price of the cutter.
The little bender has been working fine with my chromed faucet supply line tubing (also from Lowes/Home Depot).

I did find some 3/8" x 30" chromed supply line tubing stock for about $4.50 each at the local Lowes but had to pick through it as so many of them were bent all to hell.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> For those going with 3/8" tubing, here is a shot of my little pipe tools.
> 
> The bender has channels for 3/8" - 5/16" - 1/4" tubing and was about $18 at Lowes. It was the only type in stock at the local store. Don't recall the price of the cutter.
> The little bender has been working fine with my chromed faucet supply line tubing (also from Lowes/Home Depot).
> 
> I did find some 3/8" x 30" chromed supply line tubing stock for about $4.50 each at the local Lowes but had to pick through it as so many of them were bent all to hell.


Hey, i have that same bender







I didn't get any of the chrome tubing because they were all bent as well lol


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Hey, i have that same bender
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't get any of the chrome tubing because they were all bent as well lol


Yeah, what's up with that? You would think they wouldn't sell many.







I mean out of 30-40 pieces maybe 4 or 5 were fairly straight. It was pretty much the same at Home Depot.
I've scrounged up probably all I'll need though. I have 3 pieces of tubing installed and will be installing 3 more when the fittings come in.
If I like the overall look of the chrome I'll keep it, if not I'll go back to plain copper and polish it.


----------



## Krusher33

I think it depends on their employees. Either that or customers coming by and bending them. Or some kid.

I looked at them at both Lowe's and Home Depot near me. Only at Home Depot did they have a couple of bent ones. Otherwise they were all pretty darn straight and in good condition.


----------



## Stickeelion

I have another noob question guys (sorry never used copper in a pc before)









Can you buy coated tubing, particularly chome/silver or do you have to get it plated yourself?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Well, here is my first attempt with the tubes white (and as always, I apologize for the crap pictures... I have to use the damn flash):


Just to be clear, this is 3/8" pipe with the Koolance 10mm fittings?

I'm wanting to use 3/8" or 1/2" pipe simply because it's readily available from multiple stores within a 15 minute drive. As this will be a learning experience, possibly being short on the amount I have and needing to wait for an additional shipment rubs me the wrong way.

Are there any 3/8" specific fittings out there?


----------



## c5USSR72

OMG, that what I was looking for since I saw a build on on sites..... Thank you Kind person:thumb:


----------



## S3ason

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> I have another noob question guys (sorry never used copper in a pc before)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you buy coated tubing, particularly chome/silver or do you have to get it plated yourself?


You can buy coated tubing, but it will cost upwards of 2 x as much as plain tubing. Home depot and lowes sell coated pipes 20" in length for about $5.

Honestly, having it coated yourself is going to be cheaper in the long run. Depending on your skill and patience, it can take 15 feet or more of pipe to get enough useable bends. This would cost $80 or more from a retailer. Instead you can buy 25 feet at home depot or lowes for $30 or so and then have the rest coated for $40 (this was the coat my plater sent me). Overall cheaper and the coaters do a very good job with surface prep and polishing.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Just to be clear, this is 3/8" pipe with the Koolance 10mm fittings?
> 
> I'm wanting to use 3/8" or 1/2" pipe simply because it's readily available from multiple stores within a 15 minute drive. As this will be a learning experience, possibly being short on the amount I have and needing to wait for an additional shipment rubs me the wrong way.
> 
> Are there any 3/8" specific fittings out there?


Yes, 3/8" pipe with Koolance 10mm fittings. However, they advertize 10mm (3/8") lol. There is a difference and it may have been why when I started tightening the compression olives they were cocking sideways completely screwing up my hard pipe bending efforts :/ soooo.... long story short, I picked up some 3/8" compression rings to use with the fittings instead. Also because I wasn't happy with the overall resulting fit of my pipes so I'm redoing them. Using some harder tubing this time. I have some softer annealed coiled tube as well for some longer runs.

I also found some white appliance epoxy gloss paint i'm going to use on the pipes this time instead of the primer and clear i used last time. I think it will result in a waaaay more resilient finish.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> You can buy coated tubing, but it will cost upwards of 2 x as much as plain tubing. Home depot and lowes sell coated pipes 20" in length for about $5.
> 
> Honestly, having it coated yourself is going to be cheaper in the long run. Depending on your skill and patience, it can take 15 feet or more of pipe to get enough useable bends. This would cost $80 or more from a retailer. Instead you can buy 25 feet at home depot or lowes for $30 or so and then have the rest coated for $40 (this was the coat my plater sent me). Overall cheaper and the coaters do a very good job with surface prep and polishing.


Thanks S3ason, It would probably be cheaper to get pre-coated stuff where I lived, I was looking at getting some waterblocks coated and cheapest place had a $70 minimum charge


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> I have another noob question guys (sorry never used copper in a pc before)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you buy coated tubing, particularly chome/silver or do you have to get it plated yourself?
> 
> 
> 
> You can buy coated tubing, but it will cost upwards of 2 x as much as plain tubing. Home depot and lowes sell coated pipes 20" in length for about $5.
> 
> Honestly, having it coated yourself is going to be cheaper in the long run. Depending on your skill and patience, it can take 15 feet or more of pipe to get enough useable bends. This would cost $80 or more from a retailer. Instead you can buy 25 feet at home depot or lowes for $30 or so and then have the rest coated for $40 (this was the coat my plater sent me). Overall cheaper and the coaters do a very good job with surface prep and polishing.
Click to expand...

Very true,more importantly it lets you scuff and scratch the pipe while installing because its getting buffed and chromed after plus chrome can craze horribly if its being bent...It can flake off.


----------



## Stickeelion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Very true,more importantly it lets you scuff and scratch the pipe while installing because its getting buffed and chromed after plus chrome can craze horribly if its being bent...It can flake off.


oh dear, well that suddenly makes it much more expensive.









EDIT: Hold on a minute,I just saw that in your first post you bent coated tubing though and it seemed to work


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stickeelion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Very true,more importantly it lets you scuff and scratch the pipe while installing because its getting buffed and chromed after plus chrome can craze horribly if its being bent...It can flake off.
> 
> 
> 
> oh dear, well that suddenly makes it much more expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Hold on a minute,I just saw that in your first post you bent coated tubing though and it seemed to work
Click to expand...

Doesnt mean it will work with you tho so i cant say it will be fine for all.


----------



## PepeLapiu

I was actually surprised to see that some were suscesful in bending plated pipes wihtout the plating cracking at the mere idea if getting bent like that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I was actually surprised to see that some were suscesful in bending plated pipes wihtout the plating cracking at the mere idea if getting bent like that.


It depends on the thickness of the chrome,the radius is the bend and how well the plater knew his craft.

The correct method would be to plate afterwards but i have used the tube i used before and knew it would be up to the job.


----------



## mandrix

With the Home Depot and Lowes chromed tubing, I see some loss of brilliance and crazing of the chrome on the 90 degree bends. Having the plain copper tubing plated after making the bends would result in a much better finish than what I was able to obtain.
In my case there are no plating shops anywhere nearby, and I can be satisfied with my results so far. But the tubing would look much better chromed after bending than buying what I consider low grade plating in the products I bought.

I suspect the the plated tubing B NEG is using is very much better quality than what I've been able to find in the US, except in ultra high end fixtures that are too costly for my wallet.

In the end I suggest if you are in the US, look for high quality chromed fixtures or just have the completed plain copper chromed if you are looking for the absolute best finish obtainable. If you can be satisfied with some imperfection, then go with the chromed faucet tubing available in the big box home improvement stores.


----------



## goldry

Guys, please, share you experience. How long it usually take to prepare pipes (measurement, bending, starting over







, chroming) from scratch. It looks nice, but before trying this I would like to know how much efforts it will required. Thank you.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goldry*
> 
> Guys, please, share you experience. How long it usually take to prepare pipes (measurement, bending, starting over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , chroming) from scratch. It looks nice, but before trying this I would like to know how much efforts it will required. Thank you.


It will depend on your own abilities, tools, patience, type of fittings used, waterblock height differences, and desired result







. My experience was pretty ridiculous lol... and I it can require quite a bit of effort. 've used 12 ft of tube, and now have one correct fitting piece haha... now the epoxy paint I've started using adds a 9 hour delay on handling for cure time as well. Well worth the time and effort though.


----------



## Michalius

I've tried looking through this thread to find the answer, but I couldn't seem to find anything on this.

The 10/13mm copper pipe available through McMasters indicates that the straight pipe is not bendable while the annealed is. Do they mean 'not bendable if you don't torch it and/or use a bender', or do they straight up mean not bendable?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I've tried looking through this thread to find the answer, but I couldn't seem to find anything on this.
> 
> The 10/13mm copper pipe available through McMasters indicates that the straight pipe is not bendable while the annealed is. Do they mean 'not bendable if you don't torch it and/or use a bender', or do they straight up mean not bendable?


It requires a bender rather than hand forming like the annealed.

You can bend it,thats what the guide is about.


----------



## Michalius

I assumed so, just wanted to make absolutely sure before ordering. I think what I'm going to do is just buy some 3/8" pipe locally to learn with. Once I have it down, I'll switch over to the proper size.


----------



## Krusher33

B, I think you answered this awhile back but I can't remember. In regards to hard vs coiled, why would one choose one over the other? Like what are the benefits/disadvantages of each?


----------



## Michalius

The coiled isn't straight, so to maintain that clean pipe look you would have to go through a fairly intensive process of straightening it. Even after that, it might not look totally right.

At least, that's the big negative I've been able to gather from reading this.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> B, I think you answered this awhile back but I can't remember. In regards to hard vs coiled, why would one choose one over the other? Like what are the benefits/disadvantages of each?


Annealed is for bending springs and is thin walled,can crease in a set of benders
Hard is thicker walled,has a higher yield and tensile strength and requires a bender


----------



## Krusher33

Right, but besides the straightening and bending points, anything else? I'm assuming you can get a tighter radius with the hard ones?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Right, but besides the straightening and bending points, anything else? I'm assuming you can get a tighter radius with the hard ones?


I noticed no difference in bending radius from one to the other







Nor any evidence of potential creasing. The side walls on the coiled vs hard copper I got were virtually identical as well. However, i cannot comment on the seal produced when using compression ring fittings as I have not tested them with the annealed in an active loop yet.


----------



## kpforce1

So the white epoxy appliance paint I'm using still isn't dry lol....looks great but damn....24 hours and I still can't handle it


----------



## deafboy

I used coiled and had no problems whatsoever straightening it or bending it. Granted, all my runs are pretty short so there aren't many long stretches.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Something of interest...



Very handy for disrupting laminar flow,might be worth a closer look.


----------



## deafboy

Interesting.

I have a feeling it wouldn't be worth the increased cost, given the limited amount of tubing actually used. Would be curious to see the differences though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Interesting.
> 
> I have a feeling it wouldn't be worth the increased cost, given the limited amount of tubing actually used. Would be curious to see the differences though.


Yeah,can't see it amounting to much but would be fun to see any difference,good or bad.


----------



## deafboy

Haha, well I don't think there would be any bad aside from cost maybe. But agreed, someone needs to get both and test them... FOR SCIENCE!


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yeah,can't see it amounting to much but would be fun to see any difference,good or bad.


Yeah, but you could say "I've got inner-groved copper tubing in my rig" lol...


----------



## Krusher33

I don't understand how it's more minimal pressure drop. I feel like it would be more restrictive? The way I picture it is that you're forcing the water against the grooves causing them to go a certain way as oppose to smooth surface.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I don't understand how it's more minimal pressure drop. I feel like it would be more restrictive? The way I picture it is that you're forcing the water against the grooves causing them to go a certain way as oppose to smooth surface.


The water sees it more like putting thousands of tiny little roadblocks in the way. So the molecules bump off of the roadblocks and back into the middle of the tube, where you want them. Laminar flow can disrupt heat exchange, and making the inside of a tube rough (whether it's cement or grooved metal) typically will reduce the laminar qualities of the flow profile.

To an extent. If the grooves were really soft and there weren't many of them--think the necks of those newfangled beer bottles--you can theoretically increase the laminar nature of the flow, just like you're thinking.

edit: I kind of got off topic there ha, but tl;dr-- the higher the Reynold's number, the better your heat exchange.


----------



## Krusher33

Hmm, I see.

And I had a moment of revisiting the copper tubing idea for my future build. A guy posted a pic of his Sabertooth 990FX R2 board and I had just come from reading this article. With copper tubing on my mind I was thinking "copper would look good with that I think?"

I have the 1st version of the board. I think it would look good if the tubing matched the green color of the heatsinks on the 1st version of the Sabertooth? I just wonder how I go about color matching it....


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I think it would look good if the tubing matched the green color of the heatsinks on the 1st version of the Sabertooth? I just wonder how I go about color matching it....


That _would_ look cool









I would head to a place like a custom motorcycle shop and talk to the guys about how to color chrome plating. They do that kind of stuff all the time I bet.


----------



## goldry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> It will depend on your own abilities, tools, patience, type of fittings used, waterblock height differences, and desired result
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My experience was pretty ridiculous lol... and I it can require quite a bit of effort. 've used 12 ft of tube, and now have one correct fitting piece haha... now the epoxy paint I've started using adds a 9 hour delay on handling for cure time as well. Well worth the time and effort though.


Thank you.


----------



## Razarach

I find this *fittings* and they are pretty nice. I know that some of you used similar air pneumatic fittings for water cooling. So question is, are these fitting leak proof?


----------



## deafboy

If something is air tight it's water tight... That being said though, doubt those would work. Those don't appear to be bspp.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Those are NPT fittings,not really a desired thread,the pitch of the thread is the same as BSPT but the profile is coarser.


----------



## NimbleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razarach*
> 
> I find this *fittings* and they are pretty nice. I know that some of you used similar air pneumatic fittings for water cooling. So question is, are these fitting leak proof?


They will fit your blocks and such, but you will need teflon tape to form a proper seal. The problem is that those fittings wont screw all the way into what ever blocks/resevoirs/misc watercooling gear you have, they will stick out about half way.


----------



## kpforce1

Just an update on the epoxy appliance paint I used to paint my tubes.....Lets just say the tubes I used regular paint on look like complete crap in comparison. Wow.... just wow. It doesn't look like paint at all. It looks like I had the tube powder coated







Now if only I had found this stuff before I painted my case







I"ll get some pictures tonight after work.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Just an update on the epoxy appliance paint I used to paint my tubes.....Lets just say the tubes I used regular paint on look like complete crap in comparison. Wow.... just wow. It doesn't look like paint at all. It looks like I had the tube powder coated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if only I had found this stuff before I painted my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I"ll get some pictures tonight after work.


Sounds awesome! I can't recall seeing a brand or anything when you were talking about it initially (and I don't feel like digging







)
Do you have a name or brand or maybe also a price for that stuff?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Sounds awesome! I can't recall seeing a brand or anything when you were talking about it initially (and I don't feel like digging
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Do you have a name or brand or maybe also a price for that stuff?


Well, i just spent 20 min trying to find it online. I got it at Lowe's and it was the only thing they had in white that said "Appliance Epoxy Paint". I'll post exactly what it is with a picture when I get home today.







By far the best option for painting tubes yourself from what I can see so far.


----------



## Michalius

I'm leaning very heavy towards ordering this for painting the pipe.

https://www.dipyourcar.com/product.php?productid=24&cat=15&page=1


----------



## Krusher33

They sell plasti-dip in spray cans in home improvement stores like Home Depot and Ace Hardware. I don't think you need a $200 kit.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Any paint with a decent primer will be ok,you dont need expensive paints.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> They sell plasti-dip in spray cans in home improvement stores like Home Depot and Ace Hardware. I don't think you need a $200 kit.


From what I understand, the cans give a really bumpy/grainy finish. The included paint gun with this makes it look like powdercoat.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Any paint with a decent primer will be ok,you dont need expensive paints.


Yeah, I have some really nice paint (MTN colors) as well as some pretty outstanding primer that I use on a variety of things. This is more of attempting to get both a consistent finish and a certain texture that I think will add to the aesthetic.


----------



## Krusher33

Textured is more the word I'd use but yeah. But like B said, I don't think it's worth it on just the tubing. If you've got some massive project then maybe...


----------



## Michalius

Well, it's more that I would have it for future projects. Another tool is always welcome.

I'm thinking that I would actually do both my AX rad shrouds as well as the pipes.


----------



## Razarach

Tnx guys for answer. So it's better to add few more bucks and buy *these* ?


----------



## Ultracarpet

Does metal pipe vs conventional tubing require less maintenance once up and running? Like in regards to gunk etc... Also, is it a hassle to perform maintenance on? Draining the loop with metal piping seems like a huge hassle.

*forgot to include, regardless of the hassle... it looks so sick.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Sounds awesome! I can't recall seeing a brand or anything when you were talking about it initially (and I don't feel like digging
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Do you have a name or brand or maybe also a price for that stuff?


Ok so for those interested in the Epoxy paint I used here are the results.... it looks powder coated







The last two are the paint I used with part #


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultracarpet*
> 
> Does metal pipe vs conventional tubing require less maintenance once up and running? Like in regards to gunk etc... Also, is it a hassle to perform maintenance on? Draining the loop with metal piping seems like a huge hassle.
> 
> *forgot to include, regardless of the hassle... it looks so sick.


Like any loop you want to do a flush to get rid of any debris and oil/gunk.... after that you don't have to worry about plasticizer leaching or tube discoloration like you do with regular tubing














As for draining, just plumb in a drain line at the lowest point of your loop with a T-fitting (i always use the Kooance T's) with a screw off cap or something


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultracarpet*
> 
> Does metal pipe vs conventional tubing require less maintenance once up and running? Like in regards to gunk etc... Also, is it a hassle to perform maintenance on? Draining the loop with metal piping seems like a huge hassle.
> 
> *forgot to include, regardless of the hassle... it looks so sick.


There is no maintenance,it wont need any changing except for fluid


----------



## mandrix

I decided to ditch the chrome pipe and go with copper. Think I'm just going to polish it up with Brasso first and see how it looks. Right now I have a mix of copper and chrome until I get time to bend some more tubing. Since I already have copper cpu/gpu blocks I figure what the heck....I used some 2000 grit paper to get a smooth finish & take out any discolorations. Hopefully I can find some Brasso.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Here in Canada, you can buy Brasso in grocery stores in the household cleaning section.

I will also be going with the polished copper look. Prob is that copper tarnishes and so I'll be putting a clear coat on it.

Let us know what you use, if you coat it.


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is no maintenance,it wont need any changing except for fluid


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Like any loop you want to do a flush to get rid of any debris and oil/gunk.... after that you don't have to worry about plasticizer leaching or tube discoloration like you do with regular tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for draining, just plumb in a drain line at the lowest point of your loop with a T-fitting (i always use the Kooance T's) with a screw off cap or something


HMMMM..........

Currently looking at the (formerly) clear tubing in my case.

I know what I must do. lol.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Here in Canada, you can buy Brasso in grocery stores in the household cleaning section.
> 
> I will also be going with the polished copper look. Prob is that copper tarnishes and so I'll be putting a clear coat on it.
> 
> Let us know what you use, if you coat it.


I just looked at Wal*Mart online and they don't carry Brasso in the local stores, although my wife swears she has seen it. Only place I ever bought it was in Army PX years ago.
There is some stuff called Eagle One never dull that got good reviews.

Sanding the tubing down with the 2000 grit wet/dry paper gave the tubing a nice, light sheen, although I know it will oxidize eventually it looks OK right now.

One problem I had with some close tubing was a line from my Aquaero water block to the reservoir. Somehow I managed to pull the Aquaero back into the case a little bit when tightening the fittings. The fitting on the Aquaero was a royal pita to tighten due to the tight working quarters. In this case it's a good thing I have the Koolance fittings, I don't think you would ever get push fits to work here.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You can get push fit to work,you just need to be accurate with your measurements for pipe length.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I just looked at Wal*Mart online and they don't carry Brasso in the local stores, although my wife swears she has seen it.


You have a wife?

I call POSER!
Us real computer nerds don't associate with those carbon based life forms. (cowaring in the corner)









But joke aside, if you want, I can keep my eye lids peeled and if I see a can of brasso, I'll snear it up and ship it to ya. PM me if that interests you.


----------



## kpforce1

Here's bras so on amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s_ss_i_0_6?k=brasso&sprefix=brasso


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You can get push fit to work,you just need to be accurate with your measurements for pipe length.


Probably could. Fittings hard to get to in a few places, and you have really torque down on these ferrules to make them seal.
I went today and bought short 16mm & 17mm wrenches which helped immensely.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> You have a wife?
> 
> I call POSER!
> Us real computer nerds don't associate with those carbon based life forms. (cowaring in the corner)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But joke aside, if you want, I can keep my eye lids peeled and if I see a can of brasso, I'll snear it up and ship it to ya. PM me if that interests you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Here's bras so on amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s_ss_i_0_6?k=brasso&sprefix=brasso


Thanks guys, found it at Lowes today.


----------



## Boweezie

Hey guys! Looks like everyone is in full swing with copper pipes and whatnot, which is great







I'm looking to do a complete overhaul of my system and case since the mobo, ram and cpu are close to being 5 years old. I'm looking to do a red and white themed build and had a question for you guys. My pipes will be clear 12mm acrylic but I wanted to know if anyone has seen BitsPower Deluxe White SLI fittings yet? I looked all over their main website and couldn't find it on there. They make practically everything else in their white color except the SLI multi links I need :-/ I emailed them but haven't heard anything yet. Hopefully if they don't have it now, then in the near future they will.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Hey guys! Looks like everyone is in full swing with copper pipes and whatnot, which is great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking to do a complete overhaul of my system and case since the mobo, ram and cpu are close to being 5 years old. I'm looking to do a red and white themed build and had a question for you guys. My pipes will be clear 12mm acrylic but I wanted to know if anyone has seen BitsPower Deluxe White SLI fittings yet? I looked all over their main website and couldn't find it on there. They make practically everything else in their white color except the SLI multi links I need :-/ I emailed them but haven't heard anything yet. Hopefully if they don't have it now, then in the near future they will.


You could always paint them with the White epoxy paint I posted above


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Hey guys! Looks like everyone is in full swing with copper pipes and whatnot, which is great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking to do a complete overhaul of my system and case since the mobo, ram and cpu are close to being 5 years old. I'm looking to do a red and white themed build and had a question for you guys. My pipes will be clear 12mm acrylic but I wanted to know if anyone has seen BitsPower Deluxe White SLI fittings yet? I looked all over their main website and couldn't find it on there. They make practically everything else in their white color except the SLI multi links I need :-/ I emailed them but haven't heard anything yet. Hopefully if they don't have it now, then in the near future they will.


Unfortunately that is one of the fittings they don't make in white. I am also looking to use 12mm acrylic tube in my upcoming build makeover but I can't find any in the US. Was anyone ever able to find this in the US?


----------



## Pavo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Hey guys! Looks like everyone is in full swing with copper pipes and whatnot, which is great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking to do a complete overhaul of my system and case since the mobo, ram and cpu are close to being 5 years old. I'm looking to do a red and white themed build and had a question for you guys. My pipes will be clear 12mm acrylic but I wanted to know if anyone has seen BitsPower Deluxe White SLI fittings yet? I looked all over their main website and couldn't find it on there. They make practically everything else in their white color except the SLI multi links I need :-/ I emailed them but haven't heard anything yet. Hopefully if they don't have it now, then in the near future they will.


So I actually had to make a hotmail account to pm bitspower on their website to get an answer. I think my Comcast email was blocking them or something weird.

You can get any fitting in any color they have. Get the part number and change the color part to the color you want. So for instance I ordered a bunch of just brass fittings, y connectors, t bocks, etc and just emailed them the part number, how many pieces and don't forget to change out the color for the color you want. You will see what I'm talking about as all their part numbers follow an easy pattern. They might take up to 2 weeks to answer you, but once they do it goes quick.

Hope that helps.


----------



## voldomazta

So I ran into a problem:



I wanted to run the pipe from pump to the mid plate in a 90° fashion and with my luck, I bought the only pump top which has the outlet port set on an angle. This means I have to bend the pipe more than 90°, which breaks the outer part of the bend right? Is there anything I can do to remedy this, like bend the pipe in two different places or just get a new pump top?


----------



## deafboy

Breaks the outer part of the bend? What bender do you have? I have several bends tighter than 90 degrees.


----------



## oats2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Yeah. Brasso is the thing for shining brass and copper.
> I should know, I used enough of it in the Army. That was 40 years ago, maybe they got something better now, IDK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually if you don't touch it with your fingers it holds up OK.


Just as another option for folks here for polishing

http://pumaknifecompanyusa.com/Metal-Polish-P110.aspx

We got told to use brasso (which works alright) but its is extremely dirty, takes a good bit of liquid, and also is not as effective as the product above. its about $8 per tube if you can find it at a local military depot etc.

literally had one tube of puma for 4 years of shining buckles, collar brass and other uniform items. It takes a tiny drop to shine a whole belt buckle, its quicker than brasso by a good 30 minutes to get the same shine and leaves less residue.........there are no other words than SUPERIOR lol. We felt we were almost cheating using puma because it was so much better than brasso

hope this helps for those looking to shine up those new metal loops


----------



## voldomazta

So I tried bending angles tighter than 90°, the first one made that little crack so I tried doing it again.



The second one made the same crack too.

By the way I have the Ridgid 36102 410M


----------



## oats2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> So I ran into a problem:
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to run the pipe from pump to the mid plate in a 90° fashion and with my luck, I bought the only pump top which has the outlet port set on an angle. This means I have to bend the pipe more than 90°, which breaks the outer part of the bend right? Is there anything I can do to remedy this, like bend the pipe in two different places or just get a new pump top?


you can do a jumper with four bends in it......

Bends (from left to right pump):

1. straight up at a less than 90 angle (pic looks like maybe be at 85~87)
2. bend at 90 to the right horizontal
3. bend 90 from horizontal to a straight down position(going to next pump)
4. bend again at 87 degrees into the right pump

This may be pretty close quarters to make four bends back to back but I think if it can be fit into the benders it will at least eliminate the greater than 90 degree bend cracking issue. hope that helps. let me know if you need clarification on what im visualizing in my minds eye lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> 
> 
> So I tried bending angles tighter than 90°, the first one made that little crack so I tried doing it again.
> 
> 
> 
> The second one made the same crack too.
> 
> By the way I have the Ridgid 36102 410M


I think your tube maybe a little thick on the wall...I can go 180s with most tube.

If you are struggling then make the 90 bend then shuffle along a bit then make the pump feed angle.


----------



## voldomazta

If it's a common problem then I was thinking somethig along the lines of this:



I'd prefer to use as few bends as possible to make it look smooth.


----------



## voldomazta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> 
> 
> So I tried bending angles tighter than 90°, the first one made that little crack so I tried doing it again.
> 
> 
> 
> The second one made the same crack too.
> 
> By the way I have the Ridgid 36102 410M
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think your tube maybe a little thick on the wall...I can go 180s with most tube.
> 
> If you are struggling then make the 90 bend then shuffle along a bit then make the pump feed angle.
Click to expand...

Spot on BNEG. I might do just that. Well, when I asked the guy I bought these tubes from regarding the tube wall here's what he said:
Quote:


> It would be Alloy 122 just like L, K & M . Those references are for wall thickness and does not apply to Metric.


----------



## mandrix

In order of wall thickness from thickest to thinnest it's K, L, M from what I've read.

I don't have any idea what's easiest to bend, I'm using refrigeration tubing.
Lowes had two different types of 3/8" coiled tubing, I'm using the "Utility Grade" which I now know is not as "pure" as other tubing, but I'm assuming the wall thickness is the same as the better grade.
If I had to do it over I probably would have selected the better grade just for the idea of less possible contaminants. But as often as I've been draining my loop lately I guess anything that might leach out is getting flushed.


----------



## EPiiKK

What kind of fittings can you use?
how much pipe you need for basic cpu + gpu loop?
How do you drain the loop?


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EPiiKK*
> 
> What kind of fittings can you use?
> how much pipe you need for basic cpu + gpu loop?
> How do you drain the loop?


I haven't done it yet so take my advise with a grain of salt.

I will be using 10mm OD copper pipes with 1mm wall bought from CopperTubingSales.com . They don't list the metric pipes on their site so you have to call/email them. I dealt with Aaron, ask him to cut your pipes in 4ft lenghts to save on shipping.

Here are the push-fit fittings I plan on using.

You would require just about the same amount of tubing as a plastic loop. But you might want to order more for practice trial bends.

To drain, I will be using the drain port on my Alphacool UT60 radiator. I'm sure there are other ways to skin that cat.


----------



## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pavo*
> 
> So I actually had to make a hotmail account to pm bitspower on their website to get an answer. I think my Comcast email was blocking them or something weird.
> 
> You can get any fitting in any color they have. Get the part number and change the color part to the color you want. So for instance I ordered a bunch of just brass fittings, y connectors, t bocks, etc and just emailed them the part number, how many pieces and don't forget to change out the color for the color you want. You will see what I'm talking about as all their part numbers follow an easy pattern. They might take up to 2 weeks to answer you, but once they do it goes quick.
> 
> Hope that helps.


Thanks, Pavo. I received a quote from them in the color I wanted. Quoting me about $7.50 per fitting which is kinda high, but at least they can do it


----------



## EPiiKK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I haven't done it yet so take my advise with a grain of salt.
> 
> I will be using 10mm OD copper pipes with 1mm wall bought from CopperTubingSales.com . They don't list the metric pipes on their site so you have to call/email them. I dealt with Aaron, ask him to cut your pipes in 4ft lenghts to save on shipping.
> 
> Here are the push-fit fittings I plan on using.
> 
> You would require just about the same amount of tubing as a plastic loop. But you might want to order more for practice trial bends.
> 
> To drain, I will be using the drain port on my Alphacool UT60 radiator. I'm sure there are other ways to skin that cat.


Alright thanks! Me and my friend are gonna build a new pc for him and we are gonna do WC with piping inside some really sweet case







Can't wait to get my hands working on that!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EPiiKK*
> 
> What kind of fittings can you use?
> how much pipe you need for basic cpu + gpu loop?
> How do you drain the loop?
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't done it yet so take my advise with a grain of salt.
> 
> I will be using 10mm OD copper pipes with 1mm wall bought from CopperTubingSales.com . They don't list the metric pipes on their site so you have to call/email them. I dealt with Aaron, ask him to cut your pipes in 4ft lenghts to save on shipping.
> 
> Here are the push-fit fittings I plan on using.
> 
> You would require just about the same amount of tubing as a plastic loop. But you might want to order more for practice trial bends.
> 
> To drain, I will be using the drain port on my Alphacool UT60 radiator. I'm sure there are other ways to skin that cat.
Click to expand...

Correct and good advice

I use around 3 Meters of tube for a build but I do end up with overstock. Mainly as the offcuts are never as long as I need them.
You do use slightly more than normal tube as you tend to do 90s and straight runs rather than point to point but nothing to worry about.


----------



## Krusher33

I know I said I'm ditching this idea but it's stuck on my mind and I keep looking for the cheapest route in case it does become affordable for me some day.

I need an opinion of something. I've already asked a member via pm but I thought I'd get some more input here.

If I get these push fittings from ebay...

Rather than cutting the thread, use these...
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_622&products_id=25603

The threads on the fittings are 5mm to uncompressed o-ring, the spacers are 3mm.

What do you think and why? It comes out to under $5 a fitting and allows me to buy our cheaper imperial sized tubing. I've emailed PPC's last week about ETA on the Phobya fittings and they say they don't have one. And on ordering the 10mm fittings from Aquatuning.us... I just can't seem to find $75 worth of stuff to order.


----------



## PepeLapiu

5
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I know I said I'm ditching this idea but it's stuck on my mind and I keep looking for the cheapest route in case it does become affordable for me some day.
> 
> I need an opinion of something. I've already asked a member via pm but I thought I'd get some more input here.
> 
> If I get these push fittings from ebay...
> 
> Rather than cutting the thread, use these...
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_622&products_id=25603
> 
> The threads on the fittings are 5mm to uncompressed o-ring, the spacers are 3mm.
> 
> What do you think and why? It comes out to under $5 a fitting and allows me to buy our cheaper imperial sized tubing. I've emailed PPC's last week about ETA on the Phobya fittings and they say they don't have one. And on ordering the 10mm fittings from Aquatuning.us... I just can't seem to find $75 worth of stuff to order.


If you want, I can combine my order with yours to bring it up to over 75$.
We just need to come up with a way of doing this why neither of us ripping off the other guy.
Also keep in mind that I live in Canada.

I ordered 10 meters of 10mm pipes cut in 8 pieces of 4ft lenghts. So I will most likely have too much of it.
Perhaps you could order my fittings and we swap the fittings for the pipes you need?

I paid 105$ for my order including shipping. UPS will likely extort an other 30$ of fake brokerage fees out of me when they deliver it.

So it should come out to a little under 17$ for each 4 ft lenght of pipe.

Edit: also, I recon I have no trader rating so you have no way of knowing how honest I am, or not.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I know I said I'm ditching this idea but it's stuck on my mind and I keep looking for the cheapest route in case it does become affordable for me some day.
> 
> I need an opinion of something. I've already asked a member via pm but I thought I'd get some more input here.
> 
> If I get these push fittings from ebay...
> 
> Rather than cutting the thread, use these...
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_622&products_id=25603
> 
> The threads on the fittings are 5mm to uncompressed o-ring, the spacers are 3mm.
> 
> What do you think and why? It comes out to under $5 a fitting and allows me to buy our cheaper imperial sized tubing. I've emailed PPC's last week about ETA on the Phobya fittings and they say they don't have one. And on ordering the 10mm fittings from Aquatuning.us... I just can't seem to find $75 worth of stuff to order.


I have used those spacers in my SR2,They work ok but are as ugly as sin...
You can just take a file to the fitting instead of sawing,a corse file will rip thru 2mm in no time.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> 5
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I know I said I'm ditching this idea but it's stuck on my mind and I keep looking for the cheapest route in case it does become affordable for me some day.
> 
> I need an opinion of something. I've already asked a member via pm but I thought I'd get some more input here.
> 
> If I get these push fittings from ebay...
> 
> Rather than cutting the thread, use these...
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_622&products_id=25603
> 
> The threads on the fittings are 5mm to uncompressed o-ring, the spacers are 3mm.
> 
> What do you think and why? It comes out to under $5 a fitting and allows me to buy our cheaper imperial sized tubing. I've emailed PPC's last week about ETA on the Phobya fittings and they say they don't have one. And on ordering the 10mm fittings from Aquatuning.us... I just can't seem to find $75 worth of stuff to order.
> 
> 
> 
> If you want, I can combine my order with yours to bring it up to over 75$.
> We just need to come up with a way of doing this why neither of us ripping off the other guy.
> Also keep in mind that I live in Canada.
> 
> I ordered 10 meters of 10mm pipes cut in 8 pieces of 4ft lenghts. So I will most likely have too much of it.
> Perhaps you could order my fittings and we swap the fittings for the pipes you need?
> 
> I paid 105$ for my order including shipping. UPS will likely extort an other 30$ of fake brokerage fees out of me when they deliver it.
> 
> So it should come out to a little under 17$ for each 4 ft lenght of pipe.
> 
> Edit: also, I recon I have no trader rating so you have no way of knowing how honest I am, or not.
Click to expand...

Great idea and I'd do it, but it won't be any time soon. I'm just thinking ahead really.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I know I said I'm ditching this idea but it's stuck on my mind and I keep looking for the cheapest route in case it does become affordable for me some day.
> 
> I need an opinion of something. I've already asked a member via pm but I thought I'd get some more input here.
> 
> If I get these push fittings from ebay...
> 
> Rather than cutting the thread, use these...
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_622&products_id=25603
> 
> The threads on the fittings are 5mm to uncompressed o-ring, the spacers are 3mm.
> 
> What do you think and why? It comes out to under $5 a fitting and allows me to buy our cheaper imperial sized tubing. I've emailed PPC's last week about ETA on the Phobya fittings and they say they don't have one. And on ordering the 10mm fittings from Aquatuning.us... I just can't seem to find $75 worth of stuff to order.
> 
> 
> 
> I have used those spacers in my SR2,They work ok but are as ugly as sin...
> You can just take a file to the fitting instead of sawing,a corse file will rip thru 2mm in no time.
Click to expand...

Oh? I had figured it had to be cut or lathed.


----------



## deafboy

No a file works wonders...I used a lathe because I have access to one and its cleaner.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Great idea and I'd do it, but it won't be any time soon. I'm just thinking ahead really.


How far ahead are you thinking? What's your timeline?

I was going to order my fittings soon. But I won't likely need them for an other 6 months or so ....very slow build here.
Still, it would be nice if I could get my hands on those fittings in the next couple of months.

I'll let you come up with a way to do the trade that is fair and less risky for both of us.

Cheers


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> No a file works wonders...I used a lathe because I have access to one and its cleaner.


Ah... well I feel much better about that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Great idea and I'd do it, but it won't be any time soon. I'm just thinking ahead really.
> 
> 
> 
> How far ahead are you thinking? What's your timeline?
> 
> I was going to order my fittings soon. But I won't likely need them for an other 6 months or so ....very slow build here.
> Still, it would be nice if I could get my hands on those fittings in the next couple of months.
> 
> I'll let you come up with a way to do the trade that is fair and less risky for both of us.
> 
> Cheers
Click to expand...

Yeah, same. I've just started on a layout of a desk top build. It'll likely be couple of months before I'll really need the tubing and fittings. Right now I'm focusing on selling a lot of my stuff to get a 7970 with hope that I'll have a bit left over for this.

As for your idea, it'll probably be best to have it all shipped to 1 guy and then ship the rest to the other guy in 1 package? PM me if you have a definitive timeline on your end.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Ah... well I feel much better about that.
> Yeah, same. I've just started on a layout of a desk top build. It'll likely be couple of months before I'll really need the tubing and fittings. Right now I'm focusing on selling a lot of my stuff to get a 7970 with hope that I'll have a bit left over for this.
> 
> As for your idea, it'll probably be best to have it all shipped to 1 guy and then ship the rest to the other guy in 1 package? PM me if you have a definitive timeline on your end.


I don't know if it's a good idea to ship the fittings to me first and than ship you your. In communist Canada, we have high border taxes and they will charge me for taxes on your share too as it comes in the country. And that would be two international shipments, instead of just one. Anyway, I'll pm you later tonight about all this.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I know I said I'm ditching this idea but it's stuck on my mind and I keep looking for the cheapest route in case it does become affordable for me some day.
> 
> I need an opinion of something. I've already asked a member via pm but I thought I'd get some more input here.
> 
> If I get these push fittings from ebay...
> 
> Rather than cutting the thread, use these...
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_622&products_id=25603
> 
> The threads on the fittings are 5mm to uncompressed o-ring, the spacers are 3mm.
> 
> What do you think and why? It comes out to under $5 a fitting and allows me to buy our cheaper imperial sized tubing. I've emailed PPC's last week about ETA on the Phobya fittings and they say they don't have one. And on ordering the 10mm fittings from Aquatuning.us... I just can't seem to find $75 worth of stuff to order.


Are you sure you need spacers with those fittings?
HTH


----------



## Krusher33

Somewhere someone said the thread is too long for blocks?


----------



## kpforce1

I think I have some o-ringed spacers in a box at home that I thought I would use... turns out I didn't use any of them lol


----------



## rotary7

I found Sterling Silver Tubing, i just wanted to share with you guys, no need for biocide or kill coil









http://www.silversupplies.com/catalog/metals/sterling_silver/tubing.shtml


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> I found Sterling Silver Tubing, i just wanted to share with you guys, no need for biocide or kill coil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.silversupplies.com/catalog/metals/sterling_silver/tubing.shtml


lol... wow I just priced 80 inches and it was $505 for it


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Are you sure you need spacers with those fittings?
> HTH
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


most of them have 5.5mm of threading, it's only 0.5mm more than usually it's only an issue with a few blocks gpu blocks if my memory serves me


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Are you sure you need spacers with those fittings?
> HTH
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> most of them have 5.5mm of threading, it's only 0.5mm more than usually it's only an issue with a few blocks gpu blocks if my memory serves me
Click to expand...

Most fittings are around 3.5 mm if memory serves,I had to use spacers on any 90 fitting I used them with.

Also I had to use them on a Aquacomputer cpu block and all GPU blocks as you have said.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Somewhere someone said the thread is too long for blocks?


What the other guys said, plus you may be thinking about the other industrial - type fittings that have a much longer thread length, I believe.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> lol... wow I just priced 80 inches and it was $505 for it


I make my own coloidal silver as a very effective home remedy. It's used as a biocide and anti-bacterial/anti-septic. I beleive only pure silver should be used. Sterling silver is either 80 or 90% pure. So it might not work as a biocide.

Since I just saved you $500, I'll gladly split it with you. Which means you owe me $250.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Most fittings are around 3.5 mm if memory serves,I had to use spacers on any 90 fitting I used them with.
> 
> Also I had to use them on a Aquacomputer cpu block and all GPU blocks as you have said.


i mean the threading allowed into blocks, most don't say the max allowed threading, and a few others say allow for 5mm threading on fittings, i'm just not sure if it's as big a deal for 0.5mm over. . . i guess you'd have to have the blocks to really know for certain. . .

i just remembered a few blocks stated max allowed thread length on fittings was 5mm, i remember they were full coverage gpu blocks, i'm pretty sure they were older blocks, i can't remember which ones, i'm more than certain it's a non-issue for most blocks, and nothing a grinder or a spacer can't fix for the others, just do a bit of research before you try putting it all together, just to find out only one of your blocks needs a set of spacers


----------



## rotary7

i think its .999 silver for those tubings


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> i think its .999 silver for those tubings


Kill coils are .999,Mick had a run of .99999 but im not sure he sells them anymore...
There was discussion on colodial silver in a loop,I don't think it worked as intended tho,I will try to find the test data...pretty sure it was on XS.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Kill coils are .999,Mick had a run of .99999 but im not sure he sells them anymore...
> There was discussion on colodial silver in a loop,I don't think it worked as intended tho,I will try to find the test data...pretty sure it was on XS.


yea you'd have to black out the loop completely for it to really work, plus when you increase the surface area of silver you increase the area that can be tarnished and ineffective as a biocide


----------



## PepeLapiu

Coloidal silver is just pure silver ionised in water via an electric current. I beleive sterling silver is considered an alloy, which would have diffetent properties than pure silver. Anyway, I don't think he really was going to build a loop with $500 silver tubes. So my advise was more in gest.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Coloidal silver is just pure silver ionised in water via an electric current. I beleive sterling silver is considered an alloy, which would have diffetent properties than pure silver. Anyway, I don't think he really was going to build a loop with $500 silver tubes. So my advise was more in gest.


It was an idea of merit but it was worked on before.
I'm pretty sure most coils are pure silver rather than sterling,you are correct in saying sterling doesn't work.

I tend to stick with Cu based biocides,silver is better for dyes as Cu biocides can make the dye clump.
There is a pic in the WC gallery of the reaction taking place in a glass and its not a pretty one either


----------



## PepeLapiu

Also, from my hydroponic "tomato" farming days I can say that algea only grows if there is light. So us copper pipe WCers are pretty safe. There could be algea growing in a clear res though, and most of them are clear.

Also, with hydroponics, we used a UV light to prevent algea from growing. Now the only part of my loop that will see the light is my FrozenQ bay res, which just happens to contain.a UV light. Now that one is way less powerful than the one I used for hydroponic so it could be useless to deter algea. Never the less, I don't think it will harm anything to have a UV light in there.

Anyhow, if any algea growth occurs, it will be in the res where there is light and I should spot that right away. So I won't be using SKC in this build, unless algea ever becomes an issue.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I just dumped 10 drops of biocide in instead,nothing is growing in there that's for sure.
I also microwave the water before use,dunno how much effect it has but it makes me feel better.
I'm interested in seeing if the transfer of copper ions from the tube has an effect but that means setting up for a fail and I don't fancy having to clean out bio organisms.....unless its a disposable loop.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Somewhere someone said the thread is too long for blocks?
> 
> 
> 
> What the other guys said, plus you may be thinking about the other industrial - type fittings that have a much longer thread length, I believe.
Click to expand...

You know I don't doubt that. I'm pretty bad about getting things mixed up and what not and will ask again and again.


----------



## Jackeduphard

Ligit... makes me want to water cool with PIPE!







but man take a lot of time ...


----------



## PepeLapiu

Not really. You should be able to bend all your pipes in one evening. Or a weekend if things dont go smoothly.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Not really. You should be able to bend all your pipes in one evening. Or a weekend if things dont go smoothly.


Just be sure to follow B-Negs instructions on finding the radius etc in the first post lol.... i forgot about it and wasted a lot of time and tubing haha


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Normally i can get a rig plumbed in a couple of hours and most of that is tweaking to get the lines right.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Darn you all! Right as my tubing comes in i see this! This looks awesome! :O


----------



## mandrix

Are you guys using push fits able to use them with a straight run of pipe? Or are you having to build in some angles to the tubing so you can insert it into the push fits, or unscrew the fittings to remove the tubing or ?

I've been wondering about that. It's not been a problem with the Koolance fittings, but from looking at the only push fits I have (Mettleair) there is basically no give or swivel to them at all. But then they weren't designed with water cooling loops in mind.

I have one pipe that is a straight shot about 11" and just by looking I don't see how the push fits would work. But then I haven't tried.....


----------



## PepeLapiu

In my planned loop, there will be one straight run of pipe. I will be getting a 90° fitting for that one, just to have a bend in the pipe and make things simple.


----------



## Drierwor

Amazing what you all have come up with so far. I'm in the begnings of desiging my build and will be doing WC myself. I know I already plan to do some "Piping" myself!!!







Expecting my case to arrive today. Woohoo! Sorry for the off topic part.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drierwor*
> 
> Amazing what you all have come up with so far. I'm in the begnings of desiging my build and will be doing WC myself. I know I already plan to do some "Piping" myself!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Expecting my case to arrive today. Woohoo! Sorry for the off topic part.


Its not off topic at all and im glad you are going to give it a go.
Welcome to the party!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> In my planned loop, there will be one straight run of pipe. I will be getting a 90° fitting for that one, just to have a bend in the pipe and make things simple.


Sounds like a plan.


----------



## mandrix

I bought a little non-lever bender for 1/2" tubing on Ebay for $5, I'm hoping it works good enough for a few mild bends.
It looks pretty much like this one.


I will be using 1/2" tubing on the front side of the loop, res-pump-rad #1-pedestal. Picked up a short stick of type L 1/2" yesterday for the 3 pieces.

I don't think I will have to do any 90's with the 1/2", but what is the bend radius for 1/2" pipe, about 1-1/2"?
I know the 3/8" is 1-1/4" to 1-5/16" or close.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I bought a little non-lever bender for 1/2" tubing on Ebay for $5, I'm hoping it works good enough for a few mild bends.
> It looks pretty much like this one.
> 
> 
> I will be using 1/2" tubing on the front side of the loop, res-pump-rad #1-pedestal. Picked up a short stick of type L 1/2" yesterday for the 3 pieces.
> 
> I don't think I will have to do any 90's with the 1/2", but what is the bend radius for 1/2" pipe, about 1-1/2"?
> I know the 3/8" is 1-1/4" to 1-5/16" or close.


Interesting bit of kit,not seen one of those in the UK...


----------



## Drierwor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its not off topic at all and im glad you are going to give it a go.
> Welcome to the party!


Thanks B!

Disappointment came for me yesterday. FedEx gave me an "Estimated" Date even after requesting 5 updates that day.







I had to call them to find out that FedEx Home delivery will deliver my Case-Labs M8 on Tuesday. Since they are given Sunday-Monday off. Everyone needs two days off.


----------



## Drierwor

Mandrix,

That looks like an interesting little bender maybe for 45* or 60* depending on how large the actual bender is.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Interesting bit of kit,not seen one of those in the UK...


I did a search on Ebay for tubing bender/pipe bender and a lot of these showed up. I think the normal price is around 13$ US. I'm hoping it will be good enough for some mild bends without kinking.
The actual one I bought is a Titan Tools 11486. If it works OK could be a cheaper way to get into tubing, although the lever type would be better.
If I have to I figure I can secure it in a large vice, or make a little jig for it out in my shop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drierwor*
> 
> Mandrix,
> 
> That looks like an interesting little bender maybe for 45* or 60* depending on how large the actual bender is.


Looks like it would do a 180. Depending on my final setup when I get the dual MCP35x pumps going again I'm hoping I won't need to make any extreme bends.
There will probably be only three 1/2" pipes and I didn't want to spend a lot of money on another bender.


----------



## Krusher33

Do keep us updated on that! BTW are you using it on the copper or the pre-chromed stuff you found?


----------



## Drierwor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Looks like it would do a 180. Depending on my final setup when I get the dual MCP35x pumps going again I'm hoping I won't need to make any extreme bends.
> There will probably be only three 1/2" pipes and I didn't want to spend a lot of money on another bender.


I noticed that but at the same time 1/2" pipe, I would assume, may be harder to bend if the bender has a short handle with out an additonal handle to help with the bend. I've not dealt with pipe bending to much though.







However I did work at lowes for 5 years so yeah. I know most of the products everyone is speaking about. Its sad I could tell to where to find the epoxy appliance paint with ease...









Edit: Seems I can not spell today either...


----------



## PepeLapiu

Finally!
I have been trying several spray paints in hope to find something to match polished copper. I would like to maybe get my fittings to loom like they are polished copper instead of cheap plactic or nickel plating. And if it looks good enought I might use it on the pipes themselves instead of fighting the tarnish process of copper. That was the idea but nothing really looked good enough for me. Nothing really looked anything close to polished copper.

Untill I stumbeled upon this at Canadian Tire, the Canucks version of Princess Auto.

Works like a charm, tried it on a little piece of plastic and it looks great.

Just thought I'd pass along the info in case others are planning something similar.

Cheers


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Finally!
> I have been trying several spray paints in hope to find something to match polished copper. I would like to maybe get my fittings to loom like they are polished copper instead of cheap plactic or nickel plating. And if it looks good enought I might use it on the pipes themselves instead of fighting the tarnish process of copper. That was the idea but nothing really looked good enough for me. Nothing really looked anything close to polished copper.
> 
> Untill I stumbeled upon this at Canadian Tire, the Canucks version of Princess Auto.
> 
> Works like a charm, tried it on a little piece of plastic and it looks great.
> 
> Just thought I'd pass along the info in case others are planning something similar.
> 
> Cheers


Why not polish and seal the tube if polished is the look you want? Waxes or a clearcoat would do this for you
Closest i found was 138s enamel by plasikote.
I used it on Arctic Water for the fan rings..



Do you have pics of the paint on something when its dry?


----------



## PepeLapiu

Yeah, I could polish the tubes and coat them . But I'm thinking of getting the black acetal on the blocks to look like copper too (maybe) and for sure I would want the fittings to look polished copper. So if the paint dorsn't match exactly with the tubes, the tubes would have to be painted.

I'll see about taking a pic when I get home. But honestly, the pic you have here looks awesome. I might actually go with that instead.

Cheers


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Yeah, I could polish the tubes and coat them . But I'm thinking of getting the black acetal on the blocks to look like copper too (maybe) and for sure I would want the fittings to look polished copper. So if the paint dorsn't match exactly with the tubes, the tubes would have to be painted.
> 
> I'll see about taking a pic when I get home. But honestly, the pic you have here looks awesome. I might actually go with that instead.
> 
> Cheers :cheers:j


No worries man.

The cans are around £3-4 each and they are the small 100ml cans tho.
You can alter the appearance with the primer too so you could,if you wanted to put some time in to it,get a closer match than what i got..

This paint really is better with the many thin coats approach as the metal particles tend to follow gravity if you heavy coat it,it also can be a bugger for reactions to other paint too.
If you have handled paints before then you know what i mean anyway and how to get round it.


----------



## Drierwor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


B,

The coating on those rings look awesome where did you get them or how did you paint them to that color. I'm buying some Corsair SP120 and AF120Quiet for my own buid, but I want to change the color of the rings to another color.

Edit: Syntax error...


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drierwor*
> 
> B,
> 
> The coating on those rings look awesome where did you get them or how did you paint them to that color. I'm buying some Corsair SP120 and AF120Quiet for my own buid, but I want to change the color of the rings to another color.
> 
> Edit: Syntax error...


From what I could gather we can't get that paint in North America. So I contacted a couple of UK resellers. If they can ship me some, just let me know and I'll grab you a few cans too. But I have the feeling they won't want to ship international for products under pressure (a.k.a. explosives, terrorist material)

Here it is:
http://www.tooled-up.com/product/plastikote-138s-dry-enamel-paint-copper-aerosol-100ml/161369/


----------



## Drierwor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> From what I could gather we can't get that paint in North America. So I contacted a couple of UK resellers. If they can ship me some, just let me know and I'll grab you a few cans too. But I have the feeling they won't want to ship international for products under pressure (a.k.a. explosives, terrorist material)
> 
> Here it is:
> http://www.tooled-up.com/product/plastikote-138s-dry-enamel-paint-copper-aerosol-100ml/161369/


I'll start researching on my end see if I have a way to find out if I could order it through some of the companies I had dealings with for Lowes.









Edit:

Just thought of this also we may want to look at Rustoleum they create a paint that is used for plastic itself to change the finish and it is also in a raddle can. However the actual colors you have you in local big box may vary. I go by check mine out today after work.

Well I was right about Rustoleum Click Here Comes in clear also so may help with sealing since it is for industrial use.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Drierwor*
> 
> B,
> 
> The coating on those rings look awesome where did you get them or how did you paint them to that color. I'm buying some Corsair SP120 and AF120Quiet for my own buid, but I want to change the color of the rings to another color.
> 
> Edit: Syntax error...
> 
> 
> 
> From what I could gather we can't get that paint in North America. So I contacted a couple of UK resellers. If they can ship me some, just let me know and I'll grab you a few cans too. But I have the feeling they won't want to ship international for products under pressure (a.k.a. explosives, terrorist material)
> 
> Here it is:
> http://www.tooled-up.com/product/plastikote-138s-dry-enamel-paint-copper-aerosol-100ml/161369/
Click to expand...

Exactly this.

Shipping pressurised containers by air is a no no as far as im aware...


----------



## Drierwor

Yes sadly it would seem so... That plastikote is legit through. But for those of us in North America Rutoleum does provide an industrial clear coat that would help with keeping the polish look of the Cu longer and with out allow it to be marred.


----------



## Krusher33

I think the plastikote is the same stuff you can get in the auto stores.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Well, turns out that gold paint doesn't look good at all when compared to actual copper. Here you can see an Alphacool rad cap copper plated against the paint. Don't mind the texture, I painted it outside in the wind at -15c.

I'm having problems posting pictures so here is the link to it if the picture doesn't show:


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I painted it outside in the wind at *-15c*


you wut


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Do keep us updated on that! BTW are you using it on the copper or the pre-chromed stuff you found?


No, I ditched the chromed pipes for plain copper, then I sand them lightly with 2000 grit wet/dry and polish with Brasso. All of the 3/8" was bent with the Superior Tool bender from Lowes.

All of the tubing I've installed so far is 3/8", all on the "back end" of the loop. On the "front end", or res to pump > I want to go with 1/2", which is only 3 lines. All the tubing to/from the 4 pedestal radiators is soft tubing from the bulkhead fittings in the bottom of the case and I will not be changing that.


----------



## Drierwor

So not trying to steal anything on here but I have started my *Build Log* and would greatly appreciate all the advice I can get in water cooling and components. I know I will be piping for sure.


----------



## mandrix

I think I saw someone here is using these, but thought I'd post just in case someone was interested. This is listed as a Parker push fitting, 3/8" tubing size, 1/4" BSSP thread size. As is the case with a lot of industrial type fittings, the actual internal size dips to about .256".
6-1/4PLPHBF4-B

Although I could not find any specs on the thread length, I believe this is an example of a fitting that has a long thread length that would require either using spacer(s) or trimming off the excess threads.
Typically I see these being sold in a 10 pack for roughly $90 US retail.

Also in the Parker catalog 3501-e there is listed on the same page push fits for metric tubing as well, for example 12mm tubing, 1/4" BSSP thread.
_______
Moving along to the Mettleair fittings which have been discussed before, they are available for 3/8" tubing, 1/4" BSSP threads. The actual internals dip down in size somewhat, as they are set up so as to be tightened internally with a 6mm hex wrench.
However as a test I set one of the fittings up in a drill press and successfully bored out the bottom of the fitting to just under 3/8". I did not go quite to a full 3/8" as leaving a slight ridge in the fitting prevents the tubing from being inserted all the way through the fitting, which is not necessary.


----------



## mandrix

I'm a little bummed about some of the bends I made on the recent 3/8" tubing I bought. Every time I bend a 90 I get some crinkling on the inner radius. I did not have this problem with the earlier tubing. Both were bought at the same place (Lowes) and made by Nibco. I ended up going through 4 foot of a 5 foot coil and still got the crinkles in the bend.
Same bending tool used for both. Strange, I can only assume it has something to do with the tubing itself.

Lowes has some type "L" in a 10 foot coil I may try, although it's double the price of the UT grade it would be worth it to get rid of the crappy bends.

Also I bought some type "L" straight 1/2" pipe for a few pieces when my little 1/2" bender gets here, I'm hoping it bends OK (the pipe).

Starting to wish I had stuck with the chromed pipe, it bent so nice although the chrome had some crazing on the 90's and I can't find it in the 1/2" size for the few pieces I'll need.


----------



## Drierwor

Mandrix,

Can we get some pics of the bends to see what is occuring exactly. Also if I recall from memory correctly the Supply lines used from lowes are a lot thinner than the 3/8" tubing especially if its straight tubing and not the soft coil tubing. You might be holding your tongue right.







I have faith you will get the bends your seeking.









Edit: Thinner meaning thinner walls... Its early.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Mandrix,is the pipe shifting when you bend it?


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Ok so for those interested in the Epoxy paint I used here are the results.... it looks powder coated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last two are the paint I used with part #
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey, if you have any reject pipe with that paint on it, would you do me a solid and try sanding it a little or something? I like that paint idea a lot, but would much rather have a matte finish to my piping. That would be awesome.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Hey, if you have any reject pipe with that paint on it, would you do me a solid and try sanding it a little or something? I like that paint idea a lot, but would much rather have a matte finish to my piping. That would be awesome.


You're in luck







I had something land on my beautiful paint job so I have to sand it anyway







. I had to wait for days to ensure the paint had cured though. Maybe I can do this tonight and see how it turns out. You could always use white Plastidip on your tubes instead







.... It would be waaaaay easier to get that matte white finish you are looking for


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drierwor*
> 
> Mandrix,
> 
> Can we get some pics of the bends to see what is occuring exactly. Also if I recall from memory correctly the Supply lines used from lowes are a lot thinner than the 3/8" tubing especially if its straight tubing and not the soft coil tubing. You might be holding your tongue right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have faith you will get the bends your seeking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Thinner meaning thinner walls... Its early.


This is coil tubing, utility grade but it's the same as I started with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Mandrix,is the pipe shifting when you bend it?


I don't think so.....I just didn't have that problem before, so I'm puzzled.

I can't see anything that's changed with the bender itself.....but still, you may be on to something. I'll keep a closer eye on the tubing as I bend it when I get some more.
Thanks.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Mandrix, did you try to anneal your pipes? A simple gas torch would do the trick. I'd give it a try ut being copper, it should take a bit of time.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Hey, if you have any reject pipe with that paint on it, would you do me a solid and try sanding it a little or something? I like that paint idea a lot, but would much rather have a matte finish to my piping. That would be awesome.


I had to sand nearly all of my pipes due to some kind of impurity and let me tell you.... the epoxy white paint sanded with 500 grit would give you the exact matte white look or black look you are looking for. Its almost like sanding primer







. Great stuff in my opinion







. So gentle sanding with 500 or so grit would be saweet for the look you are going for.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> I had to sand nearly all of my pipes due to some kind of impurity and let me tell you.... the epoxy white paint sanded with 500 grit would give you the exact matte white look or black look you are looking for. Its almost like sanding primer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Great stuff in my opinion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So gentle sanding with 500 or so grit would be saweet for the look you are going for.


Any pics, brother?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Mandrix, did you try to anneal your pipes? A simple gas torch would do the trick. I'd give it a try ut being copper, it should take a bit of time.


Nooo....I didn't try that. I honestly don't know what is up since I used that same tubing (different box) before. But following B NEG's advice, next time I do some bending I will look more closely to see if the pipe is slipping in the bender or if something has changed.
I thought that all the coiled stuff had been annealed but I obviously don't know for sure.
It could be that for whatever reason this run of tubing was thinner than what I bought before.

When I bent the chromed stuff, and the first coil copper tubing, I had no problems and it went pretty smoothly. Then I made some configuration changes and bought a 5 foot coil and it was nothing but a pita to bend, that is the little kinks and flat spots. I actually ended up using 4 foot to get one usable piece about 8" long. The leftover foot I experimented with to try and see why it wasn't working out.

Anyway I'll pick up some more tubing this week and give it another go, but I think I'll buy the type "L" coiled tubing this time. It's $8 more for a 10' coil, but considering what I've wasted this go around would be worth the extra price.
Wish I could find some 1/4" (3/8" OD) straight pipe locally. Don't know if that's even made.
I did manage to pick up some 3/8" (1/2" OD) straight pipe for the few pieces of larger pipe I'll need on the front end of the loop.


----------



## Sam muel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Abso-gorgeous


Where can i find the build log for this???


----------



## mandrix

OK so I did a bunch more reading on copper pipe..... and I found what I believe is annealed 1/4" pipe at Lowes in 2' lengths (3/8" OD) as it's listed as "Soft" type L. Would be easier if they would make their descriptions a little more informative, but "soft" seems to equate to "annealed" in Lowes product blurbs.
I only need to redo 2 of the 3/8" pipes so I won't need much.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> OK so I did a bunch more reading on copper pipe..... and I found what I believe is annealed 1/4" pipe at Lowes in 2' lengths (3/8" OD) as it's listed as "Soft" type L. Would be easier if they would make their descriptions a little more informative, but "soft" seems to equate to "annealed" in Lowes product blurbs.
> I only need to redo 2 of the 3/8" pipes so I won't need much.


I wish you luck mandrix


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sam muel*
> 
> Where can i find the build log for this???


I'm having a hard time remember the who before I can figure out the where.


----------



## Seredin

Seredin delivers









Project White build log


----------



## turbobnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Seredin delivers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Project White build log


thank you for the link


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Any pics, brother?


When I get home tonight









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> OK so I did a bunch more reading on copper pipe..... and I found what I believe is annealed 1/4" pipe at Lowes in 2' lengths (3/8" OD) as it's listed as "Soft" type L. Would be easier if they would make their descriptions a little more informative, but "soft" seems to equate to "annealed" in Lowes product blurbs.
> I only need to redo 2 of the 3/8" pipes so I won't need much.


That is the same annealed 3/8 OD tubing I picked up... luckily i got it the first time









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Seredin delivers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Project White build log


Pimp man







thanks because I was searching for it lol

I've posted in a few places, but I have to share it with you guys too







... my special project lol. More in my log


----------



## Krusher33

Right on. I've been waiting for someone to keep the housing but watercool the card. I was thinking not painting it though but it looks great.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Right on. I've been waiting for someone to keep the housing but watercool the card. I was thinking not painting it though but it looks great.


Thanks







I did cheat though







.... it isn't "paint" so to speak. I used white PlastiDip (so I could peel it off if need be







). I'm crazy, but i still had to ensure I could return the card to "stock" lol


----------



## Krusher33

Good thinking!


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*


This pic gave me the tinglies...









Is there a methodology to leaving the housing on a WCd card? I'd love to learn how to do that.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> This pic gave me the tinglies...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a methodology to leaving the housing on a WCd card? I'd love to learn how to do that.


Yeah, me too (thinks about warranty in the back of mind) haha. Here are the reasons for why I decided to do it:

1.) I hadn't seen anyone this to a Titan








2.) The Titan cooler is quite possibly one of the sexiest coolers ever and replacing it with a waterblock just wouldn't feel "right"








3.) I already have the MCW82 GPU blocks
4.) It would look fantastic!
5.) The stock VRAM and VRM cooler would be better than just putting heatsinks on (not to mention it has to say on for the beautiful shroud to cover it







)
6.) I get to keep the "GEFORCE GTX" logo lol (now to make it look a different color than green)
7.) See # 4
8.) Why not?


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Yeah, me too (thinks about warranty in the back of mind) haha. Here are the reasons for why I decided to do it:
> 
> 1.) I hadn't seen anyone this to a Titan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2.) The Titan cooler is quite possibly one of the sexiest coolers ever and replacing it with a waterblock just wouldn't feel "right"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3.) I already have the MCW82 GPU blocks
> 4.) It would look fantastic!
> 5.) The stock VRAM and VRM cooler would be better than just putting heatsinks on (not to mention it has to say on for the beautiful shroud to cover it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 6.) I get to keep the "GEFORCE GTX" logo lol (now to make it look a different color than green)
> 7.) See # 4
> 8.) Why not?


Did you do it yourself? Any tips/guides? I'd be looking to do it to this to keep that sexy metal on the outside of the housing.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Did you do it yourself? Any tips/guides? I'd be looking to do it to this to keep that sexy metal on the outside of the housing.


I did it myself. As for tips/guides, it looks like the 660 SC Sig 2 is quite a bit different than the Titan cooler. It looks like it would be easier and not require modding...ermmm... "fitting" lol. We'll discuss via PM


----------



## PepeLapiu

Get an inverted case if you are going to do this. Otherwise your beautiful 'stock' modded cover is facing down where you can't see it.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Get an inverted case if you are going to do this. Otherwise your beautiful 'stock' modded cover is facing down where you can't see it.


check my build log







. I modded my case for the inverted style


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Off topic guys,keep it for you build logs please.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Off topic guys,keep it for you build logs please.


Sorry B-Neg, I get carried away







.


----------



## Drierwor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Sorry B-Neg, I get carried away
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Its cool.







We all get carried away sometimes.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Off topic guys,keep it for you build logs please.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry B-Neg, I get carried away
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

No need to be sorry,you are excited by your build,ain't nothing wrong with that.


----------



## Boweezie

Hey guys, I found a place in the US that will ship me 6ft of 1/2 inch OD x 3/8 inch ID arcylic tubing for $15!







I know I will need to sand the edges down in order to have them fit into the SLI fittings. I can use a Dremel and sand them, but does anyone know of another way? I think I saw someon get a Dremel attachment that really helped them with sanding pipes down.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Hey guys, I found a place in the US that will ship me 6ft of 1/2 inch OD x 3/8 inch ID arcylic tubing for $15!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I will need to sand the edges down in order to have them fit into the SLI fittings. I can use a Dremel and sand them, but does anyone know of another way? I think I saw someon get a Dremel attachment that really helped them with sanding pipes down.


If you are referring to the BitsPower crystal link fittings they are for ~3/8" OD i thought? Pretty sure you will have to find a different fitting for that size tubing.


----------



## Drierwor

Coming from a Big Box Retail store working in the Hardware and Tools Dept. I never recall seeing an attachment that helps with the sanding. Unless your looking for a Sanding Drum or Flapwheel used for Dremel Rotary Tools.







However I'm just going on assumption here, but your wanting to sand the outside of the acrylic right?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Hey guys, I found a place in the US that will ship me 6ft of 1/2 inch OD x 3/8 inch ID arcylic tubing for $15!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I will need to sand the edges down in order to have them fit into the SLI fittings. I can use a Dremel and sand them, but does anyone know of another way? I think I saw someon get a Dremel attachment that really helped them with sanding pipes down.
> 
> 
> 
> If you are referring to the BitsPower crystal link fittings they are for ~3/8" OD i thought? Pretty sure you will have to find a different fitting for that size tubing.
Click to expand...

Actually 12mm. you have to bore the fittings down to size to fit a 1/2" tube.


----------



## Boweezie

Yep, I've used the BP fittings which are for 12mm and 1/2 inch comes out to roughly 12.7mm


----------



## Krusher33

I had considered sanding a tube down to 12mm but was advised against it by several people.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Hey guys, I found a place in the US that will ship me 6ft of 1/2 inch OD x 3/8 inch ID arcylic tubing for $15!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I will need to sand the edges down in order to have them fit into the SLI fittings. I can use a Dremel and sand them, but does anyone know of another way? I think I saw someon get a Dremel attachment that really helped them with sanding pipes down.


Got a website for that?


----------



## hammerforged

Build Log


----------



## Krusher33

That's the Koolance fittings with 1/2" tubing?


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> That's the Koolance fittings with 1/2" tubing?


Yeah. Sold as 3/8" tubing but the actual OD is 1/2". The pipe is type L copper. Available at almost any plumbing supply store. You really have to crank on the Koolance fittings because the larger wall thickness but it works pretty well. Too bad the Koolance fittings are outrageous price wise right now.

Picked up 20' of copper for almost the same price as some Primochill tubing or something.


----------



## Krusher33

Big reason why I want to go copper tubing but dagnabbit the fittings.


----------



## kgtuning

Holy hell! That's sick.. Very nice hammerforged!


----------



## PepeLapiu

Hammerforged - I love the dark theme and black pipes.

Krusher33 - Why don't you go for the 10mm pipes with Aquatuning fittings?
You can buy the pipes for about same price as Primochill hoses and the fittings would be cheaper than even barb fittings.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Build Log
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I checked the log, but maybe I didn't look hard enough..what paint did you use on the pipe? That's almost exactly the look I'd like.


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Holy hell! That's sick.. Very nice hammerforged!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Hammerforged - I love the dark theme and black pipes.
> 
> Krusher33 - Why don't you go for the 10mm pipes with Aquatuning fittings?
> You can buy the pipes for about same price as Primochill hoses and the fittings would be cheaper than even barb fittings.


Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> I checked the log, but maybe I didn't look hard enough..what paint did you use on the pipe? That's almost exactly the look I'd like.


Its a black spray paint from Rustoleum part of their "textured" line up.


----------



## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Got a website for that?


http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Extruded-Plexiglass-Acrylic-Tubing/ACREXT-500X-375


----------



## mandrix

Holy crap. This annealed 1/4" (3/8" OD) tubing I bought is gonna be cherry. In fact I had trouble finding any straight pieces, it's soft enough to bend with your hands. Cost wise around $2.50 a foot for the 2 foot pieces.
Now waiting on my RMA'd replacement pump and I can finish my setup, provided I can bend the 1/2" tubing without major headaches.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Boweezie if you try sanding that down let me know how it goes for you


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Build Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thats pretty sexy


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Any pics, brother?


Well, i tried to get some pics and they just won't turn out to illustrate. I think getting a paint like Hammerforged used would probably be the easiest route


----------



## superericla

Any fitting recommendations? I'm looking into going with copper pipes in my build, yet fittings seem to be an issue.


----------



## mandrix

Lot of options, but first you need to decide if you want to use metric or imperial tubing. This choice will dictate to some extent what you can get in the way of fittings.

Push type fittings require an absolute match on pipe size (per B NEG)
These fittings can be an industrial type (with some caveats), or can be ordered from Aquatuning, etc.

Koolance pipe fittings have a crush ferrule that allows some variation in pipe size. For example, NZL-CU10 fittings are for either 10mm or 3/8", NZL-CU13 fittings are for either 13mm or 1/2".
These can be ordered for example from PPCs.

I'm using the Koolance fittings and soon both 3/8" & 1/2" pipe/tubing.

You will likely need a pipe bender sized for the tubing you will be using, although annealed copper pipe is pretty soft and you could probably get by bending with the spring type benders, I recommend the spring type that goes inside, rather than outside the tubing if you can get them.

Be aware all copper tubing is not annealed, though, and I've found some tubing a pita to bend without "crinkling". Get good quality tubing, whether from a hardware store or ordered online.

Read back through the thread and you will see some different options, some cheaper than others.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Krusher33 - Why don't you go for the 10mm pipes with Aquatuning fittings?
> You can buy the pipes for about same price as Primochill hoses and the fittings would be cheaper than even barb fittings.


I may just have to swallow my pride and just go with the 10mm pipings. I was really hoping for 12mm or 1/2" tubings.

But first I'm selling a whole lot of stuff to buy a 7970 and hope to have some money left over for this. I just can't seem to stay away in the meantime and dream.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Mandrix, if a pipe is annealed or not should not be an issue. You can anneal it yourself. You only need a gas torch to heat up the pipe. Let it cool down in cold water and repeat.

That's how I anneal aluminium sheets and bar on an other unrelated hobby of mine. Copper should be identical. Here is a tut on how to anneal copper. You can obtain the same results with a 10$ gas torch on small parts ....so long as you get a hot blue flame. Here is a 



 too.

That is what I was suggesting you try with your plated tubes. My only concern is that the chrome plating could start blueing with the heat, like a Harley muffler if you will.

If you like your chromed pipes, you should give it a try.

Cheers


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I may just have to swallow my pride and just go with the 10mm pipings. I was really hoping for 12mm or 1/2" tubings.


I don't know why you feel that strongly about 12mm or 1/2" pipes. But I am planning a rather complex high flow, low restriction loop. In places wherre I would like the flow to be 1.8 gpm or more, I will be using these fittings. The excuse is that they would be less restrictive, but I just think it would look good to have double piprs in some areas. Tho it could be a challenge to have the pipes match perfectly, I don't know, I'll just have to give it a try.


----------



## Krusher33

Looks. I saw 3/8" and 1/2" copper tubing in person and just had my heart set on 1/2".


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Annealing isn't required for any part of a loop,any crinkling can normally be corrected with a change of technique or swapping the offending tube out.
Torching copper will change its colouring and serves no purpose,it wont harden it significantly.

If you want to try it however,the gas you are looking for is MAPP gas.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Annealing isn't supposed to harden the copper, it should make it softer and easier to bent.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Annealing isn't supposed to harden the copper, it should make it softer and easier to bent.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy)


You are right,im at work with a cold,im not with it at all......

If the tube is crinkling,annealing will only make it worse.
I did cover this earlier in the thread,I don't use benders with annealed tube,that's what springs are for,they have a limited bend radius for this purpose.


----------



## Krusher33

A tiny bit off topic but acrylic was discussed earlier in this thread: PPC's now sells E22's push fittings and acrylic tubings.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> A tiny bit off topic but acrylic was discussed earlier in this thread: PPC's now sells E22's push fittings and acrylic tubings.


Nate sells Camozzi fittings,they are very nice,especially the 10mm pushfit.
His tube is bang on as well,uniform OD and very clear.
There is a bending guide for that too in this thread.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> A tiny bit off topic but acrylic was discussed earlier in this thread: PPC's now sells E22's push fittings and acrylic tubings.


+ Rep!! I have been looking for this!! I'm assuming it will work with bitspower multi link fittings?


----------



## somebadlemonade

if your tube is crinkling, you have to do a hot/warm bend

heat the part of the tube you are going to bend with a torch, till it has a little hue of blue, wear gloves, you can polish off the blue, if you're going to get it plated or coated with a heat cured finish, you'll have to air anneal it by heating up that area again with it bent and let it cool in the air, don't quenching it in water, it'll make it brittle and prone to warping with heat based cured finishing

well that's what i've heard about working with copper, brass and aluminum


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> A tiny bit off topic but acrylic was discussed earlier in this thread: PPC's now sells E22's push fittings and acrylic tubings.
> 
> 
> 
> Nate sells Camozzi fittings,they are very nice,especially the 10mm pushfit.
> His tube is bang on as well,uniform OD and very clear.
> There is a bending guide for that too in this thread.
Click to expand...

This one? It says video don't exist. I did find a how-to thread at the mod zoo by k.3nny.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodInk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sortableturnip*
> 
> I wonder if you could use this PVC clear rigid tubing instead?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> It doesn't bend and you would see the glue when you used elbows...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you'll need to find 12mm tubing and use the Bitspower connectors.
Click to expand...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> if your tube is crinkling, you have to do a hot/warm bend
> 
> heat the part of the tube you are going to bend with a torch, till it has a little hue of blue, wear gloves, you can polish off the blue, if you're going to get it plated or coated with a heat cured finish, you'll have to air anneal it by heating up that area again with it bent and let it cool in the air, don't quenching it in water, it'll make it brittle and prone to warping with heat based cured finishing
> 
> well that's what i've heard about working with copper, brass and aluminum


Never in all my years as a plumber have I had to hot bend anything,not even stainless..
Its a case of wrong technique for the tube.


----------



## somebadlemonade

i thought it went against code to bend tubing, or maybe that's just in the states

edit: i forgot that that was for square tubing so it doesn't twist on you, ha, pardon my mistake


----------



## Michalius

TY for the plumbing expertise in here. I could imagine the theories and ideas that would spin off in this thread without being grounded in reality with an expert


----------



## PepeLapiu

I don't know about this. I don't want to start an other flame war but it seems to me they anneal metals to be more workable. I'm just going to have to try it myself when I get my pipes. They have been frozen in transit by UPS for the last 14 days.....#@%& UPS!


----------



## Drierwor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I don't know about this. I don't want to start an other flame war but it seems to me they anneal metals to be more workable. I'm just going to have to try it myself when I get my pipes. They have been frozen in transit by UPS for the last 14 days.....#@%& UPS!


Thats flipping crazy!!! 14 Days


----------



## CD69Scorp

Hey, I see all the talk about copper tubing, but I just wanted to throw out some pictures with what can be done with Acrylic tubing. I was going to use copper until I sew some talk at the beginning of this thread about Acrylic tubing and wanted to give it a shot. Other than the lack of push-fit fittings and that you can't find it in the U.S. I have to say I rely like this stuff. Once I get back to my log I will share some tricks and stuff I learned working with this tubing. I am just going thru a lot of pictures.

Now there is nothing wrong with copper, there are some beautiful builds in here like B-NEGATIVE has shown us, this is lust a little different.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

That's wicked!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## hammerforged

Yeah very nice! I guess I missed the acrylic guide but is all that done with a little heat and a bending form?


----------



## hammadj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> Hey, I see all the talk about copper tubing, but I just wanted to throw out some pictures with what can be done with Acrylic tubing. I was going to use copper until I sew some talk at the beginning of this thread about Acrylic tubing and wanted to give it a shot. Other than the lack of push-fit fittings and that you can't find it in the U.S. I have to say I rely like this stuff. Once I get back to my log I will share some tricks and stuff I learned working with this tubing. I am just going thru a lot of pictures.
> 
> Now there is nothing wrong with copper, there are some beautiful builds in here like B-NEGATIVE has shown us, this is lust a little different.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What fittings do you use?


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Yeah very nice! I guess I missed the acrylic guide but is all that done with a little heat and a bending form?


There was no guide just talked about. Done with heat gun and by hand. Thank you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammadj*
> 
> What fittings do you use?


BP SLI Cristal links


----------



## luciddreamer124

That's awesome! I'm looking to use acrylic tube in my build makeover. Did it want to collapse when you bent it or did it resist kinking?


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> That's awesome! I'm looking to use acrylic tube in my build makeover. Did it want to collapse when you bent it or did it resist kinking?


Yes it will collapse if you are not careful. B-Negative recommended a fuel line from a hobby shop and I tried it, worked pretty good but after a bit of practice I was able to do it free handed.


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> That's wicked!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


Thank you!!!


----------



## luciddreamer124

How long do you have to bend it before it cools down?


----------



## CD69Scorp

I will hold the bend till it cools, which doesn't take to long. I started dipping it in water to cool it faster. Just make sure you dry it before making another bend or adjusting it. That's what is nice about Acrylic you can reheat and fix it if it's not right. ( most of the time ) lol.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Here is a tutorial from a member on here named K.3nny: *link*


Spoiler: Pictures/Text



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Time to explain how to make acrylic tubing * my english is not THAT good!!!!
> 
> First of al, search and use object for the bends, i prefer steel, it keeps the heat stuck, and doesnt cool down your acrylic pipe that quick.
> 
> 
> 
> Always make the tube longer than u need!, the bends can not come out how u want sometimes (weakspots)
> 
> I use a Power suply 7mm thick cord (EU)
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer a hairdryer, because u cannot overheat the tube and it wont make it to warm so you pull the tube flat.
> 
> 
> 
> If the tube is hot enough, u cant start bending the pipe, dont pull to hard otherwise u get a flat spot at the end of the pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If u are at the point that your tubing is bend and lined up with the fittings u can cut it to size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a cheapo rotary tool and a dremel atachment (sanding barrel P120)
> 
> 
> 
> My working situation xD!
> 
> Tape it 7/8mm of the edge, so you know you dont get an ugly spot above your fitting
> 
> 
> 
> only sand the tube till its frosted! dont use pressure, dont create flatspots, the pipe is sold as 12mm but the exact size is 12.3/12.7! so yes just a little touch all around is enough! finish it up with sandpaper Grid P400 so the rubber ring wil fit nicely!
> 
> 
> 
> Test the fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats it for this little guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Further on with this update!
> 
> ready to be cleaned and Filled up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !






Jeffinslaw


----------



## PepeLapiu

Well, I gotta say acrylic tubes didn't ever appeal to me because I thought it would look like regular clear tubing. But what you did looks sick.dude! No mistaking that for primochill, that's for sure.

Now, why can't you use push-fits with the acrylic?

And again, that stuff looks great! Makes me wanna scrap my copper tubes.


----------



## luciddreamer124

I think the major benefit of acrylic tube over regular clear tubing is that it doesn't suffer from plasticizer or yellowing. Much more vibrant coolant color shows through


----------



## hammerforged

I bet acrylic would hold up to painting pretty nicely as well


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Well, I gotta say acrylic tubes didn't ever appeal to me because I thought it would look like regular clear tubing. But what you did looks sick.dude! No mistaking that for primochill, that's for sure.
> 
> Now, why can't you use push-fits with the acrylic?
> 
> And again, that stuff looks great! Makes me wanna scrap my copper tubes.


Thanks, I hadn't seen anything as for as push-fit fittings go that would hold onto Acrylic, at lest when I started this. I have been seeing some out there now but a little to late for me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> I think the major benefit of acrylic tube over regular clear tubing is that it doesn't suffer from plasticizer or yellowing. Much more vibrant coolant color shows through


This exactly, and it does not consume you case like soft tubing can.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> I think the major benefit of acrylic tube over regular clear tubing is that it doesn't suffer from plasticizer or yellowing. Much more vibrant coolant color shows through


To me, the major benefit is an aesthetic one. I decided to do copper because of the clouding/plastisizer/yellowing of soft tubes. But in the end it's the look that really got me. And acrylic looks just as good too.

But I also wanted to be different and it seems this hard tube stuff is picking up and getting more popular.

Give it a couple of years and I think FrozenCPU and PPC will sell metric copper tubes, acrylic tubes, and fittings for them too.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hammerforged*
> 
> Yeah very nice! I guess I missed the acrylic guide but is all that done with a little heat and a bending form?
> 
> 
> 
> There was no guide just talked about. Done with heat gun and by hand. Thank you.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hammadj*
> 
> What fittings do you use?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> BP SLI Cristal links
Click to expand...

Not true,i gave a good guide for it in this thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *d_yin*
> 
> I've obtained some acrylic tubing to experiment with ...12mm OD 8mm ID around 4 meter
> I got some question though ....
> 1. How do you measure where to bend since I'm not bending it using any tools just a heat gun
> 2. Multiple bend ... hard or ...just give up ?
> 3. The ID are 8mm so 1mm thicker than the bits sli connector does this affect the temperature greatly or just ignore ...
> 
> 
> 
> It's a piece of silicon tube, it's flexible, doesn't stick to plastic, and keeps its roundness when bent.
> 
> You attached it to a piece of wire (press fit) and put it up the tube
> 
> 
> 
> You then set it in the position You want it to be in (you can see the black mark for where the bent centre should be) and then You heat up an area 2-3 times the diamter, so, say for 3/8" tubing you would doing about an inch, but for 3/4, youd be looking for at least 2 1/2" minimum.
> 
> 
> 
> Heat it by rolling the tube and making sure you have even heat, (wear a heatproof glove on one hand at least!) when it all goes soft, and starts to bend under it's own weight, put it in the position you want it, and wait till it cools.
> 
> you should have a nice bend if you got it right.
> 
> 
> 
> then, slooowly pull out the silicon tube, and you should have a nice clean bend.
> 
> Silicon tube is used in model aircraft as fuel tube and exhaust couplers.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Well, I gotta say acrylic tubes didn't ever appeal to me because I thought it would look like regular clear tubing. But what you did looks sick.dude! No mistaking that for primochill, that's for sure.
> 
> Now, why can't you use push-fits with the acrylic?
> 
> And again, that stuff looks great! Makes me wanna scrap my copper tubes.


You can use pushfit,the toothed ring bites brilliantly into the pipe.


----------



## CD69Scorp

This hole thread is a guide, Copper and Acrylic. I didn't mean to sound like there wasn't. It was a little late last night and it came out wrong.

All the tips and tricks that B-NEG, Deafboy, K.3nny etc. has been invaluable. For that I am grateful. This Acrylic tubing is something relative new, and has been a lot of fun working with it.

Like I said, I didn't know about the push-fit fittings until recently. Would have liked to try them out, and I might just do that.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I think I saw someone here is using these, but thought I'd post just in case someone was interested. This is listed as a Parker push fitting, 3/8" tubing size, 1/4" BSSP thread size. As is the case with a lot of industrial type fittings, the actual internal size dips to about .256".
> 6-1/4PLPHBF4-B
> 
> Although I could not find any specs on the thread length, I believe this is an example of a fitting that has a long thread length that would require either using spacer(s) or trimming off the excess threads.
> Typically I see these being sold in a 10 pack for roughly $90 US retail.
> 
> Also in the Parker catalog 3501-e there is listed on the same page push fits for metric tubing as well, for example 12mm tubing, 1/4" BSSP thread.
> _______
> Moving along to the Mettleair fittings which have been discussed before, they are available for 3/8" tubing, 1/4" BSSP threads. The actual internals dip down in size somewhat, as they are set up so as to be tightened internally with a 6mm hex wrench.
> However as a test I set one of the fittings up in a drill press and successfully bored out the bottom of the fitting to just under 3/8". I did not go quite to a full 3/8" as leaving a slight ridge in the fitting prevents the tubing from being inserted all the way through the fitting, which is not necessary.


That would be me with the parker push fittings. The thread definitely needs to be trimmed for waterblocks, the ones I used on the radiators didn't need to be trimmed but they are very long.

Also those packs generally sold online have a questionable photo of the same type but difference size.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I'm a little bummed about some of the bends I made on the recent 3/8" tubing I bought. Every time I bend a 90 I get some crinkling on the inner radius. I did not have this problem with the earlier tubing. Both were bought at the same place (Lowes) and made by Nibco. I ended up going through 4 foot of a 5 foot coil and still got the crinkles in the bend.
> Same bending tool used for both. Strange, I can only assume it has something to do with the tubing itself.
> 
> Lowes has some type "L" in a 10 foot coil I may try, although it's double the price of the UT grade it would be worth it to get rid of the crappy bends.
> 
> Also I bought some type "L" straight 1/2" pipe for a few pieces when my little 1/2" bender gets here, I'm hoping it bends OK (the pipe).
> 
> Starting to wish I had stuck with the chromed pipe, it bent so nice although the chrome had some crazing on the 90's and I can't find it in the 1/2" size for the few pieces I'll need.


I used the UT grade stuff with no issues. It might be your bender? I also straightened the entire roll and let it set for a while. Did you get the crinkling on the interior of the bend? I noticed that happen when I tried to do quick bends. Once I got the hang of it and did slow smooth motions I noticed that I no longer had that issue.

Create looking work guys.

CD69Scorp, love it. Very clean, will look great with some die.

Hammerforged, looked very clean


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sometimes a spray of silicone on the formers can help with creasing.
Also you need to match the benders with the tube,metric only really works with metric,even a small variation between tube and bender can result in creasing.
If there is a mid match,you could try tape to fill out the former to make it fit,electrical tape is good for this,


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> That would be me with the parker push fittings. The thread definitely needs to be trimmed for waterblocks, the ones I used on the radiators didn't need to be trimmed but they are very long.
> 
> Also those packs generally sold online have a questionable photo of the same type but difference size.
> I used the UT grade stuff with no issues. It might be your bender? I also straightened the entire roll and let it set for a while. Did you get the crinkling on the interior of the bend? I noticed that happen when I tried to do quick bends. Once I got the hang of it and did slow smooth motions I noticed that I no longer had that issue.
> 
> Create looking work guys.
> 
> CD69Scorp, love it. Very clean, will look great with some die.
> 
> Hammerforged, looked very clean


The first batch I got bent just fine. I later got another 5 ft coil and yeah, I had the crinkling and it was very likely my fault.
I switched over to annealed tubing and I'm having less hassles. I use a weird combination of spring bender and a non-lever type bender for the 90's and it works out pretty good. (I have arthritis super bad in my hands).
The 1/2" is still a little hard for me to work with but the 3/8" is pretty smooth sailing.
I think I will maybe have one more 1/2" tube to bend and I'll pretty much be through, unless I change something purely for aesthetics.

I did run into one weird problem, and that is a Koolance fitting that the hole in the cap is too small to fit over the tube. Just some production fluke, and I'm debating whether to send it back or not.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I did run into one weird problem, and that is a Koolance fitting that the hole in the cap is too small to fit over the tube. Just some production fluke, and I'm debating whether to send it back or not.


I had the same issue with my 10mm pipe and those fittings. It was pretty disappointing to see them adverting both 10mm and 3/8", when the 10mm pipe can't even get screwed in unless you file a bit near the end. Think I'll email them, because it's not right to say it works with it but you can't even screw the nut on









Picture is horrid, I'll take a look at the camera thread and figure how to work this darn thing.

 Just happy it works after sitting for ~2 weeks idle.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> I had the same issue with my 10mm pipe and those fittings. It was pretty disappointing to see them adverting both 10mm and 3/8", when the 10mm pipe can't even get screwed in unless you file a bit near the end. Think I'll email them, because it's not right to say it works with it but you can't even screw the nut on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture is horrid, I'll take a look at the camera thread and figure how to work this darn thing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just happy it works after sitting for ~2 weeks idle.


Well that is weird. You might want to contact someone. My thought is that these fittings were actually optimized for metric but happen to work with imperial tubing. But if the 10mm pipe won't fit any of the caps (or whatever they are called) then maybe that's not true.

I told PPCs about the one fitting being too small and they passed it on to Koolance. I'm still waiting to hear what Koolance has to say.
I guess if Koolance doesn't pony up a new cap then I've got an $11 paper weight.

I notice that more and more the shops are passing everything on to the vendor to correct. I mean that has worked out OK for me so far but we'll wait and see what happens.
For example if Aqua Computer has a screwup/missing parts etc they are very quick to send replacements out. How Koolance approaches things I have no idea, but the squeaky wheel usually gets the grease so I would not hesitate to contact them, or have the shop you bought them from pass it on.


----------



## kpforce1

Update on some tubing







. had to make brackets to hold them at the back of the card







----edit---- yes, the tubing will get painted white also


----------



## hammerforged

Dang thats pretty slick. Well done.


----------



## turbobnl

Wow it just gets better and better


----------



## mandrix

New fittings available at PPCs. E22 push fits for 10 & 12mm tubing.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=274&main_page=index&utm_source=Performance+PC%27s+Newsletter&utm_campaign=5ccef6481b-Easter_20133_26_2013&utm_medium=email


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Well that is weird. You might want to contact someone. My thought is that these fittings were actually optimized for metric but happen to work with imperial tubing. But if the 10mm pipe won't fit any of the caps (or whatever they are called) then maybe that's not true.
> 
> I told PPCs about the one fitting being too small and they passed it on to Koolance. I'm still waiting to hear what Koolance has to say.
> I guess if Koolance doesn't pony up a new cap then I've got an $11 paper weight.
> 
> I notice that more and more the shops are passing everything on to the vendor to correct. I mean that has worked out OK for me so far but we'll wait and see what happens.
> For example if Aqua Computer has a screwup/missing parts etc they are very quick to send replacements out. How Koolance approaches things I have no idea, but the squeaky wheel usually gets the grease so I would not hesitate to contact them, or have the shop you bought them from pass it on.


I also bought mine from PPCs, I'll be sure to to email Koolance sometime soon about it. I went a little cheaper in those regards, I combined a XSPC male to male adapter and the koolance fittings without the threads. Think it's a $3 savings per fitting. Didn't make a difference though considering they don't work









Gonna work on my the tubing for the folding computer, just hope I have enough push fits on hand! Aquatuning is murder on shipping unless you spend a lot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> New fittings available at PPCs. E22 push fits for 10 & 12mm tubing.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=274&main_page=index&utm_source=Performance+PC%27s+Newsletter&utm_campaign=5ccef6481b-Easter_20133_26_2013&utm_medium=email


Pretty expensive at $8 for the cheapest fitting, but I'm glad to see they are getting something in for pipe.


----------



## mandrix

Where did you find the fittings without the threads? PPCs doesn't stock them and I couldn't find any.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Well that is weird. You might want to contact someone. My thought is that these fittings were actually optimized for metric but happen to work with imperial tubing. But if the 10mm pipe won't fit any of the caps (or whatever they are called) then maybe that's not true.
> 
> I told PPCs about the one fitting being too small and they passed it on to Koolance. I'm still waiting to hear what Koolance has to say.
> I guess if Koolance doesn't pony up a new cap then I've got an $11 paper weight.
> 
> I notice that more and more the shops are passing everything on to the vendor to correct. I mean that has worked out OK for me so far but we'll wait and see what happens.
> For example if Aqua Computer has a screwup/missing parts etc they are very quick to send replacements out. How Koolance approaches things I have no idea, but the squeaky wheel usually gets the grease so I would not hesitate to contact them, or have the shop you bought them from pass it on.
> 
> 
> 
> I also bought mine from PPCs, I'll be sure to to email Koolance sometime soon about it. I went a little cheaper in those regards, I combined a XSPC male to male adapter and the koolance fittings without the threads. Think it's a $3 savings per fitting. Didn't make a difference though considering they don't work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna work on my the tubing for the folding computer, just hope I have enough push fits on hand! Aquatuning is murder on shipping unless you spend a lot.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> New fittings available at PPCs. E22 push fits for 10 & 12mm tubing.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=274&main_page=index&utm_source=Performance+PC%27s+Newsletter&utm_campaign=5ccef6481b-Easter_20133_26_2013&utm_medium=email
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Pretty expensive at $8 for the cheapest fitting, but I'm glad to see they are getting something in for pipe.
Click to expand...

Actually, they're originally for E22 acrylic tubing that PPC is carrying as well. But I guess they could be used for copper too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Where did you find the fittings without the threads? PPCs doesn't stock them and I couldn't find any.


I think he's referring to these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_474&products_id=25572
I almost bought them once upon a time before I noticed it was female threads.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Well that is weird. You might want to contact someone. My thought is that these fittings were actually optimized for metric but happen to work with imperial tubing. But if the 10mm pipe won't fit any of the caps (or whatever they are called) then maybe that's not true.
> 
> I told PPCs about the one fitting being too small and they passed it on to Koolance. I'm still waiting to hear what Koolance has to say.
> I guess if Koolance doesn't pony up a new cap then I've got an $11 paper weight.
> 
> I notice that more and more the shops are passing everything on to the vendor to correct. I mean that has worked out OK for me so far but we'll wait and see what happens.
> For example if Aqua Computer has a screwup/missing parts etc they are very quick to send replacements out. How Koolance approaches things I have no idea, but the squeaky wheel usually gets the grease so I would not hesitate to contact them, or have the shop you bought them from pass it on.
> 
> 
> 
> I also bought mine from PPCs, I'll be sure to to email Koolance sometime soon about it. I went a little cheaper in those regards, I combined a XSPC male to male adapter and the koolance fittings without the threads. Think it's a $3 savings per fitting. Didn't make a difference though considering they don't work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna work on my the tubing for the folding computer, just hope I have enough push fits on hand! Aquatuning is murder on shipping unless you spend a lot.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> New fittings available at PPCs. E22 push fits for 10 & 12mm tubing.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=274&main_page=index&utm_source=Performance+PC%27s+Newsletter&utm_campaign=5ccef6481b-Easter_20133_26_2013&utm_medium=email
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Pretty expensive at $8 for the cheapest fitting, but I'm glad to see they are getting something in for pipe.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *Actually, they're originally for E22 acrylic tubing that PPC is carrying as well. But I guess they could be used for copper too.*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Where did you find the fittings without the threads? PPCs doesn't stock them and I couldn't find any.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think he's referring to these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_474&products_id=25572
> I almost bought them once upon a time before I noticed it was female threads.
Click to expand...

Actually they are rebranded Camozzi fittings and are designed for pneumatic operations,they work with all hard tube as it uses a fingertrap style lock.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Actually they are rebranded Camozzi fittings and are designed for pneumatic operations,they work with all hard tube as it uses a fingertrap style lock.


I love having guys like you around to make corrections. LOL


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Where did you find the fittings without the threads? PPCs doesn't stock them and I couldn't find any.


It's in the link Krusher gave, combine that with this, http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_951&products_id=30111, you end up saving somewhere around $3 per fitting.

I'm going to sell my Koolance/XSPC fittings once I have all my PCs in one piece, not sure when that will be but hopefully soon!


----------



## mandrix

Guys, those threadless Koolance fittings at PPCs are discontinued. See the D at the end of the part number? I asked them a week ago when they were going to get more and that's what they told me.
Also Koolance doesn't list them anymore, that I could find.


----------



## Krusher33

Ya but they're still in stock apparently?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Ya but they're still in stock apparently?


Have you tried to buy any lately? They may be in stock somewhere, though I couldn't find any.
If you try to buy more than 1 at PPCs then it comes up as backordered. But in reality they won't be stocking any more, is what I was told.
But I have all the 3/8" fittings I need, I'm through with the 3/8" sections and working on the 1/2" now.


----------



## Krusher33

Oooh... I've only added 1 to see if it's in stock.


----------



## Michalius

*PSA for the US/NA pipe benders:*

The Phobya 10mm push fittings are back in stock at PPC's

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1200&products_id=33853

Just ordered 20.


----------



## mandrix

Funny how they list those push fits under barbed fittings.

Anyway I'm through with my tubing for now. I ended up with three 1/2" lines and four 3/8".


----------



## Krusher33

I wonder how long they will stay in stock this time, lol


----------



## PepeLapiu

Holly cow! I just got my 10mm pipes and they are A LOT smaller than what I imagined. Here it is next to a quarter and a 3/4" tube with Monsoon fitting for reference.








I shoulda got the 12mm ones instead but I just don't like the available fittings for 12mm pipes.

Also, I used the Ridgid 410M bender for that bend and it turned out perfect on the first try, no crinckling.

Sorry for the poor phone picture. I never was much of a picture taking guy.

Anyway, I got these pipes for around $2.50 per foot at CopperTubingSales.com
They only use UPS so if you are ordering from Canada, make sure to ask them to label it as a gift or as a sample. Otherwise the crooks at UPS will charge you an other $30 of 'brokerage fees' on top of the $25 shipping quote.

Cheers


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Holly cow! I just got my 10mm pipes and they are A LOT smaller than what I imagined. Here it is next to a quarter and a 3/4" tube with Monsoon fitting for reference.
> *snip*
> I shoulda got the 12mm ones instead but I just don't like the available fittings for 12mm pipes.
> 
> *snip*


EXACTLY how I felt when I compared 3/8' with 1/2" at Home Depot. I know 3/8" is 9.5mm, but still... tiny!


----------



## PepeLapiu

Yeah, I was worried about the restriction level of these pipes, so I did a little experiment.

I put one end of a 4 ft piece in the sink with the.other end 3 ft below in a jar. I syphoned it and let it flow for 1 minute, with gravity alone providing the flow.

I was able to collect almost 2 gallons (7 liters) in one minute. So that's pretty good considering only gravity was pumping it. I think I'll be just fine. And it will really look different and spacious in the case.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Yeah, I was worried about the restriction level of these pipes, so I did a little experiment.
> 
> I put one end of a 4 ft piece in the sink with the.other end 3 ft below in a jar. I syphoned it and let it flow for 1 minute, with gravity alone providing the flow.
> 
> I was able to collect almost 2 gallons (7 liters) in one minute. So that's pretty good considering only gravity was pumping it. I think I'll be just fine. And it will really look different and spacious in the case.


but that's a bit different since there isn't back pressure, in a loop it will have back pressure

though honestly i doubt enough to really be a factor, restriction of the blocks would be the main factor for lowering flow rate


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah nearly every WC guru is saying that the blocks will give much more pressure drop than smaller tubes. So I was like "ok, I'll go get me some 3/8" inch". I get to Home Depot and just... "it's so tiny!"


----------



## PepeLapiu

Yup, it is tiny but I really don't think it will be an issue based on my little sink experinent of almost 2 gpm with gravity feed only.
I will also be doubling up my piping with these fittings.
I am officially claiming I do this for better flow/restriction but I just think double pipes will look cool. And at 4.50$ they still come under just about any soft tube compression fittings I could find.


----------



## Krusher33

I'm not sure I can figure out on my own how double piping would work. I mean... how do you be sure flow is going evenly through both pipes?


----------



## PepeLapiu

It wont matter if the flow is not even on both pipes because they are both going to and from the same places as a single tube would. For example, instead of running a single tube from the pump to the rad, I just hook up a fitting like I linked on both the pump and the rad. It doubles up the pipes but both pipes are going the same place. I don't know if this makes sense.

Kinda like drinking a coke with two straws instead of one. You can drink faster this way.

Originally, I was concerned with the pressure drop of such small pipes. But I don't think that is an issue any more. Now I am doubling up my pipes for looks more than for flow.

But if the size of the 10mm pipes worry you, you can double up on them too. The 1/2" ID tubes have an opening of 113mm square. The 3/8" ID tubes have an opening of 71mm square.

So at 8mm ID the 10mm pipes doubled up have an opening of 101mm square. That falls between the 1/2" and 3/8" tubes, and almost as good as the 1/2" tubes.


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah, the pressure don't worry me any more. They'are just... tiny.


----------



## rotary7

And you have to remember that pipping wont give you those kinking problems with normal tubing does,


----------



## LuckyDuck69

Okay boys and girls. I've decided to use the E22 Extruded Acrylic Tubing on the new TJ11 build. This is the info I've gathered so far for those of us in the States. Please let me know your thoughts on the push fittings if you feel I've chosen the wrong ones.

FOR 10MM

TUBING:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37276

FITTINGS:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_345&products_id=37274
or
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_345&products_id=37275

And here:
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p5346_10mm-G1-4-Plug----nickel-plated.html
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html

FOR 12MM

TUBING:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1227&products_id=37277

FITTINGS:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_345&products_id=37272

And here:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_345&products_id=37273


----------



## oats2012

*I wrote the following to try and help with some of the theoretical considerations going into pipe flow and assist in loop configs here for people. I bow down to B-negatives knowledge of realworld materials and the plumbing practice (I claim no knowledge in this area and he is awesome!) What I have written more is to address theory and maybe clear up reasoning behind a decision you want to make about a loop, how many bends, sections, etc.

My credentials:
1. Ocean engineer from #1 program in the United states (top 10 engineering school for all other programs)
2. I've had 4 classes directly addressing closed and open fluid flow, and all other classes involved fluids in some way (3.45/4 gpa)
3. Will be working for EMAS AMC as Subsea pipeline systems engineer starting in June 2013

I tell you this not to brag or any such thing, simply to validate the things I have written were done by someone not completely speaking from thin air and no background*

Hey guys love the thread but just some insights from an ocean engineer....

1. pipe bends will add to pipe restriction (but not by much). The entrance and exit points for pipe sections add the most restrictions for flow. The math is done with coeffieceints and a bend gets around .15 while and entrance and exit is around a 1 in restriction coefficients math when added up to make pressure calculations. THEREFORE when piping keep the sections/segments (which transaltes to exits/entrances) of pipe to a minimum but realistically make as many bends as you need it won't matter unless changing direction 90 degrees or more, or having an obscene amount of bends. almost 7 bends = one exit/entrance point

2. placing double pipes (tandem) will not offer any increased amount of fluid flow if you use those "y" fittings. the reason for this being that the flow rate Q will be choked down at the consolidation point which is those fittings. if you can have two pressured tubes run from something like say a res to another res then the flow rate will be more or dual pumps into one y fitting, but if you have to consolidate down to one tube or fitting at some point then NO your flow rate or "amount of fluid moved per unit of time" in something like liters per minute or gpm will not be increased at all beyond the flow rate through the single tubed sections.

SO any one who wants to do this for aesthetics, rock on it will look sick!







BUT you will get ZERO performance upgrade or higher flow to components because obviously to flow through a pc block there's only one channel right? gpu blocks are the same, so unless its a multiple input/ output block with multiple channels then you will see no gains and will see resistance (pump head) increase due to multiple restrictions introduced into the loop

the only way this will help is because there is more fluid in the system, which will give you more thermal overhead initially but once all the fluid is heated up to the same levels it wont matter much and the difference might become negligible (this is why WC has not evolved to include massive reservoirs, once the system is at a thermal equilibrium it doesn't matter how much fluid is in it, its closed, the only thing taking away heat is the dissipation in the radiators)

in addition when thinking about larger diameter tubes anticipating more flow. The flow you will get in your loop will never exceed the pumps movement amounts (which i figure everyone knows) but to clarify larger od will move fluid slower than smaller od in relation to the od for the in/out at the pumps.

ie: if the pump has 10 gpm (made up number) with od out of 1/2" then you increase the od of the pipe in the loop to 3/4" the flow rate at any point in the 3/4 tube will not be the same speed as leaving the 10 gpm pump and for every point that the flow profile diameter (pipe diameter gets larger or smaller it will cause restriction to flow (no matter bigger or smaller) think of it like getting smaller the pump must work harder to move same amount of water through the pipe and larger causes the pipe to require more fluid volume per inch to fill and causes more work for the pump at the interface change.

let me be clear IF the pump is rated at 10 gpm, then it will deliver 10 gpm....but it is only moving that parcel of water and nothing more or less if set at that speed. all you are doing with larger od is keeping the speed at a given point in a loop slower because the fluid parcel is spread over a larger diameter as it moves (per unit force being put out by the pump its only going to move so much volume so far and larger od makes the volume per inch larger and more energy needed to move the same distance hence slower.... smaller od is like a rocket engine it will move faster through a pipe due to the same principle in reverse.

roughness factor of copper vs. acrylic vs. stainless etc. should not really matter for loops this small in a pc to where it really would govern the pipe choice (most pc WC pumps are overkill and won't be affected by a slightly more ore less rough pipe material

AND difference between smaller and larger diameter pipes why or why not? if you have a larger spread of a loop where you need speed to keep momentum to make it to everything and lots of restrictions id say go smaller.....if you have a really heavy duty loop (lots of things needing heat disipation) then I'd say go for more OD because the slower moving loop will absorb more heat as it moves and take it away from the components (this should be done withing reason though, too slow is obviously bad as it wont dissipate fast enough.

WC is 100% about a balance between contact surface area of water per a unit of time ( how long it is in contact) which is directly related to the speed of a loop and amount of water moved. So a super fast loop will not do much for you, or a super slow loop will not do well either. variable pumps will help with this balance but another way of slowing or speeding a loop involves the choice of OD of your pipes.

VERTICAL distances also matter, I won't go into it but hydro-statically (weight of water) this translates directly into pump head which is what will affect your loop the most as it is what the pump is fighting to overcome.

Is this important at all? depends

the small variations in OD relatively (3/8-3/4") and small variations of loop length ( 6ft-10ft) these concepts obviously apply and they are scalable (they work the same at massive pipe levels or small. but given the over engineering that goes into enthusiast WC pumps most use on OCN....it may or may not be of interest to make all these considerations. I'd say realistically it may only be the difference between 3-5C or more Conservatively 2-3C if you make the right optimizations. But for anyone looking to push machines to the absolute limits or find that balance of fan noise they making these choices could make the difference for you...

I wrote this to try and HELP! not to hurt any ones feelings or degrade your decisions! I think everyone's work here is great and I hope to join the club sometime this year when i get a chance and the time. Knowledge is power so I'm just trying to spread the love a bit and see if it helps anyone here.

If you read the whole thing then cheers! and hope you found it worth the read and relevant


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oats2012*
> 
> *I wrote the following to try and help with some of the theoretical considerations going into pipe flow and assist in loop configs here for people. I bow down to B-negatives knowledge of realworld materials and the plumbing practice (I claim no knowledge in this area and he is awesome!) What I have written more is to address theory and maybe clear up reasoning behind a decision you want to make about a loop, how many bends, sections, etc.
> 
> My credentials:
> 1. Ocean engineer from #1 program in the United states (top 10 engineering school for all other programs)
> 2. I've had 4 classes directly addressing closed and open fluid flow (3.4/4 gpa)
> 3. Will be working for EMAS AMC as Subsea pipeline systems engineer starting in June 2013
> 
> I tell you this not to brag or any such thing, simply to validate the things I have written were done by someone not completely speaking from thin air and no background*
> 
> Hey guys love the thread but just some insights from an ocean engineer....
> 
> 1. pipe bends will add to pipe restriction (but not by much). The entrance and exit points for pipe sections add the most restrictions for flow. The math is done with coeffieceints and a bend gets around .15 while and entrance and exit is around a 1 in restriction coefficients math when added up to make pressure calculations. THEREFORE when piping keep the sections/segments (which transaltes to exits/entrances) of pipe to a minimum but realistically make as many bends as you need it won't matter unless changing direction 90 degrees or more, or having an obscene amount of bends. almost 7 bends = one exit/entrance point
> 
> *2. placing double pipes (tandem) will not offer any increased amount of fluid flow if you use those "y" fittings. the reason for this being that the flow rate Q will be choked down at the consolidation point which is those fittings. if you can have two pressured tubes run from something like say a res to another res then the flow rate will be more or dual pumps into one y fitting, but if you have to consolidate down to one tube or fitting at some point then NO your flow rate or "amount of fluid moved per unit of time" in something like liters per minute or gpm will not be increased at all beyond the flow rate through the single tubed sections.
> *
> 
> SO any one who wants to do this for aesthetics, rock on it will look sick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT you will get ZERO performance upgrade or higher flow to components because obviously to flow through a pc block there's only one channel right? gpu blocks are the same, so unless its a multiple input/ output block with multiple channels then you will see no gains and will see resistance (pump head) increase due to multiple restrictions introduced into the loop
> 
> in addition when thinking about larger diameter tubes anticipating more flow. The flow you will get in your loop will never exceed the pumps movement amounts (which i figure everyone knows) but to clarify larger od will move fluid slower than smaller od in relation to the od for the in/out at the pumps.
> 
> ie: if the pump has 10 gpm (made up number) with od out of 1/2" then you increase the od of the pipe in the loop to 3/4" the flow rate at any point in the 3/4 tube will not be the same speed as leaving the 10 gpm pump and for every point that the flow profile diameter (pipe diameter gets larger or smaller it will cause restriction to flow (no matter bigger or smaller) think of it like getting smaller the pump must work harder to move same amount of water through the pipe and larger causes the pipe to require more fluid volume per inch to fill and causes more work for the pump at the interface change.
> 
> let me be clear IF the pump is rated at 10 gpm, then it will deliver 10 gpm....but it is only moving that parcel of water and nothing more or less if set at that speed. all you are doing with larger od is keeping the speed at a given point in a loop slower because the fluid parcel is spread over a larger diameter as it moves (per unit force being put out by the pump its only going to move so much volume so far and larger od makes the volume per inch larger and more energy needed to move the same distance hence slower.... smaller od is like a rocket engine it will move faster through a pipe due to the same principle in reverse.
> 
> roughness factor of copper vs. acrylic vs. stainless etc. should not really matter for loops this small in a pc to where it really would govern the pipe choice (most pc WC pumps are overkill and won't be affected by a slightly more ore less rough pipe material
> 
> AND difference between smaller and larger diameter pipes why or why not? if you have a larger spread of a loop where you need speed to keep momentum to make it to everything and lots of restrictions id say go smaller.....if you have a really heavy duty loop (lots of things needing heat disipation) then I'd say go for more OD because the slower moving loop will absorb more heat as it moves and take it away from the components (this should be done withing reason though, too slow is obviously bad as it wont dissipate fast enough.


Very true,you can only flow volumetrically as much as your narrowest restriction.

The math as to why...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuity_equation#Fluid_dynamics

There is a difference in the performance of a 'knuckle' 90 found in most fittings and a 90 tube bend,the 90 bends in tube dont add any real restriction but the knuckles do.
Remember all this example has to do is exhaust a gas,When fitting boiler flues,every knuckle 90 adds a 1m to the tube length...when you only have 3-4 meters to play with anyway. Sweeping bends work with inertia,knuckles dont


----------



## mandrix

Not sure I follow why water moving slower would necessarily pick up more heat. I thought the contact area of the blocks would have more to do with heat dissipation.
I can certainly understand heat saturation, (water moving too slow) and I understand beyond a point more flow is not going to yield better cooling.
But is it really possible that higher flow can fail to absorb heat as efficiently as a lower flow?

I have more flow than I need, simply for redundancy, and I certainly have overkill on radiator, but I don't see higher flow rates impacting heat dissipation negatively in my loop.

No argument here, enlighten me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Higher flow doesnt impact negatively,it just ceases to increase significantly.


----------



## Krusher33

It's why I enjoy my variable pump.


----------



## PepeLapiu

I think higher flow is desirable. I don't think that the flow can ever be too fast. But the problem is the pumps. As the flow increases, you also increase the pump's heat output and that heat gets dumped into the loop, especially with a D5 pump.
And soon, the small performance increase from the flow will be voided by the pump's heat dump.

But if you could somehow have no heat dump from the pump, then I don't think the flow would ever be too much.

Think of it this way, a cold day will feel a lot colder if it's windy. Increase the wind (air flow) and you increase the heat absorbtion of the air. Same with water.


----------



## Hotluch

I recently bought the black nickel aquatuning black nickel fittings. I was wondering if these fittings will work with the Acrylic Tubing?


----------



## oats2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Higher flow doesnt impact negatively,it just ceases to increase significantly.


^this will be the governing case and principle for stuff of the scale of a pc loop, see below for reasoning (it can be too fast but those flow speeds will be hard to reach if the loop was done in a sane manner lol)

Flow being too fast or slow was meant as "within reason" guys, its all about a BALANCE and yes you can have it too fast or too slow. The flow speed does affect the rate at which heat is transferred from the block to the water. A block may have massive surface area to absorb heat, but if the water channel going through it is singular and tiny then the interactive area is small and the dissipation into the water will be bad. This is why some blocks when disassembled have a square grid of small channels that the water is forced through (it increases the surface contact area of water to the block.

Is it more important to have more surface area vs. finding a flow speed balance? YES this is why block selection is something people scrutinize over for much longer periods of time. The point was all things need to be considered because they play separate roles. how much weight you assign each factor in the pursuit of the perfect matching balance for you, is up to you









If your tube is too small (which isn't such an issue here) but with a very strong pump you may get the fluid moving so fast you cause cavitation---->turbulence in the water causing air to come out of solution in the water if you have enough pressure in the line to hit the water's vapor pressure. Practically this can be as small an issue as having your loop be noisy, or as bad as having it degrade your pumps impeller over time and reduce its function ( ie if you pit the impeller from excess turbulence in the loop it will always be noisy due to reduced efficiency even if you reduce the speeds later)


----------



## oats2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I think higher flow is desirable. I don't think that the flow can ever be too fast. But the problem is the pumps. As the flow increases, you also increase the pump's heat output and that heat gets dumped into the loop, especially with a D5 pump.
> And soon, the small performance increase from the flow will be voided by the pump's heat dump.
> 
> But if you could somehow have no heat dump from the pump, then I don't think the flow would ever be too much.
> 
> Think of it this way, a cold day will feel a lot colder if it's windy. Increase the wind (air flow) and you increase the heat absorption of the air. Same with water.


this is very true about heat dump balance, and a good example of wind chill factor effect. the flow can be too fast for one simple concept though.... boundary layer within the pipes wall. if moving to fast there will be a very fast moving central core of fluid in the pipe and a boundry layer (which is always present) at the pipe wall that will grow to be large enough to where the difference between the two speeds is so high that the heat interchange is affected. The boundry layer has almost zero motion (all the time) but the middle will have a large motion comparatively.

But in lower flow states the boundary layer is small (only a few molecules thick) so the fast flow of the core knocks out and replaces these molecules quickly and thus the heat is exchanged fast. In high flow states the gradient between he two becomes large and the boundary layer grows large ( think of it this way its inertia, the faster the middle wants to go the more the particles involved will want to be lazy and stay as still as they can and resist the motion, so they try to form a larger motionless boundary layer.....other factors of friction etc are involved in the forming process but this is the basic premise)

your windy day example was a good one but is what is known as "open channel flow" and doesn't directly apply to closed channel flow. in that scenario you have an unlimited supply of fresh fluid flowing past a point to absorb heat which doesn't have to hit equilibrium in a closed setting.

a closed setting think about it like blood pumping (not the best example but cant think of a better one). At lower pump rates and flow rates the heart is most efficient thus it pumps and moves slowly to try and exchange the oxygen. when you are running the oxygen needed is increased, but the heat beat and flow rate takes massive jumps that are not necessarily what is needed to transfer the needed oxygen. its a less efficient state of exchange because the blood is flowing maybe too fast for the cells to pick up the oxygen. The body thinks pumping faster is the answer so it does but in reality the increase in speed doesn't need to be nearly as high. case in point is pro athletes, there bodies run at max efficiency. Other factors like muscle mass etc are involved but even at high stress loads their heart rates don't go as high as many average joes will. this is because their bodies fine tuned the balance of flow rate to exchange rate in the closed circulatory system.

thats not the prime example because biology is more complex than basic thermo but driving principles apply.

The end result though? yes you can have flow that is too high, will it be attainable in a system the size of a pc? probably not unless you have dual d5 feeding into a y joint with a 1/4" ID constriction (ie basically something nobody sane would try because the pressure would be nuts)

you're much better off picking a good block and a decent pump, tube size is at your discretion for aesthetics. I just wanted to address principles, but everyone's choices can be what they want with the info







because like i said I've yet to begin my pipe bending adventure lol









*EDIT: I'm done mega posting, not trying high jack or derail so the info is here if you want now. I'm content to just lurk around for pics and other practical info now







*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You are talking about laminar flow?
It only really applies to rads for our purposes,tubing is not the dissipation point,you are right in saying its an undesirable characteristic tho....

or use....


----------



## oats2012

I ranted for so long i don't know what I'm trying to talk about anymore lol. Yeah laminar flow is needed throughout, but mainly this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation. turbulence in the pipes leaving at the pump before it gets to other parts of the loop (such as the radiator) is what i see as a POTENTIAL issue. This is what I'd bet money on is the reason that people depending on pump choice find it to be super noisy

if a loop is well bled of air (its much harder to cavitate when the air has to truly be taken out of solution with the water), it shouldn't be an issue because our flow speeds aren't (or shouldnt) be high enough to cause it I'd think (but im not familair with the flow rates of popular pc pumps) but i bet if you crank a hefty pump to full with a small loop with pipe diameter that is small it could be done pretty easily

EDIT: I wasn't trying to say the tubes do the dissipating, if it came out that way my apologies lol


----------



## mandrix

I'm now through with my copper pipes. I want to send a big thanks to B NEG for starting this post and sharing his expertise on a subject I'd long been interested in.
Also a shout out to all the other OCN members who shared their investigation, work, and success in all things hard tubing related.

No doubt over time I'll be modding my setup, because I just like to tinker and try to get better at things.


----------



## Krusher33

I can't get over how, in pictures, it doesn't look very much difference between 3/8" and 1/2" but when I see them in person, there's a big difference to me.


----------



## Drierwor

Just have to say wow amazing info there oats2012 combine your information and B Negatives guide on binding pipe and we can all have superb watercooling builds. +Rep to both of you guys.









B,

For some reason I thought I had already repped you before, but apparently I must have been day dreaming


----------



## superericla

I've updated my build with the MettleAir 3/8" OD fittings and some 3/8" OD copper "utility" pipe from Home Depot with no leaks so far. The fitting threads are only a touch (~1cm) longer than my XSPC extension fittings, yet won't work with 45 or 90 degree fittings that I have.


----------



## Seredin

That seems like an awesome find, superericla.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I've updated my build with the MettleAir 3/8" OD fittings and some 3/8" OD copper "utility" pipe from Home Depot with no leaks so far. The fitting threads are only a touch (~1cm) longer than my XSPC extension fittings, yet won't work with 45 or 90 degree fittings that I have.


Thanks for posting your success with the Mettleair fittings.

The base of the fittings internally are made so as to be tightened with a 6mm hex wrench, which means of course the opening is a bit smaller than the ID of the tubing.
For a test I set one of the fittings up in a vise and bored the bottom of the fitting out with a 3/8" bit, leaving a little shoulder as a stop for the tubing. This should increase the flow a little bit over the hex 6mm opening.
Whether or not it's worth it is up to you of course. Bottom one is stock fitting.


----------



## superericla

I've noticed no flow or performance degradation switching to these fittings, so I see no need to remove the hex area so far. It's been around five days so far with no leaking, so the fittings are definitely water cooling safe.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> The base of the fittings internally are made so as to be tightened with a 6mm hex wrench, which means of course the opening is a bit smaller than the ID of the tubing.
> For a test I set one of the fittings up in a vise and bored the bottom of the fitting out with a 3/8" bit, leaving a little shoulder as a stop for the tubing. This should increase the flow a little bit over the hex 6mm opening.
> Whether or not it's worth it is up to you of course. Bottom one is stock fitting.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: picture


I'm confused. Why does it have the hex on the inside? Does the outside not tighten it to block or whatever?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I'm confused. Why does it have the hex on the inside? Does the outside not tighten it to block or whatever?


Yeah, that's just the way some industrial type fittings are made.


----------



## Hotluch

Hey im trying to figure out which tubing to get, and was wonder if the aquatuning black nickel fittings will work with acrylic tubing? I tried to see if someone posted that these will work, but i couldn't find anything. My first wc loop just want to do it right.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hotluch*
> 
> Hey im trying to figure out which tubing to get, and was wonder if the aquatuning black nickel fittings will work with acrylic tubing? I tried to see if someone posted that these will work, but i couldn't find anything. My first wc loop just want to do it right.


They will work just fine with acrylic.


----------



## T S D

Awesome read, thanks.







took me a while but I finally read all the posts. I've been planning on a copper loop and now I'm thinking about going acrylic. Either way this thread is great. Lots of useful info.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I'm confused. Why does it have the hex on the inside? Does the outside not tighten it to block or whatever?


I beleive if you use a fitting like this one, with an interior hex, you can tighten it using a hex key and then pop in your tube. Then you'll have a super clean look or if your in a tight spot and can't get a wrench in there. My 2 cent, wait make that a nickle, we just got rid of our pennies! This is SMC btw, i just googled it. The trick is finding the right size with the right colour.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Damn it!!
> But today McMaster just replied to my order saying they will not ship to Canada.


I have no problems ordering from McMaster-Carr and I live outside of Ottawa, Canada. Then again I order for the company I work for so maybe because it's a business.


----------



## LuckyDuck69

Chrome Plating in Kentucky

I am in no way affiliated with this company but I can vouch that they do good work. If you are in the Midwest and looking for a place that will chrome plate your copper tubing.. hit these guys up.

Brown's Plating


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *T S D*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I'm confused. Why does it have the hex on the inside? Does the outside not tighten it to block or whatever?
> 
> 
> 
> I beleive if you use a fitting like this one, with an interior hex, you can tighten it using a hex key and then pop in your tube. Then you'll have a super clean look or if your in a tight spot and can't get a wrench in there. My 2 cent, wait make that a nickle, we just got rid of our pennies! This is SMC btw, i just googled it. The trick is finding the right size with the right colour.
Click to expand...

I can understand for a fitting like that one. But that other one, you can tighten from the outside.


----------



## LuckyDuck69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I can understand for a fitting like that one. But that other one, you can tighten from the outside.


I think you're getting the function confused. "Tightening" is referring to screwing the fitting into the block. The pipe/tube is literally just pushed in.

I'm sure someone will correct if I'm wrong. But that's my understanding of it. Also, I'm pretty sure tightening it down isn't that big of a concern. Finger tight is all you really need on a PC loop. Like a regular compression fitting.


----------



## T S D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I can understand for a fitting like that one. But that other one, you can tighten from the outside.


Maybe they're just giving one the option to tighten from the inside or outside. Not sure of the logic. But then again if your in a tight spot inside would help. I can see it restricting the flow a little because of it though. I would prefer a fitting with the largest inside diameter as possible.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyDuck69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I can understand for a fitting like that one. But that other one, you can tighten from the outside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you're getting the function confused. "Tightening" is referring to screwing the fitting into the block. The pipe/tube is literally just pushed in.
> 
> I'm sure someone will correct if I'm wrong. But that's my understanding of it. Also, I'm pretty sure tightening it down isn't that big of a concern. Finger tight is all you really need on a PC loop. Like a regular compression fitting.
Click to expand...

No. Talking about the fitting that has Hex on outside AND inside. Not talking about the tubing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *T S D*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I can understand for a fitting like that one. But that other one, you can tighten from the outside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe they're just giving one the option to tighten from the inside or outside. Not sure of the logic. But then again if your in a tight spot inside would help. I can see it restricting the flow a little because of it though. I would prefer a fitting with the largest inside diameter as possible.
Click to expand...

I suppose. I'm glad Mandrix showed a pic of that. It certainly has changed my mind about getting them.


----------



## mandrix

The fittings with the internal hex will cause some restriction, sure, but I'd bet for a lot of loops it's not a deal killer.
If you have access to a small drill press the fittings can easily be opened up. I realize a lot of people will not want to do that, but it's just another option available.

Plus, the Mettleair fittings seem well made and are cheap enough even for those on a very tight budget.


----------



## Krusher33

I just don't have a drill press. I may consider it. I'm not ready yet anyways.


----------



## T S D

For those interested...

I bought some UV-Resistant Extruded Acrylic Round Tube from McMaster-Carr to play with. It was pretty cheap. $3.69 for the thin walled and $6.23 for the thicker wall 6'-0" long. Definately won't be enough flow with the thicker version.

8532K13 UV-Resistant Extruded Acrylic Round Tube, 1/2" OD, 3/8" ID, 6' Length, Clear $3.69
8532K12 UV-Resistant Extruded Acrylic Round Tube, 1/2" OD, 1/4" ID, 6' Length, Clear $6.23


I also found the block I want, I just need to decide what color. Found it in another thread on block comparisons and someone had a custom copper one made. MIPS ICEFORCE HF Socket 1155 / 1156 / 1366 Nickel POM


If I go with the silver then it'll probably be acrylic and copper tube with the copper block. I think either will go nicely with the Sabertoooth Z77

Decisions dicisions


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *T S D*
> 
> For those interested...
> 
> I bought some UV-Resistant Extruded Acrylic Round Tube from McMaster-Carr to play with. It was pretty cheap. $3.69 for the thin walled and $6.23 for the thicker wall 6'-0" long. Definately won't be enough flow with the thicker version.
> 
> 8532K13 UV-Resistant Extruded Acrylic Round Tube, 1/2" OD, 3/8" ID, 6' Length, Clear $3.69
> 8532K12 UV-Resistant Extruded Acrylic Round Tube, 1/2" OD, 1/4" ID, 6' Length, Clear $6.23
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also found the block I want, I just need to decide what color. Found it in another thread on block comparisons and someone had a custom copper one made. MIPS ICEFORCE HF Socket 1155 / 1156 / 1366 Nickel POM
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I go with the silver then it'll probably be acrylic and copper tube with the copper block. I think either will go nicely with the Sabertoooth Z77
> 
> Decisions dicisions


That would be cpachris's copper MIPs Iceforce he had custom plated. He mentioned it was really hard to convince MIPs to copper plate him a block.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Boweezie

Yeah I bought some 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID acrylic tubing from US Plastics for about the same price. Main issue is obviously the OD is too big for the Bitspower multi-link adapters. The best way to cut the OD down is by filing them down. I tried to sand them with my dremel, but I could not get a nice consistent round sanding of the tube.


----------



## Seredin

Everything goes with the Sabertooth Z77.

Am I missing another board with similar aesthetics? It can't be the only one...
I would do questionable things to an innocent child for a mATX board with those thermal covers


----------



## superericla

I found some better pipe to use from Home Depot for my build. It's meant for refrigeration and comes in a coil, but it works perfectly with the fittings with no leaks and the bends are wrinkle-free.


----------



## Michalius

I've got a question for the pros.

How do you accurately measure angles or total length when you have two end points on different planes?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I've got a question for the pros.
> 
> How do you accurately measure angles or total length when you have two end points on different planes?


If its a convoluted route and you want a rough idea of length then consider tracing the route with pipecleaners.
I normally use a small length of tube on the fitting im aiming for as a guide point then aim to mate on it,hard to explain so I will do a step by step guide with the method of obtaining 45 degree angles as well as 90s already covered.


----------



## superericla

I mostly just over-estimate the length needed, then bend and cut accordingly. I'm no pro though.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> Everything goes with the Sabertooth Z77.
> 
> Am I missing another board with similar aesthetics? It can't be the only one...
> I would do questionable things to an innocent child for a mATX board with those thermal covers


----------



## T S D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> That would be cpachris's copper MIPs Iceforce he had custom plated. He mentioned it was really hard to convince MIPs to copper plate him a block.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


I figured as much.







It looks sweet though. To speed things along I'll probably go with the silver one then with the clear tubing. I did see some nice fittings the were basically a tee and you could insert an led in one end. Put in some fluorescent liquid to make'er glow. I just have to find them again.


----------



## T S D

Ha found them. Monsoon Light Port 90 deg. I need to start bookmarking this stuff!


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *T S D*
> 
> Ha found them. Monsoon Light Port 90 deg. I need to start bookmarking this stuff!


Don't get your hopes up too high. I got a pair of Monsoon light ports to test for myself and I was not impressed with the results. I was going to have all my tubes lit up with those fittings but the results were too poor so I went an other way .....all copper pipes.

Stren on here diid a review of those light ports with pictures, look it up.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If its a convoluted route and you want a rough idea of length then consider tracing the route with pipecleaners.
> I normally use a small length of tube on the fitting im aiming for as a guide point then aim to mate on it,hard to explain so I will do a step by step guide with the method of obtaining 45 degree angles as well as 90s already covered.


I think I get what you are saying. Use a piece of pipe to extend the line across the axis, as it were. Then you can properly measure the bend to get it to that axis, after which it's a piece of cake to angle it back towards the other fitting. Perfect.


----------



## Solonowarion

Maybe a silly question but would anyone suggest this as a good option?

I live in canada so would prefer to not order from aqua tuning. I believe the bitspower multi link fittings would work but I like the security in these longer push fittings.

E-22
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1227&products_id=37276

Phobya Push
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1200&products_id=33853


----------



## PepeLapiu

Why would you not want to order from Aquatuning? They have a store in.the US and PPC, where you want to order, is also in the US.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Why would you not want to order from Aquatuning? They have a store in.the US and PPC, where you want to order, is also in the US.


My bad then! I though aquatuning was UK only. I have a mail box in the US that I use so thats good to know. Prefer the push fitting from A T of the phobya ones?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *T S D*
> 
> Ha found them. Monsoon Light Port 90 deg. I need to start bookmarking this stuff!


The lightport's are cool in shorter runs of tube or if you are using a pastel type coolant or have lots of bubbles lol. See pictures below:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *T S D*
> 
> Ha found them. Monsoon Light Port 90 deg. I need to start bookmarking this stuff!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't get your hopes up too high. I got a pair of Monsoon light ports to test for myself and I was not impressed with the results. I was going to have all my tubes lit up with those fittings but the results were too poor so I went an other way .....all copper pipes.
> 
> Stren on here diid a review of those light ports with pictures, look it up.
Click to expand...

+1
I heard the same thing,cool idea but doesnt really work in practice


----------



## kpforce1

I got the LAST bit of fittings/connectors I suppose I will be needing in my Force1 rig.... i think anyway lol. I also got the last Koolance female G1/4 to pipe adapter they had just because they only had one friggin left







(last fitting on the right side). I ended up with 18 more of the Koolance pipe fittings... don't ask lol


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> I got the LAST bit of fittings/connectors I suppose I will be needing in my Force1 rig.... i think anyway lol. I also got the last Koolance female G1/4 to pipe adapter they had just because they only had one friggin left
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (last fitting on the right side). I ended up with 18 more of the Koolance pipe fittings... don't ask lol


Thats a lot of fittings! You are giving me the push I need to start acrylic. How are those koolance pipe fittings 5 times more expensive than the phobya push fittings? Are they more secure? I liek the look of these more. I have some Koolance QDC's and love the quality of them.


----------



## T S D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> +1
> I heard the same thing,cool idea but doesnt really work in practice


That's so disappointing


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *T S D*
> 
> That's so disappointing


You could pull it off if your tubing lenghts are all straight and less than 18" long with light ports at both ends in a rather dark spot. Some reported better results by lightly sanding their tubing, so that the light bounces around inside the tubes. Also, if you have dies in there, it would have to be on the light side, too dense the die and that will prevent the LED to reach far into the tube.


----------



## mandrix

After noticing PPC's is sold out of some of the pipe ferrules, I just wanted to remind you guys in the US using the Koolance pipe fittings that you can buy extra ferrules at Lowes back in the plumbing department.
The 3/8" pipe ferrules are A-102 and the 1/2" ferrules are A-202.

Strangely enough they come 3 to a pack for about a $1.70'ish but they work just fine.

I use some Dow-Corning high vacuum grease on the ferrules when tightening them and it makes it go a little smoother.
(but I'm sure most won't have this, you can substitute something else)


----------



## T S D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> You could pull it off if your tubing lenghts are all straight and less than 18" long with light ports at both ends in a rather dark spot. Some reported better results by lightly sanding their tubing, so that the light bounces around inside the tubes. Also, if you have dies in there, it would have to be on the light side, too dense the die and that will prevent the LED to reach far into the tube.


Thanks I'll probably still give'er a try. Is there any glow in the dies? I could go to the dollar store and by some of those wrist bands and break them open, but I'm not sure what that stuff is made of and would probably ruin my loop.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *T S D*
> 
> Thanks I'll probably still give'er a try. Is there any glow in the dies? I could go to the dollar store and by some of those wrist bands and break them open, but I'm not sure what that stuff is made of and would probably ruin my loop.


If you want glowing coolant with hard pipes, my best bet is the acrylic tubes with UV reactive coolant and a UV cathode. But be aware that UV coolant will loose it's reactivity over time so you will have to top it up or change your coolant more often to keep the glowing effect.
Also keep in mind that distilled water cools best. With additives in it, it looses some of it's thermal performance.

Cheers


----------



## tSgt

hi everyone









Great guide here








Sorry if the question has been asked previously (i didn't read all these pages







) but do you guys think it's possible to bend an acrylic tube to 90° (Maximum) with a Bender, without damaging the tube ?

To add more details, here is the spec of the tubing i'll probably buy : 12 OD - 10 ID - 2mm thickness.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tSgt*
> 
> hi everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great guide here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if the question has been asked previously (i didn't read all these pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but do you guys think it's possible to bend an acrylic tube to 90° (Maximum) with a Bender, without damaging the tube ?
> 
> To add more details, here is the spec of the tubing i'll probably buy : 12 OD - 10 ID - 2mm thickness.


You dont use a bender for acrylic,you need a heat gun and a former


----------



## tSgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You dont use a bender for acrylic,you need a heat gun and a former


Ok thanks for the tips


----------



## T S D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> If you want glowing coolant with hard pipes, my best bet is the acrylic tubes with UV reactive coolant and a UV cathode. But be aware that UV coolant will loose it's reactivity over time so you will have to top it up or change your coolant more often to keep the glowing effect.
> Also keep in mind that distilled water cools best. With additives in it, it looses some of it's thermal performance.
> 
> Cheers


Aahhh man, your shooting me down at every turn, the bearer of good news.







Just kidding! Thanks for the info. What about a drop of food colouring? I supposed that would just gum up the system over time. And like you said wouldn't light up that much anyways.

I didn't notice but I'm pretty sure you can't get a uv cathode for the monsoon fitting or am I wrong?


----------



## Ferguson005

Does anyone know where to buy 12mm OD acrylic in the US? I'm really having a difficult time finding it anywhere. I tried using 3/8x1/2 and just lightly sanding the ends to get it to fit in the multilink adapters, but even if i flame polish it after sanding it doesn't seem to seal properly and becomes prone to popping out of the fitting (due to being slightly tapered).


----------



## CattleCorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferguson005*
> 
> Does anyone know where to buy 12mm OD acrylic in the US? I'm really having a difficult time finding it anywhere. I tried using 3/8x1/2 and just lightly sanding the ends to get it to fit in the multilink adapters, but even if i flame polish it after sanding it doesn't seem to seal properly and becomes prone to popping out of the fitting (due to being slightly tapered).


performance-pcs.com


----------



## Ferguson005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CattleCorn*
> 
> performance-pcs.com


Is that the only place? They never have it in stock... I simply can't believe that there is nobody like McMaster-Carr that carries it in the US... or that McMaster doesn't carry it themselves...


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Very interesting... Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Lovidore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You dont use a bender for acrylic,you need a heat gun and a former


And a former? Link me to one. And I shalt bestow upon thou the heftiest of reps.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lovidore*
> 
> And a former? Link me to one. And I shalt bestow upon thou the heftiest of reps.


I don't remember who it was (B-Neg maybe?) that suggested using some rubber fuel tubing inside of the acrylic to keep the tube from collapsing. Use the heat gun to get the tube nice and warm (but not too hot) and bend it around something that has the radius you are looking for







.... someone else will pitch in here


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lovidore*
> 
> And a former? Link me to one. And I shalt bestow upon thou the heftiest of reps.


as far as I know I believe formers are just jigs. I am just going to make mine using a block of wood and screws to just bend the tube around them.

I forget who it was but someone mentioned RC car fuel line to stick inside while bending so it doesnt collapse on itself so i dug some of that out as well.


----------



## Krusher33

Anything round really. Soup cans, hole saws, etc.

And I've seen a thick electric cord used for inside the tube.


----------



## Lovidore

I'll look into each of these options! Thank you!


----------



## Krusher33

I struck a deal on my GPU block and so it left room to buy things. I'm changing my mind about copper (again) and might buy E22's 12mm tubing and C47 fittings on Monday. Haven't made up my mind yet. I don't feel like spending $60 on it.


----------



## kpforce1

mmmmmmmmm copper.... I've made some progress with the hard tube.


Spoiler: Copper is pretty sweet


----------



## midnite

This is a great thread. Thank you for all the useful information!
I'm still planning my build and would really love to use copper pipes. Unfortunately, I can't find any 12mm tubes in Brazil so my options would be to use 1/2 inch ones and file the edges until they fit or buy from an international store that ships to Brazil.
I found this website that apparently ships to Brazil (haven't checked the costs yet). Would those pipes work fine on the BP C47 fittings?
Also, would it be ok to use those fitting without rotary ones? How would I connect the tubes to them once they're attached to the waterblocks/rads/etc?
Thank you very much!


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> mmmmmmmmm copper.... I've made some progress with the hard tube.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Copper is pretty sweet


OMG dude! digging it!


----------



## Baron C

Hi all,

Read the whole thread, and drawn towards acrylic tube.
Couple of things I'm unsure bout as still a WC noob.

1) on the E22 site gallery , 2nd row down, middle image of a tube res with light blue coolant.
Jutting out the side is what looks like a PF10 fiiting attached to a PF10.2 . (like a rotary fitting ) is that correct? if im wrong, then can someone tell me what it is, as its lovely!
http://www.e22.biz/Gallery.aspx

Thankyou fir a simply brilliant thread if information, really inspiring!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baron C*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Read the whole thread, and drawn towards acrylic tube.
> Couple of things I'm unsure bout as still a WC noob.
> 
> 1) on the E22 site gallery , 2nd row down, middle image of a tube res with light blue coolant.
> Jutting out the side is what looks like a PF10 fiiting attached to a PF10.2 . (like a rotary fitting ) is that correct? if im wrong, then can someone tell me what it is, as its lovely!
> http://www.e22.biz/Gallery.aspx
> 
> Thankyou fir a simply brilliant thread if information, really inspiring!


It looks like a stubby Koolance angled fitting of some sorts... Can't quite tell...

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Baron C

Yeah I cannot make out what type it is either.
Considering it's embedded internally inside the PF12 fitting...all a bit confusing









Shame as I love the svelte looks.

Thanks anyway


----------



## Krusher33

Anyone have experience with the fittings from this kit? Phobya SLI: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1202&products_id=32691

What OD tubing can those take?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Anyone have experience with the fittings from this kit? Phobya SLI: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1202&products_id=32691
> 
> What OD tubing can those take?


Uh...none. That's just an adjustable length fitting with G 1/4 male ends.


----------



## voldomazta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Anyone have experience with the fittings from this kit? Phobya SLI: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1202&products_id=32691
> 
> What OD tubing can those take?
> 
> 
> 
> Uh...none. That's just an adjustable length fitting with G 1/4 male ends.
Click to expand...



You can actually remove the shaft so you only get the fittings. I have a feeling the shaft OD which goes inside the fittings are 12mm ones and the fittings function like the C47 (with 2 o-rings as can be seen on the photo).


----------



## sakerfalcon

I just went through all 971 posts. So, to summarize:

If I were to buy 1/2" / 12.7mm copper pipes from Home Depot, I'll have to get the Koolance NZL-CU13 fitting for 1/2" rigid pipes.

If I were to get some 12mm copper pipes from CopperTubingSales.com, I can use Bitspower BP-MBWP-C47 Multi-Link Adapter on both ends.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Anyone have experience with the fittings from this kit? Phobya SLI: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1202&products_id=32691
> 
> What OD tubing can those take?
> 
> 
> 
> Uh...none. That's just an adjustable length fitting with G 1/4 male ends.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Anyone have experience with the fittings from this kit? Phobya SLI: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1202&products_id=32691
> 
> What OD tubing can those take?
> 
> 
> 
> Uh...none. That's just an adjustable length fitting with G 1/4 male ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> You can actually remove the shaft so you only get the fittings. I have a feeling the shaft OD which goes inside the fittings are 12mm ones and the fittings function like the C47 (with 2 o-rings as can be seen on the photo).
Click to expand...

:-/ I just got word from someone else that they used 8/10mm tubing with it. I may just order 1 and then 1 of each sized tubing since I already have a pair of c47 fittings. Try them out and see for myself.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> I just went through all 971 posts. So, to summarize:
> 
> If I were to buy 1/2" / 12.7mm copper pipes from Home Depot, I'll have to get the Koolance NZL-CU13 fitting for 1/2" rigid pipes.
> 
> If I were to get some 12mm copper pipes from CopperTubingSales.com, I can use Bitspower BP-MBWP-C47 Multi-Link Adapter on both ends.


You are correct!









Jeffinslaw


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> 
> 
> You can actually remove the shaft so you only get the fittings. I have a feeling the shaft OD which goes inside the fittings are 12mm ones and the fittings function like the C47 (with 2 o-rings as can be seen on the photo).


I see now that's a fixed shaft, but I suppose it must adjust some since that is how it's advertised.
Not sure why anyone would buy that for pipe fittings unless of course they just like the way they look. Heck, I like the way they look!


----------



## Krusher33

Because then the fittings are only $6 a pair.

Sassanou Watermod says he uses those in this:


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> mmmmmmmmm copper.... I've made some progress with the hard tube.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Copper is pretty sweet


Simply beautiful! I really need to get my stuff started. I've had to RMA my x58 classified 3 times in the past month now, which has stopped me from doing anything. Also rendering all the bended pipe for that build useless









Did you just use regular spray paint on your pipe? I'm wondering if I should paint some pipe a glossy or matte blue to match the Asus board (p9x79) or leave it as is. My parents say the copper looks good enough, but I'm never satisfied with things I do and expect something 'crazy' to be created lol.

Excuse the bad Nokia lumia pic







how it used to look.


----------



## Krusher33

I'd do copper if the blocks had copper in it or it matches the board. In your case, I agree to paint it. The copper is adding yet another color and it doesn't go with anything.


----------



## Shogon

Well 2 of the blocks used will be copper (aquacomputer), and the other 2 are nickel (ek). I hope to have the board, CPU, and rads today to have a look and get a basic image of what to color orientate. I was thinking having the inlet pipes blue, outlet pipes white, but I'll see.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Coppertubingsales's Aaron responded they only sell by 10 meter coils and do not cut. What do I do?


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Coppertubingsales's Aaron responded they only sell by 10 meter coils and do not cut. What do I do?


Did you ask for hard, straight pipe? I haven't talked to Aaron personally but I have stalked this thread and read it all the way through. Because I'm pretty sure they sell coiled as well as straight.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Coppertubingsales's Aaron responded they only sell by 10 meter coils and do not cut. What do I do?


I think it was PepeLapiu that got them to cut smaller ones?


----------



## Solonowarion

How do you "decompress" push fittings? just stick a flat head in and pry it up?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> How do you "decompress" push fittings? just stick a flat head in and pry it up?


Some push fittings have a "ring" thing you push down. In my build, the blue part of the fitting is what's pushed down to release the pipe.


----------



## Solonowarion

Stoked and kind of scared. Glad I bought a lot of acrylic.


----------



## RingingEars

I just want to say thanks to everyone here. Especially B-neg for starting the thread and superericla for the fast PM response to a question I had.
This is a great "how to" for copper.
I just bought the copper, bender, and cutter today and ordered the ebay fittings and XSPC extenders that superericla is using.
If the build goes well I may get the Koolance fittings... We'll see how it goes.


----------



## sakerfalcon

While CopperTubingSales hasn't really given me a quote yet, I'm thinking it's probably better to go with expensive Koolance fittings and imperial Home Depot copper tubing, because fittings stay with you forever but copper tube layouts come and go, plus I could make mistakes.


----------



## Krusher33

Good thinking.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> While CopperTubingSales hasn't really given me a quote yet, I'm thinking it's probably better to go with expensive Koolance fittings and imperial Home Depot copper tubing, because fittings stay with you forever but copper tube layouts come and go, plus I could make mistakes.


you could always go with these ebay fittings cheaper than the koolance ones and they take 3/8" pipe


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> you could always go with these ebay fittings cheaper than the koolance ones and they take 3/8" pipe


Seconded. I use those fittings in my build with great success. No leaks so far using them with coil copper (meant for refrigeration) from Home Depot.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Stoked and kind of scared. Glad I bought a lot of acrylic.


I doing the acrylic bending guide this weekend....



The silicone acts as a former,i use fuel line myself as it resists heat better.

The acrylic guide will be a separate thread.


----------



## Krusher33

Will you link that thread here please? (Once it's created of course)


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> While CopperTubingSales hasn't really given me a quote yet, I'm thinking it's probably better to go with expensive Koolance fittings and imperial Home Depot copper tubing, because fittings stay with you forever but copper tube layouts come and go, plus I could make mistakes.


It was mentioned earlier in the thread, but I'll reiterate... If you use the Koolance fittings do not use the ferrules they supply with the fittings (even if you order the 3/8" version from a site like PPC's). They do not fit as snugly on the 3/8 pipe to keep the fitting from cocking to an angle when fully tightened. Pick up some 3/8" ferrules from Home Depot when you get your 3/8" pipe.... the fit is 10x's better than the supplied ferrules.

I wasted some pipe before I discovered this. If you use 10mm pipe instead of 3/8 it isn't an issue but I didn't want 10mm due to availability.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I doing the acrylic bending guide this weekend....
> 
> 
> 
> The silicone acts as a former,i use fuel line myself as it resists heat better.
> 
> The acrylic guide will be a separate thread.


So you dont use silicone? I have some fuel line but its a little small. Im going to see if I can get some bigger stuff at the hobby shop today. Can't wait for the guide!


----------



## Krusher33

I got my 10mm and 12mm tubes today. I'm deciding on using the Phobya SLI fittings and the Bitspower C47 fittings. I'm unsure of which to use at this point.

The Phobya fitting went on the 10mm rather easy. Almost too easy. I felt the resistance from the rubber rings but... definitely needs leak testing. HOWEVER, I did compare to how it fits over the shaft thingy and they're about the same really.

The Bitspower fitting over the 12mm... well that was rather tight. It takes quite a bit of force to slip it on that I think I'd use rotary fittings. I couldn't get it through the second rubber ring. I think I'd just put these on and leave them on if I used these.

I do like the look of the Phobya fitting more though.

And as far as the difference between the 2 tubes, I had expected a much bigger notable difference, visually.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Does anyone have experience with these 1/2" pipe benders? They can be had for about ~$35 on ebay. (Model CT-364A-08, no idea brand name)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190811167217



I also saw a lot of Imperial Eastman FHA-08 for about the same price.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> It was mentioned earlier in the thread, but I'll reiterate... If you use the Koolance fittings do not use the ferrules they supply with the fittings (even if you order the 3/8" version from a site like PPC's). They do not fit as snugly on the 3/8 pipe to keep the fitting from cocking to an angle when fully tightened. Pick up some 3/8" ferrules from Home Depot when you get your 3/8" pipe.... the fit is 10x's better than the supplied ferrules.
> 
> I wasted some pipe before I discovered this. If you use 10mm pipe instead of 3/8 it isn't an issue but I didn't want 10mm due to availability.


Interesting!
I had disassembled a 3/8" fitting and saw the ferrule had twisted.....but not sure if it was a Koolance or Watts (from Lowes) ferrule.
I'm not sure if I saw any difference in sealing ability, but if you did then there's another reason to get the Watts which are just a store trip away for me.

I think I posted this before, but at Lowes (and I think maybe Home Depot) the 3/8" ferrules are Watts A-102 and the 1/2" ferrules are Watts A-202, back in the plumbing section.
They come in 3 packs, for whatever reason.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Coppertubingsales's Aaron responded they only sell by 10 meter coils and do not cut. What do I do?


Don't buy the coiled soft tubing. Buy the hard tubes instead. They will cut that in half to around 8-9 ft. I got them to cut it down to 4 ft lenghts. I think I did deal with Aaron if my memory serves me right.

From reading on here, the coiled copper is harder to be made to look straight.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Interesting!
> I had disassembled a 3/8" fitting and saw the ferrule had twisted.....but not sure if it was a Koolance or Watts (from Lowes) ferrule.
> I'm not sure if I saw any difference in sealing ability, but if you did then there's another reason to get the Watts which are just a store trip away for me.
> 
> I think I posted this before, but at Lowes (and I think maybe Home Depot) the 3/8" ferrules are Watts A-102 and the 1/2" ferrules are Watts A-202, back in the plumbing section.
> They come in 3 packs, for whatever reason.


Interesting, good info.


----------



## Baron C

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Stoked and kind of scared. Glad I bought a lot of acrylic.


I'm in the same boat.
Grabbed 10m of 12mm acrylic tube. ( im gonna make mistakes ;-))

About to order the fittings.

The only thing im unsure of is how to align tubes from fitting to fittin?
Is it simple trial and error?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baron C*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Stoked and kind of scared. Glad I bought a lot of acrylic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in the same boat.
> Grabbed 10m of 12mm acrylic tube. ( im gonna make mistakes ;-))
> 
> About to order the fittings.
> 
> The only thing im unsure of is how to align tubes from fitting to fittin?
> Is it simple trial and error?
Click to expand...

Nope.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/0_20


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> While CopperTubingSales hasn't really given me a quote yet, I'm thinking it's probably better to go with expensive Koolance fittings and imperial Home Depot copper tubing, because fittings stay with you forever but copper tube layouts come and go, plus I could make mistakes.


Aaron replied.

So cost analysis:
*Metric 12mm tubing:*
12mm copper pipe from CTS: $10.50 / m x 5m
Bitspower C47 multilink pairs: $9.99 / pair x 8 pairs
CTS Shipping: $35
FCPU Shipping: $3.99
===========================================
Total: $167.33

- 5m / 16.4ft copper pipe
- Fittings can be used with rotary extenders
- $3.99 shipping from FCPU, 5.1% coupon applied
- 12mm x 1mm wall pipe sold minimum 5m, cut in half.

*Imperial 1/2" tubing:*
1/2" Type M copper pipe from Home Depot: $8.70 / 5ft x 2
Koolance NZL-CU13 13mm / 1/2" fitting: $9.84 / ea x 16
Koolance Shipping: $8.75
============================================
Total: $183.59

- 10ft copper pipe
- Fittings sold 10+ for $9.84 each

Did not expect that outcome. Koolance fittings are expensive.







I could order almost 7m / 22.9ft of copper pipe from CTS for the price of 10ft Home Depot + Koolance (not including ferrule cost), assuming the shipping from CTS is about $30. Can anyone with experience chime in how much UPS shipping was?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Does anyone have experience with these 1/2" pipe benders? They can be had for about ~$35 on ebay. (Model CT-364A-08, no idea brand name)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/190811167217
> 
> 
> 
> I also saw a lot of Imperial Eastman FHA-08 for about the same price.


Bump for this question.


----------



## sakerfalcon

6m pipes will be cut in thirds (2m each) and 5m pipes will be cut in halves (2.5m each). By his quote $35 shipping applies to both. I asked a lot of local stores and none of them sell metric pipes, and very few sell 3/8" pipes which have 1/2" OD. Home Depot 1/2" pipe actually has 5/8" OD. I had forgotten that imperial pipes are 1/8" larger than their nominal diameter.

Unless the Koolance fittings are nominally 1/2" but actually accept 5/8" OD pipes?


----------



## Grumpich

Hello....
This thread is really interesting. Here in Germany in every forum it is said that it is impossible to bend acrylic tubes, I am glad I found this.
I have alot of acrylic tubes here with an OD of 16mm and an ID of 10mm. I was thinking if I cut a screw thread (G1/4) into each end of the pipe and then screw in a double nipple fitting I could connect them in the System. But I though this would be a problem because to screw the fittings to the coolers I would have to move the tubes which would not work if they are bend. So I found these fittings Alphacool which I could screw onto the waterblocks without having to move the tubes. Do you guys think this will work?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> 6m pipes will be cut in thirds (2m each) and 5m pipes will be cut in halves (2.5m each). By his quote $35 shipping applies to both. I asked a lot of local stores and none of them sell metric pipes, and very few sell 3/8" pipes which have 1/2" OD. Home Depot 1/2" pipe actually has 5/8" OD. I had forgotten that imperial pipes are 1/8" larger than their nominal diameter.
> 
> Unless the Koolance fittings are nominally 1/2" but actually accept 5/8" OD pipes?


You have to be careful when you go to Lowes or Home Depot. Some short pieces of straight tubing sold might be listed by either ID or OD so it's easy to get them confused. Typically refrigeration tubing is listed by OD (coiled) so when it says 3/8" it's really 3/8".
But also some so called 3/8" OD tubing is really 1/4" ID extra thick walled that makes it hard to slide the Koolance fittings over. They work but with a lot of effort.

Koolance fittings are sold for either 3/8" OD or 1/2" OD (Imperial) pipe. No way do you want any 5/8" tubing.


----------



## sakerfalcon

They have 3/8" coiled, and 1/2" hard (which is actually 5/8"), but not 3/8" hard. They don't sell anything smaller than 1/2" unfortunately. I might have to go metric afterall.


----------



## Valgaur

Hello sir! nice guide! (needed it very much for my build this sumer) I'm going to be using metal piping and I reeeeeeally like the look of that silver pipping. I'm havving 5 radiators quadfire 2 RAM blocks and a very very special custom made TEC CPU block for a 3930K.

This will all be inside a handmade wooden case made by myself.

first off.... how do those fittings work exactly? and where does one get those silver/copper pipping as well?

also whered you get the pipe bender as well?

sorry for the noobness. really new to pipe bending is all.....


----------



## EPiiKK

HI guys!
Im starting a build project with a friend of mine, we are gonna do water cooled gaming PC into Xigmatek elysium, using what else than copper pipes








We are also gonna do more mods and such but they are not the topic of this post

I need help picking the fittings, would these work? http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/AT66000 ?

And how do i make a drain port for the loop? sould it be after or before the pump?

Here's current, professional level plan Window that we will make will be about mobos height and showing the res or some of it


----------



## Valgaur

hey NEG does the 10mm OD silver stainless steal hoosing work on those fitting (the matte silver 10mm hose compayability PLUG G 1/4" work? I see 3/8's is 9.5mm not 10mm actually....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> hey NEG does the 10mm OD silver stainless steal hoosing work on those fitting (the matte silver 10mm hose compayability PLUG G 1/4" work? I see 3/8's is 9.5mm not 10mm actually....


They only work with 10mm OD tube,3/8 does seep and is not recommended.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They only work with 10mm OD tube,3/8 does seep and is not recommended.


where do you get said 10mm piping then? I'd like to do a silver pipping build and I have some serious hardware in there.... I need no leaks.... if not I will do normal piping


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They only work with 10mm OD tube,3/8 does seep and is not recommended.
> 
> 
> 
> where do you get said 10mm piping then? I'd like to do a silver pipping build and I have some serious hardware in there.... I need no leaks.... if not I will do normal piping
Click to expand...

Try the ancient art of Google-Fu for your area


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Try the ancient art of Google-Fu for your area


Aaaah the very fluent andexpressed technique of google fu, I shall try oh great masta'

With the 10mm pipes and those fittings it doesn't leak at all correct?


----------



## Ichigo27

Hi Guys,

been scouring the local hardware shops (Calgary) for fittings; i came across these:


it's watts A-122. I tried test fitting it into a spare res and the thread does seem to match up but it wont go all the way to the end. i dont mind some thread sticking out as long as it's leak proof. let me know what you think.

i also found this:


it says it's for 1/2 tube but is more likely 3/8 ID, i dont have any 3/8 ID to try it on. it's very cheap for 0.99 cents a piece. it's very sturdy as you could see i could not get the ferrule out after i've connected them. probably over tightened it too much. I'm thinking of connecting it to some barbs i have laying around if I could not find any proper fittings ( yeah they might look fuglier..







). but for 99 cents a pop..... if all else fails my last choice is going for mettle air but am still having misgivings about the longevity of the plastic inserts.

found some chromed copper pipes used as toilet risers, they're 4 dollars per 20" piece. seems a good price to me and i dont have to worry about chroming them and they're pretty easy to bend.

and yeah, i'm working with imperials







and on a tight budget


----------



## Ichigo27

BTW, I also saw something like the A-122 but instead of a male thread; it has a female thread at the end. wonder if anyone know of a nipple or thread adapter we could use? i did not find any any that switches over from NPT to BSPP. wonder if there is anything like that at all.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Try the ancient art of Google-Fu for your area
> 
> 
> 
> Aaaah the very fluent andexpressed technique of google fu, I shall try oh great masta'
> 
> With the 10mm pipes and those fittings it doesn't leak at all correct?
Click to expand...

Correct.
Pics when when you start?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ichigo27*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> been scouring the local hardware shops (Calgary) for fittings; i came across these:
> 
> 
> it's watts A-122. I tried test fitting it into a spare res and the thread does seem to match up but it wont go all the way to the end. i dont mind some thread sticking out as long as it's leak proof. let me know what you think.
> 
> i also found this:
> 
> 
> it says it's for 1/2 tube but is more likely 3/8 ID, i dont have any 3/8 ID to try it on. it's very cheap for 0.99 cents a piece. it's very sturdy as you could see i could not get the ferrule out after i've connected them. probably over tightened it too much. I'm thinking of connecting it to some barbs i have laying around if I could not find any proper fittings ( yeah they might look fuglier..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). but for 99 cents a pop..... if all else fails my last choice is going for mettle air but am still having misgivings about the longevity of the plastic inserts.
> 
> found some chromed copper pipes used as toilet risers, they're 4 dollars per 20" piece. seems a good price to me and i dont have to worry about chroming them and they're pretty easy to bend.
> 
> and yeah, i'm working with imperials
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and on a tight budget


That fitting has the correct threads but no means of sealing,there is no oring nor a PTFE thread seal,i would urge you to consider something else.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Correct.
> Pics when when you start?
> That fitting has the correct threads but no means of sealing,there is no oring nor a PTFE thread seal,i would urge you to consider something else.


Yes sir! Im going to set up a build log here soon and ill linky it if you'd like. I want metal tubing... but to change cpu's out that will be a serious pain in the buttocks.......


----------



## RingingEars

I wanted to give you all a big thanks for this thread.
I got mine done yesterday. I still need to fill and bleed the system and polish the pipes...


----------



## Ichigo27

Quote:


> That fitting has the correct threads but no means of sealing,there is no oring nor a PTFE thread seal,i would urge you to consider something else.


gotcha! thanks B neg!


----------



## EPiiKK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EPiiKK*
> 
> HI guys!
> Im starting a build project with a friend of mine, we are gonna do water cooled gaming PC into Xigmatek elysium, using what else than copper pipes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are also gonna do more mods and such but they are not the topic of this post
> 
> I need help picking the fittings, would these work? http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/AT66000 ?
> 
> And how do i make a drain port for the loop? sould it be after or before the pump?
> 
> Here's current, professional level plan Window that we will make will be about mobos height and showing the res or some of it


Seems that my post was left behind and forgotten... Guys i need some constructive critique on this plan


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EPiiKK*
> 
> Seems that my post was left behind and forgotten... Guys i need some constructive critique on this plan


looks really clean and simple


----------



## EPiiKK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> looks really clean and simple


Alright thanks, I really can't wait to get my hands on this one, we are gonna do quite a bit of modding to it









Still, what about the fittings, are these ok? http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/AT66000


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EPiiKK*
> 
> Alright thanks, I really can't wait to get my hands on this one, we are gonna do quite a bit of modding to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, what about the fittings, are these ok? http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/AT66000


they look good just make sure you OD on those fittings for hose compatability is 10mm and then get 10mm OD pipping


----------



## B NEGATIVE

http://www.wellfittings.com/brass-push-in-fittings-with-o-ring-bspp-g-bpoc-g-hex-male-stud.html

Push fit for up to 16mm OD tube.


----------



## sakerfalcon

I'm submitting an order for copper pipes at CTS; is anyone in the SF Bay Area interested and want to do a group order with me? Shipping is flat $35 for any lengths and it'd make sense economically if it were ordered in bulk and distributed locally.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Is it possible to do this:

1- Use a compression fitting that requires ID of 7/16" and an OD of 5/8"
2- Buy copper tubing with an ID of at least 1/2" and an OD that is compatible with the 5/8"
3- Now, when you place the copper tubing in the barb, there will be 1/32" all round the the area between the copper tube and the barb.
4- Put O-rings in this area to seal off the space
5- Force the copper tube in over this barb with the O-ring
6- Screw down the compression fitting for a tight and secure seal.


----------



## Wicked x Josh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> I'm submitting an order for copper pipes at CTS; is anyone in the SF Bay Area interested and want to do a group order with me? Shipping is flat $35 for any lengths and it'd make sense economically if it were ordered in bulk and distributed locally.


Have you checked mcmaster.com? I cant see them not shipping to CA and it will be cheaper than that.

Also just wanted to post some photos of recent copper work I did with a lot of help from this thread, thanks to everyone that helped including the OP.



http://imgur.com/HbfzKZt





http://imgur.com/MKPOO7l


----------



## Krusher33

That's a tight fit! Nice job.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wicked x Josh*
> 
> Have you checked mcmaster.com? I cant see them not shipping to CA and it will be cheaper than that.


I have, and shipping may be cheaper, but they also charge $26.71 / meter. CTS is selling $10.50 / meter with flat $35 shipping.

Nice work, by the way! Give it some sandpaper and buffing wheel and polish them to shine.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

I would really like to do copper tubing as my first watercooling project, but I have some questions.

How secure are the bitspower fittings? Some people have said that all it takes is accidentally bumping into the computer for the pipe to pop off the fitting.

Also, I was thinking of doing the following:

1- Use a compression fitting that requires ID of 7/16" and an OD of 5/8" such as this Monsoon Open Center Fitting
2- Buy copper tubing with an ID of at least 1/2" and an OD that is compatible with the 5/8" such as this one from Homedepot
3- Now, when you place the copper tubing in the barb, there will be 1/32" all round the the area between the copper tube and the barb.
4- Put O-rings in this area to seal off the space
5- Force the copper tube in over this barb with the O-ring
6- Screw down the compression for a tight and secure seal.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> I would really like to do copper tubing as my first watercooling project, but I have some questions.
> 
> How secure are the bitspower fittings? Some people have said that all it takes is accidentally bumping into the computer for the pipe to pop off the fitting.
> 
> Also, I was thinking of doing the following:
> 
> 1- Use a compression fitting that requires ID of 7/16" and an OD of 5/8" such as this Monsoon Open Center Fitting
> 2- Buy copper tubing with an ID of at least 1/2" and an OD that is compatible with the 5/8" such as this one from Homedepot
> 3- Now, when you place the copper tubing in the barb, there will be 1/32" all round the the area between the copper tube and the barb.
> 4- Put O-rings in this area to seal off the space
> 5- Force the copper tube in over this barb with the O-ring
> 6- Screw down the compression for a tight and secure seal.


C47s are good for tenstile stress but not so good for lateral stress.

Your method you have described is no substitute for correct fittings.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> C47s are good for tenstile stress but not so good for lateral stress.
> 
> Your method you have described is no substitute for correct fittings.


what would you describe a correct substitute? How could we take fitting intended for rubber tubes and turn it into something that can be used for copper tubing?

also, is there anything we can do to the c47s to make them more secure and have a peace of mind? Like, is there anything we can tie to secure the copper pipe to it? I would prefer going the c47 route cause they're cheaper and look damn sexy, but I don't want to sacrifice security.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> C47s are good for tenstile stress but not so good for lateral stress.
> 
> Your method you have described is no substitute for correct fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> what would you describe a correct substitute? How could we take fitting intended for rubber tubes and turn it into something that can be used for copper tubing?
> 
> also, is there anything we can do to the c47s to make them more secure and have a peace of mind? Like, is there anything we can tie to secure the copper pipe to it? I would prefer going the c47 route cause they're cheaper and look damn sexy, but I don't want to sacrifice security.
Click to expand...

Normal compressions cannot be converted and there is no substitute for the correct fittings.

How is a £4.50 c47 cheaper than a £1.70 push fit from aquatuning?


----------



## EPiiKK

Do these fittings fit The 10mm thick pipe

I'm just concerned about the wall thickness of the pipe, and what the fittings are made for.

Also, is it easy to disassemble the loop?


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Normal compressions cannot be converted and there is no substitute for the correct fittings.
> 
> How is a £4.50 c47 cheaper than a £1.70 push fit from aquatuning?


my only concern with those push fittings is they're only 8 and 10mm. I'm assuming that is OD which means that the ID is going to be even smaller and require more pressure to move through the pipes.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wicked x Josh*
> 
> Have you checked mcmaster.com? I cant see them not shipping to CA and it will be cheaper than that.
> 
> Also just wanted to post some photos of recent copper work I did with a lot of help from this thread, thanks to everyone that helped including the OP.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/HbfzKZt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/MKPOO7l


Nice build man!







Loving the tight fit for sure


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Normal compressions cannot be converted and there is no substitute for the correct fittings.
> 
> How is a £4.50 c47 cheaper than a £1.70 push fit from aquatuning?
> 
> 
> 
> my only concern with those push fittings is they're only 8 and 10mm. I'm assuming that is OD which means that the ID is going to be even smaller and require more pressure to move through the pipes.
Click to expand...

Tubing ID plays little to no part in flow rates for PC WC loops,stay between 8mm and 13mm for best performance.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Tubing ID plays little to no part in flow rates for PC WC loops,stay between 8mm and 13mm for best performance.


Hey NEG if I can get my Bitspower sponsorship should I take the C47's or just use the push fittings from aqua?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Tubing ID plays little to no part in flow rates for PC WC loops,stay between 8mm and 13mm for best performance.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey NEG if I can get my Bitspower sponsorship should I take the C47's or just use the push fittings from aqua?
Click to expand...

If they are free,then grab the BP fittings.


----------



## sakerfalcon

So you'd still recommend the push fittings from Aqua over Bitspower C47, B Neg?


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If they are free,then grab the BP fittings.


I figured especially since my build is in a different location in the comp unlike most builds so there's not a lot of weight pulling them down but actually onto the fittings themselves.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> So you'd still recommend the push fittings from Aqua over Bitspower C47, B Neg?


I do tend to recommend any pushfit over friction fit,that added security is worth it to me.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do tend to recommend any pushfit over friction fit,that added security is worth it to me.


That is why I use the Koolance fittings lol.... no way I could use the bitspower fittings unless they were vertical runs (i.e. no side load at all). Push fits I think I could possibly use but for my first build I went for the more difficult to use Koolance ones







In retrospect, I would have probably used push fits had I knew at the time of order that I would be using 20+ fittings for pipe lol


----------



## sakerfalcon

Does anyone recall what the model # for those pushfits were?


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Does anyone recall what the model # for those pushfits were?


I'll do ya one better. Clicky


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Does anyone recall what the model # for those pushfits were?


You could also try.... e22.biz


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Does anyone recall what the model # for those pushfits were?


I just got these ones

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1200&products_id=33853

using with acrylic tubing


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Found these:

http://www.e22.biz/E22fittings2.aspx

I think I'd prefer the Aqua over those because one, they're considerably cheaper, and two you can get them in a few different color schemes.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Thanks all, +1 to everyone.

Now, B Neg, do you think these would also work? In search of 12mm, USA-based store that sells push-in fittings:

http://www.boschrexroth-us.com/country_units/america/united_states/sub_websites/brus_dcp/goto/Pneumatics/qr1_fittings/

The model in particular is 2121012140. 12mm diameter, G1/4 BSPP, 6mm thread height (a Bitspower 1/2x3/4 BP-MBCPF-CC5 compression fitting height is 5.7).

I've taken a look at the manual and the numbers do match up, but I want someone with experience to take a look:


They seem to be very similar (if not identical) to these ones, but white instead of blue collars:
http://www.wellfittings.com/pneumatic-fittings-one-touch-tube-fittings-with-o-ring-bspp-g-pc-g-male-connector.html

which Mandrix uses:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101/900_100#post_19672710


----------



## Krusher33

They sell the E22 ones at performance-pc's now.


----------



## Wicked x Josh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> That's a tight fit! Nice job.


That it is, should have seen the work to get all the angles to fit. I am definitively never doing copper again but I love that I can now say I did it once.

I bought 6' of tube and used all of it just because of a few mess-ups on some of the more complex angles.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> I have, and shipping may be cheaper, but they also charge $26.71 / meter. CTS is selling $10.50 / meter with flat $35 shipping.
> 
> Nice work, by the way! Give it some sandpaper and buffing wheel and polish them to shine.


I honestly thought about it but all I did was sand them with 200, 400, and then a little at 1500 to give them more or a rugged look. I originally wanted a nice polish to them but I like it better this way.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

My PC has a black and gray theme going. Is there any type of paint I can use to give it a powdery/ceramic gray look to it? If you have seen the Xigmatek Dark Knight CPU cooler, that's the type of color/texture I'm trying to go for.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> My PC has a black and gray theme going. Is there any type of paint I can use to give it a powdery/ceramic gray look to it? If you have seen the Xigmatek Dark Knight CPU cooler, that's the type of color/texture I'm trying to go for.


Is there a gray edition of the cooler?


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Is there a gray edition of the cooler?


I believe he is talking about the Dark Knight II, which has a ceramic coating.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

I'm sorry, this is the one I meant:

http://cdn.overclock.net/9/90/902d9174_Untitled.png

this is the xigmatek dark knight II. I was wondering if there was a similar type of paint I can use on the copper tubes

edit:
it seems this will do it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPJLGM/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&psc=1&s=automotive


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> I'm sorry, this is the one I meant:
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/9/90/902d9174_Untitled.png
> 
> this is the xigmatek dark knight II. I was wondering if there was a similar type of paint I can use on the copper tubes
> 
> edit:
> it seems this will do it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPJLGM/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&psc=1&s=automotive


Looks like black primer would lookd identical to that


----------



## Simplynicko

about to jump on this epic bandwagon.


----------



## housefly88

You can take a sample of the color and have some rattle cans made up. Not too expensive either.

Also thanks B-and others for all the great guides.

Only my opinion, but when doing, copper, or any other type of hard piping, don't be too cheap, or your going to end up spending more in the end, than doing it correctly the first time. Buy a few extra fittings, when testing, especially with the c47's because you will damage the o-rings when test fitting. Don't stress over 8mm ID, it will not make much if any noticable flow difference. If your doing "hard pipe" for aesthetics, then use a size that looks good, copper can be plated (at least in the US fairly inexpensive) Stainless will work, in some situations with the right fitting, but be prepared to spend $$$. Compression will work on some situations, (unconventional, methods, but that's why most of us mod to begin with, there is a great build pic using dplugs a few pages back)
B Negative and a lot of other people have given everyone the info needed, I know it's a long thread but read through it, and you won't be dissipointed.

//not a rant, no flame needed (unless your using glass) : )


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thanks mate.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> This industry has beat the "Blue Led" horse to death...


*DA TRUTH!*


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> about to jump on this epic bandwagon.


ahhhh thats right.... take another sip of the KoolAid lol









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> *DA TRUTH!*


This...


----------



## Michalius

Thought folks in here might want to see this post from my build log. My first foray into bending.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> *Pipedreams*
> 
> Alright, time to test out some bending to see how I do. I decided to pick up some 3/8" OD pipe benders and some cheap chrome supply line to see how I do.
> 
> 
> 
> Into the bender it goes, and out comes.....
> 
> 
> 
> That doesn't look right. I don't think copper pipe is supposed to be flat on the side. Well, all is not lost. I can at least try my hand at using the pipe cutter.
> 
> 
> I swear this wasn't threaded pipe. I feel like I can hear something. It's like a voice, with a british accent. I think I hear a small dog barking in agreement. He said something about 'Magoo'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I need to work on my technique.
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> *
> _Time went on.
> 
> A fortnight passed, Michalius tirelessly worked on his Tube-Fu. With the wise words of BNeg and Magoo, he persevered.
> 
> Many pipes later. . ._
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty good. Now to try out the real stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> Those are some serious *expletive deleted* pipe benders right there. Let's see how they work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But can he cut?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes he can


Let me know if I should trim that down.


----------



## Krusher33

LOL that was awesome.


----------



## housefly88

Awesome job, the ridgid benders are worth the $$, very nice turn out


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *housefly88*
> 
> Buy a few extra fittings, when testing, especially with the c47's because you will damage the o-rings when test fitting.


Isn't it just possible to get a few spare o-rings in the correct diameter? I doubt bitspower has custom o-rings made for these fittings.
I'd think a standard M16x1,5 (12mm ID, 1,5mm ring thickness) o-ring would do just fine. At 25 eurocents a pop you can't really go wrong with buying two to see if it works or not.
Now I think of it, aren't these O-rings exactly the same as the ones used for the G1/4 thread seal?


----------



## sakerfalcon

I've talked to a few companies, and seemingly from their model numbers, I've noticed a trend in their products. Of the (nice looking) 12mm all-metal, nickel-plated brass fittings, there is a "12-G02" designation. They usually use the same stock images or very similar stock images, implying they're all come from the same Chinese factory.




Will keep you guys updated as they respond.


----------



## housefly88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Isn't it just possible to get a few spare o-rings in the correct diameter? I doubt bitspower has custom o-rings made for these fittings.
> I'd think a standard M16x1,5 (12mm ID, 1,5mm ring thickness) o-ring would do just fine. At 25 eurocents a pop you can't really go wrong with buying two to see if it works or not.
> Now I think of it, aren't these O-rings exactly the same as the ones used for the G1/4 thread seal?


Yes it would deffently be less expensive to just fit an o-ring, my only concern is in how the pipe inserts after its be cut, reamed and bent. I used the C47 for an example, but a Pipe with a +/- tolerance will let the oring fit, but will not make a correct seal in your fitting, I think your idea is great, but as I mentioned before if you going to do a copper/acrylic/glass/etc hardpipe build, you shouldnt be too worried over 8 euros, ($10.00 USD) for two extra fittings you can test your pipe with. I am only trying to give advice from my experience. Alot of the guys above will tell you that after "X" amount pushing on rigid pipe, the fitting's orings will get pretty chewed up. I personally use the same two, to do test fittings, once im satisified, I switch to new unopened fittings. Again, this is only my opinion


----------



## Jetskyer

Ah, you meant it like that!
I think I misunderstood you then and to be honest I think it's a brilliant idea to use one set of fittings to test-fit every run before you screw up more fittings. I will definitely order 2 extra fittings.

I will nevertheless measure the o-rings and see if I can find them somewhere so they could be replaced when they dry out after a few years.


----------



## Krusher33

If it's because they're dried out, I don't doubt you could probably shoot Bitspower an email about it and they'd help you out. Probably with some Swedish Fish, you'd convince them.


----------



## Jetskyer

Haha, wow, that's an awesome story, I'll definitely remember that. Not so to make an RMA go quicker but just to make the technician smile.
Without those people we would have squad.

I already send bitspower an email with a question about the O-rings, when I get a reply I'll quote it here.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> If it's because they're dried out, I don't doubt you could probably shoot Bitspower an email about it and they'd help you out. Probably with some Swedish Fish, you'd convince them.


Thank you so much for this link. This will now become standard practice for me.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Thank you so much for this link. This will now become standard practice for me.


this. that was a great read


----------



## korruptedkaos

can anyone in here tell me do the aquatuning push fit fittings allow you to only push them in? I mean can you push them in then unscrew it or do they only release by the grab ring. or does the nut spin separate from the top part.

ive got a really small bit of pipe going from a rad to the mosfet directly below it. cant see how im gonna push it in both ends.

fittings are due on Tuesday but ive bent all my pipes already & I left them abit longer till they arrive.

if they only push in I might have to do it some other way?

ill post a pic if you don't know what I mean?


----------



## korruptedkaos

this is the pipe I mean?



wont be able to bend it at all?

will be painting the pipes aswell either black or chrome?


----------



## Xclsyr

Don't have the fittings but you hopefully should be able to place the fittings loosely on the pipe ends, insert them into the block & rad, tighten the fittings down and THEN lock them in with the ring. Trying to turn the fitting around the pipe after locking is just asking for it...


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xclsyr*
> 
> Don't have the fittings but you hopefully should be able to place the fittings loosely on the pipe ends, insert them into the block & rad, tighten the fittings down and THEN lock them in with the ring. Trying to turn the fitting around the pipe after locking is just asking for it...


cheers I hope I can get this thing to fit somehow?

when you say lock them in? do you mean just pushing them in the grabring? aren't they just like speedfit/hep plumbing fittings?

will be a struggle for sure!

the rest should be pretty simple tbh.

what color do you think for the pipes chrome or black? all led's are blue & the ram cooler which isn't in the pic 'ocz xtc' is black with blue led fans?


----------



## Xclsyr

Wouldn't go chrome - you've got too much aluminum showing in your case; plus there's the extra cost of plating it vs. painting.

As for the lock-in - sorry was thinking of another type fitting I've used before, where the blue ring is pushed in to lock the pipe in place, then could be pulled back to release. Looked similar but when I checked AT's website they're not the same. Sorry my bad.


----------



## korruptedkaos

no worries? there not like compression fittings then.

I think ill probably go black? if I was gonna do chrome it would be radiator spray paint lol? not plated? maybe next time?

yeah case is a big let down tbh. could paint it but this is just a little test to see how it works out? gonna give this rig to my nephew for crimbo anyway.

im gonna be doing a total overhaul when ivy-E drops! new everything! should have about 3000 grand by then?

not making any mistakes on my next build? make sure I buy everything at same time & it all comes together properly!

next case will be a switch 810 or 900D or somet similar in size? deffo going black & chrome & I wont be doing mb blocks again!

I always mash up builds by buying in bits without thinking about all the details. I just need to try my hand at sleeving cables next I think?

gotta thank B NEG for his help in where to get fittings etc!

will post some pics & report on temps here when im done.


----------



## KvotheKing

don't know if anyone will be able to help me with this but anybody know where i could get 10mm OD copper tubing and fittings for it. I need a store in Australia because i don't really want to pay $60 shipping for $10-$15 worth of fittings from Aquatuning








Any help at all would be appreciated.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> I've had this in my drawer for over a year now and decided to share it with you guys and asky ou for your thoughts. It was originally made for hard copper tube but can be used also with hard acrylic tubes. The sealing is performed with 2 rubber o-rings. First O-ring is in the inner fitting groove and the second o-ring is being compressed by the compression ring and making perfect sealing.


ThinkCell

Me wants..


----------



## housefly88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> 
> ThinkCell
> 
> Me wants..


^ I'll take 14 please, the knured outside ring, make those look so beautiful, why not bring them to the market? Very clean, professional and elegant looking.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I've had this in my drawer for over a year now and decided to share it with you guys and asky ou for your thoughts. It was originally made for hard copper tube but can be used also with hard acrylic tubes. The sealing is performed with 2 rubber o-rings. First O-ring is in the inner fitting groove and the second o-ring is being compressed by the compression ring and making perfect sealing.
> 
> 
> 
> ThinkCell
> 
> Me wants..
Click to expand...

VOTE ON IT NAO!


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> VOTE ON IT NAO!


voted and if they come into existence I will be using them!


----------



## korruptedkaos

well my fittings came?

got it all together yesterday?

had major problems getting 1 pipe to fit? must of redone it about 5 times lol. kept leaking aswell!

I had no pipe left in the end otherwise I would have done it again?

the pipe is a bit scuffed up on that run but ill give it a sand when I paint them?



gonna paint them in place I think. don't fancy trying to take them out lol.

all in all it was really quite easy I guess? I could of done a better job on the pipe bends I think though?

im gonna leave the system for a while to dry out as It leaked a bit of water on the mobo lol.

not much but im gonna give it a day to dry out to be sure? will post temps etc 2moz.

will deffo be doing this on my next build if temps are good ?

thankyou again to B NEG & Everyone else who contributed in this thread?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> VOTE ON IT NAO!


Those are fantastic!!


----------



## RingingEars

^^Voted. I would swap out my copper pipes to use these with acrylic...


----------



## korruptedkaos

could not wait till 2moz lol?

anyway for those thinking of doing this, it has helped with temps a lot!

Down by about 10'c id say on load temps. idle temps were about the same though? i use to hit around 77-79'c before?

same overclock as i had before & ran prime for 10mins to see how it would hold up? wont break past 67'c.!



really impressed with this method?

i wander if it would be even better using 10mm-15mm couplings lol?

gonna try that next time i think?


----------



## Ichigo27

Hi Guys,

Finally finished my chromed copper pipe build in my new switch 810 rig. Just want to share some pics.



























grabbed a few quick pics from my phone, apologies if the pics are a bit dark.

Thanks to B neg and the rest of the guys that contributed to this thread,


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ichigo27*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Finally finished my chromed copper pipe build in my new switch 810 rig. Just want to share some pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> grabbed a few quick pics from my phone, apologies if the pics are a bit dark.
> 
> Thanks to B neg and the rest of the guys that contributed to this thread,


Did you paint those pipes? If so how and with what


----------



## joostflux

^^Pretty sure they are chrome plated.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ichigo27*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Finally finished my chromed copper pipe build in my new switch 810 rig. Just want to share some pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> grabbed a few quick pics from my phone, apologies if the pics are a bit dark.
> 
> Thanks to B neg and the rest of the guys that contributed to this thread,


looks really good?

i plan on using the switch 810 on my next build? black one though!

wont be doing the motherboard next time, too much like hard work lol

think ill be using chrome pipe aswell or painting them? black/red/chrome or black/blue/chrome will be the color theme.

curious what are your temps like with just the cpu & gpu?


----------



## Ichigo27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Did you paint those pipes? If so how and with what


They are pre chromed copper pipes, they're called toilet risers







. comes in 12" and 20" length


----------



## housefly88

The blue on the fittings works very well in your build


----------



## Ichigo27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> looks really good?
> 
> i plan on using the switch 810 on my next build? black one though!
> 
> wont be doing the motherboard next time, too much like hard work lol
> 
> think ill be using chrome pipe aswell or painting them? black/red/chrome or black/blue/chrome will be the color theme.
> 
> curious what are your temps like with just the cpu & gpu?


Thanks! they did not really turn out as i wanted them to be. I would have preferred straighter lines but it's very hard to get them to fit properly. consider using elbow fittings and use 2 90 deg bends to make 180 "U" bends so that it's easier to fit and do maintenance. I had to force some of them to fit and i was afraid i might have done some damage to some parts.









cpu when idle is at 29 deg and 43 on full load.
GPU at 51 when doing bench but i used a universal GPU block with a copper shim and had to do double tim







(gpu block not really compatible with ati 7970)


----------



## Ichigo27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *housefly88*
> 
> The blue on the fittings works very well in your build


Yeah, i worked out pretty well.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

All you need to do now is just sleeve your cables and your build is gonna be pretty boss.


----------



## KvotheKing

Just wondering, does anybody know whether these fittings would be ok and secure for 10mm OD Copper tubing?

http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/koolance-fitting-single-for-od-10mm-38in-soft-copper-tubing/


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KvotheKing*
> 
> Just wondering, does anybody know whether these fittings would be ok and secure for 10mm OD Copper tubing?
> 
> http://www.thekoolroom.com/product/koolance-fitting-single-for-od-10mm-38in-soft-copper-tubing/


I used like 20 of them in my build


----------



## hammerforged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> I used like 20 of them in my build


Heard that!


----------



## Simplynicko

general question. does copper tubing or hard acrylic tubing have a higher chance of leaking?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> general question. does copper tubing or hard acrylic tubing have a higher chance of leaking?


Not a chance. If done right same as tubing.

The push fittings I used at least are very solid witha good sized o ring in them. Only way they can leak is if o ring is broken or not pushed in all the way. Again if done right I beieve they are exactly the same as tubing for reliabilty.


----------



## superericla

One odd thing I've experienced is that the threads on one of my push fittings leaks a couple drops when my build is turned off, and will do the same if the fitting is switched out. It's not a major leak, and it stops a second after it starts.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> general question. does copper tubing or hard acrylic tubing have a higher chance of leaking?


I can't think of a reason that would make them more likely to leak over soft tubing.
I use the push-fit fittings for air at work and they tolerate 200 psi without any problems. It's everything else in my air system that can't handle 200 psi. But the push-fits hold up to that just fine. You are not likely to get 10-20 psi of water in your loop, much less 200 psi.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> You are not likely to get 10-20 psi of water in your loop, much less 200 psi.


Possibly that's why it leaks. High pressure might help "squeeze" the pipes against the o-rings and, in push-fittings, the harder the tubing is forced out of it, the harder the clamps bite into the tubing, securing it in place. Maybe the low pressure allows the tubing to be a bit loose against the o-rings. Just a theory, I wish someone would test it out.

It might not be a major leak, but it may cause problems in the future. A single droplet may be the cause of a dead mobo or GPU.


----------



## housefly88

Do you have a pressure value installed? I ran into a simiular problem once. when the system was shut down the pressure would increase, and liquid would find its way out out of the fitting joints, not allot them but the weakest ones. I'm no Genius on the subject, but summed it up to the tubing not being able to expand, being in a closed loop. Once I added a pressure value fitting, the issue never happened again.


----------



## hatlesschimp

I have no experience with PC Watercooling but I am a Mechanical Fitter and worked for the local water corp for 5 years and now i work offshore with Oil & Gas. So I have extensive experience with tube bending/fitting, high pressure systems with pumps that have impellers the size of your living room.

Also please note I have not read anything on PC cooling nor have I read the thread fully.
This is just me putting my quick 2 cents in. If you think I might be helpful feel free to ask me some questions.

I myself can not trust the clear tubing that people use for PC Cooling! I could only imagine that it would become brittle, kink, not seal. Also probably made in china (dont get me wrong some good things come out of their of a high standard.). However we (work mates) often joke about the quality of the materials that get sold at the big hardware chains. They are oversize and undersize and can be a pest to get them to seal.
I would be inclined to go industrial with Swagelok but its hard to undo in tight spaces.With screw fittings make sure you screw the fittings on carefully because they cross thread (very fine threaded). You only need to nip them up to. No over tightening needed.
I also think that using high pressure poly for your lines would be good and the snap/push fittings work well sealing but sometimes the can be difficult to remove lines.
If you dont care about the look i would go industrial fittings from a local supplier.

http://www.swagelok.com/?gclid=CIz49aa2yrcCFeJMpgodjzUAUA

Ive thought about water cooling on my rig but at the moment i dont need it. Maybe near Xmas when the 8970's have been out for a bit i might get 4 of them and if i do I will go with what i know works! I dont know if i could risk a 5k system to some cheap bits and pieces from ebay via china.

Cheers


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> general question. does copper tubing or hard acrylic tubing have a higher chance of leaking?


I had a leak when doing the initial fit with aquatuning fittings. I hadn't pushed the pipe in the grabring fully.

Just make sure you push them in fully! I'd imagine the compression fittings have no chance of leaking if fitted properly?

All I can say is I've seen a big improvement using copper pipe over tubing?

I'd say the positives are

Stiff tubing lets you do clean runs. No kinking

Lower temps with copper. Prob no difference with acrylic?

& I'd say cons are

Not easy to drain? I should of added a drain valve?

Not as easy to assemble or disassemble?

Other than that I'd say go for it, the aquatuning fittings are really cheap aswell!

If you want to change the colour of the pipes. Just paint them lol? Clear pvc stains?


----------



## hatlesschimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> general question. does copper tubing or hard acrylic tubing have a higher chance of leaking?


It depends on the situation.

Copper is good if you want to fit plumb lines and leave them alone DONT DISTURB THEM. It also depends on what fittings your using as well that can change the experience.
With copper the more you disturb them the more chance they could leak. Its like anything i guess howerver if you do not disturb them you will be right as rain for years and years. Tubing on the other hand only continues to degrade as soon as you install them. Tubing is great for quick release and draining. But choose your tubing wisely! But they can all kink, split and not seal if they are poor quality. Being not installed correctly is the biggest issue I find. People think they have rammed them home for them to come flying out again when under pressure.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatlesschimp*
> 
> I have no experience with PC Watercooling but I am a Mechanical Fitter and worked for the local water corp for 5 years and now i work offshore with Oil & Gas. So I have extensive experience with tube bending/fitting, high pressure systems with pumps that have impellers the size of your living room.
> 
> Also please note I have not read anything on PC cooling nor have I read the thread fully.
> This is just me putting my quick 2 cents in. If you think I might be helpful feel free to ask me some questions.
> 
> I myself can not trust the clear tubing that people use for PC Cooling! I could only imagine that it would become brittle, kink, not seal. Also probably made in china (dont get me wrong some good things come out of their of a high standard.). However we (work mates) often joke about the quality of the materials that get sold at the big hardware chains. They are oversize and undersize and can be a pest to get them to seal.
> I would be inclined to go industrial with Swagelok but its hard to undo in tight spaces.With screw fittings make sure you screw the fittings on carefully because they cross thread (very fine threaded). You only need to nip them up to. No over tightening needed.
> I also think that using high pressure poly for your lines would be good and the snap/push fittings work well sealing but sometimes the can be difficult to remove lines.
> If you dont care about the look i would go industrial fittings from a local supplier.
> 
> http://www.swagelok.com/?gclid=CIz49aa2yrcCFeJMpgodjzUAUA
> 
> Ive thought about water cooling on my rig but at the moment i dont need it. Maybe near Xmas when the 8970's have been out for a bit i might get 4 of them and if i do I will go with what i know works! I dont know if i could risk a 5k system to some cheap bits and pieces from ebay via china.
> 
> Cheers


I think I remember looking at swagelok's but I think I had trouble finding the British tapered threads type.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Well we got plenty of them here. Maybe I could help you get them?


----------



## Krusher33

Too late. I went the acrylic route.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Thats ok next time maybe.


----------



## Snuddi

I am about to Watercool my Caselabs M10 case (see below specs). I have chosen to use copper pipeas and want to thank BNegative for this great thread.

I will get chrome plated 10mm tube and the fittings were the most diffucult part to choose, but I went with Festo push in fittings. Any thought's on that? Festo is world leader in the Pneumatik world and quality is superb.

I haven't disided wich one I will got for, the one with internal hex or the one below.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuddi*
> 
> I am about to Watercool my Caselabs M10 case (see below specs). I have chosen to use copper pipeas and want to thank BNegative for this great thread.
> 
> I will get chrome plated 10mm tube and the fittings were the most diffucult part to choose, but I went with Festo push in fittings. Any thought's on that? Festo is world leader in the Pneumatik world and quality is superb.
> 
> I haven't disided wich one I will got for, the one with internal hex or the one below.


After my experience I feel like putting the tube into the fitting after it is already in the block is pretty tough sometimes. I put the fittings on first and then screwed it in as one piece. So the interior hex ones wouldnt have worked for me. I also used acrylic tubing.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuddi*
> 
> I am about to Watercool my Caselabs M10 case (see below specs). I have chosen to use copper pipeas and want to thank BNegative for this great thread.
> 
> I will get chrome plated 10mm tube and the fittings were the most diffucult part to choose, but I went with Festo push in fittings. Any thought's on that? Festo is world leader in the Pneumatik world and quality is superb.
> 
> I haven't disided wich one I will got for, the one with internal hex or the one below.


Wow! Those actually look like superb fittings!! How much did you pay for them? Please let us know about how they were.


----------



## Snuddi

Yes they look good. Too bad they do not have any 45° in those.

I paid 1,6€ for the straight one's and 2,7€ for 90° angle.


----------



## Jetskyer

€1,60 a piece? That honestly can't be right.
I've looked around a bit and the second one (QS-F-G1/4-10) is £24,05 for 10. For people interested, part number is 193413.
Also available in 12mm OD, (QS-F-G1/4-12) which is £35,02 for 10 (part number 533848)

The smooth version (no hex) is only in 10mm OD (QS-F-G1/4-10-l) which goes for £24,82 for 10 (part number 533931)

So in essence I'm puzzled how you got these premium fittings for a price that looks more like what you'd pay for china-made parts.

[edit]typo's


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> €1,60 a piece? That honestly can't be right.
> I've looked around a bit and the second one (QS-F-G1/4-10) is £24,05 for 10. For people interested, part number is 193413.
> Also available in 12mm OD, (QS-F-G1/4-10) which is £35,02 for 10 (part number 533848)
> 
> The smooth version (no hex) is only in 10mm OD (QS-F-G1/4-10-l) which goes for £24,82 for 10 (part number 533931)
> 
> So in essence I'm puzzled how you got these premium fittings for a price that looks more like what you'd pay for china-made parts.


so they will work with 12mm OD acrylic pipe? im thinking of trying acrylic pipe on another build. I was going to use 10mm OD with a 6mm ID. I think ill go with the 12 OD & 8 ID.

cheers for the link! much appreciated!


----------



## Jetskyer

Possibly Snuddi has found a better deal on them, but knowing festo(ol) these fittings are the best you can get honestly. They're both rated for positive ánd negative pressure. -0,95 to 16 bar so I highly doubt they'll leak


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Anyone know of a USA supplier of festo push fits?


----------



## Jetskyer

Festo is (very) german so I highly doubt that, it's even hard to find suppliers here in Europe that sell to consumers, most of them only supply to companies.


----------



## Nomad692000

Here is there us site. shoot them an email and see if they would sell to you. Couldn't hurt.


----------



## Snuddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> €1,60 a piece? That honestly can't be right.
> I've looked around a bit and the second one (QS-F-G1/4-10) is £24,05 for 10. For people interested, part number is 193413.
> Also available in 12mm OD, (QS-F-G1/4-12) which is £35,02 for 10 (part number 533848)
> 
> The smooth version (no hex) is only in 10mm OD (QS-F-G1/4-10-l) which goes for £24,82 for 10 (part number 533931)
> 
> So in essence I'm puzzled how you got these premium fittings for a price that looks more like what you'd pay for china-made parts.
> 
> [edit]typo's


Sorry I didn't show the right photo. I got the NPQM type, not the QS-F as you link to. I have no clue what the diffrence is but have sent to festo an inquariy.

Here is the one I got, NPQM-D-G14-Q10 festo partno 558666. Even clener and better looking then the one I previously posted IMO.



And yes the price is right, I buy this through my company and we use A LOT of pneumatik parts per year so we have a good deal.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuddi*
> 
> Sorry I didn't show the right photo. I got the NPQM type, not the QS-F as you link to. I have no clue what the diffrence is but have sent to festo an inquariy.
> 
> Here is the one I got, NPQM-D-G14-Q10 festo partno 558666. Even clener and better looking then the one I previously posted IMO.
> 
> 
> 
> And yes the price is right, I buy this through my company and we use A LOT of pneumatik parts per year so we have a good deal.


My only concern with that specific model is that the area where you push in the copper tube looks a bit short.

Also, I just realized these are intended to be used with air. Despite that, would it be okay if water was flowing through it?


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Our animal sacrifices and ritual dances have been answered!!!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1397988/new-primochill-rigid-tubing


----------



## housefly88

@ Pillarofautum - If your looking for some festo like the above, shoot me a PM : )
Yes g1/4, push to fit, also qs series. Sorry, quote dosent always take on iPad


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuddi*
> 
> Sorry I didn't show the right photo. I got the NPQM type, not the QS-F as you link to. I have no clue what the diffrence is but have sent to festo an inquariy.
> 
> Here is the one I got, NPQM-D-G14-Q10 festo partno 558666. Even clener and better looking then the one I previously posted IMO.
> 
> And yes the price is right, I buy this through my company and we use A LOT of pneumatik parts per year so we have a good deal.


And a bit cheaper, not much, but still counts when you need a bunch.
Total length of 28.5 millimeters and thread length of 6.5 which seems as the perfect length to me.
Also the nominal diameter is a bit larger (8.0 vs 7.3) Might not make too much of a difference but still is nice









Available here for £2,51 a piece for 12mm OD (558667), and here for £2,15 a piece for the 10mm OD.

You got yourselves a nice deal man, that's for sure!


----------



## sakerfalcon

Thread length of 6.5mm seems a bit long.


----------



## Snuddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> My only concern with that specific model is that the area where you push in the copper tube looks a bit short.
> 
> Also, I just realized these are intended to be used with air. Despite that, would it be okay if water was flowing through it?


I think all of those push in fittings are orginaly made for air.

No just waiting for all the parts from Highflow.nl and then start building (The MIPS motherboard blocks have been delaying my order for 2 weeks now







)


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Thread length of 6.5mm seems a bit long.


I think about 1 mm gets lost in the O-ring. But if it's too long you could always shorten it a bit yourself, shouldn't be too hard since we're talking about brass fittings here. Although I bet most blocks have no problem taking 6,5mm threads.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuddi*
> 
> I think all of those push in fittings are orginaly made for air.
> 
> No just waiting for all the parts from Highflow.nl and then start building (The MIPS motherboard blocks have been delaying my order for 2 weeks now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I think you're right at that. Although I've seen a few mention "safe for food" so that would mean they're good for liquids as well. And since these fittings are rated for positive ánd negative pressure you don't have to worry about them leaking on you because the pressure is too low.
By the way, does you ordering at highflow by any chance mean you're from the netherlands as well? I'd absolutely love to use these push-fittings but that Kiowa site I listed doesn't deliver to anywhere other than the UK.


----------



## Snuddi

No I am from Iceland. How many would you need?


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *housefly88*
> 
> @ Pillarofautum - If your looking for some festo like the above, shoot me a PM : )
> Yes g1/4, push to fit, also qs series. Sorry, quote dosent always take on iPad


Thanks housefly! What do you mean? Do you have extras?


----------



## housefly88

Yes I do have extra : )


----------



## Snuddi

What kind of drain valve have you guys uesed with your 10mm copper loops? Isn't rather important to have a well thought out drain system as those copper pipes are propably not as easy to work with when draining.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuddi*
> 
> No I am from Iceland. How many would you need?


PM send


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snuddi*
> 
> What kind of drain valve have you guys uesed with your 10mm copper loops? Isn't rather important to have a well thought out drain system as those copper pipes are propably not as easy to work with when draining.


This is what I have and it works pretty well. Because my 240 rad has the fittings at the top some water gets trapped. I just unscrew the fitting in the res coming from the gpu and blow into it to clear the rest.

May not be ideal but it does the job.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

So, Primochill is coming out with fittings for acrylic tubing which can be seen here: 




The fittings are intended for use with 1/2" OD acrylic tubing. It will release near the 15th of June, and will sell at $6.95 a piece, but they will also sell it in 4-packs. My question is, does acrylic tubing in the US use the same dimensions/standards as the copper tubing? Will something like this work for 1/2" copper tubing bought from the Home Depot or Lowes in the US?

Its either that, or I stick to the Festo fittings.


----------



## sakerfalcon

1/2" copper tubing in the US is actually 5/8" outer diameter. The nominal size refers to the inner diameter of the pipe, so it won't work. Home Depot and Lowes don't stock actual 1/2" rigid pipe, only coiled.


----------



## housefly88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> So, Primochill is coming out with fittings for acrylic tubing which can be seen here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fittings are intended for use with 1/2" OD acrylic tubing. It will release near the 15th of June, and will sell at $6.95 a piece, but they will also sell it in 4-packs. My question is, does acrylic tubing in the US use the same dimensions/standards as the copper tubing? Will something like this work for 1/2" copper tubing bought from the Home Depot or Lowes in the US?
> 
> Its either that, or I stick to the Festo fittings.


Acrylic tubing sold in the states is sold by ID OD.

I wouldn't speculate on the PrimoChill fittings, until they are avaiable and can be purchased, to see if using copper is viable.

believe me I know the difficulties of sourcing the proper materials in the U.S. your best bet is going to be online ordering, not Home Depot.

One final recommendation I can give to everyone looking to do a ridgid style loop, is to
Pick the fittings you like, then source the tubing to match the fittings. Some fittings will work with both acrylic and copper. Acrylic is very inexpensive when compared to copper, I have used acrylic for mocking up some complex bends, then re created in copper so as not to waste a piece if I messed up a compound bend. (vertical 90 to horzintal to left 90


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *housefly88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> So, Primochill is coming out with fittings for acrylic tubing which can be seen here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fittings are intended for use with 1/2" OD acrylic tubing. It will release near the 15th of June, and will sell at $6.95 a piece, but they will also sell it in 4-packs. My question is, does acrylic tubing in the US use the same dimensions/standards as the copper tubing? Will something like this work for 1/2" copper tubing bought from the Home Depot or Lowes in the US?
> 
> Its either that, or I stick to the Festo fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> Acrylic tubing sold in the states is sold by ID OD.
> 
> I wouldn't speculate on the PrimoChill fittings, until they are avaiable and can be purchased, to see if using copper is viable.
> 
> believe me I know the difficulties of sourcing the proper materials in the U.S. your best bet is going to be online ordering, not Home Depot.
> 
> One final recommendation I can give to everyone looking to do a ridgid style loop, is to
> Pick the fittings you like, then source the tubing to match the fittings. Some fittings will work with both acrylic and copper. Acrylic is very inexpensive when compared to copper, I have used acrylic for mocking up some complex bends, then re created in copper so as not to waste a piece if I messed up a compound bend. (vertical 90 to horzintal to left 90
Click to expand...

If you use the method I outlined on the first post,there is no need for making an acrylic run first.

Pretty much all hard tube sold is sold by the OD as the fittings tend to be external fixing thus this is the most valid measurement.


----------



## housefly88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you use the method I outlined on the first post,there is no need for making an acrylic run first.
> 
> Pretty much all hard tube sold is sold by the OD as the fittings tend to be external fixing thus this is the most valid measurement.


Agreed : )

Please forgive me if my post above reads as a guide,I was not implying to do a mock up with acrylic, (like you have with pipe cleaners) , I only stated I have done so in the past, I'm by no means a pipe fitter, just someone with who made a lot of mistakes learning along the way.

Housefly


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *housefly88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you use the method I outlined on the first post,there is no need for making an acrylic run first.
> 
> Pretty much all hard tube sold is sold by the OD as the fittings tend to be external fixing thus this is the most valid measurement.
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed : )
> 
> Please forgive me if my post above reads as a guide,I was not implying to do a mock up with acrylic, (like you have with pipe cleaners) , I only stated I have done so in the past, I'm by no means a pipe fitter, just someone with who made a lot of mistakes learning along the way.
> 
> Housefly
Click to expand...

Cool beans mate


----------



## kgtuning

I am so doing copper hard pipe on the next build. You guys are making me rethink my setup


----------



## P?P?!

Thread has inspired my first venture in water cooling so much I had to buy everything immediately and here's the outcome of my first pipe. I can't wait to finish.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P?P?!*
> 
> Thread has inspired my first venture in water cooling so much I had to buy everything immediately and here's the outcome of my first pipe. I can't wait to finish.


looking good man. Quite the res!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thanks Darth Beavis for the mention on page 54 of Julys CPU mag for this thread,means a lot mate!


----------



## P?P?!

I'm in need of a fill port for my 10 mm pipe setup any suggestions ?


----------



## ToothBear

hello, am working on a build using stainless steel tube, as i use this tubing daily at work. the compression fittings for this tubing is quite large, and need quite bit of torque to get watertight. so i am considering using push fittings. have anyone successfully painted push fittings? is it hard to install complex bends with push fittings?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToothBear*
> 
> hello, am working on a build using stainless steel tube, as i use this tubing daily at work. the compression fittings for this tubing is quite large, and need quite bit of torque to get watertight. so i am considering using push fittings. have anyone successfully painted push fittings? is it hard to install complex bends with push fittings?


Painting should be no problem. For me I found that I had to install the push fitting s on my pipes first, then screw it in as once piece. I was using acrylic mind you but not a huge difference.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Anyone use the festo push fits?I'm about to order them by tonight, but I just wanted to know how those of you who used it feel about the quality and security of festos?


----------



## buildtoexcess

only festo QS-VO series permits air or water as medium offers straight plus G 1/4 but not short G 1/4 w/o-ring --- the sst series only offers R 1/4 thread or unusual longer G 1/4 style unsuitable for water blocks

only QS-F has appropriate short G 1/4 but only rated for air usage, not water

wait to order & take time to carefully view product data sheets --- nearly ALL festo fittings AIR ONLY due to internal corrosion issues leading to seal leakage


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Yeah, that's what I thought about festos. What model push fits would be the best? I'm using 12mm OD copper tubes.


----------



## buildtoexcess

festo offers a line of plastic resin coated aluminum tubing, siized to match the sealing ring - having a plastic coating allowing the formed grip ring to lightly "bite" to retain tubing

you may want to look up aqua fittings as alternative

for what it's worth - I have set up 2-3 test loops using festo QS-F G 1/4 + 8mm Straight fittings and pumped water + coolant inhibitor (various concentrations) in isolated test config for 3 months - internal plating ALWAYS corrodes - resulting in lip seal leakage

these were test loops in large rectangular tray - not in pc - so water temp always only slightly above ambient - in actual pc water temp higher, promoting more rapid corrosion of plating

last for G 1/4 w/o-ring check circle seal & others UK websites NOT usa


----------



## sakerfalcon

Aren't they just nickel plated brass?


----------



## buildtoexcess

re: festo correct most series are only nickle flashed -- 2-3 series nickel + chrome (example QS-VO approved for air + water)

air service only generally uses only nickel plating and will corrode when exposed to water (ie therefore dry air requirement)

the additional problem/issue is water block threading G 1/4 / Short Form / with o-ring in capture groove -- Long Form with exposed o-ring is NOT suitable compatible with water block threading...

I will talk w/Festo senior Regional Engineer Monday or Tuesday in Castle Peak Road. Kowloon office about G 1/4 base thread issue - approx. 1/3 ALL injection molding on global basis takes place asia & festo mold coolant fittings & lines/tubing... This is 2nd time I have spoken w/Festo

The Long Thread Form G 1/4 is older standard - Short Thread Form (for injection molding coolant fittings) is now used --- PC water cooling also uses Short Thread Form

The various Italian, Korean & Japanese one-touch fittings nickel plated air only service


----------



## Sentinel Prime

And then the Fire Nation attacked


----------



## buildtoexcess

my interest is in several drain lines installed in various unused waterblock ports / g 1/4 o-ring ports / using a one-touch type fitting @ waterblock + 8mm pu + one-touch type fitting w/ 5mm o-ring & custom cap nut as closure.

and so I am looking into festo & several others ex stock hong kong lol to the max...

actually *n*s*a* pushed the button 1st -- knew the man who headed the dsrv program to place deep cable taps -- resides in arlington's garden of stone... interesting world & all that... I'll wager s doesn't get his name on the wall behind the lobby...


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

I'm about to order the fittings for my WC setup, and I would like to get the green light from you guys before I buy them all.

I have the following setup:

1) Alphacool UT60 240mm radiator
2) Alphacool XT45 360mm radiator
3) Koolance TNK 501 Rev 1.1 Res
4) Swiftech MCP655-PWM
5) EK D5 X-Top - Acetal CSQ
6) Swiftech MCW82 Universal GPU Block
7) Swiftech Apogee HD CPU Block

8) 10mm copper tubing

As for the fittings, I'm thinking of getting the following:
9) 10mm g1/4 nickel push fit
10) 10mm g1/4 90 degree bends

My only concern with those fittings is that since most of my system is copper, will using something that is nickel plated cause problems (galvanic corrosion)?

Thank you.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> I'm about to order the fittings for my WC setup, and I would like to get the green light from you guys before I buy them all.
> 
> I have the following setup:
> 
> 1) Alphacool UT60 240mm radiator
> 2) Alphacool XT45 360mm radiator
> 3) Koolance TNK 501 Rev 1.1 Res
> 4) Swiftech MCP655-PWM
> 5) EK D5 X-Top - Acetal CSQ
> 6) Swiftech MCW82 Universal GPU Block
> 7) Swiftech Apogee HD CPU Block
> 
> 8) 10mm copper tubing
> 
> As for the fittings, I'm thinking of getting the following:
> 9) 10mm g1/4 nickel push fit
> 10) 10mm g1/4 90 degree bends
> 
> My only concern with those fittings is that since most of my system is copper, will using something that is nickel plated cause problems (galvanic corrosion)?
> 
> Thank you.


I'm using those fittings and they are nice, and I don't believe you'll experience any issues with the copper pipe and the fittings causing corrosion. Been using nickel and copper water blocks in combination and all has been fine, so long as the nickel was properly plated that is.



As you see copper and nickel are pretty close to each other on the chart. Maybe someone with more extensive knowledge can chime in also, I mostly skim information and I'm trying to remember this from way back, but corrosion shouldn't be an issue as they are well within each other. It depends but from what I'm reading in wiki in some environments you can have up to a .25 V index, where others .15 V is acceptable. From the sound of it, it's best to keep the indexes as close as possible. Now looking at the chart I see why some block makers may not like silver kill coils and prefer mixes with anticorrosion additives.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I doing the acrylic bending guide this weekend....
> 
> 
> 
> The silicone acts as a former,i use fuel line myself as it resists heat better.
> 
> The acrylic guide will be a separate thread.


Please do tell me what diamater is the silicon tube you guys are using. My acrylic pipes are the same size as the bitspower connections pipes (12mm OD, 10MM ID)
I looked all over on e-bay. BTW, I live in brazil, some things that you guys find trivial up in the north are absurdly hard to find here (sometimes to the point of having to import it D: )

thanks alot in advance


----------



## Krusher33

I bought 2 fuel lines from an auto parts store. One was 3/8" outside diameter but it wasn't thick enough so I bought 1/8" one too and fit it inside the bigger one.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Found this on reddit:

http://www.brightsideofnews.com/news/2013/6/26/digital-storm-releases-aventum-ii.aspx

Do those look like the Festo push-fits to anyone else? If these guys are using it, it looks like Festo is good for doing these kinds of projects?


----------



## Solonowarion

Those look like the phobya push fittings I got from ppcs to me. Which I absolutely love and are dirt cheap.

Also sell a rebranded variant at aquatuning.

Edit. The lock ring looks black. Didnt notice that.


----------



## sakerfalcon

If people recall, about a month and a half ago I was inquiring about the possibility of other push fittings to be used for copper pipes. Today, I received them. They are made for 12mm pipes.


So many fittings













Two can fit together no problem.


----------



## housefly88

Nice, I have simiular ones, they work great. Good find!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

What size of tubing works with those fittings?


----------



## sakerfalcon

They are made for 12mm pipes. I'll do some testing with them before using them in my build.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

I just bought 2 feet of 10mm copper tubes at $5 per foot and $3 total shipping from this website called OrphanEspresso. it looks like I bought I their last 2 feet and are out of stock and so the page won't load. here's the picture:

http://www.orphanespresso.com/zoomify.asp?catalogid=3860&img=assets/images/10mmcopperpipe.jpg

I've emailed them regarding restocking. I'll let you guys know about the quality of these pipes once I get them.


----------



## korruptedkaos

2 feet isn't going to get you very far lol.

im guessing its just for testing?


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

I wanted to buy 10 feet but they only had 2 feet left, which is what I bought.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

here we are! some metric copper pipes in the US!

12mm copper pipe: http://www.orphanespresso.com/12mm-Soft-Copper-Tubing--sold-by-the-foot_p_3962.html

10mm copper pipe:
http://www.orphanespresso.com/10mm-Soft-Copper-Tubing--sold-by-the-foot-_p_3860.html

since I have fittings for 10mm pipes, I will order 2-3 feet of them to see how they are. someone else can order a 12mm pipe?


----------



## Jetskyer

You can't (easily) use those thin-walled copper pipes. To use them in any fitting you need an insert so the pipes won't collapse under the pressure of the o-rings.
Even if you do get them correctly fitted in the fittings, the pipes will always look a bit off since you won't be able to get them 100% straight.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> You can't (easily) use those thin-walled copper pipes. To use them in any fitting you need an insert so the pipes won't collapse under the pressure of the o-rings.
> Even if you do get them correctly fitted in the fittings, the pipes will always look a bit off since you won't be able to get them 100% straight.


Can you please link the inserts? And what type of copper tubes would you recommend?
Dimensions wise, the orphan espresso copper tubing is 10mm OD 8mm ID, which is the same as the McMaster-Carr's dimensions.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> You can't (easily) use those thin-walled copper pipes. To use them in any fitting you need an insert so the pipes won't collapse under the pressure of the o-rings.
> Even if you do get them correctly fitted in the fittings, the pipes will always look a bit off since you won't be able to get them 100% straight.


Copper pipe collapse from rubber o rings?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> You can't (easily) use those thin-walled copper pipes. To use them in any fitting you need an insert so the pipes won't collapse under the pressure of the o-rings.
> Even if you do get them correctly fitted in the fittings, the pipes will always look a bit off since you won't be able to get them 100% straight.


Not true.

Inserts are for plastic tube,you will not need any inserts for copper/acrylic.


----------



## pvtdeath

I might never really use this method, but i was really amazed, good job and good guide ! keep it up!


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

can anyone make a recommendation for a cheap 10mm copper tube bender within the US? I was looking st amazon but wasn't able to find one.

Edit:

How is this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AM-TECH-3-IN-1-MINI-TUBE-PIPE-BENDER-PLUMBING-6-8-10MM-COPPER-PIPE-BRAND-NEW-/181156640340?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a2dc6f654

It looks like it will cost me $15 shipped.

Edit 2:

Also found one that looks very similar to the one from eBay:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-Tube-Bending-Tool-Lever-Style-T074/100160683#.UdmMDvmgV5k


----------



## Shogon

I'd spend more on a bender, I have that one from Home Depot and I really, really want a better one. It does okay, but get ready to wrestle (if you're weak like me







).


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> can anyone make a recommendation for a cheap 10mm copper tube bender within the US? I was looking st amazon but wasn't able to find one.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> How is this?
> 
> *http://www.ebay.com/itm/AM-TECH-3-IN-1-MINI-TUBE-PIPE-BENDER-PLUMBING-6-8-10MM-COPPER-PIPE-BRAND-NEW-/181156640340?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a2dc6f654*
> 
> It looks like it will cost me $15 shipped.
> 
> Edit 2:
> 
> Also found one that looks very similar to the one from eBay:
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-Tube-Bending-Tool-Lever-Style-T074/100160683#.UdmMDvmgV5k


I ordered that one about a week and a half ago. As soon as I'll get it I shall post in here how it is. My reasoning is that it was 15 bucks shipped, so if it works cool. If not, then I'm not out too much money either.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> I ordered that one about a week and a half ago. As soon as I'll get it I shall post in here how it is. My reasoning is that it was 15 bucks shipped, so if it works cool. If not, then I'm not out too much money either.


Yeah, that's my logic too, but that's about 4 days of lunch







. If I can, I'd rather get it locally. But please tell me how you feel about it's quality. Any ideas on when you'll receive it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shogon*
> 
> I'd spend more on a bender, I have that one from Home Depot and I really, really want a better one. It does okay, but get ready to wrestle (if you're weak like me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


How is the quality of the bending? Any kinks in the copper tubing? And are you using 10mm copper tubes?


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Yeah, that's my logic too, but that's about 4 days of lunch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If I can, I'd rather get it locally. But please tell me how you feel about it's quality. Any ideas on when you'll receive it?


Well the latest it was supposed to arrive was the 5th but that has come and gone. So hopefully soon, but there is no tracking number so I have no way of knowing.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Yeah, that's my logic too, but that's about 4 days of lunch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If I can, I'd rather get it locally. But please tell me how you feel about it's quality. Any ideas on when you'll receive it?
> How is the quality of the bending? Any kinks in the copper tubing? And are you using 10mm copper tubes?


No kinks and bends are alright as long as you apply pressure slowly and not massive heaves. Takes a bit of practice but you'll get a hang of it, and yes 10mm pipe is what I'm using.


----------



## housefly88

I might get flamed, but I bought a ridgid 612m, which is a very overpriced bender, my intentions were to use it then sell it, but it is such a nice bender, I kept it. After going through tons and tons of tubing, and messing up due to cheap benders, I bought the 612m,
and it has saved me in the long run, as I can bend it right the first time, every time.
Not saying a pricy bender is the answer, but consider that the proper tool, will save money in the long run in materials and frustration.
: )


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *housefly88*
> 
> I might get flamed, but I bought a ridgid 612m, which is a very overpriced bender, my intentions were to use it then sell it, but it is such a nice bender, I kept it. After going through tons and tons of tubing, and messing up due to cheap benders, I bought the 612m,
> and it has saved me in the long run, as I can bend it right the first time, every time.
> Not saying a pricy bender is the answer, but consider that the proper tool, will save money in the long run in materials and frustration.
> : )


So very true,cheap tools are cheap for a reason.


----------



## sakerfalcon

What makes a good pipe bender good?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> What makes a good pipe bender good?


Well machined and matched guides. the closer the tolerances,the better the bender


----------



## joostflux

My current progress:










EDIT: 100th post woot!


----------



## briddell

This pipe bender would be fine for 10mm pipe, right? It isn't that expensive, and my fittings are 10mm Festo fittings. 3/8" is a little over 9.5mm; I'm guessing that would fit? This is the kind of pipe bender I would need, correct?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> This pipe bender would be fine for 10mm pipe, right? It isn't that expensive, and my fittings are 10mm Festo fittings. 3/8" is a little over 9.5mm; I'm guessing that would fit? This is the kind of pipe bender I would need, correct?


No.
You need the exact guide size to keep the pipe from distorting,3/8 only works with 3/8

That is the type of bender you need tho.


----------



## briddell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No.
> You need the exact guide size to keep the pipe from distorting,3/8 only works with 3/8
> 
> That is the type of bender you need tho.


How about this bender, then? It is for up to 10mm pipe, and is a Rothenberger. However, it doesn't appear to be full sized; how would it compare to something like this, in terms of quality, or usability?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *briddell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No.
> You need the exact guide size to keep the pipe from distorting,3/8 only works with 3/8
> 
> That is the type of bender you need tho.
> 
> 
> 
> How about this bender, then? It is for up to 10mm pipe, and is a Rothenberger. However, it doesn't appear to be full sized; how would it compare to something like this, in terms of quality, or usability?
Click to expand...

Out of the 2 i would take the Rigid bender,Rothenberger are good as well tho


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not true.
> 
> Inserts are for plastic tube,you will not need any inserts for copper/acrylic.


I stand corrected. Thought I had read that around here, must have misunderstood.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> I stand corrected. Thought I had read that around here, must have misunderstood.


I thought i did as well. Arent there inserts for soft copper tubing.


----------



## EPiiKK

Can plain copper pipe oxidize by time inside a computer case, or should i get pipe with some coating (if that is the right term) on it? Today at work i noticed some copper pipes going on the wall and they were oxidized (or just dirty now that i think of it) and looked horrible, i dont want my friends PC look like that at any point

I dont know if oxidization is the same as rust in english, i'm not good with english when it comes to stuff like chemistry, physics etc


----------



## Jetskyer

Copper can indeed oxidize, that's why giant copper structures (like the statue of liberty) look quite green-ish. This however takes a long time, and very harsh environmental conditions.
The insides of the tubing (and your copper blocks) can get some minor oxidation (looks like black staining) although that doesn't matter at all and actually protects the copper.

The outside of your tubing can stain a bit as well, but nothing a little metal polish and a rag won't fix. As long as you keep the tubing free from (acid) fingerprints you'll be good for a very long time. However, if you are still worried, you can always use a clear lacquer to keep the copper in top condition without any form of maintenance needed. Although I myself find clear copper way more beautiful than copper with any kind of protective layer.


----------



## EPiiKK

Thanks for the informative reply, i was planning on build with vinyl gloves on the whole time to keep the pipes clean from fingerprints


----------



## EPiiKK

Would one good pump be enough for a system that's gonna have GPU and CPU cooled with 420 and 120 rad and copper pipe. The build might end up having quite many 90 degree and 45 degree turns, which i think restricts flow, but will it restrict it too much.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EPiiKK*
> 
> Would one good pump be enough for a system that's gonna have GPU and CPU cooled with 420 and 120 rad and copper pipe. The build might end up having quite many 90 degree and 45 degree turns, which i think restricts flow, but will it restrict it too much.


A bit off topic, but a single decent pump should do fine in that situation. I'm using a single PMP450-S in my build, and I'm running two water blocks, two 420mm radiators, and a 480mm radiator.


----------



## deafboy




----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*


Fantastic build! Impressive with the bends









MetallicAcid


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*


How exact did you measurements have to be in order to get those kinds of results? That looks very awesome!


----------



## deafboy

Thanks. Most of them were within a millimeter or so, there was a little give, but the CPU area in particular was sub millimeter. I redid things a lot, haha.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> You can't (easily) use those thin-walled copper pipes. To use them in any fitting you need an insert so the pipes won't collapse under the pressure of the o-rings.
> Even if you do get them correctly fitted in the fittings, the pipes will always look a bit off since you won't be able to get them 100% straight.


I didn't have any problem straightening my coiled tubing with the Vice/vicegrip and hammer method







lol. You can't tell what is the coiled vs straight tube in my build.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> I didn't have any problem straightening my coiled tubing with the Vice/vicegrip and hammer method
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol. You can't tell what is the coiled vs straight tube in my build.


Vice and hammer huh? You sure your 'tubing' isn't a flat bar now?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Vice and hammer huh? You sure your 'tubing' isn't a flat bar now?


lol


----------



## Michalius

So the benders that I'm currently using are giving me a bend radius that is just way too fricken huge. I need something a bit smaller like the ones in the OP. The only issue is that I'm in the US, and they only seem to be found in the UK. Damn imperial units screwing everything up again.

So this is what I'm currently using: http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-36942-10-mm-Capacity-Bender/dp/B001HWSHPU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374527938&sr=8-1&keywords=10mm+bender

This is what I'm thinking about getting: http://www.amazon.com/Silverline-Mini-Bender-6-10Mm-270Mm/dp/B000LFVF12/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1374527938&sr=8-5&keywords=10mm+bender

They look almost identical to the ones in the OP.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Be aware,the mini benders are cheap go a reason Michalius
They normally need heavy wet and dry forming in the guides to make good clean bends


----------



## Michalius

Anyone have any rec's on UK shops that would ship internationally?

The Rothenberger 10mm benders are seemingly unavailable here.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Anyone have any rec's on UK shops that would ship internationally?
> 
> The Rothenberger 10mm benders are seemingly unavailable here.


I might have a spare set kicking around,I will take a look.


----------



## EnigmaMH

I'm just wondering if copper tubing would look good with those fittings.


----------



## Michalius

Anyone have an opinion on these guys?

http://www.cometsupply.com/mp/IMPERIAL+STRIDE+TOOL/pm/IMS364FHBM10MM/r/ga/

Looking like a much tighter bend radius than my Rigid 10mm benders.



The one I want to bring attention to is the pump->GPU pipe.

That middle section is literally the smallest sraight line I can get while doing 90 bends on either side. As a result, I had to bend the pipe back down, which makes the lines look a bit funky.

In addition, I had to use 90 degree fittings in order to route the rad->rad pipe on the backside of the case. The bend radius was too large to have enough room for fittings on the rad and case wall.


----------



## kanaks

Many thanks are in order for that great how-to!
I am considering using inox tubing for my upcoming build. However I have a ton of questions









I found 10mm OD Inox tubing at the local market but there are some variations and I got confused, There are 10mm OD with wall thickness of 1, 1.5 and 2mm what is the correct choice?

Moreover I found two different types one says 304L and the other 316L. I don't have a clue what this could be!

Can the Inox tubing bended like the copper ones (using the same tools)?

The fittings that I am willing to buy are the typical push in fittings for 10mm tubing
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p5348_10mm-G1-8-plug-fitting----nickel-plated.html


----------



## housefly88

You will need a 610m by ridgid for that tubing. Wall thickness should be 1mm, or 1.5, I'll be honest, your better off using copper and then plating, then stainless. I can show you some pics, of 12mm stainless I bent. 1mm mistake, and you will need to bend a fresh tube, there is no give in stainless. I spent way to much time and even more money playing with stainless. If your going for a straight run, and using a fitting adapter for an angle you can get away with it, but you will need a stainless cutter as well.
Stainless is a bear.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *housefly88*
> 
> You will need a 610m by ridgid for that tubing. Wall thickness should be 1mm, or 1.5, I'll be honest, your better off using copper and then plating, then stainless. I can show you some pics, of 12mm stainless I bent. *1mm mistake, and you will need to bend a fresh tube, there is no give in stainless.* I spent way to much time and even more money playing with stainless. If your going for a straight run, and using a fitting adapter for an angle you can get away with it, but you will need a stainless cutter as well.
> Stainless is a bear.


I would tend to agree on this,SS is a pain as there is no room for error and polishing it is a new world of mess and pain.

If you have a hydraulic bender then I would say go for it.


----------



## kanaks

Thanks for the collaboration mates







I am going to start with copper and maybe i ll work my way towards stainless steel


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quick question for you guys! I have all the pieces to my loop. The waterblocks are attached, the fittings are on, and the radiators with fans are in place. I'm just waiting for my shipment of more copper tubes and a bender which won't be for another week or two.

I was wondering, if I were to keep the side panel off and point a standalone fan I use to keep my room cool and aim it towards my PC and have my A/C on, will I be able to use my PC for gaming? The fan is a honeywell and moves a lot of air. It tends to turn my room into a wind tunnel at the highest setting.


----------



## Avonosac

Everything in me wants to say no, your CPU/GPU would fry quickly.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Lol, no it is then!


----------



## EPiiKK

I would never ever do that, asthe heat doesnt move away from the cpu well without a heatsink


----------



## EPiiKK

Just picked up some pipe, benders and cutter, aaaaaaw yeeeeah


----------



## Escovado

I started a new thread, but I was advised to post my question here. So, here's a cross post:

I've been water cooling my PC for 5 years now. I've always used the flexible tubing with no issues. I'm starting a new build, and after reading through this pipe bending thread, I want to try my hand at using copper tubing.

I'm using the 10mm OD (8mm ID) copper tubing mentioned here (from McMaster-Carr) and I'm trying to mate it with these fittings from Aquatuning (also mentioned here):

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p6607_10mm-G1-4-plug-fitting----black-nickel.html

I'm experimenting with a new loop in an empty case with only the reservoir, pump and radiators. When any water passes through one of these fittings, the water just squirts out from where the copper tube inserts into the fitting. It happens without any pressure either since the fill port I made (using these fittings) leaks when I pour water down it.

I make sure the end of the tube was clean with no burs. And when I push the tube in, I feel a click and the tube stays locked in until I push down the ring that pops up. The ring sometimes doesn't pop up, the tube still feels secure.

What the heck am I doing wrong? I hope I'm just doing a something stupid and I didn't get the wrong parts.

Any clues would be appreciated. Thanks.

BTW - This copper tubing is going to look awesome...once I can get the fittings to stop mis-behaving.








.


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> When any water passes through one of these fittings, the water just squirts out from where the copper tube inserts into the fitting. It happens without any pressure either since the fill port I made (using these fittings) leaks when I pour water down it.
> 
> I make sure the end of the tube was clean with no burs. And when I push the tube in, I feel a click and the tube stays locked in until I push down the ring that pops up. The ring sometimes doesn't pop up, the tube still feels secure.
> 
> What the heck am I doing wrong? I hope I'm just doing a something stupid and I didn't get the wrong parts.
> 
> Any clues would be appreciated. Thanks.
> 
> BTW - This copper tubing is going to look awesome...once I can get the fittings to stop mis-behaving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


The only time I have had water squirting out with these fittings is when I haven't inserted the tubing far enough in, or properly. I believe the ring has to pop back up, just as if there wasn't any pipe installed. Also some of my rings are able to move, while some do not. From my experience these fittings can be a paint in the butt.


----------



## Escovado

When I look down the threaded end with a tube inserted, it looks as though it can't make it past the o-ring. Aquatuning just emailed me that those fittings are for soft tubing. I think the fitting is supposed to compress the tube little and the copper tube won't cooperate. I don't think I have the right fittings. Dang it.


----------



## EPiiKK

Those very same fittings were used in the op 0.o


----------



## xH2L

Probably an easy one for you guys to spot out but... my copper tube keeps kinking when I make my 90 degree bends. Totally sucks...

The tubing is: 3/8" OD, .311" ID, .032" Wall


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> When I look down the threaded end with a tube inserted, it looks as though it can't make it past the o-ring. Aquatuning just emailed me that those fittings are for soft tubing. I think the fitting is supposed to compress the tube little and the copper tube won't cooperate. I don't think I have the right fittings. Dang it.


I used that exact setup for mine and the only time I had leaks was when the tubing was not inserted all the way. Trust me, that tubing will fit you just might have to use a little force


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> I used that exact setup for mine and the only time I had leaks was when the tubing was not inserted all the way. Trust me, that tubing will fit you just might have to use a little force


*SUCCESS!!!*

I had to smooth down the outer rim of the cut in the tube and then really push it in hard to get it past the o-ring. Now the fitting doesn't leak!


----------



## xH2L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> *SUCCESS!!!*
> 
> I had to smooth down the outer rim of the cut in the tube and then really push it in hard to get it past the o-ring. Now the fitting doesn't leak!


Hey Escovado, you said you bought copper pipe from McMaster right? Which piping did you buy from them?


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xH2L*
> 
> Hey Escovado, you said you bought copper pipe from McMaster right? Which piping did you buy from them?


I bought this:

Metric Copper Tubing 10 mm OD, 8 mm ID, 1 mm Wall, 10 Meter Coil


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xH2L*
> 
> Probably an easy one for you guys to spot out but... my copper tube keeps kinking when I make my 90 degree bends. Totally sucks...


And...I use this to bend that copper tubing:

Metric Single-Size Tube Bender for 10mm Tube OD, 24mm Bend Radius

It ain't cheap, but works like a charm.


----------



## xH2L

Cool stuff dude. That's some expensive bender ya got yourself!


----------



## Escovado

You think that one is expensive? This one costs more than double:

Hand Tube Bender, 10 mm Tube OD, 24 mm Bend Radius

That one is cool because you can realign the handle when bending past 90 degrees to have the same mechanical advantage at angles less than 90 degrees.


----------



## housefly88

I have the 12mm version. The handle option is cool, as it allows you to bend past 90* with out having to move the tube. It comes in handy when the tube your bending has a slight spring back. If I bend to 92*ish then I'll get a perfect 90 without having to readjust the tube or bender.
Like mentioned before quality tools make your job easier.

: )


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *housefly88*
> 
> I have the 12mm version. The handle option is cool, as it allows you to bend past 90* with out having to move the tube. It comes in handy when the tube your bending has a slight spring back. If I bend to 92*ish then I'll get a perfect 90 without having to readjust the tube or bender.
> Like mentioned before quality tools make your job easier.
> 
> : )


----------



## housefly88

Very cool video, I'm not sure if you have purchased the swagelok yet, also check out the ridgid 612m bender. It's exactly the same, but may be slightly less expensive.


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *housefly88*
> 
> Very cool video, I'm not sure if you have purchased the swagelok yet, also check out the ridgid 612m bender. It's exactly the same, but may be slightly less expensive.


It's about $60 cheaper than the Swagelok!


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> I bought this:
> 
> Metric Copper Tubing 10 mm OD, 8 mm ID, 1 mm Wall, 10 Meter Coil


How did you straighten your copper tube?


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> How did you straighten your copper tube?


Method 1:






Method 2






I bought one of the tools in the second video. The tool works very well, but the max size they supported when I ordered mine was 10mm OD.

If you have a workbench and a vice available, method 1 is the most economical.

My 2 cents worth.

Any more suggestions?

[Edit: fixed a typo]


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> Method 1:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Method 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought one of the tools in the second video. The tool works very well, but the max size they supported when I ordered mine was 10mm OD.
> 
> If you have a workbench and a vice available, method 1 is the most economical.
> 
> My 2 cents worth.
> 
> Any more suggestions?
> 
> [Edit: fixed a typo]


Oh, sweet!!!!!! I was actually looking for that tool, but the last time I checked it would have cost me $60+ to order it. Now its $50. My only question is, since I will have this shipped to the US, how much is shipping going to cost? How much did t cost for you?

Also, thanks so much for linking that video about straightening with vice grips! I read the post here some time ago and I thought you were supposed to beat the copper tube with the hammer, lol. But now it makes a lot more sense. I will definitely try this method if the straightener tool comes out to more than $50.


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Oh, sweet!!!!!! I was actually looking for that tool, but the last time I checked it would have cost me $60+ to order it. Now its $50. My only question is, since I will have this shipped to the US, how much is shipping going to cost? How much did t cost for you?
> 
> Also, thanks so much for linking that video about straightening with vice grips! I read the post here some time ago and I thought you were supposed to beat the copper tube with the hammer, lol. But now it makes a lot more sense. I will definitely try this method if the straightener tool comes out to more than $50.


The straighter tool for a 10mm OD tube was a total of $48.30 USD (£31.09 GBP) shipped from the UK to Northern California. It took about a week for the tool to get here via USPS (UK Royal Mail). Their ordering system is a little mickey mouse: you have to specify the intended tubing size by entering it in the PayPal special instructions field. And they didn't give me any tracking information either. You don't need a PayPal account, just a credit card. Good luck!


----------



## Escovado

One caveat regarding the straightening tool: The rollers do leave slight surface marks on the tubing. In other words, you can tell it went through a rolling mechanism. It doesn't look bad, but I thought I'd mention it just so you know. If you're going to sand and polish the tubing anyway, then it won't make any difference. The vise / hammer method should leave the outer surface of the tubing more pristine.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Btw, has anyone tried the Primochill Ghost compression fitting (the one intended for their acrylic tubes) with copper tubing?


----------



## Scottagecheeze

Hi all,

So I have been planning my water loop for a few days now, and having gone through the whole thread I only have one question. Since I'm planning to use copper pipes, which are obviously not flexible like typical tubes, what is the best setup for draining a loop.

I have a C70 case and have a XSPC dual bay reservoir/pump. I will have a 360 rad on top and for the time being I will only being cooling my CPU.

Any input is much appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## Avonosac

A drain port at the bottom of your loop. You can add a quick disconnect on it as well to lengthen the tube so you don't need to do any awkward juggling of the box, or you simply can add the drain port itself.


----------



## Escovado

Ditto that. Put a drain port at the lowest point in your loop.


----------



## omegasama

can suggest me a cheap / good tube bender , will be using bitspower crystal link as fittings ?

Regards


----------



## DarthBaggins

Thanks to this looks like I'll be using aluminum/copper tubing for my water cooling mainly due to cost as I can get the un flared tubing from my parts accounts w/ my shop, Woot Woot!!







Now I was thinking on using a flaring tool to attach the fittings more securely to the lines.

Also thanks for the write up on this too.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Thanks to this looks like I'll be using aluminum/copper tubing for my water cooling mainly due to cost as I can get the un flared tubing from my parts accounts w/ my shop, Woot Woot!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also thanks for the write up on this too.


Do not use anything aluminum!!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Why would that be? just due to heat or corrosion of the metal?


----------



## Willi

galvanic corrosion would destroy the loop, the electronic components and pretty much anything that touched the water rather quickly
NEVER, EVER mix aluminium and copper unless you want a horror story as an ending to your watercooling setup.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Then that makes sense, never knew it thanks for clarifying. So I'll stick w/ copper lol.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omegasama*
> 
> can suggest me a cheap / good tube bender , will be using bitspower crystal link as fittings ?
> 
> Regards


Where are you located (US or EU?) and what size tubing will you be using?

If you're in the US, you'll most likely have to go on eBay and order 10 or 12mm benders if you're looking to spend under $20. In the US, there are some decent benders like from Rigid that will cost you $60+.


----------



## omegasama

i will have to buy from ebay and i will be using copper tubing 12/10. One other question will it fit well with the bitspower sli link ( c47 )

Regards


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Yes, the crystal link will fit the 12mm pipe, but the only problem with it is that, although many people have used it without complaints, it doesn't offer much security to the pipe. Its a push fit but its pretty shallow. I have some with me and doing a rough measurement shows that the crystal link only accommodates 3/8 of an inch. Personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable using them as my fittings cause something like a good bump is enough to spring a pipe out of it. Now, if you're careful enough, its a great fitting to use because of its aesthetics.

Whats pretty popular in this thread is the aquatuning push fits. They only come in 8 or 10mm diameters but there are threads out there that show that 10mm vs 12mm vs anything bigger doesn't really affect cooling performance too much. On top of that, you can push your pipes in about 5/8" and there's things collapsible ring inside the fitting that also secures the pipe. You'll need more force to nudge the pipe out of the fitting vs your crystal link. I'd much rather go with the aquatuning cause its more secure, but in the end its up to you.


----------



## omegasama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Yes, the crystal link will fit the 12mm pipe, but the only problem with it is that, although many people have used it without complaints, it doesn't offer much security to the pipe. Its a push fit but its pretty shallow. I have some with me and doing a rough measurement shows that the crystal link only accommodates 3/8 of an inch. Personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable using them as my fittings cause something like a good bump is enough to spring a pipe out of it. Now, if you're careful enough, its a great fitting to use because of its aesthetics.
> 
> Whats pretty popular in this thread is the aquatuning push fits. They only come in 8 or 10mm diameters but there are threads out there that show that 10mm vs 12mm vs anything bigger doesn't really affect cooling performance too much. On top of that, you can push your pipes in about 5/8" and there's things collapsible ring inside the fitting that also secures the pipe. You'll need more force to nudge the pipe out of the fitting vs your crystal link. I'd much rather go with the aquatuning cause its more secure, but in the end its up to you.


Thanks for the info mate . I think i will go with acrylic bending , it will be more clean and beautiful , one last thing can you tell me where i can find the silicone cord for the bending ?

Regards


----------



## gdubc

Thanks to B Negative, the answers to all your questions can be found here: *Acrylic pipe bending 101*


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

McMaster Carr sells them online.


----------



## Scottagecheeze

Anyone know a website to get a good but relatively cheap pipe bender for 10 mm in the US. I am having a hard time finding one for mm and accidentally bought one that was in inches.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Harbor Freight


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottagecheeze*
> 
> Anyone know a website to get a good but relatively cheap pipe bender for 10 mm in the US. I am having a hard time finding one for mm and accidentally bought one that was in inches.


What size bender did you get?


----------



## Scottagecheeze

It says its a 4 in 1 bender and can bend 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 OD, the tube just sits on top of the largest size and not in the groove.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottagecheeze*
> 
> Anyone know a website to get a good but relatively cheap pipe bender for 10 mm in the US. I am having a hard time finding one for mm and accidentally bought one that was in inches.


There's a 3 in one bender from home depot made by BrassCraft. It looked like the same exact ones sold from the international eBay sellers. One of our users here had used the Home Depot one and said that it bent his pipes perfectly. Just use the 3/8" part of the bender.

This is the 6, 8, 10mm one from eBay:
www.ebay.com/itm/Sealey-Brake-Pipe-Bender-3-in-1-Automotive-6-8-10mm-/121159806361?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c35afed99

Here's the one from Home Depot for $13:
www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-Tube-Bending-Tool-Lever-Style-T074/100160683#.UdmMDvmgV5k

Here are the most recent pictures from his build, who used the HomeDepot one:
www.overclock.net/t/1383503/mod-build-thread-c70-master-mavis-first-time-modder/50#post_20414152

I'm planning on going the Home Depot route myself. And in case if it doesn't work as best as I want it to, I can always return it.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottagecheeze*
> 
> It says its a 4 in 1 bender and can bend 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 OD, the tube just sits on top of the largest size and not in the groove.


Dang! You need at least a 1/2" bender. Should be able to pick one up pretty cheap.


----------



## omegasama

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AM-TECH-3-IN-1-MINI-TUBE-PIPE-BENDER-PLUMBING-6-8-10MM-COPPER-PIPE-BRAND-NEW/181156640340?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D1225487963257961343%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D121159806361%26

AM-TECH 3 IN 1 MINI TUBE PIPE BENDER PLUMBING 6 8 10MM COPPER PIPE : arround $ 11

Regards


----------



## Willi

Guys, I need help
I got a 10mm ID/12mm OD acrylic tube, but because my country sucks, I simply cant find a 10mm silicon tube anywhere in order to start bending. I've looked for it in hobby/aeromodelism shops but the thickest they have is 8mm. Can anyone send me just enough to star practicing bends? I'm willing to pay for any and all expenses, from the pipe to the shipping.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Guys, I need help
> I got a 10mm ID/12mm OD acrylic tube, but because my country sucks, I simply cant find a 10mm silicon tube anywhere in order to start bending. I've looked for it in hobby/aeromodelism shops but the thickest they have is 8mm. Can anyone send me just enough to star practicing bends? I'm willing to pay for any and all expenses, from the pipe to the shipping.
> Thanks in advance.


Local auto shops don't have gasline tubing? That should be around 10mm...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Local auto shops don't have gasline tubing? That should be around 10mm...


Most of the time I know my shop mainly carries a rubberized fuel line but we tend to order metal tubing as needed per application.


----------



## housefly88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Guys, I need help
> I got a 10mm ID/12mm OD acrylic tube, but because my country sucks, I simply cant find a 10mm silicon tube anywhere in order to start bending. I've looked for it in hobby/aeromodelism shops but the thickest they have is 8mm. Can anyone send me just enough to star practicing bends? I'm willing to pay for any and all expenses, from the pipe to the shipping.
> Thanks in advance.


Ask for windshield wiper tubing If it has white writing on it, give it a good cleaning, or the writing will leave marks.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Guys, I need help
> I got a 10mm ID/12mm OD acrylic tube, but because my country sucks, I simply cant find a 10mm silicon tube anywhere in order to start bending. I've looked for it in hobby/aeromodelism shops but the thickest they have is 8mm. Can anyone send me just enough to star practicing bends? I'm willing to pay for any and all expenses, from the pipe to the shipping.
> Thanks in advance.


Wrong thread,there is a separate acrylic thread.

And the tube you are looking for is 9mm not 10mm OD. 8mm could be ok,give it a go.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quick question! I was hoping some of you titans of watercooling can answer this for me!

Picture time:



Let's say that A is the pump and that B is the radiator. The distance from inside the fitting in A to right above B on the X axis is 225mm and the distance from inside of fitting B to right where A is 50mm (just look at the picture). The bend radius, let say, is 25mm as measured by B-Neg's first post on this thread.

With all these measurements, let's say further that I have the ability of the Roman goddess Mensa (goddess of measurement







), and that I can measure everything to the exact 0.1mm and that there will be no wastage of material. With all that being said, what length of tubing should I cut?

(My geomatery isn't exactly the strongest)

Is it as simple as 225+50mm? idk why, but the bend and it not being an abrupt 90 degrees is whats confusing me. If this is the case, and we cut a 275mm length tubing, then we need to put the bend's starting point at the 200mm mark (if measuring from A to B), right?


----------



## housefly88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Quick question! I was hoping some of you titans of watercooling can answer this for me!
> 
> Picture time:
> 
> 
> 
> Let's say that A is the pump and that B is the radiator. The distance from inside the fitting in A to right above B on the X axis is 225mm and the distance from inside of fitting B to right where A is 50mm (just look at the picture). The bend radius, let say, is 25mm as measured by B-Neg's first post on this thread.
> 
> With all these measurements, let's say further that I have the ability of the Roman goddess Mensa (goddess of measurement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), and that I can measure everything to the exact 0.1mm and that there will be no wastage of material. With all that being said, what length of tubing should I cut?
> 
> (My geomatery isn't exactly the strongest)
> 
> Is it as simple as 225+50mm? idk why, but the bend and it not being an abrupt 90 degrees is whats confusing me. If this is the case, and we cut a 275mm length tubing, then we need to put the bend's starting point at the 200mm mark (if measuring from A to B), right?


Thinking too hard about it : )

hypotheticaly, if your bender had a radius of 25mm then yes you would place the 0 mark at 200mm and then bend your 90*

In b-negatives tutorial, notice he measures, marks, bends, and then cuts. He also works with pipe in his job I believe.

I do not work with pipe, and am no authority, but most if not all benders have the radius stamped on them, and if you have never bent pipe before, you will want to have scrap to practice with.

In practical application, it's a lot easier to remove a mm or two from the length, than to come up short.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *housefly88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Quick question! I was hoping some of you titans of watercooling can answer this for me!
> 
> Picture time:
> 
> 
> 
> Let's say that A is the pump and that B is the radiator. The distance from inside the fitting in A to right above B on the X axis is 225mm and the distance from inside of fitting B to right where A is 50mm (just look at the picture). The bend radius, let say, is 25mm as measured by B-Neg's first post on this thread.
> 
> With all these measurements, let's say further that I have the ability of the Roman goddess Mensa (goddess of measurement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), and that I can measure everything to the exact 0.1mm and that there will be no wastage of material. With all that being said, what length of tubing should I cut?
> 
> (My geomatery isn't exactly the strongest)
> 
> Is it as simple as 225+50mm? idk why, but the bend and it not being an abrupt 90 degrees is whats confusing me. If this is the case, and we cut a 275mm length tubing, then we need to put the bend's starting point at the 200mm mark (if measuring from A to B), right?
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking too hard about it : )
> 
> hypotheticaly, if your bender had a radius of 25mm then yes you would place the 0 mark at 200mm and then bend your 90*
> 
> In b-negatives tutorial, notice he measures, marks, bends, and then cuts. He also works with pipe in his job I believe.
> 
> I do not work with pipe, and am no authority, but most if not all benders have the radius stamped on them, and if you have never bent pipe before, you will want to have scrap to practice with.
> 
> *In practical application, it's a lot easier to remove a mm or two from the length, than to come up short.*
Click to expand...

Pretty much this,make a bend then cut to suit,you cant bend an exact length with any accuracy


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *housefly88*
> 
> Thinking too hard about it : )
> 
> hypotheticaly, if your bender had a radius of 25mm then yes you would place the 0 mark at 200mm and then bend your 90*
> 
> In b-negatives tutorial, notice he measures, marks, bends, and then cuts. He also works with pipe in his job I believe.
> 
> I do not work with pipe, and am no authority, but most if not all benders have the radius stamped on them, and if you have never bent pipe before, you will want to have scrap to practice with.
> 
> In practical application, it's a lot easier to remove a mm or two from the length, than to come up short.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Pretty much this,make a bend then cut to suit,you cant bend an exact length with any accuracy


Okay, awesome! Thanks!

So I guess it needs to go like this:
1- Measure where to make the bend
2- Make the bend
3- Hold the copper pipe over to where it needs to insert. Measure it and cut about 5mm extra.
4- Cut again for the final size

I guess after doing a couple of cuts, I would be able to make the appropriate cuts without needing to leave 5mm extra?

The only reason I ask is because I have very little space to work with at the bottom of my case. Because one of the pipes (which is about 1m in length) is going to have about .75 meters sticking out after the bend. and it would be very difficult to make the measurement here.


----------



## EPiiKK

Quick question. Whats the OD for the barbs of the fittings in OP?
I mean the part that is screwed in the block/rad/whatever.


----------



## housefly88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EPiiKK*
> 
> Quick question. Whats the OD for the barbs of the fittings in OP?
> I mean the part that is screwed in the block/rad/whatever.


G 1/4 thread


----------



## Escovado

Here's an update to my venture into copper tube bending. I'm building a new system with a Rampage IV extreme motherboard, a i7-4930K CPU (Ivy Bridge-E) in a Case Labs TH10 case. I'm pretty happy with the results so far.


----------



## housefly88

Looks good









I know how difficult trying to route pipe, on a rive can be with the dual board blocks.


----------



## Escovado

Thanks! Actually, routing the tubes on the motherboard was the easiest part. The hardest tubes were the ones spanning the case (the photo doesn't show the tubing on the top radiators) since it was a lot more difficult to get accurate measurements.


----------



## Escovado

Finished the water loop this evening. Fixed a couple of leaks. The water is circulating. Time to start wiring it all up.


----------



## Elmy

http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Elmnator/media/20130801_102538.jpg.html

http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Elmnator/media/20130801_102526.jpg.html


Just put a 2nd 7990 in the loop so I have to redo the piping again...





 this is what they are pushing now .... 5 Asus VG248QE debezeled


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elmy*
> 
> http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Elmnator/media/20130801_102538.jpg.html?sort=3&o=27
> 
> http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Elmnator/media/20130801_102526.jpg.html?sort=3&o=28
> 
> 
> 
> Just put a 2nd 7990 in the loop so I have to redo the piping again...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is what they are pushing now .... 5 Asus VG248QE debezeled


Holy crap that looks sick! Btw, have you adjusted the resolution to compensate for the bezels?


----------



## Escovado

Looks awesome x2.


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Holy crap that looks sick! Btw, have you adjusted the resolution to compensate for the bezels?


I haven't done bezel compensation because I don't like the idea of the enemy hiding in the bezel... The bezel is less than a 1/2 "

And thanks 

http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Elmnator/media/20130801_102457.jpg.html?sort=3&o=30

Here is a front view with AMD Ruby Assassin etched on the front Plexi. I still have to install leds on the edge of the plexi to make the etched image stand out more. Like I said... Still working on it. I want to start a worklog on here but I am sponsored and I heard that they charge you for sponsored worklogs :-(


----------



## The_chemist21

Would a 15.875mm OD copper pipe leak in a 16mm push-in fitting?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> Would a 15.875mm OD copper pipe leak in a 16mm push-in fitting?


It might. Although you could just find some fatter o rings and replace them.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> It might. Although you could just find some fatter o rings and replace them.


I would definitely find a snug fitting o-ring to put in the fitting as well. there is a great chance you'll get a leak, minimal but still.


----------



## iBored

Are the insides of the copper pipe plated as well?


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Are the insides of the copper pipe plated as well?


All copper pipe is copper inside and out......its made with 100% copper


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Are the insides of the copper pipe plated as well?


Haha think i should rephrase my question.
If you were to buy a chrome plated copper pipe, or chrome plate the copper pipe after bending, does the interior matter if its chrome plated as well?


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Haha think i should rephrase my question.
> If you were to buy a chrome plated copper pipe, or chrome plate the copper pipe after bending, does the interior matter if its chrome plated as well?


Chrome plated copper pipe will crack when you go to bend it. You will have to have it chrome plated after you bend all your pipe. You can stick something in the end of each pipe to help keep the chrome out of the inside of the pipe.

Example of copper pipe after it has been chrome plated.

http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Elmnator/media/20130710_153701.jpg.html?sort=3&o=34


----------



## xr1st1anos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elmy*
> 
> Chrome plated copper pipe will crack when you go to bend it. You will have to have it chrome plated after you bend all your pipe. You can stick something in the end of each pipe to help keep the chrome out of the inside of the pipe.
> 
> Example of copper pipe after it has been chrome plated.
> 
> http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Elmnator/media/20130710_153701.jpg.html?sort=3&o=34


I believe his actual question is if whether the copper pipe gets plated on both sides of the pipe(outside and inside)?

My guess would be depending as to your instructions to the plating company. Electroplating would plate both inside and out.

Here's a short vid I found about electroplating copper with nickel at home.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xr1st1anos*
> 
> I believe his actual question is if whether the copper pipe gets plated on both sides of the pipe(outside and inside)?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My guess would be depending as to your instructions to the plating company. Electroplating would plate both inside and out.
> 
> Here's a short vid I found about electroplating copper with nickel at home.


Yep exactly. Cos if the copper pipe is chrome or whichever plated internally, wouldn't the plating breakdown and mess up the coolant or the components?


----------



## xr1st1anos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Yep exactly. Cos if the copper pipe is chrome or whichever plated internally, wouldn't the plating breakdown and mess up the coolant or the components?


Not really. Nickel plated products are pretty safe to use with coolants. That's why you have nickel plated copper waterblocks (EKWB) etc.

Chrome plating is a little different. There's a few ways to do it. Some use Cobalt. I personally would not do it (on the inside pipe diameter) and have never tried it.


----------



## iBored

Then comes the next question, if you leave the copper piping as it is internally, would it oxidize and pollute the loop as well? Sorry I've got so many questions.

My girlfriend gave me a bunch of those copper coins from Disneyland and I thought it'll be cool to do copper piping with those coins mounted in the rig as well. And I'm having trouble keeping these coins shiny and polished.


----------



## xr1st1anos

Inside a PC Case? It would take a long time for the inside of the pipe to oxidise and cause problems. Nothing to the point to have a negative impact. Far longer than the 'lifespan' of a computer.

Mixing metals is another topic. Corrosion via electrolysis between dissimilar metals is something to keep in mind.

Here's some light reading for further info:

http://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-ii/

If you mean you want to polish the outside of the copper pipe to a shine then want to keep it that way, buff it till shiny then spray it with a clear coat of Krylon.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elmy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Haha think i should rephrase my question.
> If you were to buy a chrome plated copper pipe, or chrome plate the copper pipe after bending, does the interior matter if its chrome plated as well?
> 
> 
> 
> Chrome plated copper pipe will crack when you go to bend it. You will have to have it chrome plated after you bend all your pipe. You can stick something in the end of each pipe to help keep the chrome out of the inside of the pipe.
> 
> Example of copper pipe after it has been chrome plated.
> 
> http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Elmnator/media/20130710_153701.jpg.html?sort=3&o=34
Click to expand...

My tube shown in the very first post is already plated,no external radius crazing at all tho YMMV.

The interior doesnt actually get a coat of chrome,unless the anode is actually inside it as far as im aware.

I wouldnt worry about chrome breaking down,it has great corrosion resistance.


----------



## housefly88

This may have been mentioned eariler, but when chrome plating copper, there should be a layer of nickel before the chrome plating is applied. The chrome is an added barroer of protection, the nickel is the shine and luster.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I decided to go with rigid acrylic for my next build but this is what I wa splanning before the switch.

If ya gonna do home plating and don't wanna be running for batteries all the time. Reagent will last for 17 baths at 3 oz per quart of water.

Power Supply ($61.29) : http://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-HY1803D-Variable-Power-Supply/dp/B000CSQK5E/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2
Reagent ($22.14): http://www.amazon.com/Nickel-Ammonium-Sulfate-Grade-Gram/dp/B00BR6VNDO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1381873588&sr=8-5&keywords=nickel+sulfate
Basin ($6.29): http://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-Polypropylene-Non-Latching-Rectangular/dp/B004MDM8T2/ref=pd_sim_e_2
Nickel Plate (*): http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-nickel-sheets/=oy9o9s

* Only need maybe 2" x 2" plate .... buy the 12 x 1/4" piece and share w/ 5 friends


----------



## Solonowarion

Thanks for the info. Might experiment with cpu blocl sometime


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Hey guys. I'm about to buy a waterblock for the r9-290x. The two options available to me are an acetal+nickel and acetal+copper EK blocks. I'm gravitating towards the acetal+nickel because it will match better with my rig. I'm also planning on using copper tubes. Would this be a problem or should I stick to actual+copper?


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm about to buy a waterblock for the r9-290x. The two options available to me are an acetal+nickel and acetal+copper EK blocks. I'm gravitating towards the acetal+nickel because it will match better with my rig. I'm also planning on using copper tubes. Would this be a problem or should I stick to actual+copper?


nah should be fine, all my blocks are nickel on mine! no problems here, I think its just silver & alluminium you cant have with nickel, so no kill or alluminium rads.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Okay that's great! My rads are alpha cool copper 45 and 60 (i think), cpu block is Swiftech copper (apogee hd), my pump is a Swiftech d5, and im using aquatuning fittings. And now a nickel+acetal ek block for the gpu. It shouldnt be a problem if I used a silver kill coil in this project, correct?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> nah should be fine, all my blocks are nickel on mine! no problems here, I think its just silver & alluminium you cant have with nickel, so no kill or alluminium rads.


----------



## korruptedkaos

no you should not use silver kill coil with nickel, use a biocide instead! im not to sure on it? but I remember reading somewhere you shouldn't use kill coil with nickel?


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Oh crap! I misread what you said. yeah, so I really want to use a nickel block for the looks. What is a low maintenance coolant solution I can use? I'm thinking I'll have to use DI water, biocide, and some sort of a protecting agent to prevent corrosion of the metal, correct?


----------



## korruptedkaos

mayhems premix's are ok? all though they did have some bad stuff a year or so ago! Distilled & biocide is all that's really needed + a dye, thats If you want it, im not too good with all the mixing of acid dyes etc. I just buy premixed stuff lol!


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

So distilled water + dead water should be okay? The mayhem website says they recommend changing their x1 every 9 months or so. How long can I leave distilled water and biocide?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I think its the same time frame as long as you did a proper flush prior to install


----------



## Scottagecheeze

Quick question about installing my copper tubing. I am very new to the whole watercooling itself, but what I was wondering is if you install the fittings in the block, then insall the tubing, or do I put the fittings on my copper tubing then screw them into the blocks. Probably a stupid question but I just want to make sure. Also, should I use thread seal tape?

Thanks


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottagecheeze*
> 
> Quick question about installing my copper tubing. I am very new to the whole watercooling itself, but what I was wondering is if you install the fittings in the block, then insall the tubing, or do I put the fittings on my copper tubing then screw them into the blocks. Probably a stupid question but I just want to make sure. Also, should I use thread seal tape?
> 
> Thanks


Using the 10mm OD copper tubing and the fittings from Auqatuning, I found it easier to attach the fittings to the tubes first and then screw them into place. The reason being that it can take a little bit of force to push the tube all the way into the fitting so it passes the o-ring. That was much easier for me to do with the fitting not screwed into the component. Experiment.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> Using the 10mm OD copper tubing and the fittings from Auqatuning, I found it easier to attach the fittings to the tubes first and then screw them into place. The reason being that it can take a little bit of force to push the tube all the way into the fitting so it passes the o-ring. That was much easier for me to do with the fitting not screwed into the component. Experiment.


Same here.


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> Using the 10mm OD copper tubing and the fittings from Auqatuning, I found it easier to attach the fittings to the tubes first and then screw them into place. The reason being that it can take a little bit of force to push the tube all the way into the fitting so it passes the o-ring. That was much easier for me to do with the fitting not screwed into the component. Experiment.


I completely agree with this as well. I'd say 90% of mine I put the tubing in the fitting first rather than having the fitting already in the block. Although a few (mostly the 45 degree angles) It was easier for me to have the fitting(s) already installed on the rads. So just like Escovado said, experiment and see which works best for you. Best of luck


----------



## Scottagecheeze

Thanks, as far as thread lock, is it needed? And also, as far as coolant goes would this work?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14159/ex-liq-189/EK_EKoolant_Premium_Liquid_Cooling_Premix_Coolant_-_1L_-_Clear.html?tl=g30c337s1547

Thanks


----------



## kgtuning

I'm kind of surprised that spinning the fitting on the tubing like that doesn't damage the teeth and or oring. But hey if it works, it works.


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I'm kind of surprised that spinning the fitting on the tubing like that doesn't damage the teeth and or oring. But hey if it works, it works.


It hasn't damaged it for me since the teeth grab it in a way to keep the tube from being pulled out, but not rotated. The o-ring as well. I did find that pulling the tube in and out a few times (using the unlock ring) will damage the o-ring and make it leak. Regardless, *the less the tube is rotated and inserted the better.*

EDIT:

More tips:

When screwing the fittings in with the tubes pre-inserted, don't tighten one side down completely and then the other. Instead, start each thread on both ends of the tube and tighten each side down a little at a time. This helps seating everything better especially if your tube cutting and bending was not a perfect fit.

Also, if you are new to this, buy a lot more tubing than you think you will need because you are going to make a lot of mistakes until you get the feel of it.


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottagecheeze*
> 
> Thanks, as far as thread lock, is it needed? And also, as far as coolant goes would this work?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14159/ex-liq-189/EK_EKoolant_Premium_Liquid_Cooling_Premix_Coolant_-_1L_-_Clear.html?tl=g30c337s1547
> 
> Thanks


1. You don't need thread lock; it shouldn't come loose. Also, the o-ring in the threaded side of the fitting is what prevents the leaks. Tighten it down snug with your fingers. Be very careful using a wrench because you can damage the water block if you torque it down too much.

2. Yeah, that coolant will work. I've used plain distilled water with some biocide for years without any problems. I have not used nickel-plated water blocks, just plain bare copper. Everything else like dye additives is just bling bling IMHO. I'm not knocking bling bling if you want that though.


----------



## Scottagecheeze

I will probably just use some distilled water and biocide then, I don't need anythig special. However, my GPU block is nickel plated copper if that makes any kind of difference.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Can someone please proofread this for me?



Parts list (that I've already bought):

1. Radiator1 Alphacool 360mm XT45
2. Radiator2: Alphacool 240 UT60
3. Pump w/ EK Block: Swiftech D5 PWM
4. Res: TNK-501
5. CPU BlocK: Swiftech Apogee HD, i5-3570k

Now, I need to decide on a waterblock for the GPU. These are the two options I have: Copper or Nickel-plated copper. Between the two which would you suggest? I will be using copper pipes in my setup. With that, just to prevent mixing of metals, I think copper may be a better choice, but I feel that Nickel option will match better with my black/white theme I have going on. If I were to go copper block, then everything will be copper/copper+brass in my system. So with this, I can just drop in a silver kill coil in the res and fill my system with distilled water. Otherwise, if I were to go the nickel route, I will have to buy a Mayhem's premixed solution.

Your suggestions please.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Nickel and copper are ok in the same loop,dont worry.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Thanks, B-Neg. But I won't be able to use a silver kill coil, is that correct?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Thanks, B-Neg. But I won't be able to use a silver kill coil, is that correct?


If the plating of the blocks is good and solid then yes you can,but EK and Koolance will invalidate your warranty if you tell them.


----------



## tiborrr12

Tell me about a person who's RMA has been denied in the last two years because he was using silver kill coil?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Tell me about a person who's RMA has been denied in the last two years because he was using silver kill coil?


Just going by your site:
Quote:


> The replacement form can be filled in until July 31st, and starting with August 1st EK will no longer replace products with such damage as the reason of the damage will be widely known and customers still using these additives will do it under their own risk. The replacement request can also be possible only for the purchases with invoices dated up to June 12th 2011.


This includes Silver as per your TC.

I never said I know any one that has been denied,im just going BY YOUR OWN SITE!
If im wrong then a simple post explaining why i am wrong would suffice.


----------



## alancsalt

Try not to get overheated gentlemen or warnings and/or infractions may result.


----------



## tiborrr12

Haha, take a chill pill buddy, this was for pre-EN blocks two- and half year ago. I see you had to dig really deep to pull this out









So again, who's block wasn't replaced while stile under warranty (assuming they had the receipt) because he or she was using silver in the last two years?


----------



## tiborrr12

And before anyone says I steered the conversation off-topic, here's my copper piping. Using same tools as grumpy B-NEG, just with less patience:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Haha, take a chill pill buddy, this was for pre-EN blocks two- and half year ago. I see you had to dig really deep to pull this out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So again, who's block wasn't replaced while stile under warranty (assuming they had the receipt) because he or she was using silver in the last two years?


I'm not grumpy at all,im amazed at your lack of professionalism...
Seeing you obviously struggle with English,let me repeat..

I never said or implied that I know of any user that had an RMA refused because of silver and nickel in a loop.
I said EK and Koolance CAN deny RMA for a silver coil as per the tc provided by both companies.

If this is incorrect then feel free to correct it but it does not mean you can abuse me.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I said EK and Koolance CAN deny RMA for a silver coil as per the tc provided by both companies..


Oh really? I thinks that reads "will", not "can".
Quote:


> If the plating of the blocks is good and solid then yes you can,but EK and Koolance will invalidate your warranty if you tell them.


You can condescend me with your lessons about English language all you want.

The fact of the matter is that you are making things up. You have pulled out this statement from August 2011, you are clinging to it and spreading misinformation. Go to our website, check terms of use. There's no such policy effective, at least for the last two years, that would give us the right to deny the RMA because silver was used in the system.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> And before anyone says I steered the conversation off-topic, here's my copper piping. Using same tools as grumpy B-NEG, just with less patience:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


wow, very cool! Nice copper tubing work.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I said EK and Koolance CAN deny RMA for a silver coil as per the tc provided by both companies..
> 
> 
> 
> Oh really? I thinks that reads "will", not "can".
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> If the plating of the blocks is good and solid then yes you can,but EK and Koolance will invalidate your warranty if you tell them.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You can condescend me with your lessons about English language all you want.
> 
> The fact of the matter is that you are making things up. You have pulled out this statement from August 2011, you are clinging to it and spreading misinformation. Go to our website, check terms of use. There's no such policy effective, at least for the last two years, that would give us the right to deny the RMA because silver was used in the system.
Click to expand...

Correction,Will not Can.

Doesnt mean im making things up as you have just said yourself that my comment is from an earlier statement from yourselves...so its not made up is it nor is it misinformation seeing as that statement was based on a declaration by yourselves,regardless of date.

So,EK are no longer saying silver will ruin our loops even tho the 'testing' you spent money on says different? Is this the official EK policy now?

And none of your comments excuse your rudeness,all you had to do was correct me rather than the BS you have contaminated my thread with.


----------



## tiborrr12

I had the whole answer written when my PC decided to freeze.









tl;dr version: Yes, our position is that silver and PT nuke is bad for your loop, especially when running straight distilled water. We strongly advice against using it. There are tons of good premixes out there, including Primochill, Mayhems, Ice Dragon as well as EKoolant.

And yes, we do not deny RMA because somebody has used silver - simply because it's very hard to prove it.

I will not comment any further on rudeness. I am sorry if I have offended you, it was not my intention. But you know you are not an 'angel' when it comes to good manors, your hostility towards certain companies on certain forums is well known. I just replied in the fashion you are (were?) familiar with. I hope you see how irritating it is to communicate like that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> wow, very cool! Nice copper tubing work.


Thanks man!







It's a 2-stage -100°C cascade refrigerator for CPU/GPU.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I only have animosity for Phobya and Mayhems,not EK.
My only complaint,as you well know,was Eddies behaviour during the plating fail...and I wasn't alone across MANY forums.

Tbh,I have given up being friendly with you and yours now,I have praised you often enough as a reasonable guy and defended you when you have been attacked in the WC Club but that ends now,I won't be looking the other way when EK 'advertise' in any of the threads im in anymore.

Good day.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> Thanks man!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a 2-stage -100°C cascade refrigerator for CPU/GPU.


That's pretty awesome. Is that annealed (soft)copper tubing? I'd love to see one of these in person.


----------



## tiborrr12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Tbh,I have given up being friendly with you and yours now,I have praised you often enough as a reasonable guy and defended you when you have been attacked in the WC Club but that ends now,I won't be
> looking the other way when EK 'advertise' in any of the threads im in anymore.


I have no problems with you, really, it's just when people talk stuff that's isn't true I'm being personally insulted. I worked my ass off to turn the company's policy around and made it grow 80-85% since the nickel PR nightmare.

Regards,
N.

@kgtuning: Yes, it's soft annealed refrigeration tubing. Here's the tubing from another angle. I tried to keep it as straight as possible but, like I said before, I don't have as much patience as some of you. Triple digit zeros is what is important to me


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I have no problems with you, really, it's just when people talk stuff that's isn't true I'm being personally insulted. I worked my ass off to turn the company's policy around and made it grow 80-85% since the nickel PR nightmare.
> 
> Regards,
> N.


Reading B-Neg's comment, it didn't sound like he was bad mouthing. He was just stating what he knew about it. In fact, he gave me more confidence about EK's quality than many of the other sites. There's lots of misinformation out there in other forums and "how to watercool" guides that state you shouldn't mix nickel with silver otherwise EK will not honor the warranty. So coming from you, I can use distilled water and a silver kill coil in a loop that contains copper, copper/brass, and a nickel plated block, and this shouldn't cause any damages or chipping of the nickel plating, correct?


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Reading B-Neg's comment, it didn't sound like he was bad mouthing. He was just stating what he knew about it. In fact, he gave me more confidence about EK's quality than many of the other sites. There's lots of misinformation out there in other forums and "how to watercool" guides that state you shouldn't mix nickel with silver otherwise EK will not honor the warranty. So coming from you, I can use distilled water and a silver kill coil in a loop that contains copper, copper/brass, and a nickel plated block, and this shouldn't cause any damages or chipping of the nickel plating, correct?


oh dear, what have I started here? I was sure you are not meant to use silver kill coil in loop's with nickel, I guess with the new plating process it does not really matter? either way warranty or no warranty I personally wouldn't do it?

pillar, just don't use silver with nickel! Simple!


----------



## kgtuning

My new Ridgid 408 1/2" benders, let the fun begin.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EK_tiborrr*
> 
> I have no problems with you, really, it's just when people talk stuff that's isn't true I'm being personally insulted. I worked my ass off to turn the company's policy around and made it grow 80-85% since the nickel PR nightmare.
> 
> Regards,
> N.
> 
> 
> 
> Reading B-Neg's comment, it didn't sound like he was bad mouthing. He was just stating what he knew about it. In fact, he gave me more confidence about EK's quality than many of the other sites. There's lots of misinformation out there in other forums and "how to watercool" guides that state you shouldn't mix nickel with silver otherwise EK will not honor the warranty. So coming from you, I can use distilled water and a silver kill coil in a loop that contains copper, copper/brass, and a nickel plated block, and this shouldn't cause any damages or chipping of the nickel plating, correct?
Click to expand...

There is some history Pillar,sadly people dont see the nice things i have been saying but just want to leap to the worst interpretation.

As long as the plating is solid to begin with then there will be no issues using a kill coil and nickel.

Basically,the Silver attacks the copper,not the Nickel. Any pinholes in the plating allows the copper substrate to erode underneath the Nickel,thats why it flakes rather than pitting as the nickel has nothing to grip to.


----------



## YaLu

Hi,
I'm going to take Push-In 10mm fittings and I'm going to use Stainless Steel (AISI 316) 10/8mm pipes ...may go well or not?
Or it's better to use copper pipes and then paint them?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaLu*
> 
> Hi,
> I'm going to take Push-In 10mm fittings and I'm going to use Stainless Steel (AISI 316) 10/8mm pipes ...may go well or not?
> Or it's better to use copper pipes and then paint them?


Stainless will be fine,just its not as easy to work with as copper.


----------



## YaLu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Stainless will be fine,just its not as easy to work with as copper.


I know... I would get a similar result to the Digital Storm's Aventum II
I guess you saw the pictures that I sent you in pm


----------



## Scottagecheeze

So I am near the end of getting my loop put together and I just realized that I need 1 more fitting. The only problem is the only place I know to get 10mm push fittings in on Aquatuning, but for me to get one fitting cost 20 dollars for shipping. I can't bring myself pay 20 dollars for a 3 to 4 dollar item. So, does anyone know another website, preferably in the US that fittings that will work with 10mm copper piping. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## Shogon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottagecheeze*
> 
> So I am near the end of getting my loop put together and I just realized that I need 1 more fitting. The only problem is the only place I know to get 10mm push fittings in on Aquatuning, but for me to get one fitting cost 20 dollars for shipping. I can't bring myself pay 20 dollars for a 3 to 4 dollar item. So, does anyone know another website, preferably in the US that fittings that will work with 10mm copper piping. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks


I found these, but they are out of stock sadly :/.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1200&products_id=33853

I'm trying to find some on FrozenCPU.com but all they have is the Koolance fittings that only work with imperial not metric.


----------



## Scottagecheeze

I just bit the bullet and ordered the stuff I needed, to justify it I added some tools. Good thing I have bill me later on PayPal


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Alright so I ordered a 10mm metric bender from eBay for $17. The seller used 2 day selling, shipped Friday night with usps and I still haven't receieved. Checked the tracking and today usps shipped it to some other state after it came into my state. Usually I pay the extra $10 for anyone but usps to ship it. It doesn't look like I'll get it for a while. Does anyone wanna sell me theirs or let me borrow theirs?


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Hey guys. Quick question. I was using the 10mm aquatuning fittings. I wanted to see how deep the tubing went into the fitting so I pushed one all the way in and now it's stuck. It won't come out. Any ideas how to do this?


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Hey guys. Quick question. I was using the 10mm aquatuning fittings. I wanted to see how deep the tubing went into the fitting so I pushed one all the way in and now it's stuck. It won't come out. Any ideas how to do this?


You have to push the release ring in as you pull the tube out.

BTW - the tube goes 19mm into the fitting when its fully seated/inserted.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Hey guys. Quick question. I was using the 10mm aquatuning fittings. I wanted to see how deep the tubing went into the fitting so I pushed one all the way in and now it's stuck. It won't come out. Any ideas how to do this?


Thats the reason I put the fittings on both ebds of the tube then screw it in. Same aafor taking the pipe out. Unscrew then take the pipe out.

Squeeze the ring down and pull. Very hard to do when attached inside pc.


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Thats the reason I put the fittings on both ebds of the tube then screw it in. Same aafor taking the pipe out. Unscrew then take the pipe out.
> 
> Squeeze the ring down and pull. Very hard to do when attached inside pc.


I concur.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Then how do you size and bend the pipes? I use the fittings to form the pipes and then I try to jam them in.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Then how do you size and bend the pipes? I use the fittings to form the pipes and then I try to jam them in.


Oh this is after you have bent the pipes and everything is ready to go.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Hey guys. Quick question. I was using the 10mm aquatuning fittings. I wanted to see how deep the tubing went into the fitting so I pushed one all the way in and now it's stuck. It won't come out. Any ideas how to do this?
> 
> 
> 
> Thats the reason I put the fittings on both ebds of the tube then screw it in. Same aafor taking the pipe out. Unscrew then take the pipe out.
> 
> Squeeze the ring down and pull. Very hard to do when attached inside pc.
Click to expand...

You have probably cut the pipe with the bend too close to the fitting,the pipe deforms slightly and gets stuck if its too close.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You have probably cut the pipe with the bend too close to the fitting,the pipe deforms slightly and gets stuck if its too close.


That happened to me with acrylic. Had to crack it to remove.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Here are some progress pics of my build:


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Here are some progress pics of my build:


looking pretty nice there. they do the aquatuning fittings in black? I would have got them myself with your colour scheme?

are you going to paint the pipes too? that gray colour on the mobo & sleeving would pull it all together really nice?


----------



## outbookinsis

yes,Even if I'll probably never get that far into water cooling to use this, awesome guide bro! thank you


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outbookinsis*
> 
> yes,Even if I'll probably never get that far into water cooling to use this, awesome guide bro! thank you


Thanks,glad you found it useful.


----------



## Hikaru12

Great guide. I'm planning on doing this for a desk PC build I'm planning in the upcoming few months. So I'm guessing there's no real reason to go for 12MM tubing since the fittings are hard to find in the US. The only one's I've been able to find that are push-in are the E22's.

Neg, you also said that bending soft tube should be done by hand. How would I go about getting good bends that way? I've seen people bend their acrylic tubing around a socket from a socket wrench but I don't know how I would hand bend copper?

Also, what gets the cleaner looking bends? Hard or soft tubing? Thanks.


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hikaru12*
> 
> Great guide. I'm planning on doing this for a desk PC build I'm planning in the upcoming few months. *So I'm guessing there's no real reason to go for 12MM tubing since the fittings are hard to find in the US. The only one's I've been able to find that are push-in are the E22's.*
> 
> Neg, you also said that bending soft tube should be done by hand. How would I go about getting good bends that way? I've seen people bend their acrylic tubing around a socket from a socket wrench but I don't know how I would hand bend copper?
> 
> Also, what gets the cleaner looking bends? Hard or soft tubing? Thanks.


Bitspower has got you covered on that front. Check PerformancePCs and FrozenPC. Either will get you sorted









EDIT: Forgot to bold.


----------



## Hikaru12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> Bitspower has got you covered on that front. Check PerformancePCs and FrozenPC. Either will get you sorted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Forgot to bold.


Are you referrring to the Bitspower SLI fittings? If so, I'd rather not go with those since I've read through this entire thread and it doesn't seem like they work too well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hikaru12*
> 
> Great guide. I'm planning on doing this for a desk PC build I'm planning in the upcoming few months. So I'm guessing there's no real reason to go for 12MM tubing since the fittings are hard to find in the US. The only one's I've been able to find that are push-in are the E22's.
> 
> Neg, you also said that bending soft tube should be done by hand. How would I go about getting good bends that way? I've seen people bend their acrylic tubing around a socket from a socket wrench but I don't know how I would hand bend copper?
> 
> Also, what gets the cleaner looking bends? Hard or soft tubing? Thanks.


You kind of gently form it with a spring rather than putting them in a bender. Depends on the wall thickness really
Aquatuning do cheap push fits,they are what I use. C47's look good but im skeptical of the weight loading of the tube in them when the board is mounted,people use them and say they are fine tho.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hikaru12*
> 
> Great guide. I'm planning on doing this for a desk PC build I'm planning in the upcoming few months. So I'm guessing there's no real reason to go for 12MM tubing since the fittings are hard to find in the US. The only one's I've been able to find that are push-in are the E22's.
> 
> Neg, you also said that bending soft tube should be done by hand. How would I go about getting good bends that way? I've seen people bend their acrylic tubing around a socket from a socket wrench but I don't know how I would hand bend copper?
> 
> Also, what gets the cleaner looking bends? Hard or soft tubing? Thanks.


Bitspower C47 for the push on and G/1/4 ..... the most useful ones are:

Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47)

Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Multi-Link Adapter (BP-MBWP-C68)

Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R)

Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 45 Degree G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB45R)

Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black T Adapter (BP-MBTMB)

Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Male w/ Inner G1/4 (BP-MBQDMIG14)

Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread (BP-MBQDFG14)

Bitspower G1/4" Mini Valve - Matte Black (BP-MVV-MBK)

Bitspower G1/4 Male to Female Extender - 30mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C63)

Bitspower G1/4" Low Profile Matte Black Stop Plug w/ O-Ring (BP-MBWP-C09)

Bitspower Dual G1/4" Male / Male Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C08)

You'll find all of them in the pic below (just finished filling coolant about an hour ago):



The hardest part to get straight in ya head is that for example .....

Coming outta a component, the 90 degree fitting has G1/4 on one end and push on for the other .... to do a tube to tube 90 ya need a C47, a C68 and and MB90R.

As for copper .... have a plumber friend ?









http://www.sears.com/imperial-triple-head-tube-bender-with-roto-lok-trade/p-00947299000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hikaru12*
> 
> Great guide. I'm planning on doing this for a desk PC build I'm planning in the upcoming few months. So I'm guessing there's no real reason to go for 12MM tubing since the fittings are hard to find in the US. The only one's I've been able to find that are push-in are the E22's.
> 
> Neg, you also said that bending soft tube should be done by hand. How would I go about getting good bends that way? I've seen people bend their acrylic tubing around a socket from a socket wrench but I don't know how I would hand bend copper?
> 
> Also, what gets the cleaner looking bends? Hard or soft tubing? Thanks.


Here's some more fitting options, under the *Copper tubing* link on FCPU


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Here's some more fitting options, under the *Copper tubing* link on FCPU


Here is my set of those fittings..


----------



## SamNicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Bitspower C47 for the push on and G/1/4 ..... the most useful ones are:
> 
> Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47)
> 
> Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Multi-Link Adapter (BP-MBWP-C68)
> 
> Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R)
> 
> Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 45 Degree G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB45R)
> 
> Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black T Adapter (BP-MBTMB)
> 
> Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Male w/ Inner G1/4 (BP-MBQDMIG14)
> 
> Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread (BP-MBQDFG14)
> 
> Bitspower G1/4" Mini Valve - Matte Black (BP-MVV-MBK)
> 
> Bitspower G1/4 Male to Female Extender - 30mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C63)
> 
> Bitspower G1/4" Low Profile Matte Black Stop Plug w/ O-Ring (BP-MBWP-C09)
> 
> Bitspower Dual G1/4" Male / Male Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C08)
> 
> You'll find all of them in the pic below (just finished filling coolant about an hour ago):
> 
> 
> 
> The hardest part to get straight in ya head is that for example .....
> 
> Coming outta a component, the 90 degree fitting has G1/4 on one end and push on for the other .... to do a tube to tube 90 ya need a C47, a C68 and and MB90R.


WOW your build looks so COOL







Phanteks Enthoo really-really nice case.
Thanks for sharing those fittings list


----------



## Hikaru12

So do I just have to eyeball it when I hand bend the copper? Just want to make sure because it's hard to get a perfect 90 by hand. I probably will end up going with the Phobya fittings especially if they make elbow fittings and the like because I live in the U.S. so I think the AquaTuning would be expensive because of their tarrifs.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hikaru12*
> 
> So do I just have to eyeball it when I hand bend the copper? Just want to make sure because it's hard to get a perfect 90 by hand. I probably will end up going with the Phobya fittings especially if they make elbow fittings and the like because I live in the U.S. so I think the AquaTuning would be expensive because of their tarrifs.


use a spring bender for soft copper.. should be able to find one at home depot or lowes.


----------



## Hikaru12

I know that but I just wondering how to get the angles right using one. Do I just bend against a protractor or something?


----------



## mobeious

$12 bucks each one time use fittings ehh


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hikaru12*
> 
> I know that but I just wondering how to get the angles right using one. Do I just bend against a protractor or something?


yeah I would just use a square or a known object that is 90 degrees.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mobeious*
> 
> $12 bucks each one time use fittings ehh


one time use? which ones?


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> one time use? which ones?


The Koolance fittings you posted are one time use. That is a little misleading as you can reuse the actual fitting but you must replace the ferule to ensure that no leaks will occur. This is why I like push fittings as you will be able to remove the tubing for optimal fitting more than once. Not to mention when you are dealing with hard tubing this can save you serious headaches and cursing matches in the long run.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> The Koolance fittings you posted are one time use. That is a little misleading as you can reuse the actual fitting but you must replace the ferule to ensure that no leaks will occur. This is why I like push fittings as you will be able to remove the tubing for optimal fitting more than once. Not to mention when you are dealing with hard tubing this can save you serious headaches and cursing matches in the long run.


Yeah you need to replace the .80 cent ferrule but that's only if your changing the tubing.


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Yeah you need to replace the .80 cent ferrule but that's only if your changing the tubing.


I don't know about you but I had to do a lot of mocking things up in my case before I was even somewhat OK with how it looked. This required putting the tubing into the fitting more than a few times to get everything laid out and mocked up how I wanted it.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> I don't know about you but I had to do a lot of mocking things up in my case before I was even somewhat OK with how it looked. This required putting the tubing into the fitting more than a few times to get everything laid out and mocked up how I wanted it.


oh for sure but you can tighten down on compression fittings a bit to hold the pipe or tube before to actually compresses the ferrule, so you can loosen and trim or bend without issue. then retighten to check your work and if your happy tighten them down about 1 1/4 turns past hand tight. but this works for me and IMO.


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hikaru12*
> 
> So do I just have to eyeball it when I hand bend the copper? Just want to make sure because it's hard to get a perfect 90 by hand. I probably will end up going with the Phobya fittings especially if they make elbow fittings and the like because I live in the U.S. so I think the AquaTuning would be expensive because of their tarrifs.


If you are using hard copper tubing then the bender you buy will have marks on it for the bends (ex. 45,90 etc). I would not take those as gospel though. as mine wasn't completely accurate, but it gives you a good starting point.

On the topic of Aquatuning: If you order more than 75 dollars worth then shipping is only 6 bucks for 24-72 hr and 8 bucks for 24-48 hr. They don't lie about that either, I have never received a late package from them. Not to mention you might get some awesome Phobya Gummy bears







Both fittings will work just fine though, so unless you need to order like a block from Aquatuning, it might not be worth it for you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> oh for sure but you can tighten down on compression fittings a bit to hold the pipe or tube before to actually compresses the ferrule, so you can loosen and trim or bend without issue. then retighten to check your work and if your happy tighten them down about 1 1/4 turns past hand tight. but this works for me and IMO.


Ah, I see. I'm glad you cleared that up as I had not read that and always assumed. +Rep


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SamNicko*
> 
> WOW your build looks so COOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phanteks Enthoo really-really nice case.
> Thanks for sharing those fittings list


Well it is COOL.....but not in the way you meant









Under stress testing water temps haven't seen > 31.2

Right now browsing and stuff looking at:

Top Rad In = 24.6
Top Rad Out = 24.3

Bot Rad In = 24.4
Bot Rad Out = 24.0

Ambient = 21.6


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> If you are using hard copper tubing then the bender you buy will have marks on it for the bends (ex. 45,90 etc). I would not take those as gospel though. as mine wasn't completely accurate, but it gives you a good starting point.
> 
> On the topic of Aquatuning: If you order more than 75 dollars worth then shipping is only 6 bucks for 24-72 hr and 8 bucks for 24-48 hr. They don't lie about that either, I have never received a late package from them. Not to mention you might get some awesome Phobya Gummy bears
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both fittings will work just fine though, so unless you need to order like a block from Aquatuning, it might not be worth it for you.
> Ah, I see. I'm glad you cleared that up as I had not read that and always assumed. +Rep


thanks for the rep bud. I use a similar fitting and tubing at work for gasoline additive so I thought these fittings would be close to the same idea. I only bought and tested 2 of them with 3/8" stainless steel tubing just to see if they would work and at only 3/4 turn past hand tight they sealed... so I bought 20.



here playing around with 3/8 stainless




and my Ridgid bender



By the way to use 3/8 tubing you must switch the ferrules out with 1/2" ferrules


----------



## Hikaru12

Sucks that I'm going with HeatKiller blocks because then I'd be able to get that cheaper price. Ah well. Phobya will have to do. I would go with compression but I'm a little nervous with how tight the ferrule can actually hold the tube. It's not exactly stainless but still...


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hikaru12*
> 
> Sucks that I'm going with HeatKiller blocks because then I'd be able to get that cheaper price. Ah well. Phobya will have to do. I would go with compression but I'm a little nervous with how tight the ferrule can actually hold the tube. It's not exactly stainless but still...


I'm actually going to use hard copper pipe but these fitting hold very tight. I think even soft copper would not be able to be pulled out no matter how hard a person could pull. At half tightened with stainless I couldn't even budge the pipe.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I wouldn't wanna use SS in a loop w/ copper


----------



## Hikaru12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I'm actually going to use hard copper pipe but these fitting hold very tight. I think even soft copper would not be able to be pulled out no matter how hard a person could pull. At half tightened with stainless I couldn't even budge the pipe.


Hmmm...I might buy a couple of Koolance fittings judt to give them a try. The only thing is the fittings will determine if I use metric or imperial since Koolance only makes imperial compressions.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I wouldn't wanna use SS in a loop w/ copper


Nonsense. Every impingement block on the market has SS jet plates,Watercool and Aquacomputer all use SS covers for their GPU blocks.
Ss is perfectly fine for use with copper..my own loop has SS and copper tube together with no iIl effects.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hikaru12*
> 
> Hmmm...I might buy a couple of Koolance fittings judt to give them a try. The only thing is the fittings will determine if I use metric or imperial since Koolance only makes imperial compressions.


well the Koolance fittings come with metric ferrules, I just replaced them with 1/2" ferrules.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nonsense. Every impingement block on the market has SS jet plates,Watercool and Aquacomputer all use SS covers for their GPU blocks.
> Ss is perfectly fine for use with copper..my own loop has SS and copper tube together with no iIl effects.


Exactly, also look on the inside of a D5/655 pump, it has a stainless house on the motor side that the impeller rides in.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nonsense. Every impingement block on the market has SS jet plates,Watercool and Aquacomputer all use SS covers for their GPU blocks.
> Ss is perfectly fine for use with copper..my own loop has SS and copper tube together with no iIl effects.


And how are you measuring these effects ? .... have you examined the inside of the tube, have you measured the electrical conductivity of the water ?

I was strictly referring to Type 304 stainless steel from which SS tubing is fabricated. I was not referring to type 316 stainless steel typically used in machinery and extreme environments. Anodized aluminum shows better corrosion resistance than Type 304 SS. I oft inspect submersible pumping stations which consist of a underground concrete chambers with an anodized aluminum access hatch and Type 304 SS electrical panels.... the aluminum hatches are free of any sign of corrosion and the panels have surface rust.

There are many types of stainless steel ... Assuming all SS's are created equal is an unfortunately common error in plant design.

Type 316 is specifically formulated for it's corrosion / galvanic resistance as well as hardness / abrasion resistance to make it suitable for use in rotating machinery as well as extreme environments such as chemical and marine industries. It is very, no extremely, expensive.

Type 304 on the other hand has much weaker corrosion and galvanic resistance and is used where large quantities would make 316's usage cost prohibitive. Boat railings is a common usage for example.....and that's why if not plated or maintained, they immediately show signs of corrosion. It's also softer which makes it easier to bend. SS tubing and piping found in your typical hardware store is Type 304 at best.

Stainless Steel type 316 electrical panels used in NEMA 4X environments remain free of rust after 30 years of use except sometimes for a small spot or 2 at weld points where it will discolor but not corrode. Type 304 stainless steel panels will show signs of rust in a matter of weeks in outdoor environments. This surface rust appears in a as small dots and is easily wiped away with a plastic scrubber and some WD-40.

Here's some suppliers:

Type 304 only http://www.cut2sizemetals.com/stainless-steel/round-tube/stb/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Stainless_Steel_Round_Tube
Type 304 only http://www.globaltecheng.com/ProductCart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=28

Giving examples of how type 316 SS is used doesn't change how Type 304 behaves; just because 316 is OK and doesn't cause problems, that doesn't mean all other types of SS are OK. I have too much experience with Type 304 to consider using it in a loop. And while the cost of a few feet of tubing is by no means prohibitive, it is difficult to obtain in small quantities.

While the corrosion rate of 304 is slow it does occur and the tube will certainly outlive the computer...... but your fluid will quickly contain significant levels of ions....as for the surface rust, I have never seen clumps or flakes of rust appear in a line but we do see rust staining on filter media when Type 304 is used in feed lines. And of course the scrubbers and towels we use to remove the surface rust from panels are stained rust orange.

A fitting here or there probably won't have a significant influence due to its small surface area.... but I used up over 40" of tube in my build and that amount of surface area should not be ignored.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> So aluminum is an absolute disaster but iron / steel's which have a worse galvanic potential are absolutely fine ? So much for chemistry.


Stainless is worse then Aluminum? not by my tables... I think you need to reread the table you posted. This isn't bare steel, this is Chromium type corrosion resistant steel.


----------



## Hikaru12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> well the Koolance fittings come with metric ferrules, I just replaced them with 1/2" ferrules.


Is it the ferrules that determine the size of the tube that can be accepted? In that case I should be able to use 10mm/12mm tube with them right?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hikaru12*
> 
> Is it the ferrules that determine the size of the tube that can be accepted? In that case I should be able to use 10mm/12mm tube with them right?


Yes sir, It comes with ferrules for 10mm.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Nonsense. Every impingement block on the market has SS jet plates,Watercool and Aquacomputer all use SS covers for their GPU blocks.
> Ss is perfectly fine for use with copper..my own loop has SS and copper tube together with no iIl effects.
> 
> 
> 
> And how are you measuring these effects ? .... have you examined the inside of the tube, have you measured the electrical conductivity of the water ?
> 
> I was strictly referring to Type 304 stainless steel from which SS tubing is fabricated. I was not referring to type 316 stainless steel typically used in machinery and extreme environments. Anodized aluminum shows better corrosion resistance than Type 304 SS. I oft inspect submersible pumping stations which consist of a underground concrete chambers with an anodized aluminum access hatch and Type 304 SS electrical panels.... the aluminum hatches are free of any sign of corrosion and the panels have surface rust.
> 
> There are many types of stainless steel ... Assuming all SS's are created equal is an unfortunately common error in plant design.
> 
> Type 316 is specifically formulated for it's corrosion / galvanic resistance as well as hardness / abrasion resistance to make it suitable for use in rotating machinery as well as extreme environments such as chemical and marine industries. It is very, no extremely, expensive.
> 
> Type 304 on the other hand has much weaker corrosion and galvanic resistance and is used where large quantities would make 316's usage cost prohibitive. Boat railings is a common usage for example.....and that's why if not plated or maintained, they immediately show signs of corrosion. It's also softer which makes it easier to bend. SS tubing and piping found in your typical hardware store is Type 304 at best.
> 
> Stainless Steel type 316 electrical panels used in NEMA 4X environments remain free of rust after 30 years of use except sometimes for a small spot or 2 at weld points where it will discolor but not corrode. Type 304 stainless steel panels will show signs of rust in a matter of weeks in outdoor environments. This surface rust appears in a as small dots and is easily wiped away with a plastic scrubber and some WD-40.
> 
> Here's some suppliers:
> 
> Type 304 only http://www.cut2sizemetals.com/stainless-steel/round-tube/stb/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Stainless_Steel_Round_Tube
> Type 304 only http://www.globaltecheng.com/ProductCart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=28
> 
> Giving examples of how type 316 SS is used doesn't change how Type 304 behaves; just because 316 is OK and doesn't cause problems, that doesn't mean all other types of SS are OK. I have too much experience with Type 304 to consider using it in a loop. And while the cost of a few feet of tubing is by no means prohibitive, it is difficult to obtain in small quantities.
> 
> While the corrosion rate of 304 is slow it does occur and the tube will certainly outlive the computer...... but your fluid will quickly contain significant levels of ions....as for the surface rust, I have never seen clumps or flakes of rust appear in a line but we do see rust staining on filter media when Type 304 is used in feed lines. And of course the scrubbers and towels we use to remove the surface rust from panels are stained rust orange.
> 
> A fitting here or there probably won't have a significant influence due to its small surface area.... but I used up over 40" of tube in my build and that amount of surface area should not be ignored.
Click to expand...

You didnt spec what SS,you made a blanket statement and you were wrong.
You are also making assumptions of the grade of SS used in waterblocks. Giving lectures in SS grading doesnt alter any of that,as for listing suppliers...why would i ever need that information? Copper is by far the better tube for this application,good enough for potable water systems then its good enough for me.

I have inspected the top covers of my GPU blocks and CPU jet plates,no corrosion found. As for 'significant ions',that occurs the moment the bottle is opened.

Now,using a low carbon steel is great but you are massively overemphasizing the problems with 304. The tallest manmade monument in the US, the St Louis Arch, is entirely clad in 304 stainless steel plates. Except for cleaning, the stainless exterior of this monument has required no corrosion maintenance.
304 is closer to Copper in the corrosion table,the condition your 304 is in is far different to our use,we do not use high chloride content fluids in a stagnant environment.
During the machining process, a microscopic amount of free iron may be worn off the cutting tool and transferred to the surface of the stainless steel workpiece. Under certain conditions, a thin coating of rust may appear on the part. This is actually corrosion of the steel from the tool and not the parent metal. Sometimes the crevice at the embedded particle of steel from the cutting tool or its corrosion products may cause an attack of the part itself. A simple Citric or Nitric acid bath will passivate the steel before use anyway....nullifying any major problems associated with spot rust as the surface will be cleaned and have a protective carbide film

I have been a plumber for a number of years and work with a lot of SS,304 is used for chemical processing equipment, for food, dairy, and beverage industries and for heat exchangers,plenty of resistance for what we use it for.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Stainless is worse then Aluminum? not by my tables... I think you need to reread the table you posted. This isn't bare steel, this is Chromium type corrosion resistant steel.


I think you need to reread the post.....

1. Base aluminum was not discussed.

2. Anodized aluminum is not in the tables nor was it discussed in reference to the table.

3. I said that *anodized* aluminum, (based upon 35 years experience in plant design, operation and maintenance), holds up better in corrosive environments than *Type 304* stainless steel..... *Type 316* holds up just fine ...... emphasis on the words in bold
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You didnt spec what SS,you made a blanket statement and you were wrong.
> .


I made a blanket statement with regard to readily available SS tubing ..... I made no reference to blocks or machinery parts.
Quote:


> 304 is closer to Copper in the corrosion table,the condition your 304 is in is far different to our use,we do not use high chloride content fluids in a stagnant environment.


I don't consider "outdoors" a stagnant environment ..... Also don't consider filtered cooling water nor rain a "high chloride content" fluid.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Stainless is worse then Aluminum? not by my tables... I think you need to reread the table you posted. This isn't bare steel, this is Chromium type corrosion resistant steel.
> 
> 
> 
> I think you need to reread the post.....
> 
> 1. Base aluminum was not discussed.
> 
> 2. Anodized aluminum is not in the tables nor was it discussed in reference to the table.
> 
> 3. I said that *anodized* aluminum, (based upon 35 years experience in plant design, operation and maintenance), holds up better in corrosive environments than *Type 304* stainless steel..... *Type 316* holds up just fine ...... emphasis on the words in bold
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You didnt spec what SS,you made a blanket statement and you were wrong.
> .
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I made a blanket statement with regard to readily available SS tubing ..... I made no reference to blocks or machinery parts.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 304 is closer to Copper in the corrosion table,the condition your 304 is in is far different to our use,we do not use high chloride content fluids in a stagnant environment.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't consider "outdoors" a stagnant environment ..... Also don't consider filtered cooling water nor rain a "high chloride content" fluid.
Click to expand...

Then maybe you should check,concrete,like you mention these items are in concrete environment = Chlorides, particularly calcium chloride, have been used to shorten the setting time of concrete. Check around for blowing from the rebar,this could explain why you have rust spotting. Surely you must know this being in your field? Dont assume because its less than perfect for YOUR application that its worthless for everything as my previous examples illustrate.
Now the anodized Alu...Very good resistance indeed,as long as the anodizing is not compromised in any way. If it has even so much as a scratch then its nigh on worthless.

And why are you posting your acrylic tubed build in the copper thread? There is a separate thread for acrylic as you know...because you have already posted it there.


----------



## Hikaru12

I had this idea about using brass for pipe. If I got metric brass tubing and annealed it with a torch could I bend it using a normal bender? How easy is brass to work with as compared to copper? Could I use the same fittings as the copper? I know brass is an alloy of copper so I'm guessing it shouldn't be that much harder and it has great corrosion resistance which appeals to me.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I think you need to reread the post.....
> 
> 1. Base aluminum was not discussed.
> 
> 2. Anodized aluminum is not in the tables nor was it discussed in reference to the table.
> 
> 3. I said that *anodized* aluminum, (based upon 35 years experience in plant design, operation and maintenance), holds up better in corrosive environments than *Type 304* stainless steel..... *Type 316* holds up just fine ...... emphasis on the words in bold
> I made a blanket statement with regard to readily available SS tubing ..... I made no reference to blocks or machinery parts.
> I don't consider "outdoors" a stagnant environment ..... Also don't consider filtered cooling water nor rain a "high chloride content" fluid.


The post I quoted you said NOTHING about anodized aluminum and I don't care how many years experience you have in your field.


----------



## NYMD

Thanks for the tutorial. I know my first upgrade will be re-doing my loop's tubing into bent metal.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Then maybe you should check,concrete,like you mention these items are in concrete environment = Chlorides, particularly calcium chloride, have been used to shorten the setting time of concrete. Check around for blowing from the rebar,this could explain why you have rust spotting. Surely you must know this being in your field? Dont assume because its less than perfect for YOUR application that its worthless for everything as my previous examples illustrate.
> Now the anodized Alu...Very good resistance indeed,as long as the anodizing is not compromised in any way. If it has even so much as a scratch then its nigh on worthless.


That would be a very relevant point except for cupla things .....

1. Most of the installations are precast. When ya use precast concrete, anything relevant to cast-in-place concrete and the products in its formulation are not present. Manhole and top arrives off a truck .... contractor will spend 2-4 months getting shop drawings approved, equipment ordered and installed.... then electrical contractor comes in maybe a month later and sets two wooden posts and a SS panel. Panel is out in the weather, exposed to nothing more than rain / humidity.

2. Calcium chloride is not permitted in any of our specs when we do use cast in place concrete ..... as the tankage holds water, we are looking to minimize cracking and therefore want as long a drying time as possible.....we even wet down the concrete or cover with hay and wet it to keep curing as slow as possible.

Typically in the larger installations, electrical contractor begins work 8 - 12 months later. Though the calcium chloride was never present, anything that was, would be long washed away .... the rebar thing I didn't get .....last time rebars were exposed was a year before the panel gets there.

3. This is ongoing ..... maintenance is performed every few months; panels are sprayed with WD-40 and rubbed with a plastic scrubber to remove surface rust every few months.

As for the assumption ..... rain is water ..... not chlorinated water, there is no chlorides present .... 304 shows spot rusting and continues to show spot rusting year after after after year.....even indoors in high humidity environments. It happens because people "assumed" that SS was SS. It was that assumption which I was addressing in the first place. I have as hard a time finding 316 tube as I do finding metric acrylic here in the US ... yea I can get it from WC sites but they are importing it from Europe via EK or E22. 1/2 inch SS tube isn't available if ya do a hard search but at about $17 a foot but the wall thickness is kinda light at 0.018" ....3/8" I haven't found but kinda gave up after a dozen sources or so as when i was looking we needed 1/2.

Now the one thing that makes it hard to judge in a WC loop is access to oxygen..... just how much oxygen will be in the loop for any type of corrosion (Oxidation) to take place ? .... then again the same is true for any metal. And if using a coolant, Then that too will minimize any effects.

As for the anodizing of aluminum, I don't have much fear of putting a deep scratch in any internal WC components..... be hard to do w/o a deliberate act. While I have seen drastic effects "in the lab" ....In the field, it's been harder to observe. I have sometimes been alarmed when such was observed on a site inspection and when I come back in 3 months, it's hard to jump up and down about req'd maintenance not being performed when there's no visible ill effects....."Yet !" is my usual response.

I have been weighing "shiny metal" for quite some time..... copper is a bear to keep looking pretty..... though I love the look when freshly polished. 304 is a bit dull so another reason I wouldn't use....316 is better. From what I have seen so far, home nickel plating copper is something I'm itching to experiment with.

EDIT: Looks like things have changed price wise since I last looked .... the discussion got me curious .... went and looked gain

6 feet for $35 is not bad at all and at a good wall thickness. I'd have no qualms about using this.
http://www.grainger.com/product/Tubing-3ACH7?s_pp=false


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> The post I quoted you said NOTHING about anodized aluminum and I don't care how many years experience you have in your field.


I'd be happy if you just cared about reading all the words in the sentence.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> And how are you measuring these effects ? .... have you examined the inside of the tube, have you measured the electrical conductivity of the water ?
> 
> I was strictly referring to Type 304 stainless steel from which SS tubing is fabricated. I was not referring to type 316 stainless steel typically used in machinery and extreme environments. *Anodized aluminum* shows better corrosion resistance than Type 304 SS. I oft inspect submersible pumping stations which consist of a underground concrete chambers with an anodized aluminum access hatch and Type 304 SS electrical panels.... the aluminum hatches are free of any sign of corrosion and the panels have surface rust.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'd be happy if you just cared about reading all the words in the sentence.


I did NOT quote your post 1384! You either edited your post to make me look like I'm not reading your post or deleted it... so screw.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I did NOT quote your post 1384! You either edited your post to make me look like I'm not reading your post or deleted it... so screw.


Sorry, won't work.....Look at the bottom of the post..... it very clearly shows the time it was edited .... 2 days ago.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Sorry, won't work.....Look at the bottom of the post..... it very clearly shows the time it was edited .... 2 days ago.


haha but look back what I quoted you saying...that's what I responded too.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I was talking to Rubidium some time ago about oxygen scavengers and he did give me a list..never acted on it as oxygen is not a thing I have to worry about for copper loops.
I will dig it out,he knows his stuff,Rubi is a full blown nuclear physicist.

Are your panels passivated in anyway?
Something to consider for a high humidity/stagnant airflow environment
I'm not up on US concrete spec,we use chlorides in the UK all the time. I should of checked that first.

Home plating is a good idea if you can put the prep work in before plating...I would farm that out myself.
Anodising doesn't need deliberate damage,even simple things like screwing a fitting into an anodised thread will be enough.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I was talking to Rubidium some time ago about oxygen scavengers and he did give me a list..never acted on it as oxygen is not a thing I have to worry about for copper loops.
> I will dig it out,he knows his stuff,Rubi is a full blown nuclear physicist.
> 
> Are your panels passivated in anyway?
> Something to consider for a high humidity/stagnant airflow environment
> I'm not up on US concrete spec,we use chlorides in the UK all the time. I should of checked that first.
> 
> Home plating is a good idea if you can put the prep work in before plating...I would farm that out myself.
> Anodising doesn't need deliberate damage,even simple things like screwing a fitting into an anodised thread will be enough.


The thing holding me up is that some of the methods I have seen seem to work really well...... but it's a visual determination as to "when it's done" .... and how are you sure the inside of the tube is done when ya can't see it .....


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

This is just the thread I'm looking for. Got a lot of questions, gonna gather my thoughts and BRB!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> This is just the thread I'm looking for. Got a lot of questions, gonna gather my thoughts and BRB!


Ok,read thru the thread first and see if your questions have already been discussed?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ok,read thru the thread first and see if your questions have already been discussed?


Yep, most of them were. Do You know if 1/2 inch acryclic tube fittings will work ok with a 1/2 copper pipe? Just wanna double check in that before ordering a dozen fittings. Thanks !


----------



## Jetskyer

If you mean the 1/2" ghost fittings from promo chill (so, these, then yes it will work indeed.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> If you mean the 1/2" ghost fittings from promo chill (so, these, then yes it will work indeed.


Those must be new, i've never even heard of them. I was thinking the standard primochil acrylic fiitings, but, I'll chek these out.


----------



## Jetskyer

I don't know which other fittings you mean but since 1/2 inch is a half inch they definitely will work for copper lines if they do for the same size acrylic.


----------



## Hikaru12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hikaru12*
> 
> I had this idea about using brass for pipe. If I got metric brass tubing and annealed it with a torch could I bend it using a normal bender? How easy is brass to work with as compared to copper? Could I use the same fittings as the copper? I know brass is an alloy of copper so I'm guessing it shouldn't be that much harder and it has great corrosion resistance which appeals to me.


Anyone have any idea on using brass piping instead?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hikaru12*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hikaru12*
> 
> I had this idea about using brass for pipe. If I got metric brass tubing and annealed it with a torch could I bend it using a normal bender? How easy is brass to work with as compared to copper? Could I use the same fittings as the copper? I know brass is an alloy of copper so I'm guessing it shouldn't be that much harder and it has great corrosion resistance which appeals to me.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have any idea on using brass piping instead?
Click to expand...

Much harder to bend than copper but do-able...as long as the tube doesnt crack.


----------



## Hikaru12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Much harder to bend than copper but do-able...as long as the tube doesnt crack.


Well I'm planning on annealing it first and then using ice or springs. Will the fittings talked about in this topic work for brass since it's harder? For example, could the Aquatuning push in fittings work on brass and still provide a leak proof seal?


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Couldn't find a pipe bender for 1/2 copper tube. Can someone recommend one from an online retailer? thanks


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Couldn't find a pipe bender for 1/2 copper tube. Can someone recommend one from an online retailer? thanks


I have this one. I would recommend it to anyone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UL1UTG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I have this one. I would recommend it to anyone.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UL1UTG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Thanks! +rep


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Hey, guys. I'm looking for some help. I'm having some problems. All my 6 pipes are in place. I filled my reservoir and let the water passively fill the loop as much as possible. Through out doing this, I found leaks in the fittings but I was able to fix them with filing upto the 4th pipe I came across. The following problems happened:

1. So after taking this pipe out (goes from my gpu to cpu) I filed it and fixed the leak. But when putting it back in, I notice this:



It's about a good 1 cm short. I can put it back in, but I would really have to put strain on the 290, which I'm very uncomfortable in doing. This also means when it was fitted in, It was putting strain on the card to begin with, but I'm glad the leak happened as I would not have noticed this. How can I fix this without buying a new pipe? (im all out, unfortunately)

2. My second problem is with pipe 3. It's fit in and it's comfortable and all, but it's forcing the gpu a little bit. Not too much strain, but noticeable amount. It looks like this:



You can see it's a bit down and to the right. The holes don't match up well enough to pass a screw through it. I'm planning on leaving this as is, and adjusting pipe 4 (the one I was talking about earlier) so that it will keep the card in this position and not move it too much. Would this be a problem? Should I just wait, buy a new copper pipe, and redo both of them?

3. Also, throughout the testing phase, a lot of water fell on my parts. Some even on the edge of the my GPU's pcb. I'm using the psu of another computer to accomplish all of this. If I were to let everything to dry and not touch my PC for a few days, everything should be okay,right? Also, I'm using distilled water.

Thank you for bearing with me.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

1. Something like this is very useful for drying ......



2. When redoing, always "cut long"..... very easy to shorten a tube, much harder to lengthen.

3. Use a test fitting with few inches of straight tube. For example, sticking that in GPU, you could then get an accurate measurement of distance from CPU block to bend point ..... "rinse and repeat" for distance downward by screwing into CPU block and measuring vertical distance..... then draw on paper and use as a template.

4. GFX cards droop from left to right.....I'd suggest propping the right end so you can take accurate measurements.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

If anyone's looking to buy a 10mm tube bender in the states, I just bought one from this lady on ebay. She has one more on sale.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

I currently have this build log going. Its got images from start to finish and I add in some information that I found useful during my build.


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Hey, guys. I'm looking for some help.


Pillar: I'm answering this a week late, so I hope I can still help if you haven't already worked-out your issues.

Regarding 1: When mounting the tubes, I always attached the fittings to the tubes first and then screwed the fittings into the water blocks. Don't screw one side all the way in first. Instead, start each side and then tighten each side in one after another a little at a time until they are snugly fit in.

Regarding 2: I would make a new tube with the length adjusted to remove the strain on the video card. I have a box full of mistakes and unsatisfactory copper tubes that will end up at the recycler. Get the tubes as perfect as you can. It takes practice and some patience but the finished product will be worth it. I bought a lot of extra tubing when I built my rig because I know I would make a lot of bad tubes at first. I'm much better at it now.

Regarding 3: I cover my parts with towels (paper or cloth) when leak testing. As long as no power was applied to the parts then the distilled water should be OK after drying. I'd use a can of air duster and spray through all the little nooks and crannies on the components that had water fall on them to make sure no moisture got trapped anywhere.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> Pillar: I'm answering this a week late, so I hope I can still help if you haven't already worked-out your issues.
> 
> Regarding 1: When mounting the tubes, I always attached the fittings to the tubes first and then screwed the fittings into the water blocks. Don't screw one side all the way in first. Instead, start each side and then tighten each side in one after another a little at a time until they are snugly fit in.
> 
> Regarding 2: I would make a new tube with the length adjusted to remove the strain on the video card. I have a box full of mistakes and unsatisfactory copper tubes that will end up at the recycler. Get the tubes as perfect as you can. It takes practice and some patience but the finished product will be worth it. I bought a lot of extra tubing when I built my rig because I know I would make a lot of bad tubes at first. I'm much better at it now.
> 
> Regarding 3: I cover my parts with towels (paper or cloth) when leak testing. As long as no power was applied to the parts then the distilled water should be OK after drying. I'd use a can of air duster and spray through all the little nooks and crannies on the components that had water fall on them to make sure no moisture got trapped anywhere.


Thank you Escovado! I was actually able to get past all those mistakes by buying a new copper tube. Here's my WIP: http://www.overclock.net/t/1455917/build-log-dark-knight-v-2-0


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Hey, guys. I'm looking for some help.
> 
> 
> 
> Pillar: I'm answering this a week late, so I hope I can still help if you haven't already worked-out your issues.
> 
> Regarding 1: When mounting the tubes, I always attached the fittings to the tubes first and then screwed the fittings into the water blocks. Don't screw one side all the way in first. Instead, start each side and then tighten each side in one after another a little at a time until they are snugly fit in.
> 
> Regarding 2: I would make a new tube with the length adjusted to remove the strain on the video card. I have a box full of mistakes and unsatisfactory copper tubes that will end up at the recycler. Get the tubes as perfect as you can. It takes practice and some patience but the finished product will be worth it. I bought a lot of extra tubing when I built my rig because I know I would make a lot of bad tubes at first. I'm much better at it now.
> 
> Regarding 3: I cover my parts with towels (paper or cloth) when leak testing. As long as no power was applied to the parts then the distilled water should be OK after drying. I'd use a can of air duster and spray through all the little nooks and crannies on the components that had water fall on them to make sure no moisture got trapped anywhere.
Click to expand...

All solid advice.


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Thank you Escovado! I was actually able to get past all those mistakes by buying a new copper tube. Here's my WIP: http://www.overclock.net/t/1455917/build-log-dark-knight-v-2-0


Your build is looking good!


----------



## kpforce1

One of these days I'll get around to leak testing my rig lol... or maybe even finishing it haha... I added a 670 to the bottom that will drive the touchscreen up front.








For those using copper... if at first you don't succeed, try try again







. Like most, I have a pile of copper tubing that just wasn't right


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ok,read thru the thread first and see if your questions have already been discussed?


Dude, you gptta be kidding. There's 72 pages in this thread.


----------



## Elmy

video with my chrome plated 12mm copper pipe.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

That is gorgeous! Very good work, man!

Also, I was wondering if someone can help me with some color matching on my thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1455917/build-log-dark-knight-v-2-0

Basically, this is what my rig looks like: 

I have a PSU cover over it that I'm not complete with, but it will look like this:




Now, my question is, what color should I make the pipes? I'm choosing between gray (that resembles pretty closely to the gray on my PSU wire sleeve) or a matte black sort of color. This is a sample of what the gray looks like: The sample tube is sitting right above the PSU





So a question for you all: What color should I make the tubing? Matte black or the type of dark grey that is shown?


----------



## PepeLapiu

I would prefer the pipes to stand out from the rest, not blend in....my choice.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I would prefer the pipes to stand out from the rest, not blend in....my choice.


Thanks. I'm thinking that the gray might make it stand out too much? My build basically has a black theme going on with a little bit of dark gray and white here and there.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ok,read thru the thread first and see if your questions have already been discussed?
> 
> 
> 
> Dude, you gptta be kidding. There's 72 pages in this thread.
Click to expand...

Best get started then.


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Dude, you gptta be kidding. There's 72 pages in this thread.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Best get started then.


72? Looks more like 143 pages to me.


----------



## gdubc

I see 48 pages...it depends on your settings of how many posts you see per page. Either way it is required reading!


----------



## PepeLapiu

Okay guys, I am about to order my fittings.
Here are the ones I am getting:
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/index.php/cat/c456_10mm.html
I pick those because i wish to not mix any metals in my loop, copper only, and some brass. And these fittings are all plastic. They are also very affordable and easy to paint. I also like push-fits, quick to assemble and tear down, and good solid connection.

But I have not seen anyone else who uses those. Any reason why everyone else seems to shy away from them?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Okay guys, I am about to order my fittings.
> Here are the ones I am getting:
> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/index.php/cat/c456_10mm.html
> I pick those because i wish to not mix any metals in my loop, copper only, and some brass. And these fittings are all plastic. They are also very affordable and easy to paint. I also like push-fits, quick to assemble and tear down, and good solid connection.
> 
> But I have not seen anyone else who uses those. Any reason why everyone else seems to shy away from them?


They look cheap and the threads are all plastic on the more used straight plug. I recommend the metal ones as I use them myself,I dont like recommending stuff I personally have not used.


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I see 48 pages...it depends on your settings of how many posts you see per page. Either way it is required reading!


If you set it to 100 posts per page, then there are only 15 pages to read.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Dude, you gptta be kidding. There's 72 pages in this thread.


So ya want someone else top re-read it and find the answers ya looking for .... my kids do that to em all thew time ..... well it was a good try , no harm in asking right


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Still working on some minor polish to bring this bad boy up to 100%. But 95% of the work is done, and this is how it looks right now:


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Still working on some minor polish to bring this bad boy up to 100%. But 95% of the work is done, and this is how it looks right now


That looks great!


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> That looks great!


I disagree.
I think he should ship the whole rig to me and start over again.
This service will be offered at no charge to him either, cuz that's just the kind of nice guy I am.


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I disagree.
> I think he should ship the whole rig to me and start over again.
> This service will be offered at no charge to him either, cuz that's just the kind of nice guy I am.


What a pal!


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> That looks great!


Thank you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I disagree.
> I think he should ship the whole rig to me and start over again.
> This service will be offered at no charge to him either, cuz that's just the kind of nice guy I am.


HAH!! We have so many people like that in Congress here lol.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> HAH!! We have so many people like that in Congress here lol.


Davy Crocket said it best: "_Politians, blood suckers all_"
It's a know fact that politians suffer from a lack of oxygen. And so they should be ventillated from time to time. Preferably with a high power rifle and scope.

But I am straying from the thread, so I'll shut up now.


----------



## wonderwall

My first pipe copper


----------



## PepeLapiu

Looking good!!








What size pipes are those?
I got all geared up for 10mm pipes and they do look spagetti thin compared to yours.


----------



## wonderwall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Looking good!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What size pipes are those?
> I got all geared up for 10mm pipes and they do look spagetti thin compared to yours.










Yes it's size 10mm ,
I think this size fit to mini itx case







.


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wonderwall*
> 
> My first pipe copper


Great work!







Satisfying once it's all done, isn't it?







And you don't have to change the copper tubes out every few months like you had to with the plastic stuff.









I do have one tiny bit of nitpicking: The tubes are dimpled where the bends start. It is *not* worth replacing the tubes over this, but it looks like you were a little rough with the bending tool.


----------



## Krusher33

I'm thinking about ditching acrylic and going copper again. Problem is that I've already collected 8 C47 fittings. Did anyone ever find 12mm copper pipes in the states? I would love ones that were chrome plated like OP used but I don't have my hopes up.


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I'm thinking about ditching acrylic and going copper again. Problem is that I've already collected 8 C47 fittings. Did anyone ever find 12mm copper pipes in the states? I would love ones that were chrome plated like OP used but I don't have my hopes up.


Here you go:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#9935k16/=qj8mf2

http://www.mcmaster.com/#9935k26/=qj8mse


----------



## Krusher33

Thanks, now I remember why I switched to acrylic. The price difference.


----------



## Escovado

Yeah. Copper ain't cheap anymore.


----------



## PepeLapiu

McMaster is expensive, very expensive.
If I were to do it again, I think I would try and use 1/2 inch pipes (12.5mm) and sand them down to 12mm. But that would be hard to do on plated ones. 1/2 inch copper pipes would be a lot cheaper, and easily sources from Home dePot.

My 10mm pipes turned out cheaper than most soft tubing, per linear foot. And the fittings I get are also much cheaper than even barb soft tube fittings. But it's the tooling that cranked up the price for me.

Those C47 fittings, why not take one to your hardware store and see if you can snug up a 1/2 inch pipe in them?


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

You can also try OrphanEspresso


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> McMaster is expensive, very expensive.


McMaster Carr isn't cheap, that's for sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> You can also try OrphanEspresso


However, McMaster is cheaper than Orphan Espresso for 12mm copper tubes. Orphan @ $6.50 / foot vs McMaster (after a little arithmetic) @ $4.28 / foot.


----------



## Krusher33

I'm only needing like 4 ft of it.

1 section of about 20 in.

1 section of about 10 in.

1 section 2-3 in.

And then some extra in case of error.


----------



## BioHzrd

Question for anyone with an answer, Just came across the Monsoon hardline pro kit and the formers are 13mm (smallest they go) im wanting to use 12mm OD tubing to use my existing Bitspower fittings with the formers being 1mm larger than the indented tube will i encounter issues in the forming of the tubing ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BioHzrd*
> 
> Question for anyone with an answer, Just came across the Monsoon hardline pro kit and the formers are 13mm (smallest they go) im wanting to use 12mm OD tubing to use my existing Bitspower fittings with the formers being 1mm larger than the indented tube will i encounter issues in the forming of the tubing ?


Those are for acrylic tube,not copper. Use the benders shown in the first post.


----------



## BioHzrd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those are for acrylic tube,not copper. Use the benders shown in the first post.


Sorry i should have stated i intend to use Acrylic tubing with an OD of 12mm on the Monsoon 13mm OD formers


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BioHzrd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Those are for acrylic tube,not copper. Use the benders shown in the first post.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry i should have stated i intend to use Acrylic tubing with an OD of 12mm on the Monsoon 13mm OD formers
Click to expand...

Check my acrylic thread in my sig.


----------



## BioHzrd

Ha asked the question in the totaly incorrect thread then.....oops i shall have a read of the Acrylic thread and hopefully find an answer cheers


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BioHzrd*
> 
> Ha asked the question in the totaly incorrect thread then.....oops i shall have a read of the Acrylic thread and hopefully find an answer cheers


No big deal, it's not the totally incorrect thread. This thread started out as the source for all hard tubing info, including acrylic. As acryluc got popular, I guess BNeg decided to start a different thread for it.

But that mistake will forever stay on your record and you shall never be forgiven, ever! (Evil laugh)


----------



## BioHzrd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> No big deal, it's not the totally incorrect thread. This thread started out as the source for all hard tubing info, including acrylic. As acryluc got popular, I guess BNeg decided to start a different thread for it.
> 
> But that mistake will forever stay on your record and you shall never be forgiven, ever! (Evil laugh)


Wouldn't be the first one on recored


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> McMaster is expensive, very expensive.
> If I were to do it again, I think I would try and use 1/2 inch pipes (12.5mm) and sand them down to 12mm. But that would be hard to do on plated ones. 1/2 inch copper pipes would be a lot cheaper, and easily sources from Home dePot.
> 
> My 10mm pipes turned out cheaper than most soft tubing, per linear foot. And the fittings I get are also much cheaper than even barb soft tube fittings. But it's the tooling that cranked up the price for me.
> 
> Those C47 fittings, why not take one to your hardware store and see if you can snug up a 1/2 inch pipe in them?


I believe Darlene used a drill-press to widen the C47's just enough to fit 1/2" pipes. Her results were good I believe, definitely resulted in a more snug solution since the O-rings will be compressed more.


----------



## Simplynicko

only 1460 posts to read. #myjourneybegins


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wonderwall*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/01/edasyra5.jpg[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


looks good, but it's a bummer you have a dent in each pipe. Was that an issue with the bender, the pipe, or with the technique?


----------



## PepeLapiu

*Aquatuning Black Plastic Push-Fit Fittings
First Impression*

Okay, so I have not seen anyone else who has used the Aquatuning plastic push-fits and I though I would give my first impression on them.

I don't have a loop running yet, so I could not leak test them. I'm sure it's all fine in that regard.

I was attracted to those fittings because they are dirt cheap when compared to others and they are all plastic. While that might be a turn-off for most, I prefer plastic over adding more mixed metals to my loop (nickel, chrome, and others). I also like that the whole loop can be torn down and put back together really fast. Push-fits are easy to plug in and out.

If I can keep the entire loop strictly copper and brass, that's my goal.

So I ordered them from Aquatuning 6 days ago, and it only took this long to get from Germany to Western Canada......pretty impressive. I also ordered a few brass/nickel fittings for conparison.

Sorry about poor picture quality. When God created me, he gave me a choice between good photigraphy skills, and ruggedly good looks.









Starting from the fitting with the pipe connected and going clockwise.

- 10mm G1/4 plug fitting black plastics
- 10mm G1/4 plug fitting - black nickel
- 10mm G1/4 Y plug fitting black brass/nickel thread
- 10mm G1/4 plug fitting 90° revolvable black plastics

Firstly, I was scared that the plastic threads would be too soft and too easily stripped. But I found I actually prefer the plastic threads. They produce a more snug fit which will likely not leak even if I were to remove the O-ring. However one will have to be more careful not to strip the thread. This can be seen as a positive. I would rather strip the threads on my 2$ fitting than strip the thread on my 100$ rad ports. Tho a minimum of care will not conclude in any threads being stripped on anything. And I think the coarse threading of G1/4 fittings can easily accomodate those plastic fittings.

The fit with 10mm copper pipes is very snug and produces a satisfying click when fully inserted.
The Nickel/Brass fitting however, while it felt a lot sturdier, produced a wiggely fit around the copper pipe. And the push ring was freely moving up and down, appearing loose. I bought only one of those to compare. And if it's not a defective fitting, I would not want these fittings in my build. But it does feel heavier and looks nicer too.

The plastic fittings are well....plastic. But I find their look to blend well with my black rads and my planned black acetal black blocks.

However, I was surprised and disappointed to find a metal toothed ring inside the push-fit mechanism when looking down inside the fitting. Looks like stainless steel but I am not sure. And I can't tell if that toothed ring will be in contact with the coolant. I really hope not!

But if I was not sure, I am certain now. The whole build will use the plastic fittings. Might not be for everyone, but I like them so far. However, I have not run anything with the fittings yet. Just a quick first impression.

I hope this helps, if anyone else was considering those fittings.

They sure are very affordable. For 180$CAN including international UPS I got 35 fittings of various types. Mainly straight fittings tho.

Cheers,
PepeLapiu


----------



## wonderwall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> looks good, but it's a bummer you have a dent in each pipe. Was that an issue with the bender, the pipe, or with the technique?


My bender is Cheap ,it's low profile


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I hope this helps, if anyone else was considering those fittings.
> 
> They sure are very affordable. For 180$CAN including international UPS I got 35 fittings of various types. Mainly straight fittings tho.
> 
> Cheers,
> PepeLapiu


Thanks for the info. It's always good to get alternatives. I do have one concern: There are plastic fittings sold here in the states by McMaster Carr that refuse to let go of the tube once inserted. Pressing the release ring doesn't work. Will those fittings release the tube?


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wonderwall*
> 
> My bender is Cheap ,it's low profile


I would have guessed that the tube was too large for the die in the bender; mismatched sizes.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Aquatuning Black Plastic Push-Fit Fittings
> First Impression*
> 
> Okay, so I have not seen anyone else who has used the Aquatuning plastic push-fits and I though I would give my first impression on them.
> 
> I don't have a loop running yet, so I could not leak test them. I'm sure it's all fine in that regard.
> 
> I was attracted to those fittings because they are dirt cheap when compared to others and they are all plastic. While that might be a turn-off for most, I prefer plastic over adding more mixed metals to my loop (nickel, chrome, and others). I also like that the whole loop can be torn down and put back together really fast. Push-fits are easy to plug in and out.
> 
> 
> If I can keep the entire loop strictly copper and brass, that's my goal.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So I ordered them from Aquatuning 6 days ago, and it only took this long to get from Germany to Western Canada......pretty impressive. I also ordered a few brass/nickel fittings for conparison.
> 
> Sorry about poor picture quality. When God created me, he gave me a choice between good photigraphy skills, and ruggedly good looks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting from the fitting with the pipe connected and going clockwise.
> 
> - 10mm G1/4 plug fitting black plastics
> - 10mm G1/4 plug fitting - black nickel
> - 10mm G1/4 Y plug fitting black brass/nickel thread
> - 10mm G1/4 plug fitting 90° revolvable black plastics
> 
> Firstly, I was scared that the plastic threads would be too soft and too easily stripped. But I found I actually prefer the plastic threads. They produce a more snug fit which will likely not leak even if I were to remove the O-ring. However one will have to be more careful not to strip the thread. This can be seen as a positive. I would rather strip the threads on my 2$ fitting than strip the thread on my 100$ rad ports. Tho a minimum of care will not conclude in any threads being stripped on anything. And I think the coarse threading of G1/4 fittings can easily accomodate those plastic fittings.
> 
> The fit with 10mm copper pipes is very snug and produces a satisfying click when fully inserted.
> The Nickel/Brass fitting however, while it felt a lot sturdier, produced a wiggely fit around the copper pipe. And the push ring was freely moving up and down, appearing loose. I bought only one of those to compare. And if it's not a defective fitting, I would not want these fittings in my build. But it does feel heavier and looks nicer too.
> 
> The plastic fittings are well....plastic. But I find their look to blend well with my black rads and my planned black acetal black blocks.
> 
> However, I was surprised and disappointed to find a metal toothed ring inside the push-fit mechanism when looking down inside the fitting. Looks like stainless steel but I am not sure. And I can't tell if that toothed ring will be in contact with the coolant. I really hope not!
> 
> But if I was not sure, I am certain now. The whole build will use the plastic fittings. Might not be for everyone, but I like them so far. However, I have not run anything with the fittings yet. Just a quick first impression.
> 
> I hope this helps, if anyone else was considering those fittings.
> 
> They sure are very affordable. For 180$CAN including international UPS I got 35 fittings of various types. Mainly straight fittings tho.
> 
> Cheers,
> PepeLapiu


Not wanting to ruin your day or anything, but since you have a radiator (which isn't the aqua-computer one) you always will be having solder in your loop, so you will be mixing metals.
Other than that I believe that the (stainless)-steel ring of your push-fittings won't be in contact with the coolant. The o-ring seal should be before the locking mechanism.


----------



## PepeLapiu

L
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> Thanks for the info. It's always good to get alternatives. I do have one concern: There are plastic fittings sold here in the states by McMaster Carr that refuse to let go of the tube once inserted. Pressing the release ring doesn't work. Will those fittings release the tube?


Push-fits that won't let go? Ha!

Yes, these will slide off when the ring is pressed. I found giving the pipe a light sanding helps a lot. You will likely want to sand your pipes to polish them anyway.

But it's snug in there and I think I'll have to be very exact on my cuts and bends.
Incidentally, I found the all metal fitting one harder to pull out.

I might sound like a plastic fitting fanboi but I am being honest here. I just don't like the all metal ones if they all are like the one I bought.

Also, on some fittings, you have a choice of either metal or plastic thread, with both a plastic body. Such is the case of the 90° that comes in either metal thread and plastic body or all plastic like the one I have in the pic.

Go with whichever your hearth desires. The plastic threaded ones are certainly good enough. You could strip the thread, but I think you'd have to be rather wreckless to do that. A minimum of care will screw them in just fine. And I don't even think you have to worry about screwing them in all the way down to the O-ring. In most cases, I predict the plastic thread itself will be sufficiently sealing the deal...so to speak.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I hope this helps, if anyone else was considering those fittings.
> 
> They sure are very affordable. For 180$CAN including international UPS I got 35 fittings of various types. Mainly straight fittings tho.
> 
> Cheers,
> PepeLapiu
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. It's always good to get alternatives. I do have one concern: There are plastic fittings sold here in the states by McMaster Carr that refuse to let go of the tube once inserted. Pressing the release ring doesn't work. Will those fittings release the tube?
Click to expand...

Push the tube in slightly when you release the lock ring.

If the tube is bent too close to the fitting,it can ovalize it slightly making it hard to insert and remove.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Push the tube in slightly when you release the lock ring.


Precisely!
I work with push-fits all day on my 200 psi compressed air system. So plugging and unplugging these fittings becomes a second nature with me. I didn't even think of mentionning that.


----------



## MedRed

will a 1/2 inch bender work well with 12mm tubing? or should I look for a 12mm bender?


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> will a 1/2 inch bender work well with 12mm tubing? or should I look for a 12mm bender?


1/2 inch is 12.7 mm. So if you already have the bender I would try to wrap the pipe in duct tape to give it that extra 0.7 mm of thickness and see if that works.

Let us know if you try it.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> I believe that the (stainless)-steel ring of your push-fittings won't be in contact with the coolant. The o-ring seal should be before the locking mechanism.


I think you are correct.....I sure hope you are.
The tube appears to slide deep enough, past that metal "toothed ring".


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Push the tube in slightly when you release the lock ring.
> 
> If the tube is bent too close to the fitting,it can ovalize it slightly making it hard to insert and remove.


I ended up using the black brass fittings from Aquatuning. The plastic fittings would hang up on a straight length of tubing. I'll have to give that technique a try the next time I fiddle around with the plastic fittings. Until then, I'll stick with the more idiot-proof brass fittings.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> I ended up using the black brass fittings from Aquatuning. The plastic fittings would hang up on a straight length of tubing. I'll have to give that technique a try the next time I fiddle around with the plastic fittings. Until then, I'll stick with the more idiot-proof brass fittings.


I dont understand what you mean by "hang-up on a straight lenght"?
And it's very posible that the one all brass fitting I got just gappens to be defective. I don't even trust that thing to not leak tbh.


----------



## Escovado

Let me clarify:

While I was building my copper-tubed rig, I got a few of the plastic fittings from McMaster Carr to try out. When pressed onto a tube, the fitting would go all the way in, but I could not get it to release when pushing the release ring. B-Neg suggested that I might have had it too close to a bend in the tube which would distort it and make it difficult to remove. I was testing them on straight tubes with no bends. I bough 4 of the fittings and all 4 got stuck on the tube. This was what I ordered:

Push-to-Connect Fitting for Drinking Water

Instead I used those brass fittings from Aquatuning that were talked about towards the beginning of this thread. Those worked great:

10mm G1/4 plug fitting - black nickel

Now, this guy used those plastic fittings and he didn't seem to have any problems:

Corsair 350D Unique Mod: Close Quarters by SEBAR


----------



## wonderwall

update plated chromium


----------



## PepeLapiu

That looks awsome!








So you got your tubes plated?
Can you have only the outside plated, or are they plated both in and out?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wonderwall*
> 
> update plated chromium


Very slick,I like that a lot


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> will a 1/2 inch bender work well with 12mm tubing? or should I look for a 12mm bender?


I don't have a bender yet. Was wondering what my best option is for bending 12 mm pipe.


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wonderwall*
> 
> update plated chromium


Very nice!


----------



## wonderwall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> That looks awsome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you got your tubes plated?
> Can you have only the outside plated, or are they plated both in and out?


thanks,yes they are plated both inside and outside.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Very slick,I like that a lot


Thank you sir. ^^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> Very nice!


Thank you Escovado ^^


----------



## PepeLapiu

Plated both in and out?
That is unacceptable. You just can't do that, you ruined your case dude.

So here's what you do, there is only one option for you.
Wrap up that mess of a build, and ship the whole thing to me.
Than you start over again, but do it right that time.
And don't worry, I won't charge you anything at all to take your build, I'm a cool guy that way.

Just kidding man, those pipes look sick!


----------



## DaaQ

Here is a rough comparison of the different fittings, Bitspower C47, Monsoon free center hardline 1/2" and Primochill ghost.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Here is a rough comparison of the different fittings, Bitspower C47, Monsoon free center hardline 1/2" and Primochill ghost.


I can't find the outside diameter of the ghost fittings. Do you mind measuring it for me?


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I can't find the outside diameter of the ghost fittings. Do you mind measuring it for me?


Regular ghost or revolver? I think they are same dia anyway but, any preference ?

Regular ghost fittings are 24mm diameter. Or just a hair shy of that. I don't have a digital caliper.

Monsoon chain gun hardline 1/2" are 25mm OD
Monsoon free center hardline 1/2 are 20mm OD
Bitspower C47 are 18mm OD
Primochill revolver are 24mm OD as well.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I can't find the outside diameter of the ghost fittings. Do you mind measuring it for me?
> 
> 
> 
> Regular ghost or revolver? I think they are same dia anyway but, any preference ?
> 
> Regular ghost fittings are 24mm diameter. Or just a hair shy of that. I don't have a digital caliper.
> 
> Monsoon chain gun hardline 1/2" are 25mm OD
> Monsoon free center hardline 1/2 are 20mm OD
> Bitspower C47 are 18mm OD
> Primochill revolver are 24mm OD as well.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks! +rep

I meant the ghost but any was fine. I wanted to check to make sure it'd fit my Koolance 380 block.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Some of my bends get squashed up. I am using 10mm copper pipes with a 10mm Rigid bender. I make a nice smooth motion. Some bends come out fine, some others don't.
Anybody knows what I am doing wrong?
How do I prevent this?


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Some of my bends get squashed up. I am using 10mm copper pipes with a 10mm Rigid bender. I make a nice smooth motion. Some bends come out fine, some others don't.
> Anybody knows what I am doing wrong?
> How do I prevent this?


Try oiling up the the parts of the bender that are in contact with the pipe?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Some of my bends get squashed up. I am using 10mm copper pipes with a 10mm Rigid bender. I make a nice smooth motion. Some bends come out fine, some others don't.
> Anybody knows what I am doing wrong?
> How do I prevent this?


Sounds like pipeslip or a tube that is too hard.....


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Some of my bends get squashed up. I am using 10mm copper pipes with a 10mm Rigid bender. I make a nice smooth motion. Some bends come out fine, some others don't.
> Anybody knows what I am doing wrong?
> How do I prevent this?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sounds like pipeslip or a tube that is too hard.....


The pipe being too hard or it slipping is the only thing I can think of too. I used that annealed coiled tubing, which is easy to bend, and a 10mm Rigid bender. Where does the tube get squashed?


----------



## PepeLapiu

It sqashes on the outside of the bend. I was thinling about annealing the pipes. Going to bring home my propane torch. Thanx guys.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Try oiling up the the parts of the bender that are in contact with the pipe?


If I do that, won't it slip more?


----------



## PepeLapiu

So I am going to anneal my pipes. It will make the bends easier anyway.
But the slipping in the bender, how do I prevent that from happening?
I was thinking, maybe wrapping the pipe in duct tape, only the part where the finger grips. So as to prevent slipping. Any better idea?


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> So I am going to anneal my pipes. It will make the bends easier anyway.
> But the slipping in the bender, how do I prevent that from happening?
> I was thinking, maybe wrapping the pipe in duct tape, only the part where the finger grips. So as to prevent slipping. Any better idea?


What bender do you have?


----------



## PepeLapiu

Ridgid 10mm


----------



## DaaQ

Are they brand new or used well? You may want to try and get a hold of some scrap pieces to maybe get some wear on them. If I'm thinking of your problem correctly, the top handle (without the degree marks on it) is pulling the pipe through the former? instead of rolling the pipe over it. That correct?


----------



## PepeLapiu

They are brand new.
The bottom lever in the pic rolls the pipe around the round die of the top lever. The pipe is looked in at the start of the round die, and the bottom lever presses it around the die by circling the flat bottom die around it. That's how just about most benders work.

First pic shows a peice of pipe locked in and ready to bend.
Second pic shows a bend formed at 45°.


----------



## DaaQ

I think I'm following you, we're just saying it different.

So the flat die, is it grabbing onto the tube and crushing it, or is the round die slipping and throwing off your degree scale? Or somewhat both?


----------



## PepeLapiu

I can't notice any slipping from the locked position, but I was not paying attention to that either.
Also the flat die can't really crush the pipe because there is a 10mm round space between the two dies.

I'v scrapped most of my pipes anyway. I have to order more.
I am going to anneal the pipes when I try again, and I'll wrap the piece that gets locked in duct tape so the lock grabs on better and doesn't let it slip.


----------



## DaaQ

You said it squashes on the outside of the bend, sorry I may have mistook what you meant.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Yes, it squashes on the outside of the bend. But it's not caused by the dies crushing the pipe. Something else is causing it. Probably slipping from the lock or tubes too hard to bend properly.


----------



## abirli

the 12mm straight copper pipe on mcMaster- Carr i was told isnt bendable. what gives?


----------



## PepeLapiu

It's bendable.
There are two sorts of pipes, the coiled soft pnes, and the hard straight ones

The pipes most of us are bending is the "non bendable" kind. It's just not bendable for a plummer's use.....if that makes sense.

Also, you should try coppertubingsales.com
If they have your size (12mm) they will be a lot more affordable. You just have to insist that they should cut it into 4-5 ft pieces, and not send you a 20 ft piece in one lenght.

You have to buy the whole 20 ft piece......but you will need the whole piece anyway

I paid 75$ for my 10mm with them, and I need to buy more because I crapoed most of it with bad bends.

But my loop is extremely complex


----------



## Krusher33

When they were determining how describe the pipes, they gave it to a woman.

She just looks at one and says "oooh, it bends!"

She looked at the other one and said "this one does not bend".

Clueless that there are tools to bend it.


----------



## nowva

Hi, its a nice build, do you have a link to your supplier for the pre-plated pipe in the UK, or did you buy it bare copper then get it plated then bend it ? 40 pages into this thread but cant see any link sorry if you have already posted it









Thanks in advance.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Is there no way to connect 3/8" pipe to 10mm fittings? Not really a fan of the blue lip on the mettleairs.


----------



## PepeLapiu

3/8' is about 9.5mm so I'd say it would be too loose.
You can buy 10mm pipes from coppertubingsales.com.
You'll have to insist they don't ship you the whole 20 ft piece in one lenght and cut it for you. You have to buy the whole 20 ft piece tho. But it's the cheapest place I could find for around 75$ plus shipping.

Or you could try with 3/8 pipes and only buy the 10mm pipes if it doesn't work.

If I were to do it again, I would get 12mm fittings and use 1/2" pipes sanded down to 12mm. But I already tolled up for 10mm pipes.


----------



## Simplynicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> 3/8' is about 9.5mm so I'd say it would be too loose.
> You can buy 10mm pipes from coppertubingsales.com.
> You'll have to insist they don't ship you the whole 20 ft piece in one lenght and cut it for you. You have to buy the whole 20 ft piece tho. But it's the cheapest place I could find for around 75$ plus shipping.
> 
> Or you could try with 3/8 pipes and only buy the 10mm pipes if it doesn't work.
> 
> If I were to do it again, I would get 12mm fittings and use 1/2" pipes sanded down to 12mm. But I already tolled up for 10mm pipes.


not a bad idea.
i'm going to assume that 1/2 pipe is cheaper.
what 10mm fittings did you use?
what 12mm fittings would you use?


----------



## Krusher33

Don't Monsoon have 3/8" fittings for hardlines?


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> 3/8' is about 9.5mm so I'd say it would be too loose.
> You can buy 10mm pipes from coppertubingsales.com.
> You'll have to insist they don't ship you the whole 20 ft piece in one lenght and cut it for you. You have to buy the whole 20 ft piece tho. But it's the cheapest place I could find for around 75$ plus shipping.
> 
> Or you could try with 3/8 pipes and only buy the 10mm pipes if it doesn't work.
> 
> If I were to do it again, I would get 12mm fittings and use 1/2" pipes sanded down to 12mm. But I already tolled up for 10mm pipes.


Reason I ask, is I found some already chromed copper tubing in 3/8", I don't plan on making a lot of 90 degree bends so hopefully crazing won't be too bad. They don't sell metric pipes in Canada







. Can I not put some Teflon tape at the end to increase thickness or something?


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> not a bad idea.
> i'm going to assume that 1/2 pipe is cheaper.
> what 10mm fittings did you use?
> what 12mm fittings would you use?


I am using these ones for the 10mm pipes. They are good and dirt cheap.
For 1/2 inch, I would use the cristal link fittings.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> Reason I ask, is I found some already chromed copper tubing in 3/8", I don't plan on making a lot of 90 degree bends so hopefully crazing won't be too bad. They don't sell metric pipes in Canada
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Can I not put some Teflon tape at the end to increase thickness or something?


Teflon tape will likely not stay put. Maybe duct tape?
And the more bends you have, the easier the pipe will fit in the fitting. All straight fittings would be hard to do I think.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Teflon tape will likely not stay put. Maybe duct tape?
> And the more bends you have, the easier the pipe will fit in the fitting. All straight fittings would be hard to do I think.


Maybe someone with 10mm fittings and 3/8" pipe could test for us? I don't think tape would be a very good idea in the first place, but it wouldn't hurt to try.


----------



## deafboy

The fittings would likely tear up the tape.


----------



## sushisky

Really wanna use the BP SLI fittings. Just not sure about risking leaks.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sushisky*
> 
> Really wanna use the BP SLI fittings. Just not sure about risking leaks.


Many people have used the bigger ones without problems because they have 2 rings inside. Some folks have used the smaller ones ok as well but there is a greater risk on those because they only have 1 ring.

I'm using a pair right now and they're fine. Will be adding more as I bend more.


----------



## Simplynicko

It appears that the EK ones have two o-rings aswell. And I believe it can be used with copper


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> The fittings would likely tear up the tape.


Yes, for sure teflon tape would not work. I can tear it easy by rubbing my finger on it. But duct tape? I don't know. 3/8" is only 0.475mm short of 10mm. Maybe it could fit without adding anything to it.
I think eventually the manufacturers will come up with fittings for 3/8" and 1/2" tubing. Those sizes copper tubes are a lot cheaper in North America, easier to find too.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Yes, for sure teflon tape would not work. I can tear it easy by rubbing my finger on it. But duct tape? I don't know. 3/8" is only 0.475mm short of 10mm. Maybe it could fit without adding anything to it.
> I think eventually the manufacturers will come up with fittings for 3/8" and 1/2" tubing. Those sizes copper tubes are a lot cheaper in North America, easier to find too.


I think it was already proven earlier that 3\8 pipe and 10mm fittings leak.


----------



## housefly88

3/8 on 10mm will leak.

Use correct tube with correct diameter pipe. Will save alot of headaches and you won't have to buy twice.

Hard pipe Rule #1 3/8 fitting is ment for 3/8 pipe
10mm fitting is for 10mm pipe
Etc...

Just trying to save you a potential headache down the road. If you spend xx.xx on a rig, don't cheat your self on non matching pipe and fittings, the leaks that will more than Likley occur will cost you more than buying the correct sizes now.

http://s14.photobucket.com/user/Hou...6-49CF-BE87-553006A1847E_zpspcj44hho.jpg.html


----------



## wonderwall

Test the system.


----------



## Ouro

Is the MMC copper pipe seen here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9935k16/=qwb65r already plated? I've been digging through the thread but I didn't find a direct confirmation of this.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> Is the MMC copper pipe seen here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9935k16/=qwb65r already plated? I've been digging through the thread but I didn't find a direct confirmation of this.


Looks like bare copper pipe to me. Don't trust that image, it's not of the pipe.

For bare copper pipes, you will find a much better price at coppertubingsales.com.
But I am guessing you want plated pipes.
I would be afraid that the plating might crack when bending the pipes, I don't know. I know some guys were able to do it.
I'd get my pipes plated after they are bent and cut, to be on the safe side.


----------



## Ouro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Looks like bare copper pipe to me. Don't trust that image, it's not of the pipe.
> 
> For bare copper pipes, you will find a much better price at coppertubingsales.com.
> But I am guessing you want plated pipes.
> I would be afraid that the plating might crack when bending the pipes, I don't know. I know some guys were able to do it.
> I'd get my pipes plated after they are bent and cut, to be on the safe side.


It seems like plating them will make the project a lot more expensive!

What about sanding->priming->painting? Is that possible?


----------



## PepeLapiu

Sure. My copper pipes will just be polished to a shine. But you can very well paint them any color you wish.
Me, I like the look of shiny bare copper.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> It seems like plating them will make the project a lot more expensive!
> 
> What about sanding->priming->painting? Is that possible?


You can just use chrome spray paint if you want that kind of look. Looks very close to the real deal.


----------



## nowva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Looks like bare copper pipe to me. Don't trust that image, it's not of the pipe.
> 
> For bare copper pipes, you will find a much better price at coppertubingsales.com.
> But I am guessing you want plated pipes.
> I would be afraid that the plating might crack when bending the pipes, I don't know. I know some guys were able to do it.
> I'd get my pipes plated after they are bent and cut, to be on the safe side.


Hi, what do you pay to get them plated ?


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nowva*
> 
> Hi, what do you pay to get them plated ?


I have no idea what the cost would be.
There is a guy in the last few pages on this thread who had it done. Look him up and PM him for that info I guess.

Problem with plating is you might have to plate both the inside and outside of the pipe. And I hesitate to introduce more metals in my loop (chrome and/or nickel).
Some chrome paints might actually look pretty good and get close to the real thing if done right.....for a lot cheaper too. I'm a motorcycle rider and a big fan of motorcycles. A lot of them have plastic parts painted like chrome and you wouldn't know the difference unless you tapped on it to find out it's plastic. I don't know how they do it thought.


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Yes, it squashes on the outside of the bend. But it's not caused by the dies crushing the pipe. Something else is causing it. Probably slipping from the lock or tubes too hard to bend properly.


I had this happen when I ended up with tubing that was thinner walled. Thicker walled tube solved this. However I noticed that I had to be careful when selecting tube because of manufacturing differences.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> I had this happen when I ended up with tubing that was thinner walled. Thicker walled tube solved this. However I noticed that I had to be careful when selecting tube because of manufacturing differences.


You think annealing my pipes will help?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> You think annealing my pipes will help?


I'm not sure how much it would help. I would think the heat would help with the bend. The only way to see if it works is to try


----------



## housefly88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nowva*
> 
> Hi, what do you pay to get them plated ?


If your in the US hit me up about plating, im about to plate another batch, its actually not that expensive to plate, at least not locally , also no reason not to plate the inside and outside.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> I had this happen when I ended up with tubing that was thinner walled. Thicker walled tube solved this. However I noticed that I had to be careful when selecting tube because of manufacturing differences.
> 
> 
> 
> You think annealing my pipes will help?
Click to expand...

Yes,it will very much.


----------



## kpforce1

I finally leak tested my loop in Force1.... 34 koolance copper tube fittings and not a single leak! Woot.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> I finally leak tested my loop in Force1.... 34 koolance copper tube fittings and not a single leak! Woot.


My understanding is that each components of a loop needs one piece of tubing, and two fittings. So with 34 fittings, you basically have 17 componenrs?
Is this for real? Got a build log?


----------



## kpforce1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> My understanding is that each components of a loop needs one piece of tubing, and two fittings. So with 34 fittings, you basically have 17 componenrs?
> Is this for real? Got a build log?


Not 17 "components" (board blocks, 2 CPU's, 4 GPUs, external radiator, reservoir, dual pumps) ... but I do have a build log HERE


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpforce1*
> 
> Not 17 "components" (board blocks, 2 CPU's, 4 GPUs, external radiator, reservoir, dual pumps) ... but I do have a build log HERE
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh I can't wait to put all of my Koolance fittings to use.


----------



## Simplynicko

i see the koolance fittings have the MM and imperial in the same product code. what is it REALLY made for? will it leak if i used imperial copper tubing?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> i see the koolance fittings have the MM and imperial in the same product code. what is it REALLY made for? will it leak if i used imperial copper tubing?


So the way I understand it is the fittings are designed to be used with metric ferrules but you can swap them out with say 3/8 ferrules.


----------



## Simplynicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> So the way I understand it is the fittings are designed to be used with metric ferrules but you can swap them out with say 3/8 ferrules.


having ferrules adds one more degree of complexity.

can anyone recommend the cheapest copper pipe/fitting combo? Honestly I would prefer the push fittings, regardless of aesthetic look.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> having ferrules adds one more degree of complexity.
> 
> can anyone recommend the cheapest copper pipe/fitting combo? Honestly I would prefer the push fittings, regardless of aesthetic look.


For the chepest 10mm copper pipes, you can't beat cuppertubingsales.com
You will have to buy the whole 20 foot pipe tho. They don't do a lot of small orders so you might have to fight them a bit to get them to cut the pipe to 4-5 foot lenghts

For the cheapest push-fit fittings, by far you can't beat the Aquatuning plastic fittings at around 2-3$ eacb for the straight ones. They are the push-fits I use.


----------



## Simplynicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> For the chepest 10mm copper pipes, you can't beat cuppertubingsales.com
> You will have to buy the whole 20 foot pipe tho. They don't do a lot of small orders so you might have to fight them a bit to get them to cut the pipe to 4-5 foot lenghts
> 
> For the cheapest push-fit fittings, by far you can't beat the Aquatuning plastic fittings at around 2-3$ eacb for the straight ones. They are the push-fits I use.


can you link me to the specific tube you used? i've been reading alot about tube walls being too thin and buckling while bending.
also, what bender did you use?


----------



## PepeLapiu

I used the 10mm Ridgid brand bender.
Here is the link to the tubing I used. The picture shows coiled tubing but mine was drawn straight tubing. I suggest you make the order by phone so you can ask if it's straight or coiled. You will need to make the order by phone anyway to request them to cut it down for shipping. They will tell you they are not equiped to make nice straight cuts. Tell them you don't need perfect cuts.
And wall thickness is 1mm. Some bends did buckle a little bit. But I am told annealing the pipe (heating it with a propane torch an letting it air cool slowly) will greatly help the bending and prevent the buckling. I haven't tried it yet but I am sure annealing the pipe will work just fine.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simplynicko*
> 
> having ferrules adds one more degree of complexity.
> 
> can anyone recommend the cheapest copper pipe/fitting combo? Honestly I would prefer the push fittings, regardless of aesthetic look.


If you want the cheapest. Assuming you're in North America. You can get 10ft of 3/8" copper tubing from home depot for around $10. And these pneumatic fittings http://www.ebay.ca/itm/260453196642?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 for $22~ shipped. People here have used them, and they seem to work.


----------



## PepeLapiu

To those who are wishing for a polished bare copper look, I came across this item on amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003BG53EI/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&smid=A2F8KAB7F15GZF
I think it would be a good idea to prevent the copper from tarnishing, and remaining shiny longer.
I might actually use it on my pipes and on the exposed parts of my copper blocks, as I am going for an all copper look.


----------



## Jetskyer

Very much WIP but getting somewhere now, finally. Bending is fully done now though so I figured I might just as well post here:

sorry for the crappy cellphone pic, once it's completely finished (if that even exists) I'll make proper photo's.


----------



## adamcobabe

Does it seem like the options for 12mm fittings has dwindled? E22 has stopped even carrying fittings. They had some nice ones 6 months or so ago. What happened? What are the current options for 12mm fittings now? There are the Bitspower and EK-HD fittings, but for something stronger the options seem to have dried up. All the bookmarks I made when I read through this epic thread last time don't have what I remember marking.


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamcobabe*
> 
> Does it seem like the options for 12mm fittings has dwindled? E22 has stopped even carrying fittings. They had some nice ones 6 months or so ago. What happened? What are the current options for 12mm fittings now? There are the Bitspower and EK-HD fittings, but for something stronger the options seem to have dried up. All the bookmarks I made when I read through this epic thread last time don't have what I remember marking.


^^ Was going to ask the same thing.
I know it was mentioned in the thread already but just to be sure...these Camozzi Fittings S6510-12 1/4 any good for the copper tubing (12/10) ?
Reading from the specs only thing that's a bit holding me towards those (if they are good) is the the G1/4 thread is 7mm long (including the oring) a bit at the edge for some short ports...
The oring seems good one as it holds the tube around it

I also found the tubing 12/10 (already annealed) but i'm not sure for the fittings though..

I thank in advance for the suggestions and help









Edit: on a side note those might work with acrylic tubing too just in case, would they ?


----------



## adamcobabe

That's funny, I was also wondering about those exact Camozzi fittings. I emailed one of the suppliers and he sent this reply back.
Quote:


> I forwarded this question over to Camozzi technical and this is the answer they came back with.
> 
> All push to connect fittings are technically allowed a certain leak rate (ISO standard calls for 1cc/min) Most of our push to connect fittings do not leak but there may be a few that might. The issue is that if the coolant were to leak, where does it go? Could it damage the computer?


Anyway, I suspect that's the case with all of the other push to connect fittings mentioned in this thread that people have tried.


----------



## nowva

they look like a tapered thread, don't know if they would be suitable for use with plastic water blocks / res etc, might split it if you over tighten, This might be better only concern would be the size of the nut part, might be to large for some connections

i have found These, with a tool for grooving the end of the pipe, expensive tho at £19 per fitting and £200 for the pre grooving tool


----------



## oc_geek

Yes you are right the cylindrical thread is the model X6512 12-1/4 and X6522 12-1/4 (90 degrees bend)
The nut/body is 20mm wide.
The 12mm OD rigid tubing would go in for 20mm
and the oring seal appers to be around the mid of that




Would be good to know if anyone has experience with this kind of fittings
to see if it's a suitable choice or a more classic EK / BP would be still a better choice


----------



## oc_geek

Here is a little update.

I decided to buy some tubing and few fittings to test with.
Here is what i went for (from landefeld.de) :

1) *Festo* fittings straight NPQM-D-G14-Q12-P10 OT-FESTO 028946


2) Copper tube 12x1,0mm, R 250 (semi-hard) 5m

3) Straight push in fitting G1/4" RIB 01 12 13 CV (this is the version with "Viton" high temp grade carbon rubber)


4) Elbow push in fitting G1/4" RIB 99 12 13 CV


Let's see what comes....








let me know if something looks going in the wrong direction....

On a side note i have a question (i went through all the 156 pages of the thread...)
If one decides to try the chrome plating of the copper tube isn't it somehow changing the dimensions (perhaps not significantly but stil....) of the tube
or introduce a good chance to make it more slippery for the fitting oring/ retainer to grab ?
Thanks


----------



## PepeLapiu

The plating is extremely thin. Not likely to make a difference.
As for slippery, I work with push-fits all day at work for 2-300 psi air limes.
I can dip my tubing in oil before plugging it and it still holds well....well enough for 200 psi anyway.
So our less than 5 psi coolant will likely not be a problem.


----------



## oc_geek

Sounds promising thanks
I hope the fittings i took for testing will work well and i'll be able to bend properly the med hard copper pipes (i got 5m so far...) LOL 

Thanks


----------



## Ouro

Anyone here mess with any of the Caswell electroless nickel plating kits?


----------



## adamcobabe

Quote:


> 1) Festo fittings straight NPQM-D-G14-Q12-P10 OT-FESTO 028946


These look promising. Nice find.


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek*
> 
> Here is a little update.
> 
> I decided to buy some tubing and few fittings to test with.
> Here is what i went for (from landefeld.de) :
> 
> 1) *Festo* fittings straight NPQM-D-G14-Q12-P10 OT-FESTO 028946
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Copper tube 12x1,0mm, R 250 (semi-hard) 5m
> 
> 3) Straight push in fitting G1/4" RIB 01 12 13 CV (this is the version with "Viton" high temp grade carbon rubber)
> 
> 4) Elbow push in fitting G1/4" RIB 99 12 13 CV
> 
> Let's see what comes....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> let me know if something looks going in the wrong direction....
> 
> On a side note i have a question (i went through all the 156 pages of the thread...)
> If one decides to try the chrome plating of the copper tube isn't it somehow changing the dimensions (perhaps not significantly but stil....) of the tube
> or introduce a good chance to make it more slippery for the fitting oring/ retainer to grab ?
> Thanks


The fittings and tubing arrived today. Look nice (i had no chance to test them yet.... Let me share few pics of those

The Festo and RIB are exactly identical (but the price which is better for Festo ones). Th RIB i took have a green orings which are more sturdy (Viton variant). I'll report back in some time after i try them with the tube and some liquid in a test cicuit.
At the eye those look nice


----------



## Simplynicko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek*
> 
> The fittings and tubing arrived today. Look nice (i had no chance to test them yet.... Let me share few pics of those
> 
> The Festo and RIB are exactly identical (but the price which is better for Festo ones). Th RIB i took have a green orings which are more sturdy (Viton variant). I'll report back in some time after i try them with the tube and some liquid in a test cicuit.
> At the eye those look nice


where did you buy them from? link?


----------



## Michalius

Some Googling led me here:

https://www.festo.com/cat/en-us_us/products_NPQH


----------



## nowva

what bender are you using for the 12mm pipe ?


----------



## adamcobabe

I think to buy directly from Festo you have to be a business/reseller. I believe oc_geek mentioned he got them from landefeld.de. Looks like he's in Europe.


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamcobabe*
> 
> I think to buy directly from Festo you have to be a business/reseller. I believe oc_geek mentioned he got them from landefeld.de. Looks like he's in Europe.


Yes that's exactly correct on both points

For bender i've found (again EU residents here) very good shop in Uk (toolstop)
which resells RidGid tools (they also have ones for SS)
I'll take Bender 12mm, Reamer and Cutter there

Cheers

...ohh almost forgot TH10 just landed home





















hehe


----------



## adamcobabe

Has anyone tried the Bitspower *Enhanced* Multi-Link adapters with copper pipe? I'm guessing it's similar to using acrylic. Just wondering if these are any more secure than the standard C47.

http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092930&kind2=51


----------



## Divey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamcobabe*
> 
> Has anyone tried the Bitspower *Enhanced* Multi-Link adapters with copper pipe? I'm guessing it's similar to using acrylic. Just wondering if these are any more secure than the standard C47.
> 
> http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81092930&kind2=51


I have just finished my build using those on acrylic and to me they work fine except they seem kinda hard to push the pipe into. I have never tried anything else so it's hard to say if that's normal. Getting them in was way harder than bending the pipe itself but with the double o ring design there is some leeway.


----------



## abirli

quick question, the "non bendable" description on the mcmaster-carr website is throwing me off

if i get the 12mm straight length ( 9935K16) and a rigid 412m bender (12mm bender)

can i bend the pipe in 90 degree turns or not?

thanks


----------



## PepeLapiu

Yes you can.
Non-bendable is bendable.
And if you have trouble bending a piece, you can anneal the piece, or heat it up and let it cool, to soften it up.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Yes you can.
> Non-bendable is bendable.
> And if you have trouble bending a piece, you can anneal the piece, or heat it up and let it cool, to soften it up.


thank you +REP


----------



## dna-systems

This is what my finished product looks like. Used 1/2" tube bender from here http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/product_p/ct364-08.htm
Soft copper coil 25' from here http://www.nybrewsupply.com/plumbing-fittings-tubing/tubing/copper-tubing.html .

Wasn't too hard given that I had never done it before, but now I'm looking forward to a planned redo once I splurge on a caselabs or little devil case. This time around I will have the finished tube polished, painted or plated.


----------



## sushisky

Has anyone ever experienced a leak with BP C47 fittings? Anyone tested the enhanced crystal link fittings? Really wanna do this but I'm worried about leaks .-.
I'll probably use bitspower angle fittings and ordinary olive fittings if the C47s aren't safe.

Also, is there any real benefit to plating both the inside and the outside? (The local electroplaters charge extra for the inside)


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*


Wow that looks amazing. great job!


----------



## dna-systems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sushisky*
> 
> Has anyone ever experienced a leak with BP C47 fittings? Anyone tested the enhanced crystal link fittings? Really wanna do this but I'm worried about leaks .-.
> I'll probably use bitspower angle fittings and ordinary olive fittings if the C47s aren't safe.
> 
> Also, is there any real benefit to plating both the inside and the outside? (The local electroplaters charge extra for the inside)


I don't see any real measurable benefit to plating the inside. Most of the copper or stainless steel has a smooth enough bore to not impede flow. I did, however, clean each of the cut & bent pieces with a plastic bristle pipe cleaner before installation. I don't have any experience with the C47's. The fittings I used were 12 mm OD Primochill Revolver Rigid Compression. When I switch cases, I will be swapping over to the BP crystal link double o-ring fittings. That said, I have not had any leaks and have taken apart and put back together multiple times...due to Indigo xTreme disappointment.


----------



## dna-systems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Wow that looks amazing. great job!


Thanks man!


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*
> 
> Thanks man!


Get a CL case man. Expensive but you won't regret it.
My STH10 can fit 15x120 or 14x140 withouth any air recycling.
And the build quality is out of this world.
I'll never need to buy an other case again.


----------



## Elmy

https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t31.0-8/p180x540/1941506_10152053450632672_1162679376_o.jpg


----------



## DanielCoffey

Hello folks - I am in the planning stages for a CaseLabs S8 build in white and I intend to use bare natural copper tube in the build. To begin with it will be single CPU, single GPU, single pump, a tube res and two 120.3 60mm rads.

I have had a read back ten pages or so on the thread and wondered what the current consensus is between 10mm and 12mm tube.

So that advice can be targeted, I am in the UK and there are a few online suppliers for 12mm straight (mainly medical) and many for 10mm rolls. I have not yet settled on a UK or Euro supplier for fittings since I understand from the thread that there are some new choices being investigated by forum members at the moment so would like advice there too.

I will be treating myself to a RidGid bender, reamer and cutter of the appropriate size.


----------



## dna-systems

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> Hello folks - I am in the planning stages for a CaseLabs S8 build in white and I intend to use bare natural copper tube in the build. To begin with it will be single CPU, single GPU, single pump, a tube res and two 120.3 60mm rads.
> 
> I have had a read back ten pages or so on the thread and wondered what the current consensus is between 10mm and 12mm tube.
> 
> So that advice can be targeted, I am in the UK and there are a few online suppliers for 12mm straight (mainly medical) and many for 10mm rolls. I have not yet settled on a UK or Euro supplier for fittings since I understand from the thread that there are some new choices being investigated by forum members at the moment so would like advice there too.
> 
> I will be treating myself to a RidGid bender, reamer and cutter of the appropriate size.






As far as coil vs straight...coil copper (rolls) is usually annealed and ready for bending with a hand held bender. Straight copper tube is typically harder... 10mm vs 12mm is down to preference for the most part. 12mm (which is what I have in my build), obviously gives a higher flow over 10mm. After doing tons of research through OCN, and various other sites, I will be dropping to 10mm copper or 316 SS tube on my next build, mainly for tighter bends and easier routing. If your pump is moving the water like it should, -2mm diff should not make that much a bottleneck. Hope this helps out and good luck...this is a great place to get the info you need for a great build.


----------



## Simplynicko

why isn't 3/8 inch being used?


----------



## DanielCoffey

Thanks for the advice, dna-systems. It looks like 10mm gives me the broadest choice of fittings as well as tools since 12mm appears to be relegated to medical gas lines these days.

When I am polishing the bare copper, do you recommend spray lacquer or a micro-crystalline wax to keep off fingerprints and surface oxidising?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Laqueur,it holds fingerprints off better than a wax.


----------



## DanielCoffey

I thought so. I have some museum grade Renaissance Wax that I use for keeping bronzes dust-free but they are oxidised already. I just wondered if it would keep the tubes looking clean since some folks on Car Restoration forums were talking about wax polishes on brake pipes.


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elmy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t31.0-8/p180x540/1941506_10152053450632672_1162679376_o.jpg


So clean, I love it!


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> So clean, I love it!


I was lost for a good two minutes, not understanding what I was looking at. Until I figured out that tmobo is inverted.









Yeah, great job.....5 monitors?
Lol


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> So clean, I love it!


Thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I was lost for a good two minutes, not understanding what I was looking at. Until I figured out that tmobo is inverted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, great job.....5 monitors?
> Lol


Thanks

5 debezelled Asus VG248QE monitors at 120Hz


----------



## DanielCoffey

Has anyone in the UK spotted a source for straight lengths of 10mm semi-hard copper tube? Everything I can find online is annealed coil and I would prefer straight if it was readily available.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elmy*
> 
> Thanks
> Thanks
> 
> 5 debezelled Asus VG248QE monitors at 120Hz


OT, I know, but I thought that AMD fixed the frame tearing thing on multi-monitor displays? Was this before the patch was out?


----------



## DanielCoffey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> Has anyone in the UK spotted a source for straight lengths of 10mm semi-hard copper tube? Everything I can find online is annealed coil and I would prefer straight if it was readily available.


Phew - it took a while but I have found a supplier of 10mm x 0.6mm x 6m semi-hard straight lengths (shipped as 2x3m pieces) at fwb.co.uk. They charge £8.89 ex vat for each 2x3m and shipping is only £4.95 ex vat.


----------



## DanielCoffey

Tube Cutter question... I know there are two types - the cheap cylinder ones that you pop over the tube and rotate and the more expensive and larger ones with a thumb screw that seem to support the tube better and can have their cutter wheels changed.

Given a compact 90deg - short straight - 90deg bend, are you able to use the larger thumb screw cutters in this situation? I am talking about short bends where the tube comes up, bends in a right angle, along and goes back down in the same plane such as between two parallel radiators.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> Has anyone in the UK spotted a source for straight lengths of 10mm semi-hard copper tube? Everything I can find online is annealed coil and I would prefer straight if it was readily available.
> 
> 
> 
> Phew - it took a while but I have found a supplier of 10mm x 0.6mm x 6m semi-hard straight lengths (shipped as 2x3m pieces) at fwb.co.uk. They charge £8.89 ex vat for each 2x3m and shipping is only £4.95 ex vat.
Click to expand...

Be aware the hardness value of the tube,I get pipe from fwb all the time.
Also be aware fwb are mailbox spam monkeys.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> Tube Cutter question... I know there are two types - the cheap cylinder ones that you pop over the tube and rotate and the more expensive and larger ones with a thumb screw that seem to support the tube better and can have their cutter wheels changed.
> 
> Given a compact 90deg - short straight - 90deg bend, are you able to use the larger thumb screw cutters in this situation? I am talking about short bends where the tube comes up, bends in a right angle, along and goes back down in the same plane such as between two parallel radiators.


The smaller autocuts are far and away better than manual cutters,they support the tube better and cut evenly,if you are unused to manual cutters they can 50p the ends (flatspots).


----------



## DanielCoffey

Thanks for the tip on the cutters and tube - I will be getting a good 10mm bender to get nice precise bends. I may also make a temp email address to register with FWB in that case. I don't intend to be a frequent customer.

I figured I would order three or four 6m lengths to give me some practice and training material and then offer the scrap on my local FreeCycle group when I am done practicing. My loop will be straightforward since I have plenty of space to work in the S8 and only a pair of rads to reach.

Out of interest, do you have a preferred method for polishing the tube? I know the old vinegar/baking powder/salt paste will get it clean but will it get it smooth too?


----------



## justinnx

Hi guys needs some help, just want to make sure I am getting the right stuff. Will these fittings work with this pipe? (10 MM OD x 10 METER
[10MMX8X10]


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justinnx*
> 
> Hi guys needs some help, just want to make sure I am getting the right stuff. Will these fittings work with this pipe? (10 MM OD x 10 METER
> [10MMX8X10]


Yes


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *justinnx*
> 
> Hi guys needs some help, just want to make sure I am getting the right stuff. Will these fittings work with this pipe? (10 MM OD x 10 METER
> [10MMX8X10]
> 
> 
> 
> Yes
Click to expand...

Correct,I used the same fittings myself.


----------



## justinnx

Thanks guys!


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justinnx*
> 
> Thanks guys!


My only concern is this:
Where are you going to find a case that can fit a 10 meter long tube?


----------



## DanielCoffey

One of the BIG Caselabs... with a LOT of pedestals?


----------



## DanielCoffey

Are there any technical reasons why I should not use some 10mm tube as a "sleeve" for 6-pin and 8-pin power leads to the GPU rather than using mesh sleeving?

If I was going to take off the connector to re-sleeve the lead anyway, it might lake a nice feature if the GPU power leads came up inside copper from the lower compartment of the S8 case next to the GPU and did a nice 180 at the top to present the connectors to the GPU.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> Are there any technical reasons why I should not use some 10mm tube as a "sleeve" for 6-pin and 8-pin power leads to the GPU rather than using mesh sleeving?
> 
> If I was going to take off the connector to re-sleeve the lead anyway, it might lake a nice feature if the GPU power leads came up inside copper from the lower compartment of the S8 case next to the GPU and did a nice 180 at the top to present the connectors to the GPU.


That's actually a neet idea. I just might do that on some of my cables.


----------



## DanielCoffey

You might even be able to route fan cables and so on inside 8 mil microbore too. No fittings needed of course, just a bender and some way of anchoring to the case at strategic points. A little heatshrink as the cables emerge from the tube perhaps?

It might be suitable for a mainly copper themed build (such a shame the copper aquatube is discontinued).


----------



## DanielCoffey

Bending defects - help needed.

I have received my Ridgid 410M today and am getting badly flattened outsides and slight ripples on the inside of my bends and I suspect I need advising on the correct use of the bender. The tube I am using is 10mm OD 0.6mm wall semi-hard straight.

I thought at first the tube was dragging so put a single thickness of masking tape round the start of the bend to mark my zero point and flipped up the clamp. With both 0 marks lined up, I then made a steady 90 deg bend. The flattening began almost immediately and the ripple on the inner radius was confined to the last half of the bend.

If there is anything I need to check on the tool or tube, I do have a set of calipers.


----------



## PepeLapiu

I use the same bender on 10mm OD, but 1mm walls.
I experienced the flattening on the outside of the bend, but not the inside wrinkles.
However, based on B Neg's advise, I annealed the pipes before bending and the problem is solved.

You'll have to get a propane torch and heat up the part you want to bend. Heat it up as much as possible. And let it cool down slowly at room temperature.
That should soften up your pipe.
But your walls are thinner than mine, so the problem should be more pronounced with.yours.
You might have to anneal it twice before bending
And don't worry about the discoloration. A quick sanding will take care of that later on.


----------



## DanielCoffey

I have checked the tube and 410M with the catheters and they are definitely matched properly so we can eliminate that.

Fortunately the tube is not being crushed - it seems to be reaching the limit of stretch for 0.6mm walls and is then flattening. I can eliminate the ripple by making the bend slowly but the flattening does not vary at all with speed. To be honest I can probably put up with it for now as it is not tearing and is still strong enough for the job it needs to do. I will polish up a piece and see how noticeable it is.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> I have checked the tube and 410M with the catheters and they are definitely matched properly so we can eliminate that.
> 
> Fortunately the tube is not being crushed - it seems to be reaching the limit of stretch for 0.6mm walls and is then flattening. I can eliminate the ripple by making the bend slowly but the flattening does not vary at all with speed. To be honest I can probably put up with it for now as it is not tearing and is still strong enough for the job it needs to do. I will polish up a piece and see how noticeable it is.


Heating it up and letting cool down slowly is called annealing.
It makes it soft and easier to bend. If you do this, it wont flatten or wrinkle up.

And in reverse, heating it up and cooling it very fast in cold water will harden it up. or temper it.


----------



## DanielCoffey

I have just tried a little silicone on the shoe on a single bend and it makes no difference to the flattening. It is in no danger of collapsing the tube or tearing but there are two pronounced shoulders on the outer sides of the bend.

I have a suspicion that any attempt to come home with a blowtorch will be met by some wife aggro so I will have to work up to that.


----------



## PepeLapiu

I'm not talking about a flame thrower here.
Just a little torch like this:

http://m.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-propane-torch-kit-0587542p.html

You can find one at any hardware store.
I use it to light up my bbq grill.

Or you could probably just heat up your tubing by leaving it on your stove top at max setting for a few minutes.
Do it when the boss wife is away.


----------



## sushisky

where can you buy camozzi fittings from?


----------



## DanielCoffey

Well... I tried annealing and didn't get very good results I am afraid. Lots of inside bend ripples and still some flattening.

I picked up a butane/propane torch head and canister and had a go at heating three short test lengths. I got that fascinating colour change and then black surface oxidisation. I suspect I stopped a little short of full annealing but there was certainly a little red glow. On cooling and a little cleaning, one piece was happy to bend by hand so it was definitely softened. In the bender, the latch made quite a mark in the metal, the outside still flattened (albeit less than the hard tube) but I got very bad ripples on the inside of the bend - much worse than with the hard tube. I got ripples on five out of six bends.

Although the tube did clean up (on the outside) with the emery paper I would be concerned about the state of the inside.

Given the results and extra work involved (not to mention the fact that I have £40 of this hard tube in my spare room) I will stick with the unannealed hard tube since it gives very consistent results. There should be no significant restriction in the flow, no internal cleaning required and the flattening can be made into a feature with enough polishing because it is even throughout the bend.

B-neg - I know you have recommended that chrome tubing for me to try but at the cost they demand for it, it is simply too expensive for a first project. Thanks for the source though.

This build will be bare polished copper. Once I have confidence in planning tube routing and bends, who knows. Maybe chrome next time.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ripples mean the pipe is slipping in the former. What bend radius are the benders?


----------



## DanielCoffey

The 410M is a 24mm radius. If it is slipping, it must be by a tiny amount because the ding the clamp made on the top of the annealed section of tube was highly noticeable and matched the clamp position perfectly. I didn't tape these test pieces to mark the start of the bend however.

I have asked the Ridgid Tools rep about the condition of the bender (that over-machined metal that I showed you in the email) but have not had a reply yet.


----------



## PepeLapiu

My M410 has a bend radius of 25 mm.
And yes, I checked and double checked several times.
Mind you different tubing thickness and hardneds might be responsible for some variations .....maybe?


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> Well... I tried annealing and didn't get very good results I am afraid. Lots of inside bend ripples and still some flattening.
> 
> I picked up a butane/propane torch head and canister and had a go at heating three short test lengths. I got that fascinating colour change and then black surface oxidisation. I suspect I stopped a little short of full annealing but there was certainly a little red glow. On cooling and a little cleaning, one piece was happy to bend by hand so it was definitely softened. In the bender, the latch made quite a mark in the metal, the outside still flattened (albeit less than the hard tube) but I got very bad ripples on the inside of the bend - much worse than with the hard tube. I got ripples on five out of six bends.
> 
> Although the tube did clean up (on the outside) with the emery paper I would be concerned about the state of the inside.
> 
> Given the results and extra work involved (not to mention the fact that I have £40 of this hard tube in my spare room) I will stick with the unannealed hard tube since it gives very consistent results. There should be no significant restriction in the flow, no internal cleaning required and the flattening can be made into a feature with enough polishing because it is even throughout the bend.
> 
> B-neg - I know you have recommended that chrome tubing for me to try but at the cost they demand for it, it is simply too expensive for a first project. Thanks for the source though.
> 
> This build will be bare polished copper. Once I have confidence in planning tube routing and bends, who knows. Maybe chrome next time.


You could always get your pipes chromed, or nickeled, or whatever, at a plating shop after you are done bending them.
Mind you, I like the look of polished copper.


----------



## oc_geek

Here are some pics of my tubes bending, work in progress....what do you think ?
(had not time so far to start a proper build log, will do at some point)


----------



## PepeLapiu

I love how you covered those brackets with tubing.
Giving me some ideas for my build!

Tho, I don't know why you are using so many elbows when you can just bend the tubing instead.


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love how you covered those brackets with tubing.
> Giving me some ideas for my build!
> 
> Tho, I don't know why you are using so many elbows when you can just bend the tubing instead.


When bend radius (38mm on 12OD) didn't make it i had to


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek*
> 
> When bend radius (38mm on 12OD) didn't make it i had to


Yep, had that same issue myself on my SM5 build.

It's looking fantastic, BTW. I love that pump housing.


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek*
> 
> Here are some pics of my tubes bending, work in progress....what do you think ?
> (had not time so far to start a proper build log, will do at some point)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks too good. I may have just found the inspiration to start my mod up again thanks to you.


----------



## oc_geek

Thanks all for the nice feedbacks.

I get i'm on the right path








Still waiting the GPU & block to finish the loop.

I'm crossing all my fingers for no leaks when i wet "the thing"









I'll perhaps do it in steps as the fill ports i put to go from front to back of the TH10 allow for running the loop one section at a time.

I'll have to start the build log....i see...


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek*
> 
> Here are some pics of my tubes bending, work in progress....what do you think ?
> (had not time so far to start a proper build log, will do at some point)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great job! That copper theme really took the eyes on it. BTW, may I ask what fittings are you using? (Found it a couple pages ago, sorry







)


----------



## oc_geek

I changed the top left tube (different routing) and added GPU with bridge

This one tube below was the most difficult to do (two bends on two different planes)



Connected GPU bridge to the top RAD egress port..



So the most of the front loop looks like this now


----------



## DanielCoffey

This is a lovely job and very inspiring. Hypnotic too... your mind just follows the curves.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I like that,very tidy job indeed.


----------



## Hefner

Yep that looks amazing. Almost makes me wanna tear my loop down and redo it with copper tubing


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Yep that looks amazing. Almost makes me wanna tear my loop down and redo it with copper tubing


Uh no, I already have dibs on doing copper in a compact splash, don't steal my thunder


----------



## Rudster816

Has anyone here used the fittings that Primochill make for acrylic tubing on copper? I assume it would work so long as the dimensions of the copper are the same as what the fitting was designed for.

FrozenCPU made a video where they leak tested some copper tubing combined with the Primochill fittings here:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23617/ex-tub-3042/Soft_Copper_Tubing_38_ID_x_12_OD_-_1_Foot.html

The fittings themselves:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_1262_1253

Assuming they work without problems, they seem like they would be the ideal way to go for Americans who can't get a hold of 10mm\12mm copper tubing for a reasonable price.


----------



## dna-systems

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rudster816*
> 
> Has anyone here used the fittings that Primochill make for acrylic tubing on copper? I assume it would work so long as the dimensions of the copper are the same as what the fitting was designed for.
> 
> FrozenCPU made a video where they leak tested some copper tubing combined with the Primochill fittings here:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23617/ex-tub-3042/Soft_Copper_Tubing_38_ID_x_12_OD_-_1_Foot.html
> 
> The fittings themselves:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_1262_1253
> 
> Assuming they work without problems, they seem like they would be the ideal way to go for Americans who can't get a hold of 10mm\12mm copper tubing for a reasonable price.





I love frozenCPU, but that price on copper is ridiculously expensive. Try NY Brew Supply. I got a 25' coil of 1/2" O.D. for $36. Great communication and fast shipping. I'm in Japan and they got mine to me in about 7 days.
http://www.nybrewsupply.com/plumbing-fittings-tubing/tubing/copper-tubing.html

EDIT-I'm using Primochill (the Revolver version) Compression and have had no leaks.


----------



## Rudster816

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dna-systems*
> 
> I love frozenCPU, but that price on copper is ridiculously expensive. Try NY Brew Supply. I got a 25' coil of 1/2" O.D. for $36. Great communication and fast shipping. I'm in Japan and they got mine to me in about 7 days.
> http://www.nybrewsupply.com/plumbing-fittings-tubing/tubing/copper-tubing.html
> 
> EDIT-I'm using Primochill (the Revolver version) Compression and have had no leaks.


I wasn't even considering buying the copper tubing from Frozen, way too expensive. I can buy coils locally for a reasonable price (~$20 for 10ft).

How did you go about straightening the coils? I was considering buying a small pipe that has the same ID as the OD of my pipe and trying to shove the coiled copper tube through it to get it perfectly straight. I figure if it doesn't fit I could throw the coils in the freezer and\or heat up the pipe in order to get enough wiggle room to shove the tubing through.


----------



## dna-systems

I straightened the tube by hand. It was very easy to do given that it is annealed already.


----------



## DanielCoffey

There are videos of one way to straighten annealed coil. They involve cutting more off the coil than you need, clamping one end in a vice, grabbing the other end in pliers, pulling taut and whacking the pliers with a hammer away from the vice to "stretch" the tube. Do it just enough to get rid of the bends but not so much that you lose all the annealing. Then cut off the two mashed ends.


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rudster816*
> 
> How did you go about straightening the coils? I was considering buying a small pipe that has the same ID as the OD of my pipe and trying to shove the coiled copper tube through it to get it perfectly straight. I figure if it doesn't fit I could throw the coils in the freezer and\or heat up the pipe in order to get enough wiggle room to shove the tubing through.


Method 1:






Method 2






I bought one of the tools in the second video. The tool works very well, but the max size they supported when I ordered mine was 10mm OD.

If you have a workbench and a vice available, method 1 is the most economical.


----------



## oc_geek

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I changed on tube routing (top left one) and added GPU with bridge (will be 2x in end build)
This one tube below was the most difficult to do (two bends on two different planes)



Connected GPU bridge to the top RAD egress port..



So the most of the front loop looks like this now














I did some pipes cleaning, now they look very nice and shiny (will need to wear gloves from now on though...)









Before :



After:


----------



## PepeLapiu

Have you considered using a lacker to protect the shiny finish?


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Have you considered using a lacker to protect the shiny finish?


The product that i used (specific for copper) is supposed to also protect them for "long" time.. but never say never.

Have anything to recommended ? I just wish to avoid any stuff that once the tube is pushed into the fittings may go into the o-rings and cause potentially issues

thanks


----------



## DanielCoffey

You could do a test fit to work out how far the tube goes into the push fittings and then tape off the ends of each tube prior to spraying with lacquer.


----------



## adamcobabe

How did you be bevel the edges of the pipes, @oc_geek?


----------



## DanielCoffey

With a pipe reamer... they usually have an inner reamer but plenty of the better ones have an outer reamer too.

The inner reamer removes the burr from the pipe cutter and the outer reamer smoothes the outside too if wanted.


----------



## oc_geek

S
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamcobabe*
> 
> How did you be bevel the edges of the pipes, @oc_geek?


See that little cylinder (left side) in the pics i posted.
That is the reamer i used. Reamer does the inner tube part on one side and the outer tube part on the other so you end up with smooth edges (it will damage o-rings otherwise)
Also i use to wet a bit the edge of the tube before inserting in the fitting.


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> You could do a test fit to work out how far the tube goes into the push fittings and then tape off the ends of each tube prior to spraying with lacquer.


Thought about that and don't like the idea.
If anything better i'll leave them as is and dare the oxidation process to happen


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc_geek*
> 
> The product that i used (specific for copper) is supposed to also protect them for "long" time.. but never say never.
> 
> Have anything to recommended ? I just wish to avoid any stuff that once the tube is pushed into the fittings may go into the o-rings and cause potentially issues
> 
> thanks


This is what I was planning on using:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003BG53EI/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&smid=A2F8KAB7F15GZF
But I can't recommend it as I haven't tried it yet.
What copper specific product did you use?

My plan is to sand it down to 2000 grit and finish off a polish job with Brasso, or lemon juice, and cover it up with what I linked above.


----------



## oc_geek

The one i used is this one



and to clean the surface i used some close to this one



The result is pretty good (looks really shiny). Not sure how long the advertised "long" protection would be...

On the spraying it i'm still reluctant...undecided have to say


----------



## staccker

The aesthetic of copper or chrome looking pipes in a computer case has really caught my eye since I started planning my loop. I have a few questions about the pipes:

Are the chrome looking colored pipes actually nickel or chrome? or are they copper pipes painted? Could both options be used?

Also I originally had these fittings for my loop using clear tubing but I was wondering if they would still work with the correct ID and OD pipes? Or would there be a recommended better compression fitting preferably in nickel color.


----------



## DanielCoffey

Firstly you will not easily be able to reuse those fittings. Most copper tube we will be using here is either 10mm OD or 12mm OD and those compression fittings are for 16mm OD with thick walls. You will need the fittings that match the tube you pick and you will find that by reading this thread.

The large majority of tube will be plain copper which you can polish yourself and then lacquer. While there are a few chrome-plated tubes that work, you will find the plating may have a tendency to craze when bent so if you want the chrome or nickel look you will have to send them off to be plated after bending. As for painting, yes you can do that too and folks have discussed brands of paint here in the thread.


----------



## Elmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staccker*
> 
> The aesthetic of copper or chrome looking pipes in a computer case has really caught my eye since I started planning my loop. I have a few questions about the pipes:
> 
> Are the chrome looking colored pipes actually nickel or chrome? or are they copper pipes painted? Could both options be used?
> 
> Also I originally had these fittings for my loop using clear tubing but I was wondering if they would still work with the correct ID and OD pipes? Or would there be a recommended better compression fitting preferably in nickel color.




Chrome plated.... You have to chrome plate them after you bend them. I had mine done at Art Brass of Seattle. Cost 175.00 to get them chromed. I use the 12mm bitspower fittings. Like these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_1285&products_id=27584


----------



## InCoGnIt0

Chrome plated.... You have to chrome plate them after you bend them. I had mine done at Art Brass of Seattle. Cost 175.00 to get them chromed. I use the 12mm bitspower fittings. Like these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_1285&products_id=27584[/quote]

Holy crap dude, that is one sweet build, do you have a build log??


----------



## Elmy

http://www.pdxlan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16859

quote name="InCoGnIt0" url="/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101/1640#post_22196350"]

Chrome plated.... You have to chrome plate them after you bend them. I had mine done at Art Brass of Seattle. Cost 175.00 to get them chromed. I use the 12mm bitspower fittings. Like these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_1285&products_id=27584[/quote]

Holy crap dude, that is one sweet build, do you have a build log??[/quote]

They charge money for sponsorship build log here.... I have it up @ PDXLAN.net and Hardocp under mod section


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staccker*
> 
> The aesthetic of copper or chrome looking pipes in a computer case has really caught my eye since I started planning my loop. I have a few questions about the pipes:
> 
> Are the chrome looking colored pipes actually nickel or chrome? or are they copper pipes painted? Could both options be used?
> 
> Also I originally had these fittings for my loop using clear tubing but I was wondering if they would still work with the correct ID and OD pipes? Or would there be a recommended better compression fitting preferably in nickel color.


Mine are chrome plated,I recommend getting them chromed after bending tho. I bent my prechromed tube and got away with minimal crazing,YMMV greatly tho.

Any plating will work,silver,gold,iridium.....whatever you like,as long as the copper doesnt react with it. Speak to a plater for more info on that.


----------



## staccker

@DanielCoffey@Elmy@B NEGATIVE Thanks for your replies, +rep, they were indeed informative. Both of the rigs looks really nice.


----------



## MedRed

I'm looking for a 12mm pipe bender. Where is the best place to get one?


----------



## DanielCoffey

It depends on what country you live in.

You will probably want the Ridgid Tools 412M.


----------



## Michalius

Posted in the WC'ing club, but re-bent a number of pipes for my build:





Only one I'm not 100% happy with is STILL the Res->GPU run. It needed to be like 2 mm taller or 4mm shorter. Alas.


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Only one I'm not 100% happy with is STILL the Res->GPU run. It needed to be like 2 mm taller or 4mm shorter. Alas.


I can empathize. I remade a few pipes in my rig several times until I got them just right. Keep plugging away.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thats the difference between a good builder and a great one. No one should be a harsher critic of your work than yourself. Go over and over,pick up the details and fix up.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thats the difference between a good builder and a great one. No one should be a harsher critic of your work than yourself. Go over and over,pick up the details and fix up.


I actually pulled it apart yesterday to do that very thing.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Hi everyone. I have a PC all rigged with 10mm piping. I really want to add a seconnd gpu for XFire sometime within 6 months or so. I have a 12mm crystal link fitting that I'm planning on using to pass the water from one gpu to the next, but I don't have any 12mm piping :-(. Can anyone spare me something as little as 3-4 inches? I really dont want to buy 10+ feet for just 3 inches.

I'm in the USA


----------



## DanielCoffey

It would help folks if you stated which country it was to go to.

I have some 10mmOD 0.6mm wall copper here in the UK but I will be ordering some 12mmOD 1mm wall in about a week so if you have no luck in about a week, PM me and I can certainly help.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> It would help folks if you stated which country it was to go to.
> 
> I have some 10mmOD 0.6mm wall copper here in the UK but I will be ordering some 12mmOD 1mm wall in about a week so if you have no luck in about a week, PM me and I can certainly help.


Thanks. I updated my post. I'm in the USA actually.


----------



## SeeThruHead

So I just ordered Copper Tube 101 from OnlineMetals.com

And the aquatuning push fit fittings.

I just blindly followed to op without reading much further into the thread but isn't 3/8inch not equal to 10mm?


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> So I just ordered Copper Tube 101 from OnlineMetals.com
> 
> And the aquatuning push fit fittings.
> 
> I just blindly followed to op without reading much further into the thread but isn't 3/8inch not equal to 10mm?


Yeah, it's been discussed to death, it'll leak.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Great that's a hundred bucks wasted. @B Negative Maybe you could change the op to only include pipe that works for people like me who decided not to read the whole thread.


----------



## DanielCoffey

If it hasn't shipped yet, see if you can cancel the order.


----------



## RnRollie

3/8 " = 9.52 mm
10mm = 10mm (+/- 0.02mm)

It becomes worse when you try to match imperial & metric tube, hose & fittings together...









It would be nice if the UK and its (former) colonies FINALLY gave up on the imperial standard and switched to metric/decimal for everything, like the rest of the civilised world















Alas, in the heart & mind of every Englishman, the empire still exists







As for isolationist America... yeah well, that's a political discussion....
But at least all SCIENTIST worldwide have agreed to use ONE standard (dont want anymore Marslanders to crash because of a confusion between feet & meters) , now its up to commerce & the common citizen to follow suit.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

What are you talking about? We have been metric for many years in the UK.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> What are you talking about? We have been metric for many years in the UK.











yeah, for select items... you're still miles away from Directive 80/181/EEC
now its time to start measuring distances in (kilo)meters iso miles or feet or inches
and use L/100 Km iso MPG
and while you're at it... start driving at the right side of the road.... suggest by 1st of September, and if it all works out, by the 1st of November the big lorries too









Seriously, while BSPT is an "international standard", i'ld prefer you'ld switch to EU DN , just to make my life easier








Although, if we really have to agree on a standard, i'ld like that everyone would use BSPT and abolish NPT
Cuz, really, whats wrong with the Americans? Why is an US Gallon different from an Imperial Gallon (3.78 L vs 4.54 L), why is an US Acre different from the rest of the world? (and don't get me started on furlongs) and why cant they pronounce aluminium ?
















Ok, sorry for hijack & making a bit of harmless fun of islanders


----------



## iBored

Hi, I'm pretty sure this has been asked before, but can we use stainless steel pipes in the loop?
It'll go with an aquacomputer delrin/copper base cpu block and 780 nickel plated block.

Or would you recommend I nickle plate the copper pipes?


----------



## DanielCoffey

I understand that stainless is more difficult to bend. If you can afford to have the copper sent to a plater after bending it, that would be the way to go in my opinion.


----------



## RnRollie

As above, stainless can be a bit more difficult to bend, but in the small dimension used (max 1/2") it should NOT be that much harder as copper pipe.

Not sure if it is good idea to mix stainless & copper thou, unless everything is nickel plated

Of course... there is always the braided hose option


----------



## Hefner

Annealing the pipes might help as well.


----------



## DanielCoffey

But then you will have to watch oxidation on the inside.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> But then you will have to watch oxidation on the inside.


So you would suggest not sealing up the inside of the pipe and have the chrome/nickel plating on the inside of the pipe as well?

Also, this plating company asked me which method of plating, and whether I wanted chrome or hard chrome plating. What are the differences?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> As above, stainless can be a bit more difficult to bend, but in the small dimension used (max 1/2") it should NOT be that much harder as copper pipe.
> 
> Not sure if it is good idea to mix stainless & copper thou, unless everything is nickel plated
> 
> Of course... there is always the braided hose option


Stainless is used extensively in blocks already,jet plates are normally SS...Watercool and Aquacomputer use it for GPU covers.
Its perfectly fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> But then you will have to watch oxidation on the inside.


Annealing and oxidisation do not have relavance to each other.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> But then you will have to watch oxidation on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> So you would suggest not sealing up the inside of the pipe and have the chrome/nickel plating on the inside of the pipe as well?
> 
> Also, this plating company asked me which method of plating, and whether I wanted chrome or hard chrome plating. What are the differences?
Click to expand...

Plating very rarely takes on the inside due to the plating material not getting inside. Remember if the bath isn't being forced thru the pipe,the plate can't get to it.

Chrome is a strike layer for cosmetic use,hard chrome is a thicker,protective coating.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Hey guys. I'm looking to add a second gpu to crossfire in my setup. This is what it looks like currently:



So the new GPU will go under the current one. My only concern is how will I connect the two GPUs with a pipe by modifying the least amount of pipes. The pipe going from GPU to CPU was a pain to work with and I'd prefer not to mess with it. What I don't want to do is have a diaganol pipe going from one gpu to the other. So I was wondering of there is a bridge o can use from ek that will connect the two GPUs in a cross pattern?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Go parallel and just trim the bottom pipe.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

How would I do that and what would I need? Will each GPU get a nice inflow/outflow?


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Oh, found this from koolance:

http://koolance.com/image/content_pages/product_help/video_block_connecting/cnt-vd_parallel.gif

My only concern is that does the top GPU have good inflow/outflow. It looks like the water will just go in, not have any flow pattern to it, and then get out.

Also,will an EK sli/CD bridge work?


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> How would I do that and what would I need? Will each GPU get a nice inflow/outflow?


I ran parallel tubes between my two graphics cards. This is what I did:


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Oh, found this from koolance:
> 
> http://koolance.com/image/content_pages/product_help/video_block_connecting/cnt-vd_parallel.gif
> 
> My only concern is that does the top GPU have good inflow/outflow. It looks like the water will just go in, not have any flow pattern to it, and then get out.
> 
> Also,will an EK sli/CD bridge work?


As long as the input and output tubes are on opposite sides, as depicted in the drawing, the water is still forced to make a circuit through the water blocks before exiting.

Those bridges from EK et al do the exact same thing,


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Hmmm...I found the correct bridge compatible with the 290s. Now I'm wondering if I should do copper pipes or a bridge :-(


----------



## OP20

Digging through a chunk of this thread and i still cant find a solid answer. I know this has prlly been asked 10+ times but wheres the best place to find soft 12mm copper pipe that don't come in a coil in the US? Also the bender for said pipe. I would rather not use the primochill fittings. Compared to the bitspower 12mm ones they are almost double the size and look bulky.

Thanks for any help you guys can provide


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OP20*
> 
> wheres the best place to find soft 12mm copper pipe that don't come in a coil in the US?
> 
> Also the bender for said pipe.


McMaster-Carr is a bit expensive, but this is where I purchased my 10mm OD copper tubing: 12mm OD copper tubing

For a tube bender, the RIDGID 600 Series Heavy-Duty Instrument Benders is a good choice. It's not a cheap bender (I have a similar bender from Swagelok) but it works great if you have any bends that go beyond 90 degrees. The RIDGID 400 series is more economical.


----------



## RnRollie

or you can grab the yellow pages and shoot a gaggle of plumbers a mail / phonecall
tell them you are working on a school/art/PC project and ask them for pointers and if they can assist in sourcing (surplus) material

most will not reply
one of them will call the police asking if a lunatic has escaped recently
one of them will take an interest, and might be willing to help you with sourcing, soldering, bending, etc for beer money...
one of them will send you an $800,- invoice for emergency night time intervention

You could consider taking that last one hostage and steal all his stuff, but the feds frown upon that









But the one that takes an interest..... that will be one of the best beer money investments you've ever made


----------



## DanielCoffey

And if you use right-angle and 45-deg push fittings (double-push elbows), you won't need the bender at all. Consider how some of the acrylic straight tube builds are put together and see if you like the style (but in copper of course).

If you decide to go for the straight tube approach, you can safely use hard tube (R290) instead of semi-hard (R250).


----------



## OP20

Thankyou very much for the information







. I feel like the OP should be edited with this.

It mentions on that 12mm od page you linked that the strait pipes are not bendable? Is that information false or do you have to purchase the coil and straiten it? I would prefer to just bend already strait pipe.

Once again,
Thanks for any information you can provide


----------



## Escovado

I used the 10mm coiled tubing in my build. You can bend the straight tubing with a tube bender tool--it's just not as easy as the coiled tubing. When you buy the tubing, get extra footage for practicing.


----------



## DanielCoffey

Straight tube is bendable... using the correct tool. It is just too stiff to bend by hand.

While the soft coil can be bent by hand or with a spring, you will never get as tidy a job as when using a bender.


----------



## OP20

Thanks for being so responsive guys. Looking forward to bending a few pipes and then having it nickel plated!!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quick couple of questions, I did start reading some of the 160+ pages but lost concentration etc.

1. Will the Koolance 10mm (3/8") fittings work on hard drawn 3/8" refrigeration copper ? (it is actually 3/8OD and just a fraction above 1/4ID )

2. Running copper pipes means no silver or anti bacterial things are needed ?

3. The Koolance fittings are a single use throw away item ? Are they worth the extra money ?

4. Is it easier to work with hard drawn or annealed to get it fitted ?

5. Is there any way to preserve the shine after polishing ?


----------



## RnRollie

i'ld stay away from 1/4 ID if i were you... way too restrictive especially since it means using 1/4 ID fittings also


----------



## DanielCoffey

1. Mixing 10mm tube with 3/8" fittings will cause leaks as they are not the same.

2. You will still need anti-fungal so a good branded pre-mix will be sufficient.

3.I have not used Koolance so cannot comment on value.

4. 10mm soft coil (annealed) will need pre-straightening before first use but can be cheaply (and roughly) bent with a spring bender. A proper bender such as a Ridgid 410M will give better results. If your case will be closed and not visible for showing off, soft coil will be cheap and effective. Hard 10mm will certainly require a quality bender but is also suitable for straight builds which would use 90-deg and 45-deg push fitting elbows. While the extra fittings will raise the build price you won't need the bender. Think of how straight acrylic builds are constructed and see if you like the appearance. Remember that tubing usually comes in annealed soft coil, semi-hard R250 and fully hard R290. For the R250 and R290 you will certainly need a bender.

5. Clear hair spray.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quick couple of questions, I did start reading some of the 160+ pages but lost concentration etc.
> 
> 1. Will the Koolance 10mm (3/8") fittings work on hard drawn 3/8" refrigeration copper ? (it is actually 3/8OD and just a fraction above 1/4ID )
> 
> 2. Running copper pipes means no silver or anti bacterial things are needed ?
> 
> 3. The Koolance fittings are a single use throw away item ? Are they worth the extra money ?
> 
> 4. Is it easier to work with hard drawn or annealed to get it fitted ?
> 
> 5. Is there any way to preserve the shine after polishing ?


10mm OD is what I used on the SR2,no problems with flow...

1. Yes,probably.

2. You will still need a biocide.

3.Only the ferrules are single use and cost pennies to replace.

4. Annealed.

5.Laqeur or wax will preserve the shine,handle the bare tube with cotton gloves to make your life easier. Fingerprint acid is a straight ***** for polished copper.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quick couple of questions, I did start reading some of the 160+ pages but lost concentration etc.
> 
> 1. Will the Koolance 10mm (3/8") fittings work on hard drawn 3/8" refrigeration copper ? (it is actually 3/8OD and just a fraction above 1/4ID )
> 
> 2. Running copper pipes means no silver or anti bacterial things are needed ?
> 
> 3. The Koolance fittings are a single use throw away item ? Are they worth the extra money ?
> 
> 4. Is it easier to work with hard drawn or annealed to get it fitted ?
> 
> 5. Is there any way to preserve the shine after polishing ?


1- that 3/8 OD will not work as 3/8 is just a reference in the US it is actually 1/2" OD.

3- like B said, just the ferrule is one time use... but the ferrules that come with the fittings are for 10mm NOT 3/8, if you plan on using "3/8" you must replace the ferrule.. go to Home depot or lowes and get the correct ferrule.

4- depends on your tools and experience.

here's a couple of pictures to show you..


----------



## kgtuning

1/2"OD hard pipe bent with Ridgid benders.. Do you guys think that is a decent bend?


----------



## Escovado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> 1/2"OD hard pipe bent with Ridgid benders.. Do you guys think that is a decent bend?


Looks like a good bend to me.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> 1/2"OD hard pipe bent with Ridgid benders.. Do you guys think that is a decent bend?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


For me that is a very nice bend







Look at that, perfect semi-circumference


----------



## Wolfsbora

Starting to wonder if I should go copper...


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Escovado*
> 
> Looks like a good bend to me.


Thanks! I finally found a local place that has this copper pipe in stock for 1.75$ USD a foot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> For me that is a very nice bend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at that, perfect semi-circumference


Thanks! That bend is thanks to my Ridged pipe benders










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Starting to wonder if I should go copper...


Hard copper piping is such an excellent choice.

More playing..


----------



## ginger_nuts

So, before I seriously consider pulling the plug on nearly $300AUD of fittings









How much wastage, for a first timer, should I factor in ? I will be having a CPU, MOSFET, NB block, GPU, Bay ras/pump, then a rad on the top, rear, bottom and front all in a Bitfenix Shinobi XL.


----------



## Spongeworthy

300? Holy ****. I paid like $30 for my fittings.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I am open to suggestions, but from Koolance


----------



## kgtuning

Those fittings are nice! I have the CU13's


----------



## ginger_nuts

They do look nice









How tight do you need to do the outer ring ? Is hand tight enough ? Or is using a spanner needed ?

Do you happen to know if know if the brass ferrules can be changed to the plastic ones ?

The only reason for going 3/8" is that I have 3-4 meters left over from my Chilled water bench build I am currently undertaking.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> They do look nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How tight do you need to do the outer ring ? Is hand tight enough ? Or is using a spanner needed ?
> 
> Do you happen to know if know if the brass ferrules can be changed to the plastic ones ?
> 
> The only reason for going 3/8" is that I have 3-4 meters left over from my Chilled water bench build I am currently undertaking.


A spanner/ wrench is mandatory for tightening the nut. Unless you have some super strong hands. Haha. The brass ferrule has to stay. And as far as how much to tighten... Normally one and a half turns past hand tight. But I'd start there and if it leaks on the testing tighten more. But please leak test.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Noted


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> They do look nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How tight do you need to do the outer ring ? Is hand tight enough ? Or is using a spanner needed ?
> 
> Do you happen to know if know if the brass ferrules can be changed to the plastic ones ?
> 
> The only reason for going 3/8" is that I have 3-4 meters left over from my Chilled water bench build I am currently undertaking.


The lock nut needs to be wrenched down hard to crush the ferrule,you can assist this with a smear of plumbers mait.

As for the 3/8 to 10mm question...if the ferrule goes over the tube then it will seal,its only external compressions involving o rings which need to be bang on correct.

The ferrules cannot be changed to plastics.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

I just post here then.

What I usually have used for my copper tubing is nickel-plated which I can buy for cheap at home-depot (or what you guys call it), they have 2 meters of 12 mm for a very good price and I do not need to order it online. I have only used those and they are fabricated as annealed which is the best to bend when it comes to copper tubing. They also sell half-hard and one more type (I do not remember what it is called). They have 10, 12 and 15 mm both copper tubing and nickel-plated copper tubing. I used the nickel-plated which are not to far away from chrome-finish and it matches my silver shining bitspower/EK/Swiftech/Koolance fittings pretty well.

I used a lot of nickel-plated copper tubing for my last build, I upload a few pictures from my last modding-project, this project took me some time.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://s370.photobucket.com/user/MerZioos/media/d8c5dc02-3ae5-4153-ac45-8f39ed0e7088.jpg.html
http://s370.photobucket.com/user/MerZioos/media/IMG_0328.jpg.html
http://s370.photobucket.com/user/MerZioos/media/IMG_0374.jpg.html
http://s370.photobucket.com/user/MerZioos/media/IMG_0375.jpg.html
http://s370.photobucket.com/user/MerZioos/media/IMG_0382.jpg.html
http://s370.photobucket.com/user/MerZioos/media/IMG_0383.jpg.html
http://s370.photobucket.com/user/MerZioos/media/IMG_0388.jpg.html
http://s370.photobucket.com/user/MerZioos/media/IMG_0389.jpg.html
http://s370.photobucket.com/user/MerZioos/media/IMG_0410.jpg.html
http://s370.photobucket.com/user/MerZioos/media/IMG_0411.jpg.html
http://s370.photobucket.com/user/MerZioos/media/IMG_0413.jpg.html
http://s370.photobucket.com/user/MerZioos/media/IMG_0414.jpg.html
http://s370.photobucket.com/user/MerZioos/media/IMG_0427.jpg.html

This project was finished in April/May this year.


----------



## kgtuning

I have been practicing bending hard copper tubing, I've gone through 10 feet without issue. So I bought another 20 feet and almost every bend breaks at less then 15 degrees.

I use 1/2"OD ACR type L with a Ridgid 408 1/2" bender
Here's the bender


anyone else experience this?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sounds like you got a different grade of copper.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sounds like you got a different grade of copper.


That's what I thought but the copper tube in question is marked in blue CERRO 1/2"---ACR TYPE L--- . I wish I had a micrometer. but it was certainly acting like type M.

Edit.. I tried bending a piece of copper from a different a few weeks back and it did not break and neither did the stainless steel tubing, so I think the 20 feet I bought recently was a bad run..


----------



## Gobigorgohome

What do you guys use to clean the copper tubing after cuts/grinding the ends with sandpaper? Just tap water or do you use something else? I just thought about it and I think I forgot to clean the tubing before I seated it into my loop, maybe that is where all that green stuff came from (that ruined my XSPC Dual D5 reservoir) ... Well, I guess I have to clean it this time around then.

What type of lube or oil do you guys use when you are doing the bending? And when you are going to insert the hard tubing into the fittings? Also which kind of sandpaper grit are you using when you are filing down the "edges"? I have used sunflower oil and 120 grit sandpaper ... is that okay?


----------



## iBored

Quick question, why are stainless steel pipes rarely used compared to copper or nickle-plated copper?
Isn't the chrome-ish look the same?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Quick question, why are stainless steel pipes rarely used compared to copper or nickle-plated copper?
> Isn't the chrome-ish look the same?


Stainless requires much more effort to bend and cannot be tweaked to get the lines right.


----------



## kgtuning

Also I think the cost of stainless is significantly higher then copper.


----------



## xH2L

Alright, I think I know exactly what fittings I'm going to have to wind up buying, but I just want to make sure before I go off and buy said fittings. They're just too expensive to make the mistake of buying the wrong ones...

If I am using 3/8" OD SS pipe, which fittings can I use?

Thanks!


----------



## ginger_nuts

I know it was just a week ago I was asking about the Koolance fittings,

But has anyone used the Primochill Revolver Compression Fittings on 1/2" copper ?

This would save me some serious money.


----------



## dna-systems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I know it was just a week ago I was asking about the Koolance fittings,
> 
> But has anyone used the Primochill Revolver Compression Fittings on 1/2" copper ?
> 
> This would save me some serious money.


I've been using the Primochill Revolver compression on 1/2" OD copper with no issues thus far. I've had them in place for about 4-5 months now with a couple of cpu re-seats in between.


----------



## ginger_nuts

That is one nice looking build.

Cheers for your help


----------



## dna-systems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> That is one nice looking build.
> 
> Cheers for your help


Thank you and you're welcome!!!


----------



## bene123

Hi guys I'm having trouble getting the right pipes in Asia.

I have sourced for half hard that is 1/2 inch od with nom wall thickness is 0.049 inch Type K . The nominal tube size is 3/8 inch .
Will it work with primochill ghost and revolver fittings?

Cos If i understood properly it should mean the 1/2 inch OD tube has ID of 0.404 inch while the ID for ghost is 3/8 inch or 0.375 inch ?


----------



## outlaw8505

Please delete. Posted in incorrect thread.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

@outlaw8505
This thread is mainly for bending hard pipe like copper.
There is a similar thread for acrylic here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/
You'll be more likely to get better responses there.


----------



## outlaw8505

Sorry about that and thanks for the redirect.


----------



## DanielCoffey

I have a quick question about push-fit connectors and 12mm copper before I begin assembly.

I am using the Landefeld.de RIB011213 and I wondered if I needed any seal inside the fitting or am I just good to connect as they are?

Aha, I can see the internal o-ring on the straight fitting.


----------



## wonderwall

Zotac Z77 with pipe 10 OD (10mm)


----------



## ccRicers

I'm considering going with metal tubing with my next build (would be going straight from soft tubing to metal) and I am going to get some copper tubing online.

If I get the coiled version I know it will likely be softer. Do you need some metal spring to fit inside of it to avoid kinking? Or can even silicone insert do the job?

Also, instead of plating I am choosing to paint it as it will be cheaper. I already have this can of Rustoleum Bright Coat that I barely used for another project. Would that work on copper?


----------



## ginger_nuts

The soft (annealed) copper is easier to bend but harder to get 100% straight.

Generally external bending springs are used or hand pipe benders. I wouldn't think silicone insert would work, it is much softer then copper.


----------



## bond32

You guys recommend the Koolance fittings? Looking to finally embark on my project here... They seem so expensive

http://koolance.com/nozzle-single-for-od-13mm-1-2in-soft-copper-pipe

Also a one time use I believe, can that brass ferrel be replaced with a nylon one?


----------



## ginger_nuts

You could try a small Australian manufacturer
http://www.rocketscience.mx


----------



## ccRicers

Sorry if it's a repost but here's another bending guide video:


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Any idea of what type of tubing The Digital Storm Aventum uses and where to buy it? I see some stuff copper tubing on McMaster Carr that is that's silver but nothing gives off the shiny luster of that plated copper tubing. Is the plating done in house after the cutting or is there tubing that you could buy that's already nickel plated that you can just cut and bend?





I would love to convert my 12mm OD acrylic bitspower enhanced multilink build over to a 12mm copper nickel plated tubing like this.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Here's my options for 12mm OD tubing:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-tubing/=u3adkp

Is the Metric Copper Tubing from the listing silver like in the picture and can something like that be polished to that luster as in the pictures above?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Sorry if it's a repost but here's another bending guide video:


That video pisses me off....Richard got all those skills from this very thread,he even mentions that he got them here in a CPU mag........

No mention in the video tho....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Here's my options for 12mm OD tubing:
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-tubing/=u3adkp
> 
> Is the Metric Copper Tubing from the listing silver like in the picture and can something like that be polished to that luster as in the pictures above?


Buy 12mm copper and get it plated afterwards. I bend prechromed copper but Its a specific brand of tube that doesnt craze like normal plating.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Here's my options for 12mm OD tubing:
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-tubing/=u3adkp
> 
> Is the Metric Copper Tubing from the listing silver like in the picture and can something like that be polished to that luster as in the pictures above?
> 
> 
> 
> Buy 12mm copper and get it plated afterwards. I bend prechromed copper but Its a specific brand of tube that doesnt craze like normal plating.
Click to expand...

care to share the brand of the copper tubing and fitting methods?


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> That video pisses me off....Richard got all those skills from this very thread,he even mentions that he got them here in a CPU mag........
> 
> No mention in the video tho....


I didn't even know DarthBeavis is a member here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Here's my options for 12mm OD tubing:
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-tubing/=u3adkp
> 
> Is the Metric Copper Tubing from the listing silver like in the picture and can something like that be polished to that luster as in the pictures above?


I doubt that they would be silver, and I'd go with what is exactly described in the text. The stock images in their catalog are misleading in many cases, as they are all grayscale in here.

Also, if you decide to go with bare copper, do get it polished before plating. Like painting, the quality of the finish depends on preparation.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I really like the look of nickel plated piping. Does anyone have any pics of polished copper piping? I might do piping instead of tubing!


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> I really like the look of nickel plated piping. Does anyone have any pics of polished copper piping? I might do piping instead of tubing!


The copper tubing used in the Digital Storm build is not nickel plated, it is chrome plated. In Norway you can buy 2 meter of chrome plated copper tubing for 30 USD locally, either raw, semi-rigid or annealed (all for the same price). It is both 12 mm and 15 mm, I have used the 12 mm in my two previous builds and it looks really good.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Thanks for the heads up, it looks amazing! How much is the usual overhead cost of going metal piping vs plastic tubing? I'm trying to plan out the funding on the PC, and would love to be able to do this. I've got about a $5500 limit (as of today, anything already purchased, such as case, rads and fans are not included in that price).


----------



## ccRicers

Has anyone tried electroplating their own copper tubes with nickel? Seems easy enough to get the materials needed for the household. But with the normal store bought things, I've only seen it demoed with small items like pennies and such.

Is the household method good for foot long lengths of tube, just that it needs more time to plate?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I'm curious, would it be cheaper to have a custom tube bending place do it, than to buy the tools to do it? I've already found out the hard way with sleeving that it's an expensive hobby to get into. Don't want to eat up too much of my money, I can sacrifice some things for the hardware that's for sure, but I need to know if that's a viable option, what's the most affordable route in this case? Or can a decent pipe-bender be found for an affordable price? It's mainly tools that seem to be the wallet hit. I don't mind the material price.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> I'm curious, would it be cheaper to have a custom tube bending place do it, than to buy the tools to do it? *I've already found out the hard way with sleeving that it's an expensive hobby to get into.* Don't want to eat up too much of my money, I can sacrifice some things for the hardware that's for sure, but I need to know if that's a viable option, what's the most affordable route in this case? Or can a decent pipe-bender be found for an affordable price? It's mainly tools that seem to be the wallet hit. I don't mind the material price.


Sleeve is peanuts compared to watercooling......

Cheap bender,10mm Aquatuning pushfits and patience is the way to go . You can grab a bender for $15-20


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I've spent like 50+10+10+20+15 on tools for sleeving alone. I'd rather spend that in wires lol. But 15-20$ for a decent pipe bender then it's definitely not out of my range.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

50 is like 5 bitspower fittings....


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up, it looks amazing! How much is the usual overhead cost of going metal piping vs plastic tubing? I'm trying to plan out the funding on the PC, and would love to be able to do this. I've got about a $5500 limit (as of today, anything already purchased, such as case, rads and fans are not included in that price).


For me copper tubing is way cheaper and it is much simpler to bend (do not have to heat it up and you can bend without angles or anything). If you are going to buy it from specific shops I guess it is a little more expensive, but it should not be too much. Computer budget? What is that?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> I'm curious, would it be cheaper to have a custom tube bending place do it, than to buy the tools to do it? I've already found out the hard way with sleeving that it's an expensive hobby to get into. Don't want to eat up too much of my money, I can sacrifice some things for the hardware that's for sure, but I need to know if that's a viable option, what's the most affordable route in this case? Or can a decent pipe-bender be found for an affordable price? It's mainly tools that seem to be the wallet hit. I don't mind the material price.


Just do it yourself, buy a cheap bending tool (usually like 30 bucks), and a tube-cutter (this is also cheap). If you do not want your wallet to cry then I would not have looked into water cooling at all.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I already have a tube-cutter so I have some of the tool expense cut off. Yeah this looks to be a lot cheaper than sleeving. (With sleeving I had to buy a decent pair of terminal crimpers, some flush cutters for wiring and sleeving, a paracord threading tool and the molex/atx pin removing tools as well as wire, terminals and paracord. I am getting like $300 into sleeving without realizing it).

I think this pipe-bending will be worth it though, I'll be spending like $40 total on tools and maybe another $30-40 on tubing.

Again, as I said, I don't mind spending money on watercooling components and equipment, but when you end up spending $150 on just tools you're going to use one time, looking for alternatives (i.e. someone to do the work for you who already has the tools) can save money.


----------



## ccRicers

I bought a used tube bender from a salvage shop, but it should still be in good working condition. It's an Imperial-Eastman 1/2" tube bender. I managed to save some money that way.


----------



## bond32

Can the primochill revolver fittings be used with some thin walled copper tubing?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Can the primochill revolver fittings be used with some thin walled copper tubing?


The Primochill revolver's are for 1/2" copper.

The thickness of the walls of the copper do not effect the fittings, since all the copper I have seen is sold with the OD dimensions.

But thinner walled coper will bend easier but be more likely to kink if you are not using a spring or mech. bender.


----------



## iBored

Hi guys, will the pipe kink or will it affect the flow much if I used a 1/2 inch (12.7mm) bender on a 12mm OD ss pipe?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Not sure. If you want to avoid kinking you can freeze water in the tube (just make sure one end is open) or you can put sand in it before you bend it, this is supposed to keep it from compressing and kinking.


----------



## MrFumbles91

Woah!
Would you mind to explain the difference of metal tubing vs acrylic/plastic to a noob?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Well, one is made of metal, generally copper or nickel/chrome plated copper. You can also use solid nickel or stainless steel tubing, I believe those are supposed to be safe to mix, though I'd probably keep it all copper (with a plating is fine). You can use annealed/soft metals or stiffer metals, both usuallyi require a pipe-bender for clean perfect angles, but the soft stuff can be crudely shaped by hand. The softer stuff is easier to kink. Metal is stronger than plastic but the downside is nice plated metal is expensive.

Rigid clear tubing is made of acrylic or other types of plastic that can be heated with a heatgun and bent, but you need the soft silicone (high temp silicone) insert for the tube so it doesn't collapse as you bend it. Depending on the plastic the tube may be very fragile or have decent impact resistance. However it's still plastic and can be cracked/broken if twisted and torqued the wrong way during install. Plastic tubing is generally cheaper than metal though.


----------



## MrFumbles91

Lol maybe i should have specified What are the advantages?.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Well like I said, metal isn't going to crack and/or shatter on you, so it's far more impact resistant. It looks better depending on how you set your build up (and what your preferences are), no plasticizers that leach (not sure if this is an issue with harder plastics). I'm sure there are others.


----------



## MrFumbles91

My own thinking would be that the metal serves as sort of a radiator of it's own accord. Would i be correct in assuming that?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I'm sure to an extent yes, as it is copper and has a decent thermal radiation output, however it won't make a noticeable difference, at least I don't think it would, I could be wrong.


----------



## MrFumbles91

I do know that it's a hell of alot more impressive than tubed WC builds
keep up the fantastic work!


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Has anyone tried electroplating their own copper tubes with nickel? Seems easy enough to get the materials needed for the household. But with the normal store bought things, I've only seen it demoed with small items like pennies and such.


I still would like to get some peoples' opinions on electroplating your own copper.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Bleh I'm struggling. I'm getting more and more confused about fittings for metal pipe as I read. What OD should I go with? Can I use monsoon's on metal? What are the best options when it comes to that? Looking for black nickel. Was looking between bitspower and EK, (just started looking at monsoon but not sure if they're useable on metal). I'm pricing things out, and I'm at a minimum of $65 USD (more likely around $100) just for the connectors. Who should I go with? I'm trying to find someone with black nickel monsoons, or bitspowers or EK, but EK seems to be a bit expensive. I'll have to compare the price of a 6pack of monsoons vs 6 individual EKs. Wish I could find more deals.

How much am I looking at paying for tubing in a computer case that's going to have eh,m estimate about 100" of tubing needed, that's adding a few extra inches per stretch for cutting and such. (I'll probably do 110" if it's not too expensive).


----------



## Rudster816

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Bleh I'm struggling. I'm getting more and more confused about fittings for metal pipe as I read. What OD should I go with? Can I use monsoon's on metal? What are the best options when it comes to that? Looking for black nickel. Was looking between bitspower and EK, (just started looking at monsoon but not sure if they're useable on metal). I'm pricing things out, and I'm at a minimum of $65 USD (more likely around $100) just for the connectors. Who should I go with? I'm trying to find someone with black nickel monsoons, or bitspowers or EK, but EK seems to be a bit expensive. I'll have to compare the price of a 6pack of monsoons vs 6 individual EKs. Wish I could find more deals.
> 
> How much am I looking at paying for tubing in a computer case that's going to have eh,m estimate about 100" of tubing needed, that's adding a few extra inches per stretch for cutting and such. (I'll probably do 110" if it's not too expensive).


I believe some types of the Monsoon fittings are designed to be glued to the piece of acrylic tube, so they probably wouldn't work with copper. I'm using a mix between these and XSPC fittings designed for acrylic pipe. I like working with the fittings from Ebay way better than the XSPC ones (they're a PITA) but you have to use 1/4" ID tubing which is fairly constrictive compared to something like 1/2" ID flexible tubing with barbs. That and the threads are pretty long so they might not work with all WCing hardware, but I haven't run into any problems with any of the stuff I own. I wish they made those fittings for 1/2" OD tubing.

So long as you get non metric fittings, the copper tubing is quite cheap at local hardware stores. It's usually ~$15 for 10' of 1\2"OD soft copper tubing, which is actually cheaper then good quality plastic tubing from WC shops. It comes in a roll so you have to straighten it out before you can use it, but I think its easier to straighten out and use that then to buy "hard" copper straight pipes and bend those.


----------



## Iox1982

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Any idea of what type of tubing The Digital Storm Aventum uses and where to buy it? I see some stuff copper tubing on McMaster Carr that is that's silver but nothing gives off the shiny luster of that plated copper tubing. Is the plating done in house after the cutting or is there tubing that you could buy that's already nickel plated that you can just cut and bend?
> 
> I would love to convert my 12mm OD acrylic bitspower enhanced multilink build over to a 12mm copper nickel plated tubing like this.


Hi there!

Great guide and thread. I am curious about the fittings used in The Digital Aventum build. Any clue?

Thanks a lot in advance!

Edit: This is what I mostly got from the whole thread that will suit my rig:

Straight copper tube 101 half-hard to be chromed after bending.
OD: 10mm (is there any significant advantages using 12mm instead?
ID: did not get a clear idea as 1mm wall thick might compromise tube integrity after bending. Perhaps 1.5mm?

Fittings: Festo/camozzi push fit 10mm G1/4

Am I in the good direction? Thanks!!!!


----------



## iBored

Has anyone used the pipe benders from Ridgid?
Specifically this model LINK
Is buying an expensive bender worth it?


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Has anyone used the pipe benders from Ridgid?
> Specifically this model LINK
> Is buying an expensive bender worth it?


Yes it is. Better to get a well machined tool that costs more where the moving parts are more precise and require less effort to use effectively. A lot of the very cheap benders may have less quality control, with misaligned dies, etc.

The 400 series from Ridgid work just as good for bending copper, and cost less. The model you linked to is made more for harder stuff like steel.

Speaking of that I just bought a used Imperial bender and I will need to return it. The die is partly broken off on the 0 degree mark







I can't make any bends without the pipe collapsing and kinking at that area.


----------



## iBored

@ccRicers I now see why!

I've gotten my new bender and reamer, and yes for SS pipes!


Join me at my build log to see what happens


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> @ccRicers I now see why!
> 
> I've gotten my new bender and reamer, and yes for SS pipes!
> 
> Join me at my build log to see what happens


Nice, I got myself a used Ridgid 398 bender for copper tubing. Hopefully this one does work as advertised. Gonna take my chances with the pre-plated stuff...


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Hey guys. I was hoping someone knowledgeable will be able to help me out. Due to how my copper tubes are setup, I learned from you guys that it would be possible to do a cross-fire configuration using a dual parallel setup for the two GPUs. I was wondering if someone can help me figure out which bridge would work. I've come across these three:

1. EK Bridges & Links (The one I'm looking at is THIS ONE)
2. EK CSQ Bridges & Links (The one I'm look at is THIS ONE)
3. EK FC Terminal (The one I'm looking at is THIS ONE)

What is the difference amongst those three and which one will be compatible with my full cover blocks. I essentially have two of these: EK-FC 290 Waterblock Rev. 2.0


----------



## ccRicers

I'm using a Ridgid 398 bender on some copper coil annealed tube for practice. As I've worked through several pieces, I have been getting better at doing a smooth motion to bend so that there are few or no kinks on the inside radius.

But all my tubes become more flat on the outer radius. Is this because the tube I picked was too soft? And the reason why rigid straight tube is recommended?


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I still would like to get some peoples' opinions on electroplating your own copper.


I've been thinking about this possibility lately also. I _could_ just get some pre-chromed pipe for cheap locally and try bending it, but my curiosity wants to have a go at plating some tubing. After my latest build was completed I've been itching for a new project.
Not a big fan of playing around with carcinogenic salts, though. But that's what protective gear is for.

It looks simple enough to get the supplies. I think the challenge will be to get an even plating on something long and narrow. Might have to experiment with placement and number/length of anodes. Electroless plating might also be an option. Supposedly this gives a more even plating. But as a mechanical engineer, chemicals scare me. Might as well tell me it's black magic.

I might do some testing on the electric variant initially and post my findings in a separate thread.


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> But all my tubes become more flat on the outer radius. *Is this because the tube I picked was too soft?* And the reason why rigid straight tube is recommended?


Bang on. It's the half-hard variant you want.


----------



## iBored

@ccRicers
How did you determine no kinks on the inside of the pipe?
If your pipe is flat or kinked, it has to be rather thick for it to only affect the OD.
In any case, if it really is just the OD that's flat, you might want to check the integrity of the former.

Also, for those who are curious on chrome plating at home, please read this first:


Spoiler: Chromic Acid



Chrome plating is done in very highly concentrated (about 32 oz./gal) chromic acid, H2CrO4 -- "hexavalent chromium" -- the stuff that made Erin Brockovich a household word. If a neighborhood child develops cancer from any cause whatsoever and his/her parents find out that you were chrome plating, God help you. Factories that use this stuff require exhaust scrubbing, they require fume suppressants that are monitored every day. The workers require medical surveillance (frequent blood tests for absorbed chromium).

If you do illegally dispose of chromic acid you will probably be caught because it leaches through the ground very readily and turns up in the aquifer, and it is not only easily detectable but it's visible at 1 part in a million, and all wells and water supplies are monitored for chrome.

Dropped a beaker on the garage floor? That could be enough to poison all of the wells around you, and you do not have "pollution insurance" in your homeowner's policy.

On top of all this, many city councils have a written or de facto ban on chrome plating.

Finally, chrome plating is notorious for hydrogen embrittlement. If you don't know how to immediately and properly bake the parts to relieve the embrittlement, you can turn hardened steel parts like springs, steering linkage, and fasteners into brittle glass.

Source



Your best bet would be to use a metallic chrome spray paint like Rustoleum's Metallic Chrome spray paint. It even comes in GOLD!


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> @ccRicers
> How did you determine no kinks on the inside of the pipe?
> If your pipe is flat or kinked, it has to be rather thick for it to only affect the OD.
> In any case, if it really is just the OD that's flat, you might want to check the integrity of the former.
> 
> Also, for those who are curious on chrome plating at home, please read this first:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Chromic Acid
> 
> 
> 
> Chrome plating is done in very highly concentrated (about 32 oz./gal) chromic acid, H2CrO4 -- "hexavalent chromium" -- the stuff that made Erin Brockovich a household word. If a neighborhood child develops cancer from any cause whatsoever and his/her parents find out that you were chrome plating, God help you. Factories that use this stuff require exhaust scrubbing, they require fume suppressants that are monitored every day. The workers require medical surveillance (frequent blood tests for absorbed chromium).
> 
> If you do illegally dispose of chromic acid you will probably be caught because it leaches through the ground very readily and turns up in the aquifer, and it is not only easily detectable but it's visible at 1 part in a million, and all wells and water supplies are monitored for chrome.
> 
> Dropped a beaker on the garage floor? That could be enough to poison all of the wells around you, and you do not have "pollution insurance" in your homeowner's policy.
> 
> On top of all this, many city councils have a written or de facto ban on chrome plating.
> 
> Finally, chrome plating is notorious for hydrogen embrittlement. If you don't know how to immediately and properly bake the parts to relieve the embrittlement, you can turn hardened steel parts like springs, steering linkage, and fasteners into brittle glass.
> 
> Source
> 
> 
> 
> Your best bet would be to use a metallic chrome spray paint like Rustoleum's Metallic Chrome spray paint. It even comes in GOLD!


Thanks for the warning. However, the topic was electrolytic nickel plating. That detail kinda got lost.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> @ccRicers
> How did you determine no kinks on the inside of the pipe?
> If your pipe is flat or kinked, it has to be rather thick for it to only affect the OD.
> In any case, if it really is just the OD that's flat, you might want to check the integrity of the former.


I tried the bender on two types of pipe. The first one was annealed copper coiled tube, which I got cheap so it was mostly for practice. I was able to bend it good enough to reduce kinks on the tube. In my first attempts it had kinks because I was jerking on the turn motion. But it was always flattened on the outside radius. The walls of a decent thickness were roughly .05 to .06 inches thick, so ID of the tube is about .4 inches. But it's soft enough to bend by hand.

The other type of pipe I tried to bend was straight, chromed supply riser pipe. It was made for low pressure, so the walls on this pipe were half as thick as the copper coil pipe. This alone made it worse to bend with. The pipe kinked and buckled a lot on the inner radius, and on the outer radius, not only did the wall get pushed flat, but it actually collapsed a little inward at parts.

The conclusion I came up with is that I need hard or half-hard copper tubing with the .06 wall thickness.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegarhed*
> 
> Thanks for the warning. However, the topic was electrolytic nickel plating. That detail kinda got lost.


Yes we're referring to plating using a nickel anode. There are several tutorials out there to do it in your own home with some easily bought products, but most of them use smaller objects as examples, such as coins or medals. We'd like to see how effectively nickel plating at home works for covering surfaces of longer tubes.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I tried the bender on two types of pipe. The first one was annealed copper coiled tube, which I got cheap so it was mostly for practice. I was able to bend it good enough to reduce kinks on the tube. In my first attempts it had kinks because I was jerking on the turn motion. But it was always flattened on the outside radius. The walls of a decent thickness were roughly .05 to .06 inches thick, so ID of the tube is about .4 inches. But it's soft enough to bend by hand.
> 
> The other type of pipe I tried to bend was straight, chromed supply riser pipe. It was made for low pressure, so the walls on this pipe were half as thick as the copper coil pipe. This alone made it worse to bend with. The pipe kinked and buckled a lot on the inner radius, and on the outer radius, not only did the wall get pushed flat, but it actually collapsed a little inward at parts.
> 
> The conclusion I came up with is that I need hard or half-hard copper tubing with the .06 wall thickness.
> Yes we're referring to plating using a nickel anode. There are several tutorials out there to do it in your own home with some easily bought products, but most of them use smaller objects as examples, such as coins or medals. We'd like to see how effectively nickel plating at home works for covering surfaces of longer tubes.


I'd go with type L copper pipe. It's very easy to find in the US and cheap. Type K will be the thickest wall at .035 for .375 OD stuff and .049 for .5 OD. I am using ACR 1/2 inch type L with a wall of .035.. however I am still a novice.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

This is what I've used:

http://www.orphanespresso.com/10mm-Soft-Copper-Tubing--sold-by-the-foot-_p_3860.html

I haven't had any problems with kinking or deformities when using my bender.


----------



## ginger_nuts

That is expensive copper, $5 / foot equals like +$15 / meter.

I bought a 3m roll for $20 of half inch. At least here in Australia we get something cheaper


----------



## kgtuning

5$ a foot? Yikes.. I pay about US 1.50$ a foot for hard tubing at FW Web.


----------



## ccRicers

I actually went and bought some 1/2" OD 304 stainless steel tube, with 0.03" wall thickness. Wish me luck


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegarhed*
> 
> I've been thinking about this possibility lately also. I _could_ just get some pre-chromed pipe for cheap locally and try bending it, but my curiosity wants to have a go at plating some tubing. After my latest build was completed I've been itching for a new project.
> Not a big fan of playing around with carcinogenic salts, though. But that's what protective gear is for.
> 
> It looks simple enough to get the supplies. I think the challenge will be to get an even plating on something long and narrow. Might have to experiment with placement and number/length of anodes. Electroless plating might also be an option. Supposedly this gives a more even plating. But as a mechanical engineer, chemicals scare me. Might as well tell me it's black magic.
> 
> I might do some testing on the electric variant initially and post my findings in a separate thread.


Well, I've done some research into the nickel solutions used in nickel plating.

It turns out that, for private individuals in the European Union or EEA-countries, nickel salts or solutions thereof are all illegal to produce, import, use or distribute. It's also a problem to dispose of it in due fashion after use. So I won't be doing any plating at home. And definitely not posting any evidence here









I will have a crack at bending the locally sourced pre-chromed copper tube. If that doesn't go well, it's stainless steel next.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegarhed*
> 
> Well, I've done some research into the nickel solutions used in nickel plating.
> 
> It turns out that, for private individuals in the European Union or EEA-countries, nickel salts or solutions thereof are all illegal to produce, import, use or distribute. It's also a problem to dispose of it in due fashion after use. So I won't be doing any plating at home. And definitely not posting any evidence here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will have a crack at bending the locally sourced pre-chromed copper tube. If that doesn't go well, it's stainless steel next.


Just go to Biltema and buy those 2 meter long chrome plated copper tubes, either 10mm or 12mm, cheap and good pipes. If you use some kind of oil when you are bending (which you always should use) you will not have any trouble getting tubing without kinking. I have been bending tubing that way in my last three builds, no problem.







Stainless steel seems unnecessary to me, I would rather do copper than stainless steel, the cost difference itself probably would not make it beneficial anyway.


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Just go to Biltema and buy those 2 meter long chrome plated copper tubes, either 10mm or 12mm, cheap and good pipes. If you use some kind of oil when you are bending (which you always should use) you will not have any trouble getting tubing without kinking. I have been bending tubing that way in my last three builds, no problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stainless steel seems unnecessary to me, I would rather do copper than stainless steel, the cost difference itself probably would not make it beneficial anyway.


Not that worried about kinking as I am about the plating cracking or flaking. But I see you've been able to bend it just fine







Got that exact tube today. Quality bender will be in house in a day or two.

I agree on the copper vs stainless. I'd rather not add another metal to my loop if I could avoid it. It's only for aesthetics I'm wanting the chrome/nickel/stainless steel look. Naked copper, although mighty sexy, isn't really what I want for this build. My sensibility would probably catch up with me before I went stainless, and stick with the acrylic.

And "unnecessary" isn't a word I've seen around here that much. I have a whole case of "unnecessaries" next to me


----------



## ccRicers

Stainless isn't really bad for galvanic corrosion with copper and nickel parts. It's just harder to bend.

I bought some pre-chromed copper tubing before, the kind used for faucet risers. I actually had a bigger problem with the tubes kinking a lot than with the chrome crazing on the bends. The walls were really thin, less than 1mm.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegarhed*
> 
> Not that worried about kinking as I am about the plating cracking or flaking. But I see you've been able to bend it just fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got that exact tube today. Quality bender will be in house in a day or two.
> 
> I agree on the copper vs stainless. I'd rather not add another metal to my loop if I could avoid it. It's only for aesthetics I'm wanting the chrome/nickel/stainless steel look. Naked copper, although mighty sexy, isn't really what I want for this build. My sensibility would probably catch up with me before I went stainless, and stick with the acrylic.
> 
> And "unnecessary" isn't a word I've seen around here that much. I have a whole case of "unnecessaries" next to me


I have not seen that the plating is cracking or flaking either, I might not have used it long enough to actually see that though. I just use the cheap 12 mm bender which you can buy on Biltema, no need to use anything expensive.







Just oil it up goooood!









Chrome plated copper tubing is spotless, looks terrific after a polish and keeps on shining.







I have never done acrylic, chrome plated all day for me.









Pretty much everything on OCN is unnecessary, but it is fun so why not?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have not seen that the plating is cracking or flaking either, I might not have used it long enough to actually see that though. I just use the cheap 12 mm bender which you can buy on Biltema, no need to use anything expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just oil it up goooood!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chrome plated copper tubing is spotless, looks terrific after a polish and keeps on shining.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have never done acrylic, chrome plated all day for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much everything on OCN is unnecessary, but it is fun so why not?


What type of oil are you using?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegarhed*
> 
> Not that worried about kinking as I am about the plating cracking or flaking. But I see you've been able to bend it just fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got that exact tube today. Quality bender will be in house in a day or two.
> 
> *I agree on the copper vs stainless. I'd rather not add another metal to my loop if I could avoid it.* It's only for aesthetics I'm wanting the chrome/nickel/stainless steel look. Naked copper, although mighty sexy, isn't really what I want for this build. My sensibility would probably catch up with me before I went stainless, and stick with the acrylic.
> 
> And "unnecessary" isn't a word I've seen around here that much. I have a whole case of "unnecessaries" next to me


There are many different types of stainless with many having anodic electropotential ratings somewhere near that of copper / nickel. Just a FYI, many if not most waterblocks also include stainless as part of the loop. EK, XSPC, Aquacomputer, etc all include stainless in many if not all of their blocks. I've never seen it be an issue.


----------



## kgtuning

Isn't the inside of the pump housing where the impeller sits on a D5/MCP655 stainless?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Isn't the inside of the pump housing where the impeller sits on a D5/MCP655 stainless?


Yes it is.

http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/SS-07R1_D5-Plastics.pdf


----------



## vegarhed

Have never heard of any problems with stainless tubes in the loop either. Just for peace of mind I wanted to avoid it, really. And the obvious cost difference. Seems it's already in there as part of the pump









Interesting to see that there's a Carbon/Aluminum ceramic in the pump bearing, aluminum being to a water loop like Kryptonite is to Superman. This little knob-looking thing I'm guessing.



Obviously not a problem seeing as the D5s are notoriously reliable. If the aluminum got eaten away at any significant rate we'd have a lot of noisy pumps.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> What type of oil are you using?


I have used rapeseed oil, because it is supposedly good to use for bending of copper tubing and it does not hurt the o-rings inside fittings. So you could actually lube up your water cooling loop with it also, that is enough for me, there might be better choices out there, I am sure normal motor oil would work, but motor oil is worse to get rid of/clean off. Easier to use rapeseed because then you only need to clean the inside of the copper tubing after cutting/sanding the edges after/before bending, with other oils you would pretty much have to clean the inside and outside.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegarhed*
> 
> Have never heard of any problems with stainless tubes in the loop either. Just for peace of mind I wanted to avoid it, really. And the obvious cost difference. Seems it's already in there as part of the pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting to see that there's a Carbon/Aluminum ceramic in the pump bearing, aluminum being to a water loop like Kryptonite is to Superman. This little knob-looking thing I'm guessing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Obviously not a problem seeing as the D5s are notoriously reliable. If the aluminum got eaten away at any significant rate we'd have a lot of noisy pumps.


The "carbon/aluminum ceramic" is not aluminum at all like you are thinking. It's an extremely strong ceramic matrix composite suitable for high temp and wear resistance applications which is not susceptible to corrosion. Think of it more with an emphasis on the 'ceramic' like you would a sink or toilet, only much stronger.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have used rapeseed oil, because it is supposedly good to use for bending of copper tubing and it does not hurt the o-rings inside fittings. So you could actually lube up your water cooling loop with it also, that is enough for me, there might be better choices out there, I am sure normal motor oil would work, but motor oil is worse to get rid of/clean off. Easier to use rapeseed because then you only need to clean the inside of the copper tubing after cutting/sanding the edges after/before bending, with other oils you would pretty much have to clean the inside and outside.


I'll have to try that. Thanks


----------



## ccRicers

Too much kinking and flattening in the copper tubes I've tried to bend. Top: Rigid, chrome-plated copper tubing. Bottom: coiled soft copper tubing. Chromed tubing has the thinner walls.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> That is expensive copper, $5 / foot equals like +$15 / meter.
> 
> I bought a 3m roll for $20 of half inch. At least here in Australia we get something cheaper


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> 5$ a foot? Yikes.. I pay about US 1.50$ a foot for hard tubing at FW Web.


Haha, yeah, they are expensive. I ended up buying about 6 feet in all from them and from another place, it cost $20 for meter (3.2 feet). They also had a 10m coil for $100, but I didn't want to spent that much money whereas here I spent about $50. But my point wasn't to show how much I was buying it for, but to show @ccRicers that I also used the soft copper tubing that didn't bend as badly as his are.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Too much kinking and flattening in the copper tubes I've tried to bend. Top: Rigid, chrome-plated copper tubing. Bottom: coiled soft copper tubing. Chromed tubing has the thinner walls.


I think its your bender. Did you try oiling up the grooves? I also used soft copper and it did not get that much trouble. I first used the cheap $5 bender from home depot and that itself did a decent job. before I got a more expensive 10mm bender.


----------



## kgtuning

Ahhh I understand. I was thinking of soft copper too. I think I got a bad run of hard type L that broke everytime I bent it.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> I think its your bender. Did you try oiling up the grooves? I also used soft copper and it did not get that much trouble. I first used the cheap $5 bender from home depot and that itself did a decent job. before I got a more expensive 10mm bender.


I sure hope not, I bought a Ridgid bender for 1/2" tubing. It's in used condition and there is little wear but for the brand it should still be good. It cost me $50 for what would have been $90 otherwise new.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have used rapeseed oil, because it is supposedly good to use for bending of copper tubing and it does not hurt the o-rings inside fittings. So you could actually lube up your water cooling loop with it also, that is enough for me, there might be better choices out there, I am sure normal motor oil would work, but motor oil is worse to get rid of/clean off. Easier to use rapeseed because then you only need to clean the inside of the copper tubing after cutting/sanding the edges after/before bending, with other oils you would pretty much have to clean the inside and outside.


Holy crap I used some heavy grease from work.... fixed my issues. Thanks for recommending lubing the bender!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I sure hope not, I bought a Ridgid bender for 1/2" tubing. It's in used condition and there is little wear but for the brand it should still be good. It cost me $50 for what would have been $90 otherwise new.


Which rigid bender? I have a 1/2" one as well.. like I said above.. grease/oil made a night and day difference!



Practice on a scrape piece.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Which rigid bender? I have a 1/2" one as well.. like I said above.. grease/oil made a night and day difference!
> 
> 
> 
> Practice on a scrape piece.


Ridgid 398 bender.



Is there a minimum wall thickness for bending pipe?


----------



## kgtuning

I don't think I'd go below .035"


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Holy crap I used some heavy grease from work.... fixed my issues. Thanks for recommending lubing the bender!
> Which rigid bender? I have a 1/2" one as well.. like I said above.. grease/oil made a night and day difference!
> 
> 
> 
> Practice on a scrape piece.


Glad I could help, grease is the thing for bending, no doubt!









Soon to come a lot of bending for me, need at least six 90 degree bends and probably some other creativity, long nights ahead!









Check out my build thread in the next couple of weeks for some bending, I have started worry about it already.







Still have a "few" mods left to do though.


----------



## ccRicers

I have lubed the mandrel and die with some white lithium grease but the copper bends still come out flat on the outer radius. Maybe it could be my bender? Is there supposed to be no gap at all between the mandrel and the die that moves with the handle? I have about a 1mm gap on mine.

I ordered a cheapo bender ($30) and going to try to use grease with that and see if it will work better. Who knows, maybe it will actually work while it's still brand new.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I have lubed the mandrel and die with some white lithium grease but the copper bends still come out flat on the outer radius. Maybe it could be my bender? Is there supposed to be no gap at all between the mandrel and the die that moves with the handle? I have about a 1mm gap on mine.
> 
> I ordered a cheapo bender ($30) and going to try to use grease with that and see if it will work better. Who knows, maybe it will actually work while it's still brand new.


I still get a slight flattening even with greasing the bender.


The outside edge is somewhat flat.


----------



## kgtuning

ccRicers just out of curiosity what type of copper are you bending with those Rigid benders?


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> ccRicers just out of curiosity what type of copper are you bending with those Rigid benders?


I used this copper tubing: http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-fittings/pipe/copper-pipes/1-2-od-3-8-id-x-10-copper/p-1451237-c-8565.htm

Is it normal for the outside edge to still get flat a little?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I used this copper tubing: http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-fittings/pipe/copper-pipes/1-2-od-3-8-id-x-10-copper/p-1451237-c-8565.htm
> 
> Is it normal for the outside edge to still get flat a little?


Hmm I thought you needed a bending spring to do "soft" copper as it supports the walls from collapsing. Hard tubing you would use a bender.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Hmm I thought you needed a bending spring to do "soft" copper as it supports the walls from collapsing. Hard tubing you would use a bender.


I also used a hard tube with the bender, but it kinked like crazy. I think the wall on the hard tube was too thin because it was something like 1/32". For comparison the soft tube wall was 1/16".

I guess neither are good specifications. I've tried to look everywhere if there is an optimal wall thickness to tube thickness ratio for best results with bending copper.


----------



## kgtuning

Yes that wall is too thin on your hard tubing. Where do you buy it from? The soft tubing needs to be supported from the inside. Two different ways for two different types of copper. Even though the soft copper is thicker it's too soft for a mandrel bender. I'm not a pro at this but this what I've found by searching.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Yes that wall is too thin on your hard tubing. Where do you buy it from? The soft tubing needs to be supported from the inside. Two different ways for two different types of copper. Even though the soft copper is thicker it's too soft for a mandrel bender. I'm not a pro at this but this what I've found by searching.


The hard tubing is by Homewerks. It's a faucet supply line meant for sinks and toilets. It is pre-chromed, but the problem is that their spec sheets don't tell you the inside diameter. Same with the other brands of supply line tube that I have found.

I think I will just go get some regular hard copper tubing at 1/2" OD with .05" or .0625" wall thickness. This is much thicker than the supply line tubing and should hopefully give me better results.

The strange thing is the big hardware suppliers (Home Depot, Lowes) don't sell hard copper at 1/2" OD. The smallest they go is 5/8".


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> The hard tubing is by Homewerks. It's a faucet supply line meant for sinks and toilets. It is pre-chromed, but the problem is that their spec sheets don't tell you the inside diameter. Same with the other brands of supply line tube that I have found.
> 
> I think I will just go get some regular hard copper tubing at 1/2" OD with .05" or .0625" wall thickness. This is much thicker than the supply line tubing and should hopefully give me better results.
> 
> The strange thing is the big hardware suppliers (Home Depot, Lowes) don't sell hard copper at 1/2" OD. The smallest they go is 5/8".


The thickest wall on normal copper in the US is .049... type K. Do you have an FW Web around? They stock 1/2" OD.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> The thickest wall on normal copper in the US is .049... type K. Do you have an FW Web around? They stock 1/2" OD.


No, there isn't one around here (in the Midwest). I have found some .049 wall copper tube on McMaster Carr and thinking about getting that.


----------



## kgtuning

Maybe try coppertubingsales.Com probably a bit cheaper. The first few posts in this thread have more links.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I still get a slight flattening even with greasing the bender.
> 
> 
> The outside edge is somewhat flat.


Woot, outside edge is flat, that is the first time I have seen that. My cheapo 19 USD bender holds the tubing completely round, I am using 12/10 mm tubing though, 2 mm thick wall and I have never had any problems with that. Even though I have had some pretty sketchy bends, like the tubing on my "Black Hawk", LOL, that was BAD. (from GPU's to the QD3 bushing)







After several hours trying to get it good I did not care much, no leaks at all and nothing trouble, other than getting it in place.

I would advise you to get another bender, or try tubing with thicker walls, if it get flat I think there either is too much pressure or too thin walls (makes sense at least).


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Woot, outside edge is flat, that is the first time I have seen that. My cheapo 19 USD bender holds the tubing completely round, I am using 12/10 mm tubing though, 2 mm thick wall and I have never had any problems with that. Even though I have had some pretty sketchy bends, like the tubing on my "Black Hawk", LOL, that was BAD. (from GPU's to the QD3 bushing)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After several hours trying to get it good I did not care much, no leaks at all and nothing trouble, other than getting it in place.
> 
> I would advise you to get another bender, or try tubing with thicker walls, if it get flat I think there either is too much pressure or too thin walls (makes sense at least).


I think it's the tubing. Type L tubing wall at this size is .035" (.88mm) so a bit thinner then what you have. I bent some heavier SS tubing and it held the bend perfect. Hmm maybe I'll go up to type K .049" (1.2mm) I think.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I think it's the tubing. Type L tubing wall at this size is .035" (.88mm) so a bit thinner then what you have. I bent some heavier SS tubing and it held the bend perfect. Hmm maybe I'll go up to type K .049" (1.2mm) I think.


Why do you use so thin-walled tubing? As far as I have understood it does not have much to say if the inner diameter is 10 mm or 12 mm (or smaller/bigger), because of the flow will be limited by the fittings used which is G1/4"(?). I would definitely used thicker-walled tubing, 0,88 mm thick sounds awful thin to me. I even think 1,2 mm sounds thin.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Why do you use so thin-walled tubing? As far as I have understood it does not have much to say if the inner diameter is 10 mm or 12 mm (or smaller/bigger), because of the flow will be limited by the fittings used which is G1/4"(?). I would definitely used thicker-walled tubing, 0,88 mm thick sounds awful thin to me. I even think 1,2 mm sounds thin.


1mm is .040" so the difference is only .005 between my tubing and yours. I use this type of copper because I can buy it local and it's always in stock.


----------



## Solonowarion

I noiced there are stainless pipes listed as well. Why would one bend copper then get it plated as opposed to just bending stainless.


----------



## vegarhed

Have also been doing some bending. 12/10 mm tubing as well. Just to nitpick, that makes it 1 mm wall thickness









Not much help for anyone outside of Norway, but still, my results:

First I got a pre-chromed tube from Jula thinking it was the same tube as at Biltema. Not so much. Plating cracks when bent.



When bent slower the cracks weren't so wide, but more numerous.


This was all without lubing the forming shoes of the bender. My bender has rollers so didn't think it mattered that much.

Lubed with rapeseed oil improved it slightly, but still cracks.


Got a tube from Biltema and it bent beautifully. This is with a lubed up bender. Note that this test piece I've sanded a bit to try to prep for polishing. The original tube finish is a lot better than this.


On both tubes there's a slight waviness to the plating on the inside of the bend. Not really anything that can be done about that.

The tubes have some markings stamped on it. Not sure what it might mean. Wiser men than me might know.

Jula: WW T 3 13
Biltema: WW T 9 13


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I noiced there are stainless pipes listed as well. Why would one bend copper then get it plated as opposed to just bending stainless.


Stainless pipes cost more than copper is the usual reason for not going that route. However, the savings are probably lost if you get the copper plated professionally. Stainless is apparently more difficult to bend. It work hardens. Still, it can be done with proper benders.

I'm trying my luck with pre-plated tubes to avoid the extra costs.


----------



## kgtuning

Here's some of my stainless... 

It sucks to work with. I'd never want to use it in a loop. Plus none of our fittings really bite onto it because it's so hard.


----------



## ccRicers

I have bought 4 feet of 1/2 tubing from McMaster Carr. It's not plated but it should be an improvement from my bending attempts so far.

Plated tubing seems to come easier in Europe, especially the metric kind. As I mentioned before, the plated tubing sold locally in the US for some reason does not list the inner diameter for some reason. Thus I was taking a blind purchase when I didn't know if the walls would be thick enough to hold up when being bent.

If I could buy that sort of metric tubing I would be able to use my BP rigid fittings as well. I bet if were an option in specialty computer/water cooling shops, it would sell like gangbusters in the US. Someone's gotta fill that metric niche.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegarhed*
> 
> Have also been doing some bending. 12/10 mm tubing as well. Just to nitpick, that makes it 1 mm wall thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much help for anyone outside of Norway, but still, my results:
> 
> First I got a pre-chromed tube from Jula thinking it was the same tube as at Biltema. Not so much. Plating cracks when bent.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When bent slower the cracks weren't so wide, but more numerous.
> 
> 
> This was all without lubing the forming shoes of the bender. My bender has rollers so didn't think it mattered that much.
> 
> Lubed with rapeseed oil improved it slightly, but still cracks.
> 
> 
> Got a tube from Biltema and it bent beautifully. This is with a lubed up bender. Note that this test piece I've sanded a bit to try to prep for polishing. The original tube finish is a lot better than this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On both tubes there's a slight waviness to the plating on the inside of the bend. Not really anything that can be done about that.
> 
> The tubes have some markings stamped on it. Not sure what it might mean. Wiser men than me might know.
> 
> Jula: WW T 3 13
> Biltema: WW T 9 13


Oh right, my bad, of course it is 1 mm thick walls.









I have never tried the Jula copper tubing, only the tubing from Biltema, bought the 19 USD bender there too, been working good. I tend to use rapeseed oil on the cutter-blades too for a better cut and less friction between the small wheels on it. When bending I use rapeseed oil on the tubing itself and on the bender, I get tiny cracks on the inside of the tubing as well (almost not noticeable) and nevertheless they are not leaking so it is good. I have never made a loop I think where I actually could see the inside of the bend, so how much that means I guess is up to each and one of you.


----------



## kgtuning

How do you guys feel about mixing fitting extensions into a loop that is copper? An example would be a 90 degree fitting with a hard tube fitting attached to it.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> How do you guys feel about mixing fitting extensions into a loop that is copper? An example would be a 90 degree fitting with a hard tube fitting attached to it.


I have done that at least, I like both "all-fitting-loops" and "all-copper tubing loops", should there be a problem with doing 90 degree adapter and then hard tube fitting?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> I have done that at least, I like both "all-fitting-loops" and "all-copper tubing loops", should there be a problem with doing 90 degree adapter and then hard tube fitting?


I was just curious what people thought of using an adapter with tube fittings.
Im not sure what I think.. I think it may look cleaner with just tube fittings. But that's just my opinion. . Even though I may have to use adaters in my loop.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> How do you guys feel about mixing fitting extensions into a loop that is copper? An example would be a 90 degree fitting with a hard tube fitting attached to it.


I personally find to make a loop look right you need the consistent and symmetrical looking setup. Have seen loops with and with out, both looking good, but then there is others that just look plan wrong.


----------



## EPiiKK

Where can i buy 13mm bender in eu...?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I personally find to make a loop look right you need the consistent and symmetrical looking setup. Have seen loops with and with out, both looking good, but then there is others that just look plan wrong.


Consistency I think is key.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I was just curious what people thought of using an adapter with tube fittings.
> Im not sure what I think.. I think it may look cleaner with just tube fittings. But that's just my opinion. . Even though I may have to use adaters in my loop.


Well, I guess it depends on where you are going to route the tubing, in my build for example (from the top of the EK-FC Terminal Quad Semi) to the Mosfet-block, I have to use the hole to the right on the Terminal and the left hole on the Mosfet-block, and then it is impossible getting two 90 degree bends that close to each other that it will fit. The solution if I have to do it is either one 90 degree fitting and one 90 degree bend (still extremely close fit) or use two 90 degree fittings and some extensions to make it fit (the holes are not aligned with just two normal 90 degree fittings.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Well, I guess it depends on where you are going to route the tubing, in my build for example (from the top of the EK-FC Terminal Quad Semi) to the Mosfet-block, I have to use the hole to the right on the Terminal and the left hole on the Mosfet-block, and then it is impossible getting two 90 degree bends that close to each other that it will fit. The solution if I have to do it is either one 90 degree fitting and one 90 degree bend (still extremely close fit) or use two 90 degree fittings and some extensions to make it fit (the holes are not aligned with just two normal 90 degree fittings.


I think in that situation you would have to use 90 degree fittings. Not much you can do there unless you completely route it different.


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EPiiKK*
> 
> Where can i buy 13mm bender in eu...?


Have only seen 12mm or 15mm benders in the metric sizes. Are you sure you haven't got 1/2" tubing? 1/2 inch = 12,7 mm. There are benders for that. Though, maybe not too easily available outside of US or UK.
What fittings are you planning to use?


----------



## EPiiKK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegarhed*
> 
> Have only seen 12mm or 15mm benders in the metric sizes. Are you sure you haven't got 1/2" tubing? 1/2 inch = 12,7 mm. There are benders for that. Though, maybe not too easily available outside of US or UK.
> What fittings are you planning to use?


Aplhacool HT fittings with this pipe. http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/AT59309


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EPiiKK*
> 
> Aplhacool HT fittings with this pipe. http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/AT59309


There you go then, 13mm it is. Think you'll struggle finding a 13mm bender. Think it's kind of an oddball size. You could possibly get a 1/2 inch bender and sand down the bending formers on it.

Quick Google indicates the tube can be bent without cracking the plating


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I think in that situation you would have to use 90 degree fittings. Not much you can do there unless you completely route it different.


Thinking of a couple of scenarios, the best though is going away from the EK-FC Terminal and use BP SLI-adapters, then I can use the port on the left side on the EK-FC Terminal (more gap between the G1/4" holes) and I am sure I can get one nice bend, still have to use a 90 degree adapter though.

I have also thought about doing vertical tubing with connection of the tubing behind a internal "wall", but I am rethinking this as we speak, I am thinking of leaving the system ready for dual pumps and dual reservoirs, there is no simple solution to my problems with my build I am afraid.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Thinking of a couple of scenarios, the best though is going away from the EK-FC Terminal and use BP SLI-adapters, then I can use the port on the left side on the EK-FC Terminal (more gap between the G1/4" holes) and I am sure I can get one nice bend, still have to use a 90 degree adapter though.
> 
> I have also thought about doing vertical tubing with connection of the tubing behind a internal "wall", but I am rethinking this as we speak, I am thinking of leaving the system ready for dual pumps and dual reservoirs, there is no simple solution to my problems with my build I am afraid.


Seems never a simple solution whilst keeping things pretty. I am in a similar boat. Dual 560's,250 reservoirs and dual D5's inside a SMA8.


----------



## ginger_nuts

So how do you over come the problem of ports not aligning on any planes ?


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> So how do you over come the problem of ports not aligning on any planes ?


This. Seems a struggle for me anyways. I am still unsure of how the hell I am going to pipe some of my build. Since I am replacing at least both GPU's I am going to hold off hard piping until I get new hardware. I'll probably do pumps, radiators and reservoirs for now. But I wish my gpu blocks lines up with my cpu block... oh well.


----------



## Darkness Sakura

Out of curiosity, would it be better to not coat my copper piping and possibly use the piping as an additional heat dispersion point or are temps unaffected by the pipe, or rather minor temp variance.


----------



## iBored

I think this was discussed before. And the conclusion was that there will be heat dispersed from the copper pipes but not very significant.

Not sure how it will change if it's in an air conditioned room though. Either way, the radiator will do most of the cooling still.


----------



## iBored

Pipes now need some polishing


----------



## kgtuning

Nice! Anymore pics?


----------



## iBored

Soon
I'm 3 pipes in and the blade on my pipe cutter broke. Lol. Don't use regular cutters on ss pipes.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Soon
> I'm 3 pipes in and the blade on my pipe cutter broke. Lol. Don't use regular cutters on ss pipes.


Lol ^this... been there. I broke my cutter on the SS I was playing with. I look forward to seeing how yours comes out.


----------



## staccker

Question:

I am planning to go with a EK Nickel CPU block and GPU block (x2) and the EK PE radiators. These are the fittings I have lined up. I plan to use distilled water. I plan to use pipe for this project. Using the link on the first page for the 12mm pipe I come to a few pipe types. Is there a specific pipe I should be looking at for easy of use and metal compatibility for simple water cooling loop?


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staccker*
> 
> Question:
> 
> I am planning to go with a EK Nickel CPU block and GPU block (x2) and the EK PE radiators. These are the fittings I have lined up. I plan to use distilled water. I plan to use pipe for this project. Using the link on the first page for the 12mm pipe I come to a few pipe types. Is there a specific pipe I should be looking at for easy of use and metal compatibility for simple water cooling loop?


Quick note. The fittings you linked to are for flexible tubing and will not work for hard pipe. You want these or these. Push-in type and compression type respectively.


----------



## iBored

Having trouble getting parallel 45 deg bends.
What are the variables to control the springback in bending ss pipes?

btw, this chart from ridgid is pretty accurate on the length of pipe required for the bend.


----------



## staccker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegarhed*
> 
> Quick note. The fittings you linked to are for flexible tubing and will not work for hard pipe. You want these or these. Push-in type and compression type respectively.


Thanks for the heads up! Is one fitting generally better then the other?


----------



## vegarhed

They both don't leak







Personally I prefer the compression kind. A little easier to work with


----------



## Bartmole

Extremely informative thread and I apologize if these questions were answered but only part way through it. Love the look but what is the difference between cut hard and full hard classification L copper tubing and would powder coating the tubing cause leaks at the fitting or cause the already bent tube to become brittle from heat used in the process? Thanks


----------



## iBored

SS bending ftw!


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> SS bending ftw!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh my... that is sick! awesome job.


----------



## Bartmole

Nevermind, finally read through all this thread and found my answers, thanks. Beautiful work.


----------



## Alxz

Have anyone tried these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-Fitting-Extender-F-To-M-G1-4-Threaded-Chromed-Copper-For-PC-Liquid-Cooling-/181523583230?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item2a43a610fe

They seem pretty cheap








(Since i can't seem to buy from aquatuning because of overseas shiping to mexico)

Does anyone knows an international store to buy chromed copper 10mm??


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Have anyone tried these?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-Fitting-Extender-F-To-M-G1-4-Threaded-Chromed-Copper-For-PC-Liquid-Cooling-/181523583230?pt=US_Water_Cooling&hash=item2a43a610fe
> 
> They seem pretty cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Since i can't seem to buy from aquatuning because of overseas shiping to mexico)
> 
> Does anyone knows an international store to buy chromed copper 10mm??


Most people would have. That is just an extension fitting with a male and female thread. It isn't a fitting for tubing.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Most people would have. That is just an extension fitting with a male and female thread. It isn't a fitting for tubing.


Oh wow, i didn't even read the whole article haha i'm sorry.


----------



## kgtuning

Finally get this thing slowly piped...


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> SS bending ftw!


Mind if I ask what size SS tubing that is, and what fittings you decided on? Bitspower?


----------



## iBored

12mm OD 11mm ID SS316 pipes with lots and lots of polishing and bitspower EML silver shining fittings and adapters.


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> 12mm OD 11mm ID SS316 pipes with lots and lots of polishing and bitspower EML silver shining fittings and adapters.


Thank you my friend!


----------



## PepeLapiu

Pics here look amazing!
Thumbs up to the great work.

I am doing 10 mm OD copper pipes with the Aquatuning plastic push fits.
If my pumps are hooked up this way, do you think the pump vibrations will transfer to the pipes and amplify the pump noise?

I am considering using the normal tubing for the pumps just so it decouple the pumps properly.
And by the way, the pumps will likely not be mounted anywhere. Just hanging by the tubing.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Pics here look amazing!
> Thumbs up to the great work.
> 
> I am doing 10 mm OD copper pipes with the Aquatuning plastic push fits.
> If my pumps are hooked up this way, do you think the pump vibrations will transfer to the pipes and amplify the pump noise?
> 
> I am considering using the normal tubing for the pumps just so it decouple the pumps properly.
> And by the way, the pumps will likely not be mounted anywhere. Just hanging by the tubing.


I'm not sure but one of my D5's inlet is copper as seen a few posts back and goes through my midplate with no decoupling and actually sits on the metal with zero vibration or noise. Pump speed is on 5.


----------



## kgtuning

Beginning of mine..


----------



## abirli

@ccRicers

can you verify that the homewerks 1/2" supply line tube is 1/2" OD ? i need 1/2" od for my rocketscience fittings


----------



## iBored

And I'm back with more pipe bending!


----------



## Krusher33

I just noticed PPC carrying the Alphacool chrome-plated brass pipes. Curious: has anyone used it, tested, or anything? Sorry if it's been mentioned but I've been out of the WC'ing loop for quite some time now.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I just noticed PPC carrying the Alphacool chrome-plated brass pipes. Curious: has anyone used it, tested, or anything? Sorry if it's been mentioned but I've been out of the WC'ing loop for quite some time now.


yeah, i've been also interested in those new alphacool hard tubing/pipe fittings, any experience?


----------



## Killa Cam

Bump

was going to do acrylic tubing, but seems overdone. really want to try this, but I've already ordered my rigid 16mm od compression fittings. Will 5/8 od copper tubing work for my fittings?

Anyone else here tried 5/8 copper tubing? If so, what bender are you using?


----------



## stilllogicz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> yeah, i've been also interested in those new alphacool hard tubing/pipe fittings, any experience?


I'm interested in hearing about this as well. Any recommendations on a specific bender to work with this tubing?

[edit]

Well, just saw a modzoo video and they said it's not recommended to bend these tubes. Guess that rules that out. Sooo... coiled copper tubing vs hard copper, which is the preferred one for water cooling?

The coiled copper tubing (Type L I assume is the one everyone uses) is easier to manipulate but is it easily dented/dinged up? How does it hold up?

The hard copper will be harder to manipulate but obviously tougher.

Thoughts?

I'd like to get some sort of plating done on the final pieces, nickel or chrome.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> I'm interested in hearing about this as well. Any recommendations on a specific bender to work with this tubing?
> 
> [edit]
> 
> Well, just saw a modzoo video and they said it's not recommended to bend these tubes. Guess that rules that out. Sooo... coiled copper tubing vs hard copper, which is the preferred one for water cooling?
> 
> The coiled copper tubing (Type L I assume is the one everyone uses) is easier to manipulate but is it easily dented/dinged up? How does it hold up?
> 
> The hard copper will be harder to manipulate but obviously tougher.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> I'd like to get some sort of plating done on the final pieces, nickel or chrome.


Ive been using them in my build log with plain copper pipe type M (3/8ID 1/2OD) and are pretty good , no leaks yet









The main problem with coiled.copper is when you want to straighten it, there is a tool made by kwix.uk which does wonders but kinda pricey. I think its better and cheaper to go for hard copper pipe then bend it with a proper bender.


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> The hard copper will be harder to manipulate but obviously tougher.
> 
> Thoughts?


Went with hard copper and the recommended rothenberger (Albeit a short radius 90 degree bender). I need to put more effort into putting constant pressure on the bend rather than going to fast. It's not very hard to bend with a decent bender.


----------



## stilllogicz

Thanks for the help guys. I just ran across this:

http://www.tubestore.co.uk/ourshop/cat_584044-10mm-Chrome-Soft-Copper-Tube.html

Where can we get some stuff like this in the US?


----------



## szeged

anyone try these out http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-hardtube-13-10mm-brass-black-chrome-finish-40cm.html ?

I wanted to try stainless steel pipe but good god it is expensive here. Also chrome plating around here is just as expensive and i dont want to ghetto it up and use chrome spray paint lol.

unless someone can point me to where i can get 12mm OD stainless steel piping without having to sell my house for it.

edit- nvm found this

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Seamless-Tubing-Length/dp/B004XN8GN8/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1426987233&sr=1-2&keywords=5%2F8+stainless+steel+tubing

and

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Welded-Tubing-Length/dp/B004TUEAHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426987097&sr=8-1&keywords=5%2F8+stainless+steel+tubing

do you guys think these might work?


----------



## housefly88

I have a ridgid 12mm stainless bender, and have used stainless here in the US, I won't do another build like that again. Stainless is very very unforgiving. If you need plating I have a place right down the road I take misc blocks and copper tubing I have pre-bent too. Its quite inexpensive compared to the cost and waste of a few misplaced bends. Shoot me a PM if you want info on the nickel / chrome plating


----------



## charliebrown

so im doing copper for my new build said the hell with acrylic just want to know will my revolver fittings work with copper if i get the same diameter or do i need special fittings also b-neg my build colors are red/charcoal grey/black want chrome plated copper but i heard it cracks when you bend it i dont think regular copper will look good with that color scheme your thoughts

thanks in advance


----------



## charliebrown

what about this

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerks-Worldwide-1-2-in-x-20-in-Chrome-Plated-Copper-Faucet-Supply-Line-7226-20-6-12-2/203672694?N=5yc1vZ1z13bpbZbqki


----------



## Draxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> so im doing copper for my new build said the hell with acrylic just want to know will my revolver fittings work with copper if i get the same diameter or do i need special fittings also b-neg my build colors are red/charcoal grey/black want chrome plated copper but i heard it cracks when you bend it i dont think regular copper will look good with that color scheme your thoughts
> 
> thanks in advance


Regarding compatibility with your previous fittings, as long as they are rigid compression/similar you should be more than fine.


----------



## Draxx

Has anyone in this thread (without reading through 187 pages of posts) roughed up the outside of copper tubing then used something like SEM primer or engine enamel for paint schemes?


----------



## Domiro

Going to try soon, waiting for motherboard RMA before I can progress.


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Draxx*
> 
> Has anyone in this thread (without reading through 187 pages of posts) roughed up the outside of copper tubing then used something like SEM primer or engine enamel for paint schemes?


have a pic of any


----------



## charliebrown

couldnt find nickel copper to get to me in time for my build to be done so im just using stainless steel or chrome like paint with lacquer finish


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Bump
> 
> was going to do acrylic tubing, but seems overdone. really want to try this, but I've already ordered my rigid 16mm od compression fittings. Will 5/8 od copper tubing work for my fittings?
> 
> Anyone else here tried 5/8 copper tubing? If so, what bender are you using?


You ever get an answer on this? I'm in the same boat right now, though I've ordered the copper and some fittings already so I guess if you haven't already started I should know in the next week. Most 5/8 benders I have seen are 2 1/4 inch radius which seems like a lot compared to the acrylic tube of the same size with 24mm radius (<1 in) @ center line.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> @ccRicers
> 
> can you verify that the homewerks 1/2" supply line tube is 1/2" OD ? i need 1/2" od for my rocketscience fittings


It is a tad less than 1/2" OD but I don't recommend this pipe anymore since the walls are too thin for proper bending.


----------



## Alxz

not really bending (only 1 bend)

but still my first time with copper!
(3/8 ID 1/2 OD).


----------



## Krusher33

Ugh, I have acrylics I haven't bent yet but y'all making me want to go copper again.


----------



## XKaan

Would anyone in the US mind sharing where they are buying metric stainless tubing? Specifically, 12mm OD? I'm really having a tough time finding it from a supplier that doesn't require an insane minimum order.

Thanks for any help!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Would anyone in the US mind sharing where they are buying metric stainless tubing? Specifically, 12mm OD? I'm really having a tough time finding it from a supplier that doesn't require an insane minimum order.
> 
> Thanks for any help!


http://www.mcmaster.com/#50415k36/=wro8av


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#50415k36/=wro8av


You Da man! Thanks!

The fact that it is welded SS shouldn't matter unless it's crap quality and you can see the seam. For that price I'll order some and go from there. Thanks!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> You Da man! Thanks!
> 
> The fact that it is welded SS shouldn't matter unless it's crap quality and you can see the seam. For that price I'll order some and go from there. Thanks!


welded shouldnt matter if you polish it, when it comes right from the factory the seam is barely noticable, if you dont plan on polishing you can just face the seam away from view. If you do polish it correctly then its not going to be noticable at all. Im using welded 316 stainless in my upcoming build and it looks mirror finished all around.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Ugh, I have acrylics I haven't bent yet but y'all making me want to go copper again.


Im going back to copper,acrylic is played out for me.....


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im going back to copper,acrylic is played out for me.....


yeah acrylic replaced soft tubing almost entirely in a year or so, its everywhere and even when done right its still like....k...still looks like that other guys rig.


----------



## superericla

After doing copper for a while, and then acrylic for a while, I think it's about time for me to go back to regular tubing.


----------



## She loved E

IDK air cooling is the new hotness.


----------



## kanaks

Well i was searching for a decent pipe bending tool when i stumbled upon this witchery...


----------



## wonderwall




----------



## gunslinger0077

Does stainless play nice with copper waterblocks?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> Well i was searching for a decent pipe bending tool when i stumbled upon this witchery...


this take out of the fun of it


----------



## shimeng

After failing miserably at acrylic tube bending I've decided to give copper pipe a try.

There are several local suppliers that carry 12mm OD copper tubing but they come in various wall thickness (0.6mm, 0.8mm, 1.0mm, 1.2mm and 1.5mm) and hardness (full hard, half hard).

Which one should I be getting?

I will be using these with 12/10mm Bitspower EML fittings and I have a Ridgid 412M bender on the way.


----------



## vegarhed

I used half hard in 1mm wall thickness and it worked beautifully. Bent easily enough with a bender, no sign of collapsing.


----------



## shimeng

Thanks vegarhed. I will get some half hard pipe and give it a try.


----------



## Ceadderman

Gonna stick w/acrylic for now. Will likely go Copper for Wife and Teenager systems.









~Ceadder


----------



## Alxz

Hey guys, ive been using type M copper but i cant bend it without kinks. Does type L do a better job ??


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Hey guys, ive been using type M copper but i cant bend it without kinks. Does type L do a better job ??


Yes type L does a better job imo. I actually switched to coiled tubing.. so much easier to work with.


----------



## Ceadderman

I wouldn't want to work from a coil. Much easier to keep straight runs straight with straight pipe. Although a touch more expensive.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't want to work from a coil. Much easier to keep straight runs straight with straight pipe. Although a touch more expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Nothing wrong with coiled tube,I use it all the time because.....

http://www.kwixuk.com/


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I wouldn't want to work from a coil. Much easier to keep straight runs straight with straight pipe. Although a touch more expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing wrong with coiled tube,I use it all the time because.....
> 
> http://www.kwixuk.com/
Click to expand...

Meh, that's $50 US here. Why would I want another tool that I don't need when I can just buy what I require in straight pipe. But if it works fer ya, that's all that matters. I won't judge or put ya down fer it.









~Ceadder


----------



## shimeng

I wasn't able to find any half hard pipe locally but I did manage to get some full hard 12mm. It took a fair bit of elbow grease but I was able to make consistent bends.
Unfortunately the radius on the Ridgid bender is 38mm and that isn't enough to produce a tight enough bend that I need for two sections in my loop (lower video card to midplate pas-thru).

I tried bending the pipe around a 90 degree Monsoon acrylic mandrel (23mm radius) but it just folded. Has anyone tried this with soft copper coil? Any suggestions on how I can make tighter bends?


----------



## Ceadderman

Use heat.









Copper is a soft metal. Shouldn't take much. Plumbers use heat to get copper lines to bend smoothly.









~Ceadder


----------



## szeged

youre gonna have to use a torch to get copper hot enough to bend if its hard copper though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup. But it sure gets the kinks out.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Or you could,you know,just buy it annealed......


----------



## Black Magix

posting here because I just found this and this is something I want to do!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Black Magix*
> 
> posting here because I just found this and this is something I want to do!


Try "subbed" mebbe?







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## housefly88

I have used 12mm hard pipe, radius of 38mm about as good as it gets with a ridgid bender. You might want to try a low profile angled adapter, (bitspower 45*) then bend to that. I hope that made sense. Also you if you have room, you can make a compound bends.


----------



## Black Magix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try "subbed" mebbe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


You and your logic. Who's got time for that









So in a watercooling setup, where can you buy these kinds of pipes and tools? I'm a noob at this but would love to do this since I've got quite a bit under water in my system (Mosfet, northbridge, cpu, and video card.)


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Black Magix*
> 
> You and your logic. Who's got time for that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in a watercooling setup, where can you buy these kinds of pipes and tools? I'm a noob at this but would love to do this since I've got quite a bit under water in my system (Mosfet, northbridge, cpu, and video card.)


amazon, ace, grainger, fergusons ( if you have one) places like that.

avoid home depot/lowes type places, they generally have garbage equipment and workers that dont know jack because their last job was fast food.


----------



## Ceadderman

Our HD is pretty good actually. It gets A LOT of contractor business. And their selection of tools is pretty good too. Yeah they got cheap stuff, but they stock it for the skinflints that don't want to buy quality over a disposable tool.









~Ceadder


----------



## colinmcr

Amazon UK charge 83 GBP for 10mtrs of 12mm OD Copper Tubing, sounds a tad expensive to me. Anywhere else for UK buyers that might be cheaper?


----------



## NavyChief

Kwix UK 1/2" OD tube straightener and Rigid 36132 tube bender worked like a charm on 1/2" OD coiled copper tubing.





First tube section placed and ready.


----------



## duckweedpb7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NavyChief*
> 
> Kwix UK 1/2" OD tube straightener and Rigid 36132 tube bender worked like a charm on 1/2" OD coiled copper tubing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First tube section placed and ready.


Is it kosher to use the 1/2" tube with those bitspower fittings? Looks good!


----------



## housefly88

I would say no. Bitspower c47's are for 12mm not 1/2" (12.7mm)

From experience when hard piping a build weather it be acrylic, copper,or stainless, choose the tubing size first, I say this because in the US 12mm copper is not the easiest to find, yes you can get it, but it isn't comming from the local big box hardware store. Same goes with the bender or mandrel. In the last year or so fittings can easily obtained in all sizes.
On the flip side If you want to use a specific fitting, then you must sorce your tubing, and tools to match. Now I'm not saying you can't mod it to work but believe me it's been tried and requires more effort then it's worth with substandard results.
I have and still do use 12mm tubing, and am in the US, although If the selection of fittings were available 3-4 years ago that are available now, I would be using 1/2" but unfortunately I have too much invested in 12mm ridgid benders, mandrels, inserts, tools and spare fittings.
Just a little insight hope this can help someone.


----------



## NavyChief

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckweedpb7*
> 
> Is it kosher to use the 1/2" tube with those bitspower fittings? Looks good!


The fittings for the tubing are actually Primochill Rigid Revolver Compression 3/8"ID x 1/2"OD.



All other fittings are Bitspower.


----------



## duckweedpb7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NavyChief*
> 
> The fittings for the tubing are actually Primochill Rigid Revolver Compression 3/8"ID x 1/2"OD.
> 
> 
> 
> All other fittings are Bitspower.


Awesome, thanks for the info!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *housefly88*
> 
> I would say no. Bitspower c47's are for 12mm not 1/2" (12.7mm)
> 
> From experience when hard piping a build weather it be acrylic, copper,or stainless, choose the tubing size first, I say this because in the US 12mm copper is not the easiest to find, yes you can get it, but it isn't comming from the local big box hardware store. Same goes with the bender or mandrel. In the last year or so fittings can easily obtained in all sizes.
> On the flip side If you want to use a specific fitting, then you must sorce your tubing, and tools to match. Now I'm not saying you can't mod it to work but believe me it's been tried and requires more effort then it's worth with substandard results.
> I have and still do use 12mm tubing, and am in the US, although If the selection of fittings were available 3-4 years ago that are available now, I would be using 1/2" but unfortunately I have too much invested in 12mm ridgid benders, mandrels, inserts, tools and spare fittings.
> Just a little insight hope this can help someone.


Good to know for sure. Looks like I will have to invest in metric tools! Thanks!


----------



## AT-Pascal

New Video of the Alphacool heatgun for those that are interested


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks like any other heatgun available.

But I believe that you want the Acrylic Pipe Bending 101 thread.









~Ceadder


----------



## MOSER91

Just wanted to share these pictures of my watercooling setup.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT-Pascal*
> 
> New Video of the Alphacool heatgun for those that are interested


Lol Pas,its just a heatgun fella,cheap and cheerful is the way forward. And,as Ceadder has already mentioned,this is completely the wrong thread......


----------



## Ceadderman

Apologies B if I overstepped my bounds.









~Ceadder


----------



## Alxz

If i my copper tubing gets chromed, do i have to worry about galvanic corrosion? (as far as i know, there is a difference between chrome and nickel platting, doesn't it?)


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> If i my copper tubing gets chromed, do i have to worry about galvanic corrosion? (as far as i know, there is a difference between chrome and nickel platting, doesn't it?)


My understanding is that the medium (water/coolant) would need to be in contact with the dissimilar metals to create galvanic corrosion. Maybe someone more educated will either correct me or back me up.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> If i my copper tubing gets chromed, do i have to worry about galvanic corrosion? (as far as i know, there is a difference between chrome and nickel platting, doesn't it?)


What I was told is when you have the items plated, you need to specify that they be plated to corrosion resistant thickness and you will be good to go!

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> If i my copper tubing gets chromed, do i have to worry about galvanic corrosion? (as far as i know, there is a difference between chrome and nickel platting, doesn't it?)
> 
> 
> 
> What I was told is when you have the items plated, you need to specify that they be plated to corrosion resistant thickness and you will be good to go!
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

This.

And,due to the physics of the plating method,chrome doesnt get deposited on the inside of the tube. At least no chromed tube I have ever used has been chromed on the inside.


----------



## shimeng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shimeng*
> 
> I wasn't able to find any half hard pipe locally but I did manage to get some full hard 12mm. It took a fair bit of elbow grease but I was able to make consistent bends.
> Unfortunately the radius on the Ridgid bender is 38mm and that isn't enough to produce a tight enough bend that I need for two sections in my loop (lower video card to midplate pas-thru).
> 
> I tried bending the pipe around a 90 degree Monsoon acrylic mandrel (23mm radius) but it just folded. Has anyone tried this with soft copper coil? Any suggestions on how I can make tighter bends?


@Housefly, that was an excellent suggestion however the distance between the fittings won't allow for any combination of angled fittings and/or parallel bends to work, especially the one between the lower video card and the midplate/reservoir.

I'd like to try soft annealed copper pipe but am a little hesitant because of the following:

1) Every local supplier I've come across will only sell soft copper pipe in runs of 15 meters minimum (they like to call it "pancake coil") which runs about US$90.
2) I'd also have to get a Kwix tool to straighten the pipe. That's about US$60 before shipping and I live in Asia, so that's going to be a chunk more.
3) Apart from the above costs, I have not been able to find a tried and tested method for getting consistent tight bends on 12mm copper pipe.

Can the copper stalwarts please chime in?


----------



## Ceadderman

You could always get copper tube fittings and braze them into the loop if you cannot get your bends tight enough to suit. You can get them at any hardware store too.









~Ceadder


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Great guide, beat me to it! I'm getting all my copper stuff in this week so I'll definitely be having an awesome weekend coming up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone is looking for 12mm copper tubing, go to:
> 
> www.coppertubingsales.com
> 
> EXTREMELY CHEAP compared to McMasterCarr. The only downside is that you have to buy a 10 meter roll from them and they will not sell anything less. But is is an awesome deal and you can save the rest of the copper for your next build! !


Has anyone used these guys recently?

Their 10mm copper is half the cost of McMaster

Also, in the original post B-Neg' used these fittings:
http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/fittings/push-in-fittings/6607/10mm-g1/4-plug-fitting-black-nickel

Do those have a brass or plastic insert? I'm looking at these, which are metallic, and have the warning that they are only for PUR tubing:
http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/fittings/push-in-fittings/5344/10mm-channel-connector-complete-nickel-coated?c=6491
http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/fittings/push-in-fittings/5346/10mm-g1/4-plug-nickel-plated?c=6491

Can I use these for 10mm OD copper? Thanks!


----------



## AT-Pascal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Lol Pas,its just a heatgun fella,cheap and cheerful is the way forward. And,as Ceadder has already mentioned,this is completely the wrong thread......


Ooops wrong 101 thread!

Content more fitting this thread then:



Alphacool now sell Pre-bent tubes for a perfect bend


----------



## shimeng

May I ask what the bend radius is? I can't find it in the specifications (aquatuning.co.uk or alphacool.com). Also, any chance these will come in 12/10mm?


----------



## AT-Pascal

I will double check on the radius for you but 12/10 will follow yes







As will other lengths and bends.


----------



## Archea47

Alright, so I'm embarking on this journey!

The Aquatuning 10mm pushfits arrived last week from Germany

I ordered the copper tubing (6m) from CopperTubingSales.com. Came out to be $75 and change shipped to the midwest. A Lot better pricing than McMaster Carr!


----------



## Alxz

I just got my tubes chromed~


----------



## NavyChief

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> I just got my tubes chromed~


Very nice!! Will have to post a picture of my chromed copper tubing also.


----------



## szeged

didnt exactly bend anything but...heres some shots of my stainless coming together


----------



## kgtuning

That looks sick man. Nice job.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Still got dat copper <3


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> I just got my tubes chromed~


Me too, heh heh heh.

Seriously sweet tho.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Still got dat copper <3


the lighting in the case really makes it amazing. I would vote for you again for sure if they did a revote.


----------



## rakunSA

hi all, this will be my 3rd loop. there's a ton of information here so I just want to summarize to see if I got this correct:

If I go 12mm OD/10mm ID piping, then I can use the bitspower C47 fittings. The bitspower fittings are easier to get in the US but 12mm is harder to get in the US (i noticed mcmaster charges a fortune)
I could go with some 1/2" OD stuff from home depot or lowes, but i couldn't find which fittings people are suggesting. Though some comments have suggested that aquatuning now carries some for 1/2" OD?
My inclination is to go with 12mm pipe because I like the the bitspower fittings....are there any suggestions for other ones? not keen on the koolance ones as i see that it involves biting into the pipe. I think that the push fit ones are fine?
As far as plating is concerned, i think the general consensus is to get straight copper, and then plate afterwards?
for the pipe bender, i think i have a 1/2" OD one at work. do i have to get a new one if i go 12mm or can i just use the one at work?
please let me know if I have this all correct.

thanks!

EDIT: i've done a little more research and i think i'll do this:


Monsoon Economy Hardline Fittings for 1/2" OD pipe
1/2" OD chrome plated pipe (i don't need long sections since I have a small case and i figure i can just cut the end off):
http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-1-2-in-O-D-x-20-in-Copper-Toilet-Riser-in-Chrome-3-20DL-CF/205597645?MERCH=RV-_-rv_nav_plp_rr-_-NA-_-205597645-_-N
Does this sound reasonable to you guys?


----------



## shimeng

Before you begin, have you checked to see if there's enough room between your components and fittings to accommodate copper pipe?

Most 1/2" manual tube benders I've come across have a centerline radius (CLR) of 1-1/2" which produces a wide bend. You may not be able produce bends tight enough to bridge fittings that are too close to each other.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> hi all, this will be my 3rd loop. there's a ton of information here so I just want to summarize to see if I got this correct:
> 
> If I go 12mm OD/10mm ID piping, then I can use the bitspower C47 fittings. The bitspower fittings are easier to get in the US but 12mm is harder to get in the US (i noticed mcmaster charges a fortune)
> I could go with some 1/2" OD stuff from home depot or lowes, but i couldn't find which fittings people are suggesting. Though some comments have suggested that aquatuning now carries some for 1/2" OD?


For what it's worth, I ordered my tube from CopperTubingSales.com which was about half the price of McMaster. They too ship quick. I haven't actually bended the pipe, though

Speaking of which, I bought some ebay benders from the UK. Are the grooved surfaces supposed to mate up to each other while bending? There's a good 10mm at least between the two pieces throughout the bend. They sure feel like junk as well - lots of casting flash to file off


----------



## Ceadderman

Would anyone suggest tube flaring kits like are used on steel brake/fuel line connections?

I would think that doing so would create a tighter seal than straight cut connections?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would anyone suggest tube flaring kits like are used on steel brake/fuel line connections?
> 
> I would think that doing so would create a tighter seal than straight cut connections?


I've done a lot of brake/clutch and fuel line flaring on a variety of flares & metals. I always used cheap flaring tools (found at harbor freight & under different brands elsewhere), and over time they (particularly the inner reamer) wear out and get harder/frustrating to use. I'd say 1 in 20 of my flares leaked but I'd redo a bit more than that (I'm not a pro), depending on the type of flare. The problem is that on a nice complex pipe is bended, mangling the flare means cutting the pipe which usually needs either more fittings or to rebend the pipe

The flares obviously seal well, since they handle the pressure of a car's brake hydraulics. If they're stronger than the o-rings in current fittings, however, the o-rings still in your system on the G1/4 side of fittings into blocks might be something to think about (and the pressure rating for the waterblocks vs. o-rings)


----------



## Ceadderman

Ummmm okay. Flaring the ends wouldn't add undue pressure to the flowrate, I would think. It would simply create a better seal at the line over straight cut pipe.









~Ceadder


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ummmm okay. Flaring the ends wouldn't add undue pressure to the flowrate, I would think. It would simply create a better seal at the line over straight cut pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I suppose my point was flaring is more work while orings shouldn't have problems sealing our systems. Are you having issues? Heck there are rubber seals in the brake systems as well for sealing around the moving master cylinder and caliper pistons, and at those pressure levels some of our water blocks would probably fail

Don't get me wrong, this is oc.net and I'd like to see it. I just think the orings are less likely to leak due to user error and are plenty adequate for our pressures. Also, akin to the ferrule-type compression fittings, you're forcing metal to form the shape with your own strength when torquing down the fittings. My threads there are either acetal on the CPU and GPU terminal or copper on the mobo blocks so gotta be careful with the bottom nut when cranking them down


----------



## Ceadderman

No. No issues at all. Just wondering if I use copper tubing if I might actually flare the ends at the fitting while still using the oring. Sort of like the monsoon acrylic locks keep the tubing locked in place.









~Ceadder


----------



## Alxz

finally finished this build!

thanks to all for the info in this thread, it was extremely useful!


----------



## colinmcr

Very nice Alxz


----------



## Mad Monk

Just started reading the thread so maybe the answer to this question is out there and I've not found it yet.









Why not use normal plumbing compression fittings for the cooper pipe?

Perhaps an adapter to reduce the pipe to fit in the part being hooked up?

Cheers,

PS: Subbed


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Monk*
> 
> Just started reading the thread so maybe the answer to this question is out there and I've not found it yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not use normal plumbing compression fittings for the cooper pipe?
> 
> Perhaps an adapter to reduce the pipe to fit in the part being hooked up?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> PS: Subbed


Hey Mad Monk,

The Koolance-style fittings are what I'd call normal compression fittings - those are certainly available. They use a brass ferrule that's compressed/formed against the tube when cranking down the fitting

What's different from what you find at the corner True Value is the G1/4 BSPP outer to thread into the blocks (rather than NPT etc).

Also check out the push-fits aka push-to-connect. Being a shopper in the US, the source for nickle or black-nickle plated push-fits is aquatuning,us. Amazon also carries some push-to-connects but largely in the half-nickle/half-plastic variety


----------



## Mad Monk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey Mad Monk,
> 
> The Koolance-style fittings are what I'd call normal compression fittings - those are certainly available. They use a brass ferrule that's compressed/formed against the tube when cranking down the fitting
> 
> What's different from what you find at the corner True Value is the G1/4 BSPP outer to thread into the blocks (rather than NPT etc).
> 
> Also check out the push-fits aka push-to-connect. Being a shopper in the US, the source for nickle or black-nickle plated push-fits is aquatuning,us. Amazon also carries some push-to-connects but largely in the half-nickle/half-plastic variety


Archea47,

First and foremost, thank you.









I am still back a ways in reading this thread so these questions may have been answered. Just want to check out my understanding and see where I may be going sideways.

I want the largest Inside Diameter (ID) pipe I can fit without having to mod it. Is this the fitting you mentioned? http://koolance.com/nozzle-single-for-od-13mm-1-2in-soft-copper-pipe?

Also, some of my configuration may need tight 90 degree bends. Are 90 degree fittings and "T" fittings available or do I cobble together those fittings with the one above? My soldering skills for plumbing are passable (no leaks) but are darn ugly and I'd like to avoid demonstrating my shortcomings if possible.









If I am still on track, perhaps you would share a link to the push to connect fittings? So far Google has me up to my ears in quick disconnect fittings.

On reread - If you or anybody else has used the Koolance fittings, how tight do you tighten them? Looks like they need the use wrenches; two of them actually.

Cheers,


----------



## Archea47

The koolance type do certainly need wrenches

For 90s there are push fit or push to connect 90s and that's probably the most elegant solution. Search on Amazon, push to connect 13mm (or whatever size). I think they're in the industrial and scientific category. Aquatuning has them as well but not sure about 13mm (I have 10)

Otherwise you could get a 90* elbow with g1/4 BSPP female ends on both sides and screw in strait fittings


----------



## Mad Monk

Edit:

Local plumbing supply stores and big box stores sell chromed copper pipes to use as risers for exposed plumbing. Not sure what OD sizes are available. The ones in my bathroom look to be about 1/4 inch. But... if sold in a useful size it would be a lot cheaper than having pipes chromed. The other side of that coin is the chrome may crack off when the pipe is bent.

Just a thought.









Cheers


----------



## Mad Monk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> The koolance type do certainly need wrenches
> 
> For 90s there are push fit or push to connect 90s and that's probably the most elegant solution. Search on Amazon, push to connect 13mm (or whatever size). I think they're in the industrial and scientific category. Aquatuning has them as well but not sure about 13mm (I have 10)
> 
> Otherwise you could get a 90* elbow with g1/4 BSPP female ends on both sides and screw in strait fittings


Archea47,

Once again thank you very much. Sharing your knowledge just got me back on track.









Not sure of etiquette here yet, so following the lead I've seen sent a Rep your way.









Allegedly these fittings are G 1/4 BSPP fittings. http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/?searchterm=G1%2F4+Bspp+fittings&hdrsrh=true Not sure if maybe the threaded section is to deep to use on a block and they are pricy. Also, those examples max out at 12mm tube OD. I'd value your opinion on these. If anybody else has any experience with these or thoughts I sure hope you share them.

Thank you once again.

Cheers.


----------



## Archea47

Hey Mad Monk,

I'm a newbie still IMO as well, just read the whole thread and purchased all my tube, fittings etc. Looking to start bending next week

As for the prescribed pre-chromed supply line pipe, that's been successfully in this thread. Actually I think it's what was used in the first post


----------



## Mad Monk

Archea47,

I am still reading everything from the beginning. About 1/2 way through.







Apologies to all if I add something that was already covered.







It cropped up in my reading so I wanted to contribute something. In hind sight - should have waited until I'd read the other half of the thread.

I'm asking questions as I go to better understand and target my research. That is why I appreciate your responses so much.

I peeked at your impending build; impressive.

Cheers


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Monk*
> 
> Archea47,
> 
> First and foremost, thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am still back a ways in reading this thread so these questions may have been answered. Just want to check out my understanding and see where I may be going sideways.
> 
> I want the largest Inside Diameter (ID) pipe I can fit without having to mod it. Is this the fitting you mentioned? http://koolance.com/nozzle-single-for-od-13mm-1-2in-soft-copper-pipe?
> 
> Also, some of my configuration may need tight 90 degree bends. Are 90 degree fittings and "T" fittings available or do I cobble together those fittings with the one above? My soldering skills for plumbing are passable (no leaks) but are darn ugly and I'd like to avoid demonstrating my shortcomings if possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I am still on track, perhaps you would share a link to the push to connect fittings? So far Google has me up to my ears in quick disconnect fittings.
> 
> On reread - If you or anybody else has used the Koolance fittings, how tight do you tighten them? Looks like they need the use wrenches; two of them actually.
> 
> Cheers,


with the Koolance CU13 fittings... tightening requires two wrenches, spin the compression nut down hand tight then 1.25 turns with the wrench. I use the parker and Swagelok method.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I would avoid those Koolance fittings,they require considerable force to fully seal and if you slip with those spanners...that close to the mobo or GPU.....well.....it wont end well.
You will also need 'Plumbers Mait' or equivalent. to guarantee water tightness.
You will also have a tube where the ferrules will need to be cut off and replaced if you need to change parts,the sealing olive is a one shot deal and cannot be changed pipe to pipe,it literally cuts into the tube.

Far better to use the EK or Bitspower fittings over those IMO.

As for bending chrome pipe...try to find toilet upstand tube as bathroom grade chrome is substantially better than a cosmetic strike. It will resist cracking but YMMV.


----------



## kgtuning

They are rotary for a reason. compress outside the case and then spin the rotary part into the water block, radiator etc. Bneg, I understand and respect your knowledge and experience but really the koolance fittings are super easy to use. If you change a block or whatever you need to rebend the tubing anyway, so really the .50 cent ferrule isn't a big deal.


----------



## Mad Monk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I would avoid those Koolance fittings,they require considerable force to fully seal and if you slip with those spanners...that close to the mobo or GPU.....well.....it wont end well.
> You will also need 'Plumbers Mait' or equivalent. to guarantee water tightness.
> You will also have a tube where the ferrules will need to be cut off and replaced if you need to change parts,the sealing olive is a one shot deal and cannot be changed pipe to pipe,it literally cuts into the tube.
> 
> Far better to use the EK or Bitspower fittings over those IMO.
> 
> As for bending chrome pipe...try to find toilet upstand tube as bathroom grade chrome is substantially better than a cosmetic strike. It will resist cracking but YMMV.


B Negative,

Thank you.









Perhaps you would be kind enough to provide a follow up with specific fittings?

Life happened and my build has to wait. A good thing because I can now, hopefully, add copper pipe instead of flexible tubing.

Thank you again.

Cheers


----------



## Mad Monk

Dear all,

Among the many informative and helpful sites here I found a build log by fast_fate. His wiring has me only wishing I may get close to that some day.

Here is my thought; or what may be accused of passing for a thought anyway.









Home distillers have a way to get a tight coil on copper tubing***. Cannot find my links anymore sorry. None-the less, the idea is to use copper pipe, either a straight run or moonshiner's coil, to run wires from the top of the case to the basement. My custom sleeveing efforts are a work in progress but I can take off a clip and get it back on. In theory it should work, keep the wiring tidy and not impede air flow. Thoughts?

Anybody done anything like this. If yes please share your experience and insights. A link would be cool also.

Cheers,

PS: *** What I recall was a wooden mandrel used inside a PVC pipe to get a tight coil.


----------



## NavyChief

Here is my first attempt at copper tubing. The tubing is 1/2"OD and chrome plated.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NavyChief*
> 
> Here is my first attempt at copper tubing. The tubing is 1/2"OD and chrome plated.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice


----------



## Archea47

That's positively beautiful, @NavyChief, congratulations!

Did you use pre-Chromed supply line or have the pipe chromed after bending


----------



## NavyChief

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> That's positively beautiful, @NavyChief, congratulations!
> 
> Did you use pre-Chromed supply line or have the pipe chromed after bending


Thanks! I had it chromed after bending.


----------



## rakunSA

I'm about to find some pipe, and I can't figure out a couple of things:

I've seen a few types, Type M, L, ACR, and K. Which one is best for watercooling and bending? I think I read that type M kinks easily?

Also what's the deal with soft, hard, and semihard? If we live in the US, it's quite expensive to get that Kwik straightener tool. So I'm wondering what people have been doing.

If I have a pipe bender and cutter only, and plan to go with 1/2 x 3/8 pipe, which kind should I get? And where should I get it? I'm planning on using max 15 ft.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## EpicOtis13

Hey guys, I need to bend some 1/2" copper tubing for my new build Richard V.4, and I was wondering where I should purchase my tubing bender.
Thanks,
Otis


----------



## Jakerz

Depending on how much you want to spend, Home Depot has Ridgid benders on their website that are really nice, but they cost around $100. 1/2 is larger than most of the cheap benders will do though, so maybe Ebay for a cheaper one?

Jake


----------



## Mad Monk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> They are rotary for a reason. compress outside the case and then spin the rotary part into the water block, radiator etc. Bneg, I understand and respect your knowledge and experience but really the koolance fittings are super easy to use. If you change a block or whatever you need to rebend the tubing anyway, so really the .50 cent ferrule isn't a big deal.


kgtuning,

Good day to you.

I apologize for the delay in responding.

I am starting to acquire the tools necessary to straighten and bend soft copper tubing. The concept is to pick up a few various fitting and learn by doing before I apply this to a build. I appreciate the time and effort for you to share what you know here. Somewhere in all of that is picking up the odds and ends needful to air pressure test a cooling system before adding water. Just a wee bit overwhelmed with what is needful to start this journey.









Long way around to get to an important point for me; Thank you.

Cheers


----------



## Mad Monk

Hi all,

A question please.

I want to go copper in a Case Labs case.

If I use the grommet material why do I need to use a pass through connector?

On reread - make the pass through hole large enough to use the grommet material and not use pass through fittings.

Cheers,


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Monk*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> A question please.
> 
> I want to go copper in a Case Labs case.
> 
> If I use the grommet material why do I need to use a pass through connector?
> 
> On reread - make the pass through hole large enough to use the grommet material and not use pass through fittings.
> 
> Cheers,


If you want to use the existing holes then you do not need pass through fittings. Its all a matter of preference in my opinion.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> If you want to use the existing holes then you do not need pass through fittings. Its all a matter of preference in my opinion.


Yep

Check out Grabrielzm's s5 Grey Matter build - he does hard line through the mid plate with very close fitting grommets


----------



## Mad Monk

Kgtuning and Archea47,

Thank you.

Cheers,


----------



## rakunSA

I just bought a ridgid 408 pipe bender and am getting this on some of my bends. I feel like it's something I'm doing, instead of the bender as I'm not always getting these wrinkles.



Also I've noticed that when I cut the pipe, the ends tend to pinch, or curve inward. Is it because I'm tightening the cutter too quickly?


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes but if you apply pressure smoothly and evenly you should see better results.









~Ceadder


----------



## rakunSA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes but if you apply pressure smoothly and evenly you should see better results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's hard applying pressure evenly during the bend. Once it starts to bend, it goes so quickly. I guess I could try sticking the bend in a vice and then using both hands to control the other arm. So no need for sand or anything? Do I need to lube the bender?


----------



## Ceadderman

Which bender are you using? Have you tried using a heat gun to warm up the area of the bend?









~Ceadder


----------



## rakunSA

Ridgid 408. Nope, do I need to with soft copper? I think I got type L. I don't have a heat gun but I've been in search of one as I need one for sleeving purposes....


----------



## Jakerz

I've seen people use a bar of soap on the tubing before bending it to give the bender some lubrication, may help with getting smoother at it.

Just a thought,
Jake


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> Ridgid 408. Nope, do I need to with soft copper? I think I got type L. I don't have a heat gun but I've been in search of one as I need one for sleeving purposes....


I have the same bender, you can try some sort of lube on the shoe and former but you should not need anything. But can you verify that you are using 1/2" OD type L?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> Ridgid 408. Nope, do I need to with soft copper? I think I got type L. I don't have a heat gun but I've been in search of one as I need one for sleeving purposes....


Home Depot has a reasonable 12.5 amp unit for about $22. I would suggest that.

As for rigid tubing, it's much harder to bend than the softer copper tubing. You could probably get some from HD as well but if you're going to stick with what you have then I would definitely suggest the Heatgun and/or some form of lube applied to the tubing to see if that addresses your issues.









~Ceadder


----------



## rakunSA

I'm using this pipe: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerro-3-8-in-ID-x-20-ft-Copper-Type-L-Soft-Coil-1-2-in-OD-PCLE-375L020/203654406

I measured it and it is 1/2" OD. It is tough to apply even pressure when using one hand on each bar though.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> I'm using this pipe: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerro-3-8-in-ID-x-20-ft-Copper-Type-L-Soft-Coil-1-2-in-OD-PCLE-375L020/203654406
> 
> I measured it and it is 1/2" OD. It is tough to apply even pressure when using one hand on each bar though.


I have the exact tubing and bender. Even pressure is the key.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> I'm using this pipe: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerro-3-8-in-ID-x-20-ft-Copper-Type-L-Soft-Coil-1-2-in-OD-PCLE-375L020/203654406
> 
> I measured it and it is 1/2" OD. It is tough to apply even pressure when using one hand on each bar though.


Try half-hard with a 10" bender - I have to positively Stand on the thing to get the pipe to bend










I'm loving the Aquatuning push fits. The black nickel finish must be a thinner coat than the bright nickel though - without sanding the pipe is very hard to insert the tube into the Chinese fingertrap style locks


----------



## rakunSA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I have the exact tubing and bender. Even pressure is the key.


K i tried it again. I also used some soap. Much better results:


Granted, I still have just a little right here:


I assume its from when I had to shift my position when I was bending past 90. It's hard to see unless you're at the right angle, but realistically, it's on the back side. If I have copper left over, I'll prob redo the piece. For now, I'm satisfied.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> I just bought a ridgid 408 pipe bender and am getting this on some of my bends. I feel like it's something I'm doing, instead of the bender as I'm not always getting these wrinkles.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Also I've noticed that when I cut the pipe, the ends tend to pinch, or curve inward.* Is it because I'm tightening the cutter too quickly?


That is normal,you should get a small amount on inward rolling.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> K i tried it again. I also used some soap. Much better results:
> 
> 
> Granted, I still have just a little right here:
> 
> 
> I assume its from when I had to shift my position when I was bending past 90. It's hard to see unless you're at the right angle, but realistically, it's on the back side. If I have copper left over, I'll prob redo the piece. For now, I'm satisfied.


Sorry I'm on mobile and can't do spoilers... Looks great!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> K i tried it again. I also used some soap. Much better results:


Liquid or bar soap?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> K i tried it again. I also used some soap. Much better results:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granted, I still have just a little right here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I assume its from when I had to shift my position when I was bending past 90. It's hard to see unless you're at the right angle, but realistically, it's on the back side. If I have copper left over, I'll prob redo the piece. For now, I'm satisfied.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm on mobile and can't do spoilers... Looks great!
Click to expand...

If your phone has bracks in the symbols menu then you can. [Spoiler)

Just add a forward slash to the endING tag.









I put them in by hand on my Galaxy. Which I am currently using.









~Ceadder


----------



## rakunSA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Liquid or bar soap?


liquid soap. didnt have bar soap


----------



## RnRollie

Ok, i AM a bit lagging behind on whats happening in the world... and its the first time i saw this thing, thus i am a bit amped up ... so, i think that this Kwix UK straightener should be in "useful tools on the first page"


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmm would be good for Hardliners tubing for marking Radius marking too.









~Ceadder


----------



## coreykh25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Ok, i AM a bit lagging behind on whats happening in the world... and its the first time i saw this thing, thus i am a bit amped up ... so, i think that this Kwix UK straightener should be in "useful tools on the first page"


I was just about to come and suggest this. The Kwix UK Straightener is the best straightener for hard tubing that I have come across so far. Definitely worthy of being on the useful tools page.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreykh25*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Ok, i AM a bit lagging behind on whats happening in the world... and its the first time i saw this thing, thus i am a bit amped up ... so, i think that this Kwix UK straightener should be in "useful tools on the first page"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was just about to come and suggest this. The Kwix UK Straightener is the best straightener for hard tubing that I have come across so far. Definitely worthy of being on the useful tools page.
Click to expand...

Agreed,I have the 12 and 10mm versions,I will take some pics and add them to the first post.


----------



## Archea47

Check it out - PPCs now stocks the AquaTuning/Phobya pushfits! (I wonder who asked for them







) . These are the same fittings BNEG recommended toward the beginning of this thread

http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors

Those are the fittings I'm using on my build as well

I was having a real hard time getting the pipe to insert into and especially remove from the nickel (not black nickel - those are fine) plated fittings. I found last night that I can remove them by putting a 10mm wrench around the pipe and using that wrench to push against the fitting, keeping the finger-trap style clasp fully seated. Still takes a fair amount of force


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Check it out - PPCs now stocks the AquaTuning/Phobya pushfits! (I wonder who asked for them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) . These are the same fittings BNEG recommended toward the beginning of this thread
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors
> 
> Those are the fittings I'm using on my build as well
> 
> I was having a real hard time getting the pipe to insert into and especially remove from the nickel (not black nickel - those are fine) plated fittings. I found last night that I can remove them by putting a 10mm wrench around the pipe and using that wrench to push against the fitting, keeping the finger-trap style clasp fully seated. Still takes a fair amount of force


They do require a bit of a shove but they seal and lock like a champ!


----------



## gdubc

Some new stainless fittings on the way soon. Will be available for metric as well as standard tube sizes. Yum yums.




http://mnpctech.com/pc-computer-alphacool-ek-bitspower-hardwarelabs-heatkiller-liquid-cooling/pc-hard-line-fittings-compression-coolant-line-radiator-cpu-gpu-reservoire/overkill-g1-4-thread-3-8-id-x-1-2-od-hardline-compression-fitting-316-stainless-steel.html?desktop=


----------



## Jakerz

WOW, those look awesome! let us know when they get in stock!

Jake


----------



## Archea47

gdubc does the fitting grab the pipe at all or just crush the oring to the pipe for sealing?

Fun with the AT/Phobya pushfits (now at PPCs as well):


I used pipe from coppertubingsales.com and polished with Nevrdull wadding


----------



## gdubc

They just look like they are a typical push fit to me. Nice to see another option available, with the mix of sizes to boot. 316 stainless steel, made in Minneapolis by Mnpctech. They put out a lot of products. I went there looking for some colored anodized rad screws when I stumbled upon them.






Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ceadderman

Wonder if they intend to put Brass pushfits out also.









Cause those would look Uber smexy with Copper tubing. Steel pushfits look nice aND I will glom onto some if that's all there is. But Brass would be the way to go for me.









~Ceadder


----------



## ccRicers

This post mostly to provide inform someone else using metal tubing for his build, but I will post this here since it might help others in this thread.

The build owner (thread here) bought some lengths of chrome tubing from Home Depot. This got me curious because I want to go back to attempt metal tubing but having it pre-chromed could save me some time.

He won't able to work on them for a few weeks, so I decided to experiment on my own. I recently got two of the cheapest 1/2" chrome-plated copper tubes that are sold at Home Depot, and posting my results from bending them.

The two that I bought are faucet supply lines, from a link in that build log. They're from two different brands, BrassCraft and Homewerks Worldwide. They're both 20" long so it didn't give me a lot of room for many bends, but they were good enough for the experiment.

I used a Ridgid 398 tube bender for 1/2" tube. This could be bought used for under $40. One of the tubes (HomeWerks) was ordered online, it arrived somewhat bent. Though it wouldn't matter much here.



I put the two side by side to compare wall thickness. The BrassCraft tube has the thicker wall (left). HomeWerks, on the other hand, has a more polished finish and plating is a bit brighter in comparison. The BrassCraft tube is somewhat duller and the plating is a bit darker when placed next to the other tube, though it's hardly noticeable otherwise.



I expect the BrassCraft to hold up better for bends. The HomeWerks tube is thinner, walls are just under 1mm thick.

Now for the results from bending. Sorry these pictures didn't come out as sharp.
I cut both tubes into two pieces, then first bent the BrassCraft tube. The bends were mostly smooth though that is partly because I needed to grip the lever better to bend it. But with enough practice bends this tube is very workable. I'm pretty satisfied with the results.




One other thing- the clamping hook that holds the tube was biting a little too close to the tube, and pushed all the way it would make a "bite mark" denting that area next the the tube being bent. I just had to ease off on the hook a bit, and this will vary depending on the bending tool you use.

Bending the HomeWerks tube produced underwhelming results. It took a bit less effort to form the bends, but there is way too much outward flaring on the outside diameter. It is much more susceptible to uneven pressure so there are kinks and wrinkles on the inside of the bend.




So as I expected, the HomeWerks tube did worse due to its thinner wall. For me, this tube failed the test while BrassCraft's tube passed. I was bending both of them on a whim since they won't be used for a water cooling loop, but I should have consistently better results with the BrassCraft tube. I'm going to buy 3-foot lengths when I'm doing this for an actual build- hopefully they are from the same stock as the tubing I used here.


----------



## Ceadderman

Good to know. +Rep for the review. OP should add BrassCraft tubing as reliable to first post.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Thanks for the results,Im glad you took the time to share.


----------



## Eusbwoa18

I'm on the same path @ccRicers. But like an idiot I picked up some EK fittings in 12mm before I realized that 1/2" pipe would need a 13mm fitting. Can't find 12mm tubing here in the US to save my life, even mcmaster said no.

Has anyone tried these:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-ht-13mm-compression-fitting-g1-4-for-plexi-brass-tubes-knurled-chrome.html

for a copper tube build?

or have a source for 12mm plated tubing in the US?

Open to other suggestions....

Thanks in advance!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> This post mostly to provide inform someone else using metal tubing for his build, but I will post this here since it might help others in this thread.
> 
> The build owner (thread here) bought some lengths of chrome tubing from Home Depot. This got me curious because I want to go back to attempt metal tubing but having it pre-chromed could save me some time.
> <>
> Bending the HomeWerks tube produced underwhelming results. It took a bit less effort to form the bends, but there is way too much outward flaring on the outside diameter. It is much more susceptible to uneven pressure so there are kinks and wrinkles on the inside of the bend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So as I expected, the HomeWerks tube did worse due to its thinner wall. For me, this tube failed the test while BrassCraft's tube passed. I was bending both of them on a whim since they won't be used for a water cooling loop, but I should have consistently better results with the BrassCraft tube. I'm going to buy 3-foot lengths when I'm doing this for an actual build- hopefully they are from the same stock as the tubing I used here.


----------



## ccRicers

I have bought 10 of the Alphacool fittings before but never actually used them in a water cool build XD That was back when I had more problems with bending copper tube so I skipped on the idea and sold them. Alternatively you can order 1/2" fittings from Rocket Science. Guy found the store for the exact reason you have, he wanted 1/2" fittings for metal tubing. They cost a bit extra but looks like they have the same Bitspower build and quality.

With the Alphacool fittings I only did a test fit with some bare soft copper tube of the same diameter. They had a bit of "wiggle" to them when inserted all the way and with collar screwed in and I didn't know how to feel about that. Didn't fill it with water to leak test.

12mm plated tubing is extremely hard to find in the US I think. US residents usually take pride in being able to order just about anything they need for reasonable prices but looks like 12mm chrome plated tube is out for us







First PC parts store to sell it in the US might move a lot of that stuff.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I have bought 10 of the Alphacool fittings before but never actually used them in a water cool build XD That was back when I had more problems with bending copper tube so I skipped on the idea and sold them. Alternatively you can order 1/2" fittings from Rocket Science. Guy found the store for the exact reason you have, he wanted 1/2" fittings for metal tubing. They cost a bit extra but looks like they have the same Bitspower build and quality.
> 
> With the Alphacool fittings I only did a test fit with some bare soft copper tube of the same diameter. They had a bit of "wiggle" to them when inserted all the way and with collar screwed in and I didn't know how to feel about that. Didn't fill it with water to leak test.
> 
> 12mm plated tubing is extremely hard to find in the US I think. US residents usually take pride in being able to order just about anything they need for reasonable prices but looks like 12mm chrome plated tube is out for us
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First PC parts store to sell it in the US might move a lot of that stuff.


So those koolance cu13's come with 13mm ferrules, a few of us went and bought 1/2" ferrules from home depot that dropped right in.


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Good info! Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> So those koolance cu13's come with 13mm ferrules, a few of us went and bought 1/2" ferrules from home depot that dropped right in.


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Also, I had a similar experience with the HomeWerks tube from home depot. Did not bend well at all.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> Good info! Thanks!


No problem. I believe they are Watts A-202, as soon as I get home I'll verify that.


----------



## rakunSA

What is the recommended sealant you guys are using for those that aren't plating their copper. From what I've read, the copper still oxidizes or patinas under the sealant. Wondering if you guys have found some magical sealant that will work for at least 2-3 years. Unless it's something that I'm just gonna have to redo every year. I def dont want to rebend new copper every year though lol


----------



## housefly88

This may or may not be helpful : )
I have several Aquacomputer AMS full copper. I polished them and sprayed them with a clear lacquer. Basically still pretty after several years. should work better on copper pipe, as there isn't much surface area compared to a single full copper rad.
.. and yes I know spraying my rads can hurt perfoamce and temps.. But kinda irrelevant with all the rad space used.


----------



## rakunSA

Dang makes me want to switch my AMS to an AMS copper









Was it just any lacquer spray? Maybe the oxidation underneath wont be nearly as bad since the parts stay inside the house. That does look nice. How did you polish all the fins and everything and ensure that every fin was coated?

I was doing some research and found a few options: everbrite, protectaclear, and permalac. Any experience or knowledge of these?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> What is the recommended sealant you guys are using for those that aren't plating their copper. From what I've read, the copper still oxidizes or patinas under the sealant. Wondering if you guys have found some magical sealant that will work for at least 2-3 years. Unless it's something that I'm just gonna have to redo every year. I def dont want to rebend new copper every year though lol


Sealant? Seems like a waste imho. A good can of NvrDull is what I use to take care of my bright work and it protects metal from the elements. We used it on all our bright work when I was in the Navy stationed on the Wisconsin. Our Captains Gig had to look spiffy for the CO otherwise we pull extra duty. Takes only a few minutes of work to keep it shiny enough to see yourself in. Want better results use a ScotchBrite green pad and run it the length of your runs a few times before the NvrDull dries and boy are you in for a surprise as to how easy it is to keep that copper bright. If it can handle cleaning seawater off dull surfaces I know it can handle a watercooling loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## rakunSA

So clean the pipes first with standard white vinegar and salt and use nitrile gloves first. And then polish with the NevrDull and a scotchbrite pad?


----------



## Ceadderman

I just use NvrDull and a green pad. Wipe off the haze with a soft cloth or paper towel. Similar to what you would do with car polish.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> Dang makes me want to switch my AMS to an AMS copper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was it just any lacquer spray? Maybe the oxidation underneath wont be nearly as bad since the parts stay inside the house. That does look nice. How did you polish all the fins and everything and ensure that every fin was coated?
> 
> I was doing some research and found a few options: everbrite, protectaclear, and permalac. Any experience or knowledge of these?


Wax rub. Or clear lacquer.

Oxidization is only really an issue if you handle the pipe with bare hands,polish and wear gloves.

Looks good tho neh?


----------



## housefly88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> Dang makes me want to switch my AMS to an AMS copper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was it just any lacquer spray? Maybe the oxidation underneath wont be nearly as bad since the parts stay inside the house. That does look nice. How did you polish all the fins and everything and ensure that every fin was coated?
> 
> I was doing some research and found a few options: everbrite, protectaclear, and permalac. Any experience or knowledge of these?


Honestly first time using the full copper they went dark on me.
Dissembled them to just the core, and soaked for mabye 30 min in a storage bin with 2 gallons of white vinegar and some salt. Only used two gal because it was but on get one free and was easier to lay the 480 flat in a plastic bin. No scrubbing needed. After roughly 30 min (didn't time it) I washed in warm water really well. Used air compressor to blow it dry, and then used some rustolem crystal clear lacquer. Sprayed it on light first coat, hit it again 15 min later a bit on the heavy side. The stainless end panels will keep the fins from touching any surface (under the derlin end caps) let dry for 24 hours, (prob could have reassembled sooner but didn't have time and wasn't in hurry) then reassemble.

I decided to use the white viniger / salt method as polish isn't much of an option on radiator fins : ) so I knew I had to submerge the entire 480,360,240 to make it even. Figured if the viniger didn't work, i could go a different route and only $10.00 in supplies.


----------



## Ironsmack

Well, i just saw this on Dazmode... any takers??

https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/copper-metal-hard-tube-1012mm-chrome-490mm/


----------



## Ceadderman

Very cool. But is that 490mm from end to end or is it sectioned?









~Ceadder


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Very cool. But is that 490mm from end to end or is it sectioned?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


From what I understand, its end to end. There are other sizes:

https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/hard-tubes/


----------



## zenonza

Hi everyone, sorry if this has already been asked but I am new and this is my first post! I would like to *bend* hard copper tubing for my new build (not use fittings to create the bends as little as possible) and was wondering which is better to use and which is generally a better product:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-none-chamfer-brass-link-tubing-od12mm-shining-silver-length-300-mm.html

OR

http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-hardtube-13-10mm-brass-chrome-finish-20cm.html

I am aware that I need to look at the size of the fittings to fit the piping. Appreciate your input!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenonza*
> 
> Hi everyone, sorry if this has already been asked but I am new and this is my first post! I would like to *bend* hard copper tubing for my new build (not use fittings to create the bends as little as possible) and was wondering which is better to use and which is generally a better product:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-none-chamfer-brass-link-tubing-od12mm-shining-silver-length-300-mm.html
> 
> OR
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-hardtube-13-10mm-brass-chrome-finish-20cm.html
> 
> I am aware that I need to look at the size of the fittings to fit the piping. Appreciate your input!


Neither,brass is not material for bending.


----------



## zenonza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Neither,brass is not material for bending.


Thanks a lot for reply. Ok will have a look at right angle fittings, same colour silver should fit in nicely


----------



## staccker

in the last couple of pages i have seen people working with stainless now but how does that work with nickel or copper blocks? anything unsual that needs to be looked out for besides the price of the SS pipes


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staccker*
> 
> in the last couple of pages i have seen people working with stainless now but how does that work with nickel or copper blocks? anything unsual that needs to be looked out for besides the price of the SS pipes


Stainless is fine for use in jet plates and block covers,the potential changes with increased surface area but it has been done many times now with no reported ill effects


----------



## staccker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Stainless is fine for use in jet plates and block covers,the potential changes with increased surface area but it has been done many times now with no reported ill effects


cool thanks!

I found this place in ohio that makes 316 SS in 12mm OD. I am gonna give them a call tomorrow to see how their pricing is.

Parker Steel Company

Also this place has 304 SS in 12mm OD which is fairly inexpensive.

OnlineMetals.com

It seems better safe then sorry between using 304 vs 316 SS due to the possible corrosion with 304 SS?


----------



## Solonowarion

So on the first post there are links to onlinemetals c101 and c102. 101 has a thicker wall but 201 says its for water. For our uses it doesn't matter I'm assuming? Also curious if anyone's used these guys yet and how bending the straight stuff is


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> This post mostly to provide inform someone else using metal tubing for his build, but I will post this here since it might help others in this thread.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The build owner (thread here) bought some lengths of chrome tubing from Home Depot. This got me curious because I want to go back to attempt metal tubing but having it pre-chromed could save me some time.
> 
> He won't able to work on them for a few weeks, so I decided to experiment on my own. I recently got two of the cheapest 1/2" chrome-plated copper tubes that are sold at Home Depot, and posting my results from bending them.
> 
> The two that I bought are faucet supply lines, from a link in that build log. They're from two different brands, BrassCraft and Homewerks Worldwide. They're both 20" long so it didn't give me a lot of room for many bends, but they were good enough for the experiment.
> 
> I used a Ridgid 398 tube bender for 1/2" tube. This could be bought used for under $40. One of the tubes (HomeWerks) was ordered online, it arrived somewhat bent. Though it wouldn't matter much here.
> 
> 
> 
> I put the two side by side to compare wall thickness. The BrassCraft tube has the thicker wall (left). HomeWerks, on the other hand, has a more polished finish and plating is a bit brighter in comparison. The BrassCraft tube is somewhat duller and the plating is a bit darker when placed next to the other tube, though it's hardly noticeable otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you notice any crazing on the inside bends? Also did you get the brasscraft from in store? I went to my local store and most were all bent which I aint going to accept if I buy online and the store said they dont carry 1/2 inch.
> 
> I expect the BrassCraft to hold up better for bends. The HomeWerks tube is thinner, walls are just under 1mm thick.
> 
> Now for the results from bending. Sorry these pictures didn't come out as sharp.
> I cut both tubes into two pieces, then first bent the BrassCraft tube. The bends were mostly smooth though that is partly because I needed to grip the lever better to bend it. But with enough practice bends this tube is very workable. I'm pretty satisfied with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One other thing- the clamping hook that holds the tube was biting a little too close to the tube, and pushed all the way it would make a "bite mark" denting that area next the the tube being bent. I just had to ease off on the hook a bit, and this will vary depending on the bending tool you use.
> 
> Bending the HomeWerks tube produced underwhelming results. It took a bit less effort to form the bends, but there is way too much outward flaring on the outside diameter. It is much more susceptible to uneven pressure so there are kinks and wrinkles on the inside of the bend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So as I expected, the HomeWerks tube did worse due to its thinner wall. For me, this tube failed the test while BrassCraft's tube passed. I was bending both of them on a whim since they won't be used for a water cooling loop, but I should have consistently better results with the BrassCraft tube. I'm going to buy 3-foot lengths when I'm doing this for an actual build- hopefully they are from the same stock as the tubing I used here.


Hey so was there any crazing with the bend? In the inside or anywhere? I need to decide to either go this route or the route of nickeling myself/powder coating as im not paying 500 dollars for chroming especially seeing how I will be redoing the rig a few months after doing the metal tube.

Also has anyone tried using the nickel copper tube at Mcmaster-carr. It says bend with a bending tool and from the pics I have seen looks like straight nickel.Scracth that that stuff is priceyyyyyy.

Edit: Also found this here https://deabath.com/Stop_Valves_and_supply_lines/stop_valves_and_supply_lines.html look at the very bottom its a little pricey (#39 for 36 inches) but maybe its higher quality chrome plating so it wont crack or craze.


----------



## pwn1e

awesome bro !


----------



## emsj86

Has anyone used the bits power power chrome brass tubing. Wanted to see if possible could it be bent. I would need only one bend but at the same time don't want it to look like crap either.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Has anyone used the bits power power chrome brass tubing. Wanted to see if possible could it be bent. I would need only one bend but at the same time don't want it to look like crap either.


ya literally on the last page (prior to your post) someone asked about the bits and the alphacool tubes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Neither, brass is not material for bending.


----------



## emsj86

Thanks that's my mistake for not reading that prior to asking.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Thanks that's my mistake for not reading that prior to asking.


Its cool just messing with ya


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> From what I understand, its end to end. There are other sizes:
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/hard-tubes/


Now these prices look more reasonable. Too bad my bender is for 1/2" tube and not 12mm and for these applications every mm counts.


----------



## emsj86

Now being hard copper wouldn't it crease/kink skittle when bent. I know when I run copper at work everyday that to get a good bend in hard copper I need to heat than kneel the copper. (Heating just thins the walls out per say to pretty much give a soft copper bend). I wonder if I could make my 1/2 bender work with this. I really want chrome copper but the price rage to have it plated turns me off (at least for now )


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> From what I understand, its end to end. There are other sizes:
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/hard-tubes/
> 
> 
> 
> Now these prices look more reasonable. Too bad my bender is for 1/2" tube and not 12mm and for these applications every mm counts.
Click to expand...

Darkside smarkside. Can't believe their audacity to straight up copy the Monsoon bending kit and make the mandrels of cheap plastic. Sorry to offend anyone but that's just straight doo doo. I wouldn't have a problem if they hadn't used Monsoon's layout to make them. There are other ways of laying out those Mandrels that don't straight up copy how they are mounted to the table and how they look. At least they didn't make them of metal and anodize them.









~Ceadder


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Darkside smarkside. Can't believe their audacity to straight up copy the Monsoon bending kit and make the mandrels of cheap plastic. Sorry to offend anyone but that's just straight doo doo. I wouldn't have a problem if they hadn't used Monsoon's layout to make them. There are other ways of laying out those Mandrels that don't straight up copy how they are mounted to the table and how they look. At least they didn't make them of metal and anodize them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Intimation is the sincerest form of flattery. Maybe Gene wouldn't let them be a re seller ? so they had to craft there own. Darkside is Dazmodes house brand btw, if you didn't know.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Darkside smarkside. Can't believe their audacity to straight up copy the Monsoon bending kit and make the mandrels of cheap plastic. Sorry to offend anyone but that's just straight doo doo. I wouldn't have a problem if they hadn't used Monsoon's layout to make them. There are other ways of laying out those Mandrels that don't straight up copy how they are mounted to the table and how they look. At least they didn't make them of metal and anodize them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Intimation is the sincerest form of flattery*. Maybe Gene wouldn't let them be a re seller ? so they had to craft there own. Darkside is Dazmodes house brand btw, if you didn't know.
Click to expand...

Well that's cool, but I find it kind of insulting tbh. Especially when they could have made their own design from the same material they copied for. It's not *that* difficult to design a different look. Not even on Google Sketch. Shoot they could make a 180 mandrel using a square shape over that of a U shape.

So if Darkside is in house Daz Mode, why does PPCs' carry it?









~Ceadder


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well that's cool, but I find it kind of insulting tbh. Especially when they could have made their own design from the same material they copied for. It's not *that* difficult to design a different look. Not even on Google Sketch. Shoot they could make a 180 mandrel using a square shape over that of a U shape.
> 
> So if Darkside is in house Daz Mode, why does PPCs' carry it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Because Daz's sells to other retailers I know its strange all the WCing house brands do that though. Lots of people sell Mod My Toys even FCPU did and that is PPC's house brand.

Also dont know about a square 180 lol, I think this might be a Apple vs Samsung situation here just a little. At the end of the day though the monsoons are metal and that makes them stronger and longer lasting and superior.

That said as well, I think its like a TT vs CL situation no one that wants a high quality mandrel for many builds will buy the junk. Nobody that only does a build every few years will spend 50. They are completely different price brackets and I do not think that they will affect each other.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Nah, a square bending jig makes complete sense.

Guess all of industry is copying Monsoon with their revolutionary design
http://www.metalcraftusa.com/tubecoformks.html

We should have had square res after the first round one was made too, and oblong fittings, and triangle radiators, and hexagon fans.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Nah, a square bending jig makes complete sense.
> 
> Guess all of industry is copying Monsoon with their revolutionary design
> http://www.metalcraftusa.com/tubecoformks.html
> 
> We should have had square res after the first round one was made too, and oblong fittings, and triangle radiators, and hexagon fans.


HA I knew I seen other jigs that looked a lot like monsoons that were for metal (and where around before monsoons) but I couldn't find any so I didn't want to put my foot in my mouth in case I was wrong.

I honestly dont think that there is anything wrong with monsoon or dark side making them like this. Kinda the only way it could be made IMO. Thats why I said Apple vs Sammy here, a rectangle with round corners.

I do see a major flaw with Darksides though, they are made from PVC and PVCs melting point (or malleable point) is half that of acrylic(140F vs 240F Malleable/160F vs 320F Melting). I would think if you are not very careful you may deform that mandrel while using it.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> HA I knew I seen other jigs that looked a lot like monsoons that were for metal (and where around before monsoons) but I couldn't find any so I didn't want to put my foot in my mouth in case I was wrong.
> 
> I honestly dont think that there is anything wrong with monsoon or dark side making them like this. Kinda the only way it could be made IMO. Thats why I said Apple vs Sammy here, a rectangle with round corners.
> 
> I do see a major flaw with Darksides though, they are made from PVC and PVCs melting point (or malleable point) is half that of acrylic(140F vs 240F Malleable/160F vs 320F Melting). I would think if you are not very careful you may deform that mandrel while using it.


I think it should be pretty safe. We are a long way from melt point when bending tubing and plastic doesn't transfer heat great. Obviously they won't be as durable as metal in the long run, and you wouldn't want to have the heat gun on them directly.
I'm just waiting for the right size to come in stock here and I'll give em a go. As much as I have said that jigs were unnecessary, if they are cheap enough why not.


----------



## jincuteguy

So if I buy the 12mm Chrome Plated copper tube to bend for my loop, can I use those tubings with the Bitspower 12mm Enhance hardline fittings? thx.

And what is this cutter that he was using? Like the brand?
And was he using Chrome plated copper tubing? Or copper with PVC coating?



And is there a benefit of using PETG tubing over these Chrome plated copper tubing? I don't see a lot of ppl using these chrome plated copper tubing, most of them are just using
either Acrylic or PeTG tubing.

Any info would be appreciated, thx.


----------



## Ceadderman

True.

However uninformed buyers will generally settle for the cheaper option 99.99999% of the time.

The Monsoon mandrel are $35 by themselves iirc.









~Ceadder


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> True.
> 
> However uninformed buyers will generally settle for the cheaper option 99.99999% of the time.
> 
> The Monsoon mandrel are $35 by themselves iirc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Are you talking to me?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Are you talking to me?


No he isnt, in answer to a few of your questions. Yes you can bend it however it is hard to bend pre chormee tubing, its easier to bend regular copper then send it out to have it chromed (albeit it cost more)

Yes the bits power fittings will work.

I do not know the brand but its just a basic copper tube cutter.

Yes it was chrome plated, I don't think you get can get PVC coating that is silver I would stay away from PVC coated anyway.

Is there any advantages to PETG/Acrylic, well ya as there is advantages the other direction.

Copper advantages -

slower liquid dissipation (copper doesn't allow air to escape or water acrylic and petg does)
Longer life, its more durable and will last in defiantly if taken care of properly.

Copper disadvantages -
Price, this is one reason people use the others copper is a lot more expensive, especially if you get it chromed after.
Difficulty - it requires special high dollar tools to bend copper, it is also difficult to do and master, petg/acrylic only needs heated and then bends like taffy.

That's just a quick few reasons and should give you an idea.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> True.
> 
> However uninformed buyers will generally settle for the cheaper option 99.99999% of the time.
> 
> The Monsoon mandrel are $35 by themselves iirc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


"uninformed buyers" are exactly what I was saying though, Joe Schmo that wants to do 1 Acrylic build every 4 years isn't going to spend 40+ dollars (there 40 when I just checked and then shipping makes them about 50) on some mandrels. He will bend it freehand or he will use bottle caps ect. That is where Darkside comes into play 12 dollars for a few mandrels is justifiable 50 dollars is not. Enthusiasts justify the 100+ dollars (you need different sizes for different tubes) by the fact we will use them alot more often and them holding up is important to us.

You can see this in any other industry as well, If I need to put up new roofing but it is a 1 time thing I will buy the cheapest nail gun I can find, it may not be as nice or last as long but as long as it works for that job thats fine. However a Carpenter is going to splurge and buy a much nicer one as he uses it everyday, to him it is an investment.

This may make you mad sorry if it does, I wouldn't tell anyone to buy the monsoon ever if they were only doing 1 or 2 builds every 4 years. It simply isn't worth the money. I would go even further to tell them its a complete waste of money in there case and to grab a bottle cap if they want a mandrel as lets be honest that is basically the same thing. 12 dollars is still more than a bottle cap but it is a little easier to justify. To someone like me however that is constantly changes things, and doing numerous builds every year the monsoons are justified and worth the investment.

I am having the same debate about this copper tubing as well. In the case of someone that will build it and forget it this is awesome. To someone like me it is also awesome, however if I have to bend copper and get it chrome plated for 100s of dollars every time a I change something that is not economically ideal. A pre chromed tube would lessen this burden and I am going to try it and fingers crossed it works.


----------



## jincuteguy

Well from what i seen in this 101 guide, it looks alot easier to bend copper with the tool than acrylic/ petg.
Price is not a concern.

And the guy bend the chrome plated copper pipe, so i dont think why i would buy copper and bend it, then get it chrome plated.

Like it looks super easy to bend these chrome plated copper pipe, i just dont get why ppl still go with Petg tubing.

I guess the next trend in watercooling will be copper.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Well from what i seen in this 101 guide, it looks alot easier to bend copper with the tool than acrylic/ petg.
> Price is not a concern.
> 
> And the guy bend the chrome plated copper pipe, so i dont think why i would buy copper and bend it, then get it chrome plated.
> 
> Like it looks super easy to bend these chrome plated copper pipe, i just dont get why ppl still go with Petg tubing.
> 
> I guess the next trend in watercooling will be copper.


I didn't think so lol, Copper has been around before acrylic was, People doing copper builds is what inspired people to do the acrylic thing. After buying a good bending tool ya it is easy to "Bend" the tube to bend it without wrinkles and to the right dimensions is another story.

Even if we take those pre chromed copper tubing at 60 dollars for 20 inches of good stuff thats a whole lot more expensive than PETG. Even then bending that is far from easy, its easier from what I have gathered talking to suppliers and friends that do plumbing. You can buy that cheap home depot stuff and give that shot, However the chrome plating is far from great, most of the tubes are bent (I went to my local store every single one they had was very bent) and when you make 90s it will craze and the copper will begin to flake and it will look terrible.

IF we can find a good source for high quality copper tube that is chrome plated and holds up to bending and is cheap that would be amazing, from what I have seen the home depot stuff isn't that. I am not trying to dissuade you from copper tube its awesome and its unique defiantly go with it. I am just saying if your doing it because you think it will be easier than PETG you are very mistaken, and again the money factor while that may not affect you it affects a lot of people, especially when a nice set of benders is 200+ dollars.

Also I dont know if my store has junk or how he bent that, They had it at my HD and I took one and tried to see how easily I could bend it back to straight, it was easy bent no problem and the chrome cracked right off with it. Copper is made soft to be bent, Chrome is not.


----------



## Ceadderman

@Cyberloc...

I get what you're saying. However...

...A year and a half ago, I was that uninformed buyer. It's just a good thing that Darkside kit wasn't available at the time I got my Monsoon kit. I probably would've got it. But then I wouldn't have sprung for the complete Monsoon kit. Since I am a perfectionist, the Monsoon kit was the best way to go. Heck I almost went with the PrimoChill bending rig but intelligence won out on that decision making process. I have the Red mandrels and will be adding to the kit with a set of Blue mandrels for smaller pipe forming for my friends/customers who would rather have or like the look of smaller tubing. But I agree with you on cheap solutions as well. Bottle caps however are probably not a good solution however(at least here in the states) since they tend to have ridges molded into them and would leave marks in the tubing as the bend is formed prior to cooling. I drink a buttload of Mt. Dew and the caps on those will tear skin off your fingers when you put it in the fridge and take it back out later, due to pressure build up.







lulz

Thread spools are probably a better way to go, or even a couple of wood discs from the local Home Depot.









On the chrome tubing issue...

I fully agree with you that Chrome pipe from a Hardware shop is probably not up for bending. Too easy to crinkle the finish, unless extremely careful with it. For my purposes, copper is the better way to go, I'm not yet doing it however since I've got bit of experience with bending plumbing lines.

Acrylic v PETG...

PETG is better if you're a novice. It's stronger and easier to bend than Acrylic. Acrylic is better for clarity when using clear tubing. But only nominally so. It just looks better. But if you want that kind of clarity, you never woulda got flex tubing to begin with imho. I don't subscribe to JayZ2cents smacking the stuff with a hammer. How many times are you going to be wielding a hammer in your case after all.









I've never used the Glass tubing, so I will not even address it in relation to above. Not sure I would even attempt it unless someone else is footing the bill.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Nah, a square bending jig makes complete sense.
> 
> Guess all of industry is copying Monsoon with their revolutionary design
> http://www.metalcraftusa.com/tubecoformks.html
> 
> We should have had square res after the first round one was made too, and oblong fittings, and triangle radiators, and hexagon fans.


Actually there were and are square Res's available.











I guess however I should have clarified that thougt about a square 180.

Basically it's a rounded corner square. To make a single bend as tightly together as possible, whereas it would be almost impossible to bend using a 45* mandrel. Don't get my wrong. I like the 180 as it is now, but for clearance issues a squared mandrel would fit the bill better than a rounded one.









Oh and only Darkside madrels are copied. I challenge you to find another mandrel kit that looks exactly like a Monsoon kit. No there is no 180 in the Darkside kit but if you painted the Monsoons black, you would not be able to tell the difference from one to the other when mounted on a bench. I don;t see what's so hard to understand and why you feel the need to trivialize my opinion on the matter but okay.









~Ceadder


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I didn't think so lol, Copper has been around before acrylic was, People doing copper builds is what inspired people to do the acrylic thing. After buying a good bending tool ya it is easy to "Bend" the tube to bend it without wrinkles and to the right dimensions is another story.
> 
> Even if we take those pre chromed copper tubing at 60 dollars for 20 inches of good stuff thats a whole lot more expensive than PETG. Even then bending that is far from easy, its easier from what I have gathered talking to suppliers and friends that do plumbing. You can buy that cheap home depot stuff and give that shot, However the chrome plating is far from great, most of the tubes are bent (I went to my local store every single one they had was very bent) and when you make 90s it will craze and the copper will begin to flake and it will look terrible.
> 
> IF we can find a good source for high quality copper tube that is chrome plated and holds up to bending and is cheap that would be amazing, from what I have seen the home depot stuff isn't that. I am not trying to dissuade you from copper tube its awesome and its unique defiantly go with it. I am just saying if your doing it because you think it will be easier than PETG you are very mistaken, and again the money factor while that may not affect you it affects a lot of people, especially when a nice set of benders is 200+ dollars.
> 
> Also I dont know if my store has junk or how he bent that, They had it at my HD and I took one and tried to see how easily I could bend it back to straight, it was easy bent no problem and the chrome cracked right off with it. Copper is made soft to be bent, Chrome is not.


I dont know but looking at this video here 




The guy was bending stainless steel pipe super easy.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I dont know but looking at this video here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The guy was bending stainless steel pipe super easy.


With my rigid bender.. It's definitely not this easy unless you are using thin walled stainless. 1mm wall and up takes some strength.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I dont know but looking at this video here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The guy was bending stainless steel pipe super easy.
> 
> 
> 
> With my rigid bender.. It's definitely not this easy unless you are using thin walled stainless. 1mm wall and up takes some strength.
Click to expand...

Wonder if they have that tool at my local HomeDepot?









Still gonna use PETG for the moment, but it would be nice to have that tool, when the inspiration strikes to go metal.









Having a hard time bending tubing with it? Use a pipe clamp to secure the stationary side of things and use two hands on the other.









~Ceadder


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wonder if they have that tool at my local HomeDepot?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still gonna use PETG for the moment, but it would be nice to have that tool, when the inspiration strikes to go metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having a hard time bending tubing with it? Use a pipe clamp to secure the stationary side of things and use two hands on the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Home depot may, pretty sure they can order one if they don't have it in stock. Actually these benders typically have a reinforced part that you can put into a vice but still it does require a bit of force. I suggest a Swagelock bender with rollers. I'd like to do stainless too. Acetal/ nickel blocks with stainless tubing... Yum.


----------



## jincuteguy

For the cpu block, like the Supremacy EVO from EK, is it better to get the Nickel plated or Copper? Is the Nickel plated still copper with just nickel plated?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> For the cpu block, like the Supremacy EVO from EK, is it better to get the Nickel plated or Copper? Is the Nickel plated still copper with just nickel plated?


Its a matter of preference. The block is identical aside from the added Nickel plating.

The Nickel just looks better to some and it does not tarnish like copper will over time. Copper can always be polished back to full brightness though while if the Nickel is damaged its gone.

I have owned both and prefer to use Nickel. I hated having to polish dull tarnished copper blocks VS just using Nickel friendly coolant and changing out the fluid every 6 to 12 mnths.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its a matter of preference. The block is identical aside from the added Nickel plating.
> 
> The Nickel just looks better to some and it does not tarnish like copper will over time. Copper can always be polished back to full brightness though while if the Nickel is damaged its gone.
> 
> I have owned both and prefer to use Nickel. I hated having to polish dull tarnished copper blocks VS just using Nickel friendly coolant and changing out the fluid every 6 to 12 mnths.


Agreed, I'd rather nickel. Though copper looks pretty nice.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its a matter of preference. The block is identical aside from the added Nickel plating.
> 
> The Nickel just looks better to some and it does not tarnish like copper will over time. Copper can always be polished back to full brightness though while if the Nickel is damaged its gone.
> 
> I have owned both and prefer to use Nickel. I hated having to polish dull tarnished copper blocks VS just using Nickel friendly coolant and changing out the fluid every 6 to 12 mnths.


couldn't you just polish the copper and coat it with a varnish or lacquer?


----------



## jincuteguy

Are those Mayhem Pastel fluids and the X1 fluids are Nickel friendly coolant?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Are those Mayhem Pastel fluids and the X1 fluids are Nickel friendly coolant?


Xt1, and X1 are great for nickel, they are basically just distilled with ethylene glycol (well 1 is the other is a vegetable blend). The biggest key factor to not nickel safe is something that would speed corrosion such as using Copper Sulfate as a biocide in a nickel loop. The fluids you mentioned are corrosion inhibitors so they are better for nickel than running straight distilled.

If you mix metals then your parts will corrode, the extent of which is determined by the metals used. If you don't want to deal with corrosion then don't mix metals if you don't care about it then have at it.(most people don't care about slow corrosion, some do). I would personally advise you use a few as many metals as possible that you can live with. If you dont like the look of copper that is a reason to run Nickel, if you dont want to use a biocide that is a reason to add silver. However I would limit exposure to different metals as much as possible.

To the Pastel fluid, judging by your questions I would assume you are fairly new to water cooling. If that is the case I would not use Pastel fluid, the fluid is fine however it is very finicky and requires a lot of work to do properly and maintain. It requires a fair bit of knowledge to use and maintain correctly, I have seen it many times turn badly for people as they do not know how to handle it properly.

X1 while great is fairly expensive, but if that is okay it is a great fluid.

Other good options would be. Distilled plus additives, The additives could be as simple as a silver coil (I dont like nickel and silver it adds more metals). Another option would be Distilled, Biocide, (careful what kind) and Glycol (corrosion inhibitor). Other Premade fluids Like EKs ect.

Its usually best to avoid dyes and stick with distilled bases, X1 and XT1 are meant to be mixed with distilled they are more additives then actual fluid.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Xt1, and X1 are great for nickel, they are basically just distilled with ethylene glycol (well 1 is the other is a vegetable blend). The biggest key factor to not nickel safe is something that would speed corrosion such as using Copper Sulfate as a biocide in a nickel loop. The fluids you mentioned are corrosion inhibitors so they are better for nickel than running straight distilled.
> 
> If you mix metals then your parts will corrode, the extent of which is determined by the metals used. If you don't want to deal with corrosion then don't mix metals if you don't care about it then have at it.(most people don't care about slow corrosion, some do). I would personally advise you use a few as many metals as possible that you can live with. If you dont like the look of copper that is a reason to run Nickel, if you dont want to use a biocide that is a reason to add silver. However I would limit exposure to different metals as much as possible.
> 
> To the Pastel fluid, judging by your questions I would assume you are fairly new to water cooling. If that is the case I would not use Pastel fluid, the fluid is fine however it is very finicky and requires a lot of work to do properly and maintain. It requires a fair bit of knowledge to use and maintain correctly, I have seen it many times turn badly for people as they do not know how to handle it properly.
> 
> X1 while great is fairly expensive, but if that is okay it is a great fluid.
> 
> Other good options would be. Distilled plus additives, The additives could be as simple as a silver coil (I dont like nickel and silver it adds more metals). Another option would be Distilled, Biocide, (careful what kind) and Glycol (corrosion inhibitor). Other Premade fluids Like EKs ect.
> 
> Its usually best to avoid dyes and stick with distilled bases, X1 and XT1 are meant to be mixed with distilled they are more additives then actual fluid.


Hi, thx for all the infos man. But isn't everything in the system is copper? Radiators are copper or aluminum but Im assumed ppl use copper now aday, who doesn't? And the EK Supremacy EVO cpu block is copper but has nickel plated? which making it still a copper? or am i wrong?

Also, what's knowledge info would be needed for someone new to watercooling to use Pastel fluid? I mean it's just a coolant right? If it's bad, then just drain the system, clean with vinegar + distilled water, then put in new fluid right? what's so hard about it?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> For the cpu block, like the Supremacy EVO from EK, is it better to get the Nickel plated or Copper? Is the Nickel plated still copper with just nickel plated?


Yes. Nickel plating is applied to Copper blocks.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its a matter of preference. The block is identical aside from the added Nickel plating.
> 
> The Nickel just looks better to some and it does not tarnish like copper will over time. Copper can always be polished back to full brightness though while if the Nickel is damaged its gone.
> 
> I have owned both and prefer to use Nickel. I hated having to polish dull tarnished copper blocks VS just using Nickel friendly coolant and changing out the fluid every 6 to 12 mnths.
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed, I'd rather nickel. Though copper looks pretty nice.
Click to expand...

I personally would rather have Copper. Although Nickel plated Copper looks spiffy for those that like their blocks to stand out in the crowd. Personally I want people to look at everything, take it in and be like







"Pretty nice AMD build"







lulz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its a matter of preference. The block is identical aside from the added Nickel plating.
> 
> The Nickel just looks better to some and it does not tarnish like copper will over time. Copper can always be polished back to full brightness though while if the Nickel is damaged its gone.
> 
> I have owned both and prefer to use Nickel. I hated having to polish dull tarnished copper blocks VS just using Nickel friendly coolant and changing out the fluid every 6 to 12 mnths.
> 
> 
> 
> couldn't you just polish the copper and coat it with a varnish or lacquer?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't. As pointed out Copper tarnishes but occasional maintenance to remove the tarnishing with a good metal polish will make everything all shiny and bright again.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Xt1, and X1 are great for nickel, they are basically just distilled with ethylene glycol (well 1 is the other is a vegetable blend). The biggest key factor to not nickel safe is something that would speed corrosion such as using Copper Sulfate as a biocide in a nickel loop. The fluids you mentioned are corrosion inhibitors so they are better for nickel than running straight distilled.
> 
> If you mix metals then your parts will corrode, the extent of which is determined by the metals used. If you don't want to deal with corrosion then don't mix metals if you don't care about it then have at it.(most people don't care about slow corrosion, some do). I would personally advise you use a few as many metals as possible that you can live with. If you dont like the look of copper that is a reason to run Nickel, if you dont want to use a biocide that is a reason to add silver. However I would limit exposure to different metals as much as possible.
> 
> To the Pastel fluid, judging by your questions I would assume you are fairly new to water cooling. If that is the case I would not use Pastel fluid, the fluid is fine however it is very finicky and requires a lot of work to do properly and maintain. It requires a fair bit of knowledge to use and maintain correctly, I have seen it many times turn badly for people as they do not know how to handle it properly.
> 
> X1 while great is fairly expensive, but if that is okay it is a great fluid.
> 
> Other good options would be. Distilled plus additives, The additives could be as simple as a silver coil (I dont like nickel and silver it adds more metals). Another option would be Distilled, Biocide, (careful what kind) and Glycol (corrosion inhibitor). Other Premade fluids Like EKs ect.
> 
> Its usually best to avoid dyes and stick with distilled bases, X1 and XT1 are meant to be mixed with distilled they are more additives then actual fluid.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, thx for all the infos man. But isn't everything in the system is copper? Radiators are copper or aluminum but Im assumed ppl use copper now aday, who doesn't? And the EK Supremacy EVO cpu block is copper but has nickel plated? which making it still a copper? or am i wrong?
> 
> Also, what's knowledge info would be needed for someone new to watercooling to use Pastel fluid? I mean it's just a coolant right? If it's bad, then just drain the system, clean with vinegar + distilled water, then put in new fluid right? what's so hard about it?
Click to expand...

Stay completely away from any Radiator that is Aluminium. They *could* cause Galvanic corrosion due to the mixing of metals. Generally fittings are Brass. Blocks are copper and adding aluminium to your loop could be bad juju. It's best to just avoid any and all uncertainty since there are solid Radiators using copper and Brass available on the market for a reasonable price.









~Ceadder


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Hi, thx for all the infos man. But isn't everything in the system is copper? Radiators are copper or aluminum but Im assumed ppl use copper now aday, who doesn't? And the EK Supremacy EVO cpu block is copper but has nickel plated? which making it still a copper? or am i wrong?
> 
> Also, what's knowledge info would be needed for someone new to watercooling to use Pastel fluid? I mean it's just a coolant right? If it's bad, then just drain the system, clean with vinegar + distilled water, then put in new fluid right? what's so hard about it?


Just because the base of the block is copper is irrelevant, the metal that touches the fluid is what matters. In the case of nickel blocks, the nickel plating touches the fluid not copper.

Fittings come in stainless steel, Brass, Copper. Some Rads use tin solder some use copper some have brass tubes some have copper. Some have aluminum fins with there copper tubes. People put silver in there loops for biocide, there is many metals in a typical loop.

You can however build a solid copper loop and this will prevent corrosion pretty much 100% however it is difficult to pull off and requires lots of studying the parts and getting info.

The problem with the Pastel fluid, is that it is very sensitive to certain metals and to any sort of contamination if your components have even the slightest contamination missed from cleaning it will make the pastel change in color and viscosity rendering it bad.

Yes you could drain it afterwords and buy new however with a mid large sized loop costing about 60-100 dollars to fill with pastel draining it and throwing it away every few months isn't the best idea. That is literally throwing away money XD.

And defiantly do not use Aluminum rads, also try to stay away with rads that use Tin solder if you can.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Hi, thx for all the infos man. But isn't everything in the system is copper? Radiators are copper or aluminum but Im assumed ppl use copper now aday, who doesn't? And the EK Supremacy EVO cpu block is copper but has nickel plated? which making it still a copper? or am i wrong?
> 
> Also, what's knowledge info would be needed for someone new to watercooling to use Pastel fluid? I mean it's just a coolant right? If it's bad, then just drain the system, clean with vinegar + distilled water, then put in new fluid right? what's so hard about it?
> 
> 
> 
> Just because the base of the block is copper is irrelevant, the metal that touches the fluid is what matters. In the case of nickel blocks, the nickel plating touches the fluid not copper.
> 
> Fittings come in stainless steel, Brass, Copper. Some Rads use tin solder some use copper some have brass tubes some have copper. Some have aluminum fins with there copper tubes. People put silver in there loops for biocide, there is many metals in a typical loop.
> 
> You can however build a solid copper loop and this will prevent corrosion pretty much 100% however it is difficult to pull off and requires lots of studying the parts and getting info.
> 
> The problem with the Pastel fluid, is that it is very sensitive to certain metals and to any sort of contamination if your components have even the slightest contamination missed from cleaning it will make the pastel change in color and viscosity rendering it bad.
> 
> Yes you could drain it afterwords and buy new however with a mid large sized loop costing about 60-100 dollars to fill with pastel draining it and throwing it away every few months isn't the best idea. That is literally throwing away money XD.
> 
> And defiantly do not use Aluminum rads, also try to stay away with rads that use Tin solder if you can.
Click to expand...

Good thoughts on the Pastel issue. I use straight distilled no additives, so didn't even think to mention that.

You're also right on the nickel plate contact. However I have heard( CBW) that it's a combination of mixed metals and +/- Ion buildup that helps start Galvanic. I forgot to mention the Ion issue, but regardless of Nickel plate, Electricity gets those Ions pulsing along negatively along those metals. Maybe I'm wording this wrong? If I am I apologize, but I know that Brass and Copper play nice together. It's only when adding a 3rd metal(mainly aluminium) that all havoc cuts loose.









In any case you deserve a +Rep.









~Ceadder


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Good thoughts on the Pastel issue. I use straight distilled no additives, so didn't even think to mention that.
> 
> You're also right on the nickel plate contact. However I have heard( CBW) that it's a combination of mixed metals and +/- Ion buildup that helps start Galvanic. I forgot to mention the Ion issue, but regardless of Nickel plate, Electricity gets those Ions pulsing along negatively along those metals. Maybe I'm wording this wrong? If I am I apologize, but I know that Brass and Copper play nice together. It's only when adding a 3rd metal(mainly aluminium) that all havoc cuts loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In any case you deserve a +Rep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well thank you, and yes they need an Electrolite to cause corrosion, they also have to be in electrical contact thus the IONs like you said.

Aluminum is very far from copper on the galvanic corrosion list that is why it plays havoc







, however silver and nickel are also mildly far from brass (silver is 15, Nickel is 25, copper is 35, Brass is 40, Tin is 65 and aluminium is 75 I believe). Copper and Nickel (silver nickel, there is also copper nickel, silver is what our loops have) will corrode each other just much slower. Brass and Copper will also just very slowly. This can be magnified by salt water however but in our purposes it doesn't matter.

It really comes down to how long do you expect your components to last, Copper and Brass will corrode but they will do it so slowly it will take many years to see anything happening, this can be amplified by stagnant water however. The further they are in the index the faster they will corrode, just stay close in the index or use glycol if your worried. I dont not think that many makers use tin to solder rads anymore (they are brazed now) but I know he did have a HWL rad corrode very badly due to the Tin solder with stagnant water.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Electricity gets those Ions pulsing along negatively along those metals.


Close enough...









In reality though it is the ions that are released by all the metals into your coolant which then allows electricity to flow in your coolant - basically your coolant becomes conductive over time due to the ions and then electricity can flow through your coolant.

When you have different metals in a loop - a potential difference exists between these metals and the then conductive coolant simply joins them all together (similar to a battery actually) allowing electrons to flow between one metal to another. This forms the basis of galvanic corrosion.

The other problem we have these days is that copper is not 100% pure copper in many instances and I would bet that our relatively cheap rads have various metals mixed in with the base copper material - this can allow for galvanic corrosion to take place even while we think we are doing the right thing by utilising 'all copper' components.


----------



## Cyber Locc

I googled a chart to see how close I was. Spoiler I was almost spot on







(nickel is 30 not 25)



If you notice the difference between Silver and Brass is quite large, it is as large as that of aluminium (a certain type of Alu), however the higher numbers of the other Alu's make a bigger difference. This is why I always tell everyone not to use silver in there loops I know a lot of people like to and that is cool but I would avoid it if you can.

However in the case of silver since it is lower in the chart it becomes the sacrificial anode. This is also why we see nickel plating corroding in a brass and nickel loop the nickel will corrode. This makes kill coils okayish but I would stay far away from Silver fittings in a long time use scenario. This is even more maginifed by using a copper barb directly on a copper radiator, then they are in electrical conduct without IONs and that is very bad.

Also Brass and Copper are very close because Brass and Bronze are alloys of copper. One is Copper and Tin (I think Bronze?) and the Other is Copper and Lead I believe something like that. I will google it and edit it in.

I was close,
Bronze is Tin and Copper (mostly copper)
Brass is Zinc and Copper (mostly copper)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I googled a chart to see how close I was. Spoiler I was almost spot on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (nickel is 30 not 25)
> 
> 
> 
> If you notice the difference between Silver and Brass is quite large, it is as large as that of aluminium (a certain type of Alu), however the higher numbers of the other Alu's make a bigger difference. This is why I always tell everyone not to use silver in there loops I know a lot of people like to and that is cool but I would avoid it if you can.
> 
> However in the case of silver since it is lower in the chart it becomes the sacrificial anode. This is also why we see nickel plating corroding in a brass and nickel loop the nickel will corrode. This makes kill coils okayish but I would stay far away from Silver fittings in a long time use scenario. This is even more maginifed by using a copper barb directly on a copper radiator, then they are in electrical conduct without IONs and that is very bad.
> 
> Also Brass and Copper are very close because Brass and Bronze are alloys of copper. One is Copper and Tin (I think Bronze?) and the Other is Copper and Lead I believe something like that. I will google it and edit it in.
> 
> I was close,
> Bronze is Tin and Copper (mostly copper)
> Brass is Zinc and Copper (mostly copper)


Nothing wrong with silver in the loop unless you add the wrong biocide to the coolant. For people like me who use only distilled, it makes no difference whether silver is in the loop or not. Which is why I don't have issues using Monsoon fittings. And as mentioned earlier, Pastels don't react well with certain metals.









Seems like this thread has been effectively derailed.









~Ceadder


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Just because the base of the block is copper is irrelevant, the metal that touches the fluid is what matters. In the case of nickel blocks, the nickel plating touches the fluid not copper.
> 
> Fittings come in stainless steel, Brass, Copper. Some Rads use tin solder some use copper some have brass tubes some have copper. Some have aluminum fins with there copper tubes. People put silver in there loops for biocide, there is many metals in a typical loop.
> 
> You can however build a solid copper loop and this will prevent corrosion pretty much 100% however it is difficult to pull off and requires lots of studying the parts and getting info.
> 
> The problem with the Pastel fluid, is that it is very sensitive to certain metals and to any sort of contamination if your components have even the slightest contamination missed from cleaning it will make the pastel change in color and viscosity rendering it bad.
> 
> Yes you could drain it afterwords and buy new however with a mid large sized loop costing about 60-100 dollars to fill with pastel draining it and throwing it away every few months isn't the best idea. That is literally throwing away money XD.
> 
> And defiantly do not use Aluminum rads, also try to stay away with rads that use Tin solder if you can.


Hey man thx for the infos. But isn't most / all of Bispower fittings are Brass? And I see a lot of ppl using them for their loops? And they're fine? So how do you get everything 100% copper? Like Radiator u can get it 100% copper and cpu block, but fittings are made from Brass? So Brass and copper are fine in a loop?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nothing wrong with silver in the loop unless you add the wrong biocide to the coolant. For people like me who use only distilled, it makes no difference whether silver is in the loop or not. Which is why I don't have issues using Monsoon fittings. And as mentioned earlier, Pastels don't react well with certain metals.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like this thread has been effectively derailed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


"Seems like this thread has been effectively derailed.







" it certainly has My bad for my part in it, I will stop after this.

"Nothing wrong with silver in the loop" So here is the thing with silver. Silver most defiantly is beyond the acceptable threshold for our purposes (which would be 20 differential) and getting very close to that of Alu depending on if you have brass and the type of brass you have.

Silver will cause galvanic corrosion in a loop period, I know that watercoolers like to try to turn a blind eye to it but luckily we have science and science says it will corrode it and pretty fast.

Why it appears to be okay and can be for a long time, the amount of silver is low in our systems, its contact is not that great in the system. Where as in the case of Alu and our experiences there was large amounts of both Alu and Copper present this greatly increased the rate of corrosion. Flowing water is also a big part of this equation that changes everything, as in martins example. His rads (and everyone else that used that rad) had no issues while in use/testing. However after he let it sit for a few months with water in it the corrosion set in and he was left with a holey rad that was then dry.

In a typical moving loop with a small amount of silver the corrosion will be slow, but it will be corroding and whats worse it wont corrode the silver as it is a noble metal it will corrode the copper. (I was wrong about this before about it being sacrificial. I thought it would Sacrifice but I wasn't sure I checked I was wrong its noble. All this is from memory and its been awhile







)

In the case of is it okay to run in a flowing loop in small amounts, ya its okay. Will it affect the rads longtime and is it causing corrosion, yes most defiantly it will cause fairly quick corrosion.

So it becomes toss up, you have to trade biocide for corrosion its a choice that everyone must make due to there use case and how long they want there components to last. If you only plan on having the rads 2-3 years and then replacing them then use all the silver you want. If you want them to last 10 years then keep silver as far away from your loop as you can.

You can also use Alu in your loop, in small amounts and it will cause a similar issue to silver, its when we start using large amounts of the metals that a problem begins. If you use all silver fittings and have 30 of them in stagnant water well now you have an issue, if you use all silver fittings and have 10 in a constantly flowing loop then it isnt so bad I would still advise against it. If you have a kill coil in a constantly moving loop it is pretty much not relevant in the short term.

I know that EK gets alot of crap for saying do not run silver but I have to stand behind them 110% it is beyond galvanic index threshold for fresh water and should not be used in the loop at all. I dont use it and I run pure distilled I do not recommend that anyone uses it.

Fact is watercooling is a pretty new thing in the grand scheme, running silver in the loop also pretty new. However Galvanic Corrosion is not new and Silver mixed with Brass will cause it, this has been proven in industry's that are much larger and been around much longer. So with all do respect to Gene and everyone else in the cooling community there word over that of scientific fact I'm taking the facts. I am still kinda mad about that barb change as I needed 1 fitting awhile back to match that which I had and got silver I was not happy about that.

In closing if you want to safely use silver then I would suggest, Not using any brass at all, using small amounts of silver (the silver blocks like the AC one ya stay away from that if you have brass.) If you follow those then it should be okay for semi long term and thus for our use all is well. However if corrosion is a concern than silver is a problem, its 30 from brass where Alu is 40 from copper you cannot say 1 is bad and the other isn't it doesn't work that way.

You are also right about not using it with other biocides as I assume you mean copper sulfate. Copper sulfate intensifies the contact with copper however it is just magnifying a problem that is already there. Another thing to avoid would be using Silver fittings directly connected to copper rads as there threads will corrode fairly quickly. Another cacth that people miss is what silver corrosion looks like. People assume that galvanic corrosion is black its not. It is when Alu corrodes with Copper, but when silver corrodes its white. Look at your kill coil or silver fittings you see the chalky white spots on them that is corrosion, copper corrodes bluish green, Nickel also corrodes white.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Hey man thx for the infos. But isn't most / all of Bispower fittings are Brass? And I see a lot of ppl using them for their loops? And they're fine? So how do you get everything 100% copper? Like Radiator u can get it 100% copper and cpu block, but fittings are made from Brass? So Brass and copper are fine in a loop?


Brass and copper are fine, I do remember someone making copper fittings but I cant recall atm I will try to find them and pm you. However BP fittings although brass are powder coated so brass does not actually make contact with the water anyway. However a lot of radiators are also brass, some are a mix Alphacool rads are the only 100% copper rads I know of there may be more though. For fresh water Galvanic Corrosion minimization the suggestion is to not go over 20 in the index. So look at the chart I posted and its numbers (use 45 for brass as you dont know what brass they used) make sure the diffrence is less than 20 for all metals. 10-15 would be preferable though (so if you use Nickel, do not use Brass, there is nickel fittings).

Honestly due to not knowing what brass they are using I would say using Nickel and Copper only is the best bet if corrosion is a concern, this will also allow the safe use of Silver as it does not have an issue with copper its problem is with brass. Also without knowing the brass they use I can tell you I am sure its high brass, what that means is it has a high ratio of Tin, this raises its index. Since our brass fittings are very hard that leads me to believe it being a high brass as a brass high in copper, like Naval brass is softer. I have naval brass Ecigs and they dent very very easily our fittings do not seem that composition.


----------



## coreykh25

Sort of an aside, but I'm curious to see where people source their piping from. I have seen several instances where simple copper tubing from Home Depot does not have the correct dimensions for most builds. I'm planning on copper tubing for a sponsored build, and want to make sure that the tubing is the correct dimensions and high quality. I have found some online retailers that seem most promising, but I wanted to see if anyone had particular luck with any other solutions. Thanks in advance guys.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> "Seems like this thread has been effectively derailed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> " it certainly has My bad for my part in it, I will stop after this.
> 
> "Nothing wrong with silver in the loop" So here is the thing with silver. Silver most defiantly is beyond the acceptable threshold for our purposes (which would be 20 differential) and getting very close to that of Alu depending on if you have brass and the type of brass you have.
> 
> Silver will cause galvanic corrosion in a loop period, I know that watercoolers like to try to turn a blind eye to it but luckily we have science and science says it will corrode it and pretty fast.
> 
> Why it appears to be okay and can be for a long time, the amount of silver is low in our systems, its contact is not that great in the system. Where as in the case of Alu and our experiences there was large amounts of both Alu and Copper present this greatly increased the rate of corrosion. Flowing water is also a big part of this equation that changes everything, as in martins example. His rads (and everyone else that used that rad) had no issues while in use/testing. However after he let it sit for a few months with water in it the corrosion set in and he was left with a holey rad that was then dry.
> 
> In a typical moving loop with a small amount of silver the corrosion will be slow, but it will be corroding and whats worse it wont corrode the silver as it is a noble metal it will corrode the copper. (I was wrong about this before about it being sacrificial. I thought it would Sacrifice but I wasn't sure I checked I was wrong its noble. All this is from memory and its been awhile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> In the case of is it okay to run in a flowing loop in small amounts, ya its okay. Will it affect the rads longtime and is it causing corrosion, yes most defiantly it will cause fairly quick corrosion.
> 
> So it becomes toss up, you have to trade biocide for corrosion its a choice that everyone must make due to there use case and how long they want there components to last. If you only plan on having the rads 2-3 years and then replacing them then use all the silver you want. If you want them to last 10 years then keep silver as far away from your loop as you can.
> 
> You can also use Alu in your loop, in small amounts and it will cause a similar issue to silver, its when we start using large amounts of the metals that a problem begins. If you use all silver fittings and have 30 of them in stagnant water well now you have an issue, if you use all silver fittings and have 10 in a constantly flowing loop then it isnt so bad I would still advise against it. If you have a kill coil in a constantly moving loop it is pretty much not relevant in the short term.
> 
> I know that EK gets alot of crap for saying do not run silver but I have to stand behind them 110% it is beyond galvanic index threshold for fresh water and should not be used in the loop at all. I dont use it and I run pure distilled I do not recommend that anyone uses it.
> 
> Fact is watercooling is a pretty new thing in the grand scheme, running silver in the loop also pretty new. However Galvanic Corrosion is not new and Silver mixed with Brass will cause it, this has been proven in industry's that are much larger and been around much longer. So with all do respect to Gene and everyone else in the cooling community there word over that of scientific fact I'm taking the facts. I am still kinda mad about that barb change as I needed 1 fitting awhile back to match that which I had and got silver I was not happy about that.
> 
> In closing if you want to safely use silver then I would suggest, Not using any brass at all, using small amounts of silver (the silver blocks like the AC one ya stay away from that if you have brass.) If you follow those then it should be okay for semi long term and thus for our use all is well. However if corrosion is a concern than silver is a problem, its 30 from brass where Alu is 40 from copper you cannot say 1 is bad and the other isn't it doesn't work that way.
> 
> You are also right about not using it with other biocides as I assume you mean copper sulfate. Copper sulfate intensifies the contact with copper however it is just magnifying a problem that is already there. Another thing to avoid would be using Silver fittings directly connected to copper rads as there threads will corrode fairly quickly. Another cacth that people miss is what silver corrosion looks like. People assume that galvanic corrosion is black its not. It is when Alu corrodes with Copper, but when silver corrodes its white. Look at your kill coil or silver fittings you see the chalky white spots on them that is corrosion, copper corrodes bluish green, Nickel also corrodes white.
> Brass and copper are fine, I do remember someone making copper fittings but I cant recall atm I will try to find them and pm you. However BP fittings although brass are powder coated so brass does not actually make contact with the water anyway. However a lot of radiators are also brass, some are a mix Alphacool rads are the only 100% copper rads I know of there may be more though. For fresh water Galvanic Corrosion minimization the suggestion is to not go over 20 in the index. So look at the chart I posted and its numbers (use 45 for brass as you dont know what brass they used) make sure the diffrence is less than 20 for all metals. 10-15 would be preferable though (so if you use Nickel, do not use Brass, there is nickel fittings).
> 
> Honestly due to not knowing what brass they are using I would say using Nickel and Copper only is the best bet if corrosion is a concern, this will also allow the safe use of Silver as it does not have an issue with copper its problem is with brass. Also without knowing the brass they use I can tell you I am sure its high brass, what that means is it has a high ratio of Tin, this raises its index. Since our brass fittings are very hard that leads me to believe it being a high brass as a brass high in copper, like Naval brass is softer. I have naval brass Ecigs and they dent very very easily our fittings do not seem that composition.


Does Bitspower make Nickel Plated hardline compression fittings? I only see them selling Brass with Chrome plated?


----------



## emsj86

They sell tjthe silver shining if that's the style your looking for


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> They sell tjthe silver shining if that's the style your looking for


Isn't silver bad for the loop? So I guess they dont have Nickel?


----------



## dubldwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Isn't silver bad for the loop? So I guess they dont have Nickel?


"Silver Shining" I'm pretty sure is brass that's been nickel plated. The "silver" is just what they're calling the color.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dubldwn*
> 
> "Silver Shining" I'm pretty sure is brass that's been nickel plated. The "silver" is just what they're calling the color.


Oh hahaha I see i see. Well it's good that's it's nickel plated Brass
















So I'm thinking about getting a custom loop and here are the parts:
Let me know what you guys think:

EK Supremacy EVO cpu block (Nickel plated + Plexi)
Monsoon Modular Reservoir System (includes D5 pump + pump top + Reservoir)
AquaComputer 360mm AMS (Airplex MOdular System) Copper Radiator

Bitspower Enhance Compression Fittings (Hardline / Rigid tubing) 12mm OD
Bitspower 12mm OD hardline tubing

And either Distilled water or Mayhem Pastel fluid.


----------



## dubldwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Oh hahaha I see i see. Well it's good that's it's nickel plated Brass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm thinking about getting a custom loop and here are the parts:
> Let me know what you guys think:


EK Supremacy EVO cpu block (Nickel plated + Plexi) -- Using this. Works great. Get LEDs.
Monsoon Modular Reservoir System (includes D5 pump + pump top + Reservoir) -- Never used but it _looks_ good. I would check to make sure it's a quiet setup.
AquaComputer 360mm AMS (Airplex MOdular System) Copper Radiator -- If I could do it all over again I would get 2 of these but with aluminum fins. You should do the same with silver fittings if you can see the fins. The tubes inside are copper.

Bitspower Enhance Compression Fittings (Hardline / Rigid tubing) 12mm OD -- Using now. Excellent.
Bitspower 12mm OD hardline tubing -- Using now. Excellent.

And either Distilled water or Mayhem Pastel fluid -- Using Mayhems clear now. I think pastel can stain stuff if you care.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dubldwn*
> 
> EK Supremacy EVO cpu block (Nickel plated + Plexi) -- Using this. Works great. Get LEDs.
> Monsoon Modular Reservoir System (includes D5 pump + pump top + Reservoir) -- Never used but it _looks_ good. I would check to make sure it's a quiet setup.
> AquaComputer 360mm AMS (Airplex MOdular System) Copper Radiator -- If I could do it all over again I would get 2 of these but with aluminum fins. You should do the same with silver fittings if you can see the fins. The tubes inside are copper.
> 
> Bitspower Enhance Compression Fittings (Hardline / Rigid tubing) 12mm OD -- Using now. Excellent.
> Bitspower 12mm OD hardline tubing -- Using now. Excellent.
> 
> And either Distilled water or Mayhem Pastel fluid -- Using Mayhems clear now. I think pastel can stain stuff if you care.


So why would you go with the Aquacomputer aluminum fins Rad? isn't copper is better?

Also, is the Silver Shining from Bitspower are Nickel plated? What about their other color such as Deluxe White and Blood Red?


----------



## dubldwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So why would you go with the Aquacomputer aluminum fins Rad? isn't copper is better?
> 
> Also, is the Silver Shining from Bitspower are Nickel plated? What about their other color such as Deluxe White and Blood Red?


Sure. It's better. It's also heavier, more expensive, and tarnishes. I think the aluminum fins look great and a random copper part would stand out in a bad way. If you're looking for strictly the best performance my RX360v3s are exceptional. But the fins are ugly. Aquacomputer probably asks too much for the performance but that's a sweet looking rad.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dubldwn*
> 
> Sure. It's better. It's also heavier, more expensive, and tarnishes. I think the aluminum fins look great and a random copper part would stand out in a bad way. If you're looking for strictly the best performance my RX360v3s are exceptional. But the fins are ugly. Aquacomputer probably asks too much for the performance but that's a sweet looking rad.


But isn't using aluminum in the loop and mix with other stuff like copper + nickel is bad for the coolant? Like corrosion?


----------



## dubldwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> But isn't using aluminum in the loop and mix with other stuff like copper + nickel is bad for the coolant? Like corrosion?


No the fins are aluminum. When the water goes into the rad it goes through a bunch of tubes and those are copper. Now, copper fins technically do cool better, but again, if you can see them I would save that for a copper build. Like black and copper. That would look cool. Or white and copper. But not with nickel plated fittings and a nickel block. IMHO.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> But isn't using aluminum in the loop and mix with other stuff like copper + nickel is bad for the coolant? Like corrosion?


The Alu is for the fins as he said. However those rads do look good and they do, they are horrible performing rads, You are trading looks for rads that are not very good.

Best bet is to get an EK XE, not only is it the best rad on the market period, it also has a removable sheathing so you can paint the outside whatever color you want. If you want to get real crazy you could even send the cover out to be nickel plated. I actually might have to do that myself that is a good idea.

The fins are powder coated so they will be black not copper. You could spray the fins another color if you are very careful and do a very light coat it would affect cooling however even with painted fins the EK XE is still better than most rads on the market.

All that said make a thread about advice for your loop as you are seriously derailing this thread. A little was one thing but this is getting out of hand.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> But isn't using aluminum in the loop and mix with other stuff like copper + nickel is bad for the coolant? Like corrosion?
> 
> 
> 
> The Alu is for the fins as he said. However those rads do look good and they do, they are horrible performing rads, You are trading looks for rads that are not very good.
> 
> Best bet is to get an EK XE, not only is it the best rad on the market period, it also has a removable sheathing so you can paint the outside whatever color you want. If you want to get real crazy you could even send the cover out to be nickel plated. I actually might have to do that myself that is a good idea.
> 
> The fins are powder coated so they will be black not copper. You could spray the fins another color if you are very careful and do a very light coat it would affect cooling however even with painted fins the EK XE is still better than most rads on the market.
> 
> All that said make a thread about advice for your loop as you are seriously derailing this thread. A little was one thing but this is getting out of hand.
Click to expand...

Agreed on all points, with some input on Quality Rads...









HWLabs make good Radiators that are on par(with) and cheaper than EK. Only reason I am going with EK is for looks and for continuity. I could go with HWLabs if this wasn't a custom mod, but I intend to show my system so I won't mix two EK Rads with my current Rad of choice and they're square bodied which fits my mod better than the Stealth look of HWLabs Rads.









~Ceadder


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Agreed on all points, with some input on Quality Rads...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HWLabs make good Radiators that are on par(with) and cheaper than EK. Only reason I am going with EK is for looks and for continuity. I could go with HWLabs if this wasn't a custom mod, but I intend to show my system so I won't mix two EK Rads with my current Rad of choice and they're square bodied which fits my mod better than the Stealth look of HWLabs Rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You guys dont like AquaComputer RAds? I thought they look way better than EK RAds? I know EK has better performance, but it's not that much.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Agreed on all points, with some input on Quality Rads...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HWLabs make good Radiators that are on par(with) and cheaper than EK. Only reason I am going with EK is for looks and for continuity. I could go with HWLabs if this wasn't a custom mod, but I intend to show my system so I won't mix two EK Rads with my current Rad of choice and they're square bodied which fits my mod better than the Stealth look of HWLabs Rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You guys dont like AquaComputer RAds? I thought they look way better than EK RAds? I know EK has better performance, but it's not that much.
Click to expand...

AC Rads may look better (to some) but I'd rather have a better performing Radiator. And EK Radiators look nice and can be painted. They don't recommend separating the housing from the functional unit but so long as you do it carefully and put it back together properly, EK Radiators tend to look nicer than any unit on the market imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## darktheuser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreykh25*
> 
> Sort of an aside, but I'm curious to see where people source their piping from. I have seen several instances where simple copper tubing from Home Depot does not have the correct dimensions for most builds. I'm planning on copper tubing for a sponsored build, and want to make sure that the tubing is the correct dimensions and high quality. I have found some online retailers that seem most promising, but I wanted to see if anyone had particular luck with any other solutions. Thanks in advance guys.


http://m.ebay.com/itm/291669064203


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darktheuser*
> 
> http://m.ebay.com/itm/291669064203


I hope no one buys that.. What a rip off.

Coppertubingsales is a WAY better deal, 6 meters for 78$usd


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> AC Rads may look better (to some) but I'd rather have a better performing Radiator. And EK Radiators look nice and can be painted. They don't recommend separating the housing from the functional unit but so long as you do it carefully and put it back together properly, EK Radiators tend to look nicer than any unit on the market imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hey man sorry to ask this but should I get a D5 Pump Vario (one with the speed dial control) or the D5 Pump PWM? and what is the difference ?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Hey man sorry to ask this but should I get a D5 Pump Vario (one with the speed dial control) or the D5 Pump PWM? and what is the difference ?


The difference is in how they are controlled. The Vario uses the manual red speed dial while the PWM plugs into a PWM header and can be remotely controlled by compatible devices.

They both have pros and cons. The vario you can control with nothing else needed but if the pump may be located somewhere that makes the dial hard or impossible to reach. The PWM can be mounted anywhere and still controlled but you need a control device powered up to do it. That can make filling and bleeding more difficult.

Its a minor difference because other than convenience a pump works just as well set to a good speed and left alone as it does varying with temps like a CPU fan. Other than that they are the same pump.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The difference is in how they are controlled. The Vario uses the manual red speed dial while the PWM plugs into a PWM header and can be remotely controlled by compatible devices.
> 
> They both have pros and cons. The vario you can control with nothing else needed but if the pump may be located somewhere that makes the dial hard or impossible to reach. The PWM can be mounted anywhere and still controlled but you need a control device powered up to do it. That can make filling and bleeding more difficult.
> 
> Its a minor difference because other than convenience a pump works just as well set to a good speed and left alone as it does varying with temps like a CPU fan. Other than that they are the same pump.


And can I run the D5 pump at max speed all the time? Or is that too much overkill ?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> And can I run the D5 pump at max speed all the time? Or is that too much overkill ?


You certainly can. I can't prove it but I think because of the way the impeller is lubricated that it may actually be better to run all the time rather than lots of stopping and starting. Of course they do last plenty long stopping and starting with the PC as normal


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> And can I run the D5 pump at max speed all the time? Or is that too much overkill ?


I have two D5's and they run at full speed all the time. One is a year old and one is 4 years old. Zero issues and quiet as can be.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> I have two D5's and they run at full speed all the time. One is a year old and one is 4 years old. Zero issues and quiet as can be.


Nice man, are they both PWM or the ones with the physical speed dial? And are they both from Swiftech? I mean what brand did you buy them? I know they're all pretty much the same D5, but I'm just wondering which brand did you go with like Swiftech D5, Alphacool, or EK, etc.... thx.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Nice man, are they both PWM or the ones with the physical speed dial? And are they both from Swiftech? I mean what brand did you buy them? I know they're all pretty much the same D5, but I'm just wondering which brand did you go with like Swiftech D5, Alphacool, or EK, etc.... thx.


Both have the actual dial on the back. And both are Swiftech. So they are really mcp-655's.


----------



## japemo

Hi overclockers!!!

I'm trying to found 12 OD nickel tube to do my worklog in Spain or Europe. Do you know places to buy?

Thanks and regards!!!


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japemo*
> 
> Hi overclockers!!!
> 
> I'm trying to found 12 OD nickel tube to do my worklog in Spain or Europe. Do you know places to buy?
> 
> Thanks and regards!!!


Check Mcmaster website


----------



## japemo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *japemo*
> 
> Hi overclockers!!!
> 
> I'm trying to found 12 OD nickel tube to do my worklog in Spain or Europe. Do you know places to buy?
> 
> Thanks and regards!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Check Mcmaster website
Click to expand...

Thanls but yesterday I sended an email and answer me that send order to spain have many cost... I continue looking for it in EU or Spain...

Regards

Enviado desde mi HTC One mediante Tapatalk


----------



## BURGER4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japemo*
> 
> Hi overclockers!!!
> 
> I'm trying to found 12 OD nickel tube to do my worklog in Spain or Europe. Do you know places to buy?
> 
> Thanks and regards!!!


no habla espanol, but i found this: http://garciaruiz.es/webcms/index.php?menu=tiendavirtual&submenu=ficha_producto&id_producto=888
It's 12mm OD 10mm ID


----------



## japemo

OMG!!!!!

Thanks. I bought 3 m to my project....


----------



## hyp36rmax

Now im in the right place!


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> Now im in the right place!


Glad to be of assistance









Hey almost forgot you show us that copper glorious rig when your done







We need moarrr copper round here.


----------



## shtqbe

Made this to Project mATX case. Just thinking, that I´m not able to do soft/ acrylic tubing anymore. because chromed copper looks so much better than anything else.And this thread was just so helpful for making this happen


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shtqbe*
> 
> Made this to Project mATX case. Just thinking, that I´m not able to do soft/ acrylic tubing anymore. because chromed copper looks so much better than anything else.And this thread was just so helpful for making this happen


Damn nice man. How did you be able to bend those Chrome plated copper tubing? Where did u buy the Chrome plated copper tubing from? Thx al ot of ppl said it's really hard to bend these.

Also, can u post more pics?


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Glad to be of assistance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey almost forgot you show us that copper glorious rig when your done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need moarrr copper round here.


LOL! For sure! Just got my D5 pump and rads. Just waiting on the CPU block and to order the S5


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shtqbe*
> 
> Made this to Project mATX case. Just thinking, that I´m not able to do soft/ acrylic tubing anymore. because chromed copper looks so much better than anything else.And this thread was just so helpful for making this happen


I was thinking about using acrylic in my mATX build too but i just couldn't live without copper after using it haha. Damn cool build thou!


----------



## jincuteguy

Anyone experienced with these new Alphacool HardTube 13/10mm Borosilicate Glass tubing yet? And how do you cut these glass tube? Can you use the Copper tube cutter?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Anyone experienced with these new Alphacool HardTube 13/10mm Borosilicate Glass tubing yet? And how do you cut these glass tube? Can you use the Copper tube cutter?


Might want to check out these links if you have not already done so....











http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/10/20/mayhems-borosilicate-glass-tube-review/


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Might want to check out these links if you have not already done so....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/10/20/mayhems-borosilicate-glass-tube-review/


Yea I watched that Mayhem video. I dont' get how he didn't make the Glass cracked when he used that thing to score it and then break it by hands? I see Acrylic tubing got cracked very easy when cutting , isn't Glass is more brittle than Acrylic?

So after watching that video, can't I use the Copper tubing cutting tool to score the glass?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea I watched that Mayhem video. I dont' get how he didn't make the Glass cracked when he used that thing to score it and then break it by hands? I see Acrylic tubing got cracked very easy when cutting , isn't Glass is more brittle than Acrylic?
> 
> So after watching that video, can't I use the Copper tubing cutting tool to score the glass?


Nah - don't use the copper tubing cutter as the blades are not strong enough. I think the glass tubing cutters have diamond or tungsten carbide tipped blade wheels so they can actually score the glass.

When you score a line on glass - it creates a weak point and the idea is that it will fracture along this score line and no where else.... It is a common technique used by glaziers etc

However in practice it seems as if it is more difficult than the video alludes to. If you look at the xtremerigs review on the glass tubing - they had trouble obtaining clean cuts using the scoring method.


----------



## Iceman2733

Has anyone found a good supplier or place to buy chrome plate tubing or SS I have bought all the Petg but I have really wanted to run the plated stuff for awhile and this has to be easier than heating it all up and dealing with that stuff.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Has anyone found a good supplier or place to buy chrome plate tubing or SS I have bought all the Petg but I have really wanted to run the plated stuff for awhile and this has to be easier than heating it all up and dealing with that stuff.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Alphacool chrome plated copper tubing - PerformancePcs


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Has anyone found a good supplier or place to buy chrome plate tubing or SS I have bought all the Petg but I have really wanted to run the plated stuff for awhile and this has to be easier than heating it all up and dealing with that stuff.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool chrome plated copper tubing - PerformancePcs
Click to expand...

Thanks I thought that was the stuff people were having issues bending.... Is the bitspower brass link any good? I have already bought all 12mm od fittings so it would be cheaper if I could use the bitspower..... How is it bending and stuff?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kgtuning

If I were to buy copper or stainless I'd buy from here onlinemetals dot com.


----------



## ThermalM16

So I found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/371529949575

Does anybody know if this would work for water cooling and how well it bends?


----------



## japemo

My first bends....





And fails... XD



I continue with my project... It's hard and one point more dificult, but It's a great experience...

Regards!!!


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japemo*
> 
> My first bends....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And fails... XD
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with my project... It's hard and one point more dificult, but It's a great experience...
> 
> Regards!!!


Where did you your tubing from? And are they chrome plated copper? or just stainless steel?


----------



## japemo

Is chrome plated copper...

http://garciaruiz.es/webcms/index.php?menu=tiendavirtual&submenu=ficha_producto&id_producto=888


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japemo*
> 
> Is chrome plated copper...
> 
> http://garciaruiz.es/webcms/index.php?menu=tiendavirtual&submenu=ficha_producto&id_producto=888


Some guy tried to bend chrome plated copper tubing and failed miserably? And I had no idea what he did wrong






As soon as he tried to bend the tubing, it broke in half


----------



## japemo

OMG!!!

Maybe use very rigid copper tube.

I'm using annealed copper tube. Is more flexible than rigid...


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *japemo*
> 
> OMG!!!
> 
> Maybe use very rigid copper tube.
> 
> I'm using annealed copper tube. Is more flexible than rigid...


Well the tubing that he got are from Bitspower, and are supposed to be used for watercooling, and I had no idea why that happened ?


----------



## japemo

http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/chrome_pipe.htm


----------



## hyp36rmax

Is the copper tube supposed to feel a little loose with the rigid fitting? Using 1/2 inch OD copper tube with Primochill Revolver SX fittings. It doesn't feel like a solid connection like a soft tube using compression fittings. I can still pull the tube off the fitting. Is it supposed to compress over the tube?


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> Is the copper tube supposed to feel a little loose with the rigid fitting? Using 1/2 inch OD copper tube with Primochill Revolver SX fittings. It doesn't feel like a solid connection like a soft tube using compression fittings. I can still pull the tube off the fitting. Is it supposed to compress over the tube?


It is normal for the pipe to pop out from fittings with little force, but it is strong enough to be water tight, Since its a compression fitting for hard tube, it plugs into the first part of the fitting then the o-ring on the tube gets compressed by the compression collar. As long as you can compress the o-ring perfectly you won't run in to any issues.

(srry for the broken english)


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> It is normal for the pipe to pop out from fittings with little force, but it is strong enough to be water tight, Since its a compression fitting for hard tube, it plugs into the first part of the fitting then the o-ring on the tube gets compressed by the compression collar. As long as you can compress the o-ring perfectly you won't run in to any issues.
> 
> (srry for the broken english)


Thanks for the insight. I thought this was the case, I just wasn't sure. It would have sucked to fill the loop and find out i messed up big time lol.


----------



## charliebrown

where can i get my copper nickel plated


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Well the tubing that he got are from Bitspower, and are supposed to be used for watercooling, and I had no idea why that happened ?


Because brass and not copper.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Hey guys, I'm looking to re polish my copper piping for when I rebuild my PC this weekend. Is there a method for sealing/ polishing copper that you would recommend so that I can handle my pipes with out tarnishing them and so that they have a lustrous sheen.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicOtis13*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm looking to re polish my copper piping for when I rebuild my PC this weekend. Is there a method for sealing/ polishing copper that you would recommend so that I can handle my pipes with out tarnishing them and so that they have a lustrous sheen.


Wear gloves or clear coat ..you can also use wax to seal them.


----------



## EpicOtis13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Wear gloves or clear coat ..you can also use wax to seal them.


What sort of wax should I buy? I usually go to my local ace hardware for things like that, so if they have it in stock that would be nice.


----------



## fa5terba11

what does 10mm and 12mm correspond to in inches? McMaster only reports their dimension in inches.


----------



## mtrapuzz

25.4 mm in an inch.

10 mm ~ 0.3937 in
12 mm ~ 0.47244 in

The inside diameter (10 mm) doesn't matter much, but the outside diameter you need to get close to 12 mm. I don't know if 1/2" tubing would be OK but I doubt it.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fa5terba11*
> 
> what does 10mm and 12mm correspond to in inches? McMaster only reports their dimension in inches.


There is no direct conversion for pipe size between metric and imperial, they don't make exact same pipe sizes for both units. Closest one would be 3/8 1/2 and will work with most of compression fittings with o-ring compression colar as its tolerance is quite wide. Just dont try to use them with push-in fittings like rocket science or koolance ferrule fittings.


----------



## fa5terba11

Ok so what tubing do I use for the aquatuning push fittings 10 mm od that I can purchase in the U.S.? I'm digging the copper chrome look.


----------



## suprbeau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThermalM16*
> 
> So I found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/371529949575
> 
> Does anybody know if this would work for water cooling and how well it bends?


I am also very interested. I've seen a few hand benders for stainless steel but I'm wondering if anyone else had tried to hand bend titanium tubes...


----------



## skingun

What are the best benders for 12mm pipe? I'm looking for something that will bend with the tightest radius while not deforming the pipe. I am struggling. Hope an experienced member can help me out?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suprbeau*
> 
> I am also very interested. I've seen a few hand benders for stainless steel but I'm wondering if anyone else had tried to hand bend titanium tubes...


It has less material strength than steel,just much lighter.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> What are the best benders for 12mm pipe? I'm looking for something that will bend with the tightest radius while not deforming the pipe. I am struggling. Hope an experienced member can help me out?


Rigid or Rothenberger


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Rigid or Rothenberger


Like these... http://www.ridgidtoolsdirect.com/product.php/377/ridgid_400_series_instrument_bender_model_412m_12mm/d8485605940ff71ead33442ccbb942e1


----------



## Kenjiwing

Hey all... will this work/worth trying out?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-36-in-L-Chrome-Plated-Brass-Cover-Tube-for-1-2-in-Nom-Copper-Tube-8491-C/205214955


----------



## oc_geek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Like these... http://www.ridgidtoolsdirect.com/product.php/377/ridgid_400_series_instrument_bender_model_412m_12mm/d8485605940ff71ead33442ccbb942e1


That is the same one i had used and works very well.
Looked around for tighter bends as well as you and landed on this one. Combined with good semi-rogid copper pipe works a charm after some practice for mm accuracy


----------



## GHADthc

Quick question, does anyone know if 1/2" (12.7mm OD) copper tubing will fit in EK HDC fittings? I know that EK states to use 12mm tubing, but I am having some difficulty finding exactly 12mm in OD tubing, and wonder if there is enough wiggle room in the EK HDC fittings to work with 12.7mm tubing.


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GHADthc*
> 
> Quick question, does anyone know if 1/2" (12.7mm OD) copper tubing will fit in EK HDC fittings? I know that EK states to use 12mm tubing, but I am having some difficulty finding exactly 12mm in OD tubing, and wonder if there is enough wiggle room in the EK HDC fittings to work with 12.7mm tubing.


Have you tried searching ebay?


----------



## atomicus

Not sure if this has been asked and answered already in the thread (200+ pages is a lot to work through lol), but I've had a look at quite a few tutorial videos and I haven't found an answer...

I am wondering how to make precision bends in EXACTLY the right place they need to be. I have got the hang of bending my 16mm PETG with the rubber insert just fine, no bubbles or kinks, looks good... but I am trying to figure out how to make a second bend in a tube in a very precise spot. I am coming vertically down from the GPU block fitting, turning 90 degrees towards the back of the case (I've made this bend already) and then a taking a 90 degree angle to the left, connecting to the rad port on the far left... so it needs to be spot on. How do I ensure I bend my tube in the correct place, because if I'm even a few mm out it won't meet the fitting?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Not sure if this has been asked and answered already in the thread (200+ pages is a lot to work through lol), but I've had a look at quite a few tutorial videos and I haven't found an answer...
> 
> I am wondering how to make precision bends in EXACTLY the right place they need to be. I have got the hang of bending my 16mm PETG with the rubber insert just fine, no bubbles or kinks, looks good... but I am trying to figure out how to make a second bend in a tube in a very precise spot. I am coming vertically down from the GPU block fitting, turning 90 degrees towards the back of the case (I've made this bend already) and then a taking a 90 degree angle to the left, connecting to the rad port on the far left... so it needs to be spot on. How do I ensure I bend my tube in the correct place, because if I'm even a few mm out it won't meet the fitting?


I would get a tubing straightener to minimize the issue. Also you could use old barb fittings to mock up your run with wire hanger held in the center of them. At least you'll have a rough idea of what it's supposed to look like. Folding rules can sometimes give you an understanding of where your bend should be as well. There are different solutions for different problems. Just have to use some imagination to figure them out.









~Ceadder


----------



## atomicus

What's really kicking me in the backside is a bend right after another bend going in a different direction. I am not sure if I'm heating my PETG up sufficiently, although it certainly seems 'noodle like' enough, but I've seen some builds with multiple bends on the same tube that I just don't know how have been achieved, as it almost seems the tube will only bend so much before it deforms.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> What's really kicking me in the backside is a bend right after another bend going in a different direction. I am not sure if I'm heating my PETG up sufficiently, although it certainly seems 'noodle like' enough, but I've seen some builds with multiple bends on the same tube that I just don't know how have been achieved, as it almost seems the tube will only bend so much before it deforms.


One section at a time and take your time. Just remember that if it's really close together to take the hardest bend first and then the easiest. So if you have to start in the middle, that's okay. It's not a felony to start in the middle and work your way out toward the fitting end. You can waste tubing that way but if you have your measurements correctly figured out, you won't wast much.









Oh and so you're aware, this is the pipe bending thread. Quite literally meaning metal pipe. Which is why I posted about tubing straightener. You want the Acrylic Pipe Bending thread for these kind of questions. But I understand what you're asking now. Hopefully this helps and at the same time gets you on the correct thread...

Acrylic pipebending 101 <--- Here ya go.









~Ceadder


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oh and so you're aware, this is the pipe bending thread. Quite literally meaning metal pipe. Which is why I posted about tubing straightener. You want the Acrylic Pipe Bending thread for these kind of questions. But I understand what you're asking now. Hopefully this helps and at the same time gets you on the correct thread...
> 
> Acrylic pipebending 101 <--- Here ya go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Oops sorry about that, my bad. Thanks for the advice though.


----------



## Kenjiwing

All,

When plating my piping chrome/nickel does it matter if the insides are also plated? If it does matter what do you all recommend to plug the pipe with before I give it to the plating company?


----------



## Ceadderman

I wouldn't plate the interior of straight pipe. Run the risk of it crinkling when bending, should the plating be inferior.









~Ceadder


----------



## Nameless101

Hello everyone,

I'm in the process of planning my watercooling setup and I will be using copper pipes. Now, I know that it's generally a good idea to decouple the pump, so my question is the following. How likely is it that vibrations are carried forward from the pump via copper pipes, provided the pump is otherwise properly decoupled? Any input from someone with experience would be much appreciated. Cheers!


----------



## D749

Thinking of going copper for my new build, but I don't have any of the necessary tools.

Put together a shopping list... anything look incorrect/missing for a 10/12mm copper tubing build?

1. BP Enhanced Multi-Link 12MM fittings.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/shopby/brand--bitspower/fitting-finish--matte-black/fitting-size--10mm-12mm/?limit=90

2. RIGID 600 Series Instrument Tubing Bender (38063)
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/600-series-heavy-duty-instrument-benders

3. RIGID 223S/227S Inner-Outer Reamer
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/223s-227s-inner-outer-reamer

4. RIGID 101 Close Quarters Tubing Cutters
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/close-quarters-tubing-cutters

5. KwixUK Kix tool for straightening coiled copper
http://www.kwixuk.com/product.html

5. 10/12MM coiled copper tubing
https://www.mcmaster.com/#9935K26

Price isn't a major concern, I just want good hardware that will make the job as easy as possible.









Thanks.


----------



## Nameless101

As far as I know the Ridgid 600 series is meant more for stainless steel bending, so they are unnecessarily heavy duty for annealed copper. The 300 or 400 series will be good enough for annealed or half-hard copper. Have been using the 400 series myself on both hard and half-harf (R290 and R250). I have been using the same cutter and reamer you are intending to buy, both very solid and get the job done. The other items I can't comment on.


----------



## kgtuning

The 600 series is pretty nice. I personally use a 400 series on copper and stainless. If I had the money I would have bought the 600 series just because.


----------



## Nameless101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> The 600 series is pretty nice. I personally use a 400 series on copper and stainless. If I had the money I would have bought the 600 series just because.


That's true enough! It's around twice the price though if memory serves.


----------



## D749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> As far as I know the Ridgid 600 series is meant more for stainless steel bending, so they are unnecessarily heavy duty for annealed copper. The 300 or 400 series will be good enough for annealed or half-hard copper. Have been using the 400 series myself on both hard and half-harf (R290 and R250). I have been using the same cutter and reamer you are intending to buy, both very solid and get the job done. The other items I can't comment on.


Thanks for the input.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> The 600 series is pretty nice. I personally use a 400 series on copper and stainless. If I had the money I would have bought the 600 series just because.


What are the technical/usability difffernces between the two? I couldn't really tell, but am curious. I've never bent metal tubing before. Thanks.


----------



## Nameless101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D749*
> 
> Thanks for the input.
> What are the technical/usability difffernces between the two? I couldn't really tell, but am curious. I've never bent metal tubing before. Thanks.


The higher the series number the harder the tube that it's supposed to be able to bend. There's a nice little video on youtube about using the 600 series:




That fancy thing you can do with the handle would sure come in handy when you need to do those 180 degree bends! I believe you're also supposed to be able to use it for bending titanium tubing in case that's on the agenda.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D749*
> 
> Thanks for the input.
> What are the technical/usability difffernces between the two? I couldn't really tell, but am curious. I've never bent metal tubing before. Thanks.


okay ill do my best to explain..

The 400 series has a solid "former" that pushes the tube into the shoe. The shoe is the rounded part that creates the bend. It also has a fixed former handle.
The 600 series has two wheels that are the former and has an adjustable handle so you can apply more torque at the 90 degree point of the bend.

hopefully that makes sense.

lol Nameless beat me to it.

edit.. Here's my benders for work.


----------



## D749

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> The higher the series number the harder the tube that it's supposed to be able to bend. There's a nice little video on youtube about using the 600 series:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That fancy thing you can do with the handle would sure come in handy when you need to do those 180 degree bends! I believe you're also supposed to be able to use it for bending titanium tubing in case that's on the agenda.


Nice - thanks. Will pick that one up then.


----------



## Nikolaosf23

Hello from Greece and Happy new year
























I am almost done.... i need 4 screws to hold the cpu block and one tap and some fitting to be compressed.....

Very good work you have done here


----------



## skingun

That coil is amazing!


----------



## Alxz

always had this problem when bending my tubes, my tube radius are always messed up. Is this caused by the bender? It is possible to us a mandrel to avoid it?

(Type L copper, chromed afterwards)



ignore the speecy, this was the best photo i had lol


----------



## joeybuddy96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> always had this problem when bending my tubes, my tube radius are always messed up. Is this caused by the bender? It is possible to us a mandrel to avoid it?
> 
> (Type L copper, chromed afterwards)
> 
> 
> 
> ignore the speecy, this was the best photo i had lol


http://forums.parallax.com/discussion/141671/bending-a-tube-without-the-walls-collapsing-or-pinching
Sounds like the best method would be to torch the area that needs bending, fill it with an internal pipe bending spring and soapy water, freeze it, put an external pipe bending spring on it, and use a pipe bending tool large enough to hold the pipe with the external spring on it. Using your knee just sounds like a good way to get a bruise and an uneven, inaccurate bend.


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## joeybuddy96

There's a Metal Supermarkets store near where I live. They have copper tube. https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/metals/copper/copper-c101-round-tube/ I've read a few of the pages in this thread on US standard measurement sizes for copper, and haven't found something that matches exactly what I'm looking for. On EKWB's store, they have HDC fittings for the largest G1/4 size, 16mm OD (5/8" or .625"), 12mm ID (7/16" or .4375"), commonly referred to as 12mm in this thread at least, I think. Their next largest HDC size is 12mm OD (7/16" or .4375"), 10mm ID (0.393701" or 3/8"), referred to as 10mm tube. I'm trying to figure out if Metal Supermarkets has any copper pipes that might fit any HDC fittings from EKWB or another store. They have 0.5″ OD 0.43″ ID, but that doesn't match up with the .625 OD, .4375 ID of the EKWB fittings. There are two different OD sizes that have a 10mm ID and one with 12mm ID. Soft tubing has a larger size that those three, which would be 13mm following the same naming convention. It's 13mm OD (1/2" or .5"), 19mm ID (3/4" or .75"). 12mm OD isn't listed as a common size in EKWB's guide. All I'm trying to figure out is if there's a cheap, common copper tube size that matches with cheap, reliable HDC fittings without any incompatibility or leaks.


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## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeybuddy96*
> 
> There's a Metal Supermarkets store near where I live. They have copper tube. https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/metals/copper/copper-c101-round-tube/ I've read a few of the pages in this thread on US standard measurement sizes for copper, and haven't found something that matches exactly what I'm looking for. On EKWB's store, they have HDC fittings for the largest G1/4 size, 16mm OD (5/8" or .625"), 12mm ID (7/16" or .4375"), commonly referred to as 12mm in this thread at least, I think. Their next largest HDC size is 12mm OD (7/16" or .4375"), 10mm ID (0.393701" or 3/8"), referred to as 10mm tube. I'm trying to figure out if Metal Supermarkets has any copper pipes that might fit any HDC fittings from EKWB or another store. They have 0.5″ OD 0.43″ ID, but that doesn't match up with the .625 OD, .4375 ID of the EKWB fittings. There are two different OD sizes that have a 10mm ID and one with 12mm ID. Soft tubing has a larger size that those three, which would be 13mm following the same naming convention. It's 13mm OD (1/2" or .5"), 19mm ID (3/4" or .75"). 12mm OD isn't listed as a common size in EKWB's guide. All I'm trying to figure out is if there's a cheap, common copper tube size that matches with cheap, reliable HDC fittings without any incompatibility or leaks.


If you are in the US I don't believe there is a cheap solution. If I were to do copper again I'd buy Rocket Science fittings in 1/2" so I could buy "3/8" copper tubing from any plumbing supply place easily.


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## joeybuddy96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> If you are in the US I don't believe there is a cheap solution. If I were to do copper again I'd buy Rocket Science fittings in 1/2" so I could buy "3/8" copper tubing from any plumbing supply place easily.


Could you verify for me the exact ID and OD that would work with Rocket Science's fittings? I've seen 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD, but that's not the exact 7/16" OD spec.


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## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeybuddy96*
> 
> Could you verify for me the exact ID and OD that would work with Rocket Science's fittings? I've seen 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD, but that's not the exact 7/16" OD spec.


These fittings are 12.7mm "1/2""
http://www.rocketscience.systems/product/blackplating/

And then you need 3/8 copper tubing from a plumbing store which is 1/2" od.... id does not matter. I used 3/8 ACR soft copper tubing with koolance CU13s fittings but with a 1/2" ferrule.


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## joeybuddy96

I've made an incomplete list of the cheapest compression fittings on Amazon. It's not always specified whether they're intended for hard tubes, HDC. The cheapest ones are $3.50 each, but there's no way I can tell if they'll work with copper.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eEBb1DqtW9QoKKG4zgqmMLDkH4nQiV5-Za7DBM2Kaxk


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## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeybuddy96*
> 
> I've made an incomplete list of the cheapest compression fittings on Amazon. It's not always specified whether they're intended for hard tubes, HDC. The cheapest ones are $3.50 each, but there's no way I can tell if they'll work with copper.
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eEBb1DqtW9QoKKG4zgqmMLDkH4nQiV5-Za7DBM2Kaxk


If it's meant for hard tube then you can use it for copper.


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## joeybuddy96

Most of them don't even specify that.


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## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeybuddy96*
> 
> Most of them don't even specify that.


Are you dead set on hard tube compression fittings?


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## joeybuddy96

Unless there's something better. Maybe partly-deadset. ? I'm just trying to see if there's anything cheaper that gets the same job done as Rocket Science fittings. I haven't found any that fit that requirement yet. Rocket Science is my default pick for now. I didn't realize there was a difference between PETG/hardline fittings and metal tube fittings.

If I'm going with an interior pipe-bending spring for a 3/8" ID tube, what size spring should I start searching for?


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## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeybuddy96*
> 
> Unless there's something better. Maybe partly-deadset. ? I'm just trying to see if there's anything cheaper that gets the same job done as Rocket Science fittings. I haven't found any that fit that requirement yet. Rocket Science is my default pick for now. I didn't realize there was a difference between PETG/hardline fittings and metal tube fittings.
> 
> If I'm going with an interior pipe-bending spring for a 3/8" ID tube, what size spring should I start searching for?


There are also Barrows hard tube fittings... just a thought. I'm not sure about internal springs, I used a Rigid tube bender.


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## joeybuddy96

How'd you avoid squishing bends into oval shapes?


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## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeybuddy96*
> 
> How'd you avoid squishing bends into oval shapes?


With a tube bender the tool supports the walls of the tube from the outside. If you hold the walls from going outward the tube won't flatten because there is no where for the tube to go except inside the former/mandrill of the tool.


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## emsj86

Is there any copper that is plated with chrome that I can buy that can also be bent. Or do I just need to bend my copper than plate it


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## Ceadderman

If you look through the last year worth of posts, someone found a plated that could be bent. But I feel that it's better to bend tubes and then plate them. It's a bit costlier but if you find a good Plater it can make all the difference over the plated stuff after it's bent.









~Ceadder


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